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LIBRARY
OF THE
MASSACHUSETTS
AGRICULTURAL
COLLEGE
NO.,^_.^_(s3._1___DATE..f^-lSH0.
s ou R c E _ X"bL I i€i§_e- . „ X Li-TQ-OS
^/.5-
This book may be kept out
TWO WEEKS
only, and is subject to a fine of TWO
CENTS a day thereafter. It will be due
on the day indicated below.
IZBl - 6 !VUI
-A
4-i8eL so c^^
AN
ILLUSTRATED PERIODICAL
DEVOTED TO
Horticulture in all its Branches.
CONDUCTED BY
Elias A. Long, Author of " Ornamentat Gardening for Americans. "
" Tlie Home Florist, " Etc., Etc.,
To him whjo iq tl^e love of qature holds
Comrriunion witt\ her visible forrqs, shje speaks
A various language; for p)is gayer hours
She has a voice of gladqess, arid a smile
And eloquence of beauty; and sl^e glides
lr|to his darker musiqgs, witl^ a mild
Arid fiealing synipat^iy, that steal away
Their sharpness, ere l^e is aware.
— Bryant.
Voltinae 5, 1889 = 90.
BUFFALO, N. Y.
Popular Gardening Publishing Co.
^ INDEX ^
TO
VOL. V OF POPULAR GARDENING.
Abrus precatorious . . 192
Abutilon, White Vim-
Leaved 35
Abutilon in Tree
Form 193
Aljutilons 156-163
Actinidia polygama. . .12
Adaptation of Fruits. 112
Adonis. The Spring. .Hi
Agent System, The. . . 249
Alfalfa 141
Aloe, Growing 93
Altha-a Shrub .94
AmariUis Belladonna,
94, 125
Amaryllises a7id their
Culture 214
American Florists' Con-
vention 40
American Hort. Soc'y 196
Am. Asso. Nursery-
men 196
Andromeda speciosa . . 89
Anemone, Pennsylv^a 176
Anemone, Rue 258
Anemones, Japan 27
Annual Flowers 215
Annuals, half-hardy . ..95
Annuals for Shady
Position 203
Ants on Lawn 277
Ants in Garden 266
Aphis in Greenhouse . .il
Aphis, Remedy tor. ..138
Apple Butter 18
Apple Culture. . ...165
Apple Along Highway 196
Apple Garfield 210
Apple Mildew 20
Apple Tree Barli
Louse 20 163-176
Apple Jelly 42
Apple Export.. ..36 110
Apple Maggot 54
Apple Worm 133
Apple Twig Blight... 268
Apple Pomace 203
Apple Butter 91
Apple Scab 112
.\pple Crop NiagaraCo60
AppIeTreeinn(po'm) 255
Apple Ntomi/e House 263
Apple. Wagener 84
Apple, Sweet and Sour
73, 103
Apple, The Shiawas-
see 79, 125
Apple, Pruning North-
Spy ....90
Apple. Princess Louise 160
Apple. Trade, Chop'd .181
Apples for British JIar-
kets 14
Apples Storing. . 7.18-65
Apples for Home Use. .'15
Apples Pay 62
Apples for Market 141
Apples for Michigan . . 134 I
Apples as Food. . .171, 206
.\pples for Missouri . . 196 ,
Apples, Pinking (poem) 9 ;
Apples, Newtown Pip
pin 14-206
Apples, Packing and
Marketing ....30-65-238
Apples, Good in Ont.
Co., N. Y 143
Apples, Russian 63
Apples, Local Ill
Apples. Early Summer 134
Apples, Reproduction 138
Apples, Western .... 213
Apples, Pear-Shaped. 2i\
Apricot, Shense 1
Apricots in Virginia. ..78
Apricots. Russianl70, 2.36
Aquarium Tank 179
Aquarium 70
Arbor Vita?, Insects on
Golden 244
Arbor Day Celebra-
tion 184
Arbor Day, The Good
of 176
Ardesia crenulata ...IH)
Arbutus Trailing(p'm) 132
Arsonites, Effects of.. .53
Ashes, Wood and Coal 109
Ashes, Value of 141
Asparagus for Minn. .140
Asparagus Cutting 194
Asparagus Bids 226
.\sparagu3 Var. . .214,238
Asparagus, Deformed. 21
Asparagus, Salt for. .119
Asparagus, To Serve. 180
Asparagus, Ornam'tal222
Asparagus, Culture of
14 92-163
Asparagus, Rubber
Bands for 174
Asparagus, Keeping
Fresh 176
Asparagus, Barr*s
Mammoth 260
Aster for Cut Flowers. 12
Aster, Culture Chinese 108
August (poem) 227
Australian Forests. .212
Balsam Firs, Shapely 2Si
Bags, Utilize old Fertil-
izer 57
Bananas and Straw-
berries ISO
Bark Lice on Pears 141-168
Barry Patrick, Death
of 206-227
Bass Holder 213
Bean Cleaning Devicellb
Bean, Kumerle LimallO
Bean, Lima, Fungus. 110
Bean, A New Rust-
Proof 00
Beans Improving 125
Beans Stewed with To-
mato 18
Beans, Lima, Gather-
ing 232
Beans, The Skins of. . .66
Beans, Old Fashioned
Baked 66
Beauty in Flower Gar-
den 236
Beans, What I Know
About 79-105
Beans, Keeping Seed. 267
Bed, A Fine "Foliage" 208
Bedding Plants, outfit 207
Bee, Protecting Honey 170
Bees, Do You Keep... 42
Beef wood Tree 12
Beet Sugar ...199
Begonia, Rex 194
Begonia, Metallic-
leaved 36
Begonias Book on . . 45
Bpgontas 103
Begonias. Propaga-
ting 140
Begonias, Tuberous.. 116
Berry Plants, Treat-
ment 162-245
Berry Picking Device 179
Berries in Home Gard 169
Berries, Preparing, .. .222
Berries in Kansas. . . 5
Bird, The Australian.. 25
Birds and Fruit 123
Birds and Forests. ...134
Birds in the Garden . . 109
Birds of Money Value 66
Birds as Planters . . . 238
Birds and Grapes 255
Birds, Useful 227
Birds, Protecting. 1.56.205
Blackberry Disease 69-163
Blackberry Suckers. .245
Blackberry Pudding .243
Blackberry Blossoms |
(poem) 236 j
Blackberry Rust .244 j
Blackberry and Rasp- i
berry Varieties .. .112!
Blackberry, Early . 193 |
Blackberry, E'ly Har-
vest 196
Blackberries, Propa-
gation of 183.245
Blackberries, Culture
112141-218
Blackberry, Ancient :
Briton . .. 84, 125
Blackberries, Manur-
ing 44,163
Blackberries, Miller's 253
Black Knot 86-124 183
Bleaching Evap'at'd
Fruits .... 53
Bloom Prolonging Sea-
son 17-52
Blumenbachia coron-
ata 236
Bone Eating Trees 216
Book on Gardening. .195
Bioks on Fruit and
Vegetable Growing. 92
Bordeaux Mixture 245
Bordeaux Mixture.. 255
Borer Mixture 202
Borers, Wash for 162
Botany for Home and
School 2.37
Botany, Study of 237
Botany, Study of 36
Botany P'bl'c Schools \H
Botanic Garden at St.
Louis lOS
Bouquets. Water . . . . 53
Boxes vs. Pots 216
Boxes and Crates tvith
Springs 213
Branching, Advan-
tages of Law 199
Broccoli, Branching.. 5
Broom Corn Culture. 367
Brussels Sprouts 110
Buckwheat lin Or-
chards 81-125
Bud Variat'n, Varie-
ties,.. 184
Budded Nursery Trees 247
Budding. Season of. . .245
Buffalo Fair 23
Buffalo Berry 134-245
Buffalo Florists' 196
Buffalo Berry 267
Buhaeh Manufacture 183
Buhach Insect Pow-
der 189
Bulb Grow'g at South 344
Bulbs for Sec'd Bloom-
ing 164
Bulbs, Spring Flower-
ing 34
Bulbs, Roots, etc. , that
are Annual. 96
Bulbs, Soil for 246
Bulbs, Fall Plant'g of 270
Unrihicli Cutters. ... 263
Burdock Eradicating 268
C
Cabbage Seed, Grow-
ing 163
Cabbage Enemies. ... 42-
163 140 203
Cabbages not Heading 68
Cabbages, Some New. 106
Cabbages, Starting
Early 116
Cabbages, Early.. 144, 147
Cabbages, Savoy . . . 270
Cactus Culture.. 204, 205
Calceolarias fr'm seed236
Callas in Summer. . . 180
California's Flora. . . . 134
California's Boom . 249
Calla Lily. Poisonous. 194
Camellia Culture, On. 227
Camellias. Repotting. 213
Cannas, Treatment of 2'25
Cannas, Gladiolus
Flowered 42
Canna«, French 193
Canna Seed Germin-
a'n 1.32
Cantelope and Var't'sl96
Caper, The, in Calif. .110
Caraway (poem). . .. 174
Cardoon Growing 232
Carbon Bisulphide . . . 132
Carnations Rooting. ..244
Carnation Propagat'n 74
Carnations, Propaga'g 59
Carnat'n, Origin of
Florists' 38
Carnations, Planting 115
Carriage Corners ... 174
Castor Beans 194
Catalog'e Promi's 175, 191
Catalpa and Drains. . .111
Cat Nuisance 70
Cat Protecting Straw-
berries 174, 209
Cauliflower Seed 118
Cauliflower Pickles... 18
Cedar, Red Pencil
Wood UB
Cellar Drainage 159
Cellar, The 25
Cellar, Warming the
Root 41
Celeriac Growing. . . .232
Celeries. Some New... 106
Celery Culture 207
Celery&Onion Grow'g.211
CeleryOult'e in MlinelSS
Celery for Market 118
Celerv Seed Growing. 118
Celery Notes 104
Celery Blight 268
Celery, Fertilizer for. . 173
Celery, Machine for
Hilling 241
Celery, Blanching 163, 225
Celery, Kalamazoo, . . .210
Celery, Handling 92
Celery, Stewed 77
Celery, Cultivating 32-169
Celery, Winter Storage 78
Celer'j. Boui/uet 51
Chautauqua Co. Vine-
yards 199
Celery, Blanching... 263
Cherry-tree Slug .. .198
Cherry Stock 204
Cherry Culture 14
Cherry. The Wild... . 12
Cherry Trees in Cal.. 260
Cherries Naturally
Grown 47
Cherries, Protecting . 200
Cherries, Grafting. .182
Chestnut New Var'3.220
Chestnut Orchard ... 92
Chestnut Paragon , , . 60
Chestnut, The Sweet. 221
Chestnuts, Propag'n,204
Chestnuts. Preserving 66
Chestnut Paragon ... 36
Chicory .. 221
Christmas Rose E8
Christmas Tree 60
Chrysanthemum Sh'w
Springfield, Mass.. 38
Chrysanthemum Sh'w
in Charleston, S.C..65.38
Chrysanthemum for
Amateurs .37
Chrysanthemum from
Leaf 110
Chrysanthemum Ban-
quet in Japan 109
Chryanthe'm, Liquid
Manure for 244
Chrysanthe'm, Single-
Flowered 154
Chrysanthemums in
Summer 214
Chrysanthe'ms Pro-
pagating 183
Chrysanthe'ms Sport 138
Chyrsanthe'ms Choice 84
Chrysaixthe'ms Hisfy. 74
Cbrsanthemums and
Culture 72
Chrysanthemums in
Snug Harbor 37
Chrysantheno ums
(poem) ... 12
Chrysanthemums for
Flowers 2fi0
Chrysa them'ms.Tall.l95
Chestnut, Spanish ...163
Chrysanthe'ms, Pro-
tecting in Pots ,. .164
Chrysanthemums, 137-I.5S
Chrysanthe'ms, Blue, 110
Chrysanthe'ms^ Many
colored 116
Chrys anthem'U.ms ,
Training 94
Chrysanthe'ms, Good
51.230
Chrysa.nthe'ms, Black
Fly on 65
Chow Chow IS
Cider Making ..,,.. 14
Cider Making. Reform 133
Cider, Keeping Sweet 45
Cider, Danger in 1.80
Cider, Keeping Sweet 268 !
Cinerarias ... 246
Cinijuefoil. Shrubby. .173
Clon and Buds. Pack-
ing 25
Climb's on Tree tr'k's 236
Climbing Trees 200
Clematis Jackmannii.
Planting 245
Clematis Propagat'n. 183
Clematis Di.sease.tSX. 183 j
Clematis, Propagation 84
Clematis, History Uses
11-34
Clod Crusher 232
Coal Ashes .7-14-141-174
Cod lin Moth Parasite . 60
Cold Storage Houses . 30
Cold Frames, Muslin
Covered 85
Coffee, How to make
Good 160
Collards, Georgia. ..241
Colors in Flowers. . . . 192
Colors, Blending 100
Color Development of
in Plants 17
Columbine Flowering
Double 245
Columb's,(0.) Horticul-
tural Society, Pick-
ings from meetings. 86
Commiss'n Merchants
121-136197
Com Merch'ts, Bogus. 189
Commiss'n Merchant-106
Compost, A Good, for
Pot Plants 84
Complete Garden. The
I 22-57-71-95-131
Conservatory, Notes
from . . 4
Concord, Why drops. 21 8
Cook, Prof. Geo. H . . . 49
! Copperas as Fertiliz'rl94
Copperas for Grape
' Rot 86
j Copper Sulphate. Re-
I moving from Grapes 41
Coreopsis Lanceolata 133
Corn Worm. Remedy. 162
Corn, Gold Coin,
Sweet 147
Corn, Sweet 118.141
Corn, Ne Plus Ultra
Sweet 174
Cottonwood Tree. ... 238
Country Homes,
Healthfulnessof..., 65
Covering Pansies, etc *257
Cow Pea 176
Cranberry Dumplings IS
Cranberry Growing. . .136
Cran'bs Keep'g Fresh. 42
Cricket. Tree 45
Crinum Culture.. .. 163
Crinum American. . 366
Crop Feeding ,. 160
Crops in Shade. . 203. 224
Crops Among Fruits
185, 245
Crops, How Grow. . . 154
Curculio on Peaches. . 21
Curculio Beetle Rem. 185
Curculio on Plum. ... 50
Curculic Strinq . . . . 174
Cucumber Beetle .. 52-103-
149
Cucumber Pickles 225
Cucumber Catsup. . . . 264
Cuc'ber B'tle.Striped 265
Cucumber, The Wild.. 200
Cucumbers and Pick-
Curl Leaf of Peach . . .245
Currant Borer 20
Currant Cuttings ... 22
Currant as Tree. .16.3, 171
Currant Crandall.. 86-103
Currant. Red 118-119
Currants, Varieties of 38
Currants, The. . ..252
Currants in Georgia. . 183
Currency. Fractional, 121
Cut Worm, Climbing. 185
Cut Worm, Remedy
for 16-54
Cut Flowers, Preser-
ving 60-65
Cutting, Trees from. . .132
Cuttings. Grape and
Fig .137
Cuttings. Planting... 1.56
Cultivation 200
Cyclamen persicum... 20
Cyclamens, Culture
of 113 180
Cypripedium Site for.204
Cypripedium Specta-
bile 224
Daffodil Sieve 241
Daffodil, Peruvian 9
Dahlia, Culture of 192
Dahlia, Improv'g the. 220
P.ihlias, How to arow.220
Dahlia, History of . .. 62
Dahlias, Planting. . 188
Damp in Greenhouse. 132
Damp Indicator .. .. 179
Dana.Groundsof C. A. 49
Dandelions for Mark't 81
Dandelion Culture , 149
Datura, An Interest-
ing 61, 77
Dande'on, The (poem) 174
Decay, in Trees, Mend-
ing 199
Decorative Horticul-
ture ...218
Decoration, Floral. . . 12
DeerForest.Pleasurea 137
Deutzia crenata 245
Deutzia gracilis 164
Dewberry Lucretia., 267
Dewb'ry Discussions. 260
Dewberry, Lucretia. . .154
Diaries, Amateur. .. 84
Dibber, Improved 26
Dibble, How to ^ise theMl
Dogs for Fertilizer, . . . 175
Dogwood. RedH'w'ed. 251
Dolichos Species 245
Drains, Constructing. . 97
Draining, Depth of... 14
Draining, Effects of.. 14
Drainage, Lecture on. 96
Drainage 116, 41, 130-
Drainage, Thorough . .137
Drouth Time Obser-
vations 267
Drying Flowers in
Natural Color 217
Dungeness, Estate of 154
Dutchman's Pipe and
Laburnum 270
E
Early Crops, Planting 163
Economy, Lessons in. 123
Egg Plant Baked IS
Elder. Golden 225
Elm Types 258
Elm. New Enemy of., 184
Endive Growing., , 2.32
English Wain's in Va. 78
Essays by the Young. .238
Eucalyptus, Antisep-
tic Value 270
Eucharis Amazonica..2I5
Eucharis 224
Euphorbia splendens 183
Evaporating Fruit, 21. 140
Evaporated Fruit
Bleaching 39
Evaporated Vegeta's 27U
Evergreen Fences .. 110
Evergreen Beds 186
Evergreen Planting. . , 196
Evergreens Hurt by
Fire 216
Evergreens for Wind-
breaks 213
Evergreens in Sum'er 2.52
Evergr'ns for Hedges 2.52
Evergreens, Monstro-
sities in 216
Evergreens, Keep
Roots Moist 252
Evergreens. Pruning. -.ihi
Exhibi'on Vill'ge Hort 62
Experiment Stations, .225
Experiment Garden,
Nat. 16
Express Rates, Reduct-
ion 49
Falconer.a visit to W23i
Fall Work, Late 36
Fall Web Worm .... 9
Farmers' Club, Rules. 164
Feeding Plants 112
Fence, The Garden. . 60
Ferns from Seed 182
Ferns in Window 58
Ferns from Seed 45
Fertilizers for Shrubs
and Flowers 46
Fertiliz's, High-grade
Best 43
Fertilezers and Til-
lage 264
Fertiliz's in Greenh'e 250
Fertilizer, The Best. . . 14
Figs at the North. 75, 191
Firming Soil in Plant-
ing 151
Fish Geraniums not
Blooming . 182
Flea Beetle Remedies
39, 40
Floral Parterre ..... 153
Floral Ornaments 111
Floral Notes. N. Y.... 13
Floral Design for Wed-
ding 13
Florists' Convention. 249
Flower Trade, Lon-
don. 194
Flower Growing Com-
mercial 82
Floirer Stand, Novel. 89
Flower Tower 86
Flower Garden in Feb. 117
I IsT 3D E X,
Flmcer Pot Hanger.. 84
Flower Show, ChicaBO 84
Flower PoU. Glazed . . 204
Flon'rs for Table and
Exhibit 11
Flowers for Busy Peo-
ple 10
Flowers in Parks 1
Flowers for the inei- .
perlenced B6
Flowers in Pot 173
Flowers and Railroads 35
Flowers as Educators. 14
Flowers for children. .236
Flowers. Names of . . .246
Flowers. Use of 195
Flowers, Chat about
217, 237
Flowers, Old Fashio'd. 10
Flow'rs. Sum'r Bloom-
ing for Florista . . .61
Flowers. Making up. 259
Flowers, Continuous 258
Flowers. Educational
Effects of 259
Forcing Fruits. 19. 43,
67, 91, 117, 139. 161,
180. 201. 2*j, 24.3
Forcing House^ A
Hand;/ 150
Forcine Houses 176
Forest Rotation 218
Forest Growth, Suc-
cession of" 63
Forestry Farm 131
Fraxinella. Burning. 216
Freesia 259
Frost and Flowers
(p'ml 36
Frosts, Effects of .. . 50
Fruit Garden .19, 43,
67. 91. 117. 139. 161.
180.201,223. 243
Fruit Growing in Kan 5
Fruit Growing in Neb. 5
Fruit Ladder, A Self-
supporting, 26
Fruit Notes, Niagara
Co 32
Fruit as Medicine 41
Fruit Trees, Sertin?. . . 41
Fruit Trees, Moving
Large 45
Fruit Pres. for Eshib 41
Fruit N"ts, Judge Mil-
ler'= 50
Fruit Outlook. The
120.143. 165, 187
Fruit in the Highway. 110
Fruit Novelties 132
Fruit Storage South .121
Fruit Trees. Spraying. 163
Fruit Growers' Union
needed 156
Fruit Dryer, Home-
Made 221
Fruit Crop Report 225
Fruit and Berry Pick-
er 236
Fruit Dried, Sulphur-
ing 2.38
Fruit Acids 217
Fruit Dangers and
Remedies 263
Fruit Pickers, Serv-
iceable ... 254
Fruit Outlook in Ohio 255
Fruit, The Settler s .247
Fruit, No Danger in
Good 89
Fruits for Kansas . . 20
Fruits in Nebraska... 14
Fruits for Home use. 205
Fruits for Exhibition. 206
Fruits for Children. . 238
Fruits and Locality .113
Fruits and Flowers of
Japan 159, 178, 177
Fruits as Medicine. . . 260
Fruits. Cooking 14
Fruits, Local 51
Fruits. Evaporation of
91. 95
Fruits. Exotic in Cau. 75
Frtdts, Trellises for . . 184
Fruits. Tender 166
FruitP.Tropical Cult'e225
Fruits. Judging 238
Fuchsias. Wintering. . 59
Fuchsias. Thrips on . . 93
Fuchsias. Potting Old. 93
Fungicid'sand Spray-
ing PumpH 211
Ftingu.'i, .^hnthole or
Plum-Leaf 259
G
Garden Bag 258
Garden Story, by EU-
wanger 13
Garden Manure 162
Garden as Home Gym-
nasium ...174
Garden, Glass in 119
Garden, the Home.. .134
Garden. The Village.. 15B
Garden. An Ailing ...248
Garden, The Home ..235
Garden, Possibilities
of Small 173
Gardeners' Friends
and Foes 159
Gardening. Fine Con-
tagious 858
Gardening RequisiteB200
Gas Lime \Si
Genista. The Twig'ng263
Geranium Freak. ...154
Geranium Cuttings. . 258
Geraniums not Bloom-
ing IW
Geraniums, Potted .. . 18
Geraniums. Zonale...l63
Girdling the Vine. .197
Glazing. Lead Cappedl38
Golden Elder Leaves
Dying 267
Gooseberry Mildew- ..244
Gooseberry Pudding. 242
Gooseberry-, A Fine. .270
Gooseberries Among
Pears 118. 119
Gooseberries. Shade
for 204
Gourd. A Japan 221
Grafting Wax Recipe 60
Grafting Cherries .141
Grafting English
Walnuts 125
Grafting Herbaceous
growths 226
Grafting the Grape.. 176
Grafting. Root 92
Grape Cultitre Train-
ing 8,14
Grape Vines, Pruning
21, 140
Grape Cure. 38
Grape Rot. .39.50, 80, 125
Grape Vines a'd Rasp-
berries. Protecting. 45
Grape Vines, Laying
Down 45
Grape Culture, 32, 56,
77, 124. no
Grape Seedlings.
Starting 69
Grape Crop of 1889. .. 54
Grape Vine, A Large. 84
Grape Juice, Preserv-
ing 89
Grape Lutie 86
Grape Cuttings 93
Grape Baskets, CheapllO
Grape Myrtle 270
Grape Cure 263
Gripe Jelly 264
Grape Diseases 140
Grape Syrup 1.38
Grape Vines Frosted. 154
Grape Vine Bleeding
Stopped 174
Grape Vine Flea Bee-
tle 198
Grape Trellis, Broad-
topped 199
Grape Trellis, Single
Post 212
Grape Pie 242
Grape Jelly „242
Grape, Newer Varie-
ties, 12. 16, 210. 218. 245
Grape, Variegated ... 69
Grape, White Muscat 69
Grape. North'n Light 84
Grape, Grafting the. 90
Grape. Exotic Plants.203
Grape. Cortland ...258
Grapes and Fruit
Trees. Manuring... 66
Grape. Th"? Culinary .260
Grapes profitable 260
Grapes on House Wall 68
Grapes in Iowa 89
Grapes running to
Vine 140
Grapes over trees 137
Grapes and Climate. .239
Grapes as Affected by
Climate and Situa'n262
Grapes, Marketing.. 260
Grapes in Florida . . 270
Grapes. About New.. 15
Grapes. Sun for 41
Grapes, Soil for ..38
Grapes. Ej-otic. 25. 106.
141, 177, 193
Grapes. White 60
Grapes, Winter Pro-
tection for 59. 65
Grapes, Pruning of
Vines under Glass . . 56
Grapes, Distance for. 93
Grapes, Manure.. 112, 176
Grapes. Notes on
Tested 104
Grapes, Brighton, 148,160
Grapes. Marketing... 170
Grapes, Exotic in FlaI86
Grapes. Native 196
Grapes, Summer
Pruning 188
Grapes under Glass,
141.171,206, 249
Grapes, Birds Injuri'g231
Grapes. On Using ...227
Grapery, Number of
Vines. 167,224
Green Fly on Haw-
thorn 266
Greenfiy Killing 261
Greenhouse Heating,
12. 45. 75. 125. 150, 182
Greenhou.se Walls,
Construction . . . .35. 53
Greenhouse Exposu'el34
Greenhouse, A Cheap 89
Greenhous*. Shady. ..Ill
Grub, The White . ... 174
Gun, Self-operating
Animal 72
Gypsy Moth 236
H
Hale. J, H. , Appointm'tl74
Hand Book. Hender-
son's 36, 151
Hazelbushes.Killing ..119
Health Recipe 213
Heating Greenhouses. 1*25
HeatiDf; Frames. 176,190
Heating. Hot Water
vs. Steam 195
Hedges for Wind B'ks 86
Hedge, Plant Thorn I TO
Hedges.Qetting Rid otl32
Heeling in Trees, etc. 131
Heeling in Plants 150
Heliotrope Fumigat'nllO
Heliotrope as Bedder,174
Helleborus nlger. ... 58
Hollyhock Blight .. 266
Hemlock, The Native 222
Hens. Bees. Fruit. .. 200
Herbaceous Plants
from Seed 20
Herbs in Garden 10
Hne, A Wcrding . . 250
Hollyhock Blight. .. 202
Hollyhock (poem I . 236
HomeExperim'nt Sta-
tions 237
Home Fruit Garden.. 104
Home Garden 106
Home Inprovements.144
Home Brightening... 86
Home Grounds, Im-
proving 97
Homes, Making At-
tractive 218
Honeysuckle Insect . . 93
Honeysuckle.Tartar'n
Increasing 70
Honeysuckles, Bush.
237.245
Hop as Ornamental
Climber 2.36
Horse Radish Sauce. .242
HorseChestnut, Dwarf
Red-flowering 245
Horse Hoe. Improved.205
Horse Chestnuts in
London 194
Horticulturist's Rule
Book 174
Horticultural Edu'ti'nl99
Horticulture in Sch'ls. 95
Horticultural Meet'gs 49
Hot-beds. Care... 113, 144
Hot-bed Pets 160
House Plants, Care of2-38
House Slops inGarden238
House Plants. Proffg 36
House Plants& Health 85
House Plants. Care of258
House Plants. 18.42,66,
90. lie, 138. 160, 180
20O, 222, 242, 264
Hoya, Bloomless. ...
Huckleberry. White.. 42
Humming Birds Nests216
Hyacinth Bulhs Gum-
^ming 268
Hydr'ngea panicul'ta 183
Hydrangea as Cut F'r 42
Hydrangea as .Stand. 68
Hydrangea. Climbing263
Hydrangeas in Pots. 83
Hydrangeas Blue... . 257
Ice House, Plan for.. 267
Illinois Fruit Enterp'e 78
India Rubber Plant. 211
In January tPoemK.. 73
Ind. State Hort Soc'tyll2
Insect Powder Indus-
try 70,189
Insect Talk 106
Insect Pests of Pof P'(sl72
Insect Remedies. .198, 242
Insect vs. Insect 2-38
Insect Friends 262
Insects in < irchard ... 1 so
Insects Fire for . 270
Insests and Elec.Lgt. 240
Insects. Sand for 110
Insects. Injurious 198
Insecticide. Bordeaux
Mixture 238
Irrigation 7, 29, 53
Irrigation and Water
Supply 259
Irrigating Western
Plains 185, 209
Iris. Mad. C'ftereou. . .132
Iron for Fruit Trees. .202
Ivy Ball 110
Ivy. German 227
Ivy Geraniums 37
Judging Fruits 2.38
July (poem) 205
Juneberry Dwarf .119.156
June (Poem 1 185
June Rose (poem) — 216
Kainit
.45,93,203
Kalamazoo, A. N. J.. 116
Keeping Choice Fruit. 66
Keic Tree Seedling. . .179
Knife, New Fruit... 18
Kohl Rabi 190
Label Cost 12
Labels for Exhibits.. 251
Labels, Copper 154
Labels, Ink for Zinc .110
Ladder, Fruit 86
Lady Birds... 12, 53, 103
Ladv Bird. Australian 36
Lady Birds rf- Ha6i(sl43
LadyBug.Planteat'g 267
"Landscape Archi-
tects" 105
Landscape Gardeni'g.
23. 87. 160, 163
Latcn Float 1%
Lawn Seeding 186
Lawn Grass Tests 166
Lawn Planting Prin-
ciples 173
Laum Curves 129
Lawn Planting. .120. 129
Lawn making .86. 134
Lawn and Flower
Garden, 18, 42, 67. 90.
138, 160. 180, 200,
222, 243. 264
Lawn, Thistles on. . . .298
Layering Hard-wood-
ed Plants 28,205
Leaf Mold for Shrubs 59
Lettuce under Glass. . 62
Lettuce Mildew 62, 67
Lettuce Salad 180
Lettuce, Winter 89
Lettuce, Tennisball. . . 20
Levels in Draining . .130
Lightning Rods .. 68
Lightning. Death by. 2S4
Lily of Valley. 13. 17,
45. 68
Lily. Scarborough
Culture 98
Lilium auratum 236
Lilium auratum 93
Lima Beans, Seed and
Planting 2
Lima Bean Planter. . . 174
Lima Beans. Canned. 264
Lima, Bush 1,29, 60
Lime and Salt 156
Lime in Soil 238
Live Oak in S. C. .236
Locust Trees. Killing. 45
Locust Seed. Saving. 258
Locust, Honey -.141
London Purple and
Paris Green 26
London Purple, 39, 53. 77
Long. Henry M 1
Lotuses, Growing... 183
Low Prices, Fruit,
Cause 85
Low Lands torOnio'8203
Lupines 9
Lycopodium Pyramid
of 217
M
Mall •ws,A WiteGardWS
Manettia Vine 174
Manure Pays 112
Manure Spreading in
Winter 90
Manure Hauling. ..44. 42
Manure for Bulbs — 264
Manure. Liquid 132
Manure. Feeding with
Little and Often... 12
Manure. Blood 2C4
Manures for Garden
188. 200
Manuringon In8t'lm'tsl56
Mango and Caulitlo'r
Pickles 267
Maple Bark Louse.. 266
Maples, The Japanese 84
March (poem) ... 132
MariannaPlumasSt'k 44
Market Gardening as
a Business 87
Market Gardening,
Buying a Place. .. 38
Market forProducers.'222
Markets forFruits, 197,241
Marketing Suggest'nsl69
May Mos2 241
Melon, Musk. Classifi-
cation 197
Melon Bright 257
Melon Blight 567
Melons. Winter 167
Mexico. Notes on. ... 239
Mice in Orchard... 18. 124
Mich. Pom Soc. Meet'g 63
Mich Hort.Soc.Offic's.ll2
Mignonette for Winter 62
Mildew in Pit 118
Mimulus. The 259
Mimulus in California. 236
Mint Culture 119
Missouri Horticult'ts
113, 114
Missouri, Fruits in . . . ^5
Mock Orange, Small-
leaved 109
Mole in Lawn 270
Moles and Gophers.. 264
Moles. Remedy for.. 286
Moon Influence. 202. 346
Morel and other Fungi]57
Morn'g Glories (poem )216
Moth, The Gypsy. ..73
Mountain Holly 93
Mountain Ash, The. ..242
Mulberries as Fruit. .213
Mulberry- .The Russian 42
JIulch. Summer 119
Mulching Trees.. 222, 224
Mulching with Tan
Bark 66
Mushroom Culture in
Paris 106
Mushr'm Profitable.. 258
JIushroom Spawn 141
Mushrooms in Open
Air 137, 221
5Iushrooms 33, 115
Mushrooms, Cooking. 119
Muslin for Hot-bed. ..254
Myrtle Dying 93
Myrtle, Japanese Can-
dleberry 112
K
Xarcissus, Two Var. 256
Narcissus Fly 31
Narcissus Bulbs, Re-
plant Early 235
Naming Plants, Sense
and Nonsense in. .- 261
Nasturt'm Chameleon 11
Nasturtium. Tuberous 9
Nasturtiums in Housel38
National Flower 4
Native Trees 180
NativeTrees for Home
Ornament 62
NewFruits. Discourses 96
New York Floral Notes
37. 61.85. Ill, i:S3,155,175
Nicotiana afiSnis . 12
Nitrate of Soda ... 267
Nitrate of Soda, 68,
135. 202, 163, 208
N. J. State Hort. Soc. 106
N. Y . State Fair 40
Nomenclature, Veg't'e 36
Northern III. Hort.Soc. 1.50
Nothing to Sell Here. 349
Notes from P. G. Ex-
perimen t Grounds
27, 51, 165. 186. 228, 250
Notes from Montgom-
ery Co., Mo 206
Novelties, Vegetable. . 90
Novelties. Protecting. 247
Novelties, Unsatisfac-
tory 252
November, (poem) ... 25
Numbering Device... 56
Nursery Business
Growth of 210
Nurserymens' Meet'g 210
Nurserymens'Addre's 81
Nut Culture, Future. 179
Nut Trees, Seedling. .218
Nuts and Nut Trees.6,2.36
N. J. State Hort. Soc. 260
O
Oak, The Scarlet .. 110
Oaks, Arching Pin.. .235
Ocean as Tree Plant' rl 72
Ohio Hort. Society. . . 97
Ohio Horticultural
Society Report. -.105
Ohio State Hort. Soc. 196
Oil Stove and Drum
for heating Small
Greenhouse 45
Okra Fibre 174
Old Trees, Grubbing
out 116
Old Man 182
Oleander Cuttings. . 185
Oleander Slips . ... 205
Oleander, To Grow... 217
Onion Set Growing... 9
Otiion, Prizetaker.27.lG5
Onions Marketing '260
Onions in Winter.. 41. 42
Onions from Sets 88
Onions. No Manure. 112
Onions on low land. ..203
Ont. Fruit Growers'
Meeting 253
Ontario Fruit List. ... 94
Ontario, Canada. Fniit
Growers 170
Orange Trees, Black
Leaves on 104
Orange Wine. FloridallO
Oranges and GrapeF't211
Orchard in Winter... 63
Orchard Planting — 78
Orchard Site 156
(Orchard Care 14
Orchard, Green Ma-
nure 141
Orchard, Feeding ...213
Orchards, Seeding old 69
Orchards, Cultivating
Young 226
Orcharding for Profit -38
Orchid Collection .. 185
Orchids Misnamed- .. 49
Orchids for Amateurs204
Orchids. Old 93
Orchids. Book on. .. 246
Oregon Fruit Notes. . 254
Oregon Grapes 232
Ornamental Trees
for North 261
Ornamental Shrubs,
Hardy 15, 83
Ornamental Planting,
38, 84
Orname't'tn of Homel93
Ornithogalum 164
1»
Packing Fruits 190
Packing Plants... 21.167
Pa-ony not Blooming. 93
Paint for TreeWounds 90
Palm Seedrgs.Grow'g-14
Palm Seed 182
Palms. Fertilizers for. 45
Park Planting 218
Park, Palmer's 110
Park.Embellish'nts of 143
Parks at Buffalo 1
Parsnip Fritters 180
Parsnips Fried IS
Pansies from Seed . . . 109
Pans.v Enemies 93
Peach and Plum
Growing at the
North 268
Peach Trees. Life of. 14
Peach Culture in Ni-
agara Co 32, 33
Peach and Plum Rot. 57
Peach Borer.. . .86. 124
Peach Trees. Protec^
ing at North liO
Peach Culture 1.56
Peach Salway 176
Peach Bark Borer 198
Peach Culture in Conn240
Peach Seedlings 119
Peach on Plum Ill
Peach, .Selection ofYarll2
Peach, Hill's Chili. .112
Peach, Curl-leaf of . . .226
Peach, Wilson 216
Peach. Pruning the. .218
Peach. Patterson 36
Peaches. Clingstone.. 38
Peaches, Culture for. .38
Peaches Essex Co .. 124
Peaches, Varieties of. 124
Peaches, Pruning 140
Peaches, Fine New.. .143
Peaches, Seedling .. 160
Peaches.The Hardiest 217
Peaches. Early 6
Peanuts for North 51
Pear Culture 124
Pear Orchard, Dwarf .140
Pear and CherryOrch,176
Pear Seedlings 264
Pear Scab 213
Pear Blight 209
Pear blight Beetle. . 198
Pear. Kieffer, 36, 90,
101, 1.38
Pear. Fitzwater 60
Pear, Angouleme ]7
Pear, Early Wilder.. 46
Pear, Le Conte, 02, 77,
103. ITl. 191. 231
Pear.Qarber& Clapp's G2
Pear. Bartlett SeedlgllO
Pear, Dwarf Orchard 162
Pear. Re-grafting ... 16
Pear, Bartlett, losing
ground 148
Pear. Duchesse 173
Pear, Krull's Winter.
167. 194, 210
Pear, Forelle 185
Pears in 5Iissouri. . . 50
Pears for New York. , 93
Pears. Riiiening of... 17
Pears. Pruning 267
Pears. Canning 264
Pears. Report on 30
Pears. PlautingDwarfs
to Become Stand'dsl07
Pears Oriental asDw'fl25
Pears.Dwarf v. Stand-
ard 213
Pears, Picking 2.38
Pecan Trees, (Caterpil-
lars on 118
Pepper, Black FloridallO
Peppers Rotting.. 3
Peppers, Procftpp's . . 27
Perfumery,Flo'r"sfor 267
Periwinkle 270
Periiuinkle as Pot
Plant 147
Peroxide of Silicate.. 31
Persimmon, Japanese 25
Persimmons. Japanese
in California.. . 194
Pests, Household. 204
Peter Henderson 101
Phosph. Acid in Bone 257
Phosphates on Grapesl76
Phosph. Acid. Sources 196
Picking Small Fruits. 140
Pickle Growing for
Profit 210
Pickled Cucumbers.. 222
Pincers for Bugs. . .. 190
Pine Apple for Dip-
theria 242
Pine, White Weevil.. 55
Pinks. Hardy Ill
Pittosporum.Varieg'dl64
Plant House Overh'g. 36
Plant Protect'n byjiig 61
I IT ID E X.
PlantCollarExpand'g 83
Plant Box. Cheap.. . 257
Plant Oils Distillation.102
Plant Protector 132
Plant Names. Confu'Dl55
Plant Bed, Muslin Siz-
ing for 167
Plant Rack 204
Plant a Grove 198
Plant Lice Remedy. . .20.3
Plant, Holy Ghost ... 21
Plants Under Glass. 9,
42,67,91.118.139,161,
180,201,233, 243, 265
Plants Modification. , . 121
Plants from Seed . 155
Plants in House and
Greenhouse 154
Plants in Winter 205
Plants in Small Pots.. 110
Plants Flowerl'g, May245
Planting Spindling
Plants 191
Plant ingStrawberrieslh2
Planting a Place, 127,150
Planting Distance. ..\2S
Planting in Groups. . .12.S
Planting Early Crops. 141
Pl'nfg in Undr'd SoillX)
Pla tingVine Against
House 131
Planting Fruit Trees 44
Planting, Success and
Failure ..150
Plant'g. FallorSori'g 255
Planting, Record of.. 155
Planting, Reasons fori'Xl
Planting, Laying Out 127
Planting, Bui/'g Stock\ZO
Plant'g, Spring or Fall. 130
Planting, Ornamental. 131
Plugging Trees for
Disease 202
Plum Purple-leaved.. 51
Plum Rot, Peach and . 77
Plum Tree, Barren... 119
Plum Rot 130
Plum Rot 163
Plum Culture 170
PlumCulture and Cur-
culio 169
Plum Pudding 242
Plum Tree Suckers. . . 245
Mum, Marianna, 77,
148, 162. 141
Plum, Marianna from
Cuttings 203
Plum, Pissardi 141
Plum, Kelsey 138
Plum, Lombard.. .162
Plum.Dbl-fl'd Chine8el95
Plums in Virginia. . . 78
Plums for Profit ....183
Plums for Profit 213
Plums, The Best 156
Plums, Curculio proof 118
Plums, Selection of .112
Plums.Notes on Newer 39
Plunging Plants . .. 220
Plung'g Potted Plants217
Poinsettia, Tree Form245
Poisonous Plants. ...205
Pollen for Crossing. . .233
Pomegranate.no Bl'm245
Popcorn for Profit — 221
Poppies, Oriental — 216
Popular Garde.n'ing
Grounds, Visit .. 191
Popular Gardenmng
Grounds, Falconer. 25
Porcelain Fruits 2,36
Post-holes in hardpan 90
Post Setting Firmly.. 61
Potash Fertilizers ...170
Potash for Strawber'sl83
Potash for Beets and
Grapes 176
Potash for Fruits .154
Potash Salts 44
Potash, Muriate and
Sulphate 99
Pot Plants.Manag'm't 5
Pot, Improved Plant. 60
Potato Rot 21, 38
Potato Sorter 41
Potato in Silo 42
Potato Digger 45, 68
Potato Cheese 66
Potato Soup 66
Potato Bugs. Less .242
Potato Seed Puzzle.. 179
PotatoCulture Requis-
ites 171
Potato Seedlings. 144, 208
Potato. Substitute for
Wanted 154
Potato, The Best. .44,163
Potatoes Doubling
Yield 93
Potatoes for 5Ianure.l38
Potatoes, Selection of
Seed 260
Potat's Earlyand Latel56
Potatoes, Keepi'gSw't 53
Potatoes, Preserving
for Seed 55
Potatoes. Keep Dark . . 66
Potatoes, Early 132
Potatoes, Varieties of. 128
Potatoes.European.. .138
Potatoes, Hints on... 73
Potatoes,Cul,of Sweetl56
Potatoes, When to
Grow 180
Potat's,SweetatNo"th 51
Potting Bench, A Con-
venient 37
Poultry Manure... 92,118
Poultry Yard, 19, 43,
67, 91, 117, 139, 161,
ISO, 201. 123, 243,365
Poultry, Prolific . . 163
Prairie Trees from
Seed 264
Pruning Hook for
Bush Fruits 171
Preparing for Spring 77
Preserving Fruit-. ..222
Preserving Flowers. .. 20
Prickley Comfrey and
Winter Vetch 45
Prices for Fruit, Main-
taining 197
Primula Double 83
Primula Obconica 137
Primulas, Alpine 221
Primroses, Prop'g Dbl,140
Privet, Golden-tinted. 110
Propagat'n bySprout6l40
Propagation, Book on 68
Prophet Flower 221
Propping Trees 216
Protect'g Vines Etc.. 20
Protection for Young
Trees a7id Shrubs.. 61
Pruners, Home-Made 65
Pruning 152
Pruning Tool, Chisel 154
Pruni'gThin-nyBu.'ih's 49
Pruning Raspberries. 20
Pruning Peach Trees. 20
Pruning the Pear, 216,224
Pruning Trees ...121
Pruning, Right ..131
Puddling Roots 150
Puddhng 190
Pumpkin, (poem) 36
Pumpkins Fried 18
Purslane Pest 241
Pyrethrum 236
I^rethrum roseum. . .216
«
Quack Grass, How De-
stroyed .54
Quince. The Japan.. 255
Quince Twig Blight. . 207
Quince Marmelade... 19
Quince Jelly from
Parings 18
QuincePropagati'n,68, 94
Quince, Kieff'er on — 72
Quince blossomBeetlel98
Quince, Japan, for Fr't242
R
Rabbits and Mice, Pro-
tection from 110
Rabbits, Protecting
Trees Against, 48,62,
53, 06, 69, 124. 152
Radishes, Early . . .187
Railroad Station Gar-
dening 37, 77
Rain Water Sioitch.. 96
Rainfall a Heavy . .216
RaisinsfromAm,Gr'p's84
Raspberry for Jelly.. 86
Raspberry Rust. ... 266
Raspberry Planting. . 69
Ra8pberryCulture,100,
163, 191
Raspberry and Black-
berry Hybrids 90
Raspberry, Nemaha ..112
Raspberry ,Tompson'8
Early U3
Raspberry, Kansas. .143
Raspb'ry,Qold'nyueen 82
Raspberries, Yellow . . 103
Raspberr's and Black-
berries, Best ... 38
Raspberries and Black-
berries 158
Raspberries in Ohio . . 176
Raspberries, Yield of . 69
Raspberries, New .132
Raspberries, BIackcapl47
Raspberries, Pruning,
44, 45, 69, 93
Raspberries,Growth of
6, 22
Rats, Killing 69
Recipes for Househ'd.200
Recipes for December 66
Remembrance (poem)194
Remedies tor Insects. 216
Repacking Cal. Fruitsl69
Rhododendron Show. 260
Rhododendrons,H'dy 2.5S
Rhubarb Shortcake. ISO
Rhubarb Pie 180
Rhubarb, Forcing.. . 260
Rhubarb 20
Riley.Prof.MuchHon'd 25
Roads, The Public. . . 258
Rockery, Plants for,
107, 141
Rot'nWood,Fertlliz'r 267
Root Crops. Digging. .161
Root Grafts 133
Root Beer 174
Root Grafts andWhole
Roots 191
Root grafted Trees... 247
Roots, Wintering ,33
Rose Cuttings, Srrik'g 36
Rose Beds.Man're for 266
Rose Bug Remedy . . 60
Rose Forcing byExp't 58
Rose Bugs. Remedies
84, 244,227
Rose Pest, A New... 198
Rose Beetle. Fuller's. 245
Rose leaf Hopper. . . .244
Rose. Jacqueminot, 20, 60
Rose, Black Spot ou. . 16
Rose, Change the Soil 49
Rose, A Fine New . . 155
Rose, Insects on Home204
Rose, Hints on Hardy
Culture 186
RosesNot Blooming,60,93
Roses in < >pen Ground 65
Roses from Seed .... 141
Roses from England- . 163
Roses in Greenhouse. 183
Roses for Perfume ..169
Roses.Hybrid Perpet'l 3S
Roses, Perles ou Bank-
sia 66
Roses, Hardy 95,135
Roses, Black Spot of. 267
Roses for Out-doors. 267
Roses, Planting 110
Roses, Pruning 135
Roses, Insects and Fu-
migation 135
Roses, Oil of 1.32
Roses, Propagating. . . 164
Roses, Budding and
Grafting 183
Roses, Protecting Tree
from Sun Scald .. 202
Roses, Tender ... 206
Roses, Pruning Hardyl96
Roses, Liquid Manure. 216
Rubber Tree Cuttingsl84
Rubber Plant, soil for.226
Rubbish, Disposlot,94, 119
Rural Improvement
Association needed 270
Rural NewYorkerSoldl54
Salsify, Sandwich Is-
land 103, 160
Salsify, Boiling 180
Sal Soda as Fertilizer. 183
Sash,Repair'gHot-bed 52
Scraping Trees 21 3
School ground Planl'g518
School Garden ,218
Screens for Roses — 236
Seed Control Stations 49
Seed DivisionHumbug 49
Seed and Fruit 112
Seeds and SeedGr'w'gl53
Seeds Soaking . . 220
Seeds, Tariff on.. 204, 246
Seeds, Starting Fine. 149
Sellers Responsibility. 121
Selling Truck at Profltl60
Selling Fruit. . .36
September (poem) 258
Shade, Crops in 225
Shading 61as5 with
Paint 174
Shaw, Mr. Henry — 12
Sheep and < )rchard . . 180
Shelter Belts 84
Shipping Crates, Bask. 1.34
Shipping Green Fruit. 112
Shot hole Fungus ...222
Shrub BorderMistake 251
Shrubs for Wisconsin . 140
Shrubs of Y'esso 168
Shrubs, Our Native.. 152
Shrubs,HardyOru'm'l:39
Shrubs, Hardy 121
Shrubbery, What to
Make of the 307
Shrubbery at *' Wood-
banks,'' 166
Shrubbery for the N.W 88
Shrubbery Planting.. 86
Sizing forHotb'd Sashl62
Slug Shot 266
Slugs, Remedy for.66,236
Small Fruit for Fam"y220
Small Fruits, Money in3I9
Small Fruits, Managing 15
Small Fruits for Minn. 162
Small Fruit Farm,Size 20
Small Fruits in Mich. 109
Small Fruit Plants,
Packing 46
Small Fruits, Notes on 152
Smilax 122
Smilax from Seed . , . 217
Snails, Remedy for. .225
Snowball Jap, An... 258
Soap Suds for Trees. 222
Soap-suds for Garden. 370
Society Am. Florists. 1
Soil for Pot Plants... 89
Soil Preparation . . . 132
Soil Difliculties 208
Soil. Improving the. ..160
Soil Influence on Fr'tsl99
Soils, Warming Cold. 147
Soohora.Thr Weeping2I6
S.EIll. Fruit Growers.I53
Southern Opportuoit's 17
Sparrow, Caterpillars. 137
i Sparrow. The English
I 171. 179. 202, 233
Spiderwort TheTrail'g 25
Spinach Greens 180
Spinach, Nitrate of
Soda on ...208
Spinach, Wintering. 367
Split Trees, Mending. 222
Spraying with London
Purple 5
Spray i n g Pu mp Neces-
sary 177
Spraying, Effects of . .113
I Spraying, Prize for. ..174
! Sprayer, A Cheap . . 121
Sprayer, Portable . . . 202
\ Spring Sftoicflake . -.193
! Spring ( poem) 165
Spruce Colorado Blue,216
Squash, Growing Win-
ter in Ills 28
Squash, Hubbard ... 68
Squash, Red China.. 3
Stakes for Plants. .. .132
.Staking Trees 152
Staging, Galvanized. .110
Stak'gHerbac's Plants 17
Stations. Work for... 73
Step Ladder .Self -Sup-
porting ... .... 199
Stock Dug too Early. .247
Stock. Care of. Before
Planting 121
Stock, Do'bleTen-week221
Stone Mulch forTreesl64
Straw for Protection. 90
StrawberryBeds,Burn-
iug Over 5
Strawberry Culture in
England 31
Strawberry Patch, Re-
newing 66
Strawberry Syrup . 238
Strawberry Seedlings.162
Strawberry Bed, The. 166
Strawberry Patch,The208
Stralcberry Report in
the Fall 228
Strawberry Varieties
in Ohio 233
Strawb'yBeds,Dur'blel71
Strawberry Setter 168
Strawb'yand Banan"sl80
Strawb'y Song (poemll94
Strawb'y Beds.Burn'gl95
Strawberry Growing
for Market 269
Strawberry. Cultivated
and Wild 31
Strawberry, Selection
of Plants andlsoil for 31
Strawberry, Early ... 69
Strawber'v,LadyRuskl32
Strawb'y, L'ge }'roliflcl63
SVwb'y, Large Bubach
190, 209
Straw1)e'y, TheAlp'e 249
Strawberries in Indi'a 8
Strawberries in Pear
Orchard 103
Strawberries Summer
vs. Fall Plan ting... 248
Strawber's Pot Layers 3
Strawb's for Market. 120
Strawber's for Mark't.168
Strawb's How Grown
in Drv Gravel . . .268
Strawb's on P. G.ar'dsl87
Strawbe's, The Newer
6, 213
Strawberries, Setting,
21,33, 86, 197, 218. 232
21, 46, 141
Strawberries. Mulchi'g 45
Strawberr's, Mulching
• 63, 68, 77
Strawberries, Winter
Protection for 56
Strawberries,Pistillate 69
Strawberries, Early
Runners Best 62
Strawberries, Crescent
and Wilson 89
Strawb's, Advance in . 133
Strawbe's, Thrips on . .249
Strawberries. Qrowi'gl58
Straw berries, Protec'g
from Grub .163
Strawberries, Jewell. .188
Strawberries, Propa-
gating Choice 245
Succulents for Florist 350
Sulphates. Effects of, 69
Sulph of Copper Eff'ts 60
Sunimer'gHousePrts.183
Sunflo'r Seed as Bait. 258
SuperiorProducePay8241
Swamp Muck 93
Sweet Potato, Keeping
21, 45
Sweet Corn, Quality of
226, 344
Sweet Corn 199
Sweet Potato Culture.318
Sweet Potato Vines,
Cutting 266
Syrphus,The Cabbagel33
j Table Decoratiojis,
Holiday 59
Table andRoomDecor-
ation 182
TalmanSweet as Stock 14
Tamarix 156
Tariflf on Fruits 4
That Bay Window. ... 73
Thaw'g Froz'nGround 89
Thinning Vegetables 128
Thinning Early, 116, 194
Thinning Fruit and
: Melons 9, 194
Thurber, Dr. George.. 165
! Tiger Lily. Double... 82
Tigridias. New 175
Tillage good as Mulc'gl53
Tillage in Garden. ...218
Tillage. Deep 60, 131
Tile, Color of Drain. . . 17
Tin Cans, On Using .166
Toad as Insect Trap,
186, 196
Tobacco Stems 160
Tomato Rot 60
Tomato S)ed Curing. 17
Tomato Growing 147
Tomato Forc'g House2a!i
Tomato Canning . . .242
TomatoWormRe'edy 267
Tomato Rot 268
Tomato Pickles, Gr'n 264
Tomato Preservers
Green 364
Tomato, The Peach. . . 103
Tomato, Volunteer. . 109
Tomato, Ignotum . . . . 132
Tomato, Early Ruby. 121
Tomatoes under Glass 90
•TomatoeB for Winter. 18
■Tomotoes for Money. 134
Tomatoes as Food . . . 327
Tomat's in Tree Form 194
Tomatoes and Eggs. , 264
Tomatoes, Fried. ...264
Tomotoes, Canning.. 264
Tomatoes, Trellising. 255
Tomatoes, Train'ng.2iG
Tomatoes, Mildew on. 163
Tomatoes, Bagging.. 160
Tomatoes,Early29.105,
110, 148
Tools for Orchard ... 81
Tradescanthias and
Commelinas 216
Training Early 110
Transplanter Barron's
Tree 1
Transplant'g Influe'ce 57
Trausplant'g Condi-
tions of Success ... 190
Transplanter,Tobac'o338
Transplanting in Au-
tunm 325
Tree Scraper, Uu iver'l 56
Tree of Ages 60
Tree Tomato, Brazill'n 84
Tree Fruits for Ohio. .163
TreePlant'g.Thoughts
About 178
Tree Cricket, Snowy. 136
Tree Growi'g, Imp'v'dl48
Tree Protector 32'.J
Tree,Largestin Flo'da 50
"Trees on Waste Placesl59
Trees and Berries .... 183
Trees and Humidity.. 351
Trees, Transplanting
Large 45. 163. 185
Tiees. Planting... 21. 45
Trees, Fall Planting .3'26
Trillium as Bedder. . ,174
Trillium, Pink-eyed. .. 174
Trilliums 9
Trimming the Roots. 100
Tropical Fruits inAm 110
Tropi'l Fruits, Culfe. 266
Troirels and Weeders,
Use for Broken . . 195
Tuberoses 59
Tulip Sport 194
TulipTree forLa'n etc. 3
TuUp Tree 39, 343
Tulips and Hyacinths
in Masses, .. 10
Tulip.i,TheMa-$si'gof 251
TuruipTopsforGre'ns 93
Turnips for Seed. . . 221
Turtle in Greenhouse. 180
Vallota,TheCulture of 98
Varieties RunningC)ut209
Vegetable Garden, 19,
4-3,91, 67.119. 161.180,
201,333, 343, '265
Vegetable Products
on Table, 18, 90, 116.
160. 180, 223, 243
Vegetable Growers
Association 73
Vegetable (garden . . 128
Vegetable Growers'
Association — 125, 147
Vegetable Remedies,
Ancient 154
Veg'ble8LittleKnown.233
Vegetables, Boiling . 42
Vegetables.Early Sp'g 81
\'egetables. Imp. in . . 134
Vegetables, Thinning 179
Ventilator Wi'd-tight 66
Verbenas, Rust on . . 109
Vineyard, The 166
Violets for Cut
Flower Trade 268
Virginia Fruit Notes. 78
W
Walki and Drives,
Improving ... 3
Walks, Arrajiging
Front Yard 99
Wallflower, Keeping
Over 324
Wall Flowers in Pota-
to Field 12
Waste Land Planting.176
Waste Places. Using. 13
Waste Pipes, CleaniDg203
Waste Lands for Fr't 259
Water Melon. T'o/oa. 3
Water Gas for Florists
17, 69
Water Lilies 5, 45
Water for Plants 45
Water Lilies, Muskrats 85
Water MelonCo8meticl94
WaterMelonsand^'ar.l77
Water,HowOftenShall 26
Watering Trees.. .. 152
Watermelon Sugar. . .241
Walnut Graft'g Eng-
lish on Black, 84,163,125
Wax Flower,Dwarf . . 13
Wild Flowers 14
Wild FlowerCluh,Ara.305
Wild Flowers of Ills-. 350
Willows and Poplar.. 110
Windoic Case,toAtakeViO
Wind Breaks for Or'dl66
Wineberry, Japanese. 3C0
Winter Storage Pits. 22
WinterCare of Ground 83
Wintering Plants Out
Doors 37
Wintering Vegetables 65
Winter'gFlow'rPlants 3
Wis. Hort. Society. 1.56
Wis. Small Fruits in.. 255
Weather Plant.. .. 192
IVeed Destruction . . 208
Weeds in Lawn. .... 236
Weeds on Paths 266
Weeds, Penalty for. 165
Weeds, Fightmg.. ... 337
Weeds, Seeds of 25
Weigelas, One of
Newer 236
Western N.Y Growers
99, 14.3, 2U
W.N.Y.Hort. Society. 369
Wood Ashes,20,l 10,189,346
Wood,Non-inflamable 18
Worms, Lime for... 267
Zanzibar Balsam. 28, 53
Zebra Grass 185
Zinc in Evap. Apples. 185
October, 1S89.
POPULAR GARDENING
AND FRUIT GROWING.
^OLTJn^^E 'V.
Autumn Time.
The MUfc-weed pods are tossing
Their flosses lu the air.
And busy spiders spinning
Their cobwebs everjTvhere.
The Pear-tree leaves are turning
To burnished bronze and gold ;
And on their b*)ughs the black-birds
Are growing overbold.
Thy sby. lilce any Violet
In balmy sweetness blows,
And veiled in haze, the sun shines
As rosy as a Rose.
Evaie^n Stein.
W HEN THE ground is too wet for other work the
Plantains, at least, can be pulled from the lawn.
Something besides Money. Mr. Fish of Eng-
land recently said that if he had not accumulated
wealth in gardening, he at least had received
his pay in beauty.
Death of Henry M. Long. .\t Williamsville,
near Buffalo, X. Y., on September 10th in his tor-
ty-eisrhth year. The deceased was the oldest
brother of the conductor of this journal.
The Potato crop seems to have more than its
usual number of enemies to contend with this
year. In some localities the millipeds or thou-
sand-legged worms are said to helji blight, rot,
flea beetles, and potato bugs in the destruction
of the crop.
I'NCLE Sam's seed shop sHH flourishes, but
Secretary Rusk has put himself on record favor-
ing the transfer of the business from the Depart-
ment to the various Hatch Experiment Stations.
What excuse is there for its existence, anyhow?
This disgrace and absurdity should be wiped out.
Visions of Deliciocs Apricots are before us
when we hear of the Shense introduced by Prof-
Budd from the pro\ince of Shense in China. It
has long been the height of ambition of many
fruit growers to be able to produce fine Apricots.
Our own attempts, heretofore, have always re-
sulted in dead failure. Perhaps the newer " Rus-
sians," and still more the Chinese ' Shense" will
at last lead us to success.
The Editors are at LaSalle. All the editor-
ial work on Putmlar Gardening and Pruit Grou-
ing is done on the Experiment Farm of this jour-
nal and which is located at La Salle, Niagara Co.,
N. v., 17 miles from Buffalo. We desire to im-
press this fact so that our friends who send sam-
ples of fruits or anything else for editorial in-
spection will forward them directly to La Salle,
and not to the Buffalo office. By so doing such
things win usually reach the right persons from
one to two days earlier than otherwise, to say
nothing of the trouble to the editors of carrying
or shipping them 17 miles extra, on such days as
they go to Buffalo.
Mr. Wm. Falconer Talks About the
Florists' Convention and the
City of Buffalo.
Some years ago John Thorpe took it into
his head that a Society of American Florists
would be a mighty nice thing to get up, and
he got it up. I don't think any other man
in America could have gotten it up. This
was five years ago.
^^'hiIe it is a society of commercial florists,
any one interested in horticulture is wel-
come to .ioin it. From the very first it was
an immense success. Florists from every
State in the Unionbelong toit, and weknow
no difference between Canada and the
United States.
Once a year, in August, we meet in con-
vention in some important city: first it was
In Cincinnati, then Philadelphia, and
Chicago and Xew York, and this year in
Buffalo. These conventions are very profit-
able to the florists. Papers on vital topics
are read and discussed, business matters in-
vestigated, and every thing likely to be of
interest to the florist is considered. We
meet old acquaintances and form new ones;
everybody gets to know everybody, and we
become a brotherly gathering. We get new
ideas from one another and learn and form
the fashions, for there are fashions among
flowers as among frocks and bonnets. We
tell all we know ourselves and pump our
neighbors like a newspaper reporter. Kverj'
new wrinkle in greenhouse building or
heating is laid before us, every new method
of cultivation is explained, and we are told
of every new Rose, Carnation or Palm that
is worth growing, and of every plant that is
a humbug, and among men frauds and
unprincipled characters receive unstinted
e.xecration. This society is a power in the
land, its countenance is courted by every
well meaning florist, and its light is the
terror of every unprincipled one. It is the
national guardian of the people who buy
plants or flowers. If you buy a few plants
of a florist in your town and he cheats you,
you may get some satisfaction, but if you
send to a fiorlst a thousand miles away for
some plants and he cheats you, how can
you get satisfaction? By submitting the
facts to this society. If it finds the florist
guilty of fraudulent dealings, they'll warn
him, were he strong as Samson or rich as
Cr(Bsus, but it the wrong is on the other side
and the customer is guilty of tricking or
unfair dealing then this society won't spare
him. Readers of Popi^'lar Gardening you
should be proud of such a society.
As Popular Gardening is published in
Buffalo, perhaps some of your distant read-
ers would like to know what kind of a place
it is horticulturally, and how it strikes a
stranger;
Buffalo is an immense city, on the edge
of Lake Erie, with wide streets and substan-
tial buildings, and an air of wealth and
solidity everywhere apparent. It has 2.50,(X)0
inhabitants.
The people are as nice folk as one can
meet, homey and hospitable, and evidently
only happy when making other folks happy.
Their parks are their great pride, and
truly they have good cause to be proud of
them, for they are extensive, well kept and
well planted, and good examples of broad
landscape gardening. The sheep grazing
on the expansive lawns impose a peaceful,
rural pastoral effect. A large sheet of water
is mademuchof and with studied excellence.
Extensive plantations of shrubbery occur in
the neighborhood of the water, and the
variety is in proportion to the quantity.
Wm. McMillan is the Superintendent of
Parks. He is a Scotchman from Hairn, an
enthusiast and a man of honor, and there is
no man in Buffalo to-day, not even the
Mayor, more respected than Jlr. McMillan.
The absence of any display of .summer
flowers in the parks was strikingly apparent.
No provision has been madeforthem. There
are no greenhouses in which to raise them.
This is in accordance with Mr. McMillan's
taste and the ideas of our most aesthetic and
cultured landscape architects. But I have
an intense love for flowers, I missed my pets
and I yearned for them.
Well, couldn't they be tised advantage-
ously? I think so. I know of no good reason
why we shouldn't have an abundant display
of flowers, and that too without interfering
in the least with the grandeur of the park.
I would not ask for mosaic patterns, but 1
think a smaU portion of the park, in the
vicinity of the most frequented part, should
be laid out' as a flower garden. Give us
Roses and Hollyhocks. Cannas and Caladi-
ums, noble grasses in variety, Palms and
Ferns in shady places, Heliotropes and
Tuberoses to scent the air, and hundreds
more; and in spring never forget the Snow-
drops and Crocuses, Daffodils, Hyacinths
and Tulips, and the Pansies and Polyan-
thuses and Forget-me-nots, likewise the
Bloodroot, .Spring Adonis, Rock Cress, Col-
umbines, Oriental Poppies, Psonias and
others. Be what they may, give us flowers,
and oceans of them.
POPULAR GARDENING.
October,
A PUBLIC PARK is the people's garden— the
garden of every human being in the City,
the people pay for it, and the people have
the right to dictate what shall be grown in
it. The people of Buffalo don't pay for hav-
ing these flowers in their park, hence we
conclude they don't want them. These
things cost high but they are well worth
the money. They draw the people to the
park— the poor people, and tens of thousands
who give no heed to landscape pictures, be-
come ecstatic over flowers, and find in them
both recreation and religion. But if you
\vill call these landscapes education, then
Gardening, "can never forget it. With a
clean trunk, straight as a column, for forty
or fifty feet, surmounted by a firm, ample
summit of rich green foliage, it is, in our
estimation, decidedly the most stately tree
in North America. When standing alone,
and encouraged in its lateral growth, it
will indeed often produce a lower head, but
its tendency is to rise, and it only exhibits
itself in all its stateliness and majesty
when, supported on such a noble columnar
trunk, it towers far above the heads of its
neighbors of the park or forest. Even when
at its loftiest elevation, its large blossoms
v'l'.^
"^
^■■#'Av
Front W(i,lh and Lawn at Woodhajihs be-
fore being Improved.
please give us both education and religion,
you have room for both, and we need both.
The Trees. In some parts of the city the
soil is loamy and good, but in most parts it
is either hard brick clay or covered with a
thin shell of soil. In the loamy land the
trees prosper, but in the rock or clay they
do not thrive very well. Now if a tree is
worth planting at all it is worth planting
well and taking good care of afterwards,
for there is more pleasure in one thrifty,
happy tree than in fifty starving, sickly
scrubs. Every starving wretch of a tree is
a standing monument of shame to its owner.
Then begin right. In preparing for planting
dig out the tree holes six, eight or ten feet
wide and two to three feet deep, according
to kind of tree to be planted, remove the
rock or clay and replace with good soil.
This will cost a good deal but it is necessary,
and if one doesn't wish to incur this expense
and trouble he should not plant the trees,
for he is unworthy of the trees.
In the subukbax residence streets the
fences between lots, also between the lots
and the streets, have been removed and
the green lawns are spread along the sides
of the streets from end to end, giving them
a pretty, pleasing, gardenesque appearance.
But no flowers and no evergreens. Why?
Because the flower beds would be a field of
temptation to many a passer-by, and a de-
lightful play ground for cats and dogs; and
every dog that passes along the street will
rest against an Evergreen, and the choicer
and prettier the Evergreen the better it
seems to attract the dog's attention.
The Tulip Tree for Lawn or Park.
Why is it that the magnificent, stately
Lidriodendron tulipifera, commonly called
Whitewood, Yellow Poplar, or Tulip Poplar,
is not more frequently met with on our
lawns and in our parks and avenues?
"Whoever has once seen the Tulip tree in
a situation where the soil is favorable to its
growth," says Mr. Downing, in Landscape
Front Walk and Laxon at Woodban'ks after intro-
ducing Curvea and new Plantinys.
which from their form one of our poets has
likened to the chalice,
Through the radiant maze.
The tulip tree
Its golden chalice triumphantly displays.
—Pickering.
jut out from the tufty canopy in the month
of .June, and glows in richness and beauty.
While the tree is less than a foot in diam-
eter, the stem is extremely smooth, and it
has almost always a refined appearance.
For a lawn or park, we conceive the Tulip
tree eminently adapted : its tall, upright
stem and handsome summit contrasting
nobly with the spreading forms of most
deciduous trees. No tree of the same
grandeur and magnitude is so truly beauti-
ful and graceful in every portion of its
trunk and branches. Where there is a taste
for avenues, the Tulip tree ought by all
means to be employed, as it makes a most
magnificent over-arching canopy of verdure
supported on trunks almost architectural in
their symmetry."
The Tulip tree is greatly valued for its
lumber. The wood is excellent for cabinet
work, ceiling, floors, and inside flnishiug,
but does not endure well in the open air
unless protected by paint. Our bee-keepers
value the tree as a honey producer, and the
sweet nectar might often be gathered out of
the great Tulip-like flowers by teaspoonfuls,
but this honey, although good for bees, is
by no means of the quality that would suit
a fastidious taste. The flowers are large,
greenish-yellow, foliage rich and glossy,
somewhat square, truncated. Bark of wood
and branches is bitter and aromatic, some-
times used in medical practice.
The tree is readily propagated from seed.
which should be sown in a fine rich mold,
in a cool, shady place. If planted in
autumn as soon as seeds are ripe, they will
germinate the next spring; if sown in
spring, they often fail to germinate until
spring following. Although the tree has
the reputation of being diflScult to trans-
plant, it is no more so than any of the nut
trees, and when grown in nursery, and
occasionally transplanted, it can be handled
as easily as our common fruit trees.
Notes from the Popular Gardening
Grounds at La Salle-on-the-
Niagara.
SlraigM Lina< versus Curves. By the annexed
engravings is shown how in improving the
grounds at '" Woodbanks " we introduced grace-
ful curves in the front walk and drive, and
irregularity in the planting where there was in
these before a preponderance of straight lines
This was done in accordance with natural prin-
"ciples of arrangement, for as nature In her most
pleasing landscape gives us no straight or formal
lines, why should we employ them.
In the present case not only was the walk from
the front door to the bridge, which gives access
to the highway opposite, straight, but the bridge
also was on the same line. Together there was a
straight course of some 12 rods in length and de-
cidedly objectionable to good appearance. By
throwing a slight curve into the walk, extend-
ing the lawn, and planting a few Evergreens
in its former course, we worked a marked im-
provement in this portion of the grounds. In
the drive something similar was done with re-
sults quite as satisfactory. Where preriously as
seen in the left hand engraving the drive
to the stable was parallel with the north line
of the house, thus giving emphasis to the
lines of the building, our improvement called
for carrying this drive a half further away from
the house than formerly, thus admitting of a
graceful curve throughout its course. This,
however, was not the only gain. By changing
the drive the lawn was here widened, with
the effect of giring a broader setting to the house,
where before there was a suggestion of cramjied-
ness. Room was thus also secured tor introduc-
ing several clumps of shrubs and some individual
specimens trees with excellent effect for pro-
moting a balance in the embellishing features.
This widening outlprocess, it will be observed,
favorably effected the yard to the front of the
house also.
With having thus made slight changes in the
course of the passage ways there came the op-
portunity for introducing irregular clumps of
trees and shrubs about the home which was
gladly improved. Together the effect for the
better has been so great as to call forth favorable
comments from all who have visited the place,
both before and after the improvements. More-
over, the cost of these changes was very small.
We have no hesitation in saying that in the eyes
of the average judge of real estate values they
have enhanced the worth of the ground twenty
fold beyond the actual outlay in this direction.
It is a point worthj- the attention of every prop-
ei-ty owner, and especially every gardener. So
improve your surroundings by judiciousarrange-
ment of the features of the place, and by plant-
ing that you will not only derive increased pleas-
ure from the same, but that there will be a
marked increase in the value of your land out of
all proportion to the cost. It can he done.
Lima Beans. We have freijucntly been com-
plimented upiin the attractive, really ornamental
appearance of Lima Bean trellis as described and
illustrated in a former number. The season has
been a rather cool one, but the dry weather not
being favorable t« late growth, blooming and
fruit setting, there are at present no immature
pods left on the vines; the whole crop has been
utilized. Of coui-sc some of the tirst pods, those
nearest the ground, were left to ripen, and are
now being gathered for seed. We lUways like to
depend on a home selection of Bean and similar
seeds rather than on purchased supply. We do
this in especial consideration of the fact that
plenty of seed should be used in order to make
sure of a full stand and a full crop. There are so
many enemies of young Lima Bean plants— cut
worms, cold rains, gi-ubs, etc.,— that we should
plant quite a number of seeds for each jilant
which we expect and desire to sec remain. It is
easy enough to pull some uj) if there arc too
many; but it is annoying to have gaps in the
rows. We had planted what we thought a great
sufficiency of seed, and the plants came up ijuite
thickly, but so many came to grief before they
made much growth, that probably we would
have had twice the yield if twice the number of
plants had remained in the row. This we mention
in order to urge our readers to select as many of
the best filled pods from the lower parts of the
vine, and of the nicest Beans as possible to ha\'e
1889.
POPULAR GARDENING.
oil hand noxt season for stHMi. The lilK'ral use of
sectl is one of thesafe-jruants <tf siieecss, aiitl it is
usually much cheaper to g^ather selected seed
from your own vines than tt> buy.
Hetuhfiinn's liuiih Lima. Well, if weeouid have
only one, either the old runnint^ sort or the new
bush \'ariety, we would not hesitate an instance
in our choice. And this choice would not lull
upon the Hush Lima either. And yet this latter
is not without value, especially for the home
grower. It is a number of days earlier tluui the
earliest of the Limas. It makes a neat, com-
pact and peeuliarly strong, stiff bush. It
blooms freely and sets well, and the pods being
close togrether in bunches or clustei"s,'it makes
easy picking. In quality it is as good as the
running Limas. All considered it fills a gap
very nicely, and the home grower will mosi
likely be pleased with it, even if it is small in
pod and IJcan, and perhaps somewhat mori'
tender than the pole sorts. We are gatherinD
quite a little seed, and shall i^iant it mon
largely ne.\t year.
Tine Fiiiits. We have to record a failure
audit may relieve our conscience to confess
it. While we have our speculations in regflr<i
to the causes, and think we will be able to de-
duct some valuable lessons from this experi-
ence (to be told later), we deplore the fact, not
alone because we are very fond of Melons,
especially when they are so deUciously fine
as Emerald (Jem among the Musk sorts, and
Volga among the Water Melons; but still
more on account of the negative result of
our test. A few of the varieties named have"^'
managed to survive, and the superiority of
quality which we find indicated in the few
imperfect specimens of this year's crop, only
serves to make us long for the feasts we had of
them in ycai-s before. We shall again plant
Emerald Gem and Volga, and with as much con-
fidence as ever. Our illustration gives cross
section of a fair specimen of the Volga, which
is a favorite with us. The seeds are small,
but much more easily removed from the flesh,
and the latter crisp, melting, sweet and delicious.
What an insipid, coarse, tough thing is the aver-
age Water Melon bought at the fruit stores when
compared with a well-ripened Volga fresh from
the garden.
Of Squashes we also planted quite an assort-
ment of varieties without being able to show
better results than in Melons. We may say,
however, that the little Red China Squash, which
we here illustrate, pleases us very much, espec-
ially for its attractive color and productiveness;
but for general uses it will take something very
different from it to crowd out such sorts as Hub-
bard, Pike's Peak, etc.
The general failure of vine fruits this season is
a serious blow to many people in this vicinity
who make a buiness of raising Pickles for market.
One of our nearest neighbors planted two acres,
and in spite of all pains and reijeated re-plantings
Wintering Flowering Plants.
At the time when the lirst fall frosts.arrive,
many whose yards are yet gay "with Gera-
iiiiiins anil other tender tlowering plants,
see no way to carry ii nood stock of tlie.se
plants through winter, and thus preserve
them for another year's service. Regret-
fully, but resignedly, their favorites are
given up to die. A correspondent of; New
York Tribune rcciiioiuends a place (which
ing water in the pit to render the air racist
by the steam it gives off. In a pit of this
size we do not wish to winter many large
plants, and so we take slips of Geranium
and other large plants, and late in the
season put them in four inch pots.
THE RED CHINA SQUASH.
could not succeed in raising Pickles enough to
supply his own table, let alone to sell. Fortun-
ately sueh a fatal season does not occur so very
frequently. We may do better another vear.
Peppers Riilting. Not a single perfect speci-
men of Kuby King and Golden Upright Pepper on
our vines this season. What's the matter with
the Peppers? The disease begins at the blossom
end and works its way toward the stem end. At
the same time Procopp's Giant, Celestial and Hy-
brids, and our unnamed long sweet sort are en-
tirely free from disease. We cannot account
for these phenomena.
THE VOLGA WATERMELON.
he has used for 10 years) for such cases,
where houses cannot conveniently be kept
warm enough to carry plants through the
winter, or where a large family and small
rooms make it impractical to try to keep
them. Undoubtedly many amateurs could
enjoy keeping plants by arranging a pit
similar to the one described as follows:
Our dining room is over the cellar, and
has a south window. Immediately under
this window I made an e.xcavation 4? ,3 feet
wide, 9 feet long and as deep as the cellar
lacking 3 feet. The cellar window was
taken out and the space enlarged so that a
small door was hung, which enables us to
enter our pit from the cellar without dis-
turbing the sash. Our pit is boarded up
but if making another I would lay a brick
wall, as the boards rot and must be renewed
in a few years. We use three sash to cover
it, and the upper end is placed against the
house as high as possible and not to inter-
fere with the dining room window. To
make this pit frost-proof we place a frame
of inch boards 3 feet distant from it on all
sides, except next the house, and each fall
bring a load of fresh sawdust and fill this
space. On cold nights an old carpet is spread
over the glass, and whenever mercury is
liable to go to zero, or below, we set a com-
mon kerosene lamp In the pit. For several
years we kept an old iron kettle in it, and on
cold night would carry down a peck or so
of live coals just before going to bed. This
was objectionable as coals not only gave off
gas, and a dust from the ashes settled on
the plants, but the heat was irregular ; for
when first put in the coals would raise the
Itemperature too high, and then before
morning they would die, and in very cold
weather, 'mercury by morning would be
near freezing point.
The lamp will keep a uniform temper-
ature, and for a pit the size of mine ( 4i< by
9 feet), a single lamp will suffice, even with
a zero temperature outside. We have had
several nights with mercury from 8 to 14
degrees below zero, and then we put in a
second lamp. We do not try to keep flowers
blooming during the coldest weather, btit
in February and March they can be pushed
forward, and thus Daisies, Pansies, Violets,
Hyacinths and other hardy bloomers are
made to contribute flowers in abundance.
It is well occasionally to set a kettle of boil-
Strawberries from Pot Layers.
FETEK HENDERSON.
In your September issue, M. B. Faxon
says that " The claim that Strawberries
grown by this method will produce a full
crop the next season after planting should
be taken with a grain of allowance." It
is evident that Mr. Faxon never gave this
system a fair trial, or he surely never
would have said so. That he is not famil-
iar with the process is evident when he
says that: "Nearly all growers use a
mixture in potting which becomes as
hard as a cobble stone." Allow me to
say that any grower that knows his busi-
ness, simply uses the soil in which the
Strawberries are growing; a competent
workman will layer in pots two thousand
plants in a day, if he went to the more
than useless trouble of preparing the soil,
he would not put down half that number.
We have adopted and recommended to
our patrons the pot-layer system for
Strawberries for over twenty years, and
with such satisfactory restilts that from
a beginning of a few thousand a year,
our sales of pot-grown Strawberry plants
now reach over a quarter of a mUlion plants
annually. But in this, like many other
garden operations, a few minor details are
essential to success.
We begin placing the layers in 2 inch pots
here about the end of June, or as soon as
the fruit has been gathered; the soil is soft-
ened with a trowel, and the flower pots
filled with soil is sunk to the surface level,
the joint of the Strawberry layer is placed
in the center of the pot and kept in place by
a small stone. This stone besides keeping
the layer in place marks where the pot has
been sunk so that when the plants have be-
come rooted, they can be seen to be taken
up. In ordinary weather, plants layered
will be rooted sufficiently to be taken up in
about twelve days. Men new to business
generally lift them up direct from the ground
and ship them in that condition, and as a
consequence, they are almost certain to be
unsatisfactory, for the layer being just de-
tached from the parent stem, in this state
is but little better than an ordinary layer.
What should always be done is to lift the
layers up, place the pots closely together,
water and shade for a few days, when the
plants will have filled the pots with roots.
In this condition, they can be shipped safely
to be three days in transit, and if properly
planted, not one plant in five hundred need
be lost. We have yearly planted an acre of
Strawberry plants from pot-grown layers in
this way for upwards of twenty years, and
never yet have failed to obtain as much
weight of fruit per plant in nine or ten
months (that is plants set from pot-layers in
August or September, fruiting in .June of
next year) as from plants that were one year
older set from ordinary layers.
We only grow these Strawberries for our
own use and to obtain stock from which to get
pot-layers, but if we grew Strawberries for
the fruit for sale, we would adopt no other
method !is the large berries obtained from
these young nine or ten months old plants
far surpasses that from older plantations.
Where the pot-layer system has failed has
been in cases where the operator was inex-
perienced in handling plants, few fruit grow-
ers have such experience as we too well
know, for when we have occasion to order
sorts that we happen to run short of, in
most cases, the plants received come in mis-
erable condition, mainly for the reason that
POPULAR GARDENING.
October,
I have before referred to, that the layer is
cut direct from the parent stem and shipped
without first being nursed for a few days
sufficiently rooted.
The Tariff and Horticulture.
The florists in the Buffalo Convention
disposed of the question of " dtity on bulbs"
in short order. The knotty point was dis-
cussed solely from a business standpoint,
leaving the political aspects entirely out of
consideration.
It must be said, however, that the matter
in this case was rather simple. It came to
light (1) that the duty on bulbs makes them
dearer and restricts their sale; (2) that bulbs,
according to the statement of I>ong Island
bulb growers, are grown in this country
cheaper than they can be imported. The in-
terests of the great body of florists, there-
fore, demand reduction or abolition of the
bulb duty, and the society decided by vote
to use its influence in behalf of such reduc-
tion or abolition.
The question of duty on fruits is very
much more complicated, and it is not easily
determined just to what extent the impor-
tation of tropical fruib?, especially of Ba-
nanas (which recently has assumed such
large proportions), influences the demand
for and price of home grown fruits. It
should be approached with calmness, and
considered in all its phases.
In a general way we as a nation doubtless
do not make use of fruits as freely as we
should and as would be in the interest of
true civilization. To what extent the free
importation and cheapness of Bananas is
antagonistic to the free consumption of
domestic fruits, especially Strawberries, and
to what extent it is merely an educationary
factor in gradually leading us to that de-
sirable condition when people cease to look
upon fruits as a luxury, and accept them as
food for daily consumption, is yet a debatable
question. For many persons Bananas more
nearly take the place of bread than of fruit,
and the more freely they are used, the less
inclined are the eaters to go without the
pleasant acids found in our berries.
Some facts may be recognized as estab-
lished in the case of Bananas. First, they
are wholly unlike any fruits grown on
American soil; second, they cannot be grown
in appreciable quantities in America, hence
there can be no such thing as protection for
Banana culture; third, the people— the Ba-
nana eaters themselves— have learned to
like them greatly. Whether to raise the
price of Bananas again to the high figure
that it was 20 years ago, would simply put
a check to their free use, and correspond-
ingly increase the use of the acid small
fruits, is a difficult point to decide, and the
whole matter must be considered in a cau-
tious way.
Somewhat simpler perhaps is the question
so far as Oranges are concerned. It seems
that California, Florida and Louisiana could
after a while furnish us with all the Oranges
that Americans might possibly use, and if
this is the case, and the home grown article
being as good as the imported one, un-
doubtedly a prohibitive tax levied on foreign
Oranges would be beneficial to American
growers.
Notes from my Conservatory.
W. F. LAKE.
In these days there is hardly an excuse
for a lover of flowers being without a fair
abundance of them in winter, and besides
having a lot of small plants propagated as
his stocks affords opportunity, to set out of
doors in the spring. There are very few
families who do not keep some kind of fire,
in at least one room during the whole night
in wniter, so that the temperature is always
above freezing point. Though one may not
burn coal, the plants will thrive equally as
well, there being no gases to escape which
are of more damage than the Irregular heat
coming from the wood fire.
The first winter flowers I ever had were
grown under difficulties. It was in an old
stone house with the deep recess windows,
and the cold could be felt coming in every
small crack. I had plenty of flowers, the
plants being first prepared in the usual way
for winter blooming by keeping buds off'
in the summer, and encouraging stocky
growth, and every night during the coldest
part of winter, they came out of these win-
dows to be set on a table in the middle of
the room. 2.50 pots to handle every night
and morning, was quite a task; yet the
pleasure derived from them more than bal-
anced the account. On mild nights, they
would survive the cold with the shades being
drawn, and papers slipped between the pots
and the walls. I had Callas, Carnations,
Cinerarias, Heliotrope, Primroses, Hya-
cinths, and a number of old favorites in
flower all the winter. This was a beginning.
The next winter I had a conservatory, and
after this, a real greenhouse of good size.
The conservatory was made by putting
sashes in the front and sides of one half of a
veranda extending completely across the
eastern front of the house, and a door open-
ing into it from the sitting room. The ques-
tion of keeping it warm first troubled me,
but I determined that the stove at the ex-
treme end of the room would be enough ex-
cepting in some very cold nights, and a trial
would soon show. In having the glass put
in. I had some tins bent and so puttied in
that the water collecting on each sash would
run down the middle into a saucer, thus
saving the fioor from becoming so unpleas-
ant by the water collecting, as it is sure to
do more or less from the windows. Strong
brackets were put up' for three shelves
which with using the floor for plants, really
gave me four.
These shelves were eighteen inches wide.
At first it would seem they are far to wide,
there being no glass on the top of the con-
servatoi-y, and a shelf directly above the
other, but I found by arranging the plants
with care, putting those requiring most
light outward, and the shade loving kinds
back of them, they got enough sunlight
from the sides and through the open spaces
to make them thrive well indeed. This con-
servatory cost more than would needs be in
most cases on account of its being in such
prominent place, and opening off from a
main room therefore had to be more elabor-
ate. 1 .saw one which held 1000 plants in
pots of different sizes, costing only ■*1.5.00 for
sashes, the veranda having been made at
the time the house was built the work on
the conservatory being done in the family.
Of course it was plain,but just as convenient,
and covered by plants.
Mine has held more than 2,000 pots every
winter,of course including the small thtimbs
in which were cuttings just rooted, and the
number of blooms produced seemed to be a
marvel to most people. This was due to
the care in the choosing of the better varie-
ties, those of the freest bloom and best ha-
bit. I had a collection of something like
1.50 Geraniums culled from a large number
purchased each season from the florists'
catalogues, many of which were good for
nothing in the house but were remarkably
good bedders. Such were kept in the cellar
during winter and planted again in spring.
The majority in house were kept in four
and five inch pots, with about 300 in all,
placed next to the glass on all but the top
shelves, which were too hot for Geraniums,
causing the buds to blast. I believe it would
be safe to say that hardly a plant of these
Geraniums were out of bloom during the
winter, and most of them had three or more
clusters at once. Being arranged with an
eye to color; allowed to grow toward the
glass without turning, and so prolific, a
good show from the street was the result.
At some future time perhaps I will give a
complete list, large enough for any amateur,
of the best blooming kinds for house culture.
The top south shelf is occupied with Cacti
mostly. A large pot of Hoya takes up far
more than its share of glass room, while the
vine is covering the ceiling. I think it will
be as thrifty when moved up higher so that
the glass room may be used by something
requiring the sun. This plant which is a
joy during the spring and summer months,
sometimes fills up an occasional cluster
during winter, as if jealous of the free bloom
of its stirrounding neighbors. A few Koses
bloom here fairly well, but are somewhat
troubled with red spider, because of heat
and dryness. Cyclamen, Primroses, Bego-
nias, Bulbs and a large general collection
are interspersed over the rest of the space,
allowing those requiring most light the pre-
ference as to position, filling in with the less
particular ones.
A half dozen Palms thrive very well on
the floor in spite of the brushing of peoples'
clothes when examining the other plants.
We have curtains draped between the room
and conservatory, which are easily let down
and closed in case of too much heat when
the sun is shining which often rai.ses the
temperature for a couple of hours during
the middle of the day to 85° or even to !W.
Water is kept constantly on the stove, and
saucers of it are set around between the
pots, sponges filled and put between where
there is space. The red spider does not
trouble much, and when filling in the fall,
I never allow a plant to go in which has an
Insect of any kind if I know its so very
little trouble is experienced in this direction.
I think if I had it to bxiild again, I would
have the floor taken out entirely, letting
the sash run to the ground with either a
ground or brick floor, then have steps down
from the main room. With this, no care
would have to be taken as to the amount of
water to be used for spraying, and still
more moisture be in the air. If it proved
too cold in the worst weather, a lamp or
two could be left burning at night on the
floor which would give a considerable heat.
A place like this is very much appreciated
in cold winter, and one often notes visitors
taking their book or work, and sitting down
where it is summer in preference to any
other place, for veritably here is summer in
in the dead of winter.
COMMENTS BY READERS.
A di'j3artm*'nt to which all are invited to send notes of
ej'perience n»rf observation concerning topics that re-
cenilu hai'e been treated on in this Journal. Many
suctl contributions monthly are tcelcome.
Our National Flower. The questiim. which
shall it be, having been submitted to the people
for their decision, it behooves such of us as shall
voice our opinion to do so understandingly.
not from caprice nor sentiment, not in accord-
ance with "dame fashion's " whim, nor even to
give precedence to our especial favorite, unless
after candid consideration it is found to possess
the good qualities essential in our national em-
blem. Other nations have been guided in their
choice by circumstances, which caused patriotic
sentiment to point to some certain plant as the
one to be honored, but we are, or should be,
guided by judgment and a realizing sense of " the
eternal fitness of things." Let our national
flower be a native of our own country, if such a
one can be found meeting all the requirements.
It should lie a flower, not a weed, grain nor for-
age crop. Our national flower should be capable
of being used appropriately upon all occasions
when patiiotic sentiment should be e.vpresscd.
When we come to prepare our Nation's dead for
burial, or to decorate their final resting place,
could we with due respect employ the coarse
Sunflower, the iU-smelling Golden Rod or the
useful Indian Corn '/■ And who would not tire of
IS89.
POPULAR GARDENING.
an ciiilUss repetition iif iiiitimml Hnw er (keoia-
tions, whieh weiv ineiiinible of \ iii-iiitioii, siivc in
design '! The tlowei- of the repiiblie should l>e
dainty enoiitrli to ornament the mansion, ami not
too delieate for the gai-den of the workinjiman, so
that rieh ami luior, ehildrcn and aihilts, maj vie
with eaili other in eultivatinj; the " emblem of
the nation." A recent numlx'r of PopuiuiH
(iAHiiKNiNC. contiiined an artiele which coin-
cided with ray views of the subject, and named
the Phlox as a vilant eminently suited to lie our
national Hower. It is a refined plant with deli-
eate flowers, in many lively colm-s and
shades, from purest white, with which to .
deck the bride, or array the silent forms
of our deail, to the most brilliant hues,
suitt-d to fe.stal occasions. Another point
in favor of the Phlox is its season of
bloom, some variety of which is in its
trlory si.x mtmths or more of the year,
even in this latitude, and how much the
skill of the florist might prolong the
sea.son. I am not prepared tosa.v. Further-
more, it is a native Americau. I am very
much surprised to find that some of our
most noted people have voted for the
Golden Kod, and I can but think that
they must have done so. without con-
sidering the question as carefully as its
importance deserves. Some one has said
that it will be something to tie proud of
all our lives, that we helped to choose
the national flower: so it will, provided
we help t<i make a wise choice, other-
wise it will be a cause for regret. The
choice of a floral emblem for a nation
such as ours, is not a thing to be lightl.v 5^
done, but with careful consideration
should the selection be made, that we
may not hold ourselves up to the ridicule
of our fellow nations, but having their
examples l>efore us, try at least to equal, if not
excel them in the wisdom of our choice.
Water Lilies. There is no possible excuse
for any one whose home garden bordei-s upon
lake, pond or stream, if they do not have at least
a few of the beautiful and fragrant Pond Lilies,
and whether they have these natural advantages
or not, they still may have a very few, provided
they love them wisely. In childhood I read glow-
ing descriptions of their beauty and delicious
fragrance; later I saw a waxen representation
of one; and stilllatercaught a glimpse of a lovely
bunch of real live Water Lilies. All these occur-
rences served to increase my desire to have qne
for my very own, and at last I got some roots,
but only one made a feeble growth the first year
and stronger each succeeding year as I became
better acquainted with its requirements, and
gave it better advantages for developing. Last
year it was in a two quart stone jar, set in a water j
hole, the water was a little too cold and its
growth was smellier and later than it should have
been. It bloomed in September. This year I
transferred the root to a two gallon stone jar,
filling it nearly full of leaf mold and sand, and
set it in a dilapidated wash tub sunk into the bed
of a tiny rivulet that runs near the house, and
which nearly dries up during the heat of sum-
mer. Here it has done finely, and to-day, (Aug.
Lst.l it has upon it 20 leaves and a plump bud,
and all the care it has required has been when
the down pours of rain have come, to remove the
jar from the tub and set it upon the bank until
the foaming torrent should once more become
the trickling rill, and then to return it to its
miniature lake. During winter it only requires
that the jar containing the root be set in a pit or
cellar free from frost.— Efder's Wife.
Spbavlng With London Purple. I have
been injured to the extent of a good many dollars
by the ad\ice published in the papers this
spring to spray fruit trees with a London purple
solution as a remedy for curculio and codling
moth. I followed the directions given, using the
London purple at the rate of one pound tti iiO
gallons of water, and It nearly ruined the foliage
and entire crop of fruit on every tree it was put
on, and in some instances nearly killed the trees.
I used it on Apples, Peaches and Plums. Here-
tofore I have used Paris green, and never had it
injure the foliage. I think papers should t>e very
careful in publishing untested remedies, as they
may do a vast amount of injury thereby.— £. P.
Cuinminy.'S.
Berries in Central Kansas. In July num-
ber a correspondent states that he has found It
impossible to raise Raspberries successfully in
Central Kansas. We are further east, but during
the past five seasons have not entirely failed
with HasplH^rries, cither black or red, except in
l.'*,'<7. We seem to be more successful than other
fruit growers here, as will be seen by the prices |
we obtained, viz.: 1.1 t<i 2"_')^ cents per quart for
black, from liiS;, to IHI cents for red. Wc raise
the Uregg for lilack. The Hi-st two sciusons
raised Cuthtxirt, and the last two Shaffer for red.
Our location and soil are rather favorable, and
our berries arc raised on a soil of only moderate
fertilit.v, sloping up from the river bottom to the
limestone bluff. We have been troubled here
with rot and mildew on our Grapes this year,
THE BRANCHING BROCCOLI, A NtW HAC£.
baring had 'over five Inches more rain than the
average of the la.st 21 yeai-s in eastern Kansas.
Brant, Black Defiance, El Dorado, Triumiih and
Centennial have rotted badly: LadyWashington,
Vergennes, Agawam and Hartford a little, while
Concord, Catawba, Delaware, Faith, Flster and
Pougbkeepsie, Moore's E.irly and Pocklington
have practically escaped so far. Moore's Early,
Faith and Hartford riiwned first, and were mar-
keted as early as Aug. .5th. Delaware, Concord
and Pougbkeepsie about a week behind.— .Sufi.
Fruits for Nebraska. While I admire Mr.
Powell's writings, and have no doubt that he is a
careful obser\er, and would be a safe guide for
an orchardist in New York, he is certainly mis-
taken in recommending the varieties he does for
the western prairies, and any orchardist or nurse-
r>Tnan west of the Missouri river would say so.
The Fameuse Is about the only Apple in his list
that is endorsed for this longitude, and that is
not ranked first. While the varieties of the
European Plum and Sweet Cherries are uni-
formly successful, his list of Pears, Grapes and
small fruits are nearer right so far as they will
stand a winter temperature, sometimes going
below 34° with very little snow for protection.—
Cha». H. Manlcii. KanSiU.
Spoiling Simple Operations. This calls to
my mind another instance of the ignorance of
many people concerning the simplest require-
ments of plants. Calling at a friend's a month ago,
bis wife, replying to a query of mine, said she
could not have success with window plants; she
was sure she gave them good attention, but where
one branch gained another lost, and she rarely
was rewarded with a blossom. I made an exam-
ination and found the soil in the pots hard and
cracked. Its surface had not been stirred, prob-
ably, since the day it was put in the pot. I asked
the lady how often she watered the plants and
she replied, " Oh, about every day; the soil seems
to get dry so soon." I thought it was not sur-
prising that the soil in such condition should soon
get dry. Nor was T much surprised that the soil
was in such condition and that it was watered so
often. Very many amateur growers are guilty
of these mistakes. I got an old table knife and
loosened and fined the earth in the pots to a
depth of an inch and a half— the pots were from
six to eight inches deep. It was heroic treatment,
but the only thing to do. I instructed my friend
to keep the soil to the depth of an inch loose and
fine, and to water only when this loose soil had
become quite dry— say once every three to four
days when the weather was dry and hot, and
once a week when the atmosphere was cool and
moist; and when she did water the plants to do
the work thoroughly— to saturate the sou. I met
her this morning and the first thing she said was.
"<)h, you should stv those plants. I've followed
your instructions and the plant* have grown
more during the last month than they had grown
during the six months before. E\ery plant is
thrifty." The chief ad\antagc in keeping the
surface soil loose ami tine is in regulating the
moisture supply. This stops the capillary water
just below the surface, henceitisnot evaporated
anil wasted. Hence less waterings are required;
and as the air is also admitted, sowing and pud-
dling are avoided. The soil is kept sweet and
lively; wholesome and generous to the plants. —
Jo?in M. Stahl.
Burning Over Strawberry Beds. I
have seen some reference in your col-
umns or elsewhere to this subject. For
several years I have burned my .Straw-
berry beds over just as soon as possible
after berries are all picked, selecting a
time when the mulch of Straw is suffici-
ently dry, and when there is a brisk wind,
if possible, blowing lengthwise of the
matted rows. Then I go through be-
tween the rows two or three times with
a Planet Jr., cultivator, or its like,
loosening up the soil before it becomes dry
and hard; then after plants are started
enough to see them. I turn off a part of the
row on each side with a small steel turn-
ing plow with rolling coulter attached,
'earing about a foot in width of plants,
which can be readily cleaned out. after-
ward working down the back fuiTow
between the rows, against the row of
plants. Then you have loose mellow soil
next to the plants for them to throw out
runners upon and make a lot of vigor-
ous new ones along the edge of old
row. Occasionally I go through with
the one horse Harrow cultivator nar-
rowed down, to kill weeds and throw
runners around in place, so that by winter there
will be as clean and rigorous matted row as in
first season's setting. I have kept beds three and
four years in this way in good, clean, healthy
condition. Some in this section of the state are
losing acres of Strawberry beds by the new
"Strawberry root louse." Mine are free from
insects and blight, except "grub" occasionally
Vines green, vigorous and healthy— besides
have had some dishes of second crop in Septem-
ber, some of them as fine and large as berries in
June. With not too much mulch upon the
plants the fire does not destroy many plants, but
kills weeds, seeds, and insects, and has never
failed to be a success with me.— A . M. N.
A New Race of Broccoli.
Broccoli is perhaps not a very popular nor
generally cultivated vegetable; but we ven-
ture to say that nothing would tend to make
it more popular than to drop the foreign
sounding name Broccoli, and, hy common
consent call it Winter Cauliflower, unless it
be the introduction of the new branching
sort announced for next spring by English
papers. If we can grow it here to equal the
specimen sent by Messrs. Sutton & Sons of
Reading, England, to the office of Garden-
ing World, every gardener, we are sure, will
desire to have it in his garden.
The plant, a reduced picture of which we
here present, consisted of a strong central
OF main stem, together with ten strong
lateral branches originating from the prim-
ary one near the ground. Each of these
stems bore a head of " Winter Cauliflower,"
the central one being the largest, measuring
seven inches in diameter and as many in
thickness. Each of the ten laterals produced
a head from two to four inches in diameter;
but the lateral heads are later and grow
after the main hea<l is cut out. Smaller
branches, also bearing heads, start from the
secondary stems, and the plant if given a
good, rich, moist soil and plenty of space,
say four feet each way, may continue to
branch and bear heads in a truly wonderful
way. Cultivation and selection, it is
thought, will in time give the heads what is
somewhat wanting now — a more refined
appearance. Still we have a fine start here,
and this new race of " Winter Cauliflower,"
provided it answers the description, will be
heartily welcomed.
POPULAR GARDENING.
October,
Judge Miller's Fruit Notes.
The Neweu Stuawhehiiies. The great
numl)er that have come out within a few
years was enough to bewilder a novice, and
if you wished to get the best, there was but
one way, namely, to get them all; for each
one was claimed to be superior to all others.
Where is now the galaxy that loomed up?
Ijike the Meteor's beauty they soon van-
ished; yet a few remain to illuminate our
path. Among these I would name Uubach
No. ft, Belmont and Gandy.
The first named is with me almost fault-
less. It might be a little better in quality,
but it is (juite good. Some say too soft, but
I can pick it one day and ship it the next,
reaching its destination at 4 p. M. that day,
and in perfect order.
Belmont is a large, handsome, excellent
berry, in fact, to my taste one of the best.
Productive and moderately firm.
In Gandy we have the most reliable late
berry yet brought out. Plant very vigor-
ous, productive of the largest^sized berries,
of a handsome orange color, and of excellent
quality. I could ship it a thousand miles in
safety. Coming as it does when the others
are about gone, is one of its best character-
istics. Without any petting or thinning of
the fruit we had both Bubach and Gandys,
twenty berries of which filled a quart box.
Ten new varieties were sent me last spring
to test, and from their behavior I am satis-
fled that any berry brought out now must
be no slouch if it expects to have a run. In
addition to these quite a number of men
have written me what a wonderful new
Strawberry they have.
My intention is to prepare a bed to hold
twelve plants of every variety I have, set
them out as soon as young runners are
strong enough; give all an even chance, and
if spared until fruiting next sea.son, make
comparisons between them.
I will give $1,000 for a Strawberry plant
that is healthy and vigorous, as productive
as Crescent, as large as Bubach, the color of
Crescent (I like that), with the quality of
Ladies' Pine, and firmness of Capt. Jack.
To show how vain it is to jump at conclu-
sions in these matters, will state that out of
a dozen new ones here, one of the most
promising ones will go under. It won't
stand our hot, dry Missouri weather, as the
plants are wilting now, while all the rest
keep fresh. Before a new Strawberry can
be fully recommended for general culture,
it should be tried in different soils and
localities, as well as considerable range of
latitude. At this date there is a plant sent
me as No. 7, with three nice berries and one
blossom on it. These are on a side shoot
like a sucker coining from the stump of a
tree. If this can be detached from the main
plant with some root, it will be set apart
and perhaps we may get a late strain.
My Strawberry crop the past season was
most satisfactory, and lasted near two weeks
longer, from first to last, than ever before.
Early Peaches. They nearly all rotted.
Hot, rainy weather just at the wrong time,
with the cureulio in advance done the bus-
iness. The " Turkish Army " never invaded
my dominions before, and I was neither
forewarned nor forearmed, and taken by
storm. Another season, if on hand yet, will
find me prepared for them.
Nuts and Nut Tuees. The time is near
at hand when the nuts for planting should
be gathered. That this branch of industry
has not only lieen too much neglected, but
that many valualile Nut-bearing trees are
annually cut down, which should remain,
we all well know, and I hope this article
may induce many to save their trees. It
seems like sacrilege to cut down a good Nut-
bearing tree that has stood perhaps a cen-
tury; merely to give a little more land to
put in cultivated crops.
Not more than five miles from here is a
grove of Pecan trees of near one hundred in
number, scattered over about six acres, on
which land the owner raises crops of grain
nearly equal to that on clear land, and in
some seasons realizes more than a hundred
dollars from the nuts. The expense of gath-
ering them is but trifling as his children
who are too small to do much other work
pick them up. Last fall I paid the o^vner
eight dollars for the product of a single tree;
the largest known in these parts. After dis-
tributing all over the country, with instruc-
tions how to treat them, the balance were
packed in sand in a shallow box left out on
the ground exposed to the elements.
This spring they were planted in a row,
one inch deep and two inches apart. They
are now from six to ten inches in height, and
are a very handsome set of seedlings. Count-
ed them a few days ago and found that there
are about eight hundred. At the age of sev-
enty a man cannot well expect to see fruit
from them, but those who follow us may.
This nut is a commercial article and is
eagerly sought after. Louisiana and Te.xas
furnishes a much larger nut than grows in
this latitude, as a rule, but on trial they are
found too tender where the mercury falls to
30 and 40° below zero, while those I have
raised are from a tree that has withstood the
storms and winters of a century.
Some recommend cutting off the tap root
when transplanting, but this seems to me
wrong; mine will be planted as they are, and
in taking them up, great care will be taken
to keep the root entire. Deep rich soil is
where they grow best, and they vrill come
into bearing in eight or ten years. Walnuts
should be gathered in the fall, spread out
thinly on the ground, and slightly covered,
and in the spring planted about two inches
deep. They grow very fast, and will often
attain a height of three feet the first season.
Hickory nuts can be treated in the same
manner, but it is not as essential, as they
will grow after being dry for two years.
Three little Hales' Paper-shell Hickory nut
trees six inches big now, is the result of put-
ting three nuts in the ground last fall, which
were sent me by friend A. S. Fuller, three
years ago, and had laid in my seed drawer
all that time.
Acorns and Chestnuts need a little differ-
ent treatment. Those who are observant,
must have seen Acorns in a wet fall send out
a sprout near a finger's length, and push it
into the soil. Supposing that Chestnuts
would do the same, a few years ago, I got a
few quarts from the East with instructions
to not let them get dry. As soon as they ar-
rived they were set in a drill two inches
apart each way, covering about an inch and
a half deep. The following spring, ere veg-
etation had started, I found on examination
that they had made some root in the fall.
They nearly all grew and made fine trees,
and although of a large and excellent vari-
ety, I have commenced grafting them with
the Paragon. This is perhaps the most valu-
able Chestnut in America, and Henry M.
Engle deserves the thanks of his countrymen
for bringing it out. The beauty of it is its
excellent quality along with the large size
of the nut, and the number of nuts in one
burr which runs from three to five as far as
I have seen it.
This latter is easily grafted with fair suc-
cess, while the Hickory and Walnut are
more difficult. After trying for three years
to grow the Pecan on Hickory, of which
more than one hundred were set, have now
just three more grafts growing. Two of
these are a Hybrid between Shellbark Hick-
ory and Pecan, and a very valuable one.
Last spring I tried a different plan and suc-
ceeded in growing one. This will be tried
next spring if I am spared so long, and the
result, as well as the mode, given to the
readers. It will be time enough for those
who start seedlings. All my attempts of
budding have failed, although the bark sys-
tem, or half girdle, was practised. The very
dry weather may have been to blame for this
failure.
That the difficulty will be overcome I am
satisfied. On my new plan the branch is
not cut off until the graft is sure of growing,
thus saving the tree in full form in case the
graft fails. As an experiment I budded some
Chestnut on Chestnut trees, also on Oak,
but Ihe latter failed.
Black Raspberries and Their Habits
of Growth.
B. HATHAWAY, CASS CO., MICH.
In estimating the relative value of the dif-
ferent varieties of this fruit, few people take
into account the difference in the habit of
growth of the canes.
After many years of experience in the
field-culture of Raspberries I am led to be-
lieve that very much more attention should
be given to this subject than is usually ac-
corded to it.
The Ideal Stand, ok Hill. This should
contain a sufficient number of canes, and
there will not likely be too many. In fact,
as a rule, the more the better— the more
canes the more fruit. They should stand up
well without being too stiff. The fewer the
canes the larger and the stiffer they are, and
more likely to be broken by the wind, or in
the necessary handling during cultivation.
The smaller the canes the more elastic they
are, and therefore less likely to be broken.
That system of planting and culture which
will encourage the growth of a large num-
ber of canes is the best. Eight to ten canes
in a hill are none too many, and much to be
preferred to four or five, the usual number.
The Souhegan. I mention this as a type
of the most objectionable habit of plant of
any I know. It makes few canes, and those
are stiff, thorny, and liable to get broken.
To add to the trouble, its later growth is
weak and trailing, making it particularly
objectionable. It cannot be recommended
for field culture, nor for any culture except
when earliness is of paramount importance.
The Hilbohn. This has a better habit, a
larger berry, and it ripens early and all at
once, making it more desirable than the fore-
going, though its weak canes, as compared
to the larger growing sorts, do not recom-
mend it for field culture.
The Ohio. While this variety is largely
planted for field culture, especially for the
purpose of evaporating, it is very far from
giving satisfaction in the growth of its canes.
Until the third year it will persist in trail-
ing on the ground, and it never gets above
showing a disposition to require some sort
of trellis or support. It is hardy, a good
bearer, the fruit is large, though not the
largest, im<\ it will probably continue to be
planted in locations where the more desira-
ble kinds have proved tender, or until
equally good kinds, or better, have been
originated, with a more desirable habit of
growth. The Ohio has miule canes for me
that measured eighteen feet, which is at
least twice too much. It has been claimetl
for it that it required less fruit to make a
given number of pounds of the dry product,
in evaporating. This is not confirmed by
my experience, but quite otherwise. It is
more juicy than some others, notably Gregg.
The Guegg. This comes nearest having
the ideal cane of any I have tried. Like the
rest, it does not stand up the first year, but
it soon gets up and then it needs no trellis.
It makes abundance of canes, where well
established, and they are elastic, so they sel-
dom get broken, and for size of fruit it is
superior to any other, while for productive-
ness it is very satisfactory. If surpassed in
1889.
POPULAR GARDENING.
this ri'fiiird by the Ohio — wliicU is uot prov-
en— I tiiiil the GregK, tiiken for a series of
years, the most satisfactory variety I grow.
It will not withstand the same degree of
cold as the Ohio, and this must be taken in-
to account by the planter, and where the
land is low it should be discarded. But on
suit.ible soil and given the proper culture, it
is, 1 believe, the most desirable sort we have.
Oiu! characteristic not to be overlooked in
estimating its value, is its large size. The
pickers like it. I find they prefer to pick it
at 30 cents a crate rather than the Ohio at
35 cents, when both are at their best, and in
the later pickings the difference is greater.
I find also that the Gregg is the best for
evaporating, in the face of the fact of the
popularity of the Ohio for this purpose. It
is less likely to get mussy, and the dried
berries are proportionately larger dry than
the other sorts, and bring more a pound.
The Nem.\h.\. This comparatively new
sort is so nearly like the Gregg in its habit
that there is little to choose between the two
on that point. The fruit, however, is not so
large as that of the Gregg. If it is, as
claimed, more hardy, that is in its favor.
But in the three or four years I have had it
on trial I have seen little if any difjerence,
as to hardiness, between it and the Gregg.
I omit notes on other varieties, as those
named are the leading sorts in cultivation
and represent the various habits of growth
of the several kinds, which was my main
purpose of this writing.
Storing Apples for Winter.
There can be no doubt, at this time, that
this year's Apple crop is a very short one. A
large share of what there is grown, also seems
to be utterly unfit for market — gnarled,
cracked, scabby, small and poor generally.
We will not have to store gnorJ Apples, this
fall, to be kept over because we do not know
what else to do with them. If we do store
any, however, we should use all the more
care, for apparently, "Apples will be
Apples," ne.xt spring.
Some good advice about storing Apples
was given recently In the Farmers' Call.
Our friend Stahl says: First of all, gather
the Apples carefully. A bruise is sure to de-
cay, not only spoiling one Apple, but all in
contact. Assort the Apples carefully, select-
ing out, for immediate use, those bruised or
showing decayed spots.
Leave in the orchard, in piles of not more
than ten bushels, for six weeks, unless there
is danger of the Apples being frozen. Protect
by a covering of straw by night, and shield
from rain by a tight roof. This roof may be
made by driving down forked stakes; in the
stakes lay poles to support boards, lapped.
Or the Apples may be put, as gathered, on
the floor of a dry, airy outhouse or shed, but
not deeper than eighteen inches. Do not put
any straw or hay on the floor, or in the bins.
At the end of six weeks, or earlier if the
weather threatens, remove them to the cel-
lar, if you have one that can be kept just
above the freezing point and well ventilated.
Put them in bins not more than eighteen
inches deep, but as wide and long as is con-
venient; the bins raised on legs or blocks
eighteen inches from the floor, and the sides,
bottom and ends made of slats two inches
wide and one inch apart.
Apples may be kept in barrels, store boxes
or tight bins, but will not keep so well. Use
no straw, hay or anything in the bins,
boxes, or barrels.
Assort the Apples once every month if you
desire to keep them as long as possible, us-
ing those that have begun to rot or threaten
to decay.
Lacking the cellar, pit the Apples. Make
the pit on a high point, where the water will
be drained away. Excavate one foot deep
and three wide, and as long as is necessary,
throwing the earth on each side, Fill in
w ith Apples to the surface of the ground
and ridge them up a-s high as you can. Cov-
er first with (Irii earth to the depth of six
inches; next six inches of straw; then earth
and stable manure until the covering is so
deep that the Apples will be safe. Put the
manure on the outside and as deep as the
last layer of earth. Putting on the last lay-
ers may be deferred until severe weather is
imminent. Always dig a shallow ditch
around the pit, to carry ofT surface water.
The Possibilities and Future of Irri-
gation.
While from everywhere we hear reports of
increasing rainfall, flooded lands, grain and
Potatoes rotting from excess of moisture,
etc., here, although right in the midst of the
immense water ascumulations of the "Great
Lakes"— the swift current of the powerful
Niagara close by, and the Erie Lake, with
its broad expanse and inexhaustible supply
of water many feet above, less than twenty
miles distant — we were parched and burned
up, the surface of soil opened with deep
cracks waiting for the long delayed
rain, plants drooping in despair, and all
foliage coated with a thick layer of dust.
With the vast and inexhaustible reservoirs
only waiting to be tapped, close by, we
allow our late crops to be greatly decreased
in yield, or almost entirely ruined, just for
the want of moisture— hundreds of thou-
sands, perhaps millions of dollars, lost in
crops, simply becau.se we have failed to
grasp our opportunities.
There are hundreds and thousands of
localities where similar opportunities exist,
and are neglected as they are here. Ad-
vanced agriculture will not tolerate such
neglect much longer. What a garden
spot, hundreds of square miles in extent,
would be the result if a line of pipe, branch-
ing in every direction, were laid from Lake
Erie through this fine farming section.
Independent of the water supply of the
clouds, we Wfluld double our fruit, grain
and vegetable crops.
That this will come after awhile we have
no doubt. In the meantime, however, it
will do no harm to hurry up this desirable
achievement by agitation.
.As stated in a previous article, we believe
in SOU soaking, not in surface sprinkling,
since* we have learned by experience and
experiment, that the quantity of water
required for successful irrigation is far be-
yond our "carrying" or "carting" power.
Lilting water into tanks or reservoirs by
means of windmills, etc., may do well
enough for small garden spots ; but little
reliance could be placed on such devices for
the irrigation of whole farms. We are not
as sanguine as Mr. Henry Stuart, when he
says, in N. Y. Times, that one inch of water
constantly running may save fifty acres of
grain if available at a critical period when
the grain is forming or filling ; and to raise
this water might not cost one-tenth part of
the value gained. Otherwise the advan-
tages of irrigation are plainly set forth by
this distingulshe€l author.
Up to a certain limit, says Mr. Stuart,
the most profitable growth of all useful
plants depends essentially upon a maximum
quantity of water. And as a rule, except
under a system of irrigation, a sufficient
quantity of water for a maximum yield is
rarely, it ever, supplied by the rainfall.
Moreover, when the quantity of rain is sup-
plied within the year, it frequently falls
when it is not required in such abundance,
and very often falls disastrously and when
it is positively injurious.
Every farmer will admit that, could he
control the rainfall, he could grow better
crops than by dependence upon the irregu-
lar natural supply. The greatest anxiety
which falls upon the mind of the farmer is
due to the variableness of the weather.
Those farmers who depend wholly upon
irrigation for their crops enjoy advantages
over others which not only free them from
these tormenting anxieties, but which make
their labors much more profitable. They
sow their seed without waiting days and
weeks for rain to soften the land so that it
can be plowed, and they are not forced to
lose valuable time and risk ruinous damage
when excessive rain falls unsea.sonable.
Where the water can be turned on to the
land just when it is wanted, and may be
withheld when it is not wanted, the farmer
may be considered the happiest of mortals,
for his seed time is certain and his harvest
is sure, and destructive insect pests, even,
can be controlled. Indeed the avantages of
irrigation are such, and the scope for its use
is so broad and vast, that it would seem to
be within the range of possibility that profits
able agriculture will, in course of time (not
far distant either) be possible only where
farmers can control the supply of water.
But for the present it is matter for consid-
eration if farmers, even in localities where
the rainfall is ample in the aggregate,
although irregularly spread through the
season, might not make such a use of the
excess that is wasted as to supply the needs
of their crops when rain is withheld, and
the parched soil cannot feed the crops.
There can be no doubt of such a possibility.
It has been proved in practice for centuries
back in the case of the water meadows of
Europe and England, which have been pro-
ducing the largest yield of grass by means
of irrigation, and so far as the growth of
grass is concerned it is beyond question that
millions of acres on the borders of the in-
numerable streams, large and small, which
now flow uselessly, could be so fitted as to
produce four or five tons of hay to the acre
annually, year after year, for one knows not
how long a period.
At times, when these streams are swollen,
they are carrying to the ocean uncountable
tons of the richest fertilizing matter of
which they have denuded the land, and a
great part of this might be arrested by turn-
ing the water over the meadows, prepared
to receive it in such quantity as to supply
the soil with .sufficient moisture to produce
a full crop in spite of succeeding drought.
This is one of the possibilities of irrigation
that presents itself to every farmer who has
land suitable for it. It may be called
natural irrigation, because nothing more is
needed than to reach out the hand and
gather In the vast wealth that nature is
pouring with lavish waste past every farmer
so situated.
What to Do With Coal Ashes.
A. P. REED. CUMBERLAND UOUNIT, ME.
Coal ashes, I think, are commonly re-
garded as comparatively, if not utterly,
worthless. Indeed, I think they are, so far
as their fertilizing quality is concerned. I
have a pile of coal ashes in my yard which
has been there over a year, and around
which the grass does not grow one whit
better than by the roadside. Grass is as re-
sponsive as anything and should show the
effects of coal ashes here if there is any
effect to show.
But I have some uses for coal ashes that
seem pratical, and may help some to dispose
of surplus accumulations. In the first place
they serve well to make a hard walk, or
avenue, in any case where good gravel Is not
attainable. They may seem too light and
fluffy at first, but you will find that rain and
sunshine and travel soon get them down to
a tolerably hard surface, and where they
are placed the grass will stop growing.
They also are exceedingly serviceable
material for filling moist.places in avenues.
POPULAR GARDENING.
October,
Fig. 1. Branch
My next use— widely different— is in the
poultry house, where, especially in winter,
the fowls greatly enjoy picking them over,
and get much benefit from them.
Another use of interest to the female por-
tion of popular gardeners, is for scouring
the knives. Of course the ashes are pre-
viously sifted through a fine hair sieve. My
wife says there is nothing better. ,
CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. {
FOURTH PAPER. 1
Management on the Latekal Cane Hoei- '
zoNTAL Renewal Sv.stem. \
DR. J, STAYMAN, LEAVENWORTH CO., KAN.
Soon after the bearing shoots have been
pinched ofl" laterals will start out from their
axils, and these must be
pinched off just beyond
the first leaf as soon as
they show the second leaf.
At A in Fig. 1 we illustrate
the first pinching of the
leader, and at B the sec-
ond pinching. In a short
time after this other shoots
will start from the axils
of the last leaves. They
must al.so be pinched off
as before to one leaf, as
seen at C. If the canes
start with too much vigor,
and are likely to rot the
vines and fruit, they may be pinched again;
but if not they may remain as seen at D,
which shows the shoots growing with nat-
ural vigor without being stopped again.
This pinching is so necessary and import-
ant that we cannot too deeply and forcibly
impress it upon our readers, but it should
be carefully and thoroughly done each time
only upon the strong growing shoots, the
weaker ones either to be left alone or rubbed
off. The object of pinching off the shoots
just beyond the last bunch, and the laterals
to but one leaf each time, is to immediately
enlarge the remaining leaves nearest the
Grapes. By this close and timely pinching
we force out laterals at once, with additional
leaves which would have perhaps remained
dormant, at the most important time and at
the most desirable places. Consequently
we concentrate the energy and vigor of the
vine in building up the stock and fruit.
Should we extend the length of growth to
the second or third leaf or beyond them, we
would concentrate this energy to far beyond
the fruit and stock where we de not want it,
and to be again cut away in pruning. There-
fore it would only be a waste of vitality and
a violation of our fundamental principles.
The two shoots which are turned up from
the spurs for fruiting the next season being
also forced iuto lateral canes, and all suck-
ers being removed, the vines will be stocky,
firm and well matured, and prepared to
withstand the changes of the season, conse-
quently be more healthy, hardy and produc-
tive. These objects are thus accomplished
with the least waste of vitality, and in har-
mony with the laws of growth and the char-
acter of the vine.
The ground should be well cultivated
throughout each seascm, and kept clean of
weeds as before stated. The surface leaves
should be cut oft and kept off by deep plow-
ing or they will soon take all the strength
from the lower roots, so that the vine would
suffer in dry weather.
In the fall of the third year your vines
will have the appearance of the lower Fig.
on page 2.54 of last volume. They may then
be pruned as shown by the cross marks,
which indicate the right point forsuch prun-
ing. The two horizontal arms on the lower
wire which had fruit on, should be cut clear
away, leaving but two spurs of two buds each,
as shown by the marks in same figure.
The two center canes on the upper wire
should be brought down to the lower wire
to take the place of those just cut away, and
firmly tied there for fruiting the coming
season. If the canes are long enough they
should be cut so they will lap on the next
arm from the adjoining vine so one tie will
answer for both. When pruned and tied
they will have the appearance of Fig. 2, with
two bearing horizontal arms and two spurs
of two buds each, having about 30 bearing
buds which should produce about BO bunches
of Grapes to a vine the fourth year. The
treatment of the vine this fourth year
should be precisely as directed for third
year, but if properly treated they will in-
crease in strength and vigor, requiring
with their clusters of Grapes from a hori-
zontal cane supported by the branch of a
tree.
o/ Grape Vine stwwinfi gradual cnJaryiny of the hanging
during the Season.
I longer pruning, so they will bear more fruit
to keep them within subjection. The vines
in subsequent years should be pruned and
j trained in the same manner, giving them
, more bearing wood each year until they be-
come too strong and require more room.
It will be remembered that we only gave
8 feet as the distance apart for strong grow-
ing varieties, consequently we can only train
! our arms four feet long each until they
I meet:— If we increase the number of arms
j to our vines and place two on the top vine
) we violate an inipor'ant principle and give
ourselves extra work to equalize the sap
and keep the vines in subjection.
This upward tendency of the sap cannot
be counteracted except by training a vine
upon a horizontal plane. That is the natural
system and the only one adapted to the vine.
, Fuller m his Grape ;Culturist says " That
I while the vine grows upright it produces its
i most vigorous growth of wood, but its fruit
producing powers are not fully developed
until it takes a horizontal position." While
he admits this as a principle he violates it
in i)ractice, for he trains all the bearing and
renewing canes upright, and then says re-
, specting them. " If the young canes are
allowed to grow unchecked, the lower bud
upon them will seldom become suflticiently
developed t(j produce a vigorous fruit- rh
ing cane the succeeding year. That it
should be so devel.ped is all important
when vines are trained with horizontal
arms and spur pruned, and in no way
can this be accomplished except by
checking the growth while growing."
That is as much as to say that the
buds are not equally developed on an
upright cane because of its position,
therefore we must check their growth
to develop them. Then why are they
trained upright in violation of a well
known and admitted law of growth ?
Simply to carry out a fancy system of
training, which on paper may appear
plausil)le, but in a vineyard is entirely im-
practicable. We want no such system, and
the nature and character of the vine does
not require it.
What an outrage it would be upon nature
to see all the bearing canes of a wild vine
standing upright fastened to the limb of a
tree! Now see the beauty and simplicity of
?ro wth
Strawberries in Indiana.
BY GRANVILLE COWING, DELAWARE CO.. IND.
The Strawberry crop in this region was
much better than an average one this sea-
son, but the weather was excessively moist
when it ripened, and it was marketed under
very unfavorable circumstances. All varie-
ties produced unusually large berries— Cres-
cents in size equaling those of Cumberland,
grown in an ordinary season. Of new vari-
eties I had none as large, handsome and
productive as Bubach and Logan. The ber-
ries of the latter do not average as large as
Bubach, but many of them
are as large, shapely and
handsome as those of any
variety, and are of excel-
lent flavor. In size and
beauty the berries of .Jersey
Queen stood next to Bubach
and Logan, but in product-
iveness it is far surpassed
by them. All three are
strong growers, and free
from blight. Jessie was not
sufficiently productive on
my soil, but did well only
two miles away. But few
of its berries were above
medium size, and Crescent produced many-
fold more fruit.
Warfield also disappointed me as its ber-
ries did not average as large as those of Cres-
cent, nor was it remarkably productive. Its
berries were firm but not of good flavor.
But I notice many favorable reports of it
this season, from all parts of the country.
Haverland I liked much better, is product-
ive, its fruit smooth, sweet and shapely, and
above medium size, but possibly not firm
enough for long shipment. The berries of
Haverland and Pearl closely resemble each
other, but in other respects they greatly dif-
fer, Pearl inclining to blight, while Haver-
land is remarkable for health and vigor.
Gaudy is a late variety of the Grendale
type. Berries firm, late, tart, and occasion-
ally above medium size. As a late variety
it did not prove as desirable as Kentucky,
which appeared to have renewed its youth
this season. Mammoth rusted badly and
produced but few berries.
The berries of Gold were large, handsome,
and of the best fiavor, but not produced in
sufficient abundance. Cloud is a strong
grower but its berries are too small and soft
to make it desirable. It averaged about
half the size of Crescent.
Ohio again proved very unsatisfactory. I
. a.
Pig. 2. Three year old Vine itruned wi(h two bear-
iny Cane» and two Spurs with two Bud.-! each,
ready tied to the trellis.
nature, the young shoots hanging gracefully
was represented as being much like Ken-
tucky, but much better. In every way, ex-
cept habit of growth, it is much inferior.
Cumberland blighted badly last year, but
this season was in every way perfect. Jer-
sey Queen was also superb. It requires the
best treatment to make it profitable.
Plants of p:ureka, Mrs. Cleveland, and
Ohio Centennial were sent to me liy mail, last
spring, by Mr. Townshend, their originator,
to be tested. They aie all renuirkably strong
healthy growers, and a plant each of Mrs.
IS89.
POPULAR GARDENING.
Cleveland and Ohio Centennial, which were
allowed to fruit, produced a very large,
handsome berrie.*:. Two yeare ago Mr.
Lyons, of Minn., sent nie plants of a seed-
ling which 1 fruited this season which prom-
ises to be valuable. It is a strong grower,
free from blight, above medium size, very
productive, firm and of good flavor.
1 have a seedling Strawberry of my own
which tirst fruited two years ago and in de-
licious flavor and beauty surpasses any var-
iety I have yet seen. 1 have not yet had an
opportunity of fairly testing its productive-
ness, but hope to do so next year.
The Fall Web Worm.
The second brood of the Fall Web Worm
often appears in much larger numbers than
the first, and although, o\ving to the greater
amount of foliage, and its much more rapid
growth at this time, the injury may some-
times not be so conspicuous as that result-
ing from the first brood, no orchardist should
neglect to de^itroy every one of the caterpil-
lars he can find, with the view of lessening
future attack. Prof. A. J. Cook tells to the
Western Rural his method of destroying
caterpillars by applying strong soap suds to
their nests. He provides himself with one
pole long enough to reach the highest nests,
and another shorter one. To the small ends
of these he has fastened a piece of strong
cloth in such a manner as to have six or
eight inches of each loose, and forming a
kind of switch which can be applied over
and around the branches of the tree and
drawn through small spaces, such as small
forks, in which the nests are general loca-
ted. By proper and expert handling these
swabs can be applied to the caterpillars in
almost any situation. The vessel of strong
suds being carried from tree to tree, he finds
it not a very difficult job to apply the suds
to the nests, and he warrants every one of
the caterpillars to die immediately after the
first thorough application. Every man that
has a farm should see that all nests are de-
stroyed, whether on fruit trees, or on wild
Cherrv or Plum trees wherever forms.
Growing Onion Sets.
One by one, the old notions in gardening
and fruit growing are thrown over board.
From the several inquiries recently received
in regard to the production of Onion sets, it
appears however, that the impression so
long prevailing that seed for sets should be
sown late in Spring, or Summer, and in
poor soil, is not yet entirely eradicated In
a recent issue of the American Agricultu-
rist we find the following good suggestions
worth remembering in regard to this subject.
Onion seed cannot be sown too early in
spring or on too rich land. The real point
is to sow very thick, say twenty seetls to
each inch of row. One practical ditficulty
in sowing so thick is to get the seeds to ger-
minate. As every one knows, before a seed
can germinate it must absorb considerable
water, or, as we say, "swell." It absorbs
this water from the soil in immediate con-
tact with the seed. But when you have a
large number of seeds in a small place only
those in direct contact with the soil will get
moisture. The others will remain dry and
hard, and sometimes 'burn." There are
two remedies for this difficulty. Either sow
very early in the spring when the ground is
moist, and when we are likely to have an
abundance of rain, or soak the seed two or
three days before sowing. We say two or
three days, but by this we do not meau that
the seed .should remain in the water un-
changed for that length of time. Soak the
seed for twelve hours, and then throw it on
a sieve or cloth and let the water drain off.
Keep the seed in a moist state in a warm
room four to five hours and then soak it
again in fresh water another twelve hours.
and keep repeating this till you are ready to
sow. After such treatment for two or three
days, if the weather will not permit sowing,
put the seed in a cidd room and no harm
will be done. We have kept the seed moist
till it commenced to sprout, without harm.
In fact, we never had better sets than from
this sprouted seed. We repeat that early
spring, rich land, thick seeding and clean
culture are the great secrets of success.
.So for our contemporary. We have to
add that this crop makes an exception of a
general rule. Usually we use more seed on
poor soil than on rich soil. When sowing
for sets, the greatest amount of seed should
be iised an the richest soil, and the rows
should be closest together. We are not af-
ter large size, but after greatest number,
and imiform, small size. The grower of
early bunch Onions only prefers a good-
sized set, because it makes an earlier and
stronger growth.
In sowing seed with the seed drill, we us-
ually do not sow the full quantity at once,
but go over each row repeatedly with a
smaller amount until enough is sown.
Thinning Fruit and Melons in Ten-
nessee.
J. A. HAMILTON. RHEA CO., TENN.
The great trouble here is that, upon every
tree and vine and bu.sh a|^l stalk, too much
fruit grows to the square inch. The law
that " two bodies cannot occupy the same
space at the same time" in the formation
and growth of fruit, is almost ignored.
Peaches quarrel with Peaches for space;
Apples with Apples, and berries with ber-
ries. When left to nature this warning for
space is very injurious, especially to Peach-
es. If some horticulturist could formulate
a cheap plan to prevent this excessive for-
mation of frnit, it would save fruit growers
in this section large sums of money annual-
ly paid for thinning.
This superfluity of bloom and fruit occurs
also in Melons and Cucumbers. One illus-
trction will suffice. I planted 14 hills of
Watermelons in one row, 8 feet apart. They
were hoed once and plowed three times.
Two plants were allowed to grow in each
hill. Well rotted hen manure was used as a
fertilizer. The plants grew rapidly and
looked vigorous. The Melons were set thick-
ly on the vines and made a monstrous
growth. Many of the \-ines measured thirty
feet in length, with numerous lateral branch-
es. We had an abundance of Melons for
ourselves, for our neighbors and for the vis-
itors who came to see the patch, and sold
some besides. The largest one produced
weighed 60 lbs.; several weighed 50 lbs.
[Few growers who have never experiment-
ed in this direction, have any idea what ju-
dicious liberal feeding and favorable cir-
cumstances can do for Melons, even much
further north than Tennessee. In some
years it has seemed to us that the Melons in
our patch almost touched one another on
the ground, and the proceeds from a few
dozen hills have often been really wonder-
ful. Our method consisted in manuring
very liberally in the hill with composted
hen manure, with ashes, and any other rich,
fine material that may be available, and to
top dress the whole ground with .500 or (500
lbs. of some high-grade complete commer-
cial fertilizer. Ed.]
Old Favorites Among Flowers Now
Seldom Found.
M. B. FAXON, MASS.
Nasturtiums. — Nearly every one who has
a garden, or even a few feet of land so situ-
ated as to allow of any plant growth, has at
one time or another grown our common
Nasturtiums, such as Tropseolum major,
T. Lobbianum and T. peregrinum, yet few
home gardeners are aware that there are
.several tuberous-rooted species of this
beautiful class of free blooming plants.
The species referred to are, however, much
less hardy than our well-known favorites,
and are generally greenhouse plants of
delicate growth and fit subjects for careful
culture. Perhaps the most beautiful of
these little flowers is T. azureum, the
blooms of which are of the finest and most
delicate blue in the floral kingdom. The
tubers, or bulbs, as they would be com-
monly called, should be planted as soon as
they show signs of growth, in good rich
loam containing a portion of sharp sand, in
medium-sized pots. Growth usually com-
mences in early autumn, and the plants
flower in spring. After the blooms fade the
foliage dies down, and the root should be
allowed to rest through the summer.
The plants need plenty of sun and air,
and to be twined around a trellis or some
kind of a support each day. A singular
feature in their growth is that the stem at
the crown of the bulb is often no larger
than a hair, while higher up it will be three
or four times as large. There are several
other species of this class or division, but
the one mentioned is perhaps the most
striking. T. tricolorum has flowers of
orange, red and purple, and T. Jarattii,
yellow and .scarlet.
With proper care I am sure that thjese
little plants might be made to succeed in a
sunny window, at least it would do no harm
to experiment a little, and success would
amply repay the trouble.
Peruvian D.iffodil.— Peru is the home
of some of our choicest floral treasures.
Near Lima, the capital, a summer-flowering
bulb, somewhat resembling a Daffodil, is
very common. This is Hymerocallis
amanceas, sometimes called Ismene aman-
ceas. This genus embraces about a score of
species, but the one named is, so far as I can
learn, the only one common in the locality
mentioned. They should be planted in the
border in sandy loam, or still better almost
clear sand. If the soil is not sandy they
will not bloom well.
Trilliums. — I was pleased to notice, in
glancing through the spring catalogue of
one of our enterprising young dealers and
collectors of native plants, a cut and de-
scription of the beautiful Trillium grandi-
florum, the "Wake Robin" of our boyhood
days iu the country. No doubt many other
dealers catalogue this plant or bulb, but no
one to my knowledge has taken particular
pains to bring it to notice. This plant is a
native of rich woods, but will grow well in
deep garden soil, which is naturally some-
what moist. It is perfectly hardy, needing
no protection of any kind. The bulbs may
be planted either in early spring, or still
better late in the fall after the leaves die
down. I have seen acres almost solidly
covered with blooms of this flower, in a
partially-cleared second-growth wood land
where soil and location were especially
favorable, and could hardly realize that I
was viewing such natural floral splendor
here in cold New England, which some of
our Southern friends say is only fit for
sheep pasture.
Lupines.— Many species of Lupines are
common, especially in western North
America, but none prettier than the com-
com dwarf Lupinus nanus. This native
annual of California is very common, and
few gardens grow it. A few days since I
saw some growing on the grounds of a
friend, and though familiar with it, I had to
think twice before the name came to mind.
I like to run across some of these old and
less common plants now and then, for even
though they may not be particularly attrac-
tive,'they are former garden acquaintances
and ought not to be forgotten.
lO
POPULAR GARDENING.
October,
After Dreary Winter the Gay Tulip
and the Fragrant Hyacinth.
Hardy bulbs must always remain one of
the chief resources of the manager of small
parks, open spaces and pleasure grounds in
and near large cities, so long as it is his de-
sire to make an early spring display to
please the eyes of the multitude. And to do
the latter should be one of his chief objects.
The winter is long and gloomy, and at its
end a flue display of color, agreeably con-
trasting with the first green
of the young grass just
starting, will always be a
pleasing thing and a great
attraction.
The Tulip and Hyacinth
stand at the head of these
bulbs, and are largely used
for such purposes both here
and in Europe. Last spring
we noticed and admired
some fine beds of this kind
in the smaller parks of New
York City and elsewhere,
and there were few passers-
by who would not linger at
least a little while to en-
joy the sight. Our illustra-
tion, reduced fi'om Garden-
er's Magazine, shows a few
places in England where
Tulips and Hyacinths were
prominently displayed last
season.
The great advantage of
spring bulbs is that they
can be planted after the
summer show of bedding
plants is over, and come off
in time to plant for another
summer display. Thus they
are not interfering with
anything else. The priv ite
gardener can also draw his
lessons from these displays
of Tulips and Hyacinths
To be effective they should
be planted in masses, m
solid blocks of color and
rather close. Varieties
that are at once cheap, dis
tinct and effective can here
be used with best advant-
age. Planting these bulbs
sparingly and far apart, will usually only
make a poor show.
at least the Candidum and Auratum Lilies,
and a white, pink, and red P*onia. Though
their season of bloom is not long, their large
handsome flowers attract much attention,
and please the "men-folks" better than
anything else.
If care can not be given to shrubbery, re-
strict yourself to Snowballs, and Lilacs,
which do not mmd neglect. For Roses, take
time to care for Mad. Charles Wood, (crim-
som), La France (pale pink), Gen Jacqemi-
Flowers for Busy People.
MRS. LOBA S. LA MANCE.
For a number of flowers, obtained with
little trouble, nothing surpasses a bed of
herbaceous perennials and hardy bulbs. A
good long bed should be marked out, filled
rich mellow .soil, and planted in spring or
fall, placing the tallest growing plants at
the back or in the center. Most perennials
can be grown from seed, but busy people
had better buy plants instead, which are
much less trouble, and will bloom first sea-
son. Among the best sorts to plant are the
Perennial Phloxes, which bloom a long time
in immense panicles of white, rose and pur-
ple; the Delphiniums, in long spikes of blue;
the Hollyhocks, double as Roses, and the
new Helianthus, large as Dahlias, and yel-
low as gold. The more modest Achillea and
Feverfew, which area mass of white blooms
all summer, should not be forgotton, nor
the Bleeding Heart; coming at a time vihen
flowers are scarce.
If to these are added Crocus, TuUps, and
Datt'odiUs, which will bloom as soon as frost
is out of the ground, and Chrysanthemums
for late blooming, a succession of flowers
will be had from early spring to late fall.
Only early varieties of Chrysanthemum
should be chosen for out-door display. In
addition, every perennial bed should have
TULIPS AND HYACINTHS IN MASSES.
not (dark red), and Washington (climbing
white). These are constant bloomers, har-
dy, and only need pruning and enriching in
the spring. Nothing is easier to care for in
the way of climbers, than the Honeysuckle
and Passion-vine. With these you will have
all the flowers needed at little expense and
trouble. The Perennial needs no care but
an occasional hoeing, and a dividing of
clumps of roots once in a while.
Floral and Other Notes.
E. P. FOWELL, ONEIDA CO.. N. T.
I have recently seen in one of our best hor
ticultural journals all ornamental hedges
condehined. I cannot agree with this. The
Scarlet-flowering Quince makes a fine hedge;
the Lilac is also good, but best of all is the
Bush Honeysuckle. It does well in spite of
abuse, if given half a chance. If a busli gets
killed back, it is up again within two months,
and stout as ever at the close of the season.
The flowers are lovely, and the berries equal-
ly so. The robins eat the berries in prefer-
ence to Raspberries.
The Japan Quince is superb in blossom.
These are white, red, and pink flowering.
So of the Tartarian Honeysuckles you will
be able to procure red, pink, and white flow-
ering ones.
Another ground screen or hedge may be
made of Catalpas cut down and grown as
bushes. They will blossom superbly at three
or fo\ir feet high; and in .luly make a very
beautiful display. Set them six feet apart.
The Ribes make pretty, small hedges show-
ing finely in early May. The list of good
shrubs for hedges is quite long. Of course,
these ornaments need care, and as a rule, (tU
hedges tend to become ugly if neglected.
Some old-fashioned flowers give us a sen-
sation of comfort, and I am always glad to
rest my eye on them. Yesterday a bunchof
Batchellor's Buttons was handed me. It was
truly an elegant bunch of flowers. The
Grass Pink of our mothers'
gardens ought also to be re-
stored to favor. How fine-
ly it served to border beds.
Everywhere nowadays
Pinks of all sorts are neglec-
ted. Even the Heddewigs
have gone out of fashion.
There is no Pink, however,
in the world to cempare
with hardy Carnation or
Garden Carnation, or mere-
ly Pink as some growers
call them. I have always
known them as the Clove
Carnations. They are the
most exquisitely scented of
all Pinks, entirely hardy
and perennial. Theyshould
be renewed, however, about
like Sweet Williams, by
keeping fresh plantations
under way each year. Now
add the Sweet Williams to
the list and never say
enough. This is one of the
flowers In which I delight.
Cut ott the early flower
stems and get a full bloom.
To these join a plenty of
Nasturtiums. There are few
things more delicious and
wholesome. How well I
remember the pots of "Stur-
tion" pickles of forty years
ago. They were good, as
good as the higgledy-piggle-
dy messes that are now
chow-chowed.
A good deal of quiet com-
fort comes also from an
herb garden. Sage should
once more be a favorite
in family use. I find it
very pleasant occasionally to lay aside choc-
olate and drink Sage tea with plenty of
cream; as for Chinese teas and coffee they
are not tolerated in my family. Summer
Savory is the best of herbs for soups and
meats. Pennyroyal and Carraway make
me think that I am once more walking with
the little mother who so delighted in them
half a century ago, and that is enough to
make me plant them. Should not our gar-
dens be useful to retain the past as well as
to suggest progress?
The Hollyhock is my pride. I do not know
a finer plant, all in all, than this malvaceous
giant. It stands on my lawns in at least
fifty distinct shades of color — from black and
red to yellow and white. Everybody enjoys
them; and visitors drive ten miles to exam-
ine them, and asks for seeds.
Our farm grounds should he rendered
more beautiful every way. Hollyhocks
should stand about our back lines and
fences; and Lilacs and other shrubs about
our barns and other buildings. Over all
sheds and barns should grow Grape-vines
and running Roses. The shame of our homes
is that we run lawn mowers in front and
keep Gehenna in the rear. Nothing can be
conceivably more vile than the average barn
surroundings of our American homes. A
new departure here is sorely needed. But
I am leaving my topic, and however tempted
must let the <iuestion of ornamentation as to
this subject drop for the present.
1889.
POPULAR GARDENING.
1 1
I should like to nuike my liual note to con-
cern the Gladiolus. This is the most won-
derful of recent additions t<> our gardens —
wonderful from its adaptation to variations
throujj;!! crosses. I have several hundred
seedlings and among them are two doubles
and one that holds its flowers upright like a
Tulip. This set includes besides some oth-
ers of the finest I have ever seen. It takes
three and four years to bring the seed to
flowering; the poorer and coarser sorts in-
variably blooming first. The Gladiolus has
the great advantage of
blooming through three
months, and those three "
that most lack in flores-
cence. Plant the bulbs
in succession in May
and June, the smaller
bulbs first and you will
have flowers from July
SOth to heavy frosts. To
keep them through win-
ters, dig and thoroughly
dry: then put away out
of reach of both damp
and frost. If not well
dried they will sprout
and spoil.
imaginable shades of colors during the
summer. No garden can be considered
complete without them, in view of the vari-
ous positions for whicli they are adapted.
They are most useful either tor the adorn-
ment of house and garden walls, brighten-
ing old stumps, covering and beautifying
old buildings, rockeries and ruins. They
will also climb over trellises or up snaggy
poles, and therefore may be employed in
any position where a summer screen is
wanted ; and last, but not least, they are
Flowers for Table
and Exhibit.
Nature is a great
teacher; the trottble is
that we do not always
heed her lessons. How
pleasing, for in.stauee, is
her own disjjlay of flow-
ers, as we see it in a
well-grown plant in the , - -
border or in the green-
house. Compared with _ ^j-
this, how strained, im-
natural and artificial
appears the usua 1
crowded arrangement of flowers in bou-
quets, vases, etc., on the dinner or exhibi-
tion table. Nature never crowds flowers,
and our best florists have taken the hint,
and will make tasty bouquets with one-third
of the flowers that most amateurs would
use for the same sized bouquets.
A block cut out of wood and bored full
of holes, as shown in our Illustration, may
be very useful in helping the amateur to
cultivate this principle of natiu-al flower
arrangement. Indeed we consider it a most
excellent device, simple, cheap and efficient.
The appearance of the flowers thus arranged
(see illustration) can not help to impress
the beholder favorably, as everything will
that is natural and free from artificial stiff-
ness.
The Clematises : History and Uses.
FRANCLS FELL, LONDON, ENG€.AN1>.
Considering the abundance of varied and
beautiful material which we now possess
FORM FOR TABLE PIECE.
for covering walls, the wonder is that we
ever find any that is bare, especially as they
are so unsightly in a landscape scene.
Climbers of any sort, whether on the
humblest cottage or on the castle wall, are
always very pleasing, and all the more so
where there is a happy combination of flow-
ers and foliage. What could be more beau-
tiful than a wall covered with various
climbers, such as Clematises, the popular
Ampelopsis Veitchi, and others ?
Clematises are the prettiest of all climb-
ers, and produce a wealth of flowers in aU
TABLE FLORAL PIECE IN THE NATURAL STYLE.
adapted for bedding purposes, and an en-
hancing efiiect can be produced when
! judiciously associated.
Some of the more tender kinds, with
ornamental evergreen foliage, can be suc-
cessfully used for the decoration of green-
houses, conservatories and glazed corridors-
Indeed, large quantities of Clematis
indivisa and C. indivisa lobata are now
largely gro^vn in England for cutting pur-
poses. The beautiful pure-white, star-
shaped, sweet-scented flowers are produced
in endless succession, and hundreds of
flowers can be cut from a single plant. For
floral decorations either single flowers or
large branches can be used, and are never
out of place, as white, sweetly-fragrant
flowers are always highly appreciated.
There are, however, many other charming
varieties fit for indoor cultivation. As not
everyone who is fond of flowers is in posses-
sion of a greenhouse, we will keep in view
the hardy section mainly.
The Clematis, or Virgin Bower, botanic-
ally considered, belongs to the order Ranun-
culaeea?, which is typified by such well-
known flowers as the Buttercup of our
meadows, and the gorgeous Anemones of
our flower gardens. According to history
they have been cultivated in our gardens
ever since the end of the sixteenth century.
The species of Clematis are very numer-
ous, as the scientific records give a total of
about 230 different species. Of these South
America produces 3.S, Central America and
the West Indies, between them, 9, and North
America about 35, many of the latter having
found their way into our gardens. In
Europe some 17 species are found, chiefly
occurring in the southern and eastern
regions. Some 4^ are of Indian origin, 9 are
Japanese, and one reaches westward to
Persia ; about 30 comprising some of the
finest of the species come from China and
.Japan, U from Siberian regions, and 3 from
the Fiji Islands. From Africa we have
some 14 species, natives of the tropical
mainland; 4 others come from South Africa,
while one or two are of the European
species. Clematis Flammula, for example,
extends into North Africa ; (i species are
found in Madagascar. New Holland and New
Zealand yield their quota, the flora of the
former with l.'j, that of the latter .5 species.
The improvements of late year on the old
and better known sorts are really astonish-
ing, and no one can
form an idea of their
striking beauty unless
he has seen them grow-
ing to perfection. Many
of the new varieties
have immense flowers,
meastiring six to nine
inches across, in almost
every shade of color-
white, blue, red, rose,
crimson, purple, violet,
lavender, etc., etc.
Some of them are
striped and veined in
the most exquisite
manner.
Uses in G.\rdens.—
As standards for lawns,
nothing can be more
enhancing as a floral
picture when grown on
[)arasol-shaped trainers
about five feet high and
ai ranged in lines with
standard plants of Acer
uegunda variegata of
the same height. It is
almost impossible to
_,__ overestimate the gorge-
ous effect which they
are capable of produc-
ing when thus ar-
ranged. The never-ending thousands of
various sorts of Clematis blooms, and the
bright, leafy splendor of the variegated
Acer, form a rich combination of flowers
and foliage, the beauty of which no words
can express.
Groups entirely devoted to Clematises in
prominent positions in the garden form
admirable objects. These groups should be
of an irregular character, and the plants
should be planted on raised mounts about
two feet high and six to eight feet apart. At
some convenient time after planting, and
before the necessity of training has arisen,
the poles should be placed about the plants.
The manner of doing this may be according
to taste. A single pole, well provided with
short, lateral branches, may be inserted,
and the plant trained about this ; or, three
poles or ornamental irons may be set so as
to form a pyramid, should it be preferred.
(To be Conrhidetl.)
I,;3(i0. Lily of the Valley. For open-air cul-
ture it should be given a deep moderately en-
riched soil and a partially shaded situation.
Plant as early in th(^ autum as possible, and pro-
tect the first winter with a co\erin{f of coarse
manure or Evergreen branches. In planting
keep the pips about four inches apart each way.
— Chas. E. Parnell.
1.376. Oladiolns. I would take the bulbs,
upon a dry day about the end of October, clean
them off, place in bo.ves, and store in a dry frost-
proof cellar for the winter. Don't pack them in
sand or anything else.— C. E. P.
1,37.5. New Nasturtinm. There is a variety of
the Tom Thumb section named "Chameleen,"
the flowers of which are i«culiarily marked with
crimson, bronze and golden yellow.— C. E. P.
1.377. White Tulip, La Candeur is the best
double-white Tulip with which I am acquainted.
— C. E. Parnell.
1,382. Booseberry Cnlttu-e. There is no treatise
or publication on this sub,iect. Downing's
Fruits of America contains a chapter giving
full particidars as to their culture, etc.— C. E. P.
12
POPULAR GARDENING.
October,
Picking Apples.
Apples to pick ! Apples to pick I
Come with a basket and come with a stick.
Rustle the trees and shake them down.
And let every boy take care of his crown.
Thujnp ! plump ! down they come raining !
Shake away : shake till not one Is remaining.
Hopping off here, and popping of there.
Apples and Apples are everywhere.
Golden Russets, with sunburnt cheek,
Fat, ruddy Baldwins, jolly and sleek ;
Pippins, not much when they meet your eyes.
But wait till you see them In tarts and pies !
Beautiful Bellefleurs, yellow as gold,
Think not we're leaving you out in the cold :
And dear fat Greenings, so prime to bake,
I'll eat one of you now, for true love's sake.
It's plenty of work and plenty of play.
And plenty of Apples the livelong day.
Oh, the time and the place for boys, I maintain.
Is the month of October, the good State of Maine.
Touth's Companion.
Chrysanthemums.
O flowers of Indian Summer !
Like Field Dalies glorifled,
With brilliance of the sunlight.
Or the vestures of a bride :
With deep hues of the vintage.
Or the flushing of the Rose,
As the Summer smiling back.
Ere the year she graced shall close.
Air the plants often.
A fruit diet is a health diet.
Welcome now. Chrysanthemums !
Clean up the yard, the flower beds.
Dry the rubbish and touch a mat<^h to it.
Ehubarb does rather the best for fall planting.
Celery makes its best growth after September.
We want our Pumpkin pie made of Squashes,
Again we repeat handle Celery onlj- when it is
dry.
No one can make good cider from rotten Ap-
ples,
Bipe Grapes can stand a light frost, green ones
can not.
What has became of the fractional currency
agitation V
A device for stripping Currants from their stem
is reported.
For the roadside, and for shade in pastures
plant Cherries.
Gardeners find the land a wilderness; they
make it an Eden,
Hardy Eoses may be planted this month in
"Well-drained soil.
The Wilder Early Pear is highly spoken of
e\ erywheie this season.
Work for Fall. Pruning young trees. Grape
Tines, etc., after leaf fall.
Old clumps of Hollyhock flower earlier than
plants from fall-sown seed.
A little top dressing of compost for the lawn
where the grass is thin may help it.
Don't fear the Cabbages and Turnips freezing
a little. It really improves their flavor.
Among the chief virtues of the Miami Straw-
berry is named its late blooming character.
Weeds like dogs are in the garden good in their
place. Their place is to be plowed under for
manure.
The first King Apples, exported this season,
sold m Glasgow at S3 to 34 shillings (about §5,75
to IH.IJU) i)cr barrel.
Chinch bugs, cutworms, hx^usts, etc., are fav-
orite food of the quail. The pot hunter should
not be g-iven too much latitude.
Have yon tried a weak solution of saltpeter or
nitrate of soda on outdoor or imt plants'/' It is
an excellent fertilizer, our word for it.
Lower express rates will come in the end, if
horticultural societies, like that of the American
Nurserymen, keep pegging away at it.
Actinidia polygama is highly praised by our
friend Mr. Carman as a quick growing vine that
is absolutely hardy, will grow luxuriantly in a
northern, shady position, and will travel from
tree to tree, forming pretty arbors and wild en-
tanglements.
Eeform better than Death The Wild Cherry
trees along the road sides may breed caterpillars,
but they can be easily changed into useful Plum
trees by top grafting. I find that all Plums work
well on the Wild Cherry, and the latter also take
Peach and .Apricot buds.— C. K. J/cyers, Ill».
Green Mountain Grape, Sample.s were re-
ceived from Stephen Hoyt's Sons early in Sep-
tember. In size and shape of bunch, and size of
berry it resembles Delaware, but the bunch maj'
be somewhat looser. Berry dull green, sweet,
tender, pleasant, not without acidity, and defi-
cient in richness.
The Aster for cut flowers seem to be gaining
in popularity. The Victoria is probabl.v the best
for florists' use. Burpee's Dwarf Queen is highly
spoken of. The more we see of the Chrysanthe-
mum-like Comet Aster the better we like it.
Seed may be sown any time from December until
June, and flowei^ had all through the year.
A rather mixed style of gardening is some-
times seen in English market gardens, invoU ing
a curious rotation of vegetables and flowers.
Hut it serves its end, namely, to increase the
revenues from the business. It is quite a novel
thing to see a four acre Potato patch with Wall-
flowers planted all between the Potato vines.
'* Name Lost " shovild be written on the new
label, if the old one is not to be found, and the
name not remembered with certainty. Never
rename a plant without certainty that you are
right. Later its name may be recovered. Try to
familiarize yourself with your plants and their
habits, and it will not be difficult to remember
their names.— JoTij) Lauc, i'tiicoifO.
The Leader Grape, samples of which were re-
ceived from Painesville, O,, on September 17th,
seems to ha\"e some of the characteristics of the
Niagara, being perhaps looser in bunch, a little
smaller in berry, of same color and amount of
" native aroma," but seemingly still richer in fla-
vor. If vigorous, healthy and productive, the
variety is undoubtedly a promising one.
Coleraiu Grape. Some clusters of it were placed
on our table September 4th. Bunch small mod-
erately compact. Berry of medium size, green
with delicate whitish bloom, tender and having
a trace of native aroma, but remarkable for
honeyed sweetness and richness, and in favorable
contrast with the other first, early sorts. Al-
together of unusual promise for a novelt}'.
The Lady-bug Our Ally. How quickly Pota-
to bugs vacate the Held when the Lady-bug
makes its appearance on the vines. I have hand-
picked my little patch of Potatoes twice a day.
All at once the Lady-bugs arrived by dozens, and
since then I have found but one full-grown bee-
tle, and only two lana". Have not had to put
anything on the vines, and they look finely.—
Subscriber.
The Late Mr. Shaw's Grounds, The announce-
ment of the death of Mr. Henry Shaw, of St.
Louis, brought vividly to mind the many pleas-
ant hours I had spent in the famous Shaw's gar-
den. Tens of thousands of others ha\e found
and will find pleasure and instruction in this gar-
den. What an excellent use Mr. Shaw has made
of his means and opportunities ! May others be
persuaded to follow in his footsteps, as his gar-
den has awakened in many a love for plants that
will bring them the purest enjoyment for years.
—J. M. Stahl.
Little and Often, Instead of giving plants an
excess of food at any one time, I believe it a
much better way to feed them by degrees, but
enough at all times. This applies especially to
the Vine family. Have tried this plan this season
on a few hiUs of Squashes with best results.
Liquid manures, including much of the house
slops, may be put to best use in this way, and be
the means of greatly economizing the solid man-
ures, I believe it is a method worthy to be rec-
ommended for garden and greenhouse, on large
as well as small scale.— .4. P. Hf^eiU Me.
Heating a Small Greenhonse. My house is a
span roof 15 feet siiuare and 10 feet to pitch. It
is heated by two oil stoves with two three-inch
burners each and it is very seldom necessary to
light more than two burners. Over each stove
is a galvanized iron boiler holding about three
gallons, and without cover. I use the best re-
fined oil and have never noticed any smell in the
house. The stoves burn from 10 to 12 hours
without any attention, .\ small boiler heated by
oil stoves I think would pay manufacturers, as in
the south we do not need any costly heating
apparatus used at the north. Hot water is the
best for heating,— E. B. Hoiiings. S. C.
Floral Decoration of Vehicles. The curious
style made use of by European fiorists in the de-
coration of vehicles of all sorts for processions
and is well represented by the specimens shown
A QUAINT FLORAL DEVICE.
in our illustrations (reduced from Gardener's
Magazine). The Sedan chair is quite an elaborate
att'air, being entirely covered with Roses. In
the deconition of carriages, carts, etc., every
conceivable form of flower and foliage is utilized
The coachman's boxes frequently have a fixed
canopy of flowers, and the bodies of the carriages
are thickly covered with flowers all along their
upper surfaces, while the sides are prettily fes-
tooned. The wheels also are decorated in a
similar manner.
The Beefwood Tree. Of few trees may it be
said that they are funny, but there is a funny
tree in the Shaw Garden of St. Louis, Mo, When
you first notice it, if there is much humor in
your composition you will smile ; as you further
observe the tree your smile will broaden, and
the chances are good that you will laugh heartily
as you turn away. The tree is the Beefwood
( Ca.furiana (jiiadriralvis ) from Australia. The
trunk is so very crooked and much contorted
that you are almost forced to the conclusion
that this tree has grown in the dark. Even the
bark is twisted and curled and distorted, as if the
tree had eaten a txiy's mess of green Apples. One
might conclude that the leaves are but atten-
uated extensions of the branches, being a foot
or more long, cylindrical, and almost as fine as
hair. As it grows out of doors in this garden,
this tree is probably not a hard pet to keep
and as a curiosity it would well be worth the
having.— JoAh M. Stahl, Adams Co.. III.
Nicotiana affinis. Perhaps this is more uni-
versally grown in other places, but here every-
one who sees it, speaks of its beauty, and asks
what it is, and 1 have plenty of opportunities to
give a plant here and there, which is a part of
the pleasure of Floriculture, It has a fragi'ant
white flower, is very easily grown from seed, is
as easily cared for as a Geranium in the house
during winter, and makes a large shrub when
grown out of doors. I have yet one of the first
plants J grew. It is now two years old, has
blossomed in my conservatory nearly all the
winter, and planted out during summer is full of
bloom. 1 suppose it is a tender perennial, but it
is so easily grown from seed one who does not
care to keep them through the wintei can have
a grand display in the summer garden, by sow-
ing the seeds, which are very fine, in a box in-
doors, about the first of April, then plant out as
soon as danger from frost is over. They begin
to blossom by the last of June and keep right on
until frost They sland drouth and all hard
usage as well as a Geranium or Petunia,— J/iriam
Parhtr. ^tint^esl'ta.
Using Waste Places. There are many out-of-
the-way places, little nooks, and unsightly fences
that we take no especial delight to look at near
our homes, and that might be made places of
beauty and enjoyment. Among the common
things that please the eye are Nasturtiums and
Hollyhocks to cover fences and sides of barns,
sheds, and houses. Hollyhocks of the better class
are some of the finest bloomers to be obtained,
and when once planted they take possession of
the ground with their multitude of seeds. Mine
in the deep rich loam under my windows some-
times grow ten feet high and do not cease to
bUiom until autumn. Seeds sown now will bloom
next year. Nasturtiums ha\e given great delight
to my citj* visitors and boarders, climbing over
an old branch near an open door. Among the
18S9.
POPULAR GARDENING.
lovelk'St of planti! are tlie "Fairy Lilies," (Zephyr-
anthes or Amaryllis Atamasco) with their deep
pink bUtssoms. "Shell Flowei-s " (Tiirriiiias) too,
are veiy (lesinible for their iK'auty, with their
spotted ami lloeked tlowers whieh last but a day
in bloom, bvit rei>ay the lover of nature for all
his pains. If late in blooming I put them in box-
es or pots and have the pleasure of them indooi-s.
— Mrs. h. It. /V \yn]f.
Floral Design for Wedding. Last sprin«^ 1 wils
retpiest^Ml to sujrjrest some way toarrnnj?etiowers
for a friend's wedding, and as the followin;.' idea
wiU"* eonsidcrcd very appropriate for sueh an oe-
easion, 1 send it, thinking some of your readers
might like it, or some variation of the same.
Take a small round, oval, or s(iurtre table Uhe
latter is l)e.*Jt) eover with oileloth to iirevent the
moisture from injuringit, upon this lay a mirror.
of a size to eorrcsponil with the table, cover the
mirror frame, and table top with Moss, and
along the back edge set a few pretty Ferns, and
Vines to trail o\er the edge, and train upon the
wall. Do not make the margin of the Moss where
it borders the mirror too precise and formal, but
rather have it resemble the bank of a real lake
as much as possible, set tir)wei-s here and there
along the mossy banks, and tiny Ferns, in short
imitate nature as closely as possible. Then make
a flat-bottomed boat of pasteboard, with wooden
oars, gilded, cover the boat with pale lavender or
white pa|>er, and upon the stern in gilt letters
the wortl HOPE. Launch the boat uptm the
lake, fasten to the shore by means of a gilded an-
chor, and silken cord, or gilt chair, and till the
boat with any suitable blossoms.— "KWcr'sFTi/t*."
CMldren's Flower Bed. Have the little ones
had a flower bed this summer, where they could
go whenever they choose, and gather as many
flowers as they wished'/ If not, make arrange-
ments for one for next season, and for fear you
may forget it, or not get time to attend to it next
spring, make it, or part of it this fall, sowing
mLxed seeds of Poppies, and the old-fashioned
" Bachelor'3 Ituttons " {Centaurca cuanusy, 1
know of no flowei-s which will require less atten-
tion, and give such quantities of flowers as these.
Several years ago I bought seeds of these old-
fashioned favorites, and they have mixed and
crossed until I now have man j' v'arieties. some
of them entirely distinct from any included in
the original purchase. A part of the old garden
has become seeded with them, and all summer it
is a mass of pink, blue, purple, and scarlet, undis-
turbed save by the busy little bodies whogo there
frequently to gather bouquets for themselves
and their friends. The Poppies make a gorgeous
spot of color, but I am not fond of them as cut
flowers, being very short-lived, and their odor is
very otfensive to me, but the dainty "' Bachelor's
Buttons," with their various shades of pink, and
purple, and blue, and white, with various colored
eyes, or more beautiful, still the delicately striped
ones, form lovely and lasting bouquets, and have
a not iinplcasing fnigrauce.— £frfer'8 Wife.
The Dwarf Wax Flower. The Common Wax
flower Haya carnnaa is an old favorite among
Horse ami Cart Festooned with Fiowers.
house plants. It is an excellent plant in almost
every way, pro\ided it be given a warm place in
winter. This is not diflBcult wherever Anthracite
coal is used as the heating fuel of our houses.
A species of the genus not so well known as the
common kind is Hoya Bella^ or as it is common-
ly called the Beautiful Wax Plant, of which
an engraving is given herewith. This sort is both
more dwarf in habit and more delicate in the
character of its bloom than is the older one. H
needs considerable heat and light, and when these
are provided it may easily be handled to be a very
satisfactory plant. A soil consisting of loam,
peat, sand, with flnely broken charcoal and old
mortar rubbish pounded suits it well, the pots
being thoroughly drained. Lack of heat is liable
to render the pliints sickly and unsatisfactory.
H. Bdla has been in cultivation more than thirty
years, and might be expected to be in almost ev-
ery collection of plants; but such is by no means
the case, for there are many gardens of more than
ordinary pretentions where it is not grown. This
neglect of a beautiful plant is strange, for when
its delicate, wax-like IJowei-s, with their rich pur-
ple central ray, are fully expanded, the plant is
uniMvalled. The neat trusses of flowers are in-
valuable for cutting when something particular-
ly choice is required.
Mr. EUwanger's New Book. Mr. George H.
EUwanger of Rochester, N. Y., has recently
written a useful volume entitled " The Garden
Story" which is a welcome addition to the hor-
ticultural literature of the day. Touching as it
does on the beauty, poetry and use of hundreds
of ornamental trees, shrubs and plants, it is as re-
gards comprehensiveness just such a work as
one should expect to emanate from the near
atmosphere of the most extensive all-around
nursery in the country, namely the Mount Hope
of Rochester. The author's aim has been to pre-
sent a simple outline of hardy flower-gardening,
rather than a formal treatise or text-book of
plants— to stimulate a love for amateur garden-
ing that may be carried out by all who are willing
to bestow upon it that meed of attention it so
bountifully repays. Still we could not but wish
that the fact of Americans being as a class but
learners, often very ignorant, in the field of orna-
mental horticulture had been more kept in mind
by the accomplished author, and that the simple
principles of selection, arrangement and cul-
tui-e of plants had received more attention in
detail in the story. Much practical information
is given it is true, but this in general being
scattered is not in the best shape for the average
learner, to avail himself of. The following
"garden syllabus " as the author styles it, strikes
us so favorably that we present it verbatim, I.
Wliatever is worth growing at all is worth grow-
ing well. II. Study soil and expense, and cul-
tivate no more space than can be maintained in
perfect 01-der. III. Plant thickly; it is easier and
more profitable to raise rtowei*s than weeds. IV.
Avoid stiffness and exact balancing; garden
vases and garden flowei-s neet not necessarily be
used in pairs. V. A flower is essentially femi-
nine and demands attention as the price of its
smiles. VI. Let there be harmony and beauty
of color; majenta in any form is a discord that
should never jar. VII. In studying color-effects
do not overlook white as a foil ; white is the lens
of the gardener's eye. VIII. Think twice and
still think before placing a tree, shrub or plant
in position. Think twice before removing a
specimen tree. IX. Grow an abundance of
flowers for cutting ; the bees and butterflies are
not entitled to all the spoils. X. Keep on good
terms with your neighboi-s; you may wish a
large garden favor of him some day. XL Love
a flower in advance, and plant something new
every year. XTI. Show me a welt-ordered gar-
den and I will show you a genial home. The Gar-
den Story is from the press of D. Appleton & Co.,
New York. Uhi-strated, 345 pages.
New York Floral Notes.
Since autumn flowers came in, the streets have
been full of Golden Rod and Asters, Carduial
flowers. Wood Lilies, and the like. Indeed, the
florists are not above using these same flowers,
for people ask for them; wild flowers are in favor
now-a-days. At many out-of-town entertain-
ments—there are no entertainments in the city
just now — decorations of wild flowers have been
arranged with much affect. Some very pretty
luncheon decorations have been made of Golden
Rod, the centre being a bed of these flowers,
mingled with grasses, while loosely-tied sprays
formed the favors.
The best large Roses sent in during midsummer
were Mrs. John Laing. This variety seems ad-
mirable for summer blooming. Baskets filled
entirely with it are very fine; they are usually
French baskets about thi-ee feet high, with a
high handle.
Some of the florists do not seem to care whether
they decorate their windows or not during the
dull season (rather a mistake), but in some cases
a good effect is produced with very few flowers.
One pretty window contained a bank of Begonia
Rex, fringed with Adiantum. Behind this was
a row of Lilium auratum, backed by Palms. On
another occasion the showy blue Agapanthua
was used, instead of L. auratum.
Gladiolus, Milla biflora and other Cape bulbs
are seen a great deal; they dress a window well,
though they are not likely to bring large prices.
Another showy thing seen quite often this season
is that showy herbaceous Sunflower, Helianthus
multiflorus tV) It really is a handsome thing,
with a flower like a golden <^hina Aster. The
foliage is fine, too. It is a very handsome thing
in the mass, not so coarse as the ordinary, old-
fashioned Sunflower.
Summer-blooming Orchids have steadily held
their own, for any fine work. The scarcity of
Floiveriiig Shoot of the Dwarf Wax Plant "'Bella.'"
really good Roses through the hot weather prob-
ably had something to do with their use; not
that Orchids are not popular and admired among
those who can afford to pay for them, but they
will never supplant Roses — always a favorite
flower. Orchids have a field of their own; they
will become more and more popular, no doubt,
but they will never drive other flowers out of
the market.
The new white Gladioluses will, no doubt,
prove popular in funeral work, coming, as they
do. when good pale-tinted flowers are scarce.
Gladiolus of all kinds sold fairly well this
summer, rich reds being preferred ; next to them
ranked the very pale ones. Undecided, medium
shades did not sell so well.
The foreign exodus has been exceptionally
large this year ; consequently the steamer trade
for the florists was large.
Boxes of cut-flowei-s disputed favor with bas-
kets or bouquets There is no question that a box
of fine flowers is a much more popular gift than
any sort of design. Occasionally the florist is
asked to put the flowers in some ornamental box
covered with silk and be-sashed with ribbon, but
as a rule, people of refinement are iiuite satisfied
with a neat pasteboard box well filled with choice
flowers. To fill one of these gift boxes well, so
that the full beauty of the flowers is shown on
first opening, is as great an art as to fill a basket.
Salvia is seen a good deal this autumn, arranged
in bowls or jars where some bold effect is needed.
Trade in Palms and decorating plants is quite
brisk this autumn, the demand being for good
stuff only. Some of the small conifers in pots
have been used with good effect in decorating
mortuary chambers; many of them, such as Cy-
press, Retinosporas and Spruce are especially
graceful and suitable for such work. For ordin-
ary room decoration, well-grown golden Retin-
ospora is extremely pretty.
A pretty supper decoration at a countiy Ger-
man consisted of vivid scarlet Geranium flowers
and Ferns. The German favors were entirely
garden and field flowers, little nosegays tied up
with all colors of narrow ribbons for the ladies,
and little boutonniers for the men. At a seaside
ball a rather novel idea in wall decoration was
noted. Golden Rod and Cat Tails were mingled
in bunches and placed in the straw holders in
which wine bottles are packed. These were hung
on the wall by ribbons. These holders might be
utilized by the florists. Very few corsage bunches
are seen on the street, when flowers are worn
now they are simply a single spray or cluster
tucked in the gown. Men's boutonnieres, how-
ever, seem to increase in size.
Showy many-colored double Poppies are ad-
mired for informal arrangements in cut flowers.
A big bowl of them is sometimes seen on the
luncheon table, or they are arranged in groujjs
of showy foliage.
Emily Louise Taplin.
H
POPULAR GARDENINQ.
October,
FRoH
TOE
SOCIETIES
lEIWMATTERTllA'I DBXtRVE*
TO BfrWlDEl.YKHOWM#
Talman Sweet as Stock.
The Talman Sweeting Api-ile
a good stock for top-
grafting.— Dr. Oioen, Mtchi-
1 tiaii Bnrl. Society.
Newtown Pippin. By a
liberal use of lime and ashes.
I have succeeded in grow-
ing the Newtown Pippin.— I>r. Given, Michigaii
Hiirt.Sociity.
Flowers as Educators. I think those who cul-
tivate flowers are far more apt to clean up the
rubbish, cut the briars and straighten the
fences. -Ho?-nfIst»iHc Farmers' Club.
Cherry Caltore. Mr. Carpenter says a general
mistake is made in not planting Cherry trees deep
enough in setting them out. Mr. Day says over-
productiim injures many Cherry trees, making
them short-lived.— A'eftraska State Hort. Society.
Life of Peach Trees, Peach trees live from
twelve to fifteen years, some twenty yeare on
very heavy soil. An old Peach orchard cannot
be renovated, for the young trees would die in
the second or third year, as the old trees seem to
sap all the vitality of the soil.- Gfr(i?id River
Valley Hort. Society.
Effects of Draining, I have begun the work
of tile-draining in this State ; my neighbors have
been skeptical. This season I have a yield of 60
bushels of shelled Corn to the acre, while my
neighbors have only 20 bushels, which is an eye-
opener to them.— Jesse B. Ross (" the Indiana
'rile and Drainaye Asmciat Ion.
The Vineyard Site. The evident lesson of the
frost of last 29th of May to vineyardist is to
plant vines in the most elevated, airy exposures.
Both as a protection from mildew and late frosts,
the importance of free, unobstructed ventila-
tion cannot easily be overestimated.— S. S.
Grissey, Chautauqua Hort. Society.
Making Cider, The way to make good cider is
as simple as it is supposed to be that of making
good bread by the good housewife. Take good,
sound, ripe Apples, wash them, grind and press
and store into clean, sound barrels. If barrels
are new, they should be soaked well to draw the
tannic acid out of the wood. Before filling, clear
the cider by repeated racking and exclude the air
from the cider all the time.— Ha (ry Ke.cne before
the Mi.fsimri State Ho7-tictdtui-al Society.
Fruits in Nebraska. Of Strawberries, none are
more successful than the proper intermingling of
Crescent and Capt. Jack or Jas. Vick. The Dwarf
.Tuneberry is coming into favor on account of its
hardiness and ease of cultivation. The Nebraska
Sand Cherry would seem to be a fruit worthy of
cultivation. It has been shown to increase in size
of bush and improve in size and quality of fruit
under cultivation. As yet no effort has been
made to make selections, and here it is believed
that a valuable field awaits the experimenter.-
Nebraska State Horticultural Society.
The Best Fertilizer, The fertilizer that every-
one engaged in small fruit culture should use,
and that extensively, is a judicious mixture of
brains and elbow grease. And it must be used
in the field, and manufactured on the spot. It
is of little value without it is applied every day
and e\ery hour in the day, from Ave o'clock in
the morning until nine at night during the
growing season ; in this way it is as efficacious as
a patent medicine ; it will develop the plants and
kill the weeds, it will keep the ground loose and
clean and destroy the insects and worms, in short
will make a success, when everything else will
fail. Try it.— i. H. Wilcox before Minnesota
State Hort. Society.
Orchard Care. You must keep an eye on your
orchard. Never trust to providence and your
hired hand, for a careless hand will do more
damage in an orchard than he will do good.
Keep all tramps out of the orchard that are
around after jobs of pruning. Let no man
I)rune in your orchard without you know he is a
skillful hand at the business. Wrap your trees
early in the fall to keep the rabbits from barking
the trees. The best material to use is screen
wire. It will keep the borers and mice away
from the trees as well as the rabbits. The wire
will cost about twenty-two cents per yard, and
one yard will make five guards.— Jfr. Schidiz be-
fore the MiKKourl State Hmi. Society.
Training Grapes. It is impossible to obtain
tine, large, perfect bimches, except from strong
canes, hence it is necessary to renew each year
from the base of the vine, and this is about one
of the hardest things a vineyardist has to ac-
complish. I believe that the vineyard of the
future will be managed as follows ; Instead of
planting vines 18x12 feet apart, they will be
planted 6x13 feet. One-half the viues will be
allowed to bear fruit, and the other half only be
allowed to raise young canes for next year's
bearing wood, alternating each year. I believe
by some such system finer fruit could be obtained
than by the usual process now pursued. — J. S.
Kidder before the Missouri State Hort. Society.
Depth of Draining, Drains well laid at a
depth of 3VJ feet, may be laid with much smaller-
sized tile than drains laid at a depth of two feet,
for the reason that the greater depth would
allow the e-xcess of water from heavy rainfalls
to pass down into the under soil and relieve the
surface soil, so that the ci-ops will not be dam-
aged ; and the smaller tiles will hold back the
flow of water, as compared with the larger sizes,
and cause a more general distribution of water
in the deep subsoils and clays. The effect of
deep-laid tile drains, using sizes only sufBcient
to remove the excess of water slowly, is to pre-
vent, to some extent, the rapid filling up of the
streams, rather than being the cause of floods.—
Indiana Tile and Drainage Association.
Cooking Fruits. Fresh fruits should be cooked
with boiling water. As sugar is rendered no
more soluble, palatable, digestible, or nutritious
by cooking and is, in the presence of some acids,
changed to glucose by heat, and consequently is
much less sweet, it should be added only long
enough to disolve nicely, before removing the
fruit from the fire. Dried fruit should be
washed and then soaked in cold water until no
longer wrinkled in appearance, but until it has
imbibed sufficient water to give the original
rounded form, then cooked slowly in the water
in which it was soaked. If cooked rapidly in
boiling water without first being soaked, the
cells are hardened by the heat and lose the power
of imbibing water and the fruit comes to the
table unsightly, unpalatable and indigestible. —
Clara S. Hays before the Min. State Hort. Society.
Apples for the British Market. The present
system of buying Apples in lots at one price,
without regard to the real value of the various
kinds, is very detrimental to the ultimate pros-
perity of Canadian farmers. In this way, people
would plant those kinds which yield the most
fruit, without regard to their value in the
foreign markets, a course which would ultim-
ately be found to be a most serious blunder. On
the other hand, by paying prices according to
the real value, planters would be led to grow
only those varieties which were most wanted.
The following is a scale of prices which should
be j)aid for the staple kinds of apples, in a season
when the Baldwin is worth $1.00 per barrel, viz :
— Ribston Pippin and Blenheim Pippin. $1.50;
King, SL.W ; Spy, J1.30 ; American Golden Bus-
set, gl.25. Greening, ?I.OO.— Prcs. A. McD. Allen
before the Ontario Fruit Qrouvrs^ Association.
Wild Flowers. The secret of the cultivation
of wild Howers is not to cultivate them. The
only attentiim that they will tolerate is a little
skillful hand weeding to prevent the encroach-
ment of grass and Clover and a little judicious
thinning to preserve the more delicate species
from being crowded by the more vigorous. They
cannot, therefore, be set out in flower borders
with Geraniums, Heliotropes and Verbenas, and
even if they would grow there, the juxtaposition
would not be favorable to the beauty of either.
The all important thing is to choo.se the situ-
ation. It is best if partially shaded and enriched
only by leaf-mold. I cannot exactly say with
Emerson : "My garden is a forest ledge," but
it is on the north side of a rather high Osage
Orange hedge, where the natural clay soil has
been deepened and mellowed for twenty years
with mold of the rapidly decaying leaves.
To this spot we have been for years in the habit
of transfering at any season in which we chance
to find them, all the beautiful and interesting
native flowering plants and Ferns indigenous to
the region. And verily we have our reward.
The "wfld garden" may not be so gay as the con-
tinguo\is Tulips, Pivonias or Hoses, but it has a
charm to which every visitor yields. Here, dur-
ing the first warm days of spring, we are greeted
by the opening buds of Hepatica, early Butter-
cups and Antennarias. Almost simultaneously
the Hloodrootspreads it evanescent, milky-white
blooms in company with the spring beauty of
the exquisite Dicentra, whose clusters of waxen
hearts crown the tufts of feathery, blue-green
foliage. To these succeed the Violets of nearly
all the Species occuring in this part of the state,
the drooping pink and blue bells of the Lung-
wort {Mertensia), and the still lovelier blue of
the Greek Valerian. The springtime succession
is kept up by the Crane Bills, Shooting Stars
(Dodeeatheon), Squills, Larkspurs, and numer-
ous less conspicious species. During the heats
of midsummer, the delicate white flowers of
Gillenia and Veronica mingle with Turk's cap
Lilies, Melanthium, Zygadenus and the glorious
Cardinal flower, crowned in a\itumn by a green
display of Asters, Golden Rod and other com-
posites. In this way, while we miss the indefin-
able chaiTu of searching out our wild favorites
in the nooks where nature establishes them, we
have the oppertunity of seeing much more of
them and noting many i)eeuliarities in their de-
velopment which might otherwise escape our
attention.— ilia»~y E. Murtfeldt before the Mis-
sotiri State Hort. Society.
Culture of Asparagus.
^Extract of Paper read by Cttas. W. Garfield before
the Michigan State Horticultural Society.]
A rich sandy loam— a piece of ground fit
to grow 75 bushels of shelled Corn per acre
—well drained, makes a good beginning for
an Asparagus field. I prefer to grow the
plants, sowing the seed early. Plants are
set three feet apart, in rows four feet apart,
but live feet is a better distance.
Two men can plant an acre in half a day, set-
ting the crowns of the plants five or six inches
below the level of the soil. It takes about 3,000
plants to the acre, in four feet rows. When the
planting is completed, the lines of plants will be
in the bottom of the furrows, which need not be
filled at once, but during the season cultivation
will gradually level the soil, and the process of
weed extermination is greatly aided by leaving
the furrows open at the outset. Clean cultiva-
tion is given during the growing year, and in
October the tops are mowed off and burned. A
dressing of twenty cords of fine manure is then
given, and the plantation plowed lightly, say
four inches in depth, lea\ing the ground rough
during the winter. In early spring, as soon as
the land can be worked, the smoothing harrow
is put over the ground, and in older plantations
this is followed by the planer, which leaves the
surface as even as a floor. The expense of grow-
ing Asparagus Is about ^100 per acre, up to the
second spring after planting, and results in a
net profit of $100 an acre, which is not a large
profit when the time retjuired to get the planta-
tion into bearing, the investment, and the skill
are considered.
The great advantage is that the work and the
money come in early, at a time when the former
does not interfere with other duties. The cut-
wonn is the worst insect foe, but by stirring the
soil in the spring, and autum plowing, its ravages
are considerably reduced. The shoots are
broken off when gathering, instead of cutting.
The ends are squareil with a knife after bunch-
ing ; and rubber bands are used for biuiching.
The plantation should not be weakened by too
prolonged cutting.
Two exigencies have materially reduced profits
with me. First, untimely frosts, which may in
one night destroy a full picking, which upon an
acre may mean from twelve to twenty dollars.
To avoid this I contemplate giving a surface
dressing with shavings manure in the spring,
which can be hauled over the shoots, which are
just breaking the earth, in an emergency, at
slight cost, and save the picking.
Second, a dry, hard wind sometimes arises
when a cutting of Asparagus is nearlj' ready.
The sand blown against the tender shoots
punctures the epidermis, and checks growth on
that side. In a few hours the shoots will turn
over and be so unshapely as to lie unmarketable.
Management of Small Fruits for
Profit.
i Extract of jtai>cr read by J.N. Stearns before ttic
Michigan State Horticultural Society.)
One great mistake I have frequently
made is trying to get too many crops of
small fruit from a single planting, and I
find tliis one of the hardest mistjikes for
the horticulturist to correct.
1889.
POPULAR GARDENING.
15
When we hiive jrnne to the execss of titting
and plantintr u phit for lierries, we often yield to
the temptation to eoutiniie thi? plantation as
lonir as there is any show for a fair crop, when
our experience and better judgement teaches us
it is not a profltablc thinir to do.
I am satistied that in the lonji run it pays bet-
ter to fruit a Stniwberry plantation but imce,
planting; a new plat on new ({round every year.
We get much finer fruit the tirst crop, and line
fniit is what helps to build up a reputation for
your husiness. which an inferior crop, from a
second or tliirtl season's picking, minht go far to
destroy. Secondly, we are much more liiible to
breed injurious insects, and. thirdly, it is but
little more work to plant and care for a new
plantation than it is to properly clean out an
old one after fruiting.
I would advise for field culture, that plants be
set three and one-half feet apart, each way, and
cultivate both ways, gradually narrowing the
cultivator as the hills spread. Give thorough
cultivation as long as weeds grow, and mulch as
soon as the ground is frozen bard. I find great-
est profit in late varieties, holding them back in
spring, by leaving mulch on as late as it can be
safely done.
Assort in picking, putting nothing but No.
1 fruit in first grade. "Watch closely that no
picker squeezes or bruises the fruit in picking.
With the at>ore management, I never have had
occasion to complain of unprofitable prices.
With the Kaspberry. I do not think it will pay
to continue the plat longer than for three full
crops, and the Blackberry for five. And what I
have said above regarding insects and disease,
will apply with still greater force with these.
One of the most important points to make
these fruits profitable is thorough culture in the
early part of the season. I have in mind a good
illustration of this fact in two places joining.
For the last three years I have observed these
plats. One has been given thorough cultivation
all through the early part of the season, and
none after the fruit was harvested, while the
other was neglected until the ground was very
dry, and then cultivation was continued until
late in the season. The latter has never pro-
duced a remunerative crop of fruit, while the
former has never failed to do so.
I pinch or cut off the young growth when
about -^ feet high, and do no side pinching or
pruning until the following spring, at which
time the black varieties are headed in, leaving
branches about a foot long. The Snyder Black-
berry should be headed in much closer than
Lawton. Kittatinny or Taylor.
Hardy Ornamental Shrubs for Car-
dens, Lawns and Hedges.
I Paper read by Jackson Dawson, gardener al the
Arnold Arboretum, be/ere the Massachusetts Horticul-
tural Society.} Continued from page 263.
The species of Euonymuit are all orna-
metital in fruit, but their flowers are incon-
spicuous. E. atioinirpurcux is an Ameri-
can species, with rich scarlet fruit. E.
Amcricanus, \a.T. ohnviitHK, is a low-grow-
ing species, good for covering embankments
or any other purpose where a low growing
species is required. Of E. Europaus there
are many varieties, with white, yellow,
purple and scarlet fruits, all of which are
highly ornamental in the fall. E. rcrrn-
cosus is a small .shrub, with warty
branches. E nanug is an excellent plant,
where a dwarf one is required ; the autumn
and winter foliage is ot a rich brown, which
makes it very effective for winter work.
E. alittns is a fine variety from .Japan, with
winged bark. E. radicans and its variety
are excellent for covering rocks or fences,
clinging almost as well as Ivy.
Of the Bitter-sweets, Celwitrua scajiden-s, our
native species, and C. punctatus and C. panicu-
latiui^ from Japan, are all rapid-growing
climbers, well suited to cover screens or un-
sightly buildings, and their orange and scarlet
fruit is very ornamental in autumn.
Of the Buckthorns, Rhammts a I pin us has the
best foliage; R. catfmrtica is useful as a hedge
plant, and R. Frangula is ornamental on ac-
count t)f its continuous blooming, which gives
the plant a peculiar character, it t»ing covered
with flowers, green, red and black fruit during
the summer.
Ceanothux <jvali» from Vermont is a neat low
shrub, with white flowers in June; C Ameri-
ca »«.< blooms a mouth hiter; both are valuable
in dry soils.
The different species ot wild Grapes are of
great value in covering up unsightly buildings
or walls: Vititt Lattrusca, trstivatis^ cordift)lia
and liparia are the most hardy. In the Am-
pelopsis section we have --i. (luimiuefolia and its
varieties, one of which, .-1. Eiiglcmanui, has
sucking tendrils like .1. Veitchii : A.heterophylla
and its varities, ac^mitifolia and serJauifcfiiUa
have blue berries.
.Esculun macrnstaehya is a fine late-flowering
shrub, with spikes of white flowers.
XanthoceraH snrbifulia is very curious in
bloom, but short lived.
All the species of Rhus are fine for large
clumps or embankments, and when cut within
an inch or two of the ground every year make
a verj- tropical appearance. R. glabra, var.
tatiniata has fine fern-like foliage. R. copalltjia
is one of the finest for autumn coloring. R. ven-
enata and R. Tnricoflendrvn are well known as
the Poison Sumach and Poison Ivy. R, aroma-
tica is one of the finest coverings for banks ;
when once established it will giow in the poorest
of soils. R. Cotinus, the smoke tree, is a well-
known shrub, with mist-like flowers. R. semi-
alata Osbeeki is a fine large-growing shrub from
China, with large heads of white flowers in late
summer.
Of Cytisus we have cupitatu^, with round
heads of yellow bloom, and (', nigricans,, with
long loose spikes of light lemon-colored blos-
soms, which appear about the flret of July. ('
ehingatiu'i biflonu* has round heads of flowers
during the early summer.
Of Amorpha we have fruteseens and its many
varieties, all of which are coarse flowering
shrubs with bluish purple flowers. A . canescens,
the Lead plant seldom exceeds two feet in
height ; it has spikes of very blue flowers and
pretty foliage.
The Wistarias are all fine climbing plants, well
adapted to the purposes that climbers are used
for. Ot these we have Chhiensis and the variety
alba andflore pletio brachybotrys and muttijuga.
In Robinias we have R. vi,^cosa, the Clammy
Locust, with pinkish white flowers in June, and
R. hispida, the Rose Acacia, with long clusters of
pink blossoms, which flower at intervals all sum-
mer. There are several varieties of this old-
fashioned shrub, the difference being chiefly in
the size of the flowers.
The Colutea or Bladder Senna, is very orna-
mental, and if well pruned will continue in
bloom most of the season ; the seed pods are
also very interesting. C. arbwescens has dark-
brown and yellow flowers, and there are several
varieties whose flowers vary from orange to
pale lemon color.
Halimodendron argentea is a neat shrub from
Asiatic Russia, with clusters of purple flowers in
June ; it forms a handsome plant when grafted
on Caragana arboresccn.'i.
The Ca'-aganas are a very ornamental class of
shrubs from China, Siberia and Dalmatia— all
perfectly hardy and free flowering. The species
are arboresccns and its varietj" pcndida and aren-
aria ; all the varieties of arhorescens attain
a good size C. fi-ute.icens and its variety grandi-
ftora are medium-sized shrubs, with bright yel-
low flowers. The low species are C. aUagana,
Chandagnf, pygmcea and spinnsa. The last is
well adapted for small hedges on account of its
long thorny branches. The dwarf and trailing
species make nice heads when grafted high on
C, arbr/re^ens.
In the Plum family we have a large variety to
choose from, all more or less beautiful, and
many exceedingly handsome.
The Kansas sand Plum, said to be a variety of
Prumis anguslifulia, is a neat low shrub from
two to four feet high, and is densely covered
with white flowers in early spring, which are
followed by yellow, red and nearly purple fruit
in abundance. This species should attract the
attention of our fruit growers, as it begins to
bear when less than eighteen inches high. P.
emarginata from Callfomia, is very similar to
our wild red Cherry. P. Pennxylvanica,P.Tirgin-
iana and a variety with semi-double flowers are
worth a place in the garden.
The Siberia Apricot, P. Sibirica, stands well
here, and is a fine, sturdy plant, very striking
even when out of leaf, on account of its curious
colored bark.
The varietiesof P. Pereica arc short lived when
budded on the Peach, but are very handsome.
They make neat plants and live much longer
when worked on the Plum.
Prunwi Pissardi is a good addition to our gard-
ens when purple foliage is required.
Pninux Simnni is a fastigiate tree, with light
rose-colored flowers and large purple fruits like
an Apricot.
P. T>avidiana is a species with rose-colore<l
flowers, from China.
Pmnus A mei^c^ana and its varieties are beauti-
fiil in early spring; they are adapted to large
shrubberie-s, but by judicious i>runing can be
kept at any desired height.
Of Pntmi,* pnmila we ha\e two forms, one
from the Greek Lakes, with willow-like foliage,
growing five or six feet high, covered in spring
with small white flowers, and in summer with
black, cherry-like fruit.
Our common variety of p. pumila seldom ex-
ceeds three feet in height ; liesides its flowering
quality it is one of the finest plants for autumn
coloring ; it might also be improved as a fruit.
Pninu.^ spinosa anil its variety .flore p?*'«o, and
P. Myniholima and its varieties, are all hardy.
P. tomcntO!<a is a fine rose and white flowered
species, from the mountains near Pekin.
Pmnus triloba is well known by all, but its
single variety has not been in this country until
a few years ago ; by the lovers of single flowers
it will be considered a great acquisition.
The double-flowering Almonds. Prunus Japn-
niea alba, rosea, and mttltiplej: are all good
shrubs, hardy, but short lived.
Pruniin pendula, when well grown, makes a
handsome plant for the lawn. Pritnus charnce-
eerasus is grafted either on standards or low on
the ground ; usually the former, but when
grafted low it forms a much more effective
plant. P. semperflorens continues in bloom
more or less all summer.
The double-flowering Cherries, of different
varieties, are well worth a place in the garden.
In the section of Spira"as we have good
material to choose from. S. salicifolia is the
parent of many garden varieties, such as Billar-
dierii, Leneana, latifolia, rosea, Bethlehemensis,
and others. These, if pruned well back every
spring will throw flower spikes twice the size of
those not pruned.
Spiroea Dougla»sii is a beautiful species from
the Northwest ; this also has a number of very
showy varieties. &'. chama^drifolia and its
variety are a good flowering kinds.
Spira-a millefolium, a curious rare species
from Nevada and S. predia, and its varieties are
the earliest species, except Thunbergii, which is
one of the finest plants for foliage or flowers.
Spirua hypericifoUa and S. conna are early
bloomers. S. trilobata and S. Van Houttei are
two of the best late-flowering species. S. Japo-
Hi'ca has long been known as callnsa and foi-
tunei. They are all late bloomers, and if the old
flower heads are cut off as soon as out of bloom,
thej' will on good ground bloom well the second
time. S. Sorbifolia and *'. Tobolski are good
showy plants, with large spikes of pure white
flowers in June.
A sub-section of the Spirieas are the NeHlioji.
The species opwli/oiio and its variety aiirca, are
coarse growing shrubs with white flowers A^.
.4mwreH^(!* is a flne, bold growing species from
Northern Asia.
Exochorda grandiflora is one of the most
magnificent of our hardy shrubs.
Rhodotypus Ken-imdes, with white flowers and
chocolate-colored seed, is a good old shrub.
Of the Rubus there are several species worthy
of a place in the garden ; these are Rubus odnr-
ahig, the Red-flowering Raspberry, and R. delici-
osu.% the Rocky Mountain Raspberry; the flowers
of the latter are pure white, two inches across.
This has never been plentiful, as it is difficult to
propagate.- R.villosus ftwcpieno is rather coarse,
but the flowers are quite show.v. R hispidus
and R. Canadensis are useful to cover the
ground, where few other plants wUI grow.
Xeriusa Alabamensis is a rare shrub, with
white flowers in June.
Polentilla tridentata is a neat, low-growing
species with white flowers. P. fruticosa has
yellow flowers in abundance most all summer.
(To be Continued.)
Something about New Grapes.
[Extract of paper read by Geo.. W. Campbell before
American Nurserymen's Convention ]
So many varieties have been brought for-
ward with extravagant and extraordinary
claims which have not been sustained,
that the careful and practical Grape grower
views with many grains of doubt, if not of
1 6
POPULAR GARDENING.
October,
suspicion, the new Grape which is offered
as " earlier than the Hartford; as healthy
and as hardy as the C-oncord; better than
the Delaware; and whose fniit never rots
and foliage never mildews." By claiming
too much, introducers of new Grapes have
often misled and disappointed a generous,
and perhaps too confiding public.
We have been striving for the perfect li rape
suitetl to all localities. We have not found it,
and we probably ne\er shall. But we have
varieties, that with intt'lliyrent care succeed ad-
mirably in particular localities, and are grown
with both pleasure and profit to their owners.
The Niayara firape is comparatively new; and
although it is not found adapted to very general
cultivation, is still one of the most profitable and
valuable for such localities as are suited to its
requirements. It has not proved as early, or as
hardy as represented by its introducers; neither
has it been more exempt from mildew of foliage
or rot of its fruit than the average. But its vig-
orous growth and abundant bearing, with quality
and appearance good enough to satisfy the mass
of buyers and consumers, render it one of the
new Grapes worthy to be retained and recom-
mended, wherever it can be successfully grown.
The Empire State is a formidable competitor
for public favor with the Niagara. It is about
equal to it in vigor of growth, probably little, if
any hardier in severe winters, but within my ex-
perience has better foliage, much less disposed
to mildew; in productiveness, usually somewhat
less than the Niagara, but to my taste, in quality
greatly its superior.
Moore's Diativmd. A still later introduction,
with me appeal's no hardier or healthier in vine
or foliage than the Empire State. About the
same in vigor of growth, but not as productive,
with bunches and berries somewhat smaller. In
quality distinct and pure flavored, but not bet-
ter. Another new white Grape of the Labrusca
class, as yet but little known, originated at Col-
umbus, Ohio, and named " Witt," after its orig-
inator, by the Ohio State Horticultural Society,
has the merit of hardiness and health of foliage,
and is fairly productive of handsome clusters of
good size and fine quality. It is doubtless a Con-
cord seedling, and resembles the Martha in foli-
age and habit of growth, but its bunches and
berries are much larger and its quality and flavor
apparently much better.
The Wominiff' Red originated near Ann Arbor,
Michigan, and is claimed to be a Concord seed-
ling. It seems to ha\'e all the vigorous growth,
health and hardiness of its reputed parent, and
to have all the requisites for a popular and valu-
able Grape, as nearly suited to general cultiva-
tion as any variety new or old yet produced. It
bears abundantly, producing berries and clusters
of the largest size, bright and attractive in color
and ripening with or a little earlier than Concord.
It is, however, a variety pronounced in charac-
ter, and distinct in flavor, a pleasant mixture of
sweet and vinous acid, with also somewhat of the
" native aroma " called foxiness, which to the
many, when not in excess, is an added charm,
and to the few an "unpleasantness." I have long
ago ceased to dispute or quarrel about matters
of individual taste; yet I do think the Woodruff
has more of the characteristics of a popular and
valuable variety for general planting for market
and for profit than any other red Grape within
my knowledge. I would therefore plant it for
the nineteen who are satisfied with and like it,
and let the twentieth seek something else.
The Eaton is another new Grape, black in
color, and I believe is called a Concord seedling.
It somewhat resembles the Woodruff in vigorous
growth and healthy foliage. As I have seen and
tested it on several occasions, it has less of sweet-
ness and also of " native aroma; " its juice being
rather thin and acid. It is, however, large both
in bunch and berry, quit*:' showy and attracti^'c
in appearance, and perhaps good enough to be
popular and profitable for market and general
use. A black Grape of entirely different char-
acter is the Jewel, originated by John Uurr of
X^eavenworth, Kansas, which has been highly
commended in some sections. The vine is of the
Labrusca character, hardy in winter, with healthy
foliage, in general habit much like the Early
Victor. It ripens a little before Moore's Early;
is very proiiuctive; berries and clusters only
medium, about the size of the Delaware or a
little larger; skin thin, but tenacious, will carry
well. Flavor pleasant and sprightly, n()t foxy.
It has small seeds, and though a little pulpy, is
not acid or coarse at the center. Its rather small
size and only moderate growth are its only faults;
and though to my taste not.as some have claimed,
as good as Delaware, it is the best in quality of
any very early ripening black Grape I have seen.
The Moyer is a new CJrape from Canada. As I
have grown it, it is not as vigorous as the Dela-
ware, though the foliage appears rather thicker,
and better able to resist mildew. I fear the size
of the clusters is smaller than Delawares, and
its claim for extreme earliness .seems to be its
])rominent recommendation. Another red Grape
of something of the same character, named by its
originator, Marifs Favorite 1 1 am not informed
whether it is to be propagated and offered for
sale), appeal's to have merits above many Grapes
that are now on our lists. The DowniiXQ Grape,
which was originated by Mr. Kickettssome years
ago, has been lately introduced by Mr. Burrow,
of Fishkill, N. Y. Although it is said to have
been successful in some places in New York, I
have found.it unusually subject to mildew of foli-
age, and unsuited to open culture in my locality.
The Mills Grape the past season failed to ripen
its wood, bj' reason of mildew of foliage, which
fell prematurely, and I should class it with the
Downing, as only desirable for amateur culture
in specially favorable situations. The t7(s(er
Prolific, originated by the late A. J. Caywood,
has some claims for consideration, and will prob-
ably be found useful in many localities, for its
hardiness and productiveness, with good quality
of fruit and healthy foliage. The vine is of mod-
erate growth, berries and clusters medium, color
rather dark brownish red. The Nectar, first
called Black Delaware, by the same originator-
is offered for sale, but I can only report vigor-
ous gi'owth and healthy foliage. Francis B.
Hayen, by the originator of Moore's Early, is
healthy and of the Concord character, in growth
much like Martha, and also in size and appear-
anceof its fruit, but ripening earlier, less foxy,
and better in quality. I do not think it is as good,
however, or as promising for general use as the
Witt Grape or the Colcraiii. another white Con-
cord seedling of similar character, which origin-
ated in Belmont County, t.)hio.
I think our most popular Giapes need improve-
ment. We need a Grape having all the general
characteristics of the Concord or Worden, with
a more tenacious skin, which will bear handling
and shipping with less injur.v with also better
quality and better keeping qualities. We need
also a Delaware with more vigorous growth,
larger fruit and healthier foliage. Or if we could
have a Grape like the Delaware, borne upon a
vine having the character of the Concord for
health of foliage and adaptability to different
soils and locations, every Grape grower would at
once recongnize its immense importance.
American Florists in Convention at
Buffalo. Valuable Papers.
ExPERi.MEST Garden. John Thorpe
made an earnest appeal for the establish-
ment of an Experiment Garden where
seeds, implements, insecticides, etc., can
be tested. It should contain from 5 to 12
acres, be equipped with best buildings and
have at the head a man of integrity and
ability. Such an establishment would re-
qtiire a first outlay of about ■?2.5.000 to
-*;W,000, and could be maintained at an an-
nual expense of ?.5,000 to .*7,000. It would
save thousands upon thousands of dollars
to the florists. For instance there are a
number of boilers on exhibit in the lower
hall, but the committee of awards is un-
able to decide on their merits. In an Ex-
periment Garden they could be tested, and
the best would win. Mr. Henderson says
such an establishment should be national,
not sectional. The society adopts a motion
that a committee be appointed, to i)ut this
matter in shape and petition Congress for
an adequate appropriation.
Qualifications for Manaoers. Mr. Hen-
derson says that the manager of a florist's estab-
lishment ought to have an .Vmerican experience.
The conditions here are so different from those
in Europe, that much of the European experi-
ence has to be unlearned. Long special training,
however, is not always necessary to success; but
the pei'son must have a natural adaptation for
the business, and some originality. A mere im-
itator will m)t do.
For head gardener in a private place a Europ-
ean training may be of advantage. Such a per-
son Ls u.sually an all around man— good in fruits,
flowers vegetables, on the lawn, etc. Much re-
sponsibility is placed upon his shoulders, so he
must be a patient man, and expect little reward
for his labors.
The florist in a public institution or the super-
intendent of public parks and grounds must be
a landscape gardener and an artist. He must
understand drainage, laying out of lawns and
walks, be well versed in nomenclature, and pos-
sess knowledge obtained by years of experience.
The Street Fakir Mr. F. M. Huntsman has
sent a paper in which he tries to answer the
query " Is the sale of flowers in the streets of
large cities an injury to the general business of
the stores'/ " There are different grades of cus-
tomers in flowers, he says, as well as in other
businesses. Each sectional trade represents an
altogether different class of buyer, and there is
ample room for all.
Prices Naturally Fluctuate. Mr. Vaughan
replies to the question "Is the practice of ad-
\'ancing prices on special occasions of benefit"/ "
in the affirmative. Ileal cau.se for complaint
might be found in the practice of putting halt-
grown Uoses, and poor specimens of flowers gen-
erallj', on the market during a heavy demand.
This demoralizes the market. Common logic
teaches that fluctuation in prices is justified or
demanded by the conditions of the market.
Hetailers' Profits. Mr. John Westcott says
that 100 per cent over cost is about the right gen-
eral basis for prices in conducting a retail cut
flower trade. The man who intends to sell cheap
will find himself left in the end. The retailer
should handle the best he can get and buy as low
as he can . In early part of winter there is little
or no profit for him. Later he gets the same
price, and buying much cheaper, he does well.
Co-operation .Mr. J. D. Reynolds, in response
to the question "How can local clubs and the
national society best work together to promote
their common interests'/" points to co-operation
between them as so good a thing that we want
more of it. In many ways, however, the two in-
terests are not in common. The city florists'
club has many members who are retailers as well
as growers. The only common ground where all
can meet is in the exhibition halls.
Division of Labor. For the florist in a small
town (one having not more than .50,000 inhabit-
ants) Mr. Wm. Scott sees no objection to engag-
ing in the hardy plant and shrub business for
lawn decoration. For large towns, especially
those having more than a quarter million i>eople,
the growers should attend to their specialties.
Starting in a Small Town. A paper sent by
Mr. A. Gideon deals with the question " In what
way can a florist most successfully start in a
country town?" Mr. Gideon says that a young
man with skill and push, and with a capital of
$2,000 might safely embark in business in a town
having two or three thousand inhabitants. He
should put up two or three houses, heated by
steam or water, and stock it with a good general
assortment of plants; keep stock in good shape,
sell at reasonable prices, and treat customers
kindly. After a while he will do a thriving busi-
ness. One of the members, Mr. Gray, however,
thinks otherwise, and criticises the paper very
severely as misleading. He considers it very
risky to start such a business in a town of the size
named.
Bl.\ck Spot of the Rose. Mr. C. P. Anderson
states that he has not discovered any treatment
that is a remedy or cure. It is a most fatal dis-
MR. PALMER'S FUMIGATING GUTTER.
ease, and almost all out-door Roses become
affected with it more or less. He thinks there
will be a time when it will be impossible to grow
a Rose out doors. European growei'S complain
of the same trouble. The cause seems to be
purely atmospheric, and he cannot suggest any-
thing for it.
Uejieuv for Cut W<irm. A simple way of
disposing of the cut worm in potting soil is ex-
plained by Mr. J. D. Carmody. The soil is put
in sheet iron pans and cooked. This treatment
leaves no live grub, worm or weed seed. On a
large scale the same object is accomplished b>'
placing a coil of steam pipe in a largh shallow
box or vat of either metal or plank, and charging
this with the soil to be treated. It can thus be
cooked in an hour, when it is read.v to be taken
1889.
POPULAR GARDENING.
17
out, anil uuothcr clinrRC to be put in. A mera-
iK-r sfntos that it is sulllcient to put the soil
mi'ivly on a system of steam pipes i>lace<l <liix-ctly
upon tho level sfrouml.
A«.vvWniiTHK Faoed I!ia)OM. The newly
oleeteil piisident, Mr. Jordan, calls particular
attention to it, tliat in order to prolong the season
of plants which seeti freely, the tlowers should
lie picked clean, no matter whether they can lie
utili«'d for sale or are in excess. Hollyhocks,
for instance, when thus treated, oui be kept in
bloom until (ictolnr. This is also the case with
t^wiH't Peas and other tlowers.
SrMMEK lli.ooMKRS. Mr. A. E Whittle gave a
list of sinnraer bloomintr plants which can be put
to )?ood use by the florist for cut llowers. Ex-
tract of paper will be given later on.
Aphis in Gkeenuousk. Vice-iiresident Pal-
mer of Bufifalo explained his new method of pre-
venting aphis by evaporating Tobacco tea. Tin
troughs, or guttei-s, one inch wide and high, and
18 inches long, provided with a six inch strip of
tin near each of the lower corners, are placed
upon the steam or hot water pipes, about 20 feet
apart, and fastened upon them by simply bend-
ing the strips around the pipes, as shown in illus-
tration. These gutters are kept constantly filled
with the Tobacco tea, made by putting a barrel
half full of stems, and tilling it up with water.
The vapors constantly produced from the gut-
ters, although npither inconvenient to people,
nor injurious to plants, are entirely sufficient to
keep the hcmse free from aphis, and Mr. Palmer
has seen no necessity of resorting to the always
inconvenient, and sometimes injurious practice
of fumigating since adopting this new method.
Water Gas for Florists' Use.
Paper by J. T. Tcmph', read before the Ameriean So-
ciety of FtortAts )
The subject of e.xperiments with water
gas tor florists' use, is one of great Interest,
but yet in a rather crude state. -\t the pre-
sent time I do not know any instance where
it is in use by florists. Florists who use
natural gas, know how clean it is, and also
the little attention it requires. It is the
same with water gas. The expense of leav-
ing mains to supply Indtvlduals is the great
obstacle to its general use.
There are two kinds of water gas, one for illu-
minating and the other for fuel. Water gas for
Uluminting in various localities, costs from BO
cents to il.m. water gas for fuel costs from 10
cent* to 30 cents per 1,000 feet. Owing to its be-
ing inodorous it has been sometimes deluted
with something to give it a scent, otherwise it
might cause great damage through leakage.
Since last January, I have been watching experi-
ments made at a neighbor's, who at a cost of 80
cents for 24 hours heated a boiler containing BO
gallons of water ui 2) minutes to boiling heat
with illuminating gas and kept it at that temper-
ature for 3i hours without further attention.
The same boiler with fuel gas at 30 cents per
1,1X10 feet did the same work at a cost of 22 cents
per 24 hours. I h:ive also been watching experi-
ments in a foundry where the fuel gas was made
with water and naptha to give it greater heat
and found it gives them satisfaction, but the ex-
pense is too great for florists' use. It is expected
as the result of experiments by Westinghouse
and others, that water gas for fuel will in the
near future superc-ede coal and natural gas, and
at less expense.
CONDENSED GLEANINGS.
Development of Colors in Plants. Prof. Sorby
tells us that all the colors of plants are simple
modifications of ordinary green coloring— or
chlorophyl— of the leaves; this green coloring be-
ing the practical working color of the plant, and
all other hues are formed out of it by oxidiza-
tion, and sene some definite object or use. H(jw
this development takes place from the lowest, or
working color, green, to the highest specialised
color, viz., blue, will be best shown in the accom-
panying diagram, by the circular arrow. Some-
times yellow flowers become white and after-
wards tinged with red and purple, without pass-
mg through the orange [stage as many others
normally do. In reference to this diagram let us
remember that the Hellebores and Buttercups
var.v from green to yellow; Zinnias and other
flowers from yellow and orange to red, and the
Forget-me-not and Comf reys very often show all
the gradations of color from red t« blue— their
flowere opening rod in the bud stage, and finally
pa.ssing to blue at their full development. The
chemical changes which lake place.in the chloro-
phyll as exposed to light, heat, air and moist-
ure are exceedingly subtle ones, and not yet
thoroughly understood, but now the subject is
Ix'ing tivated to scientific ivsearch, we may soon
hope tor even this great mystery to be solved,
and then the gardener in the wiser years to come
will be enablcil to alter the colors of his favorite
flowers more rapidly than now, by carrying on
Nature's work on (juicker and more direct lines.
—Amateur Oarilening.
The Kipening of Pears, Most summer Pears
cannot be trusted to ripen full.v on the tree; the
open wind and sunshine carry away their deli
cate aroma and flavor. As fast as they begin to
->
PURPLE,''
/
W
^°
I I
red',^^ ^(yellow
V ~-.^ WHITE __-<55v^'
/
/
^^ ^^
ORANGE
DEVELOPMENT OF COLORS IN PLANTS.
show the color of maturity they should be picked
and placed in still air, not too dry, there quietly
to complete the changes which develop sweet-
ness and fine flavor. But even there the flavor
soon dissipates, and to enjoy it each Pear must
be eaten just as soon as ripeness is complete, for
decay immediately follows. No fruit is finer
than a fine Pear so managed. A good test of
their being fit to pick is when the stem separates
from the spur on which it grew by its natural
dissepiment. If the stem is broken elsewhere it
will leak, and the fruit will begin to shrivel, and
will lose t)uality. Winter Pears are treated sim-
ilarly. They should be left on the tree as long
as safe from frost and then placed on a tray in a
cool cellar and covered with a cloth or otherwise
to keep the air still about them. Some sorts,
most unpromising when taken in, develop fine
color and delicious quality if patiently left thus
protected to the slow processes of change, which
bring on final maturity. The proper cellar tem-
perature is a few degrees above freezing, but as
the Pears show color they should be taken to a
warm room to develop full flavor, still wrapped
orcoVered to prevent shriveling.— N. Y. Tribune.
Barron's Tree Transplanter, At the great
show at Windsor, Barron's famous tree trans-
planter was seen in one part of the grounds.
Here suspended some l.s or 20 inches above the
ground, in the middle of a huge vehicle resem-
bling a big timber caiTiage, was seen a fine
Scotch Fir some 40 feet in height, which had
some ten days previously been lifted by the ma-
chine at Ascot, and brought to the show yard,
so that the practical value of the lifter might
be thus exemplified. We saw the tree after it
had been in this novel position for several days,
and exposed to the full glare of almost tropical
sunshine, yet there it still hung, suspended
upon the Ijearers by stout chains, the roots be-
neath and at the sides somewhat protected from
the sun rays by mats, but none the less, not a
twig hung, and not a branch flagged ; in fact it
seemed as though it had grown on the machine
for years and liked it. The entile tree and ball
of soil weighed several tons. Occasionally a few
buckets of water were thrown over the grassy
surface of the ball to keep it moist.— Gard. World.
Southern Opportunities. People should not
come here with the idea that they can make a
living without proper effort on then' part, or
without a fair expenditure of money or brain
power. The climate will help out a little, it is
true. Good .soil and a plentiful rainfall and com-
I>arative e.xemption from insect pests will help
one materially to make a living. There are hun-
dreds of things that will help out a little and
give a man great advantage over those living at
the North, but these advantages will not avail
unless a man does his part first. He must in-
telligently prepare the ground, select and plant
the seed and cultivate the soil with due regard
to agricultural laws. He must thoroughly
possess his farm. He must ride his business or
his business will ride him. He must make hay
while the sun shines. The same agricultural
laws arc in force here as elsewhere, with these
adv antages : Long growing seasons, short, mild
wiiitci's, a soil easy to cultivate, and very pro-
ductive when properly handled, line roads, low
taxes and cheap fieight rates.- Cornucopia.
Curing Tomato Seed. None hut the best To-
matoes should be selected for seed to be sold to
the trade. When thoroughly ripe, the Tomatoes
should be ground uj) by some sort of process,
either by bruising them with a pestle or by run-
ning them through a cider mill or something
similar. The next day the seed is ready to be
separated from the pulp, and the cleaning con-
tinued for two or three days after the grinding,
without any injury to the seed. Now run the
pulp with the seed, through a No, 4 sieve, by
adding plenty of water as it passes through the
sieve, into a tub or receptacle used for holding
the seed. It should then be taken out and spread
on a drying cloth and left till thoroughly dry.
The seed will now be more or less stuck together
but can be separated by rubbing, though a
more rapid plan is to run it through a threshing
cylinder. Now run the seed through a fanning
mill and the seed be ready for market.— Cal. Fl.
Coal Ashes for Mulch. There can be no doubt
that coal ashes spread under fruit trees are often
very helpful. One way they help is to make a
mulch. Coal ashes are light, and the fact that
they have not much manurial value makes them
all the better for keeping down grass, which de-
pletes the soil of the moisture that the trees
need. Three or four inches deep of coal ashes
spread under the trees keep the soil beneath
moist and cool. If they are spread on sod they
kill the grass, and this, with the decaying sod
roots, makes a fine feeding place for the roots of
the tree. It is probable, also, that under this
mulch the soil itself undergoes important chemi-
cal changes, fitting its manurial elements for ab-
sorption by roots.— Rural Canadian.
Staking Herbaceous Plants. If satisfactory
results are to be obtained, quite as much time
must be spent on a garden of herbaceous plants
as on the elaboi-ate foi-ms of bedding out, but
then it is more enduring, and of more interest
from the constant change of flowers. Much will
require to be done in the way of staking and ty-
ing. Pa^onies are getting top heavy with flower
buds, and generally a single stake will be found
enough for a large plant, looping up the stems
lightly. The same applies to Delphiniums, but
these grow so strong and tall that extra stout
stakes are required, and instead of matting,
strong string is better. Other tall herbaceous
plants need the same attention.- Gardrs' Chron.
Forcing Lily of the Valley, We arranged a
bench with moss, good bottom heat, cotton cloth
covering, etc., and our crop of flowers wasmerel.v
fair. As we had more irips to start we put the
balance into a couple of shallow boxes, covered
with a light mulching of Moss and set under
a bench in a warm house, setting the boxes on
the pipes and gave no further care other than
watering. To our surprise these came far better
than the others. We now grow all our Valley in
this simple way. The boxes can be had from any
grocer at five cents each, and thej' will hold KO
pips. The saving in bench room is considerable.
There has been no Valley grown in this city finer
than oui-s forced in this simple way.— Am. Florist.
The Angouleme Pe ar. This Pear, among cul-
tivators of dwarf orchards, is as widely known
and as popular as the Bartlett among standards
or as the Baldwin among Apples. Its large size
adds to its popularity, and its excellence in
quality is increased by adding to its size by good
cultivation. When neglected so much that the
specimens did not weigh four ounces, they were
no better than a Turnip. When weighing a pound
they are delicious. The hardiness of the tree is
one of the most valuable qualities. It is rarely
destroyed by fire-blight.— Country Gentleman.
The Color of Drain Tile, A well-burned tile
will not dissolve when once safely underground,
whatever its color Nor is it any better for being
burned until it is black. Red color in tile or
brick is evidence of iron in the clay from which
they are made. The Cit.v of Milwaukee is built
of cream-colored brick. The clay near that city
does not contain iron, but the brick is just as
durable under extreme cold as any other. All
tile are more or less porous, and if filled with
water will crumble and break if frozen in that
condition.— Am. Cultivator.
To Preserve Flowers, Ladies who surround
the stems of their corsage bouquets with moist-
ened powdered Willow charcoal, which may in
i8
POPULAR GARDENING.
October,
turu be wrai>i)LMl in Moss or Cotton, will find
their flowers remaining fresh loni? after the de-
parture of all beauty from those of their less
thougBtful neighbors. The same substance
placed in the bottom of the vase in which flowers
are kept will be very useful, provided the stems
are cut off with a sharp knife once or twice a
day.— Pacific Rural Press.
New Fruit Knife. This simple contrivance,
which is the invention of J. L. Mosher, of San
Jose, a professional fruit dryer, and consist* of a
piece of highly tempered steel fastened to the
cutting table, as represented in illust ration,
directly in front of the operator. The fruit is
held with both hands between the thumb and in-
dex finger, and is forced against the blade or cut-
ting portion, represented by the curve near the
top. liy a quick pushing and turning motion it
is separated into two halves by a clean cut, and
the ;pit removed by the simple pressure of the
piece retaining the pit against the lower portion
of the blade. It apparently suiiplies a long-felt
want in fruit cutting. —California Fruit Grower.
Keeping Tomatoes for Winter. Late Tomatoes
may be kept long after the frosts have destroyed
the vines and the ripe fruit has disappeared from
the market, by picking the green Tomatoes as
late as possible, and packing them in dry sand,
putting them away where they will not freeze.
A few days before wanted take out a layer from
the sand, place them in a sunny window or in a
warm room, when they will ripen and be as nice
as though fresh from the vines —Prairie Farmer.
Potted Geraniums. In California we don't pot
Geraniums as often as they do in countries where
they have to be housed in winter. The profuse
bloom which is naturally expected of them and
which is sometimes not forthcoming, may, how-
ever, frequently be secured by potting and let-
ting the plants get almost pot^bouud.— Pacific
Rural Press.
Non-inflammable "Wood. To deprive wood to
a considerable extent of the property of com-
municating fire, it is suflScient to coat it with a
suitable composition. This is done with a brush,
and the substances most to be recommended for
use in this manner are cyanide of potassium and
asbestos paint.— Manufacturer and Builder.
Trapping Mice in Orchard. A correspondent of
Farm and Home digs holes all around his fruit yard 16
to H inches deep and covering them with short bits of
boards to keep snow out, raised a little above the sur-
face so as to give the mice free ingress. A few sweet
Apples or a little grass entk-e the little pests that are
too clumsy to get out again.
Fruit Eating on the Increase. Fruit is so cheap
and plentiful in New York that there is no excuse for
a stinted indulgence in it. The fruit habit is growing,
and the cooling, health preserving food is seen on more
breakfast tables than ever before.— Sun.
A Moist Place for Apples. Dampness will not in-
jure winter Apples in the least. In fact, they keep
better in a cellar where the bottom is moist earth or
stone, then In the cellars which are perfectly dry.—
Orange Co Farmer.
Mushroom Growing. This by artificial means is so
uncertain that no one having experience in the bus-
luesss could advise another wholly ignorant of it to
attempt it for profit.— Farm and Fireside.
Advantages of Draining. Tile draining contributes
to an aeration of the soil and consequent fertility, so
that is has uniformly been found use-
ful in Increasing its fertility.
Insect Powder and Flies. Another
use for Persian Insect powder is to drive
away fltes and mos((uitos by burning the
powder In rooms— Am. tiardeu.
Keeping Fruits. Most varieties ofj
fruit are best kept on shelves, where tbeyj
can be spread thinly and easily in-
spected.-Am. Cultivator.
Good Fruit or None. Only fine goods
are wanted In the market; none others
pay.— Cal. Fruit Grower. ^™ '' ^" 'f^'-
A cellar for the storage of Apples for late sales or
shipment ouglit not to be under a dwelling house.
Russet Apples make the best cider.
Vegetable Products on the Table.
Fried Pumpkin. Slice the Pumpkin and boil
luitil tender ; remove frf»m the fire and musli
with a fork ; add two eggs, and fry in butter
until brown.
Boiling Vegetables. Always put into fast
boiling water, to be quickly brought to the boil-
ing point again, not left to steei> in the water
before boiling, which toughens them and de-
stroys color and tla\or.
fried Parsnips. Scrape and leave in ci )ld
water for an hour, then boil with a little salt in
the water. Dry them and cut in lengthwise
slices. Dip in melted butter and then in tlour,
season with salt and pepper, and fry in drip-
liings. Drain free from fat and serve hot.
Cranberry Dumplings. Sift tfigether one
quart of flour and '2^4 teasj>oons of baking pow-
der ; mix to a soft dough with sweet milk ; roll
out and spread with one quart of Cranberry
sauce, fold over, place in a pudding-bag and
steam one hour. Serve with a sweet sauce.
Quince Marmalade. Boil the Quinces until
they are soft ; then peel and rub them through a
sieve or on a grater. To each pint of pulp allow
one pint of sugar, and boil for two hours, stir-
ring frequently. It is well to place the preserv-
ing kettle where there is no danger of burning,
but where the boiling is continuous. The long
lioiling causes the color to become a rich red.
Quince Jelly from Parinprs. Put the parings
and cores in a kettle and neatly cover with cold
water ; boil until very tender, pour into a strain-
ing cloth tied over the top of a stone jar, let
them drain untouched. To every pint of juice
allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar, put
juice in a kettle and let it boil, then stir in the
sugar a handful at a time, boil twenty minutes
and pour into glasses.
Cauliflower Pickles. Take solid heads, cut in
small pieces so they will go in a can without
breaking, wash well and cook in hot, salted water
from three to five minutes. Skim out carefully
into cold water which sends the salt all through
it, then put into glass cans or small jars; pre-
l>are vinegar with about one teacupf ul of white
sugar to two quarts of pure cider vinegar and
one-half cupful of whole, white Mustard seed.
Let the vinegar boil and pour on the Cauliflower.
Fill the can full and screw the cover on.
Chow Chow. One peck of green Tomatoes,
five Onions, three heads of solid Cabbage, one
dozen green Peppers. Chop each separately
and then mix together and put in a coarse,
linen bag and drain over night. Put in a porce-
lain kettle three pounds of brown sugar, one-
half teacupfu! of grated Horse Kadish, a tea-
spoonful of ground, black Pepper, a teaspoon-
ful of ground Mustard, a tablespoonful of Celery
seed. Cover with vinegar, boil and pour on
pickles in jar. If you wish it to be yellow, add
Curry powder to the \inegar.
Baked Egg Plant. Cut in half ; scoop out all
the inside, taking care to preserve the outside
shell; chop the inside verv fine, mis with bread
crumbs, add a half teacup of milk, season with
salt and pepper, but no butter ; return it to the
shells, and after cutting a little from the ends to
make them level, jjlacein your meat pan, adding
a little water, and bake as you would a roast
forty minutes, then take out of the shells into a
warmed dish. Make a drawn butter sauce and
pour over it ; that is, a teaspoonf ul of hot water,
butter the size of a small egg and flower to make
it like thin gravy.
Stewed Beans with Tomato. Soak any dried
Deans, Lima or Butter Beans preferred, and in
the morning boil for fifteen minutes; pour off
this water and add a quart of fresh boiling
water, with a teaspoonful of salt and sugar, and
half a small Ked Pepper cut fine. In the mean
time brown a minced Onion in two tablespoon-
fuls of Olive oil ; add some sprigs of Pai-sley and
six Tomatoes and stew slowly for half an hour;
then, rub through a sieve, thicken with a spoon-
ful of tlour rubbed smooth in cold water. Let
the liquid on the Beans quite boil away, taking
care that they do not scorch ; add the Tomato,
let all boil up once and serve hot.— G(^ Htnisdi''g.
Apple Butter. To forty gallons of good sweet
cider, made from sound, ripe Apples, use three
bushels of select Apples. The cider should be
boiled down to one-third or a little less before
putting in the Apples, which should be pared
clean, all specks, bruises, seeds and seed cavities
removed. They may be quartered, or cut into
eighths, if very large. Stirring should com-
mence as soon as fruit get* soft, and be kept up
carefully until done. At all times prevent the
flames of fire striking the kettle above the line
of contents. When boiled down to ten gallons
it will be done, and will be an article fit for a
king. Put in earthen vessels, and when cold,
dip clean white paper into good whisky or
brandy, and lay it over the tops. In four months
from making, if kept in a garret (the best place),
the jars can be inverted on a floor or shelf witli-
out running out. Will keep for years, and if
made with the right kuid of Apples, such as
Kumbo, Smokehouse or Bellflower, will become
as smooth as cheese.— *\ Miller in Vich'a Magaz.
HOUSE PLANTS.
Begonias. The tuberous rooted class t« be dried off
and stored in a frost-proof place. Other flowering
kinds need plenty of water and light, and room enough
so they will not touch one another. Give liquid manure
occasionally. Rex Begoulas to be watered but spar
ingly, and set in a somewhat shady position.
Chrysanthemums to be stimulated with liquid ma-
nure.
Echeverias to be watered quite sparingly from this
time on.
Epiphyllum truncatum to be placed lu a light, sunny
situation, and stimulated occasionally with liquid
manure.
Ferneries to be started for winter adornment.
Plants can be placed In any cool, light window. Water
the roots thorouglily but not the foliage. Among the
finest for window we have Pteris argyrea, Pserrulata
erlstala, Nepolepis exaltata, Lomarla Gibba. etc.
Fuchsia. Plants having done their flowering may
gradually be supplied with less water until all foliage
is ofl", then stored away in some cool place where frost
never reaches, until required to start again. The win-
ter bloomers need a well -drained, light, rich soil and
plenty of sun. The old Speclosa is good— none better.
Carl Halt is a variegated blossom, and good for winter.
G-eraniums closely cut back and potted will winter
well in a dry cellar. Those kept from blooming up to
this time are now In shape for flowering.
Hoya carnosa tlirlves best in a warm place, but
needs now but little moisture at the root.
Hyacinths and other bulbs— Tulip, Crocus, Narcis-
sus, Jonquil, etc.,— to be started In pots for forcing.
Single ones bloom flrst and are generally the most sat-
isfactory, especially for growing In glasses. Dark
glasses are better than those of clear glass.
Jasminum grandiflorum In bloom to be given occas-
sional doses of liquid manure.
Jerusalem Cherries. Water freely to prevent the
leaves from dropping.
Justica carnea to be repotted and started up for
winter blooming. Give rich, loamy soil and thorough
drainage.
Oleanders to be removed to a cool, light cellar If
room is needed. Keep rather dry at the roots. Wash
the foliage with soap water from time to time.
Rivini humilis to be placed in a sunny window, and
occasionally watered with liquid manure.
Primroses now need light, and during blooming are
benefited by a weekly application of weak manm*e
water.
Temperature. Plants coming directly from the
florists often fall when set in a window at this time
because the pampered greenhouse plant is not used to
the exposure in the much colder window. Be sure to
get plants that are thoroughly hardened, and to warm
the rooms where such plants are in the window, suffic-
iently to carry them over this change in a gradual way.
LAWN AND FLOWER GARDEN.
Bulbs, The sooner Hyacinth, Tulip, Narcissus,
Liliuni longiflorum. Iris, Crown Imperial, Snowdrop
and similar hardy bulbs are put In the ground now the
better, although the planting may be continued as long
as the ground remains open.
Caladiums, Cannas. The leaves should be removed
as soon as injured by frosty or other bad weather, and
afterwards carefully lifted, dried and stored in sand
iu a dry, cool cellar, or underneath a greenhouse bench.
Dahlias. Take up after frost, label carefully and
store In barrels In a dry, frost-proof cellar.
Erythrinas. After frost cut the plants back properly,
lift carefully and place in boxes In a dry, frost-proof
cellar.
Enonymus, Ancuhas, and similar half-hardy plants
t« be taken up and placed lu cold pits where some pro-
tection can be given in severe weather.
Flower beds, etc., should not be neglected now to
the extent of becoming an eye-sore to the beholder.
Remove the plants injured by frost and neatly level
the soil. Remove the decaying leaves and portions of
herbaceous plants.
Gladiolus. Take up the bulbs after severe freezing;
dry and clean them, put iu paper bags and store In a
cool, dry place out of the reach of frost.
Hydrangeas, Lemon Verbenas, etc., t« be taken
up. ipotted or placed in boxes, then placed In a dry,
cool celler. Should be kept almost dry at the root.
Mirabilis. Treat like Dahlias.
PcBonies and other hardy herbaceous plants may he
taken up, divided and reset early this month. Manure
and work over the border or bed thoroughly before
replanting.
1889
POPULAR GARDENING.
19
Planting. This nttiuth lianller trees and shrubs may
be planted on well ilralned still. Strip off the leaves-
Pomegranates. Direetious for Hydrangeas will
apply.
Tigridias, Tuberoses. Treat likelibullulus. Tube-
rose bulbs shouhl be stured lu a warmer room.
Vallota. Conimeuee drying off.
ViTalks. Coutiuue to keep eleau and rolled down,
with etlges ueatly trimmed.
Weeds. Keep up the warefarc against them to the
Inst.
PLANT CULTURE UNDER GLASS.
Airins- <.!ive plants under glass au abundance of air
daily as long as the weather will permit. Avoid excess
of heat, espeelally at night and during cloudy weather.
Ardesia crenalata. If Increase of stock is desired,
sow seed as soon as ripened.
Azaleas. Give them a eool. airy place, water care-
fully and give perfect drainage.
Bouvardias, for free, early bloom should be kept In
a temperature of 55 to ft) degrees. When kept cooler.
Bowers will be later, although just as fine. Syringe
freely. WTien making rapid growth give weekly doses
of manure water.
Cacti Water sparingly except the Eplphyllum
truncaium varieties. Give a light sunny situation, a
temperature of alx>ut 55 degrees, and occasional doses
of manure water.
Camellias. Give plentj- of water at the roots.
Syringe foliage.
Cestrams. After blooming store under the green-
bouse benches, or place in a ct>ol, dry cellar.
Calceolarias from seed to be shifted as needed-
Water caref ullj'. Keep near glass.and free from Insects.
Air freely.
Chrysanthemnms to be given manure water until
nrst flowers open, but none afterwards. Keep the
plants cool; give air freely, fumigate occasionally.
Cinerarias. Treat like Calceolarias.
Climbers like Thunbergia Harrlsil. etc.. to be kept
tied up. Occasional doses of manure water promote
free growth.
Cyclamen Fersicnm to be placed In a light, sunny
position close to the glass.
Diosma fragrans, Chorogemas and similar hard.
wooded plants to be placed in a cool part of the hou«e,
and given water more sparingly. If watered stall
apply freely and thoroughly
Ericas. Treat as advised for Diosma.
Enphorbia. Temperature at night should be kept
at 60 or more degress. Apply manure water bl-weekly.
Fuchsias. See directions xmder House Plants.
G-ardenias- Water sparingly and place In a temper-
ature of about 55 degrees.
Geraniums for winter ;bloom to be placed In a light.
sunny situation, with an average night temperature of
from 45 to 55 degrees.
Callas for winter bloom to be watered abundantly.
Heliotropes. Directions for Bouvardias will apply.
Insects to be kept down by careful and timely atten-
tion. Fiunigate the house twice a week; or keep the
Tobacco tea troughs on the pipes. Use the syringe
freely to keep red spider in subjection. Remove scale
and mealy bugs by washing.
Jerusalem Cherries. Treat as directed under House
Plants.
Lachenalias to be potted now for bloom from Janu-
ary to March.
Mignonette, Ten Week Stock, Maurandia, Sweet
Alyssiuii, etc., for winter and spring decoration may be
sown until last of the month.
Oxalis. The potted bulbs soon start into growth.
Water freely: place in a light, sunny position where
an average temperature of 50 degrees is maintained.
Poinsettias. Treat as advised for Euphorbia.
Requisites. Haul manure, sand, etc., to be on hand
when wanted.
Petunias, Pinks, Carnations, Centaureas, etc., can
now be readily propagated.
Roses. Avoid cold draughts of air. For cut flowers
syringe dailj* in bright weather. For spring blooming
lift and pot about the middle of the month, place in
cold frame to protect by sashes from extremes of cold
and wet.
Salvias splendens will yet bloom for some time if
given a favorable sitnation, free watering and occa-
sional do.ses of liquid manure.
Seedlings. Transplant or pot as may be needed.
Verbenas can yet be propagated from cuttings.
FRUIT, GARDEN AND ORCHARD.
Apples. Fall Apples to be harvested just as soon as
matured- Winter fruit to be left on the trees until the
approach of colder weather. More than usual care
should be bestowed on the gathering, packing and
marketing of the fruit this season, as the crop here
and in Europe Is light and the prospect is for good
prices generally. Pack good fruit in clean barrels, and
put your name and address legibly on the head, with
variety of Apples, grade, etc. Save the culls, and
evaporate or sell to evaporating or cider establishments.
Blackberries need little attention this month, unless
winter protection is given. If s'>, trim out the old cane S'
heail back the young ones, and lay them upon the
ground, covering the tips with ^11 or litter.
Cuttings may now be made of Currants, Goose-
berries. Quinces, etc. Tie them in bundles of fifty and
bury in the groimd in a welt dralneil spot or in sand Id
the cellar. If preferred they can also be planted out in
rows two or three feet apart and two inches apHrt In
the rt>ws. Grape cuttings had better be tied In bundles
and burled nutll spring.
Grapes. Let them get fully ripe before gathering.
Pick when dry, and remove all decayed and imperfect
berries. Dispose of the thin-skinned varieties as soon
as possible, as they do not keep long. Well-rlpened
thick-skinned sorts will keep for a long time If left in
a cool room for some days, and then stored in open
trays In a dry. cool, airy cellar. The Grape crop Is not
so very large this season, that there Is any need of
crowding the market at any time.
Orchard. After the leaves fall Is a good time for
pruning or heading back young trees. Plum and Peach
trees are generally benefited by trimming off one-third
of all young growth.
Pears to be handled somewhat like Apples. Half
barrels or crates make good packages.
Packages. Get a supply of barrels, half barrels,
crates, etc., at once, if not on hand already.
Picking Apples, Pears, Peaches, etc., can be done
conveniently and safely when the needed ladders,
baskets, ropes, etc., are at hand, and reasonable care
in their use Is exercised. Run no risks. Use none but
ladders strong euoughto bear the strain, and fasten in
the trees In such a way that they can neither slip nor
slide. A little care would save many a fall, broken
limbs, etc.
Planting. Apple and Pear trees, Raspberry and
Blackberry plants, etc., may be set now with advan-
tage. For Peach trees we prefer spring planting.
Setting Strawberries, especially at the north, and on a
large scale, should also be deferred until spring.
Raspperries. Treat like Blackberries.
Storing. A cool cellar, dry enough to prevent mold-
ing, yet moist enough to prevent shriveling. Is service-
able for storing Apples, Pears, Grapes, etc. Put up
shallow bins or tiers of shelves. Tree fruits to be
kept for any length of time should be gathered just as
soon as mature, and rather earlier than fruit that is to
be consumed soon.
Yonug trees need careful Inspection. Sometimes a
label wire is choking the life out of one, or newly bud-
ded trees are nearly strangled by the ligature used in
budding. Remove the wires, cut the ligature. Also
head the young growth back where needed to improve
the shape of tree.
VEGETABLE GARDEN.
Aspaiagus. Cut and remove the tops before the
seeds are shed, then apply a coat of manure.
Beets to be gathered before freezing weather. Cut
off the tops an inch from the crown and store in pits
or in sand In a cool cellar.
Cauliflower. The late crop should be protected
from suu and dew, by folding some of the large leaves
over the heads and tying there.
Celery needs considerable attention from now on.
Earth up what Is wanted for fall or early winter.
Handle what is to be wintered in trenches or In the
cellar.
Egg Plants. Gather all large specimens before frost.
If desired, a few plants may be carefully lifted and
placed under glass to prolong the supply.
Endive can be nicely blanched in cold frame. Take
up from open ground with a ball of earth attached to
each plant and set out closely together in frame. Keep
reasonably dry and air freely.
Peppers. Pull up the plants before frost, and hang
up under a shed or otherwise out of the reach of frost.
Thus the supply may be kept up for some time.
Rhubarb should have a good coat of manure.
Spinach. Cultivate and thin the crops for spring.
Squash. Gather before frost and store in a diy situ-
ation out of the reach of frost.
Stakes. Poles, etc. Gather and put under cover.
Sweet Potatoes. After the first light frost cut off
the tops, dig carefully to avoid bruising; then store in
a dry place iu a temperature of 5U to 60 degrees.
Tomatoes. Treat as described for Peppers. A few
plants might also be protected in open ground by
frames, sashes or otherwise. A first fall frost is usually
followed by weeks of fair, warm weather, and the
plants thus saved from destruction will often yield a
supply of Tomatoes for quite a while.
Turnips. Continue cultivating until foliage covers
the ground.
FRUIT AND VEGETABLES UNDER
GLASS.
Figs. Reduce supply of moisture both overhead and
at the roots as soon as fruit is gathered.
Grapes. Keep earliest houses cool and dry. Prune
the successional houses as soon as the leaves begin to
fall. In the late houses the fruit will be about ripe.
Keep them cool and dry. Remove all decaying berries
as soon as noticed.
Guavas should be well supplied with water, other-
wise loss of the entire crop may l>e the result.
Lettuce. Plants from the August sowings can be set
out for the earliest crop, and those raised from Sep-
tember sowings packed Into cold frames In rows an
Inch or so each way.
Limes, Lemons, Oranees. Wash the trees occas-
sloually with soapy water. Thin (^>ut the fruit where
too thick. Water occasionally with li<!uid manure.
Parsley for winter use is easily secured by carefully
lifting the plants and placing them lu a cold frame.
Some boxes can be filled and placed In the greenhouse
or kitchen window. Set the plants four Inches apart
each way.
Peaches and Nectarines In cool or slightly heated
houses should have an abundance of air in order to
properly ripen off the wood. Trees in tubs should be
treated like Figs.
Rhubarb. For winter forcing lift the roots toward
the end of the month, and store In frames in cellars
until wanted.
Strawberries. If not yet done, repot into sLxinch
pots, and plunge In coal ashes In an airy place.
THE POULTRY YARD.
Stunted chicks will never make good-sized_
fowls.
Feed regularly. Never let the chicks go to
bed hungry. Also feed as early as possible in the
morning:.
Profit in Geese. Pick geese every ten days ex-
cept during the coldest weather of winter. The
feathers can be made to be a. source of consider-
able income with good management.
Making a Poultry Fence. A good plan is to
board up tight the first two feet and then use
woven wire netting to receive the desired height.
The boards will make a good protection at a com-
paratively small cost.— Farmer and Breeder.
Soft-shelled Eggs. Mr. Jacobs states that all
the bone and oyster shells in the world will not
prevent fowls from laying. *oft-shelled eggs. The
remedy is to give less grain and more bulky food,
and compel them to work and take exercise.
Bones for Poultry. Gather up the bones and
either break or grind them for the poultry.
There are few if any materials that will excel
this for a poultry food and very often they are
simply allowed to go to waste.— F. and B.
Feeding Buckwheat. It is very fattening and
stimulating. It is not largelj' used in this coun-
try for poultry food. In England, France, Rus-
sia, and especially in Germany, it forms an im-
portant part of poultry food.— Poultry Monthly.
Clip Rooster's Spurs. If you have any old
cocks running around amongst your flocks, ex-
amine them on the roost at night. If their spurs
are Jong and sharp, take a die and file them down.
A sharp spur often causes serious damage to the
hens.
liilk for Fowls. My three hundred fowls, little
and big. manage to drink twelve gallons of milk
a day, besides much of their soft food being
mixed up with milk, or cooked with it. Still the
flock has never known cholera, or in fact any
other disease for years.— Country Gentleman.
Feather Eating. This occurs principally among
little fowls. It is a very bad habit and should be
stopped. It occurs mostly where they are con-
fined in yards and shows a lack of animal food.
Supply them liberally with raw meat, also ground
bone, shells, etc. If this does not stop the racket
chop the offending fowl's head off.— Ex.
Ducks are Healthy. There is less risk of dis-
ease with ducks than with any other fowls. If
they can have a free range during the day and a
comfortable house at night, and are fed lightly,
they will need vei'y little other attention, while
they are good layers, a good table fowl and fur-
nish a good supply of feathers.— F. and B.
Grass for the Confined Birds. l>o not throw
grass over into the yards to be trampled, but cut
it up fine and place it in the troughs. No other
food need be given until night. It re<iuires but
a few minutes to cut up a large amount; even
with shears. Such food will not render them too
fat, and is just what the hens want for producing
e^g^-— Farm and Fireside.
Egg Preservative. Take a teacupful of salt,
and lime the size of an egg, and pour boiling
water on them. When cold, drain off the liquor
and put it on the eggs. If too strong there will
be a crust on top; if so, add more water. This is
for two gallons of liquor. There is no receipt
that beats this, and it can relied upon. Eggs put
down in August and used in April are just as
fresh and make just as nice frostings as newly
laid ones.— The Magnet.
Lime on the Yards. By scattering fine lime
over the yards, occasionally (and also on the
floors and walls of the poultry-house), it will
greatly aid in warding off disease, and will be an
obstacle to the progress of lice. The house should
be cleaned out and the lime dusted over every
part, ft will also aid in making the soil more
fertile, and if at any time a crop is grown in the
yard, the manurial and chemical effects of the
time will be noticable. Carbolateof lime may be
prepared by adding a gill of carbolic acid to a
quart of boiling water and using such water to
slack stone lime. Use it only when in a fine con-
dition.—Farm and Fireside.
20
POPULAR GARDENING.
October,
CorresponcUnta are urged to anticipate the seanoti in pre-
senting questUms. To aalc, for Instance, on At^ril 16 or -il)
what Peaa had best be sown, could bring no answer in
the May issue, and none before June, tflhen the answer
would be unseasonable Questions reeeivedbefore the VJth
of any month stand a good chance of being answered m the
next paper Not more than three questions should be sent
at one 'time. Answers to questions bearing on the cot
tHlrMive value of imp.ements. etc., offered by different
dealers must not be expected. Neither can we promise to
comply wiih the request sometiii.es made to "please ansicer
by mail." Inquiries appearing without name belong to the
name next following
Replies to Inquiries are earnestly requested from our
readers In ansuvring such give the number, your
locality and name, the latter not for publication, unless
yau desire. Write only on one side of the paper.
1,441. Apple Mildew. Grafts of different varieties
covered with some kind of mold. What is It, and what
Is the remedy/— E. H. A. & Son.
1,44a. Wintering Fuchsias. Can I keep them in a
•dark cellar? Sitting room is too warm.— S.M.J. .ionrfon.
1.443. Peroxide of Silicates. Will it kill ciirculio?
How applied and at what cost?— P. K., Aledo, Ills.
1.444. Time ol Planting Trees. Is It best done in
fall or spring? Please describe most successful
methods?— C. E. M. , Atkinson, Neb.
1.445. Treating Neglected Grape Vines. A fine
Scuppernoug and a number of Concords, covering large
trellis, have never borne fruit. What is to be done?
1.446. Pruning Grape Vines. The best season?
1.447. Grapes on House Wall. What Is the best
mode of culture?
1.448. Selling Strawberries. Please tell best time
and best varieties for here.— A. J . R. Somerville. Tenn.
1;449. Cacti Culture. What are the requirements?
— H. & Son, Galena, Ills.
1.450. IvanhoeApple. What of its quality and value?
1.451. Curcnlio on Peaches. Small maggot destroy-
ing Peaches. What are they, and what Is the remedy?
H. M., Rowanta, ^'a.
1.452. "Holy Ghost" Plant. Is this the correct
name and how is It cultivated?- Mrs. J. Z. M., New
Orleans, La.
1,45S. Packing Small Fruit Plants. Hew can I
learn the best method?— S. R.
1.454. Frost-Proof Strawberry, wnat variety should
i plant for market that will endure early frost like
Crescent?— S. R., Bloomfield, Ind.
1.455. Setting Strawberry Plants. .Should the per-
fect and plstllate sorts be set in alternate rows or
mixed In the same row, to insure perfect fertilization?
What Is the best distance to plant?— J. A. S., Ind.
1.4.56. Bark Disease ol Cherries and Plums. What
Is the reason the bark cracks and the young trees all
die? It is a very dry coimtry here.— T. T., Utah.
1.4.57. Fertilizers for Palms, etc. Are Palms, Rub.
ber trees and Ferns benefited by the application of
fertilizers?- Mrs. J. T. C, Jamaica Plains, N. Y.
1,45.H. Planting Trees, etc. When Is the best time
to plant fruit trees, deciduous shrubs and vines?- Mrs.
J. T. C, Jamaica Plains, N. F.
1,459. Manure for Strawberries. Will the manure
used as mulch during winter hurn or hurt the plants if
workcil Into the soil In spring? -.1. B., Cambridge, O.
1,4611. Tuberous Begonia. One specimen always
drops Its lunls. while others under same treatment are
flowering well. What Is the reason?— .S^ Jo'ih, N. B.
1,461. Cacti Treatment. How can I make them
bloom?— E. L. S., Ogalatla, Neb.
1.463. Greenhouse Construction, Etc. What work
on the subject could you reconiniaud, especially fcr
forcing vegetables?— J. L. L. Biddleford, Me.
1,46-5. Potato Digger. Is there any practical ma-
chine of the kind?- P. L. N., Georyin, Vt.
1.464. Land Plaster. Should it be applied to gra.ss
and In the fall?-B., Marlboro, N. Y.
1.465. Potato Starch. Is this article still made In
quantity in New England? If so, where?— T. T. B..
Richmond, Va.
1.466. Laying Down Grape Vines. At what time
should this be done? If Delaware hardy as far north
a.sthls?— M., Plattsburgh, N. Y.
1.467. Tuberoses. Will bulbs. If taken up and win-
tered over, bloom again?— Ml.ss M. R D., Lee, Mass.
1.468. Milla biflora. Can this bulb be forced? If
so, how treated?— R., Hudson, Ohio.
1.469. Potato Rot. Is there any way of checking
this decay after Pototoesare dug and placed In bins?—
X., Putnam, Conn.
1,4711. Setting Fruit Trees. Should trees received
from the nursery this fall be planted now or heeled in
until spring?— M. H. A., Kecne, N. B.
1,471. Nasturtiums. Can they be grown in the
house during winter?- Mrs. McL., Aubnm, N. Y.
1.473. Keeping Grapes. What is the best way of
keeping tlrapes for the holiday and winter season?-
Rev. L. a. C, Taunton, Mass,
l,:17:i. Cabbages Not Heading. Is there any way of
putting "soft heads" In pits so they will grow more
solid during wlutei-? — 1. U. S., Fredonia, N. Y.
1.474. Raspberry Pruning. Is it advisable to cut
out old wood In the faH?-0. B. F.. Oak Bluff, Mo.
1.475. Hubbard Squash. What is the best way to
keep? I have a dry cellar.— H. A. H., AUentown, Pa.
1,476. Apples for Home Use. Will they keep Itcttcr
ilurlng winter If packed in bran or sawdust?— J. E. W„
Albemarle, Dak.
1.4(7. Mulching Strawberries. How early shall i
cover niy new ijlantation?— Mrs. C. H. H., Aurora, III.
1,47K. Althea Propagation. How is the Rose of
Sharon propagated most?— F. E. N., St. Louis.
1,479. Blight on Rhubarb. Some of my plants arc
affected with a kind of i>light or rust. What is the
remedy?— J. B., Yale, Mich.
1,4M), Greenhouse for Amateur. What is the best
and cheapest way of heating a small greenliouse for
trade in small town or for amateurs?— J. B., Yale, Mich,
l,4yi. Small Peaches. The fruit on one of my trees
for two seasons ha.s grown only to the size of marbles,
and never ripened. What is the trouble?— W. W. R.,
Toronto, Out.
1,48a. Kainit on Strawberries. What effect will It
have, when should it be applied, and how much per
acre?— W. M., Somerrllk; N. J.
1,4*!. Propagating Carnations. How Is it done?—
Mrs. A. N., .South Rockirood, Mich.
I,4y4. Cranberry Culture. Where can I get seed or
plants, and how are they managed?— F. C, D., Tim-
monsville, S. C.
1.485. Tartarian Honeysuckle. Can I propagate it
from cuttings, and if so, how and when?— A. A., Old.
1.486. Rose Seedlings. What care should my hardy
perpetual seedlings have this winter; what per cent
are likely to make gooil flowers?— T. D. V/.,Oalion, O.
REPLIES TO INQUIRIES.
1,.3SJ. Latest Strawberry. Among the very
lati'st, we hiivo Kentucky ami Gandy.- P.
1,382. Aphis on Currants. Can be banished
by an application of Tobacco dust or Insect
Death Powder. Ai>iily with gun or bellows.— P.
1,373. Tennisball Lettuce. The Hlack Seeded
is the most popular variety. The Boston Market
is a variety of the Tennisball, attaining a larger
size : and the Black Seeded Butter is also very
similar to, or identical with the Boston Market.
-C. E. P.
l,38t). Bhubarb. No stalks should be pulled
the first season after planting The ne.xt season
they can be pulled until they show a weakness
in growth. — C. E. P.
1,379. Bloomless Hoya. Your plant is grow-
ing too rapidly. It you permit the pot to be-
come well filled with roots, and give the plants a
sunny sltuatiim where an average temperature
of .^^° is maintained during the winter season,
no difficulty will be experienced in blooming the
Hoya.-C. E. P.
l,:!5t). Grass from Lawn. Can be utilized for
manure by placing it on the compost heap.— P.
1,:35«. Jacqueminot Bose for Summer. As this
Rose is perfectly hanly, it should be planted out
in a deep well enriched border in a sunny situ-
ation. Until the plant becomes well established
a slight covering of Evergreen branches should
be gi\en during the winter in exposed situa-
tions.—C. E. Parnell.
l.3.5i). Herbaceous Plants, if only a plant or
two of each variety is required it will be best to
purchase them, rather than to attempt to laise
them from seed. Strong, well established plants
can be procured at very moderate rates from
those wh(] make a siwcjalfy of their culture.
To raise Herbaceous plants fi-oni seed, requires
skill, ('.xpciierKc anil patii'iiic, besides a knowl-
edgecjf thcliabilsof the dilfi-rent species. — Chas.
E. Paknell.
l,34(j. Apple Tree Bark Louse, Besides the
treatment already recommended, they can be
destroyed by an application of tobacco soap.
Dissolve two ounces in a gallon of water and
apply with a paint brush.— C E. P.
Law. Cyclamen Fersicum. After resting dur-
ing the winter season, the plant should be re-
potted and placed in a well drained, soft-baked
pot. Give a compost, ccmipcised of two-thirds
turfy loam, and onc-thinl wi'll decayed iiiamne.
Water sparingly at lirsl, and increase the supply
as growth advances,—!'. E. P.
1,441. Apple Mildew. The Apple twigs are
affected with the powdery mildew, a disease due
to the attacks of a minute ijarasitic fungus.
The Department of Agricidture, section of
Vegetable Pathology, has given this subject
special attention, this season, and as this disease
appears to assume a rather serious aspect,
especially for tree growers, we make the fol-
lowing e.xtract from Dr. Galloway's report
soon to be issued : The experiments were made
on large blocks of young Apple trees in the
nurseries of Franklin, Davis & Co. The fungus
was confined almost wholly to the seedlings, and
on them solution of Sulphuret of Potassium
( liver of sulphur), one-half ounce to the gallon
of water, was first tried, but soon given up on
account of various dilliculties. The treatment
with Ammoniacal Carbonate of Copper solution
was then decided upon. The tiquiu was put on
with a Vermorel pump provided with a lance
and eddy chamber nozzle, which answered the
purpose admirably, the spray being just wide
enough to cover the small trees without any
wast« whatever. The spray, moreover, was ex-
cepdingly fine, and as the lauee attachment
enalded the operator to hold thi- nozzle ilown
am(]ngthe leaves there was no iiicmivenience
arizing from the wind deflecting the spray and
blinvinu- it i,;,,.|.; ,111 (,tj(. ,nan. The mixture was
I>ivpiircil by iilaeing six ounces of Carbonate of
I opper, which is a fine powder and readily
handled by means of a small tin scoop, into
an ordinary waterpail. A half-gallon of ammonia
was slowly added at the same time stirring with
a wooden ]i:tddlc. Two miiuites' stirring was
sufficient to conipleti-l} dissolve the copper, and
the solution which is of a beautiful blue color,
was then poured into a barrel containing 44
gallons of water, and mixed with the water by
means of a long stick. A moment's stirring and
the solution which was now of a light blue
color, was ready for use. The cost of this
mixture, and labor of applying it, was about
two cents per 1,(K)0 trees. The blocks were
sprayed six times. As a result of this there was
practically no mildew <m any of the trees thus
treated, in August, and even a lot of (10,000 trees
which were purchased in Ohio and were very
badly affcited with iniMew at the time of jilant-
inti, are now dniufi liiiiiv well, so that probably
not more than three per cent, of their buds will
be lost, at the same time the mildew is present
and is doing considerable damage on many of
the unsprayed trees in the nursery. Cherries,
especially, are liadly all'eeted, as well as several
varielies of I'lums. It niiyht be well to add here
that this fungus attacks llie Peach. Plum, .Shad-
bush, Hawthorne, and .several allied plants, but
whether the spores from these jilants have the
power of infecting the Apple, or rice versa, has
not, so far as we know, been proved.
1,367. Currant Cuttings. Cut as soon as the
fruit is gathered, cut in eight to ten inch lengths
and planted in a well prepared bed packing the
earth firm at the bottom and leaving a bud or two
above ground they will root nicely before winter
sets in, at which time the bed should be covered
with coarse manure, leaves or similar material to
keep them from being lifted by frost. In spring
uncover the tops and let them grow, you will se-
cure far better plants in this way with less loss and
labor than by spring planting.— W.
I,43ij. Pruning Peach Trees. We would not
advise fall pruning for the purpose named. Let
nature have her way. Prune in spring and don't
be afraid to cut off a few blossom buds. Pay no
attention to them. -W.
1,397, Wood Ashes. Use all you can get for
berries of any kind, and for other crops also.— E.
1,404. Small Fruit Farm. The size will depend
much on the man and the fruits grown. Even if
the place is called a farm, extra help will be needed
when the fruits are gathered, so that it at once ex-
ceeds the one man power called for. Soil should
be light, warm, free from stone. Two acres of
such soil could be easier and more cheaply worked
than one of the opposite character. The best loca-
tion is near a good local market not overstocked
with similar products from "all creation " if such
can be found.— E.
1 409. Protecting Qrape Tines and Rasp-
berries, Grow the hardiest kinds and mature the
wood thoroughly. Loosen vines from trellis and
lay down on the ground weighting with something
to keep them down — E.
1,410. Strawberries and Baspberries for Kansas.
How often are our horticultural editors and their
contributors addressed with such queries, to answer
which he must hunt up documents not always
readily accessil)le, and spend much time searching
for information which the questioner could far
more easily obtain in his own neighborhood. The
editor a thousand miles away has no experience
that would enable hint to give an intelligent and
trustworthy answer, so he must of necessity seek
the information from sources more easily accessi-
ble to the querist. It seems that far-fetched infor-
mation is often better appreciated than the home
product. Kansas has a large and live horticultural
society devoted to the interests of just such in-
quiries. If F. M. O. would send one dollar to the
secretary, Geo. C. Brackett Lawrence, Kansas, for
m**mhership in said society he would get the
annual report worth double the money, and be sur-
prised to see how much valuable information in
this direct line he could obtain right at home. He
will also flntl if I am not mistaken, that he can't
afford to deny himself in the future the advantaged
to be obtained from being identified with the so-
ciety, attending its meetings and becoming ac-
quainted with its members. — E. \V.
1,403, Pruning Bed Baspberries. Generally
speaking the young canes should be pinched off at
2^ or 3 feet high so as to secure stockly branched
plants, but some varieties seem to do better if
allowed their own sweet will the first season and
then having their heads cut off in the spring. They
then develop strong bearing branches from dor-
mant buds from near the base of the cane up, pro-
ducing better fruit than the branches grown the
year previous. This is especially true of varieties
that are to be laid down for winter protection.
Bearing canes should be removed immediately
after fruiting.— W.
1889.
POPULAR GARDENING.
21
1.430. Fruits for Arkansas, Tlie remarks undrr
1,410 also iijiply to,). K. M.
1,419. Deformed Asparagus, My observation
led me to attribute tliis in the majority of eases to
the Aspara^is beetles, thotigli cut or oilier worms
may be responsilile to some degree. Tlie most of
tliese deforineil shoots are the early ones, and these
beetles feed under ground till the weather becomes
warm Have found them so frequently in such
compromising positions as to leave no doubt in ray
mind they are the culprits. Thes;e pests are mul-
tiplying and spreading so rapidly as to be a serious
menace to Asparagus culture. They are the chief
cause of so much white Asparagus in the market.
It is the sheerest nonsense to claim that it is popu-
lar or in demand, for it is not and is the chief cause
of depreciation in prices — W. ( Jlr. Chas. W. Gar-
field in his paper on Asparagus culture, extract of
which appears in this issue, attributes the causes
of deformed shoots to the sand bl.tiwing against
them, just after breaking through the ground. The
question of '* white" or green Asparagus seems to
us chiefly one of education, individual taste t about
which latter sensible peojjle do no' dispute }, man-
ner of growing, and culinary skill. When properly
grown and prepared even the '" white " ( bleached )
Asparagus is not to be despised. Ed ]
1.424. Keeping Sweet Potatoes. The tubers
should be dujr after the first frost. They are
generally ripe about that time. Examine some
bruised specimens. If the wound turns to a
dark or bluish color they are not ripe, but it the
■milk" oozes out and dries over the wound,
they are all right. Dig in fair weather, bruising
them as little as possible, and not expose them to
rain or dew. Store them in crates or boxes in a
dry place where the temperature is kept at from
50 to 65 degrees, and never allowed to go much
below 4.5. A correspondent of Southern Culti-
vator recommends the following plan for south-
ern localities, as one never known to tail: Smooth
off the ground where you wish to locate the
bank. Put a layer of Corn-stalks on the smooth
surface as thickly as you can, and cross-lay with
another layer of stalks. Spread over the stalks
about four inches of Pine straw or any other
straw. Next, nail together four planks or
boards, forming a hollow. Bore holes in each
side of this tolerably thick ; stand it on end in
the center of the straw, and pile the Potatoes
around it. Put a layer of straw over the Pota-
toes, and a layer of (^orn-stalks. setting on ends
over it. Cover the stalks with dirt, spading it
from close around the bank, therel>y forming a
ditch to turn the water from the Potatoes. Be
sure to let the top end of the boards extend a
little above the top of the bank. Leave the top
open until rain or cold snap comes, then cover
with a piece of plank until the weather moder-
ates. This hollow furnishes a channel tlirough
which air can readily reach the Potatoes all a-
round the center, and should be kept oi>en as
much as possible while the weather is moder-
ately cool, but as winter approaches it should be
kept closed. Potatoes always go through a
sweat after being banked, and air distributed
through them is ^ery essential.
1,432. Currant Borer. This may be the im-
ported borer, the jiarent of which is a pretty
wasp-like moth measuring with wings expanded
about three quarters of an inch across, or it may
be the American Currant borer which is the
larva of a beetle. Although belonging to en-
tirely different orders, the two borers are similar
in appearance and habits, the latter ( American
borer) being, however, easUy distinguished by its
smaller size and abseence of feet. Botii feed on
the pit in the center of Currant and sometimes
Gooseberry canes, hollowing them out, and often
entirely killing them. The only remedy that
might be suggested is cutting out and burning
all stems found hollow or sickly in autumn or
spring. During the period when the moths are
on the wing they may often be captured and de-
stroyed in the cool of the morning, at which
time they are somewhat sluggish. The other
borer is sometimes attacked by parasites.
1,4.59. Manure for Strawberries. Sometimes
it happens that an excess *if barnyard manure
works to the injury of the crop to which it is
applied, especially by souring the soil. Usually,
however, the injury comes from the failure of
tee grower to apply enough, and we feel much
more disposed to warn against the risks of using
too little manure, than caution against too much
of it. This same view we take even in regard to
so strong a fertilizer as hen manure. It is mere
folly to exi*ct very large returns from the ma-
nure of W hens when spread over five or six acres,
as so often advised by poultry fanciers and poul-
try editors. But wheg we apply the droppings
of the same number of fowls, accumulated dur-
ing one year's time, to one-twentieth of an acre
of garden, we never fail to see remarkably fine
results. The inquirer need not be afraid to mulch
his StrawlxTries with stable manure which is free
from weefl seeds, pretty liberally, and to work it
into the soil between the rows, and close to the
plants in spring. It will do no hurt, but most
likely very much good.
1.44:i. Peroxide of Silicate. This lan not be
used with satisfactory results for the curculio.
The only way <-»f applying remedies for this pest
is in a fine spray that will cover fruit and foliage
with a very thin film of arsenical poison. Perox-
ide of silicate is int^'iided for dry application.
Paris green is probably the best and sjtfest t(t use,
but f(»r Plum, and especially Peacti trees, the
liqiiitl should be made ver.\ weak, piTiiaps at the
rate of one pound to 'AKi or ■-'.'><( gallons of water.
\,i'tS. Planting trees, etc. Kor this state we
prefer planting almi)st all trees, shrubs and vines
ill early spring rather than in autumn, the excep-
tion being with Kaspberries, Blackberries, Ap-
ples, Peal's and a few other things, which often
do very much better when planted in autumn.
With care, and a little winter protection, howev-
er, almost all trees, shrubs, vines, etc., can be set
in autumn successfullj'.
l,4.To. Setting Strawberries. Lack of pollen
at the time of blooming is one of the most pro-
lific cause of bari'enness, or poor specimens in
fruits. For this reason we always aim to set
plenty of pollen producing plants, and with
Strawberries would alternate one row of a per-
fect sort or sorts with not more than two or
three of the pistilate variety. Some growers go
so far as to set them in alternate rows, and while
this is hardly necessary, it is far better to go to
the extreme in this direction than in the oppo-
site. The best distance for the rows we consider
to be about ff)ur feet. This leaves a chance for a
reaaonalilj' wide matted row, and at the same time
ff>r cultivation between. The plants are usually
setI2 or !.'» inches apart in the row, but with free-
running sorts, we might often plant double that
width with advantage, and only where the stool
system is strictly adhered to, will it be necessary
with all sorts to have them as close as 12 inches
apart from the start.
l,4o'3. Packing Small Fruit Plants. In no bet-
ter way can this be learned easil.v and thorough-
ly than by a visit during the shipping season to
the packing houses of one or more good nurserj'-
men who do a mailing and shipping trade. We
have many such in almost every state, and you
should not begrudge a reasonable expense to
make a trip to those located nearest to you.
1,.552. Holy Ohost Plant. This is a terrestrial
Orchid belonging to the genus Peristeria or Dove
plant, and botanically known as P. clata.
Should be grown in well-drained pots of light,
rich, fibrous loam, with a liberal mixture of fine
sand and broken charcoal. They succeed well in
an ordinary greenhouse, but do not want much
water, particularly when at rest. They flower
during the summer months, and remain in bloom
several weeks. Propagated by division.
1,4.51. Curculio on Peaches. The insect de-
stroying your Peaches is probably the curculio.
Spraying with arsenious solutions in early
spring, and repeated if necessary, will kill the
curculio, but great caution is required, especially
in making the solution weak enough, lest the
foliage may be'greatlj' damaged also. Peaches
seem to lie very sensitive in this respect.
1,446. Pruning Grape Vines Our best grow-
ers now seem to have pretty generally agreed on
autumn as the liest time for pruning Grapes. It
can be done as soon as the leaves have matured.
If cuttings are to be made of the trimmings,
it is alwa.vs best to do that before the latter have
been exposed to a very low temperature in win-
ter. Cut them now, tie in bundles of 50 each,
and bury in sand in the cellar.
1,448. Setting Strawberries. For northern lat-
itudes we always favor spring planting of Straw-
licrries, since it is so much more diflicult to win-
ter them without loss when set in autumn, and
the crop that could be expected in following
spring even under favorable circumstances, is
really insignificant. At the south, however,
plants set in autumn, usually make considerable
growth before spring, and sometimes even form
perfect matted rows that will bear fruit abund-
antly the spring following. In such case we
would fa\'or autumn planting.
1,444. Planting Trees. The ground should be
as thoroughly prepared as for planting Corn.
Dig the boles for the trees large and deep, with
room enough to spare for the roots, partly fill in
with surface soil mixed with good compost; trim
all bruised parts of the roots, set the tree into
the hole and fill with the same material until the
roots are all covered. Press the soil firmly about
and among the roots, first by hand, then by the
feet, and finally finish filling in the hole with the
subsoil. .Always leave a mound drawn up around
the stem of the tree for protection. See also re-
ply to l,4.5.s.
1,403. Pruning Eed Easpberries. When red
Raspberries should be pruned depends largely
upon their vigor and rapidity of growth ; if they
start early in the spring, ( we refer to new canes,)
and grow, rapidly, they should be pruned as
soon as they attain a height of two and one-
half or three feet. This will tend to [strength-
en the cane, cause it to put forth strong laterals,
and be likely to improve the fruitage of the
next season. The cutting out of old canes after
fruiting of the varieties that only fruit upon the
second years growth also tends to strengthen
new canes.— Wm. Yeosians, Columbia Co., Ctrnji.
1,4H0. Evaporating Fruit. Free stone Peaches
should be placed Hat side down on trays. Clings
can be removed from stone by " Peach knives,"
1 prefer them whole. A]iples should be pared on
a paring, coring and slicing machine. Drop in
water tumtjiining a little salt after paring and
l>lace in furnace as soon as po.ssible. Should lap
one eight of an inch on the trays. Small fruits
should be firm and watehed closely. For Corn,
place a piece of muslin on tray and place the
Corn on it. It should be scraped loose occasion
ally. For bleaching, if the American evaporator
is used ( it is my favorite }, place two trays on
the upper track over the furnace, and a
piece of sulphur about the size of a i'hestnut in
the cuji on top of furnace should be used with
every fresh tray. Leave the trays over the fur-
nace about ten minutes then push up and insert
fresh ones. When done, fruit becomes brittle,
but softens after exposure to air. Pack in bags
or tight boxes in layers. W. P. Alexander,
Tenn.
1,434. Keeping Sweet Potatoes. Charcoal or
the dust of same is the very best thing known in
this country for keeping Sweet Potatoes packed
in it for winter. Dry, clayey dirt, or very dry
sand isalso successfully used. \Vlieat chaff some-
times does well. Sun and cure the Potatoes
well after digging and don't pack over two feet
thick, then keep as near 69° or 65° temperature
as you can. C. C. Lijtdlet, McDowell, Co., N. C.
1,469. Potato Eot. This has again shown itself
to be a most formidable foe to Potato culture in
the various sections of the United States where
rains have been superabundant during the season
just passed. It is liable to become still more de-
structive next season, and will undoubtedly do
so should it be one of more than average moist-
ure. In consideration of the importance of this
question we call our readers' attention to Prof.
F. Lawson Scribner's report on the Potato rot
appearing in Bulletin No. 2 Vol. II. of the Agri-
cultural Experiment Station, University of Ten-
nessee, to be had also of the Copnell University
Agricultural Experiment Station, Ithaca, N. Y.,
and of which report the following are extracts:
The disease results from the growth of a parasi-
tic fungus upon the Potato plant similar in habit
and botanically related to the downy mildew of
the Grape vine. It is most severe on lands that
are heavy and poorly drained, but this is due to
the abundance of moisture present favoring the
development of the fungus which is the direct
cause of the rot. Some have supposed that the
rot was due to an enfeebled condition of the Po-
tato plant, resulting from many years of cultiva-
tion, but there is nothing to prove that this is
the case. The disease has never been more de-
structive than during the years 1843 to 1845, and
the wild Potato is no more free from the malady
than the cultivated varieties. The life history
of the Potato-rot fungus, is as follows; The
spores, lighting upon the leaves of the Potato
germinate in drops of dew or rain, and the pro-
duct of germination— zoospores— penetrate to
the interior tissue-s of the plant, and after grow-
ing for a time through these tissues, the mycelium
sends out. chiefly from the under surface of the
leaves, slender, fruiting branches whereon are
produced a new crop of spores. These may
carry the disease to the other plants in the field,
or to other parts of the same plant; that is, they
may serve to spread the disease in the tops, which
we term blight, o^■er the entire field, or by being
washed into the ground they may reach the tub-
ers and caii.se the r<»t. The presence of the fun-
gus is soon made evident by a browning of the
flesh underlying the skin and by a more or less
extensive discoloration and depression of the
latter. The mycelium remains ali\'e and ready
to renew its activity upon the first favoring cir-
cumstances. Such Potat<ies may often be found
in the markets and are used for food every day,
and it is too frequently the case that they are
preserved for seed. Used for this latter purpose
they will hardly fail to effect the new crop and
bring about a new development or spores. The
fungus is most active between HO' and 70" F. At
40" F. its development is insignificant, but the
vitality of the spores is quickly destroyed by
keeping the infected tubers for a few hours at a
temperature of from 105° to 110°, a degree of
heat which does not injure their value for seed.
It is said that tubers may also be disinfected by
soaking them for twenty-four hours in a solution
of sulphate of copper, four to six ounces of the
sulphate in enougn water to cover a bushel of
Potatoes. If we can prevent the spores from
germinating on the tops there wiU be little dan-
ger of the disease reaching the tubers. It is
nearly certain that the rot may be prevented by
spraying the tops upon the first sign of the ma-
lady, with the Bordeaux mi.vtue or some of the
other well known preparations of copper sul-
phate. The greatest loss from rot often occurs
after the Potatoes are dug. They should be kept
at a comparatively low and even temjierature,
and especially where no dampness will collect
about them. Dusting the Potatoes with dry,
air-slacked lime, at the rate of one bushel of the
latter to 25 of the former, will help to keep them
surface-dry and materially aid in their preser\'a-
tion. To sum up, select for planting a light,
sandy loam or a soil which is well drained ; plant
only perfectly sound or disinfected seed; spray
the tops with" the Bordeaux mi.xture or some pre-
paration ccmtaining sulphate of copper; store
In a cool dry place,.aad keep dry.
22
POPULAR GARDENING.
October,
The Growth of Raspberries.
WM. H. YEOMANS, COLUMBIA CO., CONN.
The past season has been one of an unusual
degree of moisture in most parts of New
England, and while it has its discouraging
effects, it has at the same time possessed
some compensating influences. For the
production of cultivated crops the amount
of moisture has been detrimental, while for
the growth of plants for the production of
small fruits its influence is believed to be
favorable. With a season of great lack of
moisture — a season of drought— there Is
usually a scanty and imperfect growth of
plants, say of the Strawberry and the Rasp-
berry, which cannot result otherwise than
unfavorable for fruit production; that was
an eftect in some sections of a drought last
season; but now the case is very ditferent.
Seldom have we ever seen a more vigorous
growth of Raspberry bushes than has been
made through the past season.
We set new plants in the spring, and with
the existing abundance of moisture in the
soil immediate growth was commenced and
continued with no interruption; the growth
of canes was immense. We cut them back
heavily, but still they continued to grow,
and it the fruiting another season is pro-
portional to the development of canes the
yield will be almost unlimited. We shall
await with some interest the result, and if
it accords with our expectations it will be
an index as to the course to pursue in dry
seasons, becaiise although some labor is in-
volved it would be best to use means for
irrigation. Does not this fact of vigorous
growth with a surplus of moisture indicate
that a fairly moist soil would be appropriate
for the cultivation of small fruits.
Winter Storage of Vegetable and
Apples in Pits.
CARL HOLTMAN, ERIE CO., N. Y.
Dead-set against tilling the cellar under
the dwelling with vegetables and fruits,
that's what I am. And it were much better
for the health and comfort of the family in
many other cases, I know of, if pater
fuiniUaswere as shy of the practice as I am.
The conditions of the average cellar are far
from favorable to the best keeping of these
perishable things, and how often have I
seen people carry out bushels of half-decay-
ed Apples, shrivelled Beets and Carrots,
and rotten Onions and Potatoes, Imt not
until after the odors had tainted butter and
milk, and otherwise annoyed the people for
weeks or months.
Why should we thus keep in the house a
larger quantity of these things than re-
quired for immediate use, when the old-
fashioned pit-storage is so ett'ective and sa-
tisfactory? Tender and juicy are the Apples,
and plump and fresh the Potatoes and roots
dug out from the ''holes" during winter,
and in early spring, and altogether ditferent
from the wilted stuff usually coming from
the house cellar.
" Pitting is a perfectly safe and easy thing
if we make proper provision for ventilation
and sufficient protection against freezing,
although Apples and roots will usually
come out all right even after being touched
by frost, provided they are allowed to thaw
gradually before taken out. I have fre-
quently used the old-fashioned way with
very good success. An excavation is dug
in a well drained piece of ground eight
to twelve inches deep, four feet wide and as
long as required. The vegetables or Apples
are put in, and formed in a conical heap,
then covered with nearly a foot of straw,
laid smoothly up and down, and with a
foot or so of soil upon this. A whisp of
straw should reach from the heap clear
though the soil covering on top for ventila-
tion. At the approach of cold weather the
heap is thickly covered with a layer of straw.
The following is an improvement on this
plan, and I like it still better. Instead of
putting the soil directly upon the straw
covering, I make shutters, as shown in Fig.
1, made by nailing any sort of boards to
cross pieces or cleats four to six inches wide,
and standing at right angle against the
boards. The latter should be about six feet
long, the width of shutter aboutfour feet.
The vegetables are heaped up in a long
pile wide at the bottom and coming to a
point at the top, as may be seen in Fig. 2.
When covered with straw a foot deep, the
shutters are placed against it in the manner
shown, cleats down. The straw should pro-
ject over the top edges of the shutters. Here
we have a dead air space of several inches
between the straw and the shutters. A layer
of earth, thick enough to prevent all danger
from freezing, is finally shoveled upon the
boards, only the top between the shutters
where the straw appears above the edges,
being left uncovered for ventilation until the
approach of very severe weather. Then the
most of this should be covered also. Rain
and snow water must be kept out by a piece
of board laid lengthwise over the top.
When "out west" I have had excellent
success with a root cellar similar to the one
illustrated in Fig. 3. An excavation was
dug out seven or eight feet deep, about as
wide and twenty feet long, the top covered
with stout poles or logs, and these with
coarse prairie hay. Corn stalks or any avail-
able litter. This was sodded over with long
strips of tough sod, and soil enough shoveled
upon it to make the whole covering two
feet thick. Of course an opening was pro-
vided for, either in the center or in a corner,
and the entrance efl'ected by means of a lad-
der. A root cellar of the size named holds
about 4.50 bushels of roots.
THE COMPLETE GARDEN.*
XVIX.
BY A WELL-KNOWN HORTICULTURIST.
(Continued from page 293 VoC. IV.)
CLASSIFIED LIST OF HARDY FLOWERS,
CONTINUED.
1!lass a. Usually from one to three feet in height.
For Key to Seh'Ctitni sec September J^»e.
Name. Color. Season.
B Achillea (Milfoil) yellow July, Sept.
D Agrost«mma corona-
ria crimson June
e Anemone Pennsyl-
vanica white June
g Aira (Hair (rrass)
Citrulea yellow July, Sept.
0 Allium rose Sept. Oct.
D eernum rose
P stellatum rosy purple.
B Anthericum liliastrum
(S(. Brunos Lily).. white June, July
/ Artemesia trigida
(Southcrnieood) yellow yrven Summer
i Arisivma triphyllum
(Jack-in-the-PulpiDpurple May, June
D Aster ptarmicoides. ..i/'/)i(c Aug. Sept.
n sericeus purple Aug. Sept.
D Betomca(Befo»]y) offi-
cinalis purple . ..June Aug.
Campanula in variety blue, white, June
D Clematis integritolia.. blue July, Aug.
(7 tubulosa fine blue July, Aug.
C Conoolinium (Mist
flower) coelestinum. blue Sept.
h Corydalis lutes (Fum-
itory) yeUow May, Sept.
D Delphinium azureum
(Lark.tpur) tAuc, wh itc . June
D Daphne cneorum
(Garland flower) rosy lilac ..May, Sept.
B Diantbus barbatus
(Sweet William)-. vari<ms lune, July
D Dicentra e.ximea . rose June, July
e Dodecatheon media
(Am. Cowslip) red May, Juno
e Erigeron Philadelphi-
cum ro8|/p«rplc.June, Aug,
c BellidifoliumlBobin
Plantain) rotry purple.May, June
U Festuca glauca (Fes-
cue Orafts) grey
•Copyright, 1887, Popular Oardenlng Publishing Co.
D Fritillaria Meleagris
(t3uiiuM-Hen Flow-
er) purple April,June
.4 .i Funkia subcordata
(Plaintain Lily)... ti'hitc July, Aug.
D coerulea blue July, Aug.
Other varieties... various
/ Fortunei raaculata.itJac July, Aug.
D e Gentian alba (White
Ocntian white Sept Nov.
E e Andrewsii (Closed
Gentian blue Sept. Nov.
e Gillenia trifoliata
(Bowman's Root). .white July.
Gypsophila acuti-
folia white... . July, Sept.
/ Geum triflorum
(Ai/ache Plume). . .red
Hesperis Matronalis fl pi,
(Double Rocket) white May, July
t Helonias bullata
(Spiked Helonias) . .redduli .... May
A Hyacinthus (Hya-
cinth)
Orientali8( Common
Garden) various A prjl
D Inula glaudulosa — yellnw June, July
A g Iris (Flower-de-Lnce)
Germanica (Ger-
man Iris) vai-iuxis ... May, June
D g Leucojum sestivum
(Summer Snow-
flake) grecn,white. June
C Liatris (Blazing Star)
spicata purple .. ..July, Aug.
Linium perenne
(Perennial Flax)... blue July
i Lobelia syphilitica . . . dark blue . . . July, Aug.
D Lychnis flos cuculi fl
pi (Ranged Robin). .rose May, June
D Flos Jovis (Flower
of Jove) majenta June, July
4 Viscaria fl pi majenta May, June
lulgens scarlet May, June
Lysimachia (Looset
Strife)
e ciliata yellow June, July
D e clethroides white June, Sept.
Melissa (Bnlra) M'/ittc, eto... June, Aug.
D i Mertensia Virginica
(Lungwort ) flne blue . . May, June
A Narcissus (Daffodils)
Many flne kinds.. .i/ciloi(i,whife,
etc April, May
C CEnothera (Evening
Pi imrosc) several
kinds j/6UOTt',u'?i itc. June, Sept
Orobua vernus (Bitter-
vetch dark purple May, June
Phlox Carolina pink purple May, June
divaricata (Spread-
ing Phlor) ..lavender . . .May, June
pileus(Hair!/ P/Woj-lrosc red .. May, June
6 Podophyllum pelta-
tum (May Apple-
Matulrake) white .- May
Polemonium (.Greek
Valerian) blue May
Turhiii II, ininii , I- icnni'iniiilii r,n i.iiliicaturbinata.)
e i Pi-unclla (Self Heal). inirplc, while Juuc, July
Ranunculus irroic-
foot) aconititolius.u'httc May. June
C acrisflpl (Double>yeUow May, June
i Sarracenia iPitcher
plant) purpurea., yellow Summer
h Scduin iStone Crop)
spectabile (Shouy
Sedum) 7'(wi/ j««rj)i<;.Sept. Oct.
Telephium hybrid-
um dark rose.. .July, Sept.
Sidalacea Malvseflora
( Indian Mellow)... purple July
Stokesia cyanea blue A ug. Oct,
1889.
POPULAR GARDENING.
23
IJ Tr.uiesiantia ^^'|<i((ll■-
tvort) Vinfinica
various blue, while.
etc
May, Au^.
CAMPANULA CARPATHICA PELVIFORMIS.
Trollius laxus iGlobc
Floircr} bellow April
Veronica (Sj)e«dweli).. blue May, June
(To be Continued.)
Buffalo Fair Observations.
The great industrial fair here and in other
cities now seem to be an assuredly perman-
ent annual institution, and as a factor of
educating the masses, who have their views
broadened by what they see here, and their
store of general knowledge replenished,
they should not be underrated.
Yet the first impression the visitor receives
on entering the fair grounds, is usually not
a favorable one. Every device by which the
unsophisticated farmer might be induced to
part with his hard-earned money, is (for a
consideration) permitted by the manage-
ment to unfold itself. We are glad to note
the unqualified condemnation of this feature
of the fairs by the general public, and as no
abuse can long hold out when public indig-
nation has once been ftilly aroused against
it, we have no doubt that the end of this
side show and fake business at the fairs is
near at hand.
Tropical vegetation always has a peculiar
charm for northern people, and we were
much pleased with the fine specimen of
Cocos nucifera (Cocoanut Palm) about 30
feet high, and loaded with nuts in various
stages of development, with the several
Banana plants in fruiting, and Pineapples,
etc., all brought from Florida and the West
ladies, growing along in immense boxes.
Missouri has done herself especial credit
by her fine and extensive exhibit of Apples
— Apples of every color, size, shape and var-
iety. Apparently there are some sections of
the United States where Apples have es-
caped the dangers that beset the fruit so
thickly in the earlier part of this season.
The far northwest, the States in the
vicinity of Puget Sound — proved the right-
eousness of their claims of superior advan-
tages in the production of Cabbages and
Cauliflower, and theii- seeds, etc., by exhib-
iting some really fine specimens, veritable
" Snowballs," and pretty large ones, too,
among Cauliflowers, Cabbage heads of
bushel basket size, and Onions large and
perfect.
Among the Potatoes we recognized again
as " best early "' our old favorites, the Early
Ohio and Early Sunrise.
From Ellwanger & Barry, of course, came
an exhibit ot Pears, not as extensive, owing
to the earliness of the season, as we used to
see it at the annual meeting of the Western
New York Horticultural Society at Roches-
ter, but of the usual superiority.
For the benefit of the ladies we should
mention the Cataract washing machine, of
which there were a number of them, in var-
ious sizes, and for hand and steam power, in
successful operation. No simlper or better
machine has ever come to our notice.
The following are the chief successful ex-
hibitors of horticulture products, receiving
awards as mentioned.
Wm. Rhatmier, St. Catharines, Ont., two 1st,
four 2d premiums on Pears; two 1st and one 2d
on Plums; one 1st and two 2d on Peaches.
Ale.\. Glass, St. Catherines. Ont., 1st premium
on Louise Bonne ; 1st on Duane's Purple Plum.
John Black, St. Davids, Ont., six 1st and si.v 2d
on Pears and Grapes; 2d on Bradshaw Plum; two
1st and live 2d on Apples; live 1st on Peaches.
Thos. Plunkett, Meadford, Ont., three 1st, one
second on Plums.
Chas. Grant, Thomburg, Ont., three Ist and
one 2d on Plums.
Ellwanger & Barry, of Rochester, N, Y., four-
teen 1st premiums, one 2d premium on Pears;
seven 1st, four 2d premiums on Plums.
Peter Allen. Nia{?ara, Ont., one 1st premium
and four 2d premiums on Pears: one 1st, one 2d
on Plums; two 1st, five 2d on Apples; two Ist on
Peaches.
Wootlward & Jacques, Wright's Comers, N. Y.,
two 1st, three 2d on Pears; four 1st and Ave 2d on
Apples.
Henry Lutts, Youngstown, N. Y., two 1st, three
2d premiums on Pears; one 1st and two 2d on
Plums; 1st on Transcendent Cnsb; nine 1st and
thirteen 2d on Peaches.
Jno. T. Bird, Wrights Corners, N. Y., 1st on
Hyslop Apple.
W. H. Walworth, Hillsdale, Mich., two 1st and
three 3d on Apples.
VEGETABLES.
C. F. Vanderhoff, West Elmira, N. Y., twenty-
three 1st on Potatoes; two 1st on Beans.
H. G. Stillman, Almond, N. Y., twenty-three
1st and seventeen 2d on vegetables.
FLOWERS.
S. Pickleman, Buffalo, three 1st and nine 2d
on plants and flowers.
Wm. Scott, Buffalo, ten 1st and two 3d on cut
flowers and designs; thirteen 1st on pot plants;
one 2d on pot plants.
Daniel B. Long, Buffalo, two 1st and three 3d
on cut Bowers and designs.
F. J. Kennedy, HornellsviUe, N. Y., 1st on
Pansies.
O. S. Jacques, Wrights Corners. N. Y., 1st on
best display of Dahlias.
F. Katall, Buffalo, three 1st on plants, one 2d
on same.
Landscape Gardening in High-
Colored Foliage.
{Concluded from September V^tnie.)
[Paper by Wm. McMillan, Superintendent of the Buf-
falo Parks, before the Society of A/nerican Ftorijtts.1
Is this new fashion better than the old way?
Formerl.v flowers were cultivated solely for their
individual qualities. Delicacy of tints and lines
was more valued than strong color, and
line perfume more than either. Our regard for
them was in direct proportion to our knowledge
ot the finer traits of character gained only by in-
timate acquaintance with their daily behavior
under aU circumstances. Our love was for the
individual plants rather than for the general as-
semblage—for the features revealed by close ac-
(juai ntance, not merely the strong lines seen from
afar. It was won by the true test of long famil-
iarity instead by fascinating novelty.
The general aspect of mixed borders of Bulbs,
Annuals, Perennials and sweet-smeUing Herbs,
or of miscellaneous collections of favorite flow-
ers in rectangular panels, was not so neat and
trim as clipped beds of fancy forms on shaven
lawns: but all the season through, from the
first Snowdrop to the latest Aster, each day
brought another flower into bloom, and an
ever changing phase in the annual growth of
each plant to maturit.v. Our chief foliage plants
in this latitude do not last quite four months, and
their general aspect is the same from the first
day to the last, except only in the density of the
foliage, or a slight increase of color. Color
apart, a bed of pot herbs has less sameness
throughout the season, while the fragrance
their leaves exhale is a constant source of
pleasure more refined than can be given through
the eye by any variegated leaves, however finely
veined, stained, mottled, spotted or splashed.
To the true lover of flowers, high color either
in leaf or blossom is but one of imany points of
interest. The habit of growth from the swelling
bud to the fading leaf may be a greater source
ot enjoyment, or the fragrance of the bloom
may he the chief attraction as in Alyssum, Mig-
nonette.Heliotrope, Violet, and Lily of the Valley.
Where the interest lies chiefly in the foliage
such bedding plants as give a tropical luxuri-
ance of growth are surely a flner sight than any
mixture of the carpet bedding class. Various
kinds of Canna, Caladium, Aralia and Castor Oil
plant are commonly used in such beds but
there are many others of like character. Their
rapid growth and great size at maturity give a
sub-tropical aspect to the group. Some of the
sedges and grasses of warm climates are especial-
ly beautiful and effective for this purpose. Some
plants ot this class have a stri|)ed variegation
with a trul.v natural look and much real beauty.
It may have originated as a "sport" but when
it has long been knf>wn it conveys no hint of
being odd or ephemeral. The Eulalia, striped
Maize, and even the old fashioned Gardener's
Garter are well-known examples.
If variety, richness, and contrast of color be
the chief aim of the florist why should he seek it
in leaves of plants, beyond the natural range
from the lightest gra.v to the darkest green which
nature spontaneously exhibits. The shades of
green are so infinite that no two species of plants
have exactly the same hue, and the manner in
which these mingle and blend in any natural
landscape, if closely studied and copied, will give
more real pleasure than the highest art in ara-
besque designs in white, yellow, and red. If all
the colors of the rainbow be wanted in a group
they may be furnished in flowers. Every shade
imaginable may be matched by some plant. But
the taste is surely morbid that would seek to
combine in one group any greater variety of
tint than may be furnished in many cases by a
single genus, as in the Tulip, Hyacinth. Phlox,
Dahlia, Hollyhock, or Columbine. Yet the hunt
for a blue Dahlia or Hollyhock, a .yellow Aster,
or Verbena, is still kept up, and is akin in spirit
to that in which some new mixture of white, yel-
low and red in the leaf is sought after. The whole
work is false to nature and the foreign color due
to disease or distress rather than '* sport."
In the present fashion of using strongly
contrasted colors in garden decoration, the
strong tendency to run to extremes is well shown
in the style of embellishment among the poor
for their small dooryards or parterres. It has
been well said that imitation is the sineerest flat-
tery. Hence, we often see in such places a col-
lection of pebbles and cobbles, oyster and clam
shells, and such like, arranged in border edgings,
ribbons, and mounds on the carpet bedding style.
When newly whitewashed these rival in force of
color and distinctness of design any foliage bed.
The imitation is sometimes very good, and who
now can question the taste displayed or the fit-
ness of the materials used? Round pebbles or
even shells make an admirable substitute for the
fleshy vegetable rosettes we call " hen and
chickens." They will border a bed or outline a
figure with equal distinctness, and vary as little
in form or aspect during the season. For inlaid
THE DOUBLE-FLOWERING TIGER LILY.
letters in the grass they are even better adapted
than the plants we see used. The inscription is
clearer and easier to read, and the whitewashed
stones and shells are really the most befitting
material for such work. Shakespeare wrote it
would be folly to 'gild refined gold, paint the
Lily, or add a perfume to the Violet.' His satire
would have lost its fine point if in his day it had
been as common as it is in ours, to embellish
dooryai-ds and lawns with whitewashed quartz or
painted sea shells, to decorate graves with dyed
24
POPULAR GARDENING.
October,
tin u3i-t3Ue3, anil mantelpieces with stained
grasses, or add a new scent to a bouquet with
drug store perfumery.
That the taste is corrupt, which approves or
applauds the prevalent practices of gardeners in
this line, is sufficiently shown by the ob\ious
tendency of the fashion. The motive is not to
encourage an intimate acijuaintance with flowers
or plants, but simply to show what brilliant or
bizarre effects can be produced by ingenious
combinations of strange colors. Hence the de-
mand for novelty and intricacy increases from
year to year, and the strain aftereffect continues
till the laborious effort becomes grotesque or
burlesque. The first designs in ribbons, bands,
diamonds, stars, crescents, crosses, crowns,
heai'ts, anchors, and such like no longer sufiBce.
In like manner simple figures of the geometric [
pattern are only of use while novel. They must
gradually grow in elaborate intricacy till simple
wheels and dials become a blind maze of scrolls and
convolutions. Then imitations of animals begin •
and advance from elephants and camels to zebras,
giraffes, swans, peacocks, butterflies, snakes and
sea serpents. Inscriptions in the grass are also
tried, giving perhaps the name of the place, the
year or month, or date, the last of course to be
changed daily, and so on with labored variations
till every possible device be exhausted. The same
designs give little satisfaction if simply renewed
yearly, for such things once seen have lost the
novelty which is their chief claim to attention.
The fashion must surely soon run its coui-se be-
cause of sheer inability to produce startling
effects. If it were the plants under natural con-
ditions that were visited, their seasonal changes
might satisfy the eye. But we look at them
only in bulk to follow the design, and that is
always the same throughout the season. When
invention flags or fails, the popular surprise and
admiration is drawn out by making larger beds
or a greater and more elaborate assortment of
them. This has led onward and downward till
collections of several hundred thousand plants
have been set out in some private gardens and
public grounds
The absurdity of the leading motive in carpet
bedding may be found in listening to the kind of
talk we often hear from ardent enthusiasts of
the practice. A shallow amateur in such work
who has not before seen the highest art in this
line visits some notable display on some fine
private estate or large public ground, and on his
return regales his gaping friends with some such
description as this: " You can form no idea of
the immense quantity of plants in such a gar-
den. A 10-acre lot would be well filled if all
were put together. The edgings and rib-
bons if strung out on end would measure over
a mile. They were of nearly every imaginable
color you can find in the stores. The ring-
streaked, speckled and spotted plants, and those
with aU shades of bronze and gold were legion.
They were set out with the most wonderful in-
genuity into so many patterns that carpet bed-
ding was no name for it. There were Turkish
rugs, church windows, wheels within wheels,
figures of animals, statuary, fancy penmanship
and plain print, and elegant figures of aU
kinds in geometry,trigonometry and astronomy."
What? Astronomy! " Why certainly."
"The first thing that struck my eye was a
bright bed of fire-red Colons, a circular mound
raised high up in the form of a half globe. That
was a sunset when there is a thick haze on the
hoiizon. Near by was a crescent in variegated
Alyssum. That was the silver moon. I could
not tell whether she was in the last quarter or
the first; the horns pointed to the north, and
were equally correct for either phase Next
came a bed that seemed a combination of both
the others. Two-thirds of it was filled with the
darkest-leaved Coleus, the other third was a
crescent of variegated Stevia in bloom. This
was an eclipse. I could not at first tell whether
it was the sun or the moon that was eclipsed.
After a little study I ' got on ti> ' the gardener's
trick. It was either or both, according to your
pleasure or fancy All around were lots of little
stars and one or two small disks curiously belted
and girdled. Ha\ing seen pictures of the tele-
scopic appearance of Jupiter and Saturn I at
once divnieil the meaning.
"There wiis any number of figures of men and
beasts and birds and fishes. A military officer in
full uniform was very imposing A base ball
player with club drawn, and two prize fighters in
full tilt looked dangerous. A boat race of two
boats and two rowers in each pulling the oars
was quite e-vciting. In statuary the finest design
I saw was a cc ipy of St. George killing the dragon
It was full of spirit and action. A little puff of
wind now and again crossing the dragon's head
made his Jaws seem to open and shut (luickly.
The feathery stuff used for the tail of the steed
actually whisked gently in the breeze.
" The brightest spot of all had a display of
flags of all the leading nations. The tricolor the
union jack and even the stars and stripes were
easily imitated, but some of. the others tried the
highest art of the gardener. In the geometry
section I was for a long while puzzled by a most
intricate figure, the meaning of which I could
not make out. At last I detected a faint outline
of an arch spanning the whole; that gave me the
clew. It was the tough jiroblem in Euclid called
the asses' bridge. I remember how it puzzled me
when at school, and it is just as hard to see
through it in a flower bed."
_ MAN HOLE
UNDERGROUND ROOT-CELLAR. See pOflie 22.
This " traveler's tale," like the plants he saw
was perhaps rather high-colored, but it is in the
same line with the general run of such talk. He
may have followed the wrong cue at times, but
he did not stray far from the right track A
lively imagination may have seen some figures
and emblems not intended by the designer. But
worse things than any here described have been
actually done. Butterflies have been attempted in
a combination of leaves and flowers, living and
dead, trained to a frame and set in high relief that
they may seem merely to touch mother earth. For
special gala occasions models of swans have been
covered with newly detached petals of Water
Lilies and set afloat on artificial ponds. Calen-
dars, sun dials and weather vanes have been
tricked out in living plants, with painstaking
care to furnish daily some useful information,
in no other way obtainable, about the weather,
the date of the month, and time of day (if the sun
shine). These ridiculous conceits and all other
monstrous creations of this kind are strictly
in accord with the ruling motive of the simplest
work in the same line. It is either folly or false,
hood from beginning to end, because so at vari-
ance with the " eternal fitness of things."
The many odd and whimsical patterns into
which foliage plants are woven, are in degree
only (not in kind), more objectionable than the
mere grouping together of large masses of
strong color of every hue. Were this display
confined to flowers only, it would not perhaps be
so glaringly offensive as in foliage, because in
flowers brightness and endless varictyof color are
natural. But to collect together, even in flowers,
all the strongest colors we can flnd. and to mass
them into strongly contrasted bands and figures
in the present bedding out style, would surely
not be considered in good taste. Should we not
seek for rich shades rather than glaring contrasts
for quality rather than quantityV As a lady of
fashion once wittily said, "Do we measure beauty
by the square yard 1 " Strange though it may
seem, there are some persons who would prefer
one sweet Violet to one acre of Coleus. But in
carpet bedding it is the broadest carpets and the
boldest patterns that draw the biggest crowds.
To the commercial florist that is a better " trade
mark " than the " government stamp." Whether
it elevates or degrades the public taste seems of
less consequence.
But Fashion is a fickle minded Queen, especially
to subjects of her own sex. When a fancy notion
of no intrinsic value has literally been run into
the ground, as this one has been, a slight hint
from the Throne would quickly change the vogue.
Florists now-a-days arc like millinci-s in their
abject dependence on the lattst whim of her
Majesty. It may therefore be more profitable in
the long run to give timely regard to the more
general cultivation of such bedding plants as
will attract attentii>u by some admirable cjuality
inherent in each individual plant, whether it be
in flower, fragrance, fruit, foliage or form. To
embellish a garden with such plants, however
uninviting at first it may be to the ignorant, will
give more real enjoyment to the true lover of
flowers than to emblazon it with merely so much
high color cleverly arranged.
In other things a fondness for loud colors is
not considered in good taste or a sign of refine-
ment. Take dress for instance. The phrase,
" barbaric pearl and gold " is as applicable to the
color as to the richness of the apparel. The
fashions in dress of the Chinaman, the Arab,
and the Turk are not copied by civilized nations,
or if imitated at all it is done only by ignorant
and foolish people. Aunt Dinah may go to her
work in the cotton field in a yellow skirt, blue
wrap and red bandanna. (Jiddy girls may wear
" dolly varden " calicoes, and silly dudes loud
tartans, only to be laughed at by sensible people.
The circus clown is true to his assumed character
in his suit of strongly marked stripes and bars,
and Shakespeare's fool quite consistently ex-
claims, "Motley is the only weai'." When we
dress up a garden after the same fashion it
ought to seem equally barbaric and foolish, ex-
cept to ignorant or foolish people. True refine-
ment in either case avoids the cheap and con-
spicuous, and selects for the richest adornment
the choicest material and the softest harmony
of tints.
Some of you perhaps may say that " as gardens
are made expressly for show and ornament why
J^DRAiNuot bedeck them with anything and everything
v • [" \' that is bright and beautifulV" But what is the
beautiful 'I "Aye there's the rub." No satisfac-
tor.v answer can be given to that question. It is
a common saying "there is no accounting for
tastes." Beauty appeals maiul.v to the eye, but
in some subtle way we become sensible of it
through other senses. We may not touch it but
it touches us. In a double sense we judge it by
taste as well as by sight. A ripe pei-simmon has
a brighter color than the finest apple, but after
you try to eat it, the bloom on the apple cheek
will probably have to your eye the more inviting
look. There are some persons who doubt if to
them " a Kose by any other name would smell as
sweet," or if with its delicious fragrance gone it
would look as sweet. On a warm summer day,
when a gentle breeze fans the foUage of the
Birch or Poplar, the rhythmical patter struck up
by the dancing motion of the joyous leaves, will
trill sweet music in the ear, and thus reveal a new
glimpse of beauty to the eye of any one loving-
ly familiar with these trees, and in sjmpathy
with their merry mood at such a time. This
phenomenon may not be audible norvisibie to
other people, because however intently we may
listen or look, the strain wUl not be heai-d nor the
vision seen, unless our ears be attuned to the
right key, and our eyes be opened to receive the
light. Our sensibility to the beautiful in na-
ture thus varies with each individual, as so much
depends not only on the relative acuteness of our
senses, but also on constitutional temperament,
mental faculty and personal culture.
Beauty of color esiwcially depends largely upon
the light in which it is seen. For illustration,
take these opposing views regarding foliage
plants. To you as florists your exotic plants look
so beautiful on the greenhouse bench among
their own kith and kin, that to your eyes an illu-
sive haio maj' surround them when you see them
set out amid the grass and gravel and shrubbery.
When you look at the landscape from the inside
of your glasshouses your plants are in the fore-
ground, and all else is dim, distant and diminu-
tive, as if seen through the small end of a field
glass. I, on the other hand, standing out amid the
native vegetation, see only the " foreign look " of
the strange foliage. Because it is " not to the
manor born" I may look at it through jaundiced
eyes. The point of view being so different, the
objects seen must have an equally different per-
spective
It will seem to you therefore, that I have got
hold of the wrong end of the telescope. This
may all be. Mi>st people see as you do else such
woi-k would not be so popular. But here and
there I have met a few whose vision seemed as
strangely affected as mine. We may be color
blind to the beauty without knowing it, or we
look at these things by camilc light while you are
in the sunshine. My standpoint may be a wrong
one, but I simply report things as I see them,
and say frankly why I don't like them. To both
sides, perhaps, the aphorisms may be applicable:
"things are not what they seem,"
POPULAR GARDENING
AND FRUIT GROWING.
"ACCUSK NOT NJTrUK. SlIK HATH DONE HER PART: DO THOU BUT 7'f/iJVfc'." -Milton.
Vol. V.
isro'VE^yLBEia xsss.
No. 2.
Purple dawns will flood no more
Starry Asters bendiuy: low;
nei^n of Golden-rod Is o'er.
Ut with sunshine's overflow;
Fields where armed Corn ho-s stood.
Gold flres flashed from spear to spear,
Now are left in solitude-
It's November, dear.
The Cellar is all right to keep a few vege-
tables for early use; but it is no place for winter
storage.
Japanese Pei!,simmons require protection dur-
ing the wint<?r even as far south as Philadelphia,
and then they do not seem inclined to bear in the
open ground.
Exotic Grapes. Mr.D. M. Dunning, as an am-
ateur growerof Grapes under glass, is doing quito
well. One of his clusters this season he reports to
be 'JO inches long, and weighing about 10 pounds.
Seeds of Pigweed, Mustard, Purslane, and many
other common weeds sprouted vigorously after
having been buried about twenty inches deep for
nearly ten years. This was the result of a test
recently made.
The TRAILING Spiderwort, also known as Wan-
dering Jew, an Irish plant, common though it
be, is one of the best of house plants. There are
several varieties. Grow them to trail from a
hanging basket or other suspended receptacle.
Plants ln reasonable number add an element
of brightness to the sitting room; but when .vou
make a florist's establishment of it, crowding
tables, mantel shelves and e%'ery available spot
with flower pots, the home-like appearance is
gone, and home comfort takes its departure.
Packing Cions and Buds A little damp moss
from which all the water has been squeezed ;
oiled paper wotmd around, and this wound with
thread. Heavy manilla pai)er on outside with
address. That's all. Plants should only have the
roots thus packed, while leaves and tops should
be more or less open to the air.
The Australian lady bird is now raised and
distributed in California to such an extent that
it is expected that they will soon be able to hold
the cottony cushion scale, upon which they feed,
and which is a very serious enemy to Orange
and Lemon trees, in check, or clear it out entire-
ly. Oan't entomologists tell us how to assist our
native ladybirds to increase more rapidly, and
thus secure more efficient help in our warfare
against Potato beetles, plant lice and many other
insect foes ?
Prof. Riley Much Honored. Republics are
not always ungrateful. The French Government,
in recognition of the important ser\'ices which
Prof.Chas.V.Riley.through his researches regard-
ing the Phylloxera and Grape diseases, rendered
not only to the Grape growers of the United
States, but to those of France and othercountries
also, has created him a " Chevalier of the Legion
of Honor." Our deserving fellow citizen has also
just been elected an honorary fellow of the En-
tomological Society of London. This is a rare
distinction, as there are only ten living honorary
fellows at present.
Flowers and Railroads. The Pennsylvania
Railroad Co. is deserving of much credit in its
pioneer work of adorning the grounds about its
stations with flowers, shrubs and trees. What
has especially pleased us in these adornments is
the fact that more dependance is placed on the
use of hardy plants than upon tender bedding
kinds. Not that fine showy beds of Coleus, Ger-
aniums etc. are lacking about the stations but
they are second in importance to the hardy kinds
used. Tsunlly the borders of plants and shrubs
are jilanted as back ground to the bit of lawn
adjunct to the stations, and in the beauty and
variety of the growths employed the}' make a
pleasing picture to the eyes of travellers. fJther
things equal who would not for their journejings
choose a road that leads along the garden sta-
tions to any other?
What William Falconer has to say
about the Popular Gardening
Grounds.
When I was at Buflfalo, at the florists'
convention, I went out to La Salle to
see the Popular Gardening Experiment
Grounds. La Salle is a country station on
the Niagara river, about 17 miles from Buff-
alo and .5 miles from Niagara Falls, and the
railroad .iourney between Buffalo and La
Salle is about half an hour's ride. The Ex-
periment Grounds are a third of a mile
from the station and border on Cayuga creek
a considerable stream that passes into the
Niagara at La Salle.
At the railroad station the editor's son, a
sturdy youth with glowing cheeks and a flan-
nel shirt was there to meet us and row us
home. Another gentleman of our party took
an oar, then under the brawn of youth and
ease of practice we sped along delightfully.
On both sides of the creek the banks
are high and dry, often steep, and well
wooded with a variety of indigenous decid-
uous trees and shrubs; and these banks were
then gayly checkered with the coral fruit of
the CratiEgus, the bright red cymes of the
Cranberry tree and the blue berries of the
wild Dogwoods. And the water margins
were fringed withArrow leaf,Pickerel Weed,
Pond Lilies and other wild plants peculiar to
such a situation. Other atjuatic and bog
plants are being naturalized in the creek
and along its sides by the editor.
We land, and climb the foot-path up the
bank, and here is spread before us a broad
and highly cultivated level country, with
good soil and good crops and displaying care-
ful antl clean cultivation on every hand.
Before my visit to it I had an impression that
the Experiment Grounds were in a wild and
woody and swampy country, and I can as-
sure you I was surprised to flud my impres-
sion erroneous. There is no swamp about
it, for the creek is narrowed into a deep chan-
nel by high wooded banks. The grounds
are all open and had long been cultivated as
farm lands. The editor's house is a comfort-
able, roomy structure upon the grounds and
close by the boat landing. But don't think
that by row-boat is the only way of getting
here, for there is an excellent carriage road
between the grounds and the station and
elsewhere into the country. The whole
place impressed me as being a cosy, pleas-
ant, healthful, happy, rural home.
Changing the contour of the place from
agricultural fields to a progressive Horticul-
tural Experiment Garden has necessitated
a great deal of painstaking work, and, in-
deed, the editor has already made more pro-
gress in this direction than I had any idea of.
He has graded a good deal of the ground,
especially near the creek to suit his land-
scape tastes, led winding pathways along
the wooded banks ot the Cayuga, planted a
host of hardy ferns and the prettiest of oiu'
wild flowers where they are most likely to
A Flat Dibber.
See Next Page.
naturalize themselves under the shade of the
trees and shrubs, and constructed little rus-
tic rests or summer houses for the enjoy-
ment of his family, visitors, and friends.
Kockworks have also been formed, partly
under the trees and partly in open sunny
places so that the pretty, little hardy flowers
that might get grown over or lost in the
mixed borders or beds, may And therein a
select site and en.ioy conditions most fitted
to their wants. A large assortment of orna-
mental trees and shrubs, including some of
the newest introductions have been brought
together and seem to enjoy their quarters.
Lawns have been laid out and flower beds
made and filled, and a
multitude of hardy her-
baceous Perennials have
been planted in prepared
borders. A large number of
fiuit trees. Grape vines, berry
bushes and Strawberry plants
have been set out systematic-
ally, and many kinds and
varieties of vegetables were
in luxuriant vigor.
" But of what good is an
E.xperiment Garden to me,
anyway?" some may ask.
Just this much: POPULAR
Gardening is a horticultur-
al paper, and it presumes to
teach you all about fruits,
flowers and vegetables; It Is
for the information ou these
topics that you buy it. And you want posi-
tive and authentic information. You don't
want information that is fudged from other
books or old catalogues, a rehash of old writ-
ings. You buy and pay for the raw, origi-
nal truth, for facts, not guesswork.'and you
have a right to get them. Neither the editor
of Popular Gardening nor any other hor-
ticultural editor can get up a brilliant gar-
dening paper in a dry office alone, no matter
how much he used to know or what practice
he used to have. Horticulture is so progres-
sive that only a man in practical harness can
keep pace with it. And this is why you have
got a Popular Gardening Experiment
Garden.
To begin with, it is the editor's home; he
lives there summer and winter, and he will
exerci.se his utmost endeavors to make it a
comfortable and enjoyable home for his fam-
ily; in fact that it is already. He has plant-
ed orchards of different kinds of fruit trees,
and is right here on the ground among
them, watching them, and tending them in
every way and noting their behavior, and
he can tell you from positive experience
everything about them. He does not plant
a large number of anything, only enough
for a fair sample or test; it is living informa-
tion that he is after, and plants the good,
the bad and the indifferent, so that he can
note them all for your benefit. And he does
the same thing with all manner of Grape
vines, vegetables, flowers and trees. He
raises nothing for market, all are grown for
experiment. He is obliged to keep up with
the times and get and grow every new kind
of fruit tree, vine, Rose, or other plant.
Whether the " new " kinds are distinct from
old sorts or not he knows it, for, growing
both, he has the opportunity for comparison.
26
POPULAR GARDENING.
November,
And, if new, he can quickly tell whether
they are worth growing or not.
All fertilizers and insecticides he has got
to try, also every method of cultivation and
Implement used in garden work.
And all this experiment-
ing is for the benefit of the
readers of PoprL.\K G.\R-
DEXIXG. You get the infor-
mation right from the field,
and if it doesn't exactly fit
your case, to get what you
want need only cost you a
cent for a postal card and
the trouble of writing your
query on the card and
mailing it.
I, myself, have done a
great deal of experimenting
work, and I can assure you
it takes up a deal of time,
incurs much labor, re-
quires great painstaking
and considerable book-
keeping, but on the other hand there is
much pleasure, and edification in it.
Improved Dibber.
Improvement In Planting- Dibbers.
The dibbers in general use are yet the
same clumsy affairs which have done ser-
vice in the gardens for generations. We do
not concede them to be perfect, and believe
that it is high time we should look for some-
thing better and more convenient. Mr. C.
D. Zimmermann, a subscriber, calls our at-
tention to improved styles of dibber appar-
ently made by some manufacturer, but
neither patented, nor energetically pushed to
the front. We illustrate two styles, of
which we would give the flat, heart-shaped
pattern, with a handle similar to that of a
spade, the preference. The blades are of
polished steel.
Our informant has used them. They are
not generally known as they ought to be. he
writes. In fact they are seldom met with
among market gardeners. The latter cling
to the wooden, or possibly an iron-pointed
wooden tool, that is as inferior to a
polished steel dibber as a wooden plow is to
a steel plow. Three times the number of
plants can be put into the ground with the
newer device, and they will be planted
out much firmer. Any blacksmith can
make the tool, and once tried, it will
be highly prized .
during winter than is absolutely necessary
to keep the balls moist, and it is good for
the plants that these should become rather
dry sometimes, as then more air is let into
the soil, and air sweetens and purifies.
The time of greatest danger with hard-
wooded subjects is immeadiately after they
have been potted, as then it often happens
that the water passes away through the new
soil without wetting the old. This occurs
through non-amalgamation of the two, the
one being comparatively loose and open, and
the other hard and impervious. To make
matters safe, with such things as Azaleas, it
is a good plan, before repotting takes place,
and after the plants are knocked out of their
pots, to soak the balls by standing them in
a tub of water, and after they have been there
some few hours, they should be stood aside
to drain. So treated, there is no fear of the
centres being dry, and instead of watering
becoming necessary immediately potting is
over, and the plants requiring it frequently
after, they will stand without for some
time, and gradually get hold of the fre-sh peat
which, when used, ought to be in a moist,
useable condition, as in that state it can be
pressed or rammed firmly; which is essential
to good potting of these plants.
A cultivator who is accustomed to the cul-
tivation of plants knows at a glance when to
give water, and if he cannot see the .surface
of the soil distinctly can quickly tell by the
ring of the pot, as this, when rapped by the
knuckle, gives out a clear sound if the ball
be dry, and a dull Head response if the re-
verse. Shis latter is caused by the pressure
of the soil on the sided, owing to its expansion
and ring by contraction, through the water
being out and air in instead. Another guide
to plant growers is the condition of the top
of the plant, as the quantity or frequency of
watering depends much on the amount of
the foliage, or whether fresh growth is tak-
ing place, for with abundant leafage, and
more forming, the power of absorption by the
roots is great, as so much is taken up and
evaporated on bright sunny days, and the
same if there is a head of bloom to support.
This draws much on their resources, and
atmospheric conditions outside affect plants
much, as when there is a quick movement
How Often Shall I Water?
It seems a simple enough problem to
keep our pot-plants supplied with suffic-
ient moisture all the time, and yet it has
its difficulties for the inexperienced.
Many flower lovers think they give their
plants the very best of care, and pet them
with daily washes and waterings, and yet
a large percentage of such pampered
plants are suffering from want of water
where they need it, at their roots. Some-
times again the pots are deficient in
drainage, and the plants suffer from ex-
cess of water at their roots. Again some
plants require a different treatment from
others in this respect.
Great discrimination is needed, says a
writer in Gardeners Chronicle, as without
it much harm may be done, and especially
is this so during the dead time of year,
when there is little or no activity in vege-
tation, and both plants and roots are almost
dormant, and not only so, but at the period
referred to, there is nothing to bring about
dryness, and soil that is made wet then soon
becomes sour and inert. The plants which
suffer most when they get into that condi-
tion, are those of a hard-wooded nature that
re<iuire peat to grow in, and if this is made
sodden the fine roots .soon die, or, if they live
they become sickly. To prevent this, they
should have no more water afforded them
Self-Supporting Fruit Ladder.
S. C. CASE, Hr.NTERDOS COXTSTY, S. J.
I send you herewith sketch of a self-sup-
porting fruit ladder, such as used principal-
ly by the Peach-growers of this county. It
never totters, always sets perfectly solid
even on the hill side and is pronounced by '
all to be the best ladder in use.
The sides and tongue should be inch Pine
boards clear of knots or flaws, foiir and a
half inches wide. The two bottom rounds
are 3 inches, and the iiext2^{ inches, and all
the rest 2 inches wide. Let in the sides
(dove tailed) to keep them from spreading
apart, and fasten with a '2^.< inch screw in
each end. There should be two short bits
of tapering boards nailed on the sides where
the tongue is held by on iron bolt. The
rounds are 1.5 inches apart.
This description and dimensions are for
a ladder 12 feet long. For a shorter one
lighter stuff may be used. Material, for
the 12 foot ladder cost about 7.5 cents.
Anybody of ordinary ingenuity can make
it, and it is not patented.
A SELF SUPPORTING FRUIT LADDER.
of air, and it is dry and light, it licks up, as
it were, all moisture on its way, and makes
foliage look distressed from the loss. To rec-
tify this, a sprinkling of the floor of the house
the plants are in, or a syringing overhead, or
both, is the best thing; but the latter only
when the sun is off, and the revival will be
quick and apparant. Plants with large
fleshy roots and big leaves drink freely, and
at and after this time for some months to
come cannot %vell be over-watered; and yet
in their case judgement is required, or the
best of soils may be spoiled.
London Purple and Paris Green.
Some of our subscribers complain of in-
jury done to their fruit trees, especially
Peaches, by what they state to be " careful "
applications of London purple in weak solu-
tions, and seem inclined to criticise the
course of the horticultural and agricultural
press (ourselves included) in speaking as
favorably of the poison compared with Paris
green. Indeed, we think the fruit-grower is
here placed before a serious problem. Our
first experience with London purple, years
ago, we must confess, had served to preju-
dice us against its use. We thought that
there was a far too narrow margin between
its effectiveness as an insect killer, and its
injuriousness to plant growth, to make its
use altogether safe. We tried it on Potatoes,
both in dry mixtures and in solutions.
Sometimes it did excellent work without
injury to the folliage; at other times and
with other samples even the weakest appli-
cations seemed to scorch the leaves badly
without showing the effect on thebugs which
we desired. At last we concluded that
there is lack of uniformity in the material
as put on the market, and altogether too
large an element of uncertainty in its
composition. Hence we abandoned its
use for that of Paris green. The fault
may have been ours. Perhaps we did not
mix or apply London purple_ properly.
We never used it in spray form, and
perhaps applied it too copiously. But
we are usually careful in such matters,
and hardly think we were the one to
blame.
Afterwards London purple got a boom,
and we heard good reports about it from
everywhere. We began to waver in our
conclusions, and were almost induced to
give it another trial. The highest horti-
cultural authorities spoke in favor of it,
and it is less than a year ago (at the meet-
ing of the Western New York Horticul-
tural Society at Rochester, we believe)
that we have heard Prof. A. J. Cook
of the Michigan College of Agricul-
ture emphatically declare that we should
use London purple, and say nothing more
about Paris green. The teachings of such
an authority who has given much attention
to insects and their destruction, we could
not well refuse to accept with considerable
respect, and to commend them to our
readers' attention.
This season, however, it seems tliat Prof.
Cook has got hold of a different sample of
the purple, thus again showing the lack of
uniformity in the article. In a recent num-
ber of the Rural New Yorker we find the
1889.
POPULAR GARDENING.
27
followini; from Prof. Cook's pen, and it
sounds very different from his former teach-
infrs of less than a year ago: "' Many and
seriois complaints come from fruit-growers
regarding injury done to Peach trees which
were sprayed with I>on-
dou purple. I have ex-
perimented very full}" in
this matter. It seems that
London purple is far more
injurious than is Paris green.
The latter, used one pound to
I1KI gallons of water— a mix-
ture at least twice too strong
— and twice repeated, did
almost no harm; a mixture
one-half the strength did no
harm at all. The London
purple of the first strength
always did some harm and
often serious damage. A rain
just after the application
seems to increase the damage.
One pound to 2(Xi gallons of
water injuries Peach, Cherry,
Apple and Plum foliage often
seriously, especially when re-
peated. It is much the most
injurious when used on the
Peach, The leaves often
fall off. Frequently one ap-
plication of this weak mix-
ture would be followed by
entire defoliation.
I find that the colored water
turned carefully off after the
Ijondon purple has all set-
tled, will still kill the foliage.
Can it be that the analine is
the poisonous substance ? Or
is it the soluble arsenic? I
am now having analyses
made to determine this last
point. If an arsenic is to be
used on the Plum and Peach, we must use
Paris green, and for the Peach this must be
very dilute. 1 should not make it stronger
than one pound to 2.50 gallons of water."
What we desire is to see clear in this mat-
ter. We must not mislead our readers by
false advice, nor withoUl information that
is almost life and death to them, and all we
can do at present is to commend the utmost
caution in the use of the purple, until we
can be sure to have an article of the uniform
quality of the best samples we have used.
so without any trace of piinf^nt'y that it may bo
eaten like an .\pple. If we could eliminate from
the natun,' of Procojip'.'^ (Jiant the tendency to
assume a v>eculiiir crinkled .sliape, and by careful
selection of seed make it as uniformly smooth and
regular as this Long Sweet variety, it would give
Notes from the Popular Gardening
Grounds at La Salle-on-the-
Niagara.
The New Pepiicrs. This is the second year we
have grown Procopp's Giant, this Goliath
amongst Peppers, and it pleases us in so far it is
PRIZETAKER ONION.
a very reliable bearer of uniformly large fruit.
The latter is bright red, from 5 to 7 inches long,
but lacking in regularity .which indeed is its only
fault. The thick flesh has just enough pepperj'
pungency to make it desirable. Golden Upright,
and perhaps even Ruby King— varieties so per-
fect otherwise— are too sweet for many culinary
purposes. Our Long Sweet lied sort from New
Jersey, which we find unsurpassed as a bearer, is
FLOWERS OF THE WHITE JAPAN ANEMONE FROM NATURE. % Natural Size.
us a Pepper with which no fault covdd be found.
Celestial is again not only useful but also highly
ornamental.
Last year we selected seed from a number of
varieties which were growing in close proximity
to each other. Among the seedlings of the Celes-
tial this year we have a number of plants that
are evidently the result of a cross between it and
our Long Sweet Red variety. The plants have
the characteristics of the Celestial, and bear very
freely. Fruit from 2 to 2% inches long and IH
inches wide at top, bright red, smooth, handsome,
and with some pungency. All the rest of the va-
rieties came true to name.
A Prizrtaker. We always try every new Onion
that we hear of, and the older ones, too. This
season again we had a great number of varieties,
among them Silver King, Mammoth Pompeii,
Spanish King, and various other mammoth sorts.
Owing to the new condition of the soil, lateness
of the season, and lack of various requisites at
the proper time, our success was nothing to brag
about, although we have a fair crop. Among the
score or more of choicest sorts, however, none
can hold the candle to Prizetaker, a variety in-
troduced last year by Mr. Wm. H. Maule. Our
specimens last year were the finest Onions we
ever raised, equalling in size and beauty the im-
ported Spanish- Onions of our fruit stores and
groceries, and our experience with them this
year only strengthens our good opinion of it. A
few rows grown with good care, but otherwise
by no means under the most favorable circum-
stances, gave us bulbs the smallest of which
weighedoverone-half of a pound each, and which
yielded at the rate of over ]000 bushels per acre.
With special care we think we could even double
this yield, and propose to do this next year. Its
name is undoubtedly proper. No other variety
can take the prize at any exhibition in competi-
tion with a well-grown Prizetaker; at least this
is the conclusion of two seasons' trials with it. It
has proved itself to be the Onion par excelienc^.
Potatfi Tests. Flea beetles, the blight, and dry
weather have made short work of our this sea-
son's Potato test plot, and with our hope of being
able to settle some disputed points inPotato grow-
ing to our own satisfaction. As already stated, we
found the flea beetle the worst of these enemies,
and proof against anything we applied. Among
iither things, we tested the virtue of Buckwheat
plants in dower, which, it is claimed, will drive
tlea Ijcetles away. Perhaps we did this more to
show the absurdity of parading innocent plants
and leaves, like those of the Tomato, Elder, Buck-
wheat, etc., as certain insect repellers, than tor
any other purpose. They are
not, and the little jumping pests
stayed until the test plot was
well-nigh ruined.
The partial crop, which we
harvested, however, gave us
something like the usual results,
and in so far, so much eifort and
care in making these tests was
not spent quite in vain.
The following are some of the
results and conclusions: Extra
large single-eye pieces, selected
from extra large tubers, and
planted six inches apart in the
rows, yielded only 7.5 percent, of
the crop obtained from whole
medium-sized tubers planted one
foot apart in the rows, while
single-e.ve pieces cut of ordinar,v
size and from the ordinary run
of tubers, planted at various
•^P"^ ^ distances, (8 to 12 inches) gave
only a yield of frt)m -tS to 5.5 per
cent, of that from whole tubers.
I'his again shows that smgle-eye
pieces do not constitute "a
sufficiency " of seed, or in other
words, that a maximum yield
can not be grown from this
method of seeding. Whenever
we decide to adopt it, however,
we should make the pieces as
large as possible, and plant them
very close— not more than six
inches apart for our ordinary
soils. We planted them once i
inches apart with good results.
The rows in which whole
(medium-sized) tubers were
planted, as usual gave the largest
yield in the plat, "showing the
superiority of whole against cut
tubers.
Seed ends used for seed gave slightly better re-
sults than either stem ends or middle pieces.
No difference appeared in the yields from ha If
tubers, whether planted cut side up or down.
The application of bone dust increased the
yield, but not nearly so much as that of a high-
grade complete fertilizer containing a considera-
ble percentage of potash.
The same good results were noticed from the
applications of fertilizers, whether applied above
or below the seed pieces.
The crop was poorest in the rows where no fer-
tilizer was used, and a gradual increase plainly
visible in the same ratio as the fertilizer (H. S.
Miller & Co.'s Peach tree fertilizer, containing 3
to 3 percent. Ammonia, 8 to 10 phosphoric acid
and 8 to 10 potash) was increased.
The Fall Anemones. To Japan we are indebted
for two of the grandest flowering plants in ex-
istence, namely, the Japan Anemones. For weeks
these magnificent flowers have been a chief at-
traction of the borders at Woodbanks; we are
contemplating their use even more freely in the
future. The type of these flowers is Anemone
Japonica, ha\ing many handsome rose-colored
blooms two or more inches across. L^seful as
this species is, however, for the sake of variety, it
is nowhere equal in attractiveness to its offspring
(by sport), the White Japan Anemone [Japonica
rar. Honorine Jobert), of which we show an en-
graving, two-thirds size, drawn from nature.
This latter plant is the pride of the flower garden
during .September and October. The flowers are
of the purest white, with finely contrasted yellow
centers, and borne in extreme profusion, well
above a plant in itself possessed of beautiful
leaves. It possesses the highest value as a plant
for cut flowers, in this respect standing second
to no other plant in cultivation. Both of these
Anemones are fli'st rate plants for the flower
garden, for groups, borders or the wild garden.
An engraving reproduced from the London Gar-
den of the white variety as grown in the wild
garden is annexed. On our own grounds, we in-
tend the coming season to devote a good-sized
bed on the lawn exclusively to these Anemones
in the proportion of two-thirds of the space to
plants of the white and one- third to the rose-
colored variety. By having the plants in various
situations, some in a north border, some on a
28
POPULAR GARDENING.
NOVEMBKR,
warm one, the bloom may be greatly iirolonped.
The white form is never more eharmins? than
when it is grown in the shade of a wootl. Some
suppose that the white is the original form of the
plant. As to propagation every bit of the root
grows if divided. Some might think this plant
increases too freely if anything, but as it in no
wise partakes of a weedy nature this must be
LAYERING HARD-WOODED PLANTS.
considered in its favor, especially so long as it re-
mains as rare as at present in the average gar-
den. For the best results a rich soil is desirable
for these plants, but they are not difficult to suit
in this respect. We cannot but counsel every
reader of these notes to set out one or more
plants of the Japanese Anemones if they now do
not possess them.
ding with good foundations to solid ground.
The bins are formed hy slats, six inches
wide, one inch stuff. The slats have spaces
of six inches between so that thorough ven-
tilation is obtained,
The heating of the new house is by hot
water.pipes, the old one, hot air. No .shipping
or selling, even in the home market is
attempted from this stock until Janu-
ary and sometimes February, when the
ordinary crops are exhausted.
A selling price of $3.5 to $40 per ton
usually pays well, but .$80 was obtained
for part of the crop last year. The
shipment is in ordinary cars. These
are lined, and a stove used for heat,
with an attendant on the way. For this
reason it is preferred to ship by three
car lots, two to Boston, and one to
Providence, which is about the relative
proportion of each city. Not much
market in any but in New England
cities. Cost of freight $30 per car, but
it has been as high as $.50, capacity of
car about thirteen tons.
Now the secret of sticcess in sending
this crop a thousand miles, and yet
make a profit, is in knowing, how best
to preserve the crop, and which is the
exact time for marketing, with a willing-
ness to invest sufficient capital in buildings,
etc., and to wait for the returns. The crop
is all sold on commission, but the markets
have to be carefully studied.
ceptional plant, any more than we can have
the exceptional persons, about us daily.
It likes a rich soil, very light, and must
have plenty of water and sunshine, but the
soil must be well drained. It seeds freely
and young plants will continually be com-
ing up in the pot about the old plant.
These can be potted, and very soon they will
come into bloom. I have never tried it as a
bedder, but I think it might be made useful
for this purpose. Care must be taken to
keep it from getting dry at the roots, as it
will suffer severely if neglected in this re-
spect. If the .ioints begin to drop off you
may conclude that the plant has outlived its
usefulness and start new ones to take its
place. The mealy bug sometimes attacks
it. This pest should be removed with a soft
brush. If kept in too dry an atmosphere the
red spider will injure it. Therefore to
shower it well, all over, at least once a day.
Growing Winter Squash in Illinois
for New England Markets.
EDGAR SANDERS. CHICAGO ILLS.
A market gardener, near Chicago, has tor
years made a business of shipping Hubbard
Squash to the New England markets. He
has now two structitres holding 200 tons or
over; but he sometimes buys of other grow-
ers and ships hundreds of tons before he
touches his own crop. This firm,
(D. S. Dunning and Sons) have this year, of
their own growing 30 acres of Hubbard,
which is the only kind grown.
In consequence of careful selection, and
no other varieties grown near them, the
strain is very pure. The average crop is
about six ton to the acre, but occasionally
as much as eight, and as low as three tons
are grown per acre.
The soil is prairie eighteen inches in depth
thoroughly underdrained. Seed is never
sown earlier than the first of .June, eight
feet apart, six seed being dropped, but two
only left to grow finally; and it is a mooted
question whether better results would not
follow thinning to a single plant.
The land is plowed in the fall. Fifteen
two horse loads of compost applied during
winter, are thoroughly mi.xed with the
soil in spring by careful harrowing, A
shovel plow is then run eight feet apart, and
this crossed, at the same distance apart with
an ordinary Corn marker.
At each intersection one shovelful of
well rotted manure is thoroughly mixed
with the soil, and in this the seed is sown.
This induces a quick growth, and less
trouble with the bugs. Thorough cultiva-
tion is given during summer, as long as the
growing vines will permit.
The harvesting began this year Monday
September 1.5th, and the crop is at once
placed into winter qtiarters, with as little
handling and bruising, as possible.
The new hotise constructed this year is
24x40 frame, built frost or draught proof by
tar paper on outer and inner side between
the studding. Double doors and windows
complete the outer shell of the building.
The inner or bins for storing the fruit, are
entirely seperate, and so built that each
compartment is sustained by its own stud-
Zanzibar Balsam.
Winter bloomers of easy culture are al-
ways much sought after by flower lovers.
Mr. Eben E. Rexford, in one of our ex-
changes, calls attention to the Zanzibar
Balsam ( Impatiens Sultani), as a very de-
sirable subject for such purpose. It is a
low-growing plant, he says, having very
pretty leaves of a rich, dark, shining green.
Its .stems are very mitch like those of the
ordinary garden Balsam, having an almost
transparent look when seen against a
strong light. Its flowers are single, about
the size of a silver quarter, and are pro-
duced with wonderful profusion, all over
the plant. They are a bright magenta, with
something of a rosy tinge.
Being produced freely, the give the plant a
cheerful appear-
ance, and bright-
en up the win-
dow greatly. I
do not think I had
another plant,
last winter, that
was more ad
mired by all who
saw it. "What a
bright little thing
it is," everybody
said, and the\
were right. There
are many plants
more showy, and
many more beau
titul, but it had
such a cheerful
look about it that
it quite won
people in its
modest way. It
seemed to be do-
ing all it could to
make the window
gay, and it suc-
ceeded perfectly.
It makes methink
of some persons who do what they can to
make the world brighter. They may lack
the ability to do as much as some one else,
but what they can do they do well, and it is
just these persons whom we must depend
on for pleasure in this world of ours, to a
great extend. We can't always have the ex-
Layering Hard-Wooded Plants.
A novel method of propagating many of
the hard-wooded evergreens, (such as Cam-
melias, for instance) much practiced in Italy,
deserves to be more widely known, both for
its simplicity, and its certainty of giving
good results with many shrubs that fre-
quently refuse to grow readily, or to make
strong plants in a reasonable length of time.
The time for layering in this manner is in
spring, when the plants are making their
strongest growth. Select a well-grown,
thrifty side branch of about the thickness of
a pencil; remove most of the leaves; then
drive the point of a sharp penknife, edge
downward, clear through the center, cutting
downward, remaining in the center for near-
ly three inches, and finally cut to the outside
with a smooth slanting cut. A small thin
piece of wood is now to be inserted in the
slit, and the free end slightly but carefully
bent outward. The plant appears now as
shown in Fig. at the left.
A piece of tin is then bent in funnel shape
around the branch operated on, usually held
together by tying with wire, and fastened
to a stake, as appearing at the right. The
lower end of this funnel is filled with moist
Sphagnum, and the balance, up to within an
inch from the top, with a sifted mixture of
sand and leaf mold. To i)reveut rapid evap-
GROUP OF THE JAPAN ANEMONE. See page 37.
oration, a layer of moist Sphagnum is next
firmly packed on top.
The soil in the funnel has to be kept wat-
ered whenever necessary to keep continu
ously moist. In the beginning of autumn,
or soon after, a careful examination of the
soil will reveal the presence of roots, and
1889.
POPULAR GARDENING.
29
tlie branch can now be severed from the par-
ent plant by a smooth cut immediately be-
low the funnel. This latter is now carefully
opened and removed, and the young plant,
with ball of soil adhereing, potted off in a
reasonably large pot, and in good rich pot-
ting soil. It is then treated in some way as
other plants of its kind, and in spring fol-
lowing will be large enough for sale. The
PROCOPP'S GIANT PEPPER.
funnels are usually made from 4 to 7 inches
long, and 2 to 4 inches across the top.
The described mode is much employed by
Italian growers in the propagation of Cam-
ellias, Rhododendrons, Boxwoods, Olea fra-
grans, Magnolia fusca. Ericas, and many
other shrubs, also of very choice Roses.
COMMENTS BY READERS.
A department to tchick all are invited to send notes of
experienee and observation concerning topics that re-
centlu have been treated on in this journal. Many
such contributions monthly are welcome,
Bleachisg Evaporated Fruits. Why I
consider bleaching injurious Because it is a
fact, true even in face of the difflcult.v or im-
possibility of detecting in such fruit by chemical
analysis any positively poisonous substance.
Bleaching is done by the burning of sulphur or
roll brimstone, while the fruit is fresh in the
evaporator. The burning of sulphur produces
sulphurous acid. This in the presence of water
and air (as in an evaporator) is oxidized or
changed to sulphuric acid. Every solution of
this acid—" oil of vitrei "—acts readily upon zinc,
and since the zinc-coated or " galvanized iron "
trays are in general use, we have here the explan-
ation of the complaints of foreigner about our
poisonous evaporated Apples. The detection of
zinc in them by German chemists has led the
German government to decree the destruction of
all such Apples on hand, and to forbid any fur-
ther importation of them unless accompanied by
a chemist's certificate of analysis that they were
free from injurious substances. The presence of
zinc has also lieen attributed to the action of the
acid in sour Apples upon the zinc of the fruit
trays. Fruit bleaching just now is a fashionable
craze in the United .States. The practical exclu-
sion of American fruit from foreign markets
will cause the subject to be investigated. Bleach-
ing destroys the fruit flavor and makes all look
alike, so that good and poor fruit can no longer
be distinguished. And as the practice is some
trouble and expense, does not add to but detracts
from the food value of any and all fruit, it is
better to retrace the wrong step, to avoid even
the appearance of evil by at once returning to
the use of honest, healthful, unbleached fruit.—
J. W. Smith, Floyd C'ri., Iowa.
The Tuijp Tree. Yes it is a noble tree, our
Liriodendron f«(ipf/ero, and should be more gen-
erally and especially more extensively planted.
What a fine and valuable thing a solid forest of
these would be! Mr. C. L. Allen in one of the En-
glish papers, remarks that there are two distinct
varieties of it, which are more marked than with
any other species of other genera. One kind has
soft, yellow, fine-grained wood, tit tor almost
any work, and is much used tor piano legs, par-
ticularly car\-ed ones, as no other wood takes a
stain so well, no matter what wood is to be imi-
tated. It is quite amusing to hear dealers cal .
whitc-w(Kid jjiano legs "solid ntsewood," which
they do almost invariably. The wood is also used
for nearly all ijurpo.ses, except for shingles, and
is more \'aluable than any of our soft woods.
Not long since a tree was cut in the Maumee
Valley which made a stick (iO feet long. 54 Inches
by 4« inches square, and entirely free from knots.
The other variety is commonly called White
Poplar; the wood is soft, tough and stringy, ex-
ceedingly liable to warp or twist, and is onlj-
used in the most common cabinet work. The
variation in the species is said to be brought
about by the soil, which, if dry, gravelly and
elevated, produces the white wood, while it rich,
deep and rather moist, the yellow timber. Our
observation does not confirm this opinion, hav-
ing seen the two varieties growing within a few
feet of each other under the same conditions in
all respects. As a roadside tree either variety is
desirable; the foliage is pleasing in summer and
exceedingly rich in autumn, while in color it is
next to our Maples. The Southern Lumberman
tells of a tree near Bethlehem, in Montgomery
County, Tennessee, which is six feetand one inch
in diameter, five feet from the ground, and ap-
parently of the same size up to the first limb,
which is 75 feet from the ground. This tree is
probably sound, and estimated to contain more
than 15,000 feet of lumber.— G. E., City.
SpRATuiG With London Purple. Mr. E. P.
Cummlngs complains that he has been greatly
injured by the use of London purple. The fault
has not been with the poison, as the strength he
mentions would not injure Apples in the least,
and we do not think it would hurt even the most
tender Plums. If he will write to us we think
we might convince him where the fault lies.
London Purple has been tried now by so many
people for this purpose, and we have quantities
of testimonials from growers who have had good
results from its use even when applied stronger
than mentioned by complainant. Sometimes
people who have only a few trees, dose them with
material enough for a large orchard. This we
have known to result injuriously, but the fault
was certainly with the user. The proportions
which we recommend as hartng given the best
results, are one pound of London purple to 300
gallons of water for the Apple tree, and 250 gal-
lons for the Plum, and this if put on in spray
form and in quantity suflBcient for effective
work, is a perfectly safe application. Let us call
your attention to following statement made by
Prof. J. A. Lmtner: " The best insecticide for use
against fruit insects is undoubtedly Paris green
or London purple. Of these two I do not hesitate
to recommend London purple in preference. It
is quite as effective, is less liable to burn the
foliage, there is less danger from accidental
poisoning from it, it is less expensive, and is
held more easilj" in mixture with water." Or
to that of Prof. G. S. Goff: " It is probable that
London purple will supercede Paris green as an
insecticide when its advantages become generally
understood." Let us further say that a series of
experiments in spraying Plum and Cherry tree
have been made at the Ohio Experiment Station
this season, and the station entomologist thought
himself justified by the results to publish the
following as final conclusions: " This series of
experiments carried on through two seasons
upon two varieties of Cherry trees and four
varieties of Plum trees, during which a grand
total of 65,500 Cherries have been individually
examined, seems to me to confirm the provision-
al conclusions announced one year ago, which
may now be put in the following form: (1) That
about three-fourths of the Cherries liable to in-
jury by the Plum CurcuUo can be saved ;by two
or three appUcations of London purple in a water
spray in the proportion of one ounce to ten gal-
lons of water. (3) That a sufficiently large pro-
portion of the Plum crop can be saved by the
same treatment to linsure a good yield when a
fair amount of the fruit is set. (3) That if an in-
terval of a month or more occurs between the
last application and the ripening of the fruit,
no danger to health need be apprehended from
its use. (4) That spraying with the arsenites is
cheaper and more practical than any other
method of preventing injuries of this insect. —
Hemingway's London Purple Co., New York.
Early Tomatoes for Profit. Of late there
has been little said in your columns regarding
growing early Tomatoes for market. I hope
some of those well-posted in their early culture
will give us their views and experience, before
the season comes around again for sowing seed.
I take the ground that early Tomatoes stand next
to Strawljerries in point of profit. After people
have been kept on berries for several months
they crave something for a change, and the To-
mato seems to meet the demand. We see hun-
dreds of bushels coming north and filling our
markets long before the home-grown are ripe,
and selling at big prices. How can we get our
early Tomatoes ripe in quantities a week or ten
days earlier, and catch some of the# big prices?
On our market this season southern Tomatoes
brought 84.00 per bushel wholesale, when we
were having only a few ripe ones. As to varie-
ties, they equal the Strawberry in number, but
the earliest are more or less rough and inferior.
The man that will produce a new Tomato as
early as the Imi>roved Alpha or Atlantic, and as
smooth and large as Acme or Perfection, will do
more towards the advancement of horticulture
than the man that produces a new Strawberry
that surpasses those now upon the market. It is
true we can take a few plants of the smooth var-
ieties and by extra care and trouble get them
very early, but to have the plants so as to sell
them by the acre, and have them as early, is
another thing. One writer in your columns says
he gained three weeks in one seasen (?) by saving
the first ripe for seed. I have done that on the
same Tomato for six years, but I have not gained
18 weeks nor 18 days, even in that time, but it
may help some. The Dwarf Champion comes as
near the ideal Tomato as any; but it ripens its
crop too slow for early market, at least with me.
We can do some to advance them by early sow-
ing, repeated transplanting, and placing them in
the open ground direct from the pot or can, so
as not to check their growth; but we want an
earUer, larger, smooth Tomato. Who will pro-
duce ity Can it be done? There are many new
varieties praised by the originators sky-high, but
it is ad\nsable to go slow on them. I tried some
this season to see for myself, and one especially
proved the poorest thing of a Tomato I ever
grew.— ^. yr. A'., Ohio.
Henderson's Bush Lima Bean. In October
notes from the Popular Gardening Grounds
you speak of Bush Lima Bean, but not much in
its praise. Now here in Arizona we consider it
the best novelty ever introduced, and that for
the following reasons: 1. It has the identical
flavor of the true Lima Pole Bean, and is much
easer grown, being in bush form. 2. With us it
is more productive than any other member of
the Bean family, be it Pole or Bush. 3. Not-
withstanding your doubts on the subject, it is
hardier than any other Bean. I planted it early
in the season, when the average temperature of
the soil was not above .55°, and it germinated well;
at the same time Valentine and Golden Wax
came up very irregularly, and Lima Pole Beans
rotted in the ground. 4. The Bush Lima bore
as early as any of my bush Beans, and is bearing
and blossoming yet. 5. All other varieties of
Beans here were badly affected by rust (Golden
Wax only produced one picking when plants
died). Bush Lima showed no sign of it. 6.
Although I am not sure of it, still from the looks
of the plants now, I believe the Bush Lima wUl
stand a slight frost. Altogether, the Bush Lima
is the Bean for Arizona. I should also like to say
something about an article in your journal
headed " Possibilities and Future of Irrigation."
The author of it says that a water supply from
windmill power mignt do for small gardens, but
that Mr. H. Stuart was too sanguine in believing
that larger areas could be irrigated in that man-
ner. Now, as there are 6,273,i>40 square inches in
an acre of land, and as one inch of water, flowing
four miles per hour, will equal 6 ,082,.500 inches
in 24 hours, it is thoroughly practicable to flood
one acre of land with on inch of water in 24 hours,
provided the land is not a mere sand heap and
has been properly prepared for irrigation . At
that rate a windmill would only provide water
once per week for seven weeks, but where the
water is only to be used at critical periods, suffic-
ient might be stored beforehand to water even
a large area of grain. But there are certain ad-
vantages which windmills have over streams for
irrigation. I have a farm here of 160 acres, all
of which is irrigated by a canal five miles long,
bringing an abundance of water from the Gila
river. But every irrigation brings with the water
also an abiuidance of weed seeds, so that I have
been compelled to erect a windmUl for my mar-
ket gardens (four acres), as the labor to keep the
weeds down would be ruinous in watering with
river water; indeed, heretofore it has been hardly
possible for an active man to keep down the
weeds on H acre of close crops; and that too with
the help of the best wheel hoes.— Benry Rupky,
Graham Co., A. T.
30
POPULAR GARDENING.
