THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
LOS ANGELES
The RALPH D. REED LIBRARY
BWAKTMEOT OF GEOLOGY
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA
LOS ANGELES, CALIF.
ROBEBT DICK
ROBERT DICK
BAKER, OF THURSO
GEOLOGIST AND BOTANIST
BY SAMUEL SMILES, LL.D.
AUTHOR OF "LIFE OF A SCOTCH NATURALIST" '• SELF-HELP " "THRIFT"
' ' CHARACTER ' ' ETC.
WITH A PORTRAIT AND NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS
'In Nature's infinite book of secrecy
A little I can read."
SlIAKESPEARE.
'The heights by great men reached and kept
Were not attained by sudden flight;
But they, wh le their companions slept,
Were toiling upwards in the night."
LONGFELLOW.
NEW YORK
HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS
FRANKLIN SQUARE
BY SAMUEL SMILES.
' ; with Illustrations of Character, Conduct, and Perseverance. A
New Edition. 12mo, Cloth, $1 00 ; 4to, Paper, 20 cents.
CHARACTER. 12mo, Cloth, $1 00.
THRIFT. 12mo, Cloth, $1 00.
DUTY ; with Illustrations of Courage, Patience, and Endurance. 12mo, Cloth,
$1 00 ; 4to, Paper, 15 cents.
HISTORY OF THE HUGUENOTS. The Huguenots: their Settlements,
Churches, and Industries in England and Ireland. With an Appendix
relating to the Huguenots in America. Crown 8vo, Cloth, $2 00.
THE HUGUENOTS AFTER THE REVOCATION. The Hnunenots in
France after the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes: with a Visit to the
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LIFE OF THE STEPHENSONS. The Life of George Stephenson, and of
his Son Rohert Stephenson ; comprising, also, a History of the Invention
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merons Illustrations. 8vo, Cloth, $3 00.
ROUND THE WORLD; including a Residence in Victoria, and a Jonrney
by Rail across North America. By a Boy. Edited by SAMFKI. SMII.KS.
With Illustrations. 12mo, Cloth, $1 50.
LIFE OF A SCOTCH NATURALIST: Thomas Edward, Associate of the
Linnsean Society. With Portrait and Illustrations. 12mo, Cloth, $1 60.
ROBERT DICK. Robert Dick, Baker of Thurso ; Geologist and Botanist.
With Portrait and Illustrations. 12mo, Cloth, $1 50.
JAMES NASMYTH. James Nasmyth, Engineer. An Autobiography. Ed-
ited by SAMCBL SMILBS. With Portrait and Illustrations. 12mo, Cloth,
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p«r, 20 cents. .
PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW Top*.
gent by mail, postage prepaid, to any part of the United States or Canada,
on receipt of the price.
Geology
Library
PREFACE.
THE preparation of this book has occupied me at
intervals during several years. It would have been
published before the Life of a Scotch Naturalist, but
for want of the requisite materials.
I have to thank my reviewers, one and all, for their
favourable notices of that work. It has, however, been
objected that I should have culled my last example of
Self-Help from a career not already concluded, and
exposed the Scotch Naturalist, after his long unmerited
neglect, to the harder trial of intrusive patronage, to
which my premature biography was likely to expose
him.
Whatever truth there may be in this objection, it
certainly does not apply in the present case. Robert
Dick died twelve years ago, without any recognition of
his services to the cause of science, and without any of
that Royal Help which, as in the case of Edward, is
likely to render the later years of his life more free
from care and anxiety.
The first account that I heard of Robert Dick was
from the lips of the late Sir Roderick Murchison. He
860880
PREFACE.
delivered a speech at Leeds on the occasion of the
meeting of the British Association, which was held
there in September 1858.
" In pursuing my researches in the Highlands,"
said the Baronet, " and going beyond Sutherland into
Caithness, it was my gratification a second time to meet
with a remarkable man in the town of Thurso, named
Robert Dick, a baker by trade. I am proud to call
him my distinguished friend. When I went to see him,
he spread out before me a map of Caithness and pointed
out its imperfections. Mr. Dick had travelled over the
whole county in his leisure hours, and was thoroughly
acquainted with its features. He delineated to me, by
means of some flour which he spread out on his baking
board, not only its geographical features, but certain
geological phenomena which he desired to impress upon
my attention. Here is a man who is earning his daily
bread by his hard work ; who is obliged to read and
study by night ; and yet who is able to instruct the
Director-General of the Geographical Society.
" But this is not half of what I have to tell you of
Robert Dick. When I became better acquainted with
this distinguished man, and was admitted into his
sanctum — which few were permitted to enter — I found
there busts of Byron, of Sir Walter Scott, and other
great poets. I also found there books, carefully and
beautifully bound, which this man had been able to
PREFACE. vii
purchase out of the savings of his single bakery. I also
found that Robert Dick was a profound botanist. I
found, to my humiliation, that this baker knew infinitely
more of botanical science — ay, ten times more — than I
did ; and that there were only some twenty or thirty
British plants that he had not collected. Some he had
obtained as presents, some he had purchased, but the
greater portion had been accumulated by his own
industry in his native county of Caithness. These
specimens 'were all arranged in most beautiful order,
with their respective names and habitats ; and he is so
excellent a botanist that he might well have been a
professed ornament of Section D [Zoology and Botany].
I have mentioned these facts," concluded the Baronet,
" in order that the audience may deduce a practical
application."
This notice of Robert Dick, by a man of so much
eminence as Sir Roderick Murchison, interested me
greatly. His perseverance in the cause of Science,
while pursuing the occupations of his daily labour — his
humility, his modesty, and his love of nature — were
things well worthy of being commemorated. But I was
at that time unable to follow up my inquiries. I could
merely mention him in Self-Help, which was published
in the following year, as an instance of cheerful, horest
working, and of energetic effort to make the most of
small means and ordinary opportunities.
PREFACE.
Many years passed. Robert Dick died in 1866,
Was it possible that he had left any memoranda on
which a memoir of his life and labours could be written ?
On inquiry I found that many of his letters were still
in existence. I believe that I have been successful in
obtaining the greater part of them, or, at all events,
those which are the most interesting. In fact, by means
of these letters the story of Dick's life has in a great
measure been told by himself.
One of his principal correspondents was the late
Hugh Miller, author of My Schools and Schoolmasters,
The Old Red Sandstone, and other geological works.
His son, Mr. Hugh Miller, of the Geological Survey, has
kindly sent me Dick's letters to his father; though
Hugh Miller's letters to Dick have not yet reached me.
They are supposed to be in Australia.
Mr. Charles W. Peach, A.L.S., one of Dick's best
friends, has sent me all Dick's letters to him, together
with much other valuable information as to his life and
character. But perhaps the best of Dick's letters —
those containing his references to his private life —
were those written to his sister, principally for her
amusement ; and these have been kindly placed in
my hands by Dick's brother-in-law, Mr. Falconer of
Haddington.
I am also indebted to Dr. Meiklejohn, to Dr.
Bobcrt Brown, F.L.S., for many letters; and to the
PREFACE.
Rev. William Miller, A.M., Thurso, for the letters sent
by Dick to his uncle, the late Mr. John Miller, F.G.S.
Among those who have also favoured me with
\ aluable information as to Dick's life, I have to mention
Mr. Brims, Procurator- Fiscal, Thurso; Mr. G. M.
Sutherland and Mr. Fielding, Wick ; Professor Shearer,
Airedale College, Bradford ; and Dr. George Shearer,
Liverpool.
With respect to the Illustrations, they have, for the
most part, been the result of several journeys which I
have made round the coast of Caithness, and also into
the inland districts frequented by Robert Dick, while
making his numerous journeys in search of fossils,
boulder clay, ferns, plants, and grasses.
The illustrations have been much improved by being
drawn on the wood by such accomplished artists as
Leitch, Skelton, and Boot, and engraved by Cooper,
Whymper, and Paterson.
Mr. Sheriff Russell of Wick and Mr. Charles Peach
of Edinburgh have also given me their assistance in the
preparation of the illustrations.
The engraving of Mr. Peach has been executed by
Charles Roberts, after a photograph by Mr. Dallas,
Edinburgh.
LONDON, NOVEMBER 1878.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER L
T0LLIBODY.
The village of Tullibody — Windings of the Forth and Devon — Scenery
of the Devon— The Ochils— Castle Campbell— Rift in the Ochill
— Menstrie— Bencleuch— The Picts — The " Standing-Stane"—
Cambuskenneth — The French at Tullibody — The Abercromby
family ....... Pages 1-7
CHAPTER II.
ROBERT DICK'S BOYHOOD.
Robert Dick's birthplace — His mother — The children sent to school —
Teacher of the Barony School — Robert Dick an apt scholar — His
talent for languages — Resides at Dam's Burn — Schoolmaster at
Menstrie — Climbs the Ochils — Life at home — His stepmother
— Family difficulties — What Dick learnt as a boy — He leaves
home ....... Pages 8-16
CHAPTER III.
ROBERT DICK APPRENTICED.
Apprenticed to a baker — Life of a baker's boy — His early and late
hours — Delivering the bread — His observations of Nature — First
acquaintance with Botany — Remembrance of the plants of the
Devon — His sister Agnes — His day of rest — A great reader— Mr.
Dick removes to Thurso— Robert Dick leaves Tullibody — A journey-
man baker at Leith, Glasgow, and Greenock — Removes to Thurso—
Begins business in Thurso — Thurso Bay — His delight in the sea—
The sea-bird's cry ..... Pages 17-2*
CHAPTER IV.
DESCRIPTION OF CAITHNESS.
rhe name "Caithness" — Nesses along the coast — Caithness Scaudl>
navian — Wicks in Caithness — Saetrs, Dahls, Thorsa — The people -
xii CONTENTS.
Firths or fiords — The Picts drowned — Currents in the Pentland
Firth— Stroma— Pentland Skerries— The furious winds in Caith-
ness— No trees or hedges — Barrogill Castle — The coast scenery —
Wick Bay— Duncansby Head— The Stacks— John o' Groats— The
old castles— Al-wick, Keiss, Girnigo— The Gyoes— The inland
country — The Caithness mountains — The great mountain, Morven
— Agriculture — The old Caithness plough — Thurso— Roads — Crab-
bans— Ord of Caithness— Sir John Sinclair— Thurso Castle— Road
over Bencheilt — Sir John Sinclair's improvements . Pages 26-39
CHAPTER V.
DICK BEGINS BUSINESS.
Wilson Lane, Thurso — First flour bought — Studies conchology —
Botany— His father leaves for Haddington— Dunnet Head, Hoi-
born Head, and the Clett— The Gyoes— The inland country-
Entomology— Beetles, Bees, Butterflies, and Moths— The boya
follow Dick — Makes friends of the boys — Rare insects brought to
him — Astronomy, Geology, Phrenology — Dick invited to marry —
Annie Mackay — Mechanical method for making biscuits— His
biscuits . ... Pages 40-49
CHAPTER VI.
BOTANICAL WANDERINGS.
*
His entomological collection — Tested everything by observation — His
books — Books imbedded in his flour — His microscope — Hogarth's
works— A great reader— Botanical excursions— Spring in the North
—Watching the growth of the flowers— The ferns— Caithness flora
— Study of Botany — Midsummer time — Solitude — The moors — The
soaking rain — Walking for a fern — Standing on a hill-top — Letters
to his sister — Walking over a moor — Journey to Morven top —
Dift taken for a salmon-poacher . . . Pages 50-69
CHAPTER VII.
DISCOVERS THE "HOLY GRASS."
Business and science — Want of friends — His dress — His love of nature
— A deputation from the boys — Dick a general referee — His know-
ledge of plants — The Hierochloe borealis— Retains the discovery
for twenty years— Dick's paper on the subject— The Royal Botani-
cal Society, Edinburgh— The Moonwort— The Stork's-bill— Pursuit
of ferns— Dunnet Sands— The Dorery Hills— Loch Shurery— Dick's
fernery at the Reay Hills .... Pages 70-80
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER VIII.
DUNNET HEAD.
The coast scenery near Thurso — Holborn Head — The rockbound coast
— The Gyoes — Fury of the waves — Scrabster Roads — New rocks laid
bare — Dunnet Head a favourite haunt — Height of the cliffs —
Extent of the peninsula — Dwarwick Head — Yachting trip round
Dnnnet Head— The gyoe near Dwarwick— The sea-birds— The
lighthouse — Slips of the rocks — Dick's journey to Dunnet Head —
Dunnet sands — Over the heather — Down the cliffs — Search for
ferns — Overtaken by the sea — Dick found by a pleasure party —
Geology of Dunnet Head — Devoid of organisms — The sandstone
cliffs — Sandstone from shore to shore — Rocks at Brough — Dunnet
Loch— A superstition of Caithness . . . Pages 81-97
CHAPTER IX.
GEOLOGY DISCOVERT OP A HOLOPTYCHIUS.
Studies Geology— Mantell and Buckland— Hugh Miller's Old Red
Sandstone— Addresses Hugh Miller— The Holoptychius— Describes
the beginning of his studies — Hugh Miller's account of Dick —
Gentlemen-geologists — The scalding theory — Dick sends his fossils
to Hugh Miller— Hugh Miller's acknowledgments . Pages 98-109
CHAPTER X.
GEOLOGY OF THE THURSO COAST.
I
Invitations to Hugh Miller — Description of the coast — Thurso East —
Fossiliferous beds — "That man is mad" — View from the coast —
Pudding Gyoe — Murkle Bay — View of Dunnet cliffs — Geologising
at Scrabster — The sea — The Coccosteus — An old burying-ground —
Bishop's Palace— Scrabster Roads— Holborn Head— The Deil's Brig
— The Clett — Slater's monument — Brims — Searching for fossils on
Holborn Head Pages 110-128
CHAPTER XL
HUGH MILLER VISITS DICK.
Dick's observations in geology — Opposed to theorising — Dip of tha
strata — How came the fossil fish ? — The flagstones of Caithness-
Geological formation of Caithness — Elevation and depression of th«
xiv CONTENTS.
land— Differences of climate— The glaciers— The boulder clay-
Beds of coal— Dick sends his fossil remains to Hugh Miller— A
bundle of findings— Dick publicly mentioned— Weydale— An auld
bachelor— Dipteras and Diplopterus— The quarrymen and the fossils
Banniskirk — "Fresh herring" — Walking sentry — Reconnoitres
for Hugh Miller— Hugh Miller visits Robert Dick— Their walks
along the shore— Dunnet sands and Dunnet Head— Holborn Head
—Description of Hugh Miller— The expatriated Highlanders —
" Donald's Flittin " . . Pages 129-150
CHAPTER XII.
DEATH OF DICK'S FATHER THE BOULDER CLAY.
Thomas Dick at Haddington — Removes to Tullibody — His illness and
death —Letter to his sister— Competition at Thurso— His absence
from "the Kirk" — The reason why — Dick's solitary service — His
collection of fossils — Researches into the boulder clay — His journeys
by daylight and moonlight — Boulder clay along the Thurso river
—Finds marine shells and flints— Thurdistoft— Belts of clay—
Harpsdale— Sends Hugh Miller the marine shells Pages 151-166
CHAPTER XIII.
DICK'S SEARCHINGS AMONGST THE BOULDER CLAY.
A journey to Freswick — Starts at midnight — Castle of Freswick —
Wanderings up the burn — Finds marine shells — Hugh Miller's
conclusions — The eastern side of Dunnet Head — Dick's walk under
the break-neck rocks— Cliffs at Brough — Goes into a boulder clay
ravine — Proceeds down a ledge — Wonder upon wonder — Dick's
reflections — Journey to Harpsdale — Another visit to Freswick —
Boulder stones— Village of Castletown— Wild bulls of Dunnet—
Moss of Mey— The Skerry Lights— Stroma Isle— The Wart Hill-
Wades along Freswick Burn — Searches amongst the boulder clay —
All the country once occupied by the sea — Dick's conclusions
7-191
CHAPTER XIV.
ICEBERG PERIOD.
Action of icebergs— Journey to Dunbeath— Crosses Caithness from
north to south— Granitic debris— Dunbeath Water— Finds marine
shells— Granite and conglomerate— The boulders— The moors—
I/>ch More— The auld carle— The want of sneeshin— Deceived by
CONTENTS.
the anld carle — Formation of Caithness— Journey to Acharynio —
Picturesque appi-antnce of the river — Dirlot Castle — Dallmore and
Cattack — Strathbeg — Journey to Sinclair Bay — Noss Head — Various
other journeys — Visit to Shurery — View from the Ben — Walk up
Strath Halladale— Journey along the Pentland Firth— The Haven
of Mey— The Caddis worm . . . Pages 192-213
CHAPTER XV.
END OF CORRESPONDENCE WITH HUGH MILLER.
Dick's assistance to Hugh Miller — Professor Agassiz's testimony —
Professor Sedgwick — Specimen of the Diplopterus — Professor Owen
— Hugh Miller's acknowledgments — Ruling by authorities — Geo-
logical maps — Dick's travelling map — Government should make
the maps — One first creation — Winter in Caithness — Groovings of
ice — Rolling home an Asterolepis — How Dick polished his fossils —
Working among the rocks, at Barrogill, Mull of Mey, Scarskerry —
The base at Gill's Bay— Scotland Haven— Ramble to Bencheilt—
The Dniid's Temple— Stemster Loch— Bed over bed— Hugh Miller's
works — Popes of all sorts — Hugh Miller's death — Dick's story of
"Tb« Fairies" — Dick's lamentations over Hugh's death
Pages 214-237
CHAPTER XVI.
CHARLES W. PEACH, A.L.S.
Another worker among the rocks in Cornwall — Charles Peach — How
working men may advance knowledge — Peach and Dick — Peach
born at Wansford — His schooling — Assists in his father's inn — Is
appointed riding officer in the Coastguard service — Studies Natural
History — His frequent removals in Norfolk — The Rev. J. Layton —
Superintendent at Cley — Removed to Lyme Regis, Beer, Paignton,
aiid Gorranhaven — Studies Zoology — The Geology of the Cornish
coast— Reads a paper at the British Association — Constant, attender
at the meetings — The meeting at York — Dr. R. Chambers' descrip-
tion— Discovery of the Holothuria nigra — Charles Peach promoted
to Landing Waiter at Fowey — His discovery of organic fossils —
Testimony of the Royal Cornish Geological Society — Removes to
Peterhead — Continues his studies in Zoology and Botany — Removes
to Wick — His first visit to Robert Dick — His second visit to
Dick — Their walks — Battles in Dick's bakehouse — Peach dis-
covers fossils in the limestone of Durness — Effects a revolution in
Geology ...... Pages 238-258
xvi CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XVII.
EGBERT DICK AND CHARLES PEACH.
Peach finds a new fossil— Dick's reply— The monk of Cambray reading
backwards— Views of Geology— Ill-will to geologists— Mr. Peach's
paper at Liverpool — Fossil wood — Dick's botanical collection —
Mr. W. L. Notcutt— Dick's correspondents— His Sunday walks—
Dr. Macleod— " Ta tail pe brak "—Encounter with a Highlander-
Sir Roderick Murchison— Calls on Robert Dick— Letter from Sir
Roderick— Second visit to Dick— Moulds a map of Caithness in
flour— Sir Roderick's letter— Voyage of Murchison and Peach to the
Shetland Islands— Sir Roderick's speech at Leeds— " Hammers an'
chisels an' a' "—Amygdaloid— Dick's rhymes— Another letter from
Sir Roderick— Another rhyme . . . Pages 259-281
CHAPTER XVIII.
LION-HUNTERS — FERNS AND MOSSES.
raihurso people and Dick — Opinions about his rhymes — Lion-hunters —
Annie Mackay — The Duke of Argyll — Sir George Sinclair — Thomas
Carlyle and Baroness Burdett Coutts — Lady Sinclair — "Welcome
Charlie" — Medical students— Dr. Shearer— Dr. Meiklejohn— Dr.
Brown — The Juncus squarrosiis — Study of mosses — Club mosses —
Finds the Osmil/nda regalis — Ferns on Dunnet Head — Cornish
heaths — Studies from Nature — Fossil wood — Illness — Hart's-tongue
fern — Section of Caithness strata — Plants the Royal Fern over
Caithness — Darwin's Journal — The littleness of things — Dr.
Shearer's question — Correspondence with Dr. Meiklejohn — Influence
of climate on roses ..... Pages 282-311
CHAPTER XIX.
ROBERT DICK IN ADVERSITY.
Dick's attention to business — Is oppressed by competition — Loses his
money — Loses his health — Thinks of removing from Thurso — More
bakers — Bakers and whisky dealers — John Barleycorn — No coddling
and nursing — Improvement of Thurso — Annie Mackay's conversa-
tion, Dick's housekeeper — Dick's honesty — His cheerfulness-
Keeps moving — Pores over dried mosses — Jacob's son — Eyesight
becomes defective — His struggles to live — SirWyville Thomson — His
description of Dick — Dick resumes his researches among the fossils
— His great labour — Finds an extraordinary fossil . Pages 312-328
CONTENTS. xvii
CHAPTER XX.
DICK COMPELLED TO SELL HIS FOSSILS.
The ' ' Prince Consort " shipwrecked — Dick's flour lost — Unable ta
pay the loss — Appeals to his sister — Obtains £20 from her — Pre-
pares to sell his fossils — Mr. John Miller, F.G.S. — Correspondence
with him— Writes to Sir Roderick Murchison— Sells his fossils to
Mr. Miller — Pays his bill for the lost flour — His business again
falls off — Nature comes to his relief — His lonely walks — His
favourite resorts — The Daisy — The Bulrush and Lapland Reed —
Troubled with rheumatism — Native roses — Professor Babington
—Professor Owen— Mr. Notcutt— Mr. Pringle, Farmer 's Gazette— "0
waft me o'er the deep blue sea" — Dick a sleepless man — St. Peter's
burying-ground — A believer in the unseen world . Pages 329-347
CHAPTER XXI.
RECOMMENCES A COLLECTION OP FOSSILS.
Again searches for fossil fish — His wondrous astonishment — The dead
fish— Platform of death— View of Caithness and Orkney— Death a
necessity — Interview with a quarryman — Hugh Miller's views
referred to — The Old Red conglomerate — Searchiugs among the
rocks — A large fossil found — Searches for an entire fossil fish — Hia
constant diggings — Mr. Salter's lecture — Digs in hard frost — Order
of succession — Bed of rolled pebbles on Morven top — Stony clays
on Thurso river — Metamorphic action — Liquid silica — Flint casts —
The chalk formation— Dick's letters . . Pages 348-37'J
CHAPTER XXII.
DICK'S FRIENDS FOSSILISING AND MOSS-HUNTING.
How the Thurso people regarded Dick — His antediluvian garments —
His appearance — His inner thinkings — The little we really know —
Dignity and purity of Dick's character — Dr. Shearer's statement as
to his thoroughness — Peach and Dick — Careful and abstemious —
" No pampering " — Correspondence with his sister — Ferns in De-
cember, Peri — Dick nearly shot — Death of his sister — A new friend
— His meeting with Dick — His frequent interviews — Dick's museum
described — His herbarium — Walls of his bakehouse — His interest
CONTENTS.
in Egypt — Natural History Society of Thurso — A museum — More
correspondents — Mr. Jamieson, Ellou — Lines to Charles Peach —
Award to Peach for his discoveries in geology — Peach finds new
fossils— A sea-suake— Pterichthys Dicki— Peach's duties— Retires
from the service — Continues the study of geology and zoology — Dick's
letter on receiving his photograph . . . Pages 371-394
CHAPTER XXIII.
DICK'S LAST YEAR HIS DEATH.
Dick afflicted by rheumatism — Competition in business — His trade sus-
pended— His biscuits — Scarcely earns the wages of a day-labourer
/ — A good new year — Collecting mosses and ferns — Reform— The
rain — Working at fossils again — The old days gone for ever — A
boulder stone from Helmsdale — Bishop Colenso's book — The Thurso
merchants — Mr. Carlyle's o\"ation — Railway projects — Dick pictures
himself— Dick's last walk— His description— His illness— Mr.
Miller's helpfulness — Continues to work — His last letters — Mrs.
Harold— Robert Dick's death— A public funeral— Followers to his
grave — Winding up of his affairs — Sale of his library — The proposed
pension— Too late Pages 395-416
CHAPTER XXIV.
CHARACTERISTICS.
Dick self-sacrificing life— TJnhappiness in his bringing up— His delight
in nature — His love of facts — The mystery of geology — Its wonders
— His researches among the rocks and boulder clay — His unselfish-
ness— His givings to Hugh Miller — Hugh Miller's acknowledgments
— His extraordinary journeys — Necessity for work — His intellectual
labour — His modesty — His enthusiasm — His closeness of observa-
tion— His idea of geology — His collections of fossils — His herbarium
— His character — His childlikeness — Sir George Sinclair's testimony
— Profeseor Shearer — Charles Peach — His poverty — Annie Mackay
— Dick a reverent and devout man — Moral of Dick's life
Pages 417-432
ILLUSTBATIONS.
POETRAIT OF ROBERT DICK. Etched by Paul Rajon. Frontispiex.
Engraved by
PORTRAIT 01 CHARLES W. PEACH, A.L.S. C. JRoberts. Tofcuxpage 238
BENCLEDOH — OCHIL HILLS , „ 1
RIFT IN THE OCHILS, NEAR MENSTRiE .... page 3
ROBERT DICK'S BIRTHPLACE, TULLIBODY 8
DAM'S BURN, FOOT OF THE OCHILS „ 11
DUNMYAT, FROM CAMBUSKENNETH , . • ,,17
THDRSO BAY . „ 26
MAP OF CAITHNESS To face page 26
GIRNIGO CASTLE, EAST COAST OF CAITHNESS . . . page 32
ORD OF CAITHNESS ,,36
DUNCANSBY HEAD, NEAR JOHN o' GROAT'S ... ,,39
THE CLETT, HOLBORN HEAD To face page 44
OLD THURSO CASTLE, FROM THE SHORE .... page 54
MORVEN MOUNTAIN To face page 66
THE DORERY HILLS . .... page 79
DWARWICK HEAD „ 84
DUNNET HEAD, FROM THE EAST .... To face page 86
DISTANT VIEW OF DONNET HEAD, FROM BARROGILL CASTLE page 97
MAP OF COAST NEAR THURSO ,,110
HOY HEAD AND MAN OF HOY „ 115
BISHOP'S PALACE AND SCRABSTER ROADS ... „ 121
THE DEIL'S BRIO, HOLBORN HEAD . . . To face page 111
DUNNET SANDS . page 143
ROCKS AT HOLBORN HEAD— SLATER'S MONUMENT To face page 146
THURSO RIVER, FROM THE BRIDGE page 160
STACKS OF DUNCANSBY . . . . . . . ,,166
FRESWICK CASTLE AND HEADLAND ... „ 169
xx LIST OF ILLUSTRA TIONS.
DUNNET CLIFFS, EASTERN SIDE page 172
ROCKS AT BROUGH To face page 17 4
CASTLEHILL HOUSE, CASTLETOWN page 180
THE SKERBY LIGHTS, PENTLAND FIRTH : FROM CANISBAY
To face page, 182
BOULDER CLAY AT FRESWICK page 184
FRESWICK BRIDGE „ 186
DUNBEATH : EAST COAST OF CAITHNESS . . . ,,193
RUINS OF DlRLOT pASTLE . .... „ 202
SINCLAIR BAY AND Noss HEAD ,,205
STRATH HALLADALE To face page 208
MOUTH OF STRATH HALLADALE RIVER .... page 210
DUNNET HEAD : WEST FRONT — NEAR THE LIGHTHOUSE
To face page 232
WANSFORD, NORTHAMPTONSHIRE page 24C
CHARLES PEACH'S HOUSE AT FOWEY .... „ 249
ROBERT DICK'S HOUSE, WILSON'S LANE, THURSO . . „ 271
THURSO HARBOUR : THE OLD CHURCH . . . . ,, -74
OLD THURSO CASTLE ,,286
DUNNET HEAD : WEST FRONT .... To face page 296
DICK'S SEAT AT DORERY : VIEW INTO SUTHERLANDSHIRE page 303
THURSO PARISH CHURCH, FROM THE WICK ROAD . . ,,317
RUINS OF ST. PETER'S, THURSO ,,347
DISTANT VIEW OF MORVEN AND MAIDEN PAP . . „ 350
MOUTH OF THURSO RIVER ,,384
MILLATFORSS To face page 388
MONUMENT TO ROBERT DICK IN THUESO CEVETEB.Y „ „ 416
NKW THURSO CASTLE ....... page 432
BENCLEUGH : OCHIL HILLS.
ROBERT DICK.
CHAPTEE I.
TULLIBODY.
THE village of Tullibody stands upon a rising ground
situated between the windings of the Forth and the
Devon, in Clackmannanshire, Scotland. The Devon
takes its rise among the burns and rivulets which
flow down from the Ochil Hills.
At the upper part of the river, some of the most
romantic scenery in Scotland is to be found. At the
Caldron Linn the Devon forms a series of cascades,
which rush down through precipitous rocks into almost
unseen depths. Boiling about in the Caldrons, it passes
with a violent noise under the Eumblin' Brig, which
spans the rocks about a hundred and twenty feet above
the bed of the river.
Another affluent of the Devon comes down from the
Ochils at Castle Campbell — Castle of Gloom, as it used
to be called — a ruined building occupying a wild and
romantic situation on the summit of a high and almost
insulated rock. The mount on which it is situated is
nearly encompassed on all sides by tliick bosky woods ;
and the mountain rivulets which tumble down through
THE DEVON.
the chasms on either side, become united at the base.
The whole of the scenes about the upper Devon are of
the most romantic kind, and are strikingly different
from all other Scottish scenery.
As the river winds out from its rocky bed below the
Caldron Linn, it enters the beautiful open valley which
runs along the foot of the Ochils, taking on its way the
rivulets which flow down from the mountains. It runs
westward near Dollar, Tillicoultry, Alva, and Menstrie ;
then, winding sharp round towards the south near Tulli-
body, it joins the Forth at Cambus, a little below the
ruins of Cambuskenneth Abbey.
Among his many beautiful verses descriptive of the
rivers of Scotland, Burns has not forgotten the Devon : —
" How pleasant the banks of the clear winding Devon,
With green spreading bushes and flowers blooming fair !"
The verses werer composed as a poetic compliment to
Miss Charlotte Hamilton, a charming lady, then residing
at Harvieston, near Dollar.*
The lofty range of the Ochils is a prominent feature
in the scenery of the Devon. The hills are soft, green,
and pastoral. Their sunward slopes are here and there
varied with magnificent wooded glades, intermingled with
copse and whins, which in their golden summer yellow
are supremely beautiful. The burns and streamlets come
down in cascades through the deep rifts of the hills, and
are turned to use in many mills along the valley.
* Near Dollar is "Tait's Tomb," the family burial-place of the
Archbishop of Canterbury, whose father built Haivieston, and became
the possessor of Castle Campbell.
THE OCHILS.
The most south-
erly of the Ochil Hills is
Dunmyat, which is famous
for the extensive view obtained
from its summit. A little to
the east of it rises Beucleuch,
the highest hill in the range,
2352 feet high. It shoots up
into a tall rocky point, called
Craigleith, famous in ancient
times for the production of fal-
cons. In a hollow behind the
point, where the sun's rays never
extend, the snow lies far into the
summer. The people of the
neighbourhood give it the
name of Lady Alva's Web.
The little town of Alva
lies close to the
A EIFT IN THE OCHILS, NEAR MRNSTRIE.
TULLIBODY.
foot of Bencleuch. The glens and wooded copsea
behind it are full of beauty. The old ballad never-
theless assumes the supremacy of Menstrie, near the
foot of Dunmyat : —
" Oh, Alva's woods are bonnie,
Tillicoultry's hills are fair,
But when I think o' the bonnie braes o' Menstrie,
It makes my heart aye sair." *
The village of Tullibody looks down upon the
"bonnie braes o' Menstrie." A valley lies between,
along which runs the clear winding Devon. A bridge
spans the river near Tullibody, from which a fine view
is obtained of the winding Devon, the hill of Bencleuch.
and the village and woods of Alva at its base. In thie
neighbourhood the famous adventure of James the Fifth
and the Gudeman of Ballangeich occurred. On the
Gudeman's visit to Stirling, the King designated him as
" King of the Muirs." The cottage in which King James
took shelter lay on an eminence near Tullibody, about a
mile south of the Ochils.
Tullibody seems in some way to have been connected
with that mythical people the Picts.-f Who were the
Picts or Pechs ? Many have tried to unravel the story,
but the result has been mere guesswork. Som } say that
* Menstrie House was formerly the seat of the Earl of Stirling. It
was destroyed by the Parliamentarian army during the reign of
Charles I. ; in return for which the clans under Montrose devoted
Castle Campbell to flames and ruin in 1645.
t The name of Tullibody is said to be derived from the Celtic
language — Tulach, a little green eminence, and Boidich,a,vovf, a solemn
promise. Hence Tulachboidich, the knoll of the oath.
THE STANDING STANE.
they occupied the Orkneys, Caithness, and Sutherland ;
others that they inhabited Mid-Scotland, between the
West Highlands and the Lowlands north of the Forth.
We hear of them at Brechin, at Galloway, and along the
Picts' Wall. Some say they were Celts, others Scandi-
navians. The riddle is as yet quite unsolved.
The story goes that the Picts were totally defeated
by King Kenneth in the neighbourhood of Tullibody, or
Dunbodenum,* in the year 843, after five successive
battles. It is said that the final overthrow of the
Picts took place near the village of Logic, close under
Dunmyat; and others that it took place at Cambus-
kenneth Abbey, which " was built by David the Second
on the very spot where his royal ancestor gave the final
blow to the Pictish dominion."
In commemoration of the event it is said that a
" Standing Stane " was first erected at Tullibody, — a
usual method of distinguishing the site of a battle in
ancient times. The "Standing Stane" was, however,
demolished about fifty years ago, the broken fragments
being found useful in mending the roads.
The Abbot of Cambuskenneth took Tullibody under
his charge, whether in connection with the victory of
Kenneth Macalpine over the Picts, or because the place
was in his immediate vicinity, does not appear. At all
events, a primitive place of worship was erected at
Tullibody, which long continued to be an appendage to
the wealthy Abbey of Cambuskenneth.
* From Dun Buddran, the fort of Buddran, a celebrated Celtic
thief.
2
TULLIBODY BRIDGE.
At the period of the Eeformation in Scotland, when
the French troops under Mary of Guise were flying
westward through Fife and Clackmannan on the arrival
of the English fleet in the Forth, William Kirkaldy of
Grange, to impede their progress, destroyed the eastern
arch of Tullibody bridge.
The French, under General D'Oysel, never at a loss in
an emergency, unroofed the church at Tullibody for the
purpose of repairing the bridge. To use the words of
John Knox : — " Ye French, expert enough in sic feats,
tuke downe ye roofe of a paroch kirk, and made ane
brig over ye water called Devon, and sae they escapet
and gaed to Stirling, and thereafter to Leath."*
For a long time nothing was done to repair the
church, after the French had unroofed it. The ancient
walls fell to decay, and became covered with wild weeds.
The body of the church was used as a burial-place. The
place might have gone to utter ruin but for the Aber-
cromby family, who own the estate of Tullibody. They
* John Knox adds — "As ye Frenohe spullyed ye cuntry in their
returning, ane captane or soldiour, we cannot tell, but he had a reid
clocke and a gilt murrion, entered upon a pure woman, that dwelt in
ye Quhytsyid, and began to spoille. Ye pure woman offer-it unto him
sic breid as sche had redy prepairit, but he, in no ways tharewith
content, wold have ye meil and a littill salt beef, quhilk ye pure
woman had to sustein hir own lyif, and ye lyves of hir pure childrein ;
nowther could teirs nor pitifull words mitigate ye merciles man, bot
he wold have quhatsoevir he micht cary. The pure woman perceaving
him so bent, and that he stoupit down in hir tub for the taking furth of
sick stuff as was within it, first coupit up his heilles, so that his heid
went down, and thairafter be hirsetf, or if ony uther companie came to
helpf, hir, but there he enc/it his unhape fyif."
THE ABERCROMBIES.
roofed over the church, and seated it as a place of
worship. They erected some fine monuments and memo-
rials in and about it to the memory of the distinguished
men of the family. Among them is a cenotaph to
the distinguished Sir Ealph Ahercromby, the hero of
Aboukir.
Having thus described the scenery of the Ochils and
the Devon, amongst which Robert Dick spent many of
his early days, we proceed to relate the story of his hie.
ROBERT DICK'S BIRTHPLACE.
CHAPTER II.
ROBERT DICK'S BOYHOOD.
ROBERT DICK was "born at Tullibody in January 1811.*
He "was one of four children — Agnes, Robert, Jane,
and James.
Thomas Dick, his father, was an officer of excise.
He was an attentive, diligent, and able man. He
eventually rose to one of the highest positions in his
calling. At the time when Robert Dick was born,
* Miss Dick, his half-sister, says he was born in 1810, though 1811
is on his tombstone.
CH\P. ii. BARONY SCHOOL, TULLIBODY. 9
it was his business to attend daily at the Cambua
Brewery, close at hand.
Margaret Gilchrist was Robert Dick's mother. Very
little is known of her, excepting that she was a very
delicate woman, and died shortly after having given
birth to her fourth child. Thomas Dick was thus left
without a wife, and his children without a mother.
The house in which the Dick family lived, and in
which Robert was born, is situated in the principal
street of the village. It is a two-storied, red-tiled,
" self-contained" house. Looking down the street from
the Tron Tree, you see the Ochil hills forming the
back-ground of the village ; the Devon winding in the
valley below.
The children, as they grew up, were sent to school.
Tullibody was fortunate in its Barony School, founded
and partly endowed by the Abercromby family. Thus
all the children in the village were able to obtain a fair
education at a moderate, price ; for in Scotland it is
considered a disgrace if a parent, of even the meanest
condition, does not send his children to school.
Mr. Macintyre was the teacher of the Barony School
He was a man of considerable attainments. Above all
things, he was an enthusiastic schoolmaster. He main-
tained discipline, inculcated instruction, and elevated
the position of his school by steady competition. He
endeavoured to avoid corporal punishment, and only
appealed to it as the last resource.
Robert Dick was one of his aptest scholars. He
learned everything rapidly. When he had mastered
10 DICK'S DOMINIE. CHAP. n.
reading, he read everything he could lay hands on.
He was fond of fun and sport, and, like all strong
and active boys, he sometimes got into scrapes. When
he infringed the rules of the school, the master gave
him a number of verses to commit to heart. But he
learnt them so quickly and recited them with such ease,
that the task was found of no use as a punishment,
and then, on any further indiscretion being committed,
the master resorted to the last extremity — the Taws !*
In a letter to Hugh Miller, Dick afterwards said, " My
auld dominie used to say that I had a good memory.
Every morning, in his introductory exercise, before the
business of the day began, he used to pray that teacher
and scholars might all be taught, and that discipline
might be followed with obedience."
Eobert had a great talent for languages. He learnt
Latin so quickly that his master recommended Mr. Dick
to send him to "college, with the object of educating him
for one of the learned professions. Such was his inten-
tion, when an event occurred which prevented its being
carried into effect.
This was Mr. Dick's second marriage. It occurred
in 1821, when Eobert was ten years old. Mr. Dick
married the daughter of Mr. Knox, the brewer at Cambus,
whose premises he inspected. As the excise regulations
did not permit of his surveying the premises of a relative,
he was removed to Dam's Burn, a hamlet at the foot of
the Ochils, where he inspected the whisky distillery of
* The Taws, a thick leather strap about three feet long, cut into tails
at the end.
J>AM'S BUR A?.
Mr Dall. The distillery is
now called Glen Ochil.
Dam's Burn is so called because
of a noisy burn, which leaps from
rock to rock down the hills, to join
the Devon, which runs through the
valley below. On its way, the burn
used to be dammed up, so as to
drive a mill while on its way (~'
to the river. Mr. Dick occu- /
pied the best house in the place,
— the slated house, with its gable end towards the street,
as shown in the annexed engraving. The slopes of the
Ochil hills,— the Abbey Craig, on which the Wallace
Monument now stands, — and the Campsie Fells, beyond
Stirling, are seen in the distance.
While at Dam's Burn, Eobert Dick went to the parish
school at Menstrie, a village about half a mile westward.
DAM'S B0KN.
12 DICK ON THE OCHfLS. CHAP. it.
The teacher's name was Morrison. He was not equal
in accomplishments to the Barony schoolmaster at Tulli-
body. He took to teaching because he had not limbs
enough to fit him for anything else. He had only one
arm. He used to mend his pens dexterously, while
holding them firmly under the little stump that remained
on the other side.
Robert Dick made little progress under this master.
He learned his lessons well enough, and read as many
books as he could find or borrow. But he had a great
compensation at Dam's Burn for his want of school
learning. It was at Dam's Burn that he imbibed his
love of Nature. The green Ochils rose right behind his
father's house. By stepping into the back-green, he could
at once ascend the heights. He could ramble up the
burns, and in the sheltered corners, behind the rocks, find
many precious flowers and plants.
The boy who" plays about a mountain side, or among
the clefts of the hills, finds many things to amuse him.
In spring time there are the birds ; in summer there are
the plants and flowers; and in winter there are the
icicles hanging down the ledges of the rocks. Robert
also found out a variety of stones among the hills, —
the felspar, porphyry, and greenstones, which are com-
mon in the Ochils. He wondered at the difference
between them, — made a collection of them, which he
treasured at a dike-side, behind his father's house, —
and tried to find out the cause of the difference between
one stone and another.
This climbing of the Ochils led him into difficulties.
DICK'S STEP-MOTHER. 13
And this leads us to a point in the history of Bobert
Dick's life which cannot be omitted, inasmuch as it
coloured his whole future life. The years of childhood
and boyhood are, as it were, a sort of prophetic recital
of the years of manhood. They constitute the little
stage on which, with puny powers, we unconsciously
rehearse the scenes of after life.
The boy has in him the seeds of good and the seeds
of evil. Which will prove the stronger ? No one can
tell. But, to a large extent, it depends upon the effects
of love and sympathy at home. The presence of these
may call into life the best growths of the soul, and the
absence of them may raise up the noxious miasmas that
poison the whole human heart.
It will be remembered, that when Thomas Dick
removed to Dam's Burn, he married again. Other chil-
dren were soon added to the household. Then the
feelings of the step-mother came into play. It requires
great tact and temper to manage a family in which there
are two elements, — the children of the first mother, and
the children of the second.
The new Mrs. Dick was a good wife and an excellent
mother, so far as her own children were concerned. But
she did not get on well with her husband's children by
his first wife. Perhaps they regarded her as an intruder
in the household ; and where her own children were con-
cerned, she naturally regarded them with preference'.
Nor were her husband's attentions to his children by
his first wife at all to her taste. What was done for them
evoked many a pang of maternal jealousy. Mother-lika
14 PERSECUTIONS.
human-like, she could not but regard these young things
as intruders upon her own children's standing room. All
that was given to them was so much taken from her
own offspring.
Hence arose family difficulties in the household.
Eobert stayed out, rather than remain indoors. He
wandered about among the hills. He wore out his
shoes. To prevent him going out, his step-mother hid
them. Still Robert climbed the hills, and came home
with bleeding feet. He was punished for his misdoings,
and commanded to stay at home. This did not hinder
him from going out again. He would wander along the
Devon looking for birds' nests. This was as bad as
climbing the Ochils, and he was again thrashed with a
stick.
It was the same with the other step- children. James,
the youngest son of the first wife, struck back. Poor
fellow! He was pommelled so hard that he could
scarcely stand. Was he a "dour," hard, perverse
boy? Very likely. He had no mother's affection to
bear him up. Eobert Dick never complained. He
took his thrashings without grumbling. Still he went
on in his old way, though he could not but feel the hol-
lowness of his new motherhood.
At last the children were got out of the house,
Instead of being sent to college (as had been his father's
intention), Eobert was sent to Tullibody, where he was
apprenticed to a baker. Shortly after, James, the
youngest boy, went to sea ; and Agnes, the eldest, went
to be a servant at Edinburgh.
THE DARK SHADOW.
Of course this was a very bad training for an intelli-
gent, high-spirited boy. It was not calculated to liber-
ate the ideal human being which lies concealed in every
child. It was, on the contrary, calculated to sour the
boy's nature, and to thwart his temperament at every
point. It threw a dark shadow along the whole of his
future life.
Long afterwards, in speaking to Charles Peach about
his early struggles, he said — " All my naturally buoyant,
youthful spirits were broken. To this day I feel the
effects. I cannot shake them off. It is this that still
makes me shrink from the world." It will be necessary
to bear these facts in mind while reading the story of
Robert Dick's after life.
There were, however, two or three things that
Eobert had already learnt. He was educated, as Scotch
boys usually are, at the parish school. He had learnt
reading, writing, arithmetic, and a little Latin. It did
not amount to much, but it was the beginning of a
great deal. The rest of his education he owed to him-
self. As Stone, the son of the Duke of Argyll's gardener,
said, " One needs only to know the twenty-six letters of
the alphabet to be able to learn everything else that one
wishes."
Another thing that he learnt during this trying
period of his life, was self-control. Though treated with
capricious restraint, he never retorted. He bore uncom-
plainingly all that was laid upon him. Though strong
and spirited, he was a good-natured boy. He felt that,
under the circumstances, the ill-treatment of his step-
16 LEA VES HOME.
mother was a thing that he must bear ; and he bore it
uncomplainingly, looking forward to better times.
There are compensations in all things. He was
happy to leave home. It was a pleasure to him to find
that there was some other roof under which he could
live in comparative comfort.
But he never forgot the circumstances under which
he had left home. When he afterwards heard of a neigh-
bour losing his wife, he said, "Ah! a sad thing for
the bairns ! Had my own mother been alive I would
never have been a baker ! "
CHAPTEE III.
ROBERT DICK APPRENTICED.
EGBERT DICK was apprenticed to Mr. Aikman, a baker
in Tullibody, when he was thirteen years old. Mr.
Aikman had a large business, and supplied bread to
people in the neighbouring villages as far as the Bridge
of Allan.
The life of a baker is by no means interesting. One
day is like another. The baker is up in the morning
at three or four. The oven fire is kindled first. The
18 LIFE OF A BAKER. CHAP. in.
flour is mixed with yeast and salt and water, laboriously
kneaded together. The sponge is then set in some warm
place. The dough begins to rise. After mingling with
more flour, and thorough kneading, the mass is weighed
into lumps of the proper size, which are shaped into
loaves and "bricks," or into "baps," penny and half-
penny. This is the batch, which, after a short time, is
placed in the oven until it is properly baked and ready
to be taken out. The bread is then sold or delivered to
the customers. When delivered out of doors, the bread
is placed on a flat baker's basket, and carried on the
head from place to place.
Eobert Dick got up first and kindled the fire, so as to
heat the oven preparatory to the batch being put in.
His nephew, Mr. Alexander of Dunferrnline, says " he
got up at three in the morning, and worked and drudged
until seven and eight, and sometimes nine o'clock at
night." -
As he grew older, and was strong enough to carry
the basket on his head, he was sent about to deliver the
bread in the neighbouring villages. He was sent to
Menstrie, to Lipney on the Ochils, to Blairlogie at the
foot of Dunmyat, and farther westward to the Bridge
of Allan, about six miles from Tullibody.
The afternoons on which he delivered the bread were
a great pleasure to Dick. He had an opportunity for ob-
serving nature, which had charms for him in all its moods.
When he went up the hills to Lipney, he wandered on
his return through Menstrie Glen. He watched the
growth of the plants. He knew them individually, one
CHAP. in. BEGINNINGS OF BOTANY. 19
from the other. He began to detect the differences
between them, though he then knew little about orders,
classes, and genera. When the hazel-nuts were ripe he
gathered them and brought loads of them home for the
enjoyment of his master's bairns. They all had a great
love for the 'prentice Kobert.
He must also, in course of time, have obtained some
special acquaintance with botany. At all events, he
inquired, many years after, about some particular plants
which he had observed during his residence at Dam's
Burn and Tullibody. " Send me," he said to his eldest
sister, " a twig with the blossom and some leaves, from
the Tron Tree in Tullibody." The Tron Tree is a lime
tree standing nearly opposite the house in which Eobert
was born.
" Send me also," he said, " a specimen of the wild
geranium, which you will find on the old road close by
the foot of the hills between Menstrie and Alva. I also
want a water-plant [describing it] which grows in the
river Devon." The two former were sent to him, but
the water-plant could not be found.
Eobert's apprenticeship lasted for three years and a
half. He got no wages — only his meals and his bed.
He occupied a small room over the bakehouse. His
father had still to clothe him, and his washing was done
at home. On Saturdays he went with his " duds " to
Dam's Burn. But either soap was scarce, or good-will
was wanting. His step-mother would not give him
clean stockings except once a fortnight. His sister
Agnes used to accompany him home to Tullibody in the
20 A GREA T READER. CHAP, m
evening, and at the Aikmans' door she exchanged stock-
ings with him, promising to have his own well darned
and washed by the following Sunday.
The day of rest was a day of pleasure to him. He
did not care to stay within doors. He had shoes now,
and could wander up the hills to the top of Dunmyat
or Bencleuch, and see the glorious prospect of the
country below ; the windings of the Devon, the wind-
ings of the Forth, and the country far away, from the
castle of Stirling on the one hand to the castle of
Edinburgh on the other.
Dick continued to be a great reader. He read every
book that he could lay his hands on. Popular books
were not so common then as they are now. But he
contrived to borrow some volumes of the old Edinburgh
Encyclopedia, and this gave him an insight into science.
It helped him in his knowledge of botany. He could
now find out fo» himself the names of the plants ; and he
even began to make a collection. It could only have
been a small one, for his time was principally occupied
by labour. Yet, with a thirst for knowledge, and a deter-
mination to obtain it, a great deal may be accomplished
in even the humblest station.
In 1826, Mr. Dick was advanced to the office of
supervisor of excise, and removed to Thurso. Eobert
was then left to himself in Tullibody. He had still two
years more to serve. One day followed another in the
usual round of daily toil. The toil was, however,
mingled with pleasure, and he walked through the
country with his bread basket, and watched Nature
with ever-increasing delight.
LEAVES TULLIBODY. 21
He made no acquaintances. The Aikmans say
" that he was very kind to his master's children — that
he was constantly "bringing them flowers from the fields,
or nuts from the glens, or anything curious or interesting
which he had picked up in the course of his journeys."
He occupied a little of his time in bird-stuffing. He
stuffed a hare, which he called " a tinkler's lion." It
need scarcely be said that the children were very fond
of their father's 'prentice.
At length his time was out. He was only seventeen.
But he had to leave Tullibody, and try to find work as
a journeyman. He bundled up his clothes and set out
for Alloa, where he caught the boat for Leith. He never
saw Tullibody again, though he long remembered it.
His father and mother were buried in the churchyard
there ; and he could not help having a longing affection
for the place. But he could never spare money enough
to revisit the place of his birth.
Long after, when writing to his brother-in-law, he
said, — "And ye have been up to Alloa. Well, I do
believe that is a bonnie country, altho' I fancy it is not
in any sense the poor man's country. Nothing but men
of money there; though fient a hair did I care for
their grandeur while I lived there. The hills and woods,
and freedom to run upon them and through them, was
all I cared about.
" ' What though, like commoners of air,
We wander out we know not where,
But either house or hall ?
Yet Nature's charms, the hills and woods,
The sweeping vales, and foaming floods,
Are free alike to all.'
22 DICK A JOURNEYMAN. CHAF. in.
I daresay I might pick up a plant or a stone with very
different feelings from those I felt in the days of old.
But let them go ! There is no use in repining."
Again, when writing to a fellow botanist, who
doubted whether Digitalis purpurea was a native of
Caithness, he said, " I have seen more of the plant in
Caithness than I ever saw about Stirling, Alloa, or on
the Ochil hills, — more than I ever saw in the woods of
Tullibody."
Eobert Dick found a journeyman's situation at Leith,
where he remained for six months. His life there was
composed of the usual round of getting up early in the
morning, kneading, baking, and going about the streets
with his basket on his head, delivering bread to the cus-
tomers. It was a lonely life ; and the more lonely, as he
was far away from Nature and the hills that he loved.
From Leith he went to Glasgow, and afterwards to
Greenock. He was a journeyman baker for about three
years. His wages were small ; his labour was heavy ;
and he did not find that he was making much progress.
He continued to correspond with his father, and told
him of his position. The father said, " Come to Thurso,
and set up a baker's shop here." There were then only
three bakers' shops in the whole county of Caithness, —
one at Thurso, one at Castleton, and another at Wick.
In that remote district " baker's bread " had scarcely
come into fashion. The people there lived chiefly on
oatmeal and bere,* — oatmeal porridge and cakes, and
* Bere or bar (Norwegian) a commoner kind of barley.
" I sing the juice Scotch bear can make us. " — BURNS.
DICK GOES TO THURSO.
barley bannocks, with plenty of milk. Upon this fare
men and women grew up strong and healthy. Many of
them only got a baker's loaf for " the Sabbath."
Eobert Dick took his father's advice. He went
almost to the world's end to set up his trade. He
arrived at Thurso in the summer of 1830, when he was
about twenty years old. A shop was taken in Wilson's
Lane, nearly opposite his father's house. An oven had
to be added to the premises before the business could
be begun; and in the meantime Eobert surveyed the
shore along Thurso Bay.
Thurso is within sight of Orkney, the Ultima Thule of
the Eomans. It is the northernmost town in Great
Britain. John o' Groat's — the Land's End of Scotland
— is farther to the east. It consists of only a few
green mounds, indicating where John o' Groat's House
once stood.*
Thurso is situated at the southern end of Thurso Bay,
at the mouth of the Thurso river, — the most productive
salmon river in Scotland. The fish, after feeding and
cleaning themselves in the Pentland Firth, make for the
fresh water. The first river they come to is the Thurso,
up which they swim in droves.
Thurso Bay, whether in fair or foul weather, is a
grand sight. On the eastern side, the upright cliffs of
Dunnet Head run far to the northward, forming the
most northerly point of the Scottish mainland. On the
* A very comfortable hotel has recently been erected close to the
site of John o' Groat's. Many pleasure parties come from Wick and
Thurso to spend the day there, and pick up the John o' Groat's buckiea.
24 ASPECTS OF THE SEA. CHAP. HI.
west, a high crest of land juts out into the sea, forming
at its extremity the bold precipitous rocks of Holborn
Head. Looking out of the bay you see the Orkney
Islands in the distance, the Old Man of Hoy standing
up at its western promontory, At sunset the light glints
along the island, showing the bold prominences and
depressions in the red sandstone cliffs. Out into the
ocean the distant sails of passing ships are seen against
the sky, white as a gull's wing.
The long swelling waves of the Atlantic come rolling
in upon the beach. The noise of their breaking in
stormy weather is like thunder. From Thurso they are
seen dashing over the Holborn Head, though some two
hundred feet high; and the cliffs beyond Dunnet Bay
are hid in spray.
Eobert Dick was delighted with the sea in all its
aspects. The sea opens many a mind. The sea is the
most wonderful" thing a child can see; and it long con-
tinues to fill the thoughtful mind with astonishment.
The sea-shore on the western coast is full of strange
sights. There is nothing but sea between Thurso and
the coasts of Labrador.
The wash of the ocean comes by the Gulf Stream
round the western coasts of Scotland, and along the
northern coasts of Norway. Hence the bits of drift-
wood, the tropical sea-weed, and the tropical nuts,
thrown upon the shore at Thurso.
In the same way, bits of mahogany are sometimes
carried by the ocean current from Honduras or the Baj
of Mexico, and thrown upon the shore on the northern
THE SEA-MEW'S CRY. 25
most coasts of Norway. One evening, while walking
along the beach near Thurso, Eobert Dick took up a
singular-looking nut, which he examined. He remarked
to the friend who accompanied him, " That has been
brought by the ocean current and the prevailing winds
all the way from one of the West Indian Islands.
How strange that we should find it here !"
Kobert Dick always admired the magnmcent sea
pictures of Thurso Bay — its waves that gently rocked or
wildly raged. He enjoyed the salt-laden breath of the
sea wind ; and even the cries of the sea birds. Here is
his description of the sea-mew : " ' Ha ga tirwa ! ' How
strange and uncouth ! How very unnatural the cry
seemed. It was only the cry of a sea bird. It was
within sight of the ocean. There had been a storm. It
was over, but the waves in long rolling breakers dashed
themselves in a rage on the sandy shore, and then were
quiet. But quiet only for a moment. 'Ha ga tirwa!'
Kestless and unwearied, another and another long wave
followed and burst into spray. And thus it has ever
been 'since evening was, and morning was.' It was
then evening, the stars began to twinkle ; and after a
little the full moon rose. But still ' Ha ga tirwa !' "
But before proceeding with Eobert Dick's history,
it is necessary that we should give a short account of
the county of Caithness, over the whole of which
he afterwards wandered in search of the botany, as
well as of the geological formation of the district.
THURSO BAV.
CHAPTEE IV.
CAITHNESS.
THE name of Caithness is derived from the old Norse.
It indicates the ness, naze, or nose of Cattey.* Many
of the headlands are also denominated ness, from Brim's
Ness to the west of Thurso, to Noss Head north of Wick.
Indeed, the same word is applied to headlands along the
east coast of Scotland and England — from Tarbat Ness
in Eoss to Dungeness in Kent. The same word is
applied to the Naze in Norway and in Essex, and to
* Caithness, supposed to be the peninsula of the Catti, a tribe cele-
brated by Tacitus in his account of the Low German tribes. — TACITUS,
C. xxx. Germania,—oT perhaps from the Ugnan (Lapp) " Ketje "—an
end or extremity.—/. Taylor.
MAP OF CAITHNESS.
CHAP. iv. CAITHNESS SCANDINA VI AN. 27
Cape Gris Nez (Gray Nose) near Calais. It usually in-
dicates a headland which the Scandinavians have named,
or near which they have settled.
Caithness seems to have been almost entirely Scan-
dinavian. The creeks or bays in which the Norsemen
anchored, or where they ran their boats ashore, are
called by Norwegian names, from Wick, the greatest
fishing station in the world, to Freswick, Sleswick,
D Warwick, and such like inlets.
The Gaels seem to have been pushed inland towards
the hilly country of Sutherland, while the Scandinavians
occupied the low-lying ground along the coast. Almost
every farm steading is called by a Scandinavian name.
Hence Scrabster, Lybster, Seister, Thurster, Ulbster, and
such like — the word ster being from " saetr," the Scandi-
navian word for farm. Dahls, or dales, penetrate the
country to the southward, though the Celtic word Strath
is still preserved. Hence Strath Halladale and Strath
Helmsdale in Sutherlandshire. North of that region,
the rivers are called forss or water. Worsaae derives
the name of Thurso from Thor the pagan god, and aa a
river. Hence Thorsa, or Thor's river.
The people also resemble their progenitors. The fair
hair, blue eyes, and tall figures of the Scandinavians are
still preserved throughout the county, — in contradis-
tinction to the small size, the dark hair, the swarthy
skin, and the black or steely-blue eyes of the Celts, to
the south and west of Scotland.
All the firths, or inlets of the sea, are known by Norse
names. The Pentland Firth, which runs between the
28 PENTLAND FIRTH. CHAP. iv.
north coast of Caithness and the Orkneys, was in old
Norse called the Petland Fiord. Here we have the
mythical Picts again. Bleau, in his Geographical Atlas,
says that the Picts, when defeated by the Scots, fled to
Duncansby, from whence they crossed to Orkney. But,
meeting with resistance by the natives, they were forced
to return. On their way back to Caithness, they all
perished in the firth; from which catastrophe it was
ever after called the Pictland or Pentland Firth.
Heavy currents run through the Firth. The tide runs
at the rate of ten miles an hour. A full-rigged ship,
with her sails set and a favourable wind, is sometimes
driven back by the tide. This I have seen when jour-
neying along the shores of the Firth. Sometimes it is
whirled round amidst the eddying currents. Where the
currents of the Atlantic Ocean and the North Sea meet,
the water is churned and eddied about as in a maelstrom.
At the east end of the Firth is the island of Stroma, which
in old Norse means " the island in the current." The
population of the island is of pure Norwegian descent ;
the men being excellent sailors and boatmen.
Not far from this island, and in sight of John o'
Groat's, are the two Pentland Skerries, commanding the
eastern entrance to the Firth. They were originally
called Petland Skjaere. The largest skerry contains
two lighthouses, one higher than the other, to be a surer
guide to the mariner.
During the equinoctial gales, the wind sweeps across
the county with great fury. It is scarcely possible to
hold one's feet. Cattle are blown down, and trees are
CHAP. iv. TREES IN CAITHNESS. 23
blown away. The thatched roofs of the cottages are
held down by strong straw ropes with heavy stones
hanging at their ends; otherwise the roofs would be
blown away, as well as the cottages themselves.
It is scarcely possible to grow a tree in the northern
part of the county. Hedges are almost unknown. Instead
of hedges, the fields are separated from each other by
Caithness flags set on end. To one accustomed to the
beautiful woods and hedgerows of the south, the cheer-
lessness of Caithness scenery may well be imagined.
Kobert Chambers said of the county — " The appearance
of Caithness is frightful, and productive of melancholy
feelings." " It is only a great morass," says another
writer ; " the climate is unfavourable ; the stormy
winds are always blowing across it; mists suddenly
come on, and the air is always damp."
A desperate effort has been made to grow trees at
Barrogill Castle, within sight of the Pentland Firth. A
wood surrounds the east side of the castle. The trees
.are planted thick, and they are protected by a high wall.
But at the point at which the wall ends, the tops of the
trees are sharply cut away as if by a scythe. They are
chilled and eaten down by the sea-drift.
The best wood in the northern part of the county is
at Castlehill, where the imported trees are protected by
rising grounds on all sides. The only tree that thrives
in Caithness is the common bourtree or elder. The
trembling poplar, the white birch, and the hazel, are
also occasionally found in sheltered places.
But though the county of Caithness is for the most
3
30 THE COAST SCENERY. CHAP. iv.
part flat and cheerless, it is redeemed from monotony by
its glorious coast scenery. On the east, as well as on the
west, the rocks jut out into the ocean in stupendous
cliffs. "When the stormy winds do blow" is the
time to see the wonders of the north — at Duncansby
Head, at Dunnet Head, at Holborn Head, at Noss Head,
and, indeed, all round the coast. At Wick Bay, only a
few years ago, a tremendous storm from the east dashed
to pieces the new breakwater, lilting up stones of tons
weight and dashing them on the beach, — thus setting at
defiance the skill and ingenuity of the engineer who had
built it.
Duncansby Head is also exposed to the full fury of
the North Sea. It is a continuous precipice about two
miles in extent, and of a semicircular shape. It is re-
markable for its stupendous boldness, and the wild and
striking appearance of the chasms and goes by which it
is indented. In front of the cliff are three Stacks, which
have been washed round by successive storms, and
stand out bare and red several hundred yards from the
mainland. The cliff consists principally of old red sand-
stone, and partly of Caithness slate.
The huge, long, white-crested billows, lashed into fury
by the storm, chase each other up the beach, and burst
with astounding force. At high tide, they dash up the
cliffs and rush over the summit into the mainland.
Fiom thence they run down over the inland slopes, into
a rivulet which joins the Pentland Firth near John o'
Groat's. From the summit of the cliff a fine view is
obtained of the Skerries at the mouth of the Firth, of
CHAP. iv. CAITHNESS OLD CASTLES. 31
Stroma, the island in the current, and of the Orkney
Islands as far as the bold headland of Hoy.
Along the east coast, numberless castles are built
upon the cliffs. They are mostly in ruins. Many ot
them are prehistoric. Wick Castle, Girnigo Castle,
and Keiss Castle, are the oldest. No one knows who
built them. Most probably they are the strongholds of
the Scandinavian chiefs, who, at some unknown period,
took possession of the lowland part of the county.
The castle of Al-Wick — or, as it is usually called, the
Auld Man of Wick — seems to be one of the most ancient.
It consists of a grim-looking tower or keep of the rudest
masonry, perforated here and there with arrow -slits.
It is three stories high; but entirely roofless and floorless.
It is surrounded by an outer wall, within which are the
ruins of some old houses. A deep broad. moat defends
it on the land side. At present, it forms an excellent
landmark to vessels approaching that part of the coast.
Girnigo Castle, situated on the promontory of Noss
Head, is also very old. Castle Sinclair, which was added
to it, has a history, which Girnigo has not. But the
old builders were so much better than the new ones,
that while Castle Sinclair has fallen to ruins, Girnigo
Castle stands as firmly as it did at the time at which it
was built.
The constantly rolling sea, ever for ever, washes itself
against the rocks, grinding away the softest parts.
The red sandstone goes first, leaving long hollows
amongst the slates, through which the sea drives in-
land. In stormy weather, the waves wash in with
GIRNIGO CASTLE.
greatforce, some-
times a quarter of a
mile or more* and at the"
far end, they d^ive up into
the open air, blowing like a whale.
These hollows under the rocks are
called goes or gyoes. They are common x^
all round Caithness. One of them is
near Wick, at the castle of Al - Wick.
Eobert Dick describes another near Thurso,
which will be found referred to in a future part
Of the Story. [GIRNIGO CA
From the northern part of Caithness, where the
ground is comparatively flat inland, and full of lochs
from Thurso to Wick, the land gradually ascends,
until we find hills and then mountains close upon
the borders of Sutherland. Morven, Maiden Pap,
AGRICULTURE. 32
and Skerry Ben, form part of a range of mountains,
extending from Sandside Bay on the north, to Helms-
dale on the south. Morven is the great mountain of
Caithness. It is 2331 feet high. It is regarded as the
great weather-glass of the county. When the mist
gathers about its base, rain is sure to follow ; but when
the mist ascends to the top and disperses, leaving the
majestic outline of the mountain exposed to view, then
the weather will be fine. " During harvest especially,"
says a local writer, "all eyes are directed towards it;
and it never deceives.
" In vision I behold tall Morven stand,
And see the morning mist distilling tears
Around his shoulders, desolate and yrand."
From what we have already stated, it will be under-
stood that Caithness is by no means a fertile county.
Until a comparatively recent period agriculture was in
a very backward state. When Pennant visited the
county about a hundred years ago, he describes it as
little better than " an immense morass," with here and
there some fruitful spots of oats and here, and much
coarse grass.
In those places where any agriculture was carried
on, the women did the work of horses. They carried
the manure on their backs to the field; and did the
most of the manual labour. The land could scarcely
be called ploughed. The Caithness plough was one-
stilted. It was dragged over the ground by a yoke of
oxen, driven by a woman. There were neither barns
nor granaries in the county. The corn was preserved
34 ROADS.
in the chaff in bykes, which were low stacks in the
shape of bee-hives, thatched quite round.
Thurso, the chief place in Caithness, carried on a
trade with Norway and Denmark, long before it began
to communicate with the rest of Scotland. The sea
was by far the easiest mode of transit; and all tne
people along the coast were sailors. But, indeed, there
was very little traffic to be carried on. The only two
clusters of houses in the county were Thurso and
Wick. Thurso must have been the more important
place, as it not only had a church, but also a bishop —
the Bishop's Palace being close at hand. Thurso was a
small fishing town, and Wick contained only a few
hundred inhabitants. But the fishing ha,s long left
Thurso, and gone to Wick. " The only fishing at
Thurso now," said Dick, "is sillocks and sillock scrae.
The salmon fishing, however, is the best in the king-
dom."
There were then no roads in Caithness. The exten-
sive hollows in the flat slaty ground were filled with
morasses. There was not a single wheel-cart in the
county before 1780. Crubbans were the substitutes for
carts. They were wicker baskets. Two of them, hung
one on each side of a pony from a. wooden saddle, be-
neath which was a cushion of straw, carried corn, goods,
and other articles. Six or seven ponies thus loaded,
says Henderson in his Agricultural Survey of Caithness,
might be seen going in a kind of Indian file, each tied
by the halter to the other's tail, a person leading the
front horse, and each of the others was pulled forward
THE ORD OF CAITHNESS 35
by the tail of the one before him. Yet traffic was car-
ried on throughout England in the same manner, about
three hundred years ago.
Caithness was behind in everything. The only geo-
graphy of the county was known from Danish sources.
Timothy Pont made his first map in 1608. It was shut
out from the rest of Scotland by the mountainous county
of Sutherland.* It was long before a road could be
made to enable the people to communicate with their
countrymen farther south. The only road lay along the
eastern shore, among rocks and sand, which were often
covered by the tide. The inland road lay over the Ord
of Caithness. The Ord is a formidable pass between
Sutherland and Caithness. It is situated at the eastern
boundary of the two counties. There is a lofty mountain
on one side of the road, and a steep precipice on the
other, at the foot of which is the sea.
The Ord is the termination of a long mountain ridge,
and is the brow of a steep hill overhanging the ocean. On
the Sutherland side, the headland is cleft into a gorge of
great depth, which runs a long way inland. The old
road — before the present bridge was built over the gorge
— was a mere path or shelf along the outer edge of the
promontory twelve hundred feet above the sea. When
* It may seem strange to us that the extreme north-western corner
of Great Britain should be called Sutherland. No inhabitants of Scot-
land could have bestowed so inappropriate a name. It was evidently
given by a people living still farther to the , north. Sutherland, in
short, is the mainland to the south of the Orkney Jarldom. Here, as
well as in Caithness, we find numerous Norwegian names. The barren
uplands were left to the Gael.— TAYLOB, Words and Places.
THE ORD OF CAITHNESS.
the weather was stormy, it could not be passed in safety.
Even in fair weather, the road was so difficult and dan-
gerous that, when the chaise of a landed proprietor had
to pass it, a force of fifteen or twenty persons was
employed to help on the carriage and horses.
JBD OF CAITHNESS.
Pennant, who travelled into many strange places,
described the pass as " infinitely more high and horrible
than Penmaenmaur in Wales ;" and another writer says,
" that if any stumble thereupon, they are in danger of
falling down a precipice into the sea at the bottom of
the rock, which is very terrible to behold." The old
path is still to be seen from Helmsdale. It is like a
ROAD OVER BEXC11EILT. 37
sheep-track winding up the steep brow of the hill, some
three or four hundred feet above the rolling surge.
The road to Thurso from the Ord road was almost
impassable. It was a mere horse track over the hill of
Bencheilt. This road was made passable for carriages
through the energy of Sir John Sinclair. The Abbe"
Gregoire denominated Sir John " the most indefatigable
man in Europe." To him the improvement of the county
of Caithness in a great measure belongs. He was born
at Thurso Castle, an ancient edifice built by the sixth
Earl of Caithness. It has since been pulled down to
make room for a spick-and-span new castle, much less
picturesque than the old one. It stood almost within
sea-mark on Thurso Bay. In stormy weather, the sea
spray sometimes passed over the roof. Miss Catherine
Sinclair has said that fish have been caught with a line
from the drawing-room window ; and vessels have been
wrecked so close under the turrets, that the voices of
the drowning sailors have been heard.
When Sir John succeeded to his estates, three-fourths
of Caithness consisted of deep peat-moss, and of hills
covered with heath, or altogether naked. On arriving at
his majority, he determined upon the improvement of
his estates, and of the county generally. One of the
first things that he did was to endeavour to make a roaa
to Thurso over Bencheilt, in the centre pf the county.
He himself surveyed the road and marked out its lines.
He called together twelve hundred and sixty labourers
to meet him early one morning, and set them all simul-
taneously to work. They began at the dawn of day,
3*
38 SJK JOHN SINCLAIR. CHAP. iv.
and before nightfall, the sheep-track, six miles in
length, was converted into a road perfectly easy for
carts and carriages. This showed what energy could
accomplish.
The young laird was not satisfied with that. He
formed a large number of farms on his own estate. He
enclosed, drained, and reduced them to order, entirely at
his own expense. He built bridges ; he made roads ; he
introduced the best cattle ; he provided the best turnip,
rye-grass, and clover seeds ; he enjoined upon his farmers
to adopt a regular rotation of crops ; and in a short
time converted what had been a barren wilderness into
a well-cultivated district. He enclosed on his own
estate about 12,000 English acres of waste land, all of
which eventually repaid the outlay. Among his other
achievements, he introduced the Cheviot breed of sheep
into the whole^of Scotland, and thus doubled the value
of the grazing grounds north of the Tweed.
Sir John tried to introduce trees at Thurso, but he
found it difficult to make them grow. It was necessary
to dig a hole of large dimensions through the subsoil of
slaty rock, over which the tenants of the neighbouring
townlands were obliged annually, for seven years, to
heap a large mound of compost. And even when the
trees did grow they were often blown away by the
furious winds from the north and west.
Sir John even tried to introduce nightingales into
Caithness ! But Nature baffled his efforts. He obtained
nightingales' eggs from the London bird fanciers. They
were substituted for those of the robin redbreast. The
THURSO NIGHTINGALES.
eggs were hatched. The young nightingales soon flew
about the bushes round Thurso Castle. But so soon as
the summer had ended, the birds disappeared and never
returned.
DUNCANSBY HEAD.
CHAPTER V.
DICK BEGINS BUSINESS.
DICK began business for himself at the age of twenty.
His house was in Wilson's Lane, not far from the old
church. The river Thurso flows past the bottom of the
lane into the sea, which is close at hand.
Mr. Smith, of Olrig, was the proprietor. After he
had built a small oven behind the house and added it
to the shop, Dick went over from his father's house to
live there and begin his trade. The only other baker in
the town was a Mr. Mackay, who was also a Baptist
preacher.
There was not much trade to be done ; but Eobert
baked a little every day, and sold his bread over the
counter. When he was out, his sister Jane attended to
the business. He contrived to live on very small earn-
ings, for he had only himself to provide for. He required
very little capital, for every day's batch returned the
money's worth of the flour, as well as the profit to the
baker.
