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RAMBLES IN SPAIN

SPANISH COURTSHIP.
Tainting by J. Garcia y Ramoe.

Rambles in Spain

JOHN D. FITZGERALD, Ph.D.

Romance Department, University of Illinois ; Member of

Hispanic Society of America ; Corresponding

Member of Spanish Royal Academy

ILLUSTRATED

New York
THOMAS Y. CROWELL & CO.

Publishers

Published September, 1910.

My Wife
in grateful recognition of
her inspiring companionship

PREFACE

THE following chapters were built up
from letters written by the author
during two visits to Spain. The first
was in the summer of 1899; the second
began in 1900 and continued until 1902. In
writing those letters the author relied con-
stantly upon Baedeker's admirable and inval-
uable handbook of Spain and Portugal for
statements concerning distances, dimensions
of buildings and monuments, and assign-
ments thereof to a given school or style of
art. This was also done in the present
work and the author takes pleasure in add-
ing his testimony to that of other travelers
concerning the meticulous exactness of Bae-
deker's information.

Any one familiar with the opening chapter
of Professor James Fitzmaurice-Kelly's de-
lightful manual of Spanish Literature will

vii

PREFACE

have no difficulty in recognizing the source,
here gratefully acknowledged, from which
the author drew the inspiration for the treat-
ment given to certain features of the first
chapter of this work.

During 1909 these chapters appeared as a
Reading Journey Through Spain, in The
Chautauquan. In revising and expanding
them for this volume it was deemed wise not
to alter the slightly personal and didactic tone
of the original version.

As the author did not visit the Northwest,
nor the extreme West and Southwest of Spain,
he has given no chapters on those sections.
For the Northwest and West, however, the
omission is not much to be regretted, as the
reader may easily turn to the delightfully
written and beautifully illustrated Note-
Book in Northern Spain, by Mr. Archer
M. Huntington. In the opinion of the pres-
ent writer, the long and interesting chapter
upon the bull ring has not its equal in
English.

The illustrations ascribed to Laurent,
Beauchy, Esplugas, Puig, and Garzon, and

viii

PREFACE

the paintings by J. Llovera and J. Garcia y
Ramos, as well as three whose photographers
are not known (Burgos, Arch of Santa Maria;
Barcelona, Paseo de Colon, and Guerrita
Preparing to Kill) are from copies in the pos-
session of the Hispanic Society of America.
The author's thanks are due to the Society
for permission to reproduce the photographs
which it has copyrighted. Several of the
illustrations are here reproduced by the cour-
tesy of the authors and publishers of other
works, and acknowledgment is duly made
in each case. Other illustrations are from
photographs purchased by the author en
route; where the photographer's name is
known it is given, whereas in the contrary
cases that fact is stated. Where no credit
is given with the illustration it must be under-
stood to have been made from a photograph

by the author.

John D. Fitz-Gerald.

New York City,
July 1, 1910.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE

I. The Country and the People ... 1

II. The Basque Provinces 35

III. Old Castile 65

IV. Salamanca 113

V. New Castile 135

VI. Andalucia 171

VII. Granada 193

VIII. Zaragoza 215

IX. Cataluna 229

X. Valencia 261

Index . . 293

ILLUSTRATIONS

Spanish Courtship. Painting by J. Garcia y

Ramos Frontispitc*

FACING PAGE

Map of Spain, Showing Old Kingdoms and

Principalities 1

Alfonso XIII, King of Spain 4

Victoria, Queen of Spain 8

After the Bath. Painting by J. Sorolla y

Bastida 15

Old Castilian Peasant. Painting by J. So-
rolla y Bastida 17

Gypsy Bull-Fighter's Family (Portraits).

Painting by I. Zuloaga 20

Mademoiselle Lucienne Breval as Carmen.

Painting by I. Zuloaga 22

Sea Idyll. Painting by J. Sorolla y Bastida 25

La Cigarrera 28

Isabel II, Queen of Spain. Painting by Ma-

drazo 31

Francisco de Asis, King-Consort of Spain.

Painting by Madrazo 38

Panorama of San Sebastian, .between 42 and 43
Baile de Candil. Painting by J. Llovera ... 46

Pasajes: General View of the Harbor 49

Peasants of the Province of Bizcaya 52

Burgos: Bridge, Arch of Santa Maria, and

Cathedral 65

: Cathedral 68

xiii

ILLUSTRATIONS

FACING PAGE

Valladolid: Facade of San Pablo 73

Avila: City Walls: Along the Rastro 76

: Gate of the Bridge 76

: North Wall ................ 79

: Puerta de San Vicente 79

Segovia: General View of the Roman Aque-
duct 86

: View of the Alcazar (from the Cuesta

de los Hoyos) 89

: View of the Alcazar (from the Grot-
toes) 92

La Granja : Fountain 95

: Gardens 95

Segovia: Peasants of the Province 98

El Paular : Tabernacle. View from the Lower

Altar 102

: Tabernacle. View from the Upper Altar 102

Segovia : La Casa de los Picos 106

Salamanca: La Plaza Mayor 110

Luis Mazzantini and Cuadrilla 113

Guerrita Preparing to Kill 113

Salamanca: Facade of the House of the Shells 115

: Plazuela de la Universidad, and Statue

of Fray Luis de Leon 116

: Portal of the University, and Back of

Statue of Fray Luis de Leon . . 118

: University. Professional Chair of

Fray Luis de Leon 121

: . Lecture Room of Fray Luis de

Leon 121

: University. Library Interior 122

xiv

ILLUSTRATIONS

FACING PAGE

The Lances (The Surrender of Breda).

Painting by Velazquez 124

The Duchess of Alba. Painting by Goya . . 127

El Escorial: La Silla del Rey 129

Madrid: Street Scene 129

Salamanca: Exterior of the Lantern of the

Old Cathedral 130

: Charro, or Peasant of the Province . . 130

El Escorial: General View of the Monastery

and Palace 132

Alcala de Henares: Archiepiscopal Palace.

Facade of the Right Wing . . 134

. Reception Hall 134

University. Facade 137

. Paraninfo 137

Guadalajara: Palace of the Duque del Infan-

tado. Facade 138

. Portal 138

Gorge of the Henares River 140

Road Looking toward the Station . . . 140

Peasants of the Province 143

Toledo: Peasants of the Province 145

: Peasants of the Province 145

: Alcazar, and Gorge of the Tagus River 148

: Bird's-eye-view from the Top of the

Alcazar 148

: Cathedral 150

: Interior of Santa Maria la Blanca ... 153

: San Juan de los Reyes. Cloister Gallery 154

: . Cloister Patio 154

: Puerta del Sol 156

ILLUSTRATIONS

FACING PAGE

Toledo: Puerta Vigagra Antigua 156

: Plaza de Zocodover 159

Alcald de Henares : Threshing Floor 161

C6rdoba : Moorish Bridge 161

: Street Scene and Characteristic Types 164

: Street Scene 166

: Girls Washing Clothes 166

: Interior of the Mosque 168

: Patio de los Naranjos, of the Mosque 170

: City Gate and Mosque, from the Bridge

Over the Guadalquivir 170

: Native Girls at the Fountain in the

Patio de los Naranjos, of the

Mosque 172

: Patio of the Casino de la Amistad ... 175

: Summer House of the Marques de la

Vega de Armijo 175

Sevilla: Cathedral Tower: Called La Giralda 177
Vision of St. Anthony of Padua. Painting

by Murillo 178

Sevilla: Facade of the Alcazar 180

: Alc&zar. Court of the Damsels and

Facade of the Salon of the Am-
bassadors 182

: Alameda de Hercules 185

: Torre del Oro 185

: Gardens of the Alcazar 186

: The Amphitheater at Italica 188

: Park of Maria Luisa 190

: Patio of the Casa de Pilatos 190

xvi

ILLUSTRATIONS

FACING PAGE

Malaga : Hoyo, or Gorge, of the Guadalhorce

River 192

— — : Hoyo, or Gorge, of the Guadalhorce

River 192

: View Looking East from the Beach of

the Cafe Hernan Cortes 197

: Mediterranean Coast, Looking East

from the Beach of the Cafe

Hernan Cortes 197

: The Alameda, with the Alcazaba and

the Gibralfaro in the Distance . . 198
Granada: The Alhambra. Patio de los

Leones 201

: . Hall of Justice, and Patio de

los Leones . 202

Garden of the Generalife 204

Gypsies Dancing the Fandango 207

Gypsy Types 209

The Guadalhorce River near Bobadilla 210
La Pena de los Enamorados. View

from Archidona 210

Gypsy Types 212

The Alhambra. Puerta del Vino and

the Gypsy King 214

Zaragoza: Cathedral Wall 214

: The House of Fair Lucia 225

Panorama of Granada .... between 226 and 227

Montserrat : The Monastery 228

: The Altar of the Virgin 231

xvii

ILLUSTRATIONS

FACING PAGE

Barcelona : Paseo de Colon, Monument of Co-
lumbus, and Montjuich Fortress 238

: Patio de la Audiencia 241

Tarragona : Plaza del Pallol 244

: Torreon de Pilatos 244

: Cyclopean Gate 249

: Cyclopean Wall 249

: Cathedral Cloisters 252

: Four-light Ajimez Window 252

: Latin Inscription 254

: Church of San Pablo 254

: Roman Aqueduct 257

Valencia: Valenciana in Gala Costume 260

: Valencians in Gala Costume on Horse-
back 263

The Salon de Cortes of the Audiencia . 265

A Tartana 268

Interior of the Lonja de la Seda .... 270

Renaissance Tower 273

Sagunto: Fortress. Puerta de Almenara . . 273
: Roman Theater. Left Side of Amphi-
theater from Left Stage End 276

: . Amphitheater as Seen from Right

End 276

: . Right End 279

: . Caves of the Left End 279

Valencia : Cathedral. Puerta de los Apostoles 281

: Barracas of the Albuf era 284

Sagunto : General View from the Fortress . . . 286

xvm

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THE COUNTRY AND THE PEOPLE

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

THE COUNTRY AND THE PEOPLE

THE United States has always been able
to boast that some of its prominent
men were actively interested in Spain.
This has effectively prevented the public in
general from losing interest in the Iberian
Peninsula. We can point in our early days to
Washington Irving who, while United States
Minister at Madrid, took occasion to steep
himself in the romantic legends of early Spain
and gave us his beautiful Tales of the Alham-
bra. These legends, curiously enough, had
never before gotten into print in any lan-
guage. The Spaniards themselves appre-
ciate Irving's interest and were the first to
recognize the service he had done them in
thus calling attention thereto.

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

Later William Hickling Prescott, with his
Life of Philip II, George Ticknor, with a
History oj Spanish Literature, Longfellow,
with the Spanish Student, and Coplas of Jorge
Manrique, Bryant, with numerous transla-
tions from the Spanish, and John Hay with
Castilian Days, have constantly fanned the
flame of our affection. Still more recently
historians have been giving us new cause for
interest in, and gratitude toward, our late
enemies.

Enemies is hardly the word. We were
temporarily opponents; but not enemies, as
were the French and Germans during the
Franco-Prussian war. Nor have the Span-
iards held their resentment as long as did
the French. The following anecdotes il-
lustrate my point concerning the difference
between the temper of the French toward
the German and that of the Spaniard toward
the American. In the summer of 1895,
twenty-four years after the war, I was one
day walking along the Boulevard St. Ger-
main and carelessly singing in a low tone
to myself Die Wacht am Rhein. Suddenly

ALFONSO XIII, KING OF SPAIN.
Franzen P/totograph.

THE COUNTRY AND THE PEOPLE

a heavy hand was laid on my shoulder and
a rough voice said in my ear: On ne chanie
pas ca a Paris, monsieur. During the first
two weeks of my visit to Spain in the sum-
mer of 1899, just a year from the time the
war ceased, and only about six months after
the signing of the Treaty of Peace, I was
haunted by the music of Sousa's popular piece
The Stars and Stripes Forever, and I fre-
quently caught myself singing the air in the
streets. Of course it worried me and, with
my Parisian experience in mind, I expected
to get into trouble. At the end of the two
weeks I was amazed, and relieved, to see
that one of the numbers of the Casino-
Orchestra Programme for the day was none
other than The Stars and Stripes Forever;
and they played it well. Although I was
everywhere introduced as an American and
met people of all classes, I never received an
unkind look or a harsh word.

We have long known what we owed to
France for aid during our Revolution. We
have not known so much about our debt to
Spain and yet that debt was considerable.

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

Among other things, Spain lent us over a
million dollars. She granted our privateers-
men refuge in all her harbors, both penin-
sular and colonial, for the sale of prizes.
She permitted the purchase of supplies by
the exchange of commodities. At New Or-
leans, Pensacola, and Havana, she showed
us unusual privileges, permitting us to main-
tain at New Orleans a Special Commis-
sioner, Mr. Pollock, who purchased ammu-
nition and provisions which were sent up
the Mississippi and the Ohio, and so east-
ward to our troops. During the whole of
the war Spain maintained an agent at
Philadelphia for the purpose of watching
events. Last, but not least, the Count of
Aranda, Spanish Ambassador at Paris, as
early as March, 1775, suggested to the
French government joint intervention by
France and Spain in the approaching trouble
between England and the Colonies.

Nor are these the only ways in which
Spain has manifested her interest in us.
Spanish scholars have always shown a
marked degree of kindness toward Amer-

THE COUNTRY AND THE PEOPLE

ican students and men of letters: e. g., Na-
varrete — Washington Irving ; Gayangos —
Prescott and Ticknor; Valera — Lowell and
Whittier; and Menendez y Pelayo, Paz y Me-
lia, Menendez Pidal, the Conde de Las Na-
vas, Cotarelo, Altamira, Cossio, and Bonilla y
San Martin are proving themselves worthy
heirs to that tradition, as many of our
younger generation of scholars can tes-
tify. Furthermore, the great learned bod-
ies, especially the Real Accidentia Esyanola
de la Lengua, the Real Academia de la His-
toria, and the Real Academia Gallega have
been constantly on the alert to honor, with
corresponding membership, the authors of
American scholarly productions that lie
within their fields. And we should be un-
grateful indeed, if we passed over in silence
the gracious act of the King, who, amid all
the worries that beset his path as he strives
for the amelioration of his country, finds
time to inform himself concerning American
scholars and bestows signal honors upon
those who after long years given over to
painstaking, affectionate study devote their

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

lives to spreading abroad among their coun-
trymen a deeper knowledge and a better
understanding of Spain and her people.

In spite of all this, when mention is made
of Spain, it has been the habit for many
years past, both in this country and in
Europe, to shrug the shoulders and, with
Nicolas Masson de Morvilliers, ask: Mais
que doit-on a VEspagne? Et depuis deux
siecles, depuis quatre, depuis six, qua-t-elle
fait pour VEurope? The implication is
only too plain. It is, however, entirely er-
roneous. It has been the custom to con-
sider Spain as a country of barbarians and
this has led to the remark, often heard,
that "Africa really begins at the Pyrenees."
In this statement there is just enough truth
to make the half lie more dangerous than an
out-and-out misstatement would have been.
Persons with that idea in mind show their
own ignorance of the history of Spain from
its earliest times to the present day, or else
they forget some very obvious facts.

Consider for a moment what Silver Latin
would amount to without the Rhetorician

VICTORIA, QUEEN OF SPAIN.
Douney Photograph.

THE COUNTRY AND THE PEOPLE

Seneca the Elder (born at Cordoba, B. C.
60), without his son the Philosopher and
Dramaturge, Seneca the Younger (born at
Cordoba B. C. 3), without the Poet Lucan,
grandson and nephew respectively of the
two Senecas (born at Cordoba A. D. 39),
without the Epigrams of Martial (born
near Calatayud A. D. 43), and without the
Institutes of Oratory and the Maxims of
Quintillian (born at Calahorra A. D. 35).
There were also Pomponius Mela (who
was born at Tingentera, Spain, and flourished
under Caligula and Claudius) and Colu-
mella (a contemporary of Seneca, and born
at Cadiz). And still later we find Pruden-
tius, the earliest of the Christian poets
(said to have been born at Tarragona A. D.
348); Isidor of Seville (who died 636) who,
next to Boetius and Cassiodorus exercised
the most important influence upon the gen-
eral culture and literature of the Middle
Ages, and whose greatest work was his
Etymologies or Origines; and Teodolfo, Span-
ish Bishop of Orleans, famous in the Court
of Charlemagne as a poet and man of let-

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

ters, and whose triumphant hymn Gloria,
Laus et Honor has become an indissoluble
part of the service of Palm Sunday through-
out Christendom.

After the dominion of Rome had disap-
peared, Spain still kept alive the operation
of the Roman system of jurisprudence, and
thus passed on for the benefit of other na-
tions in later ages the legal principles upon
which the civilized codes of to-day are based.

The debt of the world to Spain under
Jewish and Moslem influence does not be-
long to the field of Belles-Lettres. It belongs
rather to the field of the exact sciences, the
study and interpretation of Letters and the
production of the comforts and luxuries of
life. It was under their domination that
the learning of the Greeks and the science
of the eastern peoples were kept alive when
they had been lost sight of everywhere else
in Europe, and this was done especially at
the great centers Zaragoza and Cordoba. It
was from the Moors, too, that the Spaniards
learned how to irrigate their land and develop
their agriculture. So thoroughly was that

THE COUNTRY AND THE PEOPLE

work done, especially in the neighborhood
of Valencia, that the irrigating canals built
by the Moors are in operation to-day.

The circumstances of the Reconquest gave
Spain an ideal which for centuries served as
its inspiration. Little by little the Moors
were driven back, various Christian king-
doms emerged and were gradually absorbed
by their neighbors until, with the marriage
of Ferdinand and Isabella, and the conse-
quent unions of the kingdoms of Leon, Old
Castile, New Castile and Aragon, and the
conquest of the Kingdom of Granada, with
the final expulsion of the Moors, the history
of Modern Spain may be said to have be-
gun. At this same time the discovery of the
New World gave Spain an undreamed of
source of wealth for pushing her ambitious
schemes. Charles I of Spain aspired to the
position of Emperor and became such, as
Charles V. Not many years before this
event Spain increased its territory by the
conquest of Naples and Sicily, and in the
early years of Charles' reign Spain's power
in the new world was extended by the con-

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

quest of Mexico. From 1531 to 1541 the con-
quest of Peru and Chile was accomplished;
and Tunis had been captured in the mean-
while. In 1556 Charles V abdicated, and
retired to Yuste; and Philip II began his
reign. Under him the Spanish Monarchy
attained its greatest extent, including the
occupation of Portugal. The Spanish sol-
diery on land and sea was the finest in Europe,
and at the battle of Lepanto in 1571 reached
its highest point of glory. This leading po-
sition was not long maintained, for its navy
was wiped out in 1588 by the destruction
of the Armada. The reputation of the land
forces continued until their defeat in 1643
at the battle of Rocroy. Under Philip III
(1598-1621) Spain continued its long de-
cline. The final expulsion of the Moriscos
in 1609 was an overwhelming blow to the
industries and agriculture of the country.
During the reign of Philip IV (1621-1665)
Portugal was lost; there was a terrible in-
surrection in Cataluna; and the Netherlands
forced the recognition of their independence.
With Charles II (1665-1700) we reach the

THE COUNTRY AND THE PEOPLE

close of the Hapsburg dynasty, which began
with the marriage of the Archduke of Aus-
tria, Philip the Beautiful, and Joanna, the
daughter of Ferdinand and Isabella. The
Hapsburgs were followed by the Bourbons,
the first of whom was Philip V during whose
reign (1701-1746) Gibraltar was taken by
the English. In 1767, under Charles III,
even the most Catholic country of Europe
felt itself under the necessity of expelling
the Jesuits. In the early nineteenth century
attention was again called to Spain through
the interest exhibited by France and England.
In 1808 the French entered the country, and
Charles IV abdicated; whereupon Ferdi-
nand VII, his son, renounced his rights in
favor of Napoleon, who declared Joseph
Bonaparte to be King of Spain. The English
then decided to take a hand in affairs, and
began the Peninsular War, which lasted
from 1808 to 1814. In 1812 the Inquisition
was suppressed, only to be reestablished by
Ferdinand VII on his restoration in 1814.1

1 It was not finally abolished until 1834. Since then there
have been various abortive attempts at restoration; and

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

Upon the death of Ferdinand VII in 1833,
Isabella II became Queen of Spain, and the
next year saw the beginning of the first
Carlist War. With the reign of Isabella II
there came no change of dynasty, for in 1848
she married her cousin, Francis of Assis,
who was likewise a Bourbon. If by the
revolution of 1868 Isabella II had not been
expelled from Spain her reign would have
been seven years longer than that of Queen
Victoria over England. From time to time
throughout the nineteenth century disturb-
ances occurred in the Spanish Empire and
one after another of her colonies renounced
their allegiance to the mother country. The
war of 1898 took away from Spain the last
of her colonial possessions and, for the first
time in centuries, she was free to attend to
problems that concerned her own personal
welfare. It may confidently be asserted that
Spain's outlook for the future is brighter

Don Jaime, the present Carlist pretender, is said recently
to have proclaimed that if he obtains the throne of Spain
he will restore the Inquisition; a proclamation generally con-
sidered as a bid for popularity in the North.

Painting by J. Sorolla y Bastida

AFTER THE BATH.
Hispanic Society Photograph, Copyrighted.

THE COUNTRY AND THE PEOPLE

than it has been at any time in the last four
hundred years.

In the new preface to the second edition
of his Modern Spain, Major Martin A. S.
Hume says:

"In the seven years that have passed since
this book was written the happiest hopes
expressed in its closing lines have so far been
fulfilled. The child Alfonso XIII. has grown
to be a man: a young man full of generous
impulses, and deeply imbued by his wise
mother in the duties and responsibilities of
a constitutional monarch. . . . Those who
on that memorable day in May, 1901 [it was
1902], saw the King, so bright and eager, so
manly yet so pathetically young, face his
parliament and his people for the first time
as their ruler, and with head erect and ring-
ing voice swear to guard inviolate the Con-
stitution by which he reigned, could not fail
to be impressed with the earnest sincerity,
the evident determination, of the young man
to do right and fear nothing. Mistakes Al-
fonso XIII. may make, for he is human ; but
it may be certainly predicted of him, that,

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

like his father before him, he will do no evil
knowingly to his people; and that he will,
so far as in him lies, keep his pact with the
subjects whose love and sympathy he has
already gained.

"The old politicians of the revolution are
dropping off one by one. Silvela, Sagasta,
Romero-Robledo, and Pi y Margall have
died since this book was written, and the
newer statesmen who alternately govern
Spain have found, as Canovas in his own
words said of Alfonso XII., when he was
of the same age as his son is now, that in
Alfonso XIII. they 'have a master.' Like
his father, too, the young King has deter-
mined to marry for love, and to marry an
English Princess, bred in the free atmosphere
of British life. When Alfonso XII. was
urged by his ministers to adopt a measure
limiting religious freedom in Spain, he re-
plied— 'There are two things upon which
I will never give way, though it cost me my
crown. I will never suppress religious lib-
erty, and I will never marry against my
will;' and the influences whose activity in

&
'-=.,

Painting by J. Sorolla y Bastida.

OLD CASTILIAN PEASANT.
ffixpanic Society Photograph, copyrighted.

THE COUNTRY AND THE PEOPLE

an opposite direction drew this declaration
from Alfonso XII., have found in his son
the same firm resolve to resist the retrogres-
sive forces of bigotry, and to suffer no po-
litical coercion in the matter of his marriage.
The Catholic faith is, and must remain, the
religion of Spain ; but the day of religious per-
secution and tyrannical priestcraft is past
for ever, and Catholic Spain is as free as Prot-
estant England. . . .

"For Spain most of the auguries are hope-
ful. The vexed question of 'regionalism'
in Biscay and Cataluna still stirs the nation
to its heart, but the wisest of those who have
hitherto clamoured for complete provincial
autonomy are beginning to recognise that
the best way of attaining the end they have
in view is not to stand apart from the
national life and cry for an impracticable
separation, but for the wealthy, active prov-
inces of the north to infuse into all depart-
ments of the national life some of their own
energy and strength: for Biscay and Cata-
lufia to conquer and influence the rest of
Spain as Scotland has influenced the rest of

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

Britain, and whilst retaining in vigour pro-
vincial institutions, work for, and with, the
nation as a whole. Whatever solution may
be found for this and other burning ques-
tions, one thing may be foretold with con-
fidence. The days of despotism have fled
for ever from Spain. The law and not the
crown shall rule; and the bent of the young
king, so far as it is known, encourages the
hope that the popular liberties will have in
time a strenuous champion and a faithful
guardian."

Recent reports from Spain give evidence
that Hume's reiterated hope was thoroughly
justified. Spanish bonds have almost doubled
and the foreign exchange has wonderfully
improved: for example, in 1900-1902 the
rate of exchange for the pound sterling fluc-
tuated from 32.50 pesetas to 36.50, with
the average about 35. Now it is below 27,
whereas the par value is above 25.

Agriculture, stock raising, and mining have
all three taken decided booms, the number
of workmen in the mines of Bizcaya alone
having increased in six years from 7,000, to

THE COUNTRY AND THE PEOPLE

13,000. Emigration has decreased to be-
tween 2,000 and 3,000 per year. Formerly
it was a heavy drain. Ten years ago the
birth rate was 34.38 per thousand inhabit-
ants and now it is 33.28; but against this
slight diminution in birth rate we have a
larger diminution in death rate for the same
period: 28.68 and 25.33 respectively, a net
gain of 2.45 per thousand. The advance-
ment in agriculture is such that to-day Spain
is practically independent of the outside
world for its supply of food stuffs, whereas
so recently as four years ago its impor-
tations in these materials amounted to
$70,000,000. The nation and government
have also awakened to the need of reforest-
ing the land and steps are being taken in
that direction.1

Spain has also had her labor movements,
which have been accompanied as in other

1 Penfield, Frederic Courtland: " Spain's Commercial
Awakening," in The North American Review, 190 (1909),
pp. 753-764; and Hill, Frank D. (American Consul General
at Barcelona): "Spain's Economic Revival," in the Amer-
ican Review of Reviews, 41 (1910), pp. 3'-25-334.

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

countries, by serious disturbances, due to
unholy opportunist alliances with various
other movements such as anarchy, republic-
anism, anticlericalism (or even clericalism),
separatism (usually speciously called re-
gionalism or autonomy) and so on to the end
of the list. In a recent article a French
writer, after giving a brief history, for the last
forty years, of the various labor movements
in Spain and their interrelationship, thus
closes what he has to say : 1

"However serious they be, because they
have their origin in the agrarian question
(the most serious question there is and one
that requires likewise the attention of our
neighbors), the disturbances in the country
districts are condemned to be nothing but
spasmodic efforts and of short duration.
The lack of organization on the part of the
agricultural proletariat, in general, will pre-
vent its becoming for a long time to come a
serious cause of anxiety so far as public order

1 Marvaud, Angel: " Le Mouvement Ouvrier en Es-
pagne," in the Revue Politique et Parlementaire, 63 (1910),
pp. 86-100.

Painting by I. Zuloaga.

GYPSY BULL-FIGHTER'S FAMILY (PORTRAITS).
Hispanic Society Photograph, Copyrighted.

THE COUNTRY AND THE PEOPLE

is concerned. The revolutionary organiza-
tion of the city laborers — and I refer es-
pecially to those of Barcelona — even if it
have only just begun its work, seems to us
much more menacing and worthy of atten-
tion."

The manner in which the Barcelonese
riots of July, 1909, were suppressed and the
speed with which it was accomplished, while
the nation was distracted by the war in
Africa, manifests that the government is still
master of the situation. This was accom-
plished by a conservative ministry, that of
Maura. Under the two succeeding liberal
ministries, of Moret and Canalejas, prompt
measures have been taken for granting a gen-
eral amnesty to all prisoners captured in the
course of the disturbances; excepting only
those caught in armed rebellion against the
national troops. Under the Moret ministry
Barcelonese temper was considerably calmed,
and the Riff War was satisfactorily termi-
nated.

The relations of Church and State seem
also in a fair way of being placed upon a

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

more modern and progressive basis. The
revision of the Concordat was one of the
plans of the earlier liberal ministry and it is
also one of the two principal objects of the
Canalejas ministry. It is understood that
the King will support heartily the reform of
the Concordat, whether with or without the
cooperation of the Vatican, on the ground
that he is determined to carry out the will of
his people and fulfill his oath to rule as a
constitutional monarch. Premier Canalejas
is also planning to revise the system of taxa-
tion, his idea being, among other things, to
tax the unearned increment of land and to
abolish the octroi duties. We Americans,
with our absolute free trade between all parts
of the country, whether interstate or intra-
state, can with difficulty realize how much
annoyance is caused by this tax. Inhabitants
of San Sebastian, for example, own a farm in
the Pyrenees. The chickens, pigs, cattle,
vegetables and fruits grown on this farm they
cannot eat in their home in San Sebastian
without paying the octroi tax when the goods
enter the city.

Fainting by I Zuloaga.

MADEMOISELLE LUCIENNE BREVAL AS CARMEN.
Hispanic Society Photograph, Copyrighted.

THE COUNTRY AND THE PEOPLE

In a previous paragraph we spoke of the
Spanish Universities and the relation of their
scholars with our own. The Spanish educa-
tional system, however, has not been as a
whole what it should be, for it has lacked in
the number and quality of its schools of
primary and grammar grades, and even, to
a certain extent of the secondary grades, I
mean those corresponding strictly to our high
schools. In 1901 the Minister of Public In-
struction and Fine Arts, the Count of Ro-
manones, in his annual address at the formal
opening of the University of Madrid stated
that sixty-six per cent of the people of Spain
could neither read nor write. Educational
matters are certainly on a way to improve-
ment, however, for the King and his ministers
are alive to the needs of the country in this
respect. During the Moret ministry, in De-
cember, 1909, a royal decree was issued au-
thorizing a budget of 10,000,000 pesetas to
be spread over a period of ten years and to
be used for elementary school buildings for
Madrid alone, thus setting the example for
the other municipalities. These figures were

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

determined upon after a careful examination
into the number of children of school age for
whom there was then no accommodation.

In spite of the opposition of the clerical
party, and in spite of the government's re-
cent bitter experiences with certain socialistic
schools, the King in February, 1910, issued,
at the request of the same minister, Antonio
Barroso y Castillo, another decree removing
the inspection of private schools from the
hands of the clerics and restoring it to officers
appointed by the government. With this de-
cree were issued special instructions to those
officers calling their attention to the fact that
if certain schools, by reason of local crises,
had been closed temporarily they should be
allowed to open their doors again the moment
they had fulfilled the legal requirements.

Under the Canalejas ministry, the Minis-
ter of Public Instruction and Fine Arts is
once more the Count of Romanones, who in
1901 carried out several important reforms
such as the state payment of teachers and the
development of secondary schools. He plans
now to continue the improvement of public

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THE COUNTRY AND THE PEOPLE

instruction so as the better to oppose the
advances of private and clerical instruction.
Specifically he will call for larger appropria-
tions for school buildings and for salaries;
and he is especially interested in technical
education.

In a previous paragraph we have spoken
of Spanish literature, so far as it concerned
Silver Latin, but that was not its only period
of importance. As early as 1427 Spain pos-
sessed complete translations of Virgil and
Dante both due to the pen of Don Enrique
de Villena. In 1490 Palencia produced the
earliest Latin dictionary with definitions in
Spanish. It was driven from the field in
1492 by another due to Don Antonio de
Nebrija, the great humanist. In 1610 Cova-
rrubias wrote one of the first dictionaries in
any modern language. In 1739 the Spanish
Royal Academy completed in six volumes its
Dictionary of the Spanish Language, and
there was no dictionary in any other modern
language that deserved to be compared to it.1

1 The Didionnaire de I'usage, of the French Academy, ap-
peared in 1694 in one volume. The Vocabolario degli

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

These matters of translation and lexicography
may justly be said not to belong to literature,
properly so called; but even in creative work
Spain can well hold her own. In 1499 ap-
peared the Celestina, a dialogued novel of
unknown authorship, which spread like wild-
fire all over Europe, and engendered a whole
army of followers, at home and abroad. In
1559 appeared another anonymous work
which was destined in its turn to be the be-
ginning of a school : the well-known Lazarillo
de Tormes, the first and greatest of the
modern picaresque novels, one of whose
latest descendants was Miss Michelson's In
the Bishop's Carriage. Both the Celestina
and the Lazarillo were early translated into
English, and so well were the translations
made that they have stood the test of time
and become themselves classics. In 1605
appeared the greatest single book ever pro-

Accademici della Crusca, first published in one volume at
Venice in 1G12, was increased to seven volumes in the
fourth edition, 1 7*29-1 738; but it gives examples chosen
from authors belonging exclusively to the fourteenth cen-
tury (1300-1400).

THE COUNTRY AND THE PEOPLE

duced by any literature, a book whose hero
has become a household companion in every
civilized country; and when that has been
said it is hardly necessary to quote his name:
Don Quijote de la Mancha. Simultaneously
with this great movement in the novel, as
represented by Cervantes, Aleman, Guevara,
Quevedo, and others, Spain astounded Eu-
rope with its dramatic productions, and the
works of Guillen de Castro, Lope de Vega,
Tirso de Molina, Alarcon, Calderon, and
Moreto, to say nothing of a host of others,
were the sources drawn upon by most of the
dramatists of Europe. Especially great is the
debt of the French dramatists and we may
recall, as typical of that debt, such authors
as Rotrou, Corneille, and Moliere, and the
fact that the first great tragedy in French
literature, Le Cid, and the first great comedy,
Le Menteur, are confessedly drawn from
Castro's Las Mocedades del Cid and Alarcon's
La Verdad Sospechosa, respectively. English
readers who cannot enjoy Calderon in the
original may still get some idea of his charm
by consulting the excellent translations of

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

several of his best dramas, as they appear in
the works of Edward FitzGerald.

A form of Spanish literature in which
English and Americans should be particu-
larly interested is one in which Spain is
richer than either England or Scotland. I
mean the ballads, called in Spanish Romances.
Some of the most beautiful of these have
inspired no less a poet than Lockhart.

In the eighteenth century Spain's literary
star, like her political star, suffered an eclipse,
which lasted until well into the nineteenth
century. Although with the works of Pereda
Spain had ceased to follow French models,
the world at large did not know it, nor for
that matter did Spain; and it was not until
1874, with the appearance of Pepita Jimenez,
due to the pen of the most Attic of all the
Spanish prose writers of all ages, Juan Va-
lera, that Spain again came into her own,
and people realized that the novel in Spain
in the nineteenth century was likely to take
rank with its progenitor of the seventeenth
century. Such has since proven to be the
case. The novel as a literary genre through-

LA CIGARRERA (THE CIGARETTE-GIRL), SEVILLA.
Laurent Photograph.

THE COUNTRY AND THE PEOPLE

out the rest of Europe is largely decadent
and a bad imitation of French novels. Only
in Spain is it virile and autochthonous. In
addition to Pereda and Valera (the schol-
arly diplomat whose residence in Washing-
ton as representative of his country is still
remembered with pleasure), mention should
be made of Perez Galdos, Alarcon, Palacio
Valdes, Blasco Ibailez, Nogales, Clarin, and
Emilia Pardo Bazan.

The other form of literature in which
Spain attained supremacy in the seven-
teenth century has also had its renaissance
in the nineteenth century, and the drama, be-
ginning with Moratm's El Si de las Ninas,
which appeared in 1806, and continuing
with the works of Zorrilla, Tamayo y Baus,
Larra, Gil y Zarate, Nunez de Arce, Guimera,
the Quintero brothers, Carrion, Aza, Galdos
and Echegaray, ranks with the best dramatic
productions of any country. With at least
two of these authors Americans are ac-
quainted, for only a few years ago, under
the management of Mrs. Fiske, the Amer-
ican public was given the privilege of seeing

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

Matia of the Lowlands, a powerful drama by
Guimera; and in the winter of 1908-1909
Mr. and Mrs. Faversham performed the
masterpiece of Echegaray, El Gran Galeoto
under the title of The World and his Wife.
Echegaray's work always exhibits some eth-
ical ideal, although he never descends to
mere preaching. Because of the great pre-
dominance of the ideal in his work, which
is nowhere better exemplified than in El Gran
Galeoto, Echegaray in 1904 received half of
the Nobel prize in Literature, the other half
going to Mistral, the poet of Provence.

Although not equal to the drama or the
novel, Spanish lyric poetry in the nineteenth
century is far from negligible, and Juan
Valera, in a five-volume anthology devoted
to the subject, quotes poems from no less
than one hundred and fifty-two poets whose
works he thinks well of, and about whom,
as factors in the development thereof, he
wishes to speak.

No country in Europe offers so attractive
a field for students of art, since nowhere else
can so many styles be seen in the setting for

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Painting by Madrazo.

ISABEL II, QUEEN OF SPAIN.

THE COUNTRY AND THE PEOPLE

which they were made. Here, for example,
the whole history of Moorish and Arabian
art from its earliest stages to its highest de-
velopment may be traced with comparative
ease.

Roman architecture may be studied at
Italica, Tarragona, Segovia, and Sagunto.
Remains of Visigothic architecture are scarce,
but some of them may be seen at Cordoba,
Toledo, and Barcelona. The Romanesque
style may be found at Segovia and Avila.
For Gothic one should go to Salamanca,
Tarragona, Segovia, Burgos, Toledo, and
Sevilla. In Cataluna they developed the
broadest and flattest arches to be found in the
Gothic style.

Arabian architecture may be studied any-
where throughout the southern half of the
peninsula, and chiefly at Toledo, Sevilla, and
Granada.