November,
Cold Storage Houses. Cheap and
Convenient.
The cold storage house or room is now
considered to be an indispensable requisite
on every place deserving the name of "fruit
farm." Its possession gives to the owner
the advantage of a long marketing season.
Without it, the mature fruits must be dis-
posed of at once, whether the market is will-
ing or not, scantily supplied or overstocked
already. With it the grower can hold his
produce until such time as he deems most
propitious or convenient.
At the north we can adopt a very simple
plan of cold storage, and one which does not
Involve the necessity of using ice. All we
need is the basement of some bam or other
building properly insulated from communi-
cation with the outside by means of dead
air spaces, or double walls filled in with
straw or sawdust, and a similar protection
above. Cold air is admitted at night, or
through a subterranean air-passage, and the
building kept closed when the outside tem-
perature is too high.
For ice storage, the California Fruit Grow-
er describes the following, as an inexpen-
sive house. The room itself may be any size
most convenient. Erect a frame lined on the
inside with heavy paper and varnished with
shellac, then ceiled and floored with matched
stuff, % or % inch thick. Varnish the en-
tire inner surface. Before putting down tlie
paper lining and floor, fill in between the
framing dry sawdust and pulverized char-
coal mixed. Board up the outside with
tightly-matched boards, filling in as you
board up with the sawdust and charcoal, as
well as the top. The door for entrance to
the room must be made to shut against
broad jams and angular closures like an iron
safe, so that it cannot stick by swelling. It
should be made by framing and packing
with sawdust and charcoal, in the same
manner as the room which should be be-
tween the walls from \2 to l.i inches.
In the ceiling of the cold room, frame an
opening large enough to let in a galvanized
sheet iron box of sufficient size to hold as
much ice as you may wish to store, or about
one-tenth of the capacity of the whole room.
The ice chamber should be fitted into the
opening tight, with a flange all around top.
It may be No. 18 or 20 galvanized sheet iron.
To the bottom attach a coil of galanized iron
or lead pipe, running two or three times
around the room, hanging on hooks or brack-
ets, just the level of the ice box. Pass the
end of the coil throvigh to the outside of the
room and terminate in an inverted siphon,
so as to retain the water within the coil up
to a level just below the bottom of the ice
box. This is for the purpose of economiz-
ing the cold from the waste water by circu-
lating it around the room. From the cross
beams of the ceiling, as bearing for the
weight of the ice, place two or three straps
of square iron, of a size sufficient for carry-
ing the weight of the ice you intend to put
in. Let them hang upon the inside of the
galvanized iron box to within an inch of the
bottom. Upon these straps lay a hardwood
grating. Make a galvanized iron cover to
fit tightly upon the ice chamber, and a wood-
en one to close over the iron one.
To prevent the water that may be con-
densed upon the outside of tlie ice chamber
from dripping down upon the goods, make
the bottom of the ice chamber bulge a little
downward, so that the condensed drops will
run to the center, or one side, where a small
pan may be hung with a small pipe leading
to the outside of the cold room, and a siphon
attached to prevent ingress of air. The ice
chamber may now be charged to its full ca-
pacity with ice, and if a very cold room is
required, sprinkle a layer of salt between
each layer. This, however, is seldom done.
The principle upon which this cold room
is constructed is that there shall be no com-
munication between the ice with its moist
vapor and the air of the cold room. Any
moisture made by the cooling of the air, and
which is precipitated upon the iron surface
of the ice chamber, is at once conveyed out
of the room by the drip pan and its pipe.
Hence there is no need of any special venti-
lation, more than what will naturally occur
by the use of the door and the small leakage
through its closing crevices.
The ice chamber requires no ventilation,
hence economizing the ice to the best advan-
tage, while the water from the melting ice
is turned to the best account by circulating
around the room in tlie waste pipe.
The best temperature for fruit is about 'M
degrees or any temperature Ijelo w 40 degrees
and above freezing, where this kind of stock
is often changing by sale. It stock is to lie
for a considerable time, 34 degrees should
be obtained If possible.
Paclcing and Marketing Apples.
The unusual scarcity of the Apple crop
this fall will make it all the more advisable
to exercise the utmost care in preparing tliem
for market. In the first place we can afford
to bestow more than the usual amount of
labor on this preparation of the fruit on ac-
count of its higher price; but at the same
time we cannot afford to lose any part of the
crop by careless packing, since we have no
overplus. Furthermore, we have it in our
hand to still increase the returns for our
fruit by care in putting up, even if we con-
cede that at a time of scarcity neither buyer
nor consumer are apt to be as discriminating
and exacting as in a time of abundant sup-
ply. For immediate effect as well as for the
benefits derived in the future we should put
up good fruit in best possible shape.
A correspondent of the Country Gentle-
man, who has had much practical experi-
ence in the wholesale and retail fruit busi-
ness, offers the following sensible sugges-
tions which we hope every fruit grower will
put in practice. In the first place, he writes,
good barrels of uniform size should be used.
The standard flour barrel size is the best.
The fruit should be carefully picked, thor-
oughly assorted, and all small and imper-
fect specimens rejected and used for cider.
The fruit should be uniform through the
barrel clear to the bottom.
Care must be taken in pressing the Ap-
ples, and also to see they do not shake in the
barrel; this fault will condemn the best of
fruit. Carefully adjust the head and nail the
hoops. With a neat stencil mark the name
on the faced head, and the packer's or ship-
per's name, but never the town, as whole-
sale dealers do not want that. Keep the bar-
rels as clean and neat as possible. Some
people think that anything will do for an
Apple barrel, but let me say that a nice bar-
rel, in good condition when it arrives at its
destination, helps to sell the fruit. Some
shippers think that writing the name with
pencil is just as good as a nice stencil, but
they are mistaken. When a dealer goes to
inspect a carload of Apples and finds poor
barrels, some heads out, hoops off, and the
name scratched on with pencil or chalk, he
does not feel inclined to buy except at a low
figure. On the other hand, if on opening the
car he finds nice clean packages, uniform in
size, with nameof fruit nicely stenciled, and
shipper's name on the same, he says he will
at once become a purchaser. Then when he
comes to open up the lot and finds it of uni-
form size, such as he would be willing to
turn out on the floor for his customers' in-
spection, he is delighted, and you will soon
find him writing to his shipper, saying,
"This fruit is all right; how many cars can
you furnish me that will come up to this
standard:' I will take one or two hundred
cars if you can guarantee them to be as good
as this one." If the fruit had been such as
is usually shipped, he would have written
that the quality was so poor that he had to
take a very low price, and did not care for
further shipments.
If fruit growers and shippers would go to
the other end of the route, stay through one
season, hear the language uttered over poor-
ly-packed Apples, and see the frauds prac-
ticed, they would see why prices seem low;
and yet they are always high enough for the
quality of the goods. In doing a large ship-
ping business the most careful person will
sometimes get imposed upon. A good way to
avoid this is to furnish each packer with a
small bill on which is printed, " This barrel
was packed by John Smith." Then if fraud
is discovered it can be traced to the one
guilty of it. There are packers who ship to
me, and as soon as I get their list I can say
to a customer, " Here is a car I can guaran-
tee without inspecting it." I sell it, ship in-
to the country, make a draft against it,
which is paid and no fault found. Soon
there comes an order from same customer:
" Send me another car; I want same man's
packing as the last." This is much better
than to have your draft returned with no-
tice that the fruit is so poor they cannot use
it, and it is subject to your order.
Give us good, fair-sized Apples, uniform
through the barrel, in good barrels tightly
pressed, neatly and correctly stenciled, and
it will be found that far better prices will be
realized.
Report on Pears.
E. P. rOWELL, ONEIDA CO., N. Y.
Each year adds its own special facts to
fruit culture; and one may think he fully
understands some variety, when, lo, a new
phase of weather, a unique season, will quite
upset his opinions. I began with a preju-
dice against the Onondaga Pear twenty
years ago; but now I consider it a very val-
uable sort always. So the Clapp's Favorite
won high esteem for a time; but now I
should reject it from a plantation of twenty
varieties. The Madeleine for a time blighted
so badly that I gave it up wholly, but now
will again plant it.
The year 1889 has been remarkable for un-
seasonable weather from first to last. The
weather from October 1st, 1888, has run
to excesses, and just when we should nat-
urally expect heat we have had cold, and
for cold we have had heat. New York State
has also been continuously wet from the
flr.st of May, generally wet and cold. The
result has been pecviliar with all sorts of
crops. The Grapes are mildewed and rotted
after a very defective fertilization. The
Quinces after a superb bloom failed to set
fruit well. The Apples failed to fertilize
and set after a full blossom. But the Pears
have given us a very full crop, only in many
sorts tliere is a deal of rustiness. The skin
of Flemish Beauty in June was soft with
fungus, and this hardened into a black
cuticle that makes the Pear unsalable.
Beginning with the earlier sorts, Blood-
good has done very prettily and ripened
well; but lacked its usual quality. This is
as good a Pear as one can select for opening
the season.
Bartletthas borne in great abundance but
the fruit has inclined to be knotted. This
Pear will hold its own for many years yet.
Clapp's Favorite must be picked before
Bartlett, and can be kept well along with
the same if picked very early. But if nearly
yellowed when gathered it melts away and
is gone in a mass of decay. It is showy, and
in some markets sells well, but is going out
of fashion and will soon be dropped by judic-
ious orchardists.
Tyson should have been mentioned just
before Bartlett and is Incomparably the best
i
1889.
POPULAR GARDENING.
31
of early Pears. It does not bear early unless
your trees are headed low: but It is a capi-
tal yielder in due time, and delicious
Rosticzer might also be mentioned as pre-
ceding Bartlett; but while of good quality
it is not as good as it has been ranked, and
the tree sprawls abominably. No fruit trees
are so individualized as Pears.
Sheldon is the grandest of Pears and not
ttK) many of them can be planted. But pick
them when very solid and place in a cool
cellar. U yon will, they will not decay for
six weeks. If nearly ripened on the tree
they will not keep a week. Xo Pear is more
delicious than a Sheldon. Large, smooth
and a marvelous bearer: the only trouble is
that the tree is brittle and soon wears and
bears itself out.
I hardly know how to report on Do\vn-
ing's favorite, the Belle Lucrative. It is a
dull green Pear, and well ripened it is de-
licious. It is too juicy for canning, and only
good for dessert. This year it has inclined
to form hard knots under the skin, another
result of fungus growth.
Kirtland is a fine Pear but this year has
cracked.
Duchess is doing admirably well and takes
to a wet season. If the drought does not
compel it to prematurely ripen it will be
of fine size, as it is also smooth and bright.
Seckel I no longer plant tor market. It
must once more bring seven dollars a barrel
to make It pay as a market Pear. Its leaves
drop this year almost as badly as Currant's.
Louise Bonne is also defoliating but I have
picked a fine crop. For a dwarf it is unsur-
passed. Such crops are amazing. When
possible let these Pears very nearly ripen
on the trees, not like most Pears, off.
Kieffer I have not fruited and have only a
single tree, being unwilling to grow so poor
fruit. But the tree is very healthy.
I add this year one more point for Buffum.
It is a very good Pear if picked early: and
is as handsome as a Peach. The tree is
unique in growth; and of great value for
the upright form in a lawn. I grow it
wholly as a lawn tree. The color of the
foliage in Autumn is gorgeous beyond all
trees, unless it be Water Maples.
Anjou is first of all Pears all in all. It is
superb in quality, always smooth, large and
perfect. It bears enormously and annually.
This year it is unaffected in foliage or fruit
by mildew or parasite of any sort. The
form of the tree is robu.st, evenly spreading,
and the foliage very bright. The fruit
picked the last of September keeps till
Christmas.
Diel has not cracked at all this year as it
sometimes will. Indeed the general diffi-
culty with Pears this year is not cracking,
but growing rusty, and knotty in some cases.
Clairgeau I have always stood by as a
gloriously beautiful fruit. It is doing finely
this year. If picked the last of September
It is in eating for Thanksgiving, when we
want handsome fruit. But when once It is
fit for table it must at once be used or the
gold and scarlet skin turns black.
It is a Pear year, taking the land through
and the crop brings only about one
dollar a bushel on the average. I have
many varieties that I do not report on:
partly because we are growing too many
Pears. Still is there any fruit that varies
more in flavor:' No two Pears are alike,
which is more than you can say of Plums,
Peaches and Apples. It is a grand fruit to
experiment with. But do not grow It unless
you have a cool, dry fruit room or cellar to
store it when picked. Placed in a warm
room it decays at once. There Is not one of
the Pears that brings us more profit than
Flemish Beauty when it gives fair fruit, but
that is not oftener than once in three years.
The trees should stand out in an open place
exposed well to the sun. As a rule keep
Pear trees well mulched, and have them
forked about Instead of ploughed.
The Strawberry — Cultivated better
than Wild
tin.\NVILI.E COWING, DELAWARE CO., I.ND.
I cannot agree with those who claim that
wild Strawberries are better in flavor than
cultivated varieties. My experience with
both kinds has been long and extensive, and
I am sure most wild Strawberries are of in-
ferior flavor, but they often ripen thorough-
ly before they are found and devoured by
persons whose appetites are too fierce to be
very discriminating. Hunger is an excel-
lent sauce. Cultivated varieties, if perfectly
ripe, could not be safely marketed but must
be picked when fairly colored but still firm.
During the last .32 years I have found
many wild Strawberries on my farm, but
none of as delicious flavor as Sharpless, Dun-
can or any other first-class variety. Thou-
sands of seedling Strawberries are annually
growTi in this country by zealous horticul-
turists in the hope of producing something
better than any of our well-known sorts.
Delicious flavor is always desirable in a new
candidate for public favor, but a partial lack
of it may be overlooked in consideration of
a marked advance in other good qualities.
The Strawberry is, I believe, the most
healthful of all fruits. I have seen hundreds
of children in Strawberry fields where they
Were allowed to eat all the fruit they de-
sired, but I never knew one to be made sick
by an overdose of well-ripened berries. To
the enthusiastic horticulturist there is an in-
describable charm attending the cultivation
of the Strawberry. It is the first fruit to
ripen and is succeeded by no other equal to
it in flavor. In beauty and fragrance it Is
hardly surpassed by the choicest flowers.
Wise Selection of Plants and Soil in
Strawberry Culture.
At the meeting of the American Pomolog-
ical Society in Boston, two years ago, Mr. J.
M. Smith, of Wisconsin, defended the Wil-
son Strawberry against the charge of being
"run out." Recently Mr. E. S. Goff, of the
Wisconsin Agricultural Experiment Sta-
tion, has visited Mr. Smith's grounds, and
he reports to Garden and Forest that this
old variety there continues to yield immense
crops, and has not as yet been surpassed in
productiveness by any of the more recent
Introductions.
Mr. Smith ascribes his success with the
Wilson chiefly to his method of propagating
the plants. About ten years ago he noticed
the fact that a bed set with plants that had
grown from a setting made the preceding
spring, and which had, consequently, never
yielded a crop of fruit, made a better growth
and bore more Strawberries than another
bed of plants formed on a setting that had
already yielded a crop. Since that time Mr.
.Smith ha.s been careful, in setting new beds,
to use only plants propagated from those
that have never borne a crop, and as the re-
sult his Wilsons have fully maintained their
original vigor and productiveness. In fav-
orable season they still yield as high as 400
bushels per acre. The rust, which has been
the ruin of this variety iu most localities,
does not appear in his newly-planted beds.
After a bed has yielded a crop of fruit, how-
ever, the plants are severely attacked by the
rust: but as Mr. Smith does not usually take
more than one crop from a setting, the rust
has no opportunity to work harm.
Mr. Smith generally, after plowing up a
bed of Strawberries, devotes the ground to
other crops for a year or more before re-set-
ting it again with Strawberries. In the
spring, however, he found it convenient to
re-plant a portion of some beds that had pro-
duced Strawberries the preceding year. Al-
though this ground had been kept in a high
state of fertility, the result was most marked.
The stand of plants on the ground that had
produced a crop the year before was notice-
ably thinner and less vigorous, and the yield
was smaller by half.
In one part of the ground, that wa.s occu-
pied the second time in succession, another
experiment was tried. Mr. Smith departed
from his custom here in another particular,
and used young plants that had been prop-
agated from a bed which had already borne
a crop. He expected little from this portion
of his field, but he received literally nothing,
for the plants, which suffered a double abuse
— first, in having been raised from weakened
stock, and again, in having been planted in
old Strawberry-ground, nnrefreshed by rest
and rotation— were so far enfeebled that
they were abondoned as worthless and
plowed under.
Strawberry Culture in England.
Suggestions for American
Growers.
The horticultural practices of our breth-
ren across the Atlantic often appear to the
eye of American cultivators as clumsy as
they are thorough. But while in counting
cost of crop the item of "labor" is consid-
ered secondary to that of "land" (a condi-
tion reversed in America), it Is a question
whether some of these laborious thorough
methods give always the great effects that
the European gardener expects of them, or
at least whether the same results cannot be
obtained in a manner involving less hand
labor. On this side of the big water we
might often adopt some of the old country
thoroughness with profit, provided we can
succeed in getting the feature of clumsiness
separated from it.
Trenching the ground two or three feet,
and loading it with manure clear down to
that depth, is one of these old clumsy but
thorough methods, yet in vogue for many
crops, especially for Asparagus, Horse Rad-
ish and Strawberries. It has been practiced
for Asparagus for some time even here, but
now we have found that good results are
not dependent on the amount of hand labor,
nor on the excessive use of manure, wasted
in this operation. We are satisfied in any
event with the good offices of a common
plow, with a good plowman at the handles,
of a subsoil plow following in the furrow
behind, and of the good manure that we can
incorporate with the surface soil by plowing
and harrowing m.
British gardeners now begin to waver in
their belief that the old trenching system Is
indispensable to best success with Strawber-
ries, and as a consequence, the culture of
this fruit Is rapidly increasing. With cheap-
ened production comes Increased cultiva-
tion, larger supply, and lower prices. It is
not over twenty years ago that the planting
of a few patches, one-half or one acre In ex-
tent, was at length described and illustrated
in a leading literary magazine in Germany
as something wonderful and novel. Now
patches many times that size are a common
occurence. On the British Islands culture
on a large, scale is successfully practiced
from the south of England to the extreme
north of .Scotland. The Journal of Horti-
culture, gives a lenghty description of
modern Strawberry culture in England.
In some of the Kentish Strawberry fields,
says our contemporary, the soil appears half
composed of gravel or shingle. The subsoil
is well broken, provision is being thus made
for the escape of water when it might prove
injurious, and for its presence in the form of
vapor rising upwards to the roots when it is
most needed by the plants and crops during
the season of growth. Strawberries In strong
and even rich soil not deeply worked, or on
dry subsoils, suffer from drought far more
seriously than they do in sandy or gravelly
32
POPULAR GARDENING.
November,
soils where the water table is not far below
the surface and the subsoil open so that the
sun can and does draw up supplies of moist-
lu-e for the plants. In what was considered
waste land in Hampshire, too poor to grow
agricultural crops, Strawberries are pro-
duced in abundance, twenty tons a day often
being sent from one parish alone. Much of
the soil ill which Strawberries are grown is
reclaimed waste, the best containing pebbles
in abundance.
Poorness as applied to the soil is a relative
term, and land that is deficient in the essen-
tials for agricultural crops — hence "poor"
for them — may contain the ingredients that
Strawberries need. What are they? For
answer we must look to the constituents ot '
the plants and fruit. First they contain
about 90 per cent, of water; of mineral sub-
stances soda predominates over potash, ,
though that is considerable, as is phosphor-
us, a good amount of lime, and an unusual
amount of silica and iron. Most of these in-
gredients are found in old sea beds, the re-
sult largely of marine deposits over, it may
be, millions of years in remote ages. And
as sand banks and gravel beds, no matter
what their altitude now, have been formed
by the washings and constitute the deposit
of primordial seas, we may expect them to
contain what Strawberries need, however
poor the drift may seem.
Those gardens in which a large bulk of
manure is required for Strawberries have
usually a dry subsoil, and the added matter
contributes to the retention of moisture, and
at the same time imparts Ingredients which
the soil lacks and which Strawberries need.
In heavy and more or less damp soils in
which Strawberries do not grow and bear
satisfactorily, a liberal addition of,red gravel
or sand, with supplementary dressings of
kainit and superphosphate of lime, and in
dry seasons a sprinkling of salt, would, in
all probability, effect an improvement and
have a more beneficial effect than would re-
sult from gorging the land with ordinary
stable or tarmyard manure that may or may
not contain what the crop requires.
roots in earth in a shallow box, place them
in a cellar and growth will be continued,
and the blanching process finished.
CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
Fifth Paper.
DR. J. STAYMAN, LEAVENWORTH CO., KANSAS.
When the vines have filled the trellis be-
low, and require more room like the Cyn-
thiana and Norton that do not rot, two
canes should be trained to the top wire from
the center spurs of each vine to form arms
to be renewed each year the same as those
on the lower wire. This will give double
the space for each vine which can be ex-
?^?Si^FS^
Cultivating Celery.
WM. H. YEOMANS, TALLAND CO., CONN.
Some garden crops are not grown by the
average farmer merely because he has the
impression that they required some special
skill or more aitentii^n than could be given
iu view of the general demands of the farm.
Among such is Celery; and while there are
some people who do not care for it, and so
neglect its cultivation, there are many more
who fearfailure, or at the least the labor and
time required in its cultivation, which as
they suppose makes it cost more than it is
worth. This last idea is erroneous. Very
satisfactory results may be secured even
with little if any extra labor. If the seed is
sown or planted in the spring, and the
plants are kept clean and watered if neces-
sary, the latter will attain size enough for
transplanting by the middle or last of July
without the frequent transplautings prac-
ticed by some for the purpose of developing
and strengthening root growth. Such a
course may be profitable when one has time
to spend in that way, because ot a more vig-
orous growth. If the young plants are kept
growing and attain a height ot three or four
inches by the first of August, and are then
transplanted to a trench iu which there is a
very liberal supply of rich, decomposed
manure, and kept watered until they get a
good start, if they do not produce good leaf
stalks we shall be very much inclined to
think there was some fault in some opera-
tion. During growth of course the earth
should be hauled up against the leaf stalks
so as to protect them and to secure a partial
blanching. If there is danger of severe
freezing, take the plants up and pack the
Fig. 1. Fine in full hearing occupjfing upper «'tre,
with renewing canes over the top. Parts of the
adjoining vines on t/i« lower wire.
tended each year until they fill the whole
space as may be seen in Fig. 2 which repre-
sents a strong vine in full bearing pruned
and tied to the upper and lower wires.
The shoots from the lower spurs should
be left to bear fruit and their leaders should
be pinched accordingly and kept renewed
each year for that purpose. But from the
upper spurs there should be two canes
trained, one from each to form new arms to
renew those bearing on the upper wire.
They should be stopped once by pinching
off to make them throw out laterals; then
one trained from each cane and along on
the top of the wire as may be seen in Fig. 1.
a.a. and tied fast to the wire. These canes
will not be in the way nor affect the bear-
ing shoots as they occupy the vacant space
between bearing canes.
This stopping or pinching off the shoots
to make them throw out laterals may not
be fully understood, and be neglected as
considered unnecessary work, but experi-
ence has proven that when canes have ex-
tra vigor by pinching them off, the laterals
are shorter jointed and produce better bear-
ing wood. The same may be seen in graft-
ing the Grape. The growth is often so ram-
pant that there are no fruiting buds, but by
pinching as stated they develop good bear-
ing buds on the laterals and get good fruit
the first season.
This is a very important principle which
shonld be fully understood, for a good vine-
yardist will never select the strongest grown
canes for bearing, but those of medium size
with well-developed buds; even small later-
als are better than large canes.
The shoots with fruit on project out on
either side of the wire and hang
gently down in festoons as they
do in nature without any tying
except the primary cane which
is well tied to the wire. This
position of the bearing shoots
gives a gentle check to the sap
as the shoots lengthen, and the
bunches enlarge and become
gradually heavier, bending the
extremities of the shoots towards
the ground, concentrating the
sap and vital force where it would not all be
cut away in pruning.
Fig. '2 represents the same vine after
having been pruned and tied to the trellis
ready for bearing the next season. All sub-
sequent training and pruning will be just
like this, but is entirely too much beariug
wood for Concord and all that class of vines
unless we wish to invite the Grape to rot.
Of this I mil speak in my next.
I would state here that the surface roots
should be cut off each year and never be
allowed to grow as they rob the foot roots
of their vigor and ruin the vines.
To do this effectually, the ground should
be dug out a foot deep around the vines and
the surface roots cut off close to the stocks,
and this repeated as often as found neces-
sary to keep them clean. This will have to
be often repeated on the Concord class as
they all have a tendency to root shallow.
But the Aestivalis class root deeply and do
not often require it.
The Concord planted on rich ground ac-
cording to the general method for the Grapes
will rot, and the matter can not be remedi-
4 ed by planting them deep unless the richest
soil is put in the bottom, for otherwise the
roots will turn up to the surface to get nu-
^ toiment and moisture, and be affected with
every change of the weather. The Labrusca
class of Grapes cannot be grown here suc-
cessfully on rich ground except by trench-
ing two feet deep and tiu'ning the rich
ground below, neither can any Grape with
European blood except by special treat-
ment.
I have now given a full system of Grape
culture founded upon experience which can
be modified to suit all varieties of Grapes
and conditions of climate.
Niagara County Fruit Notes.
In these days when we hear so much
grumbling and complaint among fruit
growers about low prices, and the unprofi-
table outcome of the whole business, it is
refreshing and pleasing to meet with a com-
munity of fruit growers who are in the hap-
piest frame of mind imaginable, and who
frankly and truthfully say that they are
making money. Such community or com-
munities of lucky fruit growers we found in
the northern part of the county, near Lake
Ontario, and also in Canada on the opposite
side of the Niagara.
The best lessons are object lessons — those
which are conveyed to our mind and memo-
ry through the eyes. In travelling through
this section we thought such object lessons
were scattered over the region pretty thick,
and they were not lost on us. We only
wished that our family of readers could
have been with us to see for themselves, and
be impressed with some of the great facts in
fruit growing which we can only bring to
their attention in words.
Location. One of the great industries of
this whole section is Peach growing, and
yet it is not many years since the first Peach
orchard was set out here. The eminent
success with this fruit is in the first place
due to the advantages of the location. The
nearness of the great bodies of water tem-
pers the climate, makes the spring later and
prolongs the fall. For this reason Peaches
Pig.
Same Vine as pruned and tied to trellis ready for
bearing the next season.
bear annually, and a total failure is almost
unknown, which is aLso the case with nearly
all other fruits grown here.
Now there are thousand of other localities
with similar conditions, where never a Peach
orchard has been set simply because people
imagine they are too far north of the Peach
belt.
Delaware may not retain her monopoly
on Peach production much longer. The
1889.
POPULAR GARDENING.
33
yellows seems to play havoc with Delaware
orchards, and the country needs new fields.
Where Peaches can he relied on to bear
nearly every year, they are a most prolita-
hle crop: and people in favored localities
sIkiuUI not hesitate to test the suitability ot
their soils for Peach growins and plant
largely when the results of the investigation
are favorable.
Pe.vch Culture. Here it is indeed Peach
culture, with the accent on culture — not
merely Peach growing. The lesson that
Peaches need cultivation (and where that is
given proper feeding is not likely to be
neglected), could in no way be more indeli-
bly impressed upon one's mind than by a
comparison between the many orchards
kept as clean as a garden, with their splen-
did, large specimens of trees, in healthy,
dark-colored foliage, and the few weedy,
neglected plantations with dwarfed,sprangly
trees, and yellowish, sickly foliage. This
difference was striking, and observable in
every ca.se, alike with Peaches, Pears and
Plums, so striking, indeed, that it would
convince the most sceptical. We confess
that we have never seen orchards kept more
scrupulously clean, nor met thriftier and
healthier looking trees than in the fortunate
vicinity of Lewiston, Youngstown and Ni-
agara-on-the-Lake.
Dr.\inage. Peaches do not like wet feet.
We suspect that want of proper drainage is
the real cause of failure with Peaches in
more cases than people dream of. Near
Youngstown we saw an orchard remarka-
bly for its thrift and luxuriance. A little
brook formed the line on one side, and here
the land was sloping. The row along the
brook consisted of a sorry looking lot of
trees, which were in notable contrast w^th
the splendid specimens just above, and Mr.
Henry Lutts, our kind host and guide, told
us that the proprietor had repeatedly re-
planted that one row, but could not succeed
in making any of the trees grow like those
on higher ground. Similar incidents have
often been observed by us in other localities.
Here we have the explanation why people
so often tell us that their Peaches give full
crops on rather thin upland, while they fail
on rich bottom land. It is not the richness
of the soil, that works mischief, but lack of
proper drainage. And our experience fur-
ther leads us to prefer natural to artificial
drainage. If the subsoil is porous. Peaches
often do remarkably well even on stiil clay
soil. Mr. Lntt's crops are a notable example.
But where natural drainage is lacking,
mere surface drainage is not sufficient.
This only removes the water from the top,
but still leaves the trees with wet feet. It
will not do for the Peach. Now we have
the following, 1 ) favorable locality; 3)
thorough cultivation (of course with proper
feeding),and 3) thorough drainage, as indis-
pensable conditions of the best success.
Good-Sized Fruit. The grower does not
only want fruit, but he wants that which
win sell readily and bring him a good price.
The steam boat which conveyed us from
Lewiston to Niagara on the Canada side was
pretty well loaded with Peaches, Pears,
Quinces etc., consigned to Toronto. At Ni-
agara the local horticultural Society held a
very creditable exhibition in the town ball
and here again we met fine selected fruit.
So we had plenty of opportunity to notice
the great difference in size and general ap-
pearance of the same variety of fruit as
marketed or exhibited by different growers.
A basket of these small inferior Peaches
looks small and mean indeed when stand-
ing right beside a basket of great, large,
fine specimens, and the grower of the small
ones, when noticing the contrast could not
help to feel small and mean too. The returns
are in correspondence with the size of fruit.
" It is owing to the amount of fruit, the trees
were made to bear, " said Mr. Lutts. "Atree
can carry only a certain amount of weight.
If too many specimens are left on, they ■will
be small. But it is always better and more
profitable to put this weight in fewer speci-
mens, and have them of large and salable
size." The problem only is how to relieve
the tree of the specimens that are in excess,
or prevent excessive fruit-setting. Some-
times, and especially with smaller trees,
the growers here go over the tree, limb after
limb, thinning the fruit while small; but the
method preferred by most people, we talked
with, consists in thinning out the young
gi'owth in the center of the free, during fall
or spring, to remove part of the bearing
shoots, and open the tree to air and sun.
The beneficial effectsof such thinning were
sho^^^l us in a basket of Hynes's Surprise
Peach, which Mr. Henry Lutts had sent to
this office early in August; and which con-
tained luscious specimens of uniform and
large size, all grown on this method of giv-
ing to each fruit its due allowance of space.
A Fixe Early Peach. This Hyne's
Surprise, a Tennessee variety of recent in-
troduction, is well thought of by growers
near the Lake. Mr. Curye, an enthusiastic
Canadian Peachgrower,told us he had jilant-
ed 100 trees 4 years ago. Asthe product of
these he sold the second years 40 baskets,
the third year 250 baskets, and thi-i year
(which all Peach growers in that vicinity
agree in the first year in ten they failed to
have a full crop, owing to the frost late in
May 270) baskets. The three crops netted
him -*1 'Zb per basket, so that he received for
his crops §50.00, S312 50, and S337.50, or an
aggregate of almost STOO.OO. Of course he is
enthusiastic over his success.
The Yellows. Little fear of that great
bug-bear, the Y'ellows, was expressed by
any of the Peach growers, although they
claim it occasionally makes its presence
known, and we were shown trees and limbs
of trees al leged to be affected with the disease.
In a rather hasty examination, however, we
could not detect any of the symptons which
we thought were characteristic of the true
Y''ellows, especially that "porcupine-appear-
ance" produced by numerous tiny shoots,
as we have often seen it elsewhere. In some
cases we thought we could trace the cause of
thesickly, yellowish appearance of trees to
" wet feet " or lack of cultivation and feeJ.
When one of the trees shows signs of al-
leged yellows, it is simply torn out and de-
stroyed, and this stops the trouble. Specific
remedies do not seem to be needed here, and
yet it is a fact that further away from the
Lake, in the same county, Peach culture is
pretty near abandoned just on account of
the ravages of this disease.
Mushrooms for IVIarket and Home
Use.
JOHN ASH. NORFOLK CO., MASS.
Materials for Beds. Good fresh stable
manure must be procured in sufBcient
quantity for the size of the bed to be made,
and it should come from stables where
healthy horses are kept, as that from horses
dosed vrith drugs will often cause failure.
Let the manure be put into a heap, say from
three to four feet high, shaking out of it the
longest of the litter. Make the heap square
if the manure is in good condition, or rather
drj', but if wet, let the width of the heap be
one-third the length, so that the working ot
it will help to dry it. Let the heap remain
about a week, then turn it, carefully mixing
the outside with the middle. This should
be four times, allowing an interval of not
longer than two or three days between each
turning. The manure should then be in
good condition for being made into a bed.
Formation of Bed. If the bed is to be
made in an ordinary Mushroom house, give
it a depth of ten inches in front, and sixteen
inches at the back, if in an outhouse or
shed it should be made against a wall in a
similar manner, or when there is room,
make the bed ridge-shaped, about two feet
nine inches at the base, and three feet high.
It is indispensable in every case, that the
bed rest upon a thoroughly drained bottom.
In making the bed, the manure should be
again thoroughly mixed, as above directed,
and beaten down as firmly as possible.
Beds made according to these dimensions
will be found to contain a sutfient body of
manure to generate and maintain heat
enough for the production of the crop. A
temperature of from 60° to 65° from the time
it is spawned, until it has finished bearing
is required.
To determine the suitableness of the bed
for spawning is one of the most important
points, as the manure may be in the finest
possible condition when the bed is made,
but having a strong tendency to become
heated, soon rises to a high temperature
which causes it to dry so that before the bed
is cool enough to spawn, it may be too dry
to produce a crop. The bed should therefore
be tested "before spawing " by taking out
a handful of the manure at about nine
inches below the surface and pressing it
tightly in the hand, when, if it retains near-
ly the same shape into which it has been
pressed, after the pressure is removed, it is
in good condition ; but if it falls to pieces,
it is too dry and the bed must be allowed to
cool down to about .50°, when it must be re-
made, thoroughly breaking it in pieces,
mixing it well, and carefully damping it
through a very fine rose. The temperature
in this case will not rise nearly as fast as
when the bed was first made, and some-
times the heat will not rise at all, in which
case, the bed must be spawned at once and
covered up well to help to raise and main-
tain the temperature.
In order to allow the excessive heat to es-
cape, when the bed is first made, make a
number of holes in the bed about twelve
inches apart, allowing it to cool down to a
temperature of from 65° to 70° when it
should be spawned. Care should be taken
to guard against the manure getting too
wet, this can be ascertained by pressing the
manure between the fingers and the palm
of the hand, when, if a slight hissing sound
is heard, the manure is too wet, and the
chances of success are very small.
In spawning the bed, break up the cakes
of spawn into pieces about three inches by
two inches and bury them just below the
surface, eight or nine inches apart every
way, then beat down the bed firmly so as to
present an even appearance, cover the sur-
face with mould and beat down to the thick-
ness of about two inches, then put on a
covering of soft litter. If the above men-
tioned temperature be maintained, the
Mushrooms will begin to appear in about
six weeks. Avoid watering the bed if pos-
sible, this can generally be done by keeping
the covering damp, using care that it does
not get saturated with water. When water-
ing is absolutely necessary, it should be
done through a very fine rose using tepid
water, as cold water will check, if not spoil
the crop. When gathering the Mushrooms,
take them out by the roots, if these are
allowed to remain, they will seriously in-
terfere with the succeeding crops.
1,44K. Settiner Strawberries. Fall is best titae
in the south. You can best learn the varieties
that succeed in your climate by consulting
neigboring fruit growers. The Crescent Fertili-
zed by the Bidwell, possibly the May King, are
adapted to your section.— i. J. Farmer.
1,400. Wintering Eoots. One of the very best
and safest ways ot storing Rutabagas, Beets, Car-
rots, etc., is by pitting, same way as much prac-
ticed for Potatoes, and descritied in October
number, which see. —
34
POPULAR GARDENING.
November,
Selection of Spring Flowering Bulbs.
A. M. DUNNING, CATTJGA CO., N. T.
The season for planting bulbs for spring
flowering is upon us. And for those who
study the florists" catalogues the array of
names is almost bewildering; and yet named
varieties are quite essential to the lover of
flowers, and give far more satisfaction than
the promiscous lots usually sold as bed-
ding varieties.
After an experience of a number of years
in testing a great many varieties, the writer
has settled down on the following as giving
the best satisfaction. The requirements for
outside bedding are uniformity of bloom,
uniformity of hight, beautiful colors, good
constitution and cheapness.
Tdlips. For the very earliest of these a
bed of Due A''an Thols is desirable. They
come in good colors of red, white, yellow,
and meet all the above requirements, but
are rather small and fade early.
For the next early single Tulip the best
three are Artus, red. La Reine, white, with
sometimes a faint tinge of blush, and Yel-
low Prince. These can be planted in rings
and make a beautiful bed together. Two
other beautiful kinds are Rose Grisdelin,
a delicate shaded
rose, and Proserpine
a beautiful carmine
ro.=e color. It these
are planted in the'^^>/:)>,
same bed with the
three others the Rose
Grisdelin should be
around the outside,
as it is a little short-
er, and the Proser-
pine in the center, as
it is slightly taller
than the others. They
all bloom together
and make a magnifi-
cent show.
Some of the late
double Tulips are
very satisfactory, the
three best being Rex
Rubrosum, red; La
Candeur, white; and
Yellow Rose. The
latter should be on
the outside, as it does
not stand quite as
erect as the others,
but it is greatly ad-
mired, a great golden
ball with the fra-
grance and form of
the white Water Lily.
■ Tulips should nev-
er be planted in the
same bed two years in succession, unless
the earth is changed to a depth of a foot or
more. They should be placed about four
inches apart and not less than three or four
inches in the earth.
Htacinths. Of these the German growers
catalogue several hundred varieties. Hya-
cinths at best are somewhat slift' in form,
but the single are so much better than the
double in this respect that I have discarded
the latter entirely. The best single varieties
are as follows: Marie, for dark blue; La
ties by themselves with Amy in the center,
and the three last with Ida in the center.
Hyacinths should be planted six inches
apart and five inches deep, and should have
a light covering of compost thrown over
them as soon as the ground freezes.
Crocus can be planted in the same
bed with Tulips and Hyacinths, as they
bloom about a month earlier and before the
THE VINE-LEAVED ABUTILON. SEE OPPOSITE PAGE
j others come on. The blue Scilla Siberia
can be planted the same as Crocus. They
are very desirable and quite a novelty.
I In planting Tulips and Hyacinths the
j earth should be removed to the proper
I depth, and then the bulbs placed on the
surface and pressed in enough too keep
' them in place. Then scatter the earth
1 evenly over them; and if Crocus are to be
planted in the same bed, before putting on
all the earth, smooth over the bed and place
' them .so they will be at about two inches be-
Grandesse, the best white; Amy, a deep j low the final surface. Planting can still be
carmine, tall and showy; R; Steiger, a lighter
shade, a little shorter; Ida, the only good
yellow; Lord Derby, light blue, a beautiful
shade, large bells; Gigantea, a pleasing pink
with large truss and bells.
The two latter are magnificent. The above
all bloom together, and can be mixed up
promiscuously in plantmg, or planted in
rings of separate colors. A still better way
is to plant an oval bed with a diagonal bar
across the center with one kind, and each
end with other kinds. In this way a good
arraagement is to plant the three first varie-
done in November, if not done before.
All of these bulbs can be taken up as soon
as the tops show signs of ripening, say in
June, and stored in a cool, dry place for
planting the succeeding autumn, but better
results will be obtained by planting new
bulbs each year. They all soou run out if
left permanently in the ground. They are
so well grown now, and are so cheap (they
would be still cheaper if the 20 per cent duty
was removed) that they ought to be more
widely disseminated to gladden the hearts
of more people every spring.
The Clematises: History and Uses.
FRANCIS FELL, LONDON, ENGLAND.
iCmicluded from paye 11.)
The Clematises rank amongst the noblest
of climbers for forming an avenue, or a shady
walk, in a more formal flower garden.
When used for this purpose the young
shoots should be tied and regularly divided
until they meet at the top, but when once
firmly fixed, very little attention is required,
except removing the weakly and ill-ripened
portion of the one-year-old wood. A similar
effect will be produced when used for
festooning, or when trained over verandas,
etc. In all cases a liberal annual top-dress-
ing of well-rotted manure is highly benefi-
cial, and should never be neglected if strong
growth and large flowers are required.
As a bedding plant, it is diflScult to
imagine anything more striking. The effect
produced by the masses of blue, white and
purple-shaded flowers either associated with
the general arrangements of bedding plants
or isolated on the lawn, is beyond descrip-
tion. The beds should be prepared during
the winter months, the soil should be well
treuched, and a liberal dressing of compost
worked in. In order to show the flowers to
the best advantagei
the soil should be
raised gradually
towards the centre .so
as to give a convex
surface to the bed;
also large roots or
branches of trees can
be used for raising
the bed towards the
centre. Whatever
plan may be adopted,
the plants must at
first be trained until
they have furnished
the space to be cov-
ered, when they may
Ije allowed to grow
more at random.
The young plants
can be planted at any
time, about two feet
apart, during open
weather until the
end of March, but in
order to start the
lower buds, the
plants should be cut
down to within six
or eight inches from
the base. Although
the first outlay for
such beds is a trifle
more than for ordi-
nary bedding plants,
it is by far the cheapest in the long run,
considering the gorgeous efl'ect they are
capable of producing tor many years to
come without the incurring of any further
expense.
Many other ways in which Clematis may
be fitly introduced could be mentioned, but
as we have already pointed out the most
suitable places, it will be sufficient to say
that they are no less at home in wilderness
scenery,or amongst grotesque arrangements
of old tree stumps. In fact the bed, the
pillar, the wall, the rocks, or whatever it
may be, is merely a skeleton, or foundation,
on which thegloriousbloomsof the Clematis
are to be displayed.
A long list could be made of each of the
different sections in which they are divided,
but as it is advi-sable to plant only the best,
I shall enumerate a few of the most useful
and striking varieties which can be easily
grown l)y anyone who has a garden or a
green-house. The following sorts we con-
sider to be the most meritorious and best
adapted for the purposes indicated by the
special headings :
1889.
POPULAR GARDENING.
35
I. FOR STANDARDS AND GROUPS FOR LAWNS.
^/cj-<jii<(r(i,pale yellow violet, .Inly t<iOctober,
AiHleriim Ucnryi, large ereamy-wliite flowers;
August to .VovemlKT ; Beaxtji of Witrctatrr,
bluish velvet with white stamens, July to Octo-
ber; KxeUior, a distinct (iouble-tloweriug sort,
deep, rich \iolet, July to October: Gi/wj/ Queen,
rich, velvety purple, .Tuly to Octolwr; Jach-
maniii. rich, velvety \ioIet purple, .Inly to Octo-
lK>r; La'hj Canliim Xcvitle, white, with a white
stripe running' ilown the centre of the sepal,
July to October; Lanuginosa nivca. larsre, pure
white, July to October; Lawmniatia, bright,
rosy purple, slightly marlied with darker veins,
August to November; Oltn Fruhcl, grayish
white, with a central tuft of brownish anthers.
July to Octolx'r; TltunhrMgensif, deep bluish
purple, with a pale violet central band, July to
October; Wm. Kennett, deep, shining lavender.
II. FOR COVF.RING WALLS, PILLARS, ETC.
Albert Tichir. rich lavender, with a purple
band through the centre of each sepal. May to
July ; Co«ii(fs.< of Lovelace, bluish-lilac, with a
dense rosette of deep lilac in the centre. May to
July; Far Rosanumd, bluish-white, with wine-
red bands, very sweet scented, June to August;
Forhinei, double white, sweet-scented, June to
August; Gem, intense lavender blue, June to
October ; GInire de St. Julien. white tlushed, with
pale violet when young, July to October; Law-
sox'ana, bright rosy-purple, slightly marked
with darker veins, .August to November ; Lord
Lomlefhorough, deep %-iolet, with purplish-red
bars. May to July; Miss Bafema/i, white, with
chocolate-red anthers. May to July; Montana
iirandiilora, white. May to July ; Stella, pale \-io-
Ict, with well-defined bands of a reddish-plum
color. May to July ; Victoria, a distinct reddish-
violet, July to November.
III. FOR PEKMAXEXT BEDDIXG.
Alexandra; Helene, pure white, ivlth straw-
colored anthers. May to July; Jackmanni;
Prince of TTate, deep purple, with a dark-red bar
in the centi-e of each sepal, July to October ;
Rubella, rich claret-purple, July to October ;
Ruha riolacca, maroon-purple, flushed with
reddish violet, July to October ; Star of India,
deep plum color, with turkey red bars, July to
October; Thunbrldgens'S, deep bluish-purple,
with pale central bands, July to October.
IV. FOR ox KOCKWORK AND ROOTERIES.
Flammula, white, small flowering variety, very
sweet-scented, July to October ; Hendersnni, rich
bluish-purple, small bell-shaped flowers, June to
September; Jackmanni; Montana; Rubra Vi^j-
lacea; Velulina iturpurca, blackish-mulberry,
July to October.
y. FOR PLANTING IX COOL GREEX-HOUSES.
Albert Victor; Anderson Henryi; Duchess of
Kdinhurgli. large double white, deliciously frag-
rant. May to July; Fair Rosamond; Fortxtnei;
Jafdmaimi -J Iba, pure white. July to October;
J<ihn Gloud Veitch, soft lavender-blue, double-
flowering variety, June to July ; Indivisa, pure
white, star-shaped, very sweet-scented, adapted
for a warm greenhouse; Lanuginosa nirea,
large, pure white, July to October ; Lucie
Lemuine, double white rosette-flowered, well
M>/
§Wi?r'
■A-
BRICK AND TILE GREENHOUSt WALL.
contrasted by its pale-yellow anthers. May to
July ; Madame Van Houtte, white, July to Octo-
ber ; Wm. Kenrtet, deep lavender, July to Oct.
White Vine-Leaved Abutilon.
A highly interesting form of the always
pleasing Abutilon or Chinese Bell flower Is
Abutilon vitifolium, a shrub or a tree from
Chili, which has been found hardy in the
South of England with slight protection
from frost and sometimes attains a height
of .30 feet. The original form porcelain,
blue, large, cupped flowers and cordate, five
to seven lobed leaves which toward autumn
H.ssume a fine, golden, yellow blue. It is
not a very fast grower, however. As witli
all other varieties, thorough drainage must
be provided for this plant. The best soil for
VARIOUS FORMS OF GREENHOUSE WALLS.
it is a mixtute of turfy loam and leaf mold
with some gritty sand. Our illustration
(reduced from Gardeners' Chronicle) repre-
sents flower and leaf of a beautiful new va-
riety, A. vitifolium alba. The flower of
course is of the usual bell shape, but drawn
in full face in order to show the five-fold
arrangement of the stamens. Originallj'
five, they subdivide into a large number.
The flowers are pure white, and particular-
ly ornamented.
Construction of Greenhouse Walls.
In the erection of greenhouses and vege-
table-forcing houses very little attention is
often given to the proper construction of
the walls. People depend on flues or pipes
to furnish all the heat that may be reqmred
and care little about the heat that may be
lost through thin and carelessly-put-up
sides and walls. This heat, however, is
considerable, and if its escape is properly
guarded against by good walls, will result
in a great saving of fuel, and in some cases,
perhaps, prevent injury to plants by cold.
Mr. Samuel B. Green, of the Minnesota
Hatch E.xperiment Station, has made a
comparative test of the efficacy of variously
constructed walls. These, as described and
illustrated in Station Bulletin No. 7, were
made as follows :
Section 1 of the greenhouse has two four-
inch walls of brick, with a three-inch hollow
tile between, and so laid that there is an air
space of one inch on each side of the hollow
tile, between it and the brick covering,
making this wall thirteen inches thick when
finished and with three dead air spaces.
The next section has a solid brick wall
thirteen inches thick. See fig. 2.
The third section— a brick wall thirteen
inches thick, having a five-inch air space
inside. See fig. 3.
For section 4 two four-inch courses of brick
are laid on each side of a three-inch box,
which is as high and wide as the section.
In other words, it is a three-inch hollow
wooden wall with a brick veneer on each
side. See fig. 4.
The wall for Section .5 is made of a four-
inch studding covered with matched boards,
building paper and clapboards on the out-
side only. See fig. .5.
The wall of Section 6 was made the same
as number .5, but, in addition, boarded up
inside, and so was left a four-inch dead-air
space. See fig. fi.
In Section 7 the wall was made the same
as number 6, only it was filled with dry pine
saw dust. See fig. 7.
All of the above mentioned sections are so
tight that there is no circulation of air in
them, and no water can get inside.
The readings of the thermometers in the
boxes against every section, and those re-
cording the temperature of the greenhouse,
and the outside air, were taken at 7 a.m., 10
a. m. and fi p. m. This record justifies the
following conclusions :
1. Where more than one air space is put
in the brick wall (figs. 1 and 4) it is much
warmer than the lined board wall filled with
saw dust : but the lined board wall with a
saw dust filling is as warm as the brick wall
with one dead-air space.
2. Of the brick walls, the warmest is that
made of brick and hollow tile, leaving three
air spaces.
3. The wooden wall with a brick veneer
is warmer than the hollow-brick wall.
4. The hollow-brick wall with a five-inch
air space was nearly, though not quite so
warm :is a thirteen-inch solid wall.
n. Of the walls made of wood the warmest
is that made with an interior lining and
filled with four inches of dry saw dust.
(Fig. 7.) This wall was warmer than the
wall made with a hollow air space of four
inches and not filled with saw dust. (Fig.
6.) This difference was most apparent in
the severest weather.
fi. There is a very great difference between
the walls built of a single, well-made
wooden covering, even though having
tarred paper under the clapboards and in-
side (Fig. .5), and the same wall when well
sheathed up inside. This difference is so
great that for stables as well as for green-
houses and dwelling houses, it will well
repay the owner to sheath up inside and
even to fill the air space with some dry, non-
ducting material. In this experiment the
temperature of the simple wooden wall
(Fig. .5) in severe weather was frequently
from five to ten degrees below freezing
point, while none of the other kinds reached
nearly so low a temperature.
Probably the cheapest warm wall for gen-
eral farm purposes is one made of wood with
a four-inch air space which is filled with dry
saw dust or other non-conducting material
When a hollow wall is to be filled with
saw dust or similar material, it is all im-
portant that the material should be dry
when put in and then be so protected that
it cannot get wet either from water coming
in at the top or the sides.
In making a dead-air space the sides of the
wall should be tight both inside and out, in
order to prevent any circulation of air and
to have it a true rh'fid air space. Dead air
is the best of non-conductors, but its effi-
ciency depends to a great extent upon the
number of times it is broken up and multi-
plied. While dry saw dust gave very excel-
lent results as a filling for walls in this case,
it is probable that dry chaff, cut straw or hay
would answer nearly as well.
1,394. Hill Culture of Raspberries. But few
growers practice this method now. .\ continu-
ous row is found more convenient and profitable.
Five to six feet is about the right distance be-
tween the rows.— M. B. Faxos.
I,3ft7. Wood Ashes. The July crop with which
I have bad unfavorable results from the use of
wood ashes is Potatoes. It seemed to induce
scab. On all fruit crops good ashes are a valua-
ble fertilizer.- M. B. F.
1,.3!<8. House Slops, Liquid Manure, Etc, I
very much doubt ordinary house slops being of
sufficient value to pay for hauling i^ miles.
They will add very much to the richness of a
compost heap, however, and should be utilized
in this way.— M. B. F.
36
POPULAR GARDENING.
November,
Frost and Flowers.
He is in tile garden,
Let me liaste !
He is in tile garden
Mailing waste.
Marigold and Pansy,
Dalilia, Aster, Tansy,—
Such a nosegay scarce is to my taste.
Mignonette, my dearest,
Art thou here ?
Tuberose, thou fearest ?
I am near !
Come, each bud and flower.
Come and grace ray bower.
Come ! it is the f alilng of the year.
He is in the garden :
Let him be.
Wiii he asli our pardon ?
No, not he !
But the flowers are iilooming,
Ali tile Iiouse perfmning,
Safe beyond his touch, for you and me.
Ida Benham, in TouWs Companion.
The Pumpkins.
Here we iie amid the corn-fleld. gorgeous yellow as
the sunshine-
All the mandarins of China cannot equal us in tone;
But the world is quite forgetting what we malce and
what our mission.
And the twilight of Thanlisgiving finds us in the
fields alone.
Oh! ye children of New England, as ye gather for
Thanksgiving,
As ye watch the sparks fly upward from your bright
ancestral fires,
Auld Lang Syne should be remembered : let us see our
restoration!
Clamor for the Golden Pumpkin, wives and daugh-
ters, sons and sires!
The Independent .
Protection month.
Violets prefer a cool spot.
The boys should go " nutting."
Gathered leaves make a good mulch.
Good riddance of bad rubbish— burn it.
Planting must be done quickly if at all.
Syrnp from Water Melons is now talked of.
Onions, It has been a poor year for the seed
crop.
Even the manure pile now does best under
shelter.
Garden seeds are expected to be cheaper anoth-
er year.
Celery is never better to eat than before frost
injures it.
Have some tools been left in the fence corners ?
It's not right.
Blanket the bulb beds with leaves or litter, Just
before winter.
Are the young trees, staked, or surrounded
with a mound of soil V
A good job for now. Revise and renew labels
before the winter sets in.
No killing frost yet on Popular Gardening
grounds middle of October.
For a pretty ornament, All a Cocoanut shell
with Kenilwort Ivy and bang by the window.
Kazzard is better stock for Cherries than
Mahaleb. The latter suffers more from borer
attacks.
One thing much to be admired in the Purple-
leaved Plum is that it holds its color well to the
end of season.
The Double-flowered Peach of Japan and China
is reported to succeed well near Paris, France,
but does not seem to thrive in England.
The gardener who does not try to protect his
crops against insect attacks, does an injustice to
his neighbors besides an injury to himself.
Moore's Early Grape. Too much can not be
said in its praise. I had salable fruit certainly
two weeks before the Concord was rijie.— T. If'tlc)/,
Kansas.
The seed firm of Joseph Breck & Sons of Bos-
ton announce that they have purchased the
stock, good will, rights and agencies of C. H.
Thompson & Co. of same place.
An interesting little Fernery may be made by
hollowing out a large sponge, planting the Ferns
in it with a little good soil, and placing in a deep
saucer, kept filled with water at all times.
We promise a small fortune to the man who
will give us a Gooseberry with the general
characteristics of the Houghton bush, and the
size of any of the large foreign sorts in fruit.
For a Blackberry in this severe climate I pre-
fer Ancient Briton to all others. On 130 plants,
second year after setting, or the -first bearing
year, I gathered 485 quarts.-^. C. Tattle, Wis-
Put the young Roses just rooted, into a cellar
or pit, and if started early in the spring in the
house, and set out when danger from frost is
over, they will bloom finely the whole summer.
A novel way of striking Rose cuttings is said
to be much in use with European growers. A
ten-inch cutting is bent in the form of a bow, and
both ends inserted into the earth, so that only a
part of the center with the bud is above the
ground. This arrangement stops the evapora-
tion from the top end, while the lower end is
forming roots.
A New Plant Book. We are pleased to learn
that Messrs. Peter Henderson & Co. of New York
are issuing their Handbook of Plants in a new
and revised form. This work we have always es-
teemed as one of great value and to now learn
that it is to be thoroughly revised, enlarged and
illustrated is most agreeable. The new form will
be out in January next.
Apple Export. American Apples were quoted
middle of October, in Liverpool: Baldwins $3.68
to S4.87 per bbl.. Greenings .$3.16 to $3.6.5 per bbl.;
in Glasgow: Greenings $3.40 to $3.89, Baldwins
$4.13 to J4.85, Kings $4.8.5 to $.5.83, Ben Davis t4.62
to $4.85. Only 4.3,000 barrels of Apples had been
shipped up to October 5th, as against 175,000 bar-
rels for the same period in 1888.
Striking Bose Cuttings. Now is a good time
to strike Rose cuttings. Select a stem that has
just bloomed. Cut off three joints below the
flower, and below the lower bud all the leaves
but one ; insert in a pot of pure sand up to with-
in half an inch of the top ; set in a partially
shaded place, keep moist all the time, and in a
month they will have rooted sufficient to be
potted off.— S.
Late Fall Work. One of the last things we do
in the autumn is to plow our late Cabbage ground.
There is always a great quantity of leaves and
rubbish on it, and we find the easiest way to get
rid of it aU is to work it in the ground after the
Cabbage is cut. The green stuff is almost equal
to a dressing of manure at this time, while if fit
be left until spring, it is about all wasted, and the
ground will not be in nearly as good condition as
if cleaned up now.— C. C.
Pushing Sales of Fruit. .Vt Brocton, N. Y.,
which is in the midst of the Chautauqua Co. vine-
yard region, boys treat the passengers of railroad
trains that stop here, to luscious, cool, bloom-
covered Concord Grapes at 10 cents per pint bas-
ket heaped with clusters. The passengers invest
freely; the boys and Grape growers reap quite a
harvest, and the Concord gains in reputation as
to its fine eating quality. Many travellers may
not be discriminating or exacting judges in such
a matter; however, the idea of this pushing sales
is a good one.
For protecting house plants during the winter
nights, old newspapers are excellent. The object
is to hold a body of still air about the plants and
this the papers, if pinned closely, do nicely.
Very often putting several thicknesses of paper
between the plants and the window will give all
the protection needed. A friend, whose house is
" cold," spreads some old newspapers on the car-
pets, sets the plants on the papers, and then pins
papers about and o\'er the plants. This does
nicely.- JohH M. Stahl.
Overhung Planthouse. Amongst the curiosi-
ties of greenhouse construction may be men-
tioned the "overhung" planthouse of IWessrs.
Wrinch & Co. of Ipswich, England, shown in il-
lustration. It has features, however, which
make growers look favorably upon the design.
The greenhouse benches usually are far too much
beyond arm's length to be conveniently worked.
The overhung plant house, besides its pleasing
form, affords greater space for the tops of plants
than they retjuire for pot room.
A Flower Tower. Our florists are what may be
called real enterprising. One of the latest things
POTTING BPNCH.
out, in the way of floral designs, is a mmiature
Eiffel tower about four feet high. No doubt
there are occasions where such a floral piece is in
demand. It may be said in its favor that the
graceful outlines of the tower, as we are familiar
with the vast original in Paris, and now in its
miniature facsimile, suit it to produce a pleasing
effect when filled with blooms, and to render it
superior to many other designs.
The Patterson Peach, two fine specimens of
which were received of
Albertson & Hobbs, Mar-
ion County, Ind., is high-
colored .yellow with dark
red cheek, somewhat
j|l=i^:i.Q=H|^=— li resembling Late Craw-
^J^V" g^lgyl ford. Late, apparently
an excellent keeperbeing
tested by us on 13th day
after picking, and after
considerable handling
and exposure on the ex-
hibition table. Unfor-
tunately the flesh clings
badly to the stone, but the quality is excellent,
rich, meat.v, not inferior to any Peach known to
us. The tree is said to be immensely productive,
and the fruit of uniform and largest size.
Naming Vegetables. Under the authority of
the Association of American 'Agricultural Col-
leges and Experiment Stations a committee con-
sisting of Profs. L. H. Bailey, E. S. Goff, and W.
J. Green have wrestled with the problem of
bringing more system into'the Babylonian confu-
sion of vegetable nomenclature. They recommend
a set of rules, among them the following: The
name of variety should consist of not more than
two words, nor should it be superlative or bom-
bastic. Titles with personal names should be
omitted. The term h.vbrid should not be used
except where the variety is known to be of such
hybrid origin.
The Kieffer Pear. Much has been said concern-
ing the Kieffer Pear, and while it is not generally
conceded of first quality, its early bearing and
late ripening make it a very desirable fruit, both
for home use and market. We have had it bear
for us in nursery rows on two-year-old trees,
standards, and when dwarfed, it bears frequents
ly from five or six Pears on a tree at that age.
A neighbor of ours set an orchard of three-year-
old standards, two years ago, which have now
from a half peck to a half bushel per tree. At
two dollars a bushel, which is frequently paid
for them, it looks as though the Kieffer is des-
tined to be a very profitable market variety.—
H. W. Freeman.
Study of Botany. This is becoming diffused
among our district schools, but all too slowly.
We can not well stand this delay— it is too costly.
Another thing, in many schools the study of
botany is so unpiactical as to make it well nigh
worthless. Is it so in your school V Do you
know whether it is or not 't You should give this
matter your attention. Instead of studying the
flora of Africa, or memorizing the curious fea-
tures of Asiatic or Australian floral freaks, keep
the work at home. Our weeds should also be
studied, well studied. Their nature and life
OVERHUNG PLANT HOUSE,
history should be known to every pupil of the
country school ; and they should be employed
in analytical botany until they can be recogniz-
ed at sight by every pupil in the botany class.—
John M. Stahl.
The Metallic-leaved Begonia shown on the op-
posite page is one of the handsomest of a hand-
some class of plants whose greatest value lies in
their adaptability for general pot culture. It is
not among the most recent varieties of the Bego-
nias, but it is yet and always must be a leading
favorite. In habit the plant is erect-growing.
The beautiful leaves are of a triangular form
much longer than wide, rough and of a dark
bronzy green color, with the veins.depressed and
1889.
POPULAR GARDENING.
2^7
dark red. The peeuliar depressions of the veins
give the leaves a eraiw-like appearance. The
plant is a free bloomer, produeinp: flowers that
are waxy white when opened, but in the bud the
color is bright red with a surface like plush.
The blooin appears in panicles which give the
plani a most attraetive appearance.
Wintering Plants out doors, told frames for
wintering plants, unless covered so to keep out
snow and niin, are no protection, but on the
contrary, worse than useless. I once lost a lot
of line Pansy plants in this way: Not hartng
glass ready in the fall, poles were laid across the
frames and then covered with fine boughs; the
snow sifted through these and the heavy rains
that followed helped to form a solid cake of ice
inside, the frames acting like a vat to hold water.
The sash was put on early in the spring but not
soon enough to save the plants. The proper way
js to cover the frames with boards, or put on the
sash" in the fall when the weather becomes
cold, and then cover with straw or straw
matting to keep out the sun, till ready to
start the plants to growing in the spring.—
Jcnniaon.
Bailroad Station Gardening. This should
be heartih- eneouraired. I believe it made
its start in the east, but it is becoming notice-
able in the west, especially at suburban
points. As yet, anything more than foliage
plants, in massing and ribbon gardening, is
rarely used; but the foliage plants are much
to be thankful for, and more pretentious
efforts will surely follow. I think it is real
nice to have 'the name of the station in
plant-letters, though the foliage may not
be grouped quite so well as perfect taste
would have it; it is a refreshing sight to the
traveler; it makes "looking for the stations''
a decided pleasure. And when one has to
wait for the train, he isn't half civlhzed if the
foliage lettering and massing does not make
him an enthusiastic convert to railroad
station gardening.— John M.StaM.
The Queen of Antamn. The Chrysanthe-
mum is truly the people's flower, and every-
body may grow and bloom it to perfection.
The beginner should procure some good
old early sort of dwarfish habit, plant them
out in good rich soil on the east or south
side of a fence or building, keep them
cultivated by stirring the soil, and watered,
never too wet, never too dry, and by September
25th build a harbor about them, which may be of
any ordinary boards, line it with paper, and pro-
vide a cover of windows or boards protecting
from night frosts, removing the cover early ev-
ery morning, watering early in the morning, and
being sure the leaves are dry before covering in
at evening. Dwarfish sorts may be planted one
foot apart in May or June, cut back once to six
inches high and thereafter allowed to grow.
I/eave the strong growers, late bloomers, new
comers, and novelties for those with experience
and better prepared for growing them.— Joh)!
Lane, cliicayo. 111.
Chryaanthemums in a Snuer Harbor. Calling
upon a neighbor to see his Chrysanthemums, I
was led up to a rough-looking box about 16 feet
long by 4 feet wide and same height. Said he:
" See my snug harlior, just rough boards, lined
with old carpet, lining paper tacked on at the top
only, the end bottom boards removable and down
during the day time to allow airing below, boards
covering it at night and keeping the frost away
— alK)ut fifty plants, all one sort, set in June, cut
back once only; don't they look fine ? " 'Tis a
sight to behold, the many hundreds of buds just
opening showing color, above the bright green
leaves lielow them— a perfect success— the flow-
ers will be very fine. "Yes, I had the same last
year, the flowers came large and perfect, and
they kept coming. As we cut the first blooms,
others came from lower down— last year they
came into bloom about October 12th and kept
coming for six weeks." Earlj- kinds can be grown
thus with success and this kind seems at home
here — 'tis Chrj'santhemum " Mary Edd,'' of
dwarfish growth, profuse blooming, pure white,
medium size. It is largely grown here by the
florists for cut flowers. It is an old sort, was
brought here IH years ago. No new comer equals
it for early cut blooms.— Joftii Lane. Chicago. Ill,
Ivy Geraniums. These beautiful plants are
growing more and more in popularity, and de-
servedly so; for they have been so improved
that some are real beauties. They are alike use-
ful for hanging baskets to droop, or In pots to
train on trellis. Some have got so used to grow-
ing them in pots and baskets, that they never
think of liedding them out like other Geraniums.
Vet they are splendid plants for bedding pur-
poses, and grow very comi»act when set in the
open ground There is a freshness about them
that makes them charming, and the peculiar
scent of the leaves is a pleasure in itself. As
house plants they want good light, good soil, and
well-drained pots, and they should not be allow-
ed to become pot-bound. The following are
some good standard varieties : Jeanne d'Arc.
Pretty double white flower. A good growing
variety. La Bosiere, like the above except in
color which Is a beautiful rose. Galilee, a fine
sort with very large florets, color a lovely salmon
pink. Eden Marchi. This is a perfect gem semi-
double, and ought to lie in all collections of
plants. JIme. Thebaut, another grand variety-
L'Elegant, prized for the beautiful leaves'it has.
METALLIC-LtAVED BEGONIA.
and its white bloom is also pretty. Horace du
Cholseul ; Josephine Hohenzollern; La Prin-
temps ; Gem ; Segrier ; Anna Phitzer ; and Rob-
ert Fortune are all good.— G. Basting Diemer.
A Convenient Potting Bench. It is surprising
how many ladies that keep plants get along
without any arrangement on which to do their
potting, but will year after year get down on the
ground in search for dirt to pot their plants.
Now this is a disagreeable way of doing what
might be a real pleasure. For I enjoy repotting
plants when everything necessary is at hand, but
what a bother when one must go for a pot here,
and some broken crock there, and so on for the
different Ingredients for potting soil, and then
no place to do it handily. A simple contrivance
will save a good deal of ve.xation and facilitate
the work greatly, and a better job can be done.
Have four posts I pieces of scantling or some-
thing lighter ) cut as high as you want to stand
up comfortly; then nail boards eight inches
wide around. It will then have the appearance
of a table with the top taken off. Then put in a
bottom, and then you have a bench. Now if you
want a place for soil and pots etc., nail some
boards around the legs. And it you want some
shade you can run up four posts and nail boards
around and on top. Drive some nails inside of
this to hang a pair of scissors and strings and a
hammer and one on which to hang a hanging
basket while filling it or making it over. This
position will prevent the chains from getting
tangled, and prove quite a satisfaction. Have
your potting bench in a handy place, in a shed or
summer kitchen or arbor, and whenever you
have good soil, pots, or broken crockery, put it
there, and when you have potting or repotting
to do can find things ready.— G. Baiting Diemer.
New York Floral Notes.
Trade is begiiuDing to look up a little now, and
flowers are improving in price as the cool weath-
er drives stragglers back to town. The street
venders selling Golden Rod and Asters have been
crowded out by the autumn leaf man, and the
same gorgeous foliage decorates some of the
florists' windows. Roses are greatly improved in
quality, as well as price; prospects are favorable
for good crops, in spite of the unfavorable season.
There is complaint of a good deal of loss in
Carnations; the excessive damp has in many
cases rotted the roots. More than one grower
has seen his Carnation beds regular swamps for
the greater part of thesummer. Another trouble
which resulted in loss among Koses was the rav-
ages committed by cock-chafer grubs; when in
the fresh sod used in Rose borders they eat off
the newly set-out plants. One grower com-
plained of having re-planted a bed of Perles three
times, because of this pest. The third time the
sod was carefully scrutinized, and the grubs de-
stroyed. Insects of all kinds have been particu-
larly annoying this season, as is usually the case
when there is wet weather.
As for flowers, it looks as if there would be a
very large crop of Roses, and there is no sign of
their diminishing in popularity. A good many
Papa Gontiers will be grown in spite of the
objection to its habit of dropping its leaves;
a good many consider that this fault only
occurs when spider is present.
It is noticeable now that very few women
^re wearing flowers on the street; where one
woman wears a corsage bunch, a dozen men
wear single Carnations in their coats; a re-
versal of three or four years ago.
Some of the autumn weddings have, as
usual, displayed a graceful use of autumn
foliage in their decorations. But it is im-
possible to mix flowers with this foliage,
without destroying the grace of both. Dec-
orations, so far, have shown no decided
originality; there is the usual mixture of big
Roses, Smilax, Asparagus, and Palms. Earlier
in the season, the most effective work was
done with big masses of Otaksa Hydrangea,
which was finer this year than ever before.
Some very pretty wall or screen decora-
tions this summer have been made by twin-
ing tennis nets with flowers, vines and
blossoms being stuck into the meshes of the
net. Probably this originated in the brain
of some festhetic but frugal woman who
wished to do her own decorating, but the
Idea is quite pretty enough to be gratefully
regarded by the florists. The prettiest way is
so to arrange the flowers that the meshes of
the net are occasionally seen. This was done
at the Blaine-McCormick wedding.
Nothing very novel has teen noted In table
garnishing, but the custom of confining the dec-
oration to one variety or one color of flower stUl
continues. Although not at all new, a flat basket
or bowl of Allamanda bordered by Ferns, is still
recognized for its beauty, especially where yel-
low is the prevailing color in the table apoint-
ments, Perle Roses and Buttercup Carnations
may be used as favors with the Allamanda.
Some teautif ul decorations have been arranged
with Cattleyas, Heliotrope and Purple Pansies.
Such an arrangement on a table lighted by can-
dles with Violet >hades is the perfection of re-
fined elegance. Luncheon arrangements are
rather more simple than they were; ostentatious
decoration at such a would-be simple entertain-
ment is regarded as vulgar. A single bowl of
flowers, with flower favors for the guests, is the
recognized style.
It is noticeable that while floral fashions in the
great cities, such as New York, Boston, and so
on, change greatly year by year, they remain at
the same dead level of commonplace in smaller
towns, even among those regarded as important.
That crowning horror for a bouquet, a paper
frill, is often demanded by people who surely
ought to know better, and it is of no earthly use
for the florist to protest against it. Again one
would surely think it time that lettering on de-
signs was done away with, but it seems in demand
as much as ever, out of large cities, and indeed
city florists are called on to do a good deal of it,
except those whose trade is only among people
of exclusive taste. Among out-of-town florists,
the pillow is the design most called for, and
almost invariably people want it disfigured by
letters.
A beautiful funeral wreath recently seen was
entirely made of loosely arranged pale purple
Heliotrope, with a knot of Perle Roses at one
side. Next to the plaque or pall, the most beau-
tiful design for laying on the eoflin is a flat bou-
quet about three feet long, made of Roses and
other flne flowers laid on a back ground of Ferns
and Palm-leaves. It is tied together with a sash
of white ribbon.
Emilt Locise Taplis.
38
POPULAR GARDENING.
November,
FROM
TOE
SOCIETIES
EIWHATrERThAT DbiilrveS
TO aEVnOELYKMOW^
Salway Peach, yalway
'ripening a little later than
Smock is a good free-stone.
-E. A.Rhii'L
Go to the Meetings. The
farmers of this country do
not talk enough.— Jttciflc G.
Barltcr.
Size of Fruit Farm. Twenty-five acres is too
much for any man to own who grows small
fruits.— A'. E. Dodye.
The winter exhibit of the Illinois State Hor-
ticultural Society will be held in Hamilton, Ills.,
December, 10, 11 and 12.
Niagara Orape was seriously criticised by
members of the Michigan Horticultural Society
as not hardy, and subject to rot and mildew.
Sign of Eeflnement. As a general thing, you
won't see the rough element of the human fam-
ily taking to auwers.—HonieHsviUe Farmer's
Cluh.
Co-operation, rhautauqua Horticultural So-
ciety is in favor of a combination among growers
to avoid e.tcessivc shipments to a market already
over-loaded.
The Hog Market. We have a lot of poor
Apples this year, and they are falling very badly.
So we have turned the hogs in the orchard, thus
securing the best market for the poor stuff we
can get.— roi. JWi7cs, .4/(0)1 South Ith. Hoii. Sue.
The Annual Chrysanthemum Show of the
Hampden County (Mass.) Horticultural Society
will be held In Springfield, November Uth to llith.
It is expected to be the largest e.\hibit of the
" Queen of Autumn" ever held in the state west
of Boston.— IT. F. Gale.
Cling Stone Peaches. They sell ,iust about as
well as frcc-stoncs it properly handled. They
grow better, handle better, ship better, and are
always lietter flavored. After people learn how
to get them off the stones, they prefer them.—
B. A. Riehl. AViin Suuthern Illi. Hint. Saeiety.
A Chrysanthemum and Fall Floral Show will
be held in Charleston, S. C, on November 5, 6, 7
and 8th. Mr. P. J. Berckmans, Pres. Am. Pom.
Society, will be the sole .iudge. A great number
of exhibits are expected, and premium list in-
cludes an award of $25 and certificate for best
display of 24 varieties, three each, of cut flowers.
E. B. Hiilllntis.
Best Raspberries and Blackberries. Among
varieties of Raspberries Mr. Soott tfild the mem-
bers of Michigan Horticultural Society that he
finds none better for Michigan than Souhegan
or Tyler for early, and Gregg for late ; for red.
Hansel! or Marlboro tor early and Cuthbert for
late. Of Blackberries, he would only recom-
mend the Taylor and Snyder.
Culture for Peaches. Mr. McCreery reports
that many trees, especially on rich soil, ha\e no
Peaches on. On top of the hill where the land
is so poor that he could not raise white Beans,
the trees are full. He gave the trees thorough
cultivation and Peaches will be very large. H.
Markhara said : Early varieties like Amsden's
June and Alexander are full; later varieties,
none. Wanlitenaw ( AficJi.i Pom. Soektjj.
Love of Flowers. Show me a man who is fond
of flowers, one who is ready to make some little
sacrifice that his wife may indulge her fancy,
and I will show you an enchanted home, and a
kind, loving, tender father, whose sympathies
are ever open to the wants of those entrusted to
his care. 1 will show you cultured sons as well
as daughters, and almost without an exception,
a harmonious family.— Mrs. S. M. Livermiire,
Mo. Hort. Soe-et}!.
Varieties of Currants. On soils inclined to be
sandy the Red Dutch is the best, on heavy soil
Red butch, Stewart, White Grape, Long Bunch
Holland and Black Naples. On heavy soil the
Long Bunch Holland lives the longest, makes
the largest bush and bears the most fruit of any
variety I have ever seen. It retains its foliage
all through our hot dry summers, and frequently
holds its fruit till September. It is very valuable
on that account. It needs more room than any
other variety and they should be set five feet in
the row by six feet between rows.— iV. F. Brand,
Minn. Hort. Society.
Potato Hot. Mr. C. M. Weed stated before the
Society for the Promotion of Agricultural Sci-
ence that an experiment in preventing the in-
juries of Potato rot have lead to the following
provisional conclusions : 1. That a large pro-
portion of the injury done by Potato rot can be
prevented by spraying the vines with the Bor-
deaux mixture. 2. That the treatment appar-
ently diminishes the amount of scab affecting the
tubers. 3. That adding London purple to the
mixture, the same treatment may be made effec-
tive in preventing the injuries of both the rot
and Colorado Potato beetle.
Ornamental Planting. Children should be
taught the importance and methods of orna-
mental planting Before I was eight years old I
was interested in gardening and tree planting.
The cost need not deter any one, as there are few
communities where trees and plants and flowers
can not be procured for digging. An old gentle-
man who had handsomely ornamented his
grounds, sold for a high price and built a modest
house near by. When asked if he did not regret
the change, he replied that he did not, for he
could enjoy the trees he had planted fifty years
ago and nurtured for almost a lifetime, just as
well as before.— Hon. J. M. Pearson, Ills. State
Hort. Soeiety.
Soil for Grapes. For soil a deep, warm, sandy
loam which will give the earliest start in spring
and make a moderate growth of well-ripened
sound wood is better than a richer muck or
colder clay in this climate for we need all the
warmth we can secure in our short summers to
develop the fruit and bring the growing vine to
perfect maturity. A stiff clay with proper expo-
sure is better than muck, while limestone is quite
desirable. To prepare for planting, plow deep
and fine. If the soil is poor and you desire to
fertilize it, employ ground bone or wood ashes
for that purpose ; stable manure will promote a
rank growth of wood and late unripe fruit to be
killed by the first frosts of autumn, to the great
injury of both root and vine.— /I. N Wilcox,
Minn Hurt. Sociilij.
Hybrid Perpetual Boses. 1 should never start
them into growth in this locality before the
middle of December. Start them very slowly
when commencing to force them. A tempera-
ture of forty is i)lent.v for the first two weeks,
then as they break into growth steadily increase
the heat. Started too warm they will make rapid
growth, but scarcely any flowers, not having
time to develop their flower buds. The \'arieties
that are generally grown for forcing in the dull
season, are the following: American Beauty,
Catherine Mermet, The Bride, Perle des Jardins,
La France, Niphetos,W. F. Bennett, Sunset, Mme.
Cusin, Souvenir d'un Ami, Papa Gontier, etc.
Of these I consider Catherine Mermet, Perle des
Jardins, and La France the cream. The latter
Rose leaves nothing to be desired in color, size
and fragrance. - George Savaae,hefore tlieWc^tem
New York Horticnltural Society.
Orcharding ifor Profit. I am satisfied that we
can quite easily overcome all the attacks of in-
sects by taking the matter in time. The great
cause of failure is that we don't commence soon
enough. 1 think it is impossible to o\erdo or-
charding from the fact that the demand for fruit
increases at a great deal more rapid rate than it
is possible for us to increase our orchards. Some
years ago when I first began to take an interest
in Apple culture, we thought a dollar a barrel
for Apples was an enormous, an extravagant
price and that there was nothing we could grow
on the farm that would pay so well as Apples at
half-a-dollar a barrel. Now we are not satisfied
with two dollars a barrel. 1 don't see that we
should be afraid of the future. ^ s to the or-
chard, I say plant as many trees as you can take
care of, and then stop.— iVfi'. DcmpseiJ, before the
Untario Fruit Groieer:^' As.^oeiation.
Buying a Place for Market Gardening. 1 had
a hankering tor the soil again. One day I rode
by the old Whittemore place. I had my boy
with me. Thei'C was a red flag out. He saw it
and knew what it meant. We had talked at
home about buying a farm. He said, " Papa,
buy a farm." I alighted and looked it over. I
never saw such a magnificent croi> of weeds. It
was the roughest looking place 1 ever saw. I
made up my mind that land that would bear
such fine weeds would bear other croi)s it it had
a chance. 1 went in, made one offer and got the
farm. The buildings were worth nothing. That
was in 1878. Well, we raked the chickweed to-
gether. In some places it was six or eight inches
high. There were places that we could not get
on with man or beast, and the frogs had it all
their own way. Alders and such growth were
there. Some of this land was among the best on
the farm. I tile-drained it. About that time re-
tired from business and went out there myself,
attending to it faithfully. I found it would
raise good crops as 1 expected. In three or four
years that old place paid me better than any
other investment 1 ever ma.de.- Mr. Moore before
the Ma»s. Hort- Society.
The Grape Cure. At the last Horticultural
'Convention several persons were present who
had been under treatment at establishments on
the Rhine, all of whom concurred in the state-
ment that their health had been substantially
improved by the treatment. Only the most
thoroughly ripe black Grapes were used. These
were taken at inter\als during the day, the
quantity being gradually increased until the i)a-
tient consumed from three to five pounds a day.
The seeds and skins were avoided, and a little
meat was taken daily to strengthen the system.
In another case cited the skins and seeds were
swallowed with the pulp; in another they were
chewed to obtain their chemical qualities, but
were not swallowed. At one establishment the
juice was pressed each day from selected Grapes,
which while being kept were suspended in the
air. The juice was pressed from the Grapes in
the presence of the patient, and was adminis-
tered in doses, graduated from a spoonful up to
much larger quantity, as the patient was
strengthened. The Grape cure is most efficient
in liver and kindred complaints. The opinion
was expressed by the convention that Grape-
cure establishments would be an attractive fea-
ture if established in ('alifiunia, and would be
remunerative to the projectors, but the fact was
emphasized that exercise, pleasant surroundings,
and pure air were necessary accom|ianiments if
the best results were to be obtained.
The Origin of the Florist's Carnation.
(E.rtract of Paper by ."^Utirti'i/ Hibbcrd. reatl before
th^ English Ciirnatinn and Picotee'.^ Society's .Slioir.)
The wild forms of Dianthus that might
by any possibility be regardei,! as the pa-
rents of the Carnation are three In number
only : The Sweet William may be regarded
as the garden form of Dianthus barbatiis,
the Pink may be an improved edition of
Dianthus phimarius, and the Carnation
differs in no essential particulars from the
wild form of Dianthus earyophyllus, though
larger, fuller, richer, and immensely various
in coloring. In its general character it
stands distinctly apart from D. barbatus
and D. plumariiis as free from any taint of
other blood.
The wild Carnation is registered as occurring
at Rochester, Deal, Norwich. Rouen, and places
thence southward to the Mediterranean. D.
caryopbyllus is constant in its characters and it
never produced Pinks or Sweet Williams, how-
ever degenerate the seed might be, while as to
time of flowering, it did not usually flower im-
til the Pinks and Sweet Williams had finished
their season, a sulficient reason for their so sel-
dom appearing side by side in e.\hibitions. We
have mule Pinks but n(> mule Carnations ; all the
several forms of the flower, whether (.'loves.
Show flowers. Fancies, or "tree" Carnations,
were true to the leading characters of the
species, the limits of variation being ai)parently
sharply defined by Nature.
As to the age of this flower we have a pretty
clear history of it for 3(10 years, but it is more
likely to be a thousand than 300 years old as a
garden flower. Turner in 1550 spoke of it as less
the child of Nature than the product of the
labor and wit of man, a statement that certainly
suggests that long ere Turner's time the florists
had operated on the flower and made it beauti-
ful and popular. The Carnation was valued by
the ancients tor the flavoring of beverages, and
this consideration gives a clue to the meaning of
the assertitm of Pliny in his xxv. book, that the
cantabrica was obtained by the Romans from
Spain in the days of -Augustus, who entered on
the consulship on January 1st, B.C. 33, which
carries back the history of the flower as nearly
as need be to 2000 years. When Gerard published
in 151)0, Carnations were identiful in gardens, and
he records obtaining a yellow variety from Po-
land through the kindness of a friend. Lately 1
have submitted to certain friends a list of .'J20
varieties of Carnations that were conspicuous
in prize lists in the year 18S2, and these friends
1889.
POPULAR GARDENING.
39
declare there is not one i>f them in cultivation
at the i>resent time : and yet the improvement,
or say ultci-ation, of the tlower is accomplished
but slowly. The \ttrieties floured by Parkinson
show how in his time the strii)es were passing
outward to the edge to form the Picotec ; and
the bizarre farnation, figured in the " Botanieal
Magi»zine " in the year 178j<, is such high ijiialit.v
that it might be put on the show table to-day
with a fair chance of winning, proving that lUO
years of work do not greatly affect the flower as
reganls its technical qualities, a fact strikingly
illustrative of its possible high antiquity ; and
yet through the long period of its occupancy of
the garden we have no evidence that at any time
it has deviated in any degree from its typical
characters as to suggest hybridization. AH the
varieties we hear of and see appear to be gen-
uine representatives of Dianthus caryophyllus
alone. They are varieties i-esulting from cross-
breeding, without the aid of other blood ; true
hybrids of the Camatiou may be said to be un-
known.
Notes on the Newer Plums.
iExtrart of Paprr read by S. D. Wittard, be/ore the
American yurserynwjt^s Association .)
The annoyance to which the Plum grower
has been subjected by reason of its caprici-
ous habits and the depredations of insect
life has caused this valuable fruit to have
been, until recent years, more or less neg-
lected, while attention has been bestowed
more lavishly upon the other fruits, but
with the advent of " The Wild Goose " a
new impetus seems to have been given to
the development of new varieties of Plums,
and the results have been satisfactory and
profitable, with the probability that in the
near future the growing ot Plums for mar-
ket may become one of the great industries
of the country.
Downing tells us of three species of Wild
Plums indigenous to this country— the Chickasaw
Plum, the Red or Yellow Plum, and the Beach
Plum, while a fourth, which has become natur-
alized in this country, had it sparentage in Asia,
and has given us many valuable seedlings that
are grown with a remarkable degree of success
to-day over a large portion of our country, it is
of this species mainly that I shall speak, while at
the same time I would not ignore the value of
those sorts having their parentage from our Wild
Plum that seem especially adapted to sections
where the Euroj>ean varieties do not succeed.
Of some of the new varieties tested within the
past few years we have found the following good
enough to deserve notice:
The Field. Much like Bradshaw ripening a
little earlier; very productive. Inclined to bear
early; origin Schoharie County, New York.
Stanton's Seedling. Fruit medium size; color,
dark purple, with a beautiful bloom; verj- pro-
ductive; ripens from September 15th to Octot)er
1st, and has been kept two weeks after ripening,
with no tendency to decay As a fine canning
fruit it has no superior, and has fine quality as a
table fruit.
Prince of fVaJe^. A variety imported from
England several years since; intensely produc-
tive; large, skin reddish-purple and thick bloom;
flesh greenish-yellow; very attractive and sells
well, though not of the highest quality.
Middleburg. Fruit medium to large, dull cop-
per color; in shape and in keeping qualities much
resembling the Prune, keeping a long time with-
out tendency to decay; hardy, and ripening about
September 15th; a promising market variety.
Shipper's Pride. Tree very hardy; productive;
origin. Cayuga County, New York; promises to
be valuable for market.
Gtieii. Fruit very large, deep bluish-purple,
covered with thick bloom; flesh yellowish-green,
coarse, sweet and pleasant; great bearer and very
early; tree a hardy and rapid grower. This new
variety is regarded as very valuable for market
by growers along the Hudson river. Vigorous
grower. First to middle of September. One of
the l)est for a dark colored market Plum.
Hudson River Purple Egg. A large, dark, pur-
ple fruit; considered very valuable as a market
variety, in some localities on the Hudson river.
A fine grower and productive. September, and
will be more sought after when better known.
Peters' Yellow Gage. This valuable variety, we
think, was introduced by Ellwanger & Barry,
quite a long time since, and yet for some reason
has never been 'generally grown and recognized.
Fruit large, nearly oval, bright inarbleil yellow;
flesh rich and juicy, quality ver.v good and very
productive. I have often thought that if eon-
flne<l to one yellow Plum this would be my choice.
I'nnada Orleana. This variety has been grown
some years in the vicinity of Hamilton, Ontario.
Fruit medium to large, skin reddish-jiurple, cov-
ered wiih a blue bloom; flesh yellow, juicy, melt-
ing, very sweet and rich; ripens early in August,
and handles well.
With a growing demand for Damsons in all
markets, considerable attention has been given
them. As a class they are hardy and productive.
French Damson has much to commend it. Tree
a much better grower than Shropshire or Blue
Damson. Very hardy and an annual bearer;
very productive; fruit medium; dark copper
color, with rich bloom, and the liest Damson for
market purposes we have ever fruited; ripens
about two weeks later than Shropshire.
Shropshire Damson. A Plum of fine quality,
as free from the attacks of curcuUo as the Com-
mon Damson, and of same color. The flesh is
amber colored, juicy and sprightly. In market
it has commanded nearly double the price of the
Common Damson, and is enormously productive.
Last of September
Frogmore Dam.^tnn. Fruit small, intensely pro-
ductive, and promises well. Originated in the
Royal Gardens at Frogmore, England.
Farleigh Damson. Another of the same class
from England, which promises well after fruit-
ing several seasons.
The following new varieties are being tested,
each of which promises well and may prove val-
uable acquisitions to our list: Czar, Grand Duke,
Rivers' Early Proliflc, Black Diamond, Mallard,
Bittern, Curlew, Heron, Late Transparent.
Botan and Ogon may have some value. The
fruit is promising in appeai*ance, while the trees
seem hardy.
Kelsey is not sufficiently hard.v for the Middle
States.
Hardy Ornamental Shrubs for Gar-
dens, Lawns and Hedges.
{^Paper read by Jackson Dawson, gardener at the
Arnold Arboretum, before the Xassaehusetts Horticul.
tttral Society. ^ Continued from page 15.
In Rosa, ot the natural species there are many
which are beautiful in their place, and the essay-
ist thought it would become fasionable to have
a garden of single wild Roses when the ground
can be spared. They are seldom much troubled
with insects, and one or two syringings will keeji
them clean for the season, and what with the
flowers in summer and the fruits in autumn and
winter they will repay by their cheerfulness all
trouble. Some of the best native species are
blanda, Aahansana, acicularis, Xuthana. (Mifor-
nica.Fedlerii, lucida, (yaroliniana. nitid^^foliosa,
an(\ sctigera. Of the American varieties, lucida
and nitida are the two best for covering banks
or planting as undergrowth for larger plants.
R. setigera is the wild Michigan Rose, one of the
finest of all the single American Roses, flowering
profusely after all the others are done. This is
the parent of the Queen of the Prairies.
Of the foreign single Roses the best is Rosa
repens, a climbing species growing eight or ten
feet high. R. glauca is a fine species with pink
flowers and showy fruit. R. Alpina is the earl-
iest wild Rose. R. aciciilaris, cinnamomea, dume-
torum, canina, Belgradcnsis, rubige iio.sw and (0-
mcntosa are all good species. R. riihrifolia has
purple foliage, which stands well all summer.
R. arvetvsis and its varieties are all desirable.
In the Scotch Roses we have many fine varieties
of all colors; they have neat foliage and dwarf
habit. A few of the best are fulgens, pencillata,
vennlosa, pimpineUifolia, and vestiilora. Rosa
aWa is a fine species, with good foliage and flow-
ers; it is the parent of several of our good gar-
den Roses.
Rosa pumila, from the Minden Alps, is a dwarf
species with fine large flowers.
Rosa rugosa, and its varieties, such as pink,
crimson and white, are worth a place in any
garden.
Rosa Kamschatica resembles it, but is even
coarser in its habit. The fruit of this and rugosa
are very ornamental.
Rosa multitlora Japonica is very desirable, both
in flower and fruit.
<)i Pyiiis the varieties of arbiifi/o'"! are very
ornamental; puhens, serotina, grandifiora, me-
elmwcarpa and erythroearpa are all worthy of
cultivation. The fruit is brown or black, and
ripens during the latter part of the summer, ex-
cepting that of ei'ythrocarpa which is brilliant
i-ed, does not ripen until the autumn, and hangs
on to the plant well into winter. P. siiectahilis,
prunifoUa, tiaecata, Parkmanni, Ringo, florihun-
da and malus llore pleno are all showy plants.
I'lrriis Japonica has been improved so that
many varieties can now be had— single red,
white, carmine, rose and other shades, besides
several semi-double varieties. One of the finest
dwarfs of late introduction is P. JapoHica Maulei
which seldom exceeds two feet in height, and is
more floriferous than an.v ot the other varieties.
Cotoneaster imlgari.", C. acutifoHo and C. to-
mentosa might be termed perfectly hardy. The
flowers of this genus are not as showy as those
of some others, but the fruits are very ornamen-
tal and last almost all the season.
A II the Shad bushes ( Amelanchier) are hardy,
the.v are the earliest of spring-flowering shrubs.
They vary in size from about a foot to twenty
or thirty feet high. The flowers are white and
the fruit is edible. The species are Asiatica,al-
nifolia, alpina, ndgaris aod Canadensis. In the
Canadensis section there are a number of well-
marked varieties. The variety oblongifolia, from
the White Mountains, is the earliest of all, and
has edible fruit. Variety rotimdifolai. has
round leaves, and in the species raiiajidf nsis the
leaves are of a red color when beginning to open.
Among the Hydrangeas there are some species
that might be termed perfectly hardy; these are
radiata, arhorescens, paHicu/afa, and its variety
grand'ftora. and restita and vestita imhescetis.
rf.<(i(a and its variety are the earliest to bloom:
and are followed by radiala, arbore.scen.s, panicu-
lata and paniculata grandijiora, so that we can
have them in bloom from June until September.
H. scandei^, the climbing Hydrangea, is a good
addition to our hard.v shrubs.
Of the Deutzias we have gracilis and parviilora,
the latter a new species from Japan, with white
flowers a few daj-s earlier than gracilis.
Among the Mock Oranges there are many
good hardy flowei-s. Some of them are Phila-
detithuslatifolius magnificus, a fine \ariet.v, with
large white flowers; nivalis, pearly white; grand-
itlorus, a fine large late variety; Zcijheri, with
flowei-s not much larger than Deutzias; Oordon-
niaas, a fine late American species; microphallus
a miniature species from Colorado; speciosus, a
fine variety; nivalis, a very pure white; Colum-
bianus, a fine intermediate-flowered species, and
coronarius and its \arieties. The grand'florus
section is the latest.
Grape Rotand Flea Beetle Remedies.
{From proceedings of Tenth Animal Meeting of the
Society for the Promotion of Agricultural Science,
held at Toronto, Can.^
Black Rot of the Grape. A paper treating
on this subject was presented by Prof. F. L.
Scribner, who reports that the experiments
with this dread disease this year were con-
ducted in a vineyard ot Concords, located in
good soil and with an admirable exposure.
Last year more than !«; per cent of the crop
was destroyed by rot. The vineyard was
therefore thoroughly infected with the dis-
ease. The preparations used were the Bor-
deaux mixture (8 lbs. sulphate of copper,
and 10 lbs. lime to 25 gallons of water) and
the commercial solution of carbonate of cop-
per (5 ounces of the carbonate and one cjuart
of ammonia to 22 gallons of water). Five
applications were made, the same vines be-
ing treated with the same preparation. The
weather during the present season in the
vicinity of Knoxville, has been most favora-
ble for the development of black rot. In
June, during the most critical period, there
were daily showers preceded by a very hot
sun and preceded by cold nights with heavy
dews. Fungi of all kinds flourished, and
Grapes were severely attacked by the rot.
Under these circumstances the remedies em-
ployed for preventing the disease were put to
the severest test, especially when such var-
ieties as the Concord and Cataba were the
subjects treated. The two preparations
named above were first applied April 3d,
when the young shoots were from 4 to 12
inches long. The other applications were
made at intervals utnil June 22d. The leaf
spot disease, or black rot on the foliage, be-
gan to appear Slay 9, and very soon it became
quite general throughout the vine.
40
POPULAR GARDENING.
November,
The results of the experiment are strongly in
favor of the applications made. The value of
the Bordeaux mixture is maintained, and the
ammoniacal solution of carbonate of copper is
equally efficacious. No difference in the effects
of these two compounds could be seen. The
treated vines have lost about a third of what
might be estimated as a full crop, or of what
would have matured had it not been for the rot,
while the loss on the untreated rinesis practic-
ally complete, there being not more than four
to five per cent, of the berries left unaffected.
The Flea Beetle. Prof. a. J. Cook tells of his
having made a large number of experiments this
season in order to ascertain what remedies are
most efficient in destroying the flea beetles
which have recently become so destructive to
some of the most important crops of the garden-
er and fruit grower. For the Grape flea beetle
he finds nothing better than the London purple,
used at the rate of one pound to three hundred
gallons of water, and thrown on in a spray. It
should be applied just as soon as the beetles ap-
pear in spring, before the leaves put out. The
past season we tested ten different insecticides
both on the Radish flea beetle and on the Cucum-
ber flea beetle. This latter is the species that
has proved so destructive to the Potatoes in some
localities. Two remedies seemed effective. The
first is ashes. These were tried both with and
without London purple and it could not be seen
that the poison was of any value. The ashes ap-
peared to drive the beetles away, but they had
to be used very plentifully. In some cases the
ashes did considerable injury to the plants. The
other remedy, and a better one, was a strong de-
coction of tobacco dust which was secured at
the factory at a very slight expense. A decoc-
tion was made by pouring two gallons of hot
water on a pound of the dust. This was applied
to the plants with a force pump. In every case
the beetles were driven off and no harm came to
the plants. This decoction was used on Cab-
bages and Radishes for the striated beetles, and
on Potatoes for the Cucumber beetle. In both
cases the results were favorable. Although the
experience of one season is not entirely conclu-
sive. Prof Cook feels very hopeful of this reme-
dy. He urges others to try it so that its merits
may be definitely known.
American Florists in Convention at
Buffalo. Valuable papers.
Horticultural Exhibitions. Mr. Edwin
Lonsdale tells of one of the most primitive
exhibitions, held in Philidelphia In .July of
this year. The Workingmen's Club in early
spring distributed among its members a
paper of seed each of Alyssum and Ph'ox,
and one plant each of Fuchsia and Zonale
Pelargonium. A few premiums for best re-
sults with these seeds and plants were
offered, and awarded. There w;is nothing
pretentious about this, but the benefits
which come from this movement, can hardly
be overestimated. The example should be
followed in other places.
The only flower show which could boast to be
a real financial success,was the one held recently
in Detroit under the auspices of a daily paper.
The secret of success was judicious advertising.
The interest in a contest seems to be universal,
and a show if properly advertised and written
up intelligently would be crowded. Reporters
of the daily papere as a rule have no knowledge
of the subject they are talking about. Until re-
cently we have had no florists' paper. The
press should give preliminary notice of the do-
ings of the contestants.
A show should be a local event. But people in
all large cities would be willing to offer prizes
for special features if the matter was only prop-
erly brought to their notice. All exhibits should
be mentioned, no matter how small, to encourage
the beginners, and induce them to continue this
work. Special e.vhibitions have made the Chrys-
anthemum what it is to-day, and what hjis been
done with the Chrysanthemum might be done
with most other classes of flowers.
In the discussion following this paper the pres-
ident-elect, Mr Jordan, speaks of the influence
of the press. Pajiers are anxious to report cor-
rectly. He notices that the St. Louis dailies pay
now a got)d deal of attention to floriculture.
Perhaps there may have been a lack of energy
shown in exhibitions. Two annual shows are
held in St. Louis, and they are not only a success
simply, but a paying success. Unity of action
will accomplish wonders. All exhibitions should
be complete in ever3' way before people are
allowed admission; otherwise they may find
chaos, and go away and tell others " it is no good."
Mr. Grant complains that the reporters can
hardly e\ er find anybody who knows anything
and can tell them the good jjoints about the ex-
hibit and the things exhibited. There is a good
impartial man wanted just for giving such in-
formation at the shows; but all such men are
usually tied up in committee work, and have not
a minute to spare.
Mr. Preston recommends that names should
not be attached to exhibits until after the awards
are made. Human natureshould not be tempted.
Mr. Carmody says children ought to be educated
for making exhibits in school rooms. Young
people might have a Pansy show for instance.
Heat Application. The subject of " Making
and Applying Heat in our Greenhouses," was
ably handled by president-elect Jordan. The
problem is to get the maximum of heat from
coal. The objection urged against many of the
boilers is that they absorb too much heat. It too
little of it goes into the chimney, the needed
drought is lacking, and the combustion is incom-
plete. Oxygen is the supporter of combustion,
but the latter can take place only in a high de-
gree of heat— the higher the better. The result
of incomplete combustion is carbonic oxide, and
2400 degrees of heat; the result of complete
combustion is carbonic acid gi\ing 4K00 de-
grees of heat. More coal is usually in the fire
place than can combine \vith the oxygen to
carbonic acid, and consequently the oxide is
formed above the fire. This oxide is combustible,
but as no more oxygen can come to it to com-
plete the combustion, it goes through the chim-
ney, and a large share of the heat is lost.
For best results the coal must be brought to
the fire place in a magazine, and there should be
means for the control and admission of air both
below and above the fire. Perfect combustion
needs great heat, and the coal should be in a com-
pact mass.
Soft coal requires different treatment from
coke, etc. For the former, one-third of the air
should be admitted from below the fire, and two-
thirds just above; for hard coal and coke one-
half of the air should come from each way.
Another principle often lost sight of is that the
intensest heat should often be applied to the top
of the boiler, where the water is hottest already.
This will bring the steam without commotion.
If the intensest heat is applied from below, the
whole body of water has to be heated, and steam
rising from the bottom causes a great commotion.
Natural Habitat of Orchids. Mr. Foster-
mann tells the native places of the leading var-
ieties. He also prophesies that there is a time
coming when Orchids are to be much more freely
imported than now, and become almost common,
and perhaps be quoted in catalogues with Rose.
Wrought Iron Boilers. How to treat them
when not in use, is what Mr. Hunt of Indiana is
asked to tell. They are usually left to care for
themselves, he says. One person advocates to
empty them and let them remain dry. .iVnother
prefers to keep them full. Another removes the
doors, grates, flues, etc,, and provides for a free
circulation of air. Most of the boilers are always
exposed to injurious dampness. Mr, Hunt him-
self keeps the boilers full of water, removes rust,
gives circulation of air. next a dressing of crude
oil, and then shuts off air circulation. If bond's
are old they should be carefully inspected.
HE.4TINO With Petroleum. Charles R. Mitch-
ell tells his experience in the use of petroleum.
Has used it and is quite satisfied with it, but does
not advise that it be generally tried. It cannot
be used with hot water except where there is a
high pressure boileras auxiliary. This is also the
case with steam. A high iiressure boiler is
needed as au.xiliary. One hundred and twenty
gallons of crude oil are about equal in heating
capacity to one ton of coal. An iron tank is re-
quired for holding oil, and a wagon with iron
tank to haul it. If oil can be had easily and
cheaply, and the establishment is very large, it
may be cheaper and more convenient than coal.
Horticulture at the New York State
Fair at Albany.
As usual there were many and fine ex-
hibits of fruits and flowers. The following
is a list of the awards:
Fruits.— PnoFESsiONAL List.
Pears. Collection of not less than 25 varieties,
five specimens of each; ; EUwanger & Barry,
Rochester, first prize, $15. Collection of 30 varie-
ties, five specimens of each; EUwanger & Barry,
Rochester, first prize, §10. Collection of 10 varie-
ties, five specimens of each; EUwanger & Barry,
Rochester, first prize, S.5.
Plums. Collection of not lessthan 10 varieties,
10 specimens of each; EUwanger & Barry, Roches-
ter, first prize, S3, Collection of five varieties, 10
specimens of each; EUwanger & Barry, Roches-
ter, flrst prize, 83. Uish of any one variety, 10
specimens; EUwanger & Barry, Rochester, flrst
prize, $2.
Quinces. Dish 10 specimens, Rea's; EUwanger
cSc Barry, Rochester, first prize, Sa.
Native Grapes. Grown in the open air. Col-
lection of five varieties, five specimens of each;
Isaac Van AUen, Bethlehem Centre, first prize, $5.
Fruits.— Amateur's List.
Apples. Collection of 20 varieties, five speci-
mens of each; C. V. Baker. Cedar HUl, fiist prize,
810. Collection of 10 varieties, five specimens of
each; C. V. Baker, Cedar HUl, first prize, 85. Col-
lection of five varieties, five specimens of each;
C. V. Baker, Cedar Hill, first prize, $3. H. W.
Hotaling. Delmar, second prize, 82
Pears. Collection of 10 varieties, five speci-
mens of each; C. V. Baker, Cedar Hill, first prize,
83. M. E, Myers, Charlton, second prize, S3. Col-
lection of five varieties, five specimens of each;
C. V. Baker, Cedar Hill, first prize, $3. M. E.
Myei'S, Charlton, second prize, $2.
Peaches. Dish of any one variety, 10 speci-
mens; J. G. Leavens, Melrose, first prize, 82.
J. H. Schoonmaker, Bethlehem, second prize, 81.
Plums. Collection of five varieties, 10 speci-
mens of each; David Ledzy, Bethlehem Centre;
flrst prize, $5. Three varieties, 10 specimens of
each; J. H, Schoonmaker, Bethlehem, first prize,
83. Isaac Van Allen, Bethlehem, second prize,
82. Dish of 10 specimens; Isaac Van Allen, Beth-
lehem Centre, first prize, $1.
Quinces. Dish of 10 specimens; O. H. Jacques,
Wrights Corners, first prize, 82. J. S. Hannon,
Chatham, second prize, §1.
Native Grapes. Grown in the open air. Col-
lection of five varieties, three bunches of each;
Isaac Van Allen, Bethlehem Centre, first prize, $3.
Fruits.— Single Dishes.
Apples. Baldwin, 12 specimens; C. V. Baker,
Cedar HUl, 82. Esophus Spitzenberg, 12 speci-
mens; C. V. Baker, Cedar Hill, $2. Holland Pip-
pin, 12 specimens; Isaac Van Allen, Bethlehem
Centre, $2. Gravenstein, 12 specimens; J. O.
JosUn, Fiashoke, $2. King of Tompkins County,
12specimens; H. W. Hotaling. Delmar, 82. North-
ern Spy, 12 specimens; C. V. Baker, Cedar HiU,
82. Red Canada, 12 specimens; H. W. Hotaling,
Delmar, 82. Rhode Island Greening, 12 speci-
mens; J. O. Joslin, Fiashoke, 82. Koxbury Rus-
set, le specimens: C. A. Bradt, Castile, 82. Twenty
Ounce, 12 specimens; C. V. Baker, Cedar Hill, 82.
Pears. Bartlett, 12 specimens; Geo. T. Powell,
Ghent, 82. Boussock, 12 specimens; Miss E. L.
Dorr, Albany, 82. Bosc, 12 specimens; Wm. G.
Sickles, Stuyvessant, $2. Clairgeau, 12 specimens,
J. T. Lansing, Greenbush, $2, D'Anjou, 12 speci-
mens; Geo. T. Powell, Ghent, $2. D'Angouleme,
12 specimens; EUwanger & Barry, Rochester, 82.
Flemish Beauty, 22 specimens; Zerah Rider,
Cambridge, 82. Lawrence, 12 specimens; Miss
B. L. Dorr, Albany, 82. Seckel, 12 specimens;
Geo T. Powell, Ghent, 82. Sheldon, 12 specimens;
C. V. Baker, Cedar HUl, 82. Winter Nelis, Miss
E. L. Dorr, Albany, §2.
Grapes. Brighton, six bunches; Geo. T. Pow-
ell, Ghent, 82. Concord, si.K bunches; Miss E. L.
Dorr, Albany, 82. Delaware, si.\ bunches; Miss
E. L. Dorr, Albany, $2. Niagara, J. S. Lansing,
Greenbush, 82. Worden, six bunches; Geo. T
PoweU, Ghent 82.00.
Flowers.— Professional List.
Cut Flowers. General Collection; Louis Men-
aud, Albany, first prize, $20. James Vick, Roches-
ter, special first prize, 820.
Dahlias. Collection; James Vick, Rochester,
first prize, 810. Louis Menaud, Albany, second
prize, 85. 12 dissimilar blossoms with names;
James Vick, Rochester, first prize, 85. American
Seedling not before exhibited; James Vick;
Rochester, 85.
Phloxes. Collection of annual Phlo.xes, Jas.
Vick, Rochester, flrst prize, 810. 12 named varie-
ties, perennial; Jas. Vick, Rochester, fli"st prize,
83. Seedling not before shown ; Jas. Vick, 81.
Verbenas. Collection; Jas. Vick, Rochester,
fii-st prize, 810. 12 named varieties; James Vick^
Rochester, first prize, 83. American seedling not
before exhibited; Jas. Vick, Rochester, 82.
1889.
POPULAR GARDENING.
41
ASTEUS. Ciilloition: Jas. Viok, first i>ri/.e, S3.
Celosias. Collection; Mrs. W. G. Haviluiid,
West Hoosick. first prize, S3. Jas. Vick, Kochcs-
tcr, seconil prize, S2.
CoLErs. T. S. Strickler, West Troy, first prize,
S3.
PAXsrES. Collection; Jas. Vick, Hochester,
second prize, ?:t.
G LADiOLrs. Collection; Jas. Vick, Kochestcr,
fii-st prize, fS. 1- varieties; Jas. Vick, Kochestcr,
first prize, $3.
GERANTCM.S. Largest and best displaj- of named
varieties: Lewis Menaud, Albany, first prize, $10.
Jas. Vick, Kochestcr, second prize, io.
Cut Flowers.— Amateur List.
General Collectios. E. Van Allen, Beth-
lehem Centre, first prize, $10. Mr. W. G. Havi-
land. West Hoosick, second prize, $.5.
Dahlias. Collection of Dahlias named; O. H.
Jaeciues, Wright's Coi-aers, first prize, S"- O. H.
Jacques, Wright's Corners, second prize, §3. 12
dissimilar blooms mimed; O. H.Jacques, Wright's
Corners, first prize, J3. O. H. Jacques, Wright's
Corners, second prize. S2. Six dissimiliar blooms
named; O. H. Jacques, Wright's Comers, first
prize, S2. O. H. Jacques. Wright's Corners, sec-
ond prize. SI.
Verbexas. Collection of Verbenas named; E.
Van Allen, Bethlehem Centre, first prize, $5. A.
Stowe, Stanwix, second prize, S3. 12 distinct
varieties named; A. Stowe, Stanwlx, first prize,
S.f. Six varieties named; A. Stowe, Stanwix,
first prize, S2.
Phloxes. Collection of annual Phloxes; E.
Van Allen, Bethlehem Centre, first prize. So. A.
Stowe, Stanwix, second prize, S3. Perennial
Phloxes, six varieties named; E. Van Allen, Beth-
lehem Centre, first prize, S2.
Asters. E. Van Allen, Bethlehem Centre,
first prize, S3. A. Stowe, Stanwix, 2d piize, S2.
Passies. Mrs. W. G. Haviland, West Hoosick,
first prize, S3. A. Stowe, Stanwix, 2d prize, S2.
Ten Week Stocks. Collection; A. Stowe,
Stanwix, first prize, S3.
Gladiolus. Collection; Howard Bros„Roches-
ter, first prize, $5. A. Stowe, Stanwix. second
prize, i3.
Everlasting Flowers. Collection; Mrs. W.
G. Haviland, West Hoosick, first prize, $3.
Greenhouse and Stove Plants. General
collection; Louis Menaud, Albany, first prize, t30.
Group of Palms. Louis Menaud, Albany, first
prize, 810.
Group of Ferns. Louis Menaud, Albany,
first prize, SIO.
Zonal Pei.argoniums. Best collection in pots;
Louis Menaud, Albany, first price, SIO. One
Zonale Pelargonium (single); Louis Menaud, Al-
bany, J2.
Orchids. Best collection; Louis Menaud, Al-
bany, first prize, $20.
BouyiTETS, Floral Designs, Etc. Best display
for funeral purposes; Louis Menaud, Albany, fii-st
prize, S2o. Mrs. W. G. Haviland, West Hoosick,
second prize, $15. Best display, other than for
funeral purposes; Louis Menaud, Albany, first
prize, $23.
CONDENSED GLEANINGS.
The Narcissus Fly, The grub feeds on the
heart of the bulb and checks its root and top
gro^vth, and finally eats it way out near the base.
It may be detected by squeezing the neck of the
in pots for fttrciug into earl.v bloom. The fiy is
hatched in May, and may be caxight by plates of
treacle, around the edges of which a little honey
has Itecii smeared as a bait. The simplest and best
remedy suggested by Dr. Bos is to immerse in
I water all affected bulbs tor eight days before
I planting. The eggs are laid by the fly in May or
I June presumably in the old hollow fiower-stalks,
or at the bases of the leaves at the neck of the
bulb. In July or August, when at latest the
bulbs ought to be potted or planted, the larva' are
small and have done no material
injui-y, and the eight-day bath is
almost certain destruction to the
insect, while doing no harm, but
possibly some little good to the
bulbs.— Gardener's Chronicle.
Orchard Drainage. If you want
! a good orchard you must provide
good drainage. If possible to have
j it without locating the orchard very
■ inconveniently, have good natural
j drainage. Don't believe the men
I tell you that, other things being
] equaj, low ground is better than^
high ground for orchards, it is not.
In not a few cased orchards on low
ground have done better than those
on high ground in the same neigh-
borhood. But this is because the
orchards have not been manured.
Those on the hills have been
starved out the soonest, because for
ages the surface water has been
carrying fertility from the hills to
the lowlands; and this has been in-
creased by the cultivation of the
ground. Hence the food supplies
of the hlUs are soonest exhausted
and the hiU orchards are starved, yet
Frtiit as a Uedicine. Fresh, ripe, perfect, raw
fruit is safe and healthful at all seasons of the
.vear, and amid the ravages of disease. Under
proper restrictions as to quantity, fruits will cure
diarrhcea, aid in removing a colic, cold, fever, or
any other disease whose treatment requires the
bowels to be kept freely open. Fruit should be
eaten ripe, raw, fresh and perfect. It should be
eaten in moderation. It should be eaten no later
than four o'clock in the afternoon. No water or
fluid of any description should be swallowed
THE NARCISSUS FLY iMeroden equestin).
POTATO-SORTING SCREEN.
bulb, and if it feels spongy and soft, the grub is
frequently found inside, a fat dirty yellow thing
nearly half an inch long. We found odd exam-
ples in 18S", and this year they seem more plenti-
ful. It has long been a trouble to the Dutch bulb
growers, from whom presumably it found its
way to our gardens inside imported bulbs. Our
engra\"ing shows this insect in all its stages.
Those who purchase imported Narcissi, or those
of home growth, should test them by feeling the
necks of the doubtful-looking bulbs before
planting. In some cases I believe the existence
and development of this new pest to our gar-
dens has been fostered by the growing of Narcissi
the valley orchards get sufficient nourishment for
good growth. But if you manure the orchard
properly, the high ground will give the better re-
sults. Where natural drainage is not complete,
it will always pay to add artificial drainage. Of
this, underdrainage tUe is the best sort; but in
many cases good surface drainage will suffice,
and this may be got by so plowing that the ridge
is made each time along the row, with the " land-
furrow" midway between the rows.— John M.
Stahl in Indiana Farmer.
Eemoving Copper Sulphate from Grapes. The
Grapes were more or less covered with the Bor-
deaux Mixture, rendering them unfit for market.
Upon trial it was found by adding a small amount
of cider vinegar to the water in which the Grapes
were placed and allowed to remain a few min-
utes, and afterwards rinsing the fruit in water,
the adhering mixture could be entirely removed.
The method pursued in this case was to use one
quart of strong cider vinegar to five gallons of
water. The fruit was placed in wire baskets
which would contain about 20 pounds. By using
two baskets and placing the second in the vine-
gar and water when the first was removed, and
allowing it to remain there while the first basket
of fruit was rinsed twice in water and the Grapes
spread upon evaporated frames or other recept-
acles to dry, then the second basket oiE fruit
would be ready tor rinsing. Acetic acid could be
used if desired instead of the vinegar. The fruit
treated in the above manner was rendered per-
fectly wholesome and merchantable and the ex-
pense is light.— H. M. Beckwith in
Rural N. Y.
Onions in Winter. Red Onions,
yellow ones, and the white or silver-
skins, keep in the order named. All
Onions need is to be retained at a
low, dry, and uniform temperature.
As usually stored in cellars, about
A foot in depth, they gather suffici-
ent moisture to induce root-growth
first; then top-growth; both of which
when continued deprive the Onion of
its solidity, the substance of the Onion being
wasted in the effort to produce root and top. The
higher the temperature the quicker the Onion
spoils. An Onion, will endure 28° of cold with-
out injury. There is a limit to the permanency
of this cold storage, for, as is often the case, the
winter thaws affect them even in the cellar or
haymow. They gather moistiu'e in the thaws of
winter. It does little good to handle them over.
I have kept my Onion crop in barrels after the
tubers were fully cured, putting them into the
cellar not far from December 1st, and leaving
them as thus deposited till wanted for sale.—
N. Y. Tribune.
within an hour after eating fruit. To have its
full beneficial effect, nothingelse should be eaten
at the time fruit is taken. It is to the neglect of
these observances that erroneous impressions
prevail in many families, and to an extent, too,
in some instances, that the most luscious Peach
or .\pple, or bunch of Grapes is regarded as that
much embodied cholera and death.
Potato Sorter, The old method of sorting Po-
tatoes by going over the ground twice, first pick-
ing up only the large ones, may be greatly im-
proved upon and the same or even better results
reached by using the following method: The
Potatoes are all picked up together, large and
small, and taken to the cellar or pit, and by using
a screen, as illustrated herewith, allowing the
Potatoes to roll down an inclined plane, the as-
sorting is completed by the time the Potatoes get
to the bottom — this will sort the sizes better than
a person can do it in the field. The screen is so
simple that directions for making it are unneces-
sary. Hy making the spaces wider in the lower
half, as indicated in the illustration, the result
will be small, medium and large-sized tubers each
in a separate place. When once tried it will be
a necessity thereafter.— Orange Judd Farmer.
Sun for Grapes. From the fact that I not un-
frequently see Grapes growing and ripening in
orchards and gardens where the vines are more
or less in the shade, I am inclined to question the
belief that Grapes need all the sun they can get.
If they need it anywhere, they do in northern
Vermont and in Canada; yet I cannot disco\'er
that a moderate amount of shade retards ripen-
ing at all, except in the case of the Brighton,
which, although a very* early Grape, does not
even color here in dry, hot seasons when Dela-
ware, Salem, Moore's Early and Eumelan ripen.
—Dr. Hoskins in Garden and Forest.
Preserving Fruit for Exhibit. Liverpool salt
is dissolved in clear water until the brine is strong
enough to float the fruit. Let this stand over
night, and then strain through a cloth until the
liquid is perfectly clear. Place the fruit to be
preserved in thoroughly clean wide-mouthed
jars; fill to the brim with the brine and then close
tightly. While this method for a long time per-
fectly preser\'es the bloom and color of the fruit,
it, of course, unfits it for eating. Twigs with the
fruit and foliage attached, when preserved in
this way, are exceedingly attractive for exhibi-
tion purposes.— Pacific Kural Press.
Wanning the Boot Cellar. An oil stove costs
but a few dollars, lasts a life-time and with an
expenditure of a dime for oil its use during a
vei-y cold night may prevent the loss of a season's
crop. Whenever the temperature in the cellar
falls below the freezing point the stove should be
42
POPULAR GARDENING.
November,
placed in the coldest part of the cellar aud light-
ed. In the absence of a stove a few lamps kept
burning during- cold nights are often sufficient
to keep frost out of a small cellar, but half a doz-
en ordinary lamps do not give as much heat as
an ordinary oil stove.— American Agriculturist.
A White Huckleberry. Plants of a so-called
White Huckleberr> (a variety of Gaylui<sacia
rcsinasa) sent to the Arnold Arboretum last year
by Mr. B. W. Westbrook, New Jersey, bore a
small quantity of fruit this season. When ripe
the color is a yellowish-white on the under side,
deepening to a pale crimson on the side exposed
to the sun. As is the case with white' or light-
colored varieties of many other fruits, the ber-
ries are much sweeter than the typical black fruit
which it resembles in size and other respects.—
(larden and Forest.
Managing Cabbage Enemies. A mixture of
salt and ashes thrown about the roots of growing
Cabbages before they were attacked by the in-
sect which causes "clubroot" prevented such
disast-er when begun. This season, as last, I
planted a bed of Radishes alongside the Cabbage
"patch" and allowed it to seed. This attracted
the Cabbage-butterfly away from the Cabbages,
and very few worms bother. When found, a hoe-
ful of earth thrown into a Cabbagehead routs
them out.— Galen Wilson in N. Y. Tribune.
Hydrangea as Cut Flowers. The large white
tiower-cliistei-s of Hydrangea paniculata gi*aiidi-
tlora are now very freely cut and sold for decora-
tive purposes. Not only do they remain without
wilting for a week or ten days in a warm room,
but they will dry on the stems and retain their
cream-white color all winter. Half a dozen of
these panicles on long stems in a large vase, with
spikes of Gladiolus of some positive color, make
a very effective group.— Garden and Forest.
Siloed YegetableB. Potatoes being so cheap
last fall, a farmer in an adjoining county placed
a quantity at the bottom of his silo. They were
imbedded in and covered with chaff, and the silo
filled with cornfodder as usual, Kecently the
bottom was reached and the tubers found to be
sound and solid as the day they were put in. This
may solve the problem of having plump, crisp
old Potatoes, until new ones are ready for the
table.- N. Y. Tribune.
High-grade Fertilizers the Best. As a rule, the
fertilizer which contains the greatest amount
of nitrogen, phosphoric acid and potash is the
cheapest; for the cost of manufacture, freight-
age and rate of commission are the same for
high-grade as for low-grade fertilizers, and the
labor on the part of the farmeris increased as the
grade of the goods decreases.- Bulletin N. J. Ex-
periment Station.
Do you Keep Bees 1 No. Why not V Can't be
bothered. How's your seed crop? Middling
only. Now take an old fellow's ad\ice. If you
want a good seed crop or a good fruit crop, keep
bees. I know it, they destroy the Heliotropes in
the blight days of early spring, still the advan-
tages we derive from them exceed the interests
we sacrifice.— Mr. Falconer in Am. Florist.
Oladiolns-flowered Cannas. You ought to
grow a lot of them. They are dwarf, very showy
and free-flowering, and not only fitted tor plant-
ing out doors in summer, but they make hand-
some indoor blooming plants in early spring.
Don't store them dry over winter as you would
a common Canna Indica, but keep them growing
a little as you do C. Ehemannii.— Florist.
Storing Onions. A few Red Wethersfield On-
ions had been accidentally left in a deep box
standing on the cellar bottom. They were cov-
ered with two feet of buckwheat chaff, several
old rugs and smaller boxes piled on top. On July
1st would have been difficult to tell them from
new ones.— N. Y. Tribune.
Draw Manure Now, Why put manure on your
fields in the spring? Is that the way the Lord
manures His farm? Is that the way He has
reared these great Oaks and Chestnuts and Pines V
No; He raises a plant to feed an animal to make
fertility, and He alwaj's spreads manure in the
fall.— Prof. I. P. Koberts.
The Russian Mulberry has certainly furnished
the cold north with another useful lawn tree.
For fruit it is not of much account, but it makes
a variety where variety is circumscribed by cli-
mate.—American Garden.
Improving Our Homes. Awkward, flowerless,
treeless homes are abominations. The nurserymen
who help to cultivate rural tastes are patriots and pub-
lic benefactors.— Jolm J. Thomas.
Potash Salts for Potatoes It is noted in several
Instances this year that where Potatoes were fertilized
with potash salts the blight has been less prevalent.—
Garden and Forest.
Wood Ashes tor the Orchard. Ten to twenty bush-
els of t^ood ashes per acre annually is the best and
cheapest fertilizer on any soil. -Orange Judd Farmer.
Bouvardias in Winter. They are lovers of consid-
erable heat, and In the sitting room should be given a
place at the middle of the window.— Ex.
Plant Tulips in Fall. We are informed by seeds-
men that they frequently get orders for Tulip bulbs in
the spring when none are tor sale —Ex.
Black Knot. Plum raising will be a failure till all
are willing to co operate to cut it out, burn it and start
anew.— Country Gentleman.
Protect the Birds. Rather than kill birds to save
fruit, 1 would raise more fruit to attrsict the birds.—
Dr. Kirtland.
More Trees Needed. A languishing nursery busi-
ness would be a national calamity-— W. C. Barry.
Secret of Success in Potato GrowinB. It is the old
storj'. •' clover and tillage."— T. B. Terry.
Vegetable Products on Table.
Quince and Sweet Apple Preserves. These are
excellent. Use one-third Quince to two-thirds
Apple. Steam the fruit to preserve its form,
using the water in steamer for making the syrup
for the preserves.
Eacalloped Vegetable Oysters. Mash freshly-
boiled Vegetable Oysters, moistening them with
cream, and seasoning with salt. Cover with dry
bread-crumbs, and bake seven minutes in a quick
oven.— Ex.
Keeping fresh Cranberries. Look them over
carefully, rejecting all but sound berries. Put
into a jar and cover with pure cold water. Keep
in a cool place and they can be had fresh, until
as late as anybody wants to eat Cranberries.
Even if the water freezes the fruit is uninjured.
Parsnip Stew. Three slices of salt pork boiled
1}^ hours ; scrape five large Parsnips, cut in quar-
ters lengthwise, add to the pork, and let boil one-
half hour, then add a few Potatoes, and let all
boil together until the Potatoes are soft. The
fluid in the kettle should be about a cupful when
ready to take oflf.
Quince Preserve. The flavor of Quinces is
brought out by long cooking. The Orange
Quince is best to use. Pare, quarter, and core
and boil in clear water until tender. Skim out
the fruit and put a pound of sugar to each half a
pound of the fruit. Add the Quinces a few at a
time, and boil till clear; put, them in a jar and
pour the sj'rup over them.
Barberries and Apples. One peck of Barber-
ries, one gallon of molasses, five pounds of brown
sugar. Boil the molasses alone, then put in the
sugar and skim it ; then add the Barberries freed
from stems, and boil until clear. Skim out and
put in a peck and a half of Sweet Apples pared
and quartered, and boil until soft. Pour the
syrup over the Apples and berries in a stone jar.
Sweet Potato Biscuit. Half a pound of cooked
Potatoes peeled and mashed and rubbed through
a sieve to get out all the fibres, a light quart of
flour, a large .spoonful of lard, a teaspoonful of
salt, and fresh milk enough to mix up a rather
soft dough. Mix thoroughly, mould, roll, stick
and bake in a quick oven, and eat hot with plen-
ty of fresh butter, and of coui-se good coffee.—
Good Housekeeping.
Spiced Apple. To six pounds of peeled and
cored sweet Apples add two pounds of sugar,
one quart of good cider vinegar and a table-
spoonful each of ground Cloves and Cinamon tied
loosely in a bag. Make a syrup of the sugar,
^■inegar and spices, cook in it the Apples until
they are done but not broken, then dip them
out into bottles, cover .closely, fill up the bottles
with the syrup when boiled until thick,
Stu£Eed Egg Plant. Take a small or medium-
sized egg-plant and put it on the stove in a sauce-
pan of boihng water; let it cook for half an
hour, take out, cut it in half and scoop out the
inside, taking care not to break the skin. The
portion removed must be well seasoned and
beaten smooth with a fork. Mix with it a lump
of butter, the size of an egg. Fill the skins with
the mixture, sprinkle the top with bread crumbs
and bits of butter here and there ; brown in oven
for about ten minutes.— Western Rural.
Apples with Jelly. Pare and core one dozen
Apples; put in enough water to cover and let
stew until they look as if they would break ; take
out of the water and into the latter put one and
one-half poimds of sugar : let this come to a boil;
put in the Apples and let them stew until done
through and clear; remove Apples again and
into the syrup slice one large IfCmon; add one
ounce of gelatine dissolved in a pint of cold
water ; let all mix well and come to a boll ; then
pour upon the Apples. Serve cold with cream.—
Western Rural.
Boiling Vegetables. Onions, medium size re-
quire one hour ; Green com, twenty to twenty-
five minutes; Peas and Asparagus, twenty-five
to thirty minutes : Potatoes, half an hour, un-
less small, when rather less; Cabbage and Cauli-
flower, twenty-five minutes to half an hour-
Carrots and Turnips, forty-five minutes when
young, one hour in winter; Beets, one hour in
summer, one hour and a half or even two hours,
if large, in winter; String Beans, if slit or sliced
slantwise and thin, twenty-five minutes, if only
nipped across, forty minutes.
Apple Jelly. Select high-flavored, acid, white-
fleshed varieties, like the Orange Pippin or Bell-
flower, boiling the skins and seeds, tied in cheese-
cloth, with the juice, which heightens the flavor.
For the finest jelly, press two quarts of cider and
put it to simmer; pare five pounds of Apples,
slice and boil in the cider over a brisk fire till the
fruit is melted down ; strain and boil again with
ten ounces of sugar to the pound of juice. This
may be flavored with Lemon or Orange peel,
with Rose petals— flve ounces being required for
the abo^'e amount of Apples — or with Quince. —
Germantown Telegraph.
HOUSE PLANTS.
Ardesia shows to best advantage In a temperature
of 45" to 50'^. Guard a^^ralnst frost.
Agapanthas umbellatns, stored in a cool, light cel-
lar should be kept only just luoist enough to prevent
the leaves from shrivelling.
Begonias. The tuberous-rooted varieties should
now be at rest. Pots to be kept In a dry situation,
with au average temperature of 50*. The Rex varieties
also to be given less moisture and allowed to rest.
Cactus. Keep in a light, cool place, and cease wat-
ering.
Callas. Coax into stronggrowih by liberal watering
and occasional applications of liquid manure.
Cestrnms after being trimmed Into shape may go
into a cool light cellar, and should be kept dry at the
root.
Chinese Primrose. See under Plants Under Glass.
Cyperus alternifolia needs occasional doses of liquid
manure, and a liberal supply of water.
Freesia refracta. Start now for early bloom. In-
crease the water supply at the root with advancing
growth.
Fuchsias- The winter bloomers should have occa-
sional doses of liquid manure. The summer bloomers
are at rest In a cool, light cellar, and kept rather dry.
Geraniunis. Winter blooming Zonales when grow-
ing vigorously may be helped along by oecaslona
doses of liquid manure. Cuttings when i-ooted to be
potted at once, and placed in a light situation.
Hydrangeas may be stored and treated like Oes-
trums.
Insects. Guard against red spider and others.
Ivy. Look out for scale. Sponge off the leaves.
Jasminum Grandiflorum. Give an occasional stim-
ulant of manure water.
Jerusalem Cherries now at rest should be kept in a
cool, light cellar, and rather dry at the roots.
Lemon Verbenas. See Jerusalem Cherries.
Myrtns communis should have a light stuiny situa-
tion without too much water.
Orange Trees, Lemons, etc. Leaves and stems
should be sp<mgeil ofl" occasionally. Water less freely.
Oxalis- Gradually Increase the water supply, and
give sunny exposure if bloom Is desired.
Pomegranates may be treated like Hydrangea.
Sponging off the leaves of all plants occasionally
helps to keep them bright and healthy.
Watering, whenever done, should be thorough.
LAWN AND FLOWER GARDEN.
Box edging may be taken up, divided and replanted
as long as the ground remains unfrozen. Firm the
ground well about the roots.
Bulbs for sprlTig flowerlug ought to have been set
earlier, but It Is not yet too late to set them If not done
before. Mulch those set late.
Flower beds may now be given a good dressing of
well-rotted compost, to be dug in deeply.
1889.
POPULAR GARDENING.
43
Grading. Thoroughly exnmlne the lawu. auit cor-
rtH't lrrej;ulaiitles ainl uneven places.
Hardy herbaceous plants should be marked with a
labelleii stake, to Insure their safety nt;alost destruc-
tion next spring when the t>eOs nre dug over. To
muleh them sllghllv, or cover with Evergreen boughs
Is always a good precaution.
Haneing baskets, vases, etc.. tobe emptied, cleaned,
replante<1 and taken under cover.
Improvements. Now Is the most convenient time
usually for draining, trenching, making walks, mend-
ing lawn, etc.. and this work should be pushed ahead as
much as possible.
Leaves raked fiom the lawn can be put to good use
for mulching, or as addition to the compost heap.
Mannre, In the shape of well rotted compost, or of
bone nienl, wood ashes, etc., now to be applied to the
lawn broadcast.
Mulchine. Shrubs In the border, Roses and most
other plauts in open ground are benefited by mulching
with coarse litter. It-aves, leaf -mould, etc.
Planting. While the weather remains open, trees
and shrubs may still be taken up and reset, or planted
out as desired.
Pansies. Protect the young seedlings for next
season by covering with Evergreen boughs, or coarse
litter after the ground becomes frozen.
Protection. RhodtiKlendrons and other Evergreen
shrubs In exposed situation can be protected by plac-
ing Evergreen btiughs. but-end down, around them and
tying the tops together with stout twine.
Stakes and garden requisites should be gathered and
stored away to be on haud and In good condition for
next -reason's use.
Tools. Take care of lawn mowers and other tools.
Clean and oil the steel parts and gearing, and store
properly.
PLANT CULTURE UNDER GLASS.
Acacias should now be watered freely, and be given
occasional doses of liquid manure.
Astiibe Japonica. Start for early bloom.
Azaleas. For late blooming keep iu a cool part of
the house, for early blooming aud young plants place
in warmest part of the house. Plants at rest should be
kept only moderately moist.
Abntilons. In order to secure bushy specimens the
leading shoots should be pinched back oceasionaliy.
Achyranthes as a winter plant need a warm situa-
tion, attention as to watering and protection against
red spider. Pinch leading shoots back occasionally to
secure the desirable bushy form.
Bulbs required for flowers during the holidays should
be brought into heat five or six weeks before flowers
are wanted.
Cnphea platycentra to be kept In a light, sunny sit
ualion if a continuation of bloom is desired. Leading
shoots to he pinched in occasionally.
Cineraria maritima to be treated like Abutilons.
Chinese Primrose should be carefully watered.
Wetting thd foliage often causes loss by rot.
Camellias. Keep cool and syringe occasionally, to
retard flowering as much as possible.
Calceolarias and Cinararias for early flowering
should be shifted into large pots. Keep In a cool, light
air>- place.
Carnations. Water moderately, and syringe occa-
sionally on suuny mornings. Stake and tie up as re-
quired. Air freely.
Cyclanien.9- Keep close to the glass, and In an aver-
age temperature of 50 degrees. Plants In bloom may
be given occasional doses of liquid manure.
Deutzia gracilis for early blooming to be started Into
growth by placing in gentle heat.
Epiphyllum trnncatum. Start into bloom by plac-
ing in a light sunny situation, and Increasing heat aud
moist uie.
Ferns. Repot when necessary; supply freely with
water. Keep free from insects, especially scale.
Gesnerias- Water liberally, but avoid wetting the
foliage.
Glozinias now at rest, and to be placed in a dry sit-
uation, and an average temperature of 50 degrees.
Habrotamnns In a sunny situation will flower free-
ly, and should have liquid mauure occassionally.
Heliotropes may be kept in boxes or large pots
where they have an abundance of root room.
Insects. Fumigate weekly wlih Tobacco stems; or
keep the gutters with Tobacco tea on the pipes. De-
stroy mealy bujs by band picking, and scale by soap
wash. Syringe the house frequently for red spider.
Jerusalem Cherries. Water freely and give liquid
manure occasionally. This will help to keep the ber-
ries on.
Lily of the Valley. For early bloom begin forcing
towards end of the month.
Mignonette. Keep as close to glass as possible.
Water moderately.
Pansies for forcing, keep as close to the glass as
possible. Air freely and keep the ground among the
plants well stirred.
Foinsettias. Place in warm, moist atmosphere and
close to the glass. Give liquid manure several times a
week, and maintain an average temperature of 60
degrees.
Pelargonioms. Shift your plants as needed. Repot
those cut down some time ago, and place In smallest
suitable pots.
Roses tralutM] to the rafters should be tied up as fast
as they grow, and a little weak manure water given
occasionally.
Violets. Keep down all runners and dead leaves
and otherwise treat like Pansies. Those In frames
should be covered by end of monili with straw mats
or shutters.
FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD.
Blackberries. The tender sorts In exposed sltua
tlons should always be protected against injury by
laying down. Trim out the old wood. Enrich the
field with stable manure, or bonedust aud potash,
wood ashes, etc., if needed.
Currants and Gooseberries may be pruned and
mulched with stable manure.
Cions of Tree Fruits. Cut and store in small bun-
dles in sand in the cellar. When stored In large par-
cels they are liable to heat and mold.
Cuttings. Those of Grapes, Gooseberries, Currants,
etc., must be treated like Clons of tree fruits.
Cider. All fruit not fit for sale or suitable for eva-
porating should be turned into cider and elder vinegar.
Rotten Apples should not be used.
Grape Vines. Autumn pruning is now generally
conceded to be preferable to spring pruning. All ten-
der varieties should be laid down upon the ground,
and perhaps even slightly covered.
Packing Frnit. Use only good, honest fruit, and
pack it tightlj' in clean barrels, or crates, labelling
carefully.
Raspberries. Treat like Blackberries, but be more
generous in manuring.
Rubbish. Clean up and burn prunings, leaves, litter,
and the like.
Stra'wberries set in the fall must be protected dur-
ing the winter. Two inches of straw will answer. See
that drainage is perfect. Southern people who desire
to set northem-grovm plants should buy them now,
since they can not be had early enough in the spring.
Stocks for root grafting shculd be lifted early this
month and stored in earth in the cellar, or in cold
frames, where they can be got at easily when wanted.
Young Orchards. Every tree set this year should
be supported and protected by a mound around the
trunk. This is better than a stake.
VEGETABLE GARDEN.
Asparagus. Cut oflC the tops aud burn to destroy
the seeds.
Cabbage. Pull and store for winter, but don't cover
very deep before cold weather sets in.
Carrots. Gather, cut off the tops and store same as
Potatoes.
Celery must be taken up and stored before hard
freezing weather sets in. Place upright in narrow
trenches, closely together, and cover with boards,
litter, soil, etc., as the season advances. Small quanti
ties may be packed in boxes in moist moss, and will
keep for a long lime.
Onions keep best in a dry, cool, airy place. Protect
agains-t repeated freezing and thawing.
Plowing in autumn is usually of benefit, if the
soil is reasonably dry the subsoil plow may follow the
common plow.
Parsnips for early winter use to be taken up and
stui ed like Carrots. For spring leave in the ground.
Rhubarb needs a heavy dressing of good compost to
be worked into the soil around the roots in spring.
Spinach will winter better if covered with a few
leaves or a little hay just before the ground freezes
solid.
FRUIT AND VEGETABLES UNDER
GLASS.
Asparagus roots should be taken up at once, and
store<l In cold frames, so they can be got at when
wanted.
Figs Store those in tubs or boxes in a cool dry
cellar before freezing weather sets In. Those intended
for forcing under glass must now be brought in.
Frames. The sashes will soon have to be put on the
cold frames. Get them iu readiness.
Grapes. Keep the late houses cool and dry. and air
freely. Decaying berries to be removed. Prune the
vines In the intermediate houses as soon as the leaves
fall. Clean off canes and lay them down. In very
early bouses the vines can now be started into gradual
growth. Protect the borders by a mulch of coarse
strawy manure before cold weather sets in.
Lettuce in cold frames should be well aired, and at
the same time well protected from frost by means of
mats, shutters etc. In forcing pits the growing plamts
should be given an average temperature^of 55 degrees.
Air freely whenever the weather is suitable. Plants
in cold frames to be wintered over should not be pro-
tected except in severe storms. The green fly may be
kept In check by scattering Tobacco stems freely
around the plants.
Pine Apple in fruit must be given a warm moist at-
mosphere. Young plants need a moderately dry at-
mosphere, aud from 35 to 60 degrees of heat.
Rhubarb. Treat same as Asparagus.
Strawberries. Those in pots are to be plunged In
cold frames before severe freezing weather sets In.
Water sparingly.
Salsify. Treat same as Parsnips.
Sea Kale. About last of the month cover of six
Inches or more of coarse manure or Utter.
Squashes can be kept In a dry, cool place, but must
be guarded against frost.
Tools. Gather up, clean, oil aud put them away
safely for next season's use.
Turnips. Gather and stoie in barrels In a cool cellar
for immediate w^e, and in pits for winter and spring.
THE POULTRY YARD.
Steel Trap. If properly employed it will
catch many of the enemies of the poultry keeper.
Have a long chain attached to it and the chain
secured by a weight or a stake.
Poultry Manure worth Saving. To make the
best use of Poultry manure it must be kept dry;
composted with leaf mould or dry muck and
sprinkled with kalnit or gypsum.
Feed Judiciously. While there are many who
do not fee.l lavi-^lily. there are far more who do
not feed enough, or who feed very irregularly,
and the result is a poor lot of fowl^.
Autumn Management. During the rainy sea-
son, give the fowls a hot feed in the morning.
Midlings mixed with chopped greens, with a por-
tion of meat scraps once a week, and wet with
scalding water, makes good rations. Give Wheat
or Corn at night.— Poultry Monthly.
Water Regularly. A regular supply of water
is needed, and this if possible a little warm. Use
a shallow iron vessel. Warm it well and pour in
warm water. Being shallow it will prevent them
from getting too wet and will keei> warm suffi-
ciently long to enable them all to secure a supply.
Cheap Convenient Disinfectant. Mixing one
bushel of finelj' sifted dirt and one pound of
chloride of lime. It flue Tobacco dust be added,
all the better. Dust over the floors or any por-
tion of the poultry-house, and it will greatly
assist in keeping off disease and vermin. The
cost is but a trifle.— Fla. Dispatch.
Poultry Hospital. Every farmer should have
a small room in which all the sick chickens
should at once be placed, thereby saving the well
ones from catching the disease. There should
also be a picker house, in which to kill and dress
fowls for market. These buildings need not be
large, and will be found very useful.
Keep the Poultry House Clean. Experience
shows that poultry are injuriously affected by
the emanations from filthy guarters, aud besides,
working in places wheie roost^s and floors are fil-
thy with droppings is an unpleasant task. Dry
earth is the best deodorizer known, and the best
absorbent to preserve the manure in the least
offensive manner.
Automatic Feeders. The latest addition to
poultry supplies is a self-feeding hopper. It is
tilled with grain, and by a series of lessons in
gymnastics the bird is taught to place its foot up-
on a lever, agd is rewarded with a kernel. The
poultry man that has no time to scatter his feed
with his hands had better have an auction.— Ger-
mantown Telegraph.
Cross Breeding. Cross-bred fowls, that is the
product of the uniim of two pure-bred fowls of
different breeds, are among the most profitable
fowls for the market man. In the use of tbem
he often obtains hardier fowls, better layers, bet-
ter table fowls, and in a word those that are
more profitable in every way~.H. S. Babcock
before R. I. Poultry Association.
Prepare for Winter. "Let down'^ the fowls
easily and gi-aduaJly from the green food to dry.
If you have a silo you are all right. Be ready
for the cold wheather. It will come at once and
if you are not prepared for it, more danger can
be done in three days than you can repair all
winter. A warm, dry, properly ventilated house
is the first thing to see to. — Mass. Plowman.
Market Fowls. As a rule. New York and Phil-
adelphia dealers prefer dressed poultry that has
the feathers only removed; head, feet and entrails
remain. Boston, Baltimore and rhicago markets
require that the fowls be "drawn." Some mar-
kets—as Chicago, for instance— give preference
to dressed poultry that has been relieved of the
heads and which has the skin drawn up and neat-
ly tied over the stumps.
Dressing Poultry. To begin with, let all the
poultry fast twelve hours previous to killing it,
to insure an empty crop. The highest prices,
other things being equal, are paid for dry-picked
poultry. Be sure and remove all the pin feathers,
as any left in, give an untidy appearance that
goes against the successful marketing of the birds.
The best time to pick poultry without scalding
it is to pick while the birds ai*e warm.
Dressing Poultry. If you want to know how
to dress your poultry so that {if otherwise good)
it will command the highest price, send right
straight to a commission house that deals in
poultry, or to some retail dealer in poultry in
the place where you propose to sell your poultry,
and find out just what kind of dressed poultry
sells best— whether dvy or wet-picked, drawn or
undrawn, is preferred.— Prairie Farmer.
44
POPULAR GARDENING.
November,
Correspondent a are urged to anticipate the afoaon in pre-
aenting questions. To aak. for instance, on ApHl 1ft or 20
tehat Peas had best be 80U>n. could bring no answer in
the May issue, and none before June, vhen the ansteer
would be unaeasonable. Qiteations received before the 12TA
of any month utand a good chance of being anaieered in the
next paper yut more than three questions should be sent
at one time. Anstrers to qutstii.ns bearing on the com-
parative vaiiu of tvipiements, etc., offered by different
dealers must notbe ejrpected. Seilher can tre promise to
comply wiih tne request somettn-es made to ''please anazcer
by mail." Inquiriea appearing without name belotig to the
name next fodoiping
Replies to Inquiries are earnestly requested from our
readers. In anawerintj auch give the number, your
looalfty and name, the latter not for publication, unless
you desire. Write only on one side of the paper.
1.457. Keeping Cider Sweet. How best done with-
out using sallt-yllc acid?— M. R.. Luzerne, Pa,
1.458. Landscape Gardening. What are the best
works on landscape and decorative gardening?
1.4?9. Amaryllis. When is the best time to trans-
plant?—S. W. S., Mokena. Ills.
1.490. Crinum Culture. What is the proper treat-
ment for bloom?
1.491. J. L. Bndd Apricot. Is the foliage like Peach?
P. K., Aledo. Ills.
1.492. Transplanting Large Trees. Can It be done,
and would such operation t«ud to restore ray Seckel
Pear tree to fruitfuJness?— W. S. H., Montclair, N. J.
1.493. Blackberry Disease. Stalk seems enlarged at
top, curls over; leaves curl, no fruit, no ^owth. What
is the matter?- D. E. V. B., Middletoic-n, Conn.
1.494. Marianna Plum as Stock. Can Peaches be
budded or grafted on it?
1.495. Plum for Market. What variety is considered
most profitable?- C. L. B.. Dayton. O.
1,49«. Water Lily. When should they be planted in
greenhouse, and how treated?— E. A., Melrose High-
lattds. Mass.
1.497. Pistillate Strawberries. Are they more pro-
ductive than the perfect flowering ones?— C. C. T.,
Harvard, Mass.
1.498. Begonias and Abulilons. How late can they
be left out doors safely?
1.499. Hot-bed for Lettuce, Parsley, Etc. How ar-
ranged and how managed?
1,6W). Plants for Small Conservatory. Please give
list of stiitable bulbs and plants from seed.— Hakris.
1.501. Starting Grape Seedlings. When and how
should seed be sown?— G. D. C. E.
1.502. Planting Raspberries. Should It be done In
fall or spring?
1,5(1-3. Manuring Blackberries. Will a shovelful of
manure to the hill increase next year's crop? Land
rather thin.— D. P.. Foiilar Grove, Ind.
1.504. Pandanus. How propagated and mjinaged?—
D. E., Mt. St. Vincent, X. T.
1.505. Peaches for Market. Please give list of best
early, medium and late.— J. B. C, Pitkin, Ills.
I,5it6. Propagation of Hard-Wooded Shrubs.
How can plants of Lilacs, Altheas, Exochordias,
Hydrangeas, etc.. best be grown for spring sale?— B. H.
J., N. Mex.
1,507. Clematis, Wistaria, Etc. How propagated
for spring sale? Also Ampelopsis, Honeysuckle, etc.—
B. fl.I.
1.503. Layering Shrubs. When and how should
this be done ?
\,W9. Best Potato, Name best for home use and
market.— SL'B.
1.510. Pruning Apples. When should It be done, In
autumn or spring?
1.511. Salem Grape. How much protection does It
require with 20^ or '■io'^ below zero occasionally?
1.512. Variegated Grape. Is there one in cultiva-
tion?—T. W., Muscotuh, Kans.
1.513. Breaking Down Onion Tops. Is this gener
ally practiced by growers, and at what stage of growth
to hurry up maturity?- S. R. R., Woodside, Del.
1.514. Early Strawberry. Which would do for this
climate? Wilson, Crescent, etc., good, but not early
enough?~R. A., Calhoun, Miss.
1.515. Soft Soap for Syringing. Where can I get It?
T. M., Pittshiirgh, Pa.
1.516. Potash Salts. Where can they be had nearest
here and at what price? Is washing soda profitable at
two cents per pound ?— J. G. K.. Buckner, Ky.
1.517. Moving Large Fruit Trees. Will It pay with
trees nine or ten years old?— D. R., Chelsea, Mass.
1.518. Tree Cricket. What Insect has laid Its eggs
Into my Raspberry canes?— G. A. H., Dafid City, Neb.
1.519. Mnsas in Conservatory. What care do they
need? Much watering ()r little?
1.520. Rhododendrons and Japan Maples. Do they
require winter protection in Slassachusetts?- H. L. N.,
Grafton, Mass.
1.521. White's Northern Muscat Grape. Is this of
any accoimt?— G. H. R., Alpiiw. Mich.
1.522. Treatment of Sloping Lawn. Is there a bet-
ter way than sodding? I hear they now mix up the
seed with soil, old horse manure and water, and apply
with trowel like mortar.— E. D. S., Windsor, .V. S.
l.Sil. Hydrangea Paniculata grandiflora. How
are cuttings kept over winter, or will they do better If
planted now?— P. H. B., Babylon, N. Y.
1.524. Small Propagating House. How best built
and heated, and at what cost?— D. A. R , Chelsea, Mass.
1.525. Yield oi Raspberries. Is there much differ-
ence between Nemaha, Gregg, Tyler and Soughegan?—
H. P. N. Mchols, Conn.
1.526. Parasite Breeding. How can we get the par-
asites that prey on Injurious insects, and utilize them,
as suggested by Prof. Fernald (see page 184, Vol. 4}?—
N. C. E., RUlgeville, Tenn.
1.527. Paint for Apple Trees. Will a paint made of
white lead and linseed oil Injure the stems? Have
used this for sun scald with good efEect.—H. J. S., Dei
Norte, Col.
1.528. Roses Ailing. Apparently In full vigor, sud-
denly they wither, leaves turning yellow and die.
Roots turn black and begin to rot before bush shows
s^lgns of ailment. What Is the matter?— Mrs. F. A. G.,
Varden, Miss.
1.529. Botan Plum Ailing. Gum oozing out on stem,
bark dead in some parts. What Is It?
1.530. Budding Trees. Please give directions.—
J. B., Brockicay Center, Mich.
1.531. Salt for Slugs. How much .should be applied
to rich, sandy loam, and when? Or Is there a better
remedy for snails, slugs, earth worms, etc.?— J. B.,
Augusta, Maine.
1.532. Heuchera Sanguinea. Where can seed be
obtained? H. E. B.. Marlboro, N. H.
1.533. Hardy Flowering Shrub. Recommend one
able to endure 10* below zero, and blooming morethan
once each season? G. B. D. v., Bronnock, Ariz.
1.534. Grapes Dropping. Bunches drop when touch-
ed. Vines on arbor bearing only on top. Should vines
be cut to ground? W. S. C, Chicago.
1.535. Weaver Plum. Please give descrlptlomJ.C.K.
REPLIES TO INQUIRIES.
1,399. Hauling Manure. In this locality farm-
ers and market gardeners haul manure six and
even ten miles, after buying it at a fixed rate per
cord. Manure of any kind is usually less affect-
ive on upland than on low, as it Is naturally
drained from the soil to a greater or less extent
on hilly land or where there is a natural slope.—
M. B. Faxon.
1,393. Pruning Raspberries. When laying
down for winter Raspberries and Blackberries
should be cut back to about four feet.— M. B. F.
1.481. Small Peaches. Your tree is either dis-
eased or starved. Try thorough clean culture
and application of woodashes, kainit or muriate
of potash in liberal quantities; or if the tree is
affected by yellows to such a degree that its re-
covery by feeding with potash seems doubtful,
tear it out and burn it.— P. G.
1.482. J. L. Budd Apricot. We know of no
Apricot having leaves resembling those of the
Peach. Your tree undoubtedly Is nothing more
nor less than a Peach tree, or a sprout from the
stock, the bud having failed to take.— P. G.
1,494. Uarlannaas Stock. The Marianna Plum
owing to the readiness with which it can be prop-
agated from cuttings, is much used as a stock
for other Plums, and apparently with good re-
sults. The best thing you can do with your
Marianna trees is to graft better and more reli-
able sorts upon them, select whatever sorts will
do well in your locality, and amongst others,
try also the Botan. Peaches may lie budded on
Marianna stock, but it Is doubtful whether this
course could be recommended. We would rather
tear up the Plums, and replant with young
thrifty Peach trees, if ive thought Peaches more
desirable ot the piece than Plums.— P. G.
1 ,497. Pistillate Strawberries. These are
usually considered more productive than the bi-
sexual or perfect varieties. With all the new
varieties introduced, it is yet a matter of serious
doubt wether we have a single sort equalling the
old pistillate Crescent, when this Is given a
proper chance of poilenization by intermixing
it with some free poUen-producer, like Wilson,
Sharpless, James Vick, etc.— P. G.
1.502. Planting Easpberries. This can be
done at any time, but we have always had the
best success with fall planting. This is generally
considered preferable and can l_>e (.lone any time
before the ground freezes permanently. Such
plants have always a good start before those set
in spring, however early this may be done.— P. G.
1.503. Manuring Blackberries. Good crops
can usually be grown on land not excessively
rich; but we would not dispise the advantiiges
which a shovelful of good compost to each hill
would secure in "rather thin " soil. Indeed we
are not much afraid of " good manure " for any
crop.— P. G.
1,474. Pruning Raspberries, etc. I cut soon
after fruiting tn give more room for new canes to
grow. Some i)eople think the old canes protect
the others in the winter. May be they do, but if
removed early, the new canes will make a better
growth and thus be better able to protect thoni-
selves. Raspberries may be pruned when there
is no other w(irk late in fall: in winter, when
there is no snow; or, early insuring.— L.J.Farmir.
l,51t). Potash Salts. Our friends in Kentucky
might get their supply of kainit and muriate of
potash from any of the large fertilizer tirms in
Baltimore, at $13 to SI » per ton for the former,
and S45 for the latter; but it would certainly be
ad\isable for a number of growers to club to-
gether and buy a carload or a cargo together di-
rectly from the importer. The needed potash,
however, can often be had in Sfmthern sections
much the cheapest in the form of wood ashes,
cotton seed hull ashes, or perhaps Tobacco
refuse, and before investing in the foreign article,
it is always well to examine the home market
closely for cheaper home-made substitutes.
1.509. Best Potato. The Early Rose and its
various strains and seedlings— all under the name
Early Rose— are yet considered among the very
best market sorts, and good for home use also.
Their greatest fault is their lack of keeping
quality. Beauty of Hebron is also a superior ear-
Ij' sort for market. For home use we have usu-
ally given the Early Ohio and Early Sunrise the
preference. The former Is probably the earli-
est good sort in existence, but many growers
complain of its not being productive enough.
Early Sunrise is also decidedly earlier than Early
Rose; and both (Ohio and Sunrise) are better
keepers than the Rose, the Ohio really one of the
very best. For late use or market the White Star
and Empire State are often unsurpassed. But so
much depends an local condition, that a definitive
answer could hardly be ^iven. The Western
Rural answers a similar question as follows: That
question to use a vulgar expression, is a poser.
We forget just how many varieties of Potatoes
there are said t<i be, but they may be said to be
almost innumerable; and to sa.v which is abso-
lutely best, is impossible. It is impossible to say
whicTti of even the best known and more common-
ly cultivated varieties ai-e best in any particular
case, without knowing all about the conditions,
and it might not be possible even then. The best
ad\ice we can give our correspondent, we think,
is to try several varieties. The catalogues of our
seedsmen cont*tin a description of our old and
new varieties that are being introduced. It is
not much trouble to test them.~P. G.
1.510. Pruning Grapes. See reply to 1,446, page
21 of this volume.
1,347. Canning Fruitt Corn, etc. "A man "in
Rural New Yorker gives the following sensible
directions, which we have no doubt, the inquirer
and many more of our readers will find useful:
In canning berries the less water used the better
the berries will be. If a few aie pressed and the
juice is used for cooking the others, the best pos-
sible results will be obtained. I consider yellow
Peaches alone fit for canning purposes. Peaches
properly canned should show clear syrup when
opened. Soft Peaches, properly handled before
canning will make a thick syrup full of floating
particles. For a prime article, take fruit fully
ripe but not soft, pi-epare by hand, dropping each
piece in the water as soon as cut. If glass is to be
used, cook the fruit for a few minutes and can.
If tin cans fastened with solder are used, the
fruit may be scalded to make it pack closely, and
packed with the fingers, sealed up, except a small
hole, and placed for five minutes in boiling water
to expel the air, seal up tightly and boil 20 to 30
minutes. Tomatoes should be scalded, skinned,
cut, and thoroughly cooked if glass is used. If
tin cans are used, (and they are much better than
glass), pack in the raw Tomatoes as long as you
can, pressing out all juice and seeds possible, and
proceed as with Peaches, except that it is better
to boil them twice as long. Corn and Peas are
very hard to keep by ordinary methods. The
method used by canneries is as follows: The Corn
is husked and then piissed through the cutting
machines. Another machine removes all the
silks, and the Corn is packed into tin cans by
hand. The cans are filled with hot salt water,
sealed, heated and vented; the vents are closed,
and the cans are finally boiled in a steam-tight
kettle for about 40 minutes at a temperature of
245 degrees, more or less. The impossibility of
securing such a degree of heat is the reason why
there are so many failures in the household.
Four or five hours boiling sometimes will do, but
oftener will not. Some people use cloths wrung
out of hot water >%Tapped around them, but bv
wrapping a dry cloth of any kind around each
can, j'ou can get a good grip on the ends and you
can liold it any way and anywhere you want It
while filUng. and you can put it on a table or
elsewhere without blistering your hands. Fruit
put up in tins certainly are better in taste. I
have yet to see the first good Tomatoes pre-
served in glass.— P. G.
1,470. Setting Fruit Trees. It is best to get
trees from the nursery in the fall but not to set
out permanently as heavy winds will wrench
and hurt them. Better way is to plow a ditch
by throwing out two furrows on a dry knoll and
in this plant or " heal in " the ti-ees inclining the
botiies to an angle of 45". Cover the roots with
earth when set and just befoi*e winter sets in,
eover them with earth. Do not put straw or
nuiterial over them that will draw mice to gnaw
the bark. Uncover toi>s early iu spring and set
when ready.— I/. J. Farmer.
1889.
POPULAR GARDENING.
45
1.4-4. Keeping Sweet Potatoes. Tlie Western
Hunil tells u iiiirt\*poudent who at^ks the same
iiuestion, they eau be kept for several inimths in
an iirdinary eellar. it he is careful in handling
them. They should be thoroughly ilried before
being put awav, and so carefully handled as not
to bruise them. The drying ma>- be done in the
sunshiiu'. spreading them out carefully so the
siHi lan itet at them, and earefullj- coveruig them
at night so that the dews will not got on them,
or they may lie dried in a kiln Kor faniil.v use
drying in the sxmshiue would, of coui'se, be the
cheapest and would answer all purposes. The
cellar in which they are kept should be dry, and
is lietter when possible to so put them away
that the air can have free access through them.
\.M~. Heating Amatetir Greenhouse, Any
ordinary oil stove can be used for a small build-
ing. Have a drum made with opening in bottom
to let the direct heat in from the burner as shown
Oil Stove and Drtim for heating small Greenhouse.
in illustration. If the best of oil is used and
burners kept clean, there is no need of having
any escav>e lor the smoke to the outride. If this
is not done, the stove will smoke, and give you
trouble unless you proride an outlet through
pipe to the outside.— H. J. Emmerich, Mil.
1,477. Httlchin? Strawberries. We cover our
Strawberries fii'st time the ground freezes up
solid enough to bear a team and wagon. We
drive anywhere on the patch depositing the litter
where we want it. I like to have them covered
by December 1st. When covered before severe
freezing weather, the mulch is liable to smother
them and to make them too tender to bear the
severest weather later on. We use straw, spread-
ing it evenly all over the ground deep enough so
as to hide tne plants from view, say about two
to three inches deep. Some of ray neighbors
who have used Buckwheat straw report that it
injures the plants and the crop. Others report
favorably.— i. T. Farmer.
1.4S2. Kainit on Strawberries. The supposi-
tion that we know everything in regard to fruit
culture frequently puts us "in a hole." We have
been very anxious to find out the whole truth
about kainit, its effects, and its value as a fertil-
izer, especially for fruits, but all our efforts in
this direction have only lead to the discovery,
that even our best authorities, agricultural
chemist* and college professors included, can
give us very little information on the subject,
and that we are yet somewhat in the dark.
However, we have the following recognized
facts. Kainit has about 15 to 16 percent. pota.sh,
partly as sulphate and partly as muriate, and as
a provider of this one element of plant food to
soils deficient in it, is worth its full purchase
price when this is not above §1.5.00 per ton. The
older soils of New Jersey are very apt to lack
potash, and since this element is so important in
the production of good fruits, especially Straw-
berries, good results could be hoped for from
kainit applications. The action of this salt being
slow, fall is considered preferable to spring for
applying it. Besides directly ser\ing as food to
plants, kainit also gives the advantages that
could be expected from the application of land
plaster or gypsum, and this perhaps even in an
intensified degree. It absords or "fixes" am-
monia, by an e.vcliange of itssuljjhuric acid with
the carbonic acid of the volatile carbonate of
ammonia, thus forming the stable " sulphate of
ammonia" and the valuable "carbonate of pot-
ash," which are among the very best and most ef-
fective of the compounds of these plant-food ele-
ments. Kainit also contains common salt, and
will give all the effects which applications of the
latter can show. Considering all these various
services, there can be no doubt that kainit has
really a greater money value as a fertilizer than
should be inferred from the mere percentage
of potash which it contains. We would apply it
at the rate of about 500 pounds per acre, and in
some cases perhaps upwards, and about 1000
pounds of bone per acre besides, in order to sup-
ply also the needs of the crop in phosphoric acid.
1,.517. Moving Large Fruit Trees. If the trees
have to be taken up to make room for a build-
ing, for instance, and they are healthy and bear
good fruit, we would certainly try to save them.
This can easily be done by the excercise of care
and judgment. See also reply to 1,492.
1..518. Tree Cricket. The damage was done by
the snowy tree cricket. Full information on this
insect was given on page 241 (Vol. 4) of Popular
Gardening in reply to the similar query No. 1,314.
I,4i4. Keepini; Sweet Potatoes. The KarLsas
Farmer, in reply tt) a similar inquiry, gives the
following hints: Sweet Potatoes are sensitive in
every resiiect, us to changes of temperature,
moisture and handling. .\ light frost will endan-
ger their keeping civialities; exposure to any kiml
of weather in the open field is not good, and es-
pecially to wet weather. They will lie on a floor
that is inclosed and roofed a long time without
injury, if they are put there without bruising,
and if the pile is not deep, and if the temperature
does not get near the freezing point. They must
not lie long in the sun, they must not lie long in
the wet, they must not lie in the cold. As soon
as the Potatoes are matured they should be
raised. This must be done before the late fall
rains and before hea^T frosts come. A frost that
will kill the vines will not affect the Potatoes un-
less it also freezes the soil. But get them out at
once. Never leave out over night what you
raise during the day. Pick those which are to be
preserved over winter as carefully as Apples are
picked, and put them in a dry, cool place that is
well secured against rain and frost. Dry ground
makes a good floor, provided it is so protected as
to be free from effects of rain or cold on the out-
side. The pile must not be deep— a foot in depth
is enough during the warm weather of the fall
months; it might be made deeper late in Decem-
ber, when the Potatoes are picked over and all
damaged ones are thrown away. Such as are
skinned or bruised or broken or cut during the
process of raising should be kept by themselves
and used as fast as needed. They won't keep
long. The smaller Potatoes, if they are sound
and well matured, those say one inch or one and
a half inches in diameter, should be saved at the
first picking for seed. They are quite as good as
large ones. For keeping them through the win-
ter, store boxes and old barrels will do for small
quantities, but they must be made absolutely
frost-proof. They should have a little ventila-
tion occasionally. For larger quantities, if one
has no bins prepared for the purpose and has not
conveniences to prepare them, make a " cave " —
a cellar mostly above ground. This can be done
with but little labor and no e-xpense beyond a
few nails, and lumber enough to make a little
door, with two posts and a few strips to lean
from the ground to the ridge-pole, on which to
lay hay and cover with earth. The two import-
ant things about keeping sweet Potatoes in win-
ter are to keep them dry and warm enough to
prevent their freezing. Make the arrangement
so that fresh air may be passed over them. They
are better packed in dry sand, chaff, cut straw or
some similar matter. Don't cover them for win-
ter until the season admonishes you; that is to
say, keep them in a dry, cool place until frosts
appear, then close them in.
I.IK. Transplanting Large Trees. It can be
done, but whether it would be advisable or not
is yet another question. We fear it is not. In
fact it is not often very satisfactory to move
trees of any kind larger than can be readily
handled with nearly all their roots. One of our
exchanges points out some facts that should be
understood by any one desirous of moving a
large tree. The first is that you are undertaking
a large job; second, if it is not done well, so the
tree will thrive, it is labor worse than wasted, for
there is more pleasure in seeing a small tree grow
than in seeing a large one die. With these two
points in mind, consider the location and the dis-
tance it has to be moved, and the means at hand.
In many cases it will be found best to dig a trench
around the tree and cut off the long roots, leav-
ing roots and soil enough to support the tree this
tall, and leave the trench open and drained so it
will not fill with water. Then dig a hole where
you want the tree to stand large enough to hold
the ball of earth that is left on the roots. Then
after the soil is frozen as hard as it will be. loosen
the tree by pulling on the top, and tip it over;
move it on a sled and set it in the hole and brace
it up. Then in spring, when the soil thaws, the
job can be completed. In the case cited by you,
however, we would resort to simpler, safer and
really more sensible means than transplanting
the Pear tree. Turn under the sod mot only
within a radius of four feet from the tree, as you
have done, but at least of a rod) by plowing,
spreading or digging. Do not permit weeds or
grass to grow, and apply plenty of good fertilizer,
especially of a mineral nature- bone or other
forms of phosphate and potash. Wood ashes can
not be surpassed as a fertilizer for fruit trees.
Kainit is good. Treat the tree in this way, and
we have not a particle of doubt that it will give
you again the old-time abundant crops.
1,476. Apples for Home Use. We have tried
the plan of packing Apples in bran, sawdust and
Oats. In bran they soon began to heat, and near-
ly the whole fruit thus packed was spoiled. In
hardwood sawdust they kept pretty well, while
Pine sawdust imparted its peculiar pitchy flavor,
and spoiled the Apples for our taste. Aiiples
packed in dry Oats, however, kept in perfect
condition, and we consider it a very superior way
of preserving Apples (and probably Pears also)
for home use. Try it and report results.- P. G.
1,4'*7. Keeping Cider Sweet. We greatly doubt
that salicyhc acid when used in preserving cider
in the small quantities needed -one or one and
one-half ounces of the drug to the barrel of cider
—would prove so ver.v injurious to the health of
the moderate user of such leverage. The drug is
now much used in medicinal art in much larger
doses, tor instance for certain kinds of periodical
headaches. The following method, however, is
vouchcxl tor by one of our exchanges to give
good results: Allow the cider to work until it
reaches the condition most desirable to the taste,
then add one and one-half tumblers of grated
Horseradish to a barrel of cider and shake well.
This arrests fermentation. After remaininga tew
weeks, rake off and bung up tightly in a clean
cask. It is also said that cider may be kept sweet
for years by putting it up in cans after the man-
ner of canning fruit. The cider should first be
allowed to settle.and then be racked or syphoned
off from the dregs and canned before fermenta-
tion begins.
1,4.38. Water for Plants. Nothing better than
rain or spring water. Li<juid manure can be
given occasionally, or whenever the cultivator
thinks the plants will be benefited bj' it. Don't
use the iron and sulphur water.— C. E. P.
1,4.58. Planting Trees, etc. Apple Pear and
Quince trees can be planted in the fall with de-
cided advantage. The stone fruits such as
Peaches, Plums,Cherries, etc., do best when plant-
ed in the spring. Deciduous shrubs can be plant-
ed in the fall and so can vines, but if they are
small I would not plant until spring — C. E. P.
1,457. Fertilizers for Palms, etc. If the pots
are well filled with roots occasional waterings
with liquid manure will he of the greatest ad-
vantage. Be careful, however, not to use it too
strong.-C. E. Pabnell.
1,466. Laying down Grape Vines. Should be
done just before the ground freezes.— P.
1,463. Potato Digger. The Mattice & Keeler
Potato Digger has been quite extensively used
in this vicinity the past season, and with very
satisfactory results.— L'has. E. Pabsell.
1,470. Setting Froit Trees. For the last three
years I have been experimenting on the tantalizing
question of whether it is best to set out fruit trees
in spring or fall. I take pride in the thrifty condi-
tion of my young trees. I have found that with
the same care in the planting, trees set out in the
fall are equal in every case and in many cases
superior to those spring planted. With fall-set
trees I throw from a foot to eighteen inches of
earth around the trunk of the tree to keep it from
heaving on account of frost and from swaying in
the wind. It should be removed early io spring.
Thus, fall-set trees are in a better condition to stand
the winter than if they were trenched in, they be-
come settled in the gi-ound and are ready for
growth the first thing in the spring. None of my
trees do as well the first year as the second, but
my fall-set trees invariably do better the first year
than those planted in the spring — F. W.Brooke, Mich.
1,40.3. Prtining Bed Easpberries. I usually
wait until early spring, as in my experience the old
growth seems to offer a certain protection to the
new. It may be done late in the fall, however.— F.
1,406. Wintering Water Lilies. The tub
should be partially filled with water and will need
renewing now and then to keep it from becoming
stagnant.— M B. F.
1,409. Protecting Grape Vines andBaspberries.
Grapes should be cut back to about two buds of
the present seasons growth, then laid on the ground,
and if need be held down by stakes, then a covering
of straw, evergreen boughs or even earth should
be given. A great quantity is not needed. Rasp-
berries may be covered in the same manner ex-
cept that in bending over a shovel full of earth
should be placed next to the plant so as not to
make too sharp an angle in bending the canes
down.— M. B. Faxon.
1,415. Hollyhock Fungns. This blight seems
to be quite general. So far as I am aware no
remedies have as yet been found. — M. B. F.
1,431. Lily of the Vally. Pips or clumps may
be obtained of any bulb dealer about November 1st.
Plant preferably in a partially shaded location
about three inches deep. They are perfectly hardy.
— M. B. Faxos.
1,422. Ferns from Seed. The seed or spores
may be planted the same as other fine seeds . Keep
the soil coDstanly moist.- M. B. F.
1,436. Prickly Comfrey and Winter Vetch.
Mrs. J. S. E. Thompson, Sparfansburgh, N. C. can
supply the former and Northrup Braslau Goodwin
& Co., Minneapolis, Minn., catalogue the Vetch.—
M. B. Faxon.
1,431. Book on Begonias. The Tuberous Be-
gonia. Its History and Cultivation. Price 50 cents.
Published by Garden Pub. Co., Limited, 10 Spruce
street, New York, is the best work 1 know of. — F.
1,434. Killing Locust Trees. The sprouts
always bother in this way. The only thing to be
done is to cut them down repeatedly.— M.B.Faxon.
46
POPULAR GARDENING.
November,
1,453. Packing Small Fruit Plants. I learned
how to do it by noting: how others had done it,
when unpacking an order received by mail or
express. I was able to send plants to my friends
in short time. Do not think it necessary to see
someone else do it. Send to a nurseryman for
some plants and note how they are put together.
—L J. Farmer.
1,459. Manures for Strawberries. Some people
draw coarse manure into their Strawberries in
the winter with good results. We have used
horse manure sometimes with excellent success,
while at other times have thought it damaged
the plants. It has always been a benefit when
put in after the ^ound is frozen, and stirred up
when plants begm to start next spring allowing
them to grow through. I would leave the ma-
nure on top as a mulch, if strawy and mLxed in
it would have a tendency to dry out the soil and
shorten the crop. If manure is spaded in, a
mulch of straw should be put on to keep soil
moist and the fruit clean.— I/.XFarmer.
Wilder Early Pear.
While we do not care to say very much
for or against any new fruit before we have
seen it growing on the trees, and otherwise
tested it, we have not hesitated to tell our
readers that we were favorably impressed
with the specimens of the new Pear variety
called Wilder Early placed on our table. We
are sure this fruit has good points, foremost
among them extreme earliness, equalling
the much-boomed I^awson or Comet; very
fair quality and absence of rot from the core,
in both of which points it is equally supe-
rior to its more beautiful contemporary
(Comet-Lawson).
Our engravings of the Wilder Early will
show our readers what it looks lilie, both
inside and outside. Mr. Vaudeman, United
States Pomologist, speaks of this new Pear
in his last report, and also in very favorable
terms. Among the midsummer Pears, he
says, there is none that pleases me better
than this one, except that its size is rather
small. But like the Seckel, what it lacks in
size it makes up in quality, although it is
larger than that variety. It is a chance
seedling. The original tree was partially
grafted with scions of Buffum in 1870, when
it was young, and would never have borne
any fruit except of this old variety, had not
three of the natural branches been left.
These bear profusely, and the fruit when
fully colored is quite attractive. It does not
rot at the core.
Size, small to medium: shape, pyriform;
bell-shaped, irregular, a little angular; sur-
face, smooth, pale-yellow ground with deep
shading of brownish carmine; dots very
numerous and small; basin, shallow, regu-
lar; eye, nearly closed, sepals long and re-
flexed; apex, rather abrupt with a slight
cavity; stem, short; core, closed, very small;
seeds, very small, narrow, pointed, dark;
flesh very pale, whitish-yellow, fine grained,
tender; flavor, sub-acid, sprightly, much like
Bartlett; quality, very good; season, August
in Western New York.
Fertilizers for Shrubs and Flowers.
The subject of manuring plants and trees
with a view to special effect is one of consid-
erable complication, but which is well worth
deep study and thought. Prof. C. S. Plumb
of the University of Tennesee, tells Garden
and Forest the results of some experiments
recently made by him. In floriculture, says
Prof. Plumb, the application of fertilizers
may be made with three purposes in view: (1)
effect on bloom ; (2) effect on foliage ; (3)
eft'ect on seeds, bulb or other parts for prop-
agation. The first and third purposes gen-
erally go hand in hand, and, if we secure the
first, as a rule, the other is attained. The
past winter and spring I had under test in
the university green-house some interesting
work with manure for the purpose of ascer-
taining, in a measure, the effect of special
and general manures on foliage plants and
on flowers. In the first place, two lots of
Coleus, one being red and the other green.
received special application of mineral fer-
tilizers. Five hundred milligrams (about 7,7
grains) of each of the following fertilizers
were applied to a plant at intervals : (1) ni-
trate of soda ; (2) sulphate of Iron ; (-3) acid
phosphate ; (4) muriate of potash ; (.5) a
complete fertilizer. The last three had been
THE WILDER EARLY PEAR.
analized in the laboratory, and were good
specimens of fertilizers ; the other two were
standard brands.
Six plants were selected for each manure
as nearly alike as possible, excepting that
three were red and three green. The plants
were small, not having more than two nodes
each ; they had been cut back twice, and
were m three-inch pots. They occupied a
bench on the south side of the green-house,
and had good sun exposure. Water from
the same source was used in watering each
set of plants. The soil the plants were grown
in was as even in character as I could secure.
The most striking effect from the fertilizers
was seen in the application of soda. The
plants treated with this became either very
dark red or green in color and assumed a
robust growth of unmistakable character.
The complete fertilizer had an effect almost
as marked, and produced deep color and
strong growth. To my surprise the sulphate
of iron did not give the depth of color that
other experiments would seem to have war-
ranted us to expect in this case. The plants
appeared strong and healthy, but there was
nothing unusual in their color. I think that
the muriate of potash ranked third in effect-
iveness. The acid phosphate was not effect-
ive. The color of the foliage remained light,
and the plants did not make a growth equal
to those treated with the soda, potash and
complete fertilizer. The iron and phosphoric
acid had much the same effect.
These fertilizers made themselves felt for
a few weeks, when their influence appeared
to wear off, and all the plants began to once
more take on a similar foliaceous coloring.
Again the applications were made, and once
more the same effect of the different plant-
foods was made manifest. Future experi-
ments were repetitions of the first two;
whenever these fertilizers were applied the
same results followed.
To me, the most pertinent application of
what I saw in this, was the benefit to be de-
rived from the use of sodium nitrate in bring-
ing out strong foliaceous coloring, and es-
pecially in plants with bright-colored leaves.
If the beauty of a t'oleus bed lies in its color
of leaf, its effectiveness, in my opinion, may
be materially heightened by the use of
proper fertilizers.
In another direction I experimented with
manures on Roses. I procured sixteen two-
year-old La France Roses of as nearly the
same size as possible. These were separated
into four lots of four plants each. Before
planting, the soil was carefully washed from
the roots of each plant. Lot one was plants
ed in pure, washed river-sand, and fertilized
once a week with liquid cow manure. Lot
two was planted in sand like one, and treat-
ed once a week with liquid horse manure.
Lot three was planted like lots one and two,
and fed Floralis (a preparation procured
from J. M. Thorburn & Co.) once a week.
Lot four was planted in our regular Rose-
potting soil, and fertilized weekly with
liquid cow manure, such as was used with
lot one. All of these plants were placed In
eight^inch pots.
First and most important, the plants
grown in ordinary soil thrived best and pro-
duced the greatest number of buds. At this
writing they will average larger to a notice-
able degree than will the others. The effect
of the Floralis was injurious at first, but be-
cause too strong in application, though di-
rections were followed ; as a result one plant
was killed, and the foliage removed from
all. However, with reduced application,
three renewed their growth and, before the
season was over, yielded a fair showing of
buds. In both lots where cow manure was
used, more Roses were secured than from
the others. The flowers were extra fine in
all cases, but I have not at my disposal the
number of blooms produced by each lot.
The reason why sand was used in three
lots was to see if the effect of manure could
be better shown, where the soil was compar-
atively clear of fertilizing matter at the
start. In each case, the amount of liquid
manure applied was as nearly of the same
quantity and quality as I could make it.
The manure used was comparatively free
from straw. This work is still in progress,
and will be further reported on, so as to.be
accessible to those interested.
I cannot close without referring to another
fertilizer test, on a more practical basis. If
you please. A portion of one of our green-
house benches is planted with Roses. The
soil consists of turfy loam well mixed with
solid cow manure. Late last winter our
gardener, a rather intelligent negro, in-
formed me that he had heard that sheep
manure would make the plants show their
color, and begged me to secure him some.
In a short time a quantity was obtained and
made into a liquid and applied twice a week
to the Roses by Andy. Certain it is, our
Roses did unusually well last spring. I
shake my head in a questioning way as to
the responsibility of the sheep manure for
this, but Andy only laughs, and says :
" Sho', P'lessor ! Didn't I tell you that
sheep manure 'ud do it?"
1889.
POPULAR GARDENING.
47
THE COMPLETE GARDEN.'
X.XXI.
BY A WKl.L-KXOWN IIORTICl'LTrRIST.
{Continut'd from page 23.)
CLASSIFIED LIST OP IIARUV FLOWER.S,
rONTIKrEI).
CI.ASS3. TTsnally from two to four feet In height.
Fur Key to SehctUin sec September Issue.
[Note.— B.V an error in i)roof rcmiiiitr, last
month, Cla^ - was described a9ombrae-in>? plants
" from one to three feet in height." it should
have read, " from one to two feet." Ed.]
Ifame Color. Season,
f Aca.uth\is{Bear'sBrecch)
liurpk ete.Ju]y. Sept.
(J Achillea (Milfoil)
maerophyllum — white June, Jul}'
millefolium rosea, ruse July, dtt.
ptarmiea fl. pi. able white July, Sept.
Aconitum {Monhshood)
B autumnalis . .pale blue... Sept. Oct.
Anchusa (But/loss)
D Italica ItflW Wii< ..May, Aug.
AnemoneiW imlFlower)
r Japonica rosy jmjji/f Au(r. Oct.
A .laponica alba {Hono-
rine Jobeii white Sept. Oct.
D Anthcricum Liliago
{St. Bernard'sLilU' white . .May, Sept
liliastrum major w/iite Maj'.Sept.
Aquilegia (Cohtmbine)
I! ch.vsantha golden June, July
Artemesia abrotanum
iSnuthern-u'ooci) . . green, yellow
f Aruudinaria fol. var.
(Ribbon Grass)
g Asphodelus l.il8p/io<JeJ)
albus white...
luteus yellow . .
Aster (Stanvortt
B Amellus I'toW purpteSept. Oct.
Other species imrpk etc Sept. Nov.
e h Astragulus (Mil}(Vetch)yell(rw etc .June, July
Ralsamita (Costmary)
grandiflora yellow ..May, June
HaptisiaAustralia(Fa!«e
Iniligo) blue June,July
y Brodiiea congesta — lilcK May, July
Campanula Bell Flower
A persicifolia fl pi . double fth/eJune.Aug.
numeroussorts.. .bhie, white,
etc June, Sept.
C pyramidalis biucidftitejuly, Sept.
D Cassim A mericanSenna)
Marilandica :brigM j/cJtott'July,.Aug
Catananche cajruiea. blue- June, Sept.
Centaurea iKnapweed)
dealbata. lilac June
macrocephala yellow June
Montana violet May, July
Montana alba white May, July
TJ Centranthus (Fa(cria»i)
ruber red June, July
ruber var albo white . . June, July
C'helone Lyonii pink Aug Sept.
obliqua albo icMte Aug'. Sept.
Clematis erecta white . . June
integrifoiia blue and
white .. . June, July
B tubulosa .purple July, Aug.
Coreopsis (Tick-seed
Su nfloieer)
c lanceolata yellow Jul.v. Sept.
verticellata yellow July, Sept. '
priecox yelloic ... Aug.
li Coronilla varia fWiJd
Pea) bluish June, July
C Desmodium penduli-
Sept. Oct.
Aug.
May, July
May, July
rose
florum
A Dicentra spectabilis
(Bleeding Heirt) . .rosy crim«onMay,June
c Dictamaus (Fraxinella)
fra.\inella alba . white . June, July
fraxinella rubra rose. June, July
c Digitalis (Fozgloi'e) .various .. June, Jul.v
C Doronicum caucasiuraydtow .. .May, June
Dracocephalum (/Va- j
gons Head)
D Kuyschianum .. . .purplish
blue July
A Echinacea purpurea
(Cone Flower) reddish . July, Sept. I
D Echinops ritro (Globe !
Thistlei ..blue July, Sept
e Epilobium ( iViUow
Berb) ...
angustlfolium mogento.. June, July
•Copyright, 1S87, Popular Gardening Publishing Co.
Erigeron macranthus.piopfc . . . .June, July
speciosa lavender. .June, Sept.
Eryngium (Sea Holly)
amethystinum .. rfecp Wuc July, Aug.
EupatoriumiSjiaJfciJooO
ageratoides white .. . July, Oct.
Euphorbia coroUata
(Flou'cringSinirge).. white ....July, Oct.
Fritillari
i m perialis(rro«)»iJm -
perial) various .. April, May
Meleagris (Quinea-
Hen Flower) iiaruow . . April, May
pudica (Golden Frit-
illtnin ,1,11, ,ir \i.ril. May
SPRING SNOWFLAKE Lcucojum Vemum.
D
.July, Aug.
Funkia (Plantain Lily)
Ciurulea blu^
Gaillardia
B aristata grandiflora oranoe, redjuly, Sept.
B Gladiolus in sorts ..various ...
Helenium Hoopesii orange . June, July
Hemerocalis (DayLily)
A SaYa(l'eUowDayLily)lemon .June, July
C in variety various June, Aug.
A i Iris Ka;mpferi (Japan
Iris) variojis July, Aug.
A Lilium ( Lilium)
in variety Dorioiw .... June, Sept.
i e Lobelia eardinalis{(7or-
dinal Flower) scarlet ... .July, Sept.
Lychnis ( Campion )
B chalcedonica in va-
riety various — June, Sept.
e Lysimachia thyrsiflorayei'iJU' July, Aug.
Malva (Mallow)
C moschataalba . white . July, Sept.
D alcaea (Garden Mal-
low) rosc-pi/rp/eJuly, Sept.
Morenii rosy blush June, July
Monarda didyma (Os
wego Tea) scarlet. . . July, Sept.
Paeony Herbaceous in
large assortment — various. ..May, July
Papaver (Perennial
Poppy) in variety . scarlet, etc June.Aug.
Penstemon barbatus scarlet. July, Sept.
Phalaris<('anary Gra.ss)
arundinaiia picta .
Phlox, Herbaceous va-
rieties . . ..various
Physostegia ( Dranon
Head )
virginica reddish
Polygonatum (Solo-
mon's Seal) .. . .
multiflorum .. white .
Pyrethrum (Feverfew)
single and double. .red, white
B
June, July
-July, Sept.
July, Aug.
May, June
I
etc June, Oct.
Ranunculus (Crowfoot)
C acris 11 pi (Douh'c) yellow. .. May, June
Salvia (Saae)
various Zj/ue etc .. June, Aug.
c Solidago (Crolden Rod)
various .yellow. . July, Oct.
Spinea (Meadoio Sweet)
B anincus(GoatBread)white etc June, July
C fllipendula fl pi i(7ii(c . June, July
A palmata rosy crim-
son ... July. Aug.
ulmaria white .. July, Aug.
C venusta rose July, Aug.
Statice latifolia . .. b «« .. July, .\ug.
Symphytum (Comfrey)
f asperrimum blue ...May, June
/ officinale fol var lilac, red . . May, June
Thalictrum (Meadow
Rue)
e several species white May, July
Tricyrtis hirta white purple.Sept. Oct.
C Valeriana officinalis
(Garden Heliotrnpe). whitish. . .June, July
Veronica longifolia... vio'et.. ..July, Sept.
A f Yucca fllamentosa
(Adam's JVeed(e,Spa-
nish Bayonet) white July
(To he Ojntinued.)
Naturally Crown Chrysanthemums
for Exhibition.
Mr. J. Doughty, an English expert Chrys-
anthemum grower recently gave to the
National Chrysanthemum Society's Con-
ference his experience in the treatment
of plants grown for the production of ex-
hibition flowers. Much depends upon
the strength of the plants, the firmness
of the wood, and the treatment they have
hitherto received, says Mr. Doughty.
Suppose that the plants have been
well cultivated and are now strong and
healthy, so that the wood is well solid-
ified, and that they have their buds in
various stages of development. The ap-
plication of a rich top dressing is a
matter of the greatest importance. We
top-dress our plants at the end of .Inly or
early in August, a space of two inches
being left at the final potting for this pur-
pose. About an inch of the material to be
used is placed upon the surface of the pots
and pressed down rather firmly, the ap-
plication being made when the soil in the
pots is moderately dry, so that it does not
work into a paste. The mixture used for
top dressing consists of one part of loam,
one part of decayed manure, a small quantity
of old mortar, and a sprinkling of bone meal.
For some time afterwards the plants are
watered with a can, to which a rose is affixed
to avoid the risk of the top dressing being
washed out of its place, or, indeed, being
greatly disturbed. WTiatever feeding the
plants may have had previous to this sur-
face dressing should be continued after-
wards as the top-dre.ssing has no immediate
effect nnless a fertilizer of quick action be
added to it. But the action of manure that
will act rapidly, I do not think real neces-
sary, although I used it previous to last year.
Now if the surface material be examined
about three or four weeks after its applica-
tion, strong healthy roots will be found
working their way through it, and when the
time arrives for housing the plants, the sur-
face will be seen to be more or less covered
with these healthy, vigorous feeders. If
prolonged dull wet weather sets in, manures
must now be used more sparingly, so as not
to cause too quick a growth, or the flower
stems will be weak and the blooms lacking
in substance. We use fertilizer at the rate
of about one ounce to each plant of the
strongest growing varieties, such as Fair
Maid of Guernsey, Graudiflorum, Maiden's
Blush, Princess of Wales and its sports, and
the Queen family. The latter I consider
the greatest feeders of all. In the case of
weaker growing varieties, such as Meg Mer-
rilles. Criterion, Jeanne Delaux, Lady Har-
dinge and Mrs. W. Shipman we use the
manure more sparingly, about % ounce to
each plant being a very suitable quantity.
This rate of feeding is continued after the
formation of the flower buds, with an occa-
sional watering with liquid manure from
the cess pool, as an occasional change of
food is, I believe, very beneficial to them.
The water used is previously placed in a
large tub standing in the open, fully exposed
to atmospheric influences; hence it is main-
tained at a somewhat similar temperature
to that of the soil about the roots. As a still
further assistance to the plants, a bag con-
taining soot is placed in this tub. This bag
is refilled with soot about once a fortnight,
and the goodness is found to be washed out
of the soot in about that period. The plants
48
POPULAR GARDENING.
November,
are fed In this way until the blooms com-
mence to expand, when all feeding ceases,
exceeding when the bloom is late, when a
little sulpha-e of ammonia is applied. But
I do not advise the use of the sulphate, ex-
cepting for the purpose of assisting in bring-
ing forward late varieties: as it tends to
shorten the durabilty of the blooms after
expansion.
Mildew is a most troublesome disease, and
generally makes its appearance with us
early in September. Sometimes it attacks
the plants earlier, and this season they were
MARTAGON OR TURK'S CAP LILY. »'if Preccdiltg Payc.
at his command for housing them. These
are important points which will repay a little
study, and certainly cannot be ignored by
those who would achieve success in com-
petition.
Having stated how our late varieties are J
treated, I will allude to the general collec-
tion. The earliest varieties, which require
very little fire-heat, )'. e., only sufficient to
maintain a dry atmosphere, are placed in an
early vinery: and those that are naturally a
little later, are arranged upon the centre
stage of the greenhouse. All are raised as
near to the glass as pos-
sible, by means of planks
laid upon the drain pipes
placed in an upright posi-
tion upon the stage. The
plants are placed upon
the platform thus pro-
vided, the tallest plants
being arranged at the
back, and the dwarf ones
ones towards the front.
The plants nearest the
front are raised by means
of various sized flower
pots, so that, when all is
complete, they form a
very sharp slope to the
south. By this arrange-
ment, the upper growth
of every plant receives a
full share of light and air
—a matter of great impor-
tance if good blooms are
for purposes other than protecting trees and
plants from rabbits.
attacked at the end of August. Chrysan- i expected. Again, every bud can be seen
themums in a low lying spot are more sub-
ject to its attacks than are those grown in
gardens occupying a higher and drier situa-
tion. On Its first appearance every plant is
dusted with flowers of sulphur, usually early
in the morning, when the leaves are wet
with dew, as the sulphur will then adhere to
the under surface. This is a very important
point, as the rain cannot remove it from the
under surface as it does from the upper sur-
face. We seldom have to repeat its applica-
tion, and I have not on any occasion since
adopting this practice, been troubled with
mildew after housing the plants. Black-fly
is very troublesome with us every season
about this time. To eradicate this pest we
dust with tobacco powder immediately it
makes its appearance. Also after the plants
are housed, and before the blooms com-
mence to expand, we fumigate slightly two
or three times to free the plants from aphis
that may remain.
Much depends upon the time the plants
are housed; especially the late varieties. As
to the time of flowering, I do not care so
much whether such varieties as Bonle d'Or,
or Grandiflorum and the like, or their
buds early in August or at the end of the
month. Their blooms can be expanded by
the middle of November. Last season I took
Boule d'Or buds on September 1, and the
Grandiflorum buds on September S, and ex-
hibited them both in good form on Novem-
ber V2. These, with such varieties as the
Princess of Teck and its sports, Barbara and
Thunberg, should lie housed earlier, and
placed in a favorable position. The above
varieties, with others correspondingly late,
are placed on the side stages of the green-
house immediately over the hot water pipes,
and by means of large flower pots are raised
as near to the glass as possible. These re-
ceive a little sulphate of ammonia twice a
week, and when the solar influences are not
favorable, a little artificial heat must be ap-
plied. The cultivator must use his own
judgment as to the time of housing his plants,
taking into consideration the locality in
which he resides, and the state of the buds
(whether late or early), and also what means
when the cultivator is standing in front of
them, so that, should they require attention,
a plant or two can easily be removed for
that purpose.
Another important point is arranging the
colors on the exhibition board. I have
noticed scores of stands arranged with some-
times as many as four, and even six blooms
of a bronze or other shade placed together.
This is not as it should be, for by a judicious
intermingling of the light and dark shades
of color, each bloom will add to the effect
of its neighbor, and consequently to the at-
tractions of the exhibition table. It may
also make all the difference between a first
or second place in a close competition.
Rabbits.
Protecting Trees Against
JOH.V M. STAHL, ADAMS CO., N. Y.
I have always found an application of
grease and blood to the trunks ample pro-
tection for young trees against rabbits, and
rabbits are numerous hereabouts.
The only drawback to this applica-
tion is that the rains wash it off, and
of course it must be repeated as often
as removed. However, three applica-
tions during the winter are the
most I have ever found it necessarj'
to make. I think those who have
reported this application not to be
effectual, have failed to keep it on—
have not renewed it when removed by
the weather. When I first used this
application {almost or quite twenty
years ago) I was assured that it would
not be effectual unless I used livers;
but I have found that the rabbits
detest the blood and fat. no matter from
what part of the body it comes. The
refuse from the slaughter house costs
nothing, or perhaps that from your home
butchering will be suificient. The meat
should be fresh, and the bloodier and fatter
it is the better. You can rub fast, but should
rub carefully, that no large spots may be
missed. Rabbits can be kept out by a wire
netting fence put down to the ground; and
as this is a durable fence, it will often
be advisable to use it where a fence is needed
Winter Storage of Celery.
M. GAHRAIIAN. HZERNE CO. .PA.
Perhaps there is no question that causes
the average market gardener more perplex-
ity than the constantly recurring one of how
best to store his crop of Celery for winter
sales. If we only knew what kind of a win-
ter we were going to have, we would know
how much covering to put on the trenches
to be just enough, so the Celery will neither
be spoiled by freezing, if too little for an un-
usually cold season, nor by rotting if too
much for an unusally mild one.
To be as far as possible independent of the
contingencies of weather, some have gone to
considerable expense in the erection of out-
door cellars, with sawdust-filled double
roofs, side walls of stone, (laid with cement
mortar, to exclude rats) and ventilators in
the roof, to permit the escape of heat and
moisture. The expense, however, bas been
such in some cases as to cause the builders to
a.sk the question, whether or not the "game
was worth the powder."
The following plan has been practiced in
this neighborhood for ten years, and prob-
ably longer, and in other localities as well.
Instead of a trench a foot in width, we
throw out a trench lour feet wide, putting
half the dirt on each side to facilitate cover-
ing. The trenches are just far enough apart
to drive between and unload trom each side.
A board is run through the center of the
trench to prevent the Celery from crowding
together too closely, the upper edge about
level with the top of theCelery. I find if not
packed too tight, it will keep longer without
rotting. The trench is dug two feet deep,
more or less. Now rafters are cut from 2x4
Hemlock, or Chestnut, at an angle that will
bring the peak or ridge 4 feet from bottom
of the trench. Generally, three boards, a
foot wide, will cover each side. The rafters
can be made ready at odd times through the
summer and will last a long time if taken
care of. Ventilators are also made from
common fence boards, and in severe weath-
er stuffed full of litter to exclude frost.
For about two weeks after storing. Celery
will "sweat" and throw off a great deal
of moisture, we therefore slip the roof on as
soon as we can, after the trench is filled to
keep off rain, and leave the other covering
as long as we dare. At the approach of real
cold weather we smiply put on each side
about a foot of earth. With rafters 4 feet
WINTER STORAGE OF CELERY.
apart, we have no trouble with the root set-
ting under its weight.
The advantages of this plan are that one
can store Celery as fast as he could in ordin-
ary trenches, much faster than carrying it
"down cellar." Can take it out any time,
or in any kind of weather, and last, but not
least, insure immunity from rats as we take
it up and plow the ground level in the spring,
and then we have a lot of lumber inthe fall
that has been used for banking up so that
it don't seem to cost much money.
POPULAR GARDENING
AND FRUIT GROWING.
"ACCUSE NUT XATURE, SHE HATH DONE HER PART: DO THOU BUT THINt:." -Miuios.
Vol. V.
IDEC!E3S.a:BEia, ISSS.
No. 3.
Moan on, ye cold and winter winds,
A^nst the frosted window-panes;
Ye cannot cliange the love that binds.
With strong and fervent chains.
The heart that beats and never wanes.
Lash In your might the aged tree.
Spare not his form, though bending low,
Xur let a leaf there clinging be:
But blow, ye winds, and blow.
Ye cannot change the heart In me.
—Arthur's Home Magazine.
Orchids Misnamed. English Journals complain
of the practice of Orchid growers to tack the
word "alba" (white) to one-half of all the flow-
ers that show the least bit of white. It is certain-
ly a gross misuse of words, if not an utter ab-
surdity to call a flower "alba," and then describe
its color as " primrose."
Seed Control Station. We see no necessity for
such Institutions in this country. Lively coinpe-
tition between live seedsmen tends to keep the
seeds offered by all reasonably free from injurious
admixtures. Each grower can protect himself
by patronizing only reliable dealers whose seeds
he finds up to the mark. We are only too apt to
put our reliance in the fostering care of our
Government in such matters.
Prof. G. H. Cook. The loss of Prof. George H.
Cook, whose sudden death of heart failure oc-
curred on Sept. 22d of this year at New Bruns-
wick, N. J., wiU lie severely felt by all progress-
ive tillers of the soil. It leaves a blank that it
wUl not be easy to flU. Under his management
the New Jersey .Agricultural Experiment Station
has become one of the leaders, and accomplished
results of far more than average value. To his
untiring energy a large share of the advancement
of poptilar knowledge on the value and use of
commercial fertilizers, among other things,is due.
We shall miss his advice and instructions always
so willingly given when applied to for it. The
genial face of Geo. H. Cook will not easil.v fade
from our memory.
HoRTicin.TURE Meetings. The meeting'season
is again upon us. December starts in well. The
Michigan and Missouri State Societies hold their
meetings on December 3d to .')th, the former in
Hart, Oceana Co., Mich., the latter in Lebanon,
Laclede Co., Mo. The New Jersey horticulturists
usually meet week before Christmas in Trenton,
those of Western New York last week in Jan-
uary in Kochester. Time and place of all State
meetings will be announced in our columns as
soon as we are informed about time and place.
We urge our readers to attend as many of these
meetings as may be convenient. They afford
rare chances of mind culture, and this is as
profitable as the culture of anything we might
name, fruit not excepted. As a mind stimulant
nothing can be better for the horticulturist than
to attend a live herticultural meeting.
The Seed Division Humbug. Mr. Colman
in one of his last reports of the Agricultural
Department recommended the transfer of the
seed distribution feature from the Department
to the Experiment stations. If this suggestion
had been properly acted upon, it would have
removed the seed division from immediate Con-
gressional interference, and perhaps resulted in
its reform i. e. return to its original aims and
purposes. We had expected that the present
Secretary of Agriculture would go a step further,
and in the desire to rid the Department, in
its new dignity and elevation, of this old and
generally recognised abuse and stigma, recom-
mend to Congress the entire abolition of the
scandalous farce. Instead of this, Mr. Rusk has
made a retrograde movement, and announces in
his first report, just published, that he has put
more energies than any of his predecessors into
this unpopular and absurd institution. We do
not believe that the secretary will have the sym-
pathy and support of the intelligent farmer in
any such proceeding; and are sure that the
efforts of the Department might be expended
in a much more profitable and satisfactory way.
Breaking the Sugar Trust. A western
agricultural paper is trying to induce its sub-
scribers and all other people that may wish to
join in the crusade against the monopoly, to
abstain from the use of sugar beginning Decem-
ber 1st, and continue this for such a length of
time as will be necessary to bring the sugar
trust to terms. Such a course might be tried,
although we have not much confidence in its suc-
cess. What we would like to see— and this seems
to us eminently in the interest of horticulture-
is to see the American people restrict themselves
in the use of sugar. Not only that we as a nation
consume five times the (juantity of rich pastry
and sweet meats that is good for our stomachs
and teeth, but we have also got into the habit of
smothering the fine fruit flavors and aromas — of
the Strawberries and other berries. Peaches, etc.
—in an overabundance of sugar. We have thus
not only increased the consumption of sugar to
an unprecedented amount per capita, but also
deprive ourselves of the real enjoyment, and the
best sanitary effects of some of our choicests
horticultural products. Where people would
eat and enjoy two quarts of Strawberries with-
out sugar, and thus get all the beneficial medical
effects from them, they get tired of the excessive
sweetness of the Strawberry and sugar mixture,
and perhaps may not be induced to eat a pint of
the fruit. We do wish that trust-struck sugar
were much less in demand and use.
Change the Rose Soil.
The secret of success in Rose culture, in
the main, is this: A frequent renewal of the
soU. Among the best Rose growers the
faith in merely a rich garden earth, how-
ever highly tilled and augmented with
special manures, for this favorite flower is
on the wane, while faith in new soils, fresh
sites and farm-yard manure grows stronger
day by day.
Could the Rose bed be moved to a new
location periodically as in effect is done by
those who force Roses for cut flowers, the
course would be simple enough. This being
impracticable in the ordinary out-door cul-
ture of private gardens, we may, instead,
resort to the very effective substitute of
applying heavy dressings of fresh soil peri-
odically to the Rose beds. To do this read-
ily it is best to remove part of the surface
soil of the bed in the autumn, and forking
in the fresh earth as deeply among the roots
as practicable, with as little destruction of
the roots as possible.
As to the nature of the freshening earth,
nothing better could be used than the upper
layer, say six inches deep, from the turf of a
pasture lot or of the road side. This earth
could be applied directly after being some-
what divided by handling. Rather a better
course would be to prepare it a year in
advance by adding to it one-sixth of the
bulk of good stable manure, piling the two
substances up in alternate layers.
But what of insects on Roses some one will
say? Fortify the plants with the vigor that
comes from right feeding at the roots, and
you will know much less of the attacks of
these pests.
Debilitated plants are the first choice of
insects.
Pruning Thorny Bushes.
ERWIN HALTMAN, MAHONING CO., OHIO.
As to the time of cutting out the old wood
from Raspberry and Blackberry bushes I
have now pretty much
settled on fall. I always
like to "slick up" my
small fruit patches be-
fore winter, and have
every plant in good
shape, pruned and sup-
ported by a stake. The
question with me has
always been how to cut
out and remove the
tough prickly canes of
Blackberries. At last
I had the blacksmith
transform an old file
in a hook, weld an iron
rod to it, and fix a han-
dle on other end, giving
me a tool as shown in
accompanying sketch.
Of course the edge of
the hook is kept sharp,
and it works to my entire satisfaction. With
such a firm and comfortable hold on the
tool one can work for days without the least
fatique, and if the hand is gloved with per-
fect comfort. The old wood after being cut
out of the hills is simply left to decay.
There will be little of it left next season.
Pruner for Tlwrny
Bushes.
The Private Grounds of C. A. Dana.
PETER HE.VDERSON. JERSEY CITY, N. J.
About three miles from the Glen Cove
station on the Long Island railroad are the
residence and grounds of Chas. A. Dana,
Esq., the proprietor of the Xew York Sun.
In company with a number of gentlemen
eminent in horticulture, six hours of un-
flagging interest was most delightfully
spent in the examination of the horticul-
tural wonders of this charming place,
which in variety and beauty of individual
specimens of its trees and shrubs has cer-
tainly no equal in the United States, if in
Europe. Although the specimens of trees
and shrubs form the prominent feature, yet
everything necessary to complete a gentle-
man's private grounds is to be found here,
whether it be in fruits, flowers, or vegetables.
Everything new and rare, as soon as it is
heard of, is ordered and is subjected to a
comparative test.
Mr. Dana's manager is your correspon-
dent, William Falconer. Mr. Falconer is
not only an enthusiastic botanist, but every
operation of his immense charge indicates
a thorough knowledge of horticulture, in
every department, showing him to be
thoroughly up in the most commonplace
work of the garden as well as in its most
scientific branches. Mr. Dana's grounds
are in some respects a private experiment
garden, and the results as given to the
public so freely and fearlessly by Mr. Fal-
coner, I venture to say are of more value to
horticulture than that of any experimental
station in the country. His field is far more
varied, and the versatility of his knowledge
derived from the practical study of horti-
culture for twenty-five years in the best
working schools of Europe and America,
makes him perhaps without a peer in his '
50
POPULAR GARDENING.
December,
profession. But few men have had the
opportunities that Mr. Falconer has had.
Mr. Dana most heartily .seconds and en-
courages him, and his own thorough know-
ledge not only of the nomenclature but of
the nature of the collection forming his
grand arboretum, is such that he can fully
appreciate the work that Mr. F.doesso well.
That the indulgence in such fancies must
be costly to the owner, there can be no
question, for it is kept
solely for the pleasure
it gives to himself and
his friends, but that it
"pays" few can doubt
that ever saw Mr. Dana
amongst his treasures. His
ela.stic step, erect and mus-
cular form give him the
appearance of an English
hunting squire rather than
a man engaged in literary
work — much of which is
undoubtedly due to his
interest in rural atf airs that
necessitates his presence
in the pure air and sun-
shine of his grounds at
Glen Cove. The wonder is
that so few gentlemen own-
ing country seats take so
little personal interest in
their grounds. Depend
upon it, the man or woman
either that has made a
study of horticultural
work, so as to give him or
her sufficient interest to
be some portion of the day
amongst it, will be well
repaid not alone from the
pleasure derived from it,
but from the physical and
mental vigor as well. No
occupation is more con-
ducive to health; there is
just exercise enough in the
work without being op-
pressive to the body, and
the never-ending variety of
nature's productions in the
garden or grounds, which
can best be seen in the open
air and sunshine gives a
soothing and healhty toneto
the mind that no product of art under roof-
covering can give.
freezing and burning has much 'the same
effect on most things, so that we may not
account for the sudden attacks of blight on
Pear trees in summer, to excessive heat,
when the atmosphere is very humid. It is
much like scalding in that case. Not one-
fourth of a mile from these trees so dam-
aged, and at an elevation of about 200 feet,
fifty Pear trees, about the same age of these
here, and nearly the same varieties, escaped
Judge Miller's Fruit Notes and
Review.
Now that another season has gone by, the
question arises among us horticulturists,
what have we learned within this year?
How many new fruits have proven to be
equal to what was claimed for them? What
knowledge have we gained?
Effects of Frost. One thing I have
learned to my sorrow, Is what terrible work
a frost, at the time when the young Pears
were the size of ordinary Cherries, could do
DAHLIA BARKERI/E. See "History r,f the Dahlia,'' page
the frost, and also remained free from blight,
with the exception of one Bartlett tree at
the southwest corner of the orchard, and
where the forest ends that borders the
orchard on the north and west. I forgot to
mention that a tree of the Garber Pear, in
the orchard here, fully exposed, was not
effected by frost nor blight.
The Chinese Peaks. The three new
Pears, Kieffer, Garber, and Le Conte are in
my opinion first cousins, and while the two
first-named are valuable here, I think they
are the foundation for a more hardy and
healthy class of Pears than the ordinary
run. That the Le Conte blights too bad
among fruit and foliage on the trees here i here to warrant its planting is a fact, so far
on the river bottom, or rather in a little
vale one hundred yards from the river bank.
This frost made my Pear trees look as though
a fire had passed through irregularly.
Many limbs, as large as a broom handle,
never sent out a fresh leaf, others made a
feeble attempt to recover, but in the end
failed. On the same footing the trees were
very differently affected. One Bartlett, one
Clapp'sFavorite, three Doyenne d' etes, have
gone under, dead to the ground. While the
Bloodgood, Kieffer, Easter Beurre, Seckels
were scarcely affected. One large Sheldon,
one Bartlett; and Beurre Clairgeau were
somewhat hurt, but may recover. I
Now, if that frost was not the cause of all
this trouble, I would like if some one can
tell what else it was. We all know that I
as I have been able to learn; but if it does so
well in the south, and they can ship the fruit
north when it commands a paying price;
there is the place to grow them.
The Kieffer is roundly condemned as unfit
to eat by many, for which we should extend
charity, but for my own use I deem it about
as valuable a Pear as we have. That it is
not quite equal to a Bartlett or Seckel all
will admit, but if 1 had the three in prime
at the same time, believe I would eat about
as many Kieffers as of the others. Wheu
this latter is in its prime, it has a sprightli-
ness and a flavor that is refreshing, and for
preserving or making jelly there is none to
equal it. Garber is a month earlier and is,
to my taste, a little better, larger, and a
most beautiful fruit.
I A Pear that will sell readily at 50 cents
per dozen, right in the Pear season, is worth
i growing, particularly when a young tree
bears four full crops in succession, as mine
has done. I have no Pear trees to sell, hence
no axe to grind in thus lauding these new
ones, but wish to see Pear trees plenty that
can take care of themselves, and are not
sub.iect to blight, which is the great draw-
back to this fruit's successful culture. It
is a variety that will give
yoti Pears.
Seedlings from these
varieties might bring out
somethinggrand, now why
don't .some younger men
than I plant their seeds
and try it? A lot of Kieffer
seedlings of the past sum-
mer that have grown nice-
ly, and free from leaf rust,
which usually ruined all
my Pear seedlings, are
budded with Idaho. It is
destined to make its mark
in the world. I have eaten
the fruit twice, and consider
it a treasure. Trees grow-
ing here two years have
shown no signs of blight.
Grape Rot. The grow-
ing of Grapes here has just
come to this.that if we want
Grapes to ripen, the bunch-
es must be put in paper
sacks as soon as the berries
are fully formed. The solu-
tions recommended for
spraying the trees and fruit,
have, in several instances,
here failed, and in several
other cases the foliage of
the vines was injured.
Even if I can keep the rot
off, the fruit is in danger
from insects and birds.
Among the former a species
of Curculio is nearly as bad
on the Grapes here as on
the Plums. My Marsalas
that never rotted before, I
thought were rotting this
season, when a close ex-
amination found that
every berry that had
turned the wrong color had a worm in
it. Sacking is proof against all these
enemies, and will keep the fruit safe on the
vines weeks after they are fully ripe, and
would spoil it exposed to the weather. Some
say that Grapes thus hidden in sacks do not
color up well and that they are deficient
in flavor, which however, I have not yet
experienced.
Curculio. Is there any cure for this vill-
ians attack? Only one sure remedy and that
is to catch them, by jarring the trees, having
a cloth under the trees to catch them, an,d
kill them. It is not hard to smoke the trees,
or spray with something that will drive
them off until a rain comes and washes the
remedy off. Then they will come back
again. I have tried the latter plans, but
found that it must be repeated so often that
one is sure to neglect it, sooner or later.
If a whole community would join in the
warfare, in a few years the enemy might be
so near exterminated that raising Plums
would be easy. Last spring I did nothing
to my Plum trees: hence had no Plums
except Wild Goose, which is a big nothing
with us. Bushels rot under the trees. The
Express Companies make it unprofitable to
ship them. Letting hogs and poultry run
in the Plum orchard will help to destroy the
Curculios, but it cannot be depended upon.
That there is a Curculio-proof Plum I know,
the Golden Beauty, but the marks they
make on the fruit mars its beauty.
6.3.
1889.
POPULAR GARDENING.
51
A Few Good Chrysanthemums.
FRED \V. CAUn, TOMPKINS CO., N. T.
It is very (litlicult for one unaquainted
with varieties to select from a catnlofiue
seeils or plants of any kind suited to his
wants. HavinK this in mind I have noted a
few ont of the .">u varieties of Chrysanthe-
mums growing in the Cornell University
conservatories which happen to -suit my
taste, and would give a Kood collection
of colors to any one wanting but few
plants: !<n(>U(]ni. pure white; X Mas
Eve, cream, EdiKt Crniij, white, pink tinge;
QUirinitiim, bright yellow; Mdtl. Andignicr,
pink; Jupiter, wine color; CuUinijforclia,
dark (dark mahogany crimson).
To these perhaps I mightadd: \cUicBlij.
dark yellow; Lady SUule, pink incurved
(large Rose shaped blossoms). While there
are no doubt many others in the collection
equally good, or even better, which might
take preference with another taste, I think
these would make an entirely satisfactory
collection.
Notes from the Popular Gardening
Grounds at La Salle-on-the-
Niagara.
Beautiful Celery.— yfe have been much pleased
with the Bouquet Celery sent out last Spring by
Peter Henderson & Co., of New York. It is a
dwarf or half-dwarf variety of strong, compact,
healthy growth, equal in flavor and crispness to
the best, and in beauty of foliage far surpassing
anything we have ever seen in the Celery line.
No doubt about its being rightly named-
Bouquet. It would seem to be an ideal sort tor
" soup "' Celery, and we can justly recommend it
for trial to gardeners who grow Soup Celerj' in
cold frames.
Another good sort, especially valuable for
home use, is the New Rose, introduced, we be-
lieve, by the same firm as the Bouquet. In
quality it has no superior, in growth it is strong
and healthy, and its delicate pinkish color makes
it a favorite on our table. As a market sort it
has the same fate as other red varieties— it is not
as much in demand as the white sorts.
Kalamazoo seems to resemble Golden Heart,
at least we did not notice much difterence be-
tween them, and both sorts are good and reliable,
both for home use and market.
Our White Plume behaved somewhat strange-
ly this season. The self-bleaching feature of
this sort appeared in a much less pronounced
degree than we were accustomed to see, but
whether this is owing to th-^ peculiar atmos-
pheric conditions of the season, or to the natural
tendency of a self-bleaching sort of reverting to
its original type, we are unable to say.
Under our mode of cultivation we have always
been fortunate enough to obtain Celery of un-
surpassed sweetness and brittleness. What we
BOUQUET CELERY,
would like to know is this : to what extent qual-
ity and tenderness of Celery is influenced by
feeding with different manures, how much by
cultivation, and how much by variety? We
have tried a good many varieties, but never yet
have grown the great, coarse, hollow, tough
stalks that we find on cit5' hotel tables. And in
particular, does nitrate of soda tend to produce
brittleness in this and other vegetables ?
I'rntnits fur the jy<irt/i.— Wo have once more
tried a inimlicrof Peanut varieties, although not
with much confidence in our ability to obtain a
paying crop, I'cirtunately, fur he who e.\iiects
little will not Ik' diaaiipointccl. The conditions of
soil and sua.si>ii were almut as unfavorable as
they could well be. The common Peanut of our
stores (Virginia Peanut) and Faust's Improved
Griiund-nut entirely
failed to set fruit, but
the Spanish and
Maule's Improved
Peanut. — which seem
to be identical ma-
tured at least a few -'~^^.
specimens. On suit- ^-r- z^ '^
able soil (ours was too
wet and heavy), and
in an avei-age season
there can be no doubt
that a fair crop of
Nuts can be obtained,
even in this latitude,
by planting these ear-
ly varieties. The pods
are small, but closely
tilled with a nut of
most excellent quali-
ty. In fact there is
no variety superior
to these in this rr-
spect, and we Bud that '
an extra price is asked
for this dainty sort at
our fruit stores. But
we do no intend to
attempt growing the
ordinary Virginia
Peanut again, at least
not so long as we live
north of Maryland.
But with early sorts
it is interesting.
i'lcet't Votatoes.—y^e
do not think we would
care to engage in
growing Sweet Pota-
toes for market in
this vicinity; yet our
season's experience
with them shows that
there is nothing to
hinder the home gardener from producing all the
Sweet Potatoes he may want to use, the only
condition of success being that good plants be
set in warm and dry soil early in June, or as soon
as the ground has become thoroughly warm, and
be treated in the usual manner. Excessively
rich soil should be avoided, as also nitrogenous
manures on land already provided with sufBcient
vegetable matter. A high-grade complete fer-
tilizer—a special Potato manure, for instance-
can usually be reUed on for good results, and
only where the soil is somewhat thin would it be
necessary or advisable to apply yard compost.
When stimulated by rich soil or manure, the
plants are only too apt to expend their energies
in making vines. We have had hard work, on
former occassions. to keep the rines from rooting
all over the ground where the whole surface
was enriched, and for this reason now always
apply whatever fertilizer we use, in the hill only.
In fact this is the only crop tor which we omit to
apply at least a portion of the fertilizer broad-
cast, and practice hill application exclusively.
Of the three varieties we cultivated this year—
a yellow, a red, and a white one— contrary to
pre\-ious experience, the Yellow Nansemond
has done by far the l)est. The red ( Ked Jersey)
last year, and the year before, had given us so
much nicer tubers, and larger crops, than the
Yellow Nansemond, that we were quite disap-
pointed in it this year. This might have been
merely accidental, and we shall not yet reverse
our former good opinion of the Red Jersey. The
white sorts. New Early Golden, Southern Queen,
etc. included - always ranked last in our favor,
and this year's test has not changed our opinion.
Praiius PimarAi. We have on several occa-
sions given expression to the high estimation in
which wc hold this tree. No matter what Mr.
McMillan may say against variegated or high-
colored foliage, we know that if properly set off, it
will make a most attractive bed or single subject.
In short it finds a place, and many people desire
to display foliage of just such exceedingly rich
color. Prunus Pissardi has merits in respect to
quality and price which should strongly recom-
mend it to all who wish to employ trees of high-
colored foliage. It is as rich as River's Purple-
leaved Beach ; but » hilc the latter is a" hard
subject to transplant, Prunus Pissardi trans-
plants as easily as any of our ordinary trees.
Ilut look at the price. A nice large specimen^of
Purple-lca\'ecl Reach will cost you several dollars;
Prunus Ptssardi can be had as cheap as a com-
mon Plum or Cherry tree. Like common Plum
trees the Pissardi blooms freely, and its white
PURPLE-LEAVED PLUM IN FLOWER.
flowers are well set off against the glossy
purple foUage. Its fruit is small, deep red or
purple, of rather inferior quality.
Fruits, The Catalogues Know
Nothing of.
There are thousands of good varieties of
Apples, Pears, Plums, Peaches and other
fruits which are not mentioned in the cata-
logues. Many of these have a wide local
reputation, and are grown extensively in
certain neighborhoods for market or special
purposes. There they have found environ-
ments, and conditions of soil and climate
specially suited to their wants. There they
are doing good in a quiet way without mak-
ing much ado about it. They are known
and appreciated in the local markets, and
the growers are doing well with them.
This, however, does not prove that they
would do as well, or be appreciated to the
same degree elsewhere. Some of them might
prove worthy of introduction and general
cultivation, but there is usually so much of
an element of uncertainty about the final
success, that it would be too much risk to
attempt introducing them. We have at
present a most excellent assortment of
fruits, and any new variety, to be worthy
of introduction, must combine a number of
points of superiority. But the facts stated
are often brought to our attention by the
specimens of " local celebrities " sent us for
examination by our kind friends.
Apples. Mr. John F. Rupp of Cumber-
land County, Pa., semis us specimens of two
local Apples, with the following description:
'■ The Streintown Pippin is one of our most
profitable varieties; it is an immense bearer
and a long keeper. Last year our row of
this variety produced an extraordinary
heavy crop, and this year the crop is remark-
ably good; the trees averaging fifteen
52
POPULAR GARDENING.
December,
bushels. Though the quality is not first-
class, being rather acid for an eating Apple,
for baking purposes it can not be surpassed.
They come in very nicely in February and
March. We have kept them perfectly until
the Middle of April, Our trees of this vari-
ety produce a fair crop every year. This
year nearly all of our Apples, consisting of
some fifty varieties, are an entire failure;
a few producing fair to good crops. The
Streintovvn Pippin, Boston Russett, York
Stripe, and Great Bearer are the only kinds
in the whole lot that are at all doing well;
last fall all varieties had an extra heavy
crop.
The small, red Apple I send is the " Great
Bearer." This is a sweet variety and pro-
duces wonderfully, the trees appearing like
a solid red mass of fruit. Last fall they
were literally covered with ,\pp!es, and this
fall they are nearly as full. Though they
are very good as an eating Apple in the win-
ter, their chief value is as a cider Apple.
Being a certain heavy bearer, this variety is
valued as the first for cider-making pur-
poses. Neither of these varieties have been
very widely disseminated, though they have
been grown twenty-five or more years in
this and ad.ioining counties."
Local Peach. During our recent visit at
the fruit farms in the northern part of this
county, and near Niagaraon-the-Lake, Can-
ada, we became acquainted with the Long-
hurst Crawford, a fine Peach of the Smock
type (probably a Smock Seedling) much
grown in that vicinity. Its quality is decid-
edly good. Our friend Henry Lutts tells us
that the tree is a remarkable bearer, never
missing a crop, and the fruit much esteemed
by canners. It was found in the garden of
a Mr. Longhurst some tliirty years ago.
Remedies For The Striped Cucum-
ber Beetle
We have met the enemy and we were
theirs — that is about the outcome of our last
season's experience with the striped Cu-
cumber beetle (i5(((7)rot((o vitiata). Altera
short and decisive fight we conceded our
utter defeat; but now think it is time we
should repair our weapons and prepare for
another test of strength.
In the first place it may be well to find out
by what methods and devices we can
not hope to conquer. In this respect we are
aided by a number of experiments made by
Mr. C. M. Weed, of the Ohio Experiment
Station, and reported in a recent bulletin of
that station. Mr. Weed comes to conclu-
sions, which, it may be hoped, will put for-
ever at rest the "infallable remedies"
which heretofore have been making the
rounds of the agricultural press every season.
The methods proposed for preventing the
injuries and depredations of this insect may
be divided into four classes, says Mr. Weed,
viz.: (1) Keeping away by strong odors,
supposed to be offensive to the beetles. (3)
Coating the plant with substances making
a mechanical barrier to their feeding. (3)
coating the plants with poisonous subtances.
(4) Fencing out the insects by enclosing the
plants inside some form' of tent or gauze-
covered frame.
Protection by Offensive Odors. It is
often stated that the injuries of the striped
beetle may be prevented by covering the
earth about the plants with hen manure.
Accordingly, 23 hills were given a liberal
application of this substance June 11. The
day following it rained, so that the manure
was put in as effective condition as it well
could be. The second day, however, the
beetles were working upon these hills in
great numbers, and the third day they had
ruined a large proportion of the plants.
Five hills were treated with cow manure
in the same manner as in the experiment
just described, but the results were but a lit-
tle better. The beetles did not seem affected
by the application.
It is frequently stated that the striped
beetle can be kept at bay by placing rags
saturated with kerosene on the hills. We
gave the method a thorough trial, but as
our results show it is of little practical value.
Bisulphide of carbon is occasionally rec-
ommended as a preventive of the injuries
of this insect. We tested it twice on three
hills, each time pouring it in holes in the
soil, closing them immediately. Wherever
the holes were made near the plants the
latter were injured by the bisulphide; and
in no case could any effect upon the number
of beetles be seen.
Carbolic acid was tried in the same
manner as the kerosene experiment, strips
of thick felt paper dipped in crude carbolic
acid being laid upon the hills, in the vicinity
of, but not in contact with the plants. The
results of this experiment were the most
promising of any of this class of preventives.
The beetles seemed very sensitive to the
odor, and only worked sparingly upon the
plants, which survived in fairly good condi-
tion, while neighboring plants, protected by
kerosene and other substances, were de-
stroyed. There is danger, however, of in-
juring the plant foliifge by using this sub-
stance. Wherever the plants were touched
by the paper strips the leaves were destroyed ,
and in some cases the fumes brought out
from the acid by the hot sun seemed to burn
the plants.
Protection by Mechanical Coatings.
But three substances of this class was tried;
coal soot, plaster and saltpetre. The latter
perhaps does not properly belong to this
class, but I place it here in lieu of some
better disposition to make of it.
The plants of five hills were covered with
coal soot, but it seemed to have little effect
upon the beetles which biu-ied themselves
in it repeatedly.
Gypsum or plaster was applied to 23 hills
with only partial success. The same diffi-
culty that was found in so many other cases
—that of the beetles working beneath the
soil surface and feeding upon the stem— was
experienced. To be most effective the plants
must be dusted when covered with dew. I
doubt whether this or any other substance
of a similar nature will be wholly successful
where the beetles are very abundant.
Saltpetre is frequently recommended as
a protection against the striped beetle.but its
value is very doubtful.
Coating With Poisonous Mixtures.
The only substances of this class used were
pyrethrum, slug shot and peroxide of sili-
cates.
Pyrethrum. When put on it killed many
of the beetles present, but it had only a tem-
porary effect, seeming to become innoxious
after a few hours, exposure to the air.
Slug shot was dusted on June 11, and
again the following morning while the leaves
were still wet with dew. June 14 the leaves
showed a decided injury due to the slug
shot alone. They had also been considera-
bly damaged by the beetles, which not only
worked upon the surface above groimd, but
went down in beside the stem and devoui-ed
it, frequently severing it completely. From
this experiment it appears unsafe to apply
this substance, at least in the proportions in
which it is now mixed, to the tender foliage
of young curcurbitaceous plants.
Peroxide of silicates was used freely on
a large number of hills, and obtained fairly
satisfactory results when the plants were
well started before the bugs attacked them.
It was applied with a Woodason bellows to
both surfaces of the leaves. But the trouble
with this, as with any other substance of
the kind, is that when the beetles are as
thick as they were in our fields, they will
dig down to meet the sprouting plants be-
fore they reach the soil surface. We found
this insecticide, however, of much value in
protecting the plants after the mechanical
barriers described below had been removed.
Doubtless Ijondon purple or Paris green,
diluted with flour or plaster, would have
done just as well.
Excluding by Mechanical Barriers.
One of the simplest and most successful
methods is that of placing the ends of half
a barrel hoop in the earth at the sides of the
hill, and then laying over it a square strip
of thin plant cloth or cheese cloth. The
edges of the cloth are then drawn taut and
covered with loose earth or small stones.
This excludes the beetles, and at the same
time allows access of air, moisture and sun-
shine. Squash plants are able to grow un-
til they get four or five leaves, and Cucum-
bers and Melons even more, before they are
crippled by contact with the cloth.
Instead of a barrel hoop, wire may be used.
On some of our hills we used a bent wire
with excellent results. Another way con-
sists simply of two pieces ot wire bent over
each other in the middle like the center arch
of a croquet ground. Of course the ends
are pushed into the soil and the cloth drawn
over and held down by loose earth as de-
scribed above. Good results were also ob-
tained by simply placing the cloth over the
plants without any standard, and covering
the edges as above. By loosening the cloth
occasionally it will not cripple the plants.
We also tried various forms of gauze-
covered boxes, which, however, have the
decided disadvantage of not allowing free
access of air and .sunshine, so that the plants
are liable to be slender and weakly, falling
an easy prey to the voracious beetles after
the protection is removed.
Water Bouquets.
Procure a glass shade or globe, and a glass
dish on which the shade will stand evenly.
A stand on a short pedestal so as to lift the
ornament somewhat up from the table is
best. Then proceed to arrange the flowers
and foliage in bouquet form, the stems be-
ing shortened and tied securely to some-
thing heavy, which will serve to keep the
flowers erect yet fixed to the stand. Next
get a large bath or tub, fill it full of clear
water, and high enough to not only fully
immerse the flowers, but to cover the shade
when placed over the bouquet.
Place the dish or stand at the bottom of
the tub, put the flowers unto it, in erect
form, then take the shade and lay it side-
ways in the water, the l)Ottom edge touching
the edge of the dish or stand on which the
flowers are placed. The shade must then be
gradually and very carefully brought over
the flowers so that no air is retained. It is
important that this act should be performed
quite beneath the water, as if air bubbles are
admitted the attempt must be repeated until
the experiment is successful. Small bou-
quets, and flowers of but two to three pleas-
ing color are best. Novices may well try
their hands first with a tiny bouquet beneath
a glass tumbler, and on a small plate. Such
bouquets are appropriate subjects for ex-
hibition at all flower shows.
Repairing Hot-bed Sash.
It not unfrequently happens that the tenon
at one of the corners of a sash rots off allow-
ing the sash to spread apart, or at least
rendering it very weak and shaky at that
point. Mr. J. N. Hibberd, of Erie County,
in a recent visit at our grounds, recom-
mended the following as a superior method
of repairing such a sash. A hole half-inch
or less in diameter is bored obliquely into
the end, as indicated in engraving. A peg
of sufficient length is then made to fit closely
into the hole. This peg is split at one end,
1889.
POPULAR GARDENING.
53
a we(lt;c lightly inserted as shown a ((, and
the pes driven in firmly, so that the wedge
is driven home at the same time, spreading
the inside end of peg. and giving the latter
a firm hold, as seen at /). The other end of
peg is now sawed off evenly with the out-
side, and another wedge driven in, as appear-
ing at c. The whole operation is as simple
as it is eflfective.
COMMENTS BY READERS.
A dfpartnunt to which all are inrited to send notes 0/
experience and observation concerning topics that re-
cenllu hare (xfil treated on in Ihia journal, ilany
.•ufA contributions monthly are tcelcome.
Keepisi! Sweet Potatoes. Our southern
methods are somewhat different than those given
in your columns. The following: plan is prac-
tised here where cheapness is a leading consider-
ation. Harvest Potatoes as soon as possible after
the first frost has blackened the leaves, and by
all means before the next rain. Make a bed about
eight inches thick of dry Corn stalks on the south
side of a building or windbreak of some kind,
and on high ground, so that water will run off
and not rise into the heap. Now pile the Pota-
toes in a conical heap on the bed. being careful
not to bruise tnem. and pick out all badly bruised
and broken ones. Place Corn stalks lengthwise
around the heap to the depth of about five or six
inches, the butts resting on the bed, and the tops
coming together at the apex of the heap. The
size of the heap may vary, but generally should
be four or five feet high. If there are many
Potatoes, a series of heaps, or one long wedge-
shaped heap may be made. Coverall finally with
soil to a depth of about six inches on the south
side, on the north side ten inches or more would
perhaps be better. Leave a small space at apex
of heap uncovered by soil, but well protected by
the stalks. Cover the heaps with a cheap shed
to keep oft rain. It is better to have a number
of small heaps so that one can be used without
disturbing the others. It is doubtful if the Sweet
Potatoes grown in the States north of Kentucky
ever reach a state of maturity that will admit of
their being kept so well as the southern-grown.
This is an inexpensive method, however, and it
would be well to try it and report results to this
paper. It is now too late, perhaps, to treat the
present crop, unless the Potatoes have been pre-
served in cellars or elsewhere, without exposure
to cold.- IT. B. i:tark. State College. Ky.
Lady Birds. A year or two ago on a warm
bright day late in autumn, myself and some
friends in strolling through a pleasant country
district of this State, came to a large Plane or
Cottonwood tree, the base of which from a little
distance appeared as if painted red. On exam-
ination we found the sunny side of the base and
the ground next to it covered with a thick layer
of the spotted lady bird, millions of them being
out sunning themselves. We might have scooped
them up by the quart. The thought struck me
to gather a lot and take them to the greenhouse
to give them shelter over winter, and have them
assist me in the warefare against the Potato bug
next season. But Mr. W. Sanders in his " Insects
Injurious to Fruits" has failed to instruct us
about the life habits of these useful little insects,
and so I did not know whether my interference
would be of help or detriment to the lady birds;
so fearing the latter I left them to their fate.
Would it not be well for our entomologists to
Impart more knowledge on the life habits of
useful insects, so we can find out in what way
we might be of help to them, protect and shelter
them?— JVcic Jergian.
SlTB-lBRIGATIOX FOB GARDENS. NO dOUbt
some ponds and streams carry weed seeds, and
when tapped for surface irrigation are apt to
seed the land with most undesirable and annoy-
ing crops. In such case the only thing to be
done is to irrigate by means of tile placed ten or
twelve inches or more below the surface. I fijid
this by far the most preferable method anyway,
and it meets Henry Rupky's objection in a per-
fect way. On my soil, which is very porous with
porous subsoil, the water sinks too fast to be
quickly distributed over the surface layer, and I
need great quantities of water in order to irrigate
every part of the surface and do thorough work.
In other words I have to deliver the water in a
rush, so to give some of it a chance to reach the
points furthest from the head before all of it
finds its way into the subsoil. This is one reason
why I prefer the full supply of river or pond to
the slow delivery of windmills. On the other
hand I find the temperature of pond and stream
water in summer much more cougenlal to plant
growth than that of deep wells, and otherwise
more suitable. But if well water has to be used,
I would construct an overground reser\ oir or a
pond above my field, pump this full and allow it
to get warm in the sun, then use it for sub-
irrigation in the way I now practice with my
natural pond supply.— .V/orri.s Mmirrey.
Construction of Gree.nhouse Wai-ls. Far
too little attention is generally paid to the con-
struction of greenhouse walls, and other walls
too, and also to the matter of excluding cold and
preserving heat in houses, stiibles, etc.. by a little
painstaking. My neighbors, for instance, con-
struct a vegetable forcing house. The sides, two
feet high, are put up of a single thickness of
boards, and so is the end facing the north with
REPAIRING HOT-BED SASH.
the door. It is true the sides are banked up with
soil, but a few inches next the glass are left bare,
and the cold has an excellent chance to work in
at this Line. How much warmer and more com-
fortable would it be inside, how much better
would the plants thrive, or how much less fuel
be needed, if the sides were constructed as sug-
gested by Mr. S. B. Green (see page 35, November
issue). Such a double wall would not require
much outlay for boards, and sawdust can usuall.v
be had tor little besides the hauling. Paper is
also quite cheap. People are too careless in such
matters. A little time spent in padding and
stopping up crevices, putting in lights where
broken, etc., will often save much coal or suffer-
ing.—C?iaric« Sterling, Camden, iV. J.
Effects of Arsenites. I have just read with
much interest the articles in the November num-
ber of Popular Gardening on the effects of
the arsenites, London purple and Paris green,
upon foliage. As I have conducted extensive
experiments for the express purpose of deter-
mining the comparative effects of these different
poisons, applied in different ways to the foliage
of various trees and plants, I can hardly help
adding a word. In Bulletin 2 of this station I
gave the results of a series of experiments that
proved most conclusively that white arsenic
should never be applied in solution to any foliage
for the destruction of leaf-feeding insects. I
have verified and reverifled those experiments,
and have always met with the same results.
Arsenic dissolved by boiling in water and then
apphed to tender foliage like Peach and Plum
has done quite serious injury, when as dilute as
one pound of the arsenic to 1.500 gallons of water.
I also found last year that the larvsp of Datana
ministra when fed day after day upon the leaves
of Apples that had been sprayed with dissolved
arsenic in the strength of one pound to 1200 gal-
lons of water, were not affected bj' the poison.
During the past two months I have made in the
neighborhood of 400 applications of London
purple, Paris green and white arsenic in strengths
varying from one pound of the poison to .W gallons
of water to one i>ound in 800 gallons. The foliage
used in the experiments has been of Apple, Pear,
Peach, Plum. Cherry, Alder, Elm, Locust, Bar-
berry, Raspberry, Poplar and Soft Maple. It is
my intention to conduct these experiments
farther before publishing the full results in the
station bulletins, but they have gone far enough
to show that London purple is far the most
injurious of any of these arsenites when freshly
mixed and applied in cold water to foliage. This
destroyed nearly one-halt of the foliage of Apple
trees when applied once in the proportion of one
pound to 160 gallons of water, and on Plum
foliage it did even worse than this. Until farther
experimentation proves me to be wrong. I shall
never recommend London purple in preference
to Paris green for the destruction of insects,
provided the liquid is in a condition to be con-
stantly stirred while being applied. In my
exi>eriments Paris green hasbeen next to London
purple in amount of injury, and much to my
surpri.se, pure white arsenic freshly mixed (not
dissolved) and applied has been least injurious.
Upwards of twenty applications of this poison in
the proportion of one poimd to bO gallons of
water, have been made to the foliage of various
trees, including Peach and Plum, without in any
case doing more than very slight harm, as shown
in two or three weeks' time. White arsenic is
very cheap when purchased in quantity, but it is
objectionable on account of its being diiBcult to
mix, and when mixed it .settles rapidly, and it is
more dangerous to have about the house, as it is
more liable to be taken for flour, soda or other
articles used In cooking.— C. P. OUlette, litwa Ex-
periment Station.
Zanzibar Badsam. I read with much pleasure
and can heartily endorse the remarks in Novem-
ber issue regarding the Imijatiens Sultani. A
plant purchased last fall was never without
bloom. All winter it delighted the family with
its wealth of blossoms, and in the spring was
planted under a Grape vine in the garden. Con-
trary to all expectation, the tops ha^^ng been
taken off for cuttings, it spread out, increased
rapidly in size, and soon was one of the bright
spots in the garden with its hundredsof blossoms.
E\'eryone seeing it wanted cuttings, and no diffi-
culty was found in rooting them in water or sand.
The original plant was killed by the frost, as it
was altogether too large to be taken up for the
house, but its cuttings are in blossom on the
shelves, together with cuttings of Browallia;
the two flowers contrasting well together, and
the same height. Flowering plants make a win-
dow look bright and cheerful, and my experience
is that the Sultani, BrowalUa and Sweet Alyssum
are much more satisfactory, require less care,
and under every condition give a greater wealth
of bloom than Geraniums, Fuchsias, Helio-
tropes or any other window plant. The Sultani is
the best of the Impatlens, the Lucy and Hawkeri
not being so free bloomers. I have never raised
any of them from seed, but suppose this could
be easily done.— Ja;?. H. Bancroft, Mass.
Remedy for Rabbits. A much better preven-
tion against the depredations of rabbits than the
" grease and blood " recommended in Novemtier
i.ssue, is a wash of one pound of copperas dissolved
and mixed with a bucket of whitewash, and
applied, well thinned with water, with a white-
wash brush. This same wash will also keep out
the Apple borer if applied in May, and it does
not damage the trees. Further it is a partial
protection against mice, while the '^ blood and
grease " attracts them. This is a very valuable
wash, and I have used it for five years on thou-
sands of trees,young and old .—Be ;v.Bwc?c77ian, /(Is.
Bleaching Ev.iporated Fruits. In reply to
a recent communication in your columns I will
tell why I do not consider bleaching evaporated
fruits injurious. Sulphurous acid is not readUy
oxidized in the presence of air and moisture, as
there claimed; it requires the addition of nitric
acid fumes to produce sulphuric acid in any con-
siderable quantity, the reaction being chemically
represented thus, 3 S. O 2 plus N. O .5 = 3 S. O 3
plus N. O 2. The whole matter was carefully
investigated and reported upon by Samuel A.
Lattimore, Ph. D., in the sixth annual report of
the State Board of Health of New York State,
submitted March 19, 18.S6. Referring to sulphur-
ous acid he says: "In no case has the writer
found any trace of this acid in evaporated Apples
or other fruit." He also failed in everj' instance
to find traces of free sulphuric acid. Further:
" Should it appear that the quantity of sulphates
found in sulphured Apples always exceeds the
normal quantity, the excess would very reasona-
bly be credited to the treatment. The compara-
ative analysis of the samples of the same fruit,
part of which had been treated with sulphur and
part not, showed no wider difference than may
be fairly referred as permissible error of experi-
ment. The largest quantities found were so
tririal that the writer cannot entertain the
opinion that it excedes the quantity of sulphuric
acid normally belonging to that particular
sample." Then after considering the question
whether the juice of the Apple acts upon the
zinc of the fruit trays to form a poisonous salt,
he says: "In conclusion it appears plain that
there can exist no well f on nded cause of appre-
hension as to any dangerous contamination of
evaporated Apples or other fruit from either of
those two sources." Hence I trust no one will
be frightened away from the use of evaporated
Apples by your correspondent's alarm.— i^erf W.
Caril, Tompkins Co., N.Y.
54
POPULAR GARDENING.
December,
Review of Grape Crop in 1 889.
E. r. POWELL, ONEIDA CO., N. T.
This has been every way a phenomenal
year. We are beset by surprises on all hands.
I was picking ripe Niagaras the l'2th of .Sep-
tember. The Hayes was well ripened soon
after the first, and Diamond in good pick-
ing on the tenth.
The amount of mildew and rot were also
phenomenal. The conditions for the devel-
opment of vegetable fungus were never bet-
ter. Currant bushes and most of the thorns
have stood absolutely defoliated since July.
It was necessary to hurry the picking of the
Currants owing to their dropping with the
foliage. Many trees loosened their leaves in
August, and others early in September.
Rose bushes have been a pitiful sight all
through the summer.
I have never had black rot on my vines
before, except on one sort, the Massasoit,
but this year the rot has swept through
Gaertners, Niagaras, and even Worden.
Grein's Hybrids have both rotted and mil-
dewed, and Roger's Hybrids have either
wholly faUed to set or have rotted. The
special peculiarity of the season, however,
has been a great failure of most sorts to fer-
tilize while in blossom. Whole trellises of
Herbert, Worden, Martha, Rogers' 30,
Duchess, Empire State, etc., are without a
pound of Grapes. Where there should be
two tons there may be two hundred pounds.
More damaging has been the mildew on
young vines planted last fall. These start-
ed well, but Gan-tner and Roger's Hybrids
generally shrivelled, andmany of them died.
Of vines that have resisted this phenomenal
year I make the following list : Diamond is
absolutely sound on old vines, nearly so on
small ones. Niagara has done well. Pock-
lington all right. Hayes all right. Wood-
rufi all right. Delaware fairly well. Aug-
ust Giant fine. Poughkeepsie essentially
identical in constitution with Delaware.
Vergennes fairly well. Diana very well.
Martha very well. Worden all right. Con-
cord all right. Brighton fine. Duchess in
good order. Lindley as well off as any of
Roger's. Jessica nearly leafless. Golden
Gem fine. This refers to mildew on foliage.
Those that have kept their fruit in perfect
order, free of both mildew and rot, are Dia-
mond, Hayes, Golden Gem, August Giant,
Concord mostly, Martha the same; Diana
very nearly right; Jefferson all right ; Brigh-
ton and Iowa all right; Woodruff aU right,
and Delaware in good order. The worst to
mildew were Grein's No. 7 and Gaertner;
and the worst to rot, Niagara, Grein's No. 7,
a part of my Wordens and Jessica.
So many failed to fertilize that it is impos-
sible to draw a full comparison. But this is
clear that among sixty varieties those that
have mastered all difficulties, are Hayes,
Diamond. Woodrull, Augu.st Giant, with
Delaware, Poughkeepsie, Vergennes, Golden
Gem, Concord and Amber next.
My notes on quality are, of course, imper-
fect. I, however, place Hayes twenty-five
per cent, higher than before. It is most de-
licious, so much better than it was last year
when I first ripened it, that I hardly recog-
nize it as the same Grape. It is a golden
white, good sized bunch, very fairly prolific
and growth good. Diamond comes on a few
days later than I expected, is a delicious
Grape, large noble berry, full fine bunch and
sufficiently prolific. Its growth and foliage
are beautiful. Woodruff is a late grape, not
in any sense early as reported to be, a solid
fine bunch, prolific, and a reasonably decent
quality. August Giant is after Hayes and
Diamond, but is rather an early Grape; very
prolific, a good bunch, and quality really
satisfactory. It grows and outgrows every-
thing else. Foliage rich, Grapes good, and
a splendid thing to take care of itself. Ver-
gennes I set down farther on the scale, ui>
lacking quality. There is no season for
growing Poughkeepsie Red. Empire .State
I want no more of. Worden is still our best
black early Grape, and Herbert the best late.
Duchess holds its own. Ulster I think rather
better of. Niagara has rotted badly, but it
fertilized well, and is this year trying to be
an early Grape. Jessica is still in all ways
the same contemptible fraud made up of
seeds and water. Golden Gem is a fine little
Grape of good spicy flavor liked by children.
Grein's Grapes are all lacking in sweetness.
Brighton is superb, as usual, and the best
late red, as Gewrtner is best early. Lady
gives such wretched crops; it is worthless,
but in quality never surpassed. Martha, to
be a fine Grape, needs a sunny spot and
sharp thinning.
Lady was first to ripen, August 30th, Ear-
ly Victor and Moore's Early were colored
soon after, but not sweet and good before
September .5th. Worden was offering ripe
bunches September first; so also Brighton,
but both of these Grapes begin to ripen early
and do not finish till late; are in good eating
for sLx weeks or more.
Hayes was fully ripe September 1st to
.5th, and a glorious golden color when it
hung in the sun. Ulster began to ripen un-
usually early September 5th, and Duchess
not yet ripe September 15th. So there is no
calculation to be made this year, for Duchess
should be ahead of Ulster.
Lindley on buildings was ripe September
5th, on trellises, not quite ripe September
15th. Vergennes may be set down for Sep-
tember 12th. It is not a good Grape. Mar-
tha, where crop is thin, is ripe generally two
weeks ahead of a full crop. This Grape is
allowed to overbear and has lost its reputa-
tion for quality, which may be very good.
The secret of early ripening is a sunny ex-
posure, well-trimmed vines, not much sum-
mer pruning, a thinned crop, and well-
drained soil. The failure to fertilize this
year is a fault of all fruits. A very warm
April, followed by cold weather all through
the blooming period, killed the helpful in-
sects, and checked all vegetable activity.
Quack Grass and How to Destroy it.
WM. H. RAND, MIDDLESEX CO., MASS.
The proprietorship of a garden, all my
own, given me by my good father, to encour-
age my natural love of plant-life, is among
my earliest recollections. With a set of
dwarf garden tools I put the weeds to flight
in short order, but I found a grass that
wouldn't kill. Whether dug up, cut off, or
covered, it rose Phoeni.x-like to fresh life.
My father told me that my troublesome ten-
ant was Quack Grass. Now my crude idea
of the word " Quack " was a person who as-
sumed to be a doctor, and wasn't. This plant
looked like Grass, and most decidedly was
Grass every day in the week.
Triticum repens, the Quack, Couch, Witch,
and De^^^s Grass of various sections, is one
of the worst weeds that Eastern farmers
have to contend with wherever it has gained
a foothold in tilled land. Ordinary cultiva-
tion tends to increase, rather than weaken
its growth, and it not only draws largely on
the supply of plant food in the soil, but con-
sumes the needed moisture to such an ex-
tent as to cause a practical failure of crops
in a dry season. The theory that no plant
can sustain life, if persistently cut off, and
not allowed to make any considerable leaf
growth, may be true enough, but in practice
this idea cannot be carried out with this
weed, as any hoed crop reaches a stage in its
growth where further cultivation is diffi-
cult, If not Impossible, and then the Quack,
as it is commonly called in this locality, will
make up for lost time.
We leased a field on a neighboring place
for a term of years, which, at plowing time,
we discovered to be a solid Quack Grass sod.
We determined to make the best of it and
put four horses on a heavy Oliver plow, with
the hope of tiirning under the mass of roots
deeply enough to smoother them. The first
crop was nearly a failure, as the Grass roots
were so tough in many places that it was
impossible to keep the cultivator teeth in
the ground. In the fall we plowed again to
about the same depth, bringing the old roots
to the surface bright and fresh. A severe
winter followed without much snow, with
warm sunny days and sharp frosty nights in
March. Now the field was given a thorough
harrowing with a spring-tooth harrow,
which, of course, dragged the roots on top
and together. This and a second plowing
effectually conquered the weed. The third
season I do not believe a dozen live roots
could have been found on the field. I be-
lieve this is the only successful method of
killing Quack Grass. Summer following
might answer as well, but would involve
loss of the land for one season's cropping.
There are hundreds of small gardens
where this weed is a pertiferous nuisance,
but if the ground is dug deeply in the fall,
and the roots carefully pulled out and dug
from around bushes and shrubbery, and
straggling plants hunted up the ensuing
season, it may be eradicated. The free use
of salt would also accomplish the purpose,
but prevent plant growth of any kind for a
year or two, at least.
How to IVIanage the Apple IVIaggot.
The larva of an insignificant looking fly
(TrypeUi pornonclla) causes much trouble
to eastern Apple growers. It is a footless
maggot tapering to a point in front, and cut
squarely off liehind, of greenish white color,
about one-fifth of an inch long, measuring,
with wings expanded, nearly one-half inch
across; head and legs rust red; thorax shin-
ing black, more or less marked with grayish
white; wings whitish glassy with dusky
bands. This single, brooded insect appears
in July, and by means of a sharp ovipositor
inserts its eggs into the substance of the
Apple. The maggot soon hatches, and be-
gins its work of destruction by tunnelling
the pulp of the fruit with winding channels.
For the past two years the Apple maggot
and its ravages have been the subject of
thorough investigation by Prof. F. L. Har-
vey, of the Maine Agricultural Experiment
Station, and the results are published in a
recent bulletin. As preventive measures the
following are named:
1. Keep the orchards in grass, and in the
fall or spring burn under the trees to destroy
the pupa^ that are about the gniss roots.
2. If the orchard is in cultivation, the con-
ditions are favorable for the maggots to
go into the ground, but they nevergo deeper
than an inch, and deep spading or plowing
in the spring would destroy them.
3. Orchards on sandy soil and in sheltered
places with a southern exposure are worse
affected. In planting orchards such condi-
tions might be avoided.
4. Prevent by legal enactment the impor-
tation of fruit from localities known to be
infested.
Eemedies. The direct methods of subduing
the Apple maggot are as follows:
1. The flies are very stupid, although
they appear otherwise. When resting on
the leaves of Apples they can readily be
taken with a small insect tube or bottle. By
placing the mouth cautiously over them,
they are not disturbed and soon crawl inside.
The killing of even a few flies would mater-
ially lessen the number and check the pest.
2. The fact that tlie larva' do not leave
the fruit before it is ripe, and are still found
in abundance in the windfalls, would indi-
cate the most vulnerable points in the life
history of the insect, and suggest two
methods of checking the pest, viz. : Taking
1889.
POPULAR GARDENING.
55
care ttiat the larvu' in tlie satheriMl fiuit be
not allowed to transform and destioj' the
windfalls.
Infested Apples in market places are a
fruitful .source of the pest, and fruit dealers
should be required to burn or bui'y all Apple
refuse, and not throw it on the ground.
The niagiiots in stored Apples soon leave
them and go into the pui):r state in the bar-
rels or bins. If marketed the pupa' go with
the fruit in the barrel and may spread the
pest. In bins and barrels in the cellar the
pupa> no doubt retain their vitality, and tlie
dies emerge iu the spring. As a precaution
the bins should be carefully swept, and the
barrels shaken into a tight vessel and the
refuse buried or burned.
The maggots are not able to crawl out of
a bo.x, and the refuse from market places,
etc., could be thrown into a tight bo.\ or bar-
rel, and the maggots prevented from going
into the ground. The refuse could occasion-
ally be buried a foot or so deep.
3. Thorough and universal destruction
of the windfalls is the most hopeful means
of checking the pest. To carefully gather
the fallen fruit every day from the early and
late varieties, from Aug. 1 until Nov. 1, and
biu-n or feed it, would destroy many of the
maggots. Sheep or hogs might be allowed
the range of the orchard to eat the windfalls.
The importance of rigidly adhering to this
method for at least two years cannot be too
strongly urged upon fruit growers whose
orchards are infested.
4. If the above methods do not succeed,
there is a radical one that cannot fail. The
destruction of the entire Apple crop for one
season in the infested districts of the State
by giving the flies no place to rear their
maggots, would about destroy the pest. We
do not think this will be necessary if the
careful destruction of windfalls and infested
fruit is practised. Should such a radical
means be necessary, the flies could be al-
lowed to deposit their eggs, and the fruit
approach maturity, when it could be gath-
ered and fed and not prove a serious loss.
Preserving Potatoes for Seed.
Among all the problems which confront
the Potato grower, none we believe is more
serious or of greater practical Importance
than how to preserve tubers in best possible
condition for seed. Tests made by us a few
years ago seemed to indicate a loss of fully
one-third of the crop in consequence of the
use of tubers that had been allowed to spend
some of their energies in the emission of
long sprouts before planting. These tests
justified the conclusion that a maximum
yield can only be obtained from seed that is
entirely dormant.
Not one out of fifty growers has yet be-
come aware of the full importance of this
matter. Most of them store theirseed tubers
In a cellar much too warm (especially towards
spring) for the good of the seed, and conse-
quently of the crop obtained from it. Exper-
iments with a view to discover the best
methods of preserving tubers in best possible
condition for seed are now in order. Mr. T.
B. Terry, the Ohio Potato expert, describes
in Ohio Farmer how he managed to keep
his seed Potatoes in good shape last year,
and it may yet be time for many of our
readers to try it in the same way.
Last fall, says Mr. Terry, our seed Pota-
toes were dug early in September and stored
in the basement of the barn, where it was
cool and dry. All light was shut out. .Just
before freezing weather, after the ground
became cool, we moved them out doors to
their winter quarters. In fact, the morning
we did this there was a crust of frost on the
surface of the soil. 100 bushels were put in
a pile, on the surface of the ground, about
■30 feet long and three feet wide at the bot-
tom, and piled up as high as possible on this
base. A load of straw was then brought
from the barn and p>it over the Potatoes.
A course was laid around the outside first,
then another above and lapping over the
first one, and so cm until tlie top was reached.
The object of this care was to have the straw
so it would shed water aud save the trouble
of putting a board roof over the pile after it
was done. About four inches of soil were
put on the straw at this time. Five 2-foot
pieces of sewer pipe, three or four inches in
diameter, were placed on top of the pile, as
chimneys or ventilators. When the four
inch layer of soil on the pile was frozen
solidly, we drew out another load of straw
and covered the pile again in the same man-
ner as at the first. Then we covered this
straw with about eight inches of soil, top-
ping it out nicely.
Our pile was made on sod ground, and a
little chaff had been spread around the base
of the pile to prevent the soil from freezing.
It was a pretty cold day when we did this
last coveriug, but iu this way we had no
trouble in getting the earth. On stubble
ground, uncovered, we should have been
stuck. No more work was done on the pile,
except to stuff some straw into the tile
chimneys, when very cold weather came,
until the latter part of February. We chose
a day then, when the earth on the pile was
frozen solidly, but there was a prospect that
the sun would soon begin to draw out the
frost. On this day we drew out plenty of
straw to cover the pile and all around It a
foot deep or more. The earth on the pile
and around it was then frozen solidly. The
intention was to keep it so by this mulch of
straw just as long as possible. Of course,
the sun shining on the pile in March would
soon draw all the frost out, and the pile
would warm up gradually with the earth,
although not quite as fast, owing to the
layers of straw beneath.
About the first of April, I dug into the pile
to see how the things were. There was no
frost in the fields at that time. I found the
earth under the straw frozen so solidly that
it was quite a job with a pick to get a hole
through it. The Potatoes were in good con-
dition, except that a single eye on the seed
end of some of them had .sent out a sprout
in some cases an inch or two long. This, I
think, was done in the early winter, which
you will remember was quite warm, and be-
fore the pile got cold clear through. You
will now see that the object of making such
a long slim pile was that they would cool
through quicker. We closed up the pile
again, until planting time, about the first of
May. Then we opened it, drew the Potatoes
in and spread them on the barn floor, three
or four inches deep. They had changed
little since the first of April, and on the
whole were in excellent condition for early
Potatoes at that late date. At that time the
frost had just gone out of the pile. The
Potatoes were entirely dry.
After the pile was opened we drew the
straw back into the barn and used for bed-
ding. All this was quite a little work ; but
when you come to divide it up was not prob-
ably more than six or seven cents a bushel
on the seed kept. I consider it worth many
times that to me; Potatoes usually do so
much better when the first sprout grows.
Wherever the ground freezes solidly in
mid-winter I do not see why this plan can-
not be used to advantage. One might even
go to the trouble of covering with straw
during warm spells in winter, and throwing
the straw off when a cold snap comes, in
more southern latitudes than ours. If you
understand the principle involved you can
hardly make a mistake. In brief, keep Po-
tatoes in the cellar until the earth is cooler
than the cellar ; than use every precaution
to get them cooled through in the pile as
soon as possible, and then to keep them so
as late as po.ssible in the spring, by mulch-
ing on cold earth. It would be best if one
could select a place for his pile just north of
buildings, trees or hedges. Land in such a
situation is slower to thaw when a warm
spell comes. Kept in this way ray early
seed Potatoes cost me less than iWO. Last
year I had them rushed through from north-
ern Maine at a cost of $li;0. It pays largely
to change seed occasionally, but I now do it
in the fall, at far less cost, and winter them
myself. Then I know that I have them. .
The White Pine Weevil.
This insect causes considerable damage
in gardens and on grounds where Ever-
greens are grown for ornamental purposes;
not only White Pines are attacked, but
other species of Pine and Spruce suffer
equally. A letter recently received from
Warren County, New Jersey, describes the
injury so well that I reproduce parts of it.
"Many of my Evergreens— Spruces especi-
ally—are much infested by a borer which
seems to deposit eggs at the base of the new
shoots and leaders, and spreads downward,
killing all of the tree that is above it
In this section every White Pine has lost its
leader. I do not think I have seen a single
exception. Is this done by some insect that
attacks the Spruces, or is it a different one y
It is most provoking to see one's best and
most promising trees cut down in this way."
The letter was accompanied by specimens
of infested Spruce twigs, which showed the
characteristic work of the White Pine wee-
vil (Pissodes Strobi). The insect is a well-
known one, and its history was first made
out many years ago by Dr. Harris, who
thought it required more than a year to
come to maturity. Dr. Fitch afterwards
gave a very full account of the species, giv-
ing it a period of one year to undergo its
transformations. Other writers have men-
tioned the insect at intervals, until most
recently Dr. Packard has written on the sub-
ject and has recorded the species from April
to September, his dates leaving little mar-
gin for intervals. Dr. Packard gives one
brood for the species, the generalised ac-
count being that the imago appears in spring
or early summer and oviposits soon after.
From my collecting and observations, I be-
lieve there are in the latitude of New York
two broods annually. The first of these
issues as imago early in spring, say the
latter part of April or early in May, ovipos-
iting in May, the larva; of the second brood
coming to maturity the latter part of July,
imago issuing during earlyAugust, and ovi-
positing during that month.
The larva is a white grub, about one-third
of an inch long, with a horny yellow head,
slightly curled as it lies In its cell. When
full-grown it forms an oval cell either just
under the bark or the pith, and changes to
a white pupa, and very soon after to an
imago. The imago is an oblong-oval and
rather narrow weevil, about a quarter of an
inch long, of a dull, dark chestnut color,
with two dots on the thorax, the scutel and
a short irregular band back of the middle
of the wing covers white, the wing covers
also variegated with a few patches of tawny
yellow. The eggs have not as yet been de-
scribed. They are deposited on the leaders
and other small twigs and branches— some-
times also on the trunks of old trees — at
very .short intervals. The larvae eat very
little more than twice their own length into
the wood or under the bark, and a single
comparatively small shoot will harbor thirty
to forty of them. Of course the smaller
twigs thus interrupted in growth are
damaged, die, and the shape of the young
trees is spoiled, unless the owner believes —
as some do — in small, bushy trees, in which
case they are no serious drawback, since
they never seem to kill larger branches.
56
POPULAR GARDENING.
December,
No satisfactory remedies for borers have
yet been discovered. Their mode of life is
such that they are at no time in position to
be attacked by insecticides. This weevil
has its parasites that keep it in check some-
what, and some of our smaller birds seek
out the larvie and pupte under the bark and
feed upon them. The only way of checking
their ravages when they appear in parks is
to trim out and burn all infested branches
and twigs very early in spring, and again
about the middle of July. In this way the
larvfe will be prevented from coming to ma-
turity, and there will be no imagos. So long
as there are other unpruned trees about,
this remedy is palliative merely; but still so
many will be destroyed that a much larger
proportion of leaders will escape, and the
injury will be considerably reduced. — Oar-
den and Forest.
A Universal Tree Scraper.
Whether the removal of much of the dead
bark on orchard trees, etc., or in other
words the scraping of the
bodies of such trees by
forceful means, is a com-
mendable practice or not,
is yet a matter of dispute.
We do not think we would
go about it in a very
rough fashion. It is
thought that the dead
scales, Mosses, which cov-
er older trees, etc., often
serve a very good pur-
pose in giving shade and
protection. However this
may be, we know that
these scales also afford
hiding places for injur-
ious insects, for their eggs
and pupse. For this rea-
son we do not object
to a moderate combing or
scraping of the trees, and
the universal " tree scra-
per," picture of which we
here present, appears to
us like a very good and desirable tool for
the purpose. Its action is not excessively
harsh or rough, and while it will be effect-
ive in removing the dead scales, and with
them insect enemies, we do not think that
it can do harm to the live bark underneath.
TREE SCRAPER.
CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
SIXTH PAPER.
Ghape Rot, Its Prevention and Cure.
DB. J. STATMAN, LEAVENWORTH CO., KANSAS,
In 1878 I wrote to Hon. LaDuc, Com-
missioner of Agriculture, in answer to
questions concerning Grape Kot: " There
must be some other theory than of a fungus
growth to reconcile it with our observations.
We have a vineyard of four acres planted
in '67 and 'H8 which produced well until '73,
and then commenced to rot and has become
worse each year since, so that we consider
it worthless. A portion of this vineyard
was grafted with other varieties, but it was
the year of the grasshoppers (1875) so but
few lived. The shoots or suckers came up
from the roots and lay on the ground in the
weeds without any cultivation ever since,
and produced Grapes which did not rot
under the same conditions that the others
rotted, save they were never cut off and did
not lay in the grass. Here we have the same
moisture and temperature without fungus
or Grape rot.
Here we have a fact that occurred thirteen
years ago, on a scale sufficiently large to
demonstrate, that it was cutting off the
vines that produced the result. The same
result has followed here and elsewhere,
whenever \'ines were cut back to the ground.
At our home place, 200 feet below the above
mentioned vineyard and two miles away,
we had a vineyard set in 1862, which had
also become so worthless by rot that we
had all the vines cut off in the ground for
the purpose of destroying them, but they
threw up such strong good suckers that we
let them and see what they would do. The
result was, the next year and for several
years after, they produced good crops lying
on the ground without rotting. We then
pruned and put them on a trellis, where
they bore for a number of years without
rotting. We had two other rows adjoining
that were cut off in like manner at the same
time, one row was pruned and trained on a
trellis and cultivated some; the other row
was not pruned or cultivated, but lay on the
ground. Both of these rows produced
Grapes that did not rot. The one trained
up, however, produced the largest and finest
fruit. Both rows were about ruined by rot
before they were cut off. All the vines
spoken of were set out by the common plan
of digging holes about twelve inches deep
and setting the vines in them.
We have another row of about 40 vines that
were set out in 1860, and were used for prop-
agation by layering, some years we would
layer so much that there would be no wood
left to layer the next year. We then would
let them grow and make wood for the next
year, and then layer them again. This sys-
tem has been kept up from year to year
except some few canes were left to bear
fruit. In no instance has this row shown
any rot. These vines, however, were set in
a trench dug two and a-half feet deep and
rich soil and material put in bottom for the
foot roots to grow in, which may account
for the freedom of rot.
Our experience of at least sixteen years
tells us that cutting vines back to th e ground
will prevent Grape rot. To more fully con-
firm the fact stated we will refer to an essay
by Prof. Hawn of this place read in 1888
before the Leavenworth County Horticul-
tural Society. He said; "After abandoning
the old lines of research for the cause of
Grape rot, and entering on the new, I found
a single vine of Concord in my vineyard
entirely free from rot, while my other vines
and those of my neighbors were badly
affected, and from reports to your society a
general disastrous rot prevailed. This soli-
tary vine stood near a pond of water, rarely
dry for days in succession, and so rainy was
the season that the furrows of my vineyard
were rarely dry during crises of the rot.
So active was parasitic growth in this
humid atmosphere, that mildew attacked
and destroyed the leaves of this solitary
vine before the fruit arrived at perfect
maturity, an incident that had never oc-
curred before on the Concord leaf, yet not a
rotten Grape was found on any of the clus-
ters, some of which might have weighed a
pound. In examening into the cause of this
exemption I found that in pruning .the
previous year I had cut the vine down to
the ground to bring it into a better shape,
and the new canes of the subsequent
growth produced the exceptional fruit. This
led to fiu'ther experiments on this line
which finally terminated in reducing the
whole vineyard to this sytem.
During this transition, wherever a vine
was subjected to this treatment during the
nine years through which the experiments
were conducted, the loss from rot did not
amount to two per cent in any one year,
though losses outside of this mode were
never less than 30 per cent and in one or
two years nearly total."
Here we have the experience of Prof.
Hawn continuetl through nine years with
the same result as our own proving beyond
a doubt that cutting the vines at or into the
ground is a remedy for Grape rot. The only
difference in the Prof, experiments and our
own is that he cut to the ground while we
cut off several inches below the surface.
Which of these methods are the best, time
and experience will decide.
Pruning Crape Vines Under Glass.
SUBSCKIBER.
The two principal modes of pruning the
vines are the long arm and the spur system;
the latter amongst practical gardeners is
generally preferred where an even crop
throughout the house is desired, but if on
the other hand large bunches are required,
the long arm system should be adopted.
In pruning vines on the spur system, be
particular to alternate the spurs as nearly
as possible, to allow more space for the de-
velopment of the foliage. This is of more
importance than is generally supposed, both
in assisting the coloring of the fruit and also
to encourage more root action. Allow a
space of about eight inches between the
spurs on either side of the vine, cut back the
shoot to within two eyes of the cane.
To grow Grapes on the long arm system,
allow the first season's growth to run the
length of the rafter, stopping all lateral
growth at the first or second joints to con-
centrate the sap in the main shoot. In win-
ter pruning cut the cane back to the bottom
of the rafter; in the following season train
up two of the strongest shoots to the top of
the house, stopping all lateral growth as
above, and when they have completed that
season's growth, cutoneof them back to two
eyes at the base. The shoot left will produce
fruit the following year. It is advisable to
cut back this shoot according to its strength.
The shoot that is cut back to two eyes will
furnish arms, one to take the place of the
rod bearing fruit this j-ear, the other to be
cut back to two eyes as before directed.
Cleaning the vines must be done after
winter pruning; take down the cane from
the trellis and scrape thoroughly with a dull
knife, be careful not to injure the fruit buds
or penetrate the inner bark, then wash the
vines with Tobacco water, afterwards paint
with a mixture of Tobacco, soap, clay and
water. After the canes are dry, tie in a hor-
izontal position along the front of the house
to encourage an equal flow of sap through,
out the vine, allowing them to remain in
this position until they start into growth;
then tie them to the trellis.
Forceps for Numbering Labels.
The little device for numbering zinc or
lead labels is sent out by a German firm as
the best and simplest of its kind, and cost-
ing only about ■*2.50. It is small enough to
be carried in one's pocket, and has siifficient
purchase to be easily worked. Any number
from 0 to 9999 can be pressed into a label
with a single impression. The number ready
for impression is also indicated by same
number appearing on top between two of
the dies, and the operator is thus enabled to
avoid all mistakes. To avoid the necessity
of setting the whole machinery for single
FORCEPS FOR PRINTING METAL LABELS.
figures (from 0 to 9), these' figures appear a
second time, and independently, on the
handles, as appearing in illustration, and
impressions of them than be taken rapidly
without changing the wheel.
1889.
POPULAR GARDENING.
57
Influence of Transplanting.
Transplanting, in some cases reiieatedly,
is practiced by gardeners quite generally
with Tomato, Pepper, Cabbage, Celery, and
other vegetable plants for the purpose of
securing stockiness, and a better develop-
ment of root, and of thus promoting earli-
ness. To what extent this object is accom-
plished by transplanting above what it
would be by merely giving each plant plenty
of room from the beginning, we are not yet
prepared to say; but it is pretty much gen-
erally conceded that transplanting also
serves to dwarf plants thus manipulated.
If it makes Cabbages and Tomatoes earlier,
for instance, it also makes the heads smaller,
and also decreases the yield of Tomatoes.
It would be of interest, and perhaps of
practical value to flower lovers, to discover
in how far the bloom of plants, especially
of annuals grown from seed, is influenced
by transplanting. Phoebe tells the follow-
ing instances in a communication to the
American Cultivator. Two years ago I
bought Henderson's imported Balsams in
twelve colors. AVe mixed the seed, sowed
half of it in the bed, pricked out at two
leaves, changed into boxes at two-inch size,
and later transplanted into the open garden.
The soil in the boxes was a mass of roots.
We picked off the suckers, training the
plants as single stalks, and the flowers were
so large they actually crowded each other
off the stem. You never saw the like, per-
fect double Camellias of exquisite shades;
but not a seed. The other half of the seed
was sown in the garden. Xot one-quarter
of the flowers were double, but there was
seed enough for an acre.
Last spring I sowed some expensive Aster
seed in a long row, thinking it would be
nice to have plenty of flowers to give away.
"When the plants were about three inches
high, my neighbor came over and asked for
some of my Asters. I did not really like to,
but gave her about fifty, and, do you know,
her flowers were larger than mine, and
much more perfect. I was vexed about it.
John says that transplanting Potatoes
decreases the yield, and he thinks the same
is true of Tomatoes; he knows it is so with
Sweet Com, from numerous trials to grow
it early.
So we have come to the conclusion that
transplanting under good conditions favors
the perfection of some flowers, but reduces
the yield of seed and fruit.
Save the Old Fertilizer Bags.
The usefulness of the light one-bushel
boxes or crates as now in use by many
progressive farmers in harvesting Potatoes,
root crops, etc., can not be questioned. We
also always find good use for our old ferti-
lizer sacks, not only in the field, for harvest-
ing crops, and in covering up plants, roots
or fruit exposed to danger from frost, but
also for various purposes in the house. So
we never fail forgather these bags up care-
fully as soon as emptied, and have them
soaked out and washed clean.
Mr. J. J. H. Gregory even places the bags
above boxes for the purposes named. I use
fertilizer bags for gathering Onions,Potatoes
Beets and Com, so he writes to the Ameri-
can Cultivator. My team takes some hun-
dreds aboard, and the man scatters them at
convenient distances as he drives along.
Bags that have been used for nitrate of
soda, sulphate of ammonia and potash in
any form are either too damp or too rotten
to be of value. These are either soaked in
barrels or spread on the grass until free
from the fertilizer, when they are used to
protect vegetable heaps from sun or frost.
I find bags more economical and more
handy than bushel boxes, which, though
strengthened with iron bands, are very apt
to get broken by the usage they receive
from the average farm hand. Again boxes
are heavier to handle, occupy more room,
and are more liable to jam the vegetables,
when piled about each other. With bags I
can take a much larger load than with
boxes. Yesterday my 8000-pound horse
team took 12.5 bushels at a load.
Men handling vegetables loaded in bags
need to be occasionally cautioned not to
tread on the load. In gathering seed Cora
my men used bags in preference to baskets,
grasping and carrying along the bag with
one hand while they fill them with the other.
They find that this makes more expeditious
work than filling baskets and pouring into
the bags. After the bags are filled they can
be carried to the team by throwing one over
each shoulder, where, were baskets or
boxes used, but one could be handled at a
time. When husking Corn that is to be
poured into bags I lay the ears in the bas-
kets, all one way. Placed thus they pour
out much more readily. These are but little
economies, but practice of them helps make
•' both ends meet."
Peach and Plum Rot.
One after another the diseases which have
heretofore baffled the skill of the cultivator,
and often caused his pockets to be still
empty at the close of the fruit season, are
brought under control. The rot of Peaches,
and still more of Plums, has long been a
source of annoyance and loss to the grow-
ers, but if they will follow the suggestions
which Prof. Erwin F. Smith of the Myco-
logical Section of the Department of Agri-
culture offers as a result of his observations
in various Peach growiug sections of the
United States, concernmg Peach rot and
Peach blight, they may in a measure be able
to overcome this serious obstacle to success.
The disease, says Prof. Smith, is due to a
parasitic fungus which produces many
small ash-gray tufts on the discolored sur-
face of the rotting fruit. These tufts con-
sist principally of spore dust, which is
carried by animals, washed by rains, or
blown about, and causes the rot to develop
in sound Peaches whenever it falls upon
them under proper conditions. The most
favorable conditions for the germination of
the spores and the rapid spread of the rot
are hot and moist weather.
This fungus also causes a very character-
istic blight of twigs and branches. In rainy
seasons this is quite apt to occur, especially
if the rotting fruits are allowed to remain
upon the tree. The fungus lives over winter
in the decayed fruits, and in this way is re-
produced year after year. In the spring
these dry, wrinkled fruits, which have been
left upon the earth or still cling to the
branches, swell and soften under the in-
fluence of repeated rains, and produce a
new crop of spores exactly like those of the
previous season.
The practical importance of this discovery
is very great. Could the blighted twigs
and rotted fruits of one season be entirely
destroyed, the fungus would disappear and
the rot with it. The more nearly complete
this removal of infectious material can be
made, the safer will be the succeeding crop.
During the growing season the fungus pro-
duces innumerable spores and spreads its
infection very quickly. For this reason, all
rotting Peaches should be removed from
the trees and buried or burned, as soon as
discovered. This can be done during the
picking season without much additional ex-
pense; but it may frequently be necessary
to do it before the fruit is ripe, if the grower
would save any portion of it in a market-
able condition. Finally, not a single rotted
fruit should be allowed to winter over. All
must be destroyed.
If fruit growers would nnite and follow
this method systematically for a series of
years, the losses from Peach rot would be
reduced to inconsiderable proportions.
These remarks apply also to the rot of
Plums and Cherries which is caused by the
same fungus, known as MunUia fructifjcna.
Winter Protection for Strawberries.
L. J. FARMER, ORA.N'GE CO., N. J.
l^nlike some people we prefer to wait till
cold weather comes before covering our
Strawberries. Of course it is ea.sier to apply
during warm, sunshiny days, but unless
cold weather soon follows the covering will
rot the plants, and make them too tender to
endure the coldest weather later on. It
should be borne in mind that winter mulch
is not applied generally to keep plants from
freezing hard, but to protect them from
alternate freezing and thawing, which
causes the plants to heave out and die. Very
little damage is usually done in the late
autumn, and it is generally best to delay
covering Strawberries till December. The
most damage is done in early spring. Good
Maple-sugar weather is very destructive to
uncovered Strawberry plants. In the cold
nights the earth freezes and expands, raising
the plants. Next day the earth thaws and
settles around the plants, leaving the roots
exposed. This is continued several days till
the plants are all out, when the sun and
wind soon kill them. Now a good mulch
acts as a non-conductor of heat, and the soil
under it will remain frozen during day-time
till freezing nights have passed.
Mulching Materi.^l. We have tried
several kinds of material with different
restilts. Horse manure is generally full of
seeds from bedding used, and therefore
should be applied only to plants that are to
be plowed under after fruiting. I think it
gives better results when put on in the
spring than in the early winter. It stimu-
lates growth and makes them earlier. The
largest and finest Bid wells we ever grew
were spring mulched with horse manure.
For most of our plantation we use straw,
any kind we can get. To remove the weed
seeds, the straw is spread thinly in a vacant
lot and turned over several times, when the
seeds will rattle to the ground. Hens will
assist in this. The straw can afterwards be
stacked by the Strawberry bed or put in the
barn till wanted.
Appltixg Mulch. When the ground is
frozen hard enough to bear up the horses
and wagon, we can drive anywhere on the
patch, putting the material where needed.
A man stands on the load and shakes it unto
the rows, and others following place it
evenly all over the surface about two to
three inches deep, or so as to hide the leaves
and soil. We deem it important that the
whole surface be mulched , as any part freez-
ing and thawing will disturb the rest. We
shall experiment his season ^vith several
kinds of mulch, applied at different times
and at different depths, so as to give results
to others.
Fexces for Catching Snow. On exposed
hills Strawberries of the more tender varie-
ties are often killed by the cold driving
winds of mid-winter, even through a three-
inch mulch of straw. Indeed, the Crescent
and Burt are about all that are entirely
hardy with us so far. For this reason it is
best to select a location for growing Straw-
berries where the snow lays still. If this
cau't be had, fences of rails or boards at fre-
quent intervals will stop the snow and hold
it where wanted. A loose board fence will
catch more snow than a tight one, so nail
the boards several inches apart on the posts.
If snow came Dec. 1st and stayed on till
warm nights in the spring no other winter
mulch would be needed. But last winter
no snow here till after New Years, but con-
tinual freezing and thawing, and whatever
damage was done was done in early winter.
The safest way is to apply a good mulch.
58
POPULAR GARDENING.
December.
The Hydrangea as a Standard.
At a recent Horticultural Exhibition in
Kassel (Germany) a number of Hydrangeas
in standard form attracted considerable at-
tention. Our illustration gives a good pic-
ture of one of the specimens of Hydrangea
hortensis, seven years old.
The exhibitor (Mr. Winter) says that his
chief attention, during the first two years of
its life, was directed toward the formation
of the stem. The head was cut off entirely
at the beginning of the third year, and all
efforts now concentrated upon the formation
Ferns in the Sitting-Room Window.
The peculiar grace which is a character-
istic of Ferns attracts the attention and
admiration of many flower lovers, and at-
tempts are frequently made to cultivate
specimens in the window. These attempts
almost invariably end in failure, for the rea-
son that Ferns to thrive need a constant sup-
ply of moisture, far steadier and eveuer than
that which can be secured by any amount
of sprinkling or showering. What the Fern
wants, says Eben E. Rexford in the House-
wife, is not water on its leaves, but water in
the air in small quantities— enough in sus-
pension to make it moist and keep up a
steady humidity. Water on the fronds for
any length of time will injure them. In a
room that can be kept properly moist. Ferns
should never be showered. A fernery, while
it answers well for small plants, is not what
is required for large ones. I have seen a
window lately that was made cheaply, and
answered its purpose well.
Imagine a show-case the size of a window,
about a foot in depth, with sides and ends of
glass,as well as top, but without any bottom.
Now suppose you take this show-case and
set it up against a window of corresponding
size, with the glass top towards the room.
You would have a space enclosed on all sides
with glass. The glass of the show-case would
furnish enclosure in itself for all but one
side, and that one side, which the show-case
bottom was placed against, would be en-
closed by the window. The plan is, to have
a frame a foot or thereabouts in depth — a
foot and a half would be better — just the
size of the window, against which it must be
snugly fitted, and this frame is to be glassed
STANDARD HYDRANGEA HORTENSIS.
of a well-shaped head. The plant shown in
illustration is the result of this treatment
and four more years of growth, and its grace
and beauty well repays all the pains taken
with it. Standard specimens of the Hydran-
gea grandiflora were also on exhibit, and
not less attractive.
in on front, sides and top. A shelf at the sill
furnishes support for it. With such a frame
you have a space for plants, from which the
dry air of the room can be excluded, and in
wliich the proper moisture can be retained.
To be made perfectly convenient, the front
should be made like a door, and hung by
hinges, so that it could be swung open to al-
low you to get at the plants inside easily.
There will be crevices enough about the bot-
tom and sides for the admission of plenty of
warm air. The mndow which gave me the
idea had an extra sash outside, so that the
frost could not gather on the glass next the
plants. There were two wire shelves run-
ning across the enclosure, and at the bottom
there was a zinc pan the size of the space en-
closed, about five inches deep. This was
filled with wood's earth, in which plants
were set, and the surface was covered with
Moss and Lycopodiums. The center of the
pan was occupied by a very fine specimen of
the variegated Fern, Ptirls arricntea. On
the shelf above several pots of Maidenhair
stood, while the upper shelf had Adiaiitmn
ffraciUlm um, that most delicate of all Ferns.
The effect from the room, as you looked
out, was charming. The plants made a
filmy curtain of green lace for the ^andow.
They grew as well there as they would have
grovsTi in a greenhouse, because the glass
case protected them from the intense heat
of the room with its dry air. The water ap-
plied to the soil evaporated slowly, and was
condensed on the glass, where it ran down
to the bottom of the window and was taken
up by the earth in the pan, to be re-evapor-
ated. Thus the atmosphere was moist all
the time. The window was a fernery on
quite a large scale; an upright fernery, rath-
er than a flat one, or a square one, such as
we usually see.
Any carpenter can make the frame for the
glass, and be sure of getting a good fit if he
measures the window accurately. Before
setting the glass, the frame should be well
painted. Then bed the glass in aquarium
cement, and paint over all tlie wood not cov-
ered by glass or cement, to protect it from
the effect of too much moisture. A door
will be necessary to get at the plants from
time to time to remove dead leaves, and to
turn them as they draw towards the light,
aud for this reason there should be conveni-
ence of access. It will be best in all cases, I
am sure, to have the entire front like a door,
for this will allow you to get to any part ot
the enclosure with ease. In such a case you
can grow Rex Begonias and other plants
fond of shade aud moisture. The window
which you fit up for Ferns should never be a
very sunny one. An eastern exposure is
good. A north window will do very well.
About the Christmas Rose.
E. ORPET, PASSAIC CO., N. J.
The hardy flower garden is not the most
interesting place imaginable, now that win-
ter is upon us. The only place where flowers
are to be fotind is where the so-called X-mas
Roses grow, and well do they merit this
popular name. Helleborus niger is much
valued at this time for its pretty white
flowers, and justly so, but the subject of this
note is to be seen as I write, with pure white
flowers surrounded with its handsome ever-
green leaves, rising a foot above the carpet
of snow, as bright and fresh as if it had
never known a seven days' frost and snow.
In a collection of 18 species and varieties the
above is far the best. No collection of hardy
plants should be without H. niger maximus,
or major, as it is .sometimes called; both
names are applicable, the flowers being three
inches across, pure white inside, tinged with
pink outside.
The whole family thrives well in a shady,
place, so that they may not have the full
force of the summer sun. Given a good
depth of vegetable mould they will thrive
vigorously aud well repay any little care
bestowed upon them.
Rose Forcing by an Expert.
How to get Hybrid Remontants at Clirist-
mas, is a question very ably treated by Mr.
.John N. May in American Florist. Start by
having good plants in pots in June, he says.
Let the pots ( eight-inch size preferred) be
well drained with not less than two inches
of broken pots, coarse at bottom with some
finer pieces on top; over the whole place a
piece of very thin sod to keep the soil from
washing down into the crocking and filling
it up; this is a very important part of the
operation, as success depends entirely upon
the condition of the soil during the time the
plants are being forced into flower, tor they
require liberal waterings, aud the means for
all surplus water to drain away freely. Next
take a good quality of loam — old sod is
much the best, if heavy add a liberal pro-
portion of sand — and to every seven or eight
loads of soil add one of well decomposed
cow manure, broken up fine; thoroughly
IMPROVISED FORM FOR DECORATION. FIG. 2.
mix and if the soil is naturally very poor a
little pure ground bone may be added at the
same time. Then repot the plants into suit-
able-sized pots, pressing the soil firm around
the ball, Init do not break the young roots.
When this is done the plants should be
placed in the open air on a bed of coal ashes
and plunged nearly to the brims either in
coal ashes, sand, or similar material. Water
carefully and syringe frequently for the first
week to prevent them flagging in the hot
sun. As soon as the roots begin to get well
hold of the new soil, they will push out soft
new growth; this must be watched carefully
as at this late date it would be fatal to suc-
cess if the eyes at the base of the strong
shoots should start into growth, and to avoid
this it will be necessary to watch the water-
ing very carefully so that they are not over-
watered; the object being to get new roots
without producing very much soft young
wood; so long as the new growth is confined
to the tops of the shoots already made, no
harm can come.
Let them continue in this way till about
the middle of August, then commence to
withhold the water from them, gradually of
course at first, aud continue to lessen the
quantity every day till the wood becomes
quite hard; but try to retain some leaves on
them to keep the sap balanced between root
and branch. By the middle of September
they ought to stand for a week at a time
without any moisture at all other than the
dews at night. Should wet weather occur
during this period, means must be provided
to prevent it getting to the roots— laying the
pots on their side with pieces of boards laid
over the pots is as good a means as any— for
dry they must be kept or there will be no
Roses when wanted.
If they have been properly treated, by the
Istof October the wood will be hard and solid
without its being shrivelled, with the leaves
turning a pale green. In this condition they
1889.
POPULAR GARDENING.
59
are lit to pruuo; in doing so cut back to a
good proininent eye on each shoot, clean off
nicely, stand them in a cool frame if to he
had, water moderately ami syringe three or
four times a day, shut up the frame on cool
nights, or during cold rains, and in ten to
flfteendays the eyes will have broken nicely-
They should then be removed to a green
house where the temperature can be kept at
46° to ■«<■ at night with plenty of air during
line days, and watered, syringed, etc., as re-
quired. About every ten to twelve days the
temperature should be increased two or
three degrees at night with less proportion
of air during the day according to the
weather. As soon as the buds are set they
will be greatly benelited by having a good
watering or liquid manure twice a week,
but they shotild never be saturated or given
more water till the soil in the pot is in a
healthy condition for the roots to absorb the
water given. Plants treated this way will
be in bloom in ten to twelve weeks from the
time they are pruned.
Varieties.— Those most suitable for this
purpose are: Gen. Jacqueminot, Magna
Charta, Anna de Diesbach and Mrs. John
Laing, though the latter is hardly as good
for earliest pot work as the other three. For
blooming in February or even end of Jan-
uary there are a great many good varieties,
but for most people the following are per-
haps—including those named above and
Mme. Gabriel Luizet, one of the finest Roses
ever raised — the best : Ulrich Bninner,
another grand Rose, and the new variety
Gloire de Margottin, one of the brightest
colored Roses known; Baroness Rothschild,
Mabel Morrison and La Roserie. This gives
all the most desirable shades of color, and
all are good Roses.
For later blooming the varieties that can
be had in perfection are almost legion; with
of course less trouble as the plants can be
allowed to grow on naturally till frost stops
their growth, and then by placing them in
a cool house or like place they can be pruned
and brought into the greenhouse as required.
One very important item in their cultiva-
tion during the time they are in the open
air is that they should never he saturated
with water for any length of time or the
WIRE FRAME FOR TABLE DECORATION. FIG. 1.
result will be fatal, as black spot will soon
have supreme control.
Holiday Table Decorations.
The possession of a little natural taste and
talent, and the utilization of simplest de
vices, are, after all, the only things needful
to be able to make a very creditable and at-
tractive display in table decorations with
comparatively little floral material. The
objectionable feature of crowding plants and
flowers can easily be avoided by making use
of the very primitive devices illustrated in
Figs. 1 and 2, and of many other similar
ones. In Fig. 1 we see a wire frame too sim-
ple to need description. Killed with Roses,
Asters and other flowers, nicely arranged
on Fern leaves, and a few green sprigs of
some suitable material, il appears in very
attractive garb as the table decoration Fig,
3. In Fig. 'J we have a sample of flower and
fruit frame, consisting of plate, fruit dish
and tumbler, and in Fig. 4 the complete
soon as they arrive, but, instead, we set them
out in rows in a nursery patch we keep for
this purpose, and where we give them good
attention, and mulch the ground about them.
This was the way with these Andromedas,
and we mulched about them with tree leaves.
They had been in these rows two years, and
la.st week when 1 lifted them to tran.splant
TABLE DECORATION, FIG. 3.
decoration, with fruits and flowers in pleas-
ing and tasty array.
We need hardly say that these devices are
merely given as samples. They may be var-
ied in a thousand and one different ways,
according to your own fancy and the mater-
ials at hand. The devices may be primitive,
and the decorative material common — a few
flowers, a few Ferns, perhaps some Celery
or Parsley leaves, and some] Apples, Pears,
Grapes, etc., but they can be made to con-
tribute largely to the enjoyment of a meal.
Leaf Mold for Shrubs.
The value of leaf mold as an admixture
to potting and other soils is generally rec-
ognized; not so, however, the advisability
of gathering dry forest leaves in fall or win-
ter for the sake of the mold to be obtained
from them by composting. Where mold
can be scooped up from the woods ready-
made, of course we would gladly avail our-
selves of the opportunity to get a supply for
whatever purpose we might wish to use it.
Otherwise we would not scorn to gather up
dry leaves in fall and winter whenever prac-
ticable. We are glad to note so good an
authority as Mr. Wm. Falconer come out in
favor of the practice. "*
A large bed of Rhododendrons had be-
come too crowded, so he tells the Country
Gentleman, and it was resolved to lift and
replant them. They had been planted five
years and grown bushy and tall. Every fall
(November) when the Oak trees shed their
leaves we raked up large quantities of the
dry leaves and mulched the bed with them
to a depth of 12 or l-") inches, letting the
mulching stay there permanently, and year
after year adding to it a like amount. By
fall the mulching would have rotted down
to two or three inches in thickness. In lift-
ing these Rhododendrons we found that the
great mass of young fibrous roots were in
the leaf mold on the sm-face of the soil, and
keeping this point in mind, in replanting
we threw several shovelfuls of prepared leaf
soil from the compost yard around the ball
of every Rhododendron. And as soon as
the bed was replanted we again mulched it
with leaves to preserve the fine surface root-
lets from drying up by the wind.
Another notable case of the partiality of
shrubs for leaf mold was evidenced in a lot
of A ndromcda Japan ten. When we receive
fine trees from home or foreign nurseries,
we do not plant them out permanently as
DECORATION. FIG. 4.
them elsewhere to their permanent quarters'
I found that not only had they, like the
Rhododendrons, made a carpet of fine, white,
fibrous roots among the leaf soil, but what-
ever branches had laid upon the mulching
had emitted roots, and that plentifully,
wherever they touched the ground. In re-
planting them, too, I used leaf mold freely
about their roots.
We use a great deal of leaf soil for this
work. We not only gather up and save the
leaves that fall upon our own place, but we
go out into the woods in early spring or late
winter, as soon as the snow has gone, and
rake up a large quantity, cart them home
and make a pile of them where they will re-
main moist and not blow away. Towards
spring, after the leaves have lain on the
ground under the rain and snow all winter,
they have begun to decay, and we can pack
a very great deal more of them into a wagon
than we can when they are fresh in the fall.
Some years ago I raked large quantities of
leaves in the woods in the fall and left them
in piles in hoUow places till towards spring,
when I intended to bring them home. But
when spring came I found that some of my
neighbors had availed themselves of my
kindness, so now I cart the leaves home as
I rake them up.
But when people have only a few Ever-
green shrubs to plant, they can get all the
leaf soil they want by scraping together
some of the surface earth they will get in the
hollows in roads.
1,443. Wintering Fuchsias. Fuchsias may be
wintered very well in a dark cellar, if it is dry,
so that the plants do not mold. Late in the fall
withhold (Water gradually until the leaves drop
otf . then put them awa.v in tbls dormant condi-
tion, bringini? out again in March or as early as
j is feasible.— S. C. Valentine.
' 1,467. Tuberoses, These bulbs do not bloom
i a second time. The little offsets, if preserved in
an equable temperature, will bloom the first
season they reach blooming size.— C. S. V.
1,4)43. Propagating Carnations. This is done
both by seed and by cuttings. The cooler months
are best for both. Cuttings may be struck any
time from now until April — later they do not do
so well— in a cool temperature with light bottom
heat. For amateurs, summer la.vering is apt to
be the surest plan, as slips are ditficult to root
without bottom heat.— C. S. Valentine.
1,466. Laying Down Orape Vines. This should
be done after trimming and before severe freez-
ing weather, say during the latter half of No-
vember in the vicinity of Plattsburgh. Delaware
is hardy if laid down; and probably would te in
heltered situations it not covered.— C. S. V.
6o
POPULAR GARDENING.
December,
The Wish of the Leaf.
" To be a bird— ah me : "
The leaf sighed on the tree;
" What happy, happy fate,
To glide upon the air
O'er regions free and falj-,
And chant at " Heaven's Gate I "
*' Oh, envj'lng Leaf, beware !
Already joy's full share
Lies in thine own true place; "
A laughing gale passed by—
" I'll teach the leaf to fly.
And ride through distant space."
Then down from its brief height,
Down from the air and light.
Far from its sheltering tree
The leaf was cast. All day
In feverish dust it lay.
And torn with misery.
— The Independent.
Summer Not The Best.
As for the *' golden days," why, countless flies
And torrid heat were much their strongest features;
And her " calm silver nights " mosquitoes brought,
And many other wily, winged creatures.
Besides which (and oh! poets, when I think
Of them, at your regret again I wonder).
Her "gentle show'rs" so often scared the world
With lightning flashes and terrlflic thunder.
No, no, "sweet Summer," me you do not leave
Singing in minor key half broken-hearted;
Let other rhymsters mourn that you are gone;
I'm very glad, indeed, you have departed.
—Detroit Free Press.
December.
Month for flre and glowing ember.
Is the last one, cold December.
Time for gay frolic and for fun.
Which the short days leave just begun.
Little Bun, little bloom !
As to size fit the tree to the yard.
Let cione t)e cut before it freezes hard.
Pansies, like Wheat, need but a thin covering.
We predict no failure in the Christmas tree
crop.
Fewer fences reduce expenses and increase
profits.
Winter watering for pot plants should be fore-
noon watering.
Kill not the house plants with kindness, nor
cook them in the kitchen.
Paris Golden Celery is a new variety reported
on favorably in the Boston markets.
The good Cineraria grower guards his plants
from even the slightest contact with frost.
If plants don't " catch cold " in a draught they
come near to it. Keep off the cold draughts.
Is there any decaying fruit iu the cellar? It
must not be. It means ill health to the family.
Unlcliing and manuring is now the order of
the day; mind culture the order of the long
evenings.
Like a Banana, A good Apple without seed
or core is a thing worth striving for. We think
it will come.
The Kansas State Horticnltnral Society holds
its annual meeting at Paola, Miami Co., Decem-
ber .3 to .5, IS»9.
The Cauliflower crop seems to have been some-
what of a failure In its own stronghold, on Long
Island, this year.
Messrs, Cnrrie Bros., of Milwaukee, Wis,, now
add one more " rust-proof " Bean, the " Rust
Proof Golden Wax," to an already long list of
recent introductions,
" The weeds must go," says Dakota, and woe
to the man who harbors them, A noxious weed-
law, strictly enforced, would not hurt this State
and many others either.
For the Tomato rot try sulphide of potassium
in solution (one ounce to the gallon of water) on
the diseased plants, sulphur and linseed oil on the
pipes, and a liry atmosphere in the house.
Deep Tillage. I have been laughed at, if not
scoffed, for plowing a piece of land for a vineyard
a foot deep with four horses, but I And it pays
in more than one way.— F. H. JVeidenmUler.
Cnt-flowers when immersed into a solution of
gum arable, repeating once or twice after the
gum coat has (Iried on them, are said to be pre-
served in all their beauty, and for a long time.
White Grapes. Go slow on planting them.
This advice given at the meeting of the American
Horticultural Society at Cleveland, several years
ago, is again heard, and apparently in still louder
and more emphatic tones.
Lack of Pollen, which so often results in par-
tial or entire barrenness of many fruit and nut
trees, does not seem to be a fault of the Kussian
fruits. Abundance of pollen, and plenty of
fruit in consequence, is the rule with them.
Wax Plant. I have four varieties of Hoya,
H. coronosa, H. imperialis, H. variegata and H.
globulosa, and I am anxious to add the H. bella
to my list. All do excellently in this cUmate, as
do the Oleanders.— JIfrs. F. M. Parchal, Texas.
Grafting Wax. For a good one, neither too
soft nor too stiff, try the following: 4 pounds
rosin, 1 pound bees wax, 1 pint boiled Unseed oil.
Melt, and when sufBciently cool, pull like taffy
and form into balls or sticks. Be sure to have
unadulterated linseed oil.
No Apples to be shipped from this great fruit
section this year. Thousands, tens, and perhaps
hundreds of thousands of barrels are brought
here from Michigan and stored. The whole crop
of real good fruit grown in Niagara County is
probably within 3,000 barrels.
Yon visit the city occasionally, don't you ? But
do you ever go through the markets, carefully
noting what products bring the best prices, and
how they are handled and packed? Such exam-
ination may suggest reforms and changes in
selection of varieties and methods.
Bosebng Eemedy. It is said that laying the
vines on the ground late in the fall, and then
again tying to trellis after mild weather begins
in spring, will induce early blossoming and a
consequent early development of the clusters
before the bugs make their appearance.
Layering Jacqueminots. The only way that I
have succeeded in increasing Jacqueminot Roses
is by pegging down the lower limbs. Cut the
branch halt way through on the lower side .so it
will root more readily. Cuttings have always
failed with me, no matter how the season, or
what the condition.— ^rgi/nn is.
Tree of Ages, A Plane tree (Cottonwood) that
was a vigorous tree during the Revolution is
reported to still stand on George Sanger's farm
in Canterbury, Conn. It is seventy feet high,
the body measuring sixteen feet in circumfer-
ence two feet from the groimd, and of the same
size around twenty-five feet above.
The cumulative effect of the sulphate of cop-
per mixtures where applications are made year
after year for fungus disease', is the subject we
would like to hear about. Reports are certainly
now in order. WiB continued treatment year
after year tend to wipe out the rots and mildews?
There should at least be some indication to that
effect by this time.
The largest tree in Florida is said to stand
between Long\vood and Soldiers'Creek, in Orange
County. It is a Cypress, which by actual meas-
urement is 14 feet in diameter just above the
ground. This is solid wood. There is none of
the inverted funnel shape so common in the
Cypress, but it comes out of the ground straight
as a candle, and at tiO feet from the ground the
diameter is estimated at 10 feet.
Paragon Chestnut, Messrs, H. M. Engle & Son
of Lancaster Co., Pa., have forwarded to this office
some specimens of this really excellent Chestnut
of enormous size, one of them measuring 1%
inches in width, 1% inches in height, and 1 inch
in depth. We have before this seen burrs con-
taining five and even six large nuts. Messrs.
Engle & Son write that the nuts are unusually
large this season, the trees not Ijeing overloaded
as is usually the case.
A new parasite of the codling moth which is
classed as a new species of the genus Bethylus
has been discovered. The larvse feed externally
on the codlin worm. Whether this discovery,
however, will be of much practical importance
to the fruit grower or not remains to be seen.
Probable it will not, unless we learn to breed and
distribute these insect pai'asites in a more system-
atic manner from what we have been able to do
heretofore.
A pleasing custom that is now gaining a foot-
hold in many German houses is to keep a small
Balsam Evergreen tree growing in a tub or box.
The children are sure to pet it and care for it, for
they know they will find it in full glory and dec-
orated in true Christm<as fashion upon the Christ-
mas table, with the rich presents spread out under
its branches. The same tree may thus serve this
purpose for a number of years. When too large
it is replaced by a smaller specimen.
A veritable bush lima, and a good one, too,
from all accounts, is being introducjed for next
spring by Messrs. W. AUee Burpee & Co., of
Philadelphia, Pa. While the price set on this
novelty is meant to be in a measure prohibitory
on account of small stock in existence, we think
that 75 cents can be invested much less profitab-
ly in many other ways than by the purchase of 4
Beans, provided the novelty turns out half as
valuable as claimed tor it. Of course we shall
have it on our experiment grounds next season,
and in fact we are enthusiastic over it already.
To set a post firmly and solidly, for a green-
house, for instance, or for a gate post, our friend
Pierce now thinks he has the right recipe. The
holes are dug 33 inches deep and 8x18 inches in
size (the broad way in the direction of the green-
house wall or the fence), the posts inserted and
held perpendicularly in center by means of a few
small stones blockeil up around it, and the holes
then filled two-thirds full with cheap cement
mortar, one part cement to six of sand. The
hole is now filled up with coarse gravel until the
mortar runs out of the hole, and when the latter
has become dry, the post stands firm and im-
movable.
Nothing For Sale, J. W. L., of Delaware, who
apparently has never seen a copy of Popui.ar
Gardening, asks us to send him catalogue, if
possible with instructions on Mushroom culture.
While every one of our readers will consider it
self-evident that we issue no catalogue, since we
as publishers naturallj' keep our hands off any
commercial enterprise that might call for the
expedient of a catalogue, we think it may be
well to emphasize the latter fact by stating for
the benefit of the applicant, and of all whom it
may concern, we have absolutely nothing to sell
except subscriptions to and advertising space in
POPULAB Gardening. J. W. L. will find instruc-
tions on Mushroom growing in November issue.
The Garden Fence. The crusade against fences
which the American Garden is so vigorously es-
pousing, might be very well were there no dogs,
no destructive boys, no drunken rowdies, no
occasional stray cattle and hogs, and we were go-
ing to sa.v, no fine gardens along our streets. Our
own association with good gardens in city, \-illage
and country has been such that we never could
feel easy to have our valuable tree, shrub and
plant pets, and our fine fruit subjected to the
above evils, as certainly is sure to happen at
times if there be no street fence. Popular
Gardening must still advise those who spend
their precious money and time in having a fine
garden, to erect the fence, but let it be so light
and unobtrusive that it will not cut off the
beauty back of it.
The improved plant pot. picture, of which is
here shown, is an English invention. It is nothing
IIVIPROVED PLANT POT.
more nor less than one pot susi>ended in another,
and the advantages claimed for it are (1) the pro-
tection of the inner pot from the heat of the sun,
thereby preventing the roots being burnt, and
ensuring a more even moisture and temperature
about the roots; Ci) less watering required, con-
sequently less labor; (S) economy of manure, by
reason of its strength not being washed away by
such frequent waterings; (4) security against
intrusion of worms; (.5) greater base to the pot,
hence less risk of being blown or knocked over;
(B) avoidance, in a great measure, to the alternate
roasting and drenching which the roots experi-
ence in hot weather. These pots are especially
designed tor Chrysanthemums.
Fitzwater Pear. Mr. Herbert A. Jones of Him-
rods, N. Y., has forwarded to this office a basket
1889.
POPULAR GARDENING.
61
of spcciiiu'iis of this pear early >" Nmcralier.
The whole of this season's erop of the (iriiriaal
tree mow ;iO or 40 years old) is thus ilistributed
amoiiK ineml'ci-s of the Amerieaii Niirsery-
men's Association for testing, whieh we think is
a Kood and eomnieudable praetiee. Peai-s ar-
rived in stood eoiidition. Fruit medium size;
abovate. obtuse pyriform: color, bright golden
yellow on greenish ground, with numerous small
brownish dots or specks over the whole surface,
and sprinkleil with russet; stem nearly an inch
long; calyx large, open. Quality \erj' good;
tlesh juicy, melting, aromatic; its only fault
being a slight tendency to rot
from the core. The tree is
said to lie a vigorous grower,
very productive and an annual
bearer. .Altogether it seems to
be well worthy of trial.
The little brown jug is often
looked upon and drawn upon
as a protraction against both
heat and cold— in short, as a
sort of " lite preserver," and
although, indeed, it oftener
destro.vs than preserves. Now
a lady often uses it -and the
two gallon size at that— as a
preserver of plant life. When
the real bitter cold and the
howling winds make them-
selves felt clear into! the sitting
room and among the window
plants, so that it is feared they
may freeze the coming night,
the jug is filled with water-
good, hot water, no whiskey,
mind you— wrapped in a num-
ber of thicknesses of news-
paper, layer after layer, to
modify, preserve and equalize
the heat, then placed on the
table and the tender plants
around it, like little chicks
crowding around and hovered by the old hen. A
large sheet is finally thrown over the whole, and
held up liy little sticks thrust into the plant pots.
This method of protection is reported to be
etfectual without fail, and may be easily tried
by our friends.
Yoang Trees and Shrnbs in Winter. The aim
in giving any kind of winter protection is merely
to preserve the gains made in root or top growth
during the preceding season. At a in our illus-
tration we show a j^oung tree well jjrotected both
by stake and mound. A few stones piled around
the stem, as shown at b. will often do very well,
at least are much better than no protection at
all, but will not prevent injury from rabbits and
mice, as the mound is quite liable to do. Young
trees with little root, when left exposed to the
sweeping winds without support, usually are
swayed back and forth until a funnel-shaped
cavity is formed around the base, as may be seen
at c, endangering the life of the tree from the
drying out of the alread.v scanty root supply, or
perhaps by being entirely blown over as .seen at
d. Young Evergreens with their comparatively
heavy tops are particularly subject to displace-
ment or partial uprooting by the winter's winds,
and may be held in position by stout strings
fastened to the stem and to small stakes driven
into the ground a few feet from the base of tree,
as shown at e. Small, compact Evergreens are
liable to be broken down in a heavy snowfall —
squashed— and the most natural protection per-
haps is the one suggested at /, consisting of a
sort of roof made of two pieces of board. Tender
shrubs may be treated in a variety of ways. At
g we have a shrub protected by an inverted
barrel. To make a sure thing still surer, the other
head might be taken out also, the barrel filled
with dry leaves and again cohered. At h we see
the shrub wrapped in canvas or mushn and at i
protected by straw ot straw matting. A simple
way of covering small tender shrubbery is by
means of sods, as illustrated at./, but ordinary
soil, as at k, will do about as well. A little timely
attention to these things may save some of your
young trees and shrubs from injury. Examine
their condition now, and see if you cannot put
some of our suggestions to practical use.
An Interesting Datnra. I have a Datura,
which the German florist of whom I bought it
called " Bergantia." It answers the description
of Datura cornigera in every respect, except
" single flowered." My Howers have two rows of
petals or lobes, the recurved (>oints of the inner
lobes being midway between the outer ones.
Coralla white, or cream-colored, large funnel-
shaped, striateti, the m<)uth spreading, the lobes
terminated by a long sul)ulate recurved jjoint;
peduncles axillary, cur\<ii downward so that the
flower is drooping. Lea\cs chiefly couHnecl to
the extremities of the braiuhes. Stem shrubby;
the young bi-anchesand alnit)st every part of the
plant clothed with soft down. I am much inter-
ested in this plant, because it affords me such a
wealth of bloom for decorative purposes. I
planted out the middle of .May two plants, one
one year old, the other two years old. They
budded at once, but a slight frost the first week
in June caused them to drop their buds, but did
PROTECTING YOUNG TREES AND SHRUBS IN WINTER
not injure the plant. My husband said they
needed food, so we dug a trench around them
and ailed it with chicken manure, with a pail of
water every day for several days. From the last
of June until frost T picked on an average from
40 to 51) flowers a week. The larger of the two
plants was five feet high and five feet across. I
kept them in the house last winter, and found
out by experience that they liked an eastern
exposure, that they consumed a large quantity \
of water, that continual syringing was absolutely
requisite to keep off red spider, etc., that they
quickly resented neglect by dropping both leaves
and buds, but that with proper care they would
bloom magnificently. I have charge of our
church decorations, and not only furnish the
flowers, but grow them. I often filled a large
Rose jar with these Datura, with a few feathery
spikes of Asparagus, or pulled up a plantof Cloth
of Gold Nasturtium, letting the leaves hang
all around the bowl like a fringe with the flowers
above them; or with vines of Adlumia or Aspar-
agus tenuissimus, and they were grand enough
for a queen. People stop me in the streets, on
the cars, everywhere, asking me about them,
and people with fine country homes and grand
conservatories beg tor a slip, and say they ne\er
saw anything so beautiful. The flowers are
fragrant like the Tuberose, only not so strong.—
Mrs. Georgina M. WiUl, Ills.
New York Floral Notes.
Chrysanthemums and (.'hrysanthemum shows
are the leading topic just now, and both are plen-
tiful enough. The show at Brick Church, of the
Orange Society, was, of coui'se, largest and best,
but a very good display was made by Siebrecht
and Wadley at their Fifth avenue store, and there
was a fine exhibit of the ITnited States Nurser-
ies. The show at the .\merican Institute was,
really, a little too late.
The most elegant and unique of all the shows
was that arranged for the benefit of theWomen's
Infirmary, held in the studio of Mr. Louis C. Tif-
fany, the well-known artist and designer. Mr.
Tiffany is the possessor of a large collection of
Japanese curios, and the arrangement of the
glowing, gorgeous Chrysanthemums, mingled
with rare bronzes and beautiful china, presented
a wonderful picture. Ladies in attendance wore
authentic Japanese costumes, and the artistic
grouping of the flowers gave many ideas for in-
terior decoration. It is a pity that such arrange-
ments are not attempted at the ordinary shows,
giving an idea of the use of such plants in decor-
ation; they certainly show to greater advantage
than when just stood aromid in groups without
any apparent reason.
Chrysanthemums were, really, very dear the
earlier part of the seas(m, owing, no doubt, to
the continued rain. Somi' florists declared they
could hardly afford to rctuil them, as they had to
buy them at a high price and sell at a low one;
retail customers know that they are regarded as
a cheap flower, and consequeutl.v demand what
they consider their money's worth. There seems
little doubt that the coming of the Chrysanthe-
mums does reduce the price of other flowers, so
long as they last. These flowers are better
arranged now; we do not
so very often see Ferns or
other delicate foliage mingled
with them; a terribly mistaken
combination. Heavy Ferns or
autumn leaves only are per-
missible. A charming arrange-
ment recently noted in a flor-
ist's window was a dull red
Japanese jar filled with Golden
Dragon Chrysanthemums and
the burnished red-bronze
leaves of the Black Oak.
Among new varieties. Dr.
Walcott's collection embraces
some very fine things. Shasta
and Alaska are two whites of
great exceUence, both large
and shapely flowers, long-
stemmed, with robust foliage
growing right up to the flower.
There are some very fine I'ich
yellows in the same coUection,
all promising well for com-
mercial use. Every year one
sees a number of new varie-
ties, which, whUe they may be
added to a general collection,
possess little commercial value
for lack of a distinctive color.
Undecided, tertiary colors are
comparatively useless in the trade; they are not
sufliciently showy or distinct.
Mrs. Alpheus Hardy is better this year than
last, as seen at Short Hills. .\ good many seed-
lings have been raised from it, but so far none of
them appear to display the downy covering which
is such a remarkable feature of that flower. A
straw-colored seedling from Comte.de.Germiny,
recently noted at a small local show, displayed a
few tiny scattering hairs, recalling Mrs. Alpheus
Hardy's peculiarity.
Some charming breakfast and luncheon decor-
ations lately have consisted entirely of Chrysan-
themums, yellow and white. These two tints are
certainly more popular than all the rest put to-
gether. In one case, the middle of the table was
filled with a bed of yellow and white Chrysanthe-
mums, standing upright, bordered byAsparagus,
and the room was arranged with the same plants
in pots. A library, furnished in ecru and bronze,
was decorated with red and orange Chrysanthe-
mums arranged in jars of Indian red pottery.
Another brighter room was arranged with old
pink Chrysanthemums in dull blue jars. Really,
everything seemed to smack of Chrysanthemums
all through November. At many church wed-
dings these flowers did duty in yellow and white.
White ones, in pots, ranged along the altar rails,
banks of yellow and white, backed by Palms, on
either side of the chancel, and bunches disposed
at the corners of the pen railings. Bridesmaids
carried them, either in loose hand bunches— no
set bouquets— or tied by broad ribbons to tall La
Tosca canes.
At present there are very few Orchids in the
market, so these flowers are not very largely
used, but later there will cert<iiuly be an enorm-
ous crop. Think of 1«,000 Cypripedum insigne
from one place alone, and probably as many
Cattleyas ! Seems as if ( irchids might be cheap
when the dull time comes after the holidays.
Some pretty mantel arrangements have been
noted, composed of potted Cyclamens, which
lend themselves very well to any banked arrange-
ment, their leaves adding greatly to the effect.
A beautiful ornament for a bay window is a
long window box or jardiniere, planted with Ivy
whieh is trained over a gilt Bamboo screen. Oth-
er flowering plants may be added to the jardinere,
to fill up. This screen may be utilized in many
ways; it is often seen decorated with flowers, or
used as a support for favors.
The few good Beauty Roses now coming in,
show that this Rose's popularity is not at all on
the wane, though other varieties are being ex-
tensively boomed. Emily Louise Taplin.
62
POPULAR GARDENING.
December.
SOCIETIES
lEIWMHTERThAl Dbsw?ve*
FRoH<
TO BETWISEIYKMOW^
Good Fruit Pays. I have
lOver known the time when
really choice Apples would
not bring a fair price.— v4 . ('.
Brtmmond.
Choice Fruit Only Worth
Baising. Prices have faUen
so low for ordinary fruit
that only that of the best
quality ^vill pay the grower.— E. A. R.
Advertising Exhibits. An intelligent report
of a worthy show in the press will do more to
make an exhibition a success than any one thing
else.— i/'dicij! Lonsilale.
Prolonging the Bloom, The flowers should
always be picked clean, to prevent seeding, es-
pecially Sweet Peas. HoUyhocliS have been had
in flower in October by picking off the seed pods.
—Mr. Jordan.
Le Conte as Stock. The Le Coute Pear is a fine
grower ami makes good roots. Hence I plant it
and then after a year or two graft over with any
other desirable kind. Bartlett is perhaps the
best paying of all, but with me Howell has done
just as weU.— Alton Southeru UU. Hnrt. Society.
Oarber and Clapp's Favorite. The Garber
Pear has all the good bearing qualities of Kieffer
and is much more palatable, and much hand-
somer, being the handsomest Pear I know of
of a rich golden yellow.with a red cheek. Clapp's
Favorite is no good; it rots at the core.— E. A. R.
Apples Will Pay, If I were a young man
again, I should plant Apple trees. There have
been none planted in this region for many years,
and the old trees are all d)-ing out and in a few
years there will be a lack of this good old king
fruit.— Co!. Miles hefore the Alton Southern Ilk.
Hort. Socirty.
Early Kunners Best. Plant in checks of three
feet, and cultivate both ways early in the season
and later only one way. I like to have my run-
ners root eai-ly liecause a plant made early in the
season will be surer of bearing a good crop than
one made later. 1 know that some varieties like
Cumberland Triumph, and Downing will give
no fruit at all on late-rooted plants.— E. A. Riehl.
Perle Koses on Banksia. Seven years ago I
budded a few Perles on both white and yellow
Banksia. 1 had a dozen of the ESanksia Ko.se, six
white and six yellow, from Mr. Ilarry. When
they threw up strong shoots from the root, 1 put
a bud on each shoot about six inches from the
ground. That dozen Perles grew and flourished,
and they have been blooming ever since, so that
I could not bear to pull them out. I can say that
I never had a bull-nose or a bad bud in the lot.
I emphatically say that the Banksia is a grand
stock for budding the Perle upon.— J. D. Rey-
nolds, Inforc American Society of Fl07-ists.
Now for the Babbit. To protect the bodies of
■ young trees, set laths or split staves aroimd them
and tie the tops fast to the tree by means of a
cord. It snow is so deep that rabbits can walk
among the branches of the trees, they must be
trapped, poisoned or otherwise destroyed. Rab-
bits are easily caught in fig. 4 traps. Bait the trap
with a sweet Apple. Then catch him. Now pro-
ceed to eat him. But the easiest way to destroy
them is by the use of poisoned fragments of
sweet Apple placed on sticks a few inches above
the snow. This is very effective. The animal in
question is usually found beside the Apple or
outside it.— Minnc.fola Uort. Suciety.
Native Trees for Home Ornament. That which
grows naturally in any region is what will last
the longest, ^\^lat can surpass in beauty of
form and appearance our own native .\sh and
Elmy Where is there an evergeen that grows
more rapidly or is of a deeiier or more pleasing
color than the common Cedar of our own clime?
It Thomas Jefferson had tilled his grounds with
the foiest-life of other regions instead of leaving
the desired number of that which was already
growing there, or planted kinds indigenous to
the country, there would be none whate\'er of
the evidences of his labor and his taste in this
direction now left to adorn the spot he had
turned intobeauty.- Jfrs. Doster before the
Knii.<a> llitrticuUural Society.
Bussian Apples. Some of the Russians in
bearing on the grounds of Mr. Tuttle of Baraboo
were ivery handsome in appearance and fair in
quality, and several kinds of summer and tall
Apples are worthy of trial in our state ; but we
found nothing that we think will be satisfactory
as a long keeper as far south as Central Illinois.
-Among their much-lauded seedlings the same
conditions seem to prevail. On the grounds of
that veteran horticulturist and experimenter,
Peter M. Gideon, on the shores of Lake Minne-
tonka, we found a number of new varieties
which are spoken very highly of by those who
have seen and tested the fruit I think they will
be late tall Apples in this latitude. In my
opinion the coming hoped-for long-keeping
Apple will most probably be of southern origin.
—A. r. Hammond, to the nb. State Hoii. Society.
Lettuce Uildew. Fresh soU should be used in
growing Lettuce wherever possible to do so, and
when mildew appears on Lettuce it should be
prevented from spreading by running the green-
house as dry and warm as possible, without in-
juring the Lettuce, for a day or two, which will
kill the summer spores. All dead mildewed
leaves should be destroyed when a crop of Let-
tuce is cleared up, for these may contain the
winter spores. This Lettuce mildew may be
found on other plants resembling the Lettuce,
and on certain plants that are to be found on our
fields and roadsides, and these may spread to our
fields and greenhouses. The delicate nature of
the Lettuce leaf makes it hard to apply anything
which will destroy the spores without injury to
theleat. Vigorous plants in thrifty growth are
less likely to be injured by mildew than sickly
ones — just as a healthy man will resist contagion.
Boston Market Gardeners' Association.
Mulching Strawberries. After the ground
has frozen, mulch one-half to two inches deep
according to the material used. Anything that
has no seed, and will shade and hide the plants
will do for mulch. The germs of the fruit buds
are formed in the fall. It is therefor important
that the ground be prevented from heaving.
This is done by enough mulch over the surface
to shade it, and thus prevent the sudden freezing
and thawing. In localities where the snow cov-
ers the ground nearly all winter, mulching is not
so necessary, or at least need not be put on so
liberally. The mulch is not only a protection to
the plants through the winter, but it keeps the
fruit clean, and makes it better in every respect.
1 prefer coarse stable manure for mulch, if free
from Timothy and weed seeds. The winter
rains will wash the fertilizing elements into the
ground, and leave a clean litter for mulch. If
the mulch is thick on the rows it must be loosened
up in early spring so that plants can come
through readily.— JacoZ) FaiHi, Vernon Co. (Mo.)
Society.
Village Horticultural Exhibition. In Al-
lington, an English village of three hundred in-
habitants, the annual exhibition of fruits,
flowers, and vegetables, again turned out a bril-
liant success. In all the classes the competition
was remarkabl}' keen, for every inhabitant of
that little village is a born gardener— if only an
amateur. The window plants staged were speci-
ally good, while a prize offered for the best col-
lection of culti\ ated flowers brought forth some
exc*!llent examples of amateurs' skill in garden-
ing. The same may be said of most of the veg-
etables that were staged; some, indeed, would by
no means disgrace a stand of a professional
grower and exhibitor. A pretty feature in vil-
lage shows is the wild flower competition, and to
show the enthusiasm with which the children of
the village now under notice entered into such
things, it need only be stated that upwards of fifty
exhibits of wild fiowers were staged at the above
show; which is solely confined to residents of the
village. If a little rural spot like this can suc-
cessfully hold its annual fioral exhibition.obvious-
ly to the welfare of the inhabitants, what ought
larger places to do?
Mignonette for Winter. Raising Mignonette
requires three elements — a good soil; good, clear
dry atmosphere, and common sense. First of all
you want a healthy soil, dug good and deep, not
too rich. Sow your seed very thinly, keep your
house just as cool as possible, water when it is
necessary, and you cannot fail to have good Mig-
nonette. If you want the extra large spikes of
Mignonette, such as are produced in the New
York and other markets, you must disbud all the
minor shoots which come below the flower spike,
thereby increasing the length of your fiower
spike. Many people suppose that it needs a great
deal of strong fertilizing, or in other words,
heavy liquid dressing. It does not. Give it all
the air you can in winter, and have yimr disbud-
ding well done. Then you cannot help having
good Mignonette, provided you have a good
stock to start with. We sow any time from the
first of May to the first of October, according to
the season for which it is wanted. If you want
Mignonette to be in bloom and ready to use at
Christmas, you Avill have to sow it before the first
of September. The rows are 1h inches apart, and
plants left 12 inches apart in the rows.— J. A".
May, hefore the American Society of Florists.
Lettuce Tinder Glass. At a recent meeting of
the Boston Market Gardeners' Association Mr.
W. H. Derby pronounced Lettuce one of the
most profitable crops of the market garden, be-
ing in constant demand throughout the whole
year. Although prices ruled very low last fall
and winter, he was disposed to think that the
overproduction was only temporary, and that,
unless we discover some effective remedy for the
mildew and rot. Lettuce growing will not be
overdone for sometime to come. Mr. Derby grows
winter Lettuce mostly in hotbeds. For this pur-
pose he used one foot in depth of good horse
manure covered with seven to nine inches of
loam, and was in the habit of taking two crops
in succession from most of the beds. In severe
weather the heat will need some renewing after
the first crop is taken out. He considers green-
houses far better than hotbeds for winter work,
and for growing plants for the beds. The worst
pests of the Lettuce grower are mildew and rot
about which very little is known. The best food'
for Lettuce is horse manure. It is not so easy to
grow good Lettuce now as formerly, especially
on land continually tilled. He would advise
carting fresh loam from a pasture for the hotbeds
and greenhouse, in order to avoid disease and
mildew, especially for growing small plants.
History of the Dahlia.
[Extract of paper read by Shirley Hibbard, Editor
Gardeners' Magazine, before the Daldia Conference
held in Crystal Palace, London, in September.]
There appears to be no earlier description
of the Dahlia than that by Francisco Her-
nandez, physician to Philip II of Spain, in
his four books on the plants and animals of
New Spain, published in Spanish iu the
j-ear 1613. In this work our flower appears
under its Mexican name of Acortli, and the
notice is particularly interesting, for two
species are figured, D. iKiriahills and D.
i-njciita, and both have single flowers.
In a work founded on that of Hernandez, and
published in Rome by Vitalis Mascardi in 18.51,
there occurs a figure of a double flower, but the
drawing is so bad that it may be single. Now we
lose the Dahlia for one hundred and thirty years,
when it turns up again in 1787. Xichrlas Joseph
Thierry de Menonville, who was sent to America
to secure the cochineal insect, published in 1787
a treatise on the culture of the Nopal and the
" education " of the cochineal, and therein de-
scribed the Dahlias he had seen in a Garden near
Gua.xaca, which, he says, had large Aster-like
flowers, stems as tall as a man, and leaves like
those of the Elder tree. After a lapse of two
years, we hear of it again as actually intro<luccd
to England b.v a lady whose name should this
day be remembered with gratitude as a generous
contributor to our great garden of fl^irists'
fiowers.
In the .vear 1789, seeds of the Dahlia were for-
warded to the Royal Gardens at Madrid. The
Marquis of Bute was at this time ambassador
from England at the Court of Spain; and the
marchioness, who cherished a true sympathy
with floriculture, obtained some of these seeds,
which she cultivated in pots in a greenhouse, but
failed to keep them beyond two or three years.
The Marchioness of Bute was in correspondence
with the professors at the different botanic gar-
dens in Europe, and thus had opportunities for
ac<iuiring, and perhaps of diffusing, information
on such matters, and her loss of the plants ma.v
therefore be accepted as in some part testifying
to the prevalence of misconceptions as to the re-
quirements and characteristics of the Dahlia.
In 1802 an English nurseryman, John Fraser, of
Sloane Square, a collector of American plants,
obtained from Paris some seeds of Dahlia coc-
cinca, which flowered in a greenhouse in VOS, at
his nursery, and supplied a subject for the plate
in the ** Botanical Magazine," t, 762, which se-
cured to the plant a projjer place in the English
garden. Thus it happensthat in Alton's "Hortus
Kewensis " the Dahlia obtained a place, two
species and three varieties being entered in the
second edition, published 1813. The Abbe Cav-
anilles named the plant in honor of M. Andre
Dahl, a Swedish botanist, and Cavanilles figured
1889.
POPULAR GARDENING.
63
it in his " Icoiies et Descriptioiies Plantarum,"
tlic inililirnOon of which was commenced at
Miuiriii in 1791.
For ten years the .\blie Cavanilles manajrod to
keep his nahlius. and one of them inoduoed semi-
double tlowers in Oetober. 17W; and in the Jan-
luirj" tullowinfr was tijjiu'ed in the Icones as D.
liiuimtii, whieh was the earl.v name of our D.
variabilis^ and thus we fix the date of the tirst
doubling of the Dahlia in Europe as oecurrinjc in
the first year of its Uowering at Madrid. The
variety named Hnsca was very soon afterwards
estalilished at Dresden, for in the year 1>-C0 it was
sent from Dresden to Berlin with the D. pi»Mafa
and D. coociiica already cited, the entire collec-
tion of Dahlias of that date consisting of these
three only. In lf*i Cavanilles sent them to the
.lardin des Plantes at Paris, and to M. Decandolle
at Montpelicr, and thus the flower was fairly
started on the way to liecome known throughout
Europe.
In the year 1799, Humboldt found the Dahlia in
a prairie between Areo and Pat zciiaro at a height
of five thousand feet above the level of the sea,
a fact which at once explained the failures of
Lady Hute and others to grow it as a plant need-
ing much heat and a constantly close atmosphere
under glass. Kew had obtained the plant, and
had lost it as a consequence of stewing or roast-
ing it, as moist or dry crockery might happen to
be in favor, and at Paris the same thing had oc-
curred.
The year 1804 forms the second epoch in the
history of the Dahlia. Seeds were again sent
from Madrid, and M. Buonaiuti i-aised all three
varieties, and they flowered satisfactorily and
were figured in the botanical periodicals of that
day. The great aim now was the production of
double flowers. In 1806 the gardeners at Mal-
maison and St. Cloud were striving after double
flowers, but appear not to have got beyond the
three varieties they began with, namely, cocciiica,
puri>iijra and crocra. But in 1813 M. Dankelaar,
of the botanic gaiHlen at Louvain, Belgium, ob-
tained some semi-double flowers; and again he
operated and secured flowers perfectly double,
and the honor appears beyond all doubt to be
due to him of launching the Dahlia on the tide of
time as a fine florist's flower,
t This brings us to the year 18U, which we may
term the third epoch in the history of the flower.
It had become established at Erfurt and Leipzig
simultaneously with its establishment at Louvain
in lsl;i, and Haage had raised a flower that was
more than single if not quite double. It was ad-
mired, however, chiefly for its violet color which
DAHLIA SUPE
A
DAHLIA COCCINEA.
was at that time new to the Dahlia. In 1811 the
continent was throivn open by the approach of 1
the Allies to Paris, and the British amateurs
found Dahlias in plenty in French gardens; many
of which soon found their way to this country
and were taken charge of with enthusiasm by
the hopeful florists.
About the year 1815 double flowers were be-
ginning to appear. The figure of Dahlia super-
/fim.the "crimson fei'tile-rayed Dahlia "appears
in the Botaniial Register for 1815. This repre-
sents our " sliow " Dahlia, the D. rariahiUs in its
best form as a single flower not far removed from
its wild Mexican) form certainly, but in a grand
condition as regards its rich crimson color, its
great spread oi narrowish elliptic rays, and tlie
small but brilliant golden centre. Such a flower
would now be
prized, and
would make a
new class of
singles. If his-
tory is once
more capal>Ic
of i*eix?ating
itself, surely
this original
Dahlia that we
have improved
out of exist-
ence will be re-
stored to us.
From this
time the How
er acquires ex-
tensive popu-
larity, and as
autumn ap-
proaches the
whole country
appears to
glow with
Dahlias, for
tens of thou-
sands are exhibited, and the talk of all the
world is about them. The excitement that has
prevailed in recent years in connection with ex-
hibitions of the Chrysanthemum is as nothing
when compared with the frenzy of forty years
during which the Dahlia was the greatest of all
the exhibition flowers. Frrim 1820 to 1860 wa5 the
term of its highest popularitj'.
The type of flower in fashion thiry years ago is
admirably shown in the treatise on " The Dahlia,"
by Robert Hogg, published by Groombridge, 18.53,
for herein we find the true precursors of the
splendid show flowers that now rank highest in
the esteem of cultivators; the petals are no longer
pointed, but rounded and smooth, and so even
with the periphery of the flower, as to secure
for it from every point of view an unbroken
outline, while the crown is higher and more re-
fined, and in respect of size the flower comes very
near to the present standard.
Species in Cultivation. Taking the species re-
ported in the order of their appearing,
we have DaliUa cvccine<i, otherwise
D.frustranea, the barren-rayed Dahlia,
introduced to Madrid, and figured b.v
Cavanilles in his Icones. The more
famous D. variahilis or D. superllua,
the fertile-rayed Dahlia, was probabl.v
also one of the three secured for the
first Madrid set. Figures of it abound.
In 18:17 was introduced from Mexico
D. Uarkcria:, a i>leasingform, probably
not specifically distinct from the tore-
going. In 1840 D. tllabrata was ob-
tained from Mexico. It is smooth and
distinctly lobed in the leaf, and has a
neat and pleasing habit, being smaller
every way than D. variabilis, of which
it is a variety. The noble D. inipcfialis
is certainly distinct, and with all its
imperial qualities, it does not now
concern us more than to record that
it first flowered in the Zurich garden
in 1803.
The Dahlia shows at the Crystal
Palace in a long run of years were de-
lightful, but they came to an end in
the year 1869, simply because, as the
managers reported, they had ceased
to pay. Thereupon was formed the
"Metropolitan Society for the Encour-
agement of Florists' Flowers," but the
autumn show in 1875 in the -Alexandra
Palace was the last act and deed of
this society. For sutficient cause the
thing died quietlj'.
But the Dahlia did not die, nor were the ten
years of its eclipse a loss t(j its history. There
was seen upon the horizon of the world of flowers
the original Dahlia of 178'.i; the simple Mexican
flower known as the single Dahlia suddenly ac-
quired popularity, as though its beauties were
perceived for the firet time.
Concurrently with the revival of the single
flowers as subjects of special attention, there
came into the floral rtrmument a quite new star
know as the Cactus Dahlia, and this has given
birth to a numerous proj^eny. It was on the 3d
of September, 1880, that Mr. H. Connell, of Swan-
Icy, presented at the fruit show in Alexandria
Palace, the firet flowers of Dah!ia Jaurfjzi seen
in this country. This distinct and beautiful var-
iety is an independent and original introduction
RFLUA, DOUBLE AND SINGLE.
from Mexico, in the year 1872, by Mr. .1. T. Van-
derberg, of Juxphaor, near Utrecht, with whom
it flowered in 1873. W. H. Cullingford. of Ken-
sington, became the introducer of the noble
flower to England.
Pickings from Michigan Pomological
Society Meetings.
The Orchard in Winter. The question how
to prepare orchards for ^vinter was discussed
at a recent meeting of the Michigan Pomo-
logical Society.
It was pretty generally conceded that orchards
especially Peach, should not be cultivated later
than the flrst or middle of August; that a mulch,
or covering of some kind like Rye, is desirable ;
provision should be made in working the land
for all surplus water to run off and as trees will
not stand wet feet, the land must be well drained;
that stiff clay lands are much more difficult to
keep in proper condition than the sandy ones;
and mice will not be harbored if the orchard is
kept free from sod or gi'ass. Mi*. Chatfield ad-
vocated late fall plowing, as it left the ground
in a loose and mellow condition, but it must be
so late as not to start the trees to growing. C. J.
Monroe thought that if we could depend on a
catch of Clover he would prefer that as a winter
covering, but as Clover was not as sure as Kye
he preferred the Rye. A. S. Packard would put
about a bushel of chip manure around each
tree, sow Rye and plow under when in blossom.
His land was deep sand and mostly drained itself,
as it was ready for the plow half an hour after a
heavy rain. A. I'. Merritt wanted a good growth,
not too rank; thought a coating of wood ashes
broadcast was very beneficial; but if put too
near the tree in quantities, might injure it. Also
thought there should be a coierlng on the
ground of some kind. Those who had only
sandy ground had no conception of the troubles
of those who have clay soil.
Succession of Forest Growth.
[Extravt of paper read by Robert Douglas before the
American Nurserymen's Association.]
The prevailing and almost universal be-
lief that when native forests are destroyed
they will be replaced by other kinds, for the
simple reason that the soil has been impover-
ished of the constituents required for the
growth of that particular tree or trees, is, 1
believe, one of the fallacies handed down
from past ages, taken for granted, and never
questioned. Nowhere does the English Oak
grow better than where it grew when WU-
liam the Conqueror found it at the time he
invaded Britain. Where do you find While
Pines growing better than in parts of New
England, where this tree has grown from
time immemorial? Where can you find
64
POPULAR GARDENING.
December.
young Redwoods growing more thriftily
than among their giant ancestors, nearly or
quite as old as the Christian era?
When a Pine forest is burned over, both trees
and seeds are destroyed, and as the burned trees
cannot sprout from the stump like (1aks and
many other trees, the land is left in a condition
well suited for the germination of tree seeds,
but there are no seeds to germinate. It is an
open field for pioneers to enter, and the seeds
which arrive there first have the right of posses-
sion. The Aspen Poplar (Populus tremuloides)
has the advantage over all other trees. It is a
native of all our northern forests, from the At-
lantic to the Pacific; even fires cannot eradicate
it, as it grows in moist as well as in dry places,
and sprouts from any part of the root. It is a
short-lived tree, consequently it seeds when
quite young and seeds abundantly, the seeds are
light, almost infinitesimal, and are carried on
wings of down. Its seeds ripen in spring, and
are carried to great distances at the very time
when the ground is in the best condition for
them. Kven on the dry mountain sides in Colo-
rado, the snows are just melting and the ground
is moist where they fall. To grow this tree from
seed would require the greatest skill of the nur-
seryman, but the burnt land is its paradise.
Next comes the Canoe Birch, and further north
the Yellow Birch, and such other trees as have
provision for scattering their seeds.
Careful examination around margins of the for-
ests shows the trees of surrounding kinds work-
ing in again. Thus by the time the short-lived
Aspen have made a covering on the burned land,
the surrounding kinds will be found re-establish-
ed in the new forest, the seeds of the Conifers,
carried in by the winds, the berries by the birds,
the nuts and acorns by the squirrels, the mix-
ture varying more or less from the kinds which
grew there before the fire. It is wonderful how
far the seeds of berries are carried by birds.
The waxwings and cedar birds carry seeds of our
Tartarean Honeysuckles, Purple Barberries and
many other kinds, four miles distant, where we
see them spring up, from the lake shore, where
these birds fly in flocks to feed on the Juniper
berries. It seems to be the same everywhere.
In the Michigan peninsula, northern Wiscon-
sin and Minnesota, Piuus Banksiana, a compara-
tively worthless tree, is replacing the valuable
Red Pine (P. resinosa), and in the Sierras, P.
Murrayana and P. tuberculata are replacing the
more valuable species by the same process. In
this case, also, the worthless trees are the short-
est lived, so we see that nature is doing all that
she can to remedy the evil. Man only is
reckless, and esiiecially the American man. The
Mexican will cut large limbs off his trees for fuel,
but will spare the tree. Even the poor Indian,
when at the starvation point, stripping the bark
from the Yellow Pine (P. ponderosai, tor the
mucilaginous matter being formed into sap-
wood, will never take a strip wider than one-
third the circumference of the tree, so that its
growth may not be injured.
We often read that Oaks are springing up in
destroyed forests where Oaks had never grown
Ijefore. The writers ai-e no doubt sincere, but
they are careless. The only Pine forests where
Oaks are not intermixed are either in land so
sandy that Oak cannot be made to grow on them
at all, or so far north that they are beyond their
northern limit. Wherever the Oak is established
there it will remain and keep on advancing.
The Oak produces comparatively few seeds.
Where it produces a hundred, the Ash and Maple
will yield a thousand, the Elm ten thousand, and
many other trees a hundred thousand. The
acorn has no provisson for protection and trans-
portation like many tree-seeds. It is the only
seed I can think of which is left by nature to
take care of itself. It matures without protec-
tion, falls heavily and helplessy to the ground, to
be eaten and trodden on by animals, yet the few
which escape and those which are trodden under
are well able to compete in the race for life.
While the Elm and Maple seeds are drying up on
the surface, the Hickory and Walnuts waiting to
be cracked, the acorn is at work with its coatotf.
It drives its tap-root into the earth, in spite of
grass, and bush, and litter, and will manage to
make a short stem and a few leaves the first sea-
son. When age or accident removes the tree
which has overshadowed it, then it will assert it-
self. Fires may run over the land, destroying
almost everything else, the Oak will be killed to
the ground, but it will throw up a new shoot
next spring, and when the opportunity arrives,
it will make a vigorous growth. There is no
mystery about succession of forest growths,
nothing in nature is so plain and simple. Reeds
with a hard shell, or with a pulpy or resinous
covering, which retarts their germination, are
often saved from becoming extinct by these
means. The Red Cedar reaches from Florida to
and beyond Cape Cod, has crept across the conti-
nent, and is found here and there in a north-
westerly direction between the Platte and the
Pacific coast. It is owing to the resinous coat-
ing which protects the seeds that this tree is
found to-day scattered over that vast region.
Summer Blooming Flowers for
Florists.
lExtrcKt of paiyer by A. E. Whittle, read before the
American Society of Floinsts.^
As a rule there is a dearth of useful flow-
ers in early summer. It is too soon to look
for flowers outside from spring-sown seeds,
and spring-planted plants, and too late to
gather very much from the greenhouses.
Roses at this period often command as high
DAHLIA GUABRATA. See Page 63.
prices as during some of the winter months,
as florists now commence to prepare for the
replanting of their Rose-beds and the cro])of
these flowers is diminished thereby and the
supply decreases through the summer
months. Carnations also at this season are
not so plentiful as earlier in the year. It is
therefore necessary to fill ui> the gap in the
best way possible by preparing ahead for a
supply of useful flowers.
Summer flowers, equally with those of winter,
to be used in florists' work, must have long stems
and good keeping qualities. The following is a
carefully prepared list of the flowers which can
be recommended for florists' purposes:
May Bloomers. Oreenhmise: Gloxinias, Lapa-
gerias, Stephanotis, Roses, Carnations, Helio-
trope. Gloxinias to be had in flower for this
month should be potted early, not later than
March, and kept warm. Stephanotis may be had
jn flower in April if placed in a temperature of
not less than tiO degrees through the winter.
Lapagerias will continue blooming until fall, the
white one being very desirable. Stephanotis will
last through June and July.
Frames: Pansies, Myosotis, A nemones. Mignon-
ette, Candytuft, Calendulas, Stocks, Pansies
may be had in bloom in April by sowing the seed
early in the preceding fall, not later than the end
of August. There can be no flower more useful
to the florist at this time of the year than Mig-
nonette and Candytuft. These may be had either
by sowing seed in the fall, prtividing the protec-
tion of a cold frame through the winter, or by
sowing in moderate hot-bed in early spring.
Seed of the Intermediate Stock should be sown
in early fall. Ten-week Stock in hot-bed or green-
house in March.
itlinihs: Magnolias— stellata, conspicua, Soul-
angeana; Lilacs, Viburnum opulus, Peutzia gra-
cilis, Spirea Van Houttei— cantoniensis ; Tree
Pa'onies.
Herhac^oits Plants: Trillium grandiflorum, ear-
ly Pu-'onles, Lily-of-the-Valley, Hesperis matron-
aUs, Iberis semper\nrens, Diclytra spectabilis.
Attention is directed to the perennial Candytuft.
It is excellent for all purposes as cut flowers.
June Bloomera. Oreeiihouse: Allamanda Schot-
tii, Lapageria, Stephanotis. Shrubs: Chionanthus
Virginica, Philadelphus grandiflorus, Deutzia
crenata fl. pi., Roses. Hardy and herbaccmis per-
ennials: Pseonies, German Irises, Coreopsis lan-
ceolata. Double Pyrethrums, Lilium tenuifolium
— Hansoni, candidum and longiflorum; ,Spirea
palmata, Cypripedium spectabile, Hemerocallis
flava. Delphiniums. Coreopsis lanceolata is very
showy and ijuite desirable. Seed should be sown
in July and plants wfll bloom in the following
spring. Lilium candidum and longiflorum may
be had in flower both through May and June by
retarding bulbs potted in late fall.
A n nuals: Coreopsis coronota. Mignonette, Can-
dytuft, Alyssum, Sweet Peas, Helianthuscucum-
erifoUus, Asters, Stocks, Dianthus in variety.
Double Feverfew, Gaillardia picta, Lorenziana
and hybrids, Scabiosa. Among the most satisfac-
tory annuals for summer work must be named
the Gaillardiaa. They are extremely showy and
generally sell readily. To have them in flower in
.Tune, seed should be sown in February. Mr.-
Denys Zirngiebel, of Needham, Mass., in answer
to a question, kindly gives some information con-
cerning the early blooming of Asters. The seed
is sown in December, plants when up are potted
into two-inch and then three-inch pots, and then
l>lanted outside in .\pril, where if they are prop-
ei'ly hardened, they will endure some degrees of
frost. By this method Mr. Zirngiebel places As-
ters in the market by the middle of June. Of the
various forms of Asters, not one is superior for
florist's purposes to the Victoria strain. The
flowers are very handsome, of fine form, and
produced in great abundance. A variety called
Burpee's Dwarf Queen, seen growing at Glen
Cove, L. I. can also be highly recommended.
There is no reason why Asters may not be had in
flower from June until October. All that is need-
ed is successive sowings of seed from December
until the first or second week in June. Of course,
the two later sowings may be drilled outside. A
very fine bed of Asters is now cotning into bloom
(August 10) from seed drilled outside the first
week in May. Another sowing in June will ena-
ble flowers to be cut until frost. It is perhaps
superfluous to mention to practical men that
strict attention must be given to the proper thin-
ning out of seedlings that grow from outside
drilled seed. The writer has no experience in ex-
perimenting with Asters as an inside crop.
Asters as cut flowei-s are essential to every
florist, and the longer the blooming season can
be prolonged the better for florists in general.
Candj-tuft is another annual that can be had at
any time in spring, summer and fall. All that is
necessary is successive sowings. The dates of
these sowings should be decided by each individ-
ual for himself. Localities differ, and what may
be the right time for one may very likely be the
wrong time for another. The aim is to direct at-
tention to the possibilities of a continuous supply
of the flowers of desirable annuals. Mr. Zirngie-
bel states that when Candytuft is transplanted,
the plants flower sooner than when the seed is
drilled and the seedlings, after thinning out, al-
lowed to remain.
July Bloomers. Hollyhocks, Gladioluses, Hya-
cinthus candicans, Montbretia crocosmspflora,
Milla bitioi-a. Gladiolus, as is well known, may
be had in flower much earlier in the season. The
Montbretia and the Milla are both desirable. Old
clumps of Hollyhocks flower earlier than plants
from fall sown seed. A succession of these flo.w-
ers may be had by having some old clumps, and
planting every year plants raised from seed sown
in October.
Perennials: Lilium candidum, longiflorum, au-
ratum. supcrbum; Iris K;emi)feri, Phlox decus-
sata— varieties, Spirea Ulmaria, fl. pi., Asclepias
tuberosa, Helianthus multiflorus, fl. pi.. Euphor-
bia corollata. Yucca fllamentosa, Lathyrus lati-
folius.
August Bloomers. Slinih$: Hydrangea panicu-
lata grandiflora, Tamari.x Chinensis.
MisctUanefnts : Cannas, Dahlias, Gladioluses,
Montbretias, Feverfew double white, Solanum
jasminioides— the latter in greenhouse. Some
florists have made quite a success in growing the
white dwarf Dahlia— Camellia>flora— as a fall crop
in the greenhouses. It is prolific, and most use-
ful for our work. If managed so as to have the
plants in full flower during the month of Octo-
ber, they become quite valuable, for frosts dur-
ing this month kill all tender outside flowers.
Pfic?ima!«; Liliuras in variety. Phlox panicu-
lata varieties, Euphorbia corollata. Anemone
(889.
POPULAR GARDENING.
65
Japonioa, Funkia srrandifloni. Annuals: Set'Oiul
crop of Astci's. ('iind>"t\ift, etc.
September Bloomers. Miscellaneous: Tuberos-
eii. Feverfew, seeoiid crop ; Diiblias, Carnations,
Cannas. Bouvardias in greenhouse. It t-* always
well to grow a sutKeient number of Carnations,
in order tliat a few may be allowed to bloom
early. These need not be planted inside for win-
ter work, but kept solely for the fall Howers.
Hardy pt-irnniah: Helianthus multillorus, H.
pi.. Anemone Japonica, Pyrethrum uliginosum,
Lilliim speciosnm, Eupatorium ageratoides, Eu-
lalia Jaiioniea. Mr. Falconer states that the Eu-
patorium, though wild, is worthy of cultivation.
