SF 545
.G2t
crv’ PPACTICAL IMETHOD
—)FOR THE(—
CULTIVATION OF
MULBERRY TREES,
RAISING OF
SILK WORMS, COCOONS, Ete.
BY
’ CARERA, HUBER & CO.
PEN YO IS CEST:
A. CARIGLIANO, PRINTER, PUBLISHER & TRANSLATOR.
280 MOTT STREET.
PRACTICAL VLETHGie
—)FOR THE(—
CULTIVATION OF
MULBERRY TERERs:
RAISING OF
SILK WORMS, COCOONS, Ete.
BY,
CARERA, HUBER & CO.
NEW YORK,
A. CARIGLIANO, PRINTER, PUBLISHER & TRANSLATOR.
280 MOTT STREET.
(
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Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1803 by
Carera, Huber & Co., in the Office of the Librarian of Congress
in Washington.
PREFACE.
As many of our patrons have addressed letters to us,
asking for information and advice, in regard to the culture
of the mulberry tree and the care of the silk-worm, and
knowing full well the impossibility of answering all parties
concerned individually, we have decided to compile the
present pamphlet, wherein all the necessary information
may be obtained.
And by so doing we flatter ourselves, that we will thus
become useful to our patrons, in promoting the increase of
this newly -started industry in this country, which we are
assured, will, ina very short time, develop considerably,
owing principally to climate, soil, and the intelligence and
industry of the American people,
New York, Dec. 1883. THE AUTHORS,
CARERA HUBER & CO.
152 Wooster Street.
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MULBERRY TREE CULTURE.
Its origin.
The mulberry tree (morus) was discovered as an indig-
enous plant, in Bengal, India, and in the Chinese Empire.
The importation of the black mulberry (morus nigra) into
Europe is lost in the records of history; that of the white
mulberry (morus alba) is of a-more recent date — between
the years 350 and 4oo of the Christian Era,
The mulberry tree requires a climate similar to that
of a vine, and will perish at a temperature below 10
degrees. This tree is not suited to that climate, where,
afver its leaves are gathered in spring, the mean temperature:
is not, for three months at least 50. At 65 degrees the
leaves fully develop. In order thatthe tree may produce:
the requisite quantity of leaves, it is necessary that, from
the time in which it begins to~bud to that in which. the
temperature, after the heat of summer is lowered to 70
degrees, may receive at least 15,000 degrees cf heat. Every
branch we may imagine to be divided into three parts, viz.
the interior, or hard wood, which feels entirely the heat of sum-
mer; the middle, or green wood, which grows during the last
heat of summer, and the beginning of autumn; and the supe-
rior part, or bark. Hence, ina temperate climate, during
the blastsand colds of winter, only the bark, orthe tip of
the branch, will be affected.
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How to select a Mulberry Tree
In the manner of selecting mulberry trees, we do not
choose those plants which are too big neither do we choose
very large leaves, but those trees that grow gradual and
regular, thus guaranteeing their tenacity and durability —a
tree pleasing to the eyes, and profitable to the purse of the
growers. We have also in view, inour selection of plants,
to chaose those best adapted to the different localities.
There are a great varieties of mulberry trees; but the
grower must select those whose leaves are larger and most
consistent; by thus doing accruing larger profits to himself
by raising a better quality, and a larger quantity of cocoons.
The principal species of mulberry trees are the black and
white. s
The black mulberry tree (morus nigra) was imported
into Italy and Spain, from Greece and Sicily. Its fruit is
black and sweet, and was eaten by people long before it was
thought of using its leaves as food for the silk- worm. Its
organization being robust, its bark thick and woody, its fibres
_ close, its vegetation less precocious, all seem to be in_har-
mony witha late spring in a cold climate, and clearly
indicate, that, thougn the tree is an indigenous of warm
climates, it can alsO thrive in colder ones. The silk - worm
feeds well on its leaves, though the silk produced is not of a
fire quality.