Spanish sculpture is less well known than
most other forms of Spanish art, although
it deserves a better fate. In visiting the
various architectural monuments of the coun-
try, one should spend as much time in study-
si

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

ing the sculptures as one gives to the paint-
ings. In broad terms there may be said to
be three styles of sculpture: the Plateresque,
the Grotesque, also called the Monstrous,
and the Baroque, of which latter style one
can speak with scant equanimity since, while
it was the rage, many priceless treasures of
previous ages were destroyed to make room
for it.

Spanish painting is for various reasons
better known than Spain's other forms of
art. Despite the vast number of master-
pieces to be found scattered throughout
Europe, no Spanish artist of the classical
period can be studied anywhere so well as
in Spain. It may be said, too, in passing,
that for a knowledge of many of the Flemish
and Venetian painters a visit to Spain is im-
perative. Although the most brilliant period
of Spanish art belongs to the century of
Spain's greatest glory, in which we meet
Ribera, Zurbaran, Murillo, and Velazquez,
many artists of a later period well repay at-
tention, and no one will regret the time de-
voted to Goya (the Spanish Hogarth), Ma-

THE COUNTRY AND THE PEOPLE

drazo (the portrait painter), Pradilla, and
Fortuny; for Spanish painting, like the
Spanish drama and the Spanish novel, has
had its nineteenth-century renaissance. To-
day Spanish painters are among the fore-
most artists of the world, and for proof of
that statement we have only to turn to the
works of Zuloaga and Sorolla which were
exhibited in 1909 at the Hispanic Society of
America, in New York, and the younger men
who had canvases in that year's Salon, at
Paris.

Perhaps no Spanish art is so little known
and so little understood abroad as Spanish
music, and yet I venture to say it is one of
the most characteristic, if not indeed the
most characteristic, of the arts that flourish
in the peninsula. Unfortunately, it does
not seem to stand transplantation, or expor-
tation, and unless we can go to the country
we shall probably be obliged to get our
knowledge of it from Bizet's Carmen. While
Spanish music is not the easiest music in the
world to understand, we may safely claim that
anyone who will take the pains to study it

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

carefully and sympathetically will be amply
repaid, for after awhile it begins to take hold
of you, and when once it has gotten into your
blood the charm is undeniable, and you won-
der that there ever was a time when it did not
enthrall you.

This is the country and this the people
we are going to visit in the following chap-
ters. If I shall succeed in bringing some of
my readers to a better and more affectionate
knowledge of them, I shall have accom-
plished my object.

THE BASQUE PROVINCES

AS every one who travels to Europe goes
to Paris, we shall begin our journey
to Spain, the romantic country of the
Dons, from the gayest capital of the world.
The express leaves at ten-thirty, and twelve
hours later we catch our first glimpse of the
towering peaks of the Pyrenees. At noon we
cross the border, the celebrated little river
Bidassoa, on opposite sides of which lie the
frontier towns of Hendaya and Irun. At
the latter point we meet the Spanish customs
officials and immediately realize that we have
reached the land of Don Quijote.

As a rule French customs officials are very
courteous, but they are none the less business-
like. In Spain, however, courtesy is carried
to the extreme and business seems to be the
last thing thought of. After a few formal
questions, our luggage is passed. Beside us

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

is a Frenchman in whose baggage a customs
official, in spite of his unbusinesslike exami-
nation, discovers a bottle. The Frenchman,
upon being asked what it contains, declares
that he does not know, as it was presented
to him by a friend as the train left Paris.
Of course it will be easy to learn by pulling
the cork. This having been done, the cus-
toms officer, as being the court official in the
case, is asked by the traveler to test the con-
tents. He does so, and declares it to be very
good brandy. The Frenchman professes to
be delighted, invites the official to take an-
other drink, and remarks that, as the pack-
age is no longer intact, there is of course no
duty to pay. With a bow both gentlemen
decide to close the incident.

After eating in leisurely fashion a very good
luncheon, we again take train, this time on
a wide-gauge Spanish railroad, and an hour
later reach San Sebastian, the charming cap-
ital of the Basque province of Guipuzcoa.

Spanish culinary arrangements being very
different from those of the more familiar
countries of Europe, it would perhaps be

Painting by Madrazo.

FRANCISCO DE AS IS, KING-CONSORT OF SPAIN.

THE BASQUE PROVINCES

well briefly to describe what they are. For
breakfast, taken at any hour of the morn-
ing, and sometimes served in bed, one gets
cafe au lait or more characteristically a
small cup of chocolate, flavored with cinna-
mon, and so thick that it cannot be drunk.
With it small rolls are served which are used
as spoons for dipping up the chocolate. For
dinner, and a Spaniard practically eats two
dinners, one at noon and the other at night,
the following menu, actually served to me
as my first meal in San Sebastian, is typical
of the table d'hote in the average hotel:
Soup; Spanish beans and corned beef; string
beans and salt pork; fish; pork chops and
potatoes; artichokes; chicken; apricot pud-
ding, strawberries, assorted fruits, coffee and
a quart bottle of wine. If perchance your
bottle becomes empty before you have fin-
ished your meal, the waiter quite naturally
brings you a second. In a private family the
dinner usually consists, of soup, two of the
above-mentioned meat courses, with their
accompanying vegetables, dessert, fruits, cof-
fee, and wine. Garlic is used in many dishes,

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

but usually in discreet quantities. Most
meats and vegetables, when not simply
boiled, are cooked in oil. Fried eggs and
omelets are always so treated, and anyone
who has not yet eaten eggs fried in oil does
not know how delicious fried eggs really can
be, provided the oil is of good quality. In
the meal which is not intended to be dinner,
soup is replaced by eggs in some style. In
the afternoon — any time after four o'clock —
one is supposed to take a walk and spend
some time at a pleasantly located cafe. Here
coffee or tea, with bread and butter or lady
fingers, is the usual diet.

Spain has two celebrated national dishes,
the cocido, or olla podrida, and the paella
Valenciana. The first of these has as its
basis the well-known chick pea (garbanzo),
to which are added boiled beef, salt pork, and
any number of vegetables. The second one
has as its basis rice, which is first boiled for
a certain time, and then thrown into a bath
of hot oil. When finished each grain of
rice, while perfectly cooked, still retains its
shape. The other ingredients are chicken

THE BASQUE PROVINCES

partially boiled, and afterwards fried in oil,
hot peppers, a few peas, some salt pork,
pieces of sausage, small clams or, if pre-
ferred, eels, and the whole flavored with
saffron. Here again no description can
really do justice to the dish, and it can be
confidently asserted that there is no more
delicious way of serving rice.

Hotels in San Sebastian are good and,
except at the height of the season, inex-
pensive.

San Sebastian is clean, pretty, and attrac-
tive, and predisposes one in favor of the rest
of the country. The old city is packed in
close at the foot of Monte Urgull, which was
originally a rocky island. The ground be-
tween it and the mainland has since been
filled in, and the new city, laid out with
broad streets and avenues, is built thereon
and follows the line of the semicircular bay.
The beach, because of its shape, has been
called The Shell {La Concha). The bay is
almost landlocked, the two extremities being
formed by Monte Urgull and Monte Igueldo,
and the mouth being partially closed by the

RAMBLES IK SPAIN

island of Santa Clara. The whole forms one
of the most delightful bathing spots and sum-
mer resorts in all Europe. To the west lie
the Cantabrian Mountains, to the east and
south the towering Pyrenees, and to the
north the Bay of Biscay, so that the scenery
is of the most varied.

During the summer season the city takes
good care of its many thousand visitors from
all over Europe. Especially to be recom-
mended is the musical treat that it offers.
Every night in the broad Boulevard, which
replaces the old city wall and marks the line
of separation between the old city and the
new, the municipal band gives excellent
music. At the Casino, which is one of the
most celebrated on the Continent, there is
an excellent orchestra which plays every
afternoon and every evening. When the
weather is fine they play on the terrace, and
others than members, or those who have
paid for the daily admission, get the benefit
thereof. In bad weather they are forced to
play indoors in the large festival room, which

also serves as a summer theater and ballroom.

BASTIAN.
own.

THE BASQUE PROVINCES

The programmes of both organizations are
classical and cosmopolitan, the orchestra be-
ing, if anything, a little more cosmopolitan
than the municipal band, which must nat-
urally furnish a good proportion of native
music.

The Boulevard consists of a very broad,
shady promenade flanked by two streets or
driveways. This has rendered possible a
very curious state of affairs. On that side
of the promenade lying nearest to the new
city the more well-to-do classes seem to con-
gregate. In the center of the promenade we
find those less well-to-do and on the side
nearest the old city the poorest class. All
this has come about quite naturally and has
resulted in nicknaming the three parts of
the Boulevard by calling them the "parlor,"
the "dining-room," and the "kitchen." It
is needless to say there is no hard-and-fast
line between these parts.

One evening when I was attending a con-
cert I saw a tiny girl of about five dancing
among the trees. A gavotte was being
played with a great deal of snap and verve,

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

and the little girl followed absolutely the
rhythm of the music, but without perform-
ing a gavotte. Instead she was making up a
kind of ballet. She did it so well that I
stopped to watch her. She was dancing with
perfect naturalness and in a way that showed
conclusively she had never had to learn the
art. Soon others noticed what was going on
and a circle was rapidly formed about the
elfin dancer, who was utterly unconscious
of all that was happening about her, and
continued to follow the music with the same
remarkable precision, making pirouettes,
ronds-de-jambe, gavotte-, polka-, and waltz-
steps, while gracefully waving her arms to
the rhythm of the music and the clack of
her castanets. In short, she was a consum-
mate little artist. When the music had ceased
there was prolonged and deafening applause,
and the musicians had to play the piece over
again. It was very interesting and pretty
for, in addition to the exquisite grace of her
dancing, she was a really beautiful child.
Since such experiences are of frequent occur-
rence it is not difficult to realize the truth of

THE BASQUE PROVINCES

the proverb which says that Spanish girls
are born dancing.

One afternoon, soon after reaching San
Sebastian, my attention was arrested by the
very remarkable face of one of the violin-
ists in the Casino orchestra. It was a face of
singular purity, and during the rest of the
afternoon I could not take my eyes off the
man. He seemed oblivious to everything
except the soulful tones he was drawing from
his violin. After the concert was over I
could not get the man out of my mind, and
upon inquiry learned that he was called
Joaquin, and that his story explained the
saintly expression of his face.

His father died when he, the eldest child,
was about fourteen years old. He undertook
to support the whole family with his violin.
He was in love with a young girl in the town,
but has never married her because he could
not support her in addition to the rest. He
has married off and dowered two of his
sisters. The third one is still at home with
the mother who is a helpless invalid, a state
of affairs which prevents his marrying now

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

and has prevented it ever since the marriage
of his two sisters otherwise relieved the finan-
cial situation. His mother now needs enter-
tainment and when the newspapers do not
contain interesting items, he sits with it in
his hands and makes up things that are in-
teresting for her. Then, when her friends
come in to see her, she asks them what they
think of such-and-such things which they
naturally have not seen in the papers and
which she very naively says are there, since
Joaquin read them to her.

The music by the municipal band and by
the Casino orchestra is not the only music
furnished for the inhabitants of the town.
In the Paseo de la Zurriola every Thursday
night there is a ball for the populace. This
Paseo is itself very beautiful, being washed
by the waters of the Urumea River and by
the ocean, and commanding splendid views
of the Bay of Biscay and the towering peaks
of the Pyrenees which at this point seem
dominated by the Pena de Aya known in
French as the Trois Couronnes, because of
three crags that jut up above the surround-

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THE BASQUE PROVINCES

ing mass. On the nights of the balls the
trees of the park are festooned with many-
colored lanterns, and the natives, who have
not yet consented to dress themselves en-
tirely in the costume that is becoming uni-
form all over Europe, make a very pretty
spectacle as they perform their native dances
to the sound of that music which, once it
gets hold of you, makes an impression never
to be forgotten.

The Paseo de la Zurriola and the Boule-
vard are not the only beautiful promenades
in San Sebastian. The center of the city is
occupied by the Plaza de Guipuzcoa, which
has been planted with luxuriant sub-tropical
trees and plants. It is enclosed by buildings
whose first story exhibits an arcade like the
famous Rue de Rivoli in Paris.

In front of the Casino is the Parque de
Alderdi-Eder, which extends from the Casino
around one end of the Bay until it reaches
the Paseo de la Concha, which continues en-
tirely around the Bay. These last two parks
are the favorite promenade for society dur-
ing the bathing hours and those of the after-

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

noon concert at the Casino. Here, too, the
view is superb. At the extreme end of the
Paseo de la Concha on a height stands the
modest and attractive Palacio de Miramar,
the summer residence of the King.

The history of San Sebastian has been
long and glorious. No one knows when it
was founded, but its present name comes
from a monastery which existed in the tenth
century. It has stood many sieges, and only
recently has its fortress been dismantled.
Although it is the capital of one of the Basque
provinces, and although the Basque prov-
inces as a whole espoused the cause of
Don Carlos in the first Carlist war, San Se-
bastian was the first city that proclaimed
Isabella II Queen of Spain, and the last to
give her shelter as she left the country in
1868. San Sebastian has been the birthplace
of many celebrated characters, of whom we
shall mention only two.

Admiral Antonio Oquendo, on board the
Real Capitana in 1639, won a naval battle
against the whole of the Dutch squadron.
The battle was of such a nature that the op-

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THE BASQUE PROVINCES

posing admiral cried out: "The Real Capi-
tana, with Don Antonio Oquendo, is in-
vincible!" A notable monument has been
erected to him in the Paseo de la Zurriola
and the figure of the admiral himself is so
placed that it faces, across the Bay, the house
in which he was born.

The other celebrated character that I wish
to mention was a woman, Dofia Catalina de
Erauso, the nun who was a soldier. She was
born in San Sebastian in 1592, and in 1603
or earlier entered the convent of San Se-
bastian el Antiguo, where one of her aunts
was Prioress. Her name does not appear
in the convent books after 1607. In her au-
tobiography (the dates of which are hope-
lessly tangled, although the statements of
fact bear the earmarks of general truth-
fulness), she claims to have been born in
1585, to have entered the convent when
four years old, and to have remained there
until she was sixteen. Having then had
some difficulty with another nun she ran
away from the monastery in 1600 [this date
is of course wrong] and hid in the chestnut

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

wood near by. Here she cut off her hair,
made her clothes over into men's clothes, put
them on and took the road to Valladolid.
There, after having served as page to a sec-
retary of the King, of course under a false
name, Francisco de Loyola, and having en-
tered the service of a celebrated personage
at Estalla, she returned to San Sebastian
where, in the very convent whence she had
escaped, she heard mass at the side of her
mother without being recognized. Three
years thereafter she embarked, so she claims,
in the harbor of Pasajes for Sevilla, and later
went to America in the squadron commanded
by Fajardo. As early as 1608 she is known
to have been in Chile where, under the name
of Alonso Diaz Ramirez de Guzman, she
enlisted in the Spanish army. Her mili-
tary life was full of unusual experiences and
she showed an exceptional courage and dar-
ing on many a hard-fought battlefield. She
was several times condemned to death but
somehow or other managed to escape. She
rose to the rank of Ensign and then went
to Rome to ask Pope Urban VIII to author-

THE BASQUE PROVINCES

ize her to continue to wear men's clothes,
which was done. The King of Spain con-
firmed her title as Ensign and authorized her
to wear military costume. In 1630 she re-
turned to Mexico, and died at Cuitlaxtla in
1650. Of course such a history as this could
not fail to attract attention, once she had al-
lowed her disguise to be penetrated, and it
naturally figures in the literature of the times.1
In the old town there are several buildings
of interest. In its center is the Plaza de la
Constitution surrounded by arcades like the
Plaza de Guipuzcoa, but devoid of trees.
The reason for this is obvious, since this
Plaza in bygone days served for the bull-
fights. All the arcades contain numbered
balconies which were formerly sold when-
ever a bullfight occurred. At one end of
this Plaza is the City Hall, a very dignified

1 An excellent translation of her autobiography has been
made by Professor James Fitzmaurice-Kelly, L.H.D., of
the University of Liverpool, under the title, The Nun En-
sign, London, 1908. It is handsomely illustrated, and ac-
companied by a critical introduction and notes, together with
the Spanish text of Montalban's play, La Monja Alftrez.

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

building which, among other things, con-
tains the grand salon in which the royal
family receive the natives of the province.
From its balcony the town officials used to
view bullfights. Since San Sebastian now
possesses a very fine bull ring the fights no
longer occur here. A reminiscence of for-
mer times, however, is maintained in cele-
bration of the king's birthday. Among other
things they have a Toro de fuego or "fire-
bull," the figure of a bull arranged with a
long connecting set of fireworks along its
back and carried by three men. The fire-
works were started and the bull charged
right and left, up and down among the
crowd in the Plaza de la Constitution as long
as the fireworks lasted. After that came the
dances, some of which were national, others
local, and all interesting. The royal family
not being present, the privilege was granted
us, as foreigners, to view the whole scene
from the balcony of the Palatio de la Con-
stitution.

Two churches in the old city require at-
tention. They are really superb in a way

PEASANTS OF THE PROVINCE OF BIZCAYA.
Laurent Photograph.

THE BASQUE PROVINCES

all their own, although I should prefer them
if they were a little less gorgeous. Their great
altars, of which there are at least six in each,
are masses of gold decorations. It seems
too loud, too "criard" as the French would
put it. Santa Maria, built in the middle of
the eighteenth century, is a fine baroque
building. Its groined arches are attractive
and of the Moorish type, although that is
not consistently carried out. A massive gal-
lery extends all across the front instead of
down the sides, and is supported by arches
of the same general character. San Vicente
is an odd Gothic church whose general de-
sign is beautiful and symmetrical. It was
built in 1507. The carvings of its over-
gorgeous altars are likewise extremely ar-
tistic, when taken as works of art by them-
selves, but they detract from the effect of the
whole. Perhaps the most curious part of
the exterior is the west porch and tower and
the huge buttresses. The interior is deco-
rated with some fine statues by Ambrosio de
Bengoechea, one of the best of the artists
who gave themselves to the new western

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

decorative art: that of using life-sized sculp-
tured figures instead of mere paintings, which
had been the ideal striven after by the east-
ern iconoclasts.

In the new city we need visit but one
church, that of the Good Shepherd (Buen
Pastor), built entirely of alms collected be-
tween the years 1889 and 1897. It is con-
structed in pure Gothic style, with great
square columns, and has none of the dis-
turbing elements that have been mentioned
as existing in the other churches. Directly
under the cross of the nave and transepts is
the altar, with one magnificently carved
piece reaching almost to the beginning of
the curve of the arch. It is much more rest-
ful than the other churches. Here, too, the
gallery extends all across the front.

The Palacio de la Diputacion, situated on
one side of the Plaza de Guijmzcoa, is the
building in which is carried on all the gov-
ernmental work of the Province of Gui-
puzcoa. At the head of the grand staircase is
a handsome stained-glass window. Although
executed at Munich, it was designed by

THE BASQUE PROVINCES

Echena, a Spanish artist, and pictures King
Alfonso VIII in the act of confirming the
charters (Fueros) of Guipuzcoa in 1202. The
rooms of the Provincial Diet are stately and
beautiful.

One of the most pleasing monuments of
the whole city is the Casino, of modern
Renaissance style. The principal facade
skirts the park Alder di-Eder, facing south-
east. The northwest end of its terrace is
bathed by the waters of the bay. Life offers
few delights to rival a moonlit evening spent
here in the company of a kindred spirit, in
mutual surrender, soul and body, to the
witchery of soft lights, the sensuous thrill of
music vibrant with passion and devotion,
and the gentle murmur of the waves as they
meet and blend at the foot of the terrace.

From San Sebastian delightful excursions
can be made in every direction. Two must
suffice as indications; Pasajes and the Pena
de Ay a.

Pasajes de San Juan is a little Basque
town built on the edge of the bay of the same
name. It has only one long, narrow street,

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

the houses often being built right across it,
with an archway through them. There are
no side streets at all and no horses and
wagons are allowed in the town. We made
our way out to the old fort at the entrance
of the passage and saw an ocean steamer
come in. The strait is so narrow that it
almost seemed as if we could jump from the
cliff to the deck of the steamer. There is in
the town a curious old Basque church, con-
taining a magnificent carved-wood altar, the
wood for which was brought from South
America by a man who is buried in the
church, and over whom the following tablet is
to be found:

Don Jose Joaquin de Ferrer y Cafranga.
Miembro de la Soeiedad filosofica de Filadelfia,
Socio correspondiente de la Real Academia de la
Historia, del Institute Naeional, de Francia, y de

otras sociedades cientificas y literarias.
Natural de Pasajes: Oct. 26, 1763-May 18, 1818.

Here, too, enclosed in a glass casket, and
dressed in its princely robes of state, lies the
beautiful figure of a fourteen-year-old girl,

THE BASQUE PROVINCES

known as Santa Faustina, who was the
daughter of a Turkish Prince. The date of
her death is not known exactly but is sup-
posed to be somewhere in the early part of
the seventeenth century. Converted to the
Christian faith, she refused to obey her
father's orders to return to the religion of
her ancestors and he, in bitter anger, plunged
a dagger into her throat. The Christians,
securing the body of the girl, had it her-
metically sealed in a coating of wax, thus
preserving it intact. It was brought to the
church in Pasajes in the last century by the
aforesaid Jose Joaquin de Ferrer y Cafranga
and his brother, who also rests here.

The making of pottery is the chief busi-
ness of Pasajes, and interesting pieces can
be purchased at the works at prices within
the reach of all; a half-dozen fruit plates and
after dinner coffee cups, hand-painted with
scenes from a bullfight, costing less than
a dollar and a half.

On leaving the pottery works we were
rowed across the Bay to the railroad station
in a heavy boat, by a sturdy Basque woman,

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

who acted as though a boat load of nine was
quite the usual thing. This Bay of Pasajes
is of especial interest to Americans, since it is
from here that Lafayette set sail for America
in 1776.

The excursion to the Pena de Aya is
naturally of a very different nature. By
train we go from San Sebastian to Irun,
where we arrive at ten-thirty. Walking up
the left side of the valley of Irun, we reached
at noon a little clump of trees, the first bit
of shade we had seen since starting. Here
we took our first lunch and, after a rest of
forty minutes, again set out on our upward
climb. At two o'clock we were on the side
of a very steep mountain. The road had
disappeared soon after we left our resting-
place, and we had been going by compass
toward the mountain we were seeking. We
had already rounded one precipitous valley
that offered no refuge, but now in another
valley that lay below us we saw a couple of
houses and a forge; so down we went, be-
cause we knew we could at least get water
there. Sitting in the clump of trees near

THE BASQUE PROVINCES

the spring we spent an hour comfortably and
finished all our lunch. One of our party
who felt too much used up to go on with us
stayed at the mine house, while the rest
started out for the last stretch of the ascent.
It took us an hour, but such an hour I never
put through in my life before! ten minutes
upward in the broiling sun to climb the
mountain that hemmed in our valley, an as-
cent where we went on all fours without
bending our bodies more than one does in
an ordinary bow; ten minutes on the level,
to round the mountain that lay between us
and the object of our pilgrimage; ten min-
utes upward again through a very dense
thicket; and then thirty minutes more with-
out shade, the ascent almost perpendicular
and as slippery as possible with its thick
bed of grass. The mountain above the val-
ley in which we had left our friend had of-
fered us a great many briars to go through,
but this last thirty minutes' stretch was for-
tunately free from this difficulty. At the
end of every five minutes we lay down and
panted like dogs, with our tongues literally

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

hanging out. We perspired so much that
everything was soaked, even our alpaca
coats, and the perspiration ran down over
our shoe tops. At four o'clock we reached
the summit and were so worn out that we
dropped as though dead and rested for a
quarter of an hour before attempting to
look around us. The view is charming and
is to be had for 360 degrees of the circle.
On the east and south we had the towering
peaks (even higher than the Pena de Aya)
of the Navarrese Pyrenees mountains, to
the south the beautiful valley of Oyarzun,
with its little river shining like a silver thread
in the late afternoon sunshine. To the south-
west lay San Sebastian, its Concha, the Isla
de Santa Clara and the mountains at the en-
trance of the bays: Monte Ulia, Monte Ur-
gull and Monte Igueldo. To the west and
north were the valley and city of Irun, Hen-
daya on the other side of the French fron-
tier, the Bidassoa River, the international
bridge and the French coast as far as Biar-
ritz. We had come up the back of the
mountain. On the front were almost im-

THE BASQUE PROVINCES

passable precipices and declivities. All of
us regretted that the next day was Sunday,
for if it had not been we should have stayed
on the mountain all night so as to enjoy the
beautiful scene by moonlight, and as the
moon was full the scene would have been
bewitching. After feasting our eyes for a
period all too short we turned back to join
our friend, not taking exactly the same route
we had come by, but steering for a mine
house that was visible, and from which we
could easily round the mountain above the
valley where he was awaiting us. Seated
on our right heels, with our left legs straight
out ahead of us, we literally slid, as on a to-
boggan, in ten minutes the distance it had
taken thirty minutes to climb. I can assure
you it was great fun. We rejoined our
friend at five o'clock, went down the other
side of the valley of Irun and reached the
station as the sun was setting.

In speaking of the Basque provinces one
should above all things not neglect to men-
tion their national sport, the Juego de Pe-
lota. It is a kind of hand-ball, but instead of

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

using the bare hand the players wear a
curiously-shaped glove, which is long and
curved like an elephant's tusk, with a hol-
low groove on the inner side of the curve.
The ball is expelled with terrific force and
the courts are consequently larger, and the
wall higher and longer than is the case with
ordinary hand-ball. No village in the Basque
provinces is without its fronton, and San Se-
bastian has three. The game has become
popular all over Spain and was transferred
even to the colonies. As in all sports of the
kind in Spain it is accompanied with fierce
and reckless betting. It was because of this
feature that the United States Government
had some difficulty in its attempts to con-
trol the game during our temporary occu-
pation of Cuba.

In Spain there are three Basque provinces,
Bizcaya, Guipuzcoa, and Alava, and they
contain about two thirds of the total Basque
population of the world, which numbers
something like half a million. The Basques
are racially and linguistically a conundrum.
For years scholars have been disputing

THE BASQUE PROVINCES

about the matter, and we do not yet know
to whom to relate them as brothers, nor to
what group to affiliate their language. They
themselves claim to be the oldest race in
Europe and perhaps they are, although one
of the theories would take them out of
Europe and relate them to the Japanese.
Still another theory relates them to the Celts
of Ireland.

They are a big-boned, sturdy people,
proud of their stock and tenacious of their
language and customs. The children be-
fore attaining school age usually cannot
talk Castilian, nor even understand it when
spoken to them. This of course makes the
problem of the elementary school instruction
very difficult.

Although Guiptizcoa and San Sebastian
(by reason of its being the summer court)
have been treated at some length, the other
provinces have likewise points of importance.
Bilbao, the capital of Bizcaya, is an impor-
tant mining center and one of the principal
seaports on the north coast. It has been
famed for centuries for its iron and steel

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

and for its swords, which were known as far
away as England and as early as Shakespeare,
for in his time a good sword was known as a
"Bilbo." Their quality rivaled the cele-
brated blades of Toledo and they could be
bent point to hilt. The capital of Alava is
Vitoria, which was founded by one of the
kings of the Visigoths in 581. On the out-
side of the choir of the Gothic church of
San Miguel there hung, until 1841, a cele-
brated sword, or knife, known as the Machete
Vitoriano. This was used whenever a Civil
Governor took his oath of office, which in-
cluded the phrase: "May my head be cut
off with this knife, if I do not defend the
charters of my fatherland." The knife is
now kept in the Town Hall. Vitoria is of
interest, furthermore, because it was the
scene of the celebrated battle of that name
between the French under King Joseph, and
Marshal Jourdan, and the British under the
Duke of Wellington, which battle practi-
cally decided the War of Independence in
Spain.

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OLD CASTILE

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OLD CASTILE

THE central part of Spain consists of an
enormous plateau of an average height
of twenty-five hundred feet. This
plateau includes the ancient kingdoms of
Leon, Old Castile, New Castile, and Estre-
madura. The whole district is almost de-
void of trees, chiefly because of the charac-
ter of the soil and climate, but also because
the peasant in central Spain is opposed to
trees since, to his way of thinking, they
harbor too many birds and the birds eat up
his crops. In spite of the general height the
district divides up into two natural basins,
which were the beds of prehistoric lakes and
correspond roughly to Leon and Old Cas-
tile, and New Castile and Estremadura.

Leaving San Sebastian at three o'clock in
the afternoon we soon come to Tolosa, to the
northwest of which lies the convent of San

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

Ignacio de Loyola, on the road between Az-
peitia and Azcoitia. This church was built
on the site of the house in which Loyola,
the founder of the Society of Jesus, was born.
About an hour further on we reach the town
of Zumarraga, which is of interest to Amer-
icans as being the birthplace of Miguel
Lopez de Legazpi, who conquered the Philip-
pines in 1571. An amusing example of the
irony of fate is the fact that the province
erected a bronze statue to Legazpi in 1897,
only a year before the Philippines were to
be lost to Spain.

At seven o'clock we passed through Vi-
toria, of which mention has already been
made, and about two hours later reached the
celebrated Garganta de Pancorbo, or Gorge
of Pancorbo. The wild scenery of the gorge
is not its only interest. During the Middle
Ages it is believed that there were two or
three bands of criminals devoted to a spe-
cific trade, namely, that of child stealing.
The children thus obtained were kept in
various secluded mountain fastnesses, and
were tortured and made cripples (special

BURGOS: CATHEDRAL.
From Street's "Gothic Architecture in Spain."

OLD CASTILE

predilection being exhibited for the produc-
tion of humpbacks and dwarfs), so that
they might be sold later to kings and princes
to serve as court fools. The Gorge of Pan-
corbo is said to have been the home of one
of these infamous bands.

Shortly after leaving Pancorbo we passed
the confines of Old Castile and reached the
town of Briviesca, which is unimportant
except for the fact that in 1388, at a meeting
of the Cortes held here, it was decreed that
the heir apparent to the throne of Castile
should officially be known as the " Prince of
Asturias," which has continued to be the
title to the present time. At eleven o'clock
we reached Burgos, a city founded, so tra-
dition says, in 884 by Diego Rodriguez Por-
celos, a Castilian count. The city lies at a
height of 2,785 feet and its climate is very
severe. Its winters are extremely cold and
its summers excessively hot. The proverbial
phrase: Nueve meses de invierno, ires de in-
fiemo — "Nine months of winter and three
of Hades," is said of several places in Spain,
and particularly of Madrid and Burgos, but

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

the real source was Burgos. The city of
Burgos is the capital of the province of
Burgos and was, at one time, the capital of
Old Castile.

Two things predominate in this city: the
cathedral and the personality of the great
national hero, Ruy Diaz de Bivar, better
known as "The Cid Campeador."

Not far from the castle are the three stone
monuments which mark the site on which
stood the birth-house of the Cid. The castle
itself, which crowns the height and was the
residence of that sturdy warrior, Fernan
Gonzalez, Count of Castile, who died in
970, witnessed the marriage of the Cid to
Ximena in 1074, and also that of Edward I
of England to Eleanor of Castile in 1254.
In the church of Santa Agueda there once
occurred an interesting ceremony. King
Sancho, brother of Alfonso VI, had been
killed under suspicious circumstances at the
battle of Zamora. Before permitting Al-
fonso VI to succeed to the throne, the Cid
forced him to swear that he had had no hand
in his brother Sancho's death. The Cid was

OLD CASTILE

evidently not convinced by the royal oath,
for he obliged Alfonso to repeat it twice.
This insistence on the part of the Cid is be-
lieved by many to have been the cause of
his ultimately falling into disfavor. As is
well known the king thrice exiled his in-
trepid questioner. Near the river stands the
Arco de Santa Maria, an interesting gateway
ornamented with the statues of various ce-
lebrities, and among them Fernan Gonzalez
and the Cid.

The cathedral, which was founded in 1221
by Ferdinand III and Bishop Maurice, an
Englishman, is constructed of white lime-
stone. It belongs to the best Gothic style
and its construction occupied more than
three hundred years. Mr. Street in his
Gothic Architecture in Spain gives a good
description, which he closes with the fol-
lowing paragraphs:

"I have now in a general way gone over
the whole of this very interesting church
and have said enough, I hope, to prove that
popular report has never overrated its real
merits, though no doubt it has regarded too

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

much those points only of the fabric which
to my eye seemed to be least worthy of
praise — the late additions to it rather than
the old church itself. As to the charm of the
whole building from every point of view
there cannot be two opinions. It has in a
large degree that real picturesqueness which
we so seldom see in French gothic interiors,
whilst at the same time it still retains much
of that fine Early Pointed work which could
hardly have been the work of any but one
who knew well the best French buildings of
his day; whoever he was — and amid the
plentiful mention of later artists I have
looked in vain for any mention of him — he
was no servile reproducer of foreign work.
The treatment of the triforium throughout is
evidently an original conception; and it is to
be noted that the dog-tooth enrichment is
freely used, and that the bells of the capitals
throughout are octagonal with concave sides.
The crocketing of the pinnacles is, I believe,
quite original ; and the general planning and
construction of the building is worthy of all
praise. Nor was the sculptor less worthy

VALLADOLID: FACADE OF SAN PABLO.
Laurent Photograph.

OLD CASTILE

of praise than the architect. The carving of
the foliage in ;he early work is good and very
plentiful; the figured sculpture is still richer,
and whether in the thirteenth-century tran-
sept doors, the fourteenth-century cloisters,
or the fifteenth-century Retablos, is amaz-
ingly good and spirited. The thirteenth-
century figures are just in the style of those
Frenchmen who always conveyed so riant
and piquant a character both of face and
attitude to their work. The later architects
all seem to have wrought in a fairly original
mode; and even where architects were
brought from Germany, there was some in-
fluence evidently used to prevent their work
being a mere repetition of what was being
done in their own land; and so aided by the
admirable skill of the Spanish artists who
worked under them, the result is much more
happy than might have been expected.
Much, no doubt, of the picturesque effect of
such a church is owing to the way in which it
has been added to from time to time: to the
large number, therefore, of personal inter-
ests, embodied in it, the variety of styles and

EAMBLES IN SPAIN

parts each of them full of individuality, and
finally to the noble memorials of the dead
which abound in it. In France — thanks to
revolutions and whitewash without stint —
the noblest churches have a certain air of
baldness which tires the eye of an English-
man used to our storied cathedrals: but in
Spain this is never the case, and we may go
to Burgos, as we may anywhere else in the
land, certain that we shall find in each
cathedral much that will illustrate every
page of the history of the country, if well
studied and rightly read.

"There is one point in which for pic-
turesque effect few countries can vie with
Spain — and this is the admission of light.
In her brilliant climate it seems to matter not
at all how many of the windows are blocked
up or destroyed: all that results is a deeper
shadow thrown across an aisle, or a ray of
light looking all the brighter by contrast; and,
though it is often a hard matter to see to
draw inside a church on the brightest day,
it is never too dark for comfort, and one comes
in from the scorching sun outside and sits

OLD CASTILE

down in the darkest spot of the dark church
with the utmost satisfaction. I saw an evi-
dence here one night of the natural apti-
tude of the people for such effects, in the
mode of lighting up the cathedral for an
evening service in a large chapel at the east
end. There was one lantern on the floor of
the nave, another in the south transept, and
the light burning before the altar: and in the
large chapel was a numerous congregation,
some sitting on the floor, some kneeling,
some standing, whilst a priest, holding a
candle in his hand, read to the people from
the pulpit. In this chapel the only other light
was from the lighted candles on the altar.
The whole church was in this way just enough
lighted to enable you to see your way, and to
avoid running against the cloaked forms that
trod stealthily about."

The Gothic cloisters are not the least not-
able part of this marvelous building. From
them we may enter the ancient Capilla del
Corpus Christi, on the north wall of which is
fastened a chest which Theophile Gautier
calls the " oldest trunk in the world." It is

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

said to be the chest that the Cid filled with
sand, covered with rich leather and brass
nails, and then gave to the Jews Rachel and
Vidas as security for six hundred marks
which he wished to borrow from them.
One of the conditions of the pledge was that
the Jews should not look at the contents of
the chest for a whole year, and that if they
did they forfeited their right to the return of
the money. Shortly afterwards they dis-
covered the hoax, and in spite of that fact
the Cid later did redeem his pledge.

Outside the city of Burgos, and at a dis-
tance of two and seven miles respectively,
there are two convents that must be visited.
The first is the Cartuja de Miraflores, a Car-
thusian convent founded by that patron of
letters John II. The church is of Gothic
style, and divided into three parts which were
used in a rather curious fashion, the part to
the west for the people, the part to the east
for the priests, while the center was reserved
for the lay monks. The church contains
two magnificent monuments. The more
important of the two is the monument of

ALONG THE RASTRO.

GATE OF THE BRIDGE.

AVILA: CITY WALLS.

OLD CASTILE

John II and Isabella of Portugal, his second
wife. The other one was erected to the In-
fante Alonso, through whose death in 1470,
at the age of sixteen, Isabella the Catholic
was able to succeed to the throne of Castile
on the death of her childless older brother
Enrique IV, in 1474. Five miles beyond this
convent is that of San Pedro de Cardena,
which for many years was the burial place
of the Cid and Ximena. The bones of the
Cid and his wife are now preserved in the
Town Hall of Burgos. It was in San Pedro
that the Cid, on the occasion of his third
exile, left his wife and his two daughters
(Dona Elvira and Dona Sol, as they are
called in the Poem of the Cid) in care of the
good Abbot Don Sancho. The Cid had a
favorite charger, Babieca, to whose speed
and endurance he owed some of his proudest
feats of arms, including the winning of the
famous sword Tizon. Legend has very
fittingly buried the noble animal near the
gateway of this convent.

