[Report made by Lieut. J.W. Abert of such objects as came under ... observation ... during the journey from Fort Leavenworth to Bent's Fort in the year 1846

Ex. Doc. No. 41. 385
APPENDIX No. 5—Continued.
December 23, 1846:—San Diego.

DETERMINATION OF TIME. bs

Time, p. m. Double altitudes of a Andro- Chronometer fast.
medz, in the west.

—S=— |

3°

ee Cee -Deg.min. sec. TON oe
5-204. 56.5 et vie RNG) 8 56 58.0
5 Son ao .0 99>) 26.110 8: 06 - 58.7
5. 6. FES B90 OF. 125 BS DO. O77
DB 4c 08.5 98. 46 15. 8 56 58.9
5 57: 58.2 98 26. 10 ~8 56 60.4
5. 58 54.6 98 01 50 SOON, OSe9
og -o9 52°8 OF) Si ZO 8. 56. (58.5
Ok SSNS 96 OOD 8 56: 68:5
6-02 10,0 96 39 40 8) 156): 5738
Thermometer 54°.
ee
Time, p- m. Double altitudes of a Orion, Chronometer fast.
in the east. /

h. ™m. s} - Deg. min. sec. Weise Se

6 06. 25.5 94 42 45 8456). 54.3
607% L7D.5 Ay Ol AD Sp OOhrs
6: OS 02.5 99) 4B.) 35 83.06; )5)_.1
6 08 57.6 95 38 35 8 06, », 5D,..9
D9 aA 28 5 95 1,56: 0 8, .)6 58.6
@: 10. 25).2 96 410 43D 8, 5656.9
Geil 02.0 4 96), 423.125 3. (56.587
6%)11 55.6 96 43 45 8) 56; 56.59:
6 12 43.5 97 Q1 20 8 56 56.7

Thermometer 54°,

Mean of 18 observations, 8h..56m. 57.52s.

ing ba "365649

% ge
*s, Wetional cA

U.S. Engineer degl ae ek em
" pReper™ made by ud’, AA B BERS at

APPENDIX No.6.

aoa

Wasuineton Ciry, October 8, 1847.

Sir: I have the honor to submit, herewith, a report of such ob-
jects of natural history as came under my observation while I was
attached to the topographical party, under. your command, during
the journey from Fort Leavenworth to Beni’s Fort. cc’

The plants which were collected were submitted to the inspec-

~ tion of Dr. Torrey, to whom I am indebted for their names.

With great respect, I am, sir, your most obedient servant,

en, J. W. ABERT. © |
Lieutenant U. S. Top. Engineers.

To. Lieut: W. H. Emory,
U. S. Topographical Engineers.

eS

Notes of Lieutenant J. WV. Abert.

~ On the 27th of June, 1846, we set out from. Fort Leavenworth.
The day was clear aud bright; the woods were rejoiced with the
voice of the mocking bird, and of the many little warblers that |
would join in the chorus of his song; the biuebird was there with
his sprightly notes, and the meadow lark, perched on some tall ©
mullein weed, caroled forth his song of love. As we were heartily
tired of remaining quiet, we were well prepared to enjoy the ~
beautiful scenes that our progress gradually developed. The
eround is what is called “rolling prairie,’ of gentle curves, one
swell melting into another. ae

The soil around is extremely rich; the whole country. is verdant
with the rank growth of the ‘‘tall grass,” as it is called by way of
eminence, when compared with that which grows beyond the re-.
gion of the walnut and the hickory. : gs

Here are many varieties of useful timber: the hickory, the wal-~
nut, the linden, the ash, the hornbeam, the maple, the birch, and
the beech, also the cotton wood; but, beyond the limits of the “tall
grass,” there is the cotton wood only.

Five miles from Fort Leavenwérth we passed a large butte,
called ‘*Pilot Knob;” its top is flat, and unites with the vallics be-
low in a curve like that-of a rope slackly drawn; spreading over
climbing almost to the top of the butte, we saw
er, consisting chiefly of oak. Among the shrubs,
we udticed the Wazel, (corylus Americanus,) and the button bush,
\(cephalantus occidentalis;) among these the wild grape had twisted
x

~ fF tngqite®

Kee Ex. Doc. No. 41. ee

. . 4
‘its tendrils and was growing so luxuriantly that it was with great
diffi=>'-y one on horsevack could force his way through.

On the hill sides, tue wild rose was still in bloom, and mingled
its pink flowers with the beautiful white clusters of the Jersey tea, —
{ceonothus Americanus.) The prairies were covered with tall
stalks of the rattlesnake weed, (rudebeckia purpurea.)

Some of our mules proved very refractory, but we scon con-
quered them with the aid of the “‘lazo,’’ or cabriesto, as it is often
called—-a rope of hair, or plaited hide, 50 to 60 feet long, in which
a noose is formed that, by a skilful hand, is easily thrown over the
maule’s head, the noose being gradually tightened, the animal soon
falis to ail appearance lifeless. Now, the bridle, the saddle, and
packs are fixed, the noose loosened, and the mule rises ready for the
journey.
fter a march of*twelve miles, we encamped near a log house,
close to a f&ne spring of colu clear> water. Here we. noticed the
white hickory, or downy hickory, (juglans pubescens,) the chest-
mut oak, (quercus primus acuminata,) the spicewcood, (laurus ben-
zoin,) and, deep in the woods, the modest May apple, (podophyl-
dum peltatum,) and bloodroot, (sanguinaria canadensis. )

As we retired to rest, the sky became clou'y, and in alittle time
-a plentiful shower of rain fell, which annoyed us greatly as it
drove through our tents.

28th.—During the early portion of the morning, the rain con-
tinued with some abatement, and, as the sky showed signs of clear- °
ing off, we commenced making our arrangements for the march.
I went down to a log house close by, and, whilst examining it, was
attracted by the chirping of birds, and, on searching, found that
the sound proceeded from the chimney, and I there discovered a
beautiful nest, in the shape of a half. basket, firmly attached to the
chimney walls with clay, lined internally with horse hair and soft
-grass, and covered externally with moss; within were five un-
fledge! birds, their eyes scarcely open, and at every sound they
heard they would op. their mouths. and scream for food.> The
anxious parent several times da:ied down near my head. I wished
much to ascertain its species, but, although it lit-on the trees near
the houve, I could not get mear enough .o make any decision, and,
as I did not desire to kill a bird witn young, I had to content my-
self with the name some of our people gave it, to whom I pointed
it owt, and who called it the ‘‘grey bird.” |

After some little trouble with the mules, we got off about 7
-o’clock; the rain had made the roads slippery, and the wheels cut
into the soft mould so that the mules labored hard; at length we
- reached a sudden rise, where, in spite of our efforts, we were obliged
4o remain until one of the volunteer teamsters, seeing our diffi-
culty, kindly brought us three yoke of oxen, and soon drew us up’
the slope. Passing on over gently rising and falling swells and
yallies, with the delightful breeze that one almost always mects on
the prairies, we felt our spirits rising with the clearing away of
the clouds, and when the sun broke forth in splendor the sensa-
4i0n was truly exhilirating. Whenever we rode to one side of the

388 Ex. Doc: No. 46.

. fui
road, we noticed that our horses would frequently sink to the fet-
lock, and saw on the ground little piles of loose earth, like small
ant hills, being about 5 incaes high and 10 or 12 inches in diam-
eter at the base, and without any opening; they are formed by the
sand rats or gophers, (pseudostoma_ bursarius,) and although their
habitations cover the prairies, there are few persons I have met
with who have ever seen them. (i
On our route we started severa! prairie chickens, (tetrao cupida.)
After a march of 11 miles we reached Stranger creek, a romantic
little stream of water, clear as crystal, that ripples over a pebbly
bottom. The banks are high and composed of rich loam that

nourishes immense oaks and sycamores, (platanus occidentalis.)

The banks were now so slippery from the rain, and so steep withal,
that we were necessitated to unload our wagons before we could
achieve the ascent. We-were soon encamped, and had our bed-
ding exposed to the sun to dry. We noticed a great quantity of
the orange colored asclepias, (asclepias iuberosa,) around which
gaudy butterflies were flitting. The low grounds near us were
covered with a prickly button-head rush, (eryingium aquaticum,)
the roots of which, when candied over, formed the kissing comfits
of Falstaff.

The woods were skirted by a dense growth of hazel, plum trees,
and tangled grape vines. Here, too, we found the little quail, (or-
tix virginiana,) suddenly rising up from under our feet, and startling
* us with the whizzing sound of its wings. This evening the mosqui-
toes were very numerous, and we lay down to be tormented by
these provoking pests; but few of us were able to sleep, although
none of us slept very comfortably last night.