The white mulberry tree (morus alba) is of more recent
importation, as previously stated, and is only suitable for
warm climates, The silk-worm that feeds on its leaves
produces a better quality of silk, By ingrafting the two
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species anew plant is reproduced suitable for any clime.
There is also another kind of mulberry tree, that of
the Philippine Islands called “‘morus cuculata or multicaule,”’
on account of the many shoots that spring up from the base
of the trunk. It was discovered by Perrotet and Matrilla,
in. those islands and introduced in Europe in 1821, first in
France, and afterwads in Italy. Its leaves are very large
and easily torn by the wind. In structure is less consistent
than the other two species, and its roots are easly preyed
upon by squirrels. Itis propagated by seed or ingrafting.
The leaves being formed early in the season, the feeding of
the silk-worms will become earlier.
The principal varieties obtained by the seed of the white
mulberry tree are the following: the ‘‘Spagno-Reman,
that of Tuscany, the Morettiano, rosea, Male Piramidales
and ibridis.”
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Propagation of the Mulberry Tree.
The propagation of the mulberry tree ts ordinarily
accomplished by its seed. The plant must be vigorous and
the seed gathered from branches two years old. But, as the
mulberry is not a plant that bears hermophrodite flowers,
but only the male and female, separated from each other,
and often the female abounding, care should be taken, that
on the same, or a neighboring plant, be found male flowers,
otherwise the seed will not produce fruit.
The gathering of the fruits should be accomplished
by shaking the tree, so as to collect only the ripe ones. The
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fruits are placed in a receptacle containing water, and
are there mashed, to Separate the seed from the pulp. The
good seed being heavier, will fall to the bottom of the
receptacle, and the bad ones will float. The wateris then
poured off leaving the good seed at the bottom. And in this
manner of manipulation, only the good seeds will remain.
They are then dried in an airy and shady place.
To keep the seeds until spring, put them in dry sand,
and keep ina place free from dampness and airy. The seed
that is kept over a year will lose its strength. The best
time to sow the seed is in June, but care should be taken to
keep the seed always shaded from the rays of the sun. For
this purpose straw or dryleaves are strewn on the earth
over them.
The soil selected should be well worked and freed
from weeds ana small stones. More than manure a soft soil
is needed. Divide your field into squares and in these
squares Gig four furrows, one foot apart, and about, 1% inch
(0,03 centm.) deep.
The seed should be put in the soil by scattering.
Between the furrows another one is to be kept open, about
one foot (0, 25 centm.) wide, for the workman to pass, and to
allow the plant more scope to grow,
During the growth of the plant the soil should be kept
constantly free from weeds and well-raked,—to keep ~ the
ground open, and this must be done until the plant has at-
tained a height of about 8 inches (20 cent.)
After the shoots have sprung up, the proper distance of
one from the other should be % foot (10 centimtr.) All the
others should be uprooted and planted at that distance.
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Planting.
The soil best adapted for the mulberry tree must be
ofa calcareous and argillaceous nature, dry and deep, and
not altogether devoid of organic matter.
Before the planting of the shoots, the soil should be
worked to the depth of at least 2 feet, and it must be done
before the winter sets in, soas to allow the earth to acquire
the strength necessary for vegetation.
In opening the furrows, the superficial strata should be
kept apart from the lower one, and freed from all small
stones and rubbish. The-best time to open the furrows 1s in
August.
Before planting the young shoots, care should be taken
that all decayed portions of their roots be carefully trim-
med. The trunk should be cut about half a foot from the
ground, to give vigor to the roots,
In setting out the shoots, keep the roots free and spread
them out well; next take a small thin piece of wood, about
the height of the shoot, to be used as a means or support, and
grasping them both with the left hand, fill in evenly the
earth about the roots with the right,
The superficial earth should be placed upon the surface,
leaving about the plant a small circular cavity sufficient to
retain water to assist the vegetation.
Always bear in mind the fact, that the roots should not
be buried too deep in the earth.