A three-hour ride in the train takes us
from Burgos to Valladolid, the favorite res-

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

idence of the rulers of Castile and for a while,
under Philip II, the capital of the great
Spanish Empire. In 1469 Ferdinand and
Isabella were married here, thus preparing
for the political union, ten years later, of
Aragon with Castile and Leon. Those who
have read the brilliant masterpiece of Le
Sage will remember that it was at Vallado-
lid that Gil Bias practiced medicine under
Doctor Sangredo. At one time Valladolid
was justly celebrated for its University which,
even now, numbers about one thousand
students, and, founded by a bull of Clem-
ent XI in 1346, attained its greatest impor-
tance after the decline of Salamanca. Its
library contains some twelve thousand vol-
umes, the chief interest of which attaches to
a very valuable collection of Bibles in differ-
ent languages and a magnificent manuscript
of the Commentary on the Book of Revelation
by Beatus.1

1 An interesting account of Spanish and Portuguese Uni-
versities is to be found in Hastings Rashdall, M.A.: TJw
Universities of Europe in the Middle Ages, Oxford, 1895,
Vol. II, Part I, Chap. VII, pp. 65-107. A still fuller and

ALONG THE NORTH WALL.

PUERTA DE SAN VICENTE.

AVILA: CITY WALLS.

OLD CASTILE

Across the river Pisuerga there is a bridge
about which a curious legend is related.
The story runs that the Countess Dona
Eylo, wife of the Count Pedro Ansurez, to
whom the lordship of the city had been
granted by the King of Castile, Leon, and
Galicia, built the bridge during the absence
of her lord. On his return he considered
the bridge too narrow and built another
alongside of it, so that they are said to have
built the bridge a medias, that is to say, each
one building half. Traces of this double
construction are still to be seen. In the
opening scene of Don Gil dc las Calzas
Verdes, one of the brightest of the masterly
comedies of Tirso de Molina, mention is
made of this legend, and the delights of
Valladolid as a place of residence are ex-
tolled to the skies.

Leaving Valladolid by the Northern express
we reach Avila, 3,655 feet above the sea, at
four-twenty-two, in the first gray of the dawn,

equally Interesting account of Spanish Universities alone
will be found in Gustave Reynier: La Vic Universitaire
dans VAncienne Espagne, Paris, 1902.

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

and at five o'clock go to bed in the Hotel
Ingles, after a 'bus ride of twenty minutes to
reach the town itself and enter its walled
precincts. After a three hours' nap and the
usual light breakfast, which one would do
well to make consist of chocolate, so as to
get a little more warmth for a walk in the
cool of the morning, we go to see San Pedro,
which is open only until nine o'clock in the
morning. Its chief beauty is an exquisite
rose window. From here we go down into
the valley to the Dominican convent of
Santo Tomds. Historically the chief interest
of this convent is to be found in a superb
marble monument of the young Prince
John, the only son of Ferdinand and Isa-
bella, who died in 1497. The death of this
young prince so affected the whole nation
that it became the subject of numberless
ballads, some of which, although ignored
for centuries by literary people, survived
in the memory of the peasants and have
only recently been collected (both words
and music) by a scholarly woman, the
wife of a professor in the University of

OLD CASTILE

Madrid, Dona Maria Goyri de Menendez
Pidal.

From this convent we return to the city
and begin walking around the fine old walls
which are its chief glory, and are in a state
of perfect preservation, in spite of the fact
that they were constructed from 1090 to
1099. The city is built in a somewhat ir-
regular quadrangle, the longer sides point-
ing from the railroad to the river Adaja, the
smaller end being on the river and the wider
end opposite toward the station. We re-
gained the city at one of the angles. From
this point halfway down one of the long
sides there is a fine promenade and a beau-
tiful little park outside the wall, whence
there are attractive mountain views. The
shape of the city is due to the rocky flat-
topped ridge on which it stands and which
rises abruptly from the surrounding plain.
Three sides of the ridge are very steep. The
fourth side, the short one near the river, is
of easy approach and consequently the
strongest towers and gate were put there.
The old bridge, with its five arches, is still

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

in a fine state of preservation, but a better
view of the gate and towers can be had from
the new bridge alongside the old one. Con-
tinuing our walk around the town we find
at the other end the church of San Vicente,
which is considered the finest Romanesque
building at Avila. Under the cross of the
nave and transept is the tomb of Saint Vin-
cent, for whom the church is named, and his
sisters, Saints Sabina and Christeta. All
were martyred by having their heads cut
off, and the stone on which it was done is
preserved in the crypt. The tomb consists
of a highly carved marble sarcophagus of the
thirteenth century, above which is a canopy
supported by coupled columns. A Jew is
said to have been the sculptor of the sar-
cophagus, and while he was at work on it
an enormous serpent wound itself around
his neck. In his fright he called on the Vir-
gin, and she appeared to him; whereupon
the snake wriggled away and the Jew was
converted.

We had a little boy as our guide in this
church and he had learned his lesson thor-

OLD CASTILE

oughly by rote, but so much so that, if he
were interrupted, he had to go back and be-
gin all over again the last thing he had
started. As we began to go down the stair-
case to the crypt he said:

"As many words as there are in the Credo
so many steps will you find in this staircase."

"What's that?" I said.

"As many words as there are in the Credo
so many steps will you find in this staircase,"
he replied again.

Many are the similar cases that happened
about the monument, but this one and an-
other that I shall give a little further on par-
ticularly struck me, because of the unusual
turn of the phrase, to say nothing of the un-
usual diction.

Once in the crypt we went immediately to
the farthest room. Here on our right was
a wooden altar with doors in its front. Out
of the altar rose a rough, jagged native rock,
reaching clear to the ceiling over our head,
which of course was the floor of the church
itself. Running in a slanting, undulating
line from the altar to the ceiling was a large

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

crack or depression, and at the top a large
hole opening into the rock. Our guide in-
formed us that here the Jew was working
on the sarcophagus when he was attacked
by the snake. Then stooping and opening
the doors of the altar, he took out an ordi-
nary square tile of azulejo-work and said
that formerly there had been a wall of it
built diagonally from the middle of the rock
to the left front edge of what is now the altar.
The guide then continued :

"When the Jew was attacked by the ser-
pent he called on the Virgin, and the azulejo
wall fell down and there she stood. The
scaly monster squirmed his slimy length up
that wavy crack and disappeared in that
hole."

" What did you say ? " I asked.

"The scaly monster squirmed his slimy
length up that wavy crack and disappeared
in that hole," came the reply, in the same
words as at first, and with the right arm
raised upward in tragic earnestness, at ex-
actly the same words each time.

"How did the Virgin come to be right

OLD CASTILE

there in that corner when the Jew called on
her?" I queried.

"In those days she was on earth, and she
was hiding behind the azulejo wall, and this
[picking up once more the tile he had shown
us] is a piece that remained unbroken when
she threw the wall down."

"Where is she now?" I asked, expecting,
almost, that he would tell me she was in the
first room of the crypt, for in it I had no-
ticed a richly-dressed figure of the Virgin.

'She has gone up to heaven," was the
answer.1

1 An interesting side light on the present veneration of
the tomb of the three saints is that, according to the best
authorities that I have been able to find, the three bodies
were taken from Avila during the reign of Ferdinand the
First of Castile, because they lay there almost forgotten
and devoid of the honors that were due them. In the early
years of the second half of the eleventh century they were
taken to the Royal Monastery of San Pedro at Arlanza, and
a great concourse of the faithful attended the ceremony of
their installation. Before putting the precious bodies in
the urns that had been prepared for them, the Bishops,
Abbots and Princes asked to be allowed to take away a
small part of that sacred treasure. The request was granted

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

From San Vicente we returned to the city
through the picturesque Puerta de San Vi-
cente. Of the nine gates in the city walls
special attention should be paid to this one
and the Puerta del Alcazar which matches
it on the opposite side of the cathedral, the
Puerta de Santa Teresa and the Puerta del
Puente. From the Puerta de San Vicente
we go directly to the cathedral, which is
dedicated to San Salvador. Although it
contains many valuable works of art,1 its

and God alone knows where the bones that were taken as
relics now lie. Those that were left were placed in the
aforesaid urns. This event antedates by two centuries the
sarcophagus in San Vicente at Avila. The remains may have
been returned to Avila at that time, but I have seen no ac-
count thereof. The translation to San Pedro de Arlanza as
here related is to be found in the eleventh-century Vita
Beati Dominici of the monk Grimaldus, in the thirteenth-
century (verse) Vida de Santo Domingo de Silos of Gonzalo
de Berceo, and in the eighteenth-century (prose) Vida de
Santo Domingo de Silos of Fray Sebastian de Vergara.

1 The Retablo of the High Altar, which dates from 1508;
the handsomely carved choir stalls, due to the skill of Cor-
nielis, a sculptor from the Netherlands, who worked on
them from 1536 to 1547; the beautiful gilded iron pulpits;

-~.

SEGOVIA: GENERAL VIEW OF THE ROMAN AQUEDUCT.
Laurent Photograph.

OLD CASTILE

chief interest to me lies in its massive fortress-
like structure. It was founded originally, so
at least says tradition, by Fernan Gonzalez,
the mighty Count of Castile. It was begun
again, however, in 1091, after Alvar Garcia
of Navarre had finally conquered the city.
To these early beginnings it owes its castle-
like massiveness. Its interior is essentially
a Gothic building of the thirteenth and four-
teenth centuries. The oldest part of the
church is the east end, and at this point the
parapet projects beyond the city wall, but
looks from the outside as though it were
really a part of the wall. Behind the para-
pet a passage connects with that of the walls
themselves so that the defenders might have
easy access from one point to another. As
the cathedral wall was thus obliged to be

the tomb of Bishop Alfonso Tostado de Madrigal, who
died in 1455, a fine piece of Renaissance work from the
chisel of Domenico Fancelli and representing the Bishop
writing at a desk, the whole in very high relief and sur-
rounded by a rich architectural frame; a splendid alabaster
altar in the Sacristy; and a renowned silver monstrance in
the Vestibule.

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

its own fortification, it had naturally to be
very thick and strong. Some idea of its
enormous proportions may be had from the
fact that off from the apse and enclosed
within the thickness of these walls there are
nine semi-circular chapels which do not show
from the exterior. The interior is impress-
ive and is lighted by some exquisite stained
glass windows. From the transept around
the Capilla Mayor runs a double ambulatory,
out of which open the aforementioned semi-
circular chapels.

Until the expulsion of the Moriscos in
1610 Avila was one of the most flourishing
towns in all Spain. Even to-day no traveler
should fail to visit it, because of its unusual
situation and its many beautiful ancient
buildings, such as, for example, the palaces
of the Duque de la Roca and the Conde de
Polentinos. Likewise one should not fail
to visit the Convent of Santa Teresa, which
was built on the site of the house in which
the saint was born in 1515. Interest in
Santa Teresa has recently been revived
because of a drama written about her

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OLD CASTILE

by the well-known French author, Catulle
Mendes.

We left Avila at thirteen-forty-four (Spain
runs its clocks on a twenty-four-hour day, so
that all hours from twelve o'clock noon to
midnight bear the figures from twelve to
twenty-four), at sixteen-twenty-seven passed
through the Escorial, of which we shall speak
later, and eight miles further on at Villalba
changed cars to go to Segovia. The station
is about two miles from the city and we took
the omnibus of the least bad hotel, since we
had decided to lunch there. Having been
forewarned about the quality of the beds in
this hotel, which are said to be so lively that
they are with difficulty kept in their proper
rooms, we had determined to go on to La
Gran j a the same day.

When we had asked about omnibus com-
munication with La Granja, the proprietress
of the hotel and the Jehu who had driven
us up, both declared that the mail coach had
been suspended and that there was no com-
munication except by private carriage. They
assured us, furthermore, that no hotel at

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

La Granja was open so early in the year
(we went on the sixth of May), and that we
should have to go and return the same day.
The Jehu would take us there and back in a
.landau for five dollars. When we told him
that we would not pay such a price he of-
fered to do the job for four dollars. As we
had already come to the conclusion that
they were both trying to cheat us we deter-
mined to see what information we could
pick up in the city, for we had been told that
there was a daily service and that the fare
was thirty cents.

Having made up our minds on this point,
we decided to have lunch immediately. It
was vile! In spite of its vileness, however,
I enjoyed it — or rather, the time spent at it.
At the table was a Spaniard, a traveling agent,
who meant to go to La Granja the next day.
He had made the trip before in omnibus, and
of course expected to do so again. When I
told him what we had learned on the sub-
ject, he called the waiter, who cheerfully
told him that the 'bus service had been dis-
continued, etc., the same story, no hotels

OLD CASTILE

and all. It was really amusing. To get
away from the crux that we set before him
to the effect that the mail could not be sus-
pended, he assured us that it was carried on
horseback.

After lunch we left our baggage in the
hotel and went out to see the sights. Just
across from the hotel, on the other side of
the Plaza Mayor was a shop where photo-
graphs and other views of Segovia were to be
had. While making some purchases, we in-
quired about the service to La Granja and
learned that there was a regular service and
that the office was in a bake-shop in the
Plaza del Azoguejo, right under the Aqueduct.
A short walk brought us to the point indi-
cated. The affable baker told us that the
'bus left that square at four-thirty that very
afternoon, and that we could secure our places
in it by going a few steps up the street to
where his nephew, who ran the 'bus, was
attending to the horses. We found the nephew,
who was the son of the man who owned the
'bus, and for the regular price of thirty cents
secured our places.

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

This done, we returned to the Plaza del
Azoguejo to stand in awe before that wonder-
ful monument of an age long gone by, the
Roman Aqueduct. It probably dates from
the time of Trajan's emperorship, and as
he died in A. D. 117, the Aqueduct must be
pretty close to eighteen hundred years old.
It serves to bring the water of the Fuenfria
from the Guadarrama Mountains to the city,
a distance of about ten miles. The Aque-
duct proper, I mean the part which demanded
so much engineering skill, is nine hundred
yards long and crosses the deep valley which
surrounds Segovia. It has one hundred and
nineteen arches which, according to the for-
mation of the ground, vary from twenty-
three feet to ninety-four feet. For three
hundred yards it is carried on a double
stage of arches, and this is the part that was
directly before us and towering high above
us as we stood in the Plaza. You may imag-
ine our feelings when we stopped to think
that in all those arches there was neither
mortar nor clamp of any kind to hold the
stones in place, and that it is to-day as solid

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OLD CASTILE

as it was the day of its completion. The
only part in the whole structure where ce-
ment was used was in the open conduit for
the water. In 1901 when we visited it the
cement was still so hard that if one tried to
chip it off a piece of the stone always came
out with it. If information from Spanish
newspapers be correct, the government in
the spring of 1909 decided to discontinue
the active use of the Aqueduct, and to take
measures for its preservation as a National
Monument.

From the Aqueduct we went to the ca-
thedral on the Plaza Mayor. It is in the
form of an enormous Gothic basilica which
has been very well described by Mr. Street
in his Gothic Architecture in Spain. The most
interesting part of it is that forming the ex-
quisite Gothic cloisters, which are reached
through a fine Gothic portal. The cloisters
were built in 1524 (I mean they were fin-
ished then), one year before the present ca-
thedral was begun. They contain three
monuments of special interest: that of Gil
de Hontanon and his son, the architects of

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

the cathedral; that of the Infante Pedro, son
of Henry II, whose careless nurse, having
dropped him from a window in the Alcazar
in 1366, threw herself after him in order to
avoid the fate she knew would be hers as a
penalty for her carelessness; and that of
Maria del Salto, a beautiful Jewess who was
accused of adultery and thrown from the
neighboring precipice of La Grajera. She
called upon the name of the Virgin and
alighted unhurt, a fact which was consid-
ered proof of her innocence. She died in
1237.

From the cathedral we went to the Ro-
manesque church of San Esteban which in
itself is uninteresting, but is noted for the
beautiful open arcades which run around
three sides of it. The lofty tower, which
dates from the thirteenth century, shows
openings that are alternately pointed and
round-arched. The whole thing was in such
a fine state of decay that the tower had been
wound with heavy steel cables to prevent
its falling down. This precaution had been
taken by the government which had selected

LA GRANJA: FOUNTAIN.

LA GRANJA : GARDENS.

OLD CASTILE

it as a National Monument. This meant
that it was directly under governmental con-
trol, so that it might the better be preserved
and restored.

The city of Segovia itself is possessed of
only thirteen thousand inhabitants, and is
relatively small, even for that population.
And yet, the crooked little streets give one
an extreme feeling of emptiness. Block after
block is lined with the bare, bleak walls of
deserted convents; here and there one meets
a solitary pedestrian. Once we met a bevy
of half a dozen bright, laughing senoritas,
who seemed strangely out of place in the
general and all-pervading quietness and des-
olation. In no other town of Spain did I
encounter such an oppressive sense of lack
of life.

In this respect Segovia is very different
from Toledo, to which in all other respects
it may very well be likened, although even
in these points of similarity it has distinc-
tive features of its own. Both are very much
given to churches and convents, although
Segovia is in much the more deserted and

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

ruinous condition of the two, and has many
Roman remains as against Toledo's evi-
dences of Moorish supremacy. Both are
perched on high, rocky hills and possess
royal palaces. At Toledo the deep gorge
of the Tagus almost surrounds the rocky
knoll on which the city is perched, and the
land on the opposite side of the river is al-
most on the same level as the edges of the
city itself. Segovia saddles the hill which
occupies the narrow slip of land between
the rivers Eresma and Clamores, which
join their waters at the west end of the town.
On the south the Clamores runs along the
base of the cliff, but on the north, between
the cliff and the river there is a small meadow
which leaves room for a beautiful, shady
promenade, from which one gets a good idea
of the 330 feet of precipitous cliff which
aided mightily in the defense of the place
and which is surmounted by the old city
walls with their eighty-three towers. The
hill is precipitous on all sides but the east
(and even here the ascent is stiff), and rises
higher and higher toward the western point,

OLD CASTILE

between the two rivers, on which is situated
the Alcazar. From the little church of Vera
Cruz, situated in a valley across the Eresma,
a fine view of the Alcazar and the whole city
may be obtained, and it is from this point
that it has with considerable justice been
said to look like "a ship in full sail toward
the setting sun."

The drive out to La Granja in the cool of
the afternoon was very pleasant. The route
is lined on both sides by magnificent trees
which almost meet overhead, and the long
vista down the straight road is extremely
pretty. Segovia lies 3,300 feet above the sea,
but to reach La Granja one must climb an-
other 605 feet. The snow-clad Guadarrama
Mountains hemmed us in on all sides and
the view was delightful. The nearer we got
to La Granja the cooler it became, until we
were glad to draw our wraps about us, al-
though the fresh, pure air felt very grateful
to our lungs.

We were driven to the best hotel in the
village and after a good night's sleep spent
the morning in visiting the gardens of the

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

palace. In 1719 this place was purchased
and built by Philip V, the first of the Bour-
bon dynasty in Spain. He never could for-
get La Douce France, and tried to reproduce
in these mountain fastnesses the beautiful
gardens of Versailles. In minor details he
sometimes surpassed his model, but the gen-
eral effect seems to me to be not so good.
The fountains are much superior to their
French prototypes; whereas the palace is
woefully inferior to the magnificent pile at
Versailles. Upstairs it is really cozy, home-
like, and luxurious, but the dining halls,
smoking rooms and concert rooms down-
stairs seem positively shoddy.

The next day at nine o'clock we started off
on a walk of six miles to the suppressed Car-
thusian Monastery of El Paitlar. The sky
was a leaden gray, just the day for a long,
hard walk, and we were particularly thank-
ful that there was no sun, since there was
not a tree the whole distance except right
in the village of La Granja and in the meadow
in the immediate neighborhood of the con-
vent. When the guide told us we should

SEGOVIA: PEASANTS OF THE PROVINCE.
Laurent Photograph.

OLD CASTILE

spend at least four hours on the way out and
somewhat more on the return I confess I
was somewhat inclined to doubt his veracity,
for I already knew the distance to be six
miles and am accustomed to walking at a
four-mile gait. In view of my recent ex-
perience with that cheerful liar in Segovia I
can hardly be blamed for my thoughts, and
I set his story down as due to his desire to
make us willing to pay his price. I did the
man a great injustice, for which I am heartily
sorry.

As we were not sure what kind of lunch
we should have at El Paular we took one
with us. There was snow on the top of the
mountains and it looked as though it would
storm before the day was over, so we car-
ried our heavy wraps.

In spite of the fact that we started from
La Granja, whose altitude is 3,905 feet, we
had three mountain ridges to climb before
reaching the apex of the Guadarrama range
which, by our path, was the bare and bleak
Puerto de Reventon which is about 7,000 feet
above the sea. And still we were only half-

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

way to El Paular. In other words the
climb of about 3,000 feet from La Granja had
been put into a distance of about three miles.
The view from the summit is wide and cov-
ers most of Old and New Castile. It is, too,
not without its beauties, of a bare and rugged
type, although not to be compared with the
superb view from the Pena de Aya.

The side of the mountain we had been
climbing was somewhat toward the north.
As we climbed higher and higher it grew cool
enough to be comfortable, but without hav-
ing recourse to our wraps, which we had re-
moved on beginning the ascent. When we
reached the top the sun came out, which was
another fortunate circumstance for, on the
descent of the other side, we found quanti-
ties of snow. Of course the deepest parts
were in the hollows where it had drifted and
packed. In many of these hollows flowed
rapid mountain streams, and we had the
unpleasant sensation that if the crust of snow,
which always let us sink in at least six inches,
should not pack solidly under our feet at that
depth, we were likely to be dropped into an

100

OLD CASTILE

icy bath. A little further down the moun-
tain the snow became softer and we fre-
quently went in up to our knees. This state
of affairs added very much to our actual
physical discomfort because the snow now
stuck to our clothes, and our mental dis-
comfort was certainly not diminished by the
increased probability of the aforesaid bath.

About a quarter of an hour after leaving
the snow we reached the summit of the first
of the two mountains between the Puerto de
Reventon and El Paular; and about three-
quarters of an hour later reached the sum-
mit of the last mountain. Before us lay the
beautiful valley of the Lozoya, and in its
center the old Carthusian monastery of El
Paular. The whole scene nestles so close
to the foot of the mountain that, from the
Puerto de Reventon, in spite of the greater
altitude, the valley is not visible. Another
half-hour of rapid walking and we threw
ourselves down to rest in the convent. We
had started from La Granja at nine-thirty
and we entered the convent gate at exactly
one-thirty.

101

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

The portress, to whom we had been rec-
ommended by a friend, was very cordial
and attentive, and wanted to give us some-
thing to eat. Although we had brought our
lunch with us we lacked something warm-
ing, and in choosing between her coffee,
which was certain to be execrable, and a
soup, concerning which we were not so cer-
tain, we decided on the latter. The good
woman soon appeared with a steaming dish
filled with a rich, red-colored soup, and as
it had been cooked in the brown dish in
which it was served it was still boiling when
we got it. In Spain an ordinary soup is
called caldo. It gets the name sopa only when
it has the sop added to it. Ours came on
then with the sop in it and did indeed look
appetizing. But fate must have been against
us when we made our choice. The rich
color was due to a dash of saffron and a cer-
tain very good bologna which had been
boiled with it and then removed. In short,
there was only the barest flavor, or rather
color, of these two really good ingredients,
and the dish turned out to be nothing more

102

VIEW FROM LOWER ALTAR.

VIEW FROM UPPER ALTAR.

EL PAULAR: TABERNACLE.

OLD CASTILE

nor less than a vile garlic soup! I thanked
my stars that a generous impulse had made
me fill to the brim the dish that I sent out
to the guide. But in spite of that there still
remained the serious problem of getting
away with enough of the stuff to avoid of-
fending our hostess. After looking in vain
for a place in the rickety floor where I might
dump a plate of the villainous dish under a
loose board, we decided that we should have
to eat what we then had before us, although
we swore that, not even to please our hos-
tess, would we touch a drop of what still
remained in the soup dish. I tried to pass
some more of it off on the guide, but even he
rebelled. We finally got the dose down and
were starting out to inspect the convent
when the woman came in.

"Oh!" she said. "You have left half of
the soup. What's the matter ? Isn't it
good ? "

Now there was a poser. Instead of being
delighted, as any sensible landlady would
have been that her guests were small eaters,
she must needs be hurt about it, and attrib-

103

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

ute our lack of appetite to the bad quality
of her victuals. Now, what was I to do ?
She had shown such a willingness to do all
in her power to serve us well (and really had
done the best that she could under the cir-
cumstances), that I was unwilling to cause
her pain by a blunt assent to her question.
On the other hand, I was not exactly in-
clined to tell her that the soup was the best
one I had ever eaten. So I steered my
course between the two rocks, and told her
the trouble was that there was too much of
it, which was certainly the absolute truth.

The monastery church of El Paular was
built in 1433-1440, by Abderrahman, a
Moor of Segovia. It still contains some in-
teresting altars and tombs as well as a few
good paintings by Palomino and others.
The Tabernacle is particularly gorgeous and
beautiful. The light was not very good for
taking photographs, but, as it was impos-
sible to secure them any other way, I risked
it. The first one I took with the camera
resting on an altar some distance from the
tabernacle. Then I noticed a square cornice

104

OLD CASTILE

at about the height of my head if I stood up
on the altar. The cornice was part of the
molding around a niche in which was a
figure of the Virgin. A bench which the
attendant got for me was placed upon the
altar so that by standing on it my head
might be somewhat higher than the camera
would be when placed upon the ledge. In
this way I was able to direct the camera so
that it aimed straight for the second photo-
graph. Both photographs turned out well,
and as they were taken at different heights
the one completes the other. This is some-
what necessary, since the Tabernacle was
in a sort of openwork room of its own, and
the lintel of the doors somewhat hid it. By
means of the two photographs taken thus
from different angles one gets the whole
thing and it is really worth while. And this
in spite of the fact that the convent has been
suppressed and is now abandoned and fall-
ing into decay.

At three o'clock in the afternoon, just an
hour and a half after arriving at El Paular,
we started on the homeward trip. Again we

105

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

had three mountains to climb to reach the
Puerto de Reventon and three from there to
La Gran j a to go down. We got up the first
one without experiencing any great dis-
comfort. The second one cost more work
and we had to rest several times. A biting
wind was raging and was becoming stronger
and colder every minute. The third moun-
tain was still before us. The gale fairly took
away our breath, and every few minutes we
had to throw ourselves down in the scrub
pine (which grew to the height of about a
foot and in bushes rather than trees) to es-
cape its fury and recover our strength. This
time we made a detour, skirting the edge of
most of the snow. When we finally reached
the top we found the wind a perfect hurri-
cane. It stung our faces, bit through our
clothes, and thoroughly benumbed us. By
the time we had finished the first two moun-
tains we thought our legs would double un-
der us for lack of strength sufficient to re-
sist the impact of the downward step. How
we got down the third mountain I do not
know. At this point our discomfort was in-

106

SEGOVIA : LA CASA DE LOS PICOS.
Laurent Photograph.

OLD CASTILE

creased by the beginning of rainfall. There
was not enough of it to wet us, but the drops
of water driven by the fury of the wind
lashed our faces until they felt as though
they were being cut with a knife. We
reached the hotel at seven-thirty, after four
hours and a half of walking. In spite of the
difficulty of the trip it is one that I consider
thoroughly worth while.

The next day we returned to Segovia and
went immediately to the Alcazar, which is a
fine example of an old Castilian castle. As
it occupies the high rocky point between the
two rivers it needed a moat and drawbridge
only on the side away from the point, the
other two sides of the triangle being formed
by the two rivers and the precipitous sides
of the promontory. On this, which we may
call the land side, is the real facade of the
castle and it is flanked by two immense
towers. Here Isabella the Catholic was pro-
claimed Queen of Castile in 1474. The
Alcazar was unsuccessfully stormed by the
Comuneros in 1520; and it is indeed hard
to see how it could ever have been stormed

107

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

successfully in bygone days before the in-
troduction of heavy field artillery. It is in
this castle, too, that Gil Bias was kept a
prisoner on the eve of his marriage. Con-
cerning the Pieza del Cordon there is an ex-
tremely interesting legend to the effect that
in this room King Alfonso X, called the
Learned, had reached such a point in his
studies of astronomy, that he was about to
declare that the earth moves round the sun,
but that a sudden flash of lightning pre-
vented his making such an heretical asser-
tion. In commemoration of the warning
Alfonso had the room decorated by carving
the rope (cordon) of St. Francis around the
frieze, and it is still to be seen.

From the Alcazar we went to the Calle de
los Leones which runs along one side of the
cathedral, and gets its name from the fact
that the handsome fence surrounding that
side of the cathedral is decorated with large
stone lions. On this street is the palace of
the Marques del Arco which is called the
Casa de Segovia, and is possessed of a beauti-
ful patio. Thence we went to the Casa de los

108

OLD CASTILE

Picos, which belongs to the Marques de
Quintaner. The name of the house is due to
the facets which have been cut upon the
exterior stones.

From here we drove along the foot of the
wall down into the valley of the Eresma.
The first building of interest was the former
convent of Santa Cruz, which has an un-
usually beautiful Gothic portal. As we con-
tinued our drive along the base of the walls,
we saw on the gentle slope across the river,
which was still below us, the suppressed
Monasterio del Parral, with a few remains
of its Gothic cloisters. This Hieronymite
convent was famous for its well-kept gardens,
and they gave rise to the saying: "The
gardens of the Parral are an earthly Para-
dise" (Las huertas del Parral, jmraiso te-
rrenal). A little farther on we descended to
the river, passed the Romanesque church of
Vera Cruz, a twelve-sided building con-
structed by the Knights of the Temple as
long ago as the first decade of the thirteenth
century, in imitation of the Church of the
Holy Sepulcher at Jerusalem, and drove to

109

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

the Santuario de Fuencisla, nestling up un-
der the towering Pena de la Grajera. The
church was built and dedicated to the Virgin
of Fuencisla in honor of the miraculous es-
cape, or rescue, of the beautiful Jewess
Maria del Salto, of whom we have already
spoken.

From here we were driven halfway around
the city, again passing the Mint (Fdbrica de
la Moneda) and the magnificent old Aque-
duct, on our way to the railway station to
take train for Salamanca.

In 1603 a traveling actor, Agustin de Rojas,
in his celebrated book, El Viaje Entretenido,
gave an excellent description of Segovia
which I cannot refrain from quoting:

" Ramirez: We are very near to the city of
Segovia.

"Solano: Isn't it wonderful how many
kinds of coarse cloth and fine cloth are made
in it ? And how good they all are !

"Rios: That's true, but there are other
things also for which it deserves the highest
praise, for example the Mint, the Alcazar
and fortress, which is one of the best, most

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beautiful and strongest in the whole king-
dom.

"Ramirez: And the wood which is located
in that valley with so many shade trees and
brooks, full of wild boar, roe-deer, chamois
and all kinds of creatures, whether bird or
beast, isn't that wonderful ?

"Rojas: Well, if you want to talk about
its antiquity it is one of the oldest in Spain.
For, according to a certain chronicle it was
founded by the Celtiberian Spaniards and
was peopled by King Hispan, from whom
Spain took its name, although there are
some who insist that this city is the one which
Ptolemy called Segoncia. . . . Among the
great buildings which it has, both strong and
noble, there is a stone bridge by which the
water comes into the city, and which they
say was made by the orders of the Emperor
Trajan, and which has, as you have seen,
many arches upon arches and the whole
thing without any mixture of cement, lime
or anything else.

"Ramirez: The fencing room which is in
the Alcazar, isn't that notable ? And that

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RAMBLES IN SPAIN

other room in which are painted the por-
traits of all the kings and princes of Spain,
imitating the appearance, figure and age
of each one at his death.

" Solano : Aside from this it has many
monasteries and very good ones, and among
them that of the Parral which belongs to the
Hieronymites and that of Santa Cruz la Real
of the Dominicans, and that church which
is being built for Our Lady of the Fuen-
cilla, who performs so many miracles every
day.

"Rojas: Many things could be said in
praise of this great city because, without
doubt, I believe it is the one where more
alms are given than in any other city in
Castile, or for that matter in most of Spain,
and this I can say as an eye-witness, for I
saw it when I was here with Rios three years
ago."

112

LUIS MAZZANTINI AND CUADRILLA.
E. Beauchy Pholograjih .

GUERRITA PREPARING TO KILL.
Photographer not known.

SALAMANCA

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THE express to the north from Segovia
arrived shortly after midnight at Me-
dina del Campo, where we were obliged
to change cars. In a station whose only
waiting room was a restaurant, wherein of
course smoking was permitted, we spent
more than two hours before the departure
of the train to Salamanca, which we reached
exactly on time, at four-fifty-nine in the morn-
ing. We drove immediately to the best hotel
in the town and went to bed to rest until noon.
At dinner, which was very good, the proprietor
was always on the lookout to see if anyone
passed a course, and, if so, he came imme-
diately to that person to see what he would
like in place of the course he had refused.

In the afternoon we started on a round of
sightseeing and went first to the Plaza Mayor,
which was the scene of the Salmantino bull-

115

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

fights until 1863, and is the best park or
square of its kind in the country. The one
at San Sebastian is very similar to it. Next
we visited the Casa de las Conchas, so called
because of the scallop shells that are carved
all over the exterior walls. The same de-
sign is carried out in the fine Gothic window-
grilles. Finer ones I have not seen outside of
England. The house dates from 1514, and
is now the property of the Marques de
Valdecarzana. It has a handsome patio,
with a deep well of delicious water in its
center, and a granite staircase leading to the
cloister-like gallery on which open all the
rooms of the house. The vaulting of this
staircase is the original, and is an interest-
ing example of the artesonado style, the
colors still being very bright and fresh.
The balustrade is of beautifully carved
granite.

From here we went to the New Cathedral
which was planned by the "Catholic Kings"
because they considered the Old Cathedral
to be "very small, very dark, and very low.'*
It was not begun, however, until 1509; and,

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owing to several differences of opinion be-
tween the chapter and the architects, was not
completed until 1733. As a natural result of
the long period over which its construction is
stretched, it forms, as some one has aptly
said, "a record in stone of the lapse of time
and the changes of taste." Here one may
study the Late Gothic, the Plateresque and
Baroque styles, one beside the other, and
yet the general effect is not altogether un-
pleasing. The west or main facade is adorned
with sculpture almost to the point of excess,
although one is forced to admit that it is all
very beautiful.

In the relicario a priest showed us the
treasures, those of chief interest being an
ivory Madonna, an exquisite piece of work
presumably of the fourteenth century; and
the celebrated bronze Crucifix of the Cid,
brought to Salamanca by the Cid's com-
panion-in-arms, Bishop Jeronimo Visquio,
and called El Cristo de las Batallas, the Christ
of Battles. The priest handed me the Cruci-
fix and I examined it carefully, talking the
while about the life of the Cid. As I hung it

117

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

up on its nail, I noticed a beautiful little
painting on copper, about four and a half by
seven inches. I don't recall the subject, but
it certainly deserves examination.

Through a door in one of the chapels of
the New Cathedral we entered the Old Ca-
thedral. This is a magnificent piece of
work in spite of, or rather partially because
of, its lack of the usual gaudy decorations.
It is an exquisite creation of the transition
style in Spain; and with its cold, chaste lines,
and lofty arches, which in spite of their mas-
siveness are graceful and actually seem
slender, it is very impressive. The walls are
about ten feet thick and that is the reason
for the name Fortis Salmantina, Salamanca
the Strong, which is usually applied to this
Old Cathedral. It was founded about 1100
and finished something like a hundred years
later.

One of the chief glories of this church is
its lantern or tower, called La Torre del
Gallo, because of the cock on its summit.
The best view is to be had from the Patio
Chico, whence one can see also the three

118

SALAMANCA: PORTAL OF THE UNIVERSITY, AND BACK OF STATUE OF

FRAY LUIS DE LEON.

Photographer not known.

SALAMANCA

semi-circular apses. Mr. Street, in his Gothic
Architecture in Spain, says:

"I have seldom seen any central lantern
more thoroughly good and effective from
every point of view than this is: it seems in-
deed to solve, better than the lantern of any
church I have yet seen elsewhere, the ques-
tion of the introduction of the dome to
Gothic churches. The lofty pierced tam-
bour, and the exquisite effect of the light ad-
mitted at so great a height from the floor,
are features which it is not, I believe, vain
to hope we may see emulated ere long in
some modern work. But in any such at-
tempt it must be borne well in mind that,
though the scale of this work is very mod-
erate, its solidity and firmness are excessive,
and that thus only is it that it maintains that
dignified manliness of architectural character
which so very few of our modern architects
ever seem even to strive for. From all
points, too, this lantern groups admirably
with the rest of the church."

The interior is remarkable for its massive
but symmetrical proportions which, as I

119

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

said before, are not spoiled by the usual
gaudy excrescent decorations. This does
not mean that there are none. On the con-
trary, there are many, but they are all, or
nearly all, purely architectural decorations,
cut right out of the stone itself.

From the transept we enter the fine old
cloisters (built toward the end of the twelfth
century), from which open several chapels,
the most interesting one being the Capilla de
Talavera, so called because it contains the
tomb of one of the Talavera family. This
chapel has a very unusual parallel arrange-
ment of its groining ribs. It was founded in
1510 for the Mozarabic or Visigothic Ritual,
which differs from the Latin or Roman
Ritual in thirteen important points, and is
celebrated in this chapel six times each year.