29th.—Yesterday evening, we found that the hind axletree of
our wagon had been split in crossing the creek; and, being fearful
lest we should break down at some place where good timber could
not be obtained, we sent out two men to procure a piece cf tim-
ber, and they soon brought in a fine piece of hickory, dragging it
into camp by the means of a ‘‘lazo” that they had affixed to it
and had then passed round the neck of a mule. Luckily fer
us, there was a good carpenter in the volunteer camp, and although
his tools consisted only of a saw, an axe, a drawing knife, and an
auger, he, nevertheless, managed to fashion a very good axletree.
This work detained us until 1 o’clock, when we started for the
Kansas river, having, through the kindness of Colonel Ruff, ob-
tained a new teamster in place of the one who deserted last night.

The prairie was yet what is called rolling; the flat bottoms were
covered with the rosin weed or polas plant, (silplicum laciniatum,)
whose pennate-parted leaves have their lobes extending like fingers
on each side of the mid rib. It is said that the planes of the leaves
of this plant are coincident with the plane of the meridian; but
those I have noticed must have been influenced by some local ai-
traction that deranged their polarity.

The orange colored asclepias, (A. tuberosa,) and the melan-
thium virginicum, a white-flowering bush, were also abundant. _

The timber on the ravines consisted of the white oak, (Q. alba,)

Eix. Doc. No. 41. 389

black jack oak, (Q. ferruginea,) mulberry, enti ae walnut,
(¥F. nigra,) the hickory, the red bud, (ericis canadensis.) The
nettles (urtica canadensis) had grown to the height of 7 or 8 feet,
all of which show the prodigal fertility of the soil. | <
As we approached the Kansas river its tributaries. seemed! ‘to
multiply ancl: and the rolls in the prairie became more abrupt.
At 3 o’clock, we ascended a high ridge that gave usa fine view
of the sgholle surrounding country. Presently reaching a little
stream, whose banks were excessively steep and slippery, the wag-
ons attempted to ascend; but one of the wagon wheels sank
deep in the mud, and completely stopped all progress; we were
therefore obliged to unload everything, and then clap all hands to
the wheel, when we rose the hill amid the cheers of the men. A
Frenchman, counted ona wild mule, had: already crossed and was
standing an the waster bank, which is 10 ‘or 12 feet in’ height,
when the mule suddenly Spry ng off the bank into the creek, just
‘grazing with its feet the head of one of the men over whom it
passed in its desperate leap. No one was hurt, and the Frenchman
still sat as*firm as ever.
As we nedred the Kaw or Kansas “river, some.of us went im ad-
vance and soon reached an Indian house; the occupants said they.
were Shawnees. They appeared to be very comfortably fixed; had
plenty of fine looking cattle, pigs, and chickens; within a few
yards of the house, a ie stream of cood water spouted forth from
the side of a hill. We iearned of the Indians that the distance to
the Kaw river was 11 miles.
Crossing a igh ridge, we enter the Kanzas atedal it was over-
grown with a tall grass (arundo fieen" es) from 5 ie 6 feet high,
and mingled Oi this was the lone-leafed willow and the cotton
wood. A quarter of a mile-from the river bank, we entered the
timber, consisting of the varieties already mentioned: the ground
on which it grew was a'deep loose sand diffeult to get through.
In the river we found two large flat boats or scows mahned b

tA

hawnee Indians, dressed in bright-colered shirts, with shawls
Broan | their heads. The durrent of the river was very rapid, so that
it required the greatest exertions on the/part. of our ferrymen to
prevent the. boats from being swept far down the stream. We

bowed ee

anded just at the mouth. of. the Wakaroosa eréek. Here there is
no perceptible current; the creek is 14 feet deep, while the river
does not average more than 5 feet, a and in several places i is quite
shoal.

It was nearly 10 o’¢lock before all our company had crossed,
and was so dark that we could scarcely see to arrange camp; 30
we lay down on the river bank and sent. our horses out on the

rairie to graze. We finished our suppers at 12 0 ’clock and lay
oes again to sleep; but, worn out as we were, the mosquitoes
showed us no compassion, tad large hooting owls, (bubo viiginianus,)
as if to condole with us, commenced a serenade:

The pure cold water of the Wakaroosa looked so inviting that
some of us could not refrain from plunging beneath its crystal sur-
face; one of the flat boats formed a convenient place from which
to spring. The sun was rising, surrounded by golden clouds; in

P

4 390° _ Ex. Doe. Ne, 41.

one of the flat boats, three of the iter who had assisted in ferry~
ing us over were soundly sleeping, and far away stretched the grad—
vally diminishing trees that. overhung the Kanzas water; the king-
fisher (alcedo alcyon) was darting along, uttering his shrill rattling
scream; flocks of paroqu-ts (centurus Carolinengis) were circling
over head, screaming and darting amid the tall walout and syca-
more trees.

We now made ready for our match, having engaged a fine lock-
ing Indian lad to go with the party. Our’horses had not had much
time to eat last night, and seemed disinclined to pass through the:
luxuriant grass that lay on each side of our poe and were con-
stantly ins to snatch a mouthful of the delicious herbage.

At 84 o’clock we had a a glimpse of the Wakaroosa buttes; on our
right there was a large corn fieid, of about 20 acres, then a line of
timber stretching es far as the eye could reach; on an left lay the:
broad rolling prairie, and directly in front we could see the road
crossing the “swells of the prairie, until it could be no longer dis-
tinguished. As we continued to advance we ‘found that our road
lead us directly between the two buttes.

We soon reached them.end then saw the‘ divide” that sepa-’
rates the Untay of the ‘¢ Wakaroosa” from those of the ‘‘Alaris.
des cygnes,”? or Osage; (as it is called near its mouth;) upon this
divide the Santa Fé road is laid out. ie

We soon saw the Oregon trail, which here unites with that to
Santa Fé; shortly after passing the junction of these trails‘ we
reached a steep declivity that ‘forms the bank ofa small stream,
and noticed that the Indians had been working -here for coal; i
the superincumbent sale we found traces of fossils resembling the
broad flat leaves of the iris (fride.) While we were examining
this formation, my horse, ae iat had been driven almost mad by the
flies, (tabani,) Dole fap om his fastenings and rushed into the creek,
in order to:rol! in the water, and. thus free himself from his ae
ee what a misfortune! for my saddle and pistols were on-his
back; some of the party dashed towards him, and, springing up, he
galloped “off scattering all my accoutrements on thes road; but I re-
covered every thing, even my pistols.

We continued on over a broad flat-bottom of marshy land, but
found, before we had proceeded far, that our course bore too much
to the aoe We, however, continued to follow on in: hopes it
would take a turn, but were disappointed. As it was now late, we-
encamped on the We akaroosa river, -having marched nine miles.
During the day, our animals suffered greatly from the horse-fly,
atanis) these flies completely covered the necks and shoulders.
of the herses and mules, becencne them excessively.

Amongst the birds observed this day, were the dove, (ecte-
pistes Caroliniensis;) the flicker, (gieus auratus;) the bine bird,
(sialia Wilsonnii;) the burting, (pipilo erythressthalmus;) and the
crow, (corvus Americanus.) The Jast mentioned birds were loung-
ing near a large cornfield, and were, doubtless, watching with
interest the ripening of the. grain.

Those friends of the prairie yoyageur, the cow-bird, (molotaatl

\

fp

~

‘

Ex. Doe. No. 4!. | 391

- pecoris,). made their appearance, and no sooner had we picketed
our animals than those birds installed them on their backs.

The elder (sambucus pubescens) .was still in bloom, and the
orange asclepias still displaying its gaudy flowers, much to the
delight of the brilliant butterflies that-sported around it, and are
so constantly found near it, that it is often called the’ ‘butterfly
plant. f

Our camp is on a high point. which separates the branches of a
little stream; the grass around is good, and our situation bigh: and
must bid defiance to the mosquitoes. Along the margin of the
creek I found a beautiful lily, (lilium tigrinum,) of a bright orange
color, and beautifully dotted. ‘

On July 1 we arose early and made our way back to the trail
we had left. After a march of three miles we reached the route
sought for; we then rose to the top of the “divide,” which unites
with the Wakaroos2 valley by a series of slopes that resembie the
exterior slopes of parapets, their crests changing direction sud-
denly, so as to form sharp angles. like those of a bastion; we
ascended 15 feet, and on taking a bearing back, found that the
Wakaroosa buttes were north 40° east.

After travelling three miles further, we reached the broad fea
of the traders from Independence, ee to Santa Fe.

As our horses moved through the grass, the horse-flies seemed to
be shaken from the spikelets, as the farina from the stamens of
corn, when shaken by the wind; then rising up, they covered the
heads and necks of the poor oni tmals, making them frantic with
pain; they would rub against each other, and stamp their. hoofs;
and some would place their heads so as to getithe benefit of the
switchings of another’s tail; and even the riders were annoyed by
their desverate efforts to vet rid of these persecutors.