October Bloomers. Annuals: Asters. .\^lyssum.
Calendula Meteor, Verbenas, semi-double Gera-
nium, Candytuft. These flowers will bear a few
degrees of frost. Feverfew, double white,
Pansies from seed sown in July. Perennials:
Anemone Japonica, PjTethrum uliginosum,
early Chrysanthemums, Helianthus Maximi-
liani, Eulalia Japonica.
Charlestown, S. C. Chrysanthemum
Exhibit.
Our Chrysanthemum show held Nov. 4,
1889, proved a success in every way. People
were surprised at the beauty of the flowers,
their great variety ot coloring, and shape.
Heretofore the Chrysanthemum was little
known, and this show has placed it in good
favor with the amateurs.
■■ Mrs. iilpheus Hardy " did not show up well,
and attracted but little attention. "Mrs. C. H.
Wheeler" was admired by all, together with
" Mrs. A. Carnegie," " Mrs. Frank Thompson,"
and " Thos. Cartledge."
Three stands each 60 feet long were filled with
potted plants, about i"0 in number, and four
stands were covered with cut flowers, 1,000 cups
being necessary, l)esides vases, baskets, waiters
and designs.
A new feature was a stand covered with our
Southern Moss with Ivy, Smilax and other rines
running over it, and the cut blooms nestled in
this bed. The sides and back of the stand were
hid from view with Ferns. This stand attracted
much attention and promises to become popular
for the display of cut blooms, replacing the old-
time boxes.
A beautiful single (seedling) was also exhibited
and pronounced by Mr. Berckmans as something
new. It resembles in color what is known amongst
the ladies as shrimp-pink and the flowers are very
lasting and early. This has been named Eifter
Jlr. Berckmans and no Idoubt it will be heard
from before long.
The attendance was good and all exhibitors
were pleased with the decisions ot Mr Berckmans
who was the sole judge.
Mr. Berkmans displayed some very fine speci-
mens of Japanese Persimmons grown at his
nursery near Augusta, Ga. Some of the speci-
mens weighed U ounces.
During the progress of the fair the orphans in
the various institutions in the city visited the
show room, on the in^ntation of the managers
There is a good opening here for a first-class
florist in this city. He must be a man capable
and honest in his dealings. No other need attempt
to get along in this place, as the amateurs are
very quick to detect and punish any deceit.
Arrangements are already on foot for next
years show. " Palmetto "
CONDENSED GLEANINGS.
Soses in Open Grotind. Of the newer varie-
ties the best, so far in this locality, has l)een Mi-s.
John Laing. Though not of a very hardy con-
stitution, its pale-pink color, fine form and de-
lightful fragrance make it a very desirable vari-
ty , and it is a splendid autumn bloomer. Earl of
Dufferin is a grand Rose of a deep bright crim-
son, very fragrant and of a good constitution.
Ladj' Helen Stewart is another first-class Rose,
with a good, vigorous constitution. tJlrich
Brunner, though not particularly new, nor yet
generalh' planted, is pleasing in shape and color,
t^ueen of Queens has again proved one of the
best bedding Roses, of a pale-shaded pink color
and very attractive in every way. To my mind,
however, the best Rose of this class introduced
to this country this year is Gloire de Margottin.
It is the clearest bright red yet introduced, very
fragrant, a strong grower, and a Rose that
pleases everv one who sees it. Last of all is that
grand Rose, Madame Gabriel Luizet. With its
satin-pink color and unsurpassed fragrance it
has few equals, and it should be in every garden
no matter how small. If it were my fate to be
dejtrived of every Rose but one for growing in
the open air. I should choose this one above all
()tlicrs. It is still producing some good flowers,
and will continue to do so all summer at inter-
vals. The monthly or everblooming Roses are
not growing very well in this section, except
where extra good, strong plants were only put
out early.— J. X. May in Garden and Forest.
Hnskrats and Pond Lilies, About fifteen
yeai'S ago I became quite enthusiastic in regard
to introducing Pond Lillies into my grounds.
The removal of muck from a piece of low land
where the water remained nearly up to the sur-
face all summer, and near a creek gave me a
very nice pond two or three feet deep, fifty feet
wide, and nearly two hundred long. I first
planted Xelumbium luteum, which was a great
success, and the third year, hundreds of plants
bloomed, much to my own gratification and my
neighbors' who visited my Lily-pond. Other
varieties and species were introduced, and I
began to feel pretty sure that I had at last struck
one family of plants that needed no coddling,
but could take care of themselves, requiring no
fertilizer, hoeing, weeding, staking, nor dusting
with poisonous compounds for destroying their
insect enemies. But enemies came, and worked
so slyly and silently that they were not even sus-
pected of being around until the glory of my
Lily-pond had disappeared : then it was discov-
ered that muskrats were feasting on the tubers
of the Xelumbium, but did not trouble those of
the common Water Lily (Xymphea odorata'. The
latter remains in great numbers and my pond is
well-stocked with it, but of other species not one
plant remains. Being thankful for smaU favors,
I shall love and cling to the little water nymph
so long as she clings to me.— F. S. Andrews, in
American Agriculturist.
Winter Care of Vegetables. Parsley for win-
ter use is obtained by transplanting .the roots
from the field to a cold frame or greenhouse.
The}' should be protected from freezing if possi-
ble since freezing injuries the ;appearance .and
salable value of the leaves, though the roots will
endure considerable frost without being killed.
A cold frame well banked and carefully covered
with mats and shutters, will generally yield two
or three cuttings in the course of the winter.
The glass can be taken entirely of in April, cov-
ering the l)ed with shutters in severe weather,
and it will yield another cutting in May before
the spring lots come in. As soon as hot weather
begins the old roots will run to seed, and should
be thrown away, except such as wanted for seed.
Salsify or Oyster plant is usually stored in pits,
the roots being heeled in thickly, and then cov-
ered" like Celery. It is hardy but the roots wilt
easily. Horseradish, too, is best kept in a pit not
over two feet deep, covered with earth, and
enough litter to just keep out frost; too much
covering must be avoided with these roots.
They will start into growth and spoil quickly if
not almost frozen. The only safe way is to
watch them, and change the covering with the
weather.— Western Rural.
Home-Made Pruners. Any one can make
pruning shears like those here illustrated, for
his o^ra use. The movable shear, to which the
pitman rod is attached, does most of the cutting.
Both shears are made of thin, hardened steel.
From the bolt-hole in the movable shear a rod
longer or shorter (the pitman), to correspond
with the length of the pole used, runs to the
lever shown at the bottom ot the cut. In prun-
ing trees and vines the handle of this lever is
raised, which forces up the bar and opens the
jaws of the shears. Then, on lowering the lever,
the twig, if it be placed in the shears, is clipped
off. The jaws of the shears must be ground at an
angle somewhat more acute than that commonly
employed for tailor's shears. The highest part
of each bevel must come against the bevel upon
which it acts. The screw shown connects the
shears.— American Agriculturist.
Preserving Cut Flowers. The best way is to
pack the flowers in ice. This is a sure preserva-
tive, especially if a httle salt is sprinkled over
the crystalline surface. Another mode in which
flowers are sent in complete preservation, even to
Europe, is to pack them closely in tin cans, cov-
ering the stems with moist cotton. Over aU a
layer of wet cotton is placed. At the end
of the sea voyage the buds and flowers wiU
be found fresh and fragrant as at the beginning.
To keep flowers bright from day to day— that is
cut flowers— it is ordy necessaiy to sprinkle with
water, place the stems deep in moisture, and, if
necessary, put a light layer of cotton over them.
Flowers can be made to last a long time if care-
fully watched, but they require the delicate nur-
ture of a k)ver of blossoms.— Globe Dcnn^crat.
Healthfalness of Country Homes. There is
much care taken* and none to much, in locating
in a new State or neighborhood, to select a place
promising healthfulness for the family. With-
out good health, the advantages of fertile soil
and cheap lands go for naught. But how many
people in the country look to it to see that the
homes are kept in good sanitary condition ? As
the country grows older the soil becomes saturat-
ed with tilth, so that it no longer disinfects what
is thrown upon it. Many country places are
thus made more unhealthful than cities, where
crowded population obliges greater care of sani-
tary measures. It ought not to be so. The death-
rate in the country ought to be lower than it is
in cities, and will be if due care is given to good
drainage and ventilation.— American Cultivator.
Black Fly on Chrysanthemums. My remedy
has been soft soap dissohed in warm water at
the rate of one ounce of soap to one gallon of
water. With this mixture I have thoroughly
syringed the plants, and have had the satisfac-
tion of finding them quite free from the fly the
next day. But in two or three weeks after they
have appeared again. At one time I used to dust
the plants with Tobacco powder for destroying
either green or black fly, but it made the foliage
so dirty unless very carefully washed off the next
day that I have given up its use in favor of soapy
water, which is quite as effectual, and instead of
disfiguring the leaves in any way it cleanses
them. The plants always look more healthy and
\ngorous a few days after the application than
they did before.— Corr. Gardeners' Magazine.
Picking and Packing Apples. In an orchard
of fifty acres, I have men and women go over
and pick the fruit, and pUe it in heaps. Then 1
go in with barrels right after the pickers and bar-
rel them. The less you can handle fruit the bet-
ter it is for the keeping qualities of the fruit. The
only advantage gained by piUng in heaps and
carting to the barn is this: If an Apple is bruised
or disfigured, a few days will disclose the bruise,
that is all. I have tried both ways, and I say to
you, from my experience, barrel your fruit as
you pick it, and head it up. Some say the Apple
will sweat. So it will; every time the Apple is
colder than the surrounding atmosphere, it will
continue to sweat.— S. Fenner in N.E.Homestead.
Storing Apples. Bo not be in hurry about
running the Apples into the cellar. If the cellar
be a dry one,
with fair facili-
ties for ventila-
tion when need-
ed, this is just
the place for the
Apples at the
proper time. But
they should re-
main in an open
1 . outbuilding, or
even out -of -
I doors if under a
U shed or in some
way protected
from moisture
until freezing
weather is be-
ginning. Apples
will not be in-
jured by a pretty
thorough chill,
as long as it does
not amount to
Home-Made Pruning Shears, feezing. If care-
fully picked and not too tightly barreled, the
keepmg varieties will do well if kept above
ground as long as possible. It will be time
enough several weeks hence to put them inside.
—Stockman and Farmer.
Winter Protection for Grapes. The practice
of lajing down Grape-vines and covering them
for winter, is not universal ; yet, with most va-
rieties, in nearly all of Xew England this treat-
ment pa.vs. Growers find that even when the
buds of uncovered vines all start well, the cover-
ed vines give a better crop, and ripen it earlier.
If vines are planted against the south side of a
tight fence, laying them on the ground will be
all the protection needed in a snowy country, as
a deep drift will form in such a spot. Such a
drift will not waste away for a long time where
there is snow enough for pretty steady sleighing.
—Dr. Hosklns in Garden and Forest.
66
POPULAR GARDENING.
December,
Wind-Tight Ventilator. Tlie accompanied
sketch gives a sectional riew of a wind-tight ven-
tilator designed and used by Mr. Anthony, a
Chicago florist. The opening in the roof is cased
clear around inside with a strip which projects
about an inch above the surface of the roof and
the weather strip on the outside is carried around
three sides of the ventilator sash. The joints on
WIND-TIGHT VENTILATOR.
the outside should be well filled with paints.
This adds but a trifle to the first cost of the venti-
latoi'S and excludes much cold air that would
otherwise drive in when a cold wind is blowing,
and renders the sash less liable to be lifted by
the wind.- American Florist.
Birds of Money Value. The more there is
known of the life habits of our common birds,
the more fully will the public realize the great
benefit which they confer upon the husband-
men. A bird which feeds mostly upon insects or
mice is worth as much to the farmer or gardener
as a good sheep, at the lowest estimate, and the
farmer or gardener who fully realizes the actual
value of such birds would be as willing to have
the sportsman come into his enclosure and shoot
his sheep as to come in and destroy his birds.—
Dr. Reynolds in Mass. Ploughman.
Benewing the Strawberry Patch. It pays best
to fruit a Strawberry plantation only once.
Plant a plat every year. The fruit is finer, there
is less liability to injury from insects, and it is
little more work to make a new plantation than
to take care of an old one. For field culture
plant in rows three and a half feet apart each
way, cultivate both ways, narrowing the culti-
vator as the hills spread. Most profit is found in
late berries, holding them back in the spring by
keeping the mulch on as late as possible.— O. F.
Preseiving ChettnutB. To keep Chestnuts for
seed or eating, mix them with an etiual bulk of
clean sand, and bury in a dry spot below frost-
Boxes with holes bored in the bottom, crocks or
flower pots are suitable vessels to put the Chest-
nuts and sand in. Before they are buried, spread
out thin for a week or two until the grubs are
hatched, then assort carefully and bury only the
sound nuts.— Farm Journal.
Keep Potatoes Dark. Potatoes must be kept
in the dark. The whitest, choicest Potatoes will
be injured in a short time in any cellar where
one can see to walk around. They will look
yellowish when cooked and their fine quality is
gone. If you cannot make one room of your
cellar absolutely dark, see that your home supply
is kept in tight boxes or barrels and well covered.
—Ohio Farmer.
Bemedy for Sings. The use of Cabbage and
Lettuce leaves as traps is about the simplest
remedy, and by irregular examination of these
leaves morning and evening, many of these
troublesome enemies of Ferns and other green-
house plants may be . destroyed. —Gard. & Forest.
Babbit Mixture. Babbits won't bark the
young trees if they are smeared with the follow-
ing: Quarter bushel of lime, one-half pound of
copperas, and one-halt pound of glue; add the
glue and copperas dissolved, to the lime, after
slacking, and apply withabrush.— Farm Journal.
Mulching with Tan Bark. One of m.v nelRhbors
uses spent tan bark for mulching his fail-set cuttings
of Currants, urapes, etc-. He thinks there Is nothing
better.- Abner Holllngaworth.
Seeping Choice Fruit. Wrapping each .specimen of
valuable varieties In soft paper unquestionably tends
to preserve them and retain the beautiful tints.— New
York Tribune.
Cheapest and Best. Vegetables and fruits save
meat and bread (and doctors' bills also); and they are
cheaper foods than wheat or pork or beef.— F's Call.
Sweet Apples in Market. There seems to be no de-
mand in the N. Y. market for sweet Apples. It seems
more profitable to feed them to hogs.— Rural N.Yorker.
Plant Nut Trees. There Is a lively demand for Nuts
In this market. The sale of native Nuts seems to In-
crease from year to year.— R. N. Yorker.
Vegetables in Pits. Frost will not penetrate far
Into dry earth, but It will go deep Into that which Is
wet.— Mich. Farmer.
Dse for Surplus Tomatoes. Feed a few Tomatoes
to the cow if you want to see her enjoy a meal.— R.N.Y'
Keeping Onions. Onions must be dried well before
being stored in bulk for wlDterkeepuig.-Farm Journal.
Freezing Apples. A sound Apple will not freeze at
a temperature of 3(1°, or even 33°.— Dr. Hoskins.
Changing Seed. The advantage of a change of seed
should be considered.- Farmers' Call.
Vegetable Products on the Table.
Fried Parsnips. Scrape them and leave them
in cold water for an hour, then boil with a little
Salt and Pepi>er, and fry in drippings. Drain
free of fat and serve hot.— .^m. Cult.
Apple Custard. If you have custard left from
dinner, fill the bottom of the dish with Apple
sauce and ijouring the custard over. A very nice
desert. Serve nice crackers with it. Berries,
sliced Peaches or Pears are nice served thus.
Hut Pudding. One cupful of sugar, one half
of a cupful of butter, two cuptuls of flour, one
half a cupful of cold water, three eggs, one and
one half teaspoonfuls of baldng powder, one half
of a cupful oE whole Walnut meats added the last
thmg. Bake and eat with sauce.
Apple Crumb Pudding. Put a layer of bread
crumbs in the bottom of a buttered pudding dish,
then a layer of sliced tart Apples sprinkled with
sugar, then crumbs and Apples until the dish is
almost full. The crumbs should be last. Cover
and cook an hour. Eat with the sauce or sweet-
ened cream.
Spiced Barberries. Pick over, and to every
quart add a cupful of vinegar, one cupful of
sugar, one-halt teaspoonful of Cloves and one
teaspoonf ul of Cinnamon: put the Barberries into
the boiling vinegar, sugar and spices, and allow
ten minutes for every quart in cooking. Serve
with roast meats.
Potato Soup. Pare and slice thin six medium
sized Potatoes; stew in one quart of cold water
with bits of dried beef. Stir smoothly one table-
spoonful of flour with milk in a coffee cup; when
perfectly smooth fill the cup with milk and stir
into the soup as soon as Potatoes are done. Salt
and pepper to taste.
Celery Stalks. Cut into siuall bits, and use for
flavoring soups, broths, etc. Put the leaves into
a pan or dish and place in the oven. When dry,
crumble them and place away in a wide-mouthed
bottle and keep closely covered. This will be
found good for flavoring soups when the Celery
is out of the market.
Quince Marmalade. Wash the ripe Quinces,
slice and boil till soft enough to mash and strain
through a colander. Allow one pound of sugar
to one pound of the softened Quince. Boil over
a slow fire, stirring often ami watching carefully
that it does not burn, until it becomes a thick
mass. When partly cooled pack in jelly glasses-
Squash Pie. To each cuj) of Squash stewed
and sifted, allow a coffee cup of milk, one egg,
nearly halt a cup of sugar, and halt a teaspoon-
ful each of salt. Nutmeg and Cinnamon. Mix
thoroughly the Squash, sugar, salt and spices,
add the beaten egg, then the milk. Bake nearly
or quite an hour, according to size of the pie.—
Mich. Farmer.
The Skins of Beans. An able chemist and
sanitarian sa> s of Beans that they are usually
difficult to digest, but are so important a food
that they can hardly be dispensed with. The
outer coat or skin is the mischief-maker, and
should be removed, for the same reason that we
peel a Potato. To do this, previous to baking,
after soaking the Beans as usual over night or
longer, rub them between the hands. A less
troublesome plan is to boil the Beans instead of
baking them, and rub them through a colander.
Beans should be cooked at least eight hours, and
preferably longer.— Prairie Farmer.
Old-Fashioned Baked Beans. One quart of
dried Beans, Cranberry preferred, soaked over
night. In the morning pick them over carefully,
and put them over to boil. When the skins crack
a little, which will be in about an hour, they are
ready for baking. Put them in a deep pan or a
Bean pot, and cover with the water in which they
were boiled, adding a tablespoonful of salt, a ta-
blespoonful of molasses, and halt a pound of salt
pork, the rind of which has been deeply scored.
Press it into the Beans, and bake them very slow-
ly not less than five hours. It may be necessary
to add a little more water. They must bo moist
but iifit slopjiy and each Bean should be distinct.
For those who object to pork, two^tablespoonfuls
of sweet beef-driv>inng can be used, or the same
amount of butter. Double the amount of salt if
no pork is used.— Good Housekeeping.
Potato Cheese. A quantity of white Potatoes
of good quality are boiled in a caldron, and when
cool reduced to a pulp, either by means of a
grater or mortar. To five pounds of this pulp,
which ought to be equal as possible, is added one
pound of sour milk and the necessary quantity
of salt. The whole is kneaded together and the
mixture covered up and allowed to remain for
three or four days, according to the season. At
the end of this time it is kneeded anew, and the
cheeses are placed in little baskets, when the
superfluous moisture escapes. They are then al-
lowed to dry in the shade, and placed in layers in
large vessels, where they must remain for fifteen
days. The older these cheeses are the more their
quality improves. Three kinds are made. The
first and most common is made as detailed above;
the second with four parts of Potatoes and two
of curdled milk; the third with two parts of Pota-
toes and four parts milk.
HOUSE PLANTS.
Abntilons. Give occasional doses of liquid manure
to plants in bloom. .Shift young plants as required.
Pinch back when needed to improve the form of plants.
Propagate as desired.
Ageratums. Turn the plants from time to time.
Nip back leading shoots. Maniu-e water may be given
occasionally to advantage.
Air should be given to the plants whenever the
weather will permit. Never allow the temperature to
be higher at night than would be suitable for the day.
Aspidistras and Azaleas need a copious supply of
water at the roots. Sponge the leaves off occasionally.
Begonias of the flowering kinds do best In a suimy
situation with 55*^ to (JO' F. When out of bloom they
will stand partial shade.
Bulbs. Those for earliest flowering should now be
well rooted and may be brought Into light and given
water.
Callas. From now on give an abundance of water,
and sponge off the leaves occasionally. Repot yoimg
plants promptly a-s required.
Coboea scandens may be stImiUated by occasional
applications of manure water. Look out for green fly.
Cyclamens need plenty of water while In bud and
bloom. Keep close to the glass and sponge off the
leaves from time time.
Evergreens. A weekly showering given on the
plants while standing In a bath tub, greatly improve.s
their health.
Fernery. Air a little dally. Remove decayed leaves
or flowers. Apply water moderately.
General Directions. Upon anticipation of a very
cold night plants may be removed to the middle of the
room, or an arrangement may be made for hanging
over the plants. A screen of light cloth or paper to be
put over the plants while the room Is being swept will
aid greatly in keeping them free from dust. Keep the
earth mellow In pots and the pots clean. Should the
soli become hard, remove the top and replace with
fresh earth. Never subject plants of any kind to strong
draughts of air.
Geraniums. Plants to be wintered over should be
kept cool and dry to prevent damp. Plants in bloom
need plenty of water at the roots.
Ivy and other suspended plants, or those too heavy
to move should have their leaves washed simply with
a soft cloth and warm water.
Insects. It is seldom convenient to smoke house
plants, and tobacco water may be used for Insects in-
stead, standing the pots In a bath tub or spacious sink.
Pour boiling water upon cheap Tobacco, dilute It to
the color of weak tea. Lay the pots upon their sides In
order that the under surface of the leaves may be
reached. Frequent drenching with water only wlU
keep red spiders In subjection.
Lantanas. Give a light place In about 55^ F. Look
out for red spider.
Mahernias In bloom to be given a sunny situation
from now on.
Peristrophe. Oive occasional rations of manure?
water to pots filled with roots. Keep in rather small
pots and in a sunny situation if variegation Isdesired.
Pilea muscosa should be watered carefully to avoid
Injury from damp. Light, rich soil and a temperature
of 50° F. Is best.
POPULAR GARDENING.
67
Piltosporoms. Keep the leaves iis fresh ami eleau
as possible, and the plants eool and rather dry.
Plants In cellar :>tora*re to be examined fnim time
to time. Guard both against Injury from damp and
ak'aiust drying.
Rivinia EnmiLis to be kept in a suDiiy expostirei
and In a tompeiaiure of 55* to W-^ F. Avoid extremes
of temptrature.
Watering. Aim to water all plants just enough and
no more. As a rule never water except in the fore-
noon. Do not water much in cloudy weather. The
water should be of same temperature as the air In
which the plants are growing.
LAWN AND FLOWER GARDEN.
Borders. As soon as the ground is frozen, a dressing
of straw or hay should be applied to beds of fall-planted
hardy bulbs, Pansies and other fall-grown seedlings.
Chrysanthemums after flowering to be cut dowti
and moved to the cellar or other convenient place.
Clematis- Some good manure may be spread over
the loots- Then lay down the plants and protect with
Evergreen boughs, etc.
Evergreens and shrubs should be examined after
every snow fall, and the snow promptly shaken out.
Herbaceous plants should be protected by straw or
salt hay held iu phiL-e with Evergreen boughs, etc.
Lawn- To be top-dressed with well rotted manure
If the soil has become impoverished.
Leaves may be gathered and secured for future use
at any time before snow,
Roses. The hardy Hybrid Perpetuals may be given
a dressing of half-decayed manure; the more tender
kinds should be protected by bending over and cover-
ing with soil.
Rhododendrons may be given a dressing of manure.
Protecting and ^hading by Evergreen boughs Is always
advbsable- Set the butt ends in the ground around the
plant, and secure the tops by tying with stout twine.
Stakes, trellises, plant supports of all kinds to be
sheltered, repaired and repainted.
Trenching deeply will benefit .^11 bonlers, flowtr
beds, etc.. that are not now planted.
PLANT CULTURE UNDER GLASS.
Acacias should be watered freely, as neglect in this
respect will cause loss of foliage and flowers. Shift
young plants as required. Sow seed If increase of
stock is desired,
Acalyphas. Put In temperature of 55 to 60 degrees
with full exposure to sun, and apply manure water
occasionally. Look out for red spider.
Adiantams like a warm, moist situation and a tem-
perature of 55 to 60 degrees. Shift young plants as
soon as pots become filled with roots, and keep in con-
stant growth.
Allamandas. When growth ceases, should be given
water very sparingly.
Anemone Japonica. When done flowering remove
to a cool cellar or underneath the shelf. Give water
but sparingly from now on.
Azaleas When forced plants are In full bloom give
a cool dry atmosphere. Remainder of stock to be kept
in a cool airy part of the house. Push young plants
forward by giving them a warm position.
Balbs. Hyacinths, Tulips, Crocuses, etc., for early
bloom must be brought into a sunny place with about
55 degrees F. Air freely whenever circumstances allow.
Carnations. Syringe occasionally, give manure
water at times, and air frequently.
Camellias- Guard against extremes in watering
and temperature to avoid the dropping of buds. Syringe
plants not in bloom twice a week.
Chrysantheinums. Cut down when done flowering
and place in a drj- cellar, giving water very sparingly.
See to the labels.
Crotons should have the leaves carefully sponged oflE.
Daphne. Guard against extremes in watering and
temperature, and otherwise treat like Camellias.
Deutzia gracilis, for early bloom a few plants may
now be brought to the light.
Gloxinias for early blooming may be started about
the end of the month.
Heliotrope. For plenty of flowers give a warm,
moist atmosphere and manure water.
Insects. Fumigate regularly twice a week, or keep
the Tobacco juice gutters on the pipes well filled all
the time. ThL« will keep the green fly in check.
Syringe freely to keep down red spider. Scale and
mealy bug will yield to washing. Hunt for the slugs
by lantern light, or trap them with orange peel, etc.
Means Against Sadden Cold. Sprinkling water
upon the pipes is one of the most ready means of rais-
ing the temperature in an emergency.
Mignonette. A sunny situation and liquid manure
are good for plants in bloom.
Palms -need thorough watering, and should not be
allowed to become very dry.
Pelargoniums. Keep rather dry and in a night tem-
perature of about 45 degreess. Pinch leading shoots
back after growth commences.
Primulas. Water carefully during duU, damp
weather. Air freely.
Propagation- Cuttings of such plants as st*wk ap-
pears short of should be ma<le at first opportunity.
Requisites. During the leisure of winter make hot-
bed sash, mats, ru^^lc work, trellises, etc.
Roses. Blooming plants may be stimuated by dally
syrlnglngs. an<l giving a night temperature of 55 to 60
degrees.
Stocks. Guard against damp and green fly. Remove
all decaying foliage. Scatter Tobacco stems among the
plants, renewing them frequently.
Thunbergias. Plants In bloom should have a tem-
perauu-e of 55 <legrees. Syringe freely for red spider.
Tuberoses. Bulbs should be stored In a warm place.
These and other bulbs, seeds, tubers, etc., should be
kept where secure from frost, mice, etc.
Verbenas like moderately free watering. Keep In a
cool airy place. Make cuttmgs now.
Violets. Remove all decaying leaves, and air freely.
Also stir the soil occasionally.
FRUIT, GARDEN AND ORCHARD.
Cuttings of Gooseberries, Grapes. Currants If yet un
protected to have a covering of Evergreen boughs or
coarse litter.
Fruit in storage needs care and frequent inspection.
In cold storage try to keep the temperature between
35 and 40 degrees. Remove specimens showing signs of
decay from cellar or fruit house as soon as the blemish
is discovered. Market fruit whenever in best condi-
tion, or when the demand is good.
Fences. See that they are all right. When horses
and other live stock arc allowed to run at large a strand
of wire at the top of the fence will prevent the horses
from leaping it. If allowed to get among young trees
they will do much damage by browsing at their tops.
Grapes should now be pruned, tender varieties laid
dowTi, with a stone, a piece of board, or a little soil on
top to be held down firmly. All varieties do better
when thus threated.
Mind Culture. Review the season and let its les-
sons be fully impressed upon your mind. Read the
horticultural papers and make your plans for future
operations. Consider well, then execute with energy-
Mice and Rabbits. Young trees should have a
mound of earth heaped against their trunks, both to
steady them against heavj- winds and to protect them
against mice. If this has been omitted, tramping the
snow firmly around the tree will keep otf the mice.
Repeat after each snow fall. Rabbits girdle the trees
often beyond remedy. Boys by secting traps orby the
use of a shot gun can keep the rabbits quite scarce.
Elsewhere we give various meth<>dsof preventing in-
jury from this cause.
Manure can now be drawn with advantage. Scat-
ter boadcast over the ground in orchard and small fruit
patches.
Raspberries and Blackberries. All tender sorts. If
not laid down, to be attended to at once. Cover slightly
with soil.
Root grafting can be done during stormy days.
Label and pack away in soil or sand in the cellar.
Scions may be cut now at any time. Label properly.
Pack in sand in the cellar.
Strawberry plants to be mulched as soon as the
ground is frozen sufBcleutly to hold team and wagon.
VEGETABLE GARDEN.
Cold Frames in which plants are stored for the ear-
liest crops of Cabbages, Cauliflower, etc., need frequent
attention. The plants should be kept In a dormant
state. If too warm, they will start into growth. In
moderate weather ventilate the frames, and In severe
spells cover the sashes with mats. Remove snow
promptly from the sashes, unless the plants are frozen,
when the snow may be left on for a week or longer.
Celery- Graduallj- give additional protection as the
cold increases. Leaves and marsh hay are excellent
for the purpose.
Drainage. If any part of the grounds Is yet deficient
in drainage, this fault can now be remedied. Lay tile
drains wherever needed-
aeneral Directions. Look up, repair and repaint
the sashes and frames for spring use. Repair and store
tools. Clean all seeds gathered during the season, and
store properly labeled in a cool, dry, airy situation.
Make arrangments for new implements, sashes, frames
and other fixings for next spring.
Fertilizers. Manure, muck, chemicals, fertilizers.
etc., should be procured in good season, and in good
supply. Half rations do not pay.
Onions. Protect from severe freezing; keep dry and
in a temperature of not over 4u degrees. Onions planted
out in September, if on an exposed spot should be cov-
ered witu a few inches of leaves or coarse litter.
Rubbish wherever found on the premises to be
gathered and heaped up for a grand •' roast of rubbish "
towards spring.
Roots in Pits. Give additional covering as the sea-
son advances. If you desire to have easy access to the
pit during winter, place a foot or more of dry litter
upon the south end of pit.
Stumps, Trees where in the way to be grubbed or
blown out. ■
Spinach In exposed situations should have a mulch
of straw or salt hay several Inches deep.
FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER
GLASS.
Asparagus. Roots lifted in November can now be
placed in Ixjxes and then placed In any warm situation
for an early supply. Roots for succession should be so
protected that they can be got at at any time when
wanted.
Dandelions. Roots lifted in Xovember and placed
in boxes may now be brought into a sunny situation
for growth.
Figs in pots or tubs for early may now be placed in
he wannest part of the early Grapery.
Grapes. In the early houses maintain an average
temperature of 65* during the night, with five or ten
higher during the day. Tie the new growth as It ad-
vances. Protect the borders by a thick covering of
leaves or coarse litter. Vines in the late houses to be
pruned, laid down, and covered up after the leaves falL
Lettuce. Water sparingly during damp dull weath-
er. Air freely whenever weather is su table. Remove
all decaying leaves- Guard against the green fly by
moderate fumigation two or three times a week.
Parsley- Treat like Dandelion.
Rhubarb. Treat same as Aspar^us.
Strawberries may now be started up at any time.
Begin with a temperature of ■15*', gradually increasing
until it reaches 60". Also increase the water supply
gradually and as the season advances. Plants for late
use must be protected from severe freezing.
THE POULTRY YARD.
The Wintering Problem. It cannot be told too
oft«n that a small flock of poultry well cared for
will do better than a large flock half cared for.
Coal Ashes for Hen Lice. Sift the coal ashes in
the hen house. The coal dust will penetrate every
crack and crevice, and the vermin cannot live
among that.— Rural Canadian.
The Home Market. The best market, when
prices are low and you have a larg-e surplus,
is your own table. Consume all you can of
poultry and egg^, and pay for them by reducing
your expenses In some other direction.
Love Lightens Labor. Nobody should go into
the business of raising poultry if he has not a
fondness for chickens uv knowledge of the care
they require. One must have an interest in them
to succeed, and some experience, before trying
it on a large scale.
Warm Quarters Pay. A good way to make a
warm poultry house is to have double walls, with
a space of four inches between, and both walls to
be lined with paper. This will withstand sudden
changes of weather and keep an even tempera-
ture within.— Farm Journal.
Snow Eating. Fowls will readily eat snow if
the water supply is shortened or ice forms in the
fountains. Snow doesnot allay thirst, but causes
roup or throat ailments. Hence do not cut off
the water supply, under the supposition that the
hens can get it from snow.— Mirror and Farmer.
Care Needed. No live stock is worth the trouble
and cost of its keeping that is not attended to
regularly, systematically and faithfully. Do-
mestic fowls will not take care of themselves to
advantage. Lack of kind treatment is the lead-
ing cause of failure with many who undertake
to raise fowls.
The Langshans. We have never had a more
steady supply of Eggs, and more of them as an
average than since we began to keep Black Lang-
shans, and we have tried Brahmas, Cochins, Ply-
mouth Rocks, Wyandottes. Leghorns, etc. With
good care and common sense treatment the Lang-
shans seem to produce eggs the year round.
The Horning Heal. The first meal should be
given as early as possible. The hens are usually
awake long before the people of the house are
up. and they wUl be impatient for their breakfast.
Tne earlier they receive it the sooner they will
feel like scratching and working, as they often
feel the effects of a cold night.- Mirror and Far.
Feeding for Eggs. If you want eggs keep the
hens healthy, and furnish them the raw mater-
ials. Give a variety of grains, Oats in the bun-
dle. Corn on the cob, of grains scattered among
leaves and litter— any way to force them to work
for it. Exercise will keep them in health. Also
give frequent messes of beaf scraps, liver,broken
bones, etc., and skim milk whenever you have.
Boosts Sensibly Arranged. The best roosts
f*ir a poultry house are strips four inches wide
and one inch'thick. The fowls can roost on these
with comfort to the feet. They should have a
clear space of one foot between them, and should
all be on one level and not more than one foot
from the floor. When thes^ are made like a lad-
der the fowls fight to crowd to the top, and when
they are high the hens are sometimes hurt by
coming heavily to the floor when flying down.
Air and Exercise. Your hens will do better
and keep in better health through the winter, if
allowed the pri\ilege of going out-of-doors
every day, than thej' will it conhned closely to
the house all the time. If the snow drifts up
artjund your poultry house, shovel it away from
the front clear to the ground, so that your hens
can get out for an airing. If they want to eat
snow, let them eat it. Bens that are regularlv
supplied with drink will not hanker after much
snow.— Prairie Farmer.
68
POPULAR GARDENING.
December,
Correspondent 8 are urjed to anticipate the season in prt-
aenting qtustiona. To aak, for instance, on April \b or 20
what Peas had best be sown, could briny no ansieer in
the May issue, and none be/ore June, irhen the ansiper
would he unseasonable. Questions received before the lith
of any month stand a good chance of being anstcered in the
next paper. Sot more than three questions should be sent
at one time. Ansvers to qut. si in iiJi betring on tr.e com-
parative value of implements, etc., offered by different
dealers must notoe expected. Neither can irr promise to
oomply with the request sometimes made to "I'leus*- anstrer
by mail." Inquiries appearing without name belong to the
name next following.
Replies to Inquiries are earnestly requested from our
readers. In anstoering such give the number, your
locality and name, the latter not for publication, unless
ou disire. Write only on one side of the paper.
1.536, Roses not Blooming. My Moss Rose? In very
rich soil make wonderful growth but no bloom. What's
the cause and remedy? B. E. G., Dalton, Ga.
1.537. Nitrate oJ Soda. Am imable to find it In
market.— R. G. P. Burlingio7i, ^^
1,53S. Psony not Blooming. My white Paeony,
three or four years old, has never bloomed. How
should 1 treat it?— N. B. A., Wilfvrd, Tenn.
1.539. Quince Propagation. Are Quinces propaga-
ted from cuttings, or by grafting on Apple root?— G. F.
M. Dayton. O.
1.540. Black Spot on Roses. What can I do for di-
sease affecting my Roses?—.!. T A. Gallatin. Mo.
1, 541 Tea Roses. How are they best grown for
market from cuttings of outdoor plants?— E. H., O.
1,542. Pronouncing Dictionary. Is there a book
giving the proper proaunciation of all names of
flowers, shrubs, etc.?— W. L. P., Utah.
\,MS. Chrysanthemum Seedlings. Is there a way
to tell the single from the double-flowered before
blooming?— Mrs. R. L., Necada.
1,5^4. Myrtle Dying. Bed in front of brick dwell-
ing, facing west, shaded by tree. Give remedy.
1.545. Killing Rats How can 1 keep rats from rab-
bit coops without danger to the latter?— Buefalonian.
1.546. JeweU Grape. Where can I get vines?— F. J.
Racitie, Wis.
1.547. Raisins from American Grapes. Can they
be made; and if so, give best method of curing.— K. P.
F., Sterling, Kan.
1.548. Raspberry Pruning. What is meant by "cut-
ting ba':'k severely," In feet or inches?— B. D., Ind.
1.549. Growing Aloes. What treatment do they re-
quire?—R. E. T. i^fiVy, Ohio.
1.550. Wire Worms. How ca,n I rid a piece of Ismd
that Is badly infested?- F. M. C, Mentor, O.
1.551. Lily of the Valley. Give best method of fore-
Ing.- E. R., Ohio.
1.552. Remedy for Rabbits- How can I best prevent
their guawlng bark off voung trees? How would coal
tar do?-G. D. E. E., Ky.
1.553. Varieties of Small Fruits. What varieties
shall I plant here? W. H. H., Mahoning, Pa.
1.554. Norway Maple. One seems to be dying ou
one side. Will cutting the tt)p back severely help it?
And when should it be done?- E. P. R., Sidney, O.
1.555. Pruning Grapes. When and how should it
be done in Georgia?
1.556. Distance of Grape Vines. Is six feet between
them too close?
1.557. Japan Persimmons. How far apart should
they be planted?
1.558. Manuring Grapes and Fruit Trees. How
can ground be enriched most economically?— W. S. J.,
Augusta, Ga.
1.559. Size of Silo. How small can it be made, and
work well?— L. C. M., North Bergen, N. Y.
1.560. General Grant Crab Apple. Is it a sweet or
sour variety?
1.561. Budding Peaches and Cherries. How high
from the ground is the bud usually inserted?— A. B. M.,
West Grove, Iowa.
1.562. Book on Propagation. What is the best work
ou propagation of Evergreens, shrubs, Roses, etc.—
T. W. S., ConcordvitU-, Pa.
1.563. Effect of Sulphates. Does sulphate of potash
or sulphate of ammonia help to make plantfoodsin
the soil available as does sulphate of lime?
1.564. Muriate and Sulphate of Potash. Why Is
the former usually recommened as a fertilizer for
fruits in preference to the latter?-G.C.B..Co/M7nbia,A'.C.
1.565. Dry Maple Leaves. Are they good for mulch-
ing Strawberries, or are they liable to smother the
plants?
1.566. Summer Mulch. What Is the best material
for putting around Strawberries to keep fruit clean?—
W W. A. Watersleet, Mich.
1.567. Chicken Culture. Where can I get plans for
poultry houises, also information about chicken busi-
nes&?-R. S., Brooklyn, N. T.
1,56S. Draining Low Lands. Bottom of ditches
soft and liable to till tiles up with mud. What can I do?
— R. M., Pa.
1.569. Old Orchards. Should they be kept In grass,
orclean cultivation be given?— E.S.T..LongSrancft.,iV^. J.
1.570. Potato Spraying Pumps. Are they now to
be had, where aud at what price?— Sub-scriber.
1,571. English Sparrow. Is there no simple device
for trapping a whole flock?— E. W. N'., Scranton, Pa.
1,5?2. Lightning Rods. Do they afford protection
or not?— Syracuse.
1.573. Value of Swamp Muck. What is the esti-
mated value of nirogen? M. N. S., Lancaster, Pa.
1.574. Grape Cuttings. Will burying them in moist
soil keep them.'
1.575. Keeding Apple Cions. If burled in open
ground out reach of frost, are they in danger of heat-
ing or of mold?— G. T. K.. Paxton, Ills..
1.576. Aspidistra for Bedding. Is it suitable where
sun strikes bed all day?— M. A. H.. Kerney. Xeb.
1.577. Vinegar Flies. What will destroy them in
cellar? Pyrettirum or sulphur fimies do no good. Do
the flies spread infection from one fruit to another?
1.578. Castor Beans for Moles. If thrown in mole
runs, will they kill the moles?— Benj. B.
1.579. Water Gas for Heating. What is it and how
obtained?-C. N., City.
1.5S0. Failure with Rose Cuttings. Cuttings of
Hybrid Perpetuals root nicely under a handglass, but
always die when transplanted iu pots or beds. Why?
S,T., Brooklyn, N.T,
REPLIES TO INQUIRIES.
1.473. Cabbages Not Heading. Cabbai^es
which have not hardened may be set in a trench
of sufficient wndth to receive several heads, side
by side, and deep enough so that the heads will
be about even with the surface. Cover over with
hay, straw, or similar raat^^'rial, then with soil,
leaving it in a ridge that will shed water. No
water should stand around the Cabbages. Dis-
turb the soil ou the roots as little as possible.
The Cabbages must be removed to the trench be-
fore being frozen. Cabbages so treated and kept
from freezing will form quite solid heads by
spring.— F. H.Valentine.
1,463. Potato Dif^gers. Yes, there are several
Potato diggers, although there is a probability of
their being considerably improved. They nearly
all do good work ou clean laud, but the difficulty
has been to make them effective on weedy and
stony land as is found on many farms.— F. H. V.
1,447. Grapes on HouseWall. The vines should
be planted on the south side of the building, and
trained evenly over the wall. This is an excel-
lent way to cover an unsightly bam, or old build-
ing of any kind. There is no expense for trellis,
and Grapes will thrive finely, as they get the full
benefit of the sun's rays. Very little room is
required to grow Grapes in this way, as all that is
needed is soil enough to hold the roots. They
may be planted under a pavement, stones being
removed for the purpose, and then replaced. In a
Western city, a few yeare ago, a merchant showed
me a small area in the rear of his store which he
had filled with Wnes, trainin{^ them up to the
high brick walls, and he said that he had bushels
of Grapes every year.— F. H.Valentine.
1.474. Raspberry Pruning. I believe that the
sooner the old wood is removed, after the fruit is
gathered, the better for the future welfare of
plant. It certainly gives the plantation a neater
appearance to have the old and unsightly canes
removed. The old wood, in drying up, draws
considerable moisture from the plant, and saps
its vitality to a considerable extent. Then again,
if the refuse be removed and burned, a large
number of insects will be destroyed. Lastly,
time can be better spared for the work in the
fall.— F. H.Valentine.
1.475. Hubbard Squash. A dry, well -ventilated
cellar is an excellent place for keeping if it is
not too warm. The temperature should be kept
as near 40 degrees as possible. The Squashes
should be stored in shallow bins or shelves, one
layer deep, so that access may be had to them for
the purpose of removing any which may decay.
Handle at all times as though you were handling
eggs, and store none but perfectly ripe, hard-
shelled ones.— F. H.Valentine.
1,477. Mulching Strawberries. As soon as the
ground is frozen sufficiently to allow of driving
upon it. Freezing does not injure the plants, but
alternate freezing and thawing, and this the
mulch prevents.— F. H.V.
1,475. Hubbard Squash. Winter squash of all
varieties must be kept in a dry, warm place. I
keep them upon a table under the heater pipes
in the cellar. Squash should be very carefully
gathered and handled, great care being taken
not to bruise them. Last spring I kept the Essex
Hybrid until the midtUe^of April. The Uutman
is a fine variety to keep until January, the Hub-
bard after that, then tne Essex Hybrid for later
until April. -E.W. L.
l,5ti(i. Summer Mulch. Any clean litter will do
as a mulch around Strawberries to keep the fruit
clean. Straw, marsh hay, tan bark, sawdust-
all are good. Where coarse manure was applied
as a winter mulch, the litter left in spring, and
now comparatively clean, after being washed
out by the snows and rains of winter and spring,
will do very well f*)r summer mulch to keep the
berries off the groimd.
1,567. Chicken Culture. Orange Judd Co., of
New York City, publish books on the subject.
Address them. I
1,551. lily of the Valley. Forcing Lily of the
Vallej' is a very simple matter indeed. All you
have to do is to start them in a gentle bottom
heat about four weeks before the flowers are
wanted. To keep up a continuous supply it is
only necessary to continue planting them in
batches from time to time. The usual way, says
the Mass. Ploughman, is to make a sort of enclosed
hot-bed over the hot water pipes in the .green-
house. Into this is placed a layer of fine Sphag-
num Moss that serves as soil for the pips to grow
in. These are set with the point of the pip just
above the Moss. The main point aimed at is to
keep the bottom where the roots are ten or fifteen
dei:r('rs hotter than the air above, which at first
shouM nnt exceed ,50 to 55'', to be increased by
keeping the glass covering closer after there are
signs of sprtmting. Every bud or pip has its
flower alreadv formed, just as in an Apple or
Cherry, or otner fruit bud, in the fall, and in a
state of nature only waits the genial spring
warmth to bui-st out into a thing of beauty. In
such matters, all the gardener orflorist has to do
is to imitate nature, and give heat, gi-adually. at
fii-st, else there will be a failure to oi>en up finely.
A small space only is required, as the pips may be
placed one inch apart, and directly one crop is
gone, another batch takes its place. But little
leaf-growth starts with the early batch; the
flower-stem only pushes.
1.537. Nitrate of Soda. Of coui-se, you can not
find it in the drug stores, nor usually in stock
anywhere except at the large fertilizer manu-
facturers near the coast. Mr. Joseph Harris, of
Rochester, N. Y., is as far as we know the only
person who catalogues it for sale in small quanti-
ties, but a supply might be obtained from any of
the large Eastern fertilizer men by asking for it
as a favor, as we might say, and paying the
usually very reasonable first cost, and the freight
charges, usually unreasonable if the distance be
large. See also page TiS of Vol. IV.
1,572. Lightning Kods. Lightning-rods, we
believe, have seen their best day. Chief Walker,
of the Electrical department of the City of Phila-
delphia, expressed himself recently as follows:
In nine cases out of ten, I think lightning-rods
are humbugs. I believe it is a fact that more
barns were struck and burned that have rods
on than with them off. In the first place, it is
best to keep electricity as far away from a build-
ing as possible. The object of the lightning-rod
is to attract it. The rod is supposed to act as a
conductor of the electrical current to the earth,
but, instead of being carried off, the current, in
consequence of faulty construction of the rod or
attachment, is frequently switched into the build-
ing. The end of the wire is supposed to be buried
in moist earth, the moisture acting as a good
conductor. Without strict attention the iron
becomes oxidized and rusts off, and then the rod
is worse than nothing. It is a positive danger
under such circumstances, attracting the elec-
tricity of the atmosphere and having no adequate
outlet for it. Then, again, the same danger
arises when the insulators upon the sides of the
building become defective. The lightning is
attracted from the at luosphere, where it might
have remained but fur the rod, and it is turned
loose against the building on its way to the earth.
If, for instance, the attachments on a barn are
poor and worn out the current may be deflected
and set fire to the buil<ling. This is no uncommon
occurreiiee. In tliis city, some years ago, the rod
ou the HeUuunt Water Works was struck, and it
fused. The ciu-rent flowed on down and played
about the machinery in the liveliest kind of a
way. A big stone was knocked off the Washing-
ton Monument by lightning. When the ground
contact is good and the lightning is about to
strike a building a rod may be of use, but I think
the rods do more harm than good. There was a
time when farmers were scared into rodding
their barns and houses, but I think they are get-
ting over that.
1,5:59. Quioce Propagation, Propagation by
cuttings is the usual method with the Quince.
jNIature wood, taken off in autumn, is usetl for
the purpose. After the cuttings are made, says
A. S. Fufler in Propagation of Plants, they are
buried in a dry, warm place in the open ground,
or in a moderately cool cellar, and planted out in
spring. The cuttings may be made from the
one-year-old wood, and from this age to that of
fouror five yeai*s old. Layering the branches is
also often practiced as a mode of propagation;
also banking up of the sprouts that appear around
the base of old stocks, which have been headed
back for the purpose of producing these sprouts.
Varieties may be propagated by cuttings, bud-
ding and grafting, using inferior sorts or seedlings
for stocks. The .Japan ornamental varieties are
readily increased by cuttings of the young wood
of the season, taken after the frost has killed the
leaves in the fall, but the most rapid and certain
mode is by cuttings of their roots made in the
fall, kept in sand or Moss over winter, then sown
in drills early in the spring.
1,563. Book on Propagation. The best modern
work, undouVitedly is A. S. Fuller's Propagation
of Plants, published by Orange Judd Co. of New
York City, and for sale at the office of Popular
Gardening. Price $1.50.
1889.
POPULAR GARDENING.
69
l,a6',i. Old Orchards. Whethoi- to keep them
in grass or not that is a Icarting question. On
general principles we would answer in the nega-
tive. It is true that .Vpples ami standnni I'eai-s
usuall.v <1o very well in grass provided they are
otherwise properly provided witli food. I'nder
no eircunistanees, however, do we believe in
takiuB- any crop off the old orchard except the
fruits from the trees. If grass or anything else
is grown under them, it should be cut and left
for mulch, or eaten and tramped down on the
spot by pigs or sheep. As a partial preventive
of Pear blight Prof. Arthur recommended seed-
ing the orchaiil to grass, thereby ca\ising a
slower but harder growth less susceptible to the
contagion. On the other hand ilr. J. .1. Thomas
( and he is a good authority ) states that it be
more profltable to gi\ e Pear trees clean and
thorougli culture, even if the blight were to take
them off from time to time, makmg (reiiuent
re-planting of the orchard necessary. We side
witli Mr. Thomas Even if clean cultivation is
given, we can where blight is feared prevent the
growth of tender succulent wood by feeding
mineral foods, siich as ashes, basic slag, tloat«,
bone dust, iHJtJisli salts, etc., and withholding
nitn>genous fertilizers, especially barnyard
manure. The same holds good of Peaches, Plums,
and all other fruits. If any evidence were
needed to piK)ve the superioritj of clean culti-
vation over seeding down for Pears, Plums,
Peaches, and other ifruits, we would want no
better than that furnished us during our recent
visit at the fruit farms in the northern part of
this county. The phenominal success of the
growei's tfiere is, next to favorable location,
chiefly due to their practice of giving clean and
thorough cultivation. The trees that here ap-
pear sickly, compared with the unusua luxuri-
ance of the average, are those standing in sod.
This is also in harmony yntVt sound theory.
Grass is a great consumer of moisture, and if the
season be not an unusual wet one, trees standing
in sod must necessarily suffer more or less of the
lack of water that they so greatly need in order
to do their best.
1,558. Manuring Qrapes and Fruit Trees. The
most economical way of manuring Grapes and
fruit trees is the one which will insure the best
effect, i. c, give us the best fruit and the most
of it. Compared with the result, as a rule, the
cost of the fertilizer is only of secondary im-
portance. If, for instance, the soil be very thin,
i. c, deficient of vegetable matter, and our vines
and trees for this reason refuse to make what
gi'owth is needed for best results, we can better
afford to buy slable manure at current rates, and
secure a full crop by means of such expenditure,
than to save the latter and continue to harvest
a half or quarter crop. Or if we have plenty of
stable manure, but the soil is already well sup-
plied with humus. gi\-ing us a large growth of
wood and little fruit, besides making the trees
more susceptible to the attacks of diseases, we
can better afford to spend a little money for
potash or plain phosphate, than to apply more
stable manure (merely because we have it
already on hand ) and run all the risks named, or
continue to grow unsalable wood and to get
along without salable fruit. See also our answer
to l.riBfl, and the article on " fertilizers for fruits "
elsewhere in this issue.
1,461. Cacti Treatment. A. Blanc's Catalogue
and Hints on Cacti will give the desired informa-
tion. Price ten cents, .\ddress 3U N. llth street,
Philadelphia, Pa.— C. E. P.
1,460. Tuberous Begonia, it would require a
personal examination to ascertain the reason
why your Tuberous Begonia drops its buds. Why
cultivate it, when the others produce such satis-
factory results?— C. E. P.
1,409. Uannre for Strawberries. Why use
manure as a mulch, when one of the most import-
ant objects in mulching is to keep the f niit clean
and free from dirt? I advise the use of straw or
salt hay for mulching.— C. E. P.
1,542. Pronouncing Dictionary, There is none
that we are aware of, but we admit that one is
badly needed.
1,56.3. Effect of Sulphates. Very little is at
present known on this subject. It is very likely,
however, that the sulphuric acid contained in
sulphate of ammonia and sulphate of potash is
not without its effect in making other plant
foods in the soil available. This is still more, and
decidedly the case with sulphate in kainit, which
is an impure form of sulphate of potash.
1,564. Muriate and Sulphate of Potash. The
former is nsuiill.\' prt'f erred biTuu^t- it < if ten gives
exactly as gooil results as the latter, and certainly
is much cheaper.
1,514. Early Strawberry. It is hard to get a
berry earlier than the Crescent that is profltable.
The Crystal City is earlier but not very produc-
tive. Try Haverland which is enormously pro-
ductive, fertilized with Crystal City. They say
Haverland is best on clay or gravel. Cloud and
Michel's Early are claimed to be extra early in
the south. Cloud hasn't proved early at the
north, but it runs. I have seen rows spread
over eight feet wide in one season.— L.J. Farmer.
1,578. Water Gas for Heating. Mr. Temple of
Iowa spoke of this at the recent meeting of the
Florists at Duffalo. The Country Gentleman
obtained fromMr.Templcthe following additional
information: Water gas is made by heating to a
white heat an air-tight iron vessel or generator,
and injecting steam or a Une spray of water.which
forms water gas for fuel; it is made for ten to -30
cents per 1,000 feet, and at Jackson, Mich., they
claim to have made money, and a good water
illuminating gas for 3U cents per 1,000 feet, as I
have been informed. Water gas for illuminating
is made in the same way, but with the additiim
of a spray of kerosene to give it greater illumin-
ating power, and it has to be run through a
purifier, to get rid of the odor of the oil. Where
water gas is used for welding iron, it is mixed
with naptha to give it greater force and does
the work cleaner and better than any other fuel.
Natural gas in many places is giving out, and
inventors like Westinghouse of Pittsburg and
others are experimenting with water gas, and
expect to furnish it as cheap as natural gas is
sold for in some places. The time is not far dis-
tant when dwellings, stores, greenhouses and
factories will be both illuminated and heated
with water gas, doing awaj' with the use of coal,
the gas being furnished by companies the same
as water, electric light and gas are at present.
An English gentleman, Douglas G. MacKae,
editor of the London Finimcial Times, says water
gas is manufactured in England at a cost of four
pence per 1,000 feet, and that preparations are
being made to introduce the process in this
country.
1,552. Babbit Remedy, A correspondent of
Farmer's Home Journal gives the following as a
sure preventive of injury to young trees by
rabbits: Take equal parts of soft soap, sifted
ashes and flour, (the lowest grade as good as any)
and kneading the whole into a paste. The hands
have to be used, and the hands also have to apply
said composition to the stems. Thickness to be
about one-fourth of an inch — not less. Some-
times calves or hounds will lick it off 'ere it dries.
Sudden, washing rains may do the same thing,
but let it dry once and no rabbit will touch it
provided it is applied as high up as one of them
can reach, standing on his hind legs. But few
persons can stand it more than an hour or so at a
time, as it corrodes the hands rapidly; but dry,
said corrosive power ceases to exist.
1,.502. Planting Easpberries. The advantage
of setting Kasjiberry plants in the fall are that
you generally get a better growth provided they
are protected in winter and cultivated early
enough in the spring. Vacancies can be noticed
and filled out early in the spring. The advan-
tages of spring setting are that they require less
work early, and a crop can be more easily grown
among them the first year. It is a puttering
job to fit ground for a crop in the spring that is
occupied with Raspberries set the fall before.
Most growers, especially those having heavy or
strong soils, plant in the spring. We get a good
crop of Potatoes between the rows and plants
of Black Raspberries. Fall planted Hasiibcrries
should have a mound of earth arounci c;icli plant
for protection to be hoed away in the spring.—
L. J. F.iRMEB.
1,497. Pistillate Strawberries. We find that
pistillate varieties when properly fertilized
always bring in more money than the perfect
flowering kinds. The pistillate and perfect
should blossom at one time in order to properly
fertilize. Crescents and Warfleld may be planted
near Bidwell, Jessie and Wilson; Bubach and
Windsor Chief, near Burt Seedling. When prop-
erly cared for, there is no better variety to use
as a pollen producer than Bidwell. This and
Burt produce five times as much pollen as Wil-
son. But the Bidwell is too tender a plant for
N. y. state and so we substitute Jessie. As a
rule people do not plant enough perfect sorts
among the pistillates. Two rows of each, planted
alternately throughout the field is a good way.
A poor way is to mi.x the plants in the row as
the pistillates which as a rule outrun the per-
fect flowering soon crowd out the latter and in a
few years all are pistillates. Someone in Oswego
Co. mixed Crescents with Wilson and sold them
under the name of " Sprawlei-s." All worked
well the first year but in taking up for new
plantations very few were taken up and I can
go into beds were there is not one plant Wilson
in 100. The growers surely will be disappointed
when picking time comes.— t. J. Farjier.
1,493. Bis ci berry Disease. Probably your
Blackberries are on land not suited to them. We
find that naturally well-drained light soils are
best adapted for Blackberries. No use trying to
grow them on wet soils till well drained. We
grow good crops of Snyder Blackberries on
heavy soil by throwing up into narrow lands
with deep ditches between each two rows. Of
course level culture and land tile-drained would
be better. Plants making a healthy growth are
rarely attacked with disease.— L. J. Farmer.
1,.503. Manuring Blackberries. Manure will
increase the crop, but shouhl be scattered evenly
over the soil and not heaped around the canes.
-F. L. W.
1.510. Pruning Apples. Prune in spring by
all means, so says our state experiment station
and so says my experience. —F. L. W.
1.511. Salem Orape. Two or three inches of
st)il will protect it suflicicntl.v.— F. L. W.
1.512. Variegated Orape Agawam (Rogers 15)
is often variegated when the fruit is densely
shaded by the leaves. So is Massasoit (Rogers 3)
and Rogers No. 8. Mottled is also variegated
sometimes.— F. L. W.
1,495. Plum for Market. No Plum has been
found that pays as well so the Lombard.— F.L.W.
1,497. Pistillate Strawberries. Yes, if prop-
erly fertilized they are more productive than
the perfect flowering oues.— F. L. W.
1.501. Starting Grape Seedlings- Plant the
seeds in fall and cover with a board or mulch,
we prefer a board.— F. L- W.
1.502. Planting Baspberrie*. Plant the red
varieties in the fall, the black caps in spring.—
F. L. W.
1,521. White's Muscat Grape. We do not like
the foliage and it made a very poor growth this
summer.— F. L- W.
1,-525. Yield of Baspberries. The Gregg will
yield one-third more than either Tyler, or Sou-
negan. Nemaha and Ohio yield nearly as much
as Gregg.— F. L. Wright.
1,545 Killing Bats. To keep the premises
clear of rats and in fact, of all other vermin, is
a very simple and easy thing if you go at it in
the right way. A few rats can usually be caught
in a figure 4 dead-fall, or in a common steel trap,
and with a little care in baiting and hiding the
trap, even the more experienced old rat will
often fall a victim to its voraciousness. When
rats have once become suspicious, bait them for
awhile with cheese crumbs, sunflower seeds and
other dehcacies, then set the trap again. The
best way to set a steel trap for rats is to set it
without baiting, cover with a piece of thin
muslin a yard square, and strew cheese crumbs
and similar bait all over it. Of course where
you keep rabbits, such a trap must be set in a
box or any place accessible to the rats but not to
the rabbits. But at most hardwares you can
now get for 25 cents a trap that is almost " sure
catch " everytime, and we think you can set it
an.vwhere without risk of catching rabbits. It
is a stout wire loop closing down with a power-
ful spring and catching the animal that attempts
to lift up the cheese rind or meat fastened to the
trigger, by the neck. The struggle is but short,
and the animal dies without being able to utter
a sound. You take the victim out, reset the
trap, and the next rat that comes will surely
invite the fate of the first. The trap when set
looks so harmless and insusiiicious, that the rats
never seem to get on to the trick imtil they are
caught. Ever since using this kind of trap, we
have no more trouble from rats, as they are dis-
posed of just as fast as they find their way from
our neighbors to our premises.— U. S. W.
1,535. Yield of Baspberries, With me the
Gregg leads them all. Picked and sold 133
bushels from one acre the past season. Tyler
comes ne.xt ; it does bettor here than Souhegan.
—Geo. E. Hanchett, Wis.
1,-536. Boses not Blooming. Moss Roses as a
rule require rather close pruning, and better
treatment, including a liberal soil and good
cultivation than ordinary kinds. The plants
will not thrive in wet, cold damp soils but prefer
rather a warm dry soil well supplied annually
with manure, or better still decayed turf with
which has been inctirporated about one-sixth
l>art of stable manure. Where plants have
declined in health they should, unless of large
size, be taken up and be replanted in fresh loamy
soil, and cut back hard. It may be added that
some Moss Roses are of delicate growth, although
others are vigorous and robust enough. As a
rule all succeed best when grown upon low
stocks or otherwise on their own roots ; the
latter mode is best suited to the old Crimson Moss
Rose and no garden where Roses are grown
should be without this old favorite.
1,-548. Pruning Baspberries. To tell in "feet
and inches " what it means to prune Raspberries
" severely " is more than we would care to do.
It is pretty much the same as with fruit-trees.
One tree might be pruned too severely by clip-
ping off a foot of growth, while another might
require to have two or three feet of all or_part
of the limbs cut off. Much depends on size, vigor,
variety, etc. The aim in summer pruning is to
form a self-supporting stout bush, and for this
reason the imds of the young canes may be
nipped off when they begin to grow above the
old growth. We always like to keep the canes
within three or three one-half feet from the
grotnid, then afterwards nip the ends of the
laterals, leaving the lower ones a little longer,
and giadually tapering to the top end. Let the
lowest arms be say from six to twelve inches long
those at the extremity say three to five inches
long.-F. R. P.
70
POPULAR GARDENING.
December,
1,471. NastOTtiams. Presuming that you refer
to the climbing varieties, or Tropsuolum Lobbia-
num, I would say yes, if given a light sunny
situation, and a temperature of from 50 to 60
degrees.— C. E. P.
1,486. Eose Seedlings. A light coTering of
Evergreen branches, applied as soon as the
ground becomes frozen in the fall, will be all the
care they require this season.— C. E. P.
1,484. Cranberry Caltnre, Tou can procure
plants of most nurserymen. For directions as to
their management consult White's Cranberry
Culture.-C. E P.
1,48.5. Tartarian Honeysackle. This shrub
can be readily increased by layers, cuttings, or
from 'seeds. If you desire a few plants only, lay-
ering will answer your purpose best.— C. E. P.
The cats usually come back to the same
spot, but they soon leave when their feet
come in contact with the sharp points of
the device. Should they go to another place,
we follow with the contrivance, and soon
the cats learn that our premises are not a
pleasure resort for them.
Cat Nuisance About Gardens and
Greenhouses.
W. N. SUMMERS, WORCESTER CO., MASS.
I have no special love for cats at any time;
but perfectly detest them ever since we have
had them in our greenhouse on several oc-
TWO AT THE GAME.
casions. And what mischief a cat can do in
a greenhouse in a single cold night, the
average reader who merely glances at the
sketch given which shows one cat in the
act of climbing a plant pot, and another cat
ready to jump down, will hardly appreciate,
unless he happens to think of the broken
lights, the escape of warm air, and the ten-
der plants in that part of the house exposed
to a nipping draught, and perhaps to actual
freezing. Cats generally select the nights
of lowest temperature and most piercing
winds for exploits of this character, and
that part of a greenhouse which contains
the choicest and tenderest plants, for the
point of entrance.
I am plain to assert that at present we are
at war with all cat kind. Xo member of
the treacherous race finds a welcome in our
home on the plea that it may catch a mouse
once a month, or a rat once a year. (We
have good traps, and know how to set them.)
But there are plenty of cats in the neighbor-
hood—pets of people with whom we try to
live in peace— and (pests for us) know how
to climb the garden wall. We have patience
to endure the nightly concerts, but how to
protect our greenhouses we hardly know.
To keep cats from digging up borders and
beds in the garden is comparatively much
easier.
An English gardener has hit upon the
contrivance shown in the engraving at right-
hand corner of page. He cuts strips of
tin, about one-eighth in width and two
inches long (see b fig. 1), and arranges each
two in the form of a cross. They are then
soldered on a flat piece of tin two or three
inches wide and of any length desired, and
in this form may be seen at c rf fig. 2. The
ends are now turned up in the manner
shown at c, and cut to a sharp point.
As soon as we find the soil on our beds
disturbed by cats, we put one or more of
these contrivances on the ground, points up-
ward, and cover the flat pieces with earth.
Water Plants and Fish.
Live tish and live water plants— this is a
combination which wherever seen, hardly
ever fails to excite the interest of old and
young. Any large glass bowl, globe or jar,
says the Philadelphia Press, may be used
for an aquarium. The larger the receptacle
the better, for then plants may be grown in
it which will not only add to its beauty, but
also lessen the necessity of changing the
water often. A good sized glass tank, well
constructed and containing both animal and
vegetable life, will certainly prove a most
desirable ornament for the room. The
builders of those large aquariums in Lon-
don aimed to expose the largest possible por-
tion of the water to the air, in order that it
might absorb oxygen therefrom. This may
be a hint to those who would construct
smaller aquariums. The difficulty seems to
be that animals that breathe by gills absorb
oxygen much more slowly than lung-breath-
ing animals do; hence they require that
about the normal proportion of free oxygen
be contained in the water. This diflicultv
is overcome in small vessels by changing
the water frequently; which is easily done
by drawing it off by a rubber siphon and
pouring in fresh water when the contents
have been nearly emptied.
If the aquarium is to be more than a fish
bowl it might be well to arrange some small
rock work the first thing and fasten it solid
with cement. This will afford a retreat for
the flsh and an anchor for the water plants.
These plants will be helpful, for they will
utilize the carbon dioxide of the animals by
appropriating the carbon and giving back
the oxygen, thus simulating the interchange
that goes on in nature. A variety of plants
should be chosen, and the only qualification
necessary is that it grows in water. The
most interesting part of the aquarium will
be the fishes. These may be dipped from
the creek, and any variety will probably live
for some time with fair treatment. It will
add to the interest to introduce other small
water animals, such as snails, young cray-
fishes, tadpoles, etc. Doubtless everyone
knows that nothing is handsomer for the
aquarium than gold fish. Unfortunately
these often fail to do well with inexperi-
enced persons. Greater care is necessary
than for other fish. The receptacle must
not be too small. They must not be caught
with the hands, but with a net, and never
touched unless strictly necessary; they must
not be fed every variety of food, and doubt-
less a few pieces of chopped beef is all that
is needed. Change the water frequently
and do not frighten the fish.
Thus far our contemporary. We have on-
ly to add, that the aquarium will be all the
more interesting, if stocked instead of with
common gold fish, which are apt to become
monotonous and tedious after a while, with
Chinese macropodes, or with .Japanese gold
fish. The macropodes with their brilliant
and ever changing hues, and their playful
habits, and the Japanese gold flsh with
their enormous swallow tails, are always
objects of admiration and attention.
The Insect Powder Industry.
Insect powder is oue of the great bless-
ings of the age; it gives us control, more or
less complete, over some of the worst pests
that the people have to fight against. Its
only drawback is the difficulty of getting a
fresh article (which alone has full strength),
or rather the prevalence of stale, weak pow-
ders. The latter can be had at almost every
drug store, while the good and effective
powder has to be hudted up. This is the
reason why we have watche<l with so much
interest the beginning and gradual growth
of the insect powder industry in this country.
The "Persian " insect powder, which is the
product of the Pyrethrum roseum, and the
Dalmatian, which is that of the Pyrethrum
ciueraria?folium, are imported at the rate of
several hundred tons a years. For the
reasons stated, however, it is very question-
able whether the aggregate amotint of ben-
efit and satisfaction resulting from this
importation is as large as that from the 50
tons of "Buhach " now annually produced
in California.
The imported insect powder has served as
basis tor the "insect killers" put up in
pepper-box-like packages, and sold under
various more or less fanciful names. While
these enterprises smack a little of humbug-
gery, on the whole, they have aided in
making the people acquainted with the
merits of insect powder, as usually the goods
when first put up were fresh, and the small
size of the packages made it unlikely for
much of it to become stale in the consumer's
hands. But after all, the powder produced
in California from the flowers of Pyrethrum
clnerariaefolium, and known under the trade
name of "Buhach," Is so much stronger
than even the best of the imported article
that we hope the time will come when the
American product will take entire possession
of the home market. In the light of our
own personal experience with both kinds
we would rather take one pound Buhach
than flve of the Persian or Dalmatian insect
powder of the drug stores, even it " war-
ranted fresh."
Mr. G. N. Milco, a native of Dalmatia,
first introduced the Pyrethrum cinerarife-
folium into California in 1877. Now about
300 acres near Atwater are devoted to its
cultivation. The fields are irrigated, and
from the sowing of the seed three years of
care and of constant supervision are required
before a paying crop is insured. The plants
are most productive at the age of four or
five years, but continue to produce paying
crops for several years more. The Pacific
Rural Press gives the following account of
the manner of harvesting the fiowers:
It grows to a height of about 30 inches
and is planted in rows four feet apart and
from 1.5 to 24 inches apart in the row. The
flowers are generally harvested in the latter
part of May. The stalks are cut at the roots
of the plant, and the flowers broken off by
passing the stems through a sort of comb,
which detaches the flowers, and they are
then carried to
the drying-
ground, where
they are spread
upon sheets and
exposed to the
rays of the sun to
dry. During the
day they are often
turned, and at
night they are
covered to pre-
""'ii 2 vent them from
GUARD AGAINST CATS. absorbing any
moisture. The perfect drying of the flowers
is a most important operation, as, in order
to retain the volatile oil which gives to the
powder its insect-destroying properties, it
is very necessary that the flowers should
be dried quickly and thoroughly, and be
protected during the process from all mois-
ture. A light dew falling upon the flowers
during the drying process will color them
and reduce their value as an insecticide.
In this respect the California-grown flowers
are better cured, and consequently more
valuable than those grown in Dalmatia.
1889.
POPULAR GARDENING.
71
Oct.
..Sept., Nov.
.July, Oct.
July, Oct.
.Sept., Oct.
Oct., Nov.
July, Aug.
THE COMPLETE GARDEN.*
XXXII.
BY A WKLL-KNOWN HOKTICULTllRIST.
(CoHtinuffi from Jtage 47.)
CLASSIFIED L.IST OF HARDY FLOWERS,
CONTISrF.D.
CLASS 4. ITsaally four feet or over in height.
For Key to Sckction sec September Issue.
Name Colm: Season.
(I Arun(ioDoua.\(Rffri).piHfcl/«'hitcJiily. Aug.
toliis varie!nitis( Var-
iegated lieed) pinkj/ic/iiff July, Aug.
c .Aster Nova AUKlica. vinht nisf Sept., Oct.
thyrsiflorus paic Wuc. Sept., Nov.
/ Bocconia {Celaiiiliiie
Tree-Plume foppy).
cordata white . July, Aug.
Japonica white July. Aug.
e B Calystegia iBcarbind)
pubescens fl. pi.
icUmber) d<m6iepinhJune,Sept.
gigantea large w7ii(eJune, Sept.
A De\phmium( Perennial
Larkspur^
Formosum and hy-
brid varieties . . blue shadcsJuDe.Jiily.
y Erianthus Kavennie. purple. Oct.
A g Eulalia Japouica ze-
brina {Zebra Grass).pinh. .(let.
g .Tapouica albo line-
ata pjirple.
GaltoniafByaeinthtis).
g eandicaxis iproteet). white July,
g Gjnerium {Pampas
Grass).
argenteum iproteethvhite
e i Helenium auturanaleycI/oM'.
Helianthus iSun.ffoY).
A Multiflorus pi.
{Double Perennial
Sunflower) yellow
c f orgyalis yellow
Maximiliani yellow.
Humulus (Hop).
lupulus {climber) .. .yellmc .
B Lathyrus(£Der!a8finfit
Pea).
latitoUus rosf July, Sept.
latlfolius albus .. lohite July, Sept.
/ Polygonum {Knot
Weed).
Siebold white Sept.
/ Rheum {Bhubarb)
several species white May, July.
c / Silphium {Rosin
Plant).
pertoliatum (Cup-
plant) yeHlow.
f Solidago {Golden Rod)
taller species. . . -yellmc Aug., Oct
SpiT-x&{McadowSweet)
Ji AruDCUs (Goats
Beard) white June.
c venusta rose .July, Aug.
Cg 'Iritoma{ FlamUal flower
Red-hot Poker Plant)
uvaria scarlet, ye^. Aug., Oct.
c Verbascum {Mullein).
Several species yell(m\ctc June, Sept.
e Vernonia (Jroji Weed)
fasciculata purple. .. Sept., Oct.
c Veronicas
Several species. -blue,ete.
ANNUAL AND BIENNIAL FLOWEIUNG PLANTS.
The annual flowers of which Asters, Mig-
nonette, Sweet Pea, Morning Glories, etc.,
are among the better linown representa-
tives, may well be called "Everybody's"
flowers. The plants are rai?ed from seed
annually; a task easily accomplished by any
one. The seed is inexpensive; a five or ten
cent paper of a kind being usually enough
to raise many plants. The plants yield re
turns sooner after the inve.stment than do
most other subjects of the flower garden-
sow a packet of seed of the earlier-blooming
kinds in April or May and in two months
flowers will appear in abundance. For full
directions on sowing the seeds of annuals
see Section XXIII of this serial in the Feb-
ruary issue.
So far from annuals and biennials being
inferior in the quality of their bloom be-
cause cheaply and easily acquired, we have
•Copyright. 1887, Popular Gardening Publishing Co.
but to ask: What flowers arc sweeter than
Mignonettey what ones richer in color and
texture Ihan the Chinese Pinks, Zinnias or
Balsams? Where in the entire floral king-
dom can lovelier blossoms be found than the
Sweet Peas or the Naturtiums afford; or
grander flowering plants Ihan the improved
Asters, Petunias or Phloxes? Yet these and
many others are of the annuals or may be
treated as such.
Another merit of some annuals is their
ability to perpetuate themselves by self-
A FINE ANNUAL. THE ASTER.
seeding. Thtis, in the case of Single Petu-
nias, Portulacas, Verbenas, Poppies, Erisy-
mum, and some others it is very easy to
have a mass of these kinds in abed by them-
selves reappear year after year without cost
and with no other trouble than a slight re-
gard to the safety of the young plants.
In the present place I desire to devote
such attention to the classification of the
Annual and Biennial section of seed grown
flowers, as will enable even the most inex-
perienced gardener to choose of them with
good judgment. This I consider of much
importance in view of the many kinds now
offered, a large proportion of which can
scarcely give satisfaction unless used with
marked discretion. Space will not permit of
a minute description of all the kinds now
offered, neither is this necessary for any one
of the hundreds of catalogues issued by the
seed trade, which can easily be procured,
lays sutflcient stress on descriptions of kinds
to answer all needs. My desire rather is to
help those amateurs who, in consulting a
catalogue are contused by the large number
of kinds offered, not knowing which to
choose. The following helpful classification
is therefore offered.
CLASSIFIED LISTS OF ANNUAL AND BIENNIAL
GARDEN FLOWERS.
For a collection of ten " no fail " annuals for
beginners, choose Z
For a collection of the best .30 annuals add Fto
above.
For a collection of the best (JO annuals add X to
above.
For climbers choose v.
For everlasting flowers choose w.
For Grasses choose t
For kinds suitable for vase, basket and pot
culture choose s.
For Masses or lines of colors choose from r.
For kinds with attractive foliage choose from/'.
For a rockery choose h.
Class 5, Hardy Annuals and Biennials, In
this class is included those kinds that are
sufficiently hardy to admit of being sown
in the open ground at early garden-making
time; being in this respect analogous to
Lettuce, Peas, Parsnips, etc., among garden
vegetables. Some kinds may be sown even
in the fall of the year to advantage.
Name, height in feet. Color. Season.
Y Ageratum Mexiea-
num.— 2..-. bhie July, Sept.
Agrostemma corou-
aria (Compion)—lJ^. rose M'?ii(€ July, Sept.
r Althea [IloUylinclO.-S
toil various — July, .4ug
r Alys.sum, Sweet —H. «))iJlc. ,lune, Oct
i( Amobiuraalatum— IHw'i'tc. . F.verlast'g
Uurtonia aurea.— IH Ooldcn .. July, Aug.
Ridens atrosanguinea
—2 c)-imso»i....Aug., Oct.
X Cacaliad'ossel Flower;
Flora's Paint Brush)
—1 seii'i C(*)r.v.July. Aug.
X Calendula pluvialis
{Cape Marigold )var-
ious— 1 ... (iraiiyf.cfc. July, Sept
Zv
Xh
Zh
Xh
Xe
Xh
Yb
Yu
Zh
Yv
THE LAOINATED CHINESE PINK.
Calliopsis tinctoria
{Coreopsis) various.
—1 to 2 yeWni! . . . .July, Sept.
Campanula speculum
{Venus' Looking
Glass).— % various.. .July, Aug.
Carduus benedictus
{Bles.'!ed Thistle)— 3.. yellow . .. July, Sept.
Centaurea moschata
{Sweet Sultan) . purple . July, Sept.
Cyanus {Batchelor's
Buttun or Com
Bottle) various — July, Oct.
Centranthus macrios-
iphon pink, etc. June, Sept.
ArgemoneCJMea; (cam
Poppy) «)hi(c, etc .. Aug., Sept.
Chrysanthemum, An-
nual.—1 to 2. . . yellow, etc. July, Oct.
Clarkia pulchella—l-K!ac, etc .June, Oct.
Cleome grandiflora — t.rose .. .July, Aug.
Collinsia bicolor.— l.rose, etc. .June,Sept.
Convolvulus major
(Morning Glory)— Wvarious . July, Sept.
mlnor(7>ioarf Morn-
ing Glory) —1 . ..various . June,Sept.
Cosmidium Burridge-
anum — 2 crimson. .. July, Aug.
Cosmus bipinnati —2. various July, Oct.
Datura fastuosa and
other varieties —^. white, etc.. July, Aug.
Delphinium ajacis
(Larkspur) in var-
iety—1 to 2 . .various July, Oct.
Dianthus Chinensis
(Chinese Pinks) vai'-
ious— ?4 rarioits .. July, Nov.
Heddewigii (Japan
Pinks) various— l.i'arious . July, Nov.
Erysimum Peroffski-
anum.— 1 orange .. June,Aug.
Escholtzia Califoruica
(Californian Poppj/j
in variety.— 1 . . . yellow, etc June.Sept
Gilia in variety.— 1 . .bitje,«ihite.June,Aug.
Godetia in variety. — 1
to2 rose, etc.. July, Oct.
Gypsophila in variety
—% to 1 pink, etc. -July, Aug.
Hedysarum ooronar-
ium {Fretich Honey-
suckle)—Z ... .. red, white Sept., Oct.
Helianthus(Si(n.^o«'er)
in variety.— t to !). yellcyw. . . .Aug., Oct.
Helichrysum {Eternal
Flower) in variety . .i/cJ(ott', etc.Everlast'g.
Hesperis matronalis
{Sweet Rocket)— li4 imrp.whiteAug., Oct.
Hibiscus Africanus—2(/e!to«) .. .Aug., Oct.
Iberis {Candytuft) in
variety.—^ to 1 white, c(c, June,July.
Ipomoea coccinea
(Star rpomcca)- ICscartct .. .July, Sept,
Kaulfussia in var.— J^hiue, etc--. Aug.
72
POPULAR GARDENING.
December,
Z D LathjTus odoratus
(Si('e«t Peas) in var-
iety.—5 corMms . . June,Sept.
Lavatera trimestris -T/reA July, Aug.
X s Leptosiphon in varie-
ty.—1 rose, etc... July, Aug.
Xb Lunaria biennis (flon-
e»t\); Satin Flower). purple May, June.
X Lupinus (Lupines;
Sun Dial) in variety
— Hto3 various . July, Oct.
Malcomia Maritiraa
(VirginianStoch)~i4lilac. . . June.-^uly.
Malope Grandiflora
(Large-flowered Ma-
kipe)—2 red Aug.,Sept.
Malva zebrina(S(j~ipccJ
Mallow)— 2 «iJii(c, etc. Aug., Sept.
Ys Mathlola annua (Ten-
Weeh Stock) in var-
iety.—1 to 1!^ various ...June, July.
X Mirabilis Jalapa(Foj(r
O'Cloek; Marvel of
Peru) in variety— 2 lorkim . . Aug., Oct.
Nigella Damascena
{Lnve-in-a-Mist)—l.hlue . ...June.July.
s Nolana postrata— !4 Mue July , Aug.
ODnothera odorata
{Pragrant Evening
Primrose) yellow — July, Aug.
Z Papaver (Poppy) in
variety— 1^ to 2 . . varii>us . June.Aug.
Z Phlox Drummondi in
large variety— 1 various Aug., Nov.
Zs Reseda odorata (iliiy-
nonettr) in variety
— lto2 .. . . ..6i(#, etc . .July, Oct.
Sanvitalia procum-
bens— Ji yellow .. .July, Oct.
Sapouaria Calabrica
(Bouncing Bed— 1 pink, etc. .July, Oct.
X Seabiosa (Mourning
Bride] in variety—
1 to 3^ various Aug., Nov.
Schizanthus Grahanii
—2 red, etc . . . Aug.,Sept.
Ye Silene Armeria(ro(cft-
^i/)in variety— 1 to2)^j-ose, etc June, Aug.
Y Tagetes (Marigold) in
variety— 1 to 2 .. .yeUoui, etc. Aug., Oct.
Z V Tropseolum majus
(Naaturtiumjia var-
iety—6 various .. July, Sept.
Yv peregrinam(Canary
Hird Flower)— 9,. . yellow .July, Sept.
Fhs Dwarf Nasturtiums— liwrious . .June,Sept.
Viscaria oculata{/?o8e
of Heaven)— I . . pitik, c(c July, Sept.
X u Xeranthenium an-
num in variety— 2 purple, efc.Everlast'g.
Y Viola tricolor {Pansy)
many varieties varitms . May, Sept.
(To be Continueil.)
Self-Operating Animal Gun.
A California firm, Foreman Brothers of
Bidwell's Bar, Cal., have invented a new
device for shooting gophers, moles and other
small burrovping animals. Our illustration
SELF-OPERATING ANIMAL GUN.
o£ it, reproduced from Pacific Rural Press,
makes mechanism and the manner of setting
in an excavation facing the animal's burrow,
quite plain. The gun or pistol is shown set
and ready for firing off. A disk which com-
municates with the trigger, is inserted a little
ways into the burrow, and the animal, in the
attempt to pa.ss through to the open end, or
in moving dirt against the disk in trying to
stop up the hole, meets its speedy death.
We have no doubt that a device of this kind
can be successfully employed for the destruc-
tion of woodchucks, which are so trouble-
some in many Eastern localities, and per-
haps for many other animals. Of com-se,
for larger game larger guns can be made on
the same principles. lu handling and set-
ting caution must be exercised, same as
with any other gun.
Chrysanthemums and their Culture.
KATE M. SESSIONS, SAN DIEao, CAL.
If a Rosebush lives from year to year and
has the soil and water it needs, its Ijeauty and
value enhances with age; but the beauty of
the Chrysanthemum fades fast, and each
spring new and thrifty plants must be pro-
pagated by slips.
Chrysanthemum seed of the best quality
will generally produce more that is poor
than good, yet most of the new sorts are
growTi from seed. As soon as a plant is out
of bloom, the flowering stalks should be cut
down and the plant repotted or reset in the
ground to give it fresh soil to live and thrive
upon. The Chrysanthemum roots are vig-
orous and dense, but not long; therefore
the soil immediately in contact is completely
impoverished when the season has passed,
hence the need of a new position.
Propagation.~ln February a vigorous
growth will begin, and then is the time to
propagate the new stock of flowering plants.
Cut the tender shoots .iust below a joint,
three to Ave inches long; set in a bed o£
sand, or even sandy soil will do. Keep the
bed damp but not saturated; protect by
some shading from the hot sunshine, but
do not cover at night nor on cloudy or damp
days. In a month to six weeks good roots
will be established. Set the young plants
in the open ground, or in small pots until
they are sturdy and vigorous, then trans-
plant to the permanent place. The most
important part of the successful cultivation
of the Chrysanthemum begins at this point.
Never allow these young plants to receive
any check, but keep them growing contin-
uously. Cool, moist weather is the climate
the Chrysanthemum thrives in best, induc-
ing a thrifty growth, which keeps the wood
in a soft and brittle condition; hot and dry
weather hardens the wood, and flowering
begins at once.
Plants may be set out as late as June. If
the early sorts arc set early and the late
late, a longer season of bloom can be ob-
tained and flowers may be had until the new
year. The famous Christmas Eve is one of
the best late whites. Nipping back should
cease by Aug. 1st for the earlier sorts.
Soil and Trciifmciif.— Chrysanthemums
do not require any special kind of soil, but
they do need plenty of enriching and an
abundance of water. A moderate amount
of well-decayed fertilizer should be spaded
into a permanent bed, and after a month's
growth and the warm weather is at hand,
spread a liberal supply of as old dressing as
po.^sible on the surface; frequent waterings
will then give most satisfactory returns.
Soot water is a help during the entire season.
The foliage should be sprayed every day.
It keeps the plants fresher, the foliage
brighter, and lessens the liability to pests,
though these are few.
To secure fine e.xhibition flowers, the buds
must be thinned from the plants just as the
tree is relieved by the wise farmer to pro-
duce fine fruits. Those sorts which bloom
in large terminal clusters are the most im-
proved by disbudding. This can best be
done with a pointed stick or penknife.
Bloom for E.rhibit —The ideal plant of
this country and the standard at American
exhibitions is the bush plant. This may be
anywhere from 2,'^ to 4 leet in diameter, of
nice contour and each branch termiiuited
with a good sized, fairly formed flower. In
such cases all the buds but one perfect and
strong one on the end of each branch are
removed. Many exhibitors allow the plant
to bear but one immense specimen flower.
The result of such cultivation is shown in
flowers of the "Mrs, Frank Thompson" ten
inches in diameter, "Mrs. Carnegie" nine
inches in diameter. Such flowers are only
the reward of much labor and experience.
In competitive exhibitions for the finest
cut bloom specimens, but one flower of a
sort is allowed to be shown, hence the pains
taken to produce that one.
Cut ffoM'fi-s,— Many of these perfect speci-
men flowers are grown for the cut-flower
trade. Two years ago the "Mrs, Wheeler"
was universally worn in New York and
Boston and was sold readily at 35 cents
each. In England the cost to the grower of
such flowers is a shilling each.
The artistic nature of the Chrysanthe-
mum commends it to all lovers of the beau-
tiful—the long and ragged petals of one
class contrast strongly with the round ball-
like flowers of another, and the tiny pompon
no larger than a dime may stand beside a
flower eight to ten inches in diameter.
Every autumnal tint can be matched in
these flowers, and we may safely say no yel-
lows could be brighter, no reds warmer or
pinks paler, no snows whiter than those of
the Chrysanthemum.
New York Market Quotations,
Showing Tendencies.
Week ending Week ending
Nov, 20. Nov. 6
Apples— Western King, per bbL, S 5034 00 3 25®3 75
Western Fall sorts, per bbl, , 2 00(S 3 50 2 OOiSS 00
Western Greening, per bbl. . 2 5062 75 2 50@3 00
Western Baldwin & Spy p.bbl 2 25<a2 50 2 25®2 50
State Winter Mixed, per bbl, 17562 00 1 75@.2 OO
Greening up-river, per bbl,, 2(I0®3 25 2 00®'"'5
Baldwin & Spy, per bbl l 75@2 00 1 ^5@■2 00
Grapes— ConcordW,N,Y„51b,b't, 18® 20 18® 21
Catawba, W,N.T„ .5 lb, bask. IS® 22 18® ^
Isabella, W.N,Y„ 9 lb. bask.. 84® 28 24® 28
Pear.s— Lawrence .*W.Nelis, p. b, 2 75®.'! 50 2 75(83 5n
Vicar, per bbl 2CO®250 200®25(|
Cooking, per bbl 2 00®3 50 2 ()0®2 50
Cranberries— Cape Cod, per bbl. 3 0O®8 00 5 no@8 oo
Jersey, per crate 1 87@2 25 1 87®2 25
Oranges-Florida, per 14 bbl box 2 00c52 50 2 50@3 00
Lemons— Florida, per box 2 00®4 50 3 00@4 50
Apples— I^vaporated, 1889 7 l^llO 7 ®io
Evaporated, 1888 5 ® TiA 5 ©a
N.C., sliced, 1889 4 ® 5W i ® su
Ohio & Michigan, 1889, bbls, , 4H@ 5 4«® s**
Chopped, perlb Sk® SW Sim su
Cores and Skins, 1S89, per lb. 2)1® 3 vS 3"
Peaches-Del. eVp't'd. peeled 88. 15 ®20 15 ®2U
Del., evap't'd, iuipeeled88,,, 8 @10 8 <«'io
N.C. sundrled, peeled 89. ... 8 ®11 81^@11
Ga. sundrled. 1889 6)^@ 9J^ 6«® 9U
Southern, unpeeled, 1889.,,, 2H® 3 2j|® s^
Raspberries— EvapTd 1889 23 ®24 2.i ®24
Sundrled 1889 ®22 @22
Cherrles—lsS9, per lb,, choice,.. 12 @ 12 ®
1889, per lb., good 9 ®li 9 ®j|
Huckleberries— 1889, perlb 12 @I2>^ 12 ®12W
Blackberries— prime, per lb 5 @ 5)t 5 @ 5w
Plums-State, 1889, per lb 8 ® 8)^ 8 ® 8i<
Southern Damson, 1889, p. lb, @7 7 ®
Cat, 1889, perlb 8 ®0 8 ®9
Apricots, Cal., 1889. per lb 12 @14!^ 12 ®15
Potatoes— L. 1., bulk per bbl 1 75®2 00 i 75@2 00
Jersey, per bbl 125®! SO 125@150
State, perbbl 12o@175 1250162
Western, per bbl 1 C0@1 75 1 00®1 62
Sweet Jersey, per bbl 2 50®3 00 2 50®3 UO
Sweet Virginia, perbbl 20O®25O 175S250
Oabbage-L, L, per 100 35O@400 3,'>0c5:400
Cucumber— Florida, per crate 2 00@3 00
Egg plant— Florida, perbbl 30O®5 0O
string Beans— South"u,p, crate, 75®1 25
Cauliflower— per bbl 10O®5 00 10065 00
Onions— Western, red, per bbl,. 125®212 1 (10(S2 12
Eastern, red, perbbl 235@300 200®375
Eastern, white, per bbl 3 00@4 50 3 00@4 50
Yellow, perbbl 150®2O0 175@20O
Squash— L.I.. per bbl 75®1 25 7.5012.')
Celery— L. I., per doz, bunches. . 75® 1 00 75®1 00
Wes'n& State, p. doz. roots. 15® 35 15® 80
Turnips— Russia, Canada, p, bbl. 50® 65 50® 75
Russia. L, 1,, per I>bl 75® 90 75® 90
Received at This Office.
CATALOGLTES.
Geo. Plnney, Evergreen Nurseries, Dover Co., Wis,
Christian Weckesser, Marshaliville, Wayne Co., 0.,
Small Fruit Plants, eti-.
Floral Supply <'nnipaiiy, Biughampton, N, Y., and
Minnciiriolis, tliiui , I'.ulhs, Plants, Seeds,
LouN Rmscli, Frcdcinia, N, Y,, Grape Vines, SmaU
Fruit Plants, etc,
Wm. Paul & Son, Waltham Cross, Herts, England,
Roses.
Reasoner Bros., Manatee, Florida, Tropical Fruits
and Plauls.
T. v. Munson, Denuison, Texas, Small Fruits, etc.,
Parker Early Strawberry,
MISCELLANEOUS,
Insect Life, Vol, II, No. 4. Periodical Bulletin of
DivlsiiiTiof Eutomoidgy, Department of Agricuituj'e. 32.
Ro<)l Knot Disease (if the Peach, (Grange and other
plants in Florida; by J. t . Neal. Published by the De-
partment of Agriculture. ;;.; with 21 plates.
American Pomologlcal Society, .Session of 1889. A, A*.
Crozler, Ames, Iowa, Sec'y, 220,
Transactions of the Indiana Horticultural Society for
1888. C. ,M. Ili.hhs, .S.cictarv. Bridgeport, Ind. 128.
Tra.l.' and Ti.uis|m mat I. .11 between the Dnlted States
and Siiaiili-li Aiii.rl..i, l,y William E, Cray Curtis.
Published by the Gu\eruinent.
Foods and Food Adulterants. BuUetln No. 13 of the
Division of Chemistry. U, S, Department of Agricul-
ture, Part I, Baking Powders, 63.
POPULAR GARDENING
AND FRUIT GROWING.
"ACCUSE yOT XATVRE, SHE BATH DONE HER PART: DO THOV BUT THINE." -MnJIOS.
Vol. V.
j'^nsrrr^E.-s-, isss.
No. 4.
In January.
MJdwintor. but the gracious sfeles are blue,
Save where the beryl-green horizon line
Glistens between the Interlaclngs line
Of dark Elm branches. Soft winds wander through
The tufts of meadow grasses gaunt and few.
And golden-tipped the cloudy Willows shine
Along the far-off brooks. Our hearts devlne.
Old winter sleeps and smiles, as sleepers do.
Dreatnlug of winsome Spring. May all sweet dreams
come true!
The Boston Transcript,
The GrpST Moth, the larva of which feeds on
almost any green leaf it happens to find, has got
a firm foothold in Medford, Mass., and is liable
to spread over the whole country and become
extremely troublesome. It is of the utmost impor-
tance that the eggs are diligently hunted up in
the fall and burned. To destroy the larvae in
spring, all green trees in infected regions should
be thoroughly showered with Paris Green water,
one pound to 150 gallons, soon after the hatching
of the eggs. We hope these preventive measures
will be carried out with care and thoroughness
in Medford and vicinity, and the country spared
a general invasion of this destructive foe.
Work for Stations.— The reports as they
continue to come in all agree that spraying with
arsenical solutions, if properly done, is entirely
effective as a protection against eurculio and cod-
ling moth. But the reports differ are very widely
concerning what is best and safest, Paris green
or London purple. This seems to prove conclu-
sively the lack of uniformity in London purple,
and perhaps also in Paris green. The problem
now before us is to discover a source of supply
of just such a quality of these poisons as is
safe for the fruitgrower to use, and to find out
wherein this differs from a poor article and ana-
lysis might give us a clue. This, it seems, is pro-
per work for the Experiment Stations.
Vegetable Growers' Associatios. The fruit
growers have their national and local societies,
so have the florists. At the many horticultural
meetings we attend we hear of pomological and
floral matters to our heart's content, but vege-
tables and vegetable growing are hardly men-
tioned. The seedsmen have their society, but
they take a different course from the nursery-
men. Instead of seeking intercourse with their
customers, and inviting them to their meetings,
to interest them and instruct them in the noble
art of gardening, as their pomological brethren
do with their customers, they keep the public at
a respectful distance, and only meet among
themselves for the furtherance of their own per-
sonal interests. The nurserymen find that their
course pays them well. Would not the seedsmen
be benefited by adopting a similar course? The
market gardener, and the vegetable grower gen-
erally, is in need of more light, such light as is
shed by free discussions at meetings of people
skilled in this particular branch of horticulture.
adapted Ls that the stock is In a more vigor-
ous and natural condition to build up vig-
orous flowering plants upon, through
having had the benefit of natural growth
out of doors during the summer. This is
quite a different thing from the condition of
the plants In February or March, after many
months of confinement under glass, and
heavy cropping of flowers, and under the
most favorable circumstances far from a
natural state of things. I am of the opinion
that the serious trouble experienced from
Carnation plants damping off just as they
have reached the flowering stage is largely
due to continuous propagation in the spring
from plants impaired in vitality.
. A great advantage for fall struck plants
is that at no period need either the stock
plants or the young ones be subjected to a
high temperature, and they have a much
I longer season of growth. Consequently by
the following autumn they are af much
larger size than spring struck plants and
capable of producing a greater number of
flowers.
In October carnations can be struck with-
out a hot-bed, but the assistance they re-
ceive from mild bottom heat is so great that
it is found to be of advantage to make up a
bed of mild heat. The bed should be located
in a shady position as that of a building.
After the cuttings are rooted we keep them
cool, yet with enough protection to keep out
frost. Ventilation during the winter season
should average abundant, for free airing
conduces to the production of stronger
stocks. Fire heat need be employed only
for the purpose of keeping out frost and
drying up damp. Such plants are ready to
go into the open air early in the spring, and
at once take hold of the soU with vigor.
Fall Instead of Spring Propagation
of Carnations.
CHABLES WALES. MIAMI CO., O.
That very good re.sults may follow on the
widely prevalent custom of early spring
propagation of Carnation plants no one will
deny. Yet after years of experience I am
persuaded that the time referred to is not
the best in which to effect a renewal of the
stock of this important plant.
For several years past I have struck the
cuttings in September or October, and the
outcome has been such as to invariably con-
vince me that the change from spring to
autumn has been a good one. Practically
there is no more difficulty in obtaining a
supply of cuttings in October than in March,
and they strike quite as readily. Indeed a
main advantage I claim for the course
The Sweet and Sour Apple.
WM. F. BASSETT. ATL.VNTIC CO., S. T.
One of our horticultural monthlies allud-
ing to a " Down-East '' Apple, which is said
to be made up of alternate layers of sweet
and sour, remarks that " This Apple turns
up regularly every year in regular sea-ser-
pent style."
Had I never seen such Apples, I might
he inclined to share this implied doubt,
although we see every now and then some-
thing in nature equally strange, but having
raised just such Apples myself, there is, of
course, no room for doubt in my own mind.
Some thirty or more years ago, I had several
trees growing on a recently purchased farm,
which passed for Rhode Island Greenings,
and most of the fruit either was of that
variety or so nearly identical with it as not
to be distinguishable from it; but several
branches on each of these trees bore some
Apples of the size, color and flavor of Green-
ings, and some which were of about half
that size, clear bright yeUow, and of a hon-
eyed sweetness, and also some which had
sections extending from the stem to the
calyx, which were green in color and just
like a Greening in taste and appearance,
while alternate sections were yellow and
very sweet, these last being considerably
depressed, showing not only that they com-
bined the flavor and color of the two in one
Apple, but also the size. How such a fruit
was produced I am not prepared to say. I
have been told that it was done by taking
half of a bud from a sweet Apple tree and
one half of one from a sour Apple tree, put-
ting together and inserting as one bud. I
think there is some probability that it is a
distinct variety, that all of these trees were
budded or grafted from one original tree.
The original proprietor of the lot before
referred to, informed me that the branches
which bore such Apples were from grafts
inserted by an itinerant grafter who fur-
nished his own cions. I think the colors of
some flowers show something analogous to
the products of this Apple from seed. Take
the Dahlia Landy, for instance, the normal
color of which is very dark maroon purple,
striped with Lilac, quite frequently a large
portion of the flowers come of the dark
color, solid, and occasionally one comes all
Lilac, and striped Geraniums also some-
times come in one solid color. I have a
theory to account for such cases, which may
or may not be correct, but I will give it for
what it is worth. These flowers being the
restilt of a cross or mixture of a peculiar
kind, each color running in veins or stripes
through the plant, when a bud is produced
from a portion belonging to either entirely,
a flower of that color is produced, but when
the bud happens to come where the two
colors join we get both colors. In like
manner we would get Apples varyiiig as
described from such a cross between a sweet
and a sour variety. Be this as it may, if
cions be taken from those branches which
produce the sweet and sour specimens they
will be pretty sure to give the three classes
of fruit when they get to bearing age, so
that any one can satisfy themselves by get-
ting cions from such a tree and grafting a
small tree or even a branch of a larger one.
That Bay Window, Rural Home
Comforts and Forestry.
JUDGE SAMCEL MILLER, MONTGOMERY CO., MO.
Last spring I had the good fortune to
purchase twenty large panes of thick glass
two feet square in strong frames, and
thought they would go a little way towards
building a small greenhouse, not having
had such a house for a number of years, my
last burned down. Well towards fall, I
noticed a foundation outside the front door.
Next went up a frame, and in we set my big
glass and a glass roof on top.
The wife and daughters superintended
the planning, and a son done the work. As
I am getting old, and like peace in the
family, I said nothing, and'no warn glad that
I did not interfere with the work. I do not
grow flowering plants to sell, and the affair
is simply for pleasure. A short time ago it
was nearly full of superb Chrysanthemums,
most of which were sent me by Bro. Fuller,
and which have been the admiration of
everyone who comes here or goes past.
These have recently been removed, and now
the thing is chuckfull of such plants as
Primulas, Fuschias, Verbenas, Heliotrope,
Begonias, Geraniums and Dear knows what
else. Many of these are coming into bloom.
There may be room for a few fine Roses
yet which I will pet and give to them. One
of my daughters has it in charge and is as
proud of them as can be. These flowers
with plenty of music in the house ; the
74
POPULAR GARDENING.
January,
cellar well stocked with fruit and vegetables,
what do we care for the gayeties of city life?
not a bit. On pleasant clear days this large
window would get too hot hut the door is
left open, and the heat nearly supplies the
place of fire in the stove. Just now, nine
o'clock December 8, the mercury in the
shade stands 65° and we had it down to 10°
a few weeks ago. Is not this a pretty great
range? But Missouri can beat any place
for that. Sitting in the shade of a 40 feet
Norway Spruce, and a gentle breeze from
fly-
over which a sheet iron damper slides.
When I start my Are, I pull out this damper,
allowing the draft to pass directly up the
chimney from the hole in the furnace.
When the chimney becomes heated, I slide
the damper in, and the draft then pisses
around the entire flue. By this means I
avoid the smoke which I always had before
the flue would get warmed at the back end
sufficient to create a good draft. Those who
have used the ordinary flue know full well
how they smoke iu starting a flre in damp
weather.
Comhiiied BricH and Tile Flue for Heating SmaE Greenhoxise
the west, I find it all perfectly pleasant.
Plenty of books, periodicals and news-
papers around, and some pretty fair paint-
ings hanging on the wall. Now this is a
little of the medley order, but as some write
for others to read who do not write, this
may not be amiss and will give some of the
wealthy readers in the cities and towns an
idea of how an old man is situated in the
wilderness.
I say wilderness; because the forest extends
from the river for miles back, with lofty
cliffs and quite respectable gorges, with
small vales to cultivate. But the hill land
produces as fine fruit as can be found any-
where. I recently bought 80 acres adjoining
me here all in forest, this will be cleared of
all the small underbrush and small trees,
and wherever a place suitable for an ever-
green is left, there it will be planted: several
hundred of which are now in nursery rows
for that purpose.
This much for my idea of forestry, a sub-
ject that at this day demands our serious
attention. My idea of leaving one-third
of the forest stand and cultivate the balance
properly is there can be more grown than if
all is cleared off. Then we have the pro-
tecting influence, besides preventing much
of the rainfall from running off the surface
which should go into the ground.
In this we must change our plans if we
wish to keep our soil on the hills. Dams
and wells in the ravines ; ponds in the
sloping fields, will do much towards help-
ing up a humidity in dry seasons. It is not
only the water that falls on plants that will
keep them fresh, but the evaporation from
stream and lakes. It has been so dry here
some seasons that any distance from water
even the dews were denied us.
Heating Greenhouse by Flue.
W. 8. STANTON, UNION CO., IND.
The brick-flue, a plan of which I here pre-
sent, proves to be a perfect success, and I
like it much better than any flue I ever tried.
It is built on the ground under the propa-
gating bench, and supplies plenty of heat
for my house, 14x40 feet. It is a double re-
turn flue, the lower part brick, three brick
high, laid edgewise, and wide enough for a
brick to reach across the top to cover it. At
the back end I inserted an elbow of 6-inch
sewer tile (unglazed is best), and connected
with this a flue of the tile running back on
top of the brick flue to the throat of the
furnace on which the chimney stands.
From the throat of the furnace up into the
chimney is a hole the size of the sewer tile
Hints on Growing Potatoes.
SUBSCRIBER, BEROEN CO. N. J.
I would advise early planting. Last year
I plowed my ground during a snow storm
in March. The piece had been plowed but
twice in eleven years, the last crop being
fodder Corn and very poor
at that.
I applied no stable ma,
nure. The old sod turned
up very nicely. With a
common plow I made
drills, three feet apart,
and about five inches in
depth. Mapes' special
Potato manure was put freely in the drill
and covered with a little soil. The Potatoes
were planted about one foot apart, and
covered even with the surface. In April I
went through the rows with cultivator,
then gave another application of the ferti-
lizer, scattering it around the plants, and
covering with a little fresh soil. As a
result of this I had large nice Potatoes from
my garden June 22d. The patch was the
admiration of all who saw it, although, at
time of plowing and planting so early, my
neighbors gave me an amused look, as
much as to say — too early, and no show in
that poor soil! The smile was on my side
when I harvested at the rate of over 400
bushels to the acre of Burbanks and Early
Rose. They ripened before the blight, and
were free from rot; fine, large and mealy,
all marketable Potatoes.
History of the Chrysanthemum.
Mr. Joseph Sabine, Secretary of the Horti-
cultural Society (England), in a paper pub-
lished in 1822, tells that single specimens
of the Chinese Chrysanthemums, then
known under the name of " Matricaria In-
dica," have been shown in England even
previous to 1764, and a tolerably correct ac-
count of the variety and beauty of this class
of plants as appearing in China and Japan
was given by Kai'mpher as early as 1812.
Our reduced illustration of a variety of
Chry.santhemum Indicum, p. 77, which was
figured in Mr. Sabine's paper, gives a pretty
good idea of the general habits of the plant.
At this early time the Chrysanthemum had
not yet obtained a permanent foothold iu
Europe, although some varieties were known
in Holland some 300 years ago.
For its re-appearance, as far as its present
existence is concerned, we are indebted to
Mr. Blancard, a merchant of Marseilles,
who in 1789 imported three plants from
China, one with purple, one with white and
one with violet flowers. He lost the two
last; the first lived. This was the " Kiku "
figured in Botanical Magazine, and shown
in our reduced illustration. The surviving
specimen was sent to the Jardiu du Roi at
Paris in 1791. This is the purple variety; it
had been transmitted to England from
France in 1790, and after its arrival there
the changeable white was obtained from it
by cultivation. Between the years 1798 and
1808, inclusive, eight new varieties were im-
ported from China to England in the follow-
ing order: The Rose and Buff, together, in
1798; the Golden Yellow and the Quilled
Yellow, together, in 1802; the Sulphur Yel-
low, at the;iatter end of the same year; the
Spanish Brown, in 1806; and the Quilled
White and Large Lilac, together, in 1808.
Later importations gave the Tasselled White
in 1816 and the Superb White in 1817. In
1819 three more varieties were imported.
Mr. Brooks who brought some of these
varieties from China at that time, some time
after emigrated to America, settling at
Chicago, where he was known as the pioneer
florist of that town, and died in 188.5 or
1886, at the ddvanced age of 93 years. At
the time of his death there was probably no
other man who could claim to have been
acquainted \vith the Chrysanthemum for so
long a period.
A large importation in 1822 was lost on the
way,butgreaterefforts to bring these flowers
to Europe were made with better success
the following year. The autumn of 1825
was the occasion of a brilliant display at
Chiswick. Plants grown in pots to the
number of 700 were flowered in one of the
Society's greenhouses. The exhibits proved
a perfect success, and much interest was
taken in the show. The Society's collection
at this time was already composed of 48 dis-
tinct sorts.
In 1826, Mr. Bernet, a retired infantry
officer of the French Army and a Chrysan-
themum enthusiast, began raising the first
seedlings, which soon came in possession of
a not over-scrupulous nurseryman, who
speedily propagated them for sale, so that
they were widely distributed at home and
abroad between 18:ri0 and 1836. Seedlings
were also now raised in large numbers by
English growers; rapid progress in the de-
velopment of the flower was made, and in
the autumn of 18.50 the Chrysanthemum had
fairly acquired its position as an exhibition
flower. Many shows were now held; the
One iif the Earlier Chrtisanthemums.
fame of the flower spread rapidly, and the
interest in its cultivation became general.
In the year 18.56 Colchester held its first
annual show. The 12 best large-flowered
Chrysanthemums at this date, according to
Mr. Holmes, were Aregina, Beauty, Dupont
de I'Eure, Hermione, Nonpareil, Plutus,
Queen of England, Stafford, Themis, Trilby,
Versailles, Defiance and Vesta.
Mr. Salter in autumn, 1859, claimed to
have 900 named varieties, besides many
iSgo.
POPULAR GARDENING.
75
thousand seedlings of his own and other
growers. In IsilO-IWil Jlr. Fortune imported
new and distinct kinds from Japan, and
these soon worked sonietliing like a revolu-
tion in the Chrysantheninni world. The
incurved flowers liad made theirappearance.
Other importations followed.
Several new raisers in France have of late
sprung up, and we shall probably hear more
of their labors as time goes by. In 1881
an interesting collection was imported
from Japan into England by Messrs
Veitch & Sons, ot Chelsea. Every-
where the enthusiasm of people on
Chrysanthemum matters was now
rapidly increasing, but probably
nowhere more so than in the United
States. This enthusiasm culminated
in the creation of a National Chrysan-
themum Society in 1889. Dr. H. P.
Walcott. of Boston, an<i Mr. John
Thorpe have especially distinguished
themselves in this work, and others
such as Mr. Waterer, Mr. Fewkes,
Mr. Spaidding, and Mr. W. K. Harris
have distributed numbers of new
Chrysanthemus that will long remain
in cultivation.
Niagara County Fruit Notes.
E.xoTic Fruits in Canada. In a
previous issue we have spoken of the
wonderful thrift and productiveness
of the Peach orchards near Lake
Ontario, both on the American and
the Canada sides. We should have
mentioned that the Plum orchards
there commanded our admiration in
scarcely a less degree. The trees in
many cases, especially in smaller
vUlage lots, are crowded closely to-
gether, and are reported to bear
annual and heavy crops of fine
marketable fruit, thus setting at de-
fiance all our theories of the need of
giving plenty of space in order to raise
good fruit. Crowding seems to be
well compatible with succe.ss in Plum
and Cherry culture. The finer foreign
sorts are almost exclusively grown
—the Lombards, the Bradshaws, the
German Prunes, etc., and wherever
these do as well as here, there is little
reason to plant native sorts. Of
course some of them, as well as the
newer Japans, are on trial here and there.
The great secret of success in Plum cul-
ture in these regions is again the same
combination already mentioned of favorable
locality, and thorough clean cultivation.
The trees are highly fed, regularly tended
and pruned, diseased branches cut off as
soon as noticed, all fruit, rotten ones in-
cluded, removed every fall, and the ground
between the trees kept well cultivated and
clean. These conditions, faithfully observed,
would make Plum culture profitable in
many other localities also.
Ai'KicoTS, Nuts. How much of this gen-
eral success in fruit growing is due to the
one item of favorable location, may be well
inferred from the fact that in several of the
gardens in Niagara-on-the-Lake we noticed
while passing large Apricot and English
Walnut trees, apparently in fine health,
and on inquiring were assured of their pro-
ductiveness. In the exhibition hall we also
saw a number of plates with fresh English
Walnuts, which proved that the terrible
frost of May 29th had not killed the whole
crop, although in all probability it had done
some injury to it. Some one in this neigh-
borhood must have great faith in Apricot
culture for profit; at least such is indicated
by a sale of over 800 Russian Apricots
effected by a tree agent in that neighbor-
hood at the usual tree-agent's prices and
profits. The location seems to be a paradise
for tree-agents ; but we fear the buyer of
the Apricot trees, before many years, will
wish he had not trusted quite so implicitly
in the promise of great profits held out by
I the oily-tongued member of the fraternity.
B''iC!S. A complete .surprise was in store
for us on a visit to the garden of Mr. H.
Patt'ord in Niagara. A Fig bush ten feet
high and as many broad, every limb loaded
with young fruit, wasoneof the first objects
and perhaps the most striking one we met
here. There were also a number of other
Kiku, the Chrysanthemum introduced into Europe in 1789.
Fig trees or bushes, but considerably
smaller than the other. Mr. Pafford culti-
vates only two varieties, the White Ischia,
and Brown Turkey, and the large tree is
now about 1.5 years old. As may be ex-
pected the chief difficulty with them is the
wintering over, but Mr. Pafford has always
been entirely successful. He says he treats
the bushes pretty much in same fashion as
he would tender Raspberries. Old and
unwieldy wood is cut out in November, the
young growth properly pruned out and
then bent down upon the ground. Here it
is held in position by small stakes driven in
crosswise. The young fruits or fruit buds
should of course be carefully preserved, in
order to yield a crop in early summer fol-
lowing. The canes are uncovered about
May 1st, and fruit ripens here in succession
from July until October.
Exotic Grapes. Another surprise were
the great trellises covered with Black Ham-
burg, Chasselas de Fontainebleau, Golden
Chasselas.Rose Chasselas, Golden Hamburg,
and other Grapes. It will be remembered
that Mr. Pafford was honored with bronze
medal and diploma for best out-door grown
exotic Grapes exhibited at the Centennial
in Philadelphia, 1876. This is a remarkable
fact, indeed, and it shows that Mr. Pafford
must have thoroughly learned how to grow
this difficult crop. While all around us
here the ordinary Grape crop had been
almost entirely ruined by the May frost, we
found some excellent clusters on the exotic
varieties, but not in the quantities nor per-
fection which Mr. Pa fiord says he has grown
every year with this single exception. Of
course the garden is well protected on every
side by tall buildings or walls,and birds are
kept off by netting. Mildew and rot had
also invaded this territory for the first time
in Mr. Pafford's experience. Sulphur was
used freely, but of course with little notice-
able beneficient results.
"I think the prime requisites in
regard to soil for the Grape," says
Mr. P., "is a dry well-drained sub-
soil, and if not naturally so, must
be made so by thorough under-
draining. This is doubtless well
understood by all Grape cultivators.
I planted the first Black Hamburg
in 1872, and the fruit exhibited by
me in Philadelphia was grown from
it. This vine still remains in full
vigor, and has not in any way de-
teriorated from the effects of the
climate, nor has it this year suffered
from mildew more than the hardy
kinds I have. Have now four of
these vines in good bearing. The
Chasselas de Fontainebleau was
planted in 1880, and will in average
seasons ripen its fruit by the first
u eek in September, the others I
have named about three weeks later.
In regard to manure I have used
bone dust, and sparingly of stable
manure. The vines are closely
pruned in November, then laid
down, and covered with soil about a
foot deep at the extremities of the
new wood; then uncovered in May,
or as soon as the season opens."
Thus far our friend's account. We
have only one other important thing
to add. The whole ground had been
thoroughly trenched to the depth of
two feet or more, the top soil being
thrown into the bottom. The facts
here brought out — wonderful thrift
and health of all plants and shrubs,
freedom heretofore from mildew
and rot, as also from mildew on the
English Gooseberries which we
here saw in all their perfection, etc.
— seems to harmonize remarkably
with the statements and theories
recently given to our readers by Dr. Stay-
man of Leavenworth, Kansas, and we only
call attention to this matter as being in the
nature of a (jua.si-endorsement of his
doctrines.
Notes from the Popular Gardening
Grounds at La Salle-on-the-
Niagara.
KiEFFER ON Quince. In the Munson Pear
orchard, adjoining our grounds, stands a dwarf
Kieffer tree, which appears to be in full health
and youthful vigor, and has borne full crops.
In fact the proprietor, old experienced Pear
grower that he is, speaks quite enthusiastically
of both tree and its fruit. Now we have on
many occasions heard the late Judge Parry, in-
troducer of the Kieffer, tell in most emphatic
language, that Quince sap is poison to the
KieflEer. From this we had inferred, that the
latter would not succeed on Quince root, and wc
beUeve that this doctrine is generally accepted
by fruit growers and nurserymen. But here we
have a fine-growing, healthy and bearing tree
right before our eyes; and everyone who is
acquainted with the Kieffer, knows what a
handsome thing a vigorous Kieffer tree is. Mr.
Munson tells us that his Kieffer Is double- worked,
Louise Bonne de Jersey forming the connecting
link between Kieffer and Quince. We are also
told by Mr. S. D. Willard of Geneva that he has
(luantities of dwarf Kieffers, all doubled-worked,
in fine condition and giving excellent crops, and
establishes the fact that the Kieffer by the inter-
position of some variety congenial to both
Kieffer and Quince, can be grown as a dwarf.
There may be dwart Kieffers grown.elsewhere.
76
POPULAR GARDENING.
January,
There is no more doubt in our mind that a
healthy union can also be formed between
Kieffer and Le Conte on one side, and unconge-
nial sorts among our common Pears, by some
way of double-working. Bartlett, and other
sorts which we recently saw tried on Le Conte
and Kieffer stock, for instance, failed in every
instance, after making a fine growth for one,
or at most two seasons. At the same time we
heard of successes when the oriental sorts were
used for stock, in sections south of us. Double-
working should be tried, for if successful, Le
Conte will give us very superior stocks indeed.
Sweet Corn. In the selection
of the land for our trial patch of
early varieties of Sweet Corn we
have not been remarkably fortun-
ate, the past season. Incessant
rains with insutficient dniinage
kept the ground in the condition
of thin mud for weeks after plant-
ing, so that much of the seed
rotted without sprouting, and
what did grow, had not the proper
chance to come to full develop-
ment. So far as the fault was with
the drainage, it will be remeditd
next season. The work of ditching
and laying tUes is even going on at
this writing. But owing to the
partial failure of crop, we are
hardly justified in expressing a
very decided opinion on the merits
of the various varieties planted,
among them Potter's Excelsior,
Livingston's Golden, Landreth's
Sugar, Durkee's Sweet, Honey
Sweet, Cory, etc. We were favor-
ably impressed with Livingston's
Golden, and shall not fail to have
it on trial again with the others.
Our favorite, the Cory, seems to still hold its own.
If we were to plant Sweet Com for earliest
market, we believe we would select Cory, which
we know to be reliable, having grown it for a
number of years. The stalks are quite dwarf,
allowing close planting, but the ears are remark-
ably large for so early a sort, indeed, the largest
we have ever had at its season. In earliness it is
also the equal of any other eaiiy kind, and its
quality is quite passable. Some of the newer
sorts may be better, or at least fully as good,
but we will have to find this out first, and in the
mean time depend on our Cory.
Carrots. For many years the Danvers has
been our favorite for a general-purpose Carrot.
The Long Orange and Improved Long Orange
are very good, and so proved themselves again
this season, but their extreme length is often
inconvenient in shallower soils, and on account
of the greater labor required in harvesting the
crop. The Danvers undoubtedly gives the same
bulk, but this nearer the surface, as it forms a
compact cone. The new Chantenay, however,
suits us as well as anything we have yet grown.
It is of the shape shown in engraving, blunt at
lower end, always smooth and handsome, ma-
tures early, apparently is of good quality, and
seems to be very productive. On account of its
compactness, and growing so near the surface,
it is even still more easily lifted than Danvers
Carrot. Altogether we have come to regard it
as our best variety for the general purposes of
the home grower.
Underdraining. While our system of under-
drains was laid out a year ago the work of
putting down lateral tiles througbtout the place
has been pushed step by step since. We are now
wanting to get in 1500 tile before winter closes
upon us. The season is wet and unfavorable for
this kind of work, but some progress is being
made. The tile are laid by an experienced
drainer on the terms of 30 cents per rod, he dig-
ging the trenches, but not filling in the soil after
the tile are in place. The discharge of the
system of tile put down a year ago is tree and
satisfactory.
Preparation for Winter. Some portions
of our grounds have lately been plowed and
subsoiled, and the work is being extended at
this writing December 16 as the intermissions
between rains permit. We have been struck by
how a single circumstaoce under certain condi-
tions may defeat some object which but for it
could be carried out. A two-acre triangular
plat of Oats stubble it was deemed best to plow
and subsoil by going around the piece. This
method of plowing requires that the turning be
done on the overturned soil. It worked all right
until the i>iece was one-third plowed when heavy
rains set in, which have since been quite steady,
and this prevented the plowing being finished,
not because the soil could not have been plowed ]
had the furrows ran strictly lengthwise and per-
mitting of turning the team on unplowed land,
but with plowing " round and round " the
triangle, the turning of the team on deeply
plowed and subsoiled land, wet at that, was
about impossible and the job was stopped, for
another more favorable to wet weather work.
The young trees and shrubs which were planted
in the spring, have been given a liberal dressing
CORRY SWEET CORN.
CHANTENAY CARROT.
of well-rotted compost, scattered as far as the
roots are supposed to extend. The young vine-
yard plants and many the vines and things have
been laid down and covered lightly with soil.
Some hardy perennial flowers that were re-
ceived in October were planted out in a cold pit
for the winter here to have the protection of
glass. We think this an excellent plan for hand-
ling hardy flowers, received in the fall. In the
first place we gain on spring work to receive
such in the autumn, secondly by thus setting
them in a sash-covered pit, they receive some
protection and the roots become calloused at
their ends by planting time in the spring which
is an advantage. Then again to have the plants
at our command earlier in the spring than they
could be received from a nursery, admits of early
planting which is always a good thing for this
class of growths.
The entire surface of our new lawns that were
started during the past season were well coated
with fine manure in November. The same treat-
ment was given to the borders of hardy plants
and shrubs. After the manure had been apjilied
to the lawn it was noticed that some coarse
gravel was present in it, the manure having
been shipped to La Salle from the cattle yards at
Buffalo. Our laborer was told that the presence
of the gravel might prove very damaging to
the knives of the mower next season, and he
was set to work with a fine steel rake to pass
over the lawn for no other purpose than to get
out all of this gravel.
Peaches Under Class, Pruning etc.
JOHN ASH. NORFOLK CO., MASS.
To prune a Peach tree properly, consider-
able experience and judgment on the part
of the pruner is necessary to keep a tree
well furnished throughout with fruit-bear-
ing shoots. As much of the old wood as
possible should be cut away to allow space
for laying in this season's growth, and it
should be the aim of the pruner to keep the
young wood as near the base of the shoot
as possible, otherwise the center of the tree
will become bare and unfruitful.
Where trees have made excessively succu-
lent growth, as much of it should be cut
away as can be replaced by fruit-bearing
wood, as these growths rarely produce fruit,
and only serve to draw to themselves the
nourishment which the trees require to
perfect the crop. To prevent their reappear-
ance, attention must be paid to root pruning
and now is the best time of the year to
perform the operation. Dig out a trench
two and a half feet from the stem at each
side of the tree, and from three to four
feet from the stem in front, the depth of
the trench should be from two and a half
to three feet, using a fork when the roots
are reached so as not to bruise them.
In root pruning an old established tree,
where the operation has not been performed
before, it is advisable to cut away the
strongest roots " that extend beyond the
trench" on one side of the tree
only, allowing those on the
other side to remain until the
following season, so as not to
give the tree too great a check.
I] Carefully fork away as much
of the soil from the ball as can
IjL done without injury to the
roots, throwing the soil out
of the trench and replacing it
with a mi.xture of good fibrous
loam, lime rubble and a sprink-
ling of bone meal; in doing
.this, the roots must be raised a
1 little to bring them nearer the
surface, and carefully spread
I'out in layers so as not to en-
In training Peach trees on the
fan system, commence tying
the shoots at the bottom of
tangle the fibres, covering each
layer with soil and pressing it
firmly among the roots. This
course of treatment should be
followed every two years,
the tree, balancing each side as evenly as
possible, to get an equal distribution of sad
in every part of the tree, and allow a space
of about three inches between the shoots
to leave room to lay in the young growth.
COMMENTS BY READERS.
A depa rtment to which all are i7ii'ite(l to send note^ of
ej^erienee and observation concerning topics that re-
cently have been treated on in this Journal. Many
such contributions monthly are welcotne.
Celeries. The Giant Celeries are usually poor
in quality, and when mature, hollow-leaved; they
are also poor keepers. White Plume has behaved
very well with me this year, and retained its
usual self-blanching nature. But in order to
hurry up my May sowing I earthed it up a little
at a time, but full in October, and of coui-se this
lengthed the white leaves and rendered them
very tender. It is now very ripe, that is the
leaves are so brittle they break with very little
handling, and of course this robs it somewhat of
its good flavor. I have always regarded Kala-
mazoo and Golden Heart as being synonymous.
It is splendid in every way, of good" quality and
keeps well. Uoston Market isn't as good for
early, and I always rub off its characteristic
sprouts, but its quality is flue, and it is the best
late keeper of all the green Celeries. But if you
want perfection in quality grow the red Celeries,
no matter whether the variety is New Rose,
London Red, or Major Clarke's Pink. When well
grown and well bleached the heart leaves are not
pink at all. but of a rich yellowish white color,
and you can smell it as well as taste it.
Cucumber Beetle Insectkides. Bravol Ex-
periment faithfully and tell the naked truth.
Zanzibar Balsam from Seed. Yes, it seeds
freely, and the seeds gerniinat* easily. In green-
houses where it is grown it ripens and scatters its
seeds, and self-sown seedlings come up every-
where—under or on the benches, alongside the
pathways, among the pots of other plants, or
elsewhere where you would be likely to find
young Ferns or wild Oxalis come up. I grow it
for summer gardening, and instead of saving
some jilants overwinter I just gather seed and
raise a fresh stock of seedlings in spring.
Christmas Roses. Let me endorse what Mr.
Orpet has got to say about these. But as many
people don't know anything about them let me
add: They are not Roses at all, nor related to
Roses, and they don't grow like Roses or look like
Roses; they belong to the Crowfoot family of
plants, the same to which Anemones belong, and
are called Hellebores, H. niger mazimus is the
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
n
tlnost, and i>ne of the easiest to ^row and least
exiKMisi\e to obtain. Tliey botrin to bloom about
the end ()f No\ finber and eonlinue in Mower tl|
February, and the phiiits iuureaso insi/eand pro-
fusion year after year. True, they are perfectly
hard.\' and will bloom out of di)oi*s in winter-
where winter set^-^ in early, their bh^oniiuj^ time is
delayed till late winter -but if you wish to enjoy
theui thoroujrhly and in their finest fidlness, pro.
tei't Ihein. Oui-s are now (Dee. l™th) white with
buds and llowei-s, in faet. more blossoms than
fttliajre, and this is how we ^row them: They
are ffrowinj? in ordinary ^rden trrouud with full
cxptisure faeinjr northeast, and allowed to grow
at will and ne\-er disturbed. .\ln)ut the end of
October I set a frame over them, and about the
middle of November I set another fi-ame on top
of the first one and cover with sashes. The sasheS
aiv kept on in wet or frosty weather, but re-
moved in fine weather; and the frame is banked
around with leaves and the sashes covered with
straw mats to kee|i out frost. With this protec-
tion, no mattt'r how frosty the weather may be,
1 can get fine fresh flowers, whereas were they
unprotected, handling them in frosty weather
would spoil them. On the approach of spring I
remove frames and wraps, and mulch over the
ground with a two-inch layer of leaf soil, and let
them alone till next fall. And as potted house
plants for a cool room they thrive well and bloom
beautifully.
Interesting Dat0RA. "Bergantia"? Brug-
mansia is probably what was meant.
Lettuce Mildew. I grow winter Lettuce
largely, and have been more troubled in October
anil November than at any other time, but it is
likely to infest them any time from October till
K pril. Hardy varieties, plenty room between the
plants, full light, abundant ventilation, and rigid
cleanliness are my best safeguards, and keeping
the surface soil Ixjtween the plants fretiuentlj'
stirred with a small Excelsiorhoe.— n'nj.Fo/coHer
Preparing for Spring. Now that you have
ail the fall crops put away, tools all housed, com-
mence planning for next seasons crops. Is there
any repairs to be made on ,the tools? Any new
ones to be got? Provide enough new berry crates
to make up the past season's loss. See that the
divisions in the crates are all there, with a surplus
on hand. Look the berry baskets over and see
how many of them will be fit to use again. Some
of your picking trays will very likely be out of
order. If j'ou raise early garden truck be sure
to have good soil stored away out of the reach of
frost, to have it ready for early h(jt-beds. Ex-
amine the sashes and mend where out of repair.
Get the plats ready to transplant seedlings in.
Look up the advertisements in the horticultural
and agricultural papers, and find where you can
get plants, seeds and new imprf)ved tools; not
always at the lowest price but the best in kind
and quality. Look backward at .vour mistakes,
and forward when to mend them. All this and
more can be done now better than in those hur-
rying times of spring. — A. M. N.
Cucumbers and Pickles. Popular Garden-
ing has recently published a number of recipes
for making pickles, but has in every instance
neglected to begin in a way similar to the cele-
bnited recipe how to cook a hare, which starts in
"first catch your hare." To get the Cucumbers
has been the chief obstacle in the waj' of making
pickles this year, and perhaps before you give us
any more pickle recipes you had better tell us
how to manage to save our vines from destruc-
tion by beetles and diseases. It is quite likely
that the failure of the Cucumber crop in many
sections this year will result in using up the
stock so completely that none will beheld over,
and people will get real Pickle-hungry by another
season, so that the demand by factories and
private people will be larger than usual. This
demand must be met, and I shall try to do my
share towards it if I can. And the way I shall
try is b.v planting a little out of the way, and in
a field where 1 think the beetles will not be apt
to look for the plants. I also shall use very
plenty of seed, with but one-half of the usual
dist-ance between the hills, and shall cover up
some of the hills and replant once a week, and
fight the bugs and beetles to the best of my ability
—and if all this is not enough to give me Pickles
in abundance, I shall give up in despair, once
and forever.— Picfcfc Eater, ?iew York.
Mulching Strawberries. Let me add my
mite on the subject. About the middle of Nov-
ember of last year I had the patch thoroughly
cleaned— you know how persistently chickweed
grows in fall— from all weeds, and then I spread
a good heavy dressing of netted manure all over
the patch, planf.s and all . Early in December as
soon as \vc had a stiff fro<v,e, 1 spread some salt
thatch thinly o\cr the bed, to be left in this way
till spring. Nothing; can be better than this
thatch, because it does not mat down and rot
upon the Strawberry plants; wind does not blow
it aiiout, and tm seeds from it can grow.
Stewed Cei.kkv. This reminds me of the first
ilish of it T ever tasfed. It was in November, 'K3,
when on a visit to Knglanci. In company with
CHRYSANTHEMUM INDICUM. See page ti.
Mr. Robinson, the editor of the London Oarden
I spent a day among the great gardens of Lan-
cashire. He was high in praise of stewed Celery,
and astonished when I told him I never tasted it.
We got into Manchester about 8 in the evening
and, late though it was, on reaching the hotel he
ordered that a dish of stewed Celery be cooked
for me. I then learned that we did not have all
the good things of this life on this side of the
Atlantic, and ever since that time stewed Celery
has been a common and favorite dish upon our
table.— vrm. Falconer.
The Leconte Pear. I am surprised that you
eastern horticulturists do not say more in regard
to this noble Pear. It is a fine, melting, sweet
Pear, larger than the Kieffer, a better bearer and
thriftier grower. I have an orchard of 130 trees
six years old, raised from cuttings Some of the
trees will have from one to two bushels of fruit
next season if not injured by frost. They ripen
about the 20th of September and may be picked
by the 15th. I notice they brought $4 .'lO per bbl.
as long as any came to St. Louis market this fall.
All eastern writers that say anything about this
Pear seem to hit it a kick. Now if my trees hold
out against blight in future I don't want any
better investment in fruit trees than this Pear.—
Wm. M. Jeffrey, Ills.
The Mariansa Pluji. I see this gets a slight
hit by your answer to inquiry 1,491. I think you
had better advise him to bud ten trees of Peach
on Marianua roots for one on Peach. I am con-
fident that the Peach, .Vpricot and Plum in future
will be budded on Marianna stock wherever they
are tested. I am satisfied the Peach will last a
lifetime if budded on such roots; the borer will
not trouble them. There are thousands of such
trees budded on Marianna rfiot now growing in
the west.— If m. M. Jeffrey, 7/(,s.
Railroad Station Gardening. As this sub-
ject has already been favorably noticed in Popu-
L,\R G.iRDENiNG, let me add a few points regard-
ing the management of the groundsat our station.
The lawn is on the south and cast sides of the
building, consists of about one-sixth of an acre
is nicely graded and covered with a good sod. In
the bank facing the track the name of the station
is cut in large letters, which in the fall are planted
in TuUps, and in the summer filled with red and
golden Alternanteras. Upon the upper edge of
the bank are planted Roses, Gladiolus, Tuberoses,
etc. In the main part of the lawn there are beds
of Cannas, Geraniums, Ornamental Beets and
Coleus; and some large specimens of Caladiums
and Anifirphophallus occupy conspicuous places.
There are also numerous \ines planted about the
buildings, as screens and showy climbers. The
lawn mower is in use often. It is evident that
this oasis along the iron highway breaks the
monotony of travel to many a passenger in a
pleasing manner, as is evinced by the commend-
able remarks made while the trains stop. It is
also a pleasant retreat for persons waiting for
the trains, and the general public can receive
much benefit by studying the various plants.
The beauty of these grounds depends much
upon the ticket agent who cares for them and
fully understands the art of gardening.— Jo/iii
F. Rui>p, Cumberland Co., Pa.
London Purple Once More. Our experience
with London Purple has been that the English
varieties of Plums will stand a stronger solution
than any other fruit foliage. In Insect Life, pub-
lished by Division of Entomology, U. S. Depart-
ment of Agriculture, may be found an account
of damage done to my young two-year old
orchard by the May beetle. We have in this
orchard some 760 Plum trees of the following
varieties: German Plum, Shopshire Damson,
Gen. Lee, Green Gage, Gen. Hand, White Egg,
Wild Goose and Weaver. In three nights the
May ^beetle almost defoliated the entire orchard
of Plums (English varieties only I, also Gov. Wood,
Cherry, and Hansel Raspberry. We telegraphed
Assistant Entomologist L. A. Howard, who
immediately sent Mr. C. L. Bartlett with a Nixon
Little Giant force pump, and on next day. May
10, we sprayed about 1300 trees, including Plum,
Cherry, Apple, Apricots, Peach, English Walnut
and Raspberry. We used 60 gallons of water and
six ounces of London purple, first dissolving the
London purple in one gallon of water until every
particle was dissolved, then pouring the London
purple in the tank and adding the water. We
put the pump in our two-horse wagon and
sprayed two rows on each side, the writer driWng
and doing the pumping, while two little boys 10
and 1« years old held the nozzles. The work was
done in four hours. The May beetle ceased to
trouble anything that was sprayed. The trees at
that time had made about one-third of their
summer's growth. The spraying did not stop the
growth, but the Peach trees lost all foliage within
three weeks, also all bloom buds on the later
growth. The bloom spurs and buds also dropped
otf of Gov. Wood Cherry in four weeks; hardly
a leaf was left on the Cherry, Apricot and Peach.
I do not think the spraying affected the growth
in the least, for some of the Peaches that dropped
the most foliage made the greatest growth. Prom
my experience I would estimate the strength of
the poisonous liquid that the different trees and
shrubs can endure when in bloom without injury
as follows: Plums, English varieties, one pound
of London purple to 160 gallons of water; Apples
and Raspberries, one pound to 160 gallons; Apri-
cots, one pound to 200 gallons; Cherry, one pound
to iioO gallons; Peaches, one puml to ;i)0 ga lions.
My first experience with arsenical poisons was
spraying with Paris green for Plum curculio
during summer of 1880. I have discarded Paris
green and shall always use London purple here-
after.—J. Luther Bowers, Va.
Grape Culture. The communications of E.
P. Powell and Dr. Stayman correspond so well
with my own experience that I wish a good hand-
shaking could be had with each just now. Those
who have the Downing Grape vines should be
sure to protect them well, as I see by the record
that it is half vinifera, if not three-fourths. This
Grape will be worth sacking and a canopy over
it. The mildew of foliage is so little trouble here,
however, that a roof is scarcely needed if we only
sack the bunches.
Peach and Plum Rot. The article on this
subject interests me greatly, for rot is a drawback
with us here. Past season out of what should
have given us 20 bushels of fine early Peaches we
did not sell a peck, and could hardly get enough
perfect fruit for ourselves and the friends visit-
ing us. The late ones dofie better. Plums suffered
less, except where the curculio got in its work,
which was nearly on all of them One tree of
Lombard produced a fine crop, however. Of late
Peaches the Niq, a cling, is the latest we have
there still being some on hand at this date, Dec.
7th, sound and plump. Were it not for the occa-
sional hard winters that kUl our Peach buds (for
they seldom freeze when in blossom) we could
raise Peaches here to perfection. Yellows we
know nothing of, and trees live to a good age and
large size. I cut up the butt of one recently ten
inches in diameter at the ground.—*'. MiUer.
78
POPULAR GARDENING.
January,
Notes of An Illinois Fruit Enterprise
JOBS M. STAHL, ADAMS CO., IIX.
One of the largest fruit enterprises in this
country is located near Xauvoo, 111., and
has been worked up by Mr. Will Stahl, of
Quincy. Mr. Stahl has been growing small
fruits near Quincy for some years; has also
done a commission business in fruits for ten
or twelve years. Several years ago he be-
came convinced of the unusual advantages
offered by the soil near Xauvoo, and began
fruit raising there on a small scale. He has
increased his business there until he has
now 300 acres in small fruits, while he super-
vises somewhat the cultivation of 500 acres
more in small fruits, and handles the pro-
duct. Of the total of 800 acres, about 500
acres are in Grapes and about 300 acres in
Strawberries, Raspberries and Blackberries.
Grapes. Of the Grapes grown, the Con-
cord is the principal variety. While its
quality is not of the best at Nauvoo, as else-
where, it still has more to offer the general
grower for shipment than any other variety.
Among other varieties grown are the Ives,
a good early Grape, though sour, but being
replaced by the Worden, Champion, Moore's
Early and Niagara. Xearly all the new
vineyards are of the four varieties last
named and the Pocklington. Mr. Stahl
puts a high estimate on the Worden, in his
o^vn words, " it is a rattling good Grape."
Raspberries. Of Blackcap Raspberries,
Mr. S. has 60 acres in the Souhegan. This
is the only black cap variety he grows— has
discarded all others he has tried, and he has
tried many. The trouble with the Gregg
was that it winter-killed. He does not grow
the Ohio because it ripens too late; he wants
only a very early variety.
Of the reds grown, the Turner, Brandy-
wine, Marlboro and Cuthbert are the prin-
cipal varieties. All are Xo. 1 bearers. The
Turner is excellent for home market, but
too soft to ship well. Brandy wine, Marlboro
and Cuthbert are good shippers. The Cuth-
bert is a little late, but nevertheless profita-
ble; it is apt to winter-kill a little. The
Brandywine is very profitable. All are of
good quality.
Blackberries. The five principal varie-
ties of Blackberry grown are the Snyder,
Early Harvest, Ancient Britain, Taylor's
Prolific and Stone's Hardy. The Early
Harvest is a good early berry, but must be
laid down and covered for the winter All the
others will go through the winter fairly well.
Snyder is quite hardy. All are productive.
Snyder is now grown more than any other.
Strawberries. Twenty-two varieties of
Strawberry are grown. The most import-
ant are I..ady Rusk, Jessie, Warfield, Cres-
cent, James Vick, Capt. Jack, Miner';^ Pro-
lific, Cumberland, Bubach, Haverland,
Monmouth, Bidwell, Downing, Wilson,
Parry, Gandy, .Sharpless and Sucker State.
Jessie does fairly well. James Vick and
Capt. Jack are superior for fertilizing; yet
better for this purpose is the Bidwell. which
is a very strong bloomer. The Bidwell
made a fine crop of fruit in '88, but did little
good this year. The Crescent does well with
good culture. The Parry did exceedingly
well this year; some of the berries beat its
pictures. Sharpless, Bubach, Warfield and
Haverland are excellent.
Mr. Stahl usually tests a new variety as
soon as brought out, and therefore his re-
taining any variety, as he has those I have
mentioned as among those he is growing,
is evidence that he has found it possessed of
several good qualities when grown at Xau-
voo. Another thing, Mr. S. gives extra good
cultivation, and thinks varieties are often
condemned by those who have not given
them the cultiu-e that would have brought
out their good qualities.
The Lady Rusk is a seedling which he has
grown for four years, and he is so well
pleased with it that he will in future grow
it almost altogether. It is a very vigorous
grower — surpassed by none in this particu-
lar; withstands heat and drouth to perfec-
tion; it does not rust, the berry is larger
than the Crescent, ripens several days earlier
and more than any other is uniform
throughout the entire picking season. It is
a splendid shipper — has reached Winnipeg
from X^auvoo in good condition. It is pis-
tillate.
This year Mr. Stahl shipped 300,000 baskets
of Grapes, 30 cars of Strawberries, 8,000
cases of Raspberries, etc., of course not all
of his own growing. His experience as a
shipper gives him an advantage in testing
fruits for distant markets.
Virginia Fruit Notes.
J. LUTHER BOWERS, FAIRFAX CO., VA.
Plums. — The Weaver has not given me
satisfaction. I have about thirty trees that
are from three to four years old, on Peach
root. They have made an enormous growth,
some of the trees now being three to three
and one-half inches in diameter at the
ground, and ten to twelve feet high. They
set the most bloom of anything in the line of
fruit-trees I ever saw; but the bloom has
never yet expanded to an open flower, but
drops off. I am getting disgusted with it,
and if it does not do better next season, I
shall top-graft the trees to French Prunes.
The Wild Goose is the Plum for this local-
ity, a heavy annual bearer, always smooth
and perfect, fine for shipping, fine for can-
ning, and brings good prices. The crop of
the four trees eight years old, one season
sold for *i0.00. I have had trees to bear
when only two years old. Gen. Lee is a
Virginia seedling from Bradshaw, very
early, ripening here the last of August. It
is similar to the Niagara in shape and color.
ThejGerman Prune, Gen. Hand, Shropshire
Damson, Yellow Egg, Green Gage, and sim-
ilar kinds of the European type are badly
afflicted with curculio, but if sprayed at pro-
per time and proper intervals a large crop
can be grown. I am testing twenty new
varieties of Plums. I think the Satsuma
will prove hardy here and be a valuable
Plum for this section.
Apricots. — An annual crop can be ex-
pected here only of trees that stand very
much exposed to the north or east of north,
or on north or northeast side of building.
One of my trees in a southeast exposure,
bore well this year. The curculio affects
Apricots badly here, and spraying is neces-
sary to save the crop. Seedlings will do 50
per cent better than budded stock. Am
testing quite a number of named Russian
Appricots, and hope to have fruit on some
of them next year.
English Walnuts.— My trees are seed-
lings from large nuts, and under certain
cLrcumstances are hardy. If a dry Septem-
ber follows upon a wet summer, the trees
will winter all right, but when a wet and
warm September follows after a dry sum-
mer, the ends of branches are sometimes
winter-killed. My trees are all young.
There are, however, some fine trees in this
country that bear annual crops, some years
very heavy, other years light. If young
trees come safely through until they get two
to three inches in diameter at the ground,
they are hardy, and even more hardy on a
hill or hillside than on low or bottom land.
I put in a lot of grafts on Black Walnut
last spring. They made a fine growth; one
graft grew four and one-half feet with seven
side branches, and is one and one-half inches
in diameter just above union. I think by
top-grafting the Black Walnut with English
Walnut the latter will be entirely hardy.
Evaporating Prunes.— It seems strange
to me that we have no evaporated Prunes
here in the east. I am planting largely of
Prunes for the purpose of evaporating, and
should like to hear from some Xew York
man on the subject of Prunes.
I spent a portion of three years on the
large fruit farm of John Bidwell, Chico,
Butte Co., California, where upwards of 100
tons of Plums and Prunes are dried and
evaporated every year. The evaporated
Prunes sell better than the sun-dried.
Planting an Orchard.
-v. r. REED, CL-MBERLAND COrNn", ME.
Although not claiming to be an experi-
enced orchardist, I have observed some
things that I think would be of value to
me it I should plant an orchard. In the
first place, I should put the trees into plow-
ed ground. I should keep the ground plowed
several years, till the trees came into bear-
ing, cropping it all the while lightly, but
putting in each year, more plant nourish-
ment than I take out, thus laying in a
reserve fund for the support of the trees in
years to come.
Then I would lay it down to grass, but
keep the grass from growing for several
feet around each tree by mulching quite
heavily each year after haying, with leaf
mould, compost, etc. In the meantime I
would keep the ground well up with liberal
top dressings. Thus managed, I do not see
the necessity of plowing much if any in the
orchard, after it has come to maturity, and
it is certainly not convenient to do so
among low trees such as I believe in, and
thus managed, we .shall find that no crop
comes easier into our hands than the Apple
crop. An orchard where both the land and
the trees give a good showing, even though
the Apples bring but -*1 per barrel, pays a
per cent, on the capital invested that any
merchant would be proud of in his business.
"WTiat way is there to earn a dollar any
quicker or easier in horticulture, than to
pick a barrel of Apples from a low tree?
Fertilzers for Fruit Trees.
The science of agricultural chemistry
leaves us yet in the dark about many im-
portant points concerning the rational and
economical feeding of our crops. It has
failed, thus far, to furnish us definite, abso-
lutely reliable data upon which we might
base our calculations, or map out a certain
line of action with any kind of assurance
that we are right.
The different kinds of fruit, for instance,
quite likely require different elements of
plant-food, or these in different proportions.
But we are as yet unable to say, this tree
needs so many pounds of nitrogen, so many
of potash, and so many of phosphoric acid,
of which the particular soil furnishes so
many of this, and so many of that, leaving
just so much to be supplied by applications
of fertilizers. And probably it will be a
good many years before we will reach this
state of absohite knowledge, if ever.
We know, says Mr. W. J. Green in Ohio
Farmer, that Pears thrive best on heavy
soil, and Quince trees require a damp soil,
but we give little consideration to the ele-
ments in the various kinds of soils. The
best that we can do is to supply our trees
with about what we think is required,
basing our judgment upon experience.
Fruit trees require at least a dozen different
chemical elements, but nearly all these
elements are present in most soils in suffi-
cient quantities. There are only three
elements, nitrogen, potassium and phos-
phorus, that we are likely to be called upon
to supply to any ordinary soil.
Stable manure, as everyone knows, con-
tains the elements named, but it is not
always suitable lor fruit trees. It may safe-
ly be used on thin poor soils, and upon old
Apple orchards. In such cases there is
nothing better, but where there is danger of
i89o-
POPULAR GARDENING.
79
inducinK too strong a growth of wood, it
should not be applied. It is not reiiuired
for any kind of fruit tree on rich, or even on
good soil, before the tree conies into bearing.
Peach and tMierry trees forced by manure
will not endure our winters; while Pear
trees suffer from the same cause, and blight
as well, and Apple trees make a vigorous
growth but produce sparingly. The princi-
pal cause of this action of manure is the
nitrogen which it contains.
Nitrogen causes growth and tends to re-
tard fruitfulness, hence any substance con-
taining it should be avoided except in the
cases indicated. Very often it is just what
is required, and this may be known when
the growth is weak, except in cases where
disease is present. If a tree is healthy yet
does not grow thrifty, it will probably be
benefited by an application of nitrogen, but
as long as there is a good healthy growth
that element is not required.
As stated before, nitrogeu is found in
manure, but it may be had quite cheaply in
other forms, or combinations. Nitrate of
soda and sulphate of ammonia are common
forms. It is present in dried blood, hair,
hides, bones, etc. It is from some of these
sources that fertilizer manufacturers obtain
nitrogen. Fertilizers containing nitrogen
cost more than those that do not, hence such
fertilizers are needlessly expensive for fruit
trees, as well as harmful, except in rare cases.
Bones contain nitrogen, but not in such
quantities as to unduly stimulate growth.
They also contain phosphorus in the form of
phosphate of lime, which is required by
fruit trees, particularly after they reach bear-
ing age, as phophorous is an important
element in seed production. On thin soils
ground bone may be applied when the trees
are planted at the rate of .500 lbs. per acre to
good advantage. Ordinarily, however, it is
just as well to wait until the trees begin to
bear before using the bone meal. At this
period it is well to apply pota,sh also. This
may be had quite cheaply in the form of
sulphate and muriate of potash and kainit.
Wood ashes are better than either of the
above, as they contain phosphorus as well as
potash. Ashes and bones furnish the ele-
ments that are most useful to fruit trees,
and except in rare cases, there is no need
of applying anything else. Unles the soil
is very poor, the bone meal will supply suffi-
cient nitrogen, and yet not enough to cause
excessive growth.
Ground bone is particularly recommended
for smallfruit plants, Grape vines and bear-
ing Apple orchards, and may be applied at
the rate of 300 to 30O lbs. per acre annually,
the amount depending upon the apparent
needs of the plant or trees. Peach, Cherry
and Pear trees will bear very little forcing,
hence bone should be used more sparingly
on them, if at all. Unleached wood ashes
are better for these trees, as they furnish all
that is required with nitrogen omitted. A
by-product in iron manufacture, known as
basic slag, contains considerable quantities
of phosphorus. Inasmuch as iron is thought
to be useful to fruit trees, this may prove
to be a valuable fertilizer. Experiments are
needed in this direction, although there can
be little doubt as to the availability of the
phosphorus in the substance named. It is
quite cheap and a safe thing to try.
Superphosphate is not, or not as a general
thing, suitable for fruit trees, as its action
is not sufficiently long continued. It may
do very well in certain cases where quick
returns are desired, but if used on fruits of
any kind it better be applied to Strawberries
or some of the small fruits. High-priced
chemical fertilizers that are manufactured
for the purpose of giving immediate and
striking results on vegetables and grains,
are unsuitable for most fruit-bearing plants.
Such fertilizers stimulate a succulent un-
healthy growth, but are not lasting enough,
besides being too costly for the purpose. It
is better to study the needs of the soil, ac-
cording to the principles above indicated
and apply such .substances as seem to be
needed. In order to define these principles
more clearly the following summary is given.
1. On rich soils no nitrogen is required for
fruit trees, and to apply fertilizers contain-
ing nitrogen in such cases is not only waste-
ful but harmful.
2. When the soil is naturally poor or has
become exhausted, as shown by weak
growth, stable manure, nitrate of soda, sul-
phate of ammonia or ground bone may be
tried and useful.
.S. On Apple orchards that have borne
several crops, wood ashes (leached or un-
leached), ground bone, or basic slag should
be applied annually.
4. On Peach, Cherry and Pear trees use
fertilizers containing phosphoric acid and
potash, but little or no nitrogen. Enough
of the latter element will usually be found
in ground bone. Stable manure, blood, etc.,
induce too strong growth.
The Shiawassee Apple.
T. T. LYO-S, VAN BrRE.S CO., MICH.
The American Rural Home, in speaking
of the Michigan Apples received at Roches-
ter, this season, commends the specimens of
Eameuse, especially for their size, high
color and freedom from fungus.
This is a difficulty to which, in Michigan,
as elsewhere, this variety is peculiarly liable;
although, upon young trees, and, in occa-
sional favorable years, upon older ones, the
fruit is often fair and beautiful.
We only refer to the matter here, to ex-
press surprise at the persistency with which
even intelligent and experienced fruit grow-
ers and fruit lovers seem to adhere to an un-
necessary and unprofitable^preference, when
once acquired.
We refer to the fact that, for thirty or
forty years past, there has been before the
public a supposed seedling of Fameuse, like
it in color, texture, flavor, aroma and white-
ness, as well as in juiciness and tenderness
of flesh; and even excelling it in size, as it
does in some of the other particulars named.
And yet, probably for the reason that it has
not been heralded, as have so many more
recent novelties of far less real value, its
merits seem only to be appreciated by a for-
tunate few, who have, by accident or other-
wise, been induced to give it a trial; and
have tlius learned its actual value.
P'ifteen or sixteen years ago, the writer,
as chairman of a committee to frame a list
of fruits to be recommended by the Michi-
gan State Pomological Society for general
cultivation in the state, I wished to secure
the insertion of the Shiawassee, instead of
its supposed parent, the Fameuse, and stated
that it not only possessed all the peculiar
and desirable qualities of its supposed
parent, but also were of somewhat larger
size, and nearly free from the liability to
scab and crack, which proves so serious a
drawback upon the value of Fameuse.
In the face of this statement, and with the
full knowledge of this serious fault of the
Fameuse, the society refused to accept the
reported list, save upon the insertion of the
latter; and, even down to the present, the
Shiawassee has been only occasionally
planted; although when shown at exhibi-
tions, its great beauty and fine quality com-
mand special attention. This tardiness of
recognition is the more surprising, from the
tact that, in tree as in fruit, and in pro-
ductiveness, as in size, the Shiawassee is not
a whit the inferior of the Fameuse.
To our apprehension therefore the case
may be assumed to be a parallel with that
of Beecher's dog Noble; and to indicate
strongly that even intelligent fruit growers
need to have their appreciative faculties
stirred by the persuasions of the oily-tongued
tree peddler.
What I Know About Beans.
E. P. POWELL, ONEID.\ CO., N. Y.
It is now full ten years since I planted the
Black Wax Bean, one of the Southern Cow
Peas — which variety I cannot now recall—
the small yellow Field Bean, a few Limas,
the Yard long for pickling, and the Refugee.
I am not certain, but there were also about
my garden some of the Scarlet and some of
the White-Flowering Beans, grown more
for beauty than use. When harvest time
came there were a few Beans remarkable
for nothing but their mixed colors, but they
pleased my little Fritz, and we picked them
out and sorted them.
The next year these were planted and
now that attention had been drawn to cross-
ing Beans, I began to make careful selections
of any variations that occurred. If pods
appeared out of the normal, strings were
tied about them and the seed saved for plant-
ing. There were no marked results for these
years, except a large number of very pretty
or fancy Beans, some of them varying decid-
edly in form from what I had planted. I
could only show about twenty very curiously
striped and spotted rich colored sorts.
Systematic Selections. Nowbeganadis-
tinct plan. I proposed to secure white pods
of a large size, with white Beans inside, or
Beans that would cook white. Black Beans,
except for soup, are worthless and were
rejected. The result was a large number of
sorts with white pods of many different
shades, pink or silver or golden, all very
beautiful. But I had broken the barriers
of varieties, and even of species, for the blood
of the Cow Pea was manifest in my products;
and it was not easy to quiet the disturbed
spirits. Apparently one variety, when plant-
ed, would come out in the fall three or four-
fold. The tendency to sprout could not be
controlled.
All this while I used no artificial means
for crossing, leaving that to the insects, and
confining my own efforts entirely to selec-
tion. The difficulty in managing systematic
crossing of Beans is great, and I have seen
no reason troubling myself about it. The
chief act is in selecting valuable strains and
fixing them. I had already, in the course of
five or six years, originated several hundred
sorts, varying more or le.ss, and most of
them had been repeated. Still I could see
no sign of the Lima. Evidently old long-
est ablished variations, in the Bean family
were hard to break up, as old habits are,
while modern strains sported about at ran-
dom. But at last I found, about five years
ago, a very evident touch of the Lima blood
in a very prolific pole Bean. It was some-
what flattened and in quality was excellent.
Its marked characteristic was, however,
prolific bearing. Meanwhile I had discarded
Black Wax and did my best to eradicate
every trace of it; in its place introducing the
Golden Wax. Several reappearances, in
different modifications, occurred of the
Yard-long or Pickle Bean and it was clear
that for increased size of pod I was to rely
largely on that sort. The white pods each
year, being selected in preference to others,
began to show some superbly beautiful
results. The Refugee reappeared only in
bush sorts and gave only a variation of col-
or. But of these there was a rich purple red
sprout which, for its exquisite color, its
immense crops and fine style of growth, I
fixed and retained.
Curious Novelties. Four years ago, while
passing through my experiment grounds
with a friend, we came upon the first
great surprise. It was a pole covered with
pods of enormous size, one of which I meas-
ured. It was eight inches long and three
8o
POPULAR GARDENING.
January,
inches in circumference. I now became
much more interested In the Bean field.
That year turned me out a dozen sorts worth
preserving. More than all there were traces
of the Lima in the several hills. The pods
were not large enough, and the Beans were
not half as large as they should be to pro-
nounce the crosses valuable directly, but
they were prolific. The chief trouble with
the I.,ima Bean is, it does not yield as heavily
as some others, and it is late. If
I could get a Lima cross with
white pod and large Bean and
very prolific, I said I should be
well paid for my troiible.
Meanwhile rust had become a
great curse to Bean growers,
and I found that certain crosses
were infected. Now I began
rigid elimination of any touch
of this infection. If a hill
showed rust at all, it was
promptly pulled up and de-
stroyed. So it came about that
my fields in the worst years
showed exquisite silver and
golden pods absolutely free from
black spots or mildew. My
aim now included (1) rustproof;
(2) white pods in the main; (3)
large white or light-colored
Beans; (4) prolific bearing. In
some respects I should have
perferred bush Beans, only
that so far no bush Beans will bear the
whole season through; whereas pole Beans
can be relied on late as November if the
frost holds off. Indeed, I think some sorts
would bear a full year if not frozen.
Three years ago the results began to be so
extraordinary that I took great pains in
sorting, selecting and labelling, and made
some slight report of them in the horticul-
tural papers. I^ast year the crop was a great
burden to me because it necessitates so
much care in making all summer memoran-
dums, and in labelling and bagging the sorts
in autumn. If I had had an enthusiastic
helper who could do much of the mechanical
work it would have been easier. But now I
was satisfied that my work must be carried
through at all cost, as clearly I was revolu-
tionizing Bean ciilture. There was a show
of magnificient new sorts loading down my
poles. Pods appeared nine and ten inches
long and three inches around; some green,
some yellow, some silver white, and with
eight to ten Beans in each.
But most interesting was nature's efl'ort
in two opposite directions: (1) A struggle
to create Beans, Beans in quantity; (3) to
create pods at the expense of Beans. I find
that in one line I was breeding all for pod,
that in the White Wax pods, crossed with
the Yard-long, and gave me pods that could
be sliced like an Apple and one inch in diam-
eter; solid all through. The shape of these
pods was much thicker through sideways
than from front to back — a curious-looking
affair. Apparently full of Beans they were
in reality solid shell or pod, and most
delicious for the table. Some of these sorts
were green, and others white. When ripen-
ing, the tendency was still so strongly to pod
that the backs would burst open along the
rear, and the Beans came out. The process
evidently might be carried so far, in breed-
ing for pod, as to abort seed altogether, and
so the experiment would end for lack of seed
to propagate results. But I have some truly
grand sorts of these solid pods, "Break-
backs" and "Broad-backs" and "Ripped
Breeches " my boys call them.
On the other hand appeared other sorts,
all Beans and no pods; pods ten inches long
with ten fine large Beans. A pole loaded
down with these pods is truly a fine sight.
The pure white, in some cases, yields to a
most lovely striation. Delicate pink stripes
appear as if put on by hand work. This is
evidently a touch of the blood of the Horti-
cultural Beau, which I neglected to say I had
among my original sorts. These varieties
also vary from the round style of pod to the
flat style, and as a rule there is a willful
tendency in the hills to sport toward these
two styles. These all make a good string or
snap Bean, but are not as fine for this pur-
pose as the all-pod sorts. I am breeding
TOOLS FOR THE ORCHARD. See oitpoxit e page .
now in both directions and do not consider
the possibilities any way near determined.
As for the Ijima crosses last year they were
quite decided and I planted them all by
themselves in 1889. The result is a tendency
to improved pods and larger Beans. It will
take three or four years yet to carry out this
line and see what can be made of it, but I
have one cross which is white-podded. The
pod is rich, clear golden white and the Bean
delicious for the table. When green it is a
good, large Lima, but when dry is not yet a
success. I consider it a hopeful line of work.
A strain of Horticultural or Cranberry
appeared all along. Three years ago some
handsome Beans were saved. I^ast year only
one of these seemed specially valuable.
This year the strain was not quite firm, but
gave me one six-inch pod. full of Beans,
and superbly striated; with another much
like the old sort, but deeper, richer red in
color. I think there is here a first-rate open-
ing, besides the sorts already produced.
In the struggle of nature to get at special
ends she has turned every way possible.
There is a strain which I have carefully pre-
served, which far more resembles a trellis
of Peas than of Beans. The pods are about
the size of a Champion of England Pea and
literally cover the vines. The color is white
or delicately striated. Ijack of room to plant
sprouts separately has caused them to vary
somewhat. The Bean, in some, is pure
white, but in others is lemon yellow. The
pod is as thin as a leaf, and the Beans are
packed so that the ends are flattered as with
Peas. The strain is a very choice for home
use. The quality is very fine for table, but
for string it has little value. I have named
it Silver Beauty.
(To be Continued.)
CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
SEVENTH PAPER.
The Cause of Grape Kot.
DR. J. STATMAN, LEAVENWORTH, KANSAS.
The parasitic fungus can hardly be con-
sidered the primary caxise of gi-ape rot , neither
is it in the soil or atmosphere; for the same
variety of Grapes has been grown free from
rot, while under the same conditions others
have rotted in the same vineyard by their
side at the same time.
That the manner of culture is the cause
appears to me evident from the fact that
the Cataba was healthy and free from rot at
Cincinnati, Ohio in its first introduction
there, and also the Concord in this country
up to 1873. It will not do to claim that
spores of the Grape fungus did not then
exist, or that the climate has changed, unless
it can first be shown that the same culture
will not produce the same results, and re-
store the Grape to its original freedom from
rot and disease. We can well remember the
time, some sixty years ago, when
the European Grape was grown
here where now the Concord
cannot de growTi with the same
degree of succes. That this
change has been brought about
by us may be seen by compar-
ing the two different systems of
culture. The first and success-
ful one was the European, the
latter and unsuccessful may
be called the American system.
The first was based upon many
periods of successful experience
reduced to a system in harmony
to the health and longevity of
the vine and the production of
the best fruit. It knew no slip-
shod method or rapid ways to
success, neither did it employ
labor that lead to such a result.
It taught that haste made waste.
It studied the character of the
soil, location and the vine, and
adopted these conditions as far as is practical
to produce the best results. It taught that
deep trenching, deep enriching and deep
planting produced deep rooting, slower
growth and more healthy and enduring
vines, also that deep rooting is antagonistic
to shallow rooting, and cannot exist on the
same vine at the same time. It further
taught that long pruning and heavy loading
soon leads to decay; that vines should bear
only in proportion to their age and strength;
that plants are not generally in full bearing
until the sixth year; and that then about 1.5
pounds of fruit is a sufficient amount for a
strong vine to bear from year to year and
remain healthy; that deep and thorough
tillage, and proper fertilization is necessary
to success.
These are some of the main features of the
European system as taught by all their
authors, and as first adopted in this country
more than half a century ago, and followed
at Cincinnati, Ohio. This is shown by
Reemilin of that place, the author of the
best work ever published upon the Grape in
this country.
That system, however, died with the
author, and so did the Catawba Grape at
that place. LTpon its ruins was built the
"American system," if just to call a
method thus that has lead to such destruc-
tion of the Grape crop and demoralization
of Grape culture. In fact it is no system as
the authors do not agree among themselves.
Some people recommend setting vines six
feet by six feet apart, while others say 13,
10 and even 30 feet apart. Some plant vines
very -shallow from four to six inches deep,
others a foot or more. Some cultivate very
shallow so as not to cut off the .surface roots,
or not at all; others say cultivate deep and
thorough. Some say vines will be in full
bearing in three years, and should bear from
25 to 40 pounds, others about the .5th and
should bear from 75 to 1.50 pounds each.
Some say prune short and train on trellis,
others say prune long and train on trees, as
that is the natural way, while others say
prune not at all, let them trail on the ground,
as that will save jiosts, wire, pruning and
! cultivation. Somesay plant in rich soil and
bottom land, while others plant in poor soil
and hill sides.
The American system is too fast, it has no
patience. It does too much and does not do
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
81
it well. It looks at flrst cost, and cares little
about its durability, so it reaps a quick re-
ward. It puts otT what oufiht to lie done
to-day until to-morrow, or perliaps at some
other more convenient time. These are
some of the main features of the present
system of Grape culture.
We need not wonder why it i.s not success-
ful. No other system that has no more
harmony or propriety in it would succeed.
To restore the Grape to its orii;inal freedom
from rot and disease we will have to restore
its cultivation to the orifjinal nu>thod. We
have now Ki^'eu you a short outline of both
systems, the one has proven successful
wherever tried, the other has lead to de-
struction. From our own observation as
well as experience we believe the present
method to be exhausting, and few or no
vines can endure such reckless operations
in planting, pruning, training and cultiva-
tion.
Tools for the Orchard.
All the tools needed and used by our old
settlers were an axe and an augur, and with
them they would construct houses and re-
pair sleighs, wagons and implements, and
this probably much better than they could
have done it with a full set of carpenter's
and wagonmaker's tools, if such were sud-
denly given to them. To do the best work
requires not only the proper tools, but also
skill in their use. The average orchardist
probably has few if any of the implements
for the care of trees here illustrated, and he
may get along very well without, if he uses
a common pruning saw, knife, etc., properly.
Yet the possession of perfect tools affords
not a little satisfaction to the user, and it
often facilitates the work wonderfully. The
implements here shown are such as are in
use by German orchardists. Fig. 1 is a
pruning saw fastened to a handle; Figs. 2
and 3 are tree pruners, similar to the ones
we have in use in America; F'ig. 4 is a sort
of hook and chisel combined, to be fastened
to a handle, and used in pulling or gauging
off superfluous sprouts.
One of the greatest advantages which the
possession of these various implements
secures, is deliverance from the necessity of
climbing all over the trees. The work
can mostly be done while standing on the
ground or on common step-ladders.
Figs. .5 and K represent two styles of tree
scrapers, of which there are a great number
in use. Figs. 7 and 8
represent stiff brushes
for brushing the bodies
of trees after the bark
has been scraped off.
The one is fastened to
the end of a long han-
dle, and calculated to
be used high up among
the branches; the other
is intended for that part
which can be reached by hand from the
ground.
7. 8.
TREE BRUSHES.
Crowing Dandelions for Market.
Dandelions are to a limited extent used
for greens in early spring ; but the supply
comes more from the chance plants grow-
ing wild, than from cultivated beds in the
garden. In some local markets there is
quite a demand for Dandelion greens before
their regular season, or such a demand
could be easily created by keeping a supply
before would-be purchasers.
There are a number of varieties mentioned
in English works on gardening, among
them the Moss-leaved, Thick-leaved or
Cabbaging, Broad-leaved, etc. Mr. John
Rupp (Pa.) last spring furnished us some
plants of a new "Mammoth" sort which
has made an enormous growth; but we are
not prepared to speak of the comparative
worth of the various sorts.
Those who are only ac<iuainted with this
vegetable in a wild ."tate, says Prof. S. Green
in the report of the Minnesota Experiment
Station, will be wonderfully surprised vrith
the merits of the cultivated Damlelions.
The labor of raising them is comparatively
easy and the satisfaction of having a plenty
of nice greens early in the spring well
repays the labor required to grow them.
Forcing Dandelions for an early growth
is done in two ways. One consists in sow-
ing the seeds in beds just the size of the
ordinary cold-frame. In the fall the frame
is set over the plants and well banked up
and the sash and covers are put on as soon
as freezing weather approaches, and are
left on until early in March, when a plenty
of sunlight is given and careful attention
is given to ventilation and watering, which
at once starts the plants into growth and a
very early crop is soon ready for market.
Another method consists in covering the
bed in the spring with sash laid two inches
apart on 3x4 inch joist. Put on at this dis-
tance apart they require no attention for
ventilation and the greens will be ready to
cut long before those left In the field, but
not near so early as when more care is taken
and the plants are carefully grown in frames.
The seeds for Dandelions should be sown
each year and the old bed should be plowed
under to prevent the seed scattering. The
old bed may be kept over for several years
and I have successfully done so, but it will
not yield such nice crops as newly-sown
seed on fresh soil. Immense quantities of
these greens are grown in the vicinity of
large cities in the Eastern States.
Early Spring Vegetables.
The great value of our common garden
vegetables, we are glad to note, is being
appreciated more and more every year.
This in a great measure is due to the un-
ceasing efforts of writers and agricultural
periodicals to call people's attention to the
golden opportunities hidden in vegetables
and fruits. Mr. W. 1. Chamberlain, presi-
dent Iowa College of Agriculture writes to
the Ohio Farmer concerning some of the
leading spring vegetables, as follows:
■Lettuce. — I consider this as one of the
most valuable vegetables we have; not food
to any extent, but tonic and relish. It
should be sown in February If possible in a
good hot-bed, on the south side of a tight
fence or building. Then it will be big
enough for use the early hot days in April
when the system craves a tonic, and will
last, sown later out doors, till other things
push it aside. If headed it is specially de-
licious, and is best with Durkee's salad
dressing, or a similar home-made dressing.
Many like it best simply with sugar, and
vinegar with a very little salt. Its bitter-
ness hints at its value as a tonic in spring,
and shows why the system craves it so.
Radishes are far Inferior to lettuce; are
indigestible unless very young and tender,
and have little value except as an appetizer
and relish. Still they are craved by the
system in the early hot days of spring.
Spinach.— I don't think one farmer in
fifty ever raises this exceedingly valuable
vegetable. In moderate climates, or where
snow covers the ground nearly all winter,
the fall variety may be sown and come up
late in the fall, and be earliest in spring.
The spring variety' should be sown very
early. Two rows 100 feet long will give
plenty for a family of si.x or eight persons.
It makes the most delicious "greens," boiled
and seasoned with salt, butter and vinegar.
Its bitter element is a good tonic which the
system craves, and it is a relish in spring.
Its leaves are so large and clean and thick
that a few minutes serve to gather it and
pick it over ready for boiling. I know of
no vegetable that can fill its place. Its sea-
son is over about when Peas flr.st come. It
is far cheaper even for farmers than to col-
lect Dock or Dandelion leaves, that should
not be on the farm.
Beets.— More commonly grown by farm-
ers than almost any other kind of vegetable.
Good nearly the whole year round, flrst as
"greens, "then with Potato salads they make
a handsome platter, while as a relish freshly
boiled, with Potato or freshly pickled, they
are quite worth having.
Onions. — Valuable small, raw, early; val-
uable as a flavoring for Potato salads and
India curries, and specially valuable, nu-
tritious and healthful boiled and stewed in
cream; and delicious and healthful pickled
the size of Chestnuts. We keep a jar open
all the time, and if I notice any tendency to
constipation from my sedentary habits,
three or four of these little pickled Onions
eaten at or after supper time, give a quiet
movement of the bowels the next morning,
better then any apparient or laxative medi-
cine I have ever tried.
Peas.— One of the most valuable of all the
vegetables. Our flrst mess this year was
cooked June 3, and they lasted until .luly
18, in great abundance. We plant plenty,
three double rows about 1.50 feet long. Mc-
Lean's Little Gem for early, requiring no
bushing, and Champion of England for late,
requiring bushing. One day we picked, for
two or three days' use, and to give away, a
bushel, and there were as many more. The
greenish varieties that wrinkle when ripe
are best. Pickled when just full size and
before the pods begin to turn white, and
cooked thoroughly and seasoned right, with
considerable "juice," they make a dish fit to
set before a king; almost inflnitely better
than the dry, over-ripe Peas that you get at
the three-dollar-a-day hotels.
Buckwheat In Orchards
We believe it was Prof. J. L. Budd of
Iowa who flrst recommended Buckwheat as
a crop to be grown in young orchards. The
subject is thought to be of such importance
that it should be kept before the people who
plant orchard fruits. My belief in the prac-
tice, writes Prof. Budd in the Farmers'
Review, is more positively in its favor than
it was ten years ago. During the heated
months a covering of growing Buckwheat
furnishes very nearly the cool, mellow soil
found overthe roots of trees in the primitive
forest. Not only is the soil made cooler,
permitting the nitrogen feeding roots to
come up nearly to the surface, but the lower
beds of air coming in contact with the .stems
and lower branches are also cooler. If any
one doubts the beneflcial effects of Buck-
wheat in a young orchard, let him sow one
half of the orchard to this crop the last of
June, and treat the other half in any one of
the ordinary ways. He will flnd in three
years a difference in favor of the Buckwheat
portion that can be seen a mile distant.
With the use of the new Japan Buckwheat
—which seems to fill perfectly in our worst
seasons — the crop can be made profitable. If
there is moisture enough in the soil when
sown to bring it up I believe it will mature
a crop without rain.
1,599. Rochester Nurserymen. Lists of re-
liable nui'serymen are easily obtainable by all
readers of Popnr^AR Gardening. Our adver-
tising columns during a large part of the year
contain the announcements of the leading
dealers in plants, shrubs, trees, seeds, and general
horticultural requisites. No party about whose
reliability we have the least suspicion, will gain
admLssion to our advertising columns. Hence
we can only advise our readers to look up the
advertisements of dealers aprearing in this
ioiu-nal, write tn them for eatauigue and patron-
ize none except those whom we in a measure
have endorsed by accepting their advertisement.
82
POPULAR GARDENING.
January,
Winter Care of the Grounds.
W. C. .rENNISON, MIDDLESEX CO., MASS.
We should walk over the grounds occa-
sionally during the winter season, especially
when it freezes at night and thaws through
the day. We may find shrubs that were set
last spring half way out of the ground by
this time with their roots all bare. If so
give them a covering and reset in the
spring. Had they been given a good mulch
at the beginning of winter they
would not have been thrown out.
Here you see is a place where
the water could not all run off
and so the ground is covered
with a thin cake of ice which
freezes at night and thaws
during the day. If this con-
tinues for a great length of time,
all the plants underneath will
be killed, even if they are called
hardy. Better cover them im-
mediately with something to
stop this continual freezing and
thawing. Here again is a spot
where those hea\'y winds which
we had some time ago, have
blown the covering all off the
plants, and their being only half
hardy will necessitate more
covering if you wishto save them.
Here is a sunny place where
the poultry like to congregate,
but they are eating the leaves
all oflf the Pansies, Sweet Will-
iams, etc., and the plants must
be covered with boxes or Pine
boughs, or else the poultry
must be kept out of the way.
Have your eyes open and you
will all the time find some-
thing that needs care.
The pests of winter will be on
hand to bark the young trees if
not prevented. It is a fact that
mice are unusually abundant
the present year in many parts.
They are liable to girdle trees
under the snow line and to pre-
vent which the snow should be
tramped close against the tree
or shrub. As other food is
scarce for them this becomes an
effective time to trap these
pests. Rabbits may be kept
from trees by smearing the trunks with
bloody meat. A watch should also be kept
for the cocoons and eggs of insects; destroy-
ing everyone that is met.
Commercial Flower Growing.
How NewYork florists manage their plants
and grow flue flowers in the easiest and
simplest way, so as to enable them to make
a living at the business, is told in Country
Gentleman by our friend Mr. Falconer.
The greenhouses, he says,are mostly span-
roofed and hip-roofed, and with the broad
side facing south. They are usually built
of wood, and of such size and height as tg
The Double Tiger Lily.
A favorite subject in every flower garden
is the common Tiger Lily. It was brought
from China almost a hundred years ago,
and is considered indispensable ou both the
most modest and the most pretentious
grounds. Its bright deep orange-red flowers
with their numerous small purplish-black
spots are known to all who have an eye for
the beauties of lawn and border, and they
never fail to excite admiration.
A fine double form of the Lilium tigri-
num, or common Tiger Lily, was brought
from Japan in 1871. This is the Double-
Flowered Tiger Lily(ii/n(»i tiffrinum florc-
plcno), infloresenee of which is shown in il-
lustration. The flowers are bright orange-
red, densely spotted with blackish-purple,
with segments multiplied into about six
series. It appears to be of even stronger
growth than the common form, and may be
used either as a companion or as substitute
for the other. Surely it gives us a most
welcome variation, and adds a renewed in-
terest to the whole class of Tiger Ijilies.
The over-abundance of pollen, furnished
and shed by the single form, is sometimes
urged as an objection. Of course the double
form is free from this.
FLOWER OF DOUBLE TIGER LILY.
best accommodate the plants meant to be
grown in them, so as to have the plants as
near the glass as possible, and at the same
time give them plenty of head-room. The
greenhouses instead of being divided into
several compartments, or built in fanciful
shapes, or scattered about the place, as is
the case generally with those in private
gardens, are erected in one common group
with the several houses running parallel to
and close beside each other, and each house
is devoted to one particular class of plants,
and all open into a long shed built along
the north end of the houses.
In such on arrangement there are no un-
due bends, or dips, or rises, or other per-
plexity in the heating pipes, for the flow is
straight and unchecked from one end of the
house to the other, and this means an im-
mense saving in labor and fuel over that
expended in the nonsensical architectural
"beauties" of many private greenhouses.
And the working, as bench-making and
filling, potting, watering, flower-gathering
and packing, staking and the like can all be
done without going out of doors, and what
a comfort and convenience this is !
In country places the florist can get plenty
of fresh .soil, but in suburban and city green-
houses, this is a hard matter. The way
these florists do is to spraedout their old soil
along the roadside and leave it there for a
couple of years, then bring it in again and
use it. The richness of this soil by the way-
side becomes a happy home for grass and
weeds which soon divest it of sourness and
noxious matter, and by the end of the sec-
ond year it is a sweet friable earth full of
fibre. When composted, fresh but well
rotted manure is added to it. For Roses, if
at all practicable, fresh pasture loam is de-
sired so as to get rid of the Rose grub.
A plentiful supply of water is of vital im-
portance to the florist ; he cannot afford to
bother with a pump or well. In
the absence of reservoir water,
a windmill and tank are an
absolute necessity, as he does
all his watering with a hose,
unless it be a few odds and
ends and cuttings and seeds.
The florists do not grow a little
of everything ; they conflne
themselves to a few things
which they prove most success-
ful in growing, tor which their
soil and houses are best adapted,
and for which there is the best
market. For instance, one flor-
ist will throw his main strength
into Roses, another into Carna-
tions, another into Violets, an-
other into Palms, and another
into bedding plants, and soon,
but all have to grow sufficient
variety of plants to justify a full
succession and occupancy of
their greenhouses all through
the season. Such successions
may include Roses all the time,
Carnations in quantity from
September till March, Chrysan-
themums in November, Stevias
in November and December,
Poinsettias in December, Calla
from November till April, bulbs
in variety from November till
May, and so on. And some
florists are specialists with cer-
tain flowers— to wit, Orchids,
or Pond Lilies.
Florists do not like old plants.
They much prefer to raise a fresh
stock every year of Chrysanthe-
mums, Stevias, Bouvardias,
Carnations, Tea Roses, Violets
and the like, also bed ding plants;
and although they raise annual
batches of Poinsettias and
Bouvardias, these are also good enough
when two years old. And in order to lessen
labor and secure a healthy growth in their
stock, they plant out in the open ground
in summer all stock that experience has
taught them are benefltted by such treat-
ment; Violets. Carnations and Bouvardias
are included among these and most all soft-
wooded plants for stock purposes are planted
out. Callas are rested in a dry state in
summer, aud Poinsettias and Heliotropes
are grown in pots in summer, because when
planted out their tendencv to over-luxur-
iance causes them to wilt badly.or to become
a good deal defoliated after being lifted.
Where hardy perennials or shrubs are large-
ly used for forcing, the great points to be
observed are to get these to complete their
growth as early in the season as possible,
have them well rooted, prevent a second
growth in the fall, and give them a thorough
and long rest.
Carnations, Violets, Tea Roses, Bouvar-
dias, Smilax, aud Climbing Fern and Aspar-
agus, are planted out in beds ; so -sometimes,
too, are Poinsettias, but in order to check
over-luxuriance ot foliage at the expense of
flowers, Callas are kept in pots.
Many plants receive different treatment at
the hands of diflereut florists, but one thing
is observable everywhere — namely the total
ahscence of empty space in the greenhouses;
succession crops are being got ready long
before the waning crops are removed. The
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
83
florists bestow imicli importaiioe upon set-
ting in their plants early in the fall, and
before the cool nights set in ; a check to the
plants is sedulously ganled against.
Ornamental Shrubbery.
The fear that planting shrubs, etc., for
home ornamentation would entail an un-
reasonable amount of fussing, care, and per-
haps expense, prevents many who otherwise
would, from making much efTort in this di-
rection. Too much encouragement could
therefore not well be given to these hesitat-
ing proprietors of dreary and desolate
country homes.
There is no way in which the external at-
tractions of a residence may be increased so
perfectly, and at so little expense, as by the
planting of ornamental shrubbery, says the
Country Gentleman. Unlike architectural
structures, it docs not require the labor of
the hand to bring out every part, but na-
tural growth develops into beautiful forms.
It requires only a good soil, planting in the
first place, and training into the most effec-
tive shape. A certain amount of smooth
lawn in connection with the shrubbery,
serves to develope its charms.
But the surroundings must be kept in a
neat condition. We sometimes see planted
grounds which have l)een entirely neglected
afterwards. Weeds and grass have grown
among the ornamentals and converted them
to "brush '" They have been allowed to
grow into straggling and neglected forms.
It is a simple and easy task to give them all
the necessary attention. A selection of the
best shrubs is of course important, and such
a selection was made at a horticultural
meeting in Rochester by those present, who
placed the following at the head of their
lists: The first foiir were Deutzia gracilis,
Wiegela rosea. Purple Fringe and .Japan
Quince. These had the greatest number of
votes. Xext in order were Persian liilac,
Deutzia crenata and Spira-a lanceolata.
After these were White Fringe, Snowball,
Plum-leaved Spirfea, Tartarian Honey-
suckle, Double-Flowering Almond, For-
sythia and Crimson Currant. The follow-
ing had fewer votes: Purple Barberry, Rose
Acdcia, .Siberian Lilac, .losikea Lilac, Double
White Lilac, Magnolia obovata, Deutzia
scabra. Tree Peouia and Silver Bell. Plant
these in natural groupings, with a due pro-
portion of smooth shaven lawn between,
and a natural beauty may be produced ex-
ceeding anything which formal architecture
can give.
Expanding Plant Collar.
A London firm now manufactures and
offers for sale the contrivance shown in
engraving, consisting of a band of metal
bent in ring form,
which is inserted inside
the pot so as to allow
■ of surface feeding.
Where Pineapples,
fruit trees, etc., are
grown in small pots,
a device of this sort
comes very handy. The
space gained above the
pot itself may be filled
with some rich soil or
fine compost, the nutritive elements of
which in course of time, and in conse-
quence of the water .soaking through it, are
imparted to the soil beneath, and utilized in
feeding the plant.
The Double Primula.
Among winter-blooming plants there are
none that, if well-grown, give more genuine
pleasure to the amateur cultivator than the
Primula chinensis. The single sorts being
of sturdier growth, greater hardine.ss, and
easily grown from seed, are perhaps more
satisfactory in most instances than the
double ones, but they are of far less value
for cut flowers. For this purpose the double
sorts, especially double white, a good speci-
men of which is shown in illustration, can
hardly be dispensed with. Kven as green-
house or window plants, they retain their
beauty much longer than the single forms.
Otherwise they require about the same
treatment. But while the single kinds
can easily and speadily be raised by the
hundreds from seed, only a small precent-
age of the high-priced "double" seed gives
double and semi-double flowers, so they
are usually propagated from cuttings.
The best time for propagating double
Primulas, says Amateur Gardening, is as
soon as the plants have
finished flowering. The
cuttings should be t,aken
off with a sharp knife, and
close to the stem. In.sert
them singly in small pots
of sandy soil ; tie to a
small stick to prevent
them toppling over, and
plunge in a brisk bottom
heat. Water must be ap-
plied sparingly until the
cuttings are rooted. Those
who have no bottom heat
in which to plunge the
cuttings may remove a
few of the bottommost
leaves and place some
leaf-mould or Cocoanut
fibre refuse around the
plants, heaping it up care-
fully until the stems are
completely hidden. Keep in a close frame
or the warmest end of the greenhouse for a
few weeks, by which time roots will be
emitted from the stems of the shoots. A
portion of the leaf-mould can then be re-
moved, the plants divided carefully, and
each division potted and grown on without
further trouble.
Watering should be most carefully per-
formed, for many failures occur owing to
this being done in a negligent manner.
During the summer enough must be given
to keep the soil always in a moist condition,
but not sodden. Keep the stems of the
plants as dry as possible, for if these are
made continually wet, damping off is inevi-
table. This is particularly so in winter, and
readers who desise to keep their plants in
good health should bear this in mind.
tings or else a great portion of them would
be flowering ones that is, have flowering
buds, and thus could come to little good.
In selecting the cuttings choose the strong-
est, cut the stem at the thinnest joint back
and set them directly into these pots, using
a compost of loam and sand, finishing off
with a layer of sand at the top. The cutting
should be set in the center of the pot and
have the soil firmly pressed against it.
Water them gently and plunge in propagat-
ing sand in which there is bottom heat, and
keep close and shaded for a week or ten
days. The cuttings should be sprinkled sev-
eral times daily. In about two weeks, if all
has gone well, they will commence to show
growth, and then more air must be given.
Culture of Hydrangeas in Pots.
S. E. GRAVES, ERIE CO., N. Y.
There are few plants more attractive than
the common Hydrangea Hortensis, when it
is well grown; hence it is a great favorite,
both with the commercial florist and with
amateurs. True it may be not quite so easy
to manage in its early stages as is a Geranium
or Coleus, yet its culture is in no wise diffi-
cult. We propose in the present article to
throw some light upon this subject, our
remarks being based upon a rather extended
experience, some years ago, in growing
large numbers of Hydrangeas for market.
To begin with the cutting it should be
stated that is impossible to start cuttings too
early after January flrst. To obtain early
cuttings some plants should have been
started two months ago, by cutting them
entirely down, and setting them in a warm
place, with a view to having them break
out new growth. In case no provision of
this kind was made in the fall, no time
should now be lost in bringing in some
stack plants for this purpose.
The shoots that proceed from these plants
afford the material for propagation. Every
shoot that forms is suitable for a cutting.
If these shoots are allowed to grow at will
some care must be used in taking the cut-
OF THE DOUBLE CHINESE PRIMROSE.
In another week or two the young plants
will be ready for larger pots. Usually a
shift into 4-inch pots may be recommended.
Place potsherds in the bottom of each pot
with much care, in order that any excess of
water may readily pass off. For compost
use two parts of well decayed turf and one
of old manure with a good dash of coarse
sand. After they are potted place in a cool
house until spring, keeping them rather
close. Then move them to the open air for
the summer, and in a position where they
will get an abundance of air and some sun.
About the middle of October plunge the
pots in a cold pit house, to remain until the
plants are wanted for forcing into bloom.
For early spring flowers a lot of plants may
be brought into heat as early as February,
and for a succession from that time on. It
is an advantage to give them the benefit of
some bottom heat at this stage. Air should
be given with moderate freedom up to the
time flower buds appear, when it may be
somewhat increased. The syringe should
be occasionally used in sunny days, but care
should be used not to overdo in this respect.
When growth is fairly underway the
plants should have the benefit of a light,
warm position. An important point at this
stage is to freely provide water, of which
the rapid-growing plants require a great
amount. Always with alternate waterings
apply some liquid manure from now on up
to full bloom. The plants should be neatly
staked only in this growth.
1,581. Golden Queen Baspberry. This is
nothing more or less than a yellow t'uthbert. of
same habit of growth and remarkable thrift,
hardiness and productiveness as the red Cuthbert.
For home use, to eat fresh, it is excellent, and
its golden color contrasts pleasingly with the red
varieties when mixed in a dessert dish. For
canning it is inferior, as the beautiful yellow
tnrns into an unattractive ashy gray; and tor
market it is absolutely worthless, as the berry
soon gets soft, and its beauty fades within a few
hours after picking. A sprinkling of red color
will occasionally appear in some berries, thus
proving it to be a sport from Cuthbert. The
plant has great suukering propensities. The
variety-loving amateur will be pleased with a
limited number of plants in his garden.
84
POPULAR GARDENING.
January,
The New Spring Dresses.
Who sets the fashions, I'd like to know.
For the little people beneath the snow?
And are they working a weary while,
To dress themselves in the latest style?
There's Mrs. Primrose, who used to be
The very picture of modesty ;
Plain were her dresses, but now she goes
With crimps and fringes and furbelows.
And the Pansy family must have found
Queen Elizabeth's wardrobe underground :
For in velvets and satins of every shade
Tiiroughout the season they're all arrayed.
Pinks and Daisies and all the flowers
Change the fashions, as w^e change ours :
And those who knew them in olden days
Are mystified by their modern ways.
Who sets the fashions, Pd like to know.
For the little people beneath the snow ?
And are they busy a weary while
Dressing themselves in the latest style ?
The Pine Tree.
0 let me sing of the Pluc tree — I who know I
1 am a dear disciple at his feet,
Faniiiar with his many moods, can tell
Each winged thought within his swarthy brow
The owl that governs all his midnight dreams
The dove the spirit of a holier peace.
The raven wrapped in melancholy's weeds,—
And even the maiden moon forgets her vows.
To fondle him all upon her lap,
And run her pearly lingers through his hair
( The while Endymion wakes upon the hills).
He has the goodly gift of prophecy.
It comes with whirlwind, with fire of storms.
He rends his beard : He strikes his knotted brows
The dew drips from his face in giant drops'
He shouts the desolation of the world.
The secrets in the caverns of mid-air !
O Pine Tree. God sends down His word to you
By His own eagle, by His Ganymede !
—Edward Abram Valentine.
We sow the seed, and we may reap
The harvest flower,
But God alone can watch and keep ;
Lo! when our eyelids droop in sleep
He sends the shower.
— Y'outh's Companion,
The catalogues are in bud.
Harbingers of Spring, The forced bulbs.
What fragrance in that early pot Hyacinth.
For brightest bloom grow Bovardia in a cool
house.
Are your gronnds now adoined with ever-
greens?
Lily of the Valley forces readily, but January
i.s I'at her early.
The flower of the Lilac retains its odor even
when withered.
Orchids are moreand more becoming a leading
flower in New York.
Get rid of it. (Ine plant louse remaining over
is good for a myriad next spring.
If your Camellia buds drop before opening the
chances are that the plants suffered from drying-
out last summer.
Novelties are veritable Koses in the catalogues,
but they often show the thorn in reality. Always
enjoy them with due care.
Clematises of the improved types are propa-
gated loy grafting on the roots of a free growing
kind; they may also be layered.
Color of flower is an important consideration
in the selection of plants for the window. Bright
colors should be given the preference.
Decorate your door yard with some ornamentals
m this year 1890. Let those now iilant who ne\'er
planted before, and those who always plant, now
plant the more.
A good resolution for .January is to help on the
cause of horticulture as never before by induc-
ing your friends and neighbors to become readers
of the present journal.
Large Grape Vine. It is reported that a Grape
vine of the Mission variety, planted forty-seven
years ago by a Spanish girl in Carpentera, Cali.
fornia, has a circumference of six feet at its base,
and at the height of six feet branches out in
every direction for a hundred feet. Its product
this season was estimated at four tons.
Flower-Pot Hanger. Tonstructcd of three
wires of equal length each extending one-third
around the pot with its bottom end twisted to
the next wire forming an outwardly extending
arm, then all bent upwardly, their top ends
joined and twisted forming a hook thereon. It
is a convenient harness for suspending Orchid
pans and Fern pots; see illustration.— Jofin iane.
Our Inquiry Department is intended for the
free exchange of information between our read-
ers, a sort of give-and-receivc department. Let
no one hesitate to ask questions on any horticul-
tural problem in regard to which he desires in-
formation; let no one hesitate to give informa.
tion of the desired kind when such is in his pos-
session. This department shows a becoming ten-
dency to enlarge just as we are glad to see.
The Chicago Flower Show. This was a grand
success. The plan of having lady judges for the
flower work and decorating was decidedly just
right. John Lane's two fashionably dressed dolls
grouped among blooming Orchids and Chrysan-
themums under a placard inscribed "A Fair Ex-
change," one holding in her extended hand the
aristocratic Orchid, the other offering the Chrys-
anthemum, Mrs. A. Hardy, in exchange, attract-
ed much attention.
Shelter belts, such as close evergreen hedges,
etc., while very desirable in some instances, are
a positive damage to orchards in others. The
Peach, for instance, is safer in a somewhat ex-
posed situation, where growth is retarded in
spring, than in the immediate shelter of a belt of
close evergreens, where a free circulation of air,
and the sweep of the winds is interrupted. Many
of our trees are not thankful for two much pet-
ting and protection.
Northern Light Grape. Specimens of the fruit
of this Grape were shown us by Mr. W. W. Hil-
born of (Ontario. It is a white Grai>e of pure
flavor, claimed to be hardy enough for Ottawa
Ont. Bunch fair sized, compact, shouldered; a
little later than Champion. Vine a strong grower
and prolific bearer, with Concord foliage. The
quality of the f ruit,however,does not betray La-
brusca origin. This may yet prove an interest-
ing Graite for the extreme north, and we are
going to watch it.
The Wagner Apple is hardly surpaa=ed in iiual-
ity, while the tree is immensely productive even
at an early age, so productive indeed, that it us-
ually commits suicide by o'i'erbearing. The fruit
needs severe thinning. The trouble with the
tree is that it hardly ever forms a healthy union
between graft and stock, and this influences tree
and fruit alike unfavorably. This Apple deserves
to have a little thought and effort bestowed on
it. Perhaps someway might yet be found how to
give it a sound root.
For grafting the English Walnut on Black
Walnut the cions should be nice and well
ripened wood of last summers growth, cut be-
fore hard freezing, and buried where they will
keep moist and fresh on north side of a fence or
building. My mode of grafting is cleft on stocks
not over 2^4 inches in diameter and the time,
when the Black Walnut bloom is J4 to !4 inch
long. I put in my grafts, using only abou tfour
inches of top end of cion. If these directions
are followed you will succeed.— J'. Luther Bowers.
A good compost for pot plants or any thing else
can be made as follows: Skim off slices of sods,
mix with fine brush and weeds, let get dry, and
turn the whole mass. Mi.v this well with some
leaf-mold, well decomposed manure (cow dung
being be.st\ one-third sand. This compost will
grow anything in the ordinary line to perfection.
If prepared in the fall, store out of the reach of
frost, and turn occasionally, liy spring it will
be in admirable order. An old gardener told me
this forty yeai's ago, and I have never seen it
fail to give good results — .S. Miller.
Cut Worms and Tin Cans. I have used empty
salmon and lobster cans with excellent success
to protect young plants from cut worms. Such
cans can be easily procured in almost any town
for the picking up. I start a good hardwood lire
in a box stove, throw the cans in tf> mult off the
solder, when they spring open and can l:)e pnt
away ready for use. Last season I had 300 such
cans. After Tomato and similar plants were set,
I simply bent one of the tin cans around a plant,
and then pi-css it down; a few inches into the
ground. The protection was complete.— J". H,
SUvens, Ont.
Japanese Maples. About twenty distinct va-
rieties of these lo\ ely ornamental trees ha\e been
derived by careful selection and grafting of rai-e
sports from Acer polymorphus. Among them
we have varieties of red, purplish, pinkish, green,
yellow and many-colored leaves. The contrast
in the colors of a group of these trees renders
them an object of attraction and admiration.
They delight in rich, loose soil sheltered from
the north wind, which is the worst enemy of the
tender foliage. The foliage and its color is shown
in their full glory and to best advantage during
the spring months.
The Brazilian Tree Tomato. H. J. Goemans
of Kew (England) put .some fruit of the Cypho-
mandra betaeea on exhibit at the meeting of the
Dutch Horticultural .'5ociety, October SI, 1H89,
claiming that these fruits now and then seen at
Covent Garden, London, could become of great
importance in future as a new sort of Tomato.
The committee, however, did not adjudge a cer-
tificate to them because this plant is unfit for the
Dutch climate, first on account of not fruiting
before the second year, and not being able to
stand the winter. Besides it does not surpass
the common Tomato in flavor.
A Good Blackberry is Ancient Britain, and if
Mr. Riehl could have seen my patch of IM acres
mostly of this variety about the middle of last
August, I think he would have made up his
mind that the berry wanted is found. With me
it is just about as early and hardy as the Snyder,
far more productive and much better in every
other way. I picked my first Britains the i:"th of
July, also first Snyder's same day, the last
Britaics the 21st of .September. Whole amount
picked and sold 201 bushels 1.3 quarts, which sold
for S(i.'>4.52, which was entirely satisfactory to
me.— G'ro. E. HnitehcU^ Wi^eetnain.
Eosebu<?8 ai-e hard to kill with poison, it seems.
Two yeai's since. Col. Pearson of New .Jersey
thought that the copper mixture sprayed on his
Grape rines had killed or driven off the Rosebugs.
At the same time editor Carman of the Rural
New Yorker claim-
ed that he could kill
them by spraying
them with buhach
solution. Now Col-
Pearson states that
the only way he can
settle the Rosebug,
for good, is to smash
them. Pyrethrum,
he says, will intoxi-
cate or stupef.v
them, so that they
fall from the vines,
but recover after a
while and fly up
again. What we
would like to know
now is whether Co.l
Peai'son used the
fresh buhach, or the
stale pyrethrum of
our drug stores.
Amateur Diaries,
A diary of all ojier-
ations with fiowers
and in the garden
carefully kept from
year's beginning to
end, while of course
a necessity to the
professional gar-
dener, would also be
a boon, and a source
of much enjoyment
to the amateur, and
perhaps often save
disappointmentandtroubleafterwards. If he has
scored a success, the management that lead to it
can be traced in all its details, and will be a guide
tor the future. If a mistake has been made, it
is recorded in its beginning, and in its results,
and a similar mistake can be avoided in future.
A well kept diary, indeed, wili be a valuable
record of events, of methods, of operations gen-
erally. lA't the amateur not neglect it.
Choice Chrysanthemums, A lady, who visited
ourgi'ounds shortly after seeing the t^harleston
show, remarked that our Chrysanthemums beat
those in Charleston. They were certaiul.v lovely,
and many visited the groinids dail.v. Diana takes
the lead among the white ones with us so far.
One or two luid Mi's, .\lpheus Hardy in bloom,
but all said if they could have but one they would
take Diana. It is not large but the form is per-
Flower-Pot Banycr.
iSqO'
POPULAR GARDENING.
■^5
foct, ami tlieic is a wealth of blossoms. Mi's. Vaii-
naiuan, rod rtud bronze: f^ullinfordii, ver.v dark
red; Priiiee of Oranjre, olirome .vellow and larjji':
AlKl-el-Kadi*e, very dark ivd with j-ellow eenter;
Tragiclie, a lieautifnl rose: Vim. Itobert.son,
onin^e and .vellow. attnu'ted speeial attention
nmoHK the niiinerous other beauties. Our huKC
nia.ss of riehl.v blended eolors was the ehief at-
traetion. ('hrysanthemums do well left In the
ground lieix*. We do not t(t take up the Dahliaji
or the (iladioluses if set reasonabl.v deep.— J7. A,
O., lirninanl Jn.'^lituti; S. r.
The Sprinp Adonis. One of the most
attractive siibje^-ts amon^r hardy border
plants iu the spring is the Spriuj: Adonis
(>ldom> wniaUs) of whieh an engraving is
shown anue.xed. It is a low arrowing plant
of about one foot in heicrht in the form of
a dense tuft and having finely di\ ided leaves
in whorls along the stems. Early spring
is the season of bloom at whieh time the
plants are covered with numerous large,
brilliant .vellow Anemone-like tlowei*s three
inches in diameter, a single flower being
produced at the end of each stem. Reing
a dwarf jilant this Adonis should not b^
crt)wded among strong, coarse growers,
but should occupy a place next to the
margin of the bed or be situated on rock
work. A sandy, moist loam, on which the
water never stands, suits it well for soil
the plants should not often be disturbed.
Increased by division or by saving seeds
soon after they ai'e ripe. The Adonis can
be had from leading growers of perennial plants.
Muslin Covered Cold Frame. When we com-
nienced housekeeping we of course wanted a
garden, and having read so much of the desir-
ability of having a hot -bed. cold frames, etc., de-
termined to have them if possible. The first year
however, we could do no better than start some
plants in boxes at the kitchen windows. To be
sure that was better than nothing, but they re-
quired a great deal of care and attention in order
to do at all well. The next few years we had a
small hot-bed, but it was rather troublesome to
get the manure, make the hot-bed, and give it
the attention it needed in the way of ventilation,
etc., and we lost plants or had them in.iured by
chilling from over-ventilation, and burning from
lack of it, so at length I was forced to content
myself with a cold frame only. This required
much the same care, but for a shorter time. As
a substitute for glass I took a piece of unbleached
muslin, some boiled linseed oil, and a lump of
resin; then I got my husband to make a frame
of strips of pine boards to fit the top of the cold
frame, and tacked the muslin to it firmly, stretch-
ing as tightly as possible. I then melted the oil
and resin in a tin dish, and while hot applied it to
the cloth with a clean paint brush. A second
coat was given after the first had dried, and this
frame was used in place of sash. The frame re-
quired less attention than one covered with
sashes. I only ventilated it after the sun got
very high and warm; and on very chilly nights
early in the spring covered it with an old quilt,
and I never had such strong thrifty plants be-
fore. The care of it had been so little, that I got
the full benefit of the pleasure, whereas hereto-
fore the constant attention'required, added to my
other cares, made it a troublesome pleasure at
best. Hereafter I shall use that sort of covering
more e.xtensively, and would recommend it to
all other busy wives and mothers, who, while
they have little time to spare to "fuss" over early
things for the flower and vegetable garden,
would yet enjoy the growing and having of
them, if it did not involve much extra time and
trouble. Mine required practically nothing ex-
cept watering and w^eeding, from seed sowing
until transplanting. I would suggest that the
muslin used be of close even texture, that if the
frame to be covered is large that the cover be
made in sections, one dimension equal to the
width of the muslin used. A piece of resin the
size of an egg to half a pint of boiled linseed oil
will be about the right proportion.— EWcr's Wife.
House Plants and Health. The Massachusetts
Horticultural Societ.v has for some time taken
special pains to encourage window gardening as
a sanitary measure. It is held to be of great
average advantage to the health of the people to
cultivate a few of the simpler plants during
winter in their houses. The moral effect is also
held to be very marked and positive. The society
now is engaged in the free distribution of pam-
phlets to teach the best methods of culture; and
especially' to enable children to care for a few
floral pots. Sanitation is the sum of all science
for the people at large. It is getting to be un-
derstood that nearly all disease is preventable.
Probably a good deal of guess work is indulged
in in matters sanitar.v, but a very general opin-
ion is expressed by scientists that the perfume of
tlowei-s is t)f \'alue in civating ozone, and minis-
tering to health. Professor Meehan ami l)r
Augers of Philadelphia have written ranch to
this point, and now a Frenchman, M. Ungerer, is
convinced that, not only flowers, but the per-
fumes distilled from them have a salutary in-
fluence on the constitution and are of high thera-
THE SPRING ADONIS. Adonia Vernalia.
peutic value. He tells us that in towns where
perfumes are made all forms of phthisis are rare.
This is probably a general truth; but it niust not
be overlooked that each i.>erson has special rela-
tions to the vegetable world through his olfac-
tory organs, as well as through his organs of
taste. Some perfumes are injurious to some per-
sons that benefit others. In selecting our house
plats we shall not go amiss in taking by preference
Heliotropes, Mignonette, the old fashioned rose
and apple scented Geraniums; and for bulbs the
Freesia and Lilies. The relation of sanitation to
animals is quite as close as the scientists find it to
be to plants. I do not like to disturb the serenity
of the domestic cat, but a medical journal as-
sures us that an outbreak of scarlet fever in
Chicago was certainly caused by the spread of
contagion by means of a cat. Other disgusting
diseases are frequently spread about by dogs,
notably, the itch. We have traced trichinosis to
the hog, and it is more than probable that the
cow is the origin of some of our worst diseases.
Cats are very subject to diptheria; and rapidly
spread the malignant poison to those who pet
them. Barnyard fowls are also said to be sub-
ject to the same disease. The lesson is, keep ani-
ma.ls as clean as nature demands, and kill diseased
pets at once. A dog or cat that is spared may
cost a family dearly, if not a whole neighbor-
hood. The moral? Pet plants in preference to
domestic animals.
Notes on Floral Usages in New York.
A center-piece for a dinner, last week, was made
of only one kind of flower, the Lady Eramsi Car-
nation, which had its own foliage freely inter-
persed among the blooms. Around the clump of
these was a heavy line of the golden Lycopodium
foliage. Altogether the eflrect was most brilliant.
For a child's funeral last Wednesday, a Sixth
Avenue florist turned out some very elegant
floral pieces. There was a pall of Hoses, Lilies,
and Hyacinths, which was thrown over the
casket. Besides this there was a broken link
made of white blossoms studded with Roses, and
a plaque of Faust Pansies. upon which reclined
an anchor of Forget>me-not flowers, with a chair
of Lily of the Valley sprays, all most exquisitely
made up.
The catalogues of the seedsmen and florists
which come out this month are usually much
more than mere price lists. Some of them show
the bestowal of much thought and labor by able
men, in making them valuable as guides for
growing different flowers advertised in their
pages and in general garden management. As a
rule, the instructions given are safe to be follow-
ed, for no seedsman would be likely to advise a
course of treating his seeds that would result in
failure to the purchaser.
The weddings and receptions of the past week
made a considerable demand of cut flowers. In
no case were the displays of these very extensive,
but to an unusual degree choiceness of kind
marked the selections, and some high prices
were paid for individual baskets, A rarity for
this season of the year was made use of in snvera
Instances, in forced Lilac flowers. Jacqueminot
Uoses also lent their charms to the different dis-
plays, a quality which has been missed for
months from floral events.
It is diflieult to decide during this mid-winter
season which is the choicest of flowers cut in
such profusion in the villages of glass near New
York. Hybrid Roses, with their strength of stem
elegance of foliage, remarkable size, ami magni-
ficence of color; the "new" Roses that every
week astonish by beauty, freshly unfold-
ing as they become acclimated, or accus-
tomed to conditions: the winning wild flow-
ers, which have been forced to shake out
their fragile bells; such blossoms as Snow-
drops and Anemones; Orchids, with their
amazing shapes, splendid pencillings, and
fitful fragrance that comes and goes,
changing from "faint Lemon odors" to
ueavy permeating perfumes; or the great
spring flower crop that now, in vine, in
mish, and in blossoming bulbs, opens with
such a wealth of loveliness.
The bloom of Lilacs, both of French im-
portation and domestic varieties, is hardly
excelled, in grace, color, or fragrance, by
that of any other flowers. It is now several
years that Lilacs have been produced in
mid-winter. Dwarf plants of the variety
Charles X. are imported from France and
grafted on common or Chinese Privet, when
they generally thro w up one long shoot.
In the fall these plants are taken up and
potted and the shoot is cut back to five or six
eyes. The shoots from these eyes become the
flowering ones the following season; that is, they
are potted in the fall and grown a twelvemonth
by which time they are covered with flower-buds
and ready for forcing.
Forcing is then accomplished by placing the
plants in a greenhouse of uniform temperature
of eighty-five degrees, the plant being syringed
at least twice a day with tepid water. If plants
are put in the forcing house in November, they
require from three to four weeks to come into
bloom; but after New Year's, with a lower tem-
perature, say from seventy-flve to eighty
degrees, they will blossom in three weeks.
A cause of dissatisfaction with these early
forced pot-Lilacs is, that they bloom so abundant-
ly that they produce scarcely any leaf, and
besides, their stems are very short. They are
unprofitable except for selling as pot plants
There is another beautiful French Lilac that
can be successfully forced in winter— the pure
white "Virginal"; this expands large trusses of
perfect flowers, far finer than the common,
white ones. It may here be stated that the
Charles X. and all LiLacsmaybe made pure white
by growing them in a perfectly dark house.
A new Kochelle grower has blue-glass Lilac
houses; all the shades from pure white to deep
purple are brought out in Lilacs by management.
The domestic or common Lilac of the garden
is themost profitable to the florist of all the Lilacs
forced. If he can procure large overgrown
bushes that have remained undisturbed for
eight or ten years, these will serve him gener-
ously, yielding very readily to the forcing treat-
ment, giving long stems and usually plenty of
foliage and flowers. The French cultivate a
I variety in their summer gardens that they claim
I grows more freely than the common Syringa
I nd{iari.% our own spring-blooming shrub. They
call it Syringa dc Marley. It certainly flowers
much younger and more profusely than do the
aged bushes of the common sort with us.
Nothing can be more ornamental and delight-
fully-fragrant than the pots of growing Lilacs
now sent from the greenhouses for decorating
dwellings, which sell for from $2 to f2..50 each.
The tassels will hang for some time if the condi-
tions of the atmosphere are right, and although
expensive, these plants give great pleasure and
satisfaction.
A very elegant design in Lilacs was made for a
reception on Tuesday in East Twenty-fifth street.
A mound of shaded Lilacs three feet high was
formed in one corner of the drawing-room which
looked like a pyramid of foam. Upon the tassels
were perched white .Tava sparrows There were
groups of Palms and screens of foliage and rich
festoonings with Ivy and Ferns. The flowers
used were selected to match the colors of the
furnitui-e. There were twelve hand bouquets,
which included the choicest selection of Roses
and spring flowers. Each bunch was bound at
the stems with a hand-embroidered sash five
inches wide of same tint as the flowers.— Oftsenier.
86
POPULAR GARDENING.
January,
FRoH
TRE
SOCIETIES
lElWMATrERTIlAT DHSWtVE*
TO BEVnOBXYKMOWlC
Crandall Currant. I am
'not satisfied with it as a
dessert fruit —Gm.W. Trnw-
hriiliic.
Easpberry for Jelly. There
is no better for jam or jelly
than the Schaffer.— iV. Ohm-
er, Ohio.
Lucretia Dewberry, its habit of growth
makes it ot little value.— P. J. Berkmans Pres.
Am. Pdiiu Suriety.
Trinmpli Oooseberry. It is a great improve-
ment over any other variety that will grow in
our climate.— E Williams, N. J.
Flowing tinder Oreen Uannre. I put under
an immense crop of Black Peas withoutdiffleulty
by running a Disk harrow o\ er the vines.— T. O.
Ahcrnathy, Giles Co. Farmer's Association.
Planting Trees. In planting an orchard it is
a good plan to set the tree leaning considerably
to the southwest, it will be straight by the time
it is of sufficient age to bear.— £>i'. Bohinsoti.
Copperas for Grape Rot. Somebody claims to
have been very successful keeping out rot by
spreading common copperas under the vines,
and his testimony has been quite satisfactory.—
G. IT. Campbell, Ohio.
Pennsylvania State Horticultural Society
The annual meeting will be held in Mifflingtoivn,
Pennsylvania, January 15 and IB, 1890. This is in
the middle of the great Pennsylvania Peach belt.
It is expected that the usual reduced fare will be
granted by the railroad companies. For further
particulars, program, etc , address the secretary.
E. B. Engel, Marietta, Pa.
Apple Ladder. A light and useful Apple
ladder, cjuickly made, and easily handled by men
of light stature, is made of two spruce poles
two inches in diameter and fourteen feet long.
They are slightly spotted or cut on one side. The
rounds are nailed with two clinch nails at each
place and the ladder is made. The poles being
round are strong.— J. W. Tree.
drapes in Iowa. Eveiywhere in Towa the
leading varieties of the Labrusca type are profit-
ably and satisfactorily grown. Each year
emphasizes the necessity of thorough winter
protection for all varieties, no mattcrhow hai'dy.
by laying down and covering with soil before
severe freezing in autumn. Concord is every-
where grown more than any other, ripening
perfectly in all parts of the state.— Jm. Pom. Soc.
The Eelsey Plum. At the recent meeting of
the California State Horticultural Society it was
stated that Kelsey .lapan had sold most profit-
ably at the East, as it comes after Eastern Plums
are out of the way, and that its future seems as
well assured as can be. Mr. Williamson said he
had had excellent results by top-grafting the
Kelsey into the branches of old Apricot trees
thus securing large trees, while the Kelsey
worked on the Pe.ich in the nursery makes a
small tree.
Flowers for the Inexperienced. The following
varieties I would rei-commend as best adapted for
people of little or no experience : Phlox Drum-
mondi, Chinese Pinks. Sweet Peas, Pansics,
Sweet Alyssura, Verbenas, .\sters. Nasturtium,
Candytuft, Petunias, Balsams, Larkspur, Ten-
week Stock, Mignonette, and Portulaca. Some
of these. Phlox, Petunia, Portulaca, and Lark-
spur are self-seeding, and labor can be saved by
using the same bed, transplanting occasionally
in the spnag.— Minnesota State Hort. Society.
Planting Strawberries. Land which has been
in cultivation! a year or two is best. Plow this
early in spring as deep as possible ; then harrow
it over and over until a perfect seed-bed is form-
ed. Very thorough preparation of this kind will
show itself in ease of cultivation lat^r in the
season. I tell my men to harrow it over and
over, until they think they have done it
thoroughly, and then harrow just as much more.
I never had it o\'erdone. I ne\'er knew a farm
crop to be ruined b.v over-preparation.— X H. U.
Brightening Home. The most humble
home may be brightencfl and its coarse surround-
ings made attracti\'e by flowers. A neatly kept
border, or a bed gay with blossoms of even the
commonest varieties are certainly more pleasant
and restful to the tired wife and mother than an
untidy grassless yard, with fences down and pigs.
calves, and geese roaming at will, as seen so
often in the counlry. Half the time taken to
keep them out wonld be amply sufficient to cul-
tivate a few Hower^.— Minnesota State Bort. Soc.
Black Knot. Black Knot on the Plum may be
destroyed with a mixture of linseed oil, turpen-
tine and kerosene The kerosene must be used
with care, for if allowed to spread over the
branch it will destroy it Linseed oil alone, if
applied two or three times, answers the same
purpose, but the turpentine and kerosene make
it prompt and efficient. The time is when the
knot begins to make its appearance early in
summer and afterwards.— Pro/. Maynard befwe
the Maine State Pomoloyical Society.
Hedges for Windbreaks. I never had any
patience with the fellows who delight in telling
me that my*'hed;jes occupy too much room."
When I commenced improving this farm it was
all room — not a tree or a shrub upon a thousand
acres ; and to-day with twenty acres in orchards,
with seven miles of hedges, with a few acres in
groves of forest-trees, I have not a single twig
too much— not half enough— to meet what is an
equitable requirement that I should contribute
my share toward the amelioration of the climate
in winter, for the favoring of rainfall in summer,
and for the reasonable forethought and provi-
sion for those who are to come after me. — L.B.W.
Lutle Orape. J. Van Lindley, N. 0.: My dozen
vines ha\e now fruited two years, and I never
saw finer vines or fruit. They have no mildew
or rot. At our fair at Kaleigh the past season,
they were the equal of any kind on exhibition.
They are foxy when first colored, but very fine
in flavor when fully ripe. I consider it one of
the most valuable Gfrapes we have; it ripens
with the Delaware. H. E. Van Deman, D. C: I
received samples at two different times from
Nashville, and they were the worst-flavored and
smelling grapes I ever tasted.— Chas Parry, N. J.:
I am fruiting the Lutie, and find it no more foxy
or offensive than Berkett,s Amber, and that is a
very profitable Grape.— ^m. Pomological Society.
Dwarf Juneberry, The fruit is borne in
clusters like the Currant, and ripens in June.
Its size equals the wild Gooseberry; shape, round;
color, reddish purple at first, becomes a bluish
black when fully ripened. Its flavor approaches
the Huckleberry, a mild, very rich sub-acid.
Most people like its quality, and pronounce it
delicious. I had two or three bushes that fruited
several years in succession. In spring they are
a sheet of white, and ^ ery ornamental. The
fruit, which is borne in great abundance, is, to
my taste, better than Huckleberries. This species
varies widely in its wild state. I have found it
(the tall kind ) in fruit in Maine, but one of these
little bushes will bear as much as half a dozen of
the big ones.— Dr Geo. Thurljer,Ain. Pom,Society.
Planting Shrubbery. The first great advan-
tage of gardening with hardy flowers is that
every dollar spent is a permanent investment,
that yields increasing returns every year; so
that it only a small part of the money annually
spent in tender plants should be invested in
hardy shrubs, bulbs and roots ourgardens would
in few years be fairly o\'erflowing with beauty.
The second advantage is even greater. When
a carpet bed has been seen half a dozen times
that is all there is to it— it is the same old story.
But how different it is with a good selection ot
hardy plants; there will be hardly a day from
the last snow in March to the first blLszard in
December when we can not find something new
in our garden.— ('/ta«. Little before the W. N. Y.
Horticultural Society.
Peach Borer. Mr J. H. Hale stated before the
Maine State Pomological Society, that the grub
can be destroyed with caustic potash made into
a strong lye with the addition of lime and car-
bolic acid, to which a little arsenic is added, and
sometimes a little clay to make it adhere to the
tree. The earth is drawn awa.y from the foot of
the tree, and the mixture is applied with a swab.
Of a hundred thus treated not one was ever
attacked by the borer. Of the untreated trees,
not one in a hundred escaped. This remedy
costs much less labor than the old efficient one of
digging out with the point of a knife. The work
is done early in May, and the mixture should be
nearly as thick as paste Mr. Dunbar also stated
that he had tried this remedy with success, not
one tree in twenty-five being attacked where the
wash was applied.
On Lawn Making. A gross error is very pre-
valent in towns and cities; as when building is
being done, gravel, brickbats and other debris
are allowed to accumulate, and when improve-
ments are finished this rubbish is spread over the
lot and covered with a thin coat of light black
soil, and is considered good enough for grass and
flowers. 'Tis true, seeds will germinate in it,
and grass and flower-plants grow well on it for a
time, but when the strong ra.vs of the summer's
sun are concentrated on it for weeks in succes-
sion it will rapidly dry out and plants on it, bum
up, because they have no depth of root, or store
ot nourishment. All such material should be
collected together and carried away and replaced
with a good clay or loamy soil, to a depth of at
least two feet. A soil thus formed, when levelled,
graded and made fine and even on top, is well
adapted to support plants; it will permit their
roots to penetrate it deeply, and to spread in it
laterly; will absorb and retain moisture, with the
plant food it holds in solution, and can be re-
plenished anaually by top dressing: and when so
treated will retain its fertility and give good
results for years in succession. On such a soil
a beautiful lawn is easily formed by seeding
or sodding The latter is the speediest way, but
it has no other advantage, and is much more
costly. Seeding with bluegrass seed in March or
April soon makes a beatiful lawn, and b.v the
first of July, if sown thickly, the surface will be
covered with a nice green sward.— £)r. D. Mc-
Carthy before Montgomery Cimnty Hori. Society.
Pickings from the Columbus (Ohio)
Horticultural Society Meetings.
In a review of the season the fact was
brought out that weeds for some reason
have not given as much trouble this year as
usual. Either the seeds producecl the year
before had less vitality, or the conditions for
growth were in some way less favorable.
Much Bloom, Little Fruit. Another remark-
able feature of the season was the unusual a-
mount of bloom produced in Central Ohio by
plants of nearly every description, wild and cul-
tivated, annual and perennial, herbaceous, shrub-
by and tree-like. This unusual prolificacy in
blooming for two years in succession is probably
due to favorable conditions of fall growth, mild
winters, and a sufficient amount and equal dis-
tribution of rainfall during the spring months.
Whatever the causes, the promise seen in the a-
bundance of bloom was not verified in the har-
vest. This was particularly observable in the
case of the Apple and the Grape.
Most Profitable Apple. The requisities of a
good market Apple are as follows: 1. Fine ap-
pearance and, at least, fairly good quality. 3.
Productiveness; a profitable market Apple should
be an annual bearer. Some varieties bear only
once in two or three years. Five years ago an
Apple-grower near Columbus sold $25 worth of
Apples from a single tree of Belleflower. The
tree has not produced $5 worth during the five
years since. 3. Good shipping qualities. In many
parts of Ohio the Ben Davis and Rome Beauty
come the nearest to answering all of the above
requisites. In other parts of the state the North-
ern Si)y and Baldwin give the best cash results.
The Ideal Strawberry. The essentials of an
ideal Strawberry may be grouped under the fol-
lowing heads : 1. A large amount of each, and the
proper proportion of sugar and acid, i. e.. rich-
ness. 3. .\ good flavor. 3. Flesh melting, but firm^
without core or hollow. 4. Seeds small in size
and few in number. 5 Regular shape ; a conicaj
form is perhaps the best. ti. Moderate and nearly
uniform size. 7. Clear, pure color, no matter
what the shade. 8. The caly.x should part readily
from the fruit. 9. The plants should be hardy
of vigorous growth, able to resist rust, insect in-
jury or other forms of disease. 10. A tendency to
produce a moderate number of healthy runners.
New Insect Enemies. During the past sum-
mer two comparatively new and destructive
insects have been leported by members of the
Columbus Agricultural Society. One works upon
Rhubarb or Pieplant and the other infests the
root of the Strawberry. The former is a beetle
of the curculio type, and does its injury by punc-
turing the stem, where it deposits its eggs. These
hatch and the larvic or grubs bore or tunnel the
stalks. When abundant the plants are seriously
injured. The life history of this insect is not
fully known, and no remedies of a practical
nature have been suggested.
The other insect, a species of aphis, is called
the Strawberry root louse, and is doing serious
injury to the Sti-awberry plantations in Central
Ohio. It is a small, greenLsh louse that gathers
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
87
upon the root of the Strawberry in (Trent nuin-
liers and injures the plants by suckinp: the Juiecs.
The extent of the injury is vnriiible, depenciintf
upon the niuuber i>f the inseets and tlie condi-
tion of the phint. Certain varieties of the Straw-
berry appear to have a greater power to resist
this enemy than do others. This insect was first
noticed by Professor Forbes, of Illinois, and has
more recently been fully descriljed and named by
Mr. C. M. Weed, entomolotfist to the Ohio E.\-
l)eriment Station. Rotation has been suggested
as likely to prove the best remedy for this pest.
Care should also be taken in setting new planta-
tions to see that no infested plants are used, or
that the insects on them are killed. This may be
done by dipping the roots in kerosene emulsion.
Landscape Gardening.
Extract of paper read by Counvillor Barding at the
Preston and F>tlwood{EngIand)Hortictdtii7'atSoci€ty.)
Landscape gardening is an art of no mean
order. Broadly understood, it is the appli-
cation of art to nature. Nature in itself is
an e.xemplifier of progress, always chang-
ing, and like the sky, presenting scenes like
an ever changing kaleidoscope. "Nature
is hut art hidden from our view."
Country Homes. The landscape of the garden
must l^ made subser\nent to the buildings. In
the arrangement of the house, as a principle, the
li\'ing rooms should have east, south and west
aspects: stabling and out-buildings be on the
north-east; fruit and flower gardens placed on the
sunny side of the house, south and west; lawn
tennis fronting the drawing-room window.
The carriage drive from the public highway
should be as short as possible, provided, of course
sufficient space is left to secure privacy to the
house gardens, and pleasure grounds. The longer
the carriage drive or approach, the greater the
expense incurred in construction and making,
and in the constant repairing and mending.
Again, the longer and more circuitous or serpen-
tine in form, the more inaccessible during the
evenings, especially of dark foggy days. The
less of gravelled roads and appearance of gravel
the better— they are objectionable to the eye-
sight. Green is the natural color upon which
the eye should rest— the sight of sheep or cattle
in the park-like enclosure, sometimes found ad-
jacent to a villa, occupying three or four acres
as a site, presents a far more picturesque view
than turf cut up by a straggling carriage drive,
which, however beautiful in itself, mars and
spoils the scene. The foot paths communicating
with the main roads should be serpentine or
curved in form, save only in the kitchen garden,
where these should be straight.
Much judgment and care are required in the
planting and grouping of trees and plants, and
the laying out of flower beds, so that every step
you take may present to the eye a constantly
varying scene. These are the keynotes to the
whole. This is the finish that displays the skill
of the gardener, and embellishes the villa with
a charm that adds comfort to the house.
Public Parks. Parks in or adjacent to towns,
provided by corporations or private munificence,
are maintained for the enjoyment of ratepayers
and the public at large— to provide relaxation,
fresh air,exercise, pleasure, and enjoyment for all
sorts and conditions of men. First and foremost,
the approach to the park should be a main and
principal avenue and carriage drive, designed
and laid out both for position and views. .VII
parks should be laid out in such a manner as to
pro^nde a carriage drive through them. Orna-
mental water and rough stone-work laid to imi-
tate nature, effectually vary and improve the
scenes. A great addendum to our parks is music,
which always has and will lend a charm to our
landscapes. The sweet melody of our native
birds swell the music of our parks in early morn-
ing and early evening
Cemeteries, The introduction of landscape
gardening, its avenues, walks, trees, flowers, and
planting, has long been the custom of civilized
countries, to apply to the adornment of our
churchyards and cemeteries. There is to the
minds of most of us something very beautiful in
associating the works and products of vegetable
nature, as offerings to the memories of the dead.
Cemeteries require the hand and skill of the
landscape gardener to be exercised on a different
principle in the main to that of public parks. In
the fine, sunny, bright Sunday afternoons, our
public cemeteries are much frequented, by the
Inhabitants of the surrounding districts. In con-
tinental countries, especially in France, this is
notably so One day in the year, called La Joitr
(Ir Mnii^ is kept specially Siicred, the cemeteries
being greatly crowded above all other days.
The chaiiels in cemeteries, their relative posi-
tions and situations, guide and rule the positions
of the main avenues. Serpentine and curved
walks in cemeteries should, if ptissible, be avoid-
ed, save on hilly ground. The avenues and walks
should invariably, as a general principle, be
straight, forming squares and rectangles. At a
glance, this provides some regularity in position
of the spaces and ground to be used. A main
central avenue forms an imposing and effective
approach to the central chai>el, which, it is to be
hoped, will ere long suftice for classes and sects.
Admitting this principle, the next best adorn-
ment is the introduction of native forest trees,
choosing those best adapted for the district, from
our Oaks, Limes, Sycannires, Elms, Beeches,
Chestnuts, and a hosts of others— long-lived in
themselves, and which from generation to gen-
ei-ation throw out and form a dignity to the sur-
roundings.
The direction of the roads, avenues, and paths,
in their bearing to the compa.ss, must be regu-
lated by the highways and public approaches to
the cemetery.
Interim planting of shrubs, not forgetting an
abundance of evergreens— "something that lives
in winter"— trees and flowers should follow the
general line adapted in parks, care being taken
that no trees should be planted in positions that
would interfere with the advantageous use of
the ground.
All cemetery decoration by means of land-
scape gardening should be made subservient to
the general purpose for which cemeteries are
made and dedicated. Ornamental or fish ponds
should have no place in cemeteries. They should
only be introduced in the design and laying out
of parks. Ornamented seats can, with advantage,
be placed in the central or main avenues.
The careful pruning of trees, also order and
cleanliness of avenues, walks, lawns, and flower
beds are necessary alike in gardens, parks, cem-
eteries, and churchyards.
Market Gardening as a Business.
{Extract of paper read by Peter Henderson before the
Masschusetts State Board of Agriculture, Decem-
ber. 3rd, 1899.)
Market Gardening is not the profitable bus-
iness is was twenty years ago, yet we have
so simplified our operations o£ late years that
even at the lower prices there is still a fair
profit in the business — certainly more than
in ordinary farm crops.
If farmers whose lands are near to the smaller
towns, hotels, watering places and summer board
ing^houses, would devote a few acres to fruits or
vegetables, or both, there is scarely a doubt that
every acre so cultivated would be much more
profitable than if devoted to ordinary farm crops.
Xo one need hesitate to begin the cultivation of
either fruit or vegetables crops on any soil that
will raise a good crop of corn, hay or potatoes.
The farmer, who grows to supply a local demand
such as for hotels, boarding houses, &c., has a
great advantage in selling direct to the consum-
ers.
When it can be done, select land that is level
and well drained by having a gra\'eUy or sandy
subsoil, and not less than ten inches in depth of
good soil If you are not a judge of soil, observe
the farm crops in your neighborhood. If these are
not strong and vigorous, rest assured that the
soil will not answer for market garden work.
Again, get as near to your market as possible, and
see that the roads leading thereto are good. For
a local market this is not so important.
Labor, Capital, Etc. The business though
healthful and fairly profitable, is exceedingly
laborious. The labor is not what might be called
heavy, but the hours are long— not less than an
average of ten hours a da.v for both summer and
winter. No one should engage in it after having
passed middle life, neither is it fitted for men of
feeble constitution, for it is emphatically a bus-
iness in which one has to rough it, and if it is to
be prosecuted successfully the owner must put
his shoulder to the wheel at least as strongly as
his roughest employee.
The capital required for beginning market
gardening in the vicinity of any large city should
not be less than S30U per acre for anything less
than ten acres. The first year rarely pays more
than currant expenses, and the capital of $.300
per acre is all absorbed in horses, wagons, imple-
ments, sashes, manures, seeds, etc. If the capital
is insuthcient to procure these properly, the
chances of success of are correspondingly dim in-
ished. Above all be caivful not to attempt the
cultivation of more land than your capital and
experience can properly manage. More men are
strande<l, both on the farm and garden, in at-
tempting to cultivate too much, perhaps than
from any other cause.
Commercial Plant Growing. Of late years
greenhouses are being largely used in place of
hot-bed sashes, both for the purpose of forcing
Lettuce, Radishes, Beets and Cucumbers, as also
for growing plants of early Cabbage, Cauliflower,
Lettuce, Celery and Tomatoes; and in either case
we believe that in well constructed greenhouses
not only is the work better done, but that the
saving in labor in three yeitrs will more than
offset the greater cost of the greenhouses. We
ourseUes grow immense quantities of vegetable
plants of all kinds, all of which are now started
in greenhouses, in the following manner.
We make our first sowing February 1st, in our
greenhouses were the temperature will average
about 70°; that is, about 60° at night, and about
fO° during the day. A hot-bed, made with
manure, about two feet deep, in a proper manner
produces just about the same temperature and
general conditions as a well appointed green-
house will. We now invariably sow the seed in
shallow boxes (those used in the importation of
tin) which arel^ inches deep and about 20 inches
long by U wide. We use any light rich soil for
the purpose, sowing enough seed in each box to
produce 1000 to 1500 plants, or if sown in the hot-
bed, without the boxes, each 3x6 foot sash should
grow about 5000 plants.
The plants sown on February 1st will give
plants fit to transplant in about three or four
weeks. We then use the same kind of shallow
boxes, putting in the bottom of each about ^ of
an inch of well-rotted manure. Over that we
place an inch of any ordinary rich light soil,
smoothing it so as to have it as level as possible.
In these boxes, which are l-tx20 inches, we put an
average of about 1.50 plants. They are then con-
tinued to be grown in the same temperature for
about ten days ; afterwards placed in a tempera-
ture averaging 55°, where they are allowed to
remain tor ten or twelve days, and finally placed
in cold frames. The boxes should be placed as
close to each other in the cold frames as they
will stand,— about eight boxes fill a sash, thus
holding about 1200 plants. If the weather is cold
they are matted; if not the sash will be suflScient
protection. For the past five years we have each
season grown about half a-million of Cabbage,
Cauliflower, Celery and Lettuce plants in this
way, and have never failed to get fine plants,
much superior to those raised by the old cold-
frame plan of sowing in the fall.
Plants sown on the 1st of February are trans-
planted into the boxes 1st of March, and
are fit to be placed in the cold-frames March
10th or 15th, and make fine plants to trans-
plant to the open ground any time after the 1st
of April, if they have been carefully attended to
by watering, airing and protecting from frost.
These dates refer particularly to the vicinity of
New York City. In districts where they can-
not be planted out sooner than the end of .\pril,
then the sowing should not be made before the
15th of February, and the process of transplant-
ing, etc , gone through as before stated, so that
the plants will be in condition to plant in the
open ground by end of April. In sections where
Cabbage cannot be planted in the open ground
before the 1st of May, the sowing should be
delayed until near March, and the process of
transplanting in the boxes or frames the same.
Rotation. Manure, etc. Twenty-five .years
ago the market gardeners of New Jersey, grew
better vegetables than the Long Island men, but
they do not now average as good those grown in
districts adjacent to New York, where the land is
cheap enough to allow one-third to be put down
annually with some grass or ilover crop. I
believe that in a garden of fifteen acres, if one-
third is laid down in grass each year, and the
balance kept under the plough, that the gross
receipts will be greater and the profits more
than if the whole fifteen acres were under tillage.
The ordinary stable manu re is yet used almost
exclusively by the market gardeners Co., N. J.,
and that too at the rate of seventy-five tons to
the acre. Very little phosphates or other con-
centrated manures are used on our lands, which
are continually under tillage : these are always
more telling on land broken up from sod, where
the fibrous roots of the sod stand in lieu of
stable manure.
88
POPULAR GARDENING.
January,
The Cause of Low Prices of Fruit
and the Remedy.
\E.rlrart of paver b// r. W. hiell read before the N. J.
State Hortievlturol Soeiety.]
The cultivation of fruit in this Country has
attained such proportions that, if we are to
believe the statements of some growers, it is
no longer profitable. If this is true we
should investigate the cause and then like
sensible men apply the remedy.
The cause of this depression in prices, I think,
is the production of such large iiuantlties of poor
fruit, which must be sold for a i>rice less than the
cost of production; thousands of quarts of Ber-
ries, tons of unripe Grapes, thousands of barrels
of Apples, Pears, and Quinces which are not fit
for consumption are sent to the market with the
idea of getting some price for them.
Growers make a great mistake in shipping un-
ripe Grapes to market, for at this time of year
the market is fully stocked with other varieties of
ripe fruit, and there is but little demand for the
ripe Grapes, and none for the imripc. The con-
tinued shipping of the inuipe Grapes to market
has the effect of; depressing the prices for a time
after the ripe Grapes replace the unripe. If such
varieties as the "Champion", "Hartford", and
"Elvira" were exterminated from our vineyards
and only the later varieties cultivated and allow-
ed to ripen before being picked, the growers
would realize a greater profit from his vineyard
than he now does; or if these sour varieties were
permitted to ripen it would add to their value as
then they might be sold for wine. Each grower
vies with the other to get his grapes on the mar-
ket first, and the consequence is that the returns
on the sale of the fruit do not pay for the labor
expended upon it.
Premature, wormy and imperfect Apples,Pears
etc., are another objectionable feature in the
trade, and the continued shipjiing of these fruits
has the same effect upon the market as noted
aljove in speaking of \mripe Grapes. It would
unquestionably be far better to keep this fruit at
home and send to market only the ripe and per-
fect kinds. Not only would better prices be ob-
tained, but the chance of having the fruit seized
ti.v the agents of the Board of Health would be
reduced to a minimum. Each year these agents
seize large quantities of unripe fruit and there is
no redress for the shipper.
During the Sti-awberry season there are many
dealers from other cities whose business is to ship
to their customers, and I have frequently henrd
these men say that "Although there arc so many
berries in market, we cannot procure enough de-
sirable stock to fill our orders." The remedy, in
my opinion, would be to plant less acres, to devote
more care in securing fruit of a better qualit.v,
and cease shipping premature and unripe fruit.
Producers .should remember that the taste of
consumers is becoming cultivated and now the
demand is for the best fruits. Each year it is
more difficult for dealers to dispose of the im-
mense quantities of inferior fruits.
Frequently the form of a package is objection-
able to the purchasei-s, and one who aims at suc-
cess in fruit oultin'e must meet the wants of pvu-
chasers. Of late years the gift packages have be-
come so popular that many refuse to buy fruit
in package on which a deposit is required Choice
fruit sells better in small gift packages than in
larger ones. Some growers ship their poor fruit
in these small packages thinking that if the size
of the package affects the price secured for good
fruit it will also help the price of poor; but that
is a mistake.
To establish a reputation the grower m ust give
the packing of the fruit his personal attention,
for some employees think it folly to be so partic-
ular. The result is that the brand is ruined with-
out the knowledge of the owner.
A. careless person can do much harm by driving
over rough places without any regard to the ten-
der character of the fruit. I would suggest to
the shippers of tender fruit that they follow their
drivers occasionally to the station and examine
the fruit before it leaves for the market. I know
from personal experience that a large amount is
injured in this way that is attributed to the trans-
portation companies.
Another essential point for the shipper to con-
sider is the selection of acommission merchant to
sell his fruit. This being done he will do well to
inform the merchant of varieties and (luautity of
each fruit he proposes shijiping, and to obtain all
the information he can upon the best methods of
preparing and shipping the fruit; also the kinds
of puckaires to be used in order to place the'fruit
upon the market to the best advantage.
The dealer is generally much better informed
on these points than the shippers, who would fre-
quently save mone.v if they would consult with
the merchants more frequently. Every shipper
should be on the most friendly terms with his
dealer as their interest is mutual.
No shipper should hesitate to ask for the infor-
mation he needs, or take offense when the dealer
points out the defects in package or custom of
packing. I consider it a part of his duty to note
and inform his patrons of these deficiencies, yet
I have frequently known persons to get angry at
their dealers for mentioning these items and quit
shipping to them. One of the great mistake ship-
pers make is to keep their dealers in ignorance of
the quantity, or time he intends to ship.
If the shipper Iiad notified the dealer of the
quantity he proposed shipping the latter could
have instructed him as to the quantity to send at
once. Not only this, but the dealer could proba-
bly have arranged with his customers to take it
on arrival, at liberal prices. One curious feature
of the fruit trade is that tlie shippers demand a
daily report of sale from the dealers, yet at no
time during the season do some give the dealer
one notice of their intentions— of the quantity
they intend to send, and be it little or much, a full
price is always expected. It does not seem to en-
ter the mind of some that the non-arrival of the
usual quantity affects the dealer, or may be a
disappointment to the purchaser who had been
accustomed to get it regular.
Onions From Sets.
[Extract of paper by J. S. Qray, read before the Min.
nesota Horticultural Society. ]
Land should be manured in the fall at the
rate of seventy-five tons of cow manure to
the acre. Now the feed of the cows from
which we obtain the manure is largely nitro-
genous, being bran, shorts and ground
cockle from the flour mills. In growing a
crop requiring so much nitrogen as does the
Onion the manure from the cows fed as
above stated has always given good results.
We prefer to plow in the fall it convenient; if
not, as soon as possible in the spring. In spread-
ing the manure should be well broken up. AVe
sometimes do this with a harrow and roller, going
over several times if necessary, so that when
plowed and harrowed the manure will be in fine
particles and well mixed up with the soil. The
laud being plowed, harrowed ami planked down,
we mai'k with a twelve inch marker and stick
the sets three inches apart and down a little be-
neath the surface. After planting we tread the
rows with our feet, heel to toe, right on top of
the sets; the pressure firms the sets and breaks
up any little clods of soil that otherwise might
in a dry time cause a drying out at the roots.
The planting being done, in a few days we take
a steel rake and rake lightly over the whole
pat<.:h, which can easily be done without disturb-
ing any of the sets if the work thus far has been
done as before advised. This raking makes an
even, mellow surface and destroys all surface
sprouting weeds, which in Onion culture is t)f
the greatest importance. When the sets have
become well rooted we apply a top-dressing of
dry wood ashes or of wood ashes and bones, the
ashes and bones having been previously packed
in barrels and sufficiently moistened with water
to reduce the bones to small particles as fine iis
if ground. The rains will leach the ashes and set
loose such an amount of plant food from the
manure that the crop will now be seen to grow
exceedingly rai>id. Wheel-hoeing and weeding
will now be in order until such time as the crop
is large enough to market. The pulling, clean-
ing, tying and marketing will cost five cents per
dozen bunches, and we are satisfied that with
every convenience for doing this work it cannot
be done for less. The sets will cost at g.'i.OO
per bushel, ten bushels per acre, $5.5.
Varieties. The market gardener must raise
such \'arietics as his market demands. The Min-
neapolis market demands a white Onion, there-
fore we grow almost exclusively the White Port^
ugal with a small quantity of Yellow Strasburg,
to come in a few days earlier.
The sets which we prefer to all others are those
grown on the Landrcth Jersey l''arm. The stjil
there is poor and light manured, if we may call
it manure, with Philadelphia coal ashes. The
ashes, we ^presume, are used more tor their
chemical effect than as a manure. The Cincin-
nati sets we consider the next best. The sets
grown here do fairly well, but the Jersey sets
Invariably produce fewer seed stems and the
finest bulb. By the .seventeenth o[ July the crop
is all marketed. If there" should be any proba-
bility of not selling the whole crop in the green
state we go between the rows with a cultivator
and throw a little soil up into the bulbs. This is
done as a protection from the hot sun, and if not
done the bulbs would quite likely turn green and
their market value be very much reduced.
The Onion crop being now cleared off the
ground is plowed and prepared for a second crop,
which may consist of Celery, Celeriac, Thyme,
Sage, Winter Radishes and White Turnips. Some-
times we have raised an excellent crop of Early
Horn Carrots.
Shrubbery for the Northwest.
\Extract of 2>(ll'er read by A.B. Austin, before the
Society of Northern Illinois.'}
In planting shruljbery, first get the har-
diest varieties, those that are known to
stand in your vicinity the various vicissi-
tudes of the seasons and try the tender later.
Do not get large or fully grown plants, they
require to much time too overcome their
removal and again get established, thereby
liable not to give good satisfaction ; but
always commence with small or medium-
sized plants and as they grow the interest
in them will increase.
It is very discouraging to fail in our first
effort, very often causing an abandonment of
the field. Do not set the plants in a sod and leave
them to take care of themselves, for they will
surely die, but they must be placed where you
can spade around them and give to them at least
as much care as to a hill of Corn or Potatoes ;
they need no more eidtivation than those, but
surely need as much. I often recommend to
those setting, that a border of flowers or fiower
bed be placed around them for several years
after setting so as to insure care, the care to the
flower's insures the care of the shrubs. When
shrubs are planted in masses, for the fii-st few
years it is a very good plan to plant bulbs and
perennials among them to insure cultivation.
We have our grounds in which the shrubs, etc.,
are planted, spaded every year in June and hoed
several times after through the season. For
best I'csults, plant shrubs in masses and as soon
as they begin to crowd, thin them, taking the
poorest and lea\ing the best and rarest. Shrubs
generally grow hardier for a while with age, so
that with care in protecting them for a few years
many will endure a much lower temjierature
than in their infancy.
Shelter Belts. About five miles from where I
reside is a Wiegelia rosea, thirty yeai^s old, eight
or ten feet in height, and when I last saw it in
bloom it was a sight worth going several miles to
see. This plant was protected awhile. Protec-
tion from our cold, dry west and south west
winds is desired; it is as much the cold, dry winds
in winter as intense cold that destroys plants.
The planting on the south or south west side of
a building is not generally an advantage, the
heat of the mid-day sun, especially in winter on
the trunk, t)r trunks very often is injurious ;
would prefer to shade them, especiall.v those not
fully hardy, to prevent injury to the bark from
constant thawing and freezing. A belt of ever-
greens on the west side of the lawn or grounds
will be found of great advantage to shrubs and
to all living beings.
I speak of this from knowledge. A small
Cladastris (Yellow Wood), struggled on, on my
place, for a long time. The winter would take
off what was gained in the summer, until a belt
of Siiruce became high enough to shelter it from
the west wind. It has since put on a robust,
healthy look and now is as vigorous a tree as I
ha\e ; also a Daphne, a little sheltered, has been
growing and blooming for the last sixteen years,
always the first to greet us in the spring with its
fragrance and beauty luitil it seems almost like
one our household.
Selecting Shrubs, Two objects should be held
in view; first, bloom and second, good foliage.
During the season, some consider the latter the
greater object, but plants thatj both bloom well
and hold their foliage are to be preferred. With
a little care and patience insects can be over-
come. If attacked by worms, slugs or other
leaf eatei-s, syringe with water in which Paris
green has been mixed, but if attacked b.v aphis,
more patience will be recjuircd, but they wiU
sooner or later leave.
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
89
It is well to Ix" sin>ic'ii>iis (if all shrubs that come
from Africa, Oiina. Japan, Southoni Huroiic anil
Southern North Amorira. < >e«isionally we t^ot
a haniy shruh from theiu and a tine one, but
the.v art' the exception. The rule is for them to
be tenilcr here, lie also a little cautious about
buying new, Strang and wonderful plants of
strangers who have something your nursery-
man cannot get. The I'hilatliliiliu.-: (t'ommon
Syrintrai are all hardy and Rood bloomers,
either fnigrraut or not, accortiiuif to variety, and
hold their foliage well. We cannot do without
it. The Golden-leaved (awrcal is tine, hctlds its
color well and makes a low, compact shrub,
tine for fancy hedges. All golden-foliaged trees
and shrvibs must have full-light.
ioHifoin, Tartarin}!, or Tret Himcy»ucklc\sa
fine shrub, very hardy, blooms freely, followed
by red or yellow berries which remain uutil fall
In color of bloom we have pink, red with white
striiK-'S, white and creaiu color, according to
variety. It should be planted much more than
it is. Sedebouri, a variety from California, may
lie tender. Syringa ( Lilacs ', all I have tried, are
hardy. The only fault is its tendency to sprout
from the root. The Persian and Josikea are
free from this fault. Among the new forms is a
weejier, having a white bloom and has to be
grafted standartl height, and one the Tree or
Giant Lilac, making a tree with a single smooth
trunk twenty or more feet high, blooming in
.ful.v. We have reason to believe they will be
hardy here.
Viburmims are, as far as tried, all hardy with
one exception ; most of them are natives and
of various characteristic, making them desirable.
The Snow-ball, Viburnum sterilis, belongs to this
class. The variety, santonoides, is deser\nng a
place in every yard; blooms well and has a fine
leaf ; blossom-bud very conspicuous in the fall.
Viburnum plicatum from China, often called
.Tapan Snow-ball, is tender, even the roots are
destroyed by frost. The little Flowering Almond
we must have, although not fuUy hardy; abiiut
three years out of five, we get an abundance of
bloom; the roots always survive.
Hydrangea (paniculata gi'antliflora) is perfectly
hardy; grows with me five feet high, with a fine
spreading top; is a fine, if not the finest, late-
blooming shi'Ub we have, with its large heads of
white bloom in August and September. It is
very attractive. It is well to keep it well-
trimmed and in a growing condition. The flowers
are on the new wood.
Eusea rugn^a is a new variet.v of Rose from
Africa. It can, and, no doubt, will, be used as a
shrub, and will give good satisfaction There
are three colors, white,rose and red. The flowers
are large, often three or more inches in diameter
and fine in color; followed by bright berries,
foliage dense and good, remaining until late,
often changing to crimson in the fall. Plants
have been produced with double Roses by hybri-
dizing. These, with its complete hardiness, can
not fail to make it a favorite.
Chkmaiithu." (Whit« Fringe) is one of the best
of shrubs, with leaves like the Laurel, shining
A NOVEL FLOWER STAND.
all summer, as it varnished, a delicate white
bloom in spring and as hardy as an Ash tree.
Among the hardy shrubs, will be found the
following: Berberries (both common and purple),
Tellow, Flowering Currant, Purple Fringe iPhus
cotinus). Snow Berry (or Wax berry ), Cornus
sanguinea and the Siberian varieties, nearly all
the Spireas, and Daphne.
CONDENSED GLEANINGS.
A Cheap lean-to Oreenhoiue. If those who
cultivate house-plants knew how much better
they can be grown in a room by themselves
where the torai>ci*ature and moisture can be
regulated to suit their wants, there would l)e
more small greenhouses. It is possible, and easy,
to build a lean-to house eight by twelve feet,
and eight feet high at the highest part and live
feet at the lowest, for less than a hundretl dollars.
In a house of this size all the plants can be
grown that most amateurs would find time to
take care of. Of course it would be necessary
to furnish the heat for such a house from the
dwelling with which it would have to be con.
nected by double doors, which could be thrown
open at night. The walls can be made of posts
set in the ground as one would set fence posts,
taking care to set them low enough to reach
below the frost-limit, to prevent heaving. These
should be set about two feet apart. All the
posts should be of the same thickness, boarded
up, outside and in, with cheap, matched lumber,
over which a layer of tarred sheathing-paper
should be tacked. Then give the Inside a ceiling
with cheap lumber, and the outside a finishing
of clapboards. In this way .vou get snug walls,
with an air-space between, which will keep out
frost more effectually than a brick wall. The
vertical sash can be made like regular window-
sash, or strips can be fastened perpendicularly
into which glass can be set, lapping it as it is
commonly done on greenhouse roofs.— ^?n«rica 11
Agriculturist.
Thawing Frozen Groand, To thaw frozen
ground, says Building, use fresh slacked lime
over the ground to be opened. Water to be used
as little as possible; about eighteen pounds of
water to fifty-six pounds of lime will be the pro-
per proportion. More wat*fr would absorb a part
of the produced heat. The slacked lime should
stand on the places in paste form about eight
hours. To prevent the water from running off
the place has to be properly surrounded by sand.
As soon as the lime begins to slake it must be
covered with a thin layer of sand, or old bags.
A hole 3 feet by 3 feet and a depth of 3 feet will
require five bushels of hme. The thawing should
be commenced the night before the day the work
is to be done, in order to reduce expenses. For
work which must be rapidly done, as in case of
broken water-pipes, the above quantity of lime
must be doubled, in which case three hours
would be sufficient to penetrate through the
frost. The process must t>e repeated, if the lime
does not thaw through, after the loose ground
has been removed. The heat so produced is
about 100 degrees C, and will therefore not affect
stone-paving, which coal and wood fires will do.
Andromeda Speciosa, This is one of the most
showy-fiowered of all the Andromedas. The
flowers are pure white in drooping racemes, the
individual flowers often measuring one half au
inch across. It is a native of North Carolina to
the Pine. barrens of Florida and is usually found
growing in low swampy ground. This handsome
species was introduded into Europe about the
year 1800, where ever since it has been much
appreciated, and it is much more easy to find
plants in European nurseries than in American
ones. This shrub is of slow growth, usually
flowering at four years from seeds. It requires
careful handling during the first year, but after
that it is comparatively easy to manage As the
fashion of forcing shrubs is growing this would
be a plant which, if once introduced, would be
much sought after. It flowers about the same
time as Dsutzia gracilis, and as all ericaceous
plants lift easily when well grown it could be
potted in late fall and kept in a cool pit until
wanted. By hauling a supply it could be had in
bloom from February till June. — Jack Dawson,
in Florist.
Winter Lettuce There is no difficulty at all
with this crop, with low houses, heated with hot
water or steam. One end of the benches is used
for seedbed, from which plants are obtained,
and as fast as one crop is cut, the soil is turned
over, some manure added, and a new crop put
in. At least three crops can be obtained during
one winter. They are set quite thick, three or
tour inches apart, and grow upright, rather than
spreading. All are partially bleaehed by the
process, and just as soon as large enough are
tender enough and fit for market. A tempera-
ture of 55° at night is about right, rising fifteen
degrees to twenty degrees during the day. The
principal enemy is the green fly. Tobacco stems
distributed among the growing plants help a
great deal in keeping these down, which, with
fumigation regularly once a week, whether any
can be seen or not, will do the rest. If green
flies once get a firm foot hold, tbey^are difficult to
get rid of them. In this case an ounce of pre-
vention is better than any cure.— PrairieFarmer.
Preserving Grape Juice, Those who have what
is rare, namul.v, more than the family wants to
eat of (Jrapes well-ripene)l, because from vines
well-fed, well-pruned, and well-thinned, can pre-
serve all the .iuice in sweet condition for years
by simply heating it to 140 degrees and sealing
close, as in preserving fruit. Thei-e will be no
fermentation, if the sealing is secure. Some re-
commend the raising of the heat to the boiling
A CHEAP LEAN-TO GREENHOUSE,
point, but it is unnecessary and alters the flavor
more; 1.30 degrees really suffices to destroy the
germs of fermentation. Some heat the Grapes
after stemming and sorting, as it softens the pulp
and makes it much easier to press out all the
juice. By dipping the bulb of a small thermom-
eter, such as is used for cream or soil, into the
neck of a bottle while standing in the boiler it
can readily be seen when the proper temperature
is attained,— N. T. Tribune.
Crescent and Wilson Strawberries. I seriously
doubt whether Jessie, or Sharpless either, will
give as much fruit per plant as Crescent and
Wilson, and perhaps some others. Our objection
to the Crescent is the small size; but a great many
of our customers this summer decidedly prefer
the small berries to the great large ones, which
some say are tasteless. Bubach is certainl.v a
massive berry. We have single leaves that would
cover a pint bowl, and the berries are monsters.
But they are all gone after one or two pickings,
while the Crescent, with its great clusters of small
berries, still keeps the pickers busy. Sometimes
1 think there is no better berry, all things consid-
ered, than the old Wilson. Then again I am in-
clined to favor Crescent. Finally I decide that
no berry patch is complete without half a dozen
or, better still, a dozen of the popular kinds.—
Gleanings in Bee Culture.
No Danger in Good Frnit. Some people are
afraid to eat fruit, thinking that fruit and
diarrhcea are always associated. 'Tis true that
fruit eaten green or between meals will interfere
with digestion and cause bowel trouble ; but use
fruit that is perfectly ripe at mealtime, and only
beneficial results will follow. Fruit is a perfect
food when fully ripe, and if it were in dail.v use
from youth to age there would be less gout, gall-
stones and stone in the bladder. There are many,
however, who can not eat it, on account either
of the acidity of the fruit or the excess of sugar
to make it palatable. Sugar does not, counteract
acidity ; it only disguises it— Medical Classics.
Novel Flower Stand. Orange Judd, farmer,
gives the plan of a flower stand so arranged that
the plants will be hidden from view. Our illus-
tration represents a cross section. It is made in
the usual manner, plain or fancy, as may be de-
sired, only with this difference that upright
boards are added which reach just a little above
the top of the pot on each shelf. Another little
strip is nailed on the top of the upright as shown
in illustration. This is for large and medinm-
sized plants. For small plants the stand may be
slightly altered, bringing the upper part of the
pots to view, and hiding only the lower one- half
or two-thirds of them.
Soil for Plants in Pots. The best soil for plants
in pots is to be found in well-rotted turf, or at
least sufficiently rotted to destroy the life in the
roots of the grass, then the coarser the better, as
the growing plants wUl consume it as wanted.
The provident gardener or amateur will always
have a pile of sods in some out-of-the-way place,
where it will decay and be ever-ready for potting
purposes. Some of the best Rose growers in our
country use nothing else for their young Roses,
and there can be nothing better; others, in piling
up the sods, alternate the layers with stable man-
ure. This makes a good compost, but is a con-
genial home for worms and grubs which are de-
structive to the plants. For the best results use
sod only, and make an occasional application of
90
POPULAR GARDENING.
January,
Orafting tlw Grape
some reliable concentrated plant food, but use
in moderation.— American Agriculturist.
Grafting the Grape. A new way of grafting
the Grape is doscnbcd in Rural New Yorker.
The work is done
not earlier than
late in June, on
stocks half to
three-fourths of
an inch in dia-
meter. A slit is
cut upwards and
a sinii lar one
downwards in
the stock at any
con\-enien t
height above the
ground, and the
graft is cut with
a bow-iike bend,
which keeps it
tightly in place.
The grafts are
tied with rubber
bands a tiuarter
to three-eights of
an inch wide,
pretty tightly, or
they are wrapped tightly with tin-foil cut in
strips half an inch wide, rubbed down closely as
the wrapping proceeds, then over the foil they
are wrapped tightly with soft cotton wrapping
yarn; then the stock between the ends of the
graft is tied tightly with hard cord.
Pruning Northern Spy. Northern Spy Apple
trees need more thorough pruning than any
other variety of Apple. If severely pruned while
the buds are dormant the tree will grow with ex-
traordinary vigor for two or three years there-
after, to the neglect of fruit bearing. This has
led some farmers to deprecate pruning the
Northern Spy. If they will do it while the tree
is in leaf, say in May, the wounds will heal
quickly and there will be siitficient check to
growth t(i induce the formation of fruit buds.—
American (.'ultivator.
Spreading Manure in Winter. Manure made
in the winter should, when it is possible, be
spread as it is made, on the land where it is to be
used. Manure is never worth more than it is the
liay it is made. Nothing is added to it, but
usually much is lost from it by lapse of time.
Except on steeply-sloping ground, the manure is
safe from all danger of loss, and is put where it
will do the most good when it is spread upon the
land direct frum the stable.— Am. Agriculturist
Pofltholea in Hardpan. I recently had oc-
cassion to dig a pit for a greenhouse-furnace and
found the hardpan subsoil so hard as to be veiy
difficult to dig. Saturday night overtook us
when there was yet ten inches of almost impen-
etrable ground to dig. I turned the hose into
the hole and pumped in about three inches of
water. By Monday morning it had disappeared,
and we removed the earth as easily as one re-
moves the first "spit" of a sod.— N, Y. Tribune.
The Kieffer Pear. On the first introduction of
this variety, no extravagant claims were made
fur the fruit for table use or for eating out of
hand. Its main features were claimed to be a re-
markable vigor of growth, and the value of fruit
for preserves. It has sustained its reputation
and the claim made for it much better than some
other introductions which we know of.— Ameri-
can Garden.
Tomatoes Under Glass. In forcing Tomatoes
I prefer seedling plants, except of the Dwarf
(Jhampion, which does better from cuttings than
any others I have tried. I am inclined to think
more fruit can be gotten from a given area of
glass by growing them in pots than in any other
way.— W. h\ M., in American Garden.
Raspberry and Blackberry Hybrids. We have
a dozen of these hybrids which have not yet
fruited, but those which have fruited give little
or no promise that anything of value will ever
come from the hybridism beyond the interesting
fact itself. —Rural New Yorker.
Paint the Tree Wounds. Water sprouts from
grafted Apple trees may be ti'immed off during
any time in the year, but if done in the fall or
early winter it will be best to paint over the
wounds with linseed oil paint, if the woimds are
very large.
Vegetable Novelties. If one in five or ten of
the new sorts is an improvement on the old kinds,
the gardener should know it; the only way to
get the knowledge is to try.— Am. Agriculturist
Straw ior Protection. When you take vegetables
from an out door pit, which is sometimes possible this
mouth, press plenty of straw into the hole. Straw is a
wonderful protector from frost.— Farm Journal.
Moonflower Not New. The common and much
advertised "Moonflower" plant sold by florists, and
Ipomtea bona-box grown from seed (dark In color) are
indistinguishable.— Wm. Falconer.
Phosphate in Florida. Florida promises to be dis-
tinguislied as the greatest phosphate producing State
In the country.— Florida Dispatch.
Black Walnuts in Market. Not much use In send-
ing Black Walnuts to market. They do not bring
much.— Western Rural.
Early Pruning. If we begin the young tree right
and follow it up, they never need severe pruning.—
Farm and Home.
Annuals from Slips. ZInnlasand Nasturtiums take
root quite readily.— Florida Dispatch.
Vegetable Products on the Table.
Potatoes. To really enjoy a good Potato have
it baked.
Cranherries. They are said to keep all winter
in water.
Onions and Tomatoes. A ring or two of Onion
added to Tomatoes when they are put on to stew
improves the flavor to some tastes.
Celery Stew, t-ut the stalks and root into
small pieces and stew till t^^nder in as little water
as will sutfice. Then add a little milk and butter
and thicken with Hour to make a nice sauce
Fried Raw Potatoes. Pare and slice thinly
into cold water some medium-sized Potatoes,
dx-ain in a colander and put into a frying pan in
which is two tablespoons melted butter ; cover
closely ten minutes, stirring until lightly brown-
ed.^Am. Cultivator
Squash. Bake one-half of a good-sized Hub-
bard Squash until soft. Remove the seeds and
scoop out the remainder with a spoon into a
heated dish Mash flue, add butter and salt.
Arrange daintily in the dish in which it is to be
served.— Good Housekeeping
Celery for Garnishing. Cut the stalks into
two-inch lengths ; stick plenty of coarse needles
into the top of a cork; draw half of the stalk
of each i>iece of celery through the needles
When all the fibrous parts are separated, lav the
Celery in some cold place to curl and crisp —
Good Housekeeping.
Hickory Nut Cake, IH cupful of sugar, }4
cupful of butter, }4 cupful of sweet milk, 1 cup-
ful of meats, 2 cupfuls of tlour, 14 teaspoonfuj
of soda, 1 teaspoonful of cream tartar ; the
whites of four eggs. Beat sugar and butter to a
cream ; beat eggs to a froth, then add eggs to
sugar and cream; then add milk with soda and
cream tartar,add 1 cupful of flour, then one cup-
ful of moats.
Cabhage Salad. Take half of a good-sized
Cabbage and chopping ^ery fine, first taking out
all the core. Take half a cup of vinegar, four
or five tablespoonfuls of sugar, a pinch of salt
and mustard enough to suit the taste, and mix
together. Then pour over the Cabbage, also add
two hard-boiled eggs finely chopped. If pro-
curable, a little Celery is good chopped in with
the Cabbage. This placed in a glass dish looks
very pretty, and is palatable.— Am. Cultivator.
Apple Omelet. Pare, core and stew six large,
tart Apples as for sauce; beat them very smooth
while hot, adding one teaspoon of butter, six
tablespoons of white sugar. Nutmeg to taste,
and one teaspoon of Rosewater; when quite cold
add three eggs, beaten separately very light,
putting in the whites last; pour into a deep
pudding dish, previously warmed and well
buttered. Season to taste, Bake in a moderate
oven until it is delicately browned. Eat warm,
but not hot.
Fruit Pudding. Chop six Apples fine, grate
six ounces of stale bi-ead, add six ounces of
brown sugar, six ounces of Currants washed
; carefully and tioured; mix all well together with
six ounces of butter, a cupful of milk and two
cupfuls of flour in which two teaspoonfuls of
baking powder have been thoroughly mixed, if
too thick, add mtu-e milk in mixing. Spice to
your taste. Put in a pudding bag, tie loosely
and boil for three hcmrs. To be eaten with cold
sauce made of b\itter and sugar stirred together
a cupful of sugar to one-half eupful butter.—
Indiana Farmer.
Apple Butter. The Apples are pared, cored,
cut and boiled in sweet cider till the whole is a
dark, rich pulp and the cider is reduced one-half.
No sugar is needed, for the fruit furnishes its
own sweetness. Half the Apples may be sour
and half sweet, or all sweet as one likes It takes
nearly two gallons of cider to make one of Apple
butter, and spices are added or not, to taste.
Spice it with one tablespoonful of Cinnamon
and one-third of a teaspoonful of ground Cloves
to each gallon of Apple butter, added when it is
taken up, boiling hot It may be kept in barrels
stone pots, or butter firkins and boxes.— F- J.
HOUSE PLANTS.
Annuals in Pots make a fine decoration for the
window, and now is the time to sow the seeds. Nemo-
phila, with it abundance of light blue flowers, Is one
of the best, as it likes a shady place. Candytuft,
Sweet Alysum, and Mignonette, are useful for cutting.
The Canary-bird Flower is an annual climber, and use-
ful to train up the window from the Inside, or later,
upon the outside, and to trail over the balcony.
Begonias. The Rex varieties do best In moist heat,
and all are among the best of hou.se plants. Should be
kept In a light position, but properly out of full and
direct sunlight.
Bulbs that were potted last fall should be well
rooted by this lime, and If brought Into light, and
given water, will soon be In bloom. Of course the
potted bulbs always have to be kept In a cellar or
other dark,cooI place until the roots are well developed,
and they should not be brought to the light before.
Cut the flower stalks off the earlier one.s when done
blooming. Bulbs need plenty of water. Hyacinths
and Crocus will even do nicely with their roots en-
tirely In water.
Camellias should be kept rather cool, In a tempera-
ture below rather than above 50**. Sponge off regularly
twice a week.
Cinerarias. Examine pots frequently and give
speedy relief when plants have become pot-bound.
Cyclamens. Keep growing until spring to plant out
in the border for summer , which Is better than the
usual practice of drying them off when done blooming.
Daphnes do well If kept cool and damp.
Ferneries. The cases should be kept moderately
wet. Excessive moisture in the soil tends to
sour It. Air should often be admitted, especially after
watering.
Frost. Look out for sudden and sharp changes of
weather. If plants were allowed to get touched by
frost, remove them at once to a temperature of a little
above freezing, and here carefully sprinkle them with
cold wat«r. For protecting house plants during an
unusually cold night, use a Jug filled with hot water
as told in December number.
Fuchsias may now be brought out the cellar and
started anew. When leaves begin to show, shift into
smaller pots shaking out most of the old soil.
Lemon Verbenas to be treated slmUar to Fuchsias.
Propagation. Stock may be Increased now at any
time when cuttings can be had large enough. Insert
in sand for rooting, and keep in a sunny place.
Sponging. The leaves of Ivy and similar plants
need freijueut sponging or washing.
Ten Week Stock. Petunia, Maurandla, and similar
annuals may now be started from seed.
Ventilation. Admit air to the plants whenever the
outside weather will allow. Window plants may be
given air by opening the windows of an adjoining
room. A vessel of water kept on the back of stove to
evaporate will tend to keep the air In room moist, and
favorable to the well-being of the plants.
LAWN AND FLOWER GARDEN,
Beds, Walks, etc. If new ones are to be laid out,
plan them In advance so you will be able to order the
needed stock early.
Hollyhocks, If wanted to flower next fall, may be
grown as annuals by starting seed now In the window
or under glass. The young plants are set Into the
border or bed In May.
Mice. Young trees and shrubs often sufEer serious
injury fiom this cause. The food supply of these
rodents now being cut oET, they take the bait readily,
and may easily be trapped. Since mice ordinarily
approach trees and shrubs only under the cover of
snow, the ndschlef can be prevented by firmly stamp-
ing and packing down the snow around the endanger-
ed sterns immediately after every snow fall.
Pansies. Sow seed for spring bloom.
Pruning, wherever needed to Improve the shape of
trees and shrubs on the lawn, may now be seen to at
anytime. To daub the larger wounds and cuts with
paint or liquid grafting wax is always a commendable
precaution.
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
9'
Babbits otien do bitIcus Injury Ui the l>iirk of younn
trees, and wherever they abound, preventives should
not be neglected. A number of remedies may be found
In recent Issues of PoriLAB G.»nDKNiMi. and any of
them. If properly applied, will prevent Injury.
Repairs. If any trees, especially Evergreens, have
been broken by the storms of winter, make a smooth
cut of the wound and i)alnt It over. Some of the
heaviest snow falls often come late this month or
next. Shake the snow out of the Evergreens.
Rockeries. If such are Intended to be made next
season, the materials may be gathered up now. The
great aim should be to give the whole a natural appear-
ance, and stones and rock should be selected with
this end In view. In place of natural rocks, distorted
burned brick from brick kilns will often answer the
purpose very well,
Roses. The Hybrid Perpetuals if earthed up a foot
deep, as they should have been, will winter all right. If
this was neglected, the coal ashes, moistened if need
be to keep them from blowing away, may now be ap-
plle<l as a covering.
Seeds, Supplies, etc Catalogues of leading seeds-
men and nurserymen, etc., should now be ordered
without delay, and thoroughly studied. Select what
you need, both of old and new things, but always
-using due caution in the selection of the latter, and
send In your order earlv, to be sure to have the goods
when you want them. It is always very annnoylng to
have the ground all ready for sowing and planting,
and then be compelled to let the most favorable time
for the work pass by waiting for the seed or plants to
arrive. So with implements. The materials for rustic
work may also be gathered up. Cedarwood Is excel-
lent for the purpose, and easily worked. Laurel wood
and Laurel roots are also good. Rustic table seats,
arbors, etc., may be constructed out of such material
without much cost and trouble, and be very valuable
and beautiful. Wild Grape vines also are a favorite
and convenient material.
Snow, Heavy snow falls sometimes Injure Ever-
greens badly. K not protected by a board roof, the
snow should be shaken out of them after every snow
storm. Shrubs and trees should not be allowed to be
burled out of sight In snowdrifts.
Seed Sowing. See Ten week Stock under House
Plants.
Ventilate freely in all suitable weather.
FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD.
Cuttings plauted out in fall should be given some
protection now. a few Inches of straw or other litter
being sufllcient.
Gooseberries, Currants, etc., may now be pruned.
Keep the heads opeu.
Insects. When walking through the orchard at any
time during winter, keep your eyes open for eggs of
tent caterpillar and other Insects, and destroy them
when found.
Labels. A large number of young trees are annually
ruined by leaving the labels on them as they came
from the nursery. The wires should be loosened, or
better the labels attached to a twig rather than around
the main stem. For permanent labels use Pine labels
painted or zinc, and fasten them with copper wire in
such a manner that the wire will have no chance to
choke the life out of the tree.
Mice and Rabbits. See direction under Lawn and
Flower Garden.
Mind Culture. Our success In any branch of hor-
ticulture depends largely on our InteUigence and
knowledge of best methods, varieties, etc. The time
spent in the study of horticultural works and horticul-
tural journals will be well spent. These stormy days
and long evenings afford chances which it wUl not do
for us to neglect. The catalogues of nurserymen also
contain many good things. Order them early, and
examine them carefully.
Pruning trees may be done in mild weather, but
It should be done judiciously— no slashing into them
right and left. Remove weak and imperfect shoots.
Stunted trees may often be helped considerably by
severe pmnlug.
Scraping tree trunks with a tree scraper as Illus-
trated in December nimiber, serves to remove dead
bark, moss, scale, etc. Paint with a mixture of lime,
soot and clay, or with strong lye or copperas water,
etc., as may be needed or thought advisable.
houses the snow %vlll thaw off, hut where the temper,
atttre inside Is kept rather low, it may need removing.
In such case a snow scraper three feet long may be
used to advantage.
Strawberries should not be allowed to set too much
frutt. else It will be small. A moderate number of
god'l sfzeil berries are more satisfactory than many
small ones. When enough have set, dip off the re-
maining llovvers and late- on pick off the smallest
berries also. Syringe freely to keep down red spiders.
Water moderately at the roots.
PLANT CULTURE UNDER GLASS.
Azaleas coming into bloom need plenty of water .
Where a long season of bloom is desired, the plants
should be divided into lots, and exposed to different
temperatures, some kept warmer and some cooler.
Begonias of the flowering section that are past
bloom should be pruned somewhat, and kept rather
dry. Repot when new growth begins. Over-watering
must be avoided. The Rex sorts may now be propa-
gated from leaves. With a sharp knife cut the main
ribs of well-matured leaves from the underside and
just below div^ding points. In eight or nine places.
Place them on sand, right side up, in a temperature of
tW and put a little sand on the leaf to weight it down.
Keep moist, and they will root readily.
Bulbs in storage should be examined at this time to
see that they are in good order, and kept dormant.
Gladiolus, Cannas and Dahlias are often kept under
the greenhotise stages. Tuberoses should be cleaned
up, and have the offsets removed.
Fuchsias for nice spring plants should soon be
struck: when potted off, give them plenty of root
room, light, and water. Plants struck after this month
should not have their tops pinched off, but should be
grown naturally and quick.
Geraniums, from fall propagation, should be given
the room now needed for free growth. Repot as
needed. Geraniums with variegated foliage need extra
care and attention. Give them a warm place, say 55",
and much lighc. Shelves near the glass in a warm
house suit them well.
Glass, when broken should be repaired Immediately.
It is a good practice to keep a stock of " life-preservers"
on hand. These are pieces of board of size of various
sizes, to cover one, two, or more panes of glass, when
broken and until they can be repaired.
Orchids at rest should not have a drop more water
than absolutely needed to keep the bud from shrivel-
ing. Cattleyas, Oncidiums and others with large
fleshy bulbs need even less water than the Vandas,
Saccolabiums, and others of that kind. U watering
is necessary, do it early in the morning, and avoid
splashing the tender toUage. Let the temperattire be
very regular, with a few degrees lower during exces-
sively cold speUs.
Pelargoniums should be induced to make free
growth. Give them a warm dry place, plenty of room,
air, and sunlight.
Petunias to be treated as outlined for Geranitmis.
Propagation, Strike cuttings of all plants as will be
needed in spring. Favor kinds of which stock is scarce
by hurrying up the growth of cuttings.
Roses. The ever blooming class should be given a
uniform temperature of 55° to 60* by night, with 15 or
■if higher during the day. Syringe twice daily; give a
little air whenever the weather penults, and liquid
manure once a week. Remove all blind shoots, and
unduly straggling ones from time to time. If in
cutting Roses these are taken off with stems rimning
back to the second eye from the next larger branch,
little other pranlng will be needed. The Hybrid Per-
petuals now tinder way should have an abtmdance of
water and air.
VEGETABLE GARDEN.
Cabbage Plants in frames need attention during
mild bright weather. Give abundance of air.
Forest Leaves. There Is no better material for
bedding the animals; and when mixed with the liquid
and solids from the animals it makes an addition to
the compost heap, which soon decays into the richest
manure, quite free from seeds.
Hot Beds. In most northern localities hot-beds will
not be started until next month. In the southern
states they will be made now. See that the materials
for frames are ready, and the sashes in good order to
be u.sed when theys hall be needed. For heating material
pure horse manure is often advised, but this sometimes
gets beyond control. It is much better to use leaves
in the proportion of one-third to one-half of the stable
manure. With this the heat comes up gradually and
the mass Is more tinder control and more lasting than
when manure alone is used.
Manure is the key to all successful gardening,
whether the crops are for home consumption or the
market. When the ground is frozen, the hauling may
be done easier than at almost any other time. There
Is no objection to spreading the manure on the groimd
now, provided the land is not subject to surface
washes. Fine manure had better be put In
square heaps to be spread on the surface In spring
after plowing and harrowed in.
Mice, if troublesome in frames, root cellars, etc.,
may be disposed of by poisoning them with Peas
soaked In water until they swell, then rolled In arsenic
and burled just below the surface in some loose earth.
Seeds. Overhaul the store on hand and throw away
all of doubtful vitality. Most seeds are good at the
end of four or five years, and Squashes, Melons, and
all of that family, last almost indefinitely.
Onions. Parsnips aud Carrots are the seeds which
growers are most particular about. Those who
supply the market with crops should put their depen-
dence on varieties known to be marketable, and not
risk novelties until a trial has proved their value.
Tools. Repair when needed. If new ones are re-
quired, make an order without delay.
FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER
GLASS.
Asparagus must be kept well watered.
Graperies now being started, should have not above
55" of heat, and be well sprinkled twice a day. As the
young growth appears, sufficient air must be admitted
to prevent the growth from being weak and the foliage
thin. Air the house freely on mild days.
Mnshrooms. Try to keep the temperature as near
euf. and as steady as possible. Save manure for new
beds as needed.
Rhubarb to be treated like Asparagus.
Snow. Cold frames frozen under a snowfall need
not be touched for some time; but when not frozen,
the snow should be removed within a few days after
its fall. If a shovel Is u.sed, it should be wide enough
I to reach clear across two sash bars. On warm forcing
THE POULTRY YARD.
Large Eggs. Find out tbe hen that lays the
small ojjyfs, aiul turn her into soup.
Dampness Injurious. Never let the fowls out
of the house in the morning when there is a fog
or general dampness. Wait until the sun appears.
Poultry for Meat. Small farmers and villagers
may produce one-half of their meat supply in
the iioulty-yai-d it they will give the subject
proper attention.
Milk for Poultry. For very young chicks use
equal parts of boiled water and fresh milk, and
give them lukewarm. For old fowls, skim milk,
butter milk, and sour milk are all good.—
Orange County, Farmer.
Guineas as Guards, If a few Guinea fowls
can be induced to roost in or near by the poultry
house thev will afford protection against chicken
thieves. They are light sleepers and make a
tremendous racket when disturbed at night.
Prepare for the Breeding Season, Give the
poultry intended for breeders next season a good
show. Dispose of your surplus cockerels or
inferior stock. They will gain weight more
rapidly if not allowed to run out. Let your
breeding stock have as wide a range as possible.
— O. (J. Farmer.
Salt for Poultry. Salt is a necessity for fowls,
and when it is supplied them they keep in better
condition and lay a larger number of eggs. Of
coui-se an excess of salt is injuriou.s, but the soft
food is seasoned with it with benefit. Give your
fowls a proportion of salt in the food two or
three times a week. — Mirror and Farmer.
Early Broilers. The early broilers must be
hatched not later than February lo, and January
is the best month for hatching them. It requires
about thirteen weeks from the time the egg is
put under the hen until the chick goes to market.
This allows ten weeks for growth. The weight
of the chick at that age depends upon the breed
and how it is fed and managed.— M. and F.
Sitting Hens. In cold weather eleven eggs are
enough for a good-sized hen, nine for a small one.
When you feed your sitters, ( and you should
have a regular time every forenoon for feeding
themi, do not let them remain off the nests
untU the eggs chill. The last week of incuba-
tion sprinkle the eggs two or three times very
lightlv with warm water just before the hen
returiis to the nest.— Farm and Field.
Potatoes and Turnips. There is a large quan-
tity of water in the composition of the Turnip,
but the avidity with which cooked Turnips will
be eaten by poultry when the diet has been
mostly of grain, shows that a change of food is
beneficial. Those who raise large flocks of ducks
and geese consider Turnips the best and cheapest
food that can be allowed. The cooked Turnips
are sprinkled with meal and bran, fed warm, and
the birds allowed all they can eat. The small and
unsalable may be advantageously used in the
same manner.
The Pullets Should Lay. if too fat, stop feed-
ing so much grain. Give plenty of water,
steamed hay cut short and mixed with bran, in
the morning, some fresh meat at noon. Whole
Corn should not be fed, but instead feed Oats or
Wheat. Make them scratch for it. If pullets
aie thin with a pale comb, look out for lice at
once. Buhach does the work. Spray the house
and roosts with crude petroleum. Then feed
generously.and all wUl be well.— Poultry Bulletin.
Winter Care. Fowls must have a varied diet,
as no single element can supply all the needs of
the system. Provision must be made for feeding
vegetables occasionally, in addition to the allow
ance of gxain or meal. Well steamed chopped
Clover hay, or, better still. Clover ensilage should
be fed once in a while, and Cabbage leaves wUl
be greatly relished. Oats do not contain the
fattening' elements found in some other foods,
yet for egg production they are unsurpassed by
any other gi-ain. Meat scraps and milk will also
materially assist tbe laying hens in the perfor-
mance of their duty.— Farmer's Review.
Eresh vs. Warm Water. Neither would I give
my fowls warm water. Don't see any sense in so
doing. Good, clear, cold water, fresh from the
well is about as acceptable to a pen of fowls as
any drink you can offer them, and will do them
more good than a lot of warm water. There are
too many notions and hobbies about poultry
raising. Good, plain. North American common
sense is the best aid. Treat your fowl naturally,
and don't be hunting up all sorts of tooUsh and
cranky ideas to try. Keep their quarters clean
and neat, give them plenty of food and water
and a warm building to live in, and they wiU do
all right without so much fussing,— G. Q. D., in
Mass. Ploughman.
POPULAR .GARDENING.
January,
Correspondents are urged to anticipate the season in pre-
Benting questions. To ask, for instance, on April IS or 20
iphat Peas had best be sown, could bring no anstcer »n
the May issue, and none before June, leken the answer
would be unseasonable. Questions received before the mft
of any nuinth stand a good chance of being answered in the
next paper. Xot more than three questions should be sent
at one time. Answers to qu.stiiyns bearina en tue com-
of implements, etc., offered by different
dealers must not be expected. Xeither can we promise to
parative valu
comply urith tfic request sometimes made to "please ansuvr
by mail." Inquiries appearing leithout name belong to the
name, next following.
Replies to Inquiries are earnestly requested from our
rea^trs. In anstrering suoh give the number, your
loeality and name, the latter not for publication. unUas
you desire. Write only on one side of the paper.
1.581. Golden Queen Raspberry. What is the color
yield, and market value?— M. J.. Norwich, X. T.
I.5S2. White Alpine Strawberry. Where can I ob-
tain a plant or seedV-L. E. R. L., Big Horn City, Wyo.
1.583. Apple Stock. Are the roots of trees three or
four years old good for stock?
1.584. Root Grafts. Should they be kept in cellar,
or out doors, and how? How deep should they be
planted in spring?~C. C. L., Old Fort. N. C.
1.585. Kandline Celery. What Is understood by
this term?
1,5S6. Sweet Corn. Has the Gold Coin proved a
success?— B. F. M,, Sanquoit, N. Y.
l.yi. Planting Asparagus. What distance is best?
Toset one third acre uest spring, is it better to raise
plants from seed, or to buy them f
1,588. Fruit and Vegetable Growing. What work
would you recommend for the novice? -C. D., St, Paul,
Minn. '
1.5S9. Orchid Culture. Where can I get full infor-
mation?—Mrs. T. M. P., CastroviUe, Te^.
1,59<X Starting Flower Seeds. When is best time to
start them In hot bed lor outdoor planting? How
made and managed?— S. R. H., Ashtabula, O.
1.591. Poultry Manure. What is Its value for the
garden and flower bed?— R. S., Columbus, O.
1.592. Vine Leaved Abutilon. Where can it be
bought?-C. C. "R, Buffalo, A'. Y.
1.593. Althaeas. Can they be grown from seed, and
If so, when gatJiereU, and sowed?— F. E. N., St. Louis.
1,5*4. Root Grafting. How done? Are the adver-
tised machines of any account.— W. W. R., Iowa.
1.595. Hardy Roses. Please give a list of best six—
W. M. W., Chicago, Ill-i.
1.596. Fruit Evaporating. What are the leading
principles?— C. F., Hart. Mich.
1.597. Coal Soot. Is it a good fertilizer for plants
as claimed?— F. F. R., Boston, ^ass.
1,593. Growing Asparagus. Should it be bleached
or not for market?— S. X., Fairport, I.
1,599. Rochester Nurserymen. Please give list of
plant aud tree growers.- M. M. M., Ripley, O.
1,6U0. Prizelaker Onion. Please give address of
seedsman who has It.— J. D. W., Savannah, Ga.
1.601. Chestnut Orchard. Would you advise setting
a Paragon orchard for profit?— Ffti7a., P.
1.602. Disposal of Rubbish. Is burying in trenches
a good practice?— B. F. H,, Warsaw.
I,»i03. Turnip Tops for Greens. Is any call for them
in market? Are they good for home use?— TFes^c/i(?sfer.
1,6 -A. Soil for Peanuts. Should It be very rich, aud
how prepared?- M. N. S., Indiana.
1,605. Pruning the Plum and Pear. Should this be
done, and If. how?— J. M. M.
1,61)6. Red Currant. What variety is most produc-
tive on clay ?
1.607. Donbling the Yield. What Is best treatment
to make soli yield double crop?
1.608. Quick Garden Crops. What vegetables will
answer to raise two crops in one season from same
ground?— J. M. M.. Embro, Ont .
1.6119. Mulberries from Cuttings. How grown?
have tried but failed. -H. W., Clinton, Ills.
1.610. Mountain Holly. When is best time to trans-
plant from forest to lawu?— J. B. S., Highlands, N. C.
1.611. Elberta Peach. Does it succeed at north as
well as at the south?- J. D, B., Ann Arbor, Mich.
1.612. Swamp Muck. How should it be treated to
make it a complete fertilizer for vegetables?— E. G.,
Monmouth Co., X. J.
1.613. Chrysanthemums not Blooming. 1 have
Count of Germaula, and Robt. Craig, strong, healthy,
no bloom.— J. B. T., Winncpcg.
1.614. Propagating the Quince. Can it be done
from cuttings, and how?— S. W. T., North Royalton, O.
1.615. Propagating Begonias. How are Manicata
aurea, ami Count Louis Erdmlv to be treated?— L.P.H.,
West Rutland, Vt.
1.616. Tariff on Plants and Seeds. What is the
present tariff rate:'— L. K.. Stay.slehurst, Neb.
1.617. Hardy Fruits. Name two hardiest Plums
and Russian Apples for Northwest,— F, B., Olenboro,
Mon.
1,6IS. Pruning Peaches. What is best season, aud
how done?— J. E. M., Rov7^dhead, O,
1.619. Rhododendron at North. Can they be grown
as far north as Fort Wayne, Ind.? What kinds are best
and when to plant?— S. H. S.. Titman, Ijid.
1,{\H>. Blue Gladiolus. Where can it be obtained.
If existing?
', 1,621. Crinum Americanum. How best kept over
winter?
1,622. French Cannas. What are the parents of the
new hybrid dwarfs?— L. B., New York.
1.633. Southern Market Gardening. How exten-
sive are shipments of fruits an<l vegetables from south
to northern market^?- A. SI. N., New England.
1.624. Bagasse as.Mulch. Will mulch of sorghum
cane refuse be Injurious to Strawberries by causing
ai-ldity?— J. C. H.. lown.
1.625. Roses from England. Can they be sent by
mall successfully?
1.626. Variegated Pittosporum Tobira. Is It bene-
fited by manure water before blooming?
1.627. Amaryllis Belladona. When is its natural
blooming season? Bulb planted seven weeks, no sign
of sprouting.— W. S. J., Cnicago, Ills.
1.628. Celery Seed. How la It grown?- F. T.. H.,
Oakfield.N. Y.
1.629. Gooseberries among Dwarf Pears. Pears
ten feet apart each way. Will a Gooseberry set be-
tween succeed?— L. S., Canada.
REPLIES TO INQUIRIES.
1,588. Fmit and Vegetable Growing. We are
not acquainted with any work combining- the
two branches, except Henderson's " Gardening
for Profit," which not only gives fnll informa-
tion on the subject of vegetable growing, but
also has a chapter on small fruit culture. As a
guide book for the novice in fruit .growing, we
would commend Bairy's Fruit Garden. The
mtist complete lists of varieties are found in
Cliarles l^owning's Fruits and Fruit Trees of
America.
1,546. Jewell Grapes. Vines can be had of Dr.
Stayman, Leavenworth. Kansas.
1,587. Planting Asparagus. We believe in
giving each plant plenty of room for full de-
velopment, and both in field and garden culture
would have rows about five feet apart, and the
plants two feet apart in the rows. This looks
like wasting space ; but it is not. On rich warm
soil and otherwise well treated. Asparagus
planted at this distance will give better, larger
aud more salable *■ grass," and bring more
money than if planted closer. Plants standing
at the distance suggested by our correspondent,
namelj' in rows two feet apart, and six or eight
inches apart in the rows, are too much crowded
for space to produce anything, but weak spind-
ling sprouts that are not in demand in the
markets, or can be sold only at a low price to
fourth-class boarding houses. The large succu-
lent stalks, three quarters of an inch or more
in diameter, are what is wanted, and what will
find quick sale at top figures. Why should the
home grower plant closer than is found most
suitable for the market garden? Close planting,
of course, is also objectionable on account of
greater difficulty in cultivation. Wide rows are
convenient in every way.
1,584. Handling Celery. Handling is merely
a preparatory step to blanching.and its object is to
make the plant grow upright and compact. The
leaf stalks are all gathered up, and held closely
together with one hand, while the other packs
soil tightly around thera to keep them in this
position. This is '* handling." Banking, or
earthing up for the purpose of bleaching the
stalks is done afterwards.
1,591. Poultry Hanore. This contains more
of the nitrogenous element in an available form
than any other yard manure, and forthisreason
is especially suited to stimulate plant-growth.
Its value, of course, depends largely on the way
it has been handled and kept. An average sam-
ple of well-preserved poultry droppings, slightly
mixed with sifted coal ashes, dry muck or other
absorbents, and moist but not wet, will be worth
§5 or St> per ton. Clear, dry, pulverized drop-
pings would have a much higher value. On the
other hand, most of our poultry writers and
poultrj- editors are prone to exaggerate its value
and effectiveness. We are not afraid to spread
it on the garden pretty thick as a t(»p dressing,
often using all the manure produced by a 100
fowls during fall and winter on less than one-
sixth of an acre. Such an application has a tell-
ing effect. If to be used as a top dressing in the
flower garden and border, we would mix the
droppings with plenty of absorbing material,
especiaUy dry swamp muck, leaf mold, rotten
turf, etc. Sifted coal ashes is always a good
admixture, but wood ashes should not be used
to mix with it.
1,600. Prizetaker Onion. This was introduced
by Wra. Henry Maule, as stated in last issue.
Watch our advertising columns for his address.
The reply to No. 1.5l»9 on page 81 applies to this
and all similar cases.
1,593. Boot Grafting. This can be done in the
house any time. Home Journal gives the follow-
ing directions: The requisites are Apple seedlings
one or two years old; cions of the desired varietj',
as near the size of the j'oung trees as may be ;
and a knife with a thin blade and a keen edge.
The cions are shoots of the past season's growht
—wood of one year. For stocks only young
trees should be used. Some have grafted on
pieces of the roots dug up frf)m large trees; but
these, as a general rule, do not make good trees.
The young trees are first washed to free them
from grit; then the small fibrous roots are
trimmed off ; then as each tree is taken up to be
grafted, the top is cut off at the collar, with a
sloping cut about an inch long. A ciou about
three inches in length is then prepared with the
same kind of a cut on the lower end— the cut on
the root, it will be observed, is on the upper end.
In each of these two sloping cuts, a slit of nearly
three quarters of an inch Is made, allowing the
knife to enter about a third of an inch from the
thin end. This makes two "tongues," as they
are called, each to be fitted into the slit in the
other, and pushed together firmly and made to
agree exactly at one side, in case cion and stfick
do not quite agree in size. A little wrapping
with spool thread will hold them togetnor.
Usually the root will be too long, and several
inches of the lower end may be cut off and dis-
carded. The grafts are now to be tied in bundles
of twenty-five, with the proner labels attached,
and put away in damp earth in the cellar until
the spring. In planting out, only the upper bud
should remain above ground. The dis-
tance apart in the row may be eight to twelve
inches, according to the time the j'oung trees are
to be allowed to stand. Now about machine
work. We have seen and tried some of them,
but do not consider them of much value. A
skilled grafter can handle the grafts about as
fast liy hand, and make a surer job of it. We
would like to hear from our nurserymen, whether
any of them is using grafting machines to any
extent. We greatly doubt it.
1,601. Chestnut Orchard. No, we would not
advise you to plant a large Paragon orchard at
the present price of trees. It might be a pay-
ing investment, but we do not believe in rushing
headlong into any new thing. We believe that
a Paragon Chestnut orchard would yield large
returns after a few years, but the way we would
manage, if we intended to plant largely is as
follows: First we would secure some trees and
plant them, for the purpose of growing grafts
from them. At the same time we would plant a
regular orchard of seedlings of either Spanish
or American Chestnuts, or else plant nuts ; and
as soon as we can get the grafts, we would graft
the seedlings with the Paragon.
1,599. Growing Asparagus. To bleach or not
to bleach— that has been a point of dispute for a
long time. Personally we prefer large tender,
white stalks to green ones, but we do not want
them when poorly grown and tough. If the
"grass " is grown for market, we must of course
grow it to suit the demand. If people want green
stalks, we have to furnish them in this way, aud
vice-versa. In most citj' markets the white and
tender shoots bring a better price than green
ones. Consequently, says the Florida Agricul-
turists, the aim of the grower should be to have
his shoots as large and at the same time tender
as possible. These two requisites must be co-
existent; one without the other will amount to
but little. The amount of soil on top of the
crown to a great extent regulates the textui*e,
color and size of the shoots. If the soil is of con ■
siderable depth, the shoots will be longer and of
a more desirable color. But at the same time, if
the depth of soil is too great, the shoots will
expend vitality, in forcing their way through it
to the surface, and will consequently become
"spindling," tough and fibrous. In some sec-
tions of the south, where the rays of the sun
will color and harden the tips within a few hours
the gardenere resort to numerous devices to pro-
tect them. A very tedious, laborious aud expen-
sive process is that of muk-hing the beds during
the cutting season. The .'mulch, consisting gen-
erally of straw and leaves, must be removed
every morning in order to get at the sprouts.
aud replaced when the cutting is finished.
Another plan is to have tlu- beds quite narrow,
and to plant Ras]"li«_'n-y bushes on each side of
them, and to train tht-ni agauist a low trellis that
they will overreach and lap above the bed,
making quite a dense shade. This is an excellent
plan, and magnificent Asparagus is grown in
these Kaspberry-shaded beds. The cutting, of
course, is somewhat unpleasant and difficult.
Another plan practiced extensively in gardens
exclusively for home use, is to get small tiower
pots, fill the hole in the bottom with ulay or
beeswax, and every morning place the i«>ts over
young shoots just showing themselves on the
surface; at the same time pulling the soil well
up to the inverted pot. This excludes the air
and sun, and the shoots will remain white and
tender until the pots are nearly filled.
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
93
l.tHK. Doubling th6 Yield. Avoniffe crops aro
Imw, indeed, too low to be profltiible, and to
double them is an easy Enough matter. The
nverajre Potato t-rop in this State, for instance,
is only S5 or 90 bushels to the acre. A good gard-
ener should not grow less than 'A)0 bushels to the
acre. So it is with almost all farm and garden
crops How to double the yicldl' First apply
double the manure— make the land rich so the
plants have all the food they need. Next plant
close. Just wide enough to give each plant space
for fullest development, but no more. Never
crowd a plant. Be sure to have no misshills. A
good manager can easily prevent them by using
plenty of seed, and by timely r<M>lanting should
this be needed. Attend to all the wants of the
crop in proper time by clean and thorough cul-
tivation, and in any other way required, and
there will be no trouble to double the yield, and
in many instances to treble it,
1,612. Swamp Muck. This is even richer in
nitrogen than ordinary stable manure, but this
nitrogen is not in an immediately available con-
dition. If it were dry swamp muck would be
worth $8.00 to $10.00 per ton. Of phosphoric acid
potash swamp muck contaios hardlj' ever
moi*e than traces. The carbonaceous matter of
which muck is largely composed, gives it bene-
ficial mechanical effect on heavy clay, or light
sandy soils almost equal to stable manure, and
to make a good complete fertilizer of it, it would
only be necessary to dry it thoroughly, and then
use it as absorbents in the stables. When mixed
with the solid and liquid voidings of animals it
becomes as good as stable manure. A good way
is to bed horses, cows, sheep, etc , on a layer, say
a foot in depth, and leave it there. It will then
absorb all the manurial matter, and become a
valuable fertilizer, at the same time adding to
the comfort and cleanliness of the animals. A
good manure may also be made of dry mucK by
composting is with unleached wood ashes, or
with bone dust and potash salt«,kainit preferred.
This treatment adds the potash and phosphoric
acid to it, and makes some of the nitrogen avail-
able, thus rendering the compound a complete
fertilizer. Try it.— G. R.
1,610. Mountain Holly. This is usually con-
sidered difficult to transplant, but the operation
can be performed successfully by stripping the
plant of its leaves and cutting back severely.
Transplant iu spring — G. R.
1,556. Distance for Grape Vines. Six feet is
too near. We once advised and practised plant-
ing the slow-growing sorts, such as Delaware,
Lady, Adirondack, lona, etc , 6 by 8 feet, but
experience has taught us that 8 by 8 is better,
and 8 by 10 and 8 by 12 is as near as the stronger
growers should be planted.— F. L. W.
1,558. Manuring Grapes and Trees. There is
no better manure than wood ashes. We like to
plow under a crop of Clover in onr orchard.—
F, L. W.
1,500. Gen. Grant Crab. It is an acid variety
and a very good one.— F. L W.
1,574. Grape Cuttinps. Do not bury in damp
soil or where water will settle. A damp, sandy
soil is the best place.—. L. W.
1,603. Turnip Tops for Greens. Turnip Tops
at Christmas are *' English, you know " and I
have no doubt the inhabitants of Gotham will
buy them and pay a good price for them both on
that account and because they are a novelty,
but that they will eat them is another matter.
John G. Gardner of Jobstown, N. J., and who
is one of the largest market growers of forced
fruits and vegetebles in the country told me
once that he used to force a good deal of Seakale
in winter, but it was no use, a little was all right
as a novelty, but as a crop it wouldn't pay. No,
Turnip tops would never whet ray appetite, but
if you come to see me about this time, I''ll treat
you to as nice a winter vegetable as j'ou ever
put a tooth into, namely Seakale. Oh, it's just
excellent. And so easy to grow too, in summer,
and force in winter.— Wm. Falconer.
1.574. Grape Cuttings. These are usually kept
in the cellar in boxes filled with moist sand.
Label securely; tie in small bundles. Or they
can be buried outside in trenches, in any situa-
tion where water does not stand. Cover with
three or four inches of soil.— Chas. E. Parnell.
1.575. Keeping Apple Cions. See answer to
1,574. They will not mould, or be in danger of
beating unless the bundles are made very large
or placed veryclose together — Chas.E.Pabnell.
1.576. Aspidistra for Bedding. This plant will
do well outside in any situation when given a
deep rich soil. Copious waterings during seasons
of drought will be of decided benefit. Plant out
about the tenth of May and take up and repot
before cold weather sets in.— P.
1,578. Castor Beans for Moles. They will not
kill the moles when thrown in their runs, nor
will they banish them as some assert.— C. E. P,
1,554. Norway Maple. I do not think that
cutting back the top will help the tree, or pre-
vent it from dying —Chas. E. Parnell.
1,550. Wire Worms. A good dressing of lime
will probably destroy these pests.— C. E. P.
l,54^t. Chrysanthemum Seedlings, You can-
not tell the color of the flower, or whether they
will Ix- double or single until they bloom.— C.E.P.
1,538. Paeony not Blooming. I give my
Pa^onies a deep moderately enriched soil, a sun-
ny situation. After the plants become well
established, a mulch of good but well decayed
manure is given every fall This is carefully
worked in around the plants the ensuing spring
and with this treatment 1 have no difficulty in
securing large flowers and lots of them.— C. E. P.
1,5;^ Boses not Bloomintr. Moss Roses like
rich ground, and require liberal manuring, and
good cultivation. They bloom best on strong
new wood, and should be cut back about one
half of the last season's growth, in the spring
before growth commences. When well cared
for the bushes will attain a considerable size,
and in pruning it is important to keep the plant
balanced and in good shiijie. Although thu Moss
Roses are classed as being perfectly hardy, I tind
it best to give them a slight covering of Ever-
green branches as soon as the ground becomes
frozen in the fall.— Chas. E. Parnell.
1,544. Myrtle Dying. I presume Vinca Minor
is the plant you refer to, and if so would say that
a good dressing of two or three inches of a com-
post composed of equal parts of good garden
soil, and well decayed manure well worked in
throughout the bed will be of the greatest
benefit.
1163. Insect on Honeysuckle, If F. C. D. will
hang some small bundles of moistened Tobacco
stems, such as he can get of any cigar-maker for
the asking, here and there underneath the foli-
age^ in summer, I think he will not be troubled
agam. If the stems are not to be had, some
small bags filled with cheap smoking Tobacco
would answer quite as well, first soaking these
in water before hanging in the vine. Constant
Reader.
1167. Kainit. This is a mineral deposit con-
sisting of a compound of the sulphates of potash
and magnesia, with the chlorides of magnesia
and of sodium (salt), and is largely used as a
source of potash for fertilizing and other pur-
poses. It is found near Stassfurt, Lepoldshall,
etc, in Germany, in which country its use as a
fertilizer has become almost universal. Thou-
sands of tons are now also exported to aU parts
of the world, including America. The chief
value of this fertilizer is found in the potash it
contains, and which constitutes one-fourth per
cent, of the article. In the use of Kainit, in or-
der to allow the chlorine combinations contained,
which may be injurious to some plants, to lose
its effect, it is recommended that the fertilizer be
applied some months at least before the seed is
sown, as for instance, in the late fall for the fol-
lowing season's crop, thereby so<'uring the bene-
fit of all rain or snow falling in the mruntime
and a consequent deep and tli(»niugh incorpora-
tion of the Kainit ingredients through the soil—
those which are beneficial and nourishing, being
within ready access of allthero<its and not con-
fined m single places. This method of applying
Kainit will prove itself highly advantageous,
whether alone, or in combination with stable
manure, farm refuse, phosphates or other ferti-
lizing material, and should be strictly adhered
to, unless quite impracticable.
11711. Best Market Pears for New York. I
would add the "Bu.ssock." It is of fair (juality,
good size, clear skin, and an abundant bearer. I
think the Kieffers grown south of New Jersey
are of better quality than further north. In fact
those grown in Burlington County, N. J., are of
much better flavor than those grown further
north in the same State. After a little this much-
lauded and abused variety will find ite true place
among Pears. C. W. Idell, 333 Washington St.^
New York City.
1181. Thrips on Fuchsias. Dissolve two ounces
of soft soap in warm water and add thereto a gal-
lon of clean water, and either dip the plants in it
or syringe them. Thrips are the result of want
of vigor in the plants, or more frequently a too
arid atmosphere. The two causes in conjunc-
tion will bring on a bad attack. Fuchsias, if root
bound, need watering twice a day, and the
foliage should be freely syringed morning and
evening, well dampening down the floor and
sta^s of the house. Fuchsias like a cool, rather
moist atmosphere, not lasting in bloom when
much exposed to sun. E. D. L.
1223. Potting Old Fuchsias. As soon as they
show signs of growth, trim them back into shape,
turn them out of their pots, and repot into as small
pots as possible. Water thoroughly when first
potted, afterwards sparingly until growth com-
mences, when a liberal supply should be given.
When first potted place in as warm and light a sit-
uation as possible, and as growth commences re-
move to a cooler atmosphere. Repot as often as
necessary until the plants attain the desired size.
Do not repot too freely if flowers are wanted. A
compost composed of two-thirds rotten sods, one-
third well-decayed manure with a sprinkling of
bone dust will suit them very well.
1266. Lilium Auratum. This should have been
potted last fall when the stem had died ofT, rather
than to have waited until new growth had com-
menced. Ai it is now. keep the soil barely moist
In the same pot, and a second stem will probably
be put forth weaker than the first. The small oflf-
shoots to be removed. All Lilies should be potted
in autumn, usually in October, the foliage being
then ripened. 0. S , Erie Co., JV". Y.
1287, Pansies Devoured. I think that they were
destroyed by slugs or wood-lice, and as a remedy
would suggest placing a few pieces of boards on the
ground between the plants in the evening ; early
the next morning carefully examine the boards
underneath and in most cases the destroyers will
be found underneath and can be destroyed. Re-
peat for several days if necessary. Turnips hol-
lowed out and placed among the plants are also
excellent for this purpose.
1548. Kaspberry Pruning. In localities favor-
able to Raspberry culture the practice is to nip
back the new growth of canes when one foot high
the first year, and afterwards allow them to grow
three feet high before nipping back. The bush
will send out laterals, be stocky and self-support-
ing. These laterals may be nipped back when
about one foot long or allowed to grow and then
cut back In the fall. Grown as above the bushes
are stiff and unyielding. When snow drifts it will
brake them down. Heavy winds will twist them
off. In unfavorable localities like ours It is best to
allow the canes to grow as they please, cut back
and tie to stakes. The more canes in a hill the
smaller they will be and less liable to twist off.
Raspberry canes will sometimes trail along the
ground ten or twelve feet, and "severe cutting
back" is to remove above two-thirds of the cane,
shortening it to about three to four feet.—L. J.
Farmhir, Ostvego, N. Y.
1553. Varieties of Small Fruits. Of the well
tested varieties, I reccommend, if Strawberries,
Warfield, Crescent and Jessie for early, Buback,
Windsor Chief , and Burt for late; of Black Rasp-
berry, Tyler for early, and Gregg for late; Red
Raspberries, Turner for early, and Cuthbert for
late; Snyder Raspberry; La Versalles (red) and
White Grape currants; Downing and Houghton,
Goosberries.— L. J, Farmer.
1569. Old Orchards. The plan followed by
orchardists in Oswego County, and which seems to
be a feasible one. Is this: Crops are grown among
the young fruit trees until they are large enough
to bear when the orchard is seeded down and after-
wards pastured with hogs or young stock. In
plowing among the trees, short whiffltrees are
used 80 as not to bark them, and a space left around
the trees as wide as the branches extend, to be
afterwards turned over with a spading fork. By
continued plowing and working among them, the
roots extend down deep and are not injured by the
plow or by sudden changes in the weather. One
should be very careful in plowing an old orchard
that has been many years to grass, roots tend to
grow near the surface and are disturbed and
bruised by the plow. Rather than run the risk
it would probably be better to pasture it with hogs.
—L.J Fabmkk.
1549. Growing Aloes. Aloes require a com.
post composed of two-thirds turfy loam and
one-third well decayed manure. In potting use
porous or soft baked pots, let them be proper,
tionate to the size of the plants, and see that they
are well drained. An average winter temperature
from 47 to 55 will answer well. While in a state of
growth they requite to be watered freely anfi when
in a state of rest they should be kept rather dry.
They can be planted out in a deep well enriched
border about the middle of May, then taken up and
potted about the middle of September. All the
species are excellent window garden plants.
— Chart-ks E. Parnell.
1662. Dry Maple Leaves. I would not advise
any one to use them for muching strawberries
where straw or salt hay can be procured.— P.
1566, Summer Mulch. Nothing better than
straw or salt or marsh hay for placing around
Strawberries to keep the fruit clean. I often
wonder why so many various materials are sug-
gested when straw can be so readily and cheapfy
obtained. C. E. P.
249. Pruning Roses. It is very difficult to teach
this by merely writing about it; but it is neverthe-
less, an important part of the cullivation of the
Rose, An experienced Rose cultivator will first
ascertain the name of the Rose, and he will thin
out the wood or cut back the young growths, in
references to the general characteritics of the par-
ticular variety. As a rule the strong-growing
varieties must not be cut back so freely as these of
a more weakly habit. Those varieties that have a
tendency to form a thicket of young wood should
be disbudded during the summer; this allows a full
development of leaf and growth with the conse-
quent production of Roses of a much superior
quality. Hybrid Perpetual and Moss Roses should
be pruned very much ahke. The young growths
ought to be cut back to within from three to six
buds from the base, Very weak growers may be
I cut back to within two good buds Rose Grower.
9*
POPULAR GARDENING.
January,
1,5%. Fruit Eyaporatliiif. Some leading
priacipals were recently summed up by the
California Fruittrrower, as follows : Allow your
fruit to mature thoroughly on the tree before
^thering it. Green or under-ripe fruit does
not contain a sufficient (juautity of saccharine
matter or Grape sugar to make a good article
of dried fruit. Over-ripe, mushy, bruised, and
partially decayed fruit makes a poor, dark-
colored dried product. Grade your fruit as to
size before you cut it. Fruit that has fallen from
the tree and is bruised is sure to turn black
when dried. Evaporate your fruit thoroughly,
but do not dry it too much. Put on the finishing
touch in your curing house. Fine dried fruit
cannot be produced from poorsmall green fruit.
In bleaching do not burn the sulphur in the
evaporator on any ac-
count, and it is advis-
able not to burn it in
the bleaching house
with the fruit. Twenty
or thirty minutes is a
sufficient length of time
to submit fresh cut
fruit to the sulphur
fumes. Clingstone
Peaches are good driers,
but cause considerable
trouble pitting. There
is less waste to the cling
than to the free stone.
Fine dried fruit can be
made in the sun, but
you must know how.
If you wish to make
a record for your fruit,
use the finest, choicest
fruit you can get for
drying. You cannot
produce choice dried
fruit if you use wind-
falls, culls, wormy and
over-ripe fruit Sun-
dried fruit may be sub-
mitted to dry or super-
heated steam in a
heater say for five
minutes, if you un-
derstand the business, , -— , .,, ,- ..,„
will soften the fruit slightly and will keep the
eggs of insects, worms, etc. Do not dip the fruit
in water after it is dried, just before packing, for
the purpose of softening it up and making it
weigh heavy. Buyers can tell "doped fruit
the moment they see it, and if it is not sold and
consumed immediately, it is sure to turn black,
get soft and spoil. Tour curing and packing
house should be well ventilated, but all openings
should be secured against insects by wire screens.
1.B2.5. Althaea Shrub. The Mallows may be
increased by dividing the plants at the roots, or
by seeds. The latter are gathered when ripe
kept like other seeds in any convenient place or
receptacle, and planted in open, well-prepared
ground covering an inch deep.
1,627. Amaryllis Belladonna. These bulbous
plants require a season of perfect repose after
each season of growth, and when this condition
is properly observed, the flowers can be had at
almost any season of the year. The flowers
appear before the leaves do. When done bloom-
ing, and until growth ceases, water should be
withheld by degrees, and the plants then kept
dry and in a temperature of at least 45 or ,50°.
When desired to flower again, pot in good fibrous
loam, leaf mould and saiid, equal parts of each,
providing thorough drainage by pieces of broken
pots in bottom of pot, and put in a bottom bed
or greenhouse, beginning with a temperature of
50°,and gradually increasing to liO or 70.- Gordon.
I,.5t2. Frononncing Dictionary. Volume eight
of the Illustrated Dictionary of Gardening,
published by J. Arnot Penman, 12 Dey street.
New York City, gives the correct pronunciation
of all the names of horticultural plants. The,
names are arranged in alphabetical order, and
are divided into syllables with the accents of the
syllables and the sounds of the more important
vowels clearly marked.— E. S. G.
1,602. Disposal of Eubbish. Burying our
green rubbish in trenches in the garden seems to
me to be a senseless, laborious, expensive and
wasteful practice. Don't do that. But have a
good old fashioned rubbish pile.— a place where
you can pile up and burn sticks, prunings, roots,
noxious weeds as couch grass and big weeds cut
in seed, and the like; and alongside of it a pile
for refuse dirt as old potting soil, garden clean-
ings, or the like; and if you live in the country
you probably keep pigs, well into the hog pen
run all manner of waste vegetables, garden
cleanings, in fact, if you will, every kind of
earthy and waste matter. What I don't cait
directly t.i the liog )ien and which accumulates
in a rot pile 1 spread in the manure yard as a
foundation for the manure piles and a good ab-
sorbent it becomes too I nave no sympathj-
with burving plant food in trenches in the
f round; my practice has taught me to keep the
ood near the surface of the ground. It will find
its way down fast enough.— Wm. FALCONER.
1.595. Hardy Boses At the recent meeting of
the American Pomological Society, in Florida,
the following were given in answer to an inquiry
for lists of best six and best ten Hybrid Per-
petual Roses, viz.; Mr. Dunning's list — Mai*shall
P. Wilder, Baroness Rothschild. Baron de Bon-
stetten, Maria Bauman. Anne de Diesbach,
Gabriel Luizet, Louis Van Houtte, Eugenie Ver-
dier, Mabel Morrison. General Jacqueminot.—
Mr. A. Lamb's list— Marshall P. Wilder, Baron
de Boustetten, Anne de Diesbach, General Jac-
queminot, John Hopper, Caroline de Sansal,
Princess Camille de Rohan, Louis Van Houtte,
Coquette des Alps.— W. C. Barry's list— Marshall
P. Wilder, Baron Bonstetten, General Jacque-
minot. John Hopper, Baroness Rothschild, Caro-
line de Sansal, Anne de Diesbach, Merville de
European Methods of TTaining CJirysanthemumf!, Shounng the Forms and
without damage. This i Lyon, Louis Van Houtte, Madame Gabriel
Luizet. It will be seen that the following:
Marshall P. Wilder, Baron de Bonstetten, Anne
de Diesbach, Louis Van Houtte and General
.Tacqueminot, are included in each list; Baroness
Rothschild, Madame Gabriel Luizet, John Hop-
per, and Caroline de Sansal, are found in two of
the lists, while Marie Bauman. Kugenie \ erdier,
Mabel Morrison, Princess Camillie de Rohan,
Coquette des .\lpes and Merville deLyon receive :
the recommendation of but one. These lists
may be safely followed by planters.
1,539. ftuince Propapation. They are usually
grafted on short pieces of Apple roots -F. L W.
1,547 Haisins from American Grapes. Bright-
on, Duchess, Empire State, Walter and many
other pure flavored American Grapes (or crosses
with the foreign 1'. rinifera) make good raisins
for culinary purposes They can be dried by
laving perfect bunches of fruit on racks made
of common plastering lath, and placing in a
warm, dry room. Tumthe bunches occasionally
and pick out all berries that show any signs of
mold.-F. L W.
European Methods of Training
Chrysanthemums.
On this page are shown some devices
employed in Europe for training Chrysan-
themums in various forms. The illustra-
tions were re-engraved from our German
contemporary. The Gaertner Zietung,
the originals bemg accompanied by
an extended article. The lower en-
graving represents some young
plants during the summer course
of treatment being placed in con-
junction with a light wire trellis
which permits of tying up the plants
in any desired shape. The forms
above are simple wire devices such
as any person could readily con-
struct. They possess the merit of
allowing the plants to be trained in
a way very prim and pleasing. It
is true no one at least no American
would fancy seeing an entire collec-
tion of Chrysanthemums trained in
these and other formal styles, for the
round form of bush in which an air of
freedom prevails is in the generality of
cases more suitable. But unquestionably
every gardener delights in trying his hand
at working out at least a few specimens in
some such a way and to such these sugges-
tive engravings should be of use.
Ontario Fruit Growers in Council.
The Exhibit. The fruits exhibited on
the stage of the Music Hall in Windsor,
Ont., during the meeting held on December
10, U and l'2th, consisted of some line speci-
mens of the Apples commonly grown in
Ontario, together with a number of Cana-
dian seedlings, also a few Pears. The Kerr
ventilated barrel, shown by the manufac-
turer, seems to combine some good features
and makes a handsome, and cheap package,
alike serviceable for shipment and for home
storage. We are favorably impressed with
it. For the United States this barrel is
manufactured by the Kerr Barrel and Box
Co. of Muscadine, la.
Officeks. The choice
of the meeting for
president fell upon Mr.
A. M. Smith of St.
Catherines. Mr. L.
Woolverton, of Grims-
by, is secretary of the
association.
Ontario Fri'it List.
The fruit committee
presents a catalogue of
-\pples, on which they
have been engaged
with the object of es-
tablishing a standard
for the guidance of
judges at fairs. Other
fruits will be taken tip
in their turn. The
standard of each varie-
ty is fixed in four con-
siderations, 1, as to its dessert quality; 2, its
cooking quality; 3, its value for home mar-
ket: 4, its value for foreign market. The
list apparently is prepared with great care,
and when finished will be thoroughly re-
liable. Mr. McD. Allan, the ex -president,
is a member of the committee, and one of
the best posted men on the value of Apples
for foreign market. The following may
serve as samples: Fameuse, 8, 5, 9, 8; Falla-
water,7, 8, 8, 9; Mann, 4. 7, 7, 8; Esopus Spitz-
enburg, 9, 7, 9, 10; Gravenstein, 9, 9, 10, 10;
Baldwin, 2, 5, 7, 8; Ben Davis, J, 1, 8, 9;
Northern Spy, 10, 10, 10, 10, etc.
Discussion on Varieties. The proper
rating of varieties brought out a lively dis-
cussion, especially in regard to the follow-
ing sorts. Prhtccss Louise, Mr. McD. Allan
and Mr. Woolverton have a high opinion of
it; fine for dessert and market Christmas.
ExiipiiK Spitzcnhcrrj. Mr. Mc D. Allan
says it should not be allowed to shrivel. 1
kept in somewhat damp room it will remain
crisp, brittle and in best condition.
yellow TruHb-parciit. This is rated low
in the Fruit List, namely, 5, 7, 4, 0; but
the Developed Piont.s.
Summer Tralninu of the Chrysanthemum.
most members pronounce it much later, and
perhaps of better quality than Early Har-
vest. A quality that all speak o£ it well for
is that it does not spot. The ex-president,
however, disputes that it is very valuable,
and does not hesitate to put the Early Harv-
I est 2 or 3 pouits ahead of it.
iSgo.
POPULAR GARDENING.
95
Salomr. Mr. T. T. I>yon of Jtichigan
considers it third or fourth rate in quality,
and not so very aUriictive in appearance
or size. Tree not hardy; growers in Ontario
and Micliigan liave no need of it.
(irimc's (ioUlrn. Prof. Sannders spealvs
in praise of its fine iiuality, luit the men of
the fruit committee say it is not attractive
enough, and not linown enough to bring an
extra price. Its color is against it. Looks
too much like common poor stuff.
lied CdiKidii. Is a long keeper, says Mr.
T,yon,and often passes as a Baldwin in mar-
ket. Mr. Wilson states that the exporters
label any red Canadian Apple they don't
know. "Red Canada." People can not tell
how the true variety would sell.
Ben Ihivif:. Mr. Denipsey states that he
can make more money from one tree of Ben
Davis, than from one tree of any other kind.
He encourages the growth of good healthy
foliage, by judicious pruning and thinning,
and gets fine well-colored fruit. Sold his
crop at *:} per bbl. in the orchard this year.
Mr. A. Elliott says the grower who sells a
barrel to his neighbor for S2 robs him of
*1.T.5. Would not advise anyone to plant it.
The ex-president fears that wlien the con-
sumer in England gets better acquainted
with it, they will not want it any more. The
Baldwin now is gradually losing in favor,
and R. I. Greening is growing. The oppo-
sition against the poor quality of Ben Davis
among members was quite general, although
some held that its proper season was spring,
and at that time a Ben Davis was better
than no Apple.
AppJcs for Essex County. Mr. Alonson
Elliott complains that we have no good
early Apple. Early Harvest is now a failure,
scabby, cracked, etc. Red Astrachan,
Dutchess, etc., none are good. Fameuse
(Snow) is a good late fall fruit. For winter
Baldwin is good. He can afford to raise it
for SI per bbl. easier than King for *2.
Complains about tree dealers. A neighbor
bought 100 Baldwins. He has now five
Baldwins and 95 other varieties. He never
bought an Astrachan, yet has 13 of them.
The tree agent knew better what he wanted
probably. The Russet grows deformed.
Of Spitzenberg there is not a barrel of good
ones in the county. Talman Sweet is best
for baking, and a good hardy tree. Northern
Spy better adapted to heavy soil than to
light. Other Apples that find a place with
the speaker are Greening, Stark, Mann,
Canada Red, Peck's Pleasant.
Fruits for Exhibit. The discussion on
the question: Should fruits exhibited be the
honn fidi: growth of the exhibitor:- resulted
in the adoption by the Society of a resolu-
tion, that in the opinion of the Association
all exhibitors of fruits at fairs should be re-
quired to sign a declaration that the fruits
shown are of their own growth, and that
they agree to forfeit all premiums, and be
deprived of the privilege of exhibiting for
two years,if this!proves otherwise. Mr.McD.
Allan speaks against the practice of induc-
ing individuals, by premiums, to exhibit
large collections, as it is not profitable to
grow so many varieties. Premiums might,
however, be offered properly for large col-
lections exhibited by societies.
Horticulture in School Room. Mr.
Chas. W. Garfield { Michigan ) speaks very
earnestly about the problem of interesting
the young in horticluture. He does not
believe that thi^ can be done in the school-
room until the instructors themselves are
interested. This is not now the case, and
little can be hoped from that quarter at
present: but we might have neighborhood
gatherings: not such of the men only, to
talk of Apples, and how much they bring
in market, etc. The women and children
should be sandwiched in, and the gathering
be made of interest to them.— Mr. A. Mc-
Neil of the High School of Windsor tells
that he finds little difficulty in interesting
his scholars in horticultural matters, but he
does it as far as practicable by means of
object lessons. To demonstrate the prin-
ciples of budding, for instance, he takes
some young wood, and some buds to school,
and performs the operation before their
eyes. Thus they learn it easily, and are
anxious to begin practical experiments.
Hardy Fruits. Prof. Wm. Saunders,
Director of the Experiment Stations, calls
attention to the fact that in the northern
part of the Province there are thousands of
people who have as yet no fruit of any kind.
It is one of the chief objects of the stations
to introduce from similar climates in other
countries, orto originate such sorts of fruits,
especially Apples that are perfectly hardy,
so that fruit can be at every man's door.
Hopes much from Prof. Budd's and Mr.
Gibb's work. New consignments of later
Apples and of Cherries are on the way from
Russia. Seedsof fair eating Apples, Pears
and Cherries have been procured from Riga
in Russia, or north of it. Thus far 1,.500
seedlings have been grown at the stations,
and will be planted out. By making similar
experiments on a scale large enough, the
chances of success will be multiplied. Man-
itoba wants some Apples, and anything in
the line will do, if only hardy enough. An
arrangement has been made with the U. S.
authorities in Washington, D. C, for an
exchange of seeds, plants, etc., between the
United States Department of Agriculture
and Stations.
Fruit Growers' Meeting. Prof. Saund-
ers also announces that a meeting of the
Canadian fruit growers will be held at
Ottawa on Feb. nith,'20th and -Jlst, 1890, and
the Canadian government offers quite an
amount of prizes for best exhibits of Cana-
dian fruits.
Ev.\PORATlON OF FRUITS. Mr. L. B. Rice,
of Port Huron, Mich., gives an interesting
account of the gradual development of the
industry. The importance of an evaporating
establishment is not measured by the per
cent of profit it yields to the owner, but by
the amount of money brought into the
vicinity by it. A great danger is at present
threatening the evaporated Apple industry.
The^ Hamburg local authorities have for-
bidden the sale of American evaporated
apples for the reason that zinc oxide (a strong
poison) has been found on them. The pres-
ence of this oxide is due to the chemical
action of the fruit acid on the zinc with
which the galvanized iron wire screens or
trays are coated, not to the action of the sul-
phuric acid used in bleaching, as was sup-
posed by some parties. Hamburg and
Amsterdam are our principal foreign mar-
kets for evaporated Apples, and New York
exporters say that up to this date our export
demand has been next to nothing. We can
sell in Hamburgh only if the goods are ac.
companied by a chemist's certificate that
they are free from zinc. This is a grave
affair and should not be passed by lightly.
We will have to meet the case by using
wooden trays or ungalvanized wire cloth.
Here is a matter to receive the attention
of the makers of evaporating outfits.
Specialties. Mr. McD. Allan speaks in
favor of growing special crops in each sec-
tion. WTiere Peaches and Grapes succeed
as they do in this section of Canada, let
Peaches and Grapes be made a specitilty.
It pays to cultivate the soil, and to feed the
crops properly. Growers are yet too neg-
lectful in these respects. He also mentions
that it would be absurd to attempt advising
from a distance any one what varieties of
fruits to plant in a given locality. An ex-
pert can give a list of valuable fruits, but
the grower himself must select from it those
best suited to his particular soil and section.
THE COMPLETE GARDEN.*
XXXIIL
BY A WELL-KSOWS HORTICUI.'njRIST.
{Continued from page T2.) ■
CLASSIFIED LISTS OF ANNUAL AND BIENNIAL
FLOWERS.
For Key to Selection sec December Issue.
Class 6. Half-hardy Annuals and Biennials.
The kinds of annuals embraced under this
head are such as need for germination and
growth, the aid of more heat, than do the
hardy annuals, in this respect being like
Corn, Beans, Tomatoes, etc. among garden
vegetables. The seeds should therefore not
be sown outdoors until the season is some-
what advanced, say at Corn-planting time —
or when warm weather is near at hand; if
sown when the ground is cold they are
liable to rot.
H^ame, height in feet. Color. Season.
Abronia. Several
varieties— ^ ..... rose July, Aujr.
X H Acroclinium (fiose
Everlasting). Sev-
eral varieties, In-
cludiDK double — I. rose, etc . . . E verlast'g.
AlODsagrandiflora— l.scar/cf .. June, Oct.
r (()) Althiva {Hollyhoeli) in
variety— 3-6 vaiiotis .. Aug., Oct.
X Amaranthus in var-
iety. Including Lotx
Lies Bleedinij, Prin-
ecss Feather, Foun-
tain Plant, etc — 2-d.red,ete ..Augr,, Oct.
Anagallis [Pimpeniel)
in variety— 1 TAue, etc. ..June, Oct.
T Aster. In large vai--
iety and many colors
—1-3 varimis Aug., Oct.
X Braehycome iberidi-
foUa iSwan River
Daisy)— H blue Aug., Oct.
Callirhoe pedata— 2..uio!e(,«)MteJuly, Sept.
X (ft) Campanula medium
{Canterbury Bclbin
variety wh ite.pinkJune, Sept.
/ r Centaurea {Dusty Mil-
!<T)gymnocarpa— IHpurpie.
Candida— 1 white.
s Cherianthus (Wall
flower"! in var.— 1-2 ycHow, etc June,Sept.
Dahlia, Single in var . ranoiis ... July, Sept.
b Euphorbia marjinata
Variegated S^mrge)
—2 vartegotcd.Sept.
Fenzlia dianthiflora
— "^s cream.etc. June, Aug
r GaiUardiapictaiPa!n(€<i
aaiUardia)—! yellow, etc. Aug , Oct.
i( Helipterum Sanfordi
— I'^i j/ettoic. .. .Everlast'g.
Zh Linum iFlax\ Sev-
eral species and var-
ieties—1-2 i^artous . . Aug., Sept.
s Lobelia gracilis in
variety—)^ bluc,etc. June,Sept.
s{h) Mathiola biennis {In-
termcdiate and
Brompton Stocks) —
1^-2 x^arious ... June,.Vug.
!< Mesembryanthemum
glabrum(De!i'Pton()
— J4 red .. .. July, Sept,
Y Slormordica balsam-
ina {Balsam Apple)
—10 yellow.
Nemophila {Love
Grove)invaT.—%... various .. July, Sept.
Pansy. See Viola tri-
color.
fz Perilla Nankinensis. pu77)k. .. Aug.,Sept.
Y Petunia hybrids, etc.
Various— 1-1!^ .. various ...July, Oct.
Salpiglossis hybrida— l.scaWet . . Aug., Sept.
r Seypanthuselegans— 5yf!;uic. Aug., Sept.
Th Verbena hybrida— ?4 various July, Oct
Y Viola tricolor {Pansy
or HeaiVs Ease).
Many varieties . .varimis May, Nov.
f Zea Japonica (Japan-
ese Striped Maize)— o July, Sept.
Class 7. Tender Annnals, Perennials etc.
Tender annuals require even more heat
for germination and growth than do the
half-hardy class, their needs being similar
in this respect to Squashes, Peppers, Egg
•Copyright, 1887. Popular Gardening Publishing Co.
96
POPULAR GARDENING.
January,
Plant, etc. among culinary vegetables. If
the seeds therefore are sown in the open
air before hot weather sets in, little or no
growth need be expected while failure from
decay may result. This class in common
with half-hardy annuals is often brought
on by sowing the seeds in heat under glass,
and advancing them here to be of some
size before setting into the open ground.
b Amaranthus tricolor
( Jascp?rs C'oaf )— 3 ...tricolor July, Sept
Z Balsamina impatiens
(Balsam, Lady Slip-
per). Many var.—l-ivarious July, Sept.
X Browalia elata (Am^-
thyst). Two var — blue, white July, Aug.
V Calempelisscaber(£c-
cremocarptts Vine)
—10 .oranflfi .... Aug., Sept.
b Canna Indica (iTidian
Shot) DartoMS... Aug., Sept.
Ys Celosia cristata'.Cocfcs-
comb) crinison,e(cAug.,Sept.
Ts Canna Indica (Scarlet
Fruiting Gourd)— 6 . red Aug., Sept.
V Cucumus flexuosus,
etc. iSnalie Melon)
—10 yellow Aug., Sept.
X V Curcubitaaurantiaca,
etc. {Orange Gourd,
cf-c.,)— 10 yellow .Aug.,Sept.
X I' Doliehos lablab (Hya-
cinth Bean) in var-
iety—16 jmrple. ... Aug., Sept.
Eutoca Wrangeliana
—1 litac July, Aug.
u Gomphrena globosa
(G/obe ^maraii(h)..red, etc . . - Everlast'g.
8 Impatiens Sultana
(Perennial Balsam) .red July, Sept.
Martynia fragrans
{Fragrant 31artynia)purple ... .Aug., Sept.
V V Maurandia Barclay-
aaa-fl 6!««, etc.. .June,Sept.
b Mimosa pudica(Sensi-
tive Plant)— I pink.
Mimulus hybridum
{Miinlscy Flower) in
variety various .. July, Sept.
8 Moschatus (Mush
Plant) yellow. .. .July, Sept.
V Mukia scabrella (Scar-
let-fruited Mukia).. yellow .. .Sept.
t> Phaseolus multiflorua
{Scarlet Flowered
Bean)— 10 scarlet .. .July,Sept.
Z Portulaca splendeng
{Sun Plant) in var-
iety, double and
single— H .various .. June,Sept.
u RhodantUe Manglesi
1-3 rose, etc ... Everlast'g.
X b Ilicinus (Castor OU
Bean) in var. — 4-10. rorious... Aug., Sept.
Senecio elegans (Jaco-
bea) in variety— 1 . .varivus . . July, Aug.
s Solanum capsicas-
trum (Jerusalem
Cherry) . i«/ulc.
u ThuDbergia alata and
other varieties— 4 . . j/ci!o(i',e(c. . June, Sept.
Vinca {Madagascar
Periwinkle) in var . .vaiHous — July, Sept.
Class 8. Bulbs, Eoots and Tubers that are
Annual in character. These are such as
require to be planted annually and which
during the season produce offsets, which
in turn are taken up in the autumn and
again planted the following spring to per-
petuate the stock, the old bulb or tuber
dying after it has formed a new plant and
a new crop of offsets.
b Caladium esculentum— 3-4.
6 Canna Indica hybrida. Many named and
other varieties— 3-8.
Dahlia, double and single Many named
and other \'arieties-;i-8.
Er.vthrina cistgalli (Coral Plant)~3-&.
Gladiolus in many named varieties— 3-4.
Hyacinthus candicans (Galtoiiia)- 3.
V Madeira Vine— 30.
OxaUs Several species and varieties— 1
Tuberose, Double-3.
Tigridia {Tiger flaurr). Several varieties— 1
Tritiima tliiil lint /'.Ar;i-3-4,
b Richardia fStmtteil (ViHa)— 1-3.
(To be Continued.)
An Automatic Rainwater Switch.
The accompanying figure shows a useful
device for preventing the first or dirty water
from a roof running into a cistern, thus
serving to keep the contents of the reservoir
comparatively pure and fit for culinary and
similar uses. The suggestion comes from
Mr. F. N. Landis, Franklin Co., Pa.
In the engraving A represents the con-
ductor from the roof, and which terminates
in the tilting switch D. B is the pipe lead-
ing to the cistern, C is a flaring receiver at-
tached to the pipe below and shaped to re-
ceive one end of the switch D when the
An Automatic Rainwater Switch
latter is tilted in that direction. E is a bar-
rel for receiving the first water from the
roof. F is a float of a piece of plank and
which is connected with the switch above
by a rod G. H is a faucet for drawing off
the contents of the barrel.
The operation of this self-acting device is
very simple. Previous to a rain the differ-
ent features are in the different positions
shown in the engraving with the switch D
leading towards the barrel. Then when
it rains the water from the roof is at first
conveyed toward the barrel. As the barrel
fills up and the water reaches float F this is
raised and simultaneously with it the bar-
rel-end of the switch, until by the time the
barrel is full, the switch has tilted over into
receiver C and from thence the water is
carried into the cistern.
Horticulture in New Jersey.
The New Jersey State Society held its l.'ith
annual meeting at Trenton, December 18th
and Wth, 1889. The attendance at these
meetings is usually fair: but it is often a
matter of wonder to us, that it is not .several
times as large in a state where fruit and
vegetable growing takes the most promi-
nent place in agriculture, and while so
much effort is expended for making the
meetings interesting and instructive.
Election of Officehs. This was held
on the second day, and resulted as follows:
Ralph Egge, Hopewell, president : W. C.
Idell, Hoboken, vice-president; E.Williams,
Montclair, secretary, re-elected; Chas. L.
Jones, Newark, treasurer, re-elected.
Secretary's Report. It is not a plea-
sant picture that Mr. E. Williams unrolls
before our eyes when speaking of the past
season's achievements of the soil tiller in
New Jersey. Weeds, water, fungi and in-
sects have been the principal crops. With
much feeling the secretary refers to the
death of Prof. Geo. H. Cook, who always
was one of the most ardent supporters of
the society. If an honest man is the noblest
work of God, it was well exemplified in
Prof. Cook's life.
Discussion on New Fruits. The late
Mr. Caywood's Crystal, a white Raspberry,
is highly spoken of by Dr. Ward. It is very
much better than Golden Queen, finer
flavored, better colored, and quite produc-
tive.
Nothing can be said about Grapes, since
the season has been an abnormal one. Dr.
Ward is pleased with Minnewaski Black-
berry.
The older varieties of Strawberries are
yet principally grown for market; Sharpless,
however, is being discarded as unproductive.
Mr. Beebe has a seedling of Sharpless which
promises to fill the bill.
It seems that there has been somewhat of
a lull in the introduction of "new wonder-
ful fruits" this season, or the introducers
have been afraid to put them into the hands
of the fruit committee for testing.
Lecture on Drainage. Mr. C. C. George-
son (late Professor of the Imperial College
of Agriculture, Tokio, Japan) speaks in
favor of tile draining against other methods.
Land worth $.50 and upwards per acre, if it
requires draining at all, can be drained with
profit, and the more valuable the land, the
greater is the necessity to increase its pro-
ductiveness. Our fruit crops are yet too
often injured by an excess of water in the
soil; and the cost of thorough underdrain-
ing would in many cases be repaid several
times over by a single crop.
In this climate we have no crop that could
be grown in swamps, except we have more
or less control over the water supply. In
Japan the Rush is grown on such wet spots
for matting, and it is a valuable crop. It is
cut once a year. Perhaps we might try it
here.
Among the benefits derived from draining.
Prof. Georgeson enumerates the following:
1, It renders the soil more porous, hence it
admits air needed for nitrification and other
chemical action on the soil, 3, it makes soil
warmer, a thermometer test gave ten de-
grees higher temperature in drained than
in undramed land; 3, it lengthens the sea-
son, as drained soil can be worked earlier;
4, it prevents excessive baking of the soil;
5, plants in drained soil do not suffer as
much from drought as those ou uiidrained
land; 6, drainage diminishes surface wastes;
7, it increases the yield, and improves the
quality of all crops.
Open ditches should only be used where
covered ones are impracticable. Stone
drains may be used where tiles are not
easily accessible and the removal of stones
is desirable. On soils with heavy clay sub-
soil where the surface is even, and no
obstructions in the soil, drains that will
work well for a time may be made easily
and rapidly with a mold plow. But all
such methods are mere make shifts, and the
tile drain is the only perfect one. Round
tile is best. The less the fall, the larger
must be the tile. Usually 1}{ inside dia-
meter is sutflcient for the laterials; 3 or 3
inch tile for the mains. Provision must be
made to carry off the spring water, and .50
per cent of the rainfall. To lay out the
drains, a person acquainted with use of
level snould be employed. The outlet
should lie the lowest part of the field; the
main along the lowest line; the laterals
parallel and equi distant. In tenacious clay .
the laterals should not be wider than 35 feet
apart. The fall should be at least 1 in 600.
Begin at lower end, and ditch up; also lay
tile in same way. The junction should be
laid by a careful person, ahd made with the
junction or branch pipe where it can be had.
Ijay the best few tiles at each end of a
lateral in a course to facilitate the flow.
Collars are now made to fit over the joints
for the purpose of keeping out dirt. They
are very convenient. Make the outlet in a
substantial manner, and cover the mouth
with a wire screen to keep out vermin.
Roots of trees, especially Willows, are apt
to enter and obstruct the drains. Where
[890.
POPULAR GAPDENING.
91
this is a serious danger, the small tiles may
be encased in a larger size, so that inside
and outside joints alternate. The collars
alone are in a measure a preventive. Where
said methods are not employed, the trees
may be given a thorough root pruning once
a year. Vermin often finds its way into
the drains, and can only be removed by
taking them up.
PiiEsiPEXT's Address. President David
Baird in his annual address calls attention
to the continued low scale of
prices for all fruits, and wants
the society to find remedies if
possible. The influence of stock
upon cion and I'icc vcrmx is yet
a subject for investigation. The
privileges of a good garden and
fruit patch, of lawn, shrubbery,
flowers and plenty of good read-
ing, are named as contracting
influences to wayward tenden-
cies in the young. The society,
he says, can do much good in
throwing its influence against
the practice of nurserymen, etc.,
of introducing worthies novel-
ties, or old things under new
names. Spraying fruit trees
with arsenical poisons, best
methods and results, is recom-
mended as a subject for discus-
sion at the meeting.
Mr. J. B. Rogers, commenting
on the address, says that in-
sects have injured the Apple
crop in recent years at the rate
of .*1 a barrel. This is the opin-
ion of expert Apple dealers.
Better Apples are now coming
from Western New York, and
the reason of it is, that the
growers there spray their trees.
More ox Drainage.— Mr.
Boynton tells us that soft-burnt
tUe is by no means the best, as
is often supposed. Collars over
the joints are a good thing, and heavy as-
phalt or tarred building paper rapped
around the joints is next best. The main
should be laid with especial care, as any ob-
struction in It would make the whole sys-
tem ineffective. To facilitate inspection of
the main when needed, basins or wells
should be sunk every 200 feet along the
main. These extend somewhat below the
line of tiles, and the heighth of water in the
bottom indicates where the drain is in
working order, and where it is not.
(To be Continued.)
Mezeron Pink, April; Golden Bell(Foc.s!/»i(ii)
May; Japan Quince, May; Flowering Plums
May; Flowering Almonds, May; Lilacs,
May; Viburnums, May and June; Honey-
suckles, May; Mock (Grange, June; Snow-
balls, .lune; Deutzins, June; Weigelas,.Iune;
Clethra, July; Spiraeas, May to September;
Hydrangeas, August to October; Altheas,
(Rose of Sharon) August and September;
Purple Fringe, July to September. In the
margins of the various shmb-groupa, there
ROW OF GRAPE VINES
VEGETABLE GARDEN
j!j>>,
&^
LAWN \ / ^i-J
f^i
Improving the Home Surroundings.
A subscriber from the State of Massa-
chusetts sends to this office a sketch of his
home grounds size 100x100 feet with the
request for some suggestions on arranging
the same. With the few particulars at our
command we have indicated how the vari-
ous features which should contribute to a
pleasant home garden might be arranged.
The main idea of this plan is to have the
home immediately surrounded with a grass
plat embellished with trees, shrubs, and
flowering plants, with the garden and fruit
patch beyond the lawn to the rear and side.
On each side of the front walk at the entrance
from the street it is suggested that an
irregular clump of flowering shrubs be
placed and another one at the left-hand side
of the front lawn near the street, and yet
another and larger one to the side of the
house in the direction of the small fruit
plat. The free use of shrubs is recommend-
ed for the reason that no class of embellish-
ments is more satisfactory on the home lawn.
Take a limited selection embracing the
kinds which follow and they will yield a
succession of bloom from April until Octo-
ber, and once planted they are permanent.
ARRANGING A HOME PLAT, SIZE 100 BY 100 FEET.
may be set numerous hardy and other flow-
ering plants also.
I Besides the shrubs a few ornamental
'' trees may beset over the lawTi, as indicated,
including the evergreens to the north of
the rear part of the house. A few Apple
or other fruit trees could also be employed
in the rear lawn and at the end of the veget-
able garden.
Ohio State Horticultural Society.
(Condensed report of Twenty-third Annual Meeting
held at Columbus, December nth to Vith, 1389.)
Prof. Weed read a very instructive paper
on remedies and preventives for injury by
insects and fungi.
This year's results in spraying Plums and
Cherry trees with London purple to prevent
damage by curculio confirmed the opinion
expressed last year that it was effectual if
thoroughly done. On sprayed trees only
'22 8-10 per cent, on trees not sprayed 56 per
cent of its fruit was injured; 63,500 Cher-
ries were examined in the various tests.
He used one ounce purple to ten gallons
of water, but thought a weaker solution
might be equally effective. (B. F. Albaugh
reported native Plums and Peach trees
injured by a solution of this strength).
These two classes of trees were said to be
more susceptible to damage by spraying
than other trees. European Plum trees
sprayed with the solution of purple with
the addition of the Bordeaux mixture to
prevent rot, bore an enormous crop but the
Bordeaux mixture adhered to the Plums at
picking time and had to be removed by
washing in a weak solution of vinegar and
water. Eau Celestes would probably answer
as well as the Bordeau mixture and not
adhere to the fruit so long. Three or four
weeks should intervene between spraying
with arsenites and the use of the fruit.
The Cherry tree slug might be destroyed
by spraying with London purple, Pyre-
thrums or Helibore.
Among a great number of remedies for
damage by the Cucumber beetle covering
the plants with a thin gauze was found to
be the most efficient.
The only known preventive for the Straw-
berry root louse which has appeared around
Columbus, was in rotation not fertilizing
the patch only one year, and avoiding set-
ting plants from infected fields.
The French mixtures (Bor-
deaux and Eau Celeste) were
said to be as effectual in com-
batting fungi as the arsenites
were in destroying Insects. The
copper mixture would also pre-
vent leaf spot on the Quince,
(not Apple scab), and were bene-
ficial in preventing Potato rot
and blight. Mr. Weed, contrary
to the general opinion,had found
London purple when procured
in unbroken packages direct
from the manufactures very
uniform in strength,
Mr. Harrison of Painesville
related an instance where a cow
was poisoned by pasturing in
an orchard immediately after
spraying. N. H. Albaugh spoke
of several cases which seemed
to prove that ordinarily there
was little or no danger owing
to the very small amount of
poison which would fall upon
the grass. M. T. Thompson had
found Tobacco dust effective
for the flea bealte.
Novelties, worthless and other-
wise. Prof. Green spoke of the
E^'x work of the experiment stations,
fj -^and expressed the hope that the
"^.S^time would come when the
public could be protected from
the introducors of novelties
new varieties or old varieties under new
names, and the originator of varieties really
valuable receive a just reward.
Baspberries. Gregg stUl stands at the
head as the best late berry where successful
Palms was highly praised by all who had
tested it as the best early blackcap. It is
no earlier than Doolittle, Tyler,or Souhegan
but ripens the bulk of its crop earlier, and
is larger and more productive. Hilboro
was considered the best second early. Ada
was doing remarkably well with some and
disappointing others. Washington was
said by M. Crawford to be of the same class
as Shaffer's, but hardier, more productive,
firmer and of better quality, but not quite
as large. Marlboro was recommended for
family use but not for market. Summer
pruning of its red varieties was not advised.
Blackberries and red Raspberries might be
planted in the fall but not the Blackcaps.
Blackberries. Erie was about as hardy as
Kittatinny, had withstood 13° below zero.
N. Omer said cultivate thoroughly until
the fmlt was gathered then stop to allow
the wood to ripen. By this means he had
been able to grow the Kittatinny safely.
Snyder the most satisfactory generally.
Constructing Under Drains.
MUd weather during .January often gives
us a fair chance to resume or continue
ditching, and where ditches are needed, no
opportunity to construct them should be
allowed to pass unimproved. President W.
I. Chamberlain makes some excellent sug-
gestions concerning the construction of
under-drains in Coimtry Gentleman.
The Grade. — The mains he says should
follow the natural depressions where the
water runs ofiE upon the surface in wet times.
98
POPULAR GARDENING.
January,
of course straightening the crooks some-
what. If there is a regular slope like the
roof of a house, only not so steep, the mains
shoulil take the place of the eaves troughs,
and the laterals, if any, shoulrl run straight
down the slope as nearly as may be. If the
fall is very slight, it may need a field level-
ing instrument to lay out the system. But
usually a very wet time is the best to locate
drains. A furrow plowed then by the eye
will work its own grade or show it.
