Skip to main content

Full text of "Report of the International Ice Patrol service in the North Atlantic Ocean"

See other formats


Marine    Biological    Laboratory 


R,,,„,eH      Oct,   14,   1948 


Aeee^ion-  No    P^*   ^-  ^*  Montgomery 

Given  By         "^'^oods  Hole  Oceanographic 
Institution 


Place, 


/?6H 


^vy^yV^AA^.^*^ 


U.  S.  TREASURY  DEPARTMENT 
COAST  GUARD 


Bulletin  No.  19 


THE  "MARION"  EXPEDITION 

TO 

DAVIS  STRAIT  AND  BAFFIN  BAY 

UNDER  DIRECTION  OF 
THE  UNITED  STATES  COAST  GUARD 

1928 


SCIENTIFIC  RESULTS 
PART  1 

The  Bathymetry  and  Sediments  of  Davis  Strait 


DA! 


NOBLE  G.  RICKETTS 
PARKER  D.  TRASK 


UNITED   STATES 

GOVERNMENT   PRINTING   OFFICE 

WASHINGTON  :  1932 


For  sale  by  the  Superintendent  of  Documents,  Washington,  D.  C.  -  Price  500   (paper  cover) 


CONTENTS 


Page 

Foreword --    V 

Chapter  I 

Introduction 1 

Description  of  vessel  and  api)aratus 1 

Personnel 3 

Narrative  of  the  ex])edition 4 

Chapter  II 

The  bathymetry 53 

Introduction 53 

Description  of  apparatus  and  methods 53 

Corrections  a{)plied  to  the  echo  soundings 57 

Final  results 59 

Charts Following  page  60 

Chapter  III 

The  sediments 62 

Introduction 62 

General  remarks 62 

I  nterpretation  of  mechanical  analyses 63 

Description  of  sediments 67 

The  origin  of  the  sediments 70 

Characteristics  of  sediments  of  ice-borne  origin 77 

Table  1 '      78 

2                    79 

3 • 79 

4         80 

5 81 

III 


THE  NORTHERN  PORTION  OF  THE  NORTH  ATLANTIC  OCEAN 

Figure  1. — This  map  shows  the  general  location  of  the  region  which  was  investigated  hy 
the  Marion  expedition  during  the  summer  of  1928.  All  of  the  Marion's  work  was 
done  between  Disko  Bay,  in  west  Greenland,  and  the  northeast  coast  of  Newfoundland. 
For  a  more  detailed  chart  of  the  area  actually  surveyed,  see  Figure  39.  The  latter 
shows  the  track  of  the  ship  and  gives  all  the  important  place  names. 


IV 


FOREWORD 


Prior  to  the  loss  of  the  Titanfc,  on  April  14,  1912,  as  the  result  of 
a  collision  with  an  iceberg  in  the  North  Atlantic,  no  patrol  was 
maintained  in  the  region  of  the  Grand  Banks  for  the  purpose  of 
safeguarding  lives  and  property  against  the. iceberg  peril,  and  no 
systematic  study  had  been  made  of  physical  and  oceanographic  con- 
ditions pertaining  to  icebergs  and  their  drift  in  the  North  Atlantic. 
While  a  patrol  of  the  ice  zone  was  maintained  during  the  seasons  of 
1912  and  1913  to  meet  an  almost  universal  demand,  arising  from  the 
Titamc  catastrophe,  for  protection  against  the  iceberg  menace,  it 
was  not  until  the  season  of  1914  that  the  United  States  Government 
undertook  the  management  of  the  international  service  of  study  and 
observation  of  ice  conditions  and  of  ice  patrol,  pursuant  to  the  Inter- 
national Convention  for  the  Safety  of  Life  at  Sea  signed  on  Janu- 
ary 20,  1914.  This  was  a  new  and  important  duty,  inaugurating  the 
entry  of  the  United  States  Coast  Guard  into  an  international  service 
of  iceberg  scouting  and  patrol,  and  into  a  field  of  scientific  study  and 
research  not  previously  developed  nor  sufficiently  known. 

The  early  history  of  the  International  Service  of  Ice  Observation 
and  Ice  Patrol  represented  a  pioneering  service  and  purpose  not 
onh^  to  maintain  an  efficient  patrol  worthy  of  the  high  standards 
and  traditions  of  the  United  States  Coast  Guard,  but  also  to  ac- 
cumulate scientific  data  to  afford  an  intelligent  understanding  of  the 
forces  of  nature  having  an  effect  on  or  a  relationship  to  the  iceberg 
menace.  With  the  growing  importance  of  a  knowledge  of  ocean 
currents,  and  of  the  source,  characteristics,  and  drifts  of  icebergs  in 
the  conduct  of  this  international  service,  ever}^  opportunity  was 
availed  of  and  every  effort  directed,  each  ice  season,  toward  assem- 
bling data  and  making  studies  of  oceanographic  conditions  in  the 
Grand  Banks  region.  The  data  gathered  during  the  ice  seasons 
Avere  supplemented  by  observations  made  during  special  cruises  at 
other  j^eriods  of  the  year  in  order  to  study  seasonal  changes  in  ocean 
currents  and  water  temperatures.  Each  succeeding  season  brought 
to  light  extensiA'e  and  important  data  in  furtherance  of  our  knowl- 
edge of  the  elements  entering  into  the  study  of  ice  conditions,  and 
strengthening  and  corroborating  opinions  held  as  a  result  of  prior 
scientific  investigations.  Reports  of  these  observations  were  pub- 
lished in  the  annual  bulletins  of  the  International  Service  of  Ice 
Observation  and  Ice  Patrol. 

With  the  accumulation  and  studies  made  of  scientific  data  since 
the  inauguration  of  the  Ice  Observation  and  Ice  Patrol  Service,  it  is 
believed  that  sufficient  information  is  now  available  to  permit  of 
the  publication  of  a  treatise  dealing  with  the  subject  of  icebergs 
and  their  distribution  and  drift  in  the  North  Atlantic  Ocean,  em- 


VI  FOEEWORD 

bodying  conclusions  and  scientific  results  of  many  years  of  intense 
specialized  study  and  research.  To  broaden  the  scope  of  this  work 
and  to  o})tain  data  necessary  for  a  complete  analysis  and  exposition 
of  the  iceberg  situation  and  related  subjects,  the  Marion  expedition 
was  dispatched  in  the  summer  of  1928  to  carry  out  an  oceanographic 
survey  of  the  waters  between  Greenland  and  the  North  American 
Continent,  with  especial  reference  to  a  study  of  ice  conditions.  The 
observations  made  during  this  cruise,  in  addition  to  being  helpful 
to  the  completeness  of  the  treatise  on  icebergs,  have  also  been  made 
the  subject  of  separate  publications  dealing  with  the  bathymetry  and 
sediments,  and  with  the  physical  oceanography  of  Davis  Strait, 
representing  important  contributions  to  the  scientific  knowledge  of 
this  area.  The  results  of  this  research  work,  and  of  years  of  study 
and  observations  are  being  published  in  three  parts  under  the  title  of 
"  The  Marion  Expedition  to  Davis  Strait  and  Baffin  Bay." 

These  contributions  to  our  knowledge  of  the  iceberg  problem  mark 
an  epoch  in  the  international  Service  of  Ice  Observation  and  Ice 
Patrol,  and  great  credit  and  praise  are  due  the  authors.  Their  work 
presents  a  most  comprehensive  and  valuable  reference  on  the  sub- 
jects treated,  and  undoubtedly  will  form  a  foundation  and  a  guide 
for  any  future  studies  or  research  work  which  may  be  undertaken 
along  similar  lines. 

F.    C.    BiLLARD, 

Rear  Admiral,  United  States  Coast  Guard, 

Commandant,  United  States  Coast  Guard, 
Chairman  Interdepartmental  Board  on  Interna- 
tional Service  of  Ice  Ohservation  and  Ice  Patrol. 


THE  LEADER  OF  THE  EXPEDITinN 

Figure  2.— Lieut.  Commander  Edward  H.  Smith,  United  States  Coast  Guard  leader  of 
the  Marion  expedition.  At  the  termination  of  the  World  War,  Lieutenant  Commander 
Smith  was  assigned  by  the  Coast  Guard  to  its  ice-patrol  service.  There  he  spent  10 
years,  and  it  was  because  of  this  work  that  he  was  chosen  to  command  the  Marion 
during  her  Arctic  cruise.  The  instrument  is  a  Greene-Bigelow  water  bottle — a  «<'vice 
used  to  obtain  a  sample  of  the  water  and  the  temperature  from  any  level  to  which 
it  is  lowered. 

VII 


THE  "  MARION  "  EXPEDITION  TO  DAVIS  STRAIT  AND 

BAFFIN  BAY 

NOIJLE    G.    RiCKETTS 


Chapter  I 


IXTRODUCTIOX 


In  1928  the  United  States  Coast  Guard  sent  the  Marion  expedition 
north  into  Davis  Strait  and  Baffin  Bay  to  carr}^  out  scientific  investi- 
ofations  connected  with  the  international  ice  patrol.  The  object  of 
the  expedition  Avas  to  obtain  all  the  information  possible  regarding 
ocean  currents,  depths,  and  ice  conditions  in  the  region  to  the  north 
of  that  usually  covered  by  the  ice-patrol  vessels  each  spring  and 
summer.  The  leader  of  the  Marion  expedition.  Lieut.  Commander 
Edward  H.  Smith.  United  States  Coast  Guard,  has  fully  worked  up 
the  scientific  data  that  was  obtained  about  oceanography  and  ice. 
The  reader  is  referred  to  United  States  Coast  Guard  Bulletin  19, 
part  3,  for  the  report  relating  to  Arctic  ice  and  its  drift  into  the 
Xorth  Atlantic  Ocean,  and  to  United  States  Coast  Guard  Bulletin 
19,  part  2,  for  the  re])ort  relating  to  the  oceanography  of  Baffin  Bay 
and  Davis  Strait.  The  former  publication  was  printed  in  1931  and 
the  latter  will  be  distributed  at  an  early  date.  The  present  paper, 
constituting  part  1  of  the  Bulletin  19  series  dealing  with  the  Marion 
expedition,  contains  a  narrative  of  the  Marion's  cruise;  a  report  and 
discussion  of  the  sounding  work  accomplished;  and  a  description 
and  discussion  of  the  bottom  samples  obtained  at  some  of  the  places 
where  wire  soundings  w^ere  made. 

DESCRIPTION  OF  VESSEL  AND  APPARATUS 

The  Marion  is  one  of  a  number  of  similar  vessels  which  the  Coast 
Guard  had  built  in  1925  for  offshore  patrol  duty.  She  is  125  feet 
long,  with  a  23%-foot  beam  andean  8i/^-foot  draft.  Her  normal  dis- 
placement is  about  220  tons.  Her  twin  screws,  each  driven  by  a 
G-cylinder  air-injection  Diesel  engine  of  150  horsepoAver,  could  gi^^e 
her  a  maximum  speed  of  about  10i/>  knots.  When  she  departed  for 
the  north  she  carried  a  total  of  9,000  gallons  of  fuel  oil,  of  wliich 
7,000  Avere  in  her  tanks  and  2,000  in  drums  on  deck.  With  this  amount 
of  oil,  her  cruising  radius  Avas  upAvard  of  G.OOO  miles  at  a  speed  of 
7%  knots.  Figure  4  sIioavs  the  Marion  as  slie  looked  just  prior  to  her 
departure  for  the  north. 

The  Marioii's  highest  compartment  Avas  the  bridge,  the  afterpart 
of  Avhich  Avas  partitioned  off  shortly  before  the  start  of  the  exi^edi- 
tion  to  form  a  radio  room.     Tlie  large  deckhouse  on  the  next  deck 


2  MAEION         EXPEDITION    TO    DAVIS    STEAIT    AND   BAFFIN    BAY 

below  the  brido:e  contained  the  wash  rooms  and  water-closets,  the 
upper  engine  room,  entries  to  berthing  and  messing  spaces,  and 
several  lockers  used  for  ordnance  equipment,  boatswain's  stores,  car- 
])enter  stores,  and  cleaning  gear. 

The  steel  deck  over  the  upper  engine  room  had  an  extension  built 
out  to  starboard  and  the  whole  served  as  the  platform  for  the  ocean- 
ographic  work.  The  main  oceanographic  platform  can  best  be  seen 
in  Figures  10  and  11.  The  latter  figure  shows  the  water-bottle  rack 
and  considerable  detail  about  the  large  winch.  In  addition  to  the 
large  winch  Avorking  some  10,000  feet  of  ^fo-inch  wire  rope  from  the 


PERSONNEL  ON   MARION  EXPEDITION.   1928 

Figure  3. — The  oflScers  and  crew  of  the  Coast  Guard  patrol  boat  Marion  just  prior  to 
their  departure  for  the  Arctic  in  July,  1928.  The  Marion  had  a  complement  of  two 
commissioned  officers,  two  warrant  officers,  and  23  enlisted  men.  Sitting  left  to 
right :  Boatswain  .1.  B.  Krestensen,  Lieut.  Commander  Edward  H.  Smith,  Lieut  N.  G. 
Ricketts,  and  Boatswain   (T)   A.  L.  Cunningham. 

overhanging  platform,  there  was  a  smaller  winch  farther  aft  using 
12,000  feet  of  #2-inch  wire  rope.  The  latter  was  employed  for  bot- 
tom sampling  and  for  taking  the  loAver  levels  at  the  oceanographic 
stations,  usually  at  the  same  time  that  the  big  winch  was  being 
operated. 

Below  the  spar  deck  there  was  but  one  continuous  deck  level.  It 
contained  from  forward  aft,  the  following  compartments :  Forehold, 
crew^'s  berthing  space,  three  staterooms  for  officers,  engine  room, 
galley,  pantry,  furnace  room,  officer's  mess  room  and  ship's  office, 
coal  bunker,  water  tank,  crew's  mess  room,  and  the  afterhold.    Below 


EXPEDITION    TO   DAVIS    STIJAIT    AND   BAFFIX    BAY  S 

this  level,  under  the  living  and  messing  spaces,  were  shallow  holds 
that  were  used  as  niaoazines  and  storerooms. 

A  number  of  extra  items  of  equipment  were  installed  on  the  Manon 
prior  to  her  departure  from  the  United  States.  The  principal  ones 
were  a  radiocompass,  a  short-wave  radio  set,  two  oceano<rrai)hic 
winches,  an  electric  salinometer.  a  fathometer,  several  extra  banks 
of  storage  batteries,  a  si)ccial  generator  driven  by  an  internal-com- 
bustion engine  for  running  the  oceanographic  winches,  and  another 
for  charging  the  numerous  banks  of  batteries  needed  for  the  radio 
and  the  fathometer  work.  All  the  ice  patrol's  deep-sea  thermom- 
eters, thermographs,  Greene-Bigelow  water  bottles,  water  sample 
bottles,  and  otlier  articles  of  scientific  apparatus  were  taken  on  board 
for  use.  One  of  the  items  of  special  equipment  was  the  bottom 
sampler.  There  was  amply  sufficient  apparatus  on  board  for  com- 
prehensive oceanographic  research,  including  the  occupation  of  a 
large  number  of  stations  at  which  serial  temperatures  and  salinities 
were  determined  for  the  purpose  of  working  out  the  dynamic  currents 
of  the  area  traversed. 

It  was  intended  to  make  the  vessel  self-sufficient  throughout  the 
expedition,  so  a  tremendous  load  of  stores  and  many  spare  parts 
were  carried.  Below  deck,  almost  all  available  spaces  were  filled 
with  coal  for  cooking  and  heating  and  with  fcod.  On  deck,  around 
the  rails  from  stem  to  stern  and  completely  filling  the  extreme  after 
deck  space,  were  lashed  no  less  than  78  drums  of  petroleum  products. 
The  principal  item  here  was  diesel  fuel  oil  for  the  main  engines,  but 
there  were  also  many  barrels  of  lubricating  oil,  kerosene,  and  gaso- 
line. A  spare  electric  winch  for  use  at  oceanographic  stations  and 
two  extra  dories  were  also  carried  on  deck. 

At  the  time  of  departure  from  Sydney,  Xova  Scotia,  the  Marion 
carried  sufficient  fuel  to  cruise  a  total  of  almost  7,000  miles,  and  this 
figure  represented  the  limits  northward  to  Avliich  the  ship  could 
range.  Later  on  in  Godhavn,  Greenland,  Ave  were  surprised  to  find 
a  plentiful  supply  of  Diesel  oil,  which  permitted  the  oceanographic 
program  to  be  greatly  extended.  In  order  to  conserve  fuel  the 
Marion  at  the  start  was  operated  with  only  one  engine  at  a  time, 
alternating  motors  at  the  end  of  each  4-hour  watch.  In  this  manner 
we  cruised  along  at  the  slow  rate  of  6  miles  per  hour.  After 
arrival  at  the  northern  terminus,  Godhavn,  and  learning  of  the 
available  oil  supply  there,  the  ship  was  cruised  with  both  motors  and 
maintained  a  higher  rate  of  speed,  averaging  almost  9  knots. 

PERSONNEL 

The  complement  of  the  Marion  during  her  regular  Coast  Guard 
duty  was  3  warrant  officers  and  18  enlisted  men.  On  account  of  the 
large  amount  of  work  of  a  special  nature  to  be  done  in  the  north,  just 
prior  to  the  start  of  the  MaHon  expedition,  the  personnel  was  in- 
creased to  the  following :  2  commissioned  officers,  2  warrant  officers, 
and  23  enlisted  men.  All  of  the  latter  were  easily  accommodated 
on  board  in  the  large  crew  spaces,  those  men  for  whom  no  bunks 


EXPEDITION"    TO    DAVIS    STRAIT    AND   BAFFIN"  BAY 

were  available  being  SAvimg  in  hammocks  in  the  crew's  mess  room. 
The  enlisted  men  were  distributed  among  the  f olloAving  ratings  : 

Chief  boatswain's  mate 1 

Chief  motor  machinist's  mates 2 

Boatswain's  mate,  first  class 1 

Quartermaster,  first  class 1 

Radiomen,  first  class 2 

Motor  machinist's   mates,   first  class 2 

Yeoman,  second  class 1 

Motor  machinist's   mates,   second  class 2 

Pharmacist's  mate,  second  class 1 

Seamen,  first  class 4 

Seamen,  second  class 6 


UNITED  STATES  COAST   GUARD  PATHOL  BOAT   :MA1U0X 

Figure  4. — The  Marion  departed  from  Boston,  Mass.,  for  Davis  Strait  and  Baffin  Bay 
on  July  11,  1928.  When  she  left  Sydney,  Nova  Scotia,  the  last  port  where  regular 
supplies  could  be  obtained,  she  carried  78  drums  of  fuel  oil  and  gasoline  on  deck  in 
addition  to  her  full  capacity  of  tanks  below.  She  was  equipped  with  spare  parts  for 
practically  every  piece  of  machinery  on  board. 

NARRATIA^  OF  THE  EXPEDITION 

After  leaving  New  London,  Conn.,  on  July  7,  1928,  the  Marion 
called  at  Vineyard  Haven,  Mass.,  and  Boston,  Mass.  Final  j^repara- 
tions  for  the  cruise  Avere  made  at  the  Boston  Navy  Yard  during  a 
spell  of  extremely  hot  weather.  At  6.30  p.  m.  July  11,  1928,  the 
Marion  departed  from  the  United  States,  heading  toward  Halifax, 
Nova  Scotia.  Immediate  relief  from  the  heat  Avas  had  upon  leaving 
Boston  Harbor.  On  the  foggy  run  eastAvard  across  the  Gulf  of 
Maine  all  oceanographic  equipment  Avas  tested  and  the  personnel  was 
given  practice  and  instruction  in  the  special  duties  connected  AA'ith 
the  expedition's  Avork. 

Halifax  Avas  reached  at  8.30  p.  m.  on  July  13,  1928.  Several  Brit- 
ish Admiralty  charts  and  a  few  last  items  of  equipment  AA^ere  pur- 
chased on  the  folloAA  ing  day.  A  number  of  persons  experienced  in 
the  Avaters  of  the  Canadian  Arctic  gave,  on  request,  valuable  advice 


i-egardiiio-  conditions  that  would  probably  be  met  by  the  Ma/hn  in 
the  waters  of  the  north. 

Halifax  Avas  left  on  the  evenin<r  of  July  14.  and  some  24  hours 
later  we  arrived  at  Sydney,  Xova  Scotia.  F()<>iry  weather  with 
little  intermission  prevailed  durin<i-  our  run  northeastward  alon«j:  the 
Xova  Scotian  coast.  On  the  IGtli  the  ship  was  fueled  and  loaded 
up  with  fresh  commissary  stores.  All  hands  sent  letters  home  and 
made  last  purchases  of  needed  articles,  for  it  was  realized  that  no 
other  truly  civilized  seaport  would  be  visited  for  at  least  some  weeks. 

Just  before  leavina'  Sydney  Harbor,  Captain  Falk.  of  the  Beofh/'e, 
was  interviewed  on  board  his  ship.  He  was  preparinir  to  depart  Avith 
her  on  a  far  northern  cruise  which  for  several  years  has  been  annu- 
ally carried  out  by  the  Canadian  (iovernment.  Captain  Falk's  advice 
was  extremely  valuable,  and  so  were  several  special  charts  of  north- 
ern harbors  that  he  generously  presented  to  the  Marlon.  His  cheer- 
ful description  of  the  Arctic  summer  removed  many  doubts  and  mis- 
givings, and  heightened  the  pleasant  anticipation  which  animated 
the  ship's  complement  Avhen  Sydney  Harbor  was  left  behind  on  the 
evening  of  July  16. 

Fog  enveloped  the  ship  almost  as  soon  as  it  got  outside,  and  it 
remained  thick  throughout  the  crossing  of  Cabot  Strait.  On  the 
afternoon  of  July  17,  after  the  run  north  across  the  Gulf  of  St.  Law- 
rence was  finished,  the  Marian  began  skirting  the  western  shore  of 
Xewfoundland,  the  first  land  to  be  sighted  being  the  high  rocky  bluff 
of  Cape  St.  George.  The  fog  which  had  surrounded  us  since  leaving 
S^^dney,  quickly  departed  and  the  weather  became  Avarm  and  fine. 
The  setting  sun  lit  up  ])rilliantly  the  colorful  slopes  of  Red  Island, 
as  the  Marion  passed  close  b}^  it  on  a  smooth  and  bright  blue  sea.  The 
next  day  was  clear  and  pleasant  at  first,  but  a  thickening  haze  grad- 
ually cut  off  our  vicAv  of  the  Xewfoundland  mountains  and  valleA^s. 
By  midafternoon  fog  had  again  shut  in  thick. 

Looking  back  upon  the  cruise,  one  of  the  most  uncomfortable  situ- 
ations was  the  night  of  Juh^  18,  as  we  chugged  heavily  into  the  nar- 
row Strait  of  Belle  Isle.  Running  before  a  fresh  southerly  wind  in 
the  dense  fog,  Ave  had  left  the  Avarm  Avater  of  the  gulf  to  enter 
abruptly  into  almost  Arctic  conditions.  The  thermograph,  Avhich 
registered  only  a  fcAV  degrees  above  the  freezing  point,  brought  home 
only  too  A'ividly  the  prospects  of  colliding  Avith  an  iceberg.  There 
was  little  solace  to  be  had  in  attempting  to  seek  shelter  along  the 
precipitous  rocky  shore  of  XeAvfoundland,  so  Ave  kept  on,  sounding 
frequently  Avith  the  fathometer  and  hoping  for  better  Aveather  con- 
ditions at  daylight. 

Throughout  the  night  the  Marion  cruised  northeastward  in  the 
Strait  of  Belle  Isle,  sighting  nothing  the  next  morning  because  of 
the  fog's  continuance.  Some  15  icebergs  Avere  knoAvn  from  reports 
received  by  radio  to  be  in  the  strait,  but  fortunately  none  were 
encountered.  Thanks  to  occasional  radio  bearings,  the^  Marion  Avas 
able  to  proceed  right  up  under  the  diaphone  of  the  soutliAvest  liirht- 
house,  and  then  halfAvay  around  Belle  Isle  itself,  despite  the  dense 
fog.  Xot  until  the  afternoon  of  the  19th  did  the  visibility  clear  up 
sufficiently  to  permit  the  rocky  heights  of  the  island  to  be  sighted. 

Our  arrival  at  the  Atlantic' end  of  the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle  marked 
the  inauguration  of  a  rigorous  program  of  oceanography  upon  Avhich 


6  ' '  MARION  ' '   EXPEDITION    TO   DAVIS   STRAIT   AND   BAFFIN    BAY 

all  of  US  Avere  now  to  be  busily  employed  for  the  ensuin<j:  ei^rht  weeks 
with  little  cessation.  All  hands  except  the  two  commissioned  officers 
were  green  to  the  station  work,  and  therefore  plenty  of  time  was 
devoted  to  patiently  instructing  the  crew  in  their  various  duties. 
Since  the  station  work  was  to  be  pushed  from  now  on,  day  and  night, 
as  the  main  task  of  the  expedition,  the  men  were  divided  into  three 
watches  with  a  team  on  each  watch  consisting,  as  a  rule,  of  three 
members — winchman,  recorder,  and  platform  man.  Good  station 
work  requires  practice,  experience,  and  cooperation  from  all,  as  the 
slightest  blimder  or  mistake  on  the  part  of  any  member  of  the  team 
may  mean  the  loss  of  a  valuable  instrument,  or  errors  creeping  into 
the  observations,  or,  most  common  of  all,  undue  delay.  A  false  move 
made  near  the  end  of  an  oceanographic  station  often  necessitates  the 
retakino:  of  the  entire  set  of  observations. 


BATTLE    llAKBUK.    LABKADUK 

Figure  5. — We  entered  Battle  Harbor,  Labrador,  on  the  evening  of  July  19.  192S.  This 
is  a  small  fishing  settlement  on  the  north  side  of  the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle.  Here  we 
saw  Eskimo  dogs  and  Arctic  mosses  and   flowers  for   the   first   time. 

Regular  half-hourly  fathometer  soundings  began  to  be  taken  for 
record  as  soon  as  the  vessel  had  passed  to  the  eastward  through  the 
Strait  of  Belle  Isle.  Many  sounding  values  had  been  taken  previously 
for  navigational  purposes  and  for  practice,  but  south  of  Belle  Isle 
the  charts  already  contained  many  plotted  soundings  and  did  not 
need  to  be  improved  by  additional  carefully  located  values  like  the 
blanker,  less  detailed,  charts  of  the  north. 

The  first  real  oceanographic  station  of  the  cruise  was  close  to  the 
northeast  end  of  Belle  Isle  (ice  patrol  station  No.  936;  see  Coast 
Guard  Bulletin  19,  pt.  2),  and  thence,  a  line  of  three  stations  was 
taken  to  a  point  just  south  of  Battle  Harbor,  Labrador.  These 
afforded  the  crew  good  practice  in  the  correct  procedure  to  follow^  in 
handling  the  sounding  weights,  Avires,  bottles,  and  messengers. 

The  Marion  moored  for  three  hours  at  Battle  Harbor,  Labrador, 
on  the  evening  of  July  19.  Our  water  tank  was  topped  off  with  fresh 
water  by  placing  the  Mwrion's  forefoot  lightly  against  the  harbor's 


EXPEDITIOX    TO    DAVIS    STEAIT    AND    BAFFIX    BAY  7 

bank  and  drawing  water  with  buckets  from  a  near-])y  stream.  Fresh 
water  for  scriibbin<r  clothes  was  also  put  into  four  open  barrels  on 
deck.  One  member  of  the  enuineer  force  had  to  be  left  in  the  Inter- 
national' Grenfell  Association  Hospital  at  Battle  Harbor,  as  he  w^as 
sulferino-  from  chnmic  rheumatism  that  had  been  <j:reatly  a<rgravated 
by  the  raw  and  dani))  climate  into  which  the  Maiion  had  suddenly 
come.  Throu<rh  the  aid  of  the  American  consulate  at  St.  Johns.  New- 
foundland, he  was  later  furnished  with  transportation  by  conimercial 
vessel  back  to  the  United  States. 

There  Avas  little  time  to  observe  shore  conditions  at  Battle  Harbor, 
but  the  quickest  of  inspections  sufficed  to  show  that  here  was  an  en- 
tirely different  world  from  that  left  behind  in  New  England  a  few 
days  previously.  In  the  strait  Avliere  the  stations  had  just  been  taken 
three  small  bergs  had  been  sighted,  and  stranded  near  Battle  Harbor 
were  two  more.  The  dark  rainy  weather  marred  their  whiteness, 
but  brought  out  strongly  their  tints  of  blue  and  green.  This  day's 
bergs  constituted  the  first  specimens  of  glacial  ice  ever  beheld  by  the 
majority  of  the  crew.  The  water  in  the  harbor  was  surprisingly 
transparent.  Despite  the  dullness  of  the  day,  details  of  the  rocky 
bottom  and  sides  of  the  little  cleft  of  a  harbor  could  be  observed  in 
many  places  as  the  Marion  nosed  about  slowly  between  the  two  roAvs 
of  small  Avharves. 

Ashore,  the  rounded  rocky  hills  were  covered  wherever  there  was 
an}^  soil  with  a  rank,  soggy  growth  of  grass,  moss,  and  floAvers. 
Many  of  the  latter  were  strange  to  our  southern  eyes.  All  our  re- 
maining doubts  about  being  on  the  edge  of  the  Arctic  Avere  quickly 
dispelled  by  the  sight  of  the  port's  tiny  houses  and  the  fish-drying 
stages,  about  Avhich  Avere  Avalking  the  fishermen  and  the  Eskimo  dogs 
of  the  little  toAvn.  At  8.50  p.  m.  the  Mariotrs  business  had  been 
completed  and  Ave  stood  out  to  sea  to  head  nortliAvard  into  the  fog  and 
the  rain. 

The  morning  of  July  20  brought  good  visibility.  A  fcAv  bergs  were 
sighted  off  the  coast  in  the  Labrador  current  and  over  20  Avere  seen 
grounded  along  the  rocky  shore.  A  nortliAvest  gale  piped  up  just 
l3efore  noon,  so  the  deeply  loaded  Marion  Avas  run  into  sheltered 
Avaters  and  anchored  off  Domino  Harbor,  Labrador.  Only  tAvo  per- 
sons Avere  found  at  this  place — a  father  and  son  from  XcAvfoundland 
Avho  Avere  spending  the  summer  there  catching  cod.  The  surround- 
ings Avere  uniuA^iting  and  bleak,  for  the  ground  Avas  rockier  and  the 
A^egetation  less  \dgorous  than  at  Battle  Harbor,  only  TO  miles  farther 
south. 

In  the  afternoon  the  Marion  Avas  SAvung  in  Domino  Rini  to  deter- 
mine the  deA^ations  of  the  radiocompass,  the  local  commercial  radio 
station  transmitting  AvheneA'er  test  bearings  Avere  required.  At  4.50 
p.  m..  as  it  Avas  still  oAcrcast  and  A^ery  A\'indy,  the  MaHon  Avas 
anchored  at  Spotted  Island  Harl)or.  This  toAvn  Avas  considerably 
more  populous  than  Domino  Harbor,  lying  across  the  run  from  it. 
There  Avas  a  hospital  of  the  International  (jrenfell  Association  at  the 
ncAv  village.  The  hospital  i)eople  and  the  natives  Avere  most  cordial 
throughout  the  ship's  -t5-hour  stay.  It  Avas  here  that  Ave  had  our 
first  taste  of  seal  meat,  the  consensus  of  opinion  being  that  it  Avas  A^ery 
good  if  properly  cooked. 


In  the  intervals  betAveen  boating  off  fresh  water  and  dumping  oil 
into  the  bnnkers  from  the  drums  on  deck,  much  information  was 
obtained  about  the  hard  life  of  the  people  who  live  in  Labrador 
throughout  the  year.  Some  of  the  natives  had  distinct  Eskimo  fea- 
tures, others  showed  traces  of  Indian  blood,  while  still  others  were 
apparently  pure  white.  All  talked  in  an  old-fashioned  English 
dialect. 

The  people  lived  in  tiny  houses  and  shacks  set  back  a  short  distance 
from  a  few  small  Avharves  that  were  built  mostly  of  poles.  In  sheds 
on  the  Avharves  the  summer's  catch  of  fish  was  salted  and  piled  like 
cordwood.  There  were  numerous  Eskimo  dogs  about,  groups  of 
which  from  time  to  time  engaged  in  howling  choruses.  The  weird 
howling  could  be  heard  out  at  the  ship's  anchorage  above  the  noises 
of  the  wind.  Some  of  the  better  houses  had  near  them  garden  patches 
from  20  to  30  feet  square.  These  gardens  were  always  fenced  off 
with  poles  brought  out  from  the  forests  of  the  interior  to  protect 
them  from  being  torn  up  by  the  dogs.  In  them  we  saw  nothing 
but  a  miserable  growth  of  cabbagelike  greens. 

By  2  p.  m.  on  Sunday,  Jnly  22,  the  gale  had  blown  itself  out,  per- 
mitting the  Marlon  to  get  under  way.  A  stop  was  made  just  seaward 
of  the  mottled  black  and  white  rocks  of  Spotted  Island  where  an 
oceanographic  station  was  occupied.  Until  the  25th  the  ship  was 
engaged  off  Labrador  taking  two  lines  of  oceanographic  stations 
located  more  or  less  at  right  angles  to  the  general  trend  of  the  coast. 
The  first  line  extended  seaward  120  miles  from  Spotted  Island,  while 
the  second  was  taken  from  a  point  120  miles  off  Bulldog  Island  to 
a  point  2  miles  off  the  same.  In  general,  fine  weather  prevailed 
throughout  this  time.  In  making  the  coast  about  Bulldog  Island 
we  were  thi'own  upon  our  own  resources,  as  very  few  aids  to  naviga- 
tion, like  buoys,  lighthouses,  and  beacons  are  maintained  north  of 
the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle.  The  best  aids  available  consisted  of  prom- 
inent landmarks  such  as  mountain  peaks,  small  islands,  and  reefs 
aAvash. 

We  Avere  somewhat  apprehensive  as  to  the  behavior  of  the  Mcurion 
in  "  laying  to  "  while  the  deep-sea  observations  were  being  made.  It 
is  quite  important  not  only  for  the  accuracy  of  the  observations  but 
also  for  the  reliable  operation  of  the  Avater  bottles  that  the  wire  to 
which  the  instruments  are  clamped  remain  as  nearly  A^ertical  as  pos- 
sible. When  it  is  bloAving  Avith  any  great  strength,  most  ships,  espe- 
cially if  high  sided,  Avith  a  deckhouse,  experience  considerable  drift 
to  leeAvard  and  also  forge  ahead.  On  the  United  States  Coast  Guard 
cutters  used  on  the  international  ice  patrol  service  this  drifting  off 
causes  such  a  bad  slant  to  the  sounding  Avire  that  the  station  Avork 
often  has  to  be  abandoned  until  the  wind  moderates.  Naturally  it 
Avas  very  pleasing  to  find  that  on  the  Marion  we  Avere  able  to  keep 
the  Avire  and  instruments  perpendicular  throughout  the  station  Avork 
under  all  sorts  of  Aveather  conditions.  A  kick  ahead,  first  on  one 
motor  and  then  on  the  other,  as  she  fell  off  on  either  side  of  the  eye 
of  the  Avind  did  the  trick,  even  in  a  strong  breeze  and  high  sea.  The 
fact  that  the  Marion  possessed  tAvin  scrcAvs  made  such  maneuvering 
possible,  and  this  handiness,  by  the  Avay,  was  only  one  of  the  fine 
qualities  to  be  displayed  by  the  little  craft  throughout  the  entire 
expedition. 


From  Bullcloo^  Island  the  course  led  northward  alon<r  the  shore 
toward  a  point  near  56°  north  latitude,  whence  a  575-niile  line  of 
stations  Avas  to  be  rim  to  the  northeastward  to  the  Avest  coast  of  Green- 
land in  latitude  63°  X.  About  200  ber<rs,  most  of  them  irrounded 
alonij:  the  Labrador  coast,  were  seen  while  on  the  run  toward  the 
fifty-sixth  i)arallel.  In  the  Labrador  current  ofl'sliore  a  few  large 
ber<i:s  were  di'iftin<2;  southward. 

The  surface  water  ranged  from  -18°  to  50°  F.  throughout  the  mid- 
dle part  of  the  run  between  Labrador  and  GreenlancL  There  was  no 
ice  and  no  cold  surface  water  in  Davis  Strait  from  80  miles  off 
Labrador  to  85  miles  off  Litcldenfels,  Greenland.  The  Marion  was 
engaged  on  the  above-mentioned  long  line  of  stations  from  the  eve- 
ning of  July  2o  until  daylight  on  July  31,  1928. 

Due  to  the  comjiaratively  warm  water,  the  air  temperatures  were 
rather  high  over  Davis  Strait,  ranging  from  42°  to  51°  F.  Cloudy 
and  overcast  weather  prevailed  most  of  the  time,  but  it  was  fre- 
quently possible  to  get  observations  of  the  sun  through  the  thinner 
parts  of  the  cloud  blanket.  The  w^nds  were  in  general  very  light, 
and  there  were  no  storms  or  general  rains,  but  the  ocean  swell  out  in 
the  middle  of  Davis  Strait  was  always  present. 

All  hands  became  thoroughly  familiar  with  their  special  duties 
in  connection  with  the  scientific  program;  nevertheless,  the  first 
really  long  line  of  stations  was  not  taken  without  mishaps.  At 
11.30  p.  m.  on  July  27,  wdiile  over  the  deepest  part  of  the  basin 
between  Labrador  and  Greenland,  we  lowered  out  three  Greene- 
Bigelow  water  bottles  with  the  small  winch  to  a  depth  of  3,000 
meters,  while  the  large  winch  with  the  heavier  wire  was  being  used 
to  take  observations  down  to  1,200  meters  at  the  same  time.  When 
we  started  to  heave  in  on  the  small  high-speed  winch  about  10  meters 
of  the  wire  was  reeled  and  then  without  warning  the  shaft  coupling 
connecting  the  drum  to  the  motor  snapped.  The  3,000  meters  of 
wire  were  "  stopped  off'  ''  at  the  rail  and  a  cut  was  made  back  on 
the  drum.  The  new  inboard  end  of  the  /2-inch  wire  was  carried  to 
the  large  winch,  wdiich  had  meanwhile  finished  taking  the  portion 
of  the  station  down  to  1,200  meters.  It  reeled  in  about  600  meters 
when  the  side  flange  on  the  big  drum  burst  outwards,  jamming  the 
drum  and  the  wire  against  the  housing  of  the  apparatus. 

Here  was  a  hne  mess !  Dark ;  rainy ;  rough ;  all  of  the  hoists 
broken  down  one  way  or  another,  and  about  two  miles  of  Avire  with 
three  valuable  instruments  dangling  over  the  side.  It  looked  as  if 
the  expedition  Avas  about  over,  nevertheless,  all  hands  Avere  turned 
out  and  set  to  work.  The  first  tiling  Ave  did  was  to  "  stop  off  "  the 
small  /o-inch  Avire  a  second  time.  After  much  backing  and  filling 
Avith  the  engines,  Ave  got  it  to  the  ship's  Avindlass,  Avhen  for  nearly 
three  hours  Ave  lieaA'ed  m  Avire,  finally  getting  it  all  on  board  and 
reeled  doAvn  on  a  portable  AA'ooden  drum.  The  three  Greene-Bige- 
loAv  Avater  bottles  Avere  recovered  Avith  their  deep-sea  thermometers 
intact. 

In  the  meantime  another  group  of  the  crcAV  had  been  Avorking 

on  the  main  deck  dismantling  the  spare  ice  patrol  Avinch  in  order 

to  take  the  drum  from  it  to  replace  the  broken  one.     The  broken 

drum   Avas   reinoA^ed   after   much   trouble,   not   only   because   it   was 

68165—32 2 


10 

tightly  jammed  by  the  spreading  of  the  wire,  but  also  because 
the  drum,  being  full,  was  most  heavy  and  cumbersome  with  the 
vessel  rolling  as  it  was  on  the  swell.  Neither  was  it  a  small  task 
to  hoist  the  spare  drum  with  its  heavy  shafting  from  the  main  deck 
up  to  the  top  of  the  deck  house,  considering  the  gear  with  which  we 
had  to  work.  It  was  done,  however,  and  by  9  a.  m.  the  next  day, 
after  working  the  whole  night,  the  new  drum  was  in  place  and  the 
wire  being  reeled  on  it.     At  noon  we  took  our  next  station. 

In  the  cold  current  close  to  the  Greenland  coast  a  few  bergs  were 
located.  A  number  of  birds  were  on  the  bergs  and  a  few  with 
strangely  shaped  tails  were  noted  soaring  about  under  the  gray 
clouds  overhead.  The  mountains  of  Greenland  were  sighted  at 
2.20  a.  m.  on  July  31.  Throughout  the  day,  glimpses  of  the  high 
ruoffred   coast   were   had    as   the    vessel    cruised   northward   toward 


GREENLAND  CODFISH 

Figure  6. — While  waiting  for  the  fog  to  lift  off  the  entrance  to  Godthaab  Fiord,  Green- 
land, on  July  31,  1928,  we  threw  over  our  lines  and  immediately  began  to  pull  in  large 
codfish  as  fast  as  we  could  bait. 

Godthaab  from  8  to  18  miles  offshore.  It  was  overcast  over  the 
sea,  but  clear  over  the  land  and  in  places  the  sun  lit  up  brilliantly 
the  streams  and  the  trickling  waters  proceeding  from  snow  patches. 
Our  first  landfall  on  the  Greenland  west  coast  was  truly  a  grand 
and  inspiring  sight.  The  piloting  along  the  sunken  mountainous 
shore  was  very  difficult  because  of  the  jutting  headlands,  the  hun- 
dreds of  bare  rock  islands,  and  the  outlying  reefs  which  lay  pep- 
pered about.  Aids  to  navigation,  such  as  we  mean  by  the  term,  did 
not  exist,  of  course,  and,  added  to  these  conditions,  the  best  chart  with 
which  we  could  be  supplied  before  we  left  was  only  a  general  one 
of  the  entire  west  coast.  Fog  shut  in  about  us  just  before  the  entrance 
to  Godthaab  was  reached,  so  Ave  anchored  off  Eaven  Island.  While 
waiting  for  the  fog  to  lift  the  crew  caught  several  dozen  large  cod- 
fish like  those  shown  in  Figure  6. 


MAEIOX 


EXPEDITION    TO    DAVIS    STRAIT    AND   BAFFIN    BAY 


11 


At  4.30  p.  m.  the  .ship  <2:(>t  under  way  and  began  to  move  in  slowly 
aniono-  the  numerous  islets  tliat  bhx-k  the  southern  entrance  to  Godt- 
haab  Fiord.  On  our  general  chart  these  oltlying  rocks  and  skerries 
were  clustered  like  so  many  flyspecks.  Over  the  land  the  air  was 
very  clear  and  somew^hat  w^armer  than  over  the  cold  w^ater  just  off 
the  coast.  The  only  snow  that  could  be  seen  lay  in  sheltered  niches 
and  clefts  on  the  higlier  mountains.  No  sign  was  visible  of  the  great 
Greenland  ice  cap.  because  its  western  edge  lies  separated  from  Godt- 
haab  by  over  50  miles  of  rough  and  mountainous  country. 

AVe  were  surprised  to  see  so  many  evidences  of  plant  life  upon  tlie 
near-by  rockv  shore.  Brownish-green  vegetation  extended  in  most 
places  very  close  to  the  water's  edge,  showing  that  the  islets  can  not 
be  exposed  to  as  much  heavy  surf  as  might  be  expected  from  their 
location  near  the  open  sea.     Many  soundings  were  taken  with  the 


GODTHAAB,  GREENLAND 

Figure  7. — As  we  approached  the  village  of  Godthaab,  the  Marion  fired  a  national  salute 
of  21  guns.  This  was  the  first  honor  of  the  kind  from  an  American  man-of-war,  in 
many  years,  and  the  first  ever  rendered  hy  a  United  States  Coast  Guard  vessel  in 
Greenland. 

fathometer  in  the  approach  to  Godthaab,  while  the  ship  was  being 
carefully  conned  in  with  a  good  lookout  for  submerged  rock  ledges 
kept  from  aloft. 

At  6.30  p.  m.  the  Marlon  stopped  off  the  town  of  Godthaab,  Green- 
land, and  fired  a  national  salute  of  21  guns.  The  town  was  amazingly 
different  from  the  summer  fishing  villages  seen  a  few  days  before  in 
Labrador.  Even  from  the  harbor  it  w^as  seen  to  be  much  neater 
and  more  prosperous  looking.  Here  the  majority  of  the  buildings 
were  freshly  painted  in  red  and  white. 

Several  hundred  natives  in  brightly  trimmed  costumes  watched 
the  Marion  from  points  of  vantage  on  the  low  hills  about  the  town. 
Minor  Danish  officials  were  brought  alongside  in  a  pulling  boat  from 
which  they  came  on  board  after  they  had  been  satisfied  that  health 
conditions  on  board  w^ere  good.  One  of  them  offered  to  conduct  the 
ship  to  a  secure  berth.     He  explained,  Avhile  piloting  the  ship  around 


12 

to  the  landlocked  anchorage  behind  the  town,  that  the  higher  local 
officials,  knowing  through  radiograms  sent  them  of  the  probable 
time  of  arrival  of  the  Marion,  had  gone  out  in  a  motor  boat  to  meet 
the  expedition  off  the  north  entrance  to  the  fiord.  They  had  missed 
sighting  our  ship  due  to  her  coming  in  among  the  rocky  islets  scat- 
tered along  the  little  used  southern  approach  to  the  town.  The 
official  Avelcoming  boat  returned  to  Godthaab  a  short  time  after  the 
Marion  was  secured,  and  the  commanding  officer  duly  exchanged 
official  visits  with  the  local  Danish  authorities. 

At  8  p.  m.  the  welcome  word  was  received  on  board  that  liberty 
could  be  granted.  Those  members  of  the  crew  not  having  watches 
or  other  duties  aboard  went  ashore  immediately  and  were  very  hos- 
pitably treated  by  the  Greenlanders,  a  dance  being  staged  for  them 
as  was  the  case  at  almost  every  Arctic  village  visited. 

The  CA^ening  in  the  anchorage  was  calm  and  beautiful.  Due  to  the 
high  latitude,  it  did  not  get  quite  dark  all  night.  Bands  of  the  vapor 
which  rose  from  the  arms  of  the  fiord  and  from  damp  spots  ashore, 
lay  in  places  across  the  landscape.  A  crescent  moon  and  a  brilliant 
planet  moved  along  near  the  tops  of  the  neighboring  mountains. 
The  anchor  watch  idled  away  the  time  in  the  strange  long  twilight 
by  catching  the  small-sized  codfish  that  abounded  in  the  fiord.  Birds 
that  seemed  to  be  species  of  wild  ducks  could  be  heard  quacking  and 
splashing  along  the  shore. 

The  warm  sunshine  of  August  1,  1928,  quickly  dissipated  the  mists, 
causing  the  air  temperature  to  rise  from  45°  F.  to  57°  F.  between  4 
a.  m.  and  2  p.  m.  In  the  morning  all  those  who  had  been  unable  to 
get  ashore  the  previous  evening  were  given  an  opportunity  to  visit 
the  town.  From  the  inner  anchorage  to  the  village  was  about  15 
minutes'  walk  across  low  rocky  hills  and  grassy  meadows  which  were 
marshy  in  places.  The  warm  sun  brought  out  sweet  aromatic  scents 
from  the  vegetation,  and  the  only  thing  that  detracted  from  the  per- 
fection of  the  walk  and  day  were  the  bothersome  gnats  that  fre- 
quently had  to  be  brushed  aside.  As  Godthaab  was  approached  it 
was  noted  in  several  places  that  men  were  busy  painting  already 
quite  well-painted  houses  and  buildings.  Numbers  of  women  and 
children  were  going  to  and  fro  in  the  paths  and  streets  in  light  fur 
clothing.  The  most  striking  and  gorgeous  pieces  of  apparel  were 
the  high  skin  boots  Avhich  the  women  wore.  As  a  large  proportion 
of  the  men  were  off  fishing,  the  women  and  children  greatly  pre- 
dominated in  the  town.  One  of  the  many  photographs  taken  during 
the  morning  is  reproduced  here  as  Figure  8. 

The  Government  officials  at  Godthaab  advised  us  in  good  though 
slightly  halting  English  that  their  town  was  not  only  the  capital  of 
the  Godthaab  district  but  also  of  the  whole  of  South  Greenland. 
From  them  we  learned  much  concerning  the  nature  of  local  life  and 
about  the  history  of  the  place.  There  is  not  room  to  go  into  details 
here.  It  is  sufficient  to  say  that  fishing  is  the  principal  industry  and 
that  the  town  boasts  a  church,  a  hospital,  several  Government  houses 
for  officials,  storehouses,  schools — including  a  normal  school  for 
training  native  teachers  from  all  parts  of  Greenland — a  radio  station, 
a  fox  farm,  and  a  large  statue  of  the  famous  eighteenth  century 
missionary  to  the  Greenlanders,  Hans  Egede. 

The  grass  was  rank  and  tall,  especially  in  the  vicinity  of  the  houses, 
but  we  saw  no  gardens.    There  must  have  been  at  least  one,  however, 


MARION 


EXPEDITION    TO    DAVIS    STRAIT    AND    BAFFIN    BA\' 


13 


for  the  colonial  a<ient  of  the  district  i)resente(l  the  officers  of  the 
Maiion  with  a  paper  ba^-  full  of  fine  lar<ie  radishes  that  he  had 
I'aised.  There  were  no  (h)<»s  ;d)()Ut  the  town  because  the  fiords  do  not 
freeze  up  solidly  in  winter,  and  tlie  rocky  hills  bordering  the  fiords 
are  not  <iood  for  sled<i:e  travel.  Due  to  the  absence  of  the  fierce 
Eskimo  do<rs,  it  is  possible  to  keep  <roats  and  ducks  at  Godthaab,  and 
a  number  of  these  creatures  were  seen  wandering  about  the  town. 

Besides  some  local  commerce  with  near-by  villages  by  means  of 
coasting  craft,  a  number  of  fine  Danish  Government  steamers  make 
calls  at  Godthaab  each  year.  The  latter  vessels  carry  official  passen- 
gers and  freight  to  and  frcmi  Copenhagen,  serving,  we  were  told,  all 
of  the  principal  Greenland  ports. 

Our  first  stop  in  Greenland  brought  home  to  us  the  fact  that  the 
land  is  a  closed  country,  open  only  to  certain  Danish  officials  and  to 


THE    WATER    FRONT    OF    (iODTlIAAI5 

Figure  8. — The  principal  industry  of  this  Danish  colonial  viUage  is  fishing.  The  build- 
ing in  front  of  which  six  people  are  standing  is  the  home  and  office  of  the  local  colo- 
nial agent.  Godthaab,  being  the  capital  of  South  Greenland,  has  also  a  number  of 
other  Government  houses,  but  they  are  located  farther  back  from  the  sea. 

scientists  Avho  are  vouched  for  by  their  own  governments  and  ap- 
proved of  by  the  Danes.  The  natives  live  like  wards  of  the  Govern- 
ment on  an  enormous  naturalH^  isolated  reservation.  Our  pleasant 
experiences  at  Godthaab,  as  Avell  as  at  other  places  in  Greenland, 
made  us  regret  that  the  country  is  not  open  to  at  least  the  more 
adventurous  and  hardier  class  of  tourists.  Each  year  a  certain  num- 
ber of  such  people  could  undoubtedly  be  induced  to  visit  and  examine 
the  more  accessible  villages,  ice  fiords,  mountains,  and  other  wonders 
of  the  historic  land  that  was  first  colonized  from  the  north  of  Europe 
five  centuries  before  Columbus  discovered  the  Xew  World. 

All  liberty  was  up  at  noon.  Right  after  dinner  the  Marion  shifted 
anchorage  to  where  a  small  stream  from  near-by  mountains  rushed 
down  into  the  fiord.  The  afternoon  was  spent  watering  ship  and 
dumping  into  the  fuel  tanks  the  last  of  the  deck  load  of  barreled 


14 

Diesel  oil.    While  this  work  was  going  on  the  photograph  shown  in 
Figure  9  was  obtained. 

In  going  over  the  warm,  rocky  hills  to  get  the  above-mentioned 
view,  two  varieties  of  berries  and  many  low  bushes  and  plants  were 
seen.  This  surprised  the  Avriter  greatly,  for  having  read  very  little 
about  the  true  nature  of  the  summer  in  Greenland  he  had  imagined 
it  a  place  of  almost  continual  ice  and  snow.  Those  persons  unable 
to  go  there  but  who  nevertheless  would  like  to  get  detailed  and 
authentic  information  about  any  aspect  of  Greenland  should  read 
The  Discover}^  of  Greenland  and  the  Exploration  and  Nature  of  the 
Country,  Coi^enhagen  and  London,  1928,  published  by  the  Commis- 
sion for  the  Direction  of  the  Geological  and  Geographical  Investiga- 
tions in  Greenland.  This  book  and  its  companion  volumes  are  pro- 
fusely illustrated  bulletins  published  in  English  by  the  Danish  Gov- 


'"^^m^ 


SOUTH  GREENLAND  TERRAIN 

Figure  9. — The  rocky  land  devoid  of  trees  supports  in  favored  places  during  summer 
a  brief  but  rich  vegetation.  The  coastal  waters  are  characterized  by  irregular  sounds 
and  bays.  It  v?as  from  such  broolts  as  the  ones  shown  here  that  we  replenished  our 
supply  of  drinking  water  from  time  to  time. 

eminent.  They  contain  an  enormous  mass  of  information  about 
Greenland  that  has  been  compiled  by  scientific  authorities  wlio  are 
prominent  in  their  several  lines. 

At  5  p.  m.,  watering  ship  was  finished  and  the  Marlon  got  under 
way  again.  She  stopped  off  the  town  to  pick  up  a  member  of  the 
engineer  force  who,  thanks  to  the  courtesy  of  the  local  officials,  had 
been  working  in  the  Government  machine  shop  at  Godthaab  repairing 
our  broken  winch  drum  with  the  assistance  of  a  native  mechanic. 
These  two  men  could  converse  only  by  means  of  signs,  but  they  had 
succeeded  in  effecting  the  repairs  necessary  to  put  the  hoist  in  first- 
class  condition  again. 

Meanwhile,  on  board  the  Marion^  by  dint  of  lifting  with  tackles 
and  crowbars,  we  had  succeeded  in  getting  the  2-ton  spare  winch 
from  the  main  deck  up  to  the  top  of  the  deck  house.  There  it  was 
bolted  down  in  the  place  from  which  the  small  high-speed  winch 


15 

with  tlie  broken  shaft  had  been  removed.  The  neAV  lioist,  althouirh 
not  so  fast  as  the  one  that  had  been  designed  for  the  job,  Avorked  well 
for  the  remainder  of  the  cruise.  It  took  Avith  the  smaller  Avire  all 
the  deeper  observations  and  coHected  over  50  samples  of  the  ooze 
from  the  bottom  of  the  Labrador-Greenhmd  Basin. 

At  r).45  p.  m.  Godthaab  Avas  left  behind.  The  Marion  stood  out 
the  north  entrance  under  the  pilotage  of  Xis  Lynge,  a  native  Green- 
lander  Avho  had  been  sent  to  school  in  Denmark  to  study  naAdgation 
and  piloting.  AVe  learned  that  many  of  the  brighter  natiA^es  are 
sent  to  Denmark  Avlien  young  to  learn  trades  and  arts  Avhich  Avill  be 
useful  to  them  and  their  countrymen  upon  their  return  home. 


THE  "  MARION  •'  STOrrED  FOR  OBSERA'ATIONS 

Figure  10. — From  the  starboard  side  of  the  main  deck  house  a  platform  was  constructed 
which  overhung  the  side.  The  wire  on  which  tlie  instruments  were  lowered  into  the 
sea  ran  from  an  electric  winch  on  the  deck  house  and  through  a  sheave  at  the  head 
of  a  small  pair  of  sheer  legs.  A  Greene-Bigelow  water  bottle  is  here  being  hoisted' 
up   to  the  working  platform. 

At  6.50  p.  m.  on  August  1,  .1928,  the  pilot  Avas  dropped  into  his 
small  motor  boat,  and  the  Marion  stood  out  past  the  Kok  Island 
beacon  to  begin  a  line  of  oceanographic  stations  extending  offshore 
for  170  miles.  Early  on  August  3  the  offshore  roAv  of  stations  was 
completed  and  a  northerly  course  was  set  up  the  center  of  Davis 
Strait.  After  running  north  for  150  miles,  a  neAv  row  of  stations  was 
started  in  toAvard  the  Greenland  coast  in  latitude  65°  20'  X.  On  the 
morning  of  August  5,  this  other  roAV  of  stations  were  finished. 

The  AA^eather  since  leaA'ing  Godthaab  had  been  fine  and  the  sea 
almost  smooth,  except  for  a  confused  ground  swell.  We  sighted  onlj'- 
one  or  tAvo  icebergs  and  no  pack  ice.  When  near  the  Greenland  coast, 
however,  the  weather  became  fogg}"  and  misty.  Just  before  the  last 
station  was  taken,  breakers  about  a  small  rocky  islet  Avere  sighted 


16 

less  than  1  mile  away.  From  this  last  station,  some  10  miles  south- 
west of  Cape  Burnil,  the  Marlon  headed  northwest  and  then  north 
across  Great  Hellefiske  Bank,  bound  for  the  region  about  Disko  Bay. 
The  weather  iirew  worse  as  the  5th  progressed.  The  ship  was 
noted  to  be  making  ver}^  little  progress  into  the  wind,  and  so  she 
was  anchored  at  4.40  p.  m.  in  24  fathoms  of  water,  just  a  few  miles 
jiorth  of  the  Arctic  Circle  in  66^  39'  N.,  54°  20'  W.  Fishing  with 
handlines  Avas  tried  here  but  without  success.  A  moderate  gale  from 
the  north  blew  throughout  the  night. 


OCEANOGRAl'IIIC   OBSERVATIONS 

FiGiKE  11. — This  gives  a  general  idea  of  a  part  of  the  upper  deck  arrangement  on  the 
Marion.  The  man  in  the  right  foreground  is  operating  the  winch  which  contains  about 
a  mile  of  stranded  steel  wire.  The  water  bottles,  on  the  rack  to  the  left,  are  clamped 
at  successive  intervals  to  the  wire  as  it  is  lowered  away.  The  bottles  contain  the 
deep-sea  thermometers  that  record  the  temperature  and  also  a  chamber  which  holds 
about  a  quart  of  sea  water  taken  from  the  depth  to  which  the  bottle  is  lowered. 


At  11a.  m.  on  August  G  the  Mctrion  got  under  way  and  proceeded 
northward.  The  wind  moderated  rapidly  during  the  afternoon, 
which  fact  permitted  the  ship  to  make  good  progress  along  her 
course.  Thousands  of  gulls  and  ducks  were  seen  from  time  to  time. 
An  eider  duck  that  w^as  shot  from  the  bridge  on  this  day  was  pre- 
pared and  eaten  for  supper  by  the  officers  with  much  relish. 

By  4  a.  m.  on  the  7th  the  Marion  had  run  off  the  northern  end  of 
Great  Hellefiske  Bank  and  was  over  deep  water.  Several  large  bergs 
were  sighted  at  this  time,  but  no  more  were  seen  along  a  40-mile 
line  of  stations  that  was  taken  to  the  eastward  to  a  position  10  miles 
south  of  the  Western  Islands  in  the  southern  entrance  to  Disko  Bay 
The  weather  was  foo^fry  most  of  the  7th  from  9  a.  m 


on,  and  once 


EXPEDITION    TO    DAVIS    STRAIT    AND    BAFFIN    BAY 


17 


more  the  first  warnino-  that  tlie 
Avas  had  thr()U<>h  si<ihtinL^  islaiul 
close  aboard. 


diij)  was  near  the  Greenland  coast 
i  and  breakers  in  the  foir  and  mist 


READY  TO   LOWER   AWAY 

Figure  12. — The  water  bottle  has  been  clamped  to  the  wire  and  has 
a  messenger  attached  to  its  lower  end.  This  messenger  will  be 
free  to  run  down  the  wire  as  soon  as  a  similar  messenger  from 
the  bottle  to  be  placed  higher  on  the  wire  runs  down  to  strike  the 
top  of  the  bottle  shown  here.  In  this  manner  the  bottles  are 
successively  tripped  after  an  entire  string  of  them  is  lowered  to 
the  desired  depth  for  observations. 

The  afternoon  was  spent  running  northward  from  the  inshore  sta- 
tion of  the  above-mentioned  line.  As  the  ship  passed  the  Western 
Islands  and  the  Whalefish  Islands  occasional  breaks  in  the  fog  per- 


18 

mitted  the  position  to  be  fixed  by  means  of  bearings  of  the  islets  that 
were  taken  from  time  to  time.  At  7.48  p.  m.  the  ship  ran  out  into 
a  clear  space  and  we  could  see  the  towering  heights  of  Disko  Island 
boldly  standing  up  in  the  sunlight  some  8  miles  ahead.  So  deceptive 
was  its  appearance  over  the  glassy  Avaters  of  the  berg-studded  bay 
that  the  lookout  forward  thought  it  was  very  close  when  he  first 
sighted  it  through  the  thinning  fog  bank  and  excitedly  yelled  out  to 
stop  the  ship  as  land  was  right  ahead. 

Two  stations  were  taken  while  approaching  Godhavn,  on  Disko 
Island,  from  the  southward,  the  last  one  being  located  about  4  miles 
off  the  port.  The  town,  which  is  the  capital  of  its  local  district  and 
also  of  North  Greenland,  is  perched  on  a  rock  bench  at  the  edge  of 
the  sea.  Immediately  behind  it  rise  great  red  mountains  that  are 
much  cut  up  by  ravines.     There  were  ice  domes  on  the  highest  parts 


I 


J 


^*Mi  .^.^ 


GODHAVN,    GliEENLAXD 

Figure  13. — The  Marion,  on  arriving  at  Godhavn,  fired  a  national  salute.  This  settle- 
ment is  the  capital  of  North  Greenland  and  it  is,  like  Godthaab,  the  residing  place  of 
a  number  of  Danish  officials.  A  Danish  whale  catcher  can  be  discerned  to  the  left 
of  the  flagstaff,  moored  alongside  a  4-mastfd  sailing  vessel. 

of  these  mountains,  but  nearer  sea  level  there  was  everywdiere  a  faint 
tinge  of  green,  caused  by  the  vegetation  which  reached  apparently 
almost  up  to  the  areas  of  perpetual  snow. 

About  100  bergs,  some  very  large  and  some  with  much  dirt  from 
the  land  on  them,  were  drifting  off  Godhavn  in  the  mouth  of  Disko 
Bay.  Though  it  was  9  p.  m.,  the  sun  w^^s  still  over  5°  high  and 
w^ould  be  up  nearly  two  hours  longer.  The  sun's  declination  was 
much  less  than  it  had  been  a  month  and  a  half  earlier,  but,  due  to 
the  comparatively  high  latitude  of  Disko  Island,  there  was  still  day- 
light 24  hours  per  day.  In  response  to  a  request  by  radio  for  per- 
mission to  enter  port,  the  Danish  officials  replied  that  the  Marion  was 
welcome  to  Godhavn,  and  gave  helpful  advice  concerning  how  the 
harbor  entrance  should  be  approached  from  the  south. 

Soon  a  motor  boat  was  seen  standing  out  from  the  town.  It  came 
alongside  the  ship  and  a  welcoming  delegation  consisting  of  a  pilot, 


the  scientist  at  the  head  of  the  Danisli  Arctic  station  at  Godhavn, 
and  the.  local  colonial  agents,  climbed  on  hoard.  By  11  p.  m.,  on 
August  7,  the  Marion  had  run  in  through  tlie  narrow  entrance  of 
lichen-covered  rocks  and  anchored  in  the  fine  harbor,  near  two  Gov- 
ernment whaling  vessels. 

Because  of  the  persistence  of  daylight,  liberty  was  granted  at  once 
to  look  over  the  town.  As  at  Godthaab,  the  natives  were  for  the  most 
part  dressed  in  neat  sealskin  garments  decorated  with  brightly  dyed 
strijDs  of  sealskin  from  which  the  hair  had  been  removed.  They  were 
most  interesting  to  watch,  and  apparently  the}^  found  the  sailors 
from  the  Marion  equally  interesting,  for  a  crowd  of  them  surrounded 
each  little  group  of  bluejackets  that  landed  and  followed  the  latter 
about  wherever  the}^  went  while  ashore. 

We  were  told  that  some  300  natives  and  27  Danes  now  live  at 
Godhavn  the  vear  round.     At  the  time  of  the  MaHoii)s  visit  the 


GODHAVN,  GREENLAND 

Figure  14. — Danish  flags  fly  near  the  weU-kept  and  red-painted  Government  houses.  A 
stone  and  sod  hut  of  a  native  Greenlander  lends  local  color  to  this  view  across  the 
inner  portion  of  the  harbor. 

European  population  was  augmented  by  the  officers  and  crews  of 
the  tAvo  whaling  vessels,  but  these  people  were  to  leave  for  Denmark 
late  in  the  fall  as  soon  as  the  ^weather  should  become  too  severe  for 
further  whale  catching.  There  were  man}-  Eskimo  dogs  at  Godhavn, 
for  here  the  winters  are  cold  enough  for  solid  sea  ice  to  form  in  the 
bay.  This  makes  sledging  with  dog  teams  much  more  practicable 
than  in  South  Greenland,  where  the  winters  are  milder  and  good  ice 
for  traveling  can  not  be  depended  upon.  Shortly  before  midnight 
the  natives  gave  a  dance  for  the  crew  in  the  cooper  shop,  while  the 
officers  were  entertained  by  the  colonial  agents  and  other  Government 
officials  in  their  homes. 

The  morning  of  August  8  was  very  pleasant,  with  the  air  temper- 
ature around  50°  F.  The  commanding  officer  exchanged  official  calls 
with  the  Danish  officials,  and  the  latter  kindly  agreed  to  furnish  the 
ship  with  fresh  water  and  with  1,400  gallons  of  good  Diesel  oil.     The 


20        ' '  MAPaOi:^     '  EXPEDITION    TO   DAVIS   STRAIT   AND   BAFFIN    BAY 

latter  item  Avas  an  unexpected  and  most  welcome  accommodation, 
which  made  it  certain  that  the  Marion  could  visit  the  iceberg  pro- 
ducing glaciers  at  the  eastern  side  of  the  bay  and  also  complete  her 
projected  oceanographic  program  at  sea  at  a  good  speed  and  Avithout 
danger  of  fuel  shortage. 

At  1  p.  m.  the  Mamon  got  underway  for  Jacobshavn.  firing  a 
21-gun  salute  before  leaving  the  harbor.  The  scientist,  Mr.  M.  P. 
Porsild,  director  of  the  Danish  Arctic  Station  at  Godhavn,  accom- 
panied the  ship  during  her  cruise  around  Disko  Bay.  He  was  a 
mine  of  local  information  and  his  patient  replies  to  innumerable 
questions,  as  well  as  his  tales  about  the  life  of  Government  agents, 


SOUTH  SHORE  OF  DISKO  ISLAND 

Figure  I.j.— Along  this  coast,  from  left  to  right  in  the  picture,  there  is  a  continual  pro- 
cession of  icebergs  being  carried  westward  into  Davis  Strait.  Many  of  the  hergs 
which  pass  this  wireless  station  eventually  find  their  way  to  the  North  Atlantic  steam- 
ship tracks. 

visiting  scientists,  and  natives,  were  listened  to  Avith  great  attention. 
Through  his  kindness  our  almost  complete  ignorance  of  the  country 
AA'as  gradually  dispelled  and  we  began  to  appreciate  the  true  character 
of  the  land  Ave  Avere  so  privileged  to  A^isit. 

By  11  p.  m.  the  Marion  had  finished  taking  a  roAV  of  stations  east- 
Avard  for  50  miles  to  the  berg-choked  entrance  of  the  Jacobshavn 
ice  fiord.  Over  500  large  bergs  from  this  fiord  Avere  sighted  during 
the  run  across  Disko  Bay.  The  tallest  one  that  Avas  passed  close  to 
Avas  found  by  means  of  sextant  angles  to  be  265  feet  high. 

The  mountainous  land  behind  Jacobshavn  could  be  seen  from 
the  moment  Godhavn  Avas  left.     Over  these  mountains  of  the  main- 


land  wo  could  see  the  brilliant  white  glare  of  ice  blink  caused  by 
reflection  from  the  <ii'eat  dome  of  the  inland  ice.  The  ice  itself 
was  not  visible  because  of  its  distance  and  of  the  intervenin<r  moun- 
tains, but  the  evidence  of  its  presence  was  plainly  visible  in  the  sky. 
At  11.20  p.  m.  on  Au<^ust  8,  the  Mnnon  was  anchored  in  the  little 
bottle-necked  harbor  at  Jacobshavn.  a  town  situated  less  than  2 
miles  north  of  the  fri'eat  ice  fiord  of  the  same  name.  Despite  the 
hour,  the  entire  populace  of  about  500  natives  seemed  to  be  \\\)  and 
about.  This  place  now  boasts  the  distinction  of  being  the  most 
important  town,  commercially,  in  Xorth  Greenland.  It  exports 
much  fish  and  seal  hunting  is  also  an  important  local  occupation. 
After  presenting  the  ship's  health  certificate  to  the  local  colonial 
agent,  we  turned  in  to  rest  in  preparation  for  a  tram})  over  the  hills 
which  had  been  planned  for  the  next  morning. 


n 


.,^#!'^''"*  x|>t<^ 


JACOBSHAVN,  GREENLAND 

Figure  1G. — This  village  is  located  near  the  great  Iceberg  fiord  of  the  same  name.     Its 
small  harbor,  even  in  summer,  is  seldom  free  from  glacial  ice. 

At  8.30  a.  m.  almost  the  entire  ship's  company,  followed  by  a 
crowd  of  native  women  and  children,  started  out  over  rocks  and 
meadows  for  a  point  southeast  of  the  town,  an  Eskimo  guide  leading 
the  way.  Mr.  Porsild,  of  the  Danish  Arctic  station,  accompanied  the 
commanding  officer,  talking  steadily  about  Greenland,  and  as  usual 
answering  all  questions  in  his  thorough  and  cheerful  way.  The  day 
was  dull  and  overcast,  like  the  preceding  one,  but  fortunately  visi- 
bility was  again  good. 

After  an  hour's  walk  we  reached  a  high  point  from  which  there 
was  a  fine  view  of  the  Jacobshavn  ice  fiord.  The  whole  length  and 
breadth  of  it,  comprising  over  50  square  miles,  was  one  jam  of  ice- 
bergs that  had  calved  from  the  producing  glaciers  to  the  eastward. 
From  the  western  end  of  the  ice  fiord  these  massed  icebergs  pro- 
truded into  Disko  Bay.     For  details  regarding  the  berg  production 


22 

of  this  and  other  Greenhmd  glaciers  and  ice  fiords  the  reader  is 
referred  to  Smith,  Edward  H.   (1931).^ 

Upon  returning  to  the  town  the  officers  visited  the  homes  of  the 
Danish  officials,  where  they  were  very  cordially  received.  These 
homes  at  Jacobshavn  were  very  well  furnished  and  comfortable. 
After  we  had  admired  the  potted  roses  and  asters  in  a  sort  of  con- 
servator}^ by  one  of  the  southern  bay  Avindows  of  the  local  doctor's 
house,  we  were  led  outdoors  to  see  the  garden.  Here  an  astonishing 
profusion  of  growth  w^as  show\n  us,  considering  that  we  were  well 
above  the  Arctic  Circle  and  near  where  one  of  Greenland's  mightiest 
ice  streams  debouches  into  the  sea.  Close  to  the  house  all  sorts  of 
flowering  plants  were  growing,  and  just  south  of  them  was  a  lawn 
no  bigger  than  a  large  rug,  yet  with  seats  and  a  tea  table  on  it. 


OFF   THE    MOUTH    OF   JACOBSHAVN    FIORD 

Figure  17.- — An  excellent  illustration  of  the  manner  in  which  icebergs  are  discharged 
from  the  mouth  of  the  fiord  into  DisliO  Bay.  Every  year  approximately  1,500  large 
icebergs  enter  the  open  waters  of  the  bay  at  this  point. 

There  was  a  tiny  clover  patch  near  by,  and  beyond  it  was  a  vegetable 
garden  which  was  said  to  be  cultivated  for  amusement  only  and 
not  as  a  source  of  food.  All  the  plants  outdoors  were  entirely 
unprotected  except  for  being  in  sheltered  spots  inside  a  yard  where 
the  village  dogs  could  not  destroy  them. 

Cabbages,  cauliflowers,  tomatoes,  potatoes,  lettuce,  radishes,  tur- 
nips, and  many  other  things  were  growing  in  little  beds  in  the  garden. 
Due  to  the  very  long  cool  days,  these  plants  in  some  instances  grew 
strangely.  Some  were  long  and  trailing,  whereas,  if  in  their  home 
surroundings,  they  would  have  been  stocky  and  sturdy.  The  toma- 
toes and  potatoes  were  not  expected  to  mature,  but  almost  all  the 
other  vegetables  were  certainly  large  enough  to  be  useful  on  the  table 
at  any  time, 

^Arctic  Ice  with  Especial  Reference  to  its  Distribution  to  the  North  Atlantic  Ocean. 
The  Marion  Expedition  to  Davis  Strait  and  Baffin  Bay,  under  the  Direction  of  the 
United  States  Coast  Guard,  1928,  Scientific  Results.  Bulletin  No.  19,  Part  3,  pp.  1-221, 
with  122  figs.     Washington. 


^'mAEIOn"   EXPEDITIOX    to    DAVIS    STRAIT    AND    BAFFIX    BAY        23 

At  noon,  after  an  opportunity  had  been  g-iven  the  Danes  and  the 
natives  to  visit  the  Marion^  Ave  <>ot  under  way  and  stood  out  of  the 
tiny  harbor,  so  picturesque  Avith  its  kyaks  and  other  native  boats 
and  its  numerous  small  ice  masses  brou<^ht  in  by  Avind  and  tide  from 
the  bay.  Upon  leaving  the  harbor  the  massed  bergs  just  off  the 
mouth  of  the  Jacobshavn  ice  fiord  Avere  A'isited.  A  feAV  minutes 
Avere  spent  examining  the  great  ice  Avail  formed  by  the  congestion  of 
icebergs  and  in  obtaining  from  a  dory  photographs  of  it  like  the  one 
shoAvn  in  Figure  18. 

At  1.45  p.  m.  the  Marion  Avas  headed  for  Ata,  a  small  village  32 
miles  to  the  nortliAvard  on  Prince  Island,  Avhere  a  native  guide  to 
conduct  a  party  up  into  the  inland  ice  Avas  to  be  received.  From 
4.48  to  5.25  p.  m.  the  ship  drifted  off  Ata  Avhile  the  pilot  and  guide, 
a  Greenlander  named  Peter  Peterson,  made  readA'.  came  out  in  his 


AN    ICEBERG    JAM 

Figure  18. — The  Marion  cruisins:  off  the  mouth  of  Jacobshavn  Fiord  on  August  9,  1928, 
found  the  bergs  so  tightly  packed  together  that  not  even  a  ship's  boat  could  penetrate 
beyond  the  outer  line.  On  the  average  of  twice  monthly  in  summer,  usually  about  the 
time  of  the  spring  tides,  large  numbers  of  these  bergs  float  free. 

kyak,  and  Avas  taken  aboard.  At  8.10  p.  m.  the  ship  anchored  in 
Port  Quervain  Harbor,  near  the  south  end  of  Ekip-Sermia  Glacier, 
Avhich  produces  large  numbers  of  very  small  bergs.  This  glacier 
runs  doAvn  steeply  from  the  inland  ice  and  is  broken  up  by  innumer- 
able creA^asses  Avhere  it  passes  oa  er  a  rock  spur.  Apparently  only  this 
breaking  up  process  prevents  it  from  forming  large  bergs  like  those 
that  push  seaAvard  from  the  JacobshaATi  ice  fiord. 

The  sea  Avail  of  this  glacier  Avas  about  A'ertical,  and  near  its  center 
AA^as  a  great  ice  caA^ern,  probably  the  end  of  a  tube  serA^ing  farther 
inland  as  the  conduit  pipe  for  a  subglacial  stream.  A  strong  milky 
current  setting  out  from  under  the  ice  Avas  carrying  aA\'ay  rapidly  all 
the  bergs  and  small  ice  pieces  as  fast  as  they  Avere  calved.  Sliots 
fired  into  the  glacier  from  the  Marion's  3-inch  gun  brought  doAvn  a 
feAA^  tons  of  ice  from  Aveakened  and  OA'erhanging  cornices,  but  the 
firing  AA-as  really  Avithout  appreciable  effect.    Spontaneous  cahdng,  on 


24 

the  other  hand,  was  occurring  frequently  because  of  the  compara- 
tively high  temperature  of  the  day  and  the  steady  advance  of  the 
glacier  into  deep  Avater  along  a  broad  front.  When  the  larger  ice 
blocks  calved  off  there  were  thunderous  noises  and  the  swells  set 
up  often  made  the  ship  roll  suddenly  and  the  rocky  shores  of  the 
sheltered  anchorage  resound  with  breaking  waves.  Thousands  of 
sea  gulls  were  resting  on  the  water  near  the  ice  front,  particularly 
about  the  entrance  to  the  ice  cavern.  These  birds  would  fly  about 
w^ith  excited  screaming  Avhenever  ice  masses  crashed  down  in  their 
vicinity.  Figures  19,  20,  and  21  illustrate  conditions  about  the  end 
of  the  glacier  at  Port  Quervain. 


A  GLACIAL    SCENE 

FiGUKB  19. — The  Coast  Guard  patrol  boat  Marion  anchored  at  Port  Quervain  on  the  west 
coast  of  Greenland  in  latitude  69°  45'  N.  This  glacier,  Ekip  Sermia,  calves  a  con- 
siderable amount  of  ice  yearly  but  never  in  pieces  the  size  of  a  large  iceberg. 

At  8.30  a.  m.  on  August  10  the  ship  w^as  left  with  a  few  ship 
keepers  only,  while  most  of  the  officers  and  crew  were  boated  ashore 
for  a  hike  to  the  inland  ice.  The  latter  is  easily  accessible  at  this 
point,  and  it  was  from  here  that  Dequervain,  the  Swiss  glaciologist, 
scaled  it  and  crossed  in  1912  to  Greenland's  east  coast.  We  found 
the  Avalking  inland  from  the  end  of  the  glacier  good,  but  it  entailed 
much  going  up  and  down  hill,  tiring  for  sailors,  though  probably 
easy  enough  for  experienced  mountaineers. 

There  were  many  blueberries  near  the  sea  level,  but  as  the  altitude 
increased  the  cold  i3ecame  greater,  the  soil  poorer,  and  the  vegetation 
scantier  and  scantier.  About  noon  the  party,  most  of  them  now  very 
lirecl  from  the  rapid  pace  set  by  the  native  guide,  began  toiling  up 


25 

the  steep  sloj^e  of  the  inhiiid  ice's  terminal  moraine.  Parts  of  this 
slope  were  covered  with  snow  and  ice  surfaces  inclined  at  an  angle 
like  that  of  the  roof  of  a  house.  These  patches  of  neve  were  prob- 
ably caused  by  the  downslope  wind  in  winter  blowing  snow  off  the 
ice  cap  and  over  the  top  of  the  terminal  moraine. 

As  soon  as  the  moraine  had  been  surmounted,  the  expanse  of  the 
inland  ice  could  be  seen  rising  in  a  gentle  slope  toward  the  interior. 
It  looked  much  like  a  frozen  sea,  and  a  strong  raw  wind,  like  a  cold 
sea  breeze,  was  blowing  dow^n  slope  toward  the  ice  margin  upon 
which  we  stood.  There  were  some  stones  and  sand  on  the  ice  near 
the  margin  and  the  surface  was  cut  up  slightly  by  small  running 
streams,  most  of  which  disappeared  between  the  ice  and  the  terminal 


A  GLACIERS  DISCHARGE 

Figure  20. — Close  view  of  the  projecting  southern  edge  of  the  Ekip  Sermia  glacier  at  Port 
Quervain  on  August  10,  1928.  This  gives  some  idea  of  the  amount  of  dirt  carried  from 
the  land  and  of  the  glacial  flotsam  in  the  vicinity  of  active  discharge. 

moraine.     In  some  places  these  streams  had  cut  through  the  latter, 
however,  and  could  be  seen  rushing  down  it  in  little  casades. 

A  half  mile  in  from  the  ice  margin  the  sand  and  gravel  on  the 
ice  had  decreased  to  a  negligible  amount.  All  that  could  be  seen 
toward  the  interior  Avas  the  slightly  undulating  surface  of  the  ice 
cap,  still  cut  up  in  places  by  the  small  brooks  of  ice  water  that  were 
flowing  in  shallow  beds  of  clean  glacial  ice. 

After  a  few  minutes  spent  in  gazing,  the  Marion's  party  turned 
their  backs  to  the  searching  clown-slope  Avincl,  walked  to  the  ice  edge, 
and  climbed  down  the  terminal  moraine.  Some  distance  farther  sea- 
ward in  a  bleak  but  fairly  sheltered  spot  a  stop  was  made  to  eat  lunch. 
From  this  stopping  point  a  slow  march  was  started  for  the  shore  at 
Port  Quervain.  In  the  loAver  levels  several  stops  were  made  in  blue- 
berry patches,  where  many  handfuls  of  delicious  berries  were  gathered 
and  eaten  by  the  tired  sailors  as  they  lay  sprawled  about  to  rest. 
68165—32 3 


26 

Upon  returning  to  the  ship,  several  members  of  the  crew  who  had 
taken  special  pricle  in  the  work  of  the  expedition  went  to  the  com- 
manding officer  and  requested  permission  to  erect  some  sort  of  a 
monument  ashore  at  Port  Quervain  to  mark  the  northernmost  point 
ever  attained  by  a  United  States  Coast  Guard  vessel  on  the  eastern 
side  of  North  America.  Accordingly  a  Avritten  record  was  wrapped 
in  a  weatherproof  covering  and  placed  in  a  cairn  built  on  top  of  a 
promiment  near-by  hill.  The  men  amassed  an  impressive  pile  of 
stones  for  their  purpose  and  topped  it  all  with  a  3-inch  brass  cartridge 
case  inscribed  "  Marion  Expedition,  1928." 

At  7.05  p.  m.  on  August  10,  1928,  the  Marion  began  proceeding 
toward  Ata,  where  the  guide,  Peterson,  was  returned  to  his  home  at 
9.10  p.  m.  This  little  outpost  village  consisted  of  a  few  tiny  houses 
built  on  a  rocky  lowland  at  the  base  of  towering  mountains.     The 


A  FLANK  VIEW  OF  A  GREENLAND  GLACIER 

Figure  21. — Looking  back  towards  tbe  glacier  that  discliarges  at  Port  Quervain,  Green- 
land. The  steep  slope  passed  over  by  the  ice  just  before  reaching  the  sea  breaks  the 
glacier  up  into  small  pieces.     Therefore,  this  ice  stream  never  produces  large  bergs. 

house  of  the  native  outpost  manager  was  visited  by  some  of  the  offi- 
cers, Avho  Avere  given  strong  black  coffee  there  in  a  room  Avhich 
contained  a  hard  wooden  sleeping  bench,  a  few  chairs,  and  a  potted 
plant  on  a  stand  by  the  window.  There  were  some  inexpensive 
framed  prints  on  the  walls.  The  outpost  manager  then  visited  the 
Marion^  accompanied  by  his  wife  and  grown  daughter.  The  latter, 
a  tall,  splendid-looking  Eskimo  girl,  was  dressed  in  fine  sealskin 
clothing  and  wore  the  bright  and  elaborately  decorated  high  boots 
that  are  possessed  by  all  native  women  of  any  means. 

Several  bergs  Avere  grounded  off  Ata  near  the  Marion^  anchorage. 
A  little  fleet  of  seal  hunters  in  kyaks  Avere  soon  seen  among  them, 
approaching  from  Ata  Sound.  Each  tiny  boat  had  a  Avhite  cloth  like 
a  little  square  sail  at  its  boAv.  We  Avere  told  that  these  Avere  not  used 
for  propulsion,  but  were  for  the  kyakers  to  hide  behind  Avhile  stealing 
up  close  to  unsuspecting  seals.    Some  of  the  natives  Avere  induced  to 


EXPEDITION    TO   DAVIS   STRAIT    AND   B AFFIX    BAY        27 


maneiivei'  and  throw  their  spears  at  objects  in  the  water  near  the  ship 
and  the  grounded  bergs.     The  Greenlanders  could  dart  about  very 
siviiifuUy  in  their  tiny  craft  and  coidd  throw  tlieir  spears  very  accu- 
rately into  pieces  of 
meat     and     blubber 
from     distances    o  f 
about  20  yards. 

At  6.15  a.  m.  on 
August  11  the  Mar- 
ion departed  from 
the  smooth  anchor- 
age off  Ata.  She 
rounded  the  south- 
ern tip  of  Prince  Is- 
land and  then  pro- 
ceeded n  o  r  t  h  w  a  r  d 
into  the  Yaigat. 
The  day,  like  the 
preceding  one,  was 
almost  calm,  with 
partly  cloud}^  skies 
and  temperatures 
from  40°  to  51°  F. 
The  northern  end  of 
Disko  Bay  and  the 
Viagat— the  same  as 
the  water  between 
GodhaAii  and  Ja- 
cob s  h  a  v  n — w^  a  s 
studded  with  hun- 
dreds of  bergs  of 
every  size. 

The  run  up  tin 
Vaigat  between  tlic 
heights  of  Disko  Is- 
land and  Xugsuak 
Peninsula  was  most 
impressive,  for  on 
either  side  of  the 
narrow^  strait  tow^- 
ered  mountains  over 
5,000  feet  high. 
Their  tops  w^ere 
capped  with  ice 
domes,  but  lower 
dowm  there  was  lit- 
tle but  bare  rock. 
Low^  vegetation  flour- 
ished where  there  was  soil  near  sea  level  and  could  be  seen  in  ever- 
diminishing  quantities  as  altitude  was  gained. 

The  higher  parts  of  the  mountains  were  formed  of  alternate  layers 
of  red  lava   and  ash.     Farther  down  they   consisted  of  yellowish 


BOUND  FOR  THE  INLAND  ICE 

Figure  22. — During  our  stop  at  Port  Quervain  we  took  the 
opportunity  to  journej'  eastward  to  the  edge  of  the  vast 
sheet  of  inland  ice  that  covers  about  half  a  million  square 
miles  of  the  surface  of  Greenland.  Only  the  coastal  regions 
of  the  great  island  are  free  from  glacial  ice.  This  view 
shows  some  of  the  crew  surmounting  the  terminal  moraine 
of  the  ice  cap. 


28 


' '  MARION  ' '   EXPEDITION    TO   DAVIS   STEAIT   AND   BAFFIN    BAY 


limestone  and  sandstone,  streaked  with  almost  horizontal  seams  of 
coal.  Near  sea  level,  as  at  Godhavn,  the  usual  rock  was  ancient 
ice-worn  gneiss. 

From  2,23  to  4.45  p.  m.  the  Marion  was  engaged  taking  a  series  of 
oceanographic  stations  to  the  southwestward  across  the  Vaigat  from 
70°  08'  N.,  52°  37'  W.  After  the  last  station  the  Disko  Island 
shore  was  skirted  southeastward  for  a  couple  of  miles  to  where  the 
Danes  were  developing  a  coal  mine  in  latitude  70°  04'  N.  Near  the 
mine  a  muddy  torrent  roared  down  from  the  ice  cap  on  the  lofty 
plateau  of  Disko  Island.  In  the  yellow  water  off  this  stream  the 
Marion  came  to  anchor  at  5.30  p.  m.,  Doctor  Porsild  having  advised 


COAST   GUARDSMEN   AND   NATIVES   DANCE 

Figure  23. — Almost  every  hamlet  at  wliicb  the  Marion  stopped  honored  us  with  a  dance. 
The  settlement  about  the  coal  mine  at  East  Disko  on  the  shores  of  the  Vaisat  (lati- 
tude 70°  04'  N.)  was  no  exception.  Note  the  picturesque  sealskin  hoots  of  the  Green- 
land women. 


a  short  stop  to  afford  the  European  mining  engineers  and  theii* 
families  a  break  in  the  monotony  of  an  isolated  life. 

The  coal  seams  about  the  mine  were  visited,  and  the  ship  was 
inspected  by  the  Europeans  and  a  few  of  the  natives  of  the  place. 
The  Danes  hope  to  produce  enough  coal  at  the  mine  to  take  care  of 
Greenland's  requirements,  making  further  importation  of  European 
fuel  for  heating  unnecessary,  and  furnishing  work  for  a  number  of 
natives  at  the  same  time. 

True  to  form,  the  latter  got  up  a  dance  at  short  notice  for  their 
sailor  visitors.  It  was  held  here  on  a  small  board  platform  in  the 
open.  Although  the  sun  was  still  several  hours  high,  the  mining 
settlement  already  lay  in  the  shadow  of  the  rocky  heights  of  Disko 


EXPEDITIOX    TO   DAVIS    STRAIT    AND    BAFFIN    BAY        29 

Island  to  the  southward.  The  sunny  berg-dotted  waters  of  the 
Vaigat.  just  north  of  the  vilhige.  made  a  strange  and  picturesque 
background  for  the  dance  on  the  darkening  shore.     (See  fig.  23.) 

At  9.15  p.  ni.  the  ship  was  got  underway  and  headed  southeastward. 
During  the  night  the  shoals  off  Mudder  Bay  were  passed,  and  at 
7.20  on  August  12  the  Marion  came  to  anchor  at  (lodhavn  for  the  last 
time.  A  busy  day  ensued,  Avhich  included  taking  aboard  1,400  gallons 
of  fuel  oil,  G50  gallons  of  water,  and  saying  good-by  to  new-made 
friends.  The  officers  went  to  a  dinner  at  the  Danish  Arctic  station, 
where  they  were  royally  entertained  by  the  Porsild  family.  After 
an  hour  spent  in  examining  the  museum  and  library  at  the  station, 
the  officers  and  their  hosts  went  through  pouring  rain  to  a  sogg^^ 
field  where  a  soccer  game  was  held.  The  Maidon^s  crew  played 
against  the  combined  forces  of  the  Danes  and  natives,  proving  no 
match  for  them.  The  local  forces  won  easily  over  their  less  experi- 
enced competitors  by  the  tremendous  score  of  26  goals  to  none. 

The  evening  was  rainy  and  foggy,  but  the  mountains  behind  the 
harbor  broke  the  force  of  the  wind  at  the  anchorage,  so  a  quiet  night 
was  spent  on  the  ship  while  waiting  for  the  storm  raging  oifshore 
to  moderate.  Finally,  at  12.45  p.  m.  on  August  13,  1928,  the  last  fare- 
wells were  said,  the  anchor  was  hove  up,  and  the  Marion  and  her 
complement  departed  from  Godhavn,  carrying  away  many  fine 
gifts  from  the  hospitable  inhabitants  of  North  Greenland.  Still 
more  valuable  and  more  imperishable  than  the  material  gifts  which 
we  took  with  us  were  the  vivid  recollections  of  the  kindness  and 
helpfulness  of  the  people  of  the  Arctic  wonderland  surrounding 
Disko  Bay. 

We  were  much  interested  in  a  Danish  oceanographic  expedition 
under  Commander  Kiis-Cartensen,  of  the  Koyal  Danish  Navy, 
which  was  cruising  during  the  summer  of  1928  in  the  waters  of 
Baffin  Bay.  His  ship  was  north  at  Etah,  Greenland,  while  we  were 
around  Disko  Bay,  so  we  failed  to  meet  him  personally.  Greetings 
were  exchanged  by  radio,  however,  and  a  package  containing  sketches 
of  our  track  and  a  description  of  our  work  was  left  for  Commander 
Riis-Cartensen  at  the  Danish  Arctic  station  just  before  we  departed. 

The  Marion  ran  westward  and  northwestward  until  about  15  miles 
from  Godhavn.  Then  an  oceanographic  station  was  taken  close  to 
the  land,  the  first  of  a  row  of  stations  that  we  hoped  to  take  to  the 
southwestwarcl  for  220  miles  to  Cape  Dier,  Baffin  Island.  A  fresh 
southeast  breeze  was  still  blowing  and  it  was  cloud}^  The  next  day 
the  weather  was  worse — fog,  then  rain,  and  then  more  fog.  The 
southeast  breeze  increased  to  gale  force,  but  the  Marion  kept  on  tak- 
ing her  stations  and  other  ol)servations  as  best  she  could.  Between 
4  p.  m.  and  8  p.  m.  the  gale  moderated  suddenly  to  a  flat  calm,  but 
the  dense  fog  still  persisted.  Several  bergs  and  growlers  were  sighted 
during  the  da3%  becoming  more  and  more  numerous  along  the  course 
as  the  evening  advanced. 

At  12.20  a.  m.  on  August  15  the  Marion  was  stopped  on  the  east- 
ern edge  of  pack  ice.  The  night  was  much  darker  than  the  nights 
had  been  some  100  miles  farther  north  at  Godhavn,  and  it  was  very 
fogg}^,  but  the  i^ans  of  ice  close  aboard  were  plainly  visible,  though 
they  Avere  at  first  thought  to  be  icel)ergs  and  growlers  instead  of  pack 
ice.    At  5  a.  m.  the  fog  began  to  dissipate,  permitting  a  fair  view  to 


30 

be  had  of  the  ice  pack  to  the  westward.  At  7.30  a.  m.  it  was  clearing 
rapidly,  and  16  bergs,  some  in  and  some  east  of  the  flat  ice,  were 
counted  within  the  circle  of  visibility.  At  7.45  a.  m.  the  Marion  was 
headed  on  her  course  to  the  southwestward,  proceeding  into  the 
open  pack. 

By  8  a.  m.  visibility  was  excellent.  The  sky  remained  overcast 
throughout,  but  there  was  no  wind  all  day  long.  The  Marion  ran 
among  the  ice  cakes,  making  good  a  general  course  of  south-southwest. 
The  pack  ice  averaged  perhaps  10  to  12  feet  in  thickness  and  was 
of  the  late  summer  variety,  consisting  of  small  pans  from  a  very 
few  3^ards  to  about  50  yards  across.  There  were  almost  no  open 
leads  in  the  slack  ice,  but  in  some  directions  the  scattered  ice  pieces 
were  less  numerous  than  in  others,  and  these  paths  of  least  resistance 


AN   ICE-CHOKED   WAVELESS   SEA 

FinuRE  !24. — This  late  summer  pack  ice  was  encountered  in  Davis  Strait  off  Cape  Dier, 
Baffin  Island,  on  August  15,  1928.  The  further  westward  the  Marion  worked  the 
closer  packed  this  ice  became.  It  effectively  stopped  all  progress  when  the  ship  was 
still  36  miles  from  the  Baffin  Island  coast. "  This  sort  of  ice  was  never  on  the  land, 
like  the  icebergs,  but  represents  the  melting  remnants  of  ice  fields  frozen  during  winter 
on  the  surface  of  the  sea. 

were  taken  whenever  they  led  in  the  general  direction  of  our  objec- 
tive. Cape  Dier,  Baffin  Island. 

The  farther  the  Marion  penetrated  to  the  westward  the  closer 
packed  the  shattered  ice  became.  The  land  about  Cape  Dier  could 
not  be  reached  because  of  36  miles  of  close-packed  ice  without  leads  at 
which  the  Marion  was  soon  vainly  pushing,  trying  to  force  a  way. 
Oceanographic  stations,  soundings,  and  bottom  samples  were  taken 
at  regular  intervals  just  as  though  the  Marion  were  on  an  ordinary 
sea  instead  of  a  silent,  motionless  one,  choked  with  broken  pack  ice 
above  which  in  all  directions  rose  scattered  bergs.  Sun  sights  taken 
through  the  light  cloud  blanket  showed  that  the  ship  and  the  ice 
were  both  steadily  drifting  southward  with  the  cold  current. 

Early  in  the  day  several  walrus  were  seen  resting  on  ice  cakes. 
One  of  them  was  shot  with  a  rifle,  but  it  plunged  into  the  sea,  where 
it  died  and  sank  before  it  could  be  captured.     Therefore  no  walrus 


^'mAEIOX"   EXPEDITIOX    to   DAVIS   STRAIT   AXD   BAFFIN    BAY        31 

meat  was  had  for  the  mess,  but  much  seal  and  whale  meat  brought 
out  from  the  Disko  Bay  refrion  was  eaten. 

At  5. 07  p.  m.  a  large  polar  bear  and  two  young  ones  were  seen 
eating  a  seal  on  a  near-by  ice  cake.  The  ship  worked  toward  them. 
They  tried  to  escape  by  swimming  and  running,  but  tAvo  of  them 
were  killed  with  rifles  before  they  could  get  away.  The  third,  a  cub, 
weighing  about  200  pounds,  remained  roaring  about  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  dead  bears.  A  dory  was  quickly  lowered  and  the  small  bear  was 
noosed  and  towed  alongside.  The  two  dead  bears  were  hoisted 
aboard  and  then  the  live  one,  growling  and  snarling,  was  lifted  to 
the  deck  by  numerous  lines  slipped  about  the  neck,  body,  and  legs. 
On  the  ship  it  was  overpoAvered  and  muzzled  b}^  many  hands,  then 
dragged  forward  and  thrown  into  the  forehold.    After  the  hatch  was 


CLOSE  TO  A  TOWERING  irEBER(; 

Figure  25. — The  Ma/rion  has  just  landed  photographers  on  the  iceberg,  and  is  about  to 
back  away.  The  manned  dory  by  the  ice  cake  is  for  rescue  work  in  case  the  berg 
should  break  up  or  turn  over.  There  were  numerous  icebergs  like  this  one  drifting 
south  with  the  pack  ice  in  the  western  portion  of  Davis  Strait.  Note  the  one  near 
the  horizon  between  the  two  masts  of  the  patrol  boat. 

dogged  down,  the  bear  was  a  secure  captive,  though  free  to  rage 
about  among  the  lines,  bags  of  coal,  and  paint  cans  of  its  large  prison. 

At  7  p.  m.  the  Aveather  grew  foggy  again,  but  it  remained  calm. 
Every  effort  made  to  push  to  the  soutliAvestAvard  Avas  thwarted  by 
the  ice.  The  ship  lurched  and  shook  Avhen  it  encountered  heavy 
floes,  and  the  corners  of  the  ice  cakes  cracked  and  thundered  as  they 
scraped  aft  along  the  sides.  At  8  p.  m.  the  attempt  to  go  soutliAvest- 
ward  Avas  abandoned  and  the  ship  AA^as  headed  southeast  in  hope  of 
finding  more  open  Avater.  After  bucking  the  ice  for  some  5  miles  aa'o 
became  Avedged  betAA^een  floes,  from  Avhich  position  no  amount  of  back- 
ing and  filling  could  dislodge  us.  At  10.30  p.  m.  the  engines  Avere 
stopped  and  the  ship  remained  drifting  quietly  soutliAvard  in  the 
grip  of  the  ice  until  the  next  morning. 

DaAAm  presented  a  beautiful  Arctic  scene.  We  could  as  well  have 
been  at  the  Pole  itself,  except  for  the  distant  mountains  of  Baffin 


32        ' '  MARION  ' '  EXPEDITION    TO   DAVIS   STRAIT   AND   BAFFIN    BAY 

Island,  which  in  the  early  morning  light  were  transformed  to  purest 
white  and  gold.  Ice  stretched  as  far  as  we  could  see,  and  the  im- 
pressiA^eness  of  our  surroundings  was  further  emphasized  by  the  great 
stillness  j^revailing  everywhere.  It  was  plain  that  attempts  to  secure 
observations  near  Cape  Dier  avouIcI  have  to  be  abandoned,  for  the 
time  being  at  least.  Most  of  the  floes  that  now  surrounded  the  ship 
consisted  of  heavy  pack  ice  that  extended  downwards  in  the  water 
10  to  15  feet.  We  were  timid  about  using  our  propellers,  which,  of 
course,  were  quite  light  and  very  easily  bent.  Even  at  their  depth 
of  7  feet  just  one  lick  w^ould  be  enough  to  place  one  permanently  out 


i 


A  CAPTIVE  IS  ABOUT  TO  BE  HAULED  ABOARD 

Figure  26.- — This  polar  bear  cub  was  noosed  from  a  dory  sent  out  among  ice  cakes  after 
her  mother  and  brother  were  shot.  She  was  towed  alongside,  secured  with  additional 
lines,  and  placed  in  the  forepeak  after  a  stiff  fight.  She  remained  aboard  from  August 
15,  1928,  until  shipped  from  New  London,  Conn.,  to  the  National  Zoo  at  Washington, 
D.  C,  over  a  month  later. 

of  commission,  and  two  such  bloAVs  against  cakes  of  ice  miglit  sud- 
denly leave  us  helpless  in  a  very  precarious  position.  So  we  worked 
things  gently  for  a  Avhile  and  finally  got  the  ship  turned  offshore  by 
placing  the  stem  against  an  especially  heavy  floe. 

By  4.07  a.  m.  on  August  16  the  ice  had  slackened  somcAvhat  and  the 
ship  cautiously  began  AA^orking  due  soutliAvard.  The  fog  cleared  up 
early  and  another  fine  calm  day  Avas  experienced,  Avith  much  bright 
sunshine,  especially  in  the  afternoon.  Due  to  the  ice  and  cold  Avater 
about,  the  air  temperatures  remained  betAveen  36°  and  42°  all  day, 
about  10°  colder  than  aA^erage  temperatures  experienced  around  Disko 
Island. 


MAPvIOX        EXPEDITIOX    TO   DAYIS    STRAIT   AND   BAFI IX    BAY        33 

At  8  a.  m.,  as  soon  as  we  were  out  of  the  worst  of  the  pack,  we 
headed  northwestward  in  a  final  effort  to  approach  close  to  the  shores 
of  Baffin  Island  in  the  present  latitude.  The  air  was  so  remarkably 
clear  that  the  lii<2:h  land  to  the  southward  of  Cape  Dier  and  due 
Avest  behind  Cape  Walsin<:hani  could  be  seen  in  detail  plainly,  though 
our  observations  showed  it  should  be  over  40  miles  away.  Close 
packed  ice  was  soon  encountered,  and  it  was  impossible  to  make  much 
progress  toward  the  beckoning  peaks,  glaciers,  and  snow  fields. 
After  bucking  the  ice  for  two  hours,  the  last  attempt  to  reach  Cape 
Dier  was  abandoned  and  the  vessel  was  headed  south-southeast 
toward  the  open  water  in  the  center  of  Davis  Strait. 

One  large  polar  bear  and  several  seals  were  seen  on  the  ice,  and  in 
the  Avater  between  the  floes  thousands  of  murres  and  dovekies  were 
swimming  about  in  pairs.  The  bear  showed  up  cream-colored  against 
the  dazzling  whiteness  of  the  pack  ice,  just  as  the  three  bears  of  the 
previous  day  had  done.  No  animals  were  shot  because  of  the  addi- 
tion of  several  hundred  pounds  of  bear  meat  to  the  larder  on  the 
previous  day. 

During  the  early  afternoon  the  ship  cruised  south-southeastward 
through  the  ice,  the  floes  becoming  more  and  more  separated  by  open 
water.  When  a  few  miles  from  the  edge  of  the  pack,  the  ship  was 
stopped  near  one  of  the  numerous  bergs  long  enough  to  permit  photo- 
graphs of  the  Marion  and  the  pack  ice  to  be  taken.      (See  fig.  25.) 

For  some  time  before  making  the  above  stop  a  slight  swell  from 
the  southeast  had  been  noticed.  It  grew  stronger  as  the  edge  of  the 
pack  was  approached,  making  loud,  gurgling  noises  about  the  edges 
of  the  rolling  ice  cakes.  B}^  5  p.  m.  the  last  of  the  small  pans  were 
left  behind.  A  few  bergs  were  sighted  outside  the  limits  of  the 
j^ack  ice,  however,  and  until  evening  iceblink  and  damp  vapor  rising 
from  the  ice  and  cold  water  to  the  westward  could  be  seen. 

Ver}^  foolishly,  just  before  the  pack  ice  was  left,  the  hatch  to  the 
forehold  was  slightly  opened  to  enable  the  captive  bear  to  get  light 
and  ventilation.  It  was  believed  that  the  weight  of  the  steel  hatch 
cover,  high  over  the  bear's  head,  would  prove  sufficient  restraint  to 
keep  it  a  prisoner.  In  a  short  time,  however,  the  officer  of  the  deck 
saw  from  the  bridge  that  the  bear's  head  and  paws  were  pr^dng  the 
hatch  cover  farther  open.  An  instant  later  the  bear  squirmed  its 
way  free  and  began  running  about  the  forward  deck.  The  alarm  was 
given  and  officers  and  men  rushed  madty  forward  to  keep  their  prize 
from  getting  away.  Four  times  the  bear  tried  to  leap  over  the  rail 
into  the  sea,  but  each  time  it  was  pulled  back  by  the  hair  on  its  hind 
legs.  On  one  of  these  occasions  it  turned  and  severW  bit  the  hand 
of  its  restrainer  before  he  could  let  go.  An  attempt  was  made  to 
throw  a  blanket  over  the  bear's  head,  but  the  big  cub  was  too  fierce  and 
quick.  It  tore  the  blanket  aside,  knocking  down  the  man  who  was 
holding  it  and  ripping  the  back  out  of  his  coat.  A  liA^ely  fight  ensued 
until  many  men  closed  in  on  the  bear  and  by  force  of  numbers  held  it 
helpless  until  it  could  be  dragged  to  the  hatch  and  thrown  into  the 
forehold  once  more. 

A  little  later  the  bear  was  securel}-  noosed  by  several  lines  and 
lifted  from  the  hold.  It  was  dragged  to  a  strong  cage  that  had  been 
constructed  of  lumber  and  wire  and  wedired  in  amonij  the  oil  drums 


34 


on  the  deck  aft.  Here  the  bear,  which  was  soon  named  Marion,  was 
kept  until  shipped  from  New  London,  Conn.,  over  one  month  later, 
to  the  National  Zoo  at  Washington,  D.  C. 

She  ate  very  little  during  this  period,  practically  refusing  to  touch 
any  food  except  slices  of  her  dead  mother  and  brother,  of  which 

she  would  eat  spar- 
ingly from  time  to 
time.  She  was  al- 
w^ays  trying  to 
scratch  and  gnaw 
her  way  out,  so  the 
cage  frequently  had 
to  be  repaired  with 
new  boards  and  re- 
inforced with  more 
wire.  Marion  w^as 
extremely  sly  and 
vicious  and  would 
make  sudden  rushes 
to  surprise  and  bite 
those  working  about 
her  cage.  The  only 
time  she  seemed  to 
like  her  captivity 
was  when  the  wash- 
d  e  c  k  hose  was 
turned  on  her  to 
give  her  a  daily 
hath.  Her  bad  tem- 
per at  all  other 
times  was  well  un- 
derstood by  every- 
o  n  e,  a  n  cl  many 
anxious  hours  were 
spent  by  light  sleep- 
ers who  had  visions 
of  her  escaping  at 
night  and  seeking 
vengeance  upon  her 
abductors  by  means 
of  tooth  and  claw. 
Through  the  calm 
clear  night  of  Au- 
gust 16  the  Marion 
ran  to  the  south- 
ward in  open  water, 
taking  stations, 
soundings,  and  bot- 
tom samples,  ac- 
cording to  plan.  At  4.30  a.  m.  on  the  ITth  the  southeastern  corner  of 
the  pack  ice  was  sighted  in  64^  40'  N..  59°  08'  W.  The  thick  pans 
here  w^ere  small  and  deeply  waterworn.  Some  of  them  resembled 
giant  mush  rooms  raised  on  short  stems  a  little  above  the  sea  surface. 
The  sea  and  swell  made  a  noise  like  the  roaring  of  breakers  as  it 


THERE  WILL  BE   BEAR    STEAKS    TO  NKillT 

Figure  27. — One  of  the  seamen  is  here  skinning  the  mother 
of  the  captive  cub  "  Marion."  The  skin  of  this  bear  was 
salted  down  and  brought  in  excellent  condition  to  the 
United  States.  Lean  meat  as  sweet  and  tender  as  veal 
was  found  under  the  insulating  laj^er  of  fat. 


^ '  MARIOX  '  ^   EXPEDITION    TO   DAVIS   STRAIT   AND   BAFFIN    BAY        35 

lapped  at  the  melting  floes.  The  edge  of  this  last  pack  ice  sighted 
during  the  expedition  was  skirted  for  5  miles  to  the  southeastward, 
after  which  the  southerly  course  could  be  resumed  again  without 
hindrance. 

From  64°  07'  X.,  59°  05'  W.,  a  line  of  stations  Avas  taken  to  the 
westsouthwest  toward  Cape  St.  David,  Baffin  Island,  for  nearly 
120  miles.  The  weather  was  mostly  clear,  with  fine  visibility,  while 
light  westerly  airs  prevailed.  About  4G  icebergs  Avere  sighted  during 
the  day,  but  the  ship  was  south  of  all  the  pack  ice  that  had  prevented 
a  close  approach  to  Baffin  Island,  120  miles  farther  north.  Many 
astronomical  observations  Avere  taken,  and  at  about  11  p.  m.,  after 
the  eA'ening  star  sights  had  been  computed,  it  Avas  thought  that  the 
ship's  position  was  quite  Avell  knoAvn.  Throughout  the  late  afternoon 
the  heights  of  Baffin  Island  had  been  visible  to  the  westAvard,  and 
many  bearings  Avere  taken  of  points  thought  to  be  Cape  St.  David 
and  Cape  Murchison.  The  station  program  was  continued  on 
through  the  night,  hoAveA^er,  it  being  planned  to  take  the  last  station 
a  safedistance  east  of  BreA^oort  Island  at  4  a.  m. 

At  1  a.  m.  the  fathometer  shoAved  the  officer  of  the  deck  that  the 
water  was  shoaling  considerably.  He  looked  around  in  the  darkness 
and  saw  the  dim  outlines  of  an  island  to  the  northeastward  and  the 
high  land  ahead  seemed  to  be  close  aboard.  He  took  the  inshore 
station  at  once,  not  daring  to  go  on  any  farther.  Then  a  course  to 
the  southeastAvard  Avas  run. 

No  land  Avas  visible  at  daylight  on  the  morning  of  the  18th,  but 
a.  m.  star  and  sun  sights  A^erified  the  positions  carried  forAvard  by 
dead  reckoning  from  the  evening  before.  The  chronometer's  error 
Avas  well  knoAvn,  because  radio  time  ticks  were  being  heard  almost 
daily.  Apparently  the  land  about  Cape  Murchison  and  Cape  St. 
DaAdd  Avas  charted  on  our  copy  of  British  Admiralty  Chart  235 
about  20  miles  to  the  southAvest  of  its  true  ]:)Osition.  This  can  not  be 
stated  as  an  absolute  fact,  due  to  the  slight  possibility  of  unusual 
refraction,  to  the  darkness,  and  to  the  hurried  manner  in  AAdiich  the 
Marion  had  to  approach  and  leaA^e  the  coast.  The  fact  that  an  ap- 
parent error  in  the  chart  was  noted  should  certainly  be  mentioned 
here,  however,  in  order  that  the  land's  position  may  be  checked 
up  in  the  future  by  the  next  expedition  passing  through  the  region 
concerned. 

August  18  Avas  a  fine  clear  day  Avith  moderate  northwesterly 
breezes.  All  day  long  and  until  4  a.  m.  August  19  the  ship  con- 
tinued cruising  to  the  southeastAvard,  stopping  to  take  stations  CA^ery 
25  miles.  Numerous  bergs  Avere  sighted  until  the  ship  ran  out  of  the 
cold  current  Avith  surface  temperatures  of  37°  F.  and  sot  into  the 
47°  F.  Avater  situated  farther  out  in  Davis  Strait.  The  last  berg 
sighted  from  this  line  of  stations  was  passed  in  62°  53'  N.,  61°  35'  W. 

The  greater  part  of  Sunday,  August  19,  Avas  spent  running  to  the 
Avestward  on  a  line  of  stations  laid  in  toAvard  Resolution  Island. 
There  Avas  a  moderate  nortliAAest  gale  almost  all  day.  Late  in  the 
afternoon,  Avhile  it  Avas  bloAAing  the  hardest,  an  end  flange  on  the 
drum  of  the  forAvard  Avinch  began  to  bulge  out  Avith  a  crack  that  grew 
wider  and  Avider,  and  finally  prevented  turning  at  all.  The  manu- 
facturer that  supplied  the  hoists  for  use  on  the  ice  patrol  in  1927  had 
not  designed  the  drum  flanges  with  sufficient  strength  to  Avithstand 
the  side  thrust  Avhich  occurs  when  several  thousands  of  meters  of 


36 

wire  are  tightly  wound  on  the  drnni.  The  same  faihire  happened  to 
the  other  large  winch  drum  on  the  first  long  leg  of  the  expedition, 
and  it  also  occurred  once  during  the  ice  patrol  of  1927.  In  the  latter 
instance  repairs  were  not  attempted  until  the  season  was  over,  but  in 
this  case  no  such  delay  could  be  thought  of,  for  we  badly  needed  the 
winch  for  use  at  the  next  station,  which  would  be  reached  in  three 
hours'  time.  All  hands  were  turned  to  reeling  off  the  2,800  meters  of 
3^2-inch  wire  to  the  large  wooden  spool  upon  which  it  had  come.  As 
soon  as  the  winch  drum  Avas  empty  the  most  resourceful  of  the  motor 
machinist's  mates  set  to  work  repairing  the  damage  by  bolting  on 
pieces  of  ^^"ii^ch  scrap  iron  bent  in  the  form  of  arms  to  strengthen 
the  drum  and  to  hold  on  the  wire.  By  10  o'clock  that  night  the  wire 
was  back  on  the  drum  and  the  winch  was  in  operation  taking  the  next 
set  of  observations. 

By  5  a.  m.  on  August  20,  the  wind  had  died  down  to  a  gentle  north- 
west air,  and  the  weather  remained  fine  and  sunny  until  6  p.  m.  Sev- 
eral bergs  were  sighted  during  the  day.  Around  noon.  Resolution 
Island,  the  northern  portal  of  Hudson  Strait,  was  sighted  ahead. 
At  2.30  p.  m.  the  last  station  of  the  line  was  taken  20  miles  due  east 
of  Gape  Resolution.  Many  observations  of  the  sun  were  made  both 
prior  to  and  after  the  time  this  station  was  occupied  and  all  of  them 
shoAved  that  the  coast  about  Cape  Resolution  was  apparently  laid 
doAA^n  on  our  copy  of  B.  A.  Chart  235  about  12  miles  east  of  its  true 
position.  This  seemed  unbelievable,  as  Ave  Avere  noAv  in  fairly  Avell- 
known  Avaters.  Unfortunately,  bad  Aveather  on  the  22d,  Avhen  we 
were  again  near  Cape  Resolution,  made  it  impossible  to  verify  this 
possible  discrepancy.  Abnormal  refraction  may  have  throAvn  off  all 
our  observations  of  the  20th  by  12  minutes  of  arc,  but  if  refraction 
was  normal  on  August  20,  the  land  about  Cape  Resolution  was  cer- 
tainly draAvn  in  on  the  chart  too  far  to  the  east. 

From  the  inshore  station  near  Cape  Resolution,  the  ship  ran  south 
for  20  miles  and  then  AA^est  about  25  miles  to  a  point  V/o  miles  south 
of  Hatton  Headland,  Resolution  Island.  At  8.45  p.  m.  a  station  was 
taken  off  the  latter  point,  the  beginning  of  a  line  of  stations  run 
soutliAvard  across  the  eastern  entrance  of  Hudson  Strait.  Through 
the  mist  and  drizzle  at  the  station  off  Hatton  Headland  the  land 
appeared  to  be  mountainous  and  rocky,  but  the  Ioav  clouds  and  the 
bad  visibility  prevented  our  seeing  very  far  back  from  the  Avater's 
edge.  There  Avere  some  small  patches  of  snoAv  in  sheltered  places, 
even  within  one  or  two  hundred  feet  of  sea  level.  The  dim  twilight 
and  the  mist  prevented  us  from  telling  Avhether  or  not  there  was 
much  vegetation  on  the  shore. 

Out  in  Hudson  Strait,  a  feAv  bergs  Avere  drifting  about  strangel}^, 
not  quietly  and  imperceptibly  as  they  do  normally,  but  Avith  notice- 
able turnings  and  rapid  relatiA^e  motions  Avith  respect  to  each  other 
and  to  the  drifting  Marion.  The  agitation  of  the  Avaters  by  strong 
tidal  currents  was  further  evidenced  by  the  peculiar  AvaA^es  that  had 
little  relation  to  the  force  and  direction  of  the  Avind.  These  strange 
waves  or  oA-erfalls  tAvice  struck  the  Marion  resounding  bloAvs  that 
made  spray  dash  up  to  the  bridge  AvindoAvs,  something  Avhich  Avould 
have  never  occurred  in  a  gentle  breeze  Avhile  drifting  in  any  sort  of 
normal  swell  at  sea. 

By  9  p.  m.  the  station  off  Hatton  Headland  Avas  completed,  and 
a  course  was  set  through  the  rain  and  darkness  toAvard  the  Button 


Islands,  30  miles  to  the  southward  off  Cape  Chidley,  Labrador.  It 
was  an  anxious  night  for  those  who  knew  of  the  strong  currents  and 
the  poor  charts,  but  fortunatel}^  the  line  of  stations  was  taken  with- 
out disaster  and  b}''  1.15  a.  m.  on  August  21  the  Marion  was  heading 
eastward  once  more,  bound  for  the  open  sea. 

A  break  in  the  routine  of  the  cruise  now  occurred.  In  obedience 
to  a  radiogram  from  Coast  Guard  headquarters,  a  search  Avas  com- 
menced in  the  waters  east  of  Resolution  Island  for  the  fliers  Hassel 
and  Cramer.  Tlie}^  were  on  a  flight  from  Canada  to  Mount  Evans, 
Greenland,  and  had  not  been  heard  from  since  early  on  August  19, 
when  they  had  reported  themselves  as  about  40  miles  eastward  of 
Hatton  Headland.  Two  full  da3^s  were  devoted  to  a  vain  searcli 
for  these  aviators.  Later  on  we  learned  that  they  had  succeeded 
in  reaching  Greenland  before  losing  their  plane. 

The  21st  was  a  fine  day  with  full  visibility,  but  the  22d  was  marred 
by  moderate  to  fresh  gales  and  rather  rough  to  very  rough  seas.  At 
4.40  a.  m.  on  the  22d,  before  it  had  started  to  bloAv,  the  eastern  side 
of  Resolution  Island  was  seen  again,  this  time  close  aboard.  There 
were  many  stranded  bergs  along  the  rocky  coast,  but  exactly  what 
part  of  the  island  was  sighted  will  never  be  known,,  for  the  storm 
which  came  up  suddenly  at  this  time  ended  the  period  of  good  visi- 
bility and  forced  the  Marion  to  head  offshore.  Late  in  the  afternoon 
the  sk}^  cleared  and  the  wind  moderated  suddenly,  but  only  to  pipe 
up  again  to  a  fresh  gale  from  the  south,  and  to  cloud  over  after  three 
hours  of  moderate  to  strong  breezes  from  the  same  direction.  On  the 
morning  of  August  23,  after  a  night  of  great  pitching  and  rolling  the 
gale  moderated  enabling  speed  to  be  increased  on  our  southerly 
course. 

Visibility  was  so  good  after  the  storm  that  frequent  bearings 
could  be  taken  of  the  rocky  heights  of  the  Button  Islands  and  Cape 
Chidley,  25  miles  to  the  westward.  Inshore  an  unidentified  steamer 
which  was  heading  nortliAvard  looked  very  lonely  and  small  on  the 
wild  empt}^  waters  between  us  and  mountainous  land. 

Half  a  dozen  bergs  and  a  few  growlers  were  sighted  during  the 
day.  According  to  our  observations  the  Button  Islands  and  Cape 
Chidley  seemed  to  be  charted  on  B.  A.  chart  1422.  about  12  miles  to 
the  eastward  of  their  true  position,  but  there  must  have  been  some- 
thing like  unusual  refraction  affecting  our  sights,  for  it  is  almost 
unbelievable  that  these  well-known  places  can  be  so  improperly 
located  on  the  charts  in  use  to-day.  The  charts  on  board  were  evi- 
dently still  far  from  perfect,  however,  for  they  differed  among  them- 
selves. For  instance,  the  eastern  point  of  the  Button  Islands  was 
176°  true  from  Hatton  Headland  on  H.  O.  chart  No.  5380,  while  this 
bearing  was  159°  true  on  B.  A.  chart  Xo.  1422. 

We  had  been  eating  much  wdiale  meat  and  salt  horse  even  before 
leaving  Disko,  and  now,  in  Labrador,  we  hoped  to  catch  or  buy  some 
€od.  We  had  bought  a  saddleback  seal  carcass  at  Ata.  Greenland, 
but  nobody  took  much  of  a  fancy  to  this  food  despite  the  fact  that 
it  is  keenly  relished  by  the  Greenlanders.  Whale  meat  if  hung  in 
the  rigging  for  about  a  Aveek  is  not  at  all  bad,  but  best  of  all  were 
the  steaks  from  the  polar  bears  shot  on  the  pack  ice  of  Davis  Strait. 
Meat,  it  was  observed,  keeps  an  exceedingly  long  time  if  hung  out 
in  the  polar  air.     Both  the  whale  meat  and  the  bear  were  eaten 


38 

three  weeks  after  they  had  been  killed.  The  whale  meat  dried  up 
somewhat  toward  the  last,  but  the  bear  meat  seemed  as  fresh  as 
ever. 

Around  noon  on  August  23  an  attempt  was  made  to  enter  Eclipse 
Harbor,  Labrador,  mainl}^  for  the  purpose  of  getting  fresh  water, 
but  the  innumerable  rocks  and  breakers  sighted  off  the  north  end  of 
Aulalsivik  Island  kept  the  MaHon  from  entering  this  anchorage. 
From  off  it  the  ship  ^tood  to  the  east-southeastward  16  miles  and 
then  ran  southwestward  the  same  distance  into  the  entrance  of  the 
fiord  at  the  southern  end  of  Aulalsivik  Island.  Several  rocks  were 
sighted  near  the  coast.  A  few  of  them  were  uncharted  and  tw^o  were 
not  noticed  until  they  were  ahead  close  aboard.  South  of  the 
sixtieth  parallel  our  sights  showed  the  coast  to  be  charted  close  to 
its  observed  position. 


THE    HIGHEST    PEAKS    OF   NORTH   AMERICA   THAT    ARE    NEAR    THE    ATLANTIC 

COAST 

Figure  28. — The  Marion  is  here  approaching  the  Torngat  Mountains  of  Labrador  in  lati- 
tude 59°  42'  N.  Four  of  the  peaks  are  marlced  on  the  chart  as  between  5,000  and 
6,000  feet  high.  They  support  numerous  tiny  glaciers,  from  which  mountain  streams 
originate.  One  of  these  streams,  flowing  into  the  flord  ahead,  supplied  the  Marion 
with  excellent  water  for  ship's  use. 

About  2  miles  off  the  fiord  entrance  there  was  a  submarine  ridge 
with  its  higher  points  just  reaching  sea  level.  A  few  rocks  marking 
the  crest  of  this  ridge  could  be  seen  along  a  line  following  the  trend 
of  the  coast  to  the  NNW.  and  SSE.  Inshore  the  soundings  deepened 
again,  and  remained  fairly  deep  in  the  fiord.     (See  fig.  44.) 

The  land  w^as  high  and  mountainous  to  the  north  and  south  of  the 
fiord  entrance.  Just  to  the  south  of  it  were  the  four  peaks  of  the 
Torngat  Mountains,  marked  on  the  chart  as  5,000  to  6,000  feet  high. 
(See  fig.  28.)  These  Labrador  mountains  did  not  seem  so  impressive 
as  those  of  North  Greenland,  possibly  because  of  the  absence  of  ice- 
blink behind  them  and  possibly  because  we  were  now  accustomed 
to  seeing  great  mountains  close  to  the  sea. 

It  was  difficult  to  distinguish  the  fiord  entrance  from  off  the  coast, 
but  by  running  at  slow  speed  and  closely  observing  the  shore  it  was 


^ '  MARION  ' '   EXPEDITION    TO   DAVIS   STRAIT   AND   BAFFIN    BAY        39 


at  last  found  and  entered.  Then  a  tortuous  course  inland  between 
the  mountain  walls  was  begun.  The  fiord  was  very  crooked  and  not 
at  all  open  and  crescent  shaped  as  shown  on  the  small-scale  chart 
which  we  used.  (B.  A.  Chart  No.  1422.)  At  times  it  appeared  as 
though  the  head  of 
navigation  had 
been  reached,  but 
always  there  would 
be  a  way  out  around 
the  spurs  and  ridges 
that  projected  into 
the  fiord  from  either 
side.  For  a  long- 
time no  streams 
were  seen,  but  fi- 
nally a  few  tiny 
ones  began  to  ap- 
pear. At  5  p.  m.. 
when  about  T  miles 
in  from  the  en- 
trance, a  large 
brook  was  noted 
rushing  into  the 
fiord  on  the  port 
hand.  It  was  fed 
by  several  small 
glaciers  located 
halfway  u  p  t  h  c 
mountains  on  the 
south  shore. 

The  Marion  wa^ 
anchored  off  i\\v 
stream  in  approxi- 
matelv  59°  40'  N.. 
64°  02'  W.,  and 
preparations  were 
started  for  boating 
water  aboard. 
While  the  boats 
were  being  lowered 
the  gentle  southerly 
breeze  increased 
suddenly  to  gale 
force,  whitening  the 
water,  heeling  the 
ship  over,  and  mak- 
ing it  swing  and 
tug  at  the  anchor 
chain.  As  sud- 
denly as  it  began,  i  ^  i  -  ^  ^ 
the  wind  squallstopped,  but  every  little  while  throughout  the  night 
these  foehns  or  williwaws  rushed  down  the  mountain  slopes  and  tore 
about  the  fiord.  They  buffeted  the  ship  but  did  not  harm  lier  or  her 
boats  which  were  eiigaged  in  bringing  out  fresh  water,     ihe  tiorcl 


\  HANGING  GLACIER  IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE 
TORNGATS 

Figure  29. — While  tbe  Marion  was  taking  on  water  from  a 
mountain  brook,  some  of  tbe  officers  made  a  trip  to  tbe 
glacier  wbicb  formed  its  source.  From  tbe  point  near  tbe 
fiord  wbere  tbis  view  was  taken,  a  2-bour  climb  Avas  neces- 
sary to  reach  tbe  nearest  ice.  Tbe  summer  day  was  warm 
and  pleasant,  but  in  tbe  winter  tbis  uninbabited  country 
is  terribly  cold  and  bleak. 


40 


MARION        EXPEDITION    TO   DAVIS   STRAIT   AND   BAFFIN   BAY 


was  too  constricted  to  allow  much  of  a  sea  to  be  built  up,  and  the 
duration  of  the  blasts  was  too  short  to  cause  the  ship  to  drag  or  to 
blow  off  the  small  boats  very  far.  The  only  damage  done  was  the 
salting  up  of  a  few  open  boatloads  of  water,  which  necessitated  their 
being'emptied  and  filled  up  again  at  the  stream.     The  dry  warmth 

caused  by  the  com- 
pression of  the 
cl  o  w  n-flowing  air 
pervaded  the  whole 
locality,  causing  the 
dry  bulb  to  read  72° 
F.  at  8  p.  m.,  while 
at  the  same  time  the 
wet  bulb  read  only 
55°  F. 

The  greatly  dis- 
turbed local  atmos- 
pheric conditions 
can  be  realized  from 
the  following  ob- 
servation. Despite 
the  dry  heat  of  the 
place,  several  times 
we  saw^  large  snow- 
flakes  falling.  At 
first,  we  did  not  be- 
lieve that  snow 
could  fall  with  the 
thermometer  round 
the  70°  mark,  and 
w^e  supposed  the 
great  white  flakes 
were  some  sort  of 
dow^n  torn  by  the 
wind  from  a  species 
of  plant  ashore. 
When  we  caught  a 
few  of  the  flakes  in 
our  hand  and  saw 
and  felt  them  melt, 
however,  we  soon 
changed  our  opin- 
ion. At  dusk  the 
work  o  f  w^atering 
ship  was  suspended 
and  all  hands  en- 
joyed a  good  night's 
i-est  after  the  stren- 
uous 10-day  run  from  Godhavn,  Greenland,  the  last  place  where  the 
anchor  had  been  down. 

The   morning   of   August   24  was   devoted   to   watering   ship,  to 
striking  the  last  barreled  oil  into  the  fuel  tanks,  and  to  preparing 


THE  REMNANTS  OF  A  ONCE  EAKGEIi   STP.EAM   UE   ICE 

Figure  30. — We  climbed  over  several  former  end  moraines 
and  finally  got  to  a  last  steep  slope  of  rock  fragments 
which  led  directly  to  the  ice.  The  heights  behind  this 
small  glacier  are  among  the  highest  of  the  Torngat  Moun- 
tains of  northern  Labrador. 


for 


the  next  long  run. 


Some  of  the  officers  started  out  after  break- 


fast  to  walk  up  to  one  of  the  hanging  gUiciers  that  fed  the  near-by 
stream.  The  day  was  mostly  cloudy,  but  calm  and  pleasant,  with 
veiT  good  visibility.  There  were  many  plants  and  flowers  and  quite 
a  few  blueberries  along  the  shore. 

It  appeared  but  a  short  distance  up  to  the  glaciers,  but  it  took 
about  two  hours  of  steady  climbing  to  reach  the  ice.  The  ground 
became  rockier  and  rockier  after  the  fiord  was  left,  while  the  vege- 
tation became  scantier  and  scantier.  Finalh^  the  way  was  over 
a  surface  made  up  of  nothing  but  angular  rock  fragments  of  all 
sizes.  Their  source  was  undoubtedly  the  enormous  cHffs  that  rose 
above  the  small  glaciers  ahead. 

Just  before  reaching  the  ice,  several  old  end  moraines  had  to  be 
scaled.  In  some  places  glacial  lakes  not  much  larger  than  puddles 
were  imprisoned  between  these  moraines.     Finally  a  last  steep  slope 


TIIK    ■•  MARION  "   IS   DWARFED   BY   HER    SURROUNDINGS 

Figure  ol.- — The  mouth  of  the  stream  from  which  water  was  being  boated  is  directly 
over  the  officer  standing  in  the  right  foreground.  The  Marion  is  anchored  a  little 
to  the  left  of  the  stream's  mouth.  Across  the  fiord  are  the  heights  of  the  southern 
end  of  Aulalsivik  Island.  Labrador.  Note  how  the  stream,  which  is  hacked  up  into 
a  tiny  lake  in  the  left  foreground,  disappears  into  the  crevices  among  the  loose  rocks. 

of  rock  fragments  Avas  ascended,  and  the  melting  ice  of  the  nearest 
glacier  was  reached.  Views  taken  during  this  excursion  into  the 
Torngats  are  shown  in  Figures  29-33. 

The  walk  back  to  the  ship  was  accomplished  without  incident  and 
at  1.35  p.  m.  the  Marlon  got  under  wa}^  and  stood  eastward  toward 
the  sea.  The  country  about  the  fiord  just  south  of  Aulalsivik  Island 
is  a  real  wilderness.  No  trace  of  human  habitation  or  visit  could  be 
found.  This  was  in  contrast  to  all  the  other  northern  places  visited, 
for  everywhere  else  at  least  a  few  people  were  seen. 

Before  leaving  the  fiord  an  oceanographic  station  was  taken. 
Numerous  fathometer  soundings  were  recorded  in  the  fiord  and  off 
its  entrance.  (See  fig.  44.)  Attempts  to  catch  fish  were  made  with 
hand  lines,  but  none  of  them  met  success,  possibW  because  we  did 
not  have  the  right  kind  of  bait. 
68165—32 4 


42 


MARION        EXPEDITION    TO   DAVIS   STRAIT   AND   BAFFIN   BAY 


A  small  berg  with  peaks  about  25  feet  high  was  sighted  at  the 
fiord  entrance  just  inshore  of  the  submarine  ridge  that  runs  along 
the  coast.  It  was  approached  by  the  Marlon  for  the  purpose  of 
obtaining  ice.  The  sea  was  smooth,  except  for  a  very  slight  swell, 
so  it  was  decided  to  run  alongside  the  berg  Avith  the  ship,  instead  of 
sending  out  a  boat  to  get  the  ice. 

The  Marion  got  alongside  a  sheer  wall  of  the  berg  about  15  feet 
high,  and  one  of  the  men  on  the  spar  deck  began  cutting  at  the  ice 
opposite  his  head  with  a  fire  ax.  Whether  the  blows  of  the  ax 
or  the  jarring  of  the  berg  by  the  gentle  rolling  ship  was  the  cause 
can  not  be  told,  but  in  a  very  few  seconds  a  loud  crackling  was 
heard,  and  the  berg  calved  off  several  growlers  weighing  a  number 
of  tons  each.  There  was  a  great  scampering  among  the  ice  gatherers 
as  the  heavy  masses  fell  down  and  disappeared  with  a  roar  between 


THE  PRESENT  LOWER  LIMIT  OF  THE   ICE 

Figure  32. — Another  view  of  the  fiord  between  Aulalsivik  Island  and  the  highest  peaks 
of  the  Torngat  Mountains  just  to  the  south.  Three  tiny  lakelets  filled  with  melt- 
water  from  the  glacier  are  visible  in  the  middle  distance.     Taken  on  August  24,   1928. 

the  ship  and  the  berg.  The  Marion  was  pushed  from  the  berg  bodily 
by  the  ice  as  it  fell,  and  was  pushed  away  farther  as  the  new  growlers 
rose  to  the  sea  surface  after  their  sudden  plunge. 

Two  stations  were  taken  to  the  eastward  of  the  fiord  just  south 
of  Aulalsivik  Island  on  the  afternoon  of  August  24.  Then  a  course 
southward  was  run  to  a  point  off  Ramah,  Labrador.  Here,  less  than 
7  miles  northeast  of  Mount  Blow-me-dowm,  was  started  the  western 
end  of  a  series  of  stations  extending  450  miles  to  the  Greenland  coast 
off  Ivigtut. 

Nine  bergs  were  sighted  in  the  cold  current  between  Aulalsivik 
Island  and  60  miles  east  of  Ramah,  Labrador.  Undoubtedly  several 
more  would  have  been  seen  if  the  greater  part  of  this  run  liad  not 
been  made  at  night. 

In  general,  good  weather  was  experienced  on  the  run  east-north- 
eastward across  Davis  Strait.    The  second  day  out  was  overcast  with 


^'  MARION  "   EXPEDITION    TO   DAVIS   STRAIT   AND   BAFFIN    BAY        43 

some  rain.  Seven  hours  of  strong  breezes  and  gales  from  the  north 
blew  during  the  evening  of  this  day,  a  fine  display  of  aurora  borealis 
following  the  gale  and  rain. 

The  next  da}^  was  mostly  clear  and  warm,  considering  the  latitude, 
for  the  dry-bulb  thermometer  varied  from  4G°  to  53°  F.  The  next 
day  out,  August  27,  was  smooth  with  partly  cloudy  to  overcast 
weather.  Air  temperatures  from  48^  to  52°  F.,  were  enjoyed  due 
to  the  continued  presence  of  surface  water  of  47°  to  49°  F. 

August  28  was  overcast  with  some  fog  and  rain.  Light  east-south- 
easterly breezes  were  the  prevailing  winds.  The  Marlon  entered  42° 
surface  water  near  the  Greenland  coast  early  in  the  morning  and 
had,  therefore,  lower  air  temperatures  than  on  the  preceding  days. 
At  7.30  a.  m.  the  fog  ended,  enabling  a  view  to  be  had  of  the  moun- 
tains of  the  Greenland  west  coast  between  Gl°  and  G2°  X. 


ROCKS   FROM   THE    HEIGHTS   ABOVE 

Figure  So. — When  we  got  upon  the  ice  surface  of  the  small  glacier  among  the  Torugats, 
the  source  of  the  enormous  piles  of  rock  fragments  of  all  sizes  over  which  we  had  been 
climbing  became  very  plain.  They  had  fallen  down  from  the  cliffs  surrounding  the 
ice  on  three  sides.  Once  on  the"  glacier  they  were  slowly  carried  downward  to  be 
deposited  during  the  course  of  time  at  its  lower  end. 

At  11.20  a.  m.  the  last  station  of  the  line  was  occupied  and  the 
Marion  stood  to  the  eastward  toward  Arsuk  Fiord,  having  obtained 
many  soundings  at  and  between  stations  in  the  deep  water  of  Davis 
Strait.  The  only  trouble  experienced  with  the  oceanographic  ap- 
paratus on  the  run  from  Labrador  was  the  loss  of  the  bottom  sampler 
at  a  very  deep  station  on  August  26. 

Considerable  difficulty  was  experienced  in  identifying  the  different 
peaks  and  islands  along  the  Greenland  coast  due  to  the  impossibility 
of  getting  sights  through  the  cloud  blanket  to  locate  the  correct 
position  of  the  ship.  At  noon  it  was  possible  to  get  sun  sights,  how- 
ever, and  it  was  found  that  the  Marion  Avas  about  2  miles  off  the 
southeast  corner  of  Sermersut  Island.  B}^  1.30  p.  m.  the  ship  was 
between  the  sharp  peak  of  L^manak  Island  and  Kajartalik.  From 
the  latter  island  the  ship  stood  to  the  eastward  into  the  narroAv  waters 
between  Arsuk  Island  and  Mount  Kungnat. 


44        ' '  MARION  ' '   EXPEDITI0:N^    to    DAVIS    STRAIT    AND    BAFFIN    BAY 

At  2.40  p.  m.  the  extremely  narrow  passage  north  of  the  eastern  end 
of  Arsuk  Island  was  negotiated.  This  passage  is  less  than  40  yards 
wide  at  its  most  constricted  point,  and  so  shallow  that  many  details 
of  the  rocky  bottom  and  sides  could  be  seen  from  the  ship.  From 
2.45  to  3.15  p.  m.  the  Marion  proceeded  up  the  main  branch  of  Arsuk 
Fiord  toward  Ivigtut.  Depths  greater  than  270  fathoms  were  ob- 
tained with  the  fathometer  on  this  run,  although  the  fiord  is  only  II/2 
miles  wide.  (See  fig.  45.)  At  3.25  p.  m.  the  Mcmon  moored  along- 
side the  Norwegian  steamship  WagJamJ,  which  was  close  to  the  sea 
wall  at  Ivigtut  loading  cryolite  for  Philadelphia,  Pa. 


THE   LARGEST  AND  RICHEST   MINE   IN  ALL  GREENLAND 

Figure  34. — At  Ivigtut,  Greenland,  we  saw  this  great  open-pit  cryolite  mine.  It  has 
been  in  operation  for  many  decades,  yet  it  is  still  the  only  mine  in  the  world  from 
which  the  mineral  cryolite  is  obtained  in  quantity.  The  workings  are  but  a  stone's 
throw  from  the  fiord,  and  the  floor  of  the  mine  is  now  far  below  sea  level.  Winter  and 
summer,  the  mineral  is  mined.  The  taxes  which  the  Danish  Government  obtains 
from  the  mining  company  go  far  toward  paying  the  administrative  costs  of  the  Colony 
of  Greenland. 

After  the  local  government  agent  had  passed  upon  the  health  of  the 
crew  and  the  usual  formalities  had  been  complied  with,  liberty  was 
granted  to  visit  the  cryolite  mine  and  the  settlement  surrounding  it. 
We  Avere  astonished  to  see  the  great  open  mine  pit  and  comfortable 
dwellings  of  the  200  Danes  who  get  out  the  cryolite  with  the  most 
up-to-date  methods.  Due  to  the  very  good  wages  paid  the  workers, 
the  type  of  men  working  in  the  mine  is  unusually  high.  The  miners 
come  over  from  Denmark  for  limited  ]:)eriods,  and  there  is  always  a 
large  waiting  list  of  applicants,  from  which  only  the  best  and  most 
deserving  men  are  selected.  No  Greenlanders  were  about  at  Ivigtut, 
because  none  are  allowed  to  live  near  by.  There  were  only  two 
women  on  the  reservation,  the  Avife  of  the  chief  engineer  and  the 
housekeeper   of   the    director   of   the   mining   company.     We   were 


EXPEDITIOX    TO   DAVIS   STEAIT   AND   BAFFIN   BAY        45 

royally  received  by  the  latter  oentlenian,  Avliose  house  up  there  in 
that  wild  country  rivals  in  its  sumptuousness  a  millionaire's  in  the 
United  States.  The  niinin<r  company,  we  were  told,  is  a  very  rich 
one  that  pays  its  few  stockholders  a  handsome  ])rofit.  The  taxes  paid 
by  it  to  the  Danish  (lovernment  assist  in  defrayin<r  the  administra- 
tive costs  of  runniiiii:  (Jreenland  and  permit  the  maintenance  of  many 
services  for  the  education  and  iuiprovement  of  the  Greenlanders. 

The  Marion  was  inspected  with  much  interest  by  the  Danes,  the 
live  bear,  Marian,  proving  the  center  of  attraction.  In  the  evening 
the  ship's  officers  were  entertained  at  a  banquet  in  the  clubrooms  of 
the  recreation  center  ashore.  A  pleasant  time  was  had  conversing 
with  the  mine  officials,  and  much  was  learned  about  ice  and  other 
conditions  in  the  southwest  corner  of  Greenland.     Figure  34  shows 


A  SOUTH  GREENLAND  ICE  STREAM 

Figure  35. — On  August  29,  1928,  the  Marion  took  on  board  a  party  of  officials  from  the 
Ivigtut  cryolite  mine  and  cruised  up  to  the  head  of  Arsuli  Fiord.  Many  fathometer 
soundings  were  talsen  on  this  run.  After  a  distance  of  about  10  miles  had  been 
traversed,  further  progress  was  blocked  by  this  glacier  which  discharges  into  the  fiord 
from  the  inland  ice. 

a  picture  of  the  ciyolite  mine  that  was  presented  to  an  officer  of 
the  Marion  by  one  of  Ivigtut's  amateur  photographers. 

At  9.15  the  next  morning  the  Marion  left  Ivigtut  for  a  trip  up 
Arsuk  Fiord  with  a  group  of  mine  officials  on  board.  The  fiord  is 
deep  and  apparently  free  from  hidden  dangers  to  navigation  all  the 
wa}^  up  to  the  glacier  which  runs  into  it  from  the  inland  ice.  The 
sea  front  of  this  glacier  was  about  10  sea  miles  above  Ivigtut  at  the 
time  of  the  Marion^ s  visit.     (See  fig.  45.) 

There  was  a  small  gravel  flat  along  the  south  bank  of  the  fiord  off 
the  glacier  end.  Close  to  this  morainal  deposit  the  Marion  anchored 
in  14  fathoms  of  water  at  10.30  a.  m.,  August  29. 

A  party  from  the  ship  ascended  the  glacier  some  distance,  walking 
oyer  the  smoothly  undulating  dead  ice  behind  the  gravel  flat.  The 
views  contained  in  Figures  35-38  were  obtained  at  this  ,time.  The 
glacier  had  an  ice  cavern  extending  in  from  a  vertical  terminal  wall.. 


46 


MARION  ' '  EXPEDITION    TO   DAVIS   STRAIT   AND   BAFFIN   BAY 


This  cave  was  similar  to  the  one  seen  500  miles  farther  northward  in 
the  end  of  the  glacier  at  Port  Quervain.  It  was  here  in  a  very  active 
part  of  the  glacier  close  to  the  north  side  of  the  fiord.  On  that  side 
the  glacier  produced  numerous  small  icebergs  and  growlers.  During 
the  Marion'' s  stay  near  Ivigtut  a  few  of  the  former  were  seen  drifting 
down  the  fiord  toward  the  open  sea.  The  bergs  from  Arsuk  Fiord, 
however,  are  so  small  that  such  as  succeed  in  reaching  Davis  Strait 
usually  melt  in  the  coastal  waters  off  southwest  Greenland  before 
getting  very  far. 

The  active  north  side  of  the  glacier  was  extremely  rough  and  cre- 
vassed,  in  marked  contrast  to  the  unbroken  ice  surface  without  a 
vertical  terminal  wall  which  lay  just  behind  the  gravel  flat.  Figures 
36  and  37  show  the  characteristics  of  the  two  sides  of  the  glacier. 
These  views  also  show  evidence  of  recent  scourino^  action  on  the  rocks 


THE   SOUTH   SIDE   OF  THE   GLACIEK   NEAR  IVIGTUT  IS  DEAD 

Figure  36. — We  found  a  muddy  stream  from  under  tbe  ice  flowing  across  the  gravel  flat 
at  the  south  side  of  the  liead  of  Arsuk  B^'iord.  The  ice  above  the  gravel  flat  does  not 
move  appreciably.  It  is  easy  to  walk  over,  though  it  has  a  few  dangerous  circular 
holes  in  it  which  extend  down  vertically  to  the  roaring  waters  of  the  subglacial  stream. 

just  above  the  present  ice  level,  which  would  indicate  that  the  latter 
may  have  been  considerably  higher  quite  recently.  At  that  time  the 
glacier  probably  extended  farther  down  the  fiord  toward  Ivigtut 
than  it  does  to-day. 

At  12.45  p.  m.  the  ship  got  under  way  and  stood  seaward  past 
waterfalls,  bird  rookeries,  and  mountains,  anchoring  off  Ivigtut  at  2 
p.  m.  The  weather,  which  had  been  overcast  but  calm  and  pleasant 
all  morning,  became  rainy  and  blustery  during  the  run  down  the 
fiord.  Great  gusts  of  wind  began  to  shake  the  Marion  at  her  anchor- 
age near  Ivigtut's  seawall.  In  spite  of  the  bad  weather,  a  line  was 
run  ashore  and  the  Mariovh  bow  was  hauled  in  close  enough  to  per- 
mit Diesel  oil  from  the  tank  of  the  mining  company  to  be  pumped 
aboard  through  a  hose.  In  addition  to  the  oil,  large  quantities  of 
provisions  to  supplement  the  Mamon's  diminishing  supplies  were  also 
furnished  the  ship  by  the  mining  company. 


MAEIOX         EXPEDITIOX    TO    DAVIS    STRAIT   AXD   BAFFIX    BAY 


47 


At  6.2U  p.  m.,  after  the  mine's  doctor  had  dressed  a  minor  injury 
to  the  hand  of  one  of  the  officers,  the  J/rtWa;?  <rot  under  way.  Various 
courses  were  stood  through  the  now  shrieking  gale  toward  the  nar- 
rows north  of  Arsuk  Island.  Kain  s([nalls  made  visibility  so  low 
that  at  times  neither  shore  was  discernible  from  the  center  of  the 
iy2  mile  wide  fiord.  Nevertheless,  the  entrance  to  the  narrows  was 
located  and  their  passage  was  again  successfully  made. 

Continuing  on  3  miles  farther  seaward,  a  sheltered  spot  was  found 
in  Ekaluit  anchorage,  where  the  Marlon  anchored  at  7.23  p.  m.  At 
this  uninhabited  spot,  under  the  4,450-foot  height  of  Mount  Kungnat, 
the  Marlon  remained  waiting  almost  three  days  for  the  barometer  to 
rise.  It  was  deemed  inadvisable  to  run  for  Cape  Farewell  and 
thence  across  Davis  Strait  in  the  face  of  the  unsettled  weather  con- 


rKKMlXAL    WALL 


Figure  37. — We  ascended  some  distance  over  the  smooth  stagnant  ice  behind  the  south 
edge  of  the  glacier  above  Ivigtut.  This  view  looks  toward  the  rough  ice  of  the  center 
and  north  portions,  which  is  rapidly  moving  seaward  and  calving  into  Arsuk  Fiord. 
As  at  Port  Quervain,  the  glacier  here  had  an  ice  cavern  in  its  vertical  terminal  wall. 
This  is  doubtless  the  seaward  end  of  the  tube  of  a  subglacial  stream. 

ditions  that  prevailed.  The  time  was  spent  watering  ship  and  pre- 
paring everything  for  the  long  line  of  stations  that  were  to  be  taken 
to  the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle.  While  at  Ekaluit  anchorage  "  working  " 
parties  from  the  crew  picked  several  bushels  of  the  delicious  blue- 
berries that  grew  in  the  thick  mat  of  low  vegetation  which  covered 
the  ground  in  all  favorable  locations.  These  berries  were  served  to 
all  hands  for  many  days.  Besides  being  eaten  raw  with  sugar  and 
tinned  milk,  they  Avere  made  into  pies  and  puddings  that  proved  a 
splendid  addition  to  the  fare. 

Other  members  of  the  crew  jigged  for  codfish  in  the  near-by  waters. 
In  the  latter  occupation  they  were  joined  by  several  natives  in 
kyaks  from  the  village  of  Arsuk,  situated  about  3  miles  seaward  from 
our  anchorage.  Considerable  rain  fell  on  the  ship,  but  the  moun- 
tains, down  to  a  few  hundred  feet  above  sea  level,  were  seen  when 
the  clouds  lifted  to  be  covered  bv  a  fall  of  wet  snow. 


48 

At  noon  on  September  1  the  barometer  registered  the  low  value  of 
29.16  inches,  after  which  it  commenced  to  rise  slowly.  At  1.20  p.  m. 
the  ship  got  under  way  and  stood  to  sea  and  then  southeastward 
toAvard  Cape  Farewell.  Mostly  cloudy  but  moderate  weather  was 
enjoyed  throughout  the  175-mile  run  to  the  southern  point  of  Green- 
land. There  was  some  fog  over  the  cold  89°  water  encountered  south 
of  the  sixtieth  parallel.  A  few  large  bergs  were  seen  but  there  was 
no  pack  ice  in  the  cold  current  coming  around  Cape  Farewell  from 
East  Greenland. 

From  6  p.  m.  to  6.24  p.  m.  on  September  2,  1928,  the  Marion  lay 
stopped  6  miles  off  the  outer  islets  and  12  miles  west  of  Cape  Fare- 
well, taking  the  first  station  of  the  620-mile  line  of  them  that  was  to 
end  off  the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle.     Just  after  leaving  this  station,  the 


WHERE    GLACIAL    ICE    MEETS    THE    SEA 


SOUTH    GREENLAND 


Figure  38. — The  Marion  is  at  anchor  off  the  gravel  flat  at  the  south  side  of  the  head  of 
Arsuk  Fiord.  Many  small  pieces  of  ice  have  been  stranded  by  the  receding  tide.  In 
the  deep  water  near  the  center  of  the  fiord,  several  large  pieces  of  ice  which  have  just 
been  calved  from  the  active  north  side  of  the  glacier  are  drifting  westward  toward 
the  open  waters  of  Davis  Strait. 

clouds  broke  away  to  the  westward,  causing  the  low  sun  to  light  up 
brilliantly  the  mighty  peaks  of  the  southern  tip  of  Greenland,  the 
Cape  Horn  of  the  north.  The  air  was  so  clear  that  these  peaks  were 
outlined  with  unearthly  sharpness  against  the  dark-gray  eastern  sky. 
There  Avere  dozens  of  them  visible,  rising  one  above  the  other  with 
extreme  Avildness.  Never  before  had  we  seen  such  sharp  alpine  horns 
and  pinnacles.  The  bright  colors  of  the  bare  rock  contrasted  sharply 
with  the  radiant  whiteness  of  the  snow  fields  and  snow  patches,  as  it 
did  with  the  gray  shadows  of  the  chasms  and  the  still  darker  back- 
ground of  the  steely  sky.  Off  the  coast  in  front  of  the  mountains 
was  a  line  of  black  wave-washed  rocks  and  islets,  while  between  the 
shore  and  us  lay  the  uneasy  surface  of  the  cold,  blue  sea. 

Five  and  a  half  days  were  required  to  make  the  run  to  Cape 
Bauld,  the  northern  tip  of  Newfoundland.  Twenty-eight  stations 
were    occupied,    and   many    deep    soundings    were    taken    with    the 


i  i 


MAEIOX  ' '   EXPEDITION    TO   DAVIS   STRAIT   AND   BAFFIN    BAY       49 


fathometer,  some  of  the  latter  in  the  center  of  the  basin  exceeding 
2,000  fathoms  in  depth.  On  three  (Uiys  the  wind  attained  <>ale  force, 
showino-  that  the  end  of  the  sunnner  was  at  hand.  As  on  our  other 
southern  crossino-s,  however,  air  and  surface  water  temperatures 
observed  in  the  center  of  Davis  Strait  were  still  around  50°  F. 

The  first  icebergs  sighted  after  leaving  the  cold  water  about  Cape 
Farewell  were  encountered  on  September  7,  about  70  miles  east  of 
Belle  Isle.  Almost  all  of  the  7th  w^as  spent  searching  for  an  "  ice 
island  ''  several  miles  long,  recently  reported  by  different  passing 
steamers  as  being  in  that  vicinity.  Xo  trace  of  such  an  unprecedently 
large  iceberg  for  North  Atlantic  waters  was  found.  The  largest 
piece  of  ice  that  could  be  located  was  a  tabular  berg  about  50  feet 
high  and,  roughly,  800  feet  square. 

Upon  reaching  Belle  Isle  on  the  evening  of  September  7  we  decided 
that  it  would  be  best,  on  account  of  the  stormy  w^eather,  to  return  via 
the  east  coast  of  Newfoundland,  stopping  at  St.  John's  for  supplies 
and  recreation.  En  route  it  was  further  decided  to  run  two  addi- 
tional lines  of  stations  off  the  eastern  shelf  of  Newfoundland. 
Although  these  stations  were  not  called  for  in  the  original  plans 
of  the  expedition  they  were  deemed  useful  for  connecting  the  investi- 
gations, of  the  Marion  expedition  with  the  previous  oceanographic 
work  of  the  international  ice  patrol  to  the  southward.  The  entire 
work  was  completed  on  September  11  when  we  took  the  last  station  5 
miles  off  St.  John's. 

The  afternoon  of  September  8  was  spent  running  southward  along 
the  northeast  coast  of  Newfoundland  past  the  Gray  Islands.  "When 
about  23  miles  east  of  Horse  Island  a  station  was  taken.  This  was 
the  first  of  the  225-mile  line  of  them  that  was  run  to  the  eastward 
over  the  1,000-fathom  curve.  Excellent  weather  was  experienced  on 
this  run. 

The  last  line  of  stations,  which  ran  in  a  southeasterly  direction 
toward  St.  John's,  was  started  on  September  10.  A  short  and  sharp 
September  gale  held  up  the  work  somewhat,  but  St.  John's  was 
reached  safely  at  3.15  p.  m.  on  September  11,  1928. 

St.  John's  is  a  foreign  port  and  nearly  1.000  miles  from  the  Mario7i''s 
base  at  New  London,  Conn.,  but  the  sight  of  it  caused  much  rejoicing. 
It  marked  the  end  of  our  present  arduous  labors  for  the  cause  of 
science  and  a  return  to  real  civilization  once  more. 

There  had  been  only  four  -days  in  the  past  nine  weeks  that  the 
Marion  had  not  been  underway  at  sea.  The  nature  of  the  expedition 
had  demanded,  of  course,  that  we  keep  driving  rather  intensively 
most  of  the  time  in  order  to  complete  the  work  laid  out  in  the  few 
weeks  before  bad  weather  and  danger  from  ice  would  make  it  im- 
possible. The  work  of  proceeding  from  station  to  station  and  there 
repeating  the  same  operations  over  and  over  again  had  begun  to 
tell  on  the  spirit  of  the  crew.  The  station  work,  coming  as  it  does 
night  and  day,  gale  and  calm,  rain  and  shine,  is  no  child's  play  either 
for  those  on  deck  or  those  at  the  motors.  It  requires  alertness  and 
knowledge  of  a  ship  to  hold  her  up  at  a  station  on  a  dark  night  with 
the  wind  howling  and  3,000  meters  of  wire  out.  Under  such  handi- 
capping conditions  as  these,  we  had  seen  whole  series  of  observations 
down  to  3,100  meters  repeated  three  times,  just  because  waves,  or 
other  patience-trying  accidents  had  caused  the  premature  tripping  of 


50 

the  instruments.  There  Avas  little  opportunity  for  amusement  or 
diversion  on  a  small  vessel  like  the  Marion^  so  it  is  small  wonder  that 
during  the  last  month  we  had  sometimes  detected  long  faces  on  many 
of  the  men  who  were  most  eager,  early  in  July,  to  seek  Arctic  romance 
and  adventure. 

The  American  consul  at  St.  John's  did  his  utmost  to  help  us  after 
our  arrival.  Everyone  we  met,  in  fact,  was  extremely  kind  and 
cordial.  The  commanding  officer  made  official  calls  on  the  governor 
and  the  ma3^or.  Fresh  Avater  and  stores  were  taken  aboard.  Hun- 
dreds of  people  came  doAvn  to  the  wharf  where  the  Marion  was 
secured,  and  once  more  the  caged  polar  bear,  Marion,  proved  a  center 
of  attraction. 

At  4  p.  m.  on  September  12,  after  a  one-day  stay,  the  Marion 
departed  from  St.  John's  and  headed  southward.  Full  speed  was 
rung  up  on  both  motors,  enabling  us  to  round  Cape  Kace  by  10.30 
p.  m.  Once  past  this  headland,  the  Marion  was  steered  toward  the 
west  and  home.  Fine  weather  continued  on  the  morning  of  the  13th, 
but  during  the  afternoon  there  was  fog  and  rain.  Throughout  most 
of  the  14th  and  15th  the  ship  ran  before  a  northeast  gale.  Speed 
Avas  never  slackened,  and  Avitli  all  four  sails  set  and  straining  the 
noAv  lightly  loaded  ship  rolled  and  tAvisted,  steadily  covering  the 
tedious  miles. 

About  noon  on  September  16  Nantucket  Sound  Avas  entered.  It 
was  very  good  to  feel  the  Avarm  land  breezes  and  to  see  the  green 
shores  of  the  United  States  ao^ain.  At  4  p.  m.  the  Marion  tied 
up  to  the  steamboat  Avharf  at  Vineyard  Haven,  Mass.,  the  home 
of  the  commanding  officer.  While  he  Avas  ashore  in  the  evening 
croAvds  of  summer  visitors  and  island  residents  came  doAA^n  to  look 
at  the  ship. 

On  September  17  many  visitors  Avere  shoAvn  about  on  board.  The 
public-school  children  Avere  marched  doAvn  by  classes.  After  look- 
ing at  the  bear  and  the  various  scientific  instruments,  each  class 
Avas  told  of  the  trip  through  the  northland  and  shoAvn  an  imposing 
array  of  souvenirs  that  hacl  been  obtained  in  the  land  of  the  Eskimo. 

The  night  of  September  17  Avas  spent  running  to  the  westward. 
At  6.25  a.  m.  on  September  18,  1928,  the  Marion  moored  to  the 
State  pier  in  Ncav  London,  Conn.,  her  home  station.  The  intensiA^e 
73-day  cruise  to  the  Arctic  Avas  finally  ended. 

The  bear  in  the  Avell-strengthened  bear  cage  aft  Avas  shipped  by  ex- 
press to  the  National  Zoo  at  Washington,  D.  C,  and  the  scientific  in- 
struments were  dismantled  and  put  in  storage  ashore.  In  a  few  days 
all  the  extra  personnel  had  been  transferred  and  the  ship  Avas  ready 
for  her  regular  service  again. 

The  Marion  proved  ideal  for  the  Avork  and  could  not  have  been 
better  if  especially  constructed  for  the  expedition.  She  is  a  fine  sea 
boat,  capable  of  operating  almost  anyAvhere  in  the  Avorld.  The 
fact  that  not  once  in  all  her  cruising  in  the  Arctic,  thousands  of  miles 
from  machine  shops  and  supplies,  had  there  been  a  breakdown  of  her 
motors,  speaks  eloquently  for  the  reliability  of  the  machinery  installa- 
tion. The  Hill-Diesel,  although  heavily  taxed  Avith  furnishing  power 
for  the  Avinches  at  every  station,  never  faltered.  The  Delco  generator 
also  functioned  Avell,  but  Avhen  Ave  got  started  on  the  lines  of  stations 
we  found  the  extra  output  from  the  Hill  Avas  sufficient  to  keep  the 


MAEIOX  "   EXPEDITION    TO   DAVIS   STRAIT   AND   BAFFIX    BAY        51 


Figure  39. — Track  chart  of  the  Marion  Expedition  cruise 


52 

banks  of  batteries  charged.  The  Delco  was  run,  therefore,  only 
intermittently.  The  most  frequent  mechanical  troubles  were  with  the 
oceanographic  apparatus  and  the  most  serious  of  these  difficulties 
have  already  been  described. 

The  Marion  cruised  a  total  distance  of  8,100  sea  miles,  or  farther 
than  from  New  York  to  Sydney,  Australia.  The  motors  expended 
14.000  gallons  of  oil,  the  rate  of  consumption  being  1.5  gallons  per 
mile  on  one  motor  at  an  average  speed  of  6  knots  and  2.3  gallons  per 
mile  Avith  tAvo  motors  at  8.7  knots.  The  survey  covered  that  450,000 
square  sea-mile  area  of  ocean  lying  between  Greenland  and  North 
America  which  is  situated  between  St.  John's  and  the  seventieth  par- 
allel of  north  latitude.  A  total  of  191  stations  were  taken,  at  Avhich 
about  2,000  observations  of  temperature  and  salinity  Avere  made.  All 
of  the  tests  of  salinity  Avere  made  immediately  on  board  by  means 
of  electric  salinometers.  The  fathometer  registered  1,700  depths  for 
chart  record  and  several  times  that  number  in  actual  practice. 

The  data  the  Marlon  had  obtained  during  the  course  of  her  special 
duties  Avere  noAv  ready  for  scientific  analysis.  Although  her  northern 
adventures  were  all  over,  the  tale  of  them  recorded  in  part  in  the 
foregoing  pages  will  live  long  in  the  memories  of  her  complement, 
whatever  may  be  their  future  duties  and  Avherever  they  may  go. 


Chapter  II 
THE  BATHYMETRY 

INTRODUCTION 

Detailed  knowledge  concerning  the  depth  of  ocean  basins  and 
other  large  bodies  of  water  is  valuable  to  two  classes  of  people : 
Those  concerned  with  the  navigation  of  ships  and  those  who,  like 
the  geologist  and  geographer,  desire  to  learn  more  facts  about  the 
earth.  There  is  little  sea-borne  commerce  in  the  Davis  Strait  area, 
so  the  bathymetrical  information  contained  in  this  bulletin  will 
prove  of  but  slight  practical  value  to  most  mariners  of  to-day.  though 
new  discoveries  and  new  northern  developments  in  the  future  may 
cause  it  to  be  of  more  value  to  them  at  some  later  date.  On  the 
other  hand  the  detailed  depth  values  discussed  here  should  prove 
of  considerable  interest  to  geological  and  geographical  workers, 
especially  to  those  connected  with  the  field  of  oceanography. 

Dozens  of  expeditions  of  discovery  and  rescue  have  traversed  the 
Davis  Strait  area,  and  a  varying  number  of  commercial  vessels  have 
frequented  it  annually  for  centuries.  It  is  astonishing,  in  view  of 
this,  how  few  in  number  are  the  sounding  values  which  appear  on 
the  charts,  and  what  great  areas  exist  between  Labrador  and  Green- 
land in  which,  apparently,  prior  to  the  year  1928,  no  sounding  was 
ever  taken.  Before  the  development  of  sonic  depth-finding  methods 
a  great  expenditure  of  time  and  trouble  was  necessary  to  obtain  good 
soundings  in  deep  water.  This  fact  probably  explains  the  lack  of 
detailed  bathymetrical  knowledge  of  the  Davis  Strait  area  which 
existed  prior  to  the  time  of  the  Marion  Expedition. 

DESCRIPTION   OF  APPARATUS   AND   METHODS 

The  Marion  was  equipped  with  a  commercial  echo  sounding  device 
of  the  same  type  as  those  used  on  the  international  ice-patrol  vessels 
since  the  beginning  of  1928.  II:  was  manufactured  by  the  Submarine 
Signal  Corporation,  of  Boston,  Mass.,  and  was  called  a  "  fathometer." 
(See  figs.  40  and  41.)  This  instrument  Avas  capable  of  instantly 
showing  the  depth  of  water  up  to  nearly  100  fathoms  by  the  flashing 
of  a  red  light  opposite  the  proper  depth  value  on  a  circular  scale 
marked  in  fatlioms.  It  was  possible  to  make  an  easy  adjustment 
which  would  slow  down  the  apparatus  to  one-sixth  speed.  This  ad- 
justment automatically  cut  out  the  red  light  and  threw  in  a  steady 
white  light  on  the  disk  moving  past  the  depth  scale.  After  this  was 
accomplished  with  the  aid  of  ear  phones  to  detect  the  echoes  returning 
from  the  sea  bottom,  the  apparatus  could  be  used  to  measure  the 
depth  of  water  up  to  a  maximum,  under  favorable  conditions,  of 
over  2.000  fathoms. 

53 


54       ' '  MARION  ' '  EXPEDITION   TO   DAVIS   STRAIT   AND   BAFFIN   BAY 

By  the  above  two  methods  the  Marlon  recorded  some  1,700  echo 
souiidino-s  in  the  Baffin  Bay-Davis  Strait  region  betAveen  July  19  and 
September  11,  1928.  These  soundings  were  all  made  along  the  track 
indicated  on  Figure  39.    Such  a  small  number  of  soundings,  of  course, 


HOW  A  FATHOMETER  MEASURES   THE  DEPTH 


Figure  40.— This  illustrates  diagrammatically  the  sound  waves  go- 
in^-  out  from  an  oscillator  installed  in  the  hull  plating  of  a  Imer. 
They  can  be  seen  proceeding  to  the  bottom  whence  they  are  re- 
flected back   toward  the   sea   surface.     The  hydrophone,,  near   the 


keel  picks  up  the  echoes  and  transmits  them  electrically  to  the 
bridge,  where  they  are  amplified.  (Courtesy  of  Submarine  Signal 
Co.). 

can  not  give  a  perfect  picture  of  the  bathymetry  of  a  large  region 
like  that  concerned,  even  if  very  well  distributed  along  caretully 
planned  lines.  In  view  of  the  few  soundings  previously  recorded  in 
the  deep  water  of  the  area,  however,  they  suffice  as  taken  to  give 
much  more  detailed  and  positive  information  about  the  shelves, 
slopes,  and  basins  of  the  region  than  was  hitherto  available. 


EXPEDITION    TO   DAVIS   STRAIT   AND   BAFFIX    BAY        OO 

Two  things  are  necessary  to  make  a  sounding  of  value  for  use  on  a 
chart:  First,  the  geographical  position  Avhere  it  was  taken  must  be 
known  quite  accurately ;  second,  the  sounding  must  be  nearly  correct. 
The  Marion  soundings  can  be  divided  into  two  groups,  a  less  impor- 
tant one  comprising  those  taken  in  harbors  and  sheltered  waters,  and 
a  more  important  one  comprising  those  taken  in  the  open  sea.  In 
neither  of  these  groups  is  the  determination  position  all  that  could  be 
desired.  The  unfamiliarity  of  the  personnel  Avith  the  unlighted  and 
practicallv  unmarked  coasts  and  harbors  made  accurate  determina- 
tion of  the  position  of  soundings  taken  inshore  most  difficult,  espe- 


THE  CONTROL  PANEL  OF  THE   FATIIOMETEIl 

Figure  41. — This  box,  usually  installed  on  the  bridge,  is  used 
to  start  and  stop  the  fathometer  and  to  control  the  fre- 
quency and  intensity  of  the  signals.  There  are  two  scales 
on  its  face,  one  graduated  from  0  to  100  fathoms  and  the 
other  from  0  to  600  fathoms.  The  latter  is  for  use  in  deep 
water.  The  amplified  echoes  permit  the  depth  of  water  to 
be  instantly  obtained  from  one  or  the  other  of  the  above- 
mentioned  scales.      (Courtesy  of  the  Submarine  Signal  Co.). 

cially  in  view  of  the  fact  that  the  places  were  but  once  visited  in  every 
case,  and  then  always  for  a  very  short  time. 

The  soundings  taken  while  cruising  in  bays  and  fiords  were  re- 
corded against  times  in  a  book  by  an  officer  stationed  at  the  fath- 
ometer. Another  officer  cut  in  the  ship's  position  at  frequent  inter- 
vals on  the  chart  being  used.  This  was  accomplished  by  means  of 
laying  down  observed  magnetic  compass  bearings  of  identified  j^oints 
and  islands  from  time  to  time.  The  bearing  observer,  by  means  of 
the  plotted  bearing  lines  on  the  chart,  could  determine  the  approxi- 
mate track  of  the  ship,  and,  gTiided  the  times  of  the  recorded  depth 
values  in  the  soundings  book,  could  later  place  the  soundings  on 


56 

the  chart  at  the  proper  points  along  the  track  Ime.  Both  the  bear- 
ings and  the  depths  Avere  recorded  against  times  read  from  the  same 
clock  on  the  bridge,  which  simplified  matters  by  making  no  correc- 
tions necessary  for  time  observed  on  different  timepieces. 

The  inshore  soundings  obtained  are  doubtless  much  more  accu- 
rately located  in  some  instances  than  in  others;  for  instance,  the 
soundings  in  the  Arsuk  Fiord  region  are  undoubtedly  much  better 
with  regard  to  position  than  those  taken  in  the  fiord  just  south  of 
Aulalsivik  Island,  Labrador.  For  the  latter  place  there  was  no  large- 
scale  harbor  chart,  and  it  was  noticeable  that  the  fiord  was  actually 
ver}^  different  from  the  shape  shown  on  the  small-scale  chart  of 
Labrador  which  had  to  be  used. 

In  view^  of  the  scarcity  of  recorded  soundings  on  the  charts  of  the 
inland  waters  visited  it  is  believed  that  the  approximately  located 
soundings,  such  as  those  shown  on  Figures  44  and  45  of  this  pam- 
phlet, will  be  useful  until  such  times  as  the  regions  are  carefully 
surveyed  and  exactly  located  sounding  values  obtained  and  plotted. 

At  sea  whenever  the  echoes  from  the  bottom  could  be  heard 
fathometer  soundings  were  made  at  stations  and  also  at  least  every 
half  hour  while  between  stations.  The  location  of  these  offshore 
soundings  was  another  matter  from  the  location  of  the  fiord  and  bay 
soundings.  The  principles  upon  which  the  accuracy  of  the  determi- 
nations rest,  however,  are  largely  the  same.  Tlie  time  as  shown  by 
the  bridge  clock  and  the  sounding  values  observed  were  recorded  in 
a  specially  ruled  notebook  by  the  different  watch  officers,  each  one 
taking  and  recording  the  soundings  made  during  his  watch.  The 
ship's  positions  offshore  were  determined  by  means  of  bearings  of 
prominent  landmarks,  when  available,  supplemented  by  numerous 
lines  of  positions  obtained  from  sextant  observations  of  heavenly 
bodies.  The  latter  position  lines  w^ere  the  only  available  means  of 
locating  the  position  when  the  ship  Avas  out  of  sight  of  land. 

The  terrestrial  bearings  and  the  lines  of  position  permitted  the 
ship's  track  to  be  drawn  on  the  chart,  and  the  Marion^ s  successive 
positions  on  this  track,  at  intervals  of  15  minutes,  were  carefully 
indicated  by  short  cross  lines.  The  cross  lines  marking  the  hourly 
positions  were  longer  than  those  marking  the  half  hour,  while  the 
quarter-hour  cross  marks  were  the  shortest  of  all.  The  date  and 
the  ship's  times  from  0  to  24  hours  were  written  at  the  proper  places 
along  the  track,  making  reference  at  any  time  easy  and  certain. 

The  soundings  taken  at  sea  Avere  entered  from  the  soundings  book, 
and  recorded  along  the  track  on  the  plotting  charts  every  two  or 
three  days.  The  latitude  and  longitude  of  the  soundings  A\^ere  also 
entered  to  the  nearest  minute  every  Iavo  or  three  days  in  the  sound- 
ings book  from  the  plotting  sheets.  Thus  a  double  record  of  the 
offshore  soundings  Avas  maintained,  Avhich  remains  available  for 
ready  reference  to  this  dav. 

The  Avriter  Avas  in  charge  of  the  navigational  Avork,  so  the  accuracy 
of  the  offshore  soundings  positions  depends  chiefly  upon  how  many 
properly  Avorked-out  sights  he  plotted  daily.  The  longitude  should, 
in  general,  haA^e  been  accurate,  for  there  Avas  a  good  chronometer 
on  board  the  Marion  Avhich  Avas  checked  up  several  times  each  Aveek 
by  radio  time  signals  from  Arlington,  Va.  All  the  other  officers 
Avorked  out  sights  occasionally,  and  these  checked  up  consistently 
with  the  plotted  j^ositions  along  the  track  line. 


^ '  MAEIOX  ' '   EXPEDITION    TO   DAVIS   STRAIT   AND   BAFFIX    BAY        57 

Had  there  been  no  cloiuly  weather  nor  unusual  refraction,  the 
positions  at  sea  wouhl  have  been  very  good,  as  such  positions  go. 
Unfortunately,  there  Avere  frequent  periods  when  bad  weather  made 
the  heavenly  bodies  invisible  and  a  feAV  other  periods  when  abnor- 
mal refraction  was  suspected.  The  accuracy  of  the  track  positions 
in  some  places  at  sea  is,  therefore,  doubtful,  though,  in  view  of  the 
paucity  of  previous  soundings,  almost  never  to  a  seriously  damaging 
degree.  Throughout  all  periods  when  sights  were  possible,  many  of 
them  would  be  taken,  permitting  good  estinnites  and  interpolations 
to  be  made  for  the  dead-reckoning  positions  which  had  to  be  relied 
on  between  the  fixes — that  is,  during  the  bad  Aveather  periods. 

The  ship's  track  Avas  ahvays  determined  graphically  by  laying 
doAvn  and  running  forAA^ard  the  A^arious  bearing  and  Sumner  lines 
on  large-scale  plotting  charts  that  Avere  on  the  Mercator  projection. 
The  regular  plotting  sheets  published  by  the  Hydrographic  Office  of 
the  United  States  XaAy  Avere  used  south  of  latitude  61°  X.  Special 
charts  constructed  on  board  on  a  scale  of  2.75  inches  to  the  degree 
of  longitude  Avere  used  for  tracking  farther  north,  as  no  regular 
plotting  sheets  could  be  purchased  prior  to  the  departure  of  the 
expedition  for  latitudes  aboA^e  the  sixty-first  parallel. 

The  observations  Avere  Avorked  out  principally  by  means  of  Hydro- 
graphic  Office  Publications  203  and  204  Avhen  south  of  the  latitude 
60°  30'  X.,  and  by  means  of  the  liaA^ersine-cosine  formula  giA'en  in  the 
American  Practical  Xavigator  aaIicu  farther  north.  Meridian  and 
ex-meridian  siglits  Avere  Avorked  out  during  the  entire  cruise  by 
means  of  the  methods  giA^en  in  the  latter  publication. 

At  least  10  sun  sights  were  Avorked  out  on  each  clear  to  partW 
cloudy  day.  On  daA^s  that  Avere  mostly  overcast  almost  as  many  sun 
sights  would  usually  be  Avorked  out,  for,  due  to  the  desire  to  keep 
track  of  the  position  accurately,  the  intervals  between  observations 
AAere  regularly  shortened  whencA^er  the  sun  appeared  to  be  in  danger 
of  being  obscured  for  a  long  period  by  clouds. 

The  positions  AA'ere  carefully  determined  and  checked  and  are  be- 
lieved to  be  free  from  any  gross  errors.  Considering  the  number  of 
siglits  and  bearings  taken  and  the  methods  of  naA'igation  used,  they 
are  probably  the  best  results  that  could  haA'e  been  obtained. 

In  general,  the  positions  of  the  soundings  taken  off  the  coast  can 
be  considered  as  reliable  to  fairly  reliable,  possible  exceptions  being 
off  Baffin  and  Resolution  Islands,  AAdiere  unusual  refraction  may  have 
prevailed.  On  the  Marion  we  seldom  had  positive  evidence  of  un- 
usual refraction,  such  as  great  distortion  of  objects  near  the  horizon 
and  failure  of  sights  taken  at  close  intervals  to  agree  Avell  Avith  one 
another.  It  is  thought  that  the  references  in  the  sailing  directions 
about  the  unusual  refraction  to  be  expected  in  the  Davis  Strait  region 
can  be  attributed  in  many  cases  to  the  land's  being  incorrectly  plotted 
on  the  existing  charts. 

CORRECTIOXS  APPLIED  TO  THE  ECHO  SOUNDINGS 

It  is  AA'ell  knoAA'ii  that  echo  soundings  are  not  accurate  as  taken. 
They  have  to  be  corrected  for  instrumental  and  personal  errors;  also 
for  errors  arising  from  the  varying  speed  of  sound  in  the  Avater 
column  under  the  ship.     The  fathometer  on  the  Marion   Avas  con- 

6816.5—32 .5 


58 


structed  on  the  assumption  that  the  speed  of  sound  in  the  Avater 
cohimn  is  always  820  fathoms  a  second.  This,  as  a  matter  of  fact, 
never  was  the  truth  throughout  the  entire  expedition,  it  being  less 
than  this  value  in  every  case.  Therefore,  every  fathometer  sounding 
recorded  was,  theoretically  at  least,  somewhat  too  great. 

The  speed  of  sound  in  sea  Avater  varies  principally  according  to 
the  salinity,  temperature,  and  pressure.  The  soundings  themselves, 
by  giving  at  least  the  approximate  depth,  furnished  a  clue  regarding 
the  latter  factor,  and  the  first  two  could  be  determined  with  con- 
siderable precision  from  the  salinity  and  temperature  values  ob- 
served at  the  191  oceanographic  stations  which  the  Mm^on  occupied. 
For  complete  information  regarding  this  station  data,  the  reader  is 
referred  to  United  States  Coast  Guard  Bulletin  19,  part  2,  The 
Oceanography  of  Baffin  Bay  and  Davis  Strait.  This  pamphlet  is 
not  yet  published,  but  it  will  probably  be  distributed  in  1932. 

The  first  step  in  correcting  the  fathometer  soundings  was  to  deter- 
mine the  speed  of  sound  at  each  station.  This  speed  was  obtained, 
after  averaging  the  salinities  and  temperatures  for  each  200-fathom 
water  layer  at  each  station,  from  the  tables  on  pages  160  and  161 
of  Hydrographic  Manual,  J.  H.  Hawley,  Special  Publication  No. 
143  of  the  United  States  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey,  1928.  The  sta- 
tions were  occupied  to  various  meter  levels,  but  it  was  possible  to  plot 
the  salinities  and  temperatures  to  a  meter  scale,  graphically  convert 
to  fathoms,  and  average  conditions  by  200-fathom  layers  in  every 
case  by  inspection  without  any  important  error. 

The  United  States  Hydrographic  Office,  the  Carnegie  Institution 
of  Washington,  and  the  United  States  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey, 
all  assisted  the  writer  with  information  and  with  advice  on  how 
to  attack  the  problem  or  determining  the  speed  of  sound  in  the 
water  columns  of  Davis  Strait.  The  United  States  Coast  and 
Geodetic  Survey  went  over  the  preliminary  soundings  correction 
work  in  several  of  its  stages,  independently  checking  a  large  number 
of  the  speed  of  sound  values  shown  on  Figure  46.  Because  of  this 
checking,  the  writer  feels  much  more  confident  regarding  the  accu- 
racy and  value  of  this  chart  than  otherwise  would  be  the  case. 

After  the  first  speed  of  sound  chart  was  constructed,  all  the 
MaHo7i's  oif shore  soundings  and  all  the  speed  of  sound  values  were 
plotted  on  the  Mercator  projection  on  two  large  rolls  of  tracing 
paper,  ruled  up  on  a  scale  of  4  inches  to  the  degree  of  longitude. 
The  various  soundings  were  grouped  on  the  new  chart  with  different 
speeds  of  sound  varying  by  2  fathoms  per  second.  Corrections  were 
then  made  in  accordance  with  the  table  given  below : 

Speed  of  sound  in  tcater  colwmi  at  sounding  spot  in  fathoms  per  second  and 
percentage  correction  to  he  applied  to  fathometer  readings 


a  thorns 

per 

second : 

Per  cent 

Fathoms 

per 

second : 

Fer  cent 

790 

—3.64 

808_ 

-1.46 

792 

—3.40 

810_ 

-1.22 

794 

—3.16 

812- 



—  .98 

796- 

—2.92 

814_ 



—  .74 

798- 

—2.68 

816- 



—  .48 

800_ 

—2.48 

818- 



-  .24 

802 

—2.20 

820_ 



C) 

804_ 

—1.96 

822_ 



+   .24 

806- 



—1.72 

^  No  correction. 

i  i 


MAPJOX  ' '   EXPEDITIOX    TO    DAVIS   STRAIT   AXD   BAFFIN    BAY        59 


The  correction  for  each  fathometer  sounding  as  calculated  was 
applied  right  on  the  large  chart  rolls  to  the  observed  depth  values. 
In  addition.  2  fathoms  Avere  taken  from  each  fathometer  value  to 
allow  for  the  fathometer  constant,  a  number  which  was  obtained  by 
comjDaring  corrected  red-light  fathometer  and  simultaneously  taken 
wire  soundings  with  each  other.  The  fathometer  constant  is  a  sort  of 
index  error  of  the  aj^paratus.  It  does  not  vary  with  the  depth  or 
character  of  water  column,  but  with  the  location  of  the  particular 
fathometer  oscillator  and  hj^lrophone  being  used  below  the  water 
line  of  the  sounding  ship.  After  the  above  tAvo  corrections  w^ere 
applied,  the  shallow  Avater  or  red-light  soundings  were  corrected  so 
far  as  possible. 

All  the  soundings  in  fact  Avere  noAv  better  than  they  w^ere  w^hen 
first  taken,  but  there  still  remained  personal  errors  in  the  Avhite-light 
soundings  Avhich  it  Avas  possible,  in  large  part,  to  eliminate.  Fifty- 
three  wdre  soundings,  over  100  fathoms  deep,  had  been  taken  at 
stations  during  the  course  of  the  expedition,  and  these  Avere  now 
analyzed  in  comparison  with  the  partly  corrected  white  light  echo 
soundings  which  had  been  taken  simultaneously  in  the  same  places. 
Some  35  of  these  w^ire  soundings  had  been  fair  to  good  up-and-down 
casts  taken  during  moderate  Aveather.  It  was  seen  that  these  reliable 
checks  had  rather  consistent  differences  from  the  partly  corrected 
echo  soundings  Avhen  the  latter  were  grouped  according  to  the  watches 
of  the  different  officers  Avho  had  had  the  deck  and  taken  and  recorded 
the  fathometer  readings.  It  was  found  that  one  officer,  on  the  aA^er- 
age.  had  recorded  all  of  his  white-light  soundings  32  fathoms  too 
great,  AAdiile  the  three  others  had  recorded  them,  on  the  average,  only 
11  fathoms  too  great ;  32  or  11  fathoms,  therefore,  were  taken  from 
all  the  partly  corrected  white-light  soundings  plotted  on  the  chart, 
depending  upon  Avho  had  had  the  watch  during  which  they  were 
taken.  This  completed  the  corrections  to  all  of  the  offshore  sound- 
ings, and  brought  them,  on  the  average,  as  close  as  possible  to  the 
good  Avire  soundings  and  the  true  depth. 

AVhen  all  offshore  soundings  had  been  corrected,  the  values  obtained 
in  the  harbors  and  inland  Avaters  were  corrected  in  the  same  general 
manner.  These  were  plotted  on  special  large  scale  charts  of  the 
areas  concerned,  the  soundings  being  much  too  close  together  in  these 
regions  to  permit  their  being  plotted  and  corrected  on  the  chart  rolls 
containing  the  offshore  soundings  on  the  scale  of  4  inches  to  the 
degree  of  longitude.  Some  of  the  corrected  soundings  obtained  in 
inland  waters  are  shoAvn  on  Figures  44  and  45. 

It  is  hard  to  say  how  much  ihe  fully  corrected  fathometer  values 
may  vary  from  the  true  depth,  just  as  it  is  to  say  how  far  Avrong  the 
different  Avire  soundings  may  be.  It  is  thought  that  the  completely 
adjusted  fathometer  values  are  correct  in  at  least  half  of  the  cases 
to  within  plus  or  minus  25  fathoms  for  all  depths.  There  are  prob- 
ably a  fcAv  over  plus  or  minus  50  fathoms  in  error,  but  this  number 
is  undoubtedly  A^ry  small. 

FINAL  RESULTS 

One  of  the  last  steps  in  Avorking  up  the  soundings  data  was  to 
construct  a  general  chart  of  the  Davis  Strait  region  on  the  polyconic 
projection  on  the  scale  of  30,000  meters  to  the  inch.    To  this  chart 


60 

all  the  fiill^v  corrected  offshore  echo  and  wire  soundings  were  care- 
fully transferred.  Next,  the  various  land  areas  and  the  depth  values 
that  had  been  obtained  by  others  about  Davis  Strait  were  entered 
on  this  chart.  The  charts  from  which  already  plotted  depth  values 
were  taken  include : 

B.  A.  Chart  235,  marked  ''  Small  corrections,  1922-3.15." 
B.  A.  Chart  1422,  marked  "  Large  corrections,  March  16,  1928." 
B.  A.  Chart  2060B,  marked  "  Small  corrections,  April,  1927." 
B.  A.  Chart  112,  marked  "  Small  corrections,  September,  1923." 
B.  A.  Chart  263,  marked  "  Small  corrections,  October,  1925." 
Canadian  Chart  405.  published  in  Mav,  1928. 
H.  O.  Chart  980,  marked  ^'  Small  corrections,  January,  1928." 
H.  O.  Chart  2440a,  marked  ''  Edition  of  September,  1927." 
H.  O.  Chart  2440b,  marked  "  Small  corrections,  February,  1927." 
H.  O.  Chart  1412,  nuirked  ''  Small  corrections,  July,  1928." 
H.  O.  Chart  955,  marked  ''  Small  corrections,  December,  1930." 
Besides  depth  values  obtained  from  the  above  charts,  a  number  of 
corrected  echo   soundings  obtained  by  the   international   ice-patrol 
vessels  just  north  of  the  Grand  Banks  in  1930  Avere  used.     Also  18 
depth  values  observed  by  tlie  German  oceanographic   ship  Meteor 
oft'  Cape  FareAvell,  between  1928  and  1930,  were  furnished  for  use 
by  the  Institut  f  iir  Meereskunde  an  der  Universitat,  Berlin.    Finally, 
19  soundings  obtained  by  the  nonmagnetic  research  vessel  Carnegie 
while  south  of  Greenland,  during  her  last  cruise,  were  plotted.    These 
last   depth  values  were   furnished  by   the   Carnegie   Institution   of 
Washington,  D.  C.    After  all  available  depth  values  had  been  entered 
on  the  large  polyconic  chart,  the  various  contour  lines  Avere  drawn. 
Next,  the  land  areas  and  the  contour  lines  were  transferred  to  a 
smaller  polyconic  chart  of  the  same  region.     The  resulting  bathy- 
metrical  chart  is  show^n  here  as  Figure  51. 

Future  expeditions  equipped  with  sonic  depth  finders  will  un- 
doubtedly modify  the  details  of  the  above  chart,  especially  in  the 
areas  where  there  are  still  few  or  no  soundings.  It  is  believed,  how- 
ever, that  the  major  details  of  the  depths  of  the  Davis  Strait  region 
have  been  brought  out  on  it  accurately,  and  it  is  presented  here  as 
the  most  important  bathymetrical  result  of  the  Marion  expedition 
of  1928. 


68166—31.     (Face  p.  80.)     No.  I 


^^^-^r--^  ■  '-/-A 


SOUNDINGS  MADE  BY  THE  MARION  EXPEDITION 

I    while:  in  the:  vicinity  of  ivigtut 

I  ALL  SOUNDINGS  IN   FATIhOMS 

j  CAUTION 

I  LOCAT  ON  I  ~  SOLN'^INCS 


''%■ 


^:^    ARSUK 
^  IStAKD 


48'4aW. 


48°y)X 


48''20W. 


&r05'N.-] 


GREENLAND 
WEST  COAST 
ARSUK  nORD. 

BASEO'ON  A  DANISM  CHART  OF   1866. 

48°ipW.  4$V. 


e  by  the  Motion  expedttloo  la  and  near  Arsuk  Fiord,  Qreenleod 


esiect— 31.     (Fac«p.80.)     NO.S. 


Ek  sai  tt^al  fc  n  vot' — .  T;*  »a  u  i  .  * ; 


MAPJOX  "    EXPEDITION    TO   DxVVIS    STEAIT    AXD    BAFFIN    BAY        61 


Figure  40. — Chart  showing  the  speed  of  sound  through  the  water  for  sonic  sounding 
purposes  in  the  Davis  Strait  region.  The  figures  show  the  speed  of  sound  in  the  water 
columns  of  different  areas  in  fathoms  per  second 


Chapter  III 
THE  SEDIMENTS 

Parker  D.  Trask 
INTRODUCTION 

This  paper  ^  presents  detailed  mechanical  analyses  and  brief  petro- 
logic  descriptions  of  27  deposits  collected  by  the  Marion  expedition 
to  Davis  Strait.  The  practicability  of  the  fundamental  constants  of 
the  size  distribution  of  sediments,  namely,  the  median  diameter,  and 
the  coefficients  of  skewness  and  sorting  is  discussed.  The  deposits 
contain  much  ice-borne  detritus.  Faceted,  subroundecl  pebbles  are 
fairly  uniformly  distributed  in  the  sediments  over  the  entire  region. 
They  constitute  14  per  cent  of  the  deposits.  Gneiss,  quartzite,  and 
aphanitic  limestone  are  the  predominant  rock  types.  The  nearest 
source  of  the  limestone  seems  to  be  in  northern  Greenland  or  the 
Arctic  northwest  500  to  1,000  miles  away,  but  the  areal  geology  of 
northern  Baffin  Land  is  imperfectly  known,  and  the  limestone  may 
come  from  nearer  regions  not  yet  explored.  The  texture  of  the 
sediments  varies  with  the  configuration  of  the  sea  bottom  and  with 
the  surface  currents  and  tides.  The  deposits  are  relatively  coarse 
on  steep  slopes  and  also  in  Hudson  Strait,  off  Cumberland  Bay,  and 
on  the  transverse  ridge  that  separates  Davis  Strait  from  Baffin  Bay. 
The  presence  of  1  to  4  per  cent  of  frosted,  well-rounded  sand  grains 
suggests  an  eolian  origin  for  some  of  the  constituents.  The  fine 
sediments  contain  from  20  to  40  per  cent  calcium  carbonate,  which 
is  in  a  finely  comminuted  state.  Its  association  with  the  limestone 
rock  fragments  in  the  deposit  suggests  that  it  is  derived  from 
detritus  carried  by  ice. 

GENERAL  REMARKS 

This  paper  does  not  purport  to  be  a  comprehensive  study  of  the 
sediments  of  Davis  Strait.  Its  object  is  to  present  and  interpret  cer- 
tain data  that  are  available.  The  writer  has  been  aided  by  Harald  E. 
Hammar  and  M.  A.  Clark  in  determining  the  organic  and  carbonate 
content  of  the  sediments  and  by  John  Lucke  and  F.  B.  Walcott  in 
making  the  mechanical  analyses.  The  description  of  the  mineral 
and  rock  constituents  of  the  sediments  are  based  on  hand-lens  deter- 
minations and,  therefore,  are  not  as  satisfactory  as  if  they  were  the 
result  of  microscopical  examination. 

1  This  paper,  written  by  Trask,  represents  results  arising  from  an  investigation  on 
"  The  Origin  and  Environment  of  Source  Beds  of  Petroleum,"  listed  as  project  4  of  the 
American  Petroleum  Institute  Research  program.  Financial  assistance  in  this  work  has 
been  received  from  a  research  fund  of  the  American  Petroleum  Institute  donated  by 
Mr.  John  D.  Rockefeller.  This  fund  is  being  administered  by  the  institute  with  the 
cooperation  of  the  National  Research  Council. 

62 


Li 


MARION  ' '   EXPEDITIOX    TO   DAVIS   STRAIT   AXD   BAFFIX    BAY        63 


Twenty-seven  samples  were  studied.  There  were  taken  along  tra- 
verse lines  of  the  Marion  expedition  and  afford  data  for  one  longi- 
tudinal section,  200  miles  in  length,  in  the  central  part  of  Davis 
Strait  off  Cumljerland  Peninsula,  five  traverse  sections  on  the  west 
side  of  the  strait  between  oT''  and  64°  X.,  and  single  localities  from 
the  middle  of  Hudson  Strait,  off  Cape  Farewell  and  east  of  southern 
Labrador.  The  sediments  vary  in  texture,  but  they  are  character- 
ized by  a  significant  content  of  faceted,  subrounded  rock  fragments, 
resulting  from  ice  transportation.  The  sampling  instrument  has  an 
internal  diameter  of  4  centimeters  and  could  not  procure  pebbles 
larger  than  that  size.  Consequently  the  total  quantity  of  fragments 
in  the  deposits  was  not  ascertainal)le,  but  from  the  depth  of  pene- 
tration and  the  small  proportion  of  big  pebbles  collected,  it  is  prob- 
able that  large  rock  fragments  constitute  a  very  minor  part  of  the 
sediments. 

IXTERPRETATIOX  OF  MECHANICAL  ANALYSES 

Method  of  analysis. — The  results  of  the  mechanical  analyses  of 
the  sediments  are  shown  in  Tables  2,  3,  and  5  and  on  Figures  47,  48, 
and  49.  The  method  of  analysis  was  a  centrifuge  procedure  which 
gives  the  complete  size  distribution. - 

The  customary  separation  of  the  samples  into  gravel,  sand,  silt, 
clay,  and  colloid  is  shown  in  Table  3  and  the  subdivision  of  the 
gravel  and  sand  groups  in  Table  4.  Table  2  shows  the  fundamental 
constants  of  the  size  distribution.  It  is  impracticable  to  present  the 
mechanical  analyses  of  so  manj^  sediments  in  histograms,  but  the 
important  characteristics  of  the  size  distribution  are  indicated  con- 
veniently by  three  constants,  the  median  diameter,  the  coefficient  of 
sorting,  and  the  coefficient  of  skewness  or  its  logarithm.  These  are 
given  in  columns  3,  5,  6,  and  7  of  Table  2  and  on  Figures  47  and  48. 

Median. — The  median  diameter  indicates  the  mid-point  of  the  size 
distribution.  One-half  the  weight  of  the  sediment  is  composed  of 
particles  larger  in  diameter  than  the  median,  and  one-half  smaller. 
The  median  is  the  most  important  single  constant  for  describing  the 
character  of  a  sediment,  as  it  gives  a  mathematical  means  of  measur- 
ing variations  in  texture.  Thus,  medians  from  50  to  1,000  microns 
indicate  sands;  from  5  to  50  microns,  silts:  1  to  5  microns,  clays; 
and  less  than  1  micron,  colloids. 

Coefficient  of  sorting. — The  coefficient  of  sorting  affords  a  mathe- 
matical measure  of  the  degree  of  sorting  of  a  sediment.  It  is  based 
on  the  first  and  third  quartiles,  which  refer  respectively  to  the  one- 
fourth  and  three-fourths  marks  in  the  size  distribution.  These  are 
given  in  columns  2  and  4  in  Table  2.  Twenty-five  per  cent  of  the 
weight  of  the  sample  is  composed  of  particles  larger  than  the  first 
quartile  and  75  per  cent  larger  than  the  third  quartile.  Thus,  by 
means  of  the  quartiles,  the  size  distribution  is  divided  into  four  equal 
parts  called  quartile  intervals.  The  coefficient  of  sorting,  ^o^  is 
derived  from  the  formula  So=-ylQilQ^.  where  Q^  and  Qz  are  the 
first  and  third  quartiles,  respectively.  If  So  is  less  than  2.5,  the 
sample  is  well  sorted;  if  it  is  greater  than  4.5  the  sediment  is 
poorly  sorted ;  and  if  it  is  about  3  the  deposit  is  normally  sorted. 

2  P.  D.  Trask.  Mechanical  Analysis  of   Sediments  by   Centrifuge,   Econ.   Geol.,   vol.   25, 
pp.  581-599,  1930. 


64 


' '  MARION  ' '   EXPEDITION    TO    DAVIS    STRAIT    AND   BAFFIN    BAY 


Consequently  the  coefficient  of  sorting  indicates  whether  or  not 
particles  of  about  the  size  of  the  median  are  plentiful.  For  example, 
in  sample  2,  So  is  1.87,  which  means  that  50  per  cent  of  the  weight 
of  the  sample  is  composed  of  particles  that  differ  in  diameter  less 
than  1.87  units  from  a  certain  reference  diameter;  that  is,  25  per 
cent  of  the  sample  is  composed  of  particles  larger  than  1.87  times 


isA« 


SoV 


/63 


/3S- 


^S^ 


^f"] 


«ft*^ 


^^^* 

lJf/5. 


ZOO- 


'f' 


\3 


w 


©/? 


:to8 


U^ 


foo  ^ 


\uia/sivffi 


ao 


.73 


CP 


100 

^/BO-  500 
/ooo 


J5Q0 


m 


jf^%» 


cP 


-A 


Aooo 


,/  ^ 

\ 

i^' 

s 

fc.  V  ^ 

--aAX^'^^'^ 

'^^^-. 

A^\ 

'^•^^""^^x^^nX 

^^O 

^ 

l\ 

.'jtfl)    1  \  \ 

Figure   41 


the  size  of  this  reference  diameter,  25  per  cent  of  particles  smaller 
than  1/1.87  times  the  reference  diameter;  and  50  per  cent  within  the 
diameter  range  of  1.87  units  on  either  side  of  the  reference  diameter. 
If  the  histogram  of  the  size  distribution  were  symmetrical,  the 
reference  diameter  would  be  the  same  as  the  median,  but  since 
the  size  distribution  of  most  sediments  is  unsymmetrical,  the  refer- 


MAEIOX  "    EXPEDITIOX    TO    DAVIS    STRAIT    AND    BAFFIN    BAY        65 


ence  diameter  ( 
of  this  sami)le 


ffers  somewhat  from  the  median.  Since  the  median 
is  145  microns,  the  sediment  must  be  a  very  well- 
sorted,  fine-ai-ained  sand.  On  the  other  hand,  sample  22,  is  a 
poorly  sorted.  Hne-orained  sand,  as  /<o  is  7.25  and  M  is  73  microns. 
In  specimen  2  a  ranae  of  only  1.87  times  the  reference  diameter 
accounts  for  25  per  cent  of  the  sediment,  but  in  sam])le  22  it  requires 


Figure  48 


7.25  times  the  reference  diameter  to  comprise  25  per  cent  of  the 
deposit.  The  latter  sediment,  therefore,  is  very  poorly  sorted;  that 
is,  it  contains  much  clay  and  much  coarse  sand  or  gravel. 

Skewness. — If  only  So  and  M  are  given,  the  relationship  of  the 
reference  diameter  to  the  median  is  unknown.  The  coefficient  of 
skewness,  which  is  a  measure  of  the  diss^mimetry  of  the  size  distri- 


66      ^' Marion"  expedition  to  davis  strait  and  Baffin  bay 

bution  fills  this  need.  Various  coefficients  of  skewness  are  used, 
but  the  formula  Sk  =  QxQ^/M-  is  very  satisfactory  for  size  distri- 
butions in  which  the  quartiles  are  known.  If  R  is  the  reference 
diameter,  then  B=MV^  =  Qi/jSo=jSoXQ^.  Thus,  if  the  three 
fundamental  constants,  M,  So,  and  Sk  or  log  Sk,  are  given,  the 
significant  features  of  the  mechanical  composition  of  the  sediment 
are  at  once  apparent,  for  by  multiplying  the  median  by  the  square 
root  of  the  coefficient  of  skew^ness  one  obtains  the  reference  diameter, 
and  by  dividing  or  multiplying  this  by  the  coefficient  of  sorting  he 
gets  the  first  and  third  quartile,  respectiveh\  However  the  main 
object  of  the  skewness  is  to  determine  the  approximate  position  of 
the  mode  of  the  size  distribution;  that  is,  the  diameter  correspond- 
ing to  the  apex  or  crest  of  the  histogram. 

The  coefficient  of  skewness  is  a  ratio  of  the  increase  in  diameter 
in  the  second  quartile  interval  to  that  in  the  third  quartile  interval. 
For  examiDle,  in  sample  1,  Sk  is  3.65.  This  means  that  the  ratio  of 
increase  of  diameter  between  the  median  and  the  first  quartile  is 
3.65  times  that  between  the  third  quartile  and  median;  because, 
from  M  to  Q^  the  diameter  rises  from  5  to  TO,  which  is  a  fourteen- 
fold  increase,  and  from  Qs  to  M  it  goes  from  1.3  to  5,  which  is  a 
fourfold  augmentation.  The  second  and  third  quartile  intervals, 
each  represent  25  per  cent  of  the  weight  of  the  sediments,  but  the 
ratio  of  increase  in  diameter  for  the  two  intervals  is  14  to  3.9,  or 
3.65.  From  this  it  is  evident  that  in  this  sample  the  maximum 
sorting  occurs  on  the  fine  side  of  the  median;  that  is,  the  mode  lies 
in  the  third  quartile  interval. 

The  coefficient  of  skewness  is  a  ratio  varying  about  unity.  Con- 
sequently, when  one  compares  the  dissymmetr}^  of  two  samples,  one 
of  which  has  the  mode  in  the  second  quartile  interval  and  the  other 
in  the  third,  he  obtains  an  erroneous  impression  unless  the  logarithm 
of  the  skewness  is  given.  For  example,  values  of  Sk  of  0.67  and 
1.5  refer  to  the  same  degree  of  dissymmetry;  but  unless  one  is  very 
familiar  with  reciprocals,  the  similarity  of  the  two  ratios  is  not 
evident.  However,  if  they  are  given  in  their  logarithmic  form, 
namely  —0.18  and  +0.18,  respectively,  their  equivalence  is  at  once 
apparent.  For  this  reason  the  skewness  is  given  as  log  Sk  on 
Figure  48. 

The  interpretation  of  the  coefficient  of  skewness  may  be  briefly 
summarized  as  follows:  If  Sk  is  greater  than  1.0  or  log  Sk  positive, 
the  maximum  sorting  of  the  constituents  lies  on  the  fine  side  of  the 
median ;  if  Sk  is  less  than  1,  or  log  Sk  negative,  the  maximum  sort- 
ing is  on  the  coarse  side  of  the  median ;  if  Sk  is  about  1.0  or  log  Sk 
near  0,  the  maximum  sorting  corresponds  approximately  with  the 
median;  and  the  greater  the  divergence  of  Sk  from  1.0,  or  log  Sk 
from  0 ;  the  farther  the  maximum  sorting  lies  from  the  median. 

Practicability  of  fundamental  constants. — In  order  to  illustrate  the 
practicability  of  these  three  fundamental  constants  let  us  take  sample 
1,  in  which  %I  is  5,  So  is  7.35,  and  Sk  is  3.65.  From  these  three  con- 
stants it  follows  that  the  sediment  is  a  coarse-grained  clay;  that  it 
is  very  poorly  sorted;  that  the  greatest  concentration  of  particles 
occurs  in  the  clay  group  relatively  far  from  the  median  on  the  fine 
side;  that  25  per  cent  of  the  sample  is  larger  than  70  microns  in 
diameter,  and  25  per  cent  is  smaller  than  1.3  microns. 


i  i 


MAEIOX  ' '   EXPEDITION    TO   DAVIS   STRAIT   AXD   BAFFIN    BAY        67 


Furthermore,  these  three  constants  afford  a  mathematical  basis  for 
comparin^r  sediments  with  each  other.  They  demonstrate  clearly 
differences  in  general  texture.  de<j:ree  of  sorting  of  entire  sample,  and 
position  of  maxinuun  sortin<r  within  the  deposit.  They,  of  course, 
are  not  substitutes  for  a  complete  analysis,  but  they  do  give  most  of 
the  important  features  of  the  mechanical  composition. 

DESCRIPTIOX   OF   SEDIMENTS 

Texture. — The  sediments  are  characterized  by  the  plentifulness  of 
rock  fragments.  Table  3.  column  2,  and  Figure  49  show  the  distribu- 
tion of  gravel  in  Davis  Strait.  Sample  27,  located  more  than  500 
miles  south  of  the  other  sediments,  is  the  only  deposit  in  Avhich  no 
rock  fragments  occur.  The  average  gravel  content  of  the  sediments 
is  14  per  cent  and  the  maximum  is  29  per  cent.  The  distribution  of 
rock  fragments  is  random  in  nature,  which  indicates  that  gravel  is 
fairly  uniformly  scattered  over  the  sea  floor  in  this  region.  Samples 
15  and  16,  lying  in  deep  water  far  from  shore,  contain  only  4  per 
cent  gravel,  but  until  this  relatively  low  content  is  supported  by  addi- 
tional evidence  one  hesitates  to  infer  a  decreased  gravel  content  in 
the  central  part  of  Davis  Strait. 

The  variation  in  texture  of  the  sediments,  as  indicated  by  the 
median  diameter  and  coefficients  of  sorting  and  skewness,  are  shown 
in  Figures  47  and  48.  The  presence  of  large  quantities  of  gravel  in 
some  samples  makes  the  coefficient  of  sorting  large,  and  masks  the 
sorting  of  the  sands.  The  longitudinal  series  of  samples  lying  in 
400  to  700  meters  of  water  off  Cumberland  Peninsula,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  sample  1,  which  lies  in  a  deep  depression,  are  well-sorted,  fine- 
grained sands,  having  median  diameters  ranging  betAveen  135  and 
260  microns.  Similarly,  sample  19  in  575  meters  of  water  in  the 
middle  of  Hudson  Strait  and  sample  26  in  462  meters  off  Cape  Fare- 
well, Greenland,  are  well-sorted,  fine-grained  sands.  Likewise,  the 
deposits  on  the  two  sections  eastward  from  Cape  Murchison  lying 
in  200  to  250  meters  of  water  are  well-sorted  fine-grained  sands. 
Sample  8,  however,  in  290  meters,  although  containing  a  fairly  large 
amount  of  very  fine-grained  sand  (21  per  cent)  has  12  per  cent  of 
clay  and  22  per  cent  of  colloid ;  consequently  it  is  an  extremely  poorly 
sorted,  fine-grained  sand. 

Sample  15  in  1,500  meters  of  water,  at  the  seaward  end  of  the  sec- 
tion southeastward  from  Cape  Murchison,  is  a  somewhat  poorly 
sorted,  medium-grained  silt.  Similarly,  the  three  samples  forming 
the  section  eastward  from  Resolution  Island,  lying  in  water  700  to 
2,300  meters  deep,  are  silts.  They  contain  30*  to  45  per  cent  clay 
and  colloid  and  are  fairly  poorly  sorted. 

The  texture  of  sediments  eastward  from  Aulalsivik,  at  the  north- 
ern tip  of  Labrador,  varies  considerably.  Sample  20  in  65  meters 
of  water  relatively  near  shore  is  a  fine-grained  silt,  having  a  median 
of  7  microns;  specimen  21  in  water  152  meters  deep,  about  10  miles 
seaward,  is  a  medium-grained  clay  having  a  median  of  2.3  microns; 
and  sample  22  in  1.650  meters  of  water,  125  miles  farther  off  shore, 
is  a  poorly  sorted  fine-grained  sand  having  a  median  of  73  microns. 
The  maximum  amount  of  sorting  in  the  last  sample  is  in  the  fine- 
grained sand  group. 


68 


MARION  ' '   EXPEDITION    TO    DAVIS    STRAIT    AND   BAFFIN    BAY 


The  section  eastward  from  Mount  BIoav  Me  Down,  50  miles  south 
of  AulalsiA^k,  is  restricted  to  the  continental  platform.  The  sedi- 
ments consist  of  fine-grained  poorly  sorted  sands  and,  except  for 
sample  24,  contain  about  25  per  cent  of  clay  and  colloid.  Sample  27 
in  855  meters  of  water,  150  miles  off  the  southern  coast  of  Labrador, 
i^  a   normallv   sorted   fairly  fine-grained   silt.     Similarly   sample   1 


FKiUltE  40 

on  the  slope  into  a  depression  2,000  meters  in  depth  off  Cumberland 
Peninsula  is  a  fine-grained  silt. 

Frosting  of  sand  grains. — All  the  samples  contain  frosted  sand 
grains.  The  greatest  amount  of  polishing  occurs  in  the  medium- 
grained  sand  group  (250  to  500  microns),  but  some  of  the  coarse 
and  fine  sands  are  frosted.    The  relative  amount  of  polished  grains 


EXPEDITION    TO   DAVIS   STRAIT   AND   BAFFIX    BAY        69 

in  the  medium  sand  subdivision  is  shown  in  Table  5,  cohunn  G.  A 
scale  of  1  to  3  is  used:  1  indicates  less  than  5  per  cent  of  the  constit- 
uents are  frosted;  2,  between  5  and  10  per  cent;  and  3,  betAveen 
10  and  15  per  cent.  P^xcept  for  samples  H  and  9,  which  are  used 
as  standards  and  which  contain  about  15  per  cent  of  polished  grains, 
the  quantity  of  frosted  components  was  estimated  by  inspection.  As 
this  polishing  occurs  chiefly  in  the  medium  sands,  the  percentage  of 
frosted  grains  in  the  whole  sediment  may  be  estimated  roughh^  from 
column  5,  Table  4,  and  column  G.  Table  5.  The  maxinnnn  amount 
of  polishing  occurs  in  sample  11)  from  the  middle  of  Hudson  Strait, 
in  which  about  -1  per  cent  of  the  sample  consists  of  frosted  sand 
grains.    Most  of  the  sediments  contain  1  per  cent. 

If  one  Idiots  on  a  map  the  relative  frosting  of  the  medium-grained 
sands  as  shown  in  column  6,  Table  5,  he  will  see  that  the  amount  of 
polishing  tends  to  decrease  toward  the  middle  of  Davis  Strait;  sam- 
ples 7,  15,  16,  22,  and  27,  all  situated  far  from  shore,  contain  rela- 
tively few  frosted  grains.  Sample  26  off  Cape  Farewell,  on  the 
other  side  of  the  strait,  similarly,  is  deficient  in  polished  constituents. 

Descrlptfon  of  rock  fragments. — The  rock  fragments  range  in  size 
from  less  than  a  millimeter  to  about  3  centimeters.  Larger  pebbles 
probabl}^  occur,  but  presumably  not  to  any  great  extent,  from  the 
point  of  view  of  percentage  composition  of  the  sediments;  because 
large  fragments  are  not  common  and  most  of  the  pebbles  are  less 
than  one-fourth  inch  (7  millimeters)  in  diameter.  None  of  the 
fragments  are  well  rounded.  Xearly  all  of  them  are  faceted  and 
most  of  the  edges  of  the  facets  are  polished.  The  degree  of  round- 
ing varies  considerably,  but  the  limestone  pebbles  are  l)etter  rounded 
than  the  others. 

The  dominant  rock  types  are  gneiss,  quartzite,  and  gray  and  bull 
aphanitic  noncrystalline  limestone;  hornblendite  and  various  types 
of  granitic  rocks  are  common;  basalt  occurs  sporadicalh^ ;  and  an 
eroded  pelecypod  shell  was  found  in  one  sample.  Some  of  the  frag- 
ments classified  as  limestone  probably  are  dolomite,  as  they  effervesce 
but  slightly  in  cold  hvdrochloric  acid.  The  distribution  of  the  rock 
types  in  the  A^arious  sediments  is  summarized  briefly  in  column  5, 
Table  5,  and  on  Figure  49.  Gneiss  or  quartzite  occurs  in  practically 
every  sample;  except  for  the  sediments  off  Cape  Murchison,  lime- 
stone is  almost  universally  present;  hornblendite  and  granitic  rocks 
are  less  common,  but  their  distribution  is  general;  basalt  is  restricted 
to  deposits  south  of  Hudson  Strait;  and  the  pelecypod  shell  w^as 
found  in  sample  24  off  the  north  coast  of  Labrador. 

Cahruim  carlo nate  content. — The  distribution  of  calcium  carbonate 
in  the  sediments  is  shown  in  Table  5  and  on  Figure  50.  The  fine- 
grained deposits  are  fairly  rich  in  CaCO;;,  most  of  them  containing 
from  20  to  40  per  cent.  The  well-sorted  sands  ofl'  Caj^e  Murchion  have 
less  than  5  per  cent  and  the  distribution  of  CaCOs  along  the  longi- 
tudinal section  off  Cumberland  Peninsula  is  variable.  Samples  2  and 
4  contain  less  than  5  per  cent  but  adjacent  samples  have  about  15 
per  cent.     The  Spearman  coefficient  of  correlation,  p,^  between  the 

3  See  R.  E.  Chaddock.  rrinciples  and  Methods  of  Statistics^  Houghton  Mifflin  Co.,  New- 
York,  pp.   800-305,  1925. 


70 

calcium  carbonate  content  and  the  third  quartile  diameter  for  all  27 
sediments  is  0.61  it  0.09,  but  if  the  anomalous  sample  8  is  omitted,  it  is 
0.71  ±0.07.  This  indicates  a  fairly  good  relationship  and  shows  that 
in  general  the  calcium  carbonate  content  increases  as  the  sediments 
become  finer. 

Organic  content. — The  organic  content  of  recent  sediments  is  con- 
vientlj^  estimated  by  multiplying  the  nitrogen  content  by  11.  This 
is  not  an  exact  procedure,  but  it  is  a  rapid  means  of  procuring  a  rough 
approximation.*  Table  5  and  Figure  50  show  the  distribution  of 
nitrogen  in  the  sediments  of  Davis  Strait.  Except  for  sample  20  ad- 
jacent to  the  north  coast  of  Labrador,  the  nitrogen  content  ranges 
between  0.05  and  0.09  per  cent.  This  indicates  that  the  deposits 
contain  about  1  per  cent  organic  matter,  which  compared  with  tho 
content  of  other  marine  sediments  is  very  low. 

■  As  a  rule  the  ignition  loss  aids  the  estimation  of  the  organic 
content  of  sediments,  but  the  samples  from  Davis  Strait  contain  so 
much  calcium  carbonate  that  it  is  not  of  much  assistance  for  these 
deposits.     HoAvever,  it  is  included  in  Table  5. 

THE  ORIGIN    OF   THE    SEDIMENTS 

Texture. — The  sediments  of  Davis  Strait  are  complex  in  origin. 
They  contain  a  considerable  quantity  of  ice-borne  debris;  the  pres- 
ence of  frosted  sand  grains  suggests  wdnd  transport;  the  large 
amount  of  very  fine  calcium  carbonate  particles  may  possibly  (but 
not  probably)  be  due  to  chemical  precipitation;  and  the  uneven  sea 
floor  and  differential  current  action  cause  great  variations  in  the 
texture  of  the  deposits. 

The  submarine  topography  is  the  dominant  factor  governing  the 
texture  of  the  sediments  of  Davis  Strait.  Even  though  considerable 
quantities  of  ice-borne  rock  fragments  are  distributed  throughout 
the  deposits,  the  mechanical  composition  of  the  sediments  is  in- 
fluenced greatly  by  the  bottom  configuration.  Along  the  longitudi- 
nal series  of  samples  adjacent  to  the  Cumberland  Peninsula,  the 
sediments  are  coarsest  on  the  highest  point  on  the  section  and  they 
become  progressively  finer  as  the  water  deepens  on  either  side.  The 
median  decreases  from  260  microns  in  a  sample  in  418  meters  of 
water  to  5  microns  in  1,270  meters  on  the  north,  and  135  microns 
in  625  meters  on  the  south.  Sample  5,  having  a  median  of  163 
microns  lies  in  420  meters,  but  it  contains  only  12  per  cent  gravel 
compared  with  26  per  cent  in  adjoining  samples,  and  if  the  gravel 
is  discounted,  the  two  sediments  have  aproximately  the  same  texture. 

The  samples  along  the  lines  eastward  from  Cape  Murchison, 
similarly,  vary  in  texture  with  the  topography.  Deposits  that  lie  in 
200  meters  have  medians  of  about  200  microns;  sample  11,  in  250 
meters  has  155  microns;  sample  14,  in  263  meters,  131  microns; 
sample  8  in  290  meters,  85  microns;  and  sample  15  in  1,500  meters, 
21  microns. 

Sample  19,  in  Hudson  Strait  in  575  meters,  has  a  median  of  208 
microns.     This  shows  clearly  that  it  is  not  depth  of  Avater  that  is 

*P.  D.  Trask,  Sedimentation  of  tne  Cliannel  Islands  Region.  California.  Econ.  Geol., 
vol.  26,  pp.  36-42,  1931. 


' '  MARION  ' '   EXPEDITIOX    TO   DAVIS   STRAIT   AND   BAFFIN    BAY 


71 


the  controllino-  factor,  for  this  sediment  lies  in  water  nearly  three 
times  as  deep  as  do  the  samples  off  Cape  Murchison,  yet  the  deposits 
have  the  same  texture.  Similarly  the  sediments  east  of  Resolution 
Island  show  that  the  bottom  configuration  influences  the  deposits 
more  than  depth  of  Avater.     The  normal  progression  of  decrease  in 


Figure  50 

texture  with  increasing  depth  of  water  is  interrupted  by  sample  17 
on  a  relatively  steep  slope  in  950  meters  of  Avater.  The  median  of 
sample  17  is  62  microns,  but  sample  18  situated  nearer  shore  in  250 
meters  less  Avater,  has  a  median  of  20  microns.  The  section  east- 
ward from  Aulalsivik.  likewise,  demonstrates  the  relative  lack  of 
influence  of  depth  of  Avater  on  the  texture.     Samples  20  and  21  lying 


72        ' '  MAEIOX  ' '   EXPEDITION    TO   DAVIS    STRAIT    AND   BAFFIN    BAY 

ill  less  than  150  meters  of  water  have  medians  of  7  and  2.3  microns, 
respectively,  but  sample  22  on  a  fairly  steep  slope  in  1,650  meters 
has  a  median  of  73  microns.  Samples  23,  24,  and  25  lying  in  about 
200  meters  of  Avater  in  a  region  of  uneven  sea  floor  have  medians 
of  44  to  162  microns. 

The  plienoinena  mentioned  above  demonstrate  that  the  texture  of 
the  sediments  is  strongly  influenced  by  the  submarine  topography. 
However,  in  reality  it  is  the  motion  of  the  sea  water  above  the  de- 
posits that  governs  the  size  of  the  particles  that  accumulate  in  the 
sediments.  The  movement  of  the  deep  water  is  deflected  and  ob- 
structed by  submarine  slopes  and  ridges.  In  this  manner  relatively 
strong  currents  are  produced  over  many  exposed  slopes  and  ridges.^ 
In  fa^t,  the  relative  coarseness  of  the  deposits  is  a  measure  of  the 
intensity  of  the  movement  of  the  lower  part  of  the  sea  water. 

Currents. — Smith  and  Mosby's  *^  detailed  investigation  of  the  cir- 
culation of  the  water  in  Da^is  Strait,  shows  that  a  strong  westerly 
current  sAvings  around  Cape  Farewell  and  up  the  west  coast  of 
Greenland.  At  various  intervals  as  far  north  as  latitude  75°,  parts 
of  it  bend  westAvard  and  slowly  cross  Davis  Strait,  where  they  join 
a  strong  southerly  current,  coming  from  Lancaster  Sound.  This 
southerh^  current  continues  down  the  east  coast  of  Baffin  Land  across 
Hudson  Strait  and  soutliAvard  along  the  coast  of  Labrador.  The 
dynamic  topographic  map  of  this  region  shoAvs  that  in  general  the 
movement  of  Avater  is  parallel  to  the  trend  of  the  submarine  slopes 
and  scarps  and  that  it  is  relatively  rapid  over  steep  slopes.  The 
greatest  intensity  of  circulation  is  in  the  upper  layers  of  the  Avater ; 
but  the  coincidence  of  the  relatively  rapid  movement  of  the  upper 
part  of  the  sea  Avater  with  the  coarseness  of  the  deposits  off  Cape 
Farewell,  off  Cumberland  Peninsula,  and  on  the  continental  slope 
off  Kesolution  Island  and  northern  Labrador,  demonstrates  that  in 
these  regions  the  loAver  part  of  the  sea  Avater,  especially  that  bathing 
the  sea  bottom,  move  Avith  significant  velocity.  HoAvever,  the 
moA'ement  of  the  deep  Avater  may  be  due  to  tides  and  not  gradient 
currents. 

The  extremely  fine  sediments  in  the  relatively  shalloAv  Avater  off 
Aulalsivik  lie  in  regions  in  Avhich  the  dynamic  gradient  of  the  sea 
water  is  slight.  This  indicates  that  the  circulation  of  the  surface 
Avater  is  sIoav.  The  deposition  of  sediments  having  medians  of 
7  and  2.3  microns,  in  Avater  less  than  150  meters  deep,  demonstrates 
that  the  loAver  part  of  the  Avater  also  is  quiescent.  The  Ioav  gravel 
content  likeAvise  argues  against  strong  current  action.  A  similar 
explanation  accounts  for  the  large  quantity  of  fine  particles  in 
sample  8,  about  100  miles  northeast  of  Cape  Murchison. 

The  coarseness  of  the  sediments  of  Hudson  Strait  indicates  that 
they  are  Avashecl  by  strong  currents.  Even  though  they  lie  in  575 
meters  of  Avater  they  are  very  Avell  sorted  and  have  a  median  of  208 
microns,  AAdiich  indicates  that  they  are  a  medium  to  fine  grained 
sand.  Smith  and  Mosby's  dynamic  topographic  map  indicates  only 
a  slight  circulation  of  Avater  in  this  region,  but  it  refers  to  move- 

-  See  P.  D.  Trask.  Op.  cit.,  pp.  28-33. 

« Edward  H.  Smith  and  Olav  Mosby,  The  Physical  Oceanography  of  Davis  Strait, 
pt.  2  of  Bulletin  19. 


EXPEDITIOX    TO   DAVIS   STItAIT   AND   BAFFIN    BAY        73 

juents  due  to  <iratlieiit  forces  and  not  to  tides.  The  liydrographic 
charts  issued  by  the  United  States  Xavy  show  currents  of  5  knots  in 
both  directions  throuoh  Hudson  Strait,  The  coarseness  of  the  sedi- 
ments demonstrates  that  these  currents  extend  with  significant  velo- 
city to  the  bottom  of  the  Strait. 

Sinuhirh^  the  dynamic  topographic  map  indicates  a  relatively  slow 
movement  of  water  over  the  well-sorted  fine-grained  sands  northeast 
of  Cape  Murchison.  Weeks  ^  rei:>orts  a  tide  of  25  to  35  feet  in  Cum- 
berland Bay  which  lies  northwest  of  this  area.  A  tide  of  such 
dimensions  necessitates  a  considerable  forward  and  backward  move- 
ment of  water.  As  the  sediments  east  of  Cape  Murchison  are  in  the 
l)ath  of  such  oscillations,  in  water  only  200  meters  deep,  it  is  evident 
they  should  be  coarse. 

Rock  fragments. — The  occurrence  of  gneiss,  quartzite,  and  granitic 
rocks  in  the  sediments  is  easily  explainable,  as  the  geologic  maps  and 
reports  of  Greenland,  Baffin  Land,  and  northern  Labrador  ^  clemon- 
strate  the  prevalence  of  pre-Cambrian  metamorphic  and  granitic 
rocks  throughout  this  area.  Basalt  occurs  on  Disko  Island,  which 
if  not  the  source  of  the  occasional  basalt  fragments,  at  least  indicates 
the  presence  of  basic  eruptives  in  the  general  region.  Kindle  ^  men- 
tions the  occurrence  of  Pleistocene  shells  in  the  lower  part  of  the  ice 
cap  in  west  Greenland  in  latitude  74°.  The  eroded  Pelecypod  shell 
in  sample  24  may  have  such  an  origin. 

HoAvever,  the  Avidespreacl  distribution  of  noncrystalline  limestone 
is  not  so  readily  explainable.  The  land  on  both  sides  of  Davis  Strait, 
in  the  region  from  which  the  sediments  come,  is  mapped  as  consist- 
ing almost  entirely  of  pre-Cambrian  formations.  Crystalline  lime- 
stones are  plentiful  in  certain  i^arts  of  the  pre-Cambrian,  but  the 
noncrystalline  aphanitic  character  of  the  limestone  fragments  in  the 
deposits  indicates  they  originated  elsewhere.  Excluding  the  sedi- 
ments east  of  Cape  Slurchison,  limestone  occurs  in  almost  every 
sample,  and  is  the  dominant  rock  type  in  most  of  the  deposits. 

Source  of  limestone. — The  ubiquitousness  of  the  limestone  and  its 
plentifulness  in  the  deposits  indicates  that  a  very  significant  propor- 
tion of  the  rock  fragments  carried  by  the  ice  consists  of  limestone. 
The  question  is  from  Avhere  did  the  limestone  come. 

Drift  ice  on  the  Avest  side  of  DaA^is  Strait  is  estimated  by  Smith  ^^ 
as  consisting  of  less  than  2  per  cent  berg  ice  and  more  than  98  per 
cent  pack  ice.  Shelf  ice,  extending  from  the  shore  seaAvard;  the  ice 
foot,  that  part  of  the  shelf  ice  attached  to  the  sea  bottom ;  and  anchor 
ice,  originating  on  the  sea  bottom  near  shore,  haA^e  opportunity  both 

^  L.  J.  AA'eeks,  Cumberland  Sound  Area,  Baffin  Land,  Can.  Geol.  Surv.  Sum.  Rep., 
1927  C,  p.  86,  1928. 

8  Robert  Bell,  Report  of  Exploration  of  Hudson  Strait  Region,  Can.  Geol.  Sur.  Sum.  Rep 
1897   (Ann.  Rep.  10)   A.  pp.  75-83,  1898. 

Geologic  Map  of  North  America,  U.  S.  Geol.  Surv,  1911. 

O.  B.  Boggild.  The  Geology  of  Greenland,  Greenland,  Publ.  Com.  Dir.  Geol.  and  Geog. 
Investigations  in  Greenland,  C.  A.  Reitzel,  Copenhagen,  pp.  185-231,  1928. 

L.  J.  Weeks,  op.  cit.,  pp.  84-95. 

Lauge  Koch,  Stratigraphy  of  Greenland,  Dissertation  for  Doctorate,  published  by 
Levin  and  Alunksgaard,  Copenhagen.  1929    (contains  good  bibliograi>hy). 

Geological  Map  of  World,  Preus.  Landesanstalt,  Berlin.  1930. 

»  E.  M.  Kindle.  Ice  Borne  Sediments  in  Canadian  and  Other  Arctic  Waters.  Am.  J.  S. 
v.  7.  p.  277,  1924. 

"  Edward  H.  Smith,  Arctic  Ice,  etc.,  pt.  3  of  Bulletin  19,  p.  190. 

68165—32 6 


74        ' '  MAEIOX  ' '   EXPEDITION    TO   DAVIS   STRAIT   AND   BAFFIN    BAY 

of  transporting  rock  fragments  and  of  forming  part  of  the  pack 
ice.  HoweATr.  the  proportion  of  the  pack  ice  of  such  origin  is 
probably  very  small.  Bergs  on  the  other  hand,  are  derived  from 
glaciers,  most  of  which  contain  considerable  debris.  Thus  even 
though  the  pack  ice  occupies  a  much  larger  volume  than  the  bergs, 
the  bergs  probably  contribute  many  more  rock  fragments  to  the 
sediments. 

Smith  ^^  estimates  that  TO  per  cent  of  the  bergs  that  flow  dow^n  the 
west  side  of  Davis  Strait  are  derived  from  glaciers  in  the  vicinity  of 
Disko  Island  near  latitude  70° ;  20  per  cent,  from  glaciers  flowing 
into  Melville  Bay,  about  latitude  75° ;  and  the  remaining  10  per  cent 
mostly  from  northern  Greenland  and  the  northern  archipelago.  A 
large  number  of  bergs  originate  on  the  east  side  of  Greenland,  and 
flow  around  Cape  Farewell  and  up  the  west  coast  of  Greenland,  but 
only  a  few  cross  Davis  Strait  and  flow  southward  in  the  Labrador 
current.^-  The  Labrador  current,  although  somewhat  interrupted, 
extends  across  the  mouth  of  Hudson  Strait;  consequently  bergs  or 
pack  ice  coming  through  Hudson  Strait,  in  all  probability  do  not 
flow  northward  in  Davis  Strait.  Therefore,  limestone  from  the 
Paleozoic  formations  in  the  vicinity  of  Hudson  Strait  presumably 
is  not  deposited  in  the  sediments  of  Davis  Strait  north  of  latitude 
62°. 

Boggild  ^^  found  no  limestone  fragments  in  his  detailed  investiga- 
tion of  the  bottom  deposits  off  the  east  coast  of  Greenland  between 
latitude  70°  and  74°.  This  leads  one  to  believe  that  the  bergs  arising 
north  of  this  region  carry  practically  no  limestone.  Very  little  non- 
crystalline limestone  is  reported  from  the  east  coast  of  Greenland 
south  of  this  area.^'^  Sample  26,  lying  off  Cape  Farewell  in  the  path 
of  the  bergs  arising  in  east  Greenland,  contains  no  limestone.  Conse- 
quently one  infers  that  almost  none  of  the  limestone  in  the  sediments 
of  Davis  Strait  comes  from  east  Greenland. 

Koch's  ^^  authoritative  treatise  of  the  stratigraphy  of  Greenland 
does  not  mention  the  occurrence  of  limestone  in  the  vicinity  of  Disko 
Bay.  However,  he  does  state  that  the  Agpat  formation  of  early 
Algonkian  age  consists  of  quartzite,  amphibolite,  marble,  dolomite, 
and  clay  shales  which  are  more  or  less  metamorphosed.  This  forma- 
tion outcrops  at  intervals  from  Nugsuak,  slightly  north  of  Disko  Bay, 
to  Inglefield  Gulf  in  North  Greenland.  From  Koch's  description 
of  the  formation  one  gathers  the  impression  that  the  amount  of  non- 
crystalline aphanitic  limestone  this  formation  would  supply  the 
glaciers  flowing  into  Disko  Bay,  would  not  constitute  a  large  propor- 
tion of  the  rock  fragments  carried  by  these  glaciers. 

Koch  ^^  in  1918  mentioned  the  prevalence  of  granitic  rocks  in  the 
vicinity  of  Melville  Bay ;  but  later  ^"  he  reports  the  probable  exist- 
ence of  the  Agpat  formation  in  this  region,  because  he  mentions  its 

"Op.  cit. 

12  E.  H.   Smith,  op.  cit,  pp.  74-78. 

"  O.  B.  Boggild,  Samples  of  the  Sea  Floor  Along  the  Coast  of  East  Greenland,  74%  to  70 
N.  L..  Med.  om  Gronl.  v.  28,  pp.  17-85,  1909. 
"  See  footnote  8. 

15  Op.  cit.,  pp.  14-15  and  54-58. 

16  Lauge  Koch,  Den  II  Thule-Ekpedition  til  Melville-Bugten  og  Gronlands  Nordkyst, 
1916-1918,  Geografisk  Tidskrift  Bind  24,  Heft  vi,  1918,  p.  221. 

1"  Lauge  Koch,  Stratigraphy  of  Greenland,  1929,  p.  14. 


75 

occurrence  between  Umanak  Fiord  and  Ino-lefield  Gulf.  He  thinks  ^^ 
the  southern  border  of  the  Paleozoic  geosyncline  of  north  Greenland 
coincides  with  the  present  border  of  the  inland  ice.  If  this  is  true, 
it  means  that  tlie  alaciers  floAvino-  into  Melville  Bay  probably  do  not 
carr}^  Paleozoic  limestone  fragments.  The  Agpat  formation,  as  was 
mentioned  previously,  does  not  seem  to  be  a  likely  source  of  un- 
metamorphosed  limestone.  Consequently  one  infers  that  the  bergs 
from  Melville  Bay  probably  do  not  carry  man}^  limestone  fragments. 

Paleozoic  limestone  is  plentiful  along  the  north  coast  of  Green- 
land, and  limestone  also  occurs  in  numerous  places  in  the  northern 
archipelago.  According  to  Smith, ^^  bergs  from  these  tAvo  regions 
form  10  per  cent  of  the  bergs  of  Davis  Strait.  One  can  not  assume 
that  the  rock  debris  they  carry  consists  entirely  of  limestone  frag- 
ments, but  since  the  glaciers  that  produce  limestone-bearing  bergs, 
flow  over  a  limestone  terrain  it  is  probable  that  the  concentration  of 
rock  fragments  in  the  ice  overlying  such  areas  w^ould  be  greater  than 
that  in  ice  overlying  a  gneiss  or  granite  region.  Therefore  the  lime- 
stone transported  by  the  bergs  from  north  Greenland  and  the  north- 
ern archipelago  may  constitute  more  than  10  per  cent  of  the  rock 
fragments  in  the  sediments  of  Davis  Strait.  Pack  ice  from  limestone 
regions,  and  bergs  from  Disko  and  Melville  Bays  presumably  con- 
tribute some  limestone  to  the  deposits,  but  if  they  do  not  add  enough 
to  account  for  the  large  quantit}^  of  limestone  in  the  sediments,  one 
must  consider  the  hypothesis  that  more  than  10  per  cent  of  the  bergs 
of  Davis  Strait  have  sources  other  than  Disko  and  Melville  Bays. 
Further  study  of  the  problem  is  needed  to  solve  it  satisfactorily. 
It  w^ould  be  especially  advantageous  to  know  the  types  of  rock  frag- 
ments carried  by  the  berg-forming  glaciers. 

Comments  of  Lauge  Koch. — The  question  of  the  origin  of  the 
limestone  fragments  in  the  sediments  was  referred  to  Dr.  Lauge 
Koch,  who  has  spent  many  years  in  Greenland.  He  kindly  replied 
as  follows  i^*^ 

Along  the  west  coast  of  Greenland  from  Cape  Farewell  to  at  least  70°  North 
latitude  noncrystalline  limestone  is  entirely  absent.  The  whole  of  west  Green- 
land as  far  as  Disko  Bay  is  made  up  of  gneisses,  granites,  etc.,  with  the  exception 
of  a  small  area,  near  Cape  Farewell,  of  red  sandstone  (age  probably  pre- 
Cambrian)  which  may  here  be  left  out  of  consideration.  I  think  we  know  the 
land  from  Cape  Farewell  to  Disko  Bay  so  well  that  we  are  safe  in  concluding 
that  noncrystalline  limestone  does  not  occur  along  this  whole  stretch,  nor  do 
the  moraines  of  the  inland  ice  in  any  place  seem  to  indicate  the  presence  of 
limestone-bearing  formations  below\the  ice  cap. 

From  70°  North  latitude  northward  to  Cape  Alexander  (the  westernmost 
point  of  Greenland)  there  is  not  the  slightest  indication  of  noncrystalline  lime- 
stone. The  moraines  of  the  inland  ice  are  here  less  well  known,  but  everywhere 
where  they  have  been  examined — I  may  here  speak  of  my  own  investigations 
along  practically  the  whole  coast — the  moraines  contain  no  sediments.  (An  old 
statement  about  the  finding  of  a  block  of  red  sandstone  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
inland  ice  east  of  Umanak  has  not  been  confirmed.)  In  the  interior  of  the 
Umanak  district  crystalline  limestone  and  marble  of  undoubted  pre-Cambrian 
age  occurs  in  association  with  granites  and  gneisses. 

As  you  no  doubt  know,  Disko  Island,  parts  of  the  Nugsuak  Peninsula  and 
the  regions  north  thereof,  including  parts  of  the   Svartenhuk  Peninsula,  are 


18  Op.  cit,  pp.  66-67. 

1®  Loc.  cit. 

-"Letter  of  Mai.  4,  1931. 


76 

partiallj^  made  up  of  sediments  up  to  1,000  meters  thick,  consisting  largely  of 
sandstones  and  shales.  If  limestones  are  present  here,  they  form  at  any  rate, 
only  quite  subordinate  beds  and  are  highly  arenaceous.  As  far  as  I  remember, 
limestone  is  not  mentioned  in  the  literature  concerning  this  region.  The  age  of 
the  sediments  is  late  Cretaceous  to  lower  Tertiary  (mostly  Senonian,  Paleocene, 
and  Eocene,  with  plant  beds). 

Along  the  stretch  between  Cape  York  and  the  Humboldt  Glacier  we  find 
sediments  more  than  1,000  meters  thick,  consisting  of  conglomerates  and  sand- 
stone, greywacke,  and  dolomite  (Thule  formation,  age  late  pre-Cambrian), 
but  it  is  characteristic  of  this  formation  that  it  contains  no  limestone  what- 
ever, only  dolomite.  On  Inglefield  Land  south  of  Humbolt  Glacier  we  find 
in  two  places  within  the  sandstone  series  of  the  Thule  formation,  thin  beds 
with  traces  of  lime,  but  here  the  Thule  formation  is  overlain  by  2O0  to  300 
meters  of  limestone  (age  lower  Middle  Cambrian  and  Ozarkian). 

North  of  Humboldt  Glacier,  the  greater  part  of  Washington  Land  and  the 
southern  part  of  Hall  Land  consist  of  limestone  (age  Cambrian  up  to  and 
including  Silurian)  ;  the  thickness  is  at  least  800  meters. 

On  crossing  to  Baffin  Land,  which  I  do  not  know  personally,  we  find  around 
the  southern  lakes  west  of  Frobisher  Bay  extensive,  but  probably  very  thin 
beds  of  limestone,  presumably  of  Ordovician  age.  The  Danish  "  Godthaab " 
expedition  in  1928  went  ashore  for  a  few  hours  on  the  east  coast  of  Baffin 
Land,  as  far  as  I  remember  in  about  67°  North  latitude,  and  from  this  place 
brought  back  some  few  sediments,  which,  as  far  as  I  recollect,  consisted  mostly 
of  shales,  but  also,  I  think,  contained  some  limestone.  In  the  northern  part 
of  Baffin  Land  sediments  likewise  occur,  chiefly  sandstone  (Tertiary),  and 
farther  toward  the  interior  of  Lancaster  Sound  we  find  the  old  localities  with 
Ordovician  and  Silurian  limestone.  North  Devon  is  very  little  known,  but 
on  the  west  side  sediments  probably  occur.  As  is  well  known,  Schey  found 
limestone,  representing  several  of  the  Paleozoic  formations,   in  Jones   Sound. 

As  you  will  see,  it  seems  quite  impossible  that  the  limestone  on  the  bottom 
of  Davis  Strait  has  come  from  west  Greenland.  A  transport  of  limestone  from 
Kane  Basin  during  the  maximum  of  the  glacial  epoch  is  not  quite  improbable. 
There  is  no  doubt  that  the  entire  eastern  part  of  Kane  Basin  has  been  built 
up  of  Cambrian  and  Ozarkian  intraformational  limestone,  and  that  these  for- 
mations, because  of  their  softness,  have  been  removed  by  erosion.  On  Carey 
Islands  in  Smith  Sound,  which  are  exclusively  made  up  of  gneiss,  I  have 
found  loose  blocks  of  dolomite,  but  they  must  have  been  transported  by 
glaciers  or  icebergs. 

As  to  conditions  along  the  west  side  of  Baffin  Bay  and  Davis  Strait  I  must 
speak  with  the  greatest  caution.  It  is  possible  that  the  older  Paleozoic  beds 
formerly  may  have  had  a  far  wider  distribution  on  Baffin  Land,  from  which 
they  have  been  removed  and  during  Pleistocene  time  transported  by  glaciers 
into  Davis  Strait.  Recently,  however,  it  has  been  pointed  out.  no  doubt  rightly, 
by  an  Indian  geologist,  that  as  a  rule  glaciers  do  not  carry  morainic  material 
very  far.  In  this  connection  we  may  consider  the  formation  of  the  Newfound- 
land Banks.  It  seems  not  easy  to  explain  that  the  material  of  which  the  New- 
foundland Banks  consist  was  transported  by  icebergs  all  the  way  from  Disko 
Bay.  Experience  seems  to  show  that  icebergs  rather  soon  discharge  the  mo- 
rainic material  they  may  contain.  Usually  morainic  debris  occurs  either  on 
top  of  the  bergs  or  in  the  form  of  very  marked  stripes  in  the  bergs.  These 
bands  naturally  form  weak  points,  and  when  warmed  by  the  sun  appear  as 
furrows  and  cause  the  bergs  to  split  along  these  stripes. 

It  is  doubtless  quite  right  that  morainic  material  is  not  transported  very 
far  by  icebergs.  But  there  may  be  other  explanations.  I  do  not  know  how  it 
sounds  in  American  ears  that  Baffin  Bay  might  represent  a  subsided  area,  in 
ether  words  that  the  area  of  Baffin  Bay  has  once  been  a  land  area.  In  Stratig- 
raphy of  Greenland  I  have  pointed  out  that  in  my  opinion  there  are  slight  indi- 
cations of  a  geosyncline  in  the  present  area  of  Davis  Strait.  In  this  connection 
I  may  mention  the  rather  deeply  subsided  late  Algonkian  sediments  both  near 
Cape  Farewell  and  in  the  Cape  York  district,  as  well  as  possibly  in  the  vicinity 
of  Disko  Bay.  But  the  development  of  the  geosyncline  in  Davis  Strait  seems 
not  to  have  continued. 

I  am  afraid  it  will  be  very  difficult  to  explain  the  presence  of  these  large 
quantities  of  pure  limestone  on  the  bottom  of  Davis  Strait.     That  they  should 


77 

originate  from  Disko  Bay  or  Umanak  Fjord,  I  would  consider  quite  impossible. 
Nor  does  it  seem  probable  that  they  orij;inate  from  Kane  Basin.  In  such  case 
an  exceedingly  strong  erosion  in  connection  with  an  improbably  long  transport 
toward  the  soutli  by  the  aid  of  icebergs  must  have  taken  place  here  during 
glacial  times.  A  transport  from  Baffin  Land  seems  on  the  basis  of  our 
extremely  slight  knowledge  of  the  geology  of  this  region  to  be  the  most  natural 
explanation,  provided  we  will  not  exiilain  the  process  by  the  aid  of  considerable 
subsidences  round  Davis  Strait,  Wegener's  theory,  etc. 

Frosted  sand  grahis. — The  frosted  well-rounded  grains  of  sand 
that  constitute  a  very  minor  part  of  the  sediments,  may  be  of  Eolian 
origin,  but  they  also  may  be  produced  in  water  by  attrition.  The 
apparent  decrease  in  plentifulness  of  polished  constituents  away  from 
shore  accords  with  the  Eolian  hypothesis.  However,  even  if  these 
frosted  grains  are  of  wind  origin,  the  follow^ing  questions  arise :  Were 
they  blown  to  the  neighborhood  of  their  final  resting  place,  either 
through  air  or  along  the  surface  of  the  ice;  were  they  blown  onto 
ice  and  then  transported  to  their  place  of  burial;  or  w^ere  they  carried 
relatively  long  distances  through  the  water  by  currents?  Unfortu- 
nately, iiasufficient  data  are  available  to  answer  these  questions. 

Finely  divided  calcium  carhoriate. — Calcium  carbonate  forms  a 
large  part  of  the  fine  constituents  in  most  of  the  sediments;  but  it 
has  not  been  practicable  to  investigate  this  finely  divided  CaCOg. 
It  may  be  a  chemical  precipitate,  it  may  result  from  w^ind-blown 
calcium  carbonate  dust ;  it  may  be  a  deposit-like  clay  resulting  from 
particles  suspended  in  the  water,  or  it  may  be  ice  borne. 

In  view  of  the  apparent  absence  of  a  local  limestone  source  it  seems 
that  the  ice-borne  origin  is  more  probable.  This  is  also  supported 
by  the  observation  that  the  sediments  off  Cape  Murchison  are  de- 
ficient in  limestone  fragments  and  that  sample  8  from  the  same 
region  contains  a  large  amount  of  fine  constituents,  but  almost  no 
CaCOs.  It  would  appear  from  this  that  the  source  of  debris  in  the 
Cape  Murchison  sediments  is  to  a  large  extent  the  adjacent  coast  of 
Baffin  Land  and  only  to  a  small  degree,  floating  ice  from  distant 
areas.  Sample  20,  off  Aulalsivik,  contains  no  limestone  rock  frag- 
ments, and  although  it  is  a  fine-grained  deposit,  it  contains  little 
CaCOg.  In  other  parts  of  Davis  Strait,  limestone  is  a  plentiful  con- 
stituent of  the  gravel  and  also  calcium  carbonate  particles  form  a 
significant  part  of  the  fine  fraction  of  the  deposits.  Furthermore, 
because  of  its  softness,  limestone  is  readily  abraded  by  ice  action; 
therefore,  one  would  expect  that  a  considerable  quantity  of  finely 
divided  CaCOs  would  be  trajDped  in  adjacent  ice.  If  this  were 
carried  out  to  sea  it  would  form  a  deposit  relatively  rich  in  detrital 
CaCOs.  Thus,  the  ice-borne  origin  of  the  calcium  carbonate  is  in 
accord  with  all  the  known  facts.  Whether  or  not  it  is  the  true 
explanation  will  depend  on  future  work. 

CHARACTERISTICS  OF  SEDIMENTS  OF  ICE-BORNE  ORIGIN 

Two  factors  dominate  the  formation  of  sediments  of  ice-borne 
origin;  one  the  heterogeneous  nature  of  the  detritus  brought  by  the 
ice,  and  the  other  the  action  of  tlie  currents.  The  debris  brought  by 
the  ice  is  very  poorly  sorted,  and  if  it  falls  in  a  region  in  which 
currents  are  w^eak,  the  coefficient  of  sorting  of  the  deposits  will  be 


78 


very  large  and  the  coefficient  of  skewness  may  differ  greatly  from 
unity.  If,  however,  the  detritus  falls  in  a  region  of  strong  current 
action  the  deposits  will  be  well  sorted,  that  is,  the  coefficient  of  sort- 
ing will  be  small;  but  the  skewness  will  be  much  larger  than  unity 
because  of  the  plentifulness  of  rock  fragments,  which  cause  the  first 
quartile  to  be  large.  These  qualities  of  the  coefficient  of  sorting  and 
skewness  may  not  be  unique  for  deposits  of  ice-borne  origin,  but 
they  should  aid  in  the  determination  of  the  manner  of  formation 
of  sediments  of  unknoAvn  derivation.  However,  as  has  long  been 
recognized,  the  presence  of  faceted  subrounded  rock  fragments  is  an 
important  diagnostic  criterion  of  an  ice-borne  origin. 

Table  1. — General  description 


Sample  No.  '— 

Station 
No.  2— 

Serial 
No.  3— 

Latitude 

Longi- 
tude 

Depth 

(meters) 

Description 

Davis    Strait,    longi- 
tudinal section: 
1 

1016 
1019 
1020 

1021 
1022 
1024 
1025 

1027 
1028 

1029 

1030 

1031 

1032 
1033 
1037 

1041 
1042 
1044 

1050 

1051 
1053 
1060 

1058 

1056 
1054 

1081 
1098 

601 
599 
609 

604 
607 
612 
605 

610 

1577 

1579 

614 

1580 

615 
1578 
1576 

600 
608 
611 

1575 

602 
613 
603 

1571 

1572 
1573 

1574 
1570 

67 
66 
65 

65 
65 
64 
64 

63 
63 

63 

63 

63 

63 
63 
62 

61 
61 
61 

60 

59 
59 
59 

58 

58 

58 

59 
52 

13 
12 
54 

37 
23 
35 

7 

56 
52 

48 

44 

41 

29 
17 
19 

26 
32 
32 

53 

40 

48 
27 

55 

33 

52 

32 

55 

59 
59 
59 

59 
59 
59 
59 

60 
61 

62 

62 

63 

62 
62 
59 

59 
60 
62 

64 

63 
63 
59 

60 

61 
62 

44 
51 

20 
47 
26 

5 
4 
3 
6 

46 
25 

11 

44 

21 

43 

5 

30 

32 

26 

5 

43 

52 
38 
48 

54 

54 

52 

50 
36 

1,270 
700± 
570 

448 
420 
510 
625 

290 
210 

210 

250 

200 

201 

263 

1,500 

2,300 
950 
700± 

575 

65 

152 

1,650 

190 

149 
102 

462 
855 

Gray  clay  and  pebbles. 

2                        

Gray  silt,  sand,  and  pebbles. 

3 

Gray  fine-grained  sand  and  peb- 

4 

bles. 
Do. 

5 . 

Gray  sand,  silt  and  pebbles. 

8                         

Do. 

7 

Do. 

Cape  Murchison: 
Northeast— 

8 

Do. 

9                   -  - 

Gray  fine-grained  sand  and  peb- 

10           

bles. 
BufE  fine-grained  sand  and  peb- 

11  

bles. 
Gray  fine-grained  sand  and  peb- 

12 

bles. 
Buff  sand,  silt,  and  pebbles. 

Southeast- 
is                

Do. 

14 

Do. 

15                 

Gray  clay,  silt,  and  pebbles. 

Resolution        Island, 
east: 
16 

Gray  clay  and  pebbles. 

17 

Buff  sand,  silt,  and  pebbles. 

18 

Buff  fine-grained  sand  and  peb- 

Hudson Strait: 
19 

bles. 
Do. 

Aulalsivik,  east: 

20                       

Gray  clay,  silt,  and  pebbles. 

21 

Gray  clay. 

22       

Gray  silt  and  pebbles. 

Mount      Blow      Me 
Down,  east: 
23                 

Gray  fine-grained  sand  and  peb- 

24  

bles. 
Do. 

25          

Gray  clay. 

Cape  Farwell,  south: 
26. 

Do. 

Southern     Labrador, 
east: 
27 

Do. 

1  Writer's  sample  number.  ,.      ^  ^.       ,  ,  ,    •     o    -.i        a   at^^k,- 

2  Station  number  from  Marion  expedition.    See  oceanographic  station  table  m  Smith  and  Mo^Dj , 
op.  m  cit. 

i  Serial  number  in  writer's  general  collection. 


' '  MAEIOX  ' '   EXPEDITIOX    TO   DAVIS   STRAIT   AXD   BAFFIX   BAY       79 
Table  2. — Mechanical  analyses 


Statistical  constants 

Sample  Xo. 
1 

Q, 

2 

M 
3 

Q3 

4 

So 
5 

Sk 
6 

LogSk 

7 

Davis  Strait,  longitudinal  section: 

1 -    

70.0 
210.0 
430.0 

1050.  0 
228.0 

1100.0 
230.0 

-      250.0 
1500.  0 
715.0 
800.0 
430.0 

1100.0 
184.0 
92.0 

35.0 
248.0 
175.0 

390.0 

16.0 

12.5 

300.0 

190.0 
340.0 
345.0 

340.0 

22.0 

5.0 
145.0 
190.0 
260.0 
163.0 
185.0 
135.0 

85.0 
210.0 
222.0 
155.0 
200.0 

182.0 
131.0 
21.0 

5.9 
62.0 
20.0 

208.0 

7.0 

2.3 

73.0 

44.0 
162.0 
125.0 

180.0 

9.3 

1.3 
60.0 
73.0 
133.0 
95.0 
28.0 
35.0 

1.3 
125.0 
131.0 
60.0 
127.0 

65.0 

62.0 

5.0 

1.5 
1.4 
3.0 

120.0 

2.9 
.62 

5.  7 

4.5 

47.0 

5.1 

60.0 

2.4 

7.35 
1.87 
2.42 
2.81 
1.55 
6.37 
2.56 

13.90 
3.46 
2.33 
3.64 
1.84 

4.12 
1.74 
4.30 

4.83 
13.35 
7.62 

1.80 

2.35 
4.50 
7.25 

6.50 
2.69 
8.24 

2.38 

3.03 

3.65 
.60 
.87 

2.06 
.82 
.91 
.44 

.05 
4.24 
1.90 
2.00 
1.36 

2.16 
.67 
1.04 

1.51 
.09 
1.31 

1.08 

.95 

1.47 

.32 

.44 
.61 
1.13 

.63 

.61 

-fO.  55 

2                                         - - 

-.22 

3                                                             -     - 

-.06 

4                          .               -   -- 

+.31 

5                                                         .  

-.09 

6                -----   

-.04 

-.35 

Cape  Murchison: 
Northeast— 

8                                               -       -  - 

-1.25 

9      .  -     

+.63 

10                                                    

+.28 

11 

+.30 

12                                                   .   -  --- 

+.13 

Southeast— 

13                          

+.33 

14.. 

-.18 

15            -          .  -       

+.02 

Resolution  Island,  east: 

16. 

+.  18 

17                                                       -  --. 

-1.04 

18 

+.12 

Hudson  Strait: 
19 

+.03 
-  02 

Aulalsivik,  east: 
20 

21 

+•  17 

22 

-.49 

Mount  Blow  Me  Down,  east: 
23 

-.35 

24 

-  22 

25 

+.05 

Cape  Farewell,  south: 

26                                

-.20 

Southern  Labrador,  east: 

27        -                   --       

-.22 

Explanation:  Qi,  first  quartile;   ^I,  median,  Qs,  third  quartile;   So,  coefficient  of  sorting;   Sk,  coefficient 
of  skewness;   Log  Sk,  logarithm  of  coefficient  of  Sk. 

T-\BLE  3. — Mechanieal  analyses 


Size  fractions 

Sample  Xo. 

1 

Gravel, 
1-30  milli- 
meters 

2 

Sand, 

0.05-1 

millimeter 

3 

Silt.        '       Clay, 
0.005-0.05      0.001-0.005 
millimeter    millimeter 

4                     5 

Colloid, 

0-0.001 

millimeter 

6 

Davis  Strait,  longitudinal  section: 

l._ 

9 
8 
15 
26 
12 
26 
10 

18 
29 
21 
23 
13 

26 

20 
71 
64 
62 
72 
46 
63 

39 
62 
69 
59 
75 

21 
9 
6 
5 

8 
14 
12 

9 
4 

7 

14 

34 

7 
8 
4 
4 
7 
8 

12 
3 
2 
4 
3 

3 
3 
12 

16 

2                                  -.                  -       - 

6 

3 

4-. -       -   ,   . 

2 

5 

4 

6 

- 

Cape  Murchison: 
Northeast— 

8 

22 

9 

2 

10 

1 

11 

4 

12 

1 

Southeast— 

13 

2 

14 

2                    79                    14 

2 

15 

4                    30                    41 

13 

80 


MARION        EXPEDITION    TO   DAVIS   STRAIT   AND   BAFFIN   BAY 


Table  3. — Mechanical  analyses — Continued 


Size  fractions 

Sample  No. 

1 

Gravel, 
1-30  milli- 
meters 

2 

Sand, 

0.05-1 

millimeter 

3 

Silt, 
0.005-0.05 
millimeter 

4 

Clay, 
0.001-0.005 
millimeter 

5 

Colloid, 

0-0.001 

millimeter 

6 

Resolution  Island,  east: 

16-   

4 
15 
12 

8 

3 

1 
18 

11 
16 
15 

18 

0 

17 
38 
30 

74 

10 
4 
39 

36 

58 

34 
17 

28 

8 

48 
36 
20 

26 

18 

28 
10 
16 

4 

27 
23 
11 

12 

5 

7 

5 
20 

17 

17                -                     --     - -  - 

20 

18                                                            -  -  - 

14 

Hudson  Strait: 

19                                           ...     

6 

Aulalsivik,  east: 

20                          

12 

21                                                  - . 

36 

22         

12 

Mount  Blow  Me  Down,  east: 

23                                                           -     - 

16 

24 

3 

25                                                  -     -.  . 

49  1                  12 

17 

Cape  Farewell,  south: 

26 

Southern  Labrador,  east: 

27                                               .._--.. 

60 
10 

10 
50 

7 
20 

Table  4. — Details  of  sand  and  gravel 


Sample  No. 


Davis  Strait,  longitudinal  sec- 
tion: 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

Cape  Murchison: 
Northeast— 

8 

9 

10 

11 

12 

Southeast — 

13 

14 

15 

Resolution  Island,  east: 

16 

17 

18 

Hudson  Strait: 

19 

Aulalsivik,  east: 

20 

21 

22 

Mount  Blow  Me  Down,  east 

23 

24 

25 

Cape  Farewell,  south: 

26 

Southern  Labrador,  east: 

27 


Coarse 
gravel, 
3-30  milli- 
meters 


4.3 
5.5 
4.1 
9.5 
8.1 
17.2 
6.0 


9.5 
20.0 

4.7 
18.4 

2.8 

19.4 
0.0 
2.1 

2.3 
9.1 
2.7 

3.2 

2.9 
0.6 
9.1 

2.3 
6.5 
2.6 

9.4 

0.0 


Fine  gravel 
1-3  milli- 
meters 


5.1 
2.2 
10.9 
16.5 
3.3 
9.1 
4.0 


8.6 
9.0 
16.3 
4.6 
9.8 

6.5 
1.8 
2.0 

1.9 
6.2 
8.9 

4.7 

0.0 
0.9 


8.7 
9.9 
12.2 


0.0 


Coarse 
sand,  0.5-1 
millimeter 


1.2 
1.0 
7.3 
12.3 
2.0 
5.1 
4.4 


2.6 
4.5 
9.8 
6.3 

8.7 

6.5 
0.7 
2.2 

1.4 
4.2 
3.0 

8.3 

0.7 
0.7 
3.6 

3.0 
5.2 

5.8 

5.2 
0.0 


Medium 
sand,  0.25- 
0.05  mill- 
meter 


1.6 
2.6 
14.8 
13.1 
4.4 
6.4 


3.6 
8.5 

12.0 
8.5 

17.1 


0.9 
3.5 

1.6 
5.2 
4.2 

25.4 

0.7 
0.7 

5.4 

4.4 
7.1 

7.7 

12.0 
0.2 


Fine 

sand,  0.125- 

0.25  milli 

meters 


5.4 
49.1 
33.8 
27.3 
53.4 
22.6 
34.0 


21.0 
33.4 
35.6 
19.4 
37.4 

18.7 
51.7 
11.2 

4.8 
14.0 
12.0 

32.3 

5.4 
1.3 
19.6 

17.2 
37.2 
22.1 

32.3 

3.0 


Very  fine 
sand,  0.05- 
0.125  milli- 
meters 


11.6 
18.2 
8.3 
8.9 
12.6 
11.6 
17.7 


11.6 
16.0 
11.8 
24.8 
11.6 

21.0 
26.4 
12.9 

9.1 
14.7 
11.3 

8.3 

3.1 

1.2 

10.5 

11.8 
8.5 
13.5 

11.4 

6.8 


Marion"  expedition  to  davis  strait  and  Baffin  bay     81 

Table  5. — General  (hitti 


Sample  No. 
1 

Per  cent 

ignition 

loss 

2 

Per  cent 
nitrogen 

3 

Per  cent 
CaCOa 

4 

Rock  type 
5 

Relative 
frosting 
of  grains 

6 

Davis  Strait,  longitudi- 
nal section: 

14.0 
5.8 
7.9 
3.9 
8.0 

11.3 
9.5 

4.6 
2.0 
2.2 
4.5 
2.4 

3.2 
3.3 
10.1 

11.4 
15.5 
18.2 

5.7 

8.7 
20.5 

12.8 

15.0 

8.1 
9.1 

10.6 

16.7 

0.07 
.08 
.08 
.08 
.08 
.06 
.08 

.09 
.04 
.04 
.09 
.05 

.08 
.05 
.08 

.09 
.08 
.06 

.06 

.20 
.08 
.06 

.07 

.07 
.07 

.06 

.06 

20 

1 
15 

4 
13 
20 
20 

3 
4 
2 
3 

1 

2 
3 
16 

20 
21 
40 

15 

6 

28 
22 

42 

20 
17 

24 

30 

Quartzite,  limestone,  gneiss 

1 

2 

Limestone,  granite,  hornblendite 

Granite— quartzite 

2 

3 

3 

4 

(ineiss,  lirasetone,  hornblendite 

Granite— limestone -.-  -- 

2 

5 

3 

6 

Limestone—  Gneiss,  granite 

3 

7 

Limestone— hornblendite,  granite.- . 
Granite— quartzite-  -  - 

1 

Cape  Murchison: 
Northeast— 

3 

9 

Limestone,  gneiss,  granite.-  ..     .     . 

3 

10 

Quartzite,  gneiss— granite,  limestone. 
Gneiss,  granite— limestone.     ..  - 

3 

11 

2 

12 

Quartzite,  gneiss ..  -     .-. 

3 

Southeast— 
13 

Gneiss— quartzite .. 

2 

Quartzite 

2 

15 

Limestone— gneiss,  quartzite 

Limestone,  hornblendite 

2 

Resolution  Island,  East: 
10 

2 

17 

Tvimestone— quartzite -. 

2 

18 

Gneiss,  granite,    limestone .-- 

2 

Hudson  Strait: 
19 

Limestone— gneiss,  quartzite,  basalt. 
Granite 

3 

Aulalsivik,  East: 
20 

21 

Gneiss..  

2 

22 

Limestone— granite,  gneiss 

1 

Mount  Blow  Me  Down, 
East: 
23                       

Hornblendite  —  basalt,  limestone, 
quartzite. 

I>imestone— basalt,  shell,  granite 

Gneiss — limestone ..        .     .     . 

2 

24     

2 

25 

2 

Cape  Farewell,  south: 
26 

Gneiss,  quartzite ..  . 

1 

Southern  Labrador,  east: 
07 

2 

Rock  types  given  in  order  of  decreasing  plentifulness 
small  quantities. 


Types  preceded  by  a  dash  are  present  in  only 


O 


c^     z? 


< 

cc:  -Z. 


§«s. 


Ul 


O^ 


s 


CO   LU  o§^ 


G 


\C'^..L&^^ 


t^^ 


^  y 


II