Before we had proceeded far, we met a man driving an ox team;
‘he had accompanied some of the volunteer companies to carry
provisons; and, having emptied his wagon, he was ‘now on his
return. He told us that it was twenty miles from the next pool to
water, so we determined to camp soon; and, having made a march
of eleyen miles, we pitched our tents on the very,same spot on
which we had encamped one year previous. Here we collected
some beautiful flowers, amongst which were the rudbeckia hirta,
and the delicate bed straw, (galium tinctorum.)

The stream upon which we were was then merely a line of
unconnected pools. The only trees to be seen were some tall
elms, (ulmus Amer.,) in whose. tops several turkey yultures
(cath artes aura) were Brepenine to go to roost, while below,
amongst the willow brush that bordered: the oe some cat birds
(orpheus carol.) kept HP a low conversation as they plunged into
the inmost recesses of the undergrowth.

July 2.—As we had the twenty mile stretch to muke to-day
without water, we arose early. The dew last night had been very
heavy, and we found little pools of water standing on the tops of
our mosquito bars, for we had been obliged to desert the tent
where our bars could not be fixed conveniently.

392 fiBeetNe. a |

The mounds made by 1M gophers or sand rats were more abun- .
dant than heretofore, and in several places a number of these
mounds had been made so close together that the distinctness of |
each was completely lost in the mass, covering an area of five « or
six feet.

“Our road was full of plovers,, (charadicus marmoratug;) they
would run along before us with great rapidity; then stop until we
approached quite close, when they would run off again. Thus they
kept travelling before us all day: We shot several-of ‘them, and
I preserved some of their skins, more as a memento of the prairies
than as a curiosity, for these birds are-very abundant in the Uni-
ted States, from Canada to the gulf of Mexico.

As we proceeded on our journey, we heard the confused hum of
thousands of grasshoppers, now and then broken by the chirping of
the cricket. These insects are found in great abundance, and obtain
greater size than any I have seen elsewhere. I gota cricket this
morning that measured 1% inches in length of its body.

We now entered on the level prairie, where nothing was to be
seen but a wide expanse of green grass, and the sky above filled
with cumulus clouds, the shadows of which; as they ‘fell upon Us,
added to the refreshing effects of the delightful breeze one gene-
rally meets upon the the ae After travelling a long distance
over a country, the irregularities:of which were so imperceptible
that one almost doubted: their existence, we reached that position
which I tock to be the top of the divide. Here lay the half de-
voured carcass of an ox that had, doubtless, succumbed to the
fatigues | of the journey and deprivation of water; for these ani-
mals suffer much more from want of water than the mule. Some
turkey vultures, sailing above our heads, showed that they were not
ignorant of the locality of the carrion.

In a little while after passing the ox’s carcass, we reached 110
mile creek, which is 22 miles distant from our last night’scamp. At
this creek there is a fine grove of timber, containing all the varie-
ties found in the vicinity of Kansas river.

About 12 o’clock we reached this; creek, and we here found:the

robin, (turdus migratorius,) the cat bird and the blue bird; and, higa ;
above us,-the swallow-tailed hawk (nauclerus fuscatus) was sweep-
ing round in graceful circles, its white head glancing in the sun-
licht.. I asked the Indian lad to pbac: it for me with his rifle; but
he gazed upwards at the bird, and seemed so Tene with the beauty
of its movements that he sideenedl not a word, but shook his head
to signify that the bird was too fair for ‘him to kill it. IF should
think it impossible for smaller birds ever to escape this hawk, whieh
unites the form and swiftness of the swallow with the boldness and

strength of wing of the falcon.
Nigh the banks of the stream there was a low piece of ground
covered with the purpie monarda, foes da al! ophyHa.) The
gaudy butterflies that I have spoken of before, as flitting around the —
asclepias, were now sucking the sweets of these flowers. ,

Betore, we had fairly pitched our tents, young Mr. Nourse;
of Washington city, entered our camp. He had, alone, boldly set

off from Fort Leavenworth the day after we had left, determined
‘to overtake us. We were delighted at his safe arrival; nor were
we less pleased when we found that he had brought letters from the
friends and relatives whom we had left behind. |

» July 3.—We arose “early this morning to gain as much of the cool
portion of the day~as possible, determined to push on and see if
we could not: get rid of the flies that are so troublesome to
sour horses. The poor brutes seem to have no time to graze; and,
when picketedout, they employ their feeding time in oe in'the
grass and kicking frantically, so thai the ground resounds with
the'stamping of their hoofs; and, in taking obs ervations with the
aid of the artificial horizon, one is obliged to select’a spot-at some’
distance from the horses, to prevent the jar which they produce
from disturbing the surface of the mercury. The season appears to
be unusually dry; 110 mile creek, which at this time last year was
full of water, now has only a few scattered pools in its bed.

All day we had a: brisk breeze fiom the southwest, making the.
dravelling very pleasant. The plover and cow birds were pla aying .
along the road in front .of us, and catching the grasshoppers that
were scattered around in unlimited profusion.

At 10 o’clock, having marched 15 miles, we reached Independence

ereek, So called t by Colonel Frémont, in consequence of otrencamp-
ing here on the 4th of July; one’ year previous. This creek con-
tains the only running water ‘we have seen since leaving our camp
by the Wakaroosa river. Along the road side, I gathered a plant
called lamb’s quarter, (chenopodium album,) the plaintain weed,

(plantago major,) and a beautiful sensitive plant, with a yello
Hakeer, slightly resembling the males. (cassia chamaecrista.) :

We encampg¢d @even miles beyond Independence creek, in a ravine -
timbered with the elm, the cotton wood, the hickory ana the oak,
Some of our hunters went out and killed severa! wild turkeys,
(meleagris gallopaoo.} We saw a*flock of curlew, (numenius lon-
girostris,) andsome teal, Canas carol.)

Saturday, July 4.—At 5} o’clock, this morning, we crossed the
ereek wpon which we had encamped, and soon reached an elevated
- piece ot ground, from whence we could see our road crossing a
high ridge in a direction 8. 60°'W. Whilst prosecuting our mare
we noticed two distant spots in the horizon; and, as we neared them,
we judged; from the white hght that. one ‘of the objects reflected,
that they might be mounted men. Before long we met them, and
found our conjectures correct. They. said. oy were traders, and
had been as far as Council grove.

At 7 o’clock, we crossed a stream of running ee at 8 o’clock,

we reached one composed of pools, its banks heavily timbered with
wala and we also noticed the buckeye, (pavia lutea,) and, skirt-
the stream, gooseberry bushes, (ribes triflorum,) and alder. At

2 o’clock, we réached Rock creek. This stream is very appro-
priately named, as its banks chiafly consist of rock. Near where
the road crosses there is alarge pool from four to five feet in depth,
forming a fine bathing ¢ place; ‘but we did not stop here, as we were
anxious to reach some eminent place in honor of the day. We

. (enothera biennis,) the white 2 and tne yellow. We noticec amongst.

Ex. Doe. No. 41.

pushed forward for *‘ Big John spring,” which we reached at ee

o’clock. Here we luxuriated on the delightful cool water of this
celebrated spring, reclining under the shade of a tall oak ‘sub:
tegmine quercis at whose base this. spring originates; the tem-
perature of the water being only 53°, while that of the air ranges
above 80°.

We saw to-day two beautiful ~ rieties of yh evening primrose,
the birds the brown thrush, (orpheus rufus,) the king. bird, (musci-
capa tyrannus,) the grouse (tetrao cupido, As and the little quail

Sunday, July 5th.—We wished, as we started this morning , that
we could have taken this spring along with us, the water was SO:
beautifully clear and so cold, and the spring shaded from distance
around by a grove of the walnut, the sycamore, and the oak, around
the trunks of which the ivy (rhus radicans) claimbered,, and. at the
roots of which grew Reavaial lychnis. :

Two miles from our point of departure is Council grove, where
there is a fine stream of running water, and great quantities of
quartz and highly fossiliferous limestone.

Shortly before Council grove, we passed the grave of a white
man, who had been murdered by an Osage Indian; a circular pile
of cones marks his resting place; from the crevices between the
stones the ivy has shot forth; over the grave a long pole leans
mournfully: When I viewed this simple grave, my mind turned to
the proud monuments which are built up by the wealthy in our

great cities, and which are daily leveled with the ground to give
pee 0 some improve ent. Here, on the wild prairie, the Indian
and the rude hunter pass by this spot, and not.for worlds, would

they remove one stone. *

Continuing our march, we travelled over a distance of 20 miles.
when we reached ‘‘ Diamond spring.”? This is a fine large spring,
of three or four feet across, the water extremely, cold; the tem-
perature of the spring is 54°, while that of. the air, the thermometer
in the shade, is 87°

I procured atthis place a beautiful white thistle, (cnicusacarna,)

of delicious: fragrance. We saw a great many night hawks:
g g

(chordeile she as and plovers, as well. as several herds of deer,
(cervus virginianus.) J also coliected some of the great grasshop-
pers of the prairies i ;

Monday, July 6th.—As we set out on, our march, the wagon
mules took a freak in their heads and endeavored to run off with
the provision wagon, but the driver turned them into the wide
prairie, and soon speceeded in quieting them for a time, but he had
sever an trials for the mastery before the day’s march was. over.
After travelling 15 miles, we arrived at ‘‘Lost spring,” but did not
stop as itS appearance was, uot inviting.