Shortly after he began business, we find him writing
to Mr. Aikman, of Tullibody, and requesting him to send
four bags of third flour, one bag of second, and one bag
of best. Mr. Aikman sent the flour to Thurso. Dick
CHAP v. CONCHOLOGY. 41
remitted £5 ; but his old master said " he need not re-
mit the balance, as he would have need of the money."
In fact, three years elapsed before Eobert Dick could
send him the balance of the account.
When Dick's bread was sold, or while his sister Jane
was watching the shop, he went out to walk along the
shore. He crossed the river by the stepping-stones while
the tide was out, and was at once in Thurso East. He
passed under the castle and walked along the shore, some-
times as far as Dunnet Bay. He delighted to see the
long rolling waves come thundering in and break upon
the shore in clouds of spray. The broken surge, churned
into foam, rushed rapidly up the beach with the speed
of a racehorse, and then rushed rapidly back again.
Even in calm weather, there is a ceaseless moaning of
the surge, indicating the remnant of some storm far away
in the Atlantic. When the storm comes nearer the
land, the waves are stronger and louder, spending their
billows on the shore. " Sometimes," says Dick, " the
noise of the bay is heard booming over the town with a
terrible roar."
His walks along the shore awakened in him a taste
for conchology. He gathered shells by the score, and
arranged them in a cabinet. He gathered up numerous
things besides shells. He found a specimen of the nut
of the cow-itch shrub of the West Indies, — such a
nut as the brother-in-law of Columbus found floating
near Madeira, which led the great navigator to infer the
existence of a western continent. He found also wood,
drilled by the Teredo navalis, and many specimens of
42 BOTANY.
seaweed, which had been washed by south-westerly
winds from the Gulf of Mexico.*
Shells, and the mollusks which inhabit them, were
not, however, sufficient to occupy his attention. He
had plenty of spare time. Indeed, after his bread was
baked, his work was nearly over for the day. He had
to set the sponge at night, ready for next day's batch.
But that occupied comparatively little time. Meanwhile
he was busy with his books and his studies.
He did not make any companions. He had never
felt much of the comforts of home. His social nature
had been almost soured there. The feeling never left
him, but clung to him through life. He therefore
roamed about by himself along the shore, or studied
by himself in his solitary household.
He reverted to his study of botany, though it might
not be supposed that Thurso was a fit place for such
a study. The neighbourhood was without trees, with-
out hedges — with only flagstones dividing one field from
another. Yet the seeing eye is never without proper
aliment. It finds wonders in everything. Where the
unseeing eye sees nothing, it detects differences, and
varieties, and classifications. But he did not as yet go
* In a specimen of fucoid, about two and a half feet in length, which
I owe to the kindness of Mr. Dick of Thurso, there are stems continu-
ous throughout, that though they ramify into from six to eight branches
in that space, they are quite as thick at top as at bottom. They are
the remains, in all probability, of a long flexible fucoid, like those
fucoids of the intertropical seas, that, streaming slantwise in the tide,
rise not uufrequently to the surface in fifteen and twenty fathoms water.
— HUGH MILLER, Rambles of a Geologist.
CHAP. v. THE SEA SHORE. 43
deeply into the subject, for he could not afford to buy
books. Nevertheless, he accurately distinguished the
differences of one plant from another. The further
pursuit of botany was held in reserve for some future
time.
About two years after Robert Dick had begun
business in Thurso, his father was promoted to the office
of Collector of Excise, and was removed to Haddington,
where he ended his official career. His eldest sister
Agnes married Mr. Alexander, and afterwards removed
to Tullibody. When all the family had left, Eobert was
left alone — literally alone. He then took into his
service Annie Mackay, a Highland woman, who served
him long and faithfully to the close of his life. She
was his housekeeper, and attended to the shop while
Dick was on his journeys through Caithness.
Yet Robert, though alone, was not solitary. Nature
was all in all to him. He enjoyed his walks along the
sea-shore, and sang to himself as he went along. He
wandered about Dunnet Head, and the rocky cliffs at
Holborn Head. He saw many things that had never
been seen before. He detected the scales of fish, and
even the heads of fossil fish amongst the rocks.
The Clett on Holborn Head was one of his favourite
spots. It is a huge isolated mass of rock, composed of
dark flagstone. It is inaccessible by human foot. The
rock is quite perpendicular. The surges of the ocean
have washed it away from the mainland. It is screaming
with sea birds. Miles away you hear the cries of the
okies, or auks, which haunt it. They sit in long rows,
44 THE COUNTRY INLAND. CHAP. v.
" like a lot of bottles on end," as Dick described them,
on the ledges of the Clett, and there they 'breed and
bring up their young.
Here, as on the east coast, great Goes are found. The
sea dashes in through the washable rocks, and drives up
in clouds of vapour far inland. One of the Goes is
about three miles in length. In great storms the sea
deluges the whole headland, and pours back in clouds of
spray. In some places the rocks are hollowed into
arches by the surge, and in great gales the sea pours
into them with a rush of foam. To the west of Holborn
Head there is a long line of projecting headlands, and
in a clear day Cape Wrath may be seen some fifty
miles off. There is no land between you and the coasts
of Labrador — nothing but the boundless ocean.
Dick also explored the country inland. The river
Thurso was the scene of some of his future discoveries.
He went far up to the castle of Dirlot, one of the oldest
buildings in Caithness. He went up the hills near
Thurso, from which he saw the gigantic Morven far away
in the distance. He visited the Eeay hills and the Shurery
hills, which were afterwards his favourite botanic
grounds. He was thus laying the foundations of his
future knowledge, not only in botanical, but in geological
science.
In the meantime he turned aside to pursue the study
of entomology. Here his seeing eye was of great use ;o
him. He worked out the natural history of the insects of
Caithness from his own personal observation. Notliing
escaped him. He collected no less than 256 specimens
CHAP. v. BEETLE GATHERING. 45
of beetles in nine months, — in fact, all that could be
collected in Caithness. He collected 220 specimens
of bees, and 240 specimens of butterflies and moths.
These are all to be seen in the Thurso Museum. They
are now covered with living moths, grubs, and woodlice,
and fast going to decay.
The boys soon found out the strange baker and his
ongoings. Boys are great critics. They immediately
detect nonconformity. When they saw Dick coming out
of his shop in his chimney-pot hat, his swallow-tailed
coat, and jean trousers, they were immediately after
him. They followed him at a little distance. He went
up the green sward alongside the river ; knelt down on
his knees ; crawled onward ; and then brought his hand
slap down. It was perhaps some insect that he had
been long seeking for. The boys saw him take off his
hat, put in the object, perhaps impaling it with a pin.
When Dick went away, the boys went up to the spot
to see what he had been about. They found nothing
whatever, only green grass. They did not know that
Dick had found a splendid beetle. They went home to
their friends, and told them what they had seen. It
thus became known that he was an insect-collector.
What could he want with the beetles and grubs ? Surely
he could not put them into his bread ! Faugh ! Then
they whispered about that they had got a mad baker
amongst them.
Dick, however, made friends of the boys. He said to
them, "Whenever you can find a rare butterfly, bring it to
me, and I will give you something for it. If it be in
46 THE DRAGON FLY. CHAP. v.
any way injured I will not have it." Away the boys
went hunting butterflies. Sometimes they brought him
in a good specimen, and he gave them sixpence for it.
Sixpence was a fortune to them. It bought no end of
tops, clagum, and sweeties. If the butterfly was of no
use, he would take it in his hand, and let it out of the
back window. " Perhaps," he said, " they may bring
something valuable next time." When an unusual
butterfly was brought to him, he took great care of it,
saw it go through its various transformations, and noted
the results. s
His love of insects became known, and his curiosity
about them spread throughout the neighbourhood.
Country people called upon him and brought what they
thought rare things. One day a man called upon him,
and, standing right before him, took out of his pocket a
paper lucifer box, and cautiously screwing off the lid, he
said " See !" Dick looked into the box, and seizing the
creature within it by the tail, he pulled it out, and then
shoved it in again. " Won't it sting ?" asked the man.
" Oh, no," said Dick, " it is a very humble creature, —
only the Green Dragon My : it lives by devouring small
flies." " Oh !" said the man, " the country folks call it
the Bull Adder, and they say that it stings." " I
wouldn't have taken it by the tail if it did." "Won't you
have it ?" " No !" The man accordingly went away
with the dragon-fly in his box.
Robert Dick's mind was athirst for knowledge at this
time. He was searching for facts of all sorts. In 1835
he attended three courses of lectures delivered by Mr.
CHAP. v. PHRENOLOGY. 47
Keir. They were upon astronomy, geology, and phreno-
logy. He was greatly interested by the lectures. He
not only heard them closely, but followed them up by
study. He was particularly impressed by the lectures
on astronomy. Halley's Comet was then careering
through the heavens. Appearing, as it did, once in every
seventy-five years, it was calculated to make a deep
impression upon his thoughtful mind.
He borrowed such books on astronomy as he could
obtain, and read them eagerly. He thus gathered a
general notion of the subject ; but he had no means of
following it up. Telescopes were unknown at Thurso.
He could only look up to the heavens, and admire and
wonder. He was thus in a measure forced to inquire
into such matters as lay within his own reach. He was
sent back to mother earth, the secrets of which still
remained to be unveiled. Hence his love for geology,
and the beginning of his knowledge of the rocks of
Thurso, which he first obtained from Keir's lectures.
Phrenology also excited his deep interest. The sub-
ject had been made popular throughout Scotland by
the lectures and works, and probably by the personal
influence, of George Combe of Edinburgh. Though the
" science," as it was then called, is now nearly forgotten,
it was then the subject of much discussion. George
Combe started the Phrenological Magazine to advocate
his views, and to maintain the principles of phrenology.
He also established the Phrenological Lecture Hall and
Museum, where he collected an immense number of
busts of distinguished and notorious characters.
BOTANY.
Dick, in his enthusiasm, had his head shaved, and a
cast was taken of it in plaster of Paris. He gave half
a crown to a brave little girl, and induced her to have
her head shaved; after which he made a cast of her
head in the usual way. He sent to Edinburgh and had
a phrenological cranium from O'Neil, the famous cast-
maker. Writing to his eldest sister, he said, — " Mind,
Nan, that when you seek for a wife for Robert, you must
find one with a high forehead. None else are genuine."
But Eobert could not go on looking at people's heads,
and studying their development. Big heads and little
heads, big bumps and little bumps, seemed a profitless
study. So he condescended to study more practical
subjects, — things that lie at every man's door. He could
no ': grasp the heavens. He could understand the planetary
system ; but he could not unravel the deeper meanings
of the vast circle cf creation. He could, however, de-
scend to the things that lay at his feet, — to his commoD
mother earth, which is as full of wonders as the stars.
He could pursue his first love, — the love of flowers and
plants, which he had pursued while wandering among
the Ochil hills.
Dick was still a bachelor. He had a house and a'
shop to manage ; and some of his friends advised him to
marry. His old master, Mr. Aikman of Tullibody, writing
to him in 1834, said : — " Mrs. Aikman sends her kind
respects to you. She is happy to think that you are
still a bachelor, as her family is mostly girls." Another
friend at Greenock, where Dick had lived when a
journeyman, wrote to him thus : — " My wife sends her
CHAP. v. BISCUIT MAKING. 43
best wishes. She hopes you will soon get married. You
are losing time completely. If you wait much longer I
will be speaking to you about my daughter. We are
beating up. We have two married already. Come,
come, look sharp!" But the fly, however skilfully
thrown, could not draw the fish from his depths.
We have been informed that Eobert once made a
proposal of marriage to a young lady, but that she refused
him. Some overtures of reconciliation were afterwards
made. But he had been refused once; he would
not be refused again. The disappointment only threw
him back upon himself. He became more recluse, soli-
tary, and companionless, than before. He was satisfied
to remain unmarried, with Annie Mackay as his servant
and housekeeper.
Among the things which occupied Dick's attention,
was a mechanical method which he proposed for work-
ing up his biscuit, instead of using the baker's rail. For
it must be known that he was the best biscuit-maker in
Thurso. He had brought this art from Tullibody. Be-
sides, his master sent him the proper receipts for the
different kinds of biscuit and " parlyment." In making
biscuit, the practice is to work the dough in the trough ;
the baker sitting on a rail, bumping the stuff up and
down in a radiating manner. Dick thought this might
as well be done by machinery. He got a mechanic to
help him to perfect the machine ; but though it was
completed, it was not used. His trade was not great ;
and he found that his own hands were amply sufficient
for the purpose of making his daily bread.
CHAPTEE VI
BOTANICAL WANDERINGS.
ROBERT DICK proceeded with his study of natural
science. From conchology he went on to entomology
and botany. He gathered insects while he collected
plants. They both lay in the same beat. After his
bread was baked in the morning and ready for sale,
he left the shop to the care of his housekeeper, and
went out upon a search. Or, he would take a journey
to the moors and mountains, and return home at night
to prepare for the next day's baking.
He began to' make his entomological collection about
the year 1836, when he was about twenty- five years
old. He worked so hard at the subject, and made so
many excursions through the country, that in about
nine months he had collected nearly all the insect tribes
that Caithness contained. He spent nearly every
moment that he could spare until he thought he had
exhausted the field.
He worked out the subject from his own personal
observation. He was one of those men who would not
take anything for granted. Books were an essential
end ; but his knowledge was not founded on books, but
on Nature. He must inquire, search, and observe for
CHAP. vi. CAREFUL OBSERVATION. 51
himself. He was not satisfied with the observations of
others. He must get at the actual facts. He must
himself verify everything stated in books.
He was not satisfied with the common opinion as
to the species or genus to which any individual of the
insect world belonged. He tested and tried everything
by the touchstone of science and careful observation.
If he had any doubts about an insect, from a gnat to a
dragon-fly, he would search out the grub, watch the
process of its development from the larva and chrysalis
state, until the fly emerged before him in unquestion-
able identity. It will thus be observed that he was
from the first imbued with the true scientific animu? ;
and in the same spirit he continued to find out and
discover the true workings of Nature.
The Thurso people did not quite understand the
proceedings of their young baker. He made good bread,
and his biscuits were the best in the town. But he
was sometimes seen coming back from the country
bespattered with mud, — perhaps after a forty or fifty
miles' journey on the moors in search of specimens.
What were they to make of this extraordinary conduct ?
It could have no connection with baking. What could
he have been doing during these long journeys ?
He was now doing fairly in business. He was not
yet distracted by the competition that afterwards ruined
him. His wants were very small. He had only him-
self and his housekeeper to provide for. He was
accordingly able to save money, and with his surplus
capital he bought books.
52 PURCHASES OF BOOKS.
"How painfully, how slowly," he once said in a
letter to Hugh Miller, "man accumulates knowledge!
How easily, how quickly, it escapes and is gone !
Blessings on the noble art of printing, under the shadow
of whose dominion, thoughts, words, and deeds, are
piled up like the proliferous corn of old in the store-
houses of Pharaoh ! "
Dick was now buying his flour from a merchant in
Leith. He requests the merchant to send him books as
well as flour. The books were purchased, packed in
paper in the centre of the bags, and despatched to
Thurso, by way of Aberdeen, Wick, and the Pentland
Firth. We find him thus receiving the Gardener's
Dictionary, the Naturalist's Magazine, and the Flori-
graphia Britannica. He also directs the flour merchant
to buy him a microscope, and to send it him as soon as
possible. Hie correspondent says, "I have at length
bought for you the long-wished-for microscope. It is a
very powerful one. I hope you will find yourself
amply rewarded for your time and expense." The
microscope was despatched in July 1835, and it reached
Dick in safety. He found that, in the course of his
investigations into the minutiae of objects, he could not
do without the microscope.
The flour merchant afterwards sent Dick numerous
volumes of the Naturalist's Library, and bought for him a
copy of Hogarth's Works, — the large edition, with the
original plates restored. We find, from the bill of
lading accompanying the flour and the volume, that its
oinding cost Dick two guineas. Other books, relating
CHAP. vi. A DEVOURING READER. 53
principally to botany, conchology, and geology, shortly
followed. Sometimes a phrenological cast from O'Neil
was imbedded in the flour. We find, from the com-
munications that passed between the correspondents,
that Dick paid his accounts promptly, — usually within
a fortnight after the delivery of the flour.
When the books arrived at Thurso, and were
unearthed from the flour, Dick set to work and devoured
them. For Dick was a great reader, almost a ferocious
reader. He read everything about air, earth, sea, and
heaven, as the multitude of books collected by him
sufficiently indicate. He had plenty of leisure. When
his bread was baked, and ready for sale, he had nothing
else to do for the day but read and wander. When the
weather was wet and stormy, as it often was, he read,
drew, and wrote letters to far-away friends. For he
had many correspondents, as the following pages will
show.
When the weather was fine, he set out on his walks,
along the shore, or up the country, sometimes as far as
Morven. '"Many is the walk," says one of his old
acquaintances, " which I have enjoyed in his company on
the sea-beach near Thurso Castle. I was once with him,
when I found a new shell, and it was truly delightful to
hear him explain its history and habits, as if it had been
his next-door neighbour, and he had known the tiny
thing all his life long. How kindly and meekly he
spoke, and how ready he was for a joke; and what
a keen perception he had of the ridiculous in everything
ihat crossed his observation. The same night we also
4
54 HIS WALKING POWERS. CHAP. vi.
found a curious sort of nut, which he told me had been
carried by the ocean currents and prevailing winds all
the way from the West Indies, and was cast up 011 the
beach just below Thurso Castle."
" On another occasion," says the same writer, " I
walked with him on a botanical excursion, as far as I
OLD THURSO CASTLE : FROM THE SHORE.
could, up the Thurso river; and I am not far from the
truth when I say that he talked all the way. ' I begin
slowly,' he said, referring to his walking, 'but we'll
improve before long,' and so it proved; for before he
had reached Oldfield he had got into a four-miles-an-
hour pace, and by the time we reached Isauld it was a
regular trot and race down the banks and across the
river to one of his favourite haunts. I cannot now
HIS LONELY JOURNEY. 55
remember what were the special prizes of the excursion,
though I well remember that we came home richly
loaded with things, to me rich and rare, which, with his
usual kindness, he named and labelled for me next day.
After a lapse of more than sixteen years, I lighted
accidentally one day on a pile of plants, collected princi-
pally in Caithness, and forming my first herbarium. It
had passed through the hands of Mr. Dick, and bears his
sign-manual on every sheet. Any one would say it is
the handwriting of an educated man — a bold, full,
fluent hand — without any trace of the crampedness and
angularity of those who earn their bread by manual toil.
Besides, the technical names of the plants are always
spelt correctly."
But it was very seldom that he made his botanical
excursions with others. He almost invariably went
alone. When he had arranged his work, and had a
journey in view, he had everything in order by the hour
that he intended to set out ; and then nothing would
detain him. When about to start on a long journey, he
wore thick-soled boots, with hob-nails in them. He
soaked his stockings with water ; and when he came to
a burn he soaked them again. He took with him some
ship biscuit, which was easily carried. This constituted
his principal refreshment during his long journeys. The
burn or the mountain tarn supplied beverage enough for
one of the most temperate and enduring of men. " I
never drink much when travelling," he used to say. "It
takes the wind out of me, and seriously interferes with
my comfort and endurance/''
56 SPRING IN THE NORTH. CHAP. vr.
How he delighted in spring ! He welcomed its
approach with joy. The winters were usually cold and
stormy. The cold winds blew violently over Caithness,
and prevented any green thing appearing on the surface.
But Dick was up before the sun was up. He was out
before the flowers were out. He watched them thrust-
ing their way upwards into the air, watched them while
they blossomed into flowers, and watched them while
they shrank into decay.
Spring is late in the north. Even at the beginning
of May the earth is still brown. Only in some sheltered
spots by the river-side are any green things to be seen.
There are very few hedges near Thurso. " On the 4th of
May," says Dick, " the buds are only swelling. There
is no ' May blossom ' in Caithness. Even at the end of
May the few hedges are not in full leaf." The first
flowers that appear are the yellow Coltsfoot, the yellow
Primrose, the yellow Buttercup, the Marsh Marigold,
the little yellow Celandine, and a few blue flowers ot
the Dog Violet. These are all the beauties of the
northern flora in May. The cold winds are still sweep-
ing over the county.
Dick went out one morning at the end of May,
towards the Eeay hills, to see how the flowers were
growing. The morning was cold and cheerless. The
flag fences along the road were hung with rain pearls.
When he reached the Reay links, he found the ground
covered with cowslips. From thence he went up the
hills to the waterfall to gather ferns. They were only
beginning to expand. The summer moss, Polytrichum
CHAP. vi. FERNS IN JUNE. 57
was there in thousands. By and by everything would
be in bloom.
Even on the 24th of June — midsummer day —
the ferns were not fully out. " The first fern I saw,"
says Dick, " was Lastrea dilatata, but it was so ugly that
it was not worth looking at a second time. The next I
saw was Asplenium trichomanes, or Common Maiden
Hair ; but the specimens were too small for my pur-
pose. The next was the Black-stalked Spleenwort. I
passed through a forest of brackens, and saw the Northern
Hard Fern, and the Black Bog-rush — a plant rare in
Scotland, even on the west coast. I passed on and went
up-hill, where I saw the Beech Fern and many other
plants, of which European Sanicle was the most abun-
dant. It was once thought to cure every disease, and
was called ' Self-heal.' I saw the Common Polypody,
and the Oak Polypody. Up the hill the Foxglove was
the most conspicuous. I also found "Woodruff, Spotted-
leaved Hawkweed, and Persian Willow; white roses and
red roses ; and other plants too numerous to mention.
I wound along by a sheep-road to the hill-top, and lay
down, looking across the dead level of the county. I
counted thirteen lochs ! "
At the beginning of July, he adds, — "We are just
getting into first-rate order here as to wild plants. We
shall by and by have a grand display of yellow flowers
— all yellow ; tens of thousands, and ten times ten, —
all destined to pass away after fulfilling the great end
for which they came into flower — leaving seed for times
to come times without end."
58 CAITHNESS FLORA.
On the 24th of July he says, " Now it gets warmer.
The corn becomes half full of marigold. The heather
begins to bloom. I made for the seaside," he adds,
" and found a butterfly sleeping on the heather ! Poor
thing !" As the summer heat increases, the Caithness
grasses, plants, and flowers, make their appearance in
succession. " People in the south," says Dick, " think
that as Caithness is so far north, its flora must differ
greatly from that in their own neighbourhood. No
doubt the general aspect of a district in the south
differs very strikingly in its prominent features. And
yet, after all, we have very few plants that may not also
be found in the south.
" The Caithness flora is not alpine — not even sub-
alpine. I know of only three Baltic plants in Caith-
ness ; and of these only one is a rarity. Indeed it is
peculiar to Caithness ; for Caithness is the only British
district in which it grows. We have the Baltic rush by
the river-side. But then Juncus balticus grows at Barry
Sands, near Dundee. Last summer, I was much pleased
to meet the Baltic rush growing in a small marsh about
six miles inland. I was highly delighted. I had never
seen it so far from the sea."
Robert Dick proceeded with the study of botany in
the most resolute way. He would take nothing for
granted. Where others had observed, he also would
observe, and verify for himself. Hence, with the
utmost toil and labour, he wandered over Caithness, to
see the plants growing in their native habitats. He
must find them where they grew, and study them, from
CHAP. vi. THE NORTHERN MIDSUMMER. 59
time to time, on the spot. He determined to master
the entire subject. He mapped out the country into
districts, and resolved carefully to examine each of them
in turn. It was a long and arduous work, but he suc-
cessfully carried out his purpose. At length the plants
of Caithness, from one end of the county to the other
— from the Morven hills in the south to Dunnet Head
in the north — from Noss Head in the east to Halladale
Head in the west — became as familiar to him as the
faces of familiar friends.
The banks of the river Thurso were among his favourite
haunts. He searched the valley in its remotest nooks, —
from its source in Bencheilt to its entrance into the
sea at Thurso. The flats along its serpentine course
abound in plants and grasses, which he scanned with the
true naturalist's eye. During the long summer nights,
when " day never darkens into mirk," he would make
journeys of forty or fifty miles, for the purpose of gather-
ing some favourite plant in its far-off native habitat.
He would return home in glory, bringing with him a
stem of grass, a flower, or a bulb.
During midsummer time in the north, it is light
nearly all the night through. The sun slightly descends
below the horizon, but the light still remains. Farther
north, the sun is seen at midnight. When it rises in
Caithness, the morning is a prolonged dawn. An eloquent
writer says, " The earth is most beautiful at dawn ; but
so very few people see it, and the few that do are
almost all of them labourers, whose eyes have no sight
for that wonderful peace, and coolness, and unspeakable
60 SOLITUDE NOT LONELINESS. CHAP. vi.
sense of rest and hope which He like a blessing on the
land. I think if people oftener saw the break of day
they would vow oftener to keep that dawning day holy
and would not so often let its fair hours drift away with
nothing done that were not best left undone."
Dick had many a long and lonely walk at sunset, at
dawn, and even at midnight. And yet he was not
lonely. His love of nature made a paradise of that bare
north country. His solitude was not loneliness. Solitude,
to him, was sweet society. He felt the companionship
of nature about him — on the moors, in the mountains,
and along the sea-shore. On calm evenings, when the sea
was at rest, he walked along the sands. The sea, though
quiet, seemed to breathe. It was like a living thing —
like a creature at rest.
Dick was an insatiable wanderer. When he had
done his daily work, and the weather was fine, he set
out on his botanical excursions. The county was all
before him. He would go to the Reay hills in search
of ferns ; or up the Thurso river in search of plants and
grasses ; or to the extreme point of Dunnet Head. His
eyes were always open to receive new impressions.
He wondered at the infinite varieties of nature, even in
that cold bare country. The lines written by Longfellow
upon another great lover of nature, are quite as appli-
cable to Dick :
" And he wandered away and away
With Nature, the dear old nurse,
Who sang to him night and day
The rhymes of the universe.
CHAP. vi. JO Y ON THE MOORS. 61
" And whenever the way seemed long,
Or his heart began to fail,
She would sing a more wonderful song,
Or tell a more marvellous tale."
He was more joyful on the moors than amid the
noise of streets. There he was alone with himself.
Not a sound was to be heard as he trudged along, save
the beating of his own heart — not a voice save that of
heaven. The clouds threw their purple shadows over
the moor. The grouse flew up with a whirr, whirr!
The blue mountain hare flew past him, though there
was no danger to be apprehended from him.
The deluge sometimes caught him. One afternoon, in
August, he walked thirty-two miles amidst soaking rain.
He had gone up to the top of a mountain, and found
only a plant of white heather. He walked and ran all
the way back, through moors, mosses, and heather,
jumping the flagstone fences ; and at last reached home
after nine and a half hours' walking and running. Yet
he was up next morning at six, and went through his
day's work as usual.
The following is a pleasanter day's adventure. It
was written to his sister at the end of August : — " Since
I wrote you last, I have managed to walk thirty-six
miles. Long, long ago, I chanced to find a Fern eighteen
miles up the country. It was not new, consequently
not a discovery ; but it was as good as such to me. It
had never crossed me in all my wanderings, or rather I
had never found it until then. No one told me where
it grew, for the best of reasons — that no one knew,
A HIGHLAND GLEN.
Since I first found it, I have every year gone a- walking
to it, just to visii it, again and again. Tliis year, I have
been there and back. The fern is very small : I enclose
a specimen. It is the Rue-leaved, or Wall Spleenwort.
The rocky spot in which it grows contains many other
ferns, some of them not at all common.
" Besides the wild rocky scenery of the place, there
is the only approach to a Highland glen which we have
in Caitliness. You set out from Thurso, and for the
first three or four miles there is nothing but corn and
bere on each side of the road ; and in dry leas, showers
of yellow Crowfoots and Ragworts ; with here and there
the blue heads of Scabious, or yellow Dandelions, or
yellow Hawkbits. All is yellow, yellow, dashed here
and there with masses of purple heath, redder by far
than you can possibly imagine.
" On you go? .diverting the time as you best can, — foi
all is wonderful. Then, at the distance of ten miles
from Thurso, you are on a hill-top, and you stand and
look around you. It is sweet to stand on a hill-top, and
gaze far up the country. Southwards you see farther
than you will ever wander. Of course you cannot tell
in words all that you see. You gaze eastward, north-
ward, and westward ; and then, after satiating yourself
with the prospect, you move down the farther side of
the hill, and get onward. Twelve miles, thirteen miles,
and many wonders are to be seen. And in due time
you get among the heather — heather everywhere — and
water black to drink. After going a mile through a
moor, you find yourself all at once on the brink of a
CHAP. vi. A LONELY MOOR. 63
precipice. You look down, and the waters are tumbling
and surging below; you are satisfied, and could sing
with joy too. After a time, I went my way home-
wards."
Dick often relieved his solitary moments by writing
to his sister, then living at Haddington. She had com-
plained to him of her lowness of spirits, when he thus
wrote : — " Cheer up, cheer up, my bonnie sister, and I
will tell you a story. One fine summer evening, not
long ago, your brother set out for the far-away hills.
He had been there before. The sun's heat was strong
when he set out (it was then August), but on he went,
past bothies, and houses, and milestones, until he was
'o'er the muir amang the heather.' Then past burns
and lochs, up a hill and over a hill, through a bog and
through a mire, until the sun set, and still he was toil-
ing on, with a long, long moor before him.
" Have you ever been all alone on a dreary moor,
when the shadows of the coming darkness are settling
down, and the cold clammy fog goes creeping up the
hill before you ? It is hard work and very uncanny
walking to pick your steps, as there is no proper light to
guide you. For you must remember that moors are not
bowling-greens or finely-smoothed lawns. They may
be flowery paths, it is true, but very rough ones, full of
man-traps, jags, and holes, into which, if you once get,
you may with difficulty wade your way out again.
"But on I went, — hop, step, and, jump, — now up,
now down, huffing and puffing, with my heart rapping
against my breast like the clapper of a mill. Then
64 A HILL-TOP AT NIGHT.
everything around looked so queer and so quiet, with
the mist growing so thick that it was difficult to distin-
guish one hill from another. Had I not been intimately
acquainted with every knowe and hillock of the country
through which I was travelling, I never could have got
through it. But, cheer up ! never lose heart ! There's
the little loch at last, and there's the hill ! Ay, but
your work's not done yet. You must climb the hill, for
what you seek is only upon its very top.
"It's rough work running through a moor, but it
takes your wind clean out of you to climb the hill that
lies beyond it. Were you ever up a hill-top at night,
your lee lane, with the mist swooping about you and
drooking your whiskers and eyebrows ? I daresay no.
But up this hill I had to clamber on my hands and
knees to find the plants that I had come in search of.
Yes ! I found them, though I was not quite sure until
the sun had rise*n to enlighten me. Then I found that
I had made out my point
"The light enabled me to make my way downhill.
Feeling thirsty, as well I might, I clambered over rocks,
and braes, and heather, to a very pretty loch at the hill-
foot. Picking my steps to a place full of large stones, I
came to a pair of them where I stooped down into the
clear water and drank my filL It is a grand thing to
dip your nose down into the water like a bird, with the
shingle and gravel lying below you, and then take your
early morning drink.
" But 1 have no time to say out my say. Only this,
sister, only this : never lose heart in the thickest mists
CHAP. vi. JOURNEY TO MORVEN. 65
you should ever get into ; but take heart, for assuredly
the sun will rise again, and roll them up and away, to
be seen no more."
In a future letter to his sister, written on the 12th
of November, he thus describes his journey to Morven
top : —
"On Tuesday last I set out at two o'clock in the
morning to go to the top of Morven. Morven is a hill
to the south of this, and by measurement on the map
28 miles as the crow flies. But taking into account the
windings and turnings of the road — up hill, down hill,
and along valleys — it is a good deal more : say 32 miles
from Thurso to Morven top.
" For the first 18 miles I had a road : the rest of
the way was round lochs, across burns, through mires
and marshes, horrid bogs, and hummocky heaths. I
tucked up my trousers, and felt quite at ease, though I
was ankle deep, and often deeper, for fifteen minutes on
end, and sometimes more. When I had a marsh to
wade I had it level, but when I had heather I had an
awful amount of jumping. ... At last, however, I
found myself on the top of the famous Morven.
" The Caithness people have few hills. They think a
mighty deal of Morven and Maiden Pap and Skerry Ben.
But these hills are not much to boast of. They are none
of them as big as books make them, and I laughed when
I thought of what people had said to me about this
wonderful Morven. One said that it was so very high
that it would take half a day to climb from the toot of
the hill to the top. Another account, given in a book,
66 MORVEN TOP.
stated that Morven could only be ascended from the
west side, being totally inaccessible on all other sides.
Downright nonsense! Morven is accessible on every
" My object in ascending the hill was to gather
plants, and of course I went up the steepest face to get
among the crags and stones near the top. Morven is
poor in plants. I found nothing new. True, the
season was too far gone, but there in sheltered spots
many of them still lived. On the top Alchemilla alpina
was in flower. I observed from the decayed leaves on
all sides that the various species were not many.
Braalnabin, a much lower hill, and much nearer to Thurso,
is better for ferns. Two weeks since I went there and
got nine different ferns all in bloom, though none of
them were new to me.
" Strange it was to look around me. The day was
cold and stormy. The sun was shining above me, but a
snowstorm was battling far below. Skerry Ben was
grey-white with snow. The sound of the wind among
the crags was like the roaring of the sea along the shore.
"I reached Morven top at eleven o'clock A.M. and
left it at two P.M.* It was now mid-day. The river of
Berridale runs at the foot of Morven. The best way
of getting over it is to wade through it ; but what of
that ? The Highlandman walks best when his feet are
wet, and so does the Lowlandman, if he could only be
persuaded to try. In going to Morven I had waded no
fewer than six burns, and at least a score of marshes.
My feet had not been dry since seven in the morning.
MORTEN MOUNTAIN.
WIND AND FIRE. 67
It was all the same to me which way I took. 'Onward !'
was the word. And yet the light of day was gone and
the moon was up, long long before I gained a civilised
road.
" The night became windy and stormy. Tremendous
sheets of hailstones and rain impeded my progress, so
much so that I thought, as Burns says, that ' the deil had
business on his hand,' and that he was determined to
finish my course with Morven. But no ! In spite of
hail, rain, wind, and fire (in fact I had them all), I got
home at three o'clock on Wednesday morning, having
walked, with little halt, for about twenty-four hours. I
went to bed, slept till seven o'clock, then rose, and went
to my work as usual. Sixty miles is a good walk to
look at a hill. Oh, those plants, those weary plants ! "
On one of his midnight excursions Dick was taken
for a poacher. It may be mentioned that the rivei
Thurso is one of the best salmon rivers in Scotland,
Indeed, in early spring, there is no river that comes up to
it. Sir John Sinclair boasted that on one occasion 2500
salmon had been caught at one haul — a draught that has
never been exceeded. The price paid by the salmon-
fishers is so high — at present £20 per rod monthly —
that the river is carefully watched to prevent poaching.
One night a gentleman in charge of the river went
out to see that the keepers were doing their duty, and
also to detect the poachers if he could. He went to a
particular spot where there were evident traces of poach-
ing. The river was then in good poaching order.
Just at the break of day, an hour or more before sun-
68 STALKING A POACHER. CHAP. vi.
rise, the watcher saw the figure of a man on the horizon,
some hundred yards distant. He shrank down, and crept
forward, watching the man's movements in the grey
dawn of morn. He was seen close by the river's side,
prowling up and down the banks. Surely this must be
a poacher. The man moved on. When he appeared
on some liigh bank, the watcher hid himself so that he
might not be seen between him and the horizon. He
crawled forward on all fours, stalking the poacher as
he would a deer.
At last, after nearly two hours' stalking and dodging,
the man suddenly disappeared in some low crevices in
the rocks, just below Dirlot Bridge. The sun was just
rising ; the watcher saw him crouching down, as if
hiding something amongst the ferns. Of course it must
be a salmon ! -With beating heart, he suddenly rushed
up to the man," and shouted, "Now I have caught you
poaching!"
The man's back was towards him. He was intently
gazing on some object before him. He turned round in
a composed manner, and said, " No, sir, I am not poach-
ing ; I am only gathering some specimens of plants !"
He then opened his handkerchief, which contained some
herbs, plants, and flowers. The watcher was disap-
pointed and disgusted. He had been crawling for two
hours on his hands and knees, coming up with his
man, and finding in his possession, not a salmon, but a
lot of things which, in his estimation, were worse than
useless !
Dick was then sixteen miles from Thurso, He had
CHAP. vi. THE STALKER DISAPPOINTED. 69
left home at midnight in search of his favourite botanical
specimens. Some of them were so minute and delicate
that they could only be seen at sun-dawn. It was only
at the break of day that they unfolded their delicate
tints, spread their leaves, and put forth their lovely
blossoms to the rising sun — perhaps revealed to the per-
fervid botanist by the glistening of a dew-drop.
Thus Dick was rewarded, but not the salmon-watcher
who had stalked him.
CHAPTER VII.
DISCOVERS THE "HOLY GRASS."
" IT is surely," said Dick to a Mend, " a strange time we
live in, when a poor devil cannot gather weeds without
being made a nine days' wonder of to some, and a butt
of derision to others."
Many people about Thurso, who saw Dick coming
into the town with his feet bedabbled with dirt and his
jean trousers wet up to the knees, said that he would
have been much better employed in attending to his
bakery than in wandering about the country in search
of beetles, bumbees, ferns, and wild plants.
But he never missed attending to his business.
Science was his pleasure; and the. pursuit of it became
his habit. One science led to another. From Con-
chology he went to Entomology, and from these he
went to Botany and Geology. Nothing came amiss to
him. He found " sermons in stones, and good in every-
thing."
For a long time he kept all that he did to him-
self. He had no friends to whom he could com-
municate the knowledge he had acquired. He was
only a poor baker. He did not mix with the educated
class. He spent his thrifty savings on books. His
CHAP. vii. RECEIVES A DEPUTATION. 71
dress cost little. His best clothes were many years old.
His long swallow-tailed coat with brass buttons was
considered antediluvian. His tall chimney-pot hat was
entirely out of date. Sometimes he was jeered at as
he passed along.
The boys knew that he had a love of nature. This
is the first taste that a country boy develops. Some-
times they were a little frightened at him. They viewed
him with awe, if not apprehension, when they encountered
him among the rocks with his hammer and chisel, or
came upon him as he emerged from a ditch, or from
behind a turf wall, in his pursuit of insects, or grasses,
or mosses. But their fear was always tempered by the
knowledge that any curiosity they alighted on, in the
shape of a stone, or a butterfly, or a beetle, would always
be repaid by the mysterious man when brought to him,
by a roll, or a cookie, or a biscuit, or sometimes by a
sixpence.
One boy — now a well-known minister — called upon
Dick when about twelve years old. He was sent, with
another boy, as a deputation from a number of their
schoolfellows, to ascertain something about the bones of
a cuttle-fish which they had found upon the shore. The
boys went into his shop with considerable fear; but
they found the baker in excellent humour. He brought
down from his library several books, which he spread
out among the loaves of bread on his counter, and
pointed out to them specimens of other cuttle-fish bones
that had been found. "We were much astonished,"
says the minister, " to be told that if we came back when
72 A GENERAL REFEREE. CHAP, vn
he was less busy, he would tell us more about it ; but
neither of us ever mustered courage for a second visit."
Another says — " Boys out bird-nesting on the braes,
or fishing by the river-side or amongst the rocks, have
often got from him a lesson in Natural History which
they would hardly forget in a lifetime."
Dick began to be considered a general referee. When
anything unusual was found — a plant, a stone, a butter-
fly, or a fish — he was at once appealed to. One day a
boy came in with a message from a fisherman. A sun-
fish had been caught in Thurso Bay, and brought ashore.
Dick was sent for to come and see it. He was busy
with his bread at the time, and could not leave the
bakehouse. The fisherman sent another message, saying
that if Dick did not come down immediately, he would
cut up the fish. "Then tell him to cut away," said
Dick ; " I don't like these peremptory orders."
A person who made considerable pretensions to
botanical knowledge met him one day, and asked if he
knew whether the county produced any Statice armeria.
"Oh!" said Dick, "if you will just call it Lea Gilly-
flower, or, if you please, Thrift, you will find it at any
roadside."
Another gentleman found a pretty flower growing
profusely in a small strath a few miles out of Thurso.
He took it to Dick. "Do you know that?" he asked.
" Yes," he said ; " you got it at the side of the burn at
Olrig." " How do you know that ?" " Because it grows
in two or three more places in Caithness ; but these are
loo far off for you to have been there to-day."
CHAP. vii. THE HOLY GRASS. 73
Another called upon him with a strange flower. " I
have got a new thing for you to-day, Mr. Dick !" " Oh
no," said Dick, " I know it quite well. You got it near
Shebster " — indicating a small hillock on a moor in the
western part of the parish of Thurso. " Yes," said the
inquirer; "but how do you know that?" "Simply
because it grows nowhere else in Caithness."
Thus, in course of time, he had pretty nearly mastered
the botany of Caithness. Among his other discoveries
of plants in Caithness, which had before been altogether
unknown, was his discovery of the Hierochloe lorealis,
or Northern Holy Grass, on the banks of the river
Thurso. It is called Holy Grass, because the people in
Sweden and Norway were in the habit of strewing their
churches with it. It emits a scent when lying in quan-
tities, and when trampled on by the feet of the wor-
shippers. It is detected, when growing, by its beautiful
spiral stem and its rich golden seed.
The plant had been first admitted into the British
Flora on the authority of Don. But no one else had
found it. After the death of Don the plant was placed
in the doubtful list of the London Catalogue, and it
. was finally dropped out altogether. Dick was surprised
at the discovery, but he took no means to make it known.
He kept the plant for about twenty long years beside
him. He was too solitary and too bashful to rush into
print with his botanical findings. It was only when a
young botanist, who had heard of Mr. Dick's scientific
knowledge, called upon him, saw the plant and ascer-
tained its habitat, that the information about the new
74 DICK'S REPORT.
plant was communicated to the Professor of Botany
at Edinburgh.
The professor at first doubted the existence of the
plant in Britain. He could scarcely believe that it existed
in Caithness, the northernmost county of Scotland. He
observed, however, that if Dick had really found the
plant, he had rescued the celebrated botanist Don from
an undeserved calumny. For Don had asserted that the
plant was found in Britain, whereas all the botanists of
note averred that the Holy Grass was not indigenous,
but had been imported from other countries.
Dick was specially requested to send a communica-
tion respecting the plant, and where it was to be found.
He accordingly did so in July 1854. He also sent a
specimen of the Holy Grass to Professor Balfour of
Edinburgh. We must here anticipate ; and insert the
paper which Dick prepared for the Botanical Society,
twenty years after the plant had been found. The paper
runs as follows : —
" About ten minutes' walk from the town of Thurso
there is, by the river-side, a farm-house known by the
name of the Bleachfield, opposite to which, on the eastern
bank of the river, there is a precipitous section of boulder
clay ; opposite to the clay cliff, and fringing the edge of
the stream. Any botanist can, in the last week of the
month of May, or in the first and second weeks of June,
gather 50 or 100 specimens of Hierochloe borealis.
Passing upwards along the river bank, and at no great
distance, there is another clay cliff, where a few hundreds
of Hierochloe may likewise be got. It also fringes the
THE MOONWORT. 75
edge of the river. But the plant must be looked for at
the time indicated ; for by the third week of June the
beauty of Hierochloe has passed away, and by the first
of July the herbage has become so rank that the Holy
Grass, now ripe, and turned of a silky brown, and is com-
pletely hidden from view. Farther up, between Giese
and a section of boulder clay a little below Todholes,
the plant may likewise be picked in hundreds. Hiero-
chloe has never failed to appear in these localities
during the last twenty years."*
The Eoyal Botanical Society afterwards sent Dick a
special vote of thanks for his paper, and also for the
specimen of the plant which he had sent for the Bota-
nical Gardens.
To return to his botanical wanderings. His sister,
who lived at Haddington, was very delicate, and he
often tried to amuse her with the descriptions of his
walks in the country.
In the beginning of July he writes to her as follows :
— " I have had two walks — one of five miles, the other of
ten miles. The five miles' walk was to see a fern called
the Moonwort. It grows in abundance in a spot not
far away. I shall never forget the strange wonder with
which I first saw it. So I again walked off to the locality,
where I knew it grew in all its glory. The season has
been very dry here, and the fern has not attained its
usual height. Nevertheless I found it. During my
journey I saw much to admire.
* Annals of Natural History, October 1854. Botanical Society of
Edinburgh.
76 THE STORKSBILL. CHAP, vn,
"My ten miles' walk I had yesterday evening. It
was fearfully warm. The sky was full of fire, but it did
not rain. There were great black mountains of clouds
in the air. It was a dead calm, with not a breath of
air. I was told that I must not go out, for it would be
a downpour before long. But ' he that will to Cupar
maun to Cupar.' My imagination told me of beautiful
geraniums (Storksbill), which I longed to see. Off I
went ! The clouds were in motion, but without wind.
It was terribly sultry. After a long perspiring walk I
arrived at my journey's end — a small precipice, lined
with plants.
" I was now at home — intensely at home. The pre-
cipice was not in length a stone's throw. It was only
about twenty feet in height. But there I found many
most interesting plants. There were a few of the
Trembling Poj)lar trees, about four feet high. There
were Eoses and Willow Herb in flower (Epilobium
angustifolium, E. montanum, and E. quadrangulum).
There was Ardbis hirsuta, a plant I never get in Caith-
ness but here : Stone Bramble, Common Sanicle, Carices,
and Butterworts in scores. And in the crevices of the crags
ferns — Male ferns and Lady ferns — Black Spleenworts,
Maiden-hair Spleenworts, and many other plants. Among
the rest I found plenty of Rough Brome Grass — a grass
I saw alive for the first time — alive by scores. So here
was my reward ! Well, I am increasing in knowledge,
if not in wisdom. I hope to get up at one o'clock to-
morrow morning."
A little later in the month he says — " This being one
WALKS FOR FERNS.
of my rambling days I did not leave Thurso until the
postman had gone round with his letters between one
and two o'clock. Of course I could not go far to-day.
But there is a fern growing about a mile and a half off,
which I should like to see once more. I once thought
the fern to be very rare, not having met with it in all
my rambles, except at the foot of the hill of Morven, in
the extreme south of the county. Then I found the
same fern about four or five miles from this, eastward of
the Fairies' Hill (Lysa) ; afterwards about a mile and
a half out of Thurso ; and then about three-quarters of
a mile eastward of the town. The search for plants is
amusing ; and when I come unexpectedly upon plants in
a spot which I had before minutely searched, I wonder
where my eyes had been all the time."
" On Saturday last," he says in another letter to his
sister, " I got up in the morning at three, worked until mid-
day, and then I set off on a journey of nine miles to gather
a specimen of a plant. Before I started I took off my
shoes and dipped my feet, stockings and all, into a basin
of water. I then tied my shoes on and set off. When I
had gone six miles I came to a burn ' roarin' fou,' through
which I walked ankle-deep. Fifteen minutes later I
walked through another burn, and then through another
and another burn — four burns in all.
" I pulled the plant and returned homewards. My
route lay across Dunnet sands. The tide was ebbing.
I kept close by the waves. As they rolled in, in long
breakers, they went far up the sands. For about three-
quarters of an hour I walked ankle-deep in salt water.
78 WALK TO DORERY. CHAP. vn.
After leaving the shore I had six miles to walk. I
reached home at eight in the evening with my plant,
having walked eighteen miles in four hours and forty
minutes."
On another afternoon in July he goes to the Dorery
hills. "I had a ramble," he said, "on Saturday last,
after my day's work was over. While on my way I found
in a quarry, at a loch, a fossil fish snout or two, and
some plants. I got to the hills, about ten miles off,
and examined ferns and roses. I had a grand view
of the Sutherland hills. I stood in a sheltered nook,
and gazed at the sunlight shining far over the distant
mountains. I never forget any of these moments. I
turned aside this morning just to gaze upon the moon.
It was about two o'clock in the morning. All was
still, solemn, and impressive."
The road to the Dorery hills lies through a bare
and slightly undulating country. The fields are sepa-
rated from the road by fences of Caithness flag. On
either side you observe here and there mounds of green
earth, underneath which are said to be the so-called
Picts' Houses. After the cultivated fields, come the moors
— quiet, solitary, and sublime.
After the moors you reach the heathery hills. The
highest of the hills is called Ben Dorery. There is a
cleft between the two principal hills, and at the farther
side of the main hill is a hollow, surrounded by projec-
tions of slaty rock, in which Dick would sit down, and
look with delight on the prospect before him. In the far-
reaching plain below there was nothing but heather
DORERY HILL. 79
moor, and moss, in the midst of which twelve lochs
might be seen glittering in the sunshine, with the
Sutherland hills far in the distance.
The scene is lonely and solitary. Not a house is to
be seen. Not a sound is to be heard, excepting the shot
of a sportsman during the grouse season. Below the
hill, is Loch Shurery, quietly sleeping in the sunshine.
THE DOS3RY HILLS.
Rising the hill and looking north, you see the flat county
of Caithness, with moors and lochs in the toreground,
and beyond them the flag-fenced fields in the distance.
The Dorery hills were attractive to Dick, not only
because of the solitary scenery, but because they were
lull of ferns of many sorts, togetliei with many of the
plants and grasses of which he was constantly in search.
80 DICK'S FERNERY. CHAP. vii.
Dick had another special fernery at Achavaristil,
under the Reay hills, about ten miles from Thurso. It
was nearly opposite Sir Robert Sinclair's shooting-lodge.
It was a sheltered place, where ferns grew in beauty.
Dick kept the place an entire secret. For a long time,
no one obtained access to it. No one knew of it. He
transplanted ferns from all parts of the county, that
they might grow and spread there long after he was dead.
But alas, some mischievous person found out the place,
and pulled up the " weeds." What a bitter day that was
for Robert Dick !
CHAPTEE VIH
DUNNET HEAD.
THE coast scenery, east and west of Thurso, is very grand.
On the one side it rises into Holborn Head, and on the
other into the long perpendicular rocks of Dunnet Head.
Holborn means Hell's child, from Holla the goddess of
hell, and biorn child. Many a ship has been dashed
against the rocks there. This has probably originated
the peculiar name of the headland.
When a ship in the North Atlantic is caught by a
storm, and the wind blows violently from the west, she
is driven towards the rockbound coast of the Hebrides.
If she can weather the Butt of Lewis, she is driven
towards the gigantic rocks of Cape Wrath, which extend
for about fifty miles towards Holborn Head. If she can
manage, by backing, to enter Scrabster Eoads, she is
safe. If not, she is driven upon the rocks, and utterly
destroyed — ship, men, and cargo.
The faces of the rocks are hollowed into gaping
caverns, where the waves thunder in, and roll along the
gyoes far inland. The leap of the waves is only exceeded
by their rebound seaward again. They rush up the
face of the rock like a pack of hounds, and spread them-
selves along the summit in blinding showers of spray
82 SCRABSTER ROADS. CHAP. vm.
As you stand upon the top of the rocks in fine weather,
they seem to precipitate themselves into the sea, — in
many cases overhanging the water.
Inside of Holborn Head is Scrabster Eoads. Many
ships ride at anchor there while the wind blows hard
from the west. They are well protected by the head-
land, which juts out towards the north-east. Scrabster
Harbour is also comparatively safe.
But when the wind blows from the north or north-
east, the ships riding at anchor there are in great danger.
The waves come in with great force. They come hissing
along with their fleece of froth, and break with violent
force upon the shore. They rebound again, dragging the
pebbles under them with a rattle, and — to quote the words
of Hardy — are like " a beast gnawing bones."
After one of these storms, Dick went down to the
sea-shore to ascertain whether any of the secrets of
Nature had been laid bare. " We have had a terrible
storm here," he says ; " such a force of wind that I have
never felt the like, so terribly strong and continuous.
It has caused great disaster to the shipping. The
storm fairly whipped six vessels out of Scrabster Eoads,
and dashed them ashore to ruin.
" When the wind abated, I went down to the shore,
and found a piece of old land strewed here and there
with prostrate hazel stems. I picked out of the clay five
nuts. How long it is since they grew I know not, but
it must have been ages ago. Perhaps geologists would
say that they grew when Britain stood thirty feet higher
than it does now. But that is all conjecture. Certainly
SHIPWRECKS. 83
the land along our shores had once a very different
appearance."
On another occasion he says — "The wind to-day
blows fearfully hard. A large ship, with seventeen men
on board, is ashore at Ham, thirteen miles off. About
mid-day we expected a ship ashore here. Unless the
wind abates, I should not be surprised if others came
ashore to-morrow. The wind is howling like mad, and
roaring like thunder over the town."
Dunnet Head, north-east of Thurso, was one of Dick's
favourite haunts. It was a long walk to the lighthouse,
which fronts the Pentland Firth. But he often wan-
dered to it, and descended the headland to the sea by
paths known only to himself. The perpendicular rocks
which surround the head, average about two hundred
feet high; but at the northern end, which forms the
northernmost point of Scotland, the rock rises three
hundred feet above sea level ; and from the summit of
the contiguous eminence, the height above the sea is
more than four hundred feet.
Dunnet Head forms a peninsula, extending from the
village of Dunnet on the south to the village of Brough
on the north. From these points it extends northward.
The peninsula contains about three thousand acres of
uncultivated moor, with no fewer than ten small lochs
or tarns on its summit. In winter time the lochs are
crowded with swans, geese, ducks, and northern seafowl.
Most of the birds summer in Greenland, and winter on
Dunnet Head.
This immense rampart of rocky headland runs along
84
D WARWICK HEAD.
the northern shore of Dunnet Bay, by Dwarwick Head,
in an easterly direction. Then turning sharp round to
the north by Eough Head, the rocks wend northwards,
then slightly eastwards, until you find yourself under
Easter Head, where the lighthouse is erected. This is
the highest point of the cliffs. They then extend to the
DWARWICK HEAD.
south-east, and afterwards towards the south, ending at
the village of Brough.
In fine or even rough weather, when the wind is east-
erly, a yachting trip under the cliffs is full of interest.
In Dunnet Bay the sea is quiet, being protected from
the east by the high grounds of the peninsula. Dwar-
wick Head forms a singular headland, the strata dipping
slightly towards the sea. Between this and Eough
CHAP. vni. DUNNET LIGHTHOUSE. 85
Head is a wick or bay, in which ships find safe shelter
— an old retreat of the Vikingers.
Eough Head is a bold headland. Numerous boulders
are strewn at the bottom of the cliff. There are points
near Dwarwick Head and Rough Head, where an
approach to the sands is possible, though, in some places,
it is rather precipitous. There are numerous gyoes along
the headland, worn out into inland caves by the powerful
washings of the sea. There is one near Dwarwick which
penetrates far inland. When the sea is rough, and drives
in from the west, the sea dashes up far inland, and blows
through the opening like a whale, throwing abroad sheets
of spray.
The precipices gradually rise. In certain places the
rocks seem to have slipped away towards the bottom, and
left steep slopes overgrown by ferns. There are numer-
ous wild birds among the cliffs. Cormorants are seen
winging their solitary way towards the north. Deep
caves appear in the face of the rock ; with here and there
a recent slip from the summit to the sea, where the
stones lie in a rough slope. The red sandstone of the
rocks looks so clear, so solid, and so near at hand, that
it might be thought they were only a gunshot distant,
though they are a mile and a quarter away.
And now we are under the lighthouse, where the
strata are nearly level. The precipice here is some three
hundred feet high. The lighthouse is on the crest of
the rocks, only about thirty feet from the precipice. It
is the highest lighthouse in Scotland. The height of
the lantern above the highest spring tides is 346 feet,
FORCE OF THE SEA.
and the light is seen twenty-three miles off, on either
side of Dunnet Head.
Even here there seem to have been recent slips, for
there are long slopes of rock at the bottom overgrown
with ferns and greenery. The sea is constantly washing
and grinding away the red sandstone and slates, so that,
in course of time, the lighthouse will have to be removed
farther inland.
Notwithstanding the height of the cliffs, the sea,
when driving strongly from the west, rushes right up
the face of the rocks, and dashes over the lighthouse,
sometimes breaking the glass with the stones which it
carries with it. Such is the prodigious force of the wind
and the sea united, that the very rock itself seems to
tremble, while the lighthouse shakes from top to bottom.
We are now in the Pentland Firth, and the waves are
rolling strong ^from the eastward. The wind and the
waters dash about the little ship, and she tacks and bears
round under the shelter of the headland. But not before
her decks have been well drenched by the billows. She
has now to make headway against the tide, which is
rushing into the Pentland Firth at the rate of some ten
miles an hour. At last, retracing her pathway under the
rocks, Eough Head is passed ; a calm comes on ; the ship
makes a tack across the bay ; and at length Dwarwick
Head is passed, and the buoyant little yacht makes her
way into Castletown harbour, from whence she set out.
We have thought it necessary to give this account of
Dunnet Head, because it was so often the scene of
Robert Dick's explorations. Sometimes also, Hugh
DUN'XET HEAD : FROM THK EAST.
CHAP. vin. TRIP TO DUNNET. 87
Miller accompanied him in his researches after the Old
Eed Sandstone, which is found on both sides of the head-
land. This will afterwards be found in the course of the
narrative.
In the course of one of his letters to his sister, Dick
thus describes one of his journeys to Dunnet Head. It
was made in April, while the weather was still very
wild:—
"Determined not to be beat, I waited over snow,
hail, frost, and rain, until I could set out. Then I had
my ramble. It was a fine morning, but after I had set
out it began to rain. It blew and rained for five miles.
I saw little beyond a bare country. The fields were red,
and the grass by the road-side was withered and brown.
All was of a sad, desolate appearance. I was walking
in an easterly direction, and the wind was blowing
south-west. To fend me from the rain, I turned my face
northerly, and saw only a tossing sea, and the Orkney
hills overspread with snow. I passed through the mile-
long village of Castletown, and there I saw trees, yes,
most respectable trees !*
" On the top of a stone wall to the right I saw some
tufts of moss. I went to the moss and looked. It was
all in fruit. I think it was Hypnum popuieum. I had
seen it before. I crossed burn after burn, and then the
* There are not only trees but woods about Mr. Trail's seat at
Castlehill. There is a hollow valley there, along the river Duran, which
has been beautifully planted. The place is well protected from the
north and east winds, and the trees grow to as fine dimensions as they
do in the south of England. But this is the only wood in the north
of Caithness.
DUNNE T CLIFFS.
long dreary sands of Dunnet lay before me — blank and
bare, or tossed into fantastic hillocks. The sand was
blowing before the wind. The waves were thundering
along the shore.
" I saw a man breaking sandstone boulders. He little
thought of what he was doing, or of the time when ice
went grinding along the surface of the stone he was
hammering. No : he was building a cottage, and the
stone was only a stone to him, and nothing more.
" Passing on, I left all human habitations behind, and
had only heather, heather, before me. The heather was
brown and burnt-like, so severe had been the weather
during the past winter. As I passed on, I found a
cocoon of the Emperor Moth sticking on a piece of
heather. I was next brought to a stop by some crimson-
tipped lichens — moss cups. They were taller than any
specimens I had seen before, but they were under shelter.
"After crossing another burn, and striding through
heather only ankle deep, I found myself on the edge of
the precipitous cliffs of Dunnet Head. Before I de-
scended down their front I looked around. Orkney
seemed quite near, with the snow-wreaths on its hills.
The waves of the Pentland Firth were rolling away
westerly.
" Down I went ! down ! It was at that place only
about 100 feet deep. When I reached the foot of the
cliff, I gazed upward in wonder and admiration, full of
intense curiosity to see the various layers of sand — for
such it once was. It is not every day that one stands
at the foot of such a cliff.
CHAP. vin. FERNS AT DUNNET. 89
"I moved westwards. I passed along delighted.
The scene was grand and unusually striking. I came
at length to a narrow fissure, up which I forced my way
in quest of Ferns. Yes, Ferns ! Ferns grow green on
Dunnet Cliffs all the year round. In fact, Dunnet Head
is a forest of ferns. It was the Sea Spleenwort that I
wanted, and sure enough I found it growing green in all
its glory. I gathered a few, and left the rest.
" Retracing my steps, I ascended the cliff. It then
began to rain, and it rained nearly all the way home."
Dick often descended the cliff, sometimes to gather
ferns, and at other times to inspect the geological
conditions of the rocks. One day he went down the
face of the headland a little to the west of the light-
house. He went searching about among the rocks and
clefts, finding many new things to wonder at. But he
completely forgot the lapse of time. Looking round, he
found that the tide had risen and completely overflowed
the path among the rocks by which he had come. On
one side was the precipice, on the other was the sea,
coming in higher and higher at every wave. He had no
alternative but to go onward, for the sands were still dry
in front of him. At length he discovered a portion of
the headland which he thought might be attempted, and
he succeeded, with much difficulty and danger, in reach-
ing the summit of the cliff.
In fine weather, when the billows are asleep and the
waters merely lave the base of the cliffs, pleasure parties
sometimes set sail from Thurso, and, when the tide is
low, they land on the sands under Dunnet Head. On one
90 DUNNET SANDS. CHAP. vm.
occasion, Dr. Smith and a party who had just landed
from their boat, found to their amazement that Dick was
there before them. He seemed to have got there by
miracle. But no ; he had merely come down the
rocks by a path known only to himself, for assuredly
nobody else would have risked his life in so perilous
a descent.
Dr. Smith asked him to return with his party in
the boat. No ! he would ascend the rocks by the path
down which he had come. Besides, he never accepted
any accommodation of this sort while on his journeys.
His skin was in a state of perspiration, which he desired
to maintain. If he took a seat in a boat or in a road
conveyance, with his wet feet, he was sure to get chilled,
and the result was a severe cold. Hence he strode back
to Thurso by the heather, the sands, and the road, as he
had come.
On one occasion Dick describes the geology of
Dunnet Head. It is during the month of June that
he undertakes his journey. He has already reached
Dunnet sands, which are about seven miles by road from
Thurso. The description is best given in Dick's own
words : —
"Dunnet sands are a long and a weary trail in a
warm day in June, when the dark thunder-clouds creep
overhsad, when not a breath of air stirs, and all is still
and motionless, save the dull, sluggish fall, at solemn
pauses, of the incoming and retreating waves on the
burning sands, or the humming of the overjoyed flies
feeding on the dead fish cast up by the tide ; when the
GEOLOGISING. 91
cattle from the benty links have come down towards the
sea, where they stand knee-deep in it, stooping and
eyeing it wistfully, but yet unable to drink ; when the
parched sands stretch away in the distance, the heated
air nickering upwards like the breath of a furnace !
" I look up, and implore the ' all-conquering sun to
intermit his wrath.' He only continues to shine out
stronger and fiercer ; till at last, faint and exhausted. I
throw myself down, and drink out of the burn which
flows across the sands, careless of the consequences.
Your very wise people may say what they please about
the consequences of imbibing cold water when over-
heated, but I have never found any harm, but much good
to be the result, and in no case more than in taking this
drink out of the burn as I crossed the sands towards
Dunnet.
" Refreshed and invigorated, I rose and pursued my
way. Not long after, I had the pleasure of striking iny
first hearty blow on the yellow stones which crop out
through the unconsolidated beach. I examine and
search for organic remains. But no. Again and again
my efforts are renewed, and still the answer is, No.
" Passing on along the foot of the cliffs — now yellow-
ish, then reddish — now thin and slaty-like, then in thick
solid beds — I go rambling along.
" ' Owre mony a weary ledge he limpit,
An' aye the tither stane he thumpit ; '
but thumped in vain. Oh for one scale ! But no ; no
organisms; not one, though you upturned the whole
stupendous accumulation of quartzy sand, which rears
92 DESCENDING THE CLIFFS. CHAP. vin.
its lofty and weathered front to the wasting waves and
" We have chosen the right time, when the tide is at
the lowest. Consequently we are enabled to move
along at the foot of the cliffs, which otherwise would be
impassable. We actively and untiringly explore, but
with no success; and are at last so wearied that we
clamber up to the top of the headland by a rugged sort
of footpath, and, moving along the edge of the precipice,
we make through the grass and heather for the crags
immediately facing the Western Ocean. How strange
to find, as we move along, a white butterfly or two
flitting about, a solitary mason wasp, and a sparrow-
hawk looking out for prey, the sun all the while beating
down upon us.
" It is possible to get down the western face of the
rugged cliffs of Dunnet Head. We got down, and what
do we find ? ibe sight is worth all the toil of walk-
ing to see it. Immense masses of sandstone, fallen from
the cliffs overhead, skirt the mighty wall. The masses
lie in rude confusion. Applying the hammer to them,
no remains of fish or quadruped are to be found, but
pieces of quartz, clay pebbles of a reddish brown, and in
some places balls of sulphur-yellow clay, as big as a
man's fist. Here and there are large patches of some-
thing like rusty sheet-iron, which would almost make
one fancy that they were the remains of some Antedilu-
vian Frying-pan that had been swept to sea and buried
there.
" There is very little real red sandstone at Punnet
CHAP. vin. THE SANDSTONE BEDS. 93
Head. By far the greatest bulk is what I take to be a
yellow quartzose sand. In one place, and in one place
only, is the sand in any way red. In crossing Dunnet
sands we had not failed to notice little stones, standing
out here and there in the sand, left by the retiring tide,
and great was my surprise to find the same appearances
here. In some places, where the boulders are a little
asunder, the exact beds of the strata are to be seen,
walked over, handled, and hammered. I had seen sand-
stone beds with here and there a pebble, but they nevei
struck my imagination so forcibly as now, when I was
down upon my knees and busied in the work of extrac-
tion.
" What a vast gathering of sand ! I was forced to
exclaim. Where did it all come from ? How long did
it take to pile up this heap in the silent depths of the
sea ? How long ? How many years ? These are perti-
nent questions, — questions which enter one's very soul.
Then man feels instinctively his own littleness, and his
utter inadequacy to solve even the simplest of his
questionings.
" But however amazed he may feel at this vast pile of
sand, it was at one time unquestionably much greater.
Looking across to the Orkneys, immediately opposite,
the spectator cannot fail to remark that they are of the
same material. Then, turning from the Orkneys to Hoi-
born Head, where a strong sea now rolls, one cannot help
looking back, and we are led to picture the time when
there was no sea between them, but only sandstone
beds, stretching continuously from shore to shore !
94 DUNNET HEAD SUBMERGED ! CHAP. vm.
" The beds have been burst through by the ocean, and
where dry land once was, the grampus now rolls, and
the tall ship speeds on her way to the farthest ends of
the earth. Amazing change !
" ' Art, empire, earth itself, to change is doomed ;
Earthquakes have raised to heaven the humble vale,
And gulphs the mountain's mighty mass entombed ;
And where the Atlantic rolled wide continents have
bloomed.'
" Who told Beattie this ? It seems to prove Lyell's
theory of the sameness of ancient and existing causes
for geological changes in the earth's surface. And the
change is still going on ; and ' come it will, the day
decreed by fate,' when not a vestige of the sandstone of
Dunnet Head will be found above the encroaching
ocean.
" What induces me to think so is this : — 1st, Dunnet
Bay does not, in my opinion, owe its existence to a fault,
but has been literally hammered out by the force of
the Atlantic waves. The sandy links are the broken
remains, in part, of the dispersed strata; and were
they now to become solidified, they would be found as
rich in fossil remains as the present beds are barren.
2d, The ocean tempests are telling surely on the western
face of the beds of Dunnet Head; and time alone is
wanted to effect their ruin. 3d, The beds on the south,
at Brough, are in some places in a mouldering, crumb-
ling state, and the sea will ultimately effect a junction
with the upper end of Dunnet Bay. Dunnet Head will
for some time be an island ; but it will ultimately be
CHAP. viii. HA VEN OF B ROUGH. 95
blotted out of existence altogether. There is a prophecy
for you !
" I remember once getting up, towards the end of
harvest, while the blue canopy above was still adorned
and enriched with innumerable stars. I was gaily crossing
Dunnet sands in the first peep of day, when I made
directly across the peninsula for the stupendous cliff
immediately westward of the little haven of Brough. I
found that the tide did not retire far from the coast, but
rose and fell close to the cliffs, wetting and allowing to
dry the big stones at the base of the precipice.
" The cliff, under which I rested for a time, was about
150 feet high. It seemed sound and hard. The morn-
ing sun rose in beauty. I hammered away, and kept
moving down upon the hamlet of Brough. There I found
the cliffs in sad decay ; in fact, they were a sloping mass
of rotten materials. A little out to sea there is a ledge
of what was once red sandstone. It is a mouldering
hint of what is to come. It is 50 feet in height, and
rests upon slate.
" I had made this long journey in the hope of find-
ing some very fine organisms where the slate cropped
out from beneath the sand. I found a few fish scales
and droppings, but no fossils ; and sounded a retreat,
very much chagrined at having to return home almost
empty-handed.
" There is a loch or two near Dunnet Head. There is
one on the top of the hill. It is a quiet secluded spot,
a place of great attraction for wild swans, geese, and
ducks, during their autumnal migration, when winging
96 THE HALIE LOCH. CHAP. vnr.
their way southward. There is another loch lower down,
famed for its miraculous cures. It is quite common for
mothers to carry their sickly children there on the first
Monday morning of a Wraith; and, going round the
puddle three times, they dip in the chick at the end of
each revolution. The children have sometimes returned
home cured. So they say.
" I remember a sort of cure. A poor woman took
thither a child who could neither sit, stand, walk, nor
talk. She performed the customary observances, and
returned amidst much derision. But lo! a marked
change took place in the child. He gained strength,
walked, and learned to speak. He often came to my
back premises, and called out : ' Bakie, bakie, gie's a
lopie;' but still he was very ancient-looking in the face.
About two or three years after he died of gravel. So that
the cure, whateyer it might be, was not permanent."
The piece of water referred to by Dick is Dunnet
Loch, or the Halie Loch, not far from the village of
Dunnet. It was once supposed to possess great healing
virtues. People came from all parts of Caithness and
the Orkneys, to be cured by the waters. The patient
had to walk round the loch, or, if not able to walk, he
was carried round it. He washed his hands and feet in
the loch, and then threw a piece of money into it. He
had to do this early in the morning, and must be out of
sight before sunrise. There was in ancient times a
Roman Catholic chapel dedicated to St. John at the east
end of the loch. Some say that the alleged healing
virtues of the waters were converted into a source of
THE " WITCH HAG:
97
pecuniary emolument by the priests. The loch is
merely a collection of water dropped from the clouds,
and possesses no healing or other qualities, except those
of rain water.
Among the superstitions of Caithness, the Swallow
is called " Witch hag." They say that if a swallow flies
under the arm of a person, it immediately becomes
paralysed. Is it because of the same superstition, that
in some parts of England the innocent Swift is called
" the Devilin " ?
DISTANT VIEW OF DUNNET HEAD: FROM BARROGILL CASTLE.
CHAPTER IX.
GEOLOGY— DISCOVERY OF A HOLOPTYCHIUS.
ROBERT DICK had now been engaged for many years in
studying the wonderful aspects of Nature in the North.
Caithness was not too wild or dreary for him. The
shells on the sea-shore, the grasses along the river-sides,
the mosses growing on the boulders, the ferns abounding
in Dunnet cliffs, were all full of interest. And now he
proceeded to probe the ground under his feet.
He had long had a taste for geology. While gather-
ing his botanical specimens he had often found fossil
fishes in the slaty rocks. He first observed them in
1835, a few years after he had settled at Thurso. At
first they excited his wonder ; then his surprise, — for dis-
tinguished geologists had asserted that no fossil remains
were to be found in the Scotch Highlands.* But here they
were under his own eyes ! Why should he not explore
* The Rev. W. D. Conybeare and William Phillips, Esq., in their
Outlines of the Geology of England and Wales (1822), said, "A cir-
cumstance cannot fail to have struck the observer during the course of
his researches, which opens to his view a far more extensive and
interesting field of his inquiry with regard to the relations of these
rocks to the general revolutions of nature ; for he will have found in
many of these beds spoils of the vegetable and animal kingdom im-
bedded, particularly the remains of marine zoophytes and shells, often
CHAP. ix. GEOLOGY OF CAITHNESS. 99
them ? Why should he not study them, and verify the
facts for himself?
Among the first books that he bought was Mantell's
Wonders of Geology. This revealed to him quite a new
world — the world of wonders at his feet. He after-
wards bought Dr. Buckland's Bridgewater Treatise. This
book also greatly excited his imagination. But there
was nothing in it about the fossils of Caithness. He
next borrowed a book from Sir George Sinclair, contain-
ing a journal of Mr. Bushby's travels through Caithness.
He made copious extracts from it, and endeavoured to
verify the facts therein stated.
Mr. Bushby's object seems to have been to discover
whether Caithness contained any metalliferous ores.
He also bored largely for shell marl, with the object of
mixing it with the mosses, and thus producing culti-
vable land. Bushby was not a geologist, and, in his
search for what was valuable, he overlooked the flags,
the fossils, the old red sandstone, and many of the most
interesting facts in the geology of Caithness.
It was not until the appearance of Hugh Miller's
publications that Dick's mind was set in the right
direction. In the month of September 1840, there
appeared in the Witness newspaper the first of a series
of articles under the title of " The Old Eed Sandstone."
in such abundance as to constitute nearly the entire mass of the parti-
cular strata. ... In some counties, he will perceive, none
of these remains occur— for instance, in Cornwall and the Scotch
Highlands ; in others (as in the south-eastern counties of England)
not a well can be sunk, or a pit opened, without presenting them in
abundance."
100 HUGH MILLER.
The articles were collected and published in the form of
a book in the following year. Dick purchased a copy,
and read it with great interest.
He immediately set to work to investigate the geology
of Caithness. He again wandered over it from one end
of the county to the other. But his best findings were
near Thurso. Along the coast there, he had already
found fish bones, fish heads, fish snouts, fish scales,
sufficient to freight a large ship. But he had never
yet found an entire specimen. At last he succeeded ;
and then began his correspondence with Hugh Miller.
He did not know Hugh Miller ; so that he addressed
him through an intermediate friend, Mr. Alexander
Sinclair. The letter is dated the 10th of March 1845.
Dick intimated that he was about to send off from
Thurso to Leith, by the " Union " steamer, a number of
fossil bones fpr Mr. Miller. He said, " If Mr. M. has
seen anything similar to the piece No. 1, with the tri-
angular knob, all my dreams of astonishing the geological
world by something new are in a measure at an end ;
for 'tis not alone the size of the pieces that I value, but
their singularity.
" An acquaintance here has suggested that the piece
I have attempted to delineate was the plate that covered
the lower half of the Coccosteus ; but in this I find it
hard to agree, for I have two lower halves of Coccosteus
tilted over on their backs, and they are not at all like
this strange piece. The lower half of these pieces has
no triangular knob at the upper end in the centre of the
plate. Nor will it do, in my opinion, to say that per*
CHAP. ix. A HOLOPTYCHIUS FOUND. 101
haps the knob and the rib-like processes were separated
from the centre plate, and washed away before it was
buried, for, to my certain knowledge, they were originally
solidly united in one piece, and the knob could not even
have been wrenched away without leaving a mark
" Besides, in these two pieces of Coccosteus cuspidatus
alluded to, there is a knot-like bone, with a long stalk
at the lower end, and nothing of the same kind in the
piece now sent. If this piece, strange as it is, was in
reality the lower half of a Coccosteus, Mr. Miller must
correct his description when he speaks of it as one plate
or piece, save the two small side pieces that ' fill up the
angle.' Mr. Miller knows what I mean.
" I am pretty confident that I have got something
new to geologists, and for this reason — rude as my
sketch of the fish jaws is — Mr. Miller must know them
to be the remains of a Holoptychius."
Five days later (15th March) Mr. Dick again writes
to Mr. Miller : — " Not a moment shall be lost in sending
you by steamer those curious Old Bones. At the same
time, I cannot send you one of them — the largest piece
— as it was found ; but I will send you a cast of it — a
stucco likeness of what the huge buckler was when it
lay in the bed of the rock, after I had brought it to
light after its long entombment."
The fossil fish found by Dick was indeed a discovery.
The frontal plates of the Holoptychius measured full
sixteen inches across, and from the nape of the neck to
a little above the place of the eyes, full eighteen ; while
a single plate belonging to the lower part of the head
102 BEGINNINGS OF GEOLOGY. CHAP. ix.
measured thirteen and a half inches by seven and a half.
Dick was rejoiced to find that Hugh Miller valued the
discovery so much, and that he complimented him on
the results of his laborious investigations.
In the same letter in which he communicated the
finding of the fossil Holoptychius, Dick described to
Hugh Miller the beginning of his geological studies.
He had been long wandering about Caithness, making
general inquiries, gathering fossils, finding old sea-
beaches, and watching the grindings made by icebergs
on the rocks j but now he had begun to excavate the
rocks, and endeavoured to dissect them so far as he
could.
" I never," he said, " wielded the hammer and chisel
until last spring — March 1844; and the laying bare of
the large fossil (of which I send you the cast, and the
remaining fossjls) was one of my first exploits. It was
about the vernal equinox. The wind blew off the land.
A merry sea tripped through the Pentland Firth. The
tide was about full. The waves came dashing in on the
rocky shore, in long rolling billows, scattering in spin-
drift.
"I had laid the large plate bare, and was resting
in mute astonishment at the size of the fossil— for I
measured it with the handle of the hammer, and found
it fully eighteen inches in length — when I was roused
from my reverie by the waves dashing against my feet.
The tide was now coming in ! What was I to do ? To
raise it, stone and all, was impossible, and I feared that
it might be damaged or taken away if I left it until
CHAP. ix. RAISES THE FOSSIL. 103
next evening. There was no time to deliberate. The
tide was nearly up to the stone.
"I then attempted to lift it whole out of its bed,
little thinking, in my ignorance, of the extremely brittle
nature of petrified bones. Alas ! the bone broke across !
I gave a gasp, and cried ' Oh !' But I set to work and
lifted the rest out, and put the whole in my handker-
chief. When I reached home they were a mass of
broken debris. I managed, however, to put the bits
together again, and of these I send you the plaster
cast.
" What was it ? was it really a Coccosteus, six feet
long including the tail ? What do you think I imagined
it to be ? Nothing more nor less than a gigantic King
Crab ! wanting the tail ; eighteen inches one way and
sixteen inches the other. I wandered through Buck-
land in vain, and then believed that it was the upper
piece of a Trilobite. But the ' Old Eed ' dissipated all
these fancies.
" I have a piece or two of fossil bone that would
puzzle Agassiz himself. They shall all be sent you.
Whether you engrave any of them or not, you are on no
account to return them. They would never see the light
with me.
" I have taken note of what you say, and will endea-
vour to comply with your kind suggestions that I should
make further searches. ... I have been along the shore
once or twice already, and know of a job or two — one of
them rather promising — a bone, as long as my finger, is
standing out of an impure bituminous limestone, but
104 MILLERS ACKNOWLEDGMENT. CHAP. ix.
what the bone may be can only be known when it is
dug out."
Hugh Miller afterwards refers to the circumstances
under which Dick sent him the Holoptychius. He
says, " I do not know what the savans of Eussia have
been doing for the last few years ; but mainly through
the labours of an intelligent tradesman of Thurso, Mr.
Kobert Dick — one of those working men .of Scotland, of
active curiosity and well-developed intellect, that give
character and standing to the rest — I am enabled to
justify the classification and confirm the conjectures of
Agassiz. Mr. Dick, after acquainting himself in the
leisure hours of a laborious profession with the shells,
insects, and plants of the northern locality in which he
resides, had set himself to study its geology ; and with
this view he procured a copy of the little treatise on the
Old Red Sandstone, which was at that time, as Agassiz's
monograph of the Old Eed fishes had not yet appeared,
the only work specially devoted to the palaeontology of
the system so largely developed in the neighbourhood of
Thurso. With perhaps a single exception — for the
Thurso rocks do not yet seem to have yielded a Pterich-
thys — he succeeded in finding specimens, in a state of
better or worse keeping, of all the various ichthyolites
which I have described as peculiar to the Lower Old
Eed Sandstone. He found, however, what I had not
described, the remains of apparently a very gigantic
ichthyolite; and, communicating with me through the
medium of a common friend, he submitted to me, in the
first instance, drawings of his new set of fossils ; and
CHAP. ix. WORKING MEN AND GEOLOGY. 105
ultimately, as I could arrive at no satisfactory conclu-
sion from the drawings, he with great liberality made
over to me the fossils themselves."
With reference to the manual labour by which Dick
earned his bread, Hugh Miller says — " There is no work-
ing man, if he be a person of intelligence and informa-
tion, however unlearned, in the vulgar acceptation of the
phrase, who may not derive as much pleasure and
enlargement of ideas from the study of geology, and
acquaint himself as minutely with its truths, as if he
were possessed of all the learning of Bentley." *
In a subsequent letter, written during the same month,
Dick says — "We have gentlemen-geologists here; but
not one of them — though they have been many years in
the pursuit — have a single piece similar to those I send
you. They have repeatedly gone down to Thurso East,
and returned empty. And why ? For this simple reason,
that they were afraid to fylef their trousers !"
Certainly, Dick discovered and elucidated many things
which lie hidden from the eyes of common men. His
indefatigable industry in the cause of science enabled
him to accomplish much more than thousands of men
furnished with the best available education, and with
ample means and time at their command, had been able
to achieve. His was only another case of " the pursuit
of knowledge under difficulties."
In a future letter to Hugh Miller he said—" I got
your enclosed extract. I will proceed to make you a
* Footprints of the Creator, pp. 25, 26 ; Ed. 1876. t Dirty.
106 THE SCALDING THEORY. CHAP. ix.
map of Caithness. As to the dip of the strata, the
geologists are right; but as to the localities of the
fossils, they are greenhorns. I have traced all the
shores, from Ratter on the east to Drumholiater on the
west. Some beds are perfect Museums of fish heads and
bones. I will send you some coprolites of a size that
will make you doubt if they really have been voided by
fish. Sometimes I think larger animals must have in-
habited the sea of the Old Eed Sandstone."
On the 8th of April he writes — " In your outlines of
Mr. Eose's lecture, in your last paper [the Witness], I
find a more rational view of the probable use of the
thick coverings of the animals of the Old Eed. Dr.
Buckland's scalding theory always appeared to me to be
ludicrous, and not in keeping with facts. Thus, in the
same strata in which I found the very large plate, there
were scattered ^promiscuously scales of the Osteolepis.
You know how thick they are, and you now also know
that some kind of animal was covered with mail in
snme places nearly <m inch thick.
" Now, there is no proportion between the protecting
fi igments of the two creatures ; and if Buckland was
right in his views, it must have been as perilous for poor
Osteolepis to swim side by side with Coccosteus as it
would be for a modern dandy to attempt braving the
rigours of a polar winter in night-gown and slippers.
The heat must have been as speedily fatal in the one
instance as the cold would be in the other.
"S jvg beneath his impenetrable bone, methinks I hear
sa'j'y '"/occo laughing at poor Osteolep, and ironically
CHAP. ix. EYES OF THE COCCOSTEUS. 107
saying, ' Poor fellow, how I pity you ! Why don't you
put on more clothes ? You will never be right till you
get a thicker jacket to keep out the heat.' 'Well,
Cocco,' replies his comrade, ' I am very warm already.
This coat of mine is horrid hot, and I do not see how it
would mend the matter to put on another!' This
would be the proper answer to scalding seas, oceans of
hot water, and fish with thick coats to keep out the
heat ! "
From this time forward Eobert Dick sent all the new
fossils that he found to Hugh Miller for the purpose of
illustrating his books on geology, especially that describ-
ing The Old Red Sandstone. He sent numerous speci-
mens of the Coccosteus, the Diplopterus, the Asterolepis,
the Dipterus, the Osteolepis, the Glyptolepis, and many
other remains of ancient fishes, now found only in a
fossil state. In 1845, he sent Hugh Miller the first
specimen of the Coccosteus minor, which he had found
near Thurso. " It was from one of Mr. Dick's specimens
of this species," says Mr. Miller, " that I first determined
the true position of the eyes of the Coccosteus — a position
which some of my lately found ichthyolites conclusively
demonstrate, — and which Agassiz, in his restoration,
deceived by ill-preserved specimens, has fixed at a point
considerably more lateral and posterior, and where eyes
would have been of greatly less use to the animal."
In his future editions of The Old Red Sandstone
Hugh Miller found it necessary to make many altera-
tions in the text, consequent upon the observations and
discoveries of Robert Dick. In his preface to the third
108 HUGH MILLER'S MODIFICA TIONS. CHAP. ix.
edition, published in 1846, Mr. Miller says that he had
found it necessary to make a good many additions tc
the volume, and several alterations in the text, where
the statements appeared to require modification.
" I need here," he says, " refer to but one of those modi-
fications ; and this chiefly that I may have an opportu-
nity of acknowledging my obligations to the meritorious
individual through whose kindness I have been furnished
with the data on which it has been made. It was stated
in the two former editions that there is a gradual increase
of size observable in the progress of ichthyolitic life,
from the minute fish of the Silurian System up to the
enormous Holoptychius of the Coal Measures, the largest
of all the ganoids ; and that the Old Eed System, whose
lower beds border on the deposits of the Silurian fish,
and upper beds on those of the gigantic ganoid, ex-
hibited in its various formations this gradation of bulk,
beginning with an age of dwarfs, and ending with an
age of giants.
" Since the appearance of the second edition, however,
it has been ascertained that there were giants among
the dwarfs. The remains of one of the largest fish
found anywhere in the system have been discovered in
its lowest formation near Thurso by Mr. Eobert Dick,
who, by devoting his leisure hours to the study of
geology, in a singularly rich locality, has been enabled
to add not a few interesting facts to those previously
accumulated truths of the science on which its sounder
theories can alone be erected, and who has kindly placed
at my disposal his collection of fossils. And the positive
CHAP. ix. THE GIGANTIC HOLOPTYCHIUS. 109
/proof which they furnish has convinced me that the
I theory
of a gradual progression in size, from the earlier
to the later Palaeozoic formations, though based originally
on no inconsiderable amount of negative evidence, must
be permitted to drop."
He afterwards refers to the comparatively recent
discovery of a gigantic Holoptychius in the Lower Old
Red Sandstone of Thurso by Mr. Robert Dick of that
place. " It bears shrewdly," he says, " against the line
of statement in the text of the book, and it serves to
show how large an amount of negative evidence may be
dissipated by a single positive fact, and to inculcate on
the geologist the necessity of cautious induction."*
* Hugh Miller's Old Red Sandstone, p. 176. Ed. 1875.
6*
CHAPTER X.
GEOLOGY OF THE COAST NEAR THURSO.
A CORRESPONDENCE began between Eobert Dick and
Hugh Miller, which went on apace. Nothing would
satisfy Dick but an early visit from his friend to see the
fossils actually lying in their beds. "I have some
famous things for you to see," said Dick. " There is a
head of Holoptychius, which I have left for you to pick
out for yourself. There is a cranial buckler of an
Asterolepis, which I want you to see in its proper site.
Come, come without delay : there is no end of wonders
here — no end of (lead fish. Even the town of Thurso is
COAST NEAR THURSO.
CHAP. x. THE EAST SHORE. Ill
built of dead fish !" In the meantime, to strengthen hia
invitation, Dick proceeded to sketch in words the
scenery of the sea- shore at Thurso — east and west of
the town. He gave a map in outline of the coast, in-
dicating the convolutions of the headlands and the dip
of the rocks.
" Come," said Dick, on the 8th of April 1845, " come,
I will lead the way. We shall go round the east shore
in the direction of Murkle Bay, and I will direct your
attention to a few of the varied peculiarities of our
rocky path. Though the tide is at low ebb, we must go
round by the bridge, for the wintry spates have driven
away the stepping stones across the river. . . . We
go on, and are now snuffing the sweet sea-breeze, and
through the openings of the land we see the fair blue
sea, — rippling bright in the morning sun, and stretching
far away into worlds of wonders. Behind us lies
Scrabster roadstead. You see the Bishop's Palace, and
above it the little burying-ground on the brink of
the cliff, sea-worn and ragged, where the echoes of
the murmuring waves sing a never-ending requiem to
the departed. And there is the old kirk; and there,
almost beneath our feet, is the bed of the river. See,
there is a nearly horizontal bed of clayey flagstone,
highly calcareous and charged with organic remains —
scales, bones, spines, snouts of fish, and plants.
"We pass onward. On the beach between us and
Thurso East Castle lies a moderate heap of rolled stones
of various sizes, and could they be bound together they
form a fine specimen of modern conglomerate,
112 THURSO EAST.
" We are now between the castle and the sea, and
look ! yonder lie the upper beds, which dip away north
and a little west. The underlying beds are beneath our
feet, for the tempests of many years have washed away
the upper surfaces at high- water mark ; but the under-
lying strata do not dip in the same direction as the
overlying, but nearly west, in fact a little south-west.
How is this ? Were the edges of the underlying beds
turned up before the upper were thrown down ?
" We go on for about a gunshot, and come upon a
noted fault. We tread on the edges of the strata, which
dip apparently due east or north-east. Forty-eight
paces farther on we meet another fault. The strata here
appear to dip west. We tread again on the edges of the
strata. How is this ? These are the underlying beds.
The cliff is from eight to nine feet high, and look! yonder
lie the upper b$ds, which stretch unbroken out to sea.
The lower beds are highly charged with organic remains,
and so are the upper. The latter is bituminous and cal-
careous, and here I find stout bones, droppings, scales of
Holoptychius, and plates with warts on them.
" We come to a bit burnie — a little brawling noisy
thing in the month of April. We step across, and are now
on firm rock, highly calcareous, — a rude, ill-cemented,
cross-grained piece of stuff, which, in some places, re-
minds me of the riddlings of lime. As we pass on, the
fossiliferous beds are on our right hand and on our left.
They are not all ' calcareous flag beds,' as described by
Murchison. Indeed, none of them resemble the ordinary
which are sawn into pavement. They are more
CHAP. x. " THE MAN IS MAD." 113
bituminous. And see ! here is a bed of highly siliceous
stuff, and there is one of green clay, slightly sandy. On
taking a decomposed piece in the hand, and rubbing it
between the fingers, it feels greasy.
" We are now among the low reefs, and look ! there
are multitudes of black, brilliant, quadrangular scales, and
numerous remains of fish, — snouts innumerable, scales
of Holoptychius, pieces of fish jaws, teeth, spines, bones,
warty plates, and even plants. A little round the point,
almost in the line of a fault, under a rock, I found that
enormously big plate [of the Holoptychius], thirteen and
a half inches across.
" While occupied in belabouring the rock to dig it
out, I was so meditative and so wondrously affected,
that some ' town bodies,' not understanding my object,
looked down upon me, and speaking to each other said,
'That man is mad!' But I was not so mad as they
thought me to be.
"The dip is nearly north, and the fossils are most
abundant in the beds of rock close in with the land. I
march on over the remains of departed days, and medi-
tate among the tombs of deceased millions of living
creatures, — tombs such as Hervey never dreamt of. As
I proceed, I pass successively cliffs innumerable, faults
innumerable, fossiliferous beds innumerable; for they
occur in detached patches, and are to be seen on the
very brink of the precipice. The sea is now dashing its
billowy spray unceasingly, and along the outer edge of
the breakers the crested cormorant and spotted divei
ply their ceaseless vocation.
114 FOSSILIFEROUS BEDS. CHAP. x.
" The cliffs are now about forty feet high. The bitu-
minous bed underneath is charged with the remains of
fish. I used to wonder how the bed here, after running
fifty paces or so, suddenly became much harder and
highly siliceous. The sea has worn it into ruts — deep
ruts — and the remains of fish can be seen peeping out of
the sides. There are numerous fossil plants here.
" On we go, and soon tread upon a highly siliceous
bed, very rugged, and worn into many strange shapes
and gnarled knots. A little after, we pass a fossiliferous
bed, charged, as usual, with fragments of fish. In a
short while, we meet something like an abrupt wall of
rock stretching across the path, over which we must
climb. Once up, we find that the sea, which has told
on every bed we have hitherto passed, has made no
impression here. A highly siliceous bed stretches from
the land in a long slope, sheer down into the waves,
nearly as entire' as it was thousands of years ago, when
the real red sandstone beds — once continuous across the
Firth from Orkney to Caithness — lay upon it; and though
the billows break at every tide with tremendous force,
the siliceous bed seems to lie as firm and unworn as
ever. The wildest north-west winds that ever blew, and
all the rushing force of the dashing waves, have availed
but little in shaking the foundations or even abrading
the surface of this hard siliceous rock.
"No bed similar to this — neither on the east to
Castlehill, nor on the west to Reay — is to be seen at this
part of the coast. The beds have everywhere been broken
down, more or less.
A FINE SEA VIEW
" It is with a feeling of enjoyment that the ardent
admirer of Nature contemplates the surrounding pro-
spect. The view is grand ! On the right is Dunnet
Bay, with a schooner or two in the offing, beating up
the Tentland Firth. Then there are the red cliffs of
Dunnet Head. In long perspective, adown the Pentland
Firth, we see the white waves chafing the island of
Waas; and right over, in solitary state, the swelling
Orkney hills and the Man of Hoy close the distance.
Westward we look over the wide main, no land be-
tween us and the coast of Labrador. To the left, along
the land, we see Holborn Head and the bay of Thurso,
— a complete panorama.
" We go on, and pass fossiliferous beds, when we are
stopped by a deep gully worn by the waves, over which
116 PUDDING GYOE.
it is impossible to leap. We therefore climb the cliff,
and pass along the grassy bank on the top. The rocky
beds there assume varied appearances ; faults in abun-
dance ; here an opening to the sea, there an irregular
wall ; until we reach Pudding Gyoe, where the cliffs are
steeper, and the sea comes closer in.
" Pudding Gyoe is a hollow cave, worn into the solid
rock by the ceaseless grinding of the sea. The entrance
can only be seen when the tide is at low ebb. The water
from above percolates through the strata, highly charged
with lime, so that, in creeping through the rocks under-
neath, it has formed a stalactitic covering, not unlike the
entrails of a cow, or cow's puddings, and hence the name
of Pudding Gyoe.
" There is an old tradition of a piper who ventured
'too far ben,' and ultimately lost himself; and many
people, good people, heard him long long after, playing
his pipes in a low hollow sound, some four miles up the
country.
" The beds have hitherto been dipping northerly ; but
at a small distance farther on, a range of rocks dips east;
then there is a most notorious fault. The strata drop
down almost on end, dipping east. You then enter
Sandy Bay.
" On the farther side you come to more fossiliferous
rocks. The remains are invariably the same — quad-
rangular scales, scales of Holoptychius, snouts of Diplo-
pterus, teeth, warty bones, and some other large bones."
Dick resumes the subject of the above ramble along
the north-eastern coast on the 29th of April 1845.
MURKLE BA Y. 117
" On leaving Sandy Bay and moving eastward in the
direction of Murkle Bay, the strata continue to dip
northerly. We shortly come upon a fault, when a total
change in the direction of the dip takes place. It is
now nearly due west We tread upon their upturned
edges, and are soon involved in the mazes of a wilder-
ness of broken rocks. Stones of every shape, size, and
description are lying around, as if a multitude of men
had been at work with sledge hammers, and left the
place a scene of the rudest confusion.
" The truth is, the sea rolling in winter and summer
across the strata, in placid or in sullen majesty, or in
whirling or dashing storms, has broken but not removed
this mass of stony wreck. It is, nevertheless, a noted
phenomenon of the scenery.
" Murkle Bay owes its existence to a noted fault, and,
in my opinion, every little inlet or bay along the coast
is due to the same cause. In moving round the sandy
shore, the explorer has time to muse on the sandstone
cliffs of Dunnet, now distinctly visible across the waters ;
and the dip of the yellow cliffs can be seen to have the
same general strike as the calcareous, and the other beds
of clay he has just left.
" At the eastern inner angle of Murkle Bay the strata
are in great confusion — bent, twisted, contorted, and
dipping in various directions. Moving on a little
farther, they assume the usual appearance of dipping
away in the direction of Dunnet Head ; and here, for the
last time in this direction, the explorer detects a bed of
bituminous calcareous slates, full of organic remains.
118 HAMMERING TILL MOONLIGHT. CHAP. x.
They crop out between two dissimilar beds, and many
warty and other bones are to be found here." ....
Dick then proceeds onwards to Dunnet sands and
Dunnet cliffs, which have already been described.
During the same evening on which he begins the above
description, he proceeds to geologise on the west shore
of Thurso. He says : — " Shouldering an old poker, a four-
pound hammer, and with two chisels in my pockets, I
set out for the burn of Scrabster. After a great deal of
hammering, I found no end of young Coccosteus. I might
have filled a barrel with them, but they were all broken.
What hammering! what sweating! Coat off: got my
hands cut to bleeding. Found a very hard bituminous
bed. It rings like a piece of metal. What pokering !
Got three or four fish, not much worth. Don't think
them new. Found a plant. Found scales of Holopty-
chius. Wrought on till the moon shone clear in the
water of the burn. Returned home at twenty minutes
past ten."
The correspondence between Robert Dick and Hugh
Miller proceeds. Dick tells his correspondent of all his
findings of fossils. Everything he collects is immediately
sent to the Witness office at Edinburgh. Dick had many
wanderings for the purpose of finding the richest fossil
districts near Thurso before Hugh Miller's visit. Hav-
ing described the sea-shore to the east of Thurso; he
next proceeded to describe the sea-shore to the west of
Thurso. He begins his letter of the 4th of May 1845
by quoting the stanza from Byron's Childe Harold,
beginning —
CHAP. x. VIEW FROM THURSO BAY. 119
" ' He that has sailed upon the deep blue sea
Has viewed at times, I ween, a full fair sight.'
" Such," he goes on to say, " is Byron's beautiful descrip-
tion of a scene at sea ; and such has often been my own
feeling, when, at evening's hour, my steps have measured
the beach that lies spread out so temptingly fair between
this little town and its beautiful bay. For, 'tis not
unusual, in the month of May, to observe, out in the
Firth, some eight or ten large vessels with ' every white
sail set,' ' curling the waves before each dashing prow.' "
But Dick had not gone down to look at the beauti-
ful bay and the passing ships, or at Dunnet Head and
Hoy Head, with the setting sun glinting along their
sides, throwing out their rocky projections, and leaving
their hollows and gyoes in the shade. No ! He had
gone down to the coast " geologically bent." He wan-
dered westward on the sand and then on the rocks,
hammer in hand, ready to strike a blow, or any number
of blows, for the honour of science.
" Passing on," he says, " I walk over a bed of loose
sand smoothed and levelled by the tide, and after a time
I reach the solid rocks, of a bluish-grey cast, and dip-
ping northerly, with a little of west. The first beds I
meet are not decidedly fossiliferous, though a few scales
and droppings may be found. A little farther on I see
some warty bones, and still farther, there is a bed
decidedly charged with organic remains. Pieces of fish
jaws, bones, and tail-half plates of Coccosteus, are seen
in considerable numbers.
" Moving on, I reach an opener space, strewed with
120 AN OLD BURYING-GROUND. CHAP, x,
fragments of a dark blue flag, charged, more or less.
with organisms. Some very fine fossil fish have been
found there. I next come in sight of the human bury-
ing-ground on the top of the bank, as distinguished from
the fish burying-ground on the rocks underneath.
" The family to which the burying-ground belonged,
though once numbering among the Caithness aristocracy,
have experienced a sad reverse. The last of the race is
now toiling for his bread in a foreign land. Yet, one
cannot help heaving a sigh in passing, to think that
through his follies and imprudence, the dust of his
fathers should be exposed to the contempt of passers-by.
The door of their sepulchre is battered to pieces, and the
ground is overspread with dank nettles and hemlocks,
and other abominations.
" It must surely have been a refined, a poetic feeling,
which prompted the founder of the burying-ground to
pitch it in such* *a spot, — close by the murmuring sea —
the image of eternity. He thought to have slept in
undisturbed security. Yet the sea is already under-
mining the graveyard, and it is not improbable that the
rock on which the family vault stands may itself be
washed away, and the dust of the dead be driven hither
and thither by the wasting and unfeeling waves.
" A little past the burying-ground, and on the beach.
I find a change in the dip of the strata. The beds dip
east, though almost immediately thereafter they return
to their former dip — namely northerly, with a little of
west ; and continue so until we arrive at the Bishop's
Palace, where yellowish, whitish, and striped beds of
CHAP. x. THE BISHOPS PALACE. 121
sandstone prevail. The beds on which the ruined palace
stands are reddish and yellowish looking, and dip in the
same direction.
" The ruins of the palace occupy an interesting spot.
RCINS OF BISHOP'S PALACE AND 8CRABSTER ROADS.
It must have been selected by one possessed of a true
relish for the beauties of nature. On the south-east side
you observe a wide circular hollow of land, swelling
gently up to the heath-clad hill of Forss. The headland,
running round towards the north, breaks the force of
the western storms. On the east there is a series of
122 THE RUINED PALACE. CHAP. x.
swelling uplands. Looking seaward the prospect is
grand. Towards the north, the Orkneys are seen in
the distance, with the Man of Hoy standing out to sea.
Nearer, Dunnet cliffs are observed boldly fronting the
Pentland Firth; and the eye aches in its inability to
penetrate the mystery beyond.
" I can well imagine the warm, sunny, summer even-
ings of bygone days, when the bishop would sit watch-
ing the rippling waters, or gazing at the last beams of
the setting sun, going down behind the world of waters
in a blaze of crimson and gold !
" Sixteen years ago, I remember making an attempt
to explore the inner recesses of the ruined palace. I
entered the cave underneath with a lighted candle ; but
I found it utterly impracticable to make my way without
pick and spade. There is a low door, which seems
to lead to subterraneous chambers ; but the passage is
choked with rubtish.
" The little burn of Scrabster runs round the rock,
entering the sea at its north-west side. The water would
be useful to the castle inmates. I have sometimes seen
sailors ashore filling their barrels there.
" Close beside the burn, a ridge of clay occurs, and
sweeping round Scrabster Bay it rises in some places to
about a hundred feet. It is blue and full of stones of
various sizes. I have often been astonished at its appear-
ance, and wondered where it could have come from.
Some call it boulder clay, and say that it is similar to
what skirts the base of some of the Alpine mountains.
It may be a Moraine. It seems to fill an irregular
CHAP. x. THE DEWS BRIG. 123
hollow. The bare rocks are through the soil on the hill-
top, immediately behind. Can it really be that those
hill-tops, now so insignificant, once towered above the
clouds, capped in snow, bound up in ice, and that they
have gradually mouldered away down to their present
elevation of a few hundred feet above the level of the
sea.
"Low down, at the Coastguard house, beneath a
weight of clay, the strata crop out, and are at first
slightly charged with organisms. A little farther on I
find beds charged with warty bones ; and the strata dip
northerly. Then there is a fault, the strata are in
confusion, and dip westerly. They then become nearly
horizontal, and continue so until the extreme end of
Holborn Head ; where I find them slaty, and highly
calcareous, bituminous, and containing many remains of
fish.
" There is a noted fault to be seen almost atop of the
point of the promontory. The strata slope in different
directions. They are bent, twisted, contorted, and in
great confusion. At one place, they are quite on end.
What a subterraneous convulsion there must have been
here at one time !
" We pass along, and walk over the Deil's Brig. The
sea washes underneath. It is one of the great goes, or
gyoes, which abound along the coast. In stormy
weather, the sea drives into it with overpowering force,
and sends clouds of spray far inland. The Brig clearly
shows the hard clay-flag of which the headland is
composed.
124 THE CLETT.
" Then we come to that very singular rock, THE
CLETT. Who, in reading about Caithness, has not
heard of Thurso Clett? In fact, it is our great lion. The
Clett is an oblong rock of calcareous slate of about 100
feet high. It has been separated by the action of the
sea from the adjoining mainland. It is the resort, in
summer, of innumerable sea-birds, who breed on the
ledges of the cliffs. When sitting on end, in rows, they
have not inaptly been compared to rows of bottles in an
apothecary's shop.
" Passing on, the cliffs begin to rise until we reach a
monument of white sandstone, erected to the memory of
Captain M. A. Slater, who, it is said, either fell down or
threw himself down the precipice, and was never after-
wards heard of.*
" A very little past the monument we meet a kind of
a ditch, with a,, very little water trickling over the slates
at its bottom. In these slates are fish ; fish without end,
but very rotten. Going on a little farther, we come to
a, spot of rocks washed bare by the wintry storms and
ihe dashing sea-spray. There we find a patch of calca-
reous slates full of fish ! The flags are for the most part
much decayed ; and the fish themselves have long been
dead and decayed, and their scales and head bones had
lain scattered about, ere the limy mud and dust wrapped
them up.
* It is said that the monument is a sham. The horse on which
Captain Slater was mounted, galloped back into Thurso without its
rider ; but it is said that Captain Slater was afterwards seen in Aus-
tralia. Jealousy was at the bottom of the affair.
THE DEIL'S BRIG : HOLBORN HEAD.
CHAP. x. HOLBORN HEAD. 125
" This fish bed reminds me very much of the fish bed
at Weydale, a few miles south of Thurso. The fish are
of the same species. I remember very well hiring a
flagman, and toiling with him half a day, and all that
we gathered was two fossil fish out of some hundreds of
broken worthless stuff.
" Beyond the ditch the cliffs rise again, and continue
of the same height — about 190 feet; and then they
swell up suddenly about ten feet more, into a sort of
round hill. From thence the cliffs gradually fall, and
slope away down to Brims. Before arriving there we
find a bed of calcareous slates, of noted appearance, full
of the remains of fish, snouts of Diplopterus, jaws,
scales, and warty bones. Westward of the house of
Brims, there is the same appearance of fish remains
amongst bituminous rocks.
" The strata west of Brims are well worthy the
inspection of the geologist, on account of the very extra-
ordinary position many of them assume. Their appear-
ance is singular in the extreme."
Holborn Head, and the rocks beyond, continued to be
a favourite haunt of our geologist. He not only haunted
the top of the cliffs, but by a difficult and dangerous
path descended to the rocks underneath them. He
resolved that nothing should remain concealed where
the pick and chisel could reach them. "Determined,"
he says, in a letter addressed to Hugh Miller, dated the
6th of May, only two days after the above inspection,
" to put down nothing but what I had seen with my
own eyes, I started this evening at seven o'clock ; and
126 REGIONS OF THE DEAD. CHAP. x.
walking double-quick time, I reached the extreme point
of Holborn Head at a little after eight. By this time
the sun had set, and I felt it cruel cold. But I had
scarcely set my foot upon the bare slates ere I picked up
a. very stout piece of fish bone, about seven inches in
length. I also found a warty bone, a piece of fossil
wood, a scale of Holoptychius ; and I left two pieces
sticking in the flags until to-morrow, when, if I can, I
will hammer them out. These will be sent to you, not
so much for their value, as because of their being found
at the extreme point of the promontory. . . . And yet I
was told by Mr. Manson that nothing was to be got
there."
On the 12th of May following, he proceeds —
" ' To the regions of the dead
Long and painful is the way ! '
" I have thought that this ought to be reversed, more
especially in the case of poor geological bone-hunters ;
for it is not when a man sets out on his journey ' to the
regions of the dead,' full of hope and strong in spirit,
that he is inclined to feel the way long. No; even
though he has 3 pounds of iron chisels in his trousers
pocket, a 4-pound hammer in one hand, and a 14-pound
smiddy forehammer in the other; and his old beaver
hat filled with paper and twine. Away he speeds —
" ' The folk still thinking as before
That Gilpin rode a race,'
Nor does he halt, nor lag, nor look behind, till fairly
hammering at the blue slate.
HOLBORN CLIFFS. 127
" But the matter is sadly altered when, after playing
for some three hours at Blind Man's Buff, he looks round
and finds that the sun has gone down, that a cold wind
is whistling along the crags, that 'gloomy night is
gathering fast,' and that he finds he must begone 1
When he looks at the result of his toil, he is forced to
sigh at its very meagreness when contrasted with his
splendid opening dreams. Then, with a shrug of his
shoulders, he trusses up his burden, whistles ' o'er the
lave o't,' speeds up the brow of the hill, and sees before
him the six or eight miles that he has to walk between
him and his home, — then it is that he desponds, and
sighs —
" ' From the regions of the dead
Long and painful is the way.'
" As intimated in my last palaver, I returned to Hoi-
born Head, and after digging out the two pieces of bone
left by me on the previous night, I explored a little
longer, and found the pieces of very stout bones sketched
on the other side. [Six pieces of fossil bone are sketched
in pencil — one is the ' tail half of the Coccosteus,' two
are warty bones.] These are all taken from the point
of the promontory. I think they must have belonged
to some very large fish, similar to those which had the
very thick skull-caps, found at Thurso East."
With respect to the cliffs of Holborn Head, he says —
" They are rugged and fearful-looking in many places.
They are hollowed out by the winter tempests. The
whole force of the North Sea breaks in violently upon
the rocks, while a strong tide runs continually eithei
128 GETTING DOWN THE CRAGS. CHAP. x.
east or west. So that one might almost prophesy death
and ruin to Holhorn Head. In that case, the tide must
rise considerably higher in Thurso, for the Head has a
great effect in turning aside the flood, and throwing it
back into the open firth.
" Fearful as the crags seem, there is a possibility of
getting down at one particular spot. I have been down
there. I intend to go down again. I should be enrap-
tured to find a fish head in such a place, or even a piece
of jaw."
CHAPTEE XL
HUGH MILLER VISITS DICK.
ROBERT DICK, by dint of continuous industry, was gra-
dually acquiring a notion of Caithness geology. His
knowledge was for the most part derived from direct
personal observation. He never accepted a statement
without having verified it himself. He saw with no
man's eyes but his own; he thought with no man's
brains but his own. Thus what he did know was thor-
oughly exact, accurate, and reliable.
As you proceed from letter to letter, in his communi-
cations with Hugh Miller, you see him unlearning his
old views and learning new ones. Every ramble throws
some new light on the geology of Caithness. He notes
down everything that he sees. About the dip of Caithness
rocks, his observations are for the most part at variance
with the views of his "superiors," his "masters in
geology." Nevertheless, he notes down his own facts,
and no doubt they will by and by be confirmed and
adopted.
He was very cautious in adopting conclusions. He
must first be quite sure of the premises. He found many
writers on geology starting with a theory and then mak-
ing the so-called facts fit into the theory. " Here has
130 FACTS VERSUS THEORY. CHAP. xi.
been some one writing upon the geology of Caithness,"
he said. " His writing is very good, but his premises
are incorrect. He cannot have seen the rocks, except
from a gig, when he passed along the road ; and now he
drags them in to elucidate his theory. When I want tc
know what a rock is, I go to it. I hammer it ; I dissect
it. I then know what it really is. I object to this
eternal theorising. My idea is that we know very little
of geology, yet these men have got it dignified by the
name of a science. The science of geology! Why,
don't they see that there are only a very few exposed
rocks which we can study. It is only a small bit of
the crust of the earth that we can inspect. What are
the rocks that we can see, compared with the immense
mass lying underground, or forming the ocean bed,
which we can never see ? No, no ; we must just work
patiently on, colled facts, and in course of time geology
may develop into a science."
Dick even found that some of the fossil fish and
fossil branches that he had found in the course of his
investigations were turned against himself. He had
sent a fossil branch, which had been found in a Caith-
ness quarry, to a friend in the south, thinking it to be
of value. He was afterwards surprised to find an
engraving of the fossil branch given in a geological pub-
lication, with an amount of letterpress, arguing out a
theory which Dick had expressed himself as decidedly
opposed to. Not only was the theory incorrect, but the
fossil was misengraved, having received additions which
were not warranted, and illustrated by sections which
CHAP. xr. ORIGIN OF FOSSIL FISHES. 131
in his opinion were impossible. In short, it was twisted,
like many a fact, to suit a theory, and Dick was in-
dignant that a fossil furnished by himself should be
used for such a purpose.
It will be observed that Dick's first study in geology
consisted in observing the dip of the strata round the
Thurso coast, from Dunnet Head to the end of the Hoi-
born rocks. He did this with great care, and indicated
the faults, disturbances, and fossiliferous rocks, with
their various dips, in the letter he sent to Hugh Miller
in April 1845. He found many of the rocks abounding
in dead fish, quantities of scales, heads, bucklers, and
fossil fish, sometimes in great confusion. Sometimes he
found them in abundance on the top of the highest rocks
at Holborn Head. How came they there ?
This led him into a consideration of the causes of the
abundance of dead fish in a fossil state on the shores of
Caithness. It was clear that the northern part of the
county, where the fossil fish so abundantly exist, had at
one time been entirely under the sea. It had formed part
of the bed of the ocean. An upheaval of the bed
occurred, when or how was not known. The multitude of
fishes were caught as in a trap. They were smothered
amidst thin clay. They died in agonies. Hugh Miller
says — " The figures of the fossil fish are contorted, con-
tracted, curved ; the tail in many instances is bent round
to the head, the spines stick out, the fins are spread to
the full, as in fishes that die in convulsions. The atti-
tudes of all the Ichthyolites on the platform of death, are
attitudes of fear, anger, and pain."
132 CAITHNESS FLAGSTONES. CHAP, xi
The clay formed, layer upon layer, on the fishes, and
was transformed by pressure into flagstones. The pro-
cess of depression and elevation may have been repeat-
edly performed, but every elevation brought up from the
sea bottom dead fish without end. In fact, the commer-
cial value of Caithness flags consists in the amount of
dead fish they contain. " Thurso is built of dead fish,"
said Eobert Dick ; " and the capitalists and labourers
are also maintained by the same article."
Sir Roderick Murchison says of the flagstones of
Caithness, " that they are highly valuable for many uses,
and must prove eminently durable from the nature of
their composition. Their well-known durability is attri-
butable, in part, to the large amount of bitumen they
contain, which has been produced by the abundance of
fishes which existed at the time those rocks were depo-
sited, the fossil remains of which still abound. Tar and
gas may be distilled from them." Hugh Miller also says
— " The animal matter of the Caithness Ichthyolites is a
hard, black, insoluble bitumen, which I have used more
than once as sealing-wax."
But the geological formation of Caithness was still
in progress. These dead fishes existed long before the
appearance of man on the earth. If we stretch our view
over, long intervals, it will be found that, in consequence
of the depression of one portion of the earth's crust,
and the elevation of another, what has at one time been
dry land becomes covered with sea ; and what has at
one time been sea, at another becomes dry land; and
that, partly in consequence of the eccentricity of the
GLACIER ACTION. 133
earth's motions, and partly in consequence of the shift-
ing distribution of land and sea, what at one time has
been tropical, at another becomes arctic, and what at one
time has been arctic, at another becomes tropical.
Astronomers tell us that more than 200,000 years
ago, the earth was so placed in regard to the sun, that a
series of physical changes was induced, which eventually
resulted in conferring upon our hemisphere a most
intensely severe climate.* All the northern lands of
Europe were then covered with a thick crust of ice
and snow. The climate of England and Scotland was
what Greenland is now.
Glaciers, laden with boulders, some torn from the
rocks on which they rested, some fallen from over-
hanging heights, flowed down the valleys, leaving their
ice-tracks along the sides of the hills. When the
glaciers melted, they dropped the boulders which they
contained, either on the land, or in the sea, far away
from the place from which they had been reft from the
rocks. Then was laid down the boulder clay, con-
sisting of an agglomeration of ground-down rocks of
various kinds, old red sandstone, chalk, or coal, inter-
spersed with boulders, pebbles, and sometimes shells.
There must have been constantly recurring alterna-
tions of climate, from arctic frost to tropical heat, though
separated, it might be, by hundreds of thousands of years,
before the dry land was prepared for the occupation of
man. Again, every bed of coal presumes an elevation
of the land, and a subsequent depression. Near New-
* Geikie's Great Ice Age, p. 561.
7*
DICK'S FINDINGS.
castle, there are numbers of these beds, some of them
from eight to ten feet thick. These successive beds of
coal consist of the remains of peat mosses, ferns, jungle,
cypress swamps, and forest growths. They were either
submerged where they grew, or were drifted into seas of
deposit. When compressed by the superincumbent strata
of sandstones, limestones, shales, mudstones, and iron-
stones, they formed the coal fields of every country.
Then, at last, the present land and the present sea took
their places, and man entered on the scene.
Full of curiosity, or perhaps full of the desire for
knowledge, Dick proceeded, in course of time, to look
into the geologic formations of the ground on which he
lived. He dug into the rocks, inquired into the nature
of the soil, and found many things which excited his
surprise and his wonder. He found many dead things
under his feet — dead foliage, dead ferns, dead seaweed,
dead fish, the dead remnants of chaos.
Such was the subject on which Robert Dick was now
spending the remnants of his spare time. He not only
spent his days but his nights in his search for dead
objects. He himself was not before the public, but Hugh
Miller was. Hugh was the editor of the Witness news-
paper, in which he entered all that he knew about geolo-
gical matters. Accordingly Dick sent all that he dis-
covered during his rambles to his friend at Edinburgh.
Here, for instance, is a bundle of his findings, which he
sent to Hugh Miller on the 21st of July 1845 :—
" I send a stone, with a fossil fish in it, from "Weydale;
a stone from the salmon cruives in the Thurso river, with
CHAP. xi. DICK PUBLICLY MENTIONED. 135
a fish on each side of it ; a stone from the little burying-
ground of Pennyland, with a bit of fish on it ; a stone
from the burn of Scrabster, with a fish wanting the head
on it ; a bone or two from the extreme point of Holborn
Head ; a fish, a stone or two from the fish-bed, Holborn;
and some bits of fish from Brims. Some bones from
Thurso East — one, two, three of this form [giving a
drawing], and a fragment of a skull-cover of great
strength, but not so strong as the monster plate I sent
you ; but the triangular knob thus / \ is of such size as
fully to confirm you in the faith of my report of last
year. The fragment is altogether of a massive appear-
ance. I am much chagrined at my ill luck in not find-
ing a whole fish of respectable size. I am not, however,
cast down, but may yet be triumphant."
Hugh Miller received with gratitude the fossil fish
sent him by Dick. He also referred to them in his
articles in the Witness, and mentioned Dick by name,
as the discoverer of the principal fossil fish. Dick had
no desire to appear before the public in this or any other
way. He was an extremely shy man. Some who did
not really know him, thought him morose. But lie was
nothing of the sort. He enjoyed science merely for its
own sake, and it always gave him the greatest pleasure
to hand over his fossils to others who could make use of
them, and bring them under the notice of scientific men.
Hence, in the letter to Hugh Miller accompanying
the above bundle of fossils, he says : — " Your letter, with
the 10th and llth Geological Eambles, came safely
136 QUARRYMAN AT WEYDALE. CHAP. XT.
to hand. That of the llth arrived this morning.* I
turned to it without a moment's delay. I had not read
very far when I had a notion of what was coming, and
the perspiration began to rise profusely from my brow.
. . . Seriously, nothing could be better handled than
your ingenious mode of broaching the subject, noi
exceed your masterly manner of carrying it through. . .
Only, like a good man, do not speak so often about
me by name. I am a quiet creature, and do not like to
see myself in print at all. So leave it to be understood
who found the old bones ; and let them guess who can."
Dick again repeated his invitations to Hugh Miller
to come to Thurso, and see what he had been doing on
Holborn Head, in Thurso East, and at Dunnet Head.
But in order to explore the country further, he went
inland to see what had been found in the flag quarries
at Weydale and Banniskirk. He had been to Weydale
several times, and made the acquaintance of a quarry-
man. He had made an appointment to visit him on a
certain day, and, as Dick was a most punctual man
and kept his appointments to a minute, he accordingly
made his appearance at "Weydale.
"As I drew near the place," he says, "the auld
bachelor came out, pipe in cheek, and sitting down on a
stone, he made a motion for me to come and sit down
beside him, ' I saw you coming,' he said, ' but I thocht
you wudna come the day, it was so blawey.' 'Oh,'
said I, ' I always keep my word, blawey or no. Did ye
tirr a bit?'-f* 'No, man,' said he, 'the grun was so
* 21st July 1845. t Work a bit.
CHAP. xi. A DIPLOPTERUS. 137
hard that feint a bit o' the pick wud go through it.
The grun's like iron. But/ he added, ' I've got a fish ! '
' Have ye ?' said I. ' Yes/ he said, ' oot o' anither place.
Ye can see it in the barn.' And away we went to inspect
the fish in the barn ; and there it was, spread out on the
clay floor. 'See!' said he. 'O man/ said I, that's
grand, it's a new kind' [Dipterus]. It had been much
wasted ere it was buried up in the mud ; the tail rays
were all scattered; the head plates were spread out;
but a piece of the body was standing up wonderfully
full and round.
" ' See/ said he again, ' there's a head !' It was that
of a Diplopterus — much broken, but of a good size. ' I
must see the place from which it was taken/ said I.
' Come away then.' So, shouldering a pick and spade,
away we set. About three good stonethrows from the
burn, we came to what some people had been trying to
make a ditch — rough and rude — and in the ditch was a
rock, and in the rock, fish and abundance of loose
scales. But the fish are much wasted. We worked at
the place an hour, but did not get one fish that would
bear carrying away. We saw plenty of broken Diplo-
pterus. I cut my hand and broke my chisel, and then
left the spot, and went back to the burn, where I got a
few small things.
" If you choose to come here and stay three or four
days with me, you can have a fair trial upon a third
locality close by, which has never yet been fairly
tested. I will make you welcome, to my little house,
and you can give Scrabster, Holborn Head, a trial also
138 JOVRNEY TO BANNISKIRK. CHAP. xr.
— say a day at each. The Diplopterus is abundant at
the Cruives, and Dipt/eras also."
The quarrymen in the neighbourhood had now
begun to learn the value of fossils. The publication by
Hugh Miller of the specimens of the Holoptychius,
Dipterus, Diplopterus, and other fossil fishes found by
Robert Dick near Thurso, had the effect of sending
many fossil -hunters into the neighbourhood. It was
holiday time — the month of August, — and wherever
curiosities are to be found, there is a rush to see them,
to find them, and to carry them home as treasures.
Accordingly, when Dick went out fossil -hunting, he
found the strangers from the south very much in his
way. One day in August, before the arrival of Hugh
Miller, he extended his investigations to Banniskirk.
It was about eight miles from Thurso, and he had never
been there before.
"I have been seventeen years in Thurso," he said
(13th August 1845), "but never saw Banniskirk. I
have been two years a fossil man, but never saw
Banniskirk. You were one blessed week there; but
what were you doing ?
" Eleven o'clock was ringing this forenoon when I left
Thurso for Banniskirk. I went on and on until I reached
it. Most fortunately I directed my steps to a point of
th3 rubbish which, in my opinion, had not been touched
since the first opening of the quarry. The day was cold
and wet, and there I stood hammering away, as shower
after shower went driving by. I was alike indifferent
to wind and weather for some hours.
CHAP. xi. QUARRYMEN AND ENGLISH GOLD. 139
" When I had tied up my bundle I went to the upper
end of the quarry — a good gunshot off — where four or
five men were at work. Accosting them, I said, 'Is
there any sign of fish with ye ? ' '0 no, boy,' they said,
ye're on the wrong scent. But what wad ye gie for a
score o' them ? ' 'I don't know,' said I, ' what wad ye
seek ?' 'I got five shillings for one' said a buck-toothed
man with a long nose. 'Ay,' said I, 'the siller has
been plenty.' ' Yes,' said another ; ' he was an English-
man ! ' ' Oho,' said I, ' that's the stuff ! Nothing like
English gold ! ' Yes,' said he ; ' away wi' yer scabbit
Thurso folk ! '
" ' But,' said I, growing saucy in my turn, — ' they're
lying in hundreds at Weydale — in hundreds at Hoi-
born Head — in hundreds at Brims — in hundreds at
Thurso East!' 'Ay,' said they, with a girn — TKESH
HEKKING!' 'Not so fast,' said I. 'What then?'
' Fossil bones.' ' Not so good as this ?' said they. 'Yes,
far better,' and then I came away.
"Dirty, greedy vagabonds. I knew them perfectly
well. To get a price for a few old bones, they have
thrown rubbish on the face of the strata. I had, how-
ever, got as many fossil fish as I wanted, no thanks to
them.
" I said I had beat you — no harm ! Did you meet
with any trace of Coccosteus at Banniskirk ? or did you
meet with any trace of a Holoptychius ? I found both.
I think, if you had met with any sign of either, you
would have mentioned it. The head of the Holoptychius
that I found, was about three and a half inches wide ; a
140 DICK PURSUED. CHAP. xi.
prize from Banniskirk! When I was tying up my
bundle, a stone beside me drew my attention. ' A gill-
cover!' said I. Lifting my hammer I gave it a blow.
Huzza ! Warty ! Coccosteus ! Huzza again !
" I had a heavy bundle home ; and about eight miles
to walk."
Hugh Miller had not yet paid his visit. Dick was
eagerly expecting him. He determined to give Hugh a
great treat when he came. He would have a number of
fossil fish for him to dig out with his own hands. For
this purpose he went along the shore, east and west.
One day he crossed the stepping-stones at the mouth of
the river, and was passing under Thurso Castle, when
Sir George Sinclair hailed him. Dick was deaf that
day. He had lost a whole afternoon a few days before,
by being caught and involved in a conversation by Sir
George. Therefore he rushed up the cliff and disap-
peared instanter.
But he was not yet at liberty. " One of the salmon-
fishers," he says, " left his employment, and came
and walked sentry over me on the brae head. This
was annoying, but I pushed on. Then some boys
fishing cuddins left their sport and dogged me, tramp-
ing almost on my tail. This was horrible. When I
threw a stone aside, they impudently lifted it and looked
at it. Wherever I went, they went also. I saw the
snout of a Dipterus ; then two in succession of the snouts
of Diplopterus ; then a broken skull-cap, standing out
for about nine or ten inches, but it is broken, — for some
stupid fool had given it a passing blow — not knowing
CHAP. xi. PRIZES FOR HUGH MILLER. 141
what it was. I saw it and quaked, for the boys were
still behind me. I did not betray myself, by look or
by sign. Then I got angry, and ran away at my utmost
" Next day was very wet, but as I was eager to know
if my bone was safe, I put up my umbrella, and walked
over. As I neared my prize, I ventured to reconnoitre.
Thief-like, I looked round in every direction, and then
moved forward, and found it quite safe. ... I can now
say confidently that you will have the pleasure of dig-
ging out the remains of this Holop with your own hands
at Thurso East. I am very glad !
" I will next go to Holborn Head, pass Slater's
monument, and with a spade turn aside a piece of the
clay and turf, that you may have the pleasure of striking
a passing blow, and get a fossil fish there, also with your
own hands.
" I was at Weydale on the 9th, and managed to ' tirr
a bit.' The remains of the Diplopterus are there in
abundance ; but they are very much knocked about —
heads, scales, gill-covers, bits of tails, and such like. I
only brought off one moderately passable specimen for
you.
" I expect that you will strive to drop me a note, as
to what time I may expect you ; so that I can have my
work snugged, and all in order. I shall be most happy
to see you, and we shall have a Glorious Day ! '
Hugh Miller at last paid his visit to Robert Dick.
They had been corresponding for a long time, but had
never yet met. Their meeting was full of cordiality.
142 MILLER VISITS DICK. CHAP. xi.
Robert gave up his bed to Hugh, and he was to stay
there as long as he liked. But his visit was to be
very short. He had very little spare time at his dis-
posal. The Witness must be kept up to the mark ; and
like many other newspaper editors, he thought that if he
remained long away, the world would come to an end.
Then, there was his new book to write, the Asterolepis of
Stromness. Hugh Miller's first visit to Robert Dick was
therefore of only a few day's duration.
The weather was fine, and most of their time was
spent out of doors. They walked along the east shore, and
along the west shore. First they went with hammer
and chisel to Thurso East, to dig out the Holoptychius,
the head of which Dick had noted only 'a few days
ago. Dick pointed out the bed from which he had
taken the gigantic fossil fish the year before. After this
work had been done, the brother geologists proceeded
eastward, Dick pointing out the scales and teeth, the
tuberculated plates, and the coprolites of the fossil
fishes. Hugh Miller afterwards gave a sketch of the
coast, of Dunnet Head on one hand, and Holborn Head
on the other, with the Orkneys " rising dim and blue
over the foam-mottled currents of the Pentland Firth."
We have already given Dick's sketch of the same view ;
and we prefer it, as it was done from the quick.*
But we quote a passage from Hugh Miller's descrip-
tion,— a bit of nature painted by a poet. " We are still
within an hour's walk of Thurso ; but in that brief hour
* For Hugh Miller's description, see The Oruise of the Betsy, or A
Summer Eamble among the Hebrides, pp. 181-6. Ed. 1873.
CHAP. xi. HUGH MILLER'S DESCRIPTION.
143
how many marvels have we witnessed ! how vast an
amount of the vital mechanisms of a perished creation
have we not passed over! Our walk has been along
ranges of sepulchres, greatly more wonderful than those
of Thebes or Petrea, and a thousand times more ancient.
DUNNET SANDS.
There is no lack of life along the shores of the little
solitary bay. The shriek of the sparrowhawk mingles
from the cliffs with the hoarse deep croak of the raven ,
the cormorant, on some wave- encircled ledge, hangs out
his dark wing to the breeze ; the spotted diver, plying
his vocation on the shallows beyond, dives and then
appears, and dives and appears again, and we see the
glitter of scales from his beak ; and far away in the offing
the sunhght falls on a scull of sea-gulls, that flutter
144 VISIT TO HOLBORN HEAD. CHAP. xi.
upward, downwards, and athwart, now in the sea, now in
the air, thick as midges over some forest brook in an
evening of midsummer."
The geologists passed on towards Dunnet Bay.
They crossed Dunnet sands, and at length reached the
tall sandstone precipices of Dunnet Head, with their
broad decaying fronts of red and yellow. They had
reached the upper boundary of the Lower red formation,
and found it bordered by a desert, and void of all trace
of life. They plied hammer and chisel, but found not a
scale, not a plate, nor even the stain of an imperfect
fucoid.
On the following day the brother geologists wandered
along the shore of Thurso "West, — Dick pointing out the
boulder clay between the Bishop's Castle and Scrabster
Harbour. They ascended Holborn Head, went along
the precipices to the Clett, after which Hugh Miller
chiselled out with his own hands the fossil fish that
Eobert Dick had set apart for him. He did not cut his
hands as Dick had done, for Hugh was an accomplished
mason before he became a geologist. There was one
particular sight that struck Hugh very much while stand-
ing on the top of the rocks at Holborn Head, and looking
down with Dick into the deep sea-green water, underlying
the lofty cliff called " Slater's Leap." Hugh Miller
afterwards described it splendidly in his Lectures on
Geology. He says : —
" Perhaps the most striking scenic peculiarities of the
Old Eed Sandstone are to be found in its rock-pieces.
The Old Man of Hoy, with its rural rampart of rock-
CHAP. xr. HUGH MILLER'S DESCRIPTION. 145
pieces, not unfurnished with turret and tower, and wide
yawning portals that rise a thousand feet over the waves ;
the tall stacks of Duncansby, Canisbay, ornately Gothic
in their style of ornament, with the dizzy chasms of the
neighbouring headland, in which the tides of the Pentland
Firth for ever eddy and toil, and the surf for ever
roars ; and the strangely fractured precipices of Holborn
Head, where, through dark crevice and giddy chasm, the
gleam of the sun may be seen reflected far below on the
green depths of the sea, and venerable and grey, like
some vast cathedral, a dissevered fragment of the coast
descried rising beyond, — are all rock scenes of the Old
Red Sandstone.
" When I last stood on the heights of Holborn there
was a heavy surf toiling far below along the base of the
overhanging wall of cliff which lines the coast, and deep
under my feet I could hear a muffled roaring amid the
long corridor-like caves into which the headland is
hollowed, and which, opening to the light and air far
inland by narrow vents and chasms, send up at such
seasons, high over the blighted sward, clouds of impal-
pable spray, that resemble the smoke of great chimneys.
As I peered into one of these profound gulphs, and
dimly marked, hundreds of feet below, the upward dash
of the foam, grey in the gloom, — as I looked, and ex-
perienced with the gaze that mingled emotion natural
amid such scenes, which Burke so well analyses as a
consciousness of great expansiveness and dimension,
associated with a sense of danger, — my eye caught on
the verge of the precipice the outline of part of an old
146 REFLECTIONS ON HOLBORN HEAD. CHAP. xi.
reptile fish traced on the rock. It was the cranial
buckler of one of the hugest ganoids of the Old Ked
Sandstone, the Asterolepis. And there it lay, as it had
been deposited, far back in the bypast eternity, at the
bottom of a muddy sea. But the mud existed now as a
dense grey rock, hard as iron, and what had been the
bottom of a palaeozoic sea had become the edge of a
dizzy precipice, elevated more than a hundred yards
over the surf. The world must have been a very differ-
ent world, I said, when that creature lived, from what
it is now. There could have been no such precipices
then; a few flat islands comprised, in all probability,
the whole dry land of the globe ; and that emotion
of which I had just been compassed, is it not something
new in creation also ? The deep gloom of these perilous
gulphs — these incessant roarings — these dizzy precipices
— the sublime roll of these huge waves — are they not
associated in my mind with a certain idea of danger — a
feeling of incipient terror, which, in all God's creation,
man, and man only, is organised to experience ? Is it
not an emotion which neither the inferior animals on
the one hand, nor the higher spiritual existences on the
other, can in the least feel — an emotion dependent on
the union of a living soul with a fragile body of clay,
easily broken ?"*
While at Thurso, Miller fired his friend's mind with
the injustice done to the poor remnant of the Highlanders
who still remain in the far north. Many years before,
the Celts had been driven out of their homes, such as
* Hugh Miller s Lectures on Geology, pp. 199, 200. Ed. 1869.
ROCKS AT HOLBORN HEAD : SLATER'S MONUMENT.
CHAP. xi. EXPATRIATED HIGHLANDERS. 147
they were, to make room for sheep, and afterwards for
deer. This was during the time that Sir John Sinclair
was so much bent upon introducing the Cheviot breed
of sheep into Scotland The Highlanders were thought
to be idle, and they were accordingly driven away, or
forced to emigrate. It was thought to be "for their
good."
Yet the poor folks did not think it for their good
to leave their homes amongst the hills in which they
had been born. But the law was against them. The
chiefs insisted on their pound of flesh, and the High-
landers were expelled, and emigrated in all directions.
If they did not leave after their notices had expired,
their houses were pulled down, and sometimes they
were burnt down, leaving only blackened ruins. One
old paralytic woman was actually burnt in her bed.
In 1795, Sir John Sinclair raised a regiment, the
Caithness Highlanders, consisting of 1000 stalwart
men. No such regiment could be raised now. The
Highlanders are now in Canada, and sheep supply their
places. Emigration still continued to go on. In 1841
Dick wrote to his sister : " Emigration to America is
fast thinning the moors of this cold bare country ; and
soon, very soon, it will be bare of population with a
vengeance. Two ships have already sailed. A third
and a fourth are expected to sail this season. Many
hamlets have been pulled down, and those that have
not been pulled down are to let!" The flag works at
Thurso, and of Mr. Traill of Castletown, gave employ-
ment to many of the expatriated clansmen ; but still,
148 HUGH MILLERS LAMENT. CHAP, xi
there were thousands preparing to set out for Canada
and America.*
The trouble was renewed in another way when the
Free Churchmen dissented from the Established Church.
They could not find sites for their ch'apels, and sometimes
they gathered together on the verge of a loch, where the
minister could preach to them from a boat. They also
assembled in the open air, along a hill-side, or in a valley
surrounded by rocks, where the minister dispensed to
them the Word of God and the Holy Sacrament.
Hugh Miller was editor of the Witness, an outspoken
paper, the organ of the Free Church. Hugh was a great
power in those days. He was one of the boldest writers
of his time. His paper spread far and wide the cruelty
and injustice of the Highland proprietors. Here is one
of his descriptions, which he wrote while on his way to
meet Eobert Dick at Thurso : —
" I have just returned from Helmsdale," he said,
" where I have been hearing a sermon in the open air
with the poor Highlanders. ... I thought their Gaelic
singing, so plaintive at all times, even more melancholy
* On the 28th August, 1846, an Act was passed enabling a loan of
two millions to be advanced to the landed proprietors for the drainage
and improvement of their estates. The loan was soon exhausted.
The Highland lairds got the lion's share. One of them, Macleod of
Macleod, asked for an incredible sum, so that it became necessary to
limit the maximum amount of the loan to individuals, to £5000. By the
Act 13 and 14 Viet., cap. 91, a further sum of two millions was granted
for draining purposes ; but it was found that a quarter of a million of
the money had been spent, not in draining the soil of North Britain,
but in clearing out the Highland population from theii miserable huts,
and transporting them to the British Colonies !
CHAP. xi. DONALD'S FLITT1N ! 149
than usual. It rose from the green hill-side like a wail
of suffering and complaint. Poor people ! There stretched
inland, in the background, a long deep strath, with a
river winding through it. It had once been inhabited
for twenty miles from the sea ; but the inhabitants were
all removed to make way for sheep ; and it is now a desert,
with no other marks of men save the green square
patches still bearing the mark of the plough, that lie
along the water-side, and the ruined cottages, some of
them not unscathed by fire, with which these are studded.
. . . The people had a look of suffering and subdued
sadness about them that harmonised but too well with
the melancholy tones of their psalms. There is, it is
said, a very intense feeling about them. ' We were
ruined and made beggars before,' they say, ' and now
they have taken the gospel from us.'"
And again, at Loch Brora, he says : — " The Loch
stretches out in front for miles, its undulating and wind-
ing shores tufted with birch, and here and there mottled
with small green spots that, ere the poor Highlanders
had been driven from home, kept them in oats and here.
... I doubt not that the thoughts of them live, set in
sorrow, in hearts beyond the Atlantic."
When Hugh Miller had left Thurso for Edinburgh,
Robert Dick took his pen in hand, and wrote the fol-
lowing stanzas : —
DONALD'S FLITTIN !
Eh, Donald, man, they've served ye sair,
Yeer Hieland chiefs an' a',
They've brought their sheep, an' iiowt, aii' deer,
And ye maun gang awa !
150 DONALD'S FLITTIN ! ci
Ye focht for them, ye bled for them,
Sae lang's a sword ye'd draw,
An' though ye got but little for't,
Now ye maun gang awa' !
Puir Donald, man, where is he gaun ?
His wife and bairnies twa ?
" Oh, fient care I," the laird, said he,
" So that they gang awa' ! "
The wife sat by her cauld hearth-stane,
She couldna thole her fa' ;
She moaned and sighed, and groaned and grat
She wadna gang awa' !
The licht was set to theek and roof,
The fire ran up the wa' !
Alas ! the Hieland mother now
Was forced to gang awa' !
Got owre the cot, upon a stane
She sat, wi' bairuies twa ;
Her heart was brak, she could but dee ;
She couldna gang awa' !
He couldna use his dirk the noo,
The laird was right in law ;
Sae Donald gave up house and haine,
And syne he gaed awa' !
Across the seas he dreams o' hame,
Far off in Canada ;
But grim and bitter Donald thinks
Of when he gaed awa' 1
CHAPTER XIL
DEATH OF DICK'S FATHER— THE BOULDER
CLAY.
IT will be remembered that Thomas Dick, supervisor,
loft Thurso in 1834, shortly after his son Robert had
begun business as a baker. Mr. Dick was appointed to
the office of Collector of Customs at Haddington. He
did his duty there in a quiet, unostentatious manner,
and gained the respect of everybody who knew him.
After his term of service had expired, he removed to
Dovecot, Tullibody, where he ended his days in peace
and quiet.
Robert Dick continued to keep up a correspondence
with his father, though none of his letters have been
preserved. The last letter of his father (22d April 1846)
informed Robert of his last illness. "My complaint,"
he said, " is in the heart. I am sometimes alarmingly
ill. At other times, though very weak, I am able to be
up. . . . There is no prospect of my recovery. I have
been preparing for the last change, and have laid my
hope on the Lord Jesus Christ. . . . Dear Robert, pray
for me. May the blessing of God attend you through
this life, and afterwards receive you into glory."
This was his .father's last blessing. He died five
152 DICK'S LETTER OF COMFORT. CHAP. xn.
weeks after. His son preserved the letter. He writes
upon it, " I have laid it amongst my mother's hair."
Eobert was not able to attend the funeral. He was
too poor for that. The journey was long and expensive,
and there were no railways in Caithness at that time.
Besides, he did all his work with his own hands. He
had neither journeyman nor apprentice. His only helper
was Annie Mackay, his servant.
His sister Jane, however, went from Haddington to
Tullibody, to be present with the family at the time of
Mr. Dick's funeral. After her return home — for she was
then married — he thus wrote to her : — " I have thought
that it may perhaps lighten the distress which you suffer
from the decease of our father, if I should write you a
few lines, — not that a flow of words is the best .source of
comfort in a case such as this. Eesignation to the will
of God will avail much more. I hope you will see it to
be your duty to bow in quiet and patient submission,
looking forward with the eye of Faith to that better
world, where, after a few years, you will meet your
father again. Your mother is also there. Those who
remain behind must toil on, and abide their time,
neither murmuring nor desponding at the ways of the
Supreme Disposer of all events, whether prosperous or
adverse.
"These events create sad blanks. The mind for a
time will be hankering after what is gone. But new
affections spring up and entwine themselves round the
soul, hiding if not healing the wounds. Time will roll
on, and then we shall be here no more. This is all that
CHAP. xii. MR. AIKMAN, TULLIDODY. 153
has been and will be. One generation cometh, and
another goeth. The Framer of all things alone is sub-
ject to no change."
Eobert Dick also kept up his correspondence with
his old master, Aikman, at Tullibody. In the year fol-
lowing his father's death, Aikman told him that he was
about to retire from business, — "that he had not yet
advertised the shop and bakehouse, but intended doing
so. It would be a good opening for an active man, as
he was now baking about 20 bolls of wheat every week,
with three men and a boy."
This was doubtless intended as a hint to his cor-
respondent to buy the business, and thus enter into a
thriving trade. But Dick had no money to spare for
the purpose. His business at Thurso was only paying
expenses. He did not save money. What he could
spare from his ordinary wants, he spent on books.
Competition was also beginning to tell upon him.
Although there were only two bakers in Thurso at the
time that he commenced business, there were now
several. Every new baker served to diminish his trade.
No increased exertion could make up for the loss. The
town was small, and the people's wants were few. When
the bakers amounted to six, Dick said " it was like half-
a-dozen dogs worrying over a very little bone."
Dick's business was also to a considerable extent
diminished by his not going to " the Kirk." When that
is known of a man in a small town in Scotland, it goes
very much against him. The " fear o' the folk " is very
great there. Conformity is insisted on. A man must
154 THE DISRUPTION. CHAP. xn.
be what other people seem to be, or he is looked upon
as a sort of reprobate.
We have been told why Dick abstained from going
to church. Miss Dick, his half-sister, says that the
singing caused him giddiness, and that he had some feel-
ing in his head which prevented him sitting in church.
Another says that he considered the sermons which he
heard to be only " cauld kail het again ; " * and that he
could study the Bible and read his sermons just as well
at home. Indeed, his library was full of religious works.
He had seven Bibles and a Latin Testament, with vari-
ous commentaries on the Scriptures. His library included
a set of Bible maps, and the works of Josephus, Mosheim,
Locke, Kitto, Hervey, Wardlaw, and others.
Dick had been a diligent attender of the Established
Church until the Disruption in 1843. He had a wonder-
ful memory, a large vein of humour, and even a good
deal of mimicry. He could, upon occasion, give a head
or two of the discourses ; and for that matter, a whole
sermon of several of the ministers of the town and
neighbourhood, with the gesture, and accent, and pecu-
liarities of each, to perfection. His old servant used to
say, that if she wanted a sermon she had not far to go to
get one. " Tae hear my maister sometimes," she would
say, " you wud think you were hearing Mr. Cook of Eeay
or Mr. Munro of Halkirk preaching frae the tent on the
Thursday o' the Sacrament."
But we have received another account, from a verit-
able person, as to the reasons why Dick ceased to attend
* Cold soup re-warmed.
CHAP. xii. THE LOQUACIOUS BARBER. 155
the kirk on Sunday. When the Disruption occurred,
almost all the congregation went out with Mr. Taylor,
and set up a church of their own. But Eobert Dick,
who cared very little for religious politics, or even for
parliamentary politics, remained where he was. " 1 am
very well satisfied," he said, "with the church of my
fathers." In fact, he " stuck by the waas." * It is even
said that at this time, for want of leading men in the
church, it was proposed to make Eobert Dick an elder.
But a circumstance shortly after occurred which had the
effect of sending him away altogether.
It seems that one day Dick met in the street a man
named Geddie, a barber and shoemaker in Thurso. The
man was loquacious and locomotive. "Ah!" said
Geddie, " that was a fine sermon o' the minister's yester
day." " Yes," said Dick, " but he was perhaps a wen
thocht indebted to Blair's Sermons and Hervey's Medi
tations" " Ay, was he ? " said the barber. Away the
little busybody went, and spread the report among the
tattle-mongers of the place. The barber's shop is always
the centre of gossip. The report about Dick and the
minister soon came to be known. Of course, it reached
the minister's ears.
Dick was at that time accustomed, being an early
riser, to get up on fine Sunday mornings and take a walk
along the sea-shore, with the magnificent prospect of
Dunnet Head on one side and Holborn Head on the other,
with the Orkney Islands in the distance ; and a glorious
* A common saying when the members of the Established dim S
refused to go out with the Free Kirkers. They stuck by the walls
156 . WHY DICK LEFT THE KIRK. CHAP, xn,
walk it must have been on an early summer morning.
Dick got home by breakfast time, and then he prepared
to go to church. But one day he got a sermon which
made his ears tingle. It was upon the awful crime of
Sabbath-breaking — upon going about on the Sabbath
day, and wandering in pursuit of "science, falsely so
called."
Dick could not mistake the application of the sermon.
He felt that it was at him the minister was preaching.
If it was not intended for him — as we have been assured
— at -all events he put the cap on. " Well," he said, " I'll
never more be preached at. Eeligion is not The Kirk :
neither is it in the preaching of one minister or another.
I'll stay at home, and do my religious services myself."
The person who gave us the above information was
one of Eobert Dick's intimate friends. He says Dick was
a thoroughly religious man, though he ceased to attend
the Established Church. He was invariably kind,
benevolent, and helpful. And perhaps he entertained
deeper thoughts about religion than anybody in the
parish, not even excepting the parish minister himself.
Dick himself told the same story to Mr. Peach. He
said that having been shut up in the bakehouse during
the greater part of the week, he thought it was for the
benefit of his health that he should take an early
Sunday morning's walk ; and that it was an interference
with the liberty of the subject to preach at him in that
way. Mr. Peach further says that he always kept a
solitary service in his own house, reading the Bible, and
the somTinentaries thereon.
CHAP. xrr. DICK'S SOLITARY SERVICE. 157
One Sunday morning Mr. Peaeh called in upon Dick,
having walked over from Castletown for the purpose.*
He found Dick reading the Bible, with Sharpe's transla-
tion of the New Testament from the Greek of Gries-
bach, and comparing one with the other. "Ah!" said
Dick, on seeing Mr. Peach coming in, " you never had
the Shorter Catechism knocked into your head as I had
during my youth." After further conversation, he said,
" After all the translations of the Bible that have been
made, there is none like the old translation. It has the
right ring about it. And then, it is so connected with
all the associations of our early home life."
The people of Thurso, however, could never under-
stand Dick. They saw him going out at all times with
his hammer and chisels, and bringing home loads of
stones. What had he been doing ? Had he, like Hugh
Miller, been " seekin' siller in the stanes " ? or had he
been digging holes in the ground to bury the gold he
had made by his trade ?-f- In these respects the people
of Thurso were altogether at sea.
Dick went on with his geological investigations. All
his treasures were sent to Hugh Miller. He kept dupli-
cates for himself, and by degrees collected a rich
repository of fossils. He stored them in his upper room,
where he also kept his best books. To help Hugh
* One of Mr. Peach's duties at that time was to travel round the
coast in search of shipwrecks, and also to help the shipwrecked crews.
t This statement was actually made by a Thurso person, now living
In London, who left the place long ago, before Dick had achieved anj
local reputation, except that of an eccentric character.
158 THE BOULDER CLA Y. CHAP. XIL
Miller, he began his researches into the boulder clay* of
Caithness. " I had seen the boulder clay," says Hugh
Miller, " characteristically developed in the neighbour-
hood of Thurso, — but, during a rather hurried visit, had
lacked time to examine it. The omission mattered the
less, however, as my friend Robert Dick is resident in
the locality ; and there are few men who examine more
carefully or more perseveringly than he, or who can
enjoy with higher relish the sweets of scientific research.
I wrote to him regarding Professor Forbes's decision on
the boulder clay of Wick and its shells ; urging him to
ascertain whether the boulder clay of Thurso had not
its shells also. And almost by return of post I received
from him, in reply, a little packet of comminuted shells,
dug out of a deposit of the boulder clay, laid open by
the river Thurso, a full mile from the sea, and from
eighty to a hundred feet above its level. He had
detected minute fragments of shell in the clay about
twelve months before; . . . but his dread of being
deceived by mere surface shells, carried inland by sea-
birds for food, prevented him from following up the dis-
covery." j-
But now that Hugh Miller inquired about the
existence of sea-shells in the boulder clay, Dick pro-
2eeded to follow up his investigations with the keenest
* Clay of the Glacial or Drift epoch, usually mixed with large stonea
or boulders. The boulders have been dropped in deep water from floating
ice, and have settled in the clayey silt. The boulder clay is widely
spread throughout Great Britain.
f Hugh Miller's " Rambles of a Geologist," in Cruise of Ike Betsy,
pp. 311-12. Ed. 1873.
THURSO RIVER. 159
interest. He visited every locality in Caithness where
boulder clay existed. He went as far as John o' Groat's
and Freswick in one direction ; and to Dunbeath, at the
southern limits of the county, in the other. He did the
most of his journeys at night ; sometimes walking in the
dark, at other times in bright moonlight. He seems Jo
have been intensely interested in all that he did. Every-
thing was to him new and wonderful. His delight was
often like that of a thoughtful child, in seeing further
into the mysteries of a piece of fine mechanism.
"It appears to me," he said in a letter to Hugh
Miller (1st September 1848), "that the best way of
answering your queries, will be to relate in a plain and
simple way the various truths which have dawned upon
my astonished mind, during my rambles of the last few
weeks.
" Few are acquainted with the peculiar features of
Thurso river. Few are aware that, in many places, as it
nears the sea, it has scooped out its course deep in the
blue boulder clay. Near the town, on the west or left
bank, a bed of this blue clay is seen within a stone's cast
of the bridge. On the east you see it at Mill Bank ; and
on both sides, after that, an immense mass runs on,
almost continuously, four miles inland, until at Todholes
it becomes low, and on a level with the surrounding
fields. Throughout its whole extent it almost invariably
presents the same characteristic marks — pieces of blue
stones, granite, gneiss, and such like.
" Not long since, the Thurso East Salmon Fishing
Company ran a dyke or wall across the river ; and ID
THURSO RIVER.
THURSO RIVER: FROM THE BRIDGE.
consequence of the openings left at the south-west end,
the waters of the river, when the rains fell and the
floods rose, rushed with great impetuosity and violence
on the end of a bank of blue boulder clay, undermining
and bringing down large pieces of it. After one of these
slippings I found the first fragments of shell. A piece
of stout Cyprina was found sticking in the clay ; and
various shell fragments, with a considerable sprinkling
of pieces like grains of oatmeal or pinheads.
" At another part of the river, a large piece of boulder
clay had fallen, near Juniper Bank House ; and here I
detected fragments of shell, and that fragment of Dent
CIIAI'. XII.
FRAGMENTS OF SHELLS. 1C1
alium which I sent you. The exposed portion of the
boulder clay is here eighty feet in height above the
river-level ; and the river here may be about twelve
feet above the sea-level.
" On turning to Brown's Elements of Fossil Conchology,
I find a figure of Dentalium ; but in the letterpress
description of it, I do not find any mention of its ever
having been found in the blue boulder clay.
" On a future evening I examined the blue boulder
clay at Scrabster along the bay. I detected fragments
of shell here again, but not so plentiful as up the river."
In a future letter he says : — " On the river-side, right
beneath the House of Geise, there is a rather high
exposed section of the blue stony clay ; and here again
I found shell fragments. I had a good piece to walk —
through grass, heather, bracken, asphodel, and rushes —
before I met with another slope ; and here also, again
and again, I met with shell fragments.
" A fine section presenting itself on the eastern side
of the river, I stripped and waded through the river.
Here again, my now familiar acquaintances presented
themselves ; and here — what I had not met with before
— I found a piece of chalk flint. The flint was sticking
in the clay.
" I was now at ease regarding the fact of the shells,
but was rather puzzled with the flint. I sounded my
savants, as to their acquaintance with this unlooked-for
fairy. I showed it to them, and asked them if they had
seen such a thing up the country ; when they both —
the old one and the young one — answered 'Yes.' They
162 MORE MARINE SHELLS. CHAP, xn,
had found them when digging, and the old people told
them that fire was in them, and that they were com-
manded in all haste to bury them again, for fear lest the
cattle should get a shot !
" Another thing may be added. I know that farmers
hereabout use seaweed as manure, and that shells of
Fusus, Littorina, Purpura, Patella, etc., find their way up
the country along with the tangles; and that cockles
and periwinkles are scattered everywhere. I have even
found them far inland, and away from cultivated land.
The sea-mews, when hard pressed in winter, eat turnips,
sea-shells, whelks, and Purpura lapillus ; and flying far
and near, disgorge the shells in a half-digested state.
Therefore, I should not attach any importance to marine
shells on the surface of the most solitary and unfrequented
moor in the county. But when I find marine shells
from twenty to sixty feet deep in the boulder clay, the
case is completely different."
On another evening, while searching with his pick
among the boulder clay along the river side, he met
with an almost entire Turritella* amidst many other
pieces of shell. He had been a shell -collector for
fourteen years, but had never met with the smallest
fragment of a Turritella until the previous spring, when
he found a damaged fragment near Castlehill, Dunnet
sands. "You may therefore," he says, "judge of my
joy in finding one in the boulder clay. They are
* The living Turritellae inhabit deepish sea water, ranging from one
to three hundred fathoms. They are known as screw-shells, from the
shell being elongated, many-whorled, and spirally striated.
CHAP. xii. GLACIAL ACTION. 163
abundant, I know, in the British seas, but somehow,
owing to the set of the currents, they are never thrown
on Thurso shores."
On the following evening, he again set out to ex-
amine the blue clay, and found a fine section at Thurdis-
toft. A large mass of clay and stones had fallen down
the bank The stones from the blue clay differed from
those of the red. He had before been at Weydale, up
the country, and at the quarries on the hill of Forss, to
detect glacial action on the surface of the rocks. In
both cases he failed. But here, among these fallen
stones, he for the first time detected signs of glacial
action in four separate instances.
" I now," he says, " put off my shoes, and, despite the
' water kelpies,' took the ford and pushed on to a fine
section on the east side. I again found shell fragments.
My pleasure was great. I pushed on, and next found
a very high section opposite the Bleachfield, on the east
side. I found shell fragments here too. My pleasure
was doubled and trebled. ... I was joined by two boys,
who thought it capital sport !"
Dick continued to walk early in the morning and late
at night in search of his marine shells. One morning
he found an entirely whole valve of Venus casina. He
found at one place on the river-bank a black band or
belt running diagonally in a waving manner across the
boulder clay. Above it, the clay was reddish ; below, it
was blue. On taking part of the black belt into his
hand and rubbing it, it felt like fine clay and fine sand
intermixed. " Am I to infer," he said, " that the wavy
164 CAITHNESS COVERED BY SEA. CHAP. xu.
band arose from the sea ebbing and flowing alternately
over the ordinary boulder clay beneath it ? And then
the reddish clay, so different from the clay beneath the
black belt. Just as if the abrading or grinding forces
had ceased for a time, and then set to work again."
He was soon able,. by his unintermitting exertions, to
determine whether the sea had once washed over the
county of Caithness.
" In these days of hasty revolutions," he says, " my
opinions since yesterday have changed. I am now
enabled to answer the question which I put to you as
to whether there was a sea here before the deposition
of the boulder clay.
" This morning, on clearing away the clay from my
shell crumbs from Harpsdale, I found a piece of the
Common Mussel and a piece of the Eock Whelk — Pur-
pura lapillus."
There was no doubt about it. Not only had the sea
covered Caithness, but ponderous ice-rafts had gone
grating along the mountain valleys, grinding the rocks
into clay, and dropping the boulders which they contained
along the sea-bottom as they sailed along. Wherever
he went Dick found shells among the boulder clay —
Cyprina, Venus, Turritella terebra, Mactra, and several
species of the genus Tellina,
One day, towards the end of September 1848, Dick
went to Harpsdale, about two miles up the Thurso river.
" At Harpsdale," he says, " in the boulder clay, marine
shell fragments are to be had in abundance. / lingered
by this delightful section for about an hour" He speaks
CHAP. xii. THE GLACIAL THEORY. 1C5
of the boulder clay as if it was a lover he was lingering
for. He went still higher up the river that day to
Dale House — crossing the river from time to time,
startling the wild ducks, and inspecting the boulder clay
in all its windings.
Dick found fourteen shells of the existing races which
he had extracted from the boulder clay, and he had no
doubt that this number might have been doubled. He
says — " A list of these shells is necessary, not only to
mark my present success, but also to stimulate me to
further efforts." He accordingly subjoined a list of the
shells he had found, and sent it to Hugh Miller. " Thin
shell valves," he said, " such as Tellina, have been found
entire. Pieces of Cyprina are by far the most abundant.
But I suspect that it will not do to say that it was
owing to their superior strength — their strong construc-
tion— that they are found so very abundant. Mactra
and Tellina have received slight damage ; small young
Crassina (a month old ?) have withstood the fearful
shock of mountain waves, of dashing icebergs grinding
and pounding, whirling about and reeling like playthings
— seas charged with mud, and stones of stupendous
weight ; all these have been tossing hither and thither,
ebbing and flowing, and the earth reeling ; and yet, a
diminutive little thing like this now lying before me has
been preserved! Amazing! I have met with many
stones in the boulder clay grooved and scratched and
rubbed in the strangest way imaginable. For the pre-
sence of these stones where they now are, I think the
glacial theory is the most likely.
166
DUNCANSBY STACKS.
" I have found gneiss, light blue kind of grauwacke,
oolite, and oolite conglomerate, in the clay. I know of
no rocks in situ to the west similar to these. The blue
clay and dark clay is undoubtedly derived from the
ordinary rocks of the county. It is found in various
degrees of purity, but is in general one confused jumble,
and as hard rammed as if a giant had used one of the
Stacks of Duncansby as a paving hammer."
STACKS OF DUNCANSBY.
CHAPTEE XIIL
DICK'S SEARCHINGS AMONGST THE
BOULDER CLAY.
DICK tested the statements of other geologists, no matter
how distinguished, by his own observations. Thus, he
found that Sir Charles Lyell had stated, in his Elements
of Geology, that very few organic remains had been
found in the boulder clay, and especially in the till,
throughout Scotland.
" Now," says Dick to Hugh Miller, " you see the
results of my observations. Marine shells have been
found in nearly all the sections of boulder clay that I
have met with. But I thought it better, instead of
further searching the clay near Thurso, to try another
direction. I accordingly determined to travel to Fres-
wick Bay, on the east side of the county, and trace up
the burn there."
This journey from Thurso to Freswick was only one
of the many instances of Dick's enthusiastic deter-
mination in the cause of science. The distance was
twenty-four miles. It took him six hours of unflinch-
ing walking to reach the scene of his operations. It
was October, and the weather was growing cold. Dick
went across the Broad Linns extending from Barwick to
168 MOONLIGHT AT CANISBAY. CHAP, xm,
Mey and Canisbay, a long sea-exposed road. From near
Canisbay church he saw the moon overhead, and the
Skerry lights shimmering in the distance at the mouth
of the Pentland Firth.
The man who walks by moonlight travels among
enchantments. Everything he sees is different from
what it is in daylight. Roadside knolls are mountains
along the horizon ; the little cottages by the roadside are
palatial ; and the distant sea is full of glory. We tell
the story of Dick's journey to Freswick in his own words.
They are full of interest : —
" It is a sad drawback to my long rambles," he says,
" that I am under the necessity of returning home by
four o'clock in the same day. The distance to Freswick
is twenty-four miles. It took me six hours to walk
there, six hours to walk back, leaving about three hours
for investigation on the spot, — thus making about fifteen
hours in all.
" To accomplish this I started at midnight. I passed
over the town's bridge at a quarter to twelve, under the
favour of as lovely a moon as ever blessed an unthank-
ful world. Though I walked alone, I walked cheerily.
" About a quarter to six in the morning I found
myself gazing up at the droll windows of the old castle
of Freswick, while daylight and moonlight were yet
struggling for the mastery.
" It was too dim, too queer a light to enable me to
scrutinise the boulder clay sections, so I passed over the
burn and along the shore, on the top of a high ridge of
sand and recent shells, blown up, I suppose, by stormy
CHAP. XIII.
FRESWICK BURN.
169
•winds — at least 100 feet over the sea-leveL I looked
round and round the little bay, and thought I could dis-
cern, on the Duncansby side, a terrace about thirty or
forty feet above the present sea-leveL It was the first
terrace I had seen. There are no terraces at Thurso. If
they ever existed, the encroachments of the sea have
obliterated them.
CK CASTLE AND HEADLAND.
' The daylight was now good. It had obliterated the
light of the moon. At six o'clock I turned into the burn,
of Freswick, close under the castle ; and had not pro-
ceeded above a gunshot, when I found a low section of
blue clay, thickly charged with recent marine fragments,
chiefly Cyprina.
" I passed up the burn, from section to section, and
extracted shells out of them all — 111 some instances entire
170 WADING THE BURN.
univalves. In the first clay section I examined I found
many rolled pieces of what seemed chalk ; it is either
chalk, or very pure petrified shell-marl. I also found at
another place chalk flints !
"As I went up the burn, I found the sections of
boulder clay growing higher and higher, up to thirty
feet in height. I found them get fuller of stones. It
had also a reddish belt — a band of sand and clay inter-
mixed, running through it horizontally. The marine
shells exceeded in numbers my fondest expectations.
" I reached the bridge carrying the public road over
the burn. Though the bridge is only about fifteen
minutes' walk from the sea, it took me three hours to
reach it, and there I found that my time was exhausted.
I had been so busily employed in extracting marine
shells from the clay.
" "Wishing to take the loop out of the road, I struck
across the moor. I came to the burn again, and found
section after section crowded with shell crumbs thicker
than the spots on the leopard. Atop of the sections, a
stratum of peat, and over all heather, knee deep. What
a reward for my six hours' travel ! What a paradise for
the geologist !
" I splashed through the burn, first to one side, then
to the other; till in an agony I ultimately ran away
from the temptation. I found it was half-past ten
o'clock ! So away I went post-haste ! "
Shortly after his return, Dick sent to Hugh Miller a
list of the twenty -four marine shells (giving their
various names) which he had already found in the
CHAP. xin. REPORT BY HUGH MILLER. 171
boulder clay of Caithness. Hugh Miller had said
that he "had never found in the boulder clay the
slightest trace of an organism that could be held to
belong to itself," and he "became somewhat sceptical
regarding the very existence of boulder fossils. I must
now state, however," he says, " that my scepticism has
thoroughly given way ; and that, slowly yielding to the
force of positive evidence, I have become an assured
believer in the comminuted recent shells of the boulder
clay, as in the Belemnites of the Oolite and Lias, or
the ganoid Ichthyolites of the Old Red Sandstone."*
Hugh Miller then refers to the numerous marine shells
found by Dick on the banks of the Thurso river, and
in the- boulder clay along the burn at Freswick.
Dick went on with his observations. On the 27th
October 1848, he thus began his letter to Hugh
Miller:—
"The whole affair is settled. Scepticism may go
sneak with the moles and the bats, into holes and
corners. It was no mud eruption — no temporary flood
of ocean brine — that laid down the blue clay and
marine shells in Freswick Burn. No! It was the
ocean itself, wide and broad as poor auld Scotland,
when the proudest pinnacles of Dunnet Head lay far
beneath its billows.
" In my last note to you, I said that I must go and
see the eastern side of Dunnet Head, chafed by the
boisterous waves of the rude Pentland Firth. Monday,
• " Rambles of a Geologist," in Cruise of the Betsy, pp. 311-15. Ed. 1873
172 JOURNEY TO DUNNET CLIFFS. CHAP. xin.
Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday, went by — cold,
wet, and listless. But I had hopes of Friday. I rose at
half-past two o'clock, worked till eight, set out at half-
past eight for Dunnet cliffs, and was home again at half-
past three in the afternoon. Try that, gentlemen-geolo-
gists ; try that, if ye can !
" ' But what got ye ? ' 1 hear you say. ' What got ye ?'
Well, I will tell you every word about it ; and, believe
me, unless I had the opportunity of telling it to you, I
would never have gone a footstep in search of auld warld
shells.
"Well! on arriving at the eastern side of Dunnet
cliffs, I made direct for a precipitous cliff at least 150
feet high ; where, some years ago, I sat on a big bouldei
of sandstone, making my breakfast on cold rolls and
cheese. In the present instance, I wound along the
foot of these breakneck rocks, which, unless the tide had
been out, I would not have been able to do, — for the
tide comes close in under the cliff.
" I clambered over the fallen stones, dashed by white
spray, which went clean over me like a shower-bath.
Winding along, creeping my way, I could not help
admiring the multitudes of LiUorina rudis which
besprinkled the stones. I was as much a child as ever.
I filled my vest pocket — simply because they were
bonnie.
" I soon found that I was about to be disappointed as
regards the first half of the serious work that I had come
in quest of. The precipitous cliffs of red sandstone to
Hie west of the little haven of Brough are gradually
CHAP. xin. EAST SIDE OF DUNNET HEAD.
173
mouldering, and as they
moulder the earthy mat-
ter falls down; but meet-
ing with few ledges of
rock to arrest it, the
whole is swept away by
the sea.
"Here and there,
as I went on, I found
patches of it, forming a
talus at the foot of the
cliffs, with green turf,
bedecked with withered
wild flowers. I found
that the sea, at high
tides, had cut
IT., small sec-
tions
DUJJHET CLIFFS : EASTERN 8IDK.
9
174 B ROUGH HAVEN.
out of the end of the slopes. I examined these, and
found shell crumbs, but they were not the genuine thing.
I found, along with the crumbs, entire shells of Helix,
Pupa, Clausilia, etc. This stamped these sandslips as
quite modern affairs.
" Then I went on to the cottage built beside the small,
neat, landing-place on the sea-shore, at Brough Haven.
The braes above here are at least eighty feet high ; and
a fine landslip had, not very long ago, taken place ; but
alas ! the Government folks, anxious to have everything
tidy, had driven piles of wood into the ground, and laid
fresh divots* over the whole of it. Had they only known
that I was coming to see the place, they would doubtless
have left it bare and raw !
" Never mind ! In spite of them, I found a few small
landslips, and in the raw face of them I found, what
surprised me, my old friend the blue boulder clay, filled
with pieces of Cyprina ! I gathered a handful, and
passed on to a precipitous cliff of blue boulder clay, right
above the cottages on the shore ; and digging steps for
my feet up the clay, I found Cyprina and shell crumbs
of the sea. On the very top of the brae, just a little back,
the Government men have built a very handsome
cottage.^
" A very little to the west of this cottage there is a
small burn. The burn has cut its way down through
* Plats of grass.
f It is at the little haven of Brough that the supplies are landed
for the men at the lighthouse situated on the northern end of Dunnet
Head.
ROCKS AT BROUGH.
CHAP. xni. THE EDGE OF THE PRECIPICE. 175
the boulder clay. I went into the ravine, and stood
looking round me. No sight could give me so much
pleasure and surprise. I found, on walking along the
little rill, that there was a tiny cascade about eight or
nine feet deep, down which the mossy water leapt dash-
ingly over a perpendicular wall of real, blue, stony,
boulder clay !
" I advanced to the brink of the waterfall, and there
again I stood, and looked, and wondered ! Never was
mortal so enchanted. Boulder clay on each side, all
fretted with ' barley mill ' fragments of shells, pieces of
Cyprina, and blue stones, pebbly fragments, standing
half out, half in, as thick as locusts. And the wide sea
immeasurably far away !
"I looked down, and saw distinctly shells, commi-
nuted shells, studding the clay at the foot of the water-
fall, and the steep sides of a section beyond it, to the
very edge of the precipice. I wished to jump down,
but, like the cautious puddock, I reflected ' how was I
to get up again ?' The sides of the small chasm were as
perpendicular as a wall, and nearly as hard. I tried my
hammer and old knife on the hard clay beside me, and
it put me to a swither.
" Yet I must get down ; and at length I determined tc
try. Observing that the bank or section of boulder clay,
nearly at the very edge of the precipice, on the east
side, was a little lower than the rest, I resolved to go
down there. I thought that, by digging steps for my
feet, I should doubtless get up again.
" It was a venture, let me tell you. One false step, and
176 AMONGST THE BOULDER CLAY. CHAP. xm.
down I should have gone over the precipitous wall of red
sandstone — down, down, to the sea-washed rocks below.
But not so fast ! I am not the man to break my neck
for auld-warld shells. No ! So, laying firm hold of the
grass, I deposited my legs downwards, quietly over each
other, and then slid softly down on my hunkers ! — Now !
" I walked up to the foot of the little cascade, and
stood, and looked, and better looked. The boulder cliff
or brae on the west side, was about fifteen or twenty
feet high, and rested on polished red sandstone. It was
thickly charged with stone fragments, not of red sand-
stone, mind you, — not one crumb ; but dark, bituminous,
claystone fragments, of small size, generally about the
size of the heads of harrow teeth, or of old nails in
cathedral doors. I found many 'barley mill' shell
crumbs, — all small, not one large piece, and all of
Cyprina.
" My dear friend Turritella was not there at alL I
examined the pieces of stone to see if I could find groov-
ing or scratching; but though they were all well polished,
1 detected no decided grooving. One or two of the
largest and broadest stones had fine scratchings, but not
at all so deep, or so continuous, as on the big stones I
found at Thurdystoft, on the Thurso river.
"I brought away a piece of the bituminous clays,
and one stone, well polished, with a hollow depression
on one side. I took a few of the shell crumbs, but not
all. I purposely left a few for the CRITICS ! or the next
gentleman who may venture there.
" There are moments when a real heartfelt pleasure
CHAP. xiii. THE PARADISE OF A GEOLOGIST. 177
amply repays us poor mortals for years of sorrow. And
such a moment was mine now. There I stood with
evidences of Old World convulsions and changes
environed round about me on every side. And yet there
was a living cascade, merrily piping away the sunny
hours at my feet, the crystal drops bedecking my clay-
soiled boots. Columbus had never cast anchor here.
No philosopher had ever entered this paradise. It was
all a new world. To me for the moment it was The
World. And I triumphed in the felt conviction that a
humble individual like myself had, under Providence,
' done the State some service ;' for the evidence that it
brings to bear on geological science is not to be gainsaid.
"Not many yards inland from this fine section of
boulder clay, resting on cliffs of red sandstone on the
east side of Dunnet Cliffs, high over the Pentland Firth,
— not many yards inland there lies, over this clay, a
black peat moss, which, judging from examinations
made in it, is at least seven or eight feet thick. How
old is that black moss ? Hundreds, thousands of years ?
Yet what is that to the time that has elapsed since the
icebergs went thundering over Dunnet Head ? Then
the sea, the wide sea, floated and stormed over all.
" Yes ! there are thousands and millions of grey
lichened sandstone boulders scattered over the moory
top of Dunnet. There are boulders of grey granite too !
Ay, and there are boulders of gneiss and of clayslate.
" But, in the midst of these reflections, I forget that
I am down in a breakneck ravine, and that it is
necessary that I should contrive to get up again. Well !
178 JOURNEY TO HARPSDALE. CHAT. xm.
I went to the lowest part of the section, and digging
*teps for my feet, I clambered up until I reached the
green turf; and laying hold of it with my hands I pulled
myself up with all my strength. . . . And then I went
homewards, full of delight at my morning's work."
Dick was not yet satisfied. He must investigate the
whole subject thoroughly. He was no featherbed
philosopher. He was up in the morning early ; did his
work, — kneaded, worked the dough into loaves, put
the whole into the oven, waited until it was baked, drew
it out, and then was away on some fresh expedition.
At the beginning of November he went to Harps-
dale, about eleven miles from Thurso. The weather
was now cold and wet. It rained heavily during the
whole day. He found in the black band, above described
a belt of fine sea sand, white and pure, dipping east. It
contained sea shells and shell crumbs ; clays of various
colours, black, blue, green, and grey ; boulders of red
granite; small red granite pebbles; pieces of quartz,
gneiss, greenstone, and grauwacke ; chalk and chalk
flints ; Portskerra conglomerate ; Caithness flagstones,
some of them well rubbed, grooved by ice, — all in the
boulder clay !
He was not yet satisfied with his first visit to Freswick.
He determined to make another, though it was so late
in the year. He was for some time deterred by the
stormy weather. It was blowing from the north, with
rain, sleet, and snow alternately. But no sooner did a
pause occur than, equipped with stern resolution, he
took the road. To show his determination, we quote hia
CHAP. xni. ANOTHER JOURNEY TO FRESWICK. 179
own words, which are not only full of life but of
eloquence. They are taken from his letter to Hugh
Miller, dated the 13th November 1848 :—
" The nights are much longer now, and of course the
days are much shortened. I knew that I could not
discern a piece of shell from a piece of stone before
eight o'clock; and I did not wish to stand shivering
there waiting for the sun.
" ' Up, sluggards ! up ! '
" At half-past two o'clock I got my parritch ready,
gulped it down, and sallied forth.
"It is a cold damp morning. Black clouds are
wheeling and circling along the sky. The moon is
somewhere above, but I see it not. Her light is shorn.
But, for the little light she sheds, I am thankful. It is a
long, long, lonely road to Freswick ; but though alone I
have no fears.
" ' Ghaist nor bogle shalt thou fear ;
Thou'rt to Heaven and Science dear ! '
" I am not sure, not exactly sure, whether the deduc-
tions of scientific men are always such as to merit the
approbation of Heaven. Man at best is but an erring,
groping, half-blind animal. His reason is often at fault.
But hark ! the sleepless one gives warning. One, two,
three o'clock, and now across the bridge, and now along
the road, — encompassed on either side with cultivated
fields, once stubborn blue boulder clay, and even yet,
after hundreds of years of dibbling and dibbling, drilling
and digging, it is still a rough soil.
180
BOULDER STONES.
" On now, opposite the Cairn of Murkle, is a green
mound on the left hand, where lies a large boulder of
Portskerra conglomerate. It is about a hundred feet
above the sea-level. There is another of the same stuff
on the shore at Cleardane. At East Murkle there lies
one of the largest boulder stones I have seen in Caithness.
Twenty years ago it lay there amid heather and long
CASTLEHILL HOUSE.
grass. The field is ploughed now, and we have stubble
instead of heath, but the stone is the same. It lies
about 300 feet above sea-mark, and when the ice and
the flood brought it there, very little of Dunnet Head
was dry.
" The village of Castletown stands on the boulder clay,
and there is blue boulder clay in the bottom of the bay
beyond. It can be seen right off Castlehill harbour. . .
At the south-west angle of Dunnet Sands, beside the
CHAP. xiii. WILD BULLS OF DUNNET. 181
House of Castlehill, the blue bituminous flagstone crops
out, charged with broken fossil fish. The strata dip at
low angles — nearly flat. Crossing the sands, with a
group of dunes or sandhills on our right, we arrive at
Dunnet, at the north-east angle of the bay. . . . The
blue slate at Brough, and on to Ham, dips very suddenly.
Indeed, all the way to Barrogill, one would think that
the bottom of the Pentland Firth had fallen in; the
strata are all on end.
" It is a dull, cold, dreary morning. Strange stories
are told of wild men and wild bulls to be encountered
amid the grassy links of Dunnet ; but with a fearless
step we go on our way in hope, remarking that surely
the ocean was once farther inland than where we are
treading. We are now across the links without any
harm or appearance of evil. By and by we have Loch
Haellan on our right, and we hear the ' quack, quack ' of
ducks and the startled cry of the snipe. The word is still
' On !' Up the hill, along the hill, and down the hill ;
and now we are fairly moving across the Moss of Mey.
" The clouds have now dispersed. Shall we look at
the Aurora, or shut our eyes on Mars, on Venus, or
Jupiter, or the Moon ; for they all peep out and bid us
good morning! Yonder are the twin lights of the
Skerries. The wind has died away ; the sky is serene,
and the voice of the sea murmurs plaintively along the
shore. Oh ! 'tis worth all the trouble, all the toil, all the
fatigue, to have the opportunity of lifting up one's eyes
and contemplating the beauty, the grandeur, the sublimity
of such a scene as this.
9*
182 MOONLIGHT AND DA YLIGHT. CHAP. xm.
"Daylight is a sure thing. Moonlight is good, but
you never feel certain where you are. There is always
a hazy uncertainty about it. You may strain your eye-
balls as you will, but you can never get a hold of it.
But you lay hold of daylight at once. You always
know where you are, even when the most imperfect
glimmer breaks through the sky. Does not this tell
emphatically that Man is the creature of the Day ?
" How lovely looked Stroma Isle across the waters !
And all the various islands far and near lying encompassed
by the sea without a wave, placid as a lake. Below me
lay John o' Groat's. Not without reason did De Groot
choose his habitation. I admire his sagacity. Old John
must have been a true poet.
"Most of the existing maps are very faulty. The
one, the two, before me are eminently so. Never mind !
The road strikes off to Freswick. We wander over a
moss ; the land rises ; and then we wind along the
Wart Hill *
" The last time I walked along this road I observed
what I thought looked liked boulder clay, but the moon-
light prevented my observing it closely. To-day I had
daylight. I found that much red sandstone debris lay
thick on this side of the Wart Hill. By and by I came
to a stream of water pouring in a torrent over the hill
I went off the road into the chasm made by the water,
* When going from Wick to John o' Groat's the author was driven
along the side of Wart Hill. The driver said : " It used to be called
the Hill of Curses. It was a Fairies' Hill. But the fairies have all
gone away now."
THE SKERRY LIGHTS, PENTLAND FIRTH : FROM CANISBAY.
CHAP. xiir. IVART HILL. 183
and found the underlying strata Hood-red
Most likely it was a continuation of Duncansby Head
— ' square, red, and ugly ;' so Maculloch says.
" But what took me into the chasm was to examine
the debris lying over the rock. I found it nine or ten
feet thick. In its upper portion it seemed a mixture of
blue clay and red sand, and the upper portions were
very distinctly stratified. The lower portion was red,
like the sandstone on which they lay. I found no
shells, nor shell crumbs. The stuff contained many
fragments of rubbed sandstones. There were a few
pieces of quartz and granite. ... A flood of water un-
doubtedly brought this red debris to the south side of
Wart Hill. Has Duncansby Head felt the 'plaguey
knocks ' of icebergs too ?
" Walking on a little farther, I stood on the little
bridge over the Freswick burn, with the fine sections I
have come in search of, in all their glory. The burn
was in flood, rushing down towards the sea. It washed
the base of the section. There was no mode of getting
near it, but through the water.
" ' Darest thou, Cassias, now
Leap in with me into this angry flood,
And swim to yonder point 1 '
Na ! na ! like the Duke o' Buccleuch, we can neither
' flee nor soom ! ' and as for sinking, like Csesar, I find it
good stiff clay at the bottom, and just hurdie deep. So
in I go, and wade along the base of the section, though
indeed the rush of the snow water was very cold at first ]
and now ' we get auld stanes in store.'
184
FRESWICK BURN.
CHAP. xnr.
" Well, I found a considerable variety of stones in the
clay section ; and they were all rubbed, or grooved, or
scratched. I found pieces of flint, .and rubbed pieces of
chalk. I found granite, quartz, greenstone, and the
BOULDER CLAY AT FRESWICK.
ordinary clay slate of the county. I saw very large
boulders. Broken shells were very abundant. I found
a small fragment of broken Belemnite ! * I am quite
sure of it. It is a piece split down the middle, exhibit-
ing a vertical section and two end sections. I give you
a sketch of it [a drawing given]. Now, surely this is a
* An Oolitic fossil, apparently the internal bone or shell of extinct
naked Cephalopods allied to the squid and cuttlefish.
CHAP. xin. EXAMINES BOULDER CLAY. 185
most important fact ; and it is elicited and brought to
light through your own request to me to make these
examinations.
" Look at the map. There is a long stretch of country
between Harpsdale and Freswick, and yet both contain
fossils of the Oolite, chalk and flint, and a great variety
of stones common to both. Nor must you suppose that
a hundredth part has yet been found. No, no ! What
avails a hasty journey of mine ? Comparatively nothing.
" I looked for my big bone of the first journey, in-
tending to send it up to Edinburgh. But it was gone,
as I half expected it to be. It has been swept into a
deep pool, perhaps carried out to sea. To the best of my
skill this section is stratified, and is a mixture of blue
and red boulder clay, with the red predominating.
" After satisfying my curiosity at this section (from
twenty to twenty-four feet in height), I left it and went to
examine the strata and section at the small bridge. I
found that the strata, when wet, looked blood-red ; and
the clay resting on it dark blue. The rest of the section
seemed to be a mixture of red and blue boulder clay,
containing broken shells. I have a piece of the clay and
the strata in contact, for the purpose of sending to you
at Edinburgh.
" Observing a small stream joining the main burn,
I turned into it ; and found that here too, blue boulder
clay lay thicker than the stream had yet cut down to.
Shells of Cyprina and Turritella were very abundant.
T traced the stream up until it seemed to terminate in a
shallow ditch. Eecrossing, in a direct line, to the burn
186
FRESWICK BRIDGE.
that I had left, I paused on one of the rising mounds of
boulder clay — heath-clad and fern-decked — and looked
around me. I endeavoured to grasp, at one glance, the
extent and the amount of the formation. It was too
much. The organic remains that the mass contained are
immense. Arithmetic is powerful ; but it fails here : it
can give no idea of the tons of clay, boulders, stones, and
shells, that have been deposited throughout the extent of
country that lies between here and Dunnet Bay ! "
In a future letter to Hugh Miller, Dick gives the
conclusion of his journey to Freswick. He begins : —
" The whole universe is set to music ! It is har-
monious. There is, in truth, no jarring, no discord!
None whatever ! And when man thinks that he dis-
covers a want of harmony, the fault is in himself. It
CHAP. xin. CAITHNESS SUBMERGED. 187
is he that is out of tune, and not Nature — not the
Creator of the universe.
"Here is a magnificent amphitheatre of heather!
One must turn round, and again round, to take in the
beauty of the whole. What a marvellous extent of
boulder clay formation ! I crossed and recrossed the
heath-adorned mounds, and I saw that the stony clay
was not confined to a mere central strip in the vicinity
of the Mossy Burn. It extends to a great distance on
either side of it. Marking the scenery very attentively, I
could come to no other conclusion, than that when the clay
on which I stood was laid down, the whole of the country
was occupied by a sea, wave tumbling upon wave !
" It could not have been any trivial outburst of the
sea, — no rising wave from Dunnet Bay. For the clay
copes the red sandstone debris, on the side of Wart
Hill, — at an elevation of a hundred feet higher than the
surface of the beds alongside the bum. It seems to me
impossible that a rush of water, sweeping down such a
declivity, could go so far out of its course, and climb a
hillside. And then, when I reflected that Dunnet Head
has its boulder stones, — that there is a blue stony clay in
deep water in Dunnet Bay, — and that on the hillside
above East Murkle, there is a granite boulder, many tons
in weight, some three or four hundred feet above the sea-
level, — it seemed like mockery to speak of an eruption,
or outburst, or rise of the sea wave, producing these things.
No ! The sea then submerged the whole land, on the east
and on the west, on the north and on the south. The sea
then held dominion over all. Its sway was supreme.
188 HO W LITTLE CAN BE KNOWN. CHAP. XIIL
" It is just possible for a human being to dig into
these sections of boulder clay, and think nothing about
them. He is contented to find clay, stones, shells, and
sea-sand, far inland. He never agitates his noddle
about them. There they are ! It's ' all right ! ' What
is it to him how these things came there !
" And even when he begins to reflect — when he tries
to ascertain how shells, and sand, and clay are found so
far inland, how far does he get, and where does he end ?
After inquiring, and thinking, and guessing about these
wonders, — he finds he is no nearer the truth than when
he began :
*' ' Well did'st thou say, Athena's wisest son,
The most we know is, nothing can be known.'
"And yet, despite the wisdom of the Greek, Dr.
Beattie holds that our Creator has permitted us to know
just a very little ; and the sagacious Dr. Paley affirms
that what we do not know, need not disturb our belief
in what we do know. Though Berkeley will have it
that we cannot be sure of anything — that there is no
such thing as matter or material bodies, — yet ordinary
people do not usually run their head against a post,
under the idea that all that they see is an illusion.
" Here, for instance, in Caithness, are vast accumula-
tions of what we call Clay. On examination, we find it
composed of many different ingredients. We perceive
it to be a body, — unique, distinct, and totally different,
as a whole, from every other. Creation holds nothing
similar. Slate rocks, ground down, seem its main con-
stituent, mixed with sand. Here and there we find
CHAP. xni. HISTORY OF A BOULDER. 189
' fine braw troggin frae the banks o' Dee,' or from the
plains of Sweden, in the shape of chalk and flint.
There, detached fragments of Morven, and the moun-
tains of Sutherland ! Yonder, broken Belemnites from
the Hebrides ! There, red sandstone fragments from
Dunnet Head or Duncansby ! Shells raked up from
the bottom of the ocean ! Lime encrusted with pebbles
from sea caves! Boiled corallines and fresh water
marl! In fact, a hundred years of scrutiny will not
exhaust its wonders. These are the facts, which tell of
some great catastrophe in the illusory world's history !
" What is that History ? What is the History of even
one of its rolled pebbles ?* or of its white or blue stones ?
No one can tell. And yet, if we glance at them for a
moment, one or two little truths can be learnt :
" First ; — those white or blue stones were once soft,
and formed part of a much larger mass.
" Second; — they were detached from their parent beds,
and tossed to and fro, and thus became irregularly rounded,
" Third ; — they then enjoyed a period of repose, during
which some of them became tinged with oxide of iron.
* Hugh Miller, referring to Dick's observations among the boulder
clay, says — "Would that they could write their own histories ! The
autobiography of a single boulder, with notes on the various floras
which had sprung up around it, and the various classes of birds, beasts,
and insects, by which it had been visited, would be worth nine-tenths
of all the autobiographies ever published, and a moiety of the remainder
to boot." Since the appearance of Hugh Miller's works, Mr. Archibald
Geikie, of. the Geological Survey, has, to a certain extent, carried out
his views, and published a very interesting book, entitled The Story of
a Boulder. London, 1858.
190 TIME'S INSTRUMENTS. CHAP. xm.
"Fourth; — they were once more in motion. The
abrading time came. The stupendous catastrophe oc-
curred, which drove them along to a new abode, and
during this period they suffered a diminution of their
surface.
" Is it necessary to say more ? I state facts. Let
others theorise.
"Many persons attribute the changes which have
occurred on the face of the earth, to Time. But what is
Time without his instruments ? Kain, frost, hail, snow,
ice — these are his instruments. With these he rends
and brings down the mighty rocks — even the eternal
hills. The Sea also is his — one of his most efficient
workers.
" A mighty mass of water must once have covered
the Sutherland mountains, and rolled down from them
ponderous boulders, tossing them about like playthings,
and throwing them far and near over Caithness. Thus,
a great boulder from Morven lies at Weydale, not far
from Thurso. Another lies at Slater's obelisk, on
Holborn Head. In short, I cannot tell how many more
there are.
" But one thing seems evident. The boulder stones
owe their removal to the same causes which laid down
the blue boulder clay. They lie on its surface ; some of
them are embedded in its uppermost tier; others are
near the bottom.
" But a truce ! I am still standing by the Freswick
Burn, and must trace it up before I set out homewards.
Well, I trace up the burn. I pass section after section,
HOMEWARDS. 191
finding more broken shells than I can gather. There
are numerous rolled white pebbles. Within a bowshot
I could have filled a cart with them. And every one
now in the burn was once in the boulder clay. I
traced up the burn until it ended in a marsh, at the
foot of a gently rising eminence. I reached the south
end of Loch Scister, and then passed homewards.
" I hope to make four other journeys to different parts
of the county ; but I do not intend to weary you with
such long palavers,"
CHAPTER XIV.
THE ICEBERG PERIOD.
ROBERT DICK continued, during the winter of 1848-9,
to investigate the boulder clay in the neighbourhood of
Thurso, and to communicate the results to his friend
Hugh Miller at Edinburgh. He became more and more
convinced of the action of icebergs in grinding down the
strata of the various rocks into clay and till. He found
bits of Morven mountain scattered over the county, and
the largest stones were the deepest grooved.
Towards the end of December 1848, Dick writes to
Miller — "Perhaps you are wondering at my silence,
though I have not been inattentive to the business in
hand. Dogs, you know, when closest in pursuit, give
little mouth. I have been as active as the very :vet
weather would permit, and owing to the shortness of the
days I have been obliged for the most part to confine
my explorations to this neighbourhood. Yesterday
evening, however, I returned from the last grand
boulder clay expedition of this season — perhaps, with
me, the last for ever !"
This expedition was to Dunbeath, almost due south
of Thurso, on the eastern coast of Caithness. Dick set
out a little after twelve o'clock at midnight. He walked
CHAP. xiv. JOURNEY TO DUNBEATH.
193
along the public road, — by Sordal, Banniskirk, Spittle-
hill, and Achavannich, on to Dunbeath. The distance
was twenty-eight miles. He walked alone, on foot, and
in the dark. It was a long, lone, dreary walk.
As the light began to dawn he saw Loch Stemster on
one side of the road, and Loch Eangag on the other.
DO.-BEATH t EAST COAST
Then he crossed the foot of Ben Cheilt, over the road
made through the energy of Sir John Sinclair. This
was the dividing ridge between the east and the west
coasts. Out of this ridge various streams begin to flow,
which run down into the North Sea. On searching
about, he found that the granitic debris was not confined
to the hollow places, but lay at a considerable elevation
amongst the moors, if ii did not lie beneath the whole
194 DUNBEATH WATER.
of them. The sea must once have stood over the whole
of these elevations.
Anxious to make the most of the limited time at his
disposal, Dick passed up Dunbeath Water, while daylight
was but a mere glimmer, picking his way among the
boulders as he best could. Keeping on the right hand of
the burn, he came to a magnificent cliff of dark boulder
clay containing marine shells. " I stood," he says, " in
amazement at the scene, in the dim light of the morning.
I would willingly have sat down on a stone and waited
the coming of the day. But the whole breadth of the
county lay before me, with mires and moors unutterable.
To linger here might be fatal, should darkness overtake
me. I might never be able to struggle out of these
horrible moors. So 'On, on' was the watchword !
" But observing many white specks of, I could not
tell distinctly what, — 'I darklins grapit;' and you will
hear with interest, that the first object I got between my
finger and thumb was a specimen of Turritella terebra !
That shell is now on its way to you by post.
" I passed on, and found that there was much of the
dark clay in this spot, and of great height. Stopping at
another section I picked out another specimen of Turri-
tella, a broken hinge of Lutraria, broken Mactra,
Cyprina, and other shells. By this time it was nine
o'clock; and as the daylight was good I saw almost
every variety of granite — red sandstone, and abundance
of old red conglomerate.
" To wait and stoop, and minutely scrutinize, was out
of the question. I moved on from section to section,
CHAP. xiv. MISERY OF THE MOORS. 195
admiring as I passed. I saw cliffs of pulverised granite
resting on blue boulder clay; and blue boulder clay
resting on pulverised red granite. The latter was very
fine, and far more abundant than the blue. Section
after section stood up sheer as a wall, and the red was
blazing like a harvest moon.
" In two places I saw traces of stratification. I saw
blue boulder clay containing marine shells a long way
up the burn. . . . The bare boulders are very large.
The granite de'bris is amazingly abundant. But why
should I linger thus ? Away to the source of the burn.
Away to the moors !
"And in the name of all that is truly miserable,
nothing can be conceived more dreary than those wide-
stretching heaths in a cold mid- winter day. The gay
cotton-grass flaunts no more, with its white pendent
heads rustling in the breeze. The heather bells are dead.
Nor bird nor insect is there. Even the hardy club moss
has acquired a sallow hue ; and save the wimple of some
merry tinkling rill, all is lonely and melancholy.
" Away through the moors ; and again through the
moors! And such moors! Hop, step, and jump is
holiday diversion compared to passing over these rude
hummocks. One's frame trembles with the concussion.
Try it on the hummocks ! Try to pick your way by
wading through the pools of water. Try and get round
and between them. It is all the same. You sigh in
hopeless agony. You get bemired to the knees, and
long for a clear pool of water where you may have a
satisfactory washing.
196 A REVEREND-LOOKING MAN. CHAP. xiv.
" Loch More ! who has not heard of the loch ?
Yonder it is, tossing lightly its cold blue waves. I see
the lofty two-arched bridge crossing the river that flows
out of it to join the Thurso on its way to the sea.
Acharynie lies yonder. An auld carle is moving over
the hill, keeping fast by the track road, and that road
shall be mine too by and by.
" But after leaving the moor, and seeing a farm-house
near at hand, I stepped aside to ask the nearest way. I
reached the barn-door, and found an old reverend-looking
man threshing bere.
"'Please,' said I, 'how far is it to Dalemore, and
which is the best road ?' ' Eh ? Are ye gaun to Dale-
more?' 'Yes.' 'And where cam ye frae?' 'Dun-
beath.' ' Did ye come frae Dunbeath the day ?
'Yes.' 'An' where are ye gaun tae?' 'Thurso.'
' Are ye gaun to Thurso ? ' * Yes.' ' And did ye wide
the river?' 'Yes.' 'An' are ye gaun to wide it
again ? ' ' Please tell me the best road to Dalemore.'
' Hae ye snuff ? ' ' No, I am sorry I have no snuff.'
' Oo ay ! Haud doon the strath ; doon by the river ;
strecht doon ! ' ' How many miles is it to Dalemore ? '
' Four miles ; ay, just four miles. ' "
" Candid man ! Oh, the want of sneeshin ! No
magic like a snuff-box to get to the heart of a Hieland-
man !
" I think it is old Daniel Defoe who lays it down as
a truth, that a man should never act contrary to his
judgment and his conviction as to what is right, more
especially if he has a mysterious misgiving about the
CHAP. xiv. LOCH MORE. 197
matter in hand, for which he cannot account. And yet
how often men do so, and how often they find reason to
repent !
" The ill thief blaw yon carle south,
An' never snuff be near his drouth ;
He tauld mysel' by word o' mouth,
The strath was better ;
I lippened to the loon in trouth,
And was his debtor.
" I went down the strath by the river side — ' strecht
doon,' — in direct opposition to my better judgment.
Philosophically musing in mud and mire, I could see
that Loch More was once much larger than it is now.
The river is fast filling it up with siliceous sand, clay,
and peat mud. I walked over a very large piece of
alluvium, wrested slowly and in detail from the bed of
Loch More by the stream flowing into it. Loch More *
will one day become Loch Little, and finally disappear.
Such are the changes taking place on the earth under
our very eyes !
" I had nearly rounded the loch, and was congratulat-
ing myself on my expeditious dispatch, when all at once
I was startled by a deep broad stream emptying itself
into the loch ! To cross it was impossible ; to turn back
was maddening. Oh, the reverend-looking man thresh-
ing bere ! ' Oh, the confounded scoundrel ! ' said I loud
out. But ' forgive us our debts,' I added, and let us
begin anew.
" I turned back, and had to walk and jump over
* More or Molir, Gaelic for big or large.
10
198 TAKEN FOR AN EXCISEMAN. CHAP. xiv.
moor, mire, and pool. I went in a retrograde line up
nearly to the carle's house before I found a spot shallow
enough to wade through, which I did.
" With many musings on the desperate deceit of the
human heart, I had some very hard work in getting
through a very bad moor, utterly unable to account for
the trick played upon me. At last I thought I had hit
it. ' He took me,' said I, ' for an exciseman I '
" With thankfulness I struck the Thurso river a little
above Acharynie. It is accounted fifteen miles from
Acharynie to Thurso, and, having a level road, the
journey might be said to be at an end.
" The granitic debris lies in great thickness over all
the country there. I saw deep sections of it by the
river-side far above Acharynie. The chasm or valley in
which the river winds is of considerable depth, exhibit-
ing many fine sections of granitic debris.
" A little past the old church I saw two fine sections
of blue boulder clay. But they were not for my exami-
nation at present. The old carle had done for me. My
time was gone. I had settled in my mind a visit both
to Dallmore and Cattack. But I must push on. I was
obliged to rest content with seeing them afar off.
" In this, my last grand boulder clay expedition of
the year, I have accomplished a feat in pursuit of
rotten shells, which perhaps not many men would have
willingly undertaken. I have walked more than fifty
miles without once sitting down. Then next morning
at five o'clock, I rose to my daily work as if nothing
unusual had happened.
CHAP. xiv. FORMATION OF CAITHNESS. 199
" The historian says of the Eoman Emperor Hadrian
that, 'careless of the difference of seasons and of
climates, he marched on foot and bareheaded over the
snows of Caledonia and the sultry plains of Upper
Egypt.' Pshaw! There are thousands of Scotsmen,
even in these effeminate times, that would scorn to yield
a hairsbreadth to the Eoman Hadrian, even in the best
days that he ever saw."
Dick enclosed in his letter to Hugh Miller, describ-
ing the above expedition, an extinct shell, Fusus Hey-
woodii, a fossil of the English Crag ; " though," he said,
" Captain Brown does not figure it in his quarto volume
of Recent Shells" In his next letter Dick says — " I am
half in doubt whether you would not consider me
crazed in my last. Stultus ego. But these journeys
are quite exhilarating. To those who live by their
labour, ' every inch a man ' is a great deal. I am sorry
to hear that you are so weakly. You sit too much at
your desk."
Dick goes on communicating his thoughts to Hugh
Miller about the formation of Caithness. " No deluge
of water," he said, " could, in my opinion, have ground
down granite rocks to the consistency of clay. Nothing
so likely to produce what we now see around us as a
shallow sea, alternately freezing and thawing, and
hampered with icebergs. What is to become of the
Mosaic deluge ? My ' supernatural ' is truth. ... I had
already fallen in with the notion of a westerly current
across Caithness. I have seen much to confirm that
view. Keay Bay, Strath Halladale, and Shebster Valley
200 JOURNEY TO ACHARYN1E. CHAP. xiv.
were, in my opinion, grand inlets to the sea — long, long
after the hills of Caithness were up and out of it."
Although Pick had been misled by the" reverend-
looking carle, and prevented seeing the sections of
boulder clay at Acharynie, Dallmore, and Cattack, on
his return from Dunbeath, he nevertheless resolved to
return for the purpose of inspecting them. He set out
on the 18th January. The weather was severe. Snow
covered the ground, but it was hard under foot. " It is
a glorious thing," he said, "to feel the keen bracing
January winds blowing against your cheek, while the
heart beats undaunted hi your bosom."
He set out from Thurso about three o'clock in the
morning, and arrived at Acharynie a little after eight,
just as the day was breaking, bright and radiant. In the
course of his search he found the usual sea-shells in the
boulder clay of Acharynie — broken fragments of Turri-
tella terebra, Cypriua, and the like. As he passed down
the river Thurso, he came to an interesting object —
" As I went down the river-side," he says, " I found
that the granite had at some period forced its way
through the clay slate; and the slate seems hardened
and turned in different directions. The river now
assumes a different appearance ; it goes tumbling and
plunging along. The bottom was rocky. By and by
I came to a place where a small wooden bridge is thrown
across, presenting quite an enticing scene for lovers of
the picturesque. The place is also well worthy of the
attention of the geologist. The granite is here piled in
rude shapeless masses ; and along the side of one mass.
CHAP. xiv. IGNEOUS ROCKS. 201
the footpath leading to the bridge has been cut. The
wandering geologist approaches, and just as he is about
to step on to the bridge, to look down upon the raging
torrent below, his attention is arrested by the interesting
phenomenon of the primary or igneous rock lying in con-
tact with the slate or secondary rock. The molten
matter seems to have forced its way up through the
clay slate, bending it as easily as the potter does his
clay ; and the heat has fused it into mica slate.
" Not only are the strata in contact with the granite
altered to gneiss and mica slate, but about the centre of
the mass a piece of black mica is seen, with a vein of
different-coloured granite leading to and beside it, —
suggesting the idea that this black mica had at one
period been a piece of ordinary schist, which had got
entangled in the molten matter as it rose, and thus
assumed the appearance which it now exhibits. I broke
a piece right out of it, and will find an opportunity of
sending it to you. I also took a piece of red granite for
you, and a piece of gneiss. The gneiss is most interest-
ing in situ : it is bent into a beautiful curve. Such and
such is the fact, if the metamorphic theory be the correct
one ; indeed, the metamorphic men could hardly find a
better argument than in this case.
" After the river passes this bridge its channel becomes
rugged in the extreme. Then you come to Dirlot Castle
— a picturesque ruin on a granitic rock, about thirty feet
over the river's channel — a very romantic spot !"*
* Some of the scenes through which the river Thurso passes, especi-
ally in the upper pails of the parish of Halkirk, are full of romantic
DIRLOT CASTLE.
RUINS OF DIRLOT CASTLE.
On this occasion Dick was forced to return home
before he could examine the boulder clay at Dallmore
and Cattack. A fortnight later he paid his intended
visit. He explored the boulder clay — found marine
beauty. The view near Dirlot is particularly striking. Here the banks
on each side are steep, and richly clothed with brushwood. Dirlot
Castle is the oldest in the county. It stands in ruins on the summit of
a precipitous rock. It is said at one time to have been surrounded by
the river, and accessible only by a drawbridge. At the end of the
fifteenth century, it was inhabited by a chief of the name of Suther-
land ; and local traditions state that it was often the scene of revelry
and slaughter. The castle afterwards became the possession of the
Mackays. The Gunns and the Mackays were the great clans of the
north of Sutherland and south of Caithness, and fought many ferocious
battles in the district. The Gunns were of Scandinavian origin.
CHAP. xiv. OOLITIC CONGLOMERATE. 203
shells ; chalk flints ; a piece of petrified greenish marl,
with a small organism on its surface. He was occupied
a long day in exploring the clay, but the result was
comparatively nil.
" As I was going along by the side of the stream,"
said he, "a large boulder of oolitic conglomerate pre-
sented itself to my delighted vision. It had evidently
been washed out of the clay by the slow undermining of
a mossy rill, and there it lay, all unnoticed, telling its
own pathetic tale to the gnats and midges which were
dancing over it.
" I had uniformly met with pieces of oolitic strata in
these cliffs of boulder clay, but this piece far exceeded
all that I had previously encountered. It was like a large
snowball, such as boys roll together in winter. It con-
tained a great abundance of broken shells, and broken
Belemnites not a few. I hammered at it a long time
until fairly wearied. Then I left it, and in a section ot
boulder clay beside it I found broken shells of Cyprina,
and one stout Turritella terebra"
He next went across the county to Strathbeg Water.
" There are conical mounds," he says, " of granitic debris
all along its south side. I ascended to the top of one
of them, and looked along the Strath. As far as I could
see, the mounds stretched almost continuously, like the
ruins of some ancient Eoman dyke; and they spoke
emphatically of contending seas in times long gone by.
"I waded Strathbeg "Water knee-deep, thinking of
poor Mungo Park fording the tributaries of the Niger
in the deserts of Africa. Ah ! true. But then it wa*
204 ANOTHER LONG JOURNEY. CHAP. xiv.
not to find decayed shells. No! But to please Sir
Joseph Banks and the African Association. And then
there were the golden-roofed houses of Timbuctoo !"
Dick had many more excursions to make before he
could satisfy himself as to the extensive existence of the
boulder clay throughout Caithness. For instance, in
March 1849, he made a long ramble between Dunnet
Bay on the one side of the county and Sinclair Bay on
the other. The weather at that time was horrible —
frost, snow, snow-drift, wind, rain, and sleet. Then his
journey of forty miles had for the most part to be made
through lonely moors and marshes, where the wanderer
sank up to his knees at almost every step. He was wet
to the skin all the way. And all to find the relative
extent of the boulder clay !
He rose at midnight and did his morning's work.
The bread was all ready for sale when he set out at four
o'clock. He first made for Castleton, tramped across
the sands at Dunnet, and steered south-east for Sinclair
Bay, with rain, snow, or sleet accompanying him the
whole way. He passed many boulders of the old red
conglomerate. He passed along the verge of four lakes,
the moss and heather beside them all saturated with
water — elush, slush, slush ! At length his ears were
greeted by the sounds of old ocean thundering along
the beach of Sinclair Bay, with Noss Head in the dis-
tance.
Every step of the road was full of observation.
Dick noted the evidences of the sea having at one time
been dashing its waves far inland. He saw the remains
SINCLAIR BA Y.
205
of an old sea-beach far up the shore. It took him ten
minutes to walk from there to high-water mark on the
present sea-beach. He concluded that the sea once
covered all the land between Dunnet Bay and Sinclair
Bay, and that it was gradually retiring from the land.
BINOLAIB l:\V ASP NnSS HEAD.
He set out on his homeward journey by "Wester
Loch. The shores of the loch weie composed of marsh,
peat, sour grass, and mire. As he approached, he
startled the sea-birds which frequented it. There were
sea-mews, sea-ducks, wild geese, and wild swans. He
counted thirty-six ducks rise in rapid succession. At
the head of the loch he found a travelled stone — a mass
of grey granite several tons in weight — moored just
within the dry laud. Two large boulders of the same
mat -rial lay on the opposite side of the water,
lu*
206 WALK THROUGH THE MOORS. CHAP. xiv.
On he went, observing many high braes of undoubted
boulder clay, though covered with grass and heath. He
observed also sections of granitic debris similar in every
respect to those he had seen at Dirlot and Dallmore.
And then he came upon a mass of blue boulder clay
filled with marine shells — Cyprina, Crassina, and Turri-
tella terebra. " At this moment," he says, " I cannot
tell how I felt. Here, at last, was abundant reward for
my day's journey.
" On I went, hoping that my luck was in the
ascendant. But no. The soil along the bottom of the
Bower valley is wholly sandy alluvium. I was 500
years too late ! The river has done for this locality
what Thurso river is busily doing for the boulder clay,
namely, tumbling and rolling it about from side to side,
sweeping it away, and laying down alluvium in its place,
till at length, imprisoned in its own toils, it rolls away,
a sleepy, despised, obscure thing.
" On and on. Floods have been here, and see ! here
on the river banks is something new — shells of the
Alosmodon margaritiferus lying open, and the dead
animal in them. And see ! pieces of broken Cyprina
from the boulder clay lying cheek -by -jowl. Do you ask
me how I knew them to be from the boulder clay?
Simply by the family likeness. There is no mistaking
one's old friends.
" On and on, through marsh and mire, ankle-deep,
and deeper. On to the confluence of the water of
"Wester. Boulder clay and shell fragments are found
all the way. I traced up the river of Bower until it was
CHAP. xiv. MARINE SHELLS. 207
only a stride across. Shortly after I entered the Bower-
madden road from Castletown to Wick. I went on to
Castletown, and saw that there was a continuing hollow
by Duran Loch on to the very south corner of Dunnet
Bay.
" Eaise the sea a hundred feet at Dunnet Bay and a
hundred feet at Sinclair Bay, and, in my opinion, their
waters would unite. The evidence of marine shells is
also nearly continuous from Dunbeath to Thurso. The
evidence of marine shells is also continuous from Fres-
wick up as far as Brabster mire. I have no doubt that
during the boulder clay epoch the whole of Caithness
was under the sea."
Dick continues to send Hugh Miller various fossils
found during his journeys. On the 22d of March he
sends a fish jaw (of the Asterolepis), with an excellent
drawing of it, carefully done. The drawing afterwards
appeared in Hugh Miller's Footprints of the Creator.
Three months later Dick tells him that he has found
a hyoid bone of the Diplopterus, "another victory
over the unknown." He made numerous excursions for
the purpose of enabling Miller to illustrate the Pleisto-
cene formation. He went to Harpsdale in the south, to
Freswick in the east (starting at midnight), and to Ben
Shurery in the west. The Ben consists of granite and
granitic gneiss, but near the top of the hill he found two
boulders of red conglomerate, of vast size.
" No Oolitic or Liassic strata, in my opinion, exist ia
Caithness, so you must account for the great abundance
of fragmentary strangers in some other manner. How
208 VIEW FROM BEN SHURERY. CHA*. xiv.
mysterious the whole becomes ! How much are we still
in the dark ! However, thank heaven, the FISH were,
before the mountains of Shurery, Braalnabin, or Dorery
had any existence ! Were I to tell some people this,
they would not believe me."
" The view from the mountain top," he adds, " is very
grand. And though the wind blew rather cold for one
bathed in sweat, I tried to look abroad. To the north
the Orkneys and all the intervening lands lay tabled
before me. Turning round to the south-east, Morveii
towered aloft, wreathed in snow. From the little loch
underneath me, stretched a low wide country covered
with brown heather and dotted with lochs."
Another of Dick's rambles was an extraordinary one.
He walked from Thurso to Strath Halladale in Suther-
landshire, then up the dale and round to Thurso by the
Dorery Hills, a night's walk of more than sixty miles.
Here is his own account : —
"I left Thurso," he says, "at eight o'clock in the
evening ; went on to Eeay ; from Reay to Portskerra ;
then ten miles up the deep Strath Halladale ; then to
Eumsdale; then turned down to Loch Shurery; then
over the top of Dorery mountain, down on Braalnabin ;
rounded the loch of Calder, and along the public road
to Thurso again, — a delightful amount of labour cer-
tainly.
" I travelled all night alone, simply to test the fact
of the sea finding its way over Caithness, and covering
the lands towards the sea.
" At midnight, twenty minutes to one, I was standing
STRATH HALLADALE.
STRA TH HALLADALE. 209
by the finger-post, at the lower end of Strath Halladalek
reading the directions to weary travellers ; but the un-
grateful Highlanders had so pelted it with stones, that,
save the word Trantlebeg, the finger-post gave me no
information whatever.
" It was a lovely night. The scene was most im-
pressive. The full moon shone clear on all around me.
Not a zephyr was astir. The drowsy sheep slumbered"
on the hills. The sea scarcely broke along the shore.
The river ran clear and sparkling, but without a mur-
mur. The silence that enveloped the granite peaks
was sublime and solemn. My heart beat happily.
' My vera een ' were enriched ; for all my musings, all
my expectations, were more than realised.
" There is a good hard road up the strath, and it
winds along the river side. The granitic debris lies
thick on the hill-sides, and boulders by the million.
Above all, the bottom of the valley lies delightfully
low. The bed of the river, where it enters the sea, is
scarcely, if at all, above high-water level. For many
miles up the strath the water scarcely runs. Now,
there is a deep pool, hemmed in with rolled pebbles,
over which the stream straggles. It runs on a little,
and then there is a pool again.
" A considerable number of black cottages still grace
the sides of this valley, of a better cast than the com-
mon run of cottages in Caithness. But this strath, by
the way, is in Sutherland.
" About nine miles up, 1 found the full reward of
my labours in the fact that there was no impediment,
210 LOCH HAELLAN. CHAP. xiv.
but indeed every facility for the sea entering the country
and drowning Caithness, were there only some upheav-
ing agency to hitch it up some 100 feet or so. It was
simply to test this, that had brought me thus far. The
road winds up among the hills — hollow, all hollow :
MOUTH OF STRATH HALLADALE RIVER.
hence, I suppose, the name Strath Hollowdale, or
Halkdale— half Highland and half Norse. The strath
was, in my opinion, once an outlet of the sea, just as
Loch Tongue and Loch Erriboll are now."
His sixth exploratory ramble was one of the most
interesting of all. He set out a little before two o'clock
in the morning, and went towards Loch Haellan, about
ten miles east of Thurso. He observed how small an
CHAP. xiv. HA VEN OF ME Y. 211
elevation of the sea, or a depression of the land, was
sufficient to enable the land to be covered with water,
and unite Dunnet Bay with the Pentland Firth.
He went north to the Burn of Ratter, and found the
boulder clay thickly charged with marine shells He
next went in the direction of Barrogill Castle, on towards
the sea, to the Haven of Mey, where he found a bed of
boulder clay 60 feet thick, charged from top to bottom
with marine shells.
" Here then," said he, " is the grand key to the whole
mystery ! When the sea stood sixty feet high at
Barrogill and its vicinity, the whole of the eastern parts
of the county, round to Wick, were drowned ! "
" Where the Burn of Ratter enters the sea, the coast
ia very low, and there is a continuous valley on to Loch
Scister.
" The bitterest opponent of geological deductions could
hardly fail to be converted by an examination of the
boulder clay precipices at the Haven of Mey. He
would find that the boulder clay was a distinct forma-
tion— a generic production, — differing entirely from
every other thing on the earth's surface. It is not a
conglomerate. It would never, though consolidated,
form a bed of rock similar to conglomerate. It is not a
production of the Mosaic Deluge. It is not, strictly
speaking, a production of the sea. It is not the sweep-
ings of a sea-shore. No ! nothing of the kind. No
Mosaic Deluge could have produced those beds of dark,
bituminous, sandy, tenacious, stony clay. No ocean
waves alone, by the friction of ten thousand years on
212 BOULDER PRECIPICES. CHAP. xiv.
rocky strata, could have done it. No ! Tens and hundreds
of millions of steam-mills, grinding stones night and day
for a thousand years, could not have done it. No sea
casts up anything like it. It is a distinct generic pro-
duction, fairly entitled to a place by itself. An observer
at Barrogill could not fail to see all this. He could
not fail to see that the shore beneath, and along the foot
of these clay cliffs, contained a bed of sand, broken
shells, and rolled fragments of stones ; and yet this bed
is entirely different.
"Along the shore, in some places, there is a newer
formation than the boulder precipices atop — a forma-
tion laid down at the foot of the cliffs, at unusually high
tides. It is thickly charged with broken shells, in some
places nearly consolidated to stone ; yet this formation
is much newer. It is, in comparison with the other, a
thing of yesterday. The deep ditches dug through the
Moss of Mey exhibit no section similar to the genuine
boulder clay. They are too marly. These low-lying
grounds seem to have been, for a long period — ere the
peat grew over them — overspread with shallow pools
and lochs of fresh water, in which Limnsea and Cyclas
had lived, multiplied, and died, by millions — leaving
their empty dwellings to crumble down and mix with
the sands over which they had crawled. Apt emblem
of man ' in his best estate ' ! Surely we all walk in tho
same vain show.
" A beautiful illustration of this is to be seen in the
littl^loch of Mey. It is a very shallow pool of fresh
water, nearly flat, but deepening a little towards its
CHAP. xiv. THE CADDIS-WORM. 21S
lower end, where a stream goes off to drive the mill of
Mey. Its eastern shore was strewn with sand, and not
long ago, the mimic waves had dashed across it, leaving,
in the circles of its upper reaches, straws, sticks, aiid
bits of peat. Stooping down on my knees to scrutinise
the sands, I was surprised to find innumerable multi-
tudes of Limnsea and Cyclas, — the whole mingled with
the Old Houses of a small Caddis-worm.* The sight
was impressive. Here was a miniature representation
of geologic fact. Thousands of organic existences sud-
denly terminating their little span of life, through no
fault of their own, but by the seeming accident of a
sudden shower!"
* Caddi#-worm. or Cure-twrm,
CHAPTEE XV.
END OF CORRESPONDENCE WITH
HUGH MILLER.
HUGH MILLER corresponded regularly with Eobert Dick
during the preparation of his later works on geology. He
sent him the proof sheets of his forthcoming books for the
purpose of having Dick's corrections. Even as regards the
Old Red Sandstone — Miller's first geological work — Dick
furnished him with many additions and corrections. For
instance, he sent him the first specimen of the gigantic
Holoptychius found under the lower beds of the Old
Eed Sandstone, which enabled Hugh Miller to correct
the theory set forth in the two previous editions of his
book.* Dick also enabled Hugh Miller to determine
positively that Dipterus and Polyphractus were one and
the same fish.-f- Dick also furnished his friend with
numerous specimens of the Diplopterus, Osteolepis, and
Asterolepis, accompanied by drawings of these fossil
fishes. When sending them, Dick said, " I am far from
attaching any value to these drawings. To me labour
is its own reward. You can cut and carve out of them
as you please."
* See Miller's Old Red Sandstone. Note to the third edition, ;tad
note to p. 176. Ed. 1875.
t Letter to Charles Peach, 12th August 1859.
CHAP. xv. HELP TO HUGH MILLER. 215
Hugh Miller's Footprints of the Creator was published
in 1849, and here also we find numerous indications of
the assistance which he had received from Eobert Dick.
Professor Agassiz, in his preface to the last edition of
the hook, says, "Many points respecting this curious
fossil (the Asterolepis or Star-scale) remained to be
determined ; and it was fortunate for science that Mr.
Miller was enabled to accomplish this object by means
of a variety of excellent specimens which he had
received from Eobert Dick." "The remains of an
Asterolepis found by Mr. Dick at Thurso indicate a
length of from twelve feet five to thirteen feet eight
inches. ... A specimen of Asterolepis discovered by
Mr. Dick among the Thurso rocks, and sent to Mr.
Miller, exhibited the singular phenomenon of a quantity
of thick tar lying beneath it, which stuck to the fingers
when lifting the pieces of rock. What had been once
the nerves, muscles, and blood of this ancient ganoid,
still lay under its bones. The animal juices of the fish
had preserved its remains by the pervading bitumen,
greatly more conservative in its effects than the oil and
gum of an Egyptian undertaker."*
The first cranium of the Asterolepis figured by Hugh
Miller was imperfect. Eobert Dick furnished him with
a perfect one. There was a gap in the print which
struck Professor Sedgwick as being unnatural. He said
it was " not of the proper finish." But after Dick had
furnished his specimen with the keystone-shaped plate
in its proper place, Miller says he referred the professor
* Hugh Miller's Footprints of the Creator, p. xxvii. Ed. 1876.
216 DICK'S GEOLOGICAL FINDINGS. CHAP. xv.
to the geologist at Thurso " as the true authority for
determining how nature had given the last finish to the
cranial buckler of the Asterolepis. ' Ay,' he exclaimed,
as he eagerly knelt down to examine the specimen, and
passed his fingers over the keystone-like plate, — 'Ay,
this is a finish of the right kind! This will do!'"*
Dick also furnished Mr. Miller with a well-defined jaw
of the Asterolepis, and with a drawing of a section of its
tooth, which appeared among the illustrations of the
book.
Dick found for Mr. Miller — apropos of a conversation
which the latter had with Professor Owen — a specimen
of the Diplopterus, which fully confirmed the professor's
views as to the prolongation of the brain of that fish.
In fact, there was scarcely a subject on which Hugh
Miller wanted further information, but Eobert Dick was
ready to supply it. It was a delight to him to labour
night and day for the benefit of his friend, and also for
the benefit of science. In one of his letters to Hugh
Miller he says — "Your letter found me asleep, knee-
deep in fern howes. But now I am awake, and busy
night and day."
Hugh Miller, on his part, was ready to acknowledge
the obligations which he owed to his friend. At a lecture
delivered by him before the Physical Society of
Edinburgh " On a Suite of Fossils, illustrative of the
relations of the Earlier Ganoids," he said, "There are
several rare and a few unique fossils on the latter, illus-
trative of various points in the structure of the first
• Hugh Miller's Footprints of the Creator, pp. 73, 325. Ed. 1876,
CHAP. xv. CORRESPONDENCE WITH MILLER. 217
ganoids, to which I can only refer the members of the
Society as worthy of their examination. They are in
part the fruits of a leisure fortnight spent this autumn
among the rocks of Thurso ; but in still greater part I
owe them to the kindness of my indefatigable friend
Mr. Robert Dick, of whom I may well say that lie, has
robbed himself to do me service"
The same lecture is full of the obligations which he
owed to Eobert Dick. He pointed to the Homocanthus
arcuatus, which, though found in Russia, had only
recently been discovered in Scotland by his friend. To
him also he owed the Hbplacanthus marginalia, another
Russian placoid of the Old Red. There was also a
magnificent specimen of the Asterolepis, which had
enabled him to determine the place and form of a thickly-
tubercled, well-marked place on the middle of the palate.
This also had been sent to him by Robert Dick.*
In sending this fine specimen to Hugh Miller, Dick
says — " I give it you most cheerfully. Your kindness
deserves it. To any other I would not have parted
with it." At the same time he sends him the jaw of a
fossil fish, showing the outer row of teeth. " Looking
at them with the glass," he says, "they show a very
beautiful star-like arrangement of the channel through
which nourishment flowed to the tooth."
Dick continued to correspond regularly with Hugh
Miller. He spoke to him very freely. He thought
that he was sometimes twisting geological facts to suit
a religious theory. Dick thought very little of " authori-
* Hugh Miller's Footprints of the Creator, pp. 334, 341. Ed. 1876.
218 GEOLOGY TESTED BY FACTS. CHAP. xv.
ties," but he greatly valued facts — tested and re-tested.
" It is not," he said, " by driving along the public roads ;
strolling along the sea-shore ; taking a distant view of
Morven through a spy-glass, that the depth of the
Caithness schists is to be ascertained. No ! The very
fact that the schists dip in almost every direction might
have led ' authorities ' to suspect that the granite was
not confined to primary hill a • but, like the stately oak,
sent out its branching roots far and wide. You, Mr.
Miller, rule solely by ' authorities.' Your humble
servant has often found them sleeping, and has no
reverence for them."
Indeed, Dick had no hesitation in correcting the very
highest authorities. " Nothing," he said to Miller (26th
September 1850), " is more at fault than the idea sought
to be established by Sir Eoderick Murchison's section in
the front of your volume on the Old Red Sandstone, that
the general dip of Caithness rocks is all in one direction.
No such thing ! I candidly tell you that ' my masters '
must revise their views before I can feel the smallest
respect for what they say about Caithness. I cannot
resist the evidence of my senses. Take, for instance, the
Hill of Buckies,* which -you saw. The dip there is
north-east, whereas at Thurso the dip is north-west.
" Of course, I am very far from wishing you to meddle
with the findings of men driving along the public road
and viewing the country from gigs ! No ! But it is
my misfortune to laugh outrageously during my rambles
* TLe Hill of Buckies, so called from the large quantity of marin*
shells found there. It is not far from Thurso.
CHAP. xv. DIP OF CAITHNESS ROCKS. 219
to find the Caithness rocks dipping in every airt* of the
compass, whereas it is stated in geological books that
they dip in only one direction ! "
Kobert Dick was not afraid of correcting Hugh
Miller himself. In one of his letters he says : — " You
have fallen into error in your Old Red Sandstone. You
have described Caithness as a vast pyramid rising per-
pendicularly from the bases furnished by the primary
rocks of Sutherland, and presenting newer beds and
strata as we ascend, until we reach the apex.
" Now, Mr. Miller, this is not only incorrect but cal-
culated to deceive. But you are not to blame. It is the
getters-up of the geological maps who are to blame.
You work by the geological maps. Geological maps and
treatises are got up by men in red-hot haste, on data
proved to be erroneous years ago. New books, with
nothing new in them but the paper and ink! The
public are gulled, and the poor student, panting for
knowledge, fills his belly with husks, and by and by he
regards his new books with derision !
" I am working very hard — sometimes seeking new
fossils but finding none ; sometimes rambling far over
the hills and finding a junction of the Old Eed very
different indeed from the respectable ' authorities ' in
Edinburgh. As for the maps, I have handed them over
to the devil as the most detestable pieces of imposture
ever obtruded on a discerning public. 'Discerning'
indeed !
* Direction.—" Of a' the airts the wind can blaw,
I dearly lo'e the west." — Burns.
220 GEOLOGICAL MAPS. CHAP. xv.
" Your Edinburgh Professors can put on their spec-
tacles next time they travel north. If they wish to be
respected, they must be a little more particular."
Dick himself had bought one of the best maps of the
time. He used it for travelling purposes. He noted
down on it the direction of his journeys. He marked
the dips of the strata in nearly every part of the county.
He noted the disturbances, the faults, the beds in con-
fusion, the sites of the boulder clay, the flagstones, the
red sandstone, the gneiss, the conglomerates, and the
various geological formations of Caithness. The map is
full of his marks. In some places, where a river or a
loch is put, he marks " nonsense " or " stuff," meaning
that there is no such thing. This map must have been
his pocket-companion for many years. Underneath it
he writes : — " I have been rambling over Caithness since
1830, and anything more unlike the truth than the
above picture I have never seen. There is no pleasure
in marking anything on it. I have made an attempt to
put in roads. The dip is often seen by the road-sides."
Writing to Hugh Miller about the geological maps of
Caithness, he said : — " It would be easy to construct such
a plaything as those maps of Messrs. , , and
, but when you had done so, would the toy meet
the felt necessity ? . . . 0 brave gentlemen ! bold men
and daring ! how gallantly you have set the truth aside !
— here laying down your fancy ovals, there your half-
moon patches ! just as if Nature were strictly bound
down to mathematical figures, squares, and circles. How
inimitably you have run your Old Red in Caithness
CHAP. xv. A NEW MAP WANTED. 22\
sheer up to the root of Morven, in defiance of every inter-
vening obstacle. Outbursts of granite are nothing. No !
Their iron-pointed crests (stubborn facts) standing up
here and there are only trifles, yet they riddle in rotten
holes your pretty pictures ! . . . For on such things men
now-a-days found their Deep Philosophy.
" Seriously, if any junction of Old Red with the
granitic rocks be as irregular and complicated as that
in Caithness, it will be no easy task to delineate it cor-
rectly ; and unless it be correctly done it will be of no
value. It would require such an amount of time and
patience, such a crossing and re-crossing of the county,
as few private individuals could venture on.
" For my own part, though I grumble at toil as little
as any man, I have, so far as regards any serious inten-
tion of doing such a thing, given it up. At the same
time, as I ramble now and then, I will have an eye to
it, and that is all. Let the Government do it; they
only can order it to be done properly."
Then, about the new-fashioned ideas about geology
he said : — " ' Since the fashions,' to use your own words,
' have not passed away,' how provokingly strange will
you deem it, if you and the rest of your scientific
brethren settle down at last to the conviction that this
earth never saw a creation but ONE. . . . Though diffi-
culties and doubts innumerable stand in the way, they
may yet be brushed aside like morning mists, and the
simple truth shine forth clear and luminous as the sun.
. . . See ! says some observer, the dreams of our wise
men ! They tell us that the dead animals entombed in
11
222 THEORY OF DEGRADATION. CHAP. xv.
the solid rocks do not belong to one creation! and
behold, they still exist. The animal whose shell they
name Nummulite still lives in the Mediterranean. The
Pentacrinite lives in the West Indian seas and in the
bay of Dublin. . . . Your ' Theory of Degradation ' is
at least a very ingenious piece of pleading ; but if I am
right in supposing that it rests mainly on the idea that
no reptiles existed during the period that the lowest
fossiliferous strata were accumulating, then I say you
may yourself live to re- write that part of your story,
[n the progress of discovery, the whole series of geologic
speculations may change. From the very nature of the
investigations, an element of uncertainty must for a
long time mingle in all your most valued performances.
That stern, startling fact of ferns in the Orkney schists
must in no small degree tend to unsettle all fixed belief
in the findings of the stone, philosophers, if, indeed, any
belief can really belong to them."
At Miller's request, Dick again went out to do his
biddings. " Eeferring you," he said (24th December,
1849), to a promise I made to you when down at Thurso,
to examine the groovings and polishings, by removing a
little of the soil in the locality in which you detected
those marks, I wish to remark that the work is done.
You might think me dilatory and slothful, but I could
not accomplish it sooner. In the first place, the business
was retarded by a severe frost. Winter held his iron
rule ; and could you have seen the place over which you
rambled in July last, you would have beheld a strange
metamorphosis. The strata were wholly covered witi
CHAP. xv. WORKING AGAIN AT THE ROCKS. 223
sheets of ice, with long fantastic icicles hanging from
every precipice. The air was still, and the sea with-
out a ripple. Of course nothing could be done ; it was
too icy, too cold.
" The scene changed to another phase, not a whit
more endurable. A cold, ' blae, eastlin ' wind, accom-
panied by driving sleety showers, whistled along the
watery turmoil. This was followed by a close, dense,
foggy drizzle. Bogs and mires were impassable to ordi-
nary folk. Patience said ' Wait.'
" Well, I waited. Winds and rains are but a tide.
The eastern sky at length frowned, and stormed, and
wept itself into sheer good humour. The air became
dry and mild, and a delightful morning at length dawned.
I took up my spade and went off to the spot, in order to
solve your query."
" I remember that I was much struck by the pheno-
menon, when you pointed it out to me on the top of yon
dizzy precipice. I was no less astonished on seeing it
a second time. To me these wonders are never old.
Their edge never dulls. They always stir me.
" I laid bare the rock for about two feet. I did not
feel entitled to do any more. I felt I had no right to
strip the soil off any man's property, so I desisted. But
it was quite enough. The rock, beneath the soil, was
polished and grooved, in even a more beautiful manner
than when you saw it. The bearings of the groovings
and scratches were, as near as could be determined
without a compass, west and east.
"On coming homewards, I noted, at a spot where
224 HEAD PL A TE OF AN ASTEROLEPIS. CHAP, xv,
Lady Sinclair had caused a small runnel of water to be
diverted in order to form a mimic cascade, a good piece
of the rock laid bare of the soil ; and the surface of that
rock was grooved and polished similar to the other."
This unmitigated hard work injured Dick's health.
He did not sustain himself properly. On his long
journeys of forty or fifty miles he had only a little
biscuit to eat. He drank from the nearest spring.
There were not only no public-houses along the districts
which he travelled through ; but no houses of any kind.
There were only moors, and mosses, and mires.
On the 28th of January 1850, he sent Hugh Miller
the head plate of an Asterolepis. He found the heavy
stone in which it lay concealed, five long miles from
Thurso. He hammered and chiselled, and took out the
stone himself ; but he could not carry it away. He hid
it until he could get some help. He hired a man, and the
two went out in the dark with a wheelbarrow to bring
it home. It was a very heavy stone. They carried it
" up the brae at the shore," and placed it carefully in
the wheelbarrow. The two trundled it home, turn and
turn about, until they reached Dick's house in Wilson
Lane, late at night. In a future letter to Hugh Miller
he says : — " Truly the labour of digging it out has nearly
finished me. I worked too hard, caught cold after-
wards, and I am no better yet."
On Miller's asking him to go out and further
observe the groovings on the hill-sides, he says : — " The
thing shall be attended to. But, Mr. Miller, I have not
been to the hills this winter, not since October. Not
CHAP. xv. DICK'S POLISHING BENCH. 225
that I am forgetful or unmindful of such affairs. But
many conflicting cares will be creeping in and annoying
one. Thus the course of stone, love, cannot run smooth.
For three weeks and more I have been grinding the few
stones I have into something of a neater shape, rendering
them less cumbrous and more trim and smooth. Truth to
say, it is hard work, and requires enthusiasm. Geologists
should be all gentlemen, with nothing else to do."
The means by which Dick sawed and polished his
stones, were very simple. An old cask about the size of
a herring barrel set on its end, and supporting a board
or flat stone, was his bench. He had a short portion of
the common hand-saw, fitted by himself with a rough
wooden handle. With this, and the addition of a little
sand and water, he trimmed the stones containing the
fossils, and afterwards polished them by rubbing the two
surfaces together. This work is generally done by
machinery ; but Dick did it all by the strength of his
arms. It occupied a great deal of time, and was often
very heavy labour.
Hugh Miller plied Dick very hard. He was con-
stantly writing to him, asking for further information.
Mr. Miller was then contemplating his new book — The
Testimony of the Rocks — for the purpose of reconciling
geology with the Mosaic account of creation. The
matter of the book was first delivered as lectures.
" You ask me," said Dick, " what good news I bring
you from the shore, from the quarries in the hills, and
from the quarries in the plains ?" I answer, simply nc
uews at all.
226 SEA-SHORE AT BARROGILL. CHAP. xv.
"Since February last, I sauntered east, I sauntered
west ; in fact, I am almost as familiar with every rocky
ledge sixteen miles on every side of this place as you
are with the desk before you. I have peered into them
all, and still there is no news. Old Boniface ate his
ale, drank his ale, and slept upon his ale. So may I
say, I have ate on the strata, I have hammered the
strata, and sometimes I have sat down and fallen asleep
on the strata; and, after all, I am not one whit the
wiser.
"One sunny morning I found myself on the sea-
shore at Barrogill. I had been there before, but I was
never so sure of achieving wonders as I was on this
occasion. The Pentland tides had receded to the lowest
ebb, and the whole range of stratified schists lay dry and
inviting. I set gallantly to work, and charged along
one ledge and down another ; up a third, and across a
fourth ; retreating, advancing, wheeling, kneeling, poking,
poring ; now to the right, now to the left ; then the last
tremendous assault, and all is over, save ' Try again.'
" Well, I found a bed of very dark bituminous schist,
very dark whilst wet by the sea. It almost seemed of
a coal colour, though the stone, when dry, is brownish.
In fact, the strata differ in nothing essential from similar
bituminous beds at Brims and near Thurso. In those
strata I found nothing, save detached scales of Diplo-
pterus, droppings, detached spines of Cheiracanthus, and
bits of broken bones of Coccosteus. Here and there, in
those beds, lay roundish and irregularly shaped dark-
coloured pellets, of what looked like bituminous nodules.
NEAR SKARSKERRY. 227
... I turned away, and wound my way Dunnet-wards,
examining every accessible ridge on my way up. There
is a wondrous similarity among the rocks of Caithness
everywhere, though from the Haven of Mey up to
Scarskerry they are charged with iron to a greater
extent than in any other spot. At the little Mill of
Mey they are literally red as 'keel, and, tilted up at a
high angle, dipping north-east. ... As I passed on,
looking down from the rocks, I could identify the dark
Barrogill bed, buried deep beneath those rough red
strata. And in some gyoes I exclaimed, as I looked
down, ' There's Thurso beds ! and there, and there !'
"Near Scarskerry, at a jutting promontory, the
dark bituminous beds, and grey limy beds, many feet
in thickness, are seen tilted up at an acute angle, thin,
slaty, rugged, and hard, and across their sharp edge the
chafing waves roll twice every day.* I had marked
them often as I passed along at former visits ; but the
white surf had debarred me of the pleasure of a reeon-
naisance. But this time 'twas all right, and I plied the
hammer where hammer had never been plied before.
... I found a few broken fragments of Asterolepis,
scales of the same, and a few scales of Diplopterus.
* In another letter to Hugh Miller, Dick says : — " You know
Nichol's Architecture of the Heavens, and his plates of the Nebulae ?
Well ; many of the ends of our flagstones resemble them — a series of
star-like forms, set upon a jet-black ground. Is it not extraordinary
that upon the end of a stone there should be resemblances to a series
of forms traced by telescopes in immensity ? Indeed no ! All Nature
is alike. The ripple-mark may any day be seen in the clouds, as welj
as on the sea-shore, or in the rocks."
228 GILL'S BURN.
Not another article did I find, although I tried until
the incoming tide threatened to cut off my retreat to
the land. And then I fled."
Dick went on with his ramblings, and sent, as usual,
the results to Hugh Miller. He went to Barrogill and
Gills Bay on the Pentland Firth, marking the dips of
the flags and red sandstone. At the junction of Gills
Burn with the Firth he found several beds of bituminous
shale, containing fossil coprolites and large seaweed
plants not unlike a stout bough. This was afterwards
engraved in Hugh Miller's Testimony of the Rocks. Dick
found the beds of clay slate interlacing with the huge
mass of red sandstone before him, and up Gills Burn he
saw a beautiful section of boulder clay. '• No less than
three little streams have cut their course through the
boulder clay, laying bare their internal structure most
beautifully. In one of those little streams you walk
up into the very bowels of the earth, with a perpendi-
cular wall on each side of you, picking out at your leisure
Crassena, Mactra, Cyprina, Turritella, Dentalium, chalk,
flints, pieces of Oolite, and such like.
" Freswick Burn is nothing, Harpsdale is nothing, the
Haven of Mey is nothing to a geologist, compared with
this. I wish you no higher gratification than an hour
spent among the clay and shells at Gills Bay. This
section is noticeable because it exhibits at the base,
just where it rests on the red sandstone, a bed of
gravel and shells — broken and intermixed together —
a thing I never saw in connection with any other sec-
tion. I have seen, here and there, small gravel nests of
CHAP. xv. RAMBLE TO BENCHEILT. 229
various shapes, but never at the hase line. In truth, I
do not remember ever seeing the base line of a section
of boulder clay until I saw this one."
From Gills Bay, Dick went westwards to the bay of
Scotland Haven, where he found various remains of the
Asterolepis. He brought away a few of them, more by
way of memorial than because of their value. "The
slates from this locality on to Dunnet," he says, " dip
east-north-east, and in many places they are in com-
plete confusion. As I passed homewards, my thoughts
reverted to the ignorance of those who imagine that
Caithness strata have in general one particular dip — one
'general dip.' A greater delusion never entered the
brain-box of mortal man."
Dick's next ramble was to Bencheilt, about twenty-
five miles south of Thurso. His wish was to examine
the granitic de'bris, and to correct the observations made
during his midnight journey to Dunbeath about three
years before. He went by Sordal and Spittle Hill,
where the strata dipped east. At the thirteenth mile-
stone, he found the granitic de'bris, and it continued to
Stemster Hill. Passing a Druidical pillar, nine feet
high, he went on to Bencheilt. He was twenty miles
from home. His time was nearly up ; yet he determined
bo ascend the mountain. Observing, however, that the
Loch of Stemster was close at hand, and that a Druid's
temple stood on its side, he resolved to go over and see
the great antiquarian monument.
" The Druidical temple," he says, " is not a circle.
It is shaped like a horse-shoe — like an old-fashioned
11*
230 DRUIDICAL TEMPLE. CHAP, xv
reticule basket, or rather like an old wife's pocket —
pardon the simile. The stones are from the hills around.
The highest stone may be six feet high ; their average
height about four feet. They are grey, moss-grown, and
lichened ; and upon some of their points the hammer of
the antiquarian has hit very hard. At the north-east
corner is a small space, outside the circle, at the foot of
a large stone — the second stone in the end row, — at
which some person has been digging for relics, and has
left it half open. The small space looks a grave, as if
some one had been buried there after sacrifice.
" Eeturning to the west end of Stemster Loch, you
observe a small stream runs out of it down to Loch
Rangag. This little stream I traced from the one loch
to the other. I traced it very patiently, and was
rewarded and delighted.
" Where the burn runs out of Loch Stemster, there
has been dug a sort of watercourse, and a sluice-gate
has been put in. They have cut through the strata,
hard clay stone, and bituminous stone, with the same
abrupt dip to the east. You go down the stream, over
the edges of the strata, still dipping east. On and on, and
still the dip is east. Going on, over their edges, you
are arrested by a bed tilted south ! Dip south. Close in
contact, you find a bed on end! — broken fragments,
angular, gneiss-looking, hard, bound together by three
seams of lime crystallised. Disturbance and even tritu-
ration have been at work. On a little. The strata wheel
round again to an easterly dip. Down, down, and down
— down even to the Mill, and even below the Mill j and
CHAP. xv. DIVERSITY OF DIP^. 231
the same beds, bed over bed ; what a pile ! The dis-
tance between the two lochs is about a mile on the map.
During half of that mile, you descend the strata, bed
upon bed, stair-like ; about 2625 feet. Then up above
Loch Stemster another hill overlies all this thickness of
rocks ! You are perfectly safe in estimating the thick-
ness of the Slate beds."
After he had made his observations, he returned
home with all speed. The bread must be made and
baked, and the bread must be sold. His hard day's
work in the mountains was followed by a hard day's
work in the bakehouse.
"A long period elapsed before Dick again corre-
sponded with Hugh Miller. The latter was editing the
Witness, and preparing his admirable book entitled
My Sctwols and Schoolmasters. Dick had again returned
to his study of botany. But the correspondence seems
to have been resumed towards the end of 1854. In a
letter written by Dick to Hugh Miller, he says, " When
Satan once appeared where he ought not to have been,
and was asked ' Whence comest thou ? ' his answer was,
' From going to and fro in the earth, and walking up
and down in it.' Now, what could you expect from any
deil's bairns but only a reflex of their father's conduct ?
I too have been going to and fro in the earth, and
walking up and down in it ; with this difference, how-
ever, that I have had the very best intentions. And
though Satan's palace chambers are said to be paved
with such, I hope he shan't have any of mine for flag-
stones— more particularly as my acts h^ve been of tlie
232 LABORIOUS JOURNEYS. CHAP. xv.
most innocent kind, — scorning to mock, the use of any
living thing, — not even rudely crossing the stray ideas
of any fellow-geologist.
" I have been admiring the fashion of the grass of the
field ; not only admiring but collecting it ; not only
collecting but studying it. In the prosecution of the
study, I have made hundreds of laborious journeys. I
have ransacked the coast, — rambled inland over moor,
niire, and meadow — up hills and across valleys — peeped
into running streams and stagnant pools, goose-dubs
and dismal lochs. Finally, I have been twice on the
pinnacle of Morven — the Mont Blanc of Caithness.
"Nor has the peculiar study that you favour been
forgotten. I have made many journeys expressly in
search of fossils, or to examine some particular stratum,
I have regularly visited the boulder clay after rains and
storms — kept a keen eye after all the slate quarries —
and even spent days in scrutinising Dunnet cliffs.
True, in March 1854, 1 clambered down the West Front,
more than two hundred feet, and examined, searched, and
hammered for hours ; and my only reward was a curious
thing, which is still a problem. Splendid sections are
those cliffs. How strange one feels, crawling along their
feet, and looking up their perpendicular height ! What
mites, what trifles we are amidst the might of earth and
the vastness of ocean !"
Hugh Miller was at this time very much annoyed
at the leaders of the sect of which his newspaper
was the organ. "I see," says Dick, "that you are
not in heaven as to peace any more than I am. Yet
DUKNET HEAD : WEST FRONT — NEAR THE LIGHTHOUSE.
CHAP. xv. GOSPEL THEORIES. 233
I candidly say that it is very hard that you cannot
enjoy yourself for one day among the rocks, without
being assailed for it by ignorant W. W.'s be they clerical
or not. Great stir about tyrannical Popery at present ;
but query — may there not be among ourselves Moderate
Popes, Free Popes, and such like? Plenty, I guess.
The divine right of ruling is worth ten times the
stipend."
In acknowledging the receipt from Hugh Miller of
some papers containing an account of the meeting of the
British Association at Edinburgh, Dick says — " These
papers are not thrown away. They shall be duly
pondered and considered — ay, on mountain tops, even
at early dawn, or sober eve, when the twinkling stars and
the soothing winds tell their own tale of nature's happi-
ness in their own dear way.
" It is a blessed thing that creation smiles or frowns,
laughs or is sad, just as we are -content or otherwise.
Every man according to his ' gift.' Sooth to say, I am
one of those whose faith is too weak to see every one of
the many twinkling orbs that bedeck the vault of heaven
— the abodes of beings who suffer and of beings who
rejoice — of beings who are saved, and of beings who are
lost. No, no ! I have thrown Calvin's theory to the
winds. There are as many Gospel theories as there are
geological ; and all are at liberty to behold their own
likeness in their own mirror. Only one thing. If
divines have for centuries been preaching nonsense
about the creation of the world and of man, what con-
fidence can an ignorant man have in their findings and
234 HUGH MILLERS DEATH. CHAP. xv.
interpretations of other parts of the same writings,
equally full of interpretations, corrections, and amend-
ments ? I know what I say."
The correspondence proceeds at intervals, until the
death of Hugh Miller, which took place on the 24th
December 1856. He was then preparing the last sheets
of the Testimony of the, Rocks, which was published at
the beginning of 1857. Dick was of opinion that Hugh
Miller published the book quite as much to please the
dominant religious party in Scotland, as to satisfy the
convictions of his own mind. Indeed, he traced the
beginnings of Hugh Miller's insanity to the over-stimula-
tion of his brain, for the purpose of meeting the
exigencies of his position as a scientific man and a
religious journalist. Some time before the sad cata-
strophe of Hugh Miller's death, he mentioned to Pro-
fessor Shearer a curious symptom, indicative of com-
mencing insanity in this gifted man.
The following are Professor Shearer's words : — " I
had an interview with Mr. Dick in the inner shrine of
his daily labours — his bakehouse. This was considered
a high mark of his consideration ; and indeed his manner
was perfectly cordial and natural. Our conversation
naturally turned upon his friend Hugh Miller, then not
long dead, and to his books. His powerful and bril-
liant effort to reconcile the scriptural account of creation
with geological science, Mr. Dick considered a failure.
At the same time, he strongly maintained the doctrine
of successive creations of animated beings, though he
appeared to have no confidence in the Darwinian doc-
THE FAIRIES." 235
trine of development. Pointing to the sketches of the
Greek boy and the ape on the walls, he asked, ' whether
that could come out of this ?'
" Returning to Hugh Miller, I naturally expressed my
sorrow that a life so brilliant and valuable as that
described in his Schools and Schoolmasters, should have
ended so sadly. ' Ah, poor Hugh !' said he, ' I knew him
well. His life, as he could write it, would be as interest-
ing as a romance. But I am not at all astonished at the
way it ended. His mind was touched somehow by
superstition. I mind,' he continued, ' after an after-
noon's work on the rocks together at Holborn Head, we
sat down on the leeside of a dyke to look over our spe-
cimens, when suddenly up jumped Hugh, exclaiming,
' The fairies have got hold of my trousers ! ' and then
sitting down again, he kept rubbing his legs for a long
time. It was of no use suggesting that an ant or some
other well-known ' beastie' had got there. Hugh would
have it that it was ' the fairies ' ! " *
" When the news of Hugh Miller's death came," said
Dick to his sister, " I thought it was the end of all
things. I was more shocked than I could tell to
anybody. Poor Hugh ! I knew him so well ! I shall
always remember him. Indeed, he is now, and almost
always, with me. I cannot look on a stone without
thinking of him. I am not likely ever to forget him.
He was sorely afflicted with his head while he was
* Hugh Miller wrote a good deal about the fairies in his works.
See his description of the Fairies of the Ravine of Eathie, in Old
Red Sandstone, pp. 221-2, Ed. 1875.
236 " TESTIMONY OF THE ROCKS." CHAP. xv.
here, and to such a degree that neither you nor I can
form any idea of his sufferings. Peace to him! He
will live long over all the earth."
Again writing to his sister, he says, " Mrs. Miller has
sent me Hugh's last Testimony of the Hocks. I have
read it frequently. It contains a great deal of good
writing ; but it leaves the great point as far from being
settled as ever. I am surprised at his mode of handling
the two records — the account of creation in Genesis,
and the facts as we actually find them; for it is an
undeniable fact that all our present dry lands are full
of dead animals. But don't mistake me. Mr. Miller
has produced an unmistakably clever book, which will
sell fast and become popular. But it does not solve the
great problem ; neither is it in harmony with the
account of creation recorded in the oldest book extant.
Nor will it convert geologists, and satisfy those who
know anything about rocks and organic remains.
" Possibly the business cannot be settled in the
present stage of discovery, and friend Hugh had rather
too much veneration for sundry great living men, to strike
out a new path amid such an entangling forest of con-
flicting opinions. Of one thing you may be sure. The
earth, as we have it, was not made in six ordinary days.
The earth is making yet. It is still in course of creation."
Strange to say, when the Life of Hugh Miller came
out, not a word was said about Eobert Dick. The
two had been in communication for more than ten years.
Dick returned to Mrs. Miller all the letters he had
received from her husband, for the purposes of the bio-
CHAP. xv. BIOGRAPHY OF HUGH MILLER. 237
graphy; and more than a hundred of Dick's letters
were in the possession of the biographer. Dick had
given all his best fossils to Miller. " He robbed him-
self," said Hugh Miller, "to do me service." Dick
worked night and day to enable him to illustrate his
works by new specimens. One would have thought
that these services were worthy of some mention in
Hugh Miller's biography. But not a word is said there
ts to Hugh's greatest helper.
CHAPTEE XVI.
CHARLES W. PEACH, A.L.S.
WHILE Bobert Dick was searching for organic remains
among the rocks at Thurso during his leisure hours,
another scientific labourer was occupied in the same
manner at the opposite end of the island, among the
rocks of Cornwall. Eobert Dick had discovered numer-
ous remains of fossil fishes in Caithness, where distin-
guished geologists had stated that no fossil fishes were
to be found ; and Charles William Peach had discovered
fossil fishes in Cornwall, though it had also been stated
that the rocks there were non-fossiliferous. While the
one was disturbing the echoes of Pudding-gyoe, the other
was hammering in Heady-Money Cove. The two were
working simultaneously amongst rocks of the same
epoch, and the results of their labours were in a remark-
able degree alike.
The Cornish worker in science was then but a private
in the mounted coastguard service. Like Dick, in his
hours of leisure he found time to add materially to the
facts upon which geology is based. Thus, at the same
time, Hugh Miller, originally a stonemason, — Eobert
Dick, a working baker, — and Charles William Peach, a
private in the coastguard service, — were all engaged
CHARLES W. PEACH, A.L.S.
STORY OF MR. PEACH. 239
in like pursuits. " It is one of the circumstances of
peculiar interest," said Hugh Miller, " with which geology
in its present state is invested, that there is no man
of energy and observation, who may not rationally in-
dulge in the hope of extending its limits, by adding to
its facts."
While engaged in their respective pursuits, Dick and
Peach were quite unknown to each other. They worked
on quietly and unostentatiously, without any thought of
fame. It might be said that theirs was " the pursuit of
knowledge under difficulties." But this is a mistake.
The pursuit of knowledge is always accompanied with
pleasure, and the pleasure is only enhanced by the diffi-
culties with which it is surmounted.
But circumstances shortly occurred which led to Mr.
Peach's promotion in the service, and to his removal to
the north — first to Peterhead and afterwards to Wick.
Then it was that Dick and Peach became the most inti-
mate of friends. For this reason it is perhaps appropriate
to couple the portrait of the one friend with that of the
other, — not only because their pursuits during their
leisure moments were in a great measure the same ; but
because it serves as an introduction to the correspond-
ence which follows.
Mr. Peach has told us the story of his life. We
think it full of interest. It shows what a man in even
the humblest ranks of life may do, to accumulate know-
ledge and to advance science for the benefit of his
fellow-creatures.
Mr. Peach was born in September 1800, at the village
240
WANS FORD, NO'l TS.
of Wansford in Northamptonshire. At the time of his
birth, his father was a saddler and harness-maker, but
he afterwards gave up the business and took a small
inn in the village, and also farmed about eighty acres of
land. The time came when young Peach had to be sent
to school. He first went to a dame's school, where he
speedily learned the ABC. After that he was sent to
WANSFORD, NORTHAMPTONSHIRE.
the village school, the master of which had been an old
sawyer. The man could no longer saw, but it was thought
he might teach. In those days any worn-out broken-
legged man was thought good enough to be a school-
master. The old sawyer knew very little about spelling.
There was not a grammar-book about the school.
But as old Mr. Peach was anxious to make his son a
scholar, Charles was taken from the old sawyer's school
at twelve years old, and sent to a school at Folkingham,
in Lincolnshire. There he made better progress. He
CHAP. xvi. A RIDING OFFICER. 241
learnt to read and write well ; and he laid the founda-
tions of the ordinary branches of education. He re-
mained at this place for three years, and at the age of
fifteen he left school altogether.
He returned to his father's house to help in the work
of the inn, and to assist in the labours of the farm. It
was not a very good training for a lad. Peach was
brought into contact with the people who frequented
his father's inn. Wansford was then a very drunken
village. Peach was often invited to drink, but always
refused, — a proof of moral courage at an early age. He
was consequently called "the milksop" of the house.
Perhaps from what he daily saw before him, he deter-
mined to abstain from drink. In this way the Spartans
taught their children. At all events, though reared
in an inn, Peach abstained from liquor for the rest of
his life.
Not liking his position at home, Charles applied for
the position of riding officer in the Eevenue Coast-
guard. He was appointed in January 1824, and
directed to proceed to Southrepps, in the county of Nor-
folk, and report himself to the commanding officer there.
After approval, he was directed to take up his station
at Weybourn, in the port of Cley, Norfolk.
At that tune Peach knew nothing of Natural History.
He had never seen the sea. What a sight, and hov/ full
of wonders, it was to him ! He was struck with every-
thing connected with it. He wandered along the shore,
and found brilliant seaweeds and zoophytes innumer-
able, the names of which he did not yet know. He
242 IMPRESSED BY A ZOOPHYTE. CHAP. xvi.
was particularly impressed by a splendid specimen,
which was placed on the parlour chimney-piece of
the little inn where he stayed at.* The appearance
of the zoophyte strongly excited his curiosity. He
determined to know what it was, and where he could
find a specimen for himself. This little object had the
effect of turning his attention to the study of Nature.
He began to make a collection. He had no book on
the subject. He collected, more for the beauty of the
forms and the colours of the agates. He would know
more by and by. Men in the Coastguard service were
in those days turned rapidly about from place to place,
for no particular reason, but generally at considerable
expense to themselves. After being at Weybourn for
a year, Peach was removed to Sherringham, also in
Norfolk.
It was while at this station that he met the Eev. J.
Layton, then living at Catfield. The reverend gentle-
man, finding that Peach was an enthusiastic collector of
zoophytes, asked him if he should not like to know the
names of the objects he collected. " Certainly," was the
reply. The clergyman then invited him to his house,
and showed him a book containing the history of British
zoophytes. He was delighted with the book ; but, as it
was expensive, and he could not purchase it, he went
boldly to work, and copied out the greater part of the
* It proved to be the Antennularia antennina. The description of
this zoophyte is accompanied by a brief sketch of Mr. Peach's career,
in the second edition of Dr. Johnston's work on The British Zoophytes,
p. 86, Ed. 1847.
CHAP. xvi. CHANGES OF STATION. 243
letterpress. Although he had never had a lesson in
drawing, he also endeavoured, to the best of his power,
to copy out all the engravings. By this and other
means, he laid the foundations of a great deal of know-
ledge of the lower forms of marine life, while carrying
on his humble office of mounted guard in the Eevenue
service along the northern coast of Norfolk.
His business was to look after smugglers, and pre-
vent them landing their illicit goods at any part of the
coast. His work was done partly at night and partly
by day. He must be constantly on the alert. The
mounted guard were not allowed to remain long in one
place. After remaining at Sherringham for about two
years, Peach was removed to Hasboro. After a year's
service there, he was sent to Cromer ; then from Cromer
back to Cley, where he remained for two years. Here
he married, and entered upon a new career, that of
bringing up a family on small wages. But he met
every difficulty cheerfully. He was fond of home life,
and his wife helped to make his home happy.
At Cley he was placed in charge of the station. He
superintended the look-out after smugglers, and he
did his duty carefully. Notwithstanding this, he was once
charged with having neglected it. A jack-in-office, an
Irish naval captain in command of the coast service
there, assembled the Coastguard before him, and charged
them all with being bribed by the smugglers. Peach
was justly indignant. He protested for himself and on
the part of his men that they were loyal and honest
servants of her Majesty, and he challenged the captain
244 GORRANHA VEN. CHAP. xvi.
to prove his words. The captain could not ; and accord-
ingly, after a little hard swearing, he drew in his horns,
and said no more on the subject.
It may here be mentioned that Mr. Peach was a
handy man at everything. He learnt to draw with cor-
rectness. He cultivated mechanics. When he went into
the Coastguard, he spent part of his spare time in making
a turning-lathe. With this he turned jet earrings, jet
boxes, and other things. He afterwards made a com-
pound slide-rest, and turned things in iron and brass.
After two years' service at Cley, Peach was sent to
Lyme Eegis in Dorset, at the south-western part of the
island. He then lived at Charmouth, but he remained
there only four or five months, when he was removed to
Beer, at the mouth of the Axe, in Devonshire. He
remained there for about two years, always working in
his leisure hours at zoology and natural history.
He was then removed to Paignton in Tor Bay, farther
down the coast. He was not allowed to rest there,
but was shortly after removed to Gorranhaven, near
Mevagissey, in Cornwall. It was here that he indefati-
gably pursued his studies in zoology. He collected
some of the most delicate specimens of marine fauna.
Many of these he sent to Dr. Johnston when preparing
his history of the British Zoophytes. Others were sent
to the most distinguished writers on zoology, and
several of them were called after his name.*
It was while living at Gorranhaven that Peach
* The Isodictyia Peachii, Membranipora Peachii, Lipralia Peachi\
Cellularia Peachii, Peachii hastata, and Eolis Peachii.
CHAP. xvi. THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION. 245
applied himself to a new subject, — the geological forma-
tion of the coast. It had been stated by well-known
geologists that no relics of ancient life existed in the
Cornish rocks. "We have no exuviae," said Pryce,
" of land or sea animals buried in our strata." " The
rocks of Cornwall and of Scotland are non-fossiliferous,"
said Dean Conybeare. The same statement was repeated
by many writers, and amongst others by Sir Eoderick
Murchison, who took the statement on trust. In fact,
geology was then in its infancy. During the last fifty
years, nearly everything has been changed.
The private in the mounted Coastguard service did a
great deal to alter the then state of geology. He was
not satisfied with the statements of others. He examined
for himself. He had the quick eye and the keen judg-
ment. He possessed the gift of careful observation.
Nor was he ever daunted by difficulties. In fair weather
and in foul, he worked among the Cornish rocks, and
found fossils where no fossils were said to have been —
fossils innumerable !
Mr. Peach was not the man to let his light lie hid
under a bushel. A meeting of the British Association
was about to be held at Plymouth. Plymouth was not
far from the place where he lived, and he determined to
put his facts together, and read them before the associa-
tion. He never wrote a paper before, nor had he ever
read one. He had only heard one scientific lecture. But
with his ready mother wit he prepared his paper, and
it proved to be a thoroughly original one. He read it
himself at the Plymouth meeting in 1841. It was
entitled, On the Organic Fossils of Cornwall
12
246 READS MANY PAPERS. CHAP. xvi.
" It is impossible," he writes in 1847, " to describe
the feelings under which I then rose. That is over long
since. The only beating of my heart now about the
British Association is, that of gratitude towards its
members, and of affection for their great kindness. I
feel my love of scientific pursuits strengthen every day.
I have taken hold of that which every day affords ' a
feast of reason and a flow of soul.'"
In the following year (1842) he attended the meeting
of the British Association at Manchester, where he read
a paper before the Zoological section on his discoveries
and observations of the marine fauna on the Cornish
coast. In 1843 he attended the meeting at Cork, and
in 1844 he was at York. He never went without a
paper. Sometimes he read several. Men of distinction
began to notice this remarkable coastguardsman. He was
acknowledged to be one of the most original discoverers
in geology and zoology. Such men as Murchison, De
la Beche, Buckland, Forbes, Daubeny, and Agassiz,
took him by the hand and greeted him as a fellow
labourer in the work of human improvement and scien-
tific development.
Dr. Eobert Chambers was present at the York meet-
ing. He wrote a very interesting article on the subject,
which appeared in Chambers's Journal of November
23, 1844. Here is his description of Mr. Peach: —
"But who is that little intelligent-looking man in a
faded naval uniform, who is so invariably seen in a
particular central seat in this section ? That is perhaps
one of the most interesting men who attend the associa-
CHAP. xvi. DR. CHAMBERS'1 ACCOUNT. 247
tion. He is only a private in the mounted guard
(preventive service) at an obscure part of the Cornish
coast, with four shillings a day, and a wife and seven
children, most of whose education he has himself to
conduct. He never tastes the luxuries which are so
common in the middle ranks of life, and even amongst
a large portion of the working classes. He has to mend
with his own hands every sort of thing that can wear or
break in his house. Yet Charles Peach is a votary of
natural history — not a student of the science in books,
for he cannot afford books ; but he is a diligent investi-
gator by sea and shore, a collector of zoophytes and
echinodermata — strange creatures, many of which are
as yet hardly known to man. These he collects, pre-
serves, and describes ; and every year he comes up to
the British Association with a few novelties of this
kind, accompanied by illustrative papers and drawings
thus, under circumstances the very opposite of such
men as Lord Enniskillen, adding, in like manner, to the
general stock of knowledge.
" On the present occasion he is unusually elated, for
he has made the discovery of a holothuria with twenty
tentacula, a species of the echinodermata, which Edward
Forbes, in his book on Starfishes, had said was never
yet observed in the British seas. It may be of small
moment to you, who perhaps know nothing of holo-
thurias, but it is a considerable thing to the fauna of
Britain,* and a vast matter to a poor private of the
* About thirty years after the meeting at York, the Neill Prize
Gold Medal was presented to Mr. Peach by the Royal Society of Edia-
248 BUYS A MICROSCOPE. CHAP. xvi.
Cornwall Mounted Guard. And accordingly he will go
home in a few days, full of the glory of his exhibition,
and strung anew by the kind notice taken of him by
the masters of science, to proceed in similar inquiries,
difficult as it may be to prosecute them under such a
complication of duties, professional and domestic.
" But he has still another subject of congratulation ;
for Dr. Carpenter has kindly given him a microscope,*
wherewith to observe the structure of his favourite
animals, — an instrument for which he has sighed for
many years in vain. Honest Peach ! humble as is thy
name and simple thy learning, thou art an honour even
to this assemblage of nobles and doctors ; nay more,
when I consider everything, thou art an honour to
human nature itself; for where is the heroism like that
of virtuous, intelligent, independent poverty ? and such
heroism is thine ! "
burgh. On that occasion, Professor Geikie said — "Somewhere about
twenty species of marine fauna, and several genera of sponges, were
first made known by him as denizens of British seas. He has consider-
ably augmented our list of native hydrozoa and polyzoa. The naked-
eyed Medusae owe not a little to his attention, and one genus of them
(Staurophora) was first introduced by him to the naturalists of this
country. The Echinodenns, too, are under similar obligations to him,
for, besides bringing several new species to light, he found the huge
Echinus mtlo of the Mediterranean on the coast of Cornwall, and sup-
plied the twenty-armed Holothuria nigra to fill up the blank pointed
rut by Edward Forbes among the British Holothuriae. " — Proceedings
v/the Royal Society of Edinburgh, 5th April 1875.
* This is a mistake. The microscope was not given by Dr. Car-
penter, but he kindly superintended its fitting up. Mr. Peach obtained
the money to purchase it, by superintending and adding to the col-
lections of Natural History at the Polytechnic Institution of Falmouth
CHAP. xvi. LANDING WAITER AT FOWEY. 249
Some of the gentlemen who attended the meeting at
York, and especially Dr. Buckland, in their admiration
for the character of Mr. Peach, proposed to do some-
thing for his promotion in her Majesty's service. Dr.
Buckland wrote to Sir Robert Peel on the subject. The
reply was, that there were no openings at the time, but
that the application of Dr. Buckland on behalf of Mr.
CHARLES PEACH'S HOUSE, FOWEY.
Peach should be kept in mind. At length the pro-
motion came. A position of Landing Waiter was
vacant at London, and another at Fowey. Mr. Peach
preterred the latter, though the salary was £50 less.
He desired to remain in his quarters by the sea-coast,
to carry on his investigations among the zoophytes, and
to further examine the rocks of Cornwall at his leisure.
His salary was now £100 a year ; and the advance of
pay greatly helped him and hi» family. He removed
250 ENRICHES CORNISH COLLECTIONS. CHAP. xvi.
to a pretty house overlooking the river Fowey and the
English Channel, and at this house Mr. Tennyson, the
Poet Laureate, was a frequent visitor.
While residing at Fowey, Mr. Peach became an
honorary member of all the scientific societies in Corn-
wall. But he was far more than an honorary member.
He greatly enriched their collections. He added many
organic remains of the Devonian Eocks to the admirable
collection of the Eoyal Geological Society of Cornwall.
Indeed, the collection seems to have remained as Mr.
Peach left it, some thirty years ago. The President of
the Society, at the meeting in 1877, thus referred to the
museum at Penzance : — " Our collection contains Devon-
ian forms from the lower, middle, and upper series, in
most of those areas in the counties of Cornwall and
Devon, where the rocks are exposed. It must be allowed
that it is essential to the credit and future history of the
Society that this, of all groups of rocks and associated
fossils, should be well, if not perfectly, represented in the
museum. The collection, as it now stands, is in the
main due to the energy and industry of Mr. Charles
Peach, A.L.S., one of our oldest living naturalists, who
for many years resided on the south coast of Cornwall,
there making a special study of the coast sections, and
who extensively collected from them, especially at East
and West Looe, Polperro, Polruan, and Fowey. This
truly great collection is now displayed in the cases of
our Society, and has been but little added to since, — a
circumstance especially to be regretted, when we take
into consideration the great amount of work and re-
CHAP. xvi. KKMOWZS TO PETEKHEAD. 251
search that has been done and carried on in foreign
countries."*
As constant movement from place to place seems tc
be the rule of the Bevenue Service, Mr. Peach left Fowey
in 1849; and this time he was sent to a far-distant
place — to Peterhead, in the north-east of Scotland. The
removal cost him a great deal of money. His own
expenses were paid, but he had to remove his wife and
family at his own expense. Yet it was a promotion in
the service. He was now Comptroller of Customs. The
dignity of the appellation was much greater than the
advance of salary, which was only £20 a year. Still
it was a promotion, and it might lead to better fortune.
At Peterhead, as in Norfolk, Devonshire, and Corn-
wall, Mr. Peach went on with his study of zoology
and geology. He added to the list of British fishes,
Yarrell's Blenny, Eay's Bream, and the Anchovy, —
which had not before been known to inhabit the seas
which wash the north-eastern coast of Scotland. He
also devoted much attention to the nest-building habits
of certain sea shells and fishes. " At Peterhead," says Pro-
fessor Geikie, " he made himself intimately acquainted
with the family arrangements of that rather fierce-
looking little fish, the fifteen-spined stickle-back (Gaster-
osteus spinachia). In a rocky pool he discovered a
colony of them, and learnt how they built their nests
and deposited their ova. He watched the hatching
and growth of the young until the whole colony, young
* Sixty -Fourth Annual Report of the Royal Geological Society yf
Cornwall. President's Address, p. xix. Plymouth, 1877.
252 REMOVES TO WICK. CHAP. xvi.
and old, took to the sea. As he used to visit them
five or six times a day, the parents grew so familiar
that they would swim round and touch his hand,
though on the appearance of a stranger they would
angrily dash at any stick or incautious finger that
was brought near them. The same habit of close and
cultivated observation was shown by his study of the
maternal instincts of the female lobster in its native
haunts."*
Mr. Peach's next removal was to Wick, — the greatest
fishing town in the North, Though an ardent lover of
nature, he never neglected his duty. He was as accurate
and quick-sighted in business as in science. He was alike
shrewd, wise, and observant in both. He was the model of
a Comptroller of Customs, as he was of a true coEector
and naturalist. His removal to Wick was a promotion.
His salary was advanced to £150 a year, though his
duties were to a certain extent enlarged. Part of his
work consisted in travelling round the coast of Caithness
in search of wrecks, and reporting them to the Board of
Trade. This led him to travel to the rocky points of
the coast, where the wrecks principally occurred ; and
he made good use of his spare time by hammering the
rocks in search of fossils, and more particularly the fossil
plants with which the dark flagstones of the district
abounded.
His removal to Wick occurred in 1853. One of the
first things that he did was to travel across the county
* Proceedings of the Royal Society of Edinburgh, Session 1874-5, p
511.
CHAP. xvi. VISITS DICK AT THURSO. 253
to pay a visit to Kobert Dick at Thurso. While he
resided in Cornwall, the name of Eobert Dick had been
a household word with him. He knew what he had done
from Hugh Miller's writings, and he had no doubt that
he would find Dick to be a man after his own heart.
Kor was he disappointed. When he first called at
Dick's shop in Wilson's Lane, on the 19th October 1853,
he found that the " maister," as his servant called him,
was in the bakehouse. The caller sent in his name, and
the baker speedily appeared in the front shop, his shirt
sleeves rolled up, and his arms covered with flour.
" I'm Charles Peach of Ready Money Cove in Corn-
wall ; and you are Robert Dick of Pudding Goe." That
was Mr. Peach's first introduction. "How are ye?"
answered Robert Dick, with a firm grasp of the hand ;
" come into the bakehouse !" That was an honour
accorded to few, but in the case of a renowned geolo-
gist it was readily granted. Dick went on with his
work at the oven mouth, or at the side of the dough,
while the two talked together. It was an interesting
conversation, which Mr. Peach long remembered. The
latter observed on the wall of the bakehouse a full-sized
sketch of the Greek boy taking the thorn from his foot,
with an Egyptian god on each side, — all accurately done
in pencil or charcoal by the Thurso baker.
Mr. Peach called again in the evening, and again
found Dick at the oven in the bakehouse. After he had
done his evening's work, he had a fire lighted in his
parlour, and took his new friend upstairs to see his
collection. Mr. Peach was first attracted by the fine
12*
254 REPEATED VISITS. CHAP. xvi.
busts of Sir Walter Scott and Lord Byron, and a large
plaster figure of the Venus of Milo, which the apartment
contained. Dick then showed his collection of fossils,
plants, ferns, and entomological specimens. Mr. Peach,
in an entry in his diary, written the same evening,
says — " He is a very diffident man, but an enthusiast in
natural history pursuits. He is unmarried, and lives
most retired. In fact, he is very little known in Thurso.
He has a nice collection of Caithness ferns, beetles, and
insects. He is deeply interested in botany. His
researches in geology have been great, especially in the
Old Eed Sandstone; and some of his specimens have
added new links to the history of these ancient rocks."
Mr. Peach soon repeated his visit. He called again
at the beginning of the following May, and again found
Dick very busy in his bakehouse. The fire was not
again lighted in the parlour. Peach was now regarded
as a friend. All the subsequent interviews between the
two occurred at the mouth of the oven, or in the kitchen,
or in the fields, or among the rocks. All ceremony and
formality were laid aside ; and although they had many
differences of opinion and stout debates, these were, like
lovers' quarrels, soon made up.
Mr. Peach entered the following passage in his diary,
descriptive of his second visit to Dick : — " 2d May 1854.
Rose early; called upon Mr. Dick; found him at his
oven, and very busy ; had a nice chat with him. ... In
the evening I saw him in his bedroom. What an
industrious man he is. He is through nineteen volumes
of plants, and hopes soon to finish his herbarium. He
CHAP. xvi. WALKS WITH DICK. 255
has heaps upon heaps of specimens, and appears to
thoroughly understand his subject. After two hours'
chat I left him to go to his bed, to which, if possible,
he retires at 9 P.M., to rise again between 3 and 4 A.M.
I have often been up and with him at that time, not
willing to lose time when I had an opportunity of enjoying
his society. His conversation was too precious to lose."
During the ensuing summer, when the grasses and
plants were in bloom, the two took a long walk up the
Thurso river. Dick pointed out to his friend the habi-
tat of the Holy Grass (Hierochloe borealis), which he had
long known; and also what was then called Drum-
mond's Horsetail (Equisetumpratense). Dick also pointed
out the Baltic rush (Juncus balticus), which Mr. Peach
had never before seen. Mr. Peach says of this walk,
that "Dick's cheerful manner, his sparkling wit, and
frolicsome playfulness, added to the other beauties of
the excursion, made it a treat indeed."
" My next visit to Thurso," says Mr. Peach, " occurred
in connection with a wreck, happily unattended with
loss of life. On this occasion, our first difference broke
out. The Old Eed Sandstone period was said to be one
of seaweeds and cartilaginous fish. That I felt to be
unstable, from specimens which I had picked up in my
spare minutes snatched from duty. We both defended
our views. He was strenuous in his defence of Hugh
Miller's and his own opinions, and although I felt a sad
heretic, I warnily, b,ut I hope modestly, suggested that
I might be right. Time has since proved that I was so,
and dear Dick set to working out the problem for him-
256 LOVERS' QUARRELS. CHAP. xvr.
self as usual, and at last he came to the same conclusion
that 1 had done. I have just found a note in reply to
one of mine. After saying that he is ready to be my
pupil in seaweeds, zoophytes, and in every other depart-
ment of natural history, he adds, and ' even in fossil
wood ' * — a jocular allusion to our discussion on this
point."
Mr. Peach, in a recent letter, referring to the many
happy hours and tough battles fought in Dick's bake-
house, says that old Annie, the housekeeper, would
sometimes interfere, and say, " Eh, maister, ye're awfu'
hard wi' Mr. Peach ; he'll never come back again after
sic rough usage." But Peach came back as before. The
lovers' quarrels soon healed, and they were more affec-
tionate than ever. " I had the advantage," says Mr.
Peach, " in having read all that Hugh Miller had done,
and also many of Dick's letters on the same subject.
Besides, I had had lots of experience in Devonian and
Old Eed rocks in more places than Scotland. I had also
a mode of my own for collecting. I got all the weathered
and detached portions of fishes and plants, studied them,
and fitted them into more perfect specimens. But Dick
did much good service. He was fortunately in time to
* Hugh Miller, in his Testimony of the Rocks, refers to this fossil
wood as a " curious nondescript vegetable creation." He adds : — " I
have not hitherto succeeded in finding for myself specimens of this
organism, which has been named provisionally by Dr. Fleming Stroma
^biCKea ; but it seems not improbable that certain (supposed) fragments
of wood, detected by Mr. Charles Peach in the Caithness flagstones,
but which do not exhibit the woody structure, may have belong*^
to it"
CHAP. xvi. FOSSILS AT DURNESS. 257
reap the harvest. I only got his gleanings. But I
found for myself new fields of un worked rocks in Suther-
landshire, and got new fishes there, and also new ones
in the old fields that Dick had so long been working in.
I was very fortunate. My duties led me so far about,
and gave me many opportunities that I should not
otherwise have had ; whereas Dick was confined to the
neighbourhood of his bakehouse in Thurso. All this I
took advantage of, after duty had been done. By rising
early in the morning and working until late at night ; by
often giving up my meal times, and satisfying myself with
a crust of bread and butter, and at night with a Highland
tea and something to eat, I fortunately contrived to fill
up my leisure hours with a good deal of useful work."
The principal new field to which Mr. Peach refers,
was the limestone of Durness in Sutherland. The spot
was too far from Caithness to enable Dick to investigate
it. But it was in the Comptroller's way. He went to
Durness to visit a wrecked ship, and he did not neglect
his opportunity. He was the first to find fossils in the
limestones of Durness. Obscure organic remains had
before been detected by Macculloch in the quartz rocks
of Sutherland ; but they had gradually passed out of
mind, and their organic nature was stoutly denied even
by such geologists as Sedgwick and Murchison. Mr. Peach,
however, brought to light, in 1854, a good series of shells
and corals, which demonstrated the limestones containing
them to lie on the same geological horizon as some part
of the great Lower Silurian formations of other regions.*
* When Sir Roderick Murchison heard of this discovery, he wrote
258 RESULTS OF PEACH'S DISCOVERIES. CHAP. xvi.
The discovery remained without solution for some
years, the principal geologists still doubting its reality.
But about five years after, Sir Eoderick Murchison again
visited the spot, and the discovery was confirmed.
Professor Judd, of the Eoyal School of Mines, Jermyn
Street, London, said in the Geological Society's Quarterly
Journal that " Charles Peach's discovery in 1854 of
Silurian fossils at Durness, Sutherland, has already
borne the most important fruit ; and, in the hands of
Murchison, Eamsay, Geikie, Harkness, and Jamieson, has
afforded the necessary clue for determining the age of the
great primary masses of the Highlands of Scotland."
We have thus described the origin of the friendship
between Charles Peach and Eobert Dick. It strength-
ened as it grew. Charles Peach shared all Dick's
enthusiasm, and bore a warm and constant friendship
for the solitary student. They communicated to each
other, as all true labourers in science do, the results of
their respective discoveries. They kept up a regular
correspondence, and many of their communications with
each other will be found referred to in the following pages.
to his friend Professor Sedgwick : — " Yon have no doubt heard of the
discoveries of fossils in the Durness limestone of Sutherland by Peach.
He has corresponded with me on the point, and has sent me some of
the fossils. I have had them polished. The forms, rude and ill-pre-
served as they are, look more like Clymenise and Goniatites than any-
thing else, with corals ; and, if so, the calcareous masses which I saw
from Assynt to Durness, interstratified in the quartz rock, are high in
the Devonian. I would like to hear what you say to this tclairvisse-
ment I I see great difficulty in understanding it."— Professor Geikie'*
Life of Sir Eoderick I. Murchison, vol. ii. p. 195.
CHAPTER XVIL
ROBERT DICK AND CHARLES PEACH
A SUCCESSION of visits from Peach to Dick, and a long
correspondence between them, followed their first intro-
duction. Peach travelled a great deal, especially during
the shipwrecking season ; and when in the neighbourhood
of Thurso it was his invariable practice to call upon his
friend Dick. They communicated to each other all that
they had found since their last meeting, and they often
sent parcels of shells and fossils by the carrier's cart,
with numerous communications, to ask each other's
opinion about their special findings.
Shortly after Peach's first visit to Thurso, he found a
specimen of a new fossil fish which he thought allied to
the Dipterus. It was a bony fish. He consulted Dick
on the subject. Dick thought it very unusual ; and
" from the resemblance (he said) which it bears to the
vertebral column of the Coccosteus, fragments of which
are commonly attached to its buckler, I should, for my
part, have no hesitation in pronouncing it what you take
it to be.* Cartilage becomes petrified, and in some for-
mations cartilaginous fish are found. But your speci-
* For description of this bony fish see Decade X. Geological Survey,
Parts iv. v. p. 51.
260 EXCHANGE OF SHELLS. CHAP. xvn.
men shows as decidedly bony a structure as Coccosteus.
Your specimen is altogether new to me. I will take
good care of the fossil. ... I am in a tremendous hurry
of business to-day, but feel your kindness very much.
. . . Since you saw me here I have walked to Morven
top and back again to Thurso with little inconvenience.
I have since been at Scrabster hills, and intend being
at Duncansby Head very soon."
Dick and Peach also interchanged shells with each
other, though Dick said in one of his letters — " I do not
think that you require any information from me on
matters pertaining to this or any other study or research.
You are a bred veteran, and I am but a greenhorn."
Still, Dick would not give way on any point on which
he thought that he was right and Peach wrong. He
insisted that he was entitled to have his say, especially
where his own eyes were concerned. He did not believe
so much in books or in theories, but he believed in facts.
In one of Peach's enthusiastic letters he expresses
the hope that Dick is " revelling in the midst of the
beauties he has collected." To this Dick replies, " I
dinna ken. . . . You perhaps know the story of the
gentleman who returned from India with a black ser-
vant. One frosty morning the master went a-shooting,
and took the dark Oriental to beat the bushes. He was
rendered powerless by the cold. The master impatiently
demanded why he did not cry ' Hush, cock, hush.' ' Ah,
massa,' he tremulously replied, ' me wish hush cock had
never been born.' And so, Massa Peach, sometimes I
wish beauties had never been born. Not that there is
CHAP. xvii. THE MONK OF CAMERA Y. 261
too much loveliness in Nature ; but that the hunting for
objects of interest squeezes me so very confoundedly
that the wonder perhaps is, not that I do so little, but
rather that I manage to beat the bushes at all.
" The monk of Cambray ! — Yes, I think 'twas he,
The monk of Cambray was a wonderful man !
He turned his face to the northwards,
And, mutt'ring a prayer with Amen ! he began
Reading backwards instead of forwards !
" Exactly so ! And dull disciples in the school of Stones
too much resemble him. Whether from the effect or
defect of early training, when too much left to them-
selves, they soon fall back to their first ideas, and
monkishly read backwards. Our friend Hugh Miller
knew that I never fell in love with his peculiar views
on the order of creation ; and how he did me the
honour of enrolling me among the geological gods re-
mains a mystery to this day. I suspect that, just before
pushing me in, he had been consulting the Apostle
Paul, who says — ' Him that is weak in the faith receive
ye ; ' but then he adds, ' Not to doubtful disputations.'
Ah ! there's the rub ! I am a sad mule. What then ?
Every one according to his gift. Conviction must pre-
cede conversion.
" All that lived during the deposition of the Old Eed
Sandstone has not been preserved. What has been pre-
served has not been found. What has been found is
understood very imperfectly. No geologist has said that
all that lived during the deposition of the Silurian, the
Old Ked, Carboniferous, and other formations, has been
262 A PATCHWORK CREATION. CHAP. xvn.
preserved. They rather allow that not a tithe, not a
fractional part, has been petrified and preserved. And
how do they know that this earth had not once a habit-
able surface capable of accommodating the whole of
them ? all that has become extinct, and all that still
survives ? . . . I have not the least doubt that had Sir
Charles (Lyell), Sir Roderick (Murchison), Agassiz, or
Hugh Miller, taken a fancy to work out the notion, they
might have given us a habitable surface capable of
accommodating all that lives with all that is extinct,
and thus saved us the necessity of swallowing that, to
me at least, unpalatable thing, a patchwork creation — a
system of odds and ends, of clippings and parings. I
cannot believe that this earth ever saw a creation but
one. Much has become extinct I allow, but much is
supposed to be extinct which is not extinct.
" I grant that chronology is corrupt. I grant that the
earth is much older than was at one time thought ; and
that our habitable surface was not made in a day, or in
a week, or by a word ; but I cannot accept the order ot
creation that geologists have carved out for me. The
arguments of geologists, like disturbed strata, have a
peculiar dip, and a strike, by which you can easily dis-
tinguish the school of the reasoner.
"And what means all this palaver? I am simply
provoked by the old monkish trick of reading backwards
instead of forwards. This is a land of liberty, and I
nvail myself of the privilege of resting and waiting for
further light."
Such were Dick's views at the beginning of 1854
CHAP. xvn. FOSSIL WOOD.
About the same time, he wrote to Hugh Miller, " Do
you know, I am often accused of bearing an ill-will to
geologists ! When I think them at fault, and am asked
to speak, I merely speak what I think to be the truth.
Mr. John Miller here has got Murchison's thirty-
shilling book, and handed it to me to look at. Well,
unfortunate fellow that I am, I saw that Sir Roderick
was entirely wrong in saying that Cyclas was confined tc
the uppermost beds of the Old Eed. I told him so, and
he, as usual, thought that I was doing injury, and what
not, to geology ! Poof ! poof ! In what respect was I
a gainer or Murchison a loser ? Instead of being angry,
you geologists should be pleased, as it shows that we
pay attention to what you say."
Mr. Peach went to the meeting of the British Associa-
tion at Liverpool in September 1854 ; and there he
read his paper as usual. On this occasion he recorded
his observations on " The Eemains of Sand Plants and
Shells in the Old Eed Sandstone of Caithness." On his
return to Wick, Dick wrote to him, and asked, " What
did you say about the fossil wood ? Tell me also about
the shells." It may be mentioned that there was a long
discussion between the two geologists about fossil wood.
Dick was of opinion that the stuff which Peach had
found in Caithness was "concretionary bituminous
matter, and not organic." " But I am anxious," he says,
" that my opinion about the matter should not retard the
progress of discovery. I may be wrong, as I have been
before. Professor Forbes described the fossil wood to
be 'chert/ and 'masses without structure.' If I an
264 BOTANICAL COLLECTION. CHAP. xvn.
wrong," said Dick, " men of mark have been wrong • men
of repute, though I am of none."
In the meantime, Peach sent Dick specimens of
fossils and plants. One of these was found near Wick,
the Tectura testudinalis — a mollusc. Another was a
Cornish heath — the Erica vagans. Of the latter Dick
said, " I am very much obliged to you for it; and
as my plants and I do not mean to separate while
life lasts, I shall have a memorial of you, and I hope a
proper sense of your kindness, each time that I examine
it. ... 'Tis a pity I have no other rarity, but I will
give you a few grasses — a little brownish, and not so
good as your last one."
Dick again refers to his botanical collection.
" Every moment of my spare time is devoted to the
labelling of my papers, and attaching dried plants to
them. Thanks be praised, it is nearly over, and the
roughest work is done. All the plants are gummed
down, and the craving for a completion stirs me anew.
How they are to come is a mystery, but then hope
never fails me. . . . Your first favour of a mistletoe is
in its appointed place, and the present addition you have
sent is equally welcome. You may rely upon it, you
bestow the specimen on one whose very life is bound up
with those things ; and I can in all sincerity say :
" For them I panted, them I priz'd
For them I've gladly sacrificed
Whate'er I lov'd before ;
And shall I see them sacrificed ?
*Na, na, man. Many thousand thanks to you. My
CHAP. xvii. EXCHANGE OF SPECIMENS. 265
friends are few, and I get on slowly. However, that
English gentleman spoke, not long ago, very kindly tc
me ; and if all goes well with him and me for a short
time, ' I'll cock my bonnet fu' braw.' He is a thorough
botanist."
The English gentleman referred to was Mr. W. L.
Notcutt, then residing at Fakenham, Norfolk. He had
asked Dick to send him a collection of the Old Eed
fossils of Caithness ; offering his botanical services in
return. Dick cheerfully complied with his request, and
Mr. Notcutt acknowledges "most cordially his noble
suite of fossil fish from the Old Eed Sandstone." " There
are no fossils I more wished for," he says, " than some
specimens from your ancient strata, and your kindness
has indeed furnished me with a magnificent collection.
... I fancy your creed in natural history is somewhat
akin to my own. I make very free in asking help from
brother naturalists, and I am never better pleased than
to be made quite as free use of in return. Indeed, I
think the very character of our pursuits almost claims
the free interchange of such help ; for, unless one is
possessed of an independent property, the amount of
travelling necessary for the examination of the produc-
tions or geological deposits of distant parts of our land
is otherwise an impossibility."
Mr. Notcutt accordingly added largely to Eobert
Dick's botanical collection. He sent him additions from
year to year, until he had almost finally completed his
collection ; Dick, at the same time, furnishing him with
examples of the grasses and plants growing in the
county of Caithness.
266 DICK'S CORRESPONDENCE. CHAP. xvu.
Robert Dick received numerous letters from men of
distinction, requesting specimens of the Holy Grass which
he had discovered on the banks of the river Thurso.
Professor Balfour wrote to him in 1854, requesting roots
of the plant for the Botanical Garden at Edinburgh.
Dr. Allman, then professor of Natural History at Edin-
burgh, and now president of the Linnean Society,
requested specimens of the fossil fish for the University
Museum. Letters flowed in from Perth, from Aberdeen,
from Glasgow, from various places in England and
Ireland, requesting specimens of the Holy Grass, of shells,
and of fossil remains. Among his correspondents
we find the names of the Rev. Mr. Brodie, of the
Vicarage, Rowington, near Warwick; Mr. Backhouse, of
York ; and Professor Babington, of Cambridge. Many
of these were made known to Dick through his friend
Charles Peach.
The correspondence with Mr. Peach continues : " I
am sold," says Dick, " body and soul, to dried plants, not
fossil ones; — no breaking of stones or anything else for me,
but the drudge of self-denying determination. . . . Who
was it that wished he was a tailor, for then he might
sometimes get a holiday? Ay, Mr. Peach, plants are
plants, and stones are stones indeed, to those who gape
and gasp to get a mouthful of fresh air. But man was
born to struggle and to endure."
Unfortunately, Dick's health began to fail. He
complained of a rasping cough, and of rheumatism.
Though a strong-looking man, and in the prime of life
(for he was not yet fifty), he complains of pain — daily
CHAP. xvn. HIS COUNTRY WALKS. 267
pain. He says to his friend Peach that he is " suffering
the punishment of over-fatigue and confinement to the
house." He had no assistant in his daily labour — no
journeyman, no apprentice. All his work was done by
himself. And yet he continued his walks. " Like all
confined animals," he said, "when snuffing the caller
air, I become quite uproarious. A walk of twenty-six
miles is such a very fine thing."
But it is an awful thing in the North to take a walk
on a Sunday. The Thurso folks saw him going out and
coming in on that day, and they were very much shocked.
What could come of such a person? They began to
belabour him with tracts. These accumulated on his
hands so much, that he went to the oven one day, drew
the fire to the front of the grate, put in the bundle of
tracts, and pushed the burning coals back, thus con-
suming them to ashes.
A few years later, when Dr. Macleod raised such a
stir in the North by his observations as to the Judaical
observance of the Sabbath by his countrymen, Robert
Dick observed to his brother-in-law : — " I have got the
newspaper containing the uproar about Dr. Macleod,
and am much amused at what their reverences said.
They would, if they could, shut out the light. ' Donald,
man, Donald ! what is it that ye'll aye be shutting out
ta light ?' ' If ta tail pe brak, ye'll find that ! Very
good ; and all the noise, I fancy, is for fear that 'the tail
pe brak.'"*
* The allusion is to an anecdote of two expatriated Highlaudmen in
Canada, who went out to hunt for wild pigs. They found a litter in
268 A SUNDAY WALK. CHAP. xvii.
One Sunday morning, when wearied out with his
week's work, he went out to take a walk. He described
it in a letter to his friend Peach, written in the month
of July. He begins with the quotation : —
" ' God blames not him who toils six days in seven,
Where smoke and dust bedim the golden day,
If he delight beneath the dome of heaven
To see the clouds and hear the winds at play.'
"To-day," he said, "the wind blew hard, and as I
had been wearied with heat, sweat, and confinement
during the week, it struck me that a walk of about eight
miles up the country would do me good in every way.
"Well, I had got about eight miles out. Some
beautiful tufts of Erica Tetralix grew temptingly a few
paces off, along the high road. So, without a moment's
hesitation, I stepped aside among them, and, stooping
down, began pulling at them admiringly. From my
reverie of delight, amidst beauties blushing crimson, I
was suddenly startled by a rough voice accosting me in
Gaelic. I looked round, and saw one of the ugliest-
faced Highlanders that ever ' cam doon' staring wildly
at me. 'A blowy day,' said I. 'Ach, ach,' said he.
A brief silence ensued. 'Why are ye no at sermon?'
a cavern with a very .small entrance. The mother was out. One
Highlandman went in to slay the pigs ; the other kept watch outside.
The mother-pig, hearing the screams of her family, came up suddenly
and rushed into the hole. The Highlandman outside took fast hold
of the animal's tail, and held hard, occasionally using his dirk.
Hence the noise from the inside : " Donald, man, Donald ! what is it
that ye'll aye be shutting out ta light ? " and the answer from the out.
tiide was, " If ta tail pe brak, ye'll find that !"
CHAP. xvn. THE HIEtANDMAN. 269
he growled. ' Why are ye no at sermon yoursel?' I
replied. 'Eh?' said he; 'oo, ye see I maun mind the
beasts.' ' Well,' said I, ' we are very much alike. You
mind your beasts, and I mind this (holding up a piece
of the beautiful plant I had plucked). We have both
our reasons for what we are about.' 'Man!' he said
fiercely, 'ye're nae better than a beast, tae be looking
for grass on the Sawbath. The cattle there want reason,
which maybe you have.' ' Stop, my good fellow,' said
I ; ' the cattle look at the plants without seeing the
least beauty in them ; they pick out the grass here and
there to fill their bellies ; but I look at them for the
improvement of my mind.' 'Ach!' he grunted; and
then he roared, ' It's a sad thing for a man who has got
one wife already, to go a — — after another.' At this
coarse outburst I laughed loudly ; and after telling him
that I had got no wife at all, I suddenly walked away
and left the man with his beasts. I wonder what this
blind zealot would have done to me if he had the power.
The less we know, the more intolerant and tyrannical
we become. All the religious persecutions that we read
of are merely the result of ignorance, and of the cruelty
that comes of ignorance. I wonder whether that man
ever thinks of the words the Master he pretends to
serve once said to His disciples — ' Consider the lilies of
the field, how they grow ; they toil not, neither do they
spin ; and yet I say unto you, that even Solomon in all
his glory was not arrayed like one of these.'"
Amongst the numerous scientific men who sought
the acquaintance of Dick was the late Sir Eoderick
13
270 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. CHAP. xvn.
Murchison. He was appointed Director-General of the
Geological Survey and of the School of Mines in 1855,
and having been informed of the remarkable discoveries
made by Mr. Peach in the Durness limestone, he pro-
posed to make a journey in the north-west of Scotland
in the course of the same year. He started in August,
accompanied by Professor Nicol. They went by Inver-
ness, to Applecross, Gairloch, and Assynt. They went
northward to Durness and Tongue. It does not appear
that Sir Eoderick made any new discoveries on this
occasion ; field-geology was in the meantime at fault.
Professor Geikie, in his Life of Murchison; says that
" so far as respected any new light on the geology of
the north-west of Scotland, his excursion to Assynt
left matters very much as they were."*
When at Tongue, Sir Eoderick and Professor Nicol
drove across the country by the north coast to Thurso.
They were not then personally acquainted with Eobert
Dick, though they had often heard of him by name.
Professor Nicol first sought him out, and then he
took Sir Eoderick to his shop in Wilson's Lane. The
latter wished for some information from Dick as to the
localities where he had found certain Old Eed fossils.
Dick, however, was very busy with his batch at the
time ; he could not leave his bread to burn in the
oven, in order to give the necessary information. The
travellers were also in a hurry, as Sir Eoderick had
many other places to visit before the next meeting of
the British Association, which was to be held at Glasgow
in the beginning of September.
* Vol. ii. r. 205.
CHAP. xvir. REQUEST FOR FOSSILS.
271
Sir Roderick, however, did not forget the Thurso
baker-geologist and botanist. In May 1857 he wrote
to him from the Museum of Practical Geology in Jermyn
Street as follows : — " Dear Sir — Aware of the talent you
have evinced in collecting rare and good specimens of
the fossil fishes of the Caithness flags, and finding that
this establishment is very poor in such remains, I venture
DICK'S HOUSE, WILSON'S LANE.
to ask you to taKe some steps to supply us with a few
really good things in the ichthyic line. All cost of
extraction, as well as the full value of the fossils, would
be paid thankfully to the finders. Pray excuse the
freedom I use. I have no other means of endeavouring
to secure this desirable object."
Robert Dick acceded to the baronet's request. He
did not sell any of his fossils, but he sent the donation
272 DICK'S MAP OF CAITHNESS. CHAP. xvn.
of " a very fine specimen of Asterolepis," for which their
Lordships of the Committee of Privy Council of Educa-
tion sent Mr. Dick their best acknowledgments.
Sir Roderick Murchison was much more fortunate in
finding Dick at liberty on his next visit to Thurso.
Besides, he had Charles Peach with him, who soon made
everything smooth between the baronet and the baker.
They were both introduced to the bakehouse. It was
only Dick's intimate friends who were introduced to
that sanctum sanctorum. Dick was still in his working
clothes. A conversation took place about the dip of
certain rocks in Caithness. Sir Roderick complained of
the want of any sufficient map of the county. Here
Dick could chime in with him. In fact, he had wandered
over the whole length and breadth of the county, and
found that the existing maps were mere " bosh." " But if
you will permit me," he said, " I will endeavour to show
you a map of Caithness." "By all means," said the
baronet.
Taking up a few handfuls of flour, and spreading it
out on the baking board, Dick proceeded to mould a
model in relief of the geological structure of Caithness.
He showed all the principal features of the county — the
hills and dales, the rocks and cliffs, the dislocations and
fractures, the watersheds and the drainage, and, in fact,
an outline of the entire geography of the county. To
quote the words of Sir Roderick Murchisoii, "Mr.
Robert Dick directed my notice to the presence of
numerous powerful fractures and dislocations in the
flagstones ranging over Caithness, and which, to the
CHAP. xvn. A MAP MOULDED IN FLOUR. 273
superficial observer, seem to lie simply in undulations.
But to whatever extent these dislocations have occurred,
they never can be accurately defined until a correct map
of the county be executed, it being a melancholy fact,
that though easily capable of examination owing to the
slight elevation of the greater part of the county,
Caithness is probably the worst mapped county in
Scotland."*
Mr. Peach has also a pleasant recollection of the
interview. He says : " I felt it to be a great privilege
indeed to be present at the meeting of the baronet and
Dick in the bakehouse. It was a treat to me to see the
hills and dales, the rocks and cliffs, made up with flour,
and a likeness of Caithness moulded in relief by his
nimble fingers. He seemed to be familiar with every
foot of the county, every hill and dale, every movement
and flexure, every fracture and dislocation, and the
readiness and ease with which he communicated the
information greatly pleased and surprised the renowned
geologist ; and when he left the place he expressed his
delight and astonishment at the amount of information he
had received from the wonderful, though comparatively
unknown, baker of Thurso."
The conference between Sir Eoderick Murchison and
Dick lasted so long, that Peach says " he was so much
overcome by sleep, that he had a long nap while they
talked together." For Dick took the baronet up to his
museum, and showed him his collection of plants. Sii
Eoderick was as much surprised at his knowledge of
* Sir Roderick Murchison's Siluria. Fourth edition, p. 269.
274 THE OLD CHURCH. CHAP. xvn.
botany as of geology. He found that Dick had almost
exhausted the plants of Caithness, and that he was en-
gaged in making up a complete Herbarium, principally
by exchanging plants with other botanical collectors.
When the two geologists left Dick's shop, they went
to the flag yards over the river, for the purpose of obtain-
ing pieces of the Banniskirk flags for analysing. " We
THTJRSO KIVEB : THE OLD CHURCH.
got a boat," says Peach, " passed over the harbour, looked
at the Old Church, and felt much disgusted with the
Thurso people for leaving it roofless and allowing it to
go to decay."
Before he left Thurso Sir Koderick addressed Dick
in the following letter : — *
" My dear Mr. Dick — I cannot leave Thurso for the
Ultima Thule without thanking you sincerely for the
* 31st July 1858.
CHAP. xvn. MURCHISON AND PEACH. 275
information I have received from you respecting the
structure and succession of the Caithness deposits, and
for your very agreeable conversation, which was so
instructive as to the physical geology of these parts of
Scotland. Pray do not forget the old geologist who
wTOte upon Banniskirk fishes thirty-two years ago, and
who much desires to make a decent show of them in
the great National Museum of the Survey ; and in return
I promise you all the rarer British plants, which are to
be had by the zealous endeavours of — Yours most faith-
fully, EODERICK I. MURCHISON."
On the following day, Sir Eoderick and Mr. Peach
left Thurso for Stromness in the Orkneys, on the other
side of the Pentland Firth. They went to Kirkwall,
passing on their way the Standing Stones of Stennis,
the Orkney Stonehenge. On their way north, they
visited Sumburgh Head, and saw the Old Eed Sand-
stone of Caithness prolonged into the southern limb of
the Shetland Islands. Then to the northernmost island
of the group ; and finally the two geologists were
dropped by the steamer " Pharos," on its way south, on
the bleak headland of Cape Wrath. They proceeded to
visit the Durness limestone, where all that Peach had
already discovered was confirmed by the personal obser-
vation of Sir Eoderick. It was not until the end of
September that Mr. Peach reached Wick.
In the meantime, Sir Eoderick proceeded to Leeds,
where the next annual meeting of the British Association
was to be held. There he laid before the geological
276 SJK RODERICK'S PAPER. CHAP, xvu
section " The Results of his Researches among the older
rocks of the Scottish Highlands." He did full justice
to Mr. Peach's discovery of organic remains of the
Lower Silurian age in the crystalline limestone of
Sutherland ; similar to those which occur in the Lower
Silurian rocks of North America. Sir Roderick also said
in his paper, that as regarded the ichthyolitic flagstones
of Caithness, " he had made various interesting additions
to his former knowledge, particularly as derived from
the researches of Mr. Robert Dick of Thurso."*
But Sir Roderick made further mention of Robert
Dick at the public meeting held in the Leeds Town Hall
on the 29th of September 1858. In fact, his eulogium
of Dick constituted the principal part of his address.
We have already given part of it in the preface to this
book, and need not here repeat it. Sir Roderick con-
cluded his speech by saying that he had referred to the
facts relating to the marvellous knowledge acquired by
this humble working baker of Thurso, "in order that
the audience might deduce a practical application."
Mr. Peach immediately sent to his friend at Thurso
the newspaper in which the report of Sir Roderick
Murchison's speech appeared, and he also congratulated
Dick upon the cordial manner in which the baronet had
referred to his scientific knowledge. Dick, as we shall
afterwards find, did not think so much of the speech as
Peach did ; but, after about fifteen minutes' deliberation,
he scribbled off the following stanzas, and sent them to
Charles Peach as his answer. Peach sent the verses to
* See Leeds Meeting of the British Association, 1858.
CHAP. xvn. SONG OF A GEOLOGIST. 277
the Wick newspaper, where it was printed under the
title of the " Song of a Geologist." *
Hammers an' chisels an' a',
Chisels an' fossils an' a ;
Sir Rory's the boy, o' the right sort o' stuff,
Hurrah ! for the hammers sae braw.
It's good to be breaking a stone,
The work now is lucky an' braw ;
It's grand to be finding a bone —
A fish-bone the grandest of a'.
Hammers an' chisels an' a',
Chisels an' fossils an' a ;
Resurrection's our trade ; by raising the dead
We've grandeur an' honour an' a'.
May labour be crown'd wi' success —
May prudence promulgate the story —
May scoffers grow every day less,
Till the rocks are a mountain o' glory.
Hammers an' chisels an' a',
Chisels an' fossils an' a' ;
The deeper we go, the more we shall know
Of the past an' the recent an' a'.
Here's freedom to dig and to learn —
Here's freedom to think an' to speak ;
There's nane ever grumbled to look at a stone,
But creatures baith stupid an' weak.
Hammers an' chisels an' a',
Chisels an' fossils an' a' ;
In spite of the devil we'll dig as we're able —
Hurrah ! for the hammers sae braw.
AMYGDALOID.
* It is said that these verses so pleased Sir Roderick
13*
278 AMYGDALOID. CHAP. xvn.
Dick was amazed to find himself in print for the first
time. In writing to his friend Mr. John Miller, then
"esiding in London, he said : — " If there be Amygdaloid
umong the fossiliferous rocks of Thurso, or in your
native county, your humble servant has hitherto failed
to detect it. Charles Peach has a wonderful talent
that way, and I remember his bringing me some pieces
of supposed trap from the neighbourhood of Wick. But
when I sent him these scribblings he thought for certain
that he had found an eruptive rock at last. He clapped
them into the paper and stuck Amygdaloid at the end.
Charlie had found trap again. If the matter had
depended upon me, the printers in Wick would have
been saved the trouble of setting the verses up in print."
To Peach he wrote : — " The rhyme was merely meant
to make you laugh, and, that purpose served, to burn it.
Time was when I used to scribble songs by the dozen,
though I dare say no one would give a bawbee for a
bagful of them. ... I never was free enough of care
and trouble to cultivate the gift. . . . Sentimental folk
want fine feeling and fine language, and I canna be
fashed. And you laughed, did you ? So much laughter,
so much life enjoyed. You are very dowie, you say.
Well, Charles, if you gain by that, you'll lose by
nothing.
So, you sit by the fireplace,
And moping away,
and the eminent band of geologists belonging to the " E«d Lion Club,"
that they were inserted in their records and sung at their annual
meetings. —John o' Groat's Journal.
CHAP. xvii. SONG OF THE FOSSIL-HUNTER. 279
To field or to sea-side
Want courage to stray.
When fernies are withered,
And field flowers are gone,
Oh ! who would go hunting
Starfishes alone ?
After that, Dick confesses that he himself feels very
dowie — he says he is very unwell, still feverish, with
cough, cough, cough ! Nevertheless he appends another
bit of rhyme, to make Charlie laugh again !
Oh, gin ye was a fossil fish
Long petrified in Auld Red Stanes,
An' I a wanderin' found the rock
That held the remnant of yeer banes !
How I would try to dig ye out,
And send ye up to Lon'on fair,
Weel pack't and sealed, ye needna doubt,
To rest at Rory 's * evennair !
Oh, gin ye were an Alpine plant
That grew upon 'Jie mountains high,
An' I a wanderin' found the plant
The little mossie burnie by !
How I would joy, if ye did 'scape
The wintry winds and storms severe —
I'd pu' and put ye in my cap,
An' dry ye, for -a thousand year !
When Sir Roderick Murchison next visited Suther-
land, in August 1859, he was unable to call upon
Bobert Dick ; but he sent him the following letter : —
* Sir Roderick Murchison.
280 MURCHISON'S LETTER. CHAP. xvn.
"My dear Mr. Dick — I send you by this mail a
copy of my memoir on ' The Geological Structure of the
North of Scotland.' It is a Great Eeform Bill which I
am endeavouring to pass ; and it is hard to induce old
mineralogical and bit-by-bit geologists to enter into my
views. But if the grand superposition of strata be not
set aside, nothing can be so clear (nothing at least that
I have ever seen in any county) as the A B C D ot
the great steps by which the geologist ascends, in pro-
ceeding from the west to the east coast of the north
of Scotland.
" I deeply regret not to be able in my conscience to
go and shake hands with you this summer. The fact
is, that the general succession in Caithness, under the
administration of Peach and yourself, is quite secure. I
must therefore look to tracts never explored by me;
and being satisfied myself that the statements printed
in my memoir are substantially correct, I wish to test
them by exploring the tract between Melvich and
Helmsdale, which I have never yet visited.
" The workers had very nearly completed all your
Herbarium before I left London, and you will have it
soon. Professor Ramsay is with me, and is delighted
with the clearness of the order of succession. He is to
sing ' Hammers an' Chisels an' a' ' at our next anni-
versary dinner. — Yours very faithfully,
" RODERICK I. MURCHISON."
The remainder of the herbarium promised by Sir
Roderick reached Thursp shortly after the date of his
CHAP. xvir. RHYME OF THE BLUE BELLS. 281
letter. Dick again exercised his rhyming faculties on his
friend Peach. " As for mysel," he said, " should any-
body speer for me at Aberdeen, you may say that I am
quite merry, singing like a cricket over those dried
plants that Sir Koderick has sent me. Listen a minute :
0, will ye gang oot owre the moor ?
0, will ye gang wi' me, Rory ?
To while awa' a weary hour ;
• I'm sure I'd gang wi' ye, Rory.
We'll wander 'mang the heather knowes,
Their bonnie bells to pu', Rory !
An' where the purple fox-glove grows,
His stately grace to view, Rory !
0, will ye gang oot owre the moor, etc.
How lightly would I clim' the hills
To gather thyme wi' ye, Rory !
And seek the wild flowers by the rills,
As blithely as a bee, Rory !
0, will ye gang oot owre the moor, etc.
See what it is to get a good crop of hay ! I'm just as
happy as a beggar ; and, like Tarn o' Shanter, ' owre a'
the ills o' life victorious ! ' "
CHAPTER XVIII.
LION-HUNTERS—FERNS AND MOSSES.
AFTER Sir Eoderick Murchison had made his speech at
Leeds, Robert Dick's name was carried far and wide on
the wings of the press. He was spoken of as one of the
most extraordinary instances of the pursuit of knowledge
under difficulties. Even the Thurso people began to
look upon him in a different light. "They had long
regarded him as partially insane," said the editor of a
Wick newspaper. " But as time rolled on opinions
gradually changed. By and by it began to be whispered
that men of great influence were visiting the mad
Thurso baker; and when it was found that at the
meetings of the British Association he was named as
one of the highest authorities on certain scientific
questions, and that even Sir Roderick Murchison had
been sitting at his feet and receiving lessons from him,
the Thurso people took pride in naming the great
scientific baker of their town."
The change of opinion was not, however, quite
unanimous. When the joking rhyme about " Hammers
an' chisels an' a' " was published in the Wick newspaper,
Dick wrote to Mr. Peach that " some people here view
the matter quite seriously. One says, ' Sir Roderick will
CHAP. xvin. LION-HUNTERS. 283
regret having extolled me so highly : the verses are
more like what a half-drunk Burns would write than
anything they know.' A weak but well-meaning bodie
at Cromarty sends me a pious bookie about the state of
my souL He says ' the spades, perhaps, are made that
will dig my grave/ He need not have had any ' perhaps '
about the matter. Kirk-yard spades bury three or four
generations. A Dublin divine has sent me a letter that I
have put in the fire, with ' There goes Balaam's ass, No. I/
Indeed you know that the rhyme was solely made to
make you laugh, while you were dowie."
The lion-hunters then came upon him. Point/tmt a
man who has done something out of the ordinary way,
and immediately a tribe of nobodies flock to see him.
If they cannot get introduced to him, they will look at
him through his window, and try to see the lion through
the bars of his cage. Dick hated all this nonsense.
He would not be lionised. Every scientific man was
made welcome to his shop, his bakehouse, and his
parlour; but when persons, who knew nothing about
science, merely called to see him as a show, he was
shy and unapproachable. Some thought him rude.
Yet he was exceedingly attached to those who were his
genuine friends.
A gentleman called upon him one day and sent in
his name. Dick was at work in the bakehouse. " Tell
him/' he said to Annie Mackay, " that I am very busy,
and cannot see him at present." Another message was
sent in: "Tell Mr. Dick that I am the editor of so
and so." The reply was, " I have no time for editors ;"
284 CALLS OF STRANGERS. CHAP. xvin.
[Aside, — "They only thresh straw a thousand times
threshed."] The editor afterwards stuck a prong into
his back — after he was dead.
Dick detested sneakingness and dishonesty. One
day a person called upon him and proceeded to say that
a gentleman, well skilled in botany and physical science,
then in Orkney, wished to call upon him, and that he
had come beforehand to tell him so. It immediately
flashed upon Dick's mind that this was the very person
himself. He said, " It's of no use for your friend to
call: I have no time for new acquaintances." The
stranger then tried to obtain an interview through a
third person, who was instructed to say that he was the
person of whom he had spoken. " No, no," said Dick ;
" tell him not to come here, for if he do I'll say what I
don't want to say to anybody." " What's that ?" " I'll
tell him to go to the !" was the reply.
Many strangers, said a writer in the Northern
Ensign, visited Thurso without being able to see his
collections, although they had come for the express
purpose. In this list we believe we can include a
member of the reigning dynasty in France [Prince
Lucien Buonaparte ?] whom Mr. Dick refused to see,
greatly to his disappointment. But when once, he adds,
Mr. Dick had got the real measure of a man, and found
him what he thought he ought to be, all was right, and
the introduction of a stranger by such a person was the
unfailing open sesame to his house and his curiosities.
Dick's servant and housekeeper, Annie Mackay, has
said of .him, that many people called to see her maister
CHAP, xviii. " THE DUKE " CALLS. 286
— some on business, but most from curiosity. He was
polite to everybody. In business no man could be more
civil. Sometimes people called when he was busy in
the bakehouse. His arms and hands were covered with
flour ; and when the batch was in, he could not leave
the oven. "You see," she said, "he had pounds and
pounds worth o' bread i' the oven. Had he left that and
come out to attend the visitors, the bread wud ha' been
burnt, and he wud ha' lost it a'. Wha wud ha1 paid
him for that ?
" The Duke o' Argyll ca'd ae day to see the maister.
He was thrang wi' his batch. The maister said to the
Duke that he couldna see him the noo, but if he wad
ca' again he wad show him the fossils. The maister
fix'd the time. He put oot the fossils and waited for a
hoor ayont the time. He tell't me, ' If the Duke come,
take him up ta the parlour ; I've taken oot the fossils
and laid them on the table.' The Duke cam after the
maister gaed oot, and looked at the fossils, but he didna
stop lang. The maister was aye very particular about
the time he fixed for visitors to see the fossils."
Sir George Sinclair of Thurso Castle usually brought
his distinguished visitors to see Dick. Sir George had
a great admiration for the baker. When speaking of
his first visit to him, Sir George said : — " I had myself
attended many courses of lectures at the Edinburgh
University, and had acquired some knowledge of the
various departments of Natural History ; but, in con-
ferring with my friend Dick, I soon discovered that all
my acquirements were shallow and superficial. On
286
SIR GEORGE SINCLAIR. CHAP. xvm.
those to which I had devoted attention I found myself
completely eclipsed by my acute and ardent friend, who
was always as ready as he was able, to correct my mis-
takes, to guide my inquiries, and to add to my scanty
stock of general information. The extent and variety of
his scientific acquirements were incredible and almost
OLD THURSO CASTLE.
uviexampled. He knew as much about many sciences
as some professors know about one."
Amongst the numerous persons introduced by Sir
George to Dick, were Thomas Carlyle and the Baroness
Burdett Coutts. With the former he had but little
conversation. They shook hands together across the
counter, and exchanged a few words of congratulation.
With the Baroness he discussed the discoveries of Mr.
Pengelly of Torquay, another eminent votary of science.
Sir George often invited Dick to meet his distin-
CHAP. xvin. MR. PEACH AT ABERDEEN. 287
guished guests at the Castle, and to dine or breakfast
with them. He also invited him to meet Hugh Miller
there alone. But no ! Dick would not leave his own
house. He felt that he should be out of place in a
Castle, served by footmen. " His unassuming modesty,"
.said Sir George, " was as conspicuous as his wonderful
knowledge." Lady Sinclair even proposed to change
her baker, and buy her bread from him. " No, no," he
replied ; " I am the last person to take the bread from
any honest man's mouth. Eemain where you are ; you
cannot be better served."
When Mr. Peach proposed to visit Aberdeen in 1859,
for the purpose of attending the meeting of the British
Association, he asked Eobert Dick if he would not send
a paper, or communicate some facts through his friends.
" No ! " said Dick ; " when you go to Aberdeen I hope
you will not speak of me at all. People bothered me
so much last year after Sir Eoderick made his speech at
Leeds, that I have no desire for any repetition. Tell
Mr. Cleghorn also (a geologist at Wick) not to speak of
me. I wish to be let alone."
But he was quite ready to sing a triumphant song
to welcome Charlie home again : —
O welcome Charlie hame again,
O welcome Charlie to your nain ;
The toon o' Wick has been in pain
For want o' her ain Charlie.
When Charlie went to Aberdeen,
The like before was never seen ;
His coat was brown, his breeks were green,
His buckles shining rarely.
0 welcome Charlie, etc.
288 MEDICAL STUDENTS. CHAP. xvui.
Upon his back a bag o' stones,
His pouches fa' o' fossil bones ;
An' tangles lang as pipers' drones
Hang ower his shoulders rarely.
O welcome Charlie, etc.
When Charlie spak, the great were dumb.
They felt they micht nae fash their thumb :
For Charlie's logic was a drum
That did its business rarely.
0 welcome Charlie, etc.
When Charlie sat in committee
The darkest doubts began to flee ;
A touch ! a word ! at once they see !
For wha can match wi' Charlie ?
O welcome Charlie, etc.
Among those who regularly called upon Dick at his
bakehouse, were the medical students of the town and
neighbourhood. These were always made heartily wel-
come. When Dick had done his day's work, he went
out with them and pointed out the plants in their native
habitat. Dr. Shearer informs us that there was hardly
a medical student belonging to Caithness, who did not
at one time or other make Mr. Dick's acquaintance.
Amongst these were Dr. Meiklejohn, afterwards of her
Majesty's ships "Illustrious," "Harrier," and "Asia;"
Dr. Brown, a well-known botanist, afterwards author of
A Manual of Botany, Anatomical and Physiological ;
and Dr. Shearer himself.
Dr. Meiklejohn has told us of his first introduction
to Dick. Being a native of Caithness, he had long
hear<f of his devotion to natural science, and of the
CHAP, xviii. DR. MEIKLEJOHN. 289
value of his researches into the palaeontology of the
Caithness rocks. When Dr. Meiklejohn went to Thurso
in 1850, he sought an introduction to Dick through
Miss Eussell, bookseller, who had long supplied him
with books. "We at once called upon him," he says,
" and found him in his bakehouse, having just finished
his day's work. I was much struck with his appear-
ance. His massive forehead and fine features betokened
a man of great intelligence. I regretted that he was
not in a position to follow his scientific pursuits, free
from the cares of arduous daily labour.
" On being informed that I wished to know the best
places for procuring specimens of fossils which abounded
in the rocks of the district, he said he would at once
accompany me to some good fossiliferous spots. We
walked out to Holborn Head, where, on an exposed
surface of the rock, a magnificent cranial buckler of the
Asterolepis was imbedded. This was the first example
of that fine fossil which I had ever seen, and I examined
it with the greatest interest. On our way back, he took
me to the bed of a small stream near the Bishop's
Palace, where numerous fossil fishes were to be seen.
During my stay, we had many walks together. His
acquaintance with the Fauna — particularly with the
insects and shells — and the Flora of the district, was
very great. I got much information from him on thost;
subjects."
Their acquaintance continued. When Meiklejohn
returned to Thurso — after his six months' study of sur-
gery and medicine at Edinburgh — one of the first things
290 DR. BROWN. CHAP. xvm.
he did was to call upon Dick. They saw much of each
other during the three years that the young surgeon's
studies continued. He accompanied Dick in his walks.
" I remember," he says, " that he took me one day to a
small pond, where he had found that curious little crus-
tacean, with a bivalve shell, the Cypris. This little
animal was of great interest to us both, as it is supposed
to be allied to Estheria — a fossil not uncommon in the
Caithness flagstones. It was formerly thought to be a
bivalve mollusc related to the little Cyclas of our
rivers."
Dr. Meiklejohn took his degree in 1854, immediately
after which he was appointed to H.M.S. " Harrier," which
was about to sail for the Baltic, during the war with
Russia in the same year. While in the Gulf of Bothnia,
Dr. Meiklejohn sent Dick a long account of the Natural
History of Finland. "I cannot," he said, "give you
any elaborate details, as my only opportunities of in-
vestigating the coasts were, when I accompanied par-
ties of armed men in boats, looking for ships, — fre-
quently with a live shell by my side, and in danger of
being picked off by a Russian rifleman." After the war,
the " Harrier " left Portsmouth for Rio Janeiro and
Perriambuco, cruising along the coast ; and Dr. Meikle-
john again furnished Dick with a long account of the
botany and zoology of the lands which he had visited.
Dr. Brown first made the acquaintance of Dick while
on his way from the Orkneys to Edinburgh, where he
was studying medicine. He called upon Dick at his
bakehouse, and the two had much pleasant conversation.
CHAP. xvni. CAITHNESS BOTANY. 291
Dick supplied his young friend — for he was then only
seventeen — with a list of the plants of Caithness. The
list was a long one. The student read a paper on the
subject to the Botanical Society of Edinburgh. He gave
several of the plants on Dick's authority. The professor
of Botany jeered at the idea of such plants growing in
Caithness, and declared that Dick was all wrong ! Dick
was appealed to. He insisted that he was all right. He
had seen the plants growing with his own eyes. What
better evidence could there be of their existence in
Caithness ? Speaking of the affair to a friend, Dick
said, "I doot the folk that objected were fireside
botanists."
The correspondence, however, continued. In one of
his letters, Dick said, " I am sorry that my doubly-
marked list of plants should have annoyed you so much.
It is impossible for me to send my dried plants to Edin-
burgh for examination by your Professors. The plants
are bulky, — and besides, I value them too highly to
allow any person to touch them, except very tenderly.
How can I forstand your Professors, when they dinna
forstand themselves."
" Saxifraga tridactylites : Dunnet Links. Query —
Why do your Professors doubt my word about so com-
mon a plant as that ? Is it because I said it might be
had in millions ? . . . Arbutus alpina : native. . . .
Luanda Forsteri : my nainsel fand him. . . . Osmunda
regalis. Eh ? Weel, man, were Dr. Johnson of Berwick
alive, he would roar so loud that they would hear him
at Morven. Osmunda regilis has just as good a right to
292 WILD ROSES. CHAP. xvm.
be considered native as Calluna imlgaris. . . . You will
please give all this news to Professor Balfour. Tell him
I am just as jealous of my rights as he can be himself.
" I truly grant, a hundred times,
My skeel may weel be doubted,
But facts are chiels that winna ding,
And needna be disputed."
Another letter from the medical student follows, in
which he offered to assist Dick with specimens of plants ;
to which the baker, perhaps tired of the subject, said —
" I hope you will dismiss from your mind the idea of
hunting out dried plants for me. Attend to your studies,
and leave me to find plants for 'mysel.' . . . Those
plants exist in Caithness some way. How can I tell
how they got there ? "
The correspondence was not yet over. The student,
on his way home to the Orkneys, called upon Dick
again, made up all differences, and got from him some of
the wild Caithness roses, — the whole of which Dick
had tracked to their lonely haunts among the hills and
the straths. In a subsequent letter, Dick says, " I could
pick three or four roses of different ' varieties ' from one
wild rose bush in various stages of transformation. I
don't consider myself beat on that point yet. Nor
will I rest satisfied until I get the decision of some
authority. I'll wait, even for twenty years. Spes
in/racta. What's that ? Gaelic ? May be so — may be
no. It's all the same. I'll wait ! . . . Thanks to you
for giving me the Goat Honeysuckle, and the Woodsia
from Dumfriesshire. I'll thank you quietly ilka time I
CHAP. xvm. WILD ROSES. 293
look on them, and that's better than noise. . . H. C.
Watson most certainly has me on the hip about Potamo-
geton plantagineus ; but I have as certainly floored him
about the Buckbean (Menyanthes). . . . The season of
wild flowers is over once again (September 1860), and I
am not likely to wander far this year. I have never
walked less in all my life than this summer. Wishing
you all the happiness in this world, I am," etc.
In the following month, Dick writes to his young
friend, " You are all right ; and we are sworn friends ;"
and again, " I can't quite make out your hieroglyphics
They are a mystery to me. You can write better than
I ; only don't drive quite so furiously. I was never at
college !" Then he goes on to the Caithness roses again.
" Along with this you will receive your catalogue, which
I have gone over very carefully, and made some notes
thereon. You have omitted some which are very com-
mon, and others, which, though less abundant, are found
here. I have marked no roses save Rosa spinosissima,
Rosa canina, and Rosa micrantha. They are abundant
on the braes, by Thurso river, for miles inland. In dry
seasons, the leaves appear almost white from their hairi-
ness. On a hill six miles away, there grows a rose ;
another fourteen miles away; another twelve miles
away; another six miles away, on the edge of a cliff'
overhanging the sea, and exposed to the full sweep of
the northern tempests. I had intended to have sent you
specimens of all these roses. But the heavy rains forbid :
" ' The best-laid plans o' mice and men
Gang aft aglee.'
H
294 HEATHS AND FERNS. CHAP. xviu.
"But what ails Dr. Balfour ? I am wearying to
hear what these roses are. He need not hesitate to sa}
what he thinks. I lay traps for no one.
" How comes it, that of all the Scotch heaths, Erica
Tetralix only should be given to the habit of putting out
varieties. I have watched Calluna vulgaris and Erica
cinerea, and never yet, among thousands of thousands,
found a notable variety. But with Erica Tetralix, the
loveliest of the three, the case is very different. It is
subject to strange shiftings and changings, and I have
some delightful varieties from it. If Erica Tetralix was
sent to some Darwinian academy, wonderful results
would undoubtedly follow !
"Your society doubted whether the variety of the
lady fern, known as Athyrium molle, was really native
to Caithness. Since I saw you, I have got two speci-
mens of the fern from England ; but Dunnet Cliffs pro-
duce far finer specimens of the same fern. Take my
word for it. I have got two specimens of the variety
rhceticum from England ; the same fern is also here.
" In your catalogue, I observe that you have marked
Poa aquatica as a native of Caithness. That is serious.
The red Poa does not grow in Caithness."
" I'll not write to you again for three months. Attend
to your studies."
We have quoted these extracts to show howthoroughly
Dick had mastered the botany of Caithness. He wan-
dered over the country far and near — in spring, summer,
autumn, and whiter, — and collected all that grew during
those seasons.
CHAP. XVIII.
MOSSES. 295
Strange to say, he missed an object that he had
long been looking for. It was the Juncus sguarrosus,
which is usually found growing on boggy earth. He
searched for it along the banks of the river, but though
there, it had been cropped down by the beasts which
grazed along the grassy plat. At length he found the
plant growing to perfection not a hundred yards from
his own door, — on a piece of land called " The Island " —
a place devoted to the bleaching of clothes, and con-
sequently sacred from the intrusion of cattle.
During the later years of his life, Dick again returned
to the study of botany. He searched all the country
round, for grasses, ferns, and mosses. What an insigni-
ficant thing a Moss seems ! Yet, when a friend was
complaining to Linnaeus, that Sweden did not afford
scope enough for the study of Nature, the sage laid his
hand upon a bit of Moss on which they were reclining,
and said, " Under this palm is material for the study of
a lifetime !"
Every one remembers how Mungo Park, when lost in
the desert, was delighted with the sight of a tuft of Moss.
The little living jewel, growing amongst endless wastes
and arid rocks, melted the traveller's heart. " If God
cares for the moss," he said, " surely He cares for me ; "
and Park went on his way with an uplifted heart.
Dick searched the whole county of Caithness for the
mosses which it contained. He was the first local
botanist who had investigated the subject. Writing to
Peach in April 1856, he said : — " The club-mosses are
very interesting plants. I have found five out of the
296 THE ROYAL FERN. CHAP. xvm.
six British species growing in the county, and probably
I may also find the sixth. The club-moss which strikes
you, is alpinum, which is found in great abundance on
the steep sides of Morven. Selago, or fir club-moss,
seems an exception. Selagirurides too, bears spores
everywhere. ... I am scarcely master of a single
spare moment."
" I am going off to the moors," he again says, " for a
back-burden of moss. If you were here you would go
too, but you would have to rise at five. If you will
visit quarries, my man, it will not do to be snoozing in
your bed until eight o'clock. I was up at one this morn-
ing, hence this epistle." This, however, was a piece of
banter ; for Dick knew that Peach was an early riser,
and did much of his geological work early in the morn-
ing, or late at night. " His letters," said Peach, " even
if bantering me, always brought sunshine."
Dick also continued his search for ferns. He often
wandered along the foot of Dunnet Head, when the tide
was out, and climbed up the rocks into some shady
nook where the ferns grew. They did not grow on the
eastern side of the cliffs, but on the west, where the
Gulf Stream washes along the headland. Sometimes he
descended the western cliffs, where a fall of the red
sandstone had taken place, and there he found the ferns
of which he had come in search. It was a glorious day
for him when he found the Eoyal Fern — Osmunda regalia
— growing there in its native beauty. " I can yet
recollect," he says, " how happy I was when I found the
first Osmunda. I was wearied, and sore, and sick, and
DUNNET HEAD : WEST FRONT.
CHAP, xviir. FERNS ON DUNNE T HEAD. 297
nearly tired of this world, and all that's in it, when I
caught sight of that glorious Fern, large, radiant, and
flourishing, among the reft sandstone cliffs of Dunnet.
What a beauty ! Almost approaching to the size of a
tree fern!"
Dick also found among the rocks on Dunnet Head,
Lastrea dilatata, Lastrea fcenisecii, the Asplenium mari-
num, Asplenium filix-fcemina (lady fern), and numerous
other ferns. Morven mountain was also one of his
haunts, and there he found Polypodium Phegopteris, P,
calcareum, and Lastrea Oreopteris. Braalnabin and Dirlot
also furnished him with many specimens. The com-
moner specimens he found all over the county. He
collected many of the seeds and plants, and sowed them
and planted them broadcast over the county, to be living
when he was dead. He planted scions of the maiden
hair and the royal fern in the gorges of the Dorery
hills, at Morven, and in his fernery at Reay.
Mr. Peach helped Dick in his inquiries as to ferns.
He often sent him seeds or plants, so that they might be
planted in favourite spots. He also sent him some Cornish
heaths. " Many thanks ! " said Dick, " for Erica vagans
and Erica ciliaris. To me they are a world of pleasure."
Having been informed by Mr. Peach that he
had found Asplenium marinum at Strathmore,* Dick
says, "Nothing that you ever mentioned to me has
struck me so much as what you say about Asplenium
* Mr Peach says this must be a mistake. Still Dick's letter was
written on the supposition that he had found the plant, and it shows
how thoroughly he was acquainted with the plants along the coast.
298 F£KNS SEARCHED FOR.
CHAP. XVIII,
marinum. ... I have examined every accessible sea-
cliff from Portskerra to John o' Groat's, and never yet
found a trace of it. A. marinum on the slaty rocks !
How is that to be accounted for ? Certainly not owing
to the exposed nature of the coast, nor to the sea spray.
I have clambered down the north-western point of
Dunnet Head, where the northern storms waste their
fury on the cliffs, and the sea spray is lifted in vapoui
high over their loftiest pinnacles, and even there As-
plenium marinum loves to nestle among its crevices ?
The distribution must be a mystery."
Peach sends Dick many plants for him to name.
He sent the Polygonum viviparum. " It is a rare
alpine plant," was the reply. " It is not a fern at all,
though it is nearly as rare as your treasured Dryas
odopetcda, in search of which I have spent many a
long day. Your orchis is Hdbenaria chlorantha; your
fern Cystopteris dentata: it is decidedly rare. Thanks
for allowing me to rob you of Scolopendrium (Hart's-
tongue). ... A plant I have gathered here," he
says, " I have dried and submitted to an English pro-
fessor (Babington). He has pronounced it to be one of
the very rarest in Britain. The plant is rare, but not
so rare as the professor kindly wished to make it.
" Not content with the specimens of the fern which
I had got beside me, I set out (July 23) for a mountain
nine miles away, where I knew the plant grew ; and in
due time I got there, and saw, or thought I saw, many
different species. On one sloping brae grew Polypodium
Phegopteris, and I sat me down beside it. I remarked
CHAP. xvni. SIGHT FROM A HILL TOP. 299
that, though of all sizes, from an inch up to twelve
inches, every one was true to the type. Passing on to
a rocky ledge, I saw a cluster of the fern I had gone in
quest of. Down I sat, in admiration wrapt, the world
forgot ! What was the world to me, with its pomps,
and pleasures, and nonsense ? Away with printed books
and dried specimens ! Nature, ever enduring and capti-
vating Nature, is the best of all books to study from.
That, said I, is the Polypodium Dryopteris of learned
men. More than fifty of the fern were growing before
me, — not one of them agreeing in any particular with
the Dryopteris of the books.
" When I had gathered the plants, I sat and looked
around. The day was warm and delightful. A thin
haze was dancing through the air. The effect was
charming, tempting one to dream. Through the mists
of Mirza I could see a human figure at the hill foot,
stooping low to the ground. Probably, thought I, some
broken-hearted pilgrim is providing for futurity. I
turned round, and after a while I looked again. Alas !
it was a half -naked woman filling her stomach with cold
water. The spell was broken. It was time to be gone.
Adieu, old boy !"
In this way was the pleasant correspondence of the
two geologists carried on. There was no envy, but
every kind of helpfulness between them. Peach told
his discoveries to Dick, and Dick told his to Peach.
There were many discussions between them, more
particularly as to Peach's fossil wood. Dick said that
under Peach's supposition " a stone quarry becomes a
300 THE OLD MAN'S SONG: CHAP. xvin.
buried forest." Yet Mr. Peach held that he was right.
And Dick also worked hard to get at the right meaning
of things.
On one occasion he writes to Peach as follows : — " A
few days since I found myself standing by the sea-
shore on the east side of Dunnet Head. I was scanning
with delighted soul the overturned strata, and musing
on the Past, on the Beginning, on Eternity !
" I am again bothered with rheumatism, and neither
an enthusiastic love of stones nor fossils can delude me
into the belief that pain is an illusion, and not a stern
reality — intended no doubt for good, and yet I had as
lief be without it —
" ' Oh ! age has weary days
An' nights o' sleepless pain ;
The gowden time o' youthful prime
Can never come again ! '
That's the old man's song, Charlie. But it is all owing
to temperament or constitution, or to stamina at the
outset.
" I felt considerable chagrin when you returned from
the West, and brought no root of Scolopendrium with
you. I did not want it for myself, but for science and
Nature. I wished to plant it on Dunnet cliffs, or on the
slate hills to the south of Thurso. I know favourable
spots where I think it would live, and gratify the weary
souls of lonely pilgrims, long after you and I are singing
hallelujah with the angels. If you don't send that
Scolopendrium, your monument in the North will have
no garland hung around it."
CHAP, xviii. THE HART'S-TONGUE FERN. 301
A little later lie again complains of illness. He
says, " I can't bear mental fatigue. I am weary and
sore. The buzzing of a fly is a burden to me. I slept
only three hours last night. My head is sore, and I
am not 'i' the vein.' You compliment your humble
servant, and ask assistance to your list of queries. I
know a little — just a little, and am daily making the
little more — the mark of a true Scot ; yet in the im-
perfect knowledge of the Caithness strata I would not,
for crowns, or robes, or kingly globes, put my unhallowed
hands to a fancy section of Caithness strata." *
At length Peach sent him the Scolopendrium. His
sickness had fled, and he was quite jubilant in his reply.
" I have planted it," he said, " among the magnificent
crags of Dunnet Head. A bronze pillar should reward
the person who introduces into a county such a lovely
plant as the Hart's-tongue fern, ever verdant, ever gay.
What beautiful green fronds ! How handsome and
picturesque ! My only regret is that I cannot sow it
broadcast over the whole land."
A little later Peach sent him another lot of the
Hart's-tongue ferns from Sutherland. Dick proceeded
to plant them far astray, so that they might not be
huddled together into one corner, " I prefer," he said,
* Sir Eoderick Murchison had requested Mr. Peach to furnish him
with & section of the rocks between Morven and the Orkneys.
" What ?" said Dick, " a section of Caithness strata without previous
examination ? It would he a mere fancy section of the whole county's
hard crust, to the delusion of all and sundry." He adds, that he
Dejected Hugh Miller's " section of Caithness strata, as based on defect-
ive data and misleading calculations."
14*
302 PLANTED OVER THE COUNTY. CHAP. XVIH
"the fatigue of planting them as widely apart from
each other as possible, so that they may scatter their
colonies. In long years, after you and I are dead, and
perhaps making ' a bung for a beer-barrel,'* they will
be fresh and flourishing. ... It was not for vanity that
I begged them from you. No. It was the certainty
that in generations yet unborn the feeling that ' vanity
of vanities, all is vanity,' would weigh down and
oppress, and that some wanderer sad might be made
happier by seeing them. For is not a ' thing of beauty
a joy for ever' ? Bless and thank you, my dear Charlie!
They'll never thank you. That's my duty ! One cannot
but admire the Wisdom which gave and gives a feeling
and a sense of the beautiful even to the ignorant. Were
it otherwise, Beauty would not exist; and to the All-
knowing how small is the difference between the sage
and the savage!"
A little later Dick says : — " I have planted the Eoyal
Fern inland many miles. I have planted it at Eeay
and Dorery. There I can see the hills of Sutherland
far in the distance. Aided by my zealous friend Charles
the Sassenach, I have adorned and beautified Caith-
ness. I write this in the midst of care and trouble.
I have a bad cough, and no more romance at present.
* " Why may not imagination trace the noble dust of Alexander,
till he find it stopping a bunghole «... Alexander died, Alexander
was buried, Alexander returneth unto dust ; the dust is earth ; ol
earth we make loam ; and why, of that loam, whereto he was con-
verted, might they not stop a Deer-barrel ?
" Imperious Csesar, dead and aimed to clay,
Might st.ip a. hole to keep the wind away."— Hamlet.
CHAP, xviii. LETTER TO PEACH. 303
Eobin's head's sair. It's a desperate thing to fill up a
page with a bad headache. I am glad that you are in
spirits at least, if not altogether in health. So many
people are going that I began to be apprehensive that
you were seriously ill. . . . Charles, old boy, go when
you may (unless I go first), I shall seriously miss you.
ROBERT DICK'S SEAT : VIEW INTO 8CTHEBLAND8HIRE.
I miss Hugh Miller as much as ever I did, and 'tis
likely I will ever do so."
Mr. Peach says that Dick had so thoroughly examined
the botany of the county, that for some years before his
death he could discover nothing that he had not before
met with. " I well remember," he says, " when asking
him ' what there was new,' his eye brightened up, and he
answered, ' Just this one plant new to the county. I
was giving up my botanical search, and returning home
304 DARWIN'S JOURNAL. CHAP, xvm,
after a long evening walk from Dunnet Links, when I
lighted upon this pretty umbelliferous plant — hedge
parsley ; and here it is ! ' Thus, so closely had he looked
up the plants of the county that for some years he could
scarcely discover another. Had he been persuaded to
give his thoughts to the world, he would have stood very
high in the ranks of scientific authors. But he never
could be induced to publish his observations and dis-
coveries. He could not get over his bashfulness."
Many discussions about geology occur in the course
of the correspondence. Peach sent Dick Darwin's
Journal to read. Dick replies : — " Though the book was
never in my hands before, yet I found that I was already
familiar with most of the facts it contains. Sir Charles
Lyell draws upon it rather freely. And in various other
works I have met with his craft. He is a fine fellow.
. . . He traverses the widespread Pampas of Buenos
Ayres and Patagonia, rides over their accumulated sand
and pebbles and their sepulchres of dead bones, and he
is overwhelmed and bewildered at their magnitude.
But why should he be astonished ? The sands are many,
it is true, and the boulders and stones innumerable ; but
the sea, the million-handed ocean, that rounded them in
his palm, is vastly more extensive. The sea is a work-
man that never wearies, never rests, never slumbers !
Thanks to you and Mr. Darwin, the perusal of the book
has confirmed nie in all that I told you long ago. . . .
Humboldt half guesses that the living and the fossil
animals belong to the still existing creation, but it seems
to be convenient to withhold the avowal
CHAP. xvni. DEXTEROUS GEOLOGISTS. 305
" Nobody knows when this earth was made, how it
was made, or how long it was in making.
" Of one creation part we ken,
Wi' mair we dinna meddle ;
A nee dream o' twa, ye'll dream o' ten,
An' fancies endless — diddle !
" Don't think that I do not value Mr. Darwin. I
have read his observations most carefully; but with my
own spectacles. Geologists have led me such a dance
during the last twenty-five years, that I prefer that way
of reading books.
" This earth on which we move may have been
created very long ago, but certainly most of the regions
visited by Mr. Darwin exhibited very few signs of a
hoar antiquity ; and despite previous teachings and their
influence, the very recent nature of many of the deposits
forced itself upon his attention." After quoting from
Humboldt, Professor Sedgwick, and others, he continues
the argument in favour of his own views. He concludes
thus : — " I remember that when friend Hugh set down
in print that all that lived previous to and during the
chalk died out with the chalk, and not one existence was
spared ; yet when, after a time, a species of shell was
found in tertiary and chalk strata, the geologists very
dexterously clapped those tertiary strata alongside and
with the chalk, just to make things tally ! How will
they manage now ? "
Dick deprecated the idea of explaining the universe
and how it was formed, but he threw out the following
idea of the greatness of the thing attempted to be ex-
306 THE CUPFUL OF SAND. CHAP. xvm.
plained, and the littleness of the things attempting to
explain it : —
" Take a cupful of sand and strew it over the floor.
It is a mere sprinkling, scarcely discernible. A fly
settles down on it, walks over and across it, and regard 3
it as hi no way remarkable. A smaller creature than
the fly comes and walks over it To him it is a very
great matter, — quite a Sahara ! Now, were the whole of
the formations of geologists, by some superhuman power,
let loose particle from particle, and the whole strewed
over the floor of the ocean, would they form more than
a mere sprinkling ?
" Brush the cupful of sand together again. It forms
a little hill, or, if of a lengthened form, a mountain
range. The fly from your window comes again and
settles down beside it. He looks up. ' How magnifi-
cent ! ' says he. He walks round it and over it. ' How
vast ! millions and millions of years must have been
consumed in their formation ! ' Ignorant, simply igno-
rant, all the while, of the means by which a body of
matter so apparently formidable to his puny ideas was
brought together. The fly will not understand it, but
he'll buzz and buzz, and make a noise ; and his fellow
flies, hearing the noise, will exclaim, ' What a long-
headed fellow ! ' "
George Shearer of Thurso, then a student at Edin-
burgh, was a great admirer of Dick. He got from him
a great deal of his first knowledge of botany. As in
the case of Dr. Meiklejohn, Dick took him to see the
plants growing in their native habitats. They had con-
CHAP, xviii. DR. SHEARER. 307
versations on many subjects. But there was one subject
on which George Shearer was particularly anxious to
know Dick's opinion ; and that was his views as to the
Mosaic Cosmogony.
Accordingly, he wrote to him from Edinburgh on the
subject. But Dick was not to be " drawn " by a person
so much his inferior in years and knowledge. He re-
plied : — " As to your religious queries, my answer is —
On religious matters we are not equal. I am within
three months of being fifty-three years of age. Wait
until you are as old, and wearing spectacles, and then
we will discuss those matters. Meantime, as you can-
not rest, you will probably be writing a commentary on
the Eomans. My advice to you is, 'Tak' tent; let
sleepin' dogs lie ! ' "
This reminds one of a story told of the late poet
Rogers. When asked by a lady what was his religion,
he replied, " I am of the religion of all sensible men."
"And what is that?" asked the lady. "All sensible
men," replied Rogers, " keep that to themselves."
Dr. Shearer, many years after, when grown to man-
hood, said that Dick must then have thought him some-
what of a prig. " I took his reply," he says, " in excellent
part. I felt that, when he wrote it, he thought that the
unthinking may easily be orthodox, and that the loudest
professors were sometimes the shabbiest actors in the
drama of life."
Dick was of opinion that dogmatism in interpretation,
was equally out of place in geology as in divinity. He
thought that man's proper work at present was to search
308 DR. MEIKLEJOHN. CHAP, xvin
and acquire new facts and materials for the formation of
further knowledge. Theories might wait. Certainly the
time had not yet arisen for harmonising the Testimony of
tlie Rocks with the first chapter of the Book of Genesis.
Dr. Meiklejohn again resumed his correspondence
with his friend Dick on his return to England, while
surgeon of H.M.S. "Asia." Dick replied to him at
once. He began his letter to the doctor with a little
bit of censure : — " If I were to plead busy, as you do, as
an excuse for not writing, I think I would never scribble
a word at all. I rise generally at three o'clock, and am
for the most part engaged all the day until I go to roost
at nine o'clock in the evening. Nothing but thirty
years' practice could have enabled me to endure such a
galley-slave life.
" I have not seen Sir Charles Lyell's book on the
Geological Age of Man, and should I see a review of it I
must be on my guard, for I fear I am too straightfor-
ward in expressing my notions on these and other
fashionable speculative dreams. I have seen Darwin's
book on Orchids very coolly reviewed in the Athenceum.
I have no wish to meddle with Mr. Darwin's peculiar
notions. . . . One thing, indeed, I'll grant Mr. Darwin
— that hundreds of so-called species may have sprung
from one stock. I have been lately looking at grasses,
and would not care though Mr. Darwin made all the
species of Poa and Festuca to have grown from one
plant. And so of many more of them."
In a future letter Dick says : — " I am sorry you think
that I do an injustice to Mr. Darwin, as I would not
CHAP. xvni. MR. DARWIN'S VIEWS. 309
knowingly do an injustice to any one. It is quite pos-
sible that, in my ignorance of what that gentleman's
true views really are, I may have spoken rashly and
hastily. That you can pardon, for in truth I have never
read one of his books, and the reviewers of them mry
have twisted his meaning to serve their own purposes.
" If what Mr. Darwin means be, that the various ani-
mals and plants we see around us are not exactly first
creations — that is, are not now what they were when
made by the hand of the Almighty, but have since that
act been changing continually, so that it is now difficult
to say from what particular stock the various forms have
come — if that be all, if not pushed too far, it does not
seem dangerous doctrine ; in fact, it looks rather playful,
and at the same time it may have much truth in it. I
can myself see that it is and must be difficult to deter-
mine from what particular stock many species of plants
have sprung. For that every species, made such by man,
was a particular act of God's workmanship, is out of the
question. That idea I cannot admit at all. Cuvier's
definition of a species may be the right one, but surely it
is rash and presumptuous. How can I or any man,
while looking at a plant, say that it has maintained all
its particular characteristics unchanged since it came from
the hands of its Maker ?
" Since I have looked at Scotch roses — for example,
the very small lot of them to be met with in Caithness
— I have found much to correct my earliest ideas on
creation, such as my teachers (knowing as little as I did
myself) instilled into me. I thought, even since I read
310 EXTERNAL INFLUENCES. CHAP. xvin.
books on plants, and looked on the coloured figures, that
the various species were well marked, and must have
had a distinct origin. I confess that that notion is fast
leaving me. All my simpler ideas are giving way.
Whether the result will be to make me happier or better
I cannot say. Certainly they cannot hurt me, for, after
all, first stocks must have had a Creator. They could not
spring up out of the ground unbidden, and that is enough
for me. There is an over-ruling Hand everywhere.
" External influences — such as soil, situation, climate,
and such like — exercise a powerful effect on wild roses.
Take, for instance, the Rosa spinosissima. You know its
peculiar characteristics, and how very unlike the
common dog rose (R. canina) it is. Would you
believe that one bush of it on the boulder clay here,
has put forth flowers hardly distinguishable from dog-
roses. The leaves large, the flowers white, the prickles
hooked, and so on. You have seen roses in country
gardens ? White roses in a corner, with double flowers,
and very large unsightly leaves. Well, would you
think or expect Rosa spinosissima to have such large
unsightly leaves growing wild on hard boulder clay ?
Some stocks of R. spinosissima have pink petals; in
dry years, red petals and excessively hairy leaves ; in
wet seasons, white petals and smooth leaves ; in short,
the leaves and the whole plant vary excessively. And
suppose the plant changed to another soil, and favoured
by shelter, its improved appearance is hardly credible.
" I have seen something worth noting. Some plants
of Rosa spinosissima grew on the face of a brae of blue
CHAP. xvin. VARIETIES IN ROSES. 311
boulder clay. Drains and improvements on the soil atop
of the clay sent a perpetual stream of water over the
roots of the plants. In two years they have so altered
that I can hardly believe my eyes. . . . All the roses
growing wild in Caithness may have come from one
stock ; but from what particular stock I cannot tell."
We merely quote these remarks from Dick's letters
to show the acuteness and accuracy of his observations.
He never missed any peculiar characteristic of a plant.
He had also a wonderful memory about it, and could
contrast its appearance during one season with its
appearance in another. It was the same with all his
natural history observations. In one of his letters to
Dr. Meiklejohn he refers to the mischief done to the
fields of Caithness by a particular grub. " Speaking of
grasses," he says, " reminds me of the crops of Caithness.
They are desperately cut up by a worm, of what par-
ticular species I'll not say, but the grub of 'Daddy
Longlegs ' (Tipula oleracea) has certainly the predomi-
nance. It has drawn after it whole flocks of starlings,
who are driving a brisk trade. But it would require
millions of them to stay she plague. Indeed, the work
of ruin is already done. It is pitiful."
CHAPTER XIX.
ROBERT DICK IN ADVERSITY.
FLOWERS, ferns, and mosses, must for a time disappear,
and give place to troubles, disappointments, and sorrows.
It is a hard work-a-day world in which we live. Mis-
fortunes follow close upon pleasures, however innocent ;
and we must set ourselves to bear them as best we may.
Dick was never a rich man. The most that he could
do was to make both ends meet and keep out of debt.
He could even spare a little money to buy books. Be-
fore 1860, we find him buying from the Thurso book-
seller the History of British Lichens, the Coloured Ferns
of Britain, Sowerby's Ferns, and the Handbook of British
But after that time his business fell off rapidly, and
he had to be more sparing in his book-buying. It must
be said of Dick that he closely attended to his business.
Only once do we find him confessing that he had stolen
a morning from his daily work ; and that was when he
went on his long journey to Freswick, to search for shells
among the boulder clay for his friend Hugh Miller.
Though he often left the town at midnight, his bread
for the following morning had been baked before he left.
It was sold during the day by his housekeeper. And
CHAP. xix. LOSES HIS BUSINESS. 313
he was always back to Thurso to resume his work on
the same evening. During the interval, he had been
rambling over the county, and sometimes walking from
fifty to eighty miles — wandering under the red sand-
stones on Dunnet Head — or travelling to Reay, the
Dorery Hills, or Strath Halladale. His journeys to
Morven were usually made on the fast days, which
gave him a day extra.
He lost his business principally through excessive
competition. When he first went to Thurso, there was
only another baker besides himself. He was then com-
fortable enough, — though he did all his work himself, —
never employing either a journeyman or an apprentice.
Two more bakers commenced business in 1856. Each
of these took a certain share of his trade ; and, of
course, his business fell off. Writing to his sister in
May 1856, he said: " The mischief done me can never be
repaired here. I've lost much, and am still losing ; and
what is worst of all, I am losing my health. I have
not had a day's health since February last, and good-
ness knows that if I had to take to my bed all would
be over. And is it not very hard, and a poor reward
for the twenty-five years of toil and privation that I
have had ? Very hard indeed ! I wish I could get
away ; but where to, or what to labour at, I know not.
To go abroad seems ridiculous in every way, as I would
either have to try to be a shepherd or a day-labourer.
Sometimes I think I might contrive to work in a malt-
kiln, but perhaps I could not get that even if I tried.
" And thus my existence is embittered. Years, many
314 GETS DOWN-SPIRITED. CHAP. xix.
years ago, I saw the dark clouds gathering close about
me ; and now it has all come true. Often was I on the
point of leaving. But infatuated procrastination always
whispered, ' Try again.' I did ' try again,' but it was of
no use. It only led to further loss. And losing, and
losing slowly though surely, in spite of all my toil and
care, until my small means are so reduced that I hardly
now dare to look into the future. 0 if I had only gone
away four years ago ! If I had gone then, I should
have been stronger in Means, stronger in Health, and,
above all, stronger in Will and determination. Alas !
I feel that by and by I shall be as soft as a piece of
boiled fish ! "
Though still engaged in finding fossil fishes for Hugh
Miller, and collecting botanical specimens from the
grasses, ferns, and mosses of Caithness, the thought was
constantly in his mind of how he could get away from
his losing business. At one time he thought of getting
admitted to the Coastguard service ; but he found that
he was too old for the position. But could he not yet
remove from Thurso, and set up as a baker elsewhere ?
Muckart, a village near Kinross, was mentioned to
him ; but he said, that " no man in his senses would
set his foot there." Then Bannockburn, near Stirling,
was mentioned : would that do ? " No," said he ; "I
have a dread of weaving places. "Weavers often suffei
great misery, and a stoppage of trade is clean ruin."
Another place was mentioned, where a business was for
sale. But he had not the means of buying or carrying
on the trade. And thus he was left at Thurso, to " try
again " !
INCREASE OF BAKERS. 315
Matters became worse and worse. Mo're bakers ap-
peared in Thurso, and his trade again diminished. Some
of them sold whisky and groceries, besides carrying on
the baking business. Whisky was a great competitor ;
for Caithness folks are very drouthy. The Eeverend
William Smith of Bower, whose members, and even
whose elders, were much addicted to the use of spiritu-
ous liquors, once addressed his congregation as follows :
— " My brethren, we are told in the Scriptures that the
ciders of old were filled with the Holy Spirit ; but now-
a-days, they're filled with John Barleycorn ! " One
may guess the wind-up of his sermon.
Dick was thus very heavily handicapped, as he
lived by baking alone. He then thought of carrying
on a tea business, and thus adding to his income. But
the idea was abandoned. One of the whisky and gro-
cery bakers determined to undersell all the bakers in
Thurso. He did so, and afterwards became a bank-
rupt. But Dick gained nothing from that. In the
contest he was nearly ruined.
"How many bakers, think you," he writes to his
sister in 1862, " are now in Thurso ? Six master bakers,
and thirteen apprentices ! All doing well, they say !
Who rises earliest ? Dick. Who is the oldest ? Dick.
And yet Dick has not made a fortune ! I wish I had
left here in 1843, — that is, eighteen years ago. There
is no use in repining. Yet how manfully I have battled,
no one knows. You see, from one of the papers you
sent me, that a baker's wife at Alva drowned herself in
Devon river, r^nd that a baker at Cupar-in-Fife baa
hanged himself. It did not surprise me."
316 IMPROVEMENTS IN THURSO. CHAP. xix.
His sister offered to send him money and clothing.
Kobert refused the help. " Things have not come so far
as that yet," he said. " If they had, I should need a
strait jacket. To those who have to struggle by their
labour for a living, the prescription of coddling and nurs-
ing is about the worst treatment imaginable. It is neither
good nor profitable in any way. When any man or
woman consents to receive such things as you spoke of,
and for such a purpose, then adieu to all self-dependence
and self-respect. Then, ten to one, the individual would
become degraded and useless. You have no idea how
injurious it is, both to soul and body, to wear next
your skin what one never toiled for. Besides, your
income is little enough for yourself."
And yet Thurso was improving. Many new in-
habitants were added to the town, but very few of
them came to Dick's counter for bread. Pavement-
cutting had superseded herring-fishing. Many new
flag quarries had been opened out, and those who had
fished for herrings now cut flags for pavement. Many
of the old Highland cottars, who had been driven from
their homes, also resorted to Thurso for the same pur-
pose.
" In fact," said Dick, " the flag-trade here is every-
thing ; * and the town increases from day to day, chiefly
by additions from the surrounding country. The
* When the author was in Thurso he was introduced by name to an
eminent flag-cutter. " You will know this gentleman by his works ? "
"Ay; where are they? I never heard o' them." "I mean his
literary works." " Ou, is that it?" Thus flags, not books, rule tha
Thurso world.
CAITHNESS COTTARS
317
town is all new-streeted and new- 41
roaded. No dirty water runs along ^
them now. There are three policemen to keep down
dunghills. We have three new churches, two new
banks, and a gaswork. There is a fine statue of Sir
John Sinclair in front of the Moderate Kirk, alias
the Establishment. We have a new hotel, a new
court-house, and new shops. Whole rows of new
houses have been built. We have a steamer to Orkney,
a steamer to Leith, and a din about a railway.* In
fact, nearly everything has been changed, except the
fields round the town. These remain very much the
same, being fenced with flagstones set on end. When
I came first to the county, many of the poor people
never saw the sun until they came out and sat down at
the ends of their cots. But now, there are very few
houses without windows to be seen, though there are as
many swine as ever. Poor cottars are now dressed like
The railway has smoe been made.
15
318 ANNIE MACK AY. CHAP. xix.
ladies and gentlemen — nothing but silks and parasols.
' Jack's as good as his master,' and sometimes he thinks
himself a good deal better. A dreadful place for money-
gathering, all coupled with a tremendous thirst for ser-
mons and prayer-meetings. Notwithstanding this, we
have scraping and lying all the week through."
None of this prosperity affected Dick. His business
was steadily falling off. And yet "the weary siller"
must be worked for. He was now getting old, and felt
himself unfitted for entering upon any new occupation.
He would have emigrated, but he had not the means.
Nor could he remove to any other place, for the same
reason. He was bound like a limpet to its rock. But
for his love of nature, it must have been a lonely life
that he led. He seems to have had few friends to
whom he could communicate his joys or his sorrows.
At least he never mentions them in his letters to his
sister, in which he mentioned all that he knew, and all
that he was doing. The principal person about him
was his old housekeeper, Annie Mackay, whose half-
Highland, half-Scotch conversations, he sometimes men-
tions to his sister. Here, for instance, is a specimen : —
"Och hane! I'm thinkin' it's yeersel that's in the star-
vation countrie, wi' yeer eggs at saxteen pence the dizzen,
and yeer coos' butter at twenty pence the new pund !
Och a nee, the like o' that's a farlie ! Fat gars ye
spike that waa, and consither a firlot little when she's
muckle ? Eh-a ? I dinna see yeer mistaaks, and hoo
ye read yeer paper upside doun. Fan yeer wark is
cleen, ye gang oot by an' kill yeersel and no be sorrin
CHAP. xix. DICK'S GENEROSITY. 319
at the fyre. That's fat ye sud dee, an' if ye dinna,
ye kenna fat's the consequence, nor hoo a' study wearies
the flesh. Forbye, ye tak cauld, and get giddy in yeer
head, loss understanding and coup ower, an' mistaks,
damage things, and brak. Fat wye ? Fat sense's that ?
I dinna see ony intill't.
" I canna see hoo ye see, I canna mak oot hoo ony
Christan genlm is to gang oot in mires, brakin stanes
amang snaw, and seekin' whistles in a moor hill-side.
Na, na ; he's fustlin' eneugh in Lonon [this must refer
to Sir Roderick Murchison], sittin in a chair toastin' his
taes, and lookin at Africa wye two thousin lochs amang
mountains. Forbye ye mistak sair a' the warl's wyes,
an hoo anither thing says one thing is meant. An' foo,
unless yeer astonishmen' is greet, yeer need to spike is
little."
Dick seems to have been much amused by the con-
versation of his housekeeper. She was a very careful
woman. She never wasted a farthing's worth of her
master's goods. When beggar children came to the
door, she was firm in her resistance to their entreaties.
" The breed wuna hers, but the maister's." The bairns
waited until the maister was at home, and then they had
their serving. For Dick was always generous to hungry
children. " My kin' maister," said Annie, " was very fond
o' bairns that wud be clean an' tidy. Mony a time he
gaed a piece ta ony poor bodie that cam to the door."
Another thing that kept Dick poor was his honesty.
He gave full weight — full measure and running over.
He never scrimped any poor person of his bread. His
320 HONESTY THE BEST POLICY. CHAP. xix.
quarter-loaf always contained four pounds full; whereas
the loaves of many of the other bakers were short by
about four ounces. Their two-pound loaves were short
by about two ounces. Thus, cheating had the advan-
tage over honesty, of six per cent on every loaf of
bread sold. That was a profit by itself; but few people
had the means of weighing their bread, to detect the
honesty or dishonesty of their baker, and therefore the
cheating went on — to Dick's ruin. Yet he never
relaxed his principle of giving full weight. " Honesty's
the best policy," continued to be his maxim. He felt
that it was better to die than be dishonest.
In a letter written to his sister at this disconsolate
period of his life, he says : —
" I have not much of a hopeful kind around me, and
yet, as I have a sun and moon of my own, I am gener-
ally very cheerful. I often take some hearty laughs
when no one is near me. I am nearly indifferent to the
whole world. But that won't do either. I keep always
moving — never indulging in idleness or lying in bed in
the morning. Up at four o'clock, or half-past four at
latest ; sometimes at three o'clock.
"There is a baker here that lies in his bed till seven
or eight, and his two apprentices keep knocking at his
door until he rises. He goes dabbling on till eight or
nine at night. Besides parridge, wife, and bairns, he
knows no more. That's not worth living for. People
came into the world for something better.
"I am working at my plants perseveringly ; and
whatever is to be the end, I keep moving. . . . Nor am
CHAP. xix. MOSSES BY MOONLIGHT. 321
I ignorant that all my toil is vanity, in one sense, and
perhaps in every sense. I am indifferent nearly to
everything. Hope of any real happiness in this world
is out of the question."
" I have been poring every spare minute over dried
mosses. I have been so engaged during the last
month. Not long since, I had the eager curiosity to
walk out one night, when I picked up a very nice moss
by the light of the moon ! You may ask, how could I
do that ? Thanks be praised, I've got my eyesight, my
feelings, and I can- grape* too. It was a very frosty
night, and hailstones lay thick upon the bog ; but I
knew the exact spot where the mosses grew. I had
taken a look at them some six weeks before, and found
them in prime condition. The world was asleep.
Mosses, not Moses. I often consult Moses' writings.
How fine that is about the scapegoat sent into the wil-
derness, with the cord about his horns, bearing a burden
that he did not feel. Splendid Bible that !
" If any friend asks you about your brother Eobert,
you may say that he inherits the blessing of Jacob's
son. If they inquire which son, you may say the one
who was likened to an ass ' stooping down between two
burdens' — with this difference, that instead of two,
your brother has a score or two of burdens. He knows
by sad experience that 'rest is good.' But he is at
times so wearied and sore that he cannot find rest.
And further, the person who said that ' the harder the
* Grape— Search with the hands in the dark.
322 LOSING HIS EYESIGHT. CHAP. xix.
work the sweeter the rest,' never toiled hard in his life.
But there is nothing for the machine that has been
long in use but to keep it going, otherwise it would fall
to pieces. So I always keep in motion, though the
battle is not half won yet."
One of his troubles was that his eyesight was
becoming defective. " You see," he said to his sister,
" that I am on the decline — not in bodily strength,
for I can walk sixty miles without a rest — but in
eyesight. I have to use spectacles with candlelight,
either in reading or writing. I am employing my spare
time in working at my plants. I have arranged four-
teen hundred specimens, but I may say that I have
three thousand specimens altogether, because of the
varieties."
His sister sent him a new pair of spectacles, bought
expressly for him at Edinburgh, but they did not suit
his eyes. " It is a sad annoyance to me," he said
in reply, "that I cannot read with them — the more
especially as I can hardly live without books, and my
time for reading is principally in the evening. As it is,
I must endure the drawback. Tew and scanty are my
pleasures ; indeed they are such as are usually despised
by thoughtless people. I will surely try to live an
inoffensive life, though I'm no favourite with anybody.
I have a great deal of unknown grief. This world's
people have almost left me, and I struggle hard, very
hard."
His sister at once sent him a new pair of spectacles,
and they suited him better ; but he said, " It is rheu-
GROWING OLD. 323
matism that has been troubling me, and giving me that
dreadful pain in the eyes. . . . Your petting is not
good for me. I've been so long accustomed to rough
usage, that your kindness seems quite unnatural. I
have laid my own specks aside, and am trying your
pair, but there is no abatement in the rheumatism — not
one hair. I pay for reading as dear as ever. It is
certainly rather hard that there should be any tax
whatever on the means of acquiring knowledge.
" I am pretty indifferent to the thought of growing
old, if I could only read as freely as I used to do.
Nothing like the natural eyesight. I never wearied
then. I did not need to squeeze my eyeballs or my
eyelids, to get relief. If the pain were constant, I
should be truly miserable. But as yet the infliction
merely comes and goes."
In the autumn of 1862, Professor Wyville Thomson,
then of Queen's College, Belfast, called upon Mr. Dick
at his bakehouse, and had some conversation with him
as to the fossil fishes of the Old Red Sandstone. The
Professor was introduced by Charles Peach, and was
therefore made cordially welcome. After some conver-
sation about fossils, Dick turned to the subject of
Botany, and the Professor promised, so far as he could,
to furnish him with the specimens of dried plants of
which he was still in want. On his return to Belfast,
he sent Dick a list of British plants, and asked him to
mark those which he required for his herbarium.
Sir Wyville Thomson has favoured us with the fol-
lowing recollection of his visit : —
324 SIX WYVILLE THOMSON CHAP. xix.
"My acquaintance with Kobert Dick was very
slight, but I was greatly struck with all I saw of him,
I had been working at the Old Eed beds in Orkney
with William Watt, another very remarkable man,
somewhat of the same character ; and crossing over by
Thurso, I spent two or three hours with Dick, whom I
knew about through my old friend Peach. I was
specially interested at the time in the structure of
Coccosteus, and had got some fine specimens in Orkney,
with all the outer armour plates capitally preserved;
but I remember Dick showing me some curiously
preserved examples from beds of a different character
near Thurso, which threw a good deal of light upon the
form of the cartilaginous part of the skeleton.
" Dick was a singular man — very shy and retiring,
and not very easy of access in his bakehouse. Peach
had a very great regard for him. He was intelligent,
and fairly well read on all matters. One fancy he had
was for Egyptian antiquities, and his bakehouse was
all over with Egyptian hieroglyphs. He was a good
botanist, and a very intelligent geologist. He did not,
however, believe in the succession of species, and would
never have done for a Darwinian. His firm conviction
was, that all living creatures had been on this earth at
the same time."
The result of the visit was, that Dick promised to
resume his researches into the fossil fish beds near
Thuiso, and to send the result of his findings to Pro-
fessor Wyville Thomson at Belfast. Winter was
approaching, and the days were shortening. Thus
CHAP. xix. CORRESPONDS WITH DIC&' 325
some time elapsed before he could further communicate
with the Professor. He thus described the result of
his labours to his sister : —
"My spare time," he said, "is very limited; and
seeking fossil fish in stones at this season (February 9,
1863) is like playing at Blind Man's Buff — all a-groping
in the dark ; and it is at the same time attended with
the severest labour. As yet, I have found nothing
extraordinary. I am fairly in for a search amongst the
rocks until the first of April. While the weather is
cold, I don't mind smashing away with a hammer on
the rocks ; but when the air grows mild, the toil
becomes too much — and all for amusement ! "
In the meantime, a letter arrived from Professor
Thomson (February 18, 1863) congratulating Dick upon
recommencing his labours among the rocks. "I will
try to be careful," he said, " but there is great pleasure
in change. An old fact looks so fresh when you look
at it through a nice new green theory ! At all events,
I am right glad that you have taken to the old fishes
again. I never saw in my life a little set from which
such a lot of information could be extracted as from
yours. I think I must come north again for a longer
look at them.
" You have one specimen which could throw a deal
of light upon a question I am working at just now — a
dorsal plate of Coccosteus, which has a sort of double
appearance, as if there had been a thick plate of
cartilage below the bone. I was more taken up at the
time with Asterolepis; so I just glanced at it. But
15*
326 RESEARCHES AMONG THE ROCKS. CHAP, xix
now, when I am writing about Coccosteus, it comes
back to my memory. I do not remember the size
of the specimen, but it would be a great favour if
you could lend it to me for a few days. I do not know
if you ever do such a thing, but it is a common practice
among us working men."
" Can you tell me anything new about Coccosteus ?
All information would be most thankfully received at
present. The next set I mean to take up is Astero-
lepis."
Encouraged by this letter, Dick proceeded with his
researches among the Thurso rocks. After the lapse of
a month, his sister wrote to him to inquire what new
fossils he had found; and he thus (March 10, 1863)
described the results of his labours : —
"When I promised," he said, "to look out for speci-
mens for Professor Thomson, I had faint hopes of
finding anything. I had overhauled almost every
accessible rock from Portskerra to John o' Groat's
House ; and that too so very patiently, that I knew, or
thought I knew, that very little presented itself on the
external surface worthy of the toil of digging. I
resolved, however, to try the sea-shore. I there noted
all the changes that had occurred since the date of my
last visit.
"A furious storm had been hammering upon the
rocks since then. Storms make havoc of stronger
things than ships. What power a stormy sea has ! Its
incessant- thunderings upon the shores often make a
new section of the land. It washes away the bitumen.
CHAP. xix. NEW STRATA EXPOSED. 327
and leaves new strata exposed, so that they may be
traced in layers, one above the other. I now found many
large blocks of rock, which a hundred men could not
move, tossed about as a strong man would toss a foot-
balL
"As the sea had gone thundering along over the
rocky ledges, the waves had torn up and removed many
of the lesser masses, thus exposing to the curious eye
numerous fresh surfaces. I ran eagerly to examine
them ; for there, if anywhere, I knew that I might have
a chance of finding fossils. My luck was, however, very
ordinary. I found many scales of the size of half-
pennies ; bits of bones ; bits of fins ; and little sea-shells.
I found, also, bits of plants, hard and black. In one
spot, a large stone had been driven along, and by its
weight, as it grated on the rocks, had exposed what, to
the inexperienced eye, would seem a trifling bit of bone.
I saw it, and laughed aloud. / knew it ! I knew it,
though not more than the breadth of a penny-piece lay
exposed ! The rest was under the stone.
"I returned home, but not without marking many
wonders. On the following day I returned to the
stone, with my hammer and chisels. After fully an
hour's hard kbour, I dug out the bone, and carried it
home with me. I afterwards cut it neatly with a saw.
It now awaits Professor Thomson. No one can give
him such another bone. A truth ! I have a few small
fishes, fish-heads, plants, shells, and sundry other things,
for the Professor, and I expect more ; but 'tis awful hard
work."
328 HAMMERING IN A SNOWSTORM. CHAP. xix.
Dick also gave the following account of Professor
Thomson's visit to a geological friend in London : " The
Professor very kindly offered to assist me with a few
of my desiderata in dried British plants. I thought I
would try to get a fossil or two for him in return,
before I drew upon his kindness ; and this notion sent
me with renewed zeal to all my old haunts by the
shores. . . . Since two weeks after New Year's day,
I have been working at intervals. My hardihood
has been put to a severe enough test. Only think of
my hammering at the rocks for fossils in a snowstorm ! "
Unfortunately, the fossils which Dick had intended
for Professor Thomson were not sent to him. The
reason of that omission will be explained in the next
chapter.
CHAPTER XX.
DICK COMPELLED TO SELL HIS FOSSILS.
AT the very time that Dick was writing the pre-
ceding letter to his sister, a circumstance occurred
which brought him almost to the verge of ruin.
He had ordered from his flour merchants at Leith
twenty-three bags of fine flour. They were shipped by
the steamer " Prince Consort " in the month of March
1863. The steamers from Leith to Thurso usually call
at Aberdeen and Wick on their way northward. On
entering the harbour of Aberdeen, the " Prince Consort "
struck the platform, and ran along the North Pier,
where the passenger5* were taken off. It must have
been a lubberly affair, as there was no heavy sea on at
the time. It was said that the person who steered the
ship was half-drunk.
When the passengers were taken off, it was
attempted to float away the vessel, but as the tide
was ebbing, that could not be done. The sea eventually
broke her in two. The water entered the hold; and,
though part of the cargo was saved, Dick's flour was
thoroughly drenched.*
* The front part of the ship was floated oft some weeks after. The
hull was got together again. It was patched up and lengthened ; but
the " Prince Consort " finally came to grief, and was totally wrecked.
LOSS OF DICK'S FLOUR.
The ship was insured, but Dick's flour was not.
Though the bill of lading intimated that the flour was
to be delivered in good order — " the act of God, the
Queen's enemies, fire, and all and every other dangers
and accidents of the seas excepted " — yet it was found
difficult to prove that the disaster occurred through the
negligence of those who managed the vessel. Those
whose goods had been lost or damaged had therefore to
sustain the loss. To Dick it was ruinous.
The cost of the flour was only £45 : 13 : 6 ; but, small
though the sum was, Dick had not the money at his com-
mand. What was he to do ? He had never been in debt
in his life. And yet, not only must this debt be paid for,
but he must order more flour in order to carry on his busi-
ness. He had been slowly going to ruin for years past.
He had lost £120 of his former savings ; and now, to use
his own words, the loss of £45 made him " next thing
to a beggar." His only property consisted in his books,
his collection of fossil fishes, his botanical specimens,
his slender stock of furniture, his old-fashioned clothes,
'and his little store of linen. These were of little value.
They could not be sold in time to save him. He must
turn to some one else. Then he bethought him of his
affectionate, generous-hearted sister. She had offered
him money a few years before, which he had refused,
because "coddling and nursing was about the worst
treatment imaginable."
But alas ! the time had come when he could no
longer refuse her generous offer. He wrote to her,
pouring out his griefs, and telling her how he had been
reduced almost to the brink of ruin.
CHAP. xx. BORROWS MONEY. 331
" Have you still," he asked, " that spare money ?
Would you be willing to lend it to me in hope of getting
it back again ? Should you wish it, I would pay you
interest for it. I have long felt the necessity of getting
away out of this miserable place. There is no trade, and
the risk is very great. I have had a sore struggle, and
have often been sadly grieved ; but this is the saddest ill
that has ever come to me. ... I am injured for ever.
I'll never make an extra farthing by my trade here.
The bakers are in swarms now. I am old, and my
strength and sight fail me. Before, I had hardships
quite enough ; but now, this crowns everything. I am
stupid with grief."
Dick's sister earnestly sympathised with him. She
told him to cheer up — to put his shoulder again to the
wheel, and that all might yet go well with him. She
sent him £20 of her spare money. She did so at consi-
derable sacrifice, as she required the money at that
time for special purposes. But she could not stand the
piteous entreaties of her brother, and sacrificed her own
requirements for his good.
Dick plucked up heart again. He replied to his
sister : " I am not easily put down. I am neither in-
active nor desponding. I am trying a way of recover-
ing my loss. Your brother Robert is the most active
and laborious person in the county, and could not live
in idleness for one week. He does not entertain a single
thought of being beat."
The "way of recovering his loss," to which Dick
alluded, was by selling his fossils. He had now a very
332 JOHN MILLER, F.G.S. CHAP. xx.
fine collection ; but when such things are offered in the
market, they are likely to bring very little indeed. Still,
he was of opinion that if his collection was offered to
some scientific man, he might be able to realise enough
to pay his debts.
One of Dick's geological friends was Mr. John
Miller, F.G.S., a gentleman of independent property.
He belonged to Thurso, but lived for the most part in
London. He had a great respect for Dick, and took a
deep interest in his fossil researches. When at Thurso,
Mr. Miller was a frequent visitor at the bakehouse, and
had many keen discussions with Robert Dick and
Charles Peach about geological subjects. He was him-
self a collector, and employed a Mr. Budge to obtain
for him new specimens of fossil fishes. He often con-
sulted Dick as to their interest and value.
When the thought occurred to Dick of selling his
fossils to Mr. Miller — knowing that he was buying them
from Budge — he addressed to him the following letter : —
" Some years since you saw that I was distressed,
and you offered to relieve me. I put your proffered
kindness aside. Since then you have had many oppor-
tunities of knowing and seeing me; and I think you
will allow that anything like complaining was very far
from me. A recent event, however, has ruined me.
The ' Prince Consort,' on attempting to enter Aberdeen
Harbour, has become a total wreck. I had flour on
her, uninsured, to the amount of £45 : 13 : 6.
"Enclosed is a note to Sir Roderick Murchison,
stating the matter, and promising to send him every
CHAP. xx. DICK'S INDEPENDENCE. 333
Old Bed fossil in my possession, if he would in pity
undertake to do anything among the London geologists
by way of making up my loss. Will you in kindness
hand my note to him in a quiet way, and I will
be ever grateful to you ? If you dislike handing my
note to Sir Roderick, put it in the fire, and also this
one to yourself."
We have not Mr. Miller's reply to Dick's letter.
Very likely it may have been intended to cheer him
up. At all events it seems to have contained some
reference to Dick's " independence," for here is Dick's
reply, 27th March 1863 :—
" It is all very good to talk to me aboat ' independ-
ence.' I have laboured among flour bags for the last
thirty-eight years, but I never yet knew an empty bag
to stand upright.
" An honest well-meaning man once kept his horse
on short allowance, and boasted that he had brought
him to live on a straw a day. But when he had
accomplished his object, the horse died.
" A very kind and a very discerning public have, for
the last eighteen years, set me down as independent,
and fed me with chopped straw; and now those
drunken blackguards of the steamer have ruined me.
I am a beggar, not in word, but in fact.
" Previous to writing to you, I applied to my sister
at Haddington. She at one time offered me £48. I
would not take the money. I thought that she might
still have it. She wrote at once, saying that she had it
yet, but was about to use it. I told her never to mind
334 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. CHAP, xx
me, and just to use it in the way intended. She
replied again, and sent me £20.
" The steamer people have sent me twelve bags, out
of twenty-three bags of my flour. I have laboured
hard and sifted it out, and made out six bags of spoilt
flour I With my sister's £20, and with what the flour
may do, and perhaps other resources, I will try and
manage to pay my bill.
"You will please to give orders to the National
Bank accordingly. Reverse your order.* I have not
gone to the bank, and do not intend to go on the errand
you speak of.
" As to my relations with Sir Roderick Murchison,
I am already his debtor for two hundred dried plants,
and rather than be turned out on the wide world, I
would not hesitate one moment in being indebted to his
goodness still further."
He followed this letter with another written on the
next day: —
" On trial," he said, " I find that the flour saved, after
much labour, is mixed with sand ; consequently it will
have to go for little or nothing.
" In my last to you, I thought that I would get on
without troubling any one ; but now I find it all
hopeless.
" I have written to Sir Eoderick Murchison offering
to sell my fossils. I have asked his permission to send
* We infer from this, that Mr. Miller had directed the National
Bank to pay Dick a certain sum on his account. The italics are
Dick's.
CHAP. xx. SELLS HIS FOSSILS. 335
them up to Jermyn Street Museum, that he might give
for them whatever he thinks them worth.
" Surely there is no degradation in this idea.* It
was altogether out of the question to allow the amount
of my loss to fall upon you. No ! I will not do that.
But if you put in a good word for me with Sir
Eoderick about these fossils, I shall feel grateful to
you.
" The fossils are not many, but they are such as Sir
Eoderick has not in his Museum.
" P.S. — If Sir Roderick Murchison declines to pur-
chase my fossils, I'll not be beat, but will offer them to
some other person."
At last the matter was pleasantly settled. Mr.
Miller at once agreed to purchase the fossils, and sent
Dick an order on the National Bank for £46, — the
amount of his loss by the shipwrecked flour. Dick
cordially acknowledged the receipt of Mr. Miller's
letter :—
"I thank you most sincerely. I have to-day (4th
April) received a note from Sir Roderick Murchison.
He will take the fossils ; but I have settled it in my
mind to give them to you. I am afraid that I grieved
you by refusing your gift, but I could not, poor as I am,
take so much money for nothing. I will give all my
fossils to you — every one of them — shells of the boulder
clay and all. There are two or three which Hugh
* Sir Roderick had asked Dick several years before to sell come of
his rarer fossils to the Museum, but Dick preferred making a present
of them.
336 HIS HEAVY HEART. CHAP. xx.
Miller gave me, and these I will add to my own collection
of fossils. I will also give you all those which I had got
for Professor Thomson, and my blessing along with them.
"Of course £46 is too much for them; but the
fossils are worth — what they are worth; and I must
just be contented to stand indebted to your friendship
for the rest. I will label on the fossils the localities in
which they were found, and also pack them carefully.
" I am to write to Sir Roderick by this same post,
telling him that you had heard of my distress, that you
had made a most liberal offer to me for the fossils, and
that I had given them to you. I know — at least 1
trust — that Sir Roderick will see meet not to be
offended at me for giving you the preference. Sir
Roderick will get plenty, and so will you. But one
thing you know, that some of my fossils are altogether
rare, and not in the possession of any other person."
And thus ended the sale of Dick's fossils. He
parted with them with a heavy heart. But he was now
enabled to pay his bill for the lost flour, which he did
on the 29th of April following. How he regretted the
loss of his fossils may be inferred from a letter to his
brother-in-law: — "Unhappily," he said, "I have now
no fossils. I have given them all away. Alas! how
often has my heart beat proudly, when looking over the
figures of jaws in Duff's and Dr. Buckland's books, and
saying, ' 0 yes, these are very fine, but humble as I am,
I have finer than either.' But that is over, and they
are all away. They exist only in remembrance, and I
never hope to find the like again."
CHAP. xx. PREACHING AND STIPEND. 337
Again he felt his business falling off. Unfortunately,
he had tried to make bread of the sifted flour saved from
the wreck ; but the bread was not good, and more
customers left him. " They might have borne with me,"
he said, " a little longer, if they had only known of my
suffering and distress." Afterwards, he said, " If I had
only half as much work as I could do, I should be the
happiest of men. I have more biscuit beside me than I
shall be able to sell in three months. I would toil
willingly, but all is overdone here. It is very difficult
to get work at all. He is a happy man who can make
his living. Shoals of masons and house-wrights are
leaving here by steamer.
" Men are failing rapidly. One is said to have failed
for £3000. He hasn't preached according to his stipend.
You know the story. An elder went to his minister,
and said, ' that his preaching was rather poor ; that's
what people said.' ' Of what do they complain ?' asked
the minister. ' Weel, sir, they're saying that ye dinna
preach half weel.' ' So,' said the minister, ' but ye dinna
consider that ye dinna pay half weel. I preach
according to my stipend. P#y me better, and I'll preach
better ! ' And so, had the people bought better, the
merchant would have sold better, and not a breath would
have been heard about his failure."
Though Dick said that his customers were leaving
him, and that he was thought less of than ever, there
was still some comfort left him. " Nobody heeds me,"
he said ; " and yet Nature is as kindly as ever." The
spring was approaching. Fine balmy days wooed him
338 THE SPRING FLOWERS. CHAP. xx.
to the fields, or led him along the sea-shore. He watched
nature with the eye of a lover. He longed for the coming
of spring ; and when she came he was unspeakably glad.
He looked anxiously for every favourite plant, and knew
it at once as it put its first stem above the ground.
The spring was later in 1863. At the end of April
the fertile stems of the common Field Horsetail were not
yet above ground. He had seen only one rumpled
straggler. Neither Drummond's Horsetail, nor the Wood
Horsetail, had made their appearance. It was not until
about the middle of May that he found them above
ground, — excepting Drummond's Horsetail, which was
always late.
" I went out last Sabbath morning," he said, " up the
river-side, and found the common Field Horsetail and
Wood Horsetail. The Water Horsetail was by the river-
side. The prevailing flowers are dog-violets and yellow
primroses. I found about six specimens of a rare plant
peculiar to the north. It is Ajuga pyramidalis — a plant
I have sent alive, as well as dried, to the south. It is
a great prize with botanists. Of course, I look on them
now with very different feelings from what I once did.
I found also the early Purple Orchis by sixes and sevens.
Also a species of chickweed which I never saw before.
It is a larger and showy species. No other flowers have
come up as yet. But they will come. And when they
come, short will be their stay, and all will be again
desolate."
A few days later, he again goes up the river-side, and
found and plucked numerous specimens of the far-famed
CHAP. xx. THE DAISY. 339
grass — Hierochloe borealis. By this time Dick had
received communications from botanists in nearly every
part of the country, asking for dried specimens of the
grass. He also went to the cliffs on Dunnet Head, to his
ferneries on Ben Dorery and the Eeay hills, to see how
the ferns were growing that he had planted — ferns that
would still be growing when he and his friend Peach
" were both out of time."
" I have discovered," he says one day, " another plant
wonder ! Some time ago I found a new daisy. I have
now found another. It has twenty-four little heads,
and the stalks are longer than the other. I sought all
over the grass field on which it grew, and could not find
another. I never read of such a daisy being found wild.
A daisy with thirteen heads, and another with twenty-
four heads, are most extraordinary. But ' little things
are great to little minds/"
To his brother-in-law he said : — " So you have been
amongst gardeners, and found a daisy. Still, the wild
one is, I think much finer. It is tall, and being single,
it makes a more natural show. I have hastily pencilled
it off [giving a drawing of the wild daisy]. I could have
done it much better, — only it is Saturday afternoon, and
I am busy.
" The daisy is a great favourite with the poets ; Burns
speaks of it as the ' wee, modest, crimson-tipped flower.'
Another says of it, ' the bright flower, whose home is
everywhere.' Another —
" ' The rose has but a summer reign,
The daisy never dies.'
340 MARINE PLANTS. CHAP, xx
And still another : —
" ' Not worlds on worlds, in phalanx deep
Need we, to prove a God is here ;
The daisy, fresh from winter's sleep,
Tells of His Power in lines as clear.' "
As far on as the month of June, the weather was cold
and wet. There was a good deal of hail, and one day of
almost continuous snow. It is true, the snow melted
as it fell, and did no other harm than giving the grass a
brownish colour ; though the country folks said the dis-
tant hills were covered with snow.
Dick went to Loch Duran, some seven miles off, to
see the Bullrush, rather a rare plant in the far north ;
and besides the Lake Bullrush he found a much rarer
plant, the Lapland Eeed. He could find the plant no-
where else. Six miles inland he also found the Baltic
Rush. " How it got there," he said, "I cannot make out."
He was recommended to try his hand among the
marine plants. "I have little doubt," he observed,
"that something new might be discovered among the
weeds along the sea-shore. Solomon says, ' All things
are full of labour.' But I'm ower auld for the labour,
and as for the honour, if I get a splitting headache and
a sweating cough for my pains whilst dabbling in a salt-
water pool, perhaps the cost to me would be greater
than the honour. The poor animal is overladen already,
and to put on more weight would probably squeeze the
life out of him altogether."
" In fact," he says to Mr. John Miller, " I fear that in
pursuing researches among the rocks I have not been
CHAP. xx. NA TIVE ROSES. 341
half cautious; for during June I have been suffering
severely from rheumatism, — to an extent greater than
ever I did before. ' The vengeance ' has got hold of both
my feet, — so much so that I have a difficulty in walking.
That, you may be sure, was gloomy for me. I grumbled
to be compelled to walk slow, especially when the spirit
within said, Forward"
And yet, when sufficiently well, Dick immediately
went to the fields again to gather ferns, grasses, plants,
and wild roses. One day he says to his brother-in-law,
"I have had a ramble sixteen miles out and sixteen
miles home again for a small fern not so long as your
little finger. I would not have gone so far, but that the
fern would not come to me. I had another ramble
twelve miles away and twelve miles home again, and all
for nothing. The plant I went to get was not growing
for want of moisture."
Dick had many applications for native roses. He
sent a number of them to Professor Babington of Cam-
bridge ; but he thought that the professor's opinion as
to the species to which they belonged was not quite
correct. Writing to a friend he said, " The genus Rosa
is a difficult one, even for the most experienced botanist.
It is hardly possible to tell the different species by their
leaves alone. Their fruit is a far better test. For
example, the leaves of the spiny or thorny rose may be
found of various sizes — from an eighth of an inch to
more than an inch long. They differ so much in their
hairiness and smoothness that it would almost puzzle a
conjuror to define which was which. Some years since
16
342 A SPERM WHALE. CHAP. xx.
I sent a packet of dry roses and leaves to Professor
Balfour, who sent them to Professor Babington in
England. The latter gave the best verdict he could,
and yet I have no faith in it. For example, he told me
that he believed one of them to be Rosa involuta.
Now, Rosa involuta is found in the Western Isles, and
a stranger might conclude readily enough that the plant
grew in our neighbourhood. I have ever since been
watching the bush from which I took the specimen ; but
I cannot form any other opinion than that it is a variety
only of the Rosa spinosissima, or the Thorny Eose. The
leaves of the said bush might pass for the leaves of Rosa
involuta, but the fruit will not. The fruit is invariably
the fruit of the Thorny Eose."
In September 1863, Dick received a letter from
Professor Owen, stating that he had been informed that
a large sperm whale had been cast ashore near Thurso,
and that, as he should like to secure the bones, he would
feel obliged to Mr. Dick if he would make the necessary
inquiries about the nature of the whale — whether it was
a sperm whale or not. He added that Sir Eoderick
Murchison had informed him that Mr. Dick was the
most likely man in Thurso to help him on the occasion.
It seems that the whale was cast ashore at Sandside,
about thirteen miles from Thurso. Dick worked all
night with the object of starting on foot next morning.
But at two o'clock it began to rain, and it rained con-
tinuously for about a fortnight. What with his pains
and his rheumatism, he could scarcely go out of doors
during the interval. " Even if I went there," he said,
CHAP. xx. DICK'S CORRESPONDENTS. 343
" it would only have been — to guess. But I gathered
all the information I could get about the whale, and sent
it to Professor Owen."
Dick still kept up a considerable correspondence,
though it was for the most part forced upon him. He
was indisposed, amidst his troubles, to open new corre-
spondence; though those who had corresponded with him
once, would not allow him to forget them : his letters
were so interesting, humorous, and instructive. He was
often invited to pay visits far from home ; but that was,
of course, impossible. Few of his correspondents knew
of his poverty. Very likely, many of them thought him
to be a man of independent position. Mr. Notcutt of
Cheltenham thought that Dick wished the correspondence
with him to cease. But he wrote to him again and
again, until he replied. "I shall ever feel grateful to
you," said Mr. Notcutt, " for the noble series of Old Eed
fossils which, through your liberality, I possess. I
append a list of most of the things (dried flowering
plants) which I have for you." And at length Dick
was thawed into continuing the correspondence. Of
course Mr. Notcutt knew nothing of the pecuniary
struggles that Dick was then passing through.
Numerous requests were made to Dick for exchanges
of plants and fossils. Amongst his correspondence we
find letters from Dr. L. Lindsay, lichen ologist, Perth;
Mr. John Sim, botanist, Perth ; Mr. Roy, botanist,
Aberdeen ; Mr. Alfred Bell, Bloomsbury Street, London ;
Mr. John Backhouse, York ; Mr. Henry Coghill, Liver-
pool ; Mr. George Henslow, son of Professor Henslow •
344 MR. PRINGLE'S LETTER. CHAP. xx.
and from Mr. Tarrison of the Eegistrar-General's Office,
Melbourne. The principal applications made to him
were for fossils from the Old Bed Sandstone, and for
specimens of the Hierochloe 'borealis which Dick had
discovered so many years before on the banks of the
river Thurso. Mr. Pringle of the Farmer's Gazette,
Dublin, in acknowledging the receipt of a specimen,
addressed Dick in the following letter : —
"I gave the specimens of the Holy Grass to Dr.
Moore of the Botanic Gardens. He expressed himself
much gratified with the same, and stated that he would
like to correspond with you. I send by book-post a
copy of his Notes of a Botanical Tour in Norway and
Sweden, which will likely interest you. I must repeat
what I said to you — that I think it is a great pity, nay
more, a shame, that a man of your abilities and research
should be buried alive, as you are and have been. Why
not come out as an author on those subjects with which
you are so conversant ? I hope yet to see Robert Dick's
name taking its proper place among the list of British
scientific men — far above the names of some who oc-
cupy a large share of public attention, but whose chief
claim to notoriety consists in an unbounded com-
mand of cheek, and of a still more unenviable gift of
the gab."
But it was too late for Eobert Dick to give his
thoughts to the world in writing. For one thing, he
was too modest. He was about the last person to wish
to see his name in print. He was always complaining
of the smallness of his knowledge, even about subjects
LAST VERSES. 345
that lie had studied the most. " The more I know," he
said, "the more I feel my ignorance. Knowledge
seems to retreat before me." He often quoted the
words of Athena's wisest son — " The most I know is,
nothing can be known." And yet he said, " There is a
satisfaction in getting on in knowledge, which those
only can imagine who have risen early in searching for
it."
He still continued to write verses, probably as a
relief from business troubles. Mr. Peach says that he
wrote verses down to the end of his life. The following
are extracted from some verses written in 1863, when
in the midst of his sorrow and poverty. The verses
commence, " 0 waft me, o'er the deep Hue sea I " and pro-
ceed to the seventh stanza, which thus begins : —
" O waft me o'er, and let me roam
Her untilled plains, her fertile soil,
Where weary wanderers find a home,
And live by honest, manly toil!
By manly toil they rear a home —
Nor curst with want, nor crushed by care;
Nor grasping greed, nor grinding down,
Nor sad and weary struggle there.
" 0 waft me o'er ! 0 waft me o'er !
In yon fair land there's peace and rest,
And toiling-room for thousands more,
With blissful Hope to soothe the breast.
With grief, with care, by sorrows prest,
Of fruitless toil, my heart is sick.
O endless dreams, in horrors drest,
Of cruel want, when old and weak!
346 THE SLEEPLESS MAN. CHAP. xx.
" O waft me o'er ! O waft me o'er !
Yon ship is strong ; the sea is still ;
Nor care I though a tempest roar,
And every billow rolls a hill !
Let swelling sea-waves roar their fill,
And dash till crested white with foam,
"Tis sweet as murmuring mountain rill,
To soothe a weary spirit Home."
During his troubles Dick was a sleepless man. He
wandered up and down the little town at night, looking
in at the little burying-ground of St. Peter's, where the
fathers of Thurso lay buried. The town was asleep.
Not a footstep was to be heard, save those of the sleep-
less man plodding round the graveyard, and from thence
to his neighbouring bakehouse in Wilson's Lane. Night
was always a time of thought for Dick. " It is so
pleasant," he says in one of his letters, " getting up at
nights to see the stars. Last night was beautiful, and
the moon was a great pleasure. It is impossible, when
looking at it, to prevent oneself falling into a dream of
a far better world than ours."
"Do you know," he said to his brother-in-law,
" that I am a firm believer in the unseen world ? Mil-
lions of spiritual creatures walk the earth unseen, both
when we wake and when we sleep. I have no doubt
that they exercise a watching care over us, and often
warn us of coming evil. Since my sister Jane died, I
never dreamt of this but once. What people think
often about, they commonly dream of. On that occa-
sion, my sister, I thought, came to me, clothed from
head to foot with roses ! I smiled when I saw her, with
THE UNSEEN WORLD.
347
pleasure, and awoke with the reflection that my sister,
knowing my taste for flowers, had chosen that way of
expressing her happiness. . . . You may smile at
this, and set it down as Eobert's silly superstition ; but
of one thing you may be assured, that unseen beings
care for you, and that nothing can happen to you with-
out the permission of our heavenly Father."
KUl.N.S OF ST. PETERS, THUl
CHAPTER XXI.
DICK RECOMMENCES A COLLECTION OF FOSSILS.
" I AM not beat yet!" said Dick. " I have resolution,
will, and ability to work. Let me try again."
His flour was wrecked on the 9th of March. A
few months later (May 18th), we find him by the sea-
shore, about six miles east of Thurso, where he had found
his last fossil fish. He had to a certain extent got rid
of his rheumatism. " I have got the use of my feet," he
says, " and am blest in comparison. It was terrible to
be hampered like a hen with a string round its leg.
" Though I did not discover much, yet I am sur-
prised that I found so much. I have dug out of the
rocks what no one else ever got out of them. It is
cheerless, cold work. Lonely work too. But no good
work can be done in company."
He next visited a hill near Thurso, from two to three
hundred feet high, where at one spot the fossil fish lie
by the score, fish over fish, packed like herrings in a
barrel. With the insight of the poet, he saw the
sepulchres of the past beneath his feet.
" Tell me, thou dust beneath my feet,
Thou dust that once had breath, —
Tell me how many mortals meet
In this small hill of death.
CHAP. xxi. THE WORLD A GRAVEYARD. 349
" By wafting winds and flooding rains,
From ocean, earth, and sky,
Collected here, the frail remains
Of slumbering millions lie.
" Like me, thou elder-born of clay
Enjoyed the cheerful light ;
Bore the brief burden of a day,
And went to rest at night." *
" For my own part," he says, " I would never have
sought after these fish, did not a feeling of wondrous
astonishment take possession of me. Every time I
think of them, I can scarcely understand how they are
there." And again, " I often feel very much puzzled
about those dead fish. I mean as to whether they lived
before or since the creation and fall of man. Did
Death exist before man's disobedience ? . . . One thing
is certain : the present habitable world is a graveyard ! "
The fossil fish heretofore discovered had for the most
part been broken. Bucklers, scales, bits of fish of
various kinds, had been found fossilised, and from these
drawings had been made; but parts of the drawings
were guess-work. Dick determined to find, if he could,
an entire fossil fish, and proceeded to make many
searches for it. He thus picturesquely describes one of
his journeys for this purpose : —
" On Monday I made a large day's work (that is, of
bread and biscuit making and baking), intending to set
out early on Thursday morning. The morning was
rainy, but by eleven o'clock I was able to set out on
* Montgomery.
16*
350 A PLATFORM OF DEATH. CHAP. xxi.
my two hours' walk to the neighbouring hill-top. After
a brief interval I cleared off the rubbish, and began to
turn up dead fish. They were all rotten. Many
thousands had died and been buried here a long time
ago. The mud had choked them, and buried up their
DISTANT VIEW OF MORVEN AND MAIDEN PAP.
bodies, fish over fish, in whole myriads. Thousands of
thousands must have died at the same time. ' This
platform of death,' as Hugh Miller phrases it, extends
for many miles.
" Standing upright and looking round, I can see
"VVeydale some miles away; and there is reason to
believe that the beds of fish on this hill and Weydale
CHAP. xxi. A DISTANT VIEW. 351
are one and the same. It is true, they have been cut
across, and the rocks have been disturbed and lifted up
— twisted, broken, bent, and what not — in a thousand
different ways ; and yet I have no doubt they were once
continuous. What numbers ! I turned them up, rotten,
by twos and threes. . . .
" I stood up to rest me, and looked around. It
was a beautiful day. The sun was shining brightly.
Far south I saw Skerry Ben and Morven. Skerry Ben
had hardly any snow wreaths on it, and thin vapour
seemed to be rolling away from its summit. Looking
over all the intervening space, the country seemed very
bare. Nothing broke the uniformity of the prospect
until the eye rested on the Dorery Hills, and these
seemed black and uninteresting.
" Seaward, all was in motion. The Orkney hills on
the north were capped by clouds, which rolled along
their summits. Not very far west frowned a dark
precipice, at least 200 feet high, at whose base the sea
waves were toiling and grinding.
" I went to work again, — raising up thin layers of
rock, and turning out rotten fish ; but nothing of any
worth. As I got down the stone got firmer, and the
fish were sounder. But where was my dream ? I had
fancied that I should find the big fossil. I knew that
part of it — indeed two parts of it — were found in this
neighbourhood; and I thought that perhaps I might
alight on a whole one. But no ! There was no fossil
for me, such as I wanted ; and having raised up a stone
with three tolerably good fishes on it, I thought that I
had better wend my way home."
352 DEAD FISH. CHAP. xxr.
Disappointed but not baffled, Dick continued his
researches. " On Monday morning, after my work was
over, I walked out some two miles to a quarry by the
side of the road, where I knew fish bones abounded.
It is not a regular quarry, but a hole out of which stone
for road-metal had been taken.
" ' Imperious Caesar, dead and turned to clay,
Might stop a hole to keep the wind away.'
Who knows ? One thing is certain — it is so with
the poor fish. Nearly all the houses in Thurso are
built of dead fish. All the ploughed fields are fields of
the dead. The living plants feed on the dead, and so it
is everywhere. Was it ever otherwise ? Once I believed
in a world without death — hideous death. . But it is a
sad thought that death exists over all creation. Some,
however, say that death is necessary and a blessing;
because, without it, there could be no progress. Alas !
is death then a necessity ?
"I went to the quarry by the road-side, and was
grubbing away for old bones, to the no small amusement
of the passers-by. No doubt they thought me mad.
Some looked curious ; some looked pitiful. At last one
of them came and planted himself opposite me.
"'Hae ye lost onything there?' 'No.' 'Then
what are ye seeking?' 'Auld banes.' 'Auld banes?1
' Ay, auld fish-banes.' ' 0, there's none o' them there :
I'm the man that quarried the hole : there's nae fish-
banes there.' ' If ye like to believe me, gudeman, the
banes are abundant.' 'Na!' 'Oh yes; it's an auld
bury ing-ground.' 'Eh!' ' Yes ; look at that.'
CHAP. xxr. ANCIENT BURYING-GROUND. 353
" At this the man came running up the brae, and I
handed him a stone all covered with scales. ' Eh !'
said he, and then he took the stone. He looked at it.
'Weel,' he at length observed, 'that's trash — nothing
but trash.' ' It's an auld burying-ground, I assure ye/
said I; 'it's of great antiquity.' He threw down the
stone and walked away solemnly. I have no doubt he
thought me crazy — perhaps something worse.
" I got so many heads, jaws, Coccosteus bones, and
such like, that I nearly killed myself in carrying home
the stones. My arms are still sore, and my breast is
sore. For all that, I would carry as heavy a load to-
morrow."
A few days later he says : —
" I have again been to the limestone quarry on the
hill, and have brought thence one fossil fish and some
half-dozen of broken bits of other fossils, and only one
moss from the waterfall.
I half filled my hat with the Fern Blechnum, boreale,
or Northern Hard Fern, which I found growing in beauty
in sheltered spots.
" I saw tree stumps in peat banks, molehills, muir-
fowl, and lapwings, — and snow wreaths on hill-sides
and around lochs. I had a long, long, beautiful walk.
" Hugh Miller, to his dying day, insisted that nothing
organic lived in the north of Scotland previous to the
deposition of the Old Red conglomerate. The Old Bed con-
glomerate was to him the fossiliferous base in the north.
He knew and acknowledged the Silurians of the south of
Scotland; but he argued that Durness limestone was of
354 HUGH MILLER'S " BASE." CHAP, xxi,
Old Eed age. Professor Nicol said it was of mountain lime-
stone. Sir Roderick Murchison has classed it Silurian.
" When Hugh Miller was in Orkney he saw the Old
Eed conglomerate at Stromness, and followed the fos-
siliferous rocks along the sea-shore upwards, until he
found a fossil bone, which he termed the " Nail," and
he counted how many feet this "nail" was above the
Old Red conglomerate. He considered this " nail " the
oldest bone in Scotland. So he said. He knew of none
older at that time. The Durness fossils being all shells
and molluscous animal remains, Hugh probably thought
that nothing of a bony nature existed in Scotland older
than his Stromness " nail." And this bone was a fish
remain, many hundred feet above the Old conglomerate.
"But what would Hugh have thought of fish
underlying Old Red conglomerate? Fish remains older
than conglomerate ? Alas, poor Hugh ! such is actually
the case. The other day I turned up and brought
home with me to Thurso the remains of fish that had
lain buried below the Old Red conglomerate ! But
Hugh had seen the ' Base ' in many places, and pre-
ferred retaining the old opinion.
" I believe the opinion entertained by our highest
geologists is, that there is Old Red conglomerate of
many ages ; whereas Hugh Miller considered it as of
one age — one great formation. He says that it extends
from the Grampians to Orkney, and from Peterhead to
the Western Isles ; that it lies in a continuous stratum
of variable thickness; and that no fish lived then in
what is now Scotland. A great mistake !
STILL FINDING FOSSILS.
" I have found pieces of clay slate in the Old Red
conglomerate; that is, the slate was in existence before
the other was formed.
" Those fish I found the other day lived before the
Old Eed conglomerate was wholly made. A bed with
rolled granite ground down into sandy gravel overlies a
bed of limestone, and the limestone deposit overlies a
bed of limy clay, which contains the fish remains.
" It is a beautiful spot where the dead fish he buried.
All is quiet and still. No sound of any kind, but the
wind whistling along the heather. In summer time the
royal eagle comes to build beside the waterfall, and to
prey upon the muirfowl. Death's doings are still
about us, and who knows how long it is since they first
began?"
A few days later, he says : — " Some time ago, one of
the flagmen showed me a fossil which he did not under-
stand. It was a fine one, and only your humble servant
knew what it was. I had, twenty years ago, furnished
Hugh Miller with such a fossil, and this was the only
instance of another turning up anywhere. This was
found in the quarries. I sent word to London, and Mr.
John Miller bought it. It gave me pleasure to find
Hugh's word corroborated. I have not the least doubt
that the entire fish will some day turn up, and then it
will be seen who was speaking truth."
Dick also searched the rocks at Murkle Bay, where
he had found the big fossil buckler. One day he dis-
covered a rather large bone sticking out of the mass,
He went at it with his hammer and chisel. He laboured
356 AN ENTIRE FISH WANTED. CHAP. xxr.
for nearly four hours, and then he left it to return
again on the following day. To get it out, required
several weeks of hammering and chiseling. He had to
go to the bottom of the bone to get it out. He did not
mind the amount of labour he gave to a fossil, provided
he could get it out whole. He once worked at a parti-
cular bone for six months. The fossil, on this occasion,
was a prize. It measured one foot two inches long, by
six inches across.
" At the same time," he said, " I don't neglect my
employment. Whether I get out the bone or not, I
always make sure of doing my day's work first. I never
yet trifled a moment for anything. If I want playing
at fossils, I merely rob myself of my rest and sleep.
"It is now twenty years in March last (his letter
was dated 7th September 1863) since I found a bone so
large. And not only have I got so large a bone, but
what is a step in advance, something new. ... I
have sawn the four sides of the stem, and also taken
four inches off the bottom thickness. It is now
portable. It can be lifted. Before, it could not be
moved without taking with you the immense rock in
which it was imbedded.
" It is very odd, that in twenty years I have never
found an entire fish. At that time I found two of those
fishes, but much broken up. Hugh Miller was satisfied
that they were the same as he figured in his book.
That idea is doubted now by some London men ; and
here am I laughing at them and wishing that I could
find another fossil fish. Amen ! may it come soon."
CHAP. xxi. DIGGING AMONGST THE ROCKS. 357
Two months later he wrote to his brother-in-law : —
" Perhaps you are thinking that I am busy with
those bones on the rocks here; but no! the last bone
nearly killed me with fatigue and cold. Besides, I cut
my hands, and cut my little finger. Qf all the labour I
ever tried, there is none like digging on the sea-shore —
crouching down on one's knees in a hole, bothered with
incoming water, and hammering, and picking, and
sawing all the while.
" I have got another curious evidence about that fish,
which Hugh Miller never saw. Perhaps he dreamt of
it. Most certainly he spoke of a time when the bone
which he figured would yet be found.
" After all, there will be no satisfying of those men's
doubts, until a whole fossil fish, of that particular kind,
turns up. I wish I was the lucky finder of it ; then I
would laugh !
''Indeed, I don't think I understand the fossil
myself. How little do we really know ; above all, how
little do we know accurately ! No entire fish has turned
up yet; only broken and disjointed pieces. And such
pieces ! Bones a foot and four inches across. No one
can credit it, unless he sees them. Perhaps I'll yet
turn up a whole fish! . . . Similar bones to these
two bones beside me no human eye ever looked upon
until August 1863."
Dick continued at his digging. On the 31st October
he writes : — " During the bypast week I have been
unexpectedly no less than three different times digging
amongst those dead fish and plants in the rocks on the
358 SEARCH FOR A BONE. CHAP. xxi.
shores here. I had no intention of being there more
than once ; but once at it, I could not get off without
suffering a great deal. ... I can walk for miles
upon miles over these dead fish, almost without drawing
a sigh ! Once I .felt differently. I was then lost in
wonder and mute astonishment. Now 'it is quite an
everyday affair. If I think at all, I think they are
part of the still existing creation.
" Many years ago, when Hugh Miller was alive and
in his glory, I had seen in a pool of water, bound fast
in the rock, a bone. It was a broken bone. The pool
was connected with three other pools of salt water.
To get at the bone at the bottom of the pool it was
necessary to throw out the water from all the pools. I
boggled at the labour. . . . On Monday last I got
up at midnight, toiled at my work, and was off by
midday to the sea-shore. After half an hour's walking,
I arrived at the place, took off my hat, my coat, my
neckcloth, tucked up my sleeves, and with the assist-
ance of a flat stone I threw out the water. This took
me an hour's incessant work.
"Well, I cut out the fossil bone, and another frag-
ment of bone. Strange to tell, under that bone I
found indications of another bone. I toiled away and
cleared off the stone — saw that the bone was a good
bone, and hoped that it was something new. Beturned
to it a second day; cut deep round the bone; got
wearied out; tried to force it up, and broke my pick
handle.
" I returned to it two days after, and spent about an
CHAP. xxi. DIGGING IN DECEMBER. 85'J
hour in throwing out the salt water. I was awfully
tired. I had to go down upon my knees on the hard
stone, and was bothered with the salt water, and the
wind and rain too. Well, I dug, and dug, and dug, and
at last the stone and the bone rose up of themselves.
I could hardly convey them home. I was tired and
sore ; but I am as well as ever again."
He still went on digging among the rocks as late as
the month of December. " The weather," he says, " has
been very stormy and wet. I have been fretting rather
impatiently. I had settled it in my mind to go out and
get a fossil out of the rocks in order to vindicate the
truth told by Hugh Miller, or rather, my own truth ;
for it was from me that Hugh got his fossils. It is true
that I did not name them. Hugh Miller did. He
called this fossil Asterolepis, a fish intermediate between
Glyptolepis and Holoptychius.
" Since Hugh died, some cantankerous people have
printed and made known that the scales figured by
Hugh belonged to Glyptolepis, and the head bones
belonged to Coccosteus — thus plainly intimating that
Hugh had blundered, or that I had misled him ; not
knowing that in so doing they proclaimed their own
ignorance, — that the head, bones, scales, and fin-rays
were found together — stuck together ; and thus proving
indisputably that they belonged to one fish. It is
amazing what ignorance these London men exhibit.
They get their views from books. They should study
nature on the spot. They did not know that Hugh
came to Thurso and examined and saw the fossils in
360 ORDER OF CREA TION.
their beds for himself. He saw one of those fish lying
in a rocky ledge, but boggled at the toil necessary to
raise it up. However, after he went to Edinburgh he
wrote to me and asked me to raise it up, which I did ;
and he tells it in his Book. And yet ignorance says
that Hugh's scales belonged to one fish, and the head
bones to another !
" Four days ago I read in an Edinburgh paper a
paragraph in which it was said that a Mr. Salter had
been lecturing 'on the Order of Creation.' Towards
the close of the paragraph Mr. Salter is represented as
saying : ' Notwithstanding what had been said by the
lamented Hugh Miller, no true evidence of the existence
of a fish, or any vertebrate animal, was to be found in
rocks below the level of the Old Eed Sandstone.' Now,
this was not fair. All that Hugh said was on the
authority of those who said they knew. The bones I
found in August vindicate the truth as stated by Hugh,
and also the bones I found in October. I sent Sir
Roderick, in May 1863, one of the same bones with the
same kind .of scale sticking on it. I sent him also two
jaws, with many scales sticking on them."
A few days later he says : — " I am not satisfied
with that paragraph in the Edinburgh paper. It surely
could not be Mr. Salter that inserted it. No one is
better acquainted with geological matters than he is.
Sir Roderick's right-hand man ! What am I to think ?
Has Agassiz been imposed upon ? Has Sir Eoderick
published a dream ? ' No true evidence of a fish or any
vertebrate animal in rocks at a lower level than the Old
CHAP. xxi. WORKING AMONGST ICE. 361
Red Sandstone!' Has some reporter erred? Or is
there an error in the classification of the rocks ? There's
the point.
" Well, in vain did poor Hugh toil, and believe in
many creations. How sad to think that he ruined his
health for a shadow. And yet, three thousand years
ago, all was said to be Vanity.
" I am anxious for a trial for a fossil fish to elucidate
the point called in question ; but I am not sheep enough
to strike a single blow in wind and rain. And yet I
am very anxious to get out at the rocks. I shall have
to carry a weighty hammer and wedges, and to work
hard besides."
So soon as the storm abated, Dick resumed • his
researches among the rocks. He went out with
" hammers and chisels and a'." He began on the 4th
of January 1864. It was hard frost. The rocky ledges
were covered with thick ice, while long ice-pillars hung
from every cliff. The sea was hushed and smooth, its
ripples quietly laving the shore. Dick worked for three
hours at the place where he had settled down, but he
got nothing important — only three fish snouts, some half-
heads of fish, jugular plates, gill covers, and fish scales in
any quantity. All these he had known twenty years
before.
Two days after he returned to the rocks. It was
still hard frost. He found nothing new, only fish jaws,
a half-head, and scales innumerable. He returned on
the 12th and 14th of January, changing his ground
from time to time ; but the results were the same. He
362 STILL SEARCHING. CHAP. xxi.
found the smiddy hammer very heavy, especially after
working with it for some hours. But still he went on.
On the 20th of January he made his fifth trial. He
was on the rocks before daylight. It was still hard
frost. " I had chosen," he says, " new ground. I had
great expectations. The tide was ebbing fast; and
thundering, great, long, high rolling breakers, were dash-
ing themselves on the rocks. And then what foam ! I
was obliged to wait until the sea had gone down. In
the meantime I tried a new place. I raised three large
lumps of rock. I split them, and found three rusty,
ugly heads of Dipterus and scales. Nothing new.
Then I went back to the real place.
" When I got there, I laid down my weights and
reconnoitred. Alas ! I saw no hope. The ledges were
rotten. I worked until one o'clock at midday, and got
only scales, two rotten heads, a bit of plant, and a bit
of bone. On my way home I tried another and a very
hard spot. I worked there until two o'clock, but found
only scales, fin-rays, and gill-covers. I was now
chagrined, tired, and hungry! So I returned home,
weary and heavy laden." Next morning he was up at
four, working at his trade.
In this way did Dick go on, trying to perfect the
knowledge with which he was already partially
acquainted, and also trying to acquire new knowledge
by his persevering labour among the rocks, with hammer,
and pick, and chisels, from day to day. He thus
gradually accumulated a new store of fossils. The
Asterolepis which he discovered, and which afterwards
CHAP. xxi. ARRANGEMENT OF ROCKS, 363
became the property of Mr. John Miller, F.G.S., was
the finest that was ever found *
Dick continued to read the papers on geology which
appeared in the newspapers, and particularly in the
Athenceum. He could no longer afford to huy books,
but he was not a man to believe passively in the views
of others, especially when they seemed to be contrary
to his own observation of facts. He had a keen eye,
and believed what he saw rather than what he read.
He had many a hard fight with Peach and Mr. Miller
of London, as to the order of creation.
" There has been no new arrangement," he says, " of
the rocks in which the fossil fish have been found. Sir
Eoderick has figured the new fish as Silurian fossils, -and
the Silurian rocks are older than Old Eed Sandstone;
that is, they exist at a lower level. ... It is true that,
after the Durness discoveries, Hugh Miller for a time
resisted the views of Sir Eoderick as to a new classi-
fication of the rocks of the north-west of Scotland.
Hugh could not bear the idea of his favourite Old Eed
giving way to the Cambrian — a deposit older even than
the lower Silurian.
" For my own part, I care not much what name or
names geologists may give to the various rocks, or the
time that was occupied in the accumulation of their
respective strata. They were, doubtless, made in suc-
cession, after longer or shorter intervals of time. About
eleven miles from Thurso there is a small precipice
which clearly illustrates the subject. Standing in front
* We state this fact on the authority of Dr. Traquair.
364 ROLLED PEBBLES ON MORVEN. CHAP. xxi.
of it, I can see with my eyes and handle with my hands
the successive strata of which it was originally com-
posed. First, close at my feet, is a bed of rolled pebbles.
That is the lowest exposed formation. Next, over that,
is a bed of limestone. Then a bed of the ordinary
Caithness flagstone; and over that a bed of boulder
clay.
" Now, on looking attentively at the rolled pebbles,
I find that they are similar to the rock on which they
rest. Consequently the hills hereabout were as much
stone as they are now before the pebbles were rolled.
Next, we can see that these pebbles were rolling about
in the lime, for they are crusted with lime just as almond
sweetmeats are with sugar. Consequently the lime-
stone was once soft and loose, and the pebbles had sunk
amongst the lime, which now lies above them. Then a
soft muddy clay was brought by water, and laid above
the lime. The whole was hardened into stone. Was it
beneath or above the water ? That is a question ; but
stone it became.
"And then another change occurred. Some great
power came into action, breaking up the rocks, and
making clay out of them, in some places a hundred feet
thick. We know that the clay had become stone, foi
we often find great lumps of stone amongst the boulder
clay, which forms the surface soil of the county."
There was another thing that excited Dick's observa-
tion. When at the top of Morven, 2331 feet above the
sea, he was much struck by the bed of rolled pebbles that
graces its top and north front. "How long had they
-HAP. XXT. CLIFFS OF STONY CLA YS. 365
been there ? How high the sea must once have stood
if they were rolled up by it yonder! Otherwise, the
hill must have got a great lift since it was at sea-
level!"
All these things surprised and astonished Dick. He
pondered them over in his mind. They spoke of a long-
past era, when the sea had washed its billows over
Caithness, and tossed about the rocks as if they were
playthings. Morven had been submerged, or its summit
had formed but a little island, along which the sea had
laid down its bed of rolled pebbles.
" I have examined attentively," he said, " the cliffs of
stony clays along the valley in which the river Thurso
runs. They are so stern-looking, so bare, so densely
compacted, that a man working with pick and shovel
could make but small progress there. Indeed, they are
almost as hard as solid rock. Hence it is that fossil
shells still exist undecayed in those clays. They are
perfectly impervious. No moisture penetrates them.
No decay goes on. And then every stone, and piece of
stone, is all grooved and scratched, and furrowed and
polished, in a way that running water alone could never
have done. No tossing of waves, though ever so violent,
could do it. No ! If ice and icebergs did not do it, what
did ? None can tell. One thing is certain, that those
clays are formed out of the rocks on which they lie.
And many pieces of rocks are found among them that
have travelled far, — rocks from as far as Skye ! "
A lecture having been delivered at Haddington on
geology by Mr. Finlayson, a copy of the newspaper con-
866 METAMORPHIC ROCKS. CHAP. xxi.
taining the report was sent to Dick, on which he made
the following observations : —
" I fear that he does not hit the assertors of ' the
development hypothesis ' so very hard as he imagines.
He must know that no geologist says or imagines that
all the metamorphic rocks * were so formed at one and
the same period of time. Though life may be oblite-
rated over wide areas, — when the fiery tempest was over
in one sea or part of a sea, the organisms would again
find their way back to their old abodes. The meta-
morphic rocks are of many ages ; and no one can say
that, though the mud was changed and became siliceous,
the overlying water was unfit to support life. It was
the dead they are supposed to have obliterated; the
living might have lived on, either in that locality or in
some other.
" Hugh Miller tells us of a ship-captain who sailed
for days through a shoal of dead floating haddocks ; but
haddocks are still caught and sold. Hugh Miller was
a splendid writer, but he was so highly imaginative as
to be rather unsafe to rely upon. Besides, one soon gets
tired of all geological reasoning. There is nothing on
which the mind of the reader can lay hold upon and
rest. 'What is truth?' is an old question; but no
man in his senses would seek for it in the books of
" Metamorphic action has arisen from many produc-
* Metamorphic, literally changed in form ; applied to rocks and rock
formations which seem changed from their original condition by some
external or interna1 agency. — PAGE'S Handbook of Geology.
CHAP. xxi. CHANGES OF SUBSTANCE. 367
ing causes. There have been changes from the action of
heat, and changes without heat. To understand changes
from the effects of heat, I suppose we must go to Ice-
land. To understand changes without heat, we have
only to look around us.
" Last summer, I went one evening down to Murkle
Bay. At one corner of the shore, at the west side of the
bay, was a pile of sand. It had been accumulated, and
lay on the land in a mass, blown up gradually in old
times — no one knows how old. The sand was mixed
with broken shells and small pebbles. Water had been
finding its way through and amongst the sand. The
shells had partly decayed. The lime [of the shells] had
set, and bound the sand and pebbles, in some places,
into a solid mass. In fact, it had became a stone — a
rock. It required a smart blow of a hammer to break
it. And in much the same way many a deposit of sand
has thus become sandstone or freestone.
" Some years ago, I saw in the hands of Dr. Robert
Chambers of Edinburgh a piece of siliceous quartzite.
It had been taken from one of the metamorphic hills of
Sutherland. It had evidently at one time been a mass
of loose sand. In fact, it still resembled sandstone
more than typical quartz. How it became a mass of
flinty stone I know not; but evidently not from the
effects of heat.
" Some years ago there was a great talk of liquid
silica, or liquid flint — flint, in fact, as thin as water.
Many public buildings, it was said, had been built of a
material so loose that under weather influences they were
«C8 FLINT FOSSILS.
falling to pieces.* It was proposed to wash their fronts
with this siliceous white wash, and thus preserve them from
further decay. Be that as it may, it is a fact that they
can render the softest stone, even soft sand, as hard as
flint. They do, in fact, manufacture stones. There is
actually such a thing as liquid flint. Man makes it,
and nature makes it. Now, you have only to suppose
an irruption of liquid flint into soft strata, and very
soon after the rock becomes metamorphic.
" I saw, with Mr. Peach of Wick, many of his Dur-
ness Silurian fossils — both from the limestone and
quartzite. Hugh Miller knew of fossils in quartzite,
found to the west of Thurso, such as Worm Holm. The
hard metamorphic quartzite had once been loose sand,
and under the action of the weather had become sand
again.
"Many of Mr. Peach's limestone fossils were of
flint. Indeed, all that I saw were flint casts. The shell
had decayed ; silica had gradually filled up the place of
the shell ; and you saw a form like it. Others were
interior casts. But' the limestone was not equally hard.
Now these were from metamorphic rocks — rocks changed
without fire, or any heat.
"No doubt there have been outbursts of fiery or
molten matter. The gneiss, or metamorphic rocks, to the
south of Caithness have all veins of quartz and veins
of red granite. These veins are thought to have been
molten or hot, and injected into them. Of course, their
action was to change the nature of the rocks into which
* The Houses of Parliament form an instance.
CHAP. xxr. DESTRUCTIONS AND CREATIONS. 369
the veins of molten matter were driven. But how, no
one can tell. There is a slow metamorphic action, as
well as a rapid one.
"Yet no one has any reason to think that such a
thing as a universally destructive action ever occurred
since life began. There might be death from irruptive
forces in the sea at Norway or Iceland, yet none at
Caithness or Leith. No one supposes that, though all
fossils may have been obliterated in metamorphic strata,
all life was destroyed at the same time in the over-
lying waters.
"Agassiz and Hugh Miller believed in many de-
structions of life, and in many new creations. But
Hugh, before he died, knew that it was not so. In his
Testimony of the Hocks, he traced existing forms
backwards, through all the various deposits, and found
no break until he came to the Chalk. ' If even then,
he said. By the expression ' If even then,' he referred
to the microscopic animals of the chalk, — found to be still
alive in the North Sea, and in the seas between America
and Britain.
" In dredging for a platform for the submarine cable,
microscopic shells, with flesh on them, were brought
up from a depth of a mile and a half. Ehrenberg,
Humboldt, and Sir Eoderick Murchison have said, that
those shells brought up from the deep sea bottom are
the same animal as those found entombed in chalk
hills in millions.
" All metamorphic rocks are not of the same age ;
neither are all Silurian. Neither are Old Eed Sandstone,
370 DICK'S LETTERS. CHAP. xxi.
Coal, or any other of the great deposits. life, in my
opinion, was never wholly obliterated since it first began.
Some creatures have died out ; but there are no proofs of
any new creation."
It should be mentioned that the letters in which
these observations occur, were written without the
slightest idea of their ever coming under the notice of
the public. They were mostly written for the information
and amusement of his sister and his brother-in-law at
Haddington. He required of his eldest sister, that his
letters to her should be burnt as soon as read. They
were therefore destroyed. Fortunately, the letters to
his youngest sister have been preserved. They have
furnished us with some of the best descriptions of the
scenery of Caithness. They have described much of
Dick's scientific investigations, and also some of his
domestic history.
CHAPTER
DICICS FRIENDS— FOSSILISING AND
MOSS-HUNTING.
THE Thurso people surrounded Dick with a considerable
degree of mystery. But the mystery was very much of
their own making. They could not understand what
" the man " was about. What could he mean by walk-
ing to Morven and Dorery, and bringing home only a few
tufts of moss ? What could be the reason of his digging
with a pickaxe in old quarries, or pounding on the rocks
by the sea-shore with a smiddy forehammer ? Ordinary
people were grinding away for a living, working hard at
flagstones, or competing with each other for increased
trade, whereas the half-daft baker was wandering about
Caithness in his by-hours, gathering stones, ferns, and
grasses. The whole thing was a mystery !
The boys no longer dogged him about, as if he had
been the local idiot of the place. They rather kept out
of his way ; for people spoke of him as " uncanny," and
"a wee thocht wrang." When he came down the
middle of the street, on his way home from Dun net
Head or Banniskirk, they merely stood to one side, and
looked after him until he turned down Wilson's Lane.
He was often bedrabbled about his feet and trousers
372 DICK MISUNDERSTOOD. CHAP. xxn.
He had been out since one o'clock in the morning ; but
his long walk did not seem to have tired him, as he went
on his way down the street in his long swinging walk.
He still dressed himself in his antediluvian garments
He still wore his swallow-tailed coat and his chimney-
pot hat. He could not afford much money for clothing
The only things he renewed from time to time were his
trousers and his hob-nailed boots. Dress was very little
to him. And yet he was a handsome man too, though
he never thought of that. Dr. Shearer says his appear-
ance reminded him of another of nature's enthusiasts —
Mungo Park. He had the same compact round head
and face, with "ambrosial clusters" curled; and the
same genial, unaffected, and, to the last, remarkably
juvenile expression.
If the Thurso people did not understand Dick's outer
man, they still less understood his inner man. What
was he ? What occupied his thoughts ? What was his
belief? What was his religion? That was a great
point in a Scotch town, where everybody knows every-
body ; and where men are judged very much according
to the kirk that they attend. The opinions entertained
about Dick on the latter subject were very unfavourable.
Perhaps they had a great deal to do with the falling-
off in his business.
Many a petty inquisition was held about Dick in
Thurso. What did he think about the first chapter of
Genesis ? What did he think about the Flood ? Was
he " soond " in his scriptural views ? Like wiser men,
he held his tongue. And, after all, why should thej
CHAP. xxir. HIS INNER THINKINGS. 373
know anything of his inner thinkings ? Why this per-
petual inquisitioning into the things that thoughtful
and conscientious men think and believe ? " Wait till
you are of my age, and wearing spectacles, and then I
will talk to you," was his answer to an inquiring young
friend. He might have added — "Wait till you have
acquired wisdom and experience ; wait till you have
laboured and searched as I have done, and waited
patiently for more light ; and then we will talk about
the mysteries of the by-past world."
After all, what do we really know ? It is but a mere
speck in the infinite of knowledge. " No man can find
out the work that God made from the beginning to the
end." To use the words of Dr. Parker — " We live as in
a twilight of knowledge, charged with revelations of
order and beauty. We stedfastly look for a perfect
light, which shall reveal perfect order and perfect
beauty."*
But whatever the Thurso people might think about
Dick's religious belief, there could be no doubt as to his
character. He was a kindly, cordial, honest, high-prin-
cipled man. Everybody acknowledged that. They
might call him what names they pleased, but they
could not fail to recognise the dignity and purity of his
mind. He did his duty honestly by all men. Hence he
enjoyed the friendship of some of the best men in the
place. The young students almost worshipped him.
He was constantly referred to as an authority on scien-
tific subjects; and no one could be more kind and
* Morphology of the Skull, p. 363.
17*
374 HIS THOROUGHNESS. CHAP, xxit
obliging when consulted, or more lavish in communi-
cating the results of his careful observation and gar-
nered thought of so many studious years.
Men who did not know him, thought him to be a
morose man — strange, abstracted, and rather unsociable.
But those who did know him, and were admitted to the
sanctum of his bakehouse, found him the very reverse.
There he was kindly, sociable, humorous, full of infor-
mation, sometimes full of fancy, and always ready to
communicate everything that he knew about the fossil-
bearing strata, the botany, and the natural history of
Caithness.
" On one occasion," says Dr. Shearer, " a point was
raised and settled rather dubiously on Mr. Dick's own
ipse dixit. Without giving us any reason to suppose
that he suspected any incredulity, he made his appear-
ance at my father's house in his baker's dress within a
quarter of an hour afterwards, bringing with him an
armful of books, from which he proceeded to quote in
rapid succession, and then went away, leaving us
amazed at his zeal and thoroughness. For it was one of
his peculiarities — as it is with most enthusiasts — to
believe that every person must be as deeply interested in
his subject as he was himself."
It was not often, however, that Dick went into any
person's house in Thurso. He declined invitations to
breakfast with Sir George Sinclair, when he had dis-
tinguished men with him; and he declined all other
invitations. When a public breakfast was given in
honour of Hugh Miller, during one of his short visits tc
CHAP. xxn. DICK'S ONLY EXTRAVAGANCE. 375
Thurso, Dick did not make his appearance. On that
occasion it was suggested that a geological museum
should be established in Thurso, and Dick, though
absent, was suggested as the only person likely to obtain
and to classify the specimens. But Dick was unwilling,
— perhaps he had not the time necessary to undertake
the work ; and he declined the offer.
As he did not accept the entertainments of others,
neither did he entertain others in his own house. The
only exception was in the case of Mr. Peach. The fol-
lowing extract is from Mr. Peach's diary : — " Rose at 5
A.M. After disposing of many matters, I went to see
Dick. What pleasure it is to meet him ! This day,
for the first time, I ate and drank with him. I asked
him for a cup of tea. ' By all means,' he said. I was
much amazed with him and his housekeeper, Annie
Mackay. There was no cloth on the table. The poor
body was sadly put about. Dick, manlike, laughed at
her dismay. This is the first time that I partook of
food with him. He would often have asked me. He
was dashed, because the first time I saw him he asked
me to take wine; and because I refused (being a
teetotaller), he thought I was above eating and drinking
with him. He was much mistaken. He did not then
know me."
Throughout his life, Dick was careful and abstemious.
He lived frugally, spending very little upon himself.
His only extravagance if such it can be called, was
books. These he would have of the best editions, beauti-
fully bound. His brother-in-law once offered to
376 DICK'S COMPANIONS. CHAP. xxii.
him some prime whisky. " No " said he in reply, " but
I thank you all the same. Spirits never enter this
house, save when I cannot help it." His brother-in-
law then offered to send him some money. " God
grant you more sense!" was his reply. "I want no
sovereigns. It is of no use sending anything down
here. Nothing is wanted. Delicacies would only
injure health. Nothing like hard fare in going through
the world. My old woman neither smokes, snuffs, nor
drinks. She is just as tough as a rigwoodie, and can
almost do without sleep. I must not pamper myself.
' Hardy ' is the word with working people. Pampering
does no good, but much evil. No, no ! no pampering."
We have said that Dick was a solitary man. He
delighted in the companionship of books, and enjoyed
with them the solitude of his own thoughts. He never
married. He had no family enjoyments, nor family
cares. His only inmate was his Highland housekeeper,
with whom he could have little mental communion.
His only companion was his sister, though she was far
away. With her he corresponded regularly to the close
of his life. He told her his joys and sorrows, his dis-
coveries among the rocks, his finding of ferns at Dunnet
Head and among the Eeay hills, and all the little
events of his daily life.
Here, for instance, is a little bit of one of his letters
to her, written on the 26th December 1863 : —
" As the weather wore a fair face, I got up and away
off to a spot, nearly five miles off, to gather ferns !
What ? Ferns at the end of December ? Yes, ferns. I
CHAP. xxn. THE FERNS— PERI! 377
walked to a rocky precipice, and gathered about a dozen
ferns. They must have been Peri ? Yes, they were
Peri I The longest was about fifteen inches. Three oi
them were beautiful and green — finely cut and lobed.
In fact, I never saw prettier plants, and I was very
proud of them — the more so, as I gathered them at the
end of December. I knew that the Sea Spleenwort was
green all the year round at the cliffs of Dunnet Head,
as I had gathered it there in winter, but I did not know
that the inland ferns were green at the end of Decem-
ber."
Here is another extract from a letter to his sister : —
" I observe that your husband is a rifleman. Tell
him that I never fired off a gun in my life, and scarcely
ever handled one. There are a great many riflemen
here. They have two targets. Not long since I was
nearly shot. I was on the shore, and some green hands
had come out to practise. They stood aslant, and not
hitting the target, their balls came pinging through the
air repeatedly. At length, one ball hit a ledge near me,
raising smoke and dust. I thought it time to be off,
and got out of the way."
His sister was then lying on her deathbed, but he
continued to write to her, endeavouring to cheer her up.
He sent to her husband a long account of his digging
up a fossil, at the end of 1863. He said, "Tell my
sister that I have written all this, hoping that it may
amuse her." His sister died about two months later.
It need not be said how much he lamented her. She
was the last of his family — his nearest, dearest friend.
378 DEA TH OF HIS SISTER. CHAP. xxn.
And he was soon to follow her. When informed of her
death, he wrote to her husband : —
"My sister's death affects me much. I miss her
now, and feel a want. I'll feel it more by and by. I
know that all must die ; but we have the hope that,
though we die, yet we will live for ever. Yes ! we hope
to meet again." Three months later, he again wrote : " I
have not lifted a hammer since Jane died. I think of
her every day. . . They venerate the dead the most, who
live as they desired."
Amongst those who sought the acquaintance of
Dick in later years was a young gentleman connected
with a bank in Thurso. He knew of Dick's solitariness,
and of his dislike for new acquaintanceships. He
wished much to meet him, but feared a repulse. At
length he determined to make the attempt. After
Dick's day's work was over, he looked in at the window,
and then he entered the baker's shop. The scene he
saw was characteristic. The only light in the house
proceeded from a candle placed on a chair in the side
room, where Robert Dick was deeply engaged in reading
a book. He was in his working clothes; his shirt
sleeves were tucked up ; and his appearance indicated
that he had been at his baking bench only a few moments
before. What first filled the spectator's eye was the
shadow of his massive head thrown upon the wall. The
particular way in which he happened to be sitting
caused the shadow to be very large, and, being well
defined, and showing some of his features, it looked a
striking object.
CHAP. xxii. INTERVIEW WITH DICK. 379
Dick, hearing the sound of footsteps, rose up with
the candle, and taking it with him entered the shop by
the back way. The visitor, scarcely knowing what to
say, asked for some of his biscuits. He said that, being
a stranger, he had heard that Mr. Dick's biscuits were
the best in town. The biscuits were given, and still the
stranger hung about. He entered into conversation
with Dick, and he asked whether he could not see some
of his specimens. Dick said that he had at that time
little that was worth seeing — in fact, he had already
sold his fossils to Mr. Miller — but, if he would call
again, he would with pleasure show him all that he had.
Dick fixed the hour, stating that his visitor must be
punctual to the minute. He explained that he had to
stick to rigorous rules in that way, as he had to support
himself by his business, and also because he was at
times interrupted by persons calling for their own plea-
sure while he was engaged at his work.
The introduction being thus successfully accom-
plished, the visitor again called on Eobert Dick to
inspect his treasures. He was taken upstairs to the
museum — a little bedroom or parlour — of which Dick
carefully kept the key. Its appearance indicated that
no duster or broom was plied there without his special
permission. The chairs were laden with books, or
specimens of plants or fossils. In a corner was laid
his herbarium — consisting of numerous books in which
his dried plants had been preserved. One part of the
room might be likened to a quarry bed, because of the
specimens of rocks lying there.
380 DICK'S HERBARIUM. CHAP. xxn.
Pointing to a board laid across a chair, and bearing
a considerable number of stone slabs, cut and polished to
an equal size, he said, " Now, that's Caithness." " How
is that ? " said the visitor. " These are the specimens of
all the rocks of the county, from the most ancient :•:
the most recent, and they are arranged accordingly."
The localities were indicated from which the rocks
had been taken, from Portskerra to Duncansby, from
Morven to Dunnet Head. Dick then proceeded to
show his collection of ferns, and a beautiful sight they
were.
Dick was most careful in preparing his herbarium.
Not a single imperfect specimen was admitted. The
way in which they were attached to the leaves of his
books showed the artistic turn of his mind. The fine
natural curves of the plants, grasses, and ferns, were
carefully preserved. The very hairs about the stalks
and leaves were spread out at the correct angle ; and
the whole presented, as much as possible, the living
character of the plants. All indicated an immense
amount of labour, care, and observation. He wished to
preserve them as he found them, in a state of nature.
All their habitats were carefully attached to the Caith-
ness plants.
To resume the visits of his friend. — On one occasion,
when he passed through the shop and entered the
bakehouse behind, he found the occupant merrily singing
" The Soldier's Eeturn." He immediately joined in the
song. " Ah," said Dick, suddenly looking up from his
dough, " you've caught me." " I did not know you could
CHAP. xxn. HIS INTEREST IN EGYPT. 381
sing, Mr. Dick." " Sing ! " said he, " I believe I was
born singing."
The visitor proceeded to inspect the walls of the
bakehouse. Like many others, he was struck by the
firm, correct drawing of the figures on the walls.
Though Dick had never studied drawing, he had a great
love for the fine arts. He cultivated his taste, and was
able not only to delineate plants with delicacy and
neatness, but to draw in spirited outline the figures of
men, and animals, and gods. He thus converted his
bakehouse into a chamber of imagery.
The smooth plaster was his canvas, and on it he
portrayed the creations of his fancy. At one time
the walls would be resplendent with Cherubim and
Seraphim and the angelic host. At another — for he
often varied his drawings — they would exhibit the
strange and weird-like forms of the animals that
inhabited the ancient world. Sometimes there was a
medley of figures — Egyptian kings and hieroglyphics —
winged bulls and Assyrian gods from the sculptures of
Nineveh — and in the midst of them, happy children
" disporting nude."
Dick was intensely interested in Egypt and the old
Eamesian period. He read every book he could find on
the subject. In one of his letters, he says — " I am much
delighted and fairly lost in Egypt — wandering in imagi-
nation amongst those
" ' Temples, palaces, and tombs stupendous,
Of which the very ruins are tremendous.'
" It was a rainy morning, and I had to be content with
382 THE GODS OF EGYPT. CHAP. xxn.
staying at home. I turned to and sketched in an
outline of one of the gods of Egypt. It had a ram's
head on a human body. I worked away from eight
o'clock in the morning until two o'clock in the after-
noon, when I got it finished. I passed the rest of the
evening in reading. In the midst of this evil weather, I
have been reading a number of books. I have read a
volume on the Polar Seas and regions, another on
Africa, another on Egypt, another on Nubia and
Abyssinia, and I propose to go on with Palestine,
Arabia, Persia, India, and New Zealand."
But amidst all his multifarious reading, ancient
Egypt stood first in point of interest. " It seems," he
said, " that these old people are not yet properly under-
stood by our wisest men, and we fall into many mistakes,
and put many constructions on their ancient works.
They seemed to have recognised an Evil One or prin-
ciple, which they named Typhon — a god, Osiris — a
goddess Isis, and a whole multitude of ' gods many and
lords many ' —
" ' Every garden was o'errun with gods.'
One, or rather two of the figures which I have stuck up
on the wall, exhibit a representation of the union of
the Brute and the Human — that is, a cat's head on a
human body. Cats were venerated in Egypt long ago.
There may have been something satirical in this god.
Very probably cat-witted people loved then as well as
now. Then again, they had their ram-headed gods, and
their hawk-headed gods; and, by your leave, we
all those sort of living people yet."
CHAP. xxn. DICK'S BAKEHOUSE. 382
The visitor to Dick's bakehouse saw the numerous
figures occupying the walls. Amongst them was a
spirited and well-executed figure of the beautiful Greek
boy drawing the thorn from his foot. This was over
the fireplace. Beside it were two figures of Egyptian
idols. On the side of one of the windows there was the
figure of an ape, excellently drawn. What Dick thought
of the development hypothesis may be understood from
his figures of the Greek boy and the ape. They could
be seen at the same glance from the door of the apart-
ment, and presented a striking contrast, quite irrecon-
cilable with the idea of even a remote identity. When
questioned on the subject, Dick humorously indicated
the presence of the two drawings. He pointed to them,
but said nothing.
With respect to the Egyptian idols, he said of a
friend who had called upon him and looked at them,
" Perhaps he did not understand my Egyptian mytho-
logical divinities. Strange figures are these gods of
Egypt, and yet they had a hidden meaning which no one
nowadays rightly understands. Egypt was once the
first of the nations, but the glory of its palaces has gone
for ever. And all must perish but Truth. That alone
is eternal ! "
When the weather was fine, Dick again went to the
fields or to the sea-shore. He was still anxious to find
his whole big fish. Hence he continued to dig away at
the rocks. Towards the end of 1864, Mr. George
Henslow, son of the late Professor of Botany in Cam-
bridge, wrote a letter to Dick, asking if he could send
384 THURSO HARBOUR. CHAP. xxn.
him some specimens of fossil fish in exchange for
botanical specimens. To gratify his request, Dick
searched along the shore ; and, after an hour's labour
with his heavy hammer, his wedges, and his chisels, he
found a good fossil fish quite whole. Whether this was
sent to Mr. Henslow we know not, as no further refer-
ence is made to the subject.
MOUTH OF THUBSO KIVER.
About the same time Dick discovered another singular
object. " A recent spate," he says, " laid bare part of
the skeleton of a whale, which apparently had been
buried many hundreds of years. It was very much
decayed. It lay near the mouth of the river. Most
probably some of the old Caithness cannibals feasted on
the monster."
A Society for the study of Natural History was
CHAP. xxn. * NATURAL HISTORY SOCIETY. 38J
established in Thurso in 1865. Dick refers to it in the
following terms : —
" Macculloch said that an uglier country than Caith-
ness was hardly to be seen. God save the mark ! is
that true ? A fine natural history society has been got
up here, and in their wisdom they have thought proper
to dub me an ' honorary member.' They go to-day on
an excursion to Dunnet Hills. I wish they may not
drown themselves."
On the following day he says : — " I am very glad that
I did not consent to go a-gowking to Dunnet Hills. The
party went off in gigs, single and double ; and what they
saw, in crossing the sands, I know not. Certes, no one
ever heard of objects in natural history being collected
in gigs ! The Society went to the inn and had dinner,
and they did not rise until it was late. In coming back
across the sands, they drove their gigs into the sea ! . . .
One lady was heard to lament that Mr. Dick was not
with them, were it only to keep them in order. Depend
upon it, if Dick the baker had been there, the Society
would have returned home before midnight ! A fine
' honour ' indeed !
" ' A countra lad is my degree,
An' few there be that ken me, 0 ! '
"Thurso had its museum party once before, but it
went to smoke chiefly through a want of funds, and also
through a total want of zeal amongst the people for
things of that sort. A love for those studies cannot
be forced, hardly even nursed into existence. But this
attempt at a Museum bids fair to prosper."
MANY CORRESPONDENTS. CHAP. xxn.