From here we went to the University,
which is of course the most interesting fea-
ture of the whole city. It is precisely to its
university that the international reputation of
Salamanca is due. Founded by Alfonso IX
of Leon, who died in 1230, it quickly became
more brilliant than the Castilian University

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at Palencia, and Pope Alexander IV, as early
as 1254, ranked it with the great Universi-
ties of Bologna, Paris and Oxford. At its
period of greatest brilliancy in the middle of
the sixteenth century, it was attended by
about seven thousand students. Now there
are only four hundred. Of that famous
galaxy, Bologna, Salamanca, Paris, and Ox-
ford, only the last two are now of prime im-
portance, and of them Oxford stands in
some need of an infusion of new blood. In
the case of Salamanca the decline is pe-
culiarly regrettable, since its characteristic
functions were the introduction of Arabic
learning into the rest of Europe and the
democratic preservation of the liberties of
the Middle Ages, whereas Alcala stood for
the new aristocratic, centralizing tendencies
which were later to prove the ruination of
Spain. One of the most mournful signs of
Salamanca's downfall is not so much the
difference in the number of students throng-
ing its halls as the fact that whereas formerly
they came from all over Europe, they now
come from Spain alone.

121

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The University was originally housed very
modestly, but in 1480 the "Catholic Kings"
altered the building beyond recognition and
furnished it with an ornate facade which is
the most splendid model of the Plateresque
style. The building surrounds an attractive
patio from which open the lecture rooms.
To the second story we mount by a wide stair-
case the balustrade of which is Gothic in de-
sign and decorated with odd reliefs of bull-
fights as they were in the fifteenth century.
Here we find the library which, although con-
taining only eighty thousand volumes, is
important and interesting as being one of
the oldest in Europe, having been founded
by Alfonso the Learned in 1254.

To my mind the lion of this most interest-
ing old institution is the lecture room of
Fray Luis de Leon. It was in this room that
he was lecturing as Professor of Theology,
when he was interrupted by the officers of
the Inquisition, who had come to arrest him
for having translated into Spanish the Song
of Solomon. This occurred in March, 1572,
and he was kept a prisoner by the local au-

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thorities for four and a half years, during
which time he was baited with all sorts of
questions in the hope of convicting him of
heresy. He put in his time, however, writ-
ing his most celebrated treatise, which is the
greatest of Spanish mystic books, The Names
of Christ, in which he tries to interpret the
meaning of such names as "Prince of Peace,"
"Mount," "Shepherd," etc., when applied
to Christ. In December of 1576 he was ac-
quitted, and returned to the Chair which
Salamanca had kept vacant for him. The
opening words of his first lecture: Dicebamus
heri, "We were saying yesterday," are suffi-
cient evidence of the supreme serenity of his
mind and soul. Another explanation of
these words is that the Inquisition, when it
acquitted him, ordered him to make no ref-
erence to the time he was in prison; and he
took this means of suppressing the whole
period. For worthy recognition, this man,
the chief glory of Salamanca, had to wait un-
til 1869. In that year an imposing bronze
statue of the poet was cast and set up in the
peaceful little Plazuela de la Universidad,

123

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

facing the main facade of his beloved Uni-
versity.

The old lecture room and professorial
chair have been maintained as they were in
his time. I do not mean to give the impres-
sion that any care has been taken of the room
to preserve it thus. On the contrary: it is
dusty and dirty, and owes its preservation
to the fact that, as it is quite dark, none of
the professors has cared to use it, and con-
sequently it has not been thought necessary
to renovate it. It is now used only for in-
dignation meetings on the part of the students.
The benches are rough logs, squared with
an adz, and set on posts at the proper
height. The desks are other logs treated in
the same fashion, and set on posts at their
proper height. As no photographs of the
room could be bought I took two myself, in
spite of the fact that the light was very poor,
making necessary time exposures, and that
the foundation for the camera when taking
the picture of the chair was unsteady. This
latter fact accounts for the double lines in
that photograph. The foundation referred

124

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SALAMANCA

to was indeed a chair, placed upon a pile of
tapestries (like those hanging on the far wall
of the picture), which in turn lay on a
rickety bench, upon which I had to stand.

From the University we made our way to
the convent of San Esteban, in whose Salon
de Profundus Columbus, in 1486, tried to
persuade the Salmantino scholars of the
scientific accuracy and feasibility of his
scheme. The church and cloisters are for
many reasons interesting, and we spent here
an extremely enjoyable morning, in the com-
pany of a charming, white-robed friar who
showed us everything. He even went with-
out his lunch in order to take us up a hidden
stairway (the last stretch of which was a
ladder) to the top of the retablo of the high
altar, his object being to permit us to ex-
amine at close range a highly revered twelfth-
century bronze group of the Virgen de la
Vega. We found that the group was on a
pedestal whose wheels fitted on tracks that
crossed the open space up which we had
climbed and led into a niche beyond. The
friar explained that during Holy Week the

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RAMBLES IN SPAIN

Virgin is rolled into the niche, and a
Crucifix takes its place at the top of the
retablo.

From this convent we proceeded to the
Torre del Clavero, which was built in 1480
by Francisco de Sotomayor, who was a
Clavero (Keybearer) of the Order of Alcan-
tara. The building is still owned by the
family of Sotomayor.

The order of Alcantara is one of the four
great Orders of Spain, viz.: Calatrava, San-
tiago, Alcantara, and Montesa. Calatrava
was founded in 1158 in the town of that
name. Santiago was founded in 1175 for the
purpose of protecting from the Moors the
pious pilgrims who flocked to the shrine of
Saint James at Santiago de Compostela in
Galicia, and took its name from that fact.
In the year 1212 a company of Knights of
the Order of Calatrava was stationed to de-
fend the town of Alcantara in Estremadura
against the Moors. The defense was long,
stubborn and severe, but at length success-
ful, and the company of knights decided to
found a separate order in honor of the event,

126

Painting by Goya In Museum of Hispanic Society of America, New York.

THE DUCHESS OF ALBA.
llixpanic Society Photograph, Copyrighted .

SALAMANCA

being thus an offshoot of the oldest order,
Calatrava. The Order of Montesa was
founded in the castle of Montesa, in the
province of Valencia in 1317, to succeed the
Knights of the Temple, or Templars, as they
are usually called. It has always remained
subject to the Order of Calatrava and hence
has never had an entirely separate indi-
viduality as have the other three.

We next visited the Casa de la Salina
which was built by the Fonseca family in
1516, but is now the palace of the Provincial
Diet. Both the exterior and the patio are
extremely interesting. Not far from here is
the attractive Casa de las Muertes, which
was built about the beginning of the six-
teenth century. I was unable to discover to
what circumstances it owes its name. A
little farther on is a massive fortress-like
building called the Palacio de Monterey. Its
facade is pierced by but few windows and
its ends are surmounted by two high towers
which only add to its warlike appearance.
These towers are connected along the roof
by a finely carved stone balustrade which,

127

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since the roof serves also as a roof -garden, is
not merely an ornament.

Salamanca has one general beauty that I
have up to this time left unmentioned. All
the buildings are constructed of the same
material, a light-colored sandstone which, in
the passage of the centuries, has acquired a
wonderful golden-brown hue.

After a brief visit to the Colegio de Santiago
Apostol which is now occupied by the Colegio
de Nobles Irlandeses or College of Noble
Irishmen, we wandered through the pleasure
grounds of the Plaza de San Fra?icisco, and
across the suburbs to the river Tonnes, where
all the washerwomen of the town were kneel-
ing in their little boxes at the edge of the
water and doing the city's washing. We
walked upstream to the Roman bridge which
crosses the river, starting from Salamanca at
the suburb of Santiago. The fifteen arches
next to the city belong to the Roman period
and excel the other twelve arches, not only
in antiquity, but also in general architectural
effect.

Although there are many other points of

- ■ PHI

EL ESCORIAL: LA SILLA DEL REY.

MADRID: STREET SCENE.

SALAMANCA

interest in Salamanca, at least one more
building should be visited, no matter how
short one's stay. I refer to the Conventual
Church of the Agustinas. Architecturally
it is without interest, but it contains two
paintings by Ribera which are gems, es-
pecially the one over the high altar repre-
senting the Conception. The Ribera paint-
ings that are to be found in the German
galleries and in London are usually studies
in drab and in the emaciated. This one,
however, gives us a very different phase of
the artist's ability. The figure of the Vir-
gin, executed with considerable charm, is
draped in a superbly painted mantle. Her
face, radiant with mother-love, is turned up-
ward toward a group of happy angels which
surrounds her. The picture is resplendent
with rich coloring, but still perfectly harmo-
nized. The other painting is in the south
transept, and shows us the Virgin and Child,
together with a couple of saints. While de-
servedly less celebrated than its companion,
it is a worthy example of the master who
painted it.

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The best description I have ever read of
the general impression of Salamanca is that
given by Gustave Reynier in his Vie Uni-
versitaire dans VAncienne Espagne, and with
a translation thereof we shall close our visit
to Salamanca.

"One would like to find rare, exotic
words with which to give expression to the
beauty of Salamanca. In the naked plain
which is surrounded by a circle of faintly out-
lined hills, crowned with towers and domes
and steeples she rises like a sovereign city.
And, tinted with fine colors, which go from
pale rose to old gold, luminous under this
clear sky and in this light air she flourishes
like a flower.

"Nowhere, perhaps, could one find shut
in within so small a space, so many exquisite
works, so many sumptuous buildings. The
magnificence of the new cathedral and the
robust grace of the old, the harmonious lines
of the churches, of the old colleges; the pal-
aces charged with illustrious coats-of-arms,
where one sees glistening the sun of the
Solis, the stars of the Fonsecas, the five lilies

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of the Maldonados ; so many ancient houses
whose open portals permit one to catch
glimpses of courts paved in marble, elegant
porticoes, fine colonnades, the worn curbs
of old wells, all that forms a really unique
ensemble where the poetry of a distant past
is mingled with the most delicate impres-
sions of art.

"When one wanders in these streets, which
are frequently silent, one is arrested at al-
most every step: a grille in wrought iron, a
bouquet of pinks sculptured over a door, a
medallion encased in a wall, a Virgin or a
saint in a niche, a frieze where fabulous an-
imals pursue each other, a balcony whence
garlands are falling, a thousand charming
details attract and fascinate. Certain facades
are pure marvels, master works of that
minute and complicated art which is called
Plateresque. In it, stones are chiseled like
jewels, or cut out like lace. They are of a
grain so fine and so compact that time has
respected their most delicate arabesques;
they are furthermore, these stones of Sala-
manca, yellow as gold, or pink as peach

131

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

blossoms, and always of a color so warm that
even in the grayest mornings of winter one
would still believe them to be lightened up
by the sun. The 'Palace of the Montereys,'
the 'House of the Deaths,' the 'House of
the Shells/ the ' Convent of the Holy Spirit,'
what a number of delightful monuments from
which one cannot remove one's glance, and
of which one would like to carry away in his
eyes the clear and laughing image! But
what leaves, after all, the strongest and
most complete impression, is certainly the
Plaza of the University.

"When one stops at the foot of the statue
of Fray Luis, the master so illustrious and
so good, one has, at his right, the ancient
hospital of the students, the ravishing por-
tal of the Minor Schools, their elegant clois-
ter and their little garden; at the left, the
old houses which the University rented to
its librarians; in front the incomparable
facade of the University itself, the eagles, the
broad coats-of-arms, the profiles of the
'Catholic Kings/ the statues of Force and
Beauty; against the sky are outlined the

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bell-tower and the two clock-towers of the
Chapel of San Jeronimo. Nothing has
changed there during three centuries: the
little round stones upon which one walks
are the same that were trodden by so many
grave doctors, so many adolescents intoxi-
cated with knowledge, ambition and youth;
the walls, here as everywhere throughout
the city, permit one to see still just as sharp
drawn and distinct as on the first day, the
famous vitores, those inscriptions in red let-
ters which relate the scholastic triumphs of
former times. In this charming decoration,
everything still bears the imprint of the uni-
versity life of other ages, everything evokes
its familiar scenes and its brilliant recollec-
tions."

133

y?. rji n n

ARCHIEPISCOPAL PALACE: FACADE OF THE RIGHT WING.

ARCHIEPISCOPAL PALACE: RECEPTION HALL.

ALCALA DE HENARES.

NEW CASTILE

ALCALA DE HENARES: FACADE OF THE UNIVERSITY.

ALCALA DE HENARES: PARANINFO OF THE UNIVERSITY.

NEW CASTILE

FROM Salamanca, the only city we visit
in the ancient Kingdom of Leon, we
take train for Madrid, which is the
capital of New Castile as well as of Spain,
and will serve as headquarters from which
to make the various excursions that will be
necessary while we remain within the con-
fines of this new kingdom.

Madrid itself is the parvenu among the
great capitals of Europe, for it did not at-
tain any marked degree of importance until
the reign of Philip II, in the last half of the
sixteenth century. At that time its climate
was said to be very good, and contemporary
writers speak of it as particularly healthful
because of its charming situation and exten-
sive woods, which harbored all kinds of
game. But as we said in a previous chapter,
the Castilian peasant is averse to trees, and

137

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

consequently the woods were razed. At
present the climate is one of the worst in the
country. When the winds blow from the
south, no matter what the season of the year,
the temperature is uncomfortably warm, and
in summer of course becomes unbearable.
On the other hand, when the breezes blow
from the north, across the snow-capped
peaks of the Guadarrama Mountains, even
in summer time, one is likely to catch cold.
Consequently the inhabitants of Madrid have
a proverb which says: Hasta el cuarenta de
Mayo no te quites el sayo, "Until the for-
tieth of May don't take off your overcoat."
Furthermore, without regard to the direc-
tion that the wind may be coming from, in
winter time there is frequently a difference
of forty degrees between the sunny and the
shady sides of the same street. As Madrid
lies on the top of a plateau rising about six
hundred feet above the vast table-land that
occupies the whole center of the country,
attaining thus a height of 2,100 feet above
the sea, the air is somewhat rarefied; and
with the aforementioned fluctuations in tem-

138

GUADALAJARA: FACADE OF PALACE OF DUQUE DEL INFANTADO.

GUADALAJARA: PORTAL OF PALACE OF DUQUE DEL INFANTADO.

NEW CASTILE

perature the city has developed the addi-
tional proverb to the effect that: El aire de
Madrid es tan sutil, que mata a un hombre y
no apaga a un candil, "The air of Madrid
is so subtle that it will kill a man and not
blow out a candle." Even as recently as the
middle of the eighteenth century a Spanish
author could say that Madrid was the dirt-
iest capital in all Europe. Such cannot be
said for it now. For some years past im-
provements have been going on in accordance
with a comprehensive scheme for beautify-
ing the whole city. Squares and parks have
been laid out; the narrow, crooked streets
have been straightened and broadened; and
many of the old ramshackle buildings have
been torn down. The result is that to-day
Madrid justly takes her rank as one of the
finest capitals in Europe. By the circum-
stances of her history, however, she cannot
be expected to possess many monuments of
antiquity, so that our interest here will be
different from what it has been in the other
cities we have visited.

The Puerta del Sol is the center of all the

139

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

life of the city, and it is said that every good
Madrileno goes there at least once a day.
It is a large open Plaza whence radiate ten
streets which form the great arteries of the
whole city. This Plaza and the Prado at the
other end of the Carrera de San Jeronimo
were celebrated in the seventeenth century as
meeting places for duellists. The Prado like-
wise served as a fashionable promenade un-
til it was eclipsed by the broad Paseo de
Recoletos and its continuation the Paseo de la
Castellana. As we go out the Carrera de San
Jeronimo from the Puerta del Sol we pass the
Palace of the Congress and the square and
statue of Cervantes. Just beyond the Prado
lies the Plaza de la Lealtad wherein is the
monument commemorating the second of
May, when two artillery officers raised a
revolt against the French who, in 1808, tried
to carry off the Spanish princes. Near at
hand is the Exchange, the Spanish Royal
Academy of the Language, and the great
Prado Museum.

This is the Spanish Louvre and a worthy
companion it is to the French collection. It

140

GUADALAJARA: GORGE OF THE HENARES RIVER.

GUADALAJARA; ROAD LOOKING TOWARDS THE STATION.

NEW CASTILE

contains not only a picture gallery, but also
a collection of sculptures and drawings.
The paintings, however, form unquestion-
ably the principal part of the collection, and
among these the most important naturally
enough belong to the Spanish school. There
are about sixty genuine works of Velazquez,
many of them the best that he ever pro-
duced. Of Murillo there are about as many,
but unfortunately none of them is a master-
piece. There are many works, too, belong-
ing to the early Italian School, and espe-
cially to the Venetian — Titian, for example,
being represented by considerably over thirty.
As we said in the opening chapter, the Flem-
ish School can easily be studied in this Mu-
seum, for it possesses more than sixty gen-
uine paintings by Rubens, to say nothing of
the other artists of this school. Studies may
also be made in the later Spanish school and
four rooms are given up to the works of
Goya. The following list may serve as a
hint of what is in store for the visitor. Of
Velazquez, Las Meninas, The Surrender of
Breda, The Drunkards and the Weavers; of

141

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

Raphael, the Holy Family, and Bearing the
Cross; of Titian, The Worship of the God-
dess of Fertility; of Rubens, The Brazen
Serpent and The Judgment of Paris; of
Goya, the sketches as models for tapestries,
and The Popular Festival on the Pradera de
San Isidro, The Execution of Spanish Citi-
zens, and The Combat with the French
Mamelukes, the last two dealing with the
uprising against the French in May, 1808.

Beyond the Museo del Prado lies the Buen
Retiro, or Park of Madrid, the Central Park
of the Spanish capital, although not located
in the center of the city. From the Buen
Retiro we pass through the Plaza de la In-
dependencia and the Puerta de Alcald and
later reach the Palace of the National Li-
brary, and the National Museums. This
building contains the National Library with
over a million volumes and a wealth of man-
uscripts, the National Archives, with about
two hundred thousand original documents,
the Museum of Natural History, with a fine
collection due to the early discoverers in the
Americas, the National Archaeological Mu-

142

GUADALAJARA: PEASANTS OF THE PROVINCE.
Laurent Photograph.

NEW CASTILE

seum, one of the most interesting parts of
which is that devoted to national costumes,
and the Museum of Modern Art. In this
last the chief interest centers in such works as
Pradilla's Joanna the Mad at the Coffin of
her Husband, Philip the Beautiful; Gisbert's
Execution of General Torrijos and his Com-
panions at Malaga in 1831 ; and Casado's
The Bell of Huesca. King Ramiro II of
Aragon had a great deal of trouble with some
of his nobles. One of his followers, the Ab-
bot of San Ponce de Tomeras counseled him
to show these rebellious subjects "a bell
which could be heard throughout the coun-
try." The king accordingly slaughtered
sixteen of the leaders and arranged the heads
in a circle on the floor of a large vaulted room
in the lower part of the University of Huesca.
Above this circle he fastened one of the
heads on a hook attached to a rope hanging
from the ceiling, the whole acting as a clap-
per to the aforesaid bell. He then invited
the remaining nobles to come down and look
at it. This is the scene depicted by the ar-
tist.

143

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

From the Museum we retrace our steps
to the Plaza de Madrid and the Calle de
Alcald. On the left is the Bank of Spain;
on the right the Ministry of War, a building
which was presented by the nation to the
notorious Godoy, called the Prince of the
Peace. Further down the street we come
to the Royal Academy of Pine Arts estab-
lished in 1752 as the Academia de Nobles
Artes de San Fernando for the culture of
painting, sculpture, architecture and music.
Although the Prado, in spite of its many
paintings by Murillo, has none of his master-
pieces, the Academy of Fine Arts can boast
of the possession of three of them: The
Dream of the Roman Knight that led to the
foundation of Santa Maria Maggiore at
Rome, the Interpretation of the Dream, and
Saint Elizabeth of Hungary Healing the
Sick. There is also a Madrazo portrait of
Queen Isabella II at the time of her mar-
riage to Francis of Assis. In 1906 at my re-
quest search was made for the companion
portrait of Francis of Assis, which was dis-
covered in the cellar of the Prado. The

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Academy possesses also two of Goya's most
celebrated paintings. Both are portraits of
a Maja reposing on a divan. The one is
nude, the other is draped.

Passing through the Puerto, del Sol and
the Calle del Arenal we come to the Teatro
Real, or Royal Opera House, which lies be-
tween the Plaza de Isabel II and the Plaza
de Oriente. Across the latter Plaza lies the
Royal Palace, which is one of the finest in
all Europe. To the right are the royal
stables, and to the left the royal armory.
Neither can be equaled anywhere else in
Europe. In the armory the chief romantic
interest centers in the two celebrated swords
of the Cid: Colada and Tizon. Across the
street from the royal stables are the Navy
Department and the Naval Museum, as well
as the Senate. The latter building, in itself
uninteresting, contains a painting of the
Battle of Lepanto by Novicio, and the still
more famous painting of The Surrender of
Granada by Pradilla.

Near the Senate stands the Universidad
Central which, since 1836, has replaced the

145

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

celebrated University of Alcala, founded in
1508 by Cardinal Cisneros. To-day it counts
six thousand six hundred students.

In the older city the chief point of interest
is the Plaza Mayor, laid out with fountains
and playgrounds. It dates back to the be-
ginning of the seventeenth century and
served for all kinds of public ceremonies,
chief among which were tournaments, bull-
fights, executions and autos da fe. On Sun-
day, June 30, 1680, one of these, the greatest
in history, was carried out in the presence
of Charles II and his Queen and the court.
Reports differ as to the exact number of her-
etics involved. Hume * sets it at one hun-
dred and five, whereas Jose del Olmo,2
in an account written the year of the event,
claims there were one hundred and twenty.
In any case, only twenty-one were reduced

1 Hume, M. A. S. : Spain: Its Greatness and Decay (1479-
1788), Cambridge, 1905, p. 304.

2 Olmo, Jose del : Relaci6n Histdrica del A ido General de
Fe que se celebro en Madrid este ano de 1680, Madrid, 1680;
as quoted by J. Martinez Ruiz: Los Hidalgos, Madrid,
1900; p. 47.

146

NEW CASTILE

to ashes. Those who confessed their crimes
were first garroted and then burned, whereas
those who persisted in their errors were
burned alive.

Many years ago a little New England girl,
Alice Gordon, had as playmate a Spanish
girl of her own age, Emilia by name. Time
passed, Emilia and her parents returned to
their own land, and after a few years of childish
correspondence the two friends somehow lost
track of each other.

Years later Alice Gordon was graduated
from Mt. Holyoke and went with her husband
as a missionary to Spain. At Santander her
husband's parishioners were very poor people
and in order to help them she told those
mothers who had to be away from home all
day to send their children to her. She
taught them interesting things, and as they
grew in years systemized her teaching. Other
mothers asked to be allowed to send their
children. Appeal was made to the Mission
Board for a larger allowance so that more
commodious quarters might be procured.
The school grew, more teachers were engaged.

147

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

The founder soon realized that her efforts
for the education of Spanish girls were as im-
portant as her husband's efforts for evangel-
ization. Hence still greater funds and more
teachers were asked for. When the school
was transferred to San Sebastian, a whole
house soon became necessary for its accommo-
dation. The program had meanwhile devel-
oped until it embraced all of our High School
work and was the equivalent of what is re-
quired in Spain for the degree of Bachelor of
Arts. In order that her students might obtain
the degree at the Universidad Central it was
necessary to have the approval of the govern-
ment authorities at Madrid for her program
of studies, and she knew no one whose influ-
ence could help her.

At about this time Mrs. G (Alice

Gordon) received a letter from a friend asking
her to call on a Mr. Azcarate the next time

she happened to be in Y and present

her compliments. Mrs. G- — did so and

was received by the mother of Mr. Azcarate,
who asked her guest to await the return of the
son. In the cool room shaded from the glare

148

TOLEDO: THE ALCAZAR AND THE GORGE OF THE TAGUS.

TOLEDO: BIRDS-EYE VIEW FROM THE TOP OF THE ALCAZAR.

NEW CASTILE

of the hot afternoon, the two ladies quietly
chatted as they sipped their tea. In the half
light, objects gradually became clearer. Sud-
denly Mrs. G 's attention was caught by

an oil painting that seemed to bear a some-
what familiar look. Turning to her hostess
she said: "I do not wish to seem inquisitive
but I should like to know of whom that picture
is a portrait."

"It is the portrait of my son's dead wife,"
said the mother.

On further inquiry Mrs. G learned

that the dead wife was her long lost Spanish
friend, Emilia. It then became the turn of
the mother-in-law to ask questions, and she

learned to her amazement that Mrs. G ,

her visitor, was the little girl, Alice Gordon,
of whom she had heard so much.

Upon the son's return his mother over-
whelmed him with the story, in which he
took no less an interest, for he too had often
heard of the little Yankee girl. When he

learned from Mrs. G that his wife's

girlhood friend had become the staunchest
champion of the education of Spanish woman-

149

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

hood, he offered himself heart and soul in
her service and promised to use his great in-
fluence in Madrid in order to obtain the
recognition of her program. He recom-
mended the transfer of the school to Madrid
and proposed himself to select a proper
site, and to see that all the legal require-
ments were fulfilled for the proper acquisi-
tion of title thereto. — So the door of ed-
ucation was thrown open to Spanish girls
by the hand of a little Spanish maiden.

This is the tale that we heard one morn-
ing from the lips of Alice Gordon Gulick
herself, as we sat in the parlor of an old con-
vent where the school was housed during
its temporary exile in Biarritz.

The girls passed so well in their exami-
nations for the Bachelor's degree that the
professors advised Mrs. Gulick to prepare
a program for the master's degree and send
her girls up for examination. Here again
they passed so well that the professors recom-
mended that the Instituto International para
la Ensenanza de la Mujer prepare the girls
for the full doctoral program.

150

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TOLEDO: THE CATHEDRAL.
Laurent Photograph.

NEW CASTILE

Meanwhile the property had been acquired
in Madrid, the school had been secularized
and thrown open to American girls, and its
effects were being transported to the Capital,
when Mrs. Gulick was taken to England to
recuperate from overexhaustion. She did not
recover her health as had been expected,
however, and died shortly afterward, in spite
of the care lavished upon her by her warm
friend and admirer, Lady Henry Somerset.
The very day that should have celebrated the
formal opening of the school in its new home
was given over to the funeral services of its
founder. So well had she builded that, al-
though she left the work at the very moment
of her triumph, it has steadily continued its
inarch upward and onward, and to-day it
is of growing importance to girls both in
Spain and in the United States. No self-
respecting American should fail to visit the
Institute International in its fine home on
the Calle de Fortuny.

Not far from Madrid is situated one of
the royal summer resorts, Aranjuez, which,
curiously enough, in summer is one of the

151

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

most unhealthy places in the neighborhood
of Madrid. The gardens are laid out some-
what attractively, although in a rather stiff
Dutch style. The chief interest of the place
to-day is centered in the Royal Studs, where
blooded mules and cream-colored Andalu-
sian horses are bred.

Northwest from Madrid lies another royal
palace, the Escorial. At the Battle of Saint
Quentin, which was fought on Saint Lau-
rence's Day, August tenth, 1557, the Spanish
artillery destroyed a church dedicated to
Saint Laurence. In compensation therefor
Philip II promised to build a monastery
church in honor of the saint. As Saint Lau-
rence had been burned alive on a gridiron it
occurred to Philip that it would be well to
symbolize that fact by building his Mon-
astery-Church-Palace in the form of a grid-
iron, the royal apartments serving as the
handle.

While I admit all that is said in favor of
this great monument of Philip II, and al-
though I spent a whole morning in trying to
get a general impression of the interior of

152

TOLEDO : INTERIOR OF SANTA MARIA LA BLANCA.
Laurent Photograph.

NEW CASTILE

the conventual church, there is nevertheless
an indefinable something about the Escorial
which displeases me: the magnificent pile
does not appeal to me. In the early after-
noon I visited the exquisite Panteon de los
Reyes, where are buried most of the kings of
Spain and those of their consorts who bore
successors to the throne. There are but
three niches still unoccupied, and they are
naturally reserved for the Queen Mother
Cristina, and King Alfonso and Queen Vic-
toria.

Later in the afternoon we took a walk to
the so-called Silla del Rey. This consists
of three seats rough hewn out of a rock on
an eminence about two miles from the
Escorial, and from which Philip II is said
to have watched the progress of the work
on the building itself. The walk took us
through a pretty, shady wood, along babbling
brooks, among green pastures, and gave us
many a charming view. The return home in
the cool of the early evening, just as the sun
was setting, was quite as charming as the
walk out had been. The next morning was

153

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

spent in seeing in detail the church and the
palace, with special attention to the rooms
just off the high altar, in which Philip II
lived during the last few weeks before he
died, of the same repulsive disease that
killed Herod. In the afternoon we visited
the High Choir, Sacristy, Chapter Rooms
and Cloisters, all of them parts of the church
and monastery. The delightful walk through
the Royal Gardens to the charming Casita
del Principe must not be neglected. In
visiting this little gem and idling about the
gardens one can spend two or three hours
most pleasantly. One should not leave the
Escorial without a visit to the library of the
monastery, which contains one of the rich-
est collections of manuscripts in all Spain.

A little over twenty miles northeast of
Madrid is the small town of Alcala de He-
nares which, in spite of having less than
fifteen thousand inhabitants, is of consid-
erable historical interest. It was the seat
of a great university which, from 1508,
ranked almost with Salamanca, and in the
late sixteenth century, when both were at

TOLEDO: SAN JUAN DE LOS REYES. CLOISTER GALLERY.

TOLEOO SAN JUAN DE LOS REYES. CLOISTER PATIO.

NEW CASTILE

their highest, surpassed it in mere numbers,
since it mustered twelve thousand students
to the latter's seven thousand.

Here naturally the Estudiantinas or stu-
dent societies flourished in all their glory,
and neither the wildest hazing and cele-
brating of our own students nor the fiercest
rixae of the North-European students of the
Middle Ages (whether among themselves
or between "town" and "gown") are to be
compared with the doings of the Spanish
students of the late sixteenth century. In
their modern form the Estudia?itinas are
entirely harmless and decidedly attractive.
Groups of a dozen or a score of students
associate and practice singing and the play-
ing of the guitar, the bandurria, and the
pandero — a kind of timbrel. They also
adopt some artistic, historic costume. On
the occasion of any great festival, they pa-
rade the streets, playing and singing. But
in order that they may do this in dignified
fashion, they practice nightly, for weeks
previous, marching through the streets in
the wee small hours, between one and three

155

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

in the morning. They are never boisterous,
and no one resents wakening to hear the
sonorous voices harmoniously accompanied
by the soft thrumming of the guitars and the
deeper tones of the bandurrias and the tim-
brels. Needless to add that when they are
in good form, they frequently serenade the
sweetheart of one or another of the group,
and a proud girl she is when that happens.

It was at this university that the great
Complutensian polyglot Bible was made.
The university was transferred to Madrid
in 1836 and the old university buildings were
turned into a school which now teaches less
than three hundred boys. Another fact that
makes Alcala interesting is that it was the
birthplace of Cervantes, and also of Cath-
arine of Aragon, the first wife of Henry VIII
of England.

The first place visited was the former archi-
episcopal palace, which is now used as a
receptacle for part of the Spanish archives
from Simancas, Toledo and other places.
The exterior is beautiful and the interior
shows spacious courts, splendid staircases

156

TOLEDO: PUEFTA DEL SOL.

TOLEDO: PUERTA VISAGRA ANTIGUA.

NEW CASTILE

and exquisite artesonado ceilings. The fin-
est of the latter are those that were left the
natural wood. As they are pine, and are
very old, they have turned almost as black
as oak. The reception room is a gorgeous
bit of Moorish workmanship, in the full
glory of all its colors. The floor alone is in
decay.

From this old gem we went to a church
built in Gothic style, which with the per-
mission of Pope Leo X calls itself La Magis-
tral, although I fail to see the applicability
of the term. Its only title to glory is a fine
marble monument of Cardinal Cisneros by
the Florentine sculptor, Domenico Fancelli,
and the Spaniard, Bartolome Ordonez.

The church of Santa Maria, not far away,
is uninteresting except for the fact that Cer-
vantes was baptized in it on October the
ninth, 1547. The house in which he was born,
and which formerly bore a plate, with an
engraving to that effect, in its fine old portal
had been razed to the ground a year or two
previous to the summer of 1901, and a ram-
shackle theater had taken its place.

157

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

From La Magistral we walked down the
Calle Mayor to the Plaza Mayor. This
street is lined on both sides by low-ceiled
colonnades, a double Rue de Rivoli in little.

A short distance beyond the Plaza Mayor
we came to the buildings of the former uni-
versity. As we approached it from the side,
we entered without paying attention to the
facade, and asked the porter to take us im-
mediately to the Patio Trilingue, the finest
of the three patios of the institution, and off
from which opens the Paraninfo, or hall in
which the degrees were conferred. The
President's chair is still intact and so is
most of the wall in its neighborhood. With
the exception of the parts just mentioned
and the ceiling, all the rest of the hall is a
restoration. As we left the building we had
an opportunity to examine the splendid
facade, which was finished in 1583 and is
the work of Pedro Gumiel and Rodrigo Gil
de Hontafion.

It is in Alcala that we got our first glimpse
of primitive threshing. We had seen it as
we entered the town and saw it again as we

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left, after our visit to the university. Large
fields are well paved with cobblestones.
Over these the grain is strewn; and over the
grain huge rollers and drags are driven back
and forth. Then with pitchforks the men
begin to toss the straw, starting on the
windward side, shaking it well as they go,
so that the grain falls out on the stones,
and gradually working the straw across the
field in front of them until they reach the
other side. Then the grain is swept to-
gether into piles and sifted through a hand
sieve.

Just before reaching the station we bought
a box of creamed and burnt almonds, for
which the town is celebrated. On the whole,
Alcala struck us as being about the cleanest
arid most attractive small town that we had
yet seen in Spain.

From Alcala a ride of three-quarters of an
hour by train took us to the station of Gua-
dalajara. Here a stage met us and we drove
to the town itself, which lies on the top of
a hill about a mile and a quarter from the
station. Leaving the stage in the center of

159

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the town, we fell in with a good-natured
policeman who was going to report for duty
but still had a few minutes to spare, which
he offered to spend in piloting us about the
town. He was not over intelligent, but his
courtesy was boundless, and, wonder of
wonders! he did not act as though he either
expected or wished a tip.

The chief interest of the town to me lay in
the fact that it was captured from the Moors
by Minaya Alvar Fanez, the famous com-
panion-in-arms of the Cid. The lion of the
town, architecturally, is the palace of the
Duque del Infantado, built in 1461 and the
years following, with a long facade showing
a capricious and yet graceful union of the
Gothic and Mudejar styles. The Patio and
the Hall of Genealogies possess many fine
points and are well worth careful attention.
From this palace we decided to stroll leisurely
back to the railroad station; and in spite of
a blistering sun the trip was made tolerable
by a fine, fresh breeze. The gorge of the
Henares River to the right of the road, just
before we reached the station, is most pic-

160

ALCALA DE HENARES: THRESHING FLOOR.

tdH

CORDOBA: MOORISH BRIDGE.

NEW CASTILE

turesque, as is also the vista down the last
stretch of the road.

The most important excursion to make
from Madrid is the one to Toledo. After
leaving the station we climbed the steep hill
to the bridge across the jagged gulch of the
Tagus, which runs about the town for two
thirds of its circumference. At a point
slightly upstream from the bridge, which is
called the Puente de Alcantara, one has an
impressive view of the Tagus and of the
city, which towers above one and culminates
in the colossal Alcazar, or Palace of the
King.

After feasting our eyes on the scene
spread out before us, we went through the
gate, climbed the old Moorish fortification
walls, passed the house in which Cervantes
lived and which is now used as a stable, and
entered the Plaza de Zocodover, the pret-
tiest plaza in Toledo and made famous by
Cervantes in his Novelas Exemplares. It is
in Toledo that Lope de Vega lived for sev-
eral years and wrote many of his plays, the
scenes of some of which, such as Por la

161

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

Puente, Juana, and La Vida y Muerte del
Hey Bamba, are laid here.

Our first visit was to the Alcazar, which
occupies the highest point of the city and is,
so to speak, its Acropolis. The history of
the palace has been extremely varied. At
one time the Cid resided here with the title
of Alcaide, "Keeper of the Castle." The
view from the terrace in front of the Alcazar
is superb, and one easily realizes that the
early Romans had more than strategic rea-
sons for setting here their Castellum. The
terrace faces toward the north. From it we
entered the magnificent patio surrounded by
double arcades of Corinthian columns. On
the opposite side of the court is an elaborate
marble staircase (width about forty feet),
which branches out from the landing and
rises to the next floor by sections to the right
and left. These smaller sections are half
the width of the main stairway, and the steps
are each made of a single slab of marble.
Up these we went in spite of their ruined con-
dition, and from the second floor had a
charming bird's-eye view of the whole city

162

NEW CASTILE

spread out before and below us to the

south.

Our attention was next turned to the
cathedral. An old saying groups the chief
cathedrals of Spain together as Toledo la
rica, Salamanca la fuerte, Leon la bella,
Oviedo la sacra, e Sevilla la grande. The
splendid approach so often found to large
European cathedrals is sadly lacking here.
No adequate conception of the exterior of the
edifice can be obtained, as so many smaller
buildings have been erected close to it.