Digging Ditches.— It you have not a
ditching machine, use a heavy breaking
plow and strong team to throw out the first
eight or ten inches, only drive straight. If
possible, dig when there is just enough
moisture down deep to ooze slowly into the
bottom of the ditch as you dig. Begin the
spade digging at the outlet and work along
up the mains and laterals. The water will
show the level. Permit no dips or depres-
sions. Dig as narrow and true as possible
to the required depth, and groove the bottom
of the ditch with a bottoming scoop of size
adapted to the tiles used. This and the
ditching spades, at least, you should have
for 3,000 feet of tiling. I usually establish
the grade pretty nearly with the plow, plow-
ing deeper through knolls, and shallower
through depressions, and then dig two or
three depths of the spade, according to depth
required, keeping the spade at the same
angle all the time, and thrusting it full
depth each time. This preserves the grade.
It takes a true eye. If you have not one
naturally, you had better hire a good, prac-
tical tile ditcher, and learn of him a few
days. That was what I did at first. If
there was no water in the .soil to show level,
the surest way is to draw some into the
Held and, when your eye on the span level
says your groove is cut straight and true
for a hundred feet or more, turn in ,iust
enough water at the upper end to test it.
It takes less water than you would think
and is aljsolutely sure. If it stands any-
where in long puddles, you must cut down
the high portions until no puddles remain.
Laying Tiles.— The groove should be cut
so that the tiles will fit without rolling and
shall touch bottom all the way. Different
sized scoops should be used for different
sized tiles. Lay the tiles from the outlet
np stream, look thi-ough each tile to see
that it is clear of obstructions and lay it so
that it will not rock or wobble, i. c, curved
up, and not down in the middle, if curved
at all. Chuck it up tight against the pre-
ceding tile and then step forward upon it
and lay the next. I prefer to stand in the
ditch, lay each tile by hand and stand on it
to press it firmly to its place. Assort the
tiles in scattering them along the ditch so
that the harder burned (smaller; ones shall
come together and not be mixed among the
softer burned ones. But lay none that are
not hard burned enough to give a clear,
metallic ring when struck with a hammer,
and, lay no cracked 'or broken ones. For
junction with the latterals get from the
kiln, if possible, main tiles with junctions
formeil, or at least, holes cut for junctions.
If you have to cut with a trowel, use great
care and secure great perfection. Remem-
ber all the time that the drain, if well laid,
should last 100 years or more, but if not well
laid, it may not last a year; also that it is
no better than its poorest part.
Covering Tiles.— First, stand in the ditch
when the,tiles are laid, and with the ditch-
ing spade shovel in the fine clay (the sub-
soil last dug out) and see that it rattles or
fills clear down on both sides of the tiles.
Tramp very thoroughly with the feet as you
All, until you have llUed in some eight
inches deep. The rest may be plowed in by
running a very long evener and long inside
lines and having one horse on each side of
the ditch. If possible, the Held drained in
the fall should have been tilled in hoed
crops all summer. The soil and subsoil are
more moist early in fall, and dig far more
easily than when in turf, or even in wheat
or oats. Still further, the filling by teams
is far easier, and the plowing of the field
for the next crop will efface all signs of the
ditch. In digging to fill with the plow,
about half of the earth had best be thrown
on each side.
Sizes of Tiles, etc.— In very compact
clay subsoil, thorough drainage requires
laterals from thirty-three to fifty feet apart,
to drain the soil rapidly and thoroughly
enough to prevent damage to crops after very
heavy rains. This porous soil of Iowa will
"draw" 100 feet or more each side of a main
laid in a ''draw" or "slough," and main
drains through depressions, branching up
minor depressions, will usually be enough.
On my farm the laterals thirty-three feet
apart and with good fall, are all two-inch
tiles and are large enough. With fair fall,
a tile will drain an area equal to one-half its
diameter (In Inches) squared. That is, a
two-inch tile should carry the water from
one acre (two divided by two and squared), a
four-inch tile four acres, a five-inch tile
about six acres, and a six-inch tile about nine
acres; the less the grade, the wider the
"suction range" and the longer the drain,
the larger the tiles required. A drain may
begin at its lower end with four-inch tiles
and diminish to three and then to two to-
wards its upper end.
The Vallota or Scarborougfh Lily as a
Show Plant for Amateurs.
We want to give a hint now to those per-
sons who delight to grow fine pot plants
either for their own sake or for the purpose
of exhibition at the horticultural shows to
come next August and September. It is
with reference to the use of the valuable
plant named in the heading of this article.
Without question there is not another plant
in cultivation that It is possible to bring to a
finer appearance of foliage and flowers by
August next then can be done with this easi-
ly managed bulb. And yet we would say to
those who are accustomed to have but a
weak plant in a pot with two or three flower
scapes, that they can hardly form an ade-
quate idea of the extreme attractiveness of a
specimen bearing from 15 to 20 scapes and
forming a solid mass of brilliant scarlet
Howers.
The proper course to take, when desired to
form large specimens, is to commence with
eight or more bulbs in each pot, and then
examples of the most magnificent propor-
tions can be produced in a comparatively
short period. The best rule is to begin with
eight or ten-inch pots, and put as many
bulbs in each one as it will hold, without
their being overcrowded.
The bulbs are now at rest, and very favor-
able opportunity is afforded for proceeding
with the formation of specimens. The pots
must be well drained by having a layer of
crocks, ranging from two to three inches in
thickness, placed in each, and this layer
must be covered with some loose material to
prevent the fine soil working down between
them, flaky leaf-mould being very suitable,
or that wanting Moss, or Sphagnum may be
used. The compost most suitable is one
consisting of mellow fibrous loam four
parts, and well-rotted manure from an old
hotbed, leaf-mould, and sharp .sand, one
part each.
Fill the pots to about one-half their depth
with the prepared compost, placing a little
of the rougher part immediately over the
material upon the crocks. Make it moder-
ately firm, and then proceed to arrange the
bulbs, and in so doing, well work the soil
between the roots and press it moderately
firm. The bulbs should be so arranged that
they are equally distributed over the pot, and
buried just deep enough for the whole of
the neck to be exposed.
It may be remarked that the appearance
of the specimens will be materially improved
by the elegant foliage of small bulbs peep-
ing up here and there amongst the large
leaves of the flowering bulbs. Especially is
the small foliage desirable round the edge
of the pots; and, as far as practicable, bulbs
that have an offset attached to them should
be placed outside. If a few small offsets are
available, they may be distributed amongst
the large bulbs for the sake of the finish
they give.
Very little water will be required for the
bulbs, until it is seen that they are commenc-
ing to make new growth, still the soil ought
never to be allowed to become dust dry and
remain so for any length of time. When in
full growth, Vallotas require rather liberal
supplies of water, and examples that have
filled their pots with roots will be immense-
ly benefited by weak liquid manure occa-
sionally. The best time tor application of
stimulants being during the interval be-
tween the appearance of the flower scapes
and the expansion of the flowers, as it is
during that period the new growth is in
active progress.
The Scarborough Lily being not at all deli-
cate in nature, may be grown in the open
air after the end of May, and when the
plants are placed out of doors, a rather sha-
dy position should be selected. Probably,
the best quarters that could ;be found for
them during the summer season, are in spa-
cious pit covered with sash, plants be within
a moderate distance of the glass and enjoy
a free circulation of air about them.
There is one other point which must be
alluded to, and that is the liking which
slugs show for the flower scapes when first
making their appearance. Therefore wher-
ever these marauders abound, the closest
watch should be kept upon the plants dur-
ing the time the buds are pushing up, or
much damage will be done. As these pests
feed in the night, they should be taken by
the help of a lamp.
Nevir York Market IQuotatlons,
Showing Tendencies.
Week eniiing
Dec. 18.
Apples— We.^tern King, perbbl.. .S50(a4 00
Western Greening, perbbl.. 2 75(?3 25
Western Baldwin, per bbl 2 75@2 25
We.stem Spy, per bbl 2 25'<i2 75
state Winter Mixed, per bbl. 2 00(!j2 .W
Greening up-river, per bbl..
Baldwin & Spy. per bbl
Grape.s— ConcnrdW.N.Y.,51b.b't. 22® 25
Catawba, W.N.Y.,. Sib. basil. S6@ 45
Cranberries— Cape Cod. per cr'te 3 (Ht®3 50
Jersey, per crate 2 75@3 25
Oranges— Florida, per H bbl box 1 5(i(«2 50
Tangerines, Fla., per box 4 00@6 00
Mandarins, Fla., per box 8 0l«r«4 00
Apples— Ev,iporated, 1889 7 -gilO
Evaporated, 1888 6 ® 7}<
N. C . , sliced. 1889 Sfj®, 04
Ohio & Michigan. 1889. bbls.. 4^4® 5
Tennessee, 1889, bags S^nj SJj
Chopped, per lb 3H>®
Cores ami Skins. I'-'S'.l. per II). 2'^.('t '2\i
Peaches— Del. evp'lil.pi'il.d'<N. ir, mJij
Del., evap't'd. iiiii'eclcd S4, , , s dtlit
N.C. sundrlcd, pe.-lcd wi . s ■■■.U
Oa. siinclrlc.l. p.clc.l.iss'.i.... (;i,_.m v<,
Soutlicni. inip.'.-led, Iswl,,,, i',.,!..; :!
Ra.spberrie>-Evnpl'<l 1SS9 W (*2I
Kundried 1889 21 @?2
Cherries— 1^49. per lb., choice... 9 @12
Hu(klebirrlc.s--18.89, per lb 11 ®
Blackbcrrlis priiiie. perlb S ® Sk
riuras— Slate, issii, per lb 8 a 8)^
Soutlieni I ■unison, 1889, p. lb. ® 7
Cal,. IWI, per ili 8 ® 9
Apricots, Cal., 1889, per lb 12 al4
Potatoes-L. 1., bulk per bbl. ... 1 S7®2 CO
Jersey, per bbl I 2.'i®l 75
State, per bbl 1 50® 1 87
Western, per bbl 1 00@1 87
Sweet Jersev, per bbl 2 50®3 75
Virginia YeUow, perbbl.. .
Oabbage-L. I., per 100 5 00®7 00
Cucumber— Florida, per crate 2 00@5 00
Egg plaut-Florlda, per bbl 4 00@6 1)0
SI TlnK Ileims- Sf.ulh'n, p. crate. 2 0fl@4 00
Caullll..wer-|.er l.lil 2 I10®7 00
(.)nions < irunge Co.. red, p. bbl. 1 50(52 50
Westiru. red, per bbl 1 50®2 25
Eastern, red, perbbl 225®3 00
Eastern, white, per bbl 5 00®S 00
Yellow, per bbl 1 50®2 00
Siniash- L. 1., Marrow, iier bbl. . 1 25®1 50
L. I., llubbar.i. per bbl 1 .50@1 75
Clelery— L. I., pcrdoz. bunches.. 75@1 50
Wes'n & State, p.doz. roots.
Turnips- Russia.Canada, p. bbl. 75® 90
Russia, L. 1., perbbl 7.5®U0
Week ending
Dec. 4
4 00(si4 6a
2 60(»3 0o
2S0(B3ai
2 25(«2 50
150(52 23
3 0O@2 25
1 75® 2 00
20® 28
25® SO
'i 5^3 00
(i 00®; n-i
4UO(?oS
10
5 &
a^jM ;
,20
i.ii.
2«® S^
2.1 " "
21
9
11
5
8
j3
|24
e22
1 <%
8 ® ,,
io (S) 9
'■ fflH>^
12502 00
1 25®1 t2
1 110®! 87
2 50SU87
2 25®3 .'0
3 .50®5 00
1 5Kui to
3 0O(»6 00
I 50®1 75
1 oivae (»)
1 50(u 2 50
1 50®2 25
2 35®3 00
3 00@5 00
1 60@2 00
1 00®1 25
1 25®1 50
7.%«1 00
20® 35
60® 65
76® 90
POPULAR GARDENING
AND FRUIT GROWING.
"AVCUSE NOT NATURE, SEE HATH DONE HEU PART: DO THOV BUT THINE." -Miuroti.
Vol. V.
rFEBiarr-A-iair, is so.
No. 5.
Already the feet of the winter fly.
And the pulse of the earth begins to leap.
Waking up from her frozen sleep.
And knowing the beautiful spring is nigh.
Good St. Valentine wanders by.
Pausing hl.s festival gay to keep—
Already the feet of the winter fly.
And the pulse of the earth begins to leap.
To life she wakes ; and a smile and a sigh-
Language the seoflfer holds so cheap-
Thrill her with melody dear and deep.
And sp'-ing with its mating time is nigh ;
Already the feet of the winter fly.
And the pulse of the earth begins to leap.
—Independent.
Let there be light in the center of fruit
trees.
The.htdiciocs planter begins his season's work
early bj- studjing catalogues, and sending his
orders for planting stock. Early bird has many
advantasres
PENNSYI.TANIA HORTICULTURAL .SOCIETY. G.
W. Childs took the chair as president of the
Society on Jan. 21st This is his first acceptance
of any responsibilit.v of the kind, and the society
may well be congratulated.
Improved Packages. At the horticultural
meetings we note with great satisfaction evi-
dences of continual efforts on the part of mechan-
ical geniuses to improve fruit packages and ship-
ping devices in the direction of lightness,
simpbcity, neatness and cheapness iV wire box
handle which serves as a spring to take off the
jar is the latest.
American Horticulture Society. The
expense of the trip to Austin, Texas, the place
of meeting, will be very reasonable. A special
train will leave St. Louis at 8.10 p.m. on Feb. 13th.
Railroad tickets to Austin and return, good
going on this special train, and returning at any-
time within 30 days are to be sold at St. Louis on
Feb. 12th and 13th for S2).35. Fruit growers and
gardeners who desire to see something of Te.vas
at the least possible expense, and attend a good
horticultural meeting at same time, can com-
bine the two objects by joining the society, if
they have not already dtjne so, and remitting the
sum of $2 00 to Sec'y W. H. Kagan, Greencastle,
Ind.
Who is Successful. Notwithstanding the
complaints against the past unfavorable season
for horticulturists, heard from many directions,
the fact remains that thousands of growers of
fruits and vegetables in the vicinity of American
villages and towns have had a profitable season.
The growing of a good assortment of products
near where people are massed together in large
numbers, may always be attended with paying
results. When one thing fails, others do not.
Then people, as a rule, are anything but well
supplied with a large and varied assortment of
well-grown vegetables and garden fruits. These
grown and offered in attractive shape hardly ever
fail to And ready buyers at a good profit
Evaporated Apples. To judge from all the
reports now being received, the crop of evapo-
rated Apples on hand is not so large that the
disinclination of -\msterdam and Hamburg
authorities to permit the importation of the
American product, will be seriously felt for a
time. The full extent of the injury done us,
however may not be known until the next full
crop of Apples is grown, worked up, and ready
for market. In the mean time it will be well and
wise to consider the most promising means of
counteracting the prejudice of our foreign cus-
tomers. Our fruit growers and evaporator men,
as well as our professors and chemical authorities
all seem to be very much agreed that Apples
as commonly bleached and evaporated, are en-
tirely wholesome, and safe to use.
Nomenclature of Coix)r.s. To describe the
colors, shades and tints of flowers and fruits
correctly is often a hard task, and impossible for
most people, on account of too slight acquain-
tance with the nomenclature of colors. In this
matter we meet with two serious obstacles; one
being the lack of a generally recognized standard
of colors: the other lack of opportunity to ac-
quire a knowledge of the true nrjracnclature. First
of all we need a standard of colons and it seems
to us that the Pomological Society or the Depart-
ment of Agriculture might take this matter in
hand. Tl^e publication of an official chart of
colors would do much in the direction of ac<iuaint-
ing people with the true nomenclature of colors
and of avoiding confusion. This is well worthy
of the attention of the U. S. Pomologist.
Society of American Florists. The Execu-
tive Committee of this Association met at Boston
Jan. 14th, with President Jordan in the chair.
The secretary and treasurer's report showed the
finances of the Society to be in a more encourag-
ing condition than heretofore. Much enthusiasm
was shown regarding the next annual conven-
tion, for indeed there is much to hope of any
meeting pertaining to ornamental horticulture
in a city with such advanced ideas in this line
as is possessed by Boston. The Massachusetts
Horticultural Society will donate the use of their
elegant Horticultural Hall, and also change time
of their summer show to same week, occupying
Music Hall for that purpose. The annual meet-
ing of the Americar: Cemetery Superintendents'
Association will also be held in Boston on same
days, with sessions held in the afternoons, when
the S. A. F. holds none. This arrangement will
admit of attendance to both meetings by those
desiring it. The following is a preliminarj' list
of subjects to be treated in papers for next meet-
ing, viz.: Landscape Gardening; Cultivation and
Care of Best 25 Hardy Plants for Commercial
Use; Public Interest in the Work and (Objects of
the Society; Entomology in its Relation to
Florists; Growing Importance of EasterTrade and
Preparations for it: Aquatics: Cacti; Horticul-
tural Exi.ibits and Agricultural Fair; The Value
of Methods and System in the Florist's Business:
Horticultural Chemistry. The question box, as
usual, will be an important feature, touching on
many of the rttal.interests of floriculture. Plant
men and dealers will be accommodated for a trade
display in Horticultural Hall basement. A gen-
eral display of ornamental specialties will be
made in connection with the show in Music Hall
Altogether the outlook for the present years'
work is most gratifying.
Western New York Fruit Growers.
The Western Xew York Horticultural
Society held its 35th annual meeting in
Rochester on .January 22cl and 2.3d. The
large number always present at these gath-
erings almost filling the spacious hall; the
spirited discussions in which all seem to
participate freely; the array of fine speci-
mens of Pears, Apples, Grapes and other
fruits on the aldermauic tables, as products
of a season extremely unfavorable to their
fullest development ; all these show the
vast importance of the fruit growing indus-
try in Western New York, and indicate the
reliability and value of the pomological
truths here brought out.
PRE.SIDENTIAL SUGGESTloxs. President
Patrick Barry, debarred from attendance by
hygienic considerations, sends a letter stat-
ing that the permanent fund of the society,
the substantial neuclus of which was fur-
nished by Mr. Barry's -iijOOO gift a year ago,
has now reached nearly ■*4,000 by other con-
tributions. The presitlent hopes that other
public-spirited people will contribute for the
good of the cause, and that the fund will he
large enough to enable the society to offer
competitive prizes, etc.
While we are near good markets, rapid
transit favors competitors as well as our-
selves, and we must try to meet this com-
petition by increased energy and improved
methods. In conclusion, Mr. Barry says
that being unable to perform the duties of
the presidential oflBce any longer, he lays it
down with profound gratitude, and with an
aflfectionate regard for the society.
Mr. S. D. Willard, amid hearty applause,
remarks that Patrick Barry should continue
to be president of the association as long as
as he could write "yours truly.''
The House Fly. Mr. C. li. Zimmerman
presents a paper giving the life history of
muca domestica, the common house fly,
which he says is at home in barn yards, fields
and gardens as much as in the house. They
breed in warm, fermenting horse manure,
requiring from the time the egg is laid to
the development of the winged fiy a period
of about two weeks. Consequently, if the
manure is carted out of the bam yard once
a week and .spread iu the fields, the breeding
place of the fly will be destroyed and its
propagation cheked. Screens in doors and
windows will keep the flies out that may be
bred in neighbor's yards.
Dr. Lintnersays while instances are known
of the flesh fly having communicated disease
there is hardly any danger of the common
house fly doing so.
Insects. Dr. J. A. Lintner, State Ento-
mologist, in his paper "Late Experience
with Injurious Insects in Orchard and Gar-
den," cheers the assembled fruit growers
with the assurance that there is every pros-
pect that within a few years almost every
insect now troubleing the fruit grower, will
be brought under control. An association
known as that of Economic Entomologists
had been formed during the year, having
for its ob.iect co-operation in experiments,
etc. The force-pump is destined to play an
important part in our warfare with insect
pests. To go without it is costly neglect.
In the preparation of arsenical solutions the
minimum amount be used that will answer
its purpose. In no case should the solution
be of greater strength than one pound of
poison to 200 gallons of water. Foliage of
more advanced growth seems to be more
liable to injury from arsenical applications
than when first put forth. Of all fruit trees
the Peach is the most readily injured. Paris
green is preferable to some fruits; London
purple is less injurious to others. White
arsenic is not safe to use, especially when
disolved by boiling or otherwise.
{To be Continued.)
The Artistic Arrangement of Paths.
L. B. PIERCE, SUMMIT CO., O.
The time has passed when argument was
necessary to convince the average citizen
that curved walls are not only more beauti-
ful but often a saving in distance; and
graceful walks and drives in many places
take the place of the old formal straight
paths with their rectangular corners.
To properly place paths so that they may
just answer the purposes for which they ara
lOO
POPULAR GARDENING.
February,
needed, and combine two or more In one is
not always easy, and many a path laid by
some artistic hand would never have got
there without some precious careful study
and knowledge.
I was once called in by the trustees of
Buchtel College, in Akron, Ohio, to give
advice in arranging a more convenient front
walk. In the Fig. at the left c represents the
college edifice facing Jliddleburg street,
which originally wa.s reached by a straight
The center figure represents the place of
a gentleman, the superintendent of a large
factory to which his daily walks led him on
the side of the house in the direction of /.
The ground was filled in front of the house
to bring the lawn to the grade of the corner
at d. At my suggestion the contour of the
fill from (7 to ;; was changed, and a gravel
walk made for a daily short cut to the back
of the house. This fill was about five feet
higher than the ground at /, which was a
blend them, and you cannot fall to produce
a good effect. Yellow is the sunshine of a
bouquet, but you must use it sparingly or it
will produce a glare. But a wise choice of
this color always lends cheerfnlness. In
making saucer bouquets you can use flowers
very choice, or with stems so short you
would lose them in other bouquets. Rose
Geranium leaves alternating with Tulips
make a beautiful edge about any shallow
dish; then lay in Balsams, Pansies, a Tea
Rose or any dainty blossom you have, being
careful to have plenty of Sweet Alyssum or
some fine white flower to blend, and you
will be charmed with the result. A low
glass dish filled with damp moss, edged with
j Geranium leaves, and filled in with Sweet
Alyssum for a ground work, then Pansies
set star-like against the whiteness, makes
the lovliest center table ornament I ever
saw. By sprinkling every morning it will
keep its freshness much longer than ordinary
bouquets. A large shell filled with sand
and Smilax, Kenilworth I\^ or any fine
creeper, falUng over the edge; a few Purple
Verbenas, some Golden Caliopsis and a dash
of white, will throw a gleam of brightness
from a bracket shelf. Select Roses of deli-
cate white or creamy neutral tint, for the
flowers should be the point of color.
PLEASING ARRANGEM
walk, represented by the dotted lines at b.
Opposite a was College street, or the right
hand sidewalk of that street, as you came
from the principal part of the city or down
town. On reaching Middleburg street by
the straight walk the students must turn a
right angle and travel half a square to reach
College street, and they soon got to forsak-
ing the broad flag-stones and striking in a
diagonal direction for College street across
the grass. An unsightly barbed wire fence
was put up to prevent them from running
across the corner; but this was easily torn
down in the night, and finally on the erection
of an ornamental iron fence around the
ground I was called in to offer suggestions.
I had previously located the walk in my
own mind as I passed that way, so it was
but a few minutes work to stick the stakes
for a path which not only led to College
street in a pretty direct fashion, but gave a
more artistic appearance to the lawn.
After the stakes were in place, one of the
gentlemen present remarked, "That's easy;
why didn't we do that in the finst place."
The Fig. at the right shows a comer lot
also in Akron fronting on the street h with
a side entrance on the side street f. The
owner, a foreman in a large manufactory,
when he built the house put down plank
walks leading from either sidewalk as shown
by dotted lines, and also connected the two
doorsteps with a similar walk parallel to the
sides of the house, all angles being right
angles. After some years the street grade
was established, and he tore up the planks,
graded and seeded his grounds.
He obtained the design of walk across the
corner at / as shown in illustration, and the
walks were laid out accordingly, excepting
the little triangular grass plot at the inter-
section of the walks, which he had left
wholly in gravel. Several trees now adorn
his yard planted at regular distances, and
in the gravel triangle a square wooden box
filled with earth nourishes a few Geraniums,
instead of the little grass plot with two
Yuccas and a clump of German Iris that I
should have placed there; and opposite across
the walk, instead of the Siberian Arbor
Vitae, Goldeu Retinospora and Suecica
nana that I should have planted, he has a ;
few straggling Rose bushes that fall victims
each spring to bugs and thrips. |
ENT OF FRONT WALKS.
' rich alluvial flat devoted to vegetables. To
separate the ornamental from the vegetable
garden I planted a Hemlock hedge on the
brow of the terrace, which after 12 years is
perfect and beautiful.
Against my earnest protest the owner,
two years later, planted on the other side of
the lawn a hedge coinciding exactly with
the first, excepting that it was reversed, to
lead to the right instead of to the left. It
divided the narrow but beautiful lawn into
two unmeaning divisions, the only reason
the owner giving was to make the front
lawn symmetrical, which it fails to do in
reality, as the hedges having been planted
some years apart vary much in height.
Blending Colors in Bouquet IVIatcing.
MRS. L. H. GALE, BARTON CO., MO.
Nature should be one's teacher in blending
colors, but she has hersecrets. The moment
we transfer flowers from the garden or their
wild wood home to our drawing room, the
charm is broken. Nature gives us the lol- ,
Culture of Raspberries.
WM. H. TEOMA.NS, TALLAKD CO.. CON.V.
Where twenty -five years ago one garden
could be found in which Strawberries were
cultivated, probably ninety-nine can be
found to-day. The Strawberry has in fact
come to be a common fruit. Not so the
Raspberry, and yet this possesses a richness
of flavor excelling even that of the Straw-
berry, and its culture is no more difficult.
It delights in a fairly moist, rich loam in
which it will make a vigorous growth; but
the making of the most vigorous growth is
not the most desirable point to be secured,
for canes of almost indefinite length may
be secured in rich soil. The aim should be
to produce canes that have such a degree of
maturity and strength that they can pro-
duce and successfully sustain an abundance
of fruit the following season. Last spring
we set some roots of different varieties, that
came from Western New York; the soil was
a rich black loam, and the plants made a
prodigious growth. I was compelled to give
them severe and frequent prunings by head-
ing back, and by that means we feel pretty
sure that with reasonably favorable condi-
tions we shall get some choice fruit. Late
in the season some of the canes showed a
IDEAL CHEAP HOT-BED AND
lowing hints: Don't crowd yonr flowers.
Flowers have their affinities and individual-
ities, and we must respect them. For
example, a spike of brilliant scarlet Gladio-
lus, with a feathery bunch of Asparagus
and a dot of white Feverfews here and there,
will light a shady corner like a torch. But
smother your stately blossoms with Ver-
benas, Phlox, Geraniums and a host of floral
beauties, and you will only weaken' the
effect. Put your scarlets, crimsons, and
purples in separate clumps. Use white to
FORCING HOUSE. See page IS).
I very decided disposition to enter upon th
I work of fruiting, and just as the leaves fell
we noticed one or two clusters of partially
developed berries. With' present prospects
the farmer had better manage his farm in
such a manner as to secure to himself and
family all the pleasures to be derived there-
from in the way of all varieties of small
fruits and vegetables that can be consumed.
It will require but little effort but will afford
untold enjoyment to all who are privileged
to be consumers of the products.
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
101
PETER HENDERSON.
The Great Horticulturist Dead.
When the telegraph on .lanuary 17 con-
veyed the news of the death of Peter Hen-
derson, of Jersey City, the most favorably
and widely known tlorist. gardener and hor-
ticultural author America has yet produced,
it carried deep sorrow to tens of thousands
of hearts, all over the country. He died at
half past ten o'clock on the 17th at his home
on Jersey t^ity Heights from pneumonia,
which began with an attack of the intluenza,
so widely prevailing. Two weeks earlier,
less one day, the symptoms llrst appeared,
btit little attention was
paid to them, although
Mr. Henderson was un-
able to attend to business.
For about a week there
seemed to be steps toward
recovery, and on Friday,
the 10th, he felt well
enough to be out and
around for a short time,
but was compelled to go
to his room and lie down.
^\Tiile lying on the sofa he
did some writing, his last
work being an answer to
a request from a southern
journal concerning the
origin of the American
Beauty Rose, which he
stated was not an Ameri-
can Rose at all. .Soon
after he took to his bed
and never again rose from
it. He died literally " in
the harness," as he had
more than once expressed
a desire to do. His friends
had only considered his
condition serious for a
few days before the end.
Peter Henderson was
born in 1833, at the village
of Pathhead, ten miles
south of Edinburgh, Scot-
land. His father was
land .steward of a gentle-
man in the neighborhood.
His schooling advantages
were only such in the
main as the parish school
afforded. But even here
that aptness to seek in-
formation, which was a
leading trait throughout
his life, led him to win
school prizes beyond all
others of his age.
In his l-5th year the lad
was apprenticed to a
tradesman in Edinburgh,
but finding the employ-
ment uncongenial, he
was allowed fortunately
to follow his own bent; at
IB became an apprentice at Melville Castle,
Midlothian, Scotland. Here with gardening
operations in all depratments carried out on
a large scale, and the collections, especially
of hardy plants, very extensive, the young
apprentice had the widest possible oppor-
tunities for acquiring a thorough horticul-
tural training. Feeling at this stage ham-
pered by his lack of schooling, he and
another youth walked ten miles twice a
week for two years to attend a mathematical
school in Edinburgh. So well did he im-
prove his opportunities as a student of botany
during these years, that before the age of 18
he had twice successfully competed for the
medals awarded by the Botanical .Society of
Edinburgh for the best herbarium of native
and exotic plants, the competition being open
to the whole of Great Britain. It was about
the same date that he first took up his pen,
which he has ever since yielded with such
exceptional force, to write on horticultural
subjects. His first article, naturally enough
as we now should judge, was aimed at the
practive which then prevailed of holding as
secrets many of the horticultural operations
of the day. It was printed in the London
Gardener's Gazette, and is said to have drawn
out a lengthy editorial reply. Such an
achievement at his age clearly showed the
young apprentice to be a person of uncom-
mon ability among his comrades.
But it was not alone as a progressive stud-
ent and thinker, and the foe of narrow
methods in horticulture, that young Hen-
THE LATE PETER HENDERSON.
derson was singular, he aimed as well at the
correction of certain moral abuses of his
class. It was the practice of the young
men of the establishments to squander
some of their evenings at a public house in
the vicinity, and against this practice he set
his face so firmly, and showed by his own
example the better way of improving the
mind, that he nearly abolished it. Tho.se
who have known Mr. Henderson since are
well aware that the high standard of moral-
ity he then outlined has been adhered to un-
swervingly throughout his life. He not
only was an uncompromising and outspoken
champion of temperance, but he equally
deprecated the use of tobaccoiand other stim-
ulants. In 1881 it was the writer's privilege
to visit the scenes of Mr. Henderson's early
manhood in Scotland and meet some of his
former companions. As his friend from
America they took much pleasure in testify-
ing to the writer of his many excellent
qualities in youth, an<l rejoicinggreatly over
the well nu'rited prosperity and great repu-
tation he had achieved as an American.
In 1843 young Henderson, then in his
twentieth year, having completed his ap-
prenticeship, and moved by the accounts of
a promising field for young men in America,
sailed for New York to make tliis his future
home. He had no capital but a thorough
education in gardening, good health and
habits, and in a remarkable degree the spirit
of energy and pluck. He worked fora period
In the nursery of Thorburn & Co., Astoria,
N. Y., and a year or more
with the late Robert
Buist, of Philadelphia.
Mr. Buist, an accom-
plished gardener of the
old school, was frequent-
ly startled by the advan-
ced ideas and " notions "
of his bright young em-
ployee. He remained his
life long friend, and often
with pride told how the
man who had by his in-
dustry became so famous
as a horticulttarist, was as
a boy one of the best work-
men he ever 'had. For
several years preceding
1847 Mr. Henderson was
in the employ of Mr.
Charles Spang, of Pitts-
burgh, Pa., as superinten-
dent of that gentleman's
private grounds.
B.v the year 1847 Mr. Hen-
derson had succeeded in
saving up $.500, and in that
year, in company with his
brother .lames, he started
(tu a small scale the business
of market p:ardening in Jer-
sey City. He worked on an
average 10 hours a day, and
the venture was successful.
The business grew rapidly,
;iud gradually the brothers
added the florists branch to
t lie establishment This
l>artnership continued until
1852. When it was dissolved,
I'oter, though discerning the
lartxiT profits in the vegeta-
hlc brant^h, devoted his main
energies to this. Later, as
the taste for flowers and
ornamental gai'denlng be-
came more general, the
florist business was seen to
possess increasing promise,
and more attention was
given to it. By 18B4 Mr.
Henderson built a range ol:
glass on the site of the
present extensive establish-
ment, and was prepared to
give his entire attention to
the florist business, although
a number of acres of land
were aud have since been devoted to general
garden crops. In 180.5 Mr. Hendersim, in com-
pany with James Fleming, began business as a
seedsman in New York flty. This firm continued
for five years, when it was dissolved. The fol-
lowing year, 1871, the present seed firm of Peter
Hendei-son & Co.. :'■'> and 37 Cortlandt street, New
York, was established, and which from that be-
j ginning has grown to be one of the largest seed
j establishments in the world. In the great business
which in two branches, seeds and plants, had de-
veloped under Mr. Henderson's lead in the past
j 25 years, he had latterly had with him as partners
I his two sons Alfred and Charles Henderson. Of
the plant department it may be said that the
ranges of glass cover upwards of four acres. The
annual output of plants runs up into millions. It
is thought to be the largest and best appointed
greenhouse range in the world. In the two de-
partments the firm gi%e employment to about
150 hands regularly.
That which more than anything else, has made
the name of Mr. Henderson famous and aided in
securing the remarkable success of his various
I02
POPULAR GARDENING.
February,
enterprises, has been his extensive horticultural
writings. On culinary vegetable and flower
growing his pen has given forth more valuable
material than that of any other writer in our
country. Aside from his frequent contributions
over many years to this and other horticultural
journals, he has written five volumes all of
which have met with, an extensive sale some
enormously so. His first work " Gardening for
Profit" appeared in 186«) and of which nearlj-
150,000 copies have been sold. Following close
was " Practical Floriculture " of a similar nature
to the first but devoted to the growing of plants
for sale. These two books, so strong and clear
in guiding inexperienced cultivators along the
course of successful practice, have led thousands
of persons in every state and territor.v in the
union to a comparatively easy and lucrative
business. In 1875- his " Gardening for Pleasure "
was published and more than 25,000 copies have
been sold. His two other works are '* How the
Farm Pays" and " Henderson's Hand-book of
Plants and General Horticulture," the latter a
treatise of great value, and which has recently
been revised and improved.
The popularity of his writings is due to their
lieing eminently practical clear and concise, and
to their advocacy of garden reforms and certain
radical cultural rules upon which their author
based his own success, but which were quite
severely opposed by the more conservative
school. YoT years after issuing his earlier works
many of the leading topics advanced were dis-
cussed with great \igor in the horticultural press
of the day. This gave the brilliant young
author an opportunity to appear in theirjdefence
a thing which he did with great ability and plea-
sure. He lived to see many of bis radical
methods of culture widely adopted. Still Mr.
Henderson was a man who could give up a
cherished hobby most gracefully if time showed
its unsoundness. " We know better than that
now " was often heai-d from his lips in late years
as he referred to same abandoned practice. It is
not too much to say that his thoroughly practical
writings have made an impress on his time tor
improved methods and profits in horticulture,
beyond those of any other person. Thousands
all over the country thank the day that brought
them in contact with Peter Henderson's writings.
It was the characteristic love for improve
ments in methods as well as in things that led
the deceased to so zealously seek out and dissem-
inate new varieties of vegetables and flowers.
Undoubtedly Mr. Henderson's name is associated
with a larger number of new varieties of real
merit than that of any other American horticul-
turist.
As a beUever in the spread of sound informa-
tion on gardening, Mr Henderson was in love
with every effort in this line by whomsoever pur-
sued. Thus he was a most valued friend of the
present Journal and aided not a little in gi\-ing
it its present substantial standing and large cir-
culation. The writer's intimate acquaintance
with the deceased dates from the year 1871 when
as a young man he served a special term of ap-
prenticeship in his establishment in Jersey City.
He was then not long in discovering what thous-
ands of others had before and have since dis-
covered, that Mr, Henderson was the true friend
of;e very deserving young gardener with whom he
came In contact. The reciprocal regard existing
between him and all who were in his employ was
remarkable. Nearly every man in his serrice
was of his own training. He had some men
working for him at the time of his death who
had been in his employ twenty. eight years, and
many who had been with him for twenty years
and more. All without exception entertained
the utmost esteem for their good friend and
employer. His friendliness towards .voung Eu-
ropean gardeners who, following his steps of
forty seven years ago, came to New York was
well known. Hundreds turned to him for assis-
tance and advice which was never withheld.
One such, who now is a verj' successful florist
in Buffalo, said to the writer within a week after
his death " he was the father of us all." Such
indeed is the remembrance cherished for Peter
Henderson by thousands all over this land.
Mr. Henderson was an active and influential
meml)er of the Society of American Florists
having served continuouly on its executive
board for years. He was also a member of the
New York Horticultural Society, the New York
Florist Club, the Seed Dealers Association of the
United States, besides belonging to a number of
merely local societies. He was one of the best
known and most public spirited men of his city.
He never held a public office and did not take an
active part in politics. When his name was men-
tioned last fall in connection with the Guberna-
torial nomination he declared that it was with-
out his consent, and said he would not accept
the office of Governor if he received a unani-
mous election. He was above all else devoted
to his business and to his famUy.
Mr. Henderson leaves a wife, two sons Alfred
and Charles, one daughter, Mrs R. Floyd. He
was married twice. His first wife was a Miss
Gibson, and the second, who survives him, was a
daughter of John Reid, of Jersey City.
Distillation of Plant Oils.
The distillation of Peppermint oil is an
important local indiistrv of Wayne County
in this State; and there it usually pays the
farmer much better than other common
farm crops. In a recent report from the
American Consul at Marseilles we find a
description of the distillation of essential
oils from various other species of plants,
such as Lavender, Thyme, Fennel, etc., as
carried on in southeastern France.
The region of aromatic plants is a moun-
tainous country. Lyon, the center of the
distilling industry, being in the valley of the
river Aigues. The most useful plants are
Lavender, wild Thyme, Rosemary, Rue,
Sage and Fennel, which last grows along
the margins of mountain streams. Of these
by far the most important is the Lavender
(LnvcnduUi tioTO.The harvest enlists a large
share of the peasant population: and in good
seasons the people who gather and sell Lav-
ender to the distillers, at prices ranging
from .5 francs to 8 francs perlOO kilogrammes,
are able to earn thereby as much as 4s. a
day, wages that are considered magnificent
in a country of scant employment and ill-
requitted labor.
The distillation of Lavender on an indus-
trial scale was begun more than a century
ago in the neighborhood of Grasse; but dur-
ing recent years the business has extended
inland and westward until Drome, the most
westerly department of the district, now
produces 66,000 of the 125,000 lbs. of oil ot
Lavender manufactured throughout the
country of France.
In many places Lavender, Rosemary,
Thyme, and other aromatic plants are dis-
tilled by farmers and small operators in the
villages and communes. The harvest of
Lavender begins about the first of July,
and continues until the end of September.
The best results in quantity and quality are
obtained by distillation of the first plants in
the season of blossoming, but as these are
available only during one quarter of the
year, the Lavender is dried like hay, and
furnishes material for distillation during
nine or ten months. The same is true of
Aspic {Lnvnndulfi spica). which is known
as " Garden Lavender." but all are, like the
true Lavender, at their best when in the
season of full flower, which varies according
to the respective species from April until
into summer.
The practical process of distillation varies
but slightly for all these varieties, and the
same apparatus is often used successfully
for each kind of plant as its season of flower-
ing and harvest arrives. Three himdred
pounds of dried Lavender plants, or 220 lbs.
of Aspic, are required to produce one pound
of essential oil. The refuse plants are dried
and used as litter for stables and manure.
In medicine it is employed as an excitant
and tonic in the treatment of paralysis, hy-
pochondria and epilepsy.
All this class of essential oils, including
those of Thyme, Rosemary and Fennel, vary
greatly in grade and consequent value, ac-
cording to season of distillation, the skill
and care with which the plants are .selected,
and the process of manufacture. The dis-
tillation of essential oils from aromatic
plants, and the manufacture of perfumes
from cultivated flowers are profitable indus-
tries peculiar to Southern France; and have
become prectically monopolies for no other
apparent reason than that they were first
successfully undertaken here, and the world
of- consumers is content to believe that
original brands are best.
Choice Fruits Not Often Mentioned.
SASniEL MILLER, MONTGOMERV CO., Ml).
Gkapes. Of late the Gipthe Grape we
hear but little about except in the cata-
logues. To my taste it is very good and I
still grow it, and the only reason I can give
for its not being more popular in market is
because the skin is so tender when ripe that
the berries will burst often even with the
most careful handling and packing. It is
true it eats pretty well before fully colored,
when it is not so liable to burst, and is then
sold as a white grape; btit to have it in
perfection it is nearly as dark as the Catawba.
For a red Grape Woodruff Red has a bright
future. It is not only large and very hand-
some, but of much better quality than was
by some awarded it. A good grower, pro-
ductive and perfectly hardy.
Moore's Diamond is to my taste the best
of the whites, also a hardy, strong grower,
large bunch and berry and very beautiful.
Apples. How seldom do we hear of the
Newtown Spitzenberg Apple, yet for a high-
flavored, tender-fleshed (smooth as cheese)
.Apple there are few Its equal. It is true it
is a little liable to drop premature, but if
put away, the fallen ones will keep a few
months. This with me is a good grower
and regular bearer.
The Red Kentucky Crab Apple planted for
a Jotiathan has fruited with me for three
years, and recently I sent a few to an editor
who thinks it the Red Kentucky. If this is
correct we have no use for Hugh's Virginia
Crab any more, as it is a much larger Apple,
smoother and cleaner, and makes a superb
cider^that will keep all winter without fer-
menting if kept in a cool place. The fact is
one might put them away and make cider
any time from now until April, for it will
keep all winter, and make a superb jelly or
preserve, the dark red skin imparting a fine
colorto the product.
Notes from the Popular Gardening
Grounds at La Salle-on-the-
Niagara.
Tomato Varieties. Among the 50 new sorts
of Tomatoes which we had on our grounds the
past season, there arc quite a number which
would seem to satisfy all reasonable demands of
the grower, both tor market and home use. In
point of fact we now have so many good, we
might say almost perfect. Tomatoes, that we are
sometimes at a loss to decide which to retain on
our list and which to drop out.
The earliest good specimens we had again from
the Dwarf Champion; yet there are always but
few of them, and the rest of the crop ripens
slowl.v and extending over the whole season.
This makes it a good crop for the home grower,
but we do not think it will produce anything like
many of our standard varieties. Potato Ijcaf
again pleased us very much. It is an enormous,
somewhat spreading grower, producing its hand-
some and invariably smooth purple fruit, which
is of good size, solid and fine-flavored all through
the season. The older of Livingston's Tomatoes,
Paragon, Perfection and Favorite, also Cardinal,
developed their usual good points. In Living-
ston's Beauty we have never been able to discover
the merits claimed for it.
In real meritorious novelties among Tomatoes
the season of 1889 has t>cen far more prolific than
any we can remember. It is remarkable, too,
that the choicest of these are somewhat similar
in general characteristics, both fruit and gi-owth.
Most people could have gone through our patches
of Lorillard, Matchless (Burpee's', Ignotum and
Early Ohio, without suspecting that they were
different varieties. These form denser, com-
pacter bushes, and grow rather more upright
than any of Livingston's or any of the older
sorts, while the beautiful, smooth, scarlet fruit
1 890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
103
ripens eiuiy. evenly, and iu great abundance
\iniler the luxuriant foliage.
All these, even the Lorillard (althmiKli this is
disputeil in some iiuartcrsi. will make most ex-
cellent market sorts, Ignotnm and Matchless
beiniror especial large size, and thus far unsur-
passed for cannery purposes. Seed of the
Early Ohio was sent us by a friend in Ohio, but
we know nothing of its origin. It differs but
slightly from Matchless. The Stone, a variety
given us by Mr. A. M Nichol. of Granville, Ohio,
who we believe is introducing it this spring, also
belongs to this class. Its fruit is of good color,
large, smooth and reasonably solid.
Messrs. Peter Henderson & Co.. New York, are
introducing a new sort under the name of Early
Kuby. We have grown this for four or five years,
and have seen acres of it on the grounds of
the gardener who discovered the first plant.
We cannot speak too highly of it; but
we suspect that this and Mr. Burpee's
Matchless will prove to be very similar,
if not altogether identical.
Our opinion of the Mikado or Turner's
Hybrid has never been excessively high;
the fruit, while large and solid, is not
smooth enough to satisfy our taste, that
has been rendered fastidious by such
perfect Tomatoes as the Livingston
varieties and other newer sorts. Neither
could we see any points of merit in the
yellow sport of the Mikado introduced
last season under the name of Shaw.
The French Tree and the Station are
mere aggregations, and so entirely with-
out practical value that we do not pro-
pose to bother with them again.
Horsford's Prelude, although prolific
and reasonably early, was left unhar-
vested. We do not care for Tomatoes
of that size when we have plenty ot the
fine sorts before mentioned. Volunteer
is deserving another trial, the fruit is
early and fair, and the plant productive.
An altogether distinct, unique and
beautiful thing is the Peach Tomato of
which we present an engraving. When
ripe it drops off with stem left on, similar
to a tree fruit. On account of its shape_
bloom and the beautiful rosy tint on
greenish yellow ground, it can easily be
mistaken for a small Peach. It may sell
in market on account of its remarkable
attractiveness; but being rather soft, although of
high quality, it cannot be classed among market
sorts. The home grower wUl be delighted with it.
King of the Earlies, Atlantic Prize, Earliest
Advance, and one or two more of the same type,
are early indeed, but this is pretty near all that
can be said in their favor. They are weak, sprawl-
ing growers, with thin foliage, and their fruit is
small and far from solid. Yet near large mar-
kets, with a demand for early fruit at good prices,
some ot these early sorts, especially the first
named, may be grown with considerable profit,
if grown under high culture and making use ot
all our resources m forwarding the crop. Rich
soil not only enlarges both foliage and fruit, but
also makes the foliage smoother, better colored
and even more solid.
Sandwich Island Salsify. This we have
grown for a number of years, and we found it so
much better especially ot more ligorous growth
and larger root than the old French Salsify, that
we at last discarded the latter altogether, and
shall stick to Sandwich. The writer who reports
In one of our exchanges that the two varieties do
not materially differ, probably did not have the
true Sandwich. This variety was introduced
under the decidedly overloaded name " Mammoth
Sandwich Island" Salsify. It is truly a good
variety, a decided step in advance, and this
Salsitj" will undoubtedly remain in cultivation
for a long time; but what can the " Committee
on Vegetable Nomenclature" do with the name?
The new set ot rules, if strictly adhered to, would
prune it down to Spanish Salsify,
are blighting on the thick limbs and main stem,
while the grafts of Idaho set on them last spring
are still fresh. Now this is a bad business, and
may cause me quite a loss; as the Idaho wood
was very valuable.
My faith in this stock above ground is too poor
to ever touch it again. Perhaps the stock will
do for other Pears if grafted on it at the ground,
but even this I will not trust. It is often said
that LeConte will not blight when grown from
cuttings. One of my neighbors has some twenty
LeContes on its own root, three years old. and
that is all the age they will ever reach, for they
are about all dead. No one regrets this more
than 1 do, for it is a beautiful tree, the fruit of
fair quality and very hadsome; but the fruit
with me softened at the core before ripe on the
outside. This I thought bad enough.yet thought
as it is a good grower, there might be value in
THE PEACH TOMATO.
COMMENTS BY READERS.
A department to wMch all are invited to send notes 0/
experience and observation concerning topics that re-
cently have been treated on in this journal. Many
f weft contributions monthly are welcome.
The LeConte and Keiffer Pears. I see the
LeConte mentioned by you for stock and other-
wise. I say, beware ot the LeConte. That this
Pear blights badly has already been given from
my pen; yet I also mentioned that a number of
trees of four years old, were free from blight on
the hill. Recently, however, I notice that they
the tree as a stock. Even this seems denied us
also. Notwithstanding the many slurs and con
demnations heaped upon the Keiffer as not fit t(
eat by many, I will stake my reputation on it
that for this region it will be more largely
planted than any other sort for the next ten
yeai-8, unless the Idaho flUs the bUl I expect it to,
and the trees become cheap. Garler will also
be given trial Iwhen it becomes known, and the
trees plenty. It is larger than Keiffer, a month
earlier, a regular beauty, and in quality better.
This Keiffer and Garler are the foundation of a
new class of Pear that may be of great value in
the future. Some Keiffer seedlings raised the
past season are the strongest and cleanest I ever
grew.-S. Miller.
Life History OF Ladv Birds. In December
number, New Jersyan, in speaking of the lady-
birds, seems to think that those left on the tree
would die when winter came. These useful little
insects hibernate, and when spring comes awaken
again to life, and lay eggs that hatch about the
time the aphides-their usual food supply— ap-
pear. Sometimes the lady-birds live through
the winter as pupae, several such having come
under my observation. Dr. Packard suggests
their use in greenhouses to destroy plant lice. I
have successfully reared them during summer,
but have yet to learn whether a 'winter laying"
breed can be originated, a problem the chicken
! raisers have not yet proved to their satislaction
in their line of business. It is in the larval state
that the lady-birds are of the most use to us,
and, naturally, it is the beetle we have in winter.
Could the right conditions be found for hiber-
nating the beetles, they might be let loose in the
spring in the Potato patch to the destruction of
the Potato beetles, as they of ten collect in count-
less swarms just before retiring to winter quar-
ters, and could be collected in vast numbers.—
Walter A. Lynn.
Striped Cucumber Beetle. Ten years' mar-
ket gardening have made me acquainted with
! the Cucumber beetle, and of all the enemies the
gardener has this is decidedly the worst. The
first three years of my gardening I made war on
I this little pest, and during that time I discovered
that the Marblehead and Hubbard Squashes were
always destroyed before my Melons. Cucum-
bei-s, etc., were touched by bugs. The fourth
year I concluded to make peace with the bugs,
and I planted Squash seed by the handful all
through my vine patches, and I planted seed
every third day, so there were fresh plants com-
ing up all the time, and in this way I kept the
bugs well fed until my Melons and Cucumbers
grew out of the way. I now have had peace with
the Cucumber beetle tor seven years, fed them
on their choice feed, and in that time have never
failed to save my Cantelope, Watermelons and
Cucumbers. Some may think it expensive to
buy Squash seed enough to save one acre of
vines, but you will find it the cheapest and safest
plan. It you have bugs by the million as 1 have,
and two dollars invested in Squash seed will save
two acres of vines, it is cheaper than fighting
with drugs and then fail — Jactooii.
Crandall Currant. We have
grown and used this for many years,
and have a high opinion of its desert
qualities, and this opinion is well sup-
ported by the testimony of people well
qalifled to judge. Mrs. Mary A. Wood-
bridge, Secretary National W. C. T. U.,
says: "We regard the Crandall highly-
The fruit is of fine sizer and flavor, of
superior merit for pies, sauce, and
especially for jelly, in which the rich
brilliant color ot the juice is particu-
larly to be admired." Our friend F C.
Miller, of Tuscarawas County, Ohio, the
noted horticulturist, speaks of it as
follows: 'For culinary purposes it is
most excellent; have eaten it stewed
and in pie. Its flavor is exquisite. Most
productive of any small fruit known
to me. Must be seen to be believed."—
TT'arton Walburn, Ohio.
The Sweet and Sour apple. In
corroboration of what Mr. Bassett says
in January number, we can add our
testimony. About 1820 one Chester
Bartholomew brought a lot ot Apple
grafts from Connecticut and grafted an
orchard In this township. One o( these
trees bore an Apple half red and half
green with a ridge around it as if it had
been molded. One halt of the Apple
was sweet and one halt sour. This will
be attested by all of our old citizens. The
same Apple was in Connecticut years ago, as late
as 1830. On the farm then belonging to James
Treat, about eight miles from Norwich. Conn.,
there was a tree that bore Apples half sweet and
half sour; just such an Apple as I have described
as growing on the farm of Mr. Bartholomew at
this place.— Jir. M. Murphy, Brown Co., O.
Yellow Raspberries. The remarks in Jan-
uary number in regard to Golden Queen Rasp-
berry I suppose are meant for all yellow Rasp-
berries so far as the fruit is concerned. I have
this to say for the Caroline: however it may do
elsewhere, it is our most paying Raspberry. It
is soft and sometimes will mold by standing over
night, but our market is only a mile away and
berries are sold and used the day picked. The
fruit is sold from the wagon and we tell our cus-
tomers they must use them that day. For eat-
ing fresh, we prefer them to any other Raspberry,
because of the agreeable acid taste. When
canned alone the color and flavor is impaired.
By accident, my mother learned how to over-
come this, by mixing a tew Red Raspberries with
them. The reds not only give a better color to
the fruit but impart a very agreeable flavor.
The Caroline is put down by the New Y^ork Ex-
periment Station as the most productive Rasp-
berry in cultivation, and this has been our ex-
perience. With us they are ever-bearing. Last
year we had fruit for the table from July to
October, frost killing the last berries. It bears a
big crop the first year provided any of the last
years growth is left on; indeed it is liable to bear
too much for its future good. With us the bush
grows like a black cap, as long as good cultiva-
tion is given, making new plants from the tips.
When cultivation is neglected orentirely stopped,
it grows more like a red variety, but never suck-
ers immediately. The tips do not root readily
unless put down just at the right time, and the
young plants are tender and breakable, For
this reason sucker plants will give better satis-
faction. The Caroline is certainly the best Rasp-
berry we know for house use. Like the Crescent
Strawberry it will bear berries under great neg-
lect, but like the Crescent, it repays good cul-
ture.—L. J. Farmer.
I04
POPULAR GARDENING.
February,
Notes on Tested Varieties of Grapes.
S. S. CRISSET, CHAI'TAUQCA CO., N. Y.
What varieties of Grapes besides the Con-
cord can be safely planted as profitable
market Grapes? As a partial answer to this
question, now asked by many growers, we
offer the following as good for this locality,
namely, the south shore of Lake Erie in New
York, Pennsylvania and Ohio:
1st. PocKLiNGTON. Every year adds to
the success of this well-tried Grape. It is
handsome, especially when fully matured;
it is entirely hardy, a fairly vigorous grower,
not quite equal to Concord, but better than
Moore's Early, Martha or Hartford. As to
its market qualities, it is firm, handles well,
does not become soft soon alter ripening (a
bad thing in many good Grapes), and is
popular in the leading markets. Last fall
Pocklingtons sold for five cents when Con-
cords were bringing three cents per pound.
2d. Moore's Early. As to quality this
is the hest early black Grape; and it is early.
Side by side of the Concord, the Moore's
Early vines can be picked clean, and the
fruit stripped before a single cluster is ready
on the Concord. It is decidedly earlier than
the Worden, and while perhaps not any
earlier than the Champion, the detestable
quality of the latter shuts it out of the list
altogether. The one great drawback to
Moore's Early is that it is a very slow grower.
It should be on rich soil, and given extra
care the first few years. We advise every
vineyardist to plant this noble Grape.
3d. Worden. This Grape is of better
quality than the Concord, but has some
grave faults. It seems to be more tender
and ditficult to handle than is the Concord.
As to vigor it is nearly up to the Concord,
and will sometimes even surpass that variety
m productiveness. Here the Worden does
not color but a few days (not over a week)
before the Concord, but it is a good table
Grape when first colored, which the Concord
never is, owing to its acidity.
4th. Brighton. When first ripened the
Brighton is among our best strictly hardy
Grapes. It more nearly resembles the
Catawba than does any other of the Eastern
Grapes. Its fault is that it loses flavor by
remaining on the vines long after ripening,
also that it must be planted with other
sorts for the blossoms to fertilize. Always
plant Bright ons between rows of other sorts.
Enjoyments of the Home Fruit
Garden.
J. \V. Ul'PPELL, MARION CO., MO.
We moved to our present house on the 14th
of April, 188.5. A short time after I made my
first planting of trees, shrubs and vine.s. In
1886 we had all the Strawberries we could
use, a good lot of Raspberries, some Black-
berries, Gooseberries and Currants, also a
few Grapes. In 1887 we had plenty and to
spare of all the above except Grapes Same
in 1888. In 1889 we had all the above in great
plenty, and some Pears, Cherries, Plums
and a few Peaches. My wife canned about
forty quarts of Peaches, also Strawberries,
Raspberries, Blackberries and Gooseberries.
I think she has at this writing nearly 200
quarts, besides an endless amount of jellies.
In 1890, if nothing happens, I think we
will have some Apples, and all the Pears,
Peaches, Plums, Grapes, Cherries, and small
fruits that we can use, and some to give to
our friends. I have planted some each
spring and fall since 1885, and will have to
stop now for wantof room, unless I do away
with raising vegetables. I hardly think I
will do that. I am in the bank during
business hours; before and after I am in the
garden. 1 keep a man to do the work, but I
can always find something to do. We keep
it very clean and well cultivated. My wife
and little girls are in the garden a great
deal. I admit they do not work much, but
they enjoy walking around in the pure air
and watching the fruit ripen, or even
testing it frequently, which contributes to
their health. Our whole doctor bill this
year was only three dollars. I will tell you
what I have planted for my family of five
and two servants: II Standard Apple trees;
10 Peaches, 4 Dwarf Peaches, 10 Standard
Pear trees, 30 Dwarf Pear trees, 20 Dwarf
Apples, 31 Plums, 5 Cherries, 10 Dwarf Cher-
ries, 4 Quinces, 2 Nectarines, .500 Strawberry
plants, 176 Raspberry plants, 74 Blackberry
plants, 12 Currant plants, 5 Gooseberry
plants, 39 Grape vines, 1 small and 1 large
Asparagus bed, 1 row of Rhubarb and 6
.Juneberry plants. Original friiit garden is
.50 by 100. I have added to it on the west 50
by 70, on the south 15 by 60. My friend
Samuel Miller was here in Oct. He was
much pleased with the arrangement, and
complimented me on my success. I did not
know anything at the start, but learned from
the horticultural papers and experience.
Berry Notes From Michigan.
J. A. WOOD, CLINTON CO., MICB.
The past season was a very unfavorable
one for the Berry grower. The severe frost
at the blooming season ruined nearly all
blossoms that were open on mulched
ground. Plants not mulched escaped any
material damage. Raspberries, especially
the earlier varieties, were also badly dam-
aged. Gregg and the later kinds escaped
uninjured as the buds were not sufficiently
developed at the tinie.
Plants set last spring made an excellent
growth in the earlier part of the season, but
.July or early August brought us a most
severe and protracted drouth. This, of
course tended to dwarf the growth of plants
but by faithful work v.ith cultivators and
hoes we have succeeded in getting a reason-
ably fair growth of plants.
Strawberry Varieties. Of Strawberries,
Crescent takes the lead ,outyielding all others
by half, including the Wilson which we will
concede second place. On heavier soils than
ours, which are sandy, the Wilson may
prove superior,but Crescent is with us most
reliable as a market berry. Manchester
does well with us as a late market sort.
Sharpless produces a fair crop of large, irreg-
ular, unevenly ripened berries of good qual-
ity. We consider Jessie very similar to
Sharpless with the advantage of being more
productive and more regular in form. On
heavy soil under good culture it may prove
exceedingly profitable. Atlantic does well
bearing fair crops of dark-colored, nice-
looking fruit. Mrs. Garfield not productive
and rather soft. Jersey Queen we rooted
out entirely and consider it entirely worth-
less where other kinds here named can be
obtained. Monarch of the West is one of
our best perfect-flowering sorts, a rank,
thrifty-growing plant, with large beautiful
berries. Old Iron-Clad is unproductive.
Piper's Seedling rusts badly and is a poor
grower and shy bearer of poor berries.
Raspberry Varieties. Tyler or Souhe-
gan is our preference for early, being produc-
tive and of iron-clad hardiness. Ohio and
Mammoth Cluster are best medium sorts.
While Gregg takes the lead in size and pro-
ductiveness, it is less hardy than those
named, and sometimes kills back to a con-
siderable degree. If it were not for this
one failing we should not hesitate to place it
first on our list. Of the Reds, Marlborough
and Cuthbert take the lead; Turner being
smaller but more hardy and fully as pro-
ductive as either of the above. Hansell and
Rancocas are small and unproductive, val-
ued only for earliness of ripening. Golden
Queen promises well for a yellow sort. It is
a strong grower, like Cuthbert, very pro-
lific and the fruit quite attractive when
fresh. Looks well on the table.
Celery and other Notes from
Glass City Gardens.
THEODORE SEFF, BELMONT CO., OHIO.
Some large orchards are now being planted
of Plums, Prunes and Apricots of the hardier
varieties. We can grow Plums and Peaches
to perfection except for three things, black
knot, borers and curculio. but we are fast
getting to be master of them all. Grapes
we can grow'without any trouble, also
Strawberries and Raspberries. BarnesvlUe,
the renowned Strawberry town, is situated
almost in the center of Belmont Co., and we
live on the eastern line of the county on the
west banks of the Ohio river, where the
bottoms are very fertile, the soil is mostly
black, loamy and very little gravel. Hence
we can growflnevegetableswithout danger
of being burnt up by hot sun during the
summer months. We are fast coming to
front in growing fine Celery for the markets,
even surpassing the famous Kalamazoo
Celery, which has such a great reputation.
Our method of Celery growingis as follows:
As soon as we take the crops off in the fall,
we commence to prepare for the next season's
crop by hauling out well-composted barn-
yard manure and spreading it on the ground.
We do not manure so heavily as our soil is
naturally rich and fertile;then the latter part
of November we plow this manure under.
We plow at least 15 inches deep, then let it
remain until spring. Then we plow again,
thus thoroughly mixing the manure with the
soil. Where we plant early Celery we do
not plant any other crop, but on soil intended
for late Celery, we grow Radishes, Lettuce,
Peas, etc., and here another dressing of fine
manure is plowed in after the crops are
taken off. For the late crop we plow
out deep furrows, scatter pure bone meal at
the rate of one ton to the acre, and wood
ashes at the same rate, then we draw in
about three inches of soil, and are ready to
set the plants, which we do from the first to
the 1.5th of July. We keep it clean and well
worked until about the 12th of September,
when we put on a dressing of nitrate of soda
close to the rows, and then at once com-
mence handling.
We have tried all the diflferent methods of
blanching, and for early summer would
prefer plank about one foot wide, but for
tall we prefer dirt after the first working.
When we get the Celery started nicely we
use a one-horse reversible plow which
throws the dirt up against the Celery. Then
we pass along the rows with the hand hoe
and fix up where needed. It can be banked
very fast this way.
Another good plan is to use four-inch
drain tile one foot long. This is a little
more expensive in the start, the tile costing
us here -JIO.OO per 1,000, but they are almost
indestructible, lasting for a generation if
carefully handled. In putting the tile over
the Celery we use a piece of .stiff paste board
paper about three inches longer than the
tile, have it rolled in a tube shape, pull it
apart, let it close around the bunch of Celery,
drop the tile over it, draw some dirt around
the tile, and firm it to keep the tile from
upsetting, pull out the paper tube, and so
on. A good active man will tile from six to
eight thousand per day. Another advantage
for tile is you never have to wash your
Celery, as it comes out bright and brittle.
But if you rather wish to grow the tall,
hollow, tough kind, found in the hotels, get
some of the tall-growing varieties, aud plant
them about 13 inches apart, and let them
grow about a foot high before you commence
to bank, and use no fertilizer nor nitrate of
soda, and we will insure you just such
Celery. The closer you keep Celery from
the light and air the better. Now as to
varieties there has been a vast improvement
in Celery the last ten years past. Now we
have the dwarfs and half-dwarfs, but of aU
the late introductions give me the Golden
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
105
Self-blanching for profit. It is such a fine
grower of an even size, and such an ex-
quisitely fine nutty fiavor. It is also the
best keeper we have for winter use. The
Golden Heart is luy next choice. Hender-
son's White Plume is the lazy man's Celery,
easy to blanch but of poor quality, and so
easily damaged in handling, and a poor
keeper, and for early use has a bad habit of
going to seed so soon. Some of the pink
varieties are fine growers and good keepers,
but somehow we can't teach the people to
eat it, yet some that you can get to try it
will have no other. I believe that the time
is coming when pink Celery will be very
popular in market.
Xow a word in regard to nitrate of soda
in making vegetables tender and brittle. I
have been using it for a number of years on
Radishes, Turnips, Lettuce and other quick-
growing crops, and I find it makes a won-
derful improvement on all such crops. As
I raise a great many early Radishes, and all
my customers claim that they are much
more tender and brittle, and never pithy like
they get from other gardeners about here.
There are no others that use it about here,
they all think it is tooe.xpensive, but I think
that's just where they make their mistake.
It's the quickest acting fertilizer made, and
if you happen to get too much on there are
no bad results. It don't burn your crop up,
nor injures your soil in any way. If you
have a little bed of Strawberries, suppose
that you try some about the time they are
in bloom, or a little before, and don't for-
get to tell U.S the result.
What I know about Beans.
E. P. POWELL. ONEIDA CO., S. Y.
[Concluded from page 80.]
So far very few of the sorts have been
named. One, however, goes as the Golden
Meal, a meJium-sized pod very prolific,
golden white, half runner, and one that
combines in itself all good qualities: that
is, it is superior as a Bean, which is white,
large, plump, oily; superb for string, as the
pod is rich golden, fat, very prolific, giving
Beans in all stages until frozen. It is as
early to mature as it is late to bear on. I
have selected five or six of this class of vari-
eties, but the " Golden Ideal " is ahead.
Mast Sorts on Haxd. About fifty sorts
are held permanently or for trial, or because
they represent broken-up heredity and are
capable of developing in all sorts of ways.
Only when the color is dark or the pod
defective do I like to throw away a new
freak, because it is not an end, only a begin-
ning. It stands for all sorts of possible new
things. The chief trouble is to aflford room
for so many sorts to develop. I consider
that those now well proved and worth
special propagation do not exceed twenty.
My own preference for table is so strongly
for rich fat Golden String Beans that I am
giving these sorts special attention. A pod
as large as a man's finger and solid, without
string, and richly sweet is for me the best of
vegetables, if cooked delicately in milk and
cream. These sorts I am now able to have
in good supply until frost. It is probably as
well to rely on bush Beans for early use and
market, and yet there is great range of sea-
son in my pole Beans. A few sorts will
probably not be of great value as far north
as here, but will be invaluable in the more
Southern States. Friends have sent me
Beans from China and South America, but
none have proved valuable as crosses.
This year, for the first time, I took some
pains to let my evolution or survival of the
fittest be known to experts. I invited Hon.
Daniel Batchelor, whose connection with
State Agricultural matters brings him into
well-known prominence, to visit my fields.
He expressed not only delight, but amaze-
ment, and urged me to make them known
to seedsmen and the public. I thereupon
sent a basket to the Rural New Yorker, to
Popular Gardf.nixg, and to several of the
leiuling horticulturists. All have responded
in delighted terms. The characteristics
mentioned at once by Mr. Batchelor were
" size and qtiantity." '• It is," he said, "not
only the enormous size of the pods, but the
enormous quantity of Beans. Why sir, the
sight is worth going a hundred miles to see.
It is the greatest thing in horticulture I have
seen in many a year "
The Results. The best established stock
will soon be placed in the hand of one of our
best firms, and offered to the public. No
lies will be told, nor any puffing of valueless
sorts because of their novelty. I have ruth-
lessly thrown away several hundred sorts
which had novel features, but were not truly
of improved value. I desire by what are
sent out to give rust-proof sorts, that will
be equally^ good for home culture and for
market gardeners. I should like, by this
account, to stimulate others to efforts at
cross breeding and selection. There are the
germs of very fine things in every man's
hands, but they are seldom developed. I
remember that one of our ablest horticul-
turists used to say the saddest thing to
him was that, notwithstanding the many
improvements in fruit, the most of nature's
propositions in that direction, were stupidly
neglected. It was an accident that saved
for us the Seckel Pear. Each one of us
should have constantly on hand some sort
of experiment, an effort at improvement.
The mere pleasure of the attempt is'sufficient
recompense, but there is almost a certainty
of practical advance. There is not a vege-
table or fruit that cannot be improved. We
have several fruits that are now worthless;
that one hundred years from now will be
developed into the richest of human possess-
sions. The Pawpaw.Persimmon, Quince and
others are yet in their incipient barbarous
stages. Who will give us the fruits of these
sorts that may be? Think of the Peas that
were our best fifty years ago. The Dahlias,
in our flower lawns, show what may come
in less than a century from two very plain
varieties. The Potato has had its day of
improvement, and the Beet is as good
as we need. Peas have been marvelously
advanced, now give a hand to the Bean.
I might add, had I room, some very start-
ling lessons in heredity, evolution, and
biological science in general, which I have
learned of this Bean culture, but must not
do more than to say that it confirms the great
lesson that there are two great laws operat-
ing in nature, one of heredity to produce
like, one of cross breeding or change of
environment to produce change of form and
character. Our work is to manage these
two laws or tendencies: to break up a fixed
habit when it is not a good one, and to
establish a good habit when possible.
I am confident that whatever else I do not
know in horticulture — alas, a great deal — I
do know of Beans.
Early Tomatoes for Family Use.
ROBERT L. DEAN, GREEN CO., OHIO.
Nearly every family can have a few extra
early plants for Tomatoes before the general
crop is ripe. Select a dozen or so of small
flower pots, fill them with rich earth mixed
with a small quantity of sand. Make a box
that will hold these pots snugly, and project
slightly above them. Fill the crevices be-
tween the pots with sand and keep this
moist. Plant a few seeds in each pot and
place the box in a warm window. When
there are bright warm days set the box with
a pane of glass over it in a sunny position.
It will be necessary to watch that it does
not become too warm under the glass, and
the heat can be regulated by raising one end
of the glass. The plants wUl make substan-
tial growth, and should be thinned to one
in each pot. This method will be satisfactory •
when but few plants are needed. As the
plants become of considerable size, larger
pots may be necessary. When the ground
becomes warm the hills should be prepared
with rich earth into which the contents of
the pots are placed. The seed should be
sown in February.
Ohio State Horticultural Society.
(Cvmlensed report of ttcrnty-third Annual meeting held
at Columbus, December 11 to 13th, 1&S9. (Concluded
from page y7.)
Strawberry Discussions, The majority
favored picking but two crops. Clean out
the bed thoroughly as soon as through pick-
ing the first crop. Strawberries although
not exhaustive to the soil require a great
amount of available tertility to meet the
great demand during the very short time
occupied in growing the fruit. Bubach,
Warfield and Haverland seemed to be the
favorites among the comparatively new
varieties, while Prad, Miami, Viola, Cloud
and Eureka were recommended for trial.
James Edgerton of Barnesville had found
Crescent his most profitable variety. Bu-
bach was superseding the Sharpless in his
vicinity which had long been considered the
home of the Sharpless.
Currants. W. N. Farnsworth preferred
the Victoria. He says, plant SxS on rich
moist, but not wetland, cultivate thorough-
ly, prune carefully and harvest abundantly.
1(53 bushes yielded 2.5J.2 bushels, some of the
bushes produced twelve to fourteen quarts
each. Apply helebore by dusting on when
the worms are few and concentrated. If
plenty and scattered, he sprays with heli-
bore and water. Currants were very low
in some markets the past season.
Aprico;s and Pears, The Russian Apricot
was thought to be no improvement on the
common European, inasmuch as both bloom
so early in spring that the blossoms were
liable to be killed by frost.
Mr. Ohmer had found Pear culture profit-
able. Would not plant many varieties, but
recommended Bartlett, Kieffer, and Law-
rence as standards, and Duchess D'Angou-
leme as dwarf. It was as important to ripen
and market properly as to grow success-
fully. The Fitzwater Pear was thought to
be nearly or quite the same as Lawrence.
Apples. The discussion on Apple orch-
ards seemed to indicate that cultivation in
some hoed crop was desirable for two or
three years, after which thin soils might be
seeded and pastured with sheep or weeded
and mulched, while deeper, richer soils
could either be managed this may or worked
in the regular rotation of field crops mulch-
ing always that the trees make a satisfactory
growth. Stark and Grimes' Golden were
proving satisfactory.
Other Tree Fruits. Early Richmond, May
Duke, Large Montmorency and Dyehouse,
were recommended for sour Cherries, and
Gov. Wood, Black Tartarian, etc., among
sweet ones.
European Plums were preferable to
native sorts. Peaches were proving very
profitable on Calamby Island, and the
general impression prevailed that prospects
were better than heretofore for the general
culture of them.
The Champion Quince was pronounced
too late for Ohio.
R. A. Kent says the Worden and Concord
are the leading varieties of Grapes in the
Cleveland Grape regions. Niagara was
also doing well.
L. B. Pierce presented an illustrated
article showing the desirability of Ever-
green screens and windbreaks in adding to
the appearance and comfort of the home.
Adjourned to meet ;at the Experiment
Station at Columbus, June 9th, 1890.
io6
POPULAR GARDENING.
February.
Some New Vegetables.
ht:^ert m. ^^•ELXS.
Cabbage. Extra Early Express was
claimed to be the earliest sort yet produced.
The seed was sowed at the same time as my
main crop of Jersey Wakefield, and was
subjected to precisely the same conditions
during the entire period of growth. It did
not prove to be in the slightest degree earlier,
and the heads were soft, no matter how long
they were allowed to remain.
All Seasons' Cabbage was compared with
Henderson's Early Summer which it re-
SASH CULTURE FOR EXOTIC GRAPES. See " Barticulture in New Jersey."
sembles somewhat. The heads average de-
cidedly larger than Henderson's, mature a
week or ten days later, and are about the
same as to solidity. An excellent variety to
follow Henderson's and precede the com-
mon Flat Dutch.
Celery. Golden Yellow Large Solid was
planted for comparison with the Golden
Heart. The few well developed specimens
I managed to get were indeed handsome
and of good quality, but the general result
was unsatisfactory. The plants were not
very ^'igorous, and averaged from one-half
to two-thirds the size of the Golden Heart.
A severe frost about the Hth of October
damaged my Celery somewhat, and this new
variety suffered a good deal more than the
old. About the only point in its favor seems
to be that it requires very little blanching.
I would like to know whether there is
any better way of blanching Celery than
the old one of earthing up. The objection
to this is it always makes the Celery rusty
to a certain extent.
Horticulture In New Jersey.
(Continued from parjc 90.)
Insect Talk. Prof. Jno. B. Smith, ento-
mologist of the New .Jersey Experiment
Station, reads a paper on " Insects vermis
Horticulture." Many of the most destruc-
tive insects can be controlled with a reason-
able outlay of labor and money. Among
them is the Codling moth. Spraying the
trees with arsenical poisons will insure
Apples any year, when the season is favor-
able; but this spraying should be done at
the proper time, and repeated as often as
needed. In a rainy season this may be quite
a number of times. When the egg hatches,
the worm should find a thin coat of poison
on the Apple. This time is right after
blooming, and continues for a few weeks.
Make the solution very weak (one ounce to
30 gallons of water), and put it on very thin,
first immediately after blooming, and re-
peating once or twice afterward. In spray-
ing Peach trees for the curculio, the
strength of one pound to '250 or 300 gallons
water will probably be effective. The Xixon
and Cyclone nozzles are doing good work.
The Apple fly has been noticed near New
Brunswick, N. J., this season. The larvae
cannot be reached with poisons, as the egg
is deposited inside the fruit. The worm
tunnels all through the Apple, and spoils it
for use. Possibly the fly may be trapped
with sweets of which it is said to be fond.
The curculio's weak point is that it comes
out hungry m early spring, and begins to
eat as soon as it can find anything to eat.
Begin spraying as soon as the leaves are out.
and repeat e.xcept during the time of bloom.
Apple trees where curculio attacks are
feared, should be sprayed.
For the Asparagus beetle, which has be-
come very destructive in New Jersey, sev-
eral remedies are
mentioned. Lon-
don Purple would
kill bugs and
larvaB, but it is
almost impossible
to put it on so it
will adhere. The
grubs can be
killed by either
Pyrethrum or To-
bacco powder.
The eggs and old
bugs survive this
treatment.
The larva of the
Rosebug looks
-^very much like a
small white grub
of the May beetle,
and probably it
also lives on roots in grass land. It may
possibly be fought in this state.
During the discussions following this
paper, it was stated that the saw fly larvae
can be killed with Hellebore or Tobacco
powder; or it may be picked off, which is
not so very different as these insects always
feed in companies. Mr. Vandeman, United
States pomologist, states that some years
ago the Rosebug was exceeedingly trouble-
some in Kansas, but after a three or four
years' attack disappeared all at once. It is
not impossible that they may also leave New
Jersey in the same mysterious way that
they came. Mr. Roberts calls attention to
the danger of London Purple applications
to the foliage. Has had better success with
Paris Green, but thinks there is a great deal
of difference in different samples. Some
Paris Green is quite coar.^e, and should not
be used. A finely ground article alone will
give good results. It was also said that
operations in the fight against fungi and in-
sects can be greatly simplified by making
applications of remedies and preventives at
the same time. We might just as well spray
on a mixture of the various ingredients, at
a saving of labor and material, as to apply
each remedy separately.
The Commi.ssios Merchant. Mr. Wm.
H. Goldsmith reads a paper on the question.
Can the fjirmers of New Jersey adopt any
system of disposing of their products to
better advantage than through commission
merchants? This paper and the lively dis-
cussions which followed it, brought out the
fact that there are grave abuses in common
practice with commission dealers, and that
there is urgent need of action for the pur-
pose of having the evils corrected. The
producer often does not get one quarter the
price that consumers have to pay for the
article. Strawberry growers often get five
cents, after waiting about a year, for the
same fruit which the dealer may have sold
within a day or so for ten cents. The re-
turns are not made promptly enough. Some
of the men are downright dishonest. One
of the bad practices of dealers is selling
different producers goods in lump lots;
another the pilfering allowed in the stores,
in consequence of which the value of many
fruit packages is reduced to one-half.
Sec'y. E. Williams who on several occa-
sions has discovered that the commission
merchant had reported sales at a lower
figure than actually realized, says he is not
as favorably disposed towards dealers as he
was. The best way to dispose of our fruits
at a good price, was to make the commission
merchant honest.
Mr. Wm. R. Ward advises to do without
the services of the commission merchant
wherever it is possible to sell directly to the
consumer.
A committee, with Mr. Wm. R. Ward,
chairman, appointed to consider this ques-
tion, and make suggestions, later on offered
a resolution, which was adopted, expressive
of the following sentiments:
1. We denounce the growing practice of
furnishing empty packages by commission
dealers to shippers. Each grower ought to
be responsible for his own fruit.
2. We commend to dealers the practice of
making weekly returns.
3. We commend to dealers the practice of
giving honest quotations, and all informa-
tion that the shipper may desire.
4. We denounce the carelessness with
which packages are left open, and pilfering
allowed by employes and callers.
5. We condemn the practice of selling
goods of different shippers by lump lots.
Fruit Exchanges. Mr. H. F. Bodine
presents a paper in which he puts forth the
advantages of the Fruit Exchange plan as
compared with the commission dealer sys-
tem. The exchange in Hunterdon County
is well frequented by buyers, and good
fruit has been sold for better prices than
were realized by the commission plan.
Mr. Valentine speaks of the success of the
" Fruit Growers' Union " in Hammonton.
This institution combines the auction with
the commission plan, but all the shipping
is done under the auspices and surveillance
of the Union, and consequently good ser-
vice is secured.
The Home Garden. Mr. C. L. Jones
gave a paper in which he describes the possi-
bilities and profits of the home garden in
the light of his personal experience. In the
small garden which a city home affords, we
have to concentrate our efforts. Mr. Jones
keeps two cold frames for early spring crops,
one for Radish and Lettuce, and another
for Pansies. Asparagus, Peas, Radishes,
Onions, and other vegetables are produced
in his little garden in great abundance. A
dozen Tomato plants are trained on trellis,
and furnish all the Tomatoes that his
family wants. Strawberries are planted
every fall for fruiting next season, and the
patch is then plowed or spaded and planted
to early Potatoes, Sweet Corn, Celery, etc.
He plants Gypsy, Prince and Pearl. A few
Raspberry vines, Cuthbert and Golden
Queen, give the next supply of fruits. Then
there are a few Fay's Currants which often
yield a peck of fruit to the bush, also some
Gooseberry bushes.
A few Muskmelon vines are started early
under glass, and will occupy the ground
after American Wonder Peas. Among
Sweet Corn varieties Triumph has been
found very satisfactory, and Dreer's is a
favorite among Limas. Of tree fruits Mr.
Jones' garden contains one tree each of
Black Tartarian and Early Richmond
Cherries, a few Pears, Peaches, and two
Quinces of the Orange variety. These two
Quince trees usually give him much more
than a home supply, and in one season he
sold a surplus to the amount of $22. There
are also a few rows of Grapes.
All this produce Mr. Jones thinks, pro-
vides for the necessities of the table, but he
wants some luxuries besides, and so he has
planted two exotic Grapes (White Muskat
and some other variety) in a south-eastern
exposure close to a building, and under the
protection of a few common hot-bed sash,
which form a kind of lean-to house. Any-
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
107
one. says Mr. .Tones, who has a tight fence
or l)uilding, seven feet high facing any way
except north, can grow plenty of exotic
Grapes in this manner, without much
troulile. The illustration (page lOli) explains
Mr. .Jones' idea more fully. The material
needed consists of a few hot-bed sash. which
can often be bought very cheap, and a few
cents' worth of boards. A door is put in
one or both of the ends. Proper ventilation
can easily be provided in a number of ways.
No insects, and no mildew will trouble the
vines thus protected.
The little garden described gives fruit and
vegetables the whole season through. Be-
sides these blessings it contains Roses and
all sorts of annual flowers to gladden the
hearts of wife and children. The results
are large indeed and satisfaction is not the
least of these.
To be contimicd.
Mushroom Culture in the French
Capital.
The often mentioned catacombs of Paris
were originally subterranean stone quarries,
which furnished the beautiful, soft, white
stones so much used in building up the city.
Abandoned as quarries, a part of this net
work of underground passages is used as a
sort of burial place, and the name cata-
combs,which properly belongs to this part,is
usually applied to the whole system of pas-
sages, which extend under the city at various
depths, sometimes nearly 200 feet below the
surface. All this is city property, and leased
to Mushroom growers in larger and smaller
portions. The passages are quite irregular,
from five to fifteen feet wide, and from six to
nine feet high.
Each of these underground farms has a
separate entrance or shaft, and its limits are
marked by walls. Fig. 1 shows the ground
plan of Mushroom farm belonging to Mons.
Pautry. in Montrouge, Paris, which is quite
extensive. Entrance is at A; B are the beds,
and the white spaces in the center of the
passages mark the walks between the beds.
A few oil lamps suspended here and there
above the beds, give the little Ught abso-
lutely needed.
In Fig. 2 we have cross section of an en-
trance or shaft. This is usually finished oft
with brick from the ground up. At the foot
rig. 6
Mushroom Faryn of Mr. Laeour in ParU. Fig. 4,
Oround Plan; Fig. 5. Cross Section of Cellars or Tun-
nets; Fig. 6, Cross Section of the Mushroom Sheds.
is an enlargement built as shown, while
entrance on top is covered with a simple
shed. Ladders are yet the usual means of
entrance and exit, while a basket, rope and
pulley are the means of bringing the crop
of Mushrooms out to the surface. The pre-
pared manure is usually thrown right down
into the mouth of the shaft, and allowed to
fall down to the foot, to be carried in baskets
to the place where wanted.
Fig. .3 gives us cross section of some of
these passages. Where dry, without drip
from the roof, the passage is left in its
original shape, as shown at 1, except that
sharp ends of projecting stones are knocked
off and the beds are placed close against the
sides. Drip from the roofs upon the beds is
always a serious matter, and may injure or
spoil the crop. Hence, where this occurs,
the walls or roofs must be made smooth, to
give the tunnel the shape shown in 2 or 3,
so that the water sickering through from
above will run down along the wall on each
side and behind a board partition, against
which the bed is made, and finally soak into
the ground beneath. To keep the air moist
rig. 3
Mushroom Fami of Mr. Pautry in the Catacombs of
Paris. Fig. 1, Ground Plan; Fig. 2, Cross Section of
Shaft; Fig. 3, Cross Section of Subterranean Passages.
in tunnels of this kind,boxes of fresh-burned
lime are placed every 30 feet or so apart in the
walks between the beds. The lime has to
be renewed from time to time.
Success in Mushroom growing, depends
on (1) good manure; (2) careful supervision;
(3) good spawn. Horse manure is the only
one suited for this purpose, and the best
is well soaked with urine, and from horses
that are fed chiefly on Oats and straw, and
worked rather steadily. The litter is to
be carefully removed, and the clean manure
piled up in pyramidal form, layer after layer,
tramping each one down firmly. The sides
are then raked off and made smooth and
solid with the back of spade. Each heap may
be protected by a covering of litter, and is
then left to itself for a period of eight or nine
days. Then it has to be shovelled over,mix-
ing the mass well to bring the outside inside,
and the top to the bottom. Where flrefang
is noticed, the portions should be well broken
up, moistened and mixed in with other por-
tions in the center of the new heap. These
heaps may have to be worked over in same
manner once or twice, and the manure is
then ready for use.
The beds are put up in same fashion as
described for the preparation of manure in
heaps. Layer after layer is firmly packed
with the feet, no water being used. The
surface is kept rounding towards the walks,
as shown in engravings, and the back part
of the bed made about two feet high. Fur-
ther treatment, insertion of spawn, etc., is
about the same as repeatedly described m
these columns.
There are now about .500 Mushroom
growers in Paris, 'who annually buy and
use manure to the amount of 200,000 francs,
or about $40,000, which is about one-tenth
the amount realized for the product in the
central market of the city.
Still not all of this vast crop is grown in
the catacombs. Some of the French market
gardeners make double use of their small
areas of garden by constructing cellars or
subterranean passages for Mushroom grow-
ing right underneath their regular crops of
garden vegetables. The Mushroom farm of
Monsieur Lacour, in Vangirard, Paris, one
of the best arranged of this kind, might be
duplicated in any locality with natural
drainage, in America as well as Europe.
Fig. 4 gives ground plan; Fig. R cro.ss view
of the underground section. Each of the
six tunnels or cellars is 300 feet long, nearly
ten feet high and six feet high in center,
having an incline of about three feet to its
entire length.
Convenient stairs lead down into the cross
passage at one end. A chimney (indicated
in illustration Fig. 4), consisting of four
boanls nailed together, and reaching from
inside of each tunnel high up above the
ground, provides the needed ventilation.
The walks or paths are slightly sunk below
the ground level of the beds.
The ground above this Mushroom farm
was at first used for the cultivation of a
general line of garden vegetables. Monsieur
I.,acour soon found that Mushroom growing
was much more remunerative, and he soon
hit upon the idea of making the surface
yield Mushrooms also. A first trial with
sheds proved satisfactory, and the surface is
now arranged as shown in Fig. 6. The shed
roofs are coated with tar, and provided with
eaves troughs to carry off the rain water.
Small windows, placed eighty feet apart,
and hung with cloth from inside, give what
light there may be needed. Two lines of hot
water or steam pipe are laid in the walks,
covered over with open metal plates, and
provide the heat needed in the colder season.
We think there is room for similar struc-
tures in this country.
Planting Dwarf Pears to Become
Standards.
JUDGE SAMUEL MILLER, MO.VTGOMERY CO., MO.
The Quince cutting forming the stock is
usually almost a foot long, and the trees
must be planted so deep that it is not an
easy matter, and unless the soil is deep and
rich is not always a success.
Many years ago I bought some Dwarf
Pear trees with the stem of the root not
more than three or four inches long. On
asking the man (as he was simply an ama-
teur), how he managed to grow such short
cuttings, he stated that he made rather short
cuttings in the first place, then when bud-
ding, he removed the earth away from
around the trees, inserted the bud an inch
under ground, replaced the earth and
banked up an inch or two more. This done
in August, the Quince stock would emit
roots above the bud, so that in the spring
he would have a rooted cutting for every
budded stock. Cut off close above the bud,
cement the stub, and when the bud had
grown a few inches, fill up with earth again.
When planting such trees, the Pear gets
six inches in the ground, without having to
dig a hole a footand a half deep and getting
into the clay. Of course Dwarf Pears should
have the soil over a foot deep well tilled,
but many will not go to the trouble of thus
preparing the ground. Dwarf trees of this
kind will soon send out roots from the Pear,
and be a half Standard, which I think is
preferable to either a full Standard or com-
plete Dwarf.
There are trees of this kind on my place
here twenty years old and bearing still,
while the Dwarfs planted shallow, that were
set out at the same time, are all gone.
1,639. Plants for Bockery. AmoDg plants which
thrive in dry sunny situations, and are suitable for
a rockery, we have: Alyssuni maritinium. A. saxa-
tile compactum. Arabia albida variepata, Arenaria
purpurascens. Aster longifolius formosus. Aubrietia
deltoidea grandiflora, Campanula garganica, Cheir-
antbus alpinus, Cistus laurifolius. Cytisus decum-
bent*. Draba bceotica Erica carnea and var alba.
Erysimum rupestre. Genista piasoox. Iberis corre«e-
folia. I. sempervirens plena. Lirbopttermum pros-
tjatum, Lotus corniculatus plenus. Pblox subulata
Nelsoni. P. verra, Potentilla spleiidens. Saxifraga
Burseriana. S Camposi. S. Cotyledon pyramidalis.
S. longifolia. Sedum spe'tabile Sileue mariDma
plena, and Zauscbneriy califormica. A few others
do well in somewhat thady. dry places, anoig
them: Hypericum calyctnum acd H olympicum,
Vinca major, and var. elegantissima, V. minor, and
var plena.
io8
POPULAR GARDENING.
February,
The Garden Mallows. -A Pure White
Variety.
The Mallows are easily-grown garden
plants, and as the flowers are attractive and
of pleasing odor, they are, in certain kinds,
among the more desirable plants for the
border.
In a recent issue of Mr. Robinson's Gar-
dening Illustrated, attention was called to
one of the most beautiful of the hardy per-
ennial Mallows, namely the White Musk
Mallow, a variety of the English Mallow,
Malva Moschata, and of which former we
reproduce the engraving herewith. It
is described as forming a branching
pyramidal bush, composed of numerous
stems about two feet high, and bears
an abundance of flowers from one inch
to one and a half inches in diameter.
It is a hardy perennial, and will grow
in almost any soil or situation, but a
hot, dry place suits it best, hence it is
well adopted to the American climate.
The plant is slightly musk-scented.
Among others, Malva carapanulata
is a beautiful dwarf plant, but rare and
difficult to grow well, as it is not quite
hardy except in very mild districts. It
is dwarf and spreading, and bears
numerous lilac bellshaped flowers. M.
Alcea, Moreni, and Mauritanica are
worth growing when a full collection
is desired.
The annual Malva M. Crixpa is also
valuable for all large collections. It
grows from three feet to six feet high,
forming an erect pyramidal bush of
broad leaves, with a curled or frizzled
margin. Bushes of this are pretty in
groups, beds or borders. It may be
sown in cool frames and put out early
in May, by which means strong plants
may be obtained early in the season.
One correspondent thus wrote last
summer respecting this annual Mallow
(M. cri«pa):— "I never see that any of
your correspondents mention this plant,
which is now to be seen with me in all
its beauty. I have a long bed full of
it. It grows to a height of four feet,
and bears large showy flowers of pink and
white. Every one is struck by the brilliancy
of the coloring and the size of the flowers,
which few have ever seen. It is very diffi-
cult to procure the right seed. Mine was
sent me last year from Guernsey, and this
year the flowers and foliage are lovelier
than last. My gardener saved the seed.
They make splendid decorations for a room,
and the flowers remain fresh for so long.
It is an annual that ought to be largely
cultivated."
square inches of space each. If the frame
is kept rather close for a few days the plants
will quickly get hold of the soil and with a
moderate quantity of air, at all times after-
wards, they will soon make sturdy plants,
that will lift with balls of splendid roots,
in masses as large as a man's hand. As a
matter of fact any pains taken to secirre
strong,short plants before bedding the better
assures the success of the season's work.
Strong-growing varieties like the Pseony-
flowered and Quilled Asters should be
planted from one foot to fifteen inches apart
The Culture of Chinese Asters.
WM. D. WILUS, BUCKS CO.. TA.
The secret of growing these favorite
autumn annuals centers in three points
namely: a well-enriched soil, plenty of sun
and plenty of water in dry weather.
In regard to soil they like rich and fairly
deep garden loam, preferring that which is
strong to sand. Manure from an old hot-
bed is as good a fertilizer as any, and a layer
at least two inches deep of this over the
space to be planted, spading it in, should be
about right. In pot culture— and the Aster
is a superior plant for exhibition and other
decorative purposes when grown in pots— it
is important to be at considerable pains to
have the soil properly prepared, if large and
perfectly-formed flowers is the aim. A com-
post should be used consisting of three parts
decayed sods, one part old manure with the
addition of a liberal quantity of leaf-mold.
It Asters are wanted in full bloom by
August, the seed should be sown in gentle
heat by the middle of March, and in three
weeks they ought to be transplanted into a
new position giving the plants about six
WHITE GARDEN MALLOW. Malra moKchata alha.
each way. In a rich strong soil they spread
out a good deal while in light sand there is
less inclination in this direction. It is well
to set the plants in a slight depression ex-
tending along the rows in one direction, to
facilitate watering in summer. As the
season advances the drills maybe gradually
filled in with the ettect to induce an increase
of roots near to the surface. The tall
varieties should be sustained by short incon-
spicuous stakes to prevent the rain from
bending or breaking down the plants.
For exhibition purposes Asters may be
grown singly in four or five inch pots.
Another favorite way is to set two or three
plants into six or seven inch pots, using the
soil described above. Each pot should be
filled with plants of the same color, other-
wise the effect will be far from satisfactory
when they are in bloom. The pots should
be plunged in coal ashes or soil during the
summer. In either case they must stand on
a hard bottom or else be set over a smaller
pot plunged beneath the regular pot to
prevent worms from getting into the pots.
At no time, whether grown in pots or
bedded out, should the plants be allowed to
suffer from want of water at the roots. As
the season of bloom arrives to treat the
plants to a dose of liquid manure of the
color of tea, will be beneficial.
There can be no doubt that judicious
shading of the flowers as they open, is con-
ducive to purer and better coloring in the
blooms. Although the flowers bear shading
the plants must have plenty of air. A
suitable shade may be provided by elevating
over the plants a glass sash the lights of
wliich have been coated with a lime wash.
The Botanic Garden at St. Louis:
Extending its Usefulness.
At a recent meeting of the trustees of the
Missouri Botanical Gardens the following
outline of general policy to be pursued in
the development of the important institu-
tion left to their charge was adopted:
To maintain and add to the present orna-
mental features of the garden.
To increase the botanical usefulness of
the collection by the introduction of
American plants, so that, other things being
equal, these shall ultimately be largely
represented, and may even prepon-
derate outside of the green-houses,
giving them in the garden an epitome
of the characteristics of our native flora.
To carry into execution, as rapidly
as possible, a system of correctly
naming and labeling all plants in the
grounds with the exception of such as
may be used in ribbon-gardening or for
other exclusively ornamental purposes.
To provide fire-proof quarters for
the invaluable herbarium of the late
Dr. George Engelmann, and to im-
mediately mount it in the proper man-
ner, so as to Insure its preservation
and availability for scientific use. Also
to provide for and add to the general
herbarium { based on that of Bem-
hardi ) now at the garden, with the
special object of making it complete
in good representatives of American
plants.
To arrange, bind, and index the books
and pamphlets at the garden. Also to
provide more ample, but equally safe,
accommodations for the library, to
bring it up to date as rapidly as possi-
ble, to enter subscriptions to period-
ical publication, and to keep it abreast
of the times and in the most useful
form by the purchase of important
publications as they shall appear, and
by the proper indexing of periodicals
and pamphlets.
To secure a botanical museum con-
taining material needed for study or
calculated to advance knowledge of
botany.
To direct the main effort of research for
the present toward aiding in the completion
of a systematic account of the fiowering
plants of North America, by the publica-
tion of monographs of different orders and
genera — illustrated when this may seem
desirable; and to cultivate representatives
of such groups for purpo.ses of study.
To gradually acquire and utilize facilities
for research in vegetable histology and
physiology, the diseases and injuries of
plants, and other branches of botany and
horticulture, as special reason for develop-
ing the one or the other may appear in the
judgment of the managers.
To make the facilities of the garden use-
ful in botanical and horticultural instruc-
tion, as they increase and opportunity for
such work appears; meantime in all feasible
ways to attract to the School of Botany
students of promise, and to provide for their
instruction and the best use of their time as
investigators.
To take steps looking to the early appoint-
ment of a number of "garden-pupils"—
youths with at least an elementary English
education, who shall be regarded as appren-
tices in the garden, working under the
direction of the head gardener and foremen
and shall hold scholarships sufficient for
their living expenses, together with free
tuition in the School of Botany; and who,
after having worked for several years in
the different departments of the garden,
and proved proficient in its practical work,
may be admitted to examination for a certi-
ficate of proficiency in the theory and
practice of gardening.
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
109
To have in mind, in appointing associates
for tlio director, their special aptitnde in
some line of the branches indicated above,
so that with each appointment the efficiency
of the institution toriustruction and origin-
al work may be broadened and increased.
Small-Leaved Mock Orange.
The Pliiladelplms, Syringa or Mock
Orange, is a genus of common native shrub
of many species, all of which are quite
hardy, and may be propagated by seeds,
layers, cutting, or division. They
are common in the mountains of
Virginia and southward. A few
years ago the subject of our illus-
tration, a small-leaved, dwarfish
variety (PliUadcli)hns microplii/l-
(»»■), was introduced here from New
Mexico, and it is a decidedly inter-
esting,and remarkable pretty little
shrub. The branches and twigs are
slender and erect; leaves one-half
to three-quarter inch long, ovate-
lanceolate or oblong, entire, slightly
obtuse. The shrub flowers just as
profusely as the larger kinds, and
the bloom has a delicate perfume,
somewhat intermediate between
the scent of Orange and of ripe
Quince, much pleasanter than that
of other species. Altogether we
think well of this newer introduc-
tion, and recommend it as worthy a
place among the choicest of small-
growing shrubs. Notwithstanding
its dwarfish nature, it grows mod-
erately fast. Our illustration is re-
duced from Gardener's Magazine.
A Chrysanthemum Banquet In
Japan.
The interest in the Chrysanthemum, so
intense in America and Kurope, nearly
encircles the globe. The following is a
translation from the Tokio Post of an ac-
count of the latest of the famous annual
Chrysanthemum shows in that city. The
translation was made by Garden and Forest
by Mr. K. Miyabe, the .Japanese botanist
now in Cambridge, Massachusetts.
According to the yearly practice the gar-
Birds in the Garden.
TT. PHELPS, ONEIDA CO., N. T.
I am not of these who think birds
a nuisance in the garden. I gladly
give them a chance at the fruits
they desire between their forages
on insects. There are more song-
sters and less insects in my garden
I think than in any other for a longdistance
around.
One thing that conduces to the presence of
birds is my encouragement to them to rest
on my grounds. I enclose a sketch of sev-
eral homes for birds made of sections of tree
trunks that I have located in my garden.
The blocks were sawed ofl* and afterwards
hollowed out suflficiently for a nesting place
by the use of an inch augur. The section to
tiie right was bored out from below, after
which an entrance was bored in from the
ground, and crowned with flowers of differ-
ent colors and shapes.
Next, to the right, was a bed (18 by 60 feet)
for large flowered varieties.
Parallel to this was a bed in which only
three plants were set out. The first one,
called the Golden Dew (Ogonno Tsuyu), was
decked with 338 blossoms, all golden yellow.
The next named, the Hanakai, has 2.53 blos-
soms of red color. The last, the Sanono
Watari, was covered with 173 white blos-
soms, and impressed one as the best of the
three. The flowers were all about
1 1.5 of an inch in diameter.
The next bed contained about 450
plants of about 60 different varieties.
Each plant was allowed to bear only
one flower, and the diameter of the
flowers was only aliout 15 or 16
inches. This bed seemed to be the
crowning show of the day. The
banquet was held in an arbor set up
on the lawn just in front of this bed.
Siiiiph Devices for Binls^ A'cste.
side and a lighting stick provided; then
it was nailed to a tree to represent a stump.
The smaller one had an opening made from
the top, over which a roof was nailed, as
shown in the sketch. It certainly does not
require unusual skill or ingenuity to build
a number of breeding boxes of these or
similar designs, and fasten them into the
trees for the little feathered policemen, who
pay well by their efforts in insect destruc-
tion for the fruits they consume.
SMALL-LEAVED MOCK ORANGE.— {Philadelphia microphyllus.)
deners in Tokio and Saikio raised many
rare and beautiful varieties of Chrysanthe-
mums forthe Imperial Garden by the special
order. On November 8 the members of the
cabinet, the foreign ministers and a few
others, were invited by the court to the
"Chrysanthemum Banquet." The follow-
ing accounts are written from what we have
heard from one who enjoyed this privilege:
The first bed, 18 by 120 feet, was placed
just behind the arbor. The entire bed was
roofed with screea mats made of reeds, in
order to protect the flowers from frost and
sun. From post to post on three sides of the
bed a curtain or screen, made of purple silk,
with the imperial badge, the Chi-ysanthe-
mum, relieved in white, was tied rotind with
crimson-tasseled ribbon. The flowers were
at their prime. They were of different
colors, and their diameters seemed to be
about three or four inches. Several hundred
of these plants were arranged without any
regular order in the bed. Among them, one
called the Sugawara, with petals red inside
and yellow on the outer sides, and the Kag-
aribi, with its crimson flowers, attracted a
great deal of attention.
The next bed to the left was roofed with
oiled paper screens, the rest of the surround-
ing structures being just the same as the
first. In this bed all those varieties having
the filiform petals were arranged. A white
flower called the " Aunobiki " is worthy of
note; the petals were fine as threads, droop-
ing down in tassels like a water-fall. One
variety with crimson petals tipped with
yellow was very conspicuous.
To the right there was one bed 12 by 60
feet, planted with 13 different root stocks, ;
each supporting numerous grafted branches, !
rising from the stem a little above the
Pansies from Seed.
PETER HENDERSON.
The seeds of Pansies maybe sown
in the sitting-room, greenhouse or
hot-bed where the temperature will
run from 65 to 75 degrees, any time
from middle of January to middle
of April, but the earlier in the sea-
son they ai'e sown, the stronger the
plants will be. The best way to
start Pansies, or in fact, any kind
of flower seeds, is in shallow boxes
rather than in pots. Use ordinary,
rich soil, make the surface perfectly
smooth and level, then press the
seeds gently down with a smooth
board, so as to merely sink it into
the soil; over the seed sift just
enough fine soil to hide the seed,
say about 1-16 part of an inch in
depth ; again press gently down
with a smooth board, and the sow-
ing is complete. Place your box in
the light, and water gently with
tepid water, so as not to disturb the soil. In
about five or si.x weeks from the time of
sowing transplant the seedlings into another
box, and when they Ijegin to crowd one
another, place in fiower pots, or boxes, to
be grown inside or in the open ground, as
may be desired.
When it is not convenient to give Pansies
the house culture just described, the seeds
can be sown in the open ground as soon as
it is dry enough to work in spring. They
should be sown exactly as described — in the
boxes — pressing down the seeds, then slight-
ly covering up, and pressing down again,
but they had better always be sown in rows,
and when they come up and are about an
inch or so in height, they can be transplant-
ed at a distance of one foot apart, and if the
soil is rich and the season at all favorable,
you may expect continuous bloom through-
out the entire season.
1,631. Bust on Verbenas. Keep only strong,
thrifty-growing plants and try to keep them
making healthy gi'owth. Watch the plants care-
fully, and throw out all infected ones as soon as
noticed.— P. G.
1,634. Wood and Coal Ashes. The former
contain a considerable per centagc of mineral
elements of plantfood, making a ton of it worth
from $8 to $1.5; the latter has no plant food what-
ever. Yet coal ashes possess some value as a
mulch for tree and small fruits, also in opening
up, mellowing and generally improving stiff clay
soils. Still there are prol)ably but few cases
when it would pay to hire team and wagon for
hauling coal ashes tour miles-
1636. Volunteer Tomato, This has been highly
praised as an early prolific and reliable sort by
growers at the North. It ripens its crop during
a comparatively short time, while Dwarf Cham-
pion, which gives a few ripe specimens earlier
than any other good sort we know; matures its
fruit slowly and steadily all through the season.
See also our "Notes of the Popular Gardening
Grounds," elsewhere in this issue.
I lO
POPULAR GARDENING.
February,
Winter Apples.
What cheer is there that is half so good,
Id the snowj* waste of a Winter night,
As a dancing tire of Hicltory wood,
And an easy chair in its mellow light,
And a Pearmain Apple, ruddy and sleek.
Or a Jenneting with a freckled cheek?
A Russet Apple is fair to view.
With a tawny tint like an Autumn leaf,
The warmth of a ripened Cornfield'g hue,
Or golden tint of a harvest sheaf;
And the wholesome breath of the finished year
Is held in a Winesap's blooming sphere.
They bring you a thought of the orchard trees.
In blossomy April and leafy June,
And the sleepy droning of bumble bees.
In the lazy light of the afternoon,
And tangled Clover and Bobolinks.
Tiger Lilies and Garden Pinks.
St. Nicholas.
How.
Where all the hills were green
Is a brown and barren waste.
But earth's fresh breath, that laughs at death.
Tells how the buds make haste.
Through the gray and faded grass
The green blades rise to light.
And the wind that grieves in the sweet dead leaves.
Is full of vague delight.
Touth^s Companion.
Poor Beedi poor crops.
Plan the spring's planting.
Crowding in time makes cripples.
City florists make up floral valentines.
Cold water with rising heat for frosted plants.
How abont eight hours work in the greenhouse?
Window plants seem glad for the longer days.
A man of family who has land and wiU not
grow some Grape vines should be deprived of
citizenship.
In a high dry heat expect now to see the red
spider on plants. Hemedy, moisture by syring-
ing or otherwise.
Dull days cause danger of damp in the plant
pots. Air freely on warm days and give the
plants more space.
Begonias in windows do not like to have their
leaves wet, especially when the room is cool. It
is apt to rot the foliage.
The Enmerle Lima Bean does not seem to be
in stock this year. Our thanks are due Mr. A I.
Koot lor a few seeds for testing.
Wild Violets found in bloom on my farm Dec.
Slth, 1889 ; this is wonderful for our latitude. —
D. F , Pecltsihm-oii-Huclson, JV. T.
He onght to take it. will you not speak to
your neighbor of the value of Popular Gar-
DENiNGy This we would aijpreciate.
A well -grown chrysanthemum, propagated
from a pure leaf, was recently e.vhibited in Eng-
land before the <'hrysanthemura Society.
Export of Apples. It is estimated that two
and a half million barrels of Apples were shipped
from the United States and Canada to Eogland
last year.
Kalamazoo Celery. If 1 should want seed in
quantity, 1 would bviy Henderson's Dwarf White
which is the same thing as Kalamazoo.— S
Rupert, Ohit) Celery Gardens.
The Oolden-tinted California Privet (Liffus-
trum ovalifoUum mire^im), quite a vigorous grow-
er, is decidedly attractive, and contrasts very
prettily with green leaved shrubs.
The good housewife may be able to make a
good suggestion. Let her examine your list of
seeds, ijlants and trees, for spring jilanting
before giving it to the dealer to fill.
The Nutmeg Hickory of Arkansas and vicin-
ity is pronounced liy Prof. Sargent to be the
strongest wood in the United States, while the
West Indian Birch is said to be the weakest.
America Leading England, Mrs. Alpheus
Hardy Chrysanthemum has long since taken a
place among standard sorts here ; in England it
has only just entered the first " test " stage.
Tropical fruit, such as Bananas, Pineapples
and Cocoanuts will probably not be produced in
the United States in quantities large enough to
make their growing an important industry.
In growings early Tomatoes for market, 1 find
nothing better than tin cans for potting, but it
will pay to out a hole into the bottom as large as
a silver dollar. Try and be convinced —A. M.
Nichiilx, Lhhiiig Co., O.
Boses and Climbers when first planted near a
wall orbuilding.and as yet having few roots,often
suffer from want of root moisture. As a rule it
is best to set these subjects at least a foot away
from the wall.
Florida Orange wine promises to become an
important article of commerce. The lowest dif-
ference in profits to the grower on 1,000 Oranges
sold in boxes, and manufactured into wine, is es-
timated at SIO.OO.
Blue Chrysanthemums. There is good ground
for the belief that Chrysanthemums with small
blue flowers are in existence in Japan. If this
proves true, the blue Chrysanthemum will soon
be seen at our exhibitions.
Bussian Willows and Poplars are favorably
mentioned by Prof. S. B Green, as promising for
economical purposes, ornamental planting and
windbreaks. Most of them strike readily from
hard and soft wood cuttings.
Here is a Chance. Sprouts are said to be in
good demand in the city markets, usually selling
at two or three times the price paid for the same
bulk of Cauliflower. Yet their culture is simple,
and the yield nearly as much as Cauliflower.
A remarkable tree is said to stand in Irwin
County, Ga. It is a Pine with two distinct bodies
but only one top. The trunks grew out of the
ground about five feet from each other, but at
forty feet united with each other to one top.
An Ivy Ball. Recently we met a perfect globe
of Ivy in the window of an amateur. It pleased
us so much that we herewith give an idea of the
wire form over which the plant was trained.
The plant alluded to was a thing of remarkable
beauty.
Grafting Wax, Here is a good recipe : 4 lbs
of resin, 1 lb. of beeswax, 1 pint of boiled linseed
oil. Melt all together, and when cool, pull as you
would taffy and form in balls or rolls. Be sure
to have the oil pure. This wax is pliable, neither
too soft, nor too stiff.
Black Pepper in Florida. It is stated that a
Mr. Heady has started a Black Pepper orchard in
Florida, and that he is very sanguine of making
it a financial success. The trees now in bearing
are yielding well, and the fruit is apparently as
good as the imported article.
Heliotrope, Salvias and Geraniums suffer easily
from excess of Tobacco smoke in fumigating.
By syringing the plants thoroughly before the
smoke in the greenhouse is started, thus tem-
porarily sealing the pores of the leaves, they will
escape injury from this cause.
Ardisia crenulata is named as one of the finest
of the berry-bearing plants suited for pot
culture. May be grown from seed, though a
slower grower than the Solanums, it is much
more enduring, and with fair treatment will
keep in good condition for several years.
The Caper of commerce is the young bud of
the Caper bush {Caperis spitwsa), which is culti-
vated in Sicily and Southern France. It forms a
dense mat of vines on the ground, and is of easy
culture. The plant also seems to thrive and pro-
duce well in the Southern part of California.
Canada Wood Ashes Some our friends across
the border begin to think that wood ashes are to
valuable as a fertilizer to be much longer allowed
to be taken out of the country. We hope the
Canada people will not be so hard on us as too
stop the export trade in this, to us, so useful and
convenient article.
Fruit in the Highway. There is plenty of
room along our roadsides yet for fruit bearing
trees. Plant tor the weary traveller, the fruit-
loving boy, the useful bird. Many of the high-
ways in Germany are straight, regular, Cherry
avenues— beautiful indeed, and yieldiug a con-
siderable annual revenue.
Cheap Orape Baskets, An Ohio firm offers to
establish a basket factory in Penn Yan or Ham-
mondsport of this state, and deliver to vineyard-
ists in that section small baskets at i2o and large
ones at $30 per thousand. Low prices of Grapes
make cheap baskets very desirable, if not an ab-
solute necessity for the vineyardlst.
A Worthy Ezamnle. Mr. George Palmer, head
of a well-known firm of Reading, England, re-
cently presented to the town 31 acres of land In
the eastern suburb to be used as a public recrea-
tion ground. Mr. Palmer has also promised
$1500 towards laying out the ground. It is pro-
posed to designate the site Palmer's Park.
The best way to treat a plant or tree, which
for some reason is to be kept in a rather small
pot, and in danger of becoming pot-bound, is to
remove part of the soil, from time to time, and
replace it with fresh soil that has had a small
quantity of " prepared flower food," or any high-
grade complete fertilizer thoroughly mixed in.
Bartlett Seedling, Mr P.C.Dempsey of Ontario,
Canada, states that he has a seedling of the
Bartlett Pear fertilized with Dutchess, the
fruit of which has every characteristic of the
Bartlett, both in appearance and quality, but
ripens at the season of its male parent, the
Dutchess, or about two months later than the
Bartlett does.
Evergreen Fences. Anything that adds the
feature of ornament and beauty to a place, also
adds to its cash value. An evergreen hedge or
two, rightly placed to hide unsightly objects, and
to add to the general air of comfort and beauty,
although costing but a few dollars for plants and
care, may add hundreds of dollars to the value
of the property.
Now the Lima Bean is threatened by a fungus
disease. This appears as a sort of white mold
that extends over and through the pod in an
early stage of development, and destroys its vi-
tality. Dr. Thaxter, mycologist of the Coven-
try station, is responsible for its discovery, and
we hope he will even do better, and give us a
remedy or preventive.
A good recipe for protecting trees against
rabbits and mice is this : One peck lime, one-
half pound copperas,one pound cheap glue. Dis-
solve glue and copperas, slack the lime, mix and
apply with brush. I have found this effective
and durable. The Ume besides being otherwise
useful, shows you where you have applied the
mixture.— r. W , Mwcotah, Kan.
Sand for Insects. Clear dry sand or road dust
put thickly around Squash, Cucumber and Melon
vines has often been used with good effect for
the yellow -striped Cucumber bug. Now a San
Diego (Cal.) man, by means of some contrivance,
so it is said, sends a blast of sand, hot or cold,
against his trees to kiU scale insects, and this
without the least injury to the trees.
Galvanized Staging, A gentleman who has
tried this staging in his greenhouses speaks of it
as having the following merits : It is practically
imperishable. In case it is put up with bolts and
nuts it is readily taken down and put in place
again. With heating pipes and flues beneath the
staging the temperature at the roots is five de-
grees higher than with old wooden stages.
The Scarlet Oak iQuercitx coceinea) has many
features that recommend it for ornamental plant-
ing, among them
hardiness, and
distinct striking
appearance of
foliage. To be
seen at its best,
it should be
planted clear of
other trees, per-
haps with Pine
woods in the
backgrou nd .
The contrast
then is particu-
larly pleasing.
It is a favorite
with cultivators
both here and in
Gliilir Frame far Iry England.
Early Training, An example of what this
will do, is told by a visitor at the grounds of Mr.
McD Allan, e.x-president of the Ontario Fruit
Growers' .\ssociation. He was shown around by
the children, and everyone of them seemed to be
an enthusiast in fruit and flower culture. Little
chaps of Ave and seven years old could tell every
varief.v of Pear and Apple among the many in
the well-jilanted, neatly arranged home fruit
garden of two acres.
Ink for Zinc Labels. The following is used by
some skillful gardeners: two parts of verdigris,
two parts sal-ammoniac, one part lampblack and
twenty parts of water. Mix well, and keep in a
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
1 1 1
buttle with (il!i.<s stopper: shake before usiiiB
This will keep any length of time. A steel pen
should be used writinjf on the lal>el. Common
writinK ink in whieh a little sulphate of copper
has been tli^sohrd, will also answer the purpose,
but a ipiill should be used in writing with it
They are Caaeht. Two thieves were recently
caught in the Hulfalo Post Office. Their names
are Edstrom and Bapst, both employees. It is
known that they took letters belonging to Popu-
lar G.^RDKXixc, but there is no telling how
many. It required the services of several Gov-
ernment detectives and the use of 1300 decoy
letters to cleanse the oIBce of thieves. If any of
our readers have failed to hear from their re-
mittances they will know what is the matter.
Shady G-reenhoase. My small plant house get,-.
but little sun in the winter. While all plants do
not succeed in it I would sjiy for the benefit ot
others who may have no better site for a bit of
glass, the following plants do admirably: Lapa-
geria rosea and its variety, alba. Camellias,
Azaleas, Ferns, Lily of the Valley, Hyacinths,
Tulips, Crocus, would do well in a shady house:
also Fuchsias, Uoses, t^'inerarias. Primulas, Palms
of various kinds,red and white Oleander. — M. S.
Fansies in Haine. I have been very success-
ful with Pansies in this.locality, and find light
garden loam, with a liberal supply of old hot-
bed manure, suits the seedlings admirably. For
early plants I sow the seed in March. After
pinching the young plants out in shallow boxes
I keep them near the glass in a cold frame, and
when sufficiently strong plant out. I find that
young plants fare badly, or rather, refuse to
grow in heavy clay soil, which with me suits
them when sufficiently grown, or in the frame to
plant out.— A. E. E., Kennebec Co., Maine.
The Catalpa is a bad neighbor to drains. Our
friend Wm. Falconer recently found his Mush-
room cellar aflood, the drains evidently being
choked up, and the trouble was traced to the vi-
cinity of two young Catalpa speeiosa growing
thriftily within a few feet of the line of the drain.
Here the pipes were found completely choked
with long ropes of the fleshy, thready roots of
the Catalpas, and a large proportion of their
main roots had even made a straight line for the
drain, which was of glazed tile. Other trees
nearby. Birch, Oak, Soft Maple, Frajiitug ornus.
Linden, Red Cedar and Honey Locust had shown
no inclination to throw their roots towards the
drain, or attempt to enter it.
Peach or Flnm. Our correspondent. Professor
Budd, says in the Farmers Ecview, that during
the past twenty .years he has watched the behav-
ior of the Peach when budded on young stalks
of the Wild Goose. Miner and other Chickasaw
varieties, and has about reached the belief that
in some respects they are preferable to Peach
roots. With a view to drawing out the opinion
of others he says : |1.) That he has not known
the borer to attack the Peach wood when budded
on these stocks above the crown. (2.) He has
thought that the Peach wood ripened up more
perfectly on these stocks and that for this reason
the fruit buds would bear a lower winter tem-
perature. (3.) He has believed that the Peach
would do well on this stock on soils where it
would nearly fail on Peach roots.
Local Apples, Specimens of the Virginia
Beauty were sent us by W. B. Kelly of Washing-
ington County, Va., who says that this fruit does
splendidly in the mountains, and is one of their
best. In appearance it is loo dark and dull to be
attractive. It is a sweet Apple, very juicy, and
pleasant. Altogether we hardly deem it of suffi-
cient value for general cultivation, even it it
should succeed as well elsewhere as it does in its
mountain home. From E. J. Carr. Rockingham
Co., S. U., we had specimens of Carr's Surprise,
which was awarded a special premium at the last
New Hampshire State Fair. The Apple is large,
oblate, of a very deep dull red with dark stripes.
Flesh red-streaked, coarse, sub-acid, not unpleas-
ant. Mr. Carr says the tree is an annual and
enormous bearer, of good shape, very \ngorous
and hardy, even surpassing the Baldwin. Evi-
dently the Apple is a good keeper, and Mr. Carr
claims to have kept them nntU midsummer with
ordinar.v treatment.
Floral Ornaments. Last summer I saw a beau-
tiful rockerv The design was a circle about
three feet in diameter; height about two feet.
The stones were laid up with a natural irregular-
ity, and in the pockets of earth between the
stones were planted Ferns, Mone>-wort, Sedums,
Portulaca, Verbena Montana, Kenilworth Ivy,
and in the top a large dark-leaved Coleus, with
Kusty Miller, iilanted in a circle at the roots of
the Coleus. It maiie a striking ornament for the
lawn Another pretty ornament was made by
beautifying a large stump that was left in a
friend's yard. There were Ferns planted around
the roots alternate y with Scarlet Geraniums,
while Madeira Vine and Senecio scandens were
running over the stump in every direction, mak-
ing a beautiful contrast with the bright red
below. Mrs. X. H. Gale.
The Hardy Pinks. What is known tis the Clove
Pink is rather more hardy than the Carnation of
THE CLOVE PINK.
which it is the parent. The petals are more
fringed, and the fragrance more powerful resem-
bling that of the Clove. In France it is called
the Clove Gilly-flower. The Garden Pink {Dian-
thus hortensU>) is a favorite species which reaches
perfection about the last of June. The foliage
is more grass-Uke and the plant much hardier
than the Carnation. The double varieties are
ver.v desirable, and all have Clove fragrance. D.
Chinensis. (China Pink.) This species is a bien-
nial of dwarf habit of great beauty, but with-
out fragrance. The foliage is of a yellowish
green It flowers from seed the first year, being
perfectly hardy. It flowers stronger the second
year. The colors are exceedingly varied and
rich : crimson and dark shades of that color ap-
proaching to black, are often combined in the
same flower with edgings of white, pink, or other
colors. Seed saved from double flowers will pro-
duce a great proportion of double flowers. In
beds where there may be a hundred plants,
scarcely two will be found alike. D. harhatus
(Sweet William) is an old inhabitant of the flow-
er garden, and was much esteemed in Gerarde's
time " for its beauty to deck up the bosoms of
the beautiful, and garlands and crowns for pleas-
ure". Fine varieties are perpetuated by dirtding
the roots It is easily raised from seeds. A bed
of fine sorts presents a rich sight It sports into
endless varieties, viz. : white, pink, purple crim-
son, scarlet, and variously edged, eyed, and
spotted. The whole family of Dianthus are
readily increased by seeds or cuttings.
New York Floral Notes.
The florists are not inclined to quarrel with the
holiday trade; the crop was not large, in conse-
quence ot dull weather, but it fully met the
demand. Prices at New Years were materially
less than at Christmas, but the dealers say they
did better than they expected. The trade in
Christmas greens seems to have fallen off consi-
derably, but Holly and Mistletoe sold well. The
demand for fine English Mistletoe is growing,
but a good deal of the American variety has
been in the market, and this is likely to bring the
real original article into disrepute, as it is not
nearly so handsome; the leaves soon shrivel up,
and the berries are less showy. It is the same
with Holly; that from the southern states has
not the substance of the English plant, nor is it
so well berried. It is a pity each holiday time to
see the quantities ot Kalmia, Chimaphila, and
other native plants just stripped or dragged up
by the roots; many of our finest native plants
will soon be extinct, unless measures are taken
for their protection. The Kalmia has been killed
in so many localities bj' forest fires that this
wholesale stripping at (.'hristmas becomes a
serious matter.
Pink Roses were perhajis the poorest of all at
Christmas, as the lack of sun made them so
badly colored.
White flowers seem growing In favor for deco-
ration ; the most fashionable dinner arrange-
ment is entirely colorless. .\ recent decoration
consisted of Roman Hyacinths and Maidenhair.
The center-piece was a low oval basket filled
with these flowers. The favors for the ladies
were large hand-bouquets of the Hyacinths;
they were laid on the table, forming a great
wreath around the basket. The gentlemen's
favors were large boutonniers of the Hyacinths.
Some charming white decorations are composed
of Paper-white Narcissus. Of course Roses
really take the lead for table decorations; what-
ever other flowers come into favor, these still
hold a front rank. Some pretty dinner decora-
tions of La France, though not by any means
novel, are much admired: the style remains the
same, the flat basket in the centre, with the
favors grouped around it.
Very fine Lilum auratum made its appearance
in the market before the holidays; it sold well.
Large flowers, like these Lilies, Pancratiums,
Amaryllis,etc., find a sale now, though years ago
they were not regarded as florist's flowers.
The great event of the season, in the decora-
tive line, was the Patriarch's ball of January 2d.
The Metropolitan Opera House is such an im-
mense place that any small arrangement would
be utterly lost, and a most lavish use of stuff
was necessary. Naturally, the greater part con-
sisted of Evergreens, Kalmia, Juniper, and
Southern Pine. The idea was to represent a
forest, while the corridors and foyer were the
surrounding glades. Walls and ceilings were
covered, and big Junipers stood at the angles of
the corridors. Palms and Orange trees stood
about in the foyer.
In the ball-room, which consisted of the great
auditorium, floored over level with the stage,
the forest effect was fully preserved. The face
of the boxes looked like a steep mountain side,
covered with verdure. Tall Evergreen trees stood
up against the lower tier, hiding the front, while
the boxes themselves were filled with green.
The balustrade along the front was covered with
green, and banked with flowers, fiats of Tulips,
Hyacinths, and Narcissus being used for this
purpose. Tulips and other flowers were hung in
the Evergreen trees in front, brightening them
wonderfully. The upper tiers of boxes were
filled with green, and a delicate tracery of vines
and greens hid the lofty dome of the roof. The
great proscenium arch was masked in green,
while the stage was set with a most enchanting
garden scene. Fine Palms and Orange trees
stood about, while at the back and sides was a
raised terrace of flowers, chiefly Lilies and Pink
Roses. The entire effect was most charming,
and it was really the most elaborate decoration
of recent years.
The florists still say that boxes of loose flowers
take the lead for holiday gifts; baskets and
designs are much less called for. When baskets
are arranged, they are usually simple in form.
New Years week there was an immense stock
of Violets on hand; they could hardl.v be given
away, yet the demand for this flower is steady
and constant. Just now a favorite buttonhole
bouquet is a bunch of half a dozen Paper-white
Narcissus, grouped tightly together. The hand
bouquets are still very large and loose ; most
of them are very costly. The society papers
have had a good deal to say about the one lucky
debutante who carries a hundred dollar bouquet
to great balls, but this looks like an advertising
scheme on the part of the young lady's friends.
Some of theOrchid baskets are very handsome;
a silver basket flUed with pale Cattleyas and
Maidenhair was a very delicate combination.
Primula obconica is used a good deal ; the plants
make a pretty bank, when used in profusion,
though alone they are rather weedy. Bulbs are
used a good deal in large decorations, but Tulips
and the like have really seen their best days for
fine work. Of course, they will always be used,
but they can't be considered fashionable flowers.
Trade was really in a very chaotic condition at
the holidays; half the florists were down with
the grippe, and the same may be said of their
patrons. The epidemic was undoubtedly respon-
sible for a serious loss of trade; certainly this
winter has been haid on the florists genei ally.
EsuLY Louise Taplun.
I 12
POPULAR GARDENING.
February,
FRort
THE
SOciETtes
lEKMrMATRR'niAl DBtUtVET
TO afTwiDEvrtcHowiL
Nems ha Raspberry. Prof.
' Tnjiip.at last meetiug of
Indiana horticulturists, pro-
nounced it the equal of
Gregg' in e\ery respect.
Michigan Horticnltural
Society. At the recent meet-
ing the following officers
were elected for 1890. President, T. T. Lyon,
South Haven; Secretary, Edwy C. Keid, Allegan;
Treasurer, Sherman M. Pearsall.
Hill's Chili Peach. Members of the Washte-
naw Pomological Societj' stated at a recent
meeting that Hill's Chill has proved a failure for
several years, Mr. Baldwin said it should be
planted on the richest soil.
Fmnin^ Trees. Keep all tramps out of the
orchard that are around after jobs of pruning.
Let no man prune in your orchard without you
know he is a skillful hand at the business. — Mr.
SchvUz, before the Miswuri State Hoii. Snciety.
Shipping Qreen Frnit. Mr. Manville, chief of
the literary department of the Florida Fruit Ex-
change, estimates that the loss to the Orange
growers of Florida this season, directly attributed
to careless packing of the fruit, will be in the
neighborhood of $350,000.
Indiana State Horticaltnral Society. The
officei-s for 1800 elected at the last anuual meeting
are as follows: President, Joseph Katliffe, Rich-
mond; 1st Vice-President, .Joseph Burton, Mitch-
ell: Secretary, C. M. Hobbs, Bridgeport; Treas-
urer, Daniel Cox, Cartersburg.
Missonri Horticulturists. The following oflS-
cers were elected for 1890 at the last meeting of
the state society by acclamation: President, J.
*:. Evans, Harlem; Vice-President, N. F. Murray,
Oregon; Secretary, L. A. Goodman, Westport;
Treasurer. D. S. Holman, Springfield. All were
re-elected.
Section of Pomoloey at Washington. The
Michigan horticulturists are not satisfied with
the achievements of the Bureau of Pomology in
Washington as at present managed, and at the
meeting in Hart adopted a resolution expressive
of the demand for speedy change in its general
management.
Selection of Peach Varieties. The Hardin Co.
(Ky.) Horticultural Society selected the follow-
ing as best for their soil: 1 — Asmden's June; 2 —
Early Rivers; 3— Crawford's Early, 4 -Crawford's
Late; 5 -Stump the World; 6— Mountam Rose;
7— Old Mixon Free; 8— Salway; 9— Smocks Free;
10— Bilyeuc's Late.
Hannre for Grapes. Mr. A. Cay wood, of Ulster
Co., N. Y., was called upon at a recent meeting
to give his experience with manures on vines.
He said that he uses all kinds of raanui-e that he
can afford to buy. He likes stable manure to
get a growth of vine, and afterwards uses more
commercial fertilizers.
No Hannre, No Onions. On my Onions I have
always put some stable manure, but this year I
put nothing on them. 1 thought it might do with-
out for one year, and the consequence was I had
about half a crop. With a little help of our
maggot*; I managed to lf)5e S'^-tO.— il/r. Joh)ison
hefiirc the Farmerx'' Meetinu in Broctnn, Masn.
Sslection of Plums. For orchard planting J
would choose the following, named in the order
of ripening: Washington, Bradshaw, D':ane's
Purple, Prince Engelbert. Union Purple, Lom-
bard, Oueii, Quackenbos.=, Purple Egg, Coe's
Golden Drop. Reine Claude. Shropshire.— Mr.
Gebharil Iiefore tlit Miehiyan Hort. Society.
re'dini; Little and Often. If we use all fish
scraps, it would be ,iust as well to put the fer-
tilizer all on at the beginning of the season; but
it is very much better even on those soils that are
all right by themselves, to feed the plants a little
through the season, rather than to give it all at
one time, especially if the fertilizer contains anj-
of the soluble salts.— IT'»). H. liowher. hcfmr the
Farmers^ Meetinu in Uti>iton.
American Horticultural Society. The ninth
regular meeting of the American Horticultural
Society will convene in Austin.Texas, on Monday,
the 17th day of February, LSOO. Members of the
Society and horticulturists generally are invited
to this important meeting, which promises to
equal the great California meeting of two years
ago in its results. The .Secretary will take pleasure
in giving all needful information concerning this
meeting to those applying by letter.— TT. B
ttanan, Seeretary, Greenccuitk, Iml.
Seed and Fruit. Good fruit is more or less
dependent on good seed. In the production of
Apple seeds, the essential proper diversity in
character of the parents is best obtained by
affording nature the greatest opportunity for
perfect fertilization by the use of pollen from
different varieties. Trees so situated as not to
receive pollen from other varieties will not
mature good fruit under conditions as adverse
as will trees that do receive pollen from others —
F. J. Mann, before the TUinoin Hort. Society.
manure Pays at Some Time. The food that is
not consumed one year will be used the next.
The handsomest field of Corn that 1 ever saw
stand, even in Arlington, I raised on a high-grade
complete fertilizer, planted with a horse machine.
The leaves were all green. They went way down
to the ground. Other Corn stood as high, but
the leaves did not go to the ground. Manure
should be composted that the crop can take hold
with the fertilizers. I must give my testimony
enterely in favor of fertilizers.— Mr. Johnson.
American Association of Nurserymen. At the
last meeting, in Chicago, it was decided to hold
the next meeting, first Wednesday in June, in
New Y'ork City or vicinity. The executive com-
mittee now propose to hold it at the ParkA venue
Hotel, on Fourth avenue, between 3;M and 33d
streets, nine blocks south of the Grand Central
Depot The hall has a seating capacity of 700,
and is said to be one of the quietest rooms in the
city. Price of board and rooms will be reduced
to i3.00 a day. Members who think they have a
better place to suggest are asked to communicate
with the secretary of the Association, Chas. A
Green, Rochester,N. Y.
Apple Scab. Prof, Goff, before the Wisconsin
Farmere' Institute, said the best preventive as
yet known for Apple scab is ammoniacal carbon-
ate of copper;one ounce carbonate of copper dis-
solved in one quart of ammonia, diluted with 90
parts of water, and spraying the tree and fruit
with it before the scab is too far advanced. The
disease seldom appears in young, vigorous or-
chards, but is a source of much trouble in old
thickly grown trees. The microscopic spores
which produce scab are more susceptible to
growth in a damp atmosphere than in dry, hence
there is more danger from it in thick-growing
trees where the sun has not an opportunity to
dry out the dews and rain.
Adaptation of Fruits. .\ new fruit may be
introduced with high commendation by the
originator, and the most flattering testimonials
from his neighbors. Planted in other localities
by enthusiastic amateurs and commercial grow-
ers, it may be found unsuccessful. It is there-
fore pronounced a fraud and its introducer a
humbug or a swindler. Yet it is quite possible
that all was said of it was true, in the locality
where it originated, and under the treatment it
received, the failure having occurred from an
uncongenial soil and location, or from improper
treatment. The important part of horticultural
knowledge is to be understood what fruits are
best adapted to our different soils and localities.
Prom Geo. W. Campbell's Address to the Ohio
atate Hort. Society.
Effects of Spraying; Birds, etc. One pound
of London purple to 100 gallons <?i of water is
found to be the most effective, and at the same
time of the least injury to the trees. Spraying
with clear water alone in the hot boiling sun will
scald the leaves; therefore spraying with insecti-
cides should always be accompanied with the
best of judgment and care, and never when
hot sun poure down upon the trees after
spraying. Spray early for the canker worm.
Insecticides do not destroy the birds, or effect
the poultry or other stock, except bees. Always
spray with the wind. Kerosine is good for the
destruction of the tree cricket. Encourage the
friendly birds by hanging hundreds of gourd
nests in the orchards. Never destroy the blue-
birds, pewees, kingbirds, woodpeckers, swallows,
and many other friendly birds, which while some
of them may damage a little fruit, they far moj-e
than compensate by the wholesale destruction of
our insect enemies.
Blackberry and Baspberry Varieties. P. A.
Vandenburg, ga\cthe follow inga.'^ his experience
in Jersey county. Of Blackberries he grows only
Snyder for main crop; is early, hardy and pro-
ductive. Trim closely; leave berries on bushes
until ripe. Taylor and Early Harvest not hardy
with him. Kittatinny rusts badly and winter-
kills. Of Raspberries for a home market Turner
or Thornless cannot be beaten; hardy, rank
grower and immensely productive. Hansen is
the earliest red, bears a long time, is hardy, a
moderate grower and good shipper. Brandywine
about the same. Cuthbert is rightly named the
"Queen of the Market:" rank grower, berry
large and the best shipper of the reds. Has not
found Marlboro profitable, though one of the
finest reds; same of Crimson Beauty Golden
Queen has done well, but has not been tested in
market; it can grow suckers as prolific as Turner
and as rank as its parent. Suhegan or Tyler
leads the blackcaps; has no equal for profit, pro-
ductiveness or hardiness. Hopkins comes next
in value, though not so early: Ohio next Grows
Gregg only to lengthen the season, not perfectly
hardy —III. State Hint Society.
Management of Blackberries. Mr. N. Ohmer
at a horticultural meeting in Indiana, gave the
following as the result of long and extensive
experience: When the bushes have grown to
about three feet high, and early in the season,
the laterals are clipped back not to exceed eight
or ten inches. This will reduce the berries in
number, but they will be so much larger as to
bring more money in market. This remark ap-
plies to the Snyder, and Mr, Ohmer said there
was more money in that berry than in any other
he had ever tried. Every bud where the bush is
cut back will produce a large cluster of berries.
Without this treatment you will have only small
ones. He had a good crop at the same time that
the berries of other persons were dried up. Both
cutting back and frequent cultivation between
the rows are necessary. The bushes should not
be allowed to grow more than three feet high,
and be cut back early in the season. The rows
are eight feet apart, and the bushes four feet in
the rows. The canes are so full of fruit that
"you can hardly get through for the berries."
He has a sharp five-blade tool, which cuts all the
sprouts out of the way and gives clean ground.
A New Fruit— The Japanese Candle-
berry Myrtle.
At the last meeting of the California Hor-
ticultuial Society, Mr. H. H. Berger, well
known as an importer of Japanese product.s,
e.xhlbited samples of the fruit of Myrlca
rubra in alcohol, giving the following de-
scription of it:
This evergreen fruit-bearing tree, indigenous
to Japan, has only lately attracted the attention
of botanists. It is a native of the southern parts
of Japan, attains a height of forty to fifty feet,
a diameter of two and one-half to three feet.
The foliage, which is evergreen, resembles the
Magnolias and is of a firm, leathery texture. The
fruit blossom appears early in spring, and the
fruit ripens during the month of July. It re-
sembles in shape a firm Blackberry, an inch long
by three-fourths of an inch in diameter. It con-
tains a single seed stone of light weight. There
are two varieties of this fruit The one is a dark
red, almost black, the other a light rose, which
is superior even in Havor to the dark. The fruit
is highly flavored, vinous and sweet, and answers
all purposes our Blackberry is put to. It is deli-
cious as a desert fruit, makes a tine preserve,
jelly or jam.
The juice extracted from it may be taken as a
refreshing beverage in its fresh state and after
being allowed to ferment produces a fine «ine.
set with alcohol, a brandy is gained from it equal
to our famous Blackberry Brandy. The tree it-
self is highly ornamental, the bark is useful for
dyeing a fawn color, and the timber is used in
Japan for the most elegant cabinetware, having
a finer mottled grain than the Bird's-eye Maple.
The wood is light, tough and very durable. The
tree is perfectly hardy in all latitudes where
the thermometer will not fall below 15° above
zero. It would succeed admirably throughout
California, Texas, Mexico, and all the Southern
States of the Union.
The propagation of this useful tree is best car-
ried on from seed, to which it comes true, or by
grafting scions from a fruit-bearing tree on seed-
lings, which thus will come in bearing in a couple
of years. The seed ought to be sown in leaf-
mold, and loamy soil with bottom heat if obtain-
able. The same ought to be kept well shaded
and mulched.
The seed is light and ripens during July and
August. Plants ax*e not to be obtained as yet,
as the Japanese have never propagated the tree
beyond the chance seedlings. There is no doubt
that this tree would be a most valuable acquisi-
tion for California.
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
'13
Hot Beds Their Preparations and
Care.
IKxtracI of paper read by L. A. Cn.v»r before the
rotlaieotomie Counlu. loxni. Horliexillural Socirtu.]
The construction of a hot-bed is merely
a simple box, made in any size desirable: it
should be two and one-half feet deep, and
the sashes should be three feet by si.\, and a
cross-bar at the edse of each sash for support.
The Manure. To be successful, you should
haul vour heating material, which consists of
fresh horse manure, early in the fall before the
(fround freezes, so that it may start to heat and
keep a warm place for later on and keep adding
fresh all the time.
To make it successful it should l>e turned over
three or tour times Ixjf ore using for early beds.
Uy keeping your manure in this condition, you
can start your bed at most any time, and it gives
you the advantage of fine days, which is teces-
saryforagood bed. In handling manure on a
cold day it chills it so that it is liable to freeze
out in spots or altogether. Care should be taken
that the bed is evenly warm its whole length.
The Soil. After tilling your beds with manure
to the top of the frame, place your sash thereon
until sufficiently warm, say from one to three
davs as the weather may require, then remove
sash and tramp manure solid, let it remain for
one day longer, then place from four to si.x
inches of soil over the entire bed. This soil
should be prepared in the fall and thrown
through a screen: by so doing it can begot at
very easily any time during the winter. For
general crops the soil should consist of sandy
loam with about one-fourth manure. When the
soil in beds becomes sufficiently thawed out and
warm, it may then be planted with Lettuce
taken from cold beds.
Cold Frame Management. A cold frame is
simply a frame constructed the same as a hot bed
only not so deep, and the Lettuce seed is sown in
those beds from September 10th to the 30th in the
natural soil. As soon as severe frost approaches,
sashes are placed on those beds, only on cold
nights, or when there is a sudden change of tem-
perature. They are placed on them for the pur-
pose of what wf? term "hardening plants." The
plants are then hardened by degrees. When the
weather is mild the sashes are removed and the
plants protected only when extreme changes
come. By this treatment Lettuce plants can be
hardened so that they will stand 2.t or 30 degrees
of cold; in other words, the ground may freeze
from eighteen inches to two feet under the
plants and still not destroy them. After the cold
weather sets in the sash should be covered by
manure, the manure to remain on all winter. It
it should turn warm and your plants Ijegin to
get mouldy and wet, it is necessary to raise up
the sash and give them air: also, in thawiug out
in spring; the sash should be open when there is
warm air and closed when it gets colder, so as to
thaw the plants out by degrees.
Planting in Hot-bed. By this process a large
amount of plant.s can be half-grown and they
can be got at most any time in the year. This
enables vou, therefore, to grow two or th-ee
crops inone hot-bed. Those plants should be
transplanted si.\ inches apart in the hot-beds.
Februarj- is the month in which Cabbage seed is
most generally sown. This is a very important
part of the business, as a great deal of the suc-
cess of the grower depends on the good quality
of his plants. Cabbage should be sown in boxes
in two inches of soil put on the manure oefore
putting the boxes in the bed, the boxes should
be raised to the heighth of two inches from the
soil; the soil should consist of halt sand and half
loam. By this method you prevent altogether
or partly so at least, a fungus that comes on
your plants at the surface of the ground, and
eats the bark off all the plants. Many of us have
labored under great difftcuUy to overcome this
fungus, but when it apiiears, the grower had
better throw away his plants, or all those that
are affected and sow new seed, as his results from
new seed will be a great deal better than from
the wire-rooted plants.
Other Plants. Next come Tomato and Egg-
plants, which are sown about the 1.5th of March.
I would adi-ise for them fresh manure right
from the barn, as the season is advancing then,
and it is not necessary to have heat for any great
length of time. Tomato and Egg-plants sprout
best in a temperature of BO degrees at night, and
75 to 100 degrees in day time. After Tomoto and
Cabbage plants come to a sufficient size to allow
transplanting, the Cabbage plants should be
transplanted in a cold frame, and hardened off
so that when they are removed to the field the
change won't affect their growth. The plants
may be picked out to the distance of one and
one-halt inches to two inches apart. Cauliflower
requires the same treatment. Tomatoes. Egg
and all tender plants should l)c picked out into a
hot-bed with liottom heat, at a distance of four
inches apart.
General Management All beds of Lettuce,
Radishes and Cabbage plants should lie aired
whenever an opportunity occurs, especially in
the early stage of the bed, as the heat is more in-
tense and the plants require more air, as the
change is great from a cold bed to a hot-bed.
The plants should be kept as cool as possible for
the first few days to start in. This gives your
plants a chance to get well rooted. The beds
may lie forced to extreme heat at the latter end
of the crop without injury to it. both for Lettuce
and Hadishes.
Culture of Cyclarnens.
{Abstract of a paper read by Mr. Walker at the Pajrton
Society's meeting, Rotbtcell, West Yorks.t
I know from experience that the Cycla-
men, is not an easy plant to grow; it re-
quires strict attention from the seedling
stage onwards.
Sowing Seed. Success will greatly depend upon
proper time of seed sowing, and this is as soon
as the seed is ripe— namely July, August and
September,thetwo former months being the ticst.
The seed may be sown as late as January, but
the results would not be so satisfactory. Sow in
pans in a compost of rough sandy loam and leaf
mould, well draining the pans, and not filling
them, adding halt an inch in depth to the mix-
ture finely sifted on the top. Press firmly and
water with a flne-rose pot, so that the whole is
moistened; when dry enough the seeds may be
sown on the surface and pressed in lightly in-
stead of spreading soil over them. Place a piece
of paper over the pan, also a square of glass,
until the seeds germinate,then remove the paper,
allowing the glass to remain. Shade from hot
sun until they form roots, and when this is ac
complished, graduaUy bring them to the light.
When the young plants are about an inch long
they should be pricked out into pans or boxes in
the same kind of compost as already recommend-
ed. Ventilation must be provided during the
early part of the day, and they should also be
slightly syringed two or three times daily.
Care of Plants. When the weather becomes
colder remove them to a warm house, and
above all, place them as near the glass as pos-
sible. The temperature should be from 4.5° to .50°
where they may remain until the middle of April
or the beginning ot May. By that time it will
be necessary to plant them out in a bed facing
east, made of materials similar to a Cucumber
bed. or any half-spent manure wUl do, for it is
not necessary to have it hot. Cover the surface
with a compost ot loam and leaf mould to the
depth of about six inches, made firm, so that
when lifting time comes the plants will be taken
up with a good baU of roots. They may be plan-
ted in rows six inches apart, so that when they
begin to get crowded, e\eiy alternate row may
be lifted and transplanted as stated. It is neces-
sary that each plant should have ample room,
and at the same time take care that the corms be
well out ot the soil.
The reason they are placed in an eastern posi-
tion is that in the early stage of growth, and
after being slightly dewed with a syringe, the
frame can be closed much earlier. It should be
understood that they require shading during hot
weather to prevent flagging, with slight ventila-
tion late at night. By this treatment they com-
mence flowering early, but it is necessary and
safer to remove all the flowers until the plants
are established. Green fly and red spider must
be kept in check, or they will injure both leaves
and flowers.
The treatment given may tie continued until
September, when lifting and potting wUl be
necessary. This should be done with care using
no larger pots than are absolutely necessary to
get the roots into, as they do not make much
root either before potting or after. Keep them
well up in the pots to avoid water standing on
the corms, for it allowed to be left in that state
some will damp cff. When potted place them in
a cold frame, keep them near the glass, shade
from hot sun for a few days, frequently syring-
ing, and on dewy nights the light can be drawn
off. When thoy are established in these pots the
lights are drawn oft in bright sunny weather and
the plants syringed several times a day, and by
so diiing they never flag. Close the frames about
three o'clock in the afternoon, and open them
about six or seven o'clock, according to the
weather. By this time the plants will commence
throwing up a few flowers, which will be found
useful. As the weather t)ecomes too cold for
them to remain in the frame remove them to
any suitable house at command with a temper-
ature of from 4.i° to .50°. Avoid damp atmos-
phere : plenty of air must be admitted when the
weather permits, and a little fire heat can be
given with care. The leaves and flower stems
are liable to damp near the corms, and when
such is the case a little sulphur placed upon the
affected parts will prevent its progress. When
the flowei-s are wanted for use they should be
pulled out. not cut, as the pieces left (if cut) de-
cay and affect those remaining. I have large
plants grown in this way, which commence
flowering early in November and continue until
May. I also find that the early-sown plants
flower longer and later, producing more and
better flowers. Old corms are not worth the
trouble of growing, for they come into bloom so
late and they are not nearly so productive as
young ones.
Influence of Locality on Fruits.
\E.rtrnctfrom paper read by J. J. Thoiiuis, at a recent
meeting of the Society for the Promotion of Agricul-
tural Science,]
Many pomologists believe that varieties
of fruit raised in our own localities are bet-
ter suited to this country than those from
foreign lands Hence, to obtain such varie-
ties as are of the highest character for en-
durance and excellence, we must select
those originating in America.
The Apple. Some f ruits.particularly the Apple,
after fully developing, are largely controlled in
character by soil and climate. Of the .337 Apple
varieties named in the last catalogue of the
American Pomologieal Society, but a small num-
ber succeeded well in all the States The most
popular Winter Apples at the North become
summer and autumn fruits in the South, and are
ot little value there, and the best sorts in the
East are unsuited to the soil and climate of the
West. The few which succeeded best in all local-
ities are those lipeningin summer and autumn,
the summer in the North being long enough to
give full maturity, though later than in the
South. As an example. Early Harvest is es-
teemed as a valuable fruit in 3B States and Red
Astrachan in 37, while the Baldwin, the most
popular Apple at the North and East is recom-
mended in only 20 States and from almost none
at the South and West.
On the other hand, Ben Davis,the most popular
western variety, is confined almost wholly to the
western and southwestern portion of the Union,
and is only recommended in Si States. Yet to
prove that the locality of origin has little to do
with the fitness of a fruit in any place, it is only
necessary to state that over halt of the Apples
most highly valued at the West,especially among
summer and autumn sorts, were brought from
the East. The natural fitness of the soil, cUmate
and other influences of the United States for the
growth of the apple has been such that innumer-
able orchards have been planU-d, and in the
course of a century or more many new varieties
have been originated, hence most of our cultiva-
ted sorts are American.
The Pear. This is least influenced by external
causes. Some of our finest varieties are of Euro-
pean origin.and a larger number of these foreign -
ers are adapted to this country than native sorts.
Bartlett and Angouleme.from Europe,are exten
sively successful as the native Lawrence and
Seckel. Of 117 varieties named in the catalogue
above mentioned, «7 are of native origin. Seven-
teen.at least.oftheforeigners are among the most
valuable and excellent sorts. It seems, indeed,
to be a sufficient answer to those who would con-
fine themselves to natives, to name the Bartleit
Pear, which is now by far the most popular mar
ket sort in America. It has been known in Eng-
land more than a century as William Bonch-
retren. The Anjou is a French Pear, and Mar-
shall P Wilder has said that it he were confined
to a single variety, he would select Anjou as best
of all, while Charles Downing selected the Bosc,
another French Pear, as the most valuable varie-
ty These facts, and the principles which they
estabUsh, are thus briefly given that cultivators
may enjoy the widest resources for selecting and
testing fruits.
114
POPULAR GARDENING.
February,
Botany and the Public Schools.
yExtract of paper rea<t by Mr. P. Sewell before the
British Association at Neu'castle-07i-Ti/ne.]
School Botanical Gardens may be con-
structed at a very slight cost, and the prac-
tical study ot botany be adopted with ad-
vantage in the training of even the youngest
children.
The garden (flg. 1) to which we would first call
attention is in a boarding school near Edinburgh
Its whole area is not more than 7i) by 60 feet, and
its plan is the simplest possible, viz. : regular
pOws of beds, four feet in width, with narrow
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Fig. 1.— Plan of Merchwton School Garden.
References:— A, Rock Plants; b, b, b, General Collection: c. d, e,
Rubiaceae, Dlpsaceae, Valarlanaceae; f. g, Gramlneae, Cyper-
aceae, h, Composltae: i, j, Juncaceae, Llllaceae; k, Umbelll-
ferae; L, M, Irldaceae, Amaryllldaceae; x, o, Caprlfollaceae,
Onagraceae; p, y, Ericaceae, Campanulaceae; R, s. Saxlfraga-
ceae, Rlbes; T, Sediun. 1. 2, 3. Plumbaginaceae. Lythrimi.
Primulaceae; 4, Rosaceae: 5, 6, Convolvulaceae, Solanaceae;
7, Legumlnosae; 8, 9, Chenopodlaceae, Boraglnaceae; 10, 11,
Geraniaceae, Malvaceae; 12, Lablatae; l:i, 14, Caryophyllaceae
Resedaceae; 15, 16. Veronica, Scrophulariaceae; 17. IS, Cruci-
ferae. VIolaceae, 19. 20, 21, Urticaceae. Polygonaceae; Planta-
ginaceae: 22, 23, Ranunculaceae, Papaveracae; u, r, Musemn,
Laboratory, etc.; v, Lawn.
gravel walks between. At one end is a small
collection of rock plants, where alpine rarities
flourish. Last July over 100 out of the 1.50 or
more species ot the gardeu were in bloom.
Although such profusion was highly attractive,
Mr. Mabbott, the Master, considers that sixty to
one hundred plants are quite sufficient tor such
a garden, and that more entails a needless amount
of labor upon those scholars who have been
appointed curators. The points to be gained are,
that there shall be a supply tor class purposes of
the types studied, and also that flowers repre-
senting the various orders shall be forthcoming
at different times of the year.
The last instance of such botanical gardens is
with a high school near Manchester. The aim of
the trustees has been to direct attention to this
branch ot natural science. Botanical excursions
and elementary lectures have formed part of the
summer's work. In this instance, the purpose
of the garden allowed of simpler design and a
less expensive outlay than if it had been desired
merely to convert the half acre of land into an
ornamental garden.
The details of construction were much those of
an ordinary garden. A pond allowed of the cul-
tivation of bog plants. For the botanical ar-
rangement ot beds a levelled piece of land was
sown over with grass seed, and the beds cut out,
according to accompan.vlng plan during the
winter
The purchase of plants for these beds will not
cost more than S.'ii or $40; indeed it is probable
that, for the most part, they will be raised from
seed, or collected.
The simplest and most advantageous form of
garden is that of narrow beds cut out from turf,
or separated b.v walks of gravel, brick-dust, etc
To devote a considerable space to the garden, it
is wisest to sow grass-seed where turf does not
already exist. The beds may be placed in
groups or in regular rows; shrubs and trees
in clumps will add in decorative value.
The plants best suited for the beds are " hardy
perennials." Many of these may be raised from
seed, but it is desirable to introduce a few roots
of the more important plants
The best label is of zinc l-16th inch or less In
thickness. 2'A by 2. The legs are of zinc-wire,
stout, 10 inches long, and soldered to back of
first piece. Face to be covered with thick coat
ot Aspinall's white enamel paint. This, when
dry, to be covered with black enamel paint, in
which, when yet viscid, the name scratched by
means of a blunt point. Larger wooden labels
may also be obtained for the natural orders if
desirable to set in the beds.
H Where the boys or girls can be per-
suaded to take an interest in the tjeds
there should be no difficulty in keeping
the garden tidy at very trifling expense.
Where the boys are taught the ele-
ments of agriculture and gardening, they
noticeably take a greater amount of in-
terest in the results ot their outdoor
lessons than in any other.
Mr. Dyer writes relative to this subject
of school botanical gardens: "My idea is
that a much more real interest is taken
in a school garden if the pupils have a
hand in getting together the plants. The
best way to do this is by collecting the
seeds and raising them. To take advent-
age of outings to the country as occasions
to collect seeds for the school garden
would in itself be a very valuable lesson.
The following is a list of the natural
orders suitable for a smaller school gar-
den. The numbers of species refer to
those that may be taken as representa-
tive types; Ranunculacea?, 20; Composita;.
1.5; LiliaceaN 12; Scrophulariaceiv, 12; Leg-
uminosie, 10; Rosacese, 8; Crucifera», 6;
Caryophllacea?, 6; Papaveracea>, 6; Um-
belliferip, 3; Saxitragacea?, 6; Geraniacea;,
6; Campanulacea?, 6; Primulacete, 6; Ru-
biaceae, 3; Boraginacen?, 2; Labiata", 2;
Polygonacea?, 2; AmaryllidaceiP, 3.
ViolacesB, Resedacea?, Onagrace*, Am-
entacese, Conifera?, Graminea>, and Jun-
cacese, might be represented with ad-
vantage by one or two species. Also
Berberis, Linum, Lythrum, Tamus, Con-
volvulus, and Solanum.
Of the older system, Professor Huxley
at the meeting at the Manchester Town
Hall in 1887, said; "No one can doubt
that this system of primary education
has done wonders, but it has the effect of
being too bookish, too little practical.
The child is brought too little into contact with
actual facts and things, and as the system stands
at present, it constitutes next t« no education
of those particular facul-
ties which are of the ut-
most importance to indus-
trial life. I mean the
faculty of observation,
the faculty of working ac-
curately, of dealing with
things instead ot words."
The study of elementary
botany might he engaged
in by children even of the
youngest years, so long as
this study were made
practical, i. e. so long as
they had placed before
them plants which they
should learn to distinguish
one from another, and
from which they should
learn the uses of the vari-
ous modifications ot roots,
stems, leaves, flowers or
fruits, &c.
The probable interest of
such study of science
would be increased were
the instruction given with
reference to a small botan-
ical garden, where not
merely botanical teaching
might be imparted, but
where the child might be
grounded even in the elements of horticultural
and agricultural knowledge the growth of root
and cereal crops might be shown from a very
small garden. A real respect for the methods
and achievements of scientific men* might be
given; and, each child might be made to feel
that he too, migh become an accurate scientific
observer of Nature.
Doings of the Missouri State
Horticultural Society.
ROBERf T. BAILEY, C.iLLAWAT CO., MO.
Vinegar Making. At the recent meeting
held in Lebanon a paper on "Vinegar as a
by-product of the orchard" was read by
Charles Patterson, bringing to light the fact
that nearly all the vinegar sold is made
from chemical acids. It is sold so low and
looks so clear and nice to the eye that it is
difflcult to get genuine pure cider vinegar
into the market in competition with it. Yet
all of it is marked on the barrels "Pure
Cider Vinegar," " Pure Fruit Vinegar,"
"White Wine Vinegar," or such false label.
Vice-President N. F. Murray found that gro-
cerymen did not like to sell the genuine vinegar,
for when their customers once used it they were
not satisfied to take any thing else. In order to
create a demand you must have a supply suffi-
cient to fill that demand when is created.
Mr. E. T. HoUister thought it would be very
difficult to introduce pure vinegar unless we
pass laws requiring the merchants to sell his
grades for Just what they are.
Mr. Patterson introduced his vinegar into his
town by filling small bottles and leaving one at
every house, telling them where they could get
such vinegar at the stores. The people are more
ready to make the change than the grocers, but
the latter found that it drew buyers to keep the
pure article for their customers. He thought
gain for the horticulturist would be small com-
pared with that of the consuming public in
being saved from the injurious effects of poison-
ous chemicals. Every man that goes to market
with his Jug wants cider vinegar, and he would
go home with it empty were he told that he
could get only acid vinegar.
The legislature was asked to pass a law re-
quiring goods to be sold by their true name.
Traksportation. Mr. Murray thought it of
but little use to grow fruit and let the carrier
have all the profits. He considered this question
of transportation the darkest cloud hanging over
the producers of this country.
Prof. Clark Columbia thought it best to go to
the transportation companies beforehand and
state the case, and make the best terms you can
Sec. Goodman wanted the subject to be con
tinually agitated. Let the local societies pass
resolutions asking for lower rates.
Levi Chubbuck, Sesretary ot the State Board
of Agriculture, said " It is no use to make a
request of railroads unless they can see some-
thing in it for themselves."
The Profits. A paper on the "Profit and
Loss in Orcharding," by Dan. Carpenter, made
30 ,60 ,70 ,80 90 .100
.J
REFERENCE.S:— 2, Rublaceae; 3, Valerianaeeae:
4. Polemonlacea; 5, Gentlanaceae; 6, Dlpsaceae"<
7. Lablatae: 8. Boraglnaceae: 9, Campanulaceae;
10, Primulaceae: II. Vacant; 12, Ericaceae: 13.
Convolvulaceae; 14. Scrophulariaceae: (the large
unnumbered triangular bed In the upper left
hand corner of the plan Is devoted to Compo-
sltae); 16, Legumlnosae: 17, Rosaceae: 18, Coma
ceae: 19, Lythraceae; 20. Onagraceae: 21, Caprlfo.
ilaceae; 23, Araliaceae; 23. Rosaceae- 24. Umbelll-
ferae; '25. Saxlfragaceae; '26, Crassulaceae: 27,
Geraniaceae; 2^. Malvaceae: '29, Chenopodlaceae,
30. Caryophyllaceae; .31. Polygonaceae: 32, Papa'
veraceae, 3;i, Fumarlaceae; 34, Hypericaceae;
35, Cruclferace; 36. VIolaceae 37, Resedaceae: 3S
Ranunculaceaae: 3Vt. Berberidaceae: 40, Gramiuceae; 41, Llllaceae. b. Calyciflorae.
c, Thalamlflorae: D, Monocotyledons: e. Kitchen Garden: f. Border; Janitor's*
Hoube.
Fig. 2— Plan of Dumferllne Hehool Qanlai.
quite a stir. He gave the amount of his expense
on his fruits and the receipts from their sales for
a period of thirteen years showing that the net
annua] profits per acre, allowing interest on the
amount of the investment at eight per cent,
with him had been f2 50.
J. G. Kinder thought that if $2.50 per acre is the
measure of the profit of fruit growing they had
[890.
POPULAR GAPDENING.
115
better dissolve the society and go to raising
Castor Beans, which, he said, paid from $12.00
to Slo per acre.
One man thought the contraction of the cur-
rency was the greatest incubus the producers
have to carry.
C. C. Bell, of Biwnville, had no doubt that Mr.
Carpenter had given a true account of his ex-
perience as a fruit grower. He called attention
to the fact that Mr. Carpenter's own figures
showed that the Apple was the only fruit that
had paid a net profit. He would not advise any
one to grow Grajtes lor wine. The public senti-
ment is against it. Any man, he said, who will
plant the right varieties of Apples in suitable
soil and care for them will make it pay. He ;
believes that the products of an orchard
would pay for the land ever}' year for
ten or twelve .vears. He had bought the
fruit of a 40-acre orchard every year for
six or seven years at prices ranging from
8800 to 81,500 yearly. Tet only a smaU
portion of this orchard was of good market
varieties, the greater part being Hawle's
Genet, which is too small to sell well.
J. C. Evans said that he and Mr. Carpenter
were neighbors. He is by no means a
commercial fruit grower. Four-fifths of
his varieties are utterly worthless. He has
about enough of small fruits to supply
himself and his neighbors. Very little of ^^^.
his fruit goes to market. Notwithstand- •' /
ing all these drawbacks his Apples had
paid a little profit.
Varieties. The discussion of varieties
showed that the Ben Darts was by all odds
considered the most profitable kind to grow. But
there is a strong desire to find an Apple of
better quality than the Ben Davis that shall be
as productive and as profitable,
C. C. Bell, spoke well of the Clayton as a ship-
per, but did not like the very erect growth of
the tree. Others had the same objection.
No one thought the Shannon Pippin of much
value.
The Shackeford is x>erhaps a seedling of the
Ben Davis, which it resembles very much. Mr.
Patterson could hardly distinguish the fruit
from the Ben Da\TS. With him the tree was a
straggling grower like the Little Romanite.
L. A. Goodman found the tree like the Willow
Twig, the fruit like the Ben Davis, as large or
even larger.
The Mammoth BlackTwig was but little known,
and not thought as desirable as Clayton by Mr.
Bell who had bought it in northern Arkansas.
Pres. Evans found it a good keeper.
The Arkansas Black was reported verj' favor-
ably from the northern part of Arkansas where
it came from. It is a beautiful, dark red Apple
resembling the Jonathan, a good keeper with
ordinarj- care till May.
A letter was read from J. C. Plumb of Wis-
consin asking what Apple would supercede the
Ben Davis. The Gano was named, but the dis-
cussion showed that it was superior to the Ben
Davis only in color. The quality is so much
alike they could not be distinguished by taste.
The York Imperial was well spoken of. It is
productive and keeps well.
The Minkler and some new seedlings of the
same type were said to be among the best known
for southwest Missouri. Mr. Wild thought the
Minkler would not be as profitable as the Little
Romanite, as it is slower in bearing. He thought
the Langford better.
The Yellow Transparent was found to blight
badly by A. Ambrose of Vernon Co. Mr. Wild,
of Jasper, found it very good as to size, and a
few days earlier than the Early Harvest. It did
not blight with him worse than the Red June.
Raspberries. The papers and discussion on
this fruit showed that there was a strong feeling
in favor of dropping all Red Raspberries for
profit. Mr. Patterson had picked them in the
morning and had them comeback on him spoiled
in the evening. With him Souhegan, Mammoth
Cluster, and Gregg were good kinds. Mr. Hollis-
ter, a commission merchant, of St Louis, was
loth to vote the red Raspberry out of existence.
He had shipped Turner berriesgrown insouthem
Illinois, successfully to Denver. They were
packed in-shallow pint boxes.
Mr. Goodman thought there must be some-
thing in Illinois soil peculiarly favorable to the
Red Raspberry. He had never been able to ship
them half-way from Kansas City to Denver.
The Schafler was praised by some, and con-
demned by others. Some sold it higher than
other kinds; others couldn't sell it at all. Prof ■
John W. riiirk, of (.'ohimbia considered it the
poorest they had. In a small way it has always
been in demand with the writer.
Strawberries. The Strawberry report of
that veteran horticulturist. Samuel Miller, was
instructive and interesting. He planted last
year mostly of Bubach and Gandy.
G. W Hopkins, of Springfield had made more
money from Windsor Chief than from any other.
The Bubach was fine. The Jessie was frost-bitten.
Blackberries. The Kittatiny seemed to be
the favorite Blackberry. Early Harvest had few
friends. E. A. Riehl of Illinois, succeeded in
growing fine fruit on the Snyder by pinching
twice in the summer; first when the canes are
about two feet high, second when the laterals
PLANTING YOUNG CARNATIONS.
have made a growth of six to twelve inches,
thus inducing the growth of a secondary set of
small branches. With him the Early Harvest is
worthless. TheErie closely resembles the Lawton.
President Evans approved what Mr. Riehl said
of the Snyder. He also found the Taylor a
good variety.
Missouri Fbcits Ahead. Mr. A. Nelson of
Lebanon, Mo., a former York State man, told of
his success in collecting a car load of fruit and
farm products in southwest Missouri and taking
them to the Buffalo, N. Y. Exhibition. He
made this strong statement; "I can sa.v, with-
out fear of contradiction, that the poorest
samples of Missouri Apples I had, equalled in
ever.v particular the best samples from the four
or five eastern states which had fruit at that
e.xhibition." After this fruit had been shown at
Buffalo he carried some of it to the Inter-State
Fair, Elmira where its beautj' excited much ad-
miration.
Peacbthisxing. Mr. Gano, gave his exper-
ience in thinning and shipping 100,000 boxes of
Peaches. His men thinned from 100 to 1.50 trees
each, per day. It was not half the work that
might be imagined. He left the Peaches from
four to six inches apart on the twigs. Mr. Riehl
went farther and said that it is less work to thin
fruit than it is not to thin it. It is cheaper to
thin the fruit and drop the surplus on the ground
than it is to cull and assort it after it is picked.
He thought Apples could be thinned by pruning.
He thins when the Peaches are about the size
of marbles or Hickory nuts, and keeps the
center of his trees well open so as to preserve
the small fruiting twigs all along the length of
the main branches Trees must be pruned every
year to keep these small twigs in the center.
As an illustration of the benefits of thinning
Peaches E. HoUister told of Peaches that Dr.
Huil of IlUnois thinned his fruit, and sold his
Peaches for %\:& per peck basket while his
neighbors who did not thin sold theirs for 81.75
per bushel.
CONDENSED GLEANINGS.
Eed Cedar FeDcil-Wood. The manufacture of
this has for years been almost exclusively con-
fined to Florida, where this tree grows to a large
size and in great perfection. The business has
been in the hands of a large foreign house, which
supplies a good part of the world with lead
pencils, and has been profitable. Large Cedar
timber, straight grained and of a suitable quality
for pencil stuff, has become scarce in Florida
and factories are springing up in different parts
of the south, especially in Alabama, where, at
Gurley, sawing pencil stuff is already a consider-
able industry. The best Red Cedar, however,
now left will be found near the Red River, in
Texas, and in the Indian Territory, where this
tree attains a greater size than it reaches in
Florida, while the quality of the lumber is not,
probably, in any way inferior. The world has
become so accustomed to using pencils made of
Red Cedar, that it will not readily adapt itself to
any others. The supply of this lumber of suit-
able qualit.v, however, is not large in proportion
to the demand, and cannot hold out many years
longer. The Red Cedar is the most widely dis-
tributed of North American Conifers, and in
some parts of the country it is one of the most
common trees; but it is in a few favored locali-
ties only that it grows in a way to produce the
straight-grained material essential for pencil-
making. The distillation of oil of Cedar, for
which there is now a large 'commercial demand,
from the sawdust and other refuse, has been
profitable in the pencil mills of Cedar Keys,
Florida, and might be carried on to advantage
in other parts of the countrj-. It can be
made, of course, from wood of the poorest
quality.— Garden and Forest.
Bean Cleaning Device. The cut plainly
shows how the frame or rack that the
screen swings on is made. There should be
one- fourth inch between screen and stand-
ards, so it will work without friction. The
standards may be 2 x 3 at base and 2 x 2 at
top, or other convenient size; the rack four
and a half feet long and boards 1 x 4 or 5
inches all nailed on as in cut. Rear parts
should be six and a half feet long, and the
front ones should be left long until screen
is hung in right place. The screen should
be high enough to allow a person to stand
up and look the Beans over as the pass by.
It is hung on good strong Xo. 8 or 9 wire 20
Inches long, after a loop is made in each
end, and should extend four inches
farther beyond the rear posts than beyond the
front ones. Put down good steel wire nails
through bed pieces of screen, close to side piece
clinched on the under side, and bent over on
the upper side to form a hook for lower ends of
wires ; and same kind of nails, driven in proper
place near top of standards to support upper
ends of wires. Put strips of lath along the sides,
on a slant, to keep the Beans on the wire cloth,
five meshes to the inch for Xavy Beans, larger
mesh for larger Beans. The incline of the screen
should not be so great as to allow the Beans to
move of themselves. Allowing ten or twelve
inches for swing, nail blocks on the outside of
screen, back of and so they will strike the posts
as the screen operates. This keeps the Beans
mortng and prevents clogging. An upright
handle can be fastened on the side of screen.
Beqoisites for Unshrooma- This toothsome
esculent cannot be raised artificially with the
same favorable and sure issue as can our veget-
ables from seeds. Everyone should bear in
mind a few general principles and govern his
work by what they suggest. Mushrooms do not
prefer a warm atmosphere, but they enjoy a
warm bed to grow in. While an excess of
water is injurious, the soil must not dry out.
In short, I take the fresh droppings from the
stable, throw them in a heap, and turn daily
until the rank heat and steam has passed away.
The mass is then made mto a compact bed m a
cool atmosphere, beaten firm with the back of a
fork, and when it shows a mild heat the spawn,
broken to pieces the size of a Walnut, is mserted
a few inches apart, and say two inches of light
loam is placed over the surface. There is no
use to be impatient or tr.v to hurry the operation.
Mushrooms will not appear for several weeks;
but meantime it is well to sprinkle any dry spots
that show themselves, and this is all that can be
done. Darkness is preferable, so that a cool
cellar is well adapted for them.— X. X. Tribune.
Planting Young Carnations. Well rooted Car-
nation cutting when potted or boxed off will
make at once strong vigorous plants, while those
with very small roots, even if quite healthy,
take long to start as they become hard. Every
young plant should be planted deep and firm
enough to enable it to maintain a perpendicular
position throughout the season. The plant at
the left in illustration represents a j'oung plant
put firmly in the ground, and deep enough to be
safe from any influence which might affect its
stability. It will go right along without stopping
if we keep the conditions right for its growth.
The figure at the right shows a young plant
which has been carelessly potted in the first place
and when planted outside, was planted so near
the surface that the first puff' of wind sent it
over to one side, ready for a wind from opposite
direction to send it back again. Under such cir-
cumstances we can scarcely expect a plant to
amount to very much.— American Florist.
ii6
POPULAR GARDENING.
February,
Tnberons-Booted Begonias. Perhaps the
finest collection on the coast is at Capt. Ains-
worth's, near N. Temescal. Mr. John MeCullum,
who has charge of the grounds, several years
ago secured from England the finest strains of
seed and named rarities; from these many beau-
tiful hybrids have been produced, notably
among the whites and yellows, which have not
previously been so well-developed as the scarlets
and pinks. The plants will bloom the first year
from seed if given proper care; hybridizing is
easily performed, and the bulbs keep without
trouble after the blooming season.- P. R. Press.
Drainage, Take no risks; draining is too
expensive a job to be done imperfectly. Do not
leave trees growing along the line of a drain if
you can possibly avoid it. Two years ago my
garden drain became stopped, and on making an
examination I found that the roots of an Elm
tree which it passed had entered the tile and
completly choked them. As the tree was valued
for shade, I took up the tile and substituted
glazed sewer pipe and cemented the joints, and
hope this will enable me to save the tree and keep
the drain clear.— WaldoF.Brown in Ohio Farmer.
Many-colored Chrysanthemum, One of the
interesting objects at the late exposition of
Chrysanthemums in this city was a plant upon
which some twenty different varieties had been
grafted. The different kinds of flowers were all
in bloom at once and having been arranged on
the stalk with every view to harmonize and con-
trast of color, the plant resembles a large
bouquet.— Weekly Press.
A New Jersey Kalamazoo. It is said a com-
pany of capitalists have engaged a colony of
Celery-growers of Kalamazoo to go to Hacketts-
town, X. J , next spring, and engage in raising
Celery on a tract of land called the Great
Meadows, on which Onion-growing has been
unsuccessfully tried, and Celery culture has also
been attempted, but not being properly handled,
was a failure.— Mich. Farmer.
Training Tomatoes. In a family garden I
hare always found training a Tomato plant to a
single stem, up an eight-foot stake, firmly set
before planting, highly satisfactory, and, on the
whole, no more troublesome than the let-lie
course; while it economizes room, it secures
handsomer, better-flavored fruit, and more of it
and pleases by its tidiness and its success as an
art.— Blairco in X. Y. Tribune.
Ombbing out Old Trees. Make a circular
excavation from six to eight feet in diameter
around the tree, dig the dirt away from the
roots and cut these off the trunk and again at
the outer edge of the excavation. Then the
roots ai-e out of the way, and when they are all
cut off, the tree wUl fall. A large tree can be
grubbed out in two hours in this way.— W. Rural.
Starting Early Cabbages. We long ago
abandoned the practice of sowing seed in
autumn, and now start our seed February 1 in
Mean Cleaning DexHce. See page 113.
boxes in a greenhouse or hotbed and transplant
to other boxes as soon as large enough to handle,
placing the boxes in cold frames to harden them
off.— W. F. Massey in Weekly Press.
Thin Early. Most amateurs giow their vegetables
too elcsply. So they are not only much smalier, but
also Inferior In quality. Those who desire pood Beets.
Turnips, Parsnips and Carrots should thin thoroughly.
— T. H. Hosktns In Ani. Garden.
Buying FertilizinK Materials. The force of the
argument on the side of home-mixed fertilizers en-
tirely ontwelghs all the objections.— Connecticut Ex-
periment Station Report.
Strawberry Cure. Of all "cures" Invented, give me
the Strawberry cure. There is little question that
other people will l>e benefited, just as I am.— Gleanings
In Bee Culture.
Mice in Orchard. Soak some nubbins In strychnine
and lay them under sheaves of com fodder at differ
ent points about the orchard.— Farm Journal.
Value of Grass Hoots. The roots and stubble on a
mowing field— turned in— have a manurial value of at
least 812.— Piof. Phelps.
There is something to care for in all weathers, and
the busy life is a happy one.
Better to grow into a specialty than to go Into It.
Vegetable Products on Table.
Succotash. Boil one part of dry Lima Beans
and two parts of dried Sweet Corn seperately
until both are nearly tender. Then put them
together and simmer gently until done. Season
with salt and sweet cream.— Western Rural.
Farm Journal Hints. Cranberries will keep
all winter in water. Potatoes are 'more whole-
some when baked than when boiled. Never put
Potatoes on the table in a covered dish. They
absorb their own moisture and become sogg.v.
Sagout of Onions. Cut a couple of bunches of
young Onions in slices: add double the quantity
of Potatoes, peeled and sliced; season with salt
and pepper, and cover with broth of any kind;
simmer until the Potatoes are done; add a table-
spoonful of butter, and eat very hot.— Am. Ag.
Pickled Ttirnips, Scald enough vinegar to
cover them, with some whole Spice, pour it over
them, and let them cool before using them; Car-
rots. Cauliflower, Beets, Jerusalem Artichokes,
Cabbage, Beans, in fact nearly all cold boiled
vegetables, can be made into pickles in this way.
—House-wife.
Orange Jelly. Cover one box of gelatine with
one pint of cold water and let it soak one hour;
add one pint of boiling water and one pound of
sugar-. Stir until the sugar is dissolred, then add
one pint of Orange juice, strain, and turn into
molds to harden. This should stand at least
twelre hours.- E.x.
Browned Ttirnips. For a good accompaniment
to roast duck, pare and slice the Turnips and boil
till tender, then di-ain in a colander. Put two
tablespoonfuls of butter in a frying pan; when
hot add the Turnips and a tablespoonful of
sugar; when the slices are nice and brown turn
carefully, dust with salt and pepper, and serre.
—Indiana Farmer.
Sweet Potato Pie. Line a pie plate with nice
pastry. Hare some boiled Sweet Potatoes, peel
and slice them lengthwise orer the pastry, then
put a layer of sugar, nutmeg and butter, then
another layer of each till the dish is filled, mak-
ing the last layer of sugar, etc. Fill with cream
and bake. Eat warm. Should any be left orer,
warm by adding more cream and butter before
putting in the oren.— Farm Journal.
Stewed Carrots. Take si.\ large Carrots, wash
and scrape them, put them into boiling water
and let them boil for half an hour, then take out,
drain, and cut each into as many round balls as
it will make, put them into the stew pan with a
pint of grary, flavored with a little Pepper, Salt,
and Mushroom catsup; let them simmer for
twenty minutes, then take them out, pile them
in the center of the dish, thicken the gravy with
a little flour and butter, pour it over the Carrots,
and serve.— Cthio Farmer.
Apple Sago Pudding. Pare six large tart
-Apples; remove the cores; All the holes thus
made with sugar and a little ground Cinnamon,
and stick a few (loves into each Apple. Place
upright in a deeij pudding dish. Over six large
spoonfuls of sago pour two cupfuls of boiling
water, stiiTing continually until it begins to
thicken. Cover and let stand about two hours;
then pour into the dish containing the Apples,
and bake in moderate oven for two hours. Serve
with cream and sugar.— Country Gentleman.
Carrots Stewed in Cream, One good-sized Car-
rot sliced thin and cooked tender in boiling water
well salted. Drain well. Slelt a piece of butter
the size of a large Walnut in an enameled sauce-
pan; add one table-spoonful of flour and a very
little cream from a pint, just enough to cook
into a soft, creamy mass; gradually pour in the
remainder of the cream and allow it to boil a
moment. It it should prove thicker than good
rich cream, through false measurement, add a
very little milk; pour over the Carrot and serve
hot.— Good Housekeeping.
Apple Slump. One quart of sifted flour with
three teaspoonfuls baking powder; shorten with
one tablespoonful butter nibbed into the flour.
Mix with cold milk or water, the same as for bis-
cuit. Put two quarts of pared, sliced or quarter-
ed Apples with one pint of water into the dish.
Roll the crust about an inch thick, cut into
quarter, and with it cover the .Apples in the dish;
then cover the whole with a close fitting cover.
and boil or steam till done. Take out on a plat-
ter, and grate Xutmeg over the Apple. Serve
with sweet sauce, or sugar and cream.— Xew
England Farmer.
Banana Custard. Dissolre two tablespoonfuls
of Cornstarch i n t wo tablespoonfuls of cold water
and one cup of sugar and two ounces of butter;
stir together in a stew-pan long enough to cook
the Com starch until smooth; pour on gradually,
stirring all the while, a quart of boiling water.
Remore from the fire and add the beaten yolks of
three eggs; return to the fire and stir until thick.
When cold stir a pint bowlful of thinly-sliced
Bananas, and pour all into a prett.v china or glass
dish. Cover with a meringue of the whites
beaten to a stiff froth with half a cup of powder-
ed sugar and the juice of half a Lemon, and heap
on top of the custard.— American Agriculturist.
HOUSE PLANTS
Airing should be strictly attended to whenever the
weather I? mild. Perhaps the best way of giving
window plants the needed ventilation is by opening
the windows of an adjoining room. A vessel of water
may be kept on the back of the stove. The evapora-
tion will tend to keep the air in the room moist and
favorable to the health and thrift of the plants.
Begonias should now be blooming freely. Only a
moderate amount of water is needed for them.
Balbs may be brought In from cellar or pit for suc-
cession. As window plants they do their best now.
As hxilbs pass out of flower cut away the flower stalks.
Camellias need free airing, in all suiuibte weather,
guarding against cold droughts. Sponge the leaves on
both sides frequently.
Callas and other hardy forcing bulbs should have
plenty of water.
Cyclamen Persicam are now blooming. When past
stand them back a little from the front in the window
to give other plants in bloom a better chance, but don't
dry off the tubers at once. As long as the foliage con-
tinues plump and fresh continue to give a little water.
Fuchsias at rest may be started. After strong
growth is made slips may be taken olT and root«d.
Old plants will do best If cut back and grown In bush
form. Keep in good growth, and guard against the
plants becoming pot-bound.
General Management. Increased sunlight brings
increased growth and bloom, and less tendency to rot
and mould. Give the plants a little more water than
they were accustomed to get diu-Ing the past few
weeks, but particularly avoid rendering the soil very
wet. Once a week at least tiu-n the plants in the
window so that they shall be equal-sided. Nip the
points out of the young growths on plants that are in
thrifty growth to cause them to become bushy. While
it is not advisable to wash the foliage of soft or pubes-
cent-leaved plants, a light sprinkling or dewing over-
head early in the forenoon or early in the afternoon
helps and freshens them materially. Besides, this
sprinkling of the foliage and bark induces the produc-
thin of more oifsets or side branches, and thus renders
the plants much stockier. But don't sprinkle your
plants overhead while the sun is shining warmly on
them, else the leaves are apt to get ' "scalded," nor so
late In the afternoon that they will not dry perfectly
before night, else flower buds, young leaves and shoots
may mould or rot off.
Heliotrope slips may now be struck for fine summer
plants. lie-pot old plants as needed.
Hyacinths In glasses must have the water kept
properly replenished. Tie up when In flower. See
also under " Bulbs."
Ivy and other stiff, smooth-leaved plants to be
sponged otf to give them a fresh, bright appearance.
Oleanders may be started up now, if desired for
flowering in Slay. As growth begins, give plenty of
water and some liquid manure.
Pruning soft wooded plants can hardly be overdone
for secuiing good shape. The bushy forms springing
from the ground are handsome and attractive. The
long-legged spindling things one sees so often are an
abomination.
Roses ot the monthly class like a good sunny posi-
tion, but should not be kept too warm. Guard against
greenfly. Start up the Hybrid Perpetuals that were
potted in the fall and thus wintered, and when buds
appear, stimiUate by li<(uld mauinre.
So-wing Seed. Sow Sweet Alyssum for a continuous
supply, other annuals and biennials, Snapdragon,
Chinese Pinks. MImulus. Slaurandia, Ice Plant, etc.,
si: j'.''d now be so".\'n to get good plants for spring and
smnmer, and by end of mouth most other annuals for
early bloom.
iSgo.
POPULAR GARDENING.
117
LAWN AND FLOWER GARDEN.
Bedding Plants. Make your estlmaU" of what wfll
be ueedea In this line, anil provide for It early by
growing the desired subjeets, or making earlj- eon-
tracts with llorlsls to supply what Is needed.
Mice often do great daniace by girdling trees and
htHlge plants under the snowline. Tramp down the
snow s«x>n after every fre^h fall.
Manure, well-composted and free from weed seeds,
may be drawn out on the lawu. beds and borders
while the ground Is fiozeu.
Pruninsf. Shrubs may be pruned with a view to
preserve their natural habit. Never bring them into
a formal shape unless grown for hedges. The class
including Roses, Hai-dy Hydrangea, Burning Bush,
Coronilla. Amorpha, Hypericum. Altbi^as. Late-flower-
ing Spineas and others that bear their bloom on the
new growth of the season, may now be cut back quite
severely with good results. Almost ail other shrubs.
however, produce their flowers from buds on the old
wood, and severe pruning would only result in pruning
away so many tlowers. With these subjects cut no
more than to improve the genera! shape and leave
most of the pruning until just after the blooming
season, some months further along. Hedges of decid-
uous kinds should be given their annual trimming
during mild weather.
Plans. Before out-door activity begins, the main
operations to be caTied out the coming season, needed
important changes, etc., should be well considered,
and perfect plans mapped out. This is work that can
be done to much better advautiige, and with greater
ease and thoroughness now than when the out-door
work begins to crowd upon our attention and efforts.
Reqnlsites. Buy or otherwise provide for labels,
stakes and other requisites needed for the lawn and
flower beds
Seed Sowing. At the south all hardier annuals may
be sown out doors this month. Where early plants
for summer bedding are desired at the north, annuals
such as Balsams, Cockscombs, Globe Amaranths, Port-
ulaccas. Phloxes, Brachycomes, Stocks, Tropreolimis,
Cob£eas and kinds named under " House Plants " may
be started under glass.
PLANT CULTURE UNDER GLASS.
Carnations for next winter's flowering should now
be struck from cuttings . Keep the young plants
thrifty by free airing. Re-stake flowering plants that
may need it.
Daisies, Pansies, Polyanthuses and other spring-
flowering plants if kept in cold frames should have
careful attention now. Be particular about the sashes
not leaking, also that no rain or snow water can get
into the frame around its sides, and have it pretty well
banked around to keep out the cold. Little frosts may
not hurt these plants but it doesn't do them any good,
and it certainly checks their blooming.
Butch Bulbs. See Bulbs, also Hyacinths, under
" House Plants."
Earth wronns now become more troublesome. Caus-
tic lime water is a perfect remedy. Soak the soil
thoroughly w^th it about once a month.
Insects increase rapidly with increasing plant
growth. Regular fumigation in the greenhouse by
burning Tobacco stems, or other cheap forms of To-
bacco, will keep the aphis in complete subjection. An
infusion, about the color of tea. may also be freely
sprinkled on eflected plants, which should afterwards
be showered abundantly with clear water. Faithful
hand picking and frequent showering, as well as wash-
ing the leaves of J\'y and other smooth-leaved plants,
will do much towards keeping all in a healthy condi-
tion. Spraying daily for red spider and other Insects in
houses of high heat must not'be neglected. Hand-
pieklng, washing and brushing are the best remedies
for scale and mealy bug.
Gloxinias. Do not be overanxious to start these
and other plants, Amaryllises, Tuberous- rooted Be-
gonias, etc.. before they have had their full season of
rest, and show an inclination to start to grow again.
Mignonette may now be started from seed to a good
purpose. They will make nice plants and become very
acceptable for window and conservatory decoration by
the time mild weather sets in.
Orchids that begin to grow during the time they are
in flower may be shifted as soon as done blooming.
Aerides, Vandas, Sacolabiums, Dendrobes, Ctelogynes
and several other genera do best in Sphagniun with
small crocks or sharp sand. Cattleyas. Ltelias. Oncidi-
ums do equally well in peat mixed with croks and a
few bits of charcoal; whilst some do best in a mixture
of peat and moss.
Primroses. As the common Chinese sorts go out of
bloom, throw them away. It is much better to raise
a fresh lot from seed every year than to bother keeping
over a lot of old plants. Save double-flowering ones
that you wish to keep. For seed keep over one or two
plants of your best sorts and grow them in a light but
not stinny exposure, and with a fine camel's-halr brush
artificially fertilize the flowers, else the seed cup w^ll
be a poor one. Do not expose to warm sunshine.
Rose Propagation. No better season for it than
from now on. Use cuttings from the best aud strong-
est wood of recent growth. Never from the time the
cutting is put in, until the yoimg plant is fit to
set <^ut. allow it to suffer for want of water. For*
g<Hid plants it is absolutely necessary to keep them in
coutiuuous health.^ growth. j
Salvia splendens needs ample root-room, and a cool
temperature at this season. Keep the plants In good
growth all the time.
Verbenas like fresh, sweet soils. Shake them out,
and repot when the need of it Is shown by their ceas-
ing to grow. Keep near the glass, giving plenty of air.
FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD.
Caterpillars. When spraying with arsenical poisons
is odiipted as a regular practice, little danger Is to be
feared from leaf-eating insects. Where this is not
done, the eggs of tent caterpillar, etc., which can be
readily detected by an observant eye near the ends of
twigs where usually deposited, should be carefully
looked up and removed.
General Management. Saw off the stubs left by
broken branches, and cover the wounds with thick
paint or melted grafting wax. Cut cions, if not already
done. Young trees need protecting from mice and
rabbits. Consider If it will be profitable to plant more
trees, shrubs, or vines. Make a list of what is needed,
and order early. Scraping the moss and old dead bark
off, and washing the bodies with some alkaline liquid
can always be recommended on general principles.
Gooseberries and Currants. Prune on mild days
where needed. Apply a few shovelfuls of good manure
to each bush .
Grapes. Repair trellises where rifeeded. Painting
the wooden work will usually pay weU. Prune vines
neglected until now.
Manure. Don't expect good fruit and plenty of it
unless the trees and bushes are well fed. Top-dress
the orchard and small-fruit patches, and keep weedy
manure out of the Strawberry beds.
Record of Varieties. Such can best be kept in shape
of a complete map of the orchard and fruit patches,
drawn on stiff heavy paper for permanent use. Mark
every tree, and every row of small fruits or Grapes,
and write in the name of the variety. Then if the
labels on trees, shrubs or plants be lost, you can easily
trace up the name of variety.
Strawberries. Heavy winds are liable to blow the
mulch off pKrts of the patch, and thus expose the
plants to injury by cold and heaving. Examine the
beds frequently, and replace the mulch where needed.
possible, avoiding cold draugiits. Stop side shoots at
second joint, aud attend to proper fertilization of the
fruit blossoms. Prepare beds, and sow for later crops.
Grapes. The late houses to be kept as cool as possi-
ble by airing freely in all suitable weather. Houses
just started to be given a temperature of 50', gradually
Increasing as growth commences. Vines In flower
require strict attention to avoid dampness which
would prevent fruit setting. In the earlier houses the
fruit should be thinned as soon &3 the berries are the
size of small Peas.
Nectarines. Keep houses cool by airing freely.
Prune aud tie up. Paint larger branches with soap
and sulphur. Fertilize the flowers careful Ij'.
Parsley growing in boxes or in cold frames may be
given liquid maniu"e frequently.
Peaches. Treat like Nectarines.
Strawberries. Give liquid manure at times tmtll
the fruit shows indications of ripening, when It should
be withheld, and the fruit exposed to heat and light
as much as possible. Start plants for successional crops.
«##;^>-A
VEGETABLE GARDEN.
Asparagus. A dressing of well composted stable
manure, or of some good high-grade complete ma-
nure, will come acceptable. Salt, at the rate of about
two pounds to the square yard, is often recommended,
but while it does no harm it is by no means sure
whether its application is followed by positive bene-
ficial results. Expect none near the seacoast.
Catalogues of seedsmen at once to be sent for, and
thoroughly examined. Make out a list of seeds need-
ed, and order early.
Cold Frames need strictest attention, especially
duripg clear, warm weather. Air freely, and harden
off wintered plants to get them ready for setting in
oi)eu ground.
Hotbeds. A leading feature is to have the manure
evenly distributed and well tramped
down, so there will be no depression
in center. See illustration.
Lettuce, Radishes and other early
vegetables usually sell well in manu-
facturing towns, but the grower must
take them to market himself. Study
the wants of your local market, and
sow and plant to meet the demand.
Manure is the foundation of a good„,^°„/g t'venty di
garden. Accumulate, buy and get in
readiness all that may be needed. Guard against
leaching or firefang in stock now on hand. Order what
commercial fertilizers may be required.
Mice and Moles where troublesome in hot beds and
cold frames, should be caught in traps or otherwise
got rid of.
Planting. At the south all hardy early vegetables
may be planted, also Potatoes, Asparagus beds. Rhu-
barb, and Horse Radish plantations may be got in
readiness for cropping. The most successful garden-
ers never hesitate to take some risks In early planting.
Rhubarb. If desired early, a few plants may be
covered by boxes or kegs, and fermenting horse-
manure piled on pretty thick on these.
Salsify and Parsnips to be dug as soon as the ground
thaws.
Seeds, Examine the stock on hand, and prociu-e
what else is needed. If this is delayed much incon-
venience, delayed planting, etc., maybe the result.
Vegetable Cellars. Keep as cool as possible by
airing freely in suitable weather. Clear out rubbish.
THE POULTRY YARD.
Charcoal for the Fowls. Charcoal is much
appreciated by them. The best is formed of
charred grain. I'orn roasted like Coffee and fed
twice a week would no doubt pay for the trouble.
— Rural Canadian.
Feeding Cabbage. Place a head of Cabbage
in the poultry yard and the hens will know how
to use it. Cabbage makes an excellent addition
to the ordinary dry food, and is highly relished
by all classes of poultry, especially at this season,
when green food is not readily obtained.
Vegetable Food, Cook up Turnips and mix
with bran and meal, and then lookout for the
egsrs. If you have any Corn fodder to spare cut
up a lot in short lengths and spread over the
poultry house floor. Among this throw the
grain ;'it will get the fowls to scratching.— Ex.
Force of Habit. Hens are not always hungry
because they follow the feed box, for they will
run to a person carrying a pan of Corn, merely
because they have been accustomed to be thus
fed. An unexperienced person is apt to feed
them when he sees them apparently so eager for
food. Feed only as much as they will eat up
clean at certain hours, to prevent their getting
too fat for egg laying.
Pea Fowls. Of the common peacock, original-
ly from India, Malabar and Ceylon, there are
several varieties, among which are the common,
white and parti-colored The Japanese peacock
from India diifers from the common species in
the blue color and the metallic reflections of the
neck, while the gi-een-necked peafowl, from
Cochin China and the Indian Archipelago, is
distinguished by the neck being of a gieen color.
Feeding for £gg9. Id feeding our breeders we
aim to get eggs that will hatch chickens with a
strong constitution and good qualities, while in
feeding layers we want eggs, and only eggs,
whether they will hatch or not. To this end we
keep only pullets of last year's hatch and feed
all they will eat of rich food, constantly growing
richer. If they flag, we give a stimulant to im-
part to them a fresh start. Red jicpper is the cheap-
FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER
GLASS.
Asparagus should be freely aired whenever possible.
To Insure tender shots, malntaiu rapid growth by
close attention to proper heat, ventilation and water-
ing. Start roots Into growth for succession.
Cucumbers. Maintain a temperatm-e of 65'' or 70^
by night, and Tif to SS"' by day. Give air whenever
(Mirf tpcU made: thejirst witlioiit regard to having the
stributed and firmed, causing settling into a bad shape
est and herhaps the best thing for the purpose
Feeding in Winter, The food is usually in
such concentrated form that the fowls can fill
their crops in a few minutes. Then they stand
moping in the cold or return to their perch for
greater warmth. If fattening be the object this
is well enough ; liut it gives small chance for the
healthful thrift necessary for egg production.
The feeder who always makes his hens scratch
for their living gets the most eggs. Feed small
grains, Oats or Wheat, and throw this among so
much finely cut sti-aw that they will pick but
one grain at a time. The health and prolificacy
of barnvard fowls that depend on the manure
heap for their living is due to the fact that they
have to earn what they eat before they get it-
American Cultivator.
General Uanagement. Wheat and Oats should
be given alternately- Oats always dry ; Wheat
either dry or cooked, I have invariably had
good results from feeding sound Wheat boiled
to bursting. A moderate dose of sulphur given
twice a week serves as a laxative and blood puri-
fier. Season all soft food with a pinch of salt.
A small quantity of flaxseed meal mixed with
their morning ration is also strongly advised. It
makes their plumage bright and glossy, and
deepens the color of their combs and earlobes.
Pronde a plentiful supply of grit or sharp
gravel. Keep feeding-troughs and drinking- ves-
sels clean and wholesome. Make a number of
nice new nests, for hens thus cared for will pay
for the trouble by heaping your egg-baskets
when the market is at its best.— Canadian.
tt8
POPULAR GARDENING.
Fkbruary,
Correspondent 8 are urged to anticipate the seaBon in pre-
senting queationa. To ask, for tnatance, on April 15 or id
what Peas had beat be sown, could bring no answer in
the May iaaue, and none be/ore June, tchen the answer
would Be unseasonable. Questions received before the I2th
of any month stand a good ohance of being answered in the
MXt paper. Not more than three questions should be sent
at one time. Answers to questions bearing on the com-
parative t<alue of implements, etc., offered by different
dealers must not be expected. Neither can we promise to
comply with the request sometimes made to "please answer
by mail," Inquinea appearing without name belong to the
name next following.
Replies to Inquiries are earnestly requested from our
readers. In anauxring aueh give the number, your
looality and name, the latter not for publication, unless
you desire. Write only on one side of the paper.
1,6:SX Mildew in Pit. Plants stored In pit are being
destroyed by mildew or rot. Those left are simply
branches with a number of smallleaves which often
rot before fully developed.— J. L. J., Brooklyn, N. T.
1,631. Rust on Verbenas. How remedied or pre.
vented?— S. C. O., Michigan.
1,632 Celery for Market. Have little experience In
growing Celery. How should I proceed?— Subscriber.
1.633. Queer Behavior of Peaches. Fruit on one
of my trees stopped growth when size of marbles; two
or three months after began to grow again and came to
full size, but too late to ripen. Tree apparently healthy,
W. W. R.. Toronto, Ont.
1.634. Wood and Goal Ashes. What is the differ-
ence in their value? Are the latter worth haulJug four
miles for small fruits and orchard trees?— F. R. W.,
Dayton, Tenn.
1.635. Shrubs for Wisconsin. Are Allanthus, Rosa
canlna, and Weeping Florida Dogwood hardy here? If
so where obtained?— J. L. J., Fort Howard, Wis.
1,6:36. Volunteer Tomato. How does It compare with
Dwarf Champion in regard to earliness?— J. McP.,
Morriston, Iowa.
1.637. Dwarf Pear Orchard. Can Pears be grown
for market on dwarf trees with profit?— F. J., Lisbon,
Mich.
1.638. Deutzia gracilis. How to be treated for win-
ter forcing?- R. N.. Dayton, O.
1.639. Plants for Rockery. Give list of plants sulta
ble for this purpose.— W. F. S,, Chicago, III.
1.640. Boad Scrapings. Are they good for potting
soil?— Sub., City.
1.641. Quinces Near Ditch. Would you advise set-
ting Quluce trees along the bank of a deep ditch through
low land?— J. K. L., Pemsgrove. N. J.
1.642. Grafting Cherries. Can Morello be grafted on
common stock or how Is it propagated?— D. F., Peeks-
kill-on-Hudson, N. T.
1.643. Caterpillars on Pecan Trees. Our Immense
two trees for past two years have been covered with a
grayish caterplllar,eating leaves and destroying young
nuts. What can be doue?- S. S. J., Augusta, Ga.
1.644. Growing Spinach Seed. How done, and how
many pounds per ace are considered a good yield?—
H. G. W., Ehn Grove, W. Va.
1.645. Pear Tree Not Fruiting. My large Seckel
has ceased to bear for two years. Is It bark bound
and if so. would a wash of potash water help it?
1.646. yard for Hens. How large should it be for 12
or 15 hens? How high the fence to keep them in?—
F. N. S., Meriden, Conn.
1.647. Orange Potato. What Potato Is of Orange
color outside and Inside? Where can it be obtained?—
P. B., Mt. Carmel. III.
1,648 Numbering Forceps. Can they be obtained
in this country, and where? F.M., Peterborough, Ont^
1.649. Curculio-Proof Plums. Are the Spaulding
and Abundance euroullo pronf as claimed?
1.650. Golden Beanty Plum. Is this the same as
Coe's Golden Drop? If not, where can It obtained?—
T. S. G.. Dallas, W. Va.
1.651. Plants Damping Off. Tomato and Cabbage
plants started nicely, but .'^oon began to rot off just
above the ground. What is the cause and remedy?-
E. C. S.. Covington, Pa.
1.652. Wine Making. Please name best work on
Grape wine making.— Vine, Thorold, Ont.
I,fi5:i. Early Blackberries. What variety Is best for
market? How Is Ancient Briton and Brinton's Early?
T. W., Muscotah, Kans.
1.654. Amaryllis for Continuous Bloom. What
sorts would you recommend?— M. E. F., Woburn, Mass.
1.655. Peach Seedlings- Will they live longer and
bear better fruit than stock from nurserymen?— W. S.
J., Augusta, Ga.
1.656. Camellia Ailing. Large leaves turning brown
and dropping off.— C. H. D., Canada.
1.657. Blackberry Culture. Give simple directions
how to grow, prune and cultivate in Georgia. How
often should plantation be renewed?
1,65S. Fertilizer Application. Should ground bone
and potash be applied on top or mixed with the soil?—
W, S. J.. Augusta, Oa.
1.659. Barren Plum Tree. My 13-year old thrifty
Plum tree- apparently Coe*a Golden Drop— blooms full
every year, but only produces about a quart of fruit.
Shall I cut It down?— O. B., North CambHage, Mass.
1.660. Mint Culture. Please give directions as to
soil, fertilizers, distillation and profits per acre.— C. S.,
Tuckerton, Pa.
1.661. Bulbs for Second Blooming. Can Tulips.
Narcissus, Polyanthus, Hyacinths, Freeslas and Chinese
Sacred Lily be used successfully the second time?
1.662. Ornithogalum Arabicum. Has grown well,
but not bloomed In two years?— Subscriber.
1.663. Salt for Asparagus. If really necessary as
claimed, how much and what kind shall I apply?
1.664. Fertilizer for Strawberries. Patch well ma-
nured with yard manure. Will commercial fertilizer
be of benefit?-S. P. S., New York.
1.665. Seed for Onion Setts. Will Mr. Faxon please
tell in what particular the seed for setts differs from
that for large Onions?- P. S., Naperville, Ills.
1.666. Healthy Cold House Plants. Please give a
list of choice plants least attacked by Insects.— L. B.,
New York City.
1.667. Salt for Fruit Trees. Is this of benefit?—
W. F., Idaho.
1.668. Trimming Cactus. How Is It done, both on
new and old growth?- H. B., Syracxise, N. Y.
1.669. Juneberry. Has any improved variety been
Introduced?
1.670. Ink fcr Zinc Labels. What Is best to use?—
N. M. R., Oregon.
1.671. Killing Hazlebushes. How Is It done most
conveniently and effectively?- Reader, Canada.
1.672. Cooking Mushrooms. Please publish some
good recipes.— A5IATEUR.
1.673. Renovating Fruit Trees. Have just come In
possession of an old neglected orchard— a perfect wild-
erness. How must I treat It?— R. S, T., Boston.
1.674. Brighton Grape. Is this an imperfect bloomer
and to be planted near other varieties?— P. H., Cin-
cinnati, Ohio.
1.675. Cauliflower Seed. How obtained?— F. L. H.,
Oakfietd, N. Y.
1.676. Clematis not Blooming. Planted three years
ago, grows well. How can I make It bloom?— Mrs. L.,
Cash, Mi-is.
1.677. Asparagus Plants. Of what age should they
be when set?— B. F. K., Edgerton, O.
1.678. Fertilizer for Grape Vines. How much
muriate of potash or phosphate should be put to each
vlne?-W. L. H., Trenton, N. J.
REPLIES TO INQUIRIES.
1,633. Celery for Market. Before you can
hope to t>e successful in growing- Celery for
market on a large scale, you snould try to learn
all about by reading all available literature on
the subject, and by growing it on a small scale.
Also try to find out what is demanded in your
nearest market. As you gain experience in
growing Celery, and in selling it to best advan-
tage, extend your operations as you think
circumstances will warrant. One of the first
and most important requisites is a supply of
good plants, and it is usually easier for a good
gardener to grow them than to buy them. In
purchasing them from a distance we are never
sure what we will get. Sow seed of Golden
Heart, White Plume, or whatever will sell best
in your market, in a well-prepared, very rich
seed bed, as early in spring as can be done.
Cover seed but lightly, feed with nitrate of soda,
cultivate and weed whenever required, and thin
early to have them stand not over 50 to the foot
of row, and you will get plants far better than
you will most likely be able to buy. Now select
a deep well-drained, rich soil, naturally moist,
but not wet. In June or July make furrows
three or four feet apart, scatter some of the very
best, well-rotted manure in them, then re-fill
with soil, mixing this and the manure well to-
gether. Now stretch a line a little one side of
the furrow, or make a straight mark, and set
the plants six inches apart, in this row. Culti-
vate and hoe, and keep free from weeds. When
the proper time comes, " handle," to make the
plants grow upright, and further on "earth up,"
or bleach in any way you prefer.
1,600. Bed Currant, We have growing on strong
clayey loam, the Fay's Prolific, Cherry, and Red
Dutch, and value them in the order named. Plants
of the Fay's Prolific and Cherry, (same age) grow-
ing side by side yielded about the game for the first
three years, after which time the Fay's outyielded
the Cherry considerably. The Fay's is also not
quite as acid as the Cherry, which is an improve-
ment. The old Red Dutch while not quite coming
up to the others in yield, has the advantage of
being sweeter and of more flavor.— W. C. Jennison.
1,586. Sweet Corn. Has the Gold Coin proved a
success? For table use we say no. It finds no
friends in this locality. The kernels are tough and
thick on the outside, with but little substance in-
side. We grew this variety by itself last season
for the purpose of securing a seed supply. Though
successful in this respect, we can only recommend
It for ensilage, for which purpose it seemed well
as it is sweet, grows eight to ten feet high, bearing
two large ears to the stalk In Massachusetts the
Corn should be planted early, if desired to have
the mature. — W. C. Jennison.
1629. Gooseberries Among Dwarf Fears. The
finest crop of Gooseberries I ever saw I found the
past summer in a neighbor's garden among her
Dwarf Pears, which were twelve feet apart, three
Gooseberry plants between each two. and three
rows of Strawberries between Pear rows.— J. L. B.
1,64.3. Caterpillars on Pecan trees. There are
a number of moths, the larvae of which feed on
Nut trees. Whether their name or nature, it seems
reasonably sure that spraying with arsenical
poisons will put a stop to their ravages. Try Paris
green in a weak solution, say one pound to 200
gallons of water and spray the trees as soon as the
caterpillars make their appearance. If this is not
strong enough, and the foliage wiil stand it, put in
a little more Paris green. Experiments of this
kind are in order, but should be made with proper
caution.
1,649. Curculio-Proof Plums. We greatly doubt
that there is a single Plum which the curculio
would not attack. Yet there are varieties, which
bear so heavy that the curculio comes as a blessing,
performing the work of thinning which otherwise
would have to be done by man, or if neglected
would result in a worthless lot of fruit. There are
also Plums bearing fruit the juice of which does
not seem to agree with the curculio larva, so that
the egg if deposited on the fruit, may hatch, but
the worm will die before it does much damage.
The Spaulding seems to belong to both these classes
of Plums. We have seen it bear heavy crops of
Plums year after year, notwithstanding a whole
army of curculios in the neighborhood. In reality,
it bears too heavy for its own good, and it has al-
ways been necessary to take off the crop long be-
fore it comes to maturity in order to save it from
the rot. For this same reason we do not know
what the ripe Spaulding is like, but we have not a
very exalted idea of the unripe fruit, although it
usually sold well in the local market. It seems to
us we would not want it where a really good Plum
can be grown. The sort introduced as "Abund-
ance" is a Japanese Plum originally sent out some
years ago, and yet sold by several New Jersey nur-
serymen, under the somewhat indefinite name of
"Botan." This Plum is promising, bears young
and full, defying the curculio attacks, but yielding
readily to rot where that prevails. W^e think highly
of it; but we doubt that the name "Abundance,"
or "Spaulding" either, will ever find a place in the
fruit catalogue of the American Pomological So.
8C38. Celery Seed Growing, Seed is sown in
spring in good rich soil. The Celery is then grown
along until frost sets in when it is trenched. The
trench should be somewhat drier than when the
Celery is just stored for market. The plants in-
tended for seed purposes, should then be selected
and only those taken which are true to the type.
Select plants of good size, soUd in stem, and with
an abundance of heart leaves. As spring ap-
proaches they should be hardened off, and set out
about the first part of May. Use only those plants
that are sound. Set the rows four feet apart and
twenty inches in the row. The soil should be rich,
well cultivated, and the weeds kept out W^hen
the seeds are brown, cut off the stalk at the root,
carry away in cloths and tresh. The remaining
seed is then dried in the sun a few days and a^ain
treshed. when all the seed will come off which is
ripe enough to be saved The seed is now dried
and cleaned and will remain good five years. An-
other method that some growers practice is to sow
the seed in greenhouses in December and grow
until spring when the plants are treated as above
described. It takes only one year to produce seed
in this manner. The last method X would not ad-
vise as I think it would have a tendency to run the
Celery into seed (or seeders as we term them) in-
stead of makiug a good marketable plant.— J. R.
V. B., Kalamazo, Mich.
1591. Poultry Hanure, We consider the most
valuable of all manures for Onions. Cabbage, Rad-
ishes, and as a top dressing of flower beds. Col-
lect once a week and put in barrels or boxes and
keep dry until about two weeks before you want
to use it. piace on a floor of some out-building if
not mnist. dampen and cover with at least two
inches of fine soil or plaster, to prevent escape of
ammonia; leave for one week, then cut the pile
down, and work over.it is now ready for use.— B.
163 1. Mildew in Pit. The probability is that
the pit is too damp Perhaps water may be drip-
ping in through the glass, and keep the earth in
pots soaked Or the ncded ventilation is not pro
vided, and there is little chance for evaporation.
Examine the soil in pots carefully, and see if every-
thing is as it should be. The f' blowing extract from
The Garden published in Europe is good advice:
Damp is sometimes a most destructive agent,
and the gardener needs to be on the alert when it
shows signs of spreading among his plants. De-
caying leaves left on plants harbor damp, and are
sometimes the me'tns of spreading it to choice sub-
jects the gardener is loth to lose. In the green-
house, where fire-heat is applied, the effects of
damp can be lessened by applying a little fire-heat
on cold. dull, misty, or wet days, and giving some
air at the same time. The shelves on which the
plants stand should be kept as clean as possible,
and it is well to cause as little drip as possible upon
the floor of the house, unless the plants are of a
character that will take no harm from the presence
of moisture on the floor. All that one can do is to
keep the house as dry as possible; to keep all de-
caying foliage gathered from the plants; to stir
the surface soil so that damp cannot gather there,
and to give air on all favorable occasions. The
soil about the roots must be kept dry. It is sur-
prising how long plants will endure in a dry state
during the dull winter months; they are then best
able to resist frost. All the tenderest plants should
be placed in the warmest and sunniest part of the
house.
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
119
160.;. Disposal of Rubbish. The advice giten
in January Poi'i'LAR Gardkning on this subject is
applicable to sandy soils and others that lose their
fertility quickly by leacliing. Clay soils "fix" and
retain fertilility. They do not leach like sand-
Manure gives the best results on clay when plowed
under, and serves the double purpose of "livening
up" the soil, especially if it be light and strawy
like horse manure. If soil is heavy and cold, rather
than cart the htter to a compost heap, it may be
plowed under. An old gardener near us digs a
trench two or three feet deep, and into this places
weeds, leaves of Pocks, anything green he can get.
When nearly full he covers with earth, and on this
makes his radish bed. The litter heats, and warm-
ing up the soil makes the Radishes mature quickly.
Cuttings planted on such a trench in the early
spring before the earth is warm elsewhere, will
root readily and grow right along.— L. J. Farmer.
Oswego County, X. V.
1606. Ked Currant. Enormous crops of the
Red Dutch Currant are grown by gardeners near
us on clay soils. I visited a neighboring fruit grow-
er this summer and his wife told me she picked
ten quarts of Red Dutch Currants from a single
bush that sold at 8c per quart. One acre (5 x 5.
174'-^ plants) at this rate would amount to $1,393.60.
The Red Dutch is better for culinary purposes and
more productive; but is not so large as Cherry or
Versailles. All Currants do better on moist heavy
soils and will stand more moisture than Rasp-
berries; but. even Currants will not thrive on un-
drained clay.— L. J. Farmer.
Wi9. Gooseberries Among Dwarf Fears-
Gooseberries will succeed, if planted as suggested,
between each two trees; provided thorough cultiva-
tion is given till the bushes get a good start, and are
afterwards mulched. The Gooseberries do better
in a partial shade, and it may pay. provided right
treatment is given both. As a rule "'succotash"
planting of fruits encumbers the ground and pre-
vents free cultivation. Small fruits may be set
among trees with successful results; but we would
not plant Strawberries among Raspberries, expect-
ing best results —L. J. Farmer.
1566. Summer Mnlch. C. E. P. wonders why so
many materials are suggested for mulching Straw-
berries when straw is so cheap, and readily ob-
tained. This year, on account of the wet weather,
grain crops run all to straw, and there is plenty of
It which can be bought for four to five dollars a
ton. But this year is an exception. Usually all
the straw can be used for bedding and feeding.
Last year was so dry that all grain and grass crops
made a small growth. Straw was scarce and hard
to get, selling at eight and ten dollars per ton. Re-
course had to be made to other materials, such as
horse manure, marsh hay, corn stalks, etc. Even
when straw is cheap and easily obtained, on ac
count of the noxious seeds in it, I much prefer
other materials, such as brakes, marsh hay. etc.
Of course tne greater part of the seeds may be re-
moved by shaking up the straw, but enough will
remain to cause much damage. In the future
we shall employ only threshing machines that sep-
arate the chatT from the straw. This year in the
hurry to get our Strawberries covered we used straw
with all the chaff and seeds in it for part of the
bed. During the warm weather of December and
early January the poultry have busied themselves
on this part of the bed. turning over the mulch and
picking up the seeds. We have caught an idea
from this, and next spring, when uncovering the
plants, we shall encourage the poultry to work
among them; removing a small part at a time and
allowing them to pick up the seeds thereon. The
tendency of hens to work in anything that has
been recently stirred is well known to gardeners. —
J. L. Farmer. Oswego Co., N. Y.
1583. Apple Stock. Our experience is that roots
three and four years old are not profitable to work.
Better buy one year old seedlings than use the
others as a gift.— Knodle Brop.
1593. Althaeas from Peed. Treat Althaea seed
same as you would common Hollyhock {Althcea
rosed), and you will succeed- — Knodle Bros.
1610. Mountain Holly. To transplant success-
fully, remove in early spring, pack the soil well
around the roots, and strip off most of the leaves
after setting.— Knodle Brcs.
1595. Hardy Eoses, All things considered we
would recommend the following as the best six
hardy Roses, viz.: Baroness Rothschild, Capt.
Christy, Dinsmore, Paul Nevron, General Jacque-
minot, Perle des Blanches.— E. T. C-
1625. Mailing Boses from England. If pro-
perly packed there is very little risk, especially if
shipped dormant, between the months of Novem-
ber and March.- E. T. C.
1619. Khododendrons at North. The Hybrid
Rhododendrons can be safely planted in the lati-
tude mentioned, but are all the better for some
protection. They prefer a moist shady position,
and the buds should be protected from direct rays
of sun in winter. Selection of varieties is a matter
of taste— E. T. C.
1652. Wine Making. Husman's American Grape
Growing and Wine Making is probably what is
wanted. It can be had of Orange Judd Co., 751
Broadway, New York City. Price JI.50.
1655. Peach Seedlings. These are usually
healthier and last longer than budded trees. Fur-
ther south we have seen excellent specimens of
seetUings, bearing regular crops of excellent fruit.
Hut since we are never sure what fruit a seedling
will produce when it comes to bearing, we will have
to depend mostly on budded stock. And if you
will only take proper care of your trees of proper
varieties, bought of reliable nursurymen, they will
last long enough to give you good fniit for many
years.- H. W. E.
1650. Barren Plum Tree. This is propably only
another case of barrenness on account of lack of
proper pollen at the proper time. You might try
to remedy the evil by setting a few grafts of other
varieties, free bloomer; such as DeSoto, Miner,
etc.. in top of your tree. When these grafts come
to bloom, which should be in a year or two, the
fruit on the rest of the tree will most likely set all
right. At least it is worth the trial.— H. W. E.
1660. Mint Culture. The production of Pepper-
mint oil is an important industry of Wayne County,
this state, most of the farmers there growing an
acre or two of Mint, besides their ordinary farm
crops. The net profits are usually higher than
those obtained from other farm crops, probably
not far from $100 per acre as an average. In this,
as in other branches of land tillage the profits de-
pend on the man as much as on anything else. The
land should be well drained, and in a fair state of
fertility, but manure is hardly ever used. In early
spring the piece selected for the crop U well pre-
pared by plowing and harrowing, and furrows
struck off about twenty inches apart in which the
root cuttings— pieces of the root stock one to two
feet in length— are planted pretty thickly to avoid
bare spots. Cultivate and hoe, keeping down all
weed growth. In August when the Peppermint is
in bloom, it is cut either with scythe or mower,
cured, and then put in small cocks like hay. Nest
it goes to the distillery, where large steam-tight
vats are filled with it. The steam coming in from
the bottom, has to work through the mass, volatilizes
the oil and escapes with it at the top through a tin
tube, which carries it to the condenser or worm,
which is a coil of pipe surrounded by cold water.
The condensed steam and oil now flows into the re-
ceiver, and here the oil is drawn off. The price of
the oil fluctuates between $1 .50 and $6 00 per pound,
and the yield varies between twenty and forty
pounds per acre.
1662. Salt for Asparagus. It will not be neces-
sary for people near the coast to apply common
salt in any form to ;their Asparagus beds. It is
even questionable whether salt under average cir-
cumstances has any beneficial effects whatever on
Asparagus plantations far away from salt water.
The only "salt" which we would advise Asparagus
growers to use freely in early spring, especially
where stable manure has been used more or less,
is nitrate of soda.— H. W. E.
1654. Fertilizer for Strawberries. Plenty of
stable manure, as applied by the inquirer, is a good
and reliable fertilizer, and it will not be absolutely
necessary to make additional applications; yet
when the grower has easy access to a good complete
manure, or to wood ashes it would do no hurt to
use one of these or both in small quantities also.
1669. Juneberry. We do not know that any im-
proved varieties have been put on the market gen-
erally. We heard Mr. Vandeman, United States
Pomologist, say that he had a very fine named
variety. Prof. Budd. of the Iowa Agricultural Col-
lege, also claims to have especially floe sorts. We
hold the Junberry in high esteem, and hope that
these improved varieties will soon be offered to the
public. Mr. Chas. Gibb mentions the 'Grinnell."'
the ' Green County" and '"Gardener" as most ex-
cellent fruits.— H. W. E.
1657. Blackberry Culture. Early Harvest for
early, Wilson for late will probably do well in
Georgia. Set out on well prepared soil, in rows
eight feet apart, and three or four feet apart in the
rows. Cultivate well, and keep the suckers con-
fined to the rows. Pinch the growing canes back
when three feet high, and shorten the side shoots
with the aim to make low compact bushes. With
good culture the plantation will last many years,
but should be renewed when crops begin to grow
smaller.- H. W. E.
1658. Fertilizer Application. Bone dust or
potash for Raspberries and Blackberries may be
simply scattered broadcast over the ground, no
especial pains being required to work it into the
soil other than the usual course of cultivation.
1671. Killing Hazelbusbes. The Witch Hazel
and the Hazelnut bush have great suckering pro-
pensities, but if cut close to the ground early in the
winter, they will seldom troubleagaln. In swamps
we have always succeeded in killing the common
Swamp Alder by chopping the whole clumps off
way into the soft ground, which can usually be
done with impunity, no stones being about. If a
similar course can be adopted with the Hazel it
will make a certain end of it. Be sure to leave no
sharp stubs to hurt pasturing horses another sea-
son.—H. W. E.
1675. Brighton Grape. This ia one of the varie-
ties that cannot be relied on to self fertilize, and
it should always be planted among other sorts
m order to have the benefit of a free pollen distri-
bution by other sorts.
1670. Ink for Zinc Labels. Recipe will be found
elsewhere in this issue,
1672. Cooking Mushrooms. A nice soup can
be made of them by stewing same as you would
oysters, only cooking a little longer. Other good
recipies are as follows, taken from Farm and Fire-
side: 'Scalloped Mushrooms.— Cover the bottom of
a buttered dish with a layer of Pepper and salt, and
lay bits of butter over. Put layers of Mushrooms
alternately with the bread until the dish is full.
Cover the top with butter, moisten with cream and
bake. Baked ^fushrooms.— Choose the large Mush-
rooms. Peel, cut off the stalks close to the top,
place them upside down in a shallow dish. Sprinkle
with salt and pepper, and lay a little piece of but-
ter on each. Bake in a quick oven for fifteen min-
utes, baste with a little melted butter. Serve hot
on the dish in which they are baked. Fricassee of
Mushrooms.— Feel the Mushrooms, put first in boil
ing water, then in cold, take out, wipe dry. Put a
tablespoonful of butter into a saucepan, and lay in
the Mushrooms. Set over the fire and stir, add
flour enough to thicken, with a little Pepper, salt,
Thyme and Mace. Pour in soup stock enough to
thin out and let simmer half an hour. Take out
the Mushrooms, strain the gravy, beat the yolks of
three eggs and stir them with the juice of a Lemon
into the liquor. Have prepared small slices of
fried bread, lay the Mushrooms on them and pour
the sauce over.
1648. Numbering Forceps. We do not think
that they are kept on sale by any firm in this coun-
try. You might try Peter Henderson & Co., of
New York, or Vaughan's seed store in Chicago.
They are advertised for sale, we believe, by Lud-
wig Miller. Erfurt, Germany.
1675. Cauliflower Seed. The bulk of this is im
ported, little being grown here as the torrid heat of
our summers does not agree with the crop. An
effort is now being made by a party near Puget
Sound, {Henry March, Fidalgo, Wasb.). to compete
with German growers in the production of Cauli-
flower seed, and the samples we have seen and
^. ^^^vl
^§$$
OFvTO^-
<;^^
•C'-o-^
t:V//''r^:^
DETAILS OF CASE ON NEXT PAGE. FIG. 2.
tested from him, were remarkable for size and
vitality, and reliability for heading. We do not
know how he manages his seed or seed stock. If
plants are started and set out very early, they often
go to seed in fall and produce a small crop of seed.
A safer way would be to sow seed in July, winter
the plants in pits or cold frames, and set them out
in spring, as you would Cabbages or Turnips. A
fair crop may thus be grown,
1546. Yard for Hens. The larger the better;
although with good care, cleanliness, frequent
spading over of the ground, and still better with
occasional changing from one yard to another, a
dozen hens can be kept healthy and in good laying
trim in a rather small enclosure, say twenty or
thirty feet square. Brahmas and Cochins can be
kept confined by a fence three feet high; for Ply-
mouth Rocks the fence should be at least four or
five feet high; for Langshans five to six feet, for
the Spanish races, Leghorns. Dunghills and Mong-
rels from eight to ten feet high.
1678. Fertilizer for Grape Vines. Apply muri-
ate of potash at the rate of 200 to 500 pounds per
acre; plain phosphate, (bone dust, ground rock or
floats, acid phosphate at the rate of 1000 lbs. per
acre.) If you have 7.")0 vines per acre, this would
make from one-third to two-third pound of muriate
of potash, and about IJ4 lbs, of phosphate to the
single vine. But if these quantities are exceeded,
even quite largely, you need not fear ill results,
and it may be all the better for the vine.
THE COMPLETE GARDEN.*
XXXIII
BY A WELL-KNOWN HORTICULTtmiST
(Continued from page 96.)
GLASS IN THE GARDEX.
For Growing Vegetables. The more pro-
gressive home gardener is not any more
satistied with the natural products of the
season, but desires to enjoy the benefits of
a fresh vegetable supply almost every day
during the entire year.
No serious obstacles are in the way of
securing such achievement. A few sashes
alone will help us over many difficulties,
♦Copyright, 1887, Popular Gardening Publishing Co.
r 20
POPULAR GARDENING.
February,
but the additional help of a little artificial
heat enables us to produce the most desira-
ble summer vegetables in the middle of
winter, or at such other time as we may
desire them.
Glass Without Artificial Heat. Much
can be done by the use of glass alone, espec-
ially in localities where the winters are not
exceedingly severe. Of course, hardy plants.
Lettuce, Cabbage, Cauliflower, etc., can be
successfully wintered over in cold frames
(simple, tight-fitting boxes covered with
common sashes, and in severe weather per-
haps with mats or shutters) even at the
extreme north; but here we aim to preserve
the growth already made, not to force a new
growth during winter.
In milder climates, especially along the
Atlantic coast from New York City south-
ward, cold frames and cold houses are and
can be used for the production of hardy
winter vegetables, for instance, Spinach,
Lettuce, Radishes, Parsley, also Carrots,
Beets, Soup Celery, etc. The beds and
houses are usually sowed with Spinach (the
hardiest of these vegetables) in the fall; and
the crop is ready for use in February or
March, when they are at once planted with
Lettuce or sowed to Radishes and other
crops, which are ready for use in March,
April and perhaps May.
In all these instances the glass is simply
used as a preserver of natural heat and
moisture, and as a protection from wind
and draught. A little in the way of winter
gardening may be done by any home gar-
dener, if he will devote a frame with a few
sashes to this piirpose, and place it in a well
protected, sunny location, making every-
thing snug and tight, and using mats and
shutters when needed. Here a few Parsley
and perhaps Celery plants may be kept
green and growing, to supply material for
flavoring soups, etc., and for garnishing,
while Spinach should be the main early crop,
to be followed towards spring by Radishes
and Lettuce, or anything else that is desired.
The market gardeners at the east some-
times ase houses, or rather pits, svich as
shown in engraving page 100, but with the
heating arrangement left out. Each roof is
formed of two tiers of sashes, which may be
of the common liot-bed sash size (3 by tj), or
preferably a little longer. The walks or
alleys between the beds are sunk into the
ground about 18 inches deep, giving just
room enough to walk erect under the center
of the roofs. The beds or benches are about
level with the ground. The whole arrange-
ment, in either capacity (as cold pit or warm
house) is as simple, economical and sensible
as can well be imagined. Its advantages,
especially of convenient operation, when
compared with the cold frame method, are
too obvious to need further explanation.
The majority of home growers will most
likely find the double structure too large
I - - -. ;'
S —
— ' — -^ ~ — - 1
DETAILS OF WINDOW CASE. FIG. 3.
for their purpose, and in that case a single
pit, which would appear like one-half of the
engraving, will give on a smaller scale all
the advantages of the double house. Here
the gardener can take comfort among his
vegetables, and work in any kind of weather
without inconvenience.
Gardening With Heated Structures.
The simplest and yet most common way of
forcing vegetables is by means of the ordin-
ary hot-bed. Fermenting horse manure
under the soil furnishes the moist heat so
congenial to thrifty plant growth, and the
only fault to be found with it is that it is
not lasting, nor otherwise sufflciently under
control. The depth of manure should be
regulated according to the season and local-
ity. For growing vegetables during the
coldest weather, in a cold climate, the layer
may have to be two or even two and one-half
feet deep, while a foot less may be sufficient
late in the season, or in a locality where mild
winters are the rule.
If the bed is well heated by manure
underneath and well protected by banking
and otherwise, crops of Radishes,
Lettuce and other vegetables are
easily grown. Be sure to utilize —Z. .1
every inch of space all the time. .Z'Z
Plant close without crowding. Rad- ~"l;
ishes will grow in rows three or four — ■ •-
inches apart, and an inch or less ~
apart in the rows, especially if the
larger ones are picked for use, and
the smaller ones left to grow. Let-
tuce may be set seven inches apart
in seven inch rows, and a row of
Radishes can also be grown between
each two of Carrots,Beets, Lettuce,
etc. They grow so fast that they ~.
are out the way when the other
plants needithe room.
Fire hot-beds, as found in use
here and there, have an advantage over
the manure bed in their regular, steady and
easily controlled heat supply. They are
sometimes single, oftener double, beds with
a flue under a strongly built and well-sup-
ported floor, with a furnace at one end, and
a chimney at the other. Their disadvantages
are first the dry quality of the heat, which
should be counteracted by the evaporation
from pans with water placed at intervals
upon the flue; second, the disposition of the
foundation to rot away.
On the whole, there is no hot-bed con-
struction so convenient, economical and
satisfactory in every way, as the forcing pit
shown on page 100, and in some measure
already described as a cold house. For the
amateur it may be single and not very long.
A dozen common hot bed sashes, costing
$2\, will give him a pit with two beds 4)^
feet wide and 18 feet long, or an aggregate
of about IHO square feet of tillage surface.
A small, cheap, hot water boiler with some
common iron pipe encased in 3 or 4 inch tile
and placed 13 or 1.5 inches below the surface,
altogether costing not over $40, will provide
the necessary heat.
A structure of this kind will be an endless
source of pleasure. Here you can keep and
propagate your flowers, grow Lettuce, Rad-
ishes and other vegetables in perfection all
winter, and produce all the vegetable plants,
— Totnato, Egg Plant, Cabbage, Caiiliflower,
etc., that you and your neighbors want.
What you may be able to dispose of to your
neighbors, or at your nearest town, at fair
prices, will more than pay the whole expense
of running the pit and the interest on the
investment, giving you a bounteous supply
of vegetables at a time when they are scarce
and high-priced, of the very best plants for
out-door setting in spring, and all the pleas-
ure found in this work besides, for the little
labor of taking care of the pit,.
The bottom, a fig 3, should be formed of
board 1}{ inch or 1}< inch thick, with three
pieces of 1 inch by }{ inch iron screwed
across on the under side, to keep it from
warping, and should be rounded on the
outer edge, and also have a drip groove
round the under side There should also be
a groove in the top side to receive the glass
panels. The narrow glass panels around
the bottom part of the case may be any kind
of thick glass painted inside of any desired
color; this will prevent pots or earth being
seen through the glass. It is, however, a
a
How to make a Window Case.
Window eases fllled with thrifty plants
make an agreeable screen, and give an airof
comfort to a residence. Well-to-do people
may have them in fancy designs, in easy
curves with bent glass and with highly
ornamental tile bases, but the amateur will
probably be content with such a respectable
looking case as he can himself construct.
The design, shown in flg. 1, says Amateur
Gardening, is made with a view to suit an
ordinary sash window, and simply and
cheaply constructed.
AN amateur's window CASE. FIG. 1.
good plan as tending to durability, to have
a galvanized iron tray, as shown in cross-
section, flg. 1, to set inside, with pipes
through the bottom for drainage. The
upper panels, /. d. and roof, c, may be
glazed with sheet glass, and the wood be
any hard kind, or good red deal. In the
latter case it .should have three coats of
paint, and in the former one coat of boiled
oil, and then a coat of varnish. Care should
be taken that it is well supported so as to
bear not only its own weight, but also that
of any plants that may be put into it. To
this end good strong iron brackets, as shown
at flg. 3, should be used, and a fixing ob-
tained on each side near the top of the case
into the window frame.
It may be advisable to screw on some
neat brass or maleable iron l angles at the
corners where the timbers are jointed to-
gether. Some red and white lead mixed
with boiled oil, to the consistency of glue,
should be put into all the joints. In this
case it is intended that the top rail, ;/. flg 1,
should reach to the meeting rail of the
window against which it is to be placed, so
that when the lower sash is lifted up, access
can be had to the case; at the same time air
will be circulated in it. Fig. 2 shows the
construction of the bars, rails and rafters
needed.
For preserving plants in flower in winter,
a tiny hot-water boiler, set on a bracket
under the window, inside the room, and
heated by a gas jet from a fiexible tube, or
by an oil lamp, with a small lead pipe lead-
ing from the boiler around the case, may be
used for providing the required temperature.
The Fruit Outlook.
After a season so widely disastrous to the fruit
interests as that of the past one it is only
natural that fruit (growers ask themselves with
considerable apprehension what effect the un-
usual warm weather which thus tar has prevailed
this winter, will have on the next fruit crop. We
have not the gifts of a prophet; but it may be
well to state that we have before this seen the
buds of Peaches swell prematurely, and appa-
rantly all be destroyed by severe cold afterwards,
yet there were dormant or secondary fruit buds
enough to bring ^a most excellent crop. We
further believe that this is not an unusual occur-
ance. Nature has latent powers and reserve
forces she often develops in an emergency.
There is at this writing no serious grounds for
fear. Even if fruits do not set as full as usual,
superior size and quality after all may make up
for the deficiency in number.
POPULAR GARDENING
AND FRUIT GROWING.
"ACCUSE NOT NATURE, SHE BATH DONE HEB PART: DO THOU BUT THJiVt,'." -Mjlton.
Vol. V.
OVT-A-IRCII, 1890.
No. 6.
March.
Though winter waits reluctant
To yield the rule to March.
The sun with step exultant
Walks high through heaven's arch,
Till day and night
Bring new delight.
By equal hours In March.
At rest in Winter's rigor
The life-tide wends Its way.
Ascending with new vigor.
Up through the branches gray.
From roots below
'Neath melting snow.
Predicting leaves of May.
—Clara Hapgood Nash.
Hardy Shrubs. A collection of 50 choice
bloomers does not cost much; it is capable of
yielding endless pleasure.
Florid lANS Excited. Phosphate beds of almost
unlimited extent, and the materia] of superior
quality— this is the (tratifying news from Marion,
Polk and Hermando Counties, Fla.
A Tuup Trke on a farm near Aurora, Cayuga
Co„N, T,a few years ago was cut down, and
sawed into 15,000 feet of boards, which furnished
the entire outside covering of a large barn.
Safe Storage for Southern FRtrrrs A por-
tion of the wharf of the Florida Fruit Exchange
in Boston has been enclosed, and provided with a
heater, so that the temperature can always be
Itept above W degrees. Cars and teams can be
loaded and unloaded in this safe and roomy en-
closure, and the fruit can be left here without
danger of freezing. This is an important im-
provement.
How TO CONTROI. THE COMMISSION MERCHANT.
This has been a much-discussed question at the
meetings and in the papers this winter, and it
seems that some action should be taken for the
protection of fruit shipped against dishonest
dealers. By co-operation of the shippers in each
township much might !« done. Let them appoint
a meeting and elect officers. The secretary, or
executive committee, should receive the reports
of every member concerning the ways of each
dealer to whom he has shipped produce and thus
gather some pretty reliable information about
the true standing of the men they trust with
consignments This, of course, is merely a sug-
gestion, and the details of the plan have to be
worked out by the parties interested.
Early RtjBY Tomato. Messrs. Henderson &
Co. write us that the Early Ruby is an altogether
different sort than we had ou our grounds last
season, and which we supposed to be the same as
now sent out by them as Earl.v Ruby. Our varie-
ty is very similar to Matchless, of the same bushy
growth, while Early Ruby of Henderson's has
thin and open foliage, exposing the clusters well
to the influence of light and sun, thus making
the fruit extremely early. It is recommended as
just the variety U> suit the wants of the grower
for early market. We have need of a variety of
this type that will give us real good fruit. All
extra early sorts, Atlantic Prize, Early Advance,
etc, are yet deficient in this respect. We shall
be pleased to see this want filled by the Early
Ruby of Henderson's.
Responsibility OF Plant Sellers. The ques-
tion, how far should nurserymen, florists and
seedsmen be held responsible for the quality and
genuineness of the goods they sell, is a very im-
portant one. An English jury has just rendered
a verdict which to us seems to be also in accord
with public sentiments on this side the Atlantic.
A London nurseryman bought .500 plants of what
his seed merchant alleged were Spircea palmata,
the bloom of which is of a deep peeony red.
When the plants bloomed they proved to be Spi-
rcea elegam, which, being of a dirty white, were
practically valueless as a commercial article.
The buyer therefore sued the seller for Is. 3d. for
each of the 500 plants, which he would have ob-
tained for them had they been what they were
sold for. The jury found for the plaintiff for the
full amount claimed.
A Cheap Portable Sprayer Needed. Spray-
ing as a remedy for injurious insects and fungus
diseases undoubtedly has come to stay. The
progressive grower finds that this item in the
management of orchards, vineyards, gardens and
Potato fields is one which he cannot permit him-
self to ignore. No spray— no crop; this alterna-
tive we see looming up before us. The large
orchard ist and the large Potato grower are now
provided with serviceable spraying pumps Their
large 'operations require sprayers of large
capacity, and the growers can alford to invest in
the higher priced implements. The amateur, or
even the average vineyardist or Potato grower,
however, needs a tool that can be operated by
band while being carried on the back. Such
portable sprayers have often been described and
pictured in the department bulletins and in hort-
cultural papers, yet the only tool of this kind
(the Eurekal which has been patented in this
country, to our knowledge, is not found on the
market. The French " Vermorel " pump is also
an excellent tool of this kind, and not patented.
Why will not some enterprising party manufac-
ture or import it, and give us a chance to make
use of such portable sprayer at moderate cost?
Give us Fractional Currency.
The ten million people who live in large
cities, most Congress members among them,
have no need of buying through the mails.
They can go to a store near by and procure
any article they may desire. But the fifty
odd millions of our population living In the
country and country towns are differently
situated. Where are they going to get
many of the conveniences and necessities
of rural life— such as books, papers, seeds,
plants, roots, flowers, Insecticides, horticul-
tural implemeuts, and a host of other things,
not on sale In their Immediate neighborhood
— if not by purchase from a distance?
These fifty-odd million people must make
remittances by mall, and it Is not always
convenient to do this by postal note or
money orders: hence the fifty-odd million
of people thus situated should be supplied
with a money suited to their needs. Postage
stamps were never designed for currency,
and with their small size and sticky backs,
and not being legal tender, are in no way
suited for that purpose. Yet for want of
something better millions of dollars worth
of stamps are thus in circulation — a dread
to the sender and a poor apology for legal
tender money In the hands of seedsmen,
nurserymen and other shippers of small
merchandise, as well as of publLshers.
This urgent need can be supplied by the
re-Issue of a few million dollars in fractional
currency.
Here are simple facts that admit no con-
tradiction They were recognised by the
recent lively agitation In the agricultural
papers, by the unanimity with which this
re-issue of fractional currency was demand-
ed, and by the law authorizing It which was
introduced in last Congress, but, we believe,
was buried In one of committee rooms
because our law makers were occupied too
much with " high politics ' to give the in-
terests of rural people a hearing.
The law should be speedily resurrected in
the present Congress. The agricultural
press must speak out. Let us strike while
the iron Is hot. Our demands are modest,
perhaps only too much so,and Congress can
not Ignore them if we press the matter.
We do not ask for subsidies, nor for
pensions, nor for the construction of expen-
sive buildings, etc., at public expense. We
have absolutely no designs on the U. S.
Treasury and its surplus. We do not ask
to have it squandered in otir interest nor in
anybody else's. Perhaps we might find
more attentive listeners if we did.
Let the agricultural press make another
united effort for fractional currency, per-
haps for lower postage rates on fourth-class
mall matter, and better railway facilities
generally. It's little enough we ask; but let
us cry out. Congress, if wise, will hear and
heed our cry.
Climatic Modification of Plants.
PaOF. J. L. BUBD, AGEICrXTTRAl. COLLEGE, lOWA.
I notice in the December number this
suggestive paragraph: "Lack of pollen,
which so very often results in partial or
entire barreness of many fruit and nut trees,
does not seem to be a fault with the Russian
fruits. Abundance of pollen and plenty of
fruit in consequence,is the rule with them."
This Is true of the Duchess Apple, the
Gakovsky Pear, the Orloff Cherry, the Early
Red Plum, and Indeed all the orchard fruits
of interior Russia In Europe and Central
Asia. But Russia covers, It is said, about
one-seventh of the earth's surface of dry
land, hence all the characteristics of the
fruits named are varied in the different
provinces of the great empire.
-\ brief enumeration of some of the climatic
modifications of the varieties of the orchard
fmlts of the dry Interior of east Europe and
central Asia may have some interest.
The Friit Buds axd Blossoms. The
fruit buds are peculiarly loaded and pro-
tected with starch in the cell structure to an
unusual extent. Hence I have never known
the fruit buds of the -Apple, Pear, Cherry,
or Plum from this region Injured by our
test winters.
As stated the anthers of the large and
strong stamens are always loaded with per-
fect pollen, and in addition every part of the
flower is stronger, thicker and better able
to endure without Inquiry the frosts and
weather changes of the blossoming period-
If the trees blossom they rarely faU to per-
fect their fruit.
It Is well-known that the blossoms of the
Duchess Apple will endure frosts that will
blast those of our common varieties, but not
as well known that all varieties from the
home of the Duchess are equally hardy in
fruit bud and blossom. -\s an instance, in
the spring of 1888 we had severe frosts when
the Cherry was in blossom with the result
that we had a total failure in the whole
state of the varieties of the old list: yet such
Russian varieties as Orloff, Large Long
Late, Shadow Amarelle, and Spate Amarelle
were loaded with fruit even on low ground.
The Fkuit. The fruit of the Apple, Pear,
Cherry and Plum from this region is equally
characteristic. In nearly all cases It has a
clear, wax-like expression, and a tendency
to pubescence and bloom. ^Tiile the skin
seems tender, it is able to withstand the
122
POPULAR GARDENING.
March,
fungous diseases such as scab, rot, and
cracking. In no case have I seen scab on
an Apple or Pear of this race, nor the
Cherries or Plums to cracli or rot.
The Leaf. The foliage of all the orchard
fruits, and the trees and shrubs from this
region is peculiar in thickness, firmness of
texture, number of rows of palisade cells,
and its pubescence, often silvery in expres-
sion. The surface of the leaves, like that
of the fruits, seems also unfavorable to rust
deposits. While the rust of the Pear and
Cherry leaves has been constantly on the in-
crease in the vrest during the past ten years,
we rarely find a trace of it on the
interior varieties of the Russian .^^
Pears and Cherries, and the foliage
is perfect on the native and Russian
Plums when every leaf has prema_^
turely dropped from southwest
European varieties, such as the
Lombard.
Determinate Growth. Without
regard to the character of the au-
tumn, all these varieties ripen up
their points of growth before cold
weather comes on. The micro-
scopic examinations made by Dr.
Halstead in the winter of 1888 de-
termined the fact that all the vari-
eties and species from the region
now considered ripened so perfectly
prior to the advent of severe frosts
as to form "caps" of almost pure
starch cells at every point of growth,
while the tips of the hardiest of our
old varieties— aside from the Rus-
sian—were relatively soft and im
mature.
Hibernating Tendenci-. The
perfectly ripened varieties of this
region remain dormant during our
periodic warm spells of winter pecu-
liar to the Mississippi valley, about
as perfectly as our native Box Elder
or Currant bushes. The peculiar
bark we can also say is not favor-
able to evaporation during our dry
winters, and it does not absorb
water as do the Siberian Crabs and
the common sorts from southwest
Europe. As a proof of this the trees never
bark-crack at the crown in nursery or
orchard, apparently for the reason that they
do not absorb water at the crown during
wet autumns, which swells the protoplasm,
and ruptures the inelastic bark. The same
peculiarity of the skin of the Cherry and
Pear seems to prevent cracking of the fruit.
In all this we notice climatic modifications
which we observe on native trees as we go
westward from the Atlantic to the dry plains
of Colorado.
with a smaller one in the foreground at the
left. Exotic Grape vines (Black Hamburg)
in luxuriance are seen in the back ground,
covering the tall trellis in front of the sev-
eral buildings. The large Fig tree is about
ten feet high, and about as wide.
To bring out this enormous growth, the
ground had been trenched, lavishly enrich-
ed, and the soil reversed to the depth of
several feet. The wintering, of course, is
the only real problem, and Mr. Pafiiord
solves it by cutting out all old and unwield-
ly wood, and bending the young growths
carefully down to the ground, with all the
The Fig at the North.
We have never felt justified in recom-
mending Fig growing at the north for profit.
We hesitate to recommend it now. But
when we saw the fine Fig bushes in the
garden of Mr. Henry Pafford of Niagara,
Ont., la.st fall, and the fine specimens he
had preserved in jars, and heard him tell of
the abundant crops he gathers every season,
we came to the conclusion that many
northern gardeners who take an interest i/i
such things, or pride in having something
different from other people, could derive
much pleasure and enjoyment from the
possession of a Fig bush or two in his gar-
den, provided this is in a well protected sit-
uation, or like Mr. Pafford's, surrounded
on nearly all sides by buildings, and in a
locality where the nearness of great bodies
of water " take the sting out of the bliz-
zard's tail."
At our suggestion, Mr. Pafford had his
Fig tree photographed last autumn. Our
illustration is a reproduction of this picture,
showing the large tree or bush in centre.
FIG CULTURE AT THE NORTH.
small fruit which the buds contain, left on,
then setting stakes crosswise over the wood
to keep it in place, and covering with litter
and soil until spring, when it is uncovered
and straightened out.
Good Taste In Naming Fruits and
Vegetables.
The American Pomological Society has
adopted a set of most excellent rules for
naming fruits, and tries in every way to
enforce them; yet many of the nurserymen,
who are really the main body of that useful
association, seem to care little for those
rules when writing up their catalogues.
The public is fast learning, however, that
the most fiagrant violators of the rules are
also habitual introducers of worthless trash,
or of old things luider new, and usually of-
fensive names.
Even where the violation of the rules of
the Pomological Society do not involve a
violation of honesty and integrity as they
do in some cases, they very usually involve
a violation of good taste. So are the mons-
trous chromos with their unnatural glaring
colors a violation of good taste, and they
begin to be offensive to public taste and
sentiment as well.
We are thankful to the Association of
the American Agricultural Colleges and Ex-
periment Stations for their efforts now be-
ing made in calling the attention of the
seed trade, and of introducers of new veget-
ables to the flagrant violation of good taste
and good sense of which they have made
themselves so often guilty in the selection
of names for their novelties.
This agitation can not fail to have good
results, though they may come very slow,
but we think it is in perfect accord with
popular sentiment, and, if continued long
enough, must sweep the offensive nomen-
clature away in the end. In fact we notice
a very great improvement in this year's
crop of catalogues already.
The Committee on Nomenclature of Veg-
etables consists of the following good names
of well-known personages— L. H. Bailey,
E. S. Goff, W. J. Green. These gentlemen
are confident that "brevity, accuracy and
good taste in the naming of vegetables
are perfectly compatible with the
purposes of the trade." A leading
principle of this new nomenclature
is that the name merely serves the
purpose of designating the plant,
■ ■ not of describing it.
The rules which the committee
'■ have formulated, are as follows:
1. The name of a variety should
consist of a single word, or at most
of two words. A phrase , descrip-
tive or otherwise, is never allowa-
ble; as. Pride of Italy, King of
Mammoths, Earliest of All.
2. The name should not be super-
lative or bombastic. In particular
all such epithets as New, Large,
Giant, Fine, Selected, Improved,
and the like should be omitted. If
the grower or dealer has a superior
stock of a variety, the fact should
be stated in the description im-
mediately after the name, rather
than as a part of the name itself; as,
" Trophy, selected stock."
S. If a grower or dealer has pro-
cured a new select strain of a well-
known variety it shall be legitimate
for him to use his own name in con-
nection with the established name
of the variety; as. Smith's Winning-
stadt, .Jones' Cardinal.
4. When personal names are given
to varieties, titles should be omitted;
as. Major, General, Queen.
5. The term hybrid should not be
used, except in those rare instances
in which thevariety is known to be of hybrid
origin (the product of two species).
6. The originator has the prior right to
name the variety; but the oldest name which
conforms to these rules should be adopted.
7. This committee reserve the right, in
their own publications, to revise objection-
able names in conformity with these rules.
The Horse Chestnut.
Of leading trees suitable for lawn and
street planting the Horse Chestnxit easily
should be included in the best half-dozen.
There are at least three superior kinds
namely the Common White the Double varie-
ty of the same and the distinct and handsome
Red-flowering Horse Chestnut. The trees
first named are of rapid growth, and with
age reaching a size of sixty to eighty teet in
height and of nearly the same breadth.
The Red-flowering is not quite so strong in
growth as are the former but it is greatly
esteemed for its flowers which are of a
brilliant red and very attractive.
A peculiarity of the HorseChestnuts.which
commends them to all tree lovers is that
the foliage appears In its fulness earlier
than that of other shade trees. The foliage
is of a beautiful green and without gloss.
Following immediately on the rapid burst-
ing of the leaves the blossoms appear in
great spikes resembling very much a dis-
play of Hyacinth heads set in the green
young foliage. At this stage no hardy tree
can equal the Horse Chestnut for beauty.
In autumn an attraction appears in the Com-
mon species for the children in a bountiful
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
123
crop of extremely handsome mahogany-
colored nuts, which alTord materials for
play equal to the same number of rubber
balls, for the beautiful clean nuts possess
an elasticity almost equal to that of India
rubber. Should those persons who possess
overnice notions of tree propriety, prefer to
be without the crop of nuts they have but
to plant any of the varieties besides the
Common, as no others seed freely if at all.
For our part we expect always to be so
young that we shall look upon the fruiting
season of the Horse Chestnut as
not the least attractive stage in
its annual round of development.
As the tree increases in age
its dense foliage loses much of the
formality of outline peculiar to
the younger growth, and instead
breaks Into line masses more and
more beautiful, until it becomes
one of the grandest of trees.
We have said this much for
onr old favorites in part because
of a disposition in some quar-
ters, to speak disparagingly of
their merits. Indeed we can do
the class no better turn than to
present the follo'n-ing ridiculous
words concerning the Common
Horse Chestnut, as showing the
work of some against it. The
extract is from the Rochester
Democrat and Chronicle, a source
from which better things should
be expected.
"It is a nuisance from the time
the blossoms appear until the
boughs are bare," says our
Rochester contemporary. "It
might be valuable to reclaim
barren fields, because the parts
which it drops during the year
would make quite a large addi-
tion to the mold which renders
the earth of forests so rich. The
blossoms become a crushed mass
of nasttness when they fall. When
the nuts begin to drop, passers-
by need helmets to protect their
heads. Besides, the litter of the
faUen burs is very disagreeable.
When soaked with the rains of
autumn, the burs color the walks
and everything with which tbey
come in contact, and do not dis-
appear until thoroughly incorpor-
ated with the mold of the fallen
leaves from the same tree. The
leaves, with their large, spraw-
ling stems, cover the walks as
with a mat, and are even more
disagreeable than the litter of
the burs.
•• The Horse Chestnut grows rapidly, and
this fact seems to be its only recommenda-
tion. Why should not the native Chestnut
of our forests be planted instead of the
worthless tree no w so common ? The nut of
the native Chestnut is an article of com-
merce, and if boys are to club Chestnut
trees let them do it to some purpose. The
nuts of the Horse Chestnut are worthless
except for medicine. A sufficient supply for
medicine can be obtained without cumber-
ing city streets with the disagreeable tree. "
Chiswick Conference on November .5th. of
last year. This is a pretty and graceful
Japanese, with exceedingly line threadlike
tlorets of a soft, clear straw color. It will
probably prove useful for cutting purposes,
as light flowers like these are admirable for
arranging in vases.
Western New York Fruit Growers.
For the Rose slug a new remedy has been
found by Mr. Howard of the Department of
Agriculture. This is simpy a strong stream
A New Japanese Chrysanthemum.
The improvement in Chrysanthemums
goes merrily on, which with the interest
taken in this flower by the best and most
skillful horticulturists of both America and
England, and perhaps by the public gener-
ally, is not to be wondered at. The annexed
illustration, reproduced from the Journal
of Horticulture, shows the bloom of the
new variety "Mrs. Carter.' Fine speci-
mens of this, among other novelties, were
exhibited by Messrs. J. Carter & Co., at the
NEW CHRYSANTHEMUM, WITH THREAD-LIKE FLORETS
of cold water thrown with considerable
force upon the infested foliage. Tobacco
tea and Pyrethrum were also effective, but
the former stains the plants; the latter is
too costly. The jet of cold water also killed
the aphis on Currants, and similar pests,
also drove the English sparrows away from
their nests and places of refuge. This
remedy is effective against the Roseleaf
hopper and those feeding on Grapes, etc.
For Grape diseases Dr. Lintner recom-
mends force pump and Bordeaux mixture,
prepared after the following formula : six
pounds of copper sulphate dissolved in four
gallons of hot water, four pounds of lime
slacked in four gallons of cold water; mix
and dilute to 33 gallons. This will be found
effective against most fungi. For use on
Potatoes this Bordeaux mixture may be
combined with London purple, and thus be
made effective both for Potato rot and Col-
orado Potato bug.
Many insects are effectively fought with
carbolated plaster, made by stirring a pint
of crude carbolic acid into .50 lbs. of plaster.
A new Pear pest belonging to the group
of case bearers has been discovered. It
burrows into the young fruit and spoils it.
May prove to be wide spread. What the
species is not yet determined. Spraying soon
after the fruit sets will probably prove to be
the remedy.
Another newly found insect is a snapping
beetle which attacks Quince blossoms. The
only way to treat it thus far discovered is
knocking it off into a pan with water and
kerosene.
The Peach bark borer is a
small beetle which attacks trees
affected by yellows.
A new Rose pest has also been
observedj thus far, however, only
in the larvie state. It Is a borer
attacking the tips. A lady re-
ports that 20 years ago the same
insect had given her trouble ; she
fought it with knife and fire for
tour or five years, and got rid of
it until its re-appearance now.
Arsenical Poisons. Mr. S. D.
Willard tells that Prof. Cook's
remarks, made in this hall a
year ago, had induced him to
spray a small orchard with Lon-
don purple, using four ounces to
.50 gallons of water. I badly in-
jured Pears,and especially Plums.
The latter are very sensitive. All
the foliage dropped, reducing
what he expected to be a yield
of 3,500 baskets to 1,000 baskets.
London purple is not of uniform
strength. It dissolves in water
and should be used with great
caution. If possible handle the
nozzle yourself. Thinks that two
ounces dissolved in a 100 gallons
would be affective.
The' testimony of different mem-
bers is very conflicting, and seems
to show that there must be a
great variation in the strength
of Paris green. Dr. Lintner thinks
the codlin would "laugh and grow
fat'" on London purple after Mr.
Willard's prepared formula.
Jlr. Chapin states he has ap-
plied Paris green, two ounces in
a barrel of water, for many years
on his 130 acre orchard of Bald-
wins with unvarying good re-
sults, also to Pear trees. He buys
a genuine article from Xew York,
in 100 pound kegs; has little
confidence in the one pound
packages on sale in country stores.
The discussions also brought to
light that Plum trees often drop
their foliage from other causes
besides spraying with London purple, and
that we may often blame London purple,
when fungi are the real cause of the trouble.
Election of Officers. This had the
following result: President, Patrick Barry,
Rochester. Vice Presidents; S. D. Willard,
Geneva, W. C. Barry, Rochester; W. C.
Smith, Syracuse ; J. S. Woodward, Lock-
port ; Secretary, John Hall, Rochester; Exe-
cutive Committee: C. M. Hooker, Lewis
Chase, B. W. Clark, C. W. Stuart, N.
Bogue, Batavia.
Ontario Fruit Growers in Council.
{Continued from page. 95.)
Peaches for Profit. Mr. James F.
Taylor of Michigan says there are many
small sections.not only in Ontario,but in the
United States as well, which are well suited
for Peach culture. This is especially true
of land that has ridges and hills, and vales,
and consequently protected situations.
Severe frosts in spring are usually more
fatal to the Peach crop than are cold day s
in winter. A frosty^situation is to be avoid
124
POPULAR GARDENING.
March,
ed, yet an open exposure Is often preferable
to a site sheltered on all sides by woods, etc.
The growth in the spring should be rather
retarded than forwarded. Sand or sandy
loam is preferable to other soils. A clover
sod plowed in fall and fitted for Corn is
excellent for Peaches. The first two years
after the orchard is started, plant it to Corn,
then to Rye or Bnckwheat, these latter
crops to be plowed in. Clean cultivation
should be given year after year, in dry
seasons until middle of August. Feed the
trees plentifully, as Peaches will not bear
neglect. Plant the old standard sorts that
are tested all over and found reliable. New
sorts are, however, constantly added to the
list. Popular in Michigan are Louise Seed-
ing, Crane's Yellow, Early Barnard, Jacques
Rareripe, Hill's Chili, Smock. Early Craw-
ford is not prolific enough.
Before planting trim to a whip, and cut
back to three or four feet in length. The
cuts on branches should not be close, but
rather a little ways from the tree. During
growth remove all superfluous sprouts.
Once or twice a year make a thorough
search for borers. When fruit sets, it
should be carefully thinned by hand,
begining with the early sorts and continuing
to the latest. Let the fruit remain three or
four inches apart on each limb. Really
good fruit can not otherwise be grown.
Peaches are always of best quality when
ripened on the tree, and the nearer to full
maturity they could be left on the trees, the
better the market will like them. If possi-
ble market without the assistance of middle-
men. For home market leave Peaches on
the tree until they begin to ripen. For dis-
tant market be sure that there are no soft
specimen in the package. Always handle
the fruit like eggs, and never shake it out
of one package into another. A good tree
well taken care of should produce one
bushel of fruit.
Peacli culture in Michigan and Ontario is
justified to the fullest extent that transpor-
tation chances are at command. The
yellows began to trouble in 1877. The first
indication of the tree being affected is the
flesh turning red. It does not at first show
in leaf or otherwise. Mr. Taylor began his
warfare against the disease by cutting
down 40 trees out of 300; next year he cut
down six of those remaining, and since then
he has had little yellows in his orchard. In
other localities, where the trees were doc-
tored and kept, the disease has kept on
spreading, until now Michigan growers
generally are convinced that cutting down
every tree at the first sign of the disease is
the best and cheapest policy. It wipes out
the yellows at short notice. Mr. Taylor
tears out the tree even if he finds but a
single diseased Peach among healthy ones
on it. He has, however, no evidence that
the yellows can be transferred from one
tree to another by means of pruning tools.
The law requires the tree to be burned. The
roots are dug out in the fall. If the trees
and stumps are left in the land, the trouble
seems to remain and spread.
In the discussions following this paper,
the essayist advises to search for the borer
in early spring and again in summer, also
to paint the bodies of trees with white-
wash flavored with carbolic acid.
It cultivation is stopped too early in the
season, say in July, especially in dry
weather, the wood will ripen too early and
develop fruit buds too.soon. The cultivator
should go four inches deep. The round
basket, with so-called "rail-road" cover
(two slats crossing each other) has proved
to be a very serviceable package.
Sec'y Woolverton says he used to plant
30 feet apart. Now he plants 13 feet each
way. Keeps the tree in bush form, closely
pruned. Thus they occupy the ground
better, keep in better health, produce more
young, bearing wood, and consequently
more fruit, not to speak of the advantages
of the chances of thinning and picking vrith
greater ease and comfort. The trees have
been liberally fed with wood ashes, and the
results have pleased him very much. This
fertilizer seems to affect color, size and per-
haps the flavor. He prunes in March or
early in April, cutting the young growth
back severely. Where the branches are
long and straggling, the old wood is cut
back also. Unleached wood ashes are ap-
plied yearly at the rate of one-half bushel
to the tree. Thinning would pay, but he
can not find the time to do it.
The Borer. Sec'y Woolverton tries to
keep borers out altogether, as it is tco much
trouble to hunt for them every year. The
eggs, laid near the ground, hatch in June,
July and August. About June 1st a mound
of earth is heaped up around each tree, and
the young borer will be kept off from the
only part where it can enter, namly at the
surface of ground where the bark is soft.
Since adopting this plan, Mr. Woolverton
has had no more trouble with the borer.
A member states that weak lye, or some
other alkaline wash applied to the bodies of
Apple trees about June 1st, has always
done good service for him in disposing of
the Apple tree borer.
The Peach in Essex County. Mr. Wm.
Mitchell says the greatest trouble here is
the borer. Among good varieties for that
locality are named Reeves' Favorite, Smock,
Chair's Choice. The Crawford is not pro-
ductive enough. Old Mixon is a fine Peach,
but he can not get it to bear. Tyhurst's
Seedling is a fine local variety, in fact the
best in this section, and seems to reproduce
itself from seed like the Wager.
Mr. S. D. Willard of New York says the
troxible with the Crawford is that the buds
are too tender to endure our severe winters.
Mr. Baldwin says Stump the World is one
of the best varieties in Essex' Co. Most of
his trees are seedlings, and he finds them
more profitable than the uncertain, mixed
and unreliable lots bought of agents.
Pres. A. M. Smith says Crawford is the
standard in the eastern section of Ontario.
Good sorts are, for early, Alexander, which
is about the same as Amsden's June, Shoe-
maker, Early Canada,etc.; for .second Early
Rivers; filling a gap, Hale's Early; for later
Crawford's Early, Wager, Longhurst. This
latter is a local variety of which he thinks
very highly. It is productive, of fair size,
and altogether reliable in that section.
Late Crawford is good when you can get it
to bear. Steven's Rareripe is Old Mixon
right over, only from .seven to ten days later
and a better bearer. Wheatland is a shy
bearer. Foster is similar to early Crawford,
perhaps a little rounder, and higher colored.
Mr. S. D. Willard speaks highly of
Steven's Rareripe, which was introduced
probably 30 years ago. but again lost sight
of. Comes just before Smock. Tree hardy,
fruit white-fleshed, large and fine. A stand-
ard variety. Salway is too late for Geneva,
N. Y. Hyne's surprise is one of the
earliest sorts, and an absolute freestone.
Pear Culture. Mr. McMichael reports
that he now grows only standards, since the
dwarfs were not satisfactory. Thorough
underdraining made his orchards produc-
tive. The fruit is thinned by means of a
pair of sheep shears. Applies barnyard
manure in sprmg and ashes in fall, As a
preventive of fungus diseases and insect
attacks his orchard is sprayed with solutions
of hyposulphite of soda and Paris green.
Mr. Willard's opinion is that all lauds for
Pears should be uuderdrained unless pro-
vided with a natural drainage. Heavy
soils are probably better fitted for Dwarf
Pears than for standards.
In reply to the query— Should the vigor-
ous watershoots be cut off, Sec'y Woolver-
ton says if it is a branch wanted, encourage
it — otherwise remove it.
Mice and Rabbits in Orchard. A mem-
ber states that if one of the wire screen pro-
tectors, now manufactured and put on sale
by a firm in London, Ont., is sprung around
the bodyof a tree, the latter needs no further
attention, and saves all trouble. They only
cost two or three cents apiece. Another
member suggests putting a few stooks of
Cornstalks in the orchard, and placing some
poisoned bait under it. This has proveed
effective for mice.
Mr. Taylor, of Michigan, uses common
tarred .building paper. When put around
the tree and tied, it hardens and will remain
for years.
CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
EIGHTH PAPER.
DR. J. STAliTIAN, LEAVE.N'WORTH, KANSAS.
Our system of pruning is particularly
adapted to vines cut off at the ground as a
preventive for Grape rot. As soon as the
shoots from the old stem have made a
growth of about twenty inches, select two
of the strongest canes and pinch or cut
them off at the height of first wire, then
cut off all others close to the stem. These
canes must be left without their laterals
being checked throughout the whole season,
but all the suckers or shoots from the
stems must be cut off close to the stalks
as often as they appear. This timely pinch-
ing and removing suckers will force out
from the dormant buds lateral canes which
are shorter jointed, smaller in size, with
better developed buds, and producing much
finer fruit. These canes should be tied up
in the vacant space as they grow.
In pruning those tor fruiting, select two
of the strongest canes with well developed
buds, and cut them four feet long for a
strong full-bearing vine, cutting away all
others. This length we would recommend
for Concord and all of that class of equal
growth and productiveness ; but for such as
Cynthiana, Norton, Herman and Ozak the
canes should be longer, and for Delaware
much shorter, say two canes eighteen inches
long. These three classes represent all the
varieties we have worth mentioning.
This method of cutting off vines may be
considered a loss, and some may hesitate to
adopt it, but they will find it will pay in
extra productiveness, quality of fruit and
exemption from rot.
If we were setting a new vineyard of
Concord tirapes by the common method of
doing it, we would lay off the ground in
rows six or eight feet apart according to the
location, and then set the vines in the rows
four feet apart and erect a trellis with two
wires, and train every alternate vine to the
lower wire and the others to the upper wire,
with two canes to a vine, each four feet long.
This would fill both when in full bearing,
and as soon as we discovered rot, would cut
dovra clear into the groimd every alternate
vine in the rows, and train up renewal canes
as we have herein directed to fill the vacant
places. The next season after we would
cut down the other half and treat them in
like manner.
This alternate cutting off the vines and
renewing them we would recommend every
second or third year, and then we would
always have good fruit and no Grape rot,
and each year a full crop.
We have now given two methods of
growing Grapes to prevent rot, either of
which is more simple and effective than
spraying with .solutions, and collecting the
diseased berries to keep the spores under
subjection. The fact is they have no power
to destroy Grapes vipon perfectly healthy
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
125
vines under the conditions we have named.
Grapes do not rot on young vines that are
even fairly treated until they are overcrowd-
ed, then they commence to rot and continue
getiinj: worse from year to year until en-
tirely worthless. This is the history of the
disease as far as we have examined it.
All American Grapes with foreign blood
are subject to rot, such as Concord, Catawba
and those usually classed as Labrusca with
large bunches as well as all hybrids and
crosses of hybrids, but the pure Labrusca
as the native Fox Grape, and the pure ^sti-
valis as the Norton, are not subject to rot.
From the crosses of these two species we
must look for Grapes free from rot.
We have a few now as the Xorton, Cyn-
thiana, Jewel and Herman that are free
from rot, and can be grown by ordinary
methods but they are all improved by high
and thorough cultivation.
From a letter received from a practical
Grape grower in New York we fear some of
our readers may not fully understand what
we have said in our fifth article. The cuts
in that article show clearly how every alter-
nate vine is trained up to the upper wire
from the lower one; consequently the fruit
spui-s are down at the lower wire, but the
next year following, the spurs should be
just below the upper wire and the lower
spurs cut entirely away as they are of no
further use.
In some eases we train on the fan system
which is in effect very nearly the same as
we have given, except in all cases the arms
or renewal canes are started near the lower
wire, and spread out from that point each
way in the form of a curve, tied to the lower
and upper wire as most convenient. This
method, however, cannot be adopted when
vines are planted close together in the rows
as this paper recommends.
COMMENTS BY READERS.
A departinent to tchivh all are invited to send notes
of experience and obsen-ation concerning topics that
recently fiave been treated on m this joumai. Many
sxich contributions monthly are welcome.
Heattng Greenhouses. The method of
creating a temporary draught shown and illus-
trated on page 74, while losing 90 per cent of
the heat, is not in harmonr with scientific prin-
ciples. The chimney will draw the smoke, when
fire is first started, with a will through the entire
flue, if the latter is built of uniform size through-
out. The attempt to crowd the smoke through
the round tile which is not one-half the size of
the brick Uue, cannot be done with success. On
the contrary, e.vperts tell us, that chimneys must
not l>e contracted, but rather expanded as they
approach the top, and greenhouse flues offer no
exceptions to this rule. A number of years ago,
two greenhouses, each 40 feet long and 16 feet
wide, were built by two neighbors, one— an
amateur— who used the best material and con-
structed the flues 80 feet in length, three bricks
high and covered with tile. It alwa.vs worked
to his satisfaction, and on the coldest mornings
the heat could be seen radiating from the top of
his chimney. The other house built by a niu^ery-
man was also a lean-to, with a similar flue, with
this exception, however, that the flue was de-
pressed to two bricks in height, instead of three,
and this size was continued for 20 feet to the
chimney. The draught was always sluggish.
One cold afternoon in January, frost commenced
to gather on the lower sash bar, and rum was
foreshadowed. Something must be done and
that right early. The amateur was consulted
and the result of the inter\new was immediatelv
put in practice. First a brick was removed
where the depressed flue began and a Ught of
glass was laid in its place. This showed the
smoke as filling the extra flue, but scarcely
moving toward the chimney; the top bricks were
removed as the work progressed and another
brick was added to the height, until the entire
flue was of one uniform size. Instead of the
last brick, the same light of glass was laid on in
order to note the result. The smoke instead of
being eight Inches thick and mortng at snails
space, now thinned down to a half inch at the
bottom and passed rapidly on to chimney. The
gathering ice soon disappeared from the lower
glass and the working of that furnace was ever
afterwards declared perfect. —X IV. Adams, Afoss.
That Vegetable Gkowers' Association.
This is certainly a society that would be appreci-
ated by the progressive gardener. Xow when
attending horticultural meetings he hears pomo-
logical, floral, and forestry matters expounded
by older members, until it gets to be tiresome to
many of the younger ones, and although they
may be deeply interested in knowing some im-
portant facts in other garden products, no time
is found to discuss an.v such points. The inquirer
will probabl.v be told to ask the Experiment
Stations. These Stations are doing a noble work
and it is appreciated, but some of the particular
points in the progressive gardener's line, they do
not experiment upon, or at least, do not report,
therefore he must spend perhaps years in experi-
menting for himself, where if there were a
society interested in these same particular lines,
to which he could go and hear such matters dis-
cussed, it might save him much labor and
expense. There are garden products that could
be grown in this state (r>hio) which are now
being shipped largely early in the season, from
the south. At least 8100.000 was taken out of
the state in 188;) for Tomatoes alone. It is true,
we could not save all this to the state, but cer-
tainly a portion of it by the intelligent handling
of an "artificial climate," Strawberries are
coming from. the south to our northern markets
in .January, and other garden truck soon follows.
Certainly this must be an eye-opener to the pro-
gressive gardener. If we do not study, and
learn the best process, to advance our climate,
by artificial heat, etc , we are going to get left
on early truck. We are indeed "in need of
more light, such light as is shed by free discus-
sions at meetings of people skilled in this par-
ticular branch of horticulture, "~iV,, Ohio.
Beans and Corn. The remark of Mr. Powell
upon the tendencj' which ;many of his Bean
seedUngs showed to run to pods altogether and
produce no seed, reminds me of a somewhat
similar experience, years ago, with Indian Com.
My efforts were directed toward the production
of as many ears to the stalk as possible, quite
overlooking the necessity of pollen, or rather
supposing that Nature would keep up that end-
In five years, by selection onl.v, I produced an
average of eight long ears to the stalk, or cobs
rather, for most of the tassels at the top pro-
duced small shapeless kernels instead of pollen,
and the kernels on the ears were almost entirely
lacking for want of fertilization.
Amaktllis Belladonna. I should hardly
give the advice as to this plant whieh I find on
page 94 of January issue I think that there are
ver.v many failures with it from the supposed
necessity of annual repotting. After the foliage
has died down the pot should be laid on its side
in a perfectly dry place, as hot as sunlight can
make it. Do not allow a drop of water to reach
the sod in which the bulb is until September 1st,
unless the flower bud should begin to push be-
fore that date. At that time give a little water
and, two days after, a good soaking. The flower
spike will push vigorously and the lovely flowers
will remain a long time in perfection. Do not be
alarmed about the tardiness of the leaves, the,v
will appear in due time and grow all winter,
drying off in May. By no means disturb the
bulb. It will increase by offsets and become
finer every year. When the pot is crowded, plant
ball of earth and all in a large pot. If the flowers
after a while are not quite as good as they were,
remove the soU above the bulbs and supply its
place with fresh. A top dressing of fine manure
is also helpful in such a case.— TT. E. EnOicott.
Oriental Pears as Dwarfs. All the Pears
will grow on the Quince a few years, but the
structure of the wood is so dissimilar that the
elaborated iSap does not readily return to the
roots to properly nourish them, and consequentl.v
they are starved and the trees so worked make a
smaller growth each succeeding year until they
finally die. But where double worked they make
as good trees on the Quince as any Pear that I
know of. That the Bartlett and other sorts
should act in the same way when worked on Le
Conte or other Oriental Pears as a stock is more
than I can undei-stand. But if so, I would very
much like to know it for I planted out a large
lot of Le Contes last spring intending to let them
grow one or two years and then graft Bartlett
and other varieties on them. I believe the
Oriental Pears do well grafted on other varieties.
I have Garber and Kieffer growing on Mount
Vernon and I do not see why they should not
do well when the operation is reversed. I see
Mr. Jeffery speaks of having Le Conte Pear trees
grown from cuttings. I know they are grown
from cuttings in the south where they can grow
many things in that wa.v that we cannot here.
I last year tried some Le Conte cuttings and all
faile.1 to grow. If they can be grown from
cuttings here would like to know it. I did suc-
ceed in getting some Marianna Plums to grow
from cuttings.
Grafting English Walnuts. I think Mr.
Bowers will find that his English Walnuts that
he grafted on the Black Walnut will only grow a
few years making a smaller growth each suc-
ceeding year owing to the too great difference
between the cion and stock. I have seen the
same experiment tried before and it always re-
sulted in complete failure.
Shiawassee BE-itrrv Apple. I saw this on
the Missouri Agricultural College farm, and
from the specimens seen conclude that it is all
Mr Lyon claims for it and should be more ex-
tensively grown.
Ancient Briton Blackberrt. All the
evidence I can get indicates that this is a most
excellent Blackberry for the extreme northern
states, but with us, although a very fine berry, it
is not reliable in tlie matter of productiveness;
sometimes yielding good crops but oftener not.
It has been tried here and found unprofitable.—
E. A. Riehl lllinnU^.
Grape Hot. Dr Stay man is quite positive he
has found the remedy for Grape rot, and alleges
that " the same result has followed here and else-
where, wherever vines were cut back to the
ground. I regret to have to say that this else-
where does not reach Atlantic county, X J,
where the same thing has been done without
these desirable results. When Moore's Early
first came out, a neighbor, Mr. J. O. Kansom, a
nurseryman, cut off at and below the ground, a
number of varieties of Grapes and grafted with
Moore's Early. Many grafts failed, but strong
suckers came up precisely as with Dr. Stayman.
These grew so well that he trained to stakes (our
usual method here), but when they fruited they
rotted just as badly as the older vines not cut off.
In the spring of ISSB I set out about 1,000 Moore's
Early. As vines were then high, and wishing to
propagate as fast as possible, I layered the first
summer's growth, and also the second, except
one cane to the hill. This fruited the third sum-
mer but the fruit nearly all rotted. I got but
fourteen baskets, and they were of very broken
clusters. Last summer, the fourth, I did not
get a basket fit for market. The Grapes were
set as the first crop, on land just cleared from
the forest, and no Grapes raised within half a-
mile to spread infectious matter. As bagging
makes them late, and also gives poor results, and
spraying is only an imperfect remedy, and both
too expensive to be warranted by the low mar-
ket prices, I am digging up my later settings of
layers, for why cumber the ground any longer
for a crop that does not even pay for the strings
to tie the vines up. The last two seasons have
been very rainy. New crops have paid well, but
Grapes worst of all —P. H. Brown.
Buckwheat in Orchard. Buckwheat does
even more than your article claims. In this
southern cUmate it is one of the best things that
I ever struck. Last year I got a pound of the
Japanese variety and planted it the last week in
April. We were then just entering on what
proved to be an exceptionall.v long dry spell, but
the Buckwheat made a crop in six weeks without
a drop of rain My bees found it a veritable
Godsend. I made four good crops from this
small beginning, and could have made a fifth if
I had taken care of my last planting, but being
so near winter 1 let it go. On going over the
field I find some of it in bloom again, it having
grown from the di-opped seed. I beUeve with
judicious management we can make seven
crops a year from it in this mild climate, and it
is a good paying crop in every way you take it.
By turning under every second crop, you enrich
the soil in an effective and inexpensive way, and
you clear the land of cutworms and grubs, — C.
K. Maequarrie, Florida.
Birds and Frctt. I think the pans of water
in berry patches to keep birds from eating fruit
as spoken of in Popular Gardening, useless,
for there were httle ditches of water all through
our garden, and a large trough near, last sum-
mer, and the birds could oidy be kept from the
berries with netting. They love the fruit. — Jlrs.
I. L. B., Ariz.
126
POPULAR GARDENING.
March,
Growing Strawberries for MarVcet.
First Paper.
L. J. FARMER, ORANGE CO., N. J.
Location. In grosving Strawberries for
market much after-labor may be avoided
by selecting a suitable location and soil. In
open places unsheltered from the driving
winds, plants are often injured in the winter
even through a thick mulch. In blossoming
time heavy wiuds will blow away the pollen
and thus the blossoms are improperly fer-
tilized. A piece of woods, a row of trees,
the farm buildings, or if nothing better, a
high, loose fence, will catch the snow and
furnish the protection needed.
Frosts occur more frequently and cause
more damage on low ground and hemmed in
on all sides by woods. An elevated position,
sulliciently open to allow a free circulation
of air, which lends to drive away frosts and
to assist in the distribution of pollen, Is
most desirable. Slope has much to do in
hastening or retarding the time of ripening
of the fruit. A level surface is easier of cul-
tivation, and the berries ripen more evenly.
Other things being equal, a southern slope
produces earlier fruit, whUe a northern ex-
posure produces fruit later.
Soils. Sandy soils require less skill in
handling, and are more easily worked than
clay. The ideal soil for Strawberry growing
is a combination of all soils; sandy loam
most nearly approaches that. It always
produces a fair crop of berries that ripen
medium early, bringing fair prices. Light,
sandy soils produce a small crop of extra
early berries, which on account of earliness
bring high prices. Unless the season be
wet the later part of the crop may not pay
for the harvesting.
Sometimes the roots extend down several
feet in search of fertility and moisture, and
thus the plants are better able to stand the
drouth. At the foot ot hills and along small
streams may sometimes be found moist,
sandy soils that always produce a large crop
of medium late fruit of the largest size.
Such soil cannot be surpassed tor Strawberry
growmg. As sand does not heave, plants
may be set at any time, even late in the tall
or at open spells in the winter, and thus a
better growth secured the next.
Strawberries grown on sand are better
colored, firmer and in proportion to their
size, bring better prices in.market than those
grown on clay or heavy soils. Clay soils
retain moisture, and when well under-
drained endure the drouth better than sand.
It requires considerable experience and
skill to know the exact time to work clay.
It should never be stirred when too wet,
else it will bake into a solid mass, nor when
too dry, as it will then turn up in great lumps.
Some clay soils are too heavy for growing
Strawberries, in fact, fit only for making
brick. The value of clay is in proportion to
the amount of other soils mixed with it.
Clay loam forms a very productive soil, in
fact when rightly treated, the largest and
most paying crops are grown thereon. A
very light freeze will disturb plants on clay,
and they should be mulched early and deep,
keeping them covered till growth starts in
the spring following.
Muck. When thoroughly decomposed
and incorporated with other soils, muck
forms an admirable mixture for Strawberry
growing. The largest crops of some varieties
we ever grew, notably so the old Chas.
Downing, were produced on muck mixed
with clay. But as muck is only found
in low places, one runs a great risk in plant-
ing it to Strawberries, for in addition to the
otherreasons given lor avoiding low ground.
If the season is wet it may be impossible to
get on the patch to hoe or to gather the fruit.
Better to cart the muck to higher ground
and incorporate with other soils. Stony
soils have the advantage of being well
elevated, thereby facilitating drainage. Be-
ing naturally strong, with a judicious use
of fertilizers and muscle, a large crop may
almost always be secured. Instead of roll-
ing over the stones from year to year, as
some people do, the largest ones should be
removed each year as the plow brings them
to the surface. We have spent hundreds of
dollars in picking stones and underdraining
a few acres of such land, but are annually
repaid with large crops. I believe the small
stones improve its value, for when removed
the soil becomes cold and clammy, conse-
quently less productive.
PREPAR.\TIoy OF SolL A-vD MANLTRING.
With us the preparation and fertilization of
the soil for Strawberries begins two years
previous to setting out the plants. Taking
old meadow land, a heavy coat of manure
is applied in the spring, plowed under and
the ground planted to Corn the first year
and Potatoes the next. Good cultivation is
given and the weeds all destroyed, that the
ground may be clean for the Strawberries
that follow. The frequent cultivation given
to these crops prevents the May beetle from
laying its eggs in the soil, and also turns up
whatever white grub may be in it, when the
birds and poultry soon dispatch them.
After the Potatoes are dug the land is
plowed in the fall and cross-plowed in the
spring, when all large stones are dug out
and removed. A coat of ashes is now ap-
plied and the ground thoroughly harrowed
both ways, so as to refine the soil and make
the surface level . The last harrowing should
be crossways the direction that the rows are
to run, so that the mark will show.
We find there is nothing better to secure
a good healthy growth of plants than well-
rotted barn manure. Ashes increase the
quantity of the fruit, make it better colored
and firmer. Superphosphates are also val-
uable. We apply phosphates by sifting on
the rows of plants when the leaves are dry,
preferring a small application repeated sev-
eral times, to applying all at one time. If
put on when there is dew or rain on the
leaves it will burn and injure them. What
lodges on the plants is removed by brushing
ott with a broom. As soon as possible after
applying the phosphate it is hoed in.
Fresh horse manure may be applied the
year of setting out the plants to heavy clay
soils and plowed under, when it tends to
warm and liven up the ground.
If manure is applied just before setting
out the plants, one should be sure it is free
from grubs and weed seeds, or else trouble
will follow. We once had a trial plat of new
varieties almost ruined by grubs from the
rotted manure, applied before setting the
plants. Horse manure is more free from
grubs than any other.
The Snowy Tree Cricket— A Friend
More than a Foe.
The tree cricket has always been classed
among the "insects injurious to fruits," and
we have often been called upon to publish
means how to prevent its ravages. Now it
seems that instead of responding to such
requests, we should have pleaded for the
cricket's protection. In a recent number
of "Insect Life," Mary E. Murtfeldt states
that the food habits of the tree cricket are
strictly carnivorous. They are accused of
cutting into and sipping the juices of various
fruits, of severing the berries from Grape
clusters, and even of cutting the latter from
the vines, says Miss Murtfeldt. In the pro-
cess of oviposition also they are charged
with the destruction of Grape and Rasp-
berry canes and the twigs of various fruy,
trees by their punctures and by crowding
the pith with their eggs. The latter charge
is irrefutable; but when we consider the
amount ot wood that it is necessary to re-
move from vines and trees annually, the
few trees punctured by these insects should
not be allowed to count against them. As
to their injuries to growing fruit, all my ob-
servations upon them in the rearing cage
prove that at no stage of their existence can
they subsist upon vegetable food, either
fruit or foliage. When deprived of other
insects for their sustenance, they perished.
Early in .June of last year I had a colony
of (E. niveus hatch from Apple twigs, about
a dozen in all, and I kept them under con-
stant observation on my writing-desk. Dur-
ing the day they remained almost motion-
less in one position, if possible concealed
from light and sight on the under side or in
the folds of a leaf. They were, from the
first, supplied with various berries and ten-
der leaves, but evidently never touched
them for food. On the morning of the
fourth day two or three were dead, and
showed signs of having been nibbled by
their hungry brothers. Some leaves of
Plum infested with a delicate species of yel-
low aphis were then put into the jar, but
attracted no immediate attention. As twi-
light deepened, however, the crickets awak-
ened to greater activity. By holding the
jar against thelightof the window or bring-
ing it suddenly into the lamp light, the lit-
tle nocturnal hunters might be seen hurry-
ing, with a furtive, darting movement over
the leaves and stems, the head bent down,
the antennae stretched forward, and every
sense apparently on the alert. Then the
aphides provided for their food would be
caught up one after another with eagerness,
and devoured with violent action of the
mouthparts, the antennaj meanwhile play-
ing up and down in evident expression of
satisfaction. Unless I had provided very
liberally, not an aphis would be found in the
jar the next morning, and the sluggish
crickets would have every appearance of
plethora. Later on in their lives, by reduc-
ing them to the point of starvation, I re-
peatedly made them feed in the daytime, so
that I might the more distinctly observe
the process, which is certainly interesting.
The growth of the insects is very slow.
Wings were not acquired until late in Au-
gust, and at this time I again attempted to
change their diet to fruit. Grapes, Plums,
etc., an experiment that resulted in the
death of all but three of my specimens.
Those which remained, fed for about two
weeks longer upon Oak Tinriis, Aphis jjop-
!((/, and on a brownish aphis which infested
the new shoots of Grape, but neither of the
two males essayed any musical perform-
ances, nor would the single female that
reached its perfect state puncture any of
the twigs that were furnished her, and all
three died long before those out of doors
had ceased to sing.
During the present summer my attention
was again attracted to these insects by find-
ing them so constantly and numerously on
Oaks infested with P/iy;((i.i't'roiJi!(;/(. Every
leaf dotted by the aphis would have its tree
cricket in addition to various smaller foes.
The species most commonly seen was CE
Intipinnis, distinguished to casual observa-
tion by its somewhat larger size and by the
brilliant orange red or red and yellow dorsal
stripe of the pupae. The size and the broader
wings sufficiently characterize the mature
insect. A close examination reveals many
less obvious distinctions between the two.
I found that one specimen of UScnnthus
would clear the PhyUox-era from a large
Oak leaf in the course of a single night when
confined to one leaf. On one occasion one
of the crickets ate two saw-flies which had
emerged in the jar. I have also had them
feed upon various kinds of small leaf hop-
pers and tingids, and am convinced that
they are thoroughly and constantly carniv-
erous and therefore a valuable ally in re-
ducing the number of our smaller insects.
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
127
HOW TO PLANT A PLACE.
A BRIEF ILLUSTRATED GUIDE SUITED TO POPULAR USE.
By One of Our Staff.
Some Reasons for
Pl.wting.
1. It pays for the in-
crt<t»cd valttcimpartcd
■ to hinil.
Trees possess great
value. Certain fine
shade and fruit trees
are called to mind
which cost their owners
not three dollars apiece
all told, but which to-
day would not be
.spared for .*.300 apiece.
' Railroads taking plant-
ed lands often pay from -$30 to ?300 each for
trees occupying the same. The writer knows
of setiO apiece having been awarded to the
owner for large Elm trees that stood on
some land that was needed for a certain
town park.
The planting of these trees paid enorm-
ously. For besides the money realized in
the sales alluded to, the trees had previously
given priceless delight in shade, shelter and
beauty over many years. The cost was as
nothing. Such returns often follow on judic-
ious planting.
2. It pays for the better living and increased
comforts that may spring from planted
grounds.
The free use not only of fruits but also of
choice vegetables should be en joy ed by every
family in the land daily the year round.
The children especially should be treated to
all the luscious fruits, fresh and preserved,
that they may desire to eat— none should be
deprived of the light and excellent food to be
found in the choice culinary vegetables so
easily grown.
Many troublesome diseases are unknown
to the free users ot a largely vegetable diet.
The value of fruit is clearly shown by this:
that settlers in a new country improve in
health as their orchards begin to yield freely.
Statisticians prove beyond any doubt that
people on an average live longer now than
for many centuries past. Lay that fact to
from wintry storms. In the summer life for
all is made more pleasant for the comfort
that is found in the shade of trees.
3. It pays in the profits that may he derived
from the sale of surplus products.
Our population living in towns and villages
become ready buyers from those who have
a surplus. On this account the judicious
The one attracts with an irresistible charm,
the other is forbidding in a measure.
A costly house never can make up for a
lack of trees. One that i- inexpensive but
neat, with handsome garden surroundings,
shows to far better advantage than a home
costing double the money, but without the
advantages of trees, lawn and flowers about.
The wise home-maker accomplishes more by
investing three-fourths of his money for im-
provements in buildings and one-fourth in
good planting than by putting nearly all
into the house, leaving but a few dollars
for the grounds.
When one tries to sell he may find this out.
We must not forget that our attachments to
trees and plants becomes almost as strong
t^i
Fig. 1. A new place unimproved as regards tree planting.
culture of both fruits and vegetables is
among the most profitable branches of land
tillage. Tens of thousands of gardeners and
fruit growers all over our land derive larger
incomes from their small plats of less than
ten acres each devoted to these crops, than
does the average farmer from his many
acres given to farm crops.
A neighbor of the writer's, from a Bartlett
Pear orchard of less than two acres clears
upwards of -?1,000 year after year on his crop
The annual sales from an acre of Strawl
berries in the vicinity of thriving towns or
villages is seldom less than *300, and often
reaches -$400 to -?S00 in case the labor is done
by the owner's family.
Many a farmer with one-fourth of his land
devoted to a well-managed Apple orchard
obtains larger profits from that part than
from the entire three-fourths of his farm
besides. The demand for choice fruits at
paying prices is constantly growing: it will
be a long while before aU of our rapidly
Fig
The same as Fig. 1, but embellished with trees, shrubs, vines, orchards, etc.
the increasing use of fruits and vegetables
in all civilized lands.
The presence of trees about a place con-
tribute greatly to the comfort of man and
beast. A dense belt of trees, especially Ever-
greens, to the windward of a home will save
the consumption of many an additional ton
of coal in keeping the residence to an agree-
able temperature. A similar gain comes in
the saving of feed and theincreased thriftof
live stock in stables, that are well sheltered
increasing population will be the free con-
sumers of fruit that they should be.
4. It pays for the increased beauty and
interest which trees, shrubs and plants
are capable of giving.
We have only to compare the desirability
of any home [planted with a profusion of
ornamental and fruit trees, shrubs, vines
and plants, with the same or similar grounds
(as for instance a new home) devoid of these.
as to persons. Were parents to providetrees,
shrubs and flowers freely about the home,
and encourage their children to love, to
study and to care for them, they would be
bestowing the source of the highest, purest
and most constant enjoyment, and of health
and ruggedness besides.
Latixg Out the Pi.anting.
5. Work by plan from the beginning.
This should, as regards all the main feat-
ures, be decided upon ahead of the selection
of the planting stock or of operations on the
land. Then the details can be carried out
step by step, whether done in one year or
over several years.
6. Crowd nothing. Crowding leads to crip-
ples.
Have the full-grown tree, shrub or plant
in your mind's eye, as you plan for the young
slender stocks from the nursery or from the
plant bed. Many orchards when they should
be at their best are failures, because the
trees are crowded.
Street and lawn trees often stand so close
that if one-half or two-thirds of their num-
ber were removed the distance would be
right for those remaining. Crowded trees
never can develop into magnificent speci-
mens, one of which would be worth a dozen
that are injured by crowding. Compare
Figures 3 and 4.
The fault of crowding is a common one,
and attended with much injury in the cul-
ture of shrubs, vines and plants, even those
of the vegetable garden (see Fig. 5). It
should by all means be avoided.
Crowding trees against buildings and
walks (see Fig. 6) is a common fault, which
arises from not having future size in mind
when the young trees are set. In the case
of buildings, it renders them damp, dark
and tmhealthy, leading also to decay of
the woodwork.
To early relieve the barren appearance of
any place, plant the better kind of trees, etc.,
at a suitable distance for them permanently,
and then fill in more ordinary and rapid
growing kinds between, to be removed as
the others require the space. Young Elm
trees, for instance, set along the street at 3.5
feet apart mayappear scant. But by putting
some quick-growing Poplars, Silver Maples
Copyrighted, 1890, by the Poptilar Gardening Publishina Co.
128
POPULAR GARDENING.
March,
or Alders between, to be cut out after a few
years, will give a better early effect. Still,
if the writer thought that in any case the
cutting out would be neglected later, he
would never recommend such a course. A
rich soil and high culture are wonderful fac-
J<li£t. 3. A tree grown without crowding. See No. 6.
tors in so pushing ahead tree growth, that a
newly planted place will soon look well em-
bellished.
Following is a schedule of distances for
planting, the larger figures having regard to
planting under high culture and fertility,
the others to conditions less favorable.
7. Distitnccs apart for fruit trees.
Apple.— Standard 30 to 40 feet; Standard, close
pruned or in rather dry soil, 25 feet; Pyramids on
Apple stock, 15 feet; Dwarf Standards on Doucain
stock, 10 feet; Dwarfs on Paradise stock, 6 to 8
feet.
Apricots— 16 to 18 feet,
Blackberries— 3 feet apart in rows 8 feet apart.
Cherries— Standard, 18 to 20 feet; Pyramids on
common stock, 15 by 15 feet. Pyramids on Maha-
leb stock Dwarls, and Morellos, 10 to 15 feet.
Currants — i to 5 feet.
Gooseberries— 4 to 5 feet.
Grapes— Moderate growers, 6 to 8 feet, strong,
10 to 15 feet.
Nectai-ines- 16 to 18
feet.
Peaches — 12 to 15
feet; on Plum stock,
9 feet.
Pears— Standards, 15
to 25 feet; Pyramids,
15 feet; Dwarfs on
Quince, 10 to 12 feet.
Plums — Standards,
15 feet; Pyramids, 8 to
10 feet.
Quinces— 6 to 8 feet.
Raspberries— 3 to 4
feet by 4 to 6 feet.
Strawberries — flill
culture, 15 to 18 in-
ches; In matted rows,
1 foot apart in rows,
3 feet.
8 — Distance apart
for ornamental
trees and shrubs.
Elms, 35 to 40 feet.
Oak and Horse
Chestnut, 30 to 35 feet.
Pig. i. What crowding Maples, Pine and
does to disfigure trees, forest trees generally.
The sketch w a fair sped- 25 to 30 feet.
men of hundreds of street Willows, Magnolias,
trees in Buffahi and other Alders Birch, Spruce,
towns. See No. 6. Hemlock, etc., 15 to 25
feet.
Mountain Ash, Shad Berry, Flowering Cherries,
15 to 18 feet.
Judas Tree, Dogwood Tree, Thorns, Junipers,
10 to 15 I'oet.
Lilacs, Sumachs, Aralias, Burning Bush, Althfpa
Syringia, Snowball. 0 to 10 feet.
'Weigelas, Bush Honeysuckles, Colutea, Privet,
Fig, 5. Beets thinned and unthinned.
Calycanthus, Rhododendrons, Flowering Cur-
rants, Japan Quince, 4 to 7 feet.
Forsythia, Barberry, Hydrangea, Spirffia, Hardy
Roses, Deutzias, Snowberry, Daphnes, 3 to 5 feet
Climbing shrubs or vines, 2 to 5 feet.
9. Distance), apart for seed-fjrown plants.
Beets, Onions, Spinach, Lettuce, Salsify, En-
dive, Garlic, Parsley, Pot Herbs, and in flowers,
Pansies, Portulacas, Sweet Alyssum, Candytuft,
etc., about 1 foot by from 2 to 6 inches apart
Turnips, Carrots, Parsnips, Celeriac, Chers'il,
and in flowers. Phlox, Petunia, Mignonette, etc.,
about l^j feet by 3 to 6 inches apart.
Peas, Beans, 2 feet by 2 to 4 inches apart.
Cabbage, Cauliflower, Celery (6 in . ), Sweet Coi-n,
Egg Plant, Pepper, Potatoes, Broccoli, about 3
feet by 1 to 3 leet apart.
Cucumbers, Tomatoes, Sweet Potatoes, Run-
ning Beans, Rhubarb, Summer Squash, about 4
feet a^<art both ways
Hills of Melons, Cucumbers, Squashes, etc.,
about 6 feet apart both ways.
10. Distances apart for vartons flowering
a)id ornamental }3lant^.
Pi^onies, Dahlias, Hardy Sunflowers and other
strong-growing plants, from 3 to 4 feet apart.
Asters, Balsams, Petunias, Lilies, etc., 1 to 3
feet apart.
The generality of annuals, 6 inches to 2 feet.
XI. Arrange the fruit and vegetable depart-
ment in straight lines, the ornamental in
curncs or irregxdar outlines, as a rule.
Orchards and gardens should be kept cul-
tivated, hence straight lines are both more
convenient and more pleasing here.
For trees the form of four (the square) or
the form of five (the quincunx) are the most
suitable, the first being shown in Fig. 7,
same trees, etc., arranged more naturally,
with curves and irregularity prevailing.
The improvement ia obvious. It cost no
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Fig. 6. Tlic ymall Evergreens seemed far enough
from the walk when they ivere planted but six
years of grrtwth showed the mistake. See No. 6.
more to plant by the better than by the
poorer plan.
13. Keep the center of the grass pints open.
The trees, shrubs and flowers should be
arranged towards the margins of the differ-
ent grass areas (as shown by Fig. 13), and
seldom in the interior (as showTi by Fig. 14).
Openness of center causes the lawn to wear
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Fig.7, Planting to the form Fig. 6. Plantino to the form Fig. 9. Planting large and small
of four or Square. See No. 11. of five or Quincunx. See No. 11. kinds together. See No. 11.
the latter by Fig. 8. Sometimes it is well
to plant by the arrangement shown in Fig.
9, namely, to set Apple trees in squares,
with Cherry, Pear and other smaller kinds
midway between.
Grape vines. Raspberries, Strawberries,
etc. , are usually set in lines running but one
way. Still if they are placed for lines cross-
wise also, it may enable the use of horse
labor both ways while the plants are young
with a great saving of labor.
For the vegetable plat avoid the common
square form, and instead employ one that is
longer than wide, running the rows the
longest way, and all parallel, so that the
bulk of the work may be done by horse
power. See Fig. 10.
The arrangement of the lawn is rather
less easy on the whole than is that of the
fruit and vegetable department, for here the
object is a tasteful, handsome effect, and
this requires some pains to produce. The
following rales, together with the illustra-
tions, should be of help to planters.
13. Oenerally avoid straight lines for the
laiun.
Nature teaches the lesson that irregularity
in the landscape or ornamental garden leads
to the most pleasing effects. Recall all the
beautiful natural scenery you have met;
and it is throughout devoid of straight lines.
Nature abhors straight lines.
Another point is this : The boundary
and building outlines in the vicinity of the
lawn and ornamental parts 'are usually per-
fectly straight, hence out of accord with
Nature's principle of effective arrangement.
To therefore have the lawn as pleasing as
possible all the more requires, that the lay-
ing out be done irregularly for offsetting or
relieving the effect of the existing straight
lines now too strong.
Figs. 11 and 12 impress this lesson. The
first shows shade and ornamental trees
arranged almost as one would lay out an
orchard, adding straight lines to straight
lines as found in buildings and boundaries.
The latter shows the same place and the
an air of repose, and which is one of the
greatest of garden charms. It also serves
to secure a better view of the beauty of the
subjects planted. These engravings show
the same lawn with the same trees and
shrubs used. The conclusion is clear.
14. Plant ornamental growths in groups
and masses.
This is the keynote of the natural style of
arrangement, and applies to trees, shrubs
and plants, even down to annual flowers;
all are finer for being in clumps.
As a rule the larger trees, and especially
Evergreens, should be planted towards the
boundaries, with smaller growers, shrubs
and plants more towards the interior. A
weeping or variegated tree, or a shade tree
may here and there be brought away from
the boundary for good effect. A lawn will
appear to be of greater size if some vistas
Fig. 10. The best form for the vegetable garden.
or views are kept open between the tree
and shrub groups towards the more distant
parts.
If there are some handsome outside views,
leave openings in the marginal plantings
for giving such a pretty setting. But if an
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
129
unpainted barn or other undesirable object
is within reach of the eye, shut it off by plac-
iuK some Evergreens in the line of vision.
, Tlie best effects are created by grouping
the various cla^ises together, as Roses with
Roses, Weigelas with Weigelas, Evergreens
with Evergreens, instead of scattering one
< lass all over the place.
Plant most thickly in the direction of pre-
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Fig. 11. Showing the efect of
having lawn trees, shrubs,
waJhs, etc., arranged in
straight lines. See No. 13.
vailing winds, not forgetting that this too
is the place for Evergreens.
15. Qraceful mrves contribvte beauty,
poorly defined ones arc abominahlc.
As a rule curves in walks should not be so
rounded as to induce one to cut across from
point to point. Should more than one bend
to the same side be desirable, let them
vary considerable in boldness in order not
to become serpentine, which is always ob-
jectionable. Fjgs. 1.5 and 16 show a bad and a
good form of walks, having several curves.
Let the borders of flowers, shrubs, etc., be
of curving outline. Curves here admit of a
little more elaboration than do those of
walks usually. St.il the same rule as re-
ferred to above and in the engravings should
apply.
Have but few gravel or other constructed
walks on the lawn, and these where much
used; elsewhere turf makes the most agree-
able walk.
In laying out curves, first describe them
with a rope, varying its position until the
curves are graceful and satisfactory, then
ileline with stakes until the border or walk
construction is done.
16. Do not undertake too 7nuch.
Have no more ornamental grounds than
can be well stocked and cared for, counting
month throughout the year. The following
classification will be of service in making a
selection of fruits and vegetables:
For xise in June, July, Augxist.
Cherries,
Apricots,
Pears,
Nectarines,
Beans,
Cabbage,
Turnips,
Tomatoes,
Squash.
For use in September, Oclnher
November.
Apples,
Celery,
Cabbage,
Potatoes,
Turnips,
Strawberries,
Currauts,
Plums,
Peaclies,
Peas,
Corn,
Raspberries,
Apples,
Grapes,
Lettuce,
Radishes,
Onions,
Potatoes,
Cauliflower,
Grapes,
Quinces,
Pears,
Tomatoes,
Beets,
Fig. 12. Showing the advant-
age of placing the features of
the lawn in irregular order
and employing curves.
Sweet Potatoes, Egg Plant,
Mushrooms, Carrots,
Pumpkin, Cauliflower.
For t(.«c in December, January,
Febmary.
Pears, Preserved fruits
Apples, Winter Squasli,
Cranberries, Rutabagas,
Nuts, Parsnips,
Turnips, Can-ots,
Salsify, Beets,
Cabbage, Winter Badish,
Onions, Celer.v,
Mushrooms.
For use in March, April, May.
Khubarb, Preserved fruit.
Asparagus, Porced Lettuce,
Winter Squash, Cabbage,
Dandelions, Beets,
Salsify, Scborozonera.
Apples, Spinach,
Nuts, Parsnips,
Carrots, Kale,
Forced Radishes.
Following are lists of some of the more
pleasing flowering trees, shrubs and plants,
classified according to their season of bloom:
Earliest Flowbkino, Usually Before
May. Slirubs. Mezeron Pink, Forsythia or
Golden Bell. Plants. Winter Aconite, Hellebore,
Snowdrops, Crocus, Pansies in frames.
May AND June Bloomers. Trees. Magnolias,
Red Bud or Judas Tree, White Dogwood, Horse
Chestnut, Yellow Wood or Cladastris, Snowy
Mesjiilus, Bird Cherry, Locusts, Thorns, Flower-
ing fruit trees. Shi-ubs. Currant, Azaleas, Bush
Fin. 13. TreC! arranged for having the center of
the gra^ plat kept agreeably open. See No. 13.
on the use of a lawn mower at intervals of
five to ten days apart in the growing season.
On small places do not plant the larger
growing trees, but rely chiefly on hardy
shrubs, vines and flowering plants.
Making the Selection of Planting
Stock.
1 7. Secure a smcccssion of products the year
round.
This can easily be done by keeping in view
such kinds as will mature for use month by
Fiti. U. Siarne as Fig. 13. Intl with the center of
the gras>^ plat objectionably I'lanttd. SeeNu. 13.
Honeysuckle, Japan Quince, Lilacs, Flowering
Plum and Almond, Early Spineas, Viburnums,
Tamarisk, Calycanthus, Deutzia, Mock Orange or
S.vringia, Roses, Weigelas, Clematis. Plants.
Tulips, Hyacinths, Narcissus, Pa?onies, Colum-
bines, Lily of the Valley, Garden Pinks, Hepatica,
Creeping Phloxes, Herbaceous Spiraeas. Violets,
Crown Imperials. Bleeding Heart, Oriental Pop-
pies, Lychnis, Periwinkle.
Summer and Early Autumn Bloomers.
Trees. Chestnut, Kolreuteria, Sumachs. Shritbs.
Althiea or Rose of Sharon, Clethra, Japan Cor-
chorus. Panicle-flowered Hydrangeas, Late
Spiricas, Smoke Bush, Trumpet Vine. Plants.
Monkshood, Milfoil, Japan Anemones, Golden-
spurred Columbine, Campanulas, Sweet Williams,
Plantain Lily, Day Lily, True Lilies in variety,
Hollyhocks, Spiderworts, Sun-flowers, Annuals,
Tender Plants.
Attraction in Fall and Winter. Trees.
Evergreens, White-barked Birches. Shriibs. Box
and other IJwarf Evergreens, Burning Bush, Ber-
berry, Wa,xberry, Witch Hazel. Piants. Chrys-
anthemums, Hellebores.
18. Set out freely of growths that will soon
yield crops or reach maturity.
The following lists will show the lengths
of time the various materials of a garden
require for producing ultimate results.
Things That Produce Well the First
Season. All culinary vegetables excepting Rhu-
barb, Asparagus, Globe Artichokes, and Sea Kale.
Annual flowers and bulbs. Strawberry plants
from the earliest runners, potted or otherwise,
if well set out in August, will bear almost a full
crop within eleven months following.
Evergreen trees, if well transplanted, usually
take on a mature look at once. Many shrubs
such as Hardy Hydrangeas, Rose of Stiaron or
Althaea, Roses, Weigelas, Summer and Fall
Spirseas. Clematis, usually flower freely the first
season if the planting be carefully done. Hardy
perennial pliints it set early in the spring for the
most p;n-t tii'wLT well the fii"st year.
A liiwn that is carefully prepared and sowed
with a mixture consisting half and half of Red
Top and Blue Grass before May 1st, will usually
be a fine expanse of velvety green before Sei>-
Fig. 1.5. Showing a series Fig. 16. Pleasing garden
of characterless, seven- curvebecausethebencla
tine curves. See No. 15. vary considerably in
size. See No. 15.
tember, provided it is kept clipped by a mower
once a week on an average.
Coming the Second Year. Strawberries, a
full crop; Raspberries, Blackberries, Currants
and Gooseberries, a partial crop; Grapes, fre-
quently a few fine clusters.
Youiig Evergreens, all flowering shrubs, vines
and perennial garden plants should be in full
perfection the second year after planting,
although without the size of later years
Coming in the Third Year. The small fruits,
such as Raspberries, Blackberries, Currants,
Gooseberries, will now be in full bearing. Grapes
will yield a good crop.
Cherries, Pears, Dwarf and Early-bearing Ap-
ples, Plums, Peaches and Quinces should begin
to make some returns this year, and all orna-
mental trees put in a satisfactory appearance.
19. Select the best kinds for your locality.
Avoid the common error of ordering an
assortment which five years later will show
to have consisted largely of things too tender
for your climate or otherwise deficient. If
you are ine.xperienced rely largely on the
experience of your neighbors. Consult the
largest planters in your vicinity; what has
succeeded with them will be likely to suc-
ceed with you.
Invest with extreme caution in all new
and untried things. Nine times in ten the
money spent for these is an utter waste.
For family use the variety in fruits may
be somewhat increased over that which is
Fig. 17. Tliree year tree in the Nursery; ceotted
line showing place of cutting the roots in dig-
ging. Upper figure a one year tree. See No. SI.
the most profitable for market. In Apples
the inexperienced generally get too many
summer and fall varieties. Better plant
few of these and a large number of winter
sorts in order to secure an abundance of
POPULAR GARDENING.
March,
fruit for the winter when other kinds of
fruit are absent.
On BtTTlNG THE STOCK FOR PLANTING.
20. Avoid buying of imrcliable dealers.
Face the fact that there are many unscru-
pulous agents among those who supply trees,
plants and seeds, but also that there is no
lack of reliable ones.
It is well to notice that the dishonest
agent makes the most extraordinary claims
Fia. 26.
Undrained
land; the pores
filled with water.
Fid. 22. The heaviest growth in
the bitttom braiichcs^ hence
not well suited fitr street
playiting, where long trunks
are desirable. See No. 23.
Fig.'^S. The h( aril st imnoth
at the top. i)iduci)iii the
tree to have a hnih trunk,
hence well suitedjor'street
planting. See No. 22.
for new and wonderful fruits and flowers,
and cheats by the use of spurious samples
or exaggerated engravings and descriptions.
You can rely on the agent who sells
over the same territory year after year.
You can trust the agent, stranger though
he be, who representing a flrst-class nursery,
carries a sirincd certificate of recent date
from the nursery he sells for. Always ex-
amine the certificate before buying.
Swindlers have been know to carry forged
certificates ; if you have any suspicions on
tills point write to the nursery asking if so
and so is their trusted agent.
As a rule buy no seeds of travellers or at
drug or grocery stores. Ortler from the
catalogues of reliable dealers.
21. Choose young thrifty trees for best results.
A tree should largely be judged by the
size of its root not by its top.
Young trees — those from one to two years
from the graft come from the nursery with
much sti'onger roots in proportion to the top
than older trees. In the engraving figure 17
the small stock to the left is that of a year-
ling tree and showing the probable line
at which the roots would be cut in digging.
It is seen that nearly all the roots are pre-
served in digging. The otiier shows a tree
of some years' growth in the nursery and
with roots reaching out about as indicated.
In digging such a tree all roots beyond the
dotted line would be liable to be left back.
Large as this specimen is above ground
we think for transplanting it stands an un-
growers in both fruits and ornamentals
better suited to the place.
Where space is very limited employ vines
such as the Grape or ornamental climbers
for they accommodate themselves
over a perpendicular surface.
Every planter sets some street
trees, but many make mistakes as
to kinds especially in towns where
the law ( a proper one) requires that
the trunks be kept clear for ten
feet up. Here one should
select according to the
style of growth; if the
tendency is to branch low
witli a lieavy growth at
the bottom as in figure 22,
the tree is tar less suitable than
when the form is the rev.rse of
this as shown in figure 23. On this
account the A merican Elm is about
the ideal street shade tree. Our
towns abound with Maple and
Horse Chestnut trees in the high-
ways, which have crippled and
scarred trunks the result of severe
pruning to adapt unsuitable kinds
to certain requirements.
In locating varieties in the orch-
ard or garden, set such as come
early into bearing nearest to the
entrance and the late kinds that
are harvested at one time to the rear.
23. Wlien to Plant. Spring or Fall f
A hard question because no one knows
the season ahead. Summer drouth is harder
on spring than on fall planting; extremely
cold weather the reverse of this in its effects.
In the southern states November to Jan-
uary is the preferred planting season gen-
furnish good earth and plenty of it for the
plant, as indicated by B in fig. 23.
25. The soil should be well drained.
Is your soil well drained? Few kinds of
Fig. 27. Fig. 28. Fin. 29-
Qravel land Underdrainage Wet land un-
naturally un- effected by rock derdrained
derdrained. seams. with tile.
POOR
SUB SOIL
Fig. 24. Providing good soil for planting in
where the land is poor. See No. 24.
equal chance in the race for results looking
ten years ahead.
22. Suit the kind to the place.
Do not plant Apple or large shade trees in
narrow town lots; there are many smaller
Fig. 30. Manner of lay ing main and lateral un-
cler-drains. See No. 25.
erally. Taking one year with another we
would not recommend fall planting in local-
ities where the winters are known to be
severe. Yet even here there might be little
risk in fall planting with any but the stone
fruits, Strawberries, Evergreens and orna-
mental trees, shrubs and plants: these we
would prefer to plant in the spring.
But whether done in the spring or the fall
let the planting be done early in the season.
Thr Soil in Which to Plant.
24. Land well suited to gardening or to
Wheat or Com issuitedfor trees and vines.
The soil needs thorough cultivation and
enriching for trees no less than to pro-
duce a good crop of Corn. If the culture
given to the crop named or to garden crops
were bestowed to trees,especially for the first
five years after planting, many less reports
of failure in planting would be heard.
To plant trees in soil that is very dry and
gravelly or where the top earth is very
shallow or on the site of an old dead tree,
there should be special preparations, as
shown in fig. 24, namely; The sterile earth
should be dug out for a space of say five
feet across and two feet deep, and be re-
placed by fresh loam iu which to plant.
Vines planted against a house or verandah
post often fail because the soil here was
the hard subsoil dug from the cellar and
was filled in. Under such circumstances
trees or plants, none in the fruit class
succeed in wet land, A soil too wet for
raising good winter Wheat is too wet for
trees. This may be known if water stands
in the furrows for half a week or more after
the frost has left the earth in the spring, or
after continuous rains have held up. Drain
such land before planting it to trees.
Some lands have natural underdrainage,
others are suflSciently undulating that the
Figs. 31 atid upper one 32. Tito forms of levels
for use in ditch bottoms. See No. 25
surface water flow so readily as to obviate
the need of any applied drainage.
Fig. 26, shows a section of soil supposed
to be excessively wet from the inability
of the water to readily escape. Fig. 27, a
similar section naturally under-drained by
the presence of gravelly soil beneath; thus
affording the means for the water to settle
away. Fig. 28 shows another kind of
natural underdrainage namely that of soil
which overlays rocks the seams of which
make a passage for the escape of wetness
above. Fig. 29 represents a cross section of
a tile drain laid in soil not naturally under-
drained.
Every planter should ascertain under
which of the forgoing heads his lands comes
gaugeing his plans accordingly.
If it needs draining, a system of unrter-
drains should be provided which will
permit all excess of moisture readily to
escape. Drains usually are laid as follows:
A main drain (as a in Fig. 30) is laid start-
ing from a low point to provide uniformly
from U inch to 1 inch fall for each rod in
^
Fig. 31. Planting in undrained soil. See No. 25.
length of the system throughout. This main
may le.ad along one side or through the cen-
ter of the plat to be drained.
Leading into the main {a to h and c) are
lateral tiles laid in parallel lines through the
grounds, and usually at a distance of two
rods or somewhat upwards apart. The
system should be so laid out, having a depth
of not less than 2}.i feet at the shallowest
parts for all the laterals, and to have the
fall indicated above throughout.
Two inch tile are .suitable for the laterals,
and three, four or more inch for the mains,
depending upon the area included. A device
such as shown in Fig. 31 (lower), in which a
spirit level is attached to a board, or Fig 32
(upper),with a line and plummet suspending
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
lT,i
along the center upright, should be used for
calculating the proper fall.
Where trees must be planted in soil im-
practicable to be underdrained, instead of
setting them into tUe ordinary level, make
Fig. 25. Preparing for Vine against the house. A
Sterile soil, B pocket of good loam. See No. 24.
a mound of earth for planting them in, as
shown in Fig. 31.
Distinguish between soil that is properly
moist and such as is water-logged. In the
former the earth particles are moist, with
the minute apertures between open to admit
the air needed for root growth; in the latter
the spaces between the soil particles are
loaded with water to the exclusion of air;
for it to so long remain is death to roots.
26. Provide deep tillage for the roots.
A deep soil gives more space to the roots
and opens up larger stores of plant food.
The deeper the culture the larger is the
amount of reserve moisture for the roots in
time of drouth. Therefore to secure a quick
and rapid growth prepare the soil deeply.
By deep culture is meant for small plats
to trench the soil, that is, work it up two
depths of the spade, as in Fig. 32, instead of
one as in Fig. .34; for larger areas to follow
in the furrow of the common plow (Fig. 3.5)
with a subsoil plow, as in Fig. .33, the object
in either case being to break up the soil
thoroughly 1.5 or more inches deep, instead
of less than half that depth, after the more
ordinary one-depth process.
Do not fall into the error of bringing the
subsoil, nearly always sterile, to the top,
and putting the top soil beneath. Leave
each stratum in its natural place. In turn-
ing over the lower stratum, however, it is
well to work some manure into it. In any
event fertilizers applied to the upper earth
will find their way down to the roots.
Land that is once well trenched or sub-
soiled, will show the good effects of the
work on the trees or crops for many years
to come. In gardens where no trees are
cultivated, the operations often are repeated.
27. Properly enrich the soil and cultivate
its surface.
It should be well manured with barn yard
dung or clover plowed under, and be
thoroughly pulverized with the cultivator
and harrow, or for small areas with the rake
before planting. This will be found of great
benefit, both in producing an abundance of
fine, damp, soil for aiding good planting,
and in promoting the retention of moisture
Fig. 34. Turning the soil one spade deep: com-
pare with Fiy. 32. See No. 28.
Fig. 35. Common plowing; for depth compare
w.th Fig. 33. See No. X.
in the soil throughout the season, not to
mention the gain in the fight with weeds.
Caring for the Stock Before Planting.
28. A tree or plant out of ground, is like a
.fi,sh out of water; it is in the dying stage.
Take every precaution to protect the roots.
The advantage of short shipments is that
the time may be shorter from ground to
ground. But good packing and slight ex-
posure may make up for longer distance.
The stock at hand, first unpack it, and
quickly get the roots into earth, thatis, heel-
in the trees or plants. Heeling-in is tem-
porary planting, for preserving the roots
and having the stock handy for setting out.
Planting from the box can seldom be done
to advantage.
29. How to heel in trees and plants.
One way of heeling-in is illustrated in Fig.
36. First a trench is thrown out to one side,
and a row of trees is laid down with the
roots in the trench. Then a second trench
is opened against the first, the soil being
Fig. 22. lUustrating threnching two spades deep.
Fig. 33. Us'ng the subsoil plow beneath the fur-
row made with a common plow. See No. 26.
thrown over the roots of the trees in the
first. Observe four points:
1. Always open the bundles and spread the
trees thinly.
2. Sprinkle plenty of fine earth among the
roots.
3. Cover them over well to at least six inches
above the crown.
4. Firm the soil with the feet so that it will be
in dose contact with every root.
The same principle is to be observed in
heeling-in small plants, as shown in Fig. 37.
Heeling-in is sometimes done by throwing
out the trench on both sides, and then set-
ting the trees uprightly in the
trench, filling in ground as
above. A second trench, if
needed, is then opened somestx
or eight feet from the first, and
so on.
Trees received in the fall for
spring planting should be
heeled in on some dry spot,
free from grass or weeds that
would harbor mice, and the
root, trunk and most of the
branches be covered with earth.
Leave the earth as finished
somewhat mound-shaped to
shed water. Then cover any
exposed tops with Evergreen
branches, and the trees will be
safe.
Trees frozen or shrivelled in
transit should at once
enormotis waste of money, time and hopes
falls upon the planters. It is an uncalled
for waste. By pursuing right methods the
Fig. 36. Heeling in Trees. See No. 29.
average loss in transplanting need not be
so much as one in ten.
Attention has been directed to the pre-
paration of the soil and other vital matters
bearing on successful tree culture. The
purpose now is to speak of that which more
than anything else has to do with success or
failure in planting, namely, the pruning of
the planting stock, and the committing of
the roots to the soil in the new situation.
31. Right prm^ing; securing a proper hal-
antc Ijctvcen root and top.
Those who plant for failure usually look
most to the top, to preserve it large and full
from the day of planting. To prune it is to
spoil it they argue, and their tree is sure to
be out of balance, more top than root. To
plant for success is to look most to the root.
Give us a good proportion of roots and we
make the top what we will.
The right and the wrong idea, regarding
balance of parts is shown in Figs. 39 to 40-
The first figure is that of a vigorous young
nursery tree before digging, showing the
numerous strong roots reaching some feet
out. Careful examinations have shown that
the roots of a young tree fully equal or ex-
ceed in extent the branches of the top.
It is impossible to preserve all these roots in
digging, especially after the tree is a year
and upwards old (see Fig. 17). The usual
practice is to thrust the digger into the
earth about as the engraving shows, and
the larger part of the finer roots, too delicate
really to handle, stay back.
Thus the tree's balance in root and top is
broken at the nursery; it reaches the planter
in the top heavy condition of Fig. 39. Plant
it thu.s, as so generally is done, and the root
hg Fig. 38. Baiarn.-f of Fig.^. Unbalanced in
. , ^ , ,, . , parts before digging, diggingby loss of roots.
buried, tops and all, m earth
until restored.
The Operation of Planting.
30. Do we set out things to live or to die?
It is said that fully two-thirds of all trees
planted never reach the state of well-devel-
oped productive specimens. It this be true,
and we have no reason to doubt it, what an
fi^. 40. Balance re-
stored by Pruning.
Tfte Balance bctircen Root and Top. See Ko. 31.
is not possibly equal to the task of supports
ingits entire top. The tree is out of balance.
Fig. 40 shows the same tree handled for
restoring the balance lost in digging, through
pruning away enough of the top to corres-
pond with the loss of the roots. This is the
course that all planters should follow.
132
POPULAR GARDENING.
March,
March, the Beeuiler.
Sonny and smiling, you come to the earth,
With promise of pleasanter days.
Waving the banner of blossom and mirth
Far out Into the golden haze ;
Blue-eyed and tender, you bend o'er the beds
Where little soft buds lie a.'^leep.
Stirring and coaling till tiny bright heads
From out of the brown mould quilt creep ;
Then, with a frown and a wrathful eye.
You cover them up In the snows to die.
Cruel old March :
Greedy and grim, with your heartless wiles —
Crushing the beauty you won with your smiles !
Brightly you sit on the bare Peach boughs.
And feel for the pulse of the flowers.
Whispering falseh(X)ds over their brows
Of golden and bright green hours ;
Warming their blood with your treacherous breath.
And swelling the soft pink bloom.
Then with your frost work chill them to death.
And whistle and chant o'er their tomb :
Yet In the gold of the April sun.
You sob and moan for the mischief you've done.
Silly old March !
Fickle and false, with your cheats and arts—
You are type of some who have souls and hearts !
New Tork World.
Trailing Arbutus.
Dear floweret, nestling 'ueath the mould.
Hard won thou art.
But now thy blushing beauties lie
Unveiled beneath the azure sky.
And wealth of fragi-ance all untold
Wells from thy heart !
Wert heaven-born, sweet flower, and sent
From Paradise,
To be of all the joys of spring
The rarest and the lovliest thing ?
And hath the light o'er thee been bent
Of angel eyes ?
Boston Transcri2)t.
Kow test all seeds.
Bonednst for thin lawns.
More sunsliine— brighter bloom.
HoBie Plants Jetest dust as much as you do
Bam the rubbish, and return the ashes to the
BOU.
Heroic treatment in orchard surgery is seldom
called for.
Woodashes from Canada buy only on guaran-
teed anal.vsls.
The first Arbor day of the season was that of
Florida on January ITth.
For comfort try dry paths outside the house,
and save dirt on the carpets.
A Calla of mine occasionally bears a double-
spathed flower.— Jfuy Wassel.
Yon want flowers every month: Then select
plants and seeds accordingly.
Fmit bnds generally have started, yet the
prospects for a bountiful crop are favorable.—
W.A. Smith, Mich.
Some of the most interesting reading matter
in this issue is found in our advertising pages I
Head them cai-efuUy.
Pffioies are begining to receive the increased
attention they are deserving of. Grand flowers
they are indeed. Transplant as early as possible.
The product of American Tomato canneries
for 1869 is estimated at 2,979,765 cases, while the
1888 crop was estimated at 3,34'>,137 cases.
The Jessie Strawberry is pronounced by the
Ohio Experiment station best for forcing, matu-
ring as fine bennes under glass as in open air.
Hlsshills and gaps among our vegetables is
just what we do not want. We prefer sowing
plenty of seed— and thinning at the proper time.
The Wood Lily ( Trillium iirandiflorum I in
culture must have the partial shade of trees.
This fact lost sight of commonly leads to failure
in growing it.
A remarkable Season. From everywhere come
the reports of fruit blossoms, flowers of Trailing
Arbutus, Jessamine, Fruit Trees, etc., picked in
open air in January.
White wash. "It is strange," remarked a
Boston belle, as she observed the shimmering
Silver Birches, " that people will go and white-
wash trees that are almost in the wood."— Pwcfc.
This Don't Pay. The loss to manure by ex-
posure especially by leaching, in tests by the
Cornell University, has reached as high as 42 per
cent. The moral is, keep manure under shelter,
or draw it upon the land at once.
Do yon think that because Canna seeds are as
hard as shot (hence the name Indian shot) that
they wiU not germinate properly? They will if
soaked 24 hours before sowing, in water kept at
a temperature of from 75 to 80 degrees.
The roots of evergreens wiU not bear exposure
to the air as well as deciduous trees, and the
latter do not bear it very well. When removing
Pines, Hemlock, Arbor vita?, etc-, always try to
retain as much soil on the roots as possible.
More to Come, what should have been stated
at the end of the five page article " How to Plant
a Place," was that said article is to be concluded
next month. So we say here that nearly or quite
three pages of the same article wUl appear in
our April issue.
For Pea Weevil Killers. Carbon bisulphide
which has been often mentioned, but seldom
used as an insecticide, simply because it evapo-
rates too quickly for lasting effect, is said to act
in a more satisfactory manner, when vasaline is
used as a solvent.
Ignotnm Tomato has rotted very badly with
us. Grown beside the Dwarf Champion and
Acme, and with same treatment, the Ignotum
did not give us more than one sound Tomato out
of ten that ripened, while few of the other kinds
rotted.— TF. Hicknz, Ohio.
Plant Stakes. TJmbrella-wire painted green
makes excellent stakes for plants in pots. Being
small, roimd, it is little noticed, which is an im-
portant factor in the arrangement of plants.
Tie the cord firmly on the wire to keep it In
place, then brin^ the ends together around the
limbs desired and fasten.— ir. C. Jcnnison.
Old hedees can easily be disposed of by cutting
down now as close to the ground as possible,
leaving them in a narrow, compact row over the
roots. After new growth has started in spring,
set fire to the brush, and burn it. This will kill
the plants, and a year later the roots will be
rotted enough to be torn out easily with the
plow.— Gardener Jo.
Liquid Manure. Plants that have but a small
area to grow upon are best treated with liquid
manure, because this is the most advantageous
method of returning the fertility. It is safer to
dilute the mixture very considerably, and to
apply not too often, but at regular intervals.
During the winter the washings from barnyards
may be secured and will prove admirable for this
purpose. — Boht. L. Dean.
Oil of Eoses. The greater portion of this is
produced in Franco- The United States imported
from there nearly one quarter of a million
dollai-s' worth last year. It is made of the Rose
Geranium. Californian people begin to think,
that there is no country in the world where
Rose Geraniums can be grown to such perfec-
tion, and containing such a high percentage of
oil than their own state,
and perhaps they will soon
make the attempt to
secure the quarter million
of dollars for themselves
for pin money. 1
Damp is the grt':ii
enemy of plants in the
amateur's greenhouse. As
a precautionary measure
every dead and faded
leaf should be picked
off; watering should be
ings of bright days only
plants as the engraving represents. The whole
contrivance is easily put up, and quite attractive.
We know nothing of the price of these goods,
but should think that our enterprising seedsmen
would import and offer them to their customers.
Soil Preparation. Garden plants and borders
should be thoroughly pulverized, but this is
hardly ever done properly . We ha ve adopted
the following method. The ground is forked
over and the entire surface trodden down in
short steps, with the feet close together. The re-
quired amoimt of the manure is next spread on,
and the soil again forked over. A thorough
raking over will then bring it in excellent con-
dition for sowing or planting. The operation of
treading down the soil can be performed in
much less time than it takes to turn it over, and
it pulverizes it so thoroughly, we think it a good
practise for any one, when preparing garden
beds or borders.— TT. r Jennison.
To bi Weighed in the Balance. Among fruit
novelties of the season we have the "Lady Rusk'"
Strawberry, introduced by Wm. Stahl of Quiney,
Ills, and the " Progress " Raspberry, introduced
by J. T. Lovett Co., Little SUver, N. J. The
chief merit claimed for the " Lady Rusk " is
superior shipping and keeping qualities, while
the " Progress" is claimed to be much more
prolific than Souhegan (the introducer says twice
as much); a day or two earlier and its equal in
every other respect, so much so, indeed, that it
may be difficult to tell the difference. Great
things are also claimed for the Palmer Rasp-
berry, a supposed cross between Souhegan and
Gregg, and introduced by F. R. Palmer & Son,
Mansfield, O
Trees from Eoot Cuttings. On the authority
of Prof. J. L Budd we state that Elm, Black
Locust, Poplar, Cherry. Plum, and all other
trees that naturally throw up sprouts, or which
sprout when roots are wounded by plow or
spade, may be profitably grown from root
cuttings. Sections of the surface roots two
inches in length kept in sand or Moss over Winter
in the cellar will make fine iilants the next season.
In moist regions such cuttings may be dropped
in a light furrow, and covered like Corn or Peas.
But in dry sections they are safer to stick diagon-
ally with the upper part about two inches below
the surface. Populus alba argentea, grown from
short root cuttings put out last spring has made
plants over five feet in height the same season.
Smilaz, of all vines, is my favorite, and any-
where and in any form I think it is lovel.v. One
window at least, in every sitting-room, should
be decorated with it. Take a shallow box the
width of your window and paint it white ; place
it on a level with the window sill and fill it with
leaf mold from the woods. In September start
slips of Smilax. When old enough to commence
running, guide them upward by small linen or
cotton threads attached to the box and fastened
to top ot the window. In a short time they will
run up to where you have secured the strings,
and turn back as if surveying the distance they
have come. I have seen small boxes of Smilax
hung by a strong cord on door knobs: the vine
would cover the cord so that none of it could be
seen, and it puzzles the beholder to know by
what power the box is held in its place. It is an
PLANT PROTECTOR OF GLASS AND IRON.
done in the morn-
In damp dark days,
even if the temperature is not low, keep the fire
going briskly, allowing the heat to escape
through the opened ventilators and raised sashes.
The new life that comes with the progress of the
sea.son, the strong vigorous growth favored by
the brighter and balmier days of early spring,
will soon put a stop to the dangers from damp.
Plant Protector. Osman & Co., of London,
England, have kindly forwarded to us for inspec-
tion and trial among other things some of the
cast iron frames, specimen of which is shown in
engraving. The tines pressed down into the soil
give the frame a firm foothold. Two, three or
more such frames are set in a straight line, and
glass fitted into them to make a protector of
odd but pretty way to suspend floral ornaments,
while the more careless you ari-ange them, the
better the effect. Mrs. L. B. Gale.
A fine German Iris— Madam Cherfau. The
group of Iris (Jennanica includes all the broad-
leaved Iris, which generally pass under the above
name, but are in fact varieties of pallida, neg-
letta, KiiualenK, amiTiia, rariegata, aphylla, and
germanica.all resembling each other in foliage
and habit but totally distinct in flower; when
taken as a whole, they form a group unpar-
alleled in beauty, nothing in creation can vie
with them, unless it is the Orchids from the
Tropics. Every shade of color may be found
among them, that of the beautiful new subject
illustrated being white-edged and feathered with
violet. They wUl thrive in almost any soil or
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
133
situation without any iiiie wliattvcr, ami must
be considered necessary in every garden. For
the wild garden, shrubbery borders, margins of
water, rookwork, etc., they arc admirably adapt-
ed: in fact hardly any place can be fouud in
which some of this section will not thrive. The
Irises are both old-fashioned and new-fashioned
flowers, much attention being now paid to im-
proving tliem.
The Apple worm. A new Apple pest has made
its ap|>eaniiice in I'eutral New York.
It is reported to Garden and Forest
by Dr. Hoskins of Vermont and not
unknown in the western states. I first
saw it in a basket of Golden Sweets
which 1 selected for a friend, and set
in my fruit room to become nicely
colored. Xo handsomer basket of
Apples could have been found than
those when I thought them ready for
delivery. But tasting one I fouud it
honey-combed and black to within
half an inch of the skin. It was in-
fected with a minute worm of a dull
yellowish white color. I threw away
the .\pple presuming it to be an acci-
dental attack; but on examination,
found every .ipple in the basket
utterly spoiled: the whole center was
a mass of corruption The outside of
nearly all the fruit was brilliant
yellow, showing no mark of the
havoc within: but a few showed diuk
lines under the surface. The name
of the ix-st is Trypela pomonella; but
that will not help us much in getting ,
rid of it.— E. P. Pnu-cll. /
Leisons in Economy. What curious '
developments of possible domestic
economy constantly occur. In one of
the I'alifornian valleys, it has recently
been by chance discovered that Peach X
stones make as good a fire as the / \
best of coal. The fruit growers are '
now saving what has always been
thrown away and hard to get rid of;
and selling the stones at six dollars a
ton. A sack of Peach stones weighs
eighty pounds and will last as long
as eighty pounds of coal, and give
more heat. It pays to consider noth-
ing as settled, and to experiment in
every direction. Our greatest wealth
ma.v be outside the door, or be
dumped in the waste heaps. It is im-
possible to find a farm in half a days
drive where there are not palpable
wastes enough going on, openl.v, to
pa.v for, or explain the mortgages that
overload them. I know of a farmer
who is now making a fortune out of
a marl bed, but he owned it for many
years before he knew it More enter-
prise is needed in the way of utilizing
whatever we have held heretofore to
be useless.— E. P. Pmi-cU.
The Cabbage Syrphus. One of the insect
friends that help us fight our foes is the Cabbage
syrphus; a beautiful insect. Larva green with
two lighter green stripes down each side of the
middle of the back ; head small and pointed,
posterior end much the wider and having two
short bristles ; body soft and slimy looking, re-
minding one of a snail In repose it lies next
the ribs of the leaf and when hungry seeks a
flock of aphides, usually not far distant, and
does not retire until it has devoured eight or ten
of these pests. When full-fed the body contracts
into a pear-shaiied puparium remaining on the
leaf until the fly emerges. The fly is gaily
colored, yellow and dark green. These flies greatly
reduce the number of aphides and should be
spared when we are waging war on Insects. It
would be of considerable value to the gardener
and fruit raiser to be able to recognize his friends
among the hosts of insects that share with him
the profits of the farm, and he should study their
life-history and habits, that he might know which
to destroy, and which to protect.— ^rgynni*.
Beform in Cider Making, A late consular
report on cider making in Europe tells us that in
the rural districts of France there are yet to be
found many who think no good cider can be
made without the liquid of the barnyard is
added in the press. This statement seems in-
credible: but can any one look into the bins of
a great cider manufactory without horror?
Cider making has degenerated into a general
squeeze up of all the wormy, foul, decaying trash
of our orchards and the addition of drugs. When
our fathers made cider. tlic.\- .selected the licst
fruit, or at least carefully axoided grinding up
wormy and rotten fruit with a liberal additii>n
of mud and manure. Our whole method of
dealing with the orchard and Apple crop needs
revolutionizing. The packing of barrels in
some sections is being quite reversed from the
common method of twenty years ago. I know
brands of barrels that I can buy without looking
farther than the iiackers name on the outside.
IRIS GERMANICA MADAME OHEREAU.
That means fine fruit well packed from end
to end of the barrel. But who shall take
hold of this cider business and reform our
national drinkV-E. P. PoUiU.
New York Floral Notes.
The florists feel a little aggrieved because so
few flowers were worn by the ladies attending
the great Patriarch's ball. So many jewels were
worn that they could not crowd any flowers on,
and more women carried elaborate fans than
flowers. But when flowers were carried the
bouquets were very large.
Regular coi'sage bunches are not worn, but
pretty trailing knots of Roses are seen with some
evening gowns. They are arranged from the
shoulder, beginning with one Rose: this has per-
haps two or three others twisted around its stem,
as many as are desired, and then some others are
added, reversed, flowers downward, so that they
make a trailing spray, half knot, halt garland.
A sumptuous dinner arrangement consisted of
a center plateau of Orchids, delicate Cattleyas
and Maidenhair, while around it were low baskets
of Gabrielle Luizet Roses, used as favors.
A good many beautiful Bowers were seen at
the funeral of Peter Henderson, whose sudden
death was a painful shock to many. Among the
designs was a very large slanting cross of Mermet
and Niphetos Roses, with a wreath of Violets
hung over its arms; it was very handsome. Some
flat bouquets, arranged on a background of Cy-
cas leaves were also handsome. A wreath of
Violets makes a lovely funeral design, hnd they
have been used a good ileal this winter, these
flowers being both popular and very plentiful.
Some, of the growers say that they have not
really sold as many decorating plants this winter
as they expected, and they really think the mar-
ket is not so good as anticipated. Perhaps some
explanation of this may be found in the fact that
a good many big decorations depended more on
Evergreens than on decorating plants. Of course
they were well arranged, tut they were cheap,
^~" and they looked cheap. One may
fill up with such stuff, but it can
never compare with hot-house plants.
Perhaps the decorators are actuated
by prudence as well as economy, as we
have record of one ball of upperten-
dom at which the cultured guests
wound up the festivities by smashing
the decorations to pieces and then
pelting one another with the frag-
ments.
A beautiful dinner decoration con-
sisted of a quantity of pale pink India,
bunched up in graceful folds. In the
center was a large mound of Gabrielle
Luizet Roses, without other foliage.
Loose Roses were scattered here and
there, and a bunch was laid at each
cover. Little fancy baskets of gilt or
silver, or colored Rushes, filled with
flowers, often take the place of a
bouquet as dinner favors, being filled
with the flowers prevailing in the
decoration. Some charming arrange-
ments in Orchids are used, and their
costliness adds to their style. One
very aesthetic dinner decoration was
of Cypripedium insigne. Mignonette
and Maidenhair. There was a flat
center basket filled with these fiowers,
while around it were the favors,
small, round baskets filled with the
same flowers, and tied with bunches
of pale green ribbon.
White dinners are still extremely
fashionable, one very beautiful ar-
rangement being of Bride Roses and
White Lilac; while Orchids and White
Cyclamens make another beautiful
decoration. There is but little decor-
ation at afternoon teas, but Violets
are very popular at such functions.
Tulips are still used, but they are
not very popular for dinners or other
fine arrangements. The largest Tulip
decoration of the season was the
annual dinner of the Holland Society
in Xew York, where it was said over
3,000 Tulip blooms were used, chiefly
Due Van Thol. No other flowers but
these Dutch bulbs were used.
Pot plants are much used on the
table, the pots being stood in Delft or
Leeds jars or rush baskets. Cyclamens
are much admired for this purpose,
varying from pure white through all
the varying shades of pink to deep crimson.
Little Holly trees, covered with berries, were
imported from England for use in decorations,
but they were rather clumsy for the table.
Brides rarely carry Orange blossoms now;
sometimes a spray or two is mixed in the bouquet,
but the favorite bridal flower now is White Lilac.
Lilac is always in favor, either the cut blooms or
the small French plants in pots, which are used
for decorating. Next to the Lilac. Lily of the
Valley is favored by brides. The bridal bouquet
is stUl extremely large, tied with a very long
white sash.
For luncheons the decorations differ in charac-
ter from dinners. One pretty yellow luncheon
was decorated with Jonquils; in the center was a
large yellow bowl of Leeds pattern, filled with
these flowers. Two other flower holders of quaint
shape stood at opposite corners, and there were
several smaller glasses, all filled with the same
flowers. -\n ingenious idea at luncheons is to tie
the favors at the back of each chair with ribbons,
so that they are easily moved. When the flowers
are laid at the plate they are often in the way
during luncheon. Little oriental straw baskets
are filled with flowers for luncheon favors.
A large ball of flowers suspended from the
center of the ceiling, is a showy feature in dec-
oration, especially when garlands of flowers are
looped from above it to the sides of the room.
Poinsettia has been used a good deal in showy
decorations; and its vivid color makes its highly
effective.
Emilt Louise Tapldj.
134
POPULAR GARDENING.
March,
FRoH
THE
SOCIETIES
awMArtERT>iAT dbimves
TO BETWI DEI.Y KN 0 WIU
Early Potatoes. The Early
1 )hio is now the leading var-
iety in my neighborhood;
none better where you want
, to grow two crops in one
season.— Jo/in BwiHg, O.
Profitable Apples in Iowa,
Wealthy is the most profit-
able, with Duchess second. At 25 cents a bushel
Duchess will in ten years pay $100 an acre.—
Uarvey Fidkr, Minn.
The Home Garden . The garden must be near
the house, and at least a part of it enclosed, be
well manured every year, should face the south,
have no trees near it, and for the ordinary farmer
should contain about 14, acre.— J. M. Pearson, lU.
Advance in Strawberries. Wherever civiliza-
tion and Christianity exists, there Strawberry
culture is advancing and increasing, and as long
as there is a seed time and harvest, and as man
can sow seed and set Strawberry plants, just that
long will there be advancement in new and better
Strawberries.— C. D. Matthews, Ky.
Ornamental Planting. For streets there is
nothing better than Elm, Ash, Linden and
Catalpa. Where soil is dry. Hard Maple is among
the best; but on wet black soil is the poorest
For lawn or grounds, increase the list in propor-
tion to the size of the grounds; it there is room
plant some which are not generally classed as
hardy, protecting them for a few years iix winter.
—A. Dunniny before Illinois State Hort. Society.
Buffalo Berry, At a recent meeting of the
Dakota Horticultural Society the Kutfalo Berry
was well spoken of, not for its fruit, but for orna-
mental hedges or lawn planting. Trees planted
two years ago last spring, from small sprouts dug
up on the bluffs, were reported as being now
seven feet high, having made an average growth
of 18 inches of the principal branches in the dry
season, and last year's growth now loaded with
fruit buds.
Southeastern Illinois Fruit Growers Associa-
tion. This was organized December ISlst, 18Hfl,
and the following oflicei's were elected: Prsident,
1. Mills, of Clay; Vice-Presidents, R. Mills, of
Clay; Vice-Presidents, B. T. Key, Richland; E. C.
Kramer, Wayne; Allen Cope, J arion; Wiley
Honey, Jasper; Thos. Lowry, Clay. Secretery,
N. M. Burns, Clay; Assistant Secretary, J. It.
Benney, Hoosier Prairie; Treasurer, R Smith,
Clay. The membership was placed at $1 per
annum, or $10 for a lite membership.
Early Snmmer Apples. Of these we have Car-
olina Red .Tune, Yellow .Tune and Early Harvest.
The first named ripens its fruit consecutively, a
few at a time, for a month or so, and is therefore
very desirable as a family Apple. When highly
cultivated, as it always should be, and grown in
large quantities, it is also a desirable market
fruit, being of a beautiful color and of medium
size. All three sorts first named are fit for use
even before the seeds are Ijrown, yet they are
wholesome and of best flavor when fully ripe.—
Kansos State Hort. Society.
Birds and Forests. The laws we can make for
tlie protection of the birds will, in a measure, be
barren of results if we destroy all our native
fruit trees and neglect to plant more trees. Birds
and forests are intimately connected, and the
destruction of the relation between them means
the destruction of both. The forests give the
birds shelter and food, and the birds disseminate
the seeds of the trees and keep in proper check
their enemies. In other words the birds cannot
live without the forests and the forests cannot
exist without the birds.— Fro»i P}-e»ident^s Ad-
dress Keutueliy Horticultural Society.
Greenhouse Exposure. I have greenhouses
facing west and southwest; at twelve the sun
shines on the ridge pole of my house They are
built with one-cjuarter span and get the afternoon
sun. 1 have seen good success in greenhouses
facing in all directions. It don't make much
ditTerence. The greenhouse may as well face
southeast as any way. The morning sun is im-
portant; if they run southeast with one-quarter
span you can get the afternoon sun, and it I were
building 1 should' buld the new houses where
they would have the afternoon sun and the
morning sun both.— 1'. Frost, before Farmers''
Meeting at Boston.
California's Flora. Jlr. B. P. Ware tells the
Massachusetts Horticultural Society that at a
recent visit in California he saw acres and acres
of Squashes, or, as they are called there. Pump-
kins, producing at the rate of ao tons per acre;
they are valued at two dollars per ton. There is
no frost there, and they are piled up in the fields
tnitil wanted tor use. A field was said to have
produced 80 tons to the acre. Peaches require
only four years to make good thrifty bearing
trees. Almonds and English Walnuts thrive
there; indeed, all the fruits now imported from
Europe find a congenial home in California, and
our whole country will undoubtedly before long
be supplied from thence with all the fruits and
nuts now imported.
Improvements in Vegetables. Beets have im-
in-oved in earliness, not in quality. While there
may be some improvement in Beans, the seed
men make the most noise. The ijuality of Toma-
toes has not improved as much as the looks. In
Cabbage the early varieties have improved.
Celery thirty years ago was used but little; now
it is one of the leading vegetables. There has
been such a change in the manner of growing,
and the new varieties intr()duced, that it is
brought within reach of all people. There is no
vegetable where the variety has changed so much
with advantage to the grower, without losing in
quality. There is a steady improvement in veg-
etables all along the line, except the Sweet
Potato.— Montyomery Co. HoH. Society.
Apples for Michigan. At a recent meeting of
the Aiiple growers of Lenawee Co., Mich., the
following Apples were chosen by ballot: For
fall family use, the Fall Pippin, Strawberry and
Snow Apples. For winter family use, Northein
Spy, Rhode Island Greening, Rambo, Canada Red
and Talman Sweet, with approval of Belleflower
and Belmont as cooking Apples, and Jonathan
and Winesap as dessert varieties For market,
the five selected were: Baldwin, Ben Davis,
Northern Spy, Rhode Island Greening; Roxbury
Russet. Morris Red and Pennock were favorably
mentioned. As best single varieties for all pur-
poses these Michigan growers were about evenly
divided between the Baldwin and Ben Davis: the
Baldwin's only weak point being the liability of
the tree to injure in severe cold winters.