Dick seems to have had a dislike for men who went
out geologising or botanising in gigs ! After a hard
morning's work, and a long ramble round the coast, with
hammer and chisel, he returned, and entered the follow-
ing remarks : — " On arriving at home, I found Dr. Hunt,
from London, had called. I met him on the road, in a
gig of course. I did not know him, nor he me."
Dick continued to have many correspondents. They
addressed him from far and near, asking him for fossil
fish, and specimens of the Holy Grass. He provided
the Rev. Mr. Brodie, geologist, with some fossils, and
through his introduction several other geologists asked
for the same. Mr. George Roberts, secretary to the
London Geological Society, asked him to send some
typical specimens of the oil-bearing shales for analysa-
tion. " Some influential city people," he said, " are
quite willing to take the matter up, if the yield of
bituminous oil promises to be a paying one." Mr.
Roy, of Aberdeen, wrote to him stating that he would
propose him as a member of the Aberdeen Natural
History Society, provided he would supply him with a
paper on the natural history of Caithness. Mr. Alfred
Bell, of London, wrote him asking for a paper on the
Hierochloe borealis, for insertion in his Natural History
Circular.
Another of his correspondents was Mr. Jamieson of
Ellon, who sent him an abstract of his paper on the
geology of Caithness. " I make mention," he said, " on
your authority, of the gravel hillocks near Dirlot, as
being the only ones that I had heard of. With regard to
CHAP. xxn. MR: JAMIESON'S LETTER. 387
the valley gravel, it seemed to me to be less developed,
even in proportion to the size of the rivers, than it is
in other districts. There is some of it, however ; and I
agree with you in saying, as I do in my paper, that what
does occur, appears to be the product of the rivers and
streams cutting through the drift.
" I wish you would take a run, some time, along the
northern seaboard of Sutherlandshire, and note the
appearances presented by the valleys of the various
mountain streams that join the sea. It would be desir-
able to ascertain whether any moraine-like heaps
present themselves in such places, where you approach
the mountains. On going along the east side of Suther-
land, I noticed that the features of the county differed
from those of Caithness. Great piles of gravel, arranged
in mounds and abrupt hillocks, present themselves at
the entrance of the valleys, and come down close .upon
the sea, — as is well seen at Brora. Now, it would be
interesting to know if similar phenomena also occur
along the north coast.
" The meeting of the Caithness plains with the high
hills of Morven, the Pap, and the Scarabens, should also
be investigated, in order to see whether any drift from
north or north-west overlaps their base, or whether, on
the other hand, the de'bris of these mountains protrudes
in the form of moraine-like ridges. Foreign boulders
should also be searched for on these hills. P^ach tells
me he saw hardly any. I walked along the Berridale
glen from the base of the Scarabens to the sea, but did
not manage to get round the northern base. I will
388 CONTINUES HIS WALKS. CHAP, xxu
send you a copy of my paper when it is printed, which
will probably be some time this year.
" The valves of the Leda I got from you are pro-
nounced by Mr. Gwynn Jeffreys to be Leda buccata of
Steenstrup, which he seems to consider a variety of Leda
parmula"
Here was a large stroke of work cut out for Robert
Dick. But he was too poor, too rheumatic, too much
overborne by troubles, to undertake it.
Nevertheless he continued his walks to within a
reasonable distance of Thurso. He preferred walking
along the shore. Sandside Bay was one of his favourite
resorts. There he found old fishes in store, but none of
them were of the best kind. In passing thither, he
crossed the Forss Water by the bridge; and in the
lower grounds he found a specimen of the Hierochloe
borealis growing. He sought for it again, but he never
found another. Besides, there were plenty along the
Thurso banks, — quite enough to satisfy his numerous
correspondents. Forss Water was one of his favourite
spots. It rises in Shurery Loch, and comes tumbling
down from rock to rock until it reaches the sea. The
last fall is at Forss Mill, near where he found the speci-
men of the Holy Grass.
Robert Dick continued his correspondence with
Charles Peach to the end of his life.* The two had a
* In 1859 the Geological Society of London unanimously granted
the WolUston Medal to Mr. Charles Darwin, F.R.S. ; but a balance
remained, which was awarded to Mr. Charles Peach, for his discoveries
in Geology. The president, Professor .1. Phillips, on his handing the
MILL AT FORSS.
CHAP. xxn. DICK'S LAST VERSES. 389
hearty, cordial, fellow-feeling. They communicated to
each other everything that they found which was new.
There was never the slightest feeling of jealousy between
them. The last verses that Dick wrote to Peach were
as follows : —
;' Ye lang hae toddled roun' the land,
An' hammer'd far and near ;
But feint a fossil ye hae fand
Your drooping heart to cheer !
" A broken wee bit fish or twa,
. A doubtfu' bit o' stane,
Ye carried south, wi' muckle blaw,
To chiels, wha skeel had nane.
" A puff they whispered in your lug,
And ye came laughin' name,
Weel drooked wi' the Hieland fog,
And fand the whole a dream."
But Mr. Peach did find more fossils. In 1863,
while working at Sarclet, on the Wick side of the
county, he found part of a fossil crustacean in the Eed
Sandstone, rising from beneath the flag-beds.* Sir
sum in a little purse to Sir Roderick Murchisoii, requested him " to
assure Mr. Peach of the pleasure which the Council and Society had in
thus publicly acknowledging the perseverance, acumen, and love of
Natural History pursuits evinced by Mr. Peach, and especially the
advantages accruing to geological science from his researches among
the oldest palaeozoic rocks, both at the southern and northern extremi-
ties of the island, he having been the first to tiud fossil remains in
the old altered rocks of Sutherlandshire and Cornwall."
* Mr. Pe:iuh says that the first specimen of this fossil was found by
Mr. R. Shearer, but that he afterwards found two other body segment)
ft short distance from the same place.
18
390 MR. PEACHES DISCOVERIES. CHAP. xxir.
Roderick Murchison, on the authority of Professor
Huxley, stated it to be part of a Pterygotus — or lobster-
like crustacean. Mr. Peach also discovered some speci-
mens of the Tristichopterus alatus at John o' Groat's,
which threw much light on the previously unknown
points of its structure as well as on its affinities.
It would, indeed, be difficult to tell how much Mr.
Peach found during his residence in Caithness. Among
his other findings, he discovered a sea-snake. It was
cast ashore in Sinclair's Bay, a few miles north of Wick.
The length of the snake was fifteen feet six inches ; its
width about three and a half inches. Its head displayed
a sort of mane or pendulous tuft. Its skin was of a
beautiful silvery colour, with fine dark bands passing
from the head to the tail. It was found to be a large
specimen of the Gymnetrus, — better known by the name
of riband-lath or deal-fish. A similar sea-snake has
since been found by Mr. Trail at Dunnet Bay, near
Thurso.
In 1863 Mr. Peach obtained from the rocks in the
neighbourhood of John o' Groat's a fragment of a small
Pterichthys. As this genus had not before been found
in Caithness, he resolved, — although the locality was
more than eighteen miles from his residence at Wick, —
to follow up the discovery ; and he succeeded in finding,
at different times, four or five pretty good specimens.
At the meeting of the British Association at Dundee, in
1868, Mr. Peach read a short description of it to the
Geological Section, and named it after his valued friend,.
Pterichthys Dicki. But we anticipate.
CHAP. xxii. PEACH'S JOURNEYS. 391
We return to Charles Peach's history. We have
already stated that he was stationed at Wick as Comp-
troller of Excise. Part of his business was to inspect
the coast of Caithness — from Wick round Noss Head,
Duncansby Head, John o' Groat's, and Dunnet Head, to
Thurso, and from thence to Cape Wrath and Rhu-Stoir
in Sutherlandshire. The east coast, from Dornoch
Firth north to Wick, was also within his beat.
When he travelled by land, he went by mail-coach,
mail-gigs, or carts, whichever was most convenient.
Sometimes he went by boats along the coast. He was
often very much exposed, especially in winter, to wind,
frost, and snow — always bitter cold. When he heard of
a wreck having taken place, he was off at once ; his
object being to save the ship and the crew, and to
reward those who had been instrumental in saving life.
He communicated with the Wreck Department of the
Board of Trade, and recommended those who had acted
gallantly. "I proposed," he said, "that medals and
money should be publicly given, and I am proud and
happy to say that the Board almost always attended to
my recommendations. I always pushed hard for
decorations ; and many a man has been made proud of
his bravery for life." Amid such harassing, distressing,
and dangerous scenes, did Charles Peach carry on his
researches into the Geology and Natural History of the
northernmost counties of Scotland.
Peach was now getting an old man — not old in
spirits, but old in years. He was constantly subject to
attacks of cold and bronchitis. Indeed, he was often
392 PEACH RETIRES FROM OFFICE. CHAP. xxii.
very ill. Dick wrote in one of his letters that he
scarcely expected that he would recover. Nevertheless,
he cheered liini up as usual : " I am glad to hear you
are in spirits at least, if not in health. So many people
are going that I began to get apprehensive that you
were seriously ill. Hope on for ever, dear Charlie."
Peach had also many troubles connected with death
and illness in his own family.
At length, in 1861, he was under the necessity of
retiring from the service. He was now sixty-one. He
had worked long and hard for his retiring allowance.
Besides, a change was about to be made. The office of
Comptroller, with a view to economy in the Customs,
was to be done away with in all the ports of the
United Kingdom. "Mr. Gladstone's long range," he
said, " is about to ruin me." The older men were to be
placed on the redundant list, and the younger ones were
to be reduced to subordinate offices. Though Peach was
at the top of the list for promotion to £200 a year,
he refused to be reduced, and he therefore retired upon
a comparatively small amount, which lasts only during
his lifetime, and leaves nothing for his widow. His hopes
were thus dashed. The change had such a depressing
effect upon him that he fell seriously ill, and for
weeks was expected to die. But in course of time he
recovered, and set to work again upon his favourite
studies.
Mr. Peach accompanied Mr. Gwynn Jeffreys in his
dredging expeditions along the shores of the Shetland
Islands, and he there made a collection of British
CHAP. xxii. PEACH'S SCIENTIFIC PAPERS. - 393
corals (Polyzoa), which would otherwise have
thrown away as waste. He never forgot what his keen
eyes had detected, and he never threw away what he
considered might be turned to some future account.
The last time we saw Mr. Peach * he was engaged in
preparing a paper on these waste objects, to be read
before the Linnean Society. The paper was entitled
" On Cellepora cervicomis of the British Seas."
Mr. Peach left Wick in May 1865, and took up his
residence at a house in Leith Walk, where he still
lives.t He says, " I must work ; I should soon die if
idle. Work is life to me." He has consequently sent
many papers to the Linnean and other scientific
societies. One of these was on the British Polyzoa;
another (read at the Royal Institution of Cornwall) on
Zoophytes from the Cornish coast.
Among his various honours he was elected Presi-
dent of the Royal Physical Society of Edinburgh, and
in his opening address he discoursed of the history of
the Fossil Mora of the Old Red Sandstone of the North
of Scotland. He was also presented by the Royal Society
of Edinburgh with the Neill prize for the period 1871-
74, in acknowledgment of his extensive contributions to
geological science. In fact, so long as Mr. Peach lives
— he is now seventy-nine — his name will be heard of.
And yet he says he is not " an old man." He is still
an "old boy." That is what his wife calls him. For
he is cheerful, communicative, bright, and lively as
ever.
* April 1878. f 30 Haddington Place, Edinburgh.
394 . PEACH'S PHOTOGRAPH. CHAP xxn.
In May 1866 Mr. Peach sent Dick a photograph of
himself, which had been taken at Edinburgh. Dick
replied to his letter as follows : —
" I scarcely needed such a memento of you, I would
always have remembered you. And indeed, should my
memory have proved fallacious, still your plants would
have unceasingly suggested an idea of you. I was
amongst the Eeay hills in March last, and was pleased
to see the fern (Scolopendrium) growing beautifully, and
both there and at Dunnet Hills the plant will endure
and astonish some lonely wanderer, long after we are
both out of time. Charles ! you have thus reared an
undying memento, and it was no vain thought which
prompted you to bring to me so lovely an object.
" ' A thing of beauty is a joy for ever.'
It will be a joy to some who will remain ignorant of
its history."
CHAPTEE XXTTL
DICK'S LAST YEAR— HIS DEATH.
LIFE was becoming sad, and dreary, and full of sorrow,
to Robert Dick. He was a victim to rheumatism.
Sometimes he could scarcely move. " I am plagued," he
says, " with rheumatism in my shoulder-blades ; I can
scarcely lift my arm." The rheumatism also affected
his loins and feet. He could not walk ; he could only
"hirple." To one who had been so full of life and
activity, this was a great trouble.
He was also much affected by his business. Competi-
tion was mining half the bakers in Thurso. One man,
who afterwards became a bankrupt, was underselling
everybody, in bread, in tea, in groceries and everything.
" Campbell," he says, " even sent the bell round forbid-
ding people to drink milk, and recommending them to
patronise his ale and porter. He sells most things
under cost price, to the great injury of his fellow-trades-
men."
Dick's business again fell off more rapidly than
before. " I am in a state of galloping ruin," he says to
his brother-in-law. " I have nothing to do, I have made
no loaf-bread for several weeks. My trade is suspended.
To tell the truth, I have worked hard for my living for
396 LOSES HIS BUSINESS. CHAP. xxm.
so very long, that I am nothing save when I am working
regularly ... I was within a hairsbreadth of being off
yesterday by steamer for Leith. Idleness will never do.
If a man like me, after thirty-five years' hard work, is
compelled to work as a day-labourer, I will try if possible
first to get out to Brisbane or New Zealand. . . . My
sister Jane was a good friend to me. But the world
runs round ; and I was a fool for not being off in time
from this starvation hole. Lord help us !"
But Dick was still the best biscuit-maker in Thurso.
Surely he could sell his biscuits ! No; competition again
beset him. Campbell planted touters at the end of
Wilson's Lane, and pressed the Highlanders, when on
their way home from "Wick to the Western Islands, to
take their biscuits from the general competitor. " On
Saturday," he says, "the Highlandmen came up from
Wick to go by a steamer from Scrabster ; and they con-
tinue to come all day, all yesterday (Sabbath), and kept
coming until one or two this morning. I used to sell
them on such occasions some thirty or forty stones of
biscuit. This time I did not sell them more than
twenty stones. So I'll take a run up to the hills, to
complete my number of county ferns."
In fact, Dick could scarcely earn the wages of a day-
labourer by working at his trade. The men who worked
at flag-cutting by the river-side made from half-a-crown
to three shillings a day. But Campbell had lessened
Dick's earnings by ten and sixpence a week ; and that,
said he, " is a very great deal to take from a poor man
like me. However, I must try and starve it out, hoping
•July for a rcduot^n in the price cf f.cur.
CHAP. xxin. REFORM AND MOSSES. 397
His brother-in-law having wished him a " good new
year," Dick replied : " So far as I am concerned, I have
not the smallest hope of seeing a good new year any more
in this world. That is all over long ago. You are young,
and hope is strong in you ; but you will yet learn that
nothing satisfactory exists here below. The world is
turned all over since I first knew it. Patience is best"
Yet Dick never lost his good temper, his charity, or
his hope. To his brother-in-law, when in trouble, he
said : " Never lose heart. Always look on the bright
side of every cloud ; and perhaps you may see the bow
of hope beyond." He still went on collecting grasses,
ferns, and flowering plants, — working, in the evenings,
at the completion of his herbarium. In the meantime
he went on collecting mosses.
"Some people," said he, "talk about Reform. I
observe that the Franchise is to be reduced to £6 and
£10. I wish the new voters may derive all the pleasure
they expect. I never dabble in politics. It does not
suit my nature. But other folk must be tickling them-
selves with straws, or grasping at shadows, not knowing
that they are themselves to blame for the unhappiness
that befalls them.
" ' Dear Nature is the kindliest'
"By nature I mean plants, flowers, and flowerless
mosses. I am still looking after and prying into these
things. I think myself blest if I can find one moss in
the week. By that you will understand that the pur-
suit of mosses is quite a new study to me. And yet
twenty years ago I was looking at them, and picking
18*
398 FOSSILS AND SHELLS. CHAP. xxm.
them up, and putting them aside wrapt in paper, with
the locality where found marked upon them.
"So I have got great numbers to overhaul. Last
winter I turned to them in good earnest, and tired
myself a hundred times over, — putting them to one side,
and then turning to them again. I will get on slowly,
slowly ; but perseverance will do it."
He went out to the hills again. But the rain often
stopped him, — ceaseless, pitiless, pelting rain. "The rain,"
he once said, "is killing me." But so soon as the
weather cleared, he was out again. "I have made a ten
hours' journey," he said in April 1866, "across the hills,
but I got no new mosses. I sought for sea-shells about
nine miles inland. I only got some little broken bits ;
but I found an entire half of the shell Astarte borealis.
It was something to find even that so far away from the
sea. Many, many changes have taken place since that
shell was deposited. A wood of trees afterwards grew
there. The wood perished, and peat moss, many feet
thick, covers it up. And underneath that, the shell was
found."
At the beginning of the following month he was
again searching for fossils. "I have got," he says,
" some large and very strong fossil bones from the rocks.
I have seen nothing similar for twenty-three years.
The outlines of the larger bone I have tried to trace out
on this leaf" [gives a drawing of a fossil bone, about
twelve inches across].
A fortnight later he says — " As I cannot be idle, I
have turned over again to break stones. I have nearly
CHAP. xxin. NOTHING NEW. 399
killed myself several times by over-exertion ; and after
all, I have found nothing new. The days of great things
are over for ever with me. And yet I am ' first fiddle,'
in all that relates to the Old Fish. If you look at the
latest edition of Hugh Miller's Footprints of the Creator,
you will see figured there many things of mine, which
I never hope to see again. The sea must wash down
the rocks for five hundred years first, and by that time
we shall all be resolved into dust and ashes.
"Alas for the old days! They are gone for ever.
Well, I will return to my plants. But even there, I
fag and limp listlessly. Nothing new! With mosses
I still get up the steam. But they are so comparatively
trifling, that I sometimes weary of them.
" To tell you the truth, I am perfectly tired of this
insipid, tasteless, dull, motionless kind of existence. I
would willingly change, if I only knew where to change
for the better. All is dull and tasteless.
" On going over the old fossil ground again, there is
much need for enthusiastic steam. The dreams of old
will not return. All is in vain. Yet I will try again, —
yes, with the aid of spectacles. For my eyesight is not
so sharp as it once was."
He again went out to the hills, to gather more ferns.
But he had exhausted the subject. " I have overhauled
so much of the county before now, that very likely I
may find only a repetition of former things. A county
holds comparatively few of the British Flora ; and a
Northern county fewer than a Southern one. For,
however vain dreamers may blow and puff, heat is
400 BOULDER FROM HELMSDALE. CHAP. xxui.
required for all vegetation. The wise man said, thou-
sands of years ago, that 'nothing is hid from the heat
of the sun,' and the wise man was right."
One morning, after he had got his work done, he
went out at four o'clock, to revisit for the last time a
selection of boulder clay by the river-side, about nine
miles from Thurso. His object was to ascertain whether
the late rains had exposed some shell or other fossil
worthy of being collected. He had before found shells
in the same place. It was moonlight, bright moonlight;
and he had a delightful walk by the river-side. When
the moon became clouded, the stars came out, and they
were extremely lovely.
During his walk, he recognised a boulder stone which
had been brought by the ice from Helmsdale, Suther
iandshire, on the other side of the Morven hills.
" And dost thou still, thou mass of breathing stone,
Thy giant limbs to night and chaos hurled,
Still sit as on a fragment of a world,
Surviving all ? "
. These were the lines of Eogers that floated through
nis imagination. " Poor creatures that we are," he said,
"speculating about things that we know so little of.
And look at these stars, so far off in the infinite. What
do we know about them ? Are they also suns, each the
centre of a planetary system? Do the beings who live
there, enjoy and suffer and die as we do ? Alas ! how
little we know of the world we live in."
Towards the end of his life, Dick read Colenso's
Pentateuch, and the book of Joshua. It was the work
BISHOP COLENSG. 401
of a bishop of the Church of England, who must surely
know something about the Bible and its origin. Dick
was very much struck by its cleverness and its mockery.
He likened the book to Samson pulling down the
temple of the Philistines. " It is very clever," he said ;
* but what do we gain by it ? Nothing whatever !
Rather we have lost. A little more unhappiness is all
the immediate result. Some of our dreams have fled,
and left us groping in uncertainty. Is there nothing
sure ? And yet there must be such a thing as truth.
But who is to decide, and tell us what truth is ? The
books of the Bible may be full of errors, but what would
become of mankind without it ?"
Dick's letters show that his mind was much
depressed about this time. He seems to have had fewer
friends than ever. He sometimes speaks severely about
the Thurso merchants; "but," he adds, "it all arises from
a want of business. Indeed there is only one merchant
in Thurso who has anything like full employment."
Dick may possibly have become embittered through his
own want of success in life.
"I have got," he said to his brother-in-law, "Mr.
Carlyle's fine oration at Edinburgh. Many thanks. I
have seen the same gentleman, and have talked to him.
Sir George Sinclair brought him to me, so that I might
see him, and he cojild look on me. Mr. Carlyle said in
his speech that labour was a cure for every human
malady. He was right so far ; and if Thurso folks had
more and better-paying employment, there would be
less spite and malice among them. And yet, mark yon,
402 PHOTOGRAPHIC LIKENESS. CHAP. xxm.
they are about the most religious and professing people
on the face of the earth.
" You have been speaking of our railway projects.
Just as usual — a barking and bickering affair. Thurso
and Wick cannot agree. Very lately they were burning
here an effigy of a man of straw, which they named the
editor of the Northern Ensign. And the Wick folk
burnt our John George Sinclair, son of Sir George
Sinclair, — all because they differed in their notions of
what was what."
His brother-in-law having sent him his photograph,
Dick said: "Of course, I ought in return to send you
'mysel,' but there is no one here but a watchmaker who
does anything that way; and some people have got
themselves made so very unlike life, that I prefer not
trusting to be made a mock of.
" Yet you may some time or another see me ; and in
the meantime, to assist your imagination, you can just
fancy a round-faced, grey-whiskered, laughing fellow.
Indeed, so much is that my character, that a young
man, now in New Zealand, used to say of me that I
was always laughing. In fact, that young man often
came to me sad and sad enough, and I always sent him
away laughing too. He still remembers me, and sends
me the New Zealand papers."
Dick was still working at his grasses in order to
complete his herbarium : — " I am anxious," he said, " to
complete my British grasses — no very easy matter, as
botanists generally despise grasses. Why they should
do so is a mystery to me, for grasses are very interest-
ing plants.
CHAP. xxin. DICK'S LAST WALK. 403
" A gentleman in Aberdeen wrote to me about the
Holy Grass. I put in a word for two grasses I wanted.
He sent me those two, and in return for them I sent
him fifty specimens of Caithness grass.
"Another gentleman in London has asked me for
shells from our shores, and I have supplied him as far
as I could — on condition of receiving grass for grass."
Again he says (20th August 1866) :—
" I have not got many rambles this summer, and I
blame that as the cause of the weakness in my stomach.
I used to be such a great walker, and the change is
telling on me,"
Nine days after this letter was written, Dick took his
last walk. He had for some time been complaining of
his health. At first he thought that it was indigestion
that troubled him. " If I eat I choke," he says. Then
he complained of his want of breath. Indeed, few con-
stitutions could have stood the amount of toil, labour,
and privation, which he had endured during his long
course of inquiry into the fossils, plants, grasses, and
mosses, over the length and breadth of Caithness. He
had often walked from fifty to eighty miles between
one baking and another, with little more in his scrip
than a few pieces of biscuit. Youth can endure many
privations, but when a man becomes comparatively
old — and Dick was now fifty-five — he cannot evade
with impunity the requirements of nature.
Dick took his last journey on the 29th of August
1866. He thus describes it : —
" A week ago I went to a quarry at noon to search
for a fossil, if I could possibly find such a thing.
404 FIGHTS HIS WA Y HOME. CHAP. xxm.
" I felt a burning pain under my breast-bone, in my
stomach ... I was not well at all Scorning to yield,
I pushed on, but only grew worse.
" I reached the quarry, but only to become conscious
that I might as soon think of dancing on my crown as
to look among the stones for the dead or the living.
" After sitting down a little, I felt that my wisest
way was just to go home again — if I could. I was
hardly able to get out of the quarry; I had become
so giddy.
" I got out though, and staggered up a hill, and sat
down. I then became terribly sick. ' Ha ! ha !' said I,
' surely I must be better now.' No ; I tried to rise up,
but was so giddy that I could scarcely stand ; I could
not balance myself. But I got up and went a little,
and sat down. Up again, went on, sat down. I got up
and sat down nearly a dozen times in succession ; all
the while the burning pain in my breast was cruel
" After I had battled on for two miles I got sick
again. c This won't do,' said I ; ' I don't fancy dying
amongst the heather.' So I tried to run. I got on a
bit, in a zigzag way, and then threw myself down. I
got up and off again, and at length found myself on the
public road. I moved on in a drunken sort of fashion
— half-blind too — and threw myself down on a dyke
beside the river.
" After resting a little, I got up and made a dash for
the river Thurso, through which I waded, just as I was,
bran deep. There's a bleaching-green by our river, and
many old wives were there. I grew sick again in the
CHAP. xxm. DICK'S ILLNESS. 405
midst of them — dreadfully ! No doubt they wondered,
as Dick the baker never drank whisky.
" At length I got home and went to bed. I have
slept none for nearly a week, but the terrible burning
pain has left me. My head is still so giddy that I can
hardly go up stairs. "
This was the beginning of the end. Ill though he
was, he continued to go on with his daily work. His
legs began to swell, until, as lie said, they were like to
burst. And then his breath was so bad that he
added, " I am like a broken-winded horse." This was
extraordinary to him, as he used to pride himself on his
" long wind."
He slept very little, but when he slept at all, he
woke " gasping for breath." Then he got up and sat on
a chair, sometimes all night — occasionally with his head
on a table. He tried hunger and cold water. Indeed,
he had no appetite. And yet he did his day's work,
though with much difficulty.
One night he prepared his work for the following
morning. He wished to have four hours' sleep, but he
soon got up, gasping. He took hold of the bed-post " to
blaw." He tried to sleep again. It was of no use.
"Nothing but suffering." Then he got up and went
down to the kitchen fire, laid his head on a table, and
tried to sleep, but he could not. He accordingly got up
at one in the morning and began his day's work.
" Though want of breath and want of strength weiv luml
on me," he says, " I battled away, and ultimately filled
my oven with capital bread, and my breathing got a
406 CONTINUES AT HIS WORK. CHAP. xxm.
little easier. And there it stands. I am not at all
well, but Hope —
" ' Hope springs eternal in the human breast.'
" I have sent you," he said to his brother-in-law, " a
Thurso paper full of holes — holes out of which I have
cut words such as ' Thurso,' ' Caithness,' ' Dunnet,' etc.,
for my plants." For he was still working away at
intervals on his herbarium.
He got no better. Sometimes he was relieved, and
then he grew worse again. He thought it was an
internal fever burning him up, and causing an enormous
drinking of cold water. " I do not say I will go this
time," he says, " but my symptoms are much the same
as Jane's, my father's, and Ann's." In fact, it was
disease of the heart under which he laboured, and
perhaps of the liver. Hence his dropsical symptoms.
He still continued his correspondence, though his
writing became weak and shaky — like that of a sick
man. He also continued his daily work. On the 1st
of October he writes: —
" ' See the wretch, who long has tossed
On the thorny bed of pain,
Recruit his health and vigour lost,
And live and walk again.
The blooming earth, the sun, the skies,
To him are opening paradise/ "
" A solemn truth ; and none but those who have been in
some measure afflicted, and tossed, and racked, and
wearied out of all patience, can know anything of the
CHAF, xxin. THE DOCTOR. 407
blessedness of the relief one feels when the disease from
which he has been suffering is passing away.
" The fever has got a check, and from this time forth
a new life will dawn upon me. I have got relief in my
gasping for breath, and I can now lie in my bed at night
until I choose to rise. I still moan and complain a great
deal in my sleep, but I don't get outrageous and wild,
frightening the old woman, puir body ! Indeed, I am
a good deal better, and though quite impatient under
this dire affliction, and at times almost hopeless, I still,
upon the whole, cherish the hope of ultimate recovery."
But he hoped against hope. Death had laid hold of
him. Dr. Shearer says the disease of which he died was
aneurism, leading to cardiac complication and dropsy —
a disease to which his laborious calling and extraordinary
exertions in travelling and climbing rocks and mountains
would particularly predispose him.
His housekeeper pressed him to send for the doctor.
" No," said he, " no doctor. If I am to die, then I must
die." In fact, he did not care very much for doctors.
He thought their " cures " were very much the result
of happy guessing. " If it has taken me," he said, " a
lifetime to ascertain the nature of plants and animals,
is it likely that a four years' curriculum can fit any man
to comprehend the mysterious processes of the living
human body?" Besides, there was the expense of
calling in a doctor !
At length, after he had been seriously ill for about
two months, his friend, Mr. John Miller of London, came
down to Thurso and called upon Dick. He was amazed
408 PROGRESS OF HIS DISEASE. CHAP. xxin.
to find the great change that disease had made in his
appearance ; and he insisted upon Dr. Mill being sent
for. As for the expense, he would cheerfully pay the
doctor's bill. Dick expostulated, but it was of no use.
The doctor was sent for. He put Dick under a course
of treatment for the purpose of reducing the swelling in
his limbs. Writing to his brother-in-law on the subject,
he said : " A good deal depends on the way in which we
take these things. I keep up my heart, and struggle
bravely against all my troubles."
When the doctor urged him to give up work and
engage a journeyman, he said: "All buff! my only
chance is to continue at my daily work." He therefore
continued at his work, although his legs were fit to
burst. Indeed, they did burst. But he still kept at his
work. About a fortnight before his death, his brother-
in-law, knowing the hard straits to which he was reduced,
offered to send him some money. Dick answered : " I
am no better. The swelling is steadily moving upward.
You offer to send me a present ? No, no ! But I will
take a present from you of a pair of spectacles. My
present ones are too weak." His friend, nevertheless,
sent him four sovereigns and a pair of spectacles.
He was scarcely able to write when he received his
brother's kindly gift. But he did write, with a very
straggling restless hand. He was now in bed, and never
got up again. He said : " Your kind favour of £4 came
duly, and not the spectacles as I had expected, for which
I return you many thousand thanks. I am no better.
My legs are running water, and very disagreeable." In
CHAP, xxiir. LAST LETTER TO PEACH. 409
a postscript, written the day after, he said : " The spec-
tacles are here this morning, but I am no better. Many
thousand thanks. Long life to you. Adieu!"
He had still one more letter to write. It was to his
dear friend Charles Peach. Mr. Peach did not know of
Dick's illness, but a few days before his death he wrote
him a long letter. " Dear fellow," says Mr. Peach, " what
could he do more to show the respect that he bore for
me, than by writing in his agony the subjoined letter ?
Oh ! how it cut me to know that we were so soon to
part. Although the most mournful letter that I ever
received, it is comforting to me to find that I was not
forgotten by him, even in his entrance to the dark valley."
Dick's last letter was as follows : — " Thurso, 15th
December 1866. — My dear Sir — Instead of sending you
a long letter in return for your kind one, I fear that I
cannot write to you at all. I have been for four months
unable to do anything by swollen limbs — water on the
chest in fact ; and lest I should die, I only notice you.
I am very poorly, so you will excuse me. I am not
able. No rest night or day. — Believe me ever yours
very truly, ROBERT DICK."
Mr. John Miller continued his kindness to Dick to
the end of his days. He sent his housekeeper, Mrs.
Harold, to nurse him. She attended carefully to his
wants. When she first dressed his legs, he felt much
relief. He ejaculated, "That's a blessing. It's just
like an angel sent from heaven."
He knew that he was dying. Mrs. Harold said to
him, " You may yet get better." " No !" said he ; " the
410 ROBERT DICK'S DEA TH. CHAP. xxm.
days of miracles are past." His mind occasionally wan-
dered. Once, in his agony, he exclaimed, " Oh mother !
mother !" He thought he was grasping her hand.
One night he thought that a batch was in the oven.
He was convinced that it was there, and that the bread
must be taken out. He insisted on being carried into
the bakehouse to see it. He was taken to the front of
the oven. The door was opened, and it was all black
inside. The bread was not there. The oven was never
more to be lighted. He looked round the walls, and
recognised his old drawings. He was now ready to
faint, and was taken back to his bed.
Amongst those who visited Dick towards the end of
his illness were his excellent friends Mr. John Miller,
Sir George Sinclair, Mr. Wallace the coast missionary,
Mr. Brims, procurator-fiscal, and Mr. Miller the respected
minister of the parish. Mr. Miller prayed with him, and
read to him the fourteenth chapter of St. John. Christ's
words were a great consolation to Dick on his bed of
death. Mr. Miller says of him that " he was the most
humble believer that he ever met."
Dick was ready to depart. He was wearied of life.
It was better that he should die. He had been oppressed
with poverty, and now he was oppressed with agony.
Why should he remain a little longer ? He had done
his appointed work, and was now more than resigned to
leave it. He longed to be at rest.
In the morning of the 24th of December, Robert
Dick's spirit returned to Him who gave it. Towards
the end, his sufferings left him, and he died quietly and
CHAP. xxm. SYMPATHY FOR DICK. 411
peacefully. He was left in the hands of the Wise and
Loving.
Towards the end of his life, much sympathy was
expressed for Dick and his condition. The few people
who continued to deal with him, had long known of his
illness. Four months elapsed between the time when he
was struck by death in the quarry, and the day of his
death. His customers saw him growing feebler and
feebler, panting for breath, and yet continuing at his
daily work. It was only during the last fortnight of his
life, that he finally dropped from their sight. Then they
heard of his intense sufferings, and of the unwearied
resignation and indomitable fortitude with which he
bore them. The sympathy which his illness excited was
almost intense. The Thurso people felt that a great
though comparatively unknown man was about to pass
away. At his death there was an almost universal sob
throughout the town.
He was also mourned by others who had known him
intimately, and valued him for his kindliness, his noble-
ness, and his love of science. Amongst these was
Charles Peach, of Edinburgh. "After many years of
close friendship for him," he said to Sir Roderick
Marchison, " I had come to love him. He was such
a cheerful and intelligent companion. At the same
time, he was as fond of my pursuits as I was myself;
and thus a bond of brotherhood existed between us."
Sir Roderick was then issuing the fourth edition of
his Siluria to the public. He there says — "Alas! whilst
412 MURCHISON ON DICICS DEATH. CHAP. xxin.
these pages are printing, I have to record the death of
this remarkable man. Eobert Dick was unquestionably
gifted with genius, and possessed of great original
strength of mind. That he had a strong poetic verve
was proved by his having purchased fine editions of the
works of Burns, Scott, Byron, and other poets, out of his
scanty earnings ; for he was a baker, ever much engaged
in hard manual labour. On one of my visits to Thurso,
when we were lamenting over the want of a map of
Caithness, he prepared for my instruction a model in
flour, which he manipulated into hills, valleys, and
watercourses, and thus brought into relief all the sur-
rounding country. He was as well acquainted with
every living British plant as he was with all the Caith-
ness fossils. Admiring, as I did, such energy and ability
in a modest working man, I rejoice to know that it has
been resolved to erect a monument to his memory at
Thurso." *
On the day of his death, Mr. James Mill, chief
magistrate of Thurso, issued the following announce-
ment : — " Mr. Eobert Dick died at his house here this
morning at half-past six o'clock. Through his vigorous
and energetic study of the Geology and Botany of
Caithness, he has been instrumental in developing the
natural history of our county, and in attracting the
attention of the Scientific World to its resources in no
ordinary degree ; and when we look back on his labours
in the field for the last thirty years, we feel that Robert
Dick merits from the people of Caithness a Public
* Siluria. Fourth Edition, p. 269.
CHAP. xxin. A , PUBLIC FUNERAL. 413
Funeral, as the most suitable way in which they can
express their gratitude for what he has done, and their
sorrow for his removal from amongst us. We accord-
ingly invite all who wish to testify their respect for our
departed friend to assemble at his house in Thurso on
Thursday, the 27th current, at one o'clock p.m., to
accompany his remains to the New Burial Ground oi
Thurso."
Of all the things that Eobert Dick could have desired,
the very last would have been a public funeral. He was
so modest in all that he did, so unwilling to be talked or
written about, so retired and self-sacrificing in everything
— that carrying his remains to the grave amidst the
sound of drums and trumpets would have been alto-
gether revolting to him. But all this was done by the
Thurso people in respect for his memory, and that it
might be known that a great though modest man had
gone out from amongst them.
The funeral was largely attended. Men came from
Wick and Castlehill, and from the country far and near, tc
be present. All the shops and places of business in the
town were closed during the funeral. The procession was
led by the bands of the Thurso rifles and artillery playing
the Dead March in Saul. After them were the Volun-
teer Eifle Corps and the Volunteer Artillery Corps.
Then came the coffin carried shoulder-high ; pall-bearers,
Sir George Sinclair, Bart., James Mill, Esq., Chief Magis-
trate, and William Bremner, Esq. The Clergy ; the
office-bearers of the Thurso Scientific Society ; the
various trades, — including the bakers, masons, tailors,
19
414 THE NEW CEMETERY. CHAP. xxm.
seamen and fishermen, shoemakers, merchants, pavement-
cutters, and the general public ; followed the remains
to the cemetery. It was one of the largest, most impres-
sive, and remarkable funerals, that had ever been seen
in Thurso.
The new cemetery, in which Eobert Dick's remains
were laid, is about a mile from the town. It overlooks
the banks of boulder clay on which the geologist had
spent so much of his time. The place where he had
discovered the Hierochloe borealis is near at hand, on the
sward by the river-side. Far off is seen the entrance to
the river Thurso, the ships in the offing, Dunnet Head,
and in the distance the island of Hoy in the Orkneys.
He was laid in the midst of the scenes which he knew so
well, and where he had spent so many nights of patient
and toilful plodding, while so many others were enjoying
their peaceful repose.
After the funeral came the winding up of Dick's
affairs. We have said that he was a poor man. At
his death he owed a considerable sum — over £72 — to his
flour-merchant in Leith. His mind was much troubled
before he died about how this amount was to be paid.
There were,however,the flour in his bakehouse, the books
in his library, and his furniture, such as it was, as security.
He was never able to repay his sister the sum of money
which he had borrowed from her on the shipwreck of his
flour ; but he had the sum in his clothes-chest, in sove-
reigns of many coinages, which his brother-in-law thinks
he intended to repay. But he never found himself in cir-
cumstances sufficient to enable him to return the amount,
CHAP. XXHI. SALE OF DICK'S LIBRARY. 415
If he had been able to leave anything to anybody, he
would have done so to his housekeeper, Annie Mackay,
a worthy, independent-minded woman, who had served
him faithfully for thirty years. But he died without
making any will, as he had nothing to leave.
The flour, the books, and the furniture were sold by
"public roup," and they realised sufficient to pay his
ordinary debts. The furniture of one room was given
to Annie Mackay, who still lives, to laud, amidst tears,
her kind and good "maister." How she contrives to
live is a mystery.
Dick's library was extensive. It consisted of
twenty-seven volumes on Geology, eighteen volumes on
Botany, eight volumes on Conchology, nineteen volumes
on Entomology, thirty-three volumes of the Naturalist's
Library, twenty-seven volumes of the Penny Cyclopedia,
thirty-eight volumes of the Edinburgh Cabinet Library,
and two hundred and twenty-nine volumes on miscella-
neous subjects, many of which were of a scientific cha-
racter,— in all, three hundred and eighty-nine volumes.
The whole of these were sold for £32 : 12s., or at less than
two shillings a volume. But second-hand books never
sell well, even when they are the property of a genius ;
and especially when they are of a scientific character.
While Dick lay ill, his kind friend Mr. Miller asked
his consent to apply to the Queen for a pension for his
geological discoveries. Mr. Miller's intention was to ask
Sir Eoderick Murchison to use his influence with scien-
tific men in London, to sign and support the necessary
memorial to her Majesty with that object. Dick, when
416 A PENSION TO BE ASKED FOR. CHAP. xxm.
writing to his step-sister on the 7th November, said : —
" I am not so sanguine on that point as Mr. Miller is ;
but I gave my consent to allow him to get a pension
little or muckle ; it will be a great matter to me."
But it was too late. Before the Queen's mercy could
be appealed to, a pension was no longer needed. Dick's
spirit had left its frail tenement of clay.
MONUMENT TO ROBERT DICK IN THURSO CEMETERY.
CHAPTER XXTV.
CHARA CTERISTICS.
ROBERT DICK died early. Yet he had lived mote than
most men. He had worked hard to obtain knowledge.
He had worked hard for the love of science. He did
not work for his honour and glory. He gave freely to
others, without any thought of reward. In this respect
he was entirely self-sacrificing.
We have said that his youth was unhappy. His
mother died when he was a boy, yet he remembered
her to the day of his death. After that he suffered
injustice which threw a shadow over his future life.
There was no gentleness about his bringing-up. For
relief he went to the fields and the mountains, and fell
in love with the beauties of nature. The taste never
loft him.
The tears of childhood soon dry up, and then begin
the sighs of manhood. But Dick, though brought up to
a life of hard work, was never daunted. He tried to
make the best of his life, such as it was. When he
settled at Thurso, he again threw himself into nature.
Though baffled in his affections, he forgot his sorrow in
his strivings after knowledge. His natural disposition,
though thwarted, was never soured.
418 GEOLOGY A MYSTERY. CHAP. xxiv.
The sea was his delight. He wandered along the
shores, and found things rich and beautiful and full of
wonder. Though he wandered about solitary, he had no
time for melancholy dreams. Every flower melted him,
every star touched him, even every beetle engraved
itself upon his mind. He was a reverent man. Un-
belief is blindness, but his mind was all eyes, and his
imagination was full of light, and life, and being.
The earth became to him, in a measure, transparent.
It drew him out of the narrow sphere of self-interest.
Everywhere he saw significancies, laws, chains of cause
and effect, endlessly interlinked. He could not theorise
about what he saw. He wanted the true foundation —
facts. "Let us have facts," he said, "real, certain,
unmistakable facts ; there can be no science without
them."
Geology was at first a great mystery to him. It
seemed to him, as it really was, a revelation of the
physical conditions of the by-past world. The rocks
near Thurso spoke to him of a time when the Coccos-
teus, large and small, covered with berry bones — the
Osteolepis, with enamelled bony scales — the wrinkled
ganoid Holoptychius, the gigantic Asterolepis, covered
with star scales — had ranged at will over the length and
breadth of Caithness.
All these had, at some remote period, been destroyed
by violent death, — either by a sudden retirement of the
sea, or by a sudden uplifting of the land. Platforms of
death rose one above another, story above story, the
floor of each bearing its record of disaster and sudden
CHAP. xxiv. CHANGES OF SEA AND LAND. 419
confusion. Wide areas of seas were depopulated, but
the dead fish remained. They were left in the mud.
The mud and fish became Caithness flag — now the
support of a large population. " Thus Thurso itself," said
Dick, " is built of dead fish."
But that time passed away, and the sea went rolling
over Caithness. Ponderous glaciers went grating along
the mountain sides of the Scaraben range, grinding its
rocks down into clay, and strewing the deep-sea bottom
with gigantic boulders. Amongst the boulders and
boulder clay, which forms a large part of the county of
Caithness, Dick found the numerous marine shells which
have been described in the previous pages.
All this was very mysterious to Dick. The preoccu-
pancy of the seas by the fishy tribes, and the present joint
tenancy of the land by man and the lower creation,
were two striking facts which strongly impressed his
imagination. Might not this be the first cycle of the
geological manifestation of the globe; or rather the
first of a series of cycles, at whose close the existing
races of living beings, and the gorgeous fabrics of
national vanity, shall yield their haughty relics to the
sport and desolation of the elements, — when new heavens
and a new earth shall replace the ruins of a world ?
Although Dick devoted a great part of his spare time
to botany, it was to geology that he devoted so large a
share of his attention. It was MantelTs Wonders oj
Geology that first attracted him to the subject; then
Buckland's Bridgewater Treatise, and after that Hugh
Miller's Old Red Sandstone. He had already found
420 ASSISTANCE TO HUGH MILLER. CHAP. xxiv.
the fossil bones of the Holoptychius, the gigantic ganoid
fish of the Old Red, before he became acquainted with
Hugh Miller. He sent the specimen to Edinburgh, and
received Hugh's warm acknowledgments. The corre-
spondence between them at length ripened into a warm
intimacy, and Dick continued to send to Miller, as long as
he lived, the best of his findings among the fossil fish of
Caithness. " Indeed," says Mr. Peach, " Dick was
Hugh's greatest benefactor, and gave him more solid
assistance than any other person."
Dick was one of the most unselfish of men. He
made every one free to his stores of knowledge. He
gave freely, without any hope of reward. He had no
jealousy, no mean rivalry. Though he hammered and
chiseled for fossils, sometimes at the risk of his life, he
sent everything that was valuable to Hugh Miller —
everything that was calculated to establish his views,
and to turn his gathered treasures to account in the
establishment of scientific truth. " But for him," says
one of his friends, "and his sedulous and faithful
attachment to Hugh Miller, in the capacity of 'lion's
provider ' (as was sometimes jocularly remarked between
themselves), the Footprints of the Creator might never
have been written ; or at least, being written, the great
culminating points in the argument would have been
shorn of their force and power ; and the principal facts,
and the greater portion of the descriptive geological
groundwork of the volume, would have been wanting."
By Mr. Dick's specimens of the then unknown fish,
Hu^h Miller was enabled to identify the great Russian
CHAP. xxiv. DICK'S DISCOVERIES. 421
Chelonichthys with the Asterolepis of the Caithness
beds, and to reconstruct to a certain extent this monster
of the primeval seas. Agassiz says that the remains of
the Asterolepis found by Mr. Dick at Thurso indicate a
length of from twelve feet four to thirteen feet eight
inches. It was the occurrence of this monster among
the vertebrates at such an early period of the world's
history, that gave Hugh Miller the key-note to that
elaborate argument, by which he endeavoured to con-
trovert the development theory of Oken, Lamark, and
the author of the Vestiges of Creation.
Mr. Dick not only provided the fragments by means
of which the structure of the Asterolepis was wrought
out — especially the small medium plate in the cranial
buckler, immediately over the eyes, which Professor
Sedgwick immediately recognised as " the true finish," —
but he discovered the peculiar dental apparatus of the
palate of the Dipterus,and he detected the ichthyodorulite
of the Homocanthus, which, though already found in the
Old Eed, were not previously known to exist in Scotland.
Hugh Miller was always most ready to acknowledge
his obligations to Eobert Dick. "He has robbed himself
to do me service," said Hugh Miller. And yet Dick was
so modest and unassuming, that he shrank with the
utmost sensitiveness from everything like publicity.
He had no idea of making himself famous. On the
contrary, he " blushed to find it fame " that he had gone
out of the ordinary track and done anything worthy of
being recorded in scientific books. He was willing, like
Keats, that his name should be " writ in water." " T
19*
422 DICK'S MODESTY AND SHYNESS. CHAP. xxiv.
am a quiet creature," lie said to Hugh Miller, " and do
not like to see myself in print at all." When Sir Eoderick
Murchison made the eulogistic speech about him at
Leeds, he said, " That speech has got me into a great
deal of trouble." And when Mr. Peach went to the
British Association at Aberdeen, Dick said to him,
" Pray, do not mention me ; if anybody asks about me,
say that I am well ; I want to be let alone." " His
unassuming modesty," said Sir George Sinclair, " was as
conspicuous as the wonderful amount of his knowledge."
It would be hard to imagine a more devoted lover of
science, or a more ardent and unselfish seeker-out of
knowledge for its own sake. His success in this respect
lay in his earnestness, his enthusiasm, and his persistent
perseverance. Though a solitary man, the ardour and
purity of his devotion to science saved the health of his
moral and mental nature, and enabled him to live to the
end of his days, cheerful, happy, and human -hearted.
His pursuits elevated his nature, and bore him up
against the petty annoyances of the world.
The amount of voluntary labour which Dick imposed
upon himself, in pursuit of his favourite sciences, is
something incredible. Every nook and cranny of the
county was familiar to him. The bleak bluff rocks of
Dunnet Head were as familiar to him as the shores of
Thurso Bay. The hills of Morven and Scaraben were
his playgrounds. In summer time, and even in winter,
he wandered far and near, always alone. He walked by
night to Freswick and Dunbeath in search of the boulder
clay and its marine shells. He wandered up Strath
CHAP. xxiv. LABOUR A NECESSITY. 423
Halladale in the moonlight, and came home, across the
hills, by Braalnabin, to Thurso. Or he would walk
across the country, over bog and mire, to Morven top,
and be back in time for his day's baking. He hammered
among the rocks at Murkle Bay until the moon shone
clear in the water. He clambered up and down the
rocks at Dunnet Head in search of ferns. In the early
mornings, in spring, he went up the banks of the Thurso
river to see the flowers unveiling themselves before the
light of sunrise. The hills about Eeay were among his
favourite haunts. There he transplanted the ferns which
he had brought from Dunnet Head, so that they might
be cheering the wandering botanist when he himself, as
he said, was " out of time."
Labour was an absolute necessity for him. " I find
it utterly impossible," he said, " to be idle. There is
nothing for me but regular labour. If I cannot find
any ordinary work to do, I must invent some extraordi-
nary work. I could not be, and would not be, what the
world calls a gentleman — that is, standing idle — even
though I were paid for it. The mind must be employed,
even though what occupies it is doomed to come to an
end and pass away into nothingness, and we ourselves
with it."
The intellectual labours of men such as Dick are
often spoken of as the pursuit of knowledge under diffi-
culties ; but they are also the pursuit of knowledge
under pleasure. "We forget the delight which accom-
panies the discovery of a new fact, and the enlighten-
ment of a mind thirsting for knowledge. This was one
424 HIS CAREFUL OBSERVATION. CHAP, xxiv
of the greatest pleasures of Dick's life. We forget also
the elevating and purifying effects of searching after
truth. In pursuing knowledge, he was merely serving
his higher nature.
Nor did he ever make a parade of what he knew.
He was modest and retiring. Others sought him, not
he them. He thought, like Newton, that all that we
know was as but mere shells on the sea-shore, compared
with what must ever remain unknown. And yet those
who were admitted to his intimacy were surprised at
the amount of knowledge he had acquired.
"It was impossible," says Dr. Shearer, " for one
coming into the merest casual contact with him not to
catch up some portion of his own vivid enthusiasm in
natural science ; and no man was ever better fitted by
nature as a luminous and gifted expounder of scientific
truth. His conversation was so rich that one always
came away surfeited."
"He combined in himself rare powers of original
research, and an amazing industry in the pursuit of
truth, with a sweet and winning eloquence which was
all his own. His collection of the British Flora is
almost unique in its completeness. Looking at the
difficulties he encountered in collecting it, his herbarium
is an extraordinary tribute to his diligence, skill, and
long-continued perseverance."
Dick diligently applied himself to the study of all
that lay around him. He noted with wonderful accu-
racy the He of a country. He marked upon the map
that he carriM. about with him the faults, and dips, and
CHAP. xxiv. HIS FOSSILS, 425
dislocations of the strata ; thus correcting the statements
of previous geologists. He was not satisfied with accept-
ing the statements and adopting the conclusions of
others. He would not take anything for granted that
he could see and observe for himself. When his views
as to the nature of the fossil fish, as explained by Hugh
Miller, were disputed by scientific men, he said, " Why
can't they leave their books, and come here and see for
themselves ? "
Nor was he in a hurry to connect himself with those
who traced a harmony in all respects between the cos-
mogony of the Hebrew Scriptures and the indications
of geological science. " We think," he said, " that we
have deciphered the writing on the selvage of the great
volume of the earth ; and, lo ! we proceed to erect our
fragmentary knowledge into a science, and to show its
correlation with all the other departments of truth."
Again, " Let us watch for facts, and wait." Knowing
that Nature herself must ever harmonise with truth, he
endeavoured to trace out the workings of the Almighty
in the little spot of earth to which he was confined,
with lowly and reverent adoration, and with simple,
childlike delight.
The number of fossils that he collected was very
great. With his usual generosity, he made over a con-
siderable part of them to Hugh Miller. Another
portion, containing some of his best specimens, was
sold to Mr. Miller of London, for the purpose of paying
his debts after the shipwreck of his flour. The remain-
ing fossils were found in his museum after his death.
42G
HIS HERBARIUM.
CHAP. XXIV.
The fossils sent to Hugh Miller are now to be found
in the Museum of Science and Art at Edinburgh. The
collection is marked, " Fossils used by the late Hugh
Miller to illustrate his works." The whole of those
marked " Thurso" were found by Robert Dick, though
his name does not appear on any of them.
TOWN HALL, THUKSO.
But his herbarium also exhibits the best proofs of
Eobert Dick's industry, judgment, and tenacity of pur-
pose. The collection was made over to the Thurso
Scientific Society, by Mr. Alexander, of Dunfermline,
Eobert Dick's nearest surviving relation. To tell the
truth, this extraordinary collection has been very much
neglected. The herbarium consists of about two hundred
folios, full of botanical specimens. The grasses and ferns,
and in fact all the plants, are beautifully preserved. They
CHAP. xxiv. DICK'S CHARACTER. 427
are carefully gummed on to their respective sheets, and
in the case of the Caithness plants, the habitat is always
given. The manner in which they are arranged shows
the eye of the artist. The mosses are unfinished. We
have by us the book which he carried in his side-pocket,
still full of the mosses which he was collecting and
gumming on at the time of his death.
The herbarium seems to have been thrown into a
corner, and laid on the floor. It is full of living moths,
and their grubs have already made sad havoc with the
collection of grasses in which Dick took so much pride.
The Scientific Society of Thurso ought surely to do
something to put the collection in proper order. The
respect which they entertain for Eobert Dick requires
this to be done. They will never again possess such
another botanist to collect and arrange the plants and
grasses, and ferns and mosses, of Caithness.
A few more words about Dick's character. "We
have said that he was a solitary man. He was for the
most part alone with himself. He communed much
with his own thoughts. He always made his long
journeys on foot alone. "No good work," he said,
" could be done in company." He had few real friends ;
and his relatives were far distant.
Under such circumstances, and with such a nature,
Dick was in imminent danger of losing the health of his
spirit and the just balance of his character. Such a
man is often driven to brood on himself ; or sell his life
to miserable, miserly money-making ; perhaps to drink
or self-indulgence. But Dick did none of these. Hi3
428 CHEERFUL AND SOCIAL. CHAP, xxiv
love of knowledge and science saved him. Besides, he
was childlike in his nature. He had the wonder of a
child ; he had the feelings of a child. He was always
merciful to children. He was blameless, simple, cheer-
ful, in all that he did.
Though he was naturally a man of retiring manners,
he was by no means unsociable. He had a great deal
of human nature in him. To those who knew him
besv. he was cheerful and social. He had a vein of
inno^nt fun and satire about him ; and he often
turned his thoughts into rhyme. Sir George Sinclair
said of Mm, " His temper was naturally cheerful, and
even facetious. His comely and animated countenance
beamed TMth intelligence and good humour. His
estimable a^.-l faithful attendant, who resided with him
for the long period of thirty-three years, never heard a
hasty word drop from his lips, or saw his bright coun-
tenance clouded by an angry frown. The grateful tears
which she has so plenteously shed attest the kindly
tenor of his domestic life."
Professor Shearer also adds — " He was held in
honour for his scientific attainments by a growing num-
ber of the inhabitants, and by the small number of
young men whom the little town used to send to the
universities ; while, by the working men generally, the
purity of his life and the independence of his character
secured for him a respect, which, to my own knowledge,
was never once broken. His moral character was never
called in question."
Charles Peach, who knew him so well, said of him,
CHAP. xxiv. LIVING BY HIS LABOUR. 429
" His character was thoroughly without blemish. He
never said an ill word of any one ; and never repeated
anything to another's discouragement. I regret," he
adds, "that so many of his curious and original discoveries
have been lost, because he made no communication of
them to others, and had a special aversion to what he
called ' blowing his own trumpet.' "
Dick continued poor to the close of his life. He was
content to be poor, so long as he was independent,
and free to indulge his profound yearnings after more
knowledge. Though he attended carefully to his
business, he was not successful. He was ruined by
competition. The shipwreck of his flour reduced him
almost to beggary. But he never told his Thurso friends
of his losses. He was the last man to " send round the
hat." Like Burns, he was "owre blate to seek, owre
proud to snool." When his customers left him, he said
to one of his friends — " Well, they might not have done
it. I have wrought long for them, and I have served
them well ; but it cannot be helped now."
Charles Peach, not knowing of his losses, once said
to him, that "he would soon be able to save enough
money to retire, and give himself up wholly to scientific
pursuits." A gloom fell over his countenance. " Oh
no !" said he, " I shall never do that." But he added,
" Notwithstanding the opposition that has destroyed my
trade, I am still here — a baker after all !" And he smiled
at the efforts which had been made to strangle him.
Sir George Sinclair, perhaps not knowing his struggles
to live, said after his death — "Mr. Dick's honourable
430 ANNIE MACK AY. CHAP. xxiv.
I
desire to earn his livelihood by his own exertions,
and the unremitting diligence with which he attended
to matters of business, without allowing scientific
pursuits to interfere with his daily and respectable
calling, have long since attracted my cordial admiration.
He was always at hand when wanted ; and, like
Johnson's estimable friend Lovatt,
" ' No summons mocked by chill delay —
No petty gains disdained by pride ;
The modest wants of every day
The toil of every day supplied.' "
It was fortunate for Dick's memory that he left no
debts unpaid. Everything that he owed was paid in
full ; though little was left for his faithful friend Annie
Mackay.
When I went to Thurso, I expected to obtain a good
deal of information from her about her old master.
But she could give me very little. She could not speak
for tears. " He was my good and kind maister ! " — that
was nearly all that she could tell me. But she showed
me Dick's house and the bakehouse behind, — now
divided into separate tenements.
Little more need be said about Eobert Dick. The
" unco guid " said hard things of him. They drew a
religious moral from the painfulness of his death. Poor
self-satisfied creatures ! One of Dick's sayings might
apply to them. " Some men," he said, " make an image
of God after their own hearts, and not after the image of
their Maker."
Yet all who knew Dick intimately spoke of him as a
CHAP. xxiv. DICK A RELIGIOUS MAN. 431
thoroughly religious man. His was one of those deeply
reverent natures that are essentially religious, though
not cumbered about with forms or ceremonies or sec-
tarian differences. Indeed, one of the things that drove
him from the church was the quarrels of those who
were ministers in it. Professor Shearer, of Bradford,
says, "My own opinion is strongly that in this man
were combined singular powers of thought and the
greatest devotion to natural science ; and at the bottom
of all, a truly devout and earnest spirit."
Another says, " I had a conversation with him on
this solemn subject; and I believe 'his right hand
touched God's ' — to others it might be in the dark ; but
Robert Dick knew it. He studied his Bible diligently,
and, like all his other studies, his whole soul went into
it. He held his Sabbath worship in his own house alone.
Whether we look to his upright, frugal, temperate
character as a man, or to his wonderful labour and per-
severance in his favourite studies, it is difficult to say
which most to admire. But I admire above all his
loving and reverent spirit."
Robert Dick's life tells its own moral. His manful
perseverance in encountering the difficulties of life ; his
steadfastness, his honesty, his purity ; his highminded-
ness in carrying on his business affairs ; his energy and
devotedness in cultivating his higher nature ; — all these
command our admiration.
Thus the man of the humblest condition may at the
same time do honour to his calling and elevate the con-
dition of his class. By the diligent use of his spare
432 MORAL OF DICK'S LIFE. CHAR xxiv,
time, he may even add many new facts to the con-
stantly enlarging domain of science. In the case of
Dick, how little time was misspent, how much know-
ledge was gained and communicated, — and all with so
much humbleness, modesty, and unselfishness ! It is
by men such as he that the character of a country is
elevated to the highest standard, and raised in the scale
of nations.
" Whilst the institutions and customs of men," says
Professor Sedgwick, " set up a barrier, and draw a great
and harsh line between man and man, the hand of the
Almighty stamps His first impress upon the soul of
many a person who never rises above the ranks of com-
parative obscurity and poverty. Hence arises a lesson
of great importance, — that we should learn in our walks
through life, in our mingling with the busy scenes of
the world, a lesson of practical wisdom, of kindness, of
humility, and of regard for our fellow beings."
INDEX,
AJBBCROMBY family, 7.
Acharynie, 198, 200.
Aikman, Mr., Tullibody, 17, 40, 48,
193.
Agriculture in Caithness, 33.
Allman, Professor, 266.
Alva, 2.
Al-wick, 81.
Amygdaloid, 277.
Argyll, Duke of, 285.
Asterolepis, 207, 215, 224, 272,
289, 362, 421.
Atlantic at Thurso, 24.
BABINGTON, Professor, 266, 341.
Bakehouse, Dick's, 272, 323, 381.
Baker, life of a, 19 ; bakers in
Thurso, 315.
Balfour, Professor, 74, 266, 291, 294.
Baltic rush, 255, 340.
Banniskirk, 138.
Barrogill Castle, 28, 211.
Bencheilt, 37, 193, 229.
Bencleuch, Ochil Hills, 3.
Biscuits, Dick's, 49, 396.
Bishop's Palace, Thurso, 111, 121.
Botany, Dick's first acquaintance
with, 19 ; study of, 50 ; his col-
lection, 254, 264, 426.
Boulder clay, formation of, 133, 158;
at Freswick, 169, 184 ; at Thurso,
159 ; at Dunbeath, 192.
Boulders, 180, 190, 400.
Brims, geology at, 125.
British Association, 245, 263.
Brough, 83, 95, 174.
Brown, Dr., 288, 290.
Buckland, Dr., 99, 106, 249.
Busby's oook, 99.
CAITHNESS, description of, 26.
Cambuskenneth, 5.
Carlyle, Mr. T., 286, 401.
Castles, old, in Caithness, 31, 44, 201.
Castle Campbell, 1.
Castlehill, 29, 180.
Castletown, 87, 180.
Chambers, Dr. R., 246, 367.
Character of Dick, 373, 427.
Clett, Holborn Head, 43, 124.
Cley, Norfolk, 241, 243.
Coast scenery of Caithness, 30.
Coccosteus, 100, 107, 127, 139/325,
359.
Colenso, Bishop, 400.
Competition in Thurso, 153, 313.
Conybeare on fossils in Caithness
and Cornwall, 98, 245.
Cornish geology, 245, 250.
Correspondence with Hugh Miller,
100-159.
Coutts, Baroness Burdott, 286.
Creation, one, 305.
DAM'S BURN, 10.
Darwin, Mr., 304, 309.
Deil's Brig, Holborn Head, 123.
Devon River, 1.
Dick, Robert, — birthplace, 8 ; scho-
lar, 9, 11 ; son of nature, 12, 18 ;
treatment at home, 13 ; his self-
control, 15 ; apprenticed to a
baker, 17 ; acquaintance with
Botany, 19 ; a great reader, 20 ;
becomes a journeyman, 22 ; re
moves from Greenock to Thurso
23 ; begins trade as a baker, 40 ,
Conchology, 41 ; Botany, 42 ;
Entomology, 44 ; the boys aud
434
INDEX.
the baker, 45 ; attends lectures,
Dick, Thomas, Excise officer, 8 ;
47 ; Astronomy and Phrenology,
second marriage, 10 ; made Super-
47 ; studies Botany, 50 ; buys
visor, 20 ; made Collector el
books, 52 ; buys a microscope, 52 ;
Excise, 43 ; his death, 151.
walks in the country, 56, 60 ;
Dips of Caithness rocks, 131, 218.
hunting for ferns, 61, 78 ; journey
227, 230.
to Morven top, 65 ; taken for a
Diplopterus, 137, 144, 204.
poacher, 67 ; the " Holy Grass,"
Dipterus, 137, 214.
73 ; Dorery hills, 78 ; Dunnet
Dirlot Castle, 201.
Head, 83 ; descends the Head,
Don, the botanist, 73.
88 ; studies Geology, 98 ; reads
" Donald's Flittin," 149.
" Old Red Sandstone," 99 ; cor-
Dorery Hills, 78.
responds with Hugh Miller, 100 ;
Druidical temple, 229.
discovers a Holoptychius, 108 ;
Dunbeath, 193.
journey round the Thurso coast,
Duncansby Head, 30 ; Stacks, 16d.
111 ; the west coast, 119 ; visited
Dunmyat, 3.
by Hugh Miller, 141 ; death of
Dunnet Head, 23, 81 ; lighthouse,
his father, 151 ; why he left "the
85 ; cliffs, 144, 172, 296.
Kirk," 154 ; his solitary service,
Dunnet Loch, 96.
196 ; journey to Freswick, 167 ;
Dunnet Sands, 77, 143.
to Brough, 172 ; to Dunbeath,
Durness, 257.
192 ; to Dirlot, 200 ; to Sinclair
Dwarwick Head, 84.
Bay, 204 ; to Strath Halladale,
208 ; to Haven of Mey, 211; Dick's
EGYPTOLOGY, 381.
assistance to Hugh Miller, 214 ;
Emigration from Caithness, 147,
the map, 220 ; journey to Gill's
381.
Bay, 228 ; to Bencheilt, 229 ; Dick
mourns Hugh Miller's death,
FERN- HUNTING, 61, 76, 78, 89, 296,
234 ; becomes acquainted with
341, 376.
Mr. Peach, 253 ; interview with a
Finlayson's lecture, 365.
Highlander, 268 ; interviews with
Flagstones, Caithness, 132, 316.
Sir R. Murchison, 270; Dick's
Flint, liquid, 367.
Rhymes, 277 ; shyness, 283 ;
Folkingham, 240.
friendship for medical students,
Forss, 27, 121 ; Water, 388.
288 ; illness, 300 ; plants ferns
Fossil-hunting, 100, 110, 118, 131,
throughout the county, 297, 301 ;
214, 285, 323 ; fossils sold, 335 ;
decline of business, 312 ; his hon-
new collection, 348, 359, 398.
esty, 319 ; Sir Wyville Thom-
Free Church, 148, 155.
son. 323 ; wreck of his flour, 329;
" Fresh herring," 139.
compelled to sell his fossils, 335 ;
Freswick Castle, 168 ; boulder clay
"0 waft me o'er the deep blue
at, 169-191 ; bridge at, 190.
sea," 345 ; a sleepless man, 346 ;
Freswick, journeys to, 167, 178.
recommences a collection of fos-
sils, 348 ; his temperance, 376 ;
GAELS in Caithness, 27.
Dick at home, 378 ; correspond-
Geography of Caithness, 35.
ence with Peach, 387 ; in gallop-
Geology — Dunnet Head, 90 ; Dick's
ing ruin, 395 ; his last walk, 403 ;
beginnings of, 99, 102 ; not yet
his illness, 405 ; his death, 410 ;
a science, 130 ; formation of
public funeral, 413 ; winding-tip
Caithness, 132 ; boulder clay,
tf his affairs, 414 ; his library,
133-154.
415 ; a pension proposed, 415 ;
Gilchrist, Margaret. 9.
Dick's character, 417.
GUI's Bay, 228.
INDEX.
435
Giniigo Castle, 31.
Maps of Caithness, 35, 219, 272.
Glaciers, 133, 165.
Medical students, 288.
Gorranhaven, Cornwall, 244.
Meiklejohn, Dr., 288, 308.
Gulf Stream, 24, 296.
Menstrie, 2, 4.
Gyoes in Caithness, 30, 32, 44, 85,
Metamorphic action, 366.
116.
Mey, Haven of, 211.
Microscopic shells, 369.
HAELLAN, Loch, 210.
Miller, John, F.G.S., 330, 355, 363,
Halie Loch, 96.
407.
Halley's comet, 47.
Miller, Hugh— Old Red Sandstone,
" Hammers an' chisels," 277.
99 ; correspondence with Dick,
Harold, Mrs., 409.
100 ; on working-men Geologists,
Harpsdale, 164, 178.
105 ; visits Thurso, 141 ; de-
Hart's-tongue fern, 298, 301.
scription of the coast, 144 ; cor-
Harvieston, 2.
respondence with, 100, 159-191,
Herbarium, Dick's, 254, 274, 280,
214-234 ; the fairies, the bio-
380, 426.
graphy, 236.
Highlanders, emigration of, 147,
Monk of Cambray, 261.
381.
Moraines, 122, 387.
Hills in Caithness, 33, 65.
More, Loch, 196.
Holborn Head, 24, 43, 81, 123,
Morven, 33, 65.
144.
Moss-hunting, 295, 321, 397.
Holoptychius, 101, 104, 110, 139,
Mountains of Caithness, 32, 65.
214.
Mnrchison, Sir B., 218, 257, 270,
Holothuria, Peach's, 247.
332, 411.
Holy Grass, 73, 255, 344.
Homocanthus, 217.
" NAIL " at Stromness, 354.
Honesty of Dick, 319
Natural History Society, Thurso,
Hoplocanthus, 217.
384, 486.
Hoy, Old Man of, 24, 115.
Nichol, Professor, 270.
Nesses of Caithness, England, etc.,
ICEBERGS, 133, 163, 165, 192.
26.
Noss Head, 204.
JAMIESON, Mr., Ellon, 386.
Notcutt, Mr., botanist, 265, 343.
John o' Groat's, 23, 182.
Johnson, Dr., 291.
OCHIL Hills, 1, 2, 12.
Old Red Sandstone, 86, 91, 99, 114,
KIRK, attendance at, 153, 267.
177, 219, 261.
Knox, John, 6.
Ord of Caithness, 35.
Orkney Islands, 24.
LAPLXND flora, 340.
Osteolepis, 106, 214.
Layton, Rev. J., 242.
Owen, Professor, 216, 342.
Lighthouse, Dunnet Head, 85.
Linnaeus and mosses, 295.
PARK, MUNOO, 295, 372.
Lion-hunters, 282.
Peach, Charles W.— his birth, 239 ;
Lochs in Caithness, 32 ; on Dunnet
education, 240; Riding Officer in
Head, 83, 95.
the Coastguard, 241 ; studies
zoology, 242 ; his various re-
MACCULLOCH, Dr. 257.
movals, 243; Gorranhaven, Corn-
Mackay, Annie, 43, 318, 415, 430.
wall, 244 ; collects marine fauna,
Macleod, Dr. Norman, 267.
and studies geology, 245 ; reads
Maiden Pap, 65.
a paper at British Association.
INDEX.
245 ; at York, 246 ; his micro-
Sea, description of the, 24, 30, 41,
scope, 248 ; promoted to Landing
81, 119.
Waiter at Fowey, 249 ; promoted
Sedgwick, Professor, 215, 257, 432
to Comptroller at Peterhead, 251;
Shearer, Dr., 306, 372, 374, 421.
removed to Wick, 252 ; inter-
Shearer, Professor, 234, 428.
views with Robert Dick, 252 ;
Shells, marine, 160, 163, 170, 184
researches at Durness, Suther-
194, 207.
landshire, 257 ; finds new fossils,
Shurery, Ben, 207.
258-9 ; Sir Roderick Murchison,
Sinclair, Sir George, 285, 410, 42L
272 ; rhymes sent to Peach, 277-
Sinclair, Sir John, 37.
287 ; limestone fossils, 368 ; en-
Sinclair Bay, 204.
tertained by Dick, 375; finds
Skerries, Pentlaud, 28, 168.
more fossils, 389 ; his labour, 391 ;
Skerry Ben, 65.
retirement, 392; continues his
Slater's monument, 124, 144.
researches, his honours, 393; his
Spring in the North, 56.
photograph, 394 ; last letter from
Standing Stone, Tullibody, 5.
Dick, 409.
Stratlibeg, 203.
Pension proposed for Dick, 415.
Strath Halladale, 208.
Peutland Firth, 27, 86.
Stemster, Loch, 230.
" Peri," the, 377.
Stroma, island of, 39, 182.
Perichthys Dicki, 390.
Sunday in Scotland, 155, 267.
Peterhead, Charles Peach at, 251.
Phrenology, 48.
TEMPERANCE of Dick, 55, 376.
Picts, the, 4, 28.
Thomson, Sir Wyville, 323.
Poacher, Dick taken for a, 67.
Thurdistoft, 163.
" Prince Consort," 328.
Thurso,— Dick goes to, 23 ; trade at,
Pringle, Mr., Farmer's Gazette, 344.
34; fossiliferous beds near, 112;
Pterygotus, 390.
old church, 274 ; improvement o j
Public funeral, Dick's, 413.
316.
Pudding Gyoe, 116.
Thurso Bay, 23, 41, 111, 118.
Thurso Castle, 37, 54, 432.
RANGAG, Loch, 230.
Thurso River, 59, 159, 365.
Ratter, Burn of, 211.
Thurso East, 111.
Religion, Dick's, 372, 431.
Trees in Caithness, 29, 87.
Revenue service, 241, 392.
Tullibody, 1, 17, 21.
Rhyming faculties, 277, 287.
Roads in Caithness, 34.
VERSES, Robert Dick's, 277-89, 345
Roses, Caithness, 292, 309, 341.
Rough Head, 85.
WALKING, Dick's, 55.
Royal Fern, the, 296.
Wansford, 240.
Wart Hill, 182.
SALMON at Thurso river, 23.
Weydale, 125, 134, 136, 350.
Salter's lecture, 360.
Wick, 30, 252.
Scandinavians in Caithness, 27.
Wilson's Lane, Thurso, 5J3, 271.
Scarskerry, 227.
Witness newspaper, 99, 135.
Scrabster Burn, 118, 122.
Scrabster Roads, 82, 121.
ZOOLOGY of Cornwall, 244; of Petal
Sea bird, crj of the, 25.
head, 251.
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