Miss Hannah Lynch in her recent book
on Toledo has given a very good impres-
sionistic description of this cathedral, and
from it I quote the following passage:

"The monument which dominates Toledo,
which is not only the most prominent feature
in a town whose every feature is so marked
and significant, so unlike all the traveled eye
is most familiar with, but is the centre of its
changes and vicissitudes, of its triumphs and
humiliations, is the Cathedral. Writing of
the high terrace on which it stands, M. Mau-
rice Barres says: 'c'etait toujours le meme

163

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

sublime qui jamais ne rassasie les ames, car
en meme temps qu'elles s'en remplissent
il les dilate a l'infini.' Who is to seize and
repress, with any adequacy or even coher-
ence, the first swift and stupefying impres-
sion of this superb edifice ? There are many
things in this world more beautiful — no
one, for instance, would dream of speaking
of it in the same breath as the Parthenon —
but nothing more sumptuous; nothing in all
the treasures of Spain to match its magnifi-
cence. It is simpler and more majestic than
that of Burgos, and before heeding the in-
stinct of examination or noting its mass of
detail, the first imperious command is to
yield in charmed surrender to its spirit.
We are silenced and held by the general ef-
fect long before we come to admire the ex-
quisite sculpture of Berruguete and of Philip
of Burgundy, and the splendours of chapels
and treasury. And should time be short for
detailed inspection, it is this general effect of
immense naves, of a forest of columns and
of jewelled windows that we carry away,
feeling too small amidst such greatness of

164

CORDOBA: STREET SCENE AND CHARACTERISTIC TYPES.
Gar-ton Photograph.

NEW CASTILE

form and incomparable loveliness of lights
for the mere expression of admiration. At
sunset, should you have the fortune to be
alone among its pillars and stained glass
windows, you will find nothing on earth to
compare with the mysterious eloquence of
its silence; you will feel it a place not for
prayer but for a salutary conception of man's
insignificance.

"Castillian genius has nowhere imprinted
a haughtier effigy of its invincible pride and
fanaticism, insusceptible to the humiliations
of decay and defeat, impervious to the en-
croachments of progress and enlightenment.
It is the vast monumental note of Spanish
character and Spanish history. It tells the
eternal tale of ecclesiastical domination and
triumph, and is the fitting home of por-
traits of warlike cardinals and armoured
bishops, of princes of the Church who wore
the purple and ruled with the sword. It is
a superb and majestic harmony of mar-
vellous stone work and painted glass."

From the cathedral we entered the fine
Gothic cloisters which were begun in 1389.

165

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

The side walls are decorated with frescoes
representing scenes in the lives of several of
the saints.

After leaving the cathedral we went to the
Sinagoga del Trdnsito, which was built about
1360 at the expense of a rich Jew, Samuel
Levi, who was the treasurer of Peter the
Cruel. Upon the expulsion of the Jews the
"Catholic Kings" placed the building in the
care of the Order of Calatrava. It is a
beautiful little synagogue, without aisles, and
has an open ceiling of cedar ornamented
with ivory.

The church of Santa Maria la Blanca, is
a building of the Mudejar style, which was
originally a synagogue and was probably
built as early as the thirteenth century. It
has had a very vicissitudinous history and
is now under the Commission of Public
Monuments, which has restored its pris-
tine beauty.

Toledo steel is world-renowned, and one
should not fail to visit the salesroom of the
factory where the famous blades are made.
I am now prepared to believe any story

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about those blades. They are beautiful in
their workmanship and etching, and wonder-
ful in their temper. A sword for service can
be bent at an angle of more than ninety de-
grees, and a long sword can be bent almost
point to hilt. Dress swords can be curled
up like a watch spring and put inside of a
case. They have satin-lined cases with
creases in them in which they curl the blade
up to a perfect figure six for presentation as
gifts. I am telling you only what I have seen
them do: take a blade down from a rack,
curl it up in the case, take it out afterwards
and have it spring back into its original
straight position without the suspicion of a
bend. Of course the handsomest blades have
the etching embellished with that peculiar
Toledo work which consists of hammering
gold thread into the steel. Their poniards
are made of such finely tempered steel that
you can drive the point through a cent with-
out leaving the slightest sign on the point
or blade. I saw them do it with a blade
picked up at random, and then I picked out
a different poniard and had it driven through

167

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

a cent from my pocket. As the blade was
in just as good condition afterward as be-
fore, I bought it.

The only other great Gothic work in the
city, besides the cathedral, is the conventual
church of San Juan de los Reyes. As it is
almost entirely a restoration, and much of
it is used as a school of fine arts, it has little
of interest except its fine cloisters, which
have recently been restored, but in such a
way as not to destroy the good old effect.

From here we crossed the Tagus by the
monumental Puente de San Martin, which
was built in 1212, renovated in 1390, and
stands to-day as it was then left.

Just below the bridge, on the city side of
the river, is the so-called Bano de la Cava.
Here, according to the legend, Florinda,
surnamed La Cava, the daughter of Count
Julian, was bathing when Roderick saw her
charms from the Alcazar. The subsequent
story is sad in the extreme, for the outraged
father summoned the Moors to help him
avenge his wrong, and Roderick was slain
in 711. The legend is beautifully treated

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NEW CASTILE

in Southey's poem Roderick, the Last 0} the
Goths.

From the Puente de San Martin we walked
almost around the city, along the heights
on the opposite bank of the Tagus. Not all
of the time were we on the heights, however,
for occasionally the road led down into
deep valleys from which nothing could be
seen, but which we could imagine as being
the very valleys wherein Lope de Vega, in
his short Novelas, had caused some of his
heroines to wander. Although the ground
was rugged and almost devoid of trees, we
enjoyed the walk very much, and obtained
many fine glimpses and views of the city
and the romantic gorge. After reentering the
city by the bridge of Alcantara we walked
around its edge on the walls built by King
Bamba in 673, until we reached the Puerta
del Sol, built, somewhere near 1100, in the
Mudejar style, with horseshoe arches and
two towers. Thence we proceeded to the
Puerta Visagra Antigua, of Moorish work-
manship, erected about 1126, and the finest
gateway in the outer wall.

1G9

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

After all this strenuous sightseeing one
should return to the Plaza de Zocodover, and
at some one of the good cafes sit down and
refresh oneself. Although it is possible to
get around and see these things in one day,
the impressions are too confusing. One
should stay at least a week, and give them
a chance to fasten themselves properly upon
one's mind. Furthermore, the points in-
dicated are only the most important, and
there still remain a host of others that should
be visited.

170

CORDOBA: PATIO DE LOS NARANJOS OF THE MOSQUE.

CORDOBA: CITY GATE AND MOSQUE FROM THE BRIDGE OVER THE

GUADALQUIVIR.

ANDALUCIA

CORDOBA: NATIVE GIRLS AT THE FOUNTAIN IN THE PATIO DE LOS

NARANJOS OF THE MOSQUE.

Garzon Photograph.

ANDALUCIA

FROM Toledo, which is the last city we
visited in New Castile, we took the
eight-twenty train in the evening for a
disagreeable all-night ride to the Land of the
Orange Blossom. After a fifteen-hour trip,
with three changes, all of which were made
on time (the Spanish railroad system is
much maligned by people who say that the
trains are never on time), we reached Cor-
doba. Even if we had made the trip by day-
light there would have been but little to see
except the bare, sunbaked plains of La
Mancha, made famous by Cervantes' im-
mortal novel.

Cordoba, besides being the birthplace of
Seneca and Lucan, as mentioned in our first
chapter, can also boast that it possessed
Averroes, the famous translator and philos-
opher, and that it was the baptismal place of

173

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

the Gran Capitdn, Gonsalvo de Cordoba, the
conqueror of Naples in 1496. Furthermore,
under the Arabs and especially under the
dynasty of the Omayyades from 756 to 1031,
it became one of the wealthiest and most
cultured cities of Europe, rising to the dig-
nity of capital of the Caliphate of Cordoba
and metropolis of all Moorish Spain. It
was during this period that the city was re-
sorted to by students of Arabic learning from
all over the world. After its separation as a
dependency of the Caliphate of Damascus
it rose to a point of such importance in Mo-
hammedanism that its mosque, known as the
Ceca, rivalled Mecca, and became known, in
fact, as the Western Mecca. The place is
now but a shadow of its former self, in spite
of the fact that our guide assured us with
the utmost seriousness that the city was a
great railroad center "being crossed by four
railroad lines [there are really but two, and
they pass through] with a daily departure
and arrival of eighty trains." Cordoba has
been noted for its silver filigree work and its
fine leather ever since the days of the Moors.

174

CORDOEA: PATIO OF THE CASINO DE LA AMISTAD.

CORDOBA- SUMMER HOUSE OF THE MARQUES DE LA VEGA DE

ARMIJO.

ANDALUCIA

Our old English word for shoemaker, "cord-
wainer," is derived from the adjective "Cor-
dovan." The silver filigree work can still
be obtained there, but Cordovan leather has
passed over to Africa.

Our first visit was naturally to the famous
Mezquita or Mosque, now called the Ca-
thedral. This creation was a perfect gem.
Such a "forest of columns" we had never
seen anywhere else. The Christians spoiled
it when they built their immense chapel in
the center of it. Fortunately the place is so
enormous that from many points the Chris-
tian botch is not visible. In 1526 Charles V,
who had himself given the necessary au-
thority for the change, visited the cathedral
and remarked to the Chapter: "You have
built what you or others might have built
anywhere, but you have destroyed something
that was unique in the world." No one
knows how many columns were destroyed to
make room for the chapel, but there still
remain more than eight hundred and fifty,
no two of them being of the same material,
nor adorned with the same capital. The in-

175

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

terior consists of nineteen aisles running
from front to altar (all of equal width except
the one directly in front of the Mihrab, and
the two which immediately flank it, one on
each side), and thirty-five aisles running
across from side to side.

Many of the horseshoe arches, and much
of the Mosaic work and tracery had been
walled up or plastered over. The fine,
heavily carved, larchwood ceiling, which was
once the crowning glory of the place, had
been nearly all taken down. The original
rich mosaic floor had been covered with a
white marble floor ten or twelve inches above
the old one, which we were allowed to see
by removing a slab from the foot of one of
the pillars. Our guide calmly told us that
all this ruin had been done by the Arabs
themselves in order to hide from the Chris-
tians the glories of the mosque, and that they
did it when they saw they could no longer
hold the city against the Christians. You
may judge for yourselves whether or not it
was likely that the Moors, during so bitter a
siege as was that of Cordoba, had even the

17G

SEVILLA: CATHEDRAL, AND TOWER CALLED LA GIRALDA.
Laurent Photograph.

ANDALUCIA

time or material (to say nothing of the
thought) to wall up two or three hundred
horseshoe arches, plaster up several thou-
sand feet of azulejos and tracery, and lay a
new marble floor over 161,500 square feet of
ground.

The great Patio de los Naranjos of this
cathedral has wide gates on its north, west,
and east sides. Here, too, playing under the
palms and orange trees, are fountains for the
ablutions. It is an ideal place for quiet, rest-
ful meditation.

From the cathedral we went to the Roman-
Moorish bridge which is really a Moorish
bridge standing on Roman foundations. It
crosses the Guadalquivir on sixteen arches
and is seven hundred and thirty feet long.
The bridge itself is worth seeing and from
it we get a good general view of the mosque.
A short distance from the bridge and the
cathedral is the Museum, facing upon the
Plaza del Potro in the center of which there
stands a fountain with the figure of a colt.
This Plaza has been celebrated by Cervan-
tes as one of the "tough" centers of Spain.

177

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

From here we went to visit the Casino de la
Amistad, a non-political club, and one of the
best appointed places of the kind I have ever
seen. Among other advantages, it possesses
a very beautiful ballroom and theater.

In the afternoon we took a delightful drive
to a mountain some distance from Cordoba,
where the Marques de la Vega de Armijo
has a charming country house, set in the
midst of most beautiful gardens. The
Marques is very liberal in permitting vis-
itors to enjoy the place, and expects his gar-
dener to see that they carry away with them
as many flowers as they can conveniently
manage; and he himself has a bright smile
and a cheery word for anyone whom he
meets walking in the gardens. The drive
home in the cool of the evening was a fitting
close to so charming a day.

The next day, a pleasant four-hour trip
down the valley of the Guadalquivir took us
to Sevilla. One should plan to be in Sevilla
during Holy Week and during the Feria, the
latter of which is from April eighteenth to
the twentieth. We arrived on Good Friday

178

Painting by Murillo in the Cathedral at Sevilla.

VISION OF ST. ANTHONY OF PADUA.
Photographer not known.

ANDALUCIA

and went to the cathedral to hear the
Miserere. The service was very impressive
and we were carried away with the grandeur
of the music, now swelling in majestic tones,
now dying away in a plaintive wail in the
dimly lighted aisles and darkest recesses of
the grand old cathedral. I say grand old
cathedral advisedly, for you will remember
that the old proverb calls this Sevilla la
grande. The marvellously sweet-toned organ
is celebrated all over Europe. In 1401 the
Chapter determined to build a new cathedral
"on so magnificent a scale that coming ages
will proclaim us mad to have undertaken
it." It was begun in 1402 and practically
finished in the incredibly short space of one
hundred and four years; and the desire of
the Chapter has been amply fulfilled. It is
useless to attempt to describe it, and im-
possible to take it all in appreciatively in a
single visit. One should return to it again
and again — first trying to get a general im-
pression of the whole, at other times exam-
ining in detail this or that chapel, and then
at last trying to correlate all these separate

179

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

impressions. Among so many marvels that
fairly daze one, particular attention should
be paid, perhaps, to the Capilla Mayor, the
Capilla Real, the Sacristia de los Cdlices, the
Old and New Chapter Halls, and the Ca-
pilla del Bautisterio, which contains one of
Murillo's most exquisite masterpieces, Saint
Anthony of Padua's Vision of the Holy
Child. Aside from its wonderfully fine color-
ing and its general worth as a masterpiece,
the painting is of interest to Americans from
the fact that the figure of the saint was, in
November, 1874, cut out of the canvas and
discovered in New York in the following
February. No one has yet satisfactorily ex-
plained how this piece of vandalism could
have been accomplished, since the chapel is
always kept locked except when a priest is
officiating therein.

In the Capilla Real among other things of
interest is a painting of Murillo little known,
but deserving of a better fate: a beautiful
and expressive Mater Dolorosa. There is
also a fine Crucifixion by Van Dyck which,
for a moment, we thought we were to be the

180

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ANDALUCIA

last persons to see. The boy who was show-
ing us through the chapel had stuck a lighted
taper into the end of a long, heavy pole, and
by means of the light thus furnished was
pointing out to us the various details of the
picture. As he turned to point out some-
thing else he set down the pole and allowed
the lighted taper to lean up against the
painting.

Beside the cathedral, and within the walls
of its sacristy and the Colombine Library,
which is under its jurisdiction, lies the Patio
de los Naranjos. The description of such a
garden is impossible. There is nothing
particularly striking about it. It is large,
and entirely hemmed in by the cathedral and
its dependencies and by a series of chapels
on the street side; and over the whole, in the
corner between the cathedral and the Colom-
bine Library, rises the majestic Giralda;
but all that does not explain one's sensation
as one stands there in the shadow of the
orange trees, whose all-pervading perfume
intoxicates the senses. Nor should one fail
to examine, in all its exquisite detail, the

181

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

oldest and most graceful building in the
whole city, and its most conspicuous land-
mark. I mean the old Moorish prayer
tower which I mentioned a moment ago,
the Giralda.

During Holy Week the Cojradias, or re-
ligious brotherhoods, are very much in evi-
dence. Sevilla is the chief center of these
religious organizations, and there are said
to be no less than forty-five of them there.
Usually not over twenty of them parade in
any given year, because of the enormous ex-
pense attaching thereto. Saturday afternoon
we spent most of our time in the Plaza de la
Constitution. Evening came on and the
procession of cojradias continued to pass
slowly and majestically before us, bearing
with them their floats of individual figures or
groups of Christ, the Virgin, the Holy Fam-
ily, or special saints. Some of the figures and
faces of Christ and the Virgin are really fine
pieces of sculptural art. Most of them are
exquisitely dressed in costly brocades and
satins, with a profusion of the finest laces
and a wealth of precious stones. The last

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float passed before us at half-past ten in the
evening.

The next day in the afternoon we went out
to a military concert in the beautiful park of
Maria Luisa, so called because the Infanta
Maria Luisa gave it to the city out of a large
private estate that she had there. On our
way back we walked through the Paseo de
las Delicias, which skirts the Guadalquivir
and corresponds mutatis mutandis with New
York's Riverside Drive. Then we passed the
Palacio de Santelmo, with its lovely gardens.
The facade of the palace has a beautiful,
high, baroque portal. The palace faces the
triangular park which is crossed from its
base in front of the palace, to its apex on the
river bank, by the broad Paseo de Cristina.
Through this we walked, and on emerging
from the park found ourselves face to face
with the Torre del Oro. This was originally
one of the towers of the Moorish Alcazar;
it is now the headquarters of the Captain of
the Port.

We next visited the Royal Palace, the
Alcazar. Next to the Alhambra this is the

183

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most important royal palace perpetuating the
art of the Moors. From the palace we go to
the Casa Lonja. Architecturally the build-
ing is well worth visiting, but its chief interest
lies in its collection of manuscripts, which is
absolutely unique. They are the reports of
Spain's representatives in the New World,
and the only duplicates which can be found
anywhere for any of them are the result of
the rare cases when reports were made in
duplicate.

On Saturday, April thirteenth, in the year
1901, the Cigarreras, or cigarette girls, from
the national tobacco factory, had their an-
nual Kermess. It was a very interesting af-
fair, the girls appearing in all their finery
and performing some of the characteristic-
ally Spanish dances. In the evening we
went to the Paseo de Cristina and the little
triangular park through which it passes.
Aloft the Paseo was a perfect bower of lan-
terns, arranged in long rows showing the
colors of the Spanish flag. The trees were
also hung with a profusion of lanterns; and
the broad lawns were fairly ablaze with

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little lights which proved, on closer inspec-
tion, to be small pots of oil set into the sod.
The effect was miraculous! From the river
front we viewed the fireworks which had been
set up on the opposite bank.

One afternoon we took a walk out to the
fields where the bulls were kept, as it is con-
sidered quite necessary to see the condition
of the animals that are to face the red cape
on the morrow. We were told it was not far,
but distance must be a relative matter, for
we walked and walked and walked over the
hot dusty road before we reached the field,
and then the bulls were too far away for us
to get a good view of them. They were feed-
ing as good-naturedly as the meekest ani-
mals, with their cowboys near them.

On the way home we had several interest-
ing experiences that kept our nerves fairly
excited. First we saw down the road a
lot of horned creatures coming our way.
Whether they were bulls or cows made little
difference to the ladies in our party who did
not relish the idea of facing and passing
them on the highway. It turned out to be a

185

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

herd of cows with a few bulls. The herds-
men on horseback, seeing the dismay of the
ladies, rode up and placed themselves be-
tween them and the herd.

We had scarcely caught our breath again
when we saw coming toward us a drove of
horses. Now horses are by no means as
dangerous as bulls, but just the same a
drove of wild young ponies is apt to make
things lively. They took up the whole
road and came at no small pace, so that
we were obliged to scamper quickly to
the bushes at the side of the road. They
were returning from the horse fair at Se-
villa.

The horses passed, we continued our
journey: but our experiences were not yet
over. We next encountered a man on a
donkey, followed by a cow. Just before
they reached us, the cow started to run back
in the direction from which she had come.
As she turned I remarked that she had just
dropped a calf. Such proved to be the case,
and the calf was tucked away on the don-
key's back and covered with a warm blanket.

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The tiny thing was still wet. The man put
it on the ground so that the cow might see
where it was. On her way back the cow evi-
dently took it into her head that one of the
ladies of our party was to blame for her
having lost sight of her calf, and rushed
straight at her with head down and glaring
eyes. To make matters worse the woman
took to her heels; but at a warning shout
stood still. A cry from the man beside the
calf drew the cow's attention in the right
direction, and she was able to satisfy her-
self that her offspring was safe.

At twelve-thirty in the morning of a day
that was to see a great bullfight, I went
to the Plaza de Toros to see the bulls
brought in. This act is known as the
apartado or encierro, the separation or the
shutting-in. The stockade had already been
erected across the Paseo de Marina so that
the bulls could not escape as they were led
from the river bank to the bull ring. I went
in behind the ring to the corral and there
waited. A couple of Spaniards, amateurs
of bull-baiting, took me in hand and ex-

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plained the whole process to me. The bulls
were brought in from pasture by herding them
up with half a dozen trained oxen, each of
which wore a large bell suspended by a broad
strap about his neck. The oxen entered the
corral and the bulls naturally followed their
example. As they came in, the corral was
lighted from the platform where we stood
by enormous pitch torches. Over the en-
trance stood two men, one with a long wooden
pike and the other with two ropes that con-
trolled the door. When all the animals were
in, the oxen, obeying commands given by
these two men, gradually sauntered over
toward the door. If a bull came with the
ox the door was closed and he was prodded
with the pike until he went away. Then the
door was opened and the nearest ox slipped
out. When they had all gone the torches
were extinguished. Previous to the entrance
of the animals half a dozen men had dropped
down to the corral and placed themselves
behind heavy wooden partitions, parallel to
the four walls and not far enough out to al-
low a bull to enter behind them. These men

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ANDALUCIA

now set up an infernal din, hammering on
the partitions with sticks and yelling like
wild Indians. In the semi-darkness a gate
was opened and a faint light shone through
it. Whenever a bull approached one of the
partitions he was vigorously prodded with
a long pole, often being thrown down by it.
A couple of bulls finally went out through
the little door, which was immediately closed
behind them. The passageway into which
they entered led to a couple of pens, and
every few steps the way was closed as they
passed. Finally they entered the pens that
were meant for them and the door was
banged to behind them. This was repeated
until all were confined. They were not to
leave these pens until the next afternoon and
then by a passageway whose only exit was
in the bull ring itself. The bulls that were
being inclosed on this particular occasion
were those of Miura, which are so fierce that
they are known as mata-toreros, killers of
bullfighters. One of them became so en-
raged in the corral that he charged full at
another bull. For a moment it looked as

189

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

though we were going to have an impromptu
bullfight all to ourselves.

The jeria or annual fair is unique. All
Sevillian society spends the three days in
the open. The fair grounds, which lie just
outside the city, are equipped with numerous
platforms and tents, and here all Sevilla re-
ceives its friends in gala costume and all the
young society buds outdo themselves in the
graceful Spanish dances. It is a very lively,
attractive scene and must be witnessed to be
appreciated.

Other points of interest in Sevilla are the
so-called house of Murillo, the University,
the so-called house of Pilate, the Plaza de
San Fernando, with its palms and orange
trees, the City Hall, the Plaza de la Vic-
toria, the Alameda de Hercules, and the Calle
de las Sierpes, wherein the whole life of the
city centers and where no horses and car-
riages are allowed. Just across the river is
the interesting suburb of Triana, inhabited
mostly by gypsies. Five miles away lies the
old Roman city of Italica, famous as the
birthplace of three Roman emperors, Trajan,

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SEVILLA: PARK OF MARIA LUISA.

SEVILLA: PATIO OF THE CASA DE PILATOS.

ANDALUCIA

Hadrian and Theodosius. A good many
Roman remains are still to be seen, and here,
in 1898, the President of the Hispanic So-
ciety of America carried on a series of suc-
cessful excavations, some of the results of
which are now on exhibition in the Society's
Museum in New York City.

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AFTER the usual light breakfast in our
hotel at Sevilla, we went to the Es-
tacion de Cadiz, expecting to take the
nine o'clock train for Malaga, and to reach
the latter point at eighteen-sixteen. After we
had taken our seats in the train, the station
master called our attention to a special that
was standing on the next track. It was to
leave Sevilla at nine-forty-five and would go
through to Malaga without change, arriving
at seventeen-fifteen. Of course we made the
change to the special.

In spite of the fact that the trip took the
whole day we found it far from tiresome,
since we were riding through one of the
garden spots of the whole country, and
enjoyed a constant succession of picturesque
views. About twenty miles beyond Sevilla
we reached the town of Utrera, whose chief

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interests nowadays are cattle breeding and
agriculture. Such was not exactly the case
during the period of the Frontier Wars, be-
tween the Christians and the Moors, for at
that time so frequently did criminals take
refuge in Utrera that there arose the pro-
verbial phrase: Mdtale y vete a Utrera, "Kill
him, and go to Utrera." In the church of
Santiago they claim to possess one of the
thirty pieces of silver that were paid to
Judas Iscariot for the betrayal of Christ.
Not long after leaving Utrera we came to
Marchena, an old town which is still partly
surrounded by walls that are gradually
falling into decay, and which possesses one
of the many palaces of the Duke of Arcos.
Twenty miles beyond this town we passed
Osuna, where a university was founded in
1548 and which, since 1562, has been the
seat of the Dukes of Osuna. One of the
ancestors of the Osuna family, the cele-
brated Marques de Santillana, collected a
large library of manuscripts. In succeeding
generations this library was increased until
it became one of the richest private collec-

19G

MALAGA: VIEW LOOKING EAST FROM BEACH OF CAFE HERNAN
CORTES: JUST TO LEFT OF THE COAST SCENE BELOW.

MALAGA: MEDITERRANEAN COAST; VIEW LOOKING EAST FROM THE
BEACH OF THE CAFE HERNAN CORTES.

GRANADA

tions in the world, and for many years it was
housed at Osuna. Recently the whole col-
lection passed into the possession of the
National Library at Madrid. A few miles
beyond Osuna we reached La Roda, a rail-
road junction, soon after passing which, we
saw on our right a large salt lake, over the
surface of which, in the dry season, a crust
forms which looks like a sheet of ice. At
Bobadilla, which is the main junction of all
the railroads leading to Cordoba, Sevilla,
Gibraltar, Malaga, and Granada, we had
time for a very comfortable meal, which was
well cooked and well served. About ten
miles beyond Bobadilla, the Guadalhorce
cuts through the coast range in a wild, deep
cation called the Hoyo. The train passes
through eleven tunnels and the finest view
of the gorge is to be had between the sixth
and seventh. The accompanying photo-
graphs were taken on two different trips,
with the train going at full speed.

On arrival at Malaga, being unencum-
bered by baggage (which was coming by
the next train), we took a horse car into

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RAMBLES IN SPAIN

town and walked a couple of blocks to the
hotel. The dining room was very attractive,
the food was good, but the service was
abominable! Malaga is celebrated, among
other things, for a special kind of fish known
as boquerones, about the size of a sardine,
and without exception the most delicious
small fish I have ever eaten. They are
served in rather odd fashion, almost always
appearing on the table in a fan-shaped mass
of six or eight fish all fastened together by
the tails.

After a good night's rest we spent the
morning seeing the bay of Malaga, the
wharves and the cathedral, which is a light,
airy building, constructed within and with-
out of white limestone. It is here that the
celebrated poet Juan del Encina was su-
perior archdeacon, and his original composi-
tions are still preserved in the archives.

After lunch we visited the beautiful little
British cemetery, charmingly situated on a
sharp incline which leads down to the Medi-
terranean, with fine views of shore and sea,
and under the protection of the guns of the

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British men-of-war, if need be. Previous
to the laying out of this cemetery in 1830,
Protestants were simply buried in the sand,
along the shore. It is almost needless to add
that many a body was unearthed by the
constant lapping of the waves. Now their
rest is more secure, and all Protestants who
die in Malaga, whether British, Spanish or
others, are assured a decent burial.

From the British cemetery we took a car
out to the suburb of Caleta, where we had
some coffee in the Cafe Hernan Cortes.
This is a delightfully situated house, whose
gardens, brilliant with flowers and well
shaded with graceful palms, stretch out to
the very waters of the sea. From the strand
one has a beautiful view of some ruins on a
mountain top near by, and another of a
promontory jutting out into the Mediter-
ranean. On a ride from this cafe out along
the coast to the fishing hamlet of Palo one is
continually surprised and charmed by the
fine scenery that meets one's gaze.

On our return to the city we walked
through the spacious Paseo de la Alameda,

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RAMBLES IN SPAIN

with its statue of the Marques de Larios at
one end, and at the other its celebrated
Fuente de Neptunoy made in Genoa in 1560.
Then we went to the Mercado, or market
place, which was once a Moorish wharf, but
which now lies high and dry at some dis-
tance from the present wharves. The only
part of the building which belongs to the
original is the main entrance formed of
horseshoe arches, and ornamented with two
shields and the motto of the Nasrides:
"There is no conqueror but God." The
Nasrides were the second of the great Moor-
ish dynasties in Spain, and, from the death
of Ibn Hud in 1238, reigned for nearly two
and a half centuries.

In passing we should mention the Plaza
de la Constitution, with an allegorical foun-
tain, and the Plaza de Riego, in whose at-
tractive grounds is a monument to General
Jose Maria Torrijos and his forty-nine fol-
lowers who were shot in Malaga on Decem-
ber eleventh, 1831, because of their revolt
in favor of the constitution. This is the
subject of the painting by Gisbert in the

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Museum of Modern Art at Madrid. Not
far away is the Plaza de la Victoria, so called
from a little church near one of its corners,
known as El Cristo de la Victoria. It was
here that the tent of Ferdinand the Catholic
was set up during the siege of the place in
1487.

The only other important points of in-
terest in the city are the old Moorish settle-
ment and the citadel, respectively called the
Alcazaba (which was probably the earliest
Phoenician settlement in Spain) and the
Gibralfaro.

After a short, pleasant walk to the sta-
tion, which lies across the river, we took the
eight-fifty-five train for Granada. The first
part of the journey lay through the deep gorge
of the Guadalhorce and its wild, precipitous
Hoyo, or Chorro as it is likewise called, as far
as Bobadilla. Here the road turned eastward
and in a very few minutes we came upon
another beautiful stretch of the Guadalhorce.
Ahead of us in the distance rose the romantic
peak known as the Pena de los Enamorados,
or Lovers' Crag, which dominated the horizon

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until we reached Archidona, whence the view
of the crag was at its best. The legend
concerning this mountain is, that a Spanish
Caballero and a Moorish maiden, locked in
each other's embrace, threw themselves from
its top rather than fall into the hands of those
who were hunting them down. The legend
has been made known to English readers by
Southey's beautiful poem Laila and Manuel.

Not many miles beyond Archidona we
came to the quaintly situated town of Loja
which was considered one of the two keys
to Granada, the other being Alhama, ly-
ing about twelve and one-half miles away.
From the railroad station we caught glimpses
of the ruins of a Moorish castle and the town
walls. The "Catholic Kings" in 1488 took
the town. Alhama had fallen six years
previous and its loss was sung in a contem-
porary ballad (Ay de mi Alhama) which
Byron has made familiar to English readers.

Six miles before we reached Granada we
came to Atarfe, a railroad station of no in-
terest except for the fact that three miles
southwest of it lies the village of Santa Fe

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which, on two memorable occasions, held
the attention of all Christendom. It was
here that the surrender of Granada was
agreed upon and the formal document signed
on November twenty-fifth, 1491; and here,
on the seventeenth of April, 1492, the momen-
tous contract authorizing Columbus to start
upon his voyage of exploration and dis-
covery was also signed.

At eighteen-twenty-four, and exactly on time,
the train pulled into Granada, the capital of
the ancient Moorish kingdom and the pres-
ent province of the same name. Granada's
history is romantic from the very beginning.
It reached its period of greatest glory under
the Dynasty of the Nasrides, who ruled
during the two hundred and fifty years im-
mediately preceding the conquest by the
"Catholic Kings." During this period it
was the wealthiest, most learned and most
cultured city in the Peninsula, and was
frequented by the foremost Arabic poets,
historians, philosophers, and scientists.

During our stay in Granada we had the
advantage of being piloted about by a friend

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whom I shall call Don Antonio. He had
met us on our arrival and had taken us to
the best hotel in the town where we had
been given rooms looking out upon the prin-
cipal square and the towering peaks of the
Sierra Nevada. In the afternoon of the next
day Don Antonio came for us and took us
out through crooked little streets whose
buildings were covered with beautiful Arabic
frescoes and tracery, to the cathedral. This
was built in commemoration of the recon-
quest of Southern Spain, and is considered
to be the best Renaissance building in the
Peninsula. After a few general remarks
about Spanish architecture, Ferguson ■ de-
scribes this cathedral in terms that are ju-
dicious, and yet enthusiastic:

"... Its plan is at first sight purely
Gothic, but, on closer examination, it con-
tains arrangements which are not only nov-
elties but improvements upon anything done

1 Ferguson, James, D.C.L., F.R.S., etc.: History of
Modern Styles of Architecture, Third edition, revised. By
Robert Kerr, Architect, F.R.I.B.A., in two volumes, New
York, 1891, Vol. I, pp. 181 and 183.

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before; and such, that, if they had been
fairly worked out, would have produced a
church better fitted for the dignified per-
formance of Roman Catholic rites than any-
thing which we have yet seen. The centre
aisle, which is 40 feet wide, instead of ter-
minating in a mere apse of the same width,
expands into a dome 70 feet in diameter,
beneath the centre of which, in a flood of
light, stands the high altar. . . .

"Looking at its plan only, this is certainly
one of the finest churches in Europe. It
would be difficult to point out any other, in
which the central aisle leads up to the dome,
so well proportioned to its dimensions, and
to the dignity of the high altar which stands
under it, or one where the side aisles have a
purpose and a meaning so perfectly appro-
priate to the situation, and where the centre
aisle has also its function so perfectly marked
out and so well understood."

The north tower is of three stages and is
built (counting from the bottom up) in Doric,
Ionic and Corinthian styles of columns: the
proper way to combine them if all of them are

205

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

to be used. The chief decorations, as well
those of sculpture and architecture as those
of painting, are due to the gifted Alonso Cano.

The Capilla Real lies to the right of the
cathedral itself, although connecting directly
with it, and contains the exquisitely carved
monuments of the "Catholic Kings" (Fer-
dinand and Isabella), and their only daugh-
ter Juana la Loca (Joanna the Mad) and
her consort, Philip the Beautiful, Archduke
of Austria and first of the Hapsburg dynasty
in Spain. The monuments are done in
white marble in the style of the Italian
Renaissance. By a staircase between the
two monuments we descend to the crypt,
where we may see the plain, ironbound,
leaden coffins of the four sovereigns just
mentioned, and that of the Infante Micael.
The coffin of the Archduke Philip is the one
that Juana la Loca used to carry about with
her, as shown in Pradilla's painting in the
Modern Museum at Madrid.

After leaving the cathedral we passed to
the Casa del Cabildo Antigua. This was
formerly the home of the Moorish Uni-

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versity founded by Yusuf I to replace those
that had been lost at Sevilla and Cordoba.
After having been for a while the residence
of the "Catholic Kings" it served from
1500 to 1851 as the Town Hall. It is now
merely a warehouse. A liberal use of white-
wash has concealed most of the Arabic in-
scriptions and ornamentations of the inside,
but the cornices, window-frames and doors
are worth noticing.

After resting for a few minutes in a cafe,
we took a walk through a series of three
beautiful paseos, each of which goes by two
names: the Paseo de la Alameda, or del In-
vierno (Winter Promenade) ; the Paseo del
Salon, or de la Primavera (Spring Prome-
nade) ; and the Paseo de la Bomba or del
Verano (Summer Promenade). They spread
along the banks of the Darro and of the
Genii. Near the junction of the two rivers,
at the head of the Paseo del Salon, is a statue
of Isabella the Catholic agreeing to the pro-
posal of Columbus. The monument is in
bronze and was unveiled in 1892 under very
peculiar circumstances.

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The city of Granada built the monument
and paid for it. Then they invited the Queen
Regent, now the Queen Mother, to come
down and unveil it. The Queen accepted
and started on the long trip south, stopping
at different points, some of them mere
towns, to be present at certain functions.
The city made great preparations for her
reception. A fine grand stand of handsome
mosaic woodwork, in the Arabic style, was
built for her and her attendants. Fireworks
were prepared on an enormous scale and the
best bands in the city were put on extra drill
for the occasion. At the same time that the
city was showing all this popular enthusiasm
for the Queen Regent personally, it con-
tinued its usual policy of opposition to the
throne's program of abrogating the pro-
visions of the Constitution. Suddenly news
came from Sevilla that the Queen had decided
not to go to Granada, and that she would
send three gentlemen of the court to repre-
sent her. The people of Granada were
furious. They wanted to know if the Queen
thought they would put up with such an in-

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suit. Other towns of less importance than
Granada could be honored by her presence;
evidently she did not think herself safe in
Granada (which the citizens naturally re-
sented as an unworthy suspicion), or else
she did not consider Granada worth the
trouble (which the natives just as naturally
resented on other grounds). The mayor of
the city of course had to receive the three
delegates and did so. But the populace
swarmed about the palace and wished to ride
them out of town on a rail, or treat them to
the Spanish equivalent of that method of
travel: mount them astride of mules, but
facing the tail. One of the officers who had
to help receive them was the brother of our
friend Don Antonio, who was naturally very
anxious lest harm should come to his brother
in the performance of his duty. So he
hurried to the palace, and from its very door-
way addressed the people, beseeching them
to do nothing to the delegates; and he was
largely responsible for diverting the crowd's
attention from the delegates to the ceremony
of unveiling the monument. At his sugges-

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RAMBLES IN SPAIN

tion they went to the Plaza. One of the
crowd mounted the platform and addressed
the people, saying that the delegates should
not unveil the monument. Either the Queen
Regent, or the people of the city, would un-
veil it. " Since the Queen Regent does not
deign to honor you with her presence you,
fellow citizens, you yourselves will now un-
veil it." He pulled the string, the bands be-
gan to play, the fireworks were set off, the
people cheered and the veil fell from the
monument. Then an effigy of the Queen
Regent having been made and placed upon
the platform built for her, fire was set to the
whole thing. But the delegates were al-
lowed to leave in peace.

The next afternoon Don Antonio again
called for us and took us, first of all, to the
Casa de los Tiros, so called because of a
dozen barrels of small-bore cannon that
project from its openwork, tower-like top.
This palace, which looks like anything but
a palace from the outside, is the property
of the Marques de Campotejar, a Spanish
title held by an enormously wealthy Italian

210

GRANADA: THE GUADALHORCE RIVER NEAR BOBADILLA.

GRANADA: LA PENA DE LOS ENAMORADOS. VIEW FROM ARCHIDONA.