The first thing to be done after pianting the shoots is
to prune them at the height of 4 inches (rocentm.) from the
ground, placing the cut-off portion of the shoot alongside
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the plant, so as to mark the spot. Next is to free the shoots
with the hands or with a sharp instrument, of all buds, after
the third week of their vegetation with the exception of the
best and more vigorous one, which is generally found near
the ground. Of this latter, the utmost care should be taken.
In establishing a nursery the shoots are to be placed
four feet (one meter) apart; but planting them for good the
distance from trunk to trunk should be at least 16 to 24 feet
(8 meters.)
When the shoots reaches to the height ofone or two feet,
buds spring forth from along its trunk. These should be
let alone, as they are essential to the development of the
roots.
No matter how good the soil may be, it is extremely
difficult that the shoots reach in one year to the desirable
height — not less than six and no more than eight feet. In
that case pruning is necessary using all care, and exercising
all attention to the young plant.
But if they develop well, leave them alone; only keep the
soil free from weeds and rake it two or three times a year.
If however, after a second pruning, the shoots do not de-
velop as they should, the tree will be of an inferior quality.
When the shoots have arrived to the height of six or
eight feet—which is generally in their second year—proceed
to the formation of their branches. Only when the trunk
of the shoots has acquired a circumference of from 42 to 6
inches it is fit to be transplanted from the nursery, the holes
for this purpose should be four feet deep by four feet wide
and at least 16 to 24 feet distant from each other.
In spring the vertical branch must be cut. Only four
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or five well developed buds are kept on which the ingrafting
is to be done on the following spring. Once the top (head)
of the shoot being well formed, no further care need be taken
of it, except in pruning the superfluous branches.
If the wild mulberry produces large and good leaves,
no ingrafting should be made.
The number of buds to be left on the shoot must De
limited to the number of branches required.
Ingrafting.
If perchance the mulberry plant possesses large and
abundant leaves, and shows a well-developed growth, no
ingrafting should take place, because instead of improving,
it would deteriorate the species.
To ingraft at the foot of the shoot is not advantageous
in coldclimates. In temperate climates it is most convenient
in those parts exposed to the rays of the sun, and pro-
tected from the winds of the north; and the variety which is
ingrafted must not be of the primitive white mulberry. In
cold climates it is essentially necessary; for the branches of
the wild mulberry make a better resistance to the colds of
winter, and, it often happens, that if the ingrafted portion
belongs to the white species, and the ingrafting is done at
the foot of the tree, the tree itself will perish, while if done
on the branches, even if bad, can always be made anew.
The most favorable time for ingrafting is, without
doubt, in the spring, and a good season must be selected,
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that will promise many days of favorable weather. The
month of May, and the beginning of June are the two
months favorable for ingrafting mulberry trees. The ing-
rafting by bandages is preferrable to all other systems.
But ingrafting by sprigs can be performed indifferently
either on small or large branches.
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The care of Grafted Trees.
Until we are perfectly assured of the good success of
the ingrafting at the foot of the tree in this cold American
climate, it is necessary, to facilitate the development, to set
the tree in a place well-protected—near a wall for instance,
if possible—and exposed to the south, south-east, or south-
west, and in a soil well- manured and well - worked.
These trees will begin to vegetate at the foot. Only
the best sprig should be kept, the others destroyed; also,
the old trunk, above the sprig, should be cut off.
The mulberry trees which are transplanted in autumn
should be buried first ina ditch; not in bundles, but disposed
one by one, in a position a little inclined — oblique — and
left there until the propitious season to plant again arrives.
This earth-bath, given to the young plant, will impart
to it vigor and new life. It must be borne in mind, however,
that very little of the shoot should be left above ground.
The best ingrafting is obtained from the following
species:
The low mulberry, “ceppaia’’ (block -like;) “spalliera”
(Espalier;) and ‘castello” (castle - like.)