Making a Lawn. With a good friable or rich
loamy soil, it will always be a comparatively easy
matter to produce a good sward, if we select
the right kinds of seed. I should use to the acre
at the rate of about five bushels, weight measure,
of the following mixture: Hei Toi) (Agrot is rid-
gai-is). Crested Dog's Tail iCynosiints crlttattiii),
Kentucky Blue Graas (Pouprafeiisis) and Rhode
Island Bent Grass lAgrostis canina) of about
equal parts If not convenient to obtain all these,
either is good alone. My first choice is the Red
Top {.igrostis vulgiiiis) and second would be the
Rhode Island Bent Grass [.-igrostis canina).
After sowing and bushing in my seed, would sow
a goodly quantity of some fertilizer th.-tt contains
ammonia, and then roll the ground with a good
weight roller. When the grass attains the iirojier
height to cut, I should cut the first time with a
very keen-edged scythe; after the first cutting-
use the lawn mower, one with cylinder driving
wheel preferred, that the ground may be kept
smooth. At the approach of winter cover with
good thick coating of straw manure from the
horse barn, raking off the straw in the spring
and leaving the finer particles of manure on the
ground.- A'. V. Wilder before the Association of
.Ainericcin Cemetery Superintendents.
Seeds. The common advice is to raise them
We are told that if we will only save a few of the
best specimens for seed and then set them out
we shall get seed superior to what we can bu.v at
any price; but it is yet the question whether we
could better afford to buy pedigree seed, unless
we are to make seed raising a specialty. It is
work of great difficulty to select specimen Beets,
Parsnips, Onions and Turnips, and even choice
Cabbage and Lettuce; while the raising of Cauli-
flower and Celery seed is generally left toexperts
entirely. My rule in procuring seeds would be
to buy the best seed you can get, and along the
line of your specialties seek to originate, or at
least improve, on the best strain in cultivation.
The soil should be finely pulverized; not moist
enough to be sticky nor yet dry enough to be
dusty. After covering the seed with earth to the
depth of about four times the diameter oC the
seed, the land should be firmed or rolled. Where
laborers are scarce, hand work can be saved by
omitting to sow every third row of root crops.
In the broad spaces the horse cultivator may be
used. If the plants should be left a little thicker
in the rows then if every row were planted a full
crop may be expected.— A. B. Smith before the
Massachusetts Board of Agriculture.
Farm Forestry. Mr. L. B. Pierce, opening the
discussion on this subject at a meeting of the
Ohio Horticulturists, said it was useless to urge
farmers and horticulturists to plant trees for
forest purposes on arable land. A man who
could sow Oats in April and sell the product in
August, or plant Strawberries in August and
market the fruit in the succeeding June, would
not be easily induced to plant trees so that his
great grandchildren might run a portable saw-
mill. Private forestry could only be successfully
urged to the extent of growing trees for posts
and other farm uses. Probably private forestry
would take the form of planting windbreaks of
suitable trees . For posts the best trees are Locust
and Osage Orange. The latter is one of the most
durable, and yearling seedlings planted in a single
row two feet apart on rich land would average
two posts to the tree in -'0 .years. It makes a com-
pact close screen, and is, perhaps, the best decid-
uous windbreak that can be planted. For small
uses around the farm, such as whiffletrees,
handles, binding poles, etc., there are two trees
pre-eminently suitable, because of their strength
and the fact that they have no useless sap wood,
and rapidity of growth does not injure the tex-
ture. These are the Shell-lmrk Hickory and the
White Ash. Much can be gained in timber
growth by allowing stumps to sprout. The roots
already existing accelerate the growth wonder-
fully and the sprouts rapidly grow into tall,
straight trees. A Chestnut stump two feet in
diameter has nine sprouts, which now after 25
years growth exceed in bulk twice the original
tree. The Catalpa was also mentioned.
Tomatoes as a Money Crop.
[Ertract of paper read l>y T. (jreiner before the
Wetland County Farmers' Institute, Jan. !l, iHOO,]
Where large crops are grown and brought
to maturity, the cash returns from Toma-
toes are in favorable contrast with those of
most other ordinary farm crops. On the
other hand, the average crop obtained by
the average farmer can hardly be pro-
nounced remunerative.
Bequisites of Financial Success. To make
the crop a decidedly profitable one, we must
aim to have e.xtra large yields, and these
yields early enough to bring the whole crop to
maturity before the arrival of the autumn frosts.
With good, well-hardened plants of good varie-
ties to begin with, and with proper cultivation,
the two objects named can easily be reached in
any average season by a judicious method of
feeding the plants. But before we can get the
best results from applying manures, we must
learn all the effects that such applications have
on plant life.
Until very recently it was the general opinion
of expert Tomato growers that the free use of
nitrogenous fertilizei-s had a tendency to pro-
duce vine-growth at the expense of fruit. Con-
sequently the crop was usually idanted on thin
soil, lightly manured, with the natural result of
a light yield. This idea is yet prevailing, and the
practice common to this day.
This whole doctrine is wrong from beginning
to end. Large yields are only possible on rich
soils, or soils heavily manured. It is true that an
excess of available nitrogen in the soil will pro-
duce a large growth of vine; but this is iust
what we should aim for, since a large crop of
fruit is not to be thought of without a previous
large growth of vine. The only precaution we
have to take, is to supply at the same time an
excess of the mineral elements of plant food, i. c,
of potash and phosphoric acid, in other words,
to supply our plants with all the chances of a
well-balanced nutrition. Give to the |>lants an
abundant supply of all the elements of plant
food in available condition, beginning with the
very day they are set out, and a large and early
crop of fruit will be assured.
The Wrong and Eight Methods. It is a very
common mistake, to set out idants on thin soil
manured with fresh stable manure just previous
to jilanting. Soil and atmosphere are yet cool,
and but little, if any available nitrogen is present
in the soil at the time, since the process of so-
called nitrification, which is the natural conver-
sion of unavailable nitrogen into the available
nitrate form, by a sort of fungus growth, goes
on very slow in early spring. The consequence
is, the plants, merely for the lack of a little nitro-
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
135
^n, remain at a perfect stand-still until the soil
becomes warmed throii(?li suffieiently toset na-
turc'sdiminiitivc nitrate maniifaeturcrsto work.
Then the plants take a start, aiul if the appiiea-
tion of eoai-se manure was copious, thus keeping
up a lariie late supply of available nitrogen, they
will make a larpe late jrrowth of vine, set fruit
still later than they would have done otherwise,
and probably carry only a small part of the crop
to maturity.
Hcmember that we do want a large amount of
vine, our profits depend on our getting it, but
we want it early. And we can easily get it early
by manuring heavily with good compost in the
autumn before, and by applying some good fer-
tilizer in the hill at planting time, or by using a
high-grade complete fertilizer copiously in the
spring. The aim must be to put all the needed
mineral elements at the plants" disposal in some
form, and also to proride them with available
nitrogen from the very start. Then there will
be no stand-still; for the supposed "'check due to
transplanting or exposure" is nothing more nor
le.ssthan lack of a little nitrogen just at that time.
Nitrate of Soda. The method described will
do well enough for farm operations. The ex-
pert gardener, however, with whom earliness is
a matter of the very flpst consideration, hjis still
other resources in reserve. He selects the earli-
est good variety: starts his plants early: takes
more pains with them than it would pay the
farmer to do, who grows his crop for the can-
neries at about ?8.00 per ton, and makes his soil
especially if not so, excessively rich. His reward
for all this is the price of §2.00 per crate and
more often obtained for his fruit. But one of
the most important resources of the market
gardener is nitrate of soda: and its judicious use
offers him advantages which he cannot afford to
ignore. A mere trifle of it applied in the hill
when the plants are first set out, will furnish them
with just that small quantity of available nitro-
gen so sorely needed at this time in order to start
at once a vigorous and healthy vine growth.
Earliest and fullest development of the plants,
arid as the natural consequence, an early and
full crop of fruit, are thus secured.
Yet there is danger in late applications of
nitrates, especially when the mineral elements
of plant food are butscantily suppUed. Suppose
you have planted on thin soil, have noticed that
your plants have not made a particle of growth
for two, three, perhaps four weeks, and all at
once the idea strikes you to hurry them along
with copious applications of nitrate of soda, or
sulphate of ammonia. You will find that you
are only making a bad matter worse. By letting
the plants alone, and abiding your time, or bet-
ter by giving them a good ration of some high
grade complete manure (say Mapes' special Po-
tato manure I, you can retain the proper balance,
and secure an amount of fruit proportionate to
the foliage, even if somewhate late. By the late
and copious use of nitrate of soda, if at all effec-
tive you can only produce a strong growth of
vine too late to allow much fruit to set, or what
has set, to come to maturity.
The Advantages. By means of the manage-
ment recommended you secure early and full
development of the vines, comparative freedom
from disease, and a maximum crop— always a
paying one— and this whole crop in advance of
the autumn frosts. This is not the extent of the
advantages. You also secure perfect fruit. The
fruit of all varieties grows not only larger, but
also fairer and smoother on well-fed vines, and
consequently brings more money than the fruit
from starved plants which is liable to be small,
ribbed, scallopped, irregular.
Oive the Needed Space. 1 cannot urge with
too much emphasis the necessity of giving to
each plant the room required for the fullest de-
velopment which it is very likely to attain under
our improved method of culture. Here is where
so many fail. A few dwarf varieties. Dwarf
Champion among them may be set as close as
four feet apart each way: but for the common
market sorts — the Potato-Leaf, Mikado, Acme,
Perfection, Paragon, Cardinal, or the newer
Ignotum and Matchless— five feet each way is
the very lowest limit allowable,and five and one-
half feet will be better with the spreading ones
among these sorts.
Hardy Roses: Culture and Kinds.
[Extract of paper read by R. A. Moore, before the
Connecticut Board of Agriculture.']
That division of Roses known as the
Hybrid Remontant or Hybrid Perpetual
contains most of the desirable hardy varie-
ties. There is also a middle ground be-
tween these divisions, of Roses that will
with.stand our ordinary winters with slight
protection. This field is occupied for the
most part by the Hybrid Teas and Hybrid
Noisettes, two comparatively new classes
which have arisen : first from crosses be-
tween Remoutantsand the Teas, and second
between Noisettes and Bourbons. They
contain a few choice and almost indispens-
able varieties to even the most limited col-
lection. La France is the most beautiful
and conspicuous member of the first group,
and Coquette des Alps and Blanches of the
second group.
CaltiTation, The location should be an open
and sunny one, free from the injurious effects of
the roots and shade of trees, though shade in it-
self is beneficial. The soil should contain not
too much clay, nor too much sand.
Any good garden soil with natural drainage is
suitable, lioses almost refuse to grow in a dry,
sandy soil, but are equally impatient of a wet,
clayey one. These conditions can be modified by
drainage, the addition of sand, woodashes, leaves
and the like when too heavy, and muck, clay and
turf when too light and sandy.
In the preparation of the bed a liberal use of
stable manure is important, and unless the soil
is very heavy, cow-manure is preferred, but in
claye}' and cold soils, horse-manure. Do not
manure too deepl.v, nor is it necessary to make it
or the soil specially fine. A mixture made of
well-composted stable-manure, turf, leaves and
bone-dust is the best application, especially for
old beds. During the blooming season liquid
manure applied often and weak is beneficial.
If the plants are set in rows the distance be-
tween them should be not less than 2J^ to 3 feet.
The rows should be at least 4 feet apart. Early
spring I think the best time for setting, though
in dry soil fallmay answer equally well. If Koses
are received in the fall they can be kept perfect-
ly till spring by burying the whole plant horizon-
tally a foot deep in dry soil. This gives the
advantage of early spring setting which is im-
portant. In setting, make the hole sufficiently
large, arrange the roots properly, and firm the
soil weU with the feet, covering the hardened
surface with a little loose earth.
If budded plants are used they should be set
from .3 to 4 Inches deeper than those upon their
own roots. The large majority of Roses are bet-
ter on their own roots than budded either on the
Mannetti or Dog-rose stock. Clean cultivation
after setting is essential to a good growth.
Mulching is preferred by some during the sum-
mer blooming, and does well in a dry season.
Pruning. The chief objects are to give and
preserve a symmetrical form and to promote
growth for the flower buds. Plants of delicate
habit and weak growth require severe pruning;
those that are vigorous in growth should have
the shoots moderately shortened but the
branches well thinned out. The rule is that
severe pruning gives the best flowers but less of
them; and for quality few plants should be left
in the spring exceeding two feet in height,
though where an excessive growth has been
made the previous season it is not always safe to
cut back too severely. There is very little to
choose as to time between late fall and early
spring, though I prefer to prune sparingly in the
fall and complete the work the following spring.
Insects and Fungi. Among the insects we
have the common Rose bug or Hose chafer, the
catterpillar or leaf roller, the Rose slug, and the
Rose hopper. Hand picking is generally resorted
to with the Rose bug and leaf roller. Paris green
I have tried with only partial success. In white
hellebore is found a sovereign remedy for the
Rose slug and hopper. Mix one ounce of the
powder with three gallons of water and apply
thoroughly with a garden syringe or small
broom. A watering pot is hardly suitable
as the under as well as the upper side of the
leaves must be reached. Make the application
on the very first appearance of these pests and
at intervals as may be required. The dry powder
answers quite as well but is apt to give the leaves
an unsightly appearance for several days, es-
pecially if the hellebore is mixed with flour.
The best remedy known for mildew is flour of
sulphur, which must be used upon the first sign
of the fungus, or little good will result.
Varieties. A Rose for general cultivation
must be hardy, of free growth, of good form and
color aud fragrant; for exhibition purposes some
of the qualities must be wanting. There are
other desirable points, such as freedom of bloom,
permanency of color, beauty of foliage and the
like, hut the lirst five are essential. Some of the
most beautiful exhibition flowers fall short of
the perfect Rose fSaronem Rothschild the best
ligbt-colorcd Rose in cultivation, hardy, perfect
in form and color, but an indifferent grower and
without fragrance. M(i<l. Oahrid Lnizet, though
not equal in form and color, is hardy, a fine
grower, and somewhat fragrant. Louis Von
Boulte is probably the best dark Rose we have as
an exhibition Rose, almost perfect in form and
color, deliciously fragrant, but of poor growth,
and not entirely hardy. Both Fi.iher Holmes and
Haron dc Bongtctten would outrank it, both be-
ing hardy, of fine growth, good form and color,
and fragrant. The only ones in the lists which
need protection are Coquette des Blanches. Eliza
Boelle. La France and Louis Von Houtle, though
the others might receive some benefit from it. I
have both Blanches and Alps which have endured
the winters of the last twelve years without any
protection whatever; though the tops are more
or less injured, they renew their growth quickly
in the spring and bloom freely during summer.
Winter Protection. There is nothing better
than a mount of earth. Leaves are also good,
and an excellent plan is to cover the bed in the
fall with a heavy coating of leaves, then cover
this with coarse manure, forking it in the follow-
ing spring.
A few of the most promising new Koses are
Mrs. John Laing, Columbia, Clars Cochet and
Earl of Dufferin.
The popular Rose is very light or very dark
the intermediate shades being neglected. The
color of a Hose must be pure; a purple shade is
always an objectionable one. Most Roses incline
to fade into that color.
The following is a good list of stage or exhibi-
tion Roses: MerveiUe de Lyon, La France,
Mabel Morrison, Eugenie Verdier, Capt. Christy,
Fisher Holmes, Baroness Rothschild, Louis Van
Houtte. Mad. Gabriel Luizet, Jean Loupert;
Pride of Waltham, Zavier Olibo.
The three best Moss Roses are White Bath,
Crested, and Gracilis.
Shipping Crates and Baskets.
[From a talfc on '' Money or Small Fruits." before tfie
-V. r. State Agricultural Society by J. H. Hale.'
The baskets and boxes used should be
new and clean, and made of the whitest
wood that it is possible to obtain. All .should
be as rounding full as can be conveniently
packed without injury to the fruit. There
should be no inferior fruit put in, and that
in the bottom and middle of the package
should be just as good as that on top.
Baskets thus packed should be carefully placed
in clean bright crates or boxes, and of the size
required by the markets where the fruit is to be
sold. We in the east, mostly use the square
quart-American baskets, well ventilated at sides
and corners and pack them in thirty-two or forty-
eight-quart-crates that are all ventilated at sides
and ends, and are returned when empty.
In some sections of Pa., Ohio, Ind., Ills and
Mo. they use shallow boxes, about 14x20 inches,
called a tray: into these they turn loosely sixteen
quarts of berries Putting four of these, one
above the other, with a thin cover over the one
on top, and cleats nailed on the sides to hold
them together, makes a stand containing sixty-
four quarts. In the market, the berries are
scooped up, and measured by the quart, more or
less mussed , with a shrinkage of about 12 per
cent. This is an abomination, and surely no
money can be made on small fruits thus handled.
In the west aud south west most of the fruit is
send to market in what is known as the ' Hallock,"
a box five Inches square, two and a halt deep,
bottom elevated half an inch, so as not to crush
the berries below, and no slit or hole for ventila-
tion. These are packed three deep without any
slats between them, in cheap twenty four quart
gift cases and sell with the fruit.
I am satisfied after several yeai's careful study
of the markets, both east and west, that we are
ventilating our baskets and crates too much, and
by allowing so much air to reach our berries we
are not keeping them in good condition as long
as we might. Of course where berries are picked
in the heat of the day, and packed at once,
they must go in ventilated baskets and ciates,
also if wet from rain or dew, they will dry off
and keep longer when well ventilated, but I am
136
POPULAR GARDENING.
March,
clearly of the opinion that if we will pick our
berries in the cool of the day, or if picked when
warm we will at once send them to a cooling
room, and when thoroughly cooled pack them
in tight boxes or baskets, in crates where the air
will not directly reach them, berries will keep
twic« as long and in better condition than they
do now, in what we call our best yentilated
packages.
It is usually good policy to conform to the cus-
tomers of the markets whose trade we seek.
However, where we find those that have not
attained a high standard, it may be well to humor
them to the extent of sending second-cliiss fruit
in the old style, and market our best in the most
approved packages attainable. It will attract
attention to our goods, and win favor and custom,
especially if we guarantee every package to be
as represented. We cannot afford to spend eleven
months of careful cultivation of our fruits, and
then accept inferior prices, simply for the want
of a little care in the details of marketing.
Cranberry Growing in New England.
[Extract of paper read by J. ir_ Stockwell before the
Massashiissetts Board of Agriculture .^
The color of the matured fruit varies from
the light red of the inland berry to Cape
Cod Black Caps. The lighter berries are
finer flavored, richer and more juicy. The
darker berries, having a thicker, coarser
skin keep better. This difference in the
color of berries is in the soil and culture
rather than in the varieties. The Black
Caps which grow on the Cape become
brighter on the rich meadow lands in the
interior of the state.
The first requisite of success is a sure supply
of water for protection from the frosts in the
spring, insect pests in summer and early frosts
in the fall, as well as for covering the vines in
the winter. Next there must be a good supply
of coarse sand, free as possible from loam or
other impurities.
Their should be a main drain with sufScient
incline to insure a quick flow when desired, and
into this should be cut cross drains to carry off
water after rains as soon as possible. On our
inland meadows with a subsoil of rich muck
or peat from six to ten inches deep, any bog
will be more satisfactory if it is smoothly turned
over with a flat furrow steel plow, drawn by a
strong team. The sand can be applied at most
any time of the year. A portable tramway with
only three or four cars will enable you to keep
a good working force at the bank and do the
work to the best advantage.
The plants should be set in the spring, not later
than the first of June. I prefer the hill method.
The necessary tools are merely a home-made
marker, a pointed, round spud and a small
wooden towel or dibble for setting the vines,
W hen the ground has been lined off with the
marker, the spud is driven into the ground at
each intersection and carefully withdrawn so
that the hole shall not fill. The vines are then
set in the holes and the sand firmly pressed
around them. The \ines should be fresh and
thrifty and kept moist till placed in the hill.
They should be sorted by hand to be sure they
are free from any other root or grass, and when
straightened out cut into lengths of about ten
inches if the sand is six inches deep. After be-
ing thoroughly soaked in water they are ready
for planting out.
The first danger now comes from variation of
temperature, and the bog is a source of anxiety
from the day the water is drawn off. May 10 to
15, until the last berry is picked. The danger
from light frosts is not passed until June 10, and
the susceptible tender shoots, contiiining the
blossom buds, must be carefully guarded. In
the fall it is not safe for the owner of the bog to
be off duty after August 15, though it is seldom
that injurious frosts come before the 25th. The
green Cranberries are very susceptible to frosts,
but grow more hardy as the fruit matures The
early frosts in September this year would have
had little or no effect had they not occurred
from September 15 to 20.
Insect pests are the next trouble— the miller
and its result, the flre-fang, the fruit worm, the
cricket and the grasshopper. The unfailing
remedy is water applied when wind and current
unite to watt the insects safely over the dam as
the water is let off.
A thorough, careful culture is essential the
flrst and second years, but the third should give
a fair crop of flrst-class berries, 150 bushels per
acre being a fair average jield, though as high as
3.50 is not uncommon.
The picking is done by hand, costing from forty
to sixty cents per bushels. Pickers will make
from $1 to S2 per day of about eight hours. There
is no more beautiful crop raised than the Cran-
berry. The bud and the blossom are a thing of
beauty, and a well—cultivated bog from June 15
to the close of the season is very attractive and
enticing, most so as the fruit approaches ma-
turity, taking on its crimson tint, the berries
crowding one another for sunlight, the air and
the heat.
The CranbeiTy being an American plant, and
the berry as yet unknown in Europe, we have
no export demand, and must depend on the
home market; but the business if conducted on
the right principles and with strict attention to
details, is sure to make good returns for well-
directed labor.
Fruit Grower and Commission
Merchant.
{Itertis from a paper read by R. Morrill, before the
Michigan Horticultural Society,1
Selling fruit at auction will soon be press-
ing the commission men hard. It has been
tried in various places and has generally
given satisfaction, especially so in New
York during the past season. I believe
some enterprising man will soon try it in
Chicago, and he will be well supplied with
produce, at least until the success or failure
of the plan has been determined. If not,
some combination of growers will undoubt-
edly try the experiment, and it should be
put to the test early next season.
In dealing with our commission merchants,
there are a few things which we should not ex-
pect of him, yet which are too often asked. He
stands between two fires, one from the grower
and the other from the buyer, and we must not
expect him to protect us from our own iniquity
in any form.
If we use "snide " packages we must not ex-
pect him to get as good prices as he would for
standard packages.
If we will insist on stuffing the bottoms of our
packages with inferior fruit, we should not ex-
pect him to lose a customer on account of that,
but he should make the customer satisfied at
our expense, even if he has to even it up from
later shipments.
We must not blame him, if we send him a con-
signment with strict orders to sell at once, if he
sells low; or, if not finding a buyer, he takes the
lot himself at its market value. I have frequent-
ly heard shippers complain that they receive
sales while they know the goods are still in the
store. Sometimes this is their own fault, as they
compel the merchant to take this course in order
to hold their trade, and we must expect him to
buy at a safe price.
There is one feature of the business, which is
sometimes practiced, that we object to most
decidedly. That is the practice of making selec-
tions from consignments for storing, leaving the
seconds to be worked off, thereby injuring the
sale of the lot ; and in such cases proper prices
are seldom attached to the first selection.
In the matter of commissions, I feel that the
time has come for our dealers to reduce our
expenses somewhat in this line. Chicago is
rapidly approaching New York in size and
volume of business, and certainly no citj' has
better facilities for handling produce. StUI. the
old war-time rate of ten per cent is charged^
while I am told that such business is done in New
York and other eastern cities at five per cent.
Another item in the account, against us, is
the cartage— a small matter it may seem to some
but in the aggregate it counts up. In the account
of sales of three commission houses for berries,
one charges one cent cartage, another one-
half cents, the third two cents. The one charg-
ing me one cent has sold for me many years. I
am acquainted with the man who has his carting
contract and he is very prosperous. I do not
know whether he gets all the cartage charges or
not, but he certainly gets no more. Now, regard-
ing the man who gets two cents. Does it actually
cost two cents'i' Why will they not reduce tbese
rates to actual cost, make it uniform, and relieve
us of the impression that our commission mer-
chant is taking an unfair advantage of us? Have
we not ten or more merchants who will join us
in an agreement to reduce commissions and
cartage to the lowest consistent rates for all
consignments?
Massachusetts Horticultural
Society.
I "CliT^santhemums." a paper by W. A. Martda, before
the Massachusetts Horticultural Society. I
These deservedly popular plants have
been brought up to such a state of perfec-
tion that in their season they command the
sole attention of the flower-loving public.
In its native home, Japan, it is most care-
fully cultivated and esteemed as a national
flower and Japanese emblem.
The ClasBes. The genus Chrysanthemum com-
prises nearly a hundred species. The one from
which all the present varieties have been derived
is supposed to be the Cluysanthemum Indicum, a
rather inconspicuous single yellow flower.
The Chrysanthemums at present in cultivation
are divided into several classes, namely, the
Chinese, Japanese, Anemone and Pon^pon. Each
class is again sub-divided into several others, and
lately the hybrid varieties produced by inter-
crossing different types have brought forms that
are hard to class in any particular group. Thus
we have the Chinese incurved, Clilnese reflexed,
Japanese incurved and reflexed, Japanese anem-
one. Pompon anemone, mid so oa. The aim of the
raiser nowadays is to produce large flowering
varieties; the substance, color, stem and habit of
the plant seem to be secondary considerations. It
is especially noticeable that while hundreds upon
hundreds of new Japanese varieties have been
introduced every year, only very few of the
Chinese class have been added, while the Pom-
pons are discarded and rarely met with.
Hybridizing, When hybridizing, the principle
object should be to improve upon the vigor and
color of any varieties more than the mere size.
A first-class Chrysanthemum should be of free
growth, with stiff stems, the foliage clean and
furnishing the stems up to the flower, while the
flower itself should be of good substance, well
formed and of pleasing color. The colors which
are yet to be obtained, aside from the impossible
blue, which I never expect to see, are a fine clear
orange and clear bright red, which are wanted
to brighten up our collections.
A great number of the leading varieties of
Chrysanthemums have been from time to time
imported from Japan, and when the hairy variety
Mrs. Alpheus Hardy, made its appearance, it
raised a sensation among Chrysanthemum lovers,
and we hope that variety may be a parent of
quite a distinct class, although the seedlings
raised from it have not yet produced any that
were furnished with the glandular hairs which
give to that variety its peculiar beauty. The
majority of the Chryanthemums at present in
cultivation have been raised in Europe, and of
late years in America. Our country has started
late, but has made up for time lost, and at pre-
sent the most valuable and esteemed varieties
are American kinds.
A new variety should never be finally judged
the first year, but must be grown at least two
seasons before it is well tested. Some of the
most promising varieties have proven total
failures the second year, while, on the other
hand, many that have been condemned the flrst
year have proven valuable when tried another
season.
The hybridizing or cross-fertilizingot Chrysan-
themums is a very uncertain work as 'regards
results, owing to the mass of florets which are
gathered in one single head. It is very hard to
tell whether the floret has been fertilized with
its own pollen or cross-fertilized with the pollen
of another variety of the same class, but diflJerent
color, by the agency of insects, especially bees,
before the hand of the horticulturist has tried
his own work on it; and it is for this reasou that
no raiser of Chrysanthemums can say with any
degree of certainty that any variety is a cross
between such and such varieties, except when
kept separately from all other varieties of the
collection. In regard to the results it is also
misleading ; the colors of the supposed parents
are sometimes never reproduced, and if you
raise as many as fifty seedlings from the same
head of flower you may get all colors, but none
like the two parents.
Vigor. In point of vigor of growth. Chrysan-
themums vary considerably in various sections
of the country, as well as in different seasons.
Thus many of the varieties cultivated in Eng-
land for exhibition cannot be grown here with
any success, and iHee i'ersfj; while last .year being
exceptionally wet, none of the Chrysanthemums
planted out of doors did as well as usual. As to
the various sections of this country, we find that
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
137
in ami arouml Philadelphia arc grown the finest
rhrysjintlu'iniinis in America. Some varieties
also require different treatment from others;
Mrs. A. Hanly, Crimson King, Belle Panic and
others are very partial to excessive moisture.
The same applies to pinching; some varieties if
pinched late will not produce any tlowers at all ;
such are Granditlora and others.
Culture. The culture of Chrysanthemums is
very simple when the cardinal points are well
observed : namely, selecting strong, soft shoots
for cuttings and as soon as they are rooted never
to allow them to suffer for want of root room or
water, and after the buds are set to encourage
them with liquid manure.
After the plants have done flowering, they
should be cut down to about a foot from the
ground and iiut in the cool house or a well-ven-
tilated frame. In January the offsets from the
ground, and also from the stems or branches,
will be from four to six inches long, when they
should be cut and planted in sand, either in pots,
boxes or the propagating bench; a south aspect
and a temperature not above 55° by artificial
heat are very essential. As soon as the cuttings
have rooted they should be potted in two-inch
pots; from those they should be repotted in three
weeks into three or four inch pots, and again
when well rooted into Ave or six inch pots, by
which time the first pinching takes place. After
the plants are well established in five or six inch
pots they should be planted in theii- final quar-
ters: if in pots, ten to twelve inches is large
enough to grow the best plants ; if in bunches or
boxes, four inches of depth will suffice for the
roots. Then comes the fixing of the plant to a
neat stake, and tying it firmly, while pinching
and pruning should not be neglected. The last
pinching is dohe at the end of July, while the
ground shoots are not allowed to grow, so that
the whole strength may go into the main stem.
When the buds are well set liquid manure should
be freely given, and attention should be given to
the disbudding, as by leaving one bud to each
twig you will have the finer flowers, and the
plants will also look better with fifty perfect
blooms than with a hundred imperfect ones.
When large specimen flowers are desired, not
more than from four to six flowers should be
left on each plant, so that this very limited
number may have the benefit of the whole rtgor
of the plant. When standard plants are desired,
the best way is to secure a strong shoot early in
January, and leave it growing without stopping
until it reaches the required height, when it
should be pinched and treated in the same way
as a bush plant. Planting out and potting in
August may be practical, yet plants will suffer
more or less by being lifted.
To he continued.
CONDENSED GLEANINGS.
Tboroughaess in Drainage Essential. J. J
Warren sends to the Drainage and Farm Jour-
nal, a sketch of a twenty acre field and how it
was drained. His father had begun by putting
in a wooden drain from "E" to "C". This re-
lieved that part of the field from excessive moist-
' ' V
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7' '•■'' y^
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i
ARRANGEMENT OF DRAINS.
ure, and did so well, that the drain was extended
to "B" 3. But soon the wooden drains were stop-
jjed up, and he concluded to lay tiles. Four inch
tile was used from "E" to "C", three inch from
"C" to the mouth of the branch "B" 4, and
from this point to the pond two-inch tile. This
did well for a time, but in the next wet season it
was found that the tile was not near large
enough, and finally he had to do the whole work
over again, this time lowering the bottom of
trenches to four feet. The main drain, from "E"
to "C" is now laid with eight-inch tile. From
''C" to "B"; the tile are fi\'e-inch, the "B";linc
four inch, from ''C" to "B" 2 six-inch, and
the "B" 3 line five inch. The laterals are of
three inch tile. There are now about eleven
rods of drains per acre, and the cost is about
$7.50 |ier acre. Yet it becomes more and more
apparent that twice as many drains are really
needeil, although the land is doing finely. The
dotted lines show where the additional drams
should be laid. When finished there will be
about 31 rods of drain per aci"e. The pond "F''
is no longer a pond, but is one of the richest spots
on the farm. There are at least twelve or fifteen
acres beyond the field that naturally drain to
it. This drainage will be intercepted by trenches
around the pond on each side as shown in the
dotted lines.
Mushroom! in Open Air. In September, 188S,
I planted a brick of the spawn in a field of rich
pasture land, the operation being the simple act
of raising the sod with a spade, dropping into
the cavity a piece of the spawn as large as a wal-
nut and pressing the sod back again. On the
morning of the 2d of October, 1889, I was re-
warded by the sight of my first Mushroom on
the field planted in 1888. From my experience
so far I conclude that the spawn or germ of the
Mushroom, once in rich soil, resists for months
high or low temperature, drought and satura-
tion; but it does not develop into the perfect
Mushroom that it pushes above ground, except
under certain soil and weather conditions of heat
and moisture, and temperature sustained for
some days between sixty and seventy-five de-
grees Fahr. Days with these characteristics are
most apt to occur in May and October for these
latitudes, and sometimes in unusually cool sea-
sons in the summer months. Judging from what
I have observed so far, I conclude there is no
difliculty in growing Mushrooms on land as rich
in nitrogen and phosphates as the black soil
prairie, but the intense features of the climate
so much restrict the season of harvest, some-
times abolishing it altogether, that the crop must
needs be a precarious one.— B. F. Johnson in
Field and Farm.
The FoitonouB Primula Obconica. I am quite
able to confirm from personal experience, and
that of other members of my family, the poison-
ous nature of Primula obconica. The effect on
different constitutions was different in degree,
in one case the hands and arms only being at-
tacked, whereas in others the swelling of the face
and eyes, as occui"S in erysipelas, was so great
and the fever so high that the repeated attacks
of inflammation became very seriously detrimen.
tal to health. The attacks continued throughout
a period of nine months, and it was not until our
attention was arrested by a warning in a horti-
cultural paper in .\pril last, that the true source
of our malady was suspected. An immediate
discontinuance of all contact with the plants
which had previously been grown in quantity
here, resulted in entire cure, since which there
has been no return. The poisonous or irritant
property in Primula obconica does not affect all
constitutions. Many persons can handle it with
impunitj', and it is with infinite regret that we
have banished so pretty and useful a plant from
our greenhouses. My own impression is that the
iriitation is produced mainly by the downy
hairs, of the leaves and stems— a point worthy
it would seem, of scientific investigation.—
Gardening World.
Tree for Training Brapes. Long experience
here fully aflSrms the truth of Matthew Craw-
ford's statement that a tree affords the best of
all support for Grapevine, although notthe most
convenient. No doubt, the exhalations from the
tree foliage keep the Grape leaves in health.
The fine, high-bred, thin-leafed European Grapes
cannot endure the occasional extreme dryness
of our atmosphere, but do well in the damper
air of the California coast, even where the soil
is so dry as to necessitate irrigation. Two things
are especially requisite for free and full growth
of a Grapevine— one is that every tendril! may
find some smaU twigs or wire that it can clasp
and hold firm by, so that the young growth may
not be stopped by twistings and bendings in the
wind; the other is that every leaf may safely
bask in the full sunshine.— Quis-quis in N. Y.
Tribune.
Orape Syrup, Mr. G. H. Malter, a well-known
California \ineyardist, has succeeded in manu-
facturing a splendid article of syrup from Grape.
A large copper pan was built, and several hun-
dred gallons of Grape syrup have already been
manufactured. That now on hand contains
seventy-flve per cent, of saccharine matter by
the si»indlc and could, of course, be still further
redui'ed. To make a pure, clear Grape syrup
that will not turn to jelly or sugar and not burn
in the process is, in fact, quite difllcult. Mr.
Malter gets 160 gallons of juice from one ton of
flrapes. This is reduced to one-fourth its
volume, forty gallons. The Malter syrup has
been placed, on sale in Fresno, and will soon be
marketed in San Francisco. If received with
favor it will be sent east next season. Thus are
the practical uses of the Grape continually deve-
loped, and overproduction rendered impossible.
— Vineyardist.
The Pleasures of a Deer Forest. A correspon-
dent of an English society paper enumerates the
pleasures of being the tenant of a Highland
Singular ChTT/santhemum Floicer. See next page.
deer forest. He explains that the place costs
him £10,000 a-year, in addition to no end of small
sums, of which he grew tired of noting, and the
pleasures which he obtained in return for this
outlay were of the following character :—" For
a couple of hours at a time I have walked with
the waters of a running stream well over my
boots. A suit of clothes has been done for in a
day's wear. Twice or thrice I have sunk up to
my chest in a moss. Once I fell over a precipice.
Once when crossing a loch I fell overboard, and
was not fished out till I was nearly drowned. On
another occasion I was fired at by one of my own
gUlies, who said he mistook me for a ' beastie,'
of what kind I do not know, but 1 fancy I had
rather a narrow escape. Per contra, I have on
five occasions brought down a good stag."—
North British Agriculturist.
Sooting Orape and Fig Cutting. I prepared
my ground as usual, the soil being upland red
clay and gravel, distributed bags of sand every
200 feet along the rows, dug away a shovelful of
earth where I intended to set the cuttings, made
a hole, 2)^ to 3 feet deep, with a crowbar and
poured in enough sand to fill to the proper depth
then set in the cutting and filled around it with
sand to the top. Result, every cutting grew,
and they are apparently as far advanced now as
one-year-old vines or trees would have been.
The column of sand acts as a self-irrigator, and
retains sufficient moisture during the dry season
to enable the cutting to grow, and also allows
the roots to penetrate to a suflicient depth.
Coreopsis Lanceolata. This showy perennial
when planted with Penstemon tubiflorus forms
a pleasing contrast. It attains the height of
three feet, the rag-like flowers of golden yellow
borne in great profusion, standing out well
against the light and pretty foliage. It is grand
for cutting and decorative purposes. They ex-
act the simplest culture, any soil suiting their
requirements, though the richer the better.
Propagation by root divisions in autumn and
spring is advisable; where quantities are re-
quired, divide in May, pot and plant out again at
the end of June; plants treated thus flower in
July, and are ready to divide again in the usual
way. — cor. American Garden.
Sparrow and Caterpillars. Capt. W. F. Sea-
grave, British Consul at Baltimore, warns the
Americans that their policy in waging war
against the sparrow may prove to be a mistake.
The great 'blizzard' of March, 188S, he says,
destroyed multitudes of sparrows, and as a con-
sequence, the past and present summers have
seen a vast increase in grubs and caterpillars.
Already in many large cities the inhabitants,
through the public press, are complaining of
the destruction of their ornamental trees, the
diminished number of sparrows being unable to
138
POPULAR GARDENING.
March,
keep in check the va^t increase which has taken
place in noxious grubs, worms, and caterpillars.
—From Nature.
Lead Capped Olazin?. The annexed illustra-
tion will render the method plain. A A is section
of the bare, either of wood or iron: B shows sec-
tion of the glass between two adjacent bars; and
r D. C D that of lead capping; at C illustrating
the flange turned up to receive the gla«s, and at
D the lead turned down on the glass to secure it.
Any section of the bar can be used. The lead
being self-sustaining when rolled on to the bars,
without the use of nails to fix the same, enables
iron to be used as easily as wood. The glass can
be quickly inserted, is said to be held firmly
against wind, and will not slip.— Journal of Hort.
NastttrtiumB as House-Plants. Just before
the killing frost of last November a friend cut a
bunch of Nasturtiums in full flower. They tilled
two large vases, and were as beautiful a parlor
ornament as one could wish for. To the surprise
of all, they refused to wither; on the contrary,
they rooted freely, and have since continued to
produce their flowers and ripen their fruits in
the window, as freely as when in the border.
For house-plants where there is a southern ex-
posure, there is no plant so showy, so proliflc in
foliage and flower, and so easilj' managed as the
climbing Nasturtiums.— Am. Agriculturist.
Chrysanthemam Sport. Chrysanthemum
"Source d'Or" is illustrated on page 137. One-half
of the flower-head consisted of yellow, flat, strap-
shaped florets; the other of dark golden-
bronze florets, revolute at the edges. It seems
most plausible, that the appearance is due to the
unmixing or separation of previously blended
components. In a flower, which has been crossed
and re-crossed, and crossed again, for an untold
number of years, it is evident that the breed
must be very mixed indeed, and there can be
little wonder if a ''return to first principles'"
occasionally occurs.— Gardener's Chronicle.
Self Reprodaction among Apples. The Fa-
meuse is probably the most decided case. It has
frequently been noticed, especially among the
old French orchards about Detroit, that while
some trees produce fruit, ricblj' blushed, and
with all the other typical peculiarities of the
Fameuse, there are yet others unmistakably of
this type, but which are striped with gi-eenish
yellow and red, indicating a very possible repro-
duction from the oiiginal type, during the early
days of French occupancy, and the planting of
seedling orchards, prior to the more general
practice of grafting.— Mich. Fanner.
Varieties of Potatoes. Of varieties that can be
safely relied upon to make a fair return for out-
lay of cost and labor might be mentioned, the
Rural New Yorker No. 2, Extra Early Vermont,
Charles Downing, highly recommended by Ohio
Agricultural Experiment Station, Early May
Flower, Dakota Seedling, Dakota Red, Empire
State , season late, but otherwise very desirable;
Globe; Morning Star; Bell; Early Sunrise.
Remedy for Aphis. Best and cheapest method
of keeping down green fly is simply to place the
Tobacco stems on the hot water pipes under the
benches. I use at the rate of one ton of stems to
LEAD-CAPPED GLAZING.
10.000 feet of glass, but think less at a time would
do as well if the houses were clean of fly to start
with. After two months trial have yet to see
any evil effects.— E.H. in Am. Florist.
Potatoes for Manure. Whenever Potatoes are
very low. it will pay you to plant perhaps even
100 bushels to the acre, for seed; for large Pota-
toes are worth a good deal for manure whenever
they cannot be used for anything else.- Gleanings.
New Varieties. The horticultural public should re-
fuse to buy a plant or seed of any species or variety
that cau be tested In one or two seasons, unless it has
successfully run the gauntlet of the experiment sta-
tions.—Am. Garden.
Kieffer for Ornament. There are many lovers of
ornamental trees who plant the Kieffer Pear for the
foliage. I have seen speeimens with foliage as bril-
liant as any tree famed for Its autumn beauty.— Phila-
delphia Press.
European Potatoes. We have no reason to expect
from Europe varieties which are as good as the best
kinds which haveoriginatetl lu this country. —Bulletin
Minn. Kx. Station.
Kelsey Plum. Anyone intending to plant the Kel-
spy will do well toinsist that the nurseryman send only
those trees which have been worked on Plum stocks.—
Fla. Dispatch.
Fruit in California. The last crop Is estimated at
SlS.UOO.OtiO. More deciduous and other fruit trees will
be planted this year than ever before.
Pure Cider Vinegar. Give us a vinegar law in every
State. The decoctions sold for pure vinegar are
villainous.— Western Rural.
Complaint is made that farms are too large as a
rule. Yes, and gardens are too small as a rule.
—Western Rural.
Stndy of Floriculture. N'o other will give your
daughter greater pleasure, nor her home greater
adornment . —Ex.
Florida Phosphates may cure him. The tiller of
the soil in Florida is a sick man, sick with Impecunios-
ity.— Dispatch.
Vegetable Products on Table.
Fried Bananas. Bananas fried in batter make
a capital and seasonable breakfeast relish if
served hot and dusted with powdered sugar.
Pickled Onions. One guart of button Onions;
pour on boiling brine and let it stand for 24
houi-s, drain and wash well in cold water, then
boil in vinegar, Mace, Pepper pods, unground
spices, a tablespoonful of brown sugar. Put in
jars.— Ex.
Onions Scalloped. Hoit till tender six large
Onions; separate them with a large ?poon; place
a layer of Onions and a layer of grated bread
crumbs alternatelj' in a pudding dish: season
with Pepper and salt to taste: moisten with milk;
put in the oven to brown.
Potatoes for Breakfeast. Favorite dish in the
West Indies is the following: Two pounds of
peeled Potatoes are washed and grated; four
ounces each are added of sugar and butter
melted, one teaspoonful each of salt and Pepper,
well mixed; placed in a baking dish, and put into
a brisk oven until done; it shows a delicate
brown color.— American Cultivator.
Potato Puffs. Take mashed Potatoes and
make them into a paste, with one or two eggs;
roll it out with a dust of flour; cut round with
a saucer; have ready some cold roast meat, free
from gristle, and chop fine; season with salt.
Pepper, Thyme, or Pickles cut up fine; place them
on the Potato and fold over like a puff; pinch it
neatly around, and bake for a few minutes.
Cooked Celery. Cut it in small cross sections,
using nearly the entire stalk and roots and re-
jecting only the very green parts. Cook it in
but little water, so that, when the Celery is very
tender, the water will have boiled nearly away;
then add milk sufficient for a nice gravy, season
to taste with siilt and Pepper, rub butter and
flour to a smooth paste, and add sufficient to
make it of a creamy consistence. When the
sauce boils it is done.
Pumpkin Pie, Select a flne-grained, dry
Pumpkin, stewed and strained; one pint of rich
milk or part cream, one-half pint of Pumpkin,
two eggs beaten well with a fork, granulated
sugar to be real sweet, a little Vanilla, and Nut-
meg grated thickly over the top; a straight-up-
and-down earthen dish, two inches deep. Bake
slowly and carefully, as it should be fiiin when
done. Some people like to add a little molasses,
plenty of powdered Cinnamon and a little Gin-
ger.—Phila. Press.
Celery Fritters. Take tender hearts of white
Celery of equal length and size, stew them in
milk till tender. When quite cold, put into a
basin two tablespoonfuls of flour, make a well
in the centre, drop in the yolk of an egg, after
putting the white in a dry basin or on a plate, so
that it can be whipped to a foam. Use the milk
in which the Celery was stewed to make the flour
and egg into a thickish batter that will cling to
and cover the Celery. Next season it with salt
and Pepper and three or four drops of l^emon
juice. Lastly whip up the white to a stiff, rock-
like foam and stir it thoroughly into the batter;
dip the Celery into this, fry in boiling fat till a
golden yellow, drain on wrapping paper, and
ser\e quickly and hot. Do not cover with dish
cover or cloth, as it would destroy the crlspness.
If they have to be kept waim put them on a wire
meatstand in the oven with the door open.—
Germantown Telegraph.
Apple Turnovers. Mix a pint of flour, half a
teaspoonful of salt, two level teaspoonfuls of
baking powder, and three tablespoonfuls of
sugar. Uub through a sieve, and then rub into
It two tablespoonfuls of butter. Now beat an
egg till light, and add to it a generous half cup-
ful of milk. Stir this into the dry ingredients.
Sprinkle the moulding with flour, and roll the
dough down to the thickness of about one-fourth
of an inch. Cut into cakes the size of a saucer.
It is a good way to lay a saucer upside down, on
the dough, and cut around it with a knife. Put
two tablespoonfuls of stewed, sweetened and
seasoned Apples on each piece of dough; fold
over, and roll up, pinching the edges together.
Have on the fire a kettle containing hot fat
about five or six inches deep. When the fat be-
gins to smoke put in a few Turnovers and cook
for eight minutes. Drain on brown paper.
They are gorKl hot or cold. The Apple used in
turnovers may be flavored with either i.^innamon
or Nutmeg.
HOUSE PLANTS.
Airing. Give plants abundant air whenever the
weather is suitable, to harden and prepare them for
going out later.
Bulbs. The foliage of Hyacinths, Tulips, and other
forced bulbs may be allowed to ripen and dry off
naturally. Keep dry In the pot imtll fall, then plant
in the open ground. The bloom, although not flrst-
class, win be all right for cut flowers.
Carnations. The young stock Intended for next
winter's bloom need light and air but not much heat.
Cinerarias, if raised from seed early in summer, will
now be in bloom. They love a cool room, a sunless
window, but plenty of light, lots of wat*r at the root
and immunity from green fly. Calceolarias require
about the same treatment, only they shoiUd not bloom
till late in March or April.
Dormant plants in cellar or pits, such as Oleanders,
Hydrangeas. Cactuses, Lantanas. ete., for which room
can be found in the window, may now be brought in.
Others may remain at rest until the season Is far
enough advanced for their removal outdoors.
Geraniums, except those wanted for present bloom,
may be cut back for propagation. The slips will make
fine plants for bedding, while the old ones will be Im-
proved for summer bloom.
Insects now multiply rapidly. The free use of
water, especiallj- with occasional flavoring of soft
soap or Tobacco, will aid in keeping them In check.
Potting in case of window plants should as a rule
be delayed imtil the plants start Into fresh growth, or
show plainly that they are sulTering in their present
pots. Usually about the end of February or in March Is
the proper time.
Oxalis. Give plenty of sun. They will then be at
their best now.
Propagation. No better season for general propa-
gation than this. Cuttings of Geraniums. Coleus,
Petunias, and other soft-wooded plants are now
readily struck in sand in a light, warm place. Select
slips that are neither too hard, nor too soft. If brittle
enough to snap off readily when bent over, they are
in best condition for cuttings.
Richardia. Start this month for growing In pots
Shading. Many of the young growths are easily
injured by too much stm this month, especially Primu-
las and Camellias. Provide shade as needed diuing
the noon hours of clear days.
Soil for pot plants should always be carefully pre-
pared. Nothing is superior to well decayed turf lull
of root tibers. clear for some plauts, for Instance Roses.
with an addition of one-third its bulk of well-rotten
manure for most others.
Violets for winter bloom need about the same treat-
ment as Carnations.
Watering needs close attention at this season. See
also under " Plant culture under glass,"
LAWN AND FLOWER GARDEN.
Borders and beds, if unoccupied, may receive a good
coal of flne manure to be dug In deeply, the surface
to be left roughly for the present.
Bos. Edgings to be taken up, divided and reset.
Plant deep and Arm the ground well around the plants.
Old edgings may be trimmed latter part of month.
" Bulbs. Gradually remove the covering from the
be<!ls.
Cannas and Dahlias. Choice varieties may be
started lutti growth now with a view to division
somewhat later on.
General Directions. Repair the damages done by
the storms of winter. If ornamental trees have had
their branches broken, cut them off smooth and cover
the wound with melted grafting wax or coarse paint.
Evergreens hold the snow In their tojjs and are very
i89°-
POPULAR GARDENING.
139
apt to be lujured. If so, cut them back, just as If they
were deekluous trees, and if the removal of a lar«e
branch leaves an uusi^htl}* opening, or makes the tree
one-sliIed. draw other brancties together to till the
opening, tying them In a proper position, ami !n a few
years no sign of the damage will be visible. When
the leader of a young tree is broken, select another
branch, tie it to a stake in au erect position, and In a
few years it will form a good leader. A new place is
almost invariably planted too thickly, and judicious
thinning becomes an Important duty. Repair roads
and (uirks or make new ones when the weather permits.
Lawn. As soon as the ground is do' and ilrm enough
to allow walking upon It without injury, rake off
the rubbish, roll and re-seed where needed. Pull up
all large weeds by the nK>ts while groimd Is yet soft,
such as Dandelions, Burdock, etc. A home-made
"spud " constructed of an old broad chisel, fastened
to a handle three feet long will prove a convenient
help in this work.
Paeonies. Divide the large clumps If at all desirable;
or plant new ones as earlj- as the weather will permit.
Planting. The earlier ornamental trees and shrubs
are planted after the ground is In proper condition the
better for them. Half-hardy plants wintered over in
cold frames, should be given air freely to fit them for
early planting out. They must become well establish-
ed before hot, dry weather.
Roses. The Hybrid Perpetuals should be properly
pruned this month. Take out all small or sickly look
lug shoots. Pnme the remainder from six to eighteen
inches according to growth. Many shoots show black
blotches or rings on last year's growth. Cut away
below such spots, even if you have to prune down to
the plant itself. Moder.'ite growers should be pruned
to about six inches, and strong growers from twelve
to eighteen inches. The Teas and Bourbons are more
tender, and should not have all the covering removed
this month. New beds and borders may be prepared
80 that the ground may become settled before planting.
Vines may be trimmed and tied In their proper
places by the end of month. Manure well In spring.
PLANT CULTURE UNDER GLASS.
Begonias of the ornamental-leaved class should be
freely stimulated by applications of manure water,
etc.. to induce rapid growth.
Camellias after bloom to be given a higher temper-
ature and moist atmosphere with shade from direct
sun rays. Shift into pots one inch larger than those
occupied before.
G-loxineas. Start up some of them each month up
to May for a succession. Heat, moisture and shade are
needed for them. Treat Achimenes same way.
Orchids now require an abundance of atmospheric
moisture.
Potting. Let the young slips go into pots as soon as
roots appear, using small pots, and light rich soil,
potting rather firmly. Always place broken pots or
gravel in the bottom of every pot larger than three
Inches across for drainage. In pots of six inches or
more across, a layer of Sphagnmu or hay should be
put in top of the drainage, and before filling in with
soil. This will keep the lower drainage from clogging.
Florists who have good green house quarters and con.
veniences can repot their plants now as well as at any
time. This will help lighten the heavy burden of
spring work.
Primroses. Propagate the double ones from slips
now.
Propagation of Coleus. Altemantheras, Heliotrope,
Verbenas, and many other plants for simimer use may
still go on, as also of winter-bloomers for next year.
Pelargoniums. Air strong plants f.'eely, and give
liquid manure once a week.
Watering. Avoid extremes, and give each plant,
and each part of the house, just the amount of water
that is required. Considerable good judgment is re-
quired in this, else some plants in the same house may
suffer from dryness, while others are injured by over-
watering.
FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD.
Blackberries that were laid down for winter, may
now be uncovered and lifted up. >'ew plantations to
be planted, as early as the season will admit. Plant
In rows from six to eight feet apart, and two or three
feet apart in the rows.
Currants. For new plantations set the plants four
feet apart each way, and as early as the ground can be
well worked.
Cmtings of Currants and Grapes to be planted
early, setting them deep so that only one eye of Grapes,
or two at most of other cuttings, will be above ground.
Gooseberries. Treat like Currants.
Graftins- WTienever young trees are found to be of
less desirable varieties, do not neglect to make them
more valuable by a methodical system of top-grafting.
A few grafts of new varieties may also be put into a
thrifty bearing tree In an experimental way. Com-
mence with Cherries and Plums at end of this month.
Cut cions at once. Root-grafts usually do best if set
out as early as the ground is in working order.
Grapes. Tender vines that were laid down in the
autumn may now be uncovered and lifted up. Finish
pruning where not already done. Apply a good
dressing of manure, or bone dust and potash to the
bearing vines.
Insects. Prepare to fight them vigorously by getting
spraying apparatus and poisons in readiness. See also
directions for February.
Manure. Dig In the application made to vines and
trees In autumn. Apply special fertilizers, bone dust,
potash, etc., where such are to be used. Good manure
and plenty of It brings good fruit and plenty of It.
Planting. Early planting usuallj- gives the best
results, hence all trees, shrubs and plants should be
ordered promptly, to insure their being on hand when
wanted. Always unpack stock carefully as soon as
received from the nurser>-, and if too early for plant-
ing, heel in outdoors, covering the roots well with
moist soli, or put in a damp cellar and cover roots
lightly with moist sand or mos.'i, until planting time.
Raspberries. Treat like Blackberries.
Strawberries. Prepare the groimd for new beds
early, and thoroughly. Use plenty of good manure,
and mix it deeply and thoroughly with the soil. Set
plants as soon as the season will permit, having plants
from one to two feet apart. Try new varieties
cautiously.
VEGETABLE GARDEN.
Asparagus. As soon as frost is out of the ground.
apply a dressing of some good fertilizer or nitrate of
soda, cultivate and mellow the soil, and get it in readi-
ness for the crop. For new plantations make the
ground ilch, stir deeply; and set the plants early.
Beets. If the season and climate admit, these may
be sown In open ground.
Cabbage. Plants wintered in cold frame should
now have plenty of air, or be entirely uncovered, to
fit them for planting out in open ground as soon as
this can be properly prepared. Plants from hot-bed
may be transplanted into flats, one inch apart in rows
two inches apart, and transferred to cold frames to be
hardened oft.
Carrots. Treat like Beets.
Cauliflower. Treat plants as advised for Cabbage.
Egg Plants. Start as early in well-drained light
loam, and as near the glass as possible, in a hot-bed
with good bottom heat. Later on transplant into
shallow boxes an inch and a-half apart each way.
When plants begin to crowd each other i)Ot off into
three-inch pots. Always keep in strong heat and moist
atmosphere.
General Directions. Make provisions for the needed
fertilizers and other requisites. When weather per-
mits prepare the ground for the crops to be planted
next month.
Greens. Dwarf German. Remove the covering and
begin cultivation. A dressing of nitrate of soda will
be found of service.
Horse Radish- Sets may be planted as early as the
ground will work well. Use sets of thickness of pencil
and place three Inches below the sm'face.
Lettuce. Plants wintered in cold frames to be
hardened off for planting out. Plants from hot-beds
to be transferred to cold frames.
Onion sets maybe planted out just as soon as ground
can be worked. Set in drills twelve to fourteen inches
apart, and five Inches apart in the drills. Potato
Onions are treated same way.
Parsnips. Dig the crop yet in the ground as early
as possible. Also Salsify and Scorzonera.
Pejis. Sow as early as ground can be prepared, se-
lecting any of the first earlies of the Dan O'Rourke or
Early Philadelphia class for this purpose. The wrinkled
Peas if planted In cold ground are liable to rot.
Pepper. Start plants as advised for Egg plant.
Potatoes. Make provisions for good seed . Early
Ohio and Early Sunrise are yet leading sorts for the
Home garden and earlj' market. To prevent injury to
the seed from premature sprouting, spread the Pota-
toes thinly on the floor In a weU lighted room.
Radish. Sow in open air when ground is in working
order.
Spinach. Treat as advised for German Greens.
Sow seed in open ground in drills twelve to fifteen
inches apart.
Tomatoes. Start plants for early.
FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER
GLASS.
Beets may be sown in hot-bed or cold frame in rows
six Inches apart, and when well started thin to four
Inches apart In the rows. The Early Egyptian is usual-
ly selected for this purpose.
Carrots. Sow in hot-bed or cold frame as advised
for Beet. Use the Short Horn, and thin to two inches.
encumbers. Keep in a temperature of from 60 to 65*^
at night, with an increase of lu*^ by day. Fertilize the
flowers by hand as they open. Give air freely to plants
in new-made hot-beds.
Grapes. Vines with growing fruit should have a
good temperature and humid atmosphere. Give a
little air whenever possible to vines in bloom, but
avoid cold draught. Water should not be given freely
to them until fruit Is set. As the season advances,
the late houses need an abundance of air to keep down
the temperature.
Hot-beds may now be made at intervals for suc-
cession. The earlier made beds when vacant may now
be filled with Radishes, Carrots, Beets, Celery, etc.
Lettuce must be watered sparingly during dull,
cloudy weather, but aired freely as opportunity Is
olTered. Plants may be set for succession and seed
sown for plants to be used for early outdoor planting.
Boston Market or Tennlsball are among the best vari-
eties for this purpose.
Mushrooms. Manure may yet be prepared and
beds made for succession.
Radishes. Sow In hot-beds or cold frames in rows
three inches apart, thinning to one inch apart In the
rows. A row may also be sown between each two rows
of Beets or Carrots. The Radishes will be out of the
way by the time the other crops will need the room.
Air freely on warm days. Early Erfurt, Is a good forc-
ing variety.
Rhubarb, may be forwarded from now on by placing
kegs or half-barrels over the plants, and putting heat^
ing manure around them. The tops of the barrels or
kegs may be covered with boards.
Window Boxes. Where there is no hot-bed In
which to start the seeds, and forward the plants of
early Cabbages, Tomatoes, and other things with
which eai'liness is desirable, much may be done with
boxes set in a sunny window.
THE POULTRY YARD.
Kill the cat that develops a taste for chicks.
Wire netting of one inch mesh will keep out
animals that prowl around after the young: birds.
Select Your Breeding Stock. If you expect
good chickens you must breed from good parents.
Phosphate for Hens. A Tribune correspondent
says that his hens will eat commercial phosphate
as' eagerly as bones, and thinks it indicates that
rock phosphate may do as well for hen food as it
does for crop food.
Be Kind to Poultry. In raisiug stock of any
kind there is much saving of labor and actual
benefit by having the animals tame. This is true
of poultry. Tame hens lay and sit better, and
fowls of all kinds fatten better when not subject
to sudden fright, as is often the case with those
that are not tame. And then it is a pleasure to
handle and work with them.
Testing Eggs. At the tenth day of incubation
observe the air cell. If it seems entirely filled
you can rest assured you are giving too much
moisture. It is a good plan to examine an egg
from time to time to see that the shell is not
filling to rapidly, otherwise you may have an
incubator full of dead chicks in twenty-one days
instead of the cheerful, piping sound— Press.
Drinking Vessels. The most convenient drink-
ing vessel for adult fowls, is a water pail, which
should be sunk in the ground about two-thirds
its heitrht, and easily removed. But no chicks
should be in the yard where such vessels are used,
as they will get into the water and drown. It is
better to keep fowls and chicks separated for con-
venience of feeding and watering.— F. Re\iew.
Early Pullets. Success depends largely on the
time the pullets are hatched. If they come out
early thej" will have plenty of time during which
to grow and mature, thus bein^ in condition to
commence egg production on the approach of
winter. If a pullet is hatched and does not get a
good start it will remain useless until nearly a
vear old. It is the matured pullet that gives the
best result*.— Jlirror and Farmer.
Age of Eggs* Dissolve two ounces of salt in a
pint of water. When a fresh-laid egg is placed in
this solution it will descent to the bottom of the
vessel, while one that has been laid on the day
previous will not quite reach the bottom.. IE the
egg be three days old it will swim in the liquid,
and if it is more than three days old it will float
on the surface, aud project above the latter more
and more in proportion as it is older.
Choosing A Yard, The location of your yard
will have much to do Avith success or failure. A
sandy soil, says a writer in the Cackler, invariably
produces extra poultry, when the other condi-
tions are favorable, while a low or wet section
engenders disease and disorders, which decimate
the flocks, while the quality of the flesh of those
birds which do come through safely is not first
class bj'^ any means. Consider this.point carefully
before locating the yard.— Ex.
Garlic for Gapes. Garlic is a very strong ver-
mifuge. Chop raw Garlic very fine and mix it
with quarter its bulk of powdered Asaf<etida.
rub a little in the chicks' mouths, and it will make
them cough, and if the chicks are not too weak,
cure them. Very often the efforts that the chicks
make to expel the dead larvae only tend to accu-
mulate them in a lump at the orifice of the
trachea, which naturally contracts, and thereby
produces asphyxia. I had 48 chickens treated
with various remedies, but all died, and I only
saved 15 by Garlic- C. W. in Fanciers' Journal.
Shipping Crates, It is quite an object to have
the ci-ates made as light as possible to save ex-
pressage. There is nothing that makes better
cornel's or frames for such crates than the sticks
which are used to bind shingles together, and
which are usually thrown away. Save them all
for this purpose. You will find them very handy
and about the right length. Crates should have
strong floors, and the rest of them can be made of
old V)agging, laths or one-inch wire netting, ac-
cording to what the occupant will be. Wire
, netting put over a stiff, light frame, makes a
I fine shi]»ping coo]) for fowls.— Country Gent.
140
POPULAR GARDENING.
March,
Correspondent 8 are urged to anticipate the season in pre-
8enting questions. To aak, for instance, on April lb or 20
what Peas had best be sown, could bring no anatoer in
the May issue, and none before June, irn^n the annjcer
would be unseasonable. Questions received before the Vith
of any month stand a good chance of being answered in the
next paper. Not more than three questions should be sent
at one time. Answers to questions bearing on the com-
parative vaXue of implements, etc., offered by different
dealers must not be expected. Neither can we promise to
oomply with the request sometimes made to "please ansteer
by mail.*' Inauines appearing without name belong to the
name nesrt foUoiinng.
Replies to Inquiries are earnestly requested from our
readers. In answering such give the number, your
looality and name, the latter not for publication, unless
you desire. Write only on one side of the paper.
1.679. Tomato Rot. Can anything be done for it?
1.680. Cabbage Lice. Give best way to kill them.—
Subscriber.
1.681. Setting Asparagus Plants. Ground open;
plants growing. Can I set them out now?
1.682. Pruning Grape "Vines. Buds ready to burst.
Is It safe to prune now?— R. W.,Keliogg's Landing, La.
1,6SS. Fertilizer for Celery. My muck land Is good
for any ordinary crop, only Celery does not grow right.
What fertilizer should I use?— J. D., Darrtoivn, O.
1.684. Propagating Double Primroses. How done,
and at what season?— R. F. M., Cincinnutti, O.
1.685. Grape V"ines and Diseases. Has the Ameri-
can translation of the French work announced last
September issue P. G. yet been published? If so where
can It be had and at what price?— E. T., York, Neb,
1.686. Plum. Rot. Our Plums are all spoiled by rot.
What can we do for lt?-J. H., Kent, O.
1.687. Propagation by Sprouts. Will the sprouts
from roots of Wild Goose, Miner, Damsou and DeSoto
reproduce the kind?
1.688. Pruning Neglected Plum Trees. How should
this be done?
1.689. Zonale Geraniums. What are their distin-
guishing characteristics? Why are leaves of my Ger-
aniums turning yellow?— M. M. M., .Wir Sharon, Iowa.
1.690. Book on Poultry and Fruit. Can you recom-
mend a work suited for New Jersey?- T. J. L., Wilkes
barre, Pa.
1.691. Planting Early Crops. When is proper time
to start Tomatoes. Celery, Cucumbers?— A. A., P?iila.
1.692. Self Blanching Celery. Will the variety sent
out as NelUs* Self Blanching bleach without earthing?
1.693. Asparagus for Minnesota. Which variety
would you recommend?
I,6W. Small Fruit Varieties. Which give best re-
sults in Central Minnesota?-C., St. Paul, Minn.
1.695. Cost of Picking Small Fruits. What price is
usually paid per quart of StrawbeiTtes, Raspberries
and Blackberries?— A. E. B.. Ind.
1.696. Tree Fruits for Ohio. What varieties of Pears,
Plums, Cherries. vu'u*^"*?s and Grapes are most profita-
ble for market in Summit County and vicinity?— H.,
Big Rapids, Mich.
1.697. Mildew on Tomatoes. Many vines last year
were killed by a yellow mildew. It stopped when the
rainy season set In. How prevented?
1.698. Bark Cracking. Bark on Apricot and Plum
trees splits and cracks, often killing young trees. What
is the cause and cure?
1.699. Grapes Running to Vine. , Is it true that
eastern varieties run to vlue in Arizona, and do not
fruit?- J. L. R., Arizona.
1.700. Propagating Chrysanthemnms. How done
In large quantities?—!. S. J., Ohio.
1.701. Bark Lice on Pear Trees. How can I get rid
of them? A. B. A., Ohio.
l,Wi. Sweet Peas not Blooming. Why, when the
same seed produced blooms freely elsewhere?— H. C. B.
1.703. Grafting Evergreens. When and how done?
Would the clon of a variegated kind, If grafted on other
kind, keep its variegated character?— J. C. M., Cal.
1.704. Packing Trees. How best done for a journey
of 1.000 or 1.500 mUes?— A. L. D.
1.705. Protecting Strawberries from Grubs. Is
there any wash In which the $2.00 a dozen Strawberry
Slants might be dipped, or any other device that will
eep the white grub off? Experience not theory Is
wanted.— J. L., Pulaski, N. V.
1.706. Sizing for Hot-bed Cloth. Please give recipe?
A.M.. Ont.
1.707. Road-side Trees. What kinds would do best
In this state, and ou soil almost pure sand, except six
Inches on top? How close should they be planted and
howmanured?- B. B,, Dover, N. H.
1.708. Coal Ashes as Fertilizer. What value have
they for fruit trees compared with wood ashes?— M. L.
W., Ypsilanti, Mich.
1.709. Black Leaves on Orange Tree. It is full of
buds, but the soot like color on leaves does not wash
off, even with soap. Is It disease, and If so, how cured?
E. O. N'., Tracy City, Tenn.
1.710. Marianna Plum for Stock. How is It pro-
duced, from seed, cutting or by layering?
1.711. The Forelle Pear. Is the Trout Pear proving
a good variety In any part of this country?— TToottsidc,
Dayton, O.
1.712. Poultry Journal. Which would you recom-
mend? Mrs. cm., Col.
1.713. Table and Room Decoration. Do you know
of any illustrated book on this subject?— W. R. H.,
Yonkers, X. Y.
1.714. Honey Locust for Hedge. Can this be rec-
ommended?—T. A. I., Brant/ord. Ont.
1.715. Large Prolific Strawberry. What variety
yields as well as Crescent, having large berries?— C. T,
H , Ohio.
1,T16. Prunns Pissardi. Where can It be obtained^
and when does it bloom?— Mrs. E. M. W., Miss.
1,717. Strawberry Seedlings. How are they started?
Have not been successful with them.— J. S. M., A^ F,
l.Tlf. Spraying Pumps. Oneof considerable capac-
ity, say holding r.0 gallons. Is wanted. Which should I
select?— D. M., Camp Hill, Pa.
1.719. Tools for the Orchard. Where can those
shown on page 31 be obtained?— E. W. D., Me.
1.720. Violets from Seed- Can't get the seed to start
in open air. How should it be handled?— Wayside.
1.721. Sweet Corn. What are three most reliable
kinds, early, medium and late?
1,723. Value of Ashes. What difference in ashes
housed and left out doors?
l,?i3. Roses from Seed- Can good varieties be
grown from seed? How are they started?— J. L., Dex-
ter, Mich.
I,r24. Florida Cedar. Are they of quick growth,
and how many should stand on an acre?
1,?25. Grafting the Grape. If done in June, is the
new wood or last year's wood used forcions?— T. W.
I,?26. Apples for Market. I am ten miles from rail-
road. St. Louis Is my nearest town. Land, poor hill-
side. Freight excessively high . Will It pay me to plant
Apples tor market?
1.727. Green Manuring for Orchard. What crop is
best for this? Reader.
1.728. Alfala or Luzerne. Is this good for pasture,
or is there danger from bloating?— J. B., Perri/ Da/^.
Oregon.
I,r29. Mushroom Spawn. How prepared?— H.W.S.
REPLIES TO INQUIRIES.
1635. Shrubs for WiBConsin. Ailanthus and
Weeping yiorida Dogwood are not hardy in
Northern llHnois, and probably would not be
hardy in Wisconsin. The Weeping Florida Dog-
wood is a difficult thing to transplant.— A. B. A.
1.680. Cabbage Lice. These can be disposed of
by spraying the plants with strong Tobacco tea,
or the kerosene emulsion. Formula for prepa-
ring the latter has been published repeatedly in
recent numbers of Popular Gardening.
1.681. Setting: Asparagus Plants. This can be
done any time from fall to spring, when the
ground is in good working order.
1,596. Fruit Evaporating. The first requisite
is a strong steady current of uniform heat, pre-
ferably ranging from 150° to 200" Fah. The
arrangements for securing Ihis are as varied as
the different manufacturers can make them.
Whatever the plan, it is essential to rapid drying
that there be a good draught of dry air to carry
away the moisture given off by the steaming
fruit. The want of this is very noticeable in
damp muggy weather: the amount that can be
run through at such times being considerably less
than on bright, dry days. In handling Apples
see that not a moment is lost between the
pairing machine and the bleacher. The aim in
bleaching should be to pre\eDt fruit from color-
ing, not to whiten it after it is colored. Very
httie bleaching. suffices to do this. But above all
it is necessary to have good quick help, reliable
machinery and careful management, ft must
be done on close business principles or the
balance will be on the wrong side of the ledger.—
F. W. Card
1,615. FropagatinET Begonias, ^[anicata aurea
maybe propagated from stem cuttings if any
can be removed, without injuring your plant,
but the main source of increase with this as well
as Countess Louise Erdody must be leaf cuttings.
Use the older, 'hard leaves, cut off the stem near
the blade and cut away the outer portion. Place
the remaining part in moist coarse sand. Koot*
will form at the base of the blade. V^e bottom
heat if available, but they should root readily
without it. It is better to propagate Begonias
each spring, so to have young Iresh plants for
winter use. If the old plants are to be carried
over, they should be kept rather dry, and given
a partial season of rest during the latter part of
winter.— Fred W. Card.
1.682. Pruning Orape Vines, This work can
be done at any convenient time after the leaves
fall until spring, but autumn is usually consider-
ed preferable by expert vineyardists. If neg-
lected until now, the work should be done at the
fli'st suitable day.
1,685. 0rape Vines and Diseases. So far as
we are aware, the American translation of Prof.
Viola's work "'Amei'icau Grape Vines and their
Diseases " has not yet been published. As soon
as it comes out, our readers will be given notice
through Popular Gardening.
1.686. Plum Bot. The only method of combat-
ing this disease now known, is by gathering tdl
the affected specimens carefully, and destroying
them leaving none to propagate the disease.
1.687. Propagation by Sprouts, The sprouts
coming from the roots of Wild Goose, Miner and
other Plum trees are of course of the same
variety of fruit as was the stock of the tree.
1.692. Self-Blanching Celery. NeUis' Self-
Blanehing is probably similar to White Plume,
and If so, will need very httle earthing up. The
flavor, however, is usually improved by earthing
up in same manner as is usually done for the
common sorts.
1,684. Propagating Double Primroses. This
is not without difficulties. The time for this
work which offers the best chances of success, is
March, and perhaps early in April. Syringe the
plants two or three times a day, keeping well
shaded from the hot sunshine. Also cut away
ail bad leaves, and give a liberal supply of water
at the roots. This treatment, says one of our
English exchanges, will insure cuttings or side
shoots in about a fortnight. These are cut off
from the parent plant, and close to it, and the
loAver leaves nicely trimmed off, leaving three or
four fully-developed leaves around the heart.
Now insert singly in 3H inch pots in finely sifted
soil, consisting of loam, leaf-mold, and sand.
Press the cuttings gently into the soil, and water
with a fine-rose pot, but not over the leaves.
Plunge the pots half-way up in the propagating-
box on a brisk bottom-heat; put on the glasses
or lights, and shade from all sunshine; open the
box every morning early for an hour or two, and
sprinkle overhead with water gently according
to the weather. They must not on any account
be allowed to flag. In three weeks they will be
ready to take imt. when they must be caret uUy
and gradually hardened off. The temperature
necessary to bring forward the cuttings should
be from 60 degrees to 70 degrees.- .4?/icr(go.
1.693. Asparagus for Minnesota. For planting
on a large scale for market, the old, well-tried
and thoroughly reliable Conover's Colossal is yet
the variety which we would select. There are a
number of newer candidates, the Palmetto,
Barr's (or Philadelphia) Mammoth, etc., which
are claimed to be superior, but have not yet been
sufficiently tested to have established theirstand-
ing. These may be planted in an experimental
way on a small scale.
1,695. Cost of Picking Small Fruits. The
prices usually paid for pickers are as follows :
114 cent per quart for Strawberries ; 1 to 1J4
cents per pint for Red Kaspberries ; 2 cents per
quart for Blackcaps ; IH cents per quart for
Blackberries; 1 cents per quart for Currants.
1,699. Grapes Eunniug to Vine. We do not
know why common varieties of Grapes, that
grow strong wood in Arizona, should not fruit
there as well as elsewhere, provided they were
properly managed. Our correspondent also asks
for a list of fruits that we know will fruit in
Arizona. We are unable to comply. People
who live in Arizona must know much better
than we do what fruits succeed there, and what
fruits do not. Ask fruit growers living near
you ; but if they cannot tell, it is about high
time that they should find out by making trials.
We make this statement for the benefit of all,
who are inclined to ask questions concerning
local conditions about which reliable informa-
tion could be had near home.
1.637. Dwarf Pear Orchard, Like all other
crops, Pears on dwarf trees may be grown success-
fully in one locality, or ou one man's place, and be
a failure in another locality, or ou another man's
place. There are a large number of Dwarf Pear
orchards right in this iuimfdiate neighborhood,
and most of them bring money to their owners.
But soil and climate here seem to suit the wants of
the Pear, both dwarf and standard. There is
hardly ever any trouble to sell at a good price
all the good Pears you can raise, if you wdl
only produce them. So if your location is adapted
to Pear culture, and you make a good selection of
trees and varieties, and eive them the high cultiva-
tion that Dwarf Pears always require, you will
most likely succeed in making Pear culture pay.
But if you have an idea you can set any kind of a
dwarf Pear tree in any kind of soil, and then will
only have to wait patiently for the big returns,
without further effort, you will surely find out that
Pear culture does not pay.
1618 Pruning Peaches. If not already done
this work should be attended to at once. My plan
is to have my trees form a head as low as possible.
Many of my trees branch out as low as eight inches
from the ground. Prune every year, and cut off
one-half to two-thirds of last years growth. Cut
away all dead wood no matter how small; put a
pint of dry unleached ashes to each inch of diame-
ter of tree at grnund. and repeat this every year.
If this plan is loUowed year after year, little will be
heard of the yellows, and our Peaches will bring bet-
ter prices. I w^ould rather have one bushel of
Peaches containing 120 Peaches, than five bushels
containing 300 Peaches each —J. L. B.
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
141
l.Hfl. FlantinK Early Crops. Tomatoes for
early shoulii l>o sCarlod without tlelay in southern
Pennsyl\ ania; Celery may be sown in well-pre-
paroii l)e<ls in o^K'n air just as soon as the jrround
can l>e tltted in spring. Cuounibers for open air
culture should be planted durini? seeond half of
Slay: or if for early use, may be stnrte<l on in-
verted S("m1s. or in flower pots under glass last of
April, and planted out in May.
1.701. Bark Lice on Pear Trees. The twig sent
us was covered with bark liee, an insect which
often gives very serious trouble to the orchard-
ist and nurseryman. Its many enemies, among
them a species of mite, also the small larva of a
four winge<l (ti.v-like) insect, and the twice-
stabbed lady bird, cannot always keep it in check
suffioientl.v t-o prevent much damage to fruit
trees. Each one of these scales is sirapl.v a cover-
ing or blanket firnil,v fastened over a little cluster
of eggs and protecting them . Of course these
scales, and the egs^s with them, might be scraped
off the limb, and thus destroyed, but this involves
much more work than the average grower would
be willing to l>estow. We recommend to wash
or syringe the limlB with a strong alkaline .solu-
tion, strong lye. orsalsoda lone poundl dis-solved
in water (one gallon). This should be done in
spring, while the young lice are hatching out.
Painting the limbs "over with linseed oil, and thus
choking the life out of the brood, has also been
found effective.
1.708. Coal Ashes as Fertilizer. Coal ashes
contain next to no actual plant food, and there-
fore, as a Ifertilizer, are almost worthless. Yet
the.v have a tendency to repel insects, to improve
the mechanical condition of the soil, thus facili-
tating chemical changes, and also to serve as a
very superior mulch. The orchard is a very
§ roper and one of the very best places for the
eposition of coal ashes, and of wood ashes also.
l.tvtJ. Orafting Cherries, The Morello can be
grafted on common or wild stock; in fact we like
it better than on their own roots. We have been
experimenting on the Cherry for the last 2.5 years,
and our experience teaches us to have our grafts
cut in season and properlj' buried, and to begin
the grafting just as soon as the stock begins to
open leaf buds, using cleft plan, waxing well;
also wax top end of grafts to prevent evapora-
tion.—J. L. B.
1.709. Black Leaves on Orange Trees. Some-
times the dust and dirt and discoloration on these
leaves adheres so closely that it takes considera-
ble effort to get them clean. Faithful washing
and scrubbing with warm soap suds will after
awhile accomplish the desired result.
1.710. Mariana Plum for Stock. This tree is
readily progagiited from cuttings of the young
wood, in the same manner as Currants or Goose-
Ijerries, or LeConte Pear at the South, are grown
from cuttings. Probably good stock can also be
grown from seed of the Mariana.
1.712. Poultry Journal, Poultry World and
Poultry Monthly— both monthlj' papers devoted
exclusively to poiiltry interests, and costing Sl.2.5
per year each, or Sl.^0 with Popular Garden-
ing, are among the best of their kind.
1.7U. Honey Locust for Hedge. The Honey
Locust is entirely hardy, and a long-lived tree.
For a common hedge fence we know of nothing
superior to it in sections where Osage Orange is
not hardy enough. It is probably as liable as any
other tree to be girdled by mice when grass is
allowed to grow, or snow to accumulate around
it. Otherwise the tree iseasily grown, and rugged
enough to thrive where most other trees would
starve. It succeeds even in sod, and at the very
foot of large trees. Mr. H. Lutts of this county,
near ( intario Lake, grows more than (iO acres of
young plants from seed for hedge purposes every
year.-H. W. E.
1.716. Prunus Pissardi, Can be obtained of
Ellwanger & Barry, Rochester, N. Y., and all
leading nurserymen who deal in ornamental
trees and shrubs. It blooms at about the same
season as other Plum trees.— H. W. E.
1,718. Spraying Pumps, Write to the Field
Force Pump Co.. of Lockport. X. Y., to Rumsey
& Co . Seneca Falls, N. Y.. and the Nixon Nozzle
and Machine Co.. Dayton, O.. for their descriptive
circulars and price lists; then select the one which
you think will suit your purposes.
1,718. Tools for the Orchard. Most leading
seedsmen catalogue pruning and other tools for
orchard and vineyard. Send for the catalogues
of a number of leading dealers, and examine
them carefuUj". Tools of this description can
also usually be had at leading hardware stores.
1.711. Sweet Com. For earliest we shall again
use the Cory; fer medium Black Mexican may be
planted; and for late we know of nothing more
reliable at present than Stowell's Evergreen.
The Black Mexican is very sweet, very rich, and
very tender, in fact surpassed by no other sort.
It should be used before it colors much; other-
wise its dark purplish or bluish color is decid-
edly against it. Stowell's Evergreen may be
planted until June for succession. People who
do not like the Mexican Blackmay use the Amber
Cream instead, which is a very good variety for
medium.— H. W. E.
1.722. Value of Ashes. The difference between
wood ashes kept under cover and those kept ex-
posed to the weather, is that the former retain
their manurial properties intact, while the latter
lose the greater part of their potash by leaching.
But wood ashes make a good fertilizer even when
leached, and all should be saved and applied to
garden and ^)rchard.
1,72.5. Grafting the Grape. Of course the well-
ripened wood of last season's growth, such as
usually taken for cuttings, should be used as
cions in grafting.
1.723. Boses from Seed. The growing of seed-
lings is quite simple. In a recent issue of the
California Fruit Grower the following instruc-
tions are given: The hip or seed vessels should
be selected from plants that have a robust habit,
and the seeds should be well matured. The best
way to keep them in a germinating state is to
mix the unbroken hips with a lot of slightly damp
sand in a box. They can be kept in this condition
until the spring begins to open. As soon as the
ground becomes warm, remove the seeds feom
the hips and plant one-half inch deep in sandy
loam. If the plants are to remain where the
seeds are sown, they should not be placed too
thickly: indeed, it is a better way to place them
at regular distances, say from three to Ave inches
apart. In a few weeks the plants will show their
first leaves. They should be allowed to remain
without transplanting until the coming fall or
succeeding spring. The plants can be lifted and
transplanted into rich soil, when they will soon
show the character of their blossoms: or, the.v
can be allowed to remain where they are, and as
they come into bloom, those which are apparently
the most worthless can Ije grubbed out. It is
very often the case that a seedling Rose does not
show its best flowers for three years. If the ex-
perimentor cannot wait for the plants to bloom
on their own roots, buds can be taken off and
worked on strong stalks. In all probability these
will in a few months push out strongly and iiro-
duce flowers. The business is one in which
one becomes intensely interested, but to fol-
low it for profit, one should not expect any
good returns for some years. Thousands of seeds
should be sown regularly every season, so that
there will be constantly new plants coming into
bloom. It would be useless to attempt to save 90
per cent of the plants which wiU have fiowers
inferior to varieties which have already been
introduced. These, as soon as they appear,"should
be grubbed out and thrown away; but, if the
fiowers show any signs of promise, the plants
should be carefully husbanded and saved till such
time as thej' have either proved their value or
worthlessness.
1.726. Apples for Market. Under the condi-
tions named we would not go into Apple culture
very deeply. But if we wanted to make the
trial, we would certainl.v follow the practice
adopted b.v .vou to dig a deep and wide hole for
each tree, and fill this mth rich earth carted from
the low land. With profuse applications of good
manure, or of bonedust and potash, success in
growing the crop is within easy reach, and the
difficulty then will be only the task of getting
them into a profitable market. In regard to
propagation of Mariana Plum stock, see reply
to No. 1,710.— H. W. E.
1.727. Green Manuring for Orchard. We would
use Buckwheat altogether. Several crops can be
grown and plowed under in the course of a single
season. For southern localities perhaps Black
Peas iCow Beans) will give excellent results.—
H. W. E.
1.728. Alfalfa or Luzerne. This is usually
grown and intended for a soiling crop, or for hay;
but with the proper precaution, necessary in
pasturing cattle in any kind of rank Clover, we
see no reason why Alfalfa could not be used
for pasture if so desired.
1.729. Mushroom Spawn. The cheapest way
to obtain Spawn where but little of it is used, is
to buy it of some reliable seed dealer. For the
production of Spawn in large quantities the fol-
lowing method is practiced in Europe: In spring
or summer a ditch is dug about IH feet deep and
nearly two feet wide, preferably in a situation
with northern exposure. A layer of clear, dry
horse droppings is spread into the bottom,
and upon this a nine-inch layer of prepared
horse manure, then another light layer of dry
horse droppings, another layer of prepared horse
manure, etc. Each layer is packed down solidly
by tramping, and thorougnly saturated with
liquid manure (reduced with its own bulk ot
water). The heap is continued as it was begun,
and built up to about a foot above the surface of
the ground, nicely rounded off. It is now cov-
ered with soil, and may be planted with Radishes,
Spinach, Lettuce, etc. The Spawn will have
formed in 13 to U months, and is then forked out
in large chunks, spread in a dry, airy, half-dark
place to dry. When sufficiently dry the spawn
may be cut into bricks with the spade. The my-
celium has grown all through the mass, and even
the smallest part of it contains some. Spawn
thus prepared is said to retain its vitality for
from seven to eight years.
1,639. Plants for Bockery. The following are
among the best plants for rock work, the first
named being well suited to the sunny positions,
though care should be taken that the roots of all
should be so placed that they be in direct contact
with the bulk of the soil: Achillea tomentosa,
.\juga alpina, Adonis vernalis. Alyssum Saxa-
tile and the variegated form, Alyssum argen-
teum, -Antennaria dioicti. A<juilegia cierulea, A.
alpina, Arabis alpina, A renariavema caespitosa,
all the Armerias, Aster alpinus and variety alba.
All -\ubretias; many Campanulas, such as C.
Carpatica and alba, C. turbinata, C. rotundifolia,
C. fragilisandC. punctata, Cerastiums, Corydalis,
Daphne cneorum. Most of the Dianthus, and
especially D. glacialis, D. neglectus, and D. sub-
caulescens. Erysimum pulchellum. Genista sag-
ittalis, G. tinctoria, pi., Globularia trochosanthee,
Gypsophila repens, Iberis corifolia, I. sempervi-
rens, and I. Garresciana, Iris Iberica, I. Susiana,
I pumila. Lychnis Lagascap, L.Viscaria, L. alpina,
Onosma stellulata and Ocalis violacea, Papaver
nudicaule. All varieties of Phlox subulata,
PotentiUa Pyrenaica, Ranunculus fumaria-folius,
Sanguinaria Canadensis. .Ml Sedums, except
S. acre (or you'll wish it had never been intro-
duced). Silenes, such as S. pumilo, S. maritima
and pi., S schafta, S. alpestris and S. Virginica,
Tunica Saxifraga, Veronica alpina, V. prostrata,
V. petinata, V. rupestris and V. cercaeoides. The
Primulas that are hardy, such as P Siebodii, P.
veris and P. elatior need a shady position in
moist soil. Likewise most of the Anemones, as
A. alpina. A. nemorosa. fi. pi., and A. sylvestris.
Hepaticas, Hellebores. Vincas. LUj- of the Valley,
and Ferns all thrive best in shady positions.—
E. O. Okpet.
1657. Blackberry ctilture. The rows are made
eight feet apart and plants set three feet apart
in the row. Crops may be grown half way be-
tween the first year. Cultivate oneway and as
the rows spread mow off the canes. ha\ing a nar-
row for fruiting. If suckers between the rows
are treated as weeds, when green and easily cut
off, there will be no necessity for mowing. If
manure be applied when the canes begin to
make an unsatisfactory growth, and good culti-
vation be continued, there will be no necessity
of renewing the plantation, when it becomes
diseased.— L. J. F.*^r.mer.
1664. Fertilizers for Strawberries. Yard ma-
nure will not supply all the food necessary for
the Strawberry. It lacks in potash. Barn ma-
nure used alone will make large berries, but they
will lack in firmness and color. Ashes will sup-
ly the deficiency. The time of application has
much to do in the benefit obtained from using
fertilizers of any kind. Fertilizers applied dur-
ing the dry months of spring and summer are
mostly thrown away. Last summer I learned
the secrets of the most successful strawberry
grower in our town. We attribute his large
yields to applying a good dressing ot yard ma-
nure directly to the rows around and among the
plants. The fall rain will wash the goodness
down to the roots and very little is wasted. In
the western part ot the county, growers obtain
the best crops of Wilsons by scattering ashes and
superphosphate into the rows in the early spring
before growth begins.— L. J. Farmer.
THE COMPLETE GARDEN.*
XXXIV.
BY A WELL-KNOWN HOBTICCLTUHIST.
(Continued from page 12^'.)
Grapes Ujjder Glass.
The Cold (or Usheated) Graperv.
Exotic or foreign species of Grapes— proba-
bly the choicest of all fruits which we could
grow — have only in rare instances been a
success in open air culture. Yet no other
fruit or vegetable could be produced under
glass more easily and certainly. Given a
little glass protection (without artificial
heat), and the fruit can be had at about its
natural season in all its lusciousness. The
buildings may be of the simplest kind, and
even a few hot-bed sashes set up slantingly
against a six or seven foot wall or tight
board fence with a south-eastern exposure,
will give a safe place for a few vines.
Arranged in a neat, systematic manner,
such a simple, inexpensive "cold Grapery"
was illustrated on page 106 (Feb. number).
Of course, a building of this kind must te
in harmony with its surroundings. On the
well-kept premises of wealthy people we
expect to see a more elaborate affair: but
few persons are so poor that they could not
afford to have some sort of a Grapery, in
which this greatest of all luxuries in fruits
could be produced with little trouble.
X house with span-roof, something like
•Copyright, 1887, Popular Gardening Publishing Co.
142
POPULAR GARDENING.
March,
the one shown in annexed illustration, will
be found most convenient, and where cost
is no objection, should be given the prefer-
ence to the lean-to style, such as the reader
may picture for himself, if he will imagine
one-half of the span roof (cut through the
peak) placed against a solid wall, with
Grape vines set along the latter.
Briclc walls, as here shown, make a sub-
stantial, and decidedly the best foundation
for the sides; but good posts (Locust, Red
Cedar, etc.) set in the ground four feet apart
may be used as cheaper substitutes. Two
lines of 3x3 scantling are laid across the
rafters, at about equal dis-
tance from plate, between
one another, and from ridge
piece. The sash bars, at
about eight inches apart, rest
upon these scantlings. The
width of this house should
be about 18 feet. Chances
for thorough ventilation may
be provided in the manner
suggested in the illustration.
Thorough preparation of
the soil (border) in which the
vines are to be planted, is
one of the chief points of
importance, and indispensa
ble for the best success. The f
whole natural ground six to
twenty feet wide on each
side of the house, and pre -j-jHlS^fc^
f erably over the entire inside ' ' "? -" ■■ ■ti---3"»^
also, should be removed
to the depth of two feet, (German growers
recommend a depth of four and a half feet);
a lot of coarse rubbish, pebbles, gravel, etc.,
with several lines of tile for thorough drain-
age laid in the bottom, and the excavation
again filled up with a mixtiire of rotted
turf, rich loam or leaf mold, old dried pond
mud, and well-rotted cow manure, if possi-
ble with some addition of bone dust and
lime rubbish. Such things as old leather,
rags, wool waste, plaster from old walls,
old bones, sweepings, and in fact all rub-
bish of a similar character, will serve a
good purpose if placed directly upon the
drainage material in the bottom. The walls
for the sides must be left with sufBcient
openings to give roots a chance for feeding
both inside and outside of the Grapery.
Varieties to Plant. Black Hamburg
is the leading and most reliable variety for
planting in an unheated Grapery. Other
reliable sorts are Royal Muscadine, Buck-
land's Sweetwater, White Frontignan,
Trentham Black and Charlesworth Tokay,to
which may further be added Lady Downe's
Seedling, Muskat Hamburg, Red Chasselas,
Bowood Muskat, Early Auvergne, Golden
Hamburg, etc.
Planting and Cake. A well ripened
one year old vine, started from single eye
and grown in pot, is preferable to one of
greater age. Such plants may be procured
from our leading nurserymen. Set them in
May, when buds are just ready to start,
either outside the house, drawing the tops
through the openings in the wall to the in-
side, or with roots inside, one plant to each
rafter which brings them four feet apart.
In November or December the single
cane which was allowed to grow the first
season, and trained along the rafter, is to
be cut back to within three or four feet of
the ground, or at about the bottom of the
rafter. A bunch or two might be grown
the next season, but for the good of the
vine it will be much better to allow only
the single cane to grow, training this to the
rafter as before. In November or Decem-
ber the cane is cut back to about eight feet
from the ground, and tlie season following
will bear a good crop on the lower laterals
or side shoots, while the leading cane is
again allowed to grow to the top. The next
(fourth) season the vine will be strong
enough to bear a full crop the entire length
of the rafter.
The system of pruning and training usu-
ally atlopted is simple, and known as the
"spur" system. One main cane is trained
up along the rafter, up to the top, and the
laterals, which constitute the bearing wood,
are annually cut back to one eye.
The vines need some [protection during
winter to insure their entire safety. They
should be unfastened from the wires or
supports, laid down upon the ground and
covered six or eight Inches deep with sand
B O R D
R
A SPAN ROOF COLD GRAPERY.
or soil. Or a kind of trough may be formed
by setting up a line of boards eighteen
inches from the wall, the vines laid down
in this, and the space filled up with this
soil. Guard against mice.
Chief Requisites. These, during growth,
are (1) the maintainance of proper tempera-
ture, which should be not less than sixty-
five degrees P'ahr. at night, or eighty to
eighty-five degrees during the day; (3) co-
pious watering outside in dry weather; (3)
damp atmosphere, by sprinkling the floor
inside, except during the period of flower-
ing and fruit setting, when watering should
be dispensed with; (4) thorough ventilation
at top, and when necessary at the bottom
during clear, hot weather; (5) judicious sum-
mer pruning by pinching laterals to one
leaf; (f>) thinning the fruit when about the
size of a Pea by carefully clipping out one-
third of the smaller berries, with a pair of
pointed scissors, in order to allow those re-
maining room to swell out to full size; (7)
cleaning and washing the vines with a so-
lution of soft soap and tobacco water at the
time of laying down for wintei:, as a protec-
tion from insects; (S) the tree use of sulphur
as a preventive of mildew.
The cold Grapery may also be utilized
during winter in various ways. Many half-
hardy plants, such as Roses, Pomegranates,
Oranges, and others may be here stored,
with pots or tubs well covered over with
leaves or other materials, and thus safely
wintered. Or it may .serve as a pleasure
resort for poultry when the weather would
not permit them to he much out doors.
The Warm or Heated Grapery. For
forcing Grapes in artificially warmed
bouses, to come in early, a well constructed
lean-to will be found useful, but span roofed
houses are also popular and serviceable.
The grower may select whichever system of
heating he deems preferable. Hot water or
steampipes should lay upon the ground, or
near the surface, and not far from the cen-
tre line of building.
If fruit is desired by May, forcing should
be begun in December or January. The
boards outside should be well covered up
with leaves and coarse manure to keep the
temperature of the soil at about sixty de-
grees Fahr. Heat should never be applied
inside while the roots of the vines outside
are yet frozen.
For the first three weeks at the be-
ginning of the forcing process the inside
temperature should be held at about fifty
degrees, with ten or fifteen degrees higher
during the day. Gradually increase to sixty-
five degrees at night, with the correspond-
ingly higher temperature in day time, until
the buds begin to develop. This will take
about five or six weeks. When the fruit
has begun to set, which will be in about
four or five weeks more, the temperature is
raised to seventy or seventy-flve degrees at
night, with ten or fifteen de-
grees more during the day.
Proper attention has to be
paid to thinning, pruning,
airing, etc., as described for
the cold Grapery. The pipes
may also be painted from
the very beginning with a
mixture of sulphur and lin-
seed oil, as a preventive of
mildew and red spider.
The following varieties are
most suitable for forcing in
heated structures: Black
Hamburg, Muscat of Alex-
andria, Maddresfleld Court
^ Muscat, Trentham Black,
- Muscat Hamburg, Golden
Champion; for late, Barba-
^, -?£ rossa, and Lady Downe's
Seedling; for early, Chasse-
las de Fontainebleau, etc.
Black Hamburg and Alexandria are the
most profltable for market.
Grapes in Late Forcing Houses. Houses
of same construction, and heating arrange-
ment are used for late forcing. Fruit is
here desired from November on, and the
first aim must be to retard vegetation in
spring by every available means. The
house should be covered as soon as the frnit
is off the vines, to exclude the warming sun
rays, kept open on cold days, and closed on
warm days. The frozen ground outside
may be deluged with water, and when this
has frozen, covered with leaves and manure
to keep the frost in, and retard the begin-
ning of the new growth as long as possibly
can be done. During summer also the house
is kept as cool as circumstances will allow.
At the approach of cool autumn weather
the fires must be started, and greater heat
provided from the time that the fruit begins
to color. Ripe fruit may then be had in
November, and with proper handling
through the winter.
"^f^^^.^/fritrr^tgl ,
Station Horticulture. Experiment Station
Bulletin No. 4 of the U. S. Department of Agri-
culture is one of more than usual importance.
It contains a list of the horticulturists at the
various experiment stations, together with the
lines of work undertaken by each. The publica-
tion of these plans cannot but be productive of
good results in suggesting desirable lines of
work, in the avoidance of unnecessary duplica-
tion, and iierhaps in some cases leading to direct
co-operation. No co-operation work is pro-
posed in the buUetin except the distribution of
plants and seeds and the solicitation of certain
kinds in return. The names of forty-two
stutions are given, of which twelve have either
undertaken no work in partic\ilar or have made
no report. The principal work at most of the
stations is to be the testing of varieties of fruits
and vegetables, and a special effort is made to
induce originatf)rs to furnish new varieties to
the stations for trial. Seventeen stations intend
to give attention to synonymy. Only two propose
to do anything with seed testing. The improve-
ment of varieties by selection, and to a less
extent by crossing, will be an important work at
many of the stations. The improvement of
native wild fruits will receive special attention
at one station and limited attention at several
others. Plant diseases will be studied mainly by
the station botanists and by those holding the
office of both botanist and horticulturist.-^..4.C.
POPULAR GARDENING
AND FRUIT GROWING.
"ACCUSE NOT NATURE, SHE BATH DONE HER PART: DO THOU BUT THINE." -Mjuios.
Vol. V.
-A.I'iaiXj, 1890.
No. 7.
In tbe changeful April weather.
Playing hide and seek together,
Rain and sunshine, light and shadow, through the
woodlands come and go:
Now athwart the tree tops glancing.
Now amid the Violets dancing
in the quiet glades below.
Flitting through the tasselled Larches,
In and out the greenwood arches.
Now the vivid sunlight lingers, and its fltfui broidery
weaves
On the starry wind-flowers bending.
And the feathery mosses blending
With the red-brown Ivy leaves.
Ask fob It. One of our subscribers, in sending
a communication for our Inquiry Department,
promises ** not to bother us again." We are
alwa.vs pleased rather than bothered by recer\ing
intelligent inquiries, and answer them cheer,
fully, or hare them answered. If you do not see
the information you want, by all means ask for it.
FRurr Prospect. We are not scared about
the fruit outlook for this season, whatever the
reports from elswhere. The buds are yet all
right, and if nothing unforeseen happens, no
late frost like that of last year, no hail, etc., we
will not be likely to go without fruit this season.
We know the scare is great all over tbe continent,
but the damage is hardly ever quite as serious as
it has the appearance at first.
Newer Candidates for Popularity. In
our notes from PoptTLAR Gardening Grounds
we took occasion to mention Warfied No. 2 and
Haverland as the two varieties of Strawberries,
which were the most promising of any sorts
old or new on our grounds last year. The firm
who introduced the Haverland ( Cleveland, Nur-
sery Co., Lakewood, O.) also sent out a new red
Raspberry, the Thompson's Early Prolific, which
we find well-spoken of everywhere. Its earli-
ness seems to be a striking feature. Mr. A. I.
Root reports as follows : Thompson's Early i
Proliflc ripened before Strawberries were gone^ j
and in tact, a little sooner than anybody expects
Raspberries. In every other respect it compares
exceedingly favorable with any of the red Rasp-
Ijerries. Its only fault is that it is too early, if
that is a fault. The Kansas is a new Blackcap
Raspberry, introduced by A. H. Griesa, Law-
rence, Kans., as a " large, jet-black fruit of
delicious quality, very early, ripening the entire
crop in two or three pickings and a good
shipper."
Western New York Fruit Growers.
{Continued from paije l'i3.)
Erie Countt Report. Mr. Vamey has
noticed a growing demand for old Wilson
Strawberry, on account of its ability to
withstand the rough handling by express
companies. Early Dale is mentioned as a
new variety of Blackcaps which originated
in Erie County. The high price of sugar
during the past fruit season has been a
great damage to fruit growers. Grapes in
the county have been injured so badly that
the prospect for the coming year are for not
more than two-thirds of a crop.
MosROE County Report. Mr. C. M.
Hooker says he doubts that there was a
single barrel of perfect Apples in the county
last year. Pears had done a little better.
Almost all other crops were destroyed or
badly damaged. Pear blight raged to quite
an extent. Even Saunder's remedy did not
help where barnyard manure had been ap-
pled for two years. However, there is no
need of getting discouraged by one bad
year. The average profits are satisfactory,
if the business Is properly managed.
Ontario County Repokt. Again it is
stated, this time by Mr, Darrow, that fruit
growing is the most profitable industry in
the county. The only wise course, however,
is to plant a variety. Among older Apples
having special points of merit, are named;
Hubbardston's Nonesuch, which brought a
big price ; also Sutton's Beauty, Longfield,
etc. Perhaps people here have planted too
largely of Baldwin and Greening. Pears
brought high prices. Vermont Beauty is
growing in favor, as it possesses many
points of excellence.
Among European Plums the following
have done well : French Damson, which is
the best of the Damsons, bringing best
price; Field, Stanton, Middleburg, Prince
of Wales, Field is much like Bradshaw.
Stanton of medium size, very productive,
and very handsome. Fine for canning and
table. Of the newer sorts Czar and Grand-
duke promise well. Czar seems to be the
earliest on the list of the dark colored sorts.
Cherries usually bring good prices. Mont-
gomery and English Morello are good ones
among the sotir Cherries.
Among Peaches there are two new sorts
deserving high praise : Hyne's Surprise,
ripening immediately after Early Rivers,
and Horton Rivers ripening middle of Aug-
ust. They are perfect free-stones. Steven's
Rareripe is also good and profitable.
Apricots can be grown with profit in
favored situations. The Harris Apricot is a
growing variety, and ripens July 20th.
Moore's Ruby is the best flavored Red
Currant.
Blackberries are neglected, yet bring
good prices. Early Barnard has been on
trial. It is better than Snyder, and holds
its dark glossy color well.
Some Good Peaches. From Livingston
County comes tbe report that Hill's Chili
has proved to be hardierthan other Peaches.
It stood the frost well, and sold well. The
Seneca County report.mentions the Brigdon
Peach, which is found to resemble Craw-
ford, but seems to be morerproductive, and
of more even size. Mr. Willard says it
came from Cayuga County, and is also sent
out under the name of Garfield. Mr. Smith
of Geneva pronounces .it better than Craw-
ford. Has about 1,000 trees.
Embellishments of Public Grounds.
Mr. McMillan of Buffalo treated this sub-
ject in line.with his essay read before the
Society of American Florists in Buffalo last
summer, and published in full in these
columns, but somewhat modified and tem-
pered down in language, yet hardly less
strong in argument. Costly ornamentation,
he thinks, is out of place in a public park
on accoimt of pilfering and trespassing,
etc., against which all police supervision is
impracticable. To what extent bedding
plants and .shrubs, etc., can be used, de-
pends entirely on the gentle disposition of
the neighborhood, or supervision, etc. Mr.
McMillan also remarks that European trees
can be more easily obtained than many of
our fine hardy natives. Oaks, Chestnuts,
Beeches, etc., that are quite fine for park
purposes. Japan has furnished us some
very good things. Many of our native trees
ought to be much more freely used, if only
for their varying foliage in autumn.
To he (MntiniicO.
Lady Birds and Their Habits.
CLARENCE M.WEED.OHIO AGRIC'T'RAL EXP'RIM'NT STATION.
Six common species of the Lady-bird
Family are represented in the illustration
on next page, Fis. 1 to H. and the three
stages of a seventh are shown at Fig. 7.
From these the reader will see that these
lady-birds are neat and handsome in ap-
pearance, and if the colors were represented
he would also find that they are brightly
colored and beautiful.
These lady-birds are chiefly useful to man
as plant-lice destroyers. This habit of theirs
has been known almost from the time man
began to notice this insect about them. For
the last century the literature of ento-
mology has abounded with references to
this habit. The following admirable ac-
count of them was written nearly fifty
years ago by Dr. T, W. Harris, the author
of the famous treatise on Insects injurious
to Vegetation. He says :
" Plant^lice would undoubtedly be much
more abundant and destructive, if they
were not kept in check by certain redout-
able enemies of the Insect kind, which seem
expressly created to diminish their numbers.
These lice destroyers are of three sorts.
The first are the young or larva- of the
hemispherical beetles familiarly known by
the name of lady-birds. These little beetles
are generally yellow or red, with black
spots: or black with white, red, or yellow
spots ; there are many kinds of them and
they are very common. They live both in
the perfect and young state upon plant-lice,
and hence their services are very consider-
able. Their young are small flattened
grubs of a bluish or blue-black color, spot-
ted usually with red or yellow, and furnish-
ed with six legs near the forepart of the
body. They are hatched from little yellow
eggs, laid In clusters among plant-lice, so
that they find themselves at once within the
reach of their prey, which from their supe-
rior strength they are enabled to seize and
slaughter in great numbers. There are
some of these insects of a very small size
and blackish color, sparingly clothed with
short hairs, and sometimes with a yellow
spot at the end of the wing covers, whose
young are clothed with short tufts or flakes
of the most delicate white down. These
insects belong to the genus Seymnus, which
means a lion's whelp, and they well merit
such a name, for their young, in proportion
to their size, are as sanguinary and ferocious
as the most savage beasts of prey. I have
often seen one of these little tufted animals
preying upon the plant-lice, catching and
devouring with the greatest ease, lice nearly
as large as its own body, one after another,
in rapid succession, without apparently sa-
tiating its hunger, or diminishing activity."
One of these lady-bird larvs is shown at a,
Fig. T. It is the young of the twenty -spotted
lady-bird, and its life-history may be sum-
marized as follows: The adult beetle (c Fig.
7) deposits eggs in clusters of six or more
on the leaves of Iron weed. Wild Lettuce
146
POPULAR GARDENING.
April,
and other plants. In a few days the eggs
hatch into small larrje of the shape of the
one illnstrated. These feed for about five
or six weeks when they become full-grown
as larvae, and are ready to enter upon the
next stage of their existence — that of the
chrysalis or pupa. They attach the posterior
portions of their bodies to leaves, and soon
shed their skin. They are now pupa, and
look like!?i, Fig. 7. About ten days later
as any of our lady-birds. It is quite small,
nearly hemispherical, black with a bright
reddish spot on the middle of each wing
cover. It is sometimes called the twice-
stabbed lady-bird, but more commonly the
two-spotted lady-bird. Mr. George Dim-
mock, a well-known Massachusetts ento-
mologist, says of this insect: " This species
hibernates under bark, in bams, and even
in houses. In early spring the lady-birds
rig.x
Fig. 8.
Fig. 4.
Fis-6.
Fig. o.
GROUP OF LADY BIRDS.
the pupa skin splits along the back and the
adult beetles emerge.
Fig. 1 of the accompanying group repre-
sents one of the smallest species, somewhat
magnified, the straight line on the right
showing its actual length. It is the Paren-
thetical Lady-bird {HippixJamia Pannthc-
sis), so called because of the peculiar
markings on the rear of wing covers. This
insect is not so abundant as most of its
relatives,but sometimes occurs in numbers
where plant lice are plentiful.
The nine-spotted lady bird (CoccincUa
Novnniintata) is represented at Fig. 2. It is
one of our common species. It is yellowish-
red with nine spots on the wing covers,
arranged as represented in the figure, the
line on the right of which indicates its
natural size. The thirteen-spotted lady-bird
represented at Fig .3, is of special interest
because it feeds preferably upon plant-lice
infesting aquatic plants. It may be found,
in all its stages, in abundance upon plants
in ponds, and it is only seldom that it is
found on land plants. It is yellow or red-
dish, with thirteen black spots upon the
back, arranged as shown in the figure.
The convergent lady-bird (Hippodamia
convcrgcns ) is another abundant species. It
is represented at Fig. 4, the line on the right
indicating its natural size. Besides twelve
spots on Its wing covers it has two oblique
white lines on the thorax (the part just be-
hind the head) which distinguish it from
other species.
One of our largest lady-birds is represented
at Fig. .5. It is called the Fifteen-spotted
lady-bird, because of the fifteen black dots
upon the wing covers. It is a comparative-
ly rare species.
The most abundant species of this inter-
esting family is the spotted lady-bird {Mrg-
iUa maculatti) shown at Fig. 6. It is ex-
tremely common in summer, and in winter
may frequently be found under leaves at
the edges of woods, congregated in im-
mense numbers for hibernation.
There is another species of which I have
no illustration that is perhaps as handsome
come out of their hiding places, and lay
their oblong yellow eggs in little masses
upon the bark of trees, choosing localities
where there is a prospect of an abundant
supply of plant-lice upon which their larva?
feed. A few of these beetles brought in-
doors and put upon house-plants will seek
out the plant-lice, and the females if they
discover a colony of plant-lice, will deposit
their eggs near them, insuring their de-
struction as soon as the eggs hatch.""
The family forming" these lady-birds is
called Cociiullida'. There are a large
number of species found in the world, one
hundred and forty of .them occurring in the
United States.
Notes from' the. Popular Gardening
Grounds at La Salle-on-the-
Niagara.
Potato Seedllsos. We were more than pleased
last season with a lot of Potatoes we ^rew from
The seedling plants stood twelve inches apart
in rows fifteen inches wide, and of course showed
considerable variation in size, foliage, time of
ripening and especially productiveness. Some
of the best plants yielded over two pounds per
plant of well-shaped tubers, some of them of
marketalOe size, while the poorest had a large
number of tubers, the largest of which were
much smaller than a walnut. The seed was sent
us from Ohio, and must have come from a Pota-
to of the White Star type, for among all these
seedlings there was not one yielding red tubers:
all were white or yellow and most of them of
White Star shape. It will afford us a great deal
of pleasure to watch their development this
season. Of course all tubers will be planted, and
no cutting allowed. We shall also raise another
and larger numl)er of seedlings from choice seed.
We believe that the following causes: close cut-
ting of the seed so generally practised; insuffi-
cient fertitily of the soil: and injury done to
foliage by insects and poisons, have combined to
lower the %itality of our Potato varieties very
materially in recent years, and efforts should
be directed toward restoration of the former
health, thrift and productive capacity of the
Potato plant. There can be no more direct way
to achieve this desirable result, and obtain pedi-
gree seed tubers, than by more frequent renewal
from true seed, and propagating the seedlings
obtained from uncut tubers only, also giring
high cultivation and at the same time guarding
the foliage carefully against any mutilation by
bugs and beetles, or against being burned up by
caustic applications.
Home Impbove3ie>"ts. The almost uninter-
rupted period of rains, snows, freezes, and thaws
since December, which has kept the ground
either hard as a crust, or sloppy as mud, ex-
cluded almost entirely every chance of attempt-
ing improvements. It has shown us, however,
where drainage is yet imperfect. The surround-
ing lands are not underdrained, and in a wet
season habitually supply our grounds with more
[ surface water than is convenient for us, or l)ene-
flcial to our soil. To relieve us, in a measure, of
this outside supply, we are now having an open
ditch cut all along the land line, and this carries
a considerable stream of surfac-e water off to the
creek, thus affording us an opportunity to keep
the flood off our own grounds. At the north
side, where the ditch is deepest, the ditch sides
have been made slanting, and will be seeded
with lawn grass.
The HOT-BEn. Comparing our this season's
operations with those of last year, when all was
yet new, and to be newly laid out and arranged,
we can see the great advantage of the little pre-
paratory work done in the fall. The hot-beds
were got in readiness and a supply of good soil
provided, so we had little to do this hot-l)ed sea-
son, but to procure and prepare the needed
horse manure, make the tjeds as needed, and
plant. One thing only was not done quite right,
namely, looking after the best chances of drain-
ing the hot-l)ed excavation. This neglect has
delayed our operations slightly, and caused us
some inconvenience.
Eakly Cabbages. We have not attempted to
winter plants in cold frames, as we know we can
get Cabtiages as early as we care to have them
THETWENY-SPOTTED LADY BIRD; A LARVA; B PUPA;C BEETLE.
true seed. The plants seemed to be healthier,
and less subject to the two terrible pests iflea
l)eetle and bUght I which destroyed most of our
Potato plantations long before the tubers were
fully developed, than plants grown from tubers.
They were almost the only ones on our grounds
which ripened up naturally. This of course
might have been due to mere accident, or to the
greater watchfulness exercised over them, or to
the great stimulus and thrift given them by
large applications of high grade special Potato
manure. The latter was probably used at the
rate of more than a ton per acre.
by starting some plants of Early Jersey Wake-
field, which here is yet the most reliable of the
early sorts, in hot-bed in March. The same course
we also follow with Cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts,
etc. We need but very few of these extra early
Cabbages, and to keep up a succesion of early
oaes, and for late and main crop, we shall again
follow our favorite method of sowing in rows
directly where wanted, having rows about two
and one-halt feet apart, and then thinning to
proper distance, namely, from one to two teet
according to variety. We have never had more
' uniform success than since we adopted this plan.
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
147
The Periwinkle asa Bedding: and Pot
Plant.
Among the many desirable and worthy
plants that are undeservedly neglected,
or have not yet found the place in popular
favor to which their (jualities seem to en-
title them, is the tender Vinca or Peri-
winkle. This is all the more remarl<able
in view of the fact that almost everyone
who has once grown it, pronounces it a
very satisfactory subject. Our engraving,
reduced from the Garden (London), repre-
sents a well-grown speci-
men of Vinca rosea. This
Is the Madagascar Periwin-
kle, a beautiful tender
greenhouse plant. The
hardy trailing species and
varieties are among the best
known of garden plants.
The Ilowers of one varie-
ty of the tender section
illustrated are rose colored,
those of another white,
those of a third white with
crimsom eye, and com-
pletely cover the bushe-s,
which grow to the height
of thirty inches during the
entire summer if proper
attention is paid to the
plant's requirements. The
flowers may be found use-
ful for cuttlowers.
To grow nice specimens,
they should be started from
seed in hotbed or green-
house about the first of
January, in at least TO de-
grees Fahr., or from cut-
tings later on. They require
plenty of sunlight to pro-
duce short jointed wood,
may be potted ofi' in small
pots, and kept frequently
pinched to make dwarf and
compact plants with many
shoots upon them. For pot
culture they require about
the same treatment as Fuch-
sias, but they also make
a very superior plant for
the border. At the proper
time tor planting out other
tender bedding plants, Co-
leus and the like, the Periwinkle is to be
removed to a suitable location in the flower
garden. Here it will flower freely without
Intermissions to the end of the season.
Old plants, if so desired, can be taken up
at the approach of winter, cut bark severly
and wintered over as greenhouse plants.
The more satisfactory way, however, is to
start new plants every year from seed or
cuttings, as described.
north we And It to be the earliest, the Etampes
iie.xt, while we have had to discard the Early
Jersey Wakefield altogether, the Henderson's
Early Summer being fit to sell very nearly as
early,'and as soon as they are on the market their
is no more demand for the Early Jersey. I find
the succession a great improvement on Hender-
son's Early Summer Cabbage. To grow our
plants, we make our hot-beds the last week In
February, and sow our Celery seed between the
rows of early Cabbage, and towards the end of
March transplant the Cabbage into other frames.
It does not injure the Celery in the least, as the
Celery seed takes much longer to germinate than
COMMENTS BY READERS.
A department to which all are invited to send notes
of experience and observation concerning topics that
recently have been treated on in this journal. Many
such contributions monthly are welcome.
Vegetable Growers' Association. A great
deal of useful information on vegetable culture
is brought out by the Massachusetts Horticul-
tural Society and by the Boston Market Garden-
er's Association. Why is it that so little is done
in this direction elsewhereV Certainly Massa-
chusetts is not the only place where people take
an interest in gardening, or could make the pro-
duction of garden stuff profitable. There are
yet great undeveloped opportunities for winter
gardening in the vicinities of Inland cities and
larger towns. The diffusion of more knowledge
on forcing Lettuce, Spinach, Kadisbes, Tomatoes
and other vegetables— an enterprise which is not
only highly interesting, but offers no great diffi-
culties to those who know how, would certainly
lead to a better development of opportunities.—
Arnold Arnim.
Early Cabbages. My experience with the
Early Express Cabbages is quite different from
that of Mr. Hubert M. White. In our cold
THE PERIWINKLE AS A POT PLANT.
the Cabbage seed. We like the White Plume for
early, and the Paris Golden; the Dwarf White for
winter.— B. BrodU, Montrenl, Can.
Blackcap Raspberries. I first planted the
Mammoth Cluster in the spring of 1872, and the
original hills are stUl standing and producing
fruit each year equal to any Easpberry, and
better than some kinds I have. The Mammoth
Cluster is hardier, and more prolific, and will
stand cultivation tjetter than any variety I have
growing,except the Johnston Sweet and Shaffer's
Colossal. 1 have grown the last two named
varieties only three years fruiting. My ground
is of heavy clay with natural drainage. The
Gregg has been a leading feature with many fruit
growers, but with me and in my acquaintance,
the Gregg is placed about third-class in hardi-
ness, productiveness and flavor. It is a very
shallow rooter, hence will not stand drouth. I
And the Mammoth Cluster to give better returns
at the fifth picking than the Gregg at the third
picking. The Mammoth Cluster is easily picked
when the berries are only red, and will not shat-
ter when dead ripe, while the Gregg will not
leave the stem until quite ripe, and If left a
little too long, will drop very bad. In 18 years
growing the Mammoth Cluster, I have not had
any signs of winter kUl, nor have I seen the
fruit killed by late frost in all that time and
I have never failed to have from a fair to good
crop of fruit on the Mammoth Cluster, while I
have known the Souhegan and Tyler to be a
failure. I am now trying several of the new
varieties. So I would recommend to plant 7.5 per
cent of Mammoth Cluster, and experiment on
the others.— ^'. B. Linton, Carrol Co., Ind.
Gold Com Sweet Corn. We regard it as the
most delicate, tender and delicious Sweet Com
ever introduced. I have made a specialty of
testing varieties of Sweet Corn since 18.50, and
during that time have grown many very good
varieties, but for handsome appearance, delicacy
of texture, and delicious flavor, the Gold Coin
has no superior. It ripens late, thus furnishing
a supply of Sweet Corn of superior quality after
the earlier varieties are out of season. It re-
mains in condition for the table longer than any
other variety, and in case of frost that might kill
the fodder, it can be cut up and stacked, or
carried into a barn and remain in condition for
use for a week or ten days longer. Perhaps for
the extreme north it may be little too late in
opening.— F. B. Palmer, Ohio.
Brighton and other
Grapes. I was glad to learn
that Brighton Grape needs to
be planted near other kinds to
fertilize it. My very finest
vine of the newer varieties is
(if that kind, and I expected
wonders last year, as every-
thing that could bear fruit
was loaded. Imagine my cha-
grin when not one berry was
fit to eat, only a few small hard
things, the plant being isolat-
ed on the lawn, while 20 or 30
feet away are Pocklingtons,
small plants, and very full, and
Moore's Early, both corres-
ponding well with what Mr.
Crissey says of them except,
with us, the Moore's Early has
made the best growth of any
vine we have had, probably
because the ground is very
i-ich and loose. The White Ann
Arbor makes poorest growth
of any, and has never even
bloomed, although it has had
the best of care being laid
down each winter, pruned and
tacked up again in spring.
This is a great disappointment
since it was the one Grape of
great promise. The Stayman's
Karly Blackberry too has
proved of no value with us,
although having a choice place
and good care, its growth is
good, but fruit small and little
of it.— G. A. P/cdjs, jHd.
Warming Cold Soils.
You speak of making additions
to, such as sand, muck, and es-
pecially stable manure to cold
clay soils in order to make them
warmer and earlier. This is all
right so far as it goes. But
the trouble is usually deeper.
Such lands are usually not only cold, but moist
and often quite wet. The drainage is faulty, or
else there is not enough of it. This then is the
first thing that needs looking after. All your
additions of sand, mold, manure, etc., will do
very little toward making the land earlier and
warmer, so long as it remains wet. The addition
needed is plenty of good and perfect working
tile drains. Draw off the surplus water, and
give the surface a chance to become reasonably
dry, and in shape to be mellowed. If then the
substances named are added, we can expect to
get the full benefits from them, and eventually
see the land become warm and early.— Hard-
dealer, Ohio.
Principle Points in Tomato Crowing.
In a recent bulletin the Cornell Univers-
ity Experiment Station gives a summary of
points, which it is thought were well estab-
lished by the results of the season's experi-
ments.
Of the following twelve propositions or
principles we heartily endorse all except
points in No. 1 and 5, and also in consider-
able mental reservation in regard to the
comparative value of the varieties named:
1. Frequent transplanting of the young
plant and a good tillage are necessary to
best results in Tomato culture.
3. Plants started under glass about ten
weeks before transplanting into field gave
fruits from a week to ten days earlier than
those started two or three weeks later,
while there was a much greater difference
when the plants were started six weeks
148
POPULAR GARDENING.
April,
later. Productiveness was greatly increased
by the early planting.
3. Liberal even heavy manuring, during
the present season, gave great increase in
yield over no fertilizing, although the com-
mon notion is quite to the contrary. Heavy
manuring does not appear, therefore, to
produce vine at the expense of fruit.
4. The test indicate that poor soil may
tend to render fruits more angular.
5. Varieties of Tomatoes run out, and ten
years may perhaps be considered the aver-
age life of a variety.
6. The particular points at present in de-
mand in Tomatoes are these: regularity in
shape, solidity, large size, productiveness of
the plant.
7. The ideal Tomato would probably con-
form closely to the following scale of points:
vigor of plant, .5; earliness, 10; color of fruit,
.5; solidity of fruit, 30; shape of fruit, 20; size,
10; flavor, .5; cooking qualities, 5; productive-
ness, 30.
8. Solidity of fruit cannot be accurately
measured either by weight or keeping qua-
lltiy.
9. Cooking qualities appear to be largely
Individual rather than varietal characteris-
tics.
10. The following varieties appear, from
the season's work, to be among the best
market Tomatoes: Ignotum, Beauty, Mika-
do, Perfection; Favorite, Potato Leaf.
11. The following recent introductions
appear to possess merits for market: Bay
State, Atlantic, Brandywine, Jubilee,
Matchless, and perhaps Lorillard, Prelude
and Salzer.
13. The following recent introductions
are particularly valuable for amateur culti-
vation: Dwarf Champion, Lorillard, Peach,
Prelude.
Growing Early Tomatoes.
T. R. COON, WASCO COUNTY, OREGON.
In some of the sheltered valleys along the
Columbia River in eartern Oregon and
Washington, Tomatoes may be ripened in
the open field as early as July 1st.
Success depends upon proper conditions
and close attention from the very begin-
ning. The hot-bed should have eighteen
inches of heating material, and seven or
eight inches of sandy soil. This will give
strong and enduring bottom heat without
danger of burning the young plants. The
seed is put in about February 30th.
I take the trouble to put in the seed in
drills three inches apart and the seeds
about two inches apart in the drills, using
a knife-blade with which to pick up the
seeds that have been scattered in a saucer.
This will give each seed a fair chance.
Although rather tedious work, you get
out of the job of thinning the plants, and
besides, you run no risk of getting a mass
of slender white stems, all twisting and
crowding for room in which to exist, instead
of rows of individual plants, stocky and
beautiful, each having a vigorous constitu-
tion to begin with.
Probably the best time to water the plants
is in the morning before the sun strikes
them. Let the water be slightly warm.
Ventilate carefully at first but plentifully
towards the last; also giving less water as
the time for transplanting approaches.
When the tops begin to touch between
drills, they should go to the hot-house. My
plan of a hot-house for Tomatoes is to make
a tight floor with heating chamber beneath.
Cover the entire floor with sandy soil, well
enriched, to a depth of about six inches.
The walls should extend three or four feet
above the surface of the soil and may con-
sist of sashes of glass arranged to slide into
or out of their places. The roof may con-
sist of frames covered with canvas, as also
the gable ends. The north wall may he
made permanent, and a board wall is good
enough. I think it best to set the hot-house
a little quartering, so that the first morning
sun will shine parallel to the north wall.
In this way all the plants get the first morn-
ing rays which are better for the Tomato
plants than the last rays of evening.
Set the plants seven or eight inches apart
in straight rows, so that the first pair of
leaves will be but little above the surface.
After a few days, when the plants begin io
feel at home, the roof sashes or frames
should be drawn down in the day time,
giving them the full sun if the weather be
not too cold.
To break up the crust which is apt to re-
sult from watering, use a three-tined rake
to scratch over the surface of the soil. Cul-
tivate both ways, and your plants will say
thank you as plain as plants can.
When time comes for setting the plants
in open ground, take them up with plenty
of soil, well watered, adhering to the roots
by means of a new transplanting device,
and draw to the garden on a sled. Holes
are made to receive them, and partly filled
with some fine prepared soil— soil blended
with encouragement, such as Tomatoes de-
light in. Unload with the transplanter,then
pour water liberally into the holes, washing
the fine soil evenly about the plants, and
when the water has settled, dry dirt is
drawn about them. You will see no wilt-
ing here.
Bartlett Pear Losing Ground.
T. E. GOODRICH, UNION CO., ILL.
While examining several nursery cata-
logues I note that the once famous Bartlett
Pear is relegated to a third or fourth place,
or entirely left out. Are growers ceasing to
plant it? In market it is well and favorably
known because of its American name, and
its many good qualities — qualities so good
that many boxes of other varieties are sold
as Bartletts— a sure test of the standing of
any fruit.
It grows vigorously, bears abundantly,
carries well and is of unquestioned quality;
but its great f aiUng is blight. The mortality
of the trees from this cause ranges from
.5 to 15 per cent annually. This fact prompts
planters to search very diligently for more
rugged varieties. The great, and sometimes
even ludicrous, running after new and so-
called blight-proof varieties, is conclusive
evidence that men are not entirely suited
with the Bartlett, and are casting about for
something less tender to take its place.
The Wilson Strawberry headed the list
for decades. Who plants it now? Except-
ing in a few localities especially adapted to
it, we hardly find it at all. Is the Bartlett
in like manner passing into retirement?
Judge Miller's Fruit Notes.
Improved Tree Growing. That Apple
trees as ordinarily grown are short-lived as
a rule, is well known to many growers to
their sorrow. Any seedling will start a tree;
but it may live to a bearing age, only to die
like a person afflicted with hereditary con-
sumption. This is just the kind of tree of
which thousands are annually planted, then
the cry goes: Apple trees won't pay.
This will occur so long as Apple seedlings
are grown from promiscuous seed, and their
roots cut into pieces a few inches long upon
which a long graft is set.
Trees thus growTi are in a measure de-
pendent upon the graft in all their futiu'e
development, with the exception of a start
in life. But there are orchards planted that
live long, flourish and are productive, trees
that are properly grown on healthy seed-
lings, a whole root being used for each graft.
These begin life with a constitution which
guarantees their success if properly treated.
One might as well expect to have a house
stand firm where the foundation is built on
sand.
When I first came to Missouri twenty-two
years ago, quite a number of our best east-
ern Apple grafts were brought along. These
were set on old bearing trees in an orchard
here, with the expectation of getting fruit
sooner than the young trees we could raise.
They soon came into bearing, but what a
disappointment, the fruit was scabby and
rotted prematurely; Smokehouse, Jeffries,
Hayes, R. 1. Greening, Boston Russet, etc.,—
could it be possible that this climate and
soil would not grow these our favorites ?
But as these trees had broken limbs on
them, and in some instances knot holes that
had rotted into the trunk or limbs, it struck
me that that had something to do with the
failure.
Not to be defeated in this matter I at once
started a little nursery, raised trees, set out
an orchard, including these same varieties.
These have long since come into bearing
and such Apples we never saw in Pennsyl-
vania, sound and healthy, while in size and
color they are hardly recognizable to an
eastern man. One thrifty tree was grafted
with Newtown Pippin among the first, that
one part of the tree had broken off and the
stub had rotted into the main trunk. These
Apples for years got rotten specks, and
would fall off before the right time.
The axe was in hand to hew it dovni, but
on reflection I concluded to give it another
chance. I hewed off the rotten wood,
cleaned out all the decay, filled the hole
with common mortar, and nailed a board on
top to prevent the possibility of wet getting
in. The result was that the second year
and after, that tree bore sound, good-sized
Apples. Whenever a tree has a hole in it
that will hold water, the fruit will be in-
ferior, but if closed with some kind of cement
to keep out the wet, it may again become
healthy. The sap seems to become soured
by rain getting into the tree.
It is possible that had I doctored the trees
upon which my first grafts were set there
might have been different results; but be-
fore the idea of trying a cure, the trees were
hewn down and cast into the fire.
I am glad to learn that there is an exten-
sive nursery in our state that grows Apple
trees on whole roots, which they sell at an
advanced price, but the demand neverthe-
less is growing rapidly. In passing through
their nur.sery I was forcibly impressed with
the superiority of these trees over the grafts
on pieces of roots; for they also grow after
the common plan for those customers who
want cheaper trees.
Mariana Plum. This much-lauded
southwestern production did not come up
to my expectations so far as the fruit was
concerned, yet I deem it a boon to the
growers of stone fruits. It is a rapid
grower, will grow readily from cuttings.
Has stood the thermometer twenty degrees
below zero, so it is hardy.
This is the foundation for our slow-grow-
ing varieties of Plums and Apricots. The
latter, if on Peach, although they will grow,
are unproductive, and not hardy here. On
Plum they will be more hardy, will mature
their wood earlier, and the fruit buds may
stand a lower temperature without being
killed.
I have a dozen trees of the new Russian
varieties, that are growing fine. They are
on Plum stocks; are planted on a northern
slope so as not to be too early in blooming.
It would be quite a comfort if we could
grow this delicious fruit successfully.
But our Mariana stock has another mis-
sion to fulfill. The Peach takes and grows
freely on it, and may we not have hardier
trees, as well as freedom from the borer,
which, although not very troublesome here,
is still a nuisance.
1889.
POPULAR GARDENING.
149
Some think it may also prevent the yellows
in Peach trees, where that malady is so de-
structive. Here we know nothing of that
disease. The Peach will live here to get
one foot in diameter at the ground, unless
a winter occurs with thirty degrees below
zero, then they begin to decay at the heart
and in a few years are done for.
At this time. February ."ith, nine-tenths of
the budded Peach blossom buds are killed;
the natural ones sound yet. Pears and
Cherries badly damaged.
A few sunshiny days will open some blos-
som buds, which will likely go under, for
there will certainly be some very cold
weather yet before spring comes to stay.
How to Start Fine Seeds.
HE-N"RT C. GREY. ILLS.
I have a device of my own contrivance
for starting fine seeds, such as Begonias,
Gloxinias, etc. It meets no conditions of
heat, though any person of ordinary inge-
nuity can add bottom heat fixtures, which
without great expense or serious complica-
tions will add any required heat conditions.
Where an average temperature of 70° aud
over in the day time, and tiO to ti.5° at night,
can be had, as is the case in many living
rooms, bottom heat is rarely necessary.
The seed box should be about two inches
in depth, but where no large amount of
seeds are to be sown, or where it is desir-
able to have them light enough to be easily
handled, a common cigar box about two
inches deep, and having drainage holes
through the bottom will answer. On the
outside of this box, about half an inch from
the top, narrow strips should be tacked as a
support for an extension. The essential
feature of the contrivance consists of a
piece of glass cut large enough to entirely
cover the box, on the underside of which is
fastened evenly a coating of thick white
flannel. Two thicknesses would be better
if there is danger of occasional neglect, but
it must be fastened evenly so that there be
no folds to admit unnecessary dry air be-
tween the top of the box and the flannel-
covered glass.
Now fill your seed box with earth of the
proper kind up to within half an inch or
less of the top of the box; for most purposes
within a quarter of an inch would be best.
How the seed should be sown must depend
upon the character of the seed itself, and is
not intended to be within the province of
this article. Suffice it to say that such
minute seeds as those of Begonia should
not be covered at all. and there are others,
much larger, of which the same may be
said. The soil, however, should for all be in
a moist, not water-soaked, condition, when
the seeds are sown.
Wet the flannel each morning and even-
ing, using, preferably, hot water. Any
other moistening of the earth will rarely be
necessary, but should it become so, do not
sprinkle the earth, but place the boxes in a
pan of warm water of sufficient depth to
reach up to about half the height of the box,
and let it remain there ten or fifteen
minutes. Be careful not to give so much
water as to make the ground be thoroughly
water-soaked. Usually ten minutes in the
water will be more than ample, for though
the absorbed moisture will not have appear-
ed at the top by that time, it will within an
hour or two be entirely diffused throughout
the earth.
In due time the seedlings will make their
appearance, and as soon as is desirable, a
glass without flannel, or at first one covered
with thin, white flannel, may be substituted.
In the meantime prepare a box or frame
similar to the cigar box, but enough larger
to slip easily over the outside of the box,
and rest upon the narrow strips tacked upon
the outside of the seed box. It has neither
top nor bottom, and should be of a height
not to exceed an inch above the height of
the seed box. Its purpose is merely to give
room for the growing seedlings, and the
strips may be so arranged that they can be
raised or lowered, by any suitable device
easy of construction. The glass must be
sufficiently large to cover the extension
frame, and in the case of seedlings requiring
shade, be covered with thin white flannel.
For a number of years past I have grown
such seeds as Gloxinias, Begonias, Prim-
roses, Cyclamen, etc., in boxes substantially
like those described, with unvarying suc-
cess, and such boxes will prove great helps
to amateur florists even with the more com-
mon seeds.
Cucumber Enemies.
A. P. BEID, CUSIBERLAND CO., ME.
Bugs are plenty enough, but the worst
enemy that I have to deal with is the borers
that infest the roots. They are so minute
as to be hard to find, but the drooping of the
vines from day to day tells the story.
These borers are very destructive even
after the vines are well grown. I think they
are most troublesome in moist ground. Last
season I tried various things, but finally had
good success with salt, which I dissolved in
water and sprinkled about the roots. This
may seem rather harsh treatment, and of
course might kill the vines if applied indis-
criminately, but I succeeded in either kill-
ing or driving away the plagues with this
remedy without killing a single vinit. The
solution was not put on the vines direct; I
simply saturated the soil about them.
Cautious experimenting will easily dem-
onstrate what the vines will stand, and this
will prove beneficial in more ways than one.
The vine family like a warm, light loam,
and my experience would suggest that in
such a soil the root enemies will be the least
troublesome. Considering how numerous
and various the enemies of this class of
plants are, it is always policy to put in many
more seeds than are wanted, and to grow
them as rapidly as possible.
Points in Dandelion Culture.
W. C. JENNISON, MIDDLESE.X CO., MASS.
Preparation of the Soil and Sowing.
— Select land free from sods, spread stable
manure over the surface to the depth of two
or three inches; plow it under, then cross-
plow, rake over the surface and cast of all
stones and rubbish, when it will be ready
for the seed sower.
If you have one-fourth acre or more to
sow, procure a seed-sower by all means, as
it will more than pay for itself in one season.
We are the most successful when we
barely cover the seed from sight, and then
firm the soil well over it, )i to }{ inch being
plenty deep enough to plant. It takes six
to ten days for the plants to appear, and
about ten days more before much can be
done in the way of cultivation, as the plants
are small and grow close to the ground;
for this reason it is highly important to get
the seed in the ground early, so that the
plants can be cultivated before Purslane
gets a start, for where such is the case, the
labor is increased about fifty per cent.
CULTiv.\TioN. From experiments tried
we find it most profitable to thin plants to
three inches apart in the row and that they
are more easily cared for when in rows
fourteen inches apart, instead of twelve.
After the plants cover the ground and
attain the height of twelve to fifteen inches,
we mow them down, rake off the leaves
and go over the bed with a hoe or hand
cultivator. New leaves will soon cover the
ground again, and will need no more care
till fall, when they should receive a cover-
ing of coarse litter.
Cattle are fond of the leaves which at first
increase the flow of milk, but when fed
exclusively for many days, seem to have
the reverse tendency. The leaves are also
much relished by horses.
Planting. Dandelions are easily trans-
planted, and as very large plants can be
raised, and much hand weeding saved,
some prefer to grow them in this way.
Furrows are struck out two feet apart
and plants set about four inches apart in the
row, a little soil being placed against the
roots to keep them in place till a hand cul-
tivator is run between the furrows to com-
plete the filling in of the same.
To grow a supply of roots, the following
method is most likely to give the best
results. Prepare a piece of ground early in
the spring for a seed bed, then rake over
the surface once a week till June, the ob,iect
being to get as many weed seeds sprouted
and killed as possible, after which the Dan-
delion seed should be sown broadcast and
raked in very lightly. Then roll or tread
over the entire surface. The plants will
soon cover the ground and may be allowed
to take care of themselves till wanted the
following season.
Insect Enemies. While this method has
great advantages, there is also one serious
drawback, In consequence of which we
dare not risk growing our entire crop in this
way, and that Is the centipede or "thousand-
legged worm." They work their way into
the top of the fleshy roots, and eat out the
inside. In wet weather water settles in the
cavities producing decay.
The past season we lost qviite a large plat
in this way. They grew luxuriently, cover-
ed the ground completely, giving promise of
an exceptionally large yield, but they com-
menced dying off, and by fall there were
only a few scattering plants in the whole
piece. Some simple remedy that would de-
stroy this pest, while the plants are growing,
without injury to the crop, would be of
great value. New plants from spring-sown
seed are not as badly affected by the worms,
the roots being more solid enables them to
resist their attacks more effectually.
Where worms are not troublesome.a Dan-
delion bed may be kept for several years, as
the old roots when cut off send out numer-
ous sprouts forming clumps of ten to seven-
ty small plants from one root, but the labor
required to clean them is so great that it is
not very profitable. Where plants have
been kept for seed stock, the case is differ-
ent, for the roots not being cut, send out
hut few branches (usually three to five)
which form stools weighing when trimmed
ready for market one to four pounds each.
Gathering and Marketing. Some cut
off the roots just below the crown of plant
with a long, stiff-bladed knife, but where
grown on a large scale, this process is too
slow. We take a square shovel, ground
sharp, and commencing at the end of a row
shove it along under the plants cutting them
off about one-half inch below the surface.
I A crescent scuffle hoe works nicely for
cutting Spinach. J^d.]
If the weather is favorable, a gang of boys
follow with knife in hand, gathering up the
plants. They shake out the dirt and litter,
and cut off the roots close up to the leaves,
and throw the Dandelions into baskets, as
cleaned. When the weather is not favor-
able, the plants are gathered up and wheeled
in on to the barn floor where the cleaning
can be done in more comfortable quarters.
The boys receive a specified sum per bushel
for cleaning. The Dandelions are then
taken to tubs and washed, and placed upon
strips of lath fencing (laid flat over barrels,
boxes, etc.) to drain. After remaining in this
position over night they are weighed, allow-
ing twelve pounds to the bushel, when they
are ready for the market.
ISO
POPULAR GARDENING.
April,
HOW TO PLANT A PLACE.
(Pnntinned from pnqc 131.)
In trees both fruit and ornamental with
a branching head on a trunk, cut out the
small shoots clean and cut back the larger
ones intended for the frame work of the
tree, to within three or four buds of their
base. Each bud should then be able to
Fig. 46. Puddling the roots before planting.
make a good branch ; leave them all and
there would be not enough sap to develop
them into anything beyond weak twigs.
Older trees should be cut back more In
proportion than younger ones; those having
but few roots more than those having many.
To cut forest trees back to a mere pole
square at the top is bad practice, for the top
will not heal over and a decayed spot will
appear at the top, letting water into the
trunk and thus cause ultimate decay.
In Dwarf Pears to be grown as pyramids,
cut back the leader and the lowest main
branches one half, and all those between at
such a length as to cause a pyramidal form.
Shrubs should have the growth of the
preceding year cut back to from three to
six buds each and where they are very
numerous some may be cut entirely away.
As a rule less roots are lost in digging
shrubs in proportion to the top than with
trees. Prune Roses at planting by cutting
back the past season's growth from one half
to two thirds.
Grape Vines and other climbers cut to
within two buds from the ground.
Vegetable plants like Celery, Cabbage
and others as well as annual flowering
plants from a seed bed do better for having
the ends of the leaves clipped back one
third or more. Plants grown in pots in
which the roots are all preserved do not
specially need pruning.
33. Locate each tree and shrub by stake be-
fore the day of planting.
Directions for laying out were previously
given . The
~' stakes correctly
placed with the
lows in the orch-
- ~ ard straight in all
, du:ections, take
r' ^
the following
means to exactly
locate the tree
where its stake
stands. Make a
device as shown
in Fig. 41 at top,
consisting of a
board about
seven feet long
notched from one
side at the mid-
dle, and with an
Fig. 41. Locating trees pre-
viotta with stake. /See Di-
rection 33.
inch hole bored through the center near
each end. Lay down the board bringing
the notch to the stake, and thrust a peg
through each of the end holes into the soU.
Lift one end of the board and swing it
around as shown at the middle. Here the
hole is to be dug. When ready to receive
the tree, swing
back the board
to have the
pegs in the
holes as at first.
In planting
place the tree
into the notch
and than you
have it precise-
ly where the
stake stood as
shown in the
bottom of the
figure.
To plant
hedges, Rasp-
berries, etc., in
straight rows,
stretch a line
say a lath's
length from
the desired
row, as shown
in Figure 43.
the absence of a tap root this operation may
usually be aided by making a small, com-
pact mound of earth in the bottom of the
hole over which to spread the lower roots.
Fig. 43. Fig. 44. Fig. 45.
The course of successful tree planting thrmigh 5 years.
1 hen open the Tree well handled from nursery tx) planting. Head freely pruned, to balance root. Planted
trpTipli nnH na In good, deep, drained soil, at same depth It stood Innursery, the rootsspread outnaturally
^»ciiv.ii, a,uu iio and well compacted In fine moist earth. Land kept well tilled and fertile. Result. Strong
the trees are growth from the first. A straight tree the roots anchoring It well. No sprouts to mention,
hpino- Qof Ir. Little trouble from insects and diseases, for these attack weak growers first. Kapld
ueiug set, 10- growth and early maturity.
cate by hold-
ing the lath's ends to the line and to the
tree's center. The result will be a row as
straight as the line. For a second row, if
such is to be planted, also take the string as
a guide, rather than the first row.
34. Bight planting. (StepA) Make the open-
ing large enough to receive all roots with-
out bending.
The holes should be broad enough to
receive all the roots spread out naturally as
they grew, and deep enough to allow the
iim
Fig. 37. Heeling in Plants. See JVo. 29.
subject to stand at the depth it did in the
nursery. The outline of Pig. 43 shows a hole
of the right size; that of Fig. 47 one so small
that the roots are bent against its sides, and
with some protruding upward out of the
soil, and the tree stands several inches too
high, all in the worst possible shape.
85. {Step B) Ounrd against drying of the
roots, by puddlijig them.
Have a tub of water at the taking-up
place and douse the roots into this before
carrying to the place of planting. See Fig.
46. Plant on a damp, cloudy day if possible.
If a bundle of trees is carried some distance
from the heeling-in place, throw a damp
cloth over the roots.
36. {Step C.) Set the Subject to the same
depth as where it previously grew.
This is shown by Figs. 43 and 50; the oppo-
site course, a very common and bad one, by
Figs. 47 and 51. Planting too deeply is
equally bad.
Still a few things, like Pear and Cherry
budded on dwarf stock, should be planted so
as to have all parts below the bud com-
pletely covered. Budded Roses should be
similarly planted.
Some soft-wooded plants like Tomatoes,
Balsams, vines, etc., that throw out roots
readily from any parts, may, if they are tall,
be set deep without the slightest injury.
37. {StepB.) Spread out the roots naturally.
The right idea is shown in Figs. 43 and 50,
the wrong one in which the roots lay in
masses or are cramped in Figs. 47 and 53. In
38. {Step E. ) Carefully surround the sep-
arate roots on all sides with earth.
As the tree previously grew, such was the
condition of its roots in the earth. It is im-
possible to be at too much pains to secure
the same condition to them in the new loca-
tion. A first requisite is an abundance of
fine, mellow soil; if the planting is being
done in sward or by the roadside, suitable
soil should be carted from the garden or
elsewhere. Then don't trust to throwing
in the earth by shovelfuls, and that a smart
shake of the tree will properly distribute it,
for it will not. Put the fine soil carefully
over the matted and other roots, and then
with the fingers or with a pointed stick work
it under and around every part. Fig. 47 is a
good illustration of "shovel planting," in
which no pains were taken to separate the
roots, Fig. 43 of right planting in this re-
spect.
Use no manure against the roots, although
some that is old and fine may be scattered
over the earth before all has been returned
Fig. 42. Locating trees by line. See No. 33.
to the hole. A moderate top dressing of old
manurp is never out of order.
39. {Step F.) Firm the soil compactly.
No part of planting or seed sowing is of
higher importance. In nature we find the
soil laid so tightly against every part of the
roots, that should a strong man attempt to
pull up a main root of a small tree he would
be likely to fail. Imitate the natural condi-
tion as near as you can. The man in Fig. 54
is using a maul to accomplish this; it is the
right course, although the feet may answer
as well. The roots should be shielded by
some earth at the time.
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
151
Tight planting is the only safe course in
planting evergreen trees.
Set vegetable plants f lom a seed bed firmly
by the use of dibble, as shown in Fig. 53.
With seeds it is much the same. To sprout
they must first and continuously absorb
moisture from the earth, to cause them to
"f^<lK
Govern the depth of covering by the size
of the seed. The old rule of covering to
the depth of twice the seed's diameter will
seldom lead one astray.
43. iSoic in a temperature suited to the
wants nf the seed.
For those kinds classed as HarJy Annuals,
Hardy Biennials and
Hardy Perennials, a
temperature of the
soil of about 55° is
the most congenial,
while extremes of 30°
for a short time will
not harm the sprout-
ing seed or plantlet.
Half hardy kinds
will fjerminatebest in
a temperature of BOto
70" while tender kinds
will find above 70° the
most suitable. In no
ease can the extremes
be greater than 20°
above or below for
any length of time
without injury.
44. Provide mois-
if ^WWll ' '■ > tiirc to the seed.
.'■*W..''^m''\\W'' IJo tliis by firm-
•h 4-(V \ ilVi ' 'ing the soil (
Pig. 47.
Fig. 48.
The Cojtrse of Failure through five years
Fig. 49.
Tree unpruned, hence with too much top. The soil poor and unsuitable. Planted fn
a small hole, the roots cramped, and Ivlng In masses. The soil not properly firmed.
Land allowed to run to weeds. Results. Being top heavy the tree soon leans.
Hardly any growth and that stunted. Sprouts start up freely thus further robbing
the head of much needed sustenance. The weakness invites Insects and diseases.
In flveyearsthere Is DO satisfactory growth, the tree perhaps looJ£ing worse than
when it was planted, if It be not outrlghtly dead.
swell. This can be far more certainly ac-
complished if the seeds are imbedded in a
moderately compact soil that will not quickly
dry out, than in one that is loose.
40. Do not plant trees in a water puddle
or ^^'hcn the earth is wet.
Because moisture is necessary to root and
seed growth, do not fall into the grave error
of thinking that excessive wetness would
be yet better.
What roots and
seed require is not
direct continuous
wetness (which
really is injurious)
but moisture as
vapour and ob-
tained by the
mingling of air in
the soil. The plan
of pouring a large
quantity of water
into the tree hole fig, ^. Rightly pianttd, with
when it has been all the roots properly spread
, ,. .,, , ... out. SeeNo.m.
half filled with
earth, is not a good one except the sur-
rounding earth is quite dry, so that it will
quickly absorb the excess; in. such a case
to apply water moderately would be a
proper course. If the soil is at all moist it is
seldom best to use any water in planting.
41. On leaning the tree.
It is a good rule to lean trees slightly
in the direction of prevailing winds, the
action of which j
in time will bring 1
^^ji^y^'N 'a^atff^p them to a perpen-
0^MSlt\\ /)*^V^t:\ dicular position.
r 9.V ^<i iLi^ %' In sections where
tree-trunks are
liable to injury
from sun scald,
as throughout the
north-western
states, it is well to
lean the tree a
little to the south in order that the top may
shield the trunk from the sun's rays.
On Seed Sowing.
43. The soil shotild be made as fine as
possible where seeds are to be sown.
For sowing large quantities a wheel drill
should be used, otherwise to open drills or
hills with a hoe will answer.
Fig 51. A young plant set
not deep enough. See No. 36.
ing the soil or by
mulching the sur-
face with hay or a
board until the
sprout begins to
push through.
Fig. 55 (at right)
shows a gardener
treading over a line
of Peas or other garden seeds for compact-
ing the soil. Rolling the land is some-
times made to answer, but treading is better.
The advantage of firming is that the soil
thus holds its dampness better than if it
were loose, while the roots can absorb the
moisture required to support the evapora-
tion that goes on from the top of the tree
at all times.
45. Surround the home with afi,ne lawn.
In lawn sowing the margins along walks
and borders should first ,be protected by a
strip of turf, about one foot wide, to be
taken up in some grass spot, free of weeds.
Lift such'sod with a sharp spade, cutting it
not over \}4 inches thick and rolling up in
strips of about four feet long. To lay this
turf, the surface of the ground should be
slightly lowered and loosened with a rake
to make a bed for the grass roots. Join all
edges carefully, using a long-bladed knife
for trimming the ends squarely.
As the laying proceeds if some portions
of the turf happen to be a little thinner
than others, soil should be worked under-
neath such parts. The different pieces
should all be snugly pushed together as the
sodding goes on. It is well to carry the
line of sod out a trifle further than the edge
should be, and later trimming it back with
a sharp spade or edging knife. The sod
before beating down, should lie with its
surface a little higher than that of the sur-
rounding earth.
In general the foregoing rules will apply
to laying sod over entire plots as well as to
margins. In all cases after being properly
in place the turf should be well beaten down
with a flat wooden mallet or the back of the
spade. If the sod by any means has become
dry, it should be watered before the beating
down is accomplished.
Be at great pains to have the ground
where grass seed is to be sown, very even,
uniformly firm to prevent settling into bad
shape, and lastly the surface made fine with
a rake, to receive the seed. For spring sow-
ing we advocate fall plowing in order that
the soil may have perfectly settled by seed-
ing time. If the sowing must be done the
same season as the plowing then there
should at least intervene a soaking rain.
Sow not less than three bushels (four or five
bushels would be better) to the acre. To
ensure evenness divide the seed into two por-
tions, half to be sown by passing over the
land in one direction, the other half by
walking at right angles with the first sow-
ing. It is easy to guagethe width of sowing
by keeping an eye on the tracks made in the
firmly raked surface at the last trip across
the plats. The sowing should be done
when there is no wind stirring, immediately
after daylight being usually the best time
for this. Afterwards
the rake should be again
applied lightly and this
operation be followed
by a thorough rolling
of the plat.
The best time to so.v
a lawn is as early in the.
spring as the ground
will work up dry and Figsa. Howtousethe
fine. Sowing lawn seed ^"''''^- *« A'o. 39.
in September is also usually satisfactoi-y.
After the Planting.
Keep the surface over the roots cleanly
46.
tilled all season.
It is a rule that should be laid down for
all growths from the soil. You would not
e.xpect a good Corn crop from untilled land,
choked with weeds and grass. Neither must
trees, shrubs or other plants be expected to
thrive with slighted culture. For three
years at least treat all growths as well as
you would a Corn crop, and orchard trees
had hotter be so treated perpetually.
Even young trees, shrubs, etc., on the
lawn should have the soil tilled for some
years. By planting
in groups, as advised
under " Laying out
the Planting," it is
easy to treat the spot
between and just
about the trees,
shrubs, etc., as an
open border neatly
cut in the sward and
then kept cleanly
tilled. Single specL
mens may have a circle from two to five
feet across, they standing in the center, kept
similarly tilled.
All crops from seed, and all bedding and
garden plants should be kept scrupulously
clean of weeds. By beginning early in the
season, when the plants are small and ten-
der, and passing over the beds with light
tools every week or two during the season,
it is easier to keep a place clean than by
kilHng well-established weeds.
47. Better till your trees, etc., than to water
them.
This refers to trees in orchards, garden
crops, etc. By keeping the soil stirred to a
Fig. 45. Planted u-ith
roots all in a mass.
Fig, Si. Using thf mavl to Fig. 55. Tramp, Tramp,
firm the soil in planting. Tramp. Firming a seed-
See No. SS. drill. SeeNo.Sa.
depth of several inches, the stratum lower
dowTi will retain a remarkable degree of
moisture, even in the dryest weather. This
is because,first, the broken surface prevents
largely the escape of moisture upwards by
capillary attraction; second, a well-tilled
soil absorbs moisture from the air at night.
It must not be forgotten that wee-'s are
enormous absorbers of moisture; what they
take, the crop must go without.
152
POPULAR GARDENING.
April,
Fig. 57 shows this method, while the tree
in Fig. .58 is slightly protected by stones
placed around it.
.52. In prmiing remove huds nr smnU syiroiit-s-
not neederl, i-ather than irait tintil they
have developeil, find then eut them off.
Pruning by nibbing off superfluous buds
can be done at any time, and without the
$m
48. Oood tUlaeje is as good as miiJching.
The layer of loose surface soil may well be
termed a mulch. It preserves moisture near-
ly as well as a foreign mulch like straw,
sawdust, etc.; it better admits the air to the
roots; it encourages deeper root growth; it
is more convenient in a garden; and it does
not provide a congenial harbor or propaga-
ting place for injurious molds, insects,
and quadrupeds as a mulch will do.
49. In timeii of dronth water pro-
fusely if at all.
While as a rule it is true that if
better culture and less water were
given in American gardens, the re-
sults would be better, yet there are
instances where watering during
drouth is desirable. Some of these
instances are as follows: Trees and
shrubs growing in sod ; vines against
buildings; Strawberry beds; beds
closely occupied with flowers, Celery,
etc.
To water any of these properly,
the soil should be deeply punctured
with a bar of iron to admit the moist-
ure well down to the roots. Then
enough water should be applied to
thoroughly saturate the soil, and
this should suffice for weeks, perhaps
for the season. See figure .Mi.
Never indulge in the common prac-
tice of applying a driblet of water to
each tree or plant daily, only to cause
the surface of the soil to bake, with-
out ever giving enough to soak down
to the roots.
.50. Stir the soil each time after
being ivet from rain or rjtherwise.
This is to prevent baking of the
surface, which would cause loss of
moisture in consequence of the un-
broken capillary action between
lower stratum and surface. Mel-
lowing and pulverizing the surface checks | slightest injury to tree or shrub. The re-
"^K'y^ci-^'
■ ''■- \
't ' ■■ '
.
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ii^^
m
f f
l' TO ll
\\\
1 /
\u\
'kM\
1
y
M\f
r
hh '
■>
1 .
., (\ F
■^ss
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■ '/ ■ ■
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^;yg;,,,. .- ....
^rsi-)^-'^
Where the latter abound, however, the
bodies of trees should be further protected
against in jury by a wash consisting of white-
wash flavored with copperas or carbolic acid,
or smeared with a piece of fresh animals'
liver, or with blood, grease, etc.
Examine young fruit trees from time to
time for bark lice, and if such are found,
clean the affected limbs by scraping,
or wash them with a strong solution
of salsoda in water, one pound to the
gillon, or with some other strong
alkaline liquid, or paint them with
Imseed oil. Two or three times dur-
mg the growing season, look also
for borers. You may find indications
of their work on the body of tree near
the ground. Cut them out, or destroy
them with a piece of wire. As a pre-
\entive, which usually is much bet-
ter than a cure, the bodies near the
giound may be washed several times
a year with carbolized liquids; or
coal ashes may be heaped around
the tree bodies, or the latter sur-
rounded by mechanical obstructions,
like boxes, tarred paper, wire-screen,
etc.
Fig. 5!). Viiuiiu liudilnl H'isr,
a, filan: uf Jtuililiu{i ttu- iin-
provid rariity im llir ]yil(l
root, b growth from bud, c c,
rampant wild shoots.
Our Native Shrubs.
E. P. POWELL, ONEIDA CO., N. T.
We do not make enough of our
own native flowers, trees, and shrubs
for home adornment. I have learned
to make very great use of our wild
Plums and Cherries. They cannot
be surpassed for beauty either in
flower or fruit. If the robins would
let the fruit alone, it would be the
Fill. i;0, Kihiinrniirk Tl'iVd.
tthH'f lit Inuliliuii Ihr Kihitiirnoch
on the Willi WiUiiw, h /), iirou'th
frin liitil, (■ c, irihl shoots. Tliese
'as so itficn ailmeed to grow hill delight of the eye nearly all summer.
thi)ii.->ands of trees every year.
These engravlng.s show what kills many fine budded trees and
shrubs, namely; letting wild sprouts from below the bud grow, thus
crowding and in time killing the budded part. See No. 52.
tills. Clean and thorough cultivation is the
first choice in any event. If ever an annual
crop is grown between young growths, as is
permissible, and perhaps advisable in newly
planted orchards, etc., it should be one
which needs cultivation and hoeing, like
Beans, Corn, Potatoes, etc., but never a
grain or Clover crop.
51. Trees with well-developed roots properly
planted need no stakes.
If the root system is not perfect, so that
there is the least risk of displacement or
breaking by the winter's winds, the tree
*t'^^^^
^iJ*^-
Fig. 56. Preparitig to water a tree at the roots
by puncturing tlie soil with a bar. See No. 49.
should be tied to a stout stake, or held
in place by several galvanized wires, or
cords, fixed to a collar at a convenient height,
and the other ends fastened to stakes or pegs
driven into the ground at a proper distance
from the trees. When trees are set in the
tall it is a good precaution not only to stake
them firmly but also to heap up the soil
around the body of each to the hight of about
one toot. This will give yet firmer support,
and also prevent girdling by mice. The
mound must be leveled again in early spring.
moval of a large limb always injures the
tree's vitality. Be especially careful to pre-
serve a smooth, clean stem, by the prompt
removal of all suckers.
Fig. .59 represents a young Rose bush; Fig.
60 a weeping tree. Both were budded at o;
the wood growing from bud, h }>, alone is to
be left, while the suckers, c c, issuing from
the stem or root below o, should be ruth-
lessly removed at the earliest possible oppor-
tunity. Evergreens are to be cut back in
April or May, .just before the trees start to
grow, in order to preserve the shape and
thicken the growth.
53. Keep a record of all trees and shrubs
planted.
This is especially necessary with fruits.
Labels may be lost, and if no record is kept,
loss and confusion of names will be the sure
result. A nameless fruit does not taste half
as good, or afford halt as much enjoyment,
as one does of which we know the exact
name, and all particulars. The most con-
venient method is to make a map or chart
of orchard, fruit garden and lawn, large
enough to show every tree, shrub and row
of small fruits, with the name f)f each writ-
ten out in full. This map should be on
stiff' paper, or pasted on paste board, and if
neatly executed may be framed and hung in
the sitting room. At the same time the
labels, preferably of zinc, moistened and
written on with soft pencil, should be re-
newed or replaced whenever needed, for the
grower's and visitor's convenience in recog-
nizing the variety.
.54. Guard against rabbits, mice and in-
sects.
Where the young growths are kept clean
by thorough tillage, no tufts of grass, no
weedy fences, no rubbish of any sort being
allowed near them, there will be no danger
from mice and very little from rabbits.
and
The variations in the Cherry family
are many, and it is hard to choose
between them. I advise any one who
is planting lawns^o get a large supply
grow most of them as bushes. This
can be done by cutting off the main trunk
at the ground and allowing the roots to
send up several in place of one. Cut them
back year by year at the tops. Many of our
larger trees can in this way be grown as
bushes. Among others the Tulip tree, the
Linden, the Magnolias, the Catalpas and
Beeches. I should like to find something
finer than a Catalpa trained after this
manner. Such shrubs or bushes will gen-
erally blossom profusely, while the leafage
is enlarged.
The Coruus family is also extremely fine ;
perhaps Cornus Florida surpassing all other
native shrubs where it thrives. It is not quite
as hardy as it might be, but 1 get it along
with some care in Central New York. The
Fig. 57. Staking ami Fig. aS. Steadying a
mouneling up a young yimng tree with stones,
tree for winter.
red-barked Cornus is truly superb for win-
ter, turning to a fiery crimson in November,
and back to green in April. If planted in a
moist soil it spreads with much regularity
by underground shoots, rather than roots,
until it covers a rod square, or more if you
will let it. It is deliciously comfortable in
cold weather. Holmes tells us of the old
lady who got warm over a cold register; but
I Sgo.
POPULAR GARDENING.
15:
you really get considerable summer into
your soul by looking down in January upon
a group of t'ornus and Barberries. If you
have them adjacent to evergreens, as you
should, they are all the liner: and on de-
cent winter days you will tind yourself
under the Hemlocks warming yourself by
closer approach to the tlery bushes. When
spring comes, the red color vanishes as the
leaves develop new coloring matter, and all
the world goes a-greening. Our planting of
lawns should always consider the whole
year, and they should especially be adapted
to relieve the monotonous seasons.
Mahonia. or American Holly bush, is
another of the really wonderful individuals
ill our floral family. It is, in fact, a fair
candidate for prominence as a natural
flower. In May it gives you great balls of
gold, as large as a croquet ball, all over a
low, spreading, superbly-polished green
bush. Then the young
growth follows, de-
lightfully pink and
red. After that, the
bush is glorious with
its green through
autum and winter.
Ah: but it is a won-
derful piece of Na-
ture's art. It should
be grown on every
lawn in the United
States; only in winter.
be covered from sun.
I have referred to
the Barberry. There
are many varieties,
but the best is the
English sort that has
run wild in our wood-
and has become so
naturalized that we
may speak of it as a
native. This grows
to a height of twelve
feet in dense bushy
form, and in May is
overloaded with sweet
stems of yellow flow-
ers that bring thousands of bees to feast
and gather honey. The odor is very rich,
and a few do not like it. The berry is at
its best in October, and remains a brilliant
crimson all winter, I could not get on
without my Barberries, and like them
in many parts ot my grounds. When the
snow makes a wilderness, this shrub holds
out that it is still comfortable weather.
The fruit is more valuable than we have
generally supposed.
Two of our very finest natives are Stuartia
pentagynia and E.xochorda grandiflora.
The former I find hard to hold, and the
latter is difficult to propagate. The result
is both are rare. But when you have seen
an Exochorda in bloom you will never rest
content until you get one. Its flower is a
clear lace-like white ; and the whole bush
is a solid bouquet. I never saw anyone pass
near the shrub in bloom without exclama-
tions of admiration. Stuartia is as fine.
To my taste a Hazel bush in November is
perfection. All at once, after blooming and
fruiting is over, the White Hazel clothes
itself from head to foot in a mass of lacini-
ated yellow florescence. It is still fine when
the early snows gather over it. At the very
other end of the season is the Moonwood,
also bearing a yellow flower: and a lovely
thing it is.
The term Moonwood is sometimes given
to a very different bush, the Hopple or
Witch Hopple. This I have never been
able to grow on my lawns, but in cool damp
wooded hill-s des it is glorious. The flowers
resemble tho.se of Hydrangea Thomas Hogg,
if seen at a little distance. Whoever gets
this located to suit it will have a beauty.
The Euonymus or Wahoo is one of the
least conspicuous of all bushes in flower.
Its many, small chocolate-colored flowers
are, however, sweet and pretty to one who
studies them. The value of this shrub is
mainly for the superb show made by the
seeds which burst open their caly.x covering
in October, and hang like a bundle of flowers
all through the late autum weeks. They
are generally in prime condition about
Thanksgiving,
These are only a few of the splendid
treasures offered by our American woods.
In every locality you will find many native
sorts that will adorn a lawn. What we
need is to cultivate a love for fiowers and
foliage and not for novelty. Our growers
have been so carried away with the possi-
bility of importing something new and
j startling each year that they have educated
I a false public taste. We are greedy for the
From our standpoint we consider the
walks rather too conspicuous, but this defect,
if such it be, is largely counterbalanced by
the strong touches of natural gardening.
The size of the whole parterre is about 300
by iOO feet.
Seeds and Seed Growing,
America is fortunate in the po.ssession of
respectable and honorable seed houses.
There are many of them, and so few of the
opposite class that it is the easiest thing in
the world to get good and reliable garden
and flower seeds. If our friends will only
deal with seedsmen of repute directly, and
let the seeds sold on commission in country
stores alone, they will run very little risk
of not getting seeds that will grow. Our
experience with advertising seedsmen is that
seeds bought of them directly seldom fail
to come up all right if properly treated.
Sometimes only we
have to find just a
little fault that the
various strains and
varieties of some of
the old standard sorts
are not kept quite as
pure and separate as
they might, and also
that the seedsmen are
in a bad habit of lead-
ing us to expect too
great things of their
novelties.
In regard to the
handling of good seed ,
after once having ob-
tained it. Prof, L, H,
Bailey of Cornell Uni-
versity gives some ex-
cellent advise in a re-
cent issue of Garden
and Forest, from
which we quote:
There are few good
sowers of seed. To
buy seeds and to
cover them with
earth comprise the
latest thing from China or the Cape, while a sum of practice with many people, To.sow
finer is within a mile of us in its natural well is the first operation to acquire in
ORNAMENTAL PLANTING AT THE PALM GARDENS AT FRANKFURT-ON-THE-MAINE.
habitat. I know nothing finer than our
wild hill-sides covered vrith Sumac, Elder,
and Rubus: or more wonderful than the
mountains of Connecticut and Pennsylva-
nia covered with Laurel, Azalea, Rhododen-
drons, and farther north those with Bitter
Sweet , and Cherries, My object is not to give
an exhaustive list but to draw attention to
our natural neglect of our native beauties.
Floral Parterre in the Palm Gardens
at Frankfort-on-the-Maine
The accompanying engraving conveys an
idea of the study which German gardeners
give to elaborate embellishment. It repre-
sents plan of the Floral Parterre in the
Palm gardens at Frankfort-on-the-Maine,
an institution which good authorities in
Germany are pleased to call a High School
I of the Art of Gardening, The plan of the
i floral part was designed by Garden Director
Heinrich Siesmayer,
The three plats occupied with fountains
are lavishly adorned with bedding plants in
arabesque style, and this could not do other-
wise than give a fine effect. We feel like
complimenting the designer for having
known just where to stop. To have carried
the same style of adornment to the outlying
plats would have resulted in spoiling all.
The engraving shows how these marginal
plats were treated, to offset the artificial
style of the flower beds by conformity to
nature's ways in their surroundings. Here
we have only lawn and irregular groups of
trees and shrubs, and indeed fine examples
of such arrangement.
gardening; propagation by cuttings is the
second. Two or three general rules are
fully as important as many of the ex-
plicit instructions; (I) Do not be in a
hurry. In all my teachings how to sow it
is necessary to make this important point.
It means taking an abundance of time to
prepare the soil and to provide proper con-
ditions. Ten seeds well sown are more
valuable than fifty half sown, and as a rule,
the more valuable the plants to be grown
the more imperative is this rule, (2) Avoid
shortcuts, which are wholly artificial. In
all the long catalogues of compounds de-
vised to hasten germination. I do not know
one which is worth its cost or trouble. It is
always legitimate to hasten germination,
but it must be done by perfecting natural
or normal conditions. (:S) In cases of doubt
as to the proper method of handling rare or
choice seeds, sow in installments, at inter-
vals. This means experiment. With prac-
tice comes an almost intuitive faculty to
determine at once what are the proper
methods of dealing with seeds with which
we had never had experience. But until
this faculty comes, safety demand caution.
And some people never acquire the faculty.
Seed-sowing comprises three distinct sub-
jects: (1) Selection of seed: (3) treatment of
the seed preparatory to sowing, (.3i the sow-
ing itself. The commonest cause of failure
In seed-sowing is to much moisture. This
is particularly true in the case of old and
weak seeds. Seeds from afar, or which I
have reason to suppose possess low vitality,
are never watered directly.
154
POPULAR GARDENING.
April,
Window Plants.
When dainty Spring with awakening wand
Unchains tlie prisoned flowers.
And trips about witli glances fond
To And each tender bud and frond,
The house-plants sigh with longing eye.
To gather 'neath the open sky
And feel the freshening showers.
How eageiiy they drink the light !—
While others froUc full In sight.—
They struggle for withheld delight.
And press the pane with might and main,
■ Sweet Freedom's boundless cup to drain.
Impatient at delay.
—Good Housekeeping.
The First Snowdrop.
But when the modest Snowdrop lifts its head
Upon the Grass or in the garden bed,
Hope dawns— we fancy spring Is near
That in the copse the blackbird's note we hear.
As white and cold in winter-time it blows
(And lacks the fragrance of the summer Rose),
From arched and slender stalk the pure brave flower
O'er Nature's wreck droops down— a living power.
The crystal snow is pure and knows no strife.
The Snowdrop breathes of spring and teaming life.
Fears not, though frail, with wintry storms to cope.
Speaks to the heart of cheerful trust and hope.
— S. Lydia Ewbank.
Ring, happy bells of Easter time!
The world is glad to hear your chime.
Across wide fields of melting snow
The winds of summer softly blow.
And birds and streams repeat the chime
Of Easter time.
Youth's Companion.
EoU the lawn early.
Air the hot-bed plentifully.
Easter will bring sunshine and flowers.
Plant something for ornament. It pays.
Of Boses you should have a dozen, by all means.
The first toad we come across shall go to our
hot-bed.
The rake on beds occupied with bulbs, before
the plants appear.
Arbor Day is a day of blessing; all judicious
planting is a blessing.
Wire netting makes an excellent support for
Pea vines and Lima Beans.
Conple snbioiling with surface stirring, and
you may laugh at drought.
Horticnltore more than any other art may
combine business with pleasure.
A shady corner, all by themselves, and with a
moist soil, is what the Pansies lilie.
The English sparrow, in some localities, in-
]iu-es Currant buds more than the growers like.
They are Good Plants. There is every sign
that Pa^onies are rapidly increasing in popularity.
No worms wanted in pots, except when con-
verted into plantfood by soaking the soil with
lime water.
Lncretia Dewberry. The way to make it
tiseful, and not a nuisance, is by staking and
firmly tying.
Would you have an abundance of Sweet Peas
next summer? Then wait no longer, but plant
the seed right away.
Early and often is a good maxim for sowing
Peas, Radishes and the like. We want our "sass"
early, and we want it right along.
Preparing for more— yet we have already
over a hundred varieties of Strawberries on our
grounds ready to bear this season.
The Single-flowered Chrysanthemum (Nogiku)
is prized by Japanese horticulturists for its very
simplicity, and usually planted at the foot of
rocks, intermingled with Grasses, to give the
landscape design a naturalistic air.
Chisel as a Pruning Tool. For cutting off
limbs up to the size of two inches, I have never
used any tools as good as a two-inch paring chisei
and a mallet. The limbs can be cut much quicker
than with a saw, and it leaves the wound
smoother. The chisel should he kept as sharp as
possible.— E. ir. Dtinhar, Mc.
Not the Place for a Stone Honnment- A pile
of small stones put around the foot of fruit trees
is very far from being a benefit to the trees. The
roots are much better off reasonably deep in the
soil than when coaxed up to the surface by the
moisture which the stone mulch provides.
Exposure of the roots to frost, and injury to the
tree will invariably result therefrom.
A Freak. Argynnis sends us a sketch of
flower truss of a white Geranium. There are a
number of flower stalks with secondary trusses
growing on her plant. It is hardly a rare occur-
rence that one or more secondary trusses spring
from a primary truss, and many of our readers
have undoubtedly seen Geraniums with flower
stalks such as shown in engra\ing on next page.
How Crops Grow. A revised edition of this
most excellent treatise on the chemical compo-
sition, structure and life of the plant, by Samuel
W. Johnson, M. A., has just been published by
the Orange Judd Co., of New York City. It is a
work calculated to assist those who desire to be-
come more intimately acquainted with the mys-
teries of agricultural chemistry. 416 pages.
Price $2.00.
Frosted Grape Vines. Grape vines frequently
have to run the gauntlet of a late freeze. If badly
injured, the right way to treat them is to cut
them back to the first or second bud. This will
throw all the strength of the roots into the new
wood for next year's bearing. It is hopeful,
however, that such a casuality will be spared us
this year. We are not any too sure of a bounte-
ous crop of fruit, otherwise, and we could ill
afford to lose our Grapes.
Copper Labels. A new style of label, and ap-
parently a very serviceable one, is made of pre-
pared copper cut to suitable form, with attach-
ment of same material, all in one piece. The
name is written or indented on the label easily,
legibly and ineffaceably with a lead pencil or
other pointed instrument, holding the label on
the flat surface of an ordinary pocket book.
These labels are sold by Johnson & Stokes, Phila-
delphia, and perhaps others, at 31.50 per gross.
Fruit Industry of Califomia. The magnitude
of California's fruit and Nut products may be
seen by the following figures, which represent
the quantities produced in 1889, viz : Raisins,
900,000 boxes, 18,000,000 lbs.; Raisins, sacks, 1,000,-
000 lbs.; Dried Grapes, sacks, 2,000,000 lbs.; Prunes,
French, 15,000,000 lbs.; Prunes, all others, 300,000
lbs.; Peaches, unpeeled, 2,500,000 lbs.; Peaches,
peeled, 2,000,000 lbs.; Peaches, sun-dried, .500,000
lbs.; Apricots, 200,000 lbs.; Apples, evaporated
400,000 lbs ; Apples, sun-dried, 100,000 lbs.; Necta-
rines, 200,000 lbs.; Plums, pitted, 200,000 lbs.; Figs,
black and white, 100,000 lbs.; Pears, 50,000 lbs.;
Almonds, 500,000 lbs.; Walnuts, 1,.500,000 lbs.;
Honey, 2,200.000 lbs.
Potash for Fruits. Plenty of potash makes
firm and sweet fruit. That is why we recom-
mend the liberal use of wood ashes, and of Ger-
man potash salts in orchards, vineyards and small
fruit patches. Our fertilizer manufacturers also
recognize the usefulness of potash for such pur-
pose. The special *' fruit and \"ine manure " made
by a leading firm, for instance, is guaranteed to
contain 10 per cent of potash, and in reality
usually analyses still higher, or nearly as high as
an average sample of kainit; whde for special
manure for Potatoes, a crop which also loves
potash, six per cent or very little more is consid-
ered fully sufficient. In short, there is very little
danger of using too much potash for fruit crops.
The Bural New Yorker has been sold to Messrs.
Lawson Valentine and E. H. Libby. We know
that Mr. E. S. Carman whose genius has pushed
(he Rural to the front rank, and made it one of
the most successful, popular and influential agri-
cultural periodicals ever published, was anxious
to be relieved of the arduous duties of its busi-
ness management, and we congratulate him on
baring secured the object of his wish, but we
must also express our satisfaction on learning
that Mr. Carman is to retain editorial control of
the paper, and will be assisted, as heretofore, by
Mr. H. W. CoUingwood. While the editorial de-
partment is thus taken care of, and the active
business management in good (Mr. Libby 's) hands,
the continued success and prosperity of the Rural
is put beyond doubt.
Different Conditions— Different Treatment,
The management that plants require when grow-
ing in greenhouse is rarely practicable or possible
in a living room; but a treatment varying from
that in certain points may enable the amateur
to grow many plants not usually cultivated in
living rooms. As an illustration the advice to
use small pots causes as much or more harm to
the amateur as does his potting in sizes much too
large. In a high living-room temperature small
pots should not be used; even transplanted seed-
lings, if to be potted at all, should have at least
four-inch pots at first. There are amateurs who
have great success with Gloxinias, grown in six-
inch pots as soon as the bulbs have attained the
size of a Hazel nut, who could scarcely make
them live in four-inch pots.— H. C. G., Milicauhee.
Henderson's Handbook of Plants. A copy of
the last work from the pen of our departed
friend, Mr. Peter Henderson, has been handed to
us. Although sent out as a new edition of the
" Handbook of Plants " published in 1881, it
might properly be considered an entirely new
and independent work. It gives an account of
all plants under their botanical as well as their
common and local names; is profusely illus-
trated, and enlarged to .528 pages. In a single
volume, and costing S4; it is to Americans what
Gardeners' Dictionary with its eight volumes,
price ¥2.5,00, is to England. In a work of such
merit, however, we are sorry to see an illustra-
tion of the lower-catalogue order, one which
might properly be submitted to the committee
of the Society of American Florists on exagger-
ated cuts. We refer to the Watermelon cut on
plate 492. This is a blemish, but fortunately the
only one we have found in the volume.
Ancient Vegetable Bemedies. An Egyptian
Paprus in the Berlin Museum enumerates fifteen
vegetable remedies, and another mentions over
fifty used by the doctors of antiquity. Mineral
remedies were also used largely; the vegetable
list not only includes herbs, but fruits, and even
chips and sawdust of special trees. Incantation
seems to have been practiced as a help to make
the medicine work; but the physician did not
rely on mummery as much as has been supposed.
Ebers, the Egyptologist and novelist, says that
physicians of the sixteenth centurj', B. C, could
and did, carefullj- write complex recipes. Some
of their recipes are as good as the best we get
now. Castor oil was in common use, as well as
Senna; and they were understood and used as
now. The use of outlandish and ridiculous pre-
scriptions has been common also in all ages. In
New England sheep-droppings were given for
measles as late as the middle of our century. —
E. P. Powell.
A Paradisic Spot. The State of Georgia gave,
as a reward for his services in the Revolution, to
Nathaniel Green a portion of an island off the
coast and near the Florida line. Here the General
resided and laid out a remarkable garden famous
for its tropical fruits and flowers. Probably
North America holds no more beautiful spot than
this estate of Dungeness. The garden alone com-
prised twelve acres enclosed by a wall of Coquina,
and wholly tropical in its character. On the ter-
race before the house, grew only Sago Palms and
Crape Myrtle. Below this was a terrace of Olives.
Roses abounded everywhere. The fields about
were devoted to Sea Island Cotton and Sugar
Cane. Bear, deer, wild turkeys and water fowl
abounded as game near by. The grandest feat-
ure of the island is, however, said to be its Live
Oaks. This comes the nearest to being the Eden
of America of any spot we know. But there are
thousands of places in our states north and south
where we can create paradises.— £. P. PoweU.
Substitutes for the Potato Wanted, It is hardly
possible to get at any accurate estimate of the
relation of the common Potato to human life and
comfort in the temperate zone. It is the vegeta-
ble above all others upon which the millions
depend. It is the staple food of the poor. High
prices for Potatoes means half food for the mil-
lions of people. There is, however, a lack of
foresight in allowing this to become a fixed and
settled dependence. The (Colorado beetle and
the Potato rot have shown us that our dei>end-
ence is very unsafe. Now a new enemy attacks
this esculent— a parasitic worm; and in some
sections, a second enemy in the form of a fly.
The use of Paris green to destroy the beetle is
working some chemical changes in standard var-
ieties that render them semi-poisonous. The in-
troduction of new varieties of esculents is always
to be hailed with enthusiasm. It is a short-sighted
policy on the farm to be dependent on any one
or more articles for food or market. The vast
increase in the varieties of fruit point the way to
a larger area of fruit culture, and an increased
use of fruit for food.— E. P. PoweU.
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
155
Confasion in Plant Names. Tlioro aiv a niim-
bei- of ivt'orms that the Society of American
I'lorists sliimld tnke in band at their next annual
meol InfT. Hvery eatiilogwe-making: florist should
lie i-equiivil to ^ive the correct botanical names
of all plants, new ov old, common or iiirc, what-
ever the common name. Take the Moon-Hower,
for instance. There is only one true Moon-flower,
Iponica Hona-no.\, as described by Gray. What
Mamcco\ild be more appropriate for this jfrand
plant than the specific name it bears? 1. nocti-
llora, I noctiphyton, I.irrandiflora.or I.Me.xicana,
none of them can chiim to be as fitting. The
tulienms-rooted Ipomea palraata is often called
I. Me.xicana, whereas I think that is the name
of the plant sold by some firms as the original
Moon-Hower. a tine vine in every way, but it
neither blooms the first year from seed nor grows
from cuttings, while the true Moon-flower does
both. The latter plant is in three varieties,
white-seeded, black seeded and cross-bred, the
first-named lieing the earlicj^t and best bloomer.
It is not right to offer Rain-bow plants, Sun-set
plants, and many othei-s unknown to most people,
without giving something more definite than a
local common name. Flower lovers may either
duiilicate a plant already in their collections, or
else they may find themselves the happy posses-
sors of an undesirable weed. The correct botan-
ical name might give us all a clue.— Poey W.
A Fine New Kose. About the year ISfi.'j Mr.
Robert Fortune brought from Japan the Polyan-
tha Remontant Rose (Rosa polyantha), a species
distinguished from all others by its branching
clusters (or panicles) of blooms. Coupled with its
e.xtremely free-fiowering habit, the flowers were
highly scented and the plants were found to be
better suited for summer bedding, than any
other class of strictly perpetual bloomers. A
tjed of this section of Roses is quite certain
under ordinary culture, to be a mass of bloom
during the entire season. A new Japanese of
so much value at once attracted the attention of
expert Rose growers and hybridizers, with the
result, that now our best of Polyanthas embrace
many varieties, some of which are about hardy
in the north, as is also the parent. One of the
more recent products is the newClothilde Soupert,
a result of hybridizing the Tea Rose Mme. Dama-
zin with the Polyantha Mignonette, at the hands
of that clever French Rosarlan Mr. Soupert.
Recently we rceived a fine cluster of this new
variety from Mr. J. C. Vaughan, Florist, Chicago,
and were well pleased with its appearance.
The cluster before us has four full-blown (or
nearly so) Roses and nine buds, all upon one
main branch. Still the branchlets are less
crowded than with most Polyanthas, being
quite evenly dispersed over the strong-grow-
ing head. The color of the flowers is a pearly
white suffused with delicate rose towards the
center, although in this there is some vari-
ability. The fragrance is delicate. This new
Kose will be planted on the Popular Garden-
ing grounds the coming season.
Baising Plants from Seed. A great many fail-
ures in raising plants from seed annually arise
from the inexperience of the planters, especially
with the small and delicate flower seeds. For all
kinds of seeds were transplanting is advisable, I
practice the following plan with almost invari-
ably good results, and with a minimum of care;
a simple method for everybody: Make a frame
of six inch boards, three feet wide, and asking
as desired. Next make some sash frames out of
one by two-inch lumber; three feet in length one
way, to match the first frame, and then three
feet or so the other way. Tack on to these last
frames good, stout cotton sheeting. Prepare a
rich, mellow piece of ground, thoroughly spaded
and well raked, in a sunny place, and set the main
frame on it. If the earth in the seed bed is nat-
urally cloggy and heavy, before sowing seed,
temper it well with sand if possible. Now sow
your seed in rows properly labeled, or broadcast,
as you prefer, being particularly careful not to
cover too deeply with earth. Fine seeds need no
covering. A little fine earth, rubbed through a
sieve, just enough to hide the seeds, answers for
the coarser seeds. Next take a smooth piece of
board, and laying it on yoursowing, press it down
firmly. Nowsprinkle the whole with your water-
ing iiot moderately, and put on the cloth
frames. If the weather is warm and dry, water
again gently each evening, keeping the cover on
all the time except when watering, and soon you
will have a fine show of plants. When seeds of
different kinds are to be found in the same
main frame, care should be taken to sow those
which germinate quickly, at one end of the
frame; and when up you can give them air from
time to time by raising the frame a little (best at
night) without interfering with the sprouting of
the other secils, which take a longer time to
ccinic up.— 7). A. FMcher, Iowa.
The Abtttilon. I have had nothing finer among
my house plants this winter than the Abutilon,
of which I have three sorts, one with variegated
foliage and double yellow blossom, very hand-
some (Thomps<mi 1 think); one with large, dark
red flower, of which do not know the name, and
the third, which taking all things into account, is
most lovely of all, of dwarf habit with blossom
of reddish orange color, different from anything
I have seen elsewhere. For persistency of bloom
it cannot be beaten, and I have never seen its
e(iual. I got the plant originally from an eastern
florist among other plants, and it was labelled
Dr. Spinner, but I have never been able to find
that name among Abutilons, either in his cata-
logue or any other florist's (it was sent me as an
extra), and I have always been looking for it, as
every one who sees it wants one. I have given
A COMMOM FREAK: See opposite page.
cuttings to a great' many people ^during the six
or seven years that I have had it. I have never
seen such a free bloomer in any house-plant. A
lady visiting me one winter counted the blossoms
on my plant about 18 inches high, and there were
80 blossoms. To-day as I write there are on the
plant of about the same size 55, and I have been
taking blossoms from it almost every day all
winter. I wonder if Dr. Spinner has found its
way into the plant collections of others of your
readers. I keep my Abutilons for winter bloom
entirely, as there are plenty of flowers during
summer, and to that end keep cutting off just
the ends of all branches as often as they make a
growth of a few inches, from the time that I put
them out of their jars into the ground, as I do by
the middle of May in this climate, until I repot
before the first frost in the fall. They are quite
free from insects, only occasionally the green
fly makes its appearance, but soon disappears
under a few sprinklings of weak soap suds with
kerosene— say a half cupful of kerosene to a pail-
ful of water. 1 use that for all plants infested
with green fly, and And it does not harm any, and
is effectual.— Miriam Parker, Minn.
New York Floral Notes.
Since Lent began there has been a decided
change in the flower trade, at least among the
florists holding the fashionable trade, as large
entertainments are now over, and most social
events are of a simple order, calling for compar-
atively few flowers. The last few weeks before
Lent began, business was really good; in fact,
taken all through, there is no doubt that more
work has been done than was at first anticipated.
It cannot be called a poor winter for the trade,
in spite of unfavorable weather, which affects
the flower trade more than outsiders imagine.
There was one very notable wedding in Feb-
ruary, which called for very novel^effects in dec-
oration, both house and church being elaborately
arranged The ceremony took, place in the
Chiu'ch of the Heavenly Rest, which is very deep,
but comjiaratively narrow. All the way up the
centei- aisle were two rows of tall Palms, a row
on cither side, the leaves meeting over head, so
as to form an arch of green. The chancel was
arranged with a backing of Palms and flowering
plants. In the house the flowers were used very
lavishly. A great feature was the ball-room, a
very large apartment. Walls and ceiling were
covered entirely with Hemlock, so that it showed
nothing but a mass of green. Suspended from
the ceiling were nine wedding bells made of
flowers; one of unusual size in the middle, and
eight smaller ones surrounding it in the form of
a long oval. Palms stood about to break the mo-
notony, and on the walls were a number of large
plaques, made for the most part of Ivy leaves
with flowers arranged gracefully over them.
Palmetto leaves. Smilax and other greens were
disposed of further about the walls.." A great
man.y Lilies were used, and also a quantity of
Orchids. In another room was a pretty foun-
tain, with a mass of Callas and other plants
around the circular basin. A handsome mantel
had above it a large plaque of Ivy leaves, and on
it an interlaced floral monogram, "S. H " The
mantel was further decorated with Palms; the
flre-place being filled with Palms and flowers.
A beautiful group of Palms, Azaleas, .ind other
flowei-ing plants stood to one side of the stairs;
in the lower hall; the broad balustrade was
draped with flowers and foliage The decora-
tors were given carte-blanche throughout, and
the result was very fine, being only equaled by
the white-and-gold decorations at Miss Roose-
velt's wedding some time ago. These two deco-
rations were by the same firm.
February has seen two Orchid shows. The
first was at the United States Nurseries. Pitcher
& Manda throwing open their place to flower
lovers, as before. They had a fine lot of Orchids
in bloom, especially of Cypripediums.
Siebrecht & Wadley held their annual Orchid
show in the Eden Musee; they always make a suc-
cess of it, and it always attracts a large audience.
Good and successful flower shows are not very
frequent in New York— more's the pity -and
this annual Orchid show deserves all the more
commendation on this score.
Orchids certainly do not take the place of any
one flower— that is to say, they are not likely to
push any other one flower out of sight, but that
they have certainly a place of their own is fully
evident. They do not bring abnormally large
prices, except in the newspapers, as in the ease
of one famousentertainment, which an esteemed
contemporary described as being lavishly de-
corated with Orchid blooms which cost $100 a
spray. But there must be a certain amount of
money in them, or they would not be grown as
they are— no one in the business is going to raise
Orchid flowers purely for love. For general util-
ity Orchids, Cypripediums appear to take the
lead, while for fine and showy effects Cattleyas
will always be a favorite, especially in table dec-
oration. Calanthes are liked, for they are not
only pretty and graceful, but they last so well.
Phalienopsis make some of the finest bridal
bouquets, while Oncideums, Odontoglossums,
Ctelogynes, etc., are used in general work. Or-
chids are not often used without any othei flower,
except in such cases as baskets or table decora-
tion, when Ferns only are used with them.
Corsage bouquets, as we are often told, are
rather out of date, especially in the day time,
but the spring girl still has a habit of tucking a
bunch of Violets or a few Jonquils into her
jacket, though more pretentious bunches would
not be allowed. A great many women carry a
little posy in the hand when going to the theatre,
instead of wearing 'the flowers. Men's button-
hole bunches are still quite large, several white
Carnations or Paper-white Narcissus, made into
a neat round bunch, without foliage, being
liked. A roimd bunch of Violets, about the size
of a fifty cent piece, is also much worn.
This has been a very quiet winter, as far as
no\elties are concerned; there has been nothing
very remarkable in any way. There is no great
difference in the styles of baskets; the round
fish baskets are still used a great deal, and also
the tall flaring Marie Antoinette shapes. Many
exceptionally pretty shapes are of Rushes, which
are handsome and admired when filled solely
with large Roses.
Emixy LotnsE Taplin.
156
POPULAR GARDENING.
April,
PRoH
THE
SOCIETIES
TO aE>rn)EvrKMovm«
What Chemistry Teaches.
1 1 reminds you that common
honesty pays; that what you
take from the soil must be
returned, or something will
auflfer.— 3/f). Hort. Soc.
Dwarf Juneberiy The
Juneberry takes oare of it-
self and never fails to yield a full erop. The
fruit is good for more purposes than food for
birds— they make good pies when Lemon juice
is added. —Pro/. B. Oale.
The Orchard Site. Select some elevated and
naturally well-drained location. Avoid barren
hill-sides. Any good Corn land will answer. If
not naturally well-drained, tile to the depth of at
least four feet. A northern slope is preferable
to a southern.- J. V. Cotta.
The Tamariz, Tamarix Amurensis is a shrub
well adapted to a very dry soil. It is extensively
planted in east Euro])e on railroad embankments
to hold the earth; it is propagated from cuttings,
cut in the fall and put in callousing pit, the same
as Grapes.— Pro/. BiKld before the Imva HoH.Soc.
No. Illinois Fruit Men. The following officers
were elected iit the recent meeting of the
Northern Illinois Horticultural Society: Presi-
dent, A. Bryan^, Princetown; 1st Vice-President,
A. Dunning, Dunning ; Secretary, E. W. Graves,
Sandwich ; Treasurer, I. Woodward, Marengo.
E. W. Graves, Sec'y.
Protecting Birds. We want all species of birds
that do little or no harm to crops and destroy
injurious insects, entirely exempt from slaugh-
ter by any one at any season of the year. Let
us punish with fine and imprisonment any one
who kills certain birds, and let us join and see
that the law is observed.— Pro/. Farnsky nf Ky.
Hint. iS'oc.
Fruit Growers' Unions Needed. Good fruit
will always sell, and we have none too much of
it, but there should be a responsible head, to
whom dealers all through the state could send
and order what they wanted without fear of being
disappointed in ijuality. It was said that many
places last year could not get all the fruit they
wanted, and would be glad to send in orders if
they knew to whom to send —South Haven (Mich)
Pomologieal Society.
Feach Culture. To make a success, one should
select elevated sites, and warm sandy soils, or
localities near large bodies of water. In most
situtions a Peach orchard should be well culti-
vated. Keep down all weeds and grass, in order
to repel the borer, so destructive to Peach trees
Wash the trunk of the tree with strong suds
made of soap and carbolic acid, and scatter wood
or coal ashes around the roots of the tree. — F. R.
Palmer, Ohio Hort. Soc.
Uanuring on the Installment Flan. Crops
should be fed much as people are fed. We do
not want to take food enough to-day for a whole
week; we eat in instalments. So with the feed
ing of plants. It is well to fertilize by using a
portion at the starting of the crops, and then to
apply some more later, but there sometimes is a
difficutly here, because some crops are so tender
that the leaves may suffer wherever the fertilizer
touches them. — ITm. H. Bowker.
The Village Garden. This is made a nuisance
by neglect and want of care, a success by
thorough work and thoughtful management.
Don't plow, but spade it. Plant a little at a time
and often, so as to have a succession of fresh
vegetables all summer. Give at least a quarter
of it to flowers. The garden so managed be-
comes interesting and will not be neglected; and
an economizer by saving butchers', grocers' and
doctors' bills.— JVfrs. M. J. Cotter, Ills.
Planting Cuttings. The important thing is to
see that the soil o\'er the base of the cutting is
well firmed. It is not enough that the ground
be firm around the top of cutting. The place
where the moisture is needed (and the ground is
made firm to retain the moisture! is at the cut-
ting, whence the roots start. Deep plowing and
careful preparation of the soil, and frequent
shallow culture, with the cuttings firmed well at
the base, will be pretty certain to insure growth.
-Prof. r. A. Kejfcr.
'Wind-breaks for Orchards. An essential ad-
junct to an orchard is a good wind-break on the
south and west, partly to protect the trees
against excessive cold wind storms, and to pre-
vent the fruit being blown off by the strong
southwest winds. Norway Spruce and White
Pine are the best, planted in single or double
rows, eight to twelve feet apart, between the
rows and in the rows, setting the trees in break-
joint style. Belts of trees on the north and
east side would do more harm than good.— J. r.
Cotta before the Horticultural Society of Northern
lUiiioix.
Greenhouse Heating. Mr. W. W. Rawson uses
bituminous coal, it having fifteen per cent more
heat in it, and costing $1.1.5 less per ton. He has
found in the use of this coal that it is economy to
run a thin layer with bright strong fire. Mr. Phil-
brick agreed with Mr. Kawson as to bituminous
coal, it being easier to regulate the fire ; and
cited instances where fires had been banked and
kept smouldering from Saturday night until
Monday morning, at which time it was only
necessary to stoke the fire and open the draft,
and steam was had in ten minutes.— Boston Mar-
ket Gardeners" AssoeiatUm.
Frotecting Feach Trees at the North. James
Little told to the Indiana State Horticultural
Society his plan of insuring a crop of Peaches
every year. It consists in planting young trees
in a metal or earthenware device six or more
inches in diameter and twenty or more inches in
length, in such a manner that the roots can only
extend in two directions. The "trough" in
which the roots are placed is buried the usual
depth of planting and the tree supported by a
stake. In winter the tree is bent to the ground
and covered with stalks or straw, which is not
removed until late in the following spring.
The Best Flums. Mr. S D. Willard, of Geneva,
N. Y. before the Ontario Fruit Growers' Asso-
ciation gave the following six as the most de-
sirable for home use, viz:— (1) Bradshaw— one of
the most profitable and the earliest good Plum;
(3) Lombard, among Plums what the Concord is
among Grapes; (3) Gueii, a hardy, profitable
dark blue Plum following the Lombard; (4) Hud-
son River Purple Egg, one of the best fancy
Plums for maket, hardy and productive; (.5)
Peters' Yellow Gage, introduced by Mr. Barry,
the very best light colored Plum; (6) Coe's Gol-
den Drop. Where hardy enough, he would add
the Reine Claude de Bavay, as being one of she
most profitable of market Plums. Weaver, Wild
Goose and a quantity of that trash, would do to
experiment on.
Lime and Salt. First among chemical pro-
ducts not needed as plant food, which act as
solvents upon the plant food already in the soil,
rendering it suitable tor use is lime. It acts as a
chemical agent in liberating potash, soda and
ammonia from various compositions which occur
in our soils, and are not otherwise available, and
it also improves the mechanical condition of peat
or heavy clay land. It may be applied either as
quicklime, marl or powdered oyster shells, at the
rate of 1000 to 2000 lbs. per acre, spread in the
fall, once in two or three years. Another article
useful in a similar way is common salt. It acts
as a solvent of certain chemical compounds in
the soil, it absorbs moisture in damp weather
and retains it, and distributes other soluble
substances through the soil. It should not be
used for most plants more than 100 or .500 lbs. per
acre.— Bo.s(oH Market Gardeners' Association.
Sarly and Late Fotatoes, Mr. S. Kiehl:-
Northern Potato growers now very freqently re-
sort to the expedient of salting their Potatoes to
keep them from sprouting. Persons buying
northern seed should be careful not to get these,
or they will fail to get a stand. We can get new
Potatoes several days earlier by taking the seed
and spreading it out very thin on shelves or the
floor of a light cellar. They will start short,
thick sprouts, and these will grow as soon as put
into the ground. Mr. Browne:— This is the only
way to get a stand of late Potatoes in this local-
ity. I get my seed from St. Louis about May 1st,
and spread it out on the barn floor, leaving it
there luitil after my Strawberries are gone. Then
plow up the patch, cut my Potatoes with one
sprout to every piece, paying no attention to
eyes that have not sprouted. Then I plant them
on the Strawberry ground that has been plowed
after the second crop has been picked, and have
never failed to get a crop.— Oi.scK.s.wm,s "/ the
Alton Southern-llUnois Hort. Soeiety.
Wisconsin State Horticultural Society. The
annual meeting was held in Madison Feb. 4 to 7
in coiijiniction with the several State Societies.
Among the papers of great merit were " Making
it pay on a Wisconsin Fruit Farm," by A. L.
Hatch, and " How to Prevent Apple Scab," by
Prof. E. S. Goff. Prof. Goff conducted a series
of experiments with remedies for Apple .Scab
last season on Mr. Hatch's farm under the direc-
tion of the Department at Washington with
very flattering results. The Society is now
planning to locate several experimental stations
this season for the purpose of testing new vari-
eties of fruit. This work will be carried on
under the direction of Prof. Goff and controlled
by the State Society co-operating with the Uni-
versity Station. A committee of three to repre-
sent the society and Profs. Goffs and Henry of
the State Univerity faculty are to have charge
of the work. The committee consists of Presi-
dent J. M. Smith; Secretary B. S. Hoxie, Hon.
B. F. Adams, Profs. E. S. Goff and W. A. Henry.
In the completion of local county societies for
the prize of $15.00 for the largest and best col-
lection of seedling Apples, not less than ten
varieties, Waupaca County Society took first
premium. A number of applications were re-
ceived for the summer meeting, and by vote of
the society it was decided to hold that meeting
at Black River Falls in Jackson County. The
meeting will probably be about June 2.5th, and
the "latch string" will be out to all friends of
horticulture. The officers of the society are J M.
Smith, Green Bay, President ; M. A Thayer,
Sparta, Vice-Pesident; B. S. Hoxie, Evansville,
Secretary; A. L Hatch, Ithaca, Cor. Secretary;
Mrs Vie H. Campbell, Evansville, Treasurer —H.
Cultivating and Marketing Sweet
Potatoes.
[Extract of palter read by T. E. Ooodrieh before the
Illinois State Horticultural Society.]
In selecting seed reject all crooked and
unusually long Potatoes, and plant those
showing a tendency to become short and
larger in the center, with a rapid taper
towards each end. Place In a hot beil horiz-
ontally one-half inch apart, drench with
water, cover three inches with earth, then
one and a half inches of sand. When the
plants are four inches above ground, they
are large enough to pull for sets.
Ridge the ground with a two-horse plow, four
feet or less apart, and with a spade plant on the
ridges, eighteen inches apart. Keep free from
weeds and grass. A Sweet Potato scraper, drawn
by a mule, will be of great assistance until the
\ines cover the ground, after which little atten-
tion will be required. Digging can be done with
a spade, if only a small (luantity is grown, or
with a plow with the mould-board removed, and
a rolling cutter to cut the vines.
I use a digger, consisting of two rolling cutters
and two plows, throwing the dirt in opposite di-
rections, and two lifters that pass under the
ridge, leavingt he hdls to be easily Ufted by hand.
The Potatoes designed for table use are separ-
ated from the seed, and corded in bins in the Po-
tato house. Great care should be observed in
handling to prevent marking. A slight bruise,
or a scratch of a finger nail, imperceptible at
first, will become black and unsightly ,and great-
ly impair the sale. No vegetable depends so
much on its good looks for a quick sale at a high
price as a Sweet Potato.
The house is kept as near a uniform temperat-
ure of fifty to Hfty-five degrees as possible.
The crop is marketable from November to
April in barrels and kegs lined with paper to
keep out the cold, and shipped to market _ in
refrigerator cars.
The Clematis Disease.
{Paper by Professor CcfiLstock of f'ornctl Z'/itvcrsity,
read before the Western New York Hort. .Society.)
The symptoms of the Clematis disease
are, the leaves suddenly turn black, and the
vine dies down to a spot near the root that
has a diseased appearance. Frequently after
a period of rest, the plant will take a fresh
start, sending up a new shoot from the root,
but the life of this growth is of short dura-
tion, for the plant that once dies down, is
doomed to perish soon.
At first sight there are strong reasons for locat-
ing the disease in a limited section of the vine
near the ground. This section has a diseased
appearance; the plant dies down to this point;
and later fresh shoots are sent out from below
it as if the roots were healthy. It was doubt.
ess this reason that led Prof Arthur to look
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
157
upon a fundus which he found in the plant at
this point, as the cause of the disease. This fun-
gus was descrilH^d b>' him in one of his reports
to theStat^ KxiHTiment Station. Hut m.v studies
of the past two years have convinced me that
this fungus simply accompanies the disease, and
that the cause of it is something very different.
Every grower of Clematis has observed Icnotty
growths of varying size upon the roots of some
of the plants. It is in the knots or galls (Figure
1) that the cause of the disease is to be found.
If a gall be cut across, and the section examined
with a hand lens of moderately high power, there
will be found imbedded in the abnormal plant
growth small Pear-shaiwd bodies (Figure •_') of
the same color as the cut surface of the root, but
easily \isible by their smooth polished surface.
These Pear-shai)ed bodies are found on careful
examination to be sacs ( Fig-
ure 3) containing a large
number of eggs. In fact
each sac is the body of a
worm which has become
greatly distended by the
eggs which have been de-
veloped in it. It is these
worms, Hctfrodera radicico-
la, cankering the roots of
the plants that cause the dis-
ease. And, as they multi-
ply rapidly when the soil
becomes infected by them,
the spread of the disease is
terrible. I know nursery-
men who a few years ago
produced Clematis plants by
the tens of thousands, who
have been forced to give up
their production on account
of this disease.
But more unfortunate
than the serious injury-
caused by these worms to
the Clematis, is the fact that
thej' do not confine their
attacks to this plant. A very
large number of species are
liable to be attacked by
them, and consequently the
trouble cannot be overcome
by simply suspending the
production of this one plant.
It is a question in which
every horticulturist, what-
ever he produces, is inter-
ested.
These new animals in
question are worms (Fig-
ure 4) belonging to the order known to Zool-
ogists as Nematodes, or thread-worms The spe-
cies of this order that have heretofore attracted
the attention of gardenei-s abroad, are commonly
known as eel-worms. There is also a species
which will serve as a good illustration of the or-
der, known as the harmless "vinegar eel"; minute
creatures often seen wriggling near the surface
of the \-inegar. The order Xematoda is a large
one including many species which vary greatly
in habits. The majority being harmless, feeding
upon the dead or decaying vegetable matter, al-
though a few species are very injurious. The
best known is the one that in England causes
ear-cockles in Wheat, and the Tulip-root of Oats;
but more important than either of these is the
species that infest the Sugar-ljeet in Germany.
That species and the one infesting Clematis are
closely allied, but differ in that the one infesting
Sugar-beet does not cause the plant to form
galls like that infesting Clematis.
Both sexes of this species when young are very
minute, and thread-like in form, but they can
crawl very rapidly, it being in this stage that the
species is spread from plant to plant. The males
always remain more or less thread-like, while the
females after flndinglodging places in the tissues
of the roots, and becoming fertilized become dis-
tended in a remarkable manner, assuming the
shape already descril)ed and increasing in size.
This species of Heterodora is already known
to attack at least seventy-five species of plants,
among which are the following:
Roses, Begonias. Cucumbers, Potatoes and To-
matoes. In the south it is especially destructive
to the Peach and Grape and garden vegetables,
including Cabbage, Turnip and Lettuce, Beet,
Parsnip, Egg-plant and Melon.
This wide range of food plants is the most dis-
couraging element in the treatment of this dis-
ease. In fact we are not in a condition to name
any plant on which the worms cannot live, and
in this direction lies an imjiortant field for future
exjicriments. When such plants have been de-
termined, the cultivation of them upon infested
ground, and thus starving the worms out, will
be the most practical way of meeting the evil in
the case of held crops.
A (Jerman writer, Prof. Kuehn. strongly urges
the use of "catch" plants against the species that
infest Sugar-beet, having used Rape very suc-
cessfully for this purpose. This is sown on in-
fested fields, and the young worms in the soil
penetrate the roots of the plants. After the
roots have become infested, but before the
females have Ijegun to produce young, the plants
are pulled up and destroyed, several crops of
Rape being produced upon the infested field in
The Morel and other Edible Fungi.
tExtract of paper read by Mr. Dean before the Portage
County [O,) Horticultural Society,)
One of the lower orders of cryptoganious
or flowerless plants includes the vast tribes
of Algie and Fungi. I wish to call attention
especially, to one of the edible Fungi, pop-
ularly called Mushrooms, which is not like
the Agaricus or common Mushroom in
appearance and has not the umbrella shape.
It is classed as a bottle-shaped Mushroom
and scientifically it is very nearly related to
the Lichens. It has no common name to
distinguish it from other Mushrooms, like
the same season, each succeeiiing crop tending to I the great Puff ball, therefore I think the
entrap the worms remaining in the soil.
THE CLEMATIS ROOT GALL.
Fiy, 1, Gatls. Pig. 2. Cross section of gall aliinviny Pcar-sliaped Heterodera or thread worm
f'ifl. 3. Female Heterodera with eggs, greatly enlarged. Fig, 4. Toung Heterodtra,
Obviously the use of catch plants is a very ex-
pensive method of fighting the pests, but it is an
expense that would be gladly met by the owners
of valuable lands if they could feel sure of such
results as are reported by Prof. Kuehn. While I
think we are hardly ready yet to give definite
directions for the use of such plants, yet it seems
to me that the growers of Clematis can at once
reduce their losses to the minimum by a little
care in the management of their plant houses,
in the procuring of potting soil, aud in the choice
of fields for planting out.
The conditions in some of our establishments
where Clematis is grown are those most favor-
able for the multiplication and perpetuation of
the disease. The benches upon which the pots
stand are covered with some material which is
only changed at infrequent intervals; the roots
of the diseased plants pass through the hole in
the bottom of the pot and ramify in this mater-
ial and the worms follow the roots, and this ma-
terial becomes a breeding place for the pest for
succeeding lots of plants.
I recommend therefore, that between each two
lots of plants the gravel or coal ashes be care-
fully removed from the benches and placed
where it will not contaminate other crops; that
before replacing the soil, the benches be
thoroughly washed with lye, so as to destroy
any worms that may be lodged in the cracks;
that the soil for potting be carefully selected so
that they shall not be a source of infection; that
in planting out great care be taken to make sure
that it be done on land which is free from this
worm; if any roots of any kind are found in the
soil which have unnatural swellings upon them,
the field should not be used as there will be a
strong probability that such swellings are galls
made by this worm; and finally I recommend
that until the grower is able to produce only
healthy plants he should not use root grafts, for
roots that seem healthy often contain worms.
Latin name, Morchella, should be used.
To my taste it is not sur-
passed in delicate fiavor by
any edible known to me, and
there is absolutely no danger
of mistaking for it any one
of its poisonous relatives.
When once seen the ordinary
eye even of a child is able
to detect it at once. I do
not know that it has ever
l>een cultivated, but if it
ever comes to be and its cul-
tivation is not too difflcult,
I think itwUI prove a source
of great pleasure and profit,
and will add another luscious
food product to the list.
It likes a soil a little sandy
and grows in places where
the moisture is preserved
by decaying vegetation,
frequently in orchards,
under the Apple trees, and
along old fence rows, and
where one is found there are
usually others not far away,
but they are not abundant.
The plant consists of a
stem or pedicle and a cap
or receptacle outside of
which and covering the
whole of it is a structure
that looks a little hke the
meshes of a net The plant
is hollow throughout, and its
color is a reddish brown, ap-
proaching a salmon. The
stem or pedicle is com-
posed of strings of oval-
shaped cells both inside
the outside and lining are
but are alike and extend
Fig. 4.
and out, and
separate structures,
through the whole of the interior, and form the
lining of the cap or receptacle. The two parts
of the stem or pedicle along the division line are
composed of a mass of elongated cells interlock-
ing each other by being bent in all directions in
all sorts of curves, but may be pulled apart show-
ing each division complete in itself.
The cap or receptacle is covered over the
whole surface including the net-like structure
b.v what is called the hymenium. which is the
reproductive portion of the plant. It is not at all
like the Agaricus or common Mushroom, which
has these organs under the cap. This hymenium
consists entirely of elongated cells and the germs
or undeveloped spores from which future plants
are to be produced. Only a part of the cells of
the hymenium are fertile, and these are club-
shaped, with the large end of the club outward.
The other cells, the use of which is not known,
are smaller and occupy the space between the
fertile cells.
The fertile ceUs or fronds, if perfect, contain
each eight oval germs like little eggs lying
obliquely against each other in the larger part of
cell, and when they leave it as perfected spores
they pass out at the large end. Of these fertile
cells or fronds there are hundreds of millions in
a single plant. There being so many they must
of course be microscopic.
The spores after leaving the cells are washed
into soil or the humus covering it, and in due
time begin their growth in the form of little
thread-like filaments. These wind in all direc-
tions. They intermingle and tangle themselves
together in all ways imaginable, and wind them-
sehes in a wad. taking in with them everything
in their way, when at last a kind of conglom-
erate tubercle is formed, from which when
strong enough springs the full-fledged plant into
the glory of perfect development.
158
POPULAR GARDENING.
April,
The treasures of food that hare been prorided
for us in the fungus tribe are sadly neglected
in both this country and England. Of more
than thirty species of edible Fungi in England
only about four are eaten by the inhabitants.
We have probably as many or more species, and
they are certainly as sadly neglected here There
are only two or three that are eaten or even
known and these only by a few; the rest of the
supply are allowed to go to waste, rot under
trees or be eaten by slugs, field mice, toads and
other creatures to which they afford many a
dainty repast.
On the contrary, over the continent of Europe
the edible Fungi are eagerly sought after by all
classes of people. They form the chief diet of
thousands who would otherwise be scantily pro-
vided for. They are also highly prized by the
rich man and the epicure.
Massachusetts Horticultural Society
{"Chri/santhcmums", a paper by W. A.Mandabefore
the Massachusetts Horticultural Society. )
(Cuntinuedfrmn paye 137.)
The place where Chrysanthemums are
grown should have all the light, sun and air
from the time the cuttings are rooted until
the time the cuttings are again ready to be
cut. The soil that these plants seem to pre-
fer is good turfy loam, well mixed with
clay and enriched by ground bone, sheep
manure or other manures or fertilizers.
Many of the thousands of varieties are not
grown at all, while others could be dispensed
with, and only those possessing the best qualities
and distinctness should be kept.
Incurved Varieties. Among the best old sorts
we may count Alfred Salter, lilac pink; Brazen
Shield, bronze color; Bronze Queen of England,
Frank Wilcox, golden amber color; Golden Queen
of England, yellow; Helen of Troy, deep rose;
Hero of Stoke Newington, pink; Jardin des
Plantes, golden yellow; Jeanne d'Arc, blush
white; Lord Wolseley, bronzy red; Miss Mary
Morgan, pink; Prince Alfred, )Ose carmine;
Venus, pink; "N'irginalis, white.
Japanese Varieties. Among the multitude of
the Japanese varieties those found to give the
Ijest results are. Admiration, Ulac; Bend d'Or,
golden yellow; Ceres, white; Bras Rouge, dark
crimson; Comte de Germiny, nankeen yellow;
Duchess, deep red; Ed. Audignier, crimson
maroon; Edwin Molyneux, Elaine, white;
Fantaska, coppery maroon; Gloriosum, yellow;
Grandiflorum, yellow; Joseph Collins, coppery
bronze; John Thorpe, deep lake; Marvel, white
shaded; Mrs. G. Bullock, white; H. Cannal, Mrs.
H. Waterer, white; Mi-s. F. Thompson, white
purple; Newport, rose; Pelican, white; Peter the
Great, lemon yellow; Robert Bottomly, white;
Robert Craig, pink; Sadie Martinet, yellow; Stars
and Stripes, carmine; Superbe Flore, carmine
rose; Thomas S. Ware, rose; Va\ d'Andorre,
coppery bronze.
Beflexed Varieties. The reflexed are not so
numerous but contain such varieties as Culling-
fordii, brilliant crimson; Golden Christine, light
yellow; Phoebus, yellow; Sam Sloan, pale blush;
President Ayde, rich yellow.
Anemone-Flowered Varieties. As the best we
may class Princess, delicate lilac; Thorpe .Tr.,
Mme. Cabrol, white; Bessie Pitcher, deep rose.
Those of late years' introduction that have
proved superior to the already long list are Mrs.
A. Hardy, white; Alaska, pearly white; Ramona,
yellow, Adirondac, white; Moadnock, yellow;
Narragansett white; Mrs de Witt Smith, white;
Advance, pink; Avalanche, white; Excellent,
rose; Bell Mickey, white; Bell Poiteatine, white;
Colossal, pearly white; E. H. Fitter, yellow;Kivo,
yellow; Capucine, Vermillion; LaFortune, yel-
low; L. B. Dana, red; L. Canning, white; L. B.
Bird, shrimp pink; Magicienne, chamois color;
Mrs. W. K. Harris, yellow; Violet Rose, rose;
William H. Lincoln, yellow; Philippe Lacroix,
rose; Snowball, white; Sunnyside, flesh color,
Nessima, yellow; Mrs. Sam Houstan. white; Mrs.
Irring Clark, pearly white; Mrs. Fottler, .soft
rose; Mme. Louise Le Roy white; Miss Mary
Wheeler, pearly white.
New Chrysanthemunn. Of the new ones that
are going to be sent out this spring, those that I
have seen and which are to my mind the most
promising are Shasta, white; I'ortez, red; Huron,
mauve; Tacoma, creamy white; President Har-
rison, a new shade of bright red; Harry E. Wide-
ner, yellow, Bohemia, Venetian red; Mrs. Hicks
Arnold, soft pink (very early); Virginia, rose;
Iroquois, red; Kearsarge, mauve; Crown Prince,
red; Ada Spaulding, light pink; Cyclone, creamy
white, and Thomas Edison. The above are all
American-raised varieties, and there are scores
of others of more or less pretence.
New Japanese varieties of last year's importa-
tion are not numerous; some of them are Rohal-
lion, with stiff chrome-yellow petals; Raleigh,
buff color; Ithaca, rose; Arizona, yeUow, and
Ellicott E. Shepard, broad, clear, yellow petals,
and a few others requiring further test.
From a commercial point of view. Chrysanthe-
mums play quite an important part in the nur-
sery and florists' business. Millions of plants
are sold every spring from the many nurseries
throughout the country, while in the flowering
season Chrysanthemums are the principal flowers
used by the florists. Some maintain that Chrys-
anthemums injure the florists' trade, or that
they are not profitable to grow tor cut flowers,
yet I have always seen good flowers bring good
prices, and they are nowadays like anything else.
Only the best is wanted at good prices, while the
poor stuff cannot be given away.
Nomenclatore. In naming Chrysanthemums,
the reform started by Dr. Walcott should be fol-
lowed; that is, the names should be as short as
possible, and, certainly, such names as Alaska,
Shasta and Cortez are far preferable to such as
our English or French competitors aflBx to their
novelties; for example, Bronze Queen of Eng-
land, Hero of Stoke Newington, Monsieur le
Comte de Foucher de Cartel. By all means give
us names that can be written on one label.
Fremiam for New Sorts. As to Chrysanthemum
exhibitions, while the various societies and clubs
offer fair prizes for either plants or cut flowers,
there is a very small inducement for the raiser
of new varieties, which branch should be en-
couraged more than anything else,so that before
long we may see our ideal Chrysanthemum, com-
bining all good qualities necessary to make a
perfect plant and flower.
Raspberries and Blackberries.
(Extract of paper read by H. B. Cotta, before the Hort.
Society of Northern Illinois.)
With Raspberries and Blackberries, as
with all other fruits, we must not expect
profitable returns unless we work for them.
On the other hand, I find them quite
profitable where proper attention is given.
I drove by a small field of Turner in this city
a few days ago. The plants had been set some
years ago in squares, and are still cultivated
both ways. Each plant stands in a block of sod
about two feet square. I suppose it I had talked
with the owner of that field about the profitable-
ness of that crop, he would have told me it did
not pay to raise Raspberries.
In this section of the State, Raspberries have
been neglected, and Blackberries left to care for
themselves. There is not one grower in ten who
will give his Raspberries and Blackberries as
good cultivation as he does his Corn.
To succeed in this industry, we must give as
close attention to every detail as we would if
managing a store. Do not attempt to grow
berries unless you can attend to them when they
need it, any more than you would attempt to
fatten your live stock on half rations.
Soil and Planting. Any good Corn land that
is not too low can be made to produce profitable
crops of Raspberries and Blackberries. Prepare
the ground as well as possible, setting the crown
of the roots about three inches below the surface
of the ground. Blackberries and strong-growing
Raspberries, like Shaffer's Colossal, should be
placed three by eight feet apart ; Black-cap
Raspberries, two and one-half by six feet apart.
Cabbage, Potatoes, Corn, or some other hoed
crop, should be planted between the rows of
berries the first year, which will partly pay the
expense of cultivation, and of the berry plants.
Cultivation should be done frequently and
thoroughly, and the weeds kept down.
After the first year, there will not be room to
raise any other crop with the berries, but the
cultivation must be kept up year after year as
long as you want profitable crops of fruit. In
small fields and gardens, mulching may be done
in place of cultivation, where cultivation is not
convenient. The first year I pinch off the tips
of the largest canes when they are about eigh-
teen inches high, and the following spring I cut
back the side branches, .^fter the first year, I nip
off the ends of the young canes when they are
about two feet high, with my thumb and finger,
going over the same field two or three times, at
intervals of a week or ten days, as the canes are
not at all tall enough when I go through the first
time. The trimming of side branches or laterals
I do in the spring after new growth begins; then
I leave them eighteen to twenty-four inches long
except when they are injured, when I cut the
injured part all off. After the fruit is all gather-
ed, the old canes should be cut out at once, or
may be left till the following spring.
Picking, If you have a number of pickers-
it is necessary to have some one in the field to
watch them, and watch them closely too, so they
will pick all the ripe berries, and only the ripe
ones, never putting dirty or moldy berries in the
box. This is important. Always use new, clean
boxes, of uniform size, to market your fruit in.
Now, as to varieties; don't plant too extensive-
ly of some new variety that will produce " fully
five times as much fruit as any other," unless
you wish to be disappointed. Stick to the old
stand-bys that have been doing well in your
locality, or one similar to yours, until you have
proven the newer to be at least as good as the
older kinds. If you wish to keep up with the
times, try the best of the new kinds in a small
way, as now and then there is something valu-
able among them. The best early black-caps
with us are Tyler and Souhegan, which are
nearly identical, and hardy and prolific. The
best medium is Ohio; hardy, very prolific, and
fine-flavored. The Gregg is the largest, and
latest to ripen, but lacks in hardiness.
Of red, suckering varieties. Turner for early,
and Cuthbert for late, have the lead. Marlboro,
Hansen, Reliance, Scarlet Gem, and many others,
have not been satisfactory. Shaffer's Colossal is
a dark red berry, and propagates from tips. It
has been more profitable for local markets than
any other Raspberry with us, and is rapidly
growing in favor throughout the country.
Snyder, Ancient Briton and Stone's Hardy, are
the best Blackberries, but to insure a good crop
every year, they must be covered in winter.
Blackberries were an abundant crop throughout
Northern Illinois last summer, better than for a
number of years. The canes of many kinds of
Raspberries were injured more than Blackberries
last winter.
Growing Strawberries.
(Extract of paper read by D. J. Piper before the Hort-
icultural Society of Northern Illinois.)
My advice is, have the Strawberries well
ripened for your own use, well colored for a
near market, and only about haK ripe for a
distant market, and they will color inside of
twenty hours. Otherwise the seeker after
information can do little better than to read
all the literature within his reach, treating
upon these matters, inform himself, and use
his best judgement in the selection and
cultivation of varieties. Success with any
variety which is adapted to the soil in which
it is placed, depends more upon the prepa-
ration of the soil previous to planting than
upon all other circumstances combined.
No amount of manuring or cultivation after
planting can atone for previous neglect. The
soil must be made rich, fine and friable to the
depth of twelve or eighteen inches if possible.
This in most cases can only be done by several
plowings. My plan of setting the plants is to
mark off the ground as I would for Corn, and set
the plants m the hill system as I would plant
Corn. Cultivate both ways until the plants run,
then cultivate only one way.
In growing the Strawberry, I have tried many
different kinds, and find most of them do well,
when I have prepared the ground well previous
to planting. There is such a thing as having the
soil too rich, unless you stop the increase of the
young plants b.v cutting off the runners. I have
had single plants that a bushel basket would not
cover. Some say that a variety will run out; so
say I.
In the case of the Wilson, we cannot grow
such crops of the Wilson as we used to do. I
care not how you cultivate, and this will hold
good in every case. The old must die, and the
new or young must take its i)lacc. Plants have
a certain age to live and produce, and then die,
and I think the heavier we crop them, the
shorter their lives will be for production; hence
we must grow new plants from seed again, and
we again have the proper vitality to produce
what we cannot get from the old and worn-out
plants. Take any species of plants that .vou can
grow from seed, and you have got to renew it
1889.
POPULAR GARDENING.
159
by plantiiiK scod ami jriuwiiii; ymiiiyr plant*, and
thcit' is not any liuit-sriiiwing: plant that can be
more readily (frown trom seed than the delicious
Strawberry.
The Fruits and Flowers of Northern
Japan.
[Paper read bu Pruf. Brooks before the Massaclnisetis
TTorticultural Society,)
Yes.so lio.s off the coast of Silieria between
about 41 'j'-" and 4.5^'' north latitude. Its
area is about 'JT.tKXl square miles— a little
less than tliat of Ireland. Only about a
quarter part of this area is fitted for culti-
vation. The highest mountains attain an
elevation of about eight thousand feet, but
the great majority range from one thousand
to four thousand feet. The lower slopes up
to an elevation of from five hundred to a
thousand feet, are covered with a rich
growth of deciduous trees— Maples, Oaks,
Magnolias, Cercidiphyllums, Elms, Lindens,
Cherries, and Birches predominating.
Above these altitudes, Conifera?, chiefly two
species of Spruce, predominate.
By tar the most abundant and important plant
here found is a kind of Bamboo grass (.Arundi-
naria), which in places forms almost impenetra-
ble thickness, from two to ten or more feet high.
The leaves are evergreen, and it constitutes a
most valuable and nutritious winter pasturage
for deer, and also for cattle and horses, which in
most parts of the island keep in good condition
on It during the winter months. Where this
Arundinaria grows, it crowds out all the other
undergrowth except trees and climbers. The
enormous number and variety of climbers,
woody and herbaceous, contribute much to the
appearance of tropical luxuriance and richness.
The climate of Yesso is in many respects not
unlike that of New England, but it is a little
cooler in summer and milder in winter, and the
air is a little more humid, and the percentage of
sunshine somewhat less. The autumn frosts are
late in coming, seldom destroying even the most
tender plants before the middle of October. The
snowfall is large, averaging about twelve feet ;
it usually falls upon unfrozen ground, or at least
the frost is so slight that by the middle of Janu-
ary the ground, even in open fields, is free from it.
Fraits. Yesso is not particularly rich in in-
digenous fruits ; those most extensively used are
a wild Strawberry, two species of Raspberries,
a Chestnut, a Walnut, a Grape, and the Kokuxoa-
Huckleberries, C'heckerberries, Cranberries, and
Blackberries, although found, are not abundant
and practically are never made use of. Two or
three species of Strawberries are found, but the
only one of any importance is Fragaria rc^ca,
which in some districts is so abundant that the
manufacture of jam from the fruit was at one
time an important industry. This jam was par-
ticularly high-flavored and delicious. This fruit
is in cultivation very vigorous and fairly pro-
ductive ; small to medium in size, whitish-red
U "^ £
Modes of Drainage and V^entilation for Cellars,
wnen ripe, and very sweet and high-flavored^
with a taste altogether difterent from that of our
varieties. About one-third of the plants pro-
duced only staminate flowers and no fruit. The
other plants bore smaller flowers, with perfect
pistils and stamens. American Strawlwrries
flourish and increase rapidly.
Of Raspberries, only two species need be no-
ticed, RuhK^ parvifoliuA is of a low, half-running
habit of growth; the fruit is red, but verj- loosely
constructed, and soft in texture. The flavor is
good, but the fruit cannot be hand e 1 without
being reduced, to mush. Rubu^ phanicolasius
has the Black Cap habit of growth. The canes
are strong and tall, not requiring artificial sup.
port, and the prickles are unusually soft and
harmless. The fruit is produced in large clus-
ters, is of fair size, and, being of a beautiful
scarlet color, presents a very attractive appear-
ance. It is fairly tirm, and in flavor quite differ-
ent trom anything we have, having less of the
distinctive Raspberry flavor, and being slightly
more acid than our varieties, but less rich. The
griiwing fruit is entirely covered and protected
by the reddish pubescent calyx until just as it
begins to ripen. American varieties of Rasp-
berries and Blackberries do well.
The Y'esso Chestnut, very abundant in many
sections and much used by the aborigines of the
island us well as by the Japanese, lis in ;size and
qvuility almost identical with the American, and
altogether difl'erent from the large Chestnut of
Japan, but Uke that produces
fruit very young. The Yesso
Walnut closely resembles the
English Walnut, but is inferior
both in size and quality.
The native Grajte is VUis La-
brusca. The fruit is of inferior
quality, but the vine is remark-
ably rank and vigorous in habit.
A specimen with a stem four-
teen inches in diameter was
found near Sapporo, and leaves
nearly two feet across are often
seen. The cultivated Grape of
old Japan is VitU vinifera, but
the summer at Yesso does not -<
aftord sufficient heat to ripen it. --
The Delaware is the only one -;
of our American varieties which
has succeeded.
(To he continued.)
flg. .'), is to be preferred. A small pipe tile is
much better than a very large one. The angular
bottom is best of all, to confining the water to an
acting channel. Pure air may be partly had
through windows hung on hinges, to be opened
or partly closed, as required. A small stove in a
room above may also be employed for effecting
constant ventilation tor the arrangement repre-
sented in flg. t>. The pipe immediately connected
with the stove becomes filled with heated air,
which rises in it and causes an upward current
GLEAN-
CONDENSED
iNGs. »a" 't;
A Handy Forcing Honse. The * ■
annexed illustration, reduced
from Home and Farm, repre-
sents a fire hotbed or forcing bouse, described as
follows : The sashes are 3x8 feet, the beds built
with IH inch Oak, three feet deep on the higher
side and .30 inches deep on the lower side, giving
a six-inch slope to the south. Oak posts were
used every eight feet. Then a scantUng was
nailed eighteen inches from the top on each side
to hold up the floor. The flue for conveying the
heat is Ijelow this floor. Two scantlings run the
entire length of the bed with props under them
to hold them up on each side of the flue. The
floor must always be built strong, or it will break
down. It holds ten inches of earth and here the
seeds are planted. Wood is used for fuel, and
but little fire is needed. Build the furnace on a
level with the ground or a little lower, excavat-
ing a place five feet deep in which to stand and
fix the fire. The flue has a rise of eighteen in-
ches in the first twenty feet; after this fifteen to
eighteen inches to the end of the bed is sufficient.
Two boards seven inches wide, and two nine in-
ches wide, all twelve feet long will answer tor
the chimney. To make the furnace, use three
grate bars, each 5x40 inches, and raise them
ten inches from the ground on bricks. These
are inclosed with firebrick, fire-clay tiles cover
the top and fire-clay should be used for mortar.
The flue for the first ten feet must be made of
fire brick. Common brick will answer the
balance of the way. A board roof should be
placed over the furnace excavation, and sheet
iron should be nailed above the furnace door to
keep it from taking fire. Four air holes on a
side allow the air from the space beneath the
floor to rise under the glass. If it should get too
warm, board could be laid over the apertures.
Do not burn coal. The soot wUl choke the flue
and coal gas is sometimes generated, which is
fatal to the plants. A vessel made of galvanized
iron and placed on the furnace generates moist-
ure, and makes it more desirable for plant
growing.
Cellar Drainage. A stranger passing into the
apartments of the cellar should be unable to
perceive anything but perfect purity in the air.
To secure this desirable result, perfect drainage,
usually by artificial drains, is required. One
point which should be well understood, is, to
give the bottom of the drain a form which will
aid the free flow of any water which might
otherwise accumulate. A broad, flat bottom, as
shown in fig. 1 of the accompanying cross-sec-
tions would cause the water to spread thinly
over it and not run off; but a sharply narrow
channel, bringing all the water together, as
shown in fig. ;i, would produce a current which
more freely carries off all sediment. In flg. 3
the old mode of using flat sole for horse-shoe tile
is obviously defective. It would be better to in-
vert this kind of tile, as represented in fig. 4,
where the water is more nearly confined in nar-
row 'imits. For this reason, tubular or pipe tile,
A HANDY FORCING HOUSE.
in all the pipe above, drawing the air upward in
the pipe from the cellar.— Country Gentleman.
Kepacklnp California Fruits. The California
Prune was first introduced by reliable packers
on the Pacific slope in boxes weighing 25 pounds
net. Following the foreign custom of grading,
they were carefully sorted and packed according
to size and the boxes plainly branded, 50-60, BO-70,
70-80, etc., meaning that the fruit, as packed in
that particular box, run from 60 to 60 Prunes to
each pound. In addition to this, they have re-
cently been shipping the product in sacks, less
expensive than Ijoxing, saving about one-half
cent per pound to the retailer and consumer.
Now comes the fraud. For several years past,
men made a business of repacking and reproces-
sing old fruit, mixing with new. Old Currants
have been steamed, syruped, mi.xed, repacked
and sold as new. Currants have been doctored
up and repacked, and in some instances a reput-
able importer's shipping mark has been skillfully
imitated and) stencilled on the box to give color
to the fraud. Old Prunes have been steamed,
doped and sold for new. It is time to call a halt.
The California Prune has made such a splendid
reputation that we cannot afford to flitter it
away. The retailer who buys California Prunes
should weigh the goods and see that he gets what
he pays for. Look out for boxes topped off with
70 to 80 fruit, while 90 to 100 are fllled.in below.
Better still, buy the California sacked Prune
and you will be sure to get the weight you
pay for.— Interstate Grocer.
Gardeners' .Friends and Enemies. In every
rural commune in France, boards are put up
bearing the following instructions: " This board
is placed under the protection of the common
sense and honesty of the public. Hedgehog. Lives
upon mice, snails and wire worms — animals in-
jurious to agriculture. Don't kill a hedgehog.
Toad. Helps agriculture; destroys twenty to
thirty insects hourly. Don't kill toads. Mole.
Destroys wire- worms, larvse and insects injurious
to the farmer. No trace of vegetables is ever
found in bis stomach; does more good than harm.
Don't kill moles. Cock-chafer and its larvae.
Deadly enemy to farmei-s; lays 70 to 100 eggs.
Kill the cock-chafer. Birds. Each department
of France loses yearly many millions of francs
by the injury done by insects —Am. Agricult'ist.
Trees on Waste Places. Nearly every farm
has one or more acres not worth cultivating or
fencing, which might easily be turned to forest
growth. It is especially desirable to clothe the
high hilltops with trees, not only as protection
against winds, but for the effect it would have
in preventing the hillsides becoming parched by
drouth. Trees on the top of a hill serve to hold
the moisture in the ground, and keep the whole
hill more moist. The more generally the hilltops
are covered with forest, the less bleak will be the
country; and less violent the winds sweeping
i6o
POPULAR GARDENING.
April,
unresisted over the country. Every forest patch
is a windbreak, and the more of these the less
will the inhabitants be annoyed by cold and
high winds.— Massachusetts Ploughman.
Brighton Orape. I know a large and thrifty
vineyard near me, which the owner is going to
graft, because in the three years the vines have
fruited, the field has become very poor—bunches
loose and scraggly. I hear of other large vine-
yards of this Grape that have been dug out. It
seems to be deficient in pollen— many of the
blossoms barren, etc. On the other hand I know
of Brighton vines in this vicinity, scattered
through a vineyard of other varieties, that bear
well, bunches compactand large.— Corr. Country
Gentleman.
Selling Truck at a Profit. If you sell to the
middle men they get the lion's share of the profits.
By retailing j'our products you have a certain
trade every day, and no matter how flooded the
market your customer will rely on your wagon
to supply them, and will not buy elsewhere.
Market gardening affords more pleasuie aud
profits than any other branch of farming.— A. H.
Clark in Del. Farm and Home.
Bagging Tomatoes, our bagged Tomatoes
were so delicate in color, so very smooth and
perfect that members of the household did not,
upon first seeing them, know what they were.
Now we hear of perfect specimens of Pears and
•Plums raised in this way. It would not pay in a
money sense, to do such work, but it might well
serve to delight and instruct the little folks.—
Foreign E.xchange.
FrincesB Loniae Apple, Its aristocratic name
accords well with the daintiness of its quality, as
well as with its general appearance, as also with
the political peculiarities of its native region;
but it will be very sure, if naturalized on this
side of the border, to lose the aristocratic prefix;
and despite its acknowledged delicacy and beauty
become i)lain Louise.— T. T. Lyon.
Crop Feeding. All fruit growers should under-
stand that it is necessary to supply three elements
only— phosphoric acid, potash and nitrogen. Ten
pounds of bone meal and half a bushel of un-
leached wood ashes to the rod should be sufficient
on any soil, but it more be applied it will not be
lost, but will be retained for succeeding crops.—
Mr. Crawford in ( >hio Farmer.
Improving the Soil, a crop of Peas plowed
under secures to the land the highest stimulant
for the least possible money that can be obtained
from any other known appliance. It soon con-
verts the land into a dark, rich and mellow soil,
such as is produced by leaf mold on the surface
in the course of half a century.— Texas J.T. H.
Sandwich Island Mammoth Salsify. This is
not much ditferent from the ordinary sort in
flavor and ijuality; but the same seed, ground
and culture will produce twice or three times as
much in quantity. Planted side by side you will
get two or more bushels from the same length of
row that yields one of the old kind.— E. S. Gilbert.
Be-grafting the Pear, The most effectual cure
for the cracking of the Pear, so common, espec-
ially with the Virgallieu and Flemish Beauty
varieties, is to re-graft the trees with some other
sorts. The Bartlett, Seckel, Anjou, Lawrence,
and Kieffer have not this fault.— So says the
veteran, J. J. Thomas.
Tobacco Stems, No more successful use can
be made of them than to mulch fruit trees; they
repel insects, absorb moisture, and as they rot
slowly they give up potash salts and other forms
of plant food essential to the health and f ruitf ul-
ness of all sour fruits.— B. F, Johnson.
Seedling Peaches. If you live where " Peaches
won't grow," select your driest knoll and experi-
ment a little with various sorts, so long as a dozen
trees can be set and brought to bearing age for
less than the pedler's price for a bushel of Peaches.
E. S. Gilbert, Tribune.
Landscape Oardening. It is not in doing things
that the landscape gardener's art is most fully
illustrated. Some of his greatest triumphs have
been achieved by knowing exactly what to leave
alone.— London Garden.
Ohildren are Fond of Fruit. Let the child have all
the fruit it wants. Every mouthful of fruit that re-
plaoe.s a mouthful of meat means better health and
lunger life for the child.— Western Biu-al.
Early Peas. If you want the lowest growing vines,
buy the " filinimum." If you want a Pea that will pay
you for the planting and cultivation, buy some other
variety.— Rural New Yorker.
Early Apples. It Is dinicult to Improve on the trio
of Russian Apples for early use, Red Astrachan, Te-
tofsky and Yellow Transparent.— Joslah Hoopes.
Cuthbert Baspberry. It has one objection only,
namely, that it Is a little late In ripening,— Orange Co.
Farmer.
Results ol Fruit Growers' MeetinKS. The quality
of Michigan fruits Is said to be all the time Improving.
Respect the Roots. Pant good roots; the tops will
take care of lhcmseIves.~Ex,
Vegetable Products on the Table.
Crystalized Orange. Cut the fruit into rather
thick slices, pick out the seeds, dip into the beat-
en white of egg and then in powdered sugar.
Dry in a very cool oven on paper-lined plates,
Nice to serve with Nuts and Kaisins.-Mrs. E. B.
in Rural New Yorker.
Asparagus Omelet. Boil two pounds of tender,
fresh-cut Asparagus in a very little salt, or steam
till tender. Chop it very fine; mix it with the
yolks of five and whites of three well-beaten
eggs; add two tablespoonfuls of sweet cream;
fry, and serve quite hot.— Home and Farm.
Staffed Cabbage. Take a large, fresh Cabbage
and cut out the heart; fill the place with stuffings
made of cooked chickens or veal, chopped very
fine and highly seasoned, rolled into balls with
yolk of egg; tie the Cabbage flrml.v together and
boil in a covered kettle for two hours.— Ex.
Prune Pies. Take one pound Prunes and soak
them over night, so the stones will slip out easily;
stew in some water with as many raisins as you
wish: sweeten; use less water than for sauce:
when both are soft grate in the rind of two Lem-
ons and fill the pie, allowing two crusts.— Ex.
Parsnips Served in Cream. Pare and boil the
Parsnii)s after cutting them in lengthwise slices,
dividing if they are too long. When they are
done, pour off the water, add white pepper, salt,
a very little butter, and a cupful of cream. Pour
this on and let come to a boil just before serving.
Apple Tarts. Line round patties with paste;
in each one place the half of a tart, peeled Apple.
a tablespoonful of sweet cream, butter size of a
Hickory nut, tablespoonful of sugar and a pinch
of Nutmeg. Put core side of Apple down, and
sugar, etc., on top. Bake until the Apples are
soft.— Pacific Rural Press.
Apple Marmelade. Scald Apples till they will
pulp from the core; then take an equal weight
of sugar in large lumps, just dip them in water,
and boiling it till it can be well skimmed and is a
thick syrup, put to it the pulp, and simmer it
over a quick fire one-fourth of an hour. Grate
on a very little Lemon peel before boiling —
Mirror and Farmer.
Fragments Freshened. The Asparagus left
from dinners is delicious thus served: Cut in bits,
and beat with three, four or five eggs, according
to the remnant, and season with pepper and salt.
Put a spoonful of butter in a saucepan, and when
it has melted and run over the bottom of the
pan, turn in the eggs and stir constantly until
they are cooked; then pour upon toasted bread.
Carrots, with Cream. Take a quantity of the
smallest new Carrots that can be obtained; boil
them in salted water; when done, drain oft the
water; melt one ounce of butter in a sauce pan;
add to it a desertspoonfui of flour, pepper, salt,
grated Nutmeg, a pinch of powdered sugar and a
small quantity of cream; put in the Carrots; sim-
mer gently a few minutes and serve.— Horticul-
tural Times.
Baked Canned Tomatoes. Empty a can of
Tomatoes into a bowl. After an hour season
them with a teaspoonful of sugar, half as much
salt, a little pepper, and a tablespoonful of butter
cut into bits, each bit rolled in flour, and all dis-
tributed evenly throughout the Tomatoes. Cover
with very dry bread crumbs. Bake in a covered
pudding dish for about thirty minutes, then
brown on the upper grating of the oven.—
.■Vmerican Grocer.
Cabbage Salad. Take two quarts of finely
chopped or shaved Cabbage, one tablespoonful
of fine salt, two tablespoonfuls of white sugar,
halt a teaspoonful of black pepper, and one heap-
ing teaspoonful of ground Mustard; rub the
yolk of three hard boiled eggs until very smooth,
add half a cup of butter slightly warmed; mix
all thoroughly with the Cabbage, and then add
one teacupful of hot vinegar. Put the salad in a
dish with the whites of three eggs sliced aud
placeil on the top.— () Farmer.
Potato Cakes and Eggs. A good supper or
breakfast dish may be made by mashing up cold
Potutoes with a little butter, and adding one
raw egg to each one pound of Potatoes Mould
into cakes about two or two and a half inches
across, put these into a hot meat tray or baking
tin with a small quantity of hot dripping; brown
the cakes on both sides, poach one egg for each
cake ,trim it, and lay it on when the cakes are
done. For those who like herbs, the cakes are
very nice when mixed with minced Shallot. Pars-
ley and Thyme. Garnish with Parsley . -Ger-
mantown Telegraph.
Bow to Make Good Coffee. Get good Coffee
in tbebean, eitherroast<>dorraw. If the former,
keep it in a tight can. If the latter be careful
to roast it evenly, without burning. Grind only
what you wish to use for one meal. Make a bag
of unbleached mnsUn large enough to hold a
pint. Take a wire large enough to fit the top of
the Coffee pot, and fasten the bag to it. Put into
this bag (which must be scalded and dried) as
many tablespoonfuls of ground Coffee as there
are persons to drink it. Pour boiling water unto
it, until you have enough for the family. Let it
stand two or three moments, and then pour out
a cupful of the clear Coffee, and pour it again
into the bag. Repeat this three times. You can
then lift out the bag, if you choose, or leave it in
the Coffee pot while serving the Coffee, if pre-
ferred. No egg is needed, and the Coffee will be
perfectly clear as long as there is a drop. De-
licious Coffee can be made in this way, in five
minutes.— The Farmer.
HOUSE PLANTS.
Beeonias of the tuberous-rooted section to be potted
as needed, usingamlxtureof about two parts of fibrous
loam to one of leaf mold and good dash of sand. Drain
weU and pot moderately firm. A fairly light and sunny
window suits them well. B. metalllea succeeds best In
a somewhat shady window.
Bulbs, such as Hyacinths, Tulips, Lily of the Valley.
etc., If brought In from the cold frames early this
month, at the north, will do well in the window and
come ahead of out-door blooms,
Callas. When done blooming, water but sparingly
and after the weather becomes fairly warm, take out
of the p<»ts and plant in rich soil out doors. Lift again
In August,remove the small bulblets and repot the old.
Oamellias to be frequently syringed and the leaves
sponged off.
Chrysanthemums should make an uninterrupted
grovrth. Do not let them become pot-bound. Cuttlugs
may yet be struck for late plants.
ClimbinE Plants may be given their annual pruning
before the buds start. Trim the side shoots of Roses
back to one or two buds. Early flowering Clematis
may be pruned In the same way. cut those of the late
blooming class back to within a short distance of the'
surface of the ground, which treatment will Insure
strong growth from the base and plenty of bloom.
Fuchsias when in bloom need plenty of water at
their roots. Give weak liquid manure once or twice a
week. Shift as needed.
General. The window should now be gay with
bloom. A portion of the plants to be used for bedding
ptu-poses may be procured now. and be kept In the
window for their bloom until the planting out time.
Hel otrope should never be allowed to become pot-
bound, as all Its beauty depends on having plenty of
root room. Shift as needed.
Mignonette does not easily transplant. If wanted '
as pot plant for the window, sow seed directly In pot.
Oleanders of small size to be taken out of the pots
and bedded out.
Petunias, if old and unshapely, to be cut back
thoroughly.
Fropagation. Chrysanthemums. Stevlas, Eupatorl-
ums, Roses, Carnations, Abutllons and many other
plants may yet be propagated for winter flowering.
Pot the cuttings as soon as possible after they are
rooted.
Window Boxes. Prepare a lot of plants now for
stocking up boxes In May with plants of considerable
size, such have been earlier brought along In good
shape by due repotting.
LAWN AND FLOWER GARDEN.
Annuals of hardy kinds may now be started In opeit
air. such as Candytuft. Sweet Pea, Convolvulus minor.
Mignonette, Clarkla, Sweet Alyssum, Briza, Luplnus,
etc. Half nardy and tender sorts may be started under
glass or In a sunny spot that Is sheltered from the wind
by buildings, aud to be protected by mats or shutters
In cool nights.
Bedding Plants. Most of these may be grown on
in hot-beds for the last sl.x weeks before planting out.
Remove the sashes entirely m warm days, which will
tend to make strong, robust plants.
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
161
Bulb beds to bt' raked over before the plants ap-
pear above ground.
Carnations and other sash plants should now be
hardened oil by rouslderable exposure, and may then
be planted out.
Flower Beds. If any are to be cut In the lawu make
a line niarKlu of turf around them. Also edge the lawn
where It tmrders on paths and drives, In the same
manner.
Hedges to be given thetr annual pruning-
Gladiolus. BegUi planting out. and continue plant*
lug at intervals of t«n days or two weeks until middle
of June.
Hardy Perennials. If soil Is dry. these may be taken
up, <ilvlded and reset as required.
Lawn- Sow seed as soon as new lawns are made.
On strong soil sow JuneGrassfKenlucky Blue), on high
soils Red Top, at the rate of four to six bushels to the
aere, two or three times in as raany dlflferent direc-
tions. This Insures an even growth. Roll after each
sowing. Mow the old lawns whenever the grass gets to
be near two Inches high. Mow evenly and carefully
that no vacant strips will be left.
Lilies should be planted early, if at all at this season.
Fall Is the better time. L. Candtdum only is trans-
planted in August.
Ornamental Trees and Shrubs should be planted
early; Evergreens when the new growth starts. Keep
the roots uf these moist and euver with blankets.
Roses of the hardy kinds to be planted out as early
as they can be procured, and the soil be put in proper
order for planting.
Seed Sowing. When making the early sowings of
annuals sow In drills, rings and clumps— never broad-
cast. The furrows may be made a half Inch deep, the
seed scattered quite thickly and covered with tine
earth. Dried and pulverized moss or fine leaf mold
may be sifted over the seed In place of earth. Firming
must in no case be neglected.
Tree Protection. Street trees should always be pro-
tected against injury from knawlng of horses, etc., by
some kind of guard. This may be made of slats, but
the best thing is a piece of woven wire wound round
the tree body. Wherever staking is required or thought
necessary, bind the tree or shrub fast with a strip of
duck or leather; rather than with a cord. Such a strip
may simply be brought around the tree, and crossed on
top of the stake, to be held there by a nail or two
driven Into the stake.
Weeds to be destroyed wherever seen. Some of them
flower and seed very early. Chickweed is one of the
worst. Hunt up the Dandelions and Plantains on the
lawn, and pull them when the ground is soft, or cut
them oflf with a sharp knife just below the crovra.
PLANT CULTURE UNDER GLASS.
Alternanlheras for bedding purposes may easily be
propagated by dividing up the stock on hand In small
pieces, each with a little root, and setting in a close
frame in high beat.
Annnals sown early should be thinned early to avoid
crowding. Top the straggling ones.
Airing. Strict attention must be paid to proper ven-
tilation at this time, to Insure healthy wood and
stocky growth of plants.
Carnations to be given a lop dressing of fine manure.
Cuttings may still be made of Verbenas, Petunias,
Achyranthes, Coleus, Salvias, Heliotropes, Fuchsias,
German Ivy, etc., for summer decoration, and of Chrys-
anthemums. Slevlas. Roses, Carnations, Violets, etc.,
for winter flowering. Pot them immediately when
roots, however small, are present.
Ferns to be shifted, or at least the soil in pots to be
renewed.
Fuchsias require warmth, moisture and moderate
shade. If wanted In bloom at any special time, cutting
• back should cease about six weeks sooner.
German Ivy, Manrandia and other climbers for
summer to be cut back.
Hot-beds and frames should be provided to accom-
modate plants where there Is an overplus and when
crowding one another for room.
Insects. Green fly Is liable to trouble Roses, Ver-
benas, etc. Fumigation or evaporating Tobacco Juice,
etc., are the proper preventives-
Orchid houses to be provided with moisture by
sprinkling paths and shutting up early. Always repot
plants requiring It when in a growing state. Shade
from the sun.
Pots and Potting. Shift all plants as they need
more root room. Plants visually do bett«r in new pots
because their pores are open, admitting air to soil and
roots. Keep the pots clean. Old pots after being used
should be thoroughly washed before being brought
into service again.
Primroses Pot the young Double White.and shade.
Requisites. Secure plenty of loamy turf, manure,
refuse, hops, etc., for potting soil.
Shading. The glass over Camellias, Azeleas. Fuch-
sias. Double Primroses, Caladiums, Callas, Fancy
Coleus and Geraniums, Ferns and other plants liable
to spot should be lightly painted with whitewash, or
with naptha and white lead. Paint thus all the blisters
In the gla.ss.
Tuberoses, start bulbs in a warm place.
Verbenas to be propagated now for bedding plants.
FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD.
Berry Patch. Remove the mulch from over the
strawberry plants and place It between the rows.
Prepare the ground well for new beds, and enrich
thoroughly with manure free from weed seeds before
planting. Set plants in rows 3J^ or 4 feet apart, with
at least one foot space between the plants. The rows
for Ra.spberries should be about five feet, and for
Blackberries eight feet apart. The plants may be set
three feet apart In the rows.
Onrrants. To be thoroughly pruned and liberally
manured.
General Directions. Plant vines and shrubs of all
kinds, and small fruits to furnish the family an abund-
ance. Uncover at once Raspberries. Grapes. Black-
berries, etc., that were protected during winter. Re-
pair the damages wrought during the winter by
weather or animals In the orchard. Remove broken
limbs and saw off the stubs close to the trunk smooth-
ing the cut and covering the wound with paint or
liquid grafting wax. Apply clay or cowdung as a
plaster for partly-girdled trees, and try to save those
entirely girdled. by a bridge of grafts between the bark
above and below the injury. The ground for a new
orchard should be prepared as carefully as for Corn.
Grapes. Pruning if omitted until now should at
once be seen to.
Manures. All fruit trees and plants like potash
fertilizers. Few things are equal to unleacheed wood-
aahes as a manure for fruit crops, but where they can-
not be procured at a reasonable rate, the available
manure, whatever that Is, can in many cases be sup-
plemented profitably by applltations of muriate of
pota-shorof kalnlt. Bearing orchards deserve liberal
treatment In this respect, and repay it well.
Peach Trees. Cut back the growth of last year to
form a compact head.
Quinces delight in a rich mellow .soli. Thin out the
wood thoroughly.
Trees as soon as received from the nu»^ery should be
unpacked at once and heeled in until wanted one by
one for planting. If frozen when received, place the
box or package Into the cellar and let the stock thaw
out gradually before unpacking. Trees that appear
shriveled may often be restored by burying bodily In
moist ground for several days.
VEGETABLE GARDEN.
Asparagus. Apply a dressing of nitrate of soda, 200
pounds per acre If you have it. Mellow the soil nicely
by the means usually employed. Begin cutting when
the shoots appear. Be careful In cutting so the crowns
of the plants or smaller shoots below the ground will
not be Injiu"ed.
Beets for table use may be sown as soon as the
ground Is In fit condition. Have rows 15 or 16 inches
apart, firming the soil well over the seed.
Cauliflower. Select rich, moist, mellow ground,
thoroughly prepared, and set plants from cold frame
in rows two feet apart, with eighteen inches space be-
tween the plants.
Celery. Seed should be sown early this month In a
well-protected situation and thoroughly prepared bed.
Soil must be made rich. Firm the soil over the seed
without covering. Give small application of nitrate
of soda during early growth. Thin the plants early
and thoroughly.
Onltivation- The wheel-hoe should be brought into
use as soon as the rows of close-planted early vege-
tables can be discovered by a sharp eye. A flue steel
rake Is also a tool admirably adapted to preventing
the growth of weeds.
Hot-beds should be very carefully aired, watered
and protected. Allow for the admittance of a little
air during the night-time when the weather is mild.
Cold frames can usually be left entirely uncovered
from now on.
Insects. Flea beetles have In recent years been very
destructive to our young Cabbage, Radish and Turnip
plants. Tobacco dust applied freely will usually drive
the pest away. Plaster flavored with Paris green, or
slug shot will also help In most cases. Lime and lime
water freely applied will dispose of the Radish, Cab-
bage and Onion maggot.
Onions. Sow seed, and set plants as early as the
ground Is In good working order. The soU should be
made very rich.
Parsnip. Sow fresh seed only in well-prepared soil.
Radishes- From now on sow seed every two weeks
for succession.
Sweet Herbs. Sow now for later transplanting
Sage, Thyme and Sweet Marjoram.
Sweet Potatoes should be started in good bottom
heat, to have plants ready in early June.
Tomatoes. Plants started In hot-bed should be
transplanted once or twice, and at last transferred to
cold frame to harden off sufflclently before planting
out. The essential point is to give each plant its
proper allowance of space to make It stocky and sturdy.
Tools should be Inspected at once, and repaired
where necessary. If new tools have to be purchased,
order them without delay, else you may not have them
just at the time when most needed.
FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER
GLASS.
Figs In tubs or pots, fruit of which Is now swelling
up, tt) be given liquid manure twice a week. Stop
•Strong growing shoots at the fifth leaf.
Grapes. When the fruit In early houses begins to
col<ir. give air fiecly, and have the ventilators open
a little at the top during mild nights. Sprinkle
the fi<»or, but do not otherwise syringe for the present.
New vines may be planted now.
Lettuce. If very early Lettuce Is wanted, wintered
plants may now be taken from cold frame and planted
out In hot-bed. Sow seed for succession. Tennlsball
or Boston Market, a strain of the former, are usually
selected for forcing.
Peaches will now be swelling fast, and the last thin-
ning should be done without delay. Water thorough-
ly at the ror)ts, and use manure water freely until
fruit shows color. Syringe twice a day.
Pines that are fruiting should have liquid manure
preferably warm and weak. Syringe and ventllatet
freely.
Strawberries In heat should be gradually hardened
when done fruiting, and before removing them outside
If the plants are required for new beds.
THE POULTRY YARD.
Boors and windows in poultry houses should
now be thrown wide open.
Money Well Spent< An extra dollar or two
for a superior breeding bird.
Air-slacked lime should be freely scattered over
the Honrs ot the hen houses to remove unpleas-
ant od()rs.
One Dollar a Year. That is just about what i*
costs to keep one hen when all the food has to be
purchased.
A Good Absorbent. Dry earth absorbs foul
g'asses, and is very useful about the poultry
house generally.
No Dirty Eggs Wanted. Keep the nests well
supplied with clean litter, and renew this often.
It pays to send only bright clean eggs to naarket.
Spraying with Kerosene. This is as necessary
in the i>oultry house, to keep down vermin, as is
spraying in the orchard to destroy the codlin.
A Oood Bule. Give good food, pure water,
plenty of exercise, free ventilation and keep the
poultry houses clean, dry and comfortable.—
Poultry Monthly.
Early Pallets. To raise pullets that will begin
to lay in early fall, and prove profitable next
winter, set eggs of good breeds without delay.
Then take extra care of the chicks.
Black Langshans. No better breed for egg
production, both summer and winter, is known
to us. They are also large and handsome. The
only thing against them is their color.
Wheat for Chicks. There is no better grain
for laying hens, nor better food for growing
chicks than whole Wheat. Little chicks, when
only a few days old, soon learn to eat it, and
keep well on this as an exclusive diet besides
what they pick up.
Nest-Egg Gourde. They very much resemble
the genuine eggs, and being very light in weight,
there is less liability of breakage of eggs laid, as
is often the case when they roll against glass
eggs. Stale eggs should never be used as nest
eggs.— Poultry Bulletin.
Insect Powder. The breeder who makes it a
practice to dust fresh insect powder, buhach
preferred, thoroughly through the plumage of
the setting hen, a day or two before the eggs
hatch, repeating the operation after the lapse of
a day, will not see his chicks killed by lice.
Eggs for Hatching. The first batch of eggs
laid in spring is generally the best for hatching,
but the first laid by pullets should not be set.
After a hen has j.ru(iuced. say thirty or forty
eggs in succession, the system becomes somewhat
enfeebled and the eggs are more or less wanting
in vitality.
Linseed Meal. When the flock appears droopy
and seems to lose appetite, it may restore the
birds to health, by giving linseed meal in the
soft food once a day. A gill of linseed meal to
ten hens is sufficient. It .should not be used as a
regular diet. Given twice a week, it is excellent,
and if mixed with bran it will cause the bran to
adhere and form a crumbly mess.— Mirror and
Farmer.
To Set Hens. Set them on the ground if possi-
ble. The eggs will hatch best. Don't give any
hen more than thirteen eggs for a setting. Be
careful to mark the eggs, for other hens are apt
to lay in the nest with your sitter, and unless the
eggs are properly marked, you might not be able
to identify the new eggs. You understand that
eggs laid to a sitting hen must be promptly re-
moved.—California Patron.
Feeding Chicks. The advice to feed chicks on
hard-boiled eggs is wrong. No food should be
given until the second day, when crumbled,
hard-boiled eggs may be allowed, but after the
second or third day eggs should be avoided, as
they will cause bowel disease. Eggs should then
be given only once a week. As a regular portion
of the diet they are too concentrated, and tend
to cause constipation.— M. and F.
l62
POPULAR GARDENING.
April,
Correspondents are urged to anticipate the season in pre-
senting questions. To ask, for instance, on April 16 or 20
whdt Peas had best be sown, oould brino no answer in
the May issue, and none before June, when the answer
would be unseasonable. Questions received before the lith
of any month stand a good chance of being answered in the
m^t paper. Sot more than three questions should be sent
at one time. Answers to questions bearing on the com
parative tnilue of implements, etc., offered by different
dealers must not be expected, yeither can we promise to
comply with the request sometimes made to "please answer
by mail." Inquiries appearing without name belong to the
name next following .
Belies to Inquiries are earnestly requested from our
readers. In anstoering such give the numt>er, your
locality aTtd name, the latter not for publication, unless
you desire. Write only on one aide of the paper.
17:?0. Forcing House. Give plan of house for forcing
Tomatoes on a large scale Is bottom heat needed ?
1731. Lombard Plum. Is it a good variety for pro.
fit ?— C. W. M.. Canada.
1732. Bnhach Manufacturers. What is the name
and address of parties in California who raise buhach ?
— Wm. G. v.. Mich.
1735. Wash for Borers. WiU Mr. Hale's wash for
grubs in Peach trees also kill the grubs in Quince
trees?— J. B. H., Pa
17JU. Treatment of Berry Plants. Plants and Grape
vines received from nursery' in barrels. How man-
aged until planting time ?— J. D. M.. East Berne, N. 1".
1?35. Remedy for Corn Worms. They usually de-
stroy half of our Eaxlv Cory Sweet Corn.— F. A. J.,
Fort Scott, Kans.
1736. Mariana Plum from Cuttings. How prepared
and planted ?
1737. Hydrangea Paniculata. How propagated,
and in what soil ?— S. H. L.
I7.is. Cabbage Seed. How grown and disposed of?
R. S. T., Ohio.
ir39. Geraniums not Blooming. Plants put in
greenhouse last fall, growing thriftily. What can be
done for them ?
1740. Roses in G-reenhouse. Water, soil and other
conditions favorable, yet they make imperfect buds
and wilted leaves.
1741. Roses after Forcing. Should sash be taken off
where Roses have been forced all winter, or should
they be kept dry and at rest during Summer ?—ama.
TEUR, Beaver, Pa.
1742. Raising Broom Corn. Wanted the address of
broom manufacturers to make contract for raising
broom corn.— J. E. E.. Ord Valley, Neb.
1743. Keeping Grapes to Mid-winter. What is best
method ? Is ice necessary, and should fruit remain on
the vines after maturity ?— E. P. F., Sterling, Kan.
1744. Propagating Blackberries. How done from
root cuttings, and how from tops ?— F. O. M.,Ioica.
1745. Propagating Clematis. How best done?— P.
& Co., Portland, Oregon.
1746. Rubber Tree Cnttings. Will they grow with-
out bottom heat? If so how managed?— L. D. C. De-
troit. Jtich.
1747. Quince Borer. Does it attack dwarf Pear
trees?— E. F. C Ohio.
174S. Shrubs for Wisconsin. Are Rosa canina,
Ailanthus and Weeping Florida Dogwood hardy here,
where mercury sometimes runs down to 30* below zero?
Mks. J. L. J.
1749. Pruning Roses. When is the right time for
It ?— G. W. B., Ihitledge. Pa.
lloi). Growing Mignonette. Please tell about soil,
when and how to plant, whether in light or shade. I
want the sweetest kind, nothing fancy.— Mrs. I. J. S.
Flushing, L. I.
1751. Budding and Grafting Roses. When is the
right time, and how done ?— A. F., New Orleans, La.
1752. Apple Bark Louse. How best treated ?— E. P.
R., .Sidney, Ohio.
1753. Fish Geraniums not Blooming. They grow
luxuriantly In light rich soil, with the morning sun?
Mrs. C. G. McL., ia.
1754. Iron lor Fruit Trees. Are iron shavings from
machinist's lathe of benefit for fruit trees ?— H. A. H.,
Medina, O.
1755. Blood for Vegetables. Quantity of blood in
barrels. What should I mix with It to use for garden ?
1756. Grape for Market What kind is best to plant
on northern shore of Lake Ontario?— J. B. O., Prince
Edwards Co., Ont.
1757. Spraying Fruit Trees. Will farmers have to
reckon with this as a nece.s.sarv Item in their labor ac-
cotmt ?— J. B., Salem, O.
1758. Black Oalla aram. Where can 1 obtain one ?
— C. H. B., Neb.
1759. Prolific Poultry. What breed lays the most
eggs?
Iim. Rural Books. What book can you recommend
on poultry keeping, fruit growing, landscape garden-
ing, market garileulng, and others helpful to an ama-
teur?—F. W. S., St. Louis, Mo.
1761. Mulberry Tree not Fruiting. Blossoms freely.
Shall I graft it over, or cut it down ?— J, 51., Bamilton,
Ont.
1762. Canada Ashes. Can be had at $17 per ton
here. Are they worth it for fruit trees and small
fruits ?— P. H. B., New Jersey.
17K!. Tools ior Digging Root Crops. What tools
can you recommend ?— H. S., Fayette Co., Iowa.
1764. Rural Books. What books can you recom-
mend on horses, cows, market gardening, and flower
culture?- J. M. N.. Baltimore, M. D.
1765. Lilies in Pots. Should Auratum, Candldums.
Harrissi and others remain In window, or taken out in
air and sunshine ?
1766. Applying Wood Ashes. Should I mix them
with soil first, or apply directly on top to Strawberries
and in flower border ?
1767. Budding Roses. To make my Marechal Niel
bloom, in what stock should it be put?— Mrs. B., Win-
field, Kans.
176S, Nitrate of Soda. Is it good for lawns? And
what other fertilizer should be used with it ?— Mrs. R
S. H., Tenn.
1769, Magnolia Seed. Does it germinate the same
season ?— E. H., Leroy, .V, 5".
177U. Strawberries in Pear Orchard. Are they de-
trimental to the Pear trees?— S. S. ran West, Ohio.
1771. Euphorbia Splendens. What treatment is
required to make a large thrifty plant bloom ?
1773. Prizetaker Onion. Where can seed be obtain-
ed ?-G. E. B.
1773. Packing Vegetables. How are Lettuce, Celery,
Radishes. Greens, etc., packed tor shipment?— B. E. H.
1774. Book on Flowers. What work, or monthly
magazine treat,s on the cultivation of annuals, bedding
plants and the like, for amateur's uses ?— Miss K. J. T.
1775. Garden Manures. Is blood good for garden
crops, also can new sheep manure be safely used in the
drills or rows for Celery !'— W. L. H.
1776. Planting Dahlia. Should the bulbs be separa'
ted, or planted just as taken up?— S. E. P.
1778. Spanish Chestnut. Will this do all right, or
do you advise grafting it to Paragon? •
177S. Grafting English Walnuts. Can this be done
successfully on White Walnut iButtemut) ?
1779. Currant as Tree. Is It better grown as tree
or bush ?— Wm. C, Steuben Co.. N. Y.
17S0. Rules for Farmer's Club. How are the con.
stitution and by-laws drawn up?— C. W, L.
REPLIES TO INQUIRIES.
1,706. Sizing for Hotbed Sash. For three
sashes of usual size get one yuart of linseed oil.
one pint of lime water, yolks of fourteen eggs,
and the whites of four eggs. Then boil oil and
lime water together, remove from the Are, and
after a few minutes stirring add the beaten eggs,
stirring again until all is thoroughly mixed.
The muslin being tacked on the frames, is paint-
ed over with two coates of this mixture, and
when dry will be ready for use.— E. A. W., Me.
L637. Dwarf Pear Orchard. My experience is
many varieties of Pears thrive better and are
more satisfactory and profitable as dwarfs than
as standards. Then it is much easier to pick the
fruit from a low dwarf tree, than a tall standard;
while the fruit is just as large and fine, and sells
just as well in the market. Some of the popular
a warts with me, are Osborn's .Summer. Bartlett.
L luise Bonne, and Duchess; ripening in the order
named. If properly managed these sorts be-
come in a few years "dwarf standards," trees
which with me are the most satisfactory of any.
— T. E. Goodrich, Illinois.
1,736. Hariana Pltun from Cattings. The
proper plan is to take the cuttings from the
trees late in the fall, cut them six to eight inches
in length, sloping at the base close to an eye, and
at right angles with the eye or bud, and above a
bud at top one-half inch. It should be of strong
wood of the same season's growth, but if an inch
or two of the two year wood is left at the bottom
it will not lie amiss. Tie the cuttings in bundles
of one hundred and bury them upright with
three inches of sand or meUow earth on top.
Bear in mind that this must be where the drain-
age is good, or they will spoil. In this condition
leave them until spring when the ground begins
to get warm, then take them up, invert the bun-
dles, and put them back in the same place. In
this position the buts will be in a warmer tem-
perature than the tops, and will callous while
the buds below will remain nearly dormant.
They should be examined occasionally, and as
soon as well calloused, with little root points,
coming out, they should be set out in
nursery rows for budding the following summer
or for grafting the next spring. But as the in-
quirer cannot now follow the above instructions
tor this season, the next best thing he can do is
to cut them as described as soon as the buds
begin to swell, and plant them at once, making
the ground firm about them. I never saw a
better strike of Quince cuttings than once when
the trimming was done when the buds were
bursting, and the cuttings set at once. The same
with a lot of Pyrus Japonica cuttings. The wood
seems to be full of life, and if the weather be at
all favorable they go right ahead. This Mariana
Plum, while to my notion of but little use here
for its fruit; will be a boon to the nurserymen,
and Plum growers as a stock to grow the finer
varieties upon. It has also been used for the
Peach successfully. The Stark Bros., this state,
grow it by the hundreds of thousands, as a supe-
rior stock for Plum, Apricot and Peach.— S. Mil-
ler, Montgomery Co., Mo.
1,696. Tree Fruits for Ohio, I think the fol-
lowing will be about the best : Pears : Bartlett,
Duchess, Anjou, Lawrence; Plums: Lombardi
Bradshaw, Jefferson; Cherries: Early Richmond;
Quince: Orange; Grapes: Concord and Worden.
I would plant two-third Pear and Plum, one-
third Cherries, Quince and Grapes. Peach trees
could be planted between the other fruit trees.—
E. H. OUSHMAN.
1,~31. Lombard Plum. This is one of the very
best and most reliable Plums for market, or
almost any other purpose. Mr. S. D. Willard says
it takes the place among Plums that Concord
occupies among the Grapes, or the Baldwin
among Apples. He also names it as one among
the best six Plums for market, the others being
Bradshaw, Gueii, Hudson River Purple Egg,
Peter's Yellow Gage, toe's Golden Drop.
1,7.33. Wash for Borers, AU the common
borers that infest our fruit trees, as Pears,
Peaches, Apples, Quinces, etc., can be kept off
by strong alkaline washes or mechanical obstruc-
tions around the only part of the trees where
they can enter, namely near the ground where
the bark is soft. When they have once found an
entrance, however, washes alone will not do.
They will have to be cut out with a sharp knife,
or killed by introducing a phable wire into the
cavity.— H. W. E.
1.734. Treatment of Berry Plants. Berry
plants. Grape vines, and other nursery stock
arriving in boxes or barrels ahead of the time
that they can be planted out, should be at once
unpacked, and put in a cellar or other cool dark
place, spread out to keep them from heating or
decay, and their roots covered with moist sand,
soil or moss. Leave there until planting time.—
H W. E.
1.735. Bemedy for Com or Boll Worm. This
insect is double-brooded. The first brood attacks
the earliest varieties, the second brood the latest.
The intermediate crop usually escapes. In order
to protect your early Cory Corn, you will ha^<e
to examine it frequently, to pick off the worms
and crush them. This will also reduce the later
attacks. Early Cory can also be grown free
from the insects' attacks by planting it very
late, so as to have it come after the first brood of
the Corn worm is gone.
1,715. Large Prolific Strawberry. Fruits
growers have long been looking for a .Strawberry
as large as Sharpless and as productive as Cres-
cent. We have found it in Bubach No. 5. This
variety makes large plants, and they do not mat
the ground thickly. We consider it fully as pro-
ductive as Crescent. In firmness, it ranks with
Crescent. The Color is rather light, like the
Sharpless, its size is its chief attraction. Although
not so large as Bubach, with us, the Warfield No.
-' is .W per cent larger than Crescent, more pro-
ductive and better colored. It is also very firm,
a good shipping beriy like Wilson; which it re-
sembles in color and shape. This last is very
important, for being a pistillate, some perfect,
flowered variety must be grown near; and if
Wilson is used as such, both may be picked in the
same basket— and sell as one variety.— L. J. F.
1.717. Strawberry Seedlinifs. Our plan in
growing seedUng Strawberries, and which works
well, is this : Dead ripe berries are selected, and
all the juice squeezed out. The pulp and seeds
are mixed with dry soil and sown in a box of
rich earth. The seeds should be covered thinly
by sifting fine earth over them. The box should
be placed in the shade and the earth sprinkled
everyday. When the seedlings begin to come up
which will be in about a month, the box should
be brought to the light, so as to gradually ex-
fose the young seedlings to the rays of the sun.
n a few weeks, the seedlings may be transplant-
ed into boxes, two inches apart. When winter
comes on, the young plants are given thorough
protection. In the spring, they are transplanted
same as other Strawberry plants; and all runners
kept off till the plants bear, which will be the
following year.— L. J. F.\r.mer.
l.eni. Small Frnit Tarieties. The hardiest
varieties only are adapted to the climate of Min-
nesota. C>f Strawberries, we recommend, Wil-
son, Warfield No.-, Bubach and Jessie; Rasp-
berries: Cuthbert and Turner for red, Tyler and
Ohio for black; Blackberries: Stone's Hardy and
Snyder; Currants: Fay's Prolific. Red Dutch and
White Grape ; Gooseberries : Downing and
Houghton.— L. J. Farmee.
1,717. Strawberry Seedlings, When gather-
ing our Strawberries last season, a few fine
specimens were saved with the intention of
separating the seed and sowing in a few days
but they were forgotten till about a month after-
wards when they were found all dried up. I
rubbed them up between the fingers to separate
the seeds. Then sowed them in a box. covering
it about one-eight inch deep. Placed box in cold
frame and covered with cloth frame. Seed came
up thickly in a few days and was soon large
enough to transplant, when they were set in the
ground in cold frame there to remain till spring
when they will again be transplanted, to where
they are to fruit.— W. C. Jennison.
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
163
1,771. Frizetaker Onion. True seed can be
had of William Heury Maule, Philadelphia, Pa.,
or Peter Hendei-9on \- fc, Cortlandt street, New
Vork City.
1,770. Spanish Chestnut. We would greatly
prefer the Parajronto the averagre Spanish Chest-
nut, even to the N umbo, and this is yet the best
among them, for our uses. It also is doubtful
whether the Spanish Chestnut will prove hardy
in Steuben Co., N. Y.. unless in a very protected
situation. No harm in trying it, however. The
Pai"ag(in. when gn\fted into the top of Spanish
and perhaps other kinds of Chestnut, has some-
times a baa habit of suddenly wilting and dying.
Whether this can be obviated by grafting near
the ground or not, we dt) not know. — H. W. E.
i. 1,777. Grafting English Walnuts. The En-
glish Walnut has been successfully grafted on
Black Walnut, Hickory and Butternut, but it is
a difficult operation at best, and will fail in nine-
teen cases where it succeeds once.
1,878. Currant as Tree, The only safe way of
growing the Current is as a bush. It can be
trimmed to single stem, and grown as tree, but
it is never satisfactory. The same may be said
of the Gooseberry, although the European varie-
ties are usually grown so at their nome, and
ordinarily with best results.
1,697. Mildew on Tomatoes. I suggest the
instant removal and destruction of all plants
showing any indications of the ailment.— C. E. P.
'1,705. Protecting Strawberries from Ornbs.
There is no wash, nor do I know of any device
that will keep the white grub from destroying
Strawberry plants.— C. E. P.
1,701. Bark Lice on Pear Trees. Dissolve two
ounces of Gisherts Compound, Tobacco soap
or carbolic soap in a gallon of water, and apply
with a paint brush to all infested parts. One, or
at the most two applications will be sufBcient.—
Chas. E. Parnei.l.
1,6!>4. Zonal Beraniums. The reason why the
leaves of your Zonal Geraniums turned yellow
was because you do not water them thoroughly,
or else you permitted them to become very dry
at the roots bef^^re watering.- C. E. P.
1,791. Planting Early Crops. To answer this
query as fully and as properly as its importance
demands, would re<juire more space than could
well be spared in this department. You should
procure a copy of Henderson's Gardening for
Front and carefully follow the directions con-
tained therein.- CHA.S. E. Pahnell.
1,488. Landscape Gardening. Scott's " Beau-
tiful Homes " is an excellent work on the subject.
—Chas. E. P.
1,490. Crintim Culture. To cultivate and bloom
the Crinums to perfection, they should be given
a compost composed of two-thirds turfy loam,
one-third well-decayed manure, and a good
sprinkling of sharp sand. Good drainage is also
indispensable. .\s the different species are ever-
green, they do best when grown continually in
[lots, onlv shifting into larger ones as the others
become tilled with roots, for the more root room
the plants have, the larger and Dner will be the
Howers When the plants are growing rapidly,
liquid manure can be given occa.-'sionally to good
advantage.— C. E. P.
1.492. Transplanting Large Trees. Yes, large
trees can be transplanted, but I do not think that
it would do your Seckel Pear tree any good to
remove it. With the exception of the Apple my
experience in transplanting large fruit trees has
been so unsatisfactory that I would not ad^^se
the attempt.— C. E. P.
1.493. Blackberry Disease. Cut out and burn
all infested parts as soon as noticed.— C. E. P.
1,498. Begonias and Abutilons, Begonias
should be taken up and potted about the first of
September. They should be placed inside about
the middle of the month. Abutilons can be taken
up later, but should be inside before cool weather
sets in. This refers to plants that are grown for
winter blooming.— C. E. P.
1,.503. Planting Baspberries, If the plants are
large and well rooted, they can be planted in the
fall. Otherwise I would wait until spring.— C.E.P.
1,503. Manuring Blackberries. A shovelful
of good manure applied at once will l)eneflt next
year's crop materially. As you describe your
land as being rather thin, I would double the
quantity if possible.— P.
1,.509. Best Potato. For home use Early Ohio
and White Star. They are also excellent market
sorts. In this vicinity the Early Rose is also very
extensively grown as a market variety.— C. E. P.
1,B80. Cabbage Lice, An application of Hen-
derson's Insect Death Powder will destroy them;
so will an application of Tobacco soap, Fir Tree
oil or Cole's Insect Destroyer.— C. E. Parnell.
1,681. Setting Asparagus Plants, They can
be planted whenever the ground is in a proper
condition. In light soils they can be planted at
any time from fall to spring, but for heavy soils
1 would wait until spring.— C E. Parnell.
1,683. Fertilizer for Celery. An application of
Mapes Vegetable Manure will be found beneficial.
Apply when hoeing, scattering well and working
in around the plants and along the rows. Or
scatter in the rows and work in thoroughly be-
fore setting out the plants.— Chas. E. Parnbll.
1,686. Plum Bot. Gathering and destroying
all infested specimens is said to keep this pest in
check.
1,625. Boses from England, Roses can be sent
from England by mail suci'essfuUy when the
plants are in a state of rest.— C. E. P.
1,622. French Cannae It is said that they are
crosses between C. Ehemanni-gladioliflora, aud
the best of the common smaller-flowered varie-
ties.—P.
1,769. Strawberries in Pear Orchard. It is a
good rule to work an orchard tor tree fruit only,
and not for other crops, especially cereals, ex-
cept only during the first few years after trees
are set. Even then only hoed crops, vegetables,
small fruits, etc., should be planted. The trees
at that period do not occupy all the space, and
do not need all the fertility of the soil, while the
cultivation keeps down weed growth, and other-
wise benefits the trees as well the hoed crops.
Where manures are used as abundantly as re-
quired for the crops named, we would not fear
damage to the young trees by this management,
but rather expect a beneBcial efi'ect. We would
not hesitate to plant rows of Strawberries be-
tween rows of standard Pear trees, no more
than of Apple trees or Peaches. Just as soon as
the trees commence to bear fruit, however, the
whole area should be given up to them entirely.
Double cropping the orchard does not usually
pay. Dwarf Pears, being planted very close,
and reaching out quite far with their shallow-
feeding roots, need the entire space of the
ground almost from the day they are planted,
and consequently it would not be a good prac-
tice to crop the orchard very closely otherwise,
especially not with the over-hungry and ex-
haustive Strawberry plants. If done at all, it is
admissible only for a year or two, setting a
single row of plants between each two rows of
trees, and applying the required plant-foods—
chiefly potjisn and phospneric acid— in very
generous rations — H. W. E
1.766. Applying Wood Ashes. These can be
applied as a top dressing to be raked or hoed in
if so desired, for almost any crop, and at almost
any time. For Strawberries we would put them
on the ground broadcast, or along the rows.
The plants will be sure to get the benefit of their
application. For flowering plants apply as a top
dressing, although, we believe, a nitrogenous
fertilizer would give better results.
1.767. Nitrate of Soda for Lawns, Whether a
dressing of nitrate of soda will be of much ben-
efit to lawns depends very much on the character
of the soil, and the time of application. Used
very early in spring, even on rich soil, it may
bring out an earlier growth, and a richer, velvety
color. Applied later in the season on soil well
supplied with fertilizer (stable compost), the
effect may be very slight. We shall make some
experiments with nitrate of soda on the lawn at
once— H. W. E.
1,764. Tools for Digging Boot Crops. There is
usually some difficulty encountered in digging
Carrots and Parsnips when these have grown
very long into the ground. We know of no
l>etter way of digging these crops thau by i>low-
ing a furrow away from one side of each row,
and close to it, thus almost laying the roots bare
on one side. Then with a spade or spading fork
pry them out or loose from the other side, and
pull up by hand.— H. W. E.
1,774. Garden Manure, Blood is a most excel-
lent fertilizer for garden crops, being rich in
just the element of plant food (nitrogen) which
is needed more than any other for giving us
thrift, luxuriance, and succuleney. In Europe
the blood as it comes from the slaughter houses
is often dtied, then powdered, and thus fitted for
broadcast application. W here blood can be ob-
tained from slaughter houses in quantities, we
would recommend a liberal use for gardens. It
can be composted by sandwiching thin layers of
it between layers of fresh stable manure, muck,
sods, soil, etc., always covering the heaps over
with soil, muck or other safe absorl)ent, or mix-
ing small quantities of kainit with the mass, in
order to prevent the escape of ammonia. Blood
is almost exactly the same as flesh in composition,
and either of them if composted as suggested,
will within a few months give you a garden fer-
tilizer of the very best quality. Sheep manure is
also fine for vegetables, but we preter to have
this as well as all other manures for the garden,
well composted before applying it. If fine and
free from coarse litter, however, you need not be
afraid of using it freely, both broadcast to be
raked, harrowed, or hoedin,and in hills and drills.
1653. Early Blackberry, The Snyder Black-
berry is the best well tested variety we know.
It is early, entirely hardy, and enormously pro-
ductive with us. The size increases by heroic
pruning.
1,738. Growing Cabbage Seed. The best suc-
cess in growing Cabbages we ever had was with
seed from Long Island and from Puget sound.
One of our exchanges tells about the industry
in Long Island as follows : Contracts for the
seed are made in advance with seedsmen or their
representatives, stipulating the variety to be
grown and the price to be paid for the seed. The
seed is sown about the 20th of June, and they
aim to set out the plants between Aug. 1 and 10,
in rows three feet apart, about 10,000 to the acre.
The grower aims to have the Cabbage grow a
small, soft head, not sufficiently large for table
use. About the first of November, before freez-
ing weather, the Cabbage is taken up by the
roots and prepared for wintering. To do this, a
wide and deep furrow is oiiened by plowing both
ways in it. In this furrow the Cabbages are
compactly set, about three abreast, and the earth
thrown against them with the plow, covering
them as nearly as possible. The work is finished
by hand with the snovel. As soon as the ground
can be worked in the spring the Cabbages are
taken out of the trenches and set out, about two
and one-half by four feet, according to variety.
To facilitate the starting of the seed stalk, the
head of the Cabbage is generally gashed with a
knife. About the 20th of July tne seed is ready
for harvesting. The seed stalk is cut off, and
allowed to lie upon the ground for a few days
before it is drawn in. The shelving of the wagon
is lined with canvas to prevent wasting of seed,
very much of which is shelled out in the process
of loading;. It is then taken to the barn fioor,
where a slight flailing finishes the work, and the
seed is cleaned with a common fanning mill.
The crop varies largely, running between 150
and 800 pounds to the acre as extremes, and the
farmers realize from 40 to 60 cents per pound. It
is estimated that about 200,000 pounds are an-
nually raised in this part of Long Island.
1,759. Prolific Poultry, We know of no breed
of fowls that will lay more eggs than the Leg-
horns, either white or brown. The Polish and
Spanish breeds are also most excellent layers,
but all these are usually better summer than
winter layers. In localities where the winters
are usually very cold, we would prefer a hardier
breed, and our experience leads us to put the
Black Langshans ahead of any other breed for
the production of eggs the year round.— H.W.E.
1,757. Spraying Fruit Trees, This is an item
with which everyone who attempts to raise tree
fruits for market (and perhaps for home use also)
will have to reckon. It has come to this that we
have only the choice between spraying the trees,
or seeing our fruit destroyed or badly damaged
by insects.— H. W. E.
l,75;j. Apple Bark Louse, This is the same in-
sect which also attacks Pears, etc. Remedies
were suggested on page 141 ( March No,) which
see.— H. W. E.
1,690. Book on Fruit and Poultry. I have
read most of the books pertaining to small fruit
culture and 1 know of none equal to Roe's "Suc-
cess with Small Fruits." It may be ordered of
Dodd, Mead & Co., through your bookstore, and
costs $2.00.— L. J. P.
1,762. Canada Ashes, Whether Canada uii-
leached wood ashes are worth $17.00 delivered in
Hammonton, N. J., depends entirely on their
per centage of phosphoric acid and potash. A
good average sample contains about six percent,
of the latter, and two per cent, of the former,
or per ton 120 lbs. of potash worth at regular
schedule rates $7.20, and 40 lbs. of phosphoric acid
worth $3.20; so that the chemical value of one
ton might be estimated at $10.40. If the cost of
handling, shipping to Hammonton, etc., are
added to this, the probability is that the $17.00
per ton would not be far out of the way. It should
be bom in mind also that wood ashes are one of
the very best fertilizers for bush and tree fruits,
we might say, are without a peer, and that their
agricultural value is much higher than analysis
indicates. On the other hand it is true that many
samples of the Canada ashes nowadays do not
show as high a per centage of potash and phos-
phoric acid as before mentiond. In that case
$17.00 is a pretty good price to pay for the ferti-
lizer. At least we would look around for cheaper
plant foods first before investing in Canada
ashes. Mr. S. D. Willard before the last meeting
of the W. N. Y. Horticultural Society stated
that his late experience with such ashes was far
from being satisfactory, owing to the low grade
which had been palmed off on him. The best
advice we might give to our subscriber in Ham-
monton, buy only on guaranteed analysis or to
forward a sample of the article to the N. J. Ag-
ricultural Experiment Station of New Bruns-
wick, with the request to have it analyzed. If it
contains at least si.x per cent, potash, and two
per cent, phosphoric acid, you can afford to pay
I17.0O a ton for it ; otherwise not.— H. W. B.
908. Blanching Celery, No material on the
whole, has been found so satisfactory as earth.
Drain tiles and paper answer well early in the
season It is unnecessary to tie the stems to-
gether in using earth, provided they are held
firmly together with the left hand, while the
earth is placed about them with the right.
164
POPULAR GARDENING.
April,
1,626, Tariecrated PittoBporum Tobira. If the
pots are well filled with roots, occasional appli-
cations of manure water are decidedly beneficial.
— C. E. P.
1.709. Black Leaves on Orange Treei. Dissolve
two ounces of whale oil soap in a gallon of water,
and spray or syringe the tree thoroughly with a
part of the solution. In two or three hours after-
wards the black can be readily washed off with
the remainder of the solution, using a soft sponge:
this should not be done, however, when the trees
are growing or are In bloom. —Chas. E. Parnei,!,.
1,179. Rules for Farmers' Club. We pubUsh in
the following the I'onstitution and By-laws of the
"Western New York Horticultural Society, one of
the most noted and successful of all such asso-
ciations. The te\t can easily be altered to fit any
organization of this kind, agricultural as well as
horticultural. The rules are as follows: Consti-
tution. Article I.— This Association shall be
entitled the Western New York Horticultural
Society, and its object shall be the advancement
of the Science of Pomology, and the Art of Fruit
Culture generally. Art. 11.— It shall embrace in
its sphere of operation the Counties of Chautau-
qua, Erie, Niagara, Cattaraugus, Orleans, Gene-
see, Allegany, Monroe, Livingston, Steuben, On-
tario, Wayne, Yates, Seneca, Chemung, Tomp-
kins, Cayuga, Oswego, Tioga, Onondaga and
Cortland. Art. III.— Any person may become a
member of this Society by paying into the treas-
ury the sum of one dollar. The payment of ten
dollars or more at one time, will constitute a life
membership. Art. IV.— Its oflicers shall consist
of a President, Vice-President, a Secretary and
Treasurer, all of whom shall be elected annually
by ballot. Art. V.— The following standing com-
mittees shall be ai)pointed annually: An Execu-
tive Committee, a Committee on Nomenclature,
a Committee on American Fruits, and a Com-
mittee on Foieign Fruits, to consist of five mem-
bers each, and a General Fruit Committee, to
consist of three members from each county rep-
resented in the Society, with a General Chairman
of the whole. Art, VI.— The officers of the
Society, together with the E.xecuti ve ) 'ommittee,
shall constitute the Council, which shall have the
general management of the affairs of the Society
during its recess, and of which seven members,
including the President or one of the Vice-Presi-
dents, shall form a quonim for the transaction
of business. Art. VII.— This constitution may
be amended by a vote of two-thirds of the mem-
bers present at any regular meeting, notice of
the proposed amendment having been previously
given. Hy-Laws. ].— The C'ommittee on No-
menclature shall collate and decide the standard
and synonymous namesiof all fruits known to the
Society, with tin- authorities for each, and report,
so far as piiu-tiralile, at each regular meeting.
2. — The Committee on American Fruits and
Foreign Fruits shall, in their respective depart-
ments, examine, test and classify such new fruits
as may, in a natural state, come under their
notice, and report at each regular n)eeting. The
Committee on American Fruits will, in the con-
sideration of new seedlings, be fruiiled liy the
rules of Pomology, as adopted bv tlic .New York
State Agricultural Society. 3. — The ( 'eutral Fruit
Committee shall carefully and thmuuL'hly inves-
tigate the subject of Fruit Cullurc in general.
Each local committee of three shall colli'ct such
useful and interesting information in relation to
the subject as may be in their power and embody
the same in a monthly report, to be made to the
General Chairman, such report to be by him ex-
amined and embodied in his annual or semi-
annual repoi-t. 4.— The annual mooting of the
Society shall bo hold on the loiiith Wodnosday in
Januarj' of oaoh yoar, at suoh I'laoo as tlto Coun-
cil may apimint. at which tlnio the aimualoloction
ofoSBcers shall be held, anil exhibition and dis-
cussion of fruits take place, and other business
be transacted, h. — Other meetings may be con-
vened by the Council, at such time and place as
they may appoint, fi.— No member who is in
arrears for dues shall be eligible t(i any office, or
serv^e on any Standing Comniittoo: and any mem-
ber who shall neglect to pa.\' his duos shall cease
to enjoy the privileges of meuiliorship.
1.661. Bulbs for Second Blooming. Tulips,
when planted out in beds, will flower year after
year, and if planted six to eight inches deep,
summer bedding plants ma.v be planted over
them, and when these are taken up in September,
a good top dressing of manure apiilied. ^fa^cis-
sus and Hyacinths likewise. Froesias increase
rapidly and flower every year when ripened off
carefully, and not allowed to become dry until
the leaves turn yellow.— E. O. O.
1.662. Ornithogalum Arabicum. Though a
beautiful plant when in lilocmi this will never
become popular, owiug to its having a way of its
own about flowering. Under the best ot treat-
ment they will rarely flower more than (mce in
three years. Certainly not a good characteristic
for a candidate for popularity. — E. O. O.
1,638. Bentzia gracilis. There is only one re-
quisite to success with Deutzia gracilis as a forc-
ing plant, that is, to secure good growth the
previous season by liberal applications of water
or liquid manure if thoy aio ostabli^hoil already;
if not, plant in rich .soil, ami store in tall Liefore
there is danger of frost. Few plants force easier
or give better returns.— E. O. Okpet.
Protecting Chrysanthemums in
Pots.
JOHN LANE, cmcAQO, ILL.
In growing Chrysanthemtims in pots out-
floors tlie pots should be protected from the
burning sun. Pots plunged to the rim in
the ground do well except in wet weather,
too much rain doing injury, causing the
finer roots to rot. Pots not plunged, simply
setting on the ground, need much care and
frequent watering, the sun burns the roots
near the sides, and the only live roots are
found at the bottom. Partly plunging the
pot makes it less liable to be injured by
either rain or sun, while the roots fill the
pot as far as plunged. In practice, newly
potted plants, had at first better not be
plunged until the roots get hold of the new
soil; they may be set somewhat near to-
gether without any plunging on the north
side of a board protecting against the sun;
then, when growth has commenced, plunge
to the rim giving more room.
Hard rain will not hurt a plant in vigor-
ous growth, if continued, the pots should
be lifted and
plunged again
after the wet
season has
passed. English
growers recom-
mend a double
pot, one pot sus-
pended within
another, which
probably will be
found an im-
i^provement. Last
year I grew a
few by way of
experiment, as
shown in illus-
tration which
pleased me, and
this year I will
growing. Short
Cliiiianiluinum in imt inotre
ted by large tik drain.
make it general in my
lengths of soft-burned, uuglazed drain tile
pipe set on end with a Chrysanthemum
pot placed within affords a good protection
to the roots from the burning sun, provides
a moist atmosphere about the pot, causing
the roots more to seek the side of the pot
and remain healthy. In practice, part
plunge the tile so that its height above
ground is the same height as the pot with
drainage under the pot, and thus serving to
keep the pot upright and the plant trom be-
ing blown over. Less watering will be re-
quired. There is also less danger of injury
by continued rain or overwatering, and the
roots fill the pot to the rim.
About Propagating Roses
W. F. LAKE, ERIE CO., N. V,
Spring Ppopagation. In glass houses
where Roses have been used for the late
supply of winter flowers, it is always an
easy matter to get cuttings from plants that
will readily root, if not too much forced and
in good healthy condition, which may be
seen by the wood being clean and firm, and
in which condition it contains just enough
succulency to facilitate free root formation.
With most growers, the flowers are pro-
duced largely in crops. After a crop has
been harvested, and before the wood has
time to harden, is the best time to secure
the cuttings.
As is common in propagating the vine,
the shoots should be cut in as many pieces
as there are teyes, with from one to two
inches of wood below the leaf, using a very
sharp knife and making the cut in a slant-
ing direction.
The cuttings should be placed in pots
with one third of their depth ot good drain-
age material, the coarsest at bottom, gradu-
ally making it finer. The main soil should
be of light sandy compost, and on it must
be placed clean, sharp silver sand, in which
to put the shoots for rooting. Put them in
around the edge of the pot in a slanting di-
rection so that the eyes will come just a
little below the surface. Water thorough-
ly, and plunge the pots in the bench soil, or
good bottom heat if at hand. In the above
method, it will be seen that there is an ad-
vantage in having good nourishing soil un-
der the sand, giving a fresh impetus to the
young plants directlyjwhen they have rooted.
From this period on the great thing to
give attention to is the humidity of the at-
mosphere, with a view to keeping the fol-
liage fresh until the rootshave taken hold.
The right temperature is from 60 to 70 de-
grees, taking great pains to protect from the
sun's rays, and to keep well supplied with
water. This should be given if possible in
early morning or late evening before the
sun's rays begin to be felt to any consider-
able degree. If the leaves turn yellow and
drop off, the rooting is not so certain, and
many give up on the account that it is hard
to keep cutting from doing this.
For stronger plants, however, it is best to
secure the cuttings from plants that are
grown for this purpose exclusively, as in
this case they are not exhausted by flower-
ing, the more vigorous growth being always
conductive to a larger percentage in rooting.
SuMJiER Propagation. With the trade
it is not the practice to any great extend to
secure stock by summer propagation, but
for the amateur it is a good time to increase
his stock, as the natural conditions are per-
haps more favorable than any other time of
the year. At this time, the cuttings may
have as many as three eyes, but should not
have more than one leaf left on at the top,
and in inserting must be pressed very close-
ly or compactly. A frame with a northern
aspect is the best position, and should be
kept quite close for the first few days. Give
good supply of water, removing the glass
on all nights excepting when strong winds
blow, so to allow the dews to come in con-
tact with the foliage as it restores the vigor
and freshness exhausted by the heat of the
day. It is always a good plan to apply the
syringe also at night and early morning be-
fore putting on the glass, as it has its influ-
ence in keeping the foliage green and the
wood plump till rooting begins, when one
need not be quite so particular in their care.
Fall Propagation. I have seen very
nice plants grown in open ground from cut-
tings by simply taking off the parent plants,
with good liberal cutting, and placing
directly under the bush, where it would be
shaded from sun. This is done in fall when
there is lots of natural moisture on which
depends success. The nature of soil also
has its influence, it usually being such that
comparatively few properly prepared cut-
tings will fail if any kind of regular autumn
weather is prevalent. The best soil for fall
propagating outside is a light marly loam
not holding water. If it is naturally cold
and water-holding, it is best to specially
prepare a plot which shall not possess this
defect. For mixing with the natural, there
is nothing better than the refuse soil from
the potting bench, which, containing as it
should a proportion of sand, will remain in
free condition though there be heavy rains.
A depth of four inches of this material will
last for years, and will not only be found of
value for this purpose but for a score of
other things which may be thus propagated.
A cause of failure common in fall propagat-
ing is putting the slips in too late so that
the callousing does not take place till it is
too late for roots to form in sufficient quan-
tity before the cold weather prevents fur-
ther operations. Medium-sized-growiug
varieties succeed best with this method of
propagating.
POPULAR GARDENING
AND FRUIT GROWIMG.
"ACCUSE NOT NATURE, SHE RATH DONE HER PART: DO THOU BUT THINE." -Miuios.
>^ol. V.
jyc-A-ir, 189 o.
No. 8.
Spring.
When birds are singing
On bvish and tree.
And opening Roses
Allure the bee,—
When grass is growing
In glade and glen.
And young leaves gladden
The lonely fen.—
When brooks are flowing
In music free.
And warm winds travel
Across the sea.
When earth beguiles us
With smile or tear.
We know with gladness
That spring Is here!
— WiUiam B, Hayne,
An English paper criticises the frequent use
made of the unfortunate term " landscape arch-
itect "' by American landscape gardeners, and
thinks the work very descriptive of the formal
hateful work frequently done by them. Perhaps
the criticism is not quite undeserved.
Sound Law is that administered a few weeks
ago by the Loughborough County Court, Eng-
land, in the Thistle seed case Giles vs. Walker.
The latter had allowed a mass of Thistles to grow
and seed on his ground, and thus flooded his
neighbor's (Walkers) garden with seed. Giles
recovered £3 (S15I. It is sound lawto refuse a
man the right to create a nuisance to others,
■especially such serious nuisance, as a field or
garden foul with Thistles must be considered to
be to the whole neighborhood
The Introduction of novelties is one of the
legitimate features of the seed trade. But we
must express our opposition to the attempt to
build up a business merely by working the curi-
osity, credulity, and sensational proclivities of
people. When a wife and mother, (a refined lady
•of the Popui^K Gabdeninq family) sends 3.5
<;ents to an advertising "seedsman" for a package
of seeds, and receives in addition to it a lot of
circulars advertising " The Life of Jesse James",
" The Life of Ansom Bunker alias the Bloody
Hand," and other trash of the same character,
also the curious patent medicine "pain paint"
— she objects, and so do we.
Dr. George Thurber.
An able horticulturist, an eminent botan-
ist and explorer, a skillful editor, and the
most acompllshed all-around horticultural
writer America has produced,— such was
Dr. George Thurber whose death we are
called upon to chronicle. As editor of the
American Agriculturist over a long period,
his erudite, yet charmingly clear and prac-
tical articles, on many subjects, drew to
him tens of thousands of readers who sadly
will miss him. Xo more will appear the
"Talks "so learned and yet so lucid, on
familiar scientilic subjects, by "The Doctor"
which have formed so interesting a feature
of the Young People's department of that
journal; no more the "Notes from the
Pines," those delightful chats about flowers,
plants and fruits from his home and experi-
ment grounds at Passaic, New Jersey. The
nearness of his generous and sympathetic
heart to his readers, was shown in these
famUiar talks in which he wrote as an in-
dividual instead of as an editor.
Dr. Thurber was born in Providence R. I.,
in ISil, where he spent his earlier years. A
passionate love of plants and plant-life trans-
formed the apothecary that he was in youth
into a botanist, and in 18.50 so hignly were
his attainments in this field, appreciated
that he was offered and accepted the position
as naturalist, quarter-master and commis-
sary of the United States and Mexican
Boundary Survey, which gave him an op-
portunity to explore for a number of years
the then little-known natural products of
the regions between the Gulf and the Pacific
Ocean, and to discover many new plants, a
work which he engaged in with a zeal that
was not lessoned by the trials and hardships
thereby endured.
Later on he occupied the position of lec-
turer on chemistry and botany before the
New York College of Pharmacy, and at the
Cooper Union, until in 18.59 he accepted the
professorship of Botany and Horticulture
in the Agricultural College of Michigan.
In 186.3 he returned! to New York as editor
of the American Agriculturist, which posi-
tion he filled for 23 years with great success,
until failing health compelled him to resign,
and restrict his work to occasional contri-
butions. Dr. Thurber's garden was in many
respects the most interesting of its kind in
the country. His collection of native plants
and flowers was perhaps second to none.
Besides his close editorial labors he pub-
lished in 18.59 ".\merican Weeds and Useful
Plants," which is still the standard work on
this .subject It fell to him also to edit and
review many of the works on agriculture
and horticulture issued from the office of
the --Vgriculturist, a work for which he was
without an equal.
Standing alike high as scientist, botanist,
horticulturist, editor, and as man and friend
( for of him.it truly may be said that he was
generous to a fault ), he was respected and
honored by all who knew him, and all who
knew him wiU^miss him, 'and deeply mourn
his loss.
Ben Davis and Wagener Apples
in Ontario, Canada.
The great markefApple for large sections
of the Province Ontario is the Ben Davis.
Many growers assert that it takes .the same
place among Apples that is generally con-
ceded to the Concord among Grapes, and to
Lombard among Plums. It is the Apple
for fruit, and the fruit for money. The bulk
of the crop, grown in Canada, probably
goes to English markets, and has heretotore
found ready buyers and good prices.
Yet even its most^enthusiastic friends con-
cede that as a fruit both for dessert and
cooking purposes, it is poor, except perhaps
when at its best, in early spring, and when
it finds no competitor in the market. Some
of the more far-seeing fruitmen even fear
that its poor quality will tend to discredit
Canadian Apples in English markets, and
eventually lead to lowering the prices for
red fruit. On the other hand, the Ben Davis
is a sure, although not an early bearer, and
a hardy tree. When most other varieties
fail, the Ben Davis will give a bountiful crop.
In some respects the Wagener is the com-
plete counterpart of the Ben Davis, especi-
ally in point of quality, which in the
Wagener is the very best, and in early
bearing, the Wagener being noted as an
early as well as profuse cropper. In fact,
its extravagance in these direction.-i is often
fatal to the tree. While attending the meet-
ing of the Ontario Fruit Growers' Associ-
ation in Windsor, last winter, we were told
by some fruit men, that they planted the
Wagener quite largely with the avowed in-
tention to let the trees kill themselves by
overbearing. For this purpose the orchard
is planted as shown in annexed diagram,
the large trees representing Ben Davis
Apples which come In bearing only at a
more advanced age, while the small trees
are the Wageners, that are allowed to bear
as early and as freely as they may. By the
time the Ben Davis are coming into bearing,
and need the space, the Wageners have
finished their mission, and ruined them-
selves by giving several heavy crops, and
are then taken out.
This or a similar plan might be adopted
in many other places with advantage to the
S^ 9 f 9 f ^^ f
?
^
Tr
*»
TWO VARIETIES TO THE SAME LAND.
grower: but we would suggest that the
highest success is only attainable (1) by
looking sharply after the borer, which
seems to be especially fond of the Wagener;
(2) by giving the trees plenty of good sub-
stantial food, such as wood ashes or other
forms of potash and phosphorus, and (3) to
thin the fruit very thoroughly. With such
treatment the Wagener will be not only one
of the most reliable Apples, but also become
the most popular Apple, because of its
superior quality and handsome appearance.
Give to the English people Wageners thus
grown, and they will soon find out that a
" Canadian Red " -\pple is not always a
poor Ben Davis, and market prices will
have an upward tendency rather than one in
the other direction.
Notes from the Popular Gardeningr
Grounds at La Sal!e-on-the-
Nlagara.
The Fruit Prospects. Our hopeful view of
the situation to which we have given expression
on former occasions, is now confirmed by solid
tacts. All our young fruit trees— Peaches, Plums
( Kelsey's Japan included). Apricots, etc., are
covered with fruit buds, and in a thorough ex-
amination we have thus far failed to find a single
injured bud, every one being "sound as a dollar."
If the season will not go back on its own record
after this date, in other words, if the next six
weeks will deal as kindly with us and our fruits,
as the past six months have done, we shall this
year see every tree and bush loaded down with
luscious fruits. Never have the prospects been
fairer, and at present we do not propose to worry
about what bad things may yet happen, or begin
to croak that there is " many a slip 'twixt cup
and lip."
1 66
POPULAR GARDENING.
May,
Tender Fruits. Among our Peaches we
have lost one tree ; the Peen-to. It had made a
most vigorous growth last summer, but evident-
ly it is too tender to stand even a mild winter in
this climate; and although it may sprout up
again from the lower part of the trunk, yet it
will probably be best to tear it out and replace
by a hardier sort. One or two of our old stand-
ard, tender Apricots also succumbed to the cold
and changes of the past winter. The Russians
are coming out with flying colors, and may give
us a few specimens of fruit.
The Vineyard. This has received a thorough
stirring up with the disk harrow ; and so have
the young orchards. What an elegant tool this
Shrubbery at "Woodbanks." One of the
first steps taken in improving these grounds a
year ago, was to set out a large collection of
hardy ornamental shrubs. This we did knowing
the many good qualities o£ this class of embel-
lishiVg material and because we desired to test
them extensively in the interest of our readers.
The character of one part of this work is shown
in the accompanying engraving, which repre-
sents the largest of eight shrub borders planted,
this one being VJO feet long by 25 feet across at
the widest part. The entire bed contains about
200 plants averaging in distance not far from
four feet apart.
For best effect we believe strongly in planting
j The half-and-half mtxture of the two forego-
I ing which occupies plat 2 is less handsome than
; the plats of the same kinds separately. This is a
I surprise to many gardeners, who had relied on a
[ mixture of these too staple kinds as being near
! the ideal lawn grass. The defect seems to be,
that the Red Top being of stronger growth
crowds the Blue Grass unduly, giving it an im-
perfect color, while the former is less beautiful
j than where it thickly occupies the ground alone.
Plat 4, a mixture used extensively for lawns,
consisting of equal measure of Red Top, Blue
Grass, Crested Dog's Tail, Fescue (Vestuca duri-
i twcula) English Rye Grass (ioh'umperenne). This
' plat is hardly equal in appearance to plat 2,
Plan of large Slirubbery Border on the Popular Gardening Grounds.
is, anyway, for just such work in stone free soil.
We consider it far superior to the plow, as it
stirs the surface thoroughly without danger to
the roots of trees or vines, and at a small fraction
of the time needed to plow the same area.
The Strawberry Bed. The matted rows have
wintered very nicely, especially where thorough-
ly mulched. Some single plants, that were left
without mulch, however, are badly heaved out,
and many of them entirely killed. Last winter
seems to have been a test winter for unmulched
beds, and many of them, in this vicinity, have
fared very badly.
Hot Bed Pests. We have never been more
thoroughly impressed with the importance of
boarding up the hot-bed clear from the bottom,
to exclude moles, rats and mice than this year.
This is because we have never had much trouble
before. Moles do not work in our soil, and we
always found means to trap or poison rats or
mice it they made themselves obnoxious. This
year, however, our hot-bed is infested by a breed
of mice that seem to be proof against traps and
poisons. They began on a lot of choice young
Cauliflower plants, grazing them off like sheep.
Traps were set without avail Next we resorted
to bi-sulphide of carbon, pouring a couple of
ounces into each mouse hole and stopping it up.
This had no other effect, but to make the trouble-
some rodents dig other holes, and cut down all
the plants near them. Getting desperate, we
soaked Wheat in a solution of arsenious acid,
and flUed up the holes with it. This was readily
taken, but the mice continued their work as
before At last they got into our Tomato and
Pepper seed boxes, and the first we noticed, all
our plants of Henderson's Early Ruby and Table
Queen were gone. This aroused us to action.
The flats were taken up, and replaced closely
together, and close to the frame, thus excluding
every chance of entrance from the underside.
The part containing these flats with Tomato,
Pepper and Egg plants, etc., was then divided off
from the rest of the bed by means of panes of
glass set on edge close to the outside of last row
of flats. We think these plants will now be safe,
but we shall continue to experiment with traps
and poisons. A year ago our frames were badly
infested with fleabeetles, and later on with
Potato beetles also, the latter paying considerable
attention to some Potato seedlings, and Egg
plants. Toads at last came to our relief. This
year we have not waited for the toads, but have
strewed Tobacco dust thickly all over the sur-
face of the bed. The flea beetles have left ; and
the Potato beetles have not yet appeared.
not only flowering shrubs but nearly all other
ornamental material, in groups or masses. The
bed illustrated represents a single large mass of
shrubbery and each variety or species of shrub
used, consists again of a mass of from three to
seven plants apiece. The names of the respec-
tive kinds planted are given in the engraving.
The smaller shrub borders planted, vary in
size down to a dozen shrubs apiece. Besides
these there were planted on our grounds
several large masses of evergreen trees and some
of deciduous trees.
One object in thus planting shrubs extensively,
was quick results in embellishing our grounds.
In this we are not disappointed. The shrubs,
true to nature, grew remarkably well and many
kinds flowered profusely even in this first season.
Having set the plants somewhat closely, by mid-
summer the groups made a fine appearance, in
this respect greatly exceeding the growths of a
tree nature planted at the same time It is a
chief advantage of this class of plants, that they
present a mature appearance in one fourth the
time required by other woody growths. The
more extensive our experience in cultivating the
entire class of hardy flowering shrubs the more
heartily canwe urge this culture upon our friends.
Their leading merits may thus be summed up:
low cost, hardiness, ease of culture, early mature
effects, large assortment, beauty of flowers,
foliage and form, long season of bloom in the
different varieties.
Tests op Lawn Grasses. Our largest lawn,
consisting of about one-halt an acre, was sown a
year ago with six different kinds and formulas
of grass seeds, each lot occupying a separate
area. This was the order of the plats over the
piece and which was much longer than wide.
Plat 1. Red Top {AgroMin vulgaris).
" 2. Half-and-half Red Top and Kentucky
Blue Grass.
" 3. Kentucky Blue Grass l.Poa pratensis).
" i. A mixture which is widely in use.
" .5. Crested Dog-tan (Cynosunts cristata).
" 6. Orchard Grass (Dactylis glomerata).
" 7. Timothy tPhleum pratense).
The most attractive plat of the seven to-day,
April 18, and when the grass in places has started
enough to require clipping, is the third plat con-
sisting of Blue Grass alone. This grass is flne in
growth, even, stands very close, and is of a beau-
tiful dark green color.
Next in attractiveness, is plat 1. sowed with
Red Top alone. This grass is somewhat coarser
than the Blue Grass and several shades lighter
in color, but yet forms a handsome even lawn.
hence would in this soil (a Chestnut loam) seem
to have little to commend it.
Plat 5. Is no more satisfactory than plat 4.
Plat li. Orchard Grass alone, is at this writing-
quite even and handsome, the young growth
being of a vivid green. It stands about third in
point of attractiveness of all the plats.
Plat 7. Timothy has an inferior appearance at
this date.
As but one season has passed since the sowing
of the foregoing plats, while permanent results
IS the main object in a lawn, it may not be proper
to pass final judgment on the kinds and formulas
and later reports on the same will be given. Ad-
ditional tests of mixtures and separate grasses
are being made the present season.
New Use For Old Material.
THEO. F. LONOSECKER. MOSTGOMERV CO., OmO.
Where canned goods are bought from the
stores, there is an accumulation of tin cans.
For several years I have made use of theni
as follows: When burning rubbish they
were thrown into the fire and left there a
few minutes until the solderingwas melted,
when with a long pole they are drawn from'
the fire. They are then in the condition
shown in the illustration at the left. Flat
boxes of nearly same height as the cans are
bought at the groceries. The cans are set
so closely together in the boxes that the
'U
lluw Ui use Ukl Tin Cans
edges of the tin come together. Good soil
is then thrown in the box until the cans and
the intervening spaces are filled.
Cucumbers, Lima Beans, Nutmegs,
Watermelons, etc., may be planted in the
cans. When all danger of frost is over,
take box and all to the field where wanted;
make a hole of sufl5cient size to receive the
can. In picking up the can and plant, press
the tin together, so to prevent the soil fal-
ling out. Set it where wanted, and fill in
the soil around the can. Take hold of the
1 890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
167
tin at a a, open it a little by a gentle out-
ward pressure and lift it out of the ground.
I find this as satisfactory as transplanting
from pots, and it is done as quickly. The
tins can be placed together, inside of each
other, and saved for future use.
A Missouri Winter Pear.
In annexed illustration we present the ex-
act likeness of specimen of the KruUWinter
Pear sent us last of .January by Mr. G. F.
Mallinckrodt of St. Charles, Mo. This is a
very handsome, well-shaped fruit, but not of
very high quality. We were tempted to
pronounce it sweet and
poor, reminding of the very
earliest summer Pears.
Where the Anjou, and
Winter Sellis, and Pears of
that quality succeed, the
KruU is not wanted.
Yet it may And a place.
Mr. Mallinckrodt writes us:
"In this section we have
had no Winter Pears, or
none that will keep even
until mid-winter. This new
variety has the keeping
quality, and is here con- !'■ :
sidered "good to very good. " ' '
Let me call your attentimi
to the firmness of tlesh In
fore fully ripe, and to tin
thickness of skin, which I
know will render itagnod
shipper." , ; ■
There can be no doubt as ■
to its superior keeping '■:,.'■_■ - i
qualities, but unless we • -'
did not test the specimens
sent us when just riglit,
the Missouri people must
be probably less fastidious
in regard to the quality of
\viuter fruit than we are. We confess that it
is not an easy matter to do full justice to a
fruit even but slightly inferior in quality
to the finest winter Pears, the taste of which
is vet in our mouth.
How to Pack Plants for Shipping.
L. B. PIERCE, SIIMMIT C«>., O.
Notwithstanding the good examples set
by some leading plant growers of good
packing, there is still a frightful amount of
ignorance on the subject, and a loss to the
receivers of poorly-packed goods.
In the introduction of a new Strawberry, a
few years ago, the plants being shipped
from a western state, many lost a part of
their high-priced plants simply because
they were packed too wet and too tight.
In many cases shipments were delayed
and the result was fermentation and decay.
One nurserymen who ordered (iOO plants and
made less than ICX) grow, told me that he
feared it was done purposely in order to
have less increase the ne.xt year outside of
the disseminator's hands, but others who
were also heavy loosers considered it a result
of poor judgment and ignorance on the
part of the packer.
There are several things to be considered
on the part of the shipper: these are in the
order of their importance: kind of plant;
season of the year; distance to be shipped,
mode of conveyance: place shipped to.
Dormant plants give little trouble as a
rule, provided plenty of sphagnum is used
and they are packed sufficiently snug to
prevent shifting of position.
Raspberry tips and small Evergreens,
however, need extra precautions. The for-
mer are generally shipped in barrels and
often little or no packing is used; the plants
are not pressed down, and the air 'gets to
many of them, so they become dried and
worthless. If the plants were all extra fine,
with compact heavy masses of roots, there
would be little more loss than with to many
.■\sparagus roots, but this is rarely the case,
especially with plants grown on thin or
sandy soil.
P.\CKIXG R.\SPBERRY PLANTS. Barrels
are the best packages and a layer of Sphag-
num or rowen hay should be placed in the
bottom coming up the sides six inches.
Some of both materials is best, and the hay
makes it possible to use less of the more
expensive Moss. After covering the bottom,
place 100 plants evenly distributed and cor-
rectly counted.
Put on a half inch of Sphagnum, being
I
\
KRULL WINTER PEAR.
careful to have it come to the sides of the
barrel. Then put on a thin layer of hay
which makes a definite division, then another
hundred plants,and so on. When the barrel
is heaping full, make a follower of a square
board with the corners sawed oft that will
just go into the barrel, put it on and let a
heavy man step on, and settle the mass as
firmly as possible, then pack it full again
and once more tread it down. Then saw a
piece of fence board to just fit in above the
follower, put it in and fasten by nailing
through the staves. If the barrel is tight,
bore two or three holes in the bottom and
then pour in a couple of pails of water at
the open end letting it soak through the
plants, the overplus going out at the bottom.
Thus packed. Raspberry tips will keep
moist and in good condition for two or three
weeks.
Packing Young Evergreens. Young
Kvergreens if of a length of ten inches or
more are best packed in a box just long
enough to contain two lengths, the roots
being placed together in the center of the
bo.x, pressed in tightly and a wide board
nailed across. The cover should hide from
view all but the very tips, in other words
the whole box should be covered except two
inches at each end left open for ventilation.
This will prevent any mistaken kindness on
the part of station agents in watering the
tops. I once received a box of young Ever-
greens from northern Michigan. The plants
came .Saturday evening and I was not able
to go until Tuesday morning. The plants
were expressed with the exception of the
roots which were covered by a board. The
weather was warm and the agent thinking
to do me a kindness watered the tops. The
trees had been packed ten days, and possi-
bly watered en route by some other kind
but ignorant official, and the result was the
plants were a mass of mold and about 6,000
out of 7,.500 failed to grow.
Str.^wberrt Plants. These should be
shipped in strong half-bushel market bas-
kets lined with parafine paper, with plenty
Sphagnum, and it is much better not to
bunch the plants if they are to be shipped
any distance, but arrange them in layers
with Sphagnum. The paper in the bottom
should be in two pieces one lapping over the
others two or three inches to give drainage.
Varieties can be separated by a piece of
heavy cardboard two inches wide, extending
across the package and marked on both
sides with an indelible pencil, a tag also
being tied to each variety where it com-
mences. After packing,
a piece of white netting
should be tacked over
the basket, and the basket
set for a few minutes in a
tub containg two inches
of water. On no account
wet the foliage of any
growing plant in packing.
Plainly stencilled on the
top of the handle should
be the legend: " Do not
water these plants." Only
.500 to 1,000 Strawberry
plants can be packed in
a basket, and for large
orders boxes must be used.
Old berry stands can be
used by attaching new
and longer standards or
using only three drawers
with the original stand-
ards. After packing the
lower drawer, nail thin
strips two inches wide
across the standards, then
place another tray and
pack, and so on.
Vegetable Plants.
These may be packed in
as Strawberry plants.
Especial pains should be taken with stuff
shipped in hot weather, or to the southern
states, and plants should not be offered so
low that the seller cannot afford to pack
properly. An instance comes to mind where
a friend lost .5.000 Cabbage plants in conse-
quence of the shipper's disregard of the
orders given hira by the patron concerning
the selection of express company. The
charges, instead of being about 3.5 cents as
they would have been by the one route,
were SO cents, and the plants being two or
three days on the way instead of less than
one day, and with tops freely watered by a
kind express agent, smelled like "krout,"
and were worthless. ■
the same way
1,781. number of Vines in Grapery. A lean-
to 16x9 will contain four Gnipe vines pruned to
a single cane each. Black Hamburg is the surest
and best. The border should be made rich, and
weLl-prepared for the best results. Yes, a man
of business if he likes it, can find time to give it
all the attention required. It takes less care than
the same number of out-door vines as you have
no mildew or insect enemies to contend with. —
Chas. L. Jones. V. J.
1,706. Sizing for Hotbed Sash. Stretch closely-
woven muslin or factory cloth tightly on the
frame, then apply with a paint brush three
ounces paraffin dissolved by heat in one pint
boiled linseed oil. Scrape off all you can on
upper side with a caseknife. I have some made
this way which but for being discolored are now
as good as ever, after being exposed two years
summer and winter. It is perfectly waterproof.
~C K. Meyer.
1,679. Tomato Bot and 1,697 Tomato Mildew.
Try Bordeaux mixture.— H. VV. S.
1,706. Sizing for Hotbed Cloth. The follow-
ing is a good recipe for the waterproofing of
cfdico: Old pale Linseed oil, three pints; sugar
of lead one ounce ; white resin four ounces.
Grind the sugar of lead with a little of oil, then
add the rest and the resin. Incorporate thor-
oughly in a large pot over a gentle fire, and with
a large brush apply hot to a fine calico stretched
loosely previously by means of tacks, upon the
frame.— H. W. Smith, ia.
1 68
POPULAR GARDENING.
May,
Growing Strawberries for Marl<et.
Second Paper.
L. J. FARMER, OSWEGO CO., N. Y.
The success of Strawberry culture depends
largely on a proper selection of varieties,
and one should be guided somewhat by the
demands of his customers. If quality, large
size, or mere quantity, is the chief desidera-
tum, then a variety having that particular
characteristic developed to the highest de-
gree should be selected. If for a near market,
firmness is secondary; but when shipping
long distances, it is most important. Some
customers dislike to pay more for large ber-
ries, but, if all are offered at the same price,
most every body will take the large ones.
A few appreciate quality and are willing to
pay for it. This class is not always confined
to the rich. Some of our best paying cus-
tomers are among the mechanics and other
working people.
Varieties. In order to catch all the trade,
and satisfy everybody, we grow several vari-
eties. Customers are supplied according to
their wants, and charged proportionately.
Plant growers are often censured for re-
taining so many varieties on their lists, to
confuse the beginner. The fact is, nursery-
men would be pleased to discard many vari-
eties, but are unable to do so because of the
demands of their customers. Very few
varieties do well everywhere, while almost
everyone gains a local celebrity somewhere.
If a nurseryman plows up his patch of a
variety that proves unprofitable with him,
he may get an order from somewhere for
those plants the very next day. But for the
man who grows Strawberries for the fruit
alone, four or five varieties are sufficient.
We want early, medium and late berries, in
order to prolong the season, and get the
benefit of the best prices. As an American,
I believe in improvement, and therefore test
the new varieties as they come out.
The old Crescent and Wilson will answer
the purpose till someone brings into market
some of the large and attractive varieties
like Bubach, Warfield or Jessie. Then
things are changed, and the man who neg-
lects to plant these improved varieties will
be left behind.
Procuring Plants. The first cost of
plants, however great, is small compared to
the labors and expense that must be put
upon them afterwards. One should there-
fore procure the very best plants. Plants
taken up with dirt adhering to the roots and
Bet out the same day, cannot fall to live.
If you can grow them yourself or procure
them from a neighbor, the results will be
better than when the plants are procured
from a distance. You had better pay the
neighbor $5 per thousand for new-bed plants
STRAWBERRY SETTER.
than to take plants as a gift from his old
bed. Plants from old beds are lacking in
vitality. They will not grow so well nor
produce so much fruit. If the practice of
setting plants from old beds is continued
from year to year, the variety will continue
to deteriorate and finally run out. Take,
•for instance, the Wilson; its productiveness
used to be a wonder. Being a slow runner,
the rows spreatl only wide enough for fruit-
ing. Most growers not liking to disturb the
new fruiting beds, have taken plants to set
new plantations from their old beds that
have fruited once. The Wilson is not what
it used to be, although valuable in some
favorable locations where it has been less
abused. Had it been a more rampant grower
like the Crescent, plants from old beds
would have been set more rarely; and it
would have continued in popularity longer.
Some growers saw the error before too late,
and have avoided old plants.
Plants from old beds are often badly
mixed. When Wilsons are set with Cres-
cents, the latter, being more vigorous, will
run into the Wilson rows, and finally crowd
them all out.
An inexperienced person getting plants
from such a bed would be almost sure to get
only Crescents, and thus have only his labor
for his pains, as the Crescent produces only
" buttons " when planted alone.
In sending to a nurseryman for plants,
insist on getting strong, well-rooted plants,
grown on beds that have been set the year
before and never borne fruit. The plants
should be taken up carefully with all the
roots adhering, and tied in bunches of 35 or
50, depending on the size, some varieties
being twice as large as others. The smaller
the bunches the better they keep when
packed. Plants sent by mail should have
their roots covered with damp moss, then
wrapped in oiled paper and strong manilla.
When packed in plenty of moss, leaving the
leaves exposed to the air, plants often travel
thousands of miles by mail, keeping fresh a
week to ten days, according to the weather.
As the postage on plants is now only eight
cents a pound, nurserymen can be more
liberal In the use of moss and in the size of
plants they send. It is therefore one of the
cheapest ways of procuring plants, especially
in small quantities and where the distance
is great. Plants by express should be packed
in light crates, the bunches separated by
layers of damp moss, with roots interlacing,
and top exposed to the air. Packed thus
they often keep fresh for several weeks.
Early in spring or late in the autumn plants
may be sent short distances by fast freight
on direct lines, and at a great saving in
transportation charges. But it is not safe
to send long distances when they have to
be transferred several times, as there is often
great delay, and the railroad companies take
no responsibility.
Care of Plants on Receipt. As soon as
possible after taking plants from the office,
they should be opened and cared for. Dip
the roots in water and cover with wet moss.
If not ready to set, the plants may be heeled
in a shady place. Break open the bunches
and spread out so that the roots will come
in contact with the soil. Water occasionally
and keep from wind and sun. When plants
are received early in the spring from the
south, they may be kept till warm weather
by burying in a snow bank. Take out the
bunches and puddle the roots In mud of the
consistency of cream; repack them, and
placing them on the ground at the bottom
of a snow bank cover over with snow, and
on this place sawdust or straw to prevent
rapid melting. Treated thus they will keep
as long as the snow lasts.
Time of Setting. Strawberry plants may
be set every month in the year, and a crop
secured the following season. The usual
time, however, at the north is during April
and May, on sandy soils, and at the south,
plantings are made in the autumn and thus
a better growth secured the following year.
The earlier plants are set in the spring, the
better the growth secured provided every-
thing is favorable. The Strawberry plant
has great vitality, and during favorable
weather I have known plants to strike root
and grow where the workmen had dropped
them by mistake.
The most desirable time to set is when the
soil is moist (not muddy) and the sky cloudy.
I have known plants set in June, when the
ground was moist and the weather favora-
ble, to do better than those set two months
earlier while the soil was dry. Plants set
late and the ground stirred soon afterwards
and frequently, will do better than those
planted early, but allowed to take care of
themselves for a month or till spring's work
is all done.
Marking the Ground and Preparing
Plants. There are various modes of mark-
ing Strawberry ground; but any way is good
that brings about the desired result— straight
rows. ■ Some people plow a furrow and set
the plants up against the land side, others
use a line for marking. On our stony soil
we use a two-toothed peg marker with thills,
to be drawn by a horse. One man leads the
horse while another guides the marker. It
is very important where horse power is used
in cultivation to have the rows straight, as
then the cultivator may be run close to the
plants. The first row may be staked off
and marked with the foot. A space should
be left on the ends of the rows for turning
around on with the horse. Have the rows
run the longest way, and thus save time in
turning around. We make the rows 3i{ feet
apart for slow growers, and 5 feet apart for
rapid runners with plants one foot apart in
the row.
Before setting out, the plants should have
all dead leaves and runners removed, and
the roots shortened to six inches. If late in
the spring it is better to remove a part of
the green leaves, as too much foliage draws
on the plants' vitality before the roots begin
to work. The runners bother in hoeing and
also in setting. The more trash on the
plants, the more bother. The plants packed
In a crate in damp moss may be brought to
the field and placed in the shade till wautefl.
If the weather is cloudy a boy may drop
the plants in advance of the man who sets
them, and much time be saved. But if it
be cold and windy, the plants should be
placed in a pan with water in the bottom,
and each plant taken out only as it is wanted.
If plants are exposed to the hot sun or cold
drivingiWinds, they lose their vitality in a
few moments and are worthless.
Plants kept long in moss, like fruits in
cold storage, soon spoil, and if not used
quickly on being exposed, their value is
about gone.
Setting Strawberries. For setting
plants we use a tool shaped somewhat like
an adz or grul) hoe. The blade is of steel
ten inches long and four inches wide. It is
made thin and curved inwards. At the top
is a hole for a handle, which is one toot long.
It may be made by the local blacksmith and
costs $1.00. We call this tool a "Strawberry
setter; " but it may be used in setting vege-
table plants or heeling in Ra.spberry plants.
Grasping the setter in the right hand the
workmen strike the blade into the soil about
seven inches and then withdraw it. As the
setter is withdrawn, and before the soil
rattles back into the hole, a plant is inserted
back of the setter. The soil is pushed up to
and around the plant by a forward move-
ment of the setter, and thus the work is ac-
complished.
Plants put out this way have the roots set
a little obliquely, but seem to do as well as
when put down straight. The soil comes in
close contact with the roots, and there is no
cavity left around them. The earth is left
loose, and not packed hard as where a dibble
or trowel is used. One of these tools will
last a Ufe time, and we used to spoil two or
three trowels every year. The general ap-
pearance of this Strawberry setter is shown
in Illustration on this page.
Care should be taken that the crown of
the plant be put even with the surface. If
below the surface the plants will rot in a
wet season; if above, they will dry up in a
dry season.
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
i6g
Notes on Plum Culture and
Plum Curculio.
JOSEPH CHASE. MIDDLESEX CO., M.\SS.
I set one-year-old Plum seedlings in nur-
sery rows, t;row them lo ,?k' or J4 inch diam-
ter, and then graft them in early spring as
near the crown of the roots as convenient,
with a cion having four or live buds. ^ATien
the l>uds have grown to twelve or eighteen
inches high, I nip off the top to make the
side shoots grow, thus forming a low tree,
branching out about six inches from the
ground. Thus grown, it is easy for the
owner to work around the trees and to pick
the fruit while standing on the ground.
To save the fruit from the ravages of the
curculio, I watch the fall of the white
blossom leaf, then I go out to the trees in
early morning with a tin scoop and some
dry coal ashes, and shower the trees well,
say twice each week until the fruit is one-
third grown. I sift my coal ashes in the
cellar during winter, in an iron ash barrel,
and head up in Hour barrels. After the land
is plowed in spring, I roll the barrels out
under the Plum trees. In the season of
1888 I was obliged to prop up my trees to
keep them from breakmg down. The sea-
son of 1889 was so wet that most of the
Plums rotted on the trees about here.
Celery Growing.
MRS. M, R. W., SCiiTT CO., IOWA.
It is a wonder to me, that more farmer
families do not enjoy having this delicious
vegetable upon their tables. I am convinced
from my own experience, that anyone who
has grown it once successfully, will certain-
ly have it regularly, year after year. That
is just my case, and in the face of many
obstacles, I have come to count upon having
an abundance of crisp, nutty Celery to put
away in the fall.
I start the seed in a cold frame. \Vhen
sulBciently large, I transplant to a small
bed in the garden, setting but few inches
apart and cultivate well. Then the middle
of July, or even later, have the " gude mon"
run furrows where the rows are intended,
going through each furrow twice with a
little shovel plow, first working in an abun-
dance of rotten manure. Then the plants
are set. If there is any danger of the plants
wilting, I cover with boards. Sufficient
moisture must be provided, as this is the
dryest season of the year. All through
August the plants must be kept in a grow-
ing state; then when the cooler weather of
September and October comes on, you will
think it wonderful how rapidly they grow.
I earth up any time during October, pre-
viously going along the row and tying the
stalks, or bunches, with a cloth string; this
keeps the earth out, and is easier handled.
You must use your hands, but after getting
the earth well up, you may then use a hoe
or spade. Earth up at one time. I always
like to finish a job if possible, without being
at it forever. No use earthing up gradually.
In three weeks or later much of it will be
fit for table use, but I allow it to remain out
as long as possible.
I have a long narrow box just the height
of the Celery, with holes bored in the sides
to enable me to get water at the roots. The
roots are dug with earth adhering, and
packed closely in this box, in river sand.
Never water from the top, as the Celery
would be sure to rot. Any farmer's wife
who is fond of Celery, may have it in abun-
dance, and I assure you, there is but little
work. .Just a little pleasant recreation, if
you have health and strength. If not eat
plenty of your neighbor's Celery, and you
will gain strength. I consider it a grand
medicine, and easily taken. I consider the
Golden Self-blanching the finest Celery I
have ever grown. Boston Market is of
good flavor, and always has kept well for
me. Giant White SoUd is very crisp, and
blanches so very white. I shall try some
of the red varieties this year.
Anyone with a garden patch might grow
all the Celery needed on the early Pea patch.
Suggfestlons on Marketing.
\VM. H. YEOMASS, TALLAND CO., CONN.
Farmers frequently complain that they
fail to get satisfactory prices for their pro-
ducts, and find fatilt with dealers because
they will pay no more, when in reality the
trouble lies with themselves. The sale of
any product depends very much on its ap-
pearance to the eye. Precisely the same
thing may be offered by different persons
under conditions peculiar to the individuals,
and one will sell at a good price while the
other will have to accept much less if he
sells at all. P^-en farmers themselves who
are negligent in caring for their own pro-
ducts will make their purchases of necessa-
ries at the places that are most neat and
clean, and where the goods have an inviting
look, but will neglect the very attention to
points by which they themselves are at-
tracted.
In putting up for market any product,
whether fruit or vegetable, it is always bet-
ter to have uniformity of size, and quality
so far as may be. Baskets of Strawberries
are often arranged wil h fine large berries at
the top, while the bulk underneath are small
and quite inferior. The principle of putting
up in good shape was well illustrated by a
farmer who, when Tomatoes were plenty,
and the market full, went with two or three
baskets filled with choice selected specimens,
with the sides and top trimmed with leaves.
The application to purchase was at first met
with " No; we are full," but when the fruit
was shown to the merchant, the response
was at once, " Yes; we do want them."
This only serves as a fair illustration of
what can be done by taking pains, and put-
ting up only products of good quality and
In good shape.
Berries in the Home Garden.
E. P. POWELL. ON-EIDA CO., N. T.
The object of a garden is to make home
more delightful. If you do not propose to
sell a quart of berries, you are under the
same obligation to grow Strawberries and
Raspberries that you are to grow Potatoes
and Apples. The rounding out of home life
with comforts and refinements affects char-
acter. You find a home where none of the
results of modern culture are found, and you
will find, as a rule, something corresponding
in the occupants. Perhaps, however, it
would be as well not to have berry gardens
at all unless they are cared for on sensible
principles. Kasy as it seems now to manage
a good plat of Raspberries, or even Black-
berries, it took several years of experience
and considerable worry and waste before
the thing could be done.
Strawberries for the majority of growers
must be grown in the matted row. It is
hopeless to expect that a busy farmer will
watch carefully enough to make the hill
system a success. I plant in rows six feet
apart and close in the rows. These are
allowed to fill up compact rows for the first
and second years. Then runners are allowed
to fill up the interspaces, and the old plants
are dug out. I see that a plan is advocated
of cutting off the tops after fruitage, and so
occuying the energies of the plant that it
will not form runners. By this plan they can
easily be kept in hills. I am inclined to
think there is something in the idea. But
for the purpose of economizing room, I grow
the larger part of my Strawberries under
my rows of Grapes. They will not do as
well thus grown, but will do well enough.
A Strawberry bed once planted requires,
during the first summer, only attention to
the runners. If allowed to sprawl every-
where, the rows will become very irregular.
The culture of the bed, apart from hoeing,
begins in November. Cover the rows and
between the rows with a light coat of well-
worked horse manure or common stable
manure, made loose and friable with saw-
dust bedding. I sometimes first sprinkle
over the rows a light coat of leaves,and then
the manure. In the spring relieve the plants
of the coarser deposit with a rake, and leave
it in the interspaces. Now comes your first
crop, and it should be a fairly good one.
The second year's crop, however, should be
much better. After the mulch is removed
in spring, run a cultivator through between
the rows occasionally, and have the weeds
kept out all summer. The hoe should be
freely used to keep the soil in the row loose
after the picking; not too much hacking
about before picking. But on no account
at any time let the weeds get a start. Weeds
and Strawberries will not harmonize. Good
culture, or small berries and few of them, is
a law of this fine fruit.
Repeat the covering each November, and
there will be no need of any other enriching
if the soil is strong. On light sand you must
enrich accordingly.
For varieties I select Sharpless, Haver-
land, Bubach, Cumberland, Jessie. Of the
newer sorts I shall plant Crawford. Mrs.
Cleveland, Eureka and a few more. I am
sure that no one can go amiss in planting a
bed of Cumberland and Sharpless, and
Haverland and Bubach. These four varie-
ties are superb and entirely satisfactory.
Don't begin with novelties, and don't deal
with agents, and don't plant any sort that
you are assured will give you berries that
measure over three inches in diameter. But
I did have hundreds of quarts last summer
made up of about 30 berries to a quart. If
you grow for market it does not pay to grow
small berries for quantity. The time used
in picking and the uncertainty of sale at
profitable figures, more than covers the gain
of quantity. The Vick, under high culture,
is a great bearer, but a most unprofitable
berry; the Crescent is much better on ac-
count of its beauty, but it is not profitable.
A large berry and fewer crates is better than
double the number of crates and only half-
sized berries.
Poor berries never pay in the long run.
High and careful culture of the best sorts
bringing quick sales at highest prices is the
true rule. But I only turn aside to this point
because nearly all home gardens have a sur-
plus of berries to be disposed of to neighbors,
or a near market. Whoever plants a home
garden should have a few crates with berry
baskets about his barn, and sell what is not
needed for family consumption. I am myself
by no means in the berry business, but I
sold last year .50 bushels of Raspberries, 60
bushels of Currants, 20 bushels of Straw-
berries and 10 bushels of Blackberries. If
you find you are specially skillful, and have
a natural aptitude for berry gardening as
some have not, you will be likely to step into
the business. Better begin slowly, and feel
your way. Nine-tenths of the failures are
owing to launching out too largely before
experience has been accumulated. It is with
berries exactly as with other crops, one must
learn a thousand things no one can tell him.
The points in Strawberry culture most
likely to bring failure are (1) lack of water
in ripening season. This must be provided
for by mulching. The plan I have suggested
of raking the winter's covering into the in-
terspaces provides a good mulch. If the
climate is liable to drought, and the soil is
light, it is well to add a mulch of cut straw
or sawdust. I find the sawdust from a neigh-
boring saw mill every way best. It is clean,
and is easily applied with baskets from the
wagon. It does not harbor bugs and worms;
170
POPULAR GARDENING.
May,
and it becomes in a short time a valuable
part of the soil. Straw in winter encourages
mice, and in summer is soon made foul by
treading. (2) The second danger is from
thawing after freezing in winter, and so
heaving out. This is prevented by the top-
dressing I have suggested.
CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
NINTH PAPER.
DR. J. STAVMAN, LEAVENWORTH, KANSAS.
Soil and Situation.
In successful vineyard culture much de-
pends upon the soil, location and climate, as
may be seen in the quaUty of wine and fruit
from ditlerent districts and vinyards; but in
garden culture we have but little choice to
make, for we will have to plant our Grapes
where are gardens are, or do without them.
Notwithstanding this difference, the Grape
is perhaps adapted to a wider range of
country than any other fruit. We have
found it growing wild and bearing profusely
on the river bottoms overflown by the spring
freshets, in the ravines and clefts of the
rocks, on the gentle slopes, on the high hills
and mountain ranges, variously exposed, in
a humid and arid atmosphere, in the forests
climbing the highest trees, in the groves
and thickets riinning over the brambles and
bushes, and on the border of the open
prairie, without any support except the tall
grass. What other fruit can be found grow-
ing wild and bearing so profusely over such
a vast range of country, with such diversi-
fied soil situations and climate as from
Maine to California and from Canada to the
Gulf of Mexico I
Each species appears to have its own loca-
tion and climate and grows to a higher
state of perfect there than anywhere else.
For that reason it is useless for us to
attempt to grow every species and variety
in the same location with the same success.
We can, however, grow a sufficient number
of varieties on any soil that will grow
Wheat within the range of sufficient heat,
for home use. While this is so in garden
culture, it is very different in vineyard cul-
ture, either for market or wine. For if we
do not .select a good location, we can not
expect to compete with those who do. A
location that will produce good wine, may
produce good market fruit, but it does not
follow that a location for market will also
be good for wine ; for early maturity, large
size and beauty are more important for
market than late matmrity and fine quality.
In selecting a situation for market, it is
best to be near some good permanent mar-
ket. If there is no good location at such
points, then it is much better when we go
where the best locations are with railroad
or water facilities.
Remember in planting for market we
should aim to have a warm location so that
our fruit will mature early, evenly and per-
fectly, for the earliest fruit brings the high-
est price. Therefore a few days in advance
will much enhance the value of our crop.
This being a natural advantage will soon
pay for the best location aud be of a perma-
nent value.
We should also guard against sudden
and excessive changes of temperature as
they subject us to early and late frosts
which may very much injure our crops.
By locating near large bodies of wat«r,
we obviate excessive changes and are not
so subject to early and late frosts, and our
crops are more certain, but the fruit does
not mature so soon and consequently is not
so valuable for market. But if we select high
elevations with east, south, or west expo-
sures in proximity to deep and wide valleys,
we both hasten the maturity of our fruit,
and guard against excessive variations of
temperature.
It is a well-established fact that southern
slopes of high hills or elevated benches,
with a clay subsoil well drained, whether
the surface is composed of humus, sandy
loam or calcareous earth, are the best loca-
tions, and if the soil is rich enough to pro-
duce good Wheat, it is sufficiently rich to
grow Grapes, and that lime, marl, ashes and
bone dust are good fertilizers when the
ground is not rich enough. It may be ex-
pected by some that we will po nt out the
best situations to produce the best wine, but
this subject embraces so many important
conditions that we do not feel able to do the
subject justice in a short article like this.
For it should be remembered to make wine
successfully and profitably, we should be
able to compete not only with our own
neigborhood, but also with the best wine
districts of this country as well as Europe.
It requires a specific amount of heat to
elaborate and develop a due proportion of
sugar in the Grape, and whatever tends to
the tliorough ripening of our fruit, will add
to the strength, quality, and aroma of our
wine. The best conditions are warm soil,
dry, elevated, sunny hill sides in a tem-
perate climate within the zone of sufficient
heat and diminished moisture, particularly
from seeding to the maturity of the Grape.
It should be remembered (1) that the Grape
requires a daily mean temperature of .52°
before it foliates, and a definite amount of
heat from thence to its full maturity. (2)
That all the variations in the time of ripen-
ing depend upon this and the amount of
rain fall. And (3) that the richness and
quality of the Grape depends upon the
amount of sugar the fruit contains, and
this again depends upon the high mean
temperature under which the seeds are
formed and the Grape matured.
Ontario County Fruit Growers
in Council.
{Concluded from poge 124.)
Protecting the Honey Bee. All mem-
bers agree that trees should not be sprayed
while in bloom, not only because it would
be useless, but also because it would en-
danger the lives of honey bees, which are
very beneficial to the fruit grower. A mem-
ber from Kssex states that he would not
attempt to grow Plums, Cherries and Pears
without spraying, but this should be done
after the blossoms fall. A resolution in op-
position to the practice of spraying trees
while in bloom was then unanimou.sly
adopted. The strength of solution recom-
mended by members for spraying the trees
named is three ounces of Paris green to .50
gallons of water.
Potash Fertilizer.s. Prof. Penton calls
attention to the great value of potash for
fruit crops. It is just the element that
starts the machinery, and none is of greater
beneficial influence. Asked about the value
of the ashes of soft and hard coal. Prof.
Penton says there is not much plant food in
the one, and none in the other.
Marketing Grapes. Mr. Petit presented
a paper, advising growers to study the con-
dition of their own market, and to use their
own ingenuity. Middlemen and transpor-
tation companies take most of the profits.
Great care should be exercised in picking,
else Grapes will not keep, or give satisfac-
tion. Women and girls, as a rule, make the
best pickers and packers. Try to please the
eye. Have packages clean and neat. In
shipping tor market, put nothing in the
packages not good enough for you to eat, or
put on your own table. The shipping of
green Grapes has cost our fruit growers
many thousands of dollars. It has disgust-
ed people with the use of Grapes. Perhaps
one-half of the Grapes in Ontario are picked
and shipped before they are in proper state
of ripeness.
Montreal and Toronto are the best dis-
tributing centers of Ontario. But just as
soon as once place quotes high prices, every
one ships there, consequently the prices
drop and go up in the other market. Every
grower should ship the bulk of his crops to
his nearest market.