GRANADA

nobleman, Count Pallavicini. The palace
contains a room, known as the Cuadra
Dorada. The heavily groined ceiling is
profusely decorated with the heads of medi-
aeval celebrities, carved in the massive beams.
There is a fine collection of antiquities, among
which is a sword said to have belonged to
Boabdil, the last Moorish king of Granada.
The entire place shows the exquisite taste of
its owner.

From here we went to the famous Al-
hambra, an adequate description of which is
entirely beyond my powers. Legend and
history, so intertwined that it is hard to tell
them apart, are in every nook and cranny.
One longs to sit down in some quiet spot
and give oneself up to dreams. The place it-
self is a dream, and by thus lounging off in
some out-of-the-way corner, and letting one's
fancy run riot, one can repeople the stately
halls and see again the dark-eyed Moorish
beauties — Zoraida and Lindaraja accom-
panying each other on harp and lute as they
lie at ease on rich, soft-cushioned couches
about which are heavy, crimson hangings;

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Zaida and Zorahaida dancing to the lan-
guorous music of their companions, with slow,
sinuous movements that reveal now and
again a gleam of deep olive hue as the sun-
light strikes through their diaphanous dra-
peries; and still others in blissful idleness
while their maids comb out and sun their
lustrous black tresses: the Dolce jar niente
on every hand. In spite of the strenuous
historical events that are associated there-
with, and although the Alhambra has hanging
over it almost, if not indeed quite, as many
gruesome tales as are told in connection
with the Alcazar at Sevilla, one's dreamings
somehow take on a softer, more romantic
tone. The best preparation one can give one-
self for a proper appreciation of the charm of
the Alhambra, is a careful reading of Irving' s
Tales of the Alhambra.

From the Alhambra we climbed up to the
Palacio de Generalife, the summer residence
of the Moorish princes. The most notable
things about it are its fine views of the Al-
hambra, Granada, and the Sierra Nevada,
and its wonderful gardens, whose wealth of

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roses, and the size of whose tea roses I have
nowhere else seen equaled.

The next afternoon Don Antonio took us
to the Albaicin, which is the gypsy quarter
of Granada, and here we visited their caves
and saw the famous gypsy dances in the cave
of their prince. The dances are performed
by a troupe of eleven girls, and are meant
to accompany love songs in which (both by
the song and the dance) the girl tries to
please her lover and make him more earnestly
long to possess her. The music was furnished
by the prince himself, who is a master of
the guitar. The lover was represented by a
young relative of the prince. These dances
are sensuous and sensual; but their sen-
suality is entirely legitimate, for we must
bear in mind that they are oriental and date
back to a time when woman's only career
was that of wifehood and her only charms
were physical. The girls sit around in a
semicircle and while they sing, cheer the
dancer with such cries as: ;Anda, chica,
corre, que tu novio te mira! jBendita sea la
mare que te pario! "Go it, girl; step lively;

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your sweetheart is looking at you. Blessings
on the mother that bore you!" If the lover
seems inattentive, the girls turn to him, and
sing a song calling his attention at one
moment to the shapely ankle and leg, the
lithe waist and voluptuous breasts, the taper-
ing fingers and delicate hands of the dancer,
at another to her round plump arms and full
throat, her ruby lips, pearly teeth, and shell-
like ear, or again to the dark eyes blazing
under their long lashes, and the graceful,
rhythmic movements with which she keeps
time to the music. Everything is detailed
in a frank endeavor to prevent his overlook-
ing any of her charms. One after another
they try to win the disdainful swain. When
at last one does succeed in pleasing him, he
shows it by deigning to join her in the dance,
and her companions congratulate her as a
prospective bride. Nowhere else in Spain
can these dances be seen in quite their pris-
tine power, but once seen in this way, they
leave an impression which can never be for-
gotten, no matter how awkwardly one may
see them performed on subsequent occasions,

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VIII

ZARAGOZA

THE afternoon express train from Ma-
drid reaches, about two o'clock in the
morning, Zaragoza, the capital of the
old Kingdom of Aragon and an extremely
interesting city, although I can hardly agree
with those who claim that it surpasses Va-
lencia and Sevilla and is second only to
Granada. It is situated on the river Ebro
which is spanned by a fine old stone bridge
dating from 1447 and known as the Puente
de Piedra. It is on this bridge that the re-
turning soldiers sing one of the prettiest
choruses in the well known Zarzuela (short
comic opera), Gigantes y Cabezudos, "Giants
and Dwarfs."

One tarries here a while to take in the ex-
cellent view of city and river that is spread
out before him, and then turns his steps to
the old Gothic cathedral called La Seo, and

217

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

one of the few that are dedicated to the
Saviour. Possibly the most beautiful indi-
vidual piece of La Seo is the Tabernacle,
which indicates the place where the Cristo
de La Seo is said to have spoken to Funes,
one of the canons of the cathedral. By long
odds the most gruesome and most incon-
gruous thing in the church is a monument
to a murderer who lies in state under a mag-
nificent baldachino. This murderer was the
famous, or infamous, at any rate notorious,
Inquisitor Pedro Arbues, who himself was
finally murdered below the crossing of the
cathedral and almost on its altar by Vidal
Durans in 1485. His crimes committed in
the name of religion had made him fearful
of some sort of violence to his own person,
as is shown by the fact that at his death he
was found to be wearing a full shirt of chain
armor under his robes. The strength of arm
of Durans was too much for it, however,
and the deadly steel did its work. During
the reign of Pius IX, Arbues was canonized.
From Lm Seo we went to the other cathe-
dral, dedicated to La Virgen del Pilar. It

918

ZARAGOZA

possesses a pillar on which, so the legend
runs, the Virgin appeared to Saint James, on
his missionary journey through Spain. This
miraculous pillar, surmounted by a small
incense-blackened wooden image of the Vir-
gin (with Christ in her arms), covered with
a relatively enormous dalmatica, is always
in the presence of a large group of the de-
vout and credulous faithful, going over their
rosaries and saying hundreds of Ave Marias,
with here and there a Pater Noster. At the
back of the wall of the chapel that contains
this group there is a hole (large enough for
one person to enter at a time) which permits
the believers to kiss the holy pillar. A long
file of peasants, beggars, people of high de-
gree, young and old, male and female, hale
and infirm, passed by this hole, and kneeling
kissed the stone of the pillar, some of them
giving it such a resounding smack that we
could distinctly hear it where we stood
twenty paces away. When they had ended
their osculations it was with difficulty that
we could bring ourselves to approach the
spot near enough to see it well, for we could

219

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

not but believe that it must fairly reek with
pestilence.

A similar, and if anything more dan-
gerous, custom exists at the monastery of
Montserrat, where the faithful by hundreds
kiss the robe of the Virgin; and at a little
village in the kingdom of Valencia there is a
Virgin whose robe enjoys the reputation of
curing all affections of the eyes, a reputa-
tion which leads those who have eye troubles
to go there and rub the robe across them,
while those who have nothing the matter
with their eyes do the same thing as a pre-
ventive of future trouble. With such prac-
tices as these it is no wonder that one sees
so many halt and blind upon the streets of
all the cities and towns of Spain. Americans,
however, whether Catholic or Protestant,
should not be too censorious toward their
Spanish brothers, for their own practices
frequently fall far below the demands of hy-
giene, and it is notorious that in Protestant
churches many congregations still cling to
the chalice instead of accepting the indi-
vidual wine-cup at the Lord's Supper. And

220

ZARAGOZA

how often we see American mothers giving
their babies a drink from public drinking
cups!

In spite of its gorgeousness this cathedral
is, as a building, the least attractive one I
have seen, and yet it possesses one real gem:
the retablo of the high altar, which is an
exquisite carving of Gothic style cut in pure
alabaster. It is simply impossible to de-
scribe its beauty and delicacy, in spite of the
fact that it is somewhat mutilated.

From the cathedral of La Virgen del Pilar
we went to the Casa Lonja, which was for-
merly the Exchange. This building was
finished in 1551, and its main facade rises
in three tiers, with a mezzanine, and is sur-
mounted with a wide, richly carved over-
hanging cornice. The interior shows one
large hall from floor to roof, with beautiful
Gothic groining. The roof is supported on,
and the hall is divided into three aisles by,
two rows of Ionic columns. In 1901 it was
no longer used for anything but exhibitions
and the storage of two large bells from the
famous leaning tower of Zaragoza, which

221

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

the Zaragozanos had been foolish enough to
tear down.

Our next visit was to the so-called Casa de
Zaporta, or de la Infanta. This was once an
attractive, even magnificent, dwelling erected
in 1550 by Gabriel Zaporta. It was later
turned over to the use of one of the prin-
cesses of Aragon, whence its second name.
Its patio, in two stages, is exquisite even in
its present dilapidation. Although about
1893 it suffered a terrific fire which lasted a
week, since which time it has not been re-
stored, the whole house shows clearly what
its original splendor and solidity must have
been.

From here we went to the Calle del Coso,
which occupies the place of one of the old
fortification walls, and passed the Fuente
de la Sangre (Fountain of Blood) so called
in memory of the sanguinary events of 1809.
Following along the Calle del Coso we soon
reached the palace of the famous Counts of
Luna, a noble family whose most distin-
guished member was the celebrated anti-
Pope Benedict XIII, known as the Papa

222

ZARAGOZA

Luna. The hero of Verdi's well known opera
II Trovatore also belonged to this family.
The building is now used as a courthouse,
but has retained its original beautiful ceilings.
From the courthouse we went to the Pro-
vincial Diet in the patio of which is a large
monument to Juan de Lanuza, the defender
of the Jueros or codes of Aragon, who was
beheaded without trial by order of Philip II,
December 20, 1591. He was Chief Justice
of Aragon, as his fathers had been before
him for a century and a half. This building
is on the Plaza de la Constitution, in which
is the Fountain of Blood to which reference
has already been made. From this plaza
runs the finest street in Zaragoza, the Calle
de la Independencia, which is in the new part
of the city, outside the former city walls, and
continues to the Plaza de Aragon. Near
this latter Plaza is the Church of Santa En-
gracia, a fine Gothic building which was con-
siderably damaged during the famous siege
of 1808. At present the most noteworthy
thing about the church itself is its magnifi-
cent, exquisitely carved alabaster portal.

223

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

A door to the right leads down to the crypt,
or rather to the subterranean church called
Iglesia de las Santas Masas, or de los Mar-
tires. The name is due to the fact that many
Christian martyrs were buried there. The
church-beneath-a-church runs at right angles
with the one above it. In the niches around
the walls are numerous Christian sarcophagi,
in which the bodies of the martyrs are said
to be. In the middle of the nave is a small
monument in the form of a fountain, and it is
said that a spring wells up at this point from
the blood of the Christian martyrs under
Dacian. When I was there the spring
seemed to have dried up.

From Santa Engracia we went to the Gran
Cafe to take some refreshments and rest
awhile. The highly decorated ceiling of this
cafe was estimated to cost fourteen thousand
dollars, and when finished had cost consid-
erably more. The place is exceedingly
beautiful, but the coffee is very bad.

Thence we went to the new University,
which really should not be dignified by such
a name, for the Humanities are entirely ig-

224

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ZARAGOZA : THE HOUSE OF FAIR LUCIA.
From Wood's "Glories of Spain."

ZARAGOZA

nored, and it is composed only of a faculty
of medicine, and a faculty of natural science.
This is the more to be regretted because, for
a considerable period after its foundation
in 1474, it ranked with the other great hu-
manistic centers of Spain; and because
previous to this foundation the city itself
had been known as a great center of Arabic
learning. The ensemble of the university
buildings, grouped about several patios, is
rather dignified, although some of the lecture-
rooms seem a bit crude. The two faculties
that it does possess are said to be very good.

Lovers of Byron are all familiar with the
heroine of Childe Harold — Maria Agus-
tin — "The Maid of Zaragoza." During
the siege of Zaragoza, 1808-1809, she and
her lover fought shoulder to shoulder and,
nothing daunted when he fell beside her, she
grasped the linstock and filled "his fatal
post." It is at the Puerta del Portillo that
this incident is said to have occurred.

But Spain is rich in romantic lore. Every
nook and corner has its tales of long ago.
From Zaragoza, too, comes the story of fair

225

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

Lucia, the beautiful actress — wife of the
son of a reigning duke. Ostracized by his
family, he made his home for five years in
one of the stately palaces of the city. Then
Death came, and the dear, loving wife was
taken from the home. The husband, in-
consolable, plunged madly into the War of
the Spanish Succession, and died upon the
battlefield. The palace, although it has
never since been occupied and is falling into
decay, still shows many traces of its former
grandeur.

Torrero is one of the suburbs of Zaragoza,
and here we saw the Imperial Canal, which
was undertaken in 1528 and has never been
completed. Its present length is about sixty
miles, with an average width and depth of
seventy-two and ten feet, respectively. Ow-
ing to the topography of the district through
which it runs, the canal is at Zaragoza no less
than one hundred and twenty feet above the
river.

Two more buildings require attention, the
old church of San Pablo, which was built
about 1259, and looks the least like a church

226

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ZARAGOZA

of any we visited in the whole country; and
the Castillo de la Aljajeria. This was built
under the Moors and afterwards served as a
dwelling of the kings of Aragon, and as the
palace-prison of the Inquisition. Much of it
was destroyed in 1809, and although it has
since been restored sufficiently to make it
serve as a barracks, it contains only here and
there a suggestion of its former beauty and
grandeur. Among these are the Gran Salon
(with a magnificent artesonado ceiling, di-
vided into thirty compartments, each of
which shows a rosette and a pendant pine-
apple), and the grand staircase. One of the
dungeons of the palace is said to be the one
in which was incarcerated that member of
the Luna family who figures in II Trovatore.
Impossible as it may sound, Cervantes
gained one of his greatest triumphs in the
early part of the nineteenth century, and at
Zaragoza. I refer to the revival of his play, La
Numancia, at Zaragoza in 1808, when Pala-
fox was defending the city against the siege by
the combined French troops under Marshals
Junot, Moncey, Mortier and Lannes. The

227

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

performance, showing Spaniards how their
fathers had died for liberty, inflamed all
hearts to such deeds of daring that for a while
Napoleon's marshals were driven back. No
triumph could have been more pleasing to
the gallant old hero of Lepanto.

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CATALUNA

MONTSERRAT: THE ALTAR OF THE VIRGIN.
From the " Montserrat " published by J. B. Pons.

CATALUNA

AT twenty-two-fifty-five we took train at
the northern station of Zaragoza for an
uncomfortable all-night trip. There was
nothing of interest until at five o'clock in the
morning we reached Lerida, one of the oldest
towns in Spain and situated on both sides of
the Segre River. Strategically it is a very im-
portant position and still ranks as one of the
strongest military commands in the country,
possessing as it does three separate forts. It
boasts of two cathedrals, only the newer of
which, however, is used for religious purposes.
Since 1717, the old cathedral, an extremely
interesting structure, of which Street, in his
Gothic Architecture in Spain, speaks in the
highest terms, has been used for military
purposes.

An interesting post-Biblical legend has
it that, on the Segre River, near Lerida,

231

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

Salome, the daughter of Herodias, met an
appropriate death. We are not told whether
she was dancing or skating, but in any case
she crashed through the ice which, immedi-
ately closing in on her neck, decapitated her.

Seventy miles beyond Lerida lies Manresa,
indissolubly associated with the last years of
Ignacio de Loyola. From the railroad sta-
tion the road crosses a narrow, Roman, stone
bridge and climbs to the impressive "cole-
giata," known as Santa Maria de la Seo,
which lies high up on the opposite bank. I
know of no better description of the spirit
and charm of both Lerida and Manresa
than is to be found in the chapters devoted
to these two towns in Wood's Glories of
Spain.

At nine-five we arrived at the railroad sta-
tion of Monistrol, situated two or three miles
from the village itself, to which we were driven
in a tartana, a two-wheeled cart with seats
along the sides. The drive was through the
pretty Valley of the Llobregat, with the
Montserrat towering high above us. We put
up at the Posada del Llobregat, a typical

232

CATALUNA

Spanish inn, picturesquely situated, and facing
the river itself. We entered through the same
door that served for the horses, the mules, the
geese and the chickens, and then climbed the
staircase of the patio to the first floor, where
we were shown our room, with windows facing
the valley. After lunch and a refreshing nap
we sallied forth, leaving our dress-suit cases in
the care of the innkeeper, and took a train on
the cogwheel railroad to climb the Montserrat.
Upon arrival we went to the administrative
office and were assigned our room. Lodging
in the convent is conducted upon the old
mediaeval plan. The traveler is treated as
God-sent and no charge is made. Of course,
one is expected to give something, but the
overseers never examine how much one offers,
and whether little or much it is thankfully
received. The room that we happened to get
looked out upon the attractive old cloister.

After leaving our satchel and wraps we
went to the vesper service. The church was
dark when we entered, but little by little the
candles were lit until the altar was ablaze
with lights which, reflected in the heavy

233

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

gold decorations, seemed to be myriad. The
music was inspiring and extremely well exe-
cuted. This is scarcely to be wondered at
in view of the fact that the convent's principal
importance is now due to its school for eccle-
siastical music, La Escalonia. The music
consisted of a fine chorus, two organs of very
rich tone, and a delightful string and wind
orchestra, the brasses being entirely absent.

The next morning we went to matins,
after which service we were allowed to go up
to the Camarin de la Virgen. This is one of
the finest, most exquisite Gothic creations it
has ever been my good fortune to see. Ahead
of us was a long line of people awaiting their
turn to go up a narrow staircase, at the top
of which, on a landing, stood a priest beside
the object of their long pilgrimage, the Santa
Imagen de la Virgen, the Holy Image of the
Virgin. The statue is a small wooden image,
blackened with age, and represents the Vir-
gin seated, with the Christ-child in her lap.
One after another the faithful passed up the
stairs, kissed the robe which hangs from the
Virgin's shoulders and then filed out by

234

CATALUNA

another little staircase, at the end of which
was an altar-boy with a plate, on which money
had to be dropped. We enjoyed exceedingly
the room with its pure architecture, and
were profoundly impressed with the evident
sincerity of the worshipers, as we had been
in the cathedral of Nuestra Senora del Pilar
at Zaragoza.

This statue of the Virgin is what caused
the building of the monastery, and the special
development of the services in her honor,
for which the monastery and its musical
school have been noted during several cen-
turies. The legend is that Luke made the
statue, and that Peter brought it to Spain
and left it with the church in Barcelona. On
the invasion of the Moors in 717, it was
carried into the mountains and hid in a cave.
In 880 it was found by some shepherds be-
cause of some miraculous meteoric showers
that fell over the spot on several successive
Saturday nights. The Bishop of Vich was in-
formed of the discovery and tried to take the
statue away. When he had reached a certain
spot on the mountain the statue refused to

235

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

go any further, whereupon it was decided
to build a monastery for her, and to it she
was taken upon its completion in 885. In
1410, Pope Benedict XIII raised it to the
dignity of an independent abbey, and for
more than four hundred years it was one of
the most wealthy and celebrated monasteries
in the country, and its abbot, one of the
most powerful prelates, on many occasions
even ruling political affairs in the principality
of Catalufia.

From the church we went for a long walk
and one fairly difficult in spite of the large
sums that have been spent to make the road
passable. After passing the cross which is
appropriately inscribed and marks the spot
where the statue became immovable, we
came to the famous cave in which the statu-
ette is said to have been found. Over the
precipitous ledge in front of it, and so placed
that the grotto forms the altar, has been
built a pretty little chapel in Byzantine style.
After resting for a few minutes to enjoy the
strong, cool breeze, and take in the broad
panorama of the Llobregat valley that lay

23(i

CATALUNA

far below us basking in the sunshine, we
started on the difficult climb back to the
monastery. The aforementioned Llobregat
valley basked in the sunshine, but we baked,
or broiled, or roasted, as you like. The
climb was really very severe, although less
so than it must have been in the days before
the present good footpath which some pious,
wealthy woman has caused to be constructed.
When we reached the monastery again we
sat around in the grateful shade of the plane
trees in its picturesque old patio. In this
way we rested thoroughly before going to
dinner. Afterwards we went for a pleasant
walk along the face of the mountain by the
road known as the C amino de los Degotalls,
which skirts the base of the towering cliffs
on one's left (while far below on one's right
lies the valley), and leads to the so-called
Degotalls (the Drops), a sort of grotto through
whose roof drops of water trickle in rainy
weather. On our way back to the monastery
we passed through the Mirador de los Monjes,
or convent garden. At five o'clock in the
afternoon we took our departure for Monistrol

237

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

and returned to our picturesque little inn,
where we spent the next two nights and a
day.

A two-hour journey, whose only interest
is the fine retrospective view of the Mont-
serrat shortly after leaving Monistrol, took
us to Barcelona, the capital of the principality
of Cataluna.

As it was midsummer, and the heat of the
early afternoon was excessive, we rested
until about four o'clock. Then we took a
pleasant walk along some of the outer boule-
vards to the statue of Columbus, erected
from 1882 to 1890. When I call it a statue
my description is far from complete. It is a
monument two hundred feet high and stands
only a stone's throw from the water of the
bay. The lower part is a large stone pedestal
surrounded by bronze lions and high reliefs,
the latter of which have been most shamefully
mutilated. From this pedestal rises majestic-
ally, a tall iron column surmounted by an
enormous gilded ball on which stands the
heroic statue of Columbus (twenty-three feet
high), by Rafael Atche, so placed that Colum-

238

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CATALUNA

bus looks out over the sea, toward which he
points with outstretched palm.

From here we walked up the Ramblas,
which are the famous series of promenades
that cut the old town in two and are formed
by arching over the old river bed. It is an
Unter den Linden in little, but somewhat
more picturesque because of the unusual
types of character to be met with.

After a horrible night, due to the Bar-
celonese breed of mosquitoes, which are
quite the equals of their Jersey relatives, we
went out to the Cafe del Liceo for our break-
fast. It has the reputation of serving the
best coffee in Barcelona, and consequently
charges more for it than any other place in
town. We found it pretty bad, however,
and so, like the man who struck the Bowery
on his first night in New York, "we never
went there any more."

The rest of the morning we spent "doing"
the store district. This city is the most pro-
gressive thing we have encountered since we
crossed the Pyrenees, and its stores and elec-
tric cars show the general effect of this state

239

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

of affairs. But it is likewise, and by just so
much, the least Spanish city in the country.

The church of Santa Maria del Pino, a
fifteenth century Gothic building, is a charac-
teristic Catalan church with a large aisleless
nave, flanked on each side with a row of
chapels. The end is formed by an heptagonal
apse that is splendid. In the west facade is
a great rose window, filled with very delicate
tracery. As far as both the tracery and the
coloring are concerned I think it is the most
exquisite (Eil-de-bwuf that I have ever seen.
The church gets its name from the legend
which says that its figure of the Virgin was
found hidden in a pine tree. In honor
thereof, every Palm Sunday when all the
rest of Christendom is celebrating Christ's
entry into Jerusalem, this church celebrates
its Virgin, and hangs up a pine branch duly
consecrated.

In the afternoon we went to the cathedral,
which is likewise built in the Catalan style
of Gothic art, whose peculiar feature is the
extreme width of the nave. Nowhere else
has such daring been shown in the propor-

240

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CATALUNA

tions. This particular church, too, is one of
the best of the Spanish Gothic creations.
The nave is eighty-two feet high and forty-
two feet wide. The windows are extremely
small and placed at an unusual height. They
are filled, however, with exquisite stained
glass of the fifteenth century, and at sunset
the light effects are simply gorgeous! We
went early in order to inspect the whole
cathedral thoroughly and at our ease by as
good a light as possible. Then we went out
and visited some interesting places in the
neighborhood before returning for the sunset
effects.

On leaving the cathedral we stayed for a
while in the fine Gothic cloisters, in one
corner of which is the Capilla de Santa Lucia,
consecrated in 1058, nearly four hundred
years before the cloisters were finished.

From here we went to the Casa Gremial
de los Zapateros, or Shoemakers' Guildhouse,
a Renaissance building of 1545. After one
has seen the Guildhouses of Brussels, this
one offers little of interest except its existence
as a rara avis, in a country that always has

241

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

been opposed to any institution that smacked
in the least of a possibility of organized resist-
ance against, or protection from, the tyranny
and oppression of the Church, or of any other
constituted authority. While we were in the
neighborhood we took occasion to see, too,
the Episcopal palace, which is said to have
occupied its present site since 926, although
the edifice itself has twice been rebuilt; the
Canonja, or Canonry, built during the fif-
teenth century; and the Almoyna, or House
of the Almoners.

Thence we went to the Casa de la Diputa-
cion, or State House for the Principality of
Cataluna. The building is architecturally
a delight. In it we saw several fine paintings
by the Catalan artist Fortuny, chief among
them being his Battle of Tetuan, which his
untimely death prevented his finishing. Here
we saw, too, the famous Spoliarium of Luna
Novicio, which represents a fallen gladiator
as he is being dragged from the arena.

The evening we spent in the Cafe Colon,
listening to a very good concert by a military
band. The music chosen, however, was of

242

CATALUNA

an international character and lacking in
local color.

The next day the University was visited.
As the Rector was in the building, and the
regular hours for visiting it are in the after-
noon, the porter could not show us about.
So we had to content ourselves with seeing
the lower corridors and halls, and the spacious
airy patios with their pleasant colonnaded
ambulatories. This university was founded
in 1450 by Alfonso V, of Aragon. The first
Bourbon king of Spain transferred it in
1717 to the neighboring town of Cervera,
where it remained for more than a century
and a quarter.

From the University we went to the Ro-
manesque church of Santa Ana. It was
built in 1146, by Guillermo II, who was a
patriarch of Jerusalem, and the story goes
that it was patterned after the Church of the
Holy Sepulchre.

Late in the afternoon, when the heat was
a little less oppressive, we went to the church
of Santa Maria del Mar, which is only about
a stone's throw from the water front and

243

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

was built in the middle of the fourteenth
century. The interior is extremely attractive
in its simplicity; and the beautiful rose-
window in its portal well repays attention.

From Santa Maria del Ma?' we retraced
our steps through the Plaza del Palacio (the
chief center of the maritime interests of
Barcelona and a beautiful little park with
a handsome marble fountain), to the Paseo
de Colon. Through the vista of its plane
trees and palms one has a charming view of
Montjuich, whose fortress is the terror of
Barcelona.

We then took a tramway out to the penin-
sula, which forms the eastern edge of the
harbor and on which lies the suburb of
Barceloneta. The tramway took us right
into the sheds of the bath-house; but as we
could not get down to the sea without paying
for it, we returned to the Embarcadero de la
Paz. From this point small, dirty, ill-kept
ferryboats cross the harbor to another part
of Barceloneta. Here we were able to get
down near to the water and see it, but were
kept at a respectful distance from it by a

244

TARRAGONA : PLAZA DEL PALLOL.

TARRAGONA: TORREON DE PILATOS.

CATALUNA

picket fence, within whose precincts only
bathers were allowed to enter.

On our return to the Embarcadero de la
Paz, which is at the foot of the Ramblas
that cut the old city through the middle from
fortification to fortification, we took a car for
a trip around one half the outer boulevards,
which occupy the site of the former bulwarks.

The day we visited the cathedral and the
Casa de la Diputacion, we had not time to
go through the Audiencia, or courthouse of
the Principality of Cataluna, although it is
virtually in the same building as the State
House. The two buildings are connected
by galleries which surround a beautiful patio
from which a fine staircase leads up to the
cloister-like arcades of the galleries. Pene-
trating into the farther building we came to
the Patio de los Naranjos, which is really a
hanging garden, since it is built on the roof
of the ground floor of the buildings. It gets
its name from the large orange trees which
shade it. Crossing this patio, we entered
the real courthouse. The Huissiers, in fine
dress suits, and wearing straight swords like

245

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

those of the Templars, were quite impressive
and very courteous. A man was called up
and told to show us the different rooms. We
passed rapidly through the Sala Civil and
the Sala Criminal, with its fine artesonado
ceiling, and finally came to the chief room of
the building: the Salon de los Reyes. The
walls are decorated with portraits of all the
Counts of Barcelona arranged in chronolog-
ical order. From this room we went to the
lion of the whole Audiencia: the Camilla de
San Jorge. After passing through an elabo-
rately carved Gothic portal we found an
exquisitely simple Gothic interior whose
walls were hung with rich tapestries. The
sacristy contains a magnificently illuminated
manuscript missal, and a fifteenth century
altar frontal, with beautiful embroidery repre-
senting Saint George and the Dragon.

We next went to the Plaza del Rey, which
used to be the central part of the old palace
inhabited by the Counts of Barcelona and
the Kings of Aragon. This Plaza is bounded
on the west by the Archivo General de la
Corona de Aragon, a Gothic building erected

246

CATALUNA

by Charles V. It surrounds a quadrangular
court from which a fine staircase leads to
the cloister-like gallery of the second story.
This staircase is surmounted by a round dome
(called by the Spaniards media naranja,
half-orange) which is entirely lined with
exquisite fretwork carving. Across the Plaza
del Rey is the Capilla Real de Santa Agueda,
which was formerly the chapel of the Palace
and is now used as a provincial museum.

From here we walked to the Parque y
Jardines de la Ciudadela, the Central Park
of Barcelona, and corresponding to New
York's Central Park even to the extent of
having within its precincts a Zoological
Garden and a Palace of Fine Arts.

Every morning since our arrival in Barce-
lona we had tried breakfast in a different
place without finding anything to our satis-
faction until we went to the Cafe de Oriente,
or Salon Condal. After fortifying ourselves
with a really good breakfast, we spent the
morning walking up Montjuich under a
blazing sun, and visiting the fortress on its
crest. This mountain rises gradually out of

247

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

the valley of the Llobregat, but presents a
precipitous front to the sea. It completely
dominates Barcelona, and the view from its
top is extensive and beautiful. The fortress
has large magazines and accommodations
for ten thousand soldiers. Visitors are not
admitted except by special permit obtained
from the Captain General, or the Command-
ant. That I did not know; and so when the
sentry halted us I told him what I wanted
and asked him to pass in my card to the Com-
mandant. After a delay of about fifteen
minutes a young lieutenant came to us and
led us to the lieutenant-colonel who, holding
my card in his hand, said to us:

"We are instructed not to let foreigners
see the fortifications, except by special order.
The colonel in command is absent and he is
very strict. You are an Englishman, are
you not?" looking down at the card. I
said that I was not and assured him that
I was only a Yankee; that the name was
Irish but that, as the family had been in
America about one hundred and fifty years,
I thought we were fairly entitled to con-

248

TARRAGONA: CYCLOPEAN GATE.

TARRAGONA: CYCLOPEAN WALL.

CATALUNA

sider ourselves as belonging to the United
States.

"Oh," he said, "that makes a difference.
You've climbed up this hill with your wife
in all this scorching sun and it would be a
shame to send the lady down again without
showing her anything. If you were an
Englishman I could not permit it, but under
the circumstances we can stretch the rules
a little in favor of the lady. Lieutenant, you
may show them the whole place."

Of course we were profuse in our thanks.
The lieutenant was as good as his orders and
was very entertaining, so that we passed a
most agreeable hour and a half in going over
the fortress that the natives of Barcelona
hate, for it is from here that the soldiers
descend upon the town, whenever there are
riots, and give the rioters a thrashing, just
to keep peace in the family.

Later in the afternoon three hours were
pleasantly spent in visiting the Torre de Mira-
mar, a house of Moorish style, surrounded by
immense gardens and orchards, the whole
laid out on the slopes of Montjuich and

249

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

nestling right up under the walls of the for-
tress. Here we roamed about, picking figs
fresh from the trees and luscious tomatoes
right from the vines.

The next day shortly after noon we boarded
the train for the three-hour run down the
coast to Tarragona. This is one of the pretti-
est rides in all Spain. Tired of barren plains
and rugged, treeless mountain sides, the
traveler breathes new life as the train runs
along so close to the water that at times the
tiny waves wash up to the tracks. As soon
as we had located in our hotel, we set out
for a walk along the beautiful Paseo de Santa
Clara, which skirts the sea edge of the bluff.
Tarragona occupies a long, narrow, irregular
plateau, that rises almost sheer from the
sandy beach of the Mediterranean. This
Paseo is built on the remains of the old
Roman walls and commands an extensive
and charming view.

At one point on the land side of the prome-
nade there rises the Torreon de Pilatos, a
prison likewise built on the Roman walls,
and simply Cyclopean in the thickness of its

250

CATALUNA

own walls. It got its name from the belief
that Pontius Pilate was a native of Tarragona.

A little beyond the Torreon the promenade
leaves the immediate bluff. At its highest
point, and built snugly between it and the
edge of the cliff, is the Provincial Charity
Bureau. In the triangle formed by the bluff,
the house, and the promenade, nestles the
fascinating garden belonging to the Bureau,
from which we have one of the finest views
in all the town.

From this delightful walk, with the twilight
slowly gathering about us and the moon
rising gradually over the blue waters of the
Mediterranean as the sun sank behind the
mountains in the west, we returned to the
hotel for supper, and an excellent one it was.

After resting awhile we set out for another
walk through the Rambla de San Juan, on
which our hotel was situated, and which is
the principal thoroughfare of the city. It
is a wide, double street, with a promenade
in the center lined with trees and as wide as
the two carriageways that flank it. It crosses
the city at its widest point. At the end nearest

251

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

the sea is a monument surmounted by a
large bronze statue of Admiral Roger de
Lauria, who defeated the French fleet of
Charles d'Anjou at Naples in 1284, and who
is buried in the Cistercian convent of Santas
Creux about thirty miles away. The statue
stands with its back to the sea and conse-
quently faces down the long Rambla.

From the bluff behind the statue we en-
joyed the calm, quiet scene that lay before
us. The night was somewhat cloudy and
the moon itself was often hidden from our
sight, but its gleam on the flashing waters
of the Mediterranean turned them into a
sea of silver, whose form varied in answer
to the fleeting movements of the clouds.
From below arose the murmur of the waters,
as the little waves broke upon the beach,
while from behind us, whenever there was
a lull in the sea breeze, there was brought to
our ears the gentle humming of conversation
as the promenaders strolled about for their
nightly airing.

After a good night's sleep we started on a
hard day of sightseeing. The first thing that

252

TARRAGONA: CATHEDRAL CLOISTERS.

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TARRAGONA : FOUR-LIGHT AJIMEZ WINDOW.

CATALUNA

struck our fancy was an old ruinous-looking
house (solid enough as a matter of fact,
however), which faced the little Plaza de
Pallol. It is not mentioned in the guide-
book, but over an uninteresting cavernous
door was a beautiful old ajimez window:
not large, being only two-paneled, but charm-
ing, none the less. Thence we walked along
to the Puerta del Rosario, from which we had
a good view of the Vega that lies to the west
of Tarragona. Just beyond this gate the
fortification walls become extremely interest-
ing. They are not built in the usual way of
hewn stones, but of enormous, rough, unhewn
bowlders of Cyclopean character. At this
point we can also see the small doorway
leading into the citadel of pre-Roman days.

We next tried to find the street on one of
whose houses were two Roman inscriptions
built right into the front walls. The name
of the street had been changed and so had
the number of the house, but we finally
found it, and as the sun was shining full upon
the inscriptions I took a photograph of each
of them.

253

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

Near here is the cathedral. Tarragona
is the capital of a province and the seat of
the Archbishop. The incumbent of this
Metropolitan See disputes the right of the
Cardinal Archbishop of Toledo to the title of
Primate of All Spain and claims that honor
for himself. The Popes have never been able
to settle the dispute and the Cardinal Arch-
bishop of Toledo, ever since the establishment
of the Primacy, has as a matter of fact always
enjoyed the privileges and emoluments of
the Primate.

This cathedral lays no claim to being the
storehouse of priceless works of art, and its
chapels contain nothing of great interest.
But in its own bare, unadorned beauty, it is
one of the most imposing examples of the
architecture of the Late-Romanesque-Tran-
sition period. The transepts are graced
with two exquisite rose windows. The only
interesting monument is the tomb of James
I of Aragon, known as Jaime el Conquistador,
who died in 1276.

The chief glory of the cathedral lies in its
cloisters, which are a perfect dream. They

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date from the first half of the thirteenth
century and are, to my mind, the most
beautiful I have seen. The garden of the
cloisters is filled with oleanders and other
evergreens, which make a pretty contrast
with the brownish-gray stone of the build-
ing. On one of the walls is an exquisite
little Moorish window said to be a prayer
niche, or mihrab.

We were sorry to leave so charming and
so restful a spot, but after an hour and a
half we felt we must move on to the other
points of interest that were awaiting our
attention. Not far away we found the Plaza
de la Fuenta, which from its long, oblong
shape is thought to occupy the site of a
former Roman Circus. In it is an old Roman
well one hundred and fifty feet deep which
those who are sufficiently curious are per-
mitted to descend.

In the early afternoon, in spite of the heat,
we visited two points because the light would
be right for taking photographs. On one
side of the open square in front of the cathe-
dral there is a house with a beautiful four-

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

light ajimez window, the only one of four-
lights we have seen. The Puerto, Ciclopea
of the Campo de Marie was discovered in
December, 1868. The wall through which
it is opened is 5.70 meters thick. The door-
way itself measures 1.40 meters in width,
and 2.50 in height. The capstone is formed
by one massive rock, rough-hewn, and in
length more than twice the width of the door-
way.

As by this time the worst of the heat had
passed we decided to go down to the harbor
and walk out along the splendid Muelle del
Levante. This mole was originally con-
structed in 1491, partly from the fragments
of the Roman amphitheater which lay not
far away; but it has since been greatly en-
larged. From this point one has the best
view of the high-lying town.

