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CoMMERCIAL TREES
“REAL TREES
THE PRUNING BOOK
An illustrated statement of tested methods
of pruning and a warning against the
mistakes so commonly made.
Prepared for
HENRY DISSTON & SONS, Inc.
By ROLAND B. GILMAN
\|
Published and Copyrighted by
HENRY DISSTON & SONS, INC.
PHILADELPHIA, UL SoA.
1921
In Appreciation +“~
The need for a book that would tell the story of pruning in
the most universal of all languages, that of pictures, prompted
the development of that plan in the following pages. With this
end in view, the writer has endeavored to secure the best photo-
graphs showing the representative good and bad pruning from
various sections of the United States. When these were secured,
the text was built around them.
No attempt has been made to discuss relative merits of the
various systems of pruning used in commercial orchards and
vineyards, the aim being to illustrate those methods found to
be generally adapted to the variety and section under discus-
sion, and call attention to and warn against mistakes so com-
monly made in this line of work.
“The Pruning Book”’ is not intended as a complete work on
pruning.
The writer wishes to express the thanks and appreciation of
both the Company and himself to those who so generously
ioe by furnishing the prints and cuts so necessary to success,
as follows:
The United States Department of Agriculture, Figs. 3 to 12, 26 to 29,
31-B, 32, 37 to 42, 48-A, 44 to 47, 50, 58-A and B, 60, 61-C, 62 and 78-A.
Bureau of Plant Industry, United States Department of Agriculture.
Figs. 65, 66, 67-B and C, 69, 72, 73, 76, 83 and 84.
The Forest Service, United States Department of Agriculture, Figs. 1,
13 to 24, 61-A and B and 64-A.
The Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station, Figs. 36 and 43-B and C.
The Nebraska Agricultural Experiment Station, Figs. 51, 68, 74 and 75.
The North Carolina Agricultural Experiment Station, Figs. 52, 55 and 57.
BAe West Virginia Agricultural Experiment Station, Figs. 53, 54, 58-C
an ;
The Iowa Agricultural Experiment Station, Figs. 48 and 49.
The Idaho Agricultural Experiment Station, Figs. 30, 34 and 35.
The Country Gentleman, Figs. 70, 71, 77, 78-B, 79, 80, 82-B and 85.
Mr. Harvey W. Porch, Figs. 56, 68, 67-A, 81 and 82-A.
Mr. John T. Roberts, Figs. 2 and 86-C.
Mr. L. Willard Minch, Fig. 64-B.
A large portion of thanks is also expressed for the assistance
given through information and suggestions by the various
State Agricultural Experiment Stations, and for the suggestions
of Mr. Frank K. Phillips.
APR 26 192|
Otl.A614209
CONTENTS
ERTS OEY © Bee su WINGIUN Garsictrce sacl aioe s.crrid acid cad tiklee le Sig steuse so eae 5
GENERAL PRINCIPEBS. OF PRUNINGE, 2. f..200<..c cus cues wees 9
Tee SULUCLULGR ears Tare eee Lehi oe ier retorts a alas bic.ss e aereine 9
Merayw: Gauseande treaument >... f. kk ce oaae ca one Fs venee ee 9-11
Cavities: sows Lolpixcavace ange billows: |e a cecte oeee nee re 11-13
Removalko team Dsi.qerreee eee MwA tas os ayo cresvarus canes ores iil
Protection of Wounds to Prevent Decay...-......5.....--.-«.-.-- 21
PORES TT AND SHADE TREESE RUNING oy 25 0 holed oe onde dias 23-27
CADALP AER E Babe RUNING Pome soso fe tesco cles orcs a. cae ae 26 and 91
IN (UE ENE sR OININI Geers sie ep ee cre eee nde ela key bat chcmisetead ov 31
PAIN EEN G2 ORM BIE Saas cace byte iets abe tod Sauls Nemes Beda Sense 32
TRIBUS MIRA DL DISS cae ods Rage St nies eteeym elise cA SEG) Saeed ae ene poe eer ey! 34
Ap plewirees erunin Oe saa ater. itn bate te rot oa oats sce = oreo ... 04-58
SUMMeny ELUM cole APPLES aeeseics s: rivoniatisesiatacn ay entrar site 43
eNO VLimesCUG OTCMATOS ty. 6 952s ahs sk cs ape gas «hie Sle pd Aone were 48
GUarastothlneesn.. cutee seat pice cA ata tie ce mire sae eral chen Sante ee 52
TD ISCASE Rete rt ee ene RE orc eer tty ae i EN en oe, 54
Gratbin ere ys se ae A ha Mee Ae Mens 55
OD = WORKIN Caress otc. cea A Re Ont iNe a eeu eu Nok Shae bene Lope 2 58
Red ene ree ee Runt Gap pe iter Poke eucee eis Oi ed OP pst ose oR 59-69
RUG ESS Mery ds here Crue PU Wc ita Pca hauler mara ka Beans chee 59
ea din gw ReAChMLRCes ceuet cet kc ies teense Lae 5 sropthirbinrensiclace Mateus eee 66
Ua Come rlIM IN Ay eee tee cn he ee ae cde: se a rot Ne eee ees -. 70
PNOMOGE IUHS EEO ee ee Oe es ee ao i, eee eae ees ee eee 71
Cherryaltreev runing ft onter teen eee cae ea ater e x wares fil
Rearaireesentnin geen eis sect etc oe oe PGE Bites ds Ns is ea fs a fl
VEE ANT eg Mth ER BN a Dee RUDI NUSUIN Ghd steer cdots araxcs cushabaecxcnaye ehcrcobs lores auntie Suck sneleed 73
HVASD DCREY Ape eae Pee iy. re re te ae ERA A ERE « BE aan 73
CW Chie ety NE RN ect ad ee iy ARTS Or eer ae 717
1B EERE oY 9 lea ecy tis re PE rcpt ETTORE TRS eh 8 SE OR Oi aE ee Aa 80
CUPRA Reet ona ieee ATR Ne tee Si eT ne are as eee 80
COOSCD CTI ere Ra Ee ey ie er nh sos eisaat tate 81
CCEA FEE MUN Cre crtn cao tea See OE neni sas Goes septate Tee & 81
AV ADING Habe EP EOENILIN| Gigs rete ces heater rie Moe sts. c te, okie ache omare ane ats 86
Wisteria bruned for Py lOOMING...3 5.80) 565 wt. citi de edhehce S peteowees ode 86
SEER UES Sree ee oy ee ea sees See PS a ie ieee Be at 87
DRAUSS ALD AD 18 WDC OPS es Sah ae a cae salt one ag i ON <a oRaR B nee E 91
AERO ce tienee Pe Ol nD ust 6 he en es Syiaeee ae 5, Shere Si aveiais oc do mcocys we suciae 92
MOTO SSUES OA DO Ost fa 21-4 Cte El 1 ga 97
INVITE SEME, cae piu& sete og ae ele CSE Eee RES ame erie ea 98-99
LEE TNE 51572) 7 li is a6, UDR, AG ped tn i ee 98-99
Pruning Shears....,. Ieee Sate a ors Saale Sine ghee FARA ERE A ae.
Foreword
This ‘Pruning Book” answers most of the everyday
questions regarding pruning and was planned to cover as
broad a field as possible in a book of its size. It is hoped
that the reader will be so interested in the proper care of
his trees and shrubs that additional information will be
desired. A vast quantity of such information is avail-
able, much of which is contained in the free publications
of the United States Department of Agriculture and of
the various State Agricultural Experiment Stations.
Those desiring information on pruning should address
' the United States Department of Agriculture, Bureau
of Publications, Washington, D. C., asking for available
information on the subject in question.
At times, detailed information regarding peculiar local
conditions is best obtained from the Agricultural Experi-
ment Station of the State in which such conditions exist.
The State Experiment Stations are generally in a
position to give advice as to market requirements, proper
spraying, cultivation, and other local factors which
affect the pruning work.
Many books have been published on the subject.
The best known are possibly ‘‘Bailey’s Pruning Book,”’
by Prof. L. H. Bailey, Macmillan Co., New York City;
“Principles and Practice of Pruning,” by M. G. Kains,
Orange Judd, New York City, and ‘Citrus Fruits,” by
J. E. Coit, Macmillan Co.
History and Development
of Pruning
HE ‘Modern Horticulturists’” are apt to look upon our
knowledge of the principles of pruning as being part of
a very modern system of fruit growing. The surprising
fact is that vineyards were spoken of in Bible writings about
2300 B. C., ““Noah began to be a husbandman and planted a
vineyard.’”’ Gen. 9:20. Mention is also made of the dressing
of vines and trees by Varro, who wrote a book on agriculture
about the year 600 of the Roman Era. He quotes more ancient
writers, criticising some for not advocating the regular pruning
of the olive tree. He also testifies against that ancient Kastern
proverb: “Two things improve with beating—women and olive
trees.”” He says that the custom of beating olive trees to remove
experience of 48, yeeres labour, and now the fecond time correéted and
much enlarged, by Wiliam Law/or,
Whereunto isnewly added the Art of propagating Plants, with thetrue ordering
of all manner of Fruits in their gathering, carrying home, and prefcruation.
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Skill and paines bring fruicfull gaines,
Printed at London by IH. for Rocer Tacxson, and arc to be foldat].is
fhop neere Flect-firect Conduit, 36 23.
FIGURE 3
i)
THE PRUNING BODO
the fruit destroyed many of the young shoots and fruit buds,
reducing the next crop.
The writers of the seventeenth century quoted the Bible,
Ovid, Virgil, and other ancient authors profusely. These men
thought things through and arrived at conclusions surprisingly
like those we hold to be true today. Their knowledge of plant
disease and insects was not great, owing to the lack of proper
scientific instruments needed in their study.
William Lawson, an English gardener, wrote a book on the
“Ordering of all manner of fruits.” (Fig. 8.) The following
extract gives his idea of how a standard fruit tree should be
pruned, and why:
“A fruit tree so standing, that there need none other end of dressing
but fruit (not ornaments for walks, nor delight to such as would please their
eye only, and yet the best form cannot but both adorn and delight), must
be parted from within two foot (or there abouts) of the earth, so high to
give liberty to dresse his root and no higher, for drinking up the sap that
should feed his fruit, for the boale will be first, and best served and fed,
because he is next the root, and of greatest waxe and substance, and that
makes him longest of life, unto two, three, or foure armes, as your stocke
or graffes yeeld twigs, and every arme into two or more branches, and every
branch into his severall cyons. Still spreading by equal degrees, so that his
lowest spray be hardly without the reach of a mans hand and his highest
be not 2 yards higher, rarely (especially in the middest) that no one twig
touch his fellow. Let him spread as far as he list without any master-
bough, or top equally. And when any bough doth grow sadder and fall
lower, than his fellows (as they will with weight of fruit) ease him the next
spring of his superfluous twigs, and he will rise: when any bough or spray
shall amount above the rest, either snub his top with a nip betwixt your
finger and your thumb, or with a sharp knife, and take him clean away,
and so you may use any cyon you would reform, and as your tree shall
grow in stature and strength, so let him rise with his tops, but equally, and
in bredth also, and follow him upward with lopping his under growth and
water-boughs, keeping the same distance of two yards but not above three
in any wise, betwixt the lowest and highest twigs.
“1. Thus shall you have well liking, cleane skinde, beautifull, great and
long-lasting trees.
“2. Thus shall your tree grow low, and safe from winds, for his top will
be great, broad and weighty.
“3. Thus growing broad, shall your trees beare much fruit (I dare say)
one as much as sixe of your common trees, and good without shadowing,
drooping and fretting: for his boughs, branches and twigs shall be many,
and those are they (not the boale) which beare the fruit.
“4. Thus shall your boale being little (not small but low) by reason of his
shortness take little, and yield much sap to the fruit.
“5. Thus your trees by reason of strength in time of setting shall put
forth more blossoms, and more fruit, being free from taints, for strength is a
great help to bring forth much and safely, whereas weakness fails in setting
tho the season be calme.”’
THR PRUNING BOOK 7
Chap. 11. An Orchard. Drefing. 37
The perfe& forme of a Fruit tree.
Ufany thinke a tree cannot wellbe bought to this forme:
Expertocrede Roberto. Jcan thew divers of them bnder tioenty
peares of age. Pies
Whe fittetk time of the Woovie fo2 propring is as of grafting, Time
tolen the fap is readp to ftirre (not proudly fircing )andfots beft for
coucr the wound, and of the pore, a month before ( 03 at lea proi-
{oben ) pougraffe. Drelle Peares, Apricoks, Peaches, Cher ning.
ries, and Wuilps fooner. And old tres before poung plants,
pou map d2efieat any time betwwirt Leafe and Leafe. And
note, that tebere you fake any thing atvay, the fap the nert funv
mer will be putting : be fure thercforc when he puts a bud in
any place there you would not bane hint, rub it of With pour
finger.
ae beere pou mult remember the common bomelp 320° Dretfe
nerbe: Soone.crookes the tee that good Camrell mutt bee. betime,
Beainne betime with tras, anv’ doc what pou lift : but tf ‘
voulet them grow great and fubboone, pou mull dee as the
trees lift, hep will not bend but breake, noz be Wound twith-
nut banger. a (mall bganch will become a bough, anda bough
anarme in bignede.. Shen if pou cut him, bis toound twill fe
fter, andhardly, without gad skul, teconer therefoge, obfta :
FiGuRE 4
William Lawson says: ‘‘Imagine that the paper makes but
one side of the tree to appeare, the whole round compasse will
give leave for many more armes, boughs, branches and cyons.”
8 TE oP RU NODN G * Beyer
Lawson had the same idea with regard to the shape and
general structure of the tree that is held by many present-day
orchardists.
He makes a mistake when he says that “‘the boale will be
first and best served and fed because he is next the root.”
Modern research has shown us that the sap as it comes from
the roots is in a crude form and must pass through the sap
wood of the trunk and branches to the leaves where it is digested,
after which it is carried through the inner bark to the growing
twigs, fruit, branches or roots as needed. (See Fig. 5-A,
page 10.) Modern practice seems to disagree with his advice
to remove the lower limbs. Compare Fig. 42-A, page 52, where
this has been done, with Fig. 32-B, page 41, and you can readily
see the value of the lower limbs, provided they get air and light.
Samuel Hartlib, in 1653 A. D., wrote: “‘A designe for plentie
by a universal planting of fruit trees.’”” He suggests legislation
intended to compel land owners and overseers to plant and care
for fruit trees. —
R. A. Austin in the same year gives us “Arguments of the
dignity of fruit trees and the art of planting.”’ This book is
largely quotations from ancient writers, and gives long lists of
kings and great men who were interested in fruit culture. Some
of these lived in ancient Babylon and China.
The knowledge of these old-time writers does not seem to
have been made use of by the larger part of the farmers and
fruit growers.
The writers many times give the general lack of knowledge
and good practice as their reason for writing the book. These
efforts of the early authors were largely annulled by the lack of
general education of the public and the relatively high cost of
the printed book.
The development of transportation and markets during the
last half century has resulted in a vast amount of research and
experimenting in connection with fruit growing. In spite of
this, very little has been added to our knowledge of the prin-
ciples of pruning. The details of practice have been varied to
suit the peculiar demands of climate, soil, and variety of fruit,
and the mystery which surrounded plant growth and diseases
has been somewhat clarified.
THES@SPRUNING BOOK 9
General Principles
The work of tree pruning may be divided into two general
classes: that of training and that of repair or tree surgery.
In all of this work a few fundamental principles must be
observed if good results are to be realized. There are many
persons who feel that great mystery surrounds the work of the
“‘tree doctor” or specialist in this work. There are some few
unprincipled men who encourage this idea. The truth is that
any person may undertake this work who has a general knowl-
edge of the tree’s structure and growth, of how insects and dis-
ease affect the tree; and who can use the shears, saw, mallet,
gouge, and brush with patience and care.
A cross section of a tree trunk is shown in Fig. 5-A, page 10.
The dark portion (a) is the heart wood, and is practically dead tis-
sue. Its chief value to the tree is to give rigidity to the trunk and
branches. The lighter section (b) next to the bark is the sap
wood. Through the minute sap tubes of this portion of the tree
the crude sap passes from the fine feeding roots to the leaves
and twigs. There the tree uses it to manufacture food. The
action of sunlight is necessary to this digestive process and
explains why trees strive to reach the sunlight when shaded,
and dwindle and die when they fail. When thus digested, the
food is carried from the leaves in solution through tubes in the
inner bark (d) to those parts of the tree where it is needed for
growth, or to be stored for future use. The food is transformed
in the cambium (c) to wood or bark tissue. No growth takes
place in the tree except in the cambium, the inner bark, the
tips of the twigs and roots, and the leaves. The oldest bark is
on the surface of the trunk and limbs, and usually consists of
dead corky tissues (e).
Plant diseases and organisms which cause decay seldom gain
entrance to the wood tissues if the bark and cambium remain
uninjured. Where such injury takes place some substitute
should be provided, such as lead paint, tar, or asphalt. Where
the bark becomes broken, or a limb is removed, exposing the
heart, or the sap wood, there is an opportunity for disease and
decay to gain a foothold.
Fig. 5-B, page 10, shows a scar left by the removal of a
large limb. Notice that the sear is healing more rapidly at the
sides than at the top or bottom. No provision has been made
in this case for the protection of the heart and sap wood against
decay. The lack of protection has also permitted the heart
wood to become dry and to crack, or check.
SSS
10 BHE | PRUNIN G (BO
Figure 5
Fig. 5-C is a scar about three-fourths healed over.
Fig. 5-D shows decay resulting from an axe cut or blaze.
The heart is nearly all destroyed, though the wound is almost
healed over.
THE*®PRUNING BOOK 11
The line indicates the proper shape of the cavity if this had
been excavated.
The scar in Fig. 5-E is entirely healed over. If decay has
commenced, it will continue, even though the wound is healed.
Fig. 5-F shows a very small opening into a large area of decay;
only a thin shell of sound wood remains. Many times, there
are very large cavities that escape detection until a storm
breaks a limb, or blows the tree down, exposing the decay.
The treating of such cavities is seldom practical, except where
expense is not a factor. The decay shown in Fig. 5-D and 5-F
could have been prevented if the injuries had received proper
treatment in the first place. The old adage: an ounce of pre-
vention is worth a pound of cure, is doubly true in the case of
pruning and tree surgery. Careful work is always well repaid
in the results obtained. The use of poor or dull tools will
greatly handicap the workman, not only delaying the work,
but causing very poor results.
Climbing spurs and double-edged saws should never be
used, since they cause a great amount of unnecessary damage.
When it is necessary to remove a limb of any kind, the
workman should never hesitate to do all the work needed to
make a complete job. Neglect of any kind will exact full toll,
both in trouble and expense, in the future. The fact must
never be lost sight of that the removal of a limb of any size
exposes the wood tissue to infection until the wound is covered
again by paint or new growth. Should a limb be permitted to
split, as shown in Fig. 6-A, page 12, the resulting crack will
.afford an excellent breeding place for rot-producing fungi, and,
even though protected by paint, the wound will be much longer
rt healing than would be the case were the work properly
one.
The proper method of removing large limbs is one item that
should be thoroughly understood before much pruning work is
undertaken.
One should go very slowly in making the decision to cut
large limbs, since replacement is usually impossible, even after
many years. Also, the large wound resulting will require a long
time to heal. The workman must realize that the cut surface
must be protected against decay for a long period where the
wound is large. One method of protecting a large cut would be
to cover it with tin to within one-half inch of the edge of the
cut surface. The tin must be in one piece, or if more than one
piece is required, the joint should be soldered. After smoothing
the cut surface and giving the usual treatment of disinfectant,
4
12 THE SPRUNING “DQGee
FIGure 6
shellac, and tar or paint, the tin should be tacked on so that the
edges are tight against the surface. The tin should be tarred
or painted on both sides.
THESE UN LT N.G-) BOOK 13
Fig.6-A, page 12, is a heavy limb improperly cut, allowing it to
strip as it falls. The saw-cut in the under side of the limb, shown
in Fig. 6-B, is the first step in the proper removal of a large limb.
This is to prevent stripping when the limb falls. The second
cut is made just beyond the first and from the top, as in Fig. 6-C.
The third cut is shown in Fig. 6-D, and should always be made
close to and parallel with the trunk or main limb. This will
leave an oval scar, as shown in Fig. 6-E, which also shows how
the sear is dressed smooth with a gouge or chisel.
Fig. 6-F shows the reason why stubs should not be left.
The bark of these stubs died, mainly as a result of removing
all the food-producing organs above. Decay has entered the
trunk from these stubs. :
Fig. 7-A, page 14, shows cavities in two trees excavated
through several openings. The scars would heal better if the
openings were oval and pointed at top and bottom.
A bad ease of neglected horse bite is shown in Fig. 7-B.
Another view is given in Fig. 7-C. Note how the decay has
affected the roots. It is possible, though hardly practicable,
owing to the great expense, to try to save a tree in this condition.
The treatment of cavities can be regarded as comprising
three essential operations: (a) removing all diseased and de-
cayed matter, (b) sterilizing and waterproofing all cut surfaces,
and (c) filling the cavity in a manner that will favor rapid heal-
ing and exclude all rot-producing organisms.
Fig. 8-A, page 15, is a cross section of a young tree trunk,
showing how the new wood and bark grow into an unfilled cavity
from the margin. If the original injury had been given proper
treatment the trunk would now be sound and the scar entirely
healed over. The line indicates the amount of excavating
needed before filling the cavity.
Fig. 8-B shows the cross section of a cavity braced with a bolt
and with nails placed to hold cement filling. The cross section
in Fig. 8-C shows the manner of using two bolts in a long, deep
cavity. Fig. 8-D gives the proper method of countersinking
the oval washer on the bolt. If round washers are used, the
countersunk area should be pointed at the top and bottom to
facilitate healing. Fig. 8-E shows a cross section of the tree
shown in Fig. 8-B after filling with cement. The surface of the.
cement conforms with the general shape of the woody portion
of the trunk and does not extend beyond the cambium.
Cavities less than two feet long do not ordinarily need bolt-
ing. If the cavity is very long, the bolts should be placed
14 THE PRUNING BOGOR
So,
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os
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FIGuRE 7
about every two feet. All split cavities and crotches must be
securely bolted and protected after all diseased wood is re-
moved.
The best material to use on the edges of the sap wood and
bark is shellac. Creosote appears to be one of the best materials
to use as a sterilizer on all cut surfaces, except the cambium and
bark. This should be followed with asphalt or tar. The treat-
ment of all cut surfaces to prevent decay is one of the most
important steps in the filling of a cavity. If this is neglected,
the filling of the cavity will not prevent further decay, and all
the work will be worse than lost, since the cement filling will
hide any further decay and prevent treatment.
nese
1 HE ew NENG) BiO-O°K 15
-—— esnsnnnessersees
Figure 8
16 THE PRUNING + 3B OGse
Figure 9
Fig. 9-A, above, shows a cavity in a large elm filled with
cement with strips of tar felt between the layers. This felt allows
the cement to expand or contract, or the tree to sway without
TH Back oNeLN GG) B-O-O'K 17
Figure 10
cracking the cement. The details of another method of filling
are shown in Fig. 9-B-C-D-E. The rods are used to reinforce
the filling, while the wire screen is only used as a dam to hold
the wet cement in place until it has set. The wire netting is
then removed and the cement smoothed with a trowel. Care
should be taken that the surface of the filling does not extend
beyond the cambium. If the bark or cambium is covered with
the cement, growth is apt to continue under the filling. This
will force the filling out or crack it.
Good cement and clean sand should be used in the propor-
tion of one part cement to two and one-half parts sand. For
very large cavities a mixture of one part cement, two parts
sand, and three parts clean gravel or broken stone can be used.
A wet mixture will make a better filling than a dryer one, but
requires a better means of holding it in place. Strips of burlap
wrapped around the tree across the cavity make a very efficient
dam. This should not be removed until the cement is thor-
oughly set. The cement should be kept moist for a few days
to prevent too rapid drying out, which is apt to result in the
forming of fine cracks. ‘
The cement filling is not waterproof, so a coating of asphalt
or tar should be applied as soon as it is dry.
Fig. 10-A illustrates an open, shallow cavity ready for creo-
sote and tar. Shallow cavities of this type are seldom filled.
18 THE PRUNING BOOK
Figure 11
Fig. 10-B, page 17, shows the method of covering cavities
with sheet metal. Excavate and treat as if for cement, except
that bark and cambium should be cut back about one-half inch
from the edge of the opening to permit nailing of the sheet
metal, which should be painted on both sides. Be sure that
Ficure 12
THEBPRUNENG BOOK 19
Figure 13
the cavity is sterilized and waterproofed before covering. Nail
the cover tightly and cover with a coat of tar or asphalt.
Fig. 11-A, page 18, shows a method of attaching a guy chain
by means of a hook bolt. The tupelo tree in Fig. 11-B is nearly
strangled by the wires wrapped around the trunk. Wire or rope
should never be attached to a tree in this way.
The split crotch in Fig. 11-C has been guyed by means of a
long bolt about eighteen inches above the crotch. The limbs
should receive additional support, as shown in Fig. 12, page 18.
The limbs of this elm have been guyed by several independent
chains, about fifteen feet above the crotches. This is the best
method of preventing split crotches.
In Fig. 13-A the cavity has been excavated and the opening
is closed tightly with tar paper ready for the charge of carbon
disulphide that is being injected. The fumes of this liquid will
penetrate the insect tunnels and destroy the insects. The cover-_.
ing should not be removed for several hours, or the fumes may
not reach every insect. Fig. 13-B is the same cavity after filling
with cement and coating with tar. The tar prevents the cement
from absorbing moisture and forming fine surface cracks,
which in time will spread, destroying the filling.
20 TBE PRU NG. yy B Oaks
Figure 14
Fig. 14-A shows the result of poor work. The cement was
put on over the edge of the growing bark. Growth under the
cement has cracked it and forced it off. The cavity was not
Tt Hse aki UnNeIoNiG = B Oro 1K 21
Figure 15
properly treated and is badly decayed. Another poor job is
shown in Fig. 14-B. The cement covers the bark at the sides
and in time will be broken away by the growth of the cambium
beneath. The cement shows many fine cracks, which will
spread, admitting moisture and disease to the heart of the tree.
The applying of tar or lead paint to wounds as shown in
Fig. 14-C-D, would eliminate most of the cavity filling in the
future. Care should be exercised to prevent the tar or paint
from covering the edge of the bark, as it is apt to retard the
healing process. The edge of the bark, as well as the cambium
and sap wood, should be protected with a coat of shellac. If this
protection is not given, the bark will dry out and shrink away
from the edge, leaving a much larger area to be healed over.
The paint or tar may cover the whole wound if a previous coat of
shellac has been applied to the sap wood and edge of the bark.
The linden in Fig. 15-A has had a large number of limbs
removed, so as to open up the view. A black paint has been
used on the cuts. The same tree is shown in Fig. 15-B which
shows how the scar is covered from the sides by the tree’s
efforts to form more direct sap passages across the scar.
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Figure 17
Forest and Shade Trees
One of our greatest natural assets is our timber land. Its
care and utilization have received a vast amount of study in the
United States during the past few years.
The pruning needed in forest work consists for the most
part in removing dead branches and a careful thinning of the
stand oftrees. Any tree that is declining in vigor through crowd-
ing or from insects and disease should be removed. The removal
of undesirable trees would permit the better development of the.
more valuable trees.
Fig. 17 shows the result of such a thinning and pruning.
The brush should always be piled and carefully burned. This
will destroy many insects and greatly lessen the fire risk.
Insects and diseases are more apt to attack weak and dying
24 TEES Po RENIN .G 9 BOK
Figure 18
trees; if such are removed, the trees remaining will be better
able to resist these attacks and make a better growth.
The stubs shown in Fig. 18-A were left to prevent bleeding
where live limbs were removed from the pines. These stubs
will be cut close two or three years later. This method also
prevents cracked and loose knots in conifers.
Fig. 18-B shows a white pine and Scotch pine plantation
properly pruned. Only dead limbs were removed. Note the
straight trunks of the white pine.
Many mixed stands of hardwoods will be found to contain
tT Hohe PRN NG) BO OK
SS)
or
Ficure 19
good stands of softwoods. Careful harvesting of the hardwoods
will result in the harvesting of a second growth of timber at a
much earlier date than would be the case otherwise. Fig. 19-A
and B shows a stand of this type and the result of a careful har-
vesting of the hardwoods. The pines are about eight feet tall
and will now make rapid growth.
FiGurE 20
The stand of young pines in Fig. 20-A have been pruned too
young, as they should be permitted to form as dense a canopy
as possible. The white pines in Fig. 20-B have been slightly
pruned to produce clean trunks and give air drainage to thecrops.
Where live wood must be removed, as in this case, the work
should be done as shown in Fig. 18-A, page 24.
26 THE PERUNIN G °° BOO
Ficure 21
The catalpa plantation shown in Fig. 21 has been pruned to
form clean, straight trunks for posts and poles. Care should
be used to leave enough limbs to produce abundant leaf surface
for maximum growth.
The practice of cutting the tops off at the ground after each
year’s growth for the first two or three years is often resorted
to in order to obtain straight trunks.
1H ES PRU Nel NG | B:O' OK Q7
FIGURE 22
When it is necessary to remove large limbs, the wounds
must be sterilized and painted, as the catalpa is subject to at-
tacks of a fungus that causes decay in the heartwood of the
live trees,
28 THE oP RUN-IN. G (BOO
Figure 23
Fig. 22-A and B, page 27, shows the effect of continued annual
heading back of poplars. (A) After heading back in the spring. (B)
Similar trees after a year’s growth. Beauty has been destroyed.
In time the tree will be filled with a mass of decayed stubs.
The trees in Fig. 23 have been butchered. Judging from the
location, the owner wanted small trees. He has made the mis-
take of planting Oriental Plane trees, which are naturally a
strong-growing tree. The mistake is made worse by cutting the
trees back in the dormant season, which leaves fewer buds for
the roots to feed when growth starts. This will result in a
stronger growth. Better results would be obtained by pruning
in the growing season. This will check the growth, though the
tree would never have a natural form by either method.
Toh eek Neen SG. s B OROTK 29
FIGuRE 24
The trees shown in Fig. 24-A are old soft maples that have
been planted too closely and permitted to form long, slender,
main limbs, which were apt to be broken by storms. The tops
have been removed without regard to form or future growth.
No protection was provided for the scars and the trees have
been allowed to resume their former faulty habits of growth.
In a few years the limbs will be just as tall and straggly as before,
with the added danger of cavities at the base of the limbs. Just
such a cavity caused the damage shown in Fig. 24-B. Prompt
attention to wounds would have prevented decay and the
consequent damage to the tree and house.
30 THES PE UNAIN G" BODE
Figure 25
The poplars in Fig. 25-A have been damaged by horses
that have chewed the bark. This destruction of the bark leaves
the wood tissues exposed to decay. This would weaken the
trunk and make possible the loss of the tree as in Fig. 25-B.
This damage would have been prevented if proper guards
had been placed around the trees. Where such cavities exist
and the tree is worth the expense, the proper treatment would
be to excavate and treat the cavity as described in the preceding
pages. Where cavities are large enough to make the tree
dangerously weak, the top should be headed back somewhat.
THE PRUNING BOOK 31
Nut Trees
Nut trees should be pruned in such a manner as to produce
a strong frame and maximum bearing surface. Spraying and
harvesting need not be considered, though a tree of too great
eeoe is not desirable; such trees are liable to be damaged by
wind.
A tree of medium height and natural form with strong, well
placed frame, is the most desirable.
The trees should not receive any more pruning than is
needed to produce a strong, well balanced head free from dis-
eased or broken limbs.
Large limbs should not be removed except when absolutely
necessary and all cuts should be sterilized, and those over one
inch in diameter should be painted. Most of the nut trees are
subject to fungus diseases.
The Pecans and Persian walnuts are subject to rapid decay
unless all wounds are protected until healed.
The same general principles apply in pruning nut trees as in
pruning shade trees so far as the framework is concerned.
The Persian walnut should not be pruned in late winter or
early spring, since much damage may result from “bleeding.”
Care should be exercised in making all cuts, and stubs should
never be left in any part of the tree, since decay and possibly
the loss of the tree are almost sure to follow.
Proper attention to the formation of a strong framework
while the tree is young will well repay all the cost during later
years. A careful study of the pruning of young fruit trees as
Saeed on the following pages will be of much assistance in
this work.
32 TES PR NE NG Brongn
Tree Planting
Many failures in orchard or shade tree growing are directly
due to neglect of proper precautions at planting time. Most
trees are in good condition when received from the nursery and
when received should be placed in proper storage until planting
time. One of the best methods is to “‘heel”’ the trees in a trench
so that the tree roots are protected from the drying effect of sun
and wind. The soil should be well packed about the roots and
in case the roots have become dried through exposure, a soaking
with water will be a great help. The preparation of the soil for
planting should be thorough, but will depend largely on the type
of soil and the purpose and extent of planting. The time of
planting will depend on local weather conditions, though the usual
time is as soon as the soil can be properly worked in the spring.
If the trees to be planted are large shade trees, the excavation
should be made large enough to receive the roots without cramp-
ing, and deep enough to permit the tree to stand from two to six
inches deeper than it stood in the nursery row, depending on
the size of the tree. ;
If the trees are small, such as are planted in fruit orchards,
the usual method is to plow a deep furrow where a row of
trees is to stand and use a spade to deepen the furrow at the
points where trees are to be placed.
The trees should not be taken from the trench until there are
places prepared to plant them. The trees should be examined
before planting and all diseased and stunted ones rejected.
Bulletins of the United States Department of Agriculture and
the State Experiment Stations, describing the various diseases,
should be studied, and all trees showing the symptoms of the
disease described should be discarded. A diseased tree cannot
develop properly and may infect the whole orchard.
If the tree is a good one the top and roots should be pruned
as described later and the tree set so that the roots spread
naturally and the soil should be well packed around and between
the roots. Good top soil should be used for this and no stable or
strawy manure should be used in the excavation. A handful
of bone-meal scattered through the soil packed about the roots
will help give the tree a good start, but too much decaying
vegetable matterin contact with the cut roots may cause trouble.
TIDES Pheu NING BOOK 33
Great care should be exercised in filling the excavation to
insure a thorough packing of the soil about the roots.
Orchard trees should be leaned slightly in the direction from
which the prevailing winds come, and after the orchard is set,
two or three light furrows should be turned toward the rows of
trees. This will help to hold them in place and prevent switch-
ing by the wind, which is apt to damage the tender new roots
that are forming.
Large trees should be supported by stakes set at planting
time.
Shade and ornamental trees may need constant watching
during the first summer season, since the greatly diminished
root surface is seldom able to secure moisture enough in dry
weather to support the top.
The same general principles apply to all the tree growth, and
must be taken into account if good results are desired. Vertical
growth is more rapid than horizontal, though with less tendency
to bear fruit. Pruning during the dormant period is followed by
increased growth if not carried to excess, while any pruning
during the growing season tends to check the growth. Any-
thing which checks the growth of a tree induces a more abun-
dant production of fruit buds for the following season. Lack of
water or nitrates, the loss of branches by storms or pruning,
loss of roots or the loss of foliage will all help produce this
result, though if carried to extreme will result in the weakening
and loss of the tree.
34 THE PRUNING) BbOwWkK
FIGURE 26
Fruit Trees
The first four or five years of the tree’s life should be devoted
to root and top growth in order that good crops or a good form
may be obtained, depending on the results desired. If the
tree is for shade or ornament, a well-supported top of pleasing
form with a maximum of healthy foliage is the chief consider-
ation. If the production of fruit is the aim, then a very different
set of conditions must be considered.
The first few years of a tree’s life is a very critical period so
far as the pruning is concerned, since a mistake made then be-'
comes more difficult to correct with each succeeding year. The
framework formed at this period retains its character and posi-
tion during the life of the tree, unless there is a loss of limbs
through accident or pruning.
The work of pruning should commence at the time the tree
is planted. Fig. 26-A shows six typical one-year-old apple
trees as received from the nursery. They have made a good,
straight growth, free from branches. The pruning of these
THE PRUNING BOOK 35
36 THE oP RUIN LNG; BOF OnS
trees will be very simple. The roots should be attended to before
setting the tree. Any broken or badly bruised roots should have
the injured parts removed, and the larger roots should have the
ends cut smooth to aid in the healing process. Very long roots
should be cut back to correspond somewhat with the length of
the other roots.
After setting, the top should be cut off to a point about two
or two and one-half feet above the surface of the ground. This
determines the point at which the head or crotches of the tree
will be formed.
When two-year-old trees are used, such as are shown in
Fig. 26-B, page 34, the height of the tree’s head has usually
been determined by the pruning done in the nursery at the
end of the first year’s growth.
The laterals (a) grew during the second year. They usually
develop better in the open field or orchard than in the nursery
row, and this, combined with the lower price, makes the one-
year-old tree the best for commercial planting.
After the two-year-old tree is set, three or four of the laterals
should be selected as evenly spaced around the tree as possible.
These should be about four to six inches apart in a vertical
direction, and should be shortened as shown by the tree at the
right. The trees will seldom grow in such a manner as to make
this ideal of prunine possible, so the workman should study the
habits of growth of each variety of tree he comes in contact
with, paying particular attention to the type of crotches or
unions made between the trunk and branches. Fig. 27-A-B,
page 35, isan apple tree after one year’s growth, before and after
pruning. The same tree is shown in Fig. 27-C after the second
season’s growth and pruning. This tree has a tendency to very
upright growth, and while the usual framework or scaffold
branches have been selected, others have been permitted to
remain for a few seasons, so that the permanent branches will
make a more spreading growth.
Fig. 27-D shows many stubs (A) and has too many main
limbs, which prevent the proper development of fruit spurs
inside the tree. As the limbs increase in diameter, they will
come in contact at the point indicated by the arrows, which
will tend to split the crotch as the pressure increases.
The tree in Fig. 28-A-B has been pruned so as to leave
two sets of main limbs, one above the other. The upper set will
soon become the dominant one, and unless suppressed by pruning
will soon shade the lower limbs, causing them to weaken and die.
-
TBE) ae RUN LN.G, BO O.K 37
FicureE 28
Most of the trees in the orchard shown in Fig. 28-C have
too many limbs starting at or near the same point. This will,
not leave enough room for them all to develop and will result
in the growth of slender branches.
The four-year-old Rome Beauty apple trees in Fig. 29-A,
page 38, show a very decided tendency to upright growth.
38 Tener ee ROCNeE NG” “B Ong
iii
FIGurE 29
One or two good crops of apples will cause the limbs to spread
and leave the center of the tree more open. The tendency of
this type of tree is to develop a fruiting area outside and under
the axis of the main limb, causing the limb to bend away
from the center of the tree. Study the tree in Fig. 29-B and note
the horizontal development of the main limbs, and the fact that
the most of the load of fruit will be above the axis of the limb
which will have a tendency to twist. The limbs are also more
apt to be injured by teams and tools.
The tree in Fig. 30-A-B, page 39, hasa good form, but is mak-
ing too strong a wood growth to need such severe dormant prun-
ing. The tree would come into profitable bearing much sooner
THE@PRUNING BOOK 39
Figure 30
if some of this pruning were done during the growing season,
which would check wood growth and favor the development of _
fruit buds. Too many of the twigs have been removed from the
lower part of the tree, leaving long, bare branches.
The tree in Fig. 30-C and D has developed its main branches
at an angle of about forty-five degrees, which is about as wide
an angle as is desirable.
40 TE: P RUNING: B OsOik
Ficure 31
The orchard shown in Fig. 31-A is a very good example of
what can be done by intelligent work in a commercial orchard.
Note that the main limbs have been given plenty of room to
develop lateral branches.
THE @#PRUNING BOOK 41
Figure 32
Fig. 31-B, page 40, shows a row of Jonathan apple trees.
These trees are about fifteen years old, and are well branched
and open enough to admit the sunlight so much needed by this
variety to give it color.
The apple usually produces its fruit on spurs or twigs that
are one or more years old, and these twigs should not be pruned
42 THE oP RUN EN’G “BOO
Figure 33
off, even though they appear on the larger limbs. Fruit spurs
on the larger limbs should be encouraged by keeping the top of
the tree thin enough to admit sunlight to the center of the tree.
The trees in Fig. 32-A and B, page 41, are two excellent argu-
mentsin favor of low-headedtrees. Theleaveshave been stripped
from the tree in Fig. 32-B to show the even distribution of fruit.
The fruit from such trees can be gathered with comparative
ease, as most of it can be reached from the ground or short step-
ladders. Since the harvesting of the fruit is one of the largest
single items in the cost of production, it would be wise to con-
sider it at pruning time and so shape the tree as to bring the
bulk of the bearing surface as near the ground as practical.
Objection is made by some to such low limbs, claiming that
they make cultivation difficult. This can hardly be termed a
serious objection, since any cultivation that might be done near
the trunk of trees of this size would probably do more damage
to the large roots than it could do good to the tree as a whole,
and extension disc-harrows and smoothing-harrows would
reach a considerable distance under the low limbs without doing
damage to any part of the tree.
Note that the tree has been so trained that the load of fruit
is carried outside of and under the axis of the main limbs.
THs +PaRwU Ne NG B:O-0 K 43
The twelve-year-old Esopus apple tree in Fig. 33, page 42,
could be made self-supporting by shortening the branches, but
this would also reduce the fruiting area of the tree. The props
are a good solution of the problem where the required labor
and material is available.
EXPERIMENTS IN SUMMER PRUNING
The summer pruning of the apple tree has received very
little attention in most of the commercial orchards, though
there are some fruit growers both in the East and the West that
are getting good results in improved color and quality through
careful summer pruning. The following quotations from Bul-
letin 98, of the University of Idaho Agricultural Experiment
Station, give the results of careful experiments with summer
pruning covering a period of three years:
“The primary object of the experiment was the determination of the
effect of winter vs. summer pruning upon the yield and color of the fruit.
In order to study the problem, the orchard was divided into two blocks.
The trees of one block were pruned in the winter time and those of the other
were pruned in the summer.
““The trees have been so developed that they will produce a good quality
of fruit and at the same time ample wood to bear good crops without the
aid of artificial supports. All the trees were pruned to the open or vase-
shaped type.
““Approximately the same amount of wood was removed in each case.
“The summer pruning was done after the terminal buds had set.
“The work was performed at this time because the trees have practically
finished their growth for the year.
“Tf the summer pruning is done before the trees have ceased growing,
adventitious buds will push out below the cuts, which results in a growth of
shoots. On the other hand, if pruned too late in the season, no opportunity
is given the buds to swell into fruit buds, which is one of the objects sought
by summer pruning.
“1. The data presented in this bulletin on winter versus summer prun-
ing of apple trees, shows the results secured under the two methods for a
period of eleven years. The object of the experimental work was to test
the value of winter pruning compared with summer pruning as measured by
yield and color of fruit. There were four varieties—Jonathan, Rome,
Grimes and Wagener, and seventy-four trees under observation.
“92. The nature of the pruning and the amount of wood removed each
year from both blocks were practically the same.
“3. The average terminal growth in jthe summer-pruned block in 1916
was 15.4 inches; in the winter-pruned block 14.02 inches; a difference in
favor of summer pruning of 1.38 inches.
“4, The measurement of the height and width of all trees in both blocks
at the close of the season’s growth in 1916, shows that summer pruning,
with most varieties, checked the wood growth slightly.
“5. Taking the diameter of the tree trunks as a basis for judging vigor,
we find that the trees are somewhat larger in the winter-pruned block.
The difference, however, is practically insignificant.
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FIGuRE 35
“6. With some varieties, summer pruning has hastened the bearing
of young trees and increased crop production.
“7. The evidence shows that thinning has a direct relation to pruning
and crop production.
“*8. On the basis of the total production for the first seven crops, sum-
mer pruning has produced the greater yield in all varieties. The average
annual increase per tree for each variety was as follows: Jonathan, 5.17
pounds; Rome, 8.37 pounds; Grimes, 7.22 pounds, and Wagener, 40.98
pounds.
“9. With all red varieties of apples under experimentation the color
was intensified as a direct result of summer pruning.
“10. The crop value per acre as determined by both color and yield
shows an average gain in the three summer-pruned plats over winter prun-
ing as follows: Jonathan, $52.33; Rome, $53.64, and Wagener, $30.69.”
PSE BAS Pwo NG! BO OrK 45
FicureE 36
The trees in Fig. 36-A and B are examples of very low and
very high headed trees. These trees are about the same age,
and the tops are about the same size. The low-headed tree is
forming a second series of branches in the center of the top,
which should be removed before it becomes too dominant. The
high-headed tree is a badly formed tree in many ways. It has
a high head that is expensive to prune, spray, or from which to
harvest. It also has a very bad formation of the main branches.
This type of tree will later develop into just such a tree as is
shown in Fig. 36-C, with its weak crotches and long, bare limbs.
The older trees are our best sources of information on many
things. Early mistakes are emphasized and the value of good
care in the early life of the tree is clearly shown.
Fig. 36-D shows some very good crotch formation. The
greatest fault this tree has is the lack of low limbs. This is an
expensive type of tree to harvest fruit from, since most of the
crop must be reached by the use of ladders.
46 DoE PRUNING, BO;OnE
FiGcuReE 37
Fig. 87 shows trees that are typical of most of the neglected
orchards. The younger trees (Fig. 37-A) are still vigorous, but
are too high and dense and are beginning to interfere with each
other. The lower limbs will die and decay, with results similar
to those shown in the older trees, Fig. 37-B.
The trees in Fig. 38-A have been well pruned, though in
some sections with less sunlight they would need to be thinned
a little to admit more air and light. This orchard is in Indiana.
Mey Ena NN G4 BOOK 47
FIGURE 38
A very fine tree is shown in Fig. 38-B. This tree has had all
the room it has needed for its development. The trees in the
background are too close, and as a consequence are forming
high and unprofitable tops, while the more valuable bearing
wood near the ground is becoming shaded and weak.
48 PORE PRU NAN: G. RO
Ficure 39
The first step in renovating a neglected tree is shown in
Fig. 39. All of the dead wood has been removed and some of
the live branches have been thinned out. The wounds should
be treated to prevent decay and induce early healing. There
are a few stubs in the upper part of the tree that should be re-
moved, since they will either die back, causing a larger wound,
THE PRUNING BOOK 49
Figure 40
or they will send out a number of sprouts that will grow at the —
expense of the more valuable parts of the limb. If the thinning
out of the live limbs calls for the removal of very much live
wood, the heading in or lowering of the upper limbs should be
deferred till the next year.
The heading in or dehorning of trees that have developed
limbs above the point where harvesting can be done with profit
is a problem that faces many in the pruning of old orchards.
50 THE PRUNAING’ BODE
Figure 41
Very good and very poor jobs of this type are shown in
Fig. 40-A and B. In the first case, the cutting has been done
in such a way that the general form of the tree has been pre-
served and there is abundant bearing wood to produce a crop
the next season. All the cutting has been done just above lat-
erals, thus leaving wounds that will heal quickly. The second
job is just plain tree butchery.
The tree in Fig. 41-A-B needs some of the upper limbs
removed, but owing to its vigorous condition and the large
PRET eee NANG. BOOK 51
FIGURE 42
amount of live wood removed in the thinning process, any
further cutting should be deferred until the next pruning season.
Fig. 41-C, page 50, shows the result of too close planting.
The lower limbs are being weakened by lack of air and sunlight.
The orchard in Fig. 42-A has been ruined by the removal of
the more valuable lower limbs. These lower limbs can never be
replaced.
Fig. 42-B illustrates the unsanitary condition of many farm
orchards. Such neglect helps the spread of insects and disease,
52 AH PRU SINel ON Ge Biota
Figure 43
prevents proper cultivation, and makes the other orchard work
both unsatisfactory and dangerous.
The chief function of a fruit tree is to produce crops of fruit.
This demands a strong frame, in order that maximum crops
may be borne without injury to the tree. Careless pruning is
practically certain to lead to the formation of cavities at vital
points in the tree, as shown in Figs. 43-A and 43-B. These cavities
form very soon in apple trees, therefore every step should be
taken in the proper treatment of all wounds.
The scar shown in Fig. 48-C is properly made and protected.
If it is kept protected, the new growth will soon cover it and
prevent infection in the future.
Three forms of tree guards are shown in Fig. 44-A, B, and C.,
page 55. These are useful in sections where trees are subject to
THE PRUNING BOOK 53
Figure 44
attacks by rabbits. Fig. 44-D shows a band under which codling
moth larva may hibernate, making it a little easier to find and
destroy them. The most efficient method of combating this
c
FIGurRE 45
54 THEO? BU NENG 1 B:OOok
Figure 46
pest is proper spraying of the tree. Fig. 45-A, B, C, and D
shows various forms of hairy root of the apple. Such trees
should never be planted.
A great deal could be said in connection with the effects of
disease on the work of pruning. Many of the diseases affecting
trees may be spread through the orchard by the careless use of
pruning tools after working in a diseased tree. A large-mouthed
bottle containing corrosive sublimate solution of about 1 to
1000 strength and a swab should be part of every pruning equip-
ment. This should be used in disinfecting the tools at intervals
and especially after working on a diseased tree.
Trees vary in their resistance to disease. This variation is
influenced by many factors, such as variety of fruit, the climate,
soil, density of the foliage, cultural treatment, weather condi-
tions, and insect attacks.
The tree shown in Fig. 46-A has been injured by blight. The
progress of the disease is rapid, and the infection usually starts
in growing twigs that have been injured by insects. Any dis-
eased branches should be removed. The cut should be made
well below the diseased portion. 'This disease may be spread
from tree to tree unless the tools are disinfected.
Fig. 46-B shows the injury caused by the woolly aphis. The
tree will outgrow this defect if the insect is controlled, otherwise
Lote EP EUNIN Ge BOO K 55
FIGURE 47
the limbs will become weak and unable to produce good
fruit. The commercial fruit tree of today is produced by one of
two methods: the grafting of a scion from a tree of the desired
variety on a hardy seedling, or by inserting a bud, taken from
the proper variety, in a slit made in the bark of the stock.
After the bud starts growth, the portion of the stock above the
bud is removed, permitting the new shoot to form the top of
the tree. Fig. 47-A is an apple scion grafted ona seedling root.
The scion has been tied in place and is ready to be waxed and
planted. The wax is applied to the joint, and prevents the tis-
sues becoming dry, which would prevent growth.
Fig. 47-B shows a similar tree after one year’s growth. This
is the ideal tree to plant under most conditions, since there is
a better chance for the top to develop in the field than in the
nursery row.
The tree shown in Fig. 47-C has grown for two years in the
nursery since being grafted. Most of the roots were left in the
ground when the tree was dug. This calls for a correspondingly
heavy pruning of the top at planting time.
Any shoots or suckers that start from below the point where
the tree was grafted should be removed at once. If the tree
is not planted deep enough to prevent these sprouts from form-
ing, there will be constant trouble. All trees should be set four
to six inches deeper than they were in the nursery row.
~
SE ts senses sissies
56 Pe ESOP BU NANG BOOK
Figure 48
Apple trees that bear undesirable varieties of fruit may be
top grafted to any variety wanted, provided the tree is in a
healthy growing condition. The work should be extended over
i BOE PRU Ne ON: G 2B OO K 57
Figure 49
a period of two or three years, since the tree would be too severely
checked if all of its leaf surface were to be removed at one time.
Two methods of doing this work are shown in Fig.48-Aand B,
page 56. The cleft graft method shown in the upper illustration
is good if the branches are small. The limb should be cut off
with a saw at the point where the grafts are to be inserted. The
grafting tool is then used to split the limb and the wedge is used
to open.the cleft enough to receive the scion, which should be
cut in the form of a wedge and inserted so that the cambium of
the scion comes in contact with the cambium of the limb as
much as possible. The second scion should be inserted in the
opposite side of the cleft in the same manner, and the cut sur-
faces and the stub should be covered with grafting wax and
wrapped with strips of cloth to prevent drying of the tissues
until healing commences. Kerf grafting differs only in the way.
the limb is prepared to receive the scion, a saw being used to
cut a notch instead of splitting the limb. This offers less chance
for decay to enter.
Fig. 49 shows the scions after growth has started, as well as
the way in which the wrappings should be applied.
58 PHE APRUNING (BOOK
Figure 50
Fig. 50 shows a large apple tree before top working and after
half of the branches have been grafted. The other branches
may be grafted the next year.
in Poe Nv NG BSO'O.K 59
Figure 51
Fig. 51-A shows the fruit buds of the peach which are formed
on either side of the leaf buds on wood of the current year’s
growth. Fig. 51-B shows the fruiting habit of the plum, while
that of the cherry and apricot are shown by Figs. 51-C and~
51-D. These fruits set fruit buds on both the current year’s
wood and on fruit spurs. It is important that this be remembered
at pruning time.
60 FHEUPRUNING BeOS
FIGuRE 52
The peach tree, like the apple, should be carefully pruned at
planting time. Only one-year-old trees should be planted.
Fig. 52 shows the various steps in the pruning of a typical
peach tree. The head should be formed about eighteen inches
above the ground. Where possible, several nicely placed lat-
erals should be left as shown in Fig. 52-B; these should be
cut short, as in Fig. 52-C-D. The roots need attention, as
a ES
WE PsRyuiNeN:G BrOlworK 61
Figure 53
indicated in Fig. 52-E and F, page 60. Borers should be looked
for just above the roots. Their presence is usually indicated
by the presence of gum or sap on the surface of the bark. If
any are found, they must be dug out to prevent further damage.
The tree should be watched during the first season, and any
undesirable sprouts rubbed off, permitting the more desirable
shoots to develop unhindered. Aside from this, the tree should
not be pruned during the first growing season.
Fig. 53 shows the pruning of a one-year-old peach tree. This
tree was pruned to a straight stalk or whip when planted, and
seven branches have started from it at various points. It may
be noted that the lowest branches have made the strongest
growth. This is generally true of all peach trees, therefore, if
it is desired that the head be formed at a certain point, all
branches starting below that point should be removed as soon
as possible.
The average tree under ordinary culture may be pruned as
severely as the one in Fig. 53, and should make a strong, healthy
growth the following season. Trees that are apt to make very
62 THES Ph NING BOWE
Figure 54
strong growth because of cultural conditions or variety should
be pruned like the tree shown in Fig. 54. The branches have
been left somewhat longer, and some of the lateral twigs have
been retained, so that the next season’s growth will be more
widely distributed.
These lateral twigs should always be tipped; that is, a few
inches of the tip should be removed, which eliminates the weak
buds and permits the more mature buds to continue the growth
in the spring. It may be noted in Fig. 54 that the branches did
not start from the top of the tree, but from a much lower point.
The stub should always be removed close to the top lateral as
shown, so that the wound may heal properly.
Fig. 55-A, page 63, shows a peach tree after the second sea-
son’s growth. This tree has been making good growth, and should
produce a good crop of fruit the next season. Enough of the
small branches or laterals having fruit buds on them are left to
carry this crop. Care should be taken to have these laterals
well distributed, so that air and light may have free access to
all parts of the tree.
TH bee Rew N PN: GB OO: K 63
Figure 55
This tree was tooseverely cut back, but not thinned out enough
after the first season’s growth. If only three instead of six
branches had been retained, and the three been prunedas shown in
Fig.54-B, a much better type of growth would have been secured..
64 THE oP RUN-IN G- B-O1OlK
Figure 56
Fig. 56 shows a typical commercial orchard at the beginning
of the fifth year’s growing season.
THE ®PRUNING BOOK 65
The tree in Fig. 57-A has had the leaves stripped to show the
good set of fruit in the lower part of tree. This low-bearing wood
has been lost through faulty pruning in the treeshownin Fig.57-B,
66 PoE! SP"R UN: TNeG {Be Ongsks
Figure 58
Fig. 58-A shows an advanced stage in the development of a
tree pruned as in Fig. 57-B, page 65; that is, headed in but not
properly thinned out in the top to provide for the multiplying
of the branches. The tree has lost nearly all of its low-bearing
wood through being shaded by the dense growth above. A proper
thinning of the upper part of the tree would have permitted
enough sunlight to reach the lower growth for the proper devel-
Hee bak UeN LoONeG (BeOrOuK 67
FiGureE 59
opment of good fruit. The severe pruning shown in Fig. 58-B,
page 66, was given in order that a new low head might be secured.
Such treatment is also given after winter injury, but otherwise.
need never be called for if the earlier pruning is properly done.
The tree in Fig. 58-C was pruned after the first season’s
growth and then permitted to make three year’s growth with-
out further pruning,
68 THE .PRUNING BO:Ock
FicureE 60
The tree in Fig. 59 has been well pruned, though it is in need
of more thinning unless it is growing in a very sunny locality.
The advantage of an open, low head is quite apparent at
harvest time. The trees in Fig. 60 are easy to cultivate or spray,
and the fruit may be reached easily from the ground or from
short ladders. The sunlight is able to reach all parts of the tree,
insuring a better development of the foliage, and fruit having
finer flavor and color than could be expected from trees as dense
as those shown in Fig. 61-A and B, page 69. Sunlight is essential
to the development of good flavor and color in fruit of any
kind, and the admission of sunlight to all parts of the tree should
be kept in mind when pruning a fruit tree.
The trees shown in Fig. 61-A and B are growing in Eddy
County, New Mexico, and have retained their vigor in spite of
their dense tops because of the good soil and abundant sunlight.
They were ten years old when photographed. Most of the bearing
wood is in the top of the tree, which makes harvesting difficult.
The forming of a low head does not insure a low top, as may
be seen in Fig. 61-C. This tree has a low head, but the main
branches have been stripped of their low laterals, leaving the
bearing surface of the tree very high.
1 Eee iy Cee NON G*-"B:0:0 K 69
Figure 61
The pruning of all the stone fruits does not vary much from
the treatment called for by the peach. They all should be so
pruned that the tree will make a healthy growth each year
without becoming too dense, or too large. This will mean a
systematic cutting back and thinning of the growth each year.
70 THES 22 R USN NGG = 1B OZOaKk
FIGuRE 62
With the exception of the cherry, which is the largest of the
stone fruit trees, a large size is seldom attained before the tops
show signs of decline and the tree attempts to send out new
growth near the trunk.
The plum is very apt to set more fruit than it can properly
mature, and small fruit, weakened trees, and increased decay are
the result unless the fruit is thinned when about half grown.
Fig. 62 shows a well-pruned Burbank plum tree. The fruit is
being thinned.
ini Ey Pane Nek NG? BOcO.K 71
FIGuRE 63
The plum trees in Fig. 63 have very well placed limbs, though
the tops are too thick for the best development of the fruit.
Apricots and prunes need the same general treatment as the
peach and plum.
The cherry needs careful pruning every year. The open
head is the best form for most sections, since the fruit requires
an abundance of air and sunlight for the best development and
freedom from disease.
A sweet cherry tree will form long, slender branches unless
careful heading back is practiced during the early life of the
tree. Most sweet cherries are upright in their growth, and care
should be taken to prevent them from becoming too high. Both
sweet and sour cherries will bear good crops on their lower
limbs if. the tops of the trees are kept open and low. It should
be remembered that the harvesting of the cherry crop is a tedi-
ous and expensive operation, and that broad, low heads will
bear the most profitable crops.
The sour cherry is more spreading in its growth than the
sweet cherry, and is apt to form a dense top. Unless the top
is kept open, the lower limbs soon become weak and die.
Pear trees are upright in their habit of growth, and have a
72 TREO Bak ONE NG BO ame
FIGuRE 64
tendency to form a top that is too thick. Some growers have
tried to overcome the upright growth by heading back the vertical
shoots, as has been done for several years in the case shown
in Fig.64-A, with the result of forming very stiff, upright branches
that become so crowded that fruit will not develop properly.
The trees in Fig. 64-B have been headed in closely the first
two years and then allowed to grow without cutting back,
except to keep the tree in good form, the chief attention being
given to thinning out the branches so that they would have
abundant room for development. These branches will be bent
outward with the heavy crops of pears, and will need attention
during the growing season or they will become overloaded and
break. After harvest the branches will be apt to retain their
horizontal position. This will check their growth and induce
them to set heavy crops of fruit. If too many pears are set on
a limb, the leaves will not be able to supply enough food and
the fruit will be small and of poor quality.
TSH hy Penson LING: BiO;0-K ie
Figure 65
The pruning of the raspberry is a very simple though tedious
operation. The plants send out new shoots each year from the
base of the plant, as shown in Fig. 65-B. These shoots bear
fruit the following season. The fruit is borne on the end of
short laterals, as shown in Fig. 65-A and C, which grow from
74 TOE BPR OON- TE NG BIOs
FIGuRE 66
buds on the one-year-old canes. These canes die after one sea-
son’s fruiting, and should be removed immediately after harvest.
Fig. 65-D, page 738, shows raspberry plants with the old
fruited canes removed and the new canes which will bear the
next season.
The raspberries shown in Fig. 66-A are being grown under
the hedge system, The canes are not given any artificial sup-
THESE RUNING BOOK 75
FIGURE 67
port. This is not advisable where the canes make over four
feet of growth.
Two methods of supporting the canes are shown in Fig.
66-B and C, page 74.
The old canes that are removed after fruiting in the summer
should be burned.
76 THE =P RUNLELN G. BOOK
FIGuRE 68
The canes should be cut back to healthy wood in the spring,
and all weak or diseased canes removed. The canes may be
tied in place at this time and will need no further pruning until
after fruiting.
Fig. 67-A, page 75, illustrates the supporting of the canes with
stakes. A fruit spray of the dewberry is shown in Fig. 67-B and
DHE Seek U NIN G 7B OOK
Figure 69
the method of supporting the fruiting canes in Fig. 67-C. The
new canes for next year’s crop may be seen trailing on the ground.
The dewberry may be tied to wires, but since the canes are
so small, and easily bent and broken, the stakes make the best
support.
The pinching back or heading in of the raspberry canes
78 THE PRUNING BOOK
7 Bie
with |S
FIGurE 70
tobe PR we NE NG | BO. OK 79
foes
NS
=
& Y Ng :
s sd 4
St aN; if ~ a
4 PE INES is ‘A
W\VALGE
th, A
i J wir vy { VA ee
Pr cin {Map
* “a
jd
om ere
Figure 71
during the growing season is not advised unless no means of
support can be provided. The top row of Fig. 68, page 76, shows
how branching may be encouraged by this summer pruning: A,
the cane and then the laterals pinched back; B, the main cane
80 HOE, PRIN TONG, eB OrORk
FIGURE 72
only pinched back; C, not summer pruned. The bottom row
shows the same plants after the early spring pruning.
The summer pruning of the blackberry induces fruit bearing.
The blackberry and logan blackberry produce their fruit in
the same way as does the raspberry; that is, on one-year-old
canes that die after producing one crop, and should receive the
same general treatment. Fig. 69-A, page 77, shows a logan
blackberry after the fruited canes have been removed and the
new canes tied in place so they can continue their development.
Fig. 69-B shows the base of the same plant and the stubs left
when the old canes were removed. These stubs should have
been cut much shorter.
The currant produces the best fruit from buds on one and
HSE a RewiN SIN IG BOOK 81
two-year-old wood. The bush should be encouraged to send up
a few new shoots from the root each year to take the place of
those that have fruited three or four years.
Fig. 70, page 78, shows how a currant should be pruned to
permit air and light to reach all parts of the top and to leave
room for the development of new shoots.
Gooseberries and currants may be pruned to a tree form as
shown by the currant in Fig. 71-A and B, page 79, and the
gooseberry in Fig. 71-C and D. This is not advisable, since
borers are apt to destroy the entire plant. The renewal of the
bearing wood is also much more difficult.
Great care should be taken to burn all trimmings, since
borers and disease are carried over winter in the small twigs.
Dead or dying canes should be removed and burned as soon as
detected.
The gooseberry produces the best fruit on the one-year-old
wood. Care should be taken to keep the bushes well pruned
so that new wood may have enough room in which to develop
without interfering with the fruit. All weak and trailing canes
should be removed. The best time to prune the bush fruits is
during the dormant season, though some of the oldest canes
ney be removed after the fruit is picked, if the bushes are too
ense.
Intelligent pruning of the grape calls for an understanding
of the bearing habit of the vine and how pruning affects the
growth of wood and the bearing of fruit.
The grape bears its fruit on shoots that grow from the lat-
eral buds of canes that grew the previous season. When prun-
ing the vines, enough of this one-year-old wood should be saved
to produce the crop, and new canes should be permitted to grow
each year to provide this fruiting wood. If the vine is closely
pruned so that only a small crop of fruit is produced, the vine
will have a tendency to make a strong growth, while a vine so
pruned that a heavy crop of fruit is set will not be apt to make
much wood growth.
The vines should be pruned when set, leaving only two or
three buds with which to start growth. When the new shoots
have reached a length of about three or four inches, the strongest
one should be selected and all the others removed. If this is
not done the vine usually will not produce a shoot long enough ~
to reach the trellis wire. If the vine does not produce a shoot
long enough the first season, it should be cut back to two buds
the following winter and receive the same summer treatment
that was given the first year,
82 T BE JPR: Neo NG. BOO
FIGuRE 73
A trellis should be erected at the end of the first year and a
ce made as to the system of training to be followed in the
uture.
Fig. 73 shows the successive steps in the development of the
framework of the vine under two different systems.
Fig. 73-A shows the pruning at the end of the second,
third, and fourth years in the development of a vine supported
on an overhead trellis. Future renewal of bearing arms should
be made from a point at or near the head of the vine, which,
in this case, is near the wires at the top of the stake.
The pruning given at the end of the second, third, and
fifth years to a vine trained to six horizontal arms is shown in
Fig. 73-B. Both of these vines have been pruned by the spur
method; that is, the previous season’s growth is cut back to
one or two buds during the dormant season. These buds pro-
duce the bearing shoots for the next crop. This method is not
as good as the long cane renewal, since the best bearing shoots
come from the buds near the middle of the cane. Fig. 74 shows
the same vine that is shown in Fig. 73-B, after the fourth sea-
son’s growth and before pruning. Instead of cutting all the
canes back to spurs having one or two buds, a better crop
THE Eee NEN G ~B O.O:K 83
FiGureE 74
would be secured if each arm of the vine were pruned like those
of the four-arm vine shown in Fig. 75-A, page 84, which was
pruned by the long-cane renewal method. Instead of cutting back
each cane on the arm to a spur having one or two buds, two canes
are selected which grow from the arm as close to the main stem
of the plant as possible, and the balance of the arm is removed
and the best cane is tied in its place. This cane will produce
the crop and if too long may be cut back, reducing the crop.
The other cane is cut back to a spur having one or two buds,
which will provide a good cane for renewal the next season.
Each arm should be given the same treatment each spring.
Fig. 75-B, page 84, shows a vine pruned according to long-
renewal principles. Spurs have been left at the base of each
cane for the purpose of producing canes for renewal next season.
The long canes may be left long or short, depending on the
strength of the vine and the space to be occupied.
Fig. 75-C has been pruned according to a modification of the
long-renewal system, using more canes and cutting them back
to six or eight buds.
84 THE PR RUN LNG (BOOK
FicuRE 75
ht Bh) a) PRN te N; Gey, Be OO) ik 85
FIGuRE 76
Fig. 76 shows two modifications of the fan system of training
and long renewal. While the long renewal of the bearing wood
ss much better than spur renewal, the system of training must
depend on the location, climate, variety, and type of sup-
port. This training will vary from the overhead trellis sup-
ported Rotundifolia to the stool or unsupported vines of the
stockier varieties of Vinifera.
All dormant pruning of the grape should be done before the
sap starts in the spring to prevent loss of strength by bleeding.
86 TEE. PRUNEN:G *-B:O. G28
Figure 77
The pruning of vines will depend on the purpose for which
the vine was planted. If the vine is to be used only for shade
or to cover some unsightly place, the only pruning required
would be the removal of dead portions and a heading in of
shoots that were growing beyond bounds. Vines planted for
their bloom or fruit should receive more careful treatment.
Fig. 77 shows a wisteria as an example of this type of vine. It
should be noted that the heaviest set of bloom is on those por-
tions of the vine that are horizontal or are hanging down.
Horizontally trained shoots have a tendency to bloom and bear
fruit or seed while vertically trained shoots tend to rapid growth
at the expense of bloom.
Such vines as the wisteria should not be heavily pruned
during the dormant season, since much of the blooming wood
will be removed at that time. Only remove dead wood and
defer the main pruning until the vine has bloomed. Occasional
heading in of strong growing shoots and a little thinning of
dense portions of the vine will help in the production of late
bloom. Great care should be exercised to prevent portions of
the vine growing around or through any part of the wood work,
since the future growth of the vine may destroy the wood work
or make it impossible to remove the vine from the building
when painting or repairs are needed.
PH EP hve N i NG; -B OOK 87
FIGuRE 78
The pruning of blooming shrubs seems to be a greatly mis-
understood subject, since very few are properly pruned.
88 THE PRUNING BOOK
Figure 79
Shrubs will produce more bloom and a better appearance if
permitted to retain their natural form. If a formal effect is
desired, a hedge plant such as privet or box should be used.
Fig. 78-A, page 87, shows Forcythia in bloom, while 78-B
shows a spring flowering magnolia. These bloom from buds
formed the previous season, and much of the bloom would be lost
if the pruning was done in the dormant season. Such shrubs may
have the broken or diseased parts removed while dormant, but
the general pruning should be deferred until after the blooming
period. First all dead or weak shoots should be removed, then
the canes that have been growing for a number of years should
be taken out to make room for the younger growth. The best
bloom is borne on wood that is from one to three years old.
On such shrubs as Forcythia, the bloom on the older wood is
borne in clusters on spurs and from lateral buds in the case of
the one-year-old wood.
Some spring-blooming shrubs send out short shoots termin-
ating in a cluster of bloom. These shoots spring from the lat-
eral buds of the previous year’s growth. Like the Forcythia,
these should be pruned immediately after blooming, so as to
encourage the formation of new wood.
Fig. 79 shows the abundance of bloom obtained when the
shrubs are properly thinned and pruned after blooming,
O08 aun
89
BOOK
YG
NI
PRU
x
4
TH
90 THE OP RUN TN G £5:0:0.K
Ficure 81
A careful shaping of the bush after blooming will produce
better results than the shearing that is sometimes given in the
spring in an effort to give a good form to the bush. The location
should be considered when determining the form of the bush.
The shrub in Fig. 80-A, page 89, has a good form for its position,
but would not appear as well in a shrubbery border as the one
in Fig. 80-B, which is so formed that it becomes a part of the
mass of shrubbery.
PG eb WIN TONG vB OOK 91
FiGuRrE 82
The catalpa tree shown in Fig. 81, page 90, shows one way
to prevent the splitting of limbs to which this tree is subject.
This tree should be thoroughly thinned out each year, as shown,
or the dense foliage will be injured by disease.
The pruning of a privet hedge is a very simple operation;
still, a few of the principles of plant growth must be taken into
consideration if a dense, well-shaped hedge is desired.
The first pruning should be given at planting time. The
plants should be set in a trench as in Fig. 82-A and the soil
firmly packed about the roots to within about two inches of
the top of the trench. This will make watering easy, and the
trench may be entirely filled the next year. After setting, the
plants should be pruned to a point even with the top of the
trench and then be permitted to grow the entire season without
further pruning. The second spring the hedge should be cut
to a uniform height of about four inches. When most of
the shoots have reached a length of ten inches, the hedge
should be trimmed to a height of about eight inches and the
side branches pruned to give a uniform width throughout the
length of the hedge. The top of the hedge should never be
permitted to become greater in width than the bottom or the
lower branches will become weak and possibly die,
92
Figure 83
The succeeding prunings should not permit the hedge to
increase more than two or three inches in height or width until
the desired size is reached, after which the hedge should be
pruned often enough to keep it in good form. This gradual
growth in size will insure a dense hedge from the ground up.
The hedge in Fig. 82-B, page 91, was not cut low enough when
planted. The result is a weak hedge with little or no growth
near the ground. The only remedy is to cut the hedge back
as shown and start over again.
ROSES
The pruning of the rose is influenced by the variety and
location as well as the purpose for which the plant is grown. If
individual blooms of high quality are wanted, the bushes
should be severely pruned. Where a mass of bloom is desired,
remove the old and dead wood, cutting back the plants one-half.
The teas and hybrid teas should be more severely pruned
than any other variety. Fig. 88 shows the pruning of a hybrid
tea rose. The weak shoots were entirely removed and the three
remaining shoots cut back to about one-third their former
height. If the plant had not made so much growth, the pruning
TE AR Cate Net Ni GB OvO TK 93
FicureE 84
should be more severe. Fig. 84-A is the same plant at blooming
time. Note the long stems and compare it with the. bush
in Fig. 84-B, which was not so closely pruned. ‘The second bush
was left with canes about fourteen inches long. It has produced
eleven blooming shoots with stems about one-half of the length
of those on the first plant. Note that the growth is not well
distributed on the second bush. The unsightly stems are not
hidden by the foliage, and unless closely pruned after the first
blooming the plant is not apt to produce enough strong, new
canes for renewal.
If not removed sooner, every bloom should be removed as
soon as the petals begin to fall. The cut should be made so as
to leave only one or two buds at the base of the shoot. These
will start growth soon and reproduce the shoot that has been
removed.
The rose shown in Fig. 85-A and B, page 94, has been very
poorly pruned. It has only been headed in each year without
thinning the branches. The top is too dense to permit the growth
of new shoots from near the ground, or to develop a good crop of
bloom. One-half of the wood shown in Fig. 85-B should be
removed, leaving the youngest.
Many hybrid tea roses are budded on strong gr owing stocks.
94 "PELE. SPR NG NG Beas
Figure 85
THE SPP RANI NG: BO.0 K 95
Figure 86
These stocks often send up suckers, which, if permitted to grow;
would rob the more desirable top of proper nourishment, caus-
ing it to die. These suckers have leaves with seven leaflets, and
the tea and hybrid teas have leaves with only five leaflets.
The pruning of the hybrid perpetuals for cut flowers is the
96 THE-PRUNING* BOOK
same as given the hybrid teas. All of the old wood should be
removed and the new canes thinned out in the spring. These
canes should be cut back to about six inches. Fig. 85-C and D,
page 94, shows a rose of this type and the proper pruning to give.
If a quantity of bloom iswanted, two or three of the strongest one-
year-old canes should be selected and all other wood removed.
These canes will produce blooming shoots along their entire
length if bent over in a horizontal position and tied to stakes
to keep them in place. See explanation Fig. 86-C, page 95.
Rugosa roses need only a little thinning out of the old canes
each year.
The brier roses usually bloom on shoots that grow from lat-
erals, and should not be as closely pruned as the ramblers;
only removing enough of the oldest wood each spring to let
light and air reach all parts of the bush.
The ramblers and climbing teas should be pruned after
blooming and all wood that has bloomed removed. The best
bloom is produced on the one-year-old canes. Fig. 86-A, page
95, shows a rambler that did not receive the proper treatment
after blooming the previous season. The dead cane was per-
mitted to bloom for two years and did not have strength enough
to start out the third year.
The greatest bloom is obtained from climbers when the canes
are trained in a horizontal position. Note that the vertical
canes in Fig. 86-B are devoid of bloom or leaf growth. This is
better shown by Fig. 86-C. The cane marked (a) was trained
in a vertical position and has bloomed from the upper third of
the cane only, as indicated by the stubs. The cane marked (b)
was trained in a horizontal position for blooming, and has
bloomed along its entire length. Both canes were cut from the
plant within six inches of the ground.
LER wUN I N'G: BOOK 97
Tools
The work of pruning demands tools that are both sharp and
well constructed. A dull tool makes a poor cut and wastes
the workman’s patience and strength. These tools should
also be well designed so that they will perform properly the
work for which they were purchased. The various operations
of pruning call for equipment differing widely in construction
and use. These different types of tools are also modified to
suit the varied tastes and demands of the individual workman.
We respectfully call attention to the wide variety and high
quality of the Disston line of pruning tools.
There are many calls for a tool that will remove branches
that cannot be reached with ordinary tools. ‘“‘The Little
Giant” and “The Orchard’’,—pruning hook and saw,—
mounted on a pole of the required length are ideal tools for this
type of work. The pruning saw and knife No. 20, the pruning
saws Nos. 10, 11, and 111, are also good tools for this work.
The removal of large limbs demands a saw with a long nar-
row blade. Numbers 3, 7, 714, D-24, D-26 and the York State
Pruner are of this type.
The tapered pruning saws are adapted to the general work
of pruning in both the orchard and the shade trees. Ten dif-
ferent patterns are offered.
A type of saw designed to cut when drawing the saw toward
you is much used in grape pruning. These saws have curved
blades and are made in seven patterns. One of these has a
folding handle which permits the saw to be carried easily in
the pocket.
The writer does not advise the use of the double-edged pruning
saw, but for those who demand such a tool, a choice of five
patterns is offered. Illustrations of these saws may be found
in the general catalog.
The Disston Hedge Shears are designed for the trimming of
the privet and similar hedges.
The hand shear is one of the most important tools used in
the work of pruning.
T MoE. PRUNING eB.O mE
“LITTLE GIANT”
PRUNING HOOK AND
SAW |
SIMPLE AND DURABLE
The Knife and Saw are both made of
Disston Steel. The tool is strong and
durable. The Saw may be detached when
its use is not required for cutting large limbs.
This Pruner fills a long-felt need, as it
combines two useful tools in one, without
increase of cost to the user.
The Saw-blade is attached to the Hook by
means of two clamp-screws, as shown in the
accompanying illustrations, which also show
the method of attaching a Pole or Handle.
We also make a Pruning Hook of this style
without the Saw Attachment.
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No. 20
This Saw is designed for attachment to a pole, so that the upper branches
of trees can be reached without the aid of a ladder. Either the Knife or Saw
may be used as required. When desired, the Pole can be detached; the socket
on the Frame forms an excellent handle.
The peculiar formation of the Tooth enables the Saw to cut both ways,
causes an equal strain on the limb being cut, insures smooth and rapid cutting,
and prevents the saw from becoming jammed in cutting green wood. Length
of saw, 10 inches.
TWh Pe NING BOOK 99
‘THE ORCHARD”? PRUNING HOOK
AND SAW
This tool meets general requirements.
The economy of combining two tools in
one will be appreciated.
The Knife and Saw are made of Diss-
ton Steel, and can be used with or with-
out a pole. Although possessing great
strength, the tool is of light construction,
with crescent shaped blade, which has
long, slender teeth, so formed as:to draw
the saw into the wood. It is particularly
adapted for sawing the smaller branches
in general pruning.
The Saw Blade, which is attached to
the Hook by two clamp-screws, can be
removed when the Hook only is required.
We can furnish this style of Pruning
Hook without the Saw attachment if so
desired.
Malleable iron handle, Japanned, with
socket.
No. 111 PRUNING SAW
Similar in quality and style to “The Orchard,” without Pruning Hook.
~
Malleable iron handle, Japanned, with socket. Disston Steel, crescent-
shaped blade, 10 inches in length; long, slender teeth.
The blade is fastened to handle with wing-nut and so arranged that it may
be adjusted to any angle. Can be used with or without a pole.
100 EHE oRRUNING BODE
DISSTON TABLE AND PRUNING SAW, No. 7
os sot OMe \
i ee ‘
AAV WIN RU A I NO
Disston Steel, Grained Blade, Warranted, Apple Handle, Polished Edge,
Brass Screws.
BROWN’S TABLE AND PRUNING SAW, No. 3
Grained Blade, Apple Handle, Polished Edge, Brass Screws.
YORK STATE PRUNER
Beech Handle, Varnished Edges, Brass Screws, Narrow Steel Blade, Blued.
Length of Blade, 20 inches; five inches wide at butt, one inch at point.
Toothed seven points to the inch.
GRAPE PRUNER
Hardwood, Open Grip Handle, Brass Screws, Disston Steel Blade, 1014
inches long, 134 inches wide at butt, 34 inch at point.
HO een UO Net NG 7B O-OUK 101
TAPERED PRUNING SAWS
Polished Steel Frames, Disston Steel Blades, Hardwood Handles. These
are specially desirable Pruning Saws, the shape of Frame permitting their
use in narrow spaces. 14-inch Blades.
POMONA, No. 8
DOUBLE SWIVEL, No. 9
Adjustable Blade.
“THE FOREST,’’ No. 10
Without Pole. Socket Handle, Adjustable Blade.
CLIMAX, No. 12
Adjustable Blade.
102 fo E SP RUN DTN Ge’ BO Ok
TAPERED PRUNING SAWS
No. 16
Flat steel back, narrow tapered point, Beech handle, two nickel-plated
screws. Handle has extra large grip for use in gloved hand. Swivel stretcher.
Blued steel blade, 14 inches long.
No. 17
Oval steel back, straight tapered point, Beech handle, three nickel-plated
screws. Handle has extra large grip for use in gloved hand. -Blued steel
blade, 20 inches long.
NEW YORK PATTERN, No. 18
Flat steel back, narrow pen point, Beet heats three brass screws.
Handle has extra large hand-hold for use in gloved hand. Blued steel blade,
181% inches long.
No. 19
Flat steel ney narrow pases notbe: nen ees three brass screws.
Handle has extra ‘large hand-hold for use in gloved hand. Swivel stretcher
blued steel blade, 18 inches long. ee
oO.
Flat steel er: slightly tapered, riveted sockets, swivel stretcher. Beech
handle, two nickel-plated screws. Blued steel blade. Length 14 inches centre
to centre of holes.
tA eR EON N-G «B'O.0-K 103
PRUNING SAWS
CALIFORNIA, No. 50
penne
Curved Beech handle, 3 brass screws. Crescent-shaped Disston Steel
Blade, slender teeth similar to the “Orchard” Pruner. Made with 12-inch
blade only.
No. 52
Straight Beech handle, 3 brass screws. Crescent-shaped Disston Stee
Blade.
ADELAIDE, No. 60
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Special shaped, Disston steel blade, teeth arranged to cut on the draw
stroke; comfortably shaped handle; two screws. Made with 12, 14, and 16
inch blades.
104 Pon BP ORO NN Be
PRUNING SAWS
No. 7%
Similar to the No. 7 Ship Pattern Handsaw, with the exception of extra
large hand-hold for use in gloved hand, slightly heavier blade, and coarser
teeth for pruning.
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Narrow Point Disston Steel Blade, Copper Handle with Beechwood Grip.
No. D-26
WA iii
Similar to the No. D-20 Handsaw, with the exception of extra large hand-
hold for use in gloved hand, slightly heavier blade, and coarser teeth for
pruning. The 26-inch is fitted with five brass screws; 24-inch, and smaller,
with four brass screws.
ADJUSTABLE POLE PRUNER, No. 11
Without Pole.
Adapted for sawing by hand or attached to a pole. The Handle is made of
malleable iron, with socket, and the Blade of Disston Steel. Adjustable for
sawing at different angles.
Eee Geaby UN ION Gi) LB: O'O.K. 105
FOLDING PRUNING SAW, No. 38
Length when open, 1634 inches. Length when folded, 1234 inches.
This Saw is designed to meet the demand for a Pruning Saw which can be
carried easily in the pocket. The crescent-shaped blade, 10 inches long, is of
well-tempered Disston-made Steel. The teeth, long and slender, are specially
formed to draw the saw into the wood, easily making a clean cut. The saw
cuts on the draw stroke. The handle is of hardwood, shaped to give a com-
fortable, firm grip, with a slot near the end to accommodate blade when
folded.
DISSTON HEDGE SHEARS, No. 101
Blades 614 inches long.
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