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The branches cut in winter, and placed in dry sand, in
a cellar, are good for ingrafting wild mulberrys,
The pruning must be done in accordance with the age
of the tree, its vigor, the nature of the so‘l and climate. No
leaves should be gathered until after the sixth year of its
growth; forif before that time, only 28 or 30 lbs. (14 or 15 ki-
logr.) of leaves will be gathered, while if not githered during
these six years the tree will yield more than 40 lbs. (20 kilogr.)
of leaves.
In sandy soil the ramification should be kept rather
short. The pruning must be accomphshed every two or
three years, and never in summer.
The mulberry tree is endowed with long life, even in
cold climates. In its wild state it reaches the age of 300
and more years, but when ingrafted it does not live so
long— less than Ioo years.
The reasons for this are the following:
ist. By ingrafting, the branches being more porous
and less strong, are more lable to suffer by the inclemency
of the weather and other causes.
2nd. By gathering the leaves every year, thus leav-
ing the plant for ten or twelve days without respiratory
organs, and the roots must necessarily suffer.
3rd. By badly executed pruning. ‘To avoid this, it is
always to be done longitudinally on the trunk of the tree,
and on that side more exposed to the sun. Care should
also be taken to remove the sap, which is not absorbed by
the branches or leaves.
4th. By not working the ground properly, using the
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plow or spade carelessly, cutting off the superficial roots of
the plant, which are essential to its well-being.
5th. By sowing near the mulberry tree any plant
that spreads its roots too wide, thus extracting the greater
portion of the tree’s nutriment.
6th. If the soil is not deep enough, and devoid of the
qualities essential to the growth of the mulberry tree.
7th. The frosts in spring, the droughts in summer, and
the excessive colds of winter, preceded by downpourings,
and followed by a sudden rise in temperature, ail combine
to impede the growth and deteriorate the quality of the
mulberry.
8th. And lastly, all that can affect a plant, as insects,
squirrels, and many other small animals that feed on
roots.
The quality and quantity of the crop varies according to
climate, the age of the tree, the soil, manner of pruning, etc.,
and will, most always, be affected by some of the above
mentioned causes.
The leaves of the wild mulberry are better food, in the
beginning, for the silk-worms, being more dry. When
the mulberry reachesa certain age, it must be shorn of many
of its branches, to maintain equilibrium between branches and
roots, and the plantin consequence will produce less leaves.
Manure.
Which will be the best manure for the mulberrys? As
chemical analysis has shown us which is the best adapted
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soil for planting, so it will also guide us in selecting the best
manure.
According to the analysis of the mineral mattercontain-
ed in the leaves and trunk of the mulberry, itis found that
the trunk contains more lime, while the leaves more potash,
phosphoric and azoticacids. So that the best manure for
this plant is that which furnishes lime, potash, phosphoric
acid, and is not devoid of azctic substances, to develop the
leaves.
The best manure for young trees is from the decom-
position of vegetable matter.
And if this decomposition could take place in the ditch
where the shoot is to be planted so much the better, Decayed
limbs of fruit - bearing trees or any vegetable matter placed
in the ditch increase the strength of the shoot.
The effect of manure on the plant, being by emanation
or absorption, the more the emanation or absorption, the
better will be the result. Itis for this reason, that the
mulberry, planted where manure is kept, thrives most
vigorously, for there the organic and inorganic principles
essential to its development are found.
PRODUCTION OF THE MULBERRY TREE PROVIDED THE
LEAVES ARE NOT GATHERED BEFORE THE SIXTH YEAR.
AGE. PRODUCT IN LEAVES.
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Brief Method for Silk-Worm Culture.
PRELIMINARY REMARK ABOUT SILK-
WORMS AND COCOONS.
The silk-worms belong to the numerous family of the
“Bruchi,” Their existence is classed into three periods ;
larva chrysalis, and butterfly. However they are not
perfect insects, and are incapable of reproducing their own
species, except in their last period of existence, and feed
only in the first.
During the first period, they change their skin fre-
quently. In the other their skin changes only when passing
from the chrysalis to the butterfly state.
It seems Nature has placed animated beings _ there,
where food for their existence is abundantly provided. So
the silk-worm is found to be indigenous to Bengal and
the Chinese Empire, as is also the mulberry tree, on whose
branches it was first discovered,
The silk - worm belongs to the “Genus Bombyx”, and
to the species of the mulberry, as its name in natural his-
tory, “Bombyx Mori,” implies.
At present. great varieties of silk-worms are known;
some by the changing of their skin, during their first period
of existence, and are called “mute; some by hatching their
eggs once, or several times, during the year, and are called
“Bivoltini, Trivoltini, and Polivoltini,” and some by the
volume and color of the cocoons.
These varieties and species of silk-worms are known,
and cultivated in Europe.
Se
The most diffused, and the most cultivated in Italy is
that called the “Quattro Mute,” or Four Changes, whose
eggs are not capable of development except once a year, and
whose cocoons are yellow, white, and green and of other
colors blending with all the above.
The life of these insects is divided into five epochs,
which are called ages. ‘The first four ages are read-
ily discerned by the insect changing its skin. During the
fifth age the insect begins the spinning of the cocoon.
The silk is derived from the cocoons, which are composed
of very slender threads, varying in length from 1,400 to
1,600 feet (400 to 500 metres.)
The other two stages of life include only two periods.
Vhe first, that of the chrysalis, the second, that of the but-
terfly; and this last period continues until the two sexes meet
to reproduce their own species, by depositing their eggs.
In the stage of larva, the silk-worm breathes by 18
little tubes, or tracheas (wind pipes,) which communicate
with the exterior air, by as many little holes evenly
divided on each side of its body near the feet.
The insect, larva, does not possess sexual organs.
Once the larva begins to feed, it remains immovable,
until the moment arrives for the spinning of the cocoon.
In the state of chrysalis it is apparently dead. Shut up in
a cartilaginous vagina, within the cocoon, it possesses no
other movement but a lateral one, at the lower end of the
body, which shows the only sign of life.
As a butterfly it possesses a respiratory organic system.
Only one trachea, eyes, sexual organs; and the female, ovaries.
The male is possessed of an amorous disposition toward
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propagating the species, cohabiting for four days, if dis-
turbed, he immediately seeks another female whom he ap-
proaches with pristine impetus.
The female is more home-like and modest though not
less transported toward the propagating of its species. She
lays between 300 and 400 eggs.
Theoretical and Practical Principles
for the Culture of Silk-Worms
Nature is the best teacher. Hence, by following the
teachings of Nature in the culture of the silk-worm the
best results will be attained.
The cultivator should keep his silk- worms in an airy
place, which must also be kept clean; taking away the old
ieaves, and providing the worms abundantly with new ones,
fresh and good. The principal thing the cultivator should
do, is to supply himself with an abundant stock of eggs,
which must be laid by butterflies, and pronounced good after
amicroscopical examination,
Preservation of Eggs.
The eggs are to be kept in a room well-aired, and dry,
and exposed, if possible, to the north. The temperature
in winter must not be above 7 or 8 degrees Reaumur (about
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40 Fahr.) Frost is more cong enial to the eggs, than otherwise:
But the changes of temperature are to be feared, especially
from the beginning of February
Incubation.
About the time when the mulberry tree begins to bud
the eggs acquire a temperature of 1o to ir degrees Reau-
mur, (about 53 Fahr.) and incubation soon takes place when
the temperature is increased to 12 or 13 degrees, about 55
Fahr. upwards, to 18 degrees Reaumur [about 65 Fahr. ]
This temperature is to be kept constant and the air
should be a little moist, to produce the opening of the
eggs. It is most important to avoid a lowering of temperat-
ure, during incubation, if a good quality of silk - worms is
to be desired.
———9° @ «@—_ —.
Nursing.
mst. Age. As soon as the little silk- worms are
born, they are to be gathered on a fresh, tender leaf of the
mulberry, and thus placed on clean sheets of paper, obser-
ving that the silk-worms obtained from ro grams of weightin
eggs, when they reach at the end of this age, they must
cover a superficial area of 9 square feet. They are to be
kept as much as possible, to a temperature of 17 or 18
degrees Reaumur, (about 75 Fh.) and fed with well - chopped
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up leaves every two or three hours; that is, nine or twelve
times in every 24 hours.
The day previous to the first change, that is, when the
worm’s head begins to enlarge, all the refuse leaves should
be removed, and a very light feeding given toe the worms.
Even when they are sick, keeping them to the same _ hours,
as previously stated, in feeding, to prevent the suffering by
hunger for those that have not reached such an advanced
stage. But when many have reached this stage, then a
suspension in the manner of feeding is necessary, to equalize
their quality and growth; and in this way we must also act
during the three other changes of skin.
Observing that as soon as the worm shows signs of
life, from the state of torpor in which it lies, it can be kept
without food for 24 hours or longer, without any inconve-
nience.
This first age lasts six days, and, during this interval
they consume about 7 pounds (3 kilogs.) of leaves. :
2nd. Age. During this age they may be fed once
upon the same bed on which they slept upon in the first
age, and then transported by means of mulberry sprigs,
to another place, where new, clean sheets of paper are
spread; and, at the end of the age, must occupy a space
of 18 square feet (2 metres square. )
The temperature, feeding, and treatment, must be
exactly the same as in the first age. The second
age lasts four days, the worms consume about 15 pounds
(7 kilogr.) of leaves.
3d. Age. During this age, which will last five
days, the same treatment above stated must be followed,
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with this exception only: to place the worms upon a new or
larger bed, so as to occupy a space 27 feet square (3 metres
square-) They will consume now about 42 pounds (20 kil.)
of leaves.
4th. Age. By following these rules carefully, the
worms, 15 days from the time of their birth, will enter their
fourth period. They must-now occupy a space of about
65 square feet [7 metres sq.] ‘They will reach this age in
7 days. The worms being now more vigorous, and_ better
developed, the leaves may be given whole, and not chopped;
and the feeding can be reduced to 6 times in every 24
hours. If the temperature should increase more than 17
degrees Reaumur, (about 75 Fahr.) windows and doors
should be opened. If it should fall below 16 degrees
Reaumur (about 65 Fahr.) a fire should be made. But good
ventilation, and the same temperature should always be
maintained. ‘The worms will consume during this age,
132 pounds (60 kilogr.) of leaves.
5th. Age. From the state of torpor in the fourth
age, the worms awake to the fifth. They must now be
distributed over a space double that of the fourth age
about 140 sq. ft. (15 metres sq.) During the eighth or ninth
day at most, first, some few, and finally all, will begin to
spin their cocoons, and crawl about on the dry stems of the
leaves, Which must be previously placed, broom-like, al]
along the feeding ground.
In this age they must be kept scrupulously clean,
and, every day, their bed should be changed. ‘The worms,
in this last age, are excessively voracious: and for this
reason plenty of leaves must be supplied to them. And if
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the feeding be not very frequent, it must be abundant.
The leaves must be placed at least three inches deep.
especially during the last three days previous to their de-
parture for the grove.
In very warm weather, on sultry days, during storms
and heavy rains, more ventilation is necessary, because
both heavy and bad air is death to the worm. They con-
sume during this age about 660 pounds (300 kilogr.) of
leaves.
- During the entire period of nursing, with eggs weighing
only ten grams, worms will be produced consuming about
958 pounds (390 kilogr.) of leaves, and spinning cocoons
weighing complexively about 55 pounds (25 kilogr.)
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The Grove.
The silk-worms, nursed as previously stated, in 30 days
from brith, will betake themselves to the grove. The grove
is to be made up of branches of different species of shrubs.
They must be perfectly clear from insects, clean, and dry.
They are placed all along the tables on which the worms are
kept, some even resting on the tables, branches downward
so that the worms may crawl up easily.
The cultivator must now select those worms that are
ripe, handling them lightly and with despatch. In_ this
condition they are transparent, inclined to wiggle, keeping
their heads constantly moving about, and looking for a
support. This is to be done to help them. and to place
them, if necessary on the branches; and for three days, the
greatest care must be taken, as previously stated; for, during
these days the worm will begin spinning.
TD ©
Management of the Cocoonery after
the Cocoons are spun.
The windows and doors must be kept open day and
night. After four days the worm will be enclosed in the
cocoon, its transformation into chrysalis complete, and
eight days after the cocoons can be collected, 420 of the
latter if yellow in color and of good Milanese quality, will
weigh about 2'% pounds [1 kilogr.]
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Confection of the Silk-Worm Eggs.
When the cocoons are gathered from the grove, arti-
‘cially built in the Cocoonery, select and keep for seed
those that are harder more regular in shape, of an even color,
and transparent as much as possible. Remove all the super-
fluous coating, or froth like substance, to facilitate the egress
of the butterfly from the cocoon.
In selecting the cocoons as seed, care should be had_ to
choose always by pairs-male and female—which are easily
distiguished by their shape. The male is enclosed in cocoons
that are smaller more pointed at the extremities, and de-
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pressed at the sides. Those of the female are more rounded,
fuller, and with less depression.
The butterflies make their exit from the’cocoons on the
17th or 18th day after their introduction into the grove.
Vhe birth of the butterfly takes place between the hours
of 4and9 A. M.
The males, whose bodies are pointed and small, will flap
their wings with violence: the females have a larger and
longer body, and are not so active.
When the butterflies cohabit together, they should be
placed upon another shelf and after six hours are separated
by taking them by the wings and pulling them gently apart
in Opposite directions.
Then the female is placed alone on a piece of cotton
fabric, and in 4o or 50 hours she will lay the eggs.
Suffocation of the Crysalis.
Any oven whatsOever can be used to suffocate the crys-
alis provided it be hot.
The cocoons are placed in the oven in baskets when the
temperature is from 200 to 240 degrees and suspended from
the floor of the oven at the height of at least 1 centimetre.
The cocoons are to be kept in the oven one hour at a tem-
perature of 240 to 260 degrees of heat. After the lapse of 45
minutes, take from the midst cf the basket some cocoons, cut
them open, and ascertain about the complete suffocation of
the crysalis,
eT
Before taking the basket of cocoons out, let the door of
the oven open for about 12 or 15 minutes to prevent any
dampness. :
— —! ope eo
Cocoonery.
Any room can be used for such a purpose, provided
it be above ground, free from dampness, kept warm, and at
least 100 sq. ft. (12 meters sq.) in dimension. There must be
three windows to the east, south, and west, communicating
to the door of the room, thus producing a good ventilation.
In this room, of whatever dimension it may be, a
suitable stove is kept. ‘The windows must be, as much as
possible opposite to one another, and never towards the
north.
The floor and ceiling of the room must be in perfect
order, so that neither the air without can penetrate nor the
heat within escape.
When the room has a dimension of from roo to 180 sq.
ft. (72 to 20 meters) it is necessary to have artificial ventil-
ation, by means of a fan. When it has a dimension of 180
or more square feet (20 meters sq.) or upwards, what follows
must be observed:
1. That the room have windows on two opposite sides.
2. That the windows be at least 12 feet (3 meters)
3. That the height of the windows be between 5 and
Og es
8 ft. (1, 50 meters or 2 meters) not taking into account
their width.
4. That all along the ceilingand in the middle of
the room be ventilators, that may be shut and opened at
pleasure. »
5. That there be in some part of the room a con-
trivance, to remove immediately the beds on which the
silk-worms rested.
6. That all windows be towards the east or west, or
towards the south-east or south-west.
7. Besides the outer door there should be an inner one
to prevent a current of air or draft, which would be injurious
to the silk-worms nearest it.
8. The window should have no clear glass, if there are
no blinds.
g. And, if there are no blinds, paper, dipped tn linseed
oil, mixed with resin, is pasted on the window sash,
answering the purpose, being transparent and strong enough
to resist rain and wind.
10. Every window should have a green curtain, to keep
off the rays of the sun.
11. That there be a ventilator to change the air.
12. For every 200 to 250 square feet (24 or 28 meters
sq.) of the room, a stove must be kept, with sufficient capacity
to warm it. The height of the room should never be more
than about 16 feet [4 meters. ]
13. . Finally, the. room. must. be compact, ‘so: that
it may soon be warmed, and kept so, with the most econo-
mical consumption of coal and wood. At the distance
ima | eee
of every 120 square feet [14 meterssq.] a thermometer must
be suspended upon the wall distant from stoves, 12 feet (3
meters,) and 4% feet [1, 05 meters,] from the floor.
The tables or shelves upon which the worms are nurs-
ed, may be of any wood whatever, provided they be white
and smooth. They must be stationary, and made of thin
wood for economy’s sake.
Thy may be of any dimension, and the racks large
enough to hold the worms of one ounce of eggs in weight,
and are disposed in shelf-fashion for convenience. The
distance between one shelf and the other must be about two
feet (40 cent.) and must be perfectly steady.
Bx, (yer.
PRICE LIST.
Lombardian Mulberry Trees.
ditecesetmto2-fectehigh per 1002.) 22 ee $ 5,00.
DE dg alae BS SE Spe alias a che ae a 38,00:
mesh A : wee Res 2 SAG eee * 14,00
ge a 3 re ap TMNETER? ol Oe ae “ 20,00.
emer oh 0 Z eat wrth. Sindy heed Poke wm! 5. 12 ** 30,00.
eaeiovears. Old platted. ° #20 SF. 4 ee eee ** 50,00.
Bev Or bo. MIN OTAMEG 3° Sote. Rye eke “* 80,00.
fae SO ie ACT: COD 7 ee 2 eee ee eee “tI 2100c
A LIBERAL DISCOUNT ON ORDERS OF 1000 OR MORE.
These trees are endowed with a very strong organiza-
tion, which enables them to grow in cold countries. The
leaves are hardy and pulpy, so that the worms fed by them
will produce large and heavy cocoons.
Seek Be eee Ee
Silk-Worm Eggs.
BREEDING OF 188
Silk worm eggs, confectioned by the cellular system,
and examined by a physiological and microscopical selec-
tion; free from disease, proceeding from a successful breed-
ing of the previous year, in either white, yellow or green
cocoons, $5,00 per ounce of 25 grams.
Our agency will provide also Machinery for reeling
cocoons.
All orders and informations promptly attended to.
Package and Freight from New York to destination to
be paid by the consignee.
Orders must be accompained by cash (postal card or
check or registered letter) and are guaranteed to be filled
as soon as goods arrive in New York.
CARERA, HUBER & CO.
152 Wooster St., NEw York.
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PAGE,
Preface, A, Signs ae tee Spas
Mulberry Tree’s origin seer ee ae eae rs
How to select a Mulberry Tree Goss Re 0)
Propagation of the Mulberry Tree ---. ere eee 7/
Planting of ee Sta as as oO)
Ingrafting Sse eae a op 2S
Gareror Graited, irees’ oe =o .. se Spee oS Seek?
Manure Da ae Ae Ba epg i
Production of the Mulberry Tree. _-- beet oa
Remark about Silk-Worms and Cocoons — ___- Beagrie)
Practical principles for the Culture of Silk-Worms __-_ 18
Preservation of Eggs ae ee he STs,
Incubation aE: Epee mae De secs 6°)
Nursing eo eee uh tie 26.2 ye Se OED
The Grove eee Pan ae Sas See 22
Management of the Cocoonery after the Cocoons arespun 23
Confection of the Silk-Worm Eggs Seah eee So)
Suffocation of the Crysalis acy =o) a2 a
Cocoonery oes Ree Ste 22 25
Price List is Eencae bo aa 4 ce ee
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