Another cause of failure is fruitgrowers
are too often induced to patronize the new
firms that spring up every spring and migrate
when it is time to make returns. A uniform
basket should be adopted. The Ui-pound
basket is fully large enough, so we might
do away with the 20-pound. The most por-
fitable Grapes for Ontario are for black,
Worden, Concord, Rogers' No. 4; for red,
Delaware, Lindley, Brighton, Agawam, Ca-
tawba ; for white, Niagara.
Salem is more liable to mildew than most
of the Rogers, and if a shower comes, it
bursts badly. Otherwise it is one of the
best keeping Grapes in Ontario.
Plum Culture. This subject is treated
by Mr. S. D. Willard of Geneva, N. Y.
Bradshaw, he says, is a little tender when
young, but hardy and reliable when old.
Has often sold the fruit of a single tree
and year for over S12 to ?il4. Peter's Yellow
Gage comes in ealier than Reine Claude,
which is a disadvantage. Otherwise it is
one of the best of all light-colored Plums,
not one of the best growers, but extremely
hardy, an annual bearer and finest for eat-
ing and canning. EUwanger and Barry are
the only firm who catalogue it. Lombard,
Gueii, Hudson River Purple Egg (which
sells as fancy ),Coe's Golden Drop, and Reine
Claude where hardy, were recommended as
good sorts for market.
Imperial Gage is tender, and not as pro-
ductive as some others. Moore's Arctic is
very tender in Geneva, Shipper's Pride is a
fair Plum, but on the whole, Mr. Willard
has been disappointed with it. It is good,
not best. Pond's Seedling is not productive
enough; Victoria is unreliable, although a
beautiful Plum, and good.
The following are recommended for testing
Prince of Wales, one of the most beautiful,
hardy, productive and promising sorts sent
from England.
Stanton Seedling would be the one selects
ed if he could have but one Plum for can-
ning or marketing. Has kept it for two
weeks. Field somewhat resembles Brad-
shaw. Grand Duke promises to be the best
late dark-colored Plum for market. Mon-
arch and Archduke are promising. Prunus
.Simoni bids fair to be sold on the fruit
stands. Good for market.
As the best three varieties for home use,
Mr. Willard names (1) Bradshaw; (2) Peter's
Yellow Gage ; (3) Stanton Seedling.
High feeding is necessary for best success.
Plums are surface-feeding trees, and eat up
more manure than almost anything else.
The Horse Plum of Western New York is
best for stock. Don't cut the roots or they
will sucker. Plowing will kill the trees ;
the cultivator will do the work just right.
Trees are planted ten feet apart in rows six-
teen feet apart. Mr. Willard is going to use
Paris Green for spraying hereafter.
Russian Apricot.s. They do not repro-
duce themselves true from seed, hence the
seedlings as they run, are of little value. A
number of selected varieties are now claimed
to be of fair quality; but there are no re-
ports as yet, says Mr. T. T. I^yon ( Mich.),
and the question as to their value or desira-
bility remains yet unsettled. Plxpert grow-
ers do not express any too much confidence
in them.
Hedge for South Ontario. Mr. McNeal
shows a sample of Thorn hedge. A wire
fence may be cheaper, but the windbreak is
of material advantage to the fruit grower.
If cut down close, and kept wider at the
bottom than at the top, it will stand wet and
1 890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
171
cold, anil cattle ln-owsing. Hut its growth
is slow. If to bo used more largely for
hedges, we would have to find a way how to
propogateit; perhaps by root cuttings. The
hedge is impenetrable. Small l>irds like to
nest in it, and the fruitgrower might grow
it if for no other purpose than for the pro-
tection of birds.
Apples as Food. "What shall we do
with our fruit ? "' asks Sec'y Woolverton in
his essay. People should be educated to its
use, he says : It is more than a luxury but
not appreciated much as food. Some even
fear ill results from its free use. Meat is
one of the most expensive diets, and the ill
results from an excessive meat diet are often
laid to the use of fruits. Good physicians
say that ten barrels of Apples laid in store
in the fall are the most economical invest-
ment. Let every farmer plant so he will
have a constant supply of fruit the whole
year round.
Apples are also excellent for horses, cows,
etc., fully as good as Carrots for horses, and
as good as Turnips for cows.
This points out a way how to relieve our
market.s of the poor stuff, and keep only the
choicest for market.
Requisites of Successful Potato
Culture.
A. P. REID, CUMBERLAND CO., SIE.
These are, early planting and plenty of
potash.
Very little more need be said on the sub-
ject. In view of this increased difficulty of
getting the Potato crop, consequent upon
new enemies and bad seasons, it behooves
us to plant early, as experience tells us that
early planted Potatoes, and the early varie-
ties are the ones that come oflE victorious in
these days.
To secure rapid growth and maturity be-
fore blight days in August or September,
we need early planting and better culttire
than allowed by the older methods. As to
food, the Potato should have plenty of
pota.sh, which element is best secured in
common wood ashes. Try your wood ashes
on the Potatoes this year, while following
out the injunction to plant early of early
varieties, and report results. The Potato
crop is an Important one, and should be
studied with a view to overcoming the new
difficulties thrown in its way.
Durable Strawberry Beds.
Jl-DOE SAMl-EL MILLER. MONTGOMERY CO., MO.
People who plant Downing, Triumph de
Gand, Mary Stuart or Downer's Prolific,
and count on a big crop the first season,
will most likely be disappointed, and feel
like discarding them. But the year follow-
ing if properly cared for, the plants will
show a different condition, and continue to
bear well for years, if dressed and fertilized
and managed right.
In an old vineyard of mine there have
been Mary Stuarts for ten years, and therr
is plenty of fruit every year, none ever
transplanted, nor is there a staminate vari-
ety within one hundred yards of them.
It being a pure pistilate, gives rise to the
question whether this fertilizing is of as
much consequence as we are led to believe.
The time is now on hand when new
beds will be set out with plants of this
delicious and indispensable fruit, the result
of which will depend much upon the man-
ner in which the work is done, and upon the
kind of plants set out. .Some tell us that
the top soil should never be turned under,
and in trenching soil mo.st people adhere
to that doctrine. Now I know in some
soils, this is not sound doctrine, for I have
seen when the soil was about eight inches
deep, that it was put under, and four
inches of the subsoil clay brought to the
stirface. This was in the fall. The follow-
ing spring, this subsoil was as fine and
mellow as need be, a good coat of manure
having been put on the fall before. It was
set with Strawberry plants, furnished by
me. These plants were not allowed to bear
a berry, the blossoms all having been picked
off, and all runners were also thus treated.
The following season the gardener invited
me to see his Strawberries. Such a crop I
never saw since, and that was near thirty
years ago. I am satisfied that I could have
picked a peck of fruit without moving two
steps in any direction. The plants were a
foot high, fruit stalks nearly the same, and
the fruit literally piled up under the leaves.
The varieties were Bishops' Orange and
PRUNING HOOK FOR BUSH FRUITS.
Early Scarlet. In another instance a friend
came to me in September, I think in 184S,
and asked me if he might expect some fruit
from fall-set plants the following season y
Already at that time I advocated fall pl.int-
ing under favorable conditions, and told
him so. So he got good plants, Hovey Seed-
ling and Large Early Scarlet, and was told
how to set them. The following summer
he asked me to see his berries. I did so; if
ever a man felt small I did. In these fall-
set plants was a crop of fruit that would
set in the shade the best on my half acre.
The way he had managed them was as fol-
lows : His garden was in good condition
with a foot of surface soil. This he threw
out two feet wide one side of his little patch,
covered the clay subsoil three inches deep
with well rotten stable manure, dug this in
and then put on the next strip of top soil.
This was done across the bed and the soil
first thrown out wheeled over to finish.
Here he set his plants, and when the
weather got cold, he covered the bed with
coarse fresh stable manure.
The largest crop of large berries that I
ever grew was upon ground trenched 18
inches, weirmixed and a good coat of man-
ure dug in at the time. If the ground is
worked 18 or 20 inches deep and well
manured, and properly mulched, it must be
a very dry summer that will effect plants
growing thereon.
It will be well for those who intend plant-
ing Strawberry beds to take a hint from the
foregoing. A half acre will bring in more
profit if well managed, than two acres as
the work is usually done. There is much
less ground to keep in order, the fruit will
be more abundant, and larger, which saves
cost-.in picking.
Whoever prepares ground in this way,
and plants Bubach No. .5, Gandy, and such
varieties, may be astonished at the result if
they never tried it before. Last season I
had Bubachs, that I could pick a quart in
less than three minutes.
COMMENTS BY READERS.
A deparlmfnt to which all are invited to send notes
of experience and observation concerning topics that
recently have been treated on in this Journal, Many
such contributions monthly are welcome.
Currants in Tree Form. T notice that in
answer to all inquiries as to the pruning of Cur-
rants the fruit men state that the tree form does
well enough in England, but will not gi\'e good
results here. I would like to know, why, and
from what experience they speak. I have a friend
with a small plantation (part of them fourteen
years old) all trained as trees, j.f., only one or
two stalks or trunks being allowed to grow from
the ground. The crop is wonderful. I think he
hus one-half of an acre, and has to ship to New
York because he raises too many for our market
here. I have one-quarter of an acre three yeara
in bearing trained by my friend in tree form.
The crop is e.veellent and very profitable. I ship
all I rai.se. Besides this I have one one-quarter
acres coming into bearing^ this year, and three
acres next year, all trained as trees. Now it
there is any real reason why I should not train
that way, 1 want to know it now, so I can let the
three acres grow up in bush form.— F. S. W.,
Bath, N. T.
A Prunino Hook for Biish Fruits The
illustration of a bush pruner, in an earlier
number of Popular Gardening reminds me
of one in use by berry growers here. It ig quite
simple, being made of an old rake handle and
file. The illustration shows the hooked shape
of the sharpened blade. It is bent shghtly after
being driven into the handle. On the handle are
tacked two straps to make the hold good. The
two advantages this hook has over the one shown
are, first, the operator can stand back and reach
into the bushes ; second, the hook can be run in
and draw the cut brush into the row ready for
being carried out It also permits the use of
both hands and can be used for taking water
sprouts and small limbs from low growing fruit
trees.— B. H. Ciu<}tmnn, Cuyahoga I'ounty, (j.
Grapes Under Glass. I notice in your
March number in the article on "Grapes under
Glass," several statements that I think would be
decidedly misleading to one commencing in this
branch of horticulture. On the subject of lean-
to vineries your correspondent writes that the
vines should be planted along the brick wall.
This would be a great mistake, and I think that
iuiy horticulturist on reflection, even if he has
had no practical experience, will admit the great
advantage of plauting along the front of the
house, and training up the vines under the glass
where they can have the full benefit ot the light
and heat. Under "Planting and Care" your
correspondent recommends the fruiting of eight
feet of cane during the third season, and the
fruiting of the cane the entire length ot the
rafter the fourth season. This I should expect
would result in very seriously injuring the cane
during the fifth season, and probably in totally
ruining it during the sixth season, and that the
Grapes during these years would be of poor
quality, should the grower be fortunate enough
to bring them to an eatable condition. The first
great mistake that beginners are sure to make is
to overcrop their \nnes, and to follow the above
advice would be doing it with a vengeance. Your
correspondent advises a much higher tempera-
ture for «nes in the heated G rapery than I have
found it necessary or desirable to maintain,
especially up to the time when the buds begin to
develop; and during the blossoming period when
\nnes need to be kept quite wann during fertili-
zation I have found a temperature of 75 degrees
during the day time all sufBcient. .Such high
temperature as 85 to SO degrees are to be avoided
rather than desired, and only permitted under
the bright sunshine, and with a good circulation
of air.— D. M. iJuniUng, Cayuga Co., N. T.
The English Spahhow. Some of the young
gentlemen of the town, decided to hold an oyster
supper. They chose sides and agreed to kill
sparrows to see who would have to furnish the
supper, the loosing side ( the side who killed the
smallest number) to pay for the supper. The
interest of farmers and their sons was awakened
and they joined in the sport. Their method was
to go at night with lanterns to the sheds and lofts
where the sparrow resorts. The birds fluttering
around the lights were easil.v dispatched with a
sort of small paddle made out of a shingle or
other similar light material.— F. TI'. IT , Chatham,
Ontario, Can.
Le Conte Peak as Stock. In recent num-
bers of Popular Gardening I notice that one
writer condemned as utterly worthless the Le
Conte Pear as a stock for other Pears. Here in
the south it is the very best stock we can get ;
other varieties grafted on it do remarkably well.
Have tried the French Pear as a stock, and find
it of no value whatever. Le Conte Pear cut-
tings grow readily, sometimes growing as much
as six or seven feet in one season just from slips
put out in the fall or winter.— S. L. Bishop, Ga.
All reports from the south are pretty well
agreed that the Le Conte is good stock for Pears
and even Apples.— Ed.
172
POPULAR GARDENING.
May,
Aphis.
Thrips.
The Insect Pests of Pot Plants.
The higher temperature of the advancing
season, and the thrifty succulent plant
growth which is its result, offer conditions l
more favorable than at any other time to
the rapid multiplication of insect foes in the
greenhouse, and call for incessant watchful-
ness and prompt action on the part of the
owner, who desires to save his plants from
serious injury, or from being rendered alto-
gether and entirely worthless.
In the accompanying illustration are
shown the most common and most destruc-
tive of these green-
hoxise pests, both
greatly enlarged and
in life size.
Aphis. Every ob-
servant tiller of the
soil is acquainted
with various species
of aphis or plant
louse, green, black or
blue, for there is no
kind of tree, shrub or
plant known to be
exempt from the at-
tacks of one or more
of these hundreds of
species. While often
giving much trouble
to the fruit grower
and vegetable gard-
ener, they are still
more dangerous and
obnoxious to the
grower of plants
under glass, as he
offers them shelter, a most congenial tem-
perature, and the food they like.
The old, well-tried and reliable preven-
tive remedy for this pest is fumigation with
Tobacco stems regularly once or even twice
a week. An improved and perhaps safer
method is that of evaporating strong To-
bacco tea in little tin boxes or troughs fas-
tened upon the heating pipes. If a sufficient
number of Lady bugs are put in the green-
house, and there colonized, plant lice will
give no further trouble. As an out-door
remedy we would recommend the kerosene
emulsion, sprayed forcibly upon the affected
plants. Submerging plants or branches in
water of about 130' Fahrenheit, will also rid
them of plant lice, but the kerosene remedy
is safer and more reliable.
Rep Spider. This insect is so small as to
be hardly visible with the naked eye, yet it
is doing great mischief, as they multiply
very rapidly, attack the leaves from the
underside, where they work under the pro-
tection of a tine web, and suck out the juices
of the plant. Fortunately these insects
cannot endure a moist atmosphere or much
wet, and are therefore most readily held in
check by frequent syringing and keeping the
atmosphere continuously moist. Another
pretty sure remedy is the cautious applica-
tion of Tobacco fumes. The heating pipes
may be painted with a mixture of sulphur
and oil, or flower of sulphur placed upon
metal plates or pans around the plants,
where it is exposed to the sun.
Scale. The brown scale shown in illus-
tration is the most common form of this,
roundish or hemispherical in shape, and
covered with a brown, tumid, scale-like skin.
The young scale, as soon as hatched, at once
attaches itself to the branch, and here re-
mains. It thrusts its powerful beak into the
stem or leaf, and fattens on the juices of the
plant. These insects multiply very rapidly,
and often do considerable mischief. Spong-
ing the plants with the kerosene emulsion
or a strong alkaline solution is the remedy
• usually found effective. Often the scales
adhere so closely to their fastenings that
they can only be dislodged by the use of a
stiff brush.
Thrips. They are very small insects of
wonderful agility, and often very destructive
among plants. The perfect insect has wings
and is of blackish color; the larva? are much
smaller, wingless, and of lighter color. They
may usually be found underneath the leaves
of Fuchsias, Azaleas, Ferns, Palms, etc.,
and down in the sheaths of the foliage of
Orchids. The perfect insect has a habit of
hiding out of sight when the leaf is touched,
and consequently is seldom seen. Whitish
patches, usually on the underside of the
leaves, and spots of black fluid betray the
Bed Spider.
INSECT PESTS OF POT PLANTS.
Scale.
Mealy Bug.
presence of the foe. The larva as well
as the perfect insect injui-e the plants
by puncturing the outer skin, and sucking
the juices of the leaf. The foliage of plants
should be frequently examined, and when-
ever thrips are discovered, thoroughly
sponged with soap water or a solution of Fir
tree oil. Fumigation with Tobacco stems,
if repeated on several successive days or
nights, or evaporating Tobacco tea, are also
usually effective in ridding plants of thrips.
Mealy Bug. In this we have an oval
insect with a number of legs, and the body
covered with a white, mealy, cottony sub-
stance. It is especially fond of Stephanotis,
Gardenias and similar plants; multiplies
very rapidly. It is a pest hard to get rid of
after having,.once taken possession of a
heated greenhouse. It is also very trouble-
some "in Graperies, as it not only infests
shoots, foliage and woodwork, but also
works among the berries of the bunches.
The same solutions advised for thrips may
be used for this pest, but thoroughness is
always necessary. Be sure to clear every
plant, also paint or whitewash the whole
structure, and try to get rid of the very last
of these insects. In cold houses mealy bug is
rarely seen.
The Ocean as a Tree Planter.
Nature employs many agencies and de-
vices to distribute seeds and plants over her
vast domain. It is not generally known,
perhaps, says a writer in Youth's Compan-
ion, what an important part the sea plays in
carrying.or planting seeds.
I have seen in small bays and sheltered
coves along the coast of the Bay Islands,
Florida, and among the West Indies, thou-
sands of bushels of tropical seeds of every
size and form imaginable, from little things
not half so large as a kernel of Wheat up to
the great Cocoanut, which when covered
with its thick husk ofteu will not go into a
water bucket; flat, rounded, oblong, angled,
wrinkled and irregular seeds, with eyes, and
covered with curious markings, a strange
and interesting medley of all sorts of vege-
table productions.
In many places they cover acres of surface
in the water, or are piled up in regular ricks
along the shore.
In most parts of the tropics there are one
or more rainy seasons in the year, during
which, often in a very short time, an im-
mense amount of water falls, which carries
vast quantities of seeds into the streams,
and so into the sea. Sometimes the forests
reach to the shore, and the fruits that grow
on them drop directly into the water.
Thrown thus upon the bosom of the sea,
these little wanderers start out on their
journey for unknown
shores; it may be days,
months or years; alone,
or in great drifts; per-
haps to be stranded on
a cold, inhospitable
coast to perish, or to
land on some bright
tropical beach to find
a home as warm and
sunny as the one they
have left.
Myriads of them, no
doubt, become water-
logged, and finally
sink to the bottom.
Little is known of
the length of time the
germs of seed will live
in the ocean. I have
seen Cocoanuts float-
ing about along tropi-
cal beaches, with roots
a foot and a half long,
and leaves fully twice
that length, ready to grow as soon as they
were thrown upon the land, and apparently
in the most perfect vigor. I am certain that
the young Mangroves will live on the sea for
a whole year.
Nature kindly watches over the little
wanderers, and though, perhaps, many of
them are unfitted for the new situation and
perish, others more hardy or better adapted
to the circumstances, spring up and live.
In a few years a colony is established, and
the botanist wandering that way finds with
astonishment and delight trees and plants
growing luxuriantly, which the books say
should not be found within a thousand miles
of the spot.
A number of instances are related, by this
same writer, of trees found in localities
where only the sea could have planted them.
On the Island of Trinidad he found a
splendid "cocal" extending for fourteen
miles along the beach, which is believed to
have grown from a shipwrecked cargo of
Cocoanuts.
A group of low, sandy keys near the coast
of Balize is now nearly covered with a
growth of vegetation, though old settlers
teU of a time when nothing grew on them,
and they were mere heaps of barren sand
piled up by the sea. It is well-known that
the coral atolls of the Pacific are clothed
with vendure as soon as they are built up
high enough above the surf for trees and
plants to live on them.
But one of the most striking cases of the
work of planting on an extensive scale
by the ocean may be found on the south
coast of Florida. No tropical trees or plants
are found living in the northern part of the
State. Yet in the southern part more than
seventy species of trees are met with, besides
a large number of shrubs and plants that
belong nowhere else except in the American
tropics.
The Gulf Stream bears along a vast quan-
tity as seeds of the West Indies, Central and
South America, and flowing around the
twelve hundred miles of coast of peninsula
it kindly .scatters some of them.
On the lower half of the State, and among
the Keys, are found the Machineel, Shore
1889.
POPULAR GARDENING.
173
Grape, Li,t;iiumvitii>. Caper, Lancewood,
Mahogany, Royal Palm, ami many other
well-known trees, all of which were un-
donbtedly colonized by the sen, and brought
up as seeds from Cuba or the Bahamas.
The vesietation along the shore, and especial-
ly on the Keys, is decidedly tropical in its
character. One might wander for days
among the islands of Florida reefs, and
never be able to tell by the vegetation that
he was not in theWestlndies or the Bahamas.
Possibilities of a Small Garden.
JOHN B. LAIl'LEY, M. D., FKANKUS CO., M.\SS.
While riding about, I have for years made
observations of what farmers call a home
garden; a small, enclosed patch of ground
containing a good supply of late Sweet Corn,
two or three dozen poles and a row of brush
with a few late Beau and Pea vines cling-
ing to them, plenty of nice Rhubarb, and a
few bushes of grass-choked and worm-eaten
Currants. Aside from this little piece of
land, everything betokens the thrifty and
successful farmer.
If I speak to the owner about his garden,
I invariably am told this story: "I set out,
last spring, to have a good garden this year;
but somehow I got behind in my work, so It
was late when I planted. Then the seed,
bought at the store, was poor, and failed to
come up; by this time the weeds had a good
start and I let them have possession, in fact,
it don't pay to fiiss with a garden, for you
can buy your vegetables of peddlers at the
door cheaper than you can raise them. "
This answer led me to try and see how
much I could make my little garden of 18
square rods produce. The accompanying
diagram illustrates my plan.
Along the front and at the gates are flow-
ering shrubs. A row of Currant bushes ex-
tend along the back; f is my Asparagus
bed; b Strawberries; e my wife's flower
garden; d Rhubarb; c cold-frames.
Beside the walks at gg were planted
Hender.son's " First of All" Pea April 11th,
giving US first mess of Peas June 18th;
vines were removed July 3rd and 200 Celery
plants set in the same place.
In the plot h I planted American "Wonder
Pea in rows 3J^ feet apart; with Early Rose
Plat k was filled with Cucumbers, Summer
Squash, Corn, late Peas, pole Beans and
Tomatoes, etc. The Cucumbers, Squash
and Com can be replaced by Spinach, which
sells very readily in early spring.
Plat 1 had Water and Musk Melons.
Vines were removed September .'ith, and
Spinach sowed in drills, which will be out
of the way next spring in time for planting
Melons again.
The following is a statement of the profits,
viz: 1. All the nice fresh vegetables the
family needed. 2. Sold Peas .*3, Parsnips
.*3, Beets .*2, Carrots SI, Celery at 75 cents
per dozen— ?34, Lettuce -?10, Spinach $12;
a total of «.W.
To make sure of success use plenty of fine
stable manure well mixed with the soil.
Keep down all weeds, and soil loose by fre-
quent hoeing. Last, but not least, buy your
seeds of a reliable seed firm, and carefully
firm the soil over the newly-sown seeds.
emulate the proverbial green turf of England
and Ireland, it is necessary for us to con-
stantly apply top-dressing of some rich fer-
tilizer that will stimulate growth, and replace
in a manner the constant drain upon its
vitality caused by long-continued cutting.
Frequent use of lawn mower encourages
growth for a greater or less period, but a re-
action will take place should the soil be
neglected. We cannot if we would, remove
every particle of cut grass from the lavvn^
^f
.k
■■I-
ii^^^Mi ii^^M*^^^
PLAN OF SMALL HOME GARDEN.
Potatoes between the rows. Pea vines were
removed June 30th and 200 Celery plants set
out in their place. The Potatoes were dug,
for use in the family, during .July and Aug-
ust, leaving the ground cleared In readiness
for banking the Celery in September.
In the plats i, I set out Boston Curled
Lettuce plants from my cold frames, which
■were used and sold out of the way in time
to sow Parsnips, Carrots, Salsify and Beets.
Along the walks, d d. were planted Snap
Beans, which in turn were replaced by 200
Celery plants.
Principles of Lawn Planting and
Management.
Nature never fails to be pleasing in her
informal ways and arrangements, and to
attract the eye in her endless variations.
Where her suggestions are followed in the
laying out of the home grounds, the effects
must always be more satisfactory than
where the artificial touches are too plainly
visible. The more natural and simple a
lawn, large or small, says Josiah Hoopes.
in Weekly Tribune, the more attractive to
refined taste. The grading should not be
regular and formal, unless the area is very
contracted. An undulating surface pleases
the eye, recalling the natural scenery of
fields and woods. In addition, it imparts an
air of greater extent to the inclosure than if
the surface be dead level, or uniform even
slope. Permit a portion of the lawTi to re-
main open; nothing can be prettier than an
expanse of rich-green, close-shaven turf. I
The grouping system is always more j
pleasing than the hap-hazard manner of dot- j
ting trees and shrubs all over the place. ,
Around the outer boundary, and especially \
fronting north, is generally a good position
for forming belts of mixed trees, but should
these obstruct a cherished view, an opening
may be made for a glimpse of
the desired object. These belts or j
clumps should present an easy
flowing outline, similar to many
outer edges of our woods, and all
pretence of formality in arrange-
ment must be scrupulously
avoided. Even the few trees
placed for shade in reasonable
distances of the dwelling may be
so disposed as to assume a natural
aspect. A little group of two or
three specimens will frequently
break up the monotony of an un-
artistic disposition of the trees.
Have few walks, the fewer the
better; they are expensive to con-
struct properly, are not handsome
at best, and require constant at-
tentionto keep in condition.
Above all, avoid the vases and
statues that some people place
over their grounds. The idea of
mixing such artificial appliances
with pure natural ob.iects like beautiful trees
and shrubs must be repugnant to any person
of discernment in home surroundings.
When this mania for pottery of a low degree
shall die out, and the unadorned, attractive
garden spots, as of old, regain their popu-
larity, a great point will have been reached
in American gardening; not until then will
our work prove creditable.
The face of the lawn is of paramount im-
portance. No matter how handsome our
trees and walks, neglect of the turf spoils
the general effect. To reach perfection, and
■■1
[Houte-
■L...-^
THE SHRUBBY CINQUEFOIL.
and so there is always a small portion re.
maining which acts as protection to the
roots. It is slovenly practice to permit all
the clippings to lay on the surface, and it
proves injurious to the turf, so that the work
of the improved lawn-rake is both useful
and ornamental.
The Shrubby Cinquefoil.
The genus Potentilla embraces about a
dozen species of native plants, most of
which are natives of the northern states and
British America. They are of the great
Rose family which embraces most of our
cultivated fruits, as well as the Queen of
Flowers and some other favorites of the
flower garden. Unlike the blossoms of most
members of the Rosacea" those of the Po-
tentilla or Cinquefoil are yellow without
exception nearly. The beauty of the class
is not of the highest order and yet there
are several species and varieties that are
well worthy of a place in all large plant
collections.
The Shrubby Cinquefoil, the bloom of
which is illustrated herewith, is an interest-
ing member of the genus, and the only one
of a shrubby nature. It is a low bushy
grower and bears many bright yellow
flowers one inch across, from June to Aug.
With respect to color it is a rarity at this
season for we have no other yellow-flower-
ing shrub coming in at that time. In hardi-
ness it is unexcelled being a native of a few
localities in the northern parts of the United
States and the British possessions. It is
also found in northern Europe.
A good course to pursue in cultivating
this shrub is to mass it on a knoll or the
lawTi, or to make it the terminal clump in a
shrub border. It prefers a dry spot. We
find the plant is not generally quoted in
American catalogues, that of Parsons &
Sons Co., Flushing, N. Y., being the only
one at our command as we write in which
it is mentioned.
174
POPULAR GARDENING.
May,
The Dandelion
Dear common flower, that grow'st beside the way,
FrlnginR the dusty road with harmless gold!
First pledge of blithesome May,
Which children pluck, and full of pride uphold—
High-hearted buccaneers— o'erjoyed that they
An Eldodo In the grass have found,
Which not the rich earth's ample round
Maymatch in wealth!— thou art moredear tome
Than all the prouder summer blooms may be.
Gold such as thine ne'er drew the Spanish prow
Through the primeval hush of Indian seas.
Nor wrinkled the lean brow
Of age to rob the lover's heart of ease;
'Tis the spring's largest which she scatters now
To rich and poor alike, with lavish hand.
Though most hearts never understand
To take it at God's value, but pass by
The offered wealth with unrewarded eve.
Thou art my tropics and my Italy ;
To look at thee unlocks a warmer clime ;
The eyes thou givest me
Are in the heart and heed no space or time ;
Not In mid-June the golden-culrassed bee
Feels a more summer-like, warm ravishment
In the white Lily's breezy tent.
His fragrant Sybaris, than I. when first
From the dark green thy yellow circles burst.
Caraway.
Down past the Savory bed and the Parsley,
And close to the tunible-fiown picket fence.
The Caraway grew that grandma planted
And there It has been growing ever since.
Though Caraway is not fair to look at.
Though you may not fancy Its taste. Indeed,
Tet still it shall grow there down In the garden
Because It was Grandma's " meetln' seed."
— Mary E. Wilkins, in Wide Awake.
Start the lawn mower.
Lilies must be planted deep.
New York Arbor Day, May 2d.
Sharpen np the hoe : no we?dy garden can be
satisfactory.
We know of no more grateful flower for halt-
shady situations than the Pansy.
For pure ornament, let alone usefulness, no
hedge can exceed the Japan Quince in May,
On the PoptTLAB Gahdening grounds the
Strawberry bed was rolled directly after rolling
the lawn.
We think better of our readers than to sup-
pose a single one is without the hardy Panicle-
flowered Hydrangea on their lawns.
Would you skip the ravages of codling worm,
tent caterpillar, and curculio, then you must
spray as directed in past issues of this journal.
Fight the Insects, Wonders may often be
accomiilif lied in ridding a neighborhood of pests
by an early, decided and concerted action of
neighbors.
For heavy, moist soils, many vegetable seeds
may be planted in ridges. Usually we prefer
sowing on the level as we prefer level to hill cult-
ure generally.
Bleeding of the Grape vine, when pruned in
spring, can easily be stopped by passing a red-
hot iron slowly across the cut surface. German
growei-s say so.
Okra fiber is now highly spolsen of as cheap
and superior material for making cloth as well
as rope and bagging. Okra growing may yet
become an important industry in Florida.
Heliotropes make excellent bedders. They
bloom constantly and profusely, and their beau-
tifully fragrant flowers are always in demand
for cut flower uses. There can not be too many.
Mistakes in horticulture are usually much
more serious than those in agriculture. The
latter can frequently be remedied in a season; the
former often show their ill effects for a life-time.
Pink-Eyed Trillinm, One frequently sees
mention made of the White Trillium, and more
rarely of the dark red variety; but I have not
seen anything concerning the most beautiful of
all Trilliums to my mind, the pink-eyed one. It
is like the pure white in form, and delicacy of
coloring, e.-ceepting a crescent-shaped blotch of
majenta pink at the base of each petal. Can
anyone tell the botanical name of this variety?—
E7(7cr',v Wife.
Carriage Corners. One of those little practical
ideas so simple that we wonder why we had not
thought ol it long ago, is carried out at the Cor-
nell Experiment grounds in the use of carriage
corners for strengthening muslin-covered frames
for use over hot beds and cold frames. These
can be bought from the hardware store at about
ten cent per pound, and might be put to profit-
able use in strengthening many a weak and
faltering comer in various places.— F. TT. Card.
Shading Glass with Faint. An English gar-
dener recommends the following simple mixture
for painting glass in greenhouses, etc., to ob-
scure the strong rays of the sun, viz : white lead,
Brunswick green, and turpentine made into a
thin paint, and appUed with a brush. No oil
should be added, or it will be difficult to wash off
again. If done on a fine day, this paint need be
applied but once in the season, and with the aid
of a Uttle soda in the water it can easily be
washed off again.
Uanettia bifiora, a climbing vine largely ad-
vertised this season as a new thing, was intro-
duced from South America in 180ti, now nearly
84 years ago. On account of its tendency to
mildew, and the fact that it requires a very
moist and warm atmosphere to keep in health, it
has lieen abandoned as a plant for house cultiva-
tion long ago. This attempt at re-introduction,
we are afraid, will cause much disppointment,
and perhaps some hard words.— J. A. Marshall,
MahiDiing Co., O.
The White Grub. A neighbor sometime since
told me that early Potatoes planted in the rows
with Strawljerries would receive aU the "atten-
tions" of grubs and allow the Strawberry
plants to grow in peace. He says a hill of Pota-
toes once every six or seven feet in every other
row will do. The Potatoes can be dug as soon as
ripe and the runners trained in the space occu-
pied by the Potato hills. I have never tried the
plan but give it for the benefit of any who would
like to experiment.— FraiiA' Linn.
A Home Gymnasium, Let us turn the garden,
the fruit orchard and the lawn into the gymna-
sium for the family. Such would be far
more interesting and beneficial to all than the
more popular gymnasium of the day. Let the
little ones have their flower beds, and fruit trees.
Their rivalry for the greatest numt)er of Tulips,
the finest Hyacinths, and the very biggest Pan-
sles, will develop a healthier future than the
more common and exclusive cultivation of the
love of dress and society.— «. A. Pleas.
Effect of Coal Ashes. On part of a piece of
ground, coal ashes were put on, and the rows
sowed lengthwise so that part of each row came
where the ashes were applied, and part not. Peas
did splendidly up to where they struck the coal
ashes, and from there they were yellow, sickly,
half-size, and no crop. Beets on the contrary
grew faster, were much larger, and had a health-
ier look where the ashes wei'e. Cucumbei's were
sickly and yellow. More expeiiments in this
line would be interesting. — XV. T. Alan.
A Hale Appointment. Decidedly commendable
is the appointment of Mr. J. H. Hale as
special agent for work on nurseries, seed farms,
etc.. In the division of Agriculture of the forth-
coming eleventh census. The branch of horti-
culture is under the general charge of Mr. Morti-
mer Whitehead of New Jersey, and Mr. Hale's
work win tie in his department. It will involve
CaTTkwc curnei-s.
Ne Plus Ultra Sweet Corn. During last sea-
son we made a trial of several varieties of Sweet
Corn, some of old and others of a kind unknown
among which was one alone named received of
J. J. H. Gregory. The appearance of the seed
did not recommend the varie-
ty, it being small and inferior
looking, but upon coming up,
it grew well, and when fit to
use it was a surprise ; although
the ears were small or short,
the kernels were long, tender
and very sweet; for a late
kind we consider it as about
equal to Evergreen.— IT. B. Teomaw), TnUand
Co., Conn.
Horticulturist's Bule Book, It atfords us
much pleasure to speak of Prof. L. H. Bailey's
newest work, pubUshed under the above title,
for it is certainly " a good thing," and should be
in every landtillers' hands. In the large lot of
interesting and valable material which is here
collected, we find most excellent summaries of
remedies for insects and plant diseases, recipes
for gi-afting waxes, paints, etc., tables of ana-
lyses, and many other things of daily use and
value to the horticulturist. Price 81.00. Pub-
lished by the Garden Pub. Co., New York City.
Why not dig the Dandelion from the lawn, to
use the tops for spring greens, and the roots
for root beer? Steep these and some Burdock
root, and Swamp Alder bark, a little Wild Cherry
bark. Sassafras, and perhaps other roots and
herbs in sufficient water, sweeten with molasses,
add a piece of yeast cake, and let ferment just
enough to get the liquid clear and sparkling, and
you will have a beverage that might take the
place of tea and coffee at your meals during
spring, without their objectionable effects, and
far superior as a tonic and appetizer to anything
that the doctor or druggist could furnish you.
Prize for Spraying. Mr. P. C. Lewis, manu-
facturer of the Lewis Combination Force Pumps,
offers a prize worth $72 " to the party who can
show the best results from spraying their trees
the coming season, provided the spraying is done
with one of his spraying outfits. The pump is
now well-known all over the States and Canada,
and used by many fruit growers. It costs SS.50.
Anyone having a dozen trees can enter the con-
test. We only anticipate it will be a most diffi-
cult matter to make the award in fairness to the
contestants. Who will be able to judge of the
exact character and amount of the beneflts de-
rived from the spraying ?
A Curculio Swing. Modern methods of fight-
ing the Plum curculio come and sometimes go,
but the old reliable jarring process remains in
deserved fa^•or with many very good and
thorough fruit growers. Of course, they must
be good and thoro^igh, otherwise they could not
be entirely successful with this method. As
proof that thorough jarring is a reliable curculio
remedj', a fruitgrower at a recent horticulture
meeting in Michigan told that his children had
put a swing between two of his Plum trees, and
used it freely in the spring. The result was aU
sound Plums on the two trees, and plenty of
curculio on all the rest. The jarring is all right,
if only repeated often enough We would also
prefer poultry about to pick up the fallen wee\ils.
Rubber Bands for Asparagus. Don't over-
look the advantages of the use of rubtier bands
in bunching Asparagus fttr market. Prof. W. J.
Green of the Ohio Experiment Station is the in-
PUSSY OF SERVICE IN PROTECTING THE STRAWBERRY PLAT.
a stud}' of nui-series, fruits, flowers, etc., through
the United States. We congratulate Mr. Hale,
but we congratulate the cause of horticulture
still more.
Lima Bean Planter. Such is said to be invent-
ed in California it consists of a cast wheel con-
taining pods or fingers, which grasi) the Beans as
the wheel revolves, each picking up one or two
Beans and holding them firmly until deposited
in the mouth of the tube from which they are
conveyed to the ground. The wheel can be so
adjusted as to plant the Beans at any desired
distance apart We will have to double our
Lima Beans area on the Popni..\R Gardening
grounds several times, however, before we shall
feel the necessity of investing in this tool.
ventor of this plan; and a favoite way with him,
last season, was to slip a rubber band over an
ordinary teacup, holding it near the top of the
cup. Then the cup is filled with the Asparagus
to be bunched, thrusting the heads of the shoots
downward into the cup. When the cup is full
the rubber band is pulled over the top of the
cup upon the Asparagus, the bunch removed
from the cup and another band slipped over the
bunch near the toiis. This makes a bunch of
about the right size and leaves the top of the
bunch nicely rounded. All that remains to be
done is to square the buts with a sharp knife.
Forest Influence, An authority on forest cul-
ture, W. H. H. Murray, finds that in June the tip
of a Maple bough having two or three leaves.
1889.
POPULAR GARDENING.
175
iiist'itod iu a pint bottle and hermetkally si'aliMi,
will precipitate from twelve to twenty Kraius of
water in a few hours. From this Mr. Murray
makes tlie following calculation : A Maple ti-ee
of eight or ten inches in diameter, well formed
and gi-owthful. has on the average twenty-five
thousand leaves on it, and it is a sate computa-
tion to say that such a tree will throw off in the
siwc-e of every twelve hours three hundred and
forty thousand grains weight of water. Now an
acre will easily contain six or seven hundred
such trees, so that from a single acre of forest
land three thousand eight hundred and seventy-
five gallons of pure water are thrown off and
distributed through the body of the surrounding
atmosphere in every twelve hours— Our readers
may draw their own conclusions as to the bene-
ficial influence of such explanation on the earth
and air.
Catalogue PromiseB. I believe I could make
money by going into the plant and flower
business and telling the exact truth in my cata-
logues. For past dozen years these radiant pub-
lications have led us to expect too much in many
directions, are ambiguous, so that when we
buyers are disappointed, the sellers can crawl
out of it. I instance " Clematis " and " Khodo-
dendron " and "Auratum Lily." .My wife and
daughter hold up the brilliant pictures of "Moou
flowers", with the sides of rural cottages covered
with bloom, and ask one another when " papa's
vine will have any posies on ", and wonder, what
day that dollar-and-a-half " Clematis " will give
up the ghost— and if Rhododendrons bloom like
Century plants.every hundred years— and what a
pity that the " Mahonia aquifolia " has to be "hid
under a bushel " of leaves every winter instead
of " cheefing with its gorgeous green foliage."
Between the exuberant fancies of florists, and
the sarcasms of women, my life is made un-
happy. You Mr. Editor, cannot remedy the
latter, but you might do something to restrain
the former.— J. B. D.. Pa.
Sog8 for Fertilizer, Some of the horticultu-
ral papers are insisting that we most inaugurate
a dog killing crusade, which is not a bad idea.
The land is infested with an army of domestic
brutes that are useless, or worse than that, are a
sheep-killing, cattle-worrying, howling lot of
demons. The states are paying a large amount
of bounty yearly tor sheep that are killed by
these savages. But a dog may be a noble crea-
ture, a companion almost human, a friend, de-
voted and self-sacriflcing, faithful, true and
brave. I agree with the Rural New Yorker, that
it would pay millions into the pockets of the
people, if they would inaugurate a common
movement to kill off the cui-s, poodles and no-
breeds of all sorts and introduce Scotch Collies
as freely as they have Holstein and Jersey cattle.
The dog should be as valuable as a cow. It was
the first animal tamed and made useful to primi-
tive man ; but it sadly needs improvement to
adopt it to our present needs and conditions.
There are millions of dogs in America that should
be buried at the root of some good Grape vine
and made useful.— E. P. Powell.
Hew Tigridiaa. Among the many new si>ecies
of plants which Mr. C. G. Pringle of Vermont
has discovered in his botanical travels through
Arizona. Mexico, Southern Texas, etc., are two
new Tigridias. The first, T. Piinglci (H'of-son),
was first found in Northern Mexico in 18,si by
Mr. A. Buchan Helpburn at a height of li,U00feet,
and a specimen was sent the Royal Gardens at
Kew, England. In LSST Mr. Pringle re-discovered
the plant in the state of Chihuahua, and sent
specimens to the Botanic gardens at Cambridge,
Mass., where Mr. Watson, curator of the Herba-
rium of Harvard College, identified it as an un-
described species and named it after Mr. Pringle.
Some of the bult>s which Mr. Pringle brought
home, were sent to the Kew Gardens, and from
these a beautiful colored plate was made tor the
December No. of the Botanical Magazine.
Under cultivation the collected plants soon
double in size of bulb and flowers. But they do not
increase by offsets as much as the T. gramiifiora ^
conchiflora, etc. The flowers surpass those of
grandiflora in their brilliant scarlet wide-spread-
ing outer segments. In Texas, not far from
Laredo, in the fail of '88 when only the dry leaves
and seed pods were visible, Mr. Pringle found
what he supposed was a species of Nemastylis,
and brought home about a hundred bulbs. Sam-
ples of these were sent Mr. Watson who found
it to be a new Tigridia, and named it T. buccifera.
This species has smaller purplish flowers. Like
all of this genus the flowers are short-lived, en-
during hardly twelve hours, but they are very
l>cautiful and each bulb l)ears in long succesion
from si-x to thirty flowers. We believe this is
the first and only species that has been found in
the United States. Mr. Wat.son in his descrip-
tion says that the s|>ocics was found by Mr.
Pringle in the mountains of Jalisco, Mexico: but
this was a mistake, as Mr. Pringle afterwards
collected it in the original locality which is on
the southern borders of Texas In certain loca-
lities it is very abundant growing as a weed in
cultivated flelds. T. buccifera in cultivation is
grown like the other species, and the bulbs
should be wintered in dry sand in the cellar.—
F. H. ifi)rs/i)i(i, Ma.-<.i.
Flowers in Pot. The past two winters 1 have
had a pit in which I keep such a miscellaneous
assortment of plants as the average amateur
collects. The location of the pit is at the west
end of the house, faces south, and is sheltered on
THE SWING AS A CURCULIO REMEDY.
the north and west by the ground rising rather
abruptly. The entrance is by a door opening
into it from the cellar, and as its only exposed
portion is that covered by glass 'the plates rest-
ing on the earth, and the gable and north part of
the roof being banked with earth and covered
with leaves etc.), it is easy to preser%-e a compa-
ratively uniform temperature. Last winter the
frost falling from the glass as the sun warmed
the air, sometimes froze the leaves on which it
fell, but notwithstanding the repeated freezings,
few of them died soon enough to admit of their
death being laid to that cause, and buds that
were just beginning to appear when the plants
were housed in November, gradually enlarged
until in Februar.v or March they came to full
bloom, and their fading was nearly as longdrawn
as their blooming process. This winter we made
a lightljoard shutter to cover the glass as a pro-
tection from cold and storms of wind and hail as
well. The effect of the use of this has been to
preserve a more even temperature, and as a con-
sequence slightly increased growth and a trifling
shortening of the time necessary for buds to ex-
pand. When colder nights demanded, the shutter
was left down until the sun could shine into the
pit, which owing to its location was not until two
hours after sunrise. During the time of the
" prolonged nights, " 1 was surprised at the length
of time flowers kept perfectly fresh. Violets
have kept two weeks, and were cut for bouquet-s,
and a pink Hepatica, double as a Rose, lasted si.x
weeks. Roses which in summer fade in a day,
in the pit retained their loveliness for a week.
It occurred to me that while a pit without arti-
ficial heat would hardly answer to grow flowers,
one might be employed profitably to keep them
when once grown. Perhaps this has been done
alread.v, though I have not known of it; it would
be a cheap and easy way of keeping a supply on
hand to meet emergencies, provided the change
of temperature had no detrimental effect. Can
someone speak from experience on the subject ?
—Elder's Wife.
New York Floral Notes.
New York florists are congratulating them-
selves on the best Easter they have seen for
several years. Prices were not unusually large,
averaging just about the same as last year, but
the demand was \evy large, being generally re-
garded as much in excess of previous years.
Not only were the church decorations extremely
lavish, but flowers were used by many bodies
which formerly made no decorations at all, and
it seemed as if everyone who could afford to do
so purchased either plants or flowers. Flowers
formed the most favored Easter gift, and they
were worn to excess on that day. It was notice-
able, as it is on the occasion of ever.v festival,that
loose flowei-s or good blooming plants were sold
far more than any other class of designs. Church
memorials usually took this form, instead of the
unmeaning or ugly designs formerly in vogue.
Most of the churches make it u practice of dis-
tributing these decorations when done with them
to the hospitals.
Naturally Lilies took the lead in everything.
The cull for these plants was enormous. A
week before Easter some of the growers were
rather anxious to get rid of these flowers, under
the impression that the market would be over-
stocked, but it is doubtful whether there were
any left over on the Saturday night, and it was
hard to buy them on Saturday afternoon.
.\zaleas. Hydrangeas, Lilac and Genista were
favorite pot plants, and so were pot bulbs, es-
pecially Dutch Hyacinths. Small pot Lilacs
were seen arranged in gilt baskets, tied with
Lilac ribbon. These plants were usually arrang-
ed in fancy baskets, when intended for gifts,
and graceful baskets of growing Ferns were also
used as Easter presents.
Some of the fashionable silversmiths were in-
iiching on the florists' province by selling
.aitiful silver baskets, made for table decor-
ations, filled with growing Ferns.
Roses and Orchids were certainly most favored
iu fine cut flowers, either for a gift in the form
of loose flowers, or as a corsage. All winter
women have worn few flowers besides Violets or
occasional Pansies, but on Easter Day they
blossomed out in all sorts of gay Roses A quan-
tity of very fine Jacqueminots were in the mar-
ket, and these were largely used. This Rose Is
always a favorite with women.but fine specimens
of it have not been in the market this season,
except in small quantities, until Easter. Large
or mixed corsage bunches seem permanently re-
tired; from one to three really fine.long-stemmed
Roses is the leading style. With the large hy-
brids, one only is worn, but one sees two or three
Jacqueminot,La France, Mermet, Madame Hoste,
or the like. But as a corsage flower always in
style, worn on all occasions, the Violet invariably
leads. The number of white Violets sold is very
small, compared with the colored ones, partly
because they are never really so fragrant, and
partly because the color is peculiarly associated
with the flower. These flowers have been used
in a great many wa.vs during Lent, the color
being generally regarded as appropriate to the
season. Lent has not been nearly so dull as
usual to the florist ; though there were few large
entertainments, flowers were needed in many
other ways. In the Easter church decorations
there was an effort to use white and pale colored
ribbon among the flowers, but it is to be hoped
this idea will not prevail : it is too suggestive of
millinery.
Easter week promised a quantity of weddings,
some of which called for elaborate decorations.
There were no especially novel features promis-
ed, but a good many Lilacs and Hydrangeas
were reserved for this purpose. Orchids, Orange
blossoms and Lily-of-the-valley are the usual
bridal flowers. One promised innovation is the
giving of flower favors to wedding guests— little
posies tied with ribbon, and having Orange
flowers caught in among the loops. Needless to
say the trade wiU favor this idea.
Some pretty dinner arrangements of green
and gold are made ; gilt baskets are filled with
growing Ferns for a centre-piece, whUe trailing
sprays made of Jonquils'are laid on the cloth at
either end. A good many dainty arrangements
are made of Ferns only. One very pretty idea—
not the work of a professional, was carried out
in green and white. A green silk lable cover
was loosely draped over with white and silver
open-meshed muslin. Scattered irregularly
about the table were small irregularly-shaped
rustic logs filled with Ferns. The accessories
were aU green and white, and it was very dainty.
Fern baskets and Palms are often the only decor-
ation at receptions. Loose bowls of large Roses
have come much in use, both for room and table
decorations.
Carnations were really quite scarce at Easter;
something unusual. Bulbs were not very plenti-
ful either, but this season has been very hard on
them. An old bulb now revived is the Ixia ; a
limited quantity was flowered this spring, and
they proved attractive ; very few people knew
what they were. It is more than likely that they
would pay for a season or two ; for they are very
.pretty, and a novelty. They require the same
treatment as the Freesia.
Emily Lodise Tapux.
176
POPULAR GARDENING.
May,
TO BETVinsEvrKMoWMf
Flam Black Knot. Prompt
ii?e of the knife is an effect-
ive remedy.— Prof. Pientiee.
The Cow Pea. I think the
' Cow Pea ought to be more
generall.v planted than it is.
It is unsurpassed as stock
feed and also good for table
use. Besides they are a benefit to the ground.—
Capt. HoUister, before the Alton Southei-n UHiwix
BortictiUural Society.
Salway Peach. The Salway is one of the best
and most profitable Peaches, on account of its
beauty, very late ripening and other good quali-
ties. Its chief fault seems to be, that it is more
subject to yellows than almost any Peach.— 75. M.
Armstrong, hcfore n Farmcm' liiMitute.
Potash for Beets and Grapes. In an experi-
ment with Sugar Beets.Dr. Goessmann found the
per cent of sugar, when stable manure was used,
to be 7.S, and when sulphate of potash was used
as a fertilizer, the same variety showed 12.78 per
cent., a result almost exactly like that ob-
tained from the Grape by the use of muriate.-
Prof. Taft, Michigan Unrticultural Society.
Keeping Asparagus Fresh. While for one's
own table Asparagus should be cut and cooked
in the same hour, the product of a field may be
kept two or three days, and be fresh and plump
for the market, by standing the bunches in fresh
water and renewing it once in twelve hours,
removing a little of the loose ends of the bunches
with a sharp knife just previous to placing it on
the market.— CTia*. A. Garfield, before the Michi-
gan Horticultural Society.
Site for Pear and Cherry Orchards. Plant
Pears and Cherries on hi;;h rolling land. If it
IS somewhat sandy, it will serve the purpose that
much the better. Plant sixteen feet apart, and
do not fertilize too heavily, simply cultivate well.
Standard Pears are best. I would plant some
trees every five years and have young trees com-
ing on. Early Richmond and English Morello
Cherries are liest.— H'. H. Coidtis, before the
Shau-nce Co. Inatitntc, Kanms.
The Pennsylvania Anemone. Along the shores
of creeks and rills in many parts of the United
States the Pennsylvania Anemone abounds. I
have found that it thrives in any fertile spot even
of dry land, being especially suited to half-
shaded places. Once planted it will thrive per-
petually. It does not require tillage, but may
be naturalized in the wild garden. The flowers
are a beautiful large white and appear freely in
early summer.— Charles Lord.
Effects of Phosphate on Grapes. Professor
Caldwell, in speaking of the effect of fertilizers
before the Western New York Horticultural So-
ciety, cited an instance where wines of a par-
ticularly rich bouquet where made from Grapes
in a district whose soil was peculiarly rich in
phosphate. A^ long treatment of phosphatic fer-
tilizers was given by an experimenter to certain
other lands where this element was less abund-
ant, and, after thirty years, the peculiar bouquet
appeared also in the wine produced from the
latter district.
Baspberries in Ohio. Mr. Trowbridge said that
small canes holding their leaves late will survive
cold that will kill a large rank growth. Jlr.
liOngenecker favored a northern exposure for
Raspberries. Mr. W.J Green slid that .lohnston's
Sweet fruits with the Hilborn. There is no place
with market men for an ever-bearing Raspberry ,
but tor amateurs who wish one, the Erhart is the
best of its class. President Tryon said that very
early Raspberries are mostlprofi table in the Cleve-
land market. Mr. Farnsworth said that the early
and very late sorts are most profitable in Toledo.
—Discu.^sion Ohio Horticulttiral Society.
The Good of Arbor Day. Arbor Day ceremon-
ies, even if they lead to the planting of but few
trees, at least serve to enlist the teachers in the
cause, and to impress the children with the idea
that it is better to plant and care for a tree than
to destroy it. There existed once a necessity tor
destroying forests that crops might be planted .
This necessity matured into an instinct, so that
the first natural tendency of the American lad
is to cut a stick or tree. The tendency of Arbor
Day, then, is to lead to a change of sentiment
among the youths concerning trees. This is one
of the most hopeful signs.— Pro/. Jos. T. Bothroch.
The Bii;ht Apple for the Kitrht Place. There
is no variety of Apples of acknowledged merit
that is at its best over any large part of our ter-
ritory. The celebrated Newton Pippin, which is
probably the best late winter Apple in the world,
lias never been at its best anywhere west of the
Alleghen.v Mountains, and onl.v in limited dis-
tricts in the New England States and in portion
of New York and Northern New Jerse.v. Even
in the limited districts of the small portion of
our country, it requires the best of cultivation
and the most careful attention, or it will not
yield the grower satisfactory returns for his
labor.— J. M. Smith, Pres. iris. Hort. Society.
let us Spray. The force pump now plays a most
prominent part in operations against insects in
orchard and garden. The ease with which the
codling moth can be controlled, and ,\pples
grown of full size, perfect form, rich in color
and of highest flavor, and resistance to early
decay, is sufficient proof of its value; and by its
aid we hope to defy the Plum curcuUo, and
check the ravages of almost every insect feeding
upon the foliage of trees, and a large number of
those which attack the products of our gardens.
No orchardist or gardener can afford to do with-
out a force pump. It is costly neglect. The
cheap and fatal spray, compared with old meth-
ods of fighting, is as a gatling gun compared
with a flint-lock musket.— Dr. S. A. Lintner,
hcfore the Western Tfew Torh Hort. Society.
Uannres for Grape Vines. Mr. Crawford said
ashes and ground bone dust applied to young
vines give excellent results. The rtnes get the
benefit of the bone sooner by using ashes and
bone together. Mr. Rogers said he hart used
phosphate on young vines and was satisfied with
the result. In old vine-yards he had drilled
Kye between the rows, in August, and plowed it
under the following spring. .\s a cheap fertili-
zer it is superior to any other that he had used.
Mr. Pierce said that on a part of his vineyard
the vines were not thrifty and he applied good
manure. The result was very favorable. He
said Kye drilled between the rows and plowed
under in the spring is useful to fertilize and
also to choke down Canada Thistles and weeds
and keep the soil from washing during the
winter.- Discussions of the South Shore Gi-apc and
Fruit Growers' Association.
Plant the Waste Lands. I feel safe in the
assertion that there arc in Pennsylvania about
two thousand square miles of land absolutely
worthless for all agricultural purposes, and
where our most important streams head. For all
that vast area there is but one natural destiny—
the production of the timber and the conserva-
tion of water; and the State should own it either
all or remove the taxes from it. Nor does Penn-
s.vlvania stand alone. From a paragraph written
as early as 1846 by Mr. George Emerson it would
appear that Massachusetts has similar areas.
Speaking of the Rock Chestnut Oak he says,
" The chief recommendation of this tree is the
situation in which it grows. It grows naturally
and flourishes on the steep sides of rocky bills,
where the other kinds of Oak can hardly get a
foothold. There are probably thousands of acres
of hilly rock.v land in almost every county in
Massachusetts, where various kinds of ever-
greens have grown unmixed with deciduous
trees until they have exhausted all the nutri-
ment suited to their support, and where now con-
sequently nothing thrives which would furnish
abundant support for this kind of Oak.— Prof.
Jos. T. Rnthrock, before the Mass. Hort. Society.
Forciner Houses. In practice it is found that
twenty feet is about the maximum profitable
width for a forcing-house. If a low house is de-
sired, for forcing Radishes, Lettuce or other low
plants, a much narrower house is advisable,
unless it can be built upon a slope, where a two-
thirds span can be used. In very narrow houses
the temperature is more diflicult to regulate
than in a wider house. The house should be low.
The sides range from two to five feet, and the
gable stands from seven to twelve feet above
the surface in our best modern forcing-houses.
The glazing is done upon permanent sash-bars,
as more light can be secured by this method
than by roofing with sash. The details of con-
struction must Ije adapted to individual circum-
stances ; but the old bugbear of great expense
may be dismissed. I have built two good houses,
each twenty by sixty feet, inside measure, at a
combined cost of building, including heat, of
about 81,500. And these houses are much better
than common commercial forcing-houses, which
can be built much cheaper than this. There are
six general essentials to successful forcing of
plants: (1) Bottom heat (2) Abundance of light.
i.Sl Proximity of plants to glass. (4) Fresh air.
We must outgrow the notion that we ventilate
simply to cool off the house. The primar.v ob-
ject of ventilation is to give fresh air, and this
should be secured without allowing drafts upon
plants or changing the temperature of the house
suddenly. (.'3) Humidity of atmosphere (6) A-
daptation of methods to change of habits of
plants. Plants rarely, if ever, maintain the
same habit of growth when forced as they
naturally possess out-of-doors. The struggle
for light is the chief cause of change of habit.—
Prof. Ba iley before the W. N. T. Hort. Society.
Grafting the Grape. Among the general ad-
vantages of grafting the Grape, without con-
sidering the importance of this mode of protect-
ing the varieties of Vinifera parentage from the
ravages of the Phylloxera, are the facility of In-
creasing new or nire sorts by grafting on old
stocks, the short time required to test the fruit
of new sorts. Tines so worked bearing a full crop
the second year; the ease with which sorts not
readily reproduced by cuttings are made to grow
when grafted; the ability to retop a worthless
stock with a valuable variety, and to bring about
increased fruitfulness by grafting on appropriate
stocks those sorts that are shy bearers on their
own roots. A knowledge of the proper aflinity
between stock and cion, can be gained only by
experience. In other particulars, however, the
best method is as follows: Select the cions from
thoroughly ripened, firm wood of the size of a
lead pencil or a little larger, and keep them dor-
mant by burying in a cool, shaded place until the
leaves have expanded on the stock, as the parts
unite more readily after the first rapid flow of
the sap is over, and the cion is less likely to be
"drowned out." With a spade the earth is
cleared away from about the crown of the stock,
which is cut through with a keen saw at a point
about two inches above a node or knot. A cleft
extending to the node is now made in the stump,
and ;the cion, cut wedge-shaped, is inserted in
t he cleft so that a bud may stand at the upper
point, where stock and cion united. Where the
stock is large enough, two cions are put into
each cleft. If the wood is firm and strong, no
ties are needed, nor is the use of wax desirable.
Press a handful of moist soil upon the wound,
and heap about it flne earth to within one or two
buds of the top of the cion. When the cions
have become weU started, the weaker of the
two in each stock should be pruned off. Vines
so grafted wUl make a growth of from eight to
twelve feet the first season, and though some-
times they do not start at once after the opera-
tion, they wiU generally push rapidly !and ripen
their wood well before fall. The method here
outlined commends itself to every practical man
by its simplicity and great utility.— Pro/. Geo.
Hu^mann, before the .-imerican Hort. Society.
Heating Cold Frames by Hot Water
or Steam, and Grapes Under
Glass.
{By Wm. P. Phiibrick, before the Massachusetts
Horticultural Societj.)
It was five years ago, the essayist made the
first experiment in growing Dandelions in
a frame heated by a circulation of hot water.
The bed was 1!15 feet long and V2 feet wide,
covered by 130 sashes, and was heated by
one inch-and-a-quarter water pipe, support-
ed on the inside of the plant frame four
inches below the glass, which was covered
at night in cold weather by straw mats.
The Dandelion roots were transplanted from
the field in September; the glass was placed on
the frames about the middle of December, and
the firing of the boiler was begun about Christ-
mas. The Dandelions were marketed in Febru-
ary, producing an average of just a bushel to
each sash, and were cleared off before the crop
from the cold frames came in.
As fast as the Dandelions were cleared off, the
bed was sown with Radishes with every third
row Short Horn Carrots; the Radishes were sold
in April, and the glass was then taken off to
another frame, heated by manure for Cucum-
bers, and the Carrots were marketed in .lune.
The result was highly satisfactory.
The next year the experiment was repeated,
using, however, a single inch-and a-quarter
steam pipe on the south side of the bed, which
was twelve feet wide. The Dandelions near the
steam pipe were drawn somewhat by the exces-
1 890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
177
sivc heat of the pipelnit were not much injureil.
Instead of Carrots, Parsley was sown with tlie
Radishes, which eanie to market in May and sold
remarkably well. The use of these warm frames
has t)oen eontiniied every year since, with uni-
formly successful results as refrards f^rowinj? the
crops, though of course the market is not always
equally jjood for the products.
Beat Mode of Heatine- For the best and most
easily managed frame Mr. Philbrick prefers one
only six feet wide, with a fence to lean the mats
aurainst when not on the frame, with an inch-and-
a-quarter pipe eariied around the frame on both
sides, fo\ir inches below the grlass, and heated by
a small hot-water-boiler under pressure of about
ten pounds to the inch.
The reason for preferring hot water circulation
to steam is that in moderate weather the temper-
ature can be more easily regulated by regulating
the fire than with sieam pipes. The same results
could probably be attained by having two or
three steam pipes of smaller calibre and shutting
oil the steam from part of them in mild weather-
These frames are very convenient in growing
the crops mentioned, which used to be grown in
the open air in spring and fall without glass, and
Jlr. Philbrick thought they would answer equal-
ly as well for many flowering plants of low
growth which need but little artiticial heat, such
as Violets, Pansies, Primulas and many of the
Dutch bulbs.
Advantages, It is astonishing how little coal
is necessary to keep out frost, which is about all
that is required with such hardy plants as have
been mentioned. When mats are used on the
bed, it will require for a bed two hundred feet
long and six feet wide only about three or four
tons of coal for the winter to keep the plants in
gro\vlng condition, and make the frame produce
fully double what it would without the heat.
Every one who has attempted to run a cold
frame in a severe winter knows how hard it is to
keep out frost, even with double mats and shut-
ters. With the aid of hot water and steam no
shutters at all are required and much of the time
not even mats.
Such an arrangement, however, will not grow
good Lettuce without a little bottom heat in
cold weather.
The arrangement recommended is easily man-
aged. When only a few frames are run, they
may be heated with a small boiler and lamp.
Exotic Grapes, In regard to growing Hlack
Hamburg Grapes under glass that is used for
other purposes in winter, Mr. Philbrick said that
every market gardener knows that there is usu-
ally a considerable number of hot-bed sashes in
market gardens which are not used, unless for
growing Cucumbers and Melons, after the mid-
dle of April until the next winter.
The early Cucumber crop has of late been far
less profitable than formerly, and it occurred to
the essayist a tew years ago that possibly this
glass might be put to better use for Grapes.
To do this he started some cuttings of Black
Hamburg Grapes, and grew the vines for the
first year in pots in his Cucumber house. The
next year they were set out in the border where
they were to stand, and were grown in a frame
raised three feet high and covered by a single
string of hot-bed glass, the vines being trained
inside the frame. The vines were cut back in
the fall to two eyes and covered. The next
spring the ratters of the house were built, and
the glass was put on about the last of April.
The \'lnes made a fair growth last year and were
allowed to ripen only a few bunches of Grapes.
But next summer he hopes to grow a fair crop.
The glass with which this house is covered Is
ordinary hot-bed sashes, which are fastened to
the rafters by means of ordinary screw eyes in
the rafters, through which common wood screws
pass into the wood of the sashes underneath to
hold tbem in place.
The glass is taken off in the fall after the vines
have been pruned and laid down and covered
with earth. The glass is used on hot-beds or
cold frames until the 20th of April, when it is
replaced on the Graper,v just as the vines are
breaking into growth.
The Grapes thus treated will ripen in Septem-
ber. The essayist saw no difBculty in the way of
successfully growing Grapes in this way very
cheaply. When he made his plans for this opera-
tion, the price of Black Hamburg Grapes was
from seventy-flve cents to a dollar and a quarter
per pound, but the recent large importations of
California Grapes in the fall, together with the
improved excellence of our outdoor Grapes have
reduced the price so that Black Hamburg Grapes
sold last fall at about thirty cents per pound.
This low price was, howe\cr, partly due to the
wet season, which made it impossible to hold
Grapes for the market.
Any one who wishes to grow these delicious
Grapes cheaply, can do so by using his spare
glass, and will be rewarded for the care they
require with choice fruit for his table or his
friends. There is. howe\-er, little inducement to
grow them for market, unless they are forced
early or held until cold weather, which involves
the use of heat and different arrangements.
Water Melor^s and Their Varieties.
[E^-travt of paper read by Robi'i-t B. Harris, M. £>., be-
fore the Pennsylvania Horticultural Soeiety.)
This fruit grows in hot countries; general-
ly, but has not so great a range of climate
as the Cantaloupe. It appears to be divided
into tvro distinct classes — one adapted to
very hot localities,and the other able to bear
well a limited degree of heat.
some countries, especially southern Russia, Ar-
menia and Sicily. In Pei-sia the favorite Is called
a "black Watermelon," from its very dark green
color, as we have the "black Italian"; it is very
thin-rinded, and is easily broken in transporta-
tion. The Japanese produce a Melon of a long
apple-shape, having very tiny seeds and a thin
rind, that grows well in our climate, and has
been considered an excellent variety by private
growers, but Its small size has prevented Its ac-
ceptance by the trade. Such fruits make good
hybrids mth larger varieties.
Large, tough-rlnded, symmetrical Melons of
fine quality, which keep and carry well, are now
produced in enormous quantities in our southern
States, and some may be carried in good condi-
tion to Europe or kept from the last of Septem-
ber to Christmas. As an article of diet the
Watermelon requires a better digestive power
in the eater than is required for the Cantaloupe,
and some dyspeptics who consume the latter
with entire comfort, do not dare to more than
taste the former.
This country now produces a greater variety
of large Watermelons than ever before, and they
can be grown to a heavier weight. In 1800 there
were Melons in the Philadelphia market that
measured forty-five inches in girth; but they did
not grow them in our country of 108, 111, and 12.5
pounds until within a few years, when new
varieties reached these weights in favorable
seasons and localities.
Inthe olden time, our Watermelons were
chiefly long, oval, dark green or striped, and had
large black or brown seeds. Spanish seeds pro-
duced our first thin-rinded Melons; but these
soon changed in character under the work of the
bees. Spanish Melons are still grown, but are
altered in form over those from imported seeds.
Tlte Pennsylvania Anemone. See opposite pa<ie.
Those from the tropics grow larger and finer
in tljis latitude,and the Melons of Spain and Italy
do as well here as in those countries, although
but few of them are worth introducing. Water-
melons from milder climates than ours will grow
in New Jersey soil, but are never inviting in
flavor. When cut open they crack before the
knife with a sort of explosive sound; are often
white-fleshed, and seldom of a rich red; they are
deficient in sweetness, and the flesh is sometimes
tough. I have found one desirable Russian
Melon, one Spanish, three Italian, one Cappado-
cian, one Japanese and one African, in a large
number of varieties tested from many countries.
All the vines I have examined were of tbe same
peculiar, well-known^character of leaf , except one
from Liberian seeds, which had a large, solid,
ovate-pointed leaf, set close to the stem, and
growing right and left alternately, and parallel
with the ground.
Watermelons are long, semi-long, oval and
round; their seeds are black, brown, white, red,
buff, gray and mottled. All of these colors may
be found in very large, medium, and very small
seeds. As a general rule, a large Melon bears
large seeds, and vice versa, but there are excep-
tions. White-rinded Melons may have very
small black seeds, as in the Russian, or may be
large and white, or buff with a brown edge. The
most delicious Melons, as a rule, are thin-rinded,
and pink or dark red in flesh. Such Water-
melons do not bear transportation well, the
breakage in some being up to fifteen per cent.
In interior colors we also find white, yellow and
amber-colored.
Many foreign Melons have very tiny seeds, and
some of the fruits may be readily eaten by one
person. Orange Melons,or those having an easily
separated rind, are said to be produced of very
small size in Bulgaria and the extreme south of
Italy, but have not yet been grown here.
Watermelons with very small seeds, down to
half an inch in length, are quite abundant in
The Fruits and Flowers of Northern
Japan.
iPaper reail by Prof. Broohs before the Massachusetts
Horticultural Society.)
(Coiitinuedfrom page 1.59.)
The "Kokuwa" MffiHird'a argnta) is peculiar
to Japan, and finds its most perfect and abund-
ant development in the primeval forests of Yesso.
Much has been written and said about it within
the last few years, though strangel.v enough, it
has been urged upon public attention as an orna-
mental climber. It is a vigorous, not to say a
rampant grower, and its luxuriant dark green
leaves and waving stems have a beauty of their
own. For the purpose of covering arbors or
** forming wild entanglements" from tree to tree,
it is certainly suited, but its coils will be found to
hug " closer than a hrother." Still, it is a beauti-
ful climber, though Yesso can furnish several
more beautiful and far more manageable; but
the lecturer cautioned not to plant it against
verandas or buildings. Unless looked after far
more closely than most will find time to do, it
will overgrow all desired bounds, displace eave
sprouts and make itself a nuisance generally by
its omnipresence. It is for its fruit that the plant
is mostly prized in Yesso, where in many locali-
ties, it is abundant and very largely collected.
The fruit is a berry a little larger than the Green
Gage Plum; the skin is green, the pulp, when
ripe soft, and the seed numerous and very fine.
The flavor cannot be likened to thatof an.v other
fruit; it is very agreeable to most, but it is sui
generis There is an astringent principle in the
skin, which must not be sucked too much or it
will make the mouth sore. It is not difficult,
ho%\e\'er, to suck out the pulp without encount-
ering this trouble. The effect of the fruit is de-
cidedly, but pleasantly, laxative to most^much
more so than in any other of our fruits, not
excepting the Fig. It must prove a valuable
acquisition e^'en for this single quality, were it
not moreover sufEcientl.y delicious to repay eat-
ing. Only one attempt had been made in Yesso
to cultivate it, but the plants for this experi-
ment, collected before sufficient acquaintance
with the botanical peculiarities of the species
had been acquired, all proved barren. It is poly-
gamo-dioecious, and for fruit it must be propa-
gated by cuttings from fertile plants. A second
obstacle to its culture is the fact that a number
of years must elapse before the plants begin to
be productive. Should the fruit under cultivation
prove as good as when wild, it would be well
worth a place in our gardens; and of course there
is a possibility that it may be improved. It
flourishes best in rich, moist soils.
The fruit (hip) of Rosa ntgosa is very large and
handsome. It is chiefly eaten.by children,'though
1/8
POPULAR GARDENING.
May,
halved, seeded, and slightly salted, it is esteemed
a delicacy by many adults, and the lecturer found
it really not so bad as he expected.
There are also Apples and Pears, an indigenous
Plum (Prunns tomentosa\ the wild Mulberry
^^f(^n^s alba)^ a wild Currant (Rib&s Japoni€a\
and Peaches, Apricots and Cherries, none of which
are superior to ours, if indeed they are equal.
The fririt of a species of Conifer [Cephalntaxus
dnipacea), however, deserves • mention. This
grows as an under shrub in man.v of the mountain
forests. The female plants have a stone fruit
precisely like a Plum in structure. It is about
the size of a Pecan nut; the flesh is proportion-
ately about as thick as that of the Plum, and is
very juicy and remarkably sweet, with a faint
suggestion of Pine in its flavor.
The Flowers of Yesso. Adimin Amurensis is
one of the most attractive of the early wild
flowers. It is bright yellow, and might ap-
propriately in that country be called the " eye of
spring,^' for it peeps up sometimes even in Feb-
ruary on sunny banks where the snow has melted
away. Often it looks bravely up in the midst of
sharp snow storm, and such exposure scarcely
seems to hurt it. It is a special favorite with the
Japanese, who, however, seldom plant it in gar-
dens, but are satisfied ivith seeking out the earliest
plants, and digging them while in bud for for-
warding in old tin cans, broken teapots etc. It
is the earliest harbinger of spring for the masses.
More delicately beautiful is the GJaueldmm
palmatum, a mid-spring flower, witn large and
particularly beautiful, almost translucent leaves,
and large, delicate pink flowers. This is the fav-
orite of cool, shady dells and rich, moist soil.
A few years since this very beautiful flower had
not then been introduced into Europe and
America. It would richly repay care, but would
undoubtedly be fastidious as to soils and sur-
roundings.
The gorgeous beauty of the autumn woods,
the Monkshood (Aconihim Fishery, standing
often fully six feet high, with enormous masses
of brilliant blue flowers, must not be forgotten.
By far the most delicately beautiful of spring
flowers in the vicinity of Sapporo in the Corydalis
amhigua, with its fragile stems and leaves and its
lovely racemes of flowers shading into the most
exquisite tints and hues of blue and ultamarine
and pink, and sometimes becomini; almost white.
The fragrance, too, of the flowers is wonderfully
delicate and sweet. This species, and its rarer
form with the lobes of the leaves linear, might
probably be cultivated quite easily, and if so,
they would amply repay the care bestowed upon
them. The far more sturdy and quite different
Corydnlis aurea has also great beauty of its own.
Both thrive in moderately light soils.
The Japanese Primrose (Prirmda Japonica),
though well known to American and European
gardeners, and justly esteemed for its elegant
habit and great beauty of flowers, is common
along the banks of streams.
Of the large number of Spirseas, several are of
unusual beauty, among them aruncuf, callosa
and sorhifolia, any one of which would form a
beautiful clump in the garden, or add grace and
beaut.v to a bouquet.
The "hagi" of the Japanese is a species of
Lespedeza, with pinkish flowers, which is cele-
brated in Japanese storj- and song, and is regarded
as one of the seven beautiful wild flowers of
autumn. Two others, which are included by the
Japanese in the same class, stand next on the list
— Patrinia scabioscefolia and Plafiicoden grandi-
florum. These are almost invariably found to-
gether in open, sandy localities, and a beautiful
combination they make, either in field or bou-
quet^the Patrinia, with its broad cymes of pale
gold, and the Platycoden with its large bells of
heaven's own blue The other flowers which
make up the magic numljer are, with one excep-
tion, also found wild in Yesso. They are the
Grass Pink, the Morning Glory, 'a grass which
has beautiful autumn plumes (L'ufaUaJ'apo/uca),
the Aster, and the Wistaria.
The Dog-tooth Violet lErythmnitim Dcnx-canig)
with usually large and finely mottled leaves and
large pink flowers, is a woodland beauty which
grows in many places in extraordinary profusion.
Excelling even this in abundance is the sweet
Lily of the Valley (Convallaria ma./aiis). of which
the lecturer has seen dozens of acres in one lot.
This attains to great size and beauty, and so well
do soil and climate seem to suit it that in places
it takes possession of the ground to the almost
entire exclusion of other plants. It makes itself
a great nuisance in pastures, and during Pro-
fessor Brook's stay in Japan he was more than
once consulted as to means of exterminating it,
asked whether some practical use could not be
made of it. The beauty and fragrance of such
pastures, however can be imagined.
Other herbaceous plants mentioned were the
Frititlaria Kamchatcensiit LiUuin Jtiedeoloides and
LysicJiitoti Kamchatcense.
Woody Plants. The Actinidia polygama de-
serves extended mention. The '* Kokuwa" (Ac-
tinidia arguta}, which has already been described,
has sometime been mistakenly called by this
name. The two species are wholly distinct, and
the polygama is for ornamental purposes worth
far morth than the other. Its ha!»it of growth is
considerably less vigorous, though it is by no
means a slow grower. It will be far less obtrus-
ive and more manageable; but the chief point in
which it excels arguta is in the beauty of its foli-
age. Mature plants have the habit of producing
Seedling of the GlnTtgo or Maiden-Hair
Fern Tree. (See opp. page.)
at the ends of the growing shoots from four to
six leaves, which are tipped with a lustrous sil-
very white, usually spreading over more than
halt the leaf. This peculiarity gives it, at a little
distance, as it clambers over thickets, the appear-
ance of a plant in full and abundant bloom.
Then, too, the uncolored foliage is exceedingly
beautiful, and the flowers, though partly hidden
by the leaves, are very pretty, and have all the
fragrance of the Orange. Young plants trans-
planted to the lawn did not, however, show this
silvery appearance after growing there three
years, and planted in Amherst failed to show it
last season, and perhaps, change in soil, climate,
etc., will cause the species to lose this most valu-
able peculiarity. The fruit is similar in size and
structure to that of the " Kokuwa," but it is far
less abundantly produced and cannot be consid-
ered as delicious.
Among others were mentioned the Magnolias
(two species)— Conn:* brochj/poda: the Hydrangea
petiolaris, called also ScMzophrayma hydranye-
ojdes; Hydrangea panicidata, H. horteusisor acu-
minata; Syringa rulgarix, the Cherry (which is
highly prized in Japan as a flowering tree); Styrax
fihassia. Eleagmts Japonica, DieTXilla veisicolor,
and the Mistletoe.
Among cultivated flowers the Iris Kcrmpferi
surpassed all others, the flowers under good cul-
tivation being sometimes a foot or more in diam-
eter, so that one feels ready to exclaim when
seeing it, '' This is the queen of flowers."
Professor Brooks concluded with the following
list of plants not previously mentioned in his ex-
cellent paper;
Pceonia obovata,Oentiana (sp?), Caltha palustrig
var Japonica, Craipfurdia Japonica, Cletnatis
fusco, Spircea Kamchatica, Trillittm a'ectum, var.
Japonicum, Potentilla paiu.^tris, Trillium isp?)
Pueraria Thunher-giana, Xymphaa pygnuca, Art-
em'S'O (sp?), Veratruni album, l^araxacum officin-
alis, Funkia {sp'.'),Adc7wphijrn verticullata, Lilium
cordifolium, Vitjurnum Wrigldii, Vihurnum dila-
fatum. Viburnum upului*. Hydrangea hoi'tenifis
var. Japonica.
Thoughts About Trees and Tree
Planting.
\Extract of paper read by ?[rs. Helen V. Austin, before
the Xew Jersey State Horticultural Society.]
As to the relations of forests to rainfall an(J
drought I leave that to the scientific people,
to the weather clerks, to Old Probilities,
Professor Fernow and Company, and the
State Board of Agriculture. It is a fact,
and not merely trite lines in a song; "We
never miss the water till the spring runs
dry." When the greed for present gain,
shall have destroyed the wealth of the
future, and our forests are wastefully de-
stroyed, repentence will be too late. We
will be wise if we take warning and avert
the day of doom.
J. Sterling Morton, of Nebraska, the man who
has done so much to reclaim what was once the
"Great American desert," and who is the Father
of Arbor Day in America, writing to the Forest-
ry Congress at Atlanta, Ga . , says: "Perhaps it
is ordered that the race shall destroy forests for-
ever, and never restore forests. The Holy Land,
all the desolate Orient, once glorious in forests,
luscious in fruits, and fragrant in flowers, recites
man's wicked waste of trees. The lesson should
teach America. It, when translated to the
understanding, is only a picture of our future if
we destroy, seldom conserve, and never plant
great forests. What came to the axemen of the
Orient will come to those of the Occident. The
same causes give inexorably the same results.
It is possible that the Mound Builders were de-
troyers of Forests and that their race perished
with the trees. Then there was a long period,
eons upon eons, which no man has any know-
ledge of, during which nature re-forested this
continent from the Atlantic to the prairies of the
Northwest. It may be that the life of a race of
men is limited by the duration of the forest or
woodland area which they encounter at the be-
ginning of their career. We use 25,000 acres of
woodland as to their forest products every day.
In twentv-eight years we shall have consumed
all the foi-ests of the United States. It is time to
plant generall.v and thoughtfully.
Any observing person, traveling from Camden
to Cape May, wUl be impressed with the barren
appearance of the country. Dwarf Oaks and
Pines are the principal forest trees, yet we know
that many kinds of trees would grow and flour-
ish in this soil. All that is wanting is for the
hand of man to plant and restore to nature that
which has lieen taken from her. Imagine the
waste places transformed into groves and the
groves alive with birds ! Where the wind now
sweeps unobstructed over barren sands, in a few
years would be covered with leaf-mould and
verdure. Trees should be planted as a protection
for birds, if for nothing else. The cruel destruc-
tion of the darlings that navigate the air, is a
blight and curse, and cannot but bring its
punishment.
As an example of the utility of tree planting
in New Jersey, Vineland, the place which is now
my home, may be cited. It has no great natural
beauty, so far as scenei-j' exists; no hills or
mountains and no river. True, it is on an ele-
vated spot, in a flat country, and sunrise and sun
set are not obscured Iiy hills. But the trees of
vineland are its greatest adornment. The orig-
nal Pines and Oaks abound, but added to these
aie a great variety of trees, such as arc usually
set for shade trees, and the way they flourish is
proclamation that the soil of New Jersey will
nourish trees and is only asking for a chance to
show the world what mother nature can do.
If I were consulted as to what kind of trees to
plant in towns and roadsides, I would say, plant
liberally, of fruit trees, alternated with forest
trees. We have some Apple trees on the side-
walks in Vineland and they afford delightful
shade; their beauty when in blossom and the
utility of fruit make them greatly to be desired.
And Mulberry trees, I would have plenty of
them; the robust native kintl, and the Downing's
Everbearing, and the Kussian also, and if silk
worms are to be reared, the Italian or White
Mulberry. This fruit is one of the most health-
ful in the world It is also excellent food for
poultry, and the birds of the air feed upon it, as
well as the bees. The wasps, those industrious
little souls that are so useful in devouring the
eggs of insects injurious to fruit, are happy in
the hanging garden of a Mulberry tree.
I call to mind farms in Penns.vlvania among
the foot-hills of the AUeghenies, where Cherry
ligo.
POPULAR GARDENING.
179
trcH\s are planteil up and down the laues and
along the pulilio roads; and sncli trees! and such
Cherries ! and sueli tioeks of birds ! These Cher-
ries are marketed at 2."> or tliirty eents for a
woodi'n bvu-ketfnll. holdinfj a quarter of a
bushel, and people whogothereto piekthemcan
have theai at a less price, very often for nothing.
I eall to mnid also a village on the National
road, in Wayne County, Indiana, where Cherry
trees attoiind on the sidewalks. In the blossom-
ing time, the whole town is dressed in white, and
in the time of fruiting it is brilliant with red,
and the birds hold high carnival.
There is a quaint old town on the Ohio river,
some distance from Pittsburg, named Economy,
settled by a religious sect from Germany. In
this quaint, sweet, old-fashioned tillage the fruit
is as free to all as the water. Grape vines are
trained over the dwellings, and fruit trees shade
the gniss-grown streets. The fruit is held in
common and is free to the inhabitants, and if a
visitor ^vishes a basket of Cherries or Mulberries,
it is gathered and given, but never sold.
We are often told that if fruit trees were
planted on the street, the boys would get the
fruit. That would be one great object in thus
planting, so that the boys and girls could get the
fruit. The fact is that children are starving tor
fruit; and what with the scarcity of the article,
and the enclosures surrounding what there is,
the average boy is forced into being a thief. If
the boy has an innate conscience, the conscience
and stomach strive for the mastery, and the
stomach is ipiite sure to gain the victory.
Just to think of a man, who has lived long
enough in the world to have planted a hundred
orchards, going to the expense and trouble of
building a high, solid fence around a miserable,
pinched, mean little patch of ground which he
calls an orchard, and then goes to the expense
of keeping a ravenous beast, a vile dog, to pro-
tect that patch. And yet, professing do-as-you-
would-be-done-by people laugh at such things.
I would have them learn of trees and forests;
I would have Arbor day observed, and have the
boys and girls plant trees and impress the lessons
of the school room by the object lessons learned
from nature.
Nut Culture and its Future.
( Extract of paper read by H. M. Engle before the
American Pomological Society.)
Nuts are rich in certain food elements,
adapted to the human system. Thousands
of acres might be made profitable in this
branch of horticulture that now pay neither
interest nor taxes, and large supplies of food
for man obtained with more certainty than
by an equal amount of money spent and
labor applied in the production of some
other crops.
An inducement to Nut culture is that so little
care is required in keeping them, while fruits
and vegetables reijutre special care during
winter, when the former are most required and
the latter least. If more of the natural products
of the earth, and less of artificially prepared and
A Berrij Picking Device.
adulterated articles, were eat^n, mankind would
be much better for it.
The Chestnut. Wherever these will flourish,
it may safely be placed at the head of all Nuts,
since for quality it is unsurpassed.
Some of the Spanish, or seedlings of the same,
are nearly if not altogether equal to our natives
in quality. Much has been claimed for the
Japan Chestnuts, but those we have fruited are
not equal to some of the Spanish, either in size
or quality. We may reasonably conclude that
speaking of Spanish, French, Italian, or Japan
Chestnuts, is as indetinite as speaking of Apples,
Pears, or any other fruits from these countries
as all Chestnuts vary when grown from seed.
New varieties will no doubt be produced by
cross-fertilization, and these will combine many
if not all the best (|ualities of the originals, just
as has been done with so many other fruits.
Hoping for sut-h results, it will be important to
have new varieties i>roperly named and classified
the same as other fruits, so to avoid synonyms,
improper names, and the dissemination of in-
ferior varieties.
The Walnnt and Filbert. The Black Walnut
(Juiilaiia nigra), Hutteruut (J. cinerea), English
Walnut. iJ.rcuia). Pecan (Carya ulivfrfurmis),
Shellbark (Callia), and Filbert {Cwyiws ArellanaK
are no doubt susceptible of improvement in the
direction of less shell and more kernel.
Nut culture opens a wide field for the delicate
process of hybridization and cross-fertilization,
and the obstacle should be no greater than to
hybridize Wheat and Kye, which has been suc-
cessfully accomplished.
After all, the raising of seedlings is like a lot-
tery; manj' blanks are drawn, but the outlay is
not expensive, and should one superior variety
be produced, the producer may consider himself
a benefactor to his race.
Beqairements. The different Nuts require
various soils and locations; Walnuts nourish
best in rich loam ; Butternuts thrive in similar
soils; both bear transplanting well. Pecans and
Shellbarks have long and heavy tap-roots, and
must be carefully managed ; they should be
transplanted once or twice in the nursery, and
by cutting off part of the tap-root, they will
throw out side roots, after which there is little
risk in their removal. Wherever the Peach and
Mazzard Cherry flourish, the Chestnut will suc-
ceed, i. e., in light soils, either sand, slate or
gravel. Pennsylvania has large areas of Chestnut
forest which are cleared once in twenty or
twenty-flve years for the timber, but the Nuts
on such trees do not amount to much, as the
woods grow too dense, and the Nuts are small.
But a new departure has been made which, we
trust, will spread extensively. After clearing
the land, when the sprouts are of one season's
growth, they are grafted with some improved
variety, at such distances as trees should stand
were they planted for fruiting, and all the rest
are destroyed and kept down. The oldest of these
trees are now but two seasons' growth since they
were grafted, but some have ah-eady borne fruit,
and indications are that in a comparatively short
time there will be Nut orchards in full bearing,
instead of timber forests.
I predict that in less than a decade there will be
a boom in this direction, in our state at least.
CONDENSED GLEANINGS.
Eew Tree Seedling. So far as is known the
Kew tree (Qinkno adiantifolUt) is the sole sur-
viver of an otherwise extinct race. It is a native
of China and Japan, and the type one of unfath-
omable antiquity, and the wonder is how the one
living represe.sentative could have held its own
and survived through so many changes of climate
and other conditions. With few or no exceptions
the tree is best suited to withstand the pernicious
atmosphere of crowded towns, its thick leathery
leaves and their thick epiderm enabling it to
resist the smoke and other atmospheric impuri-
ties. The fan-like leaves are borne in tufts on
the ends of short spurs, like those of an Apple
tree, and in autumn before they fall they turn a
beautiful golden-yellow. The male catkins are
produced at the end of similar spurs. The female
flowers are on different trees to the male, and
ripen into an ovoid berry-like fruit; placed at the
end of a long stalk. Pollen from a male tree,
therefore, is required for purposes of fertiliza-
tion, or a cion from the female tree may be
grafted on the male, or ince versa. The tree is
usually propagated by layers, but also by seed.
The mode of germination, as shown in sketch is
almost exactly like that of an Oak, but primary
leaf -scales are 3-seriate.— Gardeners Chronicle.
Aqnarinm Tank. A very elaborate and
beautiful affair, which is reaUy a joy forever, if
one cares to stand the expense, can be made by
a cooper. This should Ije constructed of heavy
Ash or Oak staves with a false bottom, the upper
one not too hea^'y. well perforated with two inch
holes, and should be about six inches from the
true bottom, leavnng about eighteen inches clear
space at the top. Plant the roots in the bottom
space, fill with dirt as in the other instances,
mount on large strong castors and you have a
very cheap and large aquarium in which many
beautiful lish and water animals may be kept
which could not be made to thrive in an ordinay
a(]uariuni, e\'en with a fountain and a constant
supply of fresh water. In ours we have many
kind such as spoon-bill cat, gars, shovel-noses,
and the like, the plants keeping the water natur-
al for them. Orange Judd Farmer.
Capturing English Sparrows. Mr. W. T. Hill,
our sparrow catcher, has caught more than ever
the past season, about 30,(KX), but it cost him
more time and trouble, though his greater skill,
acquired by constant practice of three years or
more, enables him to catch them much more
readily than at first. He
captures a great many now
at night. Learning of their
roosting places, he gets
permissson to enter yards
after dark, and scoops
them in by the hundred.
It is no uncommon thing
for him to bag 500 between
dusk and bed-time. The
demand for the birds from
sporting clubs is constant-
ly increasing, and orders
come from all parts of
A Damp Inilicat(ir. jjjg country. But with
all the demand for trap-shooting, and all the de-
vices for capturing, the little pest seems to hold
his own in this city at least, and we presume the
same is true all over the country. There is a
chance for some inventor to make a fortune in
divising some trap that will catch the birds more
rapidly than anything yet invented.— Correspon-
Indiana Farmer.
Thinning Vegetables. No doubt it takes nerve
to properly thin rows of vegetables, and throw
thousands of thrifty growing plants away. I
find that especially so with Cabbage plants when
grown by sowing in rows right where the crop is
to grow. Every season I have to puU up and
throw away, or feed to the hens, thousands of
most excellent plants, such as you could not
often buy even of skillful growers or dealers-
plants of the very choicest varieties, too. But
as I do not attempt to sell Cabbage plants, or
make any effort to find buyers for them, I have
to throw or give the surplus away as soon as my
rows need thinning. In order to accomodate a
neighbor or an aquaintance with my surplus, I
often postpone the job of thinning much too
long for the best of my patch. But when the
crowding plants are removed, it is astonishing
to see how rapidly the remaining ones grow. I
always leave a few plants standing between
those that are left to form heads. This enables
me to fill the vacancies, should they accur by
accident or mischief-making insects. -Correspon-
Farm and Fireside.
A Damp Indicator. Mr. F. W. Beck, a florist
at East Grinstead is the inventor of the in-
strument here illustrated for registering the
amount of moisture in the atmosphere of plant
houses, dwellings, machine rooms, and other
places where injury is done by an excess of damp
when the excess is not suspected. We have been
informed that a damp bed suggested the produc-
tion of something that would indicate whether a
" strange bed " was damp or not. The instru-
ment has been found useful in that and many
other respects, and is largely sold in this country
and America. It is so sensitive that when the
case is opened the indicator moves by the action
of the breath, just as the mercury in a thermo-
meter rises under the influence of heat applied
in the same manner, the extent of damp being
determined by the figures to which the small
thread-like detector points.— Journal of Hort.
Berry Picking Device. The berry picking
arrangement shown herewith is used on a fruit
farm in Baraboo, Wis. A visitor describes it as
follows : A little device that interested me was a
picking box or form into which the berry box
was placed while being filled with Blackberries
or Raspberries by the picker. The box was made
of tin of a suitable size to receive the quart box.
The box has a hinged cover, with a funnel-
shaped hole through which the fruit is dropped
into the berry box within. There is a slot on one
side for the strap which goes around the picker's
waist. This box prevents loss in picking berries,
and being held by a strap, both hands are left
free to gather the fruit.— Orange Judd Farmer.
The Seed-Potato Puzzle. Experience of my-
self and others in this region has been that whole
tubers, with similar cultivation and care, pro-
duce more large Potatoes than cut sections. The
i8o
POPULAR GARDENING.
May,
finest lot of Potatoes I ever saw was grown on a
deep, rich meadow soil, with the old grass-sod
recently ploughed down, and manured in the
rows. Whole tubers were used for seed, and
these were selected from the entire crop of the
previous year. As this system had been follow-
ed for several successive seasons, always select-
ing the largest and most perfectly formed speci-
mens, the crops gradually became more and
more regular in form.— Josiah Hoopes, in
New York Weekly Tribune.
Cyclamens. In these plants you have some-
thing delicate, always choice and pleasing, both
in the beautiful foliage and flowers, and in per-
fume, though it Is not strong. The most com-
mon color is white, with a rosy tip, but new
shadings and stripes are being produced con-
stantly. Tbis plaut should have considerable
leaf-mould in the soil, and little or no manure.
Place the crown of the bulb above the soil, and
remove, by means of a wet sponge or cloth, the
dust as it accumulates on the leaves. This plaut
cannot fail to give satisfaction.— Agriculturist.
The Turtle in the Greenhouse. One of the
most useful requisites of the greenhouse is one
of our common box-turtles. Turtles are con-
stantly on the alert for insects, their special de-
hght being slugs, snails and wood-lice, the
gardener's worst pests. One turtle will do the
work of a house thoroughly, a work that takes
the time and ingenuity of the gardener, and is
rarely half done. In the greenhouse the turtle
is qinte at home, never in the way, and always
at work.— American Agriculturist.
Sunflower Hedge. A very pretty and service-
able hedge for one season may be made by plant-
ing Sunflowers one foot apart with Morning
Glories between and training the vines across the
spaces. Sunflowers are sometimes used in like
manner for Bean poles and may be made to
serve as a trellis for Tomato vines.— Correspon-
dent Farm and Home.
Sheep and Orchard. Make a movable fence to
inclose say one-sixth or one quarter of an acre
at a time for fifty sheep, and feed and pasture
upon it three or four days, and then move on.
Food being given in addition to pasture, the
manuring the land gets will be worth more than
to apply sheep manure from under a shed.—
Practical Farmer.
■ No Joking Matter. For these good and sufli-
cient reasons we ask t^ll the respectable news-
papers to join with us in absolutely refusing to
publish lottery announcements, quack notices,
snide jewelry offers and pretty typewriter jokes.
They all belong to the same category and should
be suppressed.— Western Plowman.
When to grow Potatoes. A successful eastern
farmer, who made his money in Potatoes, always
planted heavily when Potatoes were cheap in the
spring, and lightly when seed was dear in the
spring. Everybody plants when seed is dear,
and rice rcrsa.— American (jarden.
Fine Native Trees. The Oak, Sassafras, Chest-
nut, Walnut and Cherry from the clearing, all
are excellent shade trees for the lane, the lawn,
and around the farm building . No use of send-
ing to the nursery if these are in your own wood-
land.—Farm Journal.
Danger in Cider. A barf el of "hard" cider in your
cellar, an unprincipled hired man who likes to take a
drink, a boy you love, what a beautiful combination
with which to mauufacture a broken heart !—R. N. Y.
The Hog as Insect Foe. Several Apple orchardists
wHl this year borrow their neighbors' hogs to eat the
fallen Apples. As an Apple Insecticide the hog Is a pro-
nounced success.— California Fruit Grower.
Blessings of Rural Life. Talk about living well :
Why, we who cultivate the soil might and ought to
live like princes, and be the first and formost men of
our land.— J. M. Smith In Country Gentleman.
An Evergreen Hedge. This is a thing of beauty, If
properly taken care of; and if properly placed It will
pay for itself many times over as a wind break.-
Western Rural.
A good Work, One hundred thousand young shade
trees are to be sent from Canadian Experiment Sta-
tions to farmers in the Northwest for spring planting.
Usually a Paying Crop. J.S. Stickney, Wauwatosa,
Wis., last year marketed 16 tons of Currants from three
acres of ground; net receipts, $S00.— O. J. Farmer.
The Gravenstein Apple. Gravenstein Is the best
keeping and shipping Apple for an early market. So
says the New York dealer.
Good for Almost any Crop. Soap suds from the
weekly lauudrylng Is also good for the Grape vines.—
Farmer's call.
The Weak always First Attacked. Debilitated Rose
plants are the first choice of insects.— Ex.
Vegetable Products on the Table
Bananas and Strawberries. A few Bananas
sliced and served with Strawberries and cream
improve the dish. Carefully heaped together,
the Strawberries and Bananas make a very
pretty dish —P. F.
Spinach Greens. Look over carefully, picking
leaves from stems. Wash and cook 30 minutes
in salted water. Drain, chop fine, return to the
fire, season with butter, pepper and salt, press
into a mold or bowl, turn out and garnish with
sliced egg. —Western Rural.
The TTse of Evaporated Fruit. No evaporated
fruit should ever be boiled or stewed, but soaked
in tepid water from eight to twelve hours,
sweetened to taste by adding sugar for syrup,
and melt while the fruit merely simmers— not
boils. Thus simmered, evaporated fruits will
retain most nearly natural color in preparation.
^Am. Grocer.
Lettuce Salad. Take the yolks of three hard-
boiled eggs; add salt and Mustard to taste; make
a paste of the eggs, and add a tablespoonful of
melted butter; mix thoroughly, and then add
gradually one teacupful of vinegar, and pour
over the Lettuce. Slice one hard-boiled egg and
lay over the Lettuce. This is sufficient for a
large-sized bead.— Ohio Farmer.
Boiled Salsify. Scrape the roots and throw them
into water, to which has been added a squeeze
of Lemon, and leave them for an hour. Then
put them into boiling salt-aud-water, and boil
until tender, which will be in about an hour.
Drain, serve on toast, covered with white sauce.
Salsify, when plainly boiled, may be cut into
inch lengths, and served with any simple salad
dressing cold.
Bhubarb Pie, Cut in short pieces, stripping
off the skin, and pour over it boiling water,
letting it stand live minutes, then pour the water
oflf. Mix one cup of sugar with a large table-
spoonful of flour, or a small one of Corn starch,
upon this pour enough boilins water only to dis-
solve each ; pour into the pie tin or plate, pre-
viously lined with crust, and into this syrup put
the Pie plant as thick as you need. Sprinkle the
top with dry flour, and put in a few raisins if
liked, a little grated Lemon or Orange peel or
extract of Lemon, cover with a thin top crust
with opening for the steam to pass out, and bake
until a light brown.— O. C. Farmer.
Parsnip Fritters. Take two or three large
Parsnips, boil them, without peeling or trim-
ming, until tender. Mash them up, and then
pass them through a sieve to remove all strings
and fiber. To every quart of the Parsnip allow
four eggs, well beaten, and four tablespoonfuls
of sifted flour, or like proportion for less or
more Parsnips. Beat the mixture together,
seasoning to taste with salt and pepper and a
good spoonful of fresh butter ; when it is very
light, drop it by large spoonfuls into boiling
lard and when well browned lay on a hot dish
before the fire. These should be served at once,
as standing don't improve anything that has eggs
in it, and is fried. Some people eat them with
sugar.— Good Housekeeping.
Asparagus. The nicest way to serve Aspara-
gus is on toast with drawn butter poured over it.
Boil it whole in water with a little salt. Prepare
some nice evenly-toasted bread, lay the Aspara-
gus on the toast and season it with pepper and
salt and a very little butter. Then pour over it
a drawn butter sauce. This is best served on a
platter, as one piece should not be put on top of
another. For the drawn butter, rub one table-
spoonful of flour with one-quarter of a pound
of butter, put this in a saucepan with a teaspoon-
ful of milk, set this in a dish of boiling water
and shake it until the butter melts and nearly
boils. It tshould come to the boiling-point but
not be allowed to boil, as that would make it
oily and unfit for use. Prairie Farmer.
Bhubarb Shortcake. This can be made the
same as other fruit cake. It is best, however,
when cream of tartar or baking powder is used
for the crust to bake the crust alone, and spread
the stewed Rhubarb between the layers just
before sending to the table. For a family of
eight this quantity will suffice: six cups of
flower, three teaspoonfuls of baking powder,
butter size of an egg rubbed in the flour with
the powder, add cold water or sweet milk enough
to make a soft dough, bake in two cakes ; when
done split, spread with Pie plant stewed and
sweetened, with flavoring if liked, and send to
the table hot. Hard sauce of butter and sugar
can be eaten with it, or if something lighter is
preferred for sauce, use two tablespoonfuls of
Corn starch dissolved with milk, add boiling
water sufficient to cook it clear, then add one
cup of sugar, one tablespoon of cream or butter;
flavor with Lemon or Vanilla.— Orange Co.
Farmer.
HOUSE PLANTS.
Annuals, such a.s Balsam, Aster, etc., sown in boxes,
may be used as window plants in homes in crowded
streets. Rural people wlil prefer to have them growing
In the open border.
Azaleas to be repotted and moved out.
Besonias of the flowering kind will be suited by a
position in a sunny window kept slightly shaded. They
need plenty of light, yet little direct sun&hlne. Rex
Begonias need about the same treatment, but are sat-
isfied with still less direct sunlight.
Cactus to be shifted at once If needed this season.
Many varieties may be bedded out to advantage.
Callas may be bedded out. Turn them out from
their pots, and pull apart all those that are large, so as
to reduce them to a desirable size. Prepare a shallow
trench and manure it as is done for Celery. This gives
every chance of affording the Callas plenty of moist-
ure, as they may be flooded occasionally. The distance
at which to place them in the trench depends on the
size of the plants, but in a general way IS Inches to two
feet Is ample. After planting, mulch, which will
shade the ground and help to maintain a uniform con-
dition of moisture.
Camellias. A shady place out doors sheltered from
winds, is just the spot for them. They need frequent
watering and sprinkling.
Chrysanthemums should now make rapid growth,
and will need to be shifted whenever the ball of earth
appears to be covered with masses of roots.
Cyclamens may also go out in the open border,
which is probably the easiest way to carry them
through the summer.
Fuchsias, G-eraniums and other house plants make
handsome pot plants for fall blooming, if propagated
latter part of the month, and kept pinched back for
eight weeks. Wlnter-flowerlng Fuchsias should be
given a rest.
G-eneral Management. The easiest way to manage
all house plants during the summer months Is to move
them to the open border, or other summer quarters,
the hardier ones, like Agaves, Azaleas, Oleanders, Hy-
drangeas, Daphnes, etc., first, and at the end of the
month the more tender ones. All larger plants can
best be shifted at the beginning of the season's growth.
Neat tubs or boxes add much to the beauty of fine
plants. Most of the house plants do well in summer In
partial shade. If left In pots, labor in their care may
be saved by plunging them in sand, soil or coal ashes.
Hydrangeas should go out now. Give an occa-
sional dose of liquid manure to induce stronger growth
and finer flowers.
Insects. Syringe frequently, and try to keep the
atmosphere about the plants as moist as possible.
Oleanders to be treated like Hydrangeas.
Oxalis and Ixias when done flowering should have
the pots turned on their sides to ripen the roots. Later
shake them out, wrap In paper and keep them dry.
Palms and kindred plants make the best of house
plants for the summer months; but it Is a good way to
bed thf m out with all the rest of the plants. Shift if
needed. This Is usually not required oftener than
once In two years.
Petunias for fall blooming. See Fuchsias.
LAWN AND FLOWER GARDEN.
Annuals of all kin<ls may now be sown in open
border. Sow In drills, clumps or rings rather than
broadcast. Fine seeds need not be covered deep, but
the soil should be well firmed over them. All seeds
start better in moist soil than when soil is kept soaked
all the time.
Oaladium esculentum needs rich soil, all the better
If nearly one-half manure. Provide this and plenty of
moisture If you desire to get the enormous growth one
sometimes sees on city lawns, Cannas may be treated
same way for similar effect.
Dahlias to be planted out about the ndddle of month*
DutchBulh beds when done blooming ma> be cleared
of the bulbs by digging them with tops and what soil
will adhere to the roots, left on. and heeling in in some
out-of-the-way place, so they wilt have a chance to
mature properly. The beds may then be replanted
with otiier bedding plants.
Evergreens can still be planted with safety by using
the simple precaution of keeping their roots moist
while out of the ground.
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
181
Ferns should bcplaiiltMl early lu sha<iy or halfshatl.v
places, aud in light well drained soil. Many of our
uatlve sorts are quite ornamental, and require only
a little care in watering them during the dry season,
slight protection during winter, and an occasional top
dressing of manure.
General Directions. The ground between the plant*
in the lK>rder. etc., should be frequently broken and
stirred, which can usually be done lu the easiest ana
most effective manner by means of a narrow steel rake.
For deeper tillage a hoe may be used occasionally.
This treatment disposes of weed growth long before It
can become troublesome, and will stimulate the plants.
Gladiolus to be planted at least three inches deep.
Law^n to be mowed as soon as a little growth of gras^
has been made. Repeat every two weeks or oftener.
Keep the edges tidj' by using an edging knife several
times during the season.
Lilies. A mulch of Tobacco stems or dust two or
three inches thick on the beds will tend to keep the
green fly away.
Morning Glories are very serviceable In hiding
stumps, fences and otherunslghtly objects. In beauty
and ease of cultivation they are hardly equalled by any
other climber.
Perennials of most kinds may still be transplanted
by exercising due care.
Phlozes. The improved hardy sorts make excellent
border plants. Support by stake.
Planting. Carnations, Stocks. Verbenas and all other
of the more hardy plants may be set in border or bed
without further delay. The tender sorts, like Coleus.
Altemantheras, Tuberoses, etc.. should not be thus eX:
posed until we are sure of continued warm weather.
PLANT CULTURE UNDER GLASS.
Air to be given in abundance to all plants.
Achimenes love moist are, plenty of air, warm tem-
perature and a somewhat shaded position.
Aslors and Balsams require a rich, light, sandy soiL
They make most excellent pot plants. Air and water
freely, and do not let them become pot-bound.
Cinerarias. If any plant is to be propagated, fill the
pot almost to the brim with sandy compost, and when
the suckers have formed root, divide and pot each
separately.
Fuchsias that have flowered during winter should
now be allowed some rest by partially withholding
water. See also under House Plants.
Gloxinias may be treated as ad^"ised for Achimenes.
Orchids, such as Dendrobiums, Stanhopeas, Aerides,
Saccolablums, Vandas. etc., need plenty of water and
moisture In the atmosphere at this time, or else must
necessaiily suffer.
Pelargoniums to do their best and remain in flower
for any length of time should have shade, plenty of
air and not too much heat.
Propagation. Heliotropes and Tropaeolums for
winter flowering may be propagated towards latter
part of month; also a general collection of such things
as will be useful for winter decoration, including plants
with ornamental foliage and for ferneries, also Ivies,
etc. See also Fuchsias, under House Plants.
Shelves. To save space at this crowded season, Ly-
copodiuni, Linaria, Moneyvlne, Tradeseanthia. etc.,
may be grown on narrow shelves placed half way be-
tween the walk and the bottom of the benches. Their
growth Is not much retarded by the shade.
Summering Plants. Of those that are to be kept
over summer In pots, many kinds can go outside tow-
ards last of month. The pots should be plunged In soil
or other material to prevent their drying out rapidly.
Placing them on a deep layer of coal ashes will keep
the angle worms out.
Watering should be faithfully attended to in this
season of rapid growth and dry atmosphere. Allowing
any plant to become thoroughly dry always acts us a
check and a permanent injury. The walks in green-
houses and conservatories should be sprinkled often,
and water syringed under the benches. This will keep
the atmosphere moist and discourage the red spider.
FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD.
Blackberries. Clean up the patch, and get ready for
the fruiting season. Do not allow the rows to spread
too far.
Insects should not be allowed to get a foothold.
Spraying the trees with arsenical solutions, preferably
of Paris green, is now practiced by all good orchardists,
and it will dispose of the codling worm, the tent cater-
pillar and all other leaf eaters, also of the curcullo.
For the latter the spray may be thrown upon the tree
as sc»on as the first leaves appear. Apple trees should
be sprayed just after the bloom is past. Never spray
any kind of tree when in bloom, as this would endan-
ger the bees, and these are the best assistants of the
fruit grower. Hunt up the borers and kill them; also
wash the Ixxlles of trees near the ground with some
strong alkaline solution. Powdered hellebore, either
dry or In solution, is a sure remedj' for the Currant
worm. Tobacco tea and the kerosene emulsion are
sure cures for green aphis or plant lice.
Manoring. It is not too late this month to apply
some concentrated manure to crowd the Blackberry
and Raspberry crop to a higher state of perfection.
iSWpoundsof dissolved bone, suupoimds of sulphate of
potash and ^ftxi pounds of nitrate of soda will make a
ton of mixture which. If applle<l to the plants as liber-
ally as you can afford, will make all hands happy at
fruiting time, says Mr. J. H. Hale.
Packages. Always make provision for your supply
of berry boxes, crates and all other fruit packages long
before they are actually needed. This precaution often
saves vexation and annoyance. Mark all packages
neatly with stencil plate, unless you expect to be
ashamed of your own fruit.
Pruning. All buds on budded stock, except the one
inserted should be removed as they start to grow.
Raspberries. The new growth of canes which are
to furnish the fruit next year should be pinched off
when 15 to 18 Inches high. Along the last of the month
or early In June they grow so rapidly they are likely to
get two or three feet high before we know it unless we
give them close attention. It is best to pinch them
back just at the right time.
Staking and tying judlcously will often straighten
crooked trees.
Strawberries. Cut off all blossoms or fruit stalks
from newly planted Strawberries as fast as they appear.
The few Inferior berries you would get by leaving them
would not begin to repay the loss in the vigor of plant
growth. Start the cultivator among the newly set
plants, and keep the weeds out.
Tillage. Orchards of Peaches, Plums, Dwarf Pears,
and gulnces should have clean cultivation year after
year. Harrowing with a Disk harrow is probably the
most satisfactory method of stirring the soil between
the trees, if given often enough. There is less danger
of barking the bodies of trees or tearing their roots;
and it requires much less time than plowing. Hoed
crops such as Beans, Cabbages, Potatoes or other veg-
etables may be grown between young tiees. Buck-
wheat is also a good orchard crop. Give the necessary
fertilizer and tillage to produce good crops as named,
and your young trees will also do well.
Thinning orchard fruits has now become an estab-
lished practice with the best growers. Try it at least
with a few trees, and note the difference.
VEGETABLE GARDEN.
Asparagus. In cutting try to keep away with the
knife from the crown of plants. Don't fail to set out 50
or lOU plants for home use if there Is no bed on your
premises now.
Beans. Begin planting the bush sorts. , The Llmas
should not go into the ground until this has become
thoroughly warm. Then plant in hills, after the poles
are set, from four to six Beans around the pole, after-
wards thinning to two or three of the best plants. We
prefer to train to wire trellis and plant in continuous
row, rather thickly, thinning to about six or eight
Inches apart.
Beets may be sown any time this month, and up to
early June if for winter use.
Carrots for main crop to be sown at once. Keep
down the weeds from the start.
Cabbage from cold frames may be set in well ma-
nured soil and the ground kept well stirred.
Celery. The seed beds should be kept scrupulously
clean from weeds, the ground between the rows fre-
quently stirred or loosened up, and the plants thinned
where at all thick. Crow-ding makes poor plants.
Cucumbers may be planted in open ground latter
part of the month. For early a few hills may be started
now under glass on pieces of inverted sod, or in pots,
to be transferred to open ground later.
Dandelion. Sow seed In open ground.
E gg Plant. Keep the plants in good heat right along,
transplant in old Tomato cans, or large pots or boxes,
and transfer to open ground about June 1st. Potato
bugs are very fond of the plant.
Horse Radish. Sets to be planted between rows of
Early Cabbages.
Hot-beds to be kept well aired and watered. When
vacant they may be planted withMelons or Cucumbers,
one hill in center of each sash.
Lettnce. Sow for succession. Transplant In rich
soil in rows 12 or 15 inches apart, with eight inches space
between the plants.
Melons need rich soil and should be protected from
the attacks of the yellow striped bug. By all means
trj- Emerald Gem of the Musk varieties, and the Volga
of the Water Melons for home use.
Onions. Begin cultivating and weeding just as early
as the rows can be seen plainly, and keep it up. Prompt-
ness here Is indispensable to success.
Peas of the first early smooth kinds can now be
planted even at the extreme north. Seed of the ten-
derer, finer wrinkled kinds is apt to rot In the ground
if sowed when this is yet cold and wet. Try Bliss'
Abundance, Bliss'. Everbearing. Stratagem, York-
shire Hero, etc. All these are most excellent sorts
for rich soils. Manures containing considerable potash
are best for Peas. The very dwarf sorts, like Anterlcan
Wonder, should be plan ted on the very richest soil only.
Rhubarb should have the flower stalks broken out.
Squashes to be planted after the ground has become
thoroughly warmed through, and on rich or well-
manured soil only. Guard against the striped bug.
Succession. Always plan to have the whole ground
occupied with a desirable crop all through the season,
and plant of the quick maturing vegetables, like Rad-
ishes, Peas, Lettuce, Beets. Com, etc., so to have a suc-
cession as long as desired.
Sweet Corn. Plant every week. By proper man-
agenient a supply maj' be had imtil frost, and a lot of
fine fodder produced for the cow.
Sweet Potatoes to be set latter part of the month or
early In June, in well-enrlched ridges four feet apart,
with 18 to 24 Inches space between the plants.
Tomatoes. A few early plant* may be set by middle
of montii if the ground Is warm and the season fair;
but they need watching, and perhaps protection during
cold nights. The main crop at the north should not
be planted until about June 1st.
Weeds. Those crops planted in rows can now be
worked by some hand wheel-hoe, lea\"ing but little
hand weeding jo be done In the rows, but this little
must be done promptly. In a few days weeds w^Ill
smother a crop of Carrots beyond remedy. Begin early.
FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER
GLASS.
Cucumbers in frames need plenty of sim and light,
and careful airing. Look out for cold nights.
Grapes. Thin the vines in cool houses, but do not
handle the berries. Keep the early crops that approach
maturity, rather dry, and In a day temperature of about
TlT. with ti5« at night.
Peaches when approaching ripeness need less syring-
ing and watering at the roots. Gather the fruit before
dead ripe and keep in shallow boxes, keeping In a dry
airy room until just right for use.
Pineapples are now making strong growth. Keep
house moist by frequent applications of water to the
walks, etc. Some fire is yet needed, but it need not be
very brisk.
Strawberries. Plant out the plants after fruiting.
THE POULTRY YARp.
Darken the Nest, It will prevent hens from
eating their eggs.
No success without Dry Floor. It may be of
brick, or. better far, rubble mixed with cement.
Bedding for Clucks. Short cut straw, dry
sifted ashes— all these are good for bedding in
coops and broodeis, and should be renewed ire-
quently.
Eggs for Hatching, Use no eggs for hatching
purposes that are not of good shape, of arerage
size, and as fresh as it is possible to oDtain them.
Never handle with greasy hands.
Charred Grain. Charcoal is much appreciated
bj' the ff^wls. The best is formed ot charred
grain. <.orn roasted hke Cotfee and ted twice a
week would no doubt pay for the trouble.
Have a Place for Sitters. It is best to have a
separate apartment for sitters in order to pre-
vent fighting on the nests and breaking the eggs.
Lice also thrive under sitting hens, and ttie nests
should be well dusted with Dubach as a precau-
tion.—Mirror and Fanner.
Over Attention Hurtful. My wife had a hen
that she sat on thirteen eggs in the poultry house
and looked after her every day. Another ben
" stole ■" a nest on the side of the hill, undera
little bush, and without any attention brought
otf nme fine little chicks, while the other only
hatched tour.— Ex.
The Mandarin Duck. When in full summer
dress, the male of the Mandarin duck, from the
north of China, is said to be tbe most beautiful
bird of the duck tribe. It somewhat resembles
our summer duck in size, shape aud color, but is
infinitely more beauiiluJ. These ducks were
iutroduced into Holland about 18.50.
How to Feed Bones. The hens will always
prefer bones when pounded and broken into
pieces the size ot a grain of Corn. Bone meal,
ground bone or bone that has been bleached, is
not alwa5's acceptable, but fresh bones pounded
will be preterred by the hens to anything else,
and often inJuce them to lay when many other
methods fail. —Farm and Fireside.
Health for the Ducks. Success cannot be
attained by feeding Corn meal and water and
meat scraps. The lood of the duck, when rang-
ing streams and meadows, their favorite haunts,
consists of irogs, fish worms, insects, ana gram.
With this diet they also get an abundance of
gritty material, such as sand, gravel and the
Shells of small shell tish.— Farm Journal.
The Fekin Duck. There are poultry farms in
New Jersey and elsewhere where Pekin duck-
lings are raised by thousands every j'ear. The
owners- usually soon learn that, it well managed,
there is more money in raising them than in
raising chicks for broilers. At least this is
proven by the fact that some of these poultry
people have been raising more ducks and fewer
chicks every year.
Chicks need Warmth. They should never be-
come chilled. A single nights crowding together
may be tatal. When you go to the brooder in tbe
morning, and find some ol them dead without
apparent cause, it means that they have crowded
together tor warmth and the life crushed out of
those that were aown. A young chick is as ten-
der as a young baby. In tact, it is really naked,
and no mode of feeding will undo the mischief
from lack of warmth.
l82
POPULAR GARDENING.
May,
CoTTespoitdtnts are urged to anttcipalr' the season in pre-
senting questions. To ask, for instance, on April 16 or 20
what Peas had best be sown, could bring no answer in
the May issue, and none before June, when the answer
would he unaeuaonable . Questions received tMifort the X'ith
of any nn^nth stand a good chance of being answertd tn the
next paper. Not more than three questions should be sent
at one time. Answers tu questions bearing on tne com-
parative vaiue of implements, etc., offered by different
dealers must not be expected . Neither can we promise to
comply tpiih tne request sometimes made to "pleufie aTswer
by mail." Inquiries appearing utithout name belong to the
name next following.
Rmlies to Inquiries are eai'nestly requested from our
readers. In answering such give the number, your
loaality and name, the latter not /or puttlioation, unless
you desire. Write only on one aide of the paper.
1781. Number of Vines in Grapery. How many
vines can be grown in a lean toUrapery of about Ifi by 9
feet? Is it aosolutely necessary to prepare a border
for so few vines?— H. L. N.
1782. Pruning the Pear for Fruit. Will cutting
back the shoots increase number of fruit buds? When
is best time, and how much should be cut back? What
other fruit trees will be benerlted by cutting back ?— D.
P. — Indiana.
1783. Eucharis. What Is best method of making it
bloom ?
1784. Oestrums. How propagated ?— Subscriber.
178.T. Market for Mushrooms. With constant sup-
ply wiiere can i liuU a market, and at what price and
fluctuations?— W. J. A., A'. Y.
1786. Snowdrop Tree. What is size, hardiness and
amount of bloom of the Halesia in the latitude of Chi-
cago, Illinois?
1787. Prunus Tribulata. How will it succeed in
the latitude of Chicago?— T. H. E. Ills.
1788. Manetti Rose Stock. What is the difference
between this and the Dog Hose? Which is best for
stock, and how propagated?— L. R. H., Ilia.
17S9. Starting Dahlias. How done for Boston
market.- C. E. J., Mass.
179U. Moving Large Trees. Can Maple and Beech
trees S to 5 inches thick be moved about May 1st, and
how?— W. U. D., A', r.
1791. Crops in Shade. Can any vegetables, fruits or
flowers be grown successfully In the shade; if so,
which are they?— Mrs. J. T.C., 31ass.
1792. Insects on House Rose. It is infested by spi-
ders which are green, not red. What are they, and
what can 1 do for them?— Rose.
1793. Root Grafts. Is it true that fruit trees are
much better if grafted on whole roots, or at least on
the crown pieces, ihan on sections from below the
crown?— Subscriber, Mich.
1794. Low Land for Onion and Celery. How made
available?— D. R., Ohio.
1795. Ferns from Seed. How sown and managed?—
R. T. S.
1796. Exotic Grape Plants. How are they started
from single eye?— Jai',, Mo.
1797. Plugging Trees for Disease. Will boring holes
in the trunk of fruit trees, and fltllng with Iron, blue
vitriol, or sulphur prevent or cure disease?— Doubting
Thomas.
1798. Preserving Mushrooms. How Is this done in
simplest manner?— G. H. K,, Pa.
1799. Seeding the Lawn. How much lawn grass
will it take for one. half acre of new lawn, and what
kind?— P. J. Randall, O.
1800. Potash Salts for Strawberries. When should
they be applied, and what (luantity per acre?- J. W. D.
1801. Palm Seeds. Where can I buy them, and
when is best time to sow?— E. D., Wis.
1802. Wall Flowers. How managed after flowering
in pots, to keep them tor flowering next winter?- Geo,
B. D., Yancey s Mills, Va.
1803. Household Pests. What remedies are there
for carpet beetles, clothes moths, ants, etc?- Warmoth.
1804. Rose Leaf Hopper. Please tell me a remedy.
— S. T. W., Columhus.
1805. Shade for Gooseberries. Do the American
varieties need shade? If so, how much, and at what
season?— A. E. B., Lena, Itl^.
IWe. Book on Cold Storage. Where can I get a
Ijook on building mid storage houses for preserving
frults?-J. D. B., Chvelaiut, <).
1807. Gas Lime. Is this of any value as insecticide
or fertilizer?- J. R. S. Delaware.
1808. House Plants in Summer. What is best
method of summering common house plants?— Wm. S.
H., New York.
1809. Front Fence. Would you recommend Arbor
Vitae, with Irish Junipers placed at corners and at gates
to represent posts? Maple trees are on outside of walk.
— W.H. N., Botkins, O.
1810. Old Man. What is the botanical name of
a bush or shrub, called "Old Man." Leaves very fine;
bush hardy, 2 or feet high.— J. C. M., Leechburg, Pa.
1811. Oypripedium Spectabile. What situation
should I give them in the garden? and what prepara-
lion of bod is necessary for them?— Gardener, Conn.
1812. Black Knot on Plums, etc. What is its true
cause, and what the remedy?— H. P. .W., St. Catha-
rines, Ont.
1813. Geraniums Ailing. Plantsare keptln a warm
room; blooms all blast; leaves curl up, and then die.
What remedy?— Mrs. F. W. L., Ka7isas.
1814. Greenhouse Heating. What Is the best heat-
ing apparatus for small and large house?— C. U. C,
Oshkosh, Wis.
1815. Pruning Pears. How much should standards
be cut back?
1816. Duchess Pear. What is its value as to pro-
ductiveness, form and quality?
1817. Horticultural Literature. What is the best
S5 investment In reading matter on fruit culture?—
OVERISEL.
1818. Brading Machine. Where can a machine to
brad glass In ctmservatory be bought?— J. N., Ontario.
1819. Christmas Rose. Where can It be obtained?—
Mrs. J. J. M., Texas.
1820. Grafting Cherries. Can this be done success-
fully as late as May?— C. L. D. Illinois.
1^21. Growing Lotuses. Can Lotuses be grown
succcssfidly in a large wash tub sunk into the ground?
1822. Sal Soda as Fertilizer. Will this do in place
of potash for Orape Vines?- W. J. M.. Pontiac, Ills.
1823. Trees and Berries. How close to fruit trees
can Blackberries and Raspberries be grown without
detriment to the tree?— Ga.
1824. Currants in Georgia. Will they succeed in
garden culture, and what soil would they requIre?-J.
E,, Augusta, Ga.
1825. Annuals for Shady Position. What flowers
will succeed in bed at north side of house, where sun
strikes only in morning and evening?— J. G. S., Somer-
ville, N. Y.
1826. Plums for Profit. It is safe to plant Spaulding
and Abundance largely?— F. S, W., Bath, N. Y.
1827. Clematis Disease. What remedy can you
suggest for Clematis out-doors?- W, W. D., N. Y.
1828. Rhododendron Culture. Some one of experi-
ence please tell how to care for Rhododendrons.— W.
J. Miller, Illinois.
1829. Sun Scald on Roses. Is It desirable to wrap
the stocks of imported Tea Roses with Sphagnum Moss
duiing the summer to protect from sun scald?— J. B.
D,, Natrona. Pa.
1^30. Mushrooms for Market. How packed for
shipment ?— W. J. A.
REPLIES TO INQUIRIES.
1,713. Table and Koom Decoration. There are
several books published upon this subject and
the querist cannot do better than consult the
eatalogiies of the horticultural publish in glhouses.
But why does he not send his queries to the
editor? He would find the various writers
willing to give all the information in their
power. A large number of plants are available
for the purposes mentioned, and many ot them
are of simple culture. Very many fail in
growing window pUmts owing entirely to their
inability to it ttrnd to details. The beauty of a
room or tablr ;ils(Mlcpends upon the amount of
taste and the ability to arranfre plants to the
best advantage that the operator may possess.
Among plants suitable lor tal>Ie decoration are
Azalias, the Umbrella Palm, the India Rubber,
Chama-rops Fortune!, the Bourbon Palm, several
of the Acacias, Corypha Australis, Corculigo
recurvata, Cyperus alternifolius, Crotons, Dra-
caenas, and many others. For windows we have
a very large number to select from, as Gerani-
ums, Fuchsias, Verbenas, and bulbous plants,
while for climbing plants there are the vaiious
kinds of Ivies, the Cypress vine, the Balloon
vine. Sweet Peas and many others. The above
are only mentioned to aid in a selection— H.W.S.
1,814. Greenhouse Heatingr. There are a large
number of firms who manufacture boilers for
both hot water and steam heating, and each of
them claims to have the best system. We are not
aware that impartial comparative teste have
been made with any of these, for the reason that
it would be not only a delicate, but also an ex-
pensive undertaking to settle <lefiiiitely the true
merits of each of these boilers and their com-
parative value. On general luiiu-ipk- we believe
in hot water heating for very Ismail houses, and
conditionally', in stfuin heating for hu'^^c liouses;
but at present w* can do little el.'-;e t)ut advise
our imiuirer to apply to the various advertising
manufacturers of heating apparatus for their
catalogues and prices, and then make such a
selection as his own judgment would dictate.
He can not go entirely amiss, as no reliable firms
now-a-days would send onfaii apparatus of this
kind, that would not do good service if properly
put up and managed.
1,810. Old Man. This is probably an Artemisia,
the well-known Southern Wood^ A.7'temesia Ahro-
tanum, with finely divided leaves-having a fra-
grant, aromatic odor. The common Kosemarj',
Rofimarlnu!< otRcinalis, from which the oil used in
making the fragrant waters (Eau de Cologne) is
derived by distillation, sometimes goesundei the
common name "Old Man."— Gr. R.
1,753. Fish Oeraniums not Blooming. The
cause of the trouble most likely is that the plants
are stimulated too highly, and have altogether
too much root room. Treat them a little less
liberally in these directions, and you will prob-
ably get bloom.— G. K. |
1,801, Palm Seed. Aug. Rolker & Sons, 44 Dey
street. New York, are wholesale dealers in flower
and tree seeds, and import Palm and similar seeds
on order, but we do not think they keep the
latter in stock. Spring is the usual time for sow-
ing Palm seeds.— G. R.
1,795. Raising Ferns from Seed. Some of the
commoner kinds of Ferns come readilj'' from
self-sown spores when there happens to be a
damp surface under ornear where the pots are
stood. In the case of such, says a foreign ex-
change, unless where large numbers are required,
there is no necessity for making any special pro-
vision for raising them. But there are many
species, comprising the rarest and most prized
kinds, that are very seldom obtainable unless the
spores are gathered at the right time and sown.
Where stock of any particular sort is to be raised.
it is well to sow as soon as the spores are ready.
The best way to proceed is to drain some moder-
ate sized seed-pans and fill them with a mixture
of sifted peat, broken sandstone, or crocks, and
enough sand to keen the material sweet. Fill the
pans moderately full, press the soil down fairly
firm, make the surface smooth, and then water
it well. The spores may either be shaken out
from the fronds, rubbed off, or the fronds may
be taken and cut into small pieces and sown witn
the spores attached to them. In either case sow
moderately thickly, and press them gently with
the hand on the soil. The pans should then be
stood in others that are a size or two larger, and
that are water-tight, so as to hold a little water.
This will be absorbed by the pans in which the
spores are sown. By this means the necessity
for giving water over-head will be avoided, and
in this way there will be no lianger of the spores
getting washed down into the soil.
1,808. Summering House Plants. A good
answer to this query is given in Vicks' Magazine.
Whether greenhouse and window plants in gen-
eral should be kept in their pots or turned into
the open ground for the summer, says our con-
temporary, depends upon what is desired of them.
Probably most plants can be trained into better
form in pots than in the open ground, and if one
does not care for the labor, but seeks the best
results in the form of his plants, continuous pot
culture is best. But to lessen labor, most gar-
deners now turn their greenhouse plants out of
pots and into the open border for summer, and
repot about the fii-st of September. As a rule,
plants are cut back when so turned out. Aza-
leas may need attention to pruning some little
time before they are put out. We prefer to
plunge the pots of Azaleas in sand in the garden,
and not turn them out, though some gardeners
do so. Before these plants are turned out, and
when they have done blooming, the week wood
can be cut out and the shoots shortened, and a
top dressing of about an inch of fresh soil be
given to them.
1,807. Gas Lime. Some time ago we inquired
of Prof. G. C. Caldwell of the t'hcmical Depart-
ment of Cornel! University about the value of
gas lime. The following is an extract of his
reply : Gas lime is composed chiefiy of carbon-
ate of lime, and varying quantities of sulphate
of lime or ordinary plaster, sulphite and sulp-
hide of lime, and more or less unchanged lime.
The sulphite and sulphide are harmful to vegeta-
tion ; but on exposure of the gas lime for a con-
siderable time to the air, they become changed
to the useful sulphate. The carbonate is of
little value, and only the sulphate and the un-
changed lime can be considered of any use. I
do not value the material much as a fertilizer;
for after an exposure to the air, to render the
sulphide and the sulphite harmless.the unchanged
lime will also in this time, be converted to car-
bonate so that only the sulphite is left to be use-
ful, and if I were going to use land plaster I
would prefer to buy it outright, and know what
I have. As an insecticide its use would be dan-
gerous, because of its etfects upon the plant
itself, unless it has been well aired, and as for its
usefulness in this lespect after being thus aired,
it w<tuM l)e same as a mixture of plaster and
chalk. Some few farmei"s report good results with
gas lime as a fertilizer, but not many, and others
report the crops killed to which it was applied.
1,820. Grafting Cherries. We have done this
repeatedly in May with entire success, even in as
mild a climate as that of N. J. The following
statement is credited to Prof. J. L. Budd of Iowa:
When a few essential conditions are regarded, I
have found the Cherry quite as easy to graft as
the Apple. The Main requisite in top-working is
to have the cell structure of stock and cion in
the same condition. To secure the dormant
stock we must graft early, yet the success will
hinge upon the condition of the cion. On this
same iTineiple we ran graft the Cherry when
the buds have starti-d in the spring, if we cut the
cions as needed from treesabout equally .started.
As to rout gia fling, the same prinei pie holds good;
cions mu.vt l)e in about the same <-ondition as to
starting eireulation. If both are la the dormant
fondition ami the root grafts are kept in a cold
eelhir where (liey will not start until they are
set in nursery, nearly all will grow. The past
summer, we saved 95 per cent of all the Cherry
root grafts put out.
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
>83
1,823. Trees and Berries. Jtuch will depend
on kind of trees and their ai?e. It the trees are
of slow (frowtb. Apples, Plums, Cherries, etc.,
and newly set out. Blackcap Kaspberries mijfht
for a few years be set as close as four feet to
them, but on general principles it would be
better even than to stay at a little more respect-
ful distance. .-\11 suokorin(t bush fruits, like Red
Hasplx'rries and especially lilackberries, are too
apt to encroach upon the trees, and deprive them
of room, food and moisture, to allow of being
planted very close to the trees, even when these
are newlv planted. We would plant all such,
and preferably even Blackcaps, only in rows be-
tween the tree rows, not in the latter rows them-
selves, and have the bush fruit rows not less
than eight feet apart from the tree rows. A
combination of this kind will do very well for a
number of years, provided that the necessary
amount of fertilizer is put on the land, to feed
both trees and bush fruits.— (3. K.
I.SS*. Currants in Oeorgia. We have no doubt
that Currants would succeed with you under
garden culture if planted in good loam and in a
cool half-shady situation. We believe you will
Und the north side of a fence or wall, or a gar-
den with only trees enough to slightly temper
the fierceness of the summer sun. just the place
where Currants will do their best with you. At
least it is worth the trial.— G. R.
1.821. Orowine Lotnaes. Yes, Lotuses, like
Water Lilies and other aquatic plants, can be
grown in wash tubs sunk into the ground. It
will be necessary, however, to have the tub
strong and well-hooped, so it will not be liable to
give out. The culture being same as Water
Lilies, we quote the following hints, concerning
ponds and tubs, from O. J. Farmer : Many per-
sons are not aware of the ease with which Water
Lilies can be made to grow and bloom in all
their beauty and fragrance in the yard, with the
trifling cost of constructing a small pond, or
sinking in the ground an old tub, or barrel sawn
in halt, and kept filled with water during the
summer, covering up with straw and boards
in the winter to keep from freezing. The ponds
should be made about two feet deep; for Lilies
bloom better in shallow than in deep water. Get
some healthy, knotty roots, cover but slightly
with rich mud, till with water, and the job is
ended. For tubs, take any strong barrel free
from tar, oil or salt ; old molasses, or whiskey
barrels are about the best, for the nature of their
contents presupposes them strong and well
hooped. If an old wagou tire he driven snugly
on the bottom and tlie tub well painted, they
will last a dozen years or more. Xow saw the
barrel in two at the bung, fill eaclj half full of
fine loam, or if the barrel be a large one, only
fill about a third full, lay in the roots, straighten
out the small fibers, and cover to the depth of
about two inches, and if it is intended to put
fish in, overlay with coarse gravel to prevent the
fish from burrowing down and exposing the
fibrous roots until all are well set. Now sink
the tub to a level with the ground, and fill very
gently with rain or river water ; well water is
not natural to acquatic plants. I venture that
ninety per cent of the failures to grow plants in
this way are the result of using well water. Re-
plenish the tubs with water from time to time,
to supply evaporation; this is all the care they
need. If desirable, these tubs may be set on a
platform on rollers, instead of sunk in the
ground, and can thus be kept indoors during the
winter. Kept filled with water, they will come
out early in the spring.— G. R.
1.822. Sal Soda as Fertilizer. Sal soda is
merely an impure carbonate of soda. Its direct
fertilizing value depends on the amount and
character of its impurities. For many domestic
purposes this washing soda serves as a substitute
for potash ; but plants will hardly be thus put
off. If derived from sea weed, one of its im-
purities, most likely, will be potash, and this
alone can impart to the material any value as
direct plant food. This value, however, will
hardlv be large, and it is very uncertain at best,
as sal'soda is very variable, and may not contain
any potash. Of course it would not pay to pur-
chase it for fertilizing purposes, at anything like
the usual rate paid for it.— G. K.
1.826. PlTuns for Profit. We have a favor-
able opinion of the Botan Plum, which has
been sent out for a number of years under this
name by eastern nurserymen, and more recently
was introduced as Abundance. It is an early
and sure bearer where we have seen it, and its
fruit quite handsome and palatable, although
only of medium size. The Spaulding is also a
sure and abundant cropper in New Jersey, but
we have no means of knowing how it will do else-
where, and we are not by any means fully con-
vinced of the value of the fruit for dessert.
Probably it will be good for canning purposes.
The Botan, however, is decidedly promising
both for home and market growing, and we
would advise our inquirer in Western New York
to try it on a small scale. Until more definite
data are made known of the behavior of the
varieties named in the different localities (the
same as with all other new fruits ), it would be
wise to depend for extensive orchard planting
on the older, known to-be-reliable standard sorts,
the Lombard, Bradshaw, and others of like repu-
titaon.— G. R.
1,827. Clematis Disease. This is a new ail-
ment, and we know ii.< yet little how to handle
it. We are afraid that ashes and lime water will
be of little avail, as the marauders are safel.v
imbedded inside of the galls. It will do no harm
to make the trial, however.
1,7(10. Propagating Cbrysanthemnms. The
plants throw up suckers abundantly from the
roots soon after flowering. These are cut off
below the surface by running a knife into the
soil, and put out in pots or bo.-ses precisely like
cuttings. Light soil with a layer of sand on top
is excellent. The tendency of these plants is
toward too much top growth, and it is best to
take top cuttings from them for the next sea-
son's flowering. An easier way, with sufficient
room is to cut off the old plant about six inches
above ground after lilooming, and later take
cuttings from the new shoots which spring up. —
Fred W. Card.
1,744. Propagatini; Blackberries. Cut the
roots into pieces two or three inches long, in the
full, pack in sand or sphagnum through the
winter and plant out in spring; or the roots may
be taken up in spring, cut and planted immedi-
ately. The former method is more generally
recommended. They are also propagated by
transplanting the suckers.— F. W. C.
1,746. Bnbber Tree Cuttings. These do better
with bottom heat, but can be rooted without it.
Plant in coarse sand, like other cuttings. Cover-
ing with a frame of glass or belljar may assist.
1,751. Budding and Grafting Eoses. Usually
budded. Insert the buds on young wood where
the bark will loosen readily, whenever well
formed buds which have not started into growth
can be had. Such are generally found on
branches bearing a bud or flower.- F. W. C.
1,767. Bnd ding Roses. La Marque is an excel-
lent stock for Marechal Niel ; the roots bear
forcing well.— F. W. Card.
1,776. Planting Dablia. Separate the tubers ;
or better still bring them in early in spring and
just cover with soil in shallow boxes. Take off
the young shoots, with a little piece of the tuber,
as they form and pot them off, planting out later.
1,737. Hydrangea Paniculata. May here be
propagated from cuttings taken in the latter part
of July, or during the month of August. At
this time of the year the young green shoot is
beginning to get firm, and it is found to strike
best when in this condition. The cuttings should
be about three or four inches in lenght, and the
lower leaves should be removed and the cuttings
placed in pots containing a good sandy soil.
They should receive a good watering and then
be stood in a hot-bed or a green-house, where
they mav receive a little bottom heat, and be
protected from the rain. The shoots of last
summer if taken off with a heel and placed in a
hot-bed that may be at work, will grow.— H. W.
Smith, Louisiana.
1,776 Planting Dahlias. The Dahlia tubers
may be planted just as they were taken up, if it
is desired to do so, and it is not required to in-
crease the stock. But treated in this way they
would be rather late coming into flower. The
best way would be to place them in a hot-bed
just as thev were taken up, and when they have
made shoots two or three inches long, to divide
them into as many pieces as plants required
taking care that each piece possess a shoot. It
the plants are divided when first planted, the
risk is incurred of having no Dahlias at all, as no
piece will grow unless it contains an eye.— H.W.S.
1,740. Boses in Greenhouse. The imperfect
buds and drooping leaves may be due to the
want of sufBcient moisture at the roots. If they
are in pots, the soil has probably become dry in
the centre and the water finds its way down by
the side of the pot without moistening the soil
right through as it was intended to do. It would
be well to examine the roots and if the cause is
as suggested, to stand the pots in a tub of water
until the soU becomes thoroughly moistened If
planted out, the ground should be pierced with
a small iron bar before the water is applied.
Sometimes the cause is too much water. Bad
drainage will also have very much the same
effect (irowing the Roses in close damp atmos-
phere] and then opening the sashes when the sun
is shining strongly will cause the leaves to wilt
owing to the rapid manner in which the moisture
is carried off.— H. W. Smith, La.
1 745. Propagating Clematis. The Clematis is
generally propagated by grafting it on the
Traveller's Joy, but this is a method that cannot
be successfully employed by an amateur. It
may be increased from cuttings of the half-
ripened wood taken in summer, but they re-
quire heat to enable them to make roots. The
best plan would be to layer a shoot. This is done
by bending down a shoot, and pegging it firmly
in the ground burying it about two inches deep.
At the tiend a slanting cut should be made about
two inches long beginning on the underside and
going about half way through the shoot. These
layered shoots will require a full twelve months
to make root.— H. W. Smith, La.
1,73-2. Buhach Mannfactnrers. Buhach, the
strongest, best and most reliable insect powder
in the niiirket. is made by the Buhach Producing
and Maiiiitacturing Company, whose address is
Channel street, Stockton, Cal.
I,sl2. Black Knot. This is not caused by an
insect, although insects usuallj' get into the
diseased tissues after they are ruined by the
fungus, or vegetable parasite which causes the
black warty growth. Of course this disease is
extremely contagious, the infinite spores or
seeds of the fungus when ripe being easily scat-
tered about by the winds, and ready to grow
wherever they find suitable conditions, i. e.
young wood of Plum and Cherry trees, and
moisture. The disease can be eradicated by the
prompt use of the knife, cutting out all parts as
soon as noticed to ix- affected, and burning them.
Paring off the wart at an early stage of develop-
ment, and painting the wood with turpentine is
also said to be an effective treatment. At the
same time the trees should be well caied for, and
liberally fed. Your own observation, that " the
worst samples you have seen, were on Plum and
red Cherry trees which had been allowed to eke
out a miserable existence ever since they were
planted, in a tough sod " and that the disease
■'appears to be much less prevalent among trees
that have been well cared for " suggests a very
promising course of treatment.
1.816. Dncbesse ( d'Angonleme ) Pear. This
here and elsewhere is one of the most reliable
and profitable market Pears, especially when
grown on Quince. The following description
found in American Fruit Culturist, fits it to a
dot : " Very large, very obtuse-pyriform, some-
times oblong-obovate, surface uneven ; greenish
j'ellow, often some russet ; stalk an inch to an
inch and a half long, very stout ; cavity deep,
often wide; ealy.\ small, basin uneven; flesh
yellowish white, melting, buttery, juicj", very
good when well grown, poor or worthless when
small ; succeeds admirablj' and does best on
Quince stock. It has been remarked that when
t^iis Pear weighs less than four ounces it is
worthless in na%or. Ripens mid-autumn and
later."
1.817. Horticnltnral Literature. You will
want a good book on fruit culture, Uke the
American Fruit Culturist or Barry's Fruit
Garden, and if you have any specialty, a work
on the cultivation of that particular fruit ; the
balance should be invested in good horticultural
periodicals.
1,800, Potash for Strawberries. It is always
preferable to apply the potash salts, muriate,
kainit, etc., in the the fall or early winter, but
we would not hesitate to put a reasonable quan-
tity, say 200 to 300 pounds per acre, on Straw-
berries in early spring. It should be supple-
mented, however, by applications of bone dust,
or by dissolved bone black, or other plain
superphosphate.
1,793. Boot Grafts. One of our western con-
tempories has the following to say on this sub-
ject : We have strong evidence to place before
our readers that it is best to use crown roots for
grafting— that is the surface section of the root
instead of pieces cut further down. While any
portion will start the cion, the crown portion
will give it the best start. Says Prof. Budd : "I
know from experience that the upper part of the
seedling root makes a better tree than the second
or third section of the same root." (,'ommenting
on this statement of Prof. Budd, Judge Miller
says: "The above is correct in regard to the
crown part of the seedling, and four inches of it
is worth more than eight inches of the next cut.
I don't suppose an.v nurseryman would use a
whole root, as the lower part is simply in the
way. To use four to six inches of the upper
part of the seedling will admit of planting so
that the graft can strike roots readily. I know
this much, that at Stark Bros.' nurseries I par-
ticularly noticed the great superiority of those
whole-root trees over the ordinary ones." Nur-
serymen should make a note of this ; and tree
buvers should endeavor to obtain crown-root
grafts, and take them only from nurserymen on
whose statements they are sure they can rely.
One point is to be remembered about crown-
root grafts. Be sure that the cion roots, and
that no suckers grow from the root grafted into.
1,790. Moving Large Trees. Success depends
largely on the care and thoroughness with which
the work is done. If a good chunk of earth is
left adhering to the roots, pretty large trees can
be moved with entire safety until the buds
begin to start, and even after that date. For
very large trees, we would prefer to do the
moving very early in spring. Let a trench be
dug all around the tree, say two feet or more
from C'cnter, cutting the roots at that distance,
and about that deep. Then when the outside of
that ball of earth is frozen hard enough to keep
the whole unbroken in the mo%ing process, have
the tree lifted out of its place, transferred to its
intended above, where a corresponding hole was
dug previously, and here planted in. Such jobs
can usually be done to best advantage by the
professional house movers.
184
POPULAR GARDENING.
May,
1,739. Oeraniums not Bloomini;. I suspect the
cause of the plants not blooming is that the
temperature of the greenhouse during the winter
months was not high enough To successfully
flower the Geranium during the winter requires
a moderately high temperature. Now that the
days are longer and warmer, your plants will
soon bloom and repay you for all the trouble
that they may have cost you. As they are
making good growth you cannot do better than
continue your present treatment.— H. W. Smith.
1,758. Fiah Oeraniums not Blooming. It the
plants are in the open garden they have no doubt
suffered from the cold weather we lately ex-
perienced and are only just recovering them-
selves. If they are growing in pots in a window,
I would advise that they be moved to a room
where they would recf'i\'e the sunshine for a
longer period. This would aid them, in a good
measure, to produce bloom. — H. W. Smith, La.
1,7*0. Rubber Tree Cuttings. To enable these
to form roots requires a damp atmosphere and a
temperature of between 60 and 70°.— H. W, S.
1,771. Euphorbia Splendens, To grow this
plant well requires a stove temperature. The
pots should be well drained, and a quantity of
small crocks may be mixed with the soil to ad-
vantage. To enable it to do its best it should be
stood in the sunniest part of the greenhouse and
at no time be shaded. It is rather too soon in the
season for the plant to Uower.— H.W. Smith, i,a.
Arbor Day Celebration.
A small beginning only, and without con-
spicuous immediate results— a shade or lawn tree
added here and there ;a schoolhouse site embel-
lished with a bit of bush and tree ; a little senti-
ment poured out in well-set speeches; a home
made more enjoyable, a landscajie more pleasing
—yet it may lead to great things in the future
clothe the barren hillsides and the treeless plains
with valuable forests, temper the climate, and
even the rainfall.
The Forestry Division of the Department
of Agriculture in a circular on .\rbor Day plant-
ing gives the following hints concerning choice
of trees : Trees for school grounds and yards,
along road sides and streets, must be such as are
least liable to suffer from injuries; they should
be compact and symmetrical in shape, free from
objectionable habits, such as bad odors, root-
sprouting, frequent dropping of parts, etc., and
from Insect pests, and if planted for shade,
should have a broad crown and a dense foliage,
budding early in the spring, and retaining leaves
long into the fall. .Vbsence of skillful hands at
tree planting on Arbor Days would also limit
the selection to those which transplant easily
and require the least care. The Division names
as three trees to be planted where nothing else
will grow, easily transplanted, growing rapidly,
but short-lived, liable to injuries, root-sprouting,
etc.: Silver Maple (Acer dasycirpum), Carolina
Poplar (Popultis moniUfera); Box Elder (Ncgun-
do aceroide^). Among the best for street and
lawn, the following are named : Sugar Maple
{Acer saccharitmm); Ked Maple (Acer 7-ubra);
Linden (Til'a Americnna); Elm (Ulmits Ameri- I
cana). Desirable for lawn and yard are also the I
following: Tulip tree (Liriodeiidron tultpifera);
Red Oak {Quercus inihr,)); Willow Oak, (Querciis
phelUis); Black (Jherry (Prunun serotina); Sweet
Gum (Liipiidamhar xtyracifluai.
New Varieties as a Result of Bud
Variation.
There can be no doubt that many varieties
owe their existence to bud variation. Mr.
A. S. Fuller, in his" Propagation of Plants"
mentions among these sports many varie-
gated leaved plants, as the Varigated-leaved
Elder, Dogvsrood, Ginkgo, Maples, etc., also
the Retinispora obtusa Fulleri, thus named
by Dr. Geo. Thnrber, and obtained as a sport
of a Golden Retinispora in Mr. Fuller's pos-
session; a number of well-known varieties
of Roses, Hi the Striped Moss (obtained as a
bud sport of old Red Moss), White Baron
Prevost (obtained in same way from the old
Pink Hybrid Perpetual of the same names),
American Banner, Painted Orleans, etc.
"Among fruits," says Mr. Fuller, " bud var-
iations are constantly occurring, but the
larger number are probably overlooked, and
consequently lost. The Red Magnum Bo-
num Plum is said to have originated from a
bud of the Yellow Magnum Bonum. Many
instances are recorded of Peach trees pro-
ducing Nectarines on one or more branches,
and these sports have frequently been pre-
served and propagated. The seed of Nec-
tarines originating in this way usually pro-
duce Nectarine trees, not reverting to the
Peach."
Mr. C. L. Hopkins, of the Division of Po-
mology, Department of Agriculture, thinks
it desirable that this matter be more fully
investigated, and for this purpose asks those
among our readers who have had practical
e.xperience with "bud variations" among
fruits, and the propagation of new varieties
from this source, to give an account through
our columns.
The points about which definite informa-
.small garden. It needs no further descrip-
tion, except to say, that the frame may be
made about fifteen inches square, and the
stakes about two feet high from the ground.
A New Enemy of the Elm.
The imported Elm-leaf beetle has for
some time been doing considerable mischief
among Elm trees in City avenues and
parks. Now another insect enemy of this
tree has been imported, and seems to have
already gained a foothold here, threatening
destruction to our Elms.
This isthe Elm-twig-borer,Zcuzerap{/n"7io
which in the image stage is a very hand-
am
THE;eLM twig borer, a MALE; b FEMALE; C CATERPILLAR.
tion is especially desired, are as follows:
What varieties are positively known to
have originated as the result of budding
with the intention of perpetuating a bud
variation which had been observed ?
What varieties are positively known to
have originated by budding with buds taken
from a positively known source, and all sup-
posed to be the same variety, but among
which a sport or sports were found after-
wards?
Who among' our readers have fruit trees
with natural branches (not the result of
grafting or budding) which produce fruit
distinct from that borne by other portions
of the same tree?
What varieties oftenest show cases of bud
variation in their fruit?
Our practical fruit growers>ow have the
floor.
Trellises and Frames.for Bush Fruits.
Where Raspberries and Blackberries are
grown on a large scale for market, the ex-
pense and labor^involved by the use of even
the simplest form of trellis or frame must
prevent the grower from attempting to do
more than keep the plants within bounds
by heroic pruning. And this usually ans-
wers the purpose very well.
In the home garden, however, we'always
pay somewhat greater attention to conven-
ience and neat appearance than in the field.
If our garden patch is large, we may con-
tent ourselves with setting a simple stake
to each bush, and tie the latter to it some-
what loosely. Or
we may confine
each row of bush-
es within two lines
of wires or laths,
fastened to stakes
set along each side
of the row. All
these are simple
means of keeping
the bushes up-
right, and the
paths between the
rows unobstruct-
S; =isei
^> ed by thorny canes
^^ which are apt to
hook into the
clothes, and perhaps into the flesh of the
good wife and the daughters of the house.
Our illustration shows a way of treating
single bushes, suitable for a few plants in a
some white moth, rather closely spotted
with black, as shown in illustration on
this page. For several years back, writes
the entomologist of the New Jersey Experi-
ment Station to Garden and Forest, single
specimens of the species have been found
in the city of Newark, and their occurrence
has been deemed accidental, owing to the
small number; biit they increased steadily,
and for the past three years they have been
numerous around the electric lights along
Broad street, especially near the parks con-
taining many Elms. This occurrence point-
ed to the Elms as their probable food plant.
Mr. Anglemann, examining the branches
of a felled tree, found the larva of the borer
in considerable numbers in the smaller
twigs, and in burrows in larger branches
found also the pupa. The moth, it seems,
deposits its eggs in the fork of a small
branch, and the young larva burrows down-
ward toward the larger branches, tunneling
generally through the center, and usually
killing the branch. In color the larva is
whitish as is usual with borers, with black
dots, each bearing a single hair, arranged
as shown in the figure, which also gives
very well the general appearance of the
caterpillar.
The terminal branches of many of the
trees in Newark have been noticed to be
dying, but the cause has not been hereto-
fore discovered. There is little doubt that
this insect is responsible for the injury, and
that it has gained a firm foothold. That it
is spreading is indicated by the fact that
during the season of 1889 it made its appear-
anqe at Arlington, a suburb of Newark.
The insects are attracted by light, and many
hundreds of them are drawn to the electric
lights and destroyed; they are mostly
males, however. There is no reasonable
doubt that this destruction of the moths has
done much to prevent a more rapid spread,
and it is to be feared that once out of the
influence of the electric lights their march
will be rapid.
As to remedies, I have no suggestion to
make at present. Borers are hard to deal
with at best, and a borer that attacks
branches from sixty to seventy-five feet
above the ground is an especially unsatis-
factory creature to deal with. Heroic reme-
dies would be best here, and I recommend
free cutting and burning of affected
branches as the best means of checking
their increase and spread.
POPULAR GARDENING
AND FRUIT GROWING.
"ACCUSE XOr yATlTBE, SHE BATH DONE HER PART: DO THOU BUT THINE." -HjutOS.
Vol. V.
j'crasT'E, X8SO.
No. 9.
O June : the month of merry song.
Of shadow brief, of sunshine long ;
All things on earth love you the best,—
The bird who carol near his nest :
The wind that wakes and, singing, blows
The spicy perfume of the Rose :
And bee, who sounds his muffled horn
To celebrate the dewy mom ;
And even all the stars above
At night are happier for love.
As if the mellow notes of mirth
Were wafted to them from the earth.
O June ! such music haunts your name ;
With you the summer's chorus came !
—St. Ktcholas.
Fractiosal Ctbbe.vct. We need it, we want
It. What is Congress going to do about it?
Their own Senses must now convince rural
people that fruit trees may be planted for orna-
ment, for beauty, and for fragrance, as well as
for fruit.
HORTICULTTRE FOR TouTH. Mr. Wm. Barry
thinks that scholars in our schools should know
as much about fruits and flowers, as about
arithmetic. " It is an accomplishment entirely
disregarded."
The Cumbing Cutworm is often very destruc-
tive in orchards. One object to be accomplished
by planting Buckwheat in orchards, and plow-
ing it under, is to starve out the cutworm which
does not feed on Buckwheat.
The Fohelle Pear is a very tardy but regular
bearer; fruit of line shape, large size, red-cheeked
in the sun; ripening a nice yellow, losing much
of its redness. Quality of the very best. Season
lastof November to January.— D.D.Coitom, Ohio.
CoiXECTios OF Orchids. Messrs. Pitcher and
Manda of Short Hills, X. J., have secured the
entire collection of Orchids of DeWitt S, Smith,
of Lee, Mass., Imown among florists as contain-
ing only the finest varieties, of Cypripedlums.
WoDiiD TOU have a fine lawn ornament? Order
a plant of Zebra Grass, set in a spot of very highly
enriched soil, and presently there will be a six or
seven foot growth of this most graceful and
hardy plant. Take Popular Gardening's ad-
rice and try this.
OuB Crop Kepokt Our customary crop re-
port, to appear in next (July) issue, will be pre-
pared with great care, and is intended to pre-
sent as fair an indication of this season's fruit
crops, according to prospects late in June, as it
is possible to make. Those of our readers in any
part of the Tnited States who desire to assist us
in this undertaking, by making a trustwoi'thy
report about the fruit prospects in their respec-
tive localities, will send us their address on a post
card we will return suitable blanks.
Makixo the Desert Bixjom. The Congres-
sional and Department scheme for making large
western arid plains bloom like the Rose is a most
magnificent one, but the people who will have
to foot the bill of many millions of dollars will
probably not get very enthusiastic over it. The
greed for more land than he can manage proper-
ly has brought many an individual fanner to
grief, and the nation would not fall into the
same error (buying up more land at heavy ex-
pense than they know how to utilize J if it
depended more on the tax-payers and less on
•* far-sighted political jobbers who look beyond
the necessities of the people to the long felt
want for boodle," As one of our contemporaries
truly says, this expenditure, " to a disinterested
person, would seem to be a criminal waste of the
people's substance, in view of the fact that all
over the south and west there are millions of
acres of land, far better, in every respect, un.
used, and likely to so remain until the latest
born is dead of old age."
Zixc IN Evaporated Apples. A sample
of evaporated Apples, analysed by Dr, Peter
Collier, of the New York Experiment Station
was found to contain in every 1,000 pounds
the equivalent of one and one-half pounds of
sulphate of zinc, which is a well-known active
poison. Dr. Collier says it is reasonable to sup-
pose that the continued use of these dried Apples
would lead to very serious consequences. "This
appears like a rebuke to the flippant, careless
manner in which some fruitmen, and even horti-
cultural societies, have tried to pass lightly over
the action recently taken by the Hamburg ( Ger-
many) authorities against American evaporated
Apples. Our people most interested in this ques-
tion have hardly thought it worth while earnest
consideration, assuming the inconvenient pro-
ceeding on the pai^ of our foreign customers to
be merely founded upon spite or unfriendliness,
and have been showing an inclination to drop all
further inquiry. We mention Dr. Collier's dis-
covery to show the urgent need of further and
careful investigation of our pi^sent methods of
evaporating fruits. This should be attended to
without delay, and before another evaporating
season arrives.
What Crops to Grow Among Fruits.
CARL HORTER, JACKSON CO., ULS.
Where land is plenty and cheap, it would
be folly to crowd things, or attempt to have
the vegetable garden and fruit patch all in
one. It is much more convenient to grow
fruits and vegetables in separate patches.
Still there are many modest homes in
Tillages and the suburbs of cities that have
only one-eighth or one-qnarter of an acre of
ground, too much for lawn and flowers
alone, and not enough for a garden and
fruit patch. To be able to enjoy the lusn-
ries of home-grown fruits and vegetables,
a system of close planting must be adopt-
ed in a case like this. We would then
rather do without tree fruits, with the ex-
ception of a row of Cherries, Peaches,
Plums or Pears near the line on the north
and west sides. Grapes, of course, should
not be omitted in any garden, no matter
Expanded Form of Rose.
how small, since they require so little space
compared with the amount of fruit they
yield. There may be a row or two next to
the trees, and at proper distance from them,
trained on stakes or cheap trellis.
The Grape rows are to be seven or eight
feet apart, and the space or spaces betiveen
afford a splendid opportunity for growing
Strawberries, Currants, Gooseberries, or
Tomatoes, Potatoes, Beans, Cabbages, and
similar crops. Where Strawberries occupy
a separate bed, they may be set in rows
three or three and one-half feet apart, and
allowed to form matted rows. Xo other
crop is to be grown between them: but any
bed after fruiting, if not to be preserved for
another season, should at once be spaded,
or plowed over, and planted with Potatoes,
Turnips, Cucumbers, Sweet Com, Celery,
Endive, Spinach, or whatever crop may be
most desirable, and promises to yet come to
maturity. A few Radishes, Lettuces, Beets,
etc., may be sown here and there on little
vacant spots, as a sort of catch crops; and
so may some other vegetables. In fact the
ground of these limited areas should be
Glohular Form of Ro>^e.
kept fully occupied with one or the other of
these crops during the entire season, one
being planted in the place of another as
quick as this latter is gathered and the spot
has become vacant. Even a small piece of
ground thus mananged can furnish a pretty
good supply of vegetables and frtiits for the
occupant's family.
Hints on Hardy Rose Culture.
To have beautiful Roses in your garden,
said a very successful rosarian, you must
have Roses in your heart.
Xo other flower is at once so cheap and
easy of culture, for the satisfaction to be
obtained, and yet is so universally neglected
in the matter of bestowing decent attention.
The Hybrid Perpetual class of hardy Roses
give the best general satisfaction to the
careful cultivator. They are not in reality
perpetual bloomers, but derive their name
from the fact of their being hybrids between
the hardy summer-flowering species and the
perpetual bloomers. Many of them throw
off a few flowers at intervals through the
summer, with a fair second crop in the au-
tumn.
The Moss Roses are favorites on account
of the exquisite buds, fringed with a moss-
like growth. They are more subject to mil-
dew than some others, but this can in large
part be overcome by high culture and close
pruning. The Austrian or Yellow Roses,
the Damask and other summer Roses, and
the Prairie Roses (climbing) are entitled to
be included in every collection of these
flowers, which embrace anything like a fair
assortment.
-Although some Roses may thrive bett'er
In one soil and others in different soUs, the
following selection of Hybrid Perpetuals
has a wide range of adaptability and should
suit the average needs of growers; -\bel
Grand, Anna de Diesbach, Baronne Pre-
vost. Baroness Rothschild, Caroline de San-
sal, Charles Margottin, Francis Michelon
1 86
POPULAR GARDENING.
June,
General Jacqueminot, La Relne, Mabel
Morrison, Maurice Bernardm, John Hopper,
Souv. de Wm. Wood.
As to form of the flowers some ideas are
illustrated herewith, namely: the expanded
or flat form, with the surface of the flower
nearly even; the globular form, with the
outer petals concave and the edges curved
outwards; the cupped form, with the inner
petals shorter than the outer ones, the latter
standing erect and generally somewhat in-
curved; the compact form, which is found
in the large, very durable kinds.
The preparation of the Rose bed Is of the
utmost importance. The soil can scarcely
Cupped Form of Rose.
be too rich, but it must be thoroughly
drained. The best plan is to work over the
soil where Roses are to go, to the depth of
fully two and a half feet, working in some
rotten sods and some farmyard manure to
the very bottom.
Set the plants at from two to three feet
apart. On well-drained soil it is best to
plant Roses about November 1st. Then the
bed should receive a good dressing of farm-
yard manure to keep out the heavy frost,
forking in the manure the following March.
In setting Rose bushes it is very import-
ant that the soil be tightly firmed against
the roots, but take care not to bruise them.
Plant in holes of such a size that the roots
need not be bent out of their natural position.
All plants grown on their own roots, that is
not budded, should be set
fully as deep as they stood
in the nursery row, while
budded varieties (such as
have the improved variety
budded in the free growing
wild Manettia or Briar
Rose) should go down so
deep that the junction of
the bud with the stock is
two or three inches below
the surface.
Pruning the bushes is a
part of Rose culture in
which many growers make
their greatest mistake. We
refer especially to the
annual pruning, which is
best done in March or early
April. All kinds must be
pruned when planted.
In the case of Hybrid
Perpetuals, a proverb of
" spare the knife and
spoil the bush," is de-
cidedly apt, as the best
Moss Roses should also receive close prun-
ing along with high tillage. Yellow and
Climbing Roses require no other pruning
than to cut out all weak growth, and in the
former to shorten the flowering shoots a
few inches annually.
In all cases of pruning the shoots should
be cut down to a prominent bud turned out-
wards, thus to admit sun and air into the
middle of the plant, which is very important
in the production of flue flowers.
As the blooming season approaches pro-
vision should be made to prevent the plants
from suffering from lack of water and fertil-
ity as the blooms will be decidedly in.jured by
dryness at the root. Liquid manure should
be applied twice or three times a week,
therefore from the time the buds begin to
swell until the season of bloom is past, doing
this work just before night-fall.
Insects are the dread of the Rose grower.
Let it be borne in mind that it is the under-
fed and otherwise neglected plants that in-
vite the largest numbers of pests. Preven-
tion in the way of a thoroughly prepared
and cleanly tilled soil, fertility, watering,
pruning, etc., should therefore be the flrst
resort against their attacks, and thus nearly
all trouble will be cut off.
Still one should be on their guard, and
destroy whatever insects may appear. To
keep off the aphis or green fly place some
moist Tobacco stems under the bushes. A
caterpillar that appears soon after the
growth begins in the spring, and the pres-
ence of which may be detected by its glueing
a leaf or two together to form a shelter,
should be pinched between finger and thumb
in his leafy home. For the slug and hopper,
which devour the leaves, a si)rinkling of
white hellebore over the plants just after
thoroughly wetting the foliage, will usually
be sufficient. The minute red spider that
works on the under side of the leaves, may
be kept down by syringing the plants liber-
ally every day. Plants that are standing
out where the air circulates freely are less
liiible to attacks from this insect than those
of rotted turf and manure, and which should
be composted for the purpose. This should
be spread over the bed to the depth of sev-
eral inches every autumn, and some may
occasionally be added to the beds during
the summer. When the beds get too
full remove some by taking away with a
spade " pockets " of the older earth between
the plants, into which to work some of the
fertile top earth.
All garden Roses are better off for light
protection in the winter. A coat of compost
Compact Form of Rose.
as recommended above, will afford all the
shelter needed for the roots. But it is the
branches that suffer most in the winter,
hence it is well to wrap them in straw at the
approach of severe weather, or else bend
them over and cover with straw, evergreen
branches or even soil.
John Hopper Rose trained on wire fence; re-engraved from the Garden.
results cannot
be obtained unless the knife is freely used
in the spring. The operation of pruning is
a most simple one. Cut away all weakly
growth, and cutting back the strong stems
to five or seven eyes, keeping this in mind,
that the weaker the growth the more closely
it should be cut back. Another consideration
is the size and the number of the flowers
desired, the closer the cutting, hence the
less buds remaining, the larger will be the
flowers; if quantity is the object then more
buds should be left. Some kinds of Hybrid
Perpetuals should be pruned after their flrst
crop of flowers to induce the driving of
flowering wood for autumn.
crowded against buildings or into the cor-
ners of the garden. The Rose bug must be
hand picked or knocked into a pan of water.
The best remedy for mildew on Roses is to
dust the plants with powdered sulphur, first
wetting the foliage so it will stick.
Choice Roses should by all means receive
clean culture. The surface of the bed must
must never be allowed to become grassy,
or to bake or otherwise get hard. Every
week or two during the growing season, or
after every rain, the ground should be
stirred with hoe and rake, and not a sign of
weeds or grass be allowed.
The best fertilizer for Roses, aside from
liquid manure referred to, is one consisting
Notes from the Popular Gardening'
Grounds at La Salle-on-the-
Niagara.
A Lawn FI/Oat. In making the various lawns
for our grass tests this season and last we have
found a float, as shown in the accompanying en-
graving, of the utmost value in evening up the
surface of the ground preparatory to seeding. It
is a simple home-made contrivance, consisting of
two.3 .v4inch Hemlock scantlings eight feet long,
set the broadest wa.v up and down, about three
and a half feet apart, with four boards a foot
wide nailed from one to the
other, as shown in the figure.
Drawn by a team of horses
and weighted somewhat, this
float has a wonderful effect
in evening up the surface by
passing over the plat. But its
value is even more apparent
in smoothing down the slight
inequalities to be found in
every piece of plowed land, if
the driver will step on the float
when a hump is reached, in
which case the scantUng takes
off and draws along a lot of
the soil, and by passing to a
depression near by, where by
stepping off, the soil is re-
leased. Of course if there are
larger humps or depressions
the shovel scrai>er is the tool
flrst required.
This Sprinq's Lawm Seed-
ing. Between April 24th and
May 12th, soil of about three-
quarters of an acre of our
grounds was put in condition
for seeding, and the follow-
ing kinds of grass sown for lawn tests:
Creeping Bent Grass. English Rye.
Rliode Island Bent Grass. Canadian Blue.
Meadow Fescue. Crested Dog Tail.
Italian Rye. Red Top.
Siieeps Fescue. Kentucliy Blue.
Six brands of " best mixtures " from as many lead-
ing seedsmen.
These experiment lawn plats, with the seven
of last year's sowing referred to a month ago,
should enable us soon to present our readers
some very definite and valuable information
on the subject of lawn seeding.
Evergreens at " Woodbanks." Strongly as
we favor the free planting of ornamental hardy
shrubs about the home, as referred to last month,
we yet feel that the liberal planting of Ever-
greens is entitled to even greater attention.
Evergreens show forth their full beauty through-
1890
POPULAR GARDENING.
187
out tlu- twi'lve months, while shrubs are in their
best iii»iH'aranee lor k^ss than lialf that time.
Tlien also Kverjfreens. if i)roperl>' loeat<'(i to the
windwart! t)f the home and ^'anlun. have mar-
veUiUs powerfortakingrtlie sting out of the bleak
winds of winter. Tlie distinct ornamental ehar-
acter of Kverirreens would seem alsi^ to Vie of a
hijrher order than that of any other kind of
woody {growth: the five use of these about the
h(mie. or in any plaee, imparts an air of refine-
ment, lieauty and
eomforl not other-
wise obtainable.
IIa\'in^ had these
ideiu* in mind when
the rupri.AH (iAH-
DENINO (irouuds weiv
arranged, it tiKik but
little time to decide on
usinjr Evergreens
lilx^^ally for adorninjr
the plaee. Not onl.v
should the number
used be ample, but
they also should
represent so lar^*' .i
variety, and hr
tastefully arrange'! 11^
to show the beauty
as well as the low cost
of this class of trees
to their utmost. A beginning was therefore
made by locating several large groups of Ever-
greens, besides some scattered trees, on the ample
lawn to the northward of the writer's dwelling.
This Evergreen section is in part shown by the
accompanying engraving The residence is
across the road or driveway shown in the lower
left-hand corner of the cut. While at present the
larger part of the young trees occupy a place in
cultivated borders cut into the sward in order to
foster a rapid growth while young, yet it is the
intention in time to allow the grass to grow up
and under the trees.
As with the shrulis referred to last month, the
key to the arrangement of these Evergreens is
the group or mass, a matter tetter understood
by the use of our engraving. In this illustration
the figures indicate the respective trees and
groups as follows:
1. Siberian Arbor Vitoe.
2-3. Norway Spruce.
4. Geo. Peabody Dwarf Arl»or Vltae.
5. Siberian Arbor Vitaj.
6. Dwarf Black Spruce.
T. Balsam Fir.
8. Cedars.
9. Creeping Junipers.
10. Hemlock, Abies Canadensis.
11. Firs In Variety.
12. Dwarf Spruces.
13. Pine and Weeping Hemlock .
14. Maxwell's Dwarf Spruce.
15. Maxwell's Dwarf Spruce.
16. Alcock's Blue Spruce,
n. Conical Spruces.
18. White Spruce.
19. Junipers, etc.
20. Scotch Pine.
21. White Pine.
22. Mountain Pine.
23. Globe Arbor YiUe.
24. Irish Junipers.
25. Sabine Junipers.
Thus is brought together within a length of
several hundred feet a large and interesting col-
lection of the more easily grown Evergreens
suited to the north. This list, which does not
even embrace all the hardy kinds now grown in
our grounds, should yet possess value to our
readers in assisting them in selecting such Ever-
greens as it is safe to plant in the colder latitudes
of our country. Pleasure is taken in present-
ing a list so large, because of the prevailing
notion that only a very few kinds outside of the
Norway Spruce are reliable at the north.
The diversity of form, habit, foliage, color and
shades, afforded by this collection, it is easy for
the reader to imagine, is most charmingly varied.
As from five to twenty trees of a kind are for
the most part used— enough to set forth the in-
dividuality of each very markedly, the effect in
harmonies and contrasts, is even now, twelve
months from planting very pleasing, and will be
more so year by year.
Something should be said of the ease and inex-
pensiveness of setting out masses of Evergreens,
With the exception of a tew comparatively rare
and high-priced kinds, and which could easily be
dispensed with, so far as general effect goes,
the stock was mainly procured from that Ever-
green specialist David Hill, Dundee, Illinois. The
plants averaged in height from IS to ^ inches.
and the cost inside of $2.."i0 per dozen. Such
plants arrived from the nursery in excellent
condition, and many of them grew a foot in
length tile Hist year. They were planted from
two to three times closer thiui their ultimate
distances apart, with a view to lifting and trans-
planting elsewhere a portion of them as more
space is needed.
The Early Uadishes. We have always en -
be easily hurt by subsequent cold weather. The
ground also needs airing, loosening and quicken-
ing. .-\t the approach of the fruiting season a
fresh clean mulch is to be again applied next to
the T>lants. and will help to keep the fruit clean
and the groimd moist. Weedy manure is always
a curse in the Strawbery field, and may even en-
tirely ruin the usefulness of the patch. Only by
considerable and persistent effort has it been pos-
EVERGREENS IN MASSES AS PLANTED ON THE POPULAR GARDENINQ EXPERIMENT GROUNDS.
tertained considerable respect and admiration I sible to save a strip of ground through one of the
sections which had re-
ceived a dressing of
weedy manure previ-
ous to being planted
only last autumn,
from being entirely
overrun beyond re-
demption by foul
weeds and grasses.
A little more care in
the selection of
manure would have
resulted in quite a
saving of labor.
The Bush Fruits.
Our multitudinous
varieties of Black-
berries, Kaspberi-ies,
Currants and (ioose-
berries look well at
this writing, and will
give us an opportunity to judge of their com-
parative merits for this soil and section when the
fruiting season arrives.
A Living Insect Trap. Not a single creeping,
crawling or hopping thing is to be seen in our
Tomato hotbed of four sashes, except one toad,
which in reality is nothing else than a wandering
(hf)pping) insect trap, and gobbles up every hap-
les? small creature that gets into it. Of course
we make a pet of our living insecticide, and have
almost learned to admire its handsome color,
and its intelligent eye. Sometimes we give it an
especially dainty morsel, such as a large May
beetle, or even a Potato beetle, a centipede, etc.
Our guest takes them all with equal gratitude
and appetite. There can be no doubt that toads
may be colonized and put to good use in Cucum-
ber, Melon and Squash patches. At any rate we in-
tend to assign to them the duty and responsibility
of keeping the vines free from bugs this year, and
believe that it will be safer to trust to their watch-
fulnessthan to depend on poisonous applications.
The Season. Rain, rain, rain, with only short
intervals of a sort of of "alt and 'alt weather,
more or less cloudy and little clear sky— that is
the record of the season up to this writing. The
ground has been soaking pretty much all the
time, and planting, consequently, has progressed
somewhat slowly. This is especially the case
with the vegetable department. We do not be-
lieve in sowing seed, or setting plants, unless the
ground is in proper condition for the work. At
the same time, we do not worry. Everything
will come out all right in the end.
This, also, is a season where all the great advan-
tages of thorough drainage are making them-
for the early or forcing Radishes, not alone be-
cause almost ever.vbody likes them, but because
they are grown both in frame and open ground
with less trouble, and become fit for use in less
time than any other crop. Our this season's ex-
perience with a number of the new earliest forc-
ing Itadishes, sown in frame March 31st, only
confirmed the conclusion previously arrived at,
that a further noteworthy improvement of these
Radishes, so far as earliness is concerned, can
hardly be hoped for, and that it is hardly espec-
ially needed. When Radishes can Ik- grown for
the table in from 16 to 2.5 days from the time of
sowing, we have achieved pretty much all that
can be done. Our critical comparison was made
and notes taken on April 2oth, or i5 days after
sowing the seed.
Some of the new sorts have again been sent out
under the claim of being earlier than any of the
older sorts. We find that the older Early Erfurt
is yet as early as any sort now offered by seeds-
men. The new Dark Red Ball, and Earliest
Scarlet Forcing are of the Erfurt type, and do not
differ in earliness from the older variety. The
White-tipped Scarlet Ball differs from the others
slightly in color, and has the eharacteristie white
tail-end. Otherwise we think they are all nearly
of equal value as forcing Radishes for both home
use and market.
"The Dark Red Ball is simply perfection in form,
truly round as a ball, and of bright red color.
Rapid Forcing and White-tipped Scarlet resemble
each other very closely.
El Dorado and Early Yellow Ball, which closely
resemble each other, have pleased us very much,
although a trifle later than the red sorts
mentioned. They are round,
somewhat russet, handsome ^tlTiT""*"^'
and tender. The market value
depends on the fancy of the
market for color. Some
markets have developed quite
a partiality for the tender
Yellow Radishes.
Strawberries. Our Straw-
berry beds come out in better
shape than we had expected
some weeks ago, when the
effects of the constant changes
from cold to warm and warm
to cold could be seen in the
large number of plants that
were heaved right out of the
ground. Thickly matted rows
suffered little injury. Of the
Crawford, Crimson Cluster, Cohanzick, Captain
Jack, Covell, and a few others, almost every
plant succumbed. Haverland, Ivanhoe, Jessie,
Warfleld, Wilson, Bubach— all make a fine show-
ing at this time (middle of May).
The mulch iswale hay) had been entirely re-
moved from all the beds in April, and the ground
between the rows given a thorough loosening by
means of the cultivator as soon as it was in good
working order, early in May. This treatment is
far preferable to leaving the mulch on the bed
until the fruiting season, as so often practised.
If plants are forced through any covering, they
are apt to come up blanched and tender, and to
A LAND-LEVELLING FLOAT. Sec next page.
selves plainly visible. The undrained lands here
abouts are turned into swamps, with water
standing on the su rf ace in every depression . The
drains put in on the Popular Gardening
grounds take care very nicely of all this excess
of moisture, and leave the surface in good shape
for work in a little while after it has stopped to
rain. The difference in this respect between this
and former seasons is most striking.
The Fruit Outlook. This continues to be
the most flattering. Almost ever.v tree and bush
is loaded with sound blossoms or buds. The fruit
crop in this section, barring accidents, will be a
most bountiful one.
i88
POPULAR GARDENING.
June,
Summer Pruning the Vine.
D. S. MARWIN. JEFFERSON CO., N, Y.
There is a right and a wrong way of doing
the work. It is mainly a matter of con-
ditions, or objects to be obtained. Let us
look into the nature of the plant, and let
the vine answer the question for itself.
A vine is in the nature of a community,
each bud an individual, with another em-
bryo vine wrapped within its water-proof
covering. Every bud may be severed and
made to grow into a new vine, or if left to
remain upon the present plant, may be
utilized by the vine to produce foliage. But
there is a further, and the most potent
energy of all, in a part of the buds : the
power of producing fruit containing seeds
with germs of new and distinct plants,
sometimes very unlike the parent vine.
In pruning the vine what do we desire to
accomplish? In the case of a young plant
during the tlrst season's growth we want
alone a growth and development of wood.
No system of repression or turning the vine's
forces to other objects is admissible ; so we
stimulate and leave all the foliage intact
the first year.
The second year we have in view bearing
wood and the development of good-sized
canes with large fruit buds ; so we prune in
the fall with reference to the double arm,
the Kniffin, the fan, or whatever system we
intend to adopt and we have no more wood
than is needed, so as to avoid all the sum-
mer pruning we can, for no matter how we
manage under all conditions, much sum-
mer pruning is to be avoided, so as not to
disturb the vine's vital economies too harsh-
ly. But certainly in the case of all strong-
growing plants, summer pruning is neces-
sary, for vre cannot otherwise turn the
energies of the vine into fruit bearing,
because it we do not summer prune to a cer-
tain degree, the forces of the vine are
wasted upon useless wood and foliage.
The first and most important summer
pruning to be done, is to break out theyoung
canes upon all the lower parts of the vine
that we do not need for future u.se, or for
fruit bearing; this concentrates the growth
into the bearing canes for the development
of fruit, and the canes for next year's fruit-
ing. If the vine is weakly or only a
moderate grower, this is usually all the
summer pruning desirable, e.xcept when
the double buds push two canes, when but
one is needed, the best cane is chosen, the
other broken out. In case one cane or
several canes are appropriating more than
their due share of sap, the ends should be
pinched, usually two or three inches be-
yond the last cluster of Grapes, but it extra
clusters are desired, the cane may be clipped
at the third, or even the .second cluster of
fruit, as soon as the little clusters can be
seen, but this should not be generally
practiced ; it does not leave foliage enough
for a healthy growth, and under nearly all
circumstances the laterals or little side
canes growing from the current year's
canes, may be pinched at the first node,
leaving but one leaf.
Now we have arrived at the point where
there is much diversity of opinion. Shall we
cut oft the canes of strong-growing vigorous
vines during the summer? I do not approve
of cutting and slashing, but I do practice
and recommend pinching off the laterals
at one leaf, and the canes at about the third
node beyond the last cluster of Grapes. I
can keep my vines healthy, and I get larger
berries, and better clusters of fruit by so
doing, and I find that the more thoroughly
this is done, the vines respond by ripening
the fruit a week or two in advance of vines
not so pruned. I always have my fruit ripe
and in market before my neighbors. I am
sure the fruit is better developed, better
flavored, and a good many days earlier.
Another point gained is also very impor-
tant, that is the production of more pollen
and more potent pollen, to fertilize the
ovules in June. Here is the weak point in
most of our species of native Grapes; there
is not potent pollen enough produced by a
slack system of summer pruning to properly
fertilize the ovules.
It will now be seen, that no more buds
should be allowed to grow upon a vine than
are needed, every extrabud when not needed
calls away the forces of the plant and pre-
vents fruit production. We can see also
that fruit as germ production is a higher
function, than bud production. All vines
in a state of nature are slowly shifting this
function from the old bisexual to slngle-
se.xed plants. The vinedresser will have to
take this tendency into consideration and
counteract it, by giving his bi-sexual plants
better conditions for pollen production.
Again the skilled vinter must know and
take into consideration the species of the
vine he is cultivating, for the different
species grow with different habits and ten-
dencies, the most of our native species and
their hybrids are of recent origin, compara-
tively wild, and will not submit to the close
pruning and manipulation of the larger
cultivated European species. Of course the
ultimate object is fruit, and the highly de-
veloped cultivated fruit is the last and
supreme object to man.
The vine in a wild state multiplies eyes
and wood to a much greater extent, and
when our vines are diseased, or making but
a .slender growth, we should not prune the
wood, but the fruit, and throw the forces of
tlic vine into bud and wood development.
Strawberries: A Word for the Jewell.
S. H. WARREN, Mn)DLE.SEX CO.. MASS.
The plants prefer new ground which has
never before been plowed or made to pro-
duce our common field crops. I believe
such land has in it a food for Strawberries
which man cannot furnish by the use of
stable manure or fertilizei-s. If such new
land has white grubs in it, it should be cul-
tivated for two years previous to the plants
being set, or fenced in, for a hog yard.
New land is also usually freer from weeds
than old land, and I know of no crop so dis-
couraging to cultivate in a weedy soil than
Strawberries. My Strawberry land is a
piece of low, deep, black soil, formerly wet
and soft, which I had tile-drained and
sanded. Part of this had produced only
one crop (Potatoes) before being set to
Strawberries, the other had been cropped
several years. The whole was planted with
.lessie and .lewell, one row of the former
alternating with three of the latter, and
the rows extending through both the old
and the new land. .Jessie made plants
enough at either end, but .Jewell had few
on the old ground, and a plentiful supply
on the new. There were really too many
plants for the best results m fruit, but they
came handy as I sell plants.
With me (and I have 3.5 years' experience)
the .lewell is the most profitable. It has the
four great requisites, beauty, size, quality,
and quantity. At first I stimulated the
plants every way to induce them to make
runners, but without avail. I got about
three runners to every parent plant, not-
withstanding heavy applications of manure,
and phosphates. 1 believe a great mistake
is made in setting out large stocky plants of
the .Jewell variety instead of small ones.
The former are more inclined to bear fruit
than to produce plants. It is also my ex-
perience that .Jewell requires more moisture
to grow plants than other varieties. Last
year the .Jewells on high ground made a
good growth of plants because we had so
much rain, while the year before they made
very few on the same land, it being dry.
The great reason why this variety has.
been discarded, is that people have not been
able to raise their own plants, and their mar-
ket value is high. But if small ones are
chosen and set in new, moist land, there
will be no trouble in raising both the plants
and fruit of this most profitable variety.
Celery Culture in Maine.
J. A. UARETT, CUMBERLAND CO., ME.
Our method is as follows : We prepare
our hot-bed about the last of March or first
of April, putting three or four inches of
steaming hot manure under a little more
than that depth of rich fine soil covering
with sashes and allowing it to heat a little
for the next twenty-four hours. The sashes
are then taken off and the soil thoroughly
stirred. It is then smoothed and pressed
down firmly with a short piece of board.
The seed is then sown quite thickly on this
surface, and a very thin covering of rich
loam sifted over it, which in turn is pressed
down firmly.
Now a covering of thin cloth is laid over
it thus preventing the seed washing out in
watering. When the plants make their
appearance, this cloth is taken off, and the
outside of the sash daubed with whitewash
or mud. The sashes are allowed to remain
a little longer, airing freely while the sun is
shining on them. Great care is exercised at
this point in their growth as they will die if
kept too dry, and if kept too wet they will
damp off. When the plants are about an
inch in height they are transplanted into a
bed that has been used in growing Lettuce
or Radishes. About :i50 plants are allowed
for the space occupied by one sash. The
sash are removed, and the plants kept
shaded from ten to three for a few days.
All that is necessary is to keep them wet
from this time until the 15th to 'Jllth of .June.
They are then set out in ground that has
been heavily manured and fined, in rows
six feet apart and one foot apart in the row.
Until the middle of August we cultivate
between the rows, and keep the plants clean
by hoeing occasionally. After this time we
bank up what is needed for the local mar-
ket. After the first of October we begin to
bank up what is to be housed for winter.
We begin taking it into the house the 25th
of the month.
Most of the writers on Celery neglect to
speak about the importance of keeping out
of the Celery while the dew is on. If
handled in this condition it is liable to rust.
Manures for Garden Crops.
The question whether plants draw nitro-
gen from the air, and how much of it, is
often brought up for discussion; but after
all, it has very little practical bearing, ex-
cept in case of leguminous plants.
Otherwise the gardener and fruit grower
will do well to make little reckoning on the
nitrogen needed for his crops, from that
source. Peas and Beans, like Clover" and
other members of that family, do well so
long as they find plenty of mineral food in
the soil, as they get their nitrogen supply
from air, and subsoil. The only safe depen-
dance for nitrogen with other garden crops,
however, is yet the manure heap in the barn-
yard, or the nitrogen bought in complete
manufactured manures, or in nitrates, or
ammonia salts.
It is entirely fallacious, says Tick's Maga-
zine, to suppose that garden crops, whether
flowers, fruit, or vegetables, gain a large
amount of nitrogenous plant-food from
atmospheric sources by means of this ex-
tended leaf-surface. The quantity of com-
bined nitrogen brought to the soil and grow-
ing plants by rain-water and the atmos-
phere is so inconsiderable an amount, when
compared with the weight required by the
crop, that we may fairly say that no plants
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
189
are more dependent on nitrogen in an avail-
able condition within the soil than are
garden vegetables. No matter how good
the normal condition of the soil may be, it
will not produce paying crops of vegetables,
or even fruits, without manure. Certain it
is that if a garden will not pay with liberal
manuring, it will not pay without it.
The Insect Powder Industry In
California.
The insect powder put on the market
under the trade name "' buhach " is so far
superior to the common " Persian" or "Dal-
mation " powders, kept by druggists and
seedsmen, that progressive gardeners should
cease to buy and use the unreliable ordin-
ary insect powders and put their trust alto-
gether in " buhach " especially as the latter
is an American product. We only regret
that it is as yet manufactured only in limit-
ed quantity, and not sufficient that it could
be placed on sale generally in all drugstores.
But it seems to us that seedsmen should
keep it in stock, recommend it to their
customers, and urge it upon them. It is
infallible for Cabbage (and many other)
worms, also for lice on hens and chickens.
The only parties now engaged in the
buhach industry are the Buhach Producing
and Manufacturing Co., of Stockton, Cali-
fornia. The Stockton Daily Mail in a recent
issue gives a pretty full account of this in-
teresting industry, from which the follow-
ing is an extract :— Buhach is a fine powder
made from the blossoms of the plant Pyrc-
thruin cincrdrUrfdlium. Insect powder
made from the Dalmatian plant was first
put upon the European markets about thirty
years ago, and it has been found in the
leading markets of the world ever since.
The plant was introduced into California
by a former Dalmatian, one G. N. Milco,
who procured some of the seed from his
native country. A large tract of land was
planted and cultivated near Atwater, Mer-
ced County. From the blossoms of the
plant grown at Atwater, buhach is manu-
factured in Stockton by the company which
now has more than 300 acres under cultiva-
tion: an acreage which is increased as the
demand increases.
Its cultivation requires careful and intel-
ligent supervision, and it cannot be success-
fully grown except by irrigation. It re-
quires at least three years from the seed to
grow plants capable of producing a paying
crop of flowers, and then the plant will con-
tinue to produce.for four or five years longer
although it is in its prime and most produc-
tive when four or five years old. It grows
to a height of about thirty inches, and is
planted in rows four feet apart and from
fifteen to twenty-four inches apart in the
row. The flowers are generally harvested
in the latter part of May. The stalks are
cut at the roots of the plant, and then by
hand the flowers are broken oft by passing
the stems through a sort of comb, which
detaches the flowers, which fall into a box
and are then carried to the drying ground,
where they are spread upon sheets and ex-
posed to the rays of the sun during the day,
being often turned in the meantime, and at
night are covered to prevent them from
absorbing any moisture. The perfect drying
of the flowers is a most important operation,
as in order to retain the volatile oil which
gives to the powder its insecticide properties,
It is very necessary that the flower should be
dried quickly and thoroughly, and be pro-
tected during the process from all moisture.
A light dew falling upon the flowers during
drying process will color them and reduce
their insecticide properties. In this respect
the California-grown flowers are better
cured and consequently more valuable than
those grown in Dalmatia.
It is also a fact well-known to those
familiar with the Pyrethrum flowers that
they are liable to be adulterated by the ad-
mixture of flowers of no value, which,
however, closely resemble the Pyrethrum^
and experts may be deceived unless the
powder manufactured from the combination
is thoroughly tested to prove its strength.
Powders are sometimes manufactured
from the whole plant, including the stems,
leaves and flowers, which possess, to a cer-
tain extent, the insecticide properties of
buhach, and are xindoubtedly far superior
in strength to many of the insect powders
that are found upon the market ; yet as the
blossoms of the Pyrethrum plant are richer
in the essential oil which gives the peculiar
insecticide properties of the plant, powder
manufactured solely therefrom is the strong-
est and best that can be made.
For years after the company first began
to introduce buhach, its sale was a very slow
one, but finally the merits of the article
were fully and generally recognized, and
for some years now the demand has been so
great that its supply has required the full
facilities of the producing concern.
Bogus Commission Merchants.
How to secure honest service, and especi-
ally honest returns on the part of our com-
mission men in the cities, is a serious ques-
tion which has become a leading topic of
the discussions at farmers' and fruit grow-
ers' meetings. Sec'y E. Williams of New
.Jersey, at the last meeting of the New
Jersey Horticultural Society remarked that
the surest way of making fruit growing
pay, is, making commission dealers honest.
This is not very flattering to the fraternity
even of genuine commission men, and yet
every spring springs up a crop of bogus
commission merchants, compared with
which the dealer who retains only an ille-
gitimate ten or fifteen per cent of the sales
made, must appear innocent as an angel
fresh from heaven.
In a letter written some time since by one
of the victims to the New York Fruit Trade
.Tournal, the following description of the
modus iipcrnndl of the bogus dealers is
given : " I know of several instances where
New York and Philadelphia houses have
given prompt returns early in the season,
but after large consignments and gaining a
large number of customers, prices would
suddenly take a tumble and reports became
slow and unsatisfactory. In some cases
the money would be held back until the end
of the season, when the commission mer-
chant would fail and his agent would later
down come with a pitiful tale of bad luck,
and secure a settlement at 3.') per cent."
The Journal addressed comments on this
as follows : " There are two classes of com-
mission merchants who are responsible for
this hardship : first the sharper, who de-
liberately plans to swindle the farmer.
Early in Berry, Peach or Apple season he
sends out sensational circulars and often
false quotations, and makes returns for his
first few shipments, of prices much higher
than the fruit brought, supplying the de-
ficiency from his own pocket. Of course
the news of his successful sales is spread
among the friends of the happy grower,
who drop the established houses they have
shipped to for years, and consign to the new
merchant. The sequel is short and disas-
trous, the consignee often disappearing
without taking the trouble to make a per-
cent settlement with the shipper. These
fellows often turn up the next season under
different names. The second are inex-
perienced men from among shippers them-
selves, who thinking they can control large
shipments from their own locality and not
counting the expense of conducting a com-
mission house, open a place and solicit
consignments from their friends. Their
business is not as good as they anticipated,
they are often unable to get as good prices
as old houses who have their regular cus-
tomers, expenses are heavy and their small
capital is .soon exhausted. They become
involved and though they strive to pull
through, the crisis comes, and before the
season is over the unfortunate commission
merchant is compelled to suspend."
The moral is plain. A prudent shipper
will not swallow the bait held out by these
" new houses with superior facilities," but
stick to his old-established firm or firms as
long as they treat him with apparent fair-
ness. At the same time there is no safety
in trusting any of them too implicitly. A
little supervision and control will never be
out of place. It is a good plan for the ship-
per to make an occasional trip to the city,
and visit the commissiou store where he has
shipped his produce, to inquire the prices at
which the goods are selling ; or it he is per-
sonally known to the merchant, to send one
of his friends on the same errand.
This may look somewhat like detective
work, and perhaps be distasteful to the
shipper. Yet while the evil is so great, and
the distrust in commission men so general,
the shipper can be sure of his ground only
by adopting such a course like this ; and if
the merchant is honest (and there are such),
it will be only to his own advantage if the
shipper gets an opportunity to convince
himself of this fact.
The Merits of Wood Ashes.
In an essay read before the American
Horticultural Society at the Cleveland, Ohio,
meeting a few years ago, Mr. .1. M. Smith
gave an account of the means employed
for the prevention of the evil effects of a
prolonged drought. Among these means
a free use of wood ashes were named as one
of the simplest and most effective.
Recently Mr. Smith has made a compara-
tive test of the effects of wood ashes and
barn yard manure on a scale large enough
to show results that are more than an " in-
dication." Two acres lying side by side
were treated exactly alike in every respect
except that one was manured with unleach-
ed wood ashes, and the other with stable
mauure. Mr. Smith reports the results of
the trial to the Prairie farmer as follows :
The acre fertilized with ashes yielded .'il
bushels the most, and if there was any
dift'erence in quality it was in favor of those
that had the ashes. Now. the fair inference
would be that the ashes were much the best
manure for Potatoes. Let us look a little
further: The last half of May and the first
halt of June were wet and cold, and so far
the two acres seemed to keep just about
even. After .June 15th the weather became
very dry, and there was little rain upon the
plants until they were ripe. Very soon
after the ground began to get dry it could be
plainly seen that those manured from the
compost-heap were suft'eriug from want of
rain, while those manured with ashes were
growing very rapidly. This continued until
they were ripe.
The simple fact is. Potatoes or Straw-
berries maniu-ed with ashes stand drouth
that would be ruinotis to crops fertilized
with any manure I have ever tried. To this
fact I attribute the failure of the compost-
heap acre to hold its own with the acre upon
which ashes were used. I have tried the
experiment many times, always with pre-
cisely the same result, provided we had a
dry season during the growth of the crop.
I do not know but the rule will hold good
with all farm and garden crops, but with
the above named there is no doubt. I do not
underrate ashes as manure. I have used
them in preference to any fertilizer I could
get for Potatoes, many years.
IQO
POPULAR GARDENING.
June,
Kohl RabI Little Grown but Worthy.
It is hard to understand why this veget-
able, which is so easily grown, and has no
forminable insect enemy, while being highly
prized for culinary purposes in Europe,
remains so long a stranger in the majority
of American'gardens. It is not a difference
in taste, for Americans when a dish of the
weirprei)ared vegetable is put'before them,
take to it at once, and appreciate its tender-
ness, and flavor. j
in that county (Monmouth) so noted for big
small fruits.
The plants on which this monstrous berry
was borne, were set the year before, and
had made but a small number of runners.
The soil was only moderately fertile, hav-
ing half-shade in the afternoon (from an
Ajjple orchard along side the patch.)
The land had received a dressing of some
high-grade special Potato manure at the
rate of about 800 lbs. per acre before plow
The leaves of Kohl Rabi somewhat re- j ing and another at same rate after plowing;
semble Cabbage leaves, and grow out of th e ' no stable manure being used. The soil was
center of an enlarged stem or bulb,
above ground. In texture this en-
largement resembles a Turnip. The
Early Vienna is the varietybest known,
and usually offered by seed dealers.
We prefer it to the larger and later Im-
perial. Purple Vienna only differs from
Early White V'ienna in outside color.
The flesh of all varieties, says W. H.
Bull, in Garden and Forest, who has
grown Kohl Rabi extensively for
market, is nearly white, and when not
overgrown very tender. When old, the
fibre of the root extend upwards, first
on the otitside and then through the
heart of the vegetable ; a thick rind
taken off at first will remove all the
fibre, but when the root is filled it is
useless.
The best practice is to plant seed in
succession tor use, because after the
bulb has begun to form, the period in
which it is edible is comparatively
short. It is very easy to grow, and
is less affected by the attacks of the
Cabbage-worm than any other
members of the Cabbage family.
ture falls threateningly low. There were
neither mats nor shutters.
The accompanying illustration taken from
American Florist, shows the manner in
which Mr. (ieo. Klehm, of Illinois, has ar-
ranged his hot beds for heating by 4-inch
hot-water pipes. "The bed is built up
against the sides and ends of the green-
houses, the outer wall being of brick as
shown. From the wall a 12-incli plank ex-
tends out over the hot water pipe, the inner
edge Ijeing supported by i;x+ uprights
(shown by dotted lines) placed at intervals.
The sash laps about four inches on
the plank. With this arrangement the
heat from the pipe diffuses evenly over
the bed without the liability of injur-
ing any plant through too close contact
with the pipe, and permits all of the
space covered by glass to be utilized."
The
seeds for first crop should be planted about
the first week in March and treated in all
respects like Cabbage, setting the plants in
the open ground as soon as Cabbages can be
set. The growth in rich land will be rapid,
and a second planting a month later will
make a succession. For fall use, sow in
open ground early in .July. My practice is
to transplant, but this is not necessary, as
the plants can be thinned where they grow
to about six inches apart, having the rows
two feet apart. They bear transplanting
and extremes of heat and cold or drought
well. In fall the unused plants are taken
up, and, after the leaves are cut oft', are set
with the rout in earth in a cellar, where
they will keep well into the spring months,
Und be as good as when harvested.
To prepare for the table a common method
is to pare, cut in cubes of about an inch
A BUBACH STRAWBERRY SHOWN IN ACTUAL SIZE.
of the sandy loam with porous sub-soil
which is so widely found in the eastern
part of the state.
PINCERS FOR HANDLING BUGS.
.square, boil till tender, and then serve with
drawn l)utter.
A Large Bubach Strawberry.
That the large specimens of Strawberries,
as so often pictured in the catalogues, can
be produced under special management,
and especially favorable conditions, is true;
but it is not often in the life-time of the
average grower that he can succeed in
showing such a monster as we here illus-
trate in natural size. The original was the
largest specimen of Strawberry ever grown
by the writer, then in New .Jersey, and his
neighbors assured him that it was by far
the largest they had ever seen grown even
Handling Bugs With Pincers.
L. D. ELDER, LIVINGSTONE CO., N. Y.
For several seasons I have noticed in our
Quince orchard bugs resembling the large
gray Squash bug, in color, but being round-
er and flatter in shape, and having the
nauseous odor of the "stink bug." They
infest the trunks and large branches of the
Quince trees during the summer and fall.
Where they harbor, the bark becomes dis-
colored, and during the fall willcrack open,
and the branch or tree, as the case may be,
dies during the winter.
I have picked them off with my "bug
pincers" on bright days when they come out
on the south side of the tree to sun them-
selves, and think J have saved some trees
by that means.
The same or a similar bug I noticed at
work on the Apple trees, at the same time.
The "pincers" mentioned above, I find
very useful in many ways. They work on
the principle of a pair of sheep-shears, are
about eight inches long, and were made by
a local blacksmith at a cost of 25 cts., and
are a fine thing for handpicking many kinds
of insects.
New Ways of Heating Frames.
In an essay read before the Massachusetts
Horticultural Society, an extract of which
was given in the May issue of PoptrLAU
(jAliDENiNo. Mr. Philbrick tells how he
takes the chill off his cold frames by means
of a line or two of hot water or steam pipes,
and thus numagcs to get ahead of his com-
petitors who frequently have difficulty to
keep the frost out of their unheated cold
frames planted with Spinach and Dande-
lions. We have seen frames arranged on
some such plan in New Jersey, and used
for hardening off Tomato plants, etc. Here
the pipes were only a last resort in case of
late cold spells, the beds being usually
worked as simple cold frames, and the fires
started up only when the outside tempera- I twisting motion of the right hand. Celery
T. Greiner on Conditions of Suc-
cess In Transplanting.
In a wet season, or during a wet
spell, setting out plants in the open
ground is an easy enough operation,
and anybody, no matter how unskilled,
can succeed without effort. During a
prolonged spelt of heat and drought—
and we are apt to have such at the
season for setting Celery and late
Cabbages— the gardener often finds his
skill and experience put to a severe
test by the task. A supply of first-
class plants, I. t'., such as were grown
with proper allowance of space to each
plant, and consequently possess a fully-
developed root system and a short,
stocky top, makes success reasonably
certain even under otherwise unfavorable
conditions, especially if some soil be left
adhering to the roots in lifting and shifting.
The most essential requirement, however,
in any case is that the soil be moist, not wet
or sticky, but so that it will easily crumble
between the hands. If the soil be dry, it
must be freshened and moistened by artifi-
cial watering, or failure will be the sure
result. Planting in dry soil is usually fatal,
even if water be applied afterwards. A Iways
plant in trrs)ily-stirred soil, is a gooA ixiie
in this matter.
Puddling.— Simply dipping the roots in
water just before .setting them, is fully as
effective as the famous manipulation known
as "puddling" (dipping in thin mud), and
it is much cleaner, more convenient, and
generally preferable. I, myself, have no
tise for "puddling" neither for vegetable,
nor small fruit plants and trees; but dip-
ing the roots in clear water, just before
setting the plants, is a precaution which I,
or any other gardener, can not well afford
to neglect.
Firming the Roots.— Another indispens-
able requisite in successful transplanting is
the thorough firming of the soil around the
roots. It should be packed so tightly and
closely that parts of the i)lant would sooner
tear off than allow the plant to be pulled up
by them. It is advisable, however, to draw
a little loose soil=
as a kind of pro-
tection and
mulch up over
the firmed soil
, J *i. New ways Qf heating frames.
and around the
plant, and in very dry weather the latter
may be well-nigh covered up with loose
soil to prevent rapid evaporation.
Shortening Tops and Roots.— Another
sensible precaution in dry weather is the
trimming or shortening in of the tops of
Cabbage, Celery and other plants when
getting them ready for setting out. It is
done in the most convenient manner by
taking a bundle of plants in the left hand,
and removing about half of the tops by a
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
191
plants with excessively lonjj roots should
have the tips cut olT with n sharp knife.
Plants treated in this way, after being plan-
ted out. appear as here illustrated.
SriMM.iNo l"i..\NTs.— Kven the most ill-
looking, spindling, almost rootless plants
of Tomatoes, Cabbages, Cauliflowers, etc.,
can be transplanted with entire success
under average conditions of soil and season.
All that is needed is to insert the plants
into the ground up to their very hearts.
Overgrown Tomato plants may be laid down
in a slanting position, care being taken to
bring the moist earth in contact with the
soil where underground. From "How to
make the Garden pay. "
I am not a particular friend of transplant-
ing, and avoid it wherever I can. In thcuri/,
transplanting, which is a sort of root prun-
ing, induces early fruit production in Toma-
toes, Egg plants, etc., early heading in
I.,ettuce, Cauliflower, Cabbage, and root
development, such as is indispensable in
good plants for setting outdoors. For this
reason, gardeners practice, and writers
advocate, repeated shifting, repotting or
transplanting of all sorts of vegetable
plants, in particular, also, of Tomato, Egg
plant, Peppers, Cabbage, Celery, etc. In
pnwtice, transplanting, with its unavoid-
able root mutilation, is a stab at the plant's
vitality, and acts as a more or less serious
check to its growth, thus invariably dwarf-
ing it in some measure. Sometimes, if the
operation was done under favorable circum-
stances—in moist atmosphere, and absence
of direct sunlight— it is certainly followed
by earlier fruit production or earlier heading.
At the same time it also and invariably re-
sults in reduced size of plant or head, and
reduced aggregate yield of fruit. Should
less favorable conditions be ruling at the
time of the transplanting operation, how-
ever, the atmosphere \>e dry and the sun
bright, the plant will receive a set-back
which cripples and retards it for a long
time, so that the nntransplanted plant will
come even sooner to maturity.
The great advantage that transplanted
plants have over nntransplanted ones, is
the greater amount of space which people
generally allow to the former. Seedlings
are grown thickly in the row, and left
thickly. In transplanting, the space is
given to each plant that properly belongs to
it. Let this be done with the seedlings, by
early thinning to the proper distance ; or,
let the seed be planted in a pot or can large
enough, leaving only a single plant to grow;
and we can thus produce plants with a well
developed root system, and fully the equal
to transplanted plants in every respect.
This comparison, of course, refers to plants
started from seed at the same time. Much
higher rates are always asked for ■' trans-
planted" Cabbage and Celery plants, than
for common seedlings. The former, it is
true, are usually fine plants, with large
roots and stocky tops, and well worth their
price. I obtain just as good plants by
growing seedlings thinly in drills. All
seems to depend chiefly on the amount of
space given to each plant.
COMMENTS BY READERS.
A department to which all are im'ited to send notes
of experience and observation concerning topics that
recently have been treated on in this Journal. Slany
such contributions monthly are loelcojne.
Cat-ilogue Promises. Your correspondent
J. B. D.,Pa. in May issue, takes exception to the
catalogues in general, and insinuates that they
alone are responsible for what must be a series
of failures in his gardening experience, judging
from the tenor of his communication. It there
is anything in the whole list of plants, offered by
the various dealers, which would tax their
powers of description in an attempt to do them
justice, it is the very plants he mentions. Who,
that has seen a well-grown specimen of Clematis,
Rhododendron or Liliuni Auratun], can tr\il}'
say that they are described in colors too glowing
l»y an.v catalogue man ? It Is unfortunately the
fashion now to deride the catalogue men and
lay the blame of all failures in plants and .seeds
on their shoulders, yet they larely receive due
credit for the numberless good things they are
the means of bringing before the public. It is no
exaggeration to say that the Moon Flower which
he makes a target for his sarcasm was an object
of admiration in over one hundred thousand
gardens last years, and that perhaps double that
number will see its glories this season. If ,1. B. D.
would see to it that his ^
plants received the proper (
care as recommended by the "■■..,
catalogue men, and by Pop-
irLAR Gardening, I can
promise him that he will
have little cause for com-
plaint. Too many amateurs
conclude that when they dig
a hole and set a plant in it,
or sow the seeds, that they
have done all that is neces-
sary and expect that suc-
cessful refiults will follow,
forgetting that plants, like
animals, require constant
care and attention, and that
they are .subject to ills which
must be intelligently met
and combated. Get a proper
knowledge of the wants of
your plants, and be unre-
mitting in your care, read
good gardening literature
and you will see success,
where there is failure now.— Pat. O'Mma, Jersey
City.
Kaspbebry CuLTtTRE. On page l.')8 H. K.
Cotta says:" set the crowns of the roots of Rasp-
berry plants three inches below the surface."
In our experience with Kaspberries, especially
the Gregg, we have found this to be about right.
In planting we furrow out the piece to be plant-
ed, with a small diamond plow and set the plants
in the furrow with the crowns two or three
inches below the general surface of the ground.
As the plants grow these furrows are gradually
filled as the plants are plowed and hoed. Some
claim that there is great danger of the plants
drowning when set so low, if the season should
be wet, but if the ground has been well prepared
the danger from this source is slight. Last year
in a piece of nearly two acres of Greggs set in
this way we did not lose more than one per cent,
although it was one of the wettest seasons known
here for many years. He also speaks of the
Schafler as being one of the most profitable
Raspberries for a local market. With the best
of treatment it has proved anj-thing but profit-
able with us. It winter-kills every winter, even
the past one during which the thermometer
never went ten degrees below zero, it winter-
killed almost to the ground. It is too soft, if
left on the bushes until ripe to stand handling.
till' e.\ es cut out except the ujiiM-rinost one with
an idea that theywould callous and bemore likely
to 4'niit roots. These were kept in sand and
sawdust until well started ; were set out a few
weeks ago and seem to be going ahead. If they
glow, they ai-e not intended to be sold as such,
but used for stock to bud others upon. A south-
ern gentleman asked me not long ago whether 1
thought it would pay for them to grow Le
Contes for stocks. My answer was that if it
proved to answer the purpose as well as Pear
seedlings of our own, or the best French ones,
and they could grow them for ten dollars per
^^^
PLANTING SPINDLING CABBAGE PLANTS,
and It is unattractive in appearance.- E. L. Pot-
lard, Clinton Co., Mo.
Le Conte Pear. That this Pear so far as the
fruit is concerned, will not become popular in
the north is pretty well settled, I suppose, and
it seems the trees are liable to blight, even when
grown from cuttings. The next question is
whether it will make a good foundation for
other varieties. That it is difficult to grow from
cuttings here in the north we know, so this
spring I inserted small pieces of Pear roots,
such as were not fit to make permanent trees,
so as to give them a start. Some grafts had all
PLANTS PROPERLY TRIMMED FOR TRANSPLANTING.
thousand, it will do. That it may do under and
near the ground is possible, but it is not safe to
work it even at three feet from the ground ; as I
have trees of it grafted with Idaho that are
black and dying, while the graft of the Idaho is
still fresh. Of course the graft must die. This
is I think a pretty good sign that Idaho will be
blight proof. I have been gi'owing Pear trees
for fifty years, and battled with blight nearly all
that time carrying out the plan, that when one
tree dies, plant two more. Last season, however,
knocked all that out of my head. This spring
the axe has been laid to near a score of trees
and but two trees were planted ; and these very
small ones of which I will hardly ever see fruit.
— <S. Miller, Montgiimery Co., Mo.
Figs at the North. I have grown Figs suc-
cessfully for the last four years, and my expe-
rience may help others. You say cover with
litter and soil. I think covering with litter is
what causes most of the failures in attempts at
Fig culture at the north. Two years ago I cover-
ed part of my trees with leaves and soil with the
result that all so covered became moldy and
rotten, while othere covered with clean earth
came out in perfect condition. I bend my trees
down as described in Popular GARnENLNG,
then cover three to six inches of clean earth and
over this two inches of mulch to prevent alter-
nate freezing and thawing. Thus protected they
have'come out all right after the temperature baa
been down to 16 and 20° below zero. The trees
are not injured by the earth freezing solid about
them if they are left to thaw gradually. I have
also been successful in protecting Peach trees
the last four years, by bending down and cover-
ing with straw, have had fine crops of Peaches
when unprotected trees did not show a single
bloom. The covering of trees and plants in cold
latitudes is a subject entitled to increased atten-
tion.—C.iT. Meyer, I/ls.
Root Grafts and Whole Roots. There is
a great deal of humbug about this cry of whole
roots, and some of the travelling tree peddlers
have been using it as a means to rope in many
well-read and intelligent people. This 1 state on
Prof. Budd's authority. A Duchess or any other
absolutely hardy variety, he says, "will make a
good treee if grown from a cutting, and when
grafted on a short piece of root it practically is a
cutting, as the piece of root only starts it, and
roots are thrown out always from the cion.
Fully ninety per cent, of our thi-ee-year-old
Apple, Pear, Cherry and Plum trees are on their
own roots if they have been grafted with a long
cion on a short root and set deeply. ITet the
crown graft is the best, and nurserymen could
afford to make only one tree from one seedling.
But the whole root idea is nonsense, as it would
have to be set with a crowbar if put down deep
enough to cause it to emit roots from the cion,
as all our trees should do."
192
POPULAR GARDENING.
June,
Hints on Arranging Colors in
Flower Beds.
BY "CriRNELL AMATEUR."
Some very simple rules may be of help iu
the way of avoiding what is at once glaring-
ly unsightly in the matter of arranging
flowers about the garden.
ISrierty, to contrast with either one of the
three primary colors— red, yellow or blue —
the color which would result from a mixture
of the two remaining ones is most suitable.
ARRANGEMENT OF GEOMETRIC BED
Thus along with blue should be used the | appearance
secondary color orange produced by admix-
ture of red and yellow. A bed of red
Geraniums {primary color) seated on the
green lawn (green being a secondary color
produced by yellow and blue,) affords an
effect pleasing to most eyes. One of the
handsomest beds we met last year was com-
posed of a ground work of Lobelia with
tri-color Geraniums dropped in amongst
them.
Equal masses of bright color should be
avoided; one should predominate and the
other serve only to heighten it.
A bed of scarlet Geraniums may be beau-
tifully modified, by using bright pink Ger-
aniums in the center and then grading
through rose and crimson do^vn to scarlet
at the edge. Were the vivid mass then
bordered with yellow Alternanthera or
Pyrethrum, a balance most pleasing would
be secured.
A dash of white is always useful to break
up any masses of heavy color. In bedding
Coleus, "by using some of the darkest Coleus
at some point in the arrangement, along
with Verschaffelti, which continue to be a
favorite, the effect will be fine.
It is a wise rule to make each mass of a
color or variety large enough to have a cer-
tain mark of character or dignity ; breadth
in some of the masses is especially desirable.
Thus if one has three colors of Geraniums,
or Verbenas, or Phloxes, it is better to bring
the plants of each color somewhat by them-
selves, allowing the masses to blend as they
meet, than to mix all indiscriminately.
Purple and lilac group well together, but
should not be brought too close to red and
pink. They do well with the colder whites
and are seen at their best when placed near
to the grey-white foliage of C'entaureas, and
light Echeverias ; Pale yellow or white
make a suitable color to bring in between a
section devoted to purples, lilacs, etc., and
the group of warm colors such as scarlet,
crimson, pink, and orange.
Too much white is an offence against the
best effects. It will be found that a single
mass of white is usually enough, for any
garden scene or arrangement, that may be
embraced by the eye from any certain point.
Blue fiowers are the most beautiful when
completely set in an abundance of rich
green foliage, and next to this when
brought in contrast with pale yellows and
warm whites.
A progression of colors is seltlom other-
wise than pleasing. Thus in setting Pansies
start with the whites at one end of the bed,
following with yellows, browns, mottled
and striped colors, light blues, indigoes,
and other dark colors down to black. For
mixed colors a good order to observe as
applying to the generality of garden flowers
would be as follows: blues, light and dark,
passing to white, pale yellow, pink, rose,
crimson, scarlet leading to bright yellow
and orange. In Coleus, Alternantheras,
and other plants of similar widely varying
colors, the grading may be from darkest to
lightest. We do not in this pleasing work
favor reducing the separate shades or colors
to anything like definite lines, but blending
them in a manner that is as far as possible
devoid of stiffness of effect.
For the formal
geometric bed it is
different; here the
beauty of the
effect depends
much upon hav-
ing each portion
clearly defined.
The accompany-
ing design is of an
oblong geometric
bed of handsome
made on a lawn last year and
which was planted as follows: the parts in-
dicated by 1, with Coleus A'erschattelti; 2,
with dark, almost black Coleus; .3, golden
Coleus; 4, scarlet Alternanthera; 5, Varie-
gated Dew plant; (5, light Echeveria.
The Weather Plant.
Among the plants quite commonly found
in the gardens of flower lovers is the
Mimosaor Sensitive plant (Jii/no.si piidicn),
which is found interesting especially on ac-
count of the strange behavior of its leaves
on being touched. A near relative, the
Acacia, also shows much .sensitiveness of
its leaves to outside influence, especially to
atmospheric conditions, and so in greater
or less degree, do other plants of the same
order.
Another member of this order (Legumino-
sae) is now being extensively advertised as
THE WEATHER PLANT UNDER OBSERVATION.
the wonderful Weather plant. It has been
known in English gardens for 201) years
imder its botanic name Alirun prcattiiriaus,
but has now acquired a new name and new
fame as a prognosticator of weather
changes. In Henderson's Handbook of
Plants, latest edition, the following descrip-
tion is given of it: "A prccatorius, the
only species, is found in India, the West
Indies, and the Mauritius. It is chiefly re-
markable for its small egg-shaped seeds,
which are of a brilliant scarlet color, with
a black mark indicating the place where
they were attached to the pod.
The following is what Gardeners' Chro-
nicle has to say of the plant: It is the West
Indian wild Liquorice, so called on account
of the amount of saccharine juice in its
roots, which renders it available for all the
purposes for which the Liquorice grown in
European gardens is employed. It belongs
to the Phaseolus group of Legumes, and its
seeds are small Beans of a beautiful scarlet
color, adorned with a jet-black spot. In
the West Indies the beautiful seeds are
much used for rosaries, and there are red and
black-seeded varieties. Its special charac-
teristic is sensitiveness, in which it claims
alliance with Mimosa pudica, Desmodium
gyrans, and other plants that move their
leaves when irritated. It is not, however,
sensitive to touch in any special degree, but
to changes of temperature and to other at-
mospheric influences. We have noticed
that it changes color often, being at one
time of a full, lively, pure green, and again
of a dull yellowish green, and it appeared
to us that change of temperature was more
directly influential in causing these changes
than conditions of relative humidity. In a
temperature of 71 deg. F., the leaves incline
downward at an angle of about 4.5 degrees,
and the leaflets are nearly in a plane of the
rachis. But should the temperature fall,
say as much as ten degrees, the leaves and
leaflets would be so much depressed as to
give to the plant a quite peculiar appear-
ance. It is then in the same state as the
Clover and many more such plants that
drop their leaflets as night approaches— it
is in the condition that we call "sleep," a
condition brought about solely by a reduc-
tion of the temperature, so far as we at
present understand the matter.
Our illustration which is reduced from
Gardeners' Magazine (London), shows a
plant under observation for indications of
weather changes in a plant house in the
garden of the Royal Horticultural Society
at Chiswick, where they are kept in a house
heated to about fi9 degrees Fahr, They are
all young plants, placed singly in glass jars
that are supplied with air from above. Mr.
Nowak, who conducts these experiments,
claims to be able, by means of the position
of the leaves, a thermometer, and other re-
quisites, to foretell the weather 48 hours in
advance; but such claims are entirely un-
supported.
If the plant can do no more for us than
the barometer, says our English contempor-
ary, it will be a folly to keep it for weather
purposes, for a barometer takes care of it-
self in any safe place, but the plant needs a
glass house with the warmth of summer all
through the winter, and, in addition, a con-
stant attention the whole year round. So
far as we understand the case at present, it
does as many other plants do: it speaks by
its appearance of conditions then prevailing
whether of cold, heat,humidity, or drought,
and has absolutely no predictive power
whatever.
Culture of the Dahlia.
T. w. FISHER, WARREN CO., PA.
The popularity of this old favorite is
largely accounted for by the ease with
which the tubers can be preserved in suc-
cession year after year. The best plants are
those having but a single plant from each
root. Roots started in the hot-bed or propa-
gating frame in March or April, by just
covering them with soil, should be excellent
strong plants by the end of Mayor .Tune 1st.
They should be hardened off somewhat by
giving them air freely before putting out.
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
•93
The soil for Dahlias can scarcely be too
rich— where there is failure to obtain satis-
factory results with them the case may
usually be laid to lack of fertility. It. has
been my practice when planting; to take out
three or four spadefuls of soil anil replace
the same with the same quantity of rich
rotten stable manure, I liuisli the plant ing
hole liy bavins a little earth around the
tubers. After the root is covered with earth
I usually water the earth thorout,'hly with
manure water. Hy dusting a little lime
around the newiy-.set plants, slugs, which
are fond of them, are kept away.
Dahlias are thirsty as well as hungry sub-
jects, and repay by a profusion of bloom
any attention given them in the matter of
e.xtra watering during the season of growth.
Water should be applied towards the close
of the day, that which is .soft and clear over
the foliage, and mild liquid manure to the
roots. .\s the plants grow the manure water
may be used stronger. Such treatment is
the secret of having tinely-developed flowers
during dry weather.
I never set the plants closer than four feet
apart and am better pleased to have five
feet between, as this affords ample room for
development. My course is to drive a stake
four feet high firmly in the soil and then
planting against this, which then serves as
the main support of the plant during the
summer. In arranging the bed I place the
taller-grown in the center and the dwarfer
plants nearer the sides.
It is interesting to manage some plants
for growing flowers of extraordinary beauty
to show at the^fatrs or elsewhere. For this
one should, besides the center stake, drive
four other stakes at equal distances apart
and about a foot from the center to all such
plants as have been chosen for the purpose.
To each of these stakes a strong side shoot
should be tied and all others be cut away.
The main stems of Dahlias grow rapidly
when they are fairly started, therefore the
ties should be loose enough to permit of
growth. If there is any place about the
garden where a little attention paid to order
and neatness counts for a good deal it is
about the Dahlia bed.
In growing single Dahlias, the pegging
dovm system doing away with stakes, may
be adopted. This is especially true where a
large bed is devoted to these choice flowers.
The course to take is to lay the plants down
sideways at planting, and pegging them
down at once. No leaders should be allowed
to assume the perpendicular, until the bed
is covered, and the plants are ready to
bloom. A proper distance to set the
plants for this method is three feet apart.
The planting is begun in the center of
the bed, pegging dowu as you go, and
then there is no danger of treading on
plants already set.
A fact which may not be known to
most growers, is that the best time to cut
Dahlias for indoor decoration or other
purposes, is early in the morning, as they
then retain their beauty for a longer
period than those gathered later.
Dahlia roots may be easily kept over
in any dry frost-proof cellar, by covering
them lightly with a little soil to prevent
shrivelling. As soon as the frost destroys
the blooms, I cut the stems down to with-
in six inches of the ground, and in the
course of a few days take the roots up
carefully and dry them in the sun. Xo
frost should at this or any time be allowed
to touch them. Each tuber should be
labeled with name or color of the variety.
success. The accompanying engravuig
represents a perfect specimen of Aliiililim
rt rnuirium cm: (luninii thus trained, as
seen last season in the privateganleus of
Uaron Nathaniel von Hoth.'~cl]ild near
Vienna, Austria.
Mr. Anton .Toll, a horticultural authority
of that city, recommends in the Oaertner
Zeituug the A. rcriUnihim as a winter
bloomer, worthy of more general culture.
Specimen of AbuHlon as seen in tht BotlischiUl
gardens near Vienna.
This Abutilon, he says, is especially beauti-
ful, when top-worked upon stock of A.
Thtiiiiiisonii, or A. Snou-b<tU (bnl etc nciije),
or any other of the strong, erect growers.
It is an exceedingly free bloomer, and when
grown in this form, all its flowers show to
best advantage, suspended as they are like
veritable little bells. Especially eflfective
and charming is A. I'r.riUnrUim var.
ainxiiin with its yellowish leaves by arti-
ficial light in the evening.
The culture is simple, and exactly like
tli.-it nf other variftifs. Tlicy UKiy bo i>laiif-
The Spring Snowflake
The Si)ring Suowflake, l,ni<'iijiiin rcniinn
is a hardy bulb, which in earliness comes
along with the Narcissus and early Tulips.
It grows to a height of one foot, or in the
best localities somewhat more, and bears
pretty flowers. It is one of the best early-
tlowering bulbs, being neat and compact in
growth, it increases by offsets from the
bulb, the plants looking not unlike the
Narcissus, except in the (lowers.
The flowers are delightfully fragrant, and
somewhat resemble those of the Snowdrop,
but are much larger and appear a month
later. The color is white with a yellowish
green spot on each petal near the point. The
plants are entirely hardy and well suited
either for a sheltered border or for rock-
work. In common with other bulbs the
Suowflake is impatient of a wet soil.
This is not a new flower. It was first cul-
tivated in England in l.")!>6, having been
brought from Germany, where, as also in
Switzerland, it is found wild in the woods
and other shady places. It is said to have
become naturalized in some parts o_f Eng-
land. Bulbs of the Snowflake may be pro-
cured of about all dealers in hardy plants
and bulbs.
Beautify the House.
WM. H. YEOMANS, TOLLAND CO., CONN.
To keep the boys on the farm, make the
home attractive. One reason why so many
seek employment in the city, is because in
the mind's eye, if in no other sense, there
are greater attractions in the city, than the
home furnishes. Reverse this condition of
things and then mark the change.
Many farmers' homes possess in their ap-
pointments and furnishings too little that
is attractive. There are many that have no
more than a single weekly newspaper, and
hardly a book other than those that the
children have studied at school; no pictures
upon the walls, or plants in the windows.
What a dismal picture is this to those who
en.ioy different things ! What if it does
cost a little effort and some labor to care
for them, is not the presense of blooming
plants in winter, with the cheery spring-like
atmosphere which they give, a sufficient
recompense? We are led to these thoughts
by the presence in our home of a large speci.
men of Amarylis .Johnsonia in full bloom.
It is a vigorous growing plant, sending out
its dark green lancelate leaves three feet or
more in length. It commenced to send up
its flower stalks some time ago, seven of
which have already been produced rear-
ing themselves to the height of three feet
from which have been suspended the
very rich deep red blossoms, five stalks
of which produced four flowers each.
There have been ten in full bloom at
one time. It has been an object of beauty
and lent a peculiar cheerfulness to the
home, of far more value than the little
care it required. It is the little things
that by combination and special arrange-
ment add very much to the attractive-
ness of the home.
The Abutilon in Tree Form.
The tree form with many shrubs and
flowers, and even bush-fruits, is far more
popular with gardeners in Europe than it is
among American cultivators,'and usually a
THE SPRING SNOWFLAKE. Leucojeum Vernum.
ed out in the open ground during summer,
headed back once or twice, depending on
the wishes of the grower concerning the
time of blooming, whether early or late;
then potted off in autumn, and brought in
a cold house, or one with moderate heat.
Thus treated they will bloom in winter for
a long time. An occasional application of
strong cow-manure water, etc., will be of
material benefit.
l,T9ti. Exotic Graps Vines. To propagate
exotic Grapes, select one-year old, well-
matured wood with strong buds, and make
single-eyed cuttings, by making square cuts
a little less than one-third inch above and
below each bud. These cuttings are split
through the center, and the halves with the buds
laid bud side up in shallow boxes filled with
wood's earth and pressed down tightly. They
are then covered up with a thin layer of sand,
with a little moss on top ot this as a mulch, and
then placed on the propagating bench, where
thev should be kept moist and warm. When the
buds have started, the plants are potted off, and
nlaced on bottom heat to be kept in strong
growth. The plants are repotted as often as re-
ouired If this process ot propagation is begun
in January, the young vines will be strong
enough in the autumn, to be used for forcmg
and to bear the summer following.
194
POPULAR GARDENING.
June,
For Remembrance.
It is only a Rose, my darUngs.
Do you ask what the tale can be-
Why a Rose that Is withered and faded
Should be so dear to me?
Somebody sent It me, darlings,
Back in the days of yore.
On the night that his ship was sailing
Away to the dreadful war.
But I had my Rose, my darlings.
To comfort me day by day.
As I read the bitter tidings
Of the fighting far away.
Tin it drooped and died, my darlings.
And I read its message plain.
That he who had given that little Rose
Would never come back again.
And now I am old, my darlings.
And life draws near Its close.
You know my heart Is happy
As I watch my sweet dead Rose,
Our life has another chapter
To read in the world to be.
And love like a new Rose. darUngs,
WIU blossom for him and me.
—CasseVs Family Magazine,
Strawberry Song.
Jennie come, Bennie come, let us be quick:
Here are the Strawberries, ripe and .so thicljl
Ha! the gay fellows, so red and so fine:
Jennie come, Bennie come, clear every vine!
Jennie come. Bennie come, gather some more.
Never such beauties were seen here before.
Bright, luscious berries, all sprinkled with cream.
Truly a dish that is fit for a queen!
Youth's Companion.
Oh stay, because thou art so fair.
Sweet Rose-month, green and sunny June!
With thee dies music from the air.
The blackbird's and the throstle's tunc;
Oh! stay, sweet June, delay
Peg down the Verbenas.
Vieit " Woodbanks " this summer.
We thin mir vegetable and flower jilauts early.
Climbers without support can hardly Ije satis-
tory.
Summer plants, like people, do not thrive in a
close crowd.
It is the seed pods that bring the display of
annuals t^) an early close.
Do not forget that t he Aster likes, above all else,
rich food and constant moisture.
Grow Strawberries If you can; buy them if
you must— but eat plenty of them anyhow.
The Insect Powder Plant (Pjrethrum roseumi
has proved entirely hardy en our grounds this
year.
We want bloom right along, and therefore we
must keep on sowing hardy annuals for a month
to come.
Thnnbergias are very pretty and easily grown
annuals and are worthy a place in every garden.
—Argynnis.
We are going to make at least a trial of the
wringing method with one or two canes on our
Grape vines.
The Lady Busk .Strawberry is claimed to dry
up after being picked, rather than melt or rot
like most other varieties.
The Cnrrant Worm, that dreadful pest of every
garden, is not a native American, but is of
the bad emigrants from Europe.
They Peel so Easily. Now is the time when
young trees have no greater enemy than a care-
less band on plow and cultivator. Keep your
eye on the whiflSetree, and the whifBctree off the
young tree.
The Dewberry is just the thing for a dry and
sun-exposed situation. But stake it, by all
means stake it, or its creeping propensities will
make you tired.
For cut flowers, or corsage bouquets the
amateur should have Geraniums, Gladioli, Lilies
and Tuberoses. All of these stay fresh for a
long time after being picked even without water
—ATa]p\ni».
Emll Winter Pear. True it can not be com-
pared in flavor to the Seckel, Bartlett or Anjou :
but on the 11th of April last I found it tolerably
good in flavor for a Pear kept fully sound with-
out any more extra care than keeping out of the
reach of frost— ^4. A. Blumer, Mo.
Tnlip Sport. I have a Tulip in bloom, the
leaves of which measure eighteen inches by six
inches, and the stalk is single, and very thick
for five inches, then separates into four stalks,
each over four inches long, and carr.ymg a large
perfect Tulip.— If. J. R.. Sin^ingfield, I'.h.
Be fair with the Asparagus. Many people con-
tinue to cut far too long, and in this as in all
other cases covetousness meets its reward. The
beds must be very strong that will bear cutting
after June. If young seedlings spring up from
last year's scattered seed, weed them out.
By His Fruit Ye Shall Enow Him. We mean
the man who makes fruit growing pay. Now go
into the markets, note the No. 1 .'Strawberries,
and other fruits, and you wiU find his name
nicely stencilled on the clean crates. He is just
the one (and about the only one) who gets big
pay for his work.
Castor Beans make stately plants for late sum-
mer and autumn. While young they are often
attacked by the stalk borer. If the plants begin
to look unhealthy, look for holes in the stalk and
leaf stems and with a sharp small-bladed knife
split the stem from the hole until the worm is
reached.— -t rgim n >■■<.
Japanese Persimmons are now being fruited
in California to the extent of being freely offered
in the San Francisco market. The demand for
this fruit, however, is reported to be ratherslow.
While considered one of the finest fruits by some
f)eople, the majority are repulsed by the astrin-
gent taste of the green fruit.
London's Flower Trade. It is estimated that
London spends between 87,000,000 and §8,000,000
on potted plants and cut flowers. Many of these
flowers come from Holland, France and even
Italy. A single culturist in southern France
claims to send every year SfiO.OOO worth of
white Lilacs. Snowdrops, Lilies-of-the-valley,
and Roses to London.
In Bnshy Park near London are some long and
noble lines of Horse Chestnut trees which border
the roadway through the park from Teddington.
Every spring, when these are in full bloom, tens
of thousands of Londoners and residents of the
surrounding country flock to the park to ad-
mire the trees. The railway company even runs
special trains Sundays for the purpose.
Calla Lily Bulb PoiBonous. .^t least thisap-
l>ears to be the case according to an incident
reported In Therapeutic Gazette. A child hav-
ing eaten a piece of the bulb which one of the
neighbors had thrown out, was only saved by
stimulation and prompt use of remedies; and
remained for several days in a crictical condition.
Some caution in ttie management of Calla bulbs
ma.v be advisable.
Coppsras is not plant food proper. Yet in re-
cent experiments made with it, it was found that
it increased the yield of vines, and in a
measure protected the vineyards against
parasites. It also increased the yield of
Clover and Potatoes, and tended to sup-
press Potato diseases, etc. There is some
mystery about this substance. Which of
its constituent parts is the effective
agent, the iron or the sulphuric acid,
and how does it act? Who can give us
light on this dark subject?
A good gardener, Prof. Bailey observes, hard-
ly ever knows much about weeds, as he keeps
the ground stirred so often that they have little
chance to exhibit themselves. The weed seeds
may be in the soil, but the sprouting plants are
killed before they reach the light. Thus treated
weeds give but little trouble, and the crops do
all the better for this frequent loosening of the
sui*face.
Water Melon Cosmetic. It is said thatsouthern
girls, have for generations, used the juice of
Watermelons to beautify their complexion. It
Is believed that nothing is so soothing to the face
and hands, after a long drive or summer outing,
than the water from both the pulp and rind.
" The first, crushed by dainty hands and rubt)ed
on the face, takes off all sunburn, while the ap-
plication of the cool white pulp next to the red
meat removes the stickiness and gives a softness
to the skin of the Melon bather that can be ob-
taincil from nothing else. This is nature's own
cosmetic."
Trade in Chopped Apples. According to Mr.
Michael iJoyle's statement, the export trade in
chopped Apples— a dried product from inferior
fruit and material left after the preparation of
the best quality of evaporated fruit— had in-
creased from small orders in 1880 to 11,000,000
pounds in i8«(8, and 30,000,000 pounds could have
been sold in 1889. Cider is consumed in France
at the rate of 376.000,000 gallons annually.
American chopped Apples are largely used for
conversion into cider, and preferred to the home
grown article, being better preserved and of finer
flavor. It appears now that there is room for alj
we will be able to export.
The Begonia Bex This the type of the large-
leaved Begonias, and which is the subject of the
fine engraving on the opposite page, continues to
be one of the finest plants of its class. It is a
robust grower, possesses handsome colors and
contrasts in the foliage, and is in every way a
desirable pot plant, either for window culture or
for the warm greenhouse. It is an easy plant to
manage : give it light rich soil and an abundant
supply of moisture and little else is required for
its well-doing so long as a congenial heat of .50**
or upwards is maintained. It is also suitable for
the open air, in a three-fourths shady position
and where rough winds do not reach to break
the foliage.
Tomatoes in Tree Form, It anyone will follow
the directions "how to grow Mansfield's Tree
Tomato," which accompany each packet of that
variety as sent out by its introducer, to the
letter, we will wari-ant the result to be a true
Tomato tree, no matter what variety was planted.
The directions arc as follows : " Plant seed the
fore part of March in the house or hot-bed, set
in garden in May in rows east and west, eighteen
inches apart, near water, give them stakes or
trellis eight feet high; hoe out a ditch five or six
inches deep, one foot in front of plants, and fill
it with water morning and night. Nip off every
side sh(»ot as fast as they appear. Keep them
well tieil up, well trimmed, and no end of watei'."
Early Thinning of Fruit Essential. The hor-
ticulturist of the Missouri E.xperiment Station
has made some analyses uf ,\pples during the
different periods of their growth, which show
that much of the greater proportion of the ash
is stored up in the early part of the growth of the
fruit. This is urged as an additional reason for
thinning as soon as the wormy and imperfect
specimens of the fruit can be distinguished.
A barrel of large and perfect Apples takes a
smaller amount of minei-al plant food from
the soil than a barrel of small, inferior fruit.
The Apples on an acre of ground where the
tree stand thirty feet apart and yield ten
bushels of fruit to the tree, take from the soil
more than 13 pounds of potash. This suggests
the use of ashes, or of the potash salts, as a dress-
ing for orchards.
Tall Chrysanthemums have their uses, but for
many puri)oses the cut-back, compact, bushy
plants are more satisfactory. These are just the
thing for small greenhouses and conservatories.
This cutting back induces a wealth of rich
green vigorous foliage clothing the stems to the
BROKEN WEEDERS AND TROWELS UTILIZED. »
edge of the pots. The individual flowers, al-
though not extra large, are usually well-shaped
and fine in color. The whole process is simple.
Strike the cuttings and y row the plants in the
usual way until about first week in June, then
cut them down to within a few inches of the'soil.
Thin the strong latterals which will spring up to
three or four in number, and repot in the pots
in which they are to remain for blooming. To
secure really fine flowers, only one should be
left to each stem. Of course there are some vari-
eties which will not do well under this treatment,
but the majority do.
Visit Ihe Orounds. Last year numerous sub-
scribers visited the P0PP1.AR Gardening
grounds at La Salle-on-the-Niagara, on the occa-
sion of a trip to Niagara Falls, from which famous
resort, as all our older readers know, we are only
five miles distant, with many trains daily. This
year we hope to see many more of our friends,
if for no other reason than that these grounds in
which every sulKcriber has an interest, are in a
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
195
more advanced state of improvement than a
year hko. These prouuds, comprising: thirteen
acres, are conducted solely for the benefit of our
readers. In the past two seasons more than
twelve hundred dollars worth of fruit and orna-
raentiil trees, shniVis and plants have been set
out for experiments and for beauty, hence the
place is beeominK a grand ob,leet lesson for every
lover of horticulture. The time by train from
Niagara Falls is but eight minutes, the fare 15
cents. Our home and these improvements are
but i-) mile from the La Salle station.
Double-flowered Chinese Plnm (Prunus tri-
loba). There are but few more beautiful hardy
Howering shrubs than this, yet one seldom meets
with it. For small gardens it has special value,
as it docs'not grow to a large size, forming,
when grown as a standard, a dwarf spreading
head. For this reason, when placed in shrubber-
ies where vigorous growing trees abound, it
should lie brought well to the front, where in
early spring, when crowded with blossoms, it
forms a conspicuous object. In the standard
form, indeed, it well deserves a position on the
grass; but it should, if possible, get some
shelter, for rough winds and heavy rains dam-
age the expanded flowers. Tt may also be
grown in bush form, and it is really admirable
for forcing under glass in winter, as it flowers
freely in pots in a small state, and requires but
little heat to induce it to open its blooms. The
si..ne plants may be used year after year if
carefull.\- hardened off, plunged or planted out,
anil well fed in summer, but it is better to have
two sets, allowing one year to recuperate.— J ('.
Hot Water vs. Sleam. Prof. I,. K. Taft of the
Agricultural College of Michigan has also made
some comparative tests of the hot water and
steam sytems for beating greenhouses, which
corroborate Prof. Maynard's conclusions, that
the hot water system is less expensive, and con-
sequently preferable. The records kept of the
two test greenhouses on the college grounds
show that during January the hot-water house
averaged 15 degrees warmer than the steam-
heated house and to secure this it required C75
liounds of coal less than was used in the steam
heater. In February the water house averaged
one degree warmer than the other and the coal
used was ti2.'> pounds less. Altogether, Prof.
Taft feels justified by these results to say that
while the old method of piping for water heating
with four-inch east iron pipes was undoubtedly
less economical than steam heating, the present
system of water heating with small pipes will
certainly prove more satisfactory in every way
for houses less than 100 feet in length.
A Use for broken Trowels and Weeders. K nock
out the old rivets. Then le%el off the lower end
of a small broom handle and rivet securely to
plate as shown in illustration. This makes la
very useful implement for digging out plants
from the center of cold-frames, hot-beds, etc ,
also for lifting plants anywhere in the flower
garden. Could I have but one trowel, I would
prefer the above to one with a short handle. It
will stand more prying, although there is danger
of prying too hard. What is needed is a similar
tool, no larger, but of thicker steel. Would it
not pay the manufacturer to put such a one in
market? The Hazeltine hand weeder is another
very useful tool, but for several purposes ( such
as weeding, or stirring the soU among plants in
the center of cold frames, hot-beds etc.) it may
be much improved by removing the original
handle and substituting a small broom handle.
It is also of advantage to form a V shaped notch
in the end of blade as it will enable the operator
to easily catch on to the plants, and as it prevents
slipping when weeding or thinning out plants
that are growing close together. This may seem
a little thing, nevertheless the extra amount of
work accomplished will be considerable in the
long run.— TT. C. Jennison.
Barning over Strawberry Beds. We have for
five seasons tried burning over the old .Straw-
berry patches which we wished to have bear
another crop, and like the method so well that
we shall follow this plan exclusively in the
future. I think the plants begin to grow again
soonsr and are more vigorous and healthy for
the burning. The fire in some way or other
causes the soil to "mellow up" and hold
moisture much better, where it has become hard
from being tramped over by pickers. Weed
seeds and insects at the surface will be destroyed
and nearly every weed will succumb while only
here and there will a Strawberry plant be killed.
In '88 we had a patch which burned "spotted"
on account of old half-rotted straw being used
for a mulch. Wlii'rcver the fire reached, the
plants grew beautifully and were free from
grubs. It is also claimed that burning tends to
cure and prevent rust or leaf-blight, but I can '■
not sjx'ak from experience as to this. A valuable
advantage gained by burning is that the patch j
will not need any work— e.vcept to run between
the rows with the cultivator -for four or six
weeks after their " baptism of fire." They can
then be carefully hoed and the job with us has
never been more than half as hard as when we ,
did not burn —B. F. Kiiylf.
"How to make the Garden Pay." Mr. T.
dreiner, in this recent work, brings together 272
large pages of practical ideas and information
PLANT OF BEGONIA REX. S« opposite page.
which will be widely welcomed It is a work that
treats especially of the latest ideas and methods
now in vogue with advanced American garden-
ers. The author is not only an accomplished
tiller of the soil, but is also a keen experimentor
and close observer, and in the present treatise he
gives the results of his special attention to the
culinar.v vegetable branch of horticulture, al-
though the wants of the fruit grower are also
much had in mind, one chapter being devoted to
the Strawberry. The three chapters on the im-
portant subject of manures are especially inter-
esting. A particular charm of the book is its
many beautiful and clear illustrations. The
sensible talks on improving the home gardens of
.\mericans to the end of an increased vegetable
diet, and of converting the vegetable garden
into a pleasure spot instead of a place of dreadful
toil should be sounded from end to end of our
land. Yet withal the valuable information con-
tained in the work, it may not be improper to
point out a single defect. We allude to the three-
board drain shown on page 86 which is made to
appear with the widest flat side down, when it is
obvious that a better conductor of water,
and less liable to clog, would be obtained by
directly inverting it, to stand like the letter V-
This valuable work is published by Wm. H.
Maule, Philadelphia, Pa.
Chat about the Use of Flowers.
Only a few short weeks ago the ladies were
wearing bunches of Tulip buds at their throats;
arranged with their soft, grey leaves. Now I
hear the golden blossoms of the Dandelion are
imitated and worn; but then the tendency is to
do as in Paris where anything is worn— imita-
tions of frogs and toads, lizards with diamond
eyes, or death's heads and cross-bones of oxi-
dised metal.
They have just had a great flower show near the
Champs Elysee, Paris, at which Orchids, Palms,
Azaleas, Koses, and Pfponies were beautifully
shown; but .\lphonse and Jeanette must have
something sensational, and this year the much-
talked-of novelty is our old friend, the green
Rose. It is amusing to read the remarks about
this depauperated old variety in the papers,
even some of leading journals have fallen into
the trap, and speak of this old botanical curiosity
as if it were some unheard- of wonder of which
horticulturists ought to be very proud ! It is
often sent to me to name. It was sent only
yesterday, and by a gentleman who lives adjacent
and it has been in botanical gardens where it has
been grown for years and years.
As.long'as life endures we shall tind it full of
whims and caprice, I suppose. What flower did
Helen of Troy bind in her aubtirn .tresses? or
what, if not the buds of Pomegranate, revealed
the blue-black intensity of Cleopatra's hair?
Who shall tell us which blossom of antiquity is
the oldest, the Nelumbium of the east or Sun-
flower of the west? These secrets are safely-
locked in the safe of Time, and one must rest
satisfied with the sure and certain knowledge
that never since creation were flowers more
beautiful or so widely grown and appreciated as
they are to-day.
Can there be a sweeter or more. beautiful wall
shrub than the Chinese Wistaria in a warm and
sheltered garden? I saw several garden walls
(juite wreathed with masses of its (irape-like
clusters a few weeks ago, but here it is only
just now expanding its soft mauve flowers.
Near Paris this rambling shrub is planted quite
abundantly, and especially is it used for the
draping of iron railings,. thus .forming a sort
of floral wreath or frieze, and fretjuently ex-
tending for a length of very. many, yards.
When grown in side, garden walls near the
public roads a shoot is often trained a foot or
So above the wall coping on a strained wire,
thus forming in spring a wreath of olive-green
leaflets and drooping blossoms beautiful. to see.
There are two or three varieties. Perhaps
the finest form is a white one, having elegant
'ong spikes of bloom, and then there is the
double-blossomed form, which, like most other
double Pea flowers, is a wretched thing. The
main drawback to the more frequent planting
of Wistarias is their slowness of growth for
the first year or two, and some little difficulty
is often experienced in propagating them.
Layering is slow, but sure. On the other hand,
once well planted, a Wistaria will cover a
hundred feet of wall and live for a centur.v or
more— a thing of beauty. And there is this
in its favor it does well even in the heart of
large trees, where so many other things fail.
Soft and white as swan's-down, sweet as spices
from Eastern seas is the white-blossomed Pink,
opening out fresh and fair early in rosy June.
It is one of the veiy best of all our real old
garden flowers, and with deep, full-scented Cab-
bage Koses and a deep fringe of this old Pink
yon may make a posy not easily surpassed in
freshness and in subtle perfume. I remember
some old villages in the midlands of England the
streets of which were nightly perfumed with
these flowers, so that strangers in passing used to
ask the source of the fragrance with which the
air was overladen. No garden could well be too
full of this flower, which is, as I think, prefer-
able to the new white called Snowball— smaller,
it is true, but a much more shapely blossom.
The faults of Jlrs. Sinkins are fatal to a good
Pink— it is too heavy and lumpy in shape, and so
full of petals, that, as a rule, the tube becomes
split, and the petals fall out in a helpless, disor-
ganized-looking way.
In France, market growers often make quite a
S])eciality of these white Pinks; grown in pots
they bloom early in April, and are highly appre-
ciated ere the general supply comes in. All the
Pinks are so readily increased by pipings or slips,
that there is no difliculty in obtaining a good
stock of these soft and fragrant flowers of June
and July.
In this da.v when the tendency is to overdo the
use of flowers and floral designs at funerals, to
an extent indeed, that leads many mourners to
refuse flowers altogether, it is a relief to meet a
really tasteful and flt use of blooms about the
casket of the dead. Such the writer recently
came across at the funeral of an acquaintance.
While flowers were used freely, there was an
entire absence of stiff unnatural designs. On the
casket reposed a large wreath consisting chiefly
of long-stemmed-Roses, and spring flowers. On
the extreme end of the top lay a loosely tied
bunch of Lilacs and white Roses, some of which
hung down a little into the casket near the face
of the dead. Around the outside from handle to
handle, there was looped a string of Smilax,
with a bunch of Roses either white pink or
yellow, caught in each of these and together
serving to relieve the outlines of the case and
take the glare off from the silver holders.
Throughout the rooms there was here and there
a vase of flowers, with a single large basket of
blooms placed near the head of the casket. It
was a beautiful illustration of bringing flowers
in profusion, but with good taste to the last sad
rites of the beloved departed.
Observer.
196
POPULAR GARDENING.
June,
FRoH
THE
SOCI£TICS
TO BFwiosvf Knoym,
Apples for Missouri. The
^best are (Irinies' Golden,
Jonathan, Koine Reauty,
Winesap, Clayton and Ben
liavis.— Sfc'y Guodman.
Missouri Horticulturists.
The StaU' Society will meet
at Poplar BlutT, June 3d, 4th,
and 5th. Low rates on R. R arc secured.— X.. A .
Goixlmaii, Sn-relary.
Buffalo Forists' Club. A Chrysanthemum
show will be held in the fall of this year. Advance
list of premiums and further information will be
furnislied by the secretary, Mr. Dan'l B. Long,
Buffalo, N. Y.
The Asparagus Season. The plantation should
not be weakened by too long a season of gather-
ing. A good rule to follow is to stop when the
early Peas are ready to market from adjoining
land.— (7ia,s. W. (iarfidfl.
Early Harvest Blackberry. It should be left
to three or four eyes. If you leave longer you
load it with fruit that won't ripen early, or
come to any size and if you trim closer you cut
off all the fruit buds.— (1ia.s. Wright hefiyre a
Fiirmein' Iiuttitttti:.
Apples Along the Highway. J. B. Smith of
Indiana stated before the American Horticul-
tural Society that he planted 60tl Apple trees
along the roadside of his farm and it was the
best advertisement he ever had. The public
had all they wanted, and he often could not take
care of what was left. He advised every one to
try the plan.
' Ohio State Horticultural Society. A summer
meeting will be held at the E.xperiment Station
in Columbus, June llth and 12th. Reduced rail-
way fares, a large attendance and a successful
meeting are expected. All horticulturists are
cordially invited to be present. Non-members
may write to the secretary for programmes. — W.
W. Farnsu'orth, Sec'y, WaterviUe, O.
Chautauqua County Vineyards. The area is
rapidly increasing, and the so-called " Vineyard
District," which extends for forty miles along
the south-east shore of Lake Erie, will soon be
entirely given up to this industry. Last year 360
acres were devoted to the propagation of the
vine, and more than 10,000,000 cuttings were
rooted.- Prom Chautauqua County Report, VK
N. T. Hnrt. Society.
American Horticultural Society. The long-
time secretary of this association. Prof. W. H.
Ragan, has been compelled by continued bad
health, first to decline a re-election, and also to
resign the unexpired term. He has been a faith-
ful servant, and has the everlasting gratitude
and good will of every member. The secretary
elect. Prof. E. A. Popenoe of Manhattan, Kans.,
has been appointed for the unexpired terra, and
has already assumed the duties of the office.
Native Grapes. More wild varieties are found
in this country than all the rest of the world
and Texas contains more wild species than all
the rest of the United States, of these Vitis
Champini is a line wild Grape of West Texas,
grows well on dry hills ; V. Solonis stands heat
and drouth ; an excellent species for Western
States; V. Linsecomii (Postoak), a fine wild
variety of East Texas, has berries as large as
Concord, and should, above all, be used in hybri-
dizing to bring out valuable varieties.— Pro/. T.
V. Munmn licfore the American Hort. Soc.
American Association of Nurserymen. The
fifteenth annual meeting of this association will
convene at the Park Avenue Hotel, New York
City, June 4th, and promises to be a notable
event. Among the horticulturists expected to be
present with off-hand talks or papers, are Profs.
I. P. Roberts, L. H. Bailey, J. L. Budd, B. E.
Fernow, B. T. Galloway, also Hon. H. E. Vande-
man, A. S. Fuller, etc. Reduced fares have been
secured on all railroads east of Chicago, and re-
duced prices at the new flie-proof hotel. For
particulars address Chas. A. Green, Secretary,
Rochester, N. Y.
The Friendly Toad. The toad is more cleanly
than the poodle which some ladies caress and
take in their laps. He is the abiding friend of
the farmer and the horticulturist. He feeds
upon cut worms and regards the curculio that
infests the orchard as a great dainty. Toad
houses should be built in every garden and
orchard. Four bricks are enough. In winter
dig a hole in rear of the house and cover him up.
In spring he will resurrect himself. The toad
has a long tongue and is a fine shot and scarcely
ever misses his aim or his game.— Z>7'. L. li. Clif-
ton before the Georgia Agricultural Sue.
Exotic Grapes in Florida. During the dis-
cusssions before the State Horticultural Societj'
Mr. G. P. Quaintance stated he would set wild
roots, and next year graft on them. The Black
Hamburg did excellently well this way; on its
own roots it was a conspicuous failure. Mr. E.
O. Painter agreed with this \'iew ; had planted a
Niagara which made a growth of 50 or BO feet in
a year. A Black Hamburg grafted on a wild
root in a hammock, where it had always stood,
did remarkably well. Mr. R. W. Pierce told of
a vine that was brought to his neighborhood
from France. For several yeai-s it languished
miserably, but finally it was grafted on a wild
root and it now bears literally bushels of Grapes.
He had the Sweetwater grow 75 feet in one year.
Planting Evergreens. 1 have adopted Ever-
greens as ornamental trees. I planted with care,
and lost hundreds of trees. Y^et I thought things
were done in the best manner possible, but that
wonU save the Evergreens from dying. All the
water and all the care in the world will not pre-
serve Evergreens, if you once let the dirt dry on
the roots. The outside moisture on the roots
must not be allowed to dry, if you want the tree
to live. There is a resinous substance on the
outside of the roots, and if the roots once be-
come dry, water can never penetrate that resin-
ous covering, and the plant cannot but die.
There is not a tree on my place that I don't
prune every year. I have a pair of long sheare,
and in some cases I climb the trees.— r>r. Lyons
before the Illinois State Hort. Soc.
Sources of Phosphoric Acid. In the United
States bone was first used about 1790. The
first bone mill was established in 1830, and
superphosphate, or dissolved bone, was first
tried in 1851. In 1843 phosphatic rock was dis-
covered in Spain, and in 1808 in South Carolina.
The latter contains from twenty-five to thirty-
two per cent, of phosphoric acid. Three million
dollars' worth of it are now mined annually.
The phosphoric acid in thes'^ rock phosphates is
insoluble, but when ground and treated with
sulphuric acid they are converted into super-
phosphates or soluble phosphates. Another
valuable source Of phosphoric acid is bone black,
a waste product from the manufacture of sugar,
containing about thirty-four per cent, of insolu-
ble phosphoric acid.- Pro/. C. H. Whitcher before
the Ma.'is. Hort. Soc.
Horticultural Education. For years past we
ha\-e been reaping the natural results of a sys-
tem of education that, intentionally or uninten-
tionally, turns all our young people for a livli-
hood towards the occupations of teachers,college
professors, lawyers, physicians, clergymen, book-
keepers, salesmen, musicians, artists, agents, and
business men- under which last head a multifa-
rious and heterogeneous legion of middlemen
are iileased to class themselves. These men
have had the control of educational affairs, and
they have kept the schools turning out their
kind so long that there is unquestionably in the
country an overwhelming surplus of middlemen,
non-producers and men living by their wits.
Such a surplus is bound to make trouble. All
are determined to live in affluence if possible—
genteely at all events.— Hod-i/ L. Clapp. Mn.<<s.
Hort. Soeiety.
Hardy Boses. Pruning and Varieties. The
chief objects in pruning are to give and preserve
a symetrical form and to promote growth for
the flower buds. Plants of delicate habit and
weak growth require severe pruning ; those that
are vigorous in growth should have the shoots
moderately shortened, but the branches well
thinned out. The rule is that severe pruning
gives the best flowers but less of them ; and for
quality few plants should be left in the spring
exceeding two feet in height, though when an
excessive growth has been made the previous
season, it is not always safe to cut back too
severely. There is very little to choose as to
time betweeu late fall and early spring, though
I prefer to prune sparingly in the fall and com-
plete the work the following spring. As to
varieties a Rose for general cultivation must be
hardy, of free growth, of good form and color
and fragrant ; for exhibition purposes some of
the qualities may be wanting. There are other
desirable points, such as freedom of bloom, per-
raanancy of color, beauty of foliage and the
like, but the Hi-st five are essential. Some of the
most beautiful exhibition flowers fall short of
the perfect Rose " Baroness Rothschild," the best
light-colored Rose in cultivation, hardy, perfect
in form and color, but an indifferent grower and
without fragrance. Mad Gabriel Luizet,"
though not equal in form and color, is hardy, a
fine grower, and somewhat fragrant. "Louis
Von Houtte " is probably the best dark Rose we
have as an exhibition Rose, almost perfect in
form and color, deliciously fragrant, but of poor
growth, and not entirely hardy. Both " Fisher
Holmes " and " Baron de Bonstetten " would
outrank it, both being hardy, of fine growth,
good form and color, and fragrant. The only
ones in the lists which need protection are " Co-
ipiette des Blanches," " Eliza Boelle," " La
France "and " Louis Von Houtte," though the
fither might receive some benefit from it.
I ha\e both Blanches and Alps which have en-
dured the winters of the last twelve yeai-s with-
out any protection whatever; though the tops
are more or less injured, they renew their growth
quickly in the spring and bloom freely during
the summer.
The Cantaloupe and Its Varieties.
lE.rtract of jtajter rcful by Df. Iiobert P. Ilarrifi before
the Pennsi/fvania UortUultural .Snricty.)
In the estimation of some i)eople, the Can-
taloupe has no equal among our summer
fruits. To get it in perfection, the fruit
should be removed from the vine shortly
before it is ripe, wa-shed with soap and cold
water, then dried in a soft towel, and set to
ripen in & dry place. A Cantaloupe that
before washing stnells like a Potato, will
in a few hours begin to give out an inviting
perfume, and when this odor has reached
its proper measure and character, is the
time to cut it.
My own ideal Melon is of the size and form of
a large ostrich-egg; with a thin finely-netted
rind; thick, grass-green fiesh,asmall seed cavity
and a sweet aromatic flavor. The " Centre
Melon," a small green-fleshed Cantaloupe excel-
ling in richness of flavor all its competitors,
was the progenitor of the Jenny Lind variety
named about 1846. I am inclined to believe that
it originated in the east, possibly in Armenia,
where netted, green-fleshed Melons are produced
in abundance. These Armenia Melons belong
to a hardy race, are quite productive in our
climate, and can stand it quite as well as any
of our own kinds; they are as yet untirely un-
known to our seedsmen, but have been grown
under the severe test of the season of 1889. In
form they are flat, globular or oval, the last
being seven inches long, and all are fine-grained,
thin-rinded, green-fleshed and closely netted,
the last an unusual feature in our own varieties
last year. This oval Cantaloupe has come nearer
to my ideal than any one I have yet tested, and
I hope to give it a better trial this coming sum-
mer. As Oriental seeds always come mixed in
the packages, it will take time to separate the
varieties by selection. As I have discovered
Erzeroum, in Armenia, to be a great Melon
centre for both Cantaloupes and Watermelons
that are calmlated to stand our hot summers,
our enterprising seedsmen will take a step to
secure a full line of seeds.
The Cantaloupe has largely multiplied in its
varieties in our country of latter years, and we
have now those that are white-fleshed, yelloVv-
fleshed, red-tteshed and salmon-Heshed. We
have also netted, toad-marked and smooth fruits,
with green, yellow and whitish rinds. Attempts
have been made to grow the winter varieties of
Naples and Malta, which may be ripened from
Christmas to Easter, but as yet with not much
of encouragement.
In size the Cantaloupe varies as much as in
<iuality, and the extremes of weight (a few
ounces and flfty-two pounds, the largest being
coarse-grained and somewhat fibrous) in fruits
are produced, especially of the green-fleshed
varieties. The largest imported kind was intro- ,
duced from Portugal, and of native varieties,
was brought recently from Colorado, both at
their maximum weighing over fifty pounds, and
being as large as very large Watermelons. For
a combination of large size and fine (juality,
perhaps no imported variety over equalled the
Persian Melon grown for many years in the
vicinit.v of Washington City, under the name of
the Hunter Cantaloupe, a long, golden, closely-
netted fruit, with green flesh, reaching twenty
iSqo.
POPULAR GARDENING.
197
iiK'lii's ill k'liuth anil u woittht of twoiity-tlvc
lK>unds. Tliis must not Ix* confovindcM with the
OiiMiba or Sinyrnii Melon, often erroneously
called Persian, the seeds of which were sent to
the Tnited States by Dr. GwHlell.
Persia is a land of Melons, from which we have
had, as far as kiunvn to nie. lull four varieties of
OintalouiH', twti of wliieh aiv still prtwluced, and
no Watermelon. Travelers praise the Melons of
Persia, write atxiut them and invariably thritw
the seeils away.
My own Cantalouix" tests have been made with
seeds fn»m France, the north and south of Italy,
TriiMili, Turkey, Turkistan, southern Russia.
Kussian tieorjria, Cappadoeia, Armenia, the Val-
ley of the Euphrates, Palestine and ,Iapan.
Many Melons that are excellent in France and
northern Ital.v will not grow in our climate on
account of the heat; those frtim the land south
of Naples do fairly well, but their quality for the
table is inferior. The toad-marked Melons of
northeastern Italy under reixjated tests have
always failed, and so have our netted varieties in
the c<)oler parts of that peninsula. Worms and
bugs appear to delight in the flavor of the deli-
cate foreign vines, and if the plants should in
part escape their ravages, their leaves droop
under the sun. and the fruit can hardly be consid-
ered worth cutting.
Classification. Cantaloupes may be divided
into two classes: one that ripens to the best ad-
vantage in the house, and the other on the vine
and exposed to the sun. Xetted and grooved
Melons, as a rule, attain their finest flavor in the
house, and should be pulled as soon as the green
color at the bottom of the grooves has fairly
begun to lighten. If a netted Melon is pulled a
little too soon it wUl keep a long time but never
ripen, and some varieties when apparently well
matured will only go to decay it separated from
the vine.
Cold nights, cold, damp ground and a mild
temperature, with very little or too much rain,
are all antagonistic to the growth and maturing
of our Cantaloupes. Cold ground, with in the
day a moderately warm sun, will cause a large
Melon to grow flat at the bottom and very con-
vex at the top; the flesh of the upper part will
also be much thicker and better flavored than
that of the bottom.
Hybrid, Although the pollen of a Cucumber
flower is capable of ruining the flavor of a Can-
taloupe, it is very rare for a hybrid to be pro-
duced. I have seen such, between a Cucumber
and a Jenny Land Melon, which was a decided
curio8it.v. A noted Palestine Cucumber, known
as the Mukte's, is produced upon a vine that
very closely resembles in leaf and color that of a
Cantaloupe; stiU, the fruit is an old variety of
Cucumber and quite distinct from any of our
sorts. The long Banana Cantaloupe makes a
curious hybrid with the Jenny Lind, the product
being oval, yellow, almost tree from netting,
very fragrant and salmon-fleshed; it has a better
flavor than the former, but is quite inferior to
the latter.
In Armenia there grows a C£intaloupe,propabl.v
of large size, to judge by the seeds, which is so
sensitive to the heat of the sun that the gardeners
are in the habit of covering the young Melons
with earth until they reach a certain size, when
they are uncovered; this variety will be tested
the coming season in several localities. The
seeds are very large and white, much larger than
any we have, and resemble somewhat a curious
yellow Cappadocia Melon introduced by me sev-
eral years ago and not now grown; it was long,
flat, smooth and salmon-red resemble fleshed, the
Banana Cantaloupe in pretty much all points ex-
cept shape.
Winter Melons. Some years ago some winter
Cantaloupes were grown in this latitude, but the
measure of success did not encourage the grower
to continue the experiment; still, I see no reason
why other attempts should not be made. Ameri-
can visitors to Naples are willing to pay sixty
cents for a green Melon in winter, and speak of
it as wonderfully fine; in fact, it is the finest Nea-
politan variety, and ought to be grown in some
southern state, if possible, as a new industry. If
the Naples Melon will not succeed, the Malta
green one should be tried. These Melons are put
away in the fall before they begin to ripen, and
kept in a cool place. When one is to be ripened
it is hung up in the open air in a warm place, in
a net or a little bundle of straw, as bottles are
sometimes encased for packing. The Naples
seeds are very large, but of a form that ought to
grow; the dry soil varieties may do better in our
country.
Girdling The Vine.
(>V(mi paper rend by F. J. Kinrwi/ before the Boston
Famierit' Meeting.]
Knowing that Dr. Fisher wa.s one of the
strongest objectors to trirdlint;, I siiKKCsted
that experiments be made by him, he to
furnish fruit from his own vineyard of his
own selection. Last year the arr.iugement
was made. He took one row fifteen to
twenty feet long.
Dr. Fisher was asked to girdle one arm of each
vine leaving the other in natural condition. The
Committee of the Horticultural Society visited
fir. Fisher's vineyard the last week in August.
It was curious to lo<ik at the row; on the girdled
half the Grapes were in fit condition to pick for
market. The single Grapes were as large as the
Hamburgs in my cold grajwry. The others were
just beginning to turn; the Dr., on the 25th of
September, picked and send the first lotto Dr.
Goessmann; on the first day of October he select-
ed specimens from each vine, and sent them for
analysis.
The two important elements in the Grape are
sugar and water. lu the girdled vines the por-
tion of water was 76 and a traction per c«nt. In
the ungirdled vines it is SI and a fraction per
cent, in the girdled there was 7 and a traction
per cent of sugar and in the ungirdled 6 and a
fraction of sugar. The girdled fruit thus sur-
p.issing in both respects. Dr. Fisher said to me:
"I was never more dissapointed in all my life,
although I had given it more attention than ever
before and I had become certain before the ana-
lysis that there was more sugar in the girdled
fruit; there was more sweetness in its taste."
Now if this is a fact— if it does not injure the
fruit and it ripens from one to two weeks earlier
and increases its size from one-third to one-half,
it is certainly worth considering. In taking the
later varieties and ripening them a fortnight
earlier it gives us mote scope, and it is so easil.v
done, it is done in a moment, girdling the vines
below the lowest fruit bud. If there are a half
dozen bunches— one quarter of an inch below
the lowest fruit bud, girdling on July 1.5 perhaps.
Mr. Wheeler says an.v time after the fruit gets
to l)e the size of buckshot. He has done it for
ten years without any perceptable injury; still it
is a question whether in the end it will not
seriously affect the rtgor of the vines.
On Maintaining Prices for Fruit.
iFrom paper by Capt. E. HoUister, before the Alton
Southern Illinois Horticultural Society.)
My first proposition is the absolute neces-
sity of producing a grade better ttan good
as generally understood, in fact it must be
the best. Fruit is or will be what we make
it. and this more than a slight difference in
soil. Make pets of your plants and trees,
with generous and seasonable care born of
a wish to succeed. Make your o^vn record
as a fruit grower, and determine that in all
respects it shall be above suspicion. Make
the quality paramount to the quantity, be
not ambitious to compete with or excel Mr.
Bragg, who plants many acres ; ambition
should be made of sterner stuff, but if
tempted in this direction beyond ability to
resist, then do not forget the wisdom so
dearly bought.
Everybody may have his peculiar method, and
will be quick to take advantage of the seasons
and the constant climatic changts, and often
such will prove the making of the crop. Vigil-
ance in this profession carries the balance to the
right side of the account. It will not do to be
slothful in this business. Some wise man has
said *' there is a tide in the affairs of men." Hor-
ticulture is one of these affairs which must be
taken at the fiood. Ever.v effort in this direction
has brought such reward as to incite to more
prompt measures in all possible circumstances.
Planting. Here I wish to say a few words
about planting Strawtxrrries. We cannot con-
trol the rains we would all like to have each
night after a day's planting. The soil is not
always ready, or the plants are not at hand, so
the delay, and the sun and the winds are carry-
ing the moisture away, and if set then, many
plants will not survive ; my remedy is to not
plant then, heel in your plants firmly, when par-
tially shaded, water sufliciently to keep the
plants growing, and as soon as the new white
roots are well formed, then on freshly prepared
soil you may set with the assurance of a good
stand.
When you have gone through the process of
planting and cultivating, and the rewarrl of your
labor L« seen in the l«)untiful crop, (hen comes
the problem of how to pack and where to send
to best maintain prices. If in the first instiincc,
it is absolutely necessary to produce the best
grade of fruit, much more so now to secure the
Itest results.
Packing. It is a self evident fact that the fruit
and packing should be of the best character.
Your product comes in competition, not only
with your neighbors, but from many points
south and elsewhere, and as a matter of course,
the best finds the ready sale and best price.
Some years since I had occasion to ask a fruit
grower, why his Peaches showed so much, and
good color'; They were packed in third bushel
boxes. He said in packing he was only following
nature; that he found the best and highest color-
ed fruit around on the outside of the tree. There
were no windfalls or trash inside, however, as in
another instance, which upon inspection, proved
to be so outrageously packed, the owner never
called for his money. Not one in a hundred can
bring fruit, such as berries, in a wagon without
springs, yet I have known one to do so many
times, and his fruit was in good shape, and reach-
ed market uniformly and in best condition.
For the small fruits the sixteen quart case has
been most extensive!}' used with satisfaction,
the one fault common is the lack of tacks in
putting the quarts together, and so with the
usual rough handling in transportation, the
upper tier is apt to break down; an extra tack
or two will remedy this, and go far to help make
good sales. Of course your cases and quarts
will be new, bright and clean. Should you be so
fortunate as to have good local markets your
fruit should be fairly and evenly ripened, if for
a distant shipment. Strawberries colored in part
are firmer and will color in transit. My experi-
ence has made me set highest value on the
Duchess Pear packed in barrels. In planting
more I would not take them on the Quince stock
only so as to secure earlier bearing and to plant
alternately with standards. My reason is that in
a few years' growth, they Ijecome top heavy and
are frequently blown down and broken off at
the root. While the Pear stocks keep them firm
in their places and eventually carry more fruit.
The Uarkets. The question now will lie where
to find such a market as will best maintain prices.
With this comes the problem of transportation
which must be taken into account. The indi-
vidual shipper is at the mercy of the railroads
and express companies who without fear, favor
or affection for a ten to twelve hour transit take
not less than twent.v cases out of one hundred of
berries, for their portion, whiie the commission
man takes ten more. You can then see what is
left for you to pay for packages, picking and
cultivation. The fruit grower has no subsidy to
relieve him, no protection from the extortionate
freight charges and often no relief for damage
while in their charge. Can the fruit growers of
Alton combine in their shipments to secure low-
est rates? California has long practiced such,
without which they could not live. Cobden
growers and others have operated on the plan
with satisfactory results.
Inspect the Market. It wUl be well for the
shipper to occasionally follow his fruit, note its
condition on arrival. See what and how others
are sending. Such an object lesson will prove
well worth the time and expense. Another point
he will make by such a trip, to see the market
and style of customers at the different places.
Some will take one grade or class of fruit;
another a different, perhaps better grade. .Such
personal knowledge will be of great benefit and
is essential to success in this business. By know-
ing the character of your market, you can dis
criminate as to quality, not daring to send to
the one that would readily move in the other.
We always have two grades to ship, and one we
reject, which may in part at least find use in the
family.
This personal observation at the end of the
route will go far to explain some of the reports
of the commission men ; occasionally 1 have
been made ashamed to see some of my .Apples,
knowing my instructions as to the packing had
been positive and to select close.
The Commission Man, For your shipments
select good commission men in a few markets,
keep in constant communication with them, use
the wire freely, send them the best and in the
best shape.
198
POPULAR GARDENING.
June,
Were it possible to dispose of our products in
local and near markets, without the middle man,
or if buyers could be induced to come, these
methods would prove very satisfactory. We
cannot wait for the buyers to come, nor will
local and near markets take all our fruit, the
alternative is to trust your fruit to the tender
mercies of the railroad and the commission man,
in fact much of it is all trust and little or no pay.
That there are dishonest commission men we all
know by experience : this should make us wiser
and stick to the true and tried ones.
Late Experiences With Insects In-
jurious to the Orchard and
Garden.
(Extracts from paper by J. A, Lintcr, before the West-
em New York Horticultural Society,)
You will be glad to know that rapid pro-
gress is being made throughout the United
States in the study of our insect foes and
insect friends, and how they are to be met.
There is every prospect that within a few
years nearly all of our most injurious insects
will be brought under control.
Spraying Operations. Judging from pres-
ent indications, the force pump is destined, for
the future, to play a prominent part in our oper-
ations against. the insects of the orchard and
garden. The ease with which the codling moth
can be controlled, and the Apples grown of full
size (the elements permitting), of perfect form,
rich in color, of highest flavor, and of resistance
to early decay, are a sulEcient attestation of its
value. By its aid we hope soon to control the
ravages of almost every insect that feeds upon
the foliage of our fruit trees, and of a large num-
ber of those that attack the products of our
gardens. To do without a force pump is costly
neglect. Insecticidal spraying, compared with
old methods, as pinching by hand or distributing
poisons with a sprinkling pot, is as the Gatling
gun in comparison with the old flint-lock musket.
Experiments show conclusively that in spraying
with the arsenical poisons, much stronger mix-
tures have been used than are necessary, and that
in no case need they exceed the strength of one
pound of the arsenite to two hundred gallons of
the water. For Plum trees one pound of the
arsenite to 250 or aOO gallons of water should be
used, while for the Peach, a dilution of at least
aOO gallons is recommended.
Spraying With Water. This has proved
elBcient in arresting the injuries of one of the
chief pests of Rose growers— the Kose-slug, Man-
ostcgia rosii" (Harris). I have every confidence
that a rather coarse spray of water thrown with
force will serve to rid us of the injuries of many
other pests. It will be efflcient against the little
white Rose-leaf hopper— probably the Tettiqonia
7'imv of Harris. It should also be equally efflcient
against the several species of small leaf hoppei-s,
Erythroneura vitis, and othera, that infest the
Grape vme, particularly if employed against
them in the early larval stages. It should be de-
structive to all f)f the plant lice that can be di-
rectly reached by the spray.
Carbolized Plaster Preventative, From
some experiments in protecting Plum trees from
curculio attack, carbolized plaster, made by
combining one pint of crude carbolic acid with
50 pounds of plaster, has shown such beneficial
results that the method merits additional trials.
It may prove a valuable preventative in the dep-
redations of the Rose bug, Macrodactylus subs-
pinosux, from which, as yet, we know of no sat-
isfactory means of protection.
Coleopbora 8p. A New Pear Insect- On
June 8, 1888, Mr. P. Barry reported to me that
the newly-set Pears of the Mount Hope Nurseries
had been vigorously attacked by a new enemy, a
queer-looking worm, which was found with one
cud inserted into the fruit.
Specimens of the fruit submitted showed that
the operations of the caterpillar consisted in bor-
ing numerous round holes of about the diameter
of its body (that of an ordinary pinj to the depth
that it could protrude from its case. Withdraw-
ing itself, it would remove a distance and again
burrow into the fruit. Many of these holes had
been made in each Pear. One of the Pears re-
ceived,of only one-half inch in diameter, showed
by count, 44 of the borings.
It is quite probaljle that this Coleophora attack
will prove to be widespread. The larva^ ceased
feeding and fastened their cases on end to the
bottom of the box containing them on June 13th.
The first moth emerged twelve days thereafter,
and the second on July 7th. Should the insect
appear in injurious numbers hereafter, it could
be destroyed by spraying with an arsenite soon
after the setting of the young fruit.
The Pear-bli?ht Beetle. The " Pear-bhght
beetle," Xylchorus pyri (Peck) appeared in great
abundance in a Peach orchard of Mr. Norman
Pomroy, of Lockport, N. Y., in the spring of
18^8, where its operations were so severe that the
orchard, consisting of young trees, was nearly
ruined by it. The attack had assumed a different
character from that usually ascribed to it, for
instead of the burrows of the insect running up-
ward or downward, in this they were mainly
horizontal, and carried around the trunks or the
limbs of the young nursery stock so as to nearly
girdle them and permit of their being easily
broken off by riand. All of the trees attacked
were killed, and were eitherpulled up when they
were seen to be dying, or sawn off below the
lowest burrows, which in many cases was near to
the ground.
This "Pear-blight beetle," destructive also at
times to Apple, Plum and Apricot stock, was de-
scribed and its operations observed as long ago
as the year 1817, and has since been frequently
written of; but up to the present day it has suc-
ceeded in keeping its early stages from us.
Quince Bloisoma Beetle. From Mr. A. H.
Briggs, of Maccdon, examples of a species of
snapping'beetlewere received on the 20th of May,
188!i, which, during the preceeding four years,
had been so abundant, and injurious to the blos-
soms of his Quince trees that he had been obliged
to go over the trees daily and knock the beetles
into a pan of kerosene and water. The same in-
sect had made its demonstrations on the trees of
Rev. Dr. Jacques; while four years previously
residing at Macedon Center, and had been fought
by him with Paris green mixed with flour.
The Peach Bark Borer, This is a well-known
pest and formerly supposed to be the cause of
"the yellows;"but its only connection with it has
frequentl.v been found in trees that have become
weakened and sickly through disease. All of
these Scolytid bark-borers, from their conceal-
ment and habits, are difficult to reach and kill,
and we know of no satisfactory methods at pres-
ent of dealing with them. Whenever a tree has
become badly infested with them, it should be
promptly taken up and burned. This insect
seems to be increasing in the State of New York.
The Cherry Tree Slu?. The larvie can be
readily destroyed by spraying with hellebore in
water— an ounce of the powder to two gallons of
water— or dusting foliage with air-slaeked lime.
The Grape Vine Flea Beetle. An unusual
number of intiuirics ha\'e been received during
the spring and summer of the Grape vine flea-
beetle. Wherever it makes its ajipearance, effort
should 1)0 made to destroy the beetles during
their hibernation, by burning or removuig their
ordiuar.v winter quarters, as in the rubbish of
the vineyards, or the loose bark of the posts. In
the early spring, when they first make their at-
tack on thebudsto which they are so destructive,
they should be knocked off daily into a pan of
water and kerosene, or jari-ed to the ground and
crushed, or a poisonous hquid applied fo the
buds. The ravages of the larvic, at a later period.
ma.y be controlled by Paris green in water.
Mr. Snow, of Penn Yan, has detected an insect
preying upon the larvie by sucking its juices.
They were Hemipterous, belonging to the plant
bugs, of which so many are known to be valuable
aids to us in the destruction of our insect foes.
A New Bose Pest. A destructive borer of the
tips of Rose bushes has made its appearance at
Au Sable Forljs, N. Y., during the past summer.
Its form of injury is to commence attheextreme
tip and burrow downward several inches, con-
suming the entire interior of the stem.
The lady sending them has written: "About
20 years ago, my garden Roses were infested by
this same borer. I fought them with knife and
fire for four or five years, and rid myself of them
entirely, and had never seen one since until this
present year.
A New Enemy of the Currant Worm. A la rge
plant-bug was discovered l)y Mr Samuel G. Love,
of Jameston, N Y., with its beak inserted into
Currant-worms, Nematus I'eiitrico^us, sucking
out their juices and killing numbers of them.
When received by me, they were m their pupal
form. They were fed on Currant-worms until
they transformed to the perfect stage, permitting
of their identification as Pndisux cyjiiciw (Say),
after which they were released to feed at large,
in the hope that their progeny through coming
years would inherit a special fondness for the
food of their ancestors, and thus aid in the work
of bringing under control that annoying pest.
London Purple. Dr. Liutner said that it was
the waste product of analine dyes, and contained
about 4;i per cent of arsenic, while pure Paris
green contained about 58 per cent. One pound
of London purple to ,500 gallons gave no satisfac-
tory results. He advised one pound to 300 gal-
lons for Pear trees; and if the London purple be
of pure (|uality and put up properly, that will be
found sufficient. One pound to 2(10 gallons was
also used on Plum trees with marked success.
He thinks we shall soon come to the use of one
pound of Paris green to 250 or 300 gallons of water.
Why not Plant a Grove?
{Adapted from paper by Prof. W.J. Beat, Agrieultu.
ral College, P. O. Miih., in the Report of Fruit Orow-
ers' Association of Ontario.)
Generally, of late years, when there is a
heavy fall of snow It is soon so unevenly
distributed that we have little Idea of how
much lias fallen. It piles up along the
north and south roads, and blows from
some parts of the east and west roads. The
Wheat fields have many barespots, while in
other places the drifts are deep. The
animals at such times eat more grain and
fodder than they do wheti there is less cold
air in motion. The house, too, gets coldfr
in the night than it used to when there
were few strong winds. When I came to
this neighborhood much of the and was
still covered with a dense virgin forest. As
one block of woods after another disappear-
ed, I noticed the winds becatne more fre-
quent and penetrating.
There is a partial remedy for checking the
fierce winds which drift the snows in winter,
shake the Apples from the trees in summer and
lodge the grain before it is ripe. It is to plant
trees. The cost is much less than most persons
miagine, and when once started they keep grow-
ing year by year, and before you are aware of it,
the little trees have grown upwards and spread
outwards. Suppose you were to plow a strip a
rod wide and ten or fifteen rods long, either in
a straight line, in a curve or in an irregular
shape. That would not cost much. Then
harrow it well as though you were fitting the
piece for ( 'orn.
Of course you must arrange fence so as to
keep cattle, sheep and horses away from young
trees. Let us see about a plan for a wind-break
or for a small grove. You can put in as many
kinds of trees as you like, the more the better,
if you want to try experiments and think you
would like to study them and learn their habits,
but .you want trees that will grow fast, that are
likely to remain health.v and furnish protection,
you need onl.v one, two or three species which
are best adapted for the purpose. We can't
afford to go to the woods and dig trees. We can
buy them cheaper.
Buy them! Some one will say. Wh.v, a nurse-
ryman will charge me twenty-five to fifty cents
apiece for his Evergreens. I can't afford that.
Procure small trees ; they will cost much less ;
they can be more easily planted ; will be more
likely to live and after a few years they will
very likely catch up and overtake trees which
were larger at the time of planting. The founda-
tion of your screen will consist of Evergreens.
If others are added which are not Evergreens,
they should not be put in blocks each sort by
itself, but mixed more or less in checker-board
style with the Evergreens. And the Evergreens
may as well be mi.\ed if no others are planted.
You will want to set them in rows, straight,
curved or crotiked in one way four feet apart,
and three or four feet apart in the row, so they
can l)e as easily cultivated one way as Corn and
Potatoes. There is little risk in setting too thick-
ly, and the trees will sooner shade the ground.
Nurserymen who grow seedlings— advertise
in the horticultural journals, will send by mail
young plants about as follows : White Pines,
three years old,® tl per l00,orS8 per 1,000. Norway
Spruces, 3 years old, (g 75 per 100, or $() per 1,000.
At about the same price, you can procure any
or all of the following : European Larch, White
Ash, American Elm, Black Cherry, Black Locust
and many others, remembering that for good
screens half or more of the trees should be
Evergreens rather equally distributed over the
ground. A single row or two rows will make a
good screen, but you will be better pleased with
a wider strip of trees.
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
199
AlHuit sotting the tret'S. Tliey will if uniorcil
early arrive almut the time you are sowintt "ats,
Open the paekagcs, and plaee the roots in damp
soil in the shade, not forirettinir that the roots of
trees arc unfitted by nature to stand the air. In
the wind or the sun or in dry air, or in the open
air, roots will live just at>ont as lonp as a black
bass will live out of water; not much longer.
Prepare some thin mud in a pail, tilling it a third
full. In this mud place the roots of the ti-ecs
one sort at a time Of course you have staked
or marked out your (.'round. Din a snuill hole
with a spade and let the boy drop a tree in the
hole : strniRhten it up ; replace the soil, not
omitting to step your full weight with one foot
each side and near each tree Ijefore leaving it.
This is important, as it packs the soil close to the
root*, helping it to retain moisture, and prevent-
ing the air from entering. One after the other,
all the kinds are planted.
If Black Walnuts, Chestnuts, Butternuts,
Hickories and Oaks are desirable in any places,
plant the nuts where the trees are to remain.
Then cultivate this land as you do your best
Cornfield, with level culture, only continue to
cultivate all summer.
Keep on cultivating during the succeeding
years, as long as a horse can get through the
rows, perhaps four or five years more, then the
trees will not need it any longer. From time
to time you will very likely pick up some other
kinds of small trees, or shrubs from the neigh-
boring woods, and set them in among the others
in the grove. If the cultivation is attended to,
and the land is not too wet, you will be surprised
at the nipid growth of the trees.
In older states, like Massachusetts, farms
already bring a better price if they contain some
suitable groves or lots of young thrifty timber.
As the grove improves with age, you will be
reading every good thing you can get on foresty.
You will be planting for study as well as for
producing a grove to shield animals or growing
crops, from the severe winds.
Reader if not already done, will jou not plant
a grove this year, or do something to induce
some of your friends to plant one '/ The writer
will be glad to give any further instructions in
his power on this subject, and would coifeider it
a favor to receive a postal card from any who
contemplate a grove.
CONDENSED GLEANINGS.
Bounty for Sparrow Heads- Jfichlgan is one
of the states in which a bounty is paid for the
Extermination of the EngUsh Sparrow. But ac-
cording to a late bulletin from the Experiment
Station of that State the bounty too often helps
forward the destructive work of the sparrows by
killing other insectivorous birds. Too many of
the county clerks cannot distinguish the head of
an English sparrow from that of a linnet
or a thrush, and the mone.v is actually paid
for the destruction of such valuable birds as the
song sparrow, the red-polled linnet and the even-
ing grosbeak— birds which are protected by the
state, under a law which makes their slaughter a
misdemeanor, to which a penalty of five dollars
is attached. The bulletin gives such illustrations
and descriptions as will enable the officers to dis-
tinguish between the native birds and the foreign
A Broad-Topped Grape TrellUe.
nuisances. Nevertheless the law should be so
amended as to make it the duty of county
clerks to inform themselves and to collect a fine
for every native bird offered for a bounty. It is
to be remembered that the English sparrows de-
stroy fruit, grain and vegetables. They attack
blossoms, young fruit and grain at harvest time.
They eat some insects, but they protect more
than they feed upon by driving away native in-
sectivorous birds. Wrens, martins, swallows,
blue-birds, and even robins and wild pigeons
suffer from these marauders, who destroy nests.
young birds and eggs for no other apparent pur-
pose than to drive these birds out of the neigh-
borhood.—(iarden and Korest.
Beet Sugar, The persistent agitation of the
culture of the Sugar Beets and the manufacture
of sugar from them on large scale in this country
is at least bearing fruit. The United States De-
partment of Agriculture is completing an ex-
haustive investigation of all that has been done,
from the time that the first experiments in Beet
culture were nnide at the Massachusetts Agricul-
tural college down to this year's experience in
the two large Beet sugar factories in California.
The United States Senate has directed its Com-
mittee on .Agriculture to report a bill for the
Iiromotion of the industry, and Senator Mander-
son has already introduced a bill providing that
a bounty shall be paid for every ton of sugar
Beets raised in the United States, delivered to a
factory and manufactured into sugar, and also
providing a bounty of 85 cents per hundred
pounds of sugar so produced, to be paid to the
manufacturer. The operation of the proposed
law is left to the Secretaries of Agriculture and
the Treasury. Mr. Manderson also introduced a
bill making an appropriation for the importa-
tion of sugar Beet seed by the Secretary of Ag-
riculture, and also of machinery for its culture
and for the manufacture of Beet sugar, all to be
admitted free of duty. A large factory to work
up the Beets grown on .5,000 acres is now being
built at Grand Kapids, Hall Co., Xeb.— American
Agriculturist.
Advantages of low Brancking. Important
advantage of low headed trees will be found in
the fact of the more complete shading of the
trunk and the adjacent soil. Most cjf the attacks
of borers and other insects are invited by the de-
bilitating effects upon the bark, of the hot suns
of summer, followed by the severe cold of win-
ter. These attacks are rarely, it ever, made
except where the bark is thus exposed. With
pear, plum and cherry trees, especially, I would
branch within eight or twelve inches of the
ground, or perhaps a few inches higher in case of
the more spreading varieties. The peach, if
branched very low, may be injured at the forks
by the larva? of the borer, the moth finding this
a convenient place in which to deposit her eggs.
For this reason it is better not to branch the
Peach tree lower than two feet from the ground.
The plow and cultivator should never be used
beneath the branches and among the feeding
roots of an apple tree, or indeed of any other
tree. I would, therefore, branch apple trees in
orchard within from one and a half to four feet
of the ground, varying more or less, according
as the habit of the variety is more or less spread-
ing. The type of beauty in evergreens consists
in" their being clothed with foliage from the
ground up.— Cor, O. J. Farmer.
A Broad-topped Grape-trellis. Mr. C. B. Rock-
well, of Illinois, has used the Grape-trellis illus-
trated herewith, with a very satisfactory degree
of success. The posts are somewhat stouter
than usual, and set ten feet apart. Near the top
of each, and six feet from the ground, a cross-
piece is firmly spiked. The cross-pieces were at
first made two and a half feet long ; but three
and a half is found to be better. The lower wire
is strung along the posts three and a half feet
above the surface of the ground. Two and a
half feet above this second wire is strung from
the centers of the posts at the intersection of
the cross-pieces. Two others are strung from the
extremities of the cross-pieces, horizontal with
the upper wire, and one foot nine inches distant
on each side. The object of using the broad-
topped trellis is to give the Grapes all the room
possible. In our soil the canes will make a
growth of fifteen to twenty-five feet in a year,
and it is necessary to give them support without
carrying the trellis too high. On the row trellis-
ed in this way I had, last year, twice the quantity
of Grapes produced upon any one of the rows
adjoining it. They were more free from rot and
more convenient to gather.— Am. Agriculturist.
Boses for Perftune. Gather the Roses in dry
weather, remove the petals, and to a peck of
fresh leaves add a good handful of salt. Let this
remain five days, stirring up the leaves every
day. When they appear moist add three ounces
of bruised Allspice and one ounce of Cinnamon
stick bruised. Let remain so a week, stira-ing
daUy from the bottom. Then put into a perma-
nent jar one ounce of Allspice, and add the stock
layer by layer. Sprinkle between the following;
One oiince each of Cloves and Cinnamon, two
Nutmegs all coarsely powdered, some Ginger
r(H)t sliced thin, half an ounce of .4nLse-seed
bruised, ten grains of fine Musk, half a pound of
freshly dried Lavender bowers, two ounces of
powdered Orris root and ad lihiliin cologne. Rose
or Orange flower water, Orange or Lemon peel.
Freshly dried Violets, Tuberoses, Clove pinks, or
any other scented flowers may be added. Fine
extract of any kind will enhance the fragrant
Oder, while fresh Rose leaves, salt and Allspice,
made as at first, may be added when convenient.
Stir the jar occasionally, leaving it closed except
when the perfume is wished to odorize the room.
Detroit Tribune,
Mending Decay in Trees. Garden and Forest
reciaumend the following method of filling cavi-
ties in the trunks and bodies of trees; The edge
A Self-supporting Step-ladder.
of the cavity should be cut away smooth and
even, and all decomposed matter or growth of
new bark formed in the interior should be re-
moved. A coating of coal-tar should then be
applied to the surface of the cavity, and the
mouth protected with a piece of well-seasoned
Oak securely driven into it. The end of this
plug should be cut even with the surface of the
trunk or limb, made perfectly smooth, and then
coated with coal-tar. If the cavity is too large
to be closed in this manner, a piece of seasoned
Oak-board should be fitted and securely nailed
into it, and then covered with coal-tar. A new
growth of bark will gradually extend over the .
board and so effectually cover the cavity.
Influence of Soil on Fruits. The Strawberry
has been classified with some degree of accuracy
as depending upon the character of soil, and one
is known to require clay and another to do best
in sandy soil. The Kieffer Pear is worthless,
grown in some localities, and is excellent grown
in some other places. The Apple, the Quince,
the Pear as weU as the Grapes and Berries are
largely dependent upon soil, for any peculiar
flavor or richness they might possess. It is well
known that Celery among the vegetables comes
within this same category; and Kalamazoo Celery
stands No. 1, not from any better seed, not from
any peculiarity about the plants themselves, but
from the nature of the soil. By trial find what
fruits are of richest fiavor on your own farm and
make of them a specialty.— Maryland Farmer.
A Self-supporting Step-ladder, The Canadian
Horticulturist describes a self-supporting step-
ladder as resting on five bearings, three of them
adjustable as to length and position, and easily
adapted to aU inequalities of surface, pefectly
secure, and very profitable. The crane, or bas-
ket and hook holder, rotates, or may be shifted
to either side of the operator, will support thirty
pounds of fruit in basket with ease, and the legs
all fold in when required. It provides a safe
stand, and at the same time increase the facili-
ties of the operator in picking fruit, pruning
trees, etc., giving him the full use of both hands,
and placing the basket within easy reach of the
same.
Sweet Corn. We are each year more favorably
impressed with the Black Mexican. It is one of
the sweetest varieties for the table, makes a
medium sized stalk with a large amount of
200
POPULAR GARDENING.
June,
foliage, and gives a better development of ears
with close planting than any other variety we
have grown. This makes it very valuable for
an early soiling crop, for it will be in its prime
for feeding when the later and larger varieties
are as yet so immature as to have little feeding
value. Our expeiience in canning Sweet Corn
for winter use has not been encouraging, and of
lat« years we have given up all attempts in this
direction, preferring to buy of the standard
brands with which the market is always well
supplied.— Farmer's Review.
Hens, Bees and Fruit. Fruit raising, bee keep-
ing and poultry culture go well together. The
last and first are closely beneficial to one another,
and never fail to pay. The best Raspberries,
Plums or Pears have been cultivated and picked
from trees and bushes where poultry have been
allowed to run until the fruit was nearly ripe.
Birds keep down the suckei"s on bushes and the
strength naturally goes to the fruit. The apiary
in a good orchard with now and then a little at-
tention has always paid the keeper. Good man-
agement is the chief point. When this is at the
helm, half the battle is won.— Farm and Home.
The Japanese "Wineberry, This Raspberry
is in fact a Japanese species, though somewhat
more ornamental than useful. Very hardy and
free growing; keeps its foliage well in summer.
It also keeps its ornamental flowering and fruit-
ing condition for a longer period than do our
garden Raspberries. Thefruit, however, is some-
what insipid. As to its being "new," this species
has been grown in this country as a botanical
curiosity for at least l:; years. It may be useful
for purposes of hybridization as well as for its
peculiarities of calyx, flower, foliage and habit.
—Rural New Yorker.
The Wild Cucamber. Echinocystis lobata looks
well enough on paper, but let it once get estab-
lished in a garden, and the owner will never
cease to regret it. And yet it is merely an annual
climber having to seed itself every year. In-
credible as it may seem, for 10 yeai's I have been
trying to exterminate it from my garden and
without success.— H. H., in Rural New Yorker.
Cultivate Early and Close. With the Potatoes
and Corn the harrow is the best imj>lementto
commence the cultivation, and can generally be
used twice with benefit. In using the cultivator
care.should be taken to work.as close to the plants
as possible, especially the fii-st and second times.
A Modest Thief. A New Jersey Negro visited
a chicken house and grain shed recently and
stole 31 chickens, is bushels of Corn, two bags of
Corn meal, three bags of Rye in the grain That
New Jersey farmer should thank his stars that
be was left the chit^kcn house and grain shed.— Ex.
Save the Trees. When boys and men climb
into a young and thrifty fruit tree in the grow-
ing season they should not wear heavy boots with
nails in them. Rubber shoes or slippers, or even
the bare feet, are much safer than coarse boots.
—Ploughman.
Bequisites of Successful Gardening. The es-
sentials to a good farmer's garden are— an appre-
ciation of its utility, a love for the care of it, and
a pride in its neat appearance. Having these, a
rich soil and long rows will bring success.— Ex.
The Sun Brings Bloom of Health. Many people
are so choice of carpets and curtains that they never
let in the sun and full light of day. Far better fade
the dryB4)ods than their own rosy faces and weaken
their vitality. -Maj. H. T. Brooks.
Damages Honest Dealers Also. The enterpris
Ing nursery dealer who deceives credulous planters
into buying poor new varieties at high prices not only
depletes the immediate victims, but damages horti-
culture as well.— Ploughman.
FrotectinK Cherries. Where one has but few trees,
and those close together, the fruit can be protected
against feathered friends by an occasional pull at a
cord attached to a bell in one of the trees, and leading
to the residence.— Tribune.
Mineral Manures Best for Peas and Beans. I use
dissolved bone, bone-black or South Carolina rock and
a very little nitrogenous manure. In this way I get
an abundance of seed with a moderate vine growth.—
Abner HolUngsworth.
All Fmit Growers Should Keep Bees. No farm Is
stocked unless it has several colonies of bees, to fer-
tilize the fruit bloom, and provide nature's choicest
sweet for the family.— Farm Journal.
The True Value of Fruit. We have often said, and
say now, that there Is a profit to fruit growing outside
of the money consideration. Every farm ought to
have fruit upon it.— Ex.
Oerlainly no Overproduction. How happens It with
this enormous increase ot the number of food eaters
the business of making food Is so unprofitable?— Amer-
ican Garden.
Don't Worry. Half the things we groan over to-
night will right themselves before to-morrow night If
we let them alone.— Good Housekeeping.
Grow What People Like to Buy. One of the best
places for the farmer to get knowledge ts in the mar-
kets. Flud out what people want.
Benefits of Shade Trees in Cities. It is accepted as
a sclentltlc fact that trees render the atmosphere purer.
— Gemiantown Telegraph.
Pay as You Go. No species of slavery ever held
man with more relentless grasp than the credit system.
Vegetable Products on the Table,
Cherry Catsup. One quart of sour Cherry
juice, one pound of sugar, two teaspoonfuls of
Moves, two of Cinnamon and a very little Cay-
enne Pepper. Boil until thick, bottle and seal.
Strawberry Preserves. To a quart of fruit
allow three-fourths of a quart of sugar and
half a pint of water. Boil the suj?ar and water
to a syrup, put in the berries, cook twenty min-
utes, and seal. Nice for tarts.— Ex.
Sweet Pickles. To every three pounds of
stoned Cherries take seven pounds of brown
sugrar, one ounce of Mace, one quart best vine-
gar. Cook till your fruit tastes done. It keeps
well, and is a nice relish in winter.— G. Housek'g.
Spinach. Wash, boil in boiling salted water
until tender. Drain and chop fine. Melt two
tablespoons butter, add the Spinach, one tea-
spoon salt and one saltspoon Pepper. Cook five
minutes stirring often. Mould, serve with eggs.
Strawberry Dumplings* Make a fine paste,
roll otit about a third of an inch in thickness and
cut in squares of four inches, putting in each a
gill of -Strawberries; fold over; pinch together
tightly and bake or steam them. Have a butter
and sugar sauce with some Lemon juice. C. Gent.
French Boiled Peas. Boil the Peas rapidly in
plenty t)f salted water. The moment they are
done, drain them and add a large tablespoonful
of butter to a <iuart of Peas, sprinkle a little
salt over the Peas and toss them. When the
butter is melted the Peas are done.^N. Y. Trib.
Green Pea Soup. Boil three pints of Green
Peas in two quarts of water till done. Drain
them, saving all the water in which they were
cooked, and press the Peas through a puree sieve,
then moisten them with the water. Heat the
soup till it boils. Serve with sippet of fresh bread.
Serving Strawberries. Some persons like
Strawberries sugared and sot away on ice a little
whilu before serving, and when they are not
very ripe or a little tart it is a good way; but
they do not look so pretty, and, unless all the
family like so, it is better to let each one add
cream and sugar according to taste.— Demorest.
Crystsllized Fruit. Take slices of (Grange or
clusters of (Jra(x^s, or any other fruit desired,
and dip them tirst in white of egg beaten to a
froth, and then in pulverized sugar. Lay a
sheet of paper in a pan ; sprea<i the sugared
fruit on it, set in a cool oven to dry, then keep
in a tool place. It is quickly done, and is a
pretty variety for the lunch table.
Strawberry Shortcake. Take one quart of
sifted fiour, pinch of salt, one large cup of sour
cream, half teaspoonful of soda, mix and roll
out like pastry, bake in two large cakes, take
out of the oven, split them, make four halves,
spread each half with butter, and place between
a thick layer of Strawberries and sugar, reserv-
ing the upper crust of one cake to cover the
other three. Then place in the hot oven for
five or ten minutes, and serving smoking hot.—
L. H dale., Missouri.
Cherry Preserves. Early Richmond will be
found best. Stcme the fruit, weigh, and allow
the same amount of sugar. Take half the sugar
and sprinkle over the fruit. Let stand an hour
or longer, then put over the fire in a porcelain
kettle and boil slowly for ten minutes. Then
skim out the Cherries, add the remaining sugar,
boil, skim and turn over the fruit. Cover and
keep in a cool place until the next day. Di'ain
off the syrup, boil, skim carefully, put in the
Cherries, boil for ten minutes and seal up in
small jars.— Kural New Yorker.
Preparing Lettuce. Have it well cleaned and
free from sand. First pick the head apart, wash
well and examine each leaf carefully, being sure
there are no bugs hidden in any part of it. Place
in dish in which it is served, putting the outside,
or large leaves, in first, and filling in with the
smaller ones, arranging it as near as possible like
I the head ere picked apart. Sprinkle the whole
lightly with cold water and set on the table.
Lettuce served in this way has an appetizing
appearance that is very inviting. There are
many ways of eating Lettuce, some using salt
and vinegar, others vinegar and sugar, and many
simply salt. As a garnish of green there are few
leaves will take the place of Lettuce, and in the
greater number of salads it forms an important
part. Plain lobster is much more tempting when
served in a Lettuce leal, than simply placed on a
dish alone, and even the plebeian hash takes on
an added lustre when served in this way. Truly,
fine surroundings add much to the appearance
of anything.— American Cultivator.
HOUSE PLANTS.
Azaleas may be repotted and moved out for the
summer. They wlU do best In a sheltered, shady pos-
ition.
BeiEonias of the tuberous-rooted varieties may be
planted out In warm, moist, half shady situations.
Propagate plants of the Rex sorts. If not already done.
Cacti when done bloomInK may be plunged in a
Warm, sunny border where they will summer well.
Callas to be given a rest of several months when done
flowering.
Chrysanthemums like plenty of food and moisture,
and plenty of sunshine. At all events, whether In pot
or bedded out, they should now be making a good
growth. With most classes of these flowers the flnal
pinching back should be done before the end of this
month.
Cinerarias, Calceolarias and similar plants may
now be started from seed for winter flowering. The
seeds are so fine that they do not bear covering nor
watering from overhead well. All such seeds may be
treated as follows: Place an Inverted thumb pot In the
bottom of a large pot. and fill up with coaise material
for drainage to reach clear above the thumb pot . Upon
this drainage is placed a layer of finely sifted soil, say
two inches deep. Arm this evenly, and sow the seed
upon this. A first watering is given by holding the
pot to half Its depth in a pail of water until the earth
Is thoroughly moistened from beneath. Over the top
of the pot place of cover of strong white paper, tying
It down under the brim of the pot; theu pour water on
the paper. This will soon cause a depression in the
center, and this must be kept filled with water, until
the seeds have germtnated.
General Directions- Most house plants are easiest
kept over summer liy plunging them In a suitable spot
out doors, up to their brims tn earth, sand or coal ashes.
If a small empty pot Is placed into the plunging ma-
terial down so far. that the pot with the plant, when
standing on the other, will be just the right depth,
this arrangement will prevent the roots from growing
out of the drainage hole, and angle worms from enter-
ing the pots. It will also Improve the drainage.
Hanging baskets, vases, etc., to be watered abund-
antly.
Hibiscus to be propagated from cuttings for next
year's bloom. Plants having flowered last winter may
now be taken out for the summer.
Lemons and Oranges to be treated like Azaleas.
Primroses- The double White to be kept In shade,
and given plenty of space.
Propagation of Tropa?olums and Heliotropes for
winter flowering, also of such other plants that may
be useful for winter decoration, including plants with
ornamental foliage, may still go on. An inverted glass
tumbler placed over especially choice cuttings aUfs in
rooting by providing desirable moisture.
LAWN AND FLOWER GARDEN.
Annuals of most kinds may still be sown. Thin
where needed, and transplant as deslretl.
Antirrhinums will bloom all the finer, If no seeds
are allowed to form during the summer. This really
applies to most flowering plants. Always remove the
fading bloom.
Bulbs when done flowering may be lifted as soon as
the leaves begin to wither. Place them in clumps in
a shady plane, with a little soil over their lower parts
to ensure perfect ripening.
Bedding Plants. Plantlngof Geranliuns, Verbenas,
Coleus, etc., is still in order.
Everlastings. Hellchrysums, Rhodanthes, etc.. If
sown at once, will give a good crop of flowers In time.
There Is usually a demand ot Christmas for such
flowers for decorations.
General. Where there are areas about the garden
that could be well adorned by pot plants, by taking
pains to arrange such tastefully in lines, circles or
otherwise, grading the plants aceordiug to size, the
1889.
POPULAR GARDENING.
201
t'ffeot will be tnipntved. The Him sliouM be to main-
lain neatness and attractive features in all parts of the
Krounds.
Hedges of all kinds should be sheared Just as the
season's growth begins to bardeo. This checks the
growth without Injury,
Hollyhocks. Look to proper thinning.
Layering mayb e done as stxin as strong young shoot
of perennials, Roses, Shrubs, etc., are formed.
Lawn. Mow frequently, but not so often In a dry
time as when the weather Is more favorable to growth.
Look out for seedUngsof weeds In the grass. Thistles.
Docks, etc.. are easily pulled while small and the soil
is moist. If done now. It will save much trouble in
the future.
Lilies and Tritomas when In bloom need an abuud
ance of water. Make a basin around each plant, and
All with wat«r several times during the flowering
season.
Mnlching over the roots will benefit Dahlia.«, Chrys-
antbemunis. Carnations. Lilies, Kuchlas, Rhododen-
drons, etc. First stir the soil around the plants, apply
the mulch and leave on for the whole summer.
Pansies. Sow seed for fall flowers.
Shrubs. The best time to prune shrubs that bloom
In spring and early summer, is when they are done
flowering. They have now a season of growth ahead
In which to provide flowering branches for another
year.
Supports. Provide Sweet Peas, Morning Glory and
all other climbers with support aa needed. Stake
Dahlias and Gladiolus, and tie them firmly t-o prevent
damage by sudden storms of wind and rain. Pinks
should also be tied to stakes.
Trumpet "Vine iBignonia rarfican-s) may be trained
to a weeping tree form. First stop the stem at proper
height, and afterwards the laterals.
Verbenas and other trailing bedding plants to be
pegged dowTi, Bring some of the vigorous young
branches dowTi to the earth, fixing them here by
wooden or metal hooks, or pegs. Many kinds will then
take root where pegged, and altogether give a great
increase of growth and bloom. This treatment can be
recommended for Verbenas, Petunias, Roses, Achy
ranthe?,Altemautheras,Lantana<. Clematis and almost
any kind perennials, tender or hardy.
Weeds need frequent attention. A strong, stift" knife
to cut the roots below the surface is useful.
PLANT CULTURE UNDER GLASS.
Achimenes to be given occasional doses of liquid
manure.
Azaleas, Lemons, and the most tender shrub.s to be
moved out doors for the summer Into partially shaded
places, as under trees with light foliage, or temporary
arbors made of laths or slats.
Bonvardias, Carnations and other winter-flowering
plants ts be pinched back as required.
General Directions . After the plants for out doors
have been moved from the greenhouse or conservatory
It should be thoroughly cleaned for the summer. What-
ever has to be done in the line of repairing and build-
ing should be attended to early, that all may 1>e in
proper shape by the time of occupancy next fall.
Orchids. Before the end of the month many kinds
will have finished their growth, and wlllneed a lighter
position than during the season of growth iu which to
mature. Provide the necessary heat and moisture for
those that are making still vigorous growth. Odonto-
glossums and some others requiring cool treatment,
must not be kept in a temperature higher than "Hf F.
Palms, Ficus, and other sub-tropical plants may
now be plunged to the brim out doors.
Primroses of all kinds, but especially the double
whlt«, to be provided with heavy shade overhead from
now until October.
Propagation. See directions imder House Plants.
Seed Sowing. See directions under House Plants.
Roses and other winter flowering plants to be re-
potted if needed, and kept plunged and well watered.
Stove Plants. Summer bloomers should be removed
to cooler quarters while in flower.
Shading the glass overhead with a wash made of
naptha mixed with white lead, to resemble thin milk,
or even with common whitewash, keeping windows
and ventilators open, dashing water about freely in
walks and under the stages, will make the greenhouse
an attractive and not uncomfortable place all through
the summer.
Pincliing Back, Wlnt«r blooming plants in pots or
bedded out, such as Carnations, Bonvardias, Heliotrope
Polnsettias, Stevlas, etc., should now in their early
growth be pinched freely to Induce shapely, well-
branched forms.
Grafts rert'utly set to be examined and superfluous
shoots tA> be removed.
Grapes. Vines set this spring should bear but a
single shoot, which Is to be kept tied up. Guard
against overbearing of older vines. Keep carefully
tied to trellis. Remove superfluous buds and shoots.
In localities subject to mildew and rot spray with cop-
per sohitions every ten days or two weeks.
Insects. For plant lice use strong Tobacco water or
kerosene emulsion, dipping the ends of small trees and
showering the larger ones. When holes are to be
noticed in the Currant and Gooseberry leaves, apply
White Hellebore. Fight the curcullo by Jarring or by
means of arsenical poisons. If caterpillars nests have
heretofore escaped notice, tear them down and trample
on the worms.
Sings on Cherries and Pears can be disposed of by
strewing air slacked lime over the leaves.
Strawberries. Apply a mulch of straw to the beds
to keep the fruit clean. Have boxes and crates In
readiness for marketing the crop. Engage your pickers
early. Keep beds free from weeds. Cut the runners
at the start If the hill system is practiced, and on newly
set plants for some weeks.
Thinning. Begin to thin Apples, Pears and Peaches;
it will give more valuable fruit, and probably as much
bulk, but certainly larger returns and greater satisfac-
tion.
applying a pinch of nitrate or some liquid manure to
each plant shortly after being set. Try to produce an
early growth of foliage, and you will get early fruit
and plenty of It.
FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD.
Blackberries and Raspberries keep well cultivated.
Pinch off the young canes when three feet high. Stak-
i ng and tying is a commendable pratlce.
Borers should now be hunted for. Gum exuding at
the root of Peach trees is a sure sigu of their presence.
Dig them out with a knife, or kill them with a piece of
wire.
Oorrants and Gooseberries. Trim as needed to
prevent excess of wood. Begin marketing the green
fruit.
VEGETABLE GARDEN.
Asparagus to be used freely until Peas begin to
come In. Then allow the tops to grow.
Beans. Plant field sorts by the 20th of the month.
All bush .sorts can now be planted, and for a succession
still later. Llmas now start quickly. Try the Bush
Lima Beans. Assist the pole varieties to take to pole
or trellis.
Beets to be sown for succession.
Cabbage. Plant the late varieties In good soil.guard-
ing against damage by cut worms. Strong caustic
lime-water applied to the soil around the roots and
stem win dispose of the maggot.
Cauliflower. Give the early planted ones clean and
thorough cultivation. Applications of nitrate of soda
or liquid manure will help them.
Celery plants may be set out for first early. For
maiu crop not until end of the month or any time in
July. Prepare the ground well, making it very rich.
White Plume and Grolden Self Blanching are the best
sorts for early use. Set in rows three feet apart, with
plants six inches apart in the row.
Carrot. Sow for succession. Use the hand wheel-
hoe freely in the beds.
Corn. Plant the sweet varieties at Intervals all
through this month for succession.
Cucumbers. Plant for main crop in open ground.
If any were started under glass, they should now go
out. Prepare the hills well by mixing a shovelful of
old compost, and perhaps some wood ashes with the
soil. Have them from three to five feet apart each
way, the early dwarf sorts (Early Russian, etc.) at the
former distance, the vigorous growers (Long Green,
etc.t at the latter distance. Guard against bug depre-
dations.
Kohl Rabi. Thin the earlier sowings to about six
inches apart. Sow for succession.
Egg Plants need rich and warm soil, and a warm
situation. Set the plants In rows at least two feet apart,
and eighteen Inches ai>art in the rows. Give clean
culture.
Insects. To drive off the striped bug, keep Cucum-
ber and other vines well covered with bone flour, or
put Tobacco dust tliickly around them; or keep them
covered with boxes or fine mosquito netting. Hunt up
and wash the black, ill-smelling Squash bug. Poison
Potato beetles with Paris greeu. Use strong lime
water for maggots, and Tobacco tea for the flea beetle.
For the Cabbage worm every grower should keep some
buhacb on hand, and dust it on the plants whenever
signs of worms can be noticed. This California insect
powder is very strong, and fully effective enough if
mixed w i th three or four times its bulk of flower or bone
meal. It can also be applied in a solution In water,
best by means of a force pump and spray nozzle.
Lettuce to be sown for succession where it Is to grow.
Thin the earlier sowing to six or eight Inches apart.
Cultivate often with the hand wheel-hoe.
Melons to be treated as directed for Cucumbers,
only wider planting will be advisable, except with such
varieties as Emerald Gem, which can be planted in
hills three or four feet apart each way. This is proba-
bly the highest-fiavored Melon now catalogued. Try
also Volga Water Melon.
Peas. Clean oii the ground as soon as the crop is
gathered, and plant with late Potatoes, Peppers, To-
matoes, or any other suitable crop.
Peppers to be treated as directed for Egg plant.
Squashes. Plant the bush sorts in hills four feet
ap>art, the running winter sorts In hills ten or twelve
feet apart each way, lea\*lng but two good plants in
each hill. Have the ground very rich, and cultivate
and hoe freely and thoroughly. Quick maturing crops,
such as Radishes, Lettuce, Kohl Rabi, early Potatoes,
etc., can be grown in the spaces between the hills.
Tomatoes for main crop to be set at once. Plant
deep, and If {possible, stimulate to prompt growth by
FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER
GLASS.
Cucumbers need plenty of water at this time, and
must not be neglected In this respect.
Grapes. The early vines, after fruiting, should be
given water more sparingly, and gradually brought to
a condition of rest. Expose the wood as much as pos-
sible to the sun and air. Give the vines ripening fruit
plenty of heat. The vines in fiower in the cold grapery
should now be given water rather sparingly, and the
temperature be allowed to go up pretty well towards
90* at noon. Thin the berries in the clusters liberally
when about the size of Peas. One bunch Is enough to
leave to each shoot, and this should be stepped at the
third leaf beyond the bunch. Tie up the shoots as the
weight of the fruit Increases.
Pineapples require an abundance of moisture in the
atmosphere to prevent exhaustion during the hot
weather now prevailing. Close the house early, syringe
and water the floor several times everj* day.
THE POULTRY YARD.
No Profit without Cleanliness. If " cleanliaess
is next to g-odliness," some of the people who
keep poultry will never get therel— Germantown
Telegraph.
Attend the Sick. It is dangerous at all times,
and especially in hot weather, to have sick birds
running with the flock. Kill them or put them
in the hospital at once.— F. J.
Forcible WMtewasMng. The modem method
of whitewashing poultry houses is to make the
wash thin, strain it and throw it on with a hand
force pump. Have you tried it?
Good Plan for CMcks. One of the best places
we know of at this season for a brood of chicks
is on the edge of a Corn field. They have loose
earth, shade and security from hawlis.— F.Jour'l.
Feed Early and Often. Little chicks should
be fed at lc?ast four times a day, and five times is
better. Keep them eating and growiut> all the
time. Whole Wheat is one of the best foods for
chicks. They learn to eat it when they are only
a day or two old.
The Nests. Kerosene must never be used in
the nest boxes. It is of that penetrating nature
that it will de^^troy the vitality of eggs at once,
and it will impart an unpleasant flavor to them
when used as food. The hay in the nests should
be changed at least once a month and the nest
boxes thoroughly cleansed. The contents should
be burned, so that everything may be destroyed.
—Maryland Farmer.
Overflowing Duck Fountain. A ten-gallon
keg with a bung projecting an inch and pierced
with a three-eights inch hole, filled with water
and inverted properly in a trough, will give 100
ducks a chance to wet their whistles a couple of
days for one filliug. lie sure the keg is water
tight; if it can be placed in the shade it will be
surer not to leak and the ducks will the more
appreciate their fountain.— F. & H.
Poultry in Conflnement. These need extra
care, and regular attendance. Grow Lettuce
and Spinach to supply them with green stuflF,
and give this regularly. Also give fresh cut
Clover, or the mowings of the lawn. Kenew the
water frequently. Keep the vessel sweet by
washing from time to time with carbolized water.
Spade a small part of the yard over every day.
Sprinkle dry coal ashes, lime, etc., over the whole
surface of the yard once a week. Supply the
needed animal food, broken bone, etc.
The Incubator. The person who makes poul-
try raising his exclusive business, raises thou-
sands of chickens annually and makes a specialty
of early chickens for market— he is the one to
whom the incubator is mdispensable. It will
pay him to make a thorough study of it, which
is necessary to insure success with them. The
poultryraan who can count lessthan 100 chickens
and makes his little i>oultry venture secondary to
some larger occupation, has no time to fool with
an incubator and had best stick to the hen.— N.E.
Size of Ducks and Turkeys. Within a dozen
years our ducks and turkeys have been increased
in size very largely. Where formerly we had
the yearling ducks in our markets that drew
eight pounds to the pair fattened, we now find
them commonly weighing twelve pounds or
more per couple at Christmas or New Year's.
And our turkeys of to-day exceed the weight of
those bred fifteen years ago by more than half
ui.ion the average, especially where the bronze
pol)blers have been introduced among the com-
mon domestic ttirkey hens.
Indispensable Bequisites. Among these are
cleanliness, an occasional coat of whitewash to
the whole interior of the poultry houses, the
free use of kerosene on the roosts, and some
dry absorbent under the roosts, also of bubach
I fresh insect powder) on the setting hens to keep
them and the chicks free from bee. Fresh water
should always be within reach of the fowls, and
the vessels so arranged that none can get into it
with the feet. A drop of carbolic acid, or a small
piece of copperas put into the drinking water
will tend to prevent cholera, gapes, etc.~G. R.
202
POPULAR GARDENING.
June,
.At«P
.MVMfi%
Correspondents art uryeii to anticipate the season in pre
aenting questions. To ask. for instance, on April 16 or 20
what Peas had best be aoten, could brina no answer in
the May issue, and none before June, trhen the answer
would be unseasonable. Questions received before the 12rft
of any month stand a good chance of being ansipered m the
next paper. Sot more than three questions should be sent
at one time. Answers to questions bearing on tne com-
parative tnlJte of impiements. etc.. offered by different
dealers must notbe expected. Neither can we promise to
comply ttriih tne request sometimes made to "please anstrer
by mail." Inquiries appearing imthont name belong to the
name next following .
Replies to Inquiries are earnestly requested from our
loeaders. In answi^ring such give the number, your
reality and name, the latter not for publication, uniehS
you desire. Write only on one side of the paper.
1,":^. Apple Pomace as Manure. Can Pomaee tbree
or four yearw old, be safely applied for Giapea?
What is Its fertilizing value ?— Friend.
I,8:i3. Plum Tree Suckers. Will they bear fruit?
1.h:k. Buddine or Grafting for Plums. What is
preferable f Will It do to use suc-kers from old trees
for stock ? SuBscRiBKR, Bainbridge, O.
1.834. Grape Seedlings. How are they started from
seed, and managed generally ?
1.835. Moore's Diamond Grape. Is It of better
quality than Niagara, and hardier in bud and cane ?
Has it retlexed stamens?— J. W . K., Jones Mills, Pa.
1,831). Soil for Bulb Culture. Is our deep heavy
prairie .soil goo<l if mixed with sand? J. W. S., III.
1,8.37. Langshan Eggs. Where can I get some for
hatching purpose.^? Mks. W.H. H.
1,8:W. Buhach Insect Powder. Where can It be
had at the east? Merui.oi.
1,88S. Crops among Fruit. Have but little land.
What ciups among Grapes, bush fruits, and In the
young orchard can be grown tt) best advantage?
1.840. Cheap Greenhouse. Please give plan of
greenhou.'*e 10x;iO to be used for propagating. Mercury
rarely goes below 35 degrees Fah. Will cloth answer
for roof ?
1.841. Tariff on Seeds. What Import duty is there
on garden and flower seeds ?— D. M. D.
1.842. Cactus Ouliure. Will the removal of the
young plants .springing up around the parent plants
affect the health or bloonilng capacity of the latter?—
A. J. G., Mabt'rly, Mo.
1.543. Opium Peppy. Can opium production be
mode a Ilnancial success here? How Is the plant grown,
and the opium gathered? Mrs. A. J. B., Nerada.
1.544. Rooting Carnations. My Cuttings nearly all
damp off a few days after being put In. What Is the
trouble?— R. A. C, Midland.
1,*545. Borer Mixture. Will the following: one
quart of soft soap, one pint of Pine tar, and one pound
of .sulphur be effective as a w^ash or paint ?
l.^m. Moon Influence. Should trees be pruned In
the light or dark of the moon?— G. W. P., Ills.
1,847 Cabbage Worm. Can you tell of a sure remedy?
-E. C.Sub.
1.848. BloodManure for Roses. How should blood as
prepared by English Rose growers, be used for best
effect on Roses?— A. B., Chester, Pa.
1.849. Nitrate of Soda. Is this the same as nitrate
of potash? The soda Is not known in our drug stores.
—J. E. R., Mass.
1,H50. Names of Flowers. Please tell the new
names for the old flowers we used to callas follows ;
•' Eglantine," a single, climbing, late-flowering Rose.
" Botton " Roses, probably one of the Pofyantha
family, crimson red; " Golden Buttons," something like
a golden yellow Feverfew, with long stems and hardy?
A. T. D.. Kans.
1.851. Kainit for Trees and Potatoes. How shall I
apply it?-B. A. TJ., Del.
1.852. Grape Geranium. What is Its botanical name?
The large Grape-like leaves are green on top, red under-
neath. Bloom pink, similar to Begonia.— Mrs. M. E. J.,
Texas.
1,^53. Hollyhock Blight. Lost my plantt last year,
by a disease attacking the leaves. What Is it and how
cured?- SUBSCRIBER, A'f »? Jersey.
1.854. Book on Orchids. Is there a cheap practical
work on care and treatment of Orchids?— Mrs. J. A. C.
Titus>-iltc, Pa.
1.855. Poultry Book. Is there one treating on rais-
ing of poultry on a large scale tor market?— D. C. .4/-
toona. Pa.
1.856. Poisoning Sparrows. How best done?— W.
a. T., Mich.
1.857. Slug Shot. Is this as sure a remedy for the
Potato bug as Paris Green?— A. R. T., Pennsylvania.
1858. Portable Sprayer. Where can I get one at a
reasonable price ? T. F. S. W, Va.
18,59. Bark Bursting. Bark on Plum trees bursted
from branches to ground. How prevented and cured ?
Wm. F. Ohio.
1960. Cinerarias. How treated for bloom in Febru-
ary or March?
1861. Spireas. How treated for bloom by April In
greenhouse?
1862. Carnations for Winter Bloom. What soil,
temperature and conditions of moisture are required
In greenhouse culture? W. B. M'C, Pa.
1.86:1. Bisulphate of Lime. What Is the practical
experience of those who have u.ied It as deoderlzer
and antiseptic?- F. N. M., Pa.
l,'it;4. Cherry Trees. W'lien should seed be snwn
for stock, and what kind la best? How and when
budded or grafted?— \V. T. A., Greemnlle, Pa.
l.St^'y. Remedy for Plant Lice. WTiat Is the recipe
for flsh-oil soap recommended for plant lice?— A. B. S.,
Ga.
l.yiifi. Japan Chestnut. Can this be recommended
as a crop for prottt?— iNyiisiTivE, Ohio.
l,xt'u. Clearing Waste Pipes. Sink drain frequently
stoppetl up with greasy matter. How can It be cleared
and kept cleared the easiest way?— R. S. T., L. I.
l,8fis. Hot-bed Heating. How should hot-beds be
arranged if lo be heated with hot water pIpes^—N.S.F.,
Wi-st-onsin.
l.w.i. Glazed Flower Pots. Can these be reconi-
meiKh'd for general use?— S. D., Ciueinnati, O.
\.^'>iK Poinsettia in Tree Form. Can It be thus
grown with advantage?— Carlos, New England.
1S71. Cherry Stock. What Is the difference between
Mazzard and Mahaleh stock.
18;2. Mahaleb Sprouts, Will the Mahaleb produce
sprouts from the roots when wounded.— H. S., Ohio.
1^7:i. Asparagus Bed. How prepared to insure sue
cess ?— W. L. K., Pa.
1871. Mimulus Oulture. What are the most favor
able conditions?
1875. Flowering Begonias. How shall they be
treated In summer after winter booming?— W. S. J. •
Chiicago.
1876. Japan Honeysuckle. What makes my LonI
cero Halleana wilt and die down to the ground after
living all winter?
1877. Blackberry Suckers. How can I prevent plants
from producing suckers, and how can suckers be
kIlled?-E. P. C, Mass.
REPLIES TO INQUIRIES.
1.71^)7. Plugging Trees for Disease. A corres-
pomlentof C.Gentleman voices our own views in
the following : The probabilities are unfavorable
to the conclusion that the sulphate of copper or
sulphur, or uails, or any other substance, intro-
duced into a hole in the trunk of the tree, can
cure *' die-back "or rusty fruit in Orange trees,
or remedy sickliness in other trees. It is a well
authenticated fact that copper is taken up by
plants to whose roots its soluble salts have
access, and Is there to be found by chemical
tests in the stems and wood. It is equally well-
established that very minute quantities of cop-
per are thus absorbed without apparent detri-
ment or benefit to trees, but that when some-
what larger, though still small, quantities of
copper are absorbed, plants and trees of various
sorts, wild and cultivated, are destroyed. It is
scarcely probable that sulphate of copper can
accumulate sufficiently in the juices or tissues of
a plant to kill fungi or other parasities, without
Injuring the plant itself. It is rather likely that
sulphate of copper, once within the plant,
whether at the root-tips or in the stem, will as it
diffuses, yield insoluble copper compounds with
the oxalic, tartaric, malic, citric, tannic and
other acids, or with the albuminoids, some of
which it must encounter ; so that, before it can
reach the young fruit-bearing branches, It will
have effectually killed the plant. That sulphur
or iron nails can have any effect, either invigora-
ting to the plant or destructive to Its enemies, is,
in my opinion, not probable. Iron, although
essential to the life of trees and agricultui-al
plants, is, so far as we now know, abundantly
supplied by every cultivable soil, and can scarce-
ly fail to be present in surplus in the juices and
organs of plants. Nevertheless, a series of care-
fully conducted comparative trials is called tor,
to settle this question, and some experiment
stati<m having suitable resources may well un-
dertake the investigation.
1,754. Iron for Fruit Trees. We greatly doubt
that iron shavings, or any other iron refuse, will
be of any especial benefit to fruit trees. Yet
this should be settled by experiment. It is a
well-known fact that sulphate of iron (copperas)
although its two elements— sulphuric acid and
iron— are abundantly supplied in most soils, and
hardly considered to be essential substances of
plant food, nevertheless often has a very de-
cided beneficial effect on many crops. We have
been inclined to give the credit mostly to the
mere dissolving infiuencc of the sulphuric acid
and its property as a spore killer ; but it is not-
impossible that the iron may have something to
do with it. One of our cnrrcspiindeiits. J. laitner
Bowers of Virginia, reciminuMnicil the following
treatment for barren Plum trees: "Clean away
the earth from around the body or root of the
trees, and get some iron filing, or fine bits of iron,
say one quart to each tree, and put it next to
roots, say, within a radius of three feet having
the tree for center. Then the trees will hold
their fruit. If the filings or turnings can not be
procured, fill the roots with six a. —nails. Do
not be afraid to drive them in any part of tree
under ground, but do not put above ground
you may ruin a good axe in after years ; put in
the nails when your trees ai*e in full bluom."
We are not prepared to endorse this advice. See
also reply to No. 1,71)7.
I,s4ii. Moon Influence. It sh«nild hardly be
necessary to say, that the great infiuence of the
moon on vegetation and many other things is all
moonshine. It is a wonder, that in our enlight-
ened age, so many otherwise intelligent people
will continue to watch the moon phases, and to
use great care to set trees, or sow seeds, or kill
hogs, etc., ** just when the moon is right.'^ This,
of course, is merely a little remnant of old-time
superstition, as is the idea that a tree can be
killed stone-ilead at once by striking an axe into
it at a certain day of the year.— G. K.
1,85:3. Hollyhock Blight. The disea.se which
has affected your |>lants last season, was prob-
ably the Hollyhock blight, of which Prof. Byron
D. Halstead writes to Garden and Forest as fol-
lows : Last year, in and around New Brunswick,
it was almost impossible to find a single healthy
Hollyhock among the thousands of plants. At
first the lower leaves began to exhibit large cir-
cular brown patches, sometimes bounded upon
the side toward the centre of the leaf by the
veins, thus giving an angular outline. Soon
after the largest leaves of all suffered and fell,
and by the middle of August whole rows of the
plants exhibited leafless stems. Few gardeners
now have any plants, but one enterprising prop-
agator has a long row of fair-sized seedlings in
pots. When I first saw these seedlings they were
—a few hundred of them— in a box xuider sash,
and so badly infected with the blight that there
seenied :it first to be no hope for them. Perhaps
one plant in five was saved and pricked out in a
fresh box: and the following remedy was applied
almost daily : Three ounces of carbonate of
copper were dissolved in a quart of standard
ammonia, and afterwards diluted to twenty-two
gallons with water At the same time the older
leaves which developed the spots were removed
and burned, until a comparatively healthy con-
dition has been reached. The disease is due to
a Cercospora and probably (\ fl//?ui/7ia. Sacc, a
species which in its various forms grows upon
the common MallowCMaira rofjuif/i/o^'a ', Velvet-
leaf (yl/x/fi/o/M i'icf«Hrti^tand a species of Callirhoe.
l,85ti. Poisoning the English Sparrow. A re-
cent Report of the Department of Agriculture
contains the following recipe: Dissolve an ounce
of arseniate of soda in a pint of warm water;
pour this upon as much wheat as it will cover
(in a vessel to prevent evaporation), and soak
twenty-four hours Dry the wheat so prepared
and it is ready for use. The sparrow should be
baited for several days previously with good
wheat, and the poisoned wheat substituted at
the same phire and time. The utmost care must
be used in administering poison of any kind to
sparrows, and any pei-son or animal eating the
dead sparrows are liable to be fatally poisoned.
1,849. Nitrate of Soda. This is also known
under the names of Chili saltpeter, or cubic salt-
peter, and contains 16 or 17 per cent of nitrogen.
Nitrate of potash is the common saltpeter or
nitre of our drug stores. The latter is much too
costly for general manurial purposes. People
should understand that potash salts and nitrate
of soda are fertilizers, and should not be looked
for in the drug stores, not tmly because the aver-
age druggist knows notlnng of these fertilizing
materials, an<l if he did. people could not afford
to buy of trades-people used to make charges
hundreds of per cent in advance of the original
cost. The large fertilizer men are the ones to
look to for a supply of all plant foods.— G. R.
l,82t). Protecting Tree Boses from Sun Scald.
Anything that will provide shade for the exposed
stems of the Tree Roses, must necessarily be a
prevention of sun scald. Whether wrapping
the stems lightly in Sphagnum Moss would
answer this purpose without doing barm other-
wise or not is a question to be settled by trial.
F^ndoubtedly a shade or screen made of lathes
or similar nuiterial, surrounding the stem, would
be as good as anything.~G. K.
1,845. Borer Mixture. The borer, when inside
the body of a tree, can hardly be reached by out-
side washes. The use of a sharp knife, of a
piece of wire or a limber twig will have to be
resorted to. The eggs are deposited in early
summer. Rubbing the trunk and main branches
of the trees with soft soap pure and simple in
early June, and repeating this several times
until middle of July, is perhaps as effective a
remedy as any other. Prof. Cook says, if he can
make but one application, he uses a mixture of
carbolic acid and soft soap made as follows: One
quart of soft soap to two gallons of water heat-
ed to the boiling point, when one pint of crude
carbolic acid is added, stirring the solution well
at the same time. With this, and ungloved
hands, and uncovered arms, I, by use of a cloth,
rub the whole trunk and larger limbs of the tree,
using care not to sprinkle the foliase. Incase
the acid is very strong it might kill the foliage.
This is a]tpUod to the trees two weeks after the
blossoms fall. This undoubtedly is a better and
safer wash than the mixture of soft soap. Pine
tur and sulphur suggested by the inquirer.— G.U.
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
20-
l.sn. Apple Pom&ce as Manure. Old Apple
pomace may safely be applied to land for al-
most any erop in moderate quantities to be
plowed under, or otherwise thoroiijirlily mixed
with the soil. If fresh anil in an active state
of acid fermentation, it mi^ht be advisable to
compost and sweeten it with lime before it is
applied. We are not aware that an analysis of
Apple pomace has ever been made or published.
This is sure, however, that the original stores of
mineral elements of plant food contained in the
Apples are almost wholly left in the pomace,
and also part of the nitrogen, so there can be no
question that this material is worth something.
even if but little, as a fertilizer. On the other
hand, as usually left lying- about near cider mills.
etc., it is usually offensive to both si^ht and
smell, and a nuisance generally, and it would
pay to apply it to the land as suggested if for no
other reason than to get rid of it. Fresh Apple
pomace, as should yet be stated, has also a con-
siderable value as food for horses, cattle, hogs
and sheep: but if in acid fermentation, should
be given with caution.— G. H.
],TW. Low Land for Celery and Onions, From
Prof. E. S. Goff's reply to a similar inquiry in
■Western farmer, we extract the following trust-
worthy information : The drainage should be
such that the water level of the soil is not less
than two and a half to three feet below the sur-
face. Otherwise, success in growing Onions or
Celery will be wholly dependent upon a dry sea-
son. The preparation wiU consist in applying a
very liberal dressing of well-rotted manure, and
breaking up the sod as soon as the ground is suffl-
cientlj' dry in spring, or during the summer.
Onions and Celery require abundant manuring,
even on new land, and without this, it will bo
bardl}' worth while to attempt their culture.
Sixty two-horse loads per acre will make a good
beginning. Any barnyard or stable manure that
is well-decayed will answer. Kor the first plow-
ing, the furrow need be only Just deep enough
to invert the sod and manure, cutting wide '
enough so the sod will lay flat, without the edges
overlapping. Shallow plowing will hasten the
decomposition of the sod, and If the furrows do
not overlap, the harrow will be less likely to tear
up. Harrow two or three times in the direction
of the plowing: then it the surface is sufficiently
loosened, cross-harrow the furrows until the
crevices are all filled, and the surface is well
leveled. If the sod is very tough so that the
plowing could not be well done, a heavy roller
used tjefore the harrowing will tend to prevent
tearing it up. The ground may now be left until
the succeeding spring. The warm weather of
the summer and autumn will cause the sod to
decay and the freezing of winter will disinte-
grate whatever clods may have escaped being
crumbled by the harrow. If there was any de-
ficiency in first manuring it may be made up
during the winter, and another sixty loads may-
be added with benefit. The fact cannot be too
strongly emphasized that the crops in question
can do their best only with the most liberal
manuring. There need be no fear of over-
fertilizing.
1.85S Portable Sprayer. We know of no
perfect portable spraying apparatus put on the
market, except the Eureka, made by Adam
Weaber and Son of Vineland, which costs some-
thing over 830 each. To people of a little
mechanical skill and inclination the description
of a home made sprayer given by Prof. R. Thax-
Hume Made Portable Sprayer.
ter, in a recent Bulletin of the Connecticut Ex-
periment Station (New Haven), and the accom-
panying illustration of same reproduced from
same source, may be of interest and help. The
machine consists of an ordinary small copper
wash boiler. The hose of a force pump (hydro-
nette pattern 1 enters the water as shown, e repre-
senting a short collar of tin through which the
hose is pushed. These pumps do not throw a
continuous spray, and so a piece of five-eight-
inch heavy rubber tubing h is fastened to a Ver-
morel nozzle a at one end x and the regular
pump nozzle d at the other, by winding it tightly
with small copper wire. The two nozzles a and d
are then connected by two heavy copper wires c
fastened by winding once around each nozzle.
The following prices are quoted in the IJvilletin,
for articles sold in Hartford and New Haven :
sulphate of copper from 6J^ to 10 cents jier lb.,
according to the amount sold ; ammonia from
8 to 10 cents: carbonate of copper 75 cents per
lb. Rubber tubing 18 cents per foot; wash
boilers §3.25: force pump Si.OO.
KTM. Tomato Forcing Honae. The three
requisites of a good Tomato house are, 1, the
maximum amount of light ; 2, an abundance of
heat; 3, a large volume of air. In other words,
in forcing Tomatoes a large house is superior to a
smaller one Twenty feet is a good width, and
the length may be BO or 70. A hip-span roof is
I best— the long slope facing the south. Use large
glass: 12x11) being good size; though some pre-
fer 14x24. For cheap and satisfactory walls, set
posts six feet apart; line, inside and
out, with tari-ed paper, and then ceil
with the best flooring. (For various
styles of greenhouse walls see Bulletin
No. 7,Minnesota Experiment Station.)
Kor tables, make the necessary sup-
ports of 2x4 stuff, and then use three-
inch strips. This allows the escape
of heat into the room and at the same
time gives more bottom heat than if
wide boards were used. The idea in
having the tables of this style, is to *^
grow the plants in 18-inch boxes, four
plants in a box. I prefer this method
to any other yet tried. Bottom heat
is not essential, but desirable. Within
reasonable limits, increased earllness
of crop is a very important item in
growing Tomatoes for profit. The
accompanying diagram representing a cross-sec-
tion of a house twenty feet wide, shows the ar-
rangement of tables and piping. The tables are all
heated by return pipes. The steam enters the
room ats, and runs to the full length of the build-
ing, in one large pipe. It is then distributed as
desired. Each pipe, or at most each two pipes,
should be controlled by valves so that as many
or as few as desired may be used. I prefer
ventilators springing at the ridge as shown in
diagram.— W. Munson, Cornell University.
1,851. Kainit for Trees and Potatoes. This
I material can bo applied for the crops named
directly to the soil, without mi.\ing with any
other substance. For tree and bush fruits it can
hardly be used too liberally. Apply in fall or
early -winter if possible, but do not hesitate to
■ put it on for the crops named at any other time
of the year, it not done before For Potatoes
we would always apply it in the fall or early
winter previous to planting, using it at the rate
of 300 to 800 pounds per acre, perhaps even more.
1,848. Cabbage Worm. In buhach we have a
never-failing remedy for this pest. For econo-
my's sake, the pure powder may be mixed with
three or four times its bulk of flour, bone meal,
or other dusty substance, and blown or sifted on
the infested plants, or it may be applied In spray
form, diluted with water. It is sure death to all
the worms it touches.
1,791. Crops in Shade. Some of the bush fruits.
Blackberries and Raspberries, Currants, Goose-
berries and Strawberries also might be grown in
a half-shady situation, as for instance in a young
orchard. Further south we would prefer the
north side of a building or wall for Currants,
Gooseberries and RaspbeiTies to a more open
location. Some tree fruits might also flourish on
the north or west side of buildings, walls, fences,
or a piece of woods. The vegetable garden
should be exposed fully to the
sun, although some crops— Cab-
bages, Beans, Potatoes, Peas,
Beets, and many others may be
grown quite readily in the shade
of a young orchard. Success
here hinges chieflyon the supply
of plant food in the soU. Double
cropping also requires double
manuring. None of our common
vegetable crops, however, will
thrive in absolute shade. There
are a great many flowers and
shrubs which succeed admirably
in shady places, among them all those whose
home is in the wild woods, many of the bulbs.
Snowdrops, Lily of the Valley, etc. The Pansy
is one of our chief flowers for slightly shaded
situations, and there is also a proper place
for the Wall Flower. The Aquilegia cana-
densis (our native Columbine) also does well in
such places, and so will the little evergreen plant
popularly known as Wintergreen or Teaberry
iGaultheria procu»ibcJi.i). In fact we might name
a large number more of our native plants, which
are inhabitants of cool, damp woods of the north,
and well suited to be grown in shade and moist-
ure.- W.
1,825. Annuals for Shady Position. Mr. Joseph
Harris in American Garden recommends the tall-
growing Nasturtium if it is only the soil that is
shaded; the plants will do well if they can run up
till they reach the sunshine, at any time before
noon. The Nasturtium thrives well in partial
shade. Do not be sparing of seed, but thin out
the plants before they begin to crowd, leaving
them ultimatelyabout six inches apart in the row.
1,73«. Marianna Plum from Cuttings. How
to grow the above was told by me in Popui^r
Gardening some time since. On setting out my
cuttings of this variety I found no difference in
those set in the fall upright, or with the
tops down, except that those inverted had
grown too much, and the buds that were started
had a little sand in them, which is objectionable.
Hereafter they will be tied in bundles of fifty or
one hundred, set upright, and the tops about two
Tomato Forcing Hmtse.
inches under ground when leveled off. And if I
have the time to get the ground in order and set
them, they will be put in where they are to
grow in the fall. The cuttings need not be more
than five inches long, cut off sloping above the
bud, set in the ground upright, and press the
earth firmly around them. Then before the
ground commences to freeze cover over with
some litter to prevent their being heaved out.
Wood the size of a Rye straw put in in this way
will soon make splendid stocks for budding.
1 have touched upon this subject more particu-
larly because I am satisfied it is thecoming foun-
dation tor our Plums, Apricots and likely for
Peach, as it is a very strong grower. I have trees
of various Plums worked on it, and at the same
time same varieties on Peach stocks, and the ad-
vantage is greatly in favor of the Marianna. In
my orchard are several varieties that I bought as
root grafts, that were grown two years in the
nui-sery and then set out in the orchard. They
have now been four years there, and the suckers
are coming up all around them for ten feet from
the base of the trees. One tree of Golden Beauty
took root from the graft, and it also is sending
up suckers around the tree. This suckering may
be well enough in old times with a good variety
and on its own basis. But now, when grafting
and budding are understood by so many fruit
growers, the suckering becomes a nuisance. 1
nave Wild Goose trees that were budded on Peach
by myself, that have started on their own hook
and are sending out suckers all around. This
will answer a question for a subscriber who asks
how these young trees coming up under his Wild
Goose Plum trees when he knew that the original
stock was Peach, and the}' are not seedlings either
he says. I doubt whether we have a native stock
here that will not sucker, particularly if the
roots are wounded in the least, either by the
plow or hand implements. And now I am coming
to the main point. On my grounds are Marianna
trees, six and eight years old, and work done in
ground that would induce them to sucker if they
ad a tendency to do so, but there is not a sight
of a sucker under any of them.— Samuel Miller,
Montgomery Co., Mo.
1,865. Bemedy for Plant Lice. Prof. Jno. B.
Smith before the New Jersey State Horticultural
Society at last meeting, gave the following re-
cipe: "Hirsch's crystal potash lye, one pound
fish oil, three pints; soft water, three gallons.
Dissolve the lye in the water, and when brought
to a boil add the oU. It should boil about two
hours, and, when done, be filled up to make good
the loss by evaporation. When cold, it can be
cut into cakes. It is said to be effective at the
rate of one pound of the soap to eight gallons of
water and spreads well over the plants. I should
strongly recommend a trial of this mixture,
which has the endorsement of Mr. Atwood, the
Vice-Director of the Virginia Station. It has
been tested very extensively by him and found
very satisfactory. It is cheap— the suds costing
about twelve cents per one hundred gallons.
1,867. Cleaning Waste Pipes. The cause of
the trouble usually is the grease contained In the
slops and dishwater. This being liquid while the
water is hot, solidifies on coming in contact with
the colder surroundings, and soon entirely clogs
up the drain. The proper remedy is application
of strong lye, which unites with the grease form-
ing soft soap, and this carries it away in the next
rush of liquid. The Sanitary Era gi\-es these
directions: Just before retiring at night pour
into the clogged pipe enough liquid soda lye to
fill the " trap " or bent part of the pipe. Be sure
that no water runs in it until the next morning.