We noticed near the road numerous large puff balls or fungi, that
resembled, both in size and appearance, human skulls of most.
beautiful whiteness; the under side is puckered as if a napkin had
been thrown over a round body and drawn with a string; the
interior resembles flour, except that it coheres, :

¢

Ex. Doc.No.4t. 395)

Continuing our journey. we pressed forward rapidly, in order to
reach Cottonwood fork, which is nearly thirty miles from the
place where we were encamped this morning. We had. a tedious
march end did not reach the creek until 3 o’clock. ~

,Cur animals’ were very much jaded, and add to this that, the
‘moment we reached our goal, myriads of horsé flies attacked our

cavalcade furiously. In the efforts of the beasts to, rid themselves
o the flies, Hey often became entangled in the “* cabrestoés;’? we
were obliged to protect some of them by loose clothing; the mos-
quitoes, too, were troublesome to horses and riders.

Cottonwood fork is a tributary, of the Neosha, as well as Conn-
ceil grove creek and the waters intermediate. This stream is tim-
bered with larg ge cotton wood trees that keep a continued rustling
of their leaves, for the slightest breeze.makes them tremble.

We noticed here thickets of the elder (S. canadensis) in full
bloom. The beautiful monarda (M. allophyla) covered the low
eis of the banks of this stream, while on the little sand bars,
and close to the water’s edge, a dense growth of the long leaved
willows overhung the clear water, in which sported the black bass,
the cat fish, and) the sun fish. Just-where the road crosses, there
is a fine pool of water, from five to six feet deep, and peel feet
wide.

Bue s dad, July '7.—We concluded that it would be best to remain
here for the day, as-our animals looked much harrassed by what
they have already undergone. We employed ourselves in getting
all our affairs arranged in complete order; for we expect that this
is ‘he last stop that we shall make for some time to: ‘come. LG
thing was overhauled, our clothes were au washed, and all those
arrangements, such as a journey of this kind suggest, but a
our continued movement did aot permit us to accomplish, were this
day executed.

Around our camp the ground looked golden with the different va-
tities of the golden rod, Se) and along the stream we saw
box elder, (acer negundo, ,) and extended thickets of plum bushes.

Not far from the camp we saw some antelope, (dicranocerus fur-
cifer,) so we sent out an old-voyageur with the Indian hunter in
pursuit of them; but they returned unsuccessiui, and reported that
the antelope were extremely shy.

About 4 o’clock several companies of volunteers made their ap-
pearance, and until it was quite late we heard the tramp of horses,
the clashing of sabres, and jingling of spurs; at last they all ar-
rived, and “the camp was quiet, save the howl of the sentinel
wolf.

Wednesday, July 8.—At 5 o'clock this morning: we were on the
route for the ee creeks; they are three in number, and unite a
few miles below the points where our road crosses them; the day
was pleasant, for the sky was overcast.

- We had now reached the short grass, that is not more than four
or five inches in length, and we saw little patches cf'the true buf-
falo grass, (sesleria dactyloides,) a short and curly grass, so unique

in its general character that if at once catches the eye. of the tray-
eller. e

On either side of us we ebeeived little. Gootne spots marking the
places where the buffalo once wallowed; for these huge animals have
a habit cf throwing themselve od on their sides upon the ground;
they then commence walking, s ‘it were, with their feet on the
emcumference of a circle; thi i causes their bodies to revolve, and

thus result circular poues in the prairies; these, after a rain, -are :

for a long time filled with water, with which the traveller 1S often
fain to slake his thirst. .

These old wallows are now overgrown with plants that grow
more luxuriantly than.on other portions of the prairie. | There is
the splendid coreopsis (coreopsis tinctoria) and the ses margined
euphorbia; Ceuphonbia marginata;) these at once arrest the at-
tention. i

It is seldom, now, that the buffalo range this far; no. signs oPold
excrements are to be seen, and-the bleached bones left upon the
. plains by the hunter have long since mouldered away. Towards
the close of the day we found “the frontal bone of 2 buffalo’s skull,
the only sign, in addition to the wallows, of this animal having
been once abundant.

Along the road were numbers of the beetle, | laying in their win-
ter stores, “haud nonignarl aut incauta: futuri.” We stopped to
moon, at Tito ‘clock. After'a halt of half an hour, we started
again, and at 12! o'clock, formed our camp on Turkey creek.
Here not a stick of timber is to be seen, but we found some beau-
tiful plants with brilliant scarlet flowers (malva pedata) and roots
which are eatable. We also obtained specimens of the pomme
blanche, (psoralea esculenta,) and in the waters of Turkey creek
we caught some sun perch ¢ and catfish.

The men killed several rattlesmakes near our camp, and one a
grey snake, marked with a row of blackish spots along the back;
it is said) never to exceed two feet in length, and is called’ the

grey rattlesnake. Before dark,the sky became black with clouds,
veer appearance was ue followed by a heavy shower of rain.
This day, Oth. at daylight, we struck our tents and commenced

our march; heavy clouds. Were at intervals, passing over us ‘and
completely. delugii hg us with rain: When the rain would, cease,
we would stop’ a few moments and let our animals rest. We
noticed some buffalo skulls near the road; they must have lai
here many years, as they were crumbling to pieces. _At3 o’e MGs
we reached the Little Arkansas, a tributa ary of the great river
the name of which it bears. This stream is from five to eight. feet
in width, and averages five. inches in depth; on its banks were
some large elms and box elder; we also saw the common elder,
(sambucus, ,) narrow leafed willo. w, and the grape, (vitis aestivalis,)
the sorel (oxalis stricta) and lamb’s avert, (chenopodium album)
-grew hear the stream.

The rain had ceased as we entered camp, and as the ante-
lope appeared abundant and at-no great distance, Menard was

A 3 ’ \
;

ix. Doc. No. Al. BOR

sent to shoot some of them, but his gun had got so wet during the.
day it would not fire.

We noticed to-day the pink sensitive plant (schrankia uncinata)
of most delicious fragrance, so that my hat, into which I had
_ thrust some specimens, was pleasantly perfumed. With this plant,

we also found a white variety, (darlingtonia brachypoda,) | the
flowers and leaves are smaller than the plant first mentioned, and
has no odor. |

Late in the evening several of the volunteer companies came
up; they said they were suffering for want of provisions; as the
commissary waggons had got on too far in advance, they sent for-
ward to have some of them return. But we were all suffering
from a cause that produced in some of us feelings more unpleasant
than hunger; the blowflyehad peopied our blankets with living
masses of corruption; it is said that these insects were never before
seen so far out in the prairies. |

Friday, 10th.—It is still raining, the clouds are chasing each
other rapidly across the sky, and now and then the rain pours
heavily down.. We remained in camp sometime waiting for the.
rain to stop. We thus lost several hours, but we found travelling
in the prairies rather increased the chafing of our animals. We
noticed to-day some swallows, (hirundo bicolor,) also the turtle
dove, the little quail, the blue jay, (garulus cristatus,) and the
king fisher (alcedo alcyon.)’ I

We collected some lamb’s quarter and had it cooked, and no-
ticed along the road side the purslane, (portulaca oleracea;) this
also would answer for the table of the prairie voyageur. Our
day’s journey was 16 miles.

Saturday 11th.—We were up this morning at 3} o’clock, and
ready~for the start. Our arrangement of mosquito bars was
broken in upon last night by a heavy shower of rain that forced us
to retreat to our terts.

After marching three miles, we reached Cow creek; it was very
difficult to cross on account of the miry bottom, but we got safely
over without great delay. Before we had proceeded fdr, we
caught sight of the ‘plum buttes,” bearing N. 20° W. We passed
through a large village of prairie dogs, (Arctomys Ludoviciana;)
although now deserted, there were fresh signs of the dogs having
thrown out some earth from their excavations. Last night’s rain
had, doubtless, forced them to leave their houses. In the ponds
that had settled on the plain, we saw several craw fish, and the
crickets were gathered around some ant hills. As our wagons
moved along the road, the lizards (lacerta lineatus) were darting
rapidly along the ruts in front of it, anxious to escape being
crushed, ‘The common land turtle (testudo clausa) were also very
abundant. As we got quite near the Plum buttes, we caught sight
of the buffaloes, (bos americanus,) and some five or six of our
party immediately gave chase. The buffaloes ran around ina
circle of three-fourths of a mile in diameter; so those who were
near the centre of this circle had an excellent view of the chase.
Holster pistols were the only arms used, and we-soon had the plea-

398 Ex. Doc. No. 41.

sure of seeing one of the animals fall; the other then turned off —
into the wide prairie. ey te : .