We now returned to the hotel for a cup of
coffee, while waiting for a carriage which
was to take us out to the famous Roman
Aqueduct. When the carriage was finally
announced we found it to be an enclosed
hotel omnibus, the seats running along the

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sides, and with no window except at the
back. Of course we refused to go in any
such rig as that, since we had stipulated for
an open carriage for two. The hotel proprie-
tor, who had helped us make the original
arrangements, stood by us like a major,
called the boss of the coachman several kinds
of an idiot in choicest Catalan, and told him
that if he could not get us a decent open
carriage the whole deal would have to be
called off. The coachman hurried away and
in fifteen minutes dashed up to the door of
the hotel in a century-old barouche with a
driver's seat about ten feet up in the air. It
was comfortable, however, and had evidently
been a fine turnout in its day, so we climbed
into it as though we were used to such swell
things and rode about every day in them at
home. The driver couldn't make believe
quite so well, for the first tree we drove under
nearly swept him back into our laps. The
drive was most delightful. The sun had
gotten so low in the heavens that all its
fierce heat was gone. The rich green fields
gave out that odor so characteristic of the

257

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

approach of twilight and the air seemed to
be purer, as well as cooler.

The aqueduct, called the Acueducto de las
Ferreras, or more popularly the Pont del
Diable, is perhaps as imposing a monument
as any left by the Romans in Spain, in spite
of the fact that, unlike the aqueduct of Sego-
via, it is now in ruins. The arches are all
intact, but the trough has lost its sides in
many places. We climbed up onto the top
of it and walked out a short distance until
we reached a spot where there were no side
walls. The aqueduct consists of two tiers,
like that of Segovia. It seems to have been
built about the beginning of the Imperial
epoch and hence would antedate the one at
Segovia by about two and a half centuries.
Through one of the side valleys of the Fran-
coli it brought the water of the Gaya River
to Tarragona and was in use as late as 1800.

There are three other aqueducts (two of
them Roman), all of which to-day carry
water to Tarragona, and we have had no
finer drinking water anywhere in Spain.
Before we returned to the hotel our driver

258

CATALUNA

took us out around the edge of the town to
see these three aqueducts as they come across
the valley immediately below.

Night had now closed in, and, after supper,
we again repaired to the bluff at the end of
the Rambla de San Juan to enjoy once more
the witchery of the moonlight upon the waters
of the sea.

259

VALENCIANA IN GALA COSTUME.
Photographer not known.

VALENCIA

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WITH Tarragona we completed our
visit to the Principality of Cataluna,
and at nine-tkirty-five in the morning
took train for Valencia, where we arrived at
nineteen-fifteen, exactly forty minutes late.
Most of the delay was caused just outside of
Valencia, and we were unable to get into the
city. The halt was not entirely useless, how-
ever, since it gave us an opportunity to see
some of the track laborers prepare, right beside
our car, the famous Valencian dish called
Paella. It would not have taken much persua-
sion to make us leave the car and help them
eat it.

The trip down was very uncomfortable,
during the three hours in the middle of the
day, because of the intense, suffocating heat,
but the beauty of the scenery was well worth
the discomfort. This line, like that from

263

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

Barcelona, skirts the sea all the way from
Tarragona to Valencia. At many points
the tiny waves of the placid Mediterranean
actually wash the tracks, and its deep blue
waters are out of sight only as we pierce here
and there a promontory whose rocky edge
descends so sharply into the water that there
is no room for the railway track. On every
hand we pass through beautiful groves of
olive and almond trees, for this is the garden
of Spain, and is even more wonderful in its
agricultural feats than is Andalucia.

The most important city through which
we pass on the way down is Tortosa. In a
country which has always been known for
its outward courtesy to women, but in which,
for reasons due to the curious intermingling
of Christian and Oriental ideas concerning
women, they have, until recently, really been
kept in virtual slavery, it is of interest to
note that the women of this city enjoy pecu-
liar favors. As a reward for their having
helped in beating off the Moors during a
certain siege of the city in 1149, the king,
Ramon Berenguer IV, conferred upon them

264

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VALENCIA: THE SALON DE CORTES OF THE AUDIENCIA.
From Wood's "Glories of Spain."

VALENCIA

the red sash of the Order of the Axe, La
Hacha, and granted them two other privi-
leges dear to woman's heart, namely, to
import their dress goods free of duty and to
precede the men at marriages.

Although the Kingdom of Valencia shows
very marked traces of its occupation by the
Iberians, Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans,
Visigoths and Arabs previous to its conquest
by Spaniards, we none the less think of it
most often in connection with the Moors,
and the Cid, who conquered it in 1095 and
held it until his death in 1099. During his
brief possession of the kingdom, the city of
Valencia acquired the name by which it has
continued to be known: Valencia del Cid.
Even after his death his wife Jimena tried
to hold the city, and the Spanish ballad
writers seem never to have wearied of telling
how, when she found that to be impossible,
she placed the corpse of her husband astride
his old war horse, Babieca (which he had won
from a Moorish king), and rode out of the
city with him, while the Moors, who were
ignorant of his death, fled in terror.

265

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

The first morning in Valencia breakfast
was taken in the Cafe de Espana, the most
beautiful one in the city and entirely deco-
rated in the Moorish style. Our first point
of attack for sightseeing was the cathedral,
which some say occupies the site on which
formerly stood a temple of Diana. The
present building was founded in 1262 and
finished in 1482, and like most of the cathe-
drals in the country is dedicated to the
Virgin. It is in many respects an interesting
building and contains several very good
pictures. In the semi-circular ambulatory
there is a dark chapel, to the Virgen del Puig,
which has two exquisite alabaster windows.
The beautiful old Gothic Sala Capitular
Antigua should also be seen.

The Miguelete, or bell tower, is mounted
by a winding staircase of two hundred and
seven steps. The story runs that the original
architect intended it to be much higher, but
its present height, one hundred and fifty-two
feet, is curiously enough equal to the cir-
cumference of its eight equal sides. The
tower is named from one of its bells, which

26G

VALENCIA

in turn got its name from the fact that it was
first hung on Saint Michael's Day. The
strokes of this bell regulate the irrigation of
the whole Huerta de Valencia. Although
this is one of the most fertile regions of Spain
it depends almost entirely on artificial irriga-
tion. The view from the top of the belfry is
extensive and beautiful. It is said that when
the Cid had conquered the city he brought
his wife, Jimena, and his daughters Elvira
and Sol, to the top of the tower (not this one,
but the Moorish tower that originally stood
here), in order to show them the earthly
paradise he had won for them.

Our next visit is to the Audiencia, formerly
the Chamber of Deputies of the Kingdom
of Valencia. The interior contains two
superb rooms. We entered first the Secre-
taria, whose beautiful artesonado ceiling is
gilded. Upstairs the Salon de Cortes, or
old Chamber of Deputies, has a similar
ceiling which is the equal of anything we have
seen. Its side walls are decorated with exqui-
site azulejos and excellent historic frescoes.

From here we went to the Pueria de Serra-

267

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

nos, the old North Gate of the city, an interest-
ing building belonging to the second half of
the fourteenth century, and one of the two
only extant remains of the old fortification
walls. After passing through it, we took a
tramcar half-way around the city, following
the boulevards which, as in the case of Bar-
celona, occupy the site of the former city walls.
After leaving the car we went to the Convento
de las Escuelas Pias, or de los Escolapios. The
Escolapians are a teaching order, like the
Jesuits, but differing from the Jesuits in that
they teach the poor. The convent is a large,
clean, well-kept place, and we were shown
about by a little old man, a lay brother, who
was very courteous to us and much interested
in the freedom of religious worship as found
in the United States. He informed us that
in Spain those who enjoyed the least religious
liberty were the Roman Catholics, and as
an example cited a circumstance that had
occurred only the week before, when " the
populace had arisen en masse in Valencia
and prevented the occurrence of a Jubilee
procession ' ' of some kind, which the people

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with more or less justice had taken to be a
political demonstration under the cover of
religion.

From the Escuelas Pias we went out to
the bathing resort known as El Grao. The
tram ride out through a long beautiful avenue,
lined on both sides with noble trees, was
cool and refreshing, as was also our swim in
the waters of the Mediterranean.

The next day we took breakfast with our
Valencian friends at the Leon de Oro, Lion
d'Or, or Goldenen Lowe, it bears all three
names. As we sat at a table on the sidewalk
we had some curious experiences, among
which the following amused us not a little.

A small boy, of perhaps ten years, holding
a baby girl of some three years in his arms,
came up to us, and asked us for some money.
Don Juan replied to them in Valencian that
he would give no money to children with
such dirty faces. (They were about as dirty
as they could be.) Then he told them to go
and wash their faces and afterwards come
back to him. They went away and we
supposed we should see no more of them.

'269

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

Pretty soon a gypsy woman came to us,
also begging for money. Don Juan told her
to go away as he would give her nothing.
She backed off a short distance and began
to hurl upon us a torrent of gypsy curses and
maledictions that lasted for about three
minutes. If the half that to me was unintelli-
gible were of the same tenor as the half that
I understood, we are damned for all eternity,
as are also our ancestors and our descendants.

While this was going on, our two children
hove in sight. In order to remain outside
the pale of the damning invectives of the
gypsy they stayed at a respectable distance
until she had gone. The youngsters were
hardly recognizable: their faces shone like
the sun, a most violent contrast to their
former condition, and we could see the blood
coursing under the skin from the violent
rubbing that they must have given it at
some near-by fountain. Although they still
seemed to fear the effects of the anathemas
that had been heaped upon us, under the
kind, fatherly glance of Don Juan they
managed to take courage, and when he had

270

VALENCIA: INTERIOR OF THE LONJA DE LA SEDA.
Angel Photograph.

VALENCIA

given them some coppers and the bread and
sugar that we did not need at our breakfast,
their eyes lighted up and, with a hearty
"Gracias, Senor" they scampered away,
two of the happiest children in the whole
city.

After breakfast we all went to the market
place, which, with its busy peasants from
the surrounding country dressed in their pe-
culiar semi-oriental costumes, presented a
scene that words cannot describe. Facing
the market place is the Lonja de la Seda, or
Silk Exchange, a fine Gothic structure built
in 1482. Its main facade, one hundred and
seventy-eight feet long and richly decorated,
is divided vertically into three sections, the
middle one rising higher than the others in
a sort of tower. The whole interior of the
east wing is given up to the Exchange Hall.
The star-vaulting, of whose richness you may
judge by the accompanying illustration, is
supported on two rows of spiral pillars which
divide the hall into three lofty aisles. It is
all very bold, light and elegant, and the
branching of the spiral columns into the

271

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

groining of the star-vaulting produces the
effect of a forest of stone palms. Behind the
center part, and enclosed between the two
wings, is a pleasant patio of orange trees.
The walls that face this patio are decorated
with beautiful ajimez windows.

On our way down from Tarragona to
Valencia, we passed Sagunto, but as the
sleeping accommodations are very poor, and
we reached the town at about sunset, we
decided not to stop off, especially as it makes
a pleasant excursion out from the capital
itself.

On leaving the station I made my way direct
to the house of the Castellan of the former
fortress which crowns the hill and dominates
the town. On inquiring about photographs
he directed me to the house of the historian
of the city, who is also one of its best physi-
cians. I found the house without difficulty
and sent in my card. From the reception
given me one would have thought me some
great potentate, or at least a long-lost friend.
We immediately adjourned to his office and
he got out his private album of views of the

272

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city. Then he showed me his work entitled
Sagunto: su historia y sus monumentos,
"Sagunto: its history and its monuments."
There are two volumes. The first deals with
the history and the second with the monu-
ments; both are profusely illustrated. The
work was awarded a prize in the Floral
Games (Juegos Florales) of the Rat-Penat,
which took place in Valencia in 1885. I
passed a delightful half-hour and should have
been glad to stay longer with the Doctor;
but the monuments themselves were calling
me, so I hurried back to the house of the
Castellan, who had meanwhile gotten ready
to accompany me up the hill.

First we stopped at the old Roman Theater,
which lies about halfway up. Few Roman
monuments of this kind are as well preserved.

As we climbed the hill we first encountered
the stage and its adjoining buildings. The
stage itself is exceptionally shallow, only
about eight and a half feet in depth. We
ascended an inclined gallery through the
foundations of these buildings and emerged
on the semi-circular orchestra, or chorus,

273

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

directly in front of the stage. The latter I
mounted in order to take some photographs
and myself get a better view of the whole.
To my left were some large, cavernous
rooms built in the very foundations of the
extreme end of the auditorium, and visible
only because part of the end had fallen in.
Before me lay the curved and concentric
rows of the seats of the auditorium. As
usual this follows the lines of the hill on
which it is located, and the seats (with the
exception of the aforesaid extreme ends)
are hewn out of the living rock. There are
twenty-two of these rows, the lower fourteen
being separated from the upper eight by a
broad passageway, to which subterranean
passages and galleries lead, so that the spec-
tators for the upper seats did not need to
disturb those for the lower ones in going to
their places, Some authorities say that there
were originally four more rows above the
highest now to be seen, and that the seating
capacity of the theater was about eight
thousand.

The view from the theater, both uphill at

271

VALENCIA

the fortification walls of the old Roman town,
and downhill, at the only less old present
town, is very picturesque; while that from
the chorus level through the vaulted arches
on the right, taking in the cypresses on the
distant Calvario is particularly charming.

It was pleasure unalloyed to be able to
sit in the breezy shade in one of the time-
worn seats, and imagine that I was listening
to, and looking at, a performance of the
Miles Gloriosus, or the Captivi, or the
Amphitruo of Plautus, or the jolly, pretty
little Andria, or the Phormio of Terence.

After indulging in such day dreams for a
while I climbed up to explore the citadel.
And what scenes that citadel has witnessed!
The present fortifications mark the site of
Saguntum, an old Iberian town famous for
its unsuccessful resistance to Hannibal in
219 B. C. After eight months of siege the
Carthaginians captured the citadel as well as
the town; but Hannibal found almost none
of the inhabitants, for they had died fighting
or voluntarily perished in the flames of the
burning city, thus setting an example for

275

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

the inhabitants of Numantia about a hundred
years later. Five years after its capture by
the Carthaginians the Romans took the city
and rebuilt it. Its former importance was
never regained, however, although the Roman
remains show that even in the second period
it was no mean city.

The Moors, whom the redoubtable Cid
drove out temporarily in 1099, knew Sagunto
only as Murbiter, which gave it the name
Murviedro, by which it was known through-
out the Middle Ages, and down to 1877,
when the old classical name was restored.
The only use the Moors and their successors
ever made of the noble remains of this glori-
ous past was to turn them into a quarry. It
is a satisfaction to know that the days of such
ruthless destruction are now over. The His-
torical Society of Sagunto has put the remains
under lock and key, and those in the imme-
diate neighborhood of the town are being col-
lected, preserved, and studied. The ruins and
collections are all accessible on request, how-
ever, so that any tourist may see them.

It was with the brilliant history of this

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little town in my mind that I climbed the
sharp slope from the theater to the draw-
bridge of the only entrance of any importance
in the outer fortifications. For an hour and
a half I wandered at my own sweet will about
this enormous fortress (given up as a mili-
tary post as recently as 1899), leaving the
guide at the main entrance smoking the
inevitable cigarette. The fortress is divided
latitudinally by many strong walls (almost
as strong as the exterior walls), which cut
it up, like the bulkheads of a ship, into several
separately defensible parts. The Puerto, de
Almenara gives one an idea of the doorway
in one of these lateral fortification walls.
The view of the city, the coast and the sea
from the extreme eastern end of the hill,
which drops precipitously right to the edge
of the city, is simply superb !

Among other things that I looked into
were the dungeons in which the disobedient
soldiers were incarcerated. One soldier evi-
dently had a fit of the "blues," and was
thinking of his sweetheart while thus in
durance vile, for he had written on the wall

277

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

of his dungeon the following poetical effu-
sion.

jPobre Lola mia!
En ti siempre estoy pensando,
Por ti estoy siempre llorando
Las desdichas de mis dichas.

(Poor Lola mine! — Of thee always I am thinking, —
For thee always I'm bewailing — The misfortunes of
my fortunes.)

The sun was by this time sinking behind
the ridge, and although it was a glorious
sight to behold I dared not linger to enjoy
it. So I took my weary way back to the
station where, to my surprise, I arrived
considerably ahead of train time. Conse-
quently I sat down in a quiet corner and let
my fancy run riot with the scenes I had just
been looking at and with those other more
stirring scenes that they recalled. The
sharp, shrill whistle of the locomotive recalled
me to modernity and I soon found myself
back in Valencia.

There are two things about Valencia that
are more characteristic than anything else,

278

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RIGHT END.

-'.., I

CAVES OF LEFT END.

ROMAN THEATER AT SAGUNTO.

VALENCIA

and I have intentionally left them until the
last. The first is its celebrated pottery.
The jars and vases of this ware are never put
up in ugly shapes, and the prevailing colors
of the decorations on the cream-brown foun-
dation are old gold and burnished blue. The
other thing to which I referred is the Tribu-
nal de las Aguas, or Tribunal of the Waters,
which meets every Thursday morning, and
controls all the irrigation of the Vega de
Valencia. To my mind there is no better
description of this ancient institution than
that given by the celebrated Valencian writer
Vicente Blasco Ibanez in his masterpiece,
La Barraca, and I cannot resist the tempta-
tion to quote:

"It was Thursday, and according to a
custom hallowed by five centuries of observ-
ance, the Tribunal de las Aguas was going
to hold a session in front of the Puerta de los
Apostoles of the Cathedral.

'The clock on the Miguelete showed the
hour to be a few minutes past ten, and the
inhabitants of the Huerta de Valencia were
congregating in small groups or sitting on the

279

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

edge of the dry fountain that adorns the plaza,
forming about its basin an animated garland
of blue and white mantles, red and yellow
kerchiefs and percale skirts of bright, gay
colors.

"Some came up leading their horses or
mules by the head-strap, the animals being
loaded with saddlebags of woven reeds filled
to the brim with manure: manure which
they had gladly collected from the streets
during the early hours of the morning.
Others, in empty carts, tried to soften the
hearts of the police, and persuade those
worthies to allow them and their carts to
remain where they were. And while the
old men chatted with the women, the young
fellows betook themselves to the near-by
cafe in order to kill time over a glass of fire-
water while they industriously chewed on
the end of a two-for-a-cent cigar.

"Everyone in the Huerta who had any
grudges to avenge, or damages to claim,
was there, pigheaded and gesticulating wildly,
as he talked of his rights, and impatiently
awaited the moment when, in the presence

280

VALENCIA: CATHEDRAL. PUERTA DE LOS APOSTOLES
Angel Photograph.

VALENCIA

of the Sindics, or Judges of the Seven Irrigat-
ing Canals, he might let loose the intermina-
ble rosary of his complaints.

"The Constable of the Tribunal, who had
waged battle for more than fifty years against
that insolent and aggressive herd, set up,
in the shade of the ogival door, the parts of
an old sofa of damask. Afterwards he put
up a long, low iron railing, thereby enclosing
that part of the sidewalk that was to serve
as audience-chamber.

"The old reddish-brown Puerta de los
Apostoles, worn by time and holding up its
weather-beaten beauties to the light of the
sun, formed a background worthy of the
ancient Tribunal: it seemed like a stone
canopy made expressly to shelter a five-
century-old institution.

"In the tympanum appeared the Virgin,
surrounded by six chub-cheeked angels, who
wore stiff albs and exhibited fine-plumed
wings, flaming foretops and heavy curls as
they played upon violas, flutes, flageolets
and drums. In the three arches of the door-
way ran three garlands of little figures of

281

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

angels, kings, and saints, sheltered under
their fretwork canopies. In the strong,
massive advance-supports of the doorway
one sees the Twelve Apostles, but so weather-
beaten and disfigured that Christ Himself
would scarcely be able to recognize them.
Their feet are worn away, their noses broken,
their hands cut off; a row of grotesque
figures. Rather than Apostles they appear
like so many cripples who have escaped from
some clinic and are painfully showing off their
misshapen stumps. Above the portal the rose
window which gives light to the church opens
up like a gigantic colored flower covered with
wire net, while at the lower surface of the
portal, at the base of the columns adorned
with the arms of Aragon, the stone has been
worn away and the aristas and leafage have
been blurred by the rubbing of innumerable
generations of hands and shoulders.

"In this ruin of the portal one could di-
vine the passage of sedition and revolution.
Beside these stones a whole people had con-
gregated and united: there, in centuries past,
oriental Valencianism, vociferous and red-

282

VALENCIA

faced, had been agitated, and the saints of
the portal, mutilated and smooth, like Egyp-
tian mummies, seemed, as they looked up
toward heaven, to be listening still to the
revolutionary bell of the Union, or the shots
of the Germanias.

"The Alguacil finished arranging the Tri-
bunal and placed himself at the entrance to
the enclosure, to await the arrival of the
judges. They came up one by one, solemn
of countenance, with the outward appearance
of well-to-do farmers, dressed in black, with
white hemp slippers, and under the broad
brimmed hats a silk kerchief wound around
the head. Each one was followed by a crowd
of ditch-guards and solicitors who, before
the hour of court, were trying to predispose
the mind of the judge in their favor.

"The farming people look with respect
on these judges, who have risen from their
own class, and whose decisions admit of no
appeal. They are the masters of the water:
in their hands lie the life of the families, the
nourishment of the fields, the opportune
watering, the lack of which kills a whole

283

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

harvest. And the inhabitants of the exten-
sive prairie divided by the river, which
forms as it were a frontier that cannot be
passed, designate the judges by the names of
the canals they represent.

"A wizened, bent old man, whose horny
red hands trembled as he leaned upon his
thick staff, was Cuart de Feitenar; the other,
stout and majestic, with little eyes that were
scarcely visible under his bushy white eye-
brows, was Mislata; a little later along came
Rascafia, a fine, bullet-headed young fellow
in a well ironed blouse; and after them the
others arrived one by one until their number
of seven was complete: Favara, Robella,
Tormos, and Mestalla.

"Now the representatives of both Vegas
were present: those of the Vega of the right
bank of the river, the one which has four
irrigating canals and includes the orchard
of Ruzafa with its shady roads which are
lost from sight on the borders of the marshy
Albuf era ' ; and those of the Vega of the left

1 The Albufera is a large body of water some fifteen or
eighteen miles in length and separated from the Mediter-

284

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VALENCIA

bank of the Turia, the poetic Vega, the one
renowned for the strawberries of Benimaclet,
and for the edible cyperus (chufa) of Albo-
raya, and for its gardens eternally overrun
with flowers.

"The seven judges greeted each other as
people do who have not seen each other for
a week. They stood near the door of the
cathedral talking of their affairs; and as the
doors, covered with religious notices, swung
open from time to time, there floated out
into the sultry atmosphere of the plaza a
gust of cool air surcharged with the odor of
incense, as it were the damp breath of some
subterranean cavern.

"At half-past eleven, when the divine
service was finished, and when people, except
for some belated devote, no longer were com-
ing out of the Basilica, the Tribunal began
its work.

"The seven judges sat down on the old

ranean by a narrow wooded strip of land varying from six
to twenty feet above the level of the sea. Although its
waters are now sweet, it is the last relic of the time when
the Mediterranean covered all the coast plain of Valencia.

285

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

sofa. From all sides of the plaza the farmers
ran up to gather about the grille in a compact
mass of sweaty bodies which exhaled a
strong odor of straw and coarse wool. The
Alguadl, stiff and majestic, stationed himself
beside the staff, surmounted by a bronze
boathook, which was the symbol of this
aquatic justice.

"The judges, after taking off their hats,
sat with their hands clasped between their
knees and their eyes fixed on the ground.
Then the oldest of them pronounced the
customary phrase: S'obri el tribunal (the
Tribunal is open).

"A hush fell upon the place. The whole
crowd, observing a religious silence, behaved
itself there in the midst of the plaza as though
it were a temple. The creaking of the carts,
the rattle of the horsecars, all the noises of
modern life passed without touching or
affecting that venerable institution which
sat there tranquilly, like a person in his own
home, heedless of time, unmindful of the
radical change of everything that surrounded
it, and incapable of any reform.

286

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VALENCIA

"The farmers are proud of their Tribunal.
That is the way to administer justice: the
penalty sharp and immediate, and no red
tape in which honest men became involved
and confused. The absence of stamped
paper and of the terrifying notary was what
most pleased some persons who were in the
habit of regarding with a certain supersti-
tious terror the art of writing, of which they
were in ignorance. Here there were no
secretaries, no pens, no days of anguish
spent in awaiting the sentence, no terrorizing
guards; nor anything but mere words.

" The judges kept the declarations and
testimony in their minds, and gave sentence
immediately with the calmness of persons
who know that their decisions must be ful-
filled. The one who was guilty of contempt
of court was fined: from him who refused to
obey the orders and fulfill the sentences of
the court they took away the irrigating water
and he died of hunger.

"No one played with that Tribunal. It
was the patriarchal and simple justice of
the good king of legendary fame, who went

287

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

to the door of his palace every morning to
settle the complaints of his subjects: the
judicial system of the tribal chief pronouncing
sentence at the door of his tent. This is the
way in which rascals are punished; thus it is
that honest men triumph and there is peace.

"And the public, not wishing to lose a
word, men, women and children crowded
up against the iron grille, shaking themselves
from time to lime with violent movements
of the shoulders in order to free themselves
from the stifling atmosphere.

"On the other side of the grille the litigants
passed one after another before the sofa, as
venerable as the Tribunal itself. The Algua-
cil took up their sticks and staves, consider-
ing them to be offensive arms incompatible
with the respect due the Tribunal: he pushed
the litigants along until he left them planted
a few steps away from the judges, their
blankets folded over their hands. And if
they were a little slow in uncovering their
heads, with two sharp tugs he tore off the
kerchief. Severe ? But that is the way one
has to treat that sly crowd.

288

VALENCIA

"The defile was a continual exposition
of intricate questions which the lay judges
decided with astounding ease. The Guards
of the Irrigating Canals and the Atandadores,
whose duty it is to settle the order in which
each one shall have his turn at irrigation,
formulated the complaints and the defend-
ants appeared for the purpose of expounding
their defense. An old man would be repre-
sented by his sons, who knew how to express
themselves with greater energy. A widow
would appear accompanied by some friend
of her husband, a recognized protector who
spoke in her behalf.

"Tropical ardor showed itself in all the
cases. In the midst of the indictment the
defendant could no longer contain himself.
' It's a lie ! What they say is false and wicked.
They want to ruin me!' But the seven
judges received such interruptions with wrath-
ful glances. There no one could talk until
his turn came. At a second interruption
the defendant would be heavily fined. And
there was now and then a hard-headed fellow
who paid sou after sou, driven on by that

289

RAMBLES IN SPAIN

raging vehemence which would not let him
hold his tongue in the presence of his accuser.

"The judges, without leaving the bench,
put their heads together, like playful goats,
whispered a few minutes in a low tone, and
then the oldest, in a calm and solemn voice,
pronounced sentence, giving the fines in
pounds and sous, as if the currency had
undergone no transformation and as if the
majestic Justice were still in the habit of
passing through the center of the plaza
dressed in his long scarlet robe and accom-
panied by his escort of Knights of the Pen."

Some distance south of Valencia is the
city of Elche, where was recently discovered an
exquisite terra-cotta bust of a Roman Lady.
To see it we must go to Paris> where we shall
find it in the Louvre. But we ought still to
visit Elche, for its Palm Grove, covering the
Vega in every direction and closing right in
about the city, is one of the most interesting
scenes in Spain. We should make this visit
in August, despite the heat, and should
remain during the whole fete of the Assump-
tion (13th — 15th) for thus we should see

290

VALENCIA

the Representation of the Assumption of Our
Lady Saint Mary, a fourteenth century
liturgical drama. As the theater or stage
for the performance is the whole city, we
naturally compare it with the Festspiel of
Rothenburg: Der Meistertrunk. But as it
has a religious topic our thoughts turn still
more inevitably to the Passion Play of
Oberammergau.

291

INDEX

Where more than one reference has been given, the pages where the prin-
cipal treatment of the subject occurs have been set in heavy-faced type.

Abderrahman (of Segovia),

104.
Academia de Nobles Artes de

San Fernando (at Madrid),

144.
Acropolis, 162.
Acuedueto de las Ferreras (at

Tarragona), 258.
Adaja (River), 81.
Africa, 8, 21, 175.
Agustinas (Conventual Church

of the) at Salamanca, 129.
Alameda de Hercules (at Se-

villa), 190.
Alarcon (Pedro Antonio de),

29.
Alarcon (Juan Ruiz de), 27.
Alas (Leopoldo) vide Clarin.
Alava, 62, 64.
Albaicin (at Granada), 213,
Alboraya, 285.
Albufera, 284.

Alcala de Henares, 154-159.
Alcala (University of), 121,

146, 154-156, 158.
Alcantara (Order of), 126-127.
Alcantara (Town), 126.
Alcazaba (at Malaga), 201.
Alcazar (The), at Segovia, 94,

97, 107-108, 110, 111; at

Sevilla, 183-184, 213; at

Toledo, 161, 162-163, 168.
Alderdi-Eder (Parque de), 47,

55.
Aleman (Mateo), 27.
Alexander IV (Pope), 121.

Alfonso V (of Aragon), 243.
Alfonso VI (of Castile and

Leon), 70-71.
Alfonso VIII, 55.
Alfonso IX, (of Leon), 120.
Alfonso X (el Sabio), 108, 122.
Alfonso XII, 16, 17.
Alfonso XIII, 7, 15, 16, 153.
Alhama, 202.

Alhambra (Tales of the), 3, 212.
Alhambra (The), 183,211-212.
Aljaferia (Castillo de la), 227.
Almoyna (at Barcelona), 242.
Alonso (Infante, brother of

Isabella the Catholic), 77.
Altamira y Crevea (Rafael), 7.
Alvar Fanez (Minaya), 160.
Alvar Garcia (of Navarre), 87.
America, 50, 58, 248.
American Review of Reviews,

19n.
Americans (The), 4, 5, 22, 28,

29, 68, 151, 180, 220.
Amphitruo, 275.
Andaluda, 171-191, 264.
Andria, 275.

Ansurez (Count Pedro), 79.
Apartado (The), 187-190.
Aqueduct (Roman): at Sego-
via, 92-93, 110, 111, 258;

at Tarragona, 256-258.
Arabs (The), 174, 176, 265.
Aragon (Kingdom), 11, 78,

217, 222, 223, 227, 243, 246,

282.
Aragon (Kings of), 246.

293

INDEX

Aranda (Count of, Spanish
Ambassador at Paris), 6.

Aranjuez, 151-152.

Arbues (Inquisitor Pedro), 218.

Archidona, 202.

Archiepiscopal Palace (at Al-
cala), 156-157.

Archivo General de la Corona
de Aragon, 246.

Arco (Marques del), 108.

Arcos (Duke of), 196.

Arlanza (City) 85n.-86n.

Armada, 12.

Assis (Francis of), 14, 144.

Asturias (Prince of), 69.

Atandadores de las Acequias
(at Valencia), 289.

Atarfe, 202.

Atche (Rafael), 238.

Audiencia: at Barcelona, 245-
246; at Valencia, 267.

Auto da fe, 146.

Averroes, 173.

A vila, 31, 79-89.

Axe (Order of the), 265.

Ay de mi Alhama (ballad), 202.

Aza (Vital), 29.

Azcarate (Gumersindo), 148-
150.

Azcoitia, 68.

Azoguejo (Plaza del), at Sego-
via, 91, 92.

Azpeitia, 68.

Babieca (The Cid's charger),
77, 265.

Bamba (King), 169.

Bank of Spain (at Madrid),
144.

Bafio de la Cava (at Toledo),
168.

Barcelona, 21, 31, 235, 238-
250, 264, 268.

Barcelona (Counts of), 246.

Barceloneta (suburb of Barce-
lona), 244.

Barres (Maurice), 163.

Barroso y Castillo (Antonio),

24.
Basque Provinces (The), 35-

64.
Basques (The), 62-63.
Beatus, 78.
Belles- Lettres, 10.
Benedict XIII (Anti-Pope),

222; vide Luna (Papa).
Benedict XIII (Pope), 236.
Bengoechea (Ambrosio de),

53.
Benimaclet, 285.
Berceo (Gonzalo de), 86n.
Berruguete (Alonso), 164.
Biarritz, 60.
Bidassoa River, 37, 60.
Bilbao, 63; Bilbao swords, 64.
Biscay (vide also Bizcaya), 17;

Bay of, 42, 46.
Bizcaya, 18, 62, 63.
Bizet (George), 33.
Blasco Ibanez (Vicente), 29,

279.
Boabdil, 211.
Bobadilla, 197, 201.
Boetius, 9.

Bologna (University of), 121.
Bonaparte (Joseph), 13.
Bonilla y San Martin (Adolfo),

7.
Boquerones (at Malaga), 198.
Bourbons (The), 13, 14, 243.
Bowery (The), 239.
Britain, 18.
British (The), 64.
British Cemetery (at Malaga),

198.
Briviesca, 69.
Brussels, 241.
Bryant (W. C), 4.
Buen Pastor (Church), at San

Sebastian, 54.
Buen Retiro (Park of Madrid),

142.
Burgos, 31, 69-77.
Byron (Lord), 202, 225.

294

INDEX

CXdiz, 9.

Cafe Colon (at Barcelona), 242.

Cafe de Espana (at Valencia),

266.
Cafe de Oriente (at Barcelona),

247.
Cafe del Liceo (at Barcelona),

239.
Cafe Hernan Cortes (near

Malaga), 199.
Cafe Leon de Oro (at Valencia),

269.
Cafe Lion d'Or (at Valencia),

269.
Cafe zum Goldenen Lowe (at

Valencia), 269.
Calahorra, 9.
Calatayud, 9.
Calatrava (Order of), 126-127,

166; Knights of the Order of

Calatrava, 126.
Calderon de la Barca (Pedro),

27.
Caleta (suburb of Malaga),

199.
Caligula, 9.
Calle de Alcala (at Madrid)

144.
Calle de Fortuny (at Madrid),

r, 151-

Calle de la Independencia (at

Zaragoza), 223.
Calle de las Sierpes (at Sevilla),

r, 190-

Calle del Arenal (at Madrid),
145.

Calle del Coso (at Zaragoza),
222.

Calle Mayor (at Alcala), 158.

Camarin de la Virgen (at
Montserrat), 234.

Campo de Marte (at Tarra-
gona), 256.

Campotejar (Marques de),
210.

Canalejas y Mendez (Jose),
21, 22, 24.

Cano (Alonso), 206.

Canonja (at Barcelona), 242.

Canovas del Castillo (Antonio),
16.

Cantabrian Mountains, 42.

Capilla de San Jorge (at Barce-
lona), 246.

Capilla Real de Santa Agueda
(at Barcelona), 247.

Capilla de Santa Lucia (of the
Cathedral at Barcelona),
241.

Capilla de Talavera (of the
Old Cathedral in Salamanca)
120.

Captivi, 275.

Cardinal Archbishop of Toledo,
254.

Carlist War, 14, 48.

Carlos (Don), 48.

Carmen, 33.

Carrion (Miguel Ramos), 29.

Carthaginians (The), 265, 275,
276.

Cartuja de Miraflores (Con-
vent), 76.

Casa de la Diputacion (of
Catalufla), 242, 245.

Casa de la Infanta (at Zara-
goza), 222.

Casa de la Salina (at Sala-
manca), 127.

Casa de las Conchas (at Sala-
manca), 116, 132.

Casa de las Muertes (at Sala-
manca), 127, 132.

Casa de los Picos (at Segovia),
108-109.

Casa de los Tiros (at Granada),
210-211.

Casa de Pilatos (at Sevilla),

Casa de Segovia, 108.

Casa de Zaporta (at Zaragoza),

222.
Casa del Cabildo Antigua (at

Granada), 206.

295

INDEX

Casa Gremial de los Zapateros Charlemagne, 9.

(at Barcelona), 241. Charles I (of Spain). Vide

Casa Lonja: at Sevilla, 184; Charles V, 11.

at Zaragoza, 221-222. Charles II (of Spain), 12, 146.

Casado (J.), 143. Charles III, 13.

Casino (at San Sebastian), 42, Charles IV, 13.

45, 46, 47, 48, 55. Charles V (Emperor), 11, 12,

Casino de la Amistad (at 175, 247.

Cordoba), 178. Charles d'Anjou, 252.

Casita del Principe (at the Chief Justice of Aragon, 223.

Escorial), 154. Childe Harold, 225.

Cassiodorus, 9. Chile, 12, 50.

Castellana (Paseo de la) at Chorro of the Guadalhorce

Madrid, 140. River, 201.

Castile. Vide New Castile, and Christ, 123, 196, 219, 240, 282.

Old Castile. Christ (The Names of), 123.

Castilian Days, 4. Christendom, 10, 203, 240.

Castillo de la Aljaferfa (at Christians (The), 57, 176, 196.

Zaragoza), 227. Church (The), 21.

Castro (Guillen de), 27. Cid (Las Mocedades del), of

Cataluna, 12, 17, 31, 229-259. Castro, 27.

Catharine of Aragon (First wife Cid (Le), of Corneille, 27.

of Henry VIII of England), Cid (Poema del), 77.

156. Cid Campeador (The), 70, 71,

Cathedral: at Avila, 86-88; 76, 77, 117, 145, 160, 162,

at Barcelona, 240-241 ; at 265, 267, 276.

Burgos, 70, 71-75, 164; at Cigarreras, 184.

Cordoba, 175-177; at Gra- Cisneros (Cardinal), 146, 157.

nada, 204-206; at Leon, 163; City Hall: at Granada, 207;

at Lerida, 231; at Malaga at Sevilla, 190.

198; at Oviedo, 163; at Ciudadela (Parque y Jardines,

Salamanca, 116-118, 118- at Barcelona), 247.

120, 163; at Segovia, 93-94; Clamores (River), 96.

at Sevilla, 163, 179-182; at Clarin (Leopoldo Alas), 29.