During the night the lye will convert all the
offal into soft soap, and the first current of water
in the morning will wash it away and clear the
pipe clean as new.
204
POPULAR GARDENING.
June,
1,803. Household Pests. Good insect powder
is yet the best and most convenient remedy for
roaches, cloth moths, etc., that has ever been
recommended. In one of the bulletins issued by
the Di\-ision of entomology. Department of Ag-
riculture. Prof. C. V. Hiley says: " In the lati-
tude of Washington and further south the croton
bug eats everything that contains paste, and
consequently wall paper, photographs, and es-
pecially certain kinds of cloth book-bindings,
suffer severely from their attacks. Without con-
demning other useful measures or remedies like
t)orax, I would repeat here that in the free and
persistant use of California buhach orsome other
tiesh and reliable brand of pyrethrum or Persian
insect powder we have most satisfactory means
of dealing with this and other roaches. Just be-
fore nighttall go into the infested rooms and
puff it into all the crevices, under baseboards,
into the drawei-s and cracks (if old furniture— in
fact, wherever there is a crack and in the morn-
ing the floor will be covered with dead and dymg
or demoralized and paralyzed roaches, which
may easily be swept up or otherwise collected
and burned. With cleanliness and persistency in
these methods the pest may be substantially
driven out of a house, and should never be
allowed to get full possession by immigrants
from without." This insect powder is also sure
death to bed-bugs, and if thoroughly and persist-
ently applied in same way as Prof. Kiley recom-
mends for roaches, will soon clear a house en-
tirely of the pest, no matter how badly infested.
Ants are easilv managed by poisoning or baiting.
Paris green is effective. Mix a little of it in thm
syrup or molasses and place where ants, but
nothing else, can get at it. Or moisten a sponge
with sweetened water, place where near the
ants' haunts, and occasionally pick up and throw
into boiling water. Then bait and reset the trap.
— W.
1,869. Glazed Flower Pots. A correspondent
of one of our English exchanges speaks about
this subject as follows: At one time it was the
general opinion that pots to be suitable for plant
cultivation must be porous, but this opinion pre-
vailed apparently without any reason, or was
not formed from experience, and if so, the sooner
gardeners' minds are disabused of the notion the
better. In windows we often see plants in all
sorts of vessels, and taking into consideration
the adverse circumstances under which the plants
are placed, most of them show signs of rude
health. This proves that porosity is not of such
moment in the vessels for potting in as is gen-
erally supposed. Air in sufficient quantity for
the roots can surely find its way tnrough the
surface of the soil, and it cannot be required all
down the sides of the pots. If these were glazed
how very much easier it would be to keep them
clean, and what a time longer they would last,
as glazing strengthens considerably, and if the
posts cost a little more at first start, there would
be a considerable saving in the end. not only in
the durability, but in labor of washing, etc.
1,7»4. Chestnuts. These are propagated by
cuttings in .\ugust, the young plants being
potted off when rooted, and re-potted as fre-
quently as the roots reach the sides of the pots.
They should be pinched back early in January
to cause a bushy growth.— W.
1,S71. Cherry Stock. Budding is by far more
successful than grafting, and is done in Mazzard
or Morello stock in August, or on Mahaleb in
September. To get the stock, sow the seed of
either of the above in drills in the fall, covering
one inch, or put the seed of Mazzard in single
rows six inches apart, and then they will be fit to
bud the first season. Mehalebs, must be two
years before they.get large enough. If not suit-
able to sow in the fall, mix seeds with sand and
expose to the weather all winter, and sow or
plant very early in the spring. Suckers will
answer if no seedlings can be got, but are objec-
tionable, because they will be sure to sucker
again. Let them stand in the nursery, where
they grew, no putting in cellar is necessary.
Some root graft the Cherry same as Apple, but
I don't consider it practicable.— S. Miller, Jfo.
1,841. Tariff on Seeds. The Government exacts
an import tax of 50 per cent ad vaiorcm on most
garden and flower seeds.
1,837. Black Langshan Kggs. Write to Mrs.
C. M. Kelley, Newark, N. J., or P. H. Jacobs,
Hammonton, N. J.
1,793. Insects on Home Eose. The pests no
doubt are some specimen of aphis or plant louse
and which would yield to free syringing with
water, or dusting the plants with tobacco, or
washing with tobacco water of the color of tea.
—A. H. E.
1.804. Bose Leaf Hopper, See article on Rose
culture elsewhere in thLs issue.
1.805. Shade for Oooseberries. The American,
like foreign sorts, will do well enough in half-
shady situation, but at the north they also suc-
ceed In full exposure to the suu. Which is more
than can be said of the English sorts.— (J. H.
1,811. Cypripedium Spectabile, Site for. This
superb species of native Orchid Is usually found
growing in swamjis, hence its wants may best he
met byproviding a similar position for it.-A.H. E.
1,842. Cactus Culture. Your plant is evidently
an Echinopsis— sometimes called Pope's Head,
but why, we cannot understand. They make
young offsets freely, and in order to induce your
plant to bloom these offsets should be removed
early in the spring. They may be put several
toge"ther in a pot filled with sandy soil, and will
grow quite rapidly. The flowers of many of the
Echinopsis are very beautiful. One on our table
now measures 13 inches in length, five inch across
the petals. Color delicate pink.— A. Blanc.
1,848. Blood Manure for Boses. The item given
in Philadelphia Record is as foUews: English
Rose growers are using blood manure for their
Tines with great success. They take sixteen
pounds of blood, and as soon as it begins to putrify
pour on it four ounces of muriatic acid and four
ounces of proto-sulphate of iron, previously
mixed, which turns the blood into a dark, dry
powder that will keep for a long time. We have
no practical experience with this preparation but
undoubtedly it will be a good manure, rich in
nitrogen for Roses and other flowiring plants.
We would be glad to have the o]iinion of station
chemists. We would apply a light sprinkling of
it to the surface of the soil around the plants, or
use in weak solution.
Orchids are not now very expensive. It
is true some species ot great rarity and ex-
traordinary beauty command very high
prices. But the average amateur may form
a beautiful and intensely interesting collec-
tion for a very moderate outlay. A knowl-
edge of the cultural requirements of these
A Rack for Carrying Plants.
Our correspondent L. B. Pierce, of Sum-
mit County, Ohio, is a practical horticultur-
ist who believes in employing conveniences
in his work wherever he can. The annexed
sketch is a rack for carrying plants; the rack
to be placed on the box of a spring wagon, is
one such which he, as a florist, has had in
use, and which mil commend itself to all
who have occasion to carry pot plants to
market. Unfortunately the articles which
accompanies the sketch became mislaid and
cannot appear in the present issue. But the
matter is so timely at this, the planting sea-
son, and our engraving so easily to be
understood, that we present the cuts with
thLs explanation.
It will be seen by the cross bectional view
that the rack consists first : of two iron sup-
ports or crosspieces bent to the form shown
by the heavy black line a. I. and which rest
tipon and clasp the top of the wagon bos, c ;
second, the wooden slats d. d. which are
riveted to the iron creepers with spaces
between. These slats are then ratched at
intervals with concave ratches as shown in
upper drawing and into which the parts fit
snugly, as shown beneath.
The iron crosspieces may be made of old
wagon tires, the slats of ash or pine wood.
Orchids for Amateurs— First Paper
FELIX MASTRON.
A great number of those amateur garden-
ers who possess a small greenhouse, and
many of those who do not, are quite enthus-
iastic in their admiration of Orchids. They
like the curious forms and brilliant 'colors
displayed in the flowers produced by plants
of this most interesting family. Numerous
heroic attempts at their cult tire by this class
of people have come under my notice.
The principal source of trouble in such
cases appears to be simply and solely a lack
of knowledge on the part of those who at-
tempt the experiment. Some few obtain
the requisite knowledge from their experi-
ences and are sticcessful, while the greater
number fail and give up in despair.
The conditions at disposal are usually
quite favorable to the successful culture of
many beautiful and interesting species, but
the majority of beginners too frequently
commence operations with kinds that are
wholly unsuited to the means at their dis-
posal. Being once set right in this particu-
lar, however, the lover of Orchids, however
primitive his structures and appliances,
usually finds the road to success smooth
and straight.
Costly structures, great wealth and skill
are by no means so necessary as one might
infer from the above-mentioned article.
There are numerotts instances on record of
some Orchids that are really diffictilt to
manage being grown very sticcessfully
under disadvantageous circumstances.
A Rach ftir carming Plants.
plants is decidedly beneficial to the begin-
ner. These, happily, are in most cases of
the simplest order. Many valuable collec-
tions of Orchids have been ruined by the
elaborate care bestowed upon the plants.
Of course this was to some extent an evil
necessity, because an exact knowledge of
their requirements could only be gained in
many cases by experiment.
With the amount of attention ordinarily
bestowed upon the commonest hotise plants,
most Orchids will thrive admirably. Many
of our most beautiful species wUl easily sur-
vive the ill-treatmentand neglect that would
kill the most ordinary Geranium, Fuchsia
and Coleus. This is easily understood.
Under their natural conditions they are often
subjected to great extremes of heat and cold ,
draught and moisture. When one is ac-
quainted with the natural conditions under
which a plant floitrishes, it is In many cases
an easy matter to devise artificial conditions
that will be productive of better results
(horticulturally) than are met in nature.
Many of the plants now grown in gardens
would not be recognized in a natural state
by an ordinary observer. Truly may it be
said that we " mend nature." And thus it
is that by observing uniformity rather than
fluctuating extremes in our treatment of the
plants we are of ten enabled to dispense with
conditions that appear unnecessary, and
still be sticcessful.
Ijet the amateur orchidist take courage.
The daily experiences of Orchid growers are
most decidedly in his favor, and it is the
writer's firm opinion, as it is his fondest
hope, that the greenhouses and windows
will in a very few years be as well filled
with luxuriant plants of beautiftil Orchids
as they are now filled with common plants.
A series of hints on selection and treat
ment suitable to the wants of the beginner
in Orchid culture will follow.
Marecha) NIel Roses In Pots.
One gets so accustomed to the orthodox
method of training the lovely Marechal
Niel Rose to the roofs of greenhouses that
any other mode of culture comes as a wel-
come relief. From what I have seen of
others and have done myself, I have come
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
205
to the conclusion that this popular variety
is not put to as great advantage as it might
be. Everyone wlio lias grown it knows, and
many to their chagrin, that the Mareehal
Niel is a comparatively short-lived Kose.
It is In good health this weel<, and by next
week it may show signs of sicliness, which
eventually will end in death. How many
readers of this paper have not seen their
Mareehal Niels produce an abundance of
lovely blooms in one particular season, and
then, from sheer exhaustion, as it were,
gradually sicken and die, and leave them
without a Rose ? Too many have experi-
enced this ; but why do so, when there are
so many ways of averting this stat« of
affairs?
For years I grew a large number of Mare-
ehal Niels from cuttings annually, inserting
them in heat in spring, and blooming the
following winter. It is a method that those
who have heat at their disposal will do well
to adopt. As has been said, the cuttings
where Inserted in spring about March. They
were slips of young wood taken from an
old Mareehal Niel that was growing in an
early vinery, and this, being started in
November, would produce blooms by Feb-
ruary. The cuttings were made about three
inches in lengtii, and inserted in .5-inch pots,
placing six or seven around the sides of the
pots. A compost of loam, leaf-mould, and
sand was used, and a layer of the latter
placed over the surface. When inserted the
cuttings were watered with tepid water,
sufficient to soak the whole of the soil ; and
then the pots were plunged into a brisk
bottom-heat and covered with bell-glasses.
A slight shading was afforded when the
sun was bright, and the cuttings were
sprinkled occasionally. In about a fort-
night they wereinvariably rooted sufficiently
to enable them to be removed to a more
open position, and after remaining there
for another week I usually put them in
small pots, those three inches or four inches
in diameter being selected. For this potting
rather a sandy compost was used, and the
young plants afterwards replaced in a
strong heat, and grown on precisely in the
same manner as pot vines are. Subsequent
repottings were, of course, necessary, at
which fibry loam and half-inch bones were
used, and these were given at frequent in-
tervals so that the young plants could not
receive a check in their growth.
In following out this method of treating
the Mareehal Niel it will be found that tine
young plants, with one long shoot each,
eight feet or ten feet in length, and nearly
as thick as a man's little finger, will be ob-
tainable, and it these are properly ripened
they will produce a very tine bloom at every
bud. The way I treated the plants was, as
soon as they receive their last potting, which
usually was in 7-inch or S-inch pots, to train
them to the roof of a stove and encourage
them to make as much growth as possible
by judicious watering and syringing untU
the end of August. At that time they were
removed to a cooler house for a few days,
and eventually placed out-of-doors on the
sunny side of a wood fence facing south.
The long shoots I tied loosely in a perpen-
dicular manner, and there they ripened
beautifully, which to a great extent is the
secret of the success in growing the Mare-
ehal Niel.
In October the plants were removed to a
cool vinery, and after cutting off the soft
points the long shoots were twisted round
three stakes, which had previously been
thrust into each pot, and tied loosely in
position. Beyond this nothing except a top-
dressing of loam and bone-meal was given
the plants— nor, indeed was it necessary;
for they were ready to be placed in heat at
any moment, where they never failed to
bloom in a satisfactory manner.
It should be clearly understood that at no
period from the time it is inserted until the
soft points, as above said, are removed in
the autunm, must the cutting be stopped,
l)ut rather encouraged to make as much
growth in one shoot as possible.
After flowering in winter or early spring,
the shoots may be cut back close to the soil
— just as one would cut back a one-year-old
pot-vine — and placed in heat again. If
properly treated, the old stump will quickly
start into growth, and will in all probability
make a stronger and longer shoot than it did
the first year. This is a simple mode of
growing the Mareehal Niel, and one which
should be universally practised by those
who have facilities at their command. — C. L.
in Gardening Illustrated.
Improved Tools of Tillage.
Every year adds new implements to our
already large list of tools of tillage, and
brings our older ones to greater perfection
by more or less important changes. Some-
times we think we have a tool as near per.-
fect as we can expect to have it, when, lo,
the next year brings us little changes or
attachments which fit the original tool for
new purposes and uses. Such a case has
come to our notice with reference to the
Planet Jr. horsehoe, which, like almost all
other Planet Jr. goods manufactured by S.
L. Allen and Co. always stood very high in
our estimation.
For the coming season the manufacturers
have added new features, which seem to
siirpass in number and importance those
made in the aggregate during the past three
or four years. We here illustrate one of
them. This is the "Lever Expander" by
Planet Jr. Horsehoe— Improved.
means of which the width of cultivator
can be changed a few inches at a time, or
all the way from narrow to wide or lu'cc
versa, or narrow on one side and wide at
the other, at an instance, and while the
horse keeps going.
Another new feature is a Hiller andCelery
Farther, an implement complete in itself.
Its object is plain enough, and it looks to us
like a good thing. Among other new at-
tachments to the Planet Jr., there is a "Vine
Turner," a " Furrower and Marker," a
" Rake-covering attachment," a " Roller-
covering attachment," and a " side adjust-
ment for the handles." There is little doubt
that some if not all of these new features
wUl prove of value, and we hope they will
be thoroughly tested the coming season.
Protect the Birds.
Every accused should be given the benefit
of the doubt. This is not often done with
many of our small birds which are usually
adjusted guilty of grave offences on mere
suspicion, and frequently maltreated, poison-
ed or shot at for injury done to crops when
in fact they have done more to protect them
by waging a war of extermination against
the insect enemies of such crops, than they
have done damage by taking an occasional
bite of fruit or vegetable.
An instance of this kind is told by L. N.
Bonham of Ohio, in one of the western
papers. My field of Corn was in full roast-
Lug-ear, he says, and the blackbirds were
swarming in it. My hired man told me we
must get some boys with guns to shoot
blackbirds, or they would ruin our Corn.
He added, " The neighbors are all in their
Cornfields shooting to drive away the black-
birds." I told him to wait until I had time
to see what the blackbirds were doing. On
entering the field there were enough black-
birds in sight to have ruined the field of
Com in a short time. I spent an hour or
more in the field of twenty-four acres, and
did not find an ear that showed the birds
were eating the Corn. The birds would
light on the ears, and spend but a short time
there and pass to another ear. I noted ear
after ear on which a bird appeared, always
waited until the bird had finished his
work. I found on every such ear the marks
of the boll-worm. They were developed
enough to have begun eating the grains.
There were the evidences that the worm
had been there, and I saw the blackbirds
there and making passes as if picking out
the worms, and after the bird had left the
ear I could find no worm. The birds seemed
to be busy hunting and eating this destruc-
tive and disgusting pest. I left the field
pleased and grateful to the blackbirds, and
told my hired man not to waste any time or
powder on the birds. They were welcome to
hunt worms, and could take what Corn they
wanted to make a variety.
Poisonous Plants.
Now that all nature again clothes itself
with verdure and bright gay colors, and old
and young delight to roam through fields
and forests, a word of caution may not be
out of place. Not all that glitters is gold ;
not all leaves and berries are good to eat,
safe to chew, or even to handle.
Young children often acquire a bad habit
of picking, chewing, and perhaps eating
any green thing, or nice looking berry they
may happen to come across, and for then-
own safety should be taught not to eat any
leaf or berry without first showing it to
their parents, or some grown person. Many
serious and sometimes fatal results have
occurred from a neglect of this precaution.
The American Cultivator enumerated the
following poisonous plants : The Butter-
cup, so common in fields, should never be
put into the mouth. If gathered, it should
always be held by the stem, as the petals
are very caustic and will quickly excite in-
flamation. The Oleander contains a deadly
poison, both in its leaves and flowers, and
special care should be taken to exclude
them from bouciuets for the parlor or dining
room. The leaves of the Meadow Saffron
and of Aconite, or Monkshood, seem to
possess for children the fascination of the
rattlesnake, but should be avoided carefully.
During the month of August there is, per-
haps, no plant so common in the fields, by
the seaside and on mountain-tops, as the
Meadow-Hemlock, of whose fatal decoction
it is said that Socrates drank. Its tiny white
flowers are indeed beautiful, and are often
gathered in large quantities by ladies and
children who have little idea of their poison-
ous qualities.
But it is those poisonous plants which so
closely resemble common vegetables that we
need specially to shun and to warn children
against eating. The common Dropwort, be-
fore it flowers, is so much like Celery that
the former is often eaten with deadly effect.
This plant contains a virulent poison, which,
taken into the stomach, causes convulsions
and often death. Another plant, almost
equally dangerous, is Fools' Parsley; this is
often mistaken for Turnips. Water-Hem-
lock, or Cow-bane, resembles vei-y much the
common Parsnip. Ivy and Dogwood, though
not eaten, are often gathered because of
their beautiful twining leaves. These, to a
large number of people, are poisonous.
206
POPULAR GARDENING.
June,
We cannot be too careful ourselves, nor
watch the children too closely. In cases of
poisoning, let no time be lost, but promptly
use every means to counteract its effects.
Vntil the arrival of a physician, produce
copious and frequent vomiting, and persis-
tently keep it up until all offending matter
is expelled. By no means allow the patient
to become sleepy, but give strong Coffee or
Tea, and if the body feels cold or chilly,
apply Mustard and bottles of hot water.
By every means keep up the circulation and
the brain active.
during the winter), and as an appetizer and
tonic. Our Apple orchards may safely be
doubled, and in some sections trebled, in
extent, and if we then feed liberally, and
send to market only the very cream of the
fruit, we will benefit ourselves in a great
many respects, by having cheaper food,
better and healthier stock, and better re-
turns for the fruit we sell. Of course where
planted with this view, varieties should
be selected that will cover as much as
possible the entire season, beginning with
the earliest sorts, both sour and sweet, and
ending with the latest.
Apples as Food for Stock.
ARTHUR JACOBSON, VA.
As a money crop, the Apple stands in the
front rank among fruits ; but there are
other properties and merits hidden in this
fruit, common as it is, which are not yet
fully appreciated.
There is a food value in the Apple which
heretofore has been almost entirely over-
looked. Apples may be plentiful, and cheap,
but don't talk of over-prodvictionior unprofit-
able culture, so long as they can be grown
at less cost, and with less attendance than
any other stock food of same value, and the
whole country full of horses, cattle, hogs,
and sheep are ready to take and turn to
good use all our surplus. In what way can
you grow the equivalent of the 400 or .500
bushels of Apples in other fodder which
will grow on the 30 trees occupying one
acre of ground, with less trouble and ex-
pense ?
I know large stock farms the owners of
which do not grow Apples enough for their
families. This don't look like over-produc-
tion. At the same time their horses, cattle
and hogs have a hard time of it in some
years to pick a living off the dried-up, burnt
up pastures in mid-summer or fall. What a
relief a good large orchard of hea^'y-yield-
ing sweet and sour Apples, with its gratify-
ing shade, pasture and dropping fruit would
be to the dumb brutes. And all this could
be had with but little cost and labor besides
the first setting of the tree on cheap land.
Then if in any year there is a demand for
good fruit at paying rates, pick out and sell
the good fruit for good money, and let your
stock have the culls.
I have fed Apples, both sour and sweet,
quite largely to horses, cows and hogs,
almost during the whole year, and have
learned to appreciate them for the purpose.
A horse worked but moderately, will keep
in better condition on four quarts of Oats
and one peck of Apples a day, with some
coarse fodder, than it would on eight quarts
of Oats. This puts the money value of
Apples for horses at least at one half that of
Oats, bulk for bulk. In other words, if
Oats are worth thirty cents a bushel. Apples
have a feeding value of not less than fifteen
cents per bushel.
Our best authorities concede Apples to be
equally valuable as Carrots for horses, and
as Turnips for cows, and more valuable
than Mangolds, pound for pound. If this
is the case, why should we always bestow
so much labor on the production of Carrots
and Turnips, and Mangolds, when we can
grow Apples almost without labor and ex-
pense, and in many instances let the animals
gather the crops themselves ?
Mr. E. H. Hutchinson is quoted as saying:
" For the general purpose horse of the far-
mer, I know from actual experience that
Apples are valuable food. I have had horses
that were in very low condition, from worms
entirely freed from this trouble when run-
ning among Apple trees, where they eat all
they want."
My own experience makes me think high-
ly of Apples as food for stock ( I even chop
up a mess for poultry once or twice a week
the hail knocked off. Thi.s is perhaps the
finest tree of the kind for many miles
around, over a foot in diameter at the
ground, and branches within eighteen inches
of the earth. Is 2.5 or 30 feet high, and at
least .30 feet in diameter of head. It has
borne three full crops successfully, and the
fruit brings a high price. With me it is
the most profitable, while Gov. Wood I deem
best in quality. Is there a better one ?
Judge Miller's Notes from Montgom-
ery County, Mo.
Newtown Pippin Apple. I know of no
Apple that is the equal of the Newtown
Pippin as a late winter fruit. But as to its
not coming up to the mark west of the
Allegheny Mountains is certainly a mistake.
We grow it here on the Missouri hills to
perfection, and I have seen it grown in the
low lands even still finer than mine.
It bears regular, the fruit is large, and
even larger than I ever saw them in the
east, clean and bright as a dollar, crisp,
juicy, and of that peculiar sprightly flavor
that no other Apple possesses.
I have seen specimens that would weigh
a pound, and have sent them east to its old
home where the people did not recognize it.
In connection with this it may be said that
quite a number of eastern Apples are per-
fectly at home here. Rambo, Romanite,
(red) Smokehouse, Esopus Spitzenberg,
Newtown Spitzenberg, Newtown Pippin,
Northern Spy, in fact nearly all do well
here, if they get a fair chance.
A D.^MAGiNG Storm. On May 12th we
had a hail storm that did great damage to
our trees and berry crop. One Yellow Belle-
flower, my favorite among fall Apples, the
tree of which was ten inches in diameter at
the ground and set with a full crop, was
broken down; $100 would not have been
taken for that tree the day before.
Fine Cherry trees that had full crops on
them within a few weeks of ripening. Straw-
berry, Raspberry, Blackberry and Grapes-
all suffered considerably: this is depressing
to one's spirits. No exhibition of the new
berries for me this season!
Never before was the importance of strong
Evergreens being planted on the stormy
side of smaller plants so forcibly impressed
as in this case. Choice Roses, a Marechal
Niel, whose buds are just ready to burst; a
Seppia Clematis, a Snowball tree, and other
choice plants, sheltered by two large Nor-
way Spruces, and partly by the house, are
unscathed.
It about to build a house on a plain or
prairie, one of the first things would be to
set a windbreak from north to south on the
west side, some forty or fifty yards from it.
The recent storm taught some people near
here that it is not safe to let a western garret
window open when a cyclone is coming.
For two days we hear the carpenter's saw
and hatchet in use putting on roofs that
were lifted off for want of the precaution uf
having windows closed.
The weather here has been unusually
changeable, hot and cold. Ice twice in May,
and this morning (May 15) mercury down to
4'i°, and by 2 o'clock P. M. may be 90°. Can
any other country beat this?
These are the vicissitudes of the fruit
grower, but it won't do to dispair. In the
Cherry orchard where five trees blowed down
I had planted fifteen this spring, expecting
that the old ones would soon give out.
Cherry trees to do any good here must
have low heads, so that the sun will not
strike the southwest side fairly, or they will
soon be done for. My Napoleon Cherry tree
has again a fair crop, nearly half of which
Judge Miller on Tender Roses.
Marechael Niel which has no superior
among the yellows, taking all things into
account, I have had off and on since its first
introduction, and up to this time never had
anything like a respectable show when
grown on its own roots. But when budded
into strong stocks, it has always done its
prettiest. Never yet has one on its own
roots given me a single flower, even with
the best of care, although laid down in the
fall and covered. During the summer they
make a feeble growth, and in the spring
Invariably are dead.
Not so, however, where budded on a
strong stem of some hardy variety, which
if budded a few feet from the ground, is so
easily bent over and an inverted sod laid on
the tender part. Just now two such trees
as I may call them, are near me on the lawn
full of buds that will be in bloom in a few
weeks, while the two plants in the garden
that were better all last summer and never
gave a flower, are both dead.
Not a rod from this is an Etoil de Lyon, in
my opinion the next best yellow, that was
budded six inches from the ground three
years ago, with a head, three feet high full
of buds and foliage is a picture to look at.
This could not be laid down last fall, so I
took a common flour barrel with both heads
out and set it over the bush filled in among
the branches with forest leaves, and tied a
piece of burlap around the top that was
above the barrel. In the garden is a plant
of Pearle de Jardins that grew well last
season, and which was well covered,
dead down to the ground and is only now
showing a feeble shoot. The budded tree
will have Roses a month sooner than the
'after probably will have.
Whenever I get a new one and wish to
see the flowers soon, it is taxed as soon as a
twig is fit to furnish buds. I insert them
into strong stocks of which there are always
some on hand. As soon as the buds have
taken, the stock is headed back and cement-
ed. It is seldom that two months pass
until I have Roses. Quite recently a deli-
cate little new one came to hand, that had
one tiny branch broken, which my daughter
claimed, and put into sand as a cutting. A
few days after it struck me that I could im-
prove on that and asked for it, inserted it in
a stock out doors, and now a week later it
looks fresh and promises to grow.
Roses are now sold so cheap that thou-
sands are bought that never come to bloom.
They are little delicate things taken from
under glass, that it set out in the open
ground, stand five chances out of six to
perish at once.
When such are received they should be
potted, and kept in a warm place with
plenty of light, but not much sunshine for
a few days. Than to be gradually hardened
by exposure to sun and air until they have
made a good start. In this way they may
nearly all be saved.
Of the thousands of different flowers in
cultivation none are equal to the Rose. My
collection is but small but am adding to it
every year. If some one could raise a.
hardy yellow Rose equal to Marechal Niel
in other respects, he would have a fortune
in it. When grown under glass it may do
well on its own roots, but not out-doors
with me.
POPULAR GARDENING
AND FRUIT GROWING.
•' ACCUSE NOT NATURE, SHE HATH DONE HER PART: Dll THOU BUT THINE." -Hn-TOS.
Vol. V.
crtJijir, X89 0.
No. lO.
July
With sinewy arniT). that beiul Ut^Tii'ntli the strain
Of wheat that shliiiiners in the market place.
Ills yellow hair wiuii blown alnml his faee.
Comes swart July, heaillug Iherumbrous wain
That with its heavy biirtleu doth complain.
KIpe eherrle,s. hohling still the orli-nt craee
Of Syrian groves allowing seantv space
To crijuson apples, anil full beartletl grain.
Popples ami glailloll are round his head.
Anil ereaniy lilies i-IIng altout his hands.
Their regal fragranee luring weary bees;
HJa tropic bounty showers its gidd and reil
On mountain crag, and where the sunlit sands
Grow cool and sweet beneath the rippling seas,
Youth'fi Companion,
Sr.rps OF Oi.EANDEii aud other haixi-wooded
plants may be routed in the simplest wa.v by set-
ting close toother in a low vessel nearly full of
a puddle of sand. This is to be put in a light
warm place, and the sand kept very wet.
The A.MERICAN Wild Vlowkr Club Intends to
make a complete exhibition of native Americiin
Flora at the World's Fair in isiri A pamphlet
descriptive of the aim and work i>f this Associa-
tion, and containing its full history, manner of
conducting branch clubs, etc., L« being issued,
and maybe had, with further information, by
addressing Sec\v S. Howe. Wilmington, Del.
Death of Patrick Barry. Just as we close
our last form, word reaches us of the death of
the well-known nurseryman, pomologist and
author Patrick Barry, at his home in Kochester,
N. Y. He died on the morning of June 23, at the
age of seventy-six years. At the present time
we have room for only the following brief out-
lines of his career. Patrick Barry was the son
of an Irish farmer and was born near Belfast,
Ireland, in 181(i. He laime to this country in ISJti
and in 1840, he formed a partnership with George
EUwanger and started the widely known Mount
Hope Nurser}' of Rochester, N. T., which isnow
among the largest tree and shrub nurseries in the
world. Mr. Barr.v was for several years editor of
The Horticulturist. He wrote a number of works
on tree-raising, his '"Fruits and Fruit Trees of
America" being the standard treatise in its line.
One of his chief and most valuable works how-
ever, was his "Catalogue of the American Pomo-
logical Society which is the accepted guide
of American fruit-growers, and is regarded
as standard authority throughout the world.
He has been president of Xew-York State
.Agricultural Society, and was a member of the
board of control of the New-York State Agri-
cultural Experiment Station. He was presi-
dent of the Flower City National Bank of
Uochester, and had been president of se\"eral
others. Patrick Barry was an upright man— a
model of Industry, integrity, and honor. No one
in the city, where he had lived his busy and
eventful life, was held in higher esteem by his
fellow-citizens; and the life of no man furnished
a better example or stronger incentive to the
youth of the present day, who would make f < »r
themselves a spotless name and achieve endur-
ing fame.
Prepare for the Winter Plants.
Whether plants are grown in the window
or the glass-house in the winter, one of the
iiKLst important things to think of for their
well-doing is the soil. It is to them what
food is to a human being, and on its nature
and preparation must largely depend the
health and vigor of the subjects. The
professional plant^grower realizes this, since
his soil yard receives a vast deal of atten-
tion, a point the amateur who later views
the products of the farmer's skill fails to
often properly to appreciate.
The most indisputable ingredients of
good plant soil are loam and rich organic
nuitter. liOam, indeed forms the basis of
composts best calculated to give enduring
life aud vigor to most soft-wooded plants.
The best article that is to be had is sod
from an old pasture. This is largely com-
posed of the fibrous roots of the grass and
which serves a double purpose, that of
plant food, and that of causing a sufficient-
ly porous condition for roots, air and water
to pass through freely, even when used for
-such things as require to be finely potted.
For imparting special richness to the soil,
nothing can be better than stable manure
used for the average plants in the
proportion of one-fourth or one-
third of the entire bulk.
As a rule the foregoing sub-
stances with some sharp sand and
some peat, or in its absence refuse
liops from a brewery, decayed
to he light and fine, are all that
the window gardener or other
amateur requires.
A common method of prepar-
ing plant compost by successful
growers is to gather turf from a
pasture or the roadside in July,
and to obtain some fresh stable
manure. A compost heap is then
started, by spreading of the
former about four inches thick to
the size of the heap, taking pains
to define it by a line of entire
sods. Then over the sod is placed
a layer of manure one-third or
one-tourth as thick as the former, spreading
it evenly. This Ls repeated until the heap is
as large as desired. The top course should
be soil with a line of sods a little higher at
theedge. After the completion of the pile,
water is applied on the top to thoroughly
saturate the entire mass. In a week consid-
erable heat will be present in the earth. In
two weeks the material should be thrown
over, beginning at one end, and cutting
down the pile vertically with a sharp spade,
a thin strip at a time to catLse the substance
to be somewhat fine. By turning over the
new pile once more two or three weeks later,
it will after then laying another month be
fit for use.
Soil is then placed upon it, and firmed as in
planting or seed sowing. A stake driven
into the ground so that the layer cutting
can be tied to it, and firmly held in position,
will usually prove of benefit.
Tonguing. as shown at a and h, is the
usual method of treating the layered part
for the purpo.se of checking the downward
flow of sap ; but the removal of a ring of
b.ark, as .shown at <; or cutting out a sim-
ple notch, as shown at d, also answer the
same purpose well.
Trees and shrubs intended for propogation
by layering, had best be headed back
lUiistrating Layering of Bard-wood Plants.
severely the year previous, to induce a large
number of shoots to start from near the
ground.
Layering Hard-Wooded Plants.
Most of the hard-wooded growths, cut-
tings of which do not readily strike root,
are easily propagated by what is known as
"layering." This in reality, is only a
modified way of propagation by cuttings,
the only difference being that the layer cut-
ting is left partly attached to the parent
stock to draw sustenance until able to de-
pend altogether on its own root.
The process of layering is made plain by
the accompanying illustration. One of the
branches of the shrub or tree to be layered
is cut into, and partly split, as shown at a.
This is called "tongued," and is done for
the purpose to stop the return fiow of sap
in the half-severed cutting, thus inducing it
to form a callous, and then roots, at the
tongued point a.
The branch is then bent down into a hol-
low dug into the ground beside the shrub
or tree, aud held there by little sticks
crossed above it, or a hooked wooden peg.
Fruits for Home Use.
S. GRA.\VI1XE, WISCONSIN.
The amount of berries and other small and
tree fruits that a family of fruit lovers will
consume with benefit to themselves, when
having free access to these delicacies, is
simply enormous, and far more than people
of moderate income could well aiford to buy.
Our own family of six members use from
six to eight quarts of Strawberries a day
during their season, and these at eight cents
a quart, which we would have to pay for
them if we did not grow them, would involve
a daily expense of over 50 cents, or much
more than I could afford to pay out even for
so good a purpose. Thus it is with Ra.sp-
berries, Blackberries and all other fruits.
But since I have a fruit and vegetable gar-
den of my own, aud raise all these things at
trifling expense, the work being all done by
myself and other members of the family in
our spare moments, and mostly " for recre-
ation," we can use fruits to our hearts'
content all season long.
I know farmers in this vicinity who grow
Wheat and other grains, and think they can
afford to, because Wheat brings cash, even
if it be ever so little and often less than it
costs to produce it, but ask them why they
have no patch of Strawberries, and they will
tell the old story that they can buy them
cheaper than they could raise them.
A gootl illustration of the folly of such
assertion was given by a Mr. Harris at the
last meeting of the Wisconsin State Horti-
cultural Society. He stated that a farmer
2o6
POPULAR GARDENING.
July,
in his locality is in the habit of driving to
his place once a year to procure a quantity
of Strawberries for his family. The past
season he came as usual, and being short of
cash, brought Oats, of which Mr. Harris
happened to be in need to exchange for the
berries. The Oats were worth at the time
15 cents per bushel, and the Strawberries l.i
cents per quart, so that a bushel of Oats was
required to purchase a quart of lierries. The
gentleman had driven 10 miles with his
Oats, and returned an equal distance with
his berries, the trip consuming the greater
part of a day. Mr. Harris grew UIO bushels
of Strawberries on an acre, while the
farmer's acre produced but 3.5 bushels of
Oats. Mr. Harris is decidedly of the opinion
that in his own case, he can better afford to
sell Strawberries and buy his Oats, than to
sell Oat.s and buy Strawberries.
are practically reduced to the use of anti-
septics acting at the ordinary temperature.
2. The preservative should be a liquid,
which, besides being an efficient antiseptic,
should not exert any solvent or softening
action upon the skin of the fruit. This con-
dition excludes from the outset all alkaline
solutions, and all the strong acids including
vinegar.
.3. The antiseptic should not extract or
change the color of the fruit. This is one of
the most difficult conditions to fulfill, and
European Grapes Under Glass.
D. M. DrSSl.\0, CAYTGA CO., S Y.
The photographs from which the annexed
illustrations are produced, were taken in
my vinery last year, one showing clusters
of fruit, the other an iiilerior view of house.
Photographs give but a poor impression
in such cases as this, when it is de>ired to
show fruit or flowers with the foliage, hut
they are honest as far as they go.
The largest clusters last year were fifteen
inches iu length, and aI>out the same across
the extended shoulders, and weighed si.x
pounds eacli.
This year they are promising better, .ind
some clusters already measure sixteen to
eighteen inches e.<ich way with Grapes the
size of Peas.
I am growing seventeen varieties, among
them the following: Bfirltarnsfin, which
gives the largest bunches, (and is of the
finest quality, the English growers to the
contrary notwith.standiug). Xot more than
five or six bunches of this variety can be
safely trusted to a twenty-four foot cane.
Miisidt of Alcxanolria. I shall have
three and four pound clusters of the Grapes
this year, perfectly fertilized at a tem-
perature of 7.")'. There is little trouble in
having this Grape set well at the above
temperature in a well-prepared border.
Muxcat Hainhur<i. This is, all things
considered, about the best all around Grape
I have, being early, of fine quality, beautiful
clnsters, and easily handled.
Among other varieties the most satis-
factory are Grizzly Friintiijnan, AJirnntv,
Black Hanibingh, Ruynl Muscadine, Bo-
wood ,Vi(.scnf, and Rose Chasselan.
Two of my varieties, viz: MoorenfieUI
Court Muscat, and Foster's Secdiing have
given me trouble by the berries cracking
jast as they are approaching the ripening
period. I would be thankful to know the
cause and a remedy for this. I am pleased
at any time when the Grapes are ripe, to
have any one interested in their culture
visit the vinery at my place at Auburn with
me. and discuss their merits in a practical
manner.
Preserving Fruits for Exhibition.
The fruit show at the fairs is not usually
what it might be. simply because fruits are
more or less perishable, often exceedingly
so, and the growers of really fine specimens
are not always acquainted with simple and
inexpensive ways of preserving them in
good condition for exhibit.
Prof. E. W. Hilgard, director of the
University of California Agricultural Ex-
periment Station states the following to be
essential in a good preservative.
1. It should prevent all fermentation,
molding, or other fungus attaclcs. As heat-
ing such as necessary in putting \ip fruit for
eating purposes, is naturally excluded, we
ClUfUr !>/ Muscat Hamburg Grown hy Mr. D. M.
Dunning.
yet one of the most essential. It excludes
at once so excellent a preservative as
alcohol, also common salt.
4. The preservative fluid should neither
cause the fruit to .swell, so as to increase its
size and sometimes bur.st it, nor should it
have the opposite effect of causing it to
shrink, consequently, the liquid in the fruit,
and the preservative fluid should be approx-
imately of the same density.
The use of sugar to bring up the density of
the antiseptic solution to that of the fruit
juice, naturally suggests itself, and with
some fmits very good results may be ob-
tained in that way. Still, it is preferable to
use glycerine, which can now be obtained
cheaply and which is for practical purposes
unchangeable when so used.
Like alcohol, however, glycerine exerts a
slight solvent action upon many fruit colors;
e. g., that of Cherries, Blackberries, etc.
Common salt has the disadvantage of
darkening all vegetable colors after a
comparatively short time: and Glauber's
salt, alum, and other commonly available
salts exert a not inconsiderable solvent ac-
tion upon colors, which rendei-s their use
inadvisable.
Of antiseptics the following are the most
available: Salicylic acid: boracicacid: sulph-
urous acid, and its compound, bisulphite of
soda (and of lime); last but not least, bichlor-
ide of mercury or corrosive suljlimate.
.Salicylic acid, or its compound with soda,
both obtainable in commerce, is one of the
best and the most energetic antiseptics. In
watery solution it is not so much used on
account of some ditficully in making it dis-
solve, particularly when the water is cold.
An ounce of the acid dissolved in a little less
than five gallons of water at the ordinary
temperature: but when it is simply thrown
on the water it may float their a long time,
being very light, and most persons will
think that it will not dissolve in that propor-
tion. In hot or boiling water there is uo dif-
ficulty, and the solution is carbonate of soda
(salsoda) even without heating. Hut when
making tise of the soda it is absolutely
necessary to avoid an excess, as the uncom-
bined soda exerts a very injurious influence
upon the preservation of fruits.
A solution of one ounce of salicylic acid to
five gallons of water, to which as much
glycerine has been added as corresponds to
the density of the fruit juice constitutes a
preservative fluid which has been used with
very satisfactory results heretofore. Trouble
has arisen from the use of too much soda
in making the acid dissolve; as already
stated, with patience or heating, the water
alone will dissolve the acid, and soda need
not to be used at all.
Boracic acid, while an excellent preserv-
ative so far as the mere prevention of decay
or fermentation gues. is more liable than
the salicylic to soften the skin and alter the
colors of fruit, acting in that respect, in
same cases, like alkaline solutions. It is
therefore not well adopted to long conser-
vation of samples in their natural aspect,
but will do well fur a few weeks with most
fruits. I'se the solution as strong as water
will make it, which is about five ounces per
gallon.
.Sniphurous acid, can also be employed
in solution for the preservation of fruits.
This solution may be made directly from
the gas of burning sulphur. It is, however,
morr convenient and just as good to use its
conxbination with soda, viz., the "bisulph-
ite" of soda, heretofore sold under the fan-
ciful name of "Califuruia fruit salt, "and re-
commended for use in caning fruit for hu-
mau cuusumption. Those whose digestion is
better than necessary and who do not object
to the sulphurous flavor of the fruit so pre-
served, may choose to so use the prepara-
tion. Its merits as an antiseptic are un-
questioned. Use 5 to 8 ounces per gallon.
The following mode of preparing a pre-
servative fluid with sulphurous gas, has
been very successfully used.
"Put :30 gallons of water into a 40-gallon
barrel: float on top of the water a tin pan, in
which put a portion of 2.5 cents' worth of
sulphur. Set the sulphur on fire and cover
tightly until the fire goes out; renew the
sulphur until the whole is consumed, open-
ingbarrel for renewal of air between doses."
Quite lately mercuric bichloride or cor-
rosive sublimate has been used with great
success as an antiseptic for preserving clus-
ters of Grapes, by keeping them immersed
in a solution of the strength of half an ounce
! Seeilling Potato EUiM Weeks from Sowing.
See page aoc.
of corrosive sublimate to a gallon of water.
The Grapes should be thoroughly washed
beforehand.
The solution should properly be made
with distilled water; when this is not avail-
able, other way may be used, preferable that
from the larger streams: but, particulary in
the case of well water, it should first be
boiled, and allowed to clear by settling be-
fore dissolving the sublimate. Even than a
whitish or grayish turbidity and sediment
I will usually form after awhile. This should
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
207
he allowed to settle fnlly before putting the
thiiil over llu' fruit. It woiilil also lie well
to lulii'l all sufh fruit jars "poison," for the
sake of safety. No u\etal must come in
contact with the sublimate.
Celery Culture.
a. J. BENEnrT. MERRIMACK CO., N. H.
Few people, compared with the many who
are Olery lovers, really enjoy Celery direct
from their own garden. This is because
many fail to treat it rightly duringsummer.
while othere do not know how to take care
of it during winter.
My ground is a sandy soil, and in ciuile a
dry location. Last year I grew a crop of
garden Peas on the land, then ha<l it
thoroughly forked over preparatory for
planting in .Tuly.
I then had a trench dug 14
inches deep and IS inches wide
at the l)ottom. I then tilled
the trench for about live inches
with dressing from my horse
and towstable. Then put on the
dressing about three inches of
soil, being careful not to pack
down the soil. Then I put in a
double row, plants being set
four inches in the row and
the rows four inches apart, in
diamond form.
By August 1st the plants
were making a rapid growth,
but as the weather was very
dry I was obliged to water the
plants freely. My neighbor's
Celery at this time was com-
mencing to rust, while mine
was continually growing. In
October I banked the Celery,
lea\ing only the tips of the
leaves out. In November 1 had
stakes driven into the ground
on both sides of the trench,
slanting inward and meeting
at the top, and fastened near
the top by a light piece nailed
across. The frame work was then covered
with boards, and further protected with
several cart loads of leaves.
All winter I could take out my Celery
for the ta,ble. No trouble to get it; no
frost to hurt it, and of flue flavor,
tender and as crisp, as you ever find it any
season.
I see no reason why I can't have Celery
through till spring in this way every year.
The Celery in the markets is often a good
deal rusty and generally poor, while mine
is strictly A No. 1. People who have even
a small garden can enjoy their early Peas
and Lettuce, and then find a space to plant
a fine row of Celery if treated in the way I
have described.
and spoiled most of them. But of all
shrubs two of the finest I consider to be
K.xocliordia granditlora and the Fringe
bu.sh, or Chionanthus Virginicar.
The Deutzias are in tine array; Gracilis is
just past bloom, and Crcnala and S<:abra
and I'ridc of Kochestcr are opening. Of
the mid summer shrubs there are none
liner than the Althaeas. When young, these
must be protected with care, but as they
become older, they grow hardier. The sin-
gle-llowering are quite as important as the
double. The variegated sort is fine only
for foliage as it never opens its buds. With
I lie Altha'as should be had a line assortment
of Catalpas cut back into bushes. I do
not know wUat can be finer then great
clumps of Bignonoides and of Kempferii
The Shrubbery and What to Make
of it.
E. P. POWELL, ONEIDA CO., N. Y.
By all means have a shrubbery. By this
I do not mean a general flower lawn with
bushes, but a lawn devoted to small
trees and shrubs, from Magnolias down to
Spireas. I am ju.st now looking out on the
procession of flowers, and wondering at the
possible delight that comes from such a
lawn. The spring has put behind a fine
concourse, and June has passed others in
review. Daphnes, Forsythia.s, Mahonias,
were followed by Spiraeas, Lilacs and
E.\ochordia. Then came a host of Syringas
(Mock Oranges) and Thorns, and the later
Lilacs with Fringe bush and then the Rose.
As I write the Roses are in full bloom — not
less than one hundred varieties. The
.Tosikea Lilac is fading, and the last of the
Syringas still fill the air with fragrance.
It has been a poor season for Lilacs because
the open winter swelled the buds in January
VIEW IN D. M. DUNNINGS GRAPERY, FROM A PHOTOGRAPH
and Speciosa. There is also a dwarf sort
getting, I think, never above three or four
feet.
Referring to some recent notes that I sent
to -PopuL.M! Gardening, the Rural New
Yorker says my experiments differ widely
from theirs as to cutting back trees to grow
them in bush form. " We much doubt
whether the Tulip, Magnolia or Catalpa
would ever bloom under this treatment."
1 have Catalpascut back annually for twen-
ty years, and forming bushes from eight to
twelve feet high, and they are covered with
blossoms every year. This includes the
Speciosa and Bignonoides as well as those
superb Hybrids of E. Y. Teas, the Purple
and Golden-leaved. As for Beeches and
Lindens of course we should not look for
bloom but we get the most admirable
shrubs with foliage greatly enlarged . The
same authority judges that all trees thus
cut back would be killed in a very few
years. I presume if you cut an old tree back,
it would soon rot out at the roots. The
plan I .suggested— not a new one to the best
horticulturists— intends the cutting back of
young trees and keeping them moderately
back. (lOod judgement must be used a-s to
the amount and time of cutting. I have
I>indens twenty years old not over six feet
high and forming a dense mass of shoots.
Such bushes will last as long as a Syringa
can be kept into fine form and bloom, or a
Weeping Kilmarnock or Rosemary Willow.
The fact is, our shrubberies must be re-
newed much like our Peach and Plum
yards. I cut away every year something
that has lost its beauty and again put in a
fresh supply.
A few of our shrubs only seem to be cap-
able of retaining their charms for a long
time, such as the White Lilac which crowds
up into the form of a small tree and will
hold its own anywhere. Hut the Persian
Lilacs, the Cydonias, the Cornus varieties
and im.irly all our pretty lawn bushes must
be constantly cleaned and cut. If I vverelo
make a list that would come as near to en-
during neglect for a long time, I would
take Knonymus, Deutzia scabra, Exochor-
dia, the varieties of Hibiscus, the Weige-
las. Hydrangea panicul.ata, I'pright
Honeysuckles and Viburnums. But they
all need care, for any really perfect results.
Old wood accummulates and the bush be-
comes unsightly.
The .same study of character must be
made in the case of shrubs as of trees. I
see efforts made to grow Pears thus after
an ideal .shape. Wiser culti-
vators understand that no
two varieties can be made to
conform to the same ideal
shape withoixt being ruined.
Our shrubs are possibly
more pliant, but it is impos-
sible to clip and shear them
arbitrarily without damage.
The charm of a shrubbery is
character. Let each plant dis-
play itself and its peculiar
tendencies, at least to such a
degree as to difference it from
all other shrubs.
I notice a habit is growing
to buy very small shrubs and
have them shipped by mail.
If I were a nurseryman I
should like this, because ten
thousand bits of plants at ten
cents each is better to the
salesman than one thousand
at twenty five cents each.
But for the buyers it is a blun-
der. The joy of the shrubbery
is in profusion of bloom, the
abandon of nature to gayety.
I have a few little things
here and there that I have
waited for five years and yet they are stun-
ted. Buy good strong plants and trees
always. I never buy of an agent, no mat-
ter how glib his tongue, or miraculous his
new sorts are. It is all a huge fib, my good
reader. Don't be caught. When you need
anything, send to old established houses
that have a solid reputation and you will
not pay, I warrant you, one fourth what an
agent will get from you for a humbug. I
always buy my Grapes of one man; my
trees and shrubs of either one of two firms,
and my berries pretty sure of another.
Some of the shrubs are almost invariably
grown badly. Among such are the Hy-
drangea paniculata, which should be train-
ed to a single stem and have the form of a
small tree. The bush Honeysuckles make
by all odds the finest of ornamental hedges.
SpiriPa aurea or Golden Spiraea is one of the
few shrubs that should be sheared into a
solid mass. It is a glorious golden ball in
May and June. Mahonia should be grown
on the north side of a house, or north east
angle, to protect it from winter's suns.
Dwarf Horse Chestnut is one of the shrubs
that should never be grouped, but grown as
a single specimen with abundance of room.
So also Viburnum plicatum or Snowball,
which is never fine iinless in full sunshine,
out of the drip of trees and houses. The
Weigelias group well as also do most of
the Spiraeas.
Of our native shrubs I very much like the
Sumach. You can hardly misplace it, either
in masses or in single great specimens. It
likes good soil, but thrives almost every-
where. For late ornament by all means
have abundance of Enonymus and Bar-
berries. The rich fruit of them is the glory
of November and December.
20o
POPULAR GARDENING.
July,
Notes from the Popular Gardening
Grounds at La Salle-on-the-
Niagara.
The Strawberry Patch. Fruit of the ear-
liest varieties only just bepns to ripen at this
writing. Alpha, according to its name, should
be earliest, and so it seems to be; fruit hardly of
medium size, of fine spicy flavor, and very firm.
Plant healthy, but not of strong growth. Haver-
land is remarkable for size, thrift and health of
its foliage, and the amount of fruit now cover-
ing the ground under the immense leaves. Itasca
has large foliage, but is inclined to rust. Ivanhoe
also shows healthy foliage, and fruit of largest
size and good quality. What a contrast in size
there is between the Wilson and Warfleld, both
ju fruit and plant. We might call the Warfield
a magnified Wilson, and a magnificent one be-
sides. It is a great producer of plants, with
enormous, healthy foliage, and plenty of very
large fruit, which has some of the characteristics
of the Wilson in appearance, flavor, and texture.
The Alpines, for practical purposes, are not
worth the space they occupy. Monmouth is
early, but rather small in both fruit and plant,
and hardl.v very productive. Lower makes a
good plant, but shows only little fruit, Logan
does not show the same thrift and health of
foliage as it did a year ago, but is reasonably
productive of fruit, which is large. Livingstone
has goo<l foliage, and long, sweet, fruit which is
of only medium size, and not any too firm.
Crystal City has \ery little fruit, and this is
rather small, but of very fair quality. Old Col.
Cheney is evidently played out so far as this
location is concerned. Altogether our planta-
tions at tkis early date indicates nothing more
promising in the Sti-awberr.v line than Bubach,
Haverland, and Warfleld. We do not present
this as final judgment, even for this season.
Further notes, and more in detail will be given
in August number.
Seedung Potato Plant. The origination
of new varieties in vegetables, as well as in fruits
must always offer cimsiderable attraction to the
enthusiastic horticulturist. Whether we get an
effective law tor the protection of originators or
not, the slight iirospect, that one or the other of
the new varieties may prove to be especially
valuable, will always be most palatable setison-
ing to the undertaking. Of course, we bavc
again raised our patch of new seedling Potatoes.
The seeds germinate so freely in the loose soil of
frames under glass protection, that we tried
them also in oix;n air, sowing them like Lettuce
or Radish seeds. But hea^y rains packed the
soil hard soon aferwards, and the young plants
were not strong enough to break the crust.
Undoubtedly the safer and better way is to sow
the seed in frames, and transplant to open
ground afterwards.
We here illustrate one of our seedling plants
as it appeared when taken from the frame in the
eighth week from seed, and transplanted once
before. It will be seen that the young tubeis
are already started.
Plant.s of this age, if well hardened off before
removal to oiien ground, are also hardy enough
to stand poisonous applications. We dusted
slug shot over them pretty freely, but while this
did not seem to do injury to the plants, some of
these were eaten off by bugs. The majority, how-
ever, and among them the thriftiest in the lot,
escaped, and are now growing rapidly, and
pretty much out of danger. We find our
bottomless fiower pots ( 5-inch size ), or short
pieces of tile of that size, when placed one over
each plant, a reasonably sure protection against
bugs and cold during the most critical period of
the plant's life, and much cheaper than gauze
tents built over the rows.
Among our last years' seedlings we have some
with remarkably thrifty foliage, and if ever we
find a real good variety among them, we shall
attempt to preserve its original vigor and pro-
ductiveness by continued planting of whole
tuljers under high cultivation. It appears to us
very likely that originators, in their desire to
multiply their stock at the most rapid rate,
resort to a method of close cutting which must
greatly injure the original vitality of the new
seedling. We would steer clear of such a
serious mistake.
Effects of Perslstent Weed De.structiok.
No doubt it is much easier and quicker done to
befoul a clean piece of land with noxious weeds,
than to free the land, once over-run with weeds,
again from these bad occupants. One year's
seeding often makes many years of weeding,
and of weeding, too, which is any thing but a
pleasure, as we hapitened to find out this spring
in a part of our Sti-awberry jiat^-h, where weedy
manure was put on last autumn.
With a little persistency, in keeping weeds
down, however, the improvement of the land,
so far as comparative freedom from weed
growth, is steady and gratifying. Many weeds,
such as Mustard, Wild Carrots, and most annuals,
can be almost entirely eradicated by a two or
three season's persistent pulling up or cutting
do»vn. In short, clear cultivation for a few
years in succession will bring the weediest soil
in subjection, and make it a pleasure to work it.
A Fine " Foliage " Bed. " Where are the
shrubs with magnificent leaves that grew here '
ami until the gra.^'s became strong. After that
the only attention given was that of the lawn
mower in the weekly cultivation of the grass.
The present season not more than half-a-dozen
Thistles have been discovered, and they feeble,
where last year there were hundreds. We wish
the Uandelir>n, Plantain and Rib Grass, were as
easy to subdue from a lawn. The difiiculty in
managing the latter is that they seed so freely.
The Virginian Cowslip. Great pleasure is
taken in cultivating on our grounds the beauti-
ful native hardy flowers. Among the gems
of this class worthy a place in any garden
is the handsome Virginian Cowslip or Lungwort
{Pulnumaria Virginiana) of which an engraving
said a subscriber who occasionally visited these ! at one-half size, drawn from nature, is shown
grounds last season, as he pointed to a certain
bed on his first visit this year. The bed was one
in which had been growing a mass of trees and
shrubs bearing conspicuous foliage, and showing
a very rank growth as a result of a well-fed soil.
annexed. It is really one of the most elegant
ornaments of the flower garden in May, the
bright clear blue of the flowers being matchle.ss.
Clumps of the plant grown in conjunction with
the white Narcissus which blooms at the same
Most of the growth had been cut to the ground, 1 time makes as lovely a contrast as one could
in early spring, hence their absence from the
visitors gaze. It was the treatment decided
upon for these growths and because of the satis-
factory appearance of the bed last year afld its
even better promise the present season we take
pleasure in referring to, and commending it
to our readers.
The aim in planting the bed was to secure
a striking growth of foliage with plants pictur-
esque in appearance and yet so hardy as not to
need resetting from year to year. Chief among
the kinds employed are the following :
Chinese Aralia {A ralia Mamlschurifa).
Japan Aralia {Aralia Jai)"»ica).
AngelicaTree or Hercules Club(-4 ralia sinttosa).
Empress Tree iPawUnrnia imprrailis).
Ailanthus (Ailantlntx glandukisiui).
Golden Catalpa (Vatalpa blununuiilm aurca).
Von Geert's Golden Poplar.
Fern-leaved Elder (Samlmcus nigra hcttr-
ophylla.)
Siberian Dogwood.
Great Knotweed (Piilimi'iitim empidatum).
The Keed (^rit»((ii lioHOJ-).
The Variegated Keedf.-l naiihi tl)inn.r varicyata).
The first nine kinds named were cut to the
ground both last spring and a year earlier. The
new shoots thrown out from the roots,
became very rigorous in this rich soil and the
foliage of a size and beauty quite remarkable.
At the present writing June 16th, numerous
young leaves on the Aralias are three feet long
and of same width individually, on young shoots
not above fourfeet high. From now until frosts
the growth will be rapid and
magnificent, and the bed as a whole
one of the most attractive on our
grounds No expense has Ijeen
incurred on it the present season
beyond the cost of manure applied
in the tall, and spading up the
surface shallow this spring.
This bed is in the line of what
is styled subtropical gardening,
but with the sub-tropical plants
such as Palms, Bananas, Uraciv-
nas, Caladiums and other tender
kinds requiring the protection of
glass in winter, left <)Ut, Those
use<l are all hardy as far north as
Niagara Falls with the slightest
protection in winter. The foliage
by the annual cutting down pro-
cess is as grand as anything in
Nature. None of the kinds used
are of delicate habit -in most cases
they are quite the reverse of this.
Why should not a thousand of our readers
have Just such a showy bed on their grounds V
The trees and plants employed were procured
irom the nurseries of Ellwanger & Barry,
Rochester, N. Y., and Parsons & Sons, Flushing,
N. Y. None were unusually expensive. Once
such a collection is planted and it will be of use
and increase in beauty for many years.
Canada Thistles on the Lawn. Here and
there over our grounds we have found a patch
of Canada Thistles, a weed looked upon as one
of the worst to be met by cultivators. One
small pateh occupied a place north of our dwel-
ling and where we desired to have lawn. Not
detered by the Thistles this part was graded and
seeded down a year ago, along with adjoining
parts. The Thistles came up thickly even ahead
of the grass. They were cut off just below the
surface with a spud made out of a table-knife
blade set into a handle five feet long. The cut-
ting was reiwated a tew times during the season
desire to see in the flower garden.
The flowers of the Cowslip look like so many
small bright blue pendulous trumpets, each
springing from a prismatic, pentagonal, five-
toothed caly.v : flower-stems from one to one and
one-half feet high. Soon after its heavy mass of
bloom the plant appears to die away and is not
seen until the following spring. It is |iropagated
by division of the roots which are thick and
fleshy. It may be found growing wild in half
shady woods at intervals throughout Pennsyl-
vania and adjoining states. I'nlike some native
flowers, conspicuously the Golden Itod, this
Cowslip does not partake of a weedy nature,
either by spreading rapidly or in its appearance.
Plants may be obtained from leading plant
nurseries at low cost.
Soil Diffictlties. We have had some ex-
perience before this in getting ordinar.v, well-
worn farm land into shaiie for gardening pur-
poses, and long since given up the idea that the
best results can be obtained on such soil right
from the start l).\- the application of manure,
and of high culture. No matter how good the
manure, and in what quantities put on the first
season, the crops will be less satisfactory than
they will be in succeeding seasons, when the good
treatment, as begun, is continued year after
yesir. In other word, ordinary laml needs a
course of prepai'ation, we might say training,
Ijcfore it can do its Ijest. Without a large
amount of accumulated plant foods in the soil,
in all stages of availability, maximum crops can
not be produced. By a judicious combination of
Earliest Forcing Radishes on Our Qrounds
manvires— well-rotted compost, high-grade com-
plete commercial fertilizer, nitrate of soda, how-
ever, we have always, and again this season^
been enabled to grow pretty fair ganien crops on
well-worn soil even the first season. Such a
combination of manures, all in generous rations,
say at the rate of 40 two-hor.se loads of compost,
I'iOO lbs of high-grade complete fertilizer, and iV)
lbs of nitrate of soda per acre, gives usually far
better results than e\'en excessive doses of barn-
yard manure or fertilizer alone will do.
Nitrate ok Sod* on Spinach. A glance at
our Spinach patch should convince the most
sceptical of the value of nitrate of soda for
certain purposes. The portion where this salt
had been repeatedly applieil, although in very
small doses (.50 to 7.') lbs per acre each time',
shows a remarkable thrift of foliage altogether
lacking in the portion left without such applica-
tion. It is a jilain demonstration that Spinach is
Just the crop on which the use of nitrate of soda
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
209
niiiy Ik; expected to give very satisfactory re-
turns. The effect on Lettuce, Ciibliage, and
Caulittowers is noticeable also, but very much
lcss9trikinK.
COMMENTS BY READERS.
Adepurlmtnt to wliichalliln' inritetl lo semi nnle.i
of t-j*;(cn't'/u-i- and observation cotivt-niinfi topies that
renntlu liave licen treated on l?i this Journal. Hany
sueh eontrilnttions monthly are weleome.
Pi'ss IN thkSthawberkv VATt'H. I am Very
much afraid the plan to use Kiinialkin as a
protector of the Strawberry patcli would be 11
failure. 1 iu\ er, as far as my observation goes,
saw a pus.sy jro so gaily (or the birtls as yours is
depietod to do. I ats, as a rule, crouch low down,
and try to hide themselves as much as possible,
and again cats are sleepy on a warm
day.andextremely miserable when the
weather is damp or cold. Their nature
also leads them to do their preying in
the early morning and at evening
time, and to chant their Psalms at
midnight. Starvation would not com-
(lel your cat to bestir herself in your
intcivst. Instead of a cat I would
recomnu-nd the employment of a small
terrier dog. These dogs have a strong
inclination to kill small birds, and if
they receive a little encouragement
will chase the birds all day for the
fun of the thing, and make any
amount of noise into the bargain, and
would require no tubs to take their
forty winks in for the good of their
digestion.— H. W. Smith.
M.\KiNG THE Desert Bloom. From
your article we inter that you
are not in favor of Congress making
any appropriations for irrigation pur-
poses. We out in this "neck of the
"Arid Desert'" look at some things a
little different. Kansas is given up to
be one of the best states in the union,
especially the eastern part of the state.
Yet there was a time when a man was
considere<l foolhardy who would under-
take to make a home west of the Mis-
souri river. Since it was first demon-
strated that such a thing was possible,
the cry has been " westward," and
westward they have pushed until here
we are right in the heart of the Great
American Desert. The government
sent agents out here to exact S1.25 per
acre for every acre of this land— good
and bad, and this amounts to only a
little over three quarters of a million
dollars for this (Finney) county. Now
we find we must have water from
some source to make a success. At
first we thought that rainfall would
follow cultivation, but while there
seems to be a slight increase,there is de-
cidedly not enough to make it safe to
depend on. Why don't we go south ? First the
climate does not suit us; second, we paid the
government for our land, and got a title to the
same; third, since paying for our land we have
never had enough money to get ourselves and
families south: and fourth, we do not want to
leave our homes. We like our homes, our cUmate.
our families. Our doctor's bills are light, even
if our grocery bills are heavy. We like our
broad fertile fields, and feel satisfied that the
government will sooner or later take some of the
money heretofore spent on the levies m the
south, and come a little farther up near the head
waters and build reservoirs to catch and hold
the surplus water so we can have it to use. — A.
S. Parson, Finney County, Kan.
A L.^VRGE BcBACH Stkawbebrt. Tout ar-
ticle in the June number might lead growei-s
who are as yet not acquainted with that variety,
to think that it does not often attain such a size.
Yet such is the case, at least with us. The
writer this season has picked dozens of just such
berries, some of them even larger, and all of
immense size, and these taken from the end of a
row left where we dug plants just to see what the
Bubach would do if not given the best treat-
ment. It is a No. 1 berry for all purposes, and
for market there seems as yet to be nothing to
compete with it. It is a most vigorous grower,
never rusts or blights, always a good bearer of
berries and seems to succeed everywhere.
Another berry I am pleased with is the " Viola."
Berries on plants set this spring were as large as
Bubach, and more regular in shape. " Michel's
Early" and "Gipsy" come up fully to the
descriptions we have seen of them. They will
certainly come to the front where early berries
are wanted. Both are extra early, prodiu'tive,
of good size, firm and good shippers, and that is
what the Delaware gvowers wants. The crop
here this season has sold well owing to the short
supply, there not having l>een over one fourth of
a crop marketed.— t'/ia.s. Wriahl, Sussex Co., Del.
(iKAPES Under (!lass. The fruiting of eight
feet of cane during the third season would result,
I expect, in very seriously impairing the cane
during that sea.son (not the fifth as 1 was made to
say in May numlier), and the fruiting of the cane
I he entire length of the rafter the fourth sesuson,!
would expect to result in ruining the cane during
the same (fourth, not sixth! season. I also think
that the (irapes during those seasons (third and
The Virginian Coii'siip. See "Notes from Pop. Gardenit>g Grounds."
fourth) would be of an inferior quality should
the grower be (ortunute enough to bring them
to an eatable condition. This to correct possible
misapprehension of former article.- JJ. 3i. Dun-
ning, Cayuga Co., iV. T.
Varieties Running Oct. I believe Mr. Hen-
derson was right that varieties do not run out.
A few years ago we failed to get good Spitzen-
berg Apples, and people said it were useless to tryi
and so they cut down their trees and planted no
more. It was so with the Virgalieu or White
Doyenne Pear. But I kept on planting and now
the Spitzenberg is all right again, if you will give
it what it needs, high culture and protection
against insects. It is simply a high-blooded fruit
and subject to atmospheric, soil, and other influ-
ences. The White Doyenne is also in good con-
dition and so noble a Pear that those may be
congratulated who did not lose faith in it. All
our finer fruits go through periods that are un-
favorable to their development in perfection.
Yes, Mr. Henderson is right, " there is no such
thing as permanent degeneration in the veget-
able kingdom," provided regenerative conditions
can be afforded in time.— B. P. P.
Pear Blight. Twenty-five years ago I had two
Pear orchards, and accidently discovered that I
could almost wholly prevent blight by growing
the trees slowly, keeping them well mulched and
: having the limbs branch out low. In other
\ words, I must secure slow growth, tough wood,
and by mulch avoid sharp changes of atmosphere
' from speedily and greatly affecting the circula-
tion of sap. Heading low shades the ground
i and aids in equalizing temperature. Conditions
afforded and you can have blight at any time ;
conditions prevented and blight germs can get
no chance to develop. The secret is to secure
good well-ripened wood; to cut out and keep
out feeble useless shoots ; to always have the
trees nuilched and not to over-stimulate growth.
I grow in sod and have my trees forked about.
Still S(»me kuids likeSeckcl, require more manu-
ring or feeding than other sorts. It may also be
addetl that all Pears, or nearly all, are in better
condition when grown quite open to the sun ;
and it the soil be not well-drained it would l>e as
well to cut the trees down as wait for the blight
to destroy them.— E. P. P.
OtiTFiT FOR Peddling Plants. In your re-
marks in last issue accompanying the illustra-
tion of ray acquaintance's device, for carry-
ing pot plants on the wagon, you have
omitted some points, and a further de-
scription of the method employed
may yet be of value to many readers
at this time; for taking the country
through, millions of greenhouse plants
are sold from wagons, either by the
producer or at second hand. The
general practice is to pack the pots
closely in oyster cases or similar boxes,
stuffing in sphagnum or wads of paper
around the pots to keep them in place.
This does well enough until two or
three plants are taken out, and then
the pots begin to jostle and tip over,
so it is necessary to repack after every
sale, which consumes a large amount
of time. The rack in question for
carrying plants does away with boxes
and the litter and annoyance of pack-
ing. The slats bolted on the irons are
placed far enough apart so that when
the sides are hollowed out in places, a
H<jwer pot will set down in the spaces,
the distance apart being graduated by
the size of the plants it is desired to
carry, some being fitted for 5-inch and
some for smaller pots. A pair of slats
are also bolted to the lower extension
on either side, which ride between the
box and wheels. The iron supports
are bolted to the slats so they just rest
on the box, the forward one being
wired to the lazy-back of the seat.
The slats project somewhat in the rear
giving additional room. In addition
to this rack a tray three feet long
twenty inches wide and four inches
deep is made with a bottom of similar
slats, and this turned bottom up, is
made to rest on the seat and dash board
beside the driver. In this way the
whole bed of the wagon is at liberty to
use for carrying flats of Cabbages and
Tomatoes, dormant Grape roots or
shrubbery, bulbs, fancy Potatoes or
anything else. This man carries
Fuchsias wrapped in paper and lying on
the side in boxes. Carried thus they do not whip
in the wind or injure from exposure, and a single
sample plant is all that is necessary to expose at
a time.— 1>. B. Pierce, Summit Co., O.
Newtown Pippin Apple. I have the same
high opinion of this Apple that is held by Judge
Miller, and am tempted to call it, with Mr. H,
Hendricks, the "King of all Apples." Its only
faults are that it is a slow grower at first, and
that it does not bear when very young. . Mr.
Hendricks tells of orchards along the Hudson,
where it never fails to produce splendid biennial
crops. They receive no special culture and stand
in sod, but have borne the crop regularly for
nearly 20 years, and they net the owner a much
larger sum per tree than any other variety he
has. Where ordinary kinds bring one dollar per
barrel, as now, he gets three dollars for his New-
towns ; and this has been his average price for
years. His orchard is on an eastern clay slope
near the river. Others like it can be named.
Were I to plant an orchard, he says, the Newtown
would have a large place in it, and not merely as
a matter of sentiment either, but as a financial
investment. Some time sine*, passing the store
of an Italian fruit vendor, I saw, among a large
collection of other Apples, a barrel of the largest
and finest Newtowns I ever beheld. I cautiously
asked the price, expecting it would be three or
four dollars. " gl.bO," was the answer, while
handsome "Kings" and other Apples standing
near were three and four dollars. Of course I had
the Newtowns sent to my house very promptly.
It was evident that neither the seller nor the
grower knew what the Apple was.— PotH^hfceepsi'e.
2IO
POPULAR GARDENING.
July,
The Meeting of Nurserymen in New
Yorl<, June 4 to 6.
The fears of some nurserymen that an
annual meeting held in New York might
prove unsiiccessful, because New York is in
no sense a leading nursery point, were liy
no means confirmed. The attendance dur-
ing tiie first week of the past month at the
convention was large, and the interest ex-
cellent. Nearly 300 representative nur-
serymen were present from all parts of the
country. The wives of a number of the de-
legates were also in attendance. There was
a live interest in all the proceedings which
indicates that the nurserymen are more and
more appreciatmg the gain that comes from
these annual gatherings and exchange of
views concerning important topics bearing
upon their business.
Rktiring President's Address. Mr.
Sweet alluded to the fact that it is 1.5 years
since nurserymen first assembled in Nation-
al Convention. He spoke of the influence
which fruits and fruit trees have from the
first exerted in shaping the destiny of man-
kind. It should be one of the chief ends of
this Association to elevate the business of
supplying trees and plant so as to attract
the best men and the best talents of our
country to the ranks of horticulturists.
Reference was made to the altered condi-
tion of the nursery business in the life time
of our Republic. Kven middle-jiged men can
easily rememl)er when Western New York
had practically a monopoly of the nursery
business. The center of nursery production
has long ago moved many miles west. To
day there are more nurseries west of Cent-
ral Ohio than thirty years ago there were in
the entire United States. There had been
great changes in the methods of producing
stock since the war, and today the chief
difficulties no longer lie in the production
of the fruits, but in finding a safe market.
If a discouraging condition of things in
the matter of fruits is realized , it is so large-
ly as a result of the fact that we have out-
grown the primitive state of things when
the business was new, the country new, and
the prices large. Could the general public
be made to learn of the meagre profits which
now are realized by nurserymen in propor-
tion to risks and outlay, they would be
more ready to stand by the legitimate grow-
er and pass by the unprincipled men who
join the ranks only long enough to make a
single planting in a place, for it is true that
no other business of like magnitude is sub-
ject to such extreme risks as is ours. The
winter's biting frost that makes a millio-
naire out of plumbers, may make paupers
of many nurserymen.
Still we must remember that the general
producing of many has during the past few
years rapidly declined. Investments that a
few yeai's ago yielded seven percent will
now scarcely average three per-cent. I
therefor consider that the outlay is not such
as to make us either over-sanguine, or des-
pondent. The sturdy-going, intelligent
grower may feel that he may yet reap fair
remuneration.
Mr. Sweet thinks that a chief factor of
uncertainty lies in the undersirable fact that
may arise as a result of the recent increase
of the tariff by the Canadian Goverment.
The magnitude of export trade to Canada is
greater than is generally understood. One
firm in Western New York paid this spring
between $.5,000 and $0,000 duty on exports
to (Canada. If this adverse legislation was
in any sense in retaliation against the pass-
age of the McKinley bill, then this conven-
tion should urge upon Congress the adop-
tion of a reciprocity treaty with Canada
which shall remove these artificial barriers.
The extension of the fruit market, and
with it the tree market, the introduction of
improved varietes and appliances for cul-
ture, preserving and marketing of fruits,
should all occupy our attention for stimula-
ting trade.
"It is a most ennobling thought", Mr.
Sweet remarked, "that our vocation con-
stantly tends to ameliorate the condition of
the human race and adds to the sum total
or human happiness. Today the king at
his royal table and the artisan from his tin
pail enjoy alike the Bartlett Pear, the Grape
and the Orange. Is this not better than half
the deeds of half the so-called statesmen and
warriors since the world began?"
Some New Fruits. Mr. Vandeman alluded
to the Lyon as a fine red Grape, much like
the Delaware but larger, the appearance
being quite similar to the Catawba with a
flavor nearly its equal; medium in season,
originated in Michigan by a Mr. Chichester.
Colraln somewhat resembles Martha, being
a white Grape. The quality is fair and in
productiveness it equals the Martha. Mr.
Campbell reported that he had produced if
for two years, was satisfied that it was a
true Labrusca with the general charaster-
istics of the Concord, except color. It was
larger in size of bunch than the Martha and
somewhat better quality but earlier. He
thinks it is much more valuable than Mar-
tha. Its season is between Martha and La-
dy. While the skin is somewhat thin, it
will ship as well as Worden. Wooflrnff
Rtil. Mr. Vandeman spoke of this as a
good grower and very fine except for its
color. Skin rather thick, but a good mar-
ket Grape. Mr. Campbell has confidence
that this will prove a good popular market
Grape and also a Grape for the million.
While its quality is not .so high as to recom-
mend it as one of the finestamateur Grapes,
yet many like it as well as any kind grown
while it would be sure of appreciation with
the masses, he was satisfied, with the Con-
cord. It has sold well in market, its pe-
culiar color being an attraction. The vine
is a healthy, hardy grower and very attrac-
tive. Mr. Hubbard reported that he had
seen some very productive vines of this va-
riety, the bunches produced being of fine
appearance. Orccn Mmintai'ii. Mr. J. W.
Manning had seen this variety for two
years in succession at the Hoyt Fruit Farm,
and pronounces it very early, a good grower
and entirely hardy. Mr. Hulibard had seen
it at Geneva, where it presented quite a
promising appearance, being very early
and good quality.
The KiuU Pear was alluded to as of Mis-
souri origin, aiid for keeping qualities is the
best Pear he has yet seen. He would class
it in quality with Lawrence, and makes it
even better than Vicar. The flesh is solid,
the skin is yellow. It kept all winter, and
in his judgment was well worthy of atten-
tion. The Itlaltii Pear, Mr. Vandeman says,
is much like Duchess in size, shape, and
flavor. Still in his judgment he would not
yet conclude that it was more hardy than
others. It has no Japanese blood, but is
probably a seedling of Duchess.
The Garfield Apple, the same gentleman
declared to be one of the hardiest, being not
far behied Ben Davis in size. The fruit is
handsome in appearance, having a red
stripe, is slightly conical, of quite good
quality, originated in Northern Central Ill-
inois. The Laciin Apple, of Lacon, 111., re-
sembles the last, and has stood winters
where others died. The Shirk in an India-
na variety, .season the same as Bailey Sweet,
luitthe fruit is larger, very sweet and the
tree a better grower than that variety. He
esteems it as a very fine fall sweet Apple.
The BuUmitii, a variety widely distributed
in Illinois, Mr. Vandeman feels satisfied is
the Red Canadian. Ituinhor disai)points
him much. It is a late keeper but poor in
qualily, of a greenish color. Pffffer, a var-
iety originated in Wisconsin, was thought
to be better than Pewaukee and fully as
hardy. Another variety called ll'/ri(?.vor is
a medium-sized red fruit, handsome white
fle.sh, good quality, and very hardy. Ear-
ly Uiilden is a very nice yellow summer Ap-
ple, very attractive and very tart, hence va-
luable for cooking. It is not quite as early
as Harvest. A'aiimp, medium size, green-
ish yellow, flavor very good, October, No-
vember, hardy. The Foi/ik?/?);/, a variety
of New England origin, is quite hardy in the
extreme north of New BjUgland. Itisared
striped Apple on yellow ground, medium
sized, good quality winter fruit.
Attention was called to the increased in-
terest in nut culture. There are varieties of
the native Chestnut superior in quality and
size to the ordinary, and these should be
sought out for propagation. No Japanese
Chestnut equals the native in quality. The
Diiliiiiit originated at Dover, Delaware, is
fully twice as large as the ordinary nut.
JViic (»ci!7/)if(;, which is a large tree, yields
fully ScjO.OO income per year from the nuts.
Pnnnjiin is about the best Chestnut, all
things considered. It is as large as Dupont,
yields enormously, bears young, and is of
good quality. It is not a foreigner in his
judgment. The Nutnlm is a large foreign
variety of poor quality.
A delegate present said that these large
varieties are never as good as our smaller
natives but added that cooking improves
the large class byovercoming the astringency
in the skin of the kernel. Mr. Jenkins of
Ohio observed that trees when young bear
larger fruit than the same when older.
The Prcnn nut, is recommended for the
rich alluvial landsof the South. Mr. Vande-
man states that its culture will prove very
valuable if confined to the Southern States,
and does well as far north as central Indi-
ana. The Mi\ricaii Pdiwrnlirll nut, grown
in Mississippi is three times as large as the
ordinary varieties, most delicious in flavor.
The Crdnddll Currant, Prof. Bailey
says, is the coming fruit, and attention
should be given to fixing and improving it
by propagating from the best plants.
To be continued.
Pickle Growing for Profit.
WALTER UORMAN, NIAGARA CO., N. Y,
Cucumber pickles are a great money crop
in this vicinity, almost every farmer plant-
ing his one, two and three acres annually,
and thus often materially adding to the
otherwise not magnificent returns of his
farm operations.
To make the most of it, planting should
not be delayed too long; early June being a
good time, and usually more profitable than
if done later, although many fields are
planted, or at least replanted (when the bugs
have devoured the first sowings) as late as
July. The earliest planted fields are often
out of the way of harm from bug depreda-
tionswhenthe later ones suHer badly; andat
any rate we must try to get the advantage
of a long bearing period, rather than run
the risk of having one-half of the crop spoiled
by an early fall frost.
The land selected for the crop should be
in good condition— the richer the better — a
young, fertile Clover sod often giving excel-
lent results. Manure is to be used without
stint, if the field is only moderately fertile,
and usually applied broadcast; and plowed
under. On soil already rich, however, we
often use only a shovelful or two of good
well-rotted compost in the hill— and this is
a commendable and profitable practice any-
way. We plow the land in the usual way,
turning the furrows over nicely, then pul-
verize it thoroughly by means of Disk har-
row and smoothing harrow, going over the
Held repeatedly and in different directions,
until we have a perfect seed bed. The next
step is the marking out both ways, which is
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
21 1
done by means of a marker similar to a
Corn niarter. with teeth four feet apart.
Some of us plant somewhat wider, but I
prefer this distance, in order to have the
whole area well occupied. Xow comes the
compost, or a handful of good fertilizer into
e.Hch cross mark, and here we make a broad,
tlat hill iipon which 10 or IJ seeds of the
White Spine variety are dropped and lightly
covered with fine soil. The foot is used in
firming the soil.
When the plants appear, the period of
danger and of close watching begins, for the
bugs are usually there, and manage to meet
the young plants half way. We have made
repeated ;applications of slug shot with ap-
parently beneficial results last year, and are
trying the same again this season. It does
not seem to hurt the plants in the least, as
many other applications, especially plaster,
lime and Paris green, appear to do. Keep-
ing the plants covered with bone dust has
also seemed to be a help in keeping the bugs
off, and we are using it again on part of our
plantation. Of course good cultivation is
given until the vines begin to mn. When
they begin to bear, the pickles must be picked
regularly, and always clean. On this de-
pends themea.sure of success; for if allowed
to grow to very large size forming seed, or
worse yet, to ripen on the vines, the latter
will soon give out and stop bearing. The
pickles as demanded by our buyers should
be from S^.C to 6 inches long, and the nearer
they are to the former size, the larger will
be the number produced, and consequently
the more money the crop will bring. This
is probably one of the most important points
about this business. Pick often, and try to
have all pickles uniformly small. The
market will usually prefer them thus; more
can be drawn to the load, and more money
brought back for them.
Our crops are usually grown on contract,
buyers agreeing to pay 12 cents per 100, de-
livered in crates at our station. The point
of profit is always the most interesting.
When the crop is well managed, and on
fertile soil, it makes not a bad showing in
this respect. Of course, we are not quite so
fortunate as Mr. M. Milton, of Ohio, who,
according to his report in some paper
grew 43,(X)0 pickles on one-eighth acre,
selling them at s^.-iU per l,(M). and securing
a net profit of *ti9, or at the rate of ^5.5J per
acre. He had the advantage not only of
good garden land, but also of a demand for
pickles from one-half to three inches in
length, at more than double the price that
we realize for our larger ones.
We consider a yield of 100,000 pickles per
acre a pretty good one, although now and
then we have raised 150,0(Xl, and under ex-
ceptionally favorable conditions and high
manuring still more. But on the other
hand, we do not make much account of our
expenses. We have the manure — made by
our own stock— and the family does the
picking and the other work connected with
it. The amount of *I20 received for a one
acre crop, or *;3H0 for our three acres, there-
fore is looked upon as clear gain, and cer-
tainly it helps us ont quite nicely in these
times of low prices for all our usual pro-
ducts. But it means considerable work for
most of the family members.
One of our neighbors is not only a pickle
grower himself, but a pickle buyer as well;
and most of the pickles hereabouts are
grown for him under contract.' They are
laid down in brine, in large vats, each ot
which may hold -H) or 50 barrels, and in due
time sold to the grocery stores in Buffalo,
but I do not know at what prices. Another
neighbor disposes of his own crop in the
same way, and possibly it might pay us all
still better to adopt the same practice.
Altogether, however, this pickle industry
gives us better returns from our land than
growing Tomatoes for the canneries at
less than $8.00 per ton.
Oranges and Crape Fruit.
K. 1'. roWKLI,. ONEIDA CO., N. Y.
Tlie use of Florida fruits is so largely in-
creased as to no longer call for special at-
tention, but our northern consumers do not
yet begin to realize how vast an amount of
positively inferior fruit is consumed by them
under the general name of Oranges. There
really are almost as many varieties of
Oranges as there are of Pears or Apples, and
they differ as largely in quality, but apart
from three or four distinctions, such as Mes-
sinas, Floridas, Tangerines, etc, an Orange
with us is an Orange and nothing more.
During the past year I have imported di-
rectly from Orlando, boxes of Oranges which
were indeed a revelation to me. At a cost
of from ^2.ry0 to ^i.W), freight included, I
secured fruit fit for the Gods to eat. Our
northern home consumers, by clubbing
together and procuring 'half a dozen boxes
at a time, can thus obtain this most whole-
some and noble fruit in its best state, but
what I intended especially to speak of, is
the Grape fruit. In my judgment this is the
healthiest fruit that grows on the face of
the earth. It is a Citrus, averaging two or
three times the size of an ordinary Orange,
enormously juicy and of a mild acid, the
flavor of which grows upon one the more
they eat it. It way be said to be half way
between a first-class Orange and a flr.st-class
I^emon in fiavor, with a distinct and peculiar
aroma of its own. Cut in two crosswise
through the middle, and eaten with a tea-
spoon when rising before breakfast, it is not
only delicious, but exceedingly wholesome.
I recommend it to all lovers of good fruit,
and especially to those troubled with indi-
gestion.
Fungicides and Spraying Pumps.
Prof. B. F. Galloway, of the Department
ot Agriculture, in the .lournal of Mycology,
Vol. 0, No. 1, calls attention to several new
preventives and remedies for plant diseases.
and desires that they be more fully tested.
The first of these is a solution of copper
acetate or verdigris, prepared as follows:
-Dissolve three pounds of powdered verdi-
gris in six to eight gallons of water, and
after standing for 34 hours, dilute to 22 gal-
lons. If desired, the amount of verdigris
may be increased to four pounds without
injury to the plants. This preparation be-
ing comparatively cheap and easily pre-
pared, it would be well to test it for downy
mildew and black rot of the Grape, making
the applications as described for Bordeaux
mixture and the other preparations.
Anotherpreparation which might be tried
for dowTiy mildew is made as follows:
Dissolve 5 pounds of alum in 3 or 4 gallons
of boiling water, and then pourthissolution
into a half barrel or tu I) containing sufficient
cold water to make 1.5 gallons. In another
vessel dissolve 4-2 pounds of calcium chloride
in 3 gallons ot cold water. Fioally, pour
the calcium chloride solution slowly into
the alum preparation, stirring constantly to
effect a thorough mixing.
When the two solutions are mixed there
is formed aluminum chloride, potassium
sulphate, and calcium sulphate. It is
claimed that the fungicidal property lies in
the first, while the calcium sulphate facili-
tates its adhesiveness. The potassium sul-
phate is, as every one knows, a fertilizer,
and as it is washed from the leaves it en-
riches the soil.
The news which Prof. Galloway tells us
in regard to thenew spraying pump, is most
gratifying. We ourselves have for a long
time been appealing to manufacturers for a
cheap, portable spraying apparatus, but in
vain. The drawback to the machines here-
tofore existing, was their great cost. The
Section ot Mycology, as well as ourselves,
has felt this need of a cheap, serviceable and
effective apparatus for spraying Grapes and
all the low growing crops. France has for
some time been our chief reliance for these
machines. "The average fruit grower,"
says Prof. (Jalloway, " cannot affort to send
to France tor a machine that will cost him,
laid down in this country, all the way from
*18 to *2."), nor can he pay *21 for a pump
made here, notwithstanding the fact that it
is a most excellent machine and costs almost
the selling price to manufacture it. In short,
a knapsack pump, be it ever so serviceable,
at ■*21 or even *18, is entirely beyond the
reach of the average farmer, gardener and
fruit grower. Consequently he has to rely
upon inferior machines, and as a result, his
treatments are frequently unsuccessful for
the simple reason that the remedies are not
properly applied.
We have had the matter of providing a
cheap and serviceable knapsack pump under
consideration for some time, and can now
positively announce that the machine will
be on the market in a few weeks. The
pumps will be made in two or three styles,
and as there will be no patent on them, we
hope manufacturers throughout the country
will be able to offer them at about *12, thus
placing them within the reach of all."
The Celery and Onion Combination.
To occupy every available inch of space
with a useful crop during the entire season,
is a matter well worthy of every gardener's
earnest attention, for on this achievement
often hinges the question of success or fail-
ure. When one crop is gathered, another
should at once take its place. This is a
method, which not only makes the most of
the land, but also reduces to the very least
the dangers from insects and weeds.
Often we can plant two crops at a time,
the one a quick maturing one, like Radishes,
early Potatoes, .String Beans, early Peas,
Lettuce, etc., to occupy the space which the
other, later, and wider planted one like
Celery, Cabl )age. Cucumber or Squash vines.
Melons, etc.,) does not yet need, and this
other to spread over the whole area after the
fir.st, or catch crop is gathered.
A Massachusetts market gardener makes
a specialty of Onions and Celery in combi-
nation, and it is a very good one. We have
sometimes used a similar combination in
New Jersey. Where the Onion crop had
nearly come to maturity, early in August,
we pulled up every fifth row, letting the
bulbs dry to sell in the regular way, or use
at home, then spade up the ground in this
row a single spade's width, and set some
real good stocky Celery plants six inches
apart in these rows. As the land was well
matured in the spring for the Onion crop,
the Celery would do very well without other
additional fertilizer except a dressing of
some high-grade fertilizer, or wood ashes
strewn along the drill and worked into the
soil before setting the plants.
Our Massachusetts friend's method slight-
ly varies from ours. When sowing his
Onion seed, he leaves every seventh row
blank, in which row he pricks in Celery
plants twelve inches apart. The Onions die
down from the 1st to the 10th of September,
which gives ample soil between the Celery
rows to bank it. He manures his land in
the fall by plowing in twenty-five cords of
strawy manure and plows two furrows to-
gether, thereby leaving his land in ridges
which enables the frost and weather to work
upon it, making the soil mellow and fine in
the sprmg. It also enables the water to be
drained off in the dead furrows. Much de-
pends upon the seed if a maximum crop is
desired. He sows in rows thirteen inches
ai)art at the rate of four pounds of seed per
212
POPULAR GARDENING.
July,
acre, with a seed sower, after preparing the
land by smoothing the surface with hand
rakes.
Celery plants are grown by sowing seed
very thickly under glass with a gentle heat
the first of April. As soon as the plants ap-
pear above ground, a frecjuent watering is
required to keep the sun from burning them.
Give them plenty of air and grow them slow
so that by the last week in May to the first
week in July, they will be of size to trans-
plant into blank rows among the Onions.
The quantity of crop of Onions grown as
above, would be from six to seven hundred
bushels, and they should be stored in small
bulk m cellars for winter use.
A Single-Post Grape Trellis.
E. S. GOFF, UNIVERSITY OF WISCONSIN.
Some have advocated the method of train-
ing the vine to a single post on account of
its cheapness. The plan is open to the ob-
jection that the canes when tied closely
about a single post have not sufficient room
in which to expose their foliage to the light,
and to develop their bunches. The method
shown in the accompanying drawing is in-
tended to obviate this objection at a slight
increase in cost.
Strips of board three inches wide and four
feet long are nailed to the post in opposite
directions, and to stifl'en these and protect
the ends of the protruding arms, slender
vertical strips three-fourth by one inch are
added as shown.
In training the vines for this trellis, a
single cane is grown the first season which
is cut back pretty low in autumn. The
second year two canes are trained up, each
of which is cut back in the fall to two buds.
The third year, four canes are grown, and if
the vine has done well these are allowed to
bear two bunches each.
In the autumn of the third year these
canes are cut back to, not to exceed, two
feet in length, and serve as bed canes for the
next year. At the close of this season these
are cut back to the cane nearest the fork of
the trunk, which cut off at two feet long
serves as the bed cane for the next year.
The length of the bed canes is of course
regulated by the strength of the vine, but
it does not exceed two feet. The growth of
spurs near the forks of the trunk is en-
couraged to develop future bud canes.
If the vines are planted eight feet apart
both ways, and the arms of the trellis ex-
ft.
of the vine. The method has the advantage
of favoring a free circulation of air through
the vineyard in all directions.
Damming Ravines and Furrowing
Fields for Soil Saving.
JUDGE 8. MILLER, MONTGOMERY CO., MO.
One metereological problem puzzles me
more than any other, and that is why the
Sinyle Post TrcUix in Orapery.
tended diagonally, as shown in the second
drawing, there will be a space five feet wide
for cultivation extending in both directions.
Each vine, though it has eight feet of
trellis of which both sides are exposed to
the light, occupies a space only three feet
square, and this area can be mostly reached
with the smoothing harrow, as it is only
obstructed by the single post and the trunk
Single Post Orape Trellis.
rains that fall, and without which vegeta-
tion could not exist, must come down in
torrents, causing floods and washouts, carry-
ing away good soil into the streams where
lost, instead of falling gently so as to all go
into the ground and then come out in
springs? But so it is, and in the eyes of the
great Creator seems good. That the lands
denuded of the primeval forests, and in cul-
tivation are more subject to this, we all
know; but even the forests, where hilly, are
by no means exempt from it.
Here in this hilly country, where nearly
all the forests yet remain, there are gullies
washed out, and the leaves, logs and small
branches of trees that fall to the ground,
come tearing down the ravines at a fearful
rate. On the 12th of May we had a terrible
hail storm and a rain that flooded every-
thing. A new Strawberry patch planted
a few weeks before had gutters washed
out that a man could lie down in and be
almost hidden. My garden, which is
nearly level, was like a lake, and all the
work and planting must be done over.
My intention was to make a ditch across
the upper part of the garden, and also
on the upper side of the new Strawberry
patch. The latter was attended to by a
drain from each end with a pond dug in
the middle. It was not done two days too
soon, as another rain came down as if the
flood gates of Heaven were opened, and
but for my drain and pond all the work
of filling up the gutters would have
again been undone.
This pond above my new Strawberry bed
will furnish water to use on the plants if it
gets dry. Hut there is a bigger job on hand.
It is the draining of the ravines in the hills,
and digging wells so as to hold back the
suriilus of water. Two years ago my sous
undertook to make a dam a few hundred
yards above my house where the ravine is,
about 50 feet wide and si.\ feet high. They
thought they understood what they were
about, and would not take advise, but the
first heavy rain showed them their error.
There is only one way to stay these floods,
and that is to make the dam strong enough.
Where the timber is plenty like here, it is
a simple matter. The first thing is to get
down to a solid clay in the bottom of the
ravine; then dig a sloping cut on each side
of the bank at an angle of about 7(1°, dig it
mto the bank two feet. Now cut timbers;
they should be 8 to 13 inches in diameter;
let them fit from bank to bank and lay as
close as the straight run of the timber will
permit. The cuts in the bank must lean
down stream so as to give the fall of the
waters, which should be some feet from the
base, or it will wash out the bottom.
When the proper height has been attained,
pack the clay tight around the ends of the
timbers, and set a triangle of heavy timbers
to support the middle. Next split timber
about the size of those used for cross pieces
into quarters, and put one in the angles of
the logs; nail or spike fast. After this is done
let all the good soil be thrown up to the
height of the breast, and use it on some
other place; it will pay. Dig into the clay
bank and transfer some to stamp in the
cracks between the logs. The thickness of
breast of the dam .should be at least as much
in feet as the dam is high, and should be at
the upper side at an angle of about 30°.
This should be trodden down with horses
passing back and forward, so as to pack
tight. If the latter part of the banking is
made by the clay out of a well dug in the
middle it will be all the better, as the well
will hold a quantity if made six feet in
diameter and eight or ten feet deep, which
can be thrown out by hand and shovel, and
not need a windlass.
I have seen water in such a well, and the
ground at the base of the dam, and every-
thing growing where all else around was
parched to death. How much of this I will
get done this season is hard to tell, but at
least some. One operation has already been
done that saves us an acre of our best land
from overflow, costing about five dollars.
How many of our readers will try this
and give us their experiences? Where a
ravine is fifty feet across at the highest
part, and the timbers close by, it can be
dammed for ten or fifteen dollars. In the
fields which are subject to washing, a fur-
row or furrows leading into ponds easily
dug, will save much good soil, from being
lost forever.
When the ponds get full of soil, the water
can be drawn off, and the good soil hauled
out on .some poor place. Here it has just
come to this: that something of the kind
must be done, or we must abandon growing
anything but grass on our hills. These
ponds, dams and wells will furnish moisture
in the air and considerably aid the life of
plants during some of the protracted
droughts so common in some parts of the
west. On the breast of these dams Willow
trees can be planted, which will in a few
years make them proof against leakage.
Western New/ York Fruit Growers.
ilieport 11/ meeting of the Western New York Hurttcul
tural Sueiety, eontlnued from page 143.)
The Newer Strawberries. The horti-
culturist of the New York Experiment
Station, in relating last season's experience
with 80 varieties on the station grounds,
mentions that the matted rows have given
not only a larger yield but also larger berries
than rows kept on the stool plan.
Among the various varieties the following
are favorably mentioned : Bubach, vigor-
ous and productive ; Crawford, the very
latest, of flrst-class quality, and an acquisi-
tion; Daisy may take the place of Crescent
in many sections ; Hoffman, a good shipper
and keeper ; Ivanhoe, promising ; Lida,
stocky .and an enormous oearer; Middlerteld
one of the good new ones. For market
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
213
the foUowinij; are reconinieml: ITotTinan and
Haverland. Daisy, liubach and Crawford.
Dwarf vs. Siand.mid Pk.vu.s. The di.s-
cussions on comparative value of standard
and dwarf Pears showed considerable
diversity of opinion. On tlie whole, the
friends of dwarf trees had the best of it.
Mr. 15ogue says that more money is made
in Genesee County from dwarfs than from
DEVICE FOR HOLDING BASS.
standards: on heavy soil well cultivated and
highly manured. Duchess heads the list
of varieties.
Mr. Willard also decides in favor of the
dwarf for Ontario County. They bring
more clean money than the standards and
last a generation. There are more varieties
suited for dwarfing than is commonly sup-
posed. Howell is profitable; Kieffer, when
double-worked on Quince, is trump. Mr.
Smith ( Syracuse ) says that Kietf er does
as well directly on Quince as double-worked.
Strong clay loams give better and larger
fruit from dwarfs, while on light soil
standards do better. The majority of Pears
do well on Quince in clay soil. Mr. Rupert
advises to plant the dwarf deep ; Quince
stock should be four inches below the sur-
face of ground.
Mr. Willard says, Pears, whether dwarfs
or standards, pay anyway, and probably
400 per cent as much as grain. There is very
little danger of our overdoing Pear culture.
Prof. Bailey, however, puts in the timely
warning that it depends mostly on the man
himself. If a person plants standards, he
will have some truit anyway, but if he will
take care of his trees he can plant dwarfs
Mr. W. C. Barry is in favor of dwarfs on
account of their early fruiting, and their
habit of bearing from the ground up. The
notion that dwarfs are short-lifed is false.
If properly planted, so that roots will be
emitted from above the Quince stock,
making the tree a so-called " half standard,"
it lasts a long time. Pronounces Anjou the
best of all Pears. Takes more pleasure in
an orchard of Anjon than in any other fruit
he has. Standards should be set on warm
sandy soil.
Mulberry as Fruit. Mr. Hooker calls
it a good tree, and a pleasant fruit. Mr.
Willard considers Downing (Everbearing) a
desirable fruit, but not profitable for mar-
ket. Mr. Smith says it is profitable to grow
for birds, as it saves Cherries. A large tree
will probably bear ten bushels of fruit. Mr.
Barry recommends the native Mulberry as
a very good one for this purpose. It should
be grown more in our gardens.
Spratixg Trees. No voice is raised
against this practice. Prof. Bailey argues
that some trees should be left unsprayed to
serve as a comparison for the effectiveness
of the spray. The best check, however, is to
spray all your own trees, and compare
results with those on your nciglilior'.^ un-
sprayed trees.
Scraping Trees. In answer to the ques-
tion: Is it of advantage to take off the rough
bark of Apple trees, Mr. Rupert says this
practice destroys insects, especially if fol-
lowed up with a wash of soap suds. Mr.
Hooker says it destroys a hiding place of
the codlin moth, but it also destroy.s a coat
(if protection. Mr. Root calls the practice
■' more nice than wise."
I'EAR Scab. Prof. Bailey says the disease
i."^ caused by a fungus. Hyposulphite in a
solution of half ounce to ten gallons of
water sprayed on the trees will destroy one-
half of the scab. But there is no absolute
remedy known for it yet. The general ex-
perience of the members seems to indicate
that Pears and Apples on high ground are
less affected than on low ground.
Plums for Profit. The question is
what varieties, and how many of each to
plant for an orchard of 1,000 trees. Mr.
Ingraham says he would plant 1,000 Lom-
bard , which is in opposition to Mr. Willard's
ideas, who would not put all eggs in one
basket, and while planting largely of Lom-
bard, would plant, besides, Hudson River
Purple Egg, French Damson, Prince of
Wales, Peter's Yellow Gage (one of the best
of the yellows, and only offered by Ellwan-
ger and Barry of Rochester), and the more
tender Reine Claude in favorable positions.
The Plum will do well on clay, but should
have dry feet. The hardiest Plum of its
kind is Union Purple, and a good early fruit.
Evergreens for Windbreak.s. As the
best and most rapid grower Prof. Bailey
names Norway Spruce ; Mr. Root, Austrian
Pine ; Mr. Hooker, Norway Spruce and
Scotch Pine. Altogether the Norway Spruce
seems to be the favorite of the majority.
Western Apples. Some fruit growers
of Western New York seem to fear that they
may be overcome by western competition.
Prof. Bailey tries to demonstrate that these
fears are groundless. The Apples west of
New York do not export so well as Apples
from here. The transport expenses to the
sea shore are also higher. Michigan Apples
are fine, but not so firm. Mr. W. C. Barry
says he has never seen fruit anywhere as
fine as that grown in Western New York.
Mr. Chas. A. Green, however, puts in a word
of timely warning and caution. The Wes-
tern New York fruit grower, he thinks, has
found competitors in the westand he should
prepare to meet them.
Brook's Letter. Maj. Hugh T. Brooks,
now a resident of Arkansas, has sent one of
his characteristic communications. Health
and strength, he writes, are primary condi-
tions of success in horticulture. His recipe
for keeping or regaining these invaluable
blessings ( health and strength ) can not be
endorsed too strongly. Here it is : 1. Put
out the coal stoves and furnaces, and burn
wood in open fire places. 2. Avoid thin
shoes. 3. Wear plenty of wool. 4. Eat
only two meals a day, a light lunch between
only being admissable, and don't eat too
much. .5. Don't worry, (i. Adopt clothing
to the weather. 7. Think of the blessings
of l)eing engaged in an occupation that
benefits mankind, of being in open air with
bloom and fragrance about you, not in
closed, poisoned rooms etc.
Next Mr. Brooks speaks of the one great
obstacle to successful fruit culture, which
is starvation. If the starving trees could
squeal like hungry pigs. Bedlam would be
let loose. Animals do best on a well-select-
ed, well-balanced ration. So do all the
members of the vegetable kingdom, es-
pecially when fine flavors are wanted. The
best fruit pays the best, the poor does not
pay at all. This is an old experience.
In orchard culture Apple trees often yield
four to five barrels; single trees ten to 20
barrels : yet the average is only one barrel
to the tree. The large yield always comes
from the best-fed orchard. The increasing
demand for fruit in towns is a terrible drain
upon the soil. Where are the trees going
to get the needed raw materials?
In regard to insect enemies, Mr. Brooks
thinks the liord made worms to prevent the
lazy and shiftless to enjoy real good fruit.
Device for Holding Bass and Other
Tying Materials.
Horticultual supply stores in Germany of-
fer at about 13 cents each the device here
illustrated for holding and carrying any
kind of tying material, especially bass in
budding, or strings already cut in the prop-
er length for the special purpose desired.
The little contrivance is made of strong
brass wire, with spring enough to firmly
hold whatever tying material is put between
the jaws, may this be much or little. A
little hook on top serves to suspend the
whole thing from a button hole. Altogether
the device looks like a good thing.
Boxes and Crates with Springs.
One of the great difficulties with which
the fruit grower has heretofore been con-
fronted, is the rough usage which some of
his perishable and frail products have been
and are exposed when in the hands of trans-
portation agencies. No matter what pains
the shipper may have taken with his fruit,
and how nicely it may appear when first
given to the carriers, nobody knows how it
will appear after the shaking up and throw-
ing about which it is likely to be exposed to
before being placed before the would-be
purcha.ser and con sumer.
This is why we look with so much satis-
factiou upon
every effort
towards the im-
provement of
shipping crates
and boxes, which
aim at safer trans- j^^ ,, ^y,,,, ji„j, ^jm spring
portation by Handle.
means of doing away with part of the jar,
shake-ups and hard knocks.
The use of springs is really the first thing
that should suggest itself in such an emer-
gency, but it is only very recently that some
of our fruit growers have hit upon this idea.
We were quite pleased with the " Star Spring
Box" exhibited by Dr. Van Dusen at the
last meeting of the Western New York
Horticultural Society. The wire handle of
each box, in packing and transit, serves the
purposes of a spring real well, no matter in
what position the crate may be. Such a box
adapted for putting up Grapes, Cherries'
Plums and similar fruits, is shown in the
accompanying illustration, Fig. 1. In Pig.
3 we illustrate Spencer's Improved Berry
Crate, which is
provided with
springs in the
bottom of the
crate, and upon
which the fruit
rests after the
crate is filled.
Thus, obviating
all injury from
Fig. 2. Berry Crate with Springs. dowOWard jars.
Altogether, we think that the efforts
for discovering improved devices for the
purpose of securing safety in transporta-
tion, should not yet stop here.
1,89.5. Bepotting Camellias. There are two
seasons when Camellias may be repotted, says an
Ensrlish writer. This is either just as the plants
have finished blooming, or towards the end of
the summer, when the blossom-buds are set. I
have repotted at both seasons with about equal
results. The best time to pot Azaleas is in spring,
as soon as the fiowering is over. All this clas-s of
plants must be potted firmly, ramming the soil
mto the pot with a round-headed stick, slightly
ftattened at the sides.
1,9^2. Planting Bush Beans. If snap Beans
are the ob.iect. the early varieties can be planted
for succession and late u.se as late .July in your
latitude. For dry shelled Beans we would pre-
fer to plant in June.
214
POPULAR GARDENING.
July,
Amaryllises and their Culture.
The Amaryllis is a noble genus of biilbniis
plants, of which there are now many splen-
did named varieties in cultivation. They
may be grown either in the greenhouse or
the window garden, and are not diflBcult to
manage, the great secret being to give them
alternately a season of growth and season of
repose. The colors range from the deepest
crimson scarlet to almost pure white. Very
often the centre of the flower is entirely dis-
tinct In color from the other parts, as for
instance a white center in a crimson flower
or a rosy scarlet center in a white flower.
On this, and the opposite page,
are shown two strongly con-
trasting types of the flowers.
The Johnson's Amaryllis a
variety having dark red flowers
with a white stripe down each
segment, is well known to
flower growers, and valued.
All the Amaryllises are of
easy culture, the main require-
ments being that the plants
should be abundantly supplied
with water, heat and light
when they are coming into
flower, and water should be
withheld from them by degrees
when the bloom is over, until
growth has ceased entirely,
after which they should have
plenty of rest. It is the mis-
take of many to suppose it to
be necessary to place them con-
tiguous to the heating apparatus
in the greenhouse, a course
which leads to the severe In-
jury of hundreds of bulbs.
They will be better suited if
kept In any moderately dry
place where the temperature
does not fall below forty-flve
degrees. The foliage will some-
times remain fresh and plump
for a couple of months with-
out water. So long as the
plants are thoroughly at rest,
It matters not whether the
foliage dies away altogether,
or a few leaves remain green
throughout the winter. Bulbs
preserved in the way suggested,
will flower with double the
strength of others maintained
in a high temperature and where it Is in-
tensely dry.
Wintered after the manner outlined, some
kinds may be turned out iuto a warm bor-
der in spring where they will flower; and if
the season be fine, they will mature their
bulbs in time to be taken up at the approach
of frost. If bulbs in pots are kept dry and
dormant during the latter part of the sum-
mer and autumn, they may be lead to bloom
in a warm place in the winter. Indeed, by
having a large stock of bulbs — and a good
strain may easily be grown from seed— a
regular succession of flowers may be had
throughout nearly the entire year.
In pot cultivation, it may be put down as
a rule, that the Amaryllises do better not
to have the roots disturbed frequently; a
fresh pot once in two or three years is
enough, and will grow better plants than
can be accomplished by the annual shift as
so much practiced. But with the bulb thus
in one pot for several years, there must be
good drainage in the pots; rtrst, some pot
sherds packed carefully at the bottom, and
over this some sphagnum or bits of turf be-
fore filling in any soil which then go into
the pot the coarser particles next to the
drainage.
The best season for repotting the main
stock is in the spring, for then the bulbs
should be making their new roots, and these
with having new soil to feed in, will help
along the plant remarkably. It is a good
plan to repot a portion of the stock every
spring, and then not to allow a single flower
on the lot last potted, but to pinch out the
flower buds as soon as they appear. Always
pot firm and always in a substantial loamy
compost. Such a course will be of much
benefit to later crops of bloom.
For growth and bloom, a temperature of
fifty degrees should be given at the start
and which soon after may ascend to sixty or
seventy degrees. From the time the new
leaver appear until after bloom, the plants
should be provided with plenty of water, a
AMARYLLIS, ONE OF THE DARK TYPES.
treatment which is really essential to the
best success of the plant.
How are you Handling the Chrys-
anthemums Now?
T. W. FISHER, WARREN COUNTY, PA.
The months of .lune, July and August,
should be the making time of this flower.
One of the greatest mistakes made by begin-
ners in Chrysanthemum culture, is neglect-
ing to place these plants into the largest
pots soon enough ; failure may often be
traced to this cause — delay in potting.
But the pots must not be too large. It is a
mistake to place weak-growing varieties in
pots which they can never properly fill with
roots ; the aim must be to have the pots well
filled with healthy roots, as the season's
growth matures. Pots 9 inches in diameter
are best suited for the majority of strong
single plants. Some weak-growing varieties,
among the incurved and .Japanese sections,
may have pots one or two inches smaller
in diameter, than for the bulk of the sorts.
If special stress is laid upon having all
pots of uniform size, then two plants of the
weaker-growing sorts may be .set in each.
Chrysanthemum plants should be repotted
firmly, using .soil that is quite rich, for much
growth must be made in a short period. In-
deed, the soil can scarcely be rammed too
hard at the final shift. If the soil to be used
is naturally heavy, it should be lightened by
the addition of sand, charcoal, ashes, or de-
cayed leaves. The growth may at first not
be so strong from a closely firmed soil, but
the growth later will be more solid, and the
quality of the flowers be higher than if
loose potting is practiced.
Many a collection of Chrysanthemums has
been spoilt at this early stage, through mis-
management of training. Where plants are
grown after the more natural way of train-
ing—that is, allowing them to grow from
the cutting untopped, in which case the
first natural break into additional branches
generally takes place the latter part of May,
or early in June, the manage-
ment is easy enough. If the
first flowers are the object, the
side branches should be re-
stricted to three of the strong-
est, removing all other shoots.
The new growth as it pro-
ceeds, should be supported by
stakes, one to each main shoot,
placing those of the side
branches midway between the
plant and the pot. By spread-
ing out the branches in this
way, sturdy growth is made
during the summer which be-
comes more solidified as it pro-
ceeds, owing to the thorough
light and air each separate
branch obtains over the plan
of tying the three stems to a
central stake. Disbudding the
shoots on later laterals is
more easily accomplished in
this manner, and mildew is far
less liable to attack the leaves,
as It is when the leaves are
huddled together.
The position in summer Is
important. What is required,
is, that the plants receive the
sun and stiU be protected from
winds. Wind may cause a
serious check to the tender
growth ; although the plants
may not be so seriously injured
as to be broken. Cold winds
also prevent that quick start
into a new growth after pot-
ting, so desirable to establish
the plants in their new quar-
ters. A good plan is to arrange
one row on each side of a
garden path, as there they obtain the whole
Sim's influence. Where the plants must
stand in a block, good space must be allowed
between the rows.
Many fail in watering at this season.
After potting, too much water can easily be
given to the roots, which causes the soil to
become sour and stagnant before the roots
can possibly have taken possession of it.
If the soil was moist when potting was per-
formed, the plants will not require water to
the roots for a day or two, except the sun be
very powerful, or a strong dry wind prevails.
Much better is it to syringe the leaves of the
plants twice dally until the new roots are
running into the fresh compost. Afterwards
much care should be exercised in allowing
sufficient water, and no more. Rapping the
sides of the pots with the knuckles is the
surest means of judging of the require-
ments. The size of the pots, vigor of each
variety, and position the pl.ants occupy, all
influence the supply. During hot days in
summer, three times is not too often to
apply water to the roots in some instances,
while others will need no more than two ap-
plications. The quality of the water is
important. When a supply of rain water is
obtainable, much less trouble is necessary,
and better results obtainable generally.
During bright weather, the plants should
be vigorously syringed in the evening of
such a day. It cleanses the leaves from dust
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
215
aud refreshes the jilants after a hot day.
Insects are sometimes troublesome at this
season, renderini; a sharper outlook neces-
sary, and tlie applying of i)rompt measures
to secure (juick eradication, which is easily
done if time is taken hy the forelock, pro-
crastination being not tolerated, (ireen and
black tly are easily got rid of by dusting
the parts affected with Tobacco powder;
niiUlew by the use of flowers of sulphur
sprinkle<l on the alfected parts twice— if
once is not enough. A small grub which is
secreted between the two skins of the leaves,
burrowing away until the
leaves are so distignred in ap-
pearance that their complete
removal is requisite can only
be hand-picked. The leaves
nearest the soil are those gener-
ally tirst attacked, and if not
at once checked, the whole
stem for two feet upwards is
quickly destroyed in appear-
ance by the loss of foliage.
blossoming is much prolonged. When an-
nuals are well cared for, they are not the
weedy things too often seen.
Fuchsias in Summer.
.V Fuchsia in perfection is always attrac-
tractive, yet really good specimens are
comparatively rare. No stunted, starved
Fuchsia will ever give satisfaction, and un-
less the plant is given rich soil, sufficient
moisture and partial sunshine, it would not
pay to grow it.
To those, who have seen noble specimens
The Season of Annual
Flowers.
One might suppose from the
excessive use of bedding plants
in all town gardens, that f\\'
annual flowers were in bad
repute, with most cultivators,
not to say that hardy perenni-
als were lightly esteemed. The
writer of this, last season met
a garden almost wholly depen-
dent upon annuals for bloom,
and which was indeed a charm-
ing place.
All around the large house
and cut into grass was a border
about live feet wide, and which
was allowed to come up to the
main windows. Here on the
walls were trained somewhat
loosely, Roses, Honeysuckles,
Clematis, and Cobiea, which
form a very telling background.
The border was filled with
Dwarf Roses, Pinks, Carna-
tions,and a very pretty arrange-
ment of annuals. The latter
were sown in spring, and well
thinned out, so that each plant
had sufficient space to show its
true character.
The groups were not of one
size, nor was there any plan or
method in their arrangement, nor yet was
any pinching or picking to make any partic-
ular group fit into any particular place ; but
the whole group was free, graceful, and
natural, and the border compared most
favorably with any arrangement of bed-
ding plants. In no other way could so much
variety in color be obtained, and the colors
were so soft and pleasing, and there was .so
much grace in free and unfettered growth.
Among the annuals used were, Phlox
Drummondi, Petunias, Asters, Balsams,
Linum grandiflorum rubrum. Blue Corn-
flowers, Yellow Escholtzias, Dwarf
French Poppies (both single and double in
many colors). Mignonette, Love-in-a-mist
(Nigella hispanica), Calliopsis tinctoria, sev-
eral varieties of annual Chrysanthemums,
Clarkia elegans rosea, Clintonia elegans
(blue). Agrostemma coeli rosea, Brachyconie
iberidiflora, Cacaliacoccinea (Tassel Flower)
Marigold (Meteor), Candytufts in various
colors, Collinsia bicolor, Godetias in sev-
eral varieties, Kaulfussia amelloides (blue),
Leptosiphon in variety. Nasturtium (Tom
Thumb) in variety, Nemophila insignis,
Sweet Peas, Sanvitalia procumbens flore-
pleno. Dwarf German Scabiosa, etc.
When each plant has room to get strong,
it has a greater length of life, and if, in ad-
dition, the seeds are picked ofi, the season of
AMARYLLIS, ONE OF THE LIGHT TYPES.
growing as high as eight feet, and loaded
with handsome foliage and flowers, says our
correspondent, W'. F. Lake, in Country
Gentlemen, no word is needed to convince
them that they are worth the extra care
necessary to attain this size, being far su-
perior to smaller plants.
In growing these large specimens, cut-
tings, which should be rather short shoots,
may be taken off at the end of August or
early in .September, and as soon as they
have formed roots, should be potted at first
in pots not over three inches in diameter,
placing them in rather a warm position for
a time. When the plants have nearly filled
the pots with roots, shift, using the next
size larger. The main cause of "scrubby"
Fuchsias, is allowing them to become pot-
bound in the early period of their growth,
and at no time, until bloom is desired should
the roots be allowed to become pot-bound.
As summer-bedding plants in a shady lo-
cation, Fuchsias possess strong merits. If
the soil be light and rich they will make
surprisingly vigorous growth, and, as in the
case of all bedding plants, the foliage and
flowers will be decidedly improved in color
and substance.
Care should be taken that the plants are
not exposed to strong winds, as the fragile
flowers are easily Injured and the buds
knocked off, or whipped about so they will
be ragged or torn, if those left are open.
Watering in the dry sea.son should not be
overlooked, and should be applied in a thor-
ough manner, soaking ground clear to
bottom of roots.
As to the matter of the best varieties for
summer bloom, one can hardly go amiss in
selecting the most beautiful ones, if the
plant is of a strong-growing habit, this
being the main thing to look for. unless one
is well versed in plant lore.
A very interesting sort is F. fnhiins,
which is a bulbous variety, dies
down in the fall, and has a
tuber which may be wintered
as we keep Gladioli and
Dahlias. The flowers are pro-
duced in panicles and are very
slender, and from one to four
inches long. This variety is
started early in pots, and
afterward set in open ground,
comes into bloom at a time
when there is usually a scarcity
of flowers in the garden, and
never falls to attract attention
from its peculiar shape of
flowers.
Considerable interest may be
derived in growing the Fuchsia
from seed, and watching the
different characteristics of the
plant as they come into flower,
and in fact, during the whole
period of their growth. Very
good varieties may be secured
from seeds taken from the
fruit-like balls on your own
plants, which will follow if the
flowers are not picked off, the
seed being found inside of the
reddish purple fruit. This
should be sown in boxes in
heat and the seedlings pricked
into thumb-pots, after they
have formed the second pair of
leaves. If kept growing, will
usually flower the first season.
When Fuchsias are forced
for winter they seldom amount
to anything the following
summer, unless taken from the
pots after they have finished,
all the soil shaken off and
replaced again in smaller pots
in a rich soil and watered spar-
ingly until well started again.
Treated in this way, they will usually
flower again in late summer or early fall,
sometimes continuing up till winter very
profusely.
1,782. Pruning the Pear for Frnit. The Pear,
if a young tree, may be rendered fruitful by root
pruning at the proper season. All long shoots
that grow during the coming summer should be
shortened at the end of July to about fl\e leaves,
at the winter pruning tbey should be further cut
back to about three inches: tlii.'. will aid in the
formation of fruit spui-s. It the trees are in
orchard, the only pruning that should be at-
tempted is that of keeping the head open so as
tu allow of the free passage of the sunlight, for
tlif trees will produce fruit when they have at-
tained a suitable age. Old trees are often cut
back so as to encourage new growth, which in
its turn brings increased fruitf ulness. To cut
liack any tree that is iu healthy growth means a
more vigorous growth still the following season.
— W. H. Smith, La.
1,78.3. Eucharie Amazonica. This is a stove
plant, and to enable it to [iroduee its flowers, a
temperature of about 80° during the day and 75°
during the night is required, with an abundance
of moisture both at the roots and in the atmos-
phere. A temperature of not less than f)H° is re-
quired to keep it during the winter. After it
has flowered and the leaves aie perfected, water
may lie ^withheld until the leaves Bag, when it
should receive a watering, and this treatment
-lionlri be given for a month or six weeks. Once
in threeyears is often enough to repot.— W. H.
Smith, La.
2l6
POPULAR GARDENING.
July,
Morning-CIorles.
*' Red and purple Morning-glories,
Lightly swaying in the breeze,
you seem filled with fairy stories :
Won't you tell them to me, please ?
" Little maid, we have no stories.
True or fairy, new or old.
We are liut laughing Morning-glories
For your pretty hands to hold !
St. NichoUis.
If the June Rose could guess
Before the sunbeam wooed her from the bud.
And reddened int^ life her faint young blood.
What blight should fall upon her loveliness.
What darlcness of decay , what shroud of snow-
Would the Rose ever blow ?
Atas, and yet ala^s,
For glory of existence that shall pass !
For pride of beauty and for strength of song I
Yet were the untried life a deeper wrong.
Better a single throb of being win.
Than never to have been I
Kate Putnam Osgood.
Annual Finks like saQd.v soil,
A clean tranlon is a pleasure garden,
Fortnlaccas are Sun-flowei's in truth.
Sow seeds "t perennials as soon as ripe.
Have yon tried tlie new Zebra Zinnias V
Asters like lieh feed and plenty to drink.
The Salsify is a handsome Moorainf? plant.
The Water Lilies also are glorious tiowers,
Fnblic Parks aie atipreciated more and more.
A fine Elm tree was appraised at $900 in Uuffalo
latel.v.
Our handsomest tree : a young Colorado Blue
Spruce.
Thin the Feaches, if you have any to thin; and
do it soon.
Blackberries excel all other small fruits for
tine bloom.
Fine beds with little trouble; those of self-
sown Petunias and Poppies.
Charcoal and burnt earth are unequalled for
Kiving sweetness and porosity to soil.
Ko import duty on plants— that seems to be
the sentiment of the great mass of tioiists.
Did the common Quince reach us as a new tree,
it would be highly and justly praised for its
fine blooming iiualities.
The discarded Strawberry patch may be made
to yield yet a good crop of Potatoes, Celery,
Turnips, Spinach, or Sweet Corn.
A Text for Bose Growers. Lirjuid or any other
manure is only of use when the plant i.s in full
growth and health, at all other times it is poison.
After all that can be said for the winter beauty
of Evergreens (conifers), these same trees, when
in their young spring growth, match any others
for fine effect.
For a large lawn the horse mower is the tool ;
that which is hard work for a man, is light work
for a horse, and that too when more than double
the width of swath is cut by the latter,
" Mignonette when rightly treated, becomes a
perennial," says a certain writer. Yes but few
care thus to grow it when it can be raised so
quickly to a flowering size from the seed,
Florida phosphate rocks, at least some of them,
are repeated to be much softer and richer than
those of South Carolina, easily ground, and their
plant food partially available without acid
treatment.
That excellent authority, Jlr. George Ellwan-
gcr, pronounces Forest Lawn, Buffalo, next to
Spring Gro\'e at Cincinnati, the finest garden
cemetery in America— and that really means in
the world.
With all the more recent introductions, the
old English Woodbine or Honey suckle LiDnicera
Pcriclymcnum is one our most gratifying
climbers at " Woodbanks." The Bowers are
freely produced, and delightfully scented, and
the growth of the bush very attractive.
Oriental Foppies. what splendid flery blossoms
they are, and so easily grown even on any poor
dry land. The flowers, if cut before they fully
open, will last in good condition several days.
A Tree peddlar has recently found victims in
some of tlie counties of New Jersey. He agreed
to take the next season's crop in pay for his
stock, but nevertheless accepted the farmers'
notes, which, as might have been expected,
turned up in the hands of "innocent purchasers."
Dead Seeds tell no tales. We have our sus-
picions that some high-priced novelties bought
to test on our grounds had been before they
reached us treated for destroying the germ. At
last they did not grow under favorable circum-
stances and when others of the same kind did.
The Insect Powder plant, Pyrethrum roseura,
comes out in full glory on the Popular Garden-
ing grounds and makes a brilliant show at this
time. If entirely hardy, as it seems to be, this
class of plants must be regarded as one of the
most handsome of spi'ing-fiowering perennials of
easy culture.
The Wilson Peach is a new seedling intro-
duced by Chas. Wright, Seaford, Del., under the
claim that it is equal to Reeves' Favorite, or
larger, much more productive, and ripening from
four to five da.vs iti advance of it ; large to very
large, yellow with a red cheek and a free stone;
exceptionally productive on poor sandy soil.
Monstrosities in Evergreens, Of all the sad
sights seen as one drives about our village
streets, the most pitiful is the Evergi-eens shaven
into fantastic forms. If any one desires the
monstrous let them get it carved out of wood,
painted green and set in the yard. It will then
never need trimming, or cost any care.— E,P,P.
A Heavy Bainfall, When it is reported that
in a single night, that of June 4th, niin fell at the
PopuLAH Gardening grounds to a depth of
more than one inch and thi-ee-fourths, and that
this was but one of a series of heavy rains here
during two months following April 1,5th, some
idea may be obtained of how discouraging the
season has been to all planters and tillers of the
soil in these parts,
A delightful syrup, it is said, can be made
from Watermelons by chopping them, pressing
out the juice, and boiling for several hours. The
red coloring matter then coagulates, rises to the
surface, and is skimmed off, when the juice
remains as clear as distilled water and of a pale
amber color. Boiled a little longer, it thickens
into a rich, fruity-flavored syrup, jjerfectiy clear
and the color of t,)uince or Apple jelly.
Bone-Eating Trees The discovery of insect-
eating plants has given rise to some fabulous
yarns about bone-eating trees. Bone-eating
trees will lean over in the night and their
bunches of leaves will close about all flesh, and
bones, and creatures, that are underneath and
devour them. The natives feed them carefully
and fear them. It is not impossible that insect
eating plants have been observed by the natives,
who have exaggerated facts,— B. P. P.
Combination mixtures for plant diseases an<l
insects at ime operation may work all right. We
hojic so; but before ever using Paris green with
the Bordeaux mixture for spraying trees. Grape
vines, Potatoes or anything else, we would like
to find out whether the arsenic is not dis,solved
through the agency of one or the other ingre-
dients in the Bordeaux mixture to such an ex-
tent as to make the whole altogether too risky
for us to use.
Death of Another noted horticulturist, Mr,
Chas. Gibbs of Abbotsford, <.»uebec, who had
been to ("hina and Japan to study the horticult-
ure of those countries, died in Egypt on his way
home, on March 8th of this year, aged 4,') years.
His efforts te discover and introduce into the
colder regions of North America fruits from
East Europe and other parts of the world, that
will endure the climate, have made his name
known far and near. His death is a sad and
irreparable loss to the horticultuie of the north.
Fruits and How to Use Them is the title of a
volume of 240 pages, price $1.W1, by Mrs, Hester
M. Poole, just publislied by Fowler Sc Wells, 7:W
Broadway. New York. A work of this kind has
been needed for some time, and we welcome it ,
heartily hoping that it may aid in promoting the
free use of fruits. The department of recipes
is very complete, beginning with the Apple, for
the pieiiaratiou of which alone nearly 100 differ-
ent ways are given. The information contained
in I his well-written, well-printed and well-
bound work will be a valuable aid for the house
keeper and fruit lover.
Propping trees to assist them in bearing up
under an excessive load without breaking down
is simpl.v an outrage on the tree, and im Nature.
If not interfered with, the overburdened tree
would find relief in letting go part of its branches
with the surplus of fruit. By propping you
refuse this relief, and as a result get a lot of
inferior if not unsalable fruit. The only proper,
just and sensible way of treating the overbur-
dened tree is to relieve it of part of its burden
by thorough thinning, thus enabling the tree to
give you first-class fruit, and all it is able to
bear, and to yield more money than the excess
of poor stuff would bring.
Wooden boxes are decidedly better f(jr many
purposes of plant culture than earthen flower
pots. Plants in them do not dry out so soon as
those in pots fully exposed to the air. and the
boxes provide a more equitable temperature,
being cooler in summer, and warmer in winter.
Boxes are easily made, or obtained from stores
as waste product, and when nicely painted, are
not at all unsightly. Oaken butter tubs, or casks
saweil in halves, are cheap and serviceable for
receiving large bushy, or tree-like plants, and
with a little paint may be made quite ornamental.
Large boxes or tubs may have hooks screwed
into their sides for convenience in handling and
moving. The faculty of flower pots to absorb
water is at least a verj' questionable advantage.
Humming Birds and th<>ir Nests. Did you
ever see a humming liirds nest? I never found
or saw over half a dozen in my life outside of
collections. But if you wish to get back to be-
lieving in fairies you must see one. It is reall.v
the most exquisite little bit of manufacture in
the word. It is among nests just what the hum-
ming bird is among birds. It looks like a bit of
the tree so far as color is concerned, and is deco-
rated or covered with moss. The walls of the
nest arc not only artful but artistic and ipsthctic.
The Moss and Lichens are put on with exquisite
taste something like thatching. I often see a
dozen of these flashes of light and love in m.v
Lilacs at one time; but so skillful are the.v at
hiding that I have hunted almost always in vain
to discover their homes; but when found it is
always by accident.— K. P. P.
The Tradescanthia and Commelinas are closely
allied flowers from Mexico, the former some-
times Vicing known as Flower of a Day. The
species kitown as Tradesciinthia Virginica isb.v
far the best, being a hardy perennial of good
habit and free bloom. It grows from one to two
and a-half feet high and flowers abundantly
during summer. The original type has showy
purple-blue flowers, but there are a number of
varieties, one with double violet, one with single
rose-colored, one with single \"iolet and one with
single white blossoms. There is also the grandi-
flora section represented by a white and blue
flowering variety,
the blooms of
which are of larger
size than those of
the type. All are
well worth grow-
ing in mi.xed bor-
ders of flowers.
They will grow in
any soil, even in
heavy clay. Prop-
agatetl by division
in the spring.
The Weeping
Sophora- This is a
beautiful and use-
ful weeping tree.
Mr. F. L. Temple
gives the following
method of produc-
ing tall, clean un-
branched stocks of six to nine feet in height, in
one season, for top-working with the weeping
variety. The Sophora will grow extremely fast
in a close, moist place. In spring, after the
greenhouses are emptied, dormant Sophoras,
about thiee- fourths of an inch in diameter, arc
planted in the earth bottom of the liousc, which
should be made fairly rich; cut them back to the
crown, and set them one foot apart each way,
and by December 1st, they will be out of the
top of the house and as smooth as Willows. Then
lift, and keep them protected in a cellar or
frame, or heel them in deep in a well-drained
place till spring, when they can be planted in
nursery rows and grafted at the same time with
good results.
Flower of Commclina.
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
217
Remedies forinsoits mid plant liisriiscswitlidiit
nnnilit'i- are liclni; ipcommcuiliMl by prai-tiial
siiil-tllliM-s in itodil faitli, lait when put t<i a
iiitiial trst, must of these provo utloiiy witluiiit
\alni'. WluMi a period of attaek l>y eillier enemy
was alxiiit ended, just as the supposed remeily
was applied, tlie latter is naturally (tiven ttic
eivclit for the iraproveraent. An instance has
reeently eome to our notloe wheiv one part of a
\ine.\ard was sprayed witli eopper solution for
mildew and rot, while another part was left
withoiit treatment. A few days after, the
weather eensins to be favorable to the develop-
ment of these diseases, they niaile no further
projrn-as, but the improvement was alike marked
on the treated and untreated vines, showin;;
that tlie applications deservoil no credit for the
improvcnt, which would undoubtedly have
iK-en Ki\pn to them, if the whole vineyard had
been treated.
Flnneinp the Potted Plants, nne of the best
methods of pi-evc-nf inji jilants in pot.s sufTerinK
from drouth is to plunirc them. In Rood plant-
prowiuK estalilishments plunging, both under
glass and in the open air, is largely resorted to.
It saves labor in watering, as plunged plants do
not reiiuirc water so often as those with the pots
e.xp'ised to the sun and air, and while the pots
may become so hot and dry in the latter case as
to injure the roots which eome in contact with
them, this never occurs with |>lungcd plants. As
a rule we plunge all our f'hrysanthemums.
Last year tor some reason we did not do so, ami
the result w»s the poorest we ever had. Few-
plants suffer more from having their pots e.x-
IKLsed than Azaleas, but when plunged they may
lie kept healthy without any dilTiculty. It is
not always possible to plunge pots in green-
houses and shelves in houses, but if a board or
some screen is put up to shade the pots from the
sun it will pro\e a great advantage.
Smilax from Seed This is very easily grown,
but slow of germination. To hasten the process
I scrape one side of each seed until it looks while
then plant in soil that has been sifted, and place
in a shelf behind a stove until the plants appear,
when they should have the sun. It is essential
that the soil be kept constantly moist, nntil the
.seed germinate, after that it must be allowed to
become dry after each watering, or the young
plants will damp off. I'se a shallow box for seed,
and pot as soon as plants are large enough to
handle. When each vine has reached a yard in
length, trim off near the surface of soil and new
vines will stjirt up from the root. If one chooses
to follow this method, Smilax can be kept grow-
ing the year round. It likes a firm rich soil, and
muck seems best suited to it, but leaf mold and
manure may be used when the former is not
jirocurable. When growing vigorously, the
plants should be repotted often, each pot one-
size larger, as the roots require considei-able
room.— ilfi's. K. L. P., Crawford Co., Pa.
The Burning Fraxinella. The Fraxinella
{Uietainiiiia fraxineUa) is a strongly-scented
perennial plant with rigid, erect-growing stems
from 30 to 2t inches in height, and dark green
leaves which very much resemble those of the
Ash. Easily propagated from seed, the |ilant
must be three years old before it will Hower. It
is a native of Germany. When rubbed, the
leaves emit an odor somewhat like Lemon peel.
A most singular phenomenon i.s connected with
this plant. The glandular hairs abounding on it,
emit a resinous or oily matter, which becomes
volatilized in the air around the plant, and takes
lire when a light is applied to it. This phenom-
enom, however, only occurs in warm, dry
weather, as at the close of a sunny day, and es-
pe<-ially at blooming time. By placing a plant
of Fraxinella in bloom under a bell-glass, and
leaving it there for some time, the air in the bell-
glass will be found so highly charged with the
resinous gas, that it ignites the moment a lighted
match is applied. It does so without apparent
injury to the plant.
Fruit Acids. The grateful acid of the Rhubarb
leaf arises from the malic acid and bin-oxalate
of potash which it contains ; the acidity of the
Lemon, Orange, and other species of the genus
('((ni-i is caused by the abundance of citr.c acid
which their juice contains; that of the Cherry,
Plum, Apple, and Pear from the malic acid in
their pulp; that of Grooseberries and Currants,
black, red, and white, from a mixture of malic
and citric acids; that of the Grape from a mix-
ture of malic and tartaric acids; that of the
Mango from citric acid and a very fugitive
essential oil ; that of the Tamarind from a mix-
t\irc of citric, malic, and tartaric acids; the
llavor of Asparagus from aspartic acid, I'oiuid
also in the root of the Marshmallow ; and that
t>f the Cut-umber from a peculiar poisonous in-
gredient called fugin, which is found in all fungi
and is the cau.so of the Cucumber being offensive
to some stomachs. It will be oliserved that
Khubarb is the only fruit whii;h ci>ntains bin-
oxalate of ]H)tiish in conjunction with an acid.
It is this ingedient whit;h renders this fruit so
wholesome at the early commencement of the
summer, and this is one of the wise provisions
of Nature for supplying a blood-purifier at a
time when it is likely to be most needed.— Jo?iri-
xnn'.f ChimlMrii iif tlir IVorM.
Pyramid of Lycopodiam, Our subsciber Ervin
llaltman sends us a sketch of such a pyramid,
and which is recommended as a pretty and novel
object in any plant
house. The form oti
which the Lycopodium
{L.dentata) is grown,
consists of a mixture
of Sphagnum and rich
turfy loam of which
the former makes a
large part, sai<l mixture
being then bound to a
stick or placed in a wire
frame of i)yramidal
form and which rests
on similar material in a
pot beneath. Into this
form rooted cuttings of
Lycopodium are then
pricked with a dibble,
to stand closely togeth-
er. By keeping the pot
in a congenial atmos-
phere and supplying
plenty of moisture it
requires but a short
time after planting un-
til there is a perfect
pyramid of delightful
green foliage of Lycopodiiuu.
Drying Flowers in their Natural Colors. The
following method is to be credited to Dr. Schoen-
land : Take two pints of a saturated solution of
sulphurous acid in water; add to this one pint of
methylated spirit. Keep this mixture in a wide-
mouthed bottle, so tightly closed that the cort-
tents do not evaporate. Leave ordinary flowers
in this mixture for about ten to twenty minutes ;
inflorescences of Bromeliaceiv and Aroideiv must
be left in it about one hour. In most cases the
color will completely disappear, but it will grad-
ually return during the process of drying, or
even after the plants have become apparently
quite dry. Having treated the specimens with
the mixture, take them out and shake off the
adhering drops of fluid. Leave the plants in a
dry warm place, in ordePto dry them supertci-
ally ( they must not be allowed to shrivel ), and
then dry them in the usual way between blotting
paper. If artificial heat is used in the latter
part of the process, excellent results are obtain-
ed, and it is not even necessary to change the
drying paper. If hot-water pipes are available
it is very convenient to place on them the bundle
containing the plant to be dried, which need not
be subjected to very great pressure. I often put
them loosely between sheets of vegetable parch-
ment before immersing them in the fluid.
How to Grow the Oleander. Considering the
comparative ease with which the Oleander may
be grown, it should become a fixture in every
home. It seems to especially recommend itself
to those flower lovers who dislike the trouble of
attending to flres on cold winter nights, as a
period of rest is very beneficial, if not absolutely
necessary. This genus is an evergreen, as the
leaves remain on the tree while at rest. It can
be kept in any frost -proof cellar from December
until April, and will be covered with buds when
brought to the light. Such is my experience, at
least. The roots will need watering but once or
twice during its rest. Cuttings must be rooted'
in water and a small, wide-mouthed bottle is most
convenient for this purpose. Wrap the bottle
with brown paper as the roots are less brittle if
kept darkened, place where it will get the warm-
est rays of the sun and supi>ly fresh water as it
evaporates. The Oleander should be trimmed
in the desired form immediately after flowering
and then only as later pruning will destroy the
following year's supply of bloom. It is also a
good time to strike cuttings if one wishes them
to bloom when one year old. As soon as rooted,
cuttings may be potted in a compost of flne
loam, well rotted manure and muck, and given
an occasional wat*:ring of weak lime water to
kill earth worms. Put a piece of fresh lime the
size of one's fist in a galUm of water, use when
settled, taking care not to get it on the foliage. —
Mrx. E. L. Patterson, Crawford Co., Pa.
Chat About the Use of Flowers.
Where Climbing Koses are abundant no finer
ornament for the table can be imagined than
clusters of these on long shoots, placed in vases
to stand out well above an abundance of foliage.
Wild Ferns now arc abundant. A simple glass or
wide-mouthed vase filled with these presents a
remarkable cool and handsome appearance.
This is what city florists call the " silly season "
in the trade. Flowers are painfully cheap; the
market is flooded with out-door blossoms. Dec-
oration Day was observed with more flt)ral
tributes than was expected. A great many plants
were used on this occasion. Experience every-
where this year shows a greater demand for
flowers than for designs. This was the general
rule at Eastertide and Memorial Day. It is rather
an imjirovement, too. In past years a great
many designs at the grave of a great soldier were
in Immortelles, in such pleasing tints as aniline
crimsoTi, chrome yellow, arsenical green and
vivid purple, and the combinations were calcu-
lated to put an artist into a cold perspiration.
Some very charming effects are produced by the
use of Cape Flowers and Immortelles in their
natural colors, but as a rule dyed Everlastings
are a mistake, if one cares for artistic fitness.
Very elaborate designs, especially funeral
pieces, are often comparatively meaningless.
The writer remembers a case in point, in a west-
ern city. A prominent citizen of the "genus"
"tough" met with an untimely end, the cause
of his taking off being a beer-glass thrown in a
saloon fight. His sorrowing friends wished to oft'er
some mark of their respect in the form of a
floral design. The emblem chosen was a white
lamb, with the word Rest on one side, and Peace
on the other. It ws slightly incongruous.
Florist's flowers are hard pressed just now by
all sorts of field blossoms. The Marsh Buttercups,
so-called, which were sold by the bushel during
April and May, have now given place to the real
Buttercups of the meadow, and the 0.x-eye Daisy.
These two flowers together make an exquisite
harmony of white and gold. They are not only
sold by the street venders, but find their way in
leading flower stores. Outdoor Lilacs are over
in this section, but some fortunate florists get
them down East, where they are at their best.
When any large piece of decorating is done, the
florist depends chiefly upon outdoor stuff. Great
masses of Weigelia and Syringa are most effect-
ive, and Mountain Laurel, with its clusters of
rosy blossoms, finds a place by its sisters of the
garden.
Some people have been trying to re-introduce
the use of taller table decorations, but the sensi-
ble fashion of low plateaus still holds good. It
is a regular nuisance to be obliged to dodge a
lot of tall plants, in order to catch sight of one's
vis-a-vis.
The prettiest table decorations are low banks
of Ferns, with a few selected flowers lightly
placed among them. This is the most advantag-
eous way of showing off Orchids; Cattleyas or
Lielias are exquisite in such a position. It is a
great mistake to mix these flowers with a lot of
other stuff; they are not nearly so striking.
Gloxinias are charming used in the same way;
they show off beautifully banked in any position,
and they come in such exquisite lamplight shades
of pink and porcelain blue. Their use in floral
decorations is comparatively recent.
The prettiest wreaths now made are certainly
those made in-the form of a crescent, with the
ends tied together with ribbon. They are ex-
quisite when made only of Ivy leaves, with a
knot of flowers, or, in the case of an aged per-
son, a bunch of Wheat on one side. The Ivy
leaves are well washed, and then slightly oiled,
giving them a brilliant gloss.
Bouquets show no new departures so far;
they are still big pyramidal nosegays. We are
told that corsage bunches will not be so large,
but it still appears the custom for each lovely
creature to wear as big as she can obtain. By
the way, there is a new patent fastening for
corsage bouquets which is very convenient. It
is built on the same plan as a safety pin, but in-
stead ot a straight bar it fastens into a spiral
spring strong enough to hold the flowers in
iplace, yet yielding to accommodate a large
bunch. Very convenient.— Observer.
2Io
POPULAR GARDENING.
July,
PROH
THB
SOCIETIES
TO BEAVIDBVriMOVniL
The Successful Man is one
'who can overcome every
obstacle.
Board the Pickers. Tlie
, l.i'St plan is to board the
pickers, having them stay
on the premises throufili
the season.— H. P. CloHiier.
Home Market Best. Sell at home always when
you can do it, and don't trust the commission
man to send you pay for what he doesn't want.
— Oias. WrUiht, Del.
The Chrysanthemum Clob. of Erie, Pa., have
decided to luild their annual show on Nov. -tth to
7th. Premium list will be out in a tew days. H.
Tuny, Set'u, Box 2-20, Erie, Pa.
Moyer Grape. The Moyer closely resembles
the Delaware in looks and ([Uality. As to earli-
ness it is the earliest Grape we have, coming in
even befoi-e the Tallman.— icicis Raasch.
Clean Culture Needed. I believe it we would cul-
tivate our orchards as they cultivate the Orange
orchards of California, instead of seeding them
down, we would increase the quality and quanti-
ty of our fruit at least 20 per cent,— Tl'. H. CouUin
before the Shanoicc Co., Kans. Institute.
Forest Botation. When Oaks are cut off they
are followe<i by softer wood, and Pine is followed
by Oak, Walnut and other deciduous trees. The
ground in Pine forests offers the best opportu-
nity for squirrels to plant Acorns and Walnuts,
and affords shelter to Maple seeds.— O.B.Hadwin
The Hardiest Peaches. Mr. Willard believed
Early Kivei-s hail a hardy fruit bud and would
stand more cold than other varieties. Hill's Chili
and Jacques Kareripe were others. Mr. Rupert
said that Early Kivers and Hill's Chili bore good
crops with him when other varieties failed. Mr.
Arnold would add Hyne's Surprise, proving
very hardy, early, and absolutely free-stone.—
We.'stcm New York Siieicty.
Pruninff the Peach. The trees should be
pruned so as to leave no crotches, but limbs ex-
tending from the trunk from four to twelve
inches apart, and in my judgment the toii of the
tree should commence three feet from the
ground ; and care should be taken, in pruning,
to give the tree an upright position and to pre-
vent from arming out so as to hinder successful
cultivation.-- irfjif Mieh.Frwt growers' A xfo'tion.
Garden Tillage. When cultivating, work the
entire plot, and as soon as one crop is harvested,
remove all rubbish and cultivate the ground, so
that it may be ready for something else. It
hurts land quite as much to grow weeds as it
does to grow useful vegetables, and to allow
them to mature their seed in your garden is to
harbor your very worst enemies and make the
battle ten times harder for you the next year.—
Adrian Farmers' Institute.
Seedling Nut Trees. However much we may
depend upon seedling Walnuts for profitable
planting, it will not do to put equal dependence
upon seedling Chestnuts. The finer varieties of
these are as unlikely to come true from seed as
the finer kinds of Apples and Pears, and an
orchard of seedling Chestnuts would be as un-
satisfactory as an orchard of seedling Apples or
Pears. The variation of Chestnuts seems to be
in the line of unproductiveness as well as size.—
Chax. Parry before the N. J. Hort Soc.
Flantine Strawberries. The easiest and quick-
est way I have found to plant a large number, is
for two jiersons to go on, one with a spade and
the other with a basket of plants; and the one
who has the spade simply puts it in the soil, runs
the spade in a slanting direction, and raises the
handle a little, just sufliciont for the other to put
the plant under the spade and spread out the
roots there and ht)ld them in i)roper position
while the other one withdraws the spade; the
earth falls back at once on the roots of the plant,
and presses his foot upon it, and the thing is
done. They can walk along that way very
rapidly. — Sec'j/ Fruit Growers'' Association of
Dntario, Canada.
Blackberry Management. I plant my niack-
beri-ies se\'en feet apart between rows, in rows
three feet, ami 1 try to keep them in hills. They
are supported by wire on either side. When the
growth has got to the length of about two and
a half feet, 1 cut the top of the cane off ; that
stops the upward growth of the plant, so it forms
itself Into a tree. Tn laying them down, remove
the earth say four inches from the hill, and three
inches under so we can bend the root and not
the cane. We put earth enough upon them to
press the tops together as close as we can ; then
cover them, so that one lays along-side of the
other. I uncover them in the spring as soon as
the earth get in good workable order. —Mr. Ham-
ilton before Wisconsin, Farmers" [nstitute.
Why the Concord Drops Off. I do not think
the trouble arises from deep cultivation nor
from use of ashes. Believe it is caused by over-
bearing, thereby weakening the vine. We must
remember in vineyard management that in any
given season there are to be perlected two crops,
the first, the fruit which goes Uj be consumed
in the market, and the second the ripening or
maturing of the wood for the ne.\t year's fruit-
ing. If an excess of fruit is grown, the wood
will suffer or become enleebled. We here touch
upon one of the most important principles in
the science of vine growing There is no doubt
that very many vineyards are at one time or
another injured by overbearing. This is partic-
ularly true of young vineyards.— Se'cy Crissyo/
the Chiutauqua Hort. .Soc.
Growing Sweet Potatoes. Plant seed tubers
showing a tendency to become short and larger
in the center, with a rapid taper towards each
end. Place in a hot bed horizontally one-half
inch apart, drench with water, cover three inches
with earth, then one and a-half inches of sand.
When the plants are four inches above ground,
they are large enough to pull for sets. Ridge
the ground with a two-horse plough, four feet
or less apart, and with a spade plant on the
ridges, eighteen inches apart. Keep free from
weeds and grass. A Sweet Potato scraper, drawn
by a mule, will be of great assistance until the
\1nes cover the ground, after which little atten-
tion will be required. Digging can be done with
a spade, if only a small quantity is grown, or
with a plough with the mould board removed,
and a rolling cutter to cut the vines.— T. E.Oood-
rich before the Ills. Hort. Society.
School-ground Planting. The decoration of
school-grounds can be made at a trifling expense.
The ground in the beginning should be thorough-
ly broken and harrowed and then seeded to
grass. It should be planted with some native
shrubs and trees, and the boys and girls should
be made to feel an interest in maintaining it.
The play-ground proper may be in the rear of
the building, and if the students are furnished
with a cheap mower they will take pride in keep-
ing the lawn in front well clipped and tidy.
Besides this, if our native trees— Hickories, Oaks,
Birches and Pines— are planted in groups, many
interesting lessons in botany can be drawn from
them by a skillful instructor. Flower-beds
should be used with caution, but when children
are properly interested they can be introduced
to advantage, and it is certain that the influence
of such a pleasant ground will do something to-
ward improving and elevating taste and charac-
ter.—J. J. Thomas, before the W. N. T. Hort. Soc.
Park Planting. In the sylvan embellishment
ot a park is a curious fact that nearly all our
larger forest trees are entirely neglected, except
Maples, Elms, Poplars and occasiimally the
White Ash or the Basswood. The Wild Cherry,
Tulip, Plane, Beech, Honey Locust, Sweet Chest-
nut, all the Hickories and most of the Oaks, are
large trees excellent for shade or ornament, but
tew of them are ever seen in young plantations,
and they are difficult to obtain in ijuantity at
any nursery. In the same category may be
placed many of our smaller native trees, such as
the Hackberry, Sweet-Gum, Sour-Gum, Horn-
beam, Ironwood, Sassafras, etc., all compara-
tively common in our woods, of easy cultivation
and comely form or distinctive character. Where
a European tree is nothing better, or even in-
ferior, it will be propagated and planted in pref-
erance to its American congener. Thus an
English or Turkey Oak can be readily obtained
at any nursery, but specimens of any one of a
dozen native species with difficulty, or not all.
So of the Beech, Ash, Plane, Horse Chestnut,
Linden, Moimtain Ash, Larch and Pine of
Europe and American respectively.— Wm. Mc-
Millan, before the W. N. Y. Horticulturists.
The School Garden. It should be not only a
pliiee for observation, but afield for experiment.
Budding, grafting, jiropagation by layers, cut-
tings and slips, cross fertilization jind the condi-
tions favorable to plant growth could be taught
experimentally— not to one class necessarily, but
to every pupil somewhere in the course of study.
Seeing and doing sueh things, and recording the
results would give pupils a training peculiarly
valuable. Here is a large field f«jr the considera-
tion of those who would send the whole boy to
school. Here is an efficient means of interesting
him. A lively personal interest is the mainspring
of all proper mental development. Unless the
boy is interested in the work of the schoolroom
his mind will be on things outside of it ; he will
be present in body but absent in mind. How is
it that the varied, instructive and interesting
work of the school garden has escaped the atten-
tion and appreciation of educators so long,
much more the attention and appreciation of
agriculturists? In the public schools of Boston,
two hours a week are set apart for elementary
science work in all the primary classes, and in
the fifth and sixth grammar classes. Out-door
work at all seasonable times should be substi-
tuted for the present in-door work. Work in
the school garden would be as much better than
work on the same material in the schoolroom as
a visit to Paris is better than a description of it.
The school garden would furnish most of the
material necessary for the winter's work— seeds,
buds, bulbs, tubers, corms, fleshy roots, pressed
leaves and flowers, and other material.— ffejirv
L. Clapp, before the Mass. Hort. Soc.
Decorative Horticulture.
[Abstract of paiH^r by Jas. C'urrie, before n Wisconsin
Farmers' /n-sti^u(e.]
Decorative horticulture, as we understand
it, means the making and care of the lawn,
the planting of trees and shrubs for orna
ment, and the cultivation of all kinds of
flowering and ornamental plants, whether
native or exotic, hardy or tender, in the open
garden or in the conservatory.
Taste for the Ait. We cannot expect to find,
in a country so new as this is, many places of
large extent so beautifully laid out as we do in
the older countries; but we have abundant evi-
dence that the taste for this art is very rapidly
developing throughout the country. The
changed and ever improving appearance of our
city and village homes assures us of this. Nearly
every occupied lot now has its well-made, well-
kept lawn, its handsome trees and pretty flower-
ing plants, and sundry other embellishments,
rendering it attractive and beautiful. The city
merchant who delights to breathe the pure,
bracing air of his country home, and never tires
of fea-sting his eyes on the extensive and varied
landscape which surrounds it, is a true lover of
nature in all her native and rugged grandeur;
but that does not prevent him from employing
the landscape gardener's art to improve the im-
mediate surroundings of his home. Some people
condemn that art, because thej' consider it but
an imitution ot nature. But the true artist has
really no intention of imitating nature's works.
He emjiloys her materials to create scenes which
are polished and refined, pleasing to the eye and
adapted to the circumstances. Under his mas-
terly direction he produces effects, which, it is
fair to say, are scarcely less natural, and cer-
tainly are more consistent in the vicinity of the
home, than any of nature's handiwork. Our
country resident, therefore, who thoroug-ly ap-
preciates the beautiful, as well as the picturesque
in nature, and who has a keen sense of refine-
ment, embellishes his home grounds, but is care-
ful not to over-do his work.
Pleasures and Benefits. The pleasures and
benefits to be derived from the cultivation of
plants, a well-stocked flower garden and nice
lawn, with trees, shrubs and flowers pleasingly
arranged, are almost innumerable and inestima-
ble. Let mo direct attention to one important
benefit. The necessary labor is light and very
interesting. It demands attention, but does not
impose a burden on the mental faculties; it may
be made really nothing but amusement; and,
moreover, is conducted out of dooi-s in the clear,
fresh air and sunshine. Is it any wonder, then,
that it proves so often such a splendid tonic for
invaliils and weary, care-worn business men'/ I
take m.\' stand with confidence, because 1 am
assured of the supi>ort of every farmer's wife
and daughter, and of all those farmers whose
handsome homes we find here and there through-
out the coinitry, a delight to their owners and
even the pride of their neighbors.
Make Your Homes Attractive. Why not give
the children a nice garden, and encourage them
to spend some of their leisure hours in it, and
buy them a few |>lants and seeds, and let them
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
219
t-ulti\ atr tlu'ir tnvii tlow^T^'y Vory lew rliiltireii
lire iniTsu to this kind of work: it is umuscnu'lU
to them, ami, as you aiv uwai'c. most hi-althy
ivfivalion. Many a voiy ilciicatc lioy ami Kii'l.
r\vi\ on tho I'ai'ixi, havr. tiy tlic lit^iit \voi'k in the
jjanU'ii. wliii'li kept tltfin eiiiployod in the open
air. l)»H'ii nui-scil ui> into strong and lu'althy men
antl women. Tlie eity has jrreat allui^'ment.s for
tin- farm boy. I am by no means opposetl to liis
i-omiiiK to town, for we need our l>ineolus, tJai"-
lielcis and Itusks to man the ship of state, and we
look to the farm for them; but we eannot afford
to deplete the farm, .so we must offer every iii-
dueement to keeji the boys at home. Try to
luake yi^ur homes the pride of your ehiUlren so
that though theyjfooii a visit to town, they may
see, at least, few homes more attraetive than
their own. liabor is not an e.xpensive item, be-
cause the work of making' the improvements Citn
be done at odd times when farm work is not
pressing. Trees, shrubs and hardy tiowers, which
are no further e.\^>ense than the first cost, are
now very cheap. The future care of the lawn
involves \'ery little labor, as light running lawn
mowers, which the boys even consider as play-
thiiigs, do the work of cutting the grass rapidly,
and leave the lawn looking smooth and trim.
Within recent years the value of decorative
horticulture has attracted the attention of sev-
eral of the great railroad companies of this
country, particularly those operating roads in
the east. They employ it extensively about all
the larger depots along the lines. Thoroughly
capable landscai* gardeners are permanently
employed to direct all the operations. All the
available ground in the vicinity of the depots is
judiciously and carefully laid out, and tastefully
planted with trees, shrubs and ttowers; and the
grass Is always kept short and green.
Materials. There is no lack of materials to use
in decorative horticulture Trees, shrubs and
flowering plants of suitable kinds are in abund-
ance, and sufficient for the purpose, even though
our rather severe climate precludes the culture
of many beautiful sorts. Kut the kinds we have
are already so numerous, and the desire to use
them all is so strong and tempting, that much
wisdom and self-denial are required to choose
only a sufficient number of the most appropriate
sorts for the locatiou and space they are to oc-
cupy. The general tendency is to overcrowd.
It is so hard to satisfy ourselves with one tree
when one is sufficient for the purpose, and our
judgment even tells us so. The love of flowers
has that tendency even more strongly. While
their culture is always commendable, great care
must be exercised in selecting them, and giving
them their appropriate place. The flower garden
or border is the proper place for a large and gen-
eral assortment— a bed or two perhaps being
sufficient to tastefully embellish the lawn.
Money in Small Fruits
{Extract of paper by J. H. Hale, read bejore Wiscon
sin farmers' Institute.)
It is really only within the pa.st ten years
that a 1 the small towns and villages of the
country have begun to have anything like a
fair supply, while there are yet hundreds of
towns and villages that are not one-half
supplied, and those that appear to be well
furnished now would use many more if
better fruit were offered and in a more at-
tractive style. So there is a chance yet for
new beginners, if they are willing to live
up to the requirements and demands of the
times. However, before attempting the
business it is well to know that not all cul-
tivators of berries have found money in
small fruits. In fact there have been some
very serious failures.
Beqairements for Success The requisites for
success are :
1. A love of fruits for their own sake; a
pleasure in their culture.
2. A soil fairly well adapted to them.
3. Good local markets, or convenient access
to railway lines which center in market towns
4. Extra laboi-ers, near enoiigh at hand to be
called on, in case of emergency, in cultivating
and gathering the fruits promptly and econom-
ically when ripe.
Having made sure of these things, if one is
starting in business, care should be taken not to
plan for planting more than can be cared for in
the most thorough manner, or sold to good ad-
vantage.
Strawberries. *>f the \'ariotis fruits, .siti-aw-
bcrncs will rccci\i' tirst attention, as it is from
thciu that the quickest returns may bccxpcctfil,
.\ny good Corn or Wheat land will priHluce line
StrawlH'rrics, but to secure the best results, it
must be very rich in natural fertility, or made
so l)y the application of mamn-c in some foj-m.
My own cxprricncc has been that any soil ric-h in
organic matti-r, or fertilized with stable uiuintre
or t'ommcrcial fertilizers rich in nitrogenous
matter produces too mnuh foliage growth for
the most profitable returns in fruit ; and my best
crops have come from a sandy or loamy soil,
where commercial fertilizers had been used con-
taining a large percentage of phosphoric acid
anil potash, but lacking in nitrogen.
Preparing the Oround, Land that has been in
cultivation for a year or two previous is best.
I'low this as deeply as possible early in the
spring ; then harrow it over and over again until
a perfect seed-bed is formed. An extra day or
two spent by a man and team in a thorough
preparation of tlie land, will usually show itself
in ease of cultivation later in the season.
Setting the Plants. When the ground is thor-
oughly prepared, with a corn-marker, check off
rows three feet apart, and set the plants from
twelve to twenty inches apart in the row, ac-
cording to the vigor of the variety. If pistillate
or imperfect flowering varieties are used, plant
every third row with some strong, perfect flow-
ering variety that blooms at the same time. Too
many make the mistake of planting a greater
number of rows of pistillat«s before adding the
l>erfect bloomers to fertilize them, and also make
the selection of varieties without regard to the
time of blossoming.
Cnltivating, ('ut off all blossoms or fruit
stalks as fast as they appear, and as soon as
growth is well started, begin the summer culti-
vation, which should be kept up once in two or
three weeks all through the season, until weed
growth is stopped by freezing in the fall. ()n my
own plantations the last hoeing is usually done
in October.
The Narrow Bow System. I am satisfied that
this is on the whole the most profitable. Ry this
method, each of the springset plants is allowed
to root a few of its first runners, along near the
line of the row, after which all the runners are
cut off as fast as they appear. The advantages of
this plan are that more of the work of cultiva-
tion can be done by horse-power, as in hill
culture, and yet there are always young
plants enough to form one continuous row, even
if a few do get destroyed in any way. There is
abundant room for sun-light and air to reach all
the berries when ripening, which assures larger,
better colored and higher flavored berries than
can- be grown in matted rows; also firmer fruit
that stands transportation much better, and sells
for higher prices.
There is another advantage in this plan. It
costs but little to clean out a bed of this sort
after fruiting, and so renew it for another sea-
son's crop at little expense, while in matted row
culture it is seldom profitable to continue a bed
in fruiting more than one year.
Importance of Moisture Many a field of
Strawberries that has received fairly good care
during the whole year, has failed to produce
proHtable results, simply for the want of suffi-
cient moisture, just at the fruiting season.
Therefore, where it is possible, without too great
cost, irrigation should be provided, if the highest
results are to be obtained. Where the markets
are large enough to readily handle year after
year, the product of five or more acres from one
farm, I am satisfied that an investment of from
one to twf) thousand dollars for irrigation pur-
poses would pay handsomely. I urge at least a
thorough preparation of the soil for planting,
and frequent cultivation that the plants may
root deeply and thus be able to withstand drouth,
which comes so often when we least expect it.
Oathering and Marketins. In gathering and
marketing the crop there should be one picker
for each thirty or forty iiuarts ;of the daily pro-
duct, and a suiJCrintendent to every fifteen or
twenty pickers, to assign them their rows and
inspect their work from time to time; to see
that they keep to their rows and do not trample
on the vines. Pick the fruit clean and grade it
according to the demands of the market to be
supplied. Upon the thoroughness of this super-
intendent's work will depend, in a large measure,
the success of the business.
Picking, except for local markets, should not
begin till the dew is off in the morning, and
should not be continued through the heat of the
day. If pickers enough can be had to rapidly
gather tho croi>, from four o'clock till dark is
nnn'h the best time.
Packing. The packing shed should be a cool,
airy place, convenient to the fleld, anil here all
the fruit should be brought as fast as gatheiod.
A general inspection of the fruit should be given
by the person in charge, and it should be packed
according to its grade, each \ariety by itself.
Baskets or bo.xes should be new and clean, and
made of the whitest wood that it is possible to
obtain. All should be as rounding full as can be
conveniently packed without injury to the fruit.
There should lie no inferior fruit put in, and that
in the bottom and middle of the package should
be just as good, or better, than that on top.
Having made sure of this, these should be care-
fully jiacked in clean, bright crates oi- boxes of
the size required by the markets where the fruit
is to be sold.
Baspberries. Red, black and yellow, require
much of the same soil as Strawberries, except
that they ma.v be grown with profit on land that
is far richer in nitrogeneous matter.
Planting. Kail is the best time to plant all but
the cap varieties. The ground should be as thor-
oughly prepared as for Strawberries. I am
satisfied that larger, finer and better l>erries can
be grown by planting check-rows five or six feet
apart, giving the plants more sunlight and air
and admittmg of more use of the horse and cul-
tivator, thus securing better culture at less cost,
while the yield of fruit is fully as large as from
the hedge-rows.
Cultivation. Cultivation should be begin early
in the season, and be frequent and thorough
through the summer months, so as to stimulate
a rapid growth early in the season, gi\'ing ample
time for maturity of wood during the fall.
The new growth should be pinched back when
fifteen to eighteen inches high. This will cause a
strong growth of lateral branches, which should
be allowed to grow at will, leaving all further
trimming until early the following spring.
Winter Protection. Few, if any, of the best va-
rieties are hardy enough to endure the winters of
Wisconsin without some protection, if you are to
make sure of a crop annually. It is therefore
best to lay them down and cover with earth at
the approach of winter. This can be done at a
cost of from five to eight dollars per acre, and is
a cheap method of insuring a crop, so far as the
extreme frost might affect it. As soon as frost is
out, and ground is dry enough in the s|>ring, un-
cover and straighten up the plants ; thin out and
shorten in the laterals from eight to fifteen
inches, as may be required to form a well-
balanced bush.
Thorough cultivation may be given up to
blooming time, after which it is not well to stir
the soil till after fruiting.
Gathering and Marketing. The gathering and
marketing should be on the same general plan as
for the Strawberries, except that pint boxes or
baskets should be used in place of quarts for the
most delicate varieties.
Blackberries. These are generally inclined to
make too much wood growth, so it is well to
select land of moderate fertility. The high-bush
varieties may be planted either in spring or fall,
the latter being the best; planting the same as
the strongest growing Raspberries, while the
Dewberries or trailing Blackberries should be
planted in the spring in rows ten feet apart,
plants three to four feet in the row, and allowed
to form a matted bed. Close pruning and winter
protection are essential to the highest success in
Blackberry culture, as with Raspberries.
Gooseberries.— Currants.— There is only a limi-
ted sale for Gooseberries, but for Currants the
demand is still far greater than the supply.
Strcmg, rich, fairly moist soil is the best for the
latter. They may be planted at any time after
their leaves drop in the fall, or very early in the
spring, in check-rows, four and one-half to five
feet apart. The growth is all made the first two
niimths of summer. It is therefore essential that
the cultivation be thorough and liberal early in
the season, if we desire the best wood growth.
Pruning.— The flret two years only enough
pruning will be required to form a broad open-
headed bush, with bearing wood evenly distribu-
ted ; but in later years a pinching back of all the
new growth when two or three inches long will
tend to develop a wonderous formation of fruit
spurs and buds.
General Principles.- The following are general
principles that must be lived up to if you are to
find the " money in small fruits."
FiHST.— Thorough culture.
2 20
POPULAR GARDENING.
July,
Second— The be^st possible shipping pacicajres.
Third— Honest packing of fruit from top to
bottom, yet maliing as fine an appearance as
possible.
Net Profits — With culture such as I recom-
mend, Strawberries should yield four thousand
fiuart« per acre, should sell in your markets at
about eight cents per quart— a net profit of one
hundi-ed and fifty dollars per acre.
Baspberries should yield about three thousand
quarts per acre, which, at ten cents per quart,
will net about same profit as Strawberries.
Blackberries should give rather more quarts
than Raspberries, but selling for less price, the
profit is not quite as great
A good product ot Currants is from fifteen
hundred to two thousand quarts per acre, and
the price I suppose here is about six or eight
cents ; but as a field of Currants may be kept in
fruiting for an indefinite number of years, it is
one of the most profitable of all the small fruits,
as the cost of culture is so much less than any of
the othei-s. Strawljerries have to be renewed
every two or three years. Raspberries and Black-
berries every five or six, for the best results.
The Family Small Fruit Garden.— To get at
bottom facts as to " money in small fruits,'' the
family garden is the place to begin and end, if we
are looking for greatest results. Every farmer
should, and will have, when he awakens to a full
sense of the duty he owes to his wife and loved
ones, a family small fruit garden of a half acre
or more, in proportion to the size of his family,
and his real interest in their welfare, for right
here he has a home market that will take at high
prices every day in the week, quarts upon quarts
of the choicest product of his plants.
How to Grow Dahlias.
(Extract of pajter read b\i 3Ir. Wm. E. Endicott be-
fore the Mafisachusetis Sorticuttural Society.)
In spring the tubers which are hanging to
the crown by only a few dead fibres, should
be cut off and the sound parts so divided
that each portion shall have not more than
one or two buds. These buds will be readi-
ly discernible in May. If the roots are
planted year after year without division,
not only will they form unwieldy masses,
but there will be a multitude of feeble
shoots, whose flowers will be few and poor.
Soil and Manure, The soil should be neither
light nor heavy, and a plentiful supply of ma-
nure should be used. Chemical fertilizers will
induce a low growth, not high enough to hide a
child, while barn-yard manures cause a tall
growth. Dahlias raised with the latter need
staking to keep the wind from breaking them,
the flowers are much finer both in shape and
color, and the foliage has a freshness and perfec-
tion which adds much to the beauty of the plant.
With chemical fertilizers there are too many ill-
shaped and ill-colored flowers, and the foliage is
more apt to be infected with a fungus growth,
which causes it to turn yellow at the edges, and
to shrivel toward the end of the season.
Planting. The roots should be planted about
the end of May. and covered about three
inches deep, and there should be at least four
feet of clear space allowed on each side; other-
wise full development cannot be expected.
Sometimes they are planted singly on lawns, and
so treated, a tall bushy and well-flowered plant
of a large-blossomed variety makes a fine appear-
ance. As with the majority ot jilants, the after-
cultivation consists simply in keeping the ground
loose and clean, and in applying water occasion-
ally if the season be dry, tor the Dahlia needs a
good supply of water. In one dry season the
essayist had hut one tlower from many hundred
plants, while a field of Oladioli blossomed as well
as ever. The first frost will destroy the plants,
but it is by no means necessary that they then be
taken up. On the contrary, they will keep better
in the ground than out of it, until the end of Octo-
ber; all that is necessary is to lift them before
the ground freezes up. A root accidentally left
in the ground over winter has been known to
come up in the spring and flourish as vigorously
as if it had been wintered in the cellar.
In taking up Dahlia roots it is necessary to
observe two precautions— not to shake them too
violently in removing the earth; otherwise the
necks of many tubers will be so injui'ed as to rot
during the winter; and to invert the root for a
while after cutting off the stems so that the
moisture which drains olT shall not run down
upon the crown, thereby ca\ising the buds for
next year's growth to rot. Neglect of these pre-
cautions have been the destruction of many a
good collection.
Propagation, The Dahlia is propagated by
cutting or division. The latter method may be
carried out at any time from lifting to planting:
it consists simply in cutting the old root into
pieces leading one or more eyes on each.
If it is intended to propagate by cuttings, the
roots from which the slips are to be taken should
be potted and put into a warm greenhouse in the
first part of February. When the shoots are
about two inches long they should Ije cut off just
below a pair of leaves, the buds in the axils of
which will form the eyes of the tuber which the
cutting is to develop. If the cuttings be taken
with a long stem below the leaves, they will root
and form tuljers: but these will never grow after
the first year, having no buds at their crowns.
The cuttings are rooted in sand in the ordinary
way, and may be planted out when the weather
becomes warm enough. It sometimes happens
that a cutting has a hollow stem;'without special
treatment this will never root, but if it be split
up to the leaves and one of the halves cut away,
the cutting will root without much trouble.
New varieties must be raised from seed, for the
Dahlia rarely sports, though sometimes it does
so. The essayist had never seen more than one
instance; in which several tubers of Emma
Cheney, a very large rosy-colored sort, produced
mahogany brown flowers and have continued to
do so. It is said that the plump seed is of little
value, but that the thin ones are more apt to
produce fine flowers; the essayist, however, had
not found any such difference. Whatever seed is
used will not produce more than one flower
worth saving out of a thousand seedlings. Seed
is readily obtained; if you pull off one of the
dead dry heads left where a blossom withered,
you will find the thin black seeds among the
chaffy bracts; these should be planted oufloors,
where the plants are to remain, as soon as the
ground is warm enough; they wUI probably
blossom in September.
We are commonly advised to sow the seed
under glass in March, but those who do so will
be sorry before the end of May, for the seed
starts so readily and the young plants grow so
freely that the hasty garflener soon has to choose
whether he will throw away some of his Dahlias
or some of his other plants.
Improving the Dahlia. In the Dahlia as we
now have it. the tendency to variation is pretty
thoroughly fixed. Out of two hundred seedlings
raised from seed of the fine white Pompon vari-
ety called White Aster, the essayist had flowers
of every sort and kind, of every shade of color,
single. Pompon, and large doubles— some of the
last pretty good and some poor enough to be
offered as first-rate Cactus Dahlias.
We seem to be advancing from the single
flower over precisely the same ground formerly
traversed, for most of the " Cactus "' varieties of
the present day are in no respect different from
varieties figured fifty years ago in the Floricul-
tural Cabinet and other publications.
Will these loose, flat-petalled varieties liecome
the round perfect Show-Dahlia as they did be-
fore or will they take a different turn and pro-
duce some new form? The same materials— the
species varialiiiis, cueciiiia, and graciliis— must
produce the same results.
In so large a family as the Compositte to which
the Dahlia belongs it seems probable that some
genus exists with which hybrids may be formed,
and it is from such a source that new sorts are
to be had, if at all.
There is still one point in which the present
race of Dahlias may be improved— hardiness.
We frequentl.v have a frost in the first part of
September which kills all our Dahlias: then
succeed several weeks of bright mild weather, in
which our blackened plants present but a sorry
figure. If we could infuse enough hardiness into
them to enable them to withstand this firet frost
it would be a great point gained. Two years ago
among some hundreds of seedlings which the
frost had destroyed, one stood up as fresh and
green as ever. Unfortunatel.v it was lost by
neglect. This incident shows that a moderate
degree of hardiness may be obtained by the
simple process of selection among seedlings; per-
haps by hybridization perfect hardiness ma.v also
be reached.
The double and single varieties are so very
unlike that a comparison between them is hardly
possible. Both are desirable, both are beautiful
—each in its own way. The large double Dahlia
is certainly heavy in apiJearance, but it has a
richness of color, a delicacy of shading and a
perfection of construction that the singles can-
not approach. The single Dahlias are free in
flowering, cheerful and graceful as they stand
in the garden.
The Wild Species, Impcrialis is a very beauti-
ful species, which, however, will never be much
grown, because it does not flower until Novem-
ber, and then only on stalks twelve or fifteen
feet tall. Nothing can much exceed the beauty
of its clusters, however, consisting as they do, of
flowers gracefully drooping, white, faintly
flushed with pink, and with petals so disposed
that the flowers look more like Lilies than
Dahlias This species is well worth growing for
the beauty of its foliage, which is much di%'ided
and arches out from the stem, like some kinds
of .\zalea. Excelsa is another trio-like plant,
coarser in foliage than imperialis, and also late
flowering; the blossoms are pink. MerMi, called
also iilahrata, is a very dwarf species not over a
foot and a half high. In no respects does it re-
semble the other species in appearance. The
foliage is shiny and very finely cut, and the
blossoms much resemble the Coreopsis in size,
shape, and length of stalk. The colors are white,
pink and purple, with a dark brown center.
The other species are very much like the ordi-
nary crimson and scarlet single varieties.
Varieties. The possessor of the following
kinds has a goo<l collection: Anne Boleyn, light
flesh: British Triumph, dark crimson; Dutchess of
Cambridge, rose with crimson-tipped florets;
Earl of .Shaftesbury, rich purple: Flamingo,
vermilion; Julia Davis, rich yellow; Louisa Neath,
pink; Prospero, plum coU>r tipped white; Lord
Hawke, yellow and buff; Miss Huth. lemon
yellow with white tips; Mrs, Gladstons, delicate
soft pink.
Some very good Pompon or small-flowered
double kinds are Snowflake, creamy white;
White .\ster, pure white with fringed petals;
Cochineal Rose, deep crimson and of perfect
form; Figaro, buff with crimson edge; Liebchen-
mein, white bordered violet; Pure Love, lilac;
Little Coldlight, golden-yellow tipped scarlet;
Sparkler, scarlet; George French, crimson if seen
from the front, bluish rose if looked at from the
side: Mercafor, pink-tipped crimson; Lurline
and Catherine, yellow; Isabel, briliant scarlet
and of finest form.
Of the " Cactus " varieties there are by far too
many, unless their quality improves. Juarezi,
named for Juarez, the former president of Mex-
ico, was the first, and is so far the best that the
essayist was almost inclined to say that no other
sort is worth growing. Its color is intense and
pure, and its shape and arrangement of petals
are peculiar. Lord Lyndhurst is very good; it
is a reproduction of Juarezi on a smaller scale
and in a lighter shade ot color. It is probabl.v a
sport from Juarezi. Mondamin is a fine pink
variety raised from seed of Juarezi, and has the
same peculiar shape.
Plunging Plants.
[A paper read bu Mr, Wm, Bardney, Norris Green
Gardeti,s^ before the members of the Liverpool Horti-
cultural Association.)
It should be practiced for the economical
advantages it offers. If gardening is to
prosper in the future, the cost of production
must be duly considered, so that the rettirns
will justify the outlay. Labor can be saved
by plunging. Appearance will always have
to be considered. The work of keeping the
pots clean is considerable, which by pliing-
ing would be entirely dispensed with. There
would be no stage washing. When the pots
are constantly exposed they soon present an
unsightly appearance, and they are no
sooner washed than they are green again.
Use ordinary pots, follow a system of plung-
ing them, and this laborious system of pot-
washing will be dispensed with.
But the great labor saved, is that saved in
watering. Watering is a most expensive item in
the production of plants when grown with their
pots exposed. By plunging the pots evapora-
tion is arrested, and very little moisture is drawn
from the soil in which the plants are growing.
When the surface of the soil and pot is covered,
very little moisture escapes, only what is
naturally evaporated from the leaves and stems
ot the plant. Evaporation will go from the sur-
face of the plunging material, but if a judicious
system of syringing is followed ilaily as the state
of the atmosphere and the requirements of
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
221
plants deiuanil. it is rcplai-uil. Ti> do this docs not
re«i»iire one-tt-nth the labor entailed in water-
ing wlK'n plants are ^n)\vn on the usual prin-
ciple. There is a eorrespondinyr saving? of food
provided for the idant within the limits of the
pot. I think it cannot be tIispro\ed, or even
doubted, that rain will wa«h down into the
earth, and often Ixdow the reach of the roots of
plants to l>e carifxl away in tlie dniins, much of
the essence of manure when applied in autumn.
even if placed on the surface of the soil. Of
course considenibly more will be lost, if I may
use the term, on lifrht than heavy soils. What is
the rainfall of our climate in comparison with
the amount of water poured into the soil of
plants when they arc grown with their pots ex-
poscdy By plunging, evaporation is ari'ested to
a large extent, and it is not necessary to pour
one-tenth the quantity of water into the pot.
Plunging provides the most uniform condition
about the roots both as regards moisture and
temperature. By the ordinary method of water-
ing this cannot be done, for the soil is seldom in
that satisfactory condition ; it is either wet or
dry, and they need water during dry weather
two or three times a day, more or less according
to e.xt«rnal conditions.
I have said that by plunging a more uniform
temperature about the roots is maintained. The
roots beneath the surface may not become so
warm by da.v as those fully exposed, but thej'
are warmer at night. A pot exposed will be-
come frozen all round it, not only on the surface,
while the one plunged would only freeze on the
surface. By plunging the pots are protected
from extreme heat and cold, more in accordance
with the conditions provided for plants in a
natural state.
Plunging the pots is advocated because it pro-
tects the roots from injury. How quickly are
the silk-like roots of many plants injured whin
the pots are exposed to the sun and the drying
conditions of the atmosphere; Even when the
sun has but little power, moisture from the pot
and soil is evaporated at such an enormous rate
that injury to the roots in a greater or less degree
can scarcely be prevented. Such injury means a
check to the plant, the evils of which may not be
perceptible for some time.
Bj' plunging plants, earlier, quicker and in-
creased root acti\-ity is ensured, and in cons-
equence a t)etter and more luxuriant growth
follows. An example may be given to show the
difference in the supply of ^\ ater needed when
they are not. I have rooted Crotons in 2-inch
pots, and they have been repotted until they
were placed in 10-inch pots, and filled them with
roots before water was poured into the pots.
They were well syringed, and the plunging mat-
erial kept moist. Lift two Roses, pot them, and
plunge one outside in ashes below the surface,
aud stand the other on the walk. Water one
when it needs it, and give the other none, if the
soil is in a proper state of moisture when potted.
Examine when frost compels their removel to
frames, and it will be found that the plunged one
has double the roots of the other and she soil in a
much sweeter and better condition. Plunge
Lilacs, Guelder Hoses, or any similar plant after
potting or pruning in autumn in ordinary gar-
den soil for the next season's forcing, and the
season must prove exceptionally dry if they
A HOME-MADE FRUIT DRYER.
need a supply of water. From a general system
of plunging Orchids must, however, be except<'d.
I said it was necessary to consider the dis-
advantages that could be urged against plung-
ing. The only one of weight that can be brought
forward is that of over-watering. Now, this when [
carefully considered, is a diflBculty that bears no
comparison with the mistakes that are made,
often unavoidably, in watering plants when
their pots are exposed. Watering properly when
the pots are plunged is a mere matter of train-
ing. If they are over-watered it arises from
either lack of proper training, ignorance, or
generally from carelessness. To water plants
properly when they are plunged only needs ob- ,
sen-ation and thought. i
CONDENSED GLEANINGS.
Mmhrooms in Opan Air. In September, IStw,
1 platilcd a brick of the spawn in a field of rich
pasture land, the operation being the simple act
of i-aising the sod with a spade, dropping into
the cavity a piece of the spawn as large as a
Walnut and pressing it back again. On the
:-'d October, 18H9, I was rewarded b.\' the sight of
my first Mushroom on the field planted in 1S8H.
I'rom my exiierience so far I conclude that the
spawn or germ of the Mushroom, once in rich
soil, resists for months higli or low temperature,
drought and saturation: but it does not develop
into the perfect Mushroom that pushes above
PEAR-SHAPED APPLES.
ground, except under certain soil and weather
conditions of heat and moisture, and tempera-
ture sustained for some days between 60 and 7.5
degrees Fahr. Days with these characteristics
are most apt to occur in May and October for
these latitudes, and sometimes in unusually cool
seasons in the summer months. Judging from
what I have observed so far, I conclude there is
no difficulty in growing Mushrooms on land as
rich in nitrogen and phosphates as the black
soil prairie, but the intense features of the
climate so much restrict the season of harvest,
sometimes abolishing it altogether, that the crop
must needs be a precarious one.— B. F. Johnson,
in Field and Farm.
A Home-Made Frnit-Dryer. Our illustration
represents a cheap fruit-dryer, which may be
set upon the kitchen stove. It is made of inch
lumber, with a base of sheet iron four inches
wide to protect it from burning. The slats,
which are nailed inside to support the trays, are
two inches apart. The dryer may be made of
any height, from two to four feet, the capacity in-
creasing with the height. The trays upon which
the fruit is spread are mere frames of wood, of
a size to slide easily upon the slats of the dryer.
Each tray is bottomed with narrow strips of
wood, of a size to slide easily upon the slats of
the dryer. Each tray is bottomed with narrow
strips of wood, far enough apart to admit hot
air and hold the fruit from falling. Galvanized
wire netting would be better but more costly.
The dryer has an opening in the top for the es-
cape of the vapor-laden hot air and a handle on
each side for lifting it. The door has two trans-
verse cleats firmly screwed on the outside, to
prevent warping. The dryer may be made by
anyone who can use tools, at little expense.—
Am. Agriculturist.
Pear-Shaped Apples. One of the most curious
examples of changes in fruit is represented in
engraving on this page. It will be seen what
appeal's to be a Pear and an Apple growing from
the stem, or one blossom producing a round and
another a Pear-shaped, fruit. Both fruits are
Apples alike in color, texture, and flavor, and
several others of the same nature have been
produced by the same tree. The specimens were
gathered from a seedling tree in the garden of
Mr. S. Gower, Ii)swich. The tree is a seedling,
but what of or how sown nobody knows. There
is no other tree of any kind on the ground.
There were this year certainly a score of these
twins, as well as many other bunches of round
Apples. The Pear-shaped ones not only grow
singly but also in couples.— Journal of Horti-
culture, England.
Fopoorn for Profit. .Many times the qunntit.^•
of Popcorn now grown would be used if rai.sed.
(Children are foml ot it, and it is better for them
than nuts or candy, and apparently just as satis-
factory. The price ranges from V5 cents to S3
per bushel of ears, it being the latter here now,
and scarce at that. A neighjjor sold his crop last
fall, nearly IM bushels from one acre, for gl a
bushel. A New York dealer offers to take all a
friend of mine will raise this year-price not
quoted, because not asked. A prominent seed
firm tells me, the small, white, flint Popcorn gen-
erally brings best price. I have raised it, and can
produce as much per acre, both stover and grain,
as of large field of Corn of any kind. In rows 3
feet apart each way and four stalks in a hill, it
yields two ears per stalk and often three.— Trib.
Double Stock. The Large-Howered Dwarf Ger-
man Stocks are much superior to the ordinary
Ten-week kinds. When transplanting them at
any stage, throw away any strong-growing for-
ward examples with coarse forked-roots, as these
are sure to produce only single ttowei's, retaining
only those of moderate and compact growth,
with a tuft of fibrous roots. When in full growth
give plenty of water, but only when dry. Inter-
mediate, East Lothian, and Brompton stocks are
biennial (though the first two will bloom the
same autumn if sown early in a little heat), and
should be sown about July, wintered in cold
frames, and planted out in early spring. They
produce finer spikes than the annual kinds, but
for small gardens at any rate, are hardly so
useful.— Gardening Illustrated (London).
The Prophet Flower, from Northern Persia, is
one of the choicest and most interesting of gar-
den plants. It belongs to the Borage familj-,
comes into bloom about the middle of May, and
has Primrose yellow flowers with five black crim-
son spots on their face, and these spots which are
so rt^id when the flowers open, gradually disap-
pear till in a few days no trace of them is left.
Although this plant has been in cultivation for a
good many years, it is stUl high priced and scarce
in cultivation, and seldom included in price lists
in this country.— Wm. Falconer in Am. Florist.
Alpine PrimQlaB. I regard Primula spectabi-
lis as one of the gems of my collection of hardy
Primulas. It is early to bloom, a good grower,
free, and by no means impatient of a little rough
treatment; the flowers are produced in trusses,
and they are of a very pleasing shade of magen-
ta-rose. I have to grow these hardy Primulas in
pots, not without some rests during the summer
while I am from home for several days. I find
it helpful to place a few stones about the roots
and on the surface of the soil of all cultivated in
pots.— Gardening World.
CMckory. This is a very easy crop to grow.
Although a perennial, it is treated as an annual.
In fact, the culture does not differ, if roots are
wanted, from that of the Parsnip or Salsify. By
fall the roots will be an inch or inch and a half in
diameter, and will weigh from 6 to 12 oz. The
roots are cut into thin slices, roasted and then
ground. The Brunswick and Magdeburg are the
best sorts for root production. For leaf -salads,
for which Chicory is much grown, these sorts
and several others are good. Am. Garden.
A Japan Gotird, The largest of the edible
Gourds tested by Dr. Harris is the Kampiyo, of
Okayama, Japan, which grows a yard long and
five or more inches thick, and in Japan, reaches
a weight of sixty or seventy pounds. The Jap-
anese dry it before it is cooked ; it may be sliced
and fried like Egg-plant, and is equal in flavor to
a good Squash. The plant is hardy, productive
and without musk odor, and Squash bugs do not
seem to be fond of it.— Garden and Forest.
The Sweet Chestnut. Many of the oldest man-
sions in England have been built of its wood.
Possessing all the strength, durability, and
toughness of the Oak, the Chestnut has the ad-
vantage over it that it has a finer color. When
an iron nail or bolt has been driven into Oak be-
fore it was dry, a black stain will be found. This
is not the case with the Chestnut, and the two
species of wood in old buildings can easily be
distinguished by this. — Horticultural Times.
Tornips for Seed. In Pennsylvania, the seed is
sown between the rows of corn, after the last
working. This gives Turnips about two inches
in diameter, the most desirable size for seed pur-
poses. In this manner a good crop is secured at
a nominal cost, as they require no working after
sowing. Sufficient roots can be grown with an
222
POPULAR GARDENING.
July,
acre of Corn to set three acres for seed the fol-
lowing season.— Am. Agriculturist.
Tree Protector, The device here illustrated is
very serWcable to protect trees from sun scald,
rabbits, mice, etc. Drive nails iu a work bench
the distance apart you wish the cords to be.
Take tarred cord, in pieces long enough to iro
about twice around a tree when double. Put one
cord over each nail, bring the two ends even and
begin to tie in lath or whatever ;you may use.
When you have enough tied, put it around the
tree, slip one of the ends of the cord through the
double ends, draw it up tight and tie it.— O. J. F.
Producers Entitled to the Markets. The Gro-
cer's Bulletin wants to have farmers and market
gardeners prohibited from selling their products
about the town from house to house. This is an
impertinence, but just what we should expect
from a middlemen's organ. A nice little scheme
to compel the producer to sell only at wholesale
to the grocer, who desires to retail and snatch
the cream of the farmer's profits. — Farm Journal.
Shot-hole Fungus on Foliage, Much of the
injury to Plum foliage which has been attributed
to London purple is found to be due to the shot-
hole fungus iSeptoria cei'osina). This fungus
produces a premature falling of leaves, and is
often very serious. The leaves are marked with
circular brownish spots, and these spots eventu-
ally fall out and leave shot-hole.— Am. Gard.
The Hemlock. The native Hemlock is, to our
eye, the most beautiful of evergreens. For hedge,
it has no equal, standing shearing perfectly into
any desired shape. It is easily transplanted, and
when its new and bright green foliage appears it
is exquisitely beautiful. It makes handsome
trees in isolated positions and is among the best
of windbreaks.— Orange Count3' Farmer.
Orciiard Surgery. Put through the fruit tree
liable to be spoiled by splitting, a bolt of size to
correspond with the tree, and short enough to
just fill the nut when screwed tight. Ten years
ago I thus bolted trees in bad condition ; they are
now all right, and the bolts covered by the tree's
growth.— Erdna.
Ornamental Asparagus. All the species of
Asparagus cultivateil as ornamental plants can
be increased by division of the roots, allowing at
least one crown to each part. A. tenuisslmus
may also be propagated with no great difficulty
by cuttings, giving them bottom heat.— Vicb's
Magazine.
Malch for Young Trees. Mr. Minch advises as an
excellent plan for niulching young: trees, to cover the
mulch after spreading, with three or four Inches of
earth. This keeps the soli below moist and cool and
causes a rapid prowth of wood.
Sunshine lor Choice Crops. Weed not only rob
crops of their food, but are guilty of another theft—
A SIMPLE TREE PROTECTOR,
they rob them of the sun. Fruit is seriously deprecia-
ted in value In most orchards from lack of sunshine.—
Maj. H.T. Brook.
SaveFertilizers . So.ip-suds ought never to he thrown
in the sink or gutter: If poured on the Peach trees or
Rosebushes It will return to you after many days in
luscious Peaches or fragrant Roses.— F. J.
More Celery. Jackson, Mich., gardeners purpose
Increasing their plant of Celery this year— preferred
variety— White Plume.
No Overproduction. Well, I don't believe In any
"Overproduction" when mHIIons are half-clothed.—
Live-Stock Indicator.
Vegetable Products on the Table.
Fried Egg Plant, Cut in thin slices, parboil
in salted water for fifteen minutes, then drain
perfectly dry. Dip the slices in beaten yolk of
egg, then in cracker dust and fry in butter
until brown. Season with Pepper and salt and
serve quite hot.
Spiced Currants. Take four quarts of ripe
Currants, picked from the stems, one pint good
vinegar, two pounds of powdered sugar, one
teaspoonful each of Allspice, Cloves, and Cinna-
mon, powdered fine; boil altogether until about
the consistency of jelly, then remove from the
tire and while hot put away in sealed jars.
Berry Pudding. Make a soft dough, using
sour cream and soda, and stir in Raspberries or
Blackberries. Put into a tin pail having a tight
fitting cover and place in a kettle of boiling
water. Boil three hours, not once letting the
water stop boiling. Eat with sweetened cream.
The mixture should, when put in, not quite half
fill the pail.— K. N. Y.
Strawberry Ice Cream. One quart good cream,
about two cups sugar and one box Strawberries.
Crush the fruit, add the sugar and stir until
dissolved. Rub through a sieve and freeze. The
ice and salt should be carefully mesisured. It
requires twenty minutes to freeze. After it has
stood five minutes, then stir as rapidly as possi-
ble until frozen.— Ploughman.
Currant Pie- One full cup of ripe Currants,
mash, and add a cup of white sugar, one table-
spoonful of flour made smooth in two spoonfuls
of water, and the beaten yolks of two eggs. Mix
and pour into a tin lined with a good crust.
Bake slowly. Beat the whites of the eggs stiff,
add two spoonfuls of powdered sugar, spread
over the pie, return to the oven and brown
lightly.— Rural New Yorker.
Raspberry Vinegar. Take red Raspberries
sufficient to fill a stone jar nearly full, pour upon
them sufficient vinegar to cover them, cover the
jar closely and set it aside for eight or ten days,
then strain through a flannel or muslin bag and
add to the clear liquor one and a half pounds of
white sugar to each pint; place it over the fire
and boil slowly for ten minutes, then allow it to
cool, and bottle for use. This makes a nice
flavoring for sauce, and when mixetl with water
is a delightful drink for summer.— Ohio Farmer.
Pickled Cucumbers. When Cueumbei-s begin
to set. pick them when about three inches long.
We have two small earthen jars on the cellar
floor, which we keep in use until we are through
pickling. In one we have strong brine made of
cold water and salt, in the other diluted vinegar.
Wash the Cucumbers thoroughly, put them in
the brine and let them remain one day. Then
put them into a glass jar scattering amongst
them a few bits of Red Pepper and Xasturtium
seeds, and fill the can full of cold strong vinegar.
On the top place some Horse-radish leaves or
Grape leaves, seal tight and keep in a dark
cool cellar. If the cans are thoroughly cleansed
and perfectly air-tight, the pickles will taste as
fresh in a year as when first put up.
How to Prepare Berries. Most of the Straw-
berries need washing. Drop them, with husks
on, gently into a pan of water, stir around a
little to dislodge all paiiicles of grit, etc., then
lift them out a few at a time and lay them in a
colander to drain. Take the berries from the
colander, a few at a time, and let them lie on a
piece of new cheese cloth as you hull them one
by one. The cloth must be scalded each time it
is used, and dried, but not washed with soap, and
ironed. When the Strawberries are washed re-
move the hulls carefully with a silver knife.
AiTange them on a pretty glass dish, the finest
on the top, following the example of the market
men, and if Strawberry leaves, which are the
prettiest, are not to be had, a few young, crisp
leaves of Lettuce, as a garnish, make an effective
contrast. The leaves may be laid around in-
side the dish before putting in the Strawberries.
Simple Method of Preserving Fruit. We have
preserved large quantities of fruit, every season,
for more than forty years, in pure water only.
The fruit is placed in wide-mouthed bottles, up
the neck; then water is poured in to cover the
fruit; the bottles are then placed in heat— where
they remain until near the boiling point. They
are then put aside to cool, and when quite cold
a small quantity of Olive oil is gently poured
into each bottle; they are then as gently put on
a shelf, in a cool di-y pantry, where no scrubbing
ogre is allowed to disturb them, until they ai-e
wanted for use The moutlis of the bottles are
left uncovered and uncorked ; the oil keeps out
the air effectually. The only failure we have
had for many years was when three bottles of
Orleans Plums fermented. They were quite
ripe when bottled, and it should be borne in
mind that there is a point where ripeness ends,
and decay commences. We do not hesitate to
use old pickle-bottles, and even glass jars that
have come with French Plums; but we prefer
bottles, for when the water reaches half-way up
the neck, only a small quantity of oil is required.
Foreign Ex.
HOUSE PLANTS.
Abutilons to be repotted and encouraged to make
strong growth for winter. Prune as needed to im-
prove the shape.
Agapanihus. Give plenty of water during the
flowering season.
Begonias in pots shift and repot as needed.
Bouvardias, Intended for winter bloom should be
kept closely cut back at this time.
Cactases may be given water freely during the
bU)oming and growing period.
Calceolaria, Cineraria, Sweet Alyssum, Ten-Week-
Stix-k. Mignonette, etc., may l>e sown for winter
flowering.
Cyclamens for next year's flowering to be sown
during this month.
Fuchsias. These are well adopted for bedding plants
in situations sheltered from heavy winds and full sun.
Give them a light, rich soil, and keep down the red
spider l>y frequent spraying or sprinkling.
Geraniums for winter flowering had best be kept in
pots during the summer, with all flower buds closely
pinched out. For house decoration later on, some of
the plants, especially of the Rose-Geraniums, may be
lifted from the border some time this month and
potted, pinching back the leading shoots somewhat
at the same time.
General Direction. Watering can not be neglected
at this time without serious results. If possible water
at night during the summer season, and do this regu-
larly. But if soil Is found dry In the morning, do not
wait but water at once, and thoroughly.
Heliotropes and other wlnter-flowerlng plants In
pots ought now to be growing rapidly, and should be
pinched back every few weeks to Improve their shape.
Shift into pots one size larger as soon as the roots mat
about the ball of earth.
Hydrangeas when In bloom to be given an occa-
sional dose of liquid manure.
Insects can best be kept down by attending to proper
watering, and otherwise aiding thrifty plant growth.
Cleanse the foliage, remove dead leaves and faded
flowers, and pick off any stray insect you may flnd
troubling the plants.
Lantanas are easily grown as standards, with a
trunk three or more feet high. Keep all side shoots
down during the period of growth, and until the de-
sired height is reached.
Mignonette. See Calceolaria.
Osalis after flowering can be given water less freely.
Pomegranate. Encourage strong growth by fre-
quent applications ot weak liquid manure, as the
blooming season is now near at hand.
Primroses. Seed may be sown for winter flowering.
Plants of the Double Chinese to be kept in a cool
shady place, and sparingly watered.
Stakes. Cobaeas, Fuchsias and other plants that are
now making a rapid growth, had l>etter be given sup-
port by stakes.
Poinsettias. Directions for Heliotrope apply.
Vallotas, now beginning to bloom should be kept
well watered.
Roses. See directions for Heliotrope.
Veranda Boxes require much water at this time,
and the application should be rather in the form of
soaking than of spiiukllng. The appUcation must
reach clear to the very ceuter of the mass of earth.
Often the surface Is kept continuously moist, yet the
plants suffer because the moisture never reaches down
to the roots. Be thorough In this matter.
LAWN AND FLOWER GARDEN.
Annuals of ntosl sorts now begin to bloom. Be sure
the plant;* are not crowding each other. Thin early
and thoroughly. Many of our flnest plants have a
weedy appearance when left too close.
Asters are among our finest annuals, and reqidre
plenty of fcxid and moisture. Frequent applications
of liquid manure, or a mulch of good manure will do
much good.
Balsams, to appear at their best, should have part
of the young shoots removed when these appear in
super-abundance.
Candytuft. Seed may be sown this month In frames.
If plenty of flowers are desired after the open air sup-
ply is cut off by frost.
Carpet Beds set thickly with plants require plenty
of moisture, and to keep them at their best, a thorough
watering should be given once a week. Remove all
useless flowers, unhealthy leaves, weeds, etc. Trim
plants to regiUate the shape when needed.
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
22 ■
Olimbintc Plants now ktow rapiiily, aiul (h*- needed
support should not lie withheld.
Dahlias. If ttxi many side shoots appear, reniovc
part of them.
Lawn Management. In a hot, dry spell, the gra.sa
makes lint little growth, oud the lawu at sni*h times Is
Injured tiy too mneh mowing. The ntoHt troublesome
weed lu some lawns is Orab-grass^/Vuu'ewm sanj/Kt-
naU'). This is a lat"* annual, tlie stem of which lies
prostrate, taking n)ot at every Jidnt. The flower
cluster grows on stems tall enough to be cut by tlie
mower. As It is an annual, the preventive of seeding
should exterminate it. The mowings should be raked
up and burned, for fear that some seeds may ripen.
Misnonette. Sow In open air or cold fran\e for late
blooming.
Ornamental Flowering Shrubs. When ornamen-
tal shrubs are out of ilower, it Is well to cut away the
flower clusters and not allow the shrubs to exhaust
themselves in ripening seed, save those with ornamen
tal fruit. The same may be said of herbaclous peren-
nials, though of these seeds are often wanted.
Fansies may now be sowti for early spring forcing.
Propaeation. If it is desired to increase such kinds
of hardy perennials that ripen their .seed this month,
seed may be sown as soon Jis ripe. All fine shrubs and
plants can easily be increased by layering, while many
cannot be propagated in ani' other way. Make a de
pression in tiie ground at one side of the plant, and
bend do^vn into It a vigorous shoot. This latter should
have a notch cut out from the top. one third of the
way through at the lowest point of the bend. Cover
flrmly with mellow soil, Goo<l roots will usually be
formed In two months. Many herbaceous plants suc_
ceed best from seed. If sown at once after ripening,
and the plants will get large enough to stand the
winter with slight protection.
Rhododendrons. Remove seed pods and sprouts.
Roses should be frequently examined, for the pur
pose of removing bad flowers, and keeping down
strong growing sJioots.
Staking. All strong-growing, top-heavy plants, like
Dahlias, Gladiolus, Salvias, etc., must be staked and
tied for best results. A good way of staking large
specimens of Hydrangeas, Geraniums, etc., Is to have
the top of stake low enough to be Inside the plant, so
that the stake wiU not show, yet give all the support
needed.
Sweet Williams and other biennials to be sown for
next year's blooming.
Variegated Trees. Trees and shrubs with variega-
ted or fancy foliage often show signs of the common
type of foliage. All such should be promptly cut out.
Walks. Keep strictly clean of weeds and litter, and
the edges well trimmed and defined. The beauty of
the grounds greatly depends on this. Roll the walks
aft^-r hea\'y rains, and where convenient, sprinkle
freely in hot weather.
Weeds. Usually the good gardener has little trouble
from weeds, simply because thorough tillage such as
he practices, gives the weeds no show. The bortlers
must be gone over after every rain with hoe, rake,
digging fork, or any tool that will Icosen up the sur-
face. All stray weeds are pulled up whenever seen.
PLANT CULTURE UNDER GLASS.
Camellias. Keep these cool by shading the apart-
ment, sprinkling and free airing. Water regularly,
and syringe the plants at least three times a week.
Chrysanthemums in pots to have their final shift.
Sprinkle often from overhead. The pots may now be
plunged in ashes, In order to give the roots an even
temperature, and uninterrupted moisture.
Calceolarias. Seedlings to be pricked out as soon
as large enough to be handled. Into pots or pans
placing these In frames under shaded sash. Give air
and water as needed.
Cinerarias. Treat seedlings as advised for Calceo-
larias.
Cyclamens. Sow seed this month for next year's
blooming.
Euphorbias need not much room. Three or four
plants from spring-struck cuttings maybe kept In a
six or seven inch pot. Put some good fertilizer on the
soil In the pot, and give occasional doses of liquid
manure. Keep the heads of the plants as near the
glass as possible in a warm house.
Ferns. The large growing kinds should not be
allowed to crowd or over-shadow the smaller ones.
For Tree Ferns small pots or boxes are best, and the
feed may be provided by giving some liquid manure.
When ample root room Is given, these Tree Ferns often
outgrow their usefulness.
Mignonette. To grow plants for winter flowering
seed should go in not later than early in July. Sow'
directly Into small pots, a few seeds In each, and thin
the seedlings later on, to a single one to each pot.
Orchids to be provided with free circulation of air
to ripen the spring growth Use as little shading as
possible. Water paths and stages In the afternoon,
after which shut up for the night.
Repairs. The buildings, sashes, etc., should be ex-
amined, repaired and put in proper order; and new
buildings or Improvements completed, to have every-
thing ready for plants In September.
Poinsettias. Keep the spring struck plants growing
in heat If large heads are wanted. Keep heads close
to the gUuss,
Repotting shoniti be promptly atteuiled t^) with
Heliotrope. Hegonlas, Sweet Alyssuui, and similar
I'lants deslgneii tor winter blooming.
Roses. Keep th()sc Intended for winter flowering,
and now bedded out under glass, in a state of rest by
giviug no more water than needed to preventsoU from
drying out entirely.
FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD.
Currants. Use Hellebore for the Currant worm,
Any kind of netting thrown over the bushes where
bir<ls are troublesome will put a st<^p to their mischief.
Blackberries and Raspberries. Pick fruit just at
Its proper time, and market In clean baskets and crates*
Pinch back the young canes.
Grapes. Continue spraying with the Bordeaux mix'
ture as a preventive of mildew and rot. Tie as needed.
Insects. For aphis or green louse use Tobacco tea
or kerosene emulsion ; for Currant worm Hellebore ;
for slugs on Cherry and Pear trees, dry ashes or lime.
Mulching Is usually beneficial to fruit trees and
pjants.
Pruning may be done this month. As shoots start
up, where no branches are wanted, pinch them off,
and leave others where desirable. Where larger
branches are cut off, which is rarely called for with
good management, the wounds should be protected
from the weather by a coating of melted grafting
wax, or thick coarse paint.
Strawberries. For new plantations, we would pre-
fer potted plants provided these can be produced
right on the place. Layer the young runners, and
make them strike root In pots or pieces of inverted
sod, and set out where wanted as early as the plants
are well-rooted. They will then produce a crop next
year. As soon as the fruit Is all gathered on an old
plantation, give the beds a weeding, and apply a dress-
ing of well-decomposed manure. It may also be well
to try the new plan of mowing patch— plants, weeds,
and all, and set fire to the mowings when dry enough.
Thinning Is ,uow more generally practiced and
found profitable, not only with Peaches, Plums and
Pears, but also with Apples, Grapes, etc. Varieties
with close-growing bunches, like Delaware, Diana, etc.
may also have part of the berries clipped out of each
cluster with shears.
VEGETABLE GARDEN.
Beans. For a succession of String Beans the early
bush varieties may still be sown. In a rich, deep soil
they grow quickly and tender. Tie the Llmas to trellis
or poles. Cultivate and hoe often.
Cabbages. Transplant the late varieties from the
seed bed. The crops can be grown with but little
labor by marking the land three feet each way, and
setting the plants at the crossing of the mark ; this
will allow the plants to be cultivated both ways by
means of a cultivator. If some seed of Savoy Cabbages
were planted, the Cabbages will be found so superior
to the common kinds that they will always be sown
hereafter. They are the hardiest as well as the finest
of all. Keep the worms In check by applying buhaeh.
Cauliflower. The care required for a good crop of
Cabbages will raise a good crop of Cauliflowers.
Abundant manure, with thorough and careful culti-
vation, are the secrets of success.
Carrots. Continue to cultivate until the growth of
leaves prevents it.
Celery. The middle of this month Is early enough
to set good plants. Thorough preparation of the soil,
abundant manuring, will Insure success. Set lu rows,
three or four feet apart, and the plants six Inches in
the row. Of course the crops will need frequent and
careful cultivation. Celery makes its most rapid
growth when warm days are followed by cool nights.
Cucumbers for late pickles may yet be planted.
Herbs. ;Jnst before these come Into full bloom,
cut, lie Into small branches, and dry In shade.
Melons. Keep the ground well tilled, drawing soil
towards the plants, until the plants have well started
to run.
Radishes of the winter sorts may now be sown.
Sowing Seed, of such things as Kohl Rabl. Kale,
Lettuce, Turnips. Sweet Corn, Cucumber, etc., Is yet
In order.
Tomatoes look well when nicely staked, trellised
and trained. Try at least a few plants In this way.
Reserve the earliest and the most finely shaped for
seed. Make catsup and Tomato Sauce while the fruit
Is In its prime. Those who have greenhouses should
root cuttings from selected vines. These plants can
be kept through the winter without making much
growth, and give fruit when set out next spring much
earlier than plants from seed.
Turnips to be sown this month.
Weeds. Let none go to seed. Improve the dry
spelLs to kill every one.
over and stop all laterals. Fertilize the late ones with
liquid maimres. It is a good practice to remove Im-
perfectly fertilized berries from the bunches on iat-e
vines intended to be left on until Christmas.
Thoroughly cleanse all vines In early ami intermedi-
ate houses after the fruit Is taken off. Clean healthy
foliage Is Important for the perfect development of
next year's fruit buds.
Strawberries. Start the young plants now In pots
for ne.xt winter's crop. The layering is done as prac-
ticed for potted plants. liy keeping the pots well
watered, the plants will be well rooted In about three
weeks. Then take up and place In the shade until the
pots are full of roots, and s-hlft into six-inch pots,
using g<.)od fibrous earth. Keep In an open, airy place,
and give all the water they need.
Tomatoes. Plants grown from seed early this
month can be had to fruit in November. Plants should
be grown along In pots, starting tlie seed In the three-
inch size, and bringing them up for the ten or twelve -
size for fruiting. Use light fibrous soil, well enriched
with Some tine compost, or fertilizer.
FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER
GLASS.
G-rapes. Vines upon which the fruit begins to color
should have an abundance of air. Look the vines |
THE POULTRY YARD.
Oil Cake for Eggs. Feeding broken oil-cake
to fowls t wice a week will often promote laying,
when (fther foofl shall fail to give good results.
Fresh Water. This should be kept before the
fowls at all times now. It is a good plan to put
a drop of Carbolic acid, or a small piece of cop-
peras into the water every day, and to wash out
the dish thoroiigly and frequently.
The Office of Oyster Shell. It is now becoming
more generally n'c()y:nized that the lime con-
tained in crushed oyster shell is not so much
value in the ci'injidsition of the eggshell, as it is
food of to serve a good purpose as grit in the
grimling.
Withhold Food before Killing. Never feed
animals or poultry for thirty-six hours before
killing, nor give water for twelve hours. By so
d(»ing it will be easier to dress them, and a saving
of food will be the result if a large herd or flock
is to be slaughtered.
Success not Easy. It is a mistake to think
that a man who has never been able to make a
living at anything else— cnn go into the poultry
business and make a "^luiid success" of it*;
also, to try to keep lUO t<iwls thmugh the winter
that is none too large for half that number.
Asparagus. Another crop that does well in
the hen yard is Asparagus. The hens should be
kept out of it duriuiT the cutting season, but
when cutting stops, nbiiut .Tune ~0,then the hens
will find its shelter from the sun agreeable, and
will eat up lots of the young beetles on the lower
branches.
Give Fowls Hilk. Milk, sweet and sour, and
buttermilk are among the best things to give to
laying hens and growing chicks. For a change,
the sour milk may be made into what is known
as *• Dutch" cheese. This is a most excellent
food for young chicks, little turkeys, etc., and
beneficial for all fowls
Care of Young Chicks. Very young chicks
have small crups, therefore they require feeding
at least four to six times a day or every two
hours, give them different varieties of food such
as boiled Uice, table scraps, and never feed more
than they will eat uj) clean of soft food. Chicks
treated in this manner will grow fast, and be
ready for market at an early date.— Poultry and
Stock Review.
Cure for Egg Eating. To prevent hens from
eating eggs, f retiuently give them raw meat for
food, and be careful not to suffer broken eggs to
lie within reach at all. Also have the nests in
dark places, where the hens cannot easily see the
eggs. Another safe way is to have the nests
covered in such away that the hen hus not room
enough to stand perfectly upright. The entrance
should be from the side.
Fat Fowls not Wanted. Fowls in too fat a
condition cannot thrive. They will not only
stop laying, but will die of ajtuplexy and *tther
diseases. Corn andCornracal will bring u[) grow-
ing fowls at a good rate, :unl wt- know ot nothing
better, but for laying birds, wu do m»t want to
risk it. When fowls have a free range, plenty of
exercise and gravel, there is not so much danger,
but when confined to yards, especially in the
summer season. Corn should not be used. W^
give Wheat one week and Oats the next, and
only alternate with cracked Corn during the
winter time.— (lermautown Telegraph.
Feed Lightly. Fowls with unlimited range at
this time of the year need very little grain, and
no Corn. A little Oats or Wheat, or better still
both, may be given ; but there is so much green
stuff, and bugs and worms to be had for the
trouble ,of hunting for it, that only light
rations ot heavy food are needed. Fowls in
confinement, of course, must have their full
rations, but a good deal of their diet may con-
sist of freshly cut Clover, lawn mowings, etc.;
and Oats and Wheat will be found far preferable
to Corn. The ground in the yards should be
spaded or plowed up, a part at a time, so the
fowls can get to fresh soil, and pick out the
worms, etc. If possible, change occasionally
from one yard to another, that has been kept
vacant for a week or two.
224
POPULAR GARDENING.
July,
CorreapoiidenCa are urged to auttctpu.le the seuBon in pre
aenting queationa. To aak, for inatance.on April lbor2t)
what Feas had beat be soten. could bring tio answer tn
the May issue, and none before June, when the anawer
would be unaennonable. Questions received before the 12th
of any month stand a gooU chance of being anaipered in the
next paper. Not more than three questions should be sent
at one time. Answers to qu,,attons beurnn/ tm the com
paratit^e vaiue of ivipiements. etc., offered by different
dealers must not be expected. Neither cati we promise to
comply teiih. trie retpieat aometimes made to "please answer
by 7itail." Inquiries appearing without name belong to the
name next fotloioing .
Replies to Inquiries are earnestly requested from our
readers. In answering such give the number, your
locality and name, the latter not for publication, unless
you desire. Write only on one aide of the paper.
1,978. Hardy Plants for Cut Flowers. What plants
and shrubs do you ret'ommeud to Kive an abundauce
of cut flowers all the season?— Wakmoth, New Jersey.
1,87'J. Green Fly on Hawthorn. Ants do great
damage to my Hawthore hedge. Scarcely a sprout
escapes them. What Is the remedyi'—.I. B. K., New
Albany, Ind.
1,88(1. Out-door Roses for Bloom- Will hardy Roses
bloom the ttrst season after setting In open field?— J. J.
J... Titus Hill. N. Y.
l.ssi. Remedy for Pear Slug. How can I get rid of
the sluK that destroys my Pear foliage?— D. K., Mass.
1,S82. Heating Greenhouse by Gas. Can gas be
used as fuel to heat a uitiTow greenhouse ^ feet long?
How tu be arranged!'— Constant Reader,
1,883. Early Bearing of Tomatoes. Will staking or
tyln.-? to trellis m I'i- frulc ej.rli-ir't-J.L.P.Marion.O .
1.S84. Kiirogen from the Atmosphere. Do rains
and the atmosphere furnish to our plants an apprecia-
ble quantity of nitrogen?— W. A. B„ Persia, Iowa.
1.885. Columbines Flowering Double. My plants,
at first giving large single flowers, are now giving
smaller double flowers. No individuality left, nor
much beauty. What can I do to get them single again?
— U. L. B., La Orange, IHs.
l.SWi. Growing Tree Seedlings. Please give us
some Information about growing Apple, Pear, Plum
and Cherry seedlings.
1,887. Nurserymen's Supplies. Can you give me
the address of parties who furnish such?
1,S88. Journal for Nurserymen. Is there any paper
published in the interest of nurserymen?- H. L. B.,
liising Sun, Indiana.
1,8&9. Cucumber Pickles. Can you give a lew good
recipes for pickling cucumbers?— J. R. W., Conn.
1,89(1. Experiment Stations. Please give list of the
most prominent?— J. R. P., Breckenride, Mo.
1,891. Culture, of Tropical Fruits. Is there any
work on growing Oranges, Lemons, Ba'^anas, etc.?
Where can It be had?— T. H., Bentoii Harbor, Mich.
J,892. Plants Blooming in May. Please give list of
Serennials, bulbs, etc., bloomiug by Decoration Day?—
. K., Iowa.
1,893. Quality of Sweet Corn. Is this Influenced by
soil or climate?— U. S. T., Monroe, N. Y.
1,894.' Remedy lor Snails. What can 1 do to get rid
of the disgusting snails in my Fernery?— Mrs. S., Ohio.
1.895. Repotting Camellias. When is the proper
time to do this?— Subscriber.
1.896. Soil for India Rubber Plant. What soil is
best for It? My plant does not thrive.— S. J. W., lA>ng
Island. N. Y.
1.897. Sunray Fuchsia. How can It be made to
grow rapidly and thriftily? -Mr.s. F. R.. Wisconsin.
1,89s. Bleaching Celery. Which method is simplest
and preferable for the home garden?— Celery Lover.
1,899. Asparagus Varieties. Have any of the newer
sorts proved to be superior to Conover's Colossal?—
Wm. F. C, Indiana.
1,9011. Propagating Choice Strawberry Varieties.
Which Is the most rajtld way of growing plants?— P. G.
E., Chainbe rsbu rg, Pa.
1.901. Cutting Sweet Potato Vines. Should they be
allowed to run at will or cut off?— F. T., Columbus, O.
1.902. Blood- leaved Peach. Is it hardy and pro-
ductive, and worthy of propagating for its fruit alone?
Will pits give desirable stock for budding?— P. M. W.,
Iteinersville, O.
1.903. Cheap Propagating House. Please give plan
<ff small liouse, say 30 feet long by 10 or U feet wide?—
E. A. B,, Kittaning, Pa.
1,9(W. Book on Evergreens. Does Fuller's Practical
Forestry treat fully on i-alslng and caring Evergreens?
Or what other w()rk does this?— C. G. S., Jr., lUinois.
1.905. Transplanting Trees and Perennials in
Autumn. Can I transplant Dahlias, Peonies, Apple
and Pear trees by Sept. 25th successfully?— A. S.,Penn.
1.906. Season of Budding. Which Is the best time
t<) bud Plums on Peach, Pears on Quinces. Cherries on
Mahaleb? Should the latter be cut back before bud-
ding?-.!. G. K., Ky.
1.907. Soaking Seed Before Planting. Is this a good
practleeornot?— F. T. T., W. Va.
I.HIIH. Golden Elder. Can tills be recommended as
an ornamental shrub? --M. N., Dhio.
1.9tl9. Cultiyating Young Orchards. How long
should cultivation be continued Into the suninieror
fall?— Elwood, Maine.
1.910. Grafting Herbaceous Growths. Can Cucum-
bers be successfully grafted upon each other, or Pota-
toes upon Tomatoes, etc.?— R. S., Metropolis.
1.911. Deutzia crenala not Blooming. Plant set
four years ago, of strong growth. How should I treat
It ?— R. (Jr. P.. Burlington, Vermont.
1.912. Currant Worm. Please give life history.— D.
F., Belair Mo.
1.913. Pomegranate not Blooming. They are In
vigorous health. How are they to be treated.
1,915. Cactus Culture. How should plants be treated
to make them bloom ? F. F., Frankford, Pa.
l.yifi. Curled Leaf of Peach. What is the cause and
remedy?— L. O., .'l;i« Arbor. Mivh.
1.917. Dwarf-Red-Flowering Horse Chestnut,
Where can it be obtained ?
1.918. Buffalo Berry. Where can I get it ?— Wm. H.
O., Ohio.
1.919. Insect on Black Currant. What insect
attacks the leaves, making them curl up, and what
remedy is there?— C. H. D., Toronto, Canada.
1.920. Growing Pine-Apples. Please give Instruc
lions.— D. W. C, Cleburne, Texas.
1.921. Thi;ips on Strawberries. Which is the best
way of flghtlug them ?— M. S. B., Nebraska.
1,932. Planting Fruit Trees. How late In the sea-
may this be done ?
1.923. Asparagus Beds. How long do they u.sually
last In good order ?— W. W. R., Toronto Can.
1.924. Barren Gooseberry bushes. My plants eight
or ten years old do not bear. What Is the reason ?
1.925. Fall Planting of Trees, etc. What exact
time is best for this work ?— F. E. H., Iowa.
I,!)2(^. Remedy for Black Knot. Is Linseed oil a
sure remedy, and how applied?- G Q, D., Neiv
Hampshire.
1,937. Treatment of Cannas. What m\l Is best?
Will liquid manure be benefleial ?— Old Sub, Colo.
REPLIES TO INQUIRIES.
1.791. Crops in Shade. Most vegetables e<»uld
be grown in a siiady place, provided it i.s not
under trees. Strawberries would do well, and
Currants would succeed as well as Cherries.
Lettuce and liadishes would thrive. These crops
would be a little later than those having the
benefit of the sun rays. Under the shade of trees
the green and variegated Periwinkles, Hepaticas,
Hleeding Heart, Wood Anemones. Violets, Nas
turtiums, Primroses, Polyanthuses, Auriculas,
Solomon's Seal, Lily of the Valley, Daffodils, Nar-
cissus, St. John's Wort, Mahonias, Hardy Ferns,
and the Leopard'8 Bane would all thrive. The
spot could be made very enjoyable by a liberal
use of semi-tropical plants during the summer
months.— H. W. Smith, La.
l,79ti. Exotic Grape Plants. The eyes are sel-
ected from primings that have been reserved for
the purpose. The eye is prepared by cutting in
a slanting direction, away from the bud, about
half an inch above the eye, and making a straight
cut about an inch below. These eyes are placed
in small pots or in pieces of sf)d, and subjected to
a temperature, varying from 70° to 80°. They
are repotted as they re(iuire.— H. W. Smith, La.
1,78:.'. Pruning the Pear for Fruit. Mr. P.
Tiarx-y, in his Fruit Garden, says on the subject
of pruning to induce fruitfulness: This is con-
ducted on the principle that whatever is favora-
ble to rapid, vigorous growth, is unfavorable to
the immediate production of fruit. Hence, the
object in view must be to check growth and
impede the circulation of the sap— just the oppo-
site of pruning to renew growth. The only
period at which this pruning can be performed
is after vegetation has commenced. If a tree is
severely pruned immediately after it has put
forth it^ leaves, it receives such a check as to be
unable to produce a vigorous growth the same
season; the sap is impeded in its circulation, and
the result is that a large number of the young
shoots that would have made vigorous wooded
branches had they not been checked, assume the
character of fruit spurs and branches. Pinching
is the principal mode of pruning to promote
fruitfulness. This pinching is a sort of antici-
pated pruning practiced upon the young grow-
ing shoots. A shoot of which the point was
broken, bruised or otherwise injured during the
growing season, frequently becomes a fruit
branch either during the same or the following
season; and this, especially if situated in the
interior of the tree, or on the older and lower
parts of the branches. The check given to the
extension of the shoot concentrates the sap in
part remaining; and unless the check has been
given very early in the season, or the growth is
very vigorous in the tree, so that the buds will
break ond form shoots they are certain to pre-
pare for th<' iiri.ductioii (»f fruit. It is on this
principleof clu'ckin-j- tlir ^'mwth and conceutrat-
in the pinched shunt, that pinching to induce
fruittuluess is iMcfrncd; and its efliciency may
be estimated from the l"a«-t thut trees on which it
has been practiced have borne fruit Unir or live,
and porhap^i seven years, sooner thiin they would
have dune without it. It is a must n>i-ful ojiera-
tiou in the ease of vigorous growing and tardy
bearing sorts. The mode of performing it is to
pinch off the end of shoot with finger and thumb.
1,783. Eucharis. It always helps us to a
knowledge of the needs of any plant, especially
one which like the Eucharis has a reputation of
being difficult to manage, to learn how they grow
in a wild state. In the present instance the plant
is found at the sides of rivers in tropical South
America, hence we may know at once that the
essentials to growth and bloom are moisture and
heat. These conditions provided, together with
drainage to the pot so that the soil may not be-
come stagnate, and it is no difficult matter to
succeed in cultivatingthis beautiful purest-white
flower. By having a dozen or more large pots of
the plants, it may be had in bloom in a
hot house the greater part of a year. The most
suitable temperature is about 70*^. Sunshine a
part of each day is one of the essentials, and
while the plant ismakinggrovvth,plenty of water
must be provided, together with licjuia manure
at intervals of two or three days. The plants
should also be syringed daily during all periods
of active growth. Some cultivntuvs make the
mistake of disturbing the bull)s tu.. utten; this
must not be done. Repot as they need from one
size to another without dividing the roots until
they become too unwieldy to handle well. Side
shoots taken off at any time and brought along
with good attention, should show tlieir first
flowers in a year's time. Hepotting may take place
at any season;in doing this it isproperto remove
most uf the (lid eiuth, using for new material a
compust eunsistnig uf well-rotted manure, some
leaf mold and light sandy loam. If the latter
ingredient is hu-king, use ordinary loam with
plenty uf sand added. To <»btain flowers in the
winter the plants should be given a season of part-
ial rest for two months in mid summer, dur-
ing which time water should be used sparingly. -
A, H. E.
1,802. Wall Flowers Keeping Over. Attempts at
keeping these plants beyond their flowering sea-
son are not made by the best culti\'ators, the
plants being hardly other than half-hardy bien-
nials. The means of perpetuating the stock is
either by sowing the seed of the plants flowering
the spring following or else by propagation from
cuttings in the spring, a course necessary with the
best double varieties,as there is no assurance that
seedlings will be perfectly double in any consid-
erable measure. To slip them, take present year's
shoots at about the end of May; smooth the cut
end with a sharp knife. Cut the lower leaves
away about one inch and a half up from the
bottom, ami then set the euttin^^^ in some sandy
soil in a shady sput, liu\ in^' them about four
inches ajiart. Sprinkle three times a day when
the weather is di-y. In about three weeks there
should be roots, when the plants may be set in a
partly shaded spot of mellow soil, here to grow
until fall. About Octflber pot the plants and
keep through the winter in a cold frame or light
cellar.-A. H. E.
1,781. Number of Vines in Grapery. In a vinery
of the size mentioned one vine might be planted
in the centre, and a rod led along the eaves to
each end of the house; or a vine might be planted
at one end and a rod led to the opposite end under
the eaves, with laterals as above. If this is not
thought desirable, four vines might be planted
four feet apart, commencing two feet from the
ends of the house and the rods led to the ridge.
In no case should the rods or laterals be nearer
the glass than 4 inches. The spur system of
pruning should be adopted. Preferably I should
plant the Black Hamburgh If the greatest
amount of success is coveted, it would be well to
make a border and see that the drainage is good.
Garden soil of fair rjualiry could be used, and if
a few loads of siind and idd mortar were added,
as well as a few crushed bones, and a few bushels
of charcoal. Grapes of the best quality might be
grown. The roots might be planted outside, and
in this case the exposed portion of the stems
would need to be protected according to the
locality —W. H. Smith, La.
1,811. Cypripedium Spectabile. This lovely
terrestrial Orchid is often referred to as the Moc-
casin Flower or Lady's Slipper. The plant is not
at all difli»rult so grow. It requires a shady pos-
ition, and to be planted in leaf mold; and after
it is planted it should have a layer of an inch of
Sphagn\im moss spread over the roots. The soil
needs to be well drained, as the plant requires
abundance of moisture at the roots. It should be
transplanted, potted or divided in early spring
before growth commences. It is quite hardy.—
H. W. S., La.
1,926. Bemedy for Black Knot. Cutting out
and burning all parts of the trees showing the
least indication of being infected with this
disease, is by all odds the surest, simplest, and
(juiekest of all remedies thus far suggested.
Still, we can have no doubt, after having listened
to the testimony of expert Plum growers, that
the mere peeling off of the exc-reseenees, and
painting the wounds with Linseed oil or turpin-
tinc, if only done pntmptly and persistently,
will also ]iut astop to the progress of the disease.
Our in<iuiring friend can resort to this renudy,
if he dislikes the more heroic treatment; but
we must repeat that success is not to be likely
without promptness of action, and persistency
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
225
1,'.'0N. Ooiden Elder, An Kn^rlish writer speaks
of it iis follows: Tliis useful plnnt should Im?
jji'own on 11 sunny bank in a mass or in the front
of the shrul)l)eries, as when Itacked up by other
foliiiKe nf a tiark (.-olor the olleet is inipro\'ed.
To reruU-r the leu\e^ larjfoi'and ol a deep ^()lcien
tint, pinrh out the point of eaeh shnot, when the
(■<il(u- will einnmenee to deepen at onee and re-
main inure jfohlen all the summer than when it
is allowed freedom. The tallest bushes ean be
re^rulated to a nieety to jrive the best effect, as
in a sloping position a larger area of golden
foliage is seen than when the front row of plant.s
is aihiwed to grow the tiUIest- Hy timely and
judieious pinching a better effect is obtained
thiui by allowing the gmwths to ramble at will.
U7VH. Crops in Shade. There are a few
elimlH?i-s that will give perfect satisfaction under
the shade of a large tree. These, and the only
ones that will do it, are— the green-leaved vart-
cties of Ivies If the shade is nor too dense and
some good soil can be given to start them in
several of the strong-growing <'leraatis may
succeed, including C. montanaand C. Flammula.
<\ Jaekamani I have had do well on an arch
untUM' the shade of a tree where the branches
did not come very low down; but the plants
nuist be well supported. The common Honey-
suckles will grow in the shade if the top can
struggle out into the sunshine. The Hop will
grow in the shade under similar conditions.— ^-1 ' -
lantic.
1,!>:.'7. Treatment for Cannas. Catuias delight
beyond all else in a very fertile soil. It does
not matter so much whether the land is muck or
sand or any other kind, so long as it is thonmgh-
ly enriched with strong stable nuuiiin'. In fact
to make the substance one-third manure would
give all the better results in tine growth. The
('anna also ilelights in plenty of moisture at the
root.s. It is almost impossible to overdo the
matter of watering. An excellent course to
produce tine results with the plants is to leave
a depression in the soil about each one and fill in
se\'eiiil inches of manure gathered from the
stable, and then filling such basin with water
two or three times each week.
1,W5. Autumn Transplanting. Trees and
shrubs can be transplanted successfully at almost
any titpe of the year, with proper treatment.
At the latter part of September the wood and
foliage of most trees is nearly mature, and we
would not hesitate to transplant trees at that
time, but if the leaves are yet in growing condi-
tion, it may be advisible to strip the branches.
l.HJd. Culture of Tropical Fruits. California
P''ruits and How to Grow them is the title of a
.■)titi page volume by Edward Wickson, A. M.,
published by Dewey & Co., San Francisco, Cal.
This treats cjuite fully on the culture of Oranges,
Itiinanas and other tropical fruits. We do not
know the price of the work.
REPORT ON THE CONDITION OF THE FRUIT CROP
From our Correspondents, June 2o, 1 890.
Explanation: 5, indioaU's a very heavy crop; 4, over average; 3, average; 2, under average;
1, poor; 0, total failure. Kinds chicHy grown indicated by full face figures.
EASTERN SECTION.
■i C B- a li
Correspoudcnts.
11"
Vermont.
Orleans C'lmnty 5 .5 3
Chittendeu " 5 3 3
Pennsylvania.
Philadclpliia County 0 0 2
Lanca.^ter " 4 4 3
Lancaster " 3 2 3
Lackawanna " 2 2 3
Franklin " 1 2 1
Franklin " 2 I 2
Dauphin " 3 3 4
I'umberland " 2 3 3
Chester " 2 2 1
Chester " 1 1 0
Centre " 1 1 1
Butler " 0 0 2
Bucks " 3 3 3
Berks " 2 2 3
Bradford " 3 3 1
.Allegheny " . .. o n O
Warren " ... 1 1 I
Montour " 1 1 2
Crawford "' 1 1 1
l)EL.\WAHE.
New Castle County U 0 2
Kent '• 1 1 1
Sussex " 1 2 1
New Jersey.
Union County 112
Monmouth " 2 2 3
Orange " 3 3 2
Essex " 1 1 1
Burlington " 0 0 0
Atlantic " 2 2 I
Burlington " 3 0 0
New YoKk.
Wayne County 1 1 2
Yates " 3 B 3
Ulster " 3 3 2
Tomi)kins " 1 I 0
Suffolk " 1 1 0
Suffolk " .... 2 2 0
Seneca " 3 3 2
Onondaga " 1 1 2
Orleans •' 0 1 1
Oneida " 4 4 4
Niagara •' 0 O 2
Niagara " 1 O 1
Niagara " 3 1 3
Monroe " 8 a 2
Monroe " 1 1 2
Livingston " 0 0 0
Erie " 2 1 2
Chautaurjua " ... 1 1 2
Chautamiua " 3 2 3
Cayuga " 2 2 2
Wayne " 1 1 1
Chautauqua " I 1 2
Ontario " 1 O 1
Albany " 2 1 3
Genesee " 0 O 1
Oswego " 1 1 4
Connecticut.
Tolland County 1 1 1
Middlesex '• 1 1 1
LitchHeld " 3 3 2
Hartford " 2 2 3
Massachusetts.
Worcester County 2 3 1
Hampshire " 4 4 5
Hampden " 3 3 3
Norfolk " 2 2 4
epLiPHPno.o'^paSccB
3 0 0 0 5
3.32 3
4 4
3 4
3 0 U U
1 O -.J '.i
3 O 0 0
0
0
o
0 4
0 3
0 0
0 1
B 1
4 .
3 3 T. H. Hoskins.
3 3 C. W. Mmott.
2 3
3 3
3 3
3 2 Thos. Mchaii & Son.
r, S Eii^'IciV Mro.
3 3 II. .M. V.uKh:
3 3 Isiuic F. Tillinghast.
2 2 B. B. Erigle.
. . B. L. Ryder-.
. E. C. Briiiser.
4 John F. Ilupp.
2 J. A. Roberts.
1 Joseph H. Kent.
3 Wni. A. Buckhout.
0 George W, Phillips.
3 Wm. H. .Moon.
2 CyiiisT. Ff).\.
. Fri'.l II. Ciu'd.
0 Jatnes Seinple.
2 2 3 F. II. Miller.
3 A. Judstm Still.
3 3 3 Mrs. E. L. Patterson.
2 1 . Edw. Tatnall.
3 3 3 Wesley Wells.
13 3
0 0 0
1
0 0 0
5 2
3 3
2 3
3 3
0 0
3 3 2.
3 0 4 3
3 J. H Shotwell.
3 F. M. White.
T. II Spaulding.
3 E. Williams.
2 B. Shedaker.
. Wm. F. Bassett.
3 B. D. Shedaker.
3 3
4 5
4
4 4
3 4
3 3
5 5
.5 5
3 3
4 4
3 I 1
4 1 3
3 0 1
3 2 3
1 3
1
2 2 2
0 3 2
1 3 1
1 2 1
3 1 2
1 0 3
3 4 3
3
4
3
1
5
3
5
4
3
3
3
5
4
4
.5
5
3
4
W. L. Dcvereaux.
Geo. B Arnold.
H. Hendricks.
P. B. Crandnll.
P. H. Foster.
E. D. Putnoj-.
Geo. A. Bonnell.
Smiths, Powell & Lamb.
V. Brogue.
E. P. Powell.
Heruy Lutts.
J. K. Pcrrijio.
Moody \- Sons.
Joseph Harris.
Ellwanger & Barry.
L. D. Elder.
E. Willett.
L. Koesch,
E. H. Pratt.
D. M, Dunning.
David Lake.
.s. S. Cri.ssey.
F. Greiner.
J. A. Lintner.
J. F. Rose.
L. J. Farmer.
4 3 3 2
3 . .
5 3 3 3
1 3 3
5 2 2 Wm. H. Yeomans.
.5 3 3 W. A. Doolittle.
3 3 3 T. S. Gold.
3 3 . S. B. Kcach.
3 3 3 W. H. Perry.
4 3 . William N. Hoyt.
4 3 . F. H. Horsford.
5 4 Warren H. Manning.
1,S!I4. Bemedy for Snails. Sister (iraeious tells
of her troubles with the "varmints" in Ameri-
can Garden. An effective trap, she says, was
discovered accidentl.v. I planted some Fern
seed in a (lower pot saucer and put it under the
glass. Ne.\t time I took it out, I found three fat.
snails on tlie bottom, and next day some more
I exainiiir the case every day and the number
grows less and less; 1 shall get them all in time.
The Ferns and Begonias look much better ; my
trap is a success.
l.HHO. Experiment Stations. The bulletins of
the stations are mentioneil under heading of
" Received at this OIHcc," at the end of reading
columns of each issue of Popular Gardening.
In every instance the name and residence of the
director of the respective station is given, By
examming this department, you will be enabled
to get the addresses of directors of all the prin-
ciple stations. Another way of getting this in-
formation is tfl address the United States Depart-
ment of Agriculture, Otiice of Experiment
Stations, Washington, D. C , for a copy of the
Experiment Station Record.
1,889. encumber Pickles. Quite a voluminous
book might be written on the subject, so many
recipes, and very good ones, are given. One
way of preparing Cucumber pickles, says the
New England Farmer, is to pour boiling salted
water over the Cucumbers and let them stand
twenty-four hours; repeat the scalding on the
second and third days. Use one-quarter cup of
salt to three quarts of water. On the fourth
morning heat enough vinegar to cover them
with a little alum added and turn over the Cu-
cumbers; let them stand until the next day.
Now drain and put the pickles into jars and
cover them with good strong vinegar. Add to
each gallon of vinegar used one-half cup of
white Mustard seed, a small piece of alum, a
tablespoontui of brown sugar and a few well
bruised Horse-radish roots. Any one who is
planning to make Cucumber pickles to sell must
be prepared with vines enough to give a gener-
ous crop daily of very small Cucumbers. Those
sold in bottles and .jars are not the huge pickles
which are the only kind many ijeopli' make and,
however eatable, do not meet the reqiiinnicnts
of the market. Another good way, ilescribcd by
the Country Gentleman, is the following:— Make
a brine of two pounds of salt to one gallon of
wat<?r, and keep them in it about two weeks,
stirring up from the bottom every few days.
Then take them out of the brine and let them
lie in fresh water a day, and they are ready for
pickliiifr— i>idy do not put the vinegar on them
wliilc till y are wet. Take them out and spread
them till they are dry, or, if the number does
not forbid, wipe them off. The ob,iect of this
is to retain their crlspness Those that are not
crisp when you take them from the brine should
be discarded. Use strong vinegar, and dilute
with water, as this softens them. The vinegar
should be heated in a granite iron kettle, or un-
glazed earthen one, for salt and vinegar will
dissolve the lead in the glazing of any article.
Add to one gallon of vinegar a teacupful of
sugar, three dozen Peppercorns, two teaspoon-
fuls of Cloves (whole) Allspice, and a dozen
blades of Mace. Let these boil in tlie vinegar
ti\e minutes, and then pour over the Cucumbers
wliile it is scalding hot Protect them from the
air by having the stone ,iar full, .so that putting
on the cover will run it over, the same as sealing
canned fruit. The third day they should be
taken out, and the vinegar again scalded and
poured over them the same as before. Handle
them always with a wooden spoon. This process
should be repeated twice after this, with an in-
terval of three days between. They may taste
fairly in a month, but will he far better in three
months, and in fact time treats them kindly, as
it does wine— when you have them right to start
with.
1,898. Bleacbing Celery. Of the two methods
suitable for home garden, namely earthing up,
and bleaching b.v boards, I hardly know which
to call the simpler. I am sure either will answer
well enough, and no simpler or better is known
to me. With the few plpnt-s in the home garden,
the labor of " banking " is not considerable, and
the job ean be done at odd and convenient times.
Begin as early in the season as the plants are
large enough, in order to have an early supply
of good Celery to use. For late fall use earth
up a week or two later, and use this most delici-
ous vegetable freely. Many people have it aU
right for use all during the fall, but are too
choice with it to use all they want, and then lose
a good portion of it by leaving it out too long.
Heavy freeze-ups usually come suddenly, and
we must be prepared tor them. When "a few
boards, ten or twelve inches wide, are at cora-
man<l. the bleaching can be done very easily by
encasing I'ach row with two lines of"boards, to
be held by little pegs or stakes driven into the
ground from sliding away from the rows at the
ground, and with strings, or slats nailed across,
from spreading apart on top. Celery intended
for winter or sprmg use should only be handled,
not bleached in the open ground. The bleaching
can be done in winter storage in the cellar or
trench.— G. K.
226
POPULAR GARDENING.
July,
<» - s • » • • » m- -■" -" -S V
EASTERN SECTION. »»-gSS^-SoB6fg'g^
^%,&p.'o£iaoo.'gSgs Correspondent.
New Hampshire. ^ ^
HockinKham " .. 4 4 . . 4 . . . 3 3 . 5 4 . George Q. Dow.
Maine.
Curabcrlanrl County .33332234. 33333 A. P. Reed.
AndroscoKgin " ....3334.443.343 3 3 L. K. Abbott.
Rhode Island. , .. „
Providence County 3 3 0 3 2 2 2 3 3 3 4 4 3 3 Joseph H. Bowcu
Canada.
VVelland County 3 2. ^ 4343. 5 28532 2 E. Morden.
Lincoln " . .333423333. 43 3 D. W Beadle
Yarmouth •' ... 5 4 3.3.43 3 Charles E. Brown.
CENTRAL SECTION.
Ohio.
Belmont County ...11140 0 00034 3 3 3 B. F. Starliuch
Belmont " 1 3 1 3 0 1 1 1 0 3 b 4 3 3 K. \V. Rcid.
Columbia " 00330000134 31 1 Harry G. Wolfifaug-.
<Mvahoita '• 2 2 3 3 0 3 2 5 3 3 3 3 2 3 K H. Cushman.
CuyahoKa " 0 0 2 3 11113 13 3 1 2 M.T. Thompson.
FairHcId " 2 2 0 3 0 2 2 0 13 4 3 3 3 0. Brandt.
Franklin " 112 4 0 112 2 4 4 4 3 2W. J. Green.
Hamilton •' ...3213 0 00013421 2 Geo. W. Trowbridge.
Lake " 0023111234443 3 Ptorrs & Harrison Co.
Lake " 0 0 1 3 0 0 0 0 0 5 .5 3 2 4J. H. Tryon.
Lickine " 12 13011 3 35542 2 A. M. Niehol.
Lucas " 1114111344442 3 W. W. Farnsworth.
Portage ■' ...1113000013331 2 Andrew Willson.
Portage " 1 0 1 3 0 0 0 0 0 3 44 2 3 Frank Ford.
Summit ' 2 3351110 134 53 4 M.Crawford.
Tuscarawas " U11OO111033412 Daniel Wyss.
Washington " 1 2 1 4 0 1 1 0 0 3 3 3 1 1 VV. W. Rathbone.
Darke " 1123132.23353 2 Geo. Townsend.
Kentucky. ,„ , ,
Wai-ren County 112 51 110 0 555 1 1 A. D. Webb.
Indiana. ... ^
Delaware County 3 3 1 2 0 2 2 1 o 5 4 . 1 Granvdle ( owmg.
Flovd " ...12230110 2444 3 3 .1. P. Applegate.
Hendricks " 2233022 3 4433 3 Mordecai Carter.
Putnam " 3 3 4 3 2 4 3 0 2 3 5 4 3 2 W. H. Ragan.
Tippecanoe " 3354133404543 4 J. Troop.
La(irangc " ....1113223.5453 3 J. C. Grossman.
Illinois.
Champaign County 2 243122 1 4434 3 G. W. McCluer.
DuPage •' 3 .43. .0.5 553 1 Phil. Strublcr.
Hancock " 33440334345434 A.C.Hammond.
Kno.\ " 4433023 534534 3 Will. M. Kellogg.
McLean " 33 5 44 333 5553 4 Sidney Tuttle & Co.
Madison " 3 50513345342 3 2 Mrs. W A. Uucknell.
Marion " 333513S12 355 2 3 Jennie Sjiencer.
Marion " 3 3 13 11112 3 3 3 3 3 B. C. Warfleld.
Jackson " ...331513313 5 533 3 Geo C. Hanlord,
Michigan.
Berrien County 133 40 1 10 3 4 4 54 4W. A. Smith.
Clinton " 331443 3. . 5433 4 I. A. Wooll.
Kalamazoo " 33244112 3 2443 3 J. N. Stearns.
V'an Buren " 2334013113333 1 George C. Lawton
Van Buren " 34553 2 33455535 T. T. Lyon.
Lenawee " 11131113333232 Peter Coller,
Wisconsin.
Dane County 3 3 3.. .2.3353 3 E. S. Goff.
Outagamie " 4433.333.5 55 4 3 W. D. Boynton.
Rock " 3335 . . -3 . 55544 Geo. J. Kellogg.
Walworth " .3333.112.3344 4 F. K. Phoenix.
SOUTHERN SECTION.
Alabama.
Madison County 1203011 (I .212. - Virgil Wilson.
Florida.
Manatee County 30.440.2 5 . Reasoner Bros.
St. John •• 0 0. . 1 . . 1 3 - . W. C. Steele.
Georgia.
Fulton County 00121001132200J J. Toon.
Macon •' 2 1 1 5 1 1 1 (I 1 2 2 2 . - Samuel H Rumph.
Richmond " .. 1 1 . 2 0 1 1 0 0 3 4 3 . . P. J- Beiokmans.
Carroll " . 0 1 3 3 1 0 1 0 1 3 1 3 . . R. N. Moody.
North Carolina.
McDowell County 0 11410 0 114 5 2. . Chas. C. Liudlcy.
South Carolina.
Chester County 11131111 .353. . H.A.Green.
Texas.
Washington County .00.2000000330 0 William Watson.
Grayson " 1 1 0 5 1 0 0 1 3 3 2 3 0 0 S. V. Munson.
Tennessee.
Gilson County 1113311 o 0333. 3 C. M. Mervin.
Virginia.
Accomack County .23131220033311 McMath Bros.
Norfolk " 0 1 0 2 0 0 0 0 0 2 4 3 . 1 G. F. B. Leighton.
WESTERN SECTION
Arkansas.
White County 1 1 . 5 0 0 0 0 0 2 2 3 - Jacob C. Cauer.
Pulaski " 3 3 0 3 1 0 0 1 0 3 4 30 OW. K. Tipton.
Nebraska
Nemaha County 4 3 4 3 0 3 3 1 0 5 5 5 1 3 Robt. F. Furnas.
Jefferson " ...332203334533 4 G. J. Carpenter.
Kansas.
Douglas County 4. 34 433 32 35 53 3 G. C, Rrackett,
Lawrence " B.F.Smith.
Lawrence " 3333123333553 2 A. W. firiesa.
Leavenworth " 5 4 3 3 1 3 4 5 2 5 5 5 4 5 J. Stayman.
Lawrence ': 3 13. . 2 2 . 2 4 5 1 1 B. F. Smith,
Missouri.
Jackson County 3 34 41 1 2 1 3 53 52 4 L. A. Gooiiman.
Greene " 3 32511122454 3 4 D. S. Holmaii.
Jasper " 3323 1220 1344 3 3 Z. T. Russell.
Jefferson " 12231110.343. 3 T. W. (iuy.
McDonald " 4 434333125534 3 Mrs. Lora S. LaMance.
Miller " 2 334132 2 2342 3 4 H. J. Shepherd.
Montgomery " 1135112105542 5 Samuel Miller.
St. Louis " 3 3 2 4 1 1 10 2 4 4 3 . . M. K. Murtfeldt.
Vernon " ...4325123104563 3 Jacob Faith.
Minnesota.
Blue Earth County .11 . 4 . . 2 . 3 3 3 3 4 J. H Vandervort.
Grant " ... 1 3 3 ... 4 . 5 4 4 5 3 S. Frogner.
Hennepin " 4 5.4 .4.5444 3 S. D. Hillman.
Houston " 4 3 0 3 . . 3 5 5 2 2 2 John S. Harris.
California.
Contra " 3 3 2 5 3 3 3 3 4 3 4 3 3 0 Dr Strentzel.
Sonoma " 3 3 4 4 2 3 3 4 4 3 4 3 4 4 1). B. Weir.
Iowa.
Scott County 3 3 4 3 0 0 0 3 U 5 5 3 3 3 Mrs. M R Waggoner.
Jackson " 4 3 4 2 1 4 4 5 2 3 D. A. Fletcher.
l,'Mr>. Fall Planting of Trees, etc. Trees and
shrubs may be planted in autumn from the time
the leaves begin to mature until the ground
freezes up solid. We always prefer to plant
n'ii>iciTi;ibly curly, to give the trees and their
rcpnt> ii chance to read.iust themselves, and get
tirnil\ established in their new quarters.— G. T.
l.HS:!. Asparagns Beda. With good treatment
in the way of food, clean cultivation, and mod-
eration in cutting, a bed may outlast a genera-
tion. There is really no telling how long it
might continue in first-class condition. If ill-
used, however, a plantation, after ten or twelve
years of cutting, is liable to show signs of weak-
ness, when it should be discarded.— (i. T.
l,!)l(>. Cnrled Leaf of Peach. This is a distinct
disease, probably of a fungus character, and
develops usually after a cold spell following a
jieriod of warm weather and rapid growth. The
remedy must be of a preventive nature, consists
in good feeding, especially with potash, annual
pruning or heading back, and thorough cultiva-
tion. Severe attacks of the disease are always a
great injury to the vitality of the tree and
sometimes even prove fatal.
1,1115. Slugs in the Garden. Try heavy appli-
cati<ni of air-shicked lime,orhunt themiscreants
up in the night by lantern light gathering them
in a dish containing a little salt or kerosene.— G.T
l.iKio. Cultivating Young Orchards- The
usual practice is to discontinue cultivation along
in July, in order to avoid late growth that may
not have time to mature and harden sulficiently
to endure the winter's cold. This cpiestion, how-
ever, depends somewhat on the season itself.
Thcfr is such a thing as young wood ripening
too early. So if the season has lieen ver.v dry,
and the growth rather slow, it maybe well to
continue cultivation into August, especially with
Peaches.— G. T.
l,nio. Grafting Herbaceous Growths. Cauli-
flower, Cabbage, Tomato, Potato, and similar
plants can be grafted upon plants of the same
genus unite successfully, if the operation is per-
formed with care and skill. The American Agri-
culturist tells of the common Cucumber grafted
on the wild vines of the same family. "Cucum-
bers may be grown on a high trellis," says our
contemporary, " or around the upper story
windows of any building by training one of the
wild Cucumber vines— either Sicyos angulattis,
the single-seeded or Star Cucumber vine, or the
LV/M»n<'//.str.s, or wiUl Balsam .\pple— either of
which grows .50 or W) feet in a single season up to
the desired height. This is done by sowing Cu-
cumber seed of any of the garden varieties in
a flower pot, and when the plant is six or eight
inches high joining it to one of these wild vines
when it has reached the desired height. Merel.v
scraping the bark of each, and tying theiu firmly
together with any soft material is sufficient.
They will unite in about ten or twelve days,
or sooner, and produce fruits at a height to
which the garden could never attain." The
same journal also states that this knowledge of
grafting annuals may be utilized and made pro-
litable, cspeciully when the Potato is forced to
ripi'ii seed b.\- <'ngrafting or inarching on the
Tomato, but our own experience in grafting the
Potato on Tomat<) stock for the same purpose is
not ver.v encouraging. With all the pains and
precautions we could not produce a healty union
between stock and graft, and in order to keep
the latter i Potato ) alive, we had to keep it
banked up with earth above the union. The
Potato graft then attempted to set tubers at its
lower end, at the junction, but failed to mature
its seed balls. Altogether we think that herba-
ceons grafting, except in moist atmosphere and
under glass, is quite a delicate ojieration — G. T.
1,907. Soaking Seed before Planting. This
was formerly much practised and recommended
by writers, especially for Unions, Carrots and all
seeds of root crops. We know better now. If
the ground is the least bit moist, well-prepared
and freshly stirred, and the seed well firmed,
soaking the seed of common garden vegetables
before planting is usually unnecessary inconve-
nient, and often even hurtful proceeding. We
do not practice it any more, nor recommend it.
Condition of Fruit Crops.
On pages 2'Z'i and 32t) this issue, is to be
found our annual report on the condition
of triiit crops as it appears at this date, .June
•20th. We again express onr thanks to our
kind corre.spondents who have so promptly
replied to our inquiries. A computation
shows the average yield of each kind of fruit
for the whole country to be about as fol-
lows, 3 denoting an average crop:
.\pples, early l.ii Plums 1.6
Apples, late 1.0 Quinces l.B
cherries 20 Raspberries . 3.5
friapes 34 Blackberries 4.0
Peaches 10 Strawberries 3.2
Pears, early 1.4 Currants 3tt
Pears.late 1.4 Gooseberries 27
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
Ill
The Yellow-Striped Cucumber
Beetle.
The tendency of this troublesome enemy
to Cucumber, Melon, Squash and Pumpkin
vines, to get down to hard work as soon as it
makes its appearance, and to meet the tender
little plants half way, often before they are
really out of the ground, is one of the most
annoying obstacles to success in that partic-
ular line, which the gardener has to face.
Whole plantations, often of acres in extent,
showing thrift and promising well one day,
are sometimes almost ruined the next.
The adult stage, however, is not the only
one in which this Insect does mischief. Our
illnstration shows the larval stage, in which
it is also injurious to members of the same
class of plants.
It hatches from the egg laid by the female
beetle on the stem of the plant near the
ground, and at once digs into the stem, and
begins its existence of gnawing. When full-
grown, it is about four-tenths of an inch
long, slender, but little thicker than an (or-
dinary pin, of a whitish color, with a sm.iU,
brownish head, and the end of the body
suddenly truncated. There are two or three
broods during tlie year.
The destructive work of the larva is
usually done when we least suspect it. Sud-
denly a vine, apparently in perfect health
and thrift, begins to wilt and dies, and the
larva may be found in or near the stem, the
surlace of which is rough and corrugated,
showing the fatal bite of the insect.
The surest way of protecting plants while
young against the adult beetle, is by me-
chanical barriers, such as boxes, netting, etc. ;
but it is much more difficult to guard them
against the attacks of the larva at a later
stage. Possibly the remedy found etfica-
cious against the Cabbage maggot— namely,
soaking the roots with lime water, made by
slackinga peck of lime in 'id gallons of water,
or weak liquid manure, maybe found useful
against the insects infesting the roots of
Cucubitacefe also, and deserves a cautious
but thorough trial.
Raising Coleuses from Seeds.
The last spring, 1 planted a package of
mi.\ed hybrid Coleus seeds in a warm seed
bed, and succeeded in getting a growth
from almost every seed, I imagine, and then
such a brilliant variety of colors, and such
a divergence from all that I had ever before
seen of the Coleus family.
I matured two hundred and fifty plants,
about two hundred of which, however, are
discarded as not being sufficiently distinct
to deserve survival.
But the fifty were, and are jewels, for I
have them yet, and propose to keep them as
long as possible. We wintered most of
them in our sitting-room window, where
they were things of beauty, as well as of
utility. An even temperature is what they
must have to thrive in, a room heated by
hard coal securing that to perfection. But
a less high temperature will serve their pur-
pose, and at the same time be healthier for
the human occupants of the room.
I sowed the seed in a five inch pot, in
sifted soil of loam and sand, with deep
drainage ; and to secure indemnity against
damping off when the time for feeding the
plants should arrive, 1 resorted to the origi-
nal .scheme of inserting a shallow tube in
the centre of the pot, into which to pour the
moisture. It worked like a charm. Certain
it is, I lost no plants that showed themselves
above the surface of the soil. I placed the
pot on bottom heat in a snuill greenhouse
which I have the satisfaction of possessing,
covered it with a pane of glass, and in due
time the young brilliants appeared.
My success with them after they came up,
which is indeed the critical time with seed-
lings, is due mainly to the irrigating scheme
above mentioned. By means of it, I kept
the roots of the plants moist without endan-
gering the stalks, and that brought them
safely through until they were big enough
to care for themselves, so to speak.
Among the survived fittest, is one that is
the especial admiration of all beholders, be-
cause it is altogether unique ; colors staid,
though manifold ; leaves fringed or rutfied,
and large ; in the summer dark: in the win-
ter like leaves of autumn. It is "beautiful
as a buttertly," anyhow, and its exclnsive-
ness does not detract from its beauty.
By all means try raising seedlings. It is a
pastime full of surprise, and comparatively
free from failures, especially if you adopt
my plan, on which, I will condescendingly
add, there is noembargo. — V. M. in Garden-
ing Illu.strated.
Received at This Office.
MISCELLANEOUS.
Bulletin of the Massachusetts State Agricultural
Experiment Station for Mav. Analyses of Commercial
Fertlllzcr-s; O .\.OiiessnKinu. lilrector, Amlicrst. .Mjiss. 4.
Special Knlletln ..f the Bureau. .f Animal liclu-trv,
U. S. Department of .iKricuIlure. Proceedings i.f tlie
Interstate Convention of Cattlemen. 1U2.
Report of the Statistician Xo. ?3, Department of
Agriculture. On the Condition of Winter Uraln : Prvi
gress of Cotton Planting, and Wages of Farm Lalxjr. 52.
Repiirts from the Cimsuls of the United StaU'S for
March ls',jo, issued hy the Bureau of Statistics, Depart-
ment State. Washington. l!r.i.
Extract from the Journal of Mycology, issued by the
Section of Vegetable Pathology ; on the Treatment of
Plant Di.seases. 'M.
Experiment Station Record. Vol. 1, No. 3, issued by
the office nf Exiicriment Stat Inns. U. S. Department of
Agriculture; W . tt. Atwaler. Ijirector. 58.
Insect Life, Vol. II. No. Ill, Issued by the Division of
Entomology, U. S. Department of Agriculture. 4S.
Bulletin II. of the Missouri Agricultural Experiment
Station, on Texas fever; Edward D. Potter, Director.
Columbia. Mo. 6U.
Bulletin Vol. III., No. 3, of the Ohio Agricultural Ex-
periment station, on Experiments with Com and Oats;
Charles E. Thome, Director. Columbus, O. 52.
Pr<_K'eediugs of the Thlrty-flfth Annual Meeting of
the Western New Yorlt Horticultural Society ; Chas. A.
Green. Sec'y, R<>chester, N. V. 188.
Bulletin 7 of the Central Experimental Farm. Depart-
ment ot .\gricuiture. Canada, on Two-rowed Barley ;
Wm. Saunders, Director. Ottawa, Can. 14.
Eleventh Annual Report of the Secretary of State of
Michigan, Lansing; Relating to Farms ana Farm Pro-
ducts, i;-*.
Bulletin y of the Iowa Agricultural Experiment
Station, on Comparative Value of F<jdder Plants ; Milk
Tests ; Creameries, and the Plum Curcuiio and Plum
gauger ; R. P. Speer, l>lrector, Ames, iiova. 4S.
Report* of the Officers of the Experimental Farms
of Ontario, Can.; Wm. Saunders, Director Ottawa. 1^.
New York Market Quotations,
Showing Tendencies.
Week ending Week ending
June 21. June 7
Apples— N. Spy, West'n per bbl 6 00® 7 i«l 6@ 7 00
Russet. Western, per bbl 5 0 ® 6 00 5® 6 OO
Strawberrles-Up-rlver, per qt. 7@ 12
Jersey, per quart 4<» 15 8® 12
Raspberrles.Red— Md.&Del.p.qt 8<g> 12
Huckleberries— .N. C, per gt. . . . 15® 16
Blackberries— Small, per qt lIKai 12
Cherries— Large, sweet per lb.. 12® 15 150 20
Sour, per lb B® 10 S® 12
G<x>seberrles— Green, per bush. ® 2 75
Watermelons-Per lU) 18 00*27 OO
Apples— Evaporated, 1889 8-^ U 8® 12
Evaporated, 1888 7® SU mihi
N.C., sliced 5® 6i| 5® BJu
Ohio & Michigan, qrs. bbU. . 4«@ 5)^ Hi® 5V.
Chopped, 18*1, per lb 4® 4® 4)4
Cores and Skins, iss), per lb. tJi® l^ \%® 2
Peaches— Del. eVp't'd. peeledSS 14® 22 11® 22
Del., evap't'd, unpeeled 88. . 8® 10 8® lu
N. C. sundrled, peeled 89 .. 8® 12!^ S® 11
Southern, unpeeled 2^® n 2® 3
Raspberries— Evap't'd 1889 28® StI 2*3 :«l
Sundrled 1889 26® 2< 26® 2s
Cherrles-lS89, per lb 8® 12 8® 12
Huckleberries— 1839, per lb 8® lu 8® 111
Blackberries— 1S89, per lb 3)4® il4 3H®4><.
Plums— State. 1889, per lb 5)*® 6 5)^ 11
Southern Damson, 18S9,n. lb. 5® 5)i 5® 5^
Potatoes-Southern, per bbl... 2 25® 3 00 a00@2 75
Southern seconds, per bbl. . 1 00® 1 25 1 00®1 25
State, per bbl 75®I .in
Beets-L. I ., per II (I bunch 2 00®3 00
Southern, per liw bunch 1 00®1 .5ii
Onions— Egpytian p. 112 Ib.case. 200@25<l ®2 25
Bermuda, per crate 200®250 ®2l«i
New Orleans, per bbl 200@4UO 2001^300
S<|uash—Floriila Marrow, p. bbl. ill! 1 25®1 50
Croi-kneck. per crate 25® 50
Tomaroey— .Miss. per l-^ bu.case. 2 0il®2 25
Sav. and Chart, per crate. . 1 75^2 25
Florida, per Ijush. crate.... 75® I 50 I 50ISI4 im
Bermuda, per box 75(385
Asparagus— per doz. bun 50®1 .50 .5ll®2 OO
Cucumbers— South, p.bu.crate. total uo .'ii>®l 50
Cabbage Norfnlk. per bbl IMCmim I OOtSl 75
Green I'eas- :\i;irvlaiul p.^ bbl. 1 50.<i2 00 1 75® 200
Wax Beans s,,utlicru p. ><; bbl 124wl5ll
Per liushcl .rate 1 0U®2 25
String Beans— Norfolk.p.H bbl, 1 00
Southern, per crate 7S®150
Weak
and Weary
In early summer the wanner weather Is ea-
pcfially weakeuIUK ami enervating, and that tired
feellnK prevails everywhere. The great benefit
which ppupie at this season derive from Hood's
sarrtaparilia proves that this medicine "makes
the Weak strong." It does not act like a stimu-
lant, imparting fictitious strength, but Hood's Sar-
saparllla builds up lu a perfectly natural way all
the wt'akent-d parts, and purlites the blood.
Hood's
Sarsaparilla
Sold by all druggists. $1; six for $5, Prepared only
by C. I. HOOD & CO., Lowell, Mass.
100 Doses One Dollar
PROTECTED INDUSTRY
Mfiih^.— Come in out of tbc snow. You'U get
your death of cold from wet IllI.
<"/../i/'-'i(, —Blot her. our Bhoes can't get wet; you
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Woiff'sAGMEBIacking
on them, and water can't go through.
nil PI nTHQ are eipensWe and wear out, but »
UIL \^LU I no ji^j. ^ijica can be washed clean
.vithout the labor of ecrubbing is such a luxury. We
.vill tell you how an outlay of SI.l>0 will obtain itt
ind still thu floor won't look painted. Use
IK-EION
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' WfLU f^TffAf^BOR //^SECrSTQft^AMENT/KL. I
LAST A L/F£ r/A4E.
LL DOUBLE Y/EUi (^FLOWEf^S OR FRUIT.
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36 years. 24 greenhouses. 700 acres
THE STORRS & HARRISON CO., Painesville, Ohio.
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POPULAR GARDENING
AND FRUIT GROWING.
■'ACCUSE NOT NATURE, SHE HATH DONE HER PART: D(l THOU BUT THINE." -MuJTOtl.
Vol. V.
T^Xra-TJST, X89 0.
No. 1 1.
The Corn Is standing In golden rows,
The gardens are rich In things Ui eat ;
Melons are ripe, and eaeh man Ituows
Abundance is spreading at his feet.
Luscious and mellow and passing sweet.
The sky above Is stiU most blue.
And the sun glares down the live-long day;
But work all done and labor through.
We well can sleep the night away ;
For breezes rise at set of sun.
To cool the earth and revive the flowers :
As the evening veil above is hung.
We watch the stars from this world of ours.
And smile at the pleasant August hours.
—Ladies' Home Journal.
On to Boston. American florists' meeting
August Iflth to 32d.
The Late Patrick Barry.
In our last number we have already given
the sad intelligence of the death of Mr.
Patrick Barry, which occurred at his beau-
tiful garden home, Mount Hope, an attrac-
tive suburb of Rochester, N. Y., June 23d.
Mr. Barry was born near Belfast, Ireland,
in 1816, and came to New York at the age of
30, taking a position at Prince's Linnaian
nurseries, at Flushing, L. I., where he re-
mained four years. In 1840 he formed a
partnership with Mr. George Ellwanger,
and established the Mount Hope Nurseries
at Rochester, which soon became famous
and grew to extraordinary dimensions. As
High Prices will certainly prevail
both for green and dried fruits.
A German Ivy cover.s a bare,
sunny window of our liome with a
perfect mass of lovely light-green
leaves. Nothing could be finer.— GT.
Pears in Niagara County. About
the only exception to the tree-fruit
crop being almost a failure in the
vicinity of La Salle is Bartlett Pears,
which are nearly a full crop.
This is Good News. According to
a Delaware correspondent Kose-bugs
did not appear in that region in such
large numlXTS as in former years, and
Grape vines so far have in that re-
gion escaped with comparatively lit-
tle injury.
This Year's New Yorlt State Fair
takes place at Syracuse, from Sep-
tember 11 to 18. An unusually in-
teresting e.vhibit is e.\pected in all
departments, among which the dis-
play of horticultural products, in
all lines will be a chief one.
Tjsefol Birds. An English gar-
dener reports that a number of
birds -the titmouse or blackcap,
were industriously feeding on the
larvic of the Celery fly with which
his plants were infested.
The Tomato in the estimation of
the chemists of the Maryland Experi-
ment station, cannot be valued as a
nutritious food. Its value depends
on its capacity to gratify the senses
of sight, taste and smell, to promote
appetite, aid digestion, and in other ways con-
tribute to health and pleasure.
A Tobacco Transplanter. A machine which
it is claimed will plant Tobacco, Cabbage and To-
mato plants " faster than ten men can do it by
hand," is the latest wonder in agricultural labor-
saving devices. It is announced from Louisville,
Ky. We can not answer for the correctness
of the inventor's claims.
Good Grapes cannot be improved by cooking,
fermentation, nor by any other manipulation.
To enjoy them as a dessert fruit is the best use
we can make of them. But when more are pro-
duced than can be utilized in this way, by all
means let the juice be extracted, fieely used,
and put on sale everywhere, while unfermented.
The fresh juice of the Grape makes a palatable
beverage, which even has medicinal properties,
and if freely and cheaply ofi'ered, would greatly
aid the cause of temperance, and be a blessing
to the whole nation.
THE LATE PATRICK RBARY.
pomologist, nurseryman, and author, Mr.
Barry has achieved a world-wide reputation.
Thomas Meehan says of him : " In fruit-cul-
ture especially, Mr. Barry's services stand
pre-eminent. He had long been known as
an effective careful writer in different
periodicals, when in 18.Vi his first great work
"Barry's Fruit Garden" appeared. This
was so popular that another edition was
Issued in 18S.5. His greatest work, however,
is probably the catalogue of the American
Pomological Society, the preparation of
which, as chairman to the committee, has
been chiefly his work. This is the great
guide for American fruit culturists, and has
long been the admiration of the world."
In 1847 Mr. Barry was united in marriage
with Harriet Huestis of Richfield, Otsego
County, N. Y. The union was blessed with
eight children, six sons and two daughters.
His wife, one daughter and three sons sur-
vive him. Of the latter, William C. Barry
is best known to our readers, and among
horticulturists generally, having won
name and fame as a pomologist and nursery-
man.
No better and truer characterization could
be given of Mr. Barry than that contained
in the following extract from the Rochester
Post Express :
" Mr. Barry was a man of exceptionally
strong character. The slightest contact
with him elicited some manifestation of
personal power. He was straightforward
in his methods ; honorable in his purposes ;
and of an integrity that would
not tolerate even the suspicion of
indiscretion. In private affairs
and in public affairs he was a
stern, aggressive personality
whose influence went always for
what was honest, genuine, and
true ; and in his loss the com-
munity loses not simply an indi-
vidual life but a moral one."
" He was successful In accu-
mulating a large fortune; but he
prospered on the prosperity of
others — on the improvement of
land in aU parts of the country.
He made himself wealthy ; but
he left the world far wealthier
through his labors."
We point to his life and pros-
perity as a shining example of the
success, financial and otherwise,
to be achieved through integrity
above even the suspicion of in-
discretion. Scorning every form
of trickery in the trade as in pri-
vate life, he was everywhere re-
garded as the type of the reliable
nurseryman. Mr. Barry held
many positions of trust in the
business world. In Rochester, N.
Y., his home, he was identified
with nearly every leading project
for the advancement of the city's
interests. For more than thirty
years Mr. Barry has been presi-
dent of the Western New York
Horticultural Society. No man
was more highly esteemed. Great
personal power, commanding
form and bearing, quick wit,
cool and correct judgment, and a certain
amount of conservatism, which only ren-
dered his leadership all the more safe, were
his to a remarkable degree, and made him
a presiding officer of horticultural meetings
the better of whom we have never seen.
The Western New York Horticultural
Society is largely indebted to him for its
prominent position among sister societies.
Hints on Camellia Culture.
For greenhouse decoration no plant that
will flower in an equally low temperature
can at all compare in desirable qualities
with the Camellia. In every respect, with
the single exception of scent, it is the equal
of the Rose, while in its ability to thrive in
a low temperature, in the beauty of the
plant with its heavy, dark, glossy foliage,
in its freedom from insects, and in the dvira-
22o
POPULAR GARDENING.
August,
ANNA FOREST.
ARNOLD'S PRIDE.
bility of the bloom, It excels even the Queen
of Flowers.
The Camellia is so hardy that it will live
In the open air in many parts of the South-
em States and in England. In cultivation
under glass, it will in a dormant state live
and thrive in any temperature above the
freezing point, and will take little or no
hurt it suljjected to three or four degrees of
frost. The plants will bloom freely in a
temperature of 40°, though 4.5° suits them
better.
As a rule healthy Camellias produce
enough tliritty young shoots every year to
require no cutting back. If, however, there
be a lack of 'these, or it is desirable to im-
prove the form of the plant, there need be
no hesitation about cutting it back, for few
plants will bear the knife better than the
Camellia. The moment, or even l^efore the
late blooms fade, is the time for pruning.
Few young leaves or shoots are more
tender and easily burned by the sun
than those the Camelial; scorching not
only disfigures the foliage, but also hinders
the formation of fine growth and the de-
velopment of flower buds. It is of the
utmost importance, therefore, that during
the growth of the tender leaves and young
shoots in their first stages, the plants should
be shaded from direct sunshine.
During the season of growth the atmos-
phere should be kept moist by the surface
sprinkling of the greenhouse walks, stages
and walls, and the plants themselves should
be lightly syringed at least twice a day. If
the drainage of the plants is good it is hardly
possible to overwater them during this
period of wood-making. The atmosphere
may range from 50° to (a° during most of
this time.
As the flower buds appear in sight, indi-
cating that the new wood is hardening, the
temperature may be allowed to become
lower again, say in the forties at night. The
plants now can hardly have too free a cir-
culation of air about them. A close and
arid atmosphere is one of the causes of that
greatest trouble with inexperienced Camel-
lia growers, namely, dropping of the flower
buds.
Another frequent cause of buds dropping
arises from either too little or too much
water at the roots during the bud period in
summer. Seeing so many buds expanding
the grower too often rushes to the conclu-
sion that a good deal of water must be used
to fill them to bursting. On the other hand
a Camellia may suffer tortures from dryness
at the root, suflBcient to cause every bud to
drop— not immediately but before bloom—
and yet not show it by the leaves shriveling
as they would in a Rose or Geranium.
Camellia leaves never wilt, hence thus
never indicate suffering from dryness.
It is wise to attend the thinning of the
buds when they have developed to a moder-
ate size, for many varieties — notably that
most useful of all varieties the Double White
—will often set out and swell five or ten
times more buds than it ought to be allowed
to carry. Nothing is gained, but a good
deal is lost by allowing so many flower I>uds
to be formed or partially developed. In
thinning the buds it is important to allow
some buds of all sizes to remain for the pur-
pose of extending the flowering over the
longest time possible.
The best place for Camellias during the
summer is in a greenhouse rendered cool by
obscuring the glass with some kind of white
shade, giving a free circulation of air and
wetting down the floors benches and wa lis
a number of times daily.
Some difference ot opinion exists as to the
best time of repotting Camellias. In the
writer's opinion this is just before the plants
start into fresh growth. Under rather than
over potting suits the plants best. Perfect
drainage is one of the essentials. As to soil,
a good loam with some gritty sand and fer-
tilizing matter, either old rotten manure or
crushed bone, suits the plants well. When
good peat is available it is a capital ingredi-
ent to add.
Under good cultivation the Camellia is
one of the cleanest of plants, but should it
ever be allowed to become infested with
bark scab it is diflScult to get rid of it. When
making their young growth mealy bugs and
aphis occasionally visit the young plants.
But the leaves once formed and about half
matured are too hard and leathery for such
insects, while they will bear scale being
rubbed off them with impunity. Really
well grown Camellias a rule, are wholly
free from insect pests, and their clean, dark,
glossy leaves are only of secondary beauty
to their brilliant, exquisitely formed and
many colored flowers.
Notes from the Popular Gardenlngr
Grounds at La Salle-on-the-
Niagara.
The Strawbebhies. A warm and wet winter
which had been qmte hard on some of our var-
ieties, killing every plant in some instances by
heaving where the stand was thin, and badly
damaging and weakening some others, so that
we were deprived of the chance of watching the
perfect development of <iuitc a number of varie-
ties, both old and new, was followed by a spring
with plenty of water, and just right to bring out
BRIGHT IDEA.
ITASCA.
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
229
the t-rtip t>n ix'iniiiiiin^'- plants to best mh antiigo.
Oiir report, owins lo the injury iU>no by the
causers named, may iH>t lio full justice to some
varieties, Init on the whole we found o\ir oliscr-
vutions eonllrmed in a thorough examination of
the lartcer Strawberry Hclds in our immediate
vicinity, embracing in one instance a large test
lot containing forty or more varieties in the best
state of cultivation and preservation. The
growers in our neijrhborhood, we nii>flit add,
must be greatly satislied with the outcome of the
season, for they, still more than iu some former
years, have found "money in Strawberies," as
the crop, on the whole, was a full average one,
if not above, and the prices realized from it
averaged probably close to, if not fully ten cents
jK'r ijiuirt.
The following notes were taken during the
height of the season, and at different Wsits to the
patches before and after. The illustrations on
pages -2f<, ~i9. 230 and 251, representing average
berries and clusters of berries as picked by us,
in exactlytheir natural size.
AbPiNE Bush. The varieties of this character
are interesting on
account of their
crinkled foliage, the
peculiar high flavor
of their small fruits
and their ever-beai'-
ing character, the
fruit being prod-
uced more or less
throughout the sea-
son.
Anna Forest.
Foliage large and
healthy; fruit of
largest size, reason-
ably regular, sweet,
rich, pleasant; rath-
er late, and holding
its size well to end
of season. Plant a
free runner, appar-
eutl.v productive.
Fruit moderately
firm, coloring up
somewhat 1 i ke
Sharpless; altogeth-
er a promising vari-
et.v for this locality.
Arnold's Pride.
Plants large with
strong healthy foli-
age; fruit large to
largest; not of high
quality, hardly
moderately firm.
Early to medium
and productive.
Atlaxtic. Foli-
age detective; fruit
somewhat acid. Only
a moderate bearer.
Belmoxt. Plant
has weak, yellowish
foliage, and does
not promise much for this locality.
BoMBA. Foliage sickly, dwarfish; fruit me-
dium to large, of fair quality and only moder-
ately firm.
Black Defiance. Foliage somewhat spotted;
fruit of dark cohir, glossy, medium to large,
sweet and pleasant. A moderate bearer, early
to medium.
Bright Idea. Only a moderate grower, but
having dark, still foliage; fruit medium to large
in size; moderately firm, of good quality, appar-
ently productive.
Burt. A free runner and fairly productive.
Fruit large, regular, sweet. Whether identical
with Captain Jack or not we cannot say.
Boone (Danieli. In this we have remarkably
fine foliage, with dark color of leaf and strong
growth. It produces runners quite freely, and
gives fruit of largest size, carried way up from
the ground; quite even, moderately firm. Medi-
um to late.
BuBACH. While foliage is all any one could
wish for, both in thrift and health, this variety,
remarkable for the size of its fruit, certainly has
greatly disappointed us in its quantity. Our
plants were nf)t even moderatel.v productive.
Fruit enormously large and showy, sweet, but
not of high quality, and decidedly soft.
("henet (Col. Cheney). Foliage weak and dis-
eased: fruit large, of good qualitj', produced in
moderate quantity. This variety does not now
seem to possess the vigor and \itality we found
in it fifteen years ago.
Cinderella. Foliage dwarfish; fruit medium
size, dark color, rich and pleasant flavor; moder-
ately firm. A moderate bearer.
Cloud. Produces a perfect cloud of plants,
with plenty of foliage and little fruit, and that
<iuite acid.
Cornelia. Plants badly winter killed.
I H vstal City. .\s we have it, it is apparently
a wild berry in fruit and foliage.
Cumberland (Triumph). Take it all in all
this is a handsome variety, of strong vigorous
growth; fine color of foliage, giving large ber-
ries, although not in great quantity, of high
llavoi and quite firm. Especially desirable for
garden culture.
Duchess. Fruit in shape, size and flavor re-
sembles the old Chas. Downing.
Duncan. Has vigorous, dark-colored, healthy
foliage, and jiroduces runners freely. Fruit
large to very large, carried well up on strong
stalks; verj' regular, moderately firm, sweet and
good. Only a moderate bearer.
CLUSTER
TH= HAVERLAND STRAWBERRY AS SKETCHED ON OUR GROUNDS.
Dutter. Our plants appear too near like
Sharpless in fruit and foliage to be easily distin-
guished from it.
Early Canada. A free runner with good
foliage, producing a moderate quantity of firm
berries of fair quality.
Emerald. Foliage spotted. Fruit large, late,
quite irregular and by no means attractive. Nor
productive either.
Eureka. Plants mostly winter-killed. Fruit
large, late, irregular, very Arm, foliage much
inclined to rust.
Gandy. (Gandy's Prize) Not very productive
here. Foliage good; fruit moderately firm,
of good quality, very late.
Great Americ.\n. Leaves slightly inclined to
rust, berry firm, of large size and good quality.
There are some fine specimens, but not many of
them Medium to late. Probably suited only
for good garden culture.
Garibaldi. Not much plant or fruit. Ap-
pears to lack vigor.
Garretsos. Entirely unpromising.
Glendale. Foliage unhealthy, spotted, un-
productive; fruit sour and firm.
Gypsy. This seems to go all to runners. No
fruit, and foliage poor and badly rusted.
Golden Defi.\nce. Good foliage, but a shy
bearer. Fruit large, of rich flavor, firm and very
late. Some of the finest fruit is produced after
most other sorts have done fruiting.
I1.\mi*i>e.n. Foliage terribly poor and diseased,
but sets fruit abundantly, which cannot all be
brought to perfection. Very late.
Haverlani). a berry to grow enthusiastic
over, when one sees the fine fruit that entirely
covers the ground from beginning to the very
end of the season. Originator and introducer
may well be proud of it. It is enormous in
foliage, enormous in number of runners, enor-
mous in quantity of fruit. Fruit large to very
large, somewhat of the soft order, of good but
not high quality. Decidedly a berry for the
home grower and near market. Probably not
suited to long distance shipment. Color rather
light As a bearer nothing else on our grounds
equals it. It gives large fruit to the end of
season. Altogether worth planting.
Indiana. Medium to late in season; not very
productive. Foliage large and strong; fruit of
medium size, and high fiavor; sweet; holding out
well to end of season.
Itasca. Foliage fair; slightly inclined to rust.
A free runner forming wide matted rows. Fruit
sweet and of good flavor, but very irregular^
with many ill-form-
ed, ridged and fur-
rowed specimens.
Some fine fruit was
found on it to the
end of the season,
but foliage seemed
to be giving out.
IVANHOE. Fruit
large throughout,
firm, of fair not high
quality; foliage
large and healthy.
Productive and
promising.
Jersey Queen.
Little foliage. A
dwarf grower and
shy bearer. Fruit
late and large.
Jessie. Foliage
showing signs of
rust; produces run-
ners freely. Fruit
pleasant and sweet,
but not of high qual-
ity: large, somewhat
inclined to irregu-
larity; many speci-
mens singularly fur-
rowed or crinkled,
in some cases to the
extent of absolute
ugliness. Quite firm,
and single berries
very large. The
fruit comes large to
end of season. Sea-
son medium. It
would not rank
among the first for
market here.
Jewell. Its great,
est fault with us is
that it produces
hardly any runners. Foliage rather
poor, but fruit abundant; large to very large,
quite firm and of good quality.
JucuNDA. Plants considerably winter-killed.
Berry large, late, sweet and rich.
Livingston. Foliage dwarfish and inclined to
spot; berry long and soft, much sun-scalded;
medium in size.
Logan. Foliage disappoints us greatly this
season, as it was remarkabl.v thrifty a year ago.
Plant prolific; fruit medium to large: inclined
to irregularity; resembling Jessie in this respect;
flavor second rate.
Lady Rusk. Another season's trial will be
needed to pass Judgment u pon this.
Long John. We have been more comfortably
impressed with this berry than ever. Its dark-
colored, robust foliage seems to be disease proof,
and in this respect it is hardly equalled by any-
other variety we know of. Whenever we have
seen it under good cultivation, it equals Haver-
land in quantity of fruit, and in the desirable
feature of giving good sized fruit to the end of
the season. The berr.v is not as good a long dis-
tance shipper as Wilson. Of darker color, glossy,
somewhat elongated and quife regular, with the
exception that the first berry on each fruit stalk
grows double, which is an undesirable charac-
teristic of the variety. It is a pity that this var-
iety was not given a more euphonious name, and
introduced years ago with the ;same push that
232
POPULAR GARDENING.
August,
has Riven many other less deserving varieties a
short period of popularity.
LONOFELLOw. This needs further trial on our
grounds.
Lower. A rank grower and moderate bearer;
berries medium to very large; moderately flrra;
holding their size well to end of season. Foliage
inclined to rust.
Monarch of the West. Badly winter-killed.
Monmouth. Perhaps the dwarfest grower in
the lot, but setting fruit freely. Berry, medium
in size, and comes early.
Mav Kino. We could not recognize in this
the same variety we have seen in New Jersey,
where the fruit is early and borne well up among
the foliage. A dwarf grower; fruit soft, of
medium size. Productive.
Manchester. Foliage not extra thrifty, but
holds out well. Fruit medium sized; soft to very
soft. Productive, but probably not wanted for
market here.
New Dominion. Mod-
erately productive; me-
dium to late in season;
rather soft and sour;
plants rather dwarf; not
of much promise.
NiCANOR. Foliage
dwarfish and badly spot-
ted;_fruit small, firm, of
high quality, but not
much of it in (luantity.
Parry. A shy bearer,
of soft light colored fruit.
Not of great promise for
this locality.
Pearl. Badly winter-
killed. Fruit somewhat
soft.
Pineapple. A strong
plant, but a shy bearer.
Fruit of good (luality.
Piper. This has the
flavor and appearance
and growth of an en-
larged wild berry, but is
a shy bearer. People who
are longing for the old
wild Strawberry may
have it in the Piper.
Phelps (Old Ironclad).
Foliage rusty ; not much
fruit; early.
Summit. Badly winter-
killed.
Seneca Queen. Badly
winter-killed.
Triumph de Gand.
Plants badly winter-
killed, and not giving a
fair show.
ViCK. Foliage healthy;
fruit firm as an Apple :
otherwise the less said
about it the better for it.
Warfield (No. 3.)
A wonderfully strong
grower, and free pro-
ducer of plants. Enor-
mously productive; fruit
medium to large in
size, holding out well to end of season. Seems
to exceed Wilson in firmness. Quality approach-
ing Wilson, leas seedy, of rich dark color. Hard-
ly a blemish found on the specimens, regular in
size and shape. This seems to be our most
promising berry for long distance shipment.
Woodruff. A shy producer of irregular
berries. Not promising.
Windsor (Chief). Has remarkably healthy
foliage, and produces runners freely. Fruit
fairly abundant, of medium size, fair quality,
inclined to tart.
Wilson. This, though last, is by no means the
least in the list, and if we leave the decision with
the cook we are apt to hear the reply, " give us
the Wilson." The fact is that this variety is yet
one of the most reliable for market, and perhaps
the most popular, without exception, with buy-
ers. The growers in this vicinity plant Wilson
almost exclusively, and whether the introduction
of more recent varieties will work a revolution
in this respect, remains yet to be seen. The
Wilson when in its prime and well-grown is a
firm, well-colored, well-shaped berry, but it has
serious objections, foremost among them, the
inclination to run out after the first picking. It
sets more fruit in proportion to its foliage
than any other variety we know of, but only a
small part of this reaches a respectable size. It
soon dwindles down both in fruit and foliage.
The latter here is usually inclined to rust, and
gives out early. The berry is decidedly seedy,
and has a characteristic tartness of its own.
COMMENTS BY READERS
A flrpartuu'nt to which all are invited to seyttl notes
of experience and observation concerning topics that
recently have been treated on in this Journal, many
such contributions monthly are welcome.
Fruit Prospects in Illinois. Our Grape
crop shows up very favorably. Moore's Dia-
mond has stood unprotected, yet wintered well,
even on wet soil. It is my best grower, and a
profuse bearer. The fruit last year kept six
weeks in nice condition on ray tables in office.
I have 500 bearing vines of Diamond, and wish
my 30,000 bearing vines were all "Diamonds."
Cherry crop is immense. We are picking now
Early Richmonds. I have 3,000 trees of them in
CLUSTER OF BUB*CH (No. 5) STRAWBERRY AS SKETCHED ON OUR GROUNDS.
bearing. Kieffer Pear and Meech Quince well
set. Apples small crop. Industry Gooseberry,
Lucretia Dewberry and all sorts ftf Currants are
bearing immensely. Strawberries only % crop.
I have over 10,000 Roses now in full bloom, and
.lust as many Peonies.— />r. H Schroedcr,McLean
('(>. Tllirw'ti.
The Fruit Report. The Apple, Pear, Peach,
Plum and Cherry crops prove to be an entire
failure this year. We had a full crop of Straw-
berries. Hlackberries, and Grapes also full crop.
Currants and Gooseberries only one quarter
crop. I have lately traveled 40 miles from here,
and never saw a Pestchor Apple.— J.Luther B(nv-
ers, Fairfax Co., Va .
Planting Evergreens in August. Mr.
Hoopes, good authority, is more firmly convinced
than ever that for transplanting Evergreens
August is really the better season than spring.
We should hear in mind, however, he says, that
removal during the heat of summer is conducive
to rapid evaporation, and caution must be ob-
served to provide an abundance of moisture,
not only over the roots, but over the entire top.
For this reason choose a dull, cloudy day for the
work, and if a light, drizzling rain be falling all
the better. A great point gained in summer
transplanting is the formation of new roots in I
the fresh soil, thus enabling the tree to endure
the winter. The Piue family, as a rule, are
among the most diflScult subjects to transplant
properly and the next, perhaps is the Fir. This is
owing mainly to the character of the roots,
which in the former at least generally have few
fibres. On the other hand, the Arbor-vitje and
Yew are removed quite readily on account of
the numerous small roots.
No Peaches in Delaware. The Peach crop
was destroyed by the frosts of March and April.
The same frosts destroyed nearly all the Apples
and Pears. So far as I have seen there are few
Cherries. While the Strawberry crop was less than
an average, it has been more profitable than
some years when there was a much larger crop.
The Rose beetle has been destructive to Grapes
for three years past, in some parts of this penin-
sula, by eating the blossoms or very young fruit.
No effective remedy has yet been found. But
black rot has destroyed the Grapes where the
Rose beetle has not. The Bordeaux mixture has
proved only a partial and
very unsatisfactory rem-
edy. It sticks to the fruit,
making it unsalable but
can be removed by water
acidulated with vinegar.
The Peach yellows is
making some progress,
and growei-s are not yet
fully alive to the neces-
sity of digging out the
trees as soon as they are
affected. This seems the
only way to prevent it
from spreading. There
is as yet no cure known
here, and no preventive,
except it be digging out
the diseased trees. Pear
leaf-blight has been more
injurious of late years
than Pear blight. Last
year it defoliated many
orchards and prevented
the proper maturing of
the wood. The Bordeaux
mixture is a satisfactory
remedy.— Wesley Webh,
Kent Co., Del.
Condition of Frdit
Crop in Mo. Apples
around here a half crop.
Pears not ten per cent,
of a crop. Peaches very
few and they 'are drop-
ping prematurely. Rasp-
berries, a full crop.
Blackberries also extra
fine. Plums none except
the Golden Beauty which
has a fair crop on sound
trees. Should the weather
continue ten days longer
a.s (ivy and hot as it has
been the last two weeks
(and it looks gloomy) the
Strawberrybcds will bum
up, and the Apples will
dry on the trees. A hard
.season on the fruit growers around here —
.S. Miller, Mimtgnmery Co., Mn.
Amaryllis Johnsonii. The small bulb which
grows with each blossom stalk will bloom the
second or third year after removal. If desired
for summer blooming, put in autumn in a light
cellar until spring, then bring it up to light>ind
heat, and water profusely. The best soil for
summer blooming is rich loam and peat, or
swamp-muck— they revel in this. .Still ani>ther
way is to keep them growing all summer; they
are left in the pots and set on the ground in a
somewhat shady place ; repot once in five years,
but each spring and fall dig out some of the
earth and put in fresh soil; black velvety, swamp
muck is the best if you can get it. For this
method of treatment from four to five or six
bulbs can be planted in one large pot, and each
plant will give about four blossoms each sea-
son.—Horterwe Share.
Managing the Cucumber Beetle. "Pickle
Eater" says he will plant away out in the fields
where the beetles will not find the plants. The
best way is to plant near the house, and watch
the vines closely. Last season I raised 13.') dozen
large pickles on a plot 3() feet scpiare, which had
been planted in Cucumbers for the last 30 years.
The beetles were plenty. I put a pint of kerosene
into a vessel and stirred about three tablespoon-
i
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
231
fuls of Pine tar into the kerosene until part ot it
dissolved. Little pieces of old woolen rag carpet
were dipped into the kerosene and laid on the
ground among the plants, but not to touch them.
The balance of the tar that did not dissolve I put
in little bits on small flat stones placing them at
the corners and middle of the patch. This drove
and kept the beetles away. When the plants
need boeing pick up the rags, and put them into
a fresh mi.vture of tar and kerosene, then weed
and hoe the patch clean and place the rags back
again. Three applications this last seasos proved
sufficient.— 3ii.<.<i M. McLean, Pa.
Le Co.nte Pear Again. It is for this region
that I advise planters to avoid it. Six years ago
I set eleven trees (budded on French Pear stock)
and purchased at §10 (lO the dozen. At flrst they
grew beautifully and strong so that I had already
counted on the nice Pears that would be gathered
from them. I also set grafts of them on Garber
and Bartlett trees so as to get fruit soon. The
grafts bore fruit, but with the most skillful
management I could not get them to be good.
They would soften at the core while hard and
immature outside. Then blight set in, and one
graft after another withered, and had to be cut
off. I also blame it for causing a blighted limb
on my pet Garber tree, the only instance of the
kind on this variety. Of the eleven trees
grafted afterwards with Idaho, four have gone
down, and some of the others are going. The
knife is used as fast as blight makes its appear-
ance, and it is possible that thej' will all go.
This is doubly discouraging, as the trees as well
as the grafts that were valuable at the time set,
are all as good as lost. It was well that I grafted
Idaho on other trees which are now fresh and
sound so that we may soon see the fruit. I dare
not even set buds or grafts from these LeConte
trees as there may be blood poisoning in them.
While the trunk and limbs of the LeConte got
black and dying, the Idaho grafts on top kept
fresh and green until the sap was dried out of
the tree. The claim that when grown on their
own roots they wiil not blight, will not do, for a
friend of mind planted a lot of such from head-
JESSIE.
quarters, that have blighted the worst kind.
Out of about twenty, I don't think one remains
now. I was in hopes that it would be a good
stock to work other varieties on, and suggested
to some men in the .south to grow it extensively
from cuttings as they can do it down there, but
now I would not recommend it even for that
purpose. Here I have failed to grow it from
cuttings although I tried it repeatedly. Even in
the south it may be planted too extensively for
shipping north, as I have from a commission
house in St. Louis a report that they get soft
inside at times before ripe, and are then worth-
less. What the nurserymen will do with the
thousands of LeConte Pear trees on hand, is
none of my business, but I would not take them
to plant if offered to me free. The time may
not be far when some men will thank me for
this timely caution. If the tree did not blight, it
would be worth growing for its beauty, even if it
did not bear fruit at all. The Garber Pear is an
established affair, and is in my opinion among
the most valuable for general purposes. The
Idaho, I think, is the coming Pear, if it succeeds
in a wide range. It is of large size, tieautiful in
appearance while the quality is of the highest
order. Scarcely any core orseeds.— ^. JiiUer.
Birds Injuring Grapes,
Birds sometimes injure Grapes quite
seriously. There can be no (ioitbt about it;
and in their defense we have always claimed
that they are entitled to a great deal of in-
dulgence on account of the good they do in
destroying noxious insects. Bnt the ques-
tion is by no means settled in how far the
various species of birds are responsible for
damage done to Grapes.
Prof. Lantz of the Kansas Experiment
Station has recently made efforts to get at
the truth of this matter. Having always
been a most ardent advocate of bird protec-
tion, he says, "I have been especially anxious
to discover whether this injury to the Grapes
LOWER.
can be traced to any particular species o
birds, or whether many species puncttire
them. I have sought this information from
many Grape growers, but the testimony re-
ceived has been of such a contradictory
character, mingled with so much of conjec-
ture by the observers, that it has been en-
tirely insutficient to establish the guilt of a
single species of birds. When I have asked
whether the persons actually saw a bird
puncture the Grapes, they have usually ad-
mitted that the blame was attached to the
species because it was seen in the vineyard,
but that they themselves did not see the
damage inflicted.
" Some are positive that the oriole does the
mischief: others think that it is the English
sparrow: and thtis through the list of our
most common birds; while not a few insist
that the injury is due to the stinging of bees
and wasps, and not to the birds at all. These
last would not be very trustworthy observers
to establish the identity of the real marauder.
"There can be no possible question but that
the injury is done by birds. It may be done
by many, a few, or even by a single kind of
birds. If but one or two species are re-
sponsible for the damage, it would be of ad-
vantage to know it; especially if, as some
suspect, the English sparrow is the principal
thief. There is some color to the claim that
this species is mainly responsible for the
damage, from the fact that the injurj' is
greatest near oiu- cities and villages. My
own observations seem to show that the
injtiry is mostly done very early in the morn-
ing. The birds puncture the Grapes to
obtain the cool juices lying under the skin,
and they are excellent judges of the flavor
of the different varieties and of the ripeness
of any kind. It is my purpose to gather
MONMOUTH.
232
POPULAR GARDENING.
August," j
some data on the subject of the injury to
small fruits by birds. I doubt, however,
whether such investigations will change
my present opinion as to the usefulness of a
single species of birds.
Vegetables Almost Unknown in
American Home Gardens.
There are a number of vegetables very
popular in Europe, and there found In
almost every garden, yet of which the
average American home-gardener knows
nothing, perhaps not even the name. Among
them we have the Globe Artichoke, C'ar-
doon, Fetticus, Celeriac, Chicoi-y, Sea Kale,
Endive, not to .speak of the many aromatic
herbs, like Borage, Coriander, Anise, Dill,
and many others. Globe Artichokes are
started from seed in early spring and
thinned sufficiently to allow room for full
development. The spring following the
plants are set in the permanent bed, three
feet apart each way. They will yield but
little the first season. The plantation with
proper treatment lasts a number of years,
although it would be better to renew it fre-
quently. A covering of coarse litter should
be given for the winter, as the plants are
not entirely hardy. The flower heads are
the edible part. They begin to be produced
in June, and should be gathered before
they open.
Cardoon is easily grown from seed. Sow
thinly in rows three feet apart, and thin to
18 inches apart between the plants. With
ordinary cultivation, writes a Jerseyman to
Garden and Forest, the leaves can be tied
up by the latter part of August, to promote
a perpendicular growth, and then they
should be earthed like Celery. The plants
can be preserved for winter by trenching as
for Celery, and they make fine flavoring for
soups and salads.
Endive is extensively grown by German
cultivators, but is rarely seen in the garden
of amateurs. The seeds may be sown any
time before July l.'Jth, and the plants should
be transplanted into beds about one foot
apart each way. The simplest way of bleach-
ing them is to set boards along the rows
when they are about half grown. The curled
varieties make ornamental garnishing for
various dishes, and the broad-leaved variety
is highly esteemed as a salad.
Celeriac is started from seed, and as soon
as of sufficient size, the plants should be set
in rows eighteen inches apart, with six
inches between the plants. They require
slight earthing up, and by November will
have formed bulbs like a small Turnip,
which is the edible part of the plant. About
this time they should be dug up, and placed
entire in shallow trenches, with but a small
portion of the top appearing above the sur-
face, and over this straw may be laid as cold
weather sets in. The sliced roots make an
admirable salad, and when grated dry, are
useful for flavoring the finest soups.
Plants of Terragon should be secured and
set in a .sheltered situation. The young
leaves are not only useful for flavoring in
cooking, but when placed in vinegar they
make a palatable and appetizing condiment.
The blue flowers of Borage are not only
ornamental, but they are much sought by
bees ifor the abundant nectar they yield,
while the aromatic leaves are particularly
valuable as flavoring for salads, cooling
drinks and light wines. The seeds may be
sown in spring, and transplanted into rows
eighteen inches apart and twelve inches
apart in the row.
Field Notes of a Horticulturist.
L. B, riERCK, SUMMIT CO., O.
The fruit grower, like the farmer, is
largely indebted to the season for his suc-
cess or failure. I am forcibly reminded of
this by the ease with which I have been en-
abled to get a perfect stand of Strawberries
on a block just planted.
The ground was plowed when it crumbled
nicely and in the only interval in this very
wet spring when it could have been done.
It was borrowed very fine, and then planed
down with a home-made contrivance that
answers admirably.
This consists of three logs six inches in
diameter and seven feet in length, strung
upon two % iron rods 41 inches long and
held apart by wooden dowels. The rods
are one foot from either end, and having
hooks in the front end are connected with a
log chain and the double tree is hitched to
this so the machine drags at an angle of
about 30 or 40 degrees. Nuts at the back
end of the rods make all snug.
The ground being Corn stubble, had many
places held up loose by the Corn roots, and
going over it with this simple contrivance
not only levels the surface, put compacts
the soil and makes it of uniform solidity.
We planted with a line containing 13 tags
to the rod and with a brick-mason's trowel.
The young man assisting would take a bas-
ket of plants, drop the length of the line
and plant back until he met me when we
would shift the line and commenced anew.
We averaged a row of 2(X) plants in 10 min-
utes and including little hindrances could
easily put in over .500 per hour.
I read frequently about planting with a
spade, but never took kindly to it as the
most important part of the work that of
Pierce's Clod Ciiisher and Plainer.
properly placing the plants, falls to the lot
of a small boy who oftener than otherwise
gets it either too deep or too shallow.
In the present case the warm open winter
had produced a considerable growth of
tufts of grass, and many magnificent Docks,
and where the sods or Docks came in the
way we dug them out, and replaced with
clean soil. This took a little lime but pre-
vious experience had learned me that it
paid in the after-hoeing. We were particu-
lar to set the line exact and plant close to it
so that we can run a little one horse harrow
close to the plants and kill all the newly
sprouted weed except a line three or four
inches wide.
Just as we got the ground in shape it
commenced to rain and rained every night
and occasionally in the day time. This
would have made a serious state of affairs
had the land been clay, but being a rich
sandy loam in fine condition, it was not
sticky and permitted planting vei-y soon
after a shower.
We watched the weather closely and when
a shower was apparent we fell to and dug
a lot of plants, shook them out and put un-
der shelter to be trimmed when it rained.
Several mornings I got up at daylight
and dug several hundred plants before
breakfast, throwing them into piles* of 100
each to be afterwards gathered up and car-
ried to the green house, where we trimmed
them in a pleasant atmosphere, and out of
the cold raw wind or frosty air. The result
of our rainy day planting is: that of many
thousand scarcely one wilted, and all are
growing as if they have never been moved.
Now these notes are to impress upon be-
ginners three things in Strawberry culture,
1.— the importance of fitting the ground
early and thoroughly y 2.— the value of a
complete stand of plants with no vacancies;
and above all, 3.— the proper trimming of
a plant for setting. Conversing with a friend
recently he remarked, " I don't spend much
time pulling off runners or dead leaves. I
just plant them out just as they are dug."
How many can you plant in an hour where
you to take them from a basket into which
they were thrown, I asked? " Oh! about 7.5
or 80 I guess," he replied. Exactly! and I
can plant 300 in an hour without help, and
the difference is that I have the plant prop-
erly trimmed. Some leaves curl down-
wards and some are dead; these I remove
so that I get by a glance a clean view of the
plant, and know just how deep to set it.
The dead runners does not interfere with
planting but it is strong and rots slowly,
and the chances are that if left on you will
catch hold of it in weeding or hoeing and
pull out the plant after it is nicely started
thus putting it back or killing it outright.
As the plants are trimmed I keep them in
my left hand until I get a fist full when
they are carefully placed in the end of a
basket or box, lying close together as snug
and handy as a box of tooth-picks.
This season I got on to a new tool for dig-
ging Strawberry plants. I had a specimen
bed planted in April 1S89 with a view to
keeping in hills, the plants being set one
foot by two. Toward the close of August it
became apparent that my other plantations
would not furnish enough plants for this
spring, so it was allowed to run. This
spring it was a puzzle how to dig out a foot
wide of plants between each two rows with-
out trampling the others and seriously in-
juring their roots. I had a Potato hook
with four tines % of an inch wide and %
of an inch apart and I tried this and I shall
never use any thing else. Instead of stand-
ing on the plants as is necessary with a fork,
I can walk on the dug ground, dig up a
cluster of plants and draw them too me to
be shaken out with scarcely any injury to
the remaining plants or to the ones that
were removed.
What to Do Witli the English
Sparrow.
The English sparrow has very few friends
among fruit growers and farmers, especially
near large cities, where he finds congenial
shelter and multiplies very rapidly. We
are aware of all the objections that can be
urged against him as a city guest, the be-
fouling of buildings, the disagreeable noise,
the destruction'to fruit and garden crops,
etc.; still in our rural home, where we re-
ceive thealmostdaily visits of flocks of these
birds, and where we know them to have
permanent breeding and feeding grounds,
we can notice but little actual damage done
by them. At times, in periods of a week or
two, both in summer and winter, they help
them.selves to some of the feed thrown out
to poultry, or hop around in the back yard
after crumbs of bread, etc. At other times
they seem to find all they want elsewhere.
They ilo not seem to come after their Wheat
ration when May beetles and seventeen-year
locusts abound. They are quite fond of
these insects. On the whole, we are also in-
clined to think that the sparrow has to serve
as scape-goat for many sins committed by
other birds.
However this may be, popular sentiment
is decidedly against the English sparrow.
Seven states have enacted laws for its sup-
pression. Four of the^e states simply except
it from the protection aftorded other birds.
New York makes it a misdemeanor to bar-
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
233
bor or protect it, and Michigan even pays a
bounty of tliree cents for each sparrow's
heml at the town clerk's offices.
Although the bird is doing us no serious
damage, yet we believe that the excessive
number .should be kept do\vn. The bounty
feature, however, involves some risk that
other and useful birds are killed for spar-
rows, and the bounty claimed for them. A
recent bulletin of the Michigan .Agricul-
tural College ExperimentStation names the
following birds as liable to be mistaken for
the Engli.-ih sparrow: Purple (inch, red-
polled linnet, yellow bird, song sparrow,
Bill of Engligh Sparrow and of Catbird
tree sparrow, field sparrow, and chipping
sparrow.
While some birds of other families have
heads somewhat like the Epglish sparrow,
they can always be distinguished from it
by the form of the bill. The members of
the thrush family have larger and more
slender bills, as may be seen at the right of
annexed illustration. A 'sparrow's bill is
shown at the left for comparison.
Xo one should receive sparrows on a
bounty or prize that has not thoroughly
studied the bird, says Prof. C. B. Cook in the
bulletin mentioned. Far too many of the
tovsTi clerks in Michigan do not know the
English sparrow's head from that of a linnet
or thrush. As a result, a great many birds
that have been sent in for a bounty, are
most beneficial birds. Thus many heads
have been sent to this station on which
bounty was claimed, of such valuable birds
as song sparrow, red-polled linnet and
evening grosbeak, birds that Michigan laws
protect by a fine of S.5.00 against their
slaughter. Every person presenting such a
bird to the town clerk's office should pay
that penalty. The law does well to protect
such valuable birds as the song sparrow and
the red poll. To slaughter them, as has
been done the past year, is a serious wrong;
to get pay for so doing Is absurd. Thus far
the Michigan Bulletin.
We have given this extract to show that
putting a premium on killing sparrows has
its dangers, and may result in more harm
than good. Legislatures must take this
feature into consideration.
The Outcome of the Strawberry
Season in Ohio.
E. W. REED. BELMONT CO., OHIO.
The following varieties possess merit, and
people who have planted them this season
are in luck: Warfield Xo. 2, Haverland,
Bubach (Xo. :>), Gaudy's Prize, Pearl, and
Stayman's Xo. 1. The season's record of the
various varieties on my grounds is as follows:
May King. Somewhat like Crescent, and
after the nature of the Cumberland; uni-
form in size, soft, early, but not so product-
ive as Crescent.
Glendale. Size, fair; very Arm; good ship-
per, and good to plant with late pistillate
sorts, as its season is late; quality not of the
best: fairly productive for late. .
Ontario. Size, large; vine healthy, but we
can see no merit worth mentioning over
many others.
Mammoth. Large, but irregular in shape;
not profitable to grow.
Summit. Size, large; very late; productive;
but fruit too large to ship. Our vines this
season are very full of fine fruit.
Belmont. This variety is the most profuse
bloomer we ever had, but will not perfect
its fruit regularly. It is a good sort to plant
with pistillate sorts, as it produces pollen
and heavy bloom.
Jessie. From our experience with .Jessie
we would not recommend any one to plant
it. It produces some fine fruit at first, but
lacks in amount, and runs to buttons after
second picking. Good as a pollen
producer.
Monmouth. Early; size, good;
quality fair; not so productive as
some others, but it has the merit
of being early, firm, and of good
color. Think more of it than of
Jessie.
Crawford. Very large, good
grower, quite firm, and of much
promise.
Eureka. Late; size, medium.
A good grower and free to run.
We expected more from this
variety, but will not condemn
until tested longer. It is all one
wants in growth, but not in fruit.
Florence. Size, medium; growth of vine
and of fruit fair.
Mrs. Cleveland. Size, fair; excellent
grower, with good vines; color light, with
white flesh, but fruit not as good in propor-
tion to growth of plant.
Townsend Xo. 3. Very large, good grower
and very productive. Gives the best promise
of any seedling on our grounds this season.
Ohio Centennial (from Townsend) is also a
good berry. Vine not so robust as that of
Mrs. Cleveland, but superior in fruiting
qualities.
Crimson Cluster. Size, large, and quality
fair; but not recommended for commercial
growers. Soft and light in color; grows
well when kept in hills, and will do for
home use. Fine grower; did better this
year than heretofore.
Bubach Xo. 3. Size, large to very large;
makes a fine growth with good color of leaf.
We have fruited Bubach this season on four
different soils, and it was the same. We
think more of it each year.
Gandy. Large and very late; holds its
fruit well from the ground, and is the best
late berry on the market that we have any
knowledge of, except a seedling received of
John Little of Ontario, Canada.
Pearl. Fruit large, quite firm, of good
color. We think well of it.
Burt. This again did well, and we would
not hesitate to plant for fruiting on deep,
moist soil. Fruit, large, to very large. A
good producer of fine fruit.
Hampden. Poor in vine and fruit; poor
grower; will not shade its own fruit, which
lays on the ground. Xo good.
Haverland. One of the most, if not the
most, productive berry grown ; early; of good
size; very profitable. We can recommend
this to the grower for field culture.
Gold. Late and of little or no value.
Bomba. Early, and first fruit very large.
Color good: size runs smaller at last of
season, and soft. Were it not for this fact
it would be very valuable, as it is a very
heavy fruiter .
Logan. Size, large to very large; color
good. A good grower with fine plant. We
still think as well of it as we did last season.
Lida. Very productive wdth us this season.
Large, but a little of the soft order.
Warfield Xo. 2.We place this with Bubach
in first place, as it is of the very best; size,
large; holding its own better than others
throughout the season, and being very pro-
ductive.
Itasca. Very productive, but do not favor
it for culture, as it runs .small, and some
buttons are noticed after first picking.
Little's Seedling No. <1. Extra large and
productive, ripening in mid-season; good
grower; promises well.
Parry. I.,arge and productive; its season
being quite long, the first to ripen and the
last to pick. We are still of the opinion
it is a good berry for home market, but will
not stand long shipment. Plant not a robust
grower, and fruit resembles Cumberland.
Cloud. Fruit of fair size; vine a good
grower. It holds its burr well, which is a
point in its favor for shipment. Were it as
productive as Crescent or Wilson we would
heartily say, grow Cloud. Pistillate.
Pine Apple. As for a plant it is the best,
but it has next to no fruit.
Jucunda. Not holding its own in past
years.
Carmichael. Fruit this season very fine.
People who have beds are in luck, as the
plants are full and selling at double the
price of other varieties, owing to lateness;
but if not on soil that suits them may not
do so well.
Crescent. Held its own in its class, and
proved to be the best paying berry we can
grow, as it ripens more fruit the first pick-
ing, and continues to pick more fruit than
any other unless it would be the Haverland.
Cumberland. If you have a soil that will
suit it, is the best paying large berry grown,
holding its size through the entire sea.<ion ;
being of a good color. On unsuitable soil,
poor and soft. In quality it is very poor,
but being qiiite large is readily sold at good
rates. It is one of the berries that seem to
grow better each season instead of going the
Fi^i. 5. Plant of Desmodium pendiflorum
mipported by trellKC. See next paye.
other way. Plant it on poor clay soil with
a good covering of compost, and throw your
soil up hill so the manure will not be out of
reach of plant roots. Uo not plant in rich
loam: it wUl only produce top growth.
Sharpless. This berry will do very well
for a few years, but then will run out. We
have stopped trying to fruit it for profit as
it was too uncertain, and easily killed by
frost. Fruit very large, irregular, with
green points, which is against it as a desir-
able berry for market.
Chas. Downing. A good shipper, but un-
certain in some localities. Good seller.
Manchester. Resembles Cumberland in
some respects, but is not so good.
Wilson. We are about the only ones grow-
ing the Wilson in this county. But if there
were more Wilson grown, better returns
would be netted per acre than in many cases.
Vines are as healthy and productive as ever;
it is the best all-around berry for family
use we have in KHl varieties.
Parker Earle. We like its appearance very
much, but do not like to set our opinion on
stock from distant parts before further tests.
Michael's Early. It was the first to ripen
with us. Foliage not quite as good as we
would like, but fruit fair for extra early.
Stayman's X^o. 1. We are highly pleased
with it, both in fruit and vine. Holds its
fruit stems well from ground; has a fine
plant and is a good grower.
Osceola. Seems to have a bright outlook.
234
POPULAR GARDENING.
August,
A Visit to Wm. Falconer, Gardener to
Charles A. Dana.
Among American gardeners no name
stands higher for ability and intelligence,
and none is more widely known than that
of William Falconer, Glen Cove, N. Y. a
gentleman who writes as well as he gardens
and whose articles in this and other periodi-
cals are always eagerly sought and read.
It was with much pleasure that the writer
of this embraced the opportunity to visit
Mr. Falconer on the afternoon of June (ith,
in order that the garden which his pen had
long before acquainted him with, might be
seen, and some account of the same be given
in these columns.
Mr. Falconer is gardener on the island
home of Chas. A. Dana of the New York
Sun. This island is on the north side of
Long Island, 37 miles from New York and
so close to the mainland as to be connected
with the latter by a bridge. It consists of
42 acres, all of which is devoted to the pur-
pose of a complete country home. The
views from the island across the Sound and
along the irregularly defined north shore of
Long Island, in itself decidedly picturesque
in this region, are very fine.
Entering the grounds one is soon impress-
ed by the large number of specimen trees,
shrubs and plants here brought together,
and by their fine appearance. Mr. Falconer
is a master in tasteful arrangements, conse-
quently the individual trees and shrubs in
addition to showing their own fine qualities
are made to contribute to a handsome
general efEect. From the mansion which
occupies an elevated central position a
beautiful wide lawn stretches in a southerly
direction towards the water's edge. Scat-
tered over the lawn but chieflly along its
borders are a large number of specimens,
in this part mainly evergreens, in clumps
and so arranged as to afford numerous vistas
as seen from the residence and from various
parts of the grounds.
That evergreens are a favorite class on
this place is evident, by the large assort-
ment present and their fine appearance.
Here one may see the beautiful Abies con-
color, and Abies Veitchii, the latter some-
what like Alcock's Spruce as to the blue
color on the underside of the leaves, and
not unlike Nordmann's Fir in the intense
dark green of the older foliage. The Japa-
nese Hemlock is an attractive tree pro-
nounced by Mr. Falconer one of the best of
evergreens. Abies
Cephalonica is anoth-
er favorite and very
handsome. Nord-
mann's Fir as beauti-
ful an evergreen as
one could wish to see
is made by the pecu-
liar treatment it here
receives to look some-
what different from
its form as commonly
met. We refer to the
fact that all ever-
pnining Everffrecns.
greens here are pruned in some measure
to keep them within boimds, and for pre-
serving their beauty indefinitely.
The pruning of evergreens as practised here
consists in the main ot simply pinching
back the ends of the leader and main shoots
soon after the new growth starts in the
spring, as shown in Fig. 1 annexed. If by this
course the natural freedom and irregularity
of growth is somewhat overcome, perhaps
not always with advantage to the beauty of
young subjects, on the other hand that
greatest charm of all evergreens : having
the tree densely furnished with branches
and foliage to the groimds is invariably
secured. As an instance of this advantage
we have but to cite the beautiful Balsam
Firs in Mr. Dana's garden as compared with
the wretched specimens, of these, denuded
at the base, which one constantly runs
across where no attention is given to prun-
ning as here practised. The latter style of
tree is illustrated in Fig. 3, while the same
kind as grown on these grounds appears in
Fig. 3. Thus in the Balsam Fir, always one
of the handsomest evergeens when young,
it is possible by pruning to preserve its
beauty indefinitely, while otherwise it
:.'i;*3<^j
Pig. 2.— I7if Balsam Fir Fig. a.— The Balsam Fir
as usually met. as it appears icith pruning.
soon becomes one of the homeliest of ever-
greens. The same lesson will apply in
some degree to the Norway Spruce and
many other conifers.
Among other evergreens of striking
beauty, we noticed Cedrus Atlantica glauca
the most beautiful thing in glaucus-leaved
trees we have seen. Pica polita the most
rigid of all Spruces, Colorada Blue Spruce
always charming, Douglass Fir one of the
hardiest and best evergreens. Abies alata
is a very fine tree, but one in which if the
ends are not pinched out as suggested above,
its branches become grotesquely long, un-
fitting it for the best effects. Pica alba var-
ca?rulea is a form of the White Spruce which
here is matchless for beauty, the form
being conical with the branches bend-
ing gracefully outwards and downwards,
making it a veritable Fountain Evergreen,
A clump of three Douglass Junipers form
a beautiful low mass on the lawn, and by
their golden hue yield a beautiful contrast
with other evergreens in the collection.
Two things which exert a strong influence
on the well-doing not only of evergreens
but of all other trees on the lawns at Glen
Cove, are, first that they are never allowed
to crowd one another, second summer
mulching is freely employed. Mr. Falconer
makes it a rule, that before he permits one
tree to encroach on another one must bectit
away if it is worth a hundred dollars. Was
his excellent rule to be universally applied
to lawn, park and street trees how it would
reduce the tree cripples now so numerous
everywhere. His method of mulching
trees as illustrated in Fig. 4 is a capital one.
It consists in neatly cutting out a circle of
sward four or more feet across, the tree
being at the centre. About two inches of
soil is then removed from within the circle
and a mulch of straw applied to a depth so
that with settling, the surface of the mulch
will be about even with the surrounding
lawn. Thus the mulch hardly shows at all,
while in this liberal width the lawu mower
needs never to approach close to the tree
with the danger of barking it, a most im-
portant advantage.
In deciduous growths the Wistarias trained
as standard here attract attention. These
are trees with trunks about five feet high
supporting a good head of branches, foliage
and in their season flowers. To fortify the
trees against the wind each trunk is assisted
by a stake of small size. The collection ot
Magnolias is an interesting one with parvi-
flora a leading favorite. As an indication
of the fondness of Rosebugs which have
settled down on this island in large numbers
for the sweet flowers of this species, Mr.
Falconer at the time of our visit could in
some instances gather a handful of the
horrid pests from a single flower. The
Cercidiphyllum Japonica thrives admirably
here in the low lands near the water, the
only place where it is thought it would suc-
ceed. Some Hornbeam trees twenty feet
high by twenty feet across were as fine as
we ever have met, a fact in part also to be
attributed to their standing on low land.
The Japanese Larch shows splendid adapt-
ability to this locality forming large vigor-
ous trees.
The Japanese Viburnums (F. pUcatnm)
were in full beauty on the day of our visit,and
it was easy to agree with ovu: former conclu-
sions that in this, we have the handsomest
of all hardy shrubs. The form of growth
is charming, being slightly inclined to irreg-
ularity, the foliage of deepest green is beau-
tifully plaited, and the flowers borne in
great profusion excel every other Vibur-
num in whiteness. Mr. Falconer also speaks
well of a round-leaved variety of this shrub
{^'. })UcatU)n rotunflifdliinn) which he pro-
cured of Miller cS: Seaver of San Francisco,
Cal. It flowers a week earlier than the
species and otherwise possesses its leading
qualities. Here we met some remarkably
fine specimens of Weeping Dogwood. They
were fully ten feet in height and of admir-
able pendant form. They were said by the
grower to bloom even more freely than the
parent form the common Cornus Floridus.
In trees of golden hue Mr. Falconer places
the Golden-leaved Oak {Qucrciin rohur con-
c(iriiin) at the head of all others. Here
grown to a dense conical form, with the
beautifully formed leaves of a delicate wax-
like texture and rich golden hue they are
iudeed charming specimens.
One of the groups on the lawn consists of
various Double-flowering Apples, trained to
form low trees clothed with branches to
^^Cx^r?
I
Fig. i.—lllugtrating Tree mvlching "« tin iaion.
the ground. Their attractivess in the season
of bloom was highly spoken of. Nearby is
the new Pyrus Parkmanii which Mr. Fal-
coner characterizes as the loveliest tree of
its season. A favorite shrub of this order
is the Beach Plum, a native of this part of
Long I-sland. It is a very free blooming
ing shrub, and will bear the most ruthless
cutting back after flowering, only to shoot
up freely again. Eleagnus longipes was
pointed out as one of the most desirable
trees ot its class, a class by the way not
sufficiently appreciatedwith growers. Eleag-
nus hortensis, with its beautiful silvery
white foliage, showed to special fine advan-
tage growing here at the water's edge.
One of the attractions at the time of our
visit was a large mass of Wild Roses, includ-
ing the Blackben-y Rose (rtosti multifUirn)
and Rosa rugosa, both in color and white.
To mass the plants is the right way to use this
class. The Japan Dogwood (Coiiius Japon-
iSgo.
POPULAR GARDENING.
235
ica) is a most desirable small tree, which
blossoms four weeks later than the large
dowering Americiin species. Quite simi-
larly the Chinese Tiimarix was pointed out
as an Asiatic species which blossoms
in August and September, as against the
ordinary species flowering in the spring.
0£ the numerous light-colored variegated
shrubs grown here, Mr. Falconer pro-
nounces Cornus alba var. Spathi the best.
The collections of Azaleas and Rhododen-
drons here are large, but lack of time pre-
vented our noting them closely. [
In the line of hardy herbaceous perennials
Mr. Falconer is an enthusiast, and we much
regret that the limited time at our disposal
did not permit of our e.xamining the entire
collection more closely. The Poppies in
bloom were bound to
attract our notice, and
a grand sight they
made, including the
handsome I'mbro-
sum. We were in-
formed that the large
bed of those here pres-
ent was self sown,
that the bed had been
occupied with hardy
Dutch Bulbs earlier
in the season, and
that the Poppies in
turn would be fol-
lowed by bedding
Geraniums. It was
remarked that self-
sown Poppies flower
some weeks ahead of
the spring sown, thus
providing a succes-
sion of this useful
plant. One prom-
inent bed that attract-
ed our attention was
that planted at its
center with a large
mass of the Great
Reed {Arunilo ila-
nrix) which is per-
fectly hardy and at-
tains to a height of
IS feet; this is sur-
rounded in succession
with Zebra Grass
(Eulalia Japouica
zebrinn), the varie-
gated Japan Eulalia
(Eulalia Jiiponica
varicfjata) and lastly
Pennistatum longis-
tylos, a handsome
grass raised from the
seed. The secret of
the wonderful growth
of these grasses is
that a heavy coat of
manxire is applied over the surface every |
Autumn, and which Is never removed.
Among other plants growing in beds and
borders which were singled out for their
attractiveness or other (lualities, were Ver-
bascum olympicum, Erigeron speciosa from
the western states, Spira?a filipendula fl. pi,
Helenium Balardri, Iris lurida, of odd
form, Grevilla robusta raised from seed and
used as an edging to a garden plat. Arauca-
rias kept over winter in a cold frame, Mos-
quito catching plant O'incctoxicum acu-
ininatum Japonicum ). A collection of
Lilies was observed growing amongst the
hardy Azaleas. A specimen of Desmodium
pendiculitlorum, was of very large size and
required the support of a trellis as shown
in Fig. 5, page "i33.
The brevity of our time did not admit of
visiting the greenhouses, (which are not ex-
tensive) beyond that Mr. Falconer insisted
on our glancing at some native Orchids
Cypripidum spcctabilifs which grew in pots
in a cool greenhouse being then in bloom.
With all the attention given to exotic
Orchids, it is indeed difficult to find any
that far excel in beauty this native species,
common to many parts of our country. As
Jlr. Falconer truly remarked they are finer
than many exotic species worth ten or
twenty dollars apiece.
In the fruit and vegetable departments a
large and varied assortment of products
suited to the family wants, are skillfully
grown. This department is a model in its
way and is by no means the least ornamen-
tal part of the place.
In leaving the extensive garden after our
all too brief visit of two hours, our atten-
tion was attracted to a winding avenue
arched over at regular distances apart by
nor can they be planted too early after they
are dug. Drying off the bulbs and keeping
them out of tlie soil until late in autumn,
as is now the rule with bulb planters, is
a pernicious system. Drying off bulbs is
almost a necessity for trade purposes, but
for all grown at home it is not.
SPRAY OF THE WHITE FLOWERING WEIQELA8.— FLOWERS PURE WHITE.
pairs of Pin Oak trees brought to the proper
curve by tying to iron rods arched as
shown in Fig. 6, page 2.37.
One of the Newer Weigelas.
Among hardy flowering shrubs no cla.ss
has more friends than the Weigelas or the
Diervillas as the botanists name them.
The habit of growth is handsome, the foli-
age is clean and beautiful the season
through, and the flowers, which come in
after the Lilacs, are unexcelled for beauty.
In every way the numerous varieties of
these charming Japanese shrubs deserves to
rank among the choic-
est and most desirable
ijf hardy growtlis
for beautifying the
lawn and flower
garden.
One of the more
recent varieties of
this species and now
growing upon the
POI'ULAI! Gaudexixg
Grounds, istlie White,
Flowered Weigela
( Dicrvilla Candida )
shown in the annexed
engraving drawn
from life. All the so-
called white varieties
previous to this one
had been lacking in
some important char-
acteristic—either the
growth was inferior
or the color deUcient.
But in the present
subject we have every
desirable quality
found in the class,
and withal the purest
snow-white flowers
which appear in the
greatest profusion in
•June and again most
acceptably if in small
quantities through-
out the summer.
Quite often when
we meet a flower pos-
sessed of special ex-
cellence it seems to
be at the expense of
vigorous growth or
hardiness of the plant.
With the present sub-
ject it is quite the re-
verse, along with the
handsome flowers the
habit of the growth is
iiiiiiiiiiiifiiMi!iiiiiiiii{iii]iiiii]iiiiilll]:;ililiL
Replant the Narcissus Bulbs Early.
MART S. WATER, ORLEANS CO., N. Y.
In a considerable experience with Nar-
cissus I conclude that if the bulbs are dug
in .July and at once replanted they will
flower quite as strongly, even if not actual-
ly more so, as if left in the ground unmoved,
and that in addition bulb increase and bulb
growth are alike improved by a course of
judicious removal.
On the other hand, if, as happens very
frequently in gardens, the bulbs are dug in
July or August, and are then dried and
tossed about until, say, October or Novem-
ber, the bulbs are weakened so much that
good strong bloom the first season after
planting is quite out of the question. I am
convinced that Narcissus bulbs cannot be
dug too early after the last week in June,
as free and abundant as that of the family
generally which is saying enough for vigor.
Ordinary size bushes set out in our grounds
in the spring of 1889 are at the present
writing fuUy five feet high and four feet
across with many shoots of the past seasons
growth from 18 inches to two feet in length.
Plants of this desirable Weigela can be
obtained of all nurserymen who carry a
considerable assortment of hardy ornamen-
tal shrubs, a number of whom advertise in
our columns.
1,848. Blood Manure for Koses, Blood manure
is largely used in English gardens, especially for
such pot plants as are strong growers and gross
feeders as Chrysanthemums, Geraniums, B'uchs-
as and Roses. Such stimulants are best ap-
plied when the plants have thoroughly appropri-
ated the soil in the pots, taking care not to wash
the fertilizer out of the pots when watering.
Blood manures impart a healthy deep green to
the fohage and al)undance of bloom, if applied
at the time when the plants need some stimu-
lant.—E. 0. Orpet.
236
POPULAR GARDENING.
August,
Blackberry Blossoms.
From a thicket In the corner of zig-zag fence
Where the succulent Pokeberry stalks uprear.
With Sassafras and Sumach In a wild growth dense,
The Blackberry blossoms through the brown rails
peer,
With dew drops shining on their long, white sprays,
Where the yellow bee buzzes and the redblrd flies.
They marvel at the world and its new found ways.
With innocent wonder in their wild, sweet eyes.
Magnolias are white.
And Roses are bright.
And many there be that love them;
But with dew-besprlnkled faces
And wildwood graces.
Oh, the Blackberry blossoms are above them.
When the Pine bows are swinging In the soft May
breeze.
The bumblebees are boasting of their springtide
gain.
And the mockbird Is singing out his happiest glees
To the cotton-tailed rabbit in the bend of the lane;
They lean their faces on the moss-grown rails.
And listen to the melody the mockbird weaves;
And the lizzards go a-darting with their trembling
tails
Like slim long shuttles through the last year's leaves.
Chrysanthemums are fair,
And Orchids are rare.
And many there be that love them;
But with dew-bespiinkled faces
And wildwood graces.
Oh, the Blackberry blossoms are above them.
—Samuel Mintur)i Peck. Good Housekeeping.
The Hollyhock
On a long and slender stalk
Blooms the jaunty Hollyhock,
Who so saucy, who so tall,
Peeping o'er the garden wail?
Rosy red and softest whlt«;
Sunshine is its keen delight;
In broad daylight him you see.
Kissing butterfly and bee:
Hale and hearty on his stalk
.Sways and smiles the Hollyhock.
Bepair the plant-houses !
Mulching keeps the soil cool.
The Grape crop promises well.
Ivy cuttings will root well now in shade,
Stakes to the Ohrysaothemums and fine Asters.
Most flowers are thirsty creatures this month.
August will do for transplanting Evergreens.
Young shoots of Lilac root readily now in a
close frame.
Liquid manure is both food and drink, ac-
ceptable to plants.
In Bosa rubifolia the leaves and bark are of a
pleasing reddish color.
Ivy-leaved Oeraniums are ideal plants for
the well-kept hanging basket.
This is (he month to divide and reset the little
double Daisies Bellti ixrennis.
Among Strawberries, Sbarpless, Jessie, Bubach
and Oandy are the best— E. D. F., Md.
Flower beds are to please the eye ; but they
will fail in this so long as weeds show in them.
Cannot you see the insect that does the mis-
chief '/ It may be a night feeder; watch for it by
candle light.
Spread it Out. Nasturtiums are not so pleas-
ant when the growth is allowed to form in
heavy masses.
Mr. B. S. Williams the fsraous English nur-
seryman and author died on June 27th, in the
fJTth year of his age.
The Saxony Government last year realized
$3.'),480 profits from the sale of fruit that was
raised in the highways.
Our Rose bed has been remarkably free of in-
sects. The soil is good; the culture has been
good. Weak plants always suffer most.
Bnhach is the sovereign remedy for Cabbage
worms ; but if you have nothing else at hand,
throw a handful of road dust into the crown of
each plant. ]
A "Fruit and Berry Picker," made of metal
and shaped like a thumb nail and somewhat serv-
ing the same purpose in pinching off the stems
when gathering fruit and flowers, is offered, by
a Philadelphia, Pa. concern.
Moles in Garden. I bad been much troubled
until I fell upon the following simple remedy : I
scattered sawdust soaked in paraffine and tar in
their runs, near where they entered the garden.
They have not troubled me since.— C. J. Rrntse.
Our large Bubach Strawberry, illustrated in
June issue, has served to bring us reports
accompanied with pictures of still larger berries,
of Belmont, Bubach, etc. Of course we did not
claim that we had produced the largest of all
these monstrosities.
Money In Nut Trees Two hundred Hickory
nut trees, and three hundred Walnut and Butter
nut trees yield more money to a citizen of Michi-
gan than can be made by any farmer by culti-
vating three hundred acres of land. At least
this is what Mr. B. Hathaway claims.
The Gypsy Moth, it is to hoped, will not make
much headway against the vigorous war waged
against it in the east. Scraping the trees, burn-
ing the rubbish, and spraying the foliage have
been the weapons employed with energy and
perseverance, even at considerable expense to
the people.
The Common Hop is anything but a bad orna-
mental climber. The writer of this visited a
neighbor recently who grows many choice clim-
bers, and who pointed with pride to a Hop vine
that had made a growth of nearly 30 feet this
season, a perfect " rope " of dark green hand-
some foliage.
Shame on the people who let their boys and
girls go away from home for a botton-hole
bouquet, or for.flowers for any use during sum-
mer and autumn when a profusion of showy
flowers might be had right at their own door,
with little effort, by simply cultivating a few
nice annuals.
The Mimulus, one of the prettiest of Cali-
fornia's wild flowers, is found there in several
varieties. One of these grows to be quite a hard-
W(ioded shrub, and sometimes the mountain sides
are literally ablaze with these pretty, buff-color-
ed flowers, which are borne on numerous spikes,
and form very large heads.
Lilium auratum. Every season's experience
convinces me that it is wet during winter and
not cold which destroys the bulbs of this magni-
ficent species. This next planting season we
hope to plant some roots on the sunny side of a
Privet hedge where the roots of the Privet keep
the earth dry.— May Wade, Monroe Co., N. Y.
Bussian Apricots, common and named varie-
ties, are not so hardy in bud as the Peach ; but
as they do not bloom any earlier than the Peach,
would not be injured one year in ten by late
frosts. The trees, however, are tender. I had one
three inches in diameter killed this Spring by a
frost that did not injure Peaches.— C. K. Meyer,
Tazewell Co., lUs.
Porcelain fruits, vegetable, pickles, etc,
colored to closely resemble the natural product,
are suggested for use with advantage in gro-
ceries and fruit stores to deceive the pilferer.
This tree sampling is often carried on to an un-
reasonable degree, and is annoying to the dealer,
and indirectly damaging the fruit growers. Let
the pilferer get hold of the porcelain imitation,
once or twice, and it will be apt to cure him.
True Beauty. When you say a flower bed or
plan of a flower garden or lawn is beautiful
think twice about it. Is it beautiful'i' Ifso.vou
can say why. If you decide at last that you are
mistaken, that it is only a monstrosity or
vagary then you will have learned something.
Much ot the fancy garden work is unnatural and
corrupting to good taste. As a rule you will
flnd that a real lover of nature has no pattern
bed on his lawns, and no sheared evergreens.—
K. P. PoweU.
A Live Oak near Charleston, S. C, is con-
sidered to be one of the most perfect trees in this
country. The trunk Ave feet from the ground
has a circumference of twenty-five feet, and
the main branches, shooting out at right angles
from the trunk at the height of ten feet above
the ground, have a spread of about one hundred
and twcnty-flve feet, forming a dense, symmet-
rical, flat head of indescribable beauty. This
tree may be found behind the old Drayton
Manorhouse on the Ashley river.
Chrysanthemum Tarietiea. Among distinct
varieties well worth growing, Mr. H.W. Hales
names the following: Elaine, pure white; Venus,
light lilac; Golden Beverly, bright yellow; Tim-
bal d' Argent, white anemone-flowered ; Juvena,
dark maroon ; Mad. Andiguier, clear pink, very
fine ;Koseum, bright rose ; Souce d' Or, deep
yellow ; Lakme, light bronze ; Golden Dragon,
Japanese yellow; Snowstorm, pale lemon chang-
ing to pure white; Red Dragon, dark red : Nym-
phsea, pure white sweet scented.
The Fyrethrnms. This interesting class of
plants is not only useful for the manufacture of
insect powders, but also furnishes us very beauti-
ful flowers. In Europe they are classed among
the most desirable of easily grown hardy yier-
ennials. P.carncnm audits varieties have large
and fine flowers resembling white, pink and rose
Asters. The P. Parthenium is the well-known
Feverfew of our gardens. The Golden Feather,
so much used for flower border, is a sport from
this latter species. All of the varieties and
species are easily grown from seed or by division
of the roots.
Screens for Boses. Did your readers ever try
the experiment of covering young Eoses in the
spring with cone of wire fly-netting, from old
useless screens ■/ With me it seems to develop
them much more rapidly, protecting them from
sun at mid-day, and from insects and grubs, till
their growth is much matured. Roses from two
inch pots are hard to save in the open ground
without some such protection. I also drive um-
brella wires into bits of wood and use them as
incuonspicous support for many weak plants In-
stead of the more common wood stakes.— 0. L.
Church, Bristol Cn. R. I.
Calceolarias from Seed. The value of these as
winter and early spring pot plants should be well
known, as they last a long time in bloom and can
be easily grown I sow the seeds in August, in
pans filled with a mixture ot loam, leaf-mould,
and silver sand ; water previous to sowing,
cover the seeds very slightly, place in a cool
frame j when large enough pick out into boxes,
and when they have grown to sufficient size put
into 3 inch pots and keep in a temperature of
45° to 50° close to the glass. When well pot-
bound repot into five inch pots. Give plenty of
air, never allowing them to get dry. Good
plants can be grown by any careful grower. A
good strain of seed is of course essential. —D.Roj/.
Destroying Weeds in the Lawn. I have tried
several methods of clearing our lawn of Dan-
delion, Dock, etc, and flnd that nothing is so
effectual in totally destroying them as a small
quantity of turpentine poured upon them. I
had dug these weeds out quite clean, but they
came up again stronger thau before. I then ex-
perimented by applying carbolic acid, kerosene
and turpentine. Kerosene had little effect upon
them, while the acid and turpentine destroyed
them outright. As turpentine is much the
cheaper of the two, it was given the preference,
and I am now using it upon all hard-killing
weeds as soon as discovered, and am well pleased
with the results. A teaspoonful of turpentine is
sufficient to destroy almost any weed.— Joftii F.
Hupp, Pa.
Blumenbachia coronata, shown in illustration
re-engraved from Gardeiung Illustrated, is a
Plant of Blumenbaehia in Flower.
prett.v hardy annual, native of Chili. Its flowers
are showy, the foliage elegant, and the growth
dwai'f and compact. The structure of the
flowers is somewhat singular. The boat-shaped
petals and the peculiar small scales between
them, together with the brush-like bundle of
stamens, render the blossoms very attractive.
It may be grown from seed, preferably sown in
spring, and treated as a hardy annual. It con-
tinues to flower from July to September if
grown in warm light soils. Other cultivated
species of Blumenbachia, natives of the southern
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
237
parts of South Americn, are B. t'»siom'.«, with
j>inv white lii^w<M"s niio ini'h across, ami Tt mult •'-
fidti. a plant of much stroiigiT larrowth, and niui-h
hux^T. livo-pnrti'il U'u\rs.
Settler's 8tru»(fle8 for Fruit wht-n 1 lame
hcMv to the Ozark Hills, seven years ago, 1 moveii
on a piece of iiplanil, with a few aei-es of t^leared
land <>\crjfro\vn with vines, briai's, and shrubs of
nian.\' l\inds. There were some Inniehes of seed-
Iniff Apple sprouts. I cut away all hut the host
fitini each cluster, ami cultivated the remaining
ones : and they have paid ine well for my tronhle.
The fruit is fine tla\oivd, of good shape, color,
and si/e. Theri' were also seedling I*each trees
which we cared for. that soon jra\'e us plenty of
fruit, and these Apples and Peaches, with Mie
wild ti-uits ^>-rowinK around us, kept our table
reasonabl.v supplied while our "tame" fruits
were jjrrowinj?. I be^m early to plant fruit of
all kinds, larpe and small, as many each season
as I could afford at the time; am still planting,
and shall i-ontinue to do so for many years to
ettnie, if I li\e.— /.r. TrowhriilucDnuijlas Co., Mo.
Hotne Experiment Stations,— Every farmers
tioy and every girl should be taught to tr.v ex-
^KTiments in culture. The whole laud should be
an e.xperiment station. The reports should be
made brief and accurate to State Headquarters,
to lie summed up, edited and the valuable given
to the public. Among other experiments should
l>e the raising of seedlings. Our grafted fruits
are subject to constant strain by being trans-
ferred from one climate to another; and by the
tendency to graft feeble stock. Growing seed-
lings is our own remed.y. We have our ideal
fruit or vegetable in but few directions. I sus-
pect our Strawberry may have culminated in
about as good berries as we shall get. But hardy
Blackberries, hardy Peaches, dessert Quinces,
choice Persimmons, etc, etc ; what an opening !
Try something boys, every mother's son of you.
— E. P. Powell.
Botany fo? the Home and School. In a book
entitled *' Fairyland of Flowers," from the
Educational Publishing Co., Boston, Mass., we
have an excellent elementary work on Botany
suited to popular use. It is from the pen of
Mara L. Pratt, who in some previous works has
established strong claims as an instructive
author. In the present treatise her plan has
been to make the study of flowers, in their bo-
tanical aspect so simple and untechnical, that
with a little guidance the child can take common
flowers and trace out their family, genera and
species. Illustrations have been used in pro-
fusion to throw light on the text. The author
has tried, and very successfully we think, to re-
lieve her work from the dryness so often dis-
covered by the average student ,'n the strictly
botanical works. Many a young reader will be
led by this book to almost on concsiously know
something of botany, who would turn with
weariness from the regular text books. It is a
handsome cjuurto book and costs but one dollar.
The Stndy of Botany, Weeds, flowers, shrubs
and trees are everywhere about us. The elemen-
tary facts of their structure, manner of growth
and classification, are so simple and easy that
they may be readily understood by a child. No
study so enlarges one's capacity for enjoyment.
But most important of all is the fact that our
intimate knowledge of plants, such as botany
affords, is indispensible to the farmer and gard-
ener. Men in other professions may get along
without, but the soil worker who is constantly
dealing with plants, cannot know too much
about them. Tt enables him to select his seed
with more care, adapting the variety to soil and
climate; it tells him how plants grow and what
food they require: it enables him to avoid losses
by weeds; it shows him how to prevent fungous
diseases; it teaches him what plants are worth-
less, and which are the most valuable. In brief,
botany in connection with chemistry and geology
constitutes the natural foundation ni a sound,
practical knowledge of plants and soil. The lead-
ing principles and facts of these sciences are the
frame-work, the very body and bones, of an
agricultural education.—Prof. Wm. R. Lazejiby,
Ohid State Univerxitji.
Fighting the Weed Naisance — Do you know
that the Canada Thistle is again on the increase?
The law is not enforced and never has been
thoroughly so ; yet the farmers did get alarmed
and fight the pest, but now they are giving it
license and it is spreading accordingly. I have not
seen an Oat field this year free from Thistles
while some are full. Within three miles of Utica
I can point out dozens of open lots, pastures,
meadows and roadsides that are covered with
these as well as other weeds; and all grow to
seed. In five yeai-s more it will have secured the
same hold it had thirty or forty years ago. Now
will you wake up in time and enforce the law V
What we ncc<l is county or town Anti-weed
Associations, organizations to enforce laws as to
the cultivation of weeds and neglect to cut them
Who will be the first to move in this matter? It
needs about twenty or ten earnest men who will
Fig. 6. Arching Pin Oaks, as practised by Wm.
Falconer. See page 234.
furnish means and prosecute a half dozen of the
shiftless weed breeders. Then the law would en-
force itself. But we also need in every ttounty
a Road Improvement Association, pledged to the
enforcement of existing laws as to weeds in the
highway ; and ready to prosecute any path-
master who does not rake up stones, mow weeds
and otherwise obey the statutes under which he
acts. We have laws enough, but too little
obedience. Such an association should make a
study of the best methods of road building,
which so very few of our people have the least
idea of.— E. P. Powell.
Climbers on Tree Trunks. In this style of em-
bellishment little is as yet done in this country
compared with the attention it receives abroad.
In a large garden at Brentford, England, this
style is now carried out in Hoses and with few
tacks being used, and these as small as possible,
no harm results while the wreaths of flowers
clustering round the rich-brown bar)£ give that
picturesque, wild, and natural appearance that
is inexpressibly charming. Noisette Roses are
the kinds used. Aged specimens of trees fast
decaying, and becoming in a certain sense un-
sightly, are generally selected for the Roses to
ramble over, and this they do most effectually.
One Cedar almost dead is embellished with Vir-
ginian Creeper, and a large tree of Red Cedar is
draped with this climber, the shoots hanging
gracefully down and covering what would have
been an unsightly stump. In another part a
Virginian (^reeper was fast hiding the bareness
of a Monkey Puzzle, or Araucaria that had lost
its lower limbs. The time to see the Ampelopsis
is the autumn. Then the rich-green leafage
changes gradually to brilliant-crimson tints,
which light up the garden with intense color.
A tree veiled with shoots and tendrils, as the
Red Cedar at Syon, looks in the autumn as if
encircled with Are. This kind of gardening can
be overdone. Only a little is wanted, and where
there are weather-beaten tree monarchs, whose
very age commands reverence, that may be
made picturesque and beautiful by planting
against their hollow trunks Roses or creepers of
the nature of the Ampelopsis. Breaks of white
Koses here and there in a large park certainly
have a peculiar beauty in the summer months.
Bush Honeysuckles, Among the very best
of those thoroughly tested at the Iowa Experi-
ment Station, Prof. Budd names the following :
Lotiicera splendens, classed as a variety of L.
Tartarica, but a western Asiatic form, with
softer foliage and a more pendant habit than the
species. The typical variety has large white
and yellow berries. Its abundant bloom is near
the point of growth, hence the bloom and after
crop of berries are more conspicuous than with
the common variety.— ion icera spcci'osi also be-
longs to the western Asiatic form of the species,
and in foliage and habit it is much like L. splen-
dens. Flowers very large, mottled pink in color,
followed by light red berries in great profusion.
This is nearly identical with the L. riibra
grandiftnra of European nurseries.— I/onicera
rubra viryinalis, a handsome bush with pen-
dent habit and large pure white flowers. Loni-
cera ruprectiana, a strong, growing species
from east Europe, with bold habit, soft foliage
and a great profusion of light, pink flowers,
followed by large, handsome berries. The variety
of the species from China has yellow flowers and
is far less desirable. The bees work freely on
this species. Loiiieera Ktilostcum.- This is a
near relative of the trailing variety known as
Lonicera IJnlleane, which is tender with us.