“Near the buttes we collected some beautiful Gaillardias of differ-
ent species. Gaillardia amblyodon and G. pinnatifida we found
abundant over the remainder of our day’sroute. After a march of
eight miles more we reached the banks of the Arkansas river, where
we encamped. Here we found a large train of wagons, belonging
to Messrs. Hoffman, of Baltimore. i:

Sunday, July 12. We left the Arkansas and marched to Wal-
nut creek, were ve found Mr. Hoffman’s party, they having
started before aaybreak. We here noticed the prairie. gourd
(cucumis perennis) end the cactus, (cactus' opunta;) also the
é pinette de prairie,” or liatris pychnostachia, with a great abun-
‘dance of the common sunflower, (hellanthus annuus;) the bright
scarlet maiva (maiva pedata) and the silver edged euphorbia, (HB.
marginata;) also the purslane, the convolvulus (ipomen lepto-—
phylla) rudbeckia hirta, and a species of cockle burr; and on all
sides the little mounds of loose earth thrown up by the gopher,
, (psedostoma brissarius. ) = Ne ;

We left Walnut creek at 3 o'clock, and entered upon-vast plains
of the buffalo grass, (sesleria dactyloides.) After a march of 11
miles we camped within five miles of the famed Pawnee rock. Our
camp was a mile from the river; but we drove our horses to water
and got our buckets filled. As, there was no wood, we used the
<¢ bois de vache,” and lay down near the smoke of the fires to avoid
the mosquitoes. We had no sticks to support’ our mosquito bars.
When we first arrived, the country around was covered with buf-
falo, but it was too late in the day to hunt; we therefore lay
down quietly with the intention of having a fierce chase in the
morning. s

July 13th.—Last night we had a terrible serenade from a_ large
drove of prairie wolves, (canis latrans.) These animals always
thane on the heels of the buffalo, to pick up the infirm and those
the hunters have wounded, as well as to prey on what is left of the
slaughtered. : ‘ :

We got off in good time, and Lieutenaut Emory, in company of
one of our hunters, started for the buffalo. We saw the chase; as
the herd would divide, and let the horsemen pass through, we heard
the rumbling sound of their magy feet; but at last they crossed the
luff that extends towards the north from Pawnee rock, and were ©
Jost to cut view. Lieutenant Emory killed one of the herd; but
our hunter came into c1mp empty handed. We halted a short time
to pack the buffalo meat, and then proceeded to Ash creek. ‘This
creek was dry, so we continued our route among herds of buffalo
that were continually dashing across o:r road, and at length reached
Pawnee fork after a mareh of 18 suiies.

The waters of this creek were so high that we could not cross;
the trees along the sides of the banks were half hidden; the whirl-
ing eddies were rushing along with great velocity; the willows that
grew on the banks were waving under the strong pressure of the
water, and brush and large logs were hurriedly borne along on the

i

- ‘turbid bosom of the stream. We therefore camped by the side of
the creek to await the subsiding of its » ters. The country around
was covered with the (cucumis peveinis) prairie gourd, and we
found it to be infested with those little striped insects that somuch
annoy the farmer in the United States, by the ravages they commit
amongst the young vines. tate

This creek is timbered with the elm, (ulmus Americana,) and
the box elder, (aceo negundo.) We frequently, during the day,
noticed the purslane and the ‘‘*pinette de prairie;’? in the low
grounds the splendid coreopsis and the euphorbia were displaying
their beauties; and on the uplands the prickly pear was seen in
great abundance, but it had passed its bloom.

During the afternoon a man-by the name of Hughes was drowned
in attempting to cross the’ stream; there were two men with him at
the time, but the current was so violent that it soon swep! him out
ef reach. {is friends brought his clothes to our camp, where they
deft them until they could recover the body.

We saw to-day large flocks of the tropical or yellow-headed
blackbird, (agelajus xantocephalus,) also the common blackbird,
{quis calus versicolor,) and the Baltimore oriole, (icterus’ Baiti-
more.) |

July 14th.—We were obliged to remain here all day, still wait-
ing the pleasures of the waters. In the meanwhile I cet one of
the men to work to dig up a root of the beautiful prairie convol-

~yulus, (ipomea Jeptophylla.) This man worked for several hours,
for the ground was extremely hard, so that he was at last obliged
to tear it up, leaving much of the top root behind. This root ex-
tended for about one foot and of not more than one-half inches in
diameter, then it suddenly enlarged, forming a great tuber, 2 feet
in length and 21 inches in circumference. ‘The Cheyenne Indians
told me that they eat it, that it has a sweet taste, and is good to
cure the fever. They called it badger’s food, and sometimes the
man root, on account of its great size, for they say some of them
are aslarge asa man. We also procured here the Mcxican poppy,
(argemone Mexicana;) noticed quantities of a willow brush, end
several specimens of the tooth-ache iree, (near zanthoxylum fraxi-
num.) This rorning Laing brought me a very large toad, (rana
musica,) far exceeding any I ever before Have seen. During the
day I made a sketch of the country around our camp; the most re-
cognisable feature is the bluff just on the west side of the stream,
close to the ford. Wek |

In -the evening some of us went-over to visit Mr. Hoffman’s
camp; one of the gentlemen attached to the party had just returned
from his first hunt, having killed four fat cows and brought in their
tongues. Thus far we have noticed several plants that have been
so common that I have neglected to mention them. One is the
lead plant, or tea plant, (amorpha canesceris,) and is in some places
so abundant as to displace almost every other herb; the other is
what our men call prairie indigo, (baptisia leucantha,) it bears a
large black cylindrical pod, filled with kidney-shaped seed.

July 15th.—This morning we commenced making a raft, deter-

400 Ex. Doe. No. 4l

mined to wait no longer, and by sundown had completed a raft of
dry wood, capable of bearing 1,000 pounds without being over-
loaded. The men worked with great energy, and it was truly ex-
citing to see them straddle the huge logs and float down in the
rapid current whose waters were rushing along with such a fierce ra-
pidity, dimpiing the surface of the stream with miniature whirpools,
and meking the willows, now covered midway by the inundating
waters, bend and spring as if moved by a hurricane. Sometimes
rafts of brush and loose logs came rushing along, but the men stuck
fast to the logs they bestrode, screaming out in wild excitement,
as if to drown the gurgling sound of the wild waters.

To-day we saw several large white cranes with black-tipped
wings; (grus Americanus,) and Laing killed me some rattlesnakes,
(crotalus horridus) and several prairie snakes. Along the creek
we found an abundance of plums (prunus virgins) and cherries. |

Thursday, 16th.—As our raft was now completed we commenced
crossing a'l our:camp equipage, and by 11 o’clock everything was.
safely transferred to the south side of the stream. We were obliged
toe carry over much less at a time than we had hoped to have done,
for our raft, built of the dryest wood that we could find, became
water logeed.. The elm and box elder were the only trees we could
get, and when green their specific gravity is but little less than
that of water.. The wagon body was placed upon the raft to dis-
tribute the weight that might be placed in it-equably.. A rope was
stretched across on which a noose could slide, and this noose, by along
rope, was attached to our raft to prevent its being swept away in case
the stretched rope should break. This precaution proved most.
wise, as the rope did break, but*the knots upon it prevented the
noose from sliding off, and our craft swung round into an eddy
where it was comparatively calm.

We now proceeded to cross our cavalcade; some of the horses
were first driven and went bravely over; others were very trouble.
some, but at length, seeing their companions enjcying the luxuriant
grass, they all ‘plunged in and arrived safe on the opposite side.
Some had to struggle hard to get up the banks, that, in addition to
their steepness, were covered with a thick coating of mud, depos-
ited by the waters. It was a beautiful sight to see some of the
finest of our horses spring from the high banks of the stream, to
see the splash of spray as it showered around when the horse dis-
appeared, and again to see the noble animal rise above the wave,
snorting and dashing the waters from his mane, as he swam for the
opposite shore. Our Indian lad seemed to enter into the spirit of
the scene; he seized the cabresto of one of the wildest horses and
dragged him down into the water; running out upon the raft, he
stood for a moment, and then plunged into the stream, throwing
his arms alternately as he dashed across. It is in such scenes as
this that the Indians excel; their Ane limbs, dark hair, and flashing
eye lend all the imagination could desire to perfect the wild grace
of motion, the picturesque of attitude that such occasions develops.