Tarragona, 254-255; at To- Claudius, 9.

ledo, 163-165; at Valencia, Clement XI (Pope), 78.

266-267, 279-282; at Zara- Cocido, 40.

goza, 217-218, 218-221, 235. Cofradias (at Sevilla), 182-183.

Catholic Kings, 116, 122, 132, Colada, 145.

166, 202, 203, 206, 207. Colegio de Nobles Irlandeses

Ceca (The), 174. (at Salamanca), 128.

Celestina, 26. Colegio de Santiago Apostol

Celts (The), 63. (at Salamanca), 128.

Central Park, 142, 247. College of Noble Irishmen (at

Cervantes, 27, 140, 156, 157, Salamanca), 128.

^ 161, 173, 177, 227-228. Colombine Library, 181.

Cervera, 243. Colonics (American), 6.

296

INDEX

Columbus (Christopher), 125, Darro (River), 207.

203, 207, 238-239. Degotalls (Camino de los), at

Columella, 9. Montserrat, 237.

Commercial Awakening (Spain's) Diana (Temple of, at Valencia)

19n. 266.

Commission of Public Monu- Diaz de Bivar (Ruy). Vide Cid

ments, 166. Campeador (The), 70.

Complutensian polyglot Bible, Diaz Ramirez de Guzman

156. (Alonso). Vide Erauso (Do-

Comuneros (The), 107. na Catalina de), 50.

Concha (La, at San Sebastian), Diclionnaire de I'usage, 25n.

60. Diputacion (Palacio de la),

Concha (Paseo de la), 47, 48. at San Sebastian, 54.

Concordat, 22. Dominicans, 112.

Congress (Palace of the) at Dominici (Vita Beati), 86n.

Madrid, 140. Don Gil de las Cahas Verdes,

Continent (The), 42. 79.

Coplas of Jorge Manrique, 4. Don Quijote de la Mancha, 27,

Cordoba, 9, 10, 31, 173-178, 37.

197. Doric Style, 205.

Cordoba (Caliphate of), 174. Durans (Vidal), 218.
Corinthian Style, 205.

Corneille (Jean), 27. Ebro (River), 217.

Cornielis (sculptor from the Echegaray (Jose), 29, 30.

Netherlands), 86n. Echena, 55.

Cossio (Manuel B.), 7. Economic Revival (Spain's),

Cotarelo y Mori (Emilio) 7. 19n.

Covarrubias Orozco (Sebastian Edward I (of England), 70.

de), 25. El Paular (Monastery), 98-

Cristina (Queen Regent and 107.

Queen Mother), 153, 208, Elche, 290-291.

210. Eleanor of Castile, 70.

Cristo de la Victoria (Church at Elvira and Sol (daughters of

Malaga), 201. the Cid), 77, 267.

Crusca (Accademia della), 26n. Embarcadero de la Paz (at

Cuba, 62. Barcelona), 244, 245.

Cuitlaxtla (Mexico), 51. Encierro (The), 187-190.

Cyclopean Gate (at Tarra- Encina (Juan del), 198.

gona), 256. England, 6, 13, 14, 17, 28, 64,

Cyclopean Walls (at Tarra- 70, 116.

gona), 253. English (The), 13, 28, 248, 249.

Enrique IV (of Castile), 77.

Dacian, 224. Epigrams (The, of Martial), 9.

Damascus (Caliphate of), 174. Episcopal Palace (at Barce-

Dancing, 43-45, 47, 52, 184, lona), 242.

190, 211-212, 213-214. Erauso (Dona Catalina de),

Dante, 25. 49-51.

297

INDEX

Eresma (River), 96, 97, 109.

Escalonia (at Montserrat), 234.

Escolapians (The), 268.

Escolapios (Convento de los),
at Valencia, 268-269.

Escorial (The). Vide San Lo-
renzo del Escorial, 89, 152-
154.

Escuelas Pias (Convento de
las), at Valencia, 268-269.

Estacion de Cadiz (at Sevilla),
195.

Estalla, 50.

Estremadura, 67, 126.

Estudiantinas, 155-156.

Etymologies (of Isidor of Se-
ville), 9.

Europe, 8, 10, 12, 13, 26, 27,
28, 30, 32, 37, 38, 42, 47, 63,
78, 121, 122, 137, 139, 145,
174, 179, 205.

Exchange (The), at Madrid,
140.

Eylo (Countess Dona), 79.

Fajardo, 50.

Fancelli (Domenico), 87n, 157.

Faversham (Mr. and Mrs.

William), 30.
Ferdinand I (of Castile), 85n.
Ferdinand III, 71.
Ferdinand VII, 13, 14.
Ferdinand the Catholic, 11, 78,

80, 201, 206.
Ferguson (James), 204 and

note.
Feria (at Sevilla), 178, 190.
Fernan Gonzalez (Count of

Castile), 70, 71, 87.
Ferrer y Cafranga (Don Jose

Joaquin), 56-57.
Filadelfia, vide Philadelphia.
Fiske (Mrs. Minnie Maddern),

29.
FitzGerald (Edward), 28.
Fitzmaurice-Kelly (Jame s),

51n.

Flemish School of Painting,

141.
Floral Games (at Valencia),

273.
Florinda (La Cava), 168-169.
Fonseca (Family), 127, 130.
Fortuny (Mariano), 33, 242.
Fountain of Blood (at Zara-

goza), 222, 223.
France, 5, 6, 13, 56, 74, 98.
Francia, vide France.
Francis of Assis, 14, 144.
Francoli (River), 258.
Franco-Prussian War, 4.
French (The), 4, 13, 64, 140,

142.
French Academy, 25n.
Frontier Wars, 196.
Fuencisla (Santuario de), 110,

112.
Fuenfria (River), 92.
Fuente de la Sangre (at Zara-

goza), 222, 223.
Fuente de Neptuno (at Ma-
laga), 200.

Galicia, 79, 126.
Gautier (Theophile), 75.
Gaya (River near Tarragona),

258.
Gayangos y Arce (Pascual de),

7.
Genii (River), 207.
Genoa, 200.
Germanias (Las), 283.
Germans (The), 4.
Germany, 73.
Giants and Dwarfs, 217.
Gibralfaro (at Malaga), 201.
Gibraltar, 13, 197.
Gigantes y Cabezudos, 217.
Gil Bias, 78, 108.
Gil y Zarate (Antonio), 29.
Giralda (La), 181-182.
Gisbert (A.), 143, 200.
Gloria, Laus et Honor (Teo-

dolfo's Hymn), 10.

298

INDEX

Glories of Spain (of Wood),

232.
Godoy (Manuel), 144.
Gonsalvo de Cordoba (El Gran

Capitan), 174.
Gonzalo de Berceo. Vide Ber-

ceo (Gonzalo de), 86n.
Good Friday (at Sevilla), 178-

179.
Gordon (Alice). Vide Gulick

(Mrs. Alice Gordon).
Gothic Architecture in Spain.

Vide Street (G. E.), 71, 93,

119 231.
Goya '(Francisco), 32, 141. 142,

145.
Gran Cafe (at Zaragoza),

224.
Gran Capitan (El). Vide Gon-
salvo de Cordoba.
Gran Galeoto (El, of Echegaray),

30.
Granada (City), 31, 197, 201,

202, 203-214, 217.
Granada (Kingdom), 11, 193-

214, 203.
Granada (The Surrender of),

145.
Grao (El. at Valencia), 269.
Greeks, 10. 265.
Grimaldus (The Monk), 86n.
Guadarrama Mountains, 92,

97, 99, 138.
Guadalajara, 159.
Guadalhorce (River), 197, 201.
Guadalquivir (River), 177, 178,
- 183.
Guards of the Irrigating Canal

(at Valencia), 289.
Guevara (Antonio de), 27.
Guildhouses, 241.
Guillermo II (Patiarch of Jeru-
salem), 243.
Guimera (Angel), 29, 30.
Guipuzcoa, 38, 54, 55, 62, 63;

Plaza de — , at San Sebas-
tian, 47, 51, 54.

Gulick (Mrs. Alice Gordon),

147-151.
Gumiel (Pedro), 158.
Gypsies, 190, 213-214.
Gypsy Dances, 213-214.

Hacha (Orden de la), 265.
Hadrian (Emperor), 191.
Hannibal, 275.
Hapsburg dynasty, 13.
Hapsburgs (The), 13, 206.
Havana, 6.
Hay (John), 4.
Henares River, 160.
Hendaya, 37, 60.
Henry II, 94.

Henry VIII (of England), 156.
Hernan Cortes (Cafe near

Malaga), 199.
Herodias, 232.
Hieronymites, 112.
Hill (Frank D.), 19n.
Hispan (King), 111.
Hispanic Society of America,

33, 191.
Historical Society of Sagunto,

276.
Holy Sepulcher (Church, at

Jerusalem), 109, 243.
Holy Spirit (Convent of the)

at Salamanca, 132.
Holy Week (at Sevilla), 178,

182
Hontafion (Gil de), 93, 158.
Hoyo of the Guadalhorce

River, 197, 201.
Huerta de Valencia, 267, 279,

280.
Huesca (The Bell of), 143.
Huesca (University of), 143.
Hume (Major Martin A. S.),

15, 18, 146.

Iberians (The), 265.
Ibn Hud, 200.
Igueldo (Monte), 41, 60.
Imperial Canal, 226.

299

INDEX

Independence (War of, in

Spain), 64.
Infantado (Duque del), 160.
Inquisition (The), 13, 14, 122,

123, 227.
Institutes of Oratory (of Quin-

tillian), 9.
Instituto Internacional para

la Ensenanza de la Mujer,

147-151.
In the Bishop's Carriage, 26.
Ionic Style, 205.
Ireland, 63.
Irun, 37, 58, 60, 61.
Irving (Washington), 3, 7,

212.
Isabella I (the Catholic), 11, 77,

78, 80, 107, 206, 207.
Isabella II, 14, 48, 144.
Isabella (of Portugal, second

wife of John II of Castile),

77.
Isidor of Seville, 9.
Italian Renaissance Style, 206.
Italian School of Painting, 141.
Italica, 31, 190.

Jaime (Don, Carlist Pre-
tender), 14.

Jaime el Conquistador, 254.

James I (of Aragon), 254.

Japanese (The), 63.

Jerusalem, 109, 240, 243.

Jesuits (The), 13, 268.

Jesus (The Society of), 68.

Jews (The), 166.

Jimena (wife of the Cid). Vide
Ximena.

Joanna the Mad, 206.

John (Prince, only son of
Ferdinand and Isabella),
80.

John II (of Castile), 76-77.

Joseph (King, of Spain), 64.

Jourdan (Marshal), 64.

Juana la Loca, 206.

Judas Iscariot, 196.

Judges of the Seven Irrigating
Canals (at Valencia), 281,
285, 286. 287, 288, 289, 290.

Juegos Florales (at Valencia),
273.

Julian (Count), 168.

Junot (Marshal), 227.

Jurisprudence (Roman), 10.

Kerb (Robert), 204n.

La Barraca (of Blasco Ibafiez),

279-290.
La Escalonia (at Montserrat),

234.
La Grajera (at Segovia), 94,

110.
La Granja, 89, 90, 91, 97-98,

99, 100, 101, 106.
La Magistral (Church at Al-

eala), 157, 158.
La Mancha, 173.
La Numancia (of Cervantes),

227-228.
La Roda, 197.
La Seo (Cathedral at Zara-

goza), 217-218.
La Virgen del Pilar (Cathedral

at Zaragoza), 218-221, 235.
Lafayette (Marquis de), 58.
Laila and Manuel (by

Southey), 202.
Lannes (Marshal), 227.
Lanuza (Juan de), 223.
Larios (Marques de), 200.
Larra (Mariano Jose de), 29.
Latin Ritual, 120.
Lauria (Admiral Roger de),

252.
Lazarillo de Tormes, 26.
Le Sage, 78.
Leaning Tower (at Zaragoza),

221-222.
Lebrija. Vide Nebrija.
Legazpi (Miguel Lopez de),

68.
Leo X (Pope), 157.

300

INDEX

Leon (Fray Luis de), 122-124,
132; his lecture room in the
University of Salamanca,
122-124.

Leon (Kingdom), 11, 67, 78,
79, 120, 137.

Lepanto (Battle of), 12, 145,
228.

Lerida, 231, 232.

Levi (Samuel), 166.

Liverpool (University of), 51n.

Llobregat (River), 232, 233.

Llobregat (Valley), 232, 233,
236, 237, 248.

Lockhart, J. G., 28.

Loja, 202.

London, 51n., 129.

Longfellow (Henry Wads-
worth), 4, 7.

Lonja de la Seda (at Valencia),
271-272.

Lord's Supper (The), 220.

Los Hidalgos, 146n.

Louvre (The), 140, 290.

Lovers' Crag, 201-202.

Lowell (James Russell), 7.

Loyola (Francisco de), 50.

Loyola, San Ignacio de, (con-
vent near Tolosa) 68; (the
man), 68, 232.

Lozoya (River), 101.

Lucan, 9, 173.

Lucia (Fair), 226.

Luke (Saint), 235.

Luna (Counts of), 222, 227.

Luna (Papa), 222-223.

Lynch (Miss Hannah), 163.

Machete Vitoriano, 64.
Madrazo, 32-33, 144.
Madrid, 3, 23, 69, 137-151,

152, 156, 161, 197, 201, 217.
Madrid (University of), 23,

145-146.
Madrigal (Bishop Alfonso Tos-

tado de), 87n.
Maid of Zaragoza (The), 225.

Malaga, 143, 195, 197-201.
Maldonado (Family), 131.
Manresa, 232.
Marchena, 196.
Maria del Salto, 94, 110.
Maria Luisa (Infanta), 183.
Maria Luisa (Park), 183.
Maria of the Lowlands (of

Guimera), 30.
Martial, 9.

Martinez Ruiz (J.), 146n.
Martircs (Iglesia de los) at

Zaragoza, 224.
Marvaud (Angel), 20n.
Maura y Montaner (Antonio),

21.
Maurice (Bishop), 71.
Maxims (of Quintillian), 9.
Mecca, 174.

Medina del Campo, 115.
Mediterranean Sea, 198, 199,

250, 251, 264, 269, 284n.,

285n.
Meisterlrunk (Der), at Rothen-

burg, 291.
Mendes (Catulle), 89.
Menendez Pidal (Dona Maria

Goyri de), 81.
Menendez Pidal (Ram6n), 7.
Menendez y Pelayo (Marce-

lino) 7.
Menteur (Le), of Corneille, 27.
Mercado (at Malaga), 200.
Mexico, 12, 51.
Mezquita (La), 175.
Micael (Infante), 206.
Michelson (Miriam), 26.
Miguelete (The), at Valencia,

266-267, 279.
Miles Gloriosus, 275.
Ministry of War (at Madrid),

144.
Minor Schools (at Salamanca),

132.
Mint (The, at Segovia), 110.
Mirador de los Monjes (at

Montserrat), 237.

301

INDEX

Miramar (Palacio de), 48.
Miserere (The), 179.
Mississippi (The), 6.
Mistral (Frederic), 30.
Miura bulls, 189-190.
Modern Art Museum (at Ma-
drid), 143, 201, 206.
Modern Spain (by Hume), 15.
Modern Styles of Architecture

(History of), 204n.
Moliere, 27.

Moncey (Marshal), 227.
Monistrol, 232, 237, 238.
Monja AlfSrez (La), 51n.
Montalban (Juan P6rez de),

51n.
Monterey (Palacio de), 127,

132.
Montesa (Castle), 127.
Montesa (Order of), 126, 127.
Montjuich, 244, 247-250.
Montjuich Fortress, 248-249,

250.
Montserrat, 220, 232, 233-237,

238.
Montserrat Monastery, 233-

237.
Moorish Dancing, 211-212,

213-214.
Moorish Dynasties, 174, 200.
Moorish Universities: at Cor-
doba, 207; at Granada, 206;

at Sevilla, 207.
Moors, 10, 11, 126, 160, 168,

174, 176, 184, 196, 227, 235,

264, 265, 276.
Moratin. Vide Fernandez de

Moratfn (Leandro), 29.
Moret y Prendergast (Segis-

mundo), 21, 23.
Moreto y Cabana (Agustm),

27.
Moriscos, 12, 88.
Mortier (Marshal), 227.
Morvilliers (Nicolas Masson

de), 8.
Mosque (at Cordoba), 175.

Mt. Holyoke, 147.

Mouvement Ouvrier en Espagne
(Le), 20n.

Mozarabic Ritual, 120.

Muelle del Levante (at Tarra-
gona), 256.

Munich, 54.

Murbiter, 276.

Murillo (Bartolome Esteban),
32, 141, 144, 180, 190.

Murviedro, 276.

Naples, 11, 174, 252.

Napoleon, 13, 228.

Nasrides (The), 200, 203.

National Archaeological Mu-
seum (at Madrid), 142.

National Archives (at Madrid)
142.

National Library (at Madrid),
142, 197.

National Museums (at Ma-
drid), 142.

Natural History Museum (at
Madrid), 142.

Naval Museum (at Madrid),
145.

Navarrete, 7.

Navas (Conde de Las), 7.

Navy Department (at Ma-
drid), 145.

Nebrija (Don Antonio de), 25.

Netherlands (The), 12, 86n.

New Castile, 11, 67, 100, 135-
170, 137, 173.

New Cathedral, at Salamanca,
116-118.

New England, 147.

New Jersey, 239.

New Orleans, 6.

New World, 11, 184.

New York, 33, 180, 183, 191,
239, 247.

Nobel prize, 30.

Nogales y Nogales (Jose), 29.

North American Review (The),
19n.

302

INDEX

Novelas (of Lope de Vega), 169.

Novelas Exemplares (of Cer-
vantes), 161.

Novicio (Juan Luna), 145, 212.

Nuestra Seflora del Pilar (Ca-
thedral at Zaragoza), 218-
221, 235.

Numancia (La), 227-228.

Numantia, 276.

Nun Ensign (The), 51n.

Nunez de Arce (Gaspar), 29.

Oberammergau, 291.

Ohio (The), 6.

Old Castile, 11, 65-112, 07, 69,
70, 78, 79, 100, 112.

Old Cathedral, at Salamanca,
116, 118-120.

Olla podrida, 40.

Olmo (Jose del), 146.

Omayyades (The), 174.

Oquendo (Admiral Antonio),
48, 49.

Orders (Four Great Military),
126-127. Vide Alcantara,
Calatrava, Montesa, San-
tiago.

Ordonez (Bartolome), 157.

Origines (of Isidor of Seville),
9.

Orleans, 9.

Osuna, 196-197.

Osuna (Dukes of), 196.

Oxford (University of), 121.

Oyarzun, 60.

Paella Valenciana, 40, 263.

Palacio de Generalife (at Gra-
nada), 212-213.

Palacio de la Constitucion (at
San Sebastian), 52.

Palacio de Monterey (at Sala-
manca), 127, 132.

Palacio de Santelmo (at Se-
villa), 183.

Palacio del Duque del Infan-
tado, 160.

Palacio Valdes (Armando), 29.

Palafox, 227.

Palencia (University of), 121.

Pallavicini (Count), 211.

Palm Grove (at Elche), 290.

Palm Sunday, 10, 240.

Palo (near Malaga), 199.

Palomino, 104.

Pancorbo, Garganta de (Gorge
of), 68-69.

Panteon de los Reyes (at the
Escorial), 153.

Pardo Bazan (Emilia), 29.

Paris, 5, 6, 33, 37, 38, 47, 290.

Paris (University of), 121.

Parque y Jardines de la Ciuda-
dela (at Barcelona), 247.

Parral (Monasterio del), at
Segovia, 109, 112.

Parthenon, 164.

Pasajes (de San Juan), 50, 55-
58.

Paseo de Col6n (at Barcelona),
244.

Paseo de Cristina (at Sevilla),
183, 184-185.

Paseo de la Alameda: at Gra-
nada, 207; at Malaga, 199-
200.

Paseo de la Bomba (at Gra-
nada), 207.

Paseo de la Primavera (at
Granada), 207.

Paseo de las Delicias (at Se-
villa), 183.

Paseo de Marina (at Sevilla),
187.

Paseo de Santa Clara (at
Tarragona), 250.

Paseo del Invierno (at Gra-
nada), 207.

Paseo del Salon (at Granada),
207.

Paseo del Verano (at Granada),
207.

Passion Play (at Oberam-
mergau), 291.

303

INDEX

Patio Chico (of the Old Cathe-
dral in Salamanca), 118.

Patio de los Naranjos: at Bar-
celona, 245; at Cordoba, 177;
at Sevilla, 181.

Patriarch of Jerusalem, 243.

Paular (El, Monastery), 98-
107.

Paz y Melia (Antonio), 7.

Pedro (Infante, son of Henry
II), 94.

Pelota (Juego de), 61-62.

Penfield (Frederic Courtland),
19n.

Peninsula (Iberian), 203, 204.

Peninsular War, 13.

Pensacola, 6.

Pena de Aya, 46, 55, 58-61,
100.

Pena de los Enamorados, 201-
202.

Pepita Jime'nez, 28.

Pereda (Jose Maria de), 28,
29.

Perez Galdos (Benito), 29.

Peru, 12.

Peter (Saint), 235.

Peter the Cruel, 166.

Philadelphia, 6, 56.

Philip I, the Beautiful (Arch-
duke of Austria), 13, 206.

Philip II, 12, 137, 152, 154,
223.

Philip II (Life of, by Prescott),
4.

Philip III, 12.

Philip IV, 12.

Philip V, 13, 98.

Philip of Burgundy, 164.

Philippines (The), 68.

Phoenicians (The), 201.

Phormio, 275.

Pi y Margall (Francisco), 16.

Pilate (Pontius), 190, 250-251.

Pilate. Vide Casa de Pilatos,
190.

Pisuerga (River), 79.

Pius IX (Pope), 218.

Plautus, 275.

Plaza de Aragon (at Zaragoza),
223.

Plaza de Isabel II (at Ma-
drid), 145.

Plaza de la Constitucion: at
Malaga, 200; at San Sebas-
tian, 51, 52; at Sevilla, 182;
at Zaragoza, 223.

Plaza de la Fuente (at Tarra-
gona), 255.

Plaza de la Independencia (at
Madrid), 142.

Plaza de la Lealtad (at Ma-
drid), 140.

Plaza de la Victoria: at Malaga
201; at Sevilla, 190.

Plaza de Madrid (at Madrid),
144.

Plaza de Oriente (at Madrid),
145.

Plaza de Riego (at Malaga),
200.

Plaza de San Fernando (at
Sevilla), 190.

Plaza de San Francisco (at
Salamanca), 128.

Plaza de Toros (at Sevilla),
187-190.

Plaza de Zocodover (at To-
ledo), 161, 170.

Plaza del Palacio (at Barce-
lona), 244.

Plaza del Pallol (at Tarra-
gona), 253.

Plaza del Potro (at Cordoba),
177.

Plaza del Rey (at Barcelona),
246, 247.

Plaza Mayor: at Alcala, 158;
at Madrid, 146; at Sala-
manca, 115; at Segovia, 91,
92, 93.

Plazuela de la Universidad (at
Salamanca), 123, 132.

Polentinos (Conde de), 88.

304

INDEX

Pollock (U. S. Special Com-
missioner), 6.

Pomponius Mela, 9.

Pont del Diable (at Tarra-
gona), 258.

Popes (The), 254.

Por la Puente, Juana (of Lope
de Vega), 161-162.

Portugal, 12.

Posada del Llobregat (at Mo-
nistrol), 232-233.

Pradilla (Francisco) 33, 143,
145, 206.

Prado (Park at Madrid),
140.

Prado Museum (at Madrid),
140-142, 144.

Prescott (William Hickling),
4,7.

Primate of All Spain, 254.

Prince of the Peace (The), 144.
Vide Godoy.

Protestants, 199, 220.

Provence, 30.

Provincial Diet: at Salamanca,
127; at Zaragoza, 223.

Prudentius, 9.

Ptolemy, 111.

Puente de Alcantara (at To-
ledo), 161, 169.

Puente de Piedra (at Zara-
goza), 217.

Puente de San Martin (at To-
ledo), 168, 169.

Puerta Ciclopea (at Tarra-
gona), 256.

Puerta de Alcala (at Madrid),
142.

Puerta de Almenara (at Sa-
gunto), 277.

Puerta de los Apostoles (of the
Cathedral at Valencia), 279,
281-283.

Puerta de San Vicente (at
Avila), 86.

Puerta de Serranos (at Valen-
cia), 267-268.

Puerta del Alcazar (at Avila),
86.

Puerta del Portillo (at Zara-
goza), 225.

Puerta del Puente (at Avila),
86.

Puerta del Rosario (at Tarra-
gona), 253.

Puerta del Sol: at Madrid, 139-
140, 145; at Toledo, 169.

Puerta Visagra Antigua (at
Toledo), 169.

Puerto de Reventon, 99, 101,
106.

Pyrenees, 8, 22, 37, 42, 60, 239.

Quevedo (Francisco de), 27.
Quintaner (Marques de), 109.
Quintero brothers, 29.
Quintillian, 9.

Rachel and Vidas (The Jews
of the Poema del Cid), 76.

Rambla de San Juan (at Tarra-
gona), 251, 259.

Ramblas (at Barcelona), 239,
245.

Ramiro II (King of Aragon),
143.

Ramon Berenguer IV, 264.

Raphael, 142.

Rashdall (Hastings; M. A.),
78n.

Rat-Penat (at Valencia), 273.

Real Academia de la Historia,
7.

Real Academia Espanola de la
Lengua, 7, 25.

Real Academia Gallega, 7.

Real Capitana (The), 48, 49.

Recoletos (Paseo de) at Ma-
drid, 140.

Reconquest, 11.

Relacidn Hisfdrica del Auto
General de Fe que se celebrd
en Madrid este aho de 1680,
146n.

305

INDEX

Representation of the Assump-
tion of Our Lady Saint Mary
(at Elche), 290-291.

Revolution (American), 5.

Revue Politique et Parlemen-
taire (La), 20n.

Reynier (Gustave), 79n., 130.

Ribera (Jusepe), 32, 129.

Riff War, 21.

Riverside Drive, 183.

Rivoli (Rue de), 47, 158.

Roca (Duque de la), 88.

Rocroy (Battle of), 12.

Roderick (King), 168.

Roderick, the Last of the Goths,
169.

Rodriguez Porcelos (Diego), 69.

Rojas Villandrando (Agustin
de), 110.

Roman Aqueduct: at Segovia,
92-93, 110, 111, 258; at
Tarragona, 256-258.

Roman Catholic Rites, 205.

Roman Catholics, 220, 268.

Roman Circus, 255.

Roman Lady (Bust discovered
at Elche), 290.

Roman Ritual, 120.

Roman Theater (at Sagunto),
273-275.

Romances, 28.

Romanones (Count of), 23, 24.

Romans (The), 162, 258, 265,
276.

Rome, 10, 50, 144.

Romero-Robledo (Francisco),
16.

Rothenburg, 291.

Rotrou (Jean), 27.

Royal Academy of Fine Arts
(at Madrid), 144-145.

Royal Armory (at Madrid),
145.

Royal Opera House (at Ma-
drid), 145.

Royal Palace (at Madrid),
145.

Royal Stables (at Madrid), 145.
Rubens, 141, 142.
Ruzafa (Orchard), 284.

Sagasta (Praxedes Mateo),

16.
Sagunto, 31, 272-278.
Sagunto: su historia y sus

monumentos, 273.
Saguntum, 275.
St. Anthony of Padua, 180.
St. Christeta, 82-86.
St. Elizabeth of Hungary, 144.
St. Francis, 108.
St. George, 246.
St. Germain (Boulevard), 4.
St. James, 126, 219.
St. Laurence, 152.
St. Michael's Day, 267.
St. Quentin (Battle of), 152.
St. Sabina, 82-86.
St. Vincent, 82-86.
Sala Capitular Antigua (in

Cathedral of Valencia), 266.
Salamanca, 31, 78, 110, 113-

133, 115, 117, 120, 123, 128,

129, 130, 131, 137.
Salamanca (University of),

120-125, 132, 154.
Salome, 232.
Salon (at Paris), 33.
Salon Condal (at Barcelona),

247.
Sal6n de Profundis (in the

Convent of San Esteban at

Salamanca), 125.
San Esteban (Church), at

Segovia, 94-95.
San Esteban (Convent), at

Salamanca, 125.
San Jeronimo (Carrera de) at

Madrid, 140.
San Jeronimo (Chapel of) at

Salamanca, 133.
San Jorge (Capilla de), 246.
San Juan de los Reyes (at To-
ledo), 168.

306

INDEX

San Lorenzo del Escorial, 89,
152-154.

San Miguel (Church), at Vi-
toria, 64.

San Pablo (Church), at Zara-
goza, 226.

San Pedro (Church), at Avila,
80.

San Pedro de Arlanza (Royal
Monastery), 85n.-86n.

San Pedro de Cardena (Con-
vent), 77.

San Ponce de Tomeras (Abbot
of), 143.

San Salvador (Cathedral) at
Avila, 86-88.

San Sebastian, 22, 38-55, 58,
60, 62, 63, 67, 116, 148.

San Sebastian el Antiguo (Con-
vent), 49.

San Vincente (Church): at
Avila, 82-86; at San Sebas-
tian, 53.

Sancho (Abbot Don), 77.

Sancho (King of Castile), 70.

Sangredo (Doctor), 78.

Santa Agueda: Chapel at
Barcelona, 247; Church at
Burgos, 70.

Santa Ana (Church at Barce-
lona), 243.

Santa Clara (Island), 42, 60.

Santa Cruz (Convent), at
Segovia, 109, 112.

Santa Engracia (Church at
Zaragoza), 223.

Santa Faustina, 56-67.

Santa Fe, 202-203.

Santa Maria (Arco de), at
Burgos, 71.

Santa Maria (Church): at
Alcala, 157; at San Sebastian,
53.

Santa Maria de la Seo (Church
at Manresa), 232.

Santa Maria del Mar (Church
at Barcelona), 243-244.

Santa Maria del Pino (Church

at Barcelona), 240.
Santa Maria La Blanca (at

Toledo), 166.
Santa Maria Maggiore (at

Rome), 144.
Santa Teresa, 88-89.
Santa Teresa (Convent), at

Avila, 88.
Santa Teresa (Puerta de), at

Avila, 86.
Santander, 147.
Santas Creux (Cistercian Con-
vent), 252.
Santas Masas (Iglesia de las),

at Zaragoza, 224.
Santiago (Church at Utrera),

196.
Santiago (Order of), 126.
Santiago (Suburb of Sala-
manca), 128.
Santiago de Compostela, 126.
Santillana (Marques de), 196.
Santo Domingo de Silos (Vida

de), by Berceo, 86n.; by

Vergara, 86n.
Santo Tomas (Convent): at

Avila, 80.
Scotland, 17, 28.
Segoncia, 111.
Segovia, 31, 89-97, 99, 104,

106-112, 115, 258.
Segre (River), 231.
Senate (at Madrid), 145.
Seneca the Elder, 9, 173.
Seneca the Younger, 9,

173.
Sevilla, 31, 50, 178-190, 195,

197, 208. 217.
Shakespeare, 64.
Shoemakers' Guildhouse (at

Barcelona), 241.
Si de las Ninas (El), 29.
Sicily, 11.

Sierra Nevada, 204, 212.
Silk Exchange (at Valencia),

271-272.

307

INDEX

Silk del Rey (at the Escorial),
153.

Silvela (Manuel), 16.

Silver Latin, 8, 25.

Simancas, 156.

Sinagoga del Transito (at
Toledo), 166.

Sindics (of the Tribunal de las
Aguas), 281, 285.

Solis (Family), 130.

Solomon (Song of), 122.

Sorollay Bastida (Joaquin), 33.

Sotomayor (Francisco de), 126.

Sousa (John Philip), 5.

South America, 56.

Southern Spain (Reconquest
of), 204.

Southey (Robert), 169, 202.

Spain, 3, 5, 6, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12,
13, 14, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 23,
25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 32, 37, 40,
51, 62, 64, 67, 68, 71, 74, 88,
89,95,98, 102, 111, 112, 118,
121, 126, 137, 147, 148, 151,
153, 154, 159, 164, 174, 177,
184, 200, 201, 214, 220, 225,
231, 235, 243, 250, 258, 264,
267, 268, 290.

Spain: Its Greatness and Decay
(1479-1788), 146n.

Spaniards, 3, 4, 10, 39, 111,
187, 228, 265.

Spanish Architecture, 204.

Spanish Archives, 156, 184.

Spanish Empire, 14, 78.

Spanish Literature (History of),

Spanish Royal Academy of the
Language (at Madrid), 140.

Spanish School of Painting,
141.

Spanish Student (The), 4.

Spanish Succession (War of
the), 226.

SpanishUniversities, 23.

Spring Promenade (at Gra-
nada), 207.

Stars and Stripes Forever (The),
5.

State, 21.

Street (George Edmund), 71,

^ 93, 119, 231.

Summer Promenade (at Gra-
nada), 207.

Tabernacle (The, at El Pau-

lar), 104-105.
Tagus (River), 96, 161, 168,

169.
Talavera (Family), 120; Capilla

de Talavera, 120.
Tamayo y Baus (Manuel), 29.
Tarragona, 9, 31, 250-259, 263,

264, 272.
Teatro Real (at Madrid), 145.
Templars (Knights of the

Temple), 109, 127, 246.
Teodolfo (Spanish Bishop of

Orleans), 9.
Terence, 275.

Theodosius (Emperor), 191.
Ticknor (George), 4, 7.
Tingentera, 9.
Tirso de Molina, 27, 79.
Titian, 141, 142.
Tizon, 145.
Toledo, 31, 95-96, 157, 161-

170, 173, 254.
Toledo swords, 64, 166-168.
Tolosa, 67.
Tormes (River), 128.
Torre de Miramar (at Barce-

(lona), 249.
Torre del Clavero (La), at

Salamanca, 126.
Torre del Gallo La), at the

Old Cathedral in Salamanca,

118.
Torre del Oro (at Sevilla),

183.
Torre6n de Pilatos (at Tarra-
gona), 250, 251.
Torrero (Suburb of Zaragoza),

226.

308

INDEX

Torrijos (Genera! Jose Maria),

143, 200.
Tortosa, 264-265.
Trajan (Emperor), 92, 111, 190.
Treaty of Peace, 5.
Triana, 190.
Tribunal de las Aguas (at

Valencia), 279-290.
Tribunal of the Waters (at

Valencia), 279-290.
Trois Couronnes (Mountain),

46.
Trovatore (II), 223, 227.
Tunis, 12.
Turia (River), 285.
Twelve Apostles, 282.

Uli'a (Monte), 60.

Union (La), 283.

United States, 3, 151, 249, 268.

United States Government,
62.

Universidad Central (at Ma-
drid), 145, 148.

Universities of Europe in the
Middle Ages (The), 78n.

University: of Alcala, 121, 146,
164-156, 158; of Barcelona,
243; of Bologna, 121; of
Madrid, 23, 145-146; of
Oxford, 121; of Palencia,
121; of Paris, 121; of Sala-
manca, 120-125, 132; of Se-
villa, 190; of Zaragoza, 224-
225.

Unter den Linden, 239.

Urban VIII (Pope), 50.

Urgull (Monte), 41, 60.

Urumea River, 46.

Utrera, 195-196.

Valdecarzana (Marques de),

116.
Valencia (City), 11, 217, 263,

266-272, 278-290.
Valencia (Kingdom), 220, 261-

291.

Valencia (Province), 127.
Valencia del Cid, 265.
Valencian Pottery, 279.
Valera y Alcala Galiano (Juan),

7, 28, 29, 30.
Valladolid, 50, 77-79.
Van Dyck (Anton), 180.
Vatican, 22.

Vega (Lope de), 27, 161, 169.
Vega de Armijo (Marques de

la), 178.
Vega de Valencia, 279, 284,

285.
Velazquez (Diego), 32, 141.
Venetian School of Painting,

141.
Venice, 26n.

Vera Cruz (Church), at Se-
govia, 97, 109.
Verdad Sospechosa (La) of

Alarcon, 27.
Verdi (Giuseppe), 223.
Vergara (Fray Sebastian de),

86n.
Versailles, 98.
Viaje Entretenido (El), 110.
Vich (Bishop of), 235-236.
Victoria (Queen of England),

14.
Victoria (Queen of Spain),

153.
Vida y Muerle del Rey Bamba

(of Lope de Vega), 162.
Vie Universitaire dans V An-

cienne Espagne (La), 79n.,

130.
Villalba, 89.

Villena (Don Enrique de), 25.
Virgen del Puig (Chapel in the

Cathedral of Valencia), 266.
Virgil, 25.

Virgin Mary (The), 219, 220.
Visigothic Ritual, 120.
Visigoths (The), 64, 265.
Visquio (Bishop Jeronimo),

117.
Vitoria, 64, 68.

309

INDEX

■Vocabolario degli Accademici
della Crusca, 25n.

Wacht am Rhein (Die), 4.
Washington, 29.
Wellington (Duke of), 64.
Whittier (John Greenleaf), 7.
Winter Promenade (at Gra-
nada), 207.
Wood (Charles William), 232.
World and his Wife (The), 30.

Ximena (Wife of the Cid), 70,
77, 265, 267.

Yankee, 248.
Yuste, 12.
Yusuf I, 207.

Zamora, (Battle of), 70.
Zaporta (Gabriel), 222.
Zaragoza, 10, 215-228, 231,

235; Siege of, 227-228.
Zorrilla (Jose), 29.
Zuloaga (Ignacio), 33.
Zumarraga, 68.
Zurbaran (Francisco), 32.
Zurriola (Paseo de la), 46, 47,

49.

310

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