Like the latter its flowers are white, turning as
they get old to a creamy yellow, and the leaves
are soft and pubescent on both sides But it is
bush-like in form, with pendant shoots, and the
flowers are followed bj' very large, purple ber-
ries decidedly oramental. The bees gather honey
and pollen from this variety to such extent that
it is grown in hedges as a bee plant in east
Europe. Lonicera Albcrti.- This is a peculiar
representative of the Bush Honeysuckle from
central Asia. At first it appears to be a delicate
small leaved trailer, highest in the center, with
its points of growth resting on the ground. But
the cone ascends each year until it becomes a
handsome weeping bush four or more feet in
height. It is the most giaceful member of the
family in habit and foliage, and a profuse
bloomer with handsome after fruit. Flowers
dark pink, making a fine contrast with the very
small light green foliage. All the varieties and
species noted grow readil.v from cuttings of the
young wood put in in the fall, and they should
become common in our western nurseries.
Chat About Flowers and Their Uses.
As charming a bouquet as one could desire to
see, was recently carried to town by a gentleman
from his suburban residence. It consisted of
flowering branches of the Tulip Tree, with
plenty of the handsome leaves to back the bloom
a bunch of the purple Bowers of Salsify, and
some sprays of Reeve's Spiraea. It discounted
the florist's bouquets wholly.
A most beautiful bouquet of hardy flowers is
that of yellow Day Lilies and blue Irises, with a
free intermingling of the foliage of both.
Recently Mrs. Grover Oeveland had charge of
a flower booth at a charity fair in New York,
and the customers for her Roses, which were
held at from five to ten dollars apiece were so
numerous that they were obliged to form Into
line to be waited on.
To those who grow flowers in profusion, we
would say, study simple effects in arranging
those cut for the table or other purpose. To
mass a great assortment of bloom into a close
solid bunch will be found far less satisfactory
than to take some leading kind of flower for the
main display and then employ other kinds in
smaller quantities. A bouquet composed of
three or four kinds.will usually be more effective
than when ten times as many kinds are used.
On this principle in part, first class florists make
bouquets or baskets of Hoses, or of Carnations,
or of Orchids perhaps, depending on the various
colors of the same kind for a diversified effect.
While you are studying effective arrangement,
give attention also to having the flowers loosely
instead of compactly disposed of. Make one
bouquet with flowers, a good proportion of
which have stems from long to very long, and
another of the same kind of blooms, but with
short stems, and note how inferior is the effect
of the latter. It scarcely requires to be repeated
that with hardly any exception, flowers appear
to the best advantage when surrounded by their
own foliage.
At a recent swell wedding at Washington, taU,
graceful Palms filled the nooks and corners and
clustered about the bottom of the stairway. In
all the rooms there were masses of spring flowers,
pots of sweet Honeysuckles, jars of Snowballs
and Wistaria, low dishes of Violets and Pansies,
and mingled with them all were graceful Ferns.
A white satin ribbon stretched across the draw-
ing room, dividing it midway, on the other side
of this ribbon, and in the library beyond, was
the space reserved for the guests.
On the second floor in the long drawing room
extending across the front of the house, a bower
of nodding Palms and blossoming Rose plants had
been arranged with the oval mirror for a back
ground. The mirror was framed in a thick
fringe of Maidenhair Ferns and masses of Mar-
guerites. The mantel was banked with growing
Ferns,and from it drooped a pendulous fringe of
Asparagus vme. On eitlier side stood brass tables
on which were huge jars of La France Koses. In
the corners of the drawing room were clumps of
Palms, and on all the tables and brackets were
bowls of Snowballs and Syringes.— Observer.
238
POPULAR GARDENING.
August,
THE
SOCIETIES
TO BirwnBvf RMovnb
House Slops for the Gard-
en. If |iiiji>frlj- liistributed
the slops (it an ordinary
. sized family will furnish all
. the fertilizing needed for
the village garden. -E.G. Coo.
Insect vs. Insect. Noxious
insects should be fought by
means of parasites. This is the true scientific
method, and the use of poisons a grave mistake.
—Dr. BnnUe.
The Cottonwood is a kind of a thief, a
murderer. It will kill every tree within its im-
mediate reach by absorbing all the moisture
there is in the soil, and then, after killing the
other trees, it commits suicide.— iVf. Carpenter.
The Home Garden. The garden must be near
the hftuse, where the owner will see it many
times a day, and often improve the waiting
moments. It must be enclosed, at any rate, a
part of it. It must be well manured ever.v year.
—lllis. Hurt. Sneictij.
Frtiits for the Children Wo are often told if
fruit-trees were planted in the street the boys
would get the fruit. That would be one great
object in thus i>lanting, so that the boys and girls
could get the fruit. The fact is that children are
starving for fruit; and what with the scarcity of
the article and the enclosures surrounding what
there is, the average boy is forced into being a
thief.— M)>-. Helen V. A u.itin, N. J. Hurt. Society.
Judging Frnits at Fairs. So much fruit is
e.'shibited under a wrong name, says Orange
County Farmer, that the need of an expert is
always greatly felt. Let such an one be engaged
and the fact aimounced before the fair, coupled
with an invitation to those who have fruits which
they cannot name, to bring them to the fair. He
will have one or two days work on hand at least.
We have attended fairs where half the fruit
was wrongly named.
Picking Stunmer and Antumn Fears. While
many varieties will ripen upon the tree with
rich golden or crimson colors, like the Bartlett
and Sekel, all varieties of Pears will attain a
richer tint as well as a higher flavor by a little
attention. For the attainment of the best result,
darkness and warmth in the masses of fruit are
necessary. Fruit picked green should be ex-
posed long enough to become perfectly dry,
and is then packed in cloth-lined barrels and
cases.— Hoc*. Suciety af A'ortft Ills.
Birds as Planters. It is wonderful to notice
how far seeds of berries are carried by the birds.
The Wax Wing and Cedar birds carry seeds of
our Tartarian Honeysuckles, purple Barberries,
and many other kinds, for miles distant, where
we see them springing up near the lake shore,
where these birds fly in flocks to feed on the
Juniper berries. It seems to be the same every-
where. I found European Mountain Ash trees
last summer in a forest in New Hampshirel the
seeds of which must have been carried two
miles the way the crow flies.— R, F. Dimglass,
Am. Asgoeiatum of Nurtfcrymen.
Strawberry Syrup. At the Cash Strawberry
and Rose show of the Marshall County (I IlinoisI
Horticultural Society, there were on exhibition
samples of syrup, manufactured from the juice
extracted from the Strawberry, which were
highly commended, looking as though the parties
may have found a new and paying industry.
Strawberries can be grown by the 100 or l.OtK)
acres and pressed in the ordinary cider presses
of the country, and evaporated in the ordinary
sugar cane evaporators, and be made worth
much money to our State, I believe. Strawber-
ry-growers of our county will look after this
new and promising industry.
Pollen for Crossing. When the first blossoms
of the variety we wish to use for fertilizing have
expanded, we pluck out, with forefinger and
thumb, the stamens and pistils and drop them
into a cup. In an hour a smart boy can gather
in this way enough of the anthers— in the ' hard
pellet' state— to fertilize a thousand or more
blossoms. After gathering we dry it, in a warm
close room. In the process of drying the anthers
ripen and burst, and when needed for use a
camel's hair jxincil, moistened, will come out of
the dish laden with the golden dust. To show
the duraliility of pollen gathered in this rough
way, I will state that three years ago we laid
aside a cup of pollen not used for four weeks.
At the end of that time Dr. Halsted germinated
it on moistened slides quite as perfectly as that
freshly gathered.— Prof. J. L. Budd.
Effects of Lime in Soil. At the last session of
the Florida Horticultural Society, the following
summary was mentioned. 1. Lime acts with
felspar or clay, setting free potash or other
alkalies. 3. It acts on vegetable matter setting
free ammonia, water, nitric acid and carbon
dioxide tending to destroy exess of humus in the
soil 3. Neutralized organic acids- humic,
ulmic, geic, etc., — thus sweetening the soil. 4.
Takes up nitric acid as formed by the nitrifying
bacteria. .5 It is a plant food itself. H. Ren-
ders harmless injurious salts of copper, iron, etc.
7. Opens up clay soil from the "curdling" efl'ect
it has on the molecules of that substance. Soils
which contain more than 4 per cent of lime
(carbonate) should not be treated with lime.
Handling Apples. Mr. True in a paixsr read
before the Maine State Pomological Societ.v re-
commended trees to have all of the same variety
in one locality, nearly so, to save time in har-
vesting. His favorite ladder he made in fifteen
minutes out of two Spruce poles two inches in
diameter at the butt, fourteen feet long and
strips nailed across with clinch nails, having
ladder narrower at the top. All light-colored
Fall apples he picked right from the basket into
the barrels. Late Fall fruit might be put in
piles and sorted. Varieties like Northern Spy
should never be jioured from the basket. The
stems will penetrate the skin of those they come
in contact with, and be the means of decay.
Baldwins may be carefully turned into a cart
and sorted before storing. When one produces
a large quantity of apples it is better to build a
regular fruit cellar. A temperature of 30°
is about right. A moist cellar is best. There is
little danger of putting too many in one bin.
Baldwins may thus be kept till April or May.
The Bordeaux Uiztare as an Insecticide.
Professor Garman told of recent experiments
which had proven that the mixture (sulphate of
copper and lime) not only acts as a fungicide in
remedying Grape mildew and black rot as well
as Potato rot and scab, but that it also both
deters and destroys the insects infesting these
plants, so that one appication of the mi.xture to
Potatoes, for instance, will not only prove a
remedy for rot but also for the flea beetle and
<rolorado beetle. Professor Riley mentioned that
the discovery of the fungicide propei'ties of this
mixture had been accidental. For years the
vinegrowers near Bordeaux had been in the
habit of poisoning their outer rows of vines to
deter thieves. On the appearance of the mildew
(peronospora) some years ago.it was noticed that
the outer rows did not suffer, and it was not
long before it was discovered that the poisoning
was the cause of the immunity, and this particu-
lar mixture has since remained at the head of
the chea|> remedies for many fungous diseases. —
Entomol-ogieal Society of Ontario.
Essays by Toung People. The Illinois State
Horticultural Society sets apart one session of
the series to the young people. One of them
presided and the essays read were written by
farmers' boys and girls and the discussions on
the papers were carried on without any prompt-
ing from the elders. Of course, this was the
most interesting session of all the meeting. The
.voung men and woman showed how carefully
they had studied by treating the subjects given
them in a broad and thoughtful way, and, having
brought a fresh intelligence to bear upon the
<luestions, the old rut and routine were aban-
doned and the meeting went on with a sparkle
that surprised the listeners. One result was that
the city people discovered how much there was
to keep the minds of young people on the farm
alert and active if they are only properly direct-
ed. The farm ought not to be a dull place, with
all the processes of vegetable and animal life in
full tide all the time before open ej-es and inqui-
sitive minds. Another result was that this shar-
ing of the intellectual portions of a horticultural
meeting with the young folks is a capital way to
enlist their interest— to encourage them to add
the work of mind to that of the hand, to make
thoughtful and intelligent cultivators, to put
brains into the conduct of the farm— P/iita-
(ielijhia Presn.
Asparagrus, House-Plants, Etc.
At the meeting of the Alton, Ills., Horti-
cultural Society on June 6th, Mr. E. Hollls-
ter in his paper on Asparagus growing said:
It is claimed'^by some that there is but one
variety of Asparagus. I differ with them. Some
years ago I set out a small exi>erimental lot of
Conover's Colossal, More's Crossbred and Small-
ey's Defiance and noted the result, which was in
favor of the latter, both in size and quantity.
More recently I have tried the " Palmetto," and
was much pleased with it, and think it an im-
provement over the other sorts. As to market-
ing, the third-bushel box is in so general use,
and other packages are seldom seen or used; 1
have used with satisfaction a half-bushel baled
basket with cover, setting the Asparagus bunches
on end, packing two dozen in each.
In the after-discussion Wm. Jackson said he
liked Barr's Mammoth twice as well as he did
Conover's.
In reply to a question as to using salt on As-
paragus Mr. HoUister said, " I would use enough
to make the ground look white, and put it on in
the spring. I would not cut until after two
year's planted, though plants that are three or
four year's old when "planted can be cut quite
freely the first year."
Mr.Riehl is down upon the whole salting busin-
ess. Is an old notion, not of any benefit to the
Asparagus, and a somewhat expensive way to
kill the weeds
Miss Hilliard in her paper on the summer care
of house plants said she had tried all plans on a
small scale, and liked best to keep her plants on
low shelves on the north side of the house, not
close to a high wall, but where they will be well
shaded through the hottest half of the day. If
object of summer care is to secure Hne speci-
mens for next winter's enjoyment, we must
study the habits of each different class, and give
to each the individual treatment it requires. If
we depend, as many of us do, on such common
things as Geraniums, Heliotrope and the like for
our Christmas blooms we should not bestir our-
selves. Take slips from the finest varieties, and
after rooting then change them from small to
larger pots about once a month, pinching and
trimming them into shape constantl.v all sum-
mer, allowing no blossom buds to expand. Do
not let a hot sun strike the sides of the pot.
The first of September we should have well-
shaped plants in five or six inch pots, and they
should not be shifted after this date, for they
will not blossom so freely with too much root
room. Continue pinching for a month longer,
making them compact, symmetrical, full of short
Jointed branches. The first of October they are
ready to remove to the south window of a mod-
erately cool room. Foliage and Rose Geraniums
will do in larger pots than is required for the
flowering kind.
Young Roses in course of preparation for next
winter will do best if started in small pots early
in the spring, shifted into one size larger pots
once a month as they make root growth. By the
middle of August they should receive their final
repotting into six or eightinch jars. Thisissome
trouble, but I am convinced it is the best way to
insure tine winter Roses. In every case all the
buds should be removed.
She favors tin cans of rich earth for Tuberoses
and wooden boxes for Violets or Primroses.
" Potted Chrysanthmums for December blossom-
ing need constant watering and clii>ping." She
confesses that the Amaryllis " is an enigma."
The Sulphuring of Dried Fruit.
\ Prof. Hitgard of the California Experiment Station.
The question whether sulphuring of dried
frnit is a harmful practice or not, continues
to be a bone of contention.
This sulphuring of dried fruits has two chief
objects;one,and that most generally kept in view,
is the brightening of the color, which always
darkens, particularly in sliced fruit, in whatever
way it may be dried; the change of color being
due to the action of the air upon certain easily
changeable substances contained in all fruits.
This darkening is a practically inevitable result
of drying any fruit in contact with air, whether
in sunshine or by artificial heat, and should be
looked for by every consumer, as the natural
mark of an honest, unmanipulated article.
The .second object sought to be attained by
sulphuring, is to render the fruit secure from
the attacks of insects; whether by rendering its
surface unpalatable before the eggs are laid,
or by killing eggs laid during sun-drying that
might subsequently hatch in the packages. The
latter object involves, of course, the sulphuring
of the dried fruit, the former is to a greater or
less extent attained by sulphuring before drying.
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
239
When freshly sliced fruit is sulphured for a
shdit time, the gas ;KMii'tratos only "skin-deeii":
and when tile fruit is afterward dried, whetlier
in the sun or dryer, most of the uns eseapes and
few pei-sons would note the dillereine in taste
produced thereby. Insects, iie\ ertluless, are to
a very material extt'ut deterred from touching
such fruit.
Hut when ihc latter is dried and then tho-
roughly sulphured, as is tooeouiniouly done, the
ell'ect is much more serious. The jftus then pene-
trates the entire spousfy mass, bleaching it, so
that carele.ssly dried frnit,toodark to be market-
able, can thus be made to appear more or less
inviting to the eye. Not, however, to the
nostrils or to the taste, for with the color, the
flavor has also suffered eorresponrtingly; and
upon opening a package of such fruit, instead
of the natural aroma, there appears the flavor
familiar to those who visit a chemical laboratory
or acid maiuifaetory.
The consumer then has reason to object to dry-
sulphured fruit on two counts, either of which
is sufficient to condemn the practice. One is
that dirty, ill-prepared or damaged fruit may
thus be imposed upon him for good quality; the
other, that the natural flavor of the fruit is
either seriously impaired or sometimes complete-
ly destroyed, and its acidity greatly increased.
There is another and very serious count in the
indictment, namely, that such fruit is unhealthy
becjiuse containing an antiseptic that impedes
digestion, and while the fruit is relatively fresh,
causes headaches Just as will sulphured wine.
After some time, the "sulphurous" acid origin-
ally introduced becomes converted into
"sulphuric" acid, a condiment that few will
desire to consume in their daily food. The
sulphuric acid contained in the unsulphured
fruit is present in the form of "neutral salts"
such as occur in the ash of all vegetable products;
while that which is added in sulphuring e.vists
in the form of free acid.
In Apricots the increase of sulphuric acid was
to the extent of about twice and a half the
amount originally present, although these were
reported to have been sulphured only before
(more probably during) drying. Their lack of
natural flavor and pungent acid taste at once
revealed the effects of sulphuring.
In Prunes which had been sulphured after
drying, the effect was much more striking.
Here the increase was to over six times the
natural contents. The total amount added by
sulphuring amounted to nearly a third of one
per cent , and the tree sulphuric acid in the
dried fruit amounts to 32 per cent., which is
about 35 grains of commercial oil of vitriol per
poimd.
In addition to rendering the fruit unpalatably
acid, it had been rendered obnoxious both to the
digestive organs and to the teeth. No one could
habitually consume such fruit without feeling
the effects of such an amount of mineral acid,
introduced into his food purely for the gratiQca-
tion of the eye with an unnatural tint.
But so long as the public, and its agents, the
dealers, continue willing to pay from 30 to .50 per
cent, more for the whitened sepulchres, offered
them in the shape of sulphured fruit than for
that which retains, with its natural tint of dried
fruit, and with it the marks of careful or cai-c-
less treatment, so long will the producer con-
tinue to supply the demand for the doctored
article; unless, indeed, the law should entervene,
as has been done in most European countries.
There the sale of sulphured fruit is simply for-
bidden as injurious to public health, and as
coming under suspicion of having been doctored
up from an inferior article with fraudulent
intent.
I think the time has come to make a step for-
ward and try U) put upon the market a flrst-class
article of "unsulphered dried fruit," with the
express statement and claim that it is un-
sulphured and retains the natural sweetness and
flav(jrof California fruit, instead of being re-
duced to a common level with the worst products
of any other country. For it is certain that the
whitish-green dried Apples and Pears now sold
at high prices in our grocery stores might just
at well have been grown anywhere from Norway
to the Mediterranean, for aught they teach of
the quality of our fruits.
The following suggestions are offered to those
who are willing to practice sulphuring to a
moderate degree only, and with some regard to
the conservation of the fruits' palatableness:
Large quantities of sulphur introduced at
once into the drier or sulphuring-box will t«nd
to cause a deposit of sulphur, in subst4incc, on
the outside of the fruit, adding its flavor to that
of the acid, which alone is useful. The less
sulphur is put in at oue time, an<i the more air
adniittcil, the less there will be of the visible
fumes that carry the sulphur up into the fruit.
It is best to let the sulphur catch fire all over
licl'ore putting it into the box at all.
Let whatever sulphuring you must do, be done
before drying, as in that case not only will the
drying process itself drive off a great deal of the
superfluous acid and prevent it from penetrating
the whole, but the flavor of the interior will
penetrate outward and measurably do away
with the laboratory odor that will otherwise
pervade the fruit package.
A very sightly and appetizing cinnamon-
brown tint for sliced Apples and Peal's maybe
secured by dipping for a few minutes, the
freshly made slices, contained in a properly
shaped basket (of galvanized wire if desired),
into a solution of salt contjiining not less than
two ounces in five gallons of water. This pre-
vents any spotting where the fruit has been
touched. Instead of the salt, a similar solution
of the bissulphites of soda or lime may be used,
which effect a slight external bleaching without
injury to the flavor of the fruit.
Last, but not least, let us try to gradually
educate the public taste up to the point of pre-
ferring in this matter the substance to the
shadow, and accepting healthy, brown, high-
flavored dried fruit to. the sickly-tinted, chemi-
cal-tainted product of the sulphur box.
Grapes as Affected by Climate
and Situation.
[Paper by Geo. W. Cambcll, the introducer of the
Delaware Grape, before the Nurserymen's Associ-
tinn.\
The widely differing opinions upon the
cliaracter and value of our most popular
Grapes seem at first sight unaccountable. 1
have in mind the conticting reports which I
have .seen upon the southern seedlings of the
Riparia class— mostly from the Taylor and
Klvira— which was introduced from Mis-
souri with high commendation. Also upon
the so-called hybrid varieties of Messrs.
Rogers, Ricketts, Moore, etc. I may also in-
clude special varieties of more recent date;
notably Niagara, Empire State, and Pock-
lington; as well as Brighton, Eaton, Wood-
rufl: Red, to say nothing of many more of
less prominence.
Within my own experience, all the Riparia
seedlings, such as Elvira, Missouri Riesling,
(Jrein's Golden, and several others known by
numbers, with Faith Amber and Noah, have
failed, in my locality, to meet expectations.
While their habits of growth, health, hardines
and productiveness are generally good, they are
not acceptable for general use. But because this
is my experience the same varieties may, in their
native home, imder the more genial influences
of a southern sun, be all that their introducers
claimed, and valuable acquisitions to their list of
native Grapes.
The various reports which we have of the
Pocklington, Empire State and Niagara indicate
to me simply this -that in some places and under
favorable circumstances they are successfully
grown and valuable— while in others, to which
they are not adapted, or from some unfortunate
surroundings, they are not. During the past
season, in my reading of one day, I saw reports
upon the Pocklington from two different sources
—one praising it as a Grape of remarkable ex-
cellence, the other finding it so poor that he
wanted to prosecute the nurseryman who sold
it to him for a fraud.
Nearly as diverse have been the reports upon
the Empire State. In some places it has appa-
rently sustained the high character claimed by
its mtroducers. in others it is reported to have
failed both in the health and hardiness of the
vine and in the quality of its fruit. In my
locality the Empire State has t)een healthy in
foliage, vigorous in growth, and— excepting in
the past season, when it failed to ripen perfectly
—the finest in quality and flavor ot any white
Grape I grow. In this instance the vines were
l)robably allowed to overbear, and a cool, rainy
autumn prevented their maturity.
The Niagara has sustained itself fairly well-
though it will not endure our severe winters
without protection. It is not as early as was
represented— unless it is gathered long before it
is ripe and while it is l.)oth immature and foxy—
but if left ujK>n the vine until well ripciuMl, it is
a really good Grape, retaining but little of the
fo.xy taste or (Mlor. My experience with the
Niagara indicates that in localities to which it is
adapted it will prove a valuable and profitable
variety. The same remarks will apply to the
Woodruff lied, except that the latter has proven
so far as tested, healthy in fruit and foliage, and
entirely hardy in our severest winters. I still
regard the Woodruff' as probably the most
promising red Grape for general planting yet
introduced.
Ot Mr. Rogers' many varieties, I will mention
but one as bearing upon the points I wish to
illustrate. His Number One, or Goethe was in-
troduced as a light or amber-colored Grape ; and
in Massachusetts, I presume, it rarely attains a
deeper color. At Delaware, where I have grown
it for more than .10 years, it sometimes obtains
a light red or pink shade; but was always flavor-
less and insipid, with the exception of a single
instance, when the autumn was unusually warm,
and the ripening season prolonged until about
the middle of October. It than attained a color
as dark as the Delaware and a high flavor and
good quality hitherto unknown, thus showing
that farther south, where the skies are brighter
and the seasons longer, it might be a valuable
Grape. This, 1 believe, is just what many of our
southern growers find it; and the Elvira, with
its kindred varieties and seedlings, are no doubt
equally improved under the same favorable con-
ditions.
i'l'ti he ennchided.)
Notes of a Kecent Visit to Mexico.
/Extract of imiier read by C. T. Druery, Ks<j., nt the
monthly meeting of the Horticultural Cliib.Knatand. )
Leaving England early in .January, and
arriving in New York only about a week
later I was struck at once by an aUsolute
absence of all greenness in the woods which
here and there fringe the Hudson river.
Here in Great Britain, even in the depth of
winter, the Hollies, Ivies and other ever-
green growths contribute a certain amount
of verdure to the landscape. In the Ameri-
can woods, however, on my line ot route,
this feature was entirely absent, and the
winter landscape is one of apparent death,
the gaunt bare trunks and branches being
absolutely unrelieved by any signs of life.
On the fourth day after leaving Kansas City
the green prairies began to be transformed into
sandy desert plains dotted with Yuccas of sun-
dry species, with here and there a solitary small
Cactus, indicating a decided approach to the
south, though icicles were hanging in profusion
round the watertanks at every depot, and snow
was lying in many places. Arrived at Nogales,
a small town on the frontier of Arizona, Mexico,
where I had to stay some days. I devoted my
spare time to exploring the country around in
search of Ferns, but at first sight despaired in
ti)lo of seeing any of the family in so apparently
arid and scorched a country. The landscape
consists of a constant succession of low rolling
hills exactlj' resembling heaps ot reddish road
metal, dotted here and there monotonously with
Yuccas and Agaves sticking up like huge sphe-
rical bunches of radiating baycnets; beyond
these hills were visible ranges of mountains
some 4000 to COOO feet high, equally bare and un-
promising. On my first walk, however, I was
agreeably undeceived, for the first canon or
valley I turned into between two of the small
hills yielded several very beautiful species of
Ferns, among them some Cheilanthes and silvery
NothochlR'nas, which I found growing freely in
the crevices of the rocks, and, though small,
evidently quite at home.
One of the most striking things to me was the
fact that I found associated here, and thriving
in each other's society, Ferns and Cacti, the re-
presentatives of inhabitants of at once the most
humid and shady and the most arid and sunny
habitats, and what was equally strange to me
was that while all the species would bo relegated
here to a warm greenhouse and carefully pro-
tected from a single trace of frost, not only was
snow lying in the chinks of the rock, but icicles
five feet long were depending from the tank in
the depot, and I was credibly informed, and
could from my own-sensations easily believe it,
that 30° of frost had been registered there this
last winter.
240
POPULAR GARDENING.
August,
In connection with this I should mention that
Nogales stands 4,000 feet above sea level. Ram-
bling over the hills some very beautiful Cacti
were visible here and there in the more exposed
situations. Some consisted of seven or eight
perfectly round balls about six inches in diame-
ter and heaped together; others were oblong and
solitary with a pink ring near the apex ; others
were very much flattened and deeplycorrugated
but all alike bristled with thorns. The Opuntias
or Prickly Pears were represented by two species
—one with long formidable looking thorns, the
other apparently almost devoid, but only appa-
rently, for, like many of their brethren, besides
these large and obvious weapons of defence,
every bud produces numberless very minute
thorns or spicules which come off on the slight-
est touch, and are only felt when they have got
well beneath the skin, perhaps half an hour
after one fondly imagines the foe is left behind.
Pursuing my Fern hunts I was gratified by
finding that very pretty Fern Pteris ternifolia,
of which two forms exist there— one with obtuse
oval pinnules, the other with sharply pointed
narrow ones, P. ornithopus. A fine crenate pin-
nate NothochUvna, very much resembling in
habit and growth our Ceterach olBcinarum. was
also found. From this district I brought home
fronds of NothochliT?na rufa, N. dealbata, N.
Newberyi, N. sinuata, Gymnogramma hispida,
Pteris ternifolia, P, ornithopus var. brachyptera,
PelUea marglnata, P pulchella, Cheilanthes
elegans, C. Eatoni (?). The trees of the locality
are ehieflly Walnut and Black Oak. On the
former I observed a considerable quantity of
Mistletoe not very dissimilar to ours, but with
much shorter and wider leaves.
The next place I visited was Hermosillo, some
170 miles further south and at a considerable
lower elevation; the main part of my .journey
was at night, but in the morning I found the
train slowly,very slowly,plodding along through
a plain, bounded at some distance b,v a line of
hills of decent height. The plain now was brist-
ling with thorny vegetation of many species
but mainly Cacti, which formed huge clumps
ten to twelve feet high, intermingled with con-
fused spiky masses of other species, which
seemed to replace the Brambles of this country,
while the larger ones, the Cereus species took the
place of trees; this growth continued until within
about half a mile from Hermosillo, where the
hills closed in, dotted all over with much larger
specimens of the Cereus tribe, now 15 to 20 feet
high, each plant resembling nothing so much as
some .30 or 40 immense corrugated Cucumbers,
springing perpendicularly from one point. .Sud-
denly, however, as we entered the suburbs of
Hermosillo we seemed to plunge at one leap into
the tropics; groves of tall Palm trees were seen
surrounded by a luxurious growth of Bamboos
and Castor Oil Plants, mingled with Orange
groves, and all basking in a temperature in the
first week in February of about !tO° in the shade,
and by contrast with Nogales apparently about
150° in the sun.
The change was so sudden and so great that
when I alighted at the depot I half felt as if I
had been dreaming, and was still in the land of
visions. The sudden change is probably due to
the effect of radiation of heat from the hills
around, added to the protection theyalford from
wind. The houses here, as in all the cities of
Northern Mexico, consist of one story only,
the rooms and offices being built round a central
square or oblong courtyard, with more or less
pretension to be a garden, generally less.
Leaving Hermosillo and the railway, my next
trip was up the Sonora river itself, the ijed of
which from here to its scource forms one of the
few so-called roads of the district, roads which
are utterly at the mercy of the weather, a sud-
den attack of rain l)eing liable to imprison
travelers between impracticable fords with only
a possible option between taking to the hills or
submitting to Mexican fare of tortillas and Beans
in one of the native villages until it pleases
Jupiter Pluvius to open the road again.
Here as nearly everywhere the hills were brist-
ling with the huge Cucumber-like Cacti afore-
said, locally called Pitayos; every chink in the
rock had its tenant, and many thousands were
in view at once. Several species of Acacia
(Mesquite) and a white ghost-like tree called
Palo Planeo presenting a very curious, tortuous,
drooping appearance, as if the upper half was
dead. This I found was really the case owing to
a severe frost the previous year, which had cut
them all half way down. The pink Verbena of
our gardens was a common weed here, as also
was wild Tobacco. A small yellow (Enothera or
Evening Primrose took the place of our Primula
morning and evening, and Escholtzia califor-
nica replaced our Buttercups, Agaves, here
called Mescal plants, were plentiful, and every
now and then donkies laden with their huge
Pine apple-like roots were seen proceeding to
the Mescal ranches, where the only spirit of the
country is distilled. This spirit is very strong
and intoxicating, but has the reputation of leav-
ing no headache behind it. Its taste is indiscrib-
able, and requires an apprenticeship before it
can be appreciated.
Three species of CEnothera I found in the dis-
trict, one of which, CE. taraxacifolia, is marvel-
lously beautiful in its native habits, the huge
snow white flowers, about 4 inches in diameter,
forming solid clumps a fofit across, gleaming
like snow heaps in the moonlight, but disappear-
ing like all the family soon after sunrise. All
three species were of the same habit and foliage
— i.c.,o to Dandelion. The specific name of the
largest, taraxacifolia, may do for all three.
Some of the Acacias here (Mesquits) bore huge
pendent bunches of two sorts of Mistletoe, both
quite different from ours, the leaves being al-
most entirely aborted, and the plants consisting
solely of long pendulous jointed stalks and
minute blossoms. I was told by one of the
Machine fur Hilling Cikry. Sec opposite pacrc.
Mexicans that if these were dried and smoked as
cigarettes, two or three whiffs suflicing, as the
active principle was very strong, a powerful
remedy was afforded for coughs. While camp-
ing out by the river I explored some rocks close
by, and found a species of Lastrea, not unlike L
thelypteris, but of different habit of growth,
possibly L. nova boracense.
During the latter part of my stay in Mexico
the season had sufficiently advanced for many of
the Yucca and Cactus tribes to be in blossom;
and I can hardly imagine afiner sight th;in 1 had
on one of my trips over the hills, when I came
across a huge Yucca with some five or six im-
mense spikes of its pure white lily-like blooms
just in perfection. There must have been sever-
al hundred blossoms, forming a dense bunch of
white, some 4 feet high by 2 through. When I
came up it was in absolute perfection, and con-
stituted a really regal bouquet.
The common prickly Pear Cactus (Opuntia), as
large as a fair-sized Rhododendron, and smother-
ed with large pale yellow blossoms, is also a
sight to be seen. This plant is given a place in
orchards for the sake of it« fruits, and under
cultivation assumes the demensions of a good
sized tree, with a trunk a foot or more in dia-
meter. It is curious in this case to see the
transmutation of the first flat oval leaf or leaves
into a thick wooden trunk. The skeletons of
these old leaves are very beautiful in their lace-
like design, and might, I think, be utilized well
in cabinet work.
It is noteworthy that these cultivated plants
are nearly devoid of thorns, entirely so of the
obvious large ones. As a curious contrast in
habit of growth I may mention here that on my
return journey I stopped at Little Rock, a city
in Texas, for a few houi-s, and found there the
prickly Pear Cactus reduced to a few inches in
height, quite decumbent, very prickly, and
forming large flat masses. 5 or 6 feet across, in
the grass of the fields, from which at a small
distance it could hardly he discriminated.
The Giant Cactus, Cereus giganteus, which
sometimes reaches, I am told, 60 feet in height,
I only saw in one place, which afforded a singu-
lar instance of restricted locality. I was shown
some photographs of a certain mine which I was
desirous to visit, and in these photos 1 clearly
recognized in the hills several specimens of this
Cactus which I had vainly sought in my journey
hitherto. The mines were some thirty miles
distant across a breakneck country, only travers-
able on horseback, and I need hardly say that
all the way I was on the lookout for the Cacti in
question, locally named Saguarus, yet singular
to relate 1 found when I arrived at the mine that
they were entirely confined in that region to the
one hillside, where possiblj' some thirty or forty
were scattered. On the way the country round
for many miles could be seen, but here and there
only were they to be found, yet the general
conditions seemed identical all about. The hill
in question, however, was distinguished from
the others by containing a network of silver
lead veins, which sugfjest the probability of the
restriction of the Cactus being due to the exist-
ence solely in this spot of some essential elements
in the soil. Some day the botanist may help the
miner.
On the return journey, passing through Texas,
at one of the stations the train was besieged by
a lot of children selling Cacti and Resurrection
Plants (Selaginella lepidophylla). These latter
they collect on the sandy plains, where apparent-
ly during the dry season they roll about and are
literally baked, but when the wet weather set in
they at once open out and re-establish them-
selves. A specimen was three weeks in my
portmanteau, but a few hours' soaking re-
stored it absolutely to life and verdure. When
the family habits are considered, and its close
kinship to Ferns, this adaptation to alternate
drought and soaking is very singular.
Niagara I will not attempt to describe. One of
its greatest peculiarities to me was its utterly
unexpected appearance. One goes rolling, and
rolling, and rolling through a country as flat as
a pancake, and apparently about as likely to
afford a magnificent view, much less a stupen-
dous^waterfall, as the flattest part of Essex; sud-
denly, however, the train slacketis speed, pulls
up at the edge of a precipice, and there in an
instance their appears the awful gorge of
Niagara, with its world of tumbling water:
above it the mighty river itself, stretching awa.y
to the horizon, across a seemingly boundless
plain, and below the green whirly mass of foam
and flood, pulling itself as it were together out
of the chaos of its fall for its second mad rush
through the rapids below, which in all their fury
are seen fighting their way along the deep
channel, bounded by the tall cliffs, through
which the raging water has cut its headlong way.
Peach Culture in Connecticut.
(Sytioi^sis of talk by J. H. Hale, and discussions before
the American Nurserymetis' Association.)
Mr. J. H. Hale of Glastonbury, ConD.,
gave an interesting account of a case of suc-
cess in what is usually eledned an ttnfav-
orable latitude. Their firm commenced
operations 1.'5 years ago in the central-part
of the state on lands overlooking the Con-
necticut river.
The start was made by securing pits from Ten-
nessee. The seedlings from these were budded
and a small orchard started on hillsides. The
best of culture was given to the young orchard
from the start. Experiments were made in the
application of different manures. Where stable
manure was used, the trees were vigorous and
healthy, but proved short-lived. Their conclu-
sions are that heavy applications of potash and
bone made healthy trees, while manures con-
taing any considerable amount of nitrogen led
to disease and yellows.
The Orchards. The Hale Brothers now have
.52 acres in Peach ti ees, all on high and dry lands
They were not long in discovering, with ther-
mometer in hand, that frost runs down hill almost
like water, hence they selected only high lands
for orchards. With them in winter the mercury
runs down to 12, 10 and 25 degrees below zero,
but there was a heavy fall of snow on the ground
at the time. The pruning in their orchards is
done mainly just after the bloom is f)n the trees,
when they are closely cut back, regard being had
to thinning the fruit at the same time. Mr. Hale
regards proper thinning as one great secret
of success. After this blooming-time pruning
they go over the trees again and remove four to
one of the remaining fruit when the crop is an
average one. While this, when carefully done,
is a big job, the result is a still larger crop of line
fruit an»i a good price.
Marketing. For marketing their crop they
pick the fruit only when it is fully mature and
carry it to seeds for sorting and packing The
sorting is done by ladies, persons of good taste
and judgement from the better class in their
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
241
ueijrlilim-luKHi, iind who do not object to
aniniKO iu the work when they reeiive S~' (HI per
diiy. The paeking is done in new whit*; baskets,
made fniiu uphinil Poplar, tlie fruit being jiacked
absolutely honest from top to bottom. They
then guarantee everything being Just right, and
ask and get 75 cents more a basket than the run-
ning priee.
Trees for Planting. Mr. Hale stated that in
phinling their large orchards they have bought
more or less trees from other nurserymen, but
have always found a certain degree of mixture.
This he attriliutes to the common course among
propagators of taking buds from the nursery
stock instead of from liearing trees. Hcstrongly
urged nurserymen present not tn dt> this. He
knows that it is more trouble to procure buds
from bearing trees, but good cultivation and
thorough tillage wUl lead to a yield of suitable
buds.
Financial Outcome. Although their experi-
ence in I'euch culture was very satisfactory and
promised excellent results, yet Mr. Hale did not
hesitate to say that if what they had accom-
plished was to be judged by the dollar and cent
returns for the e-xpenses Involved, then the
operations had not yet been the success they
have credit for. He stated that their large or-
chards up to two years ago were In debt over
Sfl.OOO. The crop of that year about equalled the
expenses. Last year they gathered 17,000 baskets,
which sold from §2.50 to f 3.00 per basket for No.
I fruit, and the cheaper for from SI.BO to $2,00
per basket The orchard average about 1.04 per
basket, making a total yield of $2n.0iM. They felt
proud of their triumph at last, when for years
there had been a cry against their undertakings
as being sure to result iu failure,
A Caution to Imitators. Now his neighbors all
see this and are greatly impressed by the large
returns of fruit in the past few years, but they
know nothing about the work and the expense
involved. Their success, therefore has been the
means of leading many of them to plant very
extensively, and in all sorts of ways. Mr. Hale
believes that 100,000 Peach trees have been planted
this year in their section, but of these he thinks
80,000 will never bear a Peach. He gave quite
an amusing account of how the agents talk in
order to sell trees. One firm lays great stress
upon the fact that we are now coming around
to old time Peach culture, when every tree, pro-
vided it was the right kind, would bear im-
mensely. Such agents were prepared to furnish
these trees. They were propagated strickly from
the seed the same as In their grandfathers' time.
These agents sell many trees at gl.OO each or
glO.OO per dozen. His neighbors were gullable
and invested heavily, but the whole thing was a
fraud and a disgrace.
Mr. Albaugh made some remarks to the effect
that there are two Peach belts in his state, one
near Lake Erie and the other south along the
Ohio river. He thinks the principal advantage
of the latter is the high hills. In this part of
Ohio they have had three or four successive
crops of Peaches.
Mr. Albaugh also called attention to another
Peach belt in northern Kentucky and southern
Indiana. He mentioned one orchard of 30,000
Peach trees, one-third each of Salway, Smock
and Henrietta. The trees are in bearing, healthy,
no yellows, the trees bending to the ground with
three or four baskets of fruit from each tree,
and from which the growers realized after care-
ful picking at the rate of J3.50 per bushel. In
that vicinity there are over 200,000 trees in bear-
ing, and they have recently made the growers
rich. While in Ohio, Indiana and Illinois Peaches
have been a large crop for three or four years,
this year there is a break.
CONDENSED GLEANINGS.
Machine for Hilling Celery. The mold-boards
are ailjustable to suit the height of the plants,
and laterally to correspond with the width of
the rows, the machine being designed to crowd
the earth from the bottom of the furrows under
the leaves simultaneously upon both sides of the
rows. It has been patented by Mr. Maurice M.
Hanney, of Michigan. The side beams of the
frame are adjustable laterally upon the cross
beams, and from the under side of each side
beam projects a pedestal with an attached spud
axle upon which the drive wheels revolve. A
post extends downwardly, from a bracket on the
under side of each side beam, through a staple
and eye formed on a plate attached to the for-
ward end of the mold-board, each post being
stayed by a brace bar, and the eyes and staples
lieing large enough to move freely upon the post.
For the vertical adjustment of the mold-boards,
a link connects the staple on the forward end of
the mould-hoard, each post being stayed by a
brace bar. .\nd the eyes and staples being large
enough to move freely upon the post. For the
vertical adjustment of the mold-boards, a link
conncts the staple on the forward end of each
with the forward end of a lever fuleruracd upon
an upright of the frame, a rack secured to one
of the side beams lieing provided for each lever,
which extends to within easy reach of the driver.
A stirrup is bolted upon the outer face of each
mould-board at its rear end, a chain from each
stirrup passing over a friction pulley Journaled
at the upper end of a rack secured to the center
cross beam, to attachment with a lever pivoted
on the forward cross beam, and extending to the
driver. The mold-boards are so hung that they
are quite a distance apart at their forward ends,
and nearer together at the rear, where the two
boards are connected by a
siiiral spring, which spring is
attached through short adjust-
able arms, whereby the spring
may be lengthened when it is
desired to only half hill the
rows. The driver, by resting
his feet In the stirrups of the
mouldboards, can adapt them
to any crookedness of the rows
or irregularities of the surface,
the machine being adjustable
to rows from three to five feet
apart and from six inches to
two and a half feet in height —
Scientific American.
Superior Produce always
Pays. Of late very flue and
beautiful fancy Pansies have
been brought into the London
flower market, in large quanti-
ties, at 3d. and id. each at re-
tail, while scores of thousands
of good Pansies— fancy, bed-
ding, etc.— are sold at from 6d. to 9d. per
dozen during the season. The very fine strain
referred to is grown from seed sown about .luly,
dibbled into the best of highly manured soil,
slightly sloping, and over these as tlie spring
comes on are placed broad, low frames and lights
keeping the plants also well watered; they are
brought into bloom in rapid succession, and the
market is furnished over a long season. Of
course the fine quality of the flowers is primarily
due to the strain, but some of the size is mate-
rially due to cultivation, whilst covering them
with lights not only develops the blooms early,
but-evenly,so that with several ranges of frames
at disposal, a long .succession of flowers is main-
tained. The production of these beautiful
Pansies is but another evidence of the care and
forethought shown b.v some of our market
growers in catering for the requirements of
the public. The trade in them so far has shown
that good things pay best, whilst the public pre-
fer to be well served, even with such common
hardy flowers as are Pansies.— Gardening World,
The Purslane Pest, The only weed that some-
times troubles me badly under my system of
management is the one known as " Purslane " a
near relative of the garden "Portulaca," with
its succulent leaves and stems and its indiffer-
ence to ill treament. Dry weather does not wilt
it ; a hot sun does not burn it ; cutting off with
hoe or cultivator does not generally kill it; and
the more you cut and mutilate it, the more you
do for its rapid increase. I can keep it in reason-
able subjection by the unceasing use of wheel
hoe or finger weeder between the rows, and by
pulling out from among the vegetables in the
rows, provided I have some one following me
with a basket to pick up and remove the plants
to the chicken-yard or hog-pen (hogs are fond of
the weed). But on larger areas, in Potato Helds
and patches of running vines, where the soil
cannot be frequently turned over or cultivated,
the stuff is hard to kill, and still harder to pre-
vent from seeding. But can we not invent a
sure and simple way of eradicating this garden
pest?— Farm and Fireside.
Marketing Fruit. The following are a few of
the general rules which should be oqserved by
cultivators and shippers. 1. Send no fruit to
market but the best in quality; reject all imper-
fect specimens; and the man who becomes
known for always furnishing only the best, will
in time lead the market. 3. In picking and pack-
ing, do not touch, rub or chafe the fruit with
the hands ; preserve its bloom and freshness ;
handle only the stems, as nearly as practicable.
3. Avoid the adoption of the absurb fallacy that
" good fruit must sell the poor." 4. Pack with
strictest honesty, and with as fine a quality in
the centre of the package or at the bottom as at
the top, which will not prevent you from giving
a smooth, handsome surface to the packages.
5. Thus by furnishing only the very finest fruit,
you can afford to stencil your name on every
package ; and in this way your name will become
a synonym for the Onest in all the market. —
Country Gentleman.
Watermelon Sugar. There is at the eastern
edge of the San Joaquin valley along the foot
of the Sierra Nevadas much land subject to being
destroyed by deep washings of sand, on which
nothing will grow but Melons, only two being
allowed to mature on single vine. As the Melons
are gathered they are slashed upon with a big
knife, and a wooden scoop empties the pulp into
a vessel where the juice is expressed. This is
A DAFFODIL SIEVE.
boiled rudely and crystallized like Maple sugar
in the Atlantic states. The sugar sells at remu-
nerative prices, is light colored and sweet. Red
pulp Melons give a darker sugar; white pulp
is therefore preferred. We have in this state a
great area of land similarly destroyed every
year. This sugar Melon example is commended
to poor men, who can get the free use of the
space and proceed on small capital.— Natural
Wealth of California.
The May Moss. One of the loveliest of our
Pine-barren plants is the May Moss or Pyxie
(Pyri'danthera barbulata). It belongs, botanic-
ally, to the order of Diapensiaces^, and in general
appearance very closely resembles one member
of the Phlox family, the Moss Pink, having the
same prostrate creeping habit and similar foliage.
The flowers are pure white and star-shaped, but
its greatest charm lies in its unopened buds,
which are globular, about one-eight of an inch
in diameter, white with a rosy blush, and dotted
thickly over the plant, nestling like gems among
the foliage. Several of these plants, which were
transferred to the greenhouse about the first of
January with a temperature of 60° to 70°, com-
menced flowering in three weeks, and on re-
moval to a temperature ten degrees lower, they
remained in bloom for weeks— Wm. F. Bassett
in Am. Garden.
Georgia CoUards. What we want here in the
south is a Cabbage that can be safely carried
through late summer and be reliable for heading
in autumn and winter. The difficulty in this
has led to the almost universal use of the Collard
which by the by is no mean vegetable after frost
has made it tender. The practice of calling any
Cabbage that has failed to head a Collard has
given this vegetable a bad name with those who
have never tasted a real Georgia Collard. The
difficulty in raising the plants in hot summer
weather is one of the greatest obstacles to the
raising of winter Cabbage here, and it seems to
me that growers at the north or in the mountains
might make a good thing by supplying the low
country with plants for setting in August and
September.— W. F. Massey.in Garden and Forest,
Daffodil Sieve. The Illustration shows some
workmen engaged in lifting and sorting the
bulbs of Daffodils in a nursery. The implement
is of simple construction, and in form a combi-
nation of hand-barrow and cinder-sifter, the
frame of wood and the sieve of wire, the bulbs
when dug up in dry weather with a six-tined
steel fork being shaken lightly about by hand
the adhering soil falling through, and all the
242
POPULAR GARDENING.
August,
bulbs remaining on the sifter. The picture
shows part of nursery, with growing crops of
Callas, Peas. Potatoes, etc., and the matured
foliage of various Narcissi.— London Ex.
Potato Bug 1«8S Numerouj. The fact that the
Potato beetle is proving much less numerous
than usual, is probably due to the excessive
amount of rains last winter, keeping the soil
tilled with water. The Potato beetle goes in the
ground or finds a hiding-place under some rub-
bish where, encased in frozen soil, and in torpid
state, it awaits the coming of spring to reach
the surface, and begin his season's work. Wet
weather in winter instead of cold spoils such
calculations. The torpid insect of any kind can
not protect itself from water, and soon perishes.
—Am. Cultivator.
Gathering Lima Beans. If desired to make
raimey out of green Lima Beans, the pods should
be picked immediately after they have attained
their full growth and when they have shown a
tendency to take a tinge of yellow. The Beans
are at this time mature but tender and are at
the very largest stage, from this time on de-
creasing in size. A few days' difference in the
time of picking, either early or later, will make
a difference of nearly one-half in the quantity
of shelled Beans from a given number of pods.
— Cal. Fruit Grower.
The Honntain Ash. This is not so much
planted as it was. People are too busy nowadays
to destroy the borers at the root, so the borer
destroys the tree. It's a pity, too, for when the
tree is full of its bright red berries it is uncom-
monly beautiful. A handsome specimen which
1 saw last week made me wish such sights were
more common. In Europe it is called Rowan
and, sometimes. Service tree. The American
species are also very beautiful, as all will testify
who have seen them in the Adirondacks or on
the shores of Lake Superior— Mr. Meehan,
Phila. Press.
Unsatisfactory Novelties. I got a few Wilson
plants in either 1S60 or 1861. Soon new varieties
came with every spring and fall, and 1 began
buying and testing them ; and scarcely a year
has passed since that time that 1 have not
ploughed under from one to a dozen new
varieties that I had spent time and money upon.
To-day I can say 1 never had any Strawberry
plants equal to Wilson, in all respects, unless it
may be some of those I am now testing.— A. J.
Smith, Tribune.
Australian Forests. As a matter of fact, there
are no forests in the world where so multiform
and continuous fragrance is perceptible as in the
"bush" and " Fern " of Australia ; the flowers
and flowering shrubs are often as exquisitely
scented as they are brilliantly colored, and the
Accacia, the Palm, the Fern-tree, and many
others, afford grateful and delightful shade
from the scorching ra.vs of the 'summer sun.
Harper's Magazine.
Oregon Grapes. There have recently begun
e-xtensive importations of Russian and Asiatic
Barberries, some of them quite remarkable in
growth and foliage. But these should not lead
us to neglect the interesting Paciflc coast species,
especially Malwnia aquifolla and M. Jtervuga
("Oregon Grapes "), which are easily cultivated,
and striking in foliage, flowers and fruit. T. H.
Hoskins.
Preventive for Insects. I have used waste
from rejected tarred felt roofing as wrapping
round collai-s of Apples, Peach and Quince trees,
with good success against borere; also around
the edges of room floors under the carpet, to re-
pel the buffalo moth.— Trib.
The Tulip Tree. It is of beautiful, clean
growth, but should be planted only where there
is plenty of room to grow, as it grows to a great
size. It is sure death to this tree to transplant it
in the Fall. Spring is the time.— Phila. Press.
Spading-Fork. We consider the spadlng-fork a
neglected tool. For "spading up" land It is far
superior to a spade, as it breaks up the soil much more
completely, and it works easier.— Am. Garden.
Keep the Roots Moist. Remember always, when
transplanting evergreeens, that if the roots get dry,
the tree Is gone.— W. R.
Japan Quince. Don't be persuaded that It has any
value as a fruit. As a hardy flowering slinib It is un-
excelled.
The bright flowers are sometimes poisonous: but
I believe never the swet-— (iuesses at Truth.
A highly cultivated garden Is half the l)attle In sup-
plying the family table.— Tenuesee Farmer,
Vegetable Products on the'Table.
Huckleberry Sauce. Pick over and wash ripe
fruit, and strew with powdered sugar.
Grape Pie. One egg, one teacupful of sugar,
one heaping teacupful of Grapes. Beat the egg
and sugar together, then add the Grapes, one
tablespoonful of flour and a little butter. Bake
with two crusts.— From " How to Use Fruits."
Green Grape Jelly. Gather full-grown Grapes,
pick from the stems and put in a stone jar. Set
the jar in cold water over a hot fire and let boil
until the juice is extracted. Strain, and allow
a pound of sugar to a pint of juice. Boil twenty
minutes.
Huckleberries and Milk. Into a quart bowl
crumble crackers «r a roll and a half ; fill with
rich new milk, or milk and cream, half and half.
Pour into the bowl half a cupful of Huckle-
berries, and stir contents together. A nice dish
for lunch.
Mock Oysters. Six plump ears of Sweet Corn
uncooked; grate from the cob; beat one egg,
stirring into it flour and milk of each, one table-
spoon, season with a little salt and Pepper. Mix
in the grated Corn and fry in hot butter, one
spoonful in a place, turning them. Serve hot
for breakfast.
Canning Tomatoes in Glass Cans. We gather
the Tomatoes from the %ines when they begin to
turn, put in the cellar until red, then wash clean
put in a pan of boiling water until the skins
bui-st, then pare with knife and fork, put back
on the fire without water and cook until soft ;
can hot, and place in the cellar. The fruit keeps
fresh and good— L. T). R.
Bipe Grape Jelly. Select rii^e perfect G rapes,
pick from the stems, put in a porcelain kettle,
and let heat, then strain, or run through a jelly
press. Measure the juice, return to the kettle
and boil five minutes ; add three quarters of a
pound of sugar to a pint of juice. Let cook a
few minutes longer ; take from the Are, pour in
glasses, and set away to cool.— Housewife.
Blackberry Minute Pudding. Steep a heaping
half-pint of Hlackbcrries in one full pint of
water ten minutes. Make smooth four table-
spoonfuls of flour in a little cold water and pour
into the berries and boil, stirring carefully, till
it thickens, and the flour is well cooked. Serve
with sweetened cream while warm, or mould in
pudding cups and turnout to eat cold. -From
How to Use Fruits.
Pineapple for Diptheria. Pineapple juice is
now reported to be a sure cure for diptheria.
Get a ripe Pineapple, squeeze out the juice, and
let the patient swallow it. This juice is of so
corrosive a nature that it will cut out the dip-
theric mucus, and if you will give the Juice of a
Pineapple not yet ripe, to a person whose throat
is well, it will make the mucous membranes of
the throat sore. Pineapple juice is a simple
remedy, cheap, easily procured and easily tried.
Horse Badish Sauce, Mix two or three heap-
ing tablespoonf uls of fresh grated Horse-radish
with twice as much cream. Salt it lightly and
stir in an equal number of dessert spot)nfuls of
vinegar with a teaspoonful of sugar. Add a
little Pepper-sauce or Cayenne if very hot sauces
are liked. Good either hot or cold. If preferred
hot, it must be warmed in a double boiler,
taking care that it does not boil, or it will curdle.
Especially good with roast beef, hot or cold.—
Am. Cultivator,
Gooseberry Padding. A pint of milk, a teacup
of pastry flour, five eggs, half a teaspoonful of
salt and a pint of fruit. Head and tail the
green Gooseberries, and set them aside till the
batter is prepared. Separate the whites and
yolks of the eggs. Mix the flour with enough
milk to make a smooth batter, add the yolks of
the eggs, beaten thoroughly, and then the rest
of the milk and the salt, and flnally the whites
of the eggs. Turn half the batter into a well
greased tin mold, add the Gooseberries and the
remainder of the batter. Suspend the mold in a
pot of boiling water, and keep the water boiling
around it for 1!^ hours. Serve it with a nice
hard sauce.— Am. Cultivator.
Plum Pudding. One-half pound chopped suet,
oni^half pound of flour, one-half pound bread
crumbs, 1 pound grated Carrots, 1 pound Pota-
toes, 1 pound of Currants, 1 pound of Raisins, 1
pound Apples, 1 teaspoonful of Ginger. 1 tea-
spoonful of Cinnamon, 1 teaspoonful of Allspice,
1 teaspoonful of baking-powder, half a Nutmeg
(grated), 1 pound of sugar, a good pinch of salt.
Mix the flour, bread crumbs, suet. Carrots, Gin-
ger, Cinnamon, Allspice, Nutmeg, baking pow-
der, salt, and sugar well, than add Currants
Raisins, (stoned and cleaned), and Apples. Mix
with water or milk into a soft paste, boil in
floured cloth for four hours, or in a basin or
mold for five hours.— Glasgow Cooking School.
Bice with Tomatoes. Fry in half a teacupful
of oil— one or two Peppers whole. When done
take them out and remove the thin outer skin,
and place them on one side. Cut up one or two
green Peppers and fry them, and a small Onion
cut up. When the Onion is tender, but not
brown, put in five or six Tomatoes, skinned and
broken. Let these fry until quite pulpy, stirring
frequently, that they may not burn nor stick to
the pan, then throw in a breakfast cupful of
Rice, stir it well in, add plenty of hot water and
sufficient salt, and let it boil gently, until the
Rice is nicely done and the water all absorbed,
taking care to stir frequently, that it may
neither stick nor burn. Serve with the whole
green Peppers for a garnish. This dish is also
good without the Peppers— Bn(;l sh Recijic.
HOUSE PLANTS.
Ageratums, If desired for winter flowering, should
not be worked for bloom now.
Anthericum variegata, which Is a line house plant,
needs considerat>le root room. Smaller pots, however,
may be used for It, If In reijotting the roots are washed
entirely clean, and placed In new soil.
Aspidistras. Stimulate leaf growth by applications
of lk|uld manure.
Balsams, If wanted for the window in late fall, may
be lifted from the border and planted in large pots.
Begonias Intended for winter bloom, should have
the buds, as soon as such appear on leading branches,
well piuclicd back to Induce stocklness.
Browallia. If wanted as pot plants start seed at
once.
Callas for early flowering may now be started to
grow. Give rich soil and plenty of water.
Chrysanthemums. The early varieties may now
receive some weak liquid manure once or twice a
week, and this treatment should be continued until
through bloom.
Coleus. Strike cuttings for winter.
Echeverias, Water moderately and give sandy soil,
which need not be rich.
Daphne and other Evergreen plants and shrubs, if
needing shifting, should have It not later than this
month.
Freesias. A dozen or more bulbs may be planted in
a large pot or box, to be used for the window garden
later on. They are very desirable tor their delightful
fragrance.
Fuchsias. The old stock of winter bloomers, which
are yet at rest, may now be taken from the pots and
cut back within three or four Inches of the roots. Wash
off the soil, and repot in fresh, rich loam, using water
sparingly, until the new growth calls for a more liberal
supply of moisture.
Insects. Examine Chrysanthemums for black aphis
ami thrips, and apply Tobacco dust or tea to the
aftecteti plants. Earth worms troubling Roses and
other growths may be kejit in check by soaking the
earth in the pots freely with lime water. Look out
for red spider on Fuchsias.
Oleanders, Oranges, Pomegranates, Hydrangeas,
etc., to be repotted as needed.
Petunias. To make nice plants for the window
garden In autumn, trim back the straggling branches
resulting from rapid growth.
Propagation. The amateur may now proceed to
Increase his plants of a somewhat tropical nattire,
such as FIcus, Cissus, Rex Begonia, Cierodendron, etc.
Good success may usually be had by placing the grean
cuttings in sand In a shady place and covering with
some glass vessel, watering slightly as needed.
Roses for winter bloom must not be stimulated too
much by overpotting.
Tuberoses. Specimens just In bud at the end of
month. ma,v be carefully lifted and potted out for
flowering in the hou.se later on.
Veronica, Give applications of weak liquid mauure
to encourage the flower spikes now in process of de-
velopment.
Vinca. The roots of this may be divided, and what
is needed for the house i)otted at this early date to
give the .i)art remaining in the ground time to recover
and become established for the winter.
Window Plants. For such a light cellar makes a
good potting shed and store room.
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
243
LAWN AND FLOWER GARDEN.
Acacias, Mountain Ash and oruaineutal fluwerlug
fruit trees slmuld be examined for the burer. Use the
precautious or remedies advised for fruit trees.
Edges of flower beds, walks, etc., to be neatly
trimmed once a month or of tener. lu absence of an
edKlng knife, a sharp spade will do.
Everereens may be suoeessfuUy transplanted this
month. Select damp, cloudy weather: guard the roots
carefulli' against ilrylng even on the surface while out
of the ground, and sprinkle the plants overhead every
evening for several weeks after planting.
Gladiolus. See to the proper supports. Spikes of
strong plants may be cut out early t*i Induce the pro-
duction of new splices later.
Hollyhocks arc not safe from Injury by heavy winds
without l>eiug kept tied up to stakes.
Neatness of be<is and borders will depend upon the
tise of stakes for all plants that need them. Many use
the painted stakes sold for the purpose, because they
think they " look pretty " with their white heads upon
a green stake. When properly useil, the stakes them-
selves should not be seen, and the fairly straight stems
of bushes answer well enough. Trim up the flower
beds, clip the plants of formal beds, reniove faded
flowers and stalks of perennials, and throw out early
annuals that are past their blooming season.
Fropaeation. Layering of Roses, shrubs, etc., may
still go on.
Rockeries. Remove the tops of plants that have
passed into a state of maturity. Do not allow the
plants to suffer from drought.
Seed sowine of perennials, such as Pansy. Holly-
hock, Delphinium, Dianthus, Aquilegia, Canterbury
Bells. Digitalis, Lychnis, Myosotis. Perennial Poppy,
lyibelia cardinalis, Antirrhinum, and others, may yet
be done if done promptly. Provide partial shade for
young plants when up.
Lilium candldum, and some other Lilies not at rest,
to be transplanted at this time.
Everlastings, for drying, gather before fully ex-
panded, tie in small bunches, and hang in the shade.
Save seed from best flowers only.
Vases, tubs and pots set on the lawn need close at-
tention to keep them from injury by drying out. Give
water often and plentifully.
Verbenas. Cut back the extremities, give frequent
doses of liquid manure, or strew some fertilizer over
the plants to help them over this period, and induce
them to give a flne crop ot bloom and cuttings for
propagation later.
Walks and Drives. Keep free from lat« weeds, and
repair the surface with fresh gravel where needed.
Watering, whenever done, should be thorough. A
little sprinkling does no good. Mounds and slopes re-
quire some extra attention. Lawns in cities, where
hydrants furnish an inexhaustible water supply, are
frequentlyoverwatered causing an unhealthy condition
of the soil. Lawn trees, however, can stand plenty of
watering, and respond with rapid growth. A good
plan Is to punch holes Into the ground over the roots,
by means of iron bar or spading fork, and giving the
water a chance to go where it will do the most good.
PLANT CULTURE UNDER GLASS.
Camellias. Give plenty of water while at it, but
not too often. If unfortunately a plant has become
dry at the root, a good way of watering is plunging
the pot in a tub of water for half an hour.
Carnations for early winter flowers should receive
their last heading back.
Chrysanthemums. Stop the Pompons for the last
time: the large-flowering sorts not to be stopped again.
Stake and tie as needed. Plants intended for show
should have some of the surface soil replaced by some
rich, half rotten manure; or weak liquid manure may
be given at intervals of a week or less.
Coleas and other bedding plants of such kinds as
are scarce, or of which it may be desirable to get up a
large stock next year, may now have the first cuttings
taken off and put in.
Geraninms for winter bloom should now be entirely
stopped. Start cuttings now for plants with which to
decorate the house early next spring,
Lanrels, and other hard-wooded plants, as Aucubas.
Laurestlnus. Arbor Vitaes, etc.. that have completed
their work for the season in the ground, may be lifted
at any time during this month and next.
Orchids. As the growth of any Orchid appears to be
completed, gradually withhold water and remove to a
cooler part of the house. Encourage the growth of
young plants lately potted.
Pelargoninms. Cut back now if not yet done. Ends
of shoots to be used for propagation.
Requisites. If the needed repairs to the greenhouse
have not already been made, this should be no longer
delayed; the houses being now as empty as at any
other time. Clear out, cleanse, repair, paint and flx
up generally. Provide pots, potting soil, fuel. Ex-
amine and lest the heating apparatus, get everything
in readiness for restocking and activity Jater.
Roses. Syringe those for winter flowering daily,
closing the house after last syringing later. A liberal
mulch to the bedded Roses now will be of great help
to them. To get rid of old canes of Teas curve
them to the ground, pegging them do%vn, when new
and strong shoots will break from near the base of the
old canes.
Smilax. Sow seed for next year's plants, and start
up the old roots that have been kept at rest.
Stocks. Seed of Ten-week and Intermediate sorts
may now be sown. For succession sow at lnter\'ais of
six weeks.
FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD.
Apples of the early varieties, wherever found, and
even if not perfect, should be carefully save<l and
utilized this year by canning and otherwise. There
will be something like a fruit famine next fall and
winter.
Blackberries. After »he fruit Is gathered, the old
canes may be cut away. The new canes for next year's
fruiting should be headed back at the height of three
feet. The laterals which afterwards start are also to
be cut back so the whole cane will be shaped somewhat
In pyramidal form.
Budding may be done as soon as the bark of the
stock peels freely, and buds in the proper condition of
maturity can be had. Cherry, Pear and Plum are the
first to bud; Apples next, and Peaches and Quinces to
follow at the end of the month, and perhaps into Sep-
tember. Watch the growth, and cut the bands before
they cut Into the bark.
Currants. Thin out fully one-half of the new
growth, and remove old canes weakened by age. Cut-
tings may be made and struck now. Take shoots of
the new wood, cut eight inches in length and insert a
trifle slanting Into well-prepared soil, with only one
bud left exposed. Firm the soil thoroughly about these
cuttings.
Gooseberries to be treated like Currants. Cuttings
do not root quite so readily, however, and a stirer way
of propagating Gooseberries is by hilling the plants up
high with nice mellow soil, and inducing the young
canes to strike root.
Grapes should be closely watched and treated for
mildew and rot. This is about the only late fruit which
promises something like an average crop this season.
Care and precaution with the Grape will pay the
grower well.
Marketing. The chief difficulty In marketing fruits
this year will be to get the fruit for putting on the
market. Even second and third grade tree fruits will
find ready sale this year at acceptable prices; but the
grower should not be Induced to think that strict
grading, and care In picking and packing, is of less
importance than usually. The grower who has fruit
to sen, can better than ever afford to take pains with
it. and put it on the market In nice packages and most
attractive shape. As an experiment we would advise
the use of smaller packages than usual, especially for
Pears. Peaches and Plums. Fancy prices will prob-
ably be obtained for flne fruit thus put up.
Mulching young trees chat are suffering from
drought, is a commendable practice.
Raspberries. Trim as advised for Blackberries, ex-
cept that the laterals must be allowed to grow in case
young plants are wanted. The ends of these laterals
have a natural tendency to bend down, creep over the
ground and take root: but a stone or a hoeful of soil
placed upon the cane near the tip will aid It in getting
a foothold in the soil.
Strawberries. Keep the beds that are to fruit next
season well tilled and free from weeds. Stimulate
with a good top dressing of hen manure or wood ashes,
or both. Bone dust and muriate of jwtash is also a
good dressing. If good potted plants are set at once, a
fair crop may be had from them next season.
VEGETABLE GARDEN.
Beans. Keep free from weeds, hoeing frequently.
See that the Llmas all take nicely to the poles or trellis.
If late snaps are wanted, some of the earliest sorts, like
Early Valentine, may yet be sown.
Celer? Set plants for late crop. Begin to earth up
the earlier plantings as soon as the stalks have grown
large enough.
Cucumbers for pickles should be gathered at least
every other day. Cut the fruit from the vines with
knife or scissors; do not pull them, thereby injuring
the vines.
Egg Plants are great feeders, and like a frequent
dose of liquid manure. As the fruit gets large, place
xmder It a wisp of straw or hay, to keep It from the
ground.
Melons. Of some sorts a large share of the fruit
sets too late to ripen before frost. Cutting these off
will lielp the rest of the crop. A mulch of straw or bog
hay will keep the fruit from the ground, and hasten
ripening.
Onions. Gather when most of the tops have died
down. Cure thoroughly t>efore storing. Sell when an
acceptable price Is offered.
Seed saving of but few things is to be commended
in private gardens, as the needed care wlQ not be
given. For most seeds it is more satisfactory to buy
of those who make a business of raising them. In
small gardens there is great danger of crossing and
" mixing."
Spinach. Sow now for late fall use, selecting Round
leaf or Long Standing Summer.
Squashes. Keep the cultivator going until the vines
cover the ground. Then pull up all large weed3 that
may appear among the vines.
Sw^eet Potatoes. Keep free from weeds, and move
the vines often enough to prevent rooting at the joints.
Tillage. Keep cultivator and hoe busy wherever
the ground is not covered with vegetation. Stirred
soil Is a good mulch, and a prevention of the 111 effects
of drought.
Tomatoes. We always like to save our own seed of
these, selecting the earliest and most perfect speci-
mens for this purpose. Squeeze out the pulp In a ves-
sel, and allow it to stand until fermentation has freed
the seed from the slimy matter which envelopes it. It
may then be readily washed clean and dried. Put in
paper bags correctly labeled.
FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER
GLASS
Grapes. Give plenty of air to the fruit now ripening.
as this will help both color and flavor. Remove part
of the shoots If they are crowding. This will help the
ripening of the wood for next year's fruiting. Remove
defective berries from the bunches now forming in
cold grapery.
Mushrooms. It may be worth while the trial to
raise them under the greenhouse stages or In a cellar
or shed. Mushroom growing Is an Infant Industrj- that
will bear fostering and nursing. 'It Is also a paying
industry, and by learning. In a small way, how to grow
the crop successfully, it may point out a way to flnan-
cial success.
Strawberries. Keep the pot -layered plants in the
shade until the pots are well filled with roots; then
shift into six-Inch pots. Use strong loam and rotted
manure for potting soil, setting the plants quite firmly
Give all the water they need.
THE POULTRY YARD.
Scaring chickens by trying to catch them, or
in other ways, is a poor practice. The tame
fowls always do the best.
Eubbieh heaps should not be allowed in or
near the pnultry yards and houses, as they fur-
nish harbors for rats and other vermin.
Weeding out the Flocks. Kill the puny, sickly
birds and plant near the foot of a tree or Grape
vine. No more profitable use can be made of
such stock.
Condition powders may be good ; but clean
quarters, good food, and a variety of it, with a
continuous supply of fresh clean water are
much, better.
Our Experience Also. Every one of our hens
that has had a chance to sit on the ground has
done well. The higher and drier we have made
the nests the worse the failure has been.— R.X.Y.
Sparrows Eating Chicken Food. Soak meal
in whiskey and feed it in a box nailed to a pole,
set in the chicken yard. Or soak whole Wheat
in a white arsenic or strychnine solution and put
in a box placed as mentioned.
Garden wastes, such as old Lettuce going to
or gone to seed. Spinach, Cabbage plants, poor
specimens of Tomatoes, weeds, lawn mowings,
etc.. are things which fowls in confinement will
now receive gratefully and turn to good account
in tiesh and eggs.
Tarred Paper vs. Lice. The odor of fresh tar
is offensive to lice, but tarred paper soon loses
its strong odor, and in time will be of no use at
all as a oroteetion against lice. Don't use tarred
paper thinking it will obviate all necessity of
other precautions.— Am. Farmer.
Sell off Old Stock. The demand of boarding
houses, etc., for old fowls at this time, and light-
er supply, always results in better prices than
can be realized later in the season. The old hens
now begin to fall off in egg production. Sell off
your surplus now, l>efore prices begin to drop.
Keeping Eggs. Eggs may be kept in fair con-
dition for several months by immersing them in
a pickle made of two pounds lime, one pint of
salt and four gallons of water. They may also be
preserved by packing them in fine salt or in dry
wood ashes. Place them small end down in the
salt or ashes and do not allow them to touch
each other. In all cases put in only strictly fresh
eggs.— Farm Journal.
Fattening Fowls. At this season of the year
the hens will fatten very readily, and will gain
more rapidly on a small space covered with grass
and feed three times a day, than tbev will in
coops. In feeding them, however, varv the food,
giving ground Uats and Com meal, scalded, in
the morning. Potatoes mixed with Corn meal
and bran at noon, and all the Corn and Wheat
they can eat at night. A yard 10 bv 30 feet will
be large enough for 50 fowls for ten davs or two
weeks, which is ample time forgetting them fat,
and if they are in fair condition at the beginning
one week will suffice. If the yard is bare of
grass, keep a trough of finely-chopped grass
where the hens can eat of it at will.The hens must
be bountifully supplied with sharp grit, and pure
water should be kept within their'reaeh all the
time; charcoal, ground or pounded, is also ex-
cellent, and at night the quarters must be com-
fortable. No fowl will fatten rapidly if lice are
present.— Farm and Fireside.
244
POPULAR GARDENING,
August,
Correspondents are urged to anticipate the season In pre
aenting questions. To aak, for instance, un April 15 or 20
what Peas had best be sovm, could bring no answer in
the May issue, and none before June, when the ansioer
would be unaea.sonable. Questions received before the Uth
of any month stand a good ohatice of being anstivred in the
next paper. Not more than three questions should be sent
at one time. Answers to questions be<..rinu on t.:e com-
parative value of implements, etc., offered by different
deaiers must not be expected. Neither can we promise to
oomply tpith t/ie request sometimes made to "please answer
by mail" Inquiries appearing without name belong to the
name next following .
Replies to Inquiries are earnestly requested from our
readers. In answering such give the number, your
locality and name, the latter not for publication, utilesa
you desire. Write only on one side of the paper.
1.928. Bordeaux Mixture. How prepared for Grape
diseases? Or what other solution do you recommeud?
— Wm. T. B., New Torh City.
1.929. Plan for Cold Pit. I desire to keep flowers
growluK during the winter. Please give plain practi-
cal plan.— A Subscriber, Colorado.
l,93ti. Huckleberry Plants. Where can they be ob-
tained?-E. W. T., Williamsfteld. III.
1.931. Value ofWoodashes. Going to move by ear
to new location this fall. Will it pay to move several
barrels of unleaehed wood-ashes? — W. M. K., III.
1.932. Enemy to Raspberry Canes. My plants are
attat-ked with what appears to be a kind of scale.
What is the remedy?— Mrs. M. A. P.. 3Iiss.
1.933. Protecting Paths Against Wash-outs. How
can I best keep my drives and paths, from house to
street on a slope, and in S shape, from being washed
out by heavy rains?— A. C. C.
1.934. Apple Twig Blight. What is the cause, and
do you know any remedy? Will it finally kill the tree
where severe?
1.935. Blackberry Rust. What can I do for the
Orange rust? Will it do to set new plantations with
roots taken from an affected paU'h?— w. F. Ritchie.
1.936. Dolichos Species. Please tell me the botanical
name of a Dolichos. a hard wood climber with scarlet
nanicles of flowers, apparantly hardy.— G. L. C,
Warren, R. I.
1.937. Treatment of Perennials alter Blooming. Is
It good policy to cut them down? Columbines for in-
stance are a nuisance after blooming-- G. L. C,
1.933. Bulb growing at the South. What chances of
financial success would 1 have going south to engage
In growing bulbs? What kinds promise best, and how
managed?— F. V. B., Chicago.
1.939. Thorn Apple, is this the same as Hawthorn?
1.940. Wild Crab Apple as Stock- Can it be used
for improved Crab an<l other varieties?
1.941. Anglers Quince. What is the distinguishing
form of the leaf?— Dou.sman, Wis.
1.942. Curl Leaf of Peach. Leaves all rolled up into
balls and discolored. What is the matter with them?
J. C. H., Ontario.
1.943. Remedy for Rose Chafer, Pyrethrum only
paralyses but does not kill them. Do you know a bet-
ter remedy? E.n.W., Linlithgo, N. Y.
1.944. Mildew on Gooseberries. Is there any rem-
edy?—Carlton, Ohio.
1.945. Growing Palm Seedlings. How should I
proceed?— AMATEUR, Pittsburgh, Pa.
1.946. Liquid Manure for Chrysanthemums. Will
flowers be larger if manure water is applied freely?—
J. S. T.. New Jersey.
1.947. Substitute for Glass in Hot-bed Making.
Where cau it be bought?— P. M.. Salineville, O.
1,94S. Long Standing Summer Spinach Is it bet-
ter than tlie ordinary Round Leaf?—T. F.S.,^^^ York.
1.949. Canning Green Corn and Peas. How put
up In glass lars so to keep we!l and not burst cans?— G
H. B., Edsallville, Pa.
1.950. Insect Destroying Golden Arbor Vitae. Not
a green leaf left. What Insect is It and what can I do
for It?— Mrs. R. W. P., Macon, Miss.
1.951. Rose-Leaf Hopper. What cau be done for
It?— J. L. T., Hagerstown. Ind.
1,932. Spirsea Varieties. What are the best varie-
ties, both of the shrubhy and the herbaceous Splneas?
Give color and time of bloom, etc.— T.H.E., Geneva, III.
1.953. Daphnes and Deutzias. Please give list and
description of varieties?— T. H. E.
1.954. Planting Clematis Jackmanii. When is the
best time for it in Autumn? Should roots be spread
out or planted vertically?- W. S. J., Chicago, III.
1.955. Cherry and Fay's Currants. What are the
distinguishing characteristics of ihe two?— M. N. O..
Rhode Island.
1.956. Preventive for Potato Diseases. Can the
ammoulariil carbonate of copper solution be depended
ui>on t^> be as efl^ective as the Bordeaux mixture?—
G. N.. Philadelphia.
1.957. Worden Grape. Is it a good enough shipper
to grow for a market liW miles distant?- N. M. T.
1.958. Melon Blight. Can you give a remedy or
preventative?— Old sub.
1.959. Depth of Planting Potatoes. What depth
gives best results?— D. D. F., New Jersey.
1.960. List of Ornamental Plants. Please name the
10 most showv hardy shrubs, and best 24 Roses for front
yard? Soli rich, san4ly loam.
1,961. Tea Roses in Texas. Will they succeed here
in open ground?
l,9tii. Rhododendrons in Texas. Tf suitable for
open ground culture here, what soil and treatment
should be given to them?— Mrs. K. A. H.. Texas.
1.963. Fuller's Rose Beetle. Name best way of
preventing Its attacks.— G. N., Mich.
1.964. Eradicating Purslane, How best done?
Our gardens are overrun with it.— R. A. C, MW/anrf.
Chit.
1.965. An Ailing Garden. Soon after I begun my
garden six years ago, I could raise fine vegetables and
plants, now they come poor and the former are
apt to be infested with Insects and scab. I have
raised carrots weighing three pounds each. My neigh-
bors will have it that I am too liberal with manure.
The soil is black and has beendeeply trenched.— M. G.,
Duchess Co., N. Y.
1.966. Fuchsia Buds Dropping. All during recent
weeks my Fuchsia plant seemed healthy, but when the
buds were on the eve of opening they would drop.
What was the cause?— Ella P. Worth, Miami Co, O.
1.967. Weeds in Gravel Walks. How are they best
kept down?
1.968. Ants in the Garden. What is the best reme-
dy?—C. C. G.. Tioga Co., Pa.
1.969. Forcing Rhubarb. What course is recommend-
ed for this, where a cold frame is used with a view to
hasten the crop by some weeks? — H. M.. Elizabeth, N.J.
REPLIES TO INQUIRIES.
1,896. Soil for India Eubber Plant. Almost
any good soil will do for the plant, but the best
compost is probably one composed of three
parts turfy-loam, one part of leaf -mold or rotten
cow-manure, and plenty of silver or washed
river sand. The pot or pots should he well-
drained, as the plant requires an abundance of
water when in active growth.— Ex.
],»9.3. Quality of Sweet Corn. We have not
the least doubt that this is greatly influenced by
soil and climate. Sandy soil and a long warm
season gives us boiling ears vastly richer and
sweeter than clay soil and a cold season. We
have always considered Blaclc Me.xican the
sweetest and richest of all the varieties with
which we are acquainted; but the Stowell's
Evergreen, as we grew it on sandy loam in New
Jersey seemed to be superior to even this justly
celebrated colored Corn as we produced it on
cold clay loam in Western New York.— U. R.
l,8fls. Asparagus Varieties, There are quite
a number of newer varieties, as for instance the
Palmetto, Philadelphia ( or Harr's > Mammoth,
Eclipse, Giant, etc. None of these, however,
have been sufiBciently tested to be ranked accord-
ing to their real merits. The introducers claim
great things for them ; but pre\nous experience
with "improved" varieties of Asparagus leads
us to be not over-sanguine in regard to any of
the newer kinds. Colossal we know to be good
and reliable. The near future will disclose what
there is about the others.
1 844 Kooting Carnations. We would expect
Carnation cuttings to damp off as yours do, if
the heat in the propagating bed is too high or
the air too close, or il the cuttings are too soft
when put in. The most favorable condition for
rooting Carnations is to start with vigorous
young cuttings from plants in health and grown
moderately cool, say in a temperature not to ex-
ceed 50 degrees at night. They should be put
into sand having bottom heat not exceeding 60°,
be kept well watered, and provided with shade
and a moderate amount of air for keeping the
apartment cool and moist. By doing the propa-
gating in Feb. under such conditions the failure
from damping off should not be five per cent.
1,8.52. Orape Oeraninm. The writer is not
familar with any plant of this name. If the
flowers as you say are like those of Begonia the
plant certainly can be no (ieranium, and un-
doubtedly is some Begonia.
1,862. Carnations for Winter Bloom. Soil of a
light loamy nature suits the Carnation the best
where winter flowers is the object. The plant is
impatient of a wet soil. As to temperature that
suited to ordinary greenhouse plants and ranging
from 45 to 5.5 degrees at night is the most favor-
able. The Carnation delights in a cool pure air
secured by proper ventilation, and detests close,
damp, dark quarters.
1,943. Bemedy for Bose Chafer. There is no
better remedy kn<jwn than l>uhach, and this if
applied thoroughly, should not only paralyze
but kill. The best way is to put a tablespoonful
in a bucket of water, and spray this upon the in-
fested bushes. Among other remedies often re-
sorted to, are gathering by hand ; knocking oil'
on a sheet early in the morning ; eau celeste.
The bug prefers Clinton Grapes to most any-
thing else, and these may l>e planted as decoys.
1,947. Substitute for Glass in Hotbed Making,
By all means use glass. The " stulf used in stove
doors" is mica, but we never heard of it Ix'ing
used for the purpose named by you. tilled mus-
lin has been much used as a substitute for glass
in cold frames; but it has never in our practice
seemed to fill the jilace of glass e\'eti for c()ld
frames, and we arc sure we do not want it for
hotbeds.-G. B.
1.945. Growing Palm Seedlings. Good fresh
seed is. of course, the first thing needed, and not
always easy to procure, on account of its liability
to lose its vitality during the long voyage from
the home of the Palm. Some Palm seeds, if
planted while fresh, germinate readily ; among
them A7rc i lutei<c€Jiii, one of the most useful of
Palms, Latania Bnrbon 'ca {Livistonia Chinensis)
and Cucos WethleUiDia. Others, amongthem the
Kentias, may take six or eight months for the
process of germination, W. H. Taplin gives in
Garden and Forest the following directions for
raising the seedlings : The soil for Palm seeds
should be rather lighter in composition than that
in which established plants are grown, and may
consist of equal portions of peat and light loam,
with sand enough to make the mixture open and
easy to drain, the latter point being worthy of
attention, for when the soil is allowed to become
too wet many of the seeds are sure to rot. The
seeds may be planted in either pots, pans or
wooden boxes, an objection to the latter being
their liability to breed fungus, the earthenware
vessels being therefore found the most satis-
factory, and for convenience four to six inch
pots are preferable. As a steady bottom-heat is
essential for the rapid germination of Palm-
seeds, the pots containing them should be placed
in the propagating house or some similar struct-
ure, and plunged in Cocoa-flbre or coal-ashes,
the Cocoa-fibre being the better conductor of
heat of the two, and also cleaner to handle.
Care should be given to watering, to keep the
soil damp without making it sodden, until the
seedlings have des'eloped their first leaves, after
wiiich water may be given much more freely
without injury to the plants. As to the time for
potting off, it will be found best with most
species to wait until the second leaf begins to
push up, but with some of the free-growing
sorts, such as Arcca luiescens and Livistonia
Chinensis, it is not necessary to prolong the time
to this extent, and plants may be potted as soon
as the first leaf is fully expanded ; but they
should in any case be kept in a warm house and
shaded from the .direct sunlight until they are
well established.
1,935. Orange Bust of Blackberry. There is
only one thing that cau be done for it, and that
is to promptly dig out and burn every cane
showing signs of the disease.
1,944. mildew on Gooseberries. The only thing
found yet, thus far, that has seemed to put a
check to the disease, is spraying with potassium
sulphide at intervals of ten days or two weeks all
during the season.
1.946. Liquid Manure for Chrysanthemums.
It is hardly necessary to assist well grown and
vigorous plants in this way until they are well
established in the pots in which they are to
flower, and these pots well filled with roots.
But it is of great importance to have the plants
in fullest health and vigor as the blooming sea-
on approaches ; and the judicious applications
of manure water then may greatly aid the full
and perfect development of the exhibition
flowers. A few weak applications may be made
even before the buds nave appeared. Some
growers only apply manure water after that
time. As soon as the flower buds are set, weak
manure water may be api>lied at every alternate
watering, and it is best to vary it. For one week
guano-water may be used ; another series of ap-
plications may be of diluted farmyard manure,
and, if possible, the liquid should be clear.
Always err on the side of its being too weak
rather than too strong.
1.950. Insect Destroying Golden Arbor vitae.
Inquirers should always give either the name or
a description of the insect for which they ask us
to name remedies. Whenever an insect is found
to do damage, some etforts should at once be
made to fight it. If it cannot be done by hand
picking, or mechanical devices, applications of
the more common insect poisons sliould be tried
at once. All leaf-eaters can usually be dis-
posed <ilV liy siiraying the infested plants or trees
with weak I'aiis gi'cen water. Sometimes the
keniseiu'eniulsioii. Tobacco water, or solution of
Hellebore, api'licd in s|)ray, will prove effective.
Or carbolizod phisler or lime may help In short
try one or the i it her, or rather one after the
other of these remedies.— G. R.
1.951. Bose Leaf Hopper. This is a very com-
mon, and well known pest, which appears early
in May, and has one or more broods later in the
season. It may be recognized by its yellowish
white body, white transparent wings, and brown
eyes, claws and ovipositor. Its length is about
three-twentieths of an inch. As it lives on the
juices of the leaf only, ]>oisons will be of no
avail Bubach will kill it, and so will the kero-
sene emulsion. The insect should be fought at
its first appearance in the month of May, when
it is more sensitive to applications, and would
probably sut^cumb of Tobacco water and whale-
oil soapsuds. Later, its wings are a protection
from washes and powders, and a means for its
quickly escaping from the powder-bellows orthe
sprayer. With the first brood destroyed, but
slight harm could result fr()m later ones.
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
245
1,988. Bordsanx Mixture. The formula for
preparing this is as follows: In an earthen ves-
sel dissolve ri pounds of copper sulphate iu water ;
in another vessel slake i> pounds of lime. Mix the
two solutions, and when ready tor use, dilute
with 'ii gallons of water. This is sprayed on the
Grape vines, the tirst application to be made Just
as soon as the leaves have started in spring, and
others at intervals of ten days or two weeks
through the season. The great objection to
late applications is that the lime of the mixture
adheres to the fruit and often tiadly spots and
discolors it so that it may l)e necessary to dip the
bunches into acidulated water (water anil
strong \nnegar.l To meet this objection, the
ammoniacal carlwnate of copper solution may
be substitute*! for the Bordeaux mixture in the
later applications. This solution is cheap and
easily prepared. IDissolve 3 ounces of carbo-
nate" of copper in one quart of ammonia (24°
Baume) and dilute with S gallons of water.
Prof. Galloway also advises to try this solution
in place of Bortleaux mixture in all applications,
making the first spraying when the Howers are
opening, and the others at the usual intervals.
Former experiments had lead him to believe that
in ordinary seasons this solution will prove as
elfective ais the Bordeaux mixture, and its ad-
vantages over the latter are (1) ease of prepar-
ation and application, (2i cheapness, and ri) its
proi>erty of not spotting the fruit. The chief
troublewith it is that tlie average druggists do
not keep the carbonate of copper in stock, and
will have to order it from some wholesale house.
It should not cost more than about 6.5 cents per
pound at retail.
1,931. Value of Wood Ashes. Good unleached
wood ashes have a fertilzing value of from $10
to 515 per ton. If you have engaged a car for
moving your goods, and consequently will be to
no great expense in moving your wood ashes, it
will certainly pay you to do so.
1,906. Seaion of Btldding. in a general way we
will say that budding can be done at any time
when the stock is making vigorous growth, so
that the bark peels readily, and when good buds
can be had.
1,8T6. Japan Honeysuckle. Evidently the root
suffered some injury during the winter that
should have caused the plant to die in the spring.
If as in western New York, the soil was very
wet in the fall, the root may have received in
jury in the way for being unprepared to stand
freezing. It is not invariably the coldest win-
ters that are the most serious. — A. H. E.
1,870. Foinsettia in Tree Form. There is no
disadvantage in growing this plant to a tree
form, indeed it is its most natural form. Still
we would not recommend a very long trunk
say not l>eyond a length to make the tree from
two to four feet high. Thus we would cut
back the growth freely every year depending an
new growth for the top and bloom each season.
1.990. Propagating Choice Strawherry Vari-
eties. Plants are set as early in .spring as the
ground can be worked in rows 8 to 10 feet apart
and 2 feet apart in the rows. In a day or two
the soil is stirred around the plants with a rake
or hoe ; so as to break the crust and destroy the
germinating weed seeds. Strawberry plants ap-
preciate good culture and to obtain the best re-
sults they should be stirred every day. To
obtain the most rapid growth use nitrate of
soda, a spoonful to a plant scattered around the
hill We have been very successful with barn-
yard scrapings, putting it on an inch deep all
over the surface. Liquid manure in dr> weather
is best of all : but be careful that it is not too
strong. Cut off the first runners that appear to
give stockiuess to the plant. The runners
that are allowed to grow should be held in place
by a stone or a little earth till well rooted. In
order that the young runner may root readily it
is verv important that the soil be kept mellow by
frequent stirring. By the above method we
were able last year to grow 500 plants from 5
parent plants that had been taken up in Kan-
sas after the fruit was set and shipped to X. Y.
by mail. I believe I could grow ICKJI plants from
one single setting of the Cloud variety.— i. J.
Farmer , S 1'.
1,8.39. Crops Among Frnit. -\11 kinds of an-
nual vegetable crops may be grown among
Grapes, Blackberries and Raspberries. On a
pinch, a row of early Potatoes, Peas or Beans
might be grown between the Strawberries and
renewed before the plants begin to run. We
plant Potatoes between the Raspberries and
Blackberries the first year. Afterwards the
Berry plants take all the room. Berries may be
grown in the young orchard with good results.
Don't plant Strawberries among Raspberries or
Blackberries, as the frequent cultivation that
would be necessary for the Raspberries, etc.
would be detrimental to the Strawberries when
ripening, and if no cultivation is given to the
Blackberries, etc, their growth is seriously re-
tarded and the ground gets full of weeds. Then
two things must be looked to in succotash treat-
ment of crops. There must be more fertilizer ap-
plied, and of course more hand lab(jr ; but it will
pay where land is dear.— i. J. Farmer.
1,734. Treatment of Berry Plants. When
plants and vines are received from the nui-sery
they shouUf Ix" immediately opened and taken
from the package. Keep from wind and sun
as either will destroy the Hue rootlets in a few
moments. Plants that are not to be set the next
day, should tx; heeled in. Plow a furrow long
enough to hold all the plants, being careful that
the land side is kept straight. Break open the
bunches of Strawberry plants and spread them
out up against the land side ; so that all the roots
will come in contact with the soil. Draw the
soil up around the roots and give it a good fir-
ming. Water when necessary Raspberry tips
should be treated likewise. If the bunches are
heeled in without being broken open, all but the
outside plants will rot . Red Raspberries, Black-
berries and Grape vines may be set in the center
of the trench about 3 inches apart and earth
hauled around them from both sides. It is a
good plan to have plants come early and heel
them in. Then when we are ready to plant we
can tell better what will grow and be more sure
of an even stand.— I,. J. Farmer.
1,714. Propagating Blackberries. Blackberries
are propagated from root cuttings by cutting
the roots into pieces about 3 inches long in
autumn or early spring. These cuttings are
sown in rows about 3 inches deep. If done in
autumn the cuttings had better be kept till
spring packed in earth or damp moss. Another
way IS to take a sharp spade or shovel and cut
circles about 6 inches from each other all around
the parent plant as far as its roots extend.
Every piece of root will produce a plant. Black-
berries proper are not propagated from the tops.
The running Blackberry or Dewberry, propa-
gates from the tips early in the autumn same
as black Raspberries, .is soon as the Dewberry
cane begins to swell, burj* the end in soil about
2 inches.— I/. J. Farmer.
1,766. Applying Wood Ashes. In applying
wood ashes or any fertilizer of an alkaline nature
one should be careful that the Strawberry leaves
are perfectly free from dew or rain. The ashes
should be sifted on the plants when dry. Just
before a heavy I'ain is the best time. What
lodges on the foliage may be swept off with a
broom. We nearly destroyed a tine patch of
Eurekas last summer by not brushing off the
superphosphate that lodges on the foliage, be-
fore a heavy dew.— i. J. Farmer.
1,833. Plnm Tree Suckers. My neighbors dig
up the suckers t&at spring up around the bear-
ing trees and set them out, same as trees from a
nursery. They bear the same fruit as the parent
tree and lots of it.— i. J. Farmer.
1,877. Blackberry Suckers. Blackberries will
produce suckers anyway. The less the ground
is plowed and cultivated deep, the fewer the
suckers. Mulch and shallow cultivation is a
partial preventive. When the green shoots come
up, cut off, same as weeds, all except those you
wish to grow into canes for bearing fruit next
year.— L. J. Farmer.
L,915. Cactus Culture, Cacti will bloom every
year if given a complete rest from the latter
part of December until April. Place on a shelf
away from the light where the temperature does
not fall below 35°; withold water until each plant
shows signs of growing. As they make small
root growth, small pots are best. Give rich soil
with at least one half sand and keep growing
through the summer. Autumn and spring
flowering varieties should be treated alike.—
Mrs. B. L. P.
1,936. DoUchos Species, The species usually
found in cultivation is 1). Uffuosens (woody 1; the
flowers are rose-colored, with a purplish keel,
umbellate; leaflets, ovate, acute, smooth-
glaucous beneath ;;stem, woody; branches, twin-
ing, rather villous. The species in your pos-
session, however, may be D. hieo)itortus itwice
twisted). Its Bowers are white and purple, sus-
pended on long peduncles, leaves, trifoliate, on
long petioles. This half hardy climber was
brought from Japan in 1869.
1,914. Cactus Culttire— Treating for Bloom.
The culture of this family is very simple, namely
the plants should have a protracted rest during
the fall and winter by withholding water almost
wholly, and then providing water freely during
the season of growth and bloom. They prefer
a light, sandy soil and rather small pots.
1,917. Dwarf Bed-flowering Horse Chestnut.
You will find this variety offered in the catalogue
of Parsons & Son's Company, Flushing, N. Y ,
under the name of Aei^culug hippoca^anum rit-
hicunda nova.
l.HS.'i. Columbine Flowers Double. The cause
of the flowers growing more double as years go
on is that as the growth increases the vitality of
the plant is slightly reduced by the crowding of
the roots and shoots.a condition that tends to in-
crease the doubleness of the bloom. Divide and
reset the roots into fresh soil next October or
April, and with the more vigorous growth that
will follow, the flowers will again assume a
larger and more single form.
l.itis. Bulb Growing at the South Undoubt-
edly there arc chances, here and there at the
South, to make a living by growing flowering
bulbs for sccdmen and florists at the North.
But It looks to us dijcidedly risky, to say the
least, for anyone not an expert in the production,
use and sale of such produce, to start for the
sunny South with the hope of making a living
out of the business. This is a trade that has to
be learned and studied. An acquaintance of the
writer, a good florist too, some years ago. en-
gage^l in growing Tuberose bulbs and flowers by
the acre in the southern part of Virginia, but he
found trouble in selling his crops at remunera-
tive prices, and has abandoned the business. We
shaU be glad, however, to receive further in-
formation on this subject by our southern
friends and readers.
1,942. Ctirl Leaf of Peach. This disease, with
which the trees of (.lur inquirer were affected,
like almost all trees we have seen this season, is
produced by a parasitic fungus which develops
its spores in minute sacks in the swollen and
distorted parts of the leaf. This fungus is
konwn as Ascomye^ defininaus. or more recently
as Exoa-fcuit deformau.f. It always appears early
in the season, and usually the diseased leaves
drop after a tew weeks. The disease can not
well be otherwise than an injury to the tree, but
it is not a fatal one. There is no known remedy ;
but the attacks may possible be prevented by
judicious pruning, through cultivation, and
liberal maining, especially with potash.
1,965. An Ailing Oaiden. It is more than
likely that you have overdosed your garden with
foul animal manure. I would advise you to
place no animal manure on your garden for at
least two years. Instead of that I would rec-
commend covering the soil with a dressing of
fresh lime, and turn it into your ground, at least
two spades deep. A Carrot, three pounds in
weight, is all very well to grow for exhibition
or for a horse to eat, but is quite unfitted for
anyone to eat who values the clean, sweet flavor
of a vegetable. Small, sweet vegetables, fit for
the table, is what should be aimed at, and these
you cannot produce if you use foul animal
manure. Y'ou should manure with leaves and
lime, not gas lime, and trench deeply.— A. H. E.
1,892. Plants Flowering in Hay. The time of
bloom of the following named flowers is about
that of Memorial Day, varying accordingly as
the season is earlier or later, H.\rdy Flowers
Garland Flower I Daphne Vreoumn>; Double
Hoc^etAHe^peris matrionalisfl.pl.); Early Irises,
Lychins viscaria.Virginian Lungwort [Mentemsia
Virginica); Creeping Phloxes, May Apple or
Mandrake, Greek Valerian, {Polemimium); Early
Crowfoot or Buttercup, Speedwell, ( Teroiica 1;
boronicum caucasium. Bleeding Heart, iD/cen-
tra speetablis]; Pa"onies, LUy-of-the- Valley,
Pansies, Daises, Shrubs. Three Pa?ony. Lilacs,
Bush Honeysuckle, Rough-leaved and Lantan-
leaved Viburnums, Plum-leaved Spira?a Thun-
berg's Soir-.ea, Flowering Almond. Tulips:
Y'ellow Rose, Pieony Gold, Parrot, Roses, Bi-
zarres. La Candeur Marriage de ma Fille, By-
looms, etc.
1,919. Pomegranate not Blooming. The fact
that you comment upon the vigorous condition
of your plant which does not bloom, would indi-
cate that the tendency is too much towards
growth of wood, this being caused perhaps by
having more and richer soil than is desirable for
promoting bloom Very likely if you were to
defer shifting into a larger box or pot until fully
a year later a crop of bloom would set in the
intervening time The plant is a lover of sun-
shine, being very suitable for lawn or veranda
decoration in the summer. It requires the pro-
tection of a cool greenhouse or cellar during the
winter.
1,918. Buffalo Berry. This shrub Shepherdia
argentca) is seldom found in the nurseries. The
firm of Gillett & Horsford, Southwick, Mass.,
pay much attention to the cultivation of native
plants and shrubs, and it is possible that they
could furnish the one referred to. Another
species Shci>herdia canadensis, is mentioned in
their catalogue.
1,911. Deutzia crenata not blooming. It is
possible that the soil is too rich for your plant or
else that it stands too much in the shade, both of
which causes might be suflBcient to hinder bloom.
In our own grounds this shrub has always
flowered freely.
1,954. Planting Clematis Jackmanii. We pre-
fer planting in the spring before new shoots
start up. As good a position as any for the roots
in planting is to make a crown of earth in the
hole with its highest part but a little below the
surface of the surrounding soil. Over the crown
spread the roots evenly in all directions and
cover with soil, firming it down well. The
hybrid Clematises are impatient of a wet soil,
1,9.')7. Worden Grape. Most growers consider
this a rather poor shipper, and having a tendency
to drop the berries from the stem. It ships quite
well, however, if picked as soon as fully colored.
284
POPULAR GARDENING.
August,
1,836. Soil Best Salted for Bulb Culture. This
is such as has been stacked for several months
so that the grass has become decayed. Use two
parts of such to one part well-decayed cow-
manure, with plenty of sand to make the whole
porous. A small portion of sand should be
placed at the base of each bulb when planted.—
E. O. Orpet.
1,841. Tariff on Seeda. There is no tariff on
flower seeds so far as our experience goes. We
annually import large quantities of seeds of
perennials from all parts of Europe through the
malls and have never had duty to pay.— E. O. O.
1,946. Moon Influence. The sooner all super-
stitions relative to the moon influence on garden
operations are dispelled, the better it will be for
the cause of Horticultural. There is no necessity
to consider the moon before doing anything
that wants doing.— E. O. Orpet.
1,8.50. Names of Flowers. Eglantine is the
poetical name for Rosa i-ubiginosa, also known
as "Sweet Briar" and can be obtained at any
good nursery. "Golden Buttons" is probably
the double form of the Buttercup, Ranunculus
acris fl. pi. It grows two to three feet high; if
dwarf it is probably R. speciosus fi. pi. which has
larger flowers and very double. Both are first-
class hardy perennials. E. O. Orpet.
1,96:{. Fuller's Bose Beetle. This insect, named
in honor of A. S. Fuller, who first noticed it as a
foe to Koses, is 3-10 of an inch long, dark-gray in
color, dotted with white, and hides by day in the
axils of the leaves or in some other
place of concealment. When it is
jarred, it drops quickly to the earth,
like many other beetles, and from its
close mimicry in color of the earth, it
is quite likely to escape notice. The
female lays her small yellow eggs in
clusters at the base of the plants, and
the larvas or grubs feed on the roots.
So far as observed, says Prof. A.J. Cook
of the Michigan Agricultural College,
it has done no appreciable damage in
the grub or larva state, but has been a
serious annoyance as a mature beetle.
It feeds on the foliage, and has defolia-
ted seriously the following kinds of
plants: Ferns, Palms, India-rubber,
Laurel, Accacia, Lemon, Orange, Cassia,
Draca'na, Oleander, Camellia, Habro-
thamnus and Pittosp(>rura. It feeds on
the plants at night all through the
winter. It eats from the edge of the
leaves and rarely cuts them up. We
believe that with us the insect does not
injure the Roses. The facts seem to argue
that the larva- must work on the roots of
some plants other than Roses. As they
seem much more abundant in the Palm, Fern
and Ficus room, I have surmised that they might
feed on the roc'ts, possibly, of some of these
plants, though I have no positive proof that
such is the case. The advice given by Mr.
Henderson to catch and destroy the mature
beetle is excellent. By carefully noting its habit
of hiding, it is not hard to find it. It usually
stays close in the axii of a leaf, or between the
stems at the base, bj' the earth, or between a
stem and its sheath. Frequently we can avail
ourselves of its habit of dropping when jarred,
and vii uKiy ([uickly discover it and pick it up
from the earth. The fact that the beetle hides
so carefully, may lead to its non-detrcticni by
thegardener. Hesees his plants mutilatid, Imt
does not discover the cause. Close obseivutiun
will detect the culprit.
1,860. Cinerarias. To bloom in February or
March, seed should be sown at once, and the
plants when large enough, be planted singly in
thumb pots in good loam two parts, sand one
part, and leaf-soil sifted one part. When the
pots are full of roots the plants should be trans-
ferred to five-inch pots, using soil similar to the
above, but with the addition of one part well-
decayed cow manure. The plants should have
their final potting into 7 or 8-inch pots in Novem-
ber, and it the plants are grown in cold frames
until the arrival of frost, and fumigated lightly
every two weeks {preventive rather than cura-
tive,! their greatest enemy, green fly, will not
trouble them, and the plants may be placed in a
cool green house in fall and will flower beauti-
fully in the early spring months. The two
firinciple points to be kept in view, are, never to
et them become pot-bound until finally potted,
and to keep them as cool as possible without
their coming in contact wilth frost.— E. O. Opet.
1,854. Book on Orchids. The cheapest and
best book on < trchids for amateurs is the "Orchid
' Manual" by B. .S. Williams. Although the cul-
tural matter is meant to apply to English
Gardens, it can in most cases oe modified by
the cultivator to suit his own ]>eculiur roiiiire-
ments. The book has full cultural directions t()
the growth of nearly all Orchids in culti\ution,
it having been recently revised and brought to
date. Cost in the L^nited States probablj- about
85.00.-E. O. O.
1,921. ThripB on Strawberries. We do not
exactly know to which insect our inquirer
refers. The Grapevine leaf-hopper, an insect
often quite troublesome to Grape-vines, espec-
ially to Clinton, Delaware, and other thin-leaved
varieties, is commonly known among grape-
growers as the "Thrip." As this lives only on
the juices of the leaf, it is difflcult to deal
with. Syringing with strong Tobacco water, or
with the kerosene and soap emulsion are probab-
ly the most efBcient remedies. Carrying lighted
torches through the \'1neyard at night, at the
same time disturbing the foliage with a stick, t^^
induce the insects to fly into the light and get
burned is also recommended. As a preventive
the ground in the neighborhood of the vines
should be kept thoroughly clean, and be several
times raked or disturbed late in the autumn, and
early in the spring, so as toexpose any concealed
insects to the killing influence of frost. Some-
times these leaf-hoppers are quite abundant in a
vine yard one season, and ijuite scarce the next.
Perhaps the insects infesting our friends .Straw-
berries is the leaf roller. Whatever it is, a good
way to get rid of it, is to mow the patch as soon
as possible after fruiting, on the morning of a
hot day, and at night or next day set Are to the
mowings.— G. K.
1,964. Eradicating Purslane. There is hardly
a more persistent weed in rich garden soil than
purslane, a near relative of our annual garden
flower, the Portulacca. A large plant, pulled up
and thrown down upon the ground, even in the
hottest day, will usually continue to produce.
and before the fire could be extinguished,
several rods of the hedge was totally de-
stroyed. The heat created was sufficient to
seriously damage some fine shade-trees
that were standing near. Last October,
while visiting the orchards of Mr. A. G.
Tuttle, I saw several fine groups of Ever-
greens on his grounds suffer total destruc-
tion from fire through the ignorance and
carelessness of some of his men who had
been instructed to burn some brush in the
vicinity. The fire run through the partially
dried grass that covered the ground about
the trees, and as it approached their trunks,
the dry needles beneath the trees, being
resinous, burned so vigorously that the
lower branches were ignited, and in a mo-
ment the Are crept up the trunk to the top
of the tree, where tongues of flame rose
higher than the tallest shoots. Whole
groups of Norway Spruces, Balsam Firs and
Scotch Pines, nearly or quite twenty feet in
height, were destroyed in a moment by a
roaring conflagration.
MR. STAHL'S PLAN OF TRELLISING TOMATOES.
ripen and scatter its numerous seeds. Small
plants can easily be killed by cultivation; but
when allowed to become large, they shcmid not
only be carefully pulled up, but also gathere<l
at once, and piled up in heaps with soil on top,
to rot, or better be removed from the garden
and given to pigs or poultry.
1,966. Fuchsia Buds Dropping. This is caused
by a want of vigour, and rarely happens to plants
liberally grown in a light airy greenhouse. It
only occurs with us in the case of some of the
double white kinds which have element of weak-
ness in them. The remedy lies in giving plenty
of air night and day, ;so as to strengthen the
wood and foliage. Plants grown in windows are
most liable to cast their buds, owing to the con-
lini'iufot. When this happens, and the weather
is warm, put the plants in the open air in a shel-
tered, not too sunny, place. Water only when
dry, and if they are root-bound, top-dress with
some concentrated manure, or water with soot.
or guano water twice a week. This will soon
give them strength enough to open their flowers.
When in a root-bound state. Fuchsias want a lot
of nourishment. Very often window gardeners
do not prune back their plants in spring, so that
they make a weakly growth inciipablcjof the
production of good blooms. They siiould be cut
back in February, leaving only two eyes of the
previous season's growth, and quite cutting away
all very weakly growths. Then they start strong-
ly, and if shaken out of the old soil and repotted
when the young shoots are an inch in length
they form stout tlower-bearing branches.— A. E.
Evergreens Endangered by Fire.
Among the dangers that beset Evergreen
trees and hedges that from fire set by care-
less hands in a dry time during spring,
summer or fall, is not the least. Prof. Goff'
of the University of Wisconsin has recently
had occasion to observe several instances of
Evergreen trees being entirely ruined by
such me.ans.
I^ast spring, he tells in Garden and Forest,
a fine Norway Spruce hedge on the farm of
the Wisconsin Agricultural Experiment
Station was accidentally set on fire from a
mass of burning leaves in the neighborhood,
How to Train Tomatoes.
Growing Tomatoes for the canning fac-
tories at -r^ti.dO to .*8.00 per ton excludes even
the possibility of profitable trellis-
ing. The grower for market, who
receives from .*1.0ll upwards per
bushel, may find it advisable to put
at least some brush or litter of
some kind around his vines, in or-
der to keep the fruit from contact
with the .soil. Perhaps it may even
pay him to put up a simple trellis
such as shown in fig. 1. This metii-
od was suggested to us by Mr. ,Iohn
M. .Stahl, who believed that trellis-
ing a patch in this manner will in-
crease the amount of crop to the
full extent of paying for material
and erection of trellis, while the
better quality of the fruit resulting
from such treatment, will be clear
gain. The trellis consists simply
of a row of stakes, at a resonable
apart, on each side of the row of plants, and
strands of wire strung along the posts, at
say eight inches apart from each other. A
more detailed description was furnished us
by Mr. Stahl, but our printers, unfortunately
have lost or mislaid the mantiscript.
One of the state experiment stations re-
ports satisfactory results from the use of a
trellis put up like the one described with
this exception, that pieces of six-inch board
in single Hue, were substituted for the pots,
and the wires stappled to the edges on each
side.
The home gardener can well afford to put
up some sort of trellis for his comparatively
few plants, even it he did not expect any
other advantage from it but the greater
attractiveness and neatness of the patch.
Ahything that adds renewed interest to the
garden is a great gain.
A simple way of treating Tomato vines is
to train them to a single pole or stake, say
eight feet high, and keep the plants trimmed
to single stem. Soft bands should be used
for tying, and particular attention paid to
give the fruit-clusters some support by
tying to the stake. The plants need not be
more than three feet apart in the row.
When in full growth, and loaded with fruit
in all stages of development, a row of
Tomato plants thus trained will always
attract attention, and may prove one of the
" sights " of the garden.
Other simple styles of trellis are shown
in flg. 3 and 3. The former is made by
setting three stakes, five or six feet high,
in a circle around each plant, and fastening
a few barrel hoops to them as shown in en-
graving. The other consists of two uprights,
and three or four cross sticks or slats nailed
to them. There are many other ways of
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
247
n\akinK simple trellises; and the gardener
may use whatever his own fancy or ingenu-
ity may dictate.
National Registration of Plants.
A law to secure exclusive propagation
and sale rights, for a cert^iin length of time,
to oriRnators of new plants, etc., is at pres-
ent the subject of thought, study and di.s-
cussion. We fear that the plans now pro-
posed and which embrace an elaborate clas-
sification of species and their varieties, to-
Ti'inato Treltli made of Slata and Honps.
gether with illustrations and descriptions,
and tests by the State Experiment Stations
are much too complicated to give us prac-
tical results.
That we are skeptical as to the utility of
any measures designed to protect orig-
inators of plants and varieties which are
based upon descriptions, illustrations and
tests we do not disguise. This is because
we know somewhat of the degree of un-
stability that prevails in the characteristics
of species and varieties. A mechanical in-
vention can be defined and illustrated so
accurately, that it may be identiUed beyond
a doubt wherever found, hence it may
readily be protected by letters patent. But
with a plant it is entirely otherwise. A
description or illustration that would accu-
rately fit a species or variety under one
condition of climate, altitude, soil and cul-
ture might not lit it at all under a thousand
others. All students of botany, who depend
upon printed descriptions— and such as are
made by the most skillful experts in descrip-
tion too — in determing species and varieties
know of the uncertainty that always
prevails in relying upon such descriptions.
The same thing is true of fruits as is seen
in the Smithsonian Institute collection of
fruit models, where are shown types of cer-
tain varieties, say the JEsopus Spitzenberg
Apple, as grown in the eastern states and per-
haps quite a different type of the same var-
iety asgrown in Missouri or Kansas. What
jury of experts familiar with the Ben
Davis Apple as known in Michigan, could
positively swear that certain specimens
raised in Arkansas were or were not the
same variety.
Such are a few of the obstacles in the way
of protecting owners of novelties by means
analogus to patenting inventions, that is by
depending upon descriptions and illustra-
tions. But there is another remedy and a
more practical one for attaining the same end
namely to make the name of the variety a
trademark as applying to the use or sale of
said variety. This, as was pointed out in
the discussion at the recent meeting of
nurserymen in New York, has been tried
with satisfactory results in a number of
instances. It is possible that the present
trade mark laws could be amended to adapt
them even more perfectly to the end sought,
A trade mark affords perfect protection
in the use of the name, thus shielded. By its
use, all that an originator of a valuable
variety the name of which has been thus
secured to him, would have to do for pro-
tection, would be to get up a large stock of
his novelty before commencing to put it out,
merely as a safe guard against the remote
possibility of some unscrupulous persons
buying largely of the stock and selling of
the same under some other name and de-
scription.
The Meeting of Nurserymen in Nevi?
York.
BY OUR STAFF CORltESPONDENT.
(Continued from page 210.)
Root-grafted and Budded Nubsert
Trees. Prof. L. H. Bailey, in his paper said
this whole subject might be divided into two
different parts, and discussed one as whole-
rooted trees, (grafting on whole roots) and
another as piece-rooted trees (grafting on
small pieces of roots) and again in regard
to budded trees. In England the piece-root
method of propagation is used to rather a
limited extent for ornamental trees mostly.
It allows us to make more trees from
our stocks, as you all know, it allows us
to double and sometimes quadrupple trees.
It sometimes cheapens, and it hastens mul-
tiplication, it allows deep setting, and is of
value especially in our great northwest,
where seedlings are apt to vary, and some
of these seedlings may be tender.
Mr. Albaugh of Ohio, said that in this
nursery there has not been a piece-root graft
for the last six years. Grafts grown upon
whole roots, these have been anything like
the failure of forinerly with piece-roots.
He advocated the use of roots, a fibrous
character. Stand them in the orchard so
that the union is under the surface.
Mr. Carpenter, of Nebraska, thought the
question was a sectional one. In his section
whole roots and budded trees are not a
success. The soil is too light and they are
subject to root freezing unless banked up.
The soil also is too rich, and they make too
strong a growth and run wild. He had
tested seedlings enough to know that (iO per
cent, would not stand Nebraska winters,
hence they take the piece roots every time,
and produce as good trees as eastern men
would dare to produce. They produced
more laterals, or side roots in his section,
and the trees were less subject to blowing
over. The tap root never supports the tree
from blowing over, but the side roots do.
Mr. Stark, of Missouri, had been growing
whole-root and piece-root trees for many
years, and the whole-root will mature
earlier than the piece-root and will average
from one-third larger, and they will make
much finer rooted trees. Piece-root trees
tend to throw out roots from oue side only,
and in the nursery row will twist over,
while the whole-root tree will stand straight
and make better trees for the orchard.
Mr. Thurlow, of Massachusetts, believed
that budded trees are better than grafted
trees. Borers find concealment better in a
graft than in a bud.
Mr. Albaugh ventured the statement that
in grafts as spoken of the point of union,
may have been above the ground, thus leav-
ing a place for the borers to work in.
In regard to covering the union lietween
the scion and the root, in grafting they
turn the root in a wooden spoon of hot wax,
covering over every part of the grafted por-
tion, below and above; they turn the graft
quickly, so that it will not only cover up the
union between the two, but will prevent
any water from getting under, eitlier below
or above.
Stock dug and shipped to early in the
FALL. Mr. G. E. Meissner, of Missouri, in his
valuable paper referred to the fact that
because the dealer is anxious to get
through with his fall deliveries while the
weather is fine, the nurseryman or grower
must gather his forces early. Men and boys
are put to work ruthlessly stripping the
foliage from trees, plants and vines, long
before the leaves have completed their func-
tions. The days of delivery have been set
commencing in the very beginning of Oc-
tober, often regardless of latitude or season,
so the nurseryman must commence his
work weeks in advance. The stock must be
dug, sorted, packed and shipped at a season
when the the mid-day sun is as hot and
burning as in August. The immature roots
exposed for hours or longer, and the unripe
soft wood may shrivel, but the agent is "on
time" with his delivery. He turns over his
stock, collects his money, settles up with
his employer or nurseryman who has
"packed" him, and is ready for the spring
campaign, arguing to himself that "fall
trade don't amount to much anyway."
Now look at the result for the planter.
He was perhaps told that "fall planting is
no good in this part of the country, " but
the agent soon persuaded him out of this
notion. What a disappointment when
spring and summer come! Quite a number
of the carefully planted trees will not grow
at all, others start out with a puny yellow-
ish growth, and finally die, and a few sur-
vive. After much time and money has
been spent, after much work and fretting,
the farmer has started a sickly plantation.
He has practically lost a year's'time besides
his money and labor. The consequence to
the trade in general from such proceedure is
a grower, popular prejudice against all fall
planting, bringing it into disregard, not to
say disrepute.
All of our best authorities in horticulture
tell us that fall is the best season for trans-
TomaU) Trellis made of ,s(a(s. See opimsite.
planting fruit and forest trees, shrubs and
vines. No authority that I know of, ad-
vises us to accomplish the "fall of the leaf "
by a savage tearing off of the foliage long
before nature has given the first signal that
the period of rest is at hand. The young,
white reotlets are still at work, leaves are
still converting the sap into nutrition, and
returning these to be stored away for new
leaf and growth, in the following spring.
248
POPULAR GARDENING.
August,
But the "tree dealer" has no time to wait
for them, and the grower must do the
dealer's bidding, or he will see the coveted
order go to somewhere else. The "tree but-
chers" are set to work,down come the leaves,
out or off come the tender, immature little
roots. The poor trees suffer, but who cares;
they are paid tor. When I see circulars,
announcing that trees will be ready for
shipping by Sept. 20th, from sections where
the first light frosts can hardly be expected
before the middle of October, or later, I
cannot help haying grave doubts as to the
success of stock, which must be dug a
month or more too soon in order to have it
ready for shipping by the time announced.
This abuse is growing worse from year to
year, and can ultimately only result in ruin-
ing our fall trade entirely.
Throughout the greater portion of our
country, fall is undoubtedly the best season
of the year for transplanting trees, shrubs
and vines. Aside from physiological reasons,
the soil is then generally in the best con-
dition, the planter has more time, and can
give better care to the planting than in busy
spring. The earth about the newly set trees
will become firmly settled by the late fall
rains and winter snows, the roots will be-
come established in the soil, the unavoidable
bruises will heal over, and when the first
warm spring rains come, long before the
ground has become sufficiently dry for
proper preparation of spring planting, your
fall set trees will grow and push into new
life and vigor, provided always that you
have furnished a tree, shrub or vine that
was properly matured, both top and root,
when taken from its bed in the nursery row.
Do not let us counteract the advantages of
fall planting by an undue haste, just be-
cause if we will not do it some other fellow
will. I beg to finish my remarks by sub-
mitting the following motion or resolution:
Whereas, the practice of shipping deciduous
trees, vines and shrubbery at unseasonably early
time in tlie fall, and before such stock has come
to a proper stage of maturity, making it entirely
unsafe for removal, is highly prejudical to the
best interests of the nurseryman, as well as to
those of the planter, and
Whereas, such a practice is tending to create
a general distrust and disregard against all fall
planting
Resolved, that we, as American Nurserymen,
in convention assembled, disapprove and protest
against such practice, and request our members
to discountenance and discourage the same at
every opportunity.
Mr. Campbell, of Ohio: In my judgment
it is too early to take up a plant or tree until
the foliage has fallen, and until the roots
are thoroughly ripened,— until the plant or
tree is dormant; at that time it can be taken
up with safety.
Mr. Parsons, of New York, fully agreed
with Mr. Campbell. In old times we never
commenced the taking up of trees until by
shaking them we could shake the leaves off.
Mr. Hale, of Connecticut, would rather
plant in the fall, but wants the selection of
the time of digging; nurserymen have in-
jured their business and injured fall sales
by forcing the business immaturely.
Mr. Meehan, of Pennsylvania, said that
they commence digging trees as fast as the
leaves begin to change color. The leaves are
only waiting for the frost to come, and when
the frost comes and takes them off, or we
take them off, we can see no difference.
When Mr. Meissner's resolution was
brought to a vote nearly every member fav-
ored it, and it was adopted.
Judge Miller's Strawberry Report.
The quantity of Strawberries consumed
may be in proportion to the intelligence and
refinement of the people. Never before in
the life of the writer were they more abund-
ant and cheaper in the west than this season;
and while discouraging to the grower, it was
a boom to the consumer, as they came with-
in the reach of the poorer classes.
We usually try to be guided in the future
by the past, so that what and how we shall
plant of this delicious fruit for the coming
yearin 1891,isa matter to be well considered.
Unless a man has a fair show for a home
market, it will be well to go slow, and plant
such as produce abundant crops of good-
sized berries, of good color, and at least
reasonably good quality. This latter item
seems to be of the least importance as a rule,
for a fruit that is large and showy, will out
sell one of much better quality if less at-
tractive in appearance. Of course for our
own use we want the best.
For a berry of the largest size, immensely
productive, fair quality, and firm enough
for any near market, Bubach (No. 5) would
be my choice. For little earlier I don't see
how we can dispense with the much abused
yet extensively grown Crescent. And for
an earlier berry than we have yet had,
Michel's Early and Schnell's Earliest will
take a place in this list. With these planted
on a southern slope (along side of each other,
as Michel is perfect flowering, but Schnell is
pistillate), and Gandy and Schnell's Late on
a northern e.xposure, 1 think we can have
Strawberries for six weeks instead of only
four,as is about the usual length of the crop.
Just now my plants of the Vandeman are
in full bloom, and as they came from Ark-
ansas it may be that this will be still later
than any we yet have tried.
Many of the older berries have done well
this season, such as Crescent, Minnesota,
Cumberland, Capt. Jack, Windsor Chief,
etc., and if we compare these with the new
ones they will not lose by the test.
The majority of the boomed varieties, one
by one, fade away and are scarcely men-
tioned after a few yeare of trial. Not so,
however, with Bubach, Warfield,Haverland,
and among the newer ones. Eureka, which
also has come to stay if I know anything
about a valuable berry.
Townsend's No. S and No.7, also Mrs. Gar-
field and Ohio Centennial show so well that
they may make a longer visit among ns than
many of the recent ones have done. Then
S. B. Miller, of Illinois, has a lot of new
seedlings that will be heard of ere long. I
might name a number of varieties fruiting
here for the first time, but none of them are
superior to many mentioned here.
Now the crop is about over, and many
will feel Uke giving up the growing on ac-
count of the unprofitableness of the present
season's crop, and neglect their plantations
even for their own use. This should not be
allowed, as even if not grown for the market,
one should have plenty of good berries for
one's own family.
Had I not set out a new plantation the
past spring and nursed them well up to the
present time, I should feel like turning them
under and planting late crops or sowing
Buckwheat on the land. But we will try it
one season more
So cheap were they this season that the
boxes, crates, express charges and a trifling
commission would have covered the trans-
action and left me nothing for the berries.
But this should not prevent all who have
land, from growing plenty for their own use,
and some to give their neighbors who can
not raise them. The old beds that are not
worth leaving should now be plowed imder
and left until tops are well decayed, and then
renewed with fresh plants, if desirable, first,
however, giving it a good coat of well-rotted
manure. If to be iised this fall, it is a good
plan to take new runners and set them in a
bed four or six inches apart, and keep them
well cultivated. They will l)ecome strong
by the first of October.
Last fall I set out a large number of such
plants, and the crop they produced this
season was very satisfactory. Where plenty
have been kept in stock, and are to have
another crop, they should be dressed up, and
the old leaves cut off close to the crown.
Clean all the decayed matter away, and then
draw mellow ground up even with the
crown. This will cause new roots to start,
and establish the plant for another crop. If
a bed is not too old, and it is desirable to
renew the bed, there should be strips of a
foot broad dug up and raked smooth; lay
and bed the young runners on this, and by
fall the old part can be plowed down or dug
and covered with the spade.
That young plants grown from those that
have borne a crop of fruit will not bear as
well as when grown from new ones that
have never never borne fruit, is a doctrine
laid down by some, and there is likely truth
in it, but sometimes it happens that we must
run the old ones or not have any. And that
plants a year old are not worth planting is
not quite tnie, for one dry season here, 1881
I think, there were no runners made, and we
were obliged to use old plants in the spring
of 1882. The following season these plants
bore a good crop.
Summer vs. Fall Planting of Straw-
berries.
CARL HOLTMAN, ULSTER CO., N. Y.
In some of the southern states I have seen
good crops grovsTi on plants set as late as
September or even October of the previous
year, but whether such good results are ob-
tained from plants set thus late, I am not
quite sure. I aiu perfectly safe in saying
that here at the north we have no use what-
ever for planting deferred until the fall
months, not even where potted plants are
used. I have tried this time and again, and
always with the same lack of success in
getting berries enough the next fruiting
season to pay for the extra trouble in caring
for the bed during fall and winter.
When planting in early spring we start
with a clean bed, and with a whole season
for the full development of plants for fruit-
ing ahead of us; and if we take good care of
the plantation we are reasonably sure of a
good crop that will pay well for the previous
season's attention.
Fairly good results may be secured by
summer planting however. In this case I
would want about the earliest runners
made on plants that have never fruited.
Such plants may usually he had in July,
and if taken up as soon as well grown and
well rooted, with a good chunk of soil left
adhering to the roots, moved to the new
plantation close by, and set and otherwise
cared for properly, the chances are they will
make good plants and develop embryo fruit
stalks before winter. Then mulch as good
culture requires, and trust to Providence.
With good potted plants we might even
start a bed early in August and not spoil
our chances. But no time should be lost.
Select the strongest runners, and let them
strike root in thumb pots. Pinch off second-
ary runners, in order to concentrate all
energies of the vine upon the potted plant.
When the pot has become filled with roots,
take it up, soak in water if dry. Knock out
the ball of earth with the plant, and set out
carefully, firming the soil about it.
I am sorry to say some nurserymen instead
of doing as above take up the rooted runners,
press them in a thumb pot, leaving them
there a day or two, then knock out the
plants, squeezing the earth together in a
tight ball, andsend forth as "potted plants."
Such plants can give no satisfaction.
I always set good potted plants of my own
growing, and that as early in the season as
possible, and I have good success. If 1 can-
not have such plants early, I prefer to wait
until spring, and make sure of my chances.
POPULAR GARDENING
AND FRUIT GROWING.
"ACCUSE NOT NATURE, SHE HATH DONE HER PARI: DO THOU BUT THINE." -Uiuron.
Vol. V.
SES'TEDyCBEE,, 1890.
No. 12.
The ComsUk tassels on the ridge
Are bronzing in the sun ;
The Elderberries by the bridge.
And all along the run,
Grow purple through the golden days ;
Barberries by the wall
Glow crimson in the silver haze
That ushers in the Fall.
—Annie M. Libby.
Califorkia's Boom. The season of 1890 bids
fair to be remembered in the horticultural his-
tory of California as a boom year of the first
kind. The Prune crop alone is estimated to be
close to 15,000.000 pounds, and the prices of all
dried fruits are steadily advancing.
The Agent System of selling fruit trees and
plants notwithstanding it is so often abused, has
its decidedly good points. We have always held
that it is ■much better people were urged and
persuaded to plant and care for fruit trees and
plants, even if the agents made them pay a good
round price for the stocls, than that any home
or family should be without fruits. There are
thousands of landowners in this country who
never would think of buying plants if not per-
sonally, and perseveringly solicited to do so.
The enjoyment of fruits which is one of the
greatest comforts and blessings of life, has
actually to be forced upon a great number of
rural people. We only protest against the abuses
of that system.
Nothing to sell Here. Our subscriber, W.
Chapman, Cedar Co., la., sends us an order for
Buhach, together with a remittance for the same
which we have been put to the trouble of return-
ing to him. He also requests our prices tor
Strawberry plants. We had supposed that every
subscribar to our journal was aware that we are
in no sense nur.^erymen, although we conduct
experiment grounds on which are tried all nov-
elties as they appear. We have from the first
made it a rule to sell nothing except our journal
and some books, and to this policy we shall
strictly adhere. To this subscriber we would say
that the various articles inquired about are ad-
vertised from time to time in our journal, and
he is respectfully referred to the parties whoso
advertise them.
Electric Light is a great slayer of insects.
Prof Lintner, New York's State Entomologist,
believes that the average number of the insects
destroyed in a night by a single electric light is
nearly 100,000. The larger portion of Prof. Lint-
ner's specimen collection from one light con-
sisted of minute gnats, midges, crane flies, and
similar small two-winged insects. No mosquitoes
were discovered among the victims, as they are
not attracted to the lights. There were, however,
large numbers of plant bugs, which are injurious
to vegetation, particularly of one small species
of a handsome green gassid, which feeds upon
our grasses. A number of the moths, and one of
the leaf-rollers which have made such havoc in
our fruit trees this season, were found, as well
as other species of the same family. Prof. Lint-
ner was sorry to discover also a numl)er of the
beautiful gauze wings among the heaps of the
slain, as their iarvit are the aphis lions which aid
in keeping down plant lice. The electric light,
says Prof. Linter, will undoubtedly prove an
active agent in the reduction of insect pests, and
also furnish entomologists with many rare spec-
imens and with many species never before seen.
Plum Leaf or Shothole Fungus.
A peculiar form of fungus on the leaves
of some of our Cherry trees attracted our
attention early in July. It appeared in
brownish spots which soon assumed definite
outlines, at last dropping out altogether,
leaving holes as if made by a charge of the
shot-gun. A leaf thus affected is shown in
the accompanying illustration.
This same fungus attacks the leaves of
Plum trees, and is known as Plum leaf or
shot hole fungus {Scptoria cfraKina, Peck),
and sometime results in premature dropping
of the leaves, which prevents the fruit from
maturing. In our own case during two
season, we did not notice any serious con-
sequences of the attacks, which presumably
were not severe ones.
We are not aware that remedies for the
disease have been tried, or found efficacious.
Burning the leaves as soon as they fall, is
suggested as a probable check to the spread
of the fungus. Spraying in May and June
with copper solutions, such as the Bordeaux
mixture, am-
moniated car-
bonate of cop-
per solution,
eau celeste, or
perhaps with
sodahyposhul.
phite solution,
is the treats
th crrnivor Appearance of the Shothole Fungus in the Cherry.
Annual Convention of American
Florists in Boston.
The fifth annual convention of American
Florists at Boston, August 19-23, was one of
the largest meetings ever held by this the
youngest of our national horticultural
societies. Some 800 delegates were present
accompanied in many instances by their
wives and daughters.
For some reason the proceedings were not
of as high an average value as in former
conventions of this society. The papers
were of a kind seemingly which did not
call out free discussion. Even the question
box, with answers assigned to leading
grower
may most likely expect to give him protec-
tion against the attack of this fungus.
The Alolne Wood Strawberry.
The remarks on Alpine Strawberries in a
recent issue of Popular Garden ixg have
brought out some requests for further in-
formation.
The Alpine Strawberries, as indicated by
the name, are natives of the Alps, and dis-
tinguished from the common wild or wood
Strawberries, of Europe, especially by their
habit of bearing continuotisly all through
the summer. We do not concede to this
class of Strawberries any practical value for
average people. None of its various varie-
ties is a "fill basket'' Strawberry, the fruit
is too small, and not bulk enough to be of
any account for market. At the same time
the fruit possesses a peculiar perfume, and
richness of flavor, which, with its everbear-
ing character, renders it interesting and of
value for the well-to-do amateur.
The varieties reproduce themselves exact-
ly in every respect from seed, and European
gardeners usually raise their supply of
plants in this way rather than from rim-
ners. They agree in the opinion that plants
grown from seed are more vigorous and
more productive than the others. Some of
the varieties of Bush Alpines produce no
runners, and are always increased by seed,
or by division of the tufts. These Bush
Alpines are hardy, productive and continous
bearers.
If a good supply of berries is desired late
in autumn, the plants might be rested by
the removal of earlier fruit stalks and run-
ners, and by providing them plentifully
with moisture during the summer heat. If
exposed to heat and drought, the plants will
cease to fruit. We believe that the plants
will be most likely to yield fruit continuously
all through the summer and fall, if planted
in soil quite rich in humus, and in a half
shady situation. The conditions would
then resemble more nearly those found in
their native home. When thus treated the
Alpines should yield almost as abundantly
in September as in spring.
florists was rather a spiritless affair. Is
it possible that the florists have been so
flushed by the remarkable success of their
young society in the past, that they begin
to feel that any kind of programme or any
manner of participation in the meetings on
the part of members should prove success-
ful ? If so it is a grave mistake which the
executive board would do well to look
closely into with a view to proper remedies.
There certainly .should be no lack of sub-
jects, to occupy the close attention of hun-
dreds of enterprising florists during three
or four days of the annual convention. In
kindred associations, more especially that
of the lAmerican nurserymen, the interest
in the annual meetings and discussions is
clearly on the increase, so it should be with
the present society. If the interest in the
educational features of the convention
sessions is really showing signs of waning,
not a few friends of the society could be
found who would attribute the unfortunate
state to an undue love for play and pleasure
on the part of members during convention
time. It is one of the excellent objects of
these meetings to combine recreation with
work, but it would be a grave error to give
the former the greater prominence. We
have confidence that this is far from the
florists' intentions. We believe that with
observing the present signs they will so call
a halt on the weaker features of this so-
ciety's past experience, as to evolve a future
career in every way as creditable to them-
selves as has been so much of the past.
For a city in which to hold a florist's con-
vention no other in America could surpass
Boston. Here the culture of plants and
flowers both commercially and in private
places has, all in all, made greater advance-
ment than in any other section of the
country. We doubt not that the magnifi-
cent exhibition of well-grown plants and
flowers by the Massachusetts Horticultural
Society during convention week proved a
complete revelation to most of the florists
present. Certainly no other city could make
an equally fine display of the products of
the plantsman's art. The visits by the con-
250
POPULAR GARDENING.
September,
vention to the famous private gardens of
Mrs. Francis B. Hayes and of Mr. H. H.
Hunnewell, in the vicinity of Boston were
among the most attractive events of the
week.
The Pre.5IDENt's Address. In the course
of President J. M. Jordan's address the fol-
lowing points of general interest were pre-
sented :
The aim of this Society is to lift up and caiiy
Plant and Fruit of the Alpine Strawberry. See Preceding Page.
forward all that tends to advance the interest of
its membei's.
Much is expected from its organized efforts,
not only to instruct its members in their avoca-
tions, but to educate the masses in horticulture,
by widening and deepening an interest in our
profession, by increasing our membership, until
we embrace all the leading men of the country
who are interested in the various callings of
horticulture.
There are lew occupations more general than
the florist's and horticulturist's, and it is com-
mitted to our hands to extend our parks and bou-
levards far into the country until city is linked
to city, and the most rural districts will feel the
vitalizing forces of plants and flowers. And
this brings us to the inquiry: From whence wUl
come the means? Who will furnish the money?
It we are true to our best interests we will do all
we can to foster the sentiment of encouraging
donations to )ior(icu((Hrt'. " He who plants a
tree (and makes it grow) builds a monument to
his name; or makes two blades of grass grow
where but one grew before, will not lose his re-
ward."
Large fortunes have been bequeathed to religi-
ous institutions, and to schools and while we
all believe that much good is accomplished thus,
yet we must acknowledjte those who are thus
benefited are very few, compared with the great
mass of people that frequent our parks and pub-
lic grounds to take object lessons, where young
and old, rich and poor, learned and illiterate meet
on one common level to drink in nature's best
gifts to man.
Undoubtedly these sentiments inspired Mr.
Henry Shaw who died in St. Louis, August 25,
1889) to bequeath to the public his immense for-
tune, for the purpose of instructing the people
in the ever-increasing knowledge of horticulture.
He gives to the public a Botanical Gai-den which
shall be forever kept up and maintained for the
cultivation and propagation of plants, flowers,
fruits, trees and other productions of the vega-
table kingdom, a museum and library, devoted
to the service of botany, horticulture and allied
subjects.
A school has already been established, where
young men are trained in the practical work of
horticulture. They are paid for their work, be
sides furnished with lodgings and tutition free.
Mr. Shaw did not forget the social side of life,
and bequeathed one thousand dollars each year
for a banquet to men eminent as teachers of
science, literature and art; also four hundred
each year for a Uke banquet for gardeners and
florists; five hundred dollare each year for a
floral exhibition; giving the trustees unlimited
power to spend large sums of money in extend-
ing parks and pleasure grounds. And that these
objects may be fully carried out, he has put into
the hands of the trustees an estate \ alued from
Ave to eight million dollni-s, consisting largely of
prtductive really Ihatiiumut lie sold, but must
be rented. The income now realizes hundreds
of thousands of dollars, and should in the near
future reach a million dollars a year. St. Louis
challenges the world to show a like donation
from any one individual.
The subject of a higher education has been
mentioned in our former conventions. Modern
science reveals the operations of nature in their
truth and beauty, and lifts us by their contem-
plations out of ourselves to higher things. It
finds as much that is wonderful in the growth of
a blade of grass as in
the motion of the
planets, as much of
inspii'ation in the
process by which a
clod of earth gives
up its fertility as in
the forces that keep
the stars in their
places in the uni-
verse.
There should be
established some
measure of qualifica-
tion of young men
entering into the em-
ployment of florist to
learn the business,
and with proper in-
fluence, we could
have graduated at
many of our institu-
tions of learning
young men suitable
for aprentices in our
profession.
No school of recognized ability to graduate a
pupil should leave out of its curriculum books
of that kind, and even our common schools
should teach the rudiments of horticulture.
Special Fertilizers IN the Greenhouse.
In a well-written paper on the above sub-
ject. Prof. S. T. Maynard, of the Mas-
sachusetts Agricultural CoUege, Amherst,
said the conditions of plant growth are com-
prised under three heads namely: A proper
amount of water, sun and plant food. In
house culture the small amount of soil pos-
sible necessitates the use of much greater
quantities of chemical or concentrated man-
ures. Potash and other nitrogenous man-
ures produce good leaf growth ; for seeds
and other results different chemical com-
binations are required.
Liquid manures have not been found on
tlie whole to give the best results at the ex-
periments at Amherst. Muriate of potash,
sulphate of ammonia, nitrate of soda, sul-
phate of potash, bone black and ordinary
liquid manures have all been used in
separate plots. The muriate of potash and
bone black gave the best results in Car-
nation culture. Various special experiments
in the use of these fertilizers were then
given in the raising of Lettuce, Tomatoes
and other plants. The Tomatoes did decidedly
best in the plots, treated with
bone black, which is rich in
prosphoric acid. Pansies
were then treated with the
same fertilizers, in which ex-
periment the muriate of pot-
ash produced the finest
bloom. In treating the Calla
the best resxilts were got by
leaving the plants undis-
turbed through the summer,
and afterwards treating
them, when potted for bloom-
ing, with liquids prepared
from any of the standard pre-
pared manures.
Dried blood, and other
similar animal substances
were not thought favorably of, as likely to
induce mildew in the greenhouse.
Professor Maynard spoke of the great need
of further careful experiment in this direc-
tion, and inxited all gardeners and florists
to engage so far as practicable in the work
of recording results for mutual instruction.
. Succulents for the Florist. Mr. E.
S. Miller of Floral Park, N. Y., in his paper
on this subject says, these are potentially
very valuable for the florist's purposes, es-
pecially for use as house plants, but need
some special knowledge in their culture.
Mr. Miller gave a list of not commonly
known succulents which should be more
generally in use. The most of these are
easily propagated by cuttings, and can be
extended very rapidly. The common suc-
culents, such as the Cactus, House Leek,
Sedums of various sorts, Mesembryanthe-
mums and others, have been very success-
fully grown for a long time.
The great number of plants of the Cactus
family to be found in Texas and New Mexico
are, however, of far greater promise. These
are quite subject to the attacks of insects
such as mealy bug, thrips, scale, etc. , the use
of Tobacco and sulphur being generaly suc-
cessful, however, in clearing them of pests.
In some cases a brush should be used, but
if the plants are very badly infested, it is
better to throw them away than to run the
risk of seriously infesting the whole house.
New Officers; Next Meeting. The
election of officers for the ensuing year re-
sulted in the following choice: President,
M.H.Norton, Boston, Mass.; Vice President,
John Chambers, Toronto, Out.; Treasurer,
Myron A. Hunt, Indiana; Secretary, W. L.
Stewart, Boston. Toronto, Ontario, is the
place chosen for the meeting in 1891.
Notes from the Popular Gardening
Grounds at La Salle-on-the-
Niagara.
The Stratagem Pe.\. It is not the first time
we mention this Pea, but it proves so good, and
has done so well, year after year, here and else-
where, that we could not resist the temptation
of presenting the picture of a branch taken from
our patch. The plant is remarkably bushy, not
over eighteen inches high, and entirely self-sup-
porting, stem stout and stocky, and leaves large
and healthy. The plant bears numerous pods of
the very largest size, usually crowded almost to
bursting with Peas which are also largest in size
and of the very best quality. It comes in mid-
season, perhaps midway between Bliss' Ever-
bearing and Champion of England. It has, in-
deed, so many good qualities that it deserves to
be grown in every home garden. We are also
sure that extra prices can be secured for it in
most markets, while the picking will require
but one-half the labor demanded by other vari-
eties for picking the same quantity. By all
means try the Stratagem next year. The spring
floods, this season, have done much damage to
our Pea patches, as they have to other things,
and about ruined a large number of varieties.
As a general thing, we maj' say, however, that
the majority of the newer mtroductions of gar-
den (wrinkled) Peas, among them Telephone,
Yorkshire Hero, and .American Champion, have
proved with us not only entirely' i*eliable, but
also of highest quality. People who only grow
Plantliw Tulips in Clumps. See Opposite Page.
the old smooth varieties for table use, and have
never tasted any of these fine wrinkled sorts,
can have no idea what a really good Pea is.
A Weeding Hoe. What a difference there is
between hoeing and hoeing ! In employing peo-
ple to do garden work we have fimnd that men
who do good hoeing— such as will thoroughly
pulverize the soil, kill every weed, whether to be
seen or only just sprouting, and be of most and
lasting lieuetlt, are the exception rather than the
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
251
rule. But when you once have a man that
knows how to do pood hoeiiifr, keep him if pos-
sible, for ten to one, he will do all his other work
thoroughly and intellif^eutl.v. 0{ course a good
man and a good hoe should go together. The
dull, worn-out, rickety alTaii-s so often put in the
hands of hired men, or, worse than all, of the
young boy who takes his tlrst lessons in the field,
arc an abomination, and should be replaced by
new tools, light and sharp ami bright. Oood and
effective work is more likely to be done with
them than others.
Yet the old dis-
cai'ded hoes need not
be thrown away. We
have used them to
the best advantage
for weeding hoes
among Onions and
other close-planted
stuff. The change
from a poor hoe to a
good weed killer is /
easily made, as shown
in our engi-aving on
page 2fi8. We simply
took them to the neai'-
est blacksmith, and
had the blades cut
down, in the way in-
dicated by the dotted
lines, and so that the
width of the cutting
edge is narrowed
down to about two
and one half inches.
This gives us a narrow
hoe with sharp edges,
and admirabl.v fltted
for killing the weeds
among the rows of
vegetables. Care in
handling such tools
is necessary.of course,
else the sharp corners
clip off, or into, the
Onions, or Beets, or
whatever vegetables
they may be. On the
whole, these hoes
have saved us and
our men some back-
aching work. The
weeding in the rows
especially during the
later stages of the
development of gar-
den crops, was done
almost wholl,v with
these weeding hoes.
EVEROBEENS In
Summer. It is cus-
tomary to speak of
the l)eauty of ever-
greens in the winter,
as if the prominence
of this class at a season
when other kinds are
devoid of foliage, did
not entitle them to !»
called attractive in
the season of general
verdure. But the
summer beauty of
evergreens impresses
us more and more as
we behold the fine
appearence of the
borders of these
set out here but a year ago last May. At |
this date, August 13, after six weeks of almost
unbroken drought, which has caused the lawn to
become browned and the foliage of various kinds
to flag, there is not a handsomer sight on our
place than the evergreens. Indeed we go fur-
ther and say that of all our hardy growths these
groups of young Conifers excel in beaut.v and
freshness all others, if we except only the line
of large trees near the waters' edge which draw
up an abundance of moisture from beneath.
Turn our eyes towards the borders of deciduous
shrubs ; there are now few flowers as compared
with a month ago and earlier, foliage of some
kinds which earlier was of a deep green has now,
partly as a result of the drought, turned to a
yellowish or brownish hue, and is comparatively
unattractive. Some of the kinds such as the
Mountain Ash-leaved Spiriea and the Yellow-
flowering Currant are showing a tinge of red
indicating ripening of the foliage here in mid
summer. It is true that many others such as the
Weigelas, Elders, Roses, Spineas, Calycanthus,
.Sumachs, retain their color admirably, but they
arc detracted from in measure by others whose
lH>auty is on the decline. Here and there also a
branch shows the effect of some insect work, or
blight, and which while it does not greatly mar
the same is yet no help to appearences.
With the evergreens it is otherwise. In our
large group comprising 25 distinct species and
varieties, the beauty is uniform throughout and
wholly imimpaired by the drought. There is no
THE STRATAGEM PEA. As Sketched on the Papular Gardening Grounds.
somewhat at the edges.
signs of a lack of moisture in the soil, of insects
or of blight, nothing but the handsome, rich,
clean vigorous foliage delicate in form and of
substantial color. The prevailing hue is a rich
deep green with more or less of a blueish cast in
the Pines and some others, and of gold in various
Arbor Vitseas, and Junipers. Viewed as a whole
there is an indescribable richness in the mass that
is unequalled by any other hard-wooded growths.
Viewed closely the richness of most kinds is
equally apparent and leads one to think the
deciduous shrub comparatively coarse. One of
the conspicuous charms of the class is the deep
shadows present in the interior of the tree as
they contrast markedly with the outside gi'owth.
A list of the principle evergreens comprising the
group referred to was given in our June issue.
There is not an individual in the lot but is doing
itself credit during the present dry spell, no
water has been applied to these borders. The
other evergreens scattered about our grouncjs
are equally pleasing in appearence at this date.
Trees and Humidity. That the presence of
trees near to or upon a lawn which is not kept
watered artificially is conducive to maintaining
good color to the grass in time of drought is
quite noticeable the present season. The trees
serve variously in preserving moisture to the
soil, flrst l)y l)reaking drying winds, which if un-
checked so rapidly take up the moisture from the
soil, second by the shade they cast and which
from each tree amounts to a large area, as
from morning till night, the shadow shifts,
third by the natural
humidity emitted
from the foliage.
These combined influ ■
ences when of rather a
marked nature, are
sufficient to render
a lawn of good color
in droughty times for
a number of weeks
beyond the time,wben
a similar lawn begins
to turn brown. In the
ease of the Beech and
some other trees the
roots of which lie
near the surface, the
grass may early in a
drought be robbed
of moisture to its in-
jury. But with the
majority of trees the
roots strike down
suflicently deep that
with the presence of
the favorable influ-
ences named it takes
a long drought to ef-
fect unfavorably the
jrrass under the trees.
The Massing or
Tulips. As an in-
stance of the favor-
able effects which fol-
low the arranging of
bulbs in irregular
masses instead of
straight lines, we re-
fer to a simple clump
of three varieties of
double Tulips that
was planted on the
lawn at Woodbanks
a year ago The form
of the mass is shown in
the engraving on the
opposite page. Part
a was planted with
Rex Ruborum, a rich
deep scarlet, b with
Gloria Solus crim-
son with deep yellow
margin about half and
half of each color, c
with Tournesal Yel-
low, a brilliant yellow
variety. These are
among the finest of
double sorts, and
grow about 10 inches
high.
■ The outline of the
seperate varieties was
not as cleanly de-
fined as the engrav-
ing would indicate,
the masses instead
ran into each other
The bed was a I'emark-
ably handsome sight when in bloom, and vastly
more effective than would have been possible,
had the bulbs been planted either in regular
lines or had the colors been mixed.
It may be added that this bed was planted with
Geraniums and other summer fiowers the latter
end of May and without disturbing the bulbs.
The summer plants were set out between the
maturing Tulip plants so that for a few weeks
there were two distinct occupants of the bed-
But as the Gerainums increased the others
decreased and after a little were sufficiently ripe
to admit of cutting away, and this was done.
Now that it is the right time to order and plant
hardy bulbs, let it be said that as a class the early
double Tulips are not sufliciently appreciated,
considering their sterling qualities, the low prices
at which the bulbs can be bought, and their per-
manency. In our own grounds we have with
great satisfaction grown the following varieties
additional to those named above: Imperator
252
POPULAR GARDENING.
September,
Rubrorum, splendid deep scarlet, the petals ar-
ranged somewhat loosely, one foot biith; La
landeur, fine white : Murillo. white shaded with
rose, magnificent large flowers .Count Leicester,
orange and yellow, feathered.
A Mistake. The drought reveals a mistake
made in laying out one feature of our grounds.
Along next to a heavy fringe of young second
growth Oak. Chestnut, Maple and other trees and
shrubs that skirts one side of the grounds next to
the creek, the broad shrub borders were ar-
ranged to extend back U> the fringe mentioned.
It is now very plain that with having kept the
soil of the shrub bed worked and somewhat
manured, it has tempted the roots of the tree,
over to suck up the food and moisture with
jrreat apparent satisfaction to themselves, but
detrimentally to the shrubs. The remedy is
plain : namely to take up the back part of the
border, devoting it to grass, or else have the
space occupied with the ranker growing shrubs,
letting them flght for their rights as they can.
But it is evident that the choicer shrubs and
plants must be moved further away from the
near-by older occupants. Oearly it is not fair
treatment for any choice plants to have the roots
of rank-growing trees or other shrubs reach in
and rob them of sustenance. In such case with
the surface of the bed kept tilled the intruding
roots come quite near the surface.
The ctrBRA>TS. Our plant*, now the second
year from setting, bore quite a respectable crop.
We must consider this one of the most easily
grown, most reliable, and perhaps most remu-
nerative of ordinary fruit crops. We also think
highly of it as material for canning, and especi-
ally for the table during winter when a little
sharp fruit acid comes so acceptable and grati-
fying. As to varieties, it will take an expert, and
one with more than average powers of observa-
tion, to easily distinguish between many of those
of the same color. Red Champion. Prince Albert,
Versailles, Red Dutch, etc.. are so near alike in
their leading characteristics, that we are not at
all sure of our infallibility when attempting to
tell the variety name of any one plant without
seeing the label. The same is true also of the
Cherry and of Fay's Currants, and of the White
Champion, White Dutch and White Grape. The
following, however, is an abstract of notes made
during visits to the patch.
Of red sorts, Red Defiance bore plenty or fruit;
of good size in bunch and berry.
Prince Albert had but little fruit. Versailles
bore well. Red Dutch gave large long clusters,
but only few in number. Fay excels in size of
clusters and berry, is reasonably prolific and
somewhat acid. Cherry seems a trifle smaller in
both bunch and berry, and less prolific than
Fay. The chief difference between the two-
however, is in the length of the stems of fruit
clusters. They are remarkably long in the Fay.
Among the white varieties we have the White
Champion, well loaded with fruit. White Dutch
bore much less fruit. The old White Grape,
however, appeared to outyield all by far, as the
bushes were completely covered with fruit. Sun
scald affected all varieties about equally.
Red-Flowered Dogwood This hardy shrub
of recent introduction appears to be one of the
most promising subjects of the large collection
recently planted on o*ir grounds. Indeed to the
extent we can judge now near the end of the
second season from planting, it is destined to
take front rank among all shrubs suitable for
lawn or cemetery adornment. On our bush
flowers appeared in profusion during the past
spring, one season after setting out. The com-
mon white type, Cormis Florida, planted at same
time under similar conditions showed no bloom.
The flowers, or rather petal-like involucres.which
surround the flowers are in this variety as large
as in the common one and of a deep rosy red
hue, and possess a degree of attractiveness that
is wholly witljput equal among hardy shrubs of
the season. The Red-flowering bush is of free
growth, in this respect excelling the common
species on our own grounds, for we note that
while the former shows scores of this year's
shoots from 12 to 15 inches long, those on trees of
the latter do not average one half this size. The
form of growth is decidedly shrubby, our plaat
being now three feet high and the same measure
across and dense' throughout. Altogether we
must look upon this shrub as well worthy of
trial by readers who are desirous of increasing
their collections of the choicer new shrubs. It
may be ordered at the leading nurseries, going
by the name Red-flowering Dogwood {Cornui<
Florida ftore ruirro).
Seasonable Notes on Small Fruits.
E. P. POWELL. ONEroA CO., X. T.
The Strawberry Season. Berry culture
has come to such proportions that no other
f niit industry is of more importance . I have
made the following notes during ISHO: The
season on Strawberries has been strictly
abnormal. No one could possibly judge of a
variety by its behavior this year. Therefore
specific reports must not count for much.
Haverland and Cumberland, both of which
I know to be of the very finest, have not
done verj- well. One or two other sorts have
surpassed the best standard varieties, but
are not for all that to be reckoned reliable
and foremost. On the whole, so far as a
comparison of the past three years goes.I
still hold to Sharpless and Cumberland, and
Bubach and Haverland as extra fine and
most reliable. I should like to see a race of
berries raised from Summit. This is a very
curious berry, as slow to ripen as a Peach.
It is solid, heavy, large, handsome, excel-
lent. It is very late, and very slow to ripen
after beginning to color. It is truly unique.
How it will be for market I cannot judge.
But it is a new style of berry.
Bush Hoxetsuckle Hedge. I wish to
commend the planting of Bush or Tartarian
Honeysuckles around berry lots. The robins
take the berries in preference to Raspber-
ries, and so greatly relieve the burden of
their pickings. It makes a robust hedge,
profuse in flower and in fruit. It propagates
with great ease, and grows into full size in
two or three years. It forms a hedge that
no one can easily make hideous, as they can
Thorns and Evergreens. You can raise from
seed if you prefer.
Raspberry Growing. This has been a
capital year for Raspberries where they have
been grown rightly: but in other cases the
crop is a failure. I insist that the bushes
should be grown taller than usual. Mine
are clipped off at six feet, and the canes are
tied to a wire stapled to posts in the row
twenty feet apart. Tie three or four canes
together with " hop twine " to the wire. In
this way the tall cane.s stand well up, and
the branches shade the soil. In case of
drought the sun does not easily afl'ect such
plants. Besides this I have the ground
heavily mulched with coarse stable manure
—straw and sawdust bedding included—
after the old canes are cut out and the new
ones tied up. My crop has been somewhat
injured, but I have picked nearly one hun-
dred bushels of fine berries.
Raspberry Varieties. The Shaffer's
Colossal resists drought admirably, and if
trained sideways to wires is a wonder for
cropping. The Marlboro is only a medium
fine berry— early, and holds on well. I have
a strain of seedlings from Cuthbert and
Philadelphia that tm-n out wonderfully, and
I hope to be able to send out the best early
varieties to be had. They will be tested one
more year at home. Our variety was not
only the earliest but the latest in ray fields.
Turner is the only red that I have which
with my methed of growing runs out in a
few years. My Cuthberts are as fine as ever
in a garden planted some years ago. The
canes of this year's growth are very strong
and clean. Golden Queen is not a good
shipper, but takes well in a near market.
Hiding Blackcaps from Birds. When
a person has only a small fruit garden the
best place for black Raspberries is to have
a few plants under the Grape row. They
will not interfere seriously with the Grape
vines, but the fruit will escape the eyes of
the birds. These are tricks of the trade
that must not be despised. The black Rasp-
berry suffers more from bird depredation
than any other fruit.
A Good Gooseberry. The Gooseberry,
so popular in England, begins to be in much
greater demand here. Industry fails with
me. and is the only .sort that does so entirely.
But I have a berry that I have sent samples
of to Popular G.\rdening and to other
authorities, and I have very great hopes that
it will be just the thing. It is early, scarlet
red, deepening afterward to purple. It bears
heavily on very large bushes. It is a true
cross of the English and native Gooseber-
ries. The history of this berry is cvirious —
like that of many other good fruits. I found
it in a field adjacent to a forest, and quite
far from any habitation. It was probably
bird-sown. I have grown it six or seven
years, and am satisfied now that it is worth
sending out. I do not think it will bear as
heavily by count as Houghton and Ameri-
can; but by weight it wiU.
Birds and Berries. Whether we shall
encourage the birds or not to visit our berry
yards may seem a problem. But I have
quite settled it in favor of the birds. We
cannot live by berries alone any more than
by bread alone. We need mind food and
we need encourgement. Bird music is
worth all we pay for it, and a hundred fold
more. I say to robins, catbirds, and aU
native sparrows, to grosbeaks, indigo
birds and the goody gold finches, come on!
help yourselves! I have not less than half
a dozen pairs of catbirds nested about my
house each year, and, oh! how they sing.
They almost articulate. One of them has
learned all I whistle to him, and whistles it
back to me. Most people never hear a cat-
bird sing. It never will sing until it has a
true home, when it feels at home. But apart
from music, my native birds are so abund-
ant that they drive off and keep off English
sparrows and blackbirds, besides eating a
vast number of worms and larva?. I had
some worms on my Currant bushes owing
to the carelessness of the person who had
charge of the hellebore. Baskets after pick-
ing were placed in the cellar over night. I
was surprised to find no worms the next
morning. This puzzled me. and I imagined
they had crawled off. But one day I found
a toad sitting on the edge of a basket of
Currants catching the worms and devouring
them. I have made a pet of him. He
enjops being talked to and having his head
rubbed. Tommy is a fine fellow. We
must learn who are our friends.
Evergreens for Hedge Purposes.
The choice of Evergreens should always
be made with an eye to the particular object
in view. If for protection alone, as for in-
stance on the outside of buildings or or-
chards, says Josiah Hoopes in the Tribime,
a dense, strong-grower should be selected.
Norway Spruce, aU things considered, fills
every requirement, and needs little training.
Scotch and Austrian Pines have been rec-
ommended, but, owing to the disastrous
fungal disease peculiar to the genus, these
soon prove useless, the lower branches be-
coming defoliated. White Pines form an
excellent screen, especially if pruned when
young.
American Arbor-vitae, although not grow-
ing so large as the foregoing, will make a
heavy, sightly and effective hedge, if set
close together. They increase rapidly in
height, but slowly in bulk near the ground;
no mistake will be made in using them in
almost any situation not too wet.
For an ornamental hedge proper, that is.
one to be annually trimmed and kept in
perfect condition. Hemlock Spruce is per-
haps most attractive, but Norway Spruce
will bear neglect better, is hardier in the
hedge, is adapted to a greater diversity of
soils and exposures, and, If skillfully
trimmed, presents an exceedingly beautiful,
although formal, appearance.
Siberian Arbor-Vita- (a mere form of our
native species, with an improper name)
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
253
makes a charming hedge plant. For cheap-
ness combined with utility, the common
Arbor- Vita" may be recommended a-s among
the most available evergreens. In shaded
situations, or in fact wherever a very low
boundary is needed, nothing can take the
place of ordinary Tree Box, or its varieties
known sis Chinese Box.
Those desiring a neat and serviceable en-
closure for cemetery lots, will find the latter
unsurpassed, although it is questionable
taste to have any hedge around them, hate
summer may be recommended for planting
Kvergreehen dges; during a droughth the
operation will almost, certainly fail, but if
the season be moist failure rarely results.
When out of the ground. Evergreen roots
must be preserved damp, and if the day be
cloudy and wet during removal, success is
certain. At this time roots will form at
once, and the plants will secure a firm hold
of the soil before winter.
Summer Meeting of the Ontario
(Canada) Fruit Growers'
Association.
The picturesque little town of Xiagara-on-
the-Lake liad been selected for the place of
summer meeting (July 8th, 9th and ll)th),
perhaps in the hope that the charms of the
place would assist in inducing members to
attend. The number of those present, how-
ever, was so small, that there was talk
among the officers of the organization to
abandon the whole scheme of having sum-
mer meetings in future, and concentrate all
efforts upon the winter meeting. Unques-
tionably this will be a wise thing to do.
^ Ornamental Thees for Ontario, D.
Nichol read a paper on the " Suitability of
the different kinds of ornamental trees for
the different localities in Ontario. ' Extracts
of this will be given later. He spoke of the
common Beech as un.surpassed as a shade
tree.and recommended the Cut-leaved Weep-
ing Birch as the one tree above all others for
the lawn. In reply to a question he stated
that the Ironwood can be made one of the
prettiest ornamental trees if trimmed low
and shaped into a compact growth.
The American Elm stands very high as a
shade and lawn tree. The Horse Chestnut
does not last long. There is too much money
spent in the Province on this tree, when
native trees would give much better satis-
faction. The principle trouble with the
Blue Spruce is its liability to be attacked by
a fungus, which affects the leaves and di.s-
figures the tree. Has tried the copper rem-
edies for this disease, but thus far without
definite results.
Hi'MBCGS IX Horticulture. Mr. T. Race
addressed the meeting on this sub,iect. At
the head of an extensive list of humbugs,
he says, stands the nursery .jobber who pre-
tends to be a nurseryman, but who has not
a foot of land nor a tree. If the Society Unds
that the farmer is bound to be humbugged,
it should try to educate him not to be.
Although not a protectionist he is in favor
of a prohibitive tariff on nursery stock to
shut out the tree jobber. These men like to
buy the surplus stock of nurserymen on the
other (American) side, because they can get
the stuff very cheap, and then palm it off
on our Canadian customers. People should
be sensible and buy directly from reliable
Canadian nurseries, A farmer needing a
bam does not wait until some carpenter
comes along and convinces him that he
ought to have one, but he goes to work and
has one put up. People needing trees ought
to do the same.
Humbugs are also found in connexion
with nurseries. The Russian Mulberry has
proved to be one. The Russian Apricot is
another. These were pushed by reliable
nurserymen, and much damage has been
done. It is a humbug to sell to a farmer a
little tirape vines for $1..50 or -^S.OO, and the
farmer invariably finds it so in a year ortwo.
All new fruits should be tested at the
stations, and only sent out after having been
found worthy.
In the discussion following this address
Mr. Dempsey stated that the Russian Apri-
cot on Plum stock is worth cultivating as
an ornamental tree.
Secretary Woolverton was sure the Rus-
sian Apricot was sent out with confidence
and in good faith. But many of them have
proved deficient in hardiness. They came
from a section where the more tender fruits
succeed. There may be some among the
named varieties that will be more hardy.
At least he hopes that there will be some
found yet worthy of recommendation.
The Russian Olive was mentioned as a
fine ornamental shrub, having proved hardy
at Ottawa.
Points in Pe.\ch Growing in the Ni-
agara District. This was the title of a
paper by Secretary Woolverton. After
twenty years of experience, with failures
outnumbering the successes, he is still of
the opinion that Peaches in this region can
be grown with profit. Even when we get
only one good crop in five years, the Peach
is still worthy of a place on our fruit farms.
A good yield will sometimes pay the owner
as much as -ftiUO per acre, and this gives an
average of $iO per acre for five years, in the
most unfavorable case, while at the same
time there is a chance of doing much better
One of the few points requiring careful
attention is wise selection of varieties.
Alexander, Early Rivers, Early Hales,
Early Crawford, Wager and Bowslaugh's
Late, recommended at last winter meeting
by President Smith, all are excellent ; but
Mr. Woolverton is becoming more and
more discouraged with Early Crawford.
Failure has become almost the rule. If we
get it, it is so fine we feel like planting it ;
but the trouble is we get it so seldom, that
the choice is between no fruit and one of
less desirable quality.
Hyne's Surprise and Horton Rivers were
named as reliable bearers at the late West-
ern New York meeting. Mr. Woolverton is
testing, among others, Troth's Early. C'hris-
tianha, Salway, Steven's Rareripe, Wheat-
land, WiUets, Conkling, Cooledge's Favor-
ite, Foster, Hill's Chili, Lord Palmerston,
May's Choice, Mountain Rose, Richmond,
Shnmacher, Pineapple, Globe and Centen-
nial. Perhaps one or the other of these may
prove worthy to be placed on the list of the
six best sorts. The secretary is loth to leave
out the Old Mixon, which is one of the
grandest old varieties both in quality and
appearance tested, but it is tender, and
more than others subject to the yellows.
Another important point is selection of
suitable site and congenial soil, for the
Peach is hard to please. For best results it
demands a well-drained soil. The essayist's
best orchard is on an elevated piece of
ground of about five acres. On other parts
the trees have been short-lived, and un-
satisfactory, especially on clay loam.
Mr. Woolverton advocates rather close
planting of Peach trees (about 12 feet apart)
on account of their liability to be thinned
out by the yellows at an early age.
The method of pruning has much to do
with deciding the distance. If limbs are
allowed to grow to any length spreading
out like bare poles, with foliage and fruit
far out towards the ends, close planting
would not answer. But this method is out
of date, in Canada, even. Trees so treated
die young, and are not so productive as
where properly shortened in. The idea of
shortening in is simply to cut back the new
growth about one-half every spring, and in
case of neglected orchards which have
already become straggling, to cut back the
old wood severely, and in this way an abun-
dant supply of young wood is kept up which
is productive of better fruit, and a greater
abundance of it. An orchard so treated
will also live longer, and be more attractive
in appearance.
The Peach orchard must have thorough
cultivation, especially in the early part of
the season. Among Peach enemies we
have the curl, the curculio, the borer and
the yellows. No remedy is known for the
curl. The borer gives little trouble if the
trees are heaped up with earth in early
spring, thus blocking out the borer from the
tender part at the collar of the tree. The
yellows remain still as great a mystery as
ever, notwithstanding the enormous ex-
pense incurred by the U. S. Department of
Agriculture in trying to understand it. No
better remedy is suggested than the one
which has been faithfully employed for
years past, and that is rooting out every
case as fast as discovered.
In packing for market the old bushel
crate, the half bushel and basket, have
given place to the twelve quart basket, and
now the question is whether even this is
not too large. For choice samples, during
the growing season, Kilb Grape basket may
be used, putting only the finest in this
package and the ordinary in a larger basket.
Judge Miller's Notes on Blackberries
in 1 S90.
There is none of our small fruits that fill
a greater place than the Blackberry. They
last a long time, and seem to be just the
thing for the hot weather of summer. Law-
ton and Kittatinny I discarded years ago as
failures, and now I have Snyder, Taylor,
Triumph, Erie, Minnewaski.Stone's Hardy,
and Freed. All have done well, and a little
description may be interesting.
Snyder ripens first of the Bramble sorts;
next comes Triumph, then Taylor. Erie,
Minnewaski, Stone's Hardy and Freed about
the same time. Minnewaski and Erie have
come to stay. Hardy, prodtictive and good.
Erie to my taste the best. They are the
largest cultivated ones I have with the
exception of the Triumph.
Stone's Hardy and Freed are both exelleut
large berries, the latter a production of
Pettis county, this state, and the one most
grown where it is best known. But I have a
rather strange story to tell about this fruit.
Bordering my original Blackberry patch on
the east side, along a declivity under the
lofty cliffs, there are thousands of seedlings
from the Snyder and Triumph, some re-
sembling one some the other, while many
show both traits.
F"'rom this wilderness bushels and bushels
have been gathered, that are fully equal to
the cultivated ones, and in another place
where the native wild ones sprung up in
weeds and sod, we gathered finer berries
than any other. These volunteers are larger
on an average than the named ones, and de-
cidedly better in quality. The question
arises is the Blackberry not a fruit that will
take care of itself and yield abundantly?
This looks like it.
Once I was told of a very large superior
Blackberry in a secluded spot in Cedar Glen,
near here. The following season I visited
it in fruit time, and sure enough it was a
grand one. It was marked, and in the fol-
lowing fall 1 took the plant home; propa-
gated it, sent some plants to the finder, and
named it Cedar Glen, with an idea that we
had a big thing.
When the plants came to bear they were
of so little account, that after two years
fruiting they were rooted out. The same
was the experience of the friend to whom I
sent plants.
. ^Vllen we find an extra fine wild one in
the forest, it is likely that the roots run
254
POPULAR GARDENING.
September
under a bed of leaves, an old rotten log, or
in a fence corner, where decayed leaves and
bush accumulate for years. E. A. Riehl
some time ago said that there are better wild
Blackberries than tame ones, and I am sat-
isfied that he was right.
I have had a number of new ones sent me
within the past ten years, that after fruiting
a couple of years gave me the trouble of ex-
terminating, which was all I could do. This
year my folks had but little trouble in pick-
ing this fruit, as the neighbors came and
A CALIFORNIA FRUIT PICKER.
gathered them on shares. Although the
weather was very dry for a month, they were
pretty well developed.
But of the latter half of the crop we got
but few, as an apiary of 74 colonies on the
ground took possession of the whole ground,
and as a berry came up the to mark it was at-
tacked and the juice extracted.
To this I found no objection, although the
bees are not mine, for without this big berry
patch I didn't see how the bees could have
survived, as there! was no a flower to be seen.
LucRETiA Dewberry. This is the best of
the trail berries I have yet tried. Product-
ive, of good quality, and the largest of all
my Blackberries. Mine are tied to stakes
six feet high, and while in bloom they
were quite ornamental, as also when the
fruit was ripe.
It comes quite early and lasted nearly to
end of season. It is not as sweet as some
may like, but it has a very pleasant flavor,
and will ship as well as any other I think.
At our June meeting I was reported to have
said that I would not recommend it for ex-
tensive cultivation; but under proper treat-
ment I don't see why it may not be as profit-
able as the others.
Serviceable Fruit Pickers.
The choicest specimens of Apples, Pears
and other fruits frequently hang on the
ends of the highest or furthest outside limbs,
and entirely out of reach by means of lad-
ders. A good fruit picker is therefore indis-
pensible in any well regulated orchard, and
this especially in a year like this, when fruit
is scarce, and every specimen should be
carefully saved and put to good use.
Home-made affairs, consisting forinstance
of a circular piece of inch board, with a hole
in the center for the insertion of along pole,
and pegs standing in a circle around the out-
side of the circular piece, will answer well
enough. A year or two ago we saw a pick-
ing device provided with an elongated
bag, or tube, through which the fruit could
be forwarded down to the ground.
Our illustration shows a fruit picker now
being advertised by a firm in California. It
is claimed that with this tool Apples, Apri-
cots, Peaches, Pears, Plums, Oranges and
Lemons can be picked from the tallest trees
without damaging the most delicate fruit.
In operating it the thumb is pressed on the
lower part of the handle, when the steel
wire fingers will open and form a basket in
which the fruit is received. The price asked
for the tool is two dollars.
Attaching Cards to Exhibits.
" L'TILITY." WARRE.S CO., OHIO.
In making some exhibits at the fair in
previous years I had been troubled with the
entry cards being blo\\'n about or otherwise
lost until I hit upon the simple device of
which a sketch is enclosed. You may think
it is too simple to publish but it has saved
me and those who have followed my plan
some vexation. It is the plan of attaching
the card by means of a stick that is split down
a little from one end and into which split
the card is inserted, the other end of the
stick being pointed to insert into the article
exhibited. In case of fruit or Potatoes a
large specimen may be chosen to hold the
stick that supports the card.
Dragon Flies and Their Habits.
CLARENCE M. \VEED.
One of the pleasantest summer sights in
the country is that of the graceful dragon
flies skimming over the surface of ponds
and lakes. Nearly all of our species are of
brilliant and often gaudy colors, and the
metallic lustre so common among them
adds greatly to their beauty. That few in-
sects have received more popular attention
than these is shown by the common names
they have received. We call them dragon-
flies, devil's darning needles, snake-feeders,
mosquito-hawks, and various other names.
The English sometimes term them horse-
stingers, and the Scotch, flying adders. The
French speak of them as Demoiselles or
ladies, while the Germans have called them
"Virgins of the Water."
These dragon-flies have four net-veined
wings, and a long slender body, with large
and beautiful compound eyes. One of our
commonest species is represented at Fig. 1,
Their general make-up admirably adapts
them for the swift meteor-like flight which
characterizes them.
Ijike other insects these dragon-flies un-
dergo certain changes or transformations
during their life. The adults deposit eggs
usually just beneath the surface of the water
on some reed or rubbish. These eggs soon
hatch into small larva?, which live in the
water, preying upon various other animals,
and gradually growing in size. These larva"
are often called water tigers, on account of
their voracious and predaceous habits. They
are provided with a triangular-shaped jaw,
called the mask, which has a sharp pair of
" scissors " at the end. This mask is usually
concealed beneath the head of the larv*,
but when an insect comes within reach it is
suddenly thrust out, grasping the victim
and returning to its concealed position.
These water tigers breathe the oxygen in
the water much as fishes do, but instead of
gills there are several minute tubes in the
posterior part of the body, into which the
water passes, and its oxygen is taken up by
the colorless blood of the insect. The water
then passes out to be replaced by a fresh
supply, much as air passes in and out of the
lungs of one of the higher animals. Upon
occasion these tubs may also serve for loco-
motion. Ordinarily the insect moves by its
six feet, but when it wishes to advance rap-
idly it forces the water out of these tubes,
and so .shoots ahead. This ciu'ious process
may be seen by anyone who will place some
of these larva;, which are to be found in
nearly every pool or pond, in a glass fruit
jar filled with water, and containing one or
two aquatic plants.
When the caterpillar of a butterfiy is full
grown it becomes an inactive pupaorchrys-
alis: but where one of these dragon-fly larvae
becomes a pupa (or nymph as it is more
properly called) it remains active, and
does not differ much from its larval form
(see Fig. 2), moving about as vigorously as
before. In a short time after it has become
a nymph, however, is ascends some reed or
sedge till it is above the water level and its
skin splits along the back, the adult dragon
fly crawls out, suns itself as its wings ex-
pand, and finally flies away. Tennyson, in
"The Princess," describes this process as
follows:
" To-day I saw the dragon-fly
Come from the well where he did lie—
An inner impulse rent the veil
Of his old husk; from head to tail
Tame forth clear plates of sapphire mail.
He dried liis wings; like gauze they grew;
O'er crofts and meadows wet with dew,
A living flash of light he flew."
These dragon-flies rank high among the
classes of beneficial insects. Both in their
young and adult stages they destroy large
numbers of mosquitos and similar pests,
and they doubtless render much more ser-
vice to man than they are generally given
credit for.
Oregon Fruit Notes.
E. R. LAKE, OREGON AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE.
Oregon has witnessed abnormal seasons
this year. Last winter was uncommonly
wet, and the winter rains proper histed till
well into the spring months, thus making
the season of spring from three to four weeks
late. The winter rains were followed by
drouth; the two conditions working together
caused the great dearth in small fruits and
vegetables — especially early ones— that has
been so common throughout the whole of
our state this year.
Strawberries, much smaller and poorer in
flavor than is common, sold for 10 and 1.5
cents per quart, and scarce at these figures.
Cherries were slightly injured by late
showers, but aside from that were not more
than two-thirds, and perhaps less, the ord-
inary crop. They readily sold for 30 cents
per gallon, with a brisk market. Raspber-
ries, Blackberries, Dewberries and Currants
ATTACHING CARDS TO EXHIBITS.
were a fair crop, and had a good, (juick
market at eight cents per quart. In eastern
and southern Oregon were these figures
raised quite noticeably.
Pears and Plums are our great reliables,
along with Prunes and Peaches for southern
Oregon. Peach Plums are selling at .50 to
1)0 cents per bushel, and Summer Pears, per-
haps Doyenne, at To to 80 cents. Red Astra-
chan Apples, good, bad and indifferent, at
.50 to HO cents. Generally this fruit is quite
free from codling moth this year, owing to
the fact that this pest began its work with
us very late; only rare instances of their
depredations being found earlier than July
1st. Apples, Pears, Prunes (and Peaches in
1890-
POPULAR GARDENING.
!55
Southern Oregon) are very promising so far
as quantity goes, but the proverbial slow-
ness of our people has allowed the codling
moth to make grave onslaught on the Apple
and Pear, principally the late ones. Already
the Bartlett, Baldwin, I'earmain and others
are falling in great numbers. It seems a
downright shame and crime to let such
splendid fruits as these grow to be in this
fertile valley (Willamette), go to ruin in this
way, when there is such a comparatively
ine.xpensive preventive as the arsenites.
Grapes so far are quite promising. On the
whole, while the fruit crop is smaller in
some directions than is usual, the growers
will receive liberal remuner-
ation for their outlay of time,
labor and capital. Fruit
growing in the northwest is
an assured success if followed
in a business-like way. The
fact that the fruit crop has
never yet been a failure, and
that markets for all the fruit
that can be raised are 'with-
in reasonable distances, war-
rants the statement that ere
long the northwest coast will
be the seat of an enlightened,
intelligent and progressive
horticultural interest. The
few illustrations of eastern
enterprise in the orcharding
of southern Oregon are
doing a wonderfully good ^'^' '• °^
work for our state and coast. The
large young orchards of that section will
begin to bear in a year or two, and then we
may look for a financial demonstration that
will awaken Oregon lethargy.
eailiest Haspborry. Cutlilxrt briii(<.s up the
rear in spleudul shape. Altogether small fruits
liere are a success. In July number you speak of
settintr Strawberry filants with the spade. 1
have tried this uiethod on limestone laud, but if
dry weiitlicr followed, I fouud it packed them
too close. Is there any autlioiity on (iooseborries
in the United States who will talk (iooseberries,
ami Gooseberries aliiic, with surticient know-
ledge of the subject to discriminate between
this fruit and the Currant V The latter occupies
a right royal position, hut all writers, so far as I
have seen, invariably place the two together as
far as cultivation is concerned,— H, H, Q. B.,
Eureka, Wis.
FKurrs IN Oneida Co., N, Y, I give the fol-
lowing as supplementary to Fruit and Crop Re-
COMMENTS BY READERS.
Adrpartmt^iit fo which nit aiT invitt'd to semi notes
of erperifnct' anJ observation concerning topics that
recently have been treated on in this Journal. Many
such contributions monthly are welcome.
Striped Cucumber Beetle. I have tried the
various remedies mentioned by you and other
papers, such as Persian insect powder, slug shot,
etc., with little effect. Lime dust, however,
does the business. I took several good-sized
lumps of fresh lime and put them into a coffee
sack. The lime soon logins to slack, forming a
fine dust. By shaking the sack on the wind-
ward side of the plants, the fine dust settles on
the underside of the leaves as well as on the up-
perside. I made three such applications, the dust
being more than the bugs could stand. This
remedy must be used with caution, a.s an over-
dose will injure the vines. Shake the sack at the
side of the plants, not directly over them. The
heavier particles of lime will then fall to the
ground, and only the dust will reach the plants.
The material costs but a trifle ; it takes but little
time to apply it— and it has done the work.— E.
H. Benedict, Nehraiska.
Strawberries and Peaks in Missouri. Tour ]
high praise of Bubach Strawberry is well de- I
served. It is a grand berry in every way. In
regard to Monmouth we partly agree with you.
Here it is a complete failure, and so is the May
King, both varieties heralded as the best among
the earlies. Yesterday we cut some five or six
feet from the top of a Le Conte *' blight-proof"
Pear tree, on account of blight. Seckel, Duchess,
etc, are all right.— Sub., Jefferson City, Ho.
Trellislsg Tomatoes. I have this year dis-
carded hoops or frames, and allowed the vines to
run on the ground, placing under them the short
grass cut from the lawn. I find the vines much
stronger, the fruit less liable to rot, and attain,
ing a much larger and more perfect form. That
the plan coincides with nature is shown by the
numerous fibers projected through the dry grass
into the earth. The plan admits the light and
air and the dry grass keeps the fruit clean, and
puts a stop to the growth of weeds, at the same
time keeping the soil moist.— H". J. Smve, Ihi.
Page Co., III.
Small Fruits in Wisconsin. The Jessie gave
a splendid crop. It ripened a few days later than
several other sorts. Our season usually lasts
from June 13th to July 9th. The Turner is our
AGON FLY, ADULT AND LARVA. See preeeediny pane .
ports; Apples failed to fertilize blossom^ ]
and crop nearly a failure; Pears as reported
medium crop; Strawberries failed to fertilize—
crop one third ; Currants the same ; Gooseberries
superb crop ; Raspberries, Blackberries, Quinces
the same ; Cherries, good ; Plums, moderate.
All crops that were overtaken in bloom by the
cold wet of middle May, were seriously damaged ,
—pollen ruined.— B. P. Powell.
The Japan Quince. When you say, " Don't
be persuaded that it has any value as a fruit etc,"
I can only reply: Don't be too sure of it. Per-
haps you are right ; but it is not well to be too
certain of what may be developed from this
now much despised fruit. Thirty years ago
when I began to talk about the native Rasp-
berries as promising to give us more valuable
varieties than could be obtained from Europe
or the European species, my good old friend.
Chas. Downing, wrote me, "you are all wrong ;
it can't be done.' Well, they are here never-
theless, and the European Raspberry and all its
American seedlings are nearly or Quite obsolete.
We have already a great variety of Japan
Quince fruit, varying in size from a quail's egg
up to that of the goose and there is also a good
difference in quality, i'. e. testure and flavor. I
am very much inclined to think there will be
excellent edible varieties in market not many
years hence.— .,4 ndrew S. Fuiter,
Fall or Sprlng for Planting, Where
trees are procured when fully matured, my ex- '
perience is in favor of fall planting for Apple,
Pear, Plum and Cherry ; and spring planting for
Peach, Apricot, and Evergreens and small fruits.
The season preceding the setting out has a bear-
ing on how early or how late in the fall trees
should be procured ; that is, if trees ripen up
early they can be set with great assurance by
the 10th of October, but should the season be
such as to promote late growth, which frequent-
ly occurs, it is not best to plant before the Sth
of October, and my experience in handling trees
bears me out that halt the loss occassioned by
fall planting is caused by trees being moved
Ixifore the wood is full.v ripened. Several years
ago we had occasion to strip and dig a lot of
trees about September SJrd, and it happened i
that the boys in stripping had taken the leaves j
off of a few that were of a smaller size than
those ordered. The ensuing spring quite a
numl>er of the trees were dead, and on careful
investigation we discovered that those dead were
the ones stripped and left over for spring. Now
a great deal is said about heeling in trees over
winter; but few have assigned reasons tor so
doing. Trees procured late in fall, if not too
dry to plant, should be set at once, but if the |
trees are received early or show signs of shrink- !
ing caused by improper handling, or being dug
Fitf. i
too early, it is liest to heel in until spring. For
spring planting procure your Strawberries as
early as weather and ground permits which with
us is from 20th of March to the 1st of April.
Small fruits such as .Strawbeiries, Riispberries,
etc., should not lie tied up and shipped in such a
manner as to cause " heating." It is best to have
them sent by Express in crates prepared for
giving plenty of air, and not pa»-ked too tight.
Fruit trees are best set in this latitude from the
.'ith to 20th of April which enables them to re-
ceive the fall benefit of the early rains, and thus
to get well started to growing before our usua*
dry siJell sets in The proper time to set Ever-
greens we Ijelieve to be from the Ist to the 20th
of May, as they do not do well in chilly weather,
and should lie handled and planted carefully
Trees procured in fall should be"
heeled in, as any that are with-
ered will fill out and be ready to
grow soon as set, whereas if
planted at once the chances are
that such trees will die. How-
ever, should you receive trees
that you know are freshly dug
and fully matured, my ad\dce is
to set at once if your ground
is ready for them. Be careful
in selecting varieties, planting
but few kinds in large orchards,
and w-hen set for your own use,
select such as do well and suit
your own needs without refer-
ence to market. If you are not
sufficiently posted leave the
selection to someone who is, and
be sure to plant carefully and
give proper attention to their
culture. My experience is that
the majority of trees but little
when once established, do not cause much
trouble to be kept growing nicely.— H. IF. Pree-
inan, Montgomery Co., O.
Fruit Outlook in Ohio, Since sending you
the fruit estimate I find Apples are a total fail-
ure through this section, also Pears and Plums,
only a few of last two. Raspberries have been
higher in Cleveland market than for many years
past. Grape crop a good fair average ;with in-
creased acreage.— £. H. Cushman, Pre.<<. Eastern
Cuyahoga Co. Hort. Soc.
The Bordeaux Mixture. You have not got
the Bordeaux mixture <iuite right on page 345,
and you are not definite enough about the mix-
ing. As I have helped mix about 1800 lbs. of
sulphate the two past seasons, I think I know
how it should be done. The recipe is 6 lbs, of sul-
phate of copper and four of lime. Take two
barrels and put the sulphate in one, and lime in
the other. I use about three gallons of boiling
water for each, and stir till dissolved, and then
let stand till cold. I usually mix a lot a day or
two before using. When cold pour one of these
lots slowly into the other, and stir well while
doing it. Then add enough water to make 22
gallons. If it is mixed hot it will thicken up,
and then it will take two or three days to dis-
solve. I am afraid the ti lbs. lime in your recipe
would make it to thick for the spray. When
ready to use stir it and let it settle for a few
minutes and dip from the top, leaving the sedi-
ment in the barrel. I have not tried the ammo-
nical mixture, but shall next season if those
using it this season report favorably of it, as it
is a good deal of trouble t« prepare the Bordeaux
mixture. The surest way is to spray and than
bag the Grapes,— G. B. W.. Warsaw, 111.
Birds and Grapes. I have 18 different
varieties of Grapes, among them the Brighton
and Bacchus. I notice that the robin and
blue jay are the birds that attack the Grapes.
They devour them as they do Cherries, especially
the Bacchus they being small and therefore
more con\'enient to swallow, T have frequently
caught them in the act, and one robin will make
way with a bunch of Grapes at one meal or
sitting. I have never seen the sparrow, cat-bird,
or any other bird attack the Grapes. It often
happens that some Grapes in a bunch will crack
open ; then the bees will get their work in ; but
they will not puncture a Grape if uninjured or
not cracked. I have stood by and watched them
at work. I will add that of all the Grapes I cul-
tivate there is nothing to equal the Goethe for
quality, appearance, productiveness, I have
sold Goethe at '25 cents iier pound, when others
sold at from three to eight cents. Some bunches
were green, some amber, some purple in color;
but all ripe and splendid,— V. Boisaubiii.
256
POPULAR GARDENING.
September,
Wild Flowers of Illinois.
G. L, B., COOK CO., UX.
Much as I. love my home garden, I still
hold my love for the wild things of nature
in the woods, meadows and prairies: all the
changing aspects which they take on in the
procession of the seasons, from the yellow-
ing of the Willow's twigs and the reddening
of the Dogwoods in February and March,
through the budding, leafing, blossoming,
fruiting and withering, down to the last of
the Asters, Golden Rods and Blue Gentians
that hardly leave us before the snow is on
the ground. And loving these things as 1
do, it seemed to
me that some
other readers of
this paper would
be glad to hear of
some of the plants
that grow on the
Illinois prairies.
In going to and
from the city every
day by train, we
go for several
miles through vir-
gin prairie, and at
this season, early
August, it is a
blaze of flowers:
mostly composites
of various sorts.
And while it is not
yet late enough
for the wild As-
ters and Golden
Rods, we stUl have
a great showing.
The big yellow
blossoms of the
Rosin Weeds, two
varieties, stand
high above all, and
face the sun a-
round in its half
circuit, while their
broad, stiff leaves
in one variety, in
the other almost
entire, divided
almost to the mid
rib, stand erect,
with their faces
almost true east
and west, their
edges north and
south, from which
is derived their
other common
name, Compass
Plant.
The "Blazing
Star" (Liatris), in
several varieties,
comes next, and
holds up its tall,
lilac -purple, club-
and fruit, make the prairies and waysides
a source of great delight to me.
A pretty thing I noticed from the train
one morning recently was a new wo ven wire
fence, extending along parallel with the
track across a broad meadow. It was no
sooner up than the wild Convolvulus
(hitherto content to spread along the bank
of a ditch ) found in the fence the opportunity
of a lifetime, and straightway converted
itself into pickets: pointed, slender, green
pickets, with pink waving flowers flung out
from either side. It made a fence pretty
enough to enclose a section of fairy land.
DAFFODIL STELLA,
Shaped spikes as high as it can, and makes
a good record in height to the "Rosin
Weed." Some of the tall spikes noticed to-
day as just opening, stood almost six feet.
Below these leaders are a host of smaller
ones. Yellow " Composites" in many varie-
ties of the Sunflower tj-pe, white ones with
a yellow centre (Erlgeron), which the little
folks call "Daisies." And then lower still,
not more than a foot or fifteen inches from
the ground, a perfect carpet is seen of the
little globes of the white and pink blossoms
of the Wild Onion.
And we must not forget to mention the
"Button Snake Root " (Kryngium Yucca-
folium), standing from three to live feet
high, with its whitish stem and Yucca-like
leaves, and roimd button balls of tiny white
blossoms, standing up so stiffly and yet so
gracefully. All these things, with the
grasses, rushes and sedges.now in full bloom
As Sketched on the Pupular Gardening Grr/unds.
and yet it only served to keep the cows off
from the railroad track.
About Two Narcissuses— The
" Flower of the Poets."
Of the two varieties of Dafliodils shown in
the annexed engravings, the first, Stella, has
proven to be well adapted to naturalization
in the wild garden at the Popular Gar-
DEXING Grounds: the other has not yet been
tested in our grounds. The variety Stella
belongs to the medium Trumpet or Eucharis-
flowered section of Daffodils, and is one of
loveliest of easily grown plants. The color
of the outer whorl is creamy white — the cup
lemon yellow. The entire flower and form
of growth is marked by extreme beauty and
delicacy, hence it is not strange that it is
one of the most popular forcing and cutting
varieties for the flower market.
The fact that this fine variety succeeds so
readily without garden culture as has here
been exemplified, is a strong mark in its
favor. Late in the season two years ago we
were in the store of a Buffalo dealer in
bulbs when he offered some surplus
bulbs of this and several other varieties of
Narcissus at a figure which induced us to
purchase several dozen of each as a start
towards stocking our wild garden. The
season (far into November) was late for
planting such bulbs, but nevertheless the
planting was done on a sloping bank where
second growth trees about one-half shade
the surface, and
here they were left
to thrive as they
would. Of the
several varieties
thus set out the
line here figured
has done the best
by long odds, hav-
ing the past season
rewarded us with
a profuse crop of
bloom.
The Stella is
therefore a varie-
ty of the hand-
somer single Nar-
cissus that we take
especial pleasure
in recommending
to our readers.
The bulbs may
now be bought at
a low price of all
leading dealers in
Dutch bulbs. Suc-
ceeding as the var-
iety so readily does
in the wild garden
it should do even
better under culti-
vation, pro^^ded
the planting be
done in a compar-
atively dry .spot, as
on well-drained
soil or on a gentle
slope.
The Queen
Ann's Double
IlaffodU (Narcis-
sus Capex pleno)
is now being quo-
ted in the cata-
logues of some
leading Bulb deal-
ers. It is one of
the rarest and
handsomest vari-
eties of Double
Narcissus ui culti-
vation. Although
it is scarely famil-
iar to the average
I cultivator, yet it seems to have been known
to Parkinson in the reign of Queen Anne. It
belongs to the trumpet section of the family,
a fact hardly to be suspected by the engrav-
ing annexed, for it is so full in respect to
multiplication of parts that the normal form
is quite disguised. The size and peculiarity
of its form is emphasized by its name Cai)cx
plcno, which indicates a capacious double
flower.
The blooms have the remarkable star
shape sho^vn in the engraving, the sections
of the perianth being arranged in regular
layers of sis parts. The color is an exquisite
pale lemon yellow and the plant is dwarf.
In common with all the smaller growing
Daffodils this variety prefers a rich dry
loam abounding in sand, but no rank
manure of any sort. The position should
be fairly sunny: the bulbs should be set not
too deeply. It is an exquisite variety for
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
257
forcing in a cool pit, this bcinj; in<lce(l the
treatment from wliich in our climate the
best results should be expected.
It may be well to add at this season of
planting DatTodils, that a deep, moist soil is
the one chief requisite for obtaining a free
growth and abundant bloom of the larger
varieties, while the smaller kinds prefer a
drier soil. All love a humid atmosphere,
and as the shelter of trees and shrubs favors
humidity, it follows that the family will
thrive better where such growths are
abundant than elsewhere. Clumps
growing in an exposed situation, sub-
ject to winds unbroken by trees, will
not do nearly as well as the same
varieties favored by shelter and more
moisture in the air.
The variety comprised in this family
is now something quite wonderful.
Formerly there were twenty -one species
recognized, but later classifications by
the Daffodil Conference of Great
Britain has reduced these to thirteen.
They are all plants of Europe, being
found wild throughout the region of
the Mediterranean. Including the
varieties with the species and fully
600 distinct Daffodils are numbered.
with bright pink tlowers, and those with
flowers of a tolerably good blue are not un-
frequently met with in positions near each
other, and apparently in soils exactly alike,
while plants grown in an ordinary manner
for the most part have either all pink or all
blue flowers, as the circumstances of their
abode may determine. That every attempt
to change the color of Hydrangeas is not
attended with the desired success is a fact,
and the many failures which have occurred
A Cheap Plant Box.
In former years when the writer was
extensively engaged in the plant and
flower-growing business, he found use
for many boxes of the style shown in
the accompanying engraving. The
boxes were made of rough pine inch
boards, six inches wide and with the
sides and ends flaring slightly, to ad-
mit of readily removing the earth at
any time. The inside width of the
boxes at the top was about eight inches
and tw-o inches less at the bottom. The
bottom board was about two inches shorter
than the opening, in order to admit of a
small space at each end for affording ample
drainage.
The use these boxes was put to, was that
of receiving lifted plants from the lot in
September, such as were designed for stock,
plants for propagating purposes and also
plants being grown for cut flowers. Their
advantages were that they answered as a
good substitute for pots, but without the
danger of breakage. They were less ex-
pensive than pots, plants in them required
less care in watering, as the boxes retained
moisture better than pots. By their use
greenhouse plants could be lifted and con-
veniently stored under some temporary
structure of sash, for weeks after the first
frosts and then be removed to the green-
house, thus giving those that were moved
directly into the structure ample space
until they become adapted to the quarters.
^fti advantage to the plants in such boxes
over setting them directly into beds, is that
HOME-MADE PLANT BOX.
the space can readily be suited to their
growth — that is when plants are first
brought in, the boxes may stand perhaps
one against the other, but as growth pro-
ceeds they can be spread somewhat. These
boxes were home-made.
Hydrangeas with Blue Flowers.
" J " IN JorRNAL OF HORTICUI.TCRE.
The variable character of Hydrangea
Bowers when the plant is grown under cer-
tain circumstances has for many years been
a sort of horticultural puzzle, wliich is still
far from being satisfactorily solved. Plants
QUEEN ANN'S DOUBLE DAFFODIL.
have led to the conclusion that the proper
means to accomplish the end in view are
not yet sutflciently understood.
Some time ago it was pointed out that
iron rust would not always effect the change
in color so much desired. But certain it is
that the removal of a plant from a soil in
which this element Is only foimd in very
minute particles to one in which it exists in
greater abundance does not tor some time
-produce any change, yet that a change does
eventually take place in most cases (not aU),
is also generally admitted.
In general, Hydrangeas growing in a
peaty soil flower blue, while those in soil of
an opposite character produce pink flowers,
but there are exceptions in both cases. As
a proof that iron alone will not always
change a pink Hydrangea into a blue one, I
may mention that large quantities of that
metal have been at times added to the soil
without the desired effect. Neither has
alum dissolved in the water applied to the
plants been always attended with success.
On the other hand, now and then a plant
will produce blue flowers without apparent
cause.
Time is always required; a plant that has
been growing under conditions favorable to
the productions of pink flowers will not
produce blue in the first season that it is re-
moved to a soil where blue flowers are the
rule. This slow change is easily accounted
for, as the Hydangea sets its bloom buds in
the preceding autumn, and their expansion
the following season will be in accordance
with the character of the material in which
they have been formed, but in course of
time, in consequence of the new food, the
juices of the plant become changed, and
the flowers of another character are pre-
pared. This change may possibly not be
effected, even in the second year, as I have
witnessed, but it is sure to follow.
Notwithstanding the general hardiness of
the Hydrangea, in some cases where it has
been injudiciously planted out in a damp
situation its summer growth is not suffi-
ciently ripened before winter sets in, and
there is consequently no blossom. A low
damp situation is by no means suitable to
it ; a dry, sunny, and airy one is more in
accordance with its wants, and I believe the
largest plant I ever saw of it was in a very
exposed situation in Northumberland, ele-
vated considerably above the surrounding
country, but at the same time dry, the sub-
soil being the loose shatter stone overlying
a freestone quarry. This plant flowered
pink, as might be expected from such
a soil; but if it had been growing in a
valley not more than a stone's throw
* from its position, in all probability it
would have produced blue flowers, if
indeed it had bloomed a tall, as a black
peat morass of considerable depth
formed the base of this quarry.
It is remarkable that few, if any,
plants show such a difference in the
character of their flowers as the Hy-
drangea does when planted in soils
favoring the two extremes. Most
plants to which chemical and other
substances are sometimes applied ex-
hibit a difference in their general
health as well as in their foliage, but
the Hydrangea possesses as robust
health in the one condition as in the
other; at the time we may be right in
assuming pink to have been the
original color. Its change to blue
seems to be due to soluable substance
contained in the soil and taken up by
the plant, and carried through its
system into the flower buds.
I cannot conclude without advert-
ing to a very common disappoint-
ment—namely, that this plant will
not produce blue flowers when grown
in a pot and in peat soil, and water
impregnated, perhaps with chalk or lime,
is supplied to it from a well. Water of
this kind neutralizes the effects of the peat
and the flowers are pink instead of blue, I
believe many of the so-called failures in ob-
taining blue flowers arise from this and
similar causes. Those, therefore, who ex-
pect to have blue flowers on Hydrangeas
ought to be careful what description of
water is supplied them, and it is not too
much to say that this has really more to do
with the success of the plants than the soil
they are grown in; but to make doubly
sure the one as well as the other ought to
be duly attended to.
2,006. Winter Covering for Fansies, Spinach,
Etc. The virtues of Evergreen boughs tor cov-
ering plants needing slight protection from cold,
or from the influences of changes in temperature,
are not yet appreciated as they deserve. Forest
leaves, where to be had in quantity, also serve a
good purpose, and Pine boughs or Cornstalks put
over them will keep than in place and add to
the protection. Evergreen boughs placed over
Pansies are also useful in keeping fowls away,
and save the buds that are threatened from that
source. Of course, any coarse material, weeds,
straw, marsh hav. etc . can be used for covering
also.-G. R.
1,8.18. Melon Blight. It has often puzzled us
to find a cause of the sudden withreingand dying
of Melon and Cucumber vines. The trouble
seems to begin with the leaves, which die down
while no indication of any trouble whatever is to
be found on any part of the stalk or root. What
to do to prevent this disease, we do not know,
e-xcept it be planting on new ground. There is
another disease, which manifests itself in the
leaves becoming spotted with greyish-white dis-
colorations, turning to brown, and causing a de-
crease in the vigor and vitality of the plant.
This is caused by the same fungus which attacks
Bean vines, and causing the disease known as
authraconse of the Bean. ReUable remedies for
this have not yet been found. In many cases
however, the withering and dying of the plants is
not the result of disease, but of the attacks of
the larva of the yellow-striped Cucumber bee-
tle, which gnaws and sucks at the root part of
the plant. Whether this can be reached and
killed by applications, such as Tobacco tea, salt-
peter water, etc, we can not yet positively af-
flrm.— E. R.
258
POPULAR GARDENING.
September,
September.
Have you seen the pretty fairy
Walking wltii a manner airy
Through the earth.
Gilding vines on hut and castle,
Lingering where the Corn-stalk's tassel
Nods in mirth?
She's a dainty little creature,
Fair in form and every feature ;
Shaded blue
Is the dress her form adorning—
'Tis a glory of the morning,
Sprent with dew.
Silvery Luna's beams her hair Is,
And within her hand she carries
• Golden rod.
Touching with It fruits by magic.
While the leaves in ending tragic
Strew the sod .
—Culumbus Dispatch.
Apple-Tree Inn.
When in the country, and I would dine
Of the best inn I know the sign ;
A golden Apple swings in the breeze.
Inviting me there to rest at ease.
Under the good old Apple-tree-
There is the jolliest inn for me.
The kindest host and daintiest food,
The sweetest drink and all that's good.
And under that roof of purest green
Many light- winged guests are seen ;
By the landlord's self is a bed for me made.
And he covers me over with coolest of shade.
And when I ask what I have to pay.
He shakes his head in a curious way.
How quickly he knows a poor poet like me~
In that inn freely welcome — the Apple-tree.
—From the German by Geo. Birdseye.
It is Aster time.
Stake the Ricinius plants.
Tie up the plants as they need it.
DuBt is iii't relished by the pot plants.
Oh! Jack Frost, how we detest your visits.
Hyacinths must be started at once to flower at
■ (^'hristmas.
How grateful the Roses seem to be for a little
hoeing amc^ng the beds !
For a delightful arbor the Weeping Elm or
A.sh is well nigh matchless.
If winter bloom is desirable, hold some of the
flowering plants in check now.
Nitrate of soda this year has given us little or
no effect on Tomatoes and Potatoes.
Toads cat Potato beetles. Squash bugs and
other disgusting, niah:)dorous creatures.
The Garden Carpet. How soft an even, vel-
vety lawn feels under our feet, and how hard the
gravel walk!
The Inter-state Fair at Trenton, N. J., will be
held September :.".* and HO, and (October 1, 2 and
3, of this year.
A Secret of the Trade. The largest Chrysan-
themums for exhibition are grown where only
one bud is left on each branch or shoot.*
The nnfermented Juice of the Grape as a bev-
erage is gaining in popularity. We hope its in-
troduction and use will t)ecome general.
Bnssian Sunflower seed, as almost all seeds of
an i>il.v nature, will tempt rats and mice, when
other bait fails t<i induce'them to ent<?r a trap.
Seeds of the Yellow Locust are quite sure to
germinate even if sown by inexperienced people.
For planting on land claims this tree is therefore
one of the best.
The Japanese Snowball when seen in the height
of the blooming season, makes many people
thiiik of planting one in fall or spring aft«r.
Such good resolves should now soon be fulfilled.
The Cortland Orape, which originated in
Canada, is claimed to be the earliest of all native
vaiieties— three to four weeks earlier than Con-
cord, and similar to it in appearance and quality.
Prepare support for the Gladioli either a
trellis to which they can be fastened or plant the
bulbs in a square with a strong stake in the
center to which the top-heavy stalks can be tied.
— Argiinni!*.
Hardy Bhododendrons. The following are
named by Mr. Meehan as among the best, quite
hardy and affording a good variety of color:
Rhodndendron elegana, white; B. cuerentianum,
rosy lilac; R. roseum cUgan.'t, rosy pink; E. Chan-
cellor, purplish rose; Mrs. Milner, crimson; R.
purpurcum gramlitlonim, large purple.
Garden Bag. For all around garden work one
needs, knife, shears, string, labels, and in put-
ting up climbers tacking material. The idea of a
garden bag of leather for carrying such arti-
cles, and flgured on this page is from the English
suppl.v house of Osmond ,Jt- Co. .London, England,
who keep the bags in stock.
Mushroom Growing Profitable. Wm. Falconer
some time ago heard of a man in New Jersey
" who grows Mushrooms in cellars and has made
lots of money at it." An.tious to see the man,
and learn all he could about it, he called at the
house; but although he talked his prettiest, and
used every persuasion and persistence, the family
would not only refuse to let him see inside the
cellars, but they would not even let him see the
man himself. "What is the meaning of all this
secrecy?" he says. " There is money in it."
The California coyote is going to be bred in
Australia as a rabbit exterminator. The Cali-
fornia fruit grower comments on this in a hum-
orous strain. Who knows, it says, but what the
coyote under the influence of the Australian
Government may develop admirable traits of
character, which were never even suspected in
his old home? Australia gave us the lady bug,
which is a quiet, respectable, thrifty insect We
reciprocate by donating to our sister country the
festive coyote, with the howl thrown in. If
.•Australia can breed a new tune for her parasite,
it will tend to greatly enhance its popularity.
Geranium cuttings are easily injured by over-
watering. The method practiced at Lincoln Park,
Chicago, is to take cuttings from bedded plants
in latter part of .September. They are then
properly trimmed and placed in the sand beds in
the greenhouses, the sand having first been well
wet down. More water is applied to settle the
sand around them, but no more water is given
them for about ten days, or until the cuttings
are calloused. In bright days they are occa-
sionally syringed if the foliage shows signs of
wilting. The aim is to give them as little water
as possible until bottom heat is supplied, and
more liVieral waterings are necessary.
The Public Boads. The common errors in our
road building are (1) rounding the road into a
ridge with the notion of securing drainage. The
result is ruts, because all wheels move nearly in
one track. Widen out your road track. (2) Dirt
roads are alwa.vs patched and never made. You
cannot mend a road to advantage till you haNe
first made it. Do your work thoroughly as far
as you go. (3) The grade is in almost all cases
too steep. Three inches for a wide road bed is
enoiigh. But an association in each county would
soon revolutionize the land. Our American roads
are our shame. They are our costliest public en-
terprise, because all expenditures on them go to
wast^.— B. P. Pou'ell.
For a continual display of flowers, the garden
should be supplied with jierennials and hard.v
bulbs in abundance. Many of the earliest flower-
ing plants can be procured from our woods, are
perfectly hardy, and repay culture by increased
size and abundance of bloom. C)f these we raa.v
name, Erythronium, Cypripedium, Mertensia,
Dicentra cucularia, Polemonium, Wild Ger-
anium, Violets, and Ferns in variety, and many
othei'S. The beds containing Tulips, Erythi'oni-
ums and others that die down to the ground
aft<.'r flowering can be planted with various
anntmls, those that do not have long roots being
bettt'r for this purpose, as then the bulbs are
not disturbed.— .4 rffj/)i»i.s.
Elm Types. Have you ever noticed how many
different types there are of the common White
Elm? I wonder if any nurseryman has ever tried
to propagate any given type. There is as much
difference in Elms as there is in Apple trees; and
the different kinds of Apple trees all grow after
a fashion of their own. Xo one who knows any-
thing about them w(<uld mistake a Willow Twig
tree for a Red Astrachan, and 1 frequently see
two Elm trees growing side by side that are just
as different in habit. It would cost but little
more to bud the trees than it does to grow them
from seed simply, and with a judicious selection,
their value for average purposes would certainly
be doubled.— .S. W. M., IHs State Experiment Sta.
The Water Supply and Irrigation.— Irrigation
is spoken of as a system applicable only to the
western lands ; but it is quite as valuable applied
to our eastern States. We are liable to loose
about one crop out of four or five by a dry spell.
We have no provision against this. It would be
a simple and inexpensive affair with man.v far-
mers to have provision made to utilize brooks
to prevent 'serious loss. If you investigate you
will be astonished to see how few farmers have a
proper supply of wells. I have three and will
soon have four ; and none to many. When
brooks fall, the cattle suffer. Wells will'not
cost one hundreth part the loss from shrinkage
of milk and time wasted in driving cows to
larger streams.— E. P. P.
Bue Anemone. Anemones are just now claim-
ing considerable attention. One of the prettiest
as well as one of the most common of this inter-
esting genus, is the pretty Rue Anemone of our
woods I Anemone thalictroides). Putting forth
its elegant leaves, soon followed by the delicate
pink and whit« flowers in early spring, it well
deserves a shady nook in our garden where it
will thrive as contentedly as in its native haunts.
The number of sepals in the corolla of the little
plant varies. Often one can be found double,
nearly to the centre, but the number is more
often five or six. In beauty of foliage it cannot
be surpassed, and the flowers are as lasting as
almost any of our cultivated species. In April
and May our woods are full of these little *' har-
bingers of spring" vielng with the creamy
flowers of the Bloodroot, the graceful sprays of
wild Dicentra, and the showy Crowfoot and
Phlox.— Aruynnis IbetTiile.
Fine Gardening Contagious. Mr.R.Hager, one
of our subscribers who lives in Buffalo, visited
the Popular Gardening Grounds a year ago
this summer. He was so favorably impressed by
a bed on our lawn occupied by plants having
foliage of a showy color, that he not only set out
a similar bed on his own grounds the past spring,
but he is now warmly urging the superintendent
of the Buffalo parks, Mr. McMillan, to do like-
wise to the extent of a large bed of the same at-
tractive character, at some point in the parks.
What are the growths in the bed referred to?
Tender Coleus, Centaureas or similar plants on
which It is generally supposed we must depend
for such effects? The stock in the bed consists of
a dozen shrubs of the magnificent Blood-leaved
Plum iPrunnx Pisxm'di) at the center and sur-
rounded by twenty others of the Variegated-
leaved Cornelian Cherry (('orniis mascula fol-
var.), a plant with leaves, the surface of which is
more than one-half white. Both of the growths
are inexpensive and entirely hardy; once they
are planted they will thrive and be handsome
for many years to come. Our subscriber's sug-
gestion to the park superintendent is a good one.
Such a bed won Id be an attractive feature in any
public garden, and no less so in private grounds.
Care of House Plants. One of the most fre-
quent queiies adderessed to us for replj'isthat
about cause and cure for the dropping of the
leaves of hou.se plants. Wherever this occurs,
we may be sui-e, the health of the plant is im-
paired in some way. The plant may have been
kept too warm, or too cold, given too
much water or not enough of it; it may have
LEATHER GARDEN BAG.
been injured bj" crowding or with strfing stimu
lauts, or allowed to become pot boinid. The first
thing to be d(meis tomake a thorough e.vamina-
tion. Knock the plant out of the pot and see if
the soil is too dry or too wet, or whether the
feeding roots are destroj'cd. Injudicious water-
ing or applications af strong liquid manure— the
ti'eatment usually given without further exam-
ination—may result in the death of the plant.
Sick people cannot be cured by crowding them
with victimls. Repotting in light and rich, rather
dry soil, especially if a new or freshly cleansed
pot is used, will give relief in most cases. The
pot need not be larger than to give about an
inch of soil around the ball of roots. Plunge it
into a half shady bench, or a box of soil, water
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
259
enougta to settle the soil around the roots, and
(ri\o no more water until now, vlirorous growth
coniinonci'S. The soil shoul.l be liept moist all
thni\itrh, Imt never wet for any lenstli of time.
Waste Lands for Fruit and Forests. Prof.
Ma.vnarci ealls attentiini to the faet that Apple
trees reraarlialile for tlieir thrift and vigor are
often found on land so ningh and stony that it
cannot be eulti\nted. The fruit prodneed upon
sueh land is noted for its high eolor and rieh
flavor, and for long-keeping qualities. There
are thousands upon thousands of aeres of this
kind of land, and much of it is almost worthless
for any other purpose than forestry and the
production of the large fruits, and if proper-
ly cared for, it would in a few years give a ^
large income for the investment In plant-
ing such land particular care must lie given
to the preparation ot the soil directly
around the tree, and to saving the material -
often found growing upon it, sueh as Sedges,
brush, etc., or obtained elsewhere to be
used for mulch, to prevent the escape of
the moisture that is rapidly carried away
by the leaves or grasses and other plants.
The advantages claimed for the turf system
arc, that the trees mature their wood much
earlier in the autumn, and consequently
are less liable to injury from cold; the
roots arc protected from injury from the
extremes of heat and cold by the grass roots;
the trees begin tiearing much earlier and
bear more regularly, the fruit is of better
quality and keeps longer; the cost of land
and cultivation is much less, while a satisfac-
tory growth may be obtained by the use
of a small amount of fertilizer applied to
the surface.
Educational Effect of Flowers. One of the
city paper thinks it would be interesting to
know just what is the educating effect upon
that part of the city's youth which might
be called the "pavement population," of
the sight of flowers the year through. Dur-
ing the winter months flowers are at least
always -lisible, and during the summer
months they fairly overflow the city— in the
florists' windows, in great clusters on street
corners, and, best of all, in living profusion
in the parks. It is not wholly fancy, perhaps,
that all this has more than a slightly refining in-
fluence upon these young souls into whose lives
comes so little that makes for the amenities of
life. It is a good thing for a child to learn to love
a flower. In learning that he has learned much
more. His imagination has been drawn upon,
his delicacy ot sentiment has been quickened,
and the Sender feeling for one kind of natural
beauty goes hand in hand with a feeling of other
kinds. Because a boy loves a Rose he is more
likely to love a bird, and when he loves a bird he
has begun the lesson of fencer affection for all
things great and small which helps in the making
of every grace of character. And so one should
be glad ot the Roses on the street corners— glad
both with the eye and the heart -and of the
Tulips in the parks in their season, and for the
Water Lilies when they come, and for the glow-
ing Geraniums, and for every unkempt little
fellow who stands gazing with intent eyes at
their beauty. He is taking in lessons, perhaps,
that neither teacher nor preacher could give him.
The Freesia. Among the bulbous plants that
will be potted up during the coming month none
are more fragrant than the Kreesias. These
lovely bulbous flowers are native of the Cape of
Good Hope, and make their growth during the
dull months of the year, so consequently will
not endure the least amount of frost. A tem-
perature of about .56° is the best in which to grow
them; they delight in a light, rich loam. The
bulbs should be potted as soon as attainable,
potting about eight bulbs in a five inch pot.
When all have been potted they should receive a
good watering, and then be placed in cold frame
and covered a few inches deep with some material
that will keep them moist and thus dispense with
the necessity of again watering. If too much
water is given before they begin to grow they
will rot, but when they have started, liberal
amounts may be given. Before the weather be-
comes severe the pots should be removed to the
greenhouse and stood on a shelf where they may
obtain plenty of light. The flowers are white,
and borne on a moderately long stalk; they are
beU-shaped but not pendant. The stalk takes a
graceful curve, and on the upper part of this
curve the flowers stand erect. They are de-
liciously fragrant, and pots of blooming plants
stood in the drawing room have a very pleasant
effect. The flowers are very useful for making
up into bouquets, as they last a long time when
out. If these llowera were raised in ciuantities
in the south they would And a ready sale during
the winter montlis in northern towns.— H. W.
Smith, Lonixiatia.
The Uimulus or Monkey flower, is reported by
llortcuse Share as being a most satisfactory
plant tor the windowlgarden, summer or winter.
When once grown, one wonders how it escaped
notice so long. The flowers are showy and bril-
liant in color; bright yellow spotted with crimson
and brown. Some varieties are as distinctly
THE RUE ANEMONE. (See opposite page.)
marked as a spotted Calceolaria; some too are
duplex in form— one flower growing out of the
other- just as in the long ago when we played
among the flowere we stuck Kour-o-clooks
together, and made chains and wreaths of Lark-
spurs. The leaves of one variety have a strong,
musky odor; many of the new French varieties
are far ahead ot the old sorts. A packet of mixed
seed can be had of most florists for 10 cents— and
out of this small sum you will get more real en-
joyment than'Jrom a dollar's worth of some other
plants that are hard to rear. The seeds are very
small and should be sown very thinly on the
surface in pots of damp sifted soil. Do not cover,
only press the seed down gently with the back
ot a spoon. Dip a flannel cloth in tepid water
and cover the earth with it; set in a sunny
window and in a few days the tiny plants show
like a green fuzz. Then remove the cloth. After
the plants get a little size, bunches of them are
taken up with a spoon and set in pots or boxes
of rich light soil— half leaf mould, half good
garden earth, with enough sand to make it light.
They must have good drainage and plenty of
water, for they are thirsty plants. Some varieties
have a drooping habit, and are fine for hanging
baskets. After blooming all summer some of the
plants can be trimmed closely, repotted in fresh
soil and make flne window plants tor winter; or
a few seeds can be sown in early autumn for the
same purpose.
Chat on Maklng-Up Flowers,
The average bouquet culled from the garden
consists of too many flowers, it is a crowded
mass of bloom instead of a charming nosegay,
in which the individual flowers show to the
best advantage.
That the crowding of the material in any flower
arrangement is a mistake is easily susceptible of
proof. Let the reader take a liberal quantity of
bloom and arrange it in a single large bunch;
then take an exactly similar lot and divide it
into two or three bouquets spreading the flowers
somewhat so as to have the outlines of each
about equal in size to the first one made, and note
the superior results from an equal quantity of
flowers. This test, however, presupposes the
use of ordinary garden blooms cut with long
stems, some of them to be very long, say 18 inches
or two feet in length. This is a point in it!»elf
not sufhciently appreciated. For to arranging
advantageously one should employ an abun-
dance of long stems. Indeed it such stems are
naturally lacking it may be well to follow the
florists and provide suital>lc artificial stems.
In the making of every kind ot bouquets we
may take some most useful lessons from the
commercial florist. Where flowers have a money
value it of course increases the profits to be
able to make any given quantity go as far as
possible. And yet the spreading out of blooms
may be caricd far with no disadvantage
to the buyer. The ideal bouquet has every
flower uncrowded.
Where the stems of flowers are short, or
the ob.1ect is to tie aflat or rounded hand boti-
quet, how is one to proceed in spreading the
bloomsV Let us watch the commercial florist
tie up a nosegay. In the first place if any
flowers ai-e too slender to be stiffly supported
by their own stems, or the stems of which are
very short he supplies a wire to make up
the deficiency of nature. Then he commen-
ces his bouquet by selecting a good bold
fiower such as a Rose, Lily or Camellia for
the center which he winds with strong thread
on to a thin stiff twig. Around this centre
flower he then places a few leaves and out-
.^- \ side of these to be an inch or two below the
1^ flower he binds suificent moss so that when
a circle of flowers is added, they will not un-
duly crowd or overlap the Brst flower. It is
usual to start with smaller individuals or
tresses of flowers in this front line outward
and place a few light sprays of bloom between
them to stand out boldly above the regular
surface, next another ring of moss is bound
on the centre stem after which more green
is applied and another circle of flowers and
of projecting sprays. In this manner the
bouquet is proceeded with until a suitable
size is reached, when it may be finished by
the addition ot an edging of pleasing foliage
as Smilax, Fern, Rose, or Camellia leaves.
In the making of a bouquet thus the use of a
variety of flowers is assumed. But the style
now very much and very sensibly in vogue is
the use of but a single kind of flowers in a
bouquet; it may be of Roses, Sweet Peas, Mig-
nonette. Violets, Pansies, Tulips, Lilies, or other
kinds. In this case the course to employ for pre-
venting crowding is not disimilar from that we
quoted. But to avoid a stiff and monotonous
appearance in the bouquet pains must be taken
to have some flowers stand out considerably be-
yond the others and yet not be crowded, a
matter easily effected, by the use of plenty of
Moss back of the inner line of flowers, for keep-
ing the arrangement open.
In all large arrangements of flowers Roses
may be used with their own buds and foliage
to stand boldly beyond the general mass of
blooms, be they Roses or other flowers; this at
once breaks up the formal and heavy appear-
ance which otherwise would prevail.
Simpl.city should be aimed at in every arrange-
ment of flowexs. To employ for instance more
than two or three shades of flowers in the same
bunch one is sure to clash and kill the others.
In two shades of the same color we may effect a
lovely combination. Take for instance, a pink
shade and a deep crimson or maroon as found
in Roses, Carnations, Hollyhocks, Asters, etc.
For a brides bouquet it follows without saying
that white flowers, the choicest kinds and the
purest in color are the proper thmg. Still it is
no strange occurence now-a-days for fiorists to
receive ordeis for such bouquets made of deli-
cate tints just off from white.
A very handsome style of bouquet is one in
which several shades of the same fiower are
used arranging them uniformly in lines cross-
wise. We allude to the use of the darkest
shade on one side of the bouquet and then
grading in line of next darkest and so on in
succession to the lightest on the further or op-
posite side. A similar style may be employed in
making an upright anchor, cross or other floral
design suitable for a funeral. For instance it
may be the desire to make a harp of Pansies
alone. After gathering the flowers grade them
according to color and shade. Then in their use
j begin with the lightest ones at the bottom and
proceeding with the various successive shades
■ in regular order to complete the entire piece,
ending with the darkest even it it be black
Pansies at the top. Whatever the nature of any
piece of flowers it should have some kind of
edging.or setting of green.— Observer.
26o
POPULAR GARDENING.
September,
"^tSOClFriES
TO BrwarnvtmawtL
Barr'B Mammoth Aipara-
^U8. I like it twice as well
as Conover's.— Wm. Jackson,
Altiin.Soiilh.nin. Hin-t. Soc.
New Jersey State Horti-
cultural Society. The Fif-
teenth Anniversary Meeting
will be held in the College
Building at New Brunswick, Monday, Sept. 22d,
1S90. E. Williams, Secretary, Montclair, N. J.
Western New York Horticultural Society.
The report of the last meeting has been pub-
lished more promptly than ever before, and
shows considerable improvement over earlier
volumes. The society is still gaining in strength
and influence.
Profitable Orape Culture. I commenced grow-
ing Ci rapes on land where some said I would not
succeed. Obtained first bearing year two tons
per acre; second bearing year, four tons per
acre; third tearing year (season of 1888), nine
tons per acre. In fertilizers I use mainly horse
manure, applying it in the fall. As an experi-
ment I put on hen manure on a part of my vines,
which nearly doubled the yield.— J. K. Jlforrteoji,
Cliitiitanijua Hort. Socktti.
Bhododendrons on Exhibit. The recent dis-
play at the Horticultural Hall, Boston, suggests
the following selection as giving the largest and
best-formed trusses, with a good range of variety:
James Mcintosh, Michael Wat«rer, Princess
Mary of Cambridge, Lady Grey Edgerton, Henry
W. Sargent, Sherwoodii, Purpureum grandi-
florum, Delicatissimum, Sir William Sebright,
Charles Dickens, Sappho, The Queen, Sir Joseph
Whitworth and Helen Waterer.
Preparing Onions for Market. At the Grand
River Horticultural Society a bunch of spring
Onions with the roots on were shown by the sec-
retary as a a sample of proper preparing. James
J. H. Gregory says that of all tender, early veg-
etables mutilated, to appear well on the market,
nothing suffers so much asthe Onion. TheOnion
root should not be severed until it is needed im-
mediately for the table, otherwise the volatile
oil escapes and the most essential part is lost.
The Culinary Grape. The Culinary, of Ohio,
for which so much was claimed in the way of
retaining it shape when cooked, is the most foxy
Grape I ever tested; in fact it seems to be simply
a form of the native Vitui (abntsca, and in every
respect is very poor, if not entirely worthless.
It greatly resembles Dracut Amber and North-
ern Muscadine having the same color with a
very tough skin. It showed no superiority, even
when boiled.— H. E. Tandeman, Association of
Am. iVurserj/men.
Chrysanthemams for Flowers. Southwesterly
winds during the end of August and the early
part of September, often do much damage to the
buds and leaves where the plants are much ex-
posed. The tiower-buds and their peduncles are
at that time so t<;nder, that they are apt to be
whipped about and so cause a check to the devel-
opment of the blooms. Some growers set too
much store on plants with extra thick stems and
gross green leaves. These are perhaps pleasant to
look upon during the summer by the uninitiated,
but blooms possessing the desirable character-
istics are often missing. Very vigorous plants,
as a rule, produce blooms devoid of solidity and
other essentials.— B. Molyneux, Chrysanthemum
Conference, Shefflcld.
Fruits as Medicine. Fruit is more than a
lu.xury, it is a necessity, in some cases. We can
not give too much emphasis to this. I am almost
a crank on this subject For several years I have
had fruit, in some shape, constantly on the table.
A few years ago 1 was thought to be subject to
a heriditary disease which seemed sometimes to
almost deprive me of my senses, and at times
could not do mental work on account of severe
headache. It was suggested to me that I adopt
a fruit diet, and I have eaten fruit every meal
since and the result is good. Since putting this
in practice neither myself nor family have been
sick, anil have paid no doctor's bills. I am not
a vegetarian, but am in the habit of eating meat.
I believe we should use plenty of fruit, as I am
of tjie opinion that it is conducive of good health.
—Pri^f. Stockhrirlfir, Indiana Hort. Socitty.
Dewberry Disciusions. Mr. Wright.— I have
never been able to get any fruit from the
Lucretia in Florida. I have never seen even any
blossoms on it here. Mr. Bacon.— I think if you
will pile up some timter that you want to decay
and plant the Dewberries around it, you will get
all the fruit you want. I have about an acre of
them Hxed this way, and I never before saw such
a mass of berries. The ground was so black you
could hardly see any green. There were proba-
bly ashes on the ground; for when the timter
was cut everything was burned that would burn.
I have also seen them grow on high ground where
there was plenty of rotten wood. Mr. Mott.—
The ones I ate in Louisiana were twice as large
as 'any Blackberry I ever saw, and better than
any I ever ate. I believe it is worthy of exten-
sive culture here.— Florida Hort. Society.
Marketing Grapes. There is plenty of room
to extend the market (1) by getting earlier Grapes
of good quality. We ought to have a Grape as
early as the Champion and as good as the Worden
in every respect. If we had that we could double
our plantations. (2) At the end of the season by
preserving Grapes. (3) By puttingon the market
nothing but Grapes of the very best (juality.
(4) By teaching the consuming population the
good uses of Grapes, both as food and medicine.
Very little is known about that at present. The
Champion is a strong grower, prolific in yield,
good hardy vine, good leaf, and comes earlier
than anything we have. There is a fortune for
some man who will bring the right early Grape
before the public and handle it well. The first
good Grape we have is the Worden, which is at
least ten days later than Champion. The best
ten days in the season for selling G rapes is far
more than lost, because it is occupied by a Grape
which destroys the sale of other Grapes teing so
poor. The season is partly occupied by Moore's
Early, but it does not jield in sufficient quantity
to compete with the Champion. We must have
a Grape good enough in all its points to drive the
Champion out. Moyers Seedling is not known
well enough yet to pronounce positively as to all
its good points. It is sweet, good flavor and early.
I think about as early as the Champion. But
that is a red Grape, and even if successful and as
good, it may not drive the Champion out. With
better systems of preserving. Grapes could be
sold till May, and the time when Strawberries
come in. The best keeper I find is the Salem:
but it has other qualities that do not recommend
it to the commercial grower, though it is of an
exceedingly good quality, fairly good yield and
handsome to look at. The great objection is the
weakness of the leaf. I have seen some Salem
Grapes packed in cork dust that are to-day as
sound as when they were packed.— B. D. Smith,
Ontario Fniit Groicfr.v' Association.
Growing Cherry Trees in California. Cherry
trees are now generally propagated on Mazzard
seedlings grown in France. They drill the seeds
in rows, and at the end of the first season's
growth take them up and assort into three or
four sizes, viz; Extras, No. I, No. 2 and No. a.
They vary all the way in size from that of a small
straw to one-half inch at collar. They use the
extras at home and export the other grades. If
we take the No. 1 grade (about one-fourth inch
in diameter at the collar) and plant in a good,
loamy soil, in the coast and bay counties, grow
without forcing by irrigation, and bud the first
summer or graft the first winter, at the end of
the second year we have what we call a one-year
old tree; and we should have at least two-thirds
of a planting running from three to five feet in
height. We call such a production first-class
trees, and not being stimulated by irrigation,
they form the terminal bud in the latter part of
the summer and early fall and have the balance
of the growing season to ripen and harden the
wood. This class of trees I consider suitable to
start with in planting a Cherry orchard. On the
other hand, it we take the third-class stock, plant
it in the interior of the state, where the spring
growth commences early and the summers are
clear and warm, irrigate it thoroughly— by Sep-
temter we will have the stock large enough to
bud; in all probability larger than the first-class
stock grown without irrigation, and if we follow
with a plentiful supply of water the second
season, we can produce trees, two-thirds of them
or over, ranging from four to six feet in height,
straight stalks and smooth bark, and to the inex-
perienced eye better looking trees than the No.
I descrited above. But this class of trees would
te an unsuitable one to select in planting a
Cherry orchard. The foundation (the stock) is
inferior to commence with, the wood will te
coarse and unripe, the trees will not bear the
transplanting as well as those we have designated
as suitable. They will go back on the planter in
their future growth compared with the suitable
trees.— H'. H. Pepper, Cat. State Hort. Society.
Selection of Seed Potatoes.
{Ej-tracI of paiirr read bu Prof. E. S. Goff before a
Wi$eoHt<in Fanners^ Irustitute.)
Starting on the assumption that the run-
ning out of Potatoes is due to a lack of proper
selection of seed we determined to select
from the stronge.st hills on the one hand,
in order to increase the vigor of one set of
plants and from the weakest hills on the
other hand, in order to decrease the vigor of
one set of plants.
In the fall of 18SI we ordered our men, while
they were digging our variety tests of Potatoes,
to put Potatoes of each hill carefully by them-
selves I passed over the rows and examined
each hill, one by one. I then selected the hill of
each row that contained the largest number of
fine, smooth, salable Potatoes, and put this hill
into a small sack and latelcd it, '• Best hm of
White Star," or " Best of American Giant," ete.
After I had gone over ten varieties in this way,
I returned and selected the hill from each row
that had the smallest numter of merchantable
tubers. These smallest hills were put into sacks
and carefully labeled, when all were put into the
cellar, and left until the next spring. Now a dif-
ficult question arose. The Potatoes from the
strongest hills were larger on the average
than those from the least productive hills. It
would be expected, therefore, that they would
yield more, because our other experiments
generally showed that large tubers are more
productive than small ones. To eliminate
these difficulties, the following plan was
adopted: We took the two sacks of each variety,
that is the best and the poorest hills, and picked
out the largest from each, and cut these to single
eyes. Sometimes these two potatoes were of the
same size. But whether they were or not, single
eye cutting did not differ much in size, because,
as a rule, the larger the tuber of a given variety
the larger will be the numter of its eyes. We
then planted the single eyes of each of these
tubers in a short row by themselves, and labeled
the one test tuters from best hill, White Star,
and the other test tubers from smallest hill.
White Star, etc. Next we picked out the smallest
tubers from the same hills, and planted these in
the same way.
In the fall the crop was dug, each hill being
put by itself, and the same collections made for
another year, and in ISS^ the same experiment
was repeated. In the fall of this year Potatoes
rotted badly, and we were unable to make the
selections. We therefore waited until the fol-
lowing year then we made the same kind of sel-
ections from all the varieties we were testing, 8.3
in number. The results of all these tests show
that the tubers from the most productive hill
yielded most in every trial. What is still more
striking, the .yield of the smallest tuber from the
most productive hill was more than that of the
largest tuter from the least productive hill. This
furnishes the proof of the experiment, tecause
all our other experiments go to show, that if the
vigor of the two hills had been the same the
larger tuter would have yielded more than the
smaller, whereas it actually yielded con.siderahly
less. The figures show that the tubers from the
largest hills yielded on the average, calculated
on this single eye method, something more than
38 bushels per acre more than those from the
least productive hills.
We may fairly assume that had the yield of
the best hills been compared with that of the
average hills, the difference would have teen
half as great, or about IH bushels per acre. We
have this much then to pay for the trouble of
selecting the seed, added to the prospect that
the Potatoes will increase in productiveness
from year to year.
When Potatoes are not dug by horse power the
increased trouble recpiired to gather seed Pot-
atoes from the most productive hills is very
slight. Simply have a man walk along each row
with a bag hung over his shoulder, and gat' er
each strikingly productive hill. I would advise
to gather only those hills that have produced a
large number of tubers of good size, and uniform
shape, and very few small ones. The.se seed
potatoes had better be stored in a cool cellar,
where they will not sprout. But some will say
there is no use of taking this trouble, because
when one variet.v runs out we can buy new ones.
Yes, but can you afford to let a variety run out on
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
261
your hands V Suppose you secure a variety that
suits ymi in iiuality, form ami season, anil is
(»riMlneti>e, if it loses in protUietiveness three
bushels lu'r aere year, tor 10 years, the llftli year
you (flow that variety you will lose iri bushels
Iier aere, the sixth; IS; the seventh, 21,; the
eighth, ;.'4 ; the ninth, ■JT, ami the tenth, :UI. If you
want to buy a new variety you must pay some
one else for taking; the pains that you mit^ht ami
ou)j:ht to have taken youi-self.
Ornamental Trees for Extreme
North.
{Ejrtrart flttm imin-r rt-ad by D, Xivot bi^ore the Oa-
tario Krttit (jronvrs' Assoriation.
Although the Catalpa, Tulip tree, Ken-
tucky Cdlfee tree, the Magnolias, the Cy-
press, Ailauthus. Laburnum, Euonymus,
BoUonwood, Persimmon, and Sassafras are
not suitable for our northern climate, there
is certainly no lack of variety of beautiful
trees which can be relied on as being hardy
enough and in every way suitable for any
inhabited part of Ontario.
Amonjr evergreens we have the Hemlock
Spruce, which for !?i-aeefulness of habit, richness
in color of foliape, is not excelled by any foreign
variet.v that I know of. I often wonder why it
is so seldom grown as an ornamental tree» Per-
haps by some it is considered too common, but
this is a mistake, tor according to present indi-
eattoDs it will soon become one of the most un-
common trees in this country.
We also have the Norway Spruce, the Balsam
Fir, Arbor-vitivs in variety. Red Cedar, and the
Retinospora, the Austrian Pine, Scotch Pine,
Weymouth Pine, and a lot of other Pines, which
when grown as single specimens with plenty of
room make ornamental trees.
Then among deciduous trees besides all the
glorious Maples, Elms, Ashes and Mountain
Ashes, we have the Basswood, European Larch,
European White Birch, American Canoe Birch,
Purple Birch, and the Cut-leaved Weeping Birch.
Trees of all these kinds when properly grown
as single specimens, are admirable.
One prevailing error is planting trees too
closelj' together. Recently I saw growing on a
lawn three beautiful trees of considerable size,
one each of the Purple Beech, Cut-leaved Maple
and Weeping Birch. They were only twelve
feet apart, and beginning to crowd each other
then, consefiuently in about three years more
the two outer ones will be lop sided, and the
middle one a spindling scrub. I have seen
thousands of line trees ruined in the same wa.y.
Indeed, it is only in rare instances they are given
sufficient room to display their natuml beauty.
Another objectionable practice is that of clipp-
ing ortriming Evergreen tree into various fanci-
ful shapes. When trees are grown for orna-
ment and given plenty of room, they usually
take a natural and graceful form, which is
always more pleasing to those who have
acquired a correct taste than any distortion that
may be given by pruning. Many otherwise
Ijeautiful landscapes are sadly marred by the
stiff appearance of some barbered trees.
Native and Foreign Trees. Another commijn
mistake is made in giving preference to all
foreign species belonging to the same genera as
some of our native trees. The European Larch
is of more graceful habit than our native Tam-
arack, and the White Birch, with its weeping
varieties, is certainly more Iwautitul than any
of our common Birches, but the European Lin-
den is not by any means preferable to our Bass-
wood as an ornamental tree. Neither is the
English Elm for either beauty or shade to be
compared with some of the varieties of our
White Elm. Particularly' is this noticeable in
Toronto when the different species are growing
on opposite sides of some of the streets.
The Horse Chestnut is a magnificent tree when
grown to (>erfection, but in my district it is too
short-lived, and even if it lives forty years it
loses its beauty, as the branches begin to die.
There is perhaps no tree more unsuitable for
ornamentation than the Silver Poplar. Yet
about many farm homes it is the only tree plant-
ed. When once planted it is there to stay, for it
continuously sends up suckers enough to de-
stroy every other kind of tree near by. The
down it throws off after flowering is an abomin-
ation.
The Lombardy Poplar Is admired by some,
but it deserves no place on ornamental grounds.
The Aspen possesses some beauty ; yet it would
be folly to plant it unless for the sake of variety.
When asked which of all trees I prefer for the
ornamentation of a lawn, I invariably recom-
mend the Cut-leaved Weeping Birch. I have
U)st many tine specimens of it through the depre-
dations of "sap sucker" (yellow-bellied wood
pecker); yet if I had but room for one ornamen-
tal tree I wo\ikl plant a Cut-leaved Weeping
Birch. Ne.xt I wo\ild prefer the Purple llirch,
Weil's' ('ut-leaved Maple. European Larch, Red
Cedar, Blue Spruce, and Norway Spruce. After
the European Mountain Ash, the Imperial Cut-
leaved Alder, the Basswood, and the Bogwood.
On ext^'nsive grounds I would, of course, plant
a large \'ariety, and would include the Yellow
Locust. The only ob.jection to it is its tendency
of suckering. The sweet perfume from its
Howers in the month of June entitles it to a
place on the pleasure grounds
The wild Black Cherry is seldom planted as an
ornamental tree, although remarkably suitable
for the purpose. It is beautiful in tiower as well
as in fruit. I have seldom seen it affected by the
black knot, but have found it to be one of the
most enduring.
The Hickories, as a class, are of slow growth
while young, but their foliage is exceedingly
beautiful. In exposed positions they endure
and thrive well, while many other kinds would
be in.1ured.
The Ashleaved Maple is quite as hardy, but it
requires a richer and moister soil.
For a large growing and wide-spreading tree
for shade the Common Beech is unsurpassed.
The White .\sh when grown as a single speci-
men with plenty of room is a noble tree, well
suited for an extensive landscape.
The number of trees I have mentioned is suffi-
cient to make any country home as cheerful and
beautiful as the most refined taste could desire.
I believe one of the chief reasons why so many
farmers' homes look desolate is because the
owners have become discouraged through the
imposition of unscrupulous vendors who have
urged the imrchase and planting of trees utterly
unsuited for locality and conditions. Nurser.v-
men who allow their agents to sell unsuitable
trees are also to blame ; and they make a mis-
take, because success with suitable trees would
certainly lead to increased demand.
Common Sense and Common Non-
sense in the Naming of Plants.
{Abstract of paper by Mr. Shirley Hibbard, read at a
meeting of the Horticultural Club.)
If you compare what I term the pre-Lin-
naean names with those that Linna?us estab-
lished, you will perceive at a glance how
fully possessed of common sense was the
great botanical reformer. Those names in
use in books in the time immediately pre-
ceding Liuna?us are to be regarded as de-
scriptions in brief. In " Turners's Herbal,"
1.5U8, simple names occur, as for example,
Coniza Magna and Hyacinthus Maximus,
and again in " Kay's Plantarum,'' 1H8.5, the
names are in reality brief descriptions, as
for exaraple,' Hyacinthus orlcntalis vuliiaris
clivcr-siirum colorum, the ordinary Oriental
—Hyacinth.
The Binomial System. Linnaeus in his "Genera
Plantarum," 1737, and "Species Plantarum," 1753,
established the binomial system, having prepared
the way for it by a general review of the \ege-
table kingdom, and prepared the way for the
natural system which is now in general favor.
Those of his canons that directly concern us now
are that the same generic name shall be applied
to all plants of the same genus; that each generic
name must be single; that generic names com-
pounded of two entire words or portions of two
entire words are improper; that generic names
derived from the Greek or Latin languages are
alone admissable; that names are not to be
adopted for the purpose of gaining the good will
of saints or celebrated persons; and that long,
awkward and unpronounceable names are to be
avoided as altogether objectionable. There are
many more such. Mr. Alcock quotes from Pluk-
cnet Otrwtragcmatfidendros as an example of a
" long, awkward, disagreeable name."
A good name of a plant may serve two pur-
poses. It may guide one to a plant not seen or
known before. I submit as an example that
Ilex cornuta does this, when we have learned to
recognize the Holly as an Ilex, for the specific
name admirably suggests the form of the leaf.
A good name recalls it in the absence of a speci-
men, and assists to identity the specimen.
A fanciful name is of no use for either of these
purposes; it is simply a mnemonic sign, and a
ta.\ on the memory. A German botanist is re-
port/tMl to have said that it is not in the power of
a man Ui attjiin to a knowledge by name, and, in
fact, of more than 1(1,111)0 plants. Many intelligent
and observant men of fairly good memory would
be glad if tlicy could master the identification
correctly b.v name of ten hundred plants.
Commemorative Names. What I mean by
common sense in this connection is compliance
with the Liuna-n methixl, but we may with ad-
vantage build uiiim the Linnu'n foundation, so
as to carry the edifice a few stories higher.
For example. Linnaeus admitted commemora-
tive names; but such have of late years been em-
ployed with such a lack of discrimination that
the abuse suggests a necessity for their total
abolition. The great sin of modern botanists is
the wholesome adoption of cDinmemorativc
nanieK. A plant comes to hand, the characters
of which separate it from all known genera. The
troultle of inventing a name by means of an ex-
ploration "of Greek roots is saved, because the
botanist has a friend named Smith to whom it
would be agrerable to pay a compliment. So
Smith furnishes the generic name. For the
specific name there stands Brown, and the thing
is done. By-and-by a variety of the species is
met with, and again the process is repeated, and
the \ariety is named after Jones.
Among the reputed British species of Salix,
there are no fewer than twenty-two named after
persons or places, and not one of the names is so
good as that devised by a humble botanist who,
finding a plant he had never seen before, and
having no means of ascertaining it name, called
it, because he found it by the roadside, lihodum
Sidum, as good a name perhaps as Geryiuw
Sidug, and one that might be adopted and pass
current without raising a laugh. In Curtis'
•• Botanical Magazine " for the year 1865 there
are figures and descriptions of sixty-six plants,
of which nine are named from the countries or
districts in which they grow, and nineteen from
persons.
Geographical names are, as a rule, not good.
Very many of the plants found in Japan, and
named (with how little effort) Japonica, are also
found in China; and species that inhabit both
the old and new world cannot with any propriety
at all have geographical names assigned them.
If books of authority like the " Botanical Maga-
zine " arc thus open to animadversion, what shall
we say of trade catalogues?
In the " Botanical Magazine " during the year
1838 there were published sixty-one plants, of
which thirty-one have specific names commem-
orative of persons, three are records of Geo-
graphical location, and twenty-one are founded
on visible characters, and may be regarded as
descriptive. The bestowal of a personal or a
geographical name saves time, and demands ab-
solutely no talent; but for the bestowal of a
good descriptive name a diagnosis is required,
and it must be performed by a botanist familiar
with the genus, and in a state of mind favorable
to clear perception and discriminative comj)ar-
ison.
Descriptive Names. A generic name should
cover all generic characters, and a specific name
should clearly separate a plant from all other
specic!< in the genus. The thick or broad guage
men are lum[)ers, and see fewer species worth
naming than the thin or narrow guage men who
are splitters, and usually see more species than
common sense can acknowledge.
To name plants from their colors is bad practice.
We have DigUali^jmrpurca aWa, the white pur-
ple Foxglove, which is not more rational than to
say the white black cat. Nor is it consistent with
the aims of science to adopt names that reflect
injuriously or unpleasantly upon persons. Sir
J. E.Smith, who was a purist in this'mattter,
refers to the Linnean name Buffonia tenuifolia
as " a satire on the slender botanical pretensirins
of the great French Zoologist, as the Hillia para-
sitica of Jacquin, though; perhaps not meant, is
an equally just one on our pompous Sir John
Hill. Such satires stain the purity of our lovely
science; if a botanist does not deserve commem-
oration let him sink peacefully into oblivion."
Mr. Alcock has put the case reasonably, thus—
"Those names that point out a decided specific
character are the best, as Areiiaria trinervU^
Chhtra perfuUala, Epipactis ensifolia, and the
like."
The greatest sinners against propriety in nam-
ing plants are the orchidists, for they ignore all
settled rules, they repudiate the requirements of
262
POPULAR GARDENING.
September,
common sense, they make a law for themselves
which they do no define, and which whene\'er
they do define it, will convict them of frequent
and flagrant violation.
The raising of hybrid Orchids has brought
about a curious crisis in botanical nomenclature.
The binomial system may be said to be nowhere.
Take a few e.xamples. I will begin with the
actual ('ymbtdium cbunieo-Lowianum, Cymhid-
ium giganteum and Cymhidium pendulum. Then
I will effect a cross between Cymhklium gigan-
tcum and Cymhhiium pendulum, and the selected
offspring shall be called CymlikJium gigantco-
Ijendulum. This last I will cross with (^ymbidium
ehurnco-Lowkmum, and the result shall be a
beautiful Orchid with the interesting name Cgm-
hklinm ehurnco Lowkmum-giganteo-penduhtm .
We shall have to manipulate generic names in
an equally elegant manner; we cross LtEfia with
Cattleyn and obtain a new genus to be called
Lelkj-Cattleya, and we cross in an opposite direc-
tion to obtain Cattle ya-Lcelta. The orchidists
are endeavoring to turn the world back to what
we may speak of as pre-Linnean times, and they
substitute descriptions for names, and where a
definition is wanted they provide a confusion. I
submit that we are not to have descriptions in
the place of names, and that while the binomial
system suffices for all ordinary purposes it should
be maintained in its original integrity. The use
of supplementary names is allowable only as
representing varieties, and may be framed on a
variety of plans with almost unlimited latitude,
consistent with propriety and convenience. Very
often our plant names do injury to science and
disgrace the inventors of the ugly and unpleasant
names.
Variety Names. In naming varktics, and es-
pecially garden plants, there must be much
liberty allowed, and here ample room may be
found for commemorative names, and for such
as may be termed fanciful and playful. But
common sense will object to freedom in this
region irrespective of the class of subjects to
which the names are applied. For such things
as Dahlias, Pelargoniums and Phloxes, descrip-
tive names are rarely wanted. But in such a
group of plants as the varieties of Ilex aquifol-
ium, for example, we seem to need descriptive
names, those of a personal or geographical
character being inappropriate. We have a Holly
a[)propriatel.v named LaurifoUa, and the name
is useful as a guide to the plant. Suddenly in the
midst of Hollies we find Madame Brint, where a
lady should not be in the midst of sombre colors,
and other characters that have nothing especially
feminine about them.
In the year 1871' I bestowed some care in the
classification and nomenclature of the Ivies. I
adopted or invented descriptive names for all
the varieties I could obtain; and you will find
them entered as lohed, arrow-Unved, wrinlded,
round, angular aniiso forth. The personal names
I abolished without hesitation. For example, I
found an Ivy bearing the name of Olumi; and as
the Glym would not light me to the character, I
named it Tortunsa, because it had a twisted leaf.
One that I found bearing the sweet name Rhnm-
l}<iidea iihnvata latifalki I observed had a leaf that
might be likened to the Greek letter D, and I
called it Deltiikleo. The world did not accept my
proposals with joj'ful thanks, for in truth ths
men who knew absolutely nothing about Ivies
were the most free of their abuse; and I never
cimdescended to tell them, as I might have done,
that many of the names they condemned as new
and ridiculous, were good old names that I sought
to re-establish in the place of later names that
were altogether inaiipropriate.
The Bemedy. It you ask me what is to be
done, I can only answer that I have more faith
in public opinion than I have in any of our or-
ganized societies, councils and committees. It is
doubtful if an effective board of nomenclature
could be constituted, considering how local and
academic the so-called learned societies for the
most part are. A revising board would have to
be in correspondence with all botanical and jier-
haps with some horticultural societies, not only
of Europe and America, but of the world.
Were certain common sense principles agreed
upon for a basis of operations, an immensity of
good work might be accomplished with but a
shadow of the effort that appears to be inevita-
ble, so long as we consider the matter in the
abstract only. Let us take the Rromeliaceous
plants for an example. The late Professor Ed-
ward Morren has left for the appropriation of
such a board a systematic revision of all the
materials for a rectification of nomenclature.
One example is as good as fifty. Specialists will
be found to differ in their methods of operation,
in their views on classification and nomenclature,
but as a rule they may be relied upon for minute
knowledge of facts, and the business of a revising
board would be to turn their labors to account
in aid of a distinctly formulated system; the
board would have to harmonize rather than in-
vent; and to parcel out the work and keep con-
trol in view of fundamental principles.
Grapes as Affected by Climate
and Situation
{Paper by Geo. W. Campbell, the introducer of the
Delaware Qrape. before the Nurserymen's Associ-
tion. Coruiluded from page 'i^.\
Mr. Ricketts' Grapes, although many of them,
as grown and exhibited by himself, were of
great beauty and excellence, have not proven
generally successful, and the most of them, I
think, can only be grown to perfection by special
care or in very favorable situations. The .Jeffer-
son has been with me one of the most successful,
and among the best flavored, though sometimes
rather tardy in ripening. John Snider, one of
the oldest Grape-growers in southern Ohio, at
Lancaster, gives the Jefferson the position of
" the finest Grape on the American Continent."
But Secretary Williams, of New Jersey, finds
the Jefferson unsatisfactory and of little or no
value.
The Brighton Grape is deservedly popular in
many places, but it often fails in productiveness.
This must always continue, for the cause is
found in its imperfect blossom, with short fila-
ments and reflexed stamens. In favorable sea-
sons, with bright and mild weather dnring the
period of infloresence, the pollen seems sufBci-
cient to fertilize and produce perfect fruit. But
if cold and rainy weather prevails at this period
the Grapes fail to set, and few and imperfect
clusters are the result. Some of the Rogers'
Hybrids and the newly introduced Moyer Grape
are in the same class.
Most persons who plant a large number of
different kinds of Grapes come to the conclusion
that we have too many varieties. This is doubt-
less true as applied to any one locality; but the
very kinds that do not succeed in that particular
may be both successful and valuable in other
places which are suited to their special require-
ments. Occasionlly, when we have pleasant
and sunny weather extending late into autumn
without unseasonable frosts or cold rains, some
of the Grapes of southern origin, such as
Catawba and Herbemont, and even our northern
Clinton and Zoe, become rich and high flavored
with a sweetness and refreshing sprightliness
which are only attained in our climate in ex-
ceptionally favorable seasons. The inference
here is plain that in other places where such
favorable conditions exist naturally the same
happy results will as naturally follow.
The point I wish to make is that success in
Grape culture requires that varieties should be
selected which are especially adapted to the
locality where they are grown; and that because
a Grape does not succeed in one section, it is by
no means certain that it may not be both suc-
cessful and valuable in another to which it is
fitted naturally.
The area of adaptation is evidently much
wider for some varieties than others. In our
section of country the Labrusca type— includiug
Concord, Worden, Moore's Early, Ives, Lady,
Martha and Woodruff— will probably be found
more generally successful than any other class;
but there are, doubtless, in some portions of the
south, other varieties which are better adapted
to their soil and climate than any of these. The
Delaware Gra])e would probably be fouud
adapted to as large an area as any other in culti-
vation, except for its unfortunate liability to
mildew of the foliage : and I am not without
hope that the use of the sulphate of copper
remedies may so far overcome this difliculty as
to permit the successful growing of this valuable
variety to an extent even bej'ond that of the
Concord by i-eason of its constitutional resistance
to the attacks of Grape-rot.
I regard as of the greatest importance the use
of these recently discovered remedies against
the various maladies which have been so preva-
lent and so discouraging to Grape-growers. I
believe that their general adoption and general
use will not only greatly enlarge the area of
successful Grape-growing, but will also enable
us to grow profitably many of the finer and par-
tially tender varieties in sections where it would
be impossible without them.
'Our Insect Friends.
lExtractsfrom an essay reeul before the Missouri State
Hortieultural .Society, by Mary E. Murtfeldt.
Out insect friends are far more numerous
than people generally are aware. As one
phase of their usefulness in a general way
insects are busy from morning till night,
and from night till morning, carrying the
pollen from the anthers of one plant to the
stigmas of another of the same kind, thus
insuring vigor to the germ and perfection
to the fruit.
Our orchards, our vineyards, our berry l)eds
are all more productive for the swarms of bees,
flies, beetles and butterflies that flit from one
flower to another, scattering the fructifying
germs. The Crimson Clover fields would be ban-
ished from our landscapes but for the bumble
bees.
Insects are the chief food supply of the great
majority of birds and food fishes. We can
scarcely realize the aid they afford in the reduc-
tion of decaying animal and vegetable sub-
stances. It is, however, to those species, which
by their cannibalistic and parasitic habits assist
so immeasureably in keeping in check other
species, which are undeniably injurious to us,
that I desire more particularly to call attention.
We must be able to distinguish our friends from
our foes. It may almost be set down as a rule
that the ugliest and most ferocious looking of
insect larviv are the ones in all cases to preserve.
And it may also be said that grace and beauty of
the perfect insect is, with many species, in exact
ratio to the fierce ungainliness of their immature
forms. This is especially true of the cannibal
beetles.
The tiger beetles we see along our paths in the
spring, running with the extreme lightness and
agility and rising readily on the wing, are great
hunters, while their larvae, which rest at the
bottom of a perpendicular hole in the ground
five or six inches deep, and the size of a lead
pencil, are genuine trappers at the top of their
burrows, and hundreds of bugs, ants, flies and
worms are required to nourish a single larva? to
the stage of maturity. The larger ground beetles
also hunt on the surface of the earth, while their
larvte burrow in all directions in search of cur-
culio and other larvsf that enter the ground there
to transform.
The preying mantis or devil's horse (Mantis
Carolina) is another (very valuable, though un-
canny looking insect. Its singular egg masses,
which resemble what geologists call a "trilubite"
shovdd by no means be destroyed. While it is no
respecter of species, beneficial or injurious, it
devours far more of the latter than the former.
The short winged females which are incapable of
flight are especially ferocious, and manj- of
the winged but less robust males furnish their
conjugal partners with a dinner.
Among the species of cannibal beetles which
merit our highest regard are the so-called lady
birds (Coccinellidip). Wc have native to this
country .50 or fiO species, but not more than 13 or
1.5 of this number are abundant and widely dis-
tributed. They are all of small size, the largesi
not exceeding one-third of an inch in length,
and in coloring, various shades of red, with
black dots, prevail. The larvse are elongate
dark colored, often spiny grubs, with six long
sprangled legs, and present a rather repulsive
appearance. When ready to change they attach
themselves by the tail and either push the larvie
skin backward or split it open on top, but remain
within it until the beetle is ready to appear. The
especial function in nature which these insects
were apparently designed to fulfil is to keep in
check the myriads of Iplant lice and bark lice
that multiply at such an incredible rate that no
human agenc.v is sufficient to cope with them.
Simultaneously with the appearance of the
aphids or plant lice, come several species of these
beetles, two or three lace-wing flies and syrphus
flies, and a large number of big and little para-
sitic species, and while the plant lice extract the
sap with their innumerable little beaks, the
larger insects seize them in their jaws and drain
them of their vital fluids or puncture their plump
bodies to lay their eggs, which hatch into tiny
grubs within the bodies of their victims, and
within a few hours destroy their appetites for
plant nectar, and soon convert them into a mere
house and larder for the knawing worms within.
All these predacious species develop with great
rapidit.v, and soon so reduce the ranks of the
vegetable feeders that the grain crop is rescued
from destruction.
1890
POPULAR GARDENING.
263
Tho inirasitii' spet-ies of insootsaie, with \or.v
riiro fxeeittions, rith»'r two-winded or ioiir-
wiiiyred tlics. Tlu'ir lity thoy eji:j?s on t\w siirfm-e
of till' boiiy of thoir vk-tlni, ffUuMiiK t'H'ni fast
until tIu'Ki'"l'f^'ii»iI Imtfh. or by nifaiKsof vari<ms
inK'-''"'"*"^l.v sliapi'd ovipositories. they puuctuio
tho skin and li^ave, their ewjfs in the fatty tissue
beneath. The K-rubs, upon hatehintr, feed all
around luiderneath the skin of the poor eater-
pillar or worm, and do n<tt penetrate t(t the vital
parts until they are g'rown, and have no further
use for their host, except as a shelter while they
are in the pupa state. They then devour the
remaining orgiin"; and spin their eoeoons soa)e-
timcs within, sometimes upon the surface of the
infested larvie.
An example of the latter that will be familiar
to most of you is the small parasite of the Tomato
worm, which often covers the surface of the
still living larvie with little white cocoons stand-
ings on end, which have very much the appearance
of grains of rice. In cases of larger parasites
like i^phion and its allies, but a single one infests
a Marva, and these generally transform inside
the body of their victim.
The tree crickets, which have so long been
classed with injurious species because of the
punctures they make in Grape vines and Rasp-
berry canes, in the process of oviposition, are
according to my own observations, far more
beneficial than pernicious. This is especially the
case with the broad-winged species {Ecanthus
Latipennis). Having carefully reared it for two
successive years in a rearing cage I am prepared
to class it as one of the most efficient aids that
we have in reducing the numbei*s of the plant
lice and other small insect* that attack our fruit
trees, vineyards and lierry patches. And if it
does occasionally kill a twig in preparing a safe
nidus for its eggs, it certainly makes ample com-
pensation.
Entomologists have long realized the value of
jiredaceous and parasitic species, yet but few
attempts have been made to increase the num-
bers of the latter or to introduce them from one
country or region to another. The European
parasites of the Cabbage butterfly have been im-
ported into some sections of the Eastern States
and are doing good service in the market gardens
near some of our large cities. As man affords
unnatu ral facilities for the increaae of vegetable
feeding species, by covering such vast areas with
certain kinds of grains and fruits, it would be
but reasonable for him to devote some attention
to the recognization and protection of their
natural enemies. When the armies of cannibal
insects meet the armies of the vegetable feeders
in anything like an adequate proportion, we shall
be able to close up our Paris green and Loudon
purple factories, and convert our spraying
machines into approved watering appliances, and
leave our fields and orchards to their natural
protectors.
CONDENSED GLEANINGS.
An Apple ^torape House. The building as
here illustrated is :iO feet long, 24 feet wide, and
nine feet high, inside measure. Two walls sur-
round it, a and h, which are 1% feet thick and
constructed of wood. The space in middle of
BURDOCK CUTTERS.
each wall is tilled with sawdust, as the walls are
built up. The space between the inner and the
outer walls, c, is filled with charcoal. The
ground or floor of the interior and c is made of
clay and sawdust. The roof must slope enough
to throw off water freely, and the earth about
the building be graded so as to let the water flow
away as fast as it falls. Have the entrance door
at the north end of the building. The outside
wall should have a double door, d, one openiug
out and the other opening in. The door, e, is
single and opens directly inU) the fruit room. In
severe cold weather fill this space with straw.
Wooden shutters,/, four in number, are placed
-J_
<»ii a level, four feet iibovo the y:riniiul, in the
exterior imd interior walla, as indicated. They
are t'<»r use in eleaninpr and airin^r the room Ik'-
fore imttinp: the fruit in. Tho interior is fitted
up witli shelves, bin.'*, and plaees for barrels, or
other artieles in -which fruit may be packed.
Tile slielves are as shown in g h, and extend
from tlie lloor up to the ceiling— one foot above
each other, the first four or five tiers being on a
level, (/, and the rest on an angle, 7(, of about Ut"^
and. to give free circulation of air, the shelf
pieces are made of narrow boards with an inch
space left between each, the front, i, to have a
ledge-board attached to prevent fruit from
rolling off. In the center of
room space is reserved for a
stand or table upon which to
place the fruit for final assort-
ment before going on to the
shelves. ProWde dr.v moss, or
cotton, for the table, thus form-
ing a cushion-like receptacle for
the fruit; carefully glean out
aU specimens having bruises, and
let the sound fruit lay for several
days in order to throw off surplus
moisture. Supply the shelves
with a thin layer of dry moss, or
cotton, wipe the fruit with a dry
flannel cloth, and place on the
shelves, being sure that none
touch each other. Keep the atmosphere of
room dry rather than humid, and the tempera-
ture always as nearly as possible 46° to 48° Fahr.
—Orange Judd Farmer.
Prairie Trees from Seeds. As a rule failure
almost invariably follows the attempt to grow
trees from seed planted where the trees are in-
tended to stand, yet the difference in the first
cost, relatively, between seed and rooted trees or
cuttings, induces many to plant seeds. The cost
of the seed usually required for five acres is
three or dollars, of cuttings twelve to eighteen
dollars, and of young trees from twenty to
thirty dollars. The cost of planting seed or trees
is almost as much in favor of the seed. The
only possible chance of success with seeds is
when the ground selected has been previously
cleanly cultivated by some hoed crop, or better
by summer fallowing, and when it is put in the
finest condition and the seed planted late in fall.
If the trees are to be raised from seed, seleet a
clean, rich piece of ground in the garden, which
should be made as fine as possible by thorough
haiTOwing and planking, stretch a line length-
wise the patch, and make a drill about six in-
ches wide and two inches deep. Sow the seed
thickly in this drill, say about twenty-five seeds
to the foot, and cover with the tine earth, which
should be compacted firmly with the feet or hoe,
according to moisture in the soil. Other drills
can be made parrallel with this, about thirty in-
ches apart, so that the ground between can be
kept cultivated by a horse hoe or harrow toothed
cultivator. If good ground is selected and clean
culti\'ation carried out, the seedlings will be of
.just the right size to transplant the next spring,
and by clean cultivation or summer fallowing
(preferabl.v the latter) of the ground which they
are intended to occupy, you have the first essen-
tials of success But here, aselsewhere, "eternal
cultvation is the price of trees.— American
Agriculturist.
Orape Care. An American " Grape cure " can
not exist as yet, for lack of the proper curative
material. The Concord and Delaware remain
our types of popular Grapes, with least amount
of acid centre, but still too much. Aside from
acidity, with its more or less unpleasant conse-
quences, there has in late years been brought to
public notice, a real danger to life from swallow-
ing the seeds. We have noted several cases of
death which physicians said were due to the
lodgment of Grape seeds in the intestines. It
would be well for our physcians to tell us
whether this lodgment of seeds is due to weak-
ness or imperfect action of the bowels, or
whether it is liable to occur in any healthy
nature. The foreign Grape is eatable, and its
seeds are small; the native Grape must be
swallowed like a pill. The new danger will cer-
tainly lead many eaters to refuse to swallow the
seeds. This will compel them to be satisfied
with the juice, only, of our standard sorts, e.ject-
ing the firm, acid pulp, or else to limit them-
selves to the very few sorts whose pulp is tender
and sweet, although their seeds are large.
Would it not be well to see what can be done in
the wa.v of " breeding out." These large seeds?
—County Gentleman.
The Twiggy Genista. ^(Itnlxtu Miyitl^i is'
without doubt, one fif the )>iost IjCHutiViil ol all
the showy li-guminous shri|i)s in the KcW Arbo-
retum. Although a!iMti\c>of Matieira, it ^-x^iUs
with us quite as hardy as our native llroom
(.CytiKiiK svapariUK). In spiljp ot its merit tho
species is far from common }, it lias small leaves
and slender branchlets, cvc|a' one of whit'his
terminated in .luly with an iiWifcht, golden j'a-|
ceme. There arc numerous oW ^petMineng flW
Kcw from six to eight or ten feet I'it-'li arid' tifi/
much through, and these must ha\'K4;ur<('svfiiJly
passed through many winters which •tuli^flicir
mark on not a few of our indigenous trees and
a
^
i
m::
PLAN OF APPLE STORE-HOUSE.
shrubs. In some gardens Cf.t'ir(7rt(a is cultivated
under the name of O. elata, which really repre-
sents a widely different plant, and is nothing
more than a vigorous form of the European
G. tinctnria, a pretty perennial with a woody
base.— U. Nicholson, in Forest and Garden.
Burdock Catters. The instrument shown at
the toji of illustration can be made by any black-
smith, using an old spade handle and a piece of
old wagon spring. .Set the cutter about two
inches from the Kurdock, at an angle of about
30° from the perpendicular; with the foot press
the cutter down far enough to cut off the root.
Now lift the Burdock by the hand, from its
place, and the work for that Burdock is done.
This instrment and process severs the roots
below the crown, and it will not sprout again;
The blade of the other instrument, shown at
bottom, is a wide piece of old wagon spring, 20
inches in length, sharpened at both ends. A
block of bard wood, seven inches long, is bolted
to centre of blade to hold the wooden handle, 40
inches in length. With this implement one
stroke is required, and one can take out weed
roots at a rapid rate —From County Gentleman.
Fruit-Dangers and Remedies. An excessive
amount of fruit, or, if eaten either in the unripe
or over-ripe state, produces various disturb-
ances in the system, chiefly so because of its
tendency to ferment and decompose within the
digestive tract, and to produce stomach and
bowel disorder. If these disturbances are not
too great, or too prolonged, they need occasion
no special anxiety. A dose of castor oil;- to
which a few drops of laudanum have been added,
is usuall.v suflieient to clean out the irritating
"debris," and in a day or two the natural equili-
brium is restorted. If there is much griping and
pain with the movements, and these become too
numerous to be comfortaiile, the dose of oil
should bo followed by curtailing activitj— by
quiet and repose— by a diet of meat broths, con-
taining rice, barley, or sago; by rice, and milk
milk toast, etc. — Medical <^'lassics.
The Climbing Hydrangea, There are vines
more desirable than this for certain purposes,
but where there is wanted a stout, vigorous,
rapid climber, that will supjiort itself just as the
Trumpet Vine does, it will be found in this. It
has large, green leaves, thickly set along the
stem, and, as it gets large and strong, it flowers
every spring, soon after the foliage expands.
While the flowers are in large heads, such as
some other Hydrangeas have, there is not the
beauty in them that there is in such sorts as the
paniculata graudifiora. Still, it is uncommon
in a climber, and no detraction at all. For fences
carriage houses or any place where large vines
are used it will be found a good thing to have,
but it should not be set where there is objection
to birds building in it, as its thick, branchy
growth forms a good place for nests.— P. I-'armer.
Blanching Celery, A crisp, delicacy of flavor
seems to be only obtainable by a generous bank-
ing with earth. Previous to banking, tie the
stalks in a compact bunch ; the earth is then
packed as high arf)und the stalks as is deemed
advisable. A simple way to prevent the possible
objections in damp weather, that the stalks ara
264
POPULAR GARDENING.
September,
crooked in tying or the stalks stained or nibbled
by earth worms, is to take strips of straw paper,
ten to twelve inches wide, and wrap each stalk
in place of tying. A troweltul of earth will
hold the paper in place when the banking can be
done. The earth should be drawn up nearly to
the top of the paper Leave the base of the hill
broad, so that more earth can be drawn up, if
necessary.— Canada Ex.
Killing Greenfly. The idea illustrated in ac-
companying tlgure is old, but only practicable
to those heating with steam. I use it with per-
fect satisfaction. Screw in a T (see A) where
convenient (we use one every hundred feetl,
then using half-inch pipe put in B with valve,
cut pipe C long enough to reach middle of walk,
screw in D loosely (so as to screw or unscrew by
hand;, and have it long enough to reach bottom
of barrel. Fill your flour barrel with Tobacco
stems, turn on the steam and you have a cheap,
clean, and effectual apparatus that will kill green
or black fly and red spider. During the day un-
screw D, roll barrel out of the way, push C
parallel to bench and the walk is clear. -A. H.
Lange, in American Florist.
Death by Lightning not Frequent. There is
a thousand times the danger in the sewer pipes
that there is in the thunder clouds. The deaths
by lightning are few indeed. Who of the readers
of this paragraph ever lost a friend that way?
Who of them hasn't lost a score of friends by
the less brilliant and less noisy destruction that
comes up out of the house drains?— The Hart-
ford Courant.
Pear Seedlings. Few fruit seeds grow easier
than Pear seed, fresh from the fruit, stuck right
in the ground, covered an inch or less with lively
rich, sandy or coal ash soil that can't bake, and
then covered over winter with two or three
inches of grass, hay, straw or leaf mulch, to be
removed early in spring.— F. K. Pha-nix.
Tame Qaaile. Quail— so wonderfully helpful
against our insect enemies— are so numerous
and tame in the vicinity of (jrass Lake, Wis.,
that they fly into the village in flocks and sit
around on the lawns like robins. The law pro-
tecting them lasts two years more. -N.Y Witn's.
Fertilizers and Tillage Pay in the Garden.
Careful experimenters are becoming more and
more doubtful as to whether commercial fertili-
isers, as ordinarily used on farm crops, are a
source ot profit ; but they are unanimous in the
opinion that superior tillage pays.— Concord Pen.
Manure for Bulb Beds. Cow manure is best of
all. It is used by the Holland bulb growers who
raise the millions of flower-roots annually sent
out to gladden the eyes and hearts ot multitudes
in other lands.— Ex.
Moles and Gophers. 1 have never been able to
poison moles, but always successful In clearing my
fields of gophers by opening their holes late In the fall,
and rolling In a Potato plugged and poisoned with
arsenlc.-Corr. B. N. Y.
Currants Worthy of Care. By the use of manure,
the cultivator and hoe with a little white Hellebore
STEAMING TOBACCO FOR APHIS.
dusted on the foliage, my bushes look thrifty and are
well loaded with large Currants,— E.x.
Lily of the Valley. The flowers are used during
the winter months In immense quantities, N. Y. City
alone using probably a million. The average price Is
about live cents each.- Am. Florist.
Thinnine Grapes. Grapevines that over-bear will
not ripen their I'rult. It is better to thin out an.l
thereby get better clusters and riper fruit.— C. Mills.
Prices of Dried Fruits. There Is no indication of
any abatemeut of the upward movement of prices for
dried fruit.- N. Y. Com. Bulletin.
Danger in Wells. The farmer should by all means
study pure water, and how Xo keep it ptire on his own
place.— Mobile Register.
Mania for Dosing Incurable. There Is a remedy for
everything— except some of our modern remedies.-
Puck.
Vegetable Products on the Table.
Canning Whole Tomatoes. Select small sound
Tomatoes. Pack them without peeling into wide-
mouthed jars.'fill the jai'S with cold water, and
finish precisely'as directed for Lima Beans, boil-
ing only thirty minutes. Be sure that the cans
are filled to overflowing with boiling ;water be-
fore screwing on the tops.
Grape Jelly. Stem ripe Grapes and put in a
preserve kettle, let come to a boil, mash and
strain. Put the .iuice on to boil for twenty
minutes, when add three quarters of a pound of
sugar to every pint of juice, skim while boiling,
let cook fifteen minutes. Green Grape Jelly may
be made the same way, but will retiuire a pound
of sugar to a pint of .juice.- Ladies Home Jour.
Eggs and Tomatoes. Fry a pound of ripe
Tomatoes with skins removed either in oil or
lard, with a small quantity of Onion, and suffl-
cient salt, until all the moisture is evaporated
and the Tomato like Apple sauce. Have ready
half a dozen eggs well beaten, and when the
Tomatoes are ready add the eggs, stirring quick-
ly for a minute or two until well mixed and the
eggs set, when serve at once.
Green Tomato Preserves. Slice the Toma-
toes quite thin, and to each pound allow half a
pound ot sugar, the .iuice and rind of half a
Lemon, and some grated Ginger. Place all to-
gether in a preserving vessel near, but not on
the fire, until the sugar is melted, then place it
where it can boil quickly for about half an hour,
or until the syrup thickens, then put in ,iars. I
always use a stoneware basin with a flat bottom.
Green Tomato Pickles. To one peek of small
green Tomatoes add six large Onions, sliced, and
a cupful of salt, and let them stand until the
next day. Then drain off the water, and boil
them for fifteen minutes in two quarts of water
and one of vinegar mixed ; afterwards drain
them in a sieve. Then, while still hot, pour over
them tour quarts ot vinegar, with two pounds of
brown sugar, two tablesi)Oonfuls each of gi'ound
Cinramon, Cloves, and Allspice, previously
boiled therein, and bottle off.
Cucumber Catsup. Select tender Cucumbers
and peel and grate enough of them to make two
iiuarts of pulp. With a wooden spoon press it
lightly until the juice stops running. Throw
the latter away and season the pulp with half a
pint of grated white Onions, halt a pint of
grated Horse-radish, half an ounce of ground
black Pepper, salt to your taste, and six level
tablespoontuls of sugar. Have ready three one-
quart glass jars, put one-third of the pulp into
each, fill full ot the best cider vinegar and screw
the tops on perfectly tight.— Home Maker.
Canned Lima Beans. Fill the jars full of un-
cooked Beans, then fill full of cold water, and
lay on the tops. Place straw or hay in the bot-
tom of a wash boiler, place the jars on this, and
pour in sufBcient cold water to half cover them.
Put the boiler over the fire, cover it closely with
the lid, and boil steadily for three hours. Take
up the jars, see that they are filled to overfiow-
ing, and screw on the cover as tightly as possible.
Stand aside, where the air will not strike them to
cool. When cold, again screw the covers, and
keei> in a dark, cool place. Asparagus and Peas
may be canned in the same way.— Table Talk.
Fried Tomatoes. No better breakfast, lunch-
eon or supper dish can be desired than one of
fried Tomatoes with cream sauce. Cut large,
and not overripe Tomatoes into three thick
slices; dust with salt and Pepper and dredge
lightly with flour. Have some hot butter or
half butter and half sweet drippings in a frying
pan, and fry slowly. When browned on one side
turn on the other, and when tender, but not so
well cooked that they cannot be lifted without
breaking, lift with a cake turner and slide on to
a hot dish. Stir two tablespoonfuls of flour into
the fat in the pan, and when smooth add slowly
a pint of rich hot milk. Stir constantly until it
boils, season with salt and Pepper and pour over
the Tomatoes. Another way is to dip the slices
in egg and bread crumbs and serve with a brown
sauce.— .\lice Chittenden, in Country Gentleman.
Canning Pears. Hartlctts are best for canning.
Pare, cut in halves, and with a pointed knife re-
move the core and blossom end. The stems may
be left, as they look very pretty. Throw them
at once into cold water to prevent discoloration.
When you have pared suflicient to make one
quart jar, about twenty-one halves, weigh them,
allowing a quarter pound of sugar to every
liouud tif Pears. Put the Peai-s in a porcelain-
lined kettle, cover with boiling water, and sim-
mer gently until you can pierce them with a
straw. Put the sugar and a pint of water into
another kettle, stir until disolved, then boil and
skim. When the Pears are tender, lift carefully
with a skimmer and slide them into the syrup,
simmer five minutes and can. After sealing,
stand the jars in a warm part of the kitchen
over night. In the morning the covers should
again be tightened, as the glass will contract
after cooling; then put them away in cool, not
cold, dry, dark closet.— Table Talk.
HOUSE PLANTS.
Agapanlhus. Encourage growth by watering and
stimidatlon. Plants done blooming may be cut back
suflicleutly to prevent seeding.
Asters and other annuals, if thrifty and of good
shape, may be carefully lifted and potted for blooming
during fall and winter.
Azaleas. These and other hard-wooded plants had
better be left out In a sheltered situation, where safe
from chills, until October, before being brought Into
the house.
Begonias. The tuberous-rooted kinds should be
taken up before frost and the bulbs dried thoroughly-
They winter best in dry sand.
Bouvardias and others of the more tender plants
for winter decoration may he taken up and potted.
Bulbs of Hyacinth, Tulip, Crocus, Snowdrop and
others for early flowering, may now be started in pots
or boxes.
Cactus that were summered In the border should be
taken up before the fall rains, potted and taken In.
Carnations, Violets and other plants of a similar
degree of hardiness designed for winter flowering, to
be lifted.
Chrysanthemums. Plants in pots to be promptly
.shifted for the last time. Lift bedded plants. Water
ing twice a week with liquid manure will aid In growth
and flowers. Keep the exhibition plants staked and
tied up for inducing shapeliness. Look out for cater-
pillars.
Fuchsias to be given a rest as they cease to flower.
General Directions. Have everything ready to re-
ceive the plants In case they must he taken In suddenly.
Plants lu pots that were summered outside, shoidd be
pruned into proper shape and the pots washed . If the
ball shows that the roots are crowded and cramped,
use a pot a size or two larger. Top-dress all with rich
soil. In lifting plants from the beds, work with much
care to retain all the roots. A large ball of earth, plant
in center, may be lifted with a spade, and reduced for
the pot by the use of a pointed stick. Have pots from
four to eight Inches across on hand, and use them as
small as will answer. Work good soil firmly between
the ball of earth and the pots. Then water well, set
closely together in the shade f()r a week, sprinkling the
foliage lightly half a dozen times dally; afterwards
give more space and light, hut avoid full sunlight yet
for two weeks. Plants that have bloomed all summer
require to be severely cut back, both top and at the
roots. Store good potting soil In the cellar, also sand,
moss, sods, etc.
Hanging baskets and vases may yet be left out If
carefully protected on cool aud frosty nights.
Mignonette. Sow seeds of this and any other annual
that may be desired for the window garden.
Oxalis may now be start-ed Into growth, and will
make excellent window plants. Among the best for
this purpose are O. florlbunda, lutea, Bowerl, etc.
Roses. The repotting or lifting of plants Intended
for winter bloom should now no longer be deferred.
Old fibrous sods, finely divided but not sifted, with
one-third of Its bidk well-decayed manure makes the
best potting soil for Roses,
Tuberoses not yet done flowering may he taken up
and potted.
Verbenas to be kept over, should consist of young
plants propagated from tender shoots after middle of
this month.
LAWN AND FLOWER GARDEN.
Bulbs. Prepare bed of hardy bulbs, such as Hya-
cinth, Tulip, Crocus, etc., at once, and begin planting
just as soon as bulbs can be obtained from the dealer.
Rotten cow-dung is perhaps the best fertilizer for all
these bulbs. For fine effect sot Tulips five Inches, Hya-
cinths seven inches, and smaller-sized bulbs, such as
Crocus and Snowdrops, two of three inches apart each
way. Set the smaller buds four Inches deep and the
larger ones about six Inches. Narcissus. Crocus and
Snowdrops are well suited for close clumps by them-
selves.
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
265
Evergreens. If any pruning has yet to be done, be-
cause overlooked earlier In the season, this should not
be long delaye<i. In late summer the resin whk-h
exudes from the cut branches, prevents Injurious ex-
posure to the air. Where the trees have been properl>'
nourished with well-rotted manure, the effect will
show In stronger growth and Intensity of color.
EverlastinKs. The flowers should be cut when
about half open, and dried In the shade.
Dahlias. Attend to the proper staking. They need
stakes at the side branches as much as at the main.
ForBet-Me-Nots to be divided early tn the month.
They will then become well established before winter,
and belter able to endure thehardshlpsof winter, with
its unavoidable freezing and thawlnK.
Fall Frosts. The Hrst of these often occurs latter
part of the month. Be on your guard, and when a
frost Is anticipated, cover up all tender things out-doors
that maj* yet be useful In the days of flne, warm
weather usually following after such first one or two
frosty night.
Gladiolus. The bulbs will develop all the better if
the flower stalks are cut off before seed begins to form
and ripen.
Hanging baskets and vases may be kept in good
condition and attractive for some time, If protected
from the tlrst fall frost.
Labels. Where It is desired that the names of var-
ieties be preserved, the proper labels should be put on
Dahlias, Gladiolus, etc., before frost destroys the tops.
Lawn. Cooler autumn weather and more frequent
rains promote the growth of the grass, consequentli-
the lawQ mower should be used more frequently.
Sow seed where the grass Is thin.
Lobelia cardinalis makes a very attractive plant
when grown In clumps. It is a native and easllj'
grown from see^l. Sow them as soon as ripe. Old
plants may be divided In October or in spring.
Planting. All trees, shrubs and bulbs to be planted
this fall should be ordered now; bulbs to be delivered
and planted as early as can be. It is well to tell your
dealer that no trees and shrubs are wanted except
such as are dug after the leaves have fullj matured.
Then have the stock sent on, and plant them the
sooner the better.
Perennials. Pseonies, Phloxes, Lilies, Irises, etc.,
will have finished their growth. The clumps of all
such may be taken up. divided and reset.
Tritomas to be given an occasional dose of liquid
manure to assist them in perfecting their flower spikes.
Violets. Make a bed for flowers in early spring.
Prepare a frame with well-enriched soil, and plant
with vigorous plants from runners.
PLANT CULTURE UNDER GLASS.
Acacia. Water regularly, else the plants will lose
flowers and foliage.
Begonias now coming into bloom, like a suimy situ-
ation. .A.pp!y liquid manure from time to time.
Bonvardia, Carnations, Stevia, Violets, etc , are often
lifted and budded out in the plant houses. When this
is done keep the house close, shaded and frequently
sprinkled for a week or two, afterwards gradually
giving more light and air.
Chrysantbemoms. See under "House Plants."
Cinerarias. Prick out seedlings as soon as they can
be handled. Into pots or pans. Admit air and water as
required. A cool, airy situation is best for the plants
now getting in shape for flowering.
Dracenas. Repot this month if required at all.
General Directions. The greenhouse should now be
put In perfect shape for receiving plants. Make a
final thorough inspection of the whole arrangement.
See that heater and pipes are in working order. Be-
fore getting the stock into winter quarters, give the
house also a thorough fumigation with Tobacco stems,
repeating twice each week all through the greenhouse
season. Some of the more tender warm house plants
may need a fire started up during some of these cool
nights: but for the ordinary greenhouse plants we
would put off "firing up" until absolutely needed.
Air freely, and guard against aphis, thrips, etc., by
fumigation, as mentioned, as also by strewing Tobacco
among the pots.
Hebeclinnms when rapi<lly growing should be
given an occasional application of liquid manure.
Hardy bnlbs for early winter flowering should be
potted as soon as they can be procured from the dealer.
Use well-drained pots, and a light, rich soil, containing
sufficient sand to keep it open. Set In a dark place at
first, until the roots have become well developed.
Orchids. As the days shorten, less moisture should
be given to most varieties. A low temperature during
winter to keep these plants almost dormant is the best
treatment.
Plunged plants must be brought in before frost can
do them Injury. Small plants may go into frames for
a while, where protection in bad weather can be given.
Frimnlas should be guarded against over-watering,
and the double white against too much sun.
Propagation ot a general stock of tender plants to
be Increased during fall and winter for spring and
later use, should now be begun. Whenever pot plants
show young growth fit for the purpose, use It for cut-
tings. Pot them off at the flrst sign of roots.
Syringe the newly planted houses occasionally, and
give free ventilation when the weather L« favorable.
FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD.
Apples. Gather them as they mature, and save
carefully.
Blackberries and Raspberries now need no further
cultivation.
Borers. All young trees need a through inspection
at this time for lK)rers. Dig them out or wire them.
Budding. This Is the usual monthfor budding Peach
trees, and still in season for all trees yet making vig-
orous growth, as Indicated by the readiness with which
the bark lifts from the stock. Cut the tieing material
on earlier set buds. Re-bud where the flrst attempt
was a failure.
General Directions. We can only repeat that it will
pay the grower to take the utmost care In saving and
utilizing his fruit this season, because it Is scarce and
will be dear. There will be little necessity for thin-
ning anywhere, nor for propping. Refrain from sow-
ing grain In young orchards.
Grapes should be packed In boxes holding three and
five pounds, of wood or pasteboard, according to the
usage of the market. Large quantities are shipped in
handled baskets, holding ten pounds, with a cover of
some thin stuff. Use scissors in gathering; those
which hold the bunch after it is cut are convenient,
and allow one to avoid handling the fruit. Fine ap-
pearance depends upon preserving the bloom.
Marketing. See advice given under this heading In
August number.
Pears of most varieties are better if ripened indoors.
The proper time to gather them is indicated by the
ease with which the stem parts from the branch, when
the fruit Is slightly lifted up.
Picking. The returns for our fruit are greatly in-
fluenced by the care with which they are gathered.
Peaches, Plums, and even Apples and Pears, ought to
be handled as carefully as eggs; and they ought to be
picked just when at the proper degree of ripeness, so
they will reach the consumer when tn the height of
perfection.
Planting. When the soil can be properly prepared,
and trees to be had with wood and foliage thoroughly
matured, fall planting is advisable for all but stone
fruits. Trees should be ordered early.
Pruning may be doue after the foliage has fully
matured. Young trees should have all superfluous
shoots removed, and the head brought into shape.
Strawberry beds should be gone over occasionally
to remove all weeds, so that none will go to seed.
VEGETABLE GARDEN.
Asparagus. It is now time to remove the tops, in
order to prevent them from scattering seed. Toung
plants thus started are worse than weeds. New beds
may be set out any time in the fall, if the soil is well
drained and well prepared.
Beans. The ripe seed of the bush varieties may be
gathered and tised in place of the common field Beans
for the table. Lima Beans for seed should be taken
from the pods nearest the ground.
Cabbage and Cauliflower. Seed for the early crop
should be sown this month; the plants to be wintered
in cold frames. It is usually best to make two sowings,
one on Sept. 15th and other Sept. 20th. The young
plants should be set into the frames about November
1st. Hoe the fall crop often.
Celery. Keep them growing thriftily by frequent
cultivation and hoeing, Earth up the early crop, and
give to the later one Its first handling.
Com. Save seed from the best hills in the patch.
To dry Sweet Corn, boll until the milk is set, cut from
the cob and dry quickly.
Cresses, if desired for any purpose, may yet be sown.
Egg Plants. Encourage growth vrlth liquid manure.
Guard against the fall frosts.
Kale. The hardy sorts may yet be sown, best thinly
in drills. The young plants may be thinned out as
needed and used for greens. Growth will continue
more or less all winter.
Lettuce may be sown In open ground to be set out
In frames later on.
Melons. The late fruit which has no chance of
reaching maturity, might as well be removed at once.
Onions. The dying tops give indication that the
crop is ready for harvesting. Pull and leave In wind-
ows until the tops are well dried: then top and leave
in hills to cure, sell, or store for winter. Seed may be
sown late to remain out all winter for early spring.
Peppers should not be exposed to frost. Plants may
be pulled up and hung somewhere under shelter, where
they will continue to ripen their fruit.
Spinach may now be sown for early spring greens.
Have rows one foot apart; sow plenty of seed and firm
the ground well. If too thick, thin in November, using
the thinnings for greens.
Root Crops. Hoe between the rows as long as the
foliage permits. Afterwards pull up all stray weeds
to prevent their seeding.
Squashes. The winter sorts should be gathered and
housed before frost.
Tomatoes. If frost Is threatened, protect a»meof
the plants to have a late supply; also gather the fruit
on those left unprotected. All fully developed speci-
mens, if exxKJsed to the sun, under glass If necessary,
will gradually ripen. The green ones may be used for
pickling material. There Is usually also a ready de-
mand for green Tomatoes In the markets.
Turnips. Continue cultivation, hoeing and weeding.
Thin where too close. The early sorts may still be
sown with good prospects of getting a crop, except at
the extreme north.
FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER
GLASS.
Oncnmbeis. If wanted during Januar>- and later,
start seeds now and grow in high heat. Air freely, but
do not stimulate growth otherwise much at the start.
Grapes. In early hotises the wood has ripened, and
leaves begin to drop. Prune the vines and cleanse the
canes. It Is also now the best time to wash or paint
the Inside wood-work of the house. In later houses,
where fruit has not yet ripened, keep the temperature
at about 55^ to 60* at night, with 10« or 15* higher by
day. When the fruit Is ripe the atmosphere should be
kept rather dry.
THE POULTRY YARD.
Improve the Breed. Avoid inbreeding. Get
new, and if possible, better blood from time to
time. Now is the season to purchase the needed
cockerels, and whilst you are about it, gel good
ones only.
Charcoal mixed with soft feed for all kinds of
poultry is better and cheaper than any condition
powder, because it does good and is harmless,
which cannot be said of patent nostrums.— Texas
Farm and Ranch.
Give Them Whole Wheat. When hens begin
shedding their feathers, they generally begin to
quit laying. If they are fed on good healthy food
that is easily digested, and esi>ecially green stuff,
they will continue to drop an occasional egg all
through the moulting season.
Bequiflites for September. As long as the
season remains hot, perfect ventilation of the
poultry houses, and treciuent cleansing and de-
odorizing can be neglected only at the risk of
health ami perhaps lives of fowls. Use air-siacked
lime and sifted wood ashes, and the kerosene
spray often and thoroughly. '
Care Always Pays. Care bestowed upon poul-
try is not lost by any means, for the fowls appre-
ciate kindness and attention, and are very quick
in returning favors in the shape of nice fresh
eggs. The better the care, and the more varied
the diet, the better will Ije the results obtained,
and consequent increased profit for the keeper.
Sow some Eye for PastuTe. Hens need some
kind of green food every day, and there is noth-
ing better than green rye in its season. Prepare
a piece of ground near the poultry house for this
purpose, and sow the Kye without delay. If put
in later it may be eaten off as fast as it grows
and thus destroyed. It should get a good start
before the hens are turned in.
The Late Chickens. Chicks hatched very late
never amount to much unless well taken c*areof,
liberally and often fed, and sheltered during pro-
longed rains. We like a few late pullets, as they,
if properly handled, will give us eggs until
late next summer when other fowls cease laying.
The late cockerels, however, should go into the
kettle, or to market, at an early opportunity.
The Dust Bath. Any roomy box will answer
for the hens to dust themselves in. A cheese
box is good and very often used. It is the same
as a bath, and equally as important to a fowl as
a washing is to a dirty i>erson. Good road dust
with a mixture of sulphur is the best. Ashes, if
allowed in the pen of fowls with yellow legs, will
ruin them for exhibition purposes.— F. and H.
Weeding-out the Flock. Now is the time to
begin. Select your best pullets and the best of
the cocks, to the number required, and dispose
of the rest, old and young. It is not usiially
profitable to hold for higher prices. If not in
tirst-rate condition, separate the fowls to be dis-
carded from those to be kept, and give them all
the Corn Ihey will eat. It will soon make them
fat enough for market or the table.
Divide the Flocks, It is universally conceded
that the best results are from small fiocks. When
too many are kept together there is a constant
struggle for existence, the stronger ones bully-
ing the weaker ones. There is no difficulty in
keeping a large number of hens if they are pro-
perly divided: that is, not over one cock and 25
hens in a flock for the active breeds, and not over
one cock to 12 hens for the quiet breeds. If divi-
ded in this manner the best result can be ob-
tained. Two cocks should never be kept in the
same flock.— Ohio Farmer.
Give them Grit. When your hens are droopy
and seem anxiously searching for something,
and refuse to eat, give them grit. When they
seem crop-bound, with the crop soft and water
running out of the mouth, give tnem grit. When
they do not lay and waste a portion of their food,
give them grit. When they molt slowly or have
bowel disease, give them grit. If you want to
prevent cholera by having the flock %'igorous,
give them grit. If it is desirable to have the
hens derive all the nutrition in the fo(K3, give
them grit. If it is desired to make the hens get
every particle of lime from the food and thus
return good, hard-shelled eggs, feed them this
sovereign need.— Farmer and Stockman.
266
POPULAR GARDENING.
September,
CorrespondentH are uryed to anticipate the aeaaon in pre
tenting 'Tuestions. To ask, for inittaTWe, on April l^ or £0
what Peaa had bent be aoum, could bring no answer in
the Mat/ issue, and none before June, when the answer
would be unseasonable. Questions receivedbefore the litn
of any month stand a good chance of being answered tn the
next paper. Not more than three questions should be sent
at one time. Answers to questions bearina on tMcom-
parative value of implements, etc., offered by different
dealers must not be expected. Neither can we promise to
comply with tne request sometimes made to "please answer
by mail." Inquiries appearing unthout name belong to the
name next following .
Replies to Inquiries are earnestly requested from our
readers. In answering such give the number, your
locality and name, the latter not for publication, unless
you desire. Write only on one side of the paper.
1,97U. Celery Blieht. OutslUe leaves are affected
with yellow and brown spots, and die of. What Is the
cause and remedy?— SrBsoRlBER, Mercer Co.. Pa,
!.971. Irrigating a Knoll. Level of water supply
ten inches below highest point. What Is best means
of raising the water? Can I do so by making use of
the pressure of one foot at mouth of flume thorough
an aperture, and force It out of other end through a
great deal smaller aperture?— F. R. W., Riverside, Cat.
1.972. Lucretia Dewberry. Is it a good fruit for
market? Iff so. where can 1 get a few thousand plants
cheap and true to name? 3. \.Vi ., Klickitat Co., Wash.
1.973. Phosphoric Acid in Bones. What percent,
age of the acid U cotalned in bones when burnt to
ashes?
1.974. Rotten Wood as Fertilizer. Is it of any
value?
1,975. Nitrate of Soda. Where can it be obtained
and at what price?— W. L. H., Fort Collins, Col.
1.976. Wintering Spinach. Can the plants be dug
up in autumn and wintered successfully in pits like
Celery?-M. E. W.. Mich.
1.977. Pears in Alabama. W hat kind would be best
here for orchard planting? Will heavy clay underlaid
with gravel do tor Pears? The land is very level and a
little cold, but uo water standing on it.
1.978. Apple Twig Blight. Ends of twigs have been
dying down quite badly. What is the cause and how
cured?— J. S., Floreiice, Ala.
1.979. Ants on Lawn. How can I best dispose of a
colony of small red ants on my lawn?— G. H. C, Jr.
Edsallville, Pa.
1.980. Remedy for Tomato Worm. Worms are
boring holes into the Tomatoes, doing much damage.
Can you suggest remedy?- H. C. C, Memphis, Tenn,
1.981. Quince-leaf Blight. Ends of the top limbs
are dying. What is the trouble and best treatment?—
H. P."W., .SV. Catharines, Onl.
1,983. Plan of Ice House. Can you give plan for
keeping small ijuantity of ice, say two tons, for family
use during summer?— W. T. Q„ Wauken, Iowa.
1.983. Black Spot of Rose. Can you suggest a pre-
ventive or cure?— Rose Lover, Pa.
1.984. Broom Corn Culture. Please tell how grown
and prepared for market?- W. S. M., Virginia.
1,935. Maple Bark Louse. How can I clear my fine
shade trees of this pe8t?~E. N. T., Ohio.
1,986. The Wine Plant. This some years ago was
sent out as a new variety of Rhubarb, from which a
choice wine could be made. What is the truth about
thls?-VV. R.Siioouer. Wis.
1,9-7. Exochordia grandiflora. The leaves turned
brown at the edges: In June the foliage all burnt up.
and plant died, shall get another plant. How must it
be treated?- E. R., Ida Grove, Iowa.
1,988. Skeleton Lily. What is its botanical name?
1,9S9. LiliumKrameri. Is It as hardy asL.auratum?
E. P. R., Kennebunk, Me.
1.990. Lime Water ior Earth Worms, How pre-
pared to be safe for use on Begonias, etc.? How often
to be applied?— U. A. B„ Scranton, Pa.
1.991. Manure for Rose Beds. Would a dressing of
bone dust or nitrate of soda restore exhausted beds?
When should it be applied? Where can nitrate of soda
be obtained?
1.992. Tuberous-rooted Begonias. How propa-
gated?—H. K. D., W. I'll.
1.993. Orange Rust on Raspberries. One bush in
every five Is alfected. What can 1 do? What is the
cause of the disease?— S. W. H., Henry Co., Illinois.
1.994. Keeping Cider Sweet. How best done with-
out the use of dangerous chendcals?— Walther. Conn.
1.995. Sweet Violets for Cut Flower Trade. Please
tell me about making frames for growing them In,
variety of soil, distance between plants, general treat
ment, variety, etc.?— U. A. S., Queens Co., N. V.
1.996. Golden Elder Leaves Dying. What is the
cause and remedy? La-st ye^r was wet, this year is
dry, but the partial burning or dying is the same.—
Wm. R. C, Mass.
1.997. Keeping Seed Beans Pure. Is it safe to gather
Beans for seed where more than one variety is grown?
I wish to keep them pure.— subscriber. Conn,
1.998. Plant-Eating Lady Bug. What can be done
for the hairy slug that eats our Bean leaves?— R. S. T.,
Coloradx>.
1.999. Remedy for Ants. Lawn infested with black
and red ants. What is the best remedy?— H. J. S.,
Chicago, Ills.
2,000. Wintering Monthly Roses in Open Ground.
How best done?- R. M. S., Indiana.
2.001. Mango and Cauliflower Pickles. Please give
a few good recipes.- R. S. N., Oft to.
3.002. Preventing Tomato Rot. Krult is badly
struck with a black rot at the free end. What can we
do for it?- W. S., Yarmouth, Mass.
2.003. Eradicating Burdocks. Notwithstanding
frequent cutting they manage to live. What is to be
done?- F. S. N., Ontario.
3.004. Top-Set Onions. What relation have these
to the black seed Onions?- Si'bscribek.
3.l«i5. Best Harrow for the Orchardist. Which Is
II/-0. S. F., Pa.
2.0<>6. Winter Covering for Fansies, Spinach, etc.
What material is best?— W.ykmdth, N. Y.
2,l*yi. Roses for Out-Door Culture. Please name a
few of the best of each class.— G. S. W., Syracuse, N, Y.
2,008. Pruning Pear Trees. How should this be
done?— Inquirer.
2,0*jy. Flowers for Perfumery Purposes. Can
flowers be used to scent hair oils, or to make perfumery
In a simple and practical way?— M. N. P.. 11, Va.
REPLIES TO INQUIRIES.
1,!<79. Green Fly on Hawthorne. Syringe tree
with stioDg Tobacco water.— H. W. S.
1,891. Cultore of Tropical Frnits. Spons
Tropical Cultivator, published in London, could
be obtained through any large book concern,
possibly for $6.50.— H. W. .S.
1,99.3. Orange Rust on Baipberries, The only
thing that can be done with an.v hope of eradica-
ting the disease, is to pull up and burn every
cane as soon as it shows the affection.
1,967. Weeds on Qarden Paths. The best and
cheapest way of preventing growth of Grass
and small weeds on garden walks is to salt them
during dry weather in the spring with common
salt, it may be sprinkled all over the surface
except near the edges. If the wallis are edged
with Box there will be danger of killing the Box.
It walks are turned over every spring, put into
the best shape (slightly convex) for throwing off
the water, there will not be much trouble with
weeds. A boy or a woman, after a shower, will
soon pull out any weeds which show, and the
roller will make all firm again.— A. H. E.
1,96». Ants in the Garden, We have found
several efficient remedies as follows : A trap is
made, by sinking a small-necked bottle level
with the ground near their entrance; the ants
will run in and fall in, and a few days' perse-
verance will catch a large colony. The ants in
the bottle can be killed by a few drops of
kerosene, and the bottle put into the place again.
Another way is to dig up the hill, early in the
morning when the ants were all in the nest, and
with a pail of water work the nest over
thoroughly until the whole mass was thin mud.
Where toads are very nunierous they cut ni;ui,\-
ants in the garden, but do not tind tlmsi.' on tin.'
sidewalks. We have called them to nvir spmlul
help by building a little pen around the ant hill,
and put into it a good-sized toad, and find no
ants there after a few days.— Bender Bros.,
Munroe To., N. Y.
1,969. How to Force Bhnbarb. If the crowns
of the Rhubarb plants are strong place the roots
in the frame about the first week in December,
or any time from that onwards. They may
stand close together, but all the interstices be-
tween should be filled up with light rich soil
flrml.v rammed in. Keep it well supplied with
moisture, and cover the frame with mats, to
save the heat. Rhubarb forces best in the dark.
-E. H. L., Erie. A. I'.
1,994. Keeping Cider Sweet, cider to be kept
unfermented should be made as late in autumn
as possible, as it would be difficult to keep from
fermenting when made early in the season.
November-made cider, if bunged up tight and
stored where a temperatuse near the freezing
point can be maintained, will probably keep
sweet indefinitely, Some people put in a half-
pound or a pound of Mustard seed to the barrel,
of cider, and others use sulphite of lime in the
same way. The old-time method of scalding is
considered by many people one of the best and
least objectionable methods. We see this de-
scribed as follows : When the cider has slightly
fermented, it should be drawn or dipped from
the casks, where it has been standing to settle,
into large copper kettles or an old copper still.
and be heated Just up up to the boiling point
and no longer, when it should be again put into
open casks to settle and become cold. It will
then be ready to be tightly bunged in barrels
and stored away. During the heating a large
cjuantity of scum will rise to the top to he skim-
med off, and during the <(«>linK most nt the im-
purities still held in solution will he dcpcmited as
sediment in the bottom nt the casks. While
cider thus created will afterwads taste slightly
of the scalding, it will not be unpleasant to those
who like it sweet, and is to be preferred to that
in which fermentation has been arrested by
Mustard seed or chemicals. This process will
stop fermentation at the right point to leave it
sweet, and will quite thoroughly cleanse it from
impurities, but will effect it unfavorably for
making into vinegar afterwards— G. K.
1,8.53. Hollyhock Blight. So far as our own
experience goes, there is no cure for Hollyhock
disease. It is common here in Miissaclnisetts.
We grew them very suciiessfully iti Passaic, N.
J., for yeai'S, but it is useless to attempt jrrowing
them here, owing to the fungus.— E. O. O.
l,9!il. Manure for Kose Beds. There is prob-
ably no better way to restore the fertility of
worn-out Kose beds than by the application of
at least two inches of well-rotted stable manure
and working this thoroughly into the soil to
the depth of one foot. In the absence of suit-
able stable manure bone dust may be applied at
the rate of ten pounds to every one hundred
square feet of surface. This also shoul<l be well
incorporated with the soil to the depth mention-
ed. I would also use nitrate of soda, if to be
used conveniently, in light but repeated dress-
ings, say at the rate of one pound to two hundred
square feet, or in solution at the same rate.
This substance may be bought of ail fertilizer
firms near the sea cost, and costs about g2.50 per
100 pounds in small quantities. In the absence
of nitrate of soda (Chili saltpeter) nitrate of
potash (common saltpeter) applied in somewhat
smaller doses, will probably give good results.
1,857. Slug Shot. We have used this the past
season with excellent success for Potatoe bugs
and slugs : one thorough application cleaned the
vines from the pest within '24 houas, so that
hardly a bug was left to tell the story. There
was no ill effect from the application.— G. K.
1,901. Cu ting Sweet Potato Vines. This was
never done in Northern Indiana, my old home,
where I have grown and seen grown many acres.
There some practised moving or raising the vines
with a fork and rake handle to prevent their
rooting on the sides of the ridges. But they
were never cut until digging time. In Florida,
it is never done except in June or July when
cuttings of the vines are taken off to set new
plantations.— W. C. Steele.
1,891. Cnlture of Tropical Fruits, Florida
Fruits and How to Grow Them, by Helen Har-
court, is a popular treatise on Cultivation of
plants and fruits iii<iuired about. The directions,
however, arc feu- outdoor culture in Florida. I
know of no l)ook gi\ uig dircctn»ns tor cultiva-
ting them in the house in a cold clnnate. By the
use of a little common sense tlic directions of
the above book might be ad.justcd to home cul-
ture.—W. C. Steele.
1,621. Crinum Americanum. This question
"How best kept over winter?" appeared in the
January number. Though out of season, some
information may be useful now. This species is
a native of Florida, being common in this part
of the state and also in the extreme south-
western parts. The tops are usually killed by
frost every winter and when this happens it
rcnmins dormant until spring But if as occa-
sioUiiUv hiipiiens, we have a frostless winter, it
kci-|ps on ^'ro^ving all wiiUer. At the north the
first frost might lie allowed to kill the foliage
and tnen the pot or tub could be kept in any
cellar that is free from frost, keeping the soil
barelv moist enough to prevent the bulb roots
fromshriveling. But much the best way is to
keep the plant growing all the year. If given a
very rich soil, plenty of sunlight and abundant
moisture, the growth and beauty of the siecics
will surprise you. In a wild state it always
grows in very wet places, usually with its roots
in water.— W. C. Steele.
1,985. Maple Bark Louse. The presence of
the pests is shown by the occurrence upon the
twigs of Maple trees, especially on the under
side of a brown, circular, leathery scale about
one-(iuarter of an inch in diameter, beneath
which is a fluffy, cottony mass, that at this time
is alive with hundreds of young lice, appearing
to the untrained eye as minute, white specks
moving about. Soon after hatching they fix
themselves upon the leaves were they remain
throughout the season. They insert a tiny beak
into the leaf and suck the .sap. In autumn
before the foliage drops they desert the leaves
and fasten themselves to the twigs. Much of
the sup that is sucked from the foliage passes
through the bodies and falls to the ground. This
is frequently called honey-dew. The simplest
way of clearing shade trees of the scales and
young lice is by using a stream of water from
the hose, forcing it into the trees and washing
them off. This treatment should be repeated
several times. The more water pressure on at
the time of treating the better. The next
best method is spraying with kerosene emulsion
made by adding two parts of kerosene to f)ne of
a solution made by dissidviug half a pound of
hard soap in one gallon of boiling water, and
churning the mixture through a force pump
with a very small nozzle until the whole forms a
creamy mass, which will thicken into a jelly-like
substance on cooling. The soap solution should
be hot when the kerosene is added, but of course
must not be near the tire. The emulsion thus
made is to be dilutcil licfore using, with twelve
parts cd' cold water. This must be applied soon
after the lice hatch with a force pump and spray
nozzle.
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
267
1,984. Broom Corn CnUnre. Plant in drills
in ^ood hind, making the rows about throe and
one-halt feet apart. The plant,'; when they first
show above the ground are iiuite weak and
spindley-lookiuK, but afterwards take on quite
a thrifty and ^i^rorous appearanee. Cultivators
and hoes are used much the same as in jrrowinK
any ordinary Corn. When the plants have
attained their (f rowth. and the seed is past the
blossoming period, the stjilks are bent over just
l)el(tw the tirst joint. This prevents the crooking
of the straw b.v the weijrht of the maturing
seeds. When the brush hangs straight down and
so ripens, the weight of the seed rather tends to
straighten the straw than otherwise. Sometimes
the parellel rows are broken in opposite direc-
tions and low enough so that the neads overlap
and lie upon another. .\s soon as the seed has
reached maturity and before the brush has
turned brown, the stalks are cut about an inch
above the first joint and the head and stalk are
slipped out of the sheath. The brush is then
piled upon wagons or sleds and drawn to barns
or sheds, in which there has Ijeen erected
scaffolding. Upon this the Corn is spread to
cure. The seeds are removed by running the
heads through swiftly revohing cylinders.which
have long, thin spikes or teeth. These strip off
the seeds and leave the brush ready to sort and
liale, when it is ready to place upon the market.
The thrashing and packing can be done at any
time during the leisure months. The seed which
is removed is useful for the feeding of poultry,
and when ground makes most excellent food for
swine, cattle and horses.
1,982. Plan for I06 Hoose. It is hardly prac"
ticable to keep such a small quantity (two tons'
for use during the summer by ordinary methods.
The greater the bulk put up, and the colder it
was, when put in. the better it will keep under
otherwise similar conditions. All that is needed,
is to put up a s<4uare building of sufficient size to
hold the ice and give a foot or more space be-
tween the ice and the inside walls, which space
is to be filled with dry sawdust, with the same
material two feet deep or more on top of the ice.
Of course the walls of the building should be as
tight as possible, and it made double, with a
dead air-space between, all the better.— G. K.
1,981. Quince Twig Blight. The desease
known as leaf blight is quite common, and attacks
the extreme ends of the twigs of Quinces,
Apples and various other trees, often killing
these twigs to the length of a foot or more. The
injury is usually not very great. Cause unknow.
Cutting away the affected twigs as soon as
noticed is suggested as a remedy.— G. H.
1,981. Bemedy for Tomato Worm. The worm
you complain of as eating holes in the fruit of
the Tomato, is undoubtedly the Corn or Boll
worm so common at the south. We do not known
of a better remedy for it than to pick it off by
band and destroy it.
1,979. Ants on the Lawn. Boiling water,
kerosene, or a solution of fresh insect powder in
water, poured into the hill, will probably make
short work with its inhabitants. Insect Life
(October, 1K90) contains an article on "The
Little Red Ant,'" by Prof. C. V. Riley, in which
he suggests the use of kerosene, pyrethrum, or
bi-sulphide of carbon. Where the nests are out-
side nothing is easier than to find them and to
destroy the inhabitants with kerosene or bisul-
phide of carbon, he says. The nests are almost
always in the immediate vicinity of the house.
The auts are peculiarly susceptible to the action
of pyrethrum in any form, be it Persian or Dal-
matian powder or buhach, and a free and persist-
ent use of this powder will accomplish much.
The best means of trapping ants consists in
placing small bits of sponge moistened with
sweetened water in the spots were the anta con-
gregate, collecting the sponges once a day or so,
soaking them in hot water and then replacing
them. Small bits of bread and poisoned molases
or small vessels of lard in which a few drops of
oxalic acid have been put have also l)een recom-
mended, as well as tiie free use of borax, so
often advised tor roaches. A much larger black
or brownish ant often builds its nests in door-
yards so close to the houses that it becomes a
great nuisance. A case was brought to my
notice two years ago in Washington, where a
large colony was completely destroyed by the
use of bisulphide of carbon. A teaspoonful was
poured down each of a numljer of openings,
and a damp blanket was thrown over them for a
few minutes. Then the blanket being removed,
the bisulphide was exploded at the mouth of
each hole by means or a light at the end of a
Fole. The slight explosions drove the poisonous
umes down through the underground tunnels,
killing off the ants in enormous numbers.
1,974. BottenWood as Fertilizer. This con-
tains some plant food, although as a manure it
is not very rich. If thoroughly rotten, it can
always be applied with advantage on both clayey
and sandy soils, and will improve the mechani-
cal texture of either.— G. R.
l,97.i. Nitrate of Soda, This can be had from
any of the leading fertilizer firms, and at' pres-
ent costs about S40 per ton at the sea ports.
More is charged in proportion for small quanti-
ties.-G. K.
1,976, 'Wintering Spinach. No wc don't think
Spinach can be dug up and wintered in pits like
Celery. The only thing to be done is to leave
the plants out in the field until spring, giving
some protection by covering with Kvcrgreen
boughs or other litter. Of course .Spinat-u can
be grown during winter in forcing pits, or hot-
beds heated with Hues or pipes.— (i. It.
l.snio. Lime Water for Earth Wormi, Lime
water can be used with perfect safety on Be-
gonias and other potted plants, for the purpose
you name. Put a piece of freshl.i burnt lime,
size of an egg, into a bucketful of water; let
settle and use the clear liquid on top, putting in
enough to soak up the earth in the pot. This
will kill the worms.
1,973. Phosphoric Acid in Bone- Fresh bones
contain about one quarter their weight phos-
phoric acid in the form of phosphate of lime.
In the process of burning all the organic sub-
stances are driven off, and nothing remains but
phosphate of lime, m almost a pure state. Al-
most one-half of this is phosphoric acid.— G. R.
1,972. Lncretia Dewberry. This is now being
grown for market in many localities, and gives
good satisfaction. Wherever you find a brisk
demand for Blackberries the Lucretia is likely
to sell well. All leading nurserymen keep the
plants in stock. Send for the Catalogues when
the time comes, compare prices, and order your
plants from any reliable dealer you chose.
1,998. Plant-Eating Lady Bug. There is only
one of the lady bugs which is plant-feeding in
its habits— this is Lachtiostei-va comtpta—the
black sheep in the family. The only thing 1
know of that can be done in the case, is to apply
Paris green to the infested plants when this can
be done without injury to people.— G. R.
1,997. Keeping Seed Beans Fare. The different
varieties of bush and pole Beans mix very readily
when planted near each other, and under such
conditions cannot be expected to keep pure. To
be suie of the purity of any one variety, it must
be planted alone by itself. The Liina Reans,
however, are true blue blood— the aristocrats
among Beans, and while apt tu cross with other
Lima varieties, as a rule disdain to mix with the
rabble — i. c, with the ordinary Beans. Conse-
quently we may plant one variety of the Limas
and one of the ottiers in close proximity without
fear of tainting the purity ot the seed of either
sort.
1,98:3. Black Spot of Boses. This is a parasitic
fungus which manifests itself in the form of
round or irregularly shaped black spots upon the
upper surface of the leaves. Generally only the
full grown leaves are attacked, and it gradually
spreads through them, destroying the circulation
ot the sap and causing a premature fall of the
foliage. The Moss Roses and Hardy Hybrid Per-
petuals are more subject than the Tea or Monthly
class to this disease. There is no known certain
remedy for it, up to the present time. The only
thing "to be done is to pick off and burn all
affected leaves so as to prevent its spread, as it is
quickly contagious. It is usually a consequence
of an injury to the roots either by an excess of
mositure or an excess of drought. Ween grown
out of doors the danger from drought ma.v be
remedied by watering— but nothing can guard
against injury from dull, wet weather.— From an
emay hy Fetcr Heniierson.
1,9.59. Depth of Planting Potatoes. We have
worked at the problem of best depth for many
years, and finally have settled upon four inches
under average conditions. This is deep enough
to get the roots into the stratum of perpetual
moisture, and afford ample room for the tubers
to form between the seed piece and the surface
of the ground. Of course we practice level
culture, or nearly that. When planting small
seed pieces, especially single eyes, however,
which we seldom do, three inches depth is prob-
ably better, especiallj' if the soil is not in really
perfect condition as to mellowness. Single eyes
are usually slow to come up, and many pieces
fail altogether, if the conditions of growth are
not all perfect. People who practice hilling —
which we not advise — may plant nearer to the
surface Deeper planting then four inches in-
volves too much labor in digging to suit us.
2,000. Wintering Monthly Boses in Open Air.
The Monthly Roses are only half hardy, and con-
sequently are liable to be winter-kiUed where the
thermometer falls .15 degrees below the freezing
point. The best way to protect them, according
to our past experience, is to bend the bran-
ches down and fasten them securely within
two or three inches of the ground, by tying them
to stakes driven in for that purpose, or if close
enough they may be tied to each other. Then
spread dry leaves Or rough litter over them to a
depth of say six inches. This should not be done,
however, until severe cold weather sets in, so
that nearly all the leaves are off the plants and
they are thoroughly ripened, which is usually
about December 1st in the latitude of New York
State. This covering should not be. taken off.until
all danger of severe frost is over, say about April
first.
1,918. Buffalo Berry. The Cold Spring Seed
Farm, Big Horn City, Sheridan Co., Wyo., can
supply jilants of Sheperdia argentca at .in cents
each by mail post paid. The fruit is said to be
of good (luality, and the tree or bush hardy. It
is a native of Wyoming,— G. 11.
2.001. Mango and Canliflower Pickles. To
pickle I'aulillowcr, select white, close heads,
sprinkle them with plent.v of salt, and let them
stand in an earthen dish twenty-four hours.
Then drain, break up in rather small pieces, and
wash thoroughly in cold water. Steam a few at
a time until they are tender; then put in glass
jars, or small stone ones. Make a pickle by
adding one-half pound of sugar, one ounce of
white Pepper, and one ounce of whole Mustard
seed to half a gallon of vinegar, and bringing it
to a scalding heat. Fill the jars and cover
closely. To make Mango pickles, take small
green Musk Melons, and cut a piece out of one
side, then scrape out the seeds carefully with a
teaspoon. Make a strong brine with salt and let
the melons stand in it twenty-four hours. Chop
a head of white Cabbage and tour good-sized
Onions; add half a teacupful ot grated Horse
Radish, two tablespoonsful of white Mustard
seed, one tablespoonful of cloves. Mix all well
together and fill the Melons; sew in the pieces
and put in a large-mouthed jar. Pour scalding
vinegar over them. Let them stand four days.
Pour off the vinegar and re-heat. Do this three
times, then throw away the vinegar and add
new. Green Peppers can be substituted for the
Melons if preferred.
1,858. Melon Blight. The character of this
disease, although this is quite prevalent through-
out large sections of the United .States, is not yet
well understood, and the diligent application of
even so powerful fungicides as the Bordeaux
mixture and other copper solutions has not been
attended with uniform or even satisfactory suc-
cess. The only thing that has seemed to partially
prevent the attacks of the disease is covering the
vines lightly with hay or other litter.
2.007. Boses for Ont-door Cidtnre. w. H.
Taplin recommends the following: Among
Hybrid Perpetuals : Alfred Colomb, bright
crimson; .Anna de Diesbach, carmine ; Eugenie
Verdier, silvery-pink; Fisher Holmes, deep
crimson ; General Jacqueminot, the well-known
popular variety; John Hopper, bright Rose;
Marie Baumann, carmme-crimsou. Among "Teas,
BonSilene; Souvenir d'un Ami and Marie Van
Houtte are about the most satistactorj- for out-
door culture. Souvenir de la Malmaison is still
the best known, and most satisfactory Bengal
variety. For white flowers the following may
be added : Madame Plantier (Hybrid China) lor
early flowering, and Coquette des Blanches (Hy-
brid Noisette) for late blooms. If a representa-
tive ot the Hybrid Teas is desired. La France is
decidedly the most satisfactory, but like most
of its class, and also the pure Teas, it needs some
protection in severe winters, at least it planted
in an exposed position.
2.008. Prnning Pears, The dwarf sorts should
be trained in a pjTamid form, which can be
easily done by pinching the tips of the young
shoots that seem to get too much of a start in
the summer. The first two years when they
make long growths they may be cut back half
the previous year's growth in the spring, stand-
ard's need but little trimming, unless such strong
growers as Le Coute, Garber and Kieffer. These
should be cut back for a few years, or they will
Ukely to break down when they begin to bear.
After bearing a crop this will not be necessary.
So says Judge Miller.
1,996. Bolden Elder Leaves Dying. That
peculiarity of the Golden Elder which leads the
foliage to assume the yellow color, is accounted
for by an enfeebled condition of growth, which
at times leads the weaker parts of the shrub to
become affected in the manner you describe.
This is more noticeable in newly planted shrubs
than in those which have become well established.
Vou may haye observed that various parts of
the plants present different shades of yellow, and
that it is the brighter shades which are most
liable to be burned. L'nder ordinary conditions
we would simply suggest that as such parts be-
come burned they should be pinched out, which
will give the less intensely colored parts more
strength for growth, and thus tend to promote
the growth of the foliage possessing 4hat degree
of color which is less likely to be thus injured.
It this shrub be planted where it is partly pro-
tected from the sun in the middle of the day, leaf
burning will be obviated. It is usually the plants
that are most exposed which suffer tfie most.
2.009. Flowers for Perfumery Purposes. Puri-
fied lard, tallow, or olive oil, placed in a tight
vessel with a quantity of fragrant flowers. Will
absorb the odor, but in order to saturate a
pomade or oil with perfume the flowers should
be renewed daily for months. Fragrant essences
are obtained by the distillation of flowers thrown
into large copper retorts with water and exposed
to heat. The scented waters are made b.v placing
alcohol in the condensing tank used iii distilla-
tion, and this condenses and absorbs the odorous
\apor until it becomes fragrant. As a rule il
will be cheaper to purchase perfumery than its
home manutacture.
268
POPULAR GARDENING.
September,
1,995. Sweet Violets for Cut Flower Trade.
From your questions, we iufer that you desire
to grow VioJets on but a small scale. In our
own experience, we have never been successful
in forcing them in ordinary frames, but have
confined our culture in latter years to green-
houses about ten feet wide, the roof consisting
of ordinary sash which extended to the ridge,
the alternate ones of which were made to lift at
the top. Formerly there were many advocates
of Violet culture in frames, but this practice has
been largely abandoned, and houses similar to
the one described have with better success been
used in their stead. These houses are of very
simple construction in many cases. The sides
are often made of 2x4 inch uprights covered on
the exterior by building felt and matched stuff
or clapboards, and the inside with matched stuff.
The sash roof consists simply of rafters extend-
ing from gutter board to ridge and
at a distance apart to receive the
sash with a lap of at least one inch
on each side. These rafters are placed
opposite each other and a short pur-
loin strip of wood or iron rod is at-
tached from each rafter to the one
opposite at such a height as will ad-
mit of head room in the walk of the
house which is directly under the
ridge. A common cross sectional size
for the rafter is «x4 inches, laying
this flat ways. Some builders
strengthen the rafters by nailing a
cleat IJ^xlJ^ inches lengthwise of
the rafter on the outside, said cleat
coming between the sash and ser\ -
ing also to keep out the cold. In
cultivation, some grow Violets in
pots, while others plant them out on
the bench, the latter method being
most generally preferred. In eithirr
case the benches to accommodate
the plants should be near the glass in
oidei- to have the advantage of both
light and air. The soil preferred for
Violets is a strong calcareous loam,
one from which moisture will readi-
ly escape. Under the soil there should
be no confined heat. In watering the plants it is
of utmost importance not to wet the foliage.
The vai'ieties most generally cultivated are
Marie Louise, and Neapolitan. The cost of frame
will depend entirely upon its size, the cost of
labor, lumber, etc., all of which are variable.
Violets require a low temperature, not to exceed
40 degrees at night, and 30 or 30 degrees higher
during the day, ventilating freely in all suitable
weather. And as the V^iolet is nearly or quite
hardy, there can be no objection to (jpening the
frames to an extent that would not be suited
to average greenhouse plants. Another impor-
tant requirement is that of keeping the jjlants
clear of runners which will start freely, and of
all decayed leaves. It may be added that the
business of Violet growing is one in which there
is greater liability of failure than in that of
most other plant-^, but with careful attention to
the points given failure should be rare, while
without it success need hardly be expected.— E.
1,978. Apple Twig Blight. This is the same
disease thatalso attacks Quinces, Pears and other
trees, killing the ends of twig's. It seldom does
serious injury. We cannot name a cause, nor
suggest a reliable remedy.— E. K.
2,003. Preventing Tomato Hot. The only thing
that to our knowledge can be done to prevent
the rotting of Tomatoes, and blighting of the
leaves, is spraying the plants with Bordeaux
mixture, or other copper solutions. - E. R.
3,00:i. Eradicating Burdock. If cut deep
enough below the surface of the ground, they
will not sprout again. You can also make a sure
job of killing them by applying a few drops of
some powerful acid (sulphuric, for instance),
or a tcaspoonful of turpentine or kerosene upon
the root after cutting otythe top.— E. R.
1,970. Celery Blight. The yellow and brown
spots on the leaves, and the decay of the latter,
indicate the work of the C«lery Leaf Blight.
This usually appears during a spell of hot and
dry weather, and after once having got a foot-
hold in a patch is liable to do serious damage,
unless checked by cooler and moisture weather,
as the disease is very contagious. I have seen it
continue its work of destruction sometimes not
only during the late fall months, notwithstand-
ing pleutiful rains, and quite cold weather, but
also in the cellar and in the trenches after the
plants had been put in winter quarters. Appli-
cation of fungicides have proved of little or no
avail thus far. Shading the plants, as suggested
by Prof. B. T. Galloway (Report of section of
Vegetable Pathology, U. S. Department of Agri-
culture 1888), perhaps mulching on carefully
selected cool and moist ground, may be means of
avoiding attack of this dreaded malady. So far
as our observations have extended, says Prof,
(ialloway, the disease occasions the greatest in-
jury in sections where the summers are long,
hot, and dry. In regions where the soil through-
out the months is cool and moist, and the air is
also in a constantly humid condition, the disease
is unknown. Just such conditions as the fore-
going are to be met with in the vicinity of Kala-
mazoo, Jlich., where the finest Celery in the
country is grown. Where it is not practicable to
shade plants by natural means, artificial shades
in the shape of screens made of coarse sacking or
laths will be found fully as effectual. Lath
screens are preferable to those made of cloth ;
they are cheap and easily made by nailing the
laths at each end to two narrow boards 10 feet in
length. The laths are usually placed about 1
inch apart, thus allowing plenty of air to reach
the plants, at the same time effectually shading
them. Such screens when finished are 4 feet
wide and 10 feet in length; they may be sup-
ported by posts driven down on either side of the
bed, the height of the former of course depend-
ing upon the size of the plants. As the plants
increase in size the screens may easily be raised.
GUMMING OF ROMAN HYACINTH BULBS.
At the approach of cool weather, which usually
comes on in September, the screens may be
discarded entirely, as the fungus at this season
loses its activity. It remains alive, however
in the old leaves during the winter and following
spring. Conidia found in fragments of old
leaves late in the spring germinated readily when
sown in water. A knowledge of this fact shows
the importance of destroying the old diseased
leaves in the autumn, as each small fragment of
the latter harboi-s thousands of the reproductive
bodies of the fungus.— E. R.
How to Grow Strawberries In Dry
Gravel.
W. W. MUNSON. CORNELL rNn'ERSlTV. N. Y.
Lovers of this most luscious of fruits will
welcome every device for makinp; possible
its successful culture in difficult places. It
has been truly said, " A man who can grow
Corn, can, ;/ he will, grow Strawberries."
There are some soils, however, which will
not grow Corn successfully. On such soils
the following device, adopted by one of the
professors at Cornell l^niversity, will be
found valuable:
The gentleman alluded to, Professor Rob-
erts, had for years tried to raise Strawber-
ries in his garden, but failed every time.
The soil is a very loose gravel, and the long
summer droughts would kill the plants.
Finally, remembering that grass and weeds
are always green and vigorous by the side
of old rails or boards, he applied the princi-
ple to his Strawberry bed. After setting the
plants, a wide board was placed on each side
of the row, leaving a space of two or three
inches. The result was all that could be
desired. The plants grew vigorously and
bore abundantly; while for the spaces be-
tween the rows being covered, there was no
time required in keeping down the weeds.
The device is not patented, and is well
worth trial by those who are troubled by
the drying out of their soils.
an exudation of gum, generally at the
crown, or more rarely, at the sides Tn bad
examples they swell and soften, gum bursts
through the entire surface, and the bulbs at
length putrefy. The figure at the left shows
the external aspect of a slightly affected
bulb, while that at the right represents a
cross section. The gum torms a kind of
seal at the crown, through which the flower-
ing shoot, even if sound, cannot penetrate.
Sometimes Roman Hyacinths, imported
in an apparently sound and healthy con-
dition, deteriorate and perish by gumming
before the time of planting arrives. If the
unsound examples are planted they perish
in the ground, or if they are only slightly
affected they do not flower.
The gum is produced in the
heart and between the scales. On
a microscopical examination of
the soft thick gum it is found to
be thickly traversed by the my-
celium of the above mentioned
fungus, Penicillium crustaceum,
Fr. The gum when removed
from the bulbs and placed under
favorable conditions for growth
generally produces the fruiting
condition of this fungus from the
mycelium within. The Penicil-
lium, it is supposed, cannot set up
decay in perfectly sound sub-
stance, but it doubtlessly greatly
accelerates decay when it once
alights on any slightly bruised or
unhealthy surface.
It has been proved by experi-
ment, that gumming increases in
the bulbs as the fungus extends in growth-
It appears, then, probable that the Penicil-
lium spores are imported with and inside
the bulbs, and that it the bulbs receive any
slight bruises or other injuries, in packingor
transit, gumming is started. The gum,
with its contained growing fungus, by irri-
tation increases the gumming. The gum,
\yith its fungits, is probably capable of set-
ting up gumming in other bulbs by contact.
Every bulb, which shows the slightest
trace of gumming should be removed and
burnt, for it is probable that by the exuded
gum the disease is extended from one bulb
to another in collections.
Some Drouth-Time Observations.
" AMATECR." R(H-HE.STER, N. Y.
The occurence of drouth is so common in
our climate that any points we may gain in
preventing our gardens from suffering
greatly are of much importance.
Herbaceous borders and beds, being
usually filled with a great variety of sub-
jects, suffer from drought severely, partic-
ularly the shallow-rooting species and such
as root freely, like the Phlox, which is a
The Gumming of Hyacinth Bulbs.
The disease of Hyacinth bulbs popularly
termed " gumming " is due to the attack of
a fungus PeniciUiiiin cnistacfum. As
shown in the accompanying illustration, re-
engraved from cut appearing in an article
on this subject in the Gardeners' Chronicle
some time ago, the diseased bulbs exhibit
UTILIZING OLD HOES. See pOffe 231.
gross feeder, soon impoverishing the soil
near and sucking the moisture out of it like
a crop of Peas. I have found that the best
provision against drouth on these is to mulch
such borders with rotten leaf-mould early
in the season, which will keep the soil moist
without watering, if put on annually two
or three inches deep. Cool moisture-loving
subjects, like the herbaceous Sptra'as and
most -\lpine subjects, should be mulched by
themselves if the whole of the ground can-
1890.
POPULAR GARDENING.
269
not be covered. A good covering of several
inches of leaf-mould or short Grass will
often save the lives of tliese.
In some places Pansiesare most uncertain
if not mulched, and watering without that
seems only to work greater injury, causing
the soil to bake and crack in a few hours
afterwards, unless the watering pot is fol-
lowed immediately by the hoe, which is not
always convenient; mulching prevents this.
All flower beds suffer in dry seasons, and
especially bedding plants, whose roots are
always necessarily near the surface. The
evil is greatly increased by careless planting,
as if the roots are not let in deeply, a,s can
be done in the case of many things from
seed beds, the tops are sure to suffer from
even a few days' drought. Still, frequent
waterings should be avoided: a good soak-
ing once a fortnight is sufficient if the sur-
face of the soil is stirred the day following,
or mulched, but mulching is objected to on
flower-beds if not covered in some way, as
the birds are sure to scatter the litter all
over the ground.
Mulchings, even if thin, should be scat-
tered roughly over the soil among all garden
crops during drought, and there is hardly
anything so handy as short Grass, which,
being light and easily applied, may soon be
made to cover much ground, and it will re-
duce the necessity of watering at least .50 per
cent, so that there is no comparison between
the two as regards labor. Water should be
applied after, not before, the mulching is
put on.
Peach and Plum Growing at the
Extreme North.
As Mr. Henry Paffard, at Xiagara-on-the-
Lake, has demonstrated that Figs can be
grown in open air in that locality with
occasional spells of zero weather in winter,
so Peter M. Gideon of Minnesota is showing
us that Peaches can be successfully, and
perhaps profitably grown in a country
with an occasional winter temperature of
50 degrees below zero. Both parties accom-
plish the task by the same means, namely,
laying down the trees.
Mr. Paffard's way of handling his Fig
trees was described in an earlier number of
Popular Gardenixg. Mr. Gideon's plan
differs only in some of Its details. He pre-
fers small one year old trees with whole
roots, digs the hole of the proper size and
depth, a little deeper than for ordinary
planting, makes a cone of solid earth across
the middle of the hole, in line with the row
or in the direction the tree is to be laid
down; divides the roots into two equal parts
or as near as can be, each division as com-
pact as possible and saddles them over the
cone of dirt, then fills up and packs the
dirt as in other planting. In the fall when
he wishes to lay them down he digs on the
side to which he wants the tree to turn and
it lops over as if on a hinge. A little hay or
leaves are placed under to keep the small
branches off the naked ground, then he fills
in the dirt around the roots, over which he
puts leaves or some other litter, and over
that litter and the entire tree he puts about
six inches of hay or its equivalent in straw
or com stalks. In the spring the covering
and the dirt are removed, the tree lifted and
the dirt replaced around the roots. To avoid
mice, he used strychnine bait under cover of
the tree. To keep the bait dry he used two
pieces of boards, one on top of the other, on
that he put about a spoonful of dry Corn
meal, and over it the strychnine made as fine
as dust, and over all two boards, nailed
edges together to form a roof, and the trees
are safe.
A fruit grower of Woodstock, New Bruns-
wick, a Mr. Sharpe, is reported as entirely
successful in growing Plums. The accomp-
anying illustration, reproduced from Far-
mers' Advocate, explains his method: As
the trees are to be bent down to the ground
in the fall, t« be sheltered by the snow, they
have to be so planted as to admit of bending
without injury, and this can be done only
by directly training the roots in such direct-
ions as shall not interfere with it. The trees
are always bent soutwards, and the roots,
to allow of this, are directed to the east and
west— any large roots on the north and south
sides are removed. In the fall all that is
necessary to do is
to take a spadeful
or two of earth from
the south side and
gently bend the tree
down and fasten it
there. This may be
done by weighting
or, better still, by
means of a crotch
stick driven well
itself 'for a time, the moisture from the
earth passes off into the air. By stirring
the soil frequently, the pores are broken off
and a mulch is formed. The moisture in-
stead of passing off' into the atmosphere,
stops just at the stirred layer and goes to
the benefit of the plant. Soil will dry out
just as deep as it is stirred. This is why we
hoe deeply in wet weather.
Horse Cultivation. Like other field
crops, were it not for the horse, Strawberry
growing would be a drudgery indeed. I
think growers do not as a rule practice
economy in horse cultivation. We should
be more particular with the horse and cul-
tivator. The horse should be steady and
taught to walk straight, through the row. I
have used most kinds of cultivators, but
have discarded all for the Planet .Jr. It
seems ridiculous after running so close to
the rows as to peel the leaves off with the
wings of a Planet Jr. to glance over the
Laying dmtm Peach and Plum Trees at the North.
into the ground. A Plum orchard treated
in this manner, where, as in Mr. Sharpe's,
the trees are planted rather closely, has the
appearance of a brush pile in the fall. The
trees, laid almost flat upon the ground,
gather the snow and retain it, but from the
branches lying with their length paralled to
the ground they are not broken, and being
perfectly sheltered by the snow, their fruit
buds remain uninjured, and an abundant
crop is the result. And this fruitfulness is
not wholly due to the protection given to the
fruit buds by the sheltering snow, but in
part to the check that is given the wood
growth by the bending down and retaining
the trees in their recumbent position till
after blossoming. Instead of a vigorous
wood growth numerous fruit buds are pro-
duced; these, duly protected, are in turn
followed by the fruit.
The trees treated in this manner are, after
blos.soming, raised up and fastened to strong
stakes driven into the ground at their side.
When the trees become so large as to be
unmanagable they may be permanently
fastened down. Although only Plums have
been tried in this way, there is no reason to
suppose that Cherries and Pears may not be
grown under the same treatment.
Growing Strawberries for Market.
Third Paper.
L. J. FARMER, OSWEGO CO., N. Y.
Hoeing Strawberries. Not less than a
week after Strawberries are set, they should
be stirred with a rake or hoe, and the oper-
ation continued throughout the season as
often as possible. This early and frequent
stirring destroys the weeds that are sprout-
ing, and also breaks the crust formed by
the dews and rain. This crust, unless fre-
quently broken, prevents the runners root-
ing readily, and also the air from circula-
ting to the roots. The free access of air to
the roots is most important as is shown by
contrast between plants grown where the
soil is loose and porous, and when it is sub-
merged with water and packed down hard.
Plants won't thrive on the latter.
If heavy rains occur to pack down the
soil around the plants, it should be stirred
deeply. In no other way can the plants be
made to grow. As a rule Strawberries
should be hoed shallow In dry weather and
deeply in wet weather. When soil is left to
fence and see a neighbor cultivating the
centre of a row with one of those broad-
toothed cultivators that came over in the
Mayflower. Do his best, he will have over
a foot to stir up with the hoe, while with
the wings and fine teeth on a Planet Jr.,
the rows may be narrowed to four inches.
How TO Cultivate. In about a week
after plants are set, the cultivator is started.
We cultivate the centre of the row thor-
oughly, using the wide teeth. The wings
are now put on, arranging so as to cut
away from the row. We spread the culti-
vator about 2i< feet and use but one wing,
the left one. Going up we drive on the
right-side of the row, close up ; returning
on the left side. The wing is so arranged
as to scrape away the weeds and yet allow
the cultivator to be guided easily. The fine
teeth go easier and should be used when
the wings are on. After the wings have
performed their service, they should be
taken off and the fine teeth put on. Both
sides of the rows are now .stirred close up,
and the plants are ready for hoeing. The
advantages of using fine teeth are these—
you can run more closely to the row with-
out throwing dirt or stones on the plants,
and you can also stir the soil deeply around
the plants, thereby disturbing and possibly
destroying any worms or insects that may
be at work on the roots.
In hoeing Strawberries for the first time,
the weeds are cut out between and around
the plants and as much earth put around
the plants as is taken away. If a plant be
set too deeply or if heavy rains have caused
earth to settle over the crown, it should be
fingered out ; so the crown will be free. If
the plant be set too shallow, so that its
roots show, more earth should be drawn
around it. If the soil be hard, it shoiild be
stirred deeply and mellowed up. If any
blossom or berries remain on the plants
they should be removed as it ta.xes the
plants vitality. No runners will start till
quite late, and the plants will often suc-
cumb if allowed to fruit the first year.
Strawberries should be hoed and cultivated
as often as possible before the runners start
to grow. By frequent stirring, the weed
seeds are brought to the surface and then
they sprout and are destroyed. It is easier
to hoe four times before the runners start
than once afterwards.
270
POPULAR GARDENING.
September,
When the runners begin to grow, the first I
ones should be removed to give stockiness j
to the plants. If the first runner is left on, !
it will draw the life from the parent plant
so as to prevent its sending out other run-
ners. Whichever side of the row this run-
ner happens to strike root will be covered
with plants and the other side vacant ; and
thus a very uneven growth is secured. By
cutting oft the first runner or two. the plant
becomes larger and soon sends out several
large runners, all at once, which may be
layered on both sides and make an even
stand of plants. In hoeing Strawberries
after the runners start, if there be several
runners and only a few new plants rooted,
we turn all the runners over on one side,
while the other side is weeded and hoed.
The runners are now all turned to the side
that has been hoed while the other side is
treated the same. Earth should be drawn
around the plant to replace that which has
been scraped away with the hoe m removing
the fine weeds. One should be very care-
fvil that all the fine weeds be cut away, for
in dry weather they are sure to grow
through, if covered up. Strawberries may
be hoed after the runners have rooted t/oo
strongly to disturb, by the following
method : The ground is cultivated deeply
between the rows so as to give plenty of
loose soil. All the large weeds are pulled
out. The earth is now drawn up around
the plants, covering the small weeds and
runners. This not only retards the weeds, j
sometimes smothering them ; but also in-
sures the young runners rooting readily.
They will root and grow up through an
inch of soil. This covering of the runners
with soil is the safest and most rapid way
of securing a good growth of plants even
in dry weather. ^
In pulling large weeds around a Straw-
berry plant, the plant should be held down
with one hand, while the weed is pulled out
with the other. I,arge grass weeds may be
split in pulling and with less danger to the
Strawberry plant. I have great difficulty
in getting men to pull the weeds properly
around the plants, and also to layer the
runners as they should be set in, parallel
to the rows and those about to root, put in
place and held down with a stone or pressed
into the soil. A runner that has once rooted
will never root again, unless it is pressed
down with a stone or covered with soil.
The cultivator should be kept going con-
tinually ; at least once a week so long as
growth continues, to keep the soil mellow
and turn the runners that start across the
path. As the the runners spread, the culti-
vator should be narrowed up and run only
one way in the row.
SUMMEK Fertilization. There is noth-
ing that will pay the grower so well next to
thorough cultivation, as liberal manuring.
I think that Strawberries should be given
an application of some quick-acting fertili-
zer such as nitrate of soda, superphosphate
or guano soon after they are set out, to give
them a nice send-off. At this time, they are
very feeble and undecided whether to grow
or die. Plants never stand still. They
either grow or go back. The weather may
be too cold for growth, the soil either too
wet or too dry. Some tonic manure applied
just as they are to start growth, may ensure
their safety. The fertilizer may be scatter-
ed along the row and hoed in around the
plauts. The plants will need another dress-
ing of superphosphate soon as they begin
to run nicely. By this time the leaves will
be large, and whatever fertilizer lodges on
them, should be brushed off with a broom.
In applying commercial fertilizer it is safest
to apply a small quantity several times
rather than all at one time. If the ground
is weedy, it should be scattered on after hoe-
ing, for in cutting away the weeds, the fer-
tilizer will be drawn from the plants, where
it cannot benefit them. Otherwise put it
on before the plants are hoed. We put on
about 300 lbs. superphosphate to the acre
at one application. This is about 10 quarts
to 3.50 feet of row. The largest and finest
crops of Strawberries grown hereabout
were produced from rows that had been
treated to barn manure and super-phosphate
about September 1st. "The rains wash it
down to the roots, very little is lost and its i
value goes to forming the fruiting crowns
and new plants. If one has a manure
spreader it may be used here to advantage,
scattering the manure on to the rows, in
among the plants.
The warm soap suds on washing days are
always carried to our Melon and Cucumber
patches, and emptied near the hills. Can better
use be made of the valuable plant food they con-
tain?—«. R.
The Crape Myrtle Is a satisfactory plant for
lawn or garden, and flowers perfectly until cold
weather. But it should be stored during winter
where it is sate from freezing. Any cellar is a
good place for it.
Florida forGrapes. I find this agoing to be a
most glorious state for the Grape. I have year-
ling rtnes now that would take vines at the
north at least three or four years to equal them in
growth.— £. S. Oandy, Florida.
The Periwlnkle (Vinca minor) is one of the
few plants that will flourish in the shade of trees,
where no sod can be established. It is very
useful in cemeteries, to beautify graves with
its dark, glossy, green foliage.
Evaporated Fruit will tail us this year to some
extent. Evapcrating establishments might turn
their attention to vegetables. We see it stated
that a company in San Francisco is engaged in
drying and packing Potatoes, Turnips, Onions
Carrots and other vegetables. They are to be
packed in tin cases, and will keep indeflnitely.
A Fine Gooseberry. Mr.E.P.Powell forwards
to this oftice a branch of a new Gooseberry with
fruit. Ho writes that is a true cross of foreign
and native, the first he has ever seen or heard
ot.entircly tree from mildew, proUflc, fruit Inrge,
and of fine flavor, being tart rather than sweet
It looks somewhat like Houghtou.but is consider-
ably larger.
The mole, we should remember, lives exclus-
ively on insects, not on grains or roots. If this
quadruped tunneLs through the lawn, we may
be sure he is after the grubs that gnaw at the
roots of the grass. The question for you to de-
cide is only which is the least of the two evils;
the mole burrows, or grubs killing the grass.
Rural Improvement Ai5SoriATiONS Needed.
We had in this town tor 25 years a Rural Art As-
sociation, the object being monthly meetings to
discuss horticultural and kindred topics, and to
engage in planting our streets with judiciously
selected trees. The result was a vast amount of
practical work, and much education of the
public— B. P. P.
Savoy Cabbages. Even the Savoys which have
been crossed and increase'' in size and coarse-
ness, like the Drumheu. -avoy, are still far
superior to the ordinar "lat Dutch and Drum-
heads. And now we . , e a variety known as
the Netted Savoy, which combines fair size with
the higest quality. We never miss Cauliflowers
while we have good Netted Savoys.— W. F.
Massey in Garden and Forest.
Fire for Insects. A subscriber of Frankford,
Pa., suggests the plan of killing insects at whole-
sale by piling up heaps of brush, weeds and Tuh-
bish of all sorts, and burn them off on warm,
still evenings, to attract night-flying insects to
their death. He has seen as many dead insects
as would fill a quart measure nightly taken from
the globe of one electric Ugbt.
Camphor Tree. This tree, Camphoi- officinalis
furnishes the camphor of commerce, which is
produced from the wood by boihng the chopped
branches in water. The cami>hor becomes de-
posited, and is purified. It is then brought into
a state of vapor by heat, and again condensed
as a solid. The leaves are bright, shining green,
and resemble the Laurus. This beautiful and
useful tree grows remarkably well in most parts
of California.— Cal. Florist and Garden.
Plant in the Fall. The culture of the choice
Tulips, Hyacinths, Crocuses and other Dutch
bulbs would be vastly more common could they
be grown by planting in the spring garden-mak-
ing time. It seems unseasonable to most people
to plant in the fall. Still in this case it must be
done if we would enjoy a class of flowers
which contains some of the handsomest, sweetest
and most satisfactory blooms of the entire floral
realm. The earlier the buds are planted after
September 1 st, the better.
Dutchman's Pipe and Laburnum.- Whether
by accident or design I cannot say, but a novel
and beautiful combination I recently saw was
formed by a strong plant of Aristolochia Sipho
clambering through and over a common Labur-
num. Its handsome broad leaves contrasted
well with those of the Laburnum, and the ef-
fect was simply perfect, as there was just enough
of the one to contrast with the other. The
Laburnum appeared to be giving support
without hurt to itself, but in a year or two the
encircling folds of the Aristolochia may destroy
it. Even then to have this beautiful climber
growing so naturally and free would be a dis-
tinct gain.— London Garden.
Antiscoptic Value of EuCALVPTUS.~In soak-
ing up (lid wine or vinegar casks.we throw a few
Blue-gum boughs with their leaves into the
water, and it uever becomes putrid, while with-
out the Blue-gum we would have to change the
water daily to prevent putridity and spoiling of
the flavor of anything afterward kept in the
cask. A decoction of green leaves is a stronger
and more lasting stimulant than tea or cofl'ee,
and more salutary in its efi'ects, as it does not
cause wakefulness. It seems to have the stimu-
lating effect of quinine without any of its in-
jurious qualities.— Selma Irrigator.
END OF
VOL. V.
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