The water had fallen nearly 3 feet during the past night, and as
it still continued to fall, the troops commenced crossing at the

Ex. Doe. No: 41. — 401

regular ford, which is one-fourth of a mile above us; but lost sey-
eral of their horses. To-day, the man who was drowned yester.
day was buried, his body having been found by our men engaged
in rafting. . His friends sent to us for his clothes ig which to bury
him; and, before the sun weat down, he was deposited in his long
resting place: ‘‘requiescat in pace.”

At-11 o’clock, Colonel Doniphan came to our camp and informed
us that General Kearny wished to see us: We afterwards learned
_ that the general had some inquiries to make in regard to the route
by the Smoky Hill fork; @ route that Lieutenant Peck and myself
had travelled when we ‘were attached to the command of Colonel
Frémont; but the roughness of that country, the absence of all
roads, and the scarcity of water and wood, and the poverty of the ~
pasturage, render the Arkansas riverroute much to be preferred.

At 3 o’elock we commenced our march, and soon struck a road
that we pursued until near 10 o’clock at night, when we encamped
near some pools of water, having been made aware of our approach
to them some time before they were in sight, by the cry of the kill-
deer plovers, (charadrius vociferous.) We soon kindled our fires of
“‘bois de vache,” and then found we had camped in a prairie
dog village; abad place for picketing horses, as the neighborhood
is generally destitute of grass. On our march we obtained a sin-
gular species of cactus, resembling roundish bodies coyered with
long protuberances, wnose tips were crowned with stars of white
spines, (near mammilarea sulcata.)

We saw during the day many skylarks; (alanda alpertris;) they
allowed us to approach quite close before they took wing and as
they flew through the air sang sweetly.

Friday, 17th.—We have now entered that portion of the prairie
that well deserves to be considered part of the great desert. The
short, curly buffalo grass (sesleria dactyloides) is seen in all di-
rections; the plain is dotted with cacti and thistle, (carduns lan-
ceolatus,) while only in buffalo wallows one meets the silver mar-
gined euphorbia; and in the prairie dog villages, a species of ascle-
pias, with truncated leaves. f

We saw several wild horses; in one group there were three, and
with our spy glasses we had a fine opportunity for examining them.
There was a bay, a roan, and a black; they stood for some time
gazing at us as if completely absorbed in looking at the strange
sight, when, as we approached, they raised their long flowing tails
and dashed off withtheir long manes waving round their necks, and
witha speed that soon carried them out of view. Unlikethe mus-
tangs, these looked to be large and beautifully proportioned.

Buffaloes seemed as if trying to surround us. We saw scarcely
anything else far or near. The whole horizon was lined with them,
and their figures would sometimes shoot up to an immense height,’
as their change of position caused the visual rays to pass through
mediums of different refracting power, while seeming lakes would
spring into existence, whose farthest shore seemed widely sepa-
rated from us by the broad volume of water that intervened,
Lhere were ae dusky wolves (canis nubilus) prowling around

7

402 ee Doc. No, 41. ©

the buffalos the latter paid no regard to them, but let the wolves
approach without showing the least repugnance, although the
wolves devour the young calves and attack the cows at certain
periods when they are least able to defend themselves. This species
of wolf does not congregate in large packs like the prairie wolf,
but roams solitary. : pes

This evening five Pawnee Indians came into our camp. They
were on foot, naked, and had their faces painted. As our party
was very small, and we knew from the behavior of these fellows
that there were plenty of Indians near us, we changed our posi-
tion for one more defensible. All our horses were picketed close
to the camp; the cabrestoes were shortened; wagons and tents ar-
ranged, so as to form a compact ring; the arms examined and the
guard doubled; the whole camp was in a state of watchfulness,
momentarily expecting an attack. I lay for the greater part of
the night by the side of a wagon, with my rifle across the tongue,
constantly expecting to see some redskins crawling amongst our
horses; but the night was undisturbed, save with the howling of
wolves and the bellowing of buffalo.

Saturday, 18th.—This morning, as soon as it was light, we saw a
large band of buffalo, not more than 300 yards from us, walking
slowly to the ponds close by; they were to the west of us, and as
the wind did not blow towards them they paid but little regard to
our proximity.

Some of the patriarchs of the band were on the lead; they were
all moving with slow and measured tread, as if attending a funeral.
Now and then some of them would cast a sinister glance towards
us, but still continued to move on with the same slow pace. I
got my spy-glass in order to examine them with great minuteness,
and thence commenced making sketches. Soon there was a gene-
ral commotion amongst the buffalo; they raised their tails, tossed
their heads into the air; now and then the bulls would dash at each
other, when suddenly the whole band separated into small dense
croups that scampered off to the four winds of heaven. We instinc-
tively grasped our guns, not knowing whether friend or foe might
appear, and soon saw a number of horsemen urging their jaded
steeds under the pricky spur. At every touch the impatient riders
gave, the tails of the wearied horses were thrown into the air, and
the slow gait at which they moved showed that they had been riding
fast and far. They were pursuing a buffalo of immense size, ap-
parently wounded; the buffalo now turned, but his intended victim
shyed, and as the horsemen passed by, we saw the smoke of seve-
ral shots burst forth; the horsemen now turned, and ere long the
buffalo lay extended upon the ground. We saw them all dismount,
and in a little while after Captain Karsons rodeinto our camp. We
inguired the position of the main body, which we were anxious to
rejoin, for ourselves were suffering from the harrassing night we
had passed, and our horses were suffering from our being necessi-
tated to picket them so closely for fear of Indians; and both our--
selves and our horses daily suffered from want of water. As we were
moving along,a band of buffaloes ran towards us; but as they passed,
kept off some distance, running parallel with the road. Our Indian

~

Ex. Doc. No. 41. i 403

friend noticed them, and as they passed, dismounted, stooped down,
and drew up his rifle; as the smoke burst forth from the muzzle of
his piece, we saw a fine buffalo cow lash her ‘heels high in the air,.
and then continued to jump and kick for a quarter of a mile or
more, when she fell and all the rest of the herd gathered around
her. We already had the meat of two fat cows, and as. the wag-
ons were so far from the place where the cow had fallen, she was
left to feed the wolves.

The ruts of the road were full of little lizards, sunning themselves;
as we approached they would dart briskly away, manifestly disin-
clined to play the part of devotees to Juggernaut.

In crossing to the river we found the ground in many places co-
vered with beautiful gallardias (g. amblyodon) and the eupatorium,
while in the moist grounds we saw the curious dodder twining in
its golden tendrils all the plants that grew around it, forming an
inextricable entanglement.

Among the birds, we saw many of the sky-larks and several avo-
sets (recuroirostra ames.) The tail and its coverts white, wings
black and white, legs blue, and bill recurved.

When we first struck the river, we met with Major Clark’s bat- |
-talion of artillery, a fine body of troops, well uniformed and of sol-
dierly bearing. |

Having marched a few miles along the river bank, we formed our.
camp, after travelling this day a distance of 19 miles. =

Sunday, July 19th.—Marching along the Arkansas bottom one ig
struck with the variety of swamp grasses. Here we find the trian-
gular grass, (scirpus triguctio,)-and mingled with it in great abund-
ance the scouring rush (equisetum hyemale) and the beautiful lia-
tris (liatris spicata.)

After we had started, I went back three miles to meet Gen. Kear
ny in order to get some one to go with us and show us the exact location
of the capture of the party of Texans by Capt. Cooke, 2d dragoons,
in 1843. General Kearny detailed Lieutenant Love, who showed
us the spot that we sought. On the south side of the river, there
is a large grove of cotton wood trees that extends some distance
along the river bank, and is the first grove of any size that the
travelle> west meets after passing Pawnee fork, which, by the
route we came, is 64 miles distant.

In the evening we went to General Kearny’s camp to get some of
the horses shod. We had expected to have gone not more than
three or four miles, but only reached them after a ride of eight
miles, so deceived were we with regard to the distance by the pu-
rity of the atmosphere. As it was quite late, we concluded to re-
main here until the camp should overtake us in the morning.

Monday, 20th.—This morning we had not marched far when we saw
General Kearny’s guard stop and encamp. Soon Lieutenant Emory,
who had crossed the river, rode over and informed us that Gen-
eral Kearny was very ill, and ordered one of our wagons to remain
for the purpose of conveying the general on by easy stages; for
our wagon was light and had good springs, while all the other wa-. ,

404 ‘Ex. Doe. No. 41,

gons with the army were without springs and roughly built, like»

common Santa Fé trade wagons.

‘This day we made a march of 31} miles, passing along the top of
y 2 P g g Pp

a barren ridge, between one and two miles from the river. No-

thing was to be seen but the curly buifalo grass, now parched by.

the summer’s heat. The sun poured down his rays most lavishly;
the men all dismounted and walked, in order to rest and to re-

lieve themselves from the singular sensation produced by the heat.

First one and then another of the party became iJ], and several

-. were seized with a severe vomiting. .
In the evening I went over to Major Clarke’s camp, in order to,
have an axletree made. There I saw many who appeared to be ill;

amongst them were Captain Weightman and Lieutenant Dorn.

I returned to our camp and passed a sleepless time, listening to
the footsteps of the guard; and, now and then, the conversation of
the French boys broke upon the stillness of the night; they, too,
were not able to sleep soundly. We were all extremeiy anxious
with regard to General Kearny’s health.

Tuesday, July 2\st.—This morning we presented quite a sorry look- -
Yow SGP q y

ing array of human faces. At day-break I was seized witha vomiting,
which lasted some time; I was obliged to send for the doctor. I
however determined to push forward in compliance with the order
of Lieutenant Emory, who was with General Kearny, and commit-
ted myself to the wagoner’s care, while Lieutenant Peck took com-
mand of the camp. lying here, my eye roved over but a con-
fined prospect; under me were bundles of bedding, with blankets,
red, blue and white; near me, a sick man, languidly gazing upward;
above me, the bended bows of the wagon that supported a large

front, through a little hole, one caught sight of the landscape
dancing to and fro as the wagon jolted along.

We formed our camp, after a march of 11 miles, at the Santa Fé
crossing, and in the vicinity of Major Clarke’s battalion of artil-
lery, so that we could have an opportunity of completing our axle-
tree that we began yesterday. We soon saw our wagon, and
learned that General Kearny had perfectly recovered.

At this place we obtained some beautiful! purple lilies, (eustoma
russeliana,) and Mr. Nourse brought me a psoralia, with a monose-
palous calyx. On the opposite side of the river there are several
Indian bodies, wrapped in blankets and skins, exposed on _ plat-
forms of lodge poles, high up in cottonwood trees, where they are
safe from wolves and the sacrilegious touch of men. The air of

the prairie produces rapid desiccation, and, in this respect, resem--

bles that of Egypt and the islands of the ancient Guanches. |
From the 21st of July until our arrival at Bent’s fort, on the 29th,
being all the time sick, I have no recollection ofe¢anything that

transpired, excepting a drawing that I made of the sand rat, (pseu-_

dostoma brissarius.) The body and legs are covered with yellow-
ish brown hair, plumbeous at the base; belly,-white; anterior claws,
strong and large; posterior claws, short; iris, black; ear, projecting
slightly. On each side of the upper jaw are two exterior pouches,.

‘white cover, through which the sun beat with intense heat; and, in —

With

Ex. Doc. No. 41. 0 Sie

14-5 inches in depth; tail covered with short hair, a little less
in length than one half the length of the body; body about 6 inches
in length. The pouch is covered with short white hair, and ‘capa-
ble of being turned inside out. This,.I think, was a young .one;
hence the slight differences in the size and the color of its legs, and
the tail being covered with hair.

Captain Turner, of the Ist dragoons, brought me a (ortygometra
carolinus;) these birds are in\ plenty along the Arkansas bottom;
this one was caught after a short chase, for it flew a short distance
only, when it appeared to be too much fatigued, or too much
bewildered to rise again. ye

Of the plants that occur between the Arkansas crossing and
Bent’s fort, I cannot do better than refer to the list appended to
this report, in which they are arranged in the family to which
they belong, and the locality mentioned in which they were
obtained.

As one approaches Bent’s fort, he meets with many varieties of
artemisia, with the obione canescens, and a plant which is ex-
tremely useful to the Mexicans as a substitute for soap, by them
called the palmillo, by us Adams needle, or Spanish bayonet; its
botanical name is the yucca angustifolia. We also have the
prairie gourd, (cucumis perennis;) that is abundant also from Bent’s
fort to Santa Fé. We have the bartonia, several varieties of
solanas, several varieties of cenothera, the martynia, the cleome,
the salicornia, ipomea, and erigonums., Amongst the trees, several
varieties of, populus; amongst which are’ the populus canadensis
and p. monolifera; several varieties of salix, and the plum and
cherry. . |

Amongst the animals, we have the panther, (felis concolor;) the
wild cat, (felis rufa;) the white wolf, (canis nubilus;) the prairie.
wolf, (canis latrans;) the silver-grey fox, (canis cinerea argentus;)
and the prairie fox, (canis velox;) prairie dog, (arctomys ludo=
viciana;) the gopher, (pseudostoma brissarius;) the antelope, (dicra-
nocerus furcifer;) the grey bear, (ursus ferox;) also a species of
vespertitia and species of ground-squirrel; it is said that there are
three different varieties. Along the Arkansas, where there is suff-
cient cover, one finds the red deer, (cevus virgin.,) one also finds
the badger, (taxus labradoricus;) and the polecat, (mephitis
Amer.) The Indians at the fort showed me.a racoon (procyon
lotor) skin, they said had been obtained in the neighborhood.

Amongst the birds, the turkey vulture, (cathartes atra;) wild
turkey, (meleagris gallipavo;) quail, (ortix virgina;) red-headed
woodpecker, (picus erythrocephalus;) meadow lark, (sturnella
ludoviciana;) night hawk, (chorodeiles virgins;) cow-birds, (molo-
thrus pecoris;) dove, (ectopistes carolin;) flickers, (picus au-
ratus;) raven, (corvus corone;) and the railtailed buzzard, (batco
borealis.) There has also been found on the Arkansas, within
eight miles of Bent’s fort, a singular and but little known bird,
called the pasana, (geococyx viaticus.)

406 Ex. Doc. No. 41.
RANUNCULACE.

Clematis Virginiana. Raton pass and the mountain passes near
Santa Fé. r
Delphinium azureum. Raton pass.
Podophyllum peltatum. Woods near Kanzas river, and at Coun-
cil grove. -
~ Ranunculus acris. Near the Wakaroosa buttes.
Thalicterum cornuté. Near Pawnee fork. ’
_ Anemone Pennsylvaniana. Between “‘E] Rio Cafiadian”’ and
“1 Rio Moro.” —
Ranunculus aquatalis. Found in the ‘‘ Raton creek’? and head
waters of the Purgatory creek.

MENISPERMACE.
Menispermum Canadense. Near “ Big John spring.”

PAPAVERACEA,

Argemone Mexicana. First seen at ‘‘Pawnee fork,” thence on
to the Moro.

Sanguinaria Canads. Woods .near the Missouri and ‘Kaw
rivers. j

CAPPARIDACEZ.

Polenisia graveolens. Near ‘ Bent’s Fort,” and in the valley of
the Timpas.
.. Cleone intequifolia. At ‘ Big Sandy creek,” “ Bent’s Fort,”,and ©
Canadian.

VIOLACE.
Viola cucullata. Banks of ‘‘ Pawnee fork.”
CARYOPHYLLACE.
Lyclinis. Woods of Council grove.
HYPERICEA.
“Hypericum ellipticum. August 11.
PORTULACE.

Portulacca oleracea. By the road side from ‘‘ Pawnee fork’ to
the crossing of the Arkansas. :

Ex. Doc. No. 41. 407
LINACER.
Linum regidum. From ‘ Pawnee fork’? to “¢ Arkansas crossing.”
GERANICEZ.
Geranium Frémontia. Occurs throughout the ‘Raton pass.’’
OXALIDACES. |

Oxalis yiolacea. Near Council grove.
—stricta. From Kaw river to Council grove.

ANACARDIACE.

Rhus glabrum. Bank ‘“ Kaw river” and Wakaroosa river.
radicans. Woods at ‘* Big John spring.’
near R. aromatica.. August 13.

MALVACE.

Spheralcae stellata, Torr. and Gr. ‘‘Raton pass’ and “ Rio
Cafiadian.”
Sida coccinea. Arkansas river and El Rio Canadian. —
Malva pedata. Cottonwood fork and bottoms of Arkansas river.
Sida, (new species.) August 17.

VITACE.

Vitis zstivalis. Along the Arkansas river and Purgatory creek.
riparia. Stranger creek.
vulpina. 110 Mile creek.

RHAMNACE.

Ceanothus ovalis, var. intermedia, (Torr. and Gr.) Kaw river and
Council Grove.
Americanus. Fort Leavenworth.

ACERACE.

Acer negundo. Banks of Pawnee fork.

LEGUMINOSE.

Astragalus. Bent’s fort and Ocaté creek.

Glycyrrhiza glabra. Arkansas river.

Gymnocladus Canads. Kaw river.

Petalostemum, (new species.) At ‘‘ Ojo Vernal.”

Psoralea esculenta. pee 3 1y fig creek” and along the Arkansas
river.

408 Ex. Doe. No. 41.

Robinia pseudo acacia. Purgatory. saat near the Raton pass-

Baptisia lencantha. As far as Pawnee fork.

Cassia chamecrista. First seen July 3, thence to the Arkansas
crossing.

Petalostemum candidum. High prairies, as far as Bent’s Fort.

violaceum. With the preceding.

