SB
IC-NRLF
OF THE
UNIVERSITY
OF
Price One
Kelt
mafceur
ILLUSTRATED
fcv H. HONYWOODD'OMBflA/N.
Ho* S«< of t*[* NATIONAL
LONDON: L. UPCOTT GILL, BAZAAR BUILDINGS, W.C.
"Sheffield Made Haft
and Blade "
THE
Hardy Patent Pick Co., Ltd.,
Sheffield.
These Marks are what you
should find on your GARDEN
TOOLS when you ask for the
best—" HARDY'S."
These Tools are supplied
through Traders, and if your
own Dealer has not previously
supplied them we will send him
Samples Carriage Paid.
The
Hardy Patent Pick Co.
Ltd.,
SHEFFIELD, ENGLAND.
TO
Cultivate Roses
IN PERFECTION USE
CLAY'S FERTILIZER
OR I
Plant Food
WHICH PRODUCES ALL
FLOWERS, FRUITS, VEGETABLES AND FOLIAGE
IN THE HIGHEST PERFECTION AND ABUNDANCE.
IT IS SAFE, QUICK AND LASTING.
It is used by Government and Local Authorities, and by
Horticulturists throughout the World.
v AV*
Qj^ \S* Sol<1 Evefywhere in 6<I- anfl I*- Tins; and in SEALED
^ ;« BAGS:— 7 lbs., 2s. 6d. ; 14 lbs., 4s. 6d. ; 28 lbs., 7§. 6d.,
'" LONDON rU 56 lbs" I2s- 6d-; 112 lbs" 20s- Of (Urect from the Works,
71 /^ Carriage Paid in the United Kingdom for Cash with Order
A*t (except 6d. Tins).
i*' Every Genuine TIN, BAG, and SEAL bears the
TRADEMARK, "ADE MARK.
the Article on Roses
BY MR. H. C. PRINSEP
CLAY'S SUCCESSFUL GARDENING
Containing Instructions upon all Horticultural Topics by eminent
writers. Illustrated, Enlarged ani Revised, Cloth Bound,
NINEPENCE, Post Free, or of Seedsmen.
Write for full Price List of Manures, Chemicals, and Sundries. Best only.
MANURE MANUFACTURERS,
BONE CRUSHERS, ETC.
STRATFORD, LONDON, E.
A
THE ROSE.
THE NATIONAL FLOWER.
THE PEOPLE'S FLOWER
We a,sk for Enquiries.
NOVELTIES.
We make a speciality of these, try them well, and
offer our wonderful
COLLECTION OF NEW ROSES.
This collection contains 18 of the best new varieties in
dwarf plants, carefully selected for superior excellence.
Please send for particulars and list No. Si
Post Free on application.
H. MERRYWEATHER & SONS, LTD.,
Dept. S., Southwell, Notts.
"Electroplasm
(FERTILISER).
F.lectroplasm, on Protoplasm,
in Horticulture, is the
EIGHTH WONDER
OF THE WORLD.
The Cheapest and Bsst Fertilizer. You will always use it if you do
but try it. Of all Seedsmen or Manure Merchants, or wholesale only,
in Sealed Bags, from the makers : —
JOSEPH ROBINSON & CO., Limited,
10, GROOMS HILL, GREENWICH.
Agents wanted in Towns not represented.
PURE ICHTHEMIC GUANO.
The Best Fertilizer for Roses,
Sold in Tins 6d., i/-, & 2/6; Bags, i4lbs. 4/6, 281bs. 7/6,
561bs. 12/6, nalbs. ao/-. Carriage Paid on quantities of
281bs. and upwards.
To be obtained of all Florists and Seedsmen, or direct of
The Sole Proprietors and Manufacturers,
WILLIAM COLCHESTER & CO.,
IPSWICH.
1£:QM»KIRS9
NOTICE IPllik lSpfep%ffi®WW 1908.
IF YOU WANT
REALLY GOOD BULBS AND SEEDS
AT MODERATE PRICES,
send to
MR. ROBERT SYDENHAM,
TENBY STREET, BIRMINGHAM.
No one will serve you better.
HIS UNIQUE LISTS
sent post -Free on application,
Are acknowledged by all to be the Best, Cheapest, and most Reliable ever
published. They contain only the Best
VEGETABLES, FLOWERS AND BULBS
WORTH GROWING.
Being the Selections of the Largest Seed Growers, Market Gardeners, and.
the most celebrated Professional Gardeners and Amateurs in the Kingdom.
They also contain very useful cultural instructions.
SWEET PEAS A SPECIALITY.
No flowers give so much cut bloom at so little cost and trouble if treated as
instructions sent with each Collection.
12 good varieties, 5O seeds of each in separate packets,
1s 6d ; 12 better varieties, EO seeds of* each, Is. 9d ; oar the
Two Collections for 2s. Gd. ; a Third Collection of tho 12 best
varieties, CO seeds of each, 2s ; or the Three Collections,
4s. post free, and a Packet of the four best striped and four
other varieties free of charge; the best and cheapest
Collection ever offered, at about One Penny a Packet.
THE BEST TOMATOES, 3d. per packet of 2OO Seeds.
THE BEST CUCUMBERS, 6d per packet of 1O Seeds.
THE BEST ONIONS FOR EXHIBITION.
EXCELSIOR, 6d. per packet of about 1,5OO Seeds.
AILSA CRAIG, Gd per packet of about 1.2OO Seeds.
Please compare these prices with what you are paying.
ALL OTHER SEEDS EQUALLY CHEAP AND GOOD.
Mr. SYDEN HAM'S SEEDS AND BULBS have been represented
and gained as many First Prizes at London, Birmingham,
Cardiff, Preston, Edinburgh, Ncwcastlc-on-Tyne, Plymouth,
Hanley, Shrewsbury, Taunton, Wolverhampton, &c., &c., for
the past twelve years, as any firm in England.
FULL LISTS POST FREE ON APPLICATION.
A 2
USEFUL STANDARD WORKS.
Dictionary of Gardening.
A Practical Encyclopaed'a, for Amateurs and Professionals. Illus-
trated with 3150 Ergravings. Edited by G. NICHOLSON, Curator of
the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew ;
assisted by Eminent Specialists.
In 5 vols., large post 4/0. Cloth
gilt, price ^4, carriage faid
^4 is. 6d.
Open-Air Gardening.
An Excellent Work on the Culture
of Hardy Flowers, Fruit and
Vegetables. Beautifully Illus-
trated. In demy Sro, cloth gilt,
price 6/- nett, by post 6/5.
Alpine Plants.
With Illustrations from photo-
graphs by CLARENCE ELLIOTT.
In cloth, price 3/6 nett, by post 3/9.
Orchids :
Their Culture and Management. A Magnificent Book. Beautifully
Illustrated with 180 Engravings and 20 Coloured Plates. In demy
8vo, cloth gilt extra, price 2$j- nett, by post 25/6.
Cactus Culture for Amateurs.
A Practical Book giving clear and detailed Instruc-
tions. Profusely illustrated. In cloth gilt, price ^\-
nett, by post 5/4.
Greenhouse Construction and Heating.
Fully describing the best apparatus and giving
Instructions for Fixing the Same. Illustrated. In
cloth gilt, price 3/6 nelt, by post 3/9.
Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.
A Useful, Comprehensive and Practical Book. Magnificently Illus-
trated. In cloth gilt, price 5/- nett, by post 5/4.
Choice Ferns for Amateurs.
Their Culture in the Open and Under Glass. Numerous Illustrations.
In cloth, price 3/6 nett, by pest 3/9.
Fruit Culture for Amateurs.
A Practical Handbook with Chapters on Insect and other Fruit
Pests by W. D. DRURY. Illustrated. In cloth gilt, price 3/6 nett,
by post 3/10.
London: L. UPCOTT GILL, Bazaar Buildings, Drury Lane, W.C.
ABOL, White's Superior, Insecticide.
NON-POISONOUS, MANUFACTURED UNDER A NEW PATENT.
A really Cheap, Safe, and
Effective Concentrated In-
secticide for Gardens and
Greenhouses.
Excellent Remedy for
Mildew.
Kills all kinds of Aphis,
Green and Black Fly,
American Blight, Cater-
pillars, etc.
>oes three times as far as
most Insecticides.
A complete Success.
Try it and satisfy yourself.
You will not be
disappointed.
Pint 1/6 ; Quart 2/6 ;
Half-Gall. 4/«; Gall. 7/6.
The "ABOL" Syringe,
With Patent Spray Nozzle, Patent Drip
Preventer or Patent Protector, etc.
PRICES :-From 8/6 to 14/6. By Post 4d. extra. BENDS 1/6 each.
May be had through all Seedsmen and Florists, or on receipt of remittance direct from the
SOLE PROPRIETORS—
E. A. WHITE, LTD., Manufacturers,
Belting, Paddoch Wood, KENT.
BENTLEY'S COMPOUND QUASSIA EXTRACT.
The perfect Insecticide for destroying Aphis and Mildew on
roses. -Not the slightest risk to foliage. Each gallon makes from
So to 100 gallons ready for use. 10 gals. 3s. 5d. per gallon ; 5 gals.
3s. 6d. per gallon, in five-gallon drums, charged halt cost, 9d., not
returnable ; 1 gal. 4s. ; £ gal. 2s. 4d. ; i quart Is. 5d.
Carriage paid on ?s. 6d. orders and upwards.
Sole Manufacturers: —
JOSEPH BENTLEY, LIMITED,
Chemical Works, Barrow-on-H umber, HULL.
f i
99
Reg. Trade Mark.
The Ideal Garden and Greenhouse Fertiliser.
Magnificent Roses, Sweet Peas, and other flowers assured by
using "SHEFA." Odourless. A is. 6d. tin sufficient for 5ogals.
preparation, or use i teaspoonful to a gallon. Contains over 9%
Nitrogen, over 30^6 Sol. Phosphates, and over 25% Potash.
Coupons for Cash Prizes and Pictures.
Tins 1/6, 2/6, and 5/- Post Free for remittance with order.
VALROFF & CO., Horsclydown, Tower Bridge, LONDON.
EACH
I/
NET.
TEN
. EXCELLENT
BOOKS.
EACH
NET.
Each, by post, Is. 2d.
Home Gardening in all its
Branches— Flower, Fruit, and
Vegetable. Second Edition.
Illustrated.
Carnation Culture in the Open
Ground and in Pots. Third
Edition. Illustrated.
Chrysanthemum Culture for
Exhibition and the Market. Third
Edition. Illustrated.
Popular Bulb Culture, both in the Open
and Under Glass. Second Edition. Fully
Illustrated.
Begonia. Culture, for Amateurs and Pro-
fessionals, Under Glass and in the Open
Air. Third Edition. Illustrated.
Grape Growing. A thoroughly Practical Book
on Successful Vine Culture. Illustrated.
JB
Mushroom Culture, in Houses, Sheds,
Cellars, and Pots, on Shelves, and on Pas-
ture Lands. Second Edition. Illustrated.
Toma.to Culture. A Practical and Complete
Manual. Third Edition. Illustrated.
Cucumber Culture, including Melons,
Vegetable Marrows, and Gourds. Second
Edition. Illustrated.
Vegetable Culture. With Lists of the Best Varieties of Each
Sort. Illustrated.
London: L. UPCOTT GILL, Drury Lane, W.C.
All made in wood.
FOR ROSES.
Trellises,
Arches,
Pergolas,
Pillars,
Umbrellas,
&c., &c.
Artistic in design, strong in construction, and
moderate in price.
Price lists free.
WALTERS & CO.,
1 6, Water Lane, Great Tower Street, London, E.G.
ACME LABELS.
SAMPLES AND PRICE LISTS FREE of all
Nurserymen and Seedsmen, or direct from
SOLE MANUFACTURER —
JOHN F»INCHES,
3, Crown Buildings, Crown Street, CAMBERWELL, S.E.
WEEDY LAWNS, TENNIS COURTS,
BOWLING GREENS, &c.
Transformed into a perfect sward of beautiful rich-coloured grass by a dressing of " CLIMAX "
LAWN SAND, which, if sprinkled over the grass, possesses the remarkable property of destroying
Moss, Daisies, PUntains, and other weeds on Lawns, Tennis Courts, Bowling and Golf Greens, at
same time promoting the growth of the finer grasses to such an extent that the spaces previously
occupied by the disfiguring weeds are q lickly covered by a perfect sward of fine, close growing
grass, of good colour, which will retain its freshness under adverse conditions of continuous use
and drought.
Whan to apply.— "CLIMAX" LAWN SAND may be applied at almost any season of
the year, selecting a dry morning with a p ospect of 24 to 48 hours of settled weather. Should
the weather be very hot and dry, copious waterings should be given at the expiration of 48 hours,
The Effect of an application is apparent within a few hours, the weeds blacken and die,
but the grass quickly recovers its colour, and young growths appear on the bare spots previously
occupied by the weeds.
Quantity Required —28 Ibs, will dress 100 square yards (i.e., 10 yards by 10 yards)
where weeds are plentiful; but where there are only few weeds, the abovj quantity will dress
150 square yards.
Prices (Carriage Paid).— Packages free ; sample tin I/- ; 7 Ibs. 2> ; 14 Ibs. 3,6 ; 28 Ibs. 6/- ;
56 Ibs. ll/- ; i cwt. 20/- ; 5 cwt. 90/- ; 10 cwt. 170/- ; 20 cwt. £16 10s.
EVERY WEED DESTROYED, ™V°*RRIAOE
ROOT AND BRANCH.
ROADS, &c.,
By a. Single Application of CLIMAX WEED KILLER.
BY ITS USE hoeing and weeding are dispensed with, and the suiface remains in a firm and
br'ght condition. Although poisonous, there is no danger attending its use when used according
to the directions printed on each package. It doe-; not burn, stain, nor smell offensively. It has
been used extensively during the past fifteen years by surveyors, Local Government Boards, estate
agents, gar.leners, and others, in every county in the United Kingdom.
Liquid Weed Killer. — One gall, makes 51 galls., sufficient for 160 ti 200 square yards.
PRICES (carriage paid) : J-gall. 2,3 (tin free) ; i gall 3 6 (drum 9d.| ; 2 galls. 7 - (drum 1/6) ; 3 galls.
1O/- (drum 2S.I ; 4 galls. 12,6 (drum 2,6) : 5 galls. 15/- (drum 2/6) ; 10 galls. 27/6 (drum s/-) ; 20 galls.
55/- (cask 5'-); 40 galls. 100/- (cask s/-). Cost of drums will be refunded wlun returned, carriage
paid, in good order and condition.
Powder Weed Killer.— Packed in air-tight tins. Mixes readily in cold water without
heat or fumes. Equal in effectiveness to the liquid. Convenient to store and handle, it will keep for
an indefin'te period. Measure to make small quantity enclosed with eac'i order.
Prices (Carriage Paid). Tins free. No. 1 Tin makes 25 galls., to dress 80 to 100 yards, 23 ;
2 tins 3/9 ; 12 tins 21'-. No. 2 Tin makes 100 galls., to dress 320 to 400 square yards, 7/- ; 2 tins
14/- ; 5 tins 32 6 ; 10 tins 62/3 ; 20 tins 120/-.
ANTS, SLUGS,
WIREWORM, WOODLICE, Destroyed,
"ALPHOL,"
AND THE GROWTH OF ALL
PLANTS GREATLY IMPROVED
BY ONE OR TWO DRESSINGS OF
A valuable manure, which, in addition to promoting the growth of all plants, will also destroy
every variety of insect in the soil.
It is a dry, non-poisonous powder which may be used with safety at any season. It should be
freely used during autumn, winter, and spring digging to destroy wireworm and the larva; of other
insects in the soil. FOR SLUGS, ANTS, AND WOODLICE, a light sprinkling on the surface is
quite sufficient, but Lir wireworm, ee.worm, millipedes, and other pests of a similar nature, it should
be dug into the soil. When miking up heaps of potting soil, manure or leaf mould, an occasional
sprinkling as the work proceeds will destroy worms and other insects, and also increase its manurial
value. By a free use of " ALPHOL," ground which previously teemed with insect life will grow
splendid crops.
Quantity Required. — On medium and heavy land 28 Ibs. will dress 250 square yar Is or
5 cwt. will dress an acre ; on light sandy land, :$ per cent, more will be required ; for compost and
manure heaps 7 to 14 Ibs. to each ton.
Pricas (Carriage Paid).— 7 Ibs. 2/- ; 14 Ibs. 3/- ; 28 Ibs. 5/- ; 56 Ibs. 8,6 ; i cwt. 15 - ; 5 cwt.
75/- ; 10 cwt, £7 ; 20 cwt. £13 10s. (Sample Tin Is., postage 4d.)
Any Enquiry welcomed by the Manufacturers—
THE BOUNDARY CHEMICAL CO., Ltd.,
CRANMER STREET, LIVERPOOL.
Roses for Amateurs.
o* FLOWER * KITCHEN GARDEN
BARR'S SEED GUIDE (free)
Contains a Select List of the Best Seeds for securing a supply of Vegetables "The Year Round,"
and a full Descriptive List of the most beautiful Annuals and Perennials for keeping the Flower
Garden and Greenhouse always gay. It is full of Practical Hints on the culture of Vegetables and
Flowers valuable to Gardeners, Amateurs and Exhibitors.
BARR'S COLLECTIONS OF
SUPERIOR VEGETABLE SEEDS.
5/6, 7/9, 12/6, 2 1/-, 42/-f 93/- to I05/-.
BARR'S COLLECTIONS OF
CHOICE FLOWER SEEDS.
2/6, 5/6, 7/6, 10/6, IS/-, 21/-, 30/-, 42/-, 63/-.
Full particu1 ars on application.
BEAUTIFUL HARDY
QOLD /V\ED4L r\
THE MOST LOVELY OF- ALL SPRINQ pLQWERS
burr's Daffodils were awarded the only Gold Medal at the Royal Horticultural Societys'
First Great Daffodil Conference, 1884; Premier Prize, 1894; Gold Medal, 1896; Gold
Medal, 1899; Two Gold Medals, First Prize, and £10 los. Challenge Cup, 1901; Two
Gold Medals, 1902 ; Gold Medal, 1903; Gold Medal, 1904; Gold Medal, 1905; Two Gold
Medals, 1906 ; and Two Gold Medals, 1907.
Barr's ai/- Amateur's Collection of Daffodils contains 6 Bulbs each of 26 high-class
Daffodils, suitable for the Greenhouse or Select Flower Border.
Barr's 2i/- "Woodland" Collection of Daffodils contains 500 Bulbs in 20 fine showy
varieties, suitable for naturalizing in grass, shrubberies, etc.
BARR'S COLLECTIONS OF BULBS.
FOR INDOORS AND OUTDOORS.
Barr's 2i/- "Greenhouse" Collection contains 500 Spring-flowering Bulbs, of finest
quality.
Barr's 2i/- Flower Garden Collection contains 600 Spring and Summer-flowering Bulbs,
all decorative.
Barr's ai/= "Woodland" Collection contains 800 Bulbs, suitable to naturalise in
Woodlands, Orchards, Wild Gardens, etc.
For full particulars of the above and other Collections, see Barr's Bulb Catalogue.
BARR & SONS, 11, 12, & 13 King St.,Covent Garden, LONDON.
Nurseries :-Surbiton, Surrey. Visitors invited.
Roses for
Amateurs :
A Practical Guide to the Selection
and Cultivation of the Best Roses
for Exhibition or Garden Decoration.
ILLUSTRATED.
BY THE LATE
REV. H. H. D'OMBRAIN, V.M.H.,
Hon. Sec. of the National Rose Society ;
Editor of the " Rosarians' Year Book," &c.
THIRD EDITION,
Revised and much Enlarged, with a Chapter on Insects and
Fungi Injurious to Roses,
By W. D. DRURY, F.E.S.,
Author of "Insects Injurious to Fruit," " Home Gardening,"
" Popular Bulb Culture," &c.
LONDON :
L. UPCOTT GILL, BAZAAR BUILDINGS, DRURY LANE, W.C.
NEW YORK :
CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS, 153-157, FIFTH AVENUE.
1908.
BARNARDS, LIMITED.
Every Requisite for Rose Growers.
No. 672.
The most tasteful arrangement possible for a bed of
Rambler Roses, comprising five Pillars, and connecting
rods for bed, i3ft. 6in. diameter.
Cash price - - J53 15s. Od.
The Suffield Rose Pillar.
8ft. high, i2in. face ... 14/6
loft. ,, lain. ,, ... I7/-.
New Frames for Con-
volvulus, Nasturtiums,
Peas, etc.
48m. high, izin. dia. 4/-
36in. ,, i2in. ,, 3/9.
Canopy Frames for Weeping Roses, sft. gin. high,
3ft. 6in. diameter 1O/6 each complete.
Makes a charming arrangement for such favourites
as Dorothy Perkins, Queen Alexandra, &c., &c.,
Carnage Paid on 40j- nett value.
Norfolk Iron Works,
Norwich.
Publisher's
Preface.
SINCE the last edition of this popular manual was issued
its venerable author has passed away. For some time prior
to that untoward event, however, the cultivation of the
Rose had advanced by leaps and bounds, and it was realised
that a revised edition was required. It was hoped that
the task of producing this would have devolved upon him
who had done so much towards bringing the Rose to the
state of perfection which it now enjoys. This, however,
was not to be, for increasing years, with their attendant
infirmities, prevented the reverend gentleman from under-
taking a task for which, alike from his practical acquaint-
ance with the subject and from the office he filled in
connection with the National Rose Society (of which he was
the founder), he was so eminently qualified.
It was, therefore, necessary to seek other assistance,
with the result that the work has been undertaken by a
gentleman of large experience as a practical and successful
Rose-grower, and one who has paid an unusual amount of
attention to the diseases and insects that afflict the Rose.
Still, every respect has been paid to the sound teachings of the
author whose name is perpetuated by the work, and wherever
possible they have been retained. Such being the case, it
is hoped that the manual, in its new form, will appeal to
an even wider section of the garden-loving public than its
much-appreciated predecessor.
CANARY GUANO The Best
Fertilizer.
Tins 6d.. I/-, and 2/6 each.
Bags 4/6, 7/6. 12/6. and 20/- each.
GARDO TheBest
Insecticide.
Tins I/-. 1/6. 2/6. and 4/6 each.
Drums 7/6. 13/6. and 30/- each.
articles are used all over tfie world, 'dftey
given marvellous results, and are greatly favoured
by leading exhibitors, amateur and professional.
CANARY GUANO and GARDO
Are sold by Seedsmen, Nurserymen, and Florists.
A FREE "TWENTIETH CENTURY
COPY OF GARDENING,"
and full particulars of Canary Guano and Gardo
are sent gratis and post free upon application to
the Manufacturers —
The Chemical Union, Ltd,
IPSWIOH.
CONTENTS.
PAGE
INTRODUCTORY . i
ROSE STOCKS . • . 3
CULTIVATION 8
PROPAGATION . . ; 15
PLANTING — AFTER-CULTURE 25
TEAS, HYBRID TEAS, AND NOISETTES OUTDOORS . 37
ROSES UNDER GLASS . . . ... . .46
EXHIBITING ROSES 57
VARIETIES FOR DECORATION AND EXHIBITION . . .65
GARDEN ROSES . 76
ROSES FOR SPECIFIC PURPOSES 78
BRIEF CLASSIFICATION OF GARDEN ROSES ... 83
ROSE FRIENDS AND FOES . . . . . .90
ANIMAL 91
VEGETABLE 108
FOR FASCINATING
HARDY FLOWERS
For Town or Country Gardens, for Beds, Borders,
Shrubberies, etc., apply to
KELWAY & SON,
who offer the largest and finest collections of every
kind, grown in their extensive Nurseries.
Do not be content with the old worn-out varieties,
but plant Kelway's celebrated improved forms also.
They will increase the beauty of your garden 100
per cent.
KELWAY'S MANUAL of HORTICULTURE,
The best descriptive garden catalogue published, will be
sent for Is. 6d. post free (deducted from first order) ;
it is very beautifully illustrated, and contains valu-
able information concerning Hardy Perennial Gar-
dening, etc.
KELWAY & SON,
XKe Royal Horticulturists,
LAIXGPORT, SOMERSET.
2CC §old and Silver Medals, teondon, Paris, Q&ieaGo,
St. Jsouis, Jtaly, Sdinburgd, Dublin, Manedester, etc., etc.
Roses for
Amateurs.
Introductory.
IN commencing this little work on the Rose, it may be
advisable to say why it is undertaken in the face of the
existence of so many excellent books on the subject, from
Canon Hole's amusing and instructive book, and the very
practical and monumental ones by Mr. William Paul and
Foster Melliar, down to the sixpenny treatises on the same
subject. The object aimed at is to write in a manner that
may be useful to the thousands of persons, every year
increasing in numbers, who love to grow the Rose for its
own sake without any after-thought as to exhibition. Most
of the books seem to have this latter as their main object ;
the desire here will be to make it a secondary one (for
no treatise on the Rose can be complete without it), and to
consider especially owners of small gardens, who are
oftentimes the most zealous and successful cultivators of any
flower that they take in hand, but are too often left out in
the cold by writers who seem never to imagine that there is
such a thing as limitation of space or means.
When alluding to the history of the Rose, there is not the
slightest idea of taking readers back to ancient days, to give
quotations from books that we have never read, or to affect a
B
2 Hoses for Amateurs.
folk-lore knowledge we do not possess. Anyone desirous of
pursuing these subjects may have his wishes fully gratified so
far as the former is concerned by reading " Ros Rosarum,"
by F. V. B., and as regards the latter, " Plant-Lore,"
by Folkard, in both of which they are exhaustively treated.
What we have to do with more particularly here is the
history of the Rose in our own days, and the causes which
have contributed to its cultivation in these islands to an
extent which has never been known before. When we
recollect the position the Rose used to occupy in gardens,
we are confronted with the remembrance of a large number
of summer Roses in our gardens that were a blaze of beauty
in June when Provence, Gallica, Moss, and other Roses of a
similar character were those cultivated; when the Tea and
Noisette were comparatively unknown ; and when, if any
Roses were to be had later on, the China or old Monthly
Rose was the source of supply. Later on, the Hybrid Per-
petuals and Teas came to be known, and Standards were
greatly in favour, and every year the Rose-man appeared
with his bundle of stocks, to obtain which he had no doubt
committed a considerable amount of trespass.
An important factor in the present great popularity of the
Rose was the establishment of the National Rose Society in
1876. At that time Rose exhibitions (which, after all, do
most for the extension of the cultivation of tho flower) were
at a low ebb. Many shows were of two days' duration, and
the public had on the second day but a poor idea of what the
Rose really is ; while the provincial shows were few, and
small in extent. Thursday, yth December, 1876 (when, in a
crowded room, in the midst of weather of a most depressing
character, the founding of the National Rose Society was
determined on), must ever be a memorable day in the history
of the Rose. The main object of this Society was to
encourage the cultivation of the flower, to promote national
exhibitions of it in London and the provinces, and to dis-
Rose Stocks. 3
countenance as far as possible two days' shows; and the
impetus it gave to Rose-growing all are free to acknowledge.
Each year since then the Society has held exhibitions, not
only in London, but in such large provincial centres as Shef-
field, Manchester, Southampton, Bath, Birmingham, and
Darlington, and wherever they have been held they have
stimulated the growth of the Rose, and induced many who
had not hitherto attempted its cultivation to commence. The
National Rose Society has likewise given a better knowledge
of the flowers; has published instructions for cultivation,
issued an elaborate and most carefully-illustrated catalogue
of the best Roses, both for exhibition and for the garden,
and has greatly encouraged a kindly intercourse between all
lovers of the Rose, which has been productive of much good.
Societies affiliated with it have sprung up in all parts of
the kingdom, and to obtain its honours is a most coveted
matter with Rose-growers.
Before dealing with the cultural part of our subject it
will be well briefly to glance at the various stocks employed,
as they have an important bearing on the future of the
plant.
Rose Stocks.
The Briar Standard.
For many years the Standard held its place pre-eminent
amongst Rose-cultivators, but the experience of some severe
winters was so painful, and the losses were so great, both
here and in France, that growers gradually came to the
conclusion that it was safer and better to grow Dwarfs. The
Standard Rose could never be considered a " thing of
beauty," and when to its extreme ugliness there was added
the probability of its succumbing to a severe winter, it was
gradually put on one side. There are still people who fancy
that a villa garden cannot be complete without a row of
Standard Roses, planted at equal distances on the grass or
B 2
4 Roses for Amateurs.
along the drive; and there are many who still hold to the
opinion that no Rose that can be grown equals a Maiden
Bloom on the Standard Briar. While, therefore, the Standard
is year by year falling into disfavour, so far as the average
amateur is concerned, there are not a few specialists who
swear by it for the production of exhibition blossoms of the
highest class, and especially for those belonging to the Tea
section. There is, therefore, no likelihood of its being entirely
superseded. There can be little room for doubt that when
Roses are in a cold or a bleak position they would be less likely
to fall victims if grown as Dwarfs. Still, were it not for
the Standard Stock our Rose-gardens would be bereft of what
is often a most strikingly beautiful addition — namely, the
Weeping Roses, of which Francis Crousse and Wichuraiana
are well-known types. These are worked upon Standard
Stocks. Again, the Standard Rose is costlier at first hand,
to say nothing of the after-care in the provision of suitable
stakes and ties.
The Manetti.
The introduction of the Manetti Stock, by the late Mr.
Rivers, of Sawbridgeworth (equally responsible for the
introduction of the Standard Briar Stock), who received it
from Italy more than sixty years ago, certainly tended to the
increased cultivation of the Rose, and to its present wide
popularity. It was raised in the Botanic Gardens at Monza,
and created quite a revolution in Rose-growing : it was
found so vigorous, so easy to propagate by cuttings, and the
bark ran so readily, that it soon became a general favourite.
The stock was propagated by hundreds of thousands, and
we think it cannot be denied that there is a large number of
Rose-growers who, but for it, would have been deterred from
ever attempting their cultivation. There was one class of
Roses, however, which it did not suit — Teas ; its growth was
too strong, and overpowered the more delicate growth of
Rose Stocks. 5
the Rose, and consequently for these the Briar still held its
own. As a stock for certain Ramblers (the world-famous
Crimson included) it is excellent j but we could not recom-
mend the amateur when ordering a collection of Roses to
specify for them on the Manetti Stock, as such would be
sure to give dissatisfaction, it being a notorious fact that they
are failures when thus removed, gradually becoming less
robust until they finally succumb. Often the sucker-like
growths that are thrown up (deceiving even in their appear-
ance many old stagers) are all that remain of what were once
things of beauty.
Briar Cutting.
This is the third stock employed by the Rosarian in the
production of what are known as Dwarfs, the Manetti and
the Briar Seedling being the other two. So far as the
amateur is concerned, it is the stock, because he may obtain
his material in the autumn, and if he is lucky anticipate the
budding thereof a couple of summers hence. The majority
of amateurs, however, will prefer to start with established
plants from the nurseries, and first gain experience. Such
will not do wrong by putting their faith in the Briar Cutting
Stock, and certainly if they are about to essay either Teas
or the Hybrid Teas. We have tried Standards and Briar
Cuttings for certain leas of the more vigorous varieties, of
which the two Maman Cochet may be mentioned as types, but
the latter stock was far and away the best for the purpose.
Roses on the Briar Cutting are not so early as on the less
certain Manetti. A point to remember in connection with the
different stocks is the way that the roots are made. If a
well-grown Rose from the Briar Cutting be examined at the
roots it will at once be seen that there is a great tendency for
these to be produced much nearer the surface than is the
case with those of the Manetti ; while those of the Briar
Seedling are disposed to strike downwards. On very dry
6 Roses for Amateurs.
soils in hot weather, unless a mulch is employed, such roots
necessarily suffer ; but considered from every point of view
White Maman Cochet (T.), one of thz best of its class in cultivation ; must
be lightly pruned.
there can be no question of the superiority of the Briar
Cutting as a stock.
Rose Stocks. 7
The Briar Seedling.
When Mr. George Prince, of Oxford, introduced the
Seedling Briar into fuller notice it caused a mild sensation ;
and as \ve well remember seeing that cultivator's Early Roses
we can testify to their great beauty. We say into fuller notice,
because the French growers had already used it largely for
grafting in pots, especially the new varieties of Roses which
they were every year introducing ; but it is to Mr. George
Prince that we are indebted for the great popularity it has
attained, more especially with regard to the Tea Rose, for
which it seems particularly well suited when grown in a
light soil. The finer growth of this class seems to take
to it most kindly, although there are good reasons for
believing that it is suited to almost all varieties of Roses ;
but to the lover of the Tea Rose it has been a wonderful
boon, and people who never dreamed of attempting its culti-
vation have been enabled to do so with considerable success.
Another point in favour of the Briar Seedling is that there
is nothing like the same tendency to produce suckers as there
is in the Manetti or even in the Briar Cutting. Against it
so far as the class of readers to whom this book ostensibly
caters is concerned is the fact that such stocks, being raised
from seed, are necessarily a long time in arriving at the
stage when they may be " worked." This is a decided dis-
advantage, as quite a large number of Rose-cultivators would
lose not a little of the enthusiasm the hobby begets if they
were unable to superintend all the operations in connection
with their favourites.
Growing Dwarf Stocks.
As we have stated elsewhere, it is far preferable for the
average amateur to purchase his stocks for dwarf Roses
than to attempt their cultivation. Still, it may be stated
that in making cuttings of either Manetti or Briars for stocks,
all the buds except the two uppermost ones should be care-
8 Roses for Amateurs.
fully removed. The object of this is to prevent as far as
possible growths springing up from below.
Cultivation.
Requirements.
While those who grow Roses extensively do so without
much reference to their appearance as garden flowers, and
are mainly concerned as to their well-being for exhibition,
many who are very fond of the flower are too often utterly
regardless of their wants, and plant them about in all sorts of
places, without any idea of massing them, or of giving them
a fair chance of either growing or blossoming well. Nothing
can be more deplorable than the manner in which Roses are
sometimes treated; and then, when their owners go to an
exhibition, and see the splendid flowers shown, they come
away in no very amiable mood, and perhaps vent their wrath
on their gardener, utterly ignoring the conditions under which
exhibition flowers are grown, and also the fact that, most
probably, they had given him directions to plant them in
unsuitable places, perhaps because the grower thought they
would look well, or because my lady wished it to be so. Very
frequently, also, no consideration whatever is given to the
difference in climate or situation whence these Roses have
come, compared with those in which the somewhat irascible
grower has his. We know how, within the limits of a county
even, the situation may be as wide as the Poles asunder —
perhaps on the top of a cliff overhanging the sea, or in some
sheltered valley where no breath of heaven can disturb them
rudely ; so that it is almost impossible, in giving directions
for the formation of a Rose-garden, to have in one's mind all
the various conditions under which the Rose may be grown.
There are, however, some canons which we may take for
granted to apply to the growing of the Rose in all circum-
stances. Readers we hope will not be frightened by the
Cultivation. 9
expression a Rose-garden, for nothing has been said about
size — it may contain fifty, or a hundred, or hundreds of
Roses; but the expression implies this, that the Rose
ought to have, and if successfully treated must have, a
place by itself, for unless it has, it can never be properly
cultivated.
There is one place, and one only, in which the Rose will
not grow satisfactorily, if at all, and that is in the vicinity
of a smoky town. Ah ! what miserable failures one has seen
when this has been attempted ; and it shows, indeed, how
universal is the love of the Rose that such attempts should
even be made. The blacks settle down on the foliage, com-
pletely choke the pores of the leaves, and miserable pining
away and death are the results. If, indeed, the manufac-
tures are not of a very deleterious character, and the garden
is situated out of the way of the prevailing winds, some
amount of success may be obtained ; but the Rose, although
about as gross a feeder as we have in our gardens, is an
intense lover of pure air, and a heavily smoke-laden atmos-
phere is death to it. With this exception, however, we
believe the Rose will grow anywhere — of course, in some
districts better than others. Some persons might imagine
that Cornwall, with its mild winters, would be just the place
for it ; but one of our very best horticulturists says he does
not think it would be possible to grow an exhibition Rose in
that very favoured locality — the plants all run to leaf, and the
blossoms are small and inferior. On the other hand, one
would say that a cliff, overhanging the sea, and exposed to
the force of our terrific south-west winds, would be ruinous
to the Rose ; yet there are some who not only grow them
there, but take first prizes at the National Rose Society's
and other shows with flowers gathered from a garden so
situated. Generally speaking such positions are not those
of choice, but of sheer necessity ; it is a case of there or
nowhere.
io Roses for Amateurs.
Position.
The first necessity for a Rose-garden is that it be in an
open position — that is, not surrounded by trees, or shut in in
any way. There are two reasons for this : Where trees sur-
round it, their roots make their way into the Rose-garden,
and impoverish the soil ; another is that, where a garden is
thus enclosed, mildew is apt to be very destructive. Let the
portion of the garden, then, that is devoted to the Rose be
an open one.
There must be a free circulation of air, and plenty of
sunshine ; but, at the same time, let it not be assumed that
by this is meant an unsheltered position, where the winds can
have their way in twisting and turning about the stems, and
whisking off the flowers. No; the Rose-garden must be
sheltered, though not shaded. Nothing is better than a
hedge, provided it be at some little distance from the Roses.
This hedge may be of any close-growing plant or shrub which
can be kept in bounds. It ought not to be allowed to get
much above the level of the Roses themselves. A Sweetbriar
hedge, about 2ft. through, and about 2^ft. high, would
answer excellently ; while there are also many Roses that
might well be utilised to form hedges, and that would be
entirely in keeping with the general plan. Perhaps, when
the wind has more play, it may be necessary to have a
higher hedge. Where it is not possible to have this, a
wooden fence forms a very good shelter ; but it is better
that the slabs composing it should not be nailed close
together, so as to sift the wind, which is all that is wanted.
A .fence thus made does not offer such resistance to the
wind, and so has a better chance of keeping its position. It
seems scarcely necessary to say that a garden in which there
are walls that Time has mellowed is an ideal one in which
to grow Roses, providing the other conditions are suitable.
In fact, it would not be too much to say that a perfect
Paradise of Roses might with a little outlay be produced.
Cultivation. n
Soil.
Next to situation, soil is the most important consideration
for the Rose-grower. Indeed, some say soil is the first re-
quisite; but in this we do not agree, for the simple reason
that you can make soil, but you cannot make a climate. You
must have a " splendid soil to produce such Roses," is a
remark often made by one Rose-cultivator to another. " No ;
I have a wretched, gravelly place," has been the rejoinder,
' ' or nothing but sand ; but then I have a fine climate, and
my garden is well sheltered." The man who starts with a
soil suited to the Rose is, of course, in a better position to
grow good Roses than the man who has to make it up ; but,
still, it can be made. The soil which the Rose delights in is
a rich, unctuous loam — a loam which, when it is pressed
between the thumb and finger, does not crumble, but kneads
like a piece of putty ; it must not be clay, although approach-
ing it closely. This kind of loam is to be found in many
counties of England, notably in Hertfordshire and Hereford-
shire; but there are many places in both the Southern and
Northern counties where it is also to be found. In some
places it is many feet in depth, and, where this is to be
found, Roses must grow. This being the normal soil for a
Rose, it follows that, where that soil does not exist, the
object of the Rosarian must be to get it as near to it as
possible. If the soil is light, of course the addition of as
heavy a loam as can be had will be desirable. Where the soil
is heavy, a different method has to be adopted, and either
light, vegetable mould, or some other preparation, used. In
order to show what can be done by a thoroughly enthusiastic
Rosarian, we would here state what was accomplished by the
late Mr. Geo. Baker, of Reigate, one of the very best
Rosarians we have had. He says : "In preparing the beds,
we measured a space of 4ft. for the first trench, all subse-
quent trenches being of the same width ; this affords plenty
of space for getting sods, manure, £c., in evenly. The
12 Roses for Amateurs.
top spit, which consists of good old fibrous turf, was then
wheeled to the farther end of the bed, and kept separate
on one side ; also the next spit below, so as to be at hand for
filling up the trench. The bottom spit was taken away as
useless, leaving a trench 2ft. 6in. deep. This was filled in
in the following manner : At the bottom was placed a layer
of yellow clay, some inches deep, so as to retain moisture
(the subsoil was gravel), on this a light covering of small
chalk, and then about half the sods which constituted the
first spit of the next trench, placed turf downwards, and
loosely broken up ; a thick layer 6f rotten cow manure was
then put on, to which was added a coating of chalk, coarsely
triturated. The remainder of the succeeding trench was now
used, broken up smaller, then the first sods, covered with
cow manure and fine chalk as before, and finally filled up
with the second spit of the following trench, the bottom spit
of every trench being dispensed with, to allow room for
clay, chalk, sods, manure, as I have described." This
is, of course, an expensive process, but it is the best \vay
where means are available. This will give a good idea of
what ought to be done ; but in smaller gardens and with
corresponding means, a much less expensive method may be
adopted.
Soil, though an undoubtedly powerful factor in the culti-
vation of Roses, is not the only one. Without good cultiva-
tion, thorough digging, the incorporation of the right kind
of manure at the right season, and the constant watchfulness
in respect of the general welfare of the trees, even the
best of soils will not avail the Rosarian. We have grown
in very light soils, by dint of hard work and constant atten-
tion, blossoms that would not disgrace the finest stands at
any show. It is quite a mistake to think because a soil is
gravelly, chalky, or even sandy (the last a most difficult one
admittedly) that therefore it is not worth while making the
attempt. The question to ask oneself is, Can the soil be
Cultivation. 13
improved? If it can, then, in nine cases out of ten, other
things being equal, quarters may be rendered suitable for the
reception of Roses. Personally, we would much rather start
with a light, well-drained soil than a heavy, clayey, water-
logged one. There is a popular impression very widely dis-
seminated that clay soils are par excellence the soils for
Roses. We would, however, point out that there are clays
and clays. Those to select are the greasy yellow ones that
are characteristic of certain districts, to which we have
already referred. Still, taken all round, we prefer the
lighter made-up soils, as they are workable when the clayey
ones can scarcely be looked at.
The Rose-garden in the Making.
As to the form which a Rose-garden, large or small,
should take, that must be left to individual taste. There are
many who think that the Rose needs no setting off, and that
a healthy collection of well-grown plants is a sight in itself.
One thing, however, is absolutely necessary — the beds of
which it is composed should be accessible without much
standing on them, and therefore those about 4ft. wide are
the best. This will admit of three rows of Dwarf bushes,
and all the plants can be reached without standing on the
beds themselves. " How dreadfully formal! " some persons
will say. True, it may be so; but when we are desiring
the welfare of the Rose itself, something must be sacrificed.
If the beds, too, are small, provision can be made for the
various families. There may be a bed or beds of Teas,
another of Moss Roses, another of summer-flowering Gallicas
or Hybrid Chinas, another for some specially favourite
variety, such as A. K. Williams or La France. If
persons are anxious for variety in the form of their
beds, it is in their power to make a geometric garden of
their Rosary ; but most of the best Rose-gardens one sees
are made in the manner described, and some of the very
Roses for Amateurs.
worst have been those which the owner has thought " pretty,"
but which are sadly deficient in taste, and where the require-
La France (H.T.), silvery rose, with lilac shading, globular, with
pointed centre; free and very sweet.
ments of the Rose had been sacrificed to what was considered
the good appearance of the garden itself.
In many modern gardens it is the custom to use Pillar
Roses festooned in various ways over chains or what not ;
Propagation. 15
and though without doubt they constitute a pleasing feature
to the many, to the few anything of the nature of a chain is
considered more or less of a disfigurement. With many
amateurs living in the country there is often a need to divide
the flower-garden proper from that devoted to the cultivation
of vegetables. No more effective way can be devised than
by using a pergola constructed of larch posts and covering
them with suitable Roses. Or, again, a hedge of Rosa
rugosa or of Lord Penzance Hybrid Sweetbriars may be
employed as a dividing-line.
Propagation.
Various Methods.
Ordinarily there are two methods of propagation that will
appeal to the average Rose-cultivator — Budding and Cut-
tings ; but to the man or woman who desires to experiment
still further there are several other very interesting methods
by which Roses or certain of them may be increased — by
Seeds, Grafting, Division, Layering, and Suckers. These
constitute the principal methods in vogue, and we propose
to deal briefly with each in turn, though Roses are so wonder-
fully cheap nowadays, and the trouble, not to say the risk,
of propagating one's own stock so great, that perhaps many
would do a great deal better to obtain their stock from a
nurseryman, and get them established in their gardens. In
connection with the propagation of one's own stock it must
not be forgotten that there is a great waste of time involved
in a Rosarian starting his garden depending on his own pro-
pagation. He must, the first autumn, get his cuttings,
whether of Manetti or Briar, and plant them ; then, in the
following year, he buds them ; in the third year he gets his
maiden blossom ; and it is not really until the fourth year
that he obtains a well-headed plant. All this has been
already done for him by the nurseryman, and he has only
to put in his plants, without all the preliminary preparation.
16 Roses for Amateurs.
He thus gains two, if not three, years — a matter of con-
siderable importance. Although budding, as we shall see,
is not a difficult process, yet failures must take place, and, in
dry seasons especially, they are likely to be numerous. All
these vexations the purchaser is saved.
Seeds.
Interesting though the process of raising Roses from seed
may prove, it is not one that is likely to appeal to any but
specialists anxious to see what may be done towards producing
something worthy of being perpetuated. Still, the prospect
of obtaining anything likely to prove worth the trouble is far
from being a good one, and cannot, therefore, be recom-
mended. Seeds may be obtained from the " heps " or
"hips"; these, when ripe, are buried in damp sand until
the following spring, by which time little but the seed will
remain, and it can then be rubbed out and sown. Birds, rats,
and mice are all extremely partial to the seeds, and care must
therefore be taken that they are prevented from taking them.
For the seed-beds, warm, sheltered quarters are desirable,
drills i ft. or so asunder should be drawn and the seeds
sown thinly. Or, again, they may be sown in shallow boxes
of prepared soil stood in a cold frame. The former, how-
ever, is the better plan. Still, however sown, there must
not be any impatience shown, as Rose-seeds are notoriously
variable in respect to the time that they take to germinate.
Undue haste in turning up the soil that has been set apart
for the seeds may result in their destruction. We have often
had the seeds two years and more in the soil before they
showed any signs of life. Any large enough to transplant in
the autumn should be lifted and planted 6in. to ift. apart
as soon as possible in November, protecting them with light
litter during severe weather. The first flowers from such
seedlings are only of use as colour-indicators : succeeding
years will show the prizes as well as the blanks.
Propagation. 17
In this connection it may be mentioned that in hybridis-
ing the stamens of the flower intended to produce seed
should be cut away before they mature and pollen applied
to the stigmas from another flower selected to form the cross.
The flower so operated upon should, moreover, be protected
with gauze to prevent the ingress thereto of insects which
might possibly bring pollen from undesirable blossoms. To
take seed from any "heps" that chanced to ripen would
be a most haphazard method that no practical Rosarian
would risk. The whole subject of hybridising, however, is
without the scope of this little work, and the subject is
merely hinted at in case there are some few amateurs who
would like to try their 'prentice hand at a most interesting
and instructive process.
Budding.
Assuming that the amateur Rose-grower is determined,
in the pride of his heart, to say to his friends who visit his
garden: "I budded them all myself." How is he to
proceed? He must first procure the necessary stocks;
these will vary according to the dictates of his fancy.
We will first of all deal with Dwarfs, as these are more
popular than Standards. These stocks may be either
Manetti or Briar, and they have to be planted ; this should
be done in rows 2ft. to 3ft. apart, according to the vigour
of the sorts to be budded — and the distance between each
plant should be about Qin. — in ground that has been well
trenched ; manure may also be added, although it is not
absolutely necessary. Their quarters should be in some
good part of the kitchen garden, where the stocks will
get plenty of light and air. We have often seen
them in a piece of a field near to the house; but
wherever the ground is, it should be taken care of, and
not allowed to become choked with weeds, for the future
well-being of the Rosary depends not a little on the early
c
i8 Roses for Amateurs.
management. Just as the child is father of the man, so
assuredly the proper care of the stock and bud in their early
days is the surest guarantee for a good and healthy plant
afterwards.
The process of budding is very simple, although to
describe it is not equally so; and now that Dwarf Roses are
the rule, and Standards the exception, there is some difference
in the method of doing it. Formerly, the bud was inserted
in one of the young shoots that the Wild Briar throws out, as
near to the stem as possible ; the object now is to put the bud
into the main stem of either Manetti, Briar Cutting, or Briar
Seedling, as close to the ground as possible just over the root-
stock. Indeed, it is a good plan to plant the Manettis
shallow and to earth them up like rows of potatoes. On
removing the soil when budding-time arrives and the earth
is drawn away, the bark will be moist and run much better
than if exposed to the drying influence of the atmosphere.
The budding consists in simply making two cuts in
the bark of the stem, one longitudinal, the other
transverse, so as to form a T. This cut must
not go deeper than the bark, and, when made, the
bark should be gently raised by the flat end of the
budding-knife. Now as to the taking of the buds : select a
good shoot of the Rose from which to propagate. It should
be a good one, with a nice blossom at the end. Cut off all
its leaves, leaving a short piece of the leaf-stalk sheltering
the bud. The buds should be plump, and should not have
started into growth, or they will be comparatively useless.
The Rev. E. N. Pochin, in the " Rosarians' Year-Book"
for 1880, under the quaint title of "A Buddhist's Idea,"
very strongly insisted upon this, and urged amateurs not to
take, promiscuously, any shoots, but to make a selection • he
also ridiculed the notion of people saying this was too much
trouble, adding that no trouble was equal to the trouble of
disappointment.
Propagation. 19
Having, then, selected a shoot, proceed to take out the
bud ; this is done by cutting a thin slice of the wood, about
an inch in length, partly above and partly beneath the
bud, leaving the bud and a very thin strip of wood, about
the thickness of writing paper. Some persons advocate
leaving this thin strip of wood with the bud; but the more
general practice is gently to remove it by giving a slight
jerk, while holding it at the lower end, with the knife-blade
and thumb-nail. If successfully performed the appearance
on the inner side of the bark will be plump ; but if a hollow
appears and the root of the bud has been torn out it will
1 e useless, and another attempt should be made. Many
budders put the piece of bark, with the bud, between the
lips to keep it moist without actually wetting it before
inserting it in the stock. The bud should be inserted in the
stock by gently pushing it in at the transverse cut, down to
the end of the longitudinal one ; then, with a very sharp
knife (which, indeed, is a requisite in the whole of the
operation), any of the thin bark on which the bud is should
be removed, so as to allow it to lie quite flat in the slit made
for it. The bud should then be firmly bound with soft
cotton, such as, we believe, tallow-chandlers use for wicks ;
this should be put two or three times round above and
below the bud, but not covering it, as it should be exposed
to rain. Some growers use worsted, and some raffia ; but
nothing is equal to the soft cotton here recommended.
The best time for budding depends a good deal on the
character of the season, but from the end of June to the
beginning of August is the most favourable time. It will be
easily seen whether the bark rises at all, or clings to the
stem, and unless it comes up easily and clean it is not fit
for working. Another test is to see if the " prickles " come
away readily from the bark. The most favourable weather
is when it is showery, as this tends to keep both bud and stem
moist, and prevents them from drying up. Budding late
C 2
20 Roses for Amateurs.
has its advantages, as the buds lie dormant all the winter,
and make better plants than when they start into growth as
soon as inserted.
Just a few words as to the method employed in the bud-
ding of Standards, despite the fact that they are more or less
unpopular at the present time. With these the buds are
inserted as close to the stock as possible in the lateral
branches of the "head." Formerly it was almost the in-
variable custom to cut back prior to the operation such stock
shoots as were to be budded ; now the better practice is
to leave them in their entirety, as it has been found
that more vigour is thus imparted. When the burl begins
to swell the "tie" should be loosened, so as to give it
room.
As soon as it is seen that the buds have " taken "
— that is, a union has been effected between bud and stock,
it is the practice of some cultivators to cut back the top
to induce the newly-inserted bud to start into growth. It
is, however, better to leave the heading-back until about
the third week in the following March. The bud remaining
plump but dormant until the following spring after inser-
tion, will, when the stock is cut back to 2in. above the bud,
make a stronger and better growth than if the heading-
back were done early, as first suggested. As a rule, the
binding material needs loosening and rebinding about three
weeks after the operation of budding ; this allows for the
natural swelling of the stock as growth proceeds. All
suckers or underground shoots from the stock must be care-
fully removed.
Bud-Grafting.
There is still another system of propagating Roses that is
in vogue on the Continent and elsewhere, of which we have
had absolutely no experience. However, after reading the
very lucid description of the method given by " F. M." in
Propagation.
the Gardeners' Chronicle, we think so well of it that we
intend giving it a trial. According to the correspondent
named, it Is far more successful than budding, more quickly
performed, the bud running no risk of injury by pushing it
into place; while should failure result no disfiguring scars
are left, and every stem can be grafted, whether the bark
"runs" or not. The following is the actual method, as
detailed by the writer in the columns of the journal referred
to:—
' ' The operation consists in making a slanting incision in
the stem or branch, and then with a second cut removing the
rind and a very little of the wood. In this cut the bud is
placed, after cutting to fit it exactly. That done, another
cut can be made on the opposite side of the stem, and a
second bud inserted at the same height. Both buds are now
bound in with bast or worsted, beginning at the bottom, the
short end laid on the stem or shoot, and the longer end used
to encircle the buds, binding fairly tightly immediately below
and above the bud. The buds being now bound in, the short
end and the longer remaining end of the bast can be tied in
a knot."
Cuttings.
By far the simplest method of propagating Roses is that
of cuttings, by which Roses are obtained on their own roots,
and for which a great advantage is claimed by some, though
others do not share that opinion, contending that if Roses
are budded low, whether on the Manetti or Seedling Briar,
they are soon on their own roots, as the Rose emits roots as
well as the foster-mother.
There are two seasons when Rose-cuttings may be made —
spring and autumn. We do not advocate the former, as it
implies the necessity of heated houses, which many amateurs
do not possess, and Roses struck under cool treatment stand
better than those which have been cultivated in heat. The
22 Roses for Amateurs.
following plan has been successfully adopted by many of
our best growers : — Having determined on the quantity of
cuttings, procure a common garden-frame sufficient to hold
them ; place this on hard ground, and then fill in about 6in.
of good compost — half loam and the other half leaf-mould,
with the addition of some coarse road grit or sand. This
should be made very firm — well beaten down with a spade —
watered, and left to settle. The cuttings should then be
prepared. It is advisable to select well-ripened shoots — as
soft shoots will, in nine cases out of ten, die — those having a
flower-bud ready to open. There has been some dif-
ference of opinion as to whether these shoots should be
simply cut off at the joint, or with what is called a heel —
that is, a piece of the old wood of the shoot from where the
cutting is taken ; but the latter are undoubtedly to be pre-
ferred as giving much better results. The cuttings should
be provided with four good eyes or buds, and as these
are at varying distances in different varieties the length
of the actual cutting will necessarily vary. They should
be dibbled in 6in. apart, leaving about iin. above the
surface of the soil ; but care must be taken to make
them very firm, leaving no place for water to accumu-
late round the base of the cutting, as this will cause it to
rot. When the whole of the cuttings have been inserted, the
light should be put on, and the frame kept close for a little
while. After that, air must be admitted, so as to prevent
damping; and in frosty weather the cuttings must be kept
well covered, not because the frost would kill them, but
because it lifts them out of the ground, and thus causes
them to perish. This should all be done about the last week
in September or beginning of October. By the following
May or June they will be rooted, and may either be left
where they are until planting-time, or potted off, placed in
a frame for a while until well rooted, and then planted out.
The former is the less troublesome plan, and where it has
Propagation. 23
been adopted we have known good Roses to have been cut
in less than twelve months from the time of the cutting being
planted. It must be borne in mind that when evergreen
and other varieties retaining their foliage until winter
is with us are struck under frames, bell-glasses, &c., the
retention of their leaves is necessary to a successful
result. Hybrid Perpetuals in the majority of cases will
strike equally as well with as without their leaves, and
without any artificial aids such as are required by the other
sections. There are some Roses, however — those of the hard-
wooded group, to which the distinctive Moss Roses belong —
that are most difficult if not well-nigh impossible to raise by
cuttings.
Still, even without any extraneous aids the amateur
desirous of working up a stock of Own-Root Roses can
readily do so — at any rate of the hardier and more vigorous
kinds — by inserting the cuttings in, say, a north border in
some sharp gritty sand in October. The cuttings should be
taken with a heel, as previously suggested, and may be from
loin, to i ft. long. Having removed the ends of the cuttings,
they should be inserted about 6in. deep and i8in. apart, care
being taken that the bottom of the cutting rests on the
soil. When all are in position tread them in firmly and
leave them. Frost will often lift them, and for that reason
they must be examined periodically, and if found to be
loosened the soil should be made quite firm around them.
In about a year the plants may be removed to their
permanent positions.
Frequently objections have been made to the propagation
of Roses by cuttings owing to the length of time it requires
to make a plant ; but if we take into account the previous pre-
paration of any stock before it is budded, it will be seen
that this objection does not hold good, and, indeed, that the
Rose from cuttings comes into good flower before the budded
one. There are some kinds which are more difficult to grow
24 Roses for Amateurs.
from cuttings than others; but these will be generally found
to be those of a weak constitution.
Grafting.
This is another method of propagation which is used by
growers for sale, but is a more difficult process, and is mostly
resorted to with new Roses where it is desirable rapidly to
increase the stock, and also for those hard-wooded varieties
that are with difficulty increased by the other means. January
is the best month, but as grafting requires heated houses it
is ill-suited to the small amateur. Whip-grafting is the
method chiefly in vogue, though Cleft- and Wedge-grafting
are also employed.
Division.
Though not often practised by amateurs, yet it is a well-
known fact that some Roses — e.g., R. spinosissima, Austrian
Briars, and the lovely little Fairy Roses — may be divided up,
taking care that each piece required to furnish a plant is
well provided with roots.
Layering.
Dwarf or Weeping Roses may be layered in June by
bending down a selected shoot, notching it and tonguing it.
Tonguing is per formed by cutting half through the shoot
an inch below a joint in a slanting direction and then con-
tinuing upwards through the middle to about an inch above
the node, so that an open slit is formed without completely
severing the shoot, and afterwards pegging it into the soil
in such a manner that the slit remains open, thus causing a
partial obstruction to the downward flow of the elaborated
sap as it descends and inducing the formation of roots. By
November roots will have formed, and the young plant may
be severed from the parent and assigned a position in bed
or border.
Planting. 25
Suckers.
Own-Root Roses belonging to certain groups will
occasionally show a disposition to send up suckers a distance
from the parent plant. These may be detached in autumn
and utilised for purposes of increase. Occasionally, too, we
have removed such suckers with roots attached — Rosa s-pino-
sissima in particular. Naturally when this is the case the
rooting operation after the severance is more quickly accom-
plished than when the roots have to be emitted afterwards.
It is usual to " nick " the sucker on the soil side when
planting.
Planting -After-Culture.
When to Plant.
Assuming that the piece of ground intended for the Rose-
garden has been arranged, prepared for planting in August
or September, and marked off into beds 4ft. wide, the
important question of planting has to be considered. The
period at wrhich this should be done is generally considered
the beginning of November, after the foliage has been shed ;
but this will somewhat depend on the character of the soil
and the climate, and some little on the actual variety. Where
the former is light, the situation is not much exposed, and the
variety a vigorous one, it makes very little difference.
Indeed, we have known Tea Roses and many Hybrid Per-
petuals that have done quite as well when planted in February
or March. Where, however, the soil is clayey, and retentive
of moisture, and the position cold, we think that spring
planting is undoubtedly preferable, at any rate for Teas,
Hybrid Teas, and the more delicately-constitutioned Roses
generally. Still, whatever plan is adopted, there should be
no hesitation as to when the Roses should be procured, if
they have to be bought. As early as possible in autumn, when
the foliage has fallen and the sap descended, is the time,
when they should always be obtained ; if it is possible to go
26 Roses for Amateurs.
to the nursery, so much the better, for they can then be
taken up, packed, and carried off, and as soon as possible,
if not planted, " heeled-in," for nothing can be more in-
jurious to the future well-being of the Rose than to have its
roots exposed for a time before planting. How one has
mourned to see plants lying out on the path, exposed to a
cold, biting easterly wind, which dries up the tender
spongioles of the roots at a time when they have not the
opportunity of repairing the damage; for, although there
may be, and probably is, root-action during the winter, yet
it is of a comparatively feeble character, and therefore
no strain should be imposed on the plants which they are
unable to bear. Should it be impossible to go to the nursery
to obtain the plants, as soon as they are received thence by
road or rail, they should be unpacked, and, if the ground is
not ready or the weather is unfavourable (frost or wet), be
11 heeled-in " — i.e., laid on their sides in a shallow trench,
and the soil thrown in to cover the roots.
Soil-Condition.
It must be clearly understood that nothing is gained by
planting Roses when the ground is sticky ; it is far better
to wait until it is in a workable condition, and, if the roots
are well covered, they will not be injured by being delayed.
It is not that harm is done by standing on the beds — and, if
they are of the width already mentioned, there will be no
necessity for doing this — but because the roots, being com-
paratively inactive, will rot, and so injure the plants.
Having at last obtained the requisite fine weather, the
operation should be commenced. Open the holes at the
distance you wish the plants to be — the more room they have
the better; in a bed 4ft. wide there will be room for three
rows of plants, and they may be placed at the same distance
in the rows. It is inadvisable to put, as some recommend,
manure and loam into the hole before planting : manure is
Planting. 27
apt to induce fungus, and so to injure the roots. The
application of manure should be, in all cases, as a surface-
Baroness Rothschild (H. P.), light pink, large and fine, but scentless;
a good late variety.
dressing, instead of being dug into the soil or used when
planting. Nor do we approve of dipping the delicate roots
in the ''puddle/' favoured by some.
Roses for Amateurs.
Planting. 29
Before dismissing the subject of planting it may be
useful briefly to refer to a few of the Roses that are especially
likely to give satisfaction when tried under conditions not
generally favourable to their cultivation. We refer more
particularly to those that may be grown near towns. Apart
from the actual vigour of the variety selected there are other
factors that may have to be considered. For instance, in
the case of Roses for town gardens it would be as well to
select varieties with more or less glossy foliage, as the
impurities one finds in some towns if they should settle thereon
are more readily dislodged by artificial or natural waterings.
They should also be budded, as such stocks provide far more
vigorous plants than those obtained from cuttings. By town
gardens, moreover, it would be well to state that we refer
to those not likely to be troubled with a persistent " smoke."
Especially would we recommend for a garden near a town,
but away from a smoke-laden atmosphere, such well-known
and time-honoured varieties as Captain Christy (H.T.),
Mme. Abel Chatenay (H.T.), Camille Bernardin (H.P.),
Mme. Isaac Periere (B.), Clio (H.P.), Cheshunt Hybrid
(H.T.), Mrs. John Laing (H.P.), and La Tosca (H.T.).
Then the sweetly pretty China Roses (like Laurette Messimy),
Rugosa, Sempervirens, Ayrshire, and Damask sections may
all be laid under contribution. Lastly, there is the beautiful
fragrant Gloire de Dijon, which has been found to succeed
better in towns than the majority of varieties.
Preparation of the Plant.
Before actually putting the tree into position, examine care-
fully the roots, cutting off any damaged portions and shorten-
ing back any that are unduly long or that have tap-root-like
appearance, using a knife and not secateurs. Moreover, if
able to differentiate suckers from the root proper cut them
out, thus saving trouble in the future and not imposing a
drain upon the vigour of the plant without any compensat-
30 Roses for Amateurs.
ing advantage. Still, if trees are procured from a nursery of
repute they are almost certain to have been carefully over-
looked.
Actual Planting.
Now for the planting, which is better done by two
than one. Having the plant ready, and being well gloved
to prevent its too pressing attentions, place it in the hole, at
a sufficient depth to cover, when filled in, the point of junction
where it has been budded (approximately lin. below
the surface) ; for the object is with Roses, either on
the Manetti, Briar Seedling, or Briar Cutting, to induce
them to throw out roots, so as to make them, comparatively
speaking, independent of the stock, or, at any rate, to give
them a double chance of health. Mr. Geo. Prince says No
with regard to the Briar Seedling stock, but most growers
follow the plan of covering in the junction. The roots should
be spread out carefully all round in a horizontal direction,
and great care should be taken to dispose them that they
do not cross, as in the case of fruit-trees. Some finely-sifted
soil should be worked carefully between the roots with the
fingers, soil to a depth of a couple of inches or so added, and
the whole made firm by careful treading. The remainder of
the soil should then be thrown in, and again trodden down.
Firm planting is most desirable; it leaves no opportunity
for water to lodge about the roots, and so gives the trees a
better chance. Where the soil is naturally light, it is a very
good plan to put on a shovelful of fibrous loam, chopped up.
It is well, when the planting is done, to affix short stakes to
each plant, so as to prevent their being shaken about by the
wind. As some cultivators of the Rose in a small way are
very partial to growing them on their lawns, we would
strongly deprecate the absurd method of bringing the grass
right up to the base of the bushes. To do so is to ask for
failure and also to deserve it. When grown as single plants
Planting. 31
there should be allowed a fair area of soil so that the fibrous
roots that are present in healthy Roses may derive all the
benefit possible from rains and artificial waterings. Once
the trees are in position, labels should be affixed to them.
The Acme labels identified with Mr. Pinches are excellent
for the purpose and have a first-class reputation.
So far we have assumed that the Roses to be employed
in the beds are Dwarfs. Not a few, however, still pin their
faith to the Standards or Half-Standards, and also submit
with some truth that they help to break the somewhat flat
appearance a bed composed entirely of Dwarfs presents. Be
that as it may, they should, if used, be planted at least i\i t.
apart and 6in. deep. Stakes should also be inserted to
prevent the trees from being blown about by rough winds,
and around the stem should be secured a strip of sacking or
similar material, otherwise the bark would be considerably
injured. Standard Teas are best protected when planted
in the autumn by tying bracken in the " head " in such a
way that the more vital part of the plant is covered. It cannot
be too forcibly impressed upon the cultivator that first-class
results can never be hoped for in borders containing large and
rampant-growing shrubs. Everyone, of course, who admires
Roses cannot devote entire beds to their cultivation, desirable
though it is. The next best thing is to provide the plants with
positions in mixed beds and borders where their branches get
plenty of space, sun, and fresh air, and are not over-
shadowed by tall trees or shrubs.
There are other sections whose planting has not been
provided for — Climbers (so-called) and Own-Root Roses
(those produced from cuttings). The former need plenty of
space (4ft.) between the individual plants, and as they
cause an extra drain upon the soil the latter quickly becomes
exhausted and requires renewing. Own-Root Roses may be
planted ift. Sin. apart and 6in. deep. Of late, too, there
has come into existence an interesting section in the Miniature
32 Roses for Amateurs.
Standards. These may be most usefully employed in beds
and borders, where they would constitute an effective feature.
After-Treatment.
When the bed has been completed some rotted manure may
be placed round each plant ; this will be sufficient to keep the
roots moist, and at the same time enriches the soil. As the days
shorten, and frost follows, some kind of protection is desir-
able. Long litter from the stable or pigsty does not blow
about so much as plain straw does ; and, moreover, there is a
certain amount of short dung which afterwards may be
gently forked in. As an additional security against frost, it
is well to earth up the plants, a portion of the soil of the
beds being drawn up to the neck or collar of the plant.
This had better be done before the topdressing is put on ; for
if, in doing it, any of the roots have been exposed, the top-
dressing will cover them. Should the garden be open, it will
be well to place some thatched hurdles at the side of the
prevailing wind, so as to give the plants shelter.
Buying the Stock.
It is scarcely necessary to add that it pays when buying
Roses to go to a firm with an established reputation for stock.
There are some which may be called Rose specialists, and
there are other firms which, though they do not fall within the
same category, have, nevertheless, strongly identified them-
selves with the flower. We cannot, of course, enumerate
even a tithe in either section, but merely a few of those of
whom we have personal knowledge. In the former there are
the Cants, of Colchester, Geo. Prince, of Oxford, Paul
and Sons, of Waltham Cross, Dickson and Sons, of New-
townards, Prior and Sons, Ipswich, and James Walters, of
Exeter ; and to the latter belong such well-known firms as
Kelway, of Langport, Barr and Sons, Long Ditton, Bath,
of Wisbech, Sydenham, of Birmingham, Veitch and Sons,
Planting 33
Chelsea, Turner, of Slough, Jackman and Sons, Woking, &c.
Any or all of these and many more besides may be relied
upon for sending out excellent stock.
Pruning.
This important matter has next to be considered. It is
not one of those subjects for which hard-and-fast rules can
be laid down. The amount of pruning will be largely
governed by the variety and not a little by the purpose
for which the Rose is grown. Roses, irrespective of variety,
that are simply grown for garden decoration will not require
severe pruning. Then, again, it is necessary to differentiate
between the spring and the summer pruning, the latter merely
consisting of the shortening of rampant shoots or the removal
of all useless wood, say, in September, thus enabling the
autumn sun and air to play their part in ripening up the
wood.
The actual time for pruning proper depends a good deal
on situation. In some places it is perilous to do it early, as
the shoots made are apt to be cut off by frost ; but, as a
general rule, it may be undertaken the first fortnight in
March, that being about as good a time as any. It is very
possible that before this, in some seasons, the upper portion
of the shoots may be green, and buds even making their
appearance; but this need create no anxiety. "Will they
not bleed very much when pruned, if left so late? " may be
asked. Very possibly ; but a great deal too much stress has
been laid on this bleeding. The experience of many very
successful Rose-growers is that it does little or no harm.
The first year that Roses are received from a nursery or
planted they cannot well be pruned too hard, and should be
cut down to two or three eyes. Afterwards it will become
a question as to whether they should be pruned lightly or
hard. Supposing, then, that the second year after planting
has come, how are the plants to be treated ? If they have
D
34 Roses for Amateurs.
grown well, they have thrown up three or four long, stout
shoots, and on these the grower will rely. All the short, old
wood of last year, and anything that appears sappy, should
be cut out. These long shoots should now be cut with
a sharp pruning-knife, never with a secateur. If the latter
be used we find that the wood is often so bruised in the
Rose-tree before Pruning.
process that it dies completely away. The shoot should be
cut just above an eye that points outward, so that when it
does start it may not interfere with other shoots, and the bush
will thus be more shapely. As experience is gained, the
grower will be able to distinguish between varieties that
require hard pruning— that is, leaving only about 3in. or /(.in.
of the shoots — and those of which pin. or loin, may be left.
As a rule, strong-growing Hybrid Perpetual varieties must
Planting.
35
be pruned lightly, otherwise they will all go to wood, and the
blossoms will be few and small ; while other varieties must
be cut hard.
Generally speaking Teas and Hybrid Teas do not like the
knife, although there are some individuals that will bear
harder pruning than others. An indication as to what are
vigorous growers will be found in any good catalogue.
Hybrid Perpetuals to take them as a section may be closely
pruned. More specific instructions with regard to Teas and
Hybrid Teas will be found under the chapter dealing there-
with ; while later on some of the other sections of Garden
Roses will be treated of and their
special requirements in regard to
pruning pointed out.
In order to make this matter
clearer, we give two illustrations
from sketches made by Mr. E.
Mawley, Hon. Secretary of the
National Rose Society. Our first
illustration represents the Rose-
tree before it is pruned, and the
lines the points at which the knife
is applied. The second shows the
same tree after the operation. These directions with regard to
pruning refer to that most popular and generally -grown class
of Roses, the Hybrid Perpetuals, for Teas require, in this
and in other matters, a somewhat different treatment. Where
it is designed to get large bushes and a profusion of flowers,
without being too regardful of their quality, less vigorous
action in the way of pruning may be adopted, the shoots
left longer, and so the plant gradually increased in
size. To those, however, who prefer, it may be, fewer
blossoms, but those of a good quality, even though not
required for exhibition, the course recommended will com-
mend itself.
D 2
Rose-tree after Pruning.
36 Roses for Amateurs
Disbudding.
And now comes a time when the difference between one
who merely grows for his garden and one who grows for
exhibition is very decidedly marked — namely, in the dis-
budding of the Roses. Moreover, we feel assured that the
former would soon find that he would get more enjoyment
from his plants if he followed the exhibitor's practice. Some
varieties of Roses have only one flower at the end of the
shoot ; others have three or four, crowded together, and the
question arises, " Are we to have one good, really good,
flower, or three or four indifferent ones? " People who see
grand blossoms of Roses at exhibitions, want to know why
they cannot get such flowers ; they have the varieties, they
spare no expense, and yet they cannot get such blossoms.
We are convinced that, in a great many cases, the unwilling-
ness to disbud is at the bottom of it ; but, as in pruning, one
has need to have courage, and to act upon it. It seems a pity
to pull off such a number of blossoms, and so it does to cut
away apparently flourishing shoots ; but it must be done, and
the best way is to remove the extra buds with a blunt quill
or a toothpick. If those who delight in their Roses were
only to try the disbudding they would find it well worth the
trouble. In the same way, staking the shoots, which is
resorted to by exhibitors, is considered too troublesome for
the ordinary grower; and, undoubtedly, if it can be done
without, the Rose-garden will look better.
Almost equally as important as the removal of super-
fluous flower-buds is that of getting rid of certain leaf-buds
by the process known as " rubbing out," on very much the
same principle as that obtaining in the cultivation of fruit-
trees. If by allowing a bud to remain a badly-shaped tree
is likely to result, the better plan is to rub it out. With very
vigorous-growing varieties it is not uncommon for Rose
specialists to rub out all misplaced buds — those that grow
inwards and are likely to fill up the tree or that are situated
Teas, Hybrid Teas, and Noisettes Outdoors. 37
in too close a proximity. This is done early in May, accord-
ing to locality and season. Inasmuch, however, as this is
entirely a question of the examination of the individual plant,
nothing hard and fast can be laid down. The shape of the
tree as reflected in the mind's eye must be the chief deter-
mining factor.
Mildew and Other Diseases.
As the Rose is not without a thorn (some are), so, even
in our securest moments, there lurks a danger ; for the hot,
bright, summer days are often succeeded by cold nights;
and, again, after a spell of bright, warm weather, we
get a cold and chilly time. Such weather conditions
are conducive to that great pest of the Rose, Mildew
(Sphcerotheca -pannosa) ; this will soon be seen by the
curled and disfigured appearance of the leaves; and, after a
time, the leaves fall off, and the Rose-garden looks very
melancholy. It is not, however, proposed here to deal
specifically with this or any of the other diseases to which
Roses are liable. A section will be devoted to their con-
sideration in another part of the work.
Teas, Hybrid Teas, and Noisettes Outdoors.
Teas and Noisettes.
The directions already given with regard to cultivation
have been chiefly in reference to the class of Roses known
as Hybrid Perpetuals ; but still more popular, if possible,
are the Hybrid Teas, Teas, and Noisettes (the two latter
of which are usually classed together and many varieties
of which seem to run into one another, the difference being
greater in habit than in flower) ; thus, that most popular
(where it can be grown) of all Roses, Marechal Niel, has
much affinity to the Tea Rose, although its habit is so
distinct. For all that they are alike in many points, the Teas
3§ Roses for Amateurs.
and Noisettes have quite a different origin. The Tea Rose
is generally supposed to be the progeny of the Blush Tea-
scented Rose (Rosa odorata), crossed with the Yellow China,
the latter having been introduced about 1824. The Noisette,
on the other hand, was raised from seed in America by
M. Philippe Noisette, and sent by him to his brother,
a nurseryman in Paris, about the year 1817; it was the
progeny of the Musk Rose (Rosa moschata), fertilised with
the common China. From the former it inherits its fragrance
and tendency to blossom in clusters, though this tendency has
been somewhat diminished as the individual flowers have
been increased in size and the infusion of Tea blood has been
greater. Thus, Marechal Niel, though occasionally giving
two or three buds on the shoots, as often produces only one ;
and the same may be said of that very fine yellow Rose
(where it can be grown), Cloth of Gold. No allusion
to the Noisette section would be complete without at least a
reference to that vigorous and time-honoured variety, William
Allen Richardson, which was brought out in 1878. It is one
of those few varieties that may be grown either in the open
or under glass, that will adorn a pillar, a pergola, or a
wall, and yet be equally in keeping grown as a standard in a
bed or in a border, while so far as colour is concerned, it
stands alone as regards depth of yellow.
There is no class of Roses more influenced by climate,
and in the North of England it is almost impossible to grow
them satisfactorily out of doors, the heavy rainfall being
much against them — more so than even frost, from which it
is possible to protect them. Two causes have tended to
make the cultivation of the Tea Rose easier than it used
to be. One has been the introduction of the Briar Seedling
as a stock for it, mainly owing to the exertions of Mr.
George Prince, of Oxford, as we have already mentioned.
The French had long been in the habit of using the briar
for grafting, but to Mr. Prince must be given the credit of
Teas, Hybrid Teas, and Noisettes Outdoors.
39
employing it to any extent for budding. The briar had
always been considered the best stock for the Tea Rose, as
the Manetti was too vigorous, and began to move too early in
the spring — in the one case overpowering the graft, and in
the other exposing it to be cut off by early frosts; and, as
William Allen Richardson (N.), deep orange-yellow, very distinct ; a
favourite climbing Rose and most useful buttonhole flower.
the briars used were either standards or half standards, there
was the almost certain result of their being severely crippled
by the frosts of winter; whereas, when worked on the Briar
Seedlings, they can be easily protected, and even if the heads
of the plants are cut off, they throw up strong shoots from
40 Roses for Amateurs.
the ground. The second cause has been the introduction of
a hardier race of Teas, which are able to withstand the cold
weather to which they are subjected with us ; although it is
a great mistake to suppose that the winters are severer here
than in the neighbourhood of Paris, which has a greater
degree of cold than London.
Special Cultivation.
With regard to special cultivation, either on their own
roots or as dwarfs, it may be stated that the plan recom-
mended by Mr. Rivers years ago, and more fully developed by
Mr. George Paul in the " Rosarians' Year-Book " for 1880,
of growing them on raised beds, is the best. Of course, in
the more favoured parts of our island, and where the soil is
favourable, such methods are unnecessary ; but in other parts
the extra care and trouble involved in this method of culti-
vation will be amply repaid by the success gained. It is
best to choose for the purpose a southern aspect. When the
space is marked out, if the soil be very retentive, or the
subsoil bad for drainage, the earth must be removed to the
depth of i8in., one-half of this being filled in with brick
rubbish, and then a border made of either bricks or wood.
The bed should then be filled up with a good compost of
loam, leaf-mould, manure, and sand, added to the soil which
has been taken out; it will then be about ift. higher than
the path. If this is done in autumn, the earth will have
time to settle before planting time comes.
Planting and After-Cultivation.
It is always best to defer the planting of newly-formed
Tea Rose beds until the spring. When the plants are received
from the nursery, they should be heeled-in, and their heads
covered with a piece of matting, or fern, or any warm, pro-
tecting material ; this should only be done in severe weather,
so as not to encourage premature shoots, which would be of
Teas, Hybrid Teas, and Noisettes Outdoors. 41
no use, and would only weaken the plant. When April
arrives (not before) the bed may be planted, cutting back the
shoots to three or four eyes, and choosing a favourable day
for it — favourable not only as to weather overhead, but as to
the state of the soil, for it is of very little use doing it when
the soil is wet and sticky. A little delay is much better than
working and standing on the ground when it is in this con-
dition. They may be planted about 2ft. apart each way,
and care should be taken that they are inserted low enough
for the place of junction to be covered ; so that, in fact, after
a time, they become double-rooted, and thus have a better
chance. During the first year the plants will make vigorous
growth if they have been properly treated, and in the follow-
ing autumn may be top-dressed like the Hybrid Perpetuals,
and we find that they do not really require more protection.
It is quite immaterial if the larger growth should be cut
down by the frost, for the plants will throw up strong
shoots from below the surface of the ground ; and it is
wonderful how vigorous these shoots are, and how full of
blossom. During the months of August, September, and
often in October there will be a wealth of blossom on the
plants of the Tea race, whilst amongst the Hybrid Perpetuals
the blossoms will be few and far between.
Pruning.
With regard to pruning there has been a wide difference
of opinion, some contending that Teas ought to be cut hard,
others that they should be only tipped. It is a very good
plan to alternate the practice — i.e., one year cutting them
to within 4.in. or 5in. of *he ground, and the following
year only shortening the shoots. Should, however,. the winter
be hard, and the plants be severely hit by frost, it will
be necessary, as in the case of Hybrid Perpetuals, to cut
them down below where the pith has been affected and
discoloured.
Roses for Amateurs.
Mmc. Bcrard (T.), a combination of fawn=yellow and rose: a nice
climbing variety of Gloire de Dijon type, but equally good
as a Standard and for pillars and arches.
Teas, Hybrid Teas, and Noisettes Outdoors. 43
As WeJl Plants.
There is yet another way in which Tea Roses may be
grown. Where the amateur has a wall there is nothing
better for covering it than some Roses of this lovely class ;
and even where there is no wall, what can be more charming
for covering the dwelling-house? Many of them are nearly
evergreen, while the profusion of their blossom makes them
most desirable. Who has not admired that universal favourite,
Gloire de Dijon, so at home in all climates and in all situa-
tions ? There are others of the same race, such as Madame
Berard, Papillon, Bouquet d'Or, and Belle Lyonnaise ;
but we question if any of them will supplant the older flower.
Then there is the Noisette Reve d'Or, which may be
described as a climbing Madame Falcot, most profuse in
flowering, and almost evergreen. Marechal Niel should be
grown only in the warmer parts of our islands, and on a
south or a west wall, and not pruned until the first week
in April. Where these Roses are grown in any other posi-
tion it will be necessary, should the winter be severe, to give
them some protection by nailing mats or some other material
over them, the best being what is called scrim, or papering
canvas, which simply sifts the cold as it passes through it,
and does not " coddle " the trees so as to make them sus-
ceptible to the early spring frosts.
Hybrid Teas.
There is yet another class of Roses which has come into
much prominence during the last few years, and whose history
is a somewhat curious one : we refer to the class known as
Hybrid Teas. Since 1890 its progress has been marked,
though Rose-cultivators are still looking for a definition of
" What is a Hybrid Tea ? " It was known for many years that
the " blood," so to speak, of the Tea Rose had been infused
into many of our Hybrid Perpetuals ; notably was this the
case with such Roses as La France and Captain Christy, the
44
Roses for Amateurs.
delightful perfume of the former being very suggestive of
the Tea Rose; while that very useful Rose, Cheshunt Hybrid,
-v
Belle Lyonnaise (T.), a pale coloured seedling from Gloire de Dijon ;
a popular Climbing Rose.
very evidently partook of the same character ; but they still
retained their place in the Rose catalogue under Hybrid
Perpetuals. A few years ago, however, it was suddenly
announced that these Roses were to be put in a separate
Teas, Hybrid Teas, and Noisettes Outdoors. 45
class and were to be henceforth known as Hybrid Teas.
Immediately, on both sides of the Channel, additions to the
class were announced, and so much was it in favour with
the foreign growers that more of them were raised than
of either the Teas or the Hybrid Perpetuals. It was probably
felt that perfection had been attained in the other two classes,
and therefore their energies were to be concentrated on this
new class. There is no doubt that the majority of them,
doubtful though they may be as regards correct classification,
are very beautiful Roses, and many of them retain the Tea
habit of autumn blooming, although we do not think that
any of them have equalled La France.
Botanically, no doubt, it w^ould be difficult indeed to
defend the title of a very large number of the varieties now
classed as Hybrid Teas. Still, until there is a definite pro-
nouncement by the powers that be we shall have necessarily
to take things as they are rather than as they should be.
If we refer to the first enumeration of Hybrid Teas made
by the National Rose Society in 1884, we shall find but 3
trio of varieties included — Reine Marie Henriette, Cheshunt
Hybrid, and Longworth Rambler. To-day we find in any
catalogue of Rose specialists the Hybrid Teas an extremely
numerous section, and very few less in number than the Teas
proper. Judged from a garden standpoint, the newly-
created class is deserving of all praise ; for collectively it is
little behind the Hybrid Perpetual one in respect of freedom
of flowering, hardiness of constitution, or general excellence ;
while as regards continuity of flower it surpasses it.
As regards pruning there can necessarily be nothing
hard and fast, as individual Rose varieties differ materially
in constitution, apart altogether from class distinction. The
cultivator, therefore, \vhile going practically on the lines laid
down for pruning the Teas, will have to consider also the
actual variety " under the knife." To Messrs. Paul and
Son, to whom Rose-cultivators are indebted in most sections
4^ Roses for Amateurs.
for many of the finest varieties therein to be found, belongs
the credit, we think, of first allocating Roses formerly
regarded as Hybrid Perpetuals under Hybrid Teas. That
firm, together with Dickson and Sons, the late Mr. H.
Bennett, and the French firms of Pernet-Ducher and Nar-
bannand, have b^en the chief contributors to the section, and
their record, it must be confessed, is an admirable one.
Planting, as in the case of the Teas proper, is better
deferred until spring, afterwards giving the trees a good
mulch. For beds the Hybrid Teas will afford a wealth of
material. A little discretion., however, must be used as
regards the allocation of the different varieties, the tallest-
growing ones being placed in the centre and the dwarfer
ones towards the sides. Two feet at least should be allowed
between each plant.
Varieties.
As a section is devoted to the enumeration of varieties
for general purposes and exhibition, there is no need to
furnish a separate list here.
Roses Under Glass.
Extension of the System.
While the previous sections have dealt with Roses out of
doors, and have been mainly intended for amateurs who
are not able to afford to cultivate them under glass, yet
such structures are now so cheap that any amateurs desirous
of extending their Rose season may do so with very little
trouble and at a comparatively small outlay. Indeed, nowa-
days the cultivators of Roses under glass are a very numerous
body. Nor is the reason for this far to seek, seeing that
there are plenty of gardens in which it is impossible satis-
factorily to grow Roses outside, yet which, given a glass
structure, will produce them practically through the dullest
months of the vear.
Rosas Under Glass. 47
to Grow and Why.
While there are many Hybrid Perpetuals that will do
well when thus grown, to say nothing of individuals falling
in sections outside those ordinarily looked for by the
amateur to furnish suitable material, yet for such purpose
there are nothing like Teas, Hybrid Teas, and Noisettes :
they bloom so profusely, their flowers are so much more
lasting, and their colours so delicately beautiful. By common
consent they are considered the very best of all Roses for
under-glass cultivation ; and it is astonishing how much
satisfaction may be obtained from even a small house.
Orchids, even now, seem to absorb most of the energies and
means of those who have glass ; but it is doubtful whether
the space would not be better occupied with pot Roses, for
they have this advantage over Orchids — they can be made
to serve a double purpose; after they have blossomed they
can be turned out of doors, and the house occupied by
something else during the summer. We have had, in our
own experience, a good proof of what may be done. We
had a plant of Marechal Niel, which was put into a large
pot, and placed on the ground at the back of a small lean-
to, about 1 2ft. long, on the roof of which flourished a grape
vine. The plant grew, and it was trained on the back
wall ; in course of time the roots pushed through the hole
at the bottom of the pot, and the plant became rooted into
the soil on which it stood. In six years it covered the
whole of the back wall, and in one season no fewer than
250 to 300 blossoms were gathered from it.
The Planted-out System.
There are two ways in which Roses may be grown under
glass — either in pots or planted out. Should anyone be
contemplating the erection of a house for the purpose, we
would strongly advise that the Roses should be planted out;
it is much more satisfactory in every way. The watering is
4-8 Roses for Amateurs.
a greater certainty ; and this is an important point, as plants
in pots are too often water-logged or dust dry, and in either
case the Rose suffers. Then, as the plants grow more freely,
there is a greater succession of blossom, and, as a rule, the
individual flowers are much finer.
Choice of a^ House.
If success is to be achieved, there are a few things which
it is necessary to recollect, though it is very difficult in
keep before one's mind the various sorts of structures which
are used. An inexpensive yet thoroughly useful house may
be made about i8ft. long, i2ft. wide, and loft, high; and
the same plan may be enlarged or diminished according
to the wishes or means of the grower. This house ought
to contain a central bed with a walk round it, and borders
on each side — the central bed being about 5ft. wide, the
walks occupying 3ft., and the borders being each about 2ft.
wide. The roof should either be movable (the better, though
the more expensive, plan), or else, while the greater portion
of the glass may be glazed permanently, there should be
small sashes the full depth of the roof, made either to rise
on hinges or else made movable. The object of this is to
get thorough ventilation and the wood well ripened, so that
mildew may be, as far as possible, prevented, and the success
of the following year assured. There should also be a door
at each end. The pitch of the roof should be good, and
it should be brought down to about 2ft. at the sides. We
have said nothing so far about heating, because we do not
believe it to be necessary, although a single 4in. pipe would
give the plants an advantage in frosty weather. Where the
house is unheated, it will be well to cover the roof with
mats, as it is advisable to avoid, if possible, the extremes of
heat and cold. Houses suited to Rose cultivation are
stocked by numbers of firms making glass structures a
speciality.
Roses Under Glass. 49
Preparation of Beds.
In preparing the beds, care should be taken to secure
perfect drainage. The soil should be taken out to about
the depth of 2ft., and then about 9111. of broken bricks, pot-
sherds, &c., thrown in. On this should be placed the com-
post, which should consist of three parts loam (the top spit
of a meadow is best) and one part well-rotted cow-dung; to
this should be added one part of coarse sand or road grit.
Some cultivators recommend a richer compost than this ; but
this we believe to be the best, while the additional stimulus
can be obtained afterwards by using liquid manure. The
compost must be quite rough, well chopped up, but by no
means sifted. In planting, it will be well to have in the
centre bed a row of standards or half-standards in the
middle, and dwarfs in the other rows. Then, in the borders,
it is well to plant a few of the more vigorous Noisettes, and
allow them to be trained up the roof for a short distance.
Such varieties as Afarechal Niel, William A. Richardson,
Celine Forestier, and Bouquet d'Or will, in this position,
give abundance of flowers. In the front of the border
dwarfs may also be planted. Roses thus treated have to be
especially watched with regard to mildew, and therefore
thorough ventilation (not draught) is necessary. Mildew is
chiefly induced by the variations of temperature (and these
are likely to be greater in a glass house than in the open air) ;
therefore, on its first appearance, it should be dealt with
according to the remedies suggested in the section on
" Rose Friends and Foes."
Procuring the Plaints.
These may be ordered from the nurseries, and whatever
section is selected (though, as already stated, our predilection
is for the Teas and Hybrid Teas), they should combine, if
possible, a vigorous constitution with free-flowering qualities.
At the end of this section we shall enumerate some of the
E
50 Roses for Amateurs.
most suitable varieties for growing under glass, so that the
amateur may select according to the space at command and
the depth of his purse.
Marshal Niel (N.), golden-yellow; outdoors suited only to west
or south-west walls; indoors one of the finest of all under-
glass Roses.
Routine Work.
A few applications of liquid manure will benefit the trees,
and, except in frosty weather, syringing with clear water,
Roses Under Glass. 51
wetting the floors, &c., are very desirable. When the first
blossom is over, it is well to cut off the flower-stems, and
sometimes to cut back the plant a joint or two, so as to induce
a good second crop. As the summer advances it will be
neivssan to give all the air possible both night and day-
take off the top-lights, or open them if they are fixtures — for
the thorough ripening of the wood is absolutely necessary if
the plants are to succeed the following year. As the autumn
approaches the roof if a movable one must be replaced the
second week in October, but taking care that whenever the
weather admits thereof a free circulation of air is
allowed. Where the plants are being grown without heat,
pruning may take place about the middle of January ; but
where heat is provided, pruning may be conducted in October
of the previous year, after giving them a slight rest by dis-
continuing watering for a few weeks. No severe pruning is
desirable, merely the cutting-out of weakly and misplaced
shoots and slightly shortening the others.
Pot Cultivation.
It is best to procure Teas and Hybrid Teas on their own
roots, if possible, for pot cultivation, as the grower is
thereby saved all the trouble of underground shoots or
suckers. If these are not. to be had, let them be procured on
Briar Seedlings, but avoid either those budded on the
Manetti or grafted plants, which latter are a delusion and a
snare. But Own-root Teas or Briar Seedling budded plants
can now be had at most nurseries. It is best to procure them
in the autumn, and, as they are received from the nurseries
in 6o's, they should be at once potted up into 32 's —
i.e., pots about 6in. across. The compost used should be
about three parts of good turfy loam, well chopped up (not
sifted), one portion of well -decomposed cow manure (or
Mb. of Clay's Fertiliser, With's Rose Manure, or the well-
known Ichthemic Guano may be incorporated with each
E 2
52 Roses for Amateurs.
bushel of compost), and one portion of coarse sand or road-
grit. Other good fertilisers are sold by Bentley, of Hull,
and Valroff, of Horselydown, and these should be used as
the makers advise. A sprinkling of " Alphol " may also be
advantageously employed. Be careful that the pots are well
cleaned ; then fill them about one-third with broken pieces
of pots; let these also be clean (the little trouble of
washing them will not l>e thrown away). The pot Rose
should then be taken and turned out of the pot, the
outside of the ball rubbed off, and the ball itself gently
squeezed so as to loosen the roots. Be careful to put the
plant in the centre of the pot, put the earth in round the
ball equally, and then press it well in; firm potting is an
essential of success in many things, and in nothing more so
than in Roses. After potting give the plants a good soaking
of water (not a driblet), and then put them into a close frame
for a few days, when they should be removed to the green-
house, and then pruned on the lines already laid down, the
object being to get a compact bush. As a rule, Teas and
Hybrid Teas require less pruning than Hybrid Perpetuals.
If they are then placed in a house whence frost is excluded
(they require nothing more), they will flower in April, and
a little later on they may be taken out of doors, and plunged
up to the rim in coal ashes, in a sunny spot, where the wood
may be thoroughly well ripened. Should larger plants be
required, they may at this time be put into larger pots, i6's
being a very good size. The plants will remain out of doors
all summer, and then may, in autumn, be again brought into
the house, to be treated as before. They will, when growing,
be benefited by the application of occasional doses of liquid
manure (about once a week will be sufficient), for which there
is, perhaps, nothing better than guano, loz. to the gallon,
and a small portion of soot ; this gives colour to the foliage,
and sweetens the soil. Clay's Fertiliser may also be applied
with benefit, using it either as a top dressing (a teaspoonful
Roses Under Glass. 53
sprinkled on each 6in. pot) or as a solution (Joz. to igall.
of water). Canary Guano, again, may be used similarly.
Another good stimulant at such a time is With's Rose
Manure in combination with the Plant Food; while Robin-
son's Electroplasm (J teaspoonful to each pot) should
give excellent results.
Forcing.
Though amateurs generally may not care for the trouble
and extra expense that this mode of cultivation entails, there
is no good reason why, if they choose, it should not be
attempted. If winter blooms are required, the Teas and
Hybrid Teas will be the best varieties to select, the H.P.'s
being far more trouble to flower before spring. The pre-
paratory work of potting should be performed in the autumn,
so as to give the plants time to get well established before
forcing is attempted. To this end a gentle overhead syring-
ing on bright days will conduce. On no account over water ;
but, on the other hand, do not let the soil get bone-dry. A
good temperature to commence work is 5odeg. Fahr. by day,
falling to 45deg. at night. As the plants progress and
growth is made, the temperature may be gradually increased
to 65deg. ; but, whenever possible, ventilation should be
allowed. Assistance should be given as advised by the
use of stimulants during active growth. We have not .said
anything about pruning, as the lines already suggested will
suffice. Still, we may emphasise the fact that throughout
their growing period it is beneficial to remove weak and use-
less wood. All forced plants may be put first in
cold frames and afterwards outside, with a view to the
ripening of the wood, on the proper maturation of which next
season's crop of flowers will depend. Those who go in for
extensive forcing have three batches of plants. These 'are
pruned at varying times from the first or second week in
November until Februarv, according to the time blossoms are
54 Roses for Amateurs
required. Although \ve are advocates for comparatively light
pruning, combined with a due regulation ot growth at all
times, yet there are some of the most experienced who prune
somewhat severely. The two systems should be tried, and
whichever answers better should be followed.
The following varieties in their different sections are
especially adapted for pot cultivation : —
Teas.
AMAZONE. — Golden-yellow, with elongated buds ; varies somewhat
but when well grown is a decided acquisition.
ANNA OLIVIER. — Rosy-flesh; base of petals, dark; a large, beauti-
fully-formed flower.
BRIDESMAID. — Bright pink, closely resembling CATHERINE MERMKT,
but deeper in colour.
CATHERINE MERMET. — A light, flesh-coloured Rose, of exquisite
shape ; a most lovely flower.
COMTESSE DE NADAiLLAC. — One of the most beautiful of Teas. It is
almost impossible to describe its exquisite colouring. It is a
flesh-coloured Rose, but with the most lovely tints of peach,
coppery-yellow, and apricot. It is, perhaps, not so free in
growth as some, but we have not found it delicate on a wall,
and we think, in pots, it is likely to be vigorous.
DEVONIENSIS. — An exquisite Rose, of English origin, white, with
yellow tint; large, full, and good.
ETUILE DE LYON. — Bright sulphur-yellow; splendid in form and
colour ; vigorous in growth.
FRANCISCA KRUGER. — Copper, shaded with yellow and rose ; good
shape.
HON. EDITH C.IFFORD. — White, tinted with rose in the way of
DEVONIENSIS, but distinct from it.
INNOCENTE PIROJ.A. — Very nearly white ; a beautiful flower ; free,
and of good habit.
JEAN DUCHER. — Large and full ; a very variable Rose in its colour-
ing— yellow, sometimes shaded with salmon and rosy-peach.
MME. CHEDANE GUINOISSEAU. — Very bright yellow, beautiful colour
and form; small, and well adapted for a buttonhole flower.
MME. CUSIN. — Rosy-purple, with yellow base to each petal ; quite
distinct, and a very desirable Rose.
MME. DE WATTEVILLE. — Very distinct pale lemon, with distinct
margin of pink ; large, full, and free.
MME. TALCOT. — Apricot-yellow, with nice pointed buds ; excellent
for buttonholes.
MME. HOSTE. — Lemon-yellow ; large and full, of fine form ; and
free.
MME. LAMBARD. — A very beautiful Rose, varying much in colour,
from salmon to bright rose; very vigorous.
Roses Under Glass. 55
MAMAN COCHET. — Rose, with carmine and bright rcse shading,
large, and of fine form; lasts well.
MARIE VAN HOUTTE. — Yellowish-white ; edge of petals tinted with
rose ; very vigorous and free ; a delightful Rose.
MRS. B. R. CANT. — Rich, deep rose; one of the best, and an excel-
lent autumn Rose.
MRS. E. MAWLEY. — Pink, with salmon suffusions, shell-like petals,
high-pointed centre ; very fragrant, and quite in the front rank
of Teas.
Marie Van Houttc (T.), canary-yellow, deeper in centre, petals edged
rose; a vigorous variety ; requires light pruning.
XIPHETOS. — Pure white; in great request for bouquets; very large,
full flower.
PERLE DES JARDINS. — Canary-yellow; large, globular, but sometimes
opening badly in centre.
RUBKXS. — White, with creamy-rose centre; very large and full
flower.
56 Roses for Amateurs.
SOUVENIR DE PIERRE NUTTING. — Apricot-yellow, suffused with deep
orange ; hardy and free.
SOUVENIR DE S. A. PRINCE. — Pure white; large, full, and globular;
very free. A white sport of SOUVENIR D'UN AMI.
SOUVENIR DE THERESE LEVET.— Deep rosy-crimson; in form some-
thing like NIPHETOS, and the darkest Tea Rose we have.
SOUVENIR D'UN AMI. — Variable somewhat as to colour, but usually
a pale or a deep rose ; large, well-formed, and free.
SUNRISE. — Outer petals reddish carmine, shading to pale fawn, and
pale salmon within ; excellent in bud state.
SUNSET. — An American sport from PERLE DES JARDINS ; a rich
tawny-orange yellow, something in colour like MADAME FALCOT.
THE BRIDE. — Pure white, large, free; a white sport from CATHERINE
MERMET.
WHITE MAMAN COCHET. — Creamy-while, long pointed buds. One of
the best Teas.
Hybrid Tea^s.
ANTOINE RIVOIRE. — Rosy-flesh, with base of petals yellowish; full
and large.
AUGUSTINE GUINOISSEAU. — White; in form resembling LA FRANCE.
BESSIE BROWN. — Creamy-white, very fragrant; free.
CAPTAIN CHRISTY. — ^Delicate flesh pink ; deeper towards the centre ;
large flower.
CAROLINE TESTOUT. — Salmon-pink ; one of the finest in the section.
CLARA WATSON. — Pearly white, with peach-tinted centre ; free.
DR. J. CAMPBELL HALL. — Coral-rose, with white suffusions, and
yellowish at base of petals.
ETOILE DE FRANCE. — Velvety crimson, with cerise centre ; of good
substance and cupped in form.
GRACE DARLING. — Cream, with rosy shadings ; large, and very
free.
KAISERIN AUGUSTA VICTORIA. — Creamy, with lemon shadings,
deeper towards the centre ; a beautiful variety.
KILLARNEY. — Flesh, shaded white, and suffused with pinkish; long
pointed buds ; very free.
LADY ASHTOWN. — Pale rose, shaded to yellow at base of petals;
long pointed buds ; large flower.
LADY BATTERSEA. — Crimson, shaded with orange ; very distinctive.
LA FRANCE. — Silvery rose-lilac ; large and free ; one of the best.
LA TOSCA. — Soft pink, tinted rosy-white and yellow ; vigorous.
LIBERTY. — Brilliant crimson, velvety ; a superb variety.
MME. ABEL CHATENAY. — Carmine-rose, shaded salmon, base of petals
deeper ; long pointed buds.
MME. JULES GROLEZ. — Silvery-rose, shaded yellow at base.
MILDRED GRANT. — Ivory white, tinted pearl, high-pointed centre ;
a lovely variety.
Exhibiting Roses. 57
PAPA GONTIER. — Rosy-crimson ; vigorous.
SOUVENIR DE MME. EUGENE VERDIER. — Creamy-white, shaded
yellow.
VISCOUNTESS FOLKESTONE. — Light pink with darker centre; large,
and very sweet.
Noisettes.
CAROLINE KUSTER.— Bright lemon-yellow; an admirable Rose fur
pot culture ; very free.
CELINE FORESTIER.— Pale yellow, with deeper centre.
LAMARQUE. — White, with lemon shadings.
L' IDEAL. — Yellow and coppery red; excellent as a bud.
WILLIAM ALLEN RICHARDSON. — Deep orange; one of the best for
buttonholes.
Climbers.
There are a host of varieties falling under this head, although, of
course, the word "climber" is incorrectly used. As the
average amateur having a greenhouse can only accommodate
successfully one variety, then his choice could scarcely be
better bestowed than upon MARECHAL KIEL. It is best to
have the rose on a Standard Briar, and for the root to be
outside, bringing the head through into the house.
Hybrid Perpetuals.
BARONESS ROTHSCHILD. — Exquisite light pink; scentless.
CAPTAIN HAYWARD.— Scarlet-crimson.
FRAU KARL DRUSCHKI. — Pure white ; the finest of all while roses.
GENERAL JACQUEMINOT. — In colour resembling Captain Hayward,
but brighter.
MRS. JOHN LAING. — Rosy-pink; sweet-scented.
ULRICH BRUNNER. — Cerise-red; large, and fragrant.
Exhibiting Roses.
Disbudding and Shading.
We have already said that there is very little difference
in the cultivation of Roses for the ordinary enjoyment of the
grower and for exhibition, save in the two points of disbudding
and shading. Of course there are some who make it prac-
58 Roses for Amateurs.
tically a business ; these are, for the most part nurserymen
and Rose .specialists. This work, however, is obviously not
intended for such as these, but for the amateur who desires to
excel. In the gardens of the majority of amateurs who
appreciate Roses space is, unfortunately, very restricted and.
as we have stated elsewrhere, the flowers cannot be produced
to perfection when crowded amongst rampant-growing sub-
jects in the mixed bed or border. If the amateur has a
fairly large garden and seriously intends to go in for Rose
exhibition, it will be a good plan to set apart a spacv
specially to accommodate his trees. Often in a large kitchen
garden space could be found for such, and there they could
doubtless be more readily attended to than in the flower
garden proper. Still Rose-showing, like many other hobbies,
has been reduced to a fine art, and the amateur must not
expect at the outset to compete successfully with those who
have had to buy their experience. An exhibitor must be
careful about disbudding, although, under certain circum-
stances, he may be indifferent about shading. It is of
no use — rather the reverse — for an exhibitor to leave more
than one bud at the end of each shoot ; therefore, as soon as
they are large enough, the side buds must be taken out ; and,
in case of high winds prevailing, each shoot should have a
stake. It is always best to be provided with shades, which
are to be placed over each blossom ; these are made of various
kinds. We have known a grower ere now shade his Teas
with what are ordinarily called Zulu hats; these can be had
at a very cheap rate. Another form of shading is to make
conical caps of wire, and then to stretch on these thin calico.
Still, the best form of blossom-protector that we know is the
Acme (of which an illustration is given). This combines
lightness and rigidity with ready adjustability and durability.
The object in shading is to keep the flowers clear from rain,
and also, in the case of the darker flowers, to shield them
from the burning effects of the sun's rays.
Exhibiting Roses.
59
"Feeding" the Plants.
Roses intended for exhibition will need to be carefully
"fed" by means of good natural and artificial manure.
The Acme Rose Shade.
The actual manure to be employed must necessarily vary with
the kind of soil. Where this is light the farmyard or stable
manure should consist of cow-dung or peat-moss fitter. On
60 Roses for Amateurs.
the other hand, where the staple is heavy, then horse manure
is preferable. Whichever is used, we have found it far more
serviceable when well soaked with the rich liquid drainings
from the heap in a stockyard ; or, failing that, the ordinary
house-slops may be similarly employed. Those who grow
Roses for show would do well to keep such a heap if this be
possible, with a view to utilising it in the autumn. In order
to prevent it from going rank the mass would require to be
turned occasionally. Farmyard manure as a mulch may
also be applied in spring, after pruning has taken place.
With regard to other manures, opinions differ considerably
as to which of the many artificial and others may be used
with benefit. Still, most growers will agree that the majority
of those " artificials " already referred to may be used with
particular benefit. Then there are also other special manures
— basic slag, superphosphate of lime, bone-meal, and muriate
of potash, for example — that must not be lost sight of.
Basic slag and muriate of potash and superphosphates are
excellent for light soils. They tend to impart floriferousness,
as well as sturdiness and substance, to the flowers, which is
all-important in the case of exhibition Roses. The former
should be used at the rate of 2oz. to the square yard, and
the superphosphates in a similar proportion, save that muriate
of potash (Joz.) should be combined therewith in addition.
These are best put on the soil in late spring. Weak
manure and soot-water in combination may also be applied
once a week in summer, taking advantage of a .showery day.
Show Apparatus.
Having determined to try his hand at exhibiting, it is
necessary for the amateur to be provided with the requisite
apparatus for so doing. Boxes according to the number of
Roses to be accommodated must be provided, also tubes
and wires, and plenty of moss, more especially of nice,
smooth, green moss, for the surface of the boxes. A box
Exhibiting Roses.
for six blossoms ought to be ift. long, a box for twelve, 2ft.,
for eighteen, 2ft. yin., and for twenty-four, 3ft. 6in. They
should be of a uniform width and depth, as nothing is more
puzzling to the managers of shows than to have boxes of
various widths to arrange; and. moreover, experience has
shown that these sizes are the ones in which flowers are
displayed best. They should be i8in. wide, and 4in. deep in
front and 6in. at back, with a lid made to slide off, so that
there is no shaking of the flowers on removing it.
Cutting the Blossoms.
A great deal has been said upon this subject, and, as in
many other things, people differ. It has been often said,
n What great advantages the grower near home must have
over those who come from a distance, because he can cut his
flowers the same morning!'1 but, as a matter of fact, he
rarely does so. We have known experienced Rosarians who
advocate cutting them in the middle of the day before the
show ; but this is going to the other extreme. The evening
of that day is, perhaps, time enough, but before the dew
falls, for experience will show the exhibitor that there is
nothing save rain which is so apt to cause the colour to
fl fly." Of course, where the Roses are shaded, they will
escape this ; but we believe that most Rosarians prefer the
evening. Where, however, it is possible, and where Roses
are protected, the amateur will, most probably, defer a
good deal of his cutting till the morning; but let not the
amateur who is obliged to cut the evening before imagine
he fights at long odds. Over and over again have we seen
one from a distance who has, perforce, cut his Roses the
evening before, and travelled with them all night, beat, on
his own ground, an amateur of like standing.
There is no point on which the young and inexperienced
amateur makes a greater mistake than this. He goes into
his garden the day before the show ; he sees a magnificent
62 Roses for Amateurs.
Marie Baumann or a Duke of Edinburgh before him ; he
pictures to himself how grandly it would look in his box on
the occasion ; he cuts it at night, and, when he looks at it
in the morning, he fancies '(surely it must be fancy?) that it
is a little gone off. The remembrance of what, it was still
haunts him, and he ventures to put it in his box, forgetting
that it has some time to stay yet, that July is a hot month,
and that before he uncovers the lid of his box for the judge's
inspection the beauty of the Rose will be hopelessly gone.
It is of no use saying it was a beauty; judges don't decide
by what has been, but by what is, and many people do not
realise this. Fully-expanded blossoms ought never to be
taken, however beautiful they may be. Roses three-quarters,
or even half, open are the best. The exhibitor should have
a conl and somewhat dark place to which he can take them
as they are cut, for it is not well to have them at all
exposed ; and if a few are taken at a time, there is less
likelihood of confusion as to names. The flowers should be
cut with long stems : they can easily be reduced afterwards.
Preparing the Boxes.
It will be necessary to be provided with plenty of moss
for packing the boxes, also some green moss for placing on
the top, and tubes in which to place the Roses. For the
latter there were at one time used a good many contrivances,
physic-bottles included ; but now the zinc tube specially
made for them is employed by every good exhibitor of
Roses.
An excellent arrangement for setting-up Roses is that
invented by Mr. Forster, watchmaker, Ashford, of which we
give an illustration. 'It will be seen that the tube consists
of two parts — that which holds the water, and the top which
is fitted on to it. There is also a wire specially made to
fix the tube, and one to hold the name of the Rose. When
a Rose is to be put in the box, the wire is placed so as to
Exhibiting Roses. 63
hold it in an upright position ; the thin wire is then gently
pressed round the stem, which is next cut to the required
length and placed in the tube. There is this great advan-
tage, that as it becomes sometimes necessary to change the
Forstcr's Patent Rose-holder.
The Frank Cant Exhibi
Rose Tube.
position of a Rose in the stand, it can be taken out without
disturbing the tube; moreover, it makes the wiring, as it is
called, of the flower a most simple operation. The object
of all this is not so much to help the flower — like the dressing
64 Roses for Amateurs.
resorted to in the case of the Carnation and Picotee — as to
add to its appearance. Another good exhibition tube i.s the
Frank Cant Telescopic, so made that the outer tube is
tapering and will fit tightly on any ordinary tube hole. The
inner tube contains the water, the flower, and the label, and,
being telescopic, may be raised 3in. or less, and is kept in
position at any desired height by means of springs, which
cannot get out of order.
Wiring is valuable in all classes, but more especially in
Teas and Noisettes. Marcchal Niel, for instance, always
hangs down its head, but when wired it is seen in all its
beauty. This is the only help that is permitted by the Rules
of the National Rose Society to be given to the Rose at exhi-
bitions. In the early days of Rose-showing, it used to be
permissible to add Rose and other foliage ; but this has been
strictlv forbidden.
Position of Flowers in Box.
Having, then, cut the blossoms and carried them into
the cool shed, or wherever the boxes may be, the position of
the flowers in the box must be determined. There is a good
deal more in this than the novice imagines, for, although it
is the flowers and net the arrangement which are judged,
yet the latter goes for a good deal. If, for instance, two
red Roses are placed together, it is more than probable that
one will kill the other, and make it look dull; whereas, if
a light-coloured flower had been placed between them, it
would have made both look better, while the brilliancy ol
the red flowers would have made the light flo\ver appear to
greater advantage. When the moss has been well sprinkled,
then place on the lid of the box, but do not close it. Now,
having got your labels ready (those recommended by the
National Rose Society are the best), cut the stalks of the
Roses to the required length, wire them, and place them in
Varieties for Decoration a^nd Exhibition. 65
the tubes ; then let the lid down on the box, placing a
block of wood just to keep it a little open, sprinkle the
ground with water, shut the door, go to bed, and sleep if
you ran. You will, however, have to be up, not with the
lark, but before him, especially if you have any distance
to go, for there is one very important matter to attend to.
You must get all the spares you can : that is, you must cut all
the buds that have advanced at all during the night — buds
that you thought were not forward enough. You must have
another box with tubes, but not so carefully arranged, and
in it you must put all your spares (perhaps two or three) in
a tube, and prepare them also for their journey. You need
not wire them, unless you have time to do the most promising.
On arriving at the show-ground, you will be wise to secure a
shady spot at the back of the tent, or any place where you
are out of the sun's rays. In considerable trepidation you
now proceed to open your show-box. " Ah, woe is me! '"
you exclaim, " for see how my lovely blossom of Duke of
Edinburgh has blown and lost all its colour; my chaste
blossom of Merveille de Lyon has shown its eye. A good
thing I brought my spares." On looking at these you find,
to your surprise, that many blossoms which you put in only
as buds have developed into fine blossoms; and you joyfully
take out those deceivers on which you relied, and replace
them by " spares." We have, indeed, known cases where
every blossom that had been placed in the exhibition-box had
failed, and had to be replaced. And now, if you have a few
minutes to spare, stand by your box, and watch the other
exhibitors opening theirs, and patiently await the judges.
Varieties for Decoration and Exhibition.
Cross-Fertilisation and Pedigree Roses.
In former days new varieties of Roses raised were mostly
what may be called haphazard Roses; there was no attempt
F
66 Roses for Amateurs.
at cross-fertilisation, the seed-vessels were gathered promis-
cuously, and bees and moths and the gentle summer breezes
were the principal agents in fertilising. But a better state of
things now exists, and what are called pedigree Roses are
much in evidence. The late Mr. Henry Bennett, of Shepper-
ton, near Salisbury, first began this good work, and although
his earliest productions were not all that he thought them to
be, he was evidently on the right track, and he produced some
of the most valuable Roses that we have. One has only to
mention Her Majesty, Heinrich Schultheis, Viscountess Folke-
stone, and Mrs. John Laing, to show how successful he v:as.
Of these, Her Majesty and Mrs. John Laing have been
awarded a gold medal by the National Rose Society.
Taking it all in all, the latter Rose is probably the most
useful exhibition flower we have; it is good both early and
late, while its blossoms are always well formed and have
a very sweet perfume. Mr. Bennett at his death left behind
many seedling plants ; these were purchased by various
growers, and one or other of them now and then puts forward
a claim to distinction. The same line of raising pedigree
Roses was taken up by an Irish firm, Messrs. Alexander
Dickson and Sons, of Newtownards, and their success has
been of a very marked character, they having obtained many
gold medals for new seedling Roses. Many of their 'Roses
are exceptionally fine. Mrs. W. J. Grant was purchased by
an American firm, which gave it another name, Belle Sie-
brecht, but the English Rose-growers have adhered to the
name for which it received the gold medal. As the firm is
still flourishing there is no doubt that we shall obtain many
more good Roses from it.
Enumeration,
In presenting the following list we have been guided to
a great extent by the work of the Committee of the National
Rose Society. We have given the names of the raisers and
Varieties for Dacoration and Exhibition. 67
the dates at which the varieties were sent out, as these
are always interesting to growers : —
Hybrid Perpetuals.
ABEL CARRIERS (Eugene Verdier, 1875). — Fine, dark maroon, imbri-
cated ; wood very thorny ; rather inclined to mildew.
A. K. WILLIAMS (J. Schwartz, 1877). — Bright carmine-red; a good
autumnal bloomer. One of the most beautifully shaped Roses
we have ; perfectly imbricated. Does not appear to like
removal, so when it is possible it should be budded where it
is to remain.
ALFRED COLOMB (Lacharme, 1865). — Bright red, globular. One of
those Roses which cannot be described as very vigorous, but it
cannot be dispensed with ; sometimes it is hardly distinguish-
able from MARIE BAUMANN. Very fragrant.
BARONESS ROTHSCHILD (Fernet, 1867). — Light pink in colour; good
cup-shaped ; flowers freely in autumn, but is unfortunately
scentless ; cannot be done without.
BEAUTY OF WALTHAM (W. Paul and Son, 1862). — Bright rosy-crim-
son, imbricated, very fragrant. An instance of how long a
good Rose will continue in favour.
BEN CANT (B. R. Cant and Sons, 1902). — Deep crimson, with
slightly darker flushes in the centre; flower large and of good
shape ; very sweetly scented ; an abundant bloomer. Needs a
good deal of thinning.
CAMILLE BERNARDIN (Gautreau, 1865). — Light crimson, paler on the
edges, fragrant ; a Rose that can always be depended upon,
but shoots should be tied, on account of the weighty flowers.
CAPTAIN HAYWARD (Bennett, 1893). — Brilliant crimson, large, and
fragrant, with well-formed long petals ; needs to be well done
if to give of its best. Very free-flowering, somewhat inclined
to be thin.
CHARLES LEFEBVRE (Lacharme, 1861). — Identical with MARGUERITE
BRASSAC and PAUL JAMAIN; it is a magnificent Rose, and can
always be depended upon by the exhibitor.
CLIO (Paul and Son, 1894). — Flesh pink, with deeper centre; a
vigorous and good all-round Rose.
COMTE DE RAIMBAUD (Roland, 1868). — Dark carmine-red, large and
full ; of fine form.
COUNTESS OF OXFORD (Guillot pere, 1869). — Carmine-red, large and
full ; vigorous ; smooth wood ; fine foliage, and a reliable Rose
when well treated.
CROWN PRINCE (W. Paul and Son, 1880).— Deep crimson, with a
purple shade ; vigorous, and very free-flowering.
DR. ANDRY (E. Verdier, 1864). — Bright red, large, of perfect form;
some of the best Roses we have seen exhibited were of this
variety. Very fragrant.
68 Roses for Amateurs.
DUCHESS OF BEDFORD (Postans, 1879). — Rich velvety scarlet-crimson ;
full and of excellent form ; moderate grower.
DUCHESSE DE MORNY (E. Verdier, 1863). — Silvery rose; globular,
free-flowering, moderately vigorous; good in autumn; requires
to be carefully thinned.
DUKE OF CONNAUGHT (Paul and Son, 1876). — Bright, velvety-crim-
son ; rather small, fit for a front Rose in an exhibition stand.
DUKE OF EDINBURGH (Paul and Son, 1868).— Vermilion-red, velvety;
most beautiful and useful Rose, always to be found in exhibi-
tion stands, and one of those that flower freely in autumn ;
should be lightly pruned.
DUKE OF TECK (Paul and Son, 1880). — Vivid crimson-scarlet, some-
what of the colour of the DUKE OF EDINBURGH ; large, globular
flower ; a useful Rose.
DUKE OF WELLINGTON (Granger, 1864). — Bright crimson, full, of
fine form and free. Synonymous with ROSIERISTE JACOBS
(Veuve Ducher, 1880).
DUPUY JAMAIN (Jamain, 1868). — Bright cerise; large, full, and of
nice fragrance ; vigorous and good autumn bloomer ; should be
lightly pruned.
EARL OF DUFFERIN (Alexander Dickson and Sons, 1887). — Velvety
crimson with maroon shading, very fragrant ; blossoms need to
be tied ; late flowering.
ETIENNE LEVET (Levet, 1871). — Carmine-rose, large, shell-petalled ;
smooth wooded ; very vigorous.
FISHER HOLMES (E. Verdier, 1865). — Shaded crimson-scarlet; a very
bright and free-flowering Rose ; good in autumn ; requires care-
ful disbudding.
FRANCOIS MICHELON (Levet, 1871). — Deep rose, reverse of petals
silvery; exceedingly fine.
FRAU KARL DRUSCHKI (P. Lambert, 1900). — Pure white, with shell-
shaped petals ; flowers with high pointed centre ; large, free, and
a good grower.
GENERAL JACQUEMINOT (Roussel, 1853). — Crimson-scarlet, very free
and fragrant. An old Rose, but one still able to carry off
medals.
GUSTAVE PIGANEAU (Pernet-Ducher, 1889).— Brilliant carmine-lake;
very large and full ; of good form ; moderate grower.
HEINRICH SCHULTHEIS (Bennett, 1882).— Pinkish-rose, bright in
colour, but apt to go off when expanded. Very fragrant.
HELEN KELLER (A. Dickson and Sons, 1895). — Brilliant rose-cerise;
flowers large, of good substance, and having shell-shaped petals.
HER MAJESTY (Bennett, 1885). — Bright satiny-rose pink; large flower,
but terribly subject to mildew ; small growers should avoid it
unless they hav? a separate place for it; it should be budded on
the Briar ; very vigorous.
HUGH DICKSON (Hugh Dickson, 1904). — Bright crimson, shaded
scarlet; very fragrant; high pointed centre; vigorous.
HUGH WATSON (A. Dickson, 1904). — Crimson, with carmine shading;
very large ; vigorous.
Varieties for Decoration and Exhibition.
69
LAURENCE ALLEN (Cooling, 1896). — Clear pink, large, very fragrant,
and strong grower.
LE HAVRE (Eude, 1871).— Vermilion-red, of good substance; not very
large.
General Jacqueminot (H.P.), bright crimson, globular, with pointed
centre, fragrant and free; one of the best varieties, though
over half-a-century old, for either decorative effect or
exhibition.
Louis VAN HOUTTE (Lacharme, 1869). — Bright amaranth-red; large
and full, but difficult to grow.
MADAME GABRIEL LUIZET (Liabaud, 1877). — Light silvery pink; one
of the most beautiful pink Roses that we have ; early flowering,
very free, and fragrant ; should be lightly pruned.
70 Roses for Amateurs.
MADAME VICTOR VERDIER (E. Verdier, 1863). — One of our best crim-
son Roses ; very free flowering, and constant.
MAHARAJAH (B. R. Cant and Sons, 1904). — Deep velvety crimson; of
vigorous growth and an excellent pillar Rose.
MARCHIONESS OF DUFPERIH (A. Dickson and Sons, 1891).— Rosy pink;
very vigorous ; imbricated.
MARCHIONESS OF LONDONDERRY (A. Dickson and Sons, 1893). — Ivory-
white, with large shell petals ; large and globular.
MARGARET DICKSON (A. Dickson and Sons, 1891). — White, with pale
pink centre. Should not be too closely pruned ; very large, and
strong grower.
MARIE BAUMANN (Baumann, 1863). — Soft carmine-red. One of our
very best exhibition Roses, frequently obtaining the medal for
the best Rose in the show. Very fragrant.
MARIE RADY (Fontaine, 1865). — Bright red; very constant, and does
well in a hot season. COMTESSE DE CHOISEUL is a reproduction
of this.
MARQUISE DE CASTELLANE (Fernet, 1869).— Clear, cherry-rose; very
robust and free-flowering; constant.
MAURICE BERNARDIN (Granger, 1861). — Shaded crimson; good form,
and fragrant. This is identical with EXPOSITION DE BRIE
(Granger, 1865).
MERVEILLE DE LYON (Fernet, 1882). — White, with rosy centre; cup-
shaped; free. A seedling or a sport from BARONESS ROTH-
SCHILD.
MRS. COCKER (Cocker, 1899). — Soft pink, with a high centre;
large and full, hardy.
MRS. JOHN LAING (Bennett, 1887).— Clear, bright rose, a continuous
bloomer, fragrant, and always to be relied on. The best of the
late Mr. Bennett's seedlings.
MRS. R. G. SHARMAN CRAWFORD (A. Dickson and Sons, 1894). —
Clear rosy-pink, outer petals shaded pale flesh, imbricated ;
free, good in autumn.
PRIDE OF WALTHAM (W. Paul and Son, 1881). — Light salmon-pink.
In wood and foliage very like COUNTESS OF OXFORD.
PRINCE ARTHUR (B. R. Cant, 1875).— Bright crimson. A very bright
form of GENERAL JACQUEMINOT.
PRINCE CAMILLE DE ROHAN (E. Verdier, 1861). — Deep velvety crim-
son-maroon. One of our very best dark Roses ; very free-
flowering. LA ROSIERE is identical with this.
SENATEUR VAISSE (Guillot pere, 1859). — Bright showy red ; fragrant;
large and double ; flowers freely in autumn.
STAR OF WALTHAM (W. Paul and Son, 1875). — Carmine, shaded violet.
A good hot-weather Rose.
SUZANNE MARIE RODOCANACHI (Leveque, 1883). — Soft rosy-cerise;
very vigorous, and retains its colour when cut.
TOM WOOD (Alex. Dickson and Sons, 1896). — Cherry-red, with shell-
sliaped petals; good form; excellent in autumn.
ULRICH BRUNNER (Levet, 1881).— Bright cherry-red. A very large
shell-petalled Rose of sweet fragrance, and a great favourite.
Varieties for Decoration and Exhibition. 71
ULSTER (A. Dickson and Sons, 1899). — Bright cherry-red ; very large
blossoms with high pointed centre ; robust. An exhibition Rose
only.
VICTOR HUGO (Schwartz, 1884). — Bright crimson, shaded purple; of
good form. One of the best of its colour.
Teas and Noisettes.
ANNA OLIVIER (Ducher, 1872). — Pale buff, flushed with rose. A
distinct and beautiful Rose, very constant bloomer, but varies
somewhat in colour.
BRIDESMAID (N. May, 1890). — Bright pink. A sport from
CATHERINE MERMET, sometimes reverting to original.
CAROLINE KUSTER (Fernet, 1872). — Lemon-yellow, globular ; vigorous.
CATHERINE MERMET (J. B. Guillot fils, 1869).— Light rosy flesh; very
fragrant. One of the finest in its section.
CLEOPATRA (Bennett, 1889). — Pale pink, edged with rose; long
pointed buds; chiefly of use for exhibition.
COMTESSE DE NADAiLLAC (J. B. Guillot fils, 1871). — Peach, shaded
apricot, base of petals coppery; very Jarge.
DEVONIENSIS (Foster, 1838). — Creamy-white, large and full. It
is moderate in growth, but the sport from it, ('LIMBING DEVO-
NIENSIS (Pavitt, 1858), is very vigorous, and the blossoms are
identical with those of the type. The oldest of our English
Tea Roses.
EMPRESS ALEXANDRA OF RUSSIA (W. Paul and Son, 1897). — Lake-red.
One of the darkest of our Teas.
ERNEST METZ (Guillct, 1888). — Soft carmine-rose, brighter towards
the centre ; globular ; vigorous.
ETHEL BROWNLOW (A. Dickson and Sons, 1887). — Rosy flesh, with
yellow base. A vigorous and lasting Rose ; needs careful dis-
budding.
GOLDEN G^TE (Dingee and Conard, 1892). — Creamy-white, