Prof. C. L. Edwards' Progressive, illustrated horsemanship

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PRoF. C. L. EDWARDS

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PROGRESSIVE

—-ON THE—

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—AND—

PRACTICAL MANAGEMENT OF HORSES

ORIGINATOR OF TRAINING AROUND CENTER POST, DRIVING BY
MOTION OF THE HAND, SNAP OF THE FINGER, AND MANY
ALD OTHER TRICKS NEVER BEFORE PUBLISHED,

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TO WHICH IS ADDED A TREATISE ON THE MANAGEMENT OF CATTLE.
AND Dogs, A FEW VALUABLE RECIPES, WITH NEARLY 100
ILLUSTRATIONS, A CHAPTER ON THE DIAGNOSIS.
LAMENESS OF HORSES, RULES AND REGULA- “ah

TIONS OF THE NATIONAL TROTTING cor Ray, 7% sy :
ASSOCIATION. { MAR 2 1892,
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Real 5 es be S$ all v

Tnventor -- of -- Edwards’ -- Patent -- Controlling = Bridle = Bit

AND -: SMOTHERING -:- NOSE -:- PIECE.

| Copyrighted— Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1899, by C. L. Hdwards.}

NOTICE.

Those wishing a copy of this Book, can get it by sending me $2.00.
I will send my Birr for $2.00. The Bit and Book together, $3.00.
The PATENT SMOTHERING NOsE PIKCE, .$2.00.. Brit, Book and NOsE
Pincs, $5.00. When half a dozen ur more are ordered at the same
time, a liberal reduction will be made.

(@s~ Address

C. L. EDWARDS,

NEWARK, WAYNE Co.,

NEW YORE.

o our + wisdom in nae buying sire: for others, bat will confer + .

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peer. and a benefit pues the one to whom your are
Tell those .

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THE author of this work, having had experience in handling some _
of the most vicious horses in this country, and three years’ experience __
in handling mustangs in Texas and Mexico, and having met with entire _
suceess, humbly offers this work to all lovers of this most noble animal, __
so that all those who favor him with their patronage may have thisin ~

printed form for future reference, and may, I hope, be benefited
thereby. !

In treating upon this theory, I am well aware of the disadvantages
under which I labor, and perfectly conscious of -the prejudice I may
excite in men, who, having handled horses for some time and having
ways of their own with which they are usually satisfied, are very likely
to say humbug to any idea which to them is new and strange. There
also exists in the minds of many intelligent men an opposition to all
professionals endeavoring to improve the horse. This opposition arises
from the many failures of that class and serious damage done to ani-
mals handled by such men. I do not expect to obliterate these preju-

dices, but have courage to hope, from past experience, that if I aim —

given a careful hearing, and my theory put fully into practice, I can
improve the opinions of the people, beyond all doubt, on the subject
of Horse Education.

I am about to introduce to you one of the most easy, practical and
improved systems of horse-training ever known. I have read some-
where about a method which is only to be applied where there are
brains. Now, there is no such thing as a living horse void of brains,
I claim my method can be applied with perfect safety to any animal

(if the brain is not diseased) which is to be made the servant of man, ©

irrespective of age or disposition, favored with the assurance of coin-
plete success, without any bodily torture, brute foree, or abuse what-
ever.

In my bit you will find a combination equal to any emergency in
which a bit may be applied. In combining the effects of the tri-facial
nerve pressure with that of the maxiliary nerve pressure for control-
ing, and also common joint and plain pipe bit action for horses of dif-
ferent bit-taking, with the appliance for preventing any horse from
lopping out the tongue, and with the adjustable nose-piece for smother-
ing, if properly applied, I would like to see the horse that can out-
general you. To prove to you that yard and pen training and reining
is good .only so far as it goes: ‘‘How do you know a horse will not,
balk until you hitch him to something and he refuses to ‘go??” Right
here is where [ claim the great credit for my smothering nose-piece
above all others, as simple as it is. If the animal has been taught to
start ahead by the use of it, he cannot refuse ; he must start, or he
eannot breathe ; and then by letting him breathe (after he starts), as
in the following lessons, he can be nade to do your bidding. It is my
anxiety to try and instruct you how to do, so that you will be success-
ful in your training and educating, and to lessen the labor, risk and

danger both of man and horse, rather than to appear professional, —

scientific, or learned. I may seem to speak with energy and assurance;

and if so, it is because I have studied and practiced what I assert, and

have confidence in wy statements.

THE AUTHOR.

TWENTY SIMPLE RULES

Nature, Disposition and ee, of the Horse.

- First—That the Horse is so constituted by nature that he will not
offer resistance to any demand made of him which he fully compre-
_ hends, if made consistent with the laws of his nature.

Second—That he has no consciousness of his strength beyond his ex-
perience, and ean be handled according to our will, without torture-
ing or abusing.

‘Third—That we can, in compliance with the laws of his nature—by
which he examines all things—take any object, however frightful,
around or on him that does not inflict pain without searing him.

Fourth—That while control is necessary, and you have the means of
making your horse alinost a playtaing ia your hands, let the silken
cord of love be the cement that fixes and secures his submission to your
will.

Fifth—Never undertake anything that you do not know you ean
‘earry out. Who has the power to enforce his will, but who exercises
it with the sweetening encouragement of kindness.

Sixth—Dow’t be in a hurry. Teach the Horse what you want of him,
as a child learns its alphabet, one letter at a time, step by step. Be
sure he knows each letter belore you attempt to teach him another.
Take a rest after each lesson, though it be only a short one.

_ Seventh—Reward each effort to du as you wish, whether he means
it or does it accidentally. Punish once for doing wrong, but caress
ten times for doing right once.

Kighth —In teaching the colt words, always accompany the word with
an explanatory act; for instance, in teaching whoa or back, always
give the word, then the pull, and be sure it is your will that triumphs
in the end. >

Ninth —Never, under any circumstance deceive your horse. Never
say whoa unless you want him to stop and stand still. In going’ down
hill say ‘‘steady boy”—‘‘take care’—or soine other word you like. Do
not say whoa.

Tenrh—After your horse has obeyed a command, do not try to make ©
him refuse, so you can have a chance to compel again. This is deceit
in the rankest form, and also inconsistent and unreasonable. He will
refuse of his own accord enough to get a thorough training. It is un-
reasonable to make a horse kick or balk, in order to get a chance to
break him.

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tation, each time alike, and he will not get confounded or mixed up.

Fifteenth—Never aliow the blacksmith to pare away the bottom of
the flat-footed horse ; you may of the cup-footed one. Do not shoe ; a S3
colt that dwells or points in the trotting gait, wich a heavy shoe, or toe ¢
weight him at first. Shoe light; draw the toe of the shoe out or
round the ground surface of it. Take aa to a smith that inary how
to shoe a horse.

Sixteenth—Give short, quick drives, of say one, two or three hie)
to colts, when educating them, and feed well. Oats have atendeney —
to make a horse lively. A fretter should be fed cracked corn and bran. a
Increase his feed with his training and education, and inerease his daily _
work likewise. Keep him busy for a while and he will be more liable
to forget his vicious tendencies. After you get home with the colt,
take him into the barn immediately ; he has done enough ; do ay try
to teach him anything after a drive. er

Seventeenth—For a well-trained, naturally clever horse, there i is no
check that is so easy or looks so well as the old-fashioned side aes
with gagrunners well up towards the erown-piece. Never check a horse
high on the road, and but little while at work.

_Eighteenth—Never push wet bedding up under the manger to act as
a noctious smelling bottle to the horse’s nostrils. It looks stingy and
is a filthy practice. Keep some dry straw or sawdust under the horse es
at day as well as night time. a

Nineteenth—Remember a good grooming is better than an oii
mess of feed. Give feed regular, and if your horse has to perform an
extra day’s work do not give him an extra feed just before oe if’,
at all give it the eo before. ee.

were,” just a little before he Ae

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~ Introducti

-My oBJECT in presenting this little work to the public is to allevi-
ate as far as possible the sufferings of that noble and much abused
animal, the Horse. God made man in his own image and to him was
given the control over the beasts of the field and birds and fowls of
the earth and air, and fishes of the sea; and in order that man may
successfully exercise that control over the aniwal creation, God has
endowed him with a superior order of intellect. It cannot be denied
that animals have an instinct—an instinct’ capable of education and
government. All have seen or heard of the wonderful feats performed
by animals, birds and serpents, and even swine, which are supposed to
possess the smallest degree of intellect have been educated and made
to perform wonderful feats of intelligence. But man has a higher
mental power, which is reasoning power. Man reasons from cause to
effect, and it isto mind, not to matter, that he looks to explain his
reasoning, for his mind is capable of expansion to an almost unlimited
extent, while animals act only from experience. No animal trained to
do seemingly impossible feats can impart his knowledge to another
ereature. Each must learn by experience or be taught by man. A
horse’s sense is good, common sense. ‘here is in horses, as in men,
much difference, some being more intelligent than others. A horse is
not naturally suspicious, like a wolf, but while young is timid and soon
learns that teeth and heels are his only weapons and flight his greatest
security. With his age comes the knowledge of his power; and if he
has never been controlled or never been made to yield to any will but
his own. If he is to be made a useful servant of man, as a rule the
struggle for generaiship will come sooner or later, and the will of the
horse or that of the man must triumph. Leta horse once learn he ean
gain an advantage over man by the use of his heels and he soon learns
from experience that he can break Slender Thills and. free himself
from the buggy, and with his tail as the flag, the glory of his nostrils
cometh when he rejoiceth in his strength. The horse is possessed of
superior strength, the man of superior mind. It is ther‘tore evident
that we are dependent for our mastery over the horse upon our skill
and ability to use our superior reasoning (if we can discriminate it so
to be,) in such a way as to overcome his strength. In other words we
must outgeneral him upon his own ground, bring him uider our eon-
trol and make him do our bidding, and in order to do this quickly and
successfully we must understand so.vething of his nature and the laws
by which he is governed. ;

I do not present this book as an exceptional treatise on the horse,
but as an easy, plain and practical explanation of my system of educa-
ting colts and unruly horses, while I beg from the scrutinizing publie a
charitable criticism for my deficiencies. I yet feel great confidence’
that this work will meet a hearty approval from all who would be wise
for their own interest. It is also my heartfelt desire that this book
may prove valudble to its readers and help to perform its share of
bringing about the proper management and control of the mest valu-
able of all animal creation, the Horse.

Cc. L. EDWARDS.

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Progressive # Horsemanship.

‘ ILLUSTRATION NO. 1.

(A) —Represents one Lever removed from the Bit. When not re
moved, they may be buckled into the check piece of the Bridle with
the Bit Ring, or buckled into the check the same.

(B)—-Represents the Extension Center Ball removed. When all are
a removed, the Bit is made in effect like the common trotting snaffle.

!

ILLUSTRATION No. 2.

Showing the Hollow Pipe to be placed upon the Joint Bit when
taken apart to make a Straight Pipe Bit for tender-bitted horses, Un-
screw the joint bit at the center and drop one end into the straight bit,
then the other end, and you can see to adjust by the slots or openings

in the straight bit.

Nors.—Or, the ring may be cut at the end of a common joint bit and taken
out, and by using a piece of small gas-pipe and thick leather washers, make a bit
like the one above by replacing the ring after placing the pipe upon the bit.

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“ual process of experiments and dideoeeeradh
and discoveries he has invariably commenced with some ae
ple and gradually developed it from one degree of perfection to |
other. So with all the improvements in training the horse, each
deserves his share of credit, if only sinall. As long ago as 1762 an «
count is given in ‘‘Bartlet’s Gentleman’s Farrier,” of the method of

strapping up the feet ae described as 1B) oy Bracken: s. In 1825 an Tae

once noted whisperer, Sullivan, who flourished elute years ago in
Ireland, was unquestionably based upon the practice of this means o
subjection. A man named Offut claims to have practiced this method —
of subjection in this country as long ago as 1825 and to have sold ‘the —
secret to Mr. Rarey. Mr. d. H. P. Francher, who is well known inthe
New England states, claims to have practiced this method for many
years, and advertises as having given Mr. Rarey his practical instruction:
in the use of the art. But Mr. Rarey established the precedence o.
his claims to the public attention and identified his name with this
theory of management by his exhibitions of power over a number of “4
vicious horses in England in 1858, and also in this country about the
same time. Author. | ae

The Baby Horse.

Almost any one can handle a sucking colt, so there is very little
of many instructions as to that point. Yet it is very importan :
be handled when quite yonng. Some, being stronger than others may
be handled sooner, with safety. A young colt is capable of learnin;
more than most people ever have any idea of. I have taught sucki
colts to follow away from the mother, without anything upon thi
fifteen minutes—colts that had never been handled at all, and nat

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 15

of a wild nature. The first time you take hold of the colt, be sure you
get your hold so he cannot get away. Hold him for a short time (a
good way is to take him around the neck with both arms), then caress
: him, and again hold him for a short time. In a few times handled in
this way, he will learn to have confidence in you, instead of fearing
you ; and if you proceed to halter-break him, as shown in illustration
No. 3, you will never have a halter-puller, or any trouble in that re-
spect. Itis much the ~ etter plan to leave the young colt at home when
away with the dam. Shut him ina box-stall, with no mangers for him
to jump into, and he will do much better than to follow on the road or
farm. Use your own judgment in weaning. I know from experience
that he should not be weaned under five months old, and that colts
wean easier when the sign is going down in the legs and feet. A young
colt is like a boy: he is growing, and needs good food to nourish and
develop his strength and muscles. —‘‘ Sport Oats.”

To Halter-Break Colt or Horse.

First get him into an enclosure. If he is wild, you can do this best
by taking other horses in and he will follow. Then remove the other
horses, and everything else that would be liable to attract his attention
or be in the way, get up to him as carefully as possible, feed him if he
will eat, and get a good strong strap-halter on him ; do not use rope on
his head. Now take about 30 feet of new 78 inch rope ancl double it,
pass the loop over his back, down under his body at the place of the
girt, pass the two ends through the loop end and out between his fore
legs ; now pass each end through each cheek ring of halter,—one on
the right and one on the left, respectively (if there are no rings, tie on
some),—and pull the free ends of the rope through the rings. You
now heve on your horse, as shown in illustration No. 3, a safe and re-
liable mode of halter-breaking. Do not hold him if he tries to move;
let him have his head, and as soon as he gets a little accustomed to it,
stand to one side and partially in front of him and give him a’pull just
strong enough to move him in your direction a step or two ; repeat this
several times and he will learn to lead. I” he is very stubborn, you
may pass the ends of the rope around center post, as seen in illustra-
tion No. 3, but do not tie them yet ; hold the ends in one hand and
pull to the right and left with the other hand. He will soom march up
to the post and lead all right. In teaching him any movement, always
cluck or say, ‘*Come here,” or the proper word signifying whatever
you may want of him. If yau do not give the word, how can he learn

16 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

it ?—and why not commence at first? He should be handled from
both sides and made to turnin a cirele after you, before you try to lead
straight ahead. If you cannot make him turn, take the tail in one
hand and rope in the other and he will surely turn.

ILLUSTRATION NO. 3.

Do not forget to feed him some sweet apples, oats, ete., every time
he does right. You may now get in the position taken in illustration
No. 3 and proceed to draw him up to the post, while you stand back
and hold the rope. You may hold him a little now, and if he pulls,
slack up a little, and then hold again, and repeat, and he will soon
learn to stand up to the post. If he pulls he cannot slat his head, as
the ropes on each side hold it straight with his body. If he should lie
down, apply the smothering nose-piece. Observation will show you
how long to hold it. When he makes an attempt to get up, slack away
on the smothering rein, and by repeating, he will get up if he possibly
can. Now let him breathe as soon as he gets up. He will not try this
mmany times, and you will have a horse well halter-broken. If you
have a sinothering nose-piece, as shown in illustration No. 4, you ean
do the work easy and quick. I have yet to find a horse properly hal-
ter-broke in this way, turn out to bea halter or bridle puller. When
you tie hin, tie him with rig on, as shown in illustration No. 8. Do
not tie him and leave him alone until he leads well,

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Yon may

a reply, simply because eperee is no living:

‘a but that will move ahead to get its breath. If properly ap-

it will break any halter-puller, no matter how contirmed in the

it he. may be, as shown i in east aHOus and in instructions in colar.
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EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

j Pat. applied for.}
Inuustration No. 414.

THE SMOTHERING HALTER OR BRIDLE Nose PIECE is no sinali
invention in the control of horses, mules, ete., as it comes in where
nothing else in the world will do the work. I have heard of pouring
water in an animal’s nose to get him up when in a sulk or lying down.
This is dangerous, injurious, destructive and inhuman, as most always
the animal is pretty well warmed up when in a sulk, and the sudden
cold thrust upon his head and nasal glands, caused by the use of cold
water, is liable to give the animal eold in the head, resulting in death
from running glanders. I can bring proof of a case of this kind,
caused by the use of cold water ; so never use it, but use the smother-
ing nose-piece and good results will be sure to follow, and you will
come out triumphant every time. Furthermore, I have seen horses

that would swallow water &s fast as you could pour it into their noses,
and would not get up then.

mS ares PROGHKESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 19

Bitting or Check-Reining the Colt.

First, construct a bridle like one in illustration No. 5, with Edwards’
‘Coimbination Bit.

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ILLUSTRATION NO. 5.

Now take vour co’t upon the barn floor, or in a good yard, which is
a better place ; put bridle, as represented in illustration No. 5, upon
him, and let him get familiar with the place by walking around a few
minutes alone. (If he is a clever fellow, you may remove the side Jev-
ers ; buckle one draw in bit-ring, place slide loop well up on forehead.)
You may now take a whip and drive him around the floor er yard a few
times ; but be sure there are no places he can jump over or get his head
into, or doors that will push out and let him fall back through if he
should happen to back up against them (after he is checked). Do not,
under any circumstances, allow neighbors or bystanders present. If
visitors come, let your colt be aloue until they go away, or put him in
the stable. No man can train a horse, or any other animal, with visi-
tors taking part in the fun, as they call it. Now take a small rope
(new ear beli-rope is best) about 25 feet in length, place the center in
the check-hook, pass the ends through the loops or gagrumers on the
over-draw, from the back side, and down through the bit-rings ; the
same thence back through the rings on side of girt, (which rings may
be tied to any girt, with a good, stout string). Now take position as
seen in ijlustration No. 6:

20 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

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ILLUSTRATION No. 6.

You may draw on the cord lightly, at times increasing the tightness
until you get his head up a little. This will take some time, but is a
very important lesson and should be well taught. After he will hold
his head up well, keep it there; and if should show signs of lying down
or bearing heavily in the check, slacken up and repeat until he will
hold his head in a fair position. The beauty of this first lesson in
checking by my method, is that there is no danger, as with the station
ary check rigging, of the colt getting mad, and striking and rearing,
for you can slacken up before he has a chance to do this, if you watch
him closely. After he will hold his head up reasonably well, you may
approach him, caress him, and let him rest. Do not, as in all other
lessons, forget to caress him when he obeys. Now draw his head up
again and tie the cord in a bow knot at his breast, as seeu in illustra-
tion No. 7:

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. Pent)

ILLUSTRATION No. 7.

And if he has any notion of check fighting, or side reining, you
Gan prevent it by pulling upon the cord on the off side if he earries
his head te th: near side. By pulling upon the near one if he carries
his head to the off side. Drive him around you in a circle both ways,
keeping his head straight ahead of him, unless inclined to side rein, in
which ease look well to the outward edge of the upper molars. If they
project, file them smooth with a float, and draw the cord through the
ring, which will keep his head curved a little to the opposite side from
which he wants to carry it. This should take from 15 to 30 minutes,
and should be repeated for several days, according to the age and dis-
position of the colt.

Some say there is very little, if any, benefit to 5 derived from
checking lessons, but I would like you to know that there are several
reasons for the checking lessons, especially when given as herein de-
scribed. In the first place, it teaches the colt that you can raise his
head with ease whenever you please, whether you are infront, behind,
or at his side, and gives you a splendid opportunity to make a study of
his disposition, and teaches him the bearing of the bit, and with limited
jessons of 15 to 30 minutes and repeating, you educate the head and
render the neck to the purpose of being free and easy upon the rein.
After he is sufficiently broken to the check rein, you ean bring his head
and neck into such position and style as his form and temper will
allow or your faney dictate. Remember, I am not a believer in check-
ing a colt or a horse up with any kind of a check, and letting him, or
making him, run in an enclosure, or driving him around ‘for hours”
atatime. I think there are very few period in a horse’s life when he
is more brutally treated than when used this way. It only has a ten-

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Dy EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

dency to make a ‘‘iugger”, or ‘‘sway head” of him, and does not edu- i:
cate him in the least. So never check a colt and make him suffer for —

“hours with any check rig on. Better never checked, than checked in

such a manner.

Handling at the Head with Bridle.

Place upon him Edwards’ bridle, as seen in illustration No. 5. Leave
the extension center piece in. Ifthe mouth is very concave, you may
raise it so it will press vgainst the roof of the mouth when you pull
back on the bit rings. After the bridle is adjusted on the horse, buckle
gag runners up to the crown piece to hold the over-draws. Buckle into
the bit rings two leading lines about 6 or 8 feet long, adjust the side
loop so when you pull back on the reins the levers will slide toward the
center of the bit and throw center piece to the roof of the mouth.
Have the bit just a little below the corners of the mouth; and for
stubborn, willful subjects, have the strap, or slide loop, holding side
levers over the nose, quite snug,; for milder ones, not so snug. Now
take the near leading rein, pass it over his neck and down ou the off
side, and through the off bit ring from the upper and inside. Then
take the off rein, pa:s it over the neck, down the near side and through
the near bit ring, from the upper and inside. Now take position es
shown in illustration No. 8:

ILLUSTRATION NO. 8.

Norsz.—If you subject is vicious or wild, and liable to bite and kick, you may
use longer reins, and pass one each sido of the center plate, and catch lines
around the pole until he will give to the bit.

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. ; 23

Take a firm hold of each line in each hand and pull to the left and
down, and your horse will be apt to follow. If he refuses, give a
stronger pull, and repeat this work from both sides until he will turn
readily both ways; then you may gradually work away from, and a
little farther back, uutil he will move around you readily at some dis-
tance away. Now lead‘him straight ahead and repeat. These lines
over the check should be narrow or round, and not twisted, one a little
back of the other and about ten inches back of the crown piece of the
bridle. A small rope may be used for this, tying knots below the bit
ring, so they will not slip through the hands. Do not check while

giving him leading lessons. Repeat the lessons until you get good

control of the head.

Reining to Drive.

You may now take out these reins and put ina pair of good, heavy,
inch and a quarter lines, about 18 feet in lenght. You must have a

good, round, smooth pole, or post, about the size of a wagon tongue is

large enough, and place it-in the center of your training yard or barn
floor, so it will stay. Take two pieces of scantling and nail them down
in the shape of a V and place the pole between them; then nail down

another piece at the open sidé (this will keep it at the bottom, if on a

floor) if in the ground, set it firmly. Secure the top so it will
stay, and you have something that will help you more than a man.
in reining a vicious colt or horse. Take position as seen in illustration
DO

ILLUSTRATION NO. 9.

.

24 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL
Pass the otf line through the ring on off side and o. er his back; now
pass the near line around the pole, take in left hand and give a light
pull, and at the same time slap him on the hip with the off line ; drive
and handle him from both sides the same, and repeat ; if he refuses to
gz0, pull on the line around the pole and slap him about the hips with
the off line. While driving around the center pole, you may work the
off line down around his hips at the place of the breeching. (See ii-
lustration No. 9. Now if he should kick, draw his head up to the pole

and hold him there, toss the off line upon his back, then take an ex- _

tension line and buckle it to the end of the off line, which should be
lying across his back. Now take the end of this line, pass it through
the ring on near side from back side, and the near line around the cen-
t«r pole, as seen in illustration No. 15 (or pass it through the ring, as
seen in dotted lines in illustration No. 15 for kickers : this will give you
_ a double-ring purchase, and after doubling him up a few times, he will
not offer to kick at the rein about his hips in place of breeching)..

Now step up to him and carefully work the off line down over his —

rump, holding to the end of lines with the left hand. Now, if he tries
to kick, hold to. him and pull the line through the ring, and there is no
horse that can get the best of you. Keep a firm hold and follow
around after him, and he cannot hurt himself or you either. I have
yet to find the horse. mustang, or mule, that can get away with this

purchase. Repeat, and work from both sides the same until he is .

willing to have the line about his hipsin place of breeching. You may
now take the lines out, let him rest, and caress him. (Give him apples,
oats, or something else that he likes. Even with the worst horse, this
will be found a great help, as well as with the more clever ones.) It
diverts the channel of his thoughts from his work to rest and ease.
You are now veady to give him lessons in starting and stopping.

I have said nothing as yet in regard to the word ‘‘ Whoa.” This is
the most important of all the commands the horse has to Jearn. Why?
Because, if he knows he must stop and stand when you say whoa, he
never will run, turn around, kick, ete.; therefore, never undertake to
drive a horse to a light vehicle until you are sure he will stop when
you pull upon him and say ‘‘ whoa.” To make him do this easily, take
position as seen in illustration No. 10,

the Fle in his Oat, to the one or left, Tey
start, take the near line out of side ring, step to the front
lon he near fling, uae fen throw it ahead, —

26 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

Immediately after, slap him with the off line around the hips, or tap .

him lightly with the whip. If he gets in a balky sulk, apply the
smothering nose-piece and he will start, for he cannot breathe unless
he does ; and there is no animal living that will not start before he will
suffocate. After he starts, take position behind him (see illustration
No. 10), and as he goes around the center pole, work elose to it, draw
both lines around it, and say *‘ whoa;’”’in a smooth, firm tone. This

will stop him, no matter how hard he may try to get away. Donot — ;

hoid him too long; ease up ; start him again, and repeat. He will

soon stop by your setting him back with the lines and giving the word

** whoa.” Repeat these lessons until he will stand at the word *‘ whoa.”
1 use only two reins in my driving and training, as I think it is too late
to try to teach the American horseman to drive with three lines, as
sone methods recommend. Furthermore, that a forward motion of
the line and slapping the horse’s face, as it were, or thumping the bit
in the mouth (as I have practiced a long time), though I am preceded
by another in bringing it before the public, which I can prove I have
used for years (see testimonial), has a tendency to start the horse ; but
I have seen many a horse that would stand and take this forward mo-
tion until the line was worn into, and then would not start, while a
tender-mouthed horse will jerk his head and aet awkward if you are
too severe, or give him the forward motion of the line too much. The
little sinotherer needs no motion to start any horse. This forward mo-
tion of the line is good for control while you are upon the ground,
some distance from the horse (but for control when you are near the
horse, see illustration No. 8). I do not believe it is right to teach a
horse to start ahead by a steady pull, as seen in illustration No. 8, and
then the next thing give him a steady pull to stop him. The leading
purchase is to lead a horse and make him familiar with the bit, while
a pull upon both reins is used to stop him, and a motion of one rein to
start him. Aecording to the following testimonial, I think it ean de
done easily with my bit : . .

Sr. Exmo, Texas, August 5, 1885.

While Mz. C. L. Edwards lived in this county, I saw him train a number of

horses. 1 also assisted him at different times; used the forward motion of the
line, as directed by him, and saw him as the first one to use this motion of line.
In his training here, he never made a failure.

W. C. Reap, Austin, Texas.

. Construct a breaking

Seg n illustration No. 12:

ah oe CTR he US RU AP em ra
SRE MR AM NEA ra ig ikl

NANCE ab ae an

28

Fig. 1—Hand piece. Fig, 2—Rearing preventive.

ILLUSTRATION No. 12.

Dimensions:—Axletree, 2 feet from center to ground; thills, 31¢ feet apart at
bolts in front side of sulky and 3 feet apart at front ends.

For sulky you may take the front axle of a light or medium weight
team wagon. Take out the tongue and place the hind wheels on, in
place of the front one, to make the sulky the right height. Ges two
poles the size of a wagon tongue and about 114 feetlong. Bolt a plank
to them, and then bolt these to the axle, having the formost plank far
enough ahead to cover the hound. Bolt a box about 2 feet high, 1 foot
wide, and 4 feet long, on lengthwise as seen in illustration No. 12, so
you can sit astride; make some good foot braces, and you have a sulky
that if made of good timber no horse can break, let him do what he
may. Now take the sulky into the training yard and proceed to make
your colt familiar with it by first leading him into the thills and out.
Diive him out in the road and back, then lead him into the thills
again, and repeat. Drive him out into a good meadow lot if you ean,
as this is the best place to teach any colt to turn around, and give him
his first lesson in driving. Now drive him back to the sulky. You
will not need any breeching. Nail or screw some good, firm pieces of
leather lengthwise on the bottom of the sulky thill, about where the
hips will come. Wind a good rope around and across the thills, pass-
ing it through the space left for it between the leather, to serve as a
breeching (See illustration No, 12). Draw the rope tight, tie it, and
wind the whole length around with a good string. This will make a
round roll and will uot cutor chafe. You may wind this with cloth of
some kind if you wish. Lead your colt into the thills again with his —
head toward the sulky ; lift up the thills, chafe them against his sides |
and hips, lead him out and bring him up at right angles with the thills, en
make him stop with his front feet between the thills, then hind ones 4
the same ; pull him a little to the left, which will bring him in position es 4
to hitch, raise up your thills slowly and proceed to hiteh him. If he |
should refuse to stand in thills, tie him with his head in corner of en- — Ren

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 29

is closure, or tie him each way so he will be obliged to stand in center of

floor, run sulky up to him carefully, and chafe thills up and down his
hips and hind legs. As he is tied in the center, he cannot possibly get
away, and you ean hitch him to the sulky. Draw him tight enough in
the harness to make the rope cross-bar nearly touch his hips, hiteh
your traces, buckle kicking-holders, and put a strap around the thills
and under his body, just back of front legs, so as to keep thills down :
a rope will answer for this, if you have no strap; draw them up snugly

‘and your horse is properly hitched. Take him by the near line with

left hand, about three feet from the head, with off line passing around
his hips, or, better still, through ring on his back ; take in right hand,
as seen in illustration No. 16, and lead him around the yard a few
times. if he acts very nervous, stop him often, caress, and repeat.
After he leads well, you may get on the sulky and proceed to drive
him around the yard a few times. (Remember, this yard should be
free from plows, harrows, ete.) He will not refuse to go, if his former
lessons have been properly taught him. If he should refuse to go, step
to one side and a little to the front and throw the line upon that side
sharply forward, at the same time slapping him around the hips with
the other line. If he still refuses, apply smothering nose-piece and he
will go. Drive him out in the meadow earefully until you get him into
the field, then proceed to turn him to the right and left, stopping often
and caressing him. He cannot kick, as the strap over his hips will
hold him down and the rope breeching will catch the force of his kick
backward, so there is no danger of his hurting either himseif or you.
This is a good time to get him used to being touched around the hind
legs with the whip. When hitched, tell him to start, and touch him
lightly around the hind legs as you sit in the sulky. If he should
make an attempt to kick, touch him sharply once around the hind legs,
change the bit in his mouth strongly, tell him to behave in a good, firm
tone; and by repeating, your colt will never kick, or refuse to start
when told to go or touched with the whip. (F ain not a believer in
back and shoulder whipping, only for trotting and trick horses, in some
eases, because it is not the practice and cannoi be made the practice,
as the whips made for road-driving purposes are not long enough and
even if they were, no one that owns a good horse wants him ridged
over the back and shoulders. If they should think it necessary to use
the whip upon him, as a rule it always has and always will be the prac-
tice for horsemen to whip about the hind legs when driving on the
road.) Drive your colt around the field several times, then to the
barn, unhitch him and put him in the stable. Do not try to teach him
another thing at present. Repeat these lessons several times. Drive
him in the road, hitched to the sulky, several times, always hitching
him as directed, and in a few days you will have a colt that knows
more about being driven than he would if he had been used two

30 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL -

months with an old horse. If you think he is liable to throw himself,
arrange the rope-breeching for enough ahead so when he goes down
and gets up again, he cannot get his front legs over the thills, also fas-
ten the thills well up on his sides. It is a good plan to have the lines
out of the territs, in driving, the first few times. If you wish, you
may substitute any other method instead of this plan that you think
the case may require. But if you follow these directions closely, there
will be no limbs broken, lives lost, or damage done.

Teaching the Colt to Back.

Place upon him breaking-harness and bridle, adjusted properly (see
illustration No 11), standing directly behind him, as seen in illustra-
tion No. 13

ILLUSTRATION NO. 13.

The backing lesson should not be given until the colt has been
driven several times. and minds the other commands well, as he will
then be undér better control by the use of the Bir, which is the all
important instrument in training any horse, and not so liable to run
back. Now take the colt out on some good level place, stand direetly

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSH!P. dl

behind him, say ‘‘ back,” give a strong pull on both lines, and slacken

immediately. If he takes one step back or to one side, caress and re-
peat, always slacking up quickly after you pull back, and in a short
time your colt will back all right. (If you brace or pull steady, he will
learn your weakness, and you cannot back him that way at all.) If he
should start ahead, move the bit sharply through his mouth, say
‘‘whoa,” and repeat; back as before. If he still starts ahead, take
him to center-pole and catch him around pole as described in learning
‘‘ whoa,” hold the lines around the pole with the right hand, and take
hold of the near line, close to the bit, with left hand ; pull back and
to the left. If he should start ahead, catch him with the lines around
pole and repeat, and he will soon back readily. ‘Take time.” If he
is hard to back, three or four lessons will be necessary. If he should

rear, take position as seen in illustration No. 14.

ILLUSTRATION NO. 14.

Say ‘‘Back,” and give quick, strong pulls back and to the left and
he will take a step or two toward you. Caress and repeat. This will
keep him on his feet, and by gradually working away from his head he
will back all right. Work the same from both sides. If he should be
a chronic rearer,you may give backing lessons hitched to the the sulky
as instructed in the lesson on rearing, with rearing preventative fasten-
ed to the hind end of the sulky. Herehe will not rear and will give

up thehabit entirely. If you fail, look for lesson entitled: “Bad to
easack,”? :

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32 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

| WILL NOW GIVE A FEW LESSONS ON THE HABITS OF THE :
MATURE HORSE.

The Kicking Horse.

Place upon the horse Edward’s Bridle, as seen in illustration No.
14. Begin by giving him strong pulls to the right and ieft. The horse
must be made to know that the bit was made to govern. If you do
not get control of a horse’s mouth and head you cannot teach him. —
Immediately after you give each pull, slacken upon the lines. This __
will prevent him from rearing, throwing himself, or getting a pull on
you in any way. Use longer leading lines if you like. Now you may
give him a lesson in each of the former lessons, except halter br2 aking
and checking, though you may, if a check fighter, give him a checking —
lesson. When it comes to placing the lines down around his hips after
the other lessons, you may take position as seen in illustration No, 15:

ILLUSTRATION No. 15-

Work the off line down to this position from his back. Stand with
a firm hold of both lines. Tap him with whip, saying ‘Get up”, and if
he offers to kick, shut him up by pulling on both lines. If he makesit
a little warm for you to catch him around the center pole, say “‘Whoa’
and stop him. Repeat this until he will allow the use of the lines Vile}
around his hips in place of the br eeching. — NAME

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 33

It you fail to stop his kicking in this manner, place a good fitting
strap around each leg, above the fetlock joints, with rings on. Attach
a strap to the ring on his cff front leg, pass it over the girth and back
to his near hind leg and fasten to the strap on that leg. Now attach
a strap to the ring on the near front leg and pass it over the
girth and back to the off hind leg and fasten to the strap on that
leg. He can trot or walk with this upon him, but cannot kick, with
either foot. He may try to, but in doing so he will jerk up his front
feet if your straps are arranged right, and he will soon stop. In kick-
ing with this rig on, he does not jerk upon his mouth, and thereby
punish himself unreasonably. It may be necessary to tie a ring on the
back strap, just in front of his hips, and pass another strap through
this and attach to the straps on each side that are upon his legs, to
keep him from stepping over them ; always use straps for this, as they
will not chafe or hurt the legs like rope. This arrangement will make
a pacing horse trot. The harness for pacing, however, should be lined
with wvol where it goes around the legs, and always placed above the
fetlock joints instead of below. Now let him rest, give him something
to eat, and caress. Do not take any pole about the kicking horse to
pole him about the legs (use a long bow-top whip for this purpose).
Men of limited practice cannot handle a pole, kicking horse and reins,
without a mix-up, and, nine times out of ten, you will get a horse to
kicking by maneuvering around him with a pole. My wayis to pre-
vent this horse from kicking every time he tries, and not tantalize him
by making him walk straddle of a pole (as some theories instruct. Do
you ever want to use a horse straddle of a pole? No). If you stop
his kicking, he will never get streddle of a pole, thills, ete. In my ex-
perience, the least maneuvering you have around a kicker the better you
are off; only to thoroughly teach him he must not and cannot kick,
when commanded not to, by use of bit and command. Now you are
ready to zitch him into the breaking-sulky. Draw him back snug in
the gears, so the rope-breeching will come close to his hips, adjust the
kicking-holders over his hips and buckle quite snug, as seen in illustra-
tion No. 16.

ILLUSTRATION No. 16.

Now say ‘‘Get up” and give him a pull on the near line and at the
same time tap him lightly with the whip. If his former lessons have
been thorough he will start. Drive him around you in a eirele in the
training yard both ways several times, and finally get up on the —
sulky. Never fear—he cannot possibly kick if your harness, ete., are
good material. Drive him out into the meadow lot, and here give him
a thorough lesson in turning, stoping after starting by word, acecompa-
nied by a tap of the whip. Repeat next day, and continue until he
will not offer to kick; then yon may drive to carriage, with overdraw
buckled into the levers and side loop, well down on the nose. If he
makes an attempt to kick, stir the bit sharply.

If you follow these rules closely, you can break a kicker every time.
Why? Because he cannot kick and forgets it, from habit foreed upon
his mind by practice. After you get your horse in thills and hitehed,
you may remove the leg harness if you like.

<

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 35

Kicking in Double Harness.

Handle exactly the same as kicking horse single, and while in the
thills have a gentle horse with the harness on and lead-him up by the
side of the kicker. Put on a pair of cross lines and neck yoke. Leave
your single lines on the kicker and place them across the seat. Start
them up, and if he should try to kick, correct him by using single lines
sharply. He cannot kick, and you may drive hini this way until he
does not offer to. Then remove him from the sulky to a team wagon.

The next time hitch first to the sulky and then from that to a team
wagon again, and he will not kick for the same reason as the other—
simply ferce of habit.

The Balky Horse.

Place upon him Edward’s Bridle, as seen in illustration No. 14.
Handle him thoroughly right and left or your time will only be wasted.
Give him reining lessons nntil he will, turn readily either way at the
word or movement of the lines. There are several classes of balkers.

Some balk single; some double; some on a plow, etc. My theory will

never fail if properly applied. I handled one balky horse for Phoenix
Miller in Texas (see testimonial) which had been handled by five differ-
ent men and was considered by Mr. Miller as worthless to work. This
horse would balk and if told to start, would throw himself flat upon
the ground and would not get up. I do not believe any man could
have trained him to drive without the use of the smothering nose
piece. He would also take spells of sulking and kicking and pay no
attention to the whip or bit. I applied the smothering nose piece and
trained this horse so I drove him, with my wife and child, to Mr. Mil-
ier’s, hitched to a top carriage. From this carriage I hitched this horse —
to a plow, and he worked all right. His age was 9 years, he was 15

hands high, and weighed 1100 pounds, and was of the mustang element.

I only write this as an explanation to show what effect smotherin$ will
have on balky horses. Now, if your horse balks, first find out if the

driver is not a little balky. Then, after the driver is found to be al}

right, if he balks, place upon the smothering nose piece as seen in illus-

tration No. 17; pass the tugs back through the rings used for kicking

holders, as seen in illustration No. 11. Tie close to the hips where the

breeching comes with a good, stout strap, then tie to the end of this

strap a chunk of wood. Take up the tugs so that when you place ona

single tre; it will be close fo the hips, or better, tie a strap in the place

of single tree. °

oer ee : cable Bi ge Ra ep sige? A ie

HANI

36

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ILLUSTRATION No, 17.

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pAle
a

ae = “ ty
Gh v

Now stand infront and a little to the left, as seen in illustration
No. 17. Pull upon the strap that leads to the smothering nose piece, —
and he will start immediately. Slacken up to let him know that he ©

, way, then tie on a larger chunk and drive him out in the field, and so
on. Increase the weight of this until it is the heft of a plow. The — ;
beauty of this plan is, it does not give the horse any chance to get in a oh)
mixup if he backs up. He cannot get out of the traces and the strap
will not hurt his legs; and by putting the heaft on gradually, he is
drawing all right before he knows it. Gradually work away from his pie: 4
head, and you will soon bs behind your horse plowing. Remove the Since
chunk of wood and hitch onto the plow. Catch the plow in now and a
then, andsoon you can run the plow in all right. If he balks double fae
on the plow, drive another horse on his off side, with him dragging the
chunk; then change to the plow. If nervous or fiighty, use blind |
bridle. If he balks to wagon, use the same as before, only hitched to —
the breaking sulky. HH he balks double to wagon, place a horse by

has done right. If you have no smothering nose piece, you may stand

infront of him and a little to one side, and give him the forward motion _ e
of the line. Raise the line up a little, slacken and throw it sharply ate a
ahead and slightly upward at the same time, and use Edwards’ Bit. — ne
Caress and feed him some apples, ete. Work him a little while this m:

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. © 37

his side as described for a kicker. Use this-way until he will draw all
right, always placing him on the near side at first. You can increase
the load on the sulky by placing on several good sized flat stones, one
atatime. For horses that run back, a lesson will be found on the
following pages. A very nervous balky horse is best trained on the
sulky and disposed of for a roadster.

The Runaway.

Give him a thorough lesson in reining, as for balky horse, and
then use him around center pole several times; catch him, and stop
him suddenly at the word ‘‘ whoa,” as seen in illustration No. 18.

ILLUSTRATION NO. 18.

Do not stop until you have got a dead certain ‘‘ WHOA” on him, even
if you are obliged to use blind, bridle and whip to get him on the bit,

and then catch him around the center pole and set him back in a way
that will make him think WHOA is a word that must be minded. Re-
_peat this several times, then hitch him to sulky, and if there is any
one thing he is afraid of, make him familiar with it before driving.

As I have said before, no matter how much fear a horse may show, he
can -be made to stand to have anything, no matter how frightful,

brought around and on him, if in compliance with the laws of his na-
ture, provided no pain is inflicted ; that is, you cannot take a wild
horse around a steaming engine, or even drive him over a bridge, as in
so short a time he has never seen any such thing and knows nothing of
it, and it is not in compliance with the laws of his nature. If it be the
ears or a road engine, get him used to them gradually. Do not think

=

SI Sr

on ae

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},
ie

ad

an instant. The man ee says he can do eae, is a little “off.”

SUE od horse is worth a good training ; if not, fatten him and sell him.

38

“Take
time ; and if you have no time, hire some competes man that has,

If at any time your runaway horse should show signs of fear, or try toni
go faster than you think he ought, say ‘‘steady,” and set him back (do
this now and then, even if he shows no fear); it will keep the impres-
sion upon his mind and teach him not to run when you say ‘‘steady ”
and pull on the lines. If at any time he should get under headway,
keep him in the middle of the road, throw his head from one side to
the other, which you can do if you have bridle and bit properly ad-
justed, and he will stop. Now drive him back to the place from whieh
he started, get off the sulky and give the lines one wrap around the
near hub of wheel, letting the end you have hold of come under and out-
side ; always place the lines under the hub, thence around back and —
over hub once. Now hold to the ends of the lines, make him start,
and if he tries to run, say ‘‘ whoa,” holding ‘fast to the lines, and he
will soon find out that you can hold him ; for the more he goes, the _
tighter the lines draw. As soon as he stops, let up on the lines and)
stand ready in case he should try again. If he stands, you may tell
him to start, and touch him a little with the whip ; then say *‘ whoa,”
and hold to the lines around the hub, and he will be obliged to stop.

I once broke a horse in this way. He would mind the word ‘*‘ whoa”
any and everywhere, only in one place, and there be would start and
run every time. After 1 wound him up three times, I had no further —
trouble in holding him. If your lines and harness are good materia],
you can hold any horse this way, when hitched to break sulky. —

There is another way to hold a desperate runaway. Thisis, touse .
the trip lines: Place upon each front ankle a good-fitting strap with —
ring on it; buckle a good pair of lines in these, with rein-holders, so
he cannot jerk them out of your hands; pass them over the girts and
back, and after training him in former lessons, hiteh to break-sulky ;
take these lines, and also the ones from bit, in your hands, hold the :
reining lines between thumb and forefinger, take the trip-lines in the -
other three fingers) and when he starts to run, pull hard on the lines
all together, and he will trip down on his nose. If there is snow on. —
the ground, it will not hurt him ; but if not, you ean easily pad his _
knees with some cloth, so he will not injure them; or take him to a
ploughed field. This arrangement will more thoroughly take the eon-
ceit out of a desperate runaway or a desperate kicker, and in less time,
than anything else. Of course, judgment must be exereised, and do
not trip him but a few times, as there is no need of it. This method ie
is used by the best horse-tfainers to teach horses to go without reins,
ete. If your thills are stout, they will not break, and you wiil haveno —
trouble in that direction. By following the little advice laid down for
the management of this kind of a horse, you will never be outdone ~

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. Treo,

or get run away with, The first horse of my own training has yet to
get away from me with harness on and hitched to break-sulky. It will
be the same with you, if you follow the rules herein described.

UB

The Check Fighter.

The horse of mature age that has become a check fighter, or sulks
one the check, is very hard to handle ; at least, I have found them so,
more especially among the western horses or mustangs than any of the
‘native horses. ‘To train the horse, take a good stout blind bridle, with
bitting rig adjusted as in No. 7, and a good stout pair of long lines
buckled to bit. Pass lines through rings on girt, get directly behind
him, start him up, and if he makes a sulk on the check, throw his head
from one side to the other, which will disconcert him and he will soon
20 off all right. By repeating, he will forget to brace in check and the
habit will be entirely broken up, in most cases. If some one has made
a stubborn check-fighter of him and he refuses to be checked at all,
lies down, rears, plunges, ete., you may take eight or ten feet of small
rope (ear bell-cord is good) and bind his head by making a small loop
‘on one end of the cord, pass the cord through the mouth and over the
_ head, just back of the ears, then through loop on the end, and draw
up tight ; then pass the cord through mouth again, and so on until it
is all wound on the head, through the mouth, placing each preceding
stran just back of the other; that is, winding back on the neck in-
stead of making a bunch on top of the head. When all is tightly
wound on, tie, and turn loose. This is only for the worst cases of
check and rein fighters. N. B.—Do not leave this on more than five
minutes, and repeat if necessary.

_The Hard Puller.

When a man makes the assertion that he can break up this habit
in a few lessons, so that the horse can be driven on any bit, as Will
Hereafter Show, you can make up your mind that he isa crank. For
iostanee, if you were driving a trotter, and he had been a hard puller,
‘and you had found a bit that you could manage him with and keep
him from running away, no matter what kind of a bit or combination
check you might have upon him, if you Should take it off and place
upon him a common rubber bit, do you think you could hold him?
You might just as well say that you could hold him with a halter. Use
this horse with Edwards’ bit and bridle, as described for runaway as

40) EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

seen in illustration No. 18, then hitch him to some light vehicle, take
him to a track, or on the road, start him up, and if he takes the bit too
hard, set him back, as in former lessons, and he will soon learn the
same power is there to hold him as before. Keep the bridle and bit on
and adjust the slide loop down over the lower swell, or middle one, in
a position that he will drive pleasant upon, and leave it there ; at any
time he shows signs of pulling too hard, run the slide loop down over
the lower swell ; this increases the pressure upon the nerves, as herein
described, while raising it, lessens the pressure.

Bolters or Side Pullers.

Look at the molar teeth, or grinders, as they are commonly ealled,
as they may cut either one side or the other, and cause the animal to
pull upon one line. If they seem rough and uneven, have your veteri-
nary surgeon float them off with a float ; if this does not break up the
habit, take position as seen in illustration No. 19.

ILLUSTRATION NO. 19.

If he bolts, or pulls to the right, pass the near line around pole
and give a strong pull upon it, and at the same time slap him around
the hips with the off line ; keep’ on giving these strong pulls in this
manner until he will give to the pull of the rein readily. If he

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. ? 41

bolts, or pulls to the left, pass the off line around center pole, give
strong pulls upon it, and repeat, and you can break any side-puller.
(It is a good plan to have this horse thoroughly bitted and check-reined
before commencing to drive him.) Drive him out into the road, or up
and down the floor, and occasionally give a strong pull upon the rein
on opposite side to which he pulls, until he vill move his head this way
as easy as that; then you may hitch him and drive with Edwards’
bridle. Slide loop well down on his nose, and at any time he tries to
pull on one line, give him a determined pull in the opposite direction,
touch him up a little with the whip, and repeat the straightening pull,
and you will make him perfect. It is a good plan to carry the whip for
a while on the opposite side from the way he earries his head, and oc-
easionally give it a switch, to draw his attention that way ; use open
bridle for this practice. A horse that bolts, or pulls hard both ways, is
not properly educated in reining, and needs lessons in reining to break
it up.

The Cranky Horee.

There are in horses, as in men, cranks ; that is to say, they seem
quite bold in their undertakings, yet are very easily overset. Because
a man is in the horse business, or any other business, and his whole
soul is bound up in it, it is no sign that he is a crank, as some would
pronounce him. But if a horse is a bolter, or side-reiner, aud seem-
ingly can-be driven in no other way, and by chance or otherwise you
discover he can be easily overthrown or controlled, it shows he was a
erank, provided no irritating cause existed to promote his misdoings,
whiek irritation shonld always be removed, whether the animal be
eranky or viscious, A melancholy say-nothing, or a continual talker,
will never succeed in any business. While at times silence is power,
the right thought spoken at the right time, in the right way, has often
greater power than silence. Even in training, undue familiarity will
breed contempt in the horse, as it will with your associates, and should
be avoided.

Mik ah A ia a AH ech ih bes
} ; Ae Ra

42 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

Whirling Around.

Some horses have the habit of always whirling around one way, ° oe,
while others may go either way. Handle this horse exactly thesame —

as for bolter or side-puller. Use the Edwards bridle, as shown in illnus-
tration No. 20.

ILLUSTRATION No. 20.

And for one that always whirls the same way, that is, if he whirls
to the right, pass the near line around center pole, and wake him up*
occasionally with the whip; if he tries to turn to the right, give him
the bit in the opposite direction, and proceed to handle him from both
sides if needed. Hitch him to break-sulky and set him in motion with
the whip ; watch him closely, and if he makes a move to whirl, apply
the whip and give him the pull in the direction you want him, and he
will soon learn that you can manage him and keep him in the road. |
While driving this horse in the road, it is a good plan to pull him oc-
casionally from one side to the other, so he will know you have the
power to rein him. It is not safe to drive this horse to a light gig until
he is thoroughly trained.

Shying at Objects.

There is but one thing to do with this horse to break him properly
(providing his eyes are all right ; a moon-eyed horse, or one that is par- —

tially blind, is not really to blame for his shying). But the worst cases

ean be broken as follows: Handle him around the eenter pole with

blind bridle and Edwards’ bit, get up some fear of whip and bit, hitch

him to break-sulky, drive him out into the road, and if at any time he _
shows fear or signs of shying, move the bit quickly from one side to

-

@

a

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 43

_ the other in his mouth, touch him lightly with the whip to draw his
attention, say ‘‘whoa” and stop him; do not let him stand long ;

touch him lightly again with the whip, and command him to start. If
he attempts to shy, throw his head strongly toward the object, and
very soon after, throw it strongly the other way, then straight ahead,
which in most cases will diseconcert him so he will be all right. Do not
whip your horse for showing fear, as it teaches him that the whip is

eoming te hurt him, and he will try the harder to get away. In most
eases, fear is brought on by the sudden appearance of something

which the horse sees in a different light from man and is frightened.
On the other hand, if he had been taught by degrees that he would
not be harmed, he never would have shown fear, which is the only

' proper way, as will be shown in lessons where a horse is afraid of a

bufialo robe, ete. Most shyers drive better with open bridle, while
some need the blinds, so they cannot watch the driver.

Running Back.

Use Edwards’ bridle, and take position as shown in illustra-
tion No. 21.

ILLUSTRATION NO. 23.

_ Give him strong pulls to the right and left until his mouth is well
under the control of the bit; after this, you may take off the leading
lines, place upon him the break-harness, and use him a while around
center-pole until he will turn readily either way; handle him thor-

oughly, the same as side-puller. Now hitch him to break-sulky, as

seen in illustration No. PY

44 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

ILLUSTRATION NO. 22.

Place hind end of sulky against post or wall, tell him to start, or
lead him ahead a few steps, and stop; make him stand, and then tell
him to back, and in the meantime, if he tries to run back, pull on the

“\ines and say ‘t whoa.” Just before the hind end of sulky strikes the
post, stop again 8 or 10 feet from the post, and tell him to start ; if he
tries to run back, pull hard upon the lines, and just before the sulky
strikes the post, say ‘‘whoa”’; the rope ecross-bar will take him across
the hips and set him up in a way that he will not like. Repeat this
lesson several times, and you can break any horse to stop running back
when you say ‘‘ whoa.” Whenever training this horse, always stop him
when possible so if he runs back the hind end of break-sulky will
strike some tree or other solid object, so he cannot back if you say
‘¢whoa.” I have broke some of the worst horses of this habit in this
way. I never had one of my own training to form this habit, and I
place the reason for it, in not teaching them to back until through
with the other lessons ; he therefore does not learn to run back until
he has learned to obey the other commands.

sail ara Cd ali RR

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 45

Bad to Back.

After giving him lessons as for training colt to back, take position
as seen in illustration No. 23:

ILLUSTRATION NO. 23.

Have your horse standing on the floor with his head in the corner,
so he cannvt go ahead. Give a strong pull upon the lines and say
“Back”; then slacken up immediately. The great fault with most
people in teaching horses to back, they pull steady and hard on them,
and they get braced, and the horse being the stronger, the man cannot
move him back. If he has had his former lessons properly given, you
can back him. But after you have given each of these ways a fair
trial and do not succeed, as you might not if you had a sullen mustang,
you may pass the off line directly from the bit, or smothering nose
piece, back and up through a ring fastened on the back strap, just
back of the back pad over his back, and take in right hand as seen in
illustration No. 234:

46 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

iM [ree a
Wee
InnusTRATION No. 231¢.
r)

Now take the near line running directly from the bit to the left
hand. Stand by his near side and give a quick, strong pull on the off

_line, This will throw his head to the off side. Hold it there for an

instant, and at the same time hold steadily with the near line and
slacken away on both reins quickly, then repeat as at first by throw-
ing pis head to the off side and saying ‘‘Back” in a mild tone. By
repeating this, I never have found a horse of any kind I could no:
break in this way and educate him in a short time to back readily, by

gradually working away from the side you will soon be behind your

horse backing him all right.

The Horse that will not Stand while You
get In and Out of the Vehicle.

This habit can only be broken up by giving him a thorough lesson
in stopping and standing at the word whoa. Handle him thoroughly

with Edward’s Bridle. Pass the reins through the side rings or thill —
holders. Get behind him; switch the whip and let him start; cateh —

him rrond center poll and say ‘‘Whoa”. Rest and repeat, and when

he stands well, hitch him to the break sulky and make some noise in

getting in and if he tries to start, set back on the lines and say ‘‘Whoa”

and do not allow him to start until told. By repeating these lessons a

few times he will stand all right. If you hitch this horse up in the
barn a few times with the doors closed and have uim stand awhile
before starting, it will have a tendency to break him. If you fail
apply the break lines as described for runaway.

:

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 47

Afraid of Umbrellas, Robes, &c.

Place Edwards’ bridle upon the horse, as seen in illustration No. 8,
pull him to right and left until he gives readily to the pull of the reins.
Now, if he is afraid of buffalo robe, take a piece of an old one, fold it
up, take it under the’ arm and approach him ; let him see only a part
of it at first, and by gradually unfolding it, he will soon get so you can
throw the robe over his neck and back in full size. Handle the same
with paper or sheet, and tie a string to piece of paper and pull it
around his feet, so at any time if a paper should get under him, he
would not be frightened. Handle the same with an umbrella, etc., as
with robe, giving a pull upon the lines at any time he shows fear,

_ throwing his head toward the object he fears. In teaching not to be

afraid of baby carriages, ete., handle much the same, only approach
the object by degrees and have a long cord tied to the object, moving
it occasionally toward him until he will allow you to draw it up to him
without fear ; then lead him away, and back to it again, and graudu-
ally work away from the lead to a drive and you will soon be driving
your horse right up to the object he was afraid of. If he has ever
been badly frightened, it will take a little longer ; but it can be accom-
plished with patience and kindness. Hitch your horse to break-sulky
and flourish the robe over his back and around him until he shows no!
signs of fear; use the same with the umbrella, and when he shows
signs of fear, pull him back on the rope eross bar and hold him a short
time, rest, and repeat these lessons ; take time, and good results will
follow. Handle the same for horse that is afraid of whip, chains,
tin pails, ete. The man that takes no time to educate his horses and
colts and make them familiar with objects of fear, is liable to have
damage enough done in five minutes to pay for several years’ work. I
have seen over one thousand dollars’ damage done by a pair of horses
in five minutes.

Afraid of Top Carriage.

Handle the same as for horse afraid of umbrella ; handie with the
umbrella thoroughly, hitched to sulky ; then hitch to top-carriage
with top down flat, and when driving on the road, raise it part way ;
then after a time, raise it a little higher, and you will soon have your
horse so that he will not be at all afraid of a top-earriage with the top
clear up. At any time he should show signs of fear, move the bit in
his mouth a little, which will attract his attention, and he is a safe
horse to drive to top-earriage. It is advisable in some cases, and with
some drivers, to use blind-bridle for this kind of a horse. But be sure
and train with open bridle, and train; don’t half train any horse. If
you train him at all, make a clear case of obedience on the part of the
horse, and you will never regret it.

_air, to one side, and when he comes down, let up, and by repeated les-

48 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

The Plunger to Train.

He must be handled thoroughly with the Edwards bridle and bit, as
advised for bolting and side-reining ; drive him around you, and
switch the whip ; if he should rear and plunge, give him a determined — es
pull upon the rein toward you ; this will bring hii on his feet ; repeat ‘i .
and handle from the other side in the same manner. Nowhiteh him ~—
to break-sulky, and if he should plunge, do not say ‘‘whoa,” ortry to
stop him, but throw his head from one side to the other strongly, and
do not stop until he comes down ; then start him again. Hewill not .
try this many times, as no horse likes to have his head snatehed from
one side to the other many times with the combination bit, and he will
stop it. Try to get a good pull on him every time when he is in the

sons, you can break any plunger perfectly. If very desperate, the
trip-lines might be applied.

The Halter and Bridle Puller of Ma- 4
ture Age.

After giving him thorough lessons in leading and turning, asshown : wy
in illustration No. 8, you may place upon him the pulling rig, as shown oN
in illustration No. 24.

ILLUSTRATION No, 24.

As to halter-breaking a colt, work him to and from the pole (note
where the dotted lines are), piace a half-inch cord around his tail, and =
wove the rope from the girth to flank ; in most cases, this will break —

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 49

up the habit. Some horses, however, are quite cunning, and will not

pull until left alone, and then they will break loose if possible. They
eannot break this rig; but that is not the point wholly to be gained.
. The question naturally arises, ‘‘How can I stop him from pulling
on this rig?” This is the way: Fasten a cord to the Spr aonime nose
piece as seen in illustration No. 25:

vie
SY | \
ILLUSTRATION No. 25.

Draw up on the nose piece and drive him around the pole several
times. Then tie him with the pulling rig on, as shown in illustration
No. 24. You must tie him where you can run the cord that is fastened
to the smothering nose piece through a holein the shed or barn in front
of him, or get out of sight behind him, so he cannot see you but you
ecansee him. Watch him, and when he pulls draw hard enough upon the
smothering strap to stop his breath, and hold him there until he comes
ahead. If he should lie down, give him one breath, then shut it off
tight and he will get up. Every time he tries to pull, you pull on the
smothering strap and he will soon find out that pulling stops his breath
and that when he stops pulling, he can breath all right, There is no
horse in the world that cannot be broken in this oe if properly
handled. Ihave broken horses 14 years old of halter pulling in this
way, and have yet to find the first one I cannot break. Care and
judgement must be used in not smothering him to death; but of this
_ there is little danger, as he will make some frantic endeavors before he
will stand and suffocate. The person who has a bad puller, or a horse
that will not stand to be untied, will appreciate this.

: 50 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

: Bad to Shoe in Front.

If your horse rears, acts ugly, strikes, or kicks, use £dward’s Bri- fH
die as seen in illustration No, 5 several times until you get control of —

: tava
: (i his head. Then place upon him a good, stout leather girth, as shown a
thy in illustration No. 26, The one used for breaking will do, orthe back =—

pad of a good work harness. with some rings tied to the belly band.

To handie his front feet, place below his fetlock a good fitting strap, —
with a ring on it. Now buckle a line into this ring. Have him tied tet
with pulling rig on. Pass this ring through one ‘of the rings on the : nee
belly band. Touch his ankle with the whip and say ‘‘Take up”. He —
will take a step, and then you pull on the line and it will draw his. —
foot up tothe ring. Hold it there fora few seconds, then let it down
and caress him. If he should try to rear and strike, hold his foot, and
at the same time with the other hand give him a strong pull upon the
bit. (The bit can be placed upon any halter with two short straps to —
buckle on each side, and buckleslide loop stay to nose piece or the hal-
ter.) Repeat this and use from both sides the same, and you can. soon
teach any horse you ean handle his feet. If he struggles too hard, |
you can let his foot down, where, if it were strapped up, he would be apt _ i
to throw himself, and if he should lie down on the leg that was buckled
up, it would be almost impossible to get him up, as you would have to
roll him over before you could unbuckle his leg. But if you take po-
sition as shown in illustration No. 26 there will be no danger of this, ©

ge le A ee ee ee

ILLUSTRATION No. 26. vay S
and you are at a safe distance, and you can break any eolt or vicious
horse to have his feet handled. Approach him carefully, and with a
My stick strike his foot lightly until he offers no resistance to have it |
Ki handled and hit or scraped with the stick. Repeat a few times and heey
Ns is all right to shoe in front.

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. oil

Bad to Shoe Behind.

Use the Edwards Bit as shown in illustration of the bit, much the

_ same as in “Bad to Shoe in Front,” only you take a large ring, twist

his tail, slip the ring onto it and tie it so it will not come off, (If he is
a spike tail, you can tie the ring to a strap attached to the crupper)
Place the strap around his hind leg below the fetlock and buckle the

line to it and then run it through the ring tied to the tail. Tell him to

“take up”, and tap his ankle with the whip as before and you can hold
his foot with ease, as shown in illustration No. 27:

ILLUSTRATION NO. 27.

If he offers to kick, hold him and give him a strong pull upon the
Jine running to bit. By repeating these lessons a few times you will
be pleased to know how easy it is to handle a horse’s feet. You should
never handle a horse’s foot and mouth together,.as some horse would
kick so hard at first that ther would be great danger of doing much
damage to his mouth, and also of burning the ankles, and is apt to
cause scratches. Educate his head and then his heels, each one sepa-
rately. If a horse will take up one foot, it is no sign he will take up
another. So, to have a horse jerk upon his mouth with all four of his
feet, is not humane or practical. You can pull upon the line running
to bit as many times or as few times as you wish, and at the same time
handle the foot with the other hand. If the line was around his foot,
every time he jerked his foot, it would jerk his mouth ; and further-
more, | have seen the failure of one horse-educator trying to handle a
horse, foot and mouth together—that is, the line running from bit to
ankle-joint, and allowing him to kick upon it. The line was jerked
from the trainer’s hand several times, and the horse coming out winner
every time. If you liandle your horse’s feet as described in illustrations
Nos. 26 and 27, you will never hurt your horse, and never have any

trouble in handling his feet. This method can be used in the black-

smith shop, if necessary. (But it is far better to train the horse at

dome, so when you take your horse to have him shod, you will have
no trouble.) (A word to the wise is sufficient.) .

52 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

Crowding or Leaning in Stall. —
Place upon your horse Edwards’ bridle, tie him on barn floor with ‘a
pulling rig, as seen in illustration No. 28. ‘

ee ee sk

ILLUSTRATION NO. 28.

Get a little to one side and say ‘‘ stand over,” at the same time tap-
ping him on the ankle, and give a slight pull on the line on sauve side ;
this will have a tendency to make him stand over ; but if he offers to :
kick, or refuses to obey, take him sharply with the whip, and then __
throw his head to his side ; he wiil soon learn that he must stand over. .
If a sullen mustang and dangerous to handle, tie him with something
he cannot break, in two directions, then blindfold him, and take a
stick about five feet long—a hoe handle is good —and touch him lightly
upon the hip ; then press it lightly against his side, just back of his
front leg, and at the sarae time tap him on hip with the whip. —
As he cannot see it, he will yet over to get out of the way. He
will soon get over with the tap of the whip, as he will expect the ©
combination if he does not. You must step from one side to the other, —_—
as you wish him to stand over. After he stands over at the word
‘‘here” readily, take him into a wide stall and stand in same position;
teach him to stand over so that when the lessons of {wo or three days’
repetition are completed, he will stand over readily at slap of hand on
hip or at the word ; then at any time when you wish to go in the stall,
as he has been taught with the whip, you can take all willfulness out vs
of him with a switch of the whip. If you do not use the whip, how
are you going to get into the stall to get a bridle on him, if he refuses
to let youin? There is no other way to properly educate ahorseto
stand on his own side of the stall'and stay there. I have handled — Hy
stall-crowders that would as soon kill a man as not, and entirely broken _ 4 ri
up the habit in this way. This method is good to teach colts to stand, ian |

. . 6,

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over also.

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PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 538

Horse Afraid of Cars.

Place upon him the Edwards bridle, as shown in bridle illustration.

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Bis ¥ ILLUSTRATION NO. 29.

Give him repeated lessons in reining, as for side-reiner and shyer.
After he reins well, get behind him with reins running through rings on
sides, take a good whip with lash about fcur feet long and stalk four
feet, or convenient length, tell him to ‘‘get up,” and give him a light
: pull to one side and use the whip around his hind legs ; repeat this un-
til he will turn easily and quickly at touch of whip and slight pull on
ae rein. To get thorough control of the horse, you must have a fear of
a the whip and thorough control with the bit in his discipline, or you
never should attempt to get him near the cars. This will require in
most cases four or five days (if very bad). Now take two bundles of
q damp straw, place them in yard or lot, and lead him up to them ; then
: : place them 10 or 12 feet apart, light them with a match (have them
Be damp enough so they will not blaze), lead him up to them, around
them, and finally between them, until he will stand with the smoke
waving over his head and around him ; at the same time ring a bell,
blow a whistle or horn, and use this wen until he will stand quietly.
Now, if there is an engine in your neighborhood, or mill of any kind,
get them to fire up for you, and familiarize your horse with the steam
and whistle by degrees, hitched to break-sulky as seen in illustration
rig 30.

54 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

ILLUSTRATION NO. 30.

Then take him in field by cars ; do not try to get too close the first
day. Keep him moving about at a distance, and gradually work up to
the cars, and by occasionally stopping him and moving bit in his
mouth, you can in most cases teach him not to fear the ears. The
most prominent reason for most horses being afraid of the ears is that
the driver himself is afraid, and the horse takes on the same nature.
It is not possible to make some horses, particularly those of a very
nervous temperament that have never been accustomed to cars, stand
close to them, as it is not consistent with the laws of theirnature. But
I have yet to find a horse that I cannot handle to, the cars by this prae-
tice ; and in all ordinary cases, you will be successful handling in
this way.

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 55)

The Horse Bad to Harness.

Place upon him Edward’s Bridle, and take position as seen in
illustration No. 31:

¢ ILLUSTRATION NO. 381.

Use in this way until you get good contro! of the head, then take
the lines in one hand and the harness in the other and work the har-
hess gently about him, and if he makes an attempt to move, correct
him with the bit, and just as you throw the harness over his back, give
a strong pull on the lines. This will draw his attention to the bit and
you can educate him in a few lessons to stand all right while being
narnessed. You should not be in a hurry, or throw the harness on the
horse until he is thoroughly convinced that it will not hurt him; then
care should be taken not to irritate or scare him at any time, Take
the back pad of a single or light harness to commence with. After he
will allow you to throw this upon him without offering much resistance
you may take a heavy harness. Always place the bridle upon the
horse before trying to harness, until he is thoroughly educated.

Bad to Crupper.

‘The first thing to teach this horse is that he is not going to be hurt
in any way. This habit in most cases is caused by ignorant or careless
person placinz the crupper under the tail when the back strap was too
short, and when he dropped his tail, it hurt him, Always in placing
the crupper on, have the harness loose enough so the crupper will not
draw on the tail. Standing oa the near side you take the lines in the

56 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

left hand. Take hold of the horses tail and begin to raise it up and
pull upon it. If at any time he shows signs of kicking, give him the
bit sharply to let him know that you are not to be trifled with in that
manner, and repeat. Every time raise his tail a Httle higher until yoa

get it over his back. You may now brush his tail lightly on the under ~

side with the hand, and if at any time he tries to kick, correet him
sharply with the bit, and when he will allow you to handle his tail
without seringing, you may wind some cl th unon a smoth stick about
2 feet long aud commence by placing this under his tail. Do not pull
on the stick or try to remove it without first raising his tail. When he
will allow it under his tail without offering resistanee, you may place
upon him the girth and back strap and attach a erupper made as
follows: Take any buckle crupper and wind it with cloth until the size

of the one shown it, Ulustration No, 52 or larger—3 or 4 inches in di-
aineter.

ILLUSTRATION No. 32.

Or what is still better, one made as seen in illustration No. 32, of
good, soft leather, stuffed. Buckle this large erupper to the crup-
per strap and proceed to put it on him. Take the lines in the leit
hand. Raise left hand over his back and then raise his tail with the
right hand and take in same hand with the lines. The crupper should
now be lying on hisruinp. Take the crupper in the right hand and
earefully bring it around and place it under his tail, and if he offers to
seringe, correct hiin with the left hand. Buckle this crapper and leave
it on him over night, or at least 6 or 8 hours. This will make his tail
pliable and you can in a few lessons place the erupper on any
horse, providing you get up some fear of the bit. Unless you do you
eaunot inake a success of it. He must be made to know that the bit is
there to control him, even at a slight pull. There certainly is no

morse you cannot crupper in this way if you use patienee and good
judgment. .

The Horse that Hugs the Line.

ee Handle this horse the same as in ‘‘Bad to Crupper”, and after his
on tail becomes pliable by the use of the enlarged crupper, as seen in il-
. Justration No. 33, take position as seen in illustration No. I3:

*

ILLUSTRATION NO. 33.

Now drive him around the pole and gradually work the line up
under his tail, and if at any time he should scringe or try to hug the
— line, correct him with the other line at the bit. Drive him in this way
- until he will allow you to carry the line under his tail in any way,
_ chafing it up or down, and you will never fail in educating this horse
properly. At any time when he has been idle for a long time and
‘might show signs of hugging the line, place upon him the large crupper,
and he will remember as he was taught, that he cannot hug the line
with this on, and in a few days you can remove it and he will be all

oe yack, EE ee

AS ore ee

‘ SONY SOLA Ro oa

f

58 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL ©

The Switcher.

Place upon the switcher the large crupper ; make it stilllarger, if
necessary, to raise the tail somewhat. Leave this on for some time.
Be very careful not to irritate this horse to make him switch. If you
ean start him by a light pull upon the bit to one side, and he will not —
switch, start him this way. If not, try and find some way of starting, *
stopping, etc., that will not irritate, and he will not switch much.
If afraid of whip, keep whip still, only when necessary to use same. —
When about this horse in stable, take hold of the tail as you pass by ;
this will prevent the switching, and by careful handling, most young ~—
horses will not make bad switchers. Turn him carefully and slowly, ws
stopping occasionally, when educating, and he will improve.

The Old Confirmed Switcher.

This horse should be handled the same as switcher, and after keep-
ing the enlarged crupper on for some time, you may divide the tail ;
tie a ring in the end of each half (place collar and hames upon horse) ;
take about 16 feet of cord and tie to ring in tail on near side, pass it
through lower ring on hame on same side, then up through the upper
ring between the hames, or over the top of collar, down through up- mt
per ring and then lower one on off side, then back through ring on off — .
side of tail ; raise the tail up over the back draw-cord tight enough to
hoid tail down over the back and tie; pass the tree end under the belly
and tie to cord on opposite side ; draw this quite snug and it will hold
the tail down close to the back. Leave this on for three or four hours,
then take it off and leave it off six or eight hours ; then repeat, leaving
it on five or six hours. Try her for a day or two, and if she does not
improve, repeat each time, keeping it on an hour or two longer until
eured. If you leave this rig on, or keep the tail up 10 or 12 hours the
first time, as some theories recommend, the hair will fall out. If the
rings pull out, wind the knots around with string and tie. If the hair
is crinkled when you take the tail down, soak it in water for a few vide
moments and wash out, and it straightens. ‘To entirely cure the con- :
firmed switcher will take some time. 3 3 ee

v

The Fretter.

This horse is nervous and high-metaled ; be patient, mild and per-
severing with him. He will constantly danee or prance, with ap-
parently nothing to cause his uneasiness. He will try the patienee of
the most competent with the rein. If very much afraid of cars,edu-
cate him as horse afraid of cars as herein described. Now, after you

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 59

get up a moderate amount of ‘‘ give to the bit,” hitch him to break-
salky with blind or open bridle and Edwards’ bit adjusted as you think
will best suit him. Do not check him high; pass the lines back over
the seat; take hold of lines near the head, and walk along by his
near shoulder, and when he begins to fret, set back on bit and say
““steady ” he will soon walk. Now gradually work away from his

_ head, keeping lines in hand, and walk behind sulky. Soon you may
get on, and stop his fretting by repeating this. Be sure to steady him
with the word, and you can in most cases break it up. Do not hold —
aim too hard, and when you start out, if he feels well, let him trot a
good gait for a while, then steady him as before, and in most eases the
habit can be broken up all right.

The Colt or Horse Bad to Bridle.

Place upon him good stout girth and Edwards’ bridle, tie a ring on -
each side, to the girth, firmly, place a pair of single lines in bit-rings,
and run back through rings on each side, as seen in illustration No. 34.
(i your horse is tender bitted, buckle the lines in halter-rings.)

TLLUSTRATION No, 34.

Tf afraid of his ears and top of head, you can bridle him by tie-
_ inghim by the neck. Place bit in his mouth, unbuckie bridle at near
‘side, carry it up over ears, down on head, and buckle. If afraid of

Fe PNT ee AS ef re TLR WR eC aA tae ee Re ee

bridie without lincs and back him into stall narrow enoug ct
not turn around. (This horse should have had lessons in fo

is very high-headed, and you are.

stall to stand upon), and he will

bridle on. ' Every time he comes up and takes the belie, caress an
feed, and he will soon learn that it is best for him to take | the brid.
The lesson as shown in illustration No. 34 is effectual in all cases on:
where the horse is mature and inclined to be vicious, I have tau,
imany horses that were very bad in this latter way, to walk up and ta
the bridle, and you can do the same if you follow these few i it str

tions. Never strike him upon the head or ears. It is an excellent -

pages of this book for a horse to tales things and viek up thinge

you teach him to take one thing, he will take another, and soon 1
put his head down and take the bit and bridle by lightly pricking 1] i
just back of the elbow joint and commanding him to take the bit
(A word to ne wise.) .

Newarx, New York, October 25, 1880,

Profj@s i: Raqurds handled a mare for us that had been handled by prof :
sional horsemen who failed in training her to take the bridle. Mr. Edwards han-_
dled her one day, and she took the bridle in her mouth and carried it, also the
whip; and she would get down upon her knees and take the bridle.

T. WuitrLeton & Son, Prop’rs Newark Hotel. : Me:

Innustrarion Ne. 35.

ee ag or an unbroken colt, need to be put aneh moe reining Ge

ist"

62 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

{LLUSTRATION No. 36.

Rein him thorotighly for two or three days and then lead him into
a large box-stall ; place a box on near side of him and step upon it,
keeping hold of lines; gradually work the box up to him and steps
upon it, and pat him on the back ; then lay your right arm over his
back, lean against him, and you can soon take position as shown in
illustration No. 37.

WN

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP.

ILLUSTRATION NO. 37.

_ Move him a few steps, then stop, caress, and move him again } he
will soon waik around stall all right, In most cases, and with our na-
tive horses, this is all that is required, and by repeating, you can soon
ride your colt out into the yard, and then into the road, allright. If
heisan unruly mustang and liable to pitch and buck, pass a small rope
_ through ring or over draw-check, in place of leather check on crown-
piece, as shown in bridle illustration, then down and through off lever
on bit, from outside, then across nose through near lever, from inside,
and back through ring on crown-piece, then through check-hook, or to
saddle, and tie to the other end of cord for check. If this does not
eld his head up, place upon him wooden fork, as shown in illustration

/

ILLUSTRATION No. 38.
[In placing upon harness, tie to collar at i

(2 ON ee

ee andl rode them all mahi ina fot days. In the west, .
them ‘‘right from the word hg as ee call it.

in its eee If the rider is scoot the broneho or must ng
just as well as a native horse, and will try the harder next
northern gentleman that has never ridden a mustang
horse on earth can throw him, will have a good chance t¢
dexterity if he will mount a bucking mustang. I once]

re \ s

for)
Ov

‘PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP.

say he had been thrown only once, and then he went up so high he
was three days on his zrial voyage; but good luck seemed to await
him, for when he came down, he struck fair and square in the saddle
on the same mustang he rode three days previous.

To Get a Horse Up.

Wes If a horse should throw himself or lie down, and refuse to get up,

apply the smothering nose-piece, as shown in illustration No. 39, pull

upon strap running to nose-piece, and he will get up, as he cannot
breathe unless he does. Every time he lies down, shut his nose and
mouth up tight, and he will get up; then-immediately slack up and he
ean breathe. This is good for steers, mules and horses alike, and will
never fail, or injure the animal in the least.

ILLUSTRATION No. 39.

Tf he should take advantage of you and jerk and his head and
then catch his breath, you can get the best of him by running the '
smothering-strap or rope around pole, tree, or fence post, as seen in
illustration No. 39. I handled a horse onee that would ‘‘do this”: he

AP. fee Se.

—

et ee, ee ee et See

-

aS ee oe oe

66 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

would lie down, and when I held the smothering-strap, he would jerk
his head and catch his breath, and then refuse to get up. I poured 1
water in this horse’s nose, but he would swallow it as fastasI could —

pour itin. J attached 2 rope long enough to reach the fence and held
all the slack, when he proceeded to get up immediately, and never
tried to lie down after that. If there is no fence or tree near, drive a
small stake in the ground and wind the rope around this. Of course
this measure would only have to be taken in the most obstinate eases,
As I have said before, it is simple ; but I defy any man to bring a bet-
ter method for the cure of this or any habit where the animal gets in a
sulk. Some say, wait til#he gets over the sulk. But I have seen the

tline when I might have done this, and starved to death waiting—and ~

then he would not move or get up. You will find it, if properly ap-
plied, to be the greatest help that could be thought of, when its use is

rrequired ; you never will fail, and will be pleased to see the willing- i

ness of the sullen and obstinate animal to obey after its use. Like
the other controlling powers, this should be accompanied with kind-

‘ness and earessing after submission. Never burn the horse or pour —

water in his nose, as it is inhuman, abusive and dangerous. Keep
cool, and when your horse throws himself, stop his breath and he wili
get up, if it is possible for him to do so. A horse cannot get up if he
is checked up, or his feet. fast, or his back down hill or in a hollow.

= NOV 20 1608

THE BIT,

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 67

Lopping Out the Tongue.

For this I claim the eredit, as I think I can stop any horse from
lopping out the tongue, if I can handle him and apply the method
properly. Place upon the horse the Edwards bit, as shown in illustra-
tion No. 40, *

ILLUSTRATION No. 40.

{Showing the hollow pipe to be placed upon the joint bit when taken apart to make a
straight pipe bit for tender-bitted horses. Unscrew the joint bit at the center and drop
one end into the straight bit, then the other end, and you can see.to adjust by the slots or
openings in the straight pit ; or, the ring may be cut at the end of a common joint bit and
taken out, and by using a piece of small gas-pipe and thick leather washers, make a bit
like the one above by replacing the ring after placing the pipe upon the Fit. ]

Remove the extension center-piece, if on the bit, and place
upon the bit the pipe-bit, then take a piece of dental rubber or
rubber cloth of good quality (clear, pure gum) that will stretch well,
eut a small hole in the center of it, pleat the ends so they will be
stro..g, run a rubber cord through these pleated ends with a needle;
now run these rubber cords through the holes or slots in pipe-bit
doutle, and out of the ends each way, and tie to the bit-ring or bit ;
place the bit in the horse’s mouth, draw this rubber cloth out, put the
thuinb and forefinger of the left hand through the incision, and then
with the right hand take the tongue out under the bit and draw it
through the hole made in the rubber cloth, and let his tongue and the
rubber slide back in his mouth; he may possibly put his tongue out,
but the constant draw of the rubber upon it will soon take it back in
his mouth again, and the result will be that he will carry his tongue in
his mouth. The rubber will expand every time the muscles of the.

. tongue enlarges it, and therefore will not interfere with the circulation

oy
4
hy

a we

TM REAL Paes oll ich Win Yodo ih" ai ub
1 NN ck K in} ul 4 rs

68 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

of the blood. This piece of rubber cloth should be just alittle longer

than the tongue is wide and about 14 inches wide, and care should be _

{aken that the center is in the center of his mouth, so it will not draw
his tongue to one side. It will not interfere with his drinking, and if
not too wide, will not keep him from eating. Of course the size must
be governed by the quality of the rubber and size of the horse’s
tongue. If the rubber is first-class, it can be quite small and still hold;
the strain is not very great, and he cannot get it between his teeth, nor
chew tke cord off, as it is inside the pipe-bit. Some might prefer all
rubber cord, but I like the rubber cloth best, as it has always done the
work well forme. (Some may say, ‘‘it is too much bother,” ete. I
seldom pay any attention to remarks of this kind, and it will be found
characteristic of most horsemen not to waste time talking with a fault-
finder. If the trainer guarantees satisfaction and does not deceive, the
owner is secured ; and you should hesitate before criticising too close-
ly. Those who make such remarks are generally too indolent to ac-
co:nplish anything by their own efforts, and embrace every opportunity
to find fault with those who are successfui and energetic. )

If the horse is a tough-bitted fellow, you can tie the rubber cord
to the bit-rings after passing through holes at joint in center, and leave
extension center piece and side-levers on. The sale of many a good
horse has been lost simply because he lopped out his tongue. You may
make any change in this arrangement you wish, but do not use any-
thing except rubber about the tongue, as it will stop the circulation
and the result would be bad.

To Train the Horse that Rides or
Leans on the Tongue.

This is a very bad habit, and the horse that does this, I have no
faith to believe, can be trained well in any other way than with break —

sulky. made as described in former pages. Now make a long evener or — “4

double tree and bolt to break-sulky thills, with single tree fastened to
some part, and hitch the leaner to break-sulky, with a good stout
double harness on and single lines; then take horse No. 2 and place
by side, with double or cross lines on; attach the same to bits, as
though you had no single lines on the Jeaner, place all the lines back
across the sulky seat, hitch the gentle horse to the long evener, which
should be long enough to place them far enough apart so the leaner —

cannot crowd against horse No. 2 (you may place a horse each side if — ‘it
-you wish); get on the break-sulky, take the double lines in hand and

sit on the single lines; start them up, and the leaner or tongue-rider .

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 69

will find no horse to Jean against or tongue to ride; as they ride on the
tongue or thill, they carry their own weight, and if they go down they
cannot break the thills, if they are made strong enough. Correct him
with the single lines as he attempts to lean on the thills. Drive in this
way until they will drive well, then place the gentle horse on the other
side and drive the same, turning around both ways slowly, stopping
often; caress and repeat; and there is no tongue-rider that will not give
up the habit in a few days; at leasf, I have never found one I could
not train in this way. Hitch and drive this way until he drives well.
‘(He should, however, have been driven enough single previous to this
to make a good reiner of him whiie hitched to a break-sulky; then

hitch them to a team wagon, and if he tries it again, place him right
back in the break-sulky, give him a thorough lesson, and then if you
hitch to team wagon you will see, if the training has been thorough,

that the leaner or tongue-rider has given up the old habit and drives
all right.)

Tossing the Head.

Some horses have a very unpleasant notion of throwing the head
up, and will at times raise up off the ground with one front foot, then
Z0 a little ways and do the same over again. Some may thiuk this is a
nice thing for a horse to do, but a good horseman will not pay as much
for a horse that does this as he would if he did not. To break up this
habit, youma use Edwards’ bridle once or twice, if he is hard on the
rein, and then place harness upon him and hitch to some light vehicle,
_if he is well trained; now take a small strap (a light hame strap is
good), pass it cer between billets on lower end of check pieces
where they buckle into the bit, over the nose and buckle under the
chin; now fasten a strap to this and tie to belly-band. This is a stand-
ing halter martingale, and when he tries to throw up his head and raise
up off the ground, he is caught by the nose by this strap, and soon
jearns that he cannot do it. I have tried this and it will work every
time on a horse under saddle or hitched to carriage. where a standing
martingale hitched to a bit would, if his mouth were tender, make him
jerk his head, and then he would keep on jerking and appear very
awkward. He should be checked up moderately, then watch him, and
as he goes to toss the head, tap him with the whip and give a light pull
to one side; this will have a good effect. This habit is formed. in many

eases, by too high checking and tiresome drives.

EDWARDS’ PRACTI CAL

ra

To Make Team Put Even upe
Reins.

If you have a horse that will do it all, and one that |
should, and inclined that way strongly; that is, one that
sition exactly opposite from the other, they cannot be dri
and nicely. If you can do this, you can outdo me. N
it cannot be done. But I have seen many teams that were
matched and looked a great deal alike, but they seemed to ha e

bia

trained by different methods. One of them will take the bit nd seer

been differently trained, and is not on the watch fe somethin

him, but is a clever appearing horse. u
gether and drive nicely, take the most nervous and Sane tr ined 0
into the training yard and hai.dle with Edwards’ bridle a few
shown in illustration No. 41.

lesson, ‘‘ Afraid of Whip, Robe, ” re to teach him Her is not.
hurt. Now place upon him bridle and harness, pan, take pi sit
seen in illustration No. 42. he

VELUSTRATION No. 22.

mM , and he. an soon stand at the switch of the ap. Now take
a the a : one on barn floor or in yard, and place upon him the check-
ir ue as sho oe in illustration No. 48.

Yja24 EDWARDS” PRACTICAL

ILLUSTRATION NO. 43.

Now chirrup, switch tie whip, and if he does not start. step upto hima
and give him the whip around his hind legs; if he jumps at your com-

ing, place blind bridle and lines upon him, switeh the whip, and use if

upon hint sharply until he will move lively when told gr at switeh of
whip. This will make him drive up on bit, and by placing Edwards’
bit on him and adjusting the pipe-bit, he will drive up on it wel. On
the other one, use the bit with side-levers and slide-loop in a position
that will hold him pleasantly, and by a few lessons, this team will be
wonderfully improved, and you can sell them for a mucl better price
than before.

Prema

>

=

i‘
oN

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 73

The Fence J umper.

One of the first things to-do is to make a good substantial fence.
Some horse will even jump over this. To prevent this, you must have
two good-fitting straps made, lined with sheepskin, with short wool on
to keep from chafing legs. Let the end of the lining, which should be
sewed on thin leather, lap by, so the buckle will not chafe the leg.
Buckle one around the off hind leg above gambrel joint; have a ring,
O or D, put in between the lining and strap, a little back of buckle.
Now take the other strap wade like this one, only a little smaller, and
buckle around the near front leg, above the knee; take a good soft-

paded girth and tie a ring (or small pulley) under the horse, pass a

strap or small sized rope through this, and buckle or tie to the ring in

. strap on each leg. See Illustration No. 44.

ILLUSTRATION No. 44.

Notr—Always use this leg harness in case you have no stout, break sulky for:

any horse that is inclined to kick single or double. Placing it upon'the hind leg
that comes inside or next tothe tongue when hitched double, placing one on
each leg when hitching single.

This appliance can be used for keeping colts from kicking. While
trotting, they can trot just as fast with it as without it, but cannot run.
The strap must be adjusted so that it is not too loose or too tight,
as you may determine by careful observation. No poke to wear off

the main or injure the neck; no clog to hurt his legs; no fetters to

rT a Lae ee

74 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

hold him so he cannot get out of the way if he is mastered by other __
horses; no blindfold to impair his sight and make him stumble and
fall down; no brads to cut his throat; no barb-wire fence to mangle Foie)
nnd ruin him. You will find this to be second to no other device to
stop a jumper. t

I have heard of punching holes in the back side of the ears, and tieing them
back by passing a soft string through the holes after they were healed up. This
will stop them, as no horse will jump unless he can throw his ears forward, to see
where he is going. This, I think, would be better for sheep or cattle. I have
tried it on jumping sheep, and it worked to perfection. Tie the ears back to- -
gether. On a cow, tie the ears to the opposite horn.

For Changing the Way of Going.

You may use another set of straps like those in Illustration No. 44,
place them upon the other two legs the same, and your horse cannot
kick when hitched to a light vehicle. He can trot, but cannot break
orrun. Then by placing them upon him straight (as it were)—not to
cross them, but pass them direct from the near hind leg to the near
front leg (see dotted lines in Illustration No. 44), and from the off hind »
leg to the off front leg, you can make your horse pace. Pass a strap
over his back, with two rings upon it to keep the leg harness up; that
is, place two rings on stout surcingle and buckle around horse inidway
between back pad and crupper, and pass straps running from hind leg
to front leg through these rings, one each side respectively. He cannot

“kick. Much care must at this time be taken not to have these straps
too loose or too tight. Adjust carefully, so as to allow the horse to go
the gait you wish to teach him, easily; or, in other words, not to
shorten his stride. In speeding, rubber may be used in place of rope.

Stallion Bad to Manage and Control
While Using to Cover.

Many owners of stallions lose money by not having their stallions
properly educated and trained to come out and act pleasant and man-
ageable. Men are afraid to take a mare to this horse because he is so
unmanageable. This is no wonder; for he is dangerous, and in. many
cases, limbs have been broken and men killed by a vicious stallion. I
had a man once dare me to go in the stall with a vicious stallion. I
said how do you handle him? He replied, we don’t handle him. I

i ciauleowa iggy Wena Ce

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 75

promised to handle this horse, and proceded as follows: I provided a
good rope about 30 feet long, and a very light ten-foot pole. I knew
by what I had seen that this stallion was treacherous and ugly (he
had ran away, would kick, bite, etc.,) and this pole and rope would
be neened to halter him. Drive two nails into the end of this pole,
just far enough apart to lay the rope between, let six feet of the rope
hang down from the end of the pole, with a loop at the end; then tie
the rope to the pole, about four feet from the end, with a small string;
then pass the free end of the rope through the leop on the other end,
and draw it up, and it will form a snare (as it were,) and then you can
reach out with the pole while at a safe distance and get the snare over
his head. A knot can be tied in the rope above the loop, so it cannot
slip up and choke hizi. This I did to get him fast; then pull upon the
pole and rope, and the rope slips up around his neck and he is haltered
around the neck. I then proceeded totie him sliort, place bridle upon
him and handle as follows: With the leading purchase as shown in
Illustration, No. 45. (You can halter a wild mustang or colt this way
easily after you gét him into an enclosure.)

ILLUSTRATION NO. 45.

], worked him to the right and left thoroughly, left him tied and fed
him and watered him like any horse, I gave him three lessons of 30

Jeng « eee yeu
pe Ry Rg LEY le

SS

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SSeS 5 es Dame:

= aa oe +

76 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

minutes each as shown in Illustration No. 45, and then let him rest,
and placed upon him the harness and lines as seen in Illustration No.
46.

ILLUSTRATION NO. 46.

I used in this way the same three times, gave him an idea he must
keep off from me, and keep his head up and his heels down. I took
particular pains to show him I was a friend when he obeyed. I then
handled his feet as described in Illustrations Nos. 26 and 27, and I was ~
ready to place upon him harness and lines as shown in Illustration
No. 47.

ILLUSTRATION NO. 47. ;

Drive him around and set back on lines, and say ‘‘whoa,” and he ~

will stop; then if he refuse to go, draw up the line, stand a little to one
side and in front, and throw the line sharply forward, and he will gen-
erally start; if he does not, place upon him smothering nose-piece, as
directed for balker, and he will start; then take positiou as shown in
Illustration No. 48. . r

eae, tee eS ee) ee

yey
Kae

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 77

ILLUSTRATION NO. 48. :

Switch the whip, start him up and catch him around pole and hold
him. Every time you set back on the lines, say ‘‘whoa,” and if he
don’t stop, take the advantage by pulling your lines around the center
pole, until he will mind the word *‘whoa,” well; then you may_ hitch
him to brake sulky, as shown in Illustration No. 49.

ILLUSTRATION No. 49.

Drive him about on the sulky, using him much the same as colt,
only never allow yourself to get out of place; in other words, don’t
trust him at all. I have known stallions at the age of 12 or 14 to kill
men and horses by kicking, that had always been handled and shown
no signs of kicking. After ke will drive well, you may drive to light
wagon. He is now worth much more than before, being educated,
and is not hurtin the least. Any stallion will do a better business,
being trained to,drive; and if very valuable, so much the more
need of being trained. If you paid $1,000 for a horse, you should train
him better than one that only cost you $100.

se Soh
ee Jere ae

78 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

You may now place upon him bridle and lines, as they should be
used to cover in first lessons, as seen in Illustration No. 50. St RI

See
*

— ee er

oe

ILLUSTRATION NO. 50.

s

If he gets in a hurry, you can easily set him back by pulling upon
both lines. If he tries to rear, you can soon convince him he is under
your control by giving strong pulls upon the near rein. You will never
have any trouble in training your stallion, no matter how vicious and
eonfirmed he may be in his habits, if you follow these instructions,

r

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:

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To Break Up the Habit of a Stallion
Whinnering, or a Jack Braying,
While on the Road.

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it Place upon him smothering nose-piece, and attach a cord or line to
a rings on strap that passes over nose-piece, and as he makes an attempt
Ne to whinner or bray, draw the smothering strap tight. This will cause
a a very unpleasant sensation in his nostrils and head and break up the
bee habit in a short time. As you draw upon the cord or line that works
by the smothering nose-piece, tap him with the whip and say ‘‘I, I,” or
x ‘‘stop,” and he will stop; and it will be much pleasanter to drive him
bit upon the road for pleasure or business. While the business of attend-

a ing to astallion is considered by some as not being honorable, allow

# ‘me to point out the fact that there is no man that can choose a more ;
\ honorable way of employing his time than improving and perfecting a 4

ht race of animals so useful and valuable as The Horse. f

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PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 79

To Break Colt From Sucking the Tongue.

This habit is caused (some say) by weaning the colt at the wrong
time. I have, however, known old horses to suck the tongue, and if
allowed to continue, they will lose flesh and will not thrive on the same
amount of food that they would if they did not have the habit. To
eure the colt or horse of this habit, place the pipe-bit upon the main
bit and atiach a short piece of light chain to the holes in bottom of
bit, by means of a wire or string, and then place it in his mouth. He
will be trying to remove the chain with his tongue, and if he tries to
suck upon it, (as it were), the hollow bit will allow air to pass into the
mouth, and as he ean not form an air-tight vacuum with his mouth,
he ean not suck the tongue and will give il up, after ae the bit a
few times, even if there is no chain attached.

Speeding Young Colts.

It seems to some observers, and is said to be by some horsemen
wrong, to trot or speed the yearling or two-year-old, and is said by
some to have a strong tendency to produce weaklings, unsound and
unthrifty offsprings from colts so trotted or trained to speed while so
young. Yet it should be taken into consideration, that a thrifty colt
will of his own accord at times go through the most violent exercise,
running at the top of his speed around the field again and again.
Now, if this same colt should trot a quarter by the side of another horse.
or alone, how ean it hurt him. It will not, if good judgment and care
are taken; and the colt may ‘be ready to command a fancy price, while
yet quite young, for the speed he shows as is the case with H. M. Littel,
Esq., of Macedon, N. Y., Dr. Day, of Waterloo, N. Y., and others, some
of their colts showing such remarkable speed that they were sold for
figures up in the thousands at one year old.

To Keep Horse from Getting Cast in
Stall Without Tieing His Head up.

Place upon him well paded leather girth, and get two wooden bowls,
turned from soft, light wood (basswood or cottonwood is god, which
should be dry); they should be about 10 inches across the large side in
width, and then round down egg-shape to about seven inches in length.
Strap these to the girth with straps made from good leather; by mak-
ing two small mortices in each side of each bowl, and four holes
through each side of girt; the upper holes should be made a little be-

. low where the line terret is fastened on, and the others where the lower

edge of the bowl comes. Now pass the straps through the mortices in

EG aT te ae ee ee

80 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

the bowls and then through the girt and then out through the girt ard — ap aye

bowl, and buckle. The bowls can be turned and covered with leather
and will be very light, and can be put on with girt in the winter to
keep blanket on, and in summer can be used without any blanket. |
This will keep a horse from rolling, as the bowl] will strike the floor or
wall and he ean not roll; even if in a box stall he ean not roll upon his —
back, or get cast, but can lay down on his side with bis head at ease
or tied in any way you wish. Te bowls can be made larger or small-
er, as you like; but for ordinary cases, the ones described will do. If
very bad, you can lower the bowls on his sides a little. and have them
a little larger. A small-sized buiter bowl, which can be obtained at
any hardware store, will do, but the ones mentioned above are better.
To make this plain to you, 1 will have it engraved. See Illustration —

No. 51.

ILLUSTRATION NO. 51.

The old way of tieing up a horse’s head, from the crown-piece of the
halter, or from each side, had a tendency to chafe the face, and while
lieing down, the throat-latch would ent his throat, and in many cases
did not prove effectual unless the horse was tied so he could not lie
down naturally. With this appliance he can lie down flat upon his
side and sleep, but can not roll upon his back. It is best to bed this
horse with sawdust or shavings. Turn him out every day where he
ean roll, and groom at night, and he will not be as apt to try and roll —
in the night. As the rolling is sometimes caused by itching or irritation —
of the skin. (Give cleansing powders.) (See recipes.)

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PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 81

The Rearing Horse.

The surest and best way to stop this is to hitch him to something he
ean not rear with. This is the brakesulky with the rearing preventive
on back end of sulky. The thills are straight, with no joints, and by
attaching a good stout stick to the hind end, as the front end comes
up, the hind end goes down, and if this stick is there, it will strike the

ground and he can go up no farther. If heis an old chronic rearer,

he should be thoroughly bridle and rein handled first, asin lessons for
colt; then hitch to sulky, as seen in Illustration No. 52.

ILLUSTRATION No. 52.

Some horses will not rear only when hitched to some kind of vehicle,
then they will try and see how high and straight they can stand up.
Now start him up and stop him, or drive him to field track or road, or
wherever he tries to rear, and stop him, and when he tries to rear, he

_ will find out the rearing cannot be done. He may hop up alittle, and

while he is trying to do this, throw his head to one side with bit, and
touch him with whip, and say ‘‘whoa,” and if he has had the other
lessons given properly, he will stand. Tie the rearing preventive with
some cord, or fasten it on with a clevy, soit cannot swing out of place,
and you will never fail to break any horse to stop rearing and cause
him to stand stil!. Ifin the winter season, and there is plenty of snow
on the ground, you can teach him hitched to breaking sleigh, with
trip-lines on front feet, as described for desperate runaway, and every
time he goes up on his hind feet, pull on trip-lines, which will bring
him down with his nose in the snow, and he willsoon stop it. Do not
pull hard back on the bit on a rearing horse, as it is liable to pull him
over backwards. Hither of the ways I have described will do the

‘work, but I prefer the former, of sulky with preventive on. The

breaking sleigh should be made as seen in Illustration No. 53.

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i 82 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

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InuustRration No. 53.
To construct this sleigh, take any hind bob or short sleigh (the shee
er the better,) and make thills similar to sulky thills, only shorter ;
some old wagon-tire will do for the crooks. Bolt this on and have two
eyelets made to hold them to roller; take 1 and 4 inch plank for cross-
bar (good timber,) and let two of the bolts on each side that hold thill- _
irons pass through it; get a good strong dry-goods box, the proper
size, like the one shown in Illustration No. 53, and fasten to the bob
or sleigh, and you have a breaking sleigh that no horse ean break. It 23
should not be over three feet long, as it will turn much easier. A *
great many men think when in the winter there is plenty of snow, they
can break their colts hitched with an old horse. Now suppose these
men lived where there was no snow-fall, or did not have an old horse,
they would have to change localities, buy or borrow an old horse, ete.
More colts are spoiled by being driven with old horses than are ever
benefitted; he is not thoronghly broken until he will drive well single,
and here is where most colts have their first trouble, and if your colt is
never trained single, do not blame him when he turns around, tips you
over, or for any other unruly action. He is not to blame.

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To Stop a Horse from Biting or Tear-
ing Blanket, Cribing, or Biting
While Grooming =:

Place upon the horse a good five-ring halter, with rings on check
straps—that is, a halter that has rings on each side of check; now take x
two pieces uf white pine or basswood board, about four inches wide, 4
inch thick and one foot long, make four holes about two inches from
one end and two inches apart, round the corners, fasten a piéce of
leather, (a boot-leg is good) across and to the underside of the two
pieces of boards with leather string; place it upon horse with leather
under chin, and tie boards to rings on halter and above rings with __
good strings; the leather should not run up far enough to interfere
with chin-piece on halter, which chin piece should not be very loose.

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PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 83

_ If this is properly made and adjusted, there is no horse that it will not
stop of the habits which it is intended for. As he turns his head
around, the side-pieces stop him from biting his sides, and the leather
on the bottom stops him from reaching his breast, and they project so
he cannot get hold of anything to crib and he cannot bite while being
groomed, yet he can eat hay and drink, and only has to be removed
while eating grain. You can have the side-pieces covered with leather
if you wish. (I have heard of tying a block of wood in a horse’s
mouth. This is simply larbarous, as it is a constant punishment; he

~ cannot eat or drink, and is tortured constantly.) If a horse could
talk, you can imagine what he would say in regard to this block of
wood. I think he would say (‘‘it is infernal.’’)

Kicking or Pawing in Stall.

This can be stopped by having a good-fitting strap made, with a
piece of stout rubber tape in the middle, so it willstretch. If necessary,
you can use the rubber tape double, to make it stout enough. Now
fasten to this a ring, and to the ring a piece of light trace-chain about
one foot long. For kicking, buckle around hind leg above hock joint.
For pawing, buckle around front leg above knee. This will not chafe
the leg, as the rubber will stretch, and when he tries to paw or kick
the chain will strike his legs and he will not try it many times. Let
him get accustomed to it before you leave him, and by buckling it
above the knee, he will not step on it. Let the chain be on the inside
of the leg.

Bits---"The Use of.”

There have been many bits invented, the number reachiug far into
the thousands, every one thinking he has the best. I do not claim my °
bit the best but I am willing to forfeit $100 that there is not another
bit in the world, at the present time, that will compare with it for
practical use or for horses of different dispositions and bit-taking, and
for training, speeding, and all places wherea bit is needed. What you
have wanted is a bit for all kinds of horses and mouths. Here it is.
Buy it, and try it.

While upon this subject, I would say that if you have a runaway or
a kicker, do not think that if you buy one of these bits, take it home
and place it upon your horse and hitch him to earriage, that he will
behave and not try torun or kick. The man that says he has a bit
that gains instant control and removes all fear, is a humbug, while
you get control quickly and with less irritation with this bit than with

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84 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

others. I know that the rogue or viscious horse must have repeated - Pe a
lessons of training and get up a fear of the bit, sohe dare not run or
kick when you move the bit in his mouth or pull upon it. Geta good
“‘steady” and a ‘‘dead certain” ‘‘wnoa” on him before you try to drive
him, and keep the bit adjusted properly, and you cau menage him. If i,
properly adjusted it will never cut the mouth inside or outside, if the
teeth are floated and used with levers. And it is placed upon the
market with an_assurance of being second to none.

To Teach a Horse to Stand Upon Street _
Without Being Tied, )

Hiteh him to sulky, buckle lines together (with blind bridle,) —
tie a long cord to lines so it will pull evenly upon them both, get out
of sight, and if he starts, pull hard, then slack; say not a word; if he
starts again, pull harder and show him something has got him. After
a few lessons, he will stand and not offer to stir. Do not feed him ap-
ples or other things, as a passer by might be eating an apple and he ~—
would start after him to get the apple. He must be taught only as
above, to be reliable, and then it is not entirely safe with the majority
of horses.

To Get Up to Horse Bad to Catch in
Pasture. .

Place upon the horse a good five-ring halter, tie a long cord to it—
the longer the better, say 1000 feet—take a few hairs of the main, rub
on some shoemaker’s wax, tie a knot in this and divide it above the
knot and pass the cord through and back to the tail, and fix it the 5
. same here by taking a few hairs about six inches from the roots of the .
tail, pass the cord through and let it drag. This is done to keep the
horse from stepping on the cord, or getting wound upinit If he has
no main or tail, you can place upon him well-paded girt and crupper,
and tie a ring to the ecrupper and girt, and run the cord through these
and tie to halter or bridle. Take a dish of oats, go to the pasture lot
and proceed to get upto your horse. If he is very bad, it would be
well to have bridle on him for afewdays Get hold of the cord,
shake the dish of oats, and keep advancing. He will see you have al-
ready caught him, and will come up to you, and after a few days he |
can be caught without the cord on, if you feed him the oats every
time you catch him. If he should start off when you pick up the cord, ,
give him light pull to let him know you have got him. Dy

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PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 85

_ Educating the Horse for Pleasure Driv-

Ing,

There are a great many ways to ae horse the same thing. It is
supposed by many that there are but few horses that can be educate !
to perform tricks and drive without reins. Any horse of ordinary in-
telligence can in time be taught all this, if he gets the proper idea of
what is wanted of him, applied according to the laws of his nature.
But I am aware that there are many men, after receiving the best in-
structions any one could give, could not become successful trainers.
Such men make the profession like a setting hen without eggs (bring

_ forth nothing.) The rules which are laid down in this book will often

be deviated from without having any knowledge of it myself. From
not understanding the meaning, or carelessly studying the instructions,
you will not obtain the desired result, and blame me for it. Some
iman may havea horse with blind staggers, and if he finds no remedy
in this book, he throws it aside and feels in his heart a desire for some-
thing that cannot be obtained.

The Pleasure Horse.
In selecting a pleasure horse, get one (that ‘‘fills the bill.”) He

- should have a mild, gentle disposition, (peaceable and quiet,) and bold,

fine action, and intelligent. He will not deceive you after he is prop-
erly educated, and will make a fine appearance when on exhibition.
N. B. ‘‘in order to make the lessons I am about to give effectual, it will
be necessary to give one or two each dayin a continued number of days,
to form a perfect habit of obedience.” Please remember this.

The cut represented in engraving No. 54 is a bridle which is always
to be used when the horse is through with the lessons laid down in
former pages.

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ILLUSTRATION NO. 54.

This bridle can be used as an open bridle, or by taking out the check
pieces and placing in a pair of blinds (which will be necessary at times).
You wil] then have a bridle at all times that will give you satisfaction,
and be ornamental as well as useful. You may not notice that there
are several light bulges or swells in an overdraw check, well down on
the nose, so when the slide loop is pulled down over this, it will stay
without being tied with a string, ete.

Training to the Whip, or First Lesson to
Make a Colt Follow at Snap of
Finger, or Word “Here.”

This is a very important lesson and should be given in all cases
where the colt or horse is to be made a trick horse. I often give this

more in the same amount of time than you can teach them with any

lesson in training as the very first lesson, as it educates them much ©

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PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 87

other practice, nature and disposition that will allow it, and trainer
eapable.

Take the colt into a box stall of medium size, place upon him Ed-
ward’s bridle and take position as in illustration No. 55.

ILLUSTRATION NO. 55.

Take a short whip, step up to his near side, take hold of the reins
and pull slightly and at the same time cluck, and tap him over the
hips. He very likely will take a step or two in yourdirection. Caress
him and repeat. Soon commence to snap the finger, at the same time
touch him with the whip, and he will follow readily. Now takea
longer bow top whip, get a little ways off and snap the finger. If he
comes, caress him and repeat. Every time he comes to you, caress him
and let him stand; donot drivehim away. As you have taught him to
come by the use of the whip, if you strike him to make him go away,
you spoil it all. Now place light open bridle ai.d one leading rein upon
him and practice in the same way. After two or three days’ training
i in this way, you should turn him in small yard with good, high, tight
i. fence, or on barn floor with plenty of straw and light. Let him walk
around you untill he gets well acquainted with the place, then eom-
mence by cracking your whip directly over his back. If you have
never used a long lash, procure a good light one and practice with it
until you can handle it well.

Place your eye upon your colt, or horse, and keep it there, and as
he takes a position with head partially towards you (see illustration
Wo. 554), swing the long lash carefully around and give him a light

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ILLUSTRATION No. 55 1-2. athe

touch on the hind ankles. He will in most cases take a step or two
in your direction (all this time keep one hand up or out straight, an |
snap the finger or cluck). As he makes an attempt to come in your
direction, advance carefully to him and caress him, then step back,
and as he takes another favorable position, snap the finger, and if he
does not come, touch him lightly with your agent, Mr. Persuader, and
you will be well pleased with your success, as he will follow like a good
fellow and try his best to do each little thing you ask of him, like
-coming up and having the halter and bridle on, ete. *Thiscan be done
without the bridle handling if you are patient and persevering. That
is to turn your horse into an inclosure and proceed with the long lash.
Whip as above mentioned, whether he has ever been haltered or not.
Another way is: As your colt stands with his head from you, or
heels towards you, tap him ‘tightly around hind ankles with the lash,
and as he turns, walk up and caress him. If he does not turn, stop a —
moment, walk up and caress him, then step back and pop the whip at
his hind ankles untill he turns. Then go to him and caress him. He
will soon learn to follow you about at the snap op the finger, you then

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PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 89

‘have him under your control without any bridle on, and should be able

to control him with bridle and whip both. While teaching your colt
this, have him entirely alone. Allow no one to come in the training
yard or barn, as it will draw the colt’s attention and have a tendency
to confuse him. Watch your colt closely, and at any time he shows
signs of obedience, Jike tossing the head or throwing his ears ahead and
looking at you. step up and caress him. If you should strike him at
this point, it would be the worst thing you could do. I took a mus-
tang and ina few minutes taught her to follow me out into the yard
and road without anything upon her, after she had run away several
times.

Marron, N. Y. September 2d, 1888.

§ Mr. C. L. Edwards trained one eight-year-old kicking mustang for me, and I
was Surprised to see Mr. Edwards hitch and drive her to light wagon. She was
very hard-to back. Mr. Edwards made a good reiner and perfect backer of her
and she gained in flesh all the time. Martin LANDON.

To Educate a Horse to Drive Without.

Reins.

- Take your horse in box stall about 14x14. Takea straight whip, (a
whale bone whip with the top broken off is good,) and tie a lash about
three inches long. Drive a small wire nail through where the lash is
tied on, and one also through the butt end. Stand to one side and tap
him lightly on the side a few times and if he does not put his head
around toward the whip, touch him with the point of the nail in either
end of the whip and he will turn his head that way; then step up and
earess, and by a little practice he will soon turn around after you and
the whip. Let him rest and next give him a short lesson upon the
other side in the same way. After he will turn readily in this way, which
will take two or three days in most cases, you may take him in yard
with lines and bridle on and get behind, a little to one side, and tap
him the same as when first teaching. Work him in this way until he
will turn readily to the right or left at the tap of the whip. If he
should start io leave you, let him know you have got him with the
reins. Now commence to teach him to start. Change this whip and
take « good long whalebone one in its place , nine feet is not too long.
Stand direetly behind him and give the whip a little crack over: him
and toueh his back and ecluck, he will soon learn to start at the switch
over his back. Stay behind him. Hold the whip directly over his

back when you wish him to go straight ahead; to stop him tap him

lightly over the head between the ears and set back on the lines. Re-
peat this and as you drive him along, tap him on one side and the
other, always pulling that way on the rein, and quite strongly to let

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ILLUSTRATION NO. 56.

illustration No. 56. Take him on barn floor or where he cannot’
get away and drive him around, stopping often by the tap of the —

whip on the head. Turn him one way and the other by the tap of the
whip on his sides. If he should refuse to stop at the tap of the whip
on the head, tap him over the nose with it until he stops; then caress

him. After he will work well this way hitch him to vehicle with lines fi
and open bridle (ILL. No. 564) and commence by giving him the les- _

sons as at first. When he steps off to the right or left at the tap of the
whip, take him into a field and practice him. If he should attempt to
get away, strike him with the whip around the ears; and, if he runs,
stop him with the whip if possible, if not, use the lines and, sharply
at the same time, tap him\with the whip over the head to let him know

that by it and it alone he must be governed. Never take the lines off

until he will turn very readily, and trot, run and stop at the tap of the
whip. You may take the bridle off next and place a pair of lines upon

him attached to his front ankles by two good fitting straps around his .
front fetlock joints, with rings on. Then buckle a good pair of lines _

to these, pass them over the girth and back to break-sulky, and take

-him to a sandy place or in a plowed field where there willbe nochance _

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of hurting him. Now, start, stop and turn him. If he aets clever, — bee

earess him. He will act and feel uneasy without a bridle on, and you —

must use much patience and kindness. Have some oats and apples in
your pocket and feed him occasionally—it will help very much te draw

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PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 91

InLusTRATIoN No. 561.2.

his attention to youand have confidencein you. Hold the whi p directly
over his back. When you wish him to go straight ahead. tap him on
the back. Start him up, and if he attempts to get away, apply the
whip sharply over the head and pull up one foot; if he does not stop,
pull up the other foot and he will be obliged to stop. After a few les-
sons you may remove one foot-strap and then the other, and he may
be driven quite safely. After your horse stops and starts and turns
readily, you may teach him to back, by placing the lines upon him
and giving him light taps on the top of the head, at the same time
pull upon the lines and say ‘‘ back!” to give him an idea of what. is
wanted. Then repeat and tap over the head, and in a few lessons he
will back when you tap him two or three times on top of the head.
Much care must be taken in the education of the horse, not to hurt
or frighten him. To cause him not to jump if he be a little nervous,
use the blind bridle for a few times, with lines on, so he cannot see the
whip; then place the open bridle on and proceed. Always take the
lines and bridle with you when educating a horse, and at any time,

_ if needed, place them upon him. Keep on the safe side and you will

make a success of it and soon drive your horse nicely without bridle or

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turn to right or left, and by switching the whip over his back to make Bie “x

him go ahead, ete. If you are a competent horseman and use patience

and good judgment, you can drive as seen in illustration No. 57. ae
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To Drive by the Snap of the Finger.

; After your horse drives well by the switch of the whip, place Ed-

ward’s bridle and lines upon him in a roomy box stall, stand direetly

behind him, snap the finger on_the near side, give him a light pull on

that tine and he will turn; caress, and repeat on the other side the

same; then hitch to break-sulky, move to right hand side of seat and

snap right finger and he will turn that way; left the same. Cluck and

he will start, then when you wish him to stop, raise the hand straight

in front of you, make a hissing noise between the teeth and set back

lightly on the lines. When he stops, caress him. You should take the

whip the first few times, sitting upon it with the top straight back of

‘vehicle. To back him move the hand straight across in front of you,

and give light pull upon lines and he will back all right, andby re-

peating a sufficient number of times he will drive by the snap of the
finger as well as any other way.

To Drive by the Motion of the Hand.

After he drives well by the snap of the finger, take same position,
motion the left hand to near side, cluck, and he will go that way, re-
peat on the other side the same; then raise the hand for him to stop
directly in front of you and pull lightly upon the lines. Caress and
repeat, using the right hand on off side and left on near side and right
hand to stop him and move the right hand back and forth in front of
you to make him back, and pull \ightly upon the lines. You may take
the whip with you the same as in driving by snap of finger, at first
until he will drive all right without it.

Note. Some may say that this cannot be done. I have a two-year-old colt
that I have driven in this way many times and I shall drive the same, Providence
permitting, 1m the future.

/

_ To Educate a Horse to Run Loose, or Go

4 Away and Come Back Without Any-

. thing Upon Him, and Turn Car-
riage Around Without Driver.

Todo this you must know yourself pretty well, and be thorough and
persevering in your undertakings. First teach him to follow under
whip as described in first lesson (to follow under whip.) This is easily
done, though bear in mind it must be thoroughly taught. Now place

94 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

upon him Edward’s bridle with long cord attached. Take him out in~ iy ; :
to the field, or large yard is better. At first gocn ahead ofhim fifteen
or twenty feet and say, ‘‘come here,” at the same time cracking the Baers

whip or snapping the finger. He may come, if not pull upon the rope,
and when he gets to you feed him apples, sugar, ete., pet him and
caress him and he will soon come to you at the crack of the whip or
snap of the finger. You can gradually work away from him and be-
hind him and erack the whip and he will soon come to you at a dis-
tance of one hundred feet at the crack of the whip, you now must
teach him to goaway. This can only be done by placing the cord up-
on him through a ring fastened on the opposite side of yard from you,
say ‘‘go on’ to him and pull upon the cord, this will lead him away.
Keep the whip still until he is a few feet away, then crack whip, and —
as he has been taught this he will come back, caress and repeat until he
will go away at the word, and come back readily at the crack of the
whip. Now place upon him girt and crupper with ring tied to each on
his back, pass the cord through these and tie with bow knot at erup-
per so it cun be untied easily, (if at any time you wish touseit. Prae-
tice him in this way for several days, then remove the bridle and use
him in yard until he shows no sign of disobedience, then place a good
strap around his off fore fetlock, lined with sheepskin with short wool —
upon it, so it will not chafe or hurt, take him out into the field or lane,
let him start off or start him off and before he goes far say ‘‘whoa,”’ if
he does not stop pull up his foot and he will stop, say ‘‘come here”
and lightly crack the whip. When he comes caress and feed him.
Do not whip him if he does not come readily, if you do he will act all
the worse next time. He will soon come and go from you with a
string bridle, and soon without anythingupon him. Always place the
bridle and cord (or better long leather rein) on him when you first take
him out and change from that to the foot line until he is so thorougly
educated that he will not try to go only as far as he is taught. Use
the same length of cord or line every time and never let him get away,
If he gets away a few times he will not forget itin weeks. If heshould
try to get away ou three legs attach a short line to the other foot and —
pass it through the ring on girth under him and fasten to the other line
Have him in soft place as when he runs away bring his nose to the
ground a few times, by taking both his front feet up, and he will not
try to get away next time. When you take him on the street for the
first few times do not ask him to do too much. It looks well enough ‘
to see him go away only twenty feet. Let him ge. accustomed to the ~~
place by driving and stopping and turning in street hitched to vehicle. (
Keep a good lookout for your horse at all times and in case anything
looks suspicious to you, stop your horse until the road is clear, or lead
him by.

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 95

To Educate a Horse to Waltz.

Place a well paded sursingle upon him and boring the head partially
d t» side and tie to sursingle, tap him with the whip or crack it and say
“waltz”. Itis a good plan to play upon a mouth organ to inform
him when thereis music he must waltz. He will soon learn to waltz
around with the music and at the command ‘‘waltz.”’
[=§-Give short lessons at first, in a ring or circle.

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_ To Educate a Horse to Lie Down.

SUBDUING COMBINED WITH EDUCATION,

Biles around the off fore ankle a good strap with ring; buckle a
good single line in the ring; pass through ring on girt and out on near
side; buckle another line in bridle; use bridle as shown in illustration

ILLUSTRATION NO. 58.

No 58, with slide loop well down on nose; run the line from bit
through ring on near side; take a line in each hand and pull steady.
This will pull up his off foot and throw his head to the near side, and
he will soon lie down on his off side. Caress and let him lie. If he
attempts to get up, pull upon the lines and he cannot get up. When
he lies quiet, caress, and say ‘‘get up.” Let him up. He will come up
on all four feet and will stand muck easier than if one foot was fast-
ened up as is practiced by the old way. You may soon lay him down
again carefully. Soft sand or plenty of saw dust on the ground is the
only proper place to teach a horse this and other tricks where he has

aOR Pa

96 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

tolie down. Repeat lying him down (with a rest between each time)
until he will lie down at a slight pull upon the rope and the word —
‘*down.” Now take both lines in left hand and with blunt whip tap)
him on the back side of fore leg and at the same time say ‘‘ down,” Ay
and pull the lines a little. He will soon lie down at the tap of the
whip on the ground at his fronl feet. This will take threeorfour
days. It may be done sooner, but you will discourage himifyou work —__
him too much. Feed him oats while lying down, and caress him, and
you will have no trouble if you repeat often enough. Neverstrike
him while lying down or you will spoil htm for this nice little trick, 4
surely. This is a nice trick and after he will lie down readily, you —
can make him lie down upon a blanket, or Buffalo robe. In the
street. if you cannot handle him easily this way, you may make his off __
fore foot fast to the girt Do not draw it up too tight, as it willhurt
him. If he will not lie down now, you may place the line and strap on ~ .
near fore foot, and as he steps pull it up and this will bring him to his —
knees, and he will soon lie down. In each case pull his head tonear
side.

To Make a Horse Kneel.

After he will lie down readily you may place a well-paded girth upon
him, buckle a well fitting strap around each front ankle below fetlocks,
buckle two good single lines to these, pass them over girth or through.
rings on the under sides of girth, then give him the motion and word
to lie down and as he goes down on his knees say ‘‘whoa” caress and ~~
let him up, or make him get up before he lies down, repeat and in a
few days he will kneel down readily when you ask him to make a
‘‘prayer”. Much patience will be required to do this, as he will want
to lie down as soon as he goes to his knees, but kindness and patience
will bring him where you want him after a little practice. If he re_
fuses to get down on his knees, pull upon the lines which will take up
both of his front feet.

Teaching the Horse to Sit Up.

After your horse will lie down at the word, you may teach him to sit
up. This youmay doin this way: Place upon him Edward’s bridle
and while he is lying down take hold close to the bit and say ‘‘sit up.” —
As he places his fore feet in front of him in the attempt to get up say
‘‘whoa,” and pull down upon the bridle, which will have a tendency to
stop him. Caress him and let him up, as he will get uneasy to lie down
again or get up by force, which should be avoided. If he refuses te

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PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 97
stop at all in the sitting posture make him lie down immediately, and
repeat, and after a few lessons of this kind he will in most cases, if you
are kind and patient, improve very fast. Never take him upon a
floor covered with straw, it will work out from under his legs, and the
floor will hurt him, and he will be uneasy. If you cannot accomplish
it in this way, place upon hind legs, below thé fetlocks, two good
wide straps (well lined,) with rings on, and place upon him a good

hame collar. Now iake him lie down and buckle a pair of good single

lines in the rings and draw his hind legs well under his body; pass the
lines out between his frent legs and tie to collar in bow knot, so they
ean be untied quickly. Now take short hold of bridle as at first and
say ‘‘sit up,” and as he comes to the sitting posture he will be held
there. Hold hima short time and then make him lie down, loosen
the lines and !et him rest, and caresshim. Repeat once or twice and
then let him up. After a few lessons in this way he will lie down and

* sit up at the word, and then by the motion, if you wish to teach him by

motion-or sign. .
{¥"Ground bottom covered with sawdust is best,and really the only
place fit to give these lessons upon.

Teaching the Horse to Roll Over.

We will assume that he will lie down or sit up readily by this time.
Buck le a good fitting strap on each ankle, with rings attached, take

him to some place and make him lie down as formerly, only have his

back a little down hill. Now, snap or buckle a line in each ring on
straps on the legs on the side upon which he is lying. Stand by his
back and touch him on the side with a light whip and say ‘roll over,”
and pull him over before he has a chance to get up. Caress him and
repeat. The first time he attempts to roll over or does roll over with-
out assistance, caress, fondle and feed him something he likes. He will
soon roll over himself and enjoy the sport, by tuuching him upon the
bridle and giving the command to ‘* roll over.”

Educating to Kick With One or Both Feet.

This is very easily taught and ‘always amuses the audience and pro-
vokes laughter. Place an open bridle upon him and take one line in
hand upon the side you wish to educate. Stand a little to one side of
him and use the whip with small wire nail driven through by lash (as
used for learning to drive by tap of whip), touch him just below the
hock joint with lash and say ‘‘ what?” If the lash does not make him
move his foot, use the point of nail, and if he moves his foot

98 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL ; \

. ¥

ur make the least attempt to kick, step up and caress him. He

will, by repeating this, soon kick with »is foot at the drop of ~

the whip towards his leg and the question ‘‘ what do you do if the boys.
plague yon, what?” Teach him on the other side the same way, to
make him kick with the other foot; and then to make him kick with
both feet, touch him on top of the dock or at the roots of the tail.
Ask the same, or some question commencing with ‘ what.” Do not
touch him elsewhere to make him kick, as the breeching or other straps
might hit this spot and cause him to be uneasy. By practicing this a
short time he will kick very nicely, if properly taught, and will Wit
only when commanded.

To Kick Hitched to Circus Cart.

After he will kick well, hitch him to a small cart with plank in front,
but no thills. 'Then give him the touch at the roots of the tail or dock
and he will kick as much as you wish.

To Make Horse Drive Horse.

._ Have a stout cart with small wheels, and hitch the kicker on in
front, then make the other mule get up on the cart with front feet, —
hand him the lines and as he takes them start the other horse, and he
will walk around with front feet on gart. He should first be taught to
get on the cart and be drawn slowly around the ring by a person, stop-
ping often and repeating, and he will soon ride and drive.

To Educate to Throw Rider.

After he kicks well on the cart, you may make a straw man by stuf-
fing an old coat and pair of pants, tie it on him, start him around the
ring on a run and stop him suddenly, and pull the straw man off with
a cord attached to one leg. Go up to him, feed and caress him, then
place the straw man on him again and start him off, and give him the
sign to kick, and stop him at the same time, and pull the image off
again. By repeating a few times, it is almost impossible to ride him
when the sign is given to kick and bolt. This always makes fun, and
if the horse is fat and smooth, no man or boy can sine on him without
a saddle an. bridle.

BA Pee habe tr ye ha aati rN Y nel ee

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 99

Educating to Go Lame.

Take your horse by the bridle with the left hand, standing on near
side. Walk along with him and say “‘lame;” tap him with the but of
the whip first back of the knee and he will soon limp by’ pointing the
the whip at hisieg. You may now ask him if he is ‘‘lame”. Let’s see?
—start him and he will soon go lame. When you stop him make him
rest upon the lame foot or not stand upon it, and by pointing at his
jeg, you may ask him any question you wish and he will go lame, and
will soon go lame when you take the right position if you do not point
at him.

Educating to Gallop,

Take him by the bridle reins close to the head and walk along by his
shoulder and with a short, blunt whip, touch him under the chin light-
iy at first. If he only tosses his head caress him and repeat. Increase
the blows under the chin and he will soon raise up off the ground with
both feet. After you get him so he will gallop well, ask him what he
: does when the ladies ride him, start off with him and give him the
sign, and he will gallop. Then stop him and ask him what he does
4 when the boys ride him, and give him the sign to kick with beth feet
j and his legs will fly up in the air and everybody will laugh.

Educating to Laugh.

; Stand by his head and placing the left hand on his nose take the
but end of a short whip and touch him intheroof ofthe mouth. Now
place a halter upon him and take hold two or three feet from the head
and say ‘‘laugh,” at the same time jab him lightly in the mouth with
* Sutt of whip and he will soon laugh at the command or pointing at the
head with the whip. It will take much patience and perseverence to
teach this trick nicely. It is a good plan to place a piece of sweet ap-
ple in the mouth as he opens it to laugh. Makeit a point to get his
head up a little while teaching this trick.

Educating to Paw or Count.

Stand by his near side and commence by touching him lightly with
the point of a nail driven through the end of the whip as described in
lesson for driving without reins. Touch him just above the knee on
the back side of fore leg and say ‘‘how.” He will show signs of paw-

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100 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

ing, for which caress him and repeat until he will count or paw by

droping the top of whip toward his front leg. Then you may ask him
‘‘how” old he is or “how” many quarts of oats he wants? and make
him stop pawing by taping him on the baek when you raise the whip.
You may have to tap him quite hard to wake him stop when you raise
the whip. He will soon count, add, and answer any question you may
ask him by counting. ‘lo teach him to paw with the other ‘oot you
must change the position enough so he ean easily distinguish the differ-
ence and will never make any mistake. Your sueeess in this, as in

other lessons of this kind, will depend upon your skill to make the

horse comprehend what you want of him, without exciting or making
him fear you.

If any one is looking on after you have taught your horse to count,
etc., and you ask him a question and he does not answer it, pay no at-
tention to it. Ask hiur some other question or ,have him do some
other little trick, and teach him more thoroughly when alone the one
he refused to answer.

Educating the Horse to say Yes and No.

Stand by his near shoulder with pin in left hand, take hold of whip
with same hand. With the pin in thumb and forefinger slide the hand
down on whip and touch him on the breast with pin. He will soon
bite at you or try to relieve the trouble by bowing his head. Caress
and repeat and he will soon bow at any question you may ask him by
moving the hand down on the whip alittle. Teach him this thorough-

ly and then commence teaching him to say ‘‘no,” by raising the hand ©

up on the whip and using the pin on his neck just in front of where
the hame collar comes and a little on one side. Slide the hand down
and make him say ‘‘Yes” or bow. Slide it up and make him say “no.”
Ask him any question you wish and he will answer properly every tiie
if you change the position of the hand. Change the position of the
hand carefully and easily and no one will see how it is done. Always
as you teach this let a little time elapse between each question or he
will get in a notion of answering before you ask, which should be
avoided. When you take your position hold the whip in right hand
and as you ask the question change it over to left hand, with this hand
in position for the answer you desire.

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 101

Educating to Take OF Your Cap, Pick up
Your Whip, etc.

Stand close to his near shoulder with cap in left hand and pin in
your right Prick him lightly on the shoulder, at the same time hold
the cap under his nose, and he will soon bite at it. Caress him, and
by repeating you can soon place the cap on your head and stoop over
and he will take it off, and then say, ‘‘ give it here,” and (see lesson in
teaching to give you things) take it before he drops it. You can grad-

-ually raise your head and he will reach up and take your hat off, and

by lowering it with the hand he will soon pick it up off the ground.
The same with the whip or handkerchief. If he is careless and drops
things, touch him with the whip and make him pick it up again, and
repeat, and he will soon be afraid to drop them.

To teach him to go after it, throw it away a little at first and make
him pick it up. Increase the distance very slowly and he will soon go
away and get your hat, whip or handkerchief and bring it to you. If
you wish him te go and get either one of two handkerchiefs, red or
white, teach him by a motion, and by practice he wi:l go after the one
you slightly motion for him to—-that is if your horse stands facing you.
If you place two handkerchiefs on the floor and some one asks him
to get the red one, give hin the motion by placing the hand on that
side upon the collar of your coat orsomething similar. This takes some
time and patience, bat can be taught any horse of ordinary intelli-
gence. No one can detect you if you are a competent. teacher and
your horse an attentive scholar, well educated. Do not in this, as in
other tricks, punish too sharply for disobedience, or you will get up too
much fear in your horse, and the result will not be as good.

Educating to Give You Things,

After your horse will take things from you and pick them up, to
make him hand them back is quite easily taught. After he takes your
hat and holds it a short time, say ‘‘give,” and touch him on the sboul-
der or side with a pin and reach out the hand to take it. If he should
drop it, make him pick it up again, and repeat it, and he will soon
hand things to you very nicely. Caress him every time he turns his
head towards you and take what he has in his mouth, and he will soon
turn after you ani hand or give you anything readily that he can pick
up. Then make him pick up your hat and, taking a few steps away,
say ‘‘give it here,” and he will obey, if you touch him lightly upon the
side on which you stand.

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102 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

To Teach a Horse How to Open a Box.

After having him thoroughly taught to pick up things and bring
them to you, you may teach him to open a box and take handkerchief.
ete., out of it and bring to you, in this way. First make a door and —
saw 4 hole about a foot square in the center of it. Stand it up on one
side of box stall and fasten it so it will not fall down. Then place a
halter upon your horse, taking him by the chin piece of the halter,
lead him up to the door with the right hand while with the left you
hold something he likes (sweet apple for instance) through the hole
and he will take it. Now nail a slat across the hole with one nail at
the top. Lead him up again and show him the apple and he will tisy
to getit by pushing the slat to one side with his nose. As he does this
pet him and say ‘‘box”, ‘‘box.” Keep nailing a wider slat until the
hole is entirely covered. Then take your whip, (a short riding whip)
and tap him just back of where the back pad rests. Partially open
the cover and let him smell the apple, then close it and tap him again
and say ‘‘box.” He will soon push the cover to one side and take the
apple. Next you present a handkerchief and touch him as you did in
teaching to pick up anything, and he will soon take the handkerchief.
Have him bring it to you and feed him the apple, and caress. Now
make a box one foot square, hang it up in the same place and fasten
on the cover so it will turn easily with one nail at the top and say
‘open the box,” and he will take things out and bring them to you.

Educating to Kiss You.

Take sweet apples cut into quarters and place in your pockets a
good supply; then take a small stick, sharpen it so you ean stick a
piece of apple on it, and feed him from the hand, moving your hand
nearer your face each time until he takes the apple from the stick
which you hold in your teeth. Touch him on the side with a pin and
say, ‘‘kiss me.” Place the stick in your mouth with the apple upon
it and he will soon kiss you at the word. If he refuses, tap him on the
side with the whip and say ‘' kiss me,” and touch him with the pin and
he will soon learn he must kiss you. Sometimes he might not be apple
hungry, and this would be the only way to make him obey. This is a
very nice trick when well done, creates affection and is highly inter-
esting to lovers of the equine race.

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ek eC Se eee

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 103

To Educate to Close a Door.

After he will open the box hang a light door in the same place as
box. Show him the apple and touch him with the whip and lead him
with his nose against the door, which will swing. After a few times,
with patience and kindness, he will close the door at the word ‘‘close.”
Touch the whip, then say ‘‘close the door,” tap him with the whip and
he will close the door and willsoon close any door of medium size at the
word.

To Open a Door.

After he will close the door, fasten your handkerchief on the door at
the outward edge, shake it and touch him as to pick up things, and he
will take hold of the handkerchief. Then touch him as to back on the
head and as he takes one step back caress and feed. Repeat until he
will take hold of the handkerchief and open the door. Then place a
strap in place of handkerchief and he will open the door by taking
hold of the strap. . ‘

To Teach Him to Walk Up and Down

Stairs.

First make a strong platform 10 inches high, 10 feet long, and 8 feet
wide, make him step upon this. Place one foot up with the hand and
he will soon step upon this with the other. Lead him over this until
he shows no signs of fear or disobedience; then place another box in
the center of this about a foot smaller, same height and lead him over
this the same; and then place on a box a foot smaller, each time mak-
ing them secure so he will not loose confidence at their shaking and
you soon can lead him up any flight of stairs that are not very steep,
ana can lead him down in the same way.

Conduct.

If you teach your horse these tricks you can command a fancy price

at any time. I have practiced these theories and am confident that any
. boy or man with a sufficient quantity of ‘‘horse in him,” as they term

it, can make each and every rule work. Never loose courage or confi-
dence in your ability because you may not bring about good results

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104 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

easily. To accomplish anything of importance, remember, requires no
ordinary resolution and perseverance. There would be no credit or
importance in teaching a horse many tricks or in managing bad horses
if not difficult or apparently dangerous.

No duty requires more firmness of purpose in the control of the pas-
sions, or more fidelity to the principles of firmness and truth than that
of good horsemanship

If you would be a great, genuine, successful horseman, you wust
never seem to forget by your conduct that you are a man and that
your superiority over the animal really consists in the prudent exer-
cise of your reasoning powers and good judgment. Torture and brute
force are not your forte, and the moment you give way to passion, your
reason yields to the control of blind instinet and you at once throw
away your intellectual superiority over the animal. It is your duty to
prove by the example of your actions that to be a good horseman re-
quires higher qualifications of fitness than anger, dishonesty and
depravity, occasionally evinced in the conduct of some claiming the
distinction, but who come very far from ever reaching this point.

In Conclusion of Teaching Tricks.

I would like to state that while it may seem impossible to some, I
ean show a two-year-old colt at present writing that understands and
will perform forty separate and distinct feats, and I can prove he has
had but four month’s training. He also drives upon the run without
reins. No one ever taught this colt anything but myself, more than to
halter break him. While some may say it is a humbug and do not ke
lieve it, I repeat I can prove by good authority and by Bonner E. Bris-
to!, hi:nself, as he willshow you the forty feats if you come to see him,

The Song of the Horse.

For bits you may look to the ends of all creation;
You may search every store at every place or station;
But you never will find with true justification,
All the merits combined in the ‘‘ Edward’s combination.”’

With its adjustable qualities, and lever swiveled eyelet,
It may be placed with pride in a 2:10 horse’s toilet.

The object of its construction ’tis impossible to foil it,
To govern without irritation, try it; you cannot spoil it.

Of course you have heard many a song,

Some that were short and some that were long;
But Ido not thin! you can truly endorse,

That you ever have heard this song of the horse.

**T am your faithful servant and I’ll plod ali day,
If you’l use ‘Edward’s theories’ with good oats and hay.”

oa ee Py
eg res

See ee Se

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 105

Piiedand Ponies—How the Little Horses
Are Obtained.

The majority of Americans know very little about the manner in
which these animals are raised and the character of the people who
raise them. For instance, it is the popular belief that the buyer goes
to Shetland and picks up a drove of ponies as easily he would a tlock
of sheep in Texas. But suchis not the fact, by any means. The
large island is about forty-five miles square, very rough and hilly, and
is populated by small farmers. The climate is quite severe in the win-
ter. Every farmer owns one, two, three or more Shetland mares,
from which they raise the ponies, and shelter them in rude sheds.
The anitnals live principally on potatoes, turnips, and a peculiar kind
of spear-grass, indigenous to that country. As soon as the warm spring
days come the country is visited by buyers from Engiand and the con-
tinent. who come to catch bargains for the nobility. The ponies are
in great demand for the wealthier classes of England, who buy them
for their boys. These Shetiand farmers are a common, ordinary set
of men. They have a keen eye single to a good bargain in selling the
pony, and the buyer has to use as many tricks of the horse-trader in
that country asin Yankeedom. To gather the last drove of ponies I
purchased there I had to ride over a large portion of the island—over
hills and through ravines covered with snow—picking up one or two
ponies here and there. The price for a pony is usually £5,-and it costs
from £8 to £10 each to ship them across the North Sea to Aberdeen,
Seotiland. By the time a pony is landed in America it costs the ship
per about $125. Leta

Ladies on Horseback.

Did you ever observe a lady just before she is lifted into a saddle.
and a few moments after the horse has struck a canter? She becomes
a changed being ‘The roses spring to her cheeks, the light seems to
leap from her eyes, her form is the inspiration of graceful action, and
she becomes a beauteous picture of moving heaith. And this. after all,
is the best view te take of horseback riding. Aside from its charm, its
dash, its buoyancy of imotion, its special or general beauty, it is the
most healthful exercise within the province of women. It is better
than dancing, lawn tennis, croquet, rowing, archery. There are many
reasons why it is better, and one of the strongest seems to be that it
brings continuous change of scene, which tends to rest the body as
weil as the mind. The fascinating effects which it has on the fair rider.
cannot be estimated, provided she has a well-trained horse and indul
ges in moderation.

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106 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

Points of A Good Horse.

Points of Excelleuce—Size.—While mere bulk is comparatively
useless, a fair amount of substance is absolutely necessary. The tall
horse is apt to be leggy and long in the cannon-bones. Length in the
aris, shoulders, thighs, and haunches is desirable. : a

Color—(It is an old adage that a good horse is any color, but
there are exceptions to all rules.) Bay, chestnut, black and brown
are good colors, although the bay and black, especially for matched,
horses, are probably most sought and admired. J ‘

Symmetry of Body-—The withers should be high and thin; should-
ers, oblique and muscular, showing good leverage; chest, large, wide
above and deep; back short and broad; barrel, round and close rib-
bed; loins strong and muscular; body, strong underneath, rump, mod-
erately drooping and well uaa

Head and Neck—The head should be clean, and delicate, and as
small as would be in keeping with the rest of the body; wide and flat
between the eyes; forehead, bold and prominent; muzzle, fine; nostrils
large; mouth, deep; lips, thin and firmly compressed; throttle, broad
and deep; neck, good length, thinon top, with windpipe well de-
tached.

Eye and Ear—The eye should be large and prominent. The eye
of the horse is an accurate index of his temper, and experience has
shown if too much white is visible he is a dangerous one. The ear
should be thin, erect, and not tolong—quick and lively. The ear in-
dicates both spirit and breeding.

Feet and Limbs— The feet should be smooth, fine tecture, and
well shaped, with good ground surface; heels, not tu high; frog, large
and elastic. The arm should be long and large; knee, long and flat;
sinews, prominent and firm; pasterns, strong and properly inclined;
stifle, strong anc powerful; quarters deep, reaching down into long
but smooth hocks; hock, large, long, clean, and well proportioned.
The leg, from hock down, should be straight, short and fat, with
sinews standing weil out from the hip bone and free from all defeets.
The hind pasterns should be stronger and more oblique than the pas-
terns of the fore leg.

The Tail—The tail should be long and full, muscular, and well set
upon the rump, carried free. The bone should not be too large, or
course.

Speed at the Trot —The gate should bes an even, regular, honest,
and genuine trot, without requiring boots or weights. The ability to
pull weights is a quality of exceeding value, and when found in com-
bination witn speed and stoutness, we may say that the prime charact-
eristic of the speed horse are obtained.

Speed in Walking—The step should be bold, firm, elastic and far

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP.

“reaching.

Style and Action —The high action ‘ana elegant carriage so desir-
ss in the park horse is not considered so necessary in the gentle-
man’s driving and family classes. Still, there should be easy and 2
_ graceful action, combined with well-balauced harmony of parts, to-
Weg with speed, intelligence and fearlessness, which are indispensa-
_ ble in this class of horses. The action should be free and clear, dis
-pensing with the necessity oF boots or other safe ,uards on the limbs
_ of the animal.

Standard Size and Speed.

Mitt a _ Height. — Speed.
Matched carriage horses................ SR Rae aM oma 16 hands; ‘6 minutes.
- Matched gent’s: driving horses a ace PBB ih SIR eraecielar 1534 hands; 3 minutes. ye
pllamimy horses... 46.2 0) 8o2o ol Rete ee OSE & 154g hands; 5 minutes. is
Gent’s driving horse... 2.2 .0.......¢.5yi5005. Heise ae ae ..1514 hands; 2:35 minutes. :
’ Park or Phaeton horse..............4.-..5- eae el 16 hands; 4 minutes.

is tS Gy) | lh 729 hNay Ter) Habe A Apia LE i i Pi
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4
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108 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

PERFECTION.

Thinking that ‘‘Perfection” can as well answer these points us any
horse we ever saw, we insert an engraving of him by Ramsdell and
we trust you will agree with us that he is, as seen in Illustration No.
584, a fair sample of a perfect horse.

‘

Eleven Gentleman Horseman’s Rules.

1—YOUR STABLES. Make them as comfortable as possible;
warm for winter, cool for summer, with plenty of light coming in from
different directions, and if possible, not directly in front of him.

2—VENTILATION. Good, pure air is very essential, so arranged
without a draft sweeping over the horse.

Ws boot ss AERA ohh ge

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 109

3 —-FLOORS. Have them so constructed by sloping backwara, or
by boring holes through, to facilitate the drainage of urine.
4—BEDDING. Use plenty of straw, saw-dust, or shavings. A
horse well bedded and eared for at night is half supported.
5—STALLS. Clea them well daily. Empty the feed boxes and
mangers from time to time of all accumulated dust or refuse.
6—BLANKETS. Provide yourself with good woolen blankets.
| _ Keep it on him when out of doors, spring, fall and winter. Care in
j this respect will be economy in every way. |
* 7—CHEST PROTECTOR. They are much used at the present
time, espezially on cart and draught horses. They prevent the taking
of cold, aud lung complaints generally.
8—FEEDING. The bane of the stable is careless feeding. Give
with as much regularity as possible what the horse needs—not what
he will eat. Heavy work, heavy feed; light work, light feed. Bran
mash once a week—seven timesa week if sick. Oats are the horse’s
body, all agree to this. At any rate they are good enough. Oats for
muscle, corn for warmth. Of course circumstances must regulate
what you feed, but vou can always regulate how you feed it.
9—WATER. Asarule when on the road water when convenient.
Do not neglect giving this great necessity to comfort and life. You
Be ‘like good, pure water, so does your faithful friend. He needs it, and
all the intricate processes of life demand it. ° Water your horse, I say,
but do it judiciously.
10—REST. This is often better than medicine. His energies re-
cuparate when he is out of the harness and comfortable. Above all,do
not let Tom, Dick and Harry have the work horse Sunday. Thy are
almost certain to neglect him in some way. I would trust a man
quicker with my pocket book than with my horse.
11—SHOEING. Attend to the shoeing and accompanying dan-
gers of the same if poorly done. Use kindness and proper treatment, —
and try to convince those that shoe your horses which is the right way
to do it.
In brief, give attention in every respect to decency and kindness
- to your horses.

3
:
.

A full grown horse or stallion has 40 teeth and amare 46. Horses
have 4 bridle or hook teeth.

There are not many, I presume to say, that can tell a horse’s age
much better by looking at an engraving of teeth in a book, so I will
give a few rules that may be relied upon:

At 2 years old the colt has a full set of milk or colt teeth. He will

| _._ How To Tell Age by Teeth.

110 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

soon need others of a more durable and firmer:setting. This necessity
nature meets by commenciug the replacement by the more permanent
on s. This operation begins with the first grinder, the forward one.
But as the grinders are too far back to be easily inspected, we must
continue to depend mainly upon what we can discover in connection
with the nippers. During the third year the central nippers, both
upper and lower, are being shed, and by the time the process is com-
pleted the permanent pair have become nearly full grown.

In the fourth year the same changes occur. Two new teeth make
their appearauce in the upper and two in the lower jaw. There yet
remain the corner teeth above and below which will be shed at the age
of four past. The bridle teeth, or tushes, are generally in plain sight.
The horse is said to have full mouth now at the age of 5 years.

At 6 years the central nipper of the lower jaw are worn down so
that the cups are nearly obliterated. In some horses they are entirely
gone and the central nippers in the pepet jaw show the decrease in
in the depth of the cup.

At 7 years the cups in the four central nippers of the lower jaw
are no longer visible and the cups in the four central nippers in the
upper jaw are just wearing away.

At 8 years they are all oval. The cups in all the teeth in the lower
jaw are worn out, yet the enamel, or white mark is still visible.

At 9 years the only guide we have is the shape of the face of the
theeth, or nippers. The cups are worn out in the central nippers of the
upper jaw and a hook has been formed on the corner of the teeth.

At 10 years the te: th diminishes somewhat in width but not in
thickness. They become a little apart from each other and their
surface a litte rounded.

At 11 years the second pair of nippers are quite rounded and then
from 12 to 13 years the corner ones have that appearance.

From 14 to 16 years the face of the nippers become somewhat tri-
angular and the angles begin to wear off. The central teeth are oval
from outward to inward, and at 20 they all have this form.

From 20 to 30 years all lines and marks dissapear and the indica-
tions of old age are independent of the teeth. At this age are deepen-
ing of the hollows over the eyes, gray hairs about the nose and eyes,
thinness and hanging down of the lips and sharpness of the lower jaw
bones.

Teeth of the Three and Four Year Old.

The three-year-old colts cut four front teeth, and in their fourth ©
year they cut four front and eight back teeth and four tushes (gener-
ally), making sixteen teeth cut at the age of four years. More or less

Be
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PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 111

irritation must necessarily attend the cutting of. these teeth, causing

considerable fever. (The teeth of horses are receiving more attention

than formerly.) When the three-year-old sheds the molars (or grind-
ers) the roots become absorbed, the crowns get loose and hang to the
gums, and should be removed as they will cut the cheek inside and
make the mouth sore. The horse with decayed teeth and tooth ache
will toss the head, discharge from one nostril, irritable disposition,

pulling or lugging on the bit or refusal to take the bit. The remedy is

to get a veterinary to remove them. I have come to believe, especially
in training for speed, it desirable to give much attention to the teeth.

Still I believe that nature intends or was meant to meet these wants,

and if the horse is left alone he will never have trouble with his teeth
any more than a cow or sheep. Some bits bringing pressure where
they do, cause irritation and the teeth should be attended to.

The Mule.

Train and edueate the mule exactly the same as the horse from be

ginning to end. ‘There is no rule that can be applied to the horse that

cannot be applied to the mule, he being nearer in proximity to the
horse than any o her animal. The mule, as a rule, is more persistent,
and slower to comprehend than the horse, while some of them may be .
educated to perform as many feats asthe horse. —

WHAT THE MULE WOULD SAY.
Where is the trainer so funny and quick,
Trying to see if I will kick;
Wait ’till he gets close behind,
I won’t kill him, ‘‘in your mind.”

A Word With Horse Trainers,

In the first place I wish to impress upon your mind, especially if you
are young and of limited practice and experience, that if you intend to
follow the business of horse training or educating, to construct or have
constructed a harness and bridle complete, breaking sleigh and sulky
that no horse can break, let him do what he may—one that is siniply
proot against everything but a railroad locomotive. This once done
you may start out with one assurance of much consolation, and that is
that you will not be obliged to make repairs every few days of more or
less expense. How often I have heard a trainer say ‘‘the colts are
always breaking something.” Having been poorly handled, and con-
sequently hard to train: or educate, they often do damage to harness

eo ES Be

IRA a as sah Lib i i ish abs 7.

112 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

and earriage, if not injure themselves, in consequence of not having a
good, stout outfit to commence with. I have seen men weighing 200
pounds taken over fences and dragged about, and horses turn around
and crauwp a wagon and break the axle, tip the vehicle over and possi-
bly get away, but no horse of my own training has ever ‘‘done me up,”
as they call it, with my break harness and sulky, the credit for ba
you may place where you wish. Hee

You will find many difficulties to overcome if you go from place to
place to train borses, coming in contact at times with old and vie’ous
animals and desperate runaways. Handle them as described in former
pages and keep on the safe side. I have heard some trainers say if a
horse would not come to time or act right when they took him out they
would take him back upon the floor and give him another lesson This
inight work as a rale, but I have seen horses tiat would take you back
to the floor forever, because they did uot like to be hitched to a wagon.
This horse must be hitched to a sulky, let come what will. Use the
leg harness and after a struggle or two and he has wrestled with the
sulky until he is satisfied that he cannot kick or break it, he will give
up and act like another horse, and become a good, servicable animal.
This is, of course, a case of the worst tppe of viciousness. Place upon -
such a horse the leg harness. If you start out with a light bridle and
reins to educate horses, you may rest assured you will get left. Get
everything in readiness and go straight about your business and pay
no attention to those who find fault or make strong remarks alout
you. The probabilitie- are that they would not do half as well your-
self if they were in your place. You, of course, must have been assc-
ciated with the horse for some tine and made a study of his nature and
habits, and have more than an ordinary amount of energy, self-con-
trol and perseverence to be successful. .

If you do not train more than one horse in a year, do it well and
get your pay forit. Never deviate from a good, living price, for as
sure as you do you will be money and time out. While a majority of
horses may be taught to follow under the whip and the same prove
very beneficial to them, there are cases where training with the whip
does no good, as some animals of a very nervous and flighty tempera-
ment get so much excited at the crack of the whip and fear it to such ©
an extent. The more quiet way you accustom them to the whip, the
better. This I generally do by handling them to an ordinary buggy
whip in a box stall. Some men have an idea and have intimated the
same to me, that I take a horse upon a barn floor and whip him until
he comes to me. This is not the case. - In some instances, where there
was very poor light and the eye of the animal was of an unnatural
color, owing to the darkness, and could not see well, I have used the
lash whip a little more than would have been necessary if [ could have
caught the horse’s eye with the sight of my own and kept it with a

3

NEG EA RET LS SNL a Ste May ho tam SH Tae
Pe ahy MeaAUat ee ee 4 j ‘

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 113

good light. At the same time I can teach most any horse to follow in
a good, well-lighted enclosure, in about fifteen minutes—and have done
it in three minutes without whipping—and you can do the same if you
manipulate your whip and eye in the right way.

You may say to the owner, ‘‘I will train this horse for so much,
but I am to dictate as to how much or how little to give him.” Here
is a very important point. The owner has a colt, you commence to
train im and he turns out to be a hard one, and he thinks a great deal
of him. The only way to doisto reason the matter and use good,
e€ommon sense, good judgment, and proceed as best you ean to finish
the work.

In all the horses I have trained, I have never had any trouble with
owners, lost any pay, or injured or blemished any horses. I have not
had as much experience as some, still I think it safe to say there are
very few men of iny age that have had as much experience with horses
as myself. The training of speed horses is an art, and is almost in-
variably aecomplished by those who have trained colts and horses to
some extent, and with a good, level head and business qualities, that
would make him successful at whatever he should undertake. I really
believe there is more need of good judgment in stopping when you
have done enough in this business than in any other.

Breeding.

This subject once tuken up might be made into a book of consid-
erable magnitude. As space will not allow this, and a lack of knowl-
edge on my part, I will give only a fewideas. In the first place, there
are in nay estiination, three classes from which you may choose to breed,
viz, the draft, the coach and the race horse. It matters not which of
these you choose tobreed Unless you start right you need not expect
to be successful. How shall I start, you ask. 1 answer simply by
saying procure a dam that has all the requisite qualities to produce an'
ofispring equally good or better than herself. Look well to the dispo-
sition, hardihood, longevity and pedigree of her race. Having ob-
tained a dam, standing at the head of the respective class to which she
belongs, and you breed her to a sire that is her equal in every respect,
you may expect, if you know what you want, to see your beau ideal of
acolt. I have often said, and I think that you will agree with me, that
there is nothing more ridiculous and silly than the effort some people
put forth to make a trotter out of a draft horse, and crossing dunghills
with thoroughbreds. Itis the silliest kind of ambition to want your
draft or farm horse to take on an artificial gait. The effort generally
ends in a failure so far as speed is concerned, and you are in great dan-
ger of permanently injuring your horse. Much profit ean be obtained,

114 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL ; ott

combined with pleasure, in raising the coach horse. You can always
get a good price for a guod pair of coachers. The road or general pur-
pose horse is probably bred the most extensively, owing to the greatest
number of mares of this kind and the necessity of breeding so because
you need this kind.

The Race Horse.

Some claim it is useless to raise or breed trotters, as they are so
small as aclass. The most prominent reason why most men do not get
good prices for their tretting colts is that they do not know how to
train them, orif they do, they neglect to do so, thinking the colt should
trot a ‘‘40 clip” the first time he is hitched, or he is notrotter. If you
make a few visits to the race horse breeders’ establishments and see
them train a few colts, and then go to their sales and see the same colts
sold for from $800 to $1,000, you will go home saying, ‘‘ what prices?”
and undoubtedly decide that it pays to raise trotters.

Take my advice and go and see some of the most extensive hese
ers and see the clear cut, open gaited, thorough-breds used for breed-
ing purposes.

At the same time I wish to impress upon your mind that the draft
horse of a certain class are fast coming into favor. They are bread
and butter earners and what the farmer must have to draw the plow,
do the daily ploding. Breed what you may, it must be done with
care. Provide a place for the colt and give him a chance at the grain
box and he will repay you.

A good disposition is first to be looked at, asa horse with a level
head may be relied upon. I feel sorry for men who are and have been
for a long time raising this class of horses and making a failure for the
reason of not using good judgment in selecting a first-class, thorough
bred dam to breed frora. It costs no more to raise a colt worth $500
than one worth $50.

That Which Is Hereditary.

I have often talked with men upon this subject. Some argue ex-
actly opposite from others. It is my candid opinion however that
many more would believe as I do if they could see, wha. I have seen.
Nearly every case where the sire or dam have prime qualities, the off-
spring will have the same. It is not consistant to say that because a
sire or a dai is a kicker, the colt must necessarily be. But due cau-
tion in each ease should be taken to prevent the hereditaty defects com-
ing into prominence. I believe that a great many more minute things

je pct Ge aia eA cease rae a aah bi ee
is 8 WS x pes? | Siiyt ag \ yan " fos >

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 115

are carried from generation to generation to a far greater extent than
most people believe.

If you are associated with horses for some time you will see more
of this every day, if you make a study of their nature. I have seen
the traits of the dam in a colt three days old. Some would say that
this was only a playful action if it were a kick. I have often seen

: this play as it is ealled carried into damaging effect if not stopped in
: time. I well remember when a small boy of a colt we had. His
; mother was a chronie halter puller. This colt was hitched when only a
2

few weeks old with a good strap halter and he pulled exactly like his
mother He never got away or broke the halter, still he would pull.
He never had any pulling rigs placed upon him, if he had he possibly
might have been broken of the habit, but I believe it was hereditary
as much as I ever believed anything. The first time he was tied it was
in a box stall where he had been many times and still he would pull.
So I think it is in many cases, though many may possibly not be so
strongly manifested as this.

The Mustang.

At the p-eseat writing I have four mustangs to train toride and
drive single and double. I have often been asked why these horses are
so hard totrain. They are semi-wild to begin with, and never having
seen anything in the hands of man but alasso and red hot branding
iron, being branded as some are from one to six times. Is it any won-
der they are wild and hard to handle? To whip the mustang when
he is mad or in a sulk is labor thrown away. Still at times you will be
obliged to be severe even more so than with the native horse. You will
be obliged to take more time and touch him up more lively with the
whip to teach him to follow at the snap of the finger; will be obliged |
to handle him more severe with the bit and smothering nose piece.
At the same time you must not lose your temper. Always approach
him at the head, and caress. After you get him into a small enclosure,
(barn floor is good,) one that there is no possible chance of his getting
out of, you may commence to drive him around you with the whip.
As he passes by you work a little closer to him. Each time pass the
whip over his back and sides, down his legs and over his head. Keep
this up for a while, and as he goes by you step infrontofhim. Reach
Bay out the hand and feed him if he will eat, touch him on the nose and
. caress him and let him rest an hour or two.

You should now provide yourself with a good stout strap halter, and
have a good center post or pole (one that will not break) placed in the
center of your training pen. This center post once used always is ap-
preciated in training any vicious horse. Proceed carefully to get the

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116 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

halter upon him and attach 20 or 30 feet of good rope. Drive him
around you, occasionally catching him around the pole to let him
know you ean hold him. Do not tie him or hold him so that he will
get a chance to pull upon the halter. You should provide yourself
now with 20 or 30 feet more of rope. Make a loop in the end and toss
it over his back; bring it out at the near side just back of the fore legs,
pass the free end through the loop and draw up snug. He will com-
mence by bucking or pitching, undoubtedly, and this is just what you
are prepared for. He cannot kick you or jump on you as you have
him around the center post. Let him go around until he is satisfied
he cannot get the rope off, then approach and caresshim. Give sever-
al lessons of this kind before you attempt to harness. In all my train-
ing I have never found but one mustang I could not teach to come to
the crack of the whip or snap of the finger in a few moments This
one I attribute the cause to his being tied to a tree by the under jaw
as to make him afraid of man in the extreme. I trained him in a few
days to follow. The owner was surprised to see the change in him. :
Fle was tied to the tree as the best resort to hold him, as he would
kick, bite andstrike when approached by man. (In all cases if the
trainer is capable I would advise training to the whip as given under
training to the whip in this book.) After he will- allow you to ap-
proach him and place the rope around him you can place the harness ©
upon him, observing the former rules of training, using care in watch-
ing him closely. If he sulk you ean easily take it out of him with the
smothering nose piece. Provide yourself with a break sulky and if
you wish, strap a neck yoke to.one of the thills by boring a hole
throngh and secure the neck yoke tothe same. After you get the
mustang hitched in the thills properly you may place another horse at
his side if you wish. In my training I never use the second horse at
first. .After a little it may do to help educate the mustang to rein.
At all eveuts if you provide yourselfavith a stout break sulky with
good strong thills and strap him down well, you are at once secured
against the greatest danger—-kicking. I do not write this as an except-
ional way of training mustangs, but have praticed it for years and have
never injured one or had the owner dissatisfied after returning them.
I have often had men ask me: Howdo you suppose the owner can
drive him after you take him back? I always tell them they will
drive them with the reins asI do. Thisidea some people have of say-
ing a horse broken to day isnot broke to-morrow is all nonsense.
Providing the owner does not missmanage the horse, he willalways be
broken. Trainers cannot be held responsible for the poor horseman
ship of others. ; and owners have often said to me I do not expect to
drive the horse as you do, but if you can do as much with him I think ©
I can do a little. In taking the mustang out at first, have a post set
in the ground in smooth convenient place (in the yard is best), and

~

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 117

take time and he will soon go round the post all right. I usually
drive them around the post both ways before hitching to sulky.
Then they are more apt to go without balking, Use the packing hitch
as seen in illustration No 50 (passing the off line through ring
on back and near rein in left hand direct from bit.) I usually place
this hiteh upon the mustang as it gives a’ good chunee to rein either
way. You can make them back. If they do not back the first time
do not give up or think the principals of training are wrong, but take
time and by pulling the head around to one side they will soon back
all right. As aruleit will take double the time to train a wild horse
or mustang as an average native colt. Do not chéck the mustang
but little if any at first, unless you give him a complete lesson in check-
ing as deseribed in former pages.

Training Steers.

In educating steers, as in horses, much patience and perseverence
is necessary to assure success. The rules will be materially the same
as for training horses—that is, applied in a way that makes them easy,
safe and effectual. We will assume that you have a pair cf one-year
or two-year-old steers. Get them into an enclosure, take near steer to

' eenter pole as seen in Illustration No. 59, in small yard, with plenty of

well tramped straw, away from other steers.

ILLUSTRATION No. 59.

First drive him around the pole to the left and say ‘go on,” tap-
ping him on the back with the whip. Pull on the rope and he will
soon walk around the pole. Now say ‘‘ whoa,” and tap him over the

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118 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

head, between the horns, and if he does not stop, pull upon one trip
line wnich will bring up one foot, and if does not stop then pull up the
other foot and he will stop, or connect the lines and pull up both feet
—as seen in illustration. Let him rest often and feed some small ears
of corn occasionally. Give each one this lesson for two or three days,
each one separately, and do not try to teach them but one thing at a
time, ‘‘ to start” and then *‘tostop” at the command. Afterthey will
do this you may commence by teaching to ‘‘ haw” drive the near one
alone as before, around center pole to the left and say ‘‘ haw,” at the
same time tap him on the neck about the ears Do not strike him
hard as he does not know what you want of him yet. Teach him
‘thaw ” thoroughly. Then take the off steer, drive him around the
pole and say ‘‘ haw,” and tap him on the rump. You can easily make
him go around,.as the rope on his head is around the pole and if he gets
mad he cannot hook you or fight, as you have him by the head and
feet. Next learn the near one to ‘‘ gee,” by driving around the pole to
the right and say ‘‘gee,” and tap him on the rump; and then the off
one ‘‘ gee” by driving the same and saying ‘‘gee,” and tap him on
the neck about the ears. This should take from four to six days, and
if you are persevering and patient your steers will know more in this
time than if driven a month hap hazard out in the field or road. Now
yoke them together. Place rope on near one as seen in Illustration
No. 60, and they can easily be driven around the pole to the left (or

fot
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ILLUSTRATION No. 60.

taught to ‘‘ haw” together) by tapping them in the proper places with
the whip. Now place the rope upon the off one and around the pole,
and drive them around the pole to the right, by giving the word ‘‘ gee”

ig Benet hvay eae tee Seaa RPC! ANP MILAM NS Gey Deter hk

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 119

and tapping them in the proper places as given in first lessons. Steers
trained in this way will learn more in the same time and drive better,
in my experience, than can be done in any other way. I once owned
a pair of steers trained in this way. I never used anything heavier
than a light, whalebone horse whip. They took first premium at every
fair they were taken to and were sold in the spring that they were com-
ing three years old for $150. This shows what a good pair of well-
matched, well-trained steers are worth. In handling steers, as in
horses, meny men are in too much of a hurry. They want to make‘an
old ox of a young steer, and if he does wrong they will whip him most
unmercifully, and often ihjure if not spoil him for work entirely.

What the Ox Would Say.

When fat, my fiesh is wholesome and quite sweet,
And the scripture says it is good to eat;
With divided hoof, in the mire I work complete,
Give nutritious food, kind treatment and every request I’1l meet.

I prefer the trip ropes, I would humbly say,
For education vs. whipping, every day;
It doesn’t take near so long that way;
I am ‘‘slow to comprehend,”’ whip hard, oh, no! I pray.

The Balky Steer or Ox,

This fellow has been loaded so he could not draw the load, or by
wearing a yoke too small or too large has had a sore neck and refused
to draw. His driver not knowing how to start him, has whipped him
and he has become so accustomed to the whip he will not mind it. Do
not whip him. Place a three-fourths inch rope around his horns (or
neck), thence down around his nose ina half hitch knot and put a
handkerchief in each nostril, and pull upon the rope, and as he cannot
breathe he will start, or get upif he islying down. This wil) never
fail in cases of sullen or balky oxen. I have heard of piling a.cord of
rails on an ox when he lied down, holding him there. This will not
always work.. [saw aman once, in Texas, whip an oxen with a club
until I could stand it no longer. I went to him and asked him if he
would let me try and see if [could make him get up. (He thought he
ought to be killed.) I took a rope, and after giving him a drink of
water which he swallowed greedily, 1 placed it upon him so as to
smother bim, and tightened it up, and asked the owner not to whip
him. Ina few moments he got up on his feet and worked all right.

120 EDWARD'S PRACTICAL

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The Ox or Steer That Will Not Back.

Place around his head a Hght traee chain and attaeh a rope to the
free end about ten inches from the head; take him upon a barn floor
and standing directly in front of him say ‘‘ baek,” and give him a tap
straight down his forehead by raising the rope in the hand and throw-
ing it downward and backward. The steer should be taught to back
upon the barn floor with short bow-top whip, tapping him on the front
jegs and down on the floor in front of him. H he will not baek, the
above wethod will not fail to make him obey. Place the chain upom
him so it will lay straight down his forehead. Teach hin to back well
before placing him on aload to back. Then a light load at first.

To Prevent Turning The Yoke.

Many a pair of wetl-inatched steers are spoiled for a good price by
having one of their tails pulled off from tieing their tails together while
breaking to prevent them turning the yoke. This need never happen
if you will follow these instructions. Take two good, stout sireingles
or rOpes and tie them around the steers at the flank or just in front of
the hips (after placing the yoke upon them), tie a good rope to the out-
side bow of the off ox, thenee back under the rope that is around him,
around behind and under the rope on the near one the same and then
tie snugly to his outside bow. This will form a harness that they ean-
not possibly turn a yoke in and in no danger of pulling out the tails.
It is a good plan to have the sireingles quite snug and a ring on the
outside of each one to run the rope through, so it will not drop down
too low. They should wear the cireingles or ropes around them sey-
eral times before being yoked, so they will get used to them.

To Make Steers Come Under the Yoke.

After your steers have been handled so thoy are quite handy, it
looks well to have them go around each other and come under the
yoke, stopping on either side, either hawing or geeing around. Tie one
steer to the center pole with yoke in place and rope upon the other,
then tap him with whip and lead him around to the plaeé where he
started from. By repeating this a few times he will readily obey you
and come under the yoke. You may tie the yoke to the center pole
about the right helght for them to come under if you wish,

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. : 121

To Train Of Steer to Gee Around and
Near One to Haw Around at the
Same Time.

Take them upon barn floor and tie off one to center pole, place a
rope upon the near one, stand behind and a little to one side and say
** Duke,” or whatever his name may be, and tap him about the ears
and lead him around to the left. Work in this way until he will haw
around and come back to his place. Now tie near one to place, rope
upon off one and teach him to go around by standing behind anda
little to off side, tapping him with the whip about the ears, saying
“gee, Dime,” leading him around atthe same time. Practice in this
way for some time, then stand behind and say ‘‘ Duke!” to the near
one and tap him about the ears and immediately after he starts, say
‘‘gee, Dime!” That is using their respective names. Tap the off one
about the ears and they will both come around.facing you. Stop and
earess them, and repeat, and they will soon go around to the place
where they started from. Your success in this will depend upon your
skill and ability to handle the whip properly, not in striking hard
blows but in tapping them about the ears and rump at the right time.
In selecting steers, get those with round, open eyes like the large end
of an egg, instead of sinall, protruding eyes like the small end of an
egg. Lop-horned steers are liable to be moderate, while thuse with
high horns are more apt to be fast or lively, and the steer having the
feather or quirl (as it is called) down below the eyes on the forehead is
said to be ill tempered, and some say ‘‘ Horse’s” I. E. To have a pair
of steers *‘ handy,” as it is termed, they should be handled when year-
lings and taught the commands to start, stop, etc., but never loaded
with anything heavier than a sinall sled or cart. A man that owns a
pair of well-matched, trusty oxen or steers may always feel proud of
them and command a good price at any time.

The Runaway Steers.

Place upon them the trip ropes, as seen in Jilustration No. 59. Take
them to wagon or place where they can run, and be sure to have your
trip ropes long enough so you can get some distance away. If they
start, say whoa, and if they do not stop bring their noses to the ground
by pulling upon the ropes. Do not whip them now, but take them
back and try them once more. By repeating a few times you can

break the worst pair of runaway steers.
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122 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

Handling Steers’ and Oxen’s Feet. |

Handle his feet the same as described for the horse except in hand-
ling his hind feet. P lace aring in stable behind him, and run the line ~
from his hind foot through it instead of through ring tied tu his tail.
This will also teach them not to kick when they get the chain around
their feet, etc. Do not hold the foot too long at first and he will soon
allow you to take up his feet and handle in any way.

To Work Wild Steer with Gentle One.

Train the gentle one well, then give the wild one some training and
hitch to the break sulky. Teach him to go alone, and then he will go
all right with the other one. If he lies down or sulks, apply the
smothering nose piece and sinother him as described formerly. Do
not hitch him with the other (or gentle steer) until he will drive well
alone. Use whip carefully and give commands to compare with the
way they will be used when yoked double. Keep the trip ropes or
lines upon him, and at any time he tries to run, bring his nose to the
ground. Use judgment in tripping; do not trip too often or give him
too long continued lessons, as he may get discouraged and refuse to
to obey, when if not tired and worried would work allright. <A steer
gets tired and discouraged easier and quicker than a horse, and com.
prehends slower. i

‘The Lazy Ox or Sluggard.

Remove the bit from an ordinary blind bridle, and put in its place
a nose band or strap, long enough to pass around the nose like a hal-
ter. Place this upon him so he cannot see all that is going on behind
him; then put a small brad or tack in the butt end of a whip, and let
an assistant (if needed) walk along by his side. When you speak his
name, slightly prick him just back of the front leg or elbow joint. A
few lessons of this kind will teach him to work up at the word and will
not injure him like constant whipping, causing him to be more slug-
gish than ever. If you are working a very wild steer with a gentle
one it might be well to place this blind halter on the wild one for a
time, and then if he is too fast, blind fold him fora time. No horse
or ox will run very fast if blind-folded so he can see nothing.

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 123

Safe Device for Handling Bulls.

This device for handling bulls has proven
convenient, durable and safe. It is simple, .
and any blacksmith can very quickly make
one. Put it on and let it remain on as long
as the bull is being handled. It is not inthe
way of anything or at any time. It needs no
explanation. Lead with a rope or staff and
hitch in the nose ring or above as you see fit.
Have a heavy, stout, harness snap put on the
end of the chain to hitch in the ringin the
nose, 2nd another snap to hitch the ring half

ILLUSTRATION NO. 61. way between the horns. Fit a ring on the
horns under the nubs. If any bull is too

harsh for common brass nubs and tears them off, have a blacksmith
mnake a heavy iron nub with a heavy thread that will stand the racket.

How to Break Kicking Cow.

Place upon her Spanish halter or war bridle. This is made by :
taking a small stout rope and makea loop large enough to fit nicely
around the under jaw. Pass the loop over her neck, then place it in
her mouth and pass the other end through the loop. Teach her to
lead by giving side pulls upon the bridle (around center pole if you
wish) until she will lead well. Do not puil hard or steady, but give a
light pull and immediately slacken so she can not pull upon you, and
learn your weakness. She should be in small yard to teach this, (be
sure to nave plenty of rope.) If she kicks when milking, look well to
the cause—she may have thin sensative skin or sore teats or some
cause of fear or pain not readily discovered. The heifer never knew
anything about kicking until frightened or hurt in some way. Be
careful, kind and quiet about her. Handle her when quite young if
you intend to keep her for a milch cow and repeat the lessons. Do
not kick or strike her. If she kicks while milking, (and you have
taught her to lead) take your pail and proceed to milk while the bridle
is upon her, and if she trys to kick give a light pull upon bridle and
' repeat until she ceases kicking while you milk (with one hand and hold
the ;ope with the other.) If very be.d’some one can sit down to milk
while you hold the rope and if she kicks, correct her in the mouth and
she willstop. Now sit down to milk withthe rope bridle on and across
your lap. If she attempts to kick you ean easily stop her by a little
tremble on the rope. You will-be successful in handling by this plan.
Neither Mr. Slow Poke nor Mr. Hurry Up should ever be allowed to
milk a good cow.

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124 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL ‘

Cows That Will Not Stand While Being
Milked.

Place upon her the trip lines, as described and seen in Jllustration
No. 59. Sit down to milk and lay the lines aeross your lap. If she
starts to run, seize the lines and pull up both feet, do not whip her.

Slack up on the lines, pet and caress her, and proceed to milk. Ifshe |

tries to run away again, stop her by pulling up both feet again which
will bring her nose to the ground. You can teach any cow to stand in
this way as she will soon find out if she runs you ean stop her, and in
a way to make a lasting impression upon her mind that ‘‘stand still” is
what she must do. This may also be applied to the cow that kicks
and then runs.

The Fence Breaker.

For fence breaking cow or ox, place upon the device as described
for handling unruly bull. They can eat and drink but cannot hook
or tear the fence down with head or horns. See Illustration No. 61.

Cow that Sucks Herself—How to Break.

Take the ‘“‘eribbing” or ‘‘biting” preventive described in the book

for horses, invert it or place it on upside down; thatis, place the leath- -

er over the nose instead of under chin and fasten to a good fitting five
ring halter. It may be necessary to make the sides and leather a little
larger, for some cattle have larger noses than most horses. Have
the side pieces run down a little lower then when on the horse, she can
eat but cannot suck herself.

The Choked Cow.

lf choked with oats or dry feed place a pole in some place conven-
ient to make her jump over and drive her over it pack and forth, each
time raising the pole a little ‘higher. This will have a tendency to
loosen the substance and give relief. I have relieved horses in this
way. If anything should be lodged in the throat like an apple or solid
substance of any kind, take a piece of wire the size of telephone wire
and bend it double making it the shape of an egg or cipher on one end.
Insert this end through a clevise or bowling iron placed in the cows
mouth and gradually work it down and around the obstacle and then

‘Ap i NS ie hay i ian
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PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 125

draw itout. 1 have used this wire and removed pieces of pumpkin
ete., from the throats of choked cows. See there are no rough places
on the wire. There isno danger of pushing this through the throat as
it is round at the bottom and will spring when it strikes the obstacle
or sides of the throat, so there is not the danger asin using a stick or
whip stalk.

&

Breaking the Heifer.

In breaking the heifer, you must be systematic, gentle and firm.
If you are kind and firm she will know it; if you are a coward she will
find it out, and try to master you. Take hold of the teat with one
hand, pressing against the flank with the head and as you commence to
milk, if she kicks, donot let loose of the teat but push against her with
strength steadily, as pressing against her will have a tendency to stop
ber kicking and ward off the blows so she will not hit you. She will
soon learn that you are not there to hurt her, and will submit to be
milked all right. If it seems to give her pain or hurt her to milk, wash
the teats with warm water, and milk easy and slow until she gets ac-
eustomed to it. Try your best te determine whether it is pain caused
by milking or her determination to get rid of you that makes her kick
or act restless.

Hints to Dairymen.

Salt often; pear the finger nails short or close and keep them so;
qilk rapid, but not in so much of a hurry that you do not milk quite
clean; do not strip any more than possible between the thumb and fin-
ger; milk clean but do not prolong the stripping. Equalize the time be-
tween milking whether you milk twice or three times a day, Let one
person milk the same cow or cows for a season, it will make much dif-
ference in the production of butter and milk. A heifer should be
milked well up to the birth of her second calf, she should not go dry
more than four or six weeks.

Sore or Cracked Teats..

- Should be anointed with ‘‘Carbolated Cosmoline” (which may be
made as per receipt,) and the milk drawn with silver milk tubes to
prevent opening the cracks or partly healed fissures. These tubes can
be obtained by addressing, H. D, Thatcher, Pottsdam, New York.

\

126 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

Price 50 cents. or $2.00 for four. If you eannot obtain these tubes,
take the quills from a small fowl’s wing or tail, cut them the proper ”
Jength (that is so they will enter the teat about % the Jength upward,}
cut a small hole on either side or cut the end off. Smooth the end
and place them in the teat small end upward. ‘They wi.l answer, but

the silver tubes are far preferable. These tubes can and have been ~

used successfully in milking, you can milk in five to eight minutes
and no harm done. They are of especially great value when the teats
are cracked or tender, as you milk the cow clean and give her no pain.

Inflamed Udder,

This may occur at any time. Is usually caused by cold and is most
likely to make its appearance after parturition, especially if the cow
has stood in a cold place or current of cold air. In the first stage a
cold spot will be found by passing thehand over the udder. This,
however, is rarely ever noticed by the average farmer or dairyman.
Rub all around, this cold spot well to restore cireulation, with the
hand, and bathe with the following Wormwood Oil Liniment. Oil
wormwood, 1 onnee; oil organum, 1 ounce; powdered saltpeter, 1
ounce; extract witch hazel, 8 ounces; alchohol, 5ounces. Shake well
each time before using. If no attention is given, in about twenty-four
hours this cold spot will become hot, inflamed and swollen, it is now
in the second stage, and will be quite sensative to the touch. Bathe
the parts well with hot brine as hot as the hand ean be borne in it,
and rub dry, rubbing from the inflamed part each way to draw the im-
pacted blood corpuscles from the inflamed part Continue the rubbing
for one half hour, whenthe Wormwood Oil Liniment should be ap-
plied and again rubbed dry. Give this attention at least twiee each
day and you will bring about acure. In the ».eantime the milk must
be cleanly drawn at least twice a day. If there is a lump in the teat
or it is swollen so the milk will not flow, it must be drawn off with sil-
ver tube. Now should the milk be so coagulated that it will not flow
through the milk tubes, inject one pint of warm water, in whieh one
teaspoonful of baking soda (or bicarbonate of soda) has been dissolved.
To do this you may need the assistance a veterinarian who has a
syringe of the proper size and shape. In such cases the milk must all
be drawn or the teat will surely be lost.

we

Bloated Cow or Calf.

Bloating may be caused by over-feeding, or change of feed given
in large quantities. Give a cow three table spoons full of soda (or sale-

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 127

ratus) in one quart of warin water, and repeat in thirty minutes. If not
relieved add two dessert spoons full ef turpentine, using milk in place
of water. Fora calf give one table spoon full of saleratus in one pint
of warm water, and repeat the same if not relieved in thirty minutes.
One of the best things { ever saw to give medicine with, either to horses

or cattle, is a tin bottle with along neck. This may be made double

so it will net dent or break, and can be easily used 10 heat medicine in
on the stove when necessary; there is also no danger of getting glass
in the animals throat or stomach, thereby causing death. The United
States veterinary spoon is also very convenient. For sale by all first-
elass dealers in horse goods.

The Teeth of Cattle.

Cattle have thirty-two teeth when full grown. I have counted,
however, only twenty-eight in several. The following shows their
number and position: Upper jaw—Incisors, none; molars, 12. Lower
jaw—-In@isors, 8; molars, 12. Total 32.

To Cure Garget, or Caked Udder.

Give two drachms of iodide of potash, dissolved, with bran mash or
‘cut feed, morning and night. Wash the bag well with warm water,
and then rub dry with camphorated oil. Continue the iodide of pot-

ash until all traces of the difficulty disappear, which will take in most

cases two or three days.

f

Lice on Horses or Cattle.

These pests may be easily exterminated by the free use of insect
powder, blown into the hair with a powder gun. Give them a thor-
ough dusting all over the head, neck, shoulders, back and clear down
to the bottom of the tail. Repeat in eight or ten days. A second
dusting thoroughly applied will make clean work.

For large blue lice take 2 quarts linseed oil; 1 pint kerosene; 3
pounds sulphur. Mix well and rub into the hair thoroughly once a
week and they will disappear.

128 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

a . ay .
Marks of a Good Cow. the
She is long in her face and fine in the horn, ;
She’ll quickly get fat with but little corn A

She is clear in her jaw, she is full in her chin,
She is heavy in flank and widen her loin.

She is broad in her ribs and long in her rump, .
A straight, flat back with never a hump,
She is wide in her hips and calm in her eye.
p , She is firm in her shoulder and thin in her thigh.

She’s light in her neck and small in her tail, j -
She’s wide at the breast and first at the pail,
She’s fine in her bone and silky of skin,

She’s a grazier’s without and a butcher’s within.

To tell the age o* cattle by the horns you may. as a rule. count
three years for the first ring and one year for each succeeding ring. if
the animal has no horns you may determine the age by the teeth the
same as horses, only they shed and fill in six months sooner than the
horse. That is, a ealf eighteen months old has two permanent ineisors
or nippers on the lower jaw, and at two years old has four perraanent
incisors; three past, six; four past, eight, or a full mouth. Fron
five to eight years old they are smooth and quite closely set together,
and from eight to twelve they become smaller and bear marks of wear
and stand apart, and sometimes are partly gone.

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Training Dogs, :

The dog is the most intelligent of all the smaller domestic ant
mals. He is easy to teach, and if properly used is a willing and faith-
fal servant of man. You will find it a pleasure to give an intelligent
dog his education from first to last. Never try to train an old dog—he
knows too much to be educated. It is not what he does not know but
what he does know that makes it impossible to teach an old dog. For
instance, an old dog might hide or sneak away to get off duty, but the
young dog will not unless you teach him ‘I will give a few lessons in’
trick teaching, sufficient I think to lead the operator to practiec more.

There are three rules that must be observed—patience, kindness,
and perserverence. There are of course as many different traits and “
dispositions in dogs as there are breeds, and judgment must be used in
selecting a dog suited to your requirements. For instance, a shepherd
will drive sbeep, a setter scent birds and a terrior eateh rats without
much training, the St. Bernard is a good watchdog, the spaniel takes
to water from birth. So be careful not to foree a dog to do what is
not his nature.

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PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 129

The Shepherd Dog.

Get a well bred dog six months old, and keep him away from
everyone, and where he will hear no words with a meaning intended
to be attached, except his own name. Every time you come near him
eall him by name, and he will soon learn it. Now take him on the
barn floor with no one present but yourself. Place a strap upon his
neck that will not slip off, attach 8 or 10 feet of cord and teach him to
lead by pulling on the cord, and say ‘‘here”, This is all that should
be taught the first day or two. If he is very large and hard to teach,
tie this cord around his hind leg. The next thing to teach is to go
from you, to the right and left as you motion you hand, and say ‘‘go
on.”’ x .

To teach him to do this thoroughly and quickly there is only one
way. Place a ring and staple on the right side of the room, as seen in
illustration No. 62, one on the left hand side, and one at each end.
Now place two separate cords upon your dog. Run one through the
ring at one end of the room and the other through the ring. at the
Opposite end, as seen by dotted lines. Take a good supply of small
:* pieces of fresh meat, and say ‘“‘go on”, and motion and point from you
. directly to the ring. With the other hand draw upon the cord, and

oe as he has been taught to lead he will go that way. Now tell him to
“come here.” If he does not come, pull lightly on the cord fastened
in the opposite side of the room, This will lead him back to you. Then
caress and feed him bits of meat. Do not attempt to teach another

ILLUSTRATION No. 62.

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130 j EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

thing until he will do this as you point your finger and say ‘*go on,”
and comes at the word ‘‘here.” ie
If you wish to teach him to ‘‘s:op”, tell him to ‘‘go on” and as he ©
gets a little way from you say ‘‘stop”. If he does not do so you can
stop him with the cord. Repeat until he will stop at the word.
The next thing to teach him is to go from right to left at the mo-
tion of the hand. Place the cords through the rings as seen in Il]us-—
tration No. 62, and as you motion say ‘‘that way” for him to go to the
right or ‘‘this way” for the left, using the respective hand forthe way
you wish him to go, and he will soon learn. If he refuses, you can
make him go by cords. Now take him out into a Jarge yard and !epeat

these lessons day after day until he will obey perfectly. a

Now you would like to teach him to g> ahead or behind while
driving. This can only be done by practice. You will need one or
two calves to do this as they are not as apt to kick, hook or fight as
older animals. Place the cord upon him and go around with him,
driving the calves slowly about the yard. Tell him to ‘‘go on” and
point to them. As he approaches, steady him with the cord and say
“‘bark,’ and if he has got much Shepard abvuut tim he will bark and
bite at them. Watch him closely that he doesn’t get kicked. By
repetition you can teach him that when you say ‘‘go on back” he will
go to heels. You can teach him to go ahead by giving the word and
motion. Give short lessons of thirty minutes at first. :

If he will not mind the word you may tie aloop in the cord and
drop it over a post and just before he gets to the end of it, say ‘‘stop”,
and it will change ends with him in a way that will make a lasting im-
pression on him, and will not make a coward of him as whipping will,
do. Never strike a dog, especially a shepard, when he comes to you,

even if he has done wrong—it will mike a coward or sneak .of him.

Never try to teach a young dog with an old one. One dog does not
know enough to teach another dog, and will in most cases do harm. If
he gets reckless or too fast, place upon him the cross-leg harness as
seen on horse in illustration No. 44, and see that it is properly adjust-
ed. Or place asmall strap around him as a girth and tie a stout cord
to a small ring; pass a small strap through this ring; buckle to his
front leg; pass cord over the girth. If he refuses to stop you can re-
mind hiw by pulling on the cord, which may be very long yet so light
it will not hinder him in running. Don’t try to teach the shepherd
other tricks while teaching him to drive, as this is a very impor
lesson and should have the first impression.

The Bird Dog or Pointer.

Make a selection from as pure breed as possible. Now to train.
this dog well you will need to give him the lessons as seen in illustra-

A
Fe me INIT

"PROGRESSIVE HORSEMAN SHIP. fi 131

tion No. 62 and teach him thoroughly ton go by the motion of the
hand. After he will do this readily procure one or two pigeons or
other birds of proper size and tie the legs, then with cord tie in the
bushes. Now take your gun loaded with blank catridges and proceed
with a cord upon your dog to the spot where the birds are tied, and as
you draw near to them motion with the hand and say ‘‘go on” and if
he is wuch of a bird dog he will begin to scent them and go in the di-
rection where they are; say steady, and steady him with the cord and
as he gets quite close to the bird give him a chance to point, then fire
the gun, having formerly familiarized him to report of guns, then
motion for him to go on and as he goes to the bird do not allow him to
tear or bite it, but hold out the hand and with the cord teach him to
bring the bird to you. As he makes an attempt to carry it caress and
pet him and with a few lessons of this kind your dog will go and get
any bird you shoot and you can direct him by the motion of the hand.
You will choose words in training suited to your fancy such as ‘‘come in”
or “‘here” and ‘charge” or “‘liedown” ete Give this lesson as with
the Shepherd first, that is before you teach him tricks of any kind. I
trained a bird dog in this way onee, and sold for faney price. I taught
this dog many tricks gnd he wasa fine pointer. The gentlemen that
bought him took him out one day and came back with seventeen wild
duck. Now if you wish to test him to know whether he will scent and
follow a bird or not take the bird out in a clean field and as you walk
along touch the bird to the ground at short intervals for some distance,
going first i in one direction and then in another, finally tying it fast to
the branch of a tree, and by closely watching him after he starts to
scent the bird you can decide whether he is the dog for you or not.

é

To Teach a Dog to Watch,

The object is to have a dog that will bark when an uncommon
noise is nade in the night. He should have a certain place to sleep
and be made to know it by tying him there at night. He will soon go to
his bed when night comes on Place a large bone (the leg of a beef is
good) by his nest or house and have some one climb over the fence and
make some noise while you stay by him and set him on and encourage
‘him and if he has got any grit he will bark or growl. Repeat this for
several times and he will soon know that when anyone is about in the
night he must bark and it would not be safe for a stranger to enter the
yard or barn with a good watch dog after he had taken a few lessons
oi this kind. Never give these lessons only at night time.

ty a Se Dee LS. ‘ Le. ee ta |

132 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

j To Teach a Dog to Jump Througha Hoop, —

. First place him in a box and caus? him to jump out by snapping — :
the finger and saying ‘‘up.” Now hold the hoop in front of him and ~
give him the word ‘‘up” and he will jump through the hoop as he :
jumps out of the box and will soon jump through it when held infront _
of him. Mig

To Teach a Dog to Sit Down.

y This is easily done, call him to you and with one hand slap him on

4 : the back while with the other you slap him lightly under the jaw, this:

ae will soon cause him to sit down. Now is the time to teach him to

i give his paw, or shake hands. This you can easily do by snapping the
i :

foot with the finger and touching him alternatively upon the foot and
under the jaw. He will soon hold up his foot and shake hands.

Sa SP:

To Teach Him to Sit Up.

After he will sit down and shake hands make him sit up ‘by hold
ing one foot and tapping him at the same time under the jaw with the
other hand. If he falls over sit him up against the wall and say sit up.
and he will soon sit up. Then gradually take him away from the wall
and he will sit up anywhere. Always feed and caress him every time
he does this or any trick you wish to teach him. ieee

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To Teach a Dog to Catch Food When __
Laid Upon His Nose. : j

First teach him to catch it by dropping it into his mouth. After
he will catch it well this way, place a small piece upon his nose (fresh
tneat is good), while you hold his head still with the left hand by the
under jaw, count three, let loose of him and he will generally catch it.
If not attach a string to it and as you let loose of his jaw jerk up on the
string and he will soon know he must toss his head to catch the food.

°

ee —— Si

— Se =

To Teach a Dog to Find Things.

He must first be taught to go and bring jthings to you, such as a i
ball or an apple. After he will do this readily you may place the ball
in a pile of straw or shavings and tell him to find it, and if hehas got

e

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. — 133

a good scent he will find it. You can write his name on a block of

wood and place it in a basket with other blocks, and he will get the
right one. If he makes mistakes pinch his ear a little and ene him
go back and get the right one..

I think these are a sufficient number of Etnies to set forth the
most important rules which govern the teaching of dogs.. There are
always a great many tricks which you may teach your dog if you com-
mence when he is young and use patience, kindness and perseverence.

2

The bridle in illustration No. 63 is to be used with Edwards’

bit, when you can obtain one, but in case you cannot obtaina bridle,

the straps marked 1 and 2 may be used to place the bit upon an ordinary
bridle or halter, using straps number 1 to buckle to the levers, thence
to the brow band or crown piece; using straps like No. 2 to buckle bit
fast on each side, you can make a breaking bridle with very little ex-
pense. See Illustration No. 63.

Oe rics
is ffl - sl \

yy Po” DSN

Pe. ‘ fl A »

ry

ILLUSTRATION NO. 63.

The Kuenhold Manufacturing Company, Newark, N. J., arethe
manufacturers of the bit. Every bit is tested before leaving the manu-
facturers, :

Error.

Coming under the heading of ‘‘ How to stop a horse frow biting or

tearing the blanket, biting while grooming, crib biting, etc.,” page 82,
see Illustration No. 64, which illustration was by pitas not number ed,
consequently omited in its proper place.

ILLUSTRATION No. 64.

Hints to Future Trainers.

In response to your request for a few hinis to those who would
become horse-trainers, I would say that I know of no absolute rules
for accomplishing that end. In England they apprentice a boy to a
horse trainer to learn that profession the same as they would for any ©
other trade If I was going to advise a boy on the subject, A would” 7)
say first he must have a natural love for the horse in his character, i
sy: and then the determination to learn, and the harder he applies him-
self the better for him. The younger he commences the better, g
and to be an expert he wants to commence at ‘‘the lower round of 3
the ladder,” that is, to learn how to groom and properly care for a
horse. While this part of his education is going on he must not
neglect his school-books. It is not necessary that he should have a |
college course, but it is absolutely necessary for his suecess that he
should have a good business education. An education will help to
expand his mind and learn him to think, and I know of no profession’
that requires more thinking than to train a large stable of horses suc-
cessfully. Another very important feature in a trainer is his personal
conduct and manner. Study tu be a gentleman at all times, dress well,
use good language, and remember one thing, that no man ean be sue-
cessful who is addicted to strong drink. If a man wants to learn to
be a physician he takes a course in some medical college, attends the
lectures and studies, and after a certain amount of practice, is given a
diploma. Unfortunately for horse trainers, there are no schools of __
that kind for their business, they have to learn in a haphazard sort of
, away. So that every trainer is really obliged to learn by actual ex-
perience Never get impatient and think you are not learning fast
enough. ‘‘Go slow, and be sure you are right’ is a rule that has won

x
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———
as

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a ee en Se 8 eS ee.

Ste op a

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PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 133

many a close race. By connecting yourself with a trainer who has a
large stable, if you are a close observer you will learn faster than any
other way that I know of. Remeinber you are not there simply te
earn wages, but to improve yourself as well.

| Points About Horses.

There are certain inarked points in a good horse. You can see
br-adth and fullness between the ears and eyes. You couldn’t hire
that horse to act ean or hurt anyoody, The eye should be full, and
hazel is a good color. I like a small, thin ear, and want a horse to
throw his ears well forward. Look out for the horse who wants te
Jisten to ail conversation going on behind him. The horse that turns
back his ears till they almost meet at the points, take my word
for it, is sure to do something wrong. See that straight, elegant
face. A horse with a dishing face is cowardly, and a cowardly horse
is usually vicious. ‘Then I like a square muzzel, with large nos-
trils, to let plenry of air to the lungs. For the under side of the
head, a good horse should be will cut under the jowl, with jaw bones
broad and wide apart under the throttle.

‘*So much for the head.”

~The nex! thing is the build of the animal. Never buy aiong leg-
ged, stilty horse. Let him have a short, straight back and a straight
rump, and you've got a gentleman horse. The withers should be
high and the shoulders well set back and broad; but don’t get them
to deep in the chest. The fore leg should be short. Give mea pretty
straight hind leg, with a hock low down, short pastern joints, and a
round inulish foot. There are all kinds of horses, but the horse that
has these points is almost sure ‘o be slight], graceful good-natured
and serviceable.”

EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

The Jockey Boy.

COMPOSED BY C. L. EDWARDS.

There’s not a trade that’s going
That has so good a showing, !
Or that’s really worth knowing,
Like that from glory growing
For the bold ‘‘Jockey Boy.”’

Where right or left we go

Ah! sure you all know

Your friend or foe

Will have the weighted toe
Like the bold ‘Jockey Boy.’’

While going up the street
Every pretty girl you meet
Will look so cute and sly
And say as you wink your eye:
“Oh, isn’t he a dandy “Jockey Boy!”

But when we come in stout,
How some of them will shout,
And some of them will pout,
While to the right about
He turns his steed,the bold “Jockey Bey.””

Oh! ’tis then that ladies fair

In unutterable dispair,

Will always pull their hair—

Bat never a bit dol care,
Says the bold “Jockey Boy.’’

For the world is before us.
And the land-lords adore us,
And don,t refuse to score us,
But chalk up in chorus

With the bold “Jockey Boy.’’

We tip our riding eap,
And taste his champaign tap:
Oh, that’s the chap
That drove Black Mack:
Oh, isn’t he a daisy “‘ Jocky Boy.”

Then come along with me,
Axtell, Maud S. and J. 1. C.;
And here comes Sunol, I. E.,
How happy you will be

With your bold ‘‘ Jockey Boy.”

Faith if you’re up to fun,

To either trot or run,

’Twill be very surely done

In the snapping of a gun,
Says the bold ‘* Jocky Boy.”’

And ’tis then without scandal}
You may proudly handle
A trotterjthat can scramble
By the light of lamp or candle.
“T ean doit,” says the bold “ Jockey Boy.”

May your light shine
Bright for all time
Until with worthy praise
You will brightly blaze _
To the glory of a Jockey in a 2-minute race-

RMR eT tne hee wale Ree
, wastes uth be ¥, Ph T

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. . 137

Sickness and Disease--Recipes to Cure
oe ee Same.

it is my desire to give a few simple, harmless remedies for the cure
of those diseases most common, and need aid only powerful enough
} to assist nature in throwing them off. AsI do not profess to under-
ei stand theanatomy of the horse, and claim no veterinary qualifications,
I will not make a veterinary book, but the few simple remedies I shall
give will prove effectual in each and every case when timely used. I.
BY: read in a certain Professor’s book that every man who ever wrote a
et book on horse training has culled a lot of recipes and formulas for the
i treatment of diseases from various sources and printed them in his
book, etc. I would like the pleasure of showing said professor several
BY books on the education of the horse that I have, eachof which has not
one single recipe in them of any kind or form. At the same time this
y does not cause me to falter in placing before you a few remedies by
% the use of which some one may be benefited and the suffering animal
relieved.

a i

_ Cleansing Powders for the Blood,

Take one part pulverized saltpeter, one part pulverized sulphur,
and one part pulverized sarsafras, mix well and giveone table spoon

4 ful once a day in feed. You may use one one part of cream tartar in
a place of sulphur in hot weather, or one part ginger in cold weather if
f you wish. :
q ca
4

. Wind Colic.
i ; Take one tea spoonful turpentine, twotable spoonsful saleratus,
ye one table spoonful pulverized saltpeter, shake well in one quart of

a warm water and drench. Repeat the dose in thirty minutes if neces-
q sary. (This recipe cost $50, first bought of an old English veterina-
- rian.) — hie

4 Spasmodic Colic.

The symptoms in this case are more violent, throwing themselves
down, sometimes becoming unmanagable, rear and strike, ete. If pos-
sible consult a veterinary. If your horse needs immediate attention
and no veterinary can be had, give him 1 oz. spirits ammonia in one>

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138 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

quart milk, shake well and drench, For colt three months old give pes
oz. in one pint milk; for colt six months old give } oz. in one pint milk.

Always give in milk and shake well, repeat in thirty minutes if neces-

sary.

' Cough Remedy.

Take one part each of tar, pure lard, and N. UO. molasses, place in —

a kettle and heat slowly until well dissolved. Stir while heating, then
let it cool and stir well while cooling so the parts wil) not separate.
Give one table spoonful morning and night after feeding. A good

way to give this is to bind it on the bit with cloth and string. Can be ©

given in this way while the horse is being used or idle.

Scratches.

Most every one has a remedy for this which fails, as usually the
impure condition of the blood causes it and the cure is applied exter-
nally. Give the condition fowders, then apply a poultice of flax seed
meal and water, made in a thick paste. Let this remaip on ten or
twelve hours, then remove and wash clean with castile soap suds.
(Give a bran mash once a day, a few carrots, potatoes or something
equal.) After washing bathe well with one part each of salamoniac
and saltpeter, dissolved in eight parts of hot rain water and apply hot.
Then in one hour rub the parts carefully with dry, finely pulverized

sulphur. Repeat for two or three days and if they do not improve sat- —

isfactorily, you may anoint the parts well with salve made as follows:
Take commou window glass pulverized as fine as flour, sift through a
coarse cloth or flour seive. Mix one part of this glass dust with four
parts of melted pure lard, and stir in well while cooling. When cold
rub in the parts affected. If used as directed this will never fail. If
horse must be used, wash his ankles clean with castile soapsuds and
rub dry with clean woolen cloth before applying the remedies.

Condition Powders.

This condition powder is good for horses subject to colic, and for
horses with sour stomach from eating cut feed, which will produce
colic. They renovate the system, purify the blood, regulate the bow-
els and produce an appetite.

4 ozs. fenugreek seed, 2 ozs. elecampane, 4 0z powdered lobelia, 2

ozs. powdered licorice root, 4 0z. blood root, 4 ozs. sulphur, 1 oz. black
. ’

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 139

antomony, 4 oz. assafcetida, 4 ozs. saltpeter, 1 oz. gentian, 4 ozs. resin,
1 oz. pulverized mustard. Mix thoroughly.

This medicine is good for diseases contingent among cattle, sheep
and hogs as well as horses.

Let the age and condition of the animal govern in giving. Give a
horse of mature age one table spoonful three timesa day in feed.
Moisten the feed, then the powder will stick to it.

Sprains, Bruises, etc.

1 pt. alcohol, 1 oz. organum oil, 1 oz. camphor gum, 2 ozs. hearts-
horn, 2 ozs. laudanum, $ oz. oil cedar, $ oz. oil cloves, 4 oz. spirits tur-
pentine, 8 ozs. olive oil, 3 oz. oil tar. Shake well before using. Good

for man and beast.

Urine.

Nitra’. 15 drops. Repeat in two hours if action does not take
place by giving 25 drops, and repeat again if necessary.

Corns.

After paring away the crust of the corn hollow, a little over the
corn, apply one part each of butter of antimony and muriatic acid.-
Mix in a bottle and apply with a feather to the corn.

Scowers.

Take 1 table spoonful of black pepper, 1 table spoonful of salt,
4 pint of water, 4 pint of pure vinegar. Bring to a boil and wash the
animal across the kidneys or small of the back with it hot, then give 1
table spoonful finely pulverized charcoal in feed. If your horse is in-
clined to scowers, give the pulverized charcoal as a preventive. It can
possibly do him no harm, and will never fail if given in time.

Renew Old Age.

To make the old horse young or get up and get use 1 oz tincture of
assafeetida, 1 oz. tincture of contharides, 1 oz. oil of cloves, 1 oz. oil of

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DOF AURNGR 9 (NR SRM TE ANAC RNA ORT CT

140 POLS 5 So) Seo aa Te? PRACTICAL i"

cinnamon, 2 oz, atinony! loz fenugreek, 4 gal. proof brandy. Placet

in a jug, cork, and let stand a week and give from 8 to 10 drops in a a ‘ if

pail of water. Give alittle more or less as the case way require. te:

may be given on feed, best effect in water. i

Cribbing.

It is yet an unsettled question as to the cause of this habit. It cer
tainly is not a disease and I never have heard of acure. Some say it
is caused by toothache, others say it is brought on by improper feeding
and watering, causing as it were a kind of hiccoughs, and biting re-
lieves the pain somewhat. All the appliances I have ever seen, such

as buckling a strap snug around the throat, anti-cribbing halters, ete.,
have a tendency to chafe and irritate the animal. By using the biting
or cribbing preventive as described in this book, you may avoid this
and prevent the cribbing while in the barn or stable, and if taken in
time, may in some cases bring about a cure, and by using the extension

center piece in bit well raised, and bit somewhat lowered in horses

mouth, he will not crib. The pipe bit attachment is best for this

(though the other may be used) to prevent cribbing while hitched upon |

the street.

Itch Mange.

‘For itech mange or humors take 1 part pulverized sulphur, 1 part
pulverized black pepper, 1 part pulverized spice, 1 part pulverized salt-
peter. Stew this all together with lard enough to wake a soft oint-

ment and stir well. Apply to the parts affected with the hand thor- —

oughly and give the horse condition or blood cleansing powders. Con-
tinue and you will cure.

Breathing. |

Difficulty of breathing, from whatever source, whether feu some
disorganization or change in the lungs, or obstruction of the air pas-
sages, whatever the obstruction be it must first be traced to its cause
before good can be done. This is sometimes not easy todo, The
owner must act with judgment. Thick wind often follows pneumonia
and is caused by the closing or obliteration of a portion of the lungs,
If it does not pass away after the disease which preceded it is cured, it
nay be remedied by feeding tne animal on good sound oats, free from
dust, moistened before feeding. Feed but little hay, of first quality

r
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A
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PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. id

a

timothy moistened, carrots, mashes and sweet apples in winter suffi-
to keep the bowels properly open, and a run on fresh grass in summer
is good.

Broken Wind.
Broken wind, veliows and heaves are most often found in horses
a of mature age, the result both of disease of the lungs and violent exer
‘ tions. There are very few hoxses that can eat dusty clover hay for
- weeks and then stand a drive, without exhibiting heaves. There is no
permanent cure for this disability. Clean, sound teed, such as well
cured corn stalks with wet bran and cracked corn for grain is no doubt
as good a selection for feed as you can make. This will enable many
broken winded or heavy horses to do a fair amount of work with com-
parative ease. Never check a horse up with this difficulty, or cause
him to drive upon a tight rein. Heshould beallowed to hold his head
in .he easiest possible position. One of the most usual means of caus-
ing the animal te appear for a time sound _is to give 8 to 16 grains of
arsenic a day fora week or ten days. Commenee by giving 8 grains
and then increase daily to 12 or 16 grains. Waa, ;

Hard, Dry, Contracted Feet.

a Take of tar, lard, aleohol and turpentine, equal parts. Mix well
together and apply freely all over the hoof up te the caronet, of edges
of the hair at the top of the hoof, every night for a week. 'The apply
three or four times a week as may be necessary. If convenient, a run
on pasture for one or two month is better. - “4

s Strain or Bruise.

Take 2 ounces aimmonia, 4 ounces saltpeter, shake together in a
4 bottle with one gill good apple vinegar and one gill rain water. Apply
4 hot and rub with the hand. Moisten a cloth with some and lay on

aud bind over the parts eficcted. Keep this cloth moist with this and
continue until releived. (Good for man or beast.)

ee

q Carbolated Cosmoline Ointment.
q Carbolie acid, 1 drachm; cosmoline, 5 ounces; mix. This is one

of the best healing preparations I ever saw for sores or cuts, especially
such as after due time do not seem.to heal readily.

ee ae

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Ky
2

142 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

Calks, or Cuts.

Arnica, 1 oz.; laudanum, 1 oz. ; sassafras oil, $0z. Shake well ties.
fore using. Mb siete soft piece of linen and variduae lightly; keris
moist with mixture. . \ ae

Flesh Wounds.

In deep flesh wounds of a dangerous character, such ascutsfrora barb
wire, ete., to prevent inflamation and mortification, take pure rain wa- |
ter 2 gallons, 1 qt., proof spirits, 4 ozs., arnica, 1 lb. saltpeter. Mix
and inject into the wound with syringe three times a day. Place the a)
horse in a good comfortable box stall if the wound need to be sewed, ©
and you can not procure the assistance of a veterinary surgeon, take —
good white silk twist and a knitting needle and commence at the nar-
row part of the cut, take one stich about 4 of an inch from the termin-
us of the wound, bring the thread over and tie each stich by itself, and
so continue the stiches atout 4 of en inch apart, stiching baek about +
of an inch and draw moderately snug so as not to tear out the stich.
After the parts are swoolen, sewing is not advisable. The only means
then is to clip the hair close and use adhesive plaster in strips across
the wound to hold same together as much as possible. Trim, and apply -
above solution and feed bran mashes grass, ete., and cure can be com-
pleted if continued care and nursing are given. Give physie if horse
shows signs of constipation. Give bran mashes regular.

For physic give fron 1 pt. to 1 qt. of raw linsed oil according to
age as described in former page. If this can not be had give same of
pure lard. Never give castor oil or boiled linseed oil.

Grow Hair.

Burn some scraps of leather to a crisp and ‘pulverize fine. Take |
of same 1 part and 1 part pulverized sulphur and mix with sweet oil
enough to make a soft salve, and apply.

Carbolic Acid.

For healing preparation, use 1 oz. of carbolic acid 1 qt. rain water. a
Shake well before using. XAG

nM
e Phen
a

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 143

Bots.

Take new milk 2 qts., syrup 1 qt., mix and give tie whole in 12 or
15 minutes after. give of warm strong sage tea two qts., and in 30 min-
utes after giving the tea; give 1 qt., raw linseed oil. If this can not be
had give the same of pure lard. The symptoms of the horse with bots
is so near like that of colic in the first stages that it is hard tu deter-
mine which of the two it may be. As a rule tne horse will hold his
fiead around at his side, occasionally nipping er biteing his side, where
if he has the colic he will look around at his side and not bite. At the
same time bot flies are most plentiful, if you will apply a little grease
or oil to the parts weere they deposit the eggs you ean avoid the de-—
positing of the eggs, as they will not adhere to the oily hair.

Pin Worms.

It is best to treat these parosites with medicine that comes directly in
contact with them. This can only be done by giving injections.
Take 1 oz. catechu and 1 qt. water. When d ssolved give an injection
and repeat for one week, on the eighth day give a bran mash. At
night tollow with 4 oz aloes and 1 drealomel, Repeat the above if
necessary’ Injections of tobacco smoke will often bring about a cure.
it is the great itching caused by the pin worm that often causes the
horse to rub the hair out of the dock.

Physic Ball.

No. i aloes $ oz. eastile soap 4 oz., make into a ball with linseed
meal, and give.
No. 2. ginger 1 dr., costile soap 2 dr., barbodose aloes pulverized
6 dr., make into a ball with flaxseed meal, and give.
NOTE. In forming a ball of different ingredients if they do not make into
2 ball easily use water and flaxseed meal with same to make the ball.

Carbolic Acid in Stable.

Tnere is nothing I have ever used to equal this vile smelling com-
pound to remove stable stains from white or light colored horses. Re-

duce the acid with abuut 40 times its bulk in warm rain water and ap-
ply with clean sponge or rub, rubbing well. If the stains are old it
may require two or three applications. Carbolized water is also very
good to wash fetlocks and legs to prevent scratches. -Good for dry
seald or scurvy and a powerful disinfectant.

EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL —

Inflamed Eyes.
For inflamation of and film over the eye, to 1 qt. pure re
add 4 oz. pulverized salamoniac. Apply to the eye onee a day \
small syringe. It may be made a little stronger or weake: ccol
to the thickness of the. til and the sensitiveness of the eye, whic
_ observation will show you. If to strong the eyelids will slight
In treating both rm, use a apernre? vessel for the eye water fc
eye.

spi this recipe

ies and in sity eases will cause blindness.
$15 00 in cash. }

Colds.

ye r 4

Healing Powder.

For ese powder for collar boils, sore back, i use ° bila e¢

line ointment, , and repeat. The bearing of harness must Tbe. wept me
from the ani Waa

ozs. Mix and apply two or three times a day with a wk “Use | the: Ne a
pipe bit attachment and Juss ne age

Bone Spavin.

ulceration and bone deposit of the small fiat bones in thie lwwme a
inner part of the hock joint. It is nally one of the amet ~ rmidabl

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. : 145

diseases’ with which the horseman has todeal. The causes dre various.
In any Gdse, rest and a high “heeled shoe should be allowed. Place
your horse in a roomy box stall, cleanse the bowels and kidneys, give
bran mash onée a day. Hooke the parts well with 4 quarts of hot
. ‘water in which 2 ozs. of laudanum is thoroughly mixed. If you wish
to blister, clip the hair short over and aronnd the parts, and grease |
around under the bunch so the blister will not run down on the leg and
blister where it is not needed. Then apply with ee finger over the
bunch only the following liquid blister:

Liquid Blister. —

Také of aleohol oue pint, aquamonia 4 ozs., rub i in quite thoroughly.
If one application does not blirter, repeal two or three times until a
sweat blister is produéed, then anoint with sweet oil, and repeat onecé
a week until cured, washing every other day between the times of blis
tering with cdstile soapsuds, and anoint well with the sweet oil. This
is a mild blister and will not make a scar or remove the hair, if prop-
erly used. Be sure you are right before you apply ¢ a ‘blister’ of any
kind. Whére a horse is afflictéd with a bog spavin and a ‘bone spavin,
combined on one leg is, somietimes the case. Blistering will only make
it worse and in many cases a clire can not be atcomblished with a
blister or any other remedy.

Enlargement of the Hock.

Repeat precisely the same 4s bone spavin fomentations While in the
stage of fever or inilamation, and then sweat or liquid blister to bé
itsed as for bdné spavrn enlarged loék or any other disease of the
bones joints teridons or muscular tissues that straining of the parts is
likely to oGcur again, and great caré must be take in working or driv-
ing especially on rough ground.

Riiig Bone.

This is A deposit of bony matter above and below the coroneb ot

the foot. Just where the hair begins above the hoof or of the bone of
the hoof, as the Goffin bone is called, or a bony growth in the pasterns,
treat the sate as bone spavin, only after applying the blister; apply
a cloth over the bunch smeared with tallow to assure a strong blister.
If you think the case needs a stronger blister than can be obtained: with
the spavin blister, here is one that will blister stronger. 10 drops mu-

146 EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

riatic acid, 20 grs. corrosive sublimate, 20 grs. cai phor, 1 02. ai of
turpentine. Mix well and apply. Wash off and oil as in other blister . is
to prevent blemish, and repeat only once in two weeks. . tie

Splint. : bite

This is a peculiar enlargement generally found on the small bones re a
of the fore leg. I have never seen the cause defined. If the protuber- _ ‘
ance is small and there is no lameness, do nothing. It will disappear
by natural absorbtion as the animal inereases in years, providing there
isno exciting cause constantly at work. If a treatment is thought
necessary, observe if there be any inflamation. If any, reduce same
by cool poultice and bathe with cold water one hour each dayin which __ ;
a little salt has been dissolved, then clipthe hair from over and around
the bunch and rub on at evening the following: 1 dr. bimodide of
mereury, 1 oz. lard, well mixed. Continue this until a free watery dis-
charge is produced from the surface. Asarule this is sufficient. It
will in most cases gradually disappear from this time unless the tumor
or enlargement interferes materially with the tendons, in whieh caseit
will need the attendance of a skilled veterinary.

Curb. | :

This is swelling in the middle and just behind the lowest part of ;
the hock joint. At first it is soft, producing an enlargement about two
inches below the hock, caused frequently by a sprain or strain of the
tendon. If there be inflamation, use a cool wet bandage, absolute rest
and a high heeled shoe. If from negleet or long standing the lameness
becomes decided and a hard swelling is produced, use the liquid blis-
ter as for bone spavin and repeat once a week, always rubbing down
well with the hand before applying the bandage. Cold wateris sooth- .
ing and astringent, while warm water is Jaxative and cleansing. eee

Nine Rules For Making Money With a RE us
Trotter. |

1. Get the trotter.
2. Keep it to yourself.
' 3. Beat every one you can with him.
4. Have no one in with you unless you know he is strictly confi-
dential.

Se edt 3.
har ean
Va aR ot

Never. Beart Hine in a race until you know what he can do.
you will know how to.‘ play” him.

Never play him to win until you find out you ean.

Never deceive an owner, but take in every one else.

ou follow the above directions and do not make en do nou

BONNER E. BRISTOL.

\

. Bonner sitting down in open field,
holding cord, at the age of
two years. Taken
from life.

:

150 FDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

Testimonials.

Any one doubting the truthfulness of these testimonials van see a copy of the original i
in my possession, showing the personal signature of each and pvery one, and maa,
others which time and space will not allow us'to print. ae

Sr. Exrmo. Texas, Sept. 20, 1885.” Macepovn, N. Y. July 7 1891. pane
While Mr. C. Edwards resided in this\To whom it may concern. Soe N
county I knew him well. He purchased} Knowing the bearer Mr. C. L. Edwards
a drove of mustangs or wild horses. lof Newark, N. Y. , to bea genius at his rr
saw him handle and train several and|profession, the breaking of colts, and
afterward I assisted him in training althe handling and subduing of vicious
number. I was surprised to see him start/horses, I would 1eecommend him to
some balky horses by the use of his bitiparties who wish to place their colts in
and bridle, by using the line to slat thelthe hands of an industrious, reliable
bit against the horses mouth. He wasjand temperate man. H. eae

the first to use the forward motion of the
line here, and I used this motion of the
line as directed by him while in his em-
ploy. Isaw him ride a great many wild
horses successfully, and know of his
training one horse for Mr. Felix Miller
that was very bad to handle. He would
lie down, kick, bite and strike. Mr.
Edwards trained him in afew daysto the
astonishment of Mr. Miller and others.
to drive well. James C, VAUGHN.
East Patmyra, N.Y., Apr. 24. 1889.
This is to certify that I candidly be-
lieve Mr. C. L. Edwards has the easiest,
most complete and practical method of

educating and training horses known at),

the present time, for this reason: I am
the owner of a well-bred valuable mare,|
that has been handled by traveling pro-

Newark, N. N.Y. April 24, 1890.
Be it known that we, the following, are

acquainted prrsynally with Prof. C. L.

Edwards and exw him asa professional

age, and know that he can do all he Bs
hecan: A.A. Young, M. W.
Nutten, M. D.; W. H. Nicholoy, 1e8 Mi
F. M. Allerton. Frank Garlock, O. Cc.
Robinson, M. E. Burnham, J. E. Wiser,
Thomas Whittleton, C. W. Stuart, H. G.
Miller. J. B. Sheer, Geo. D. Ramsdell.

you.

FA1rport, Ns Y., May 1, 1891.

fessionals, andseveral other noted horse-\drove him in our presence on the street

men with all the skill and ability they

at different times with no bridle or reins

could muster to break her tostand whileupon him. He drove well without reins,
being untied, and to stop her from pull-and performed twelve tricks perfectly.

ing upon the ‘halter or bridle. I decided
to take her to Mr. Edwards. He handled
her for a few momentn, 1pPplying the
smothering nose piece. It worked toji
perfection and done her more good and
more perfect training than all she had
ever had done to her. and Iam confident;
she will not pull with it upon her, and
really believe Mr. Edwards deserves far
more credit and recompence from the
public than he has ever received. With
kind regards, I am iets yours,
C.W Lang.
Pastor Methodist polio Church.

We know of a two-year old colt that

Mr. Edwards trained him only three
months. He was trained better, beyond
a doubt, that any spirited horse ever was
in this time. He was trained to adver-
tise our Crystal Rock mineral spring
water, which is fast becoming famous
for its curative properties, and we feel
amply repaid the cost of his training.
In our estimation. Mr. Edwards has no
rivals as a Horse Trainer and educator.
Crrystat Rock WATER Co.

Warwortu. N. N.Y. Aug. 22, 1888 —
Professor C. L. Edwards.

Dear Str: The horse you trained tan

me is driving nicely, he has never tried

horseman, and believe his trained horse
“Bonner”. to be one of the marvels of the

Amos Sanford; to all of whom we refer

Prof’ G.L. Edwards trained the noted
trick horse ‘‘Crystal Rock’’ for us. He

we do not hesitate in pronouncing theto run away since you’ handled him. It
most wonderful horse we ever saw. This. done him lots of good. Hestands well to
colt belongs to Prof. C. L. Edwards, who be hitched and mindsthe word whoa. If
by his skill and ability has trained him'you can handle such horses as he was
to perform the seemingly impossibleand educate them so well in so short a
number of over fifty tricks.—Newarktime your theory is excellent beyond a
Courier. ‘doubt. E. G. Grover.

ii

PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. ; 151.

Parmyra, N. Y. Sept. 23, 1891. | Parmyra, N. Y., Oct. 17, 1891.
Becoming the owner of a St. Arnard Ihaveshed horses for the past fifty-
eolt I desired to train her. Isoonfoundfour years and know Professor C. L.
out that I could not brake her, as it was Edwards. I have shod a great many
impossible for me to even lead her. horses trained by him and never have
I met Prof. UC. L. Edwards on the streethad any trouble in shueing them. Inva-
and asked him if he would go down toriably they seem to know what is going
my barn and look ata colt Thad. Itoldon, and even mustangs stand like oid
him I could not even lead her, and inhorses to be shod, one especially, a
thirty minutes he led her perfectly. Iv cious mustang to shoe, owned by Judge
was very much surprised to see hersoL. M. Norton, of Newark, was trained
easily handled. No cords or ropes of by Mr. E. and I shod him and he stood
any kind wereused. No throwing, whirl- perfectly quiet. Ithink Mr. KH. is second
ing or whipping. Mr. Edwards then'to no one asa trainer and he hasa right
took her and trained her to drive, bothto be. I have known his father, L. Ed-
single and double, to my entire satisfact-lwards, twenty years and know of his
ion. At the same’'time I was driving an-'training some of the worst horses in the
other colt, which became badly frighten-country, always with success. If you
ed at some loose paper in the road turn-|would like to know how to teach a horse
ed around, tiped me over, and very near-jto stand to be shod, purchase one of
ly gotaway. Iimmediately took him to|Professor C. L. Edwards’ books.

Mr. Edwards and in one lesson he hitch- Won. H. D. Cotxtns.

ed and drove him into. the road into a : —

pile of loose paper, causing him to stand Newark, N. Y., April 4, 1888.

on the same with his feet repeatedly, it} This ts to certify that I assisted Prof.

being the same day he was frightened./C. L. Edwards in training thirteen

He has since drivennicely. A.R.Knapp.jhorses the past three months. The ease
—— and safety with which he trained these

Parmyra, N. Y. Dec. 14, 1892. |horses was very interesting and surpris-
Having posession of a five-year oldingtome. All of them were good horses
Hambletonian mare that wasa aesperate|that had been poorly handled and had
kicker I desired to have Prof. C. lL. Ed-|formed habits that without his method
wards handle her. I asked him if helof training would have takena long time
would allow me to see him handle herjto educate them right. Among them
and he. answered certainly. [I watcned|were balkers. kickers. bolter, runaways,
the training with much interest, and af-|biters, strikers, stall crowders, halter
ter seeing the mare go around the barniand bridle pullers of the most confirmed
with tin pails and chains fastened to herjtype and of mature ages. Each and
tail dangling about her heels and not of-jevery one of these thirteen horses were
fering to kick at all, I made up my mindjwell trained and testimonials of satisfac-
it was the first time I had ever seen ajtion given with the pay for training
horse properly educated not to kick.|without an exception, to my certain
The training was done in about thirty/knowledge. I believe his theory is the
minutes, without any whipping, throw-jsafest, most practical and humane way
ing or whirling. His lesson for thisjof training colts and horses known at the

alone is worth ten times the price of his/present time. Wn. A. Harris.
' book, R. Carer. Horse and colt trainer, Newark, N. Y.

Newark, N. Y.. Sept. 15, 1890. Newark, N. Y. Nov. 12, 1888.
_ Professor C. L. Edwards, Mr. C. L. Edwards halter broke two
Dear Sir:—The western mare youjcolts for me. :The ease and safety with
trained for me 1s driving well. I wasjwhich he done this was surprising. He
surprised to see you drive here, hitched|taught them both to lead well, and not
to light carriage, the same day she was|pull upon the halter, in about one
eaught out of the drove. hour. They have never offered to pull,
Respectfully yours, it being some six months since they were
D. L. CHAPMAN, trained, and they lead well at the same
Liveryman, Newark N. Y. |time. Mr. Edwards led them both up

—}) a flight of stairs. C.P.SovERHILLE.

Pautmyra, N. Y. Dee. 1, 1891.

Being the manager of Prof. C. L. Ed-| Prof. C. L. Edwards of Newark, N. Y.
wards trained horse. Bonner E. Bristol,jattended our fair with his two-year-old
for the season of 1891, I can testify thatitrick colt which accomplished forty won-
he received $150 cash for each engage-iderful tricks. among these being driven
ment when exhibited. His book on thejat a run without reins and controled at
education of the horse is A 1. will by the whip and word of mouth.—
F.W. Core. ‘Palmyra Courier.

152 EDWARDS’

; CuicaGco, March 7. 1877.
Haying examined the bridle bit pat-
ented by C. L. Edwards, and knowing
something of the anatomy of the horses
nead. I would certify that the superior
maxiliary nerve in the roof of thé horse’s
mouth, the main portion of which is lo-
cated in the center, but haviny branches
on either side equally sensative; and can
only be reached by a. ball-shaped center;
piece, as seen on his bit. For cotitrol by
rere upon this nerve and its branches,
his extension centet piece being adjust-
ably secured thereto, you can raise it for
horses having high concave mouths, and
lower it for those with less concavity, or
temove it entirely. The levers have a
perfect action upon the trifacial nerves,
bringing the pressure in a line actoss
them, not ina circle as a ring, to throw
the cheek against the molar teeth and
cut or irritate it on the insidé, but a
swivel or ring eyelet acts in unison with
the motion of the head; always lying
smooth against the horse’s face as you
can readily seé. I pronounce it with
pleasure ‘‘a first-class article.”
F. E. Dickey. V. S..,
Chieago, Ill.

Patmyra, N. Y. Dee. 13, 1891.

I have trained horses for the past fif-
teen years, am personally acquainted
with C: L. Edwards, have drove upon
the track several horses of his training,
and every One being fine reiners. Have
examined his book on the education and
management of horses and pronounce it

PRACTICAL SRNR)

Austiy, Texas, March 17, 1886.

This is to certify that I the undersign- —
ed know the horse called the Hanley
horse, know he ran away at the railroad —
crossing at Austin, know Mr: C. L. Ed=
wards, saw him drive this horse up to a

steaming engine which he had alway:

upon him and seémed to control him —
with ease, saw him drive him up to ah —
engine, place his head in the door. Thé-
engine wassmoking and letting Off steam —
at the top and bottom and the horse
standing in the steam. J. E. Kinney.

Parmyrd, N. Y.. Oct. 10; 1889.
Mr. C. L. Edwards. | aa
._ Dear Sir:—Having .examined your ~
“ Controling Snaffie or Adjustable Brid/é
Bit;” I take pleasuré in stating that the —
bit appears to me to be construeted on —
right principles. Your statement in re-—
gard to the nerves of the face and head ©
of the horse, and that your bit is so con-
structed as to gain control without irri-
tation, seems to me to be cortect. Be-_
lieving that, your invention will prove it-—
self a benefit to both the horsé and his
master,Iam _- Vety. truly yours. .
Oy Hecune L. Riées,

President Paimyra Horse Breeders’

Trotting Association.

Nawanes Ne Y. May 27,1888.
_ I placed in Mr. C. L. Edwards hands a

mare. She had refused to draw and ~
work t0 a plow. Mr.JEdwards did in my —

hy

without hesitation first class. Don’t failjpresence, after giving this mare two les-_

C. H. Avprics.
TRAINER OF
Alice B,, bay mare........ trial, 2:18
Anna M., roan mare,...... trial. 2:29
Chas. B. Wilks; bay stud, . trial. 2:301¢
Champion, chest. gelding, trial, 2:201¢
East Mont, b. gelding,....trial 2:24

Mancuester, N. Y., Oct. 16, 1887.

I have witnessed Mr. Edwards’ method
of training the colt, and heartily recom-
mend him as a first-class hand to educate
horses. Ciarkson ALDRICH.

Owner of Champion Morgan, trial 2:30,
we ght 1,250.

Marion, N. Y. Feb. 10. 1888.
We the undersigned would like to state
as a fact to the stock owners of this vi-
cinity, that Prof. C. L. Edwards of New-

to get a copy.

sons place her upon plow and wofk her
all right., She would also bolt in going
down hill and throw herself. Mr. E:
trained her to be a perfect reiner, and —
she has driven well ever since he return=
edhertome. ~ CuHas. T. ScHwARTz.

‘Prof. C. L. Edwards. owner, of the
famous trick horse, ‘‘Bonner E. Bris-
tol,” on exhibition here; is one of thé
great attractions of the exposition. Mr. —
‘Edwards’ skill as a trainer was never
more successfully shown than in the eX
hibition of hishorse here. It is certainly
a marvel. ;

HogneELusvitLe Trisune, Aug. 28, oh. 5

Sr. Exmo, Trxas, July 21, 1885.

While Mr. C. L. Edwards lived at St:

/Elmo, I employed him to train one —

ark, N. Y. is second to no one in educat-horse for me. ‘This horse was very hard ©
ing horses. His method guaranteescom-to handle, Mr. Edwaids thoroughly

success irrespective of age or disposition.
To be informed of his method of centrol

‘trained him to work and drive. I saw
him handle him, saw him use the for-

is well worth $20 to any farmer. Jamesward motion ofthe line, slating the bit

Odell, C. O. Skinner, J. J. Odell, R. B.
Skinner.

as it were against the horses mouth.
{ F. B. Mixxer.

!
been desperately afraid of. At the time eine
Mr. Edwards drove him he had his bit Bet

Ae
pS ae

v5
!

a:

At Head with Bridle........ Sia she alate ane 22
Afraid of Umbrellas......... Bicieia.e erste era
Afraid of Top Carriage....... lole/ehaisVelts +. 47
TAVITA OTM ATS a eicimiplclvlcloe niatate ates Lalefe legate eta OE
ATG O OU ELOTSG (ois )eic kiniels oe ieee ee miciaials Oni ita
USB ELOUBG 2), ore nteln lola, «1 c)+|4ale wieis'el cial ‘sialelviete -. 14
Bitting or Check Reining............. oles LO
Balky BROT syste oath shoals ok Pesca etaleite wetsvale hoop,
TEXCUTI(Ss Gee RGA IG a Lh I BRR ED Ae mee)
Bad to Back Pied ieiveie abeicintalearclalavele bites am tsintelwtate 45
Bad to Shoe in Front...... Sone ta)
Bad to Shoe Behind..... Brera sol
SAGO MPATIVOS Ab eiel victe vist invelecioleisisieievele ABER TTS
SATE OUD WEL aie ateielelere © oa steele eter eiatate\aieivl= 55
PAG LOMADTUCULE RG ale icrerele eiete aut ciee teeta ete nie asta 59
Break Up Habit of Whinnering.......... 78
Bits, the Use Of............ Maye tare siateiolat «- 83
Bad to Catch..... srpfereiel sia talalatevanreratet siete sine 84
Breeding... elstetatnctercieter val wetanaineet hanes 113
Breaking the Heiter binibtsl elo raterateeetstare isa iaya beers 5
Bloated Cow. s0s:s0\ecesececen Wieistsiasie ins eteie 126
Bird Dog or Pointer praeiale' blake eee Ba TiN. iale ets
BOUMET. sels velbanels settee elie colette
Bonner Sitting Down...
Crowding in Stall......... x
Check Fighter........ Rae gel rye NCI IAS 39
MOT ANU) ELOUBD a's sin'n sissies wiataiataataitiolayicferetaie 41
Changing Way of Reine Molatalate eietelateral' =! ajetele 74
MLO SE DOO T ah le Mow ate moitpe ctalelele eerste niae aides -103
MGM LU Ctios ss dusleieiielttels meee Dieta late eieseratele winietets 103
Come Under Y SNE ie Te Ta 120
Cow That Sucks Herself...... alate etstisiae, tists
Choked Cow..... yer sirgsacatate esi sabe Piforejasnile oat 124
ONACK OT MCAUBS ie letemiers sinieve siele's eho AUB a8 1
Drive Without Reins................. ar
Drive by the Snap of Finger.......
Drive by Motion of Hand................
Device for Handling Bulls............-.- 123
Edueate Horse to Run Loose..... ioe 93
Bdncate. to Waltziccccs cee otis pitaiee’s -- 95
MCUCATE CO! Gallop cece bicjeemisicielsiaie «/eielels 99
HMGUCATE CO WEAUE DE ycc\00 5 icc nese lsiejein seiee's 99
Educate to Yes anid Nig ei dae ye iciaterete 100
METTOTs sinctteste Ce ein aise eeiiiels a byale ies LfareraealelalateleiaveG 133
THIELE Hale. a ania otbaleteiclbiniels: disieie timate me aisles evel pe
Fence Jumper.......... Ne
Fence Breaker................
Get a Horse Up...... aise
reper (CREB SBE Seas . tole
OMAN EES Be Ua eihatecatebainarotataicre mintiele coals esarter
CAVE OUME DINE Be oleinjeteteinie'arieinis eile alnelereta nie
Gentleman: Rules,...........5,06 BENE Ae 108
Garget, Caked Udder............... sinlelelaell ir
FIOLSEMANSHIP ooo) ccciiciais cielsioetieisnie's «'s sieisiete ha
PV ACE TS CDE GAGs lajercte sicinte mints ciel si selsefelminte state aie 15
Hard Puller..... mspalanatatals a aol Aislaisfalalete-cieteie 39
Horse That Will Not Stand........ Satetels 46
Halter and Bridle Puller.... 48
Horse that Hugs Line............+-.000% ,
Horse Tearing Blanket..
Horse Drive Horse......
HELO; TO OPEN OK.i/c)2e 16 Lreiele nin lcelsjmslaieieleiie
VEREOUGAL Vicor pieletisle secalantsnicdei/asisie thats Ae
Handling Steers’ Feet... ...... hatelarat siete vis 122
PINGS CO WAIT VME so) «ic cesar vie'= eis elsluelniele © 125
HAINES FOAM rainerducsec sccm scimeree cians Poe 134
PNA Ame ds WAST) 2). wi csctelnis dec\stastee teite esyetnle 126
UOCKEY: OY wise cise e'ein slayer ole eile Pielaelotesiataiet sie 136
Kicking Horse ess tet ee a Gren eeeeiete 32
PACKING OUD saint ele ates siatels aia Mauieiete Be stauttesen

EDWARDS’ PRACTICAL

Index.

Kicking and Pawing.............
Kick With One or Both Feet.

Kick to Circus Canty cic ecna
IRTSSV YOU | ciel simse Aulamtaletete re leletats laiate
RaCKIng COW den ele cieeislevelalaieiiels

Topple Out the Tongue..
Ladies on Horseback. Basti

Marks of a Good Cow........
Make Team Pull Even....... a
Not Stand while Being Milke
Open a Door..... ea serinrettee ag
Ox Would Say... 050. .00. cece
Ox, Balky. ele a{sin Sin Stal oleleralatshaletate Se
Off Steer Gee, Near One Haw ‘
Plunger to Train...... oje\viatae spies
Pleasure Driving...... Seabic vtic
Pleasure Horse..... Shossoses
Paw Or. Count ssw adee ee dae
Points About Horses..

Reining to Drive......5 0.05...
Running Back.......... elas
Rearing Horse..... seveie

Runaway Steersiees oi veceweis 5
Recipes to Cure Sickness bf sease..
Rules for Making Money With T oti
Shying ...............00 ts olgfelal atelier
Switcher iiata sia dtauetatirersdsis sholeetevalstvatan
Stallion Bad to Manage.......... velatia
Sucking the Tongue......... ..
Speeding Young Colts............ #
Stand Without Being Tied.........
Shetland Ponies...... sain teeters
PS te Mn etal es tesere ys hretete ohelel et epaiet nes

Teaching to Back......... BA
The Runaway.....-cc.re. felt ote
Teach Colt or Mustang to/ Ride
Train Horse that Leans on Ronee :
Tossing Headies .)s lee. 5 amici els eieeenaale
T6 Make a Colt Follow....... ai

To Lie Down..... mi areheoterete sletptakela A,

MPO nIGNe Ly cis tens cictereie)stein/oy nielaeteretate
To Sit Upe rane siiuineiets nis efote ie
To Roll Oves...... Siatalale atdnatreetnte

TPH KOW: REG OT eis rei staleteiaraloinaatetatel

Take Off Your Cap

Teaching Tricks..... y

To; Dell Age. av aes scmelelceisiarie eters wa\alsia
Teeth, Three and Four he ie Old.....
The Mule....... ajetets cialol Saale) 6iaiesa alsin
The Race Horse.... 0.0.25. ckretaee eiated
The Miuastanp..’-\.'s'ce [cise . «ieee ajalnsloanteletels
Training Steers........... ao sla etuerd
urning Yokes)... see ate

y .
The Teeth of Cattle........
Training sinaitiaecs ta tes
The Shepherd Dog...........
Teach « Dog to Watch .
Teach a Dog to Jump Throw g
Teach a Dog to Sit Down..
Teach a Dog to Sit Up........
Teach a Dog to Catch Food....
Teach a Dog to Bing Thinges Ad
Testimonials...............
Whirling Around....... hs sively
Walk Up and Down Stairs...
Word With Trainers.......
Wild Steer With Gentle One...

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