Psoralea floribunda. Pawnee fork.

Dalea laxifolia. With the preceding.

Lathyrus linearis. August 9. . ~

Amorpha canescens. Fort Leavenworth to Pawnee fork.

Schrankia uncinata. Stranger creek to Arkansas crossing.

Darlingtonia brachy-loba. Pawnee fork and 110 Mile creek.

Glycyrrhiza lepidota. August 13. .

Cereis Canads.. Kanzas river.

ROSACEA.

Cerasus Virginiana. Kanzas river, Arkansas river, and Purga-
tory creek.

Fragaria Virginiana. Kaw river.

Rubus occidentalis. Missouri river and Kaw river.

villosus. With the preceding. -

Prunus Amer. Pawnee fork, Arkansas river, id Cafiadian
river.

Cralegus coccineus. Stranger creek.

Rosa lucida. Kaw river.

ONAGRACEZ.

Gnothera. Several species occur from Kaw river to Bent’s Fort.
Gaura coccinea. August 13.

LOASEA.
Mentzelia nuda. Bent’s Fort and valley of the Timpas.

GROSSULARIACE.

Ribes accreum. Purgatory creek and Timpas, near its head.
triflorum. Diamond spring.

CACTACEZ.

Opuntia Missouriana. Pawnee fork, Purgatory creek, and Cafia-
dian river.
Mammillaria sulcata. Near Pawnee fork.

CORNACE.

Cornus paniculata. Big John spring.
stolonifera. Stranger creek.
Florida. Kaw river.

"Re Doe Not. 409
CAPRIFOLIA:

Symphoncarpus glomeratis. Purgatory creek.’
occidentalis. With the preceding.
Symphora racemosa. Big John spring.

UMBELLIFER ©.

Sium latifolium. Diamond spring.
Angelica. Head water, Purgatory creek.
Eryngium aquaticum. Near Wakaroosa creek.

RUBIACER.

Galium tinctorum. Ponds near Lost spring.
Cephalanthus occidentalis. Stranger creek.

COMPOSITE.

Senecio (near) palustris. Raton.

filifolius. Bent’s fort to Santa Fé.
Rudbeckia. Fort Leavenworth to Arkansas crossing.

hirta. Lost spring to Jackson’s grove’
Erigeron strigonium. Pawnee fork.
Eupatorium purpureum. Turkey creek, Arkansas crossing, and
Bent’s fort. sur ae

Eurotia lanata. Rio Cafiadian to Santa Fé and south.
Frémontia vermiculs. Valley of the Timpas.
Grindelia squarrosa. Arkansas river, near the crossing.
Solidago altissima. Bent’s fort.
Solidago. Cotton-wood fork.
Liatris spicata. Crossing of the Arkansas river.

squarrosa. Plum buttes.
Sil phium lacenatum. From Fort Leavenworth to Cottonwood.
‘Coreopsis tinctorea. Turkey creek to Bent’s fort.
Asters. With the preceding.
Gaillardia amblyodon. Plum buttes, and on the Moro. '

With the Beemer Aes ii Janceo-
late.)
piumatifida. y
Helianthus. Abundant from Coro creek to Sante Fé.
dentatus. At San Miguel.

ERICACE.
Arctostaphylos uranasi. Council grove.
LOBELIACEZ.

Lobelia leptostacliza. Cottonwood fork.
cardinalis. Bent’s fort.

410 Ex. Doc. No. 41.

CAMPANULACE.
Daapanule rotundifolia. Raton pass.

; OLEACEE. 3 :
Fraxinus Amenicanus: Ash creek.
APOCYNACEA. habs

Apocinum androsacmifolium. Lost spring. | ‘

ASCLEPIADACE.

Asclepias verticillata. Stranger creek and Pawnee fork.
tuberosa. Fort Leavenworth to Cottonwood fork.

CONVOLVULACEZ.

Ipomea loptephe lta. Walnut creek to the Canadian river.
Cuscuta Americana. In the bottoms near the ‘‘caches.”
Convolvulus. (Near sepium.) August 14.

Euploca convolvulacee. Raton pass.

BORAGINACE.
Myosotis glomerata. Arkansas river, near caches.
POLEMONIACEA:.
Gilia (cautua) longiflora. Raton pass.
i LABIATA.

Hedeoma leptophylla. Near crossing of Arkansas
Monarda fistulosa. Near caches.

To hamaet: allophylla. 110 creek; Cottonwood fork.
Mentha peperita. — Bent’s fort.
Salvia azurea. Arkansas bottoms and New Mexico.
Teucrium Virginicum. ~ Pawnee fork.

SOLANACEZ.

Solanum nigrum. Bent’s fort.
ee. triflorum.’ « Arkansas river, hear crossing.
Nycterum lobatum. From the caches to Bent’s fort.
Physalis. August 4.
lobatum. Near Bent’s fort.

Ex. Doc. No. 41. AIL
SCROPHULARIACES.
Pedicularis canads. Near Pawnee font.
CHENOPODIACE.

_ Chenopodium‘album.3F From Fort Leavenworth to crossing.
_ Frémontia vermicularis. Purgatory creek and Timpas.
Artemisia. Purgatory creek.
_ Obione canescens. Valley of the Timpas.
— salicornia herbacea. Arkansas river crossing.

VERBENACESA.

6

=~ erbena pinnatifida.. {Rio Canadian and Rio Bens.
Sg angustifolia.~ Little Arkansas river.
_. Lippia euneifolia. From Pawnee fork to Santa Fe.

CUCURBITACE.
Cucumis perennis. From Walnut creek to Santa Fé.
NICTAGINEA.

Oxybaphus, (new to me.) Torr. Slender branching spears. ‘Rio
los Animas.”
nictaginea. Raton and ‘‘Rio Canadian.”

POLYGONACE.

Erigonum. = Walnut creek.
tomentosum. Council grove.
Polygonum, (long lacerated sheath, no flowers.) Walnut creek.
amphibium. Turkey creek.

LAURACE. |
Laurus benzoin. Kaw river and Council grove.
EUPHORBIACEA.

Euphorbiagmarginata. Pawnee fork to Bent’s fort.
hypericifolia. Turkey creek.
2 By the road side, near the ‘‘caches,’’ and in the
buffalo wallows.
Croton capitatum. Crossing of the Arkansas river.

Al2 Ex. Doe. No. 41.
URTICACER.

Humulus lupulus. Raton pass and Canadian river.
Morus rubra. Council grove and Kaw river.
Urtica canadensis. Kaw river and Stranger creek.

_ ULMACER.

Ulmus Americana. Pawnee fork.
Celtis crassifolia. Woods at Council grove.

- AMENTACE.
Salix longifolia. Council grove, 110 Mile creek.
' (no: flowers or fruit.) Arkansas river. -
Populus monolifera. Timpas, at head of Purgatory creek.
canadensis. F'rom Kaw river to Santa Fé.
(new tome.) Torr. Rio Canadian.
Salix augustifolia. Arkansas river.

CONIFERS.

Juniperus Virginica. Timpas, and from Purgatory creek to Santa
Fé.
(different from Virginica. ) Torrey. Near Santa Fé.
Pinus monophyllus. Raton pass to Santa Fé.
rigida. As above.

Ex. Doc. No. 41. 4a

MONOCOTYLEDONOUS OR ENDOGENOUS PLANTS.

ALISMACEAS.
Sagittaria sagittifolia. Head of Timpas.
MELANTHACEA.

Melanthuim Virginicum. Stranger creek and Wakaroosa river.

LILACEZ.

Yucca angustifolia. From Bent’s fort to “*Fra Cristobal.”
Lilium tigrinum. Wakaroosa river.

Enstoma Ruseliana. Bottom of Arkansas-and Canadian.
Alluim yienale? Raton pass.

JUNEACEA.
Juncus tenuis. Raton pass.

COMMELINACE. :
Tradescantia Virginica. Fort Leavenworth to “ 110 Mile creel.) aA
rosea. With the preceding.
Commelina angustifolia. Pawnee rock and Raton pass.
(long accuminated spatha.) Raton.

SMILACEA.

Smilax rotundifolia. Kaw river, Council grove, and 110 Mile
creek.

CYPERACEZ.

Scispus triqueter. Low grounds near Arkansas crossing.
atrovirens. Pawnee fork.

Cypetus filiculmis. Little Arkansas.

Carex festuca. Wakaroosa river.

GRAMINE.

_ Arundo phragmites. Arkansas, Timpas, and Cafiadian rivers.
_ Sesleria dactyloides. Pawnee fort to Bent’s fort.

Ex. Doc. No. 41

Ries vin. Stranger cares .
Atheropogon olygostachium. Canadian river.
Koeleria nitida. ‘Pawnee fork.

EQUISETACEA

Equisetum hyemale. Near crossing of the Arkansas.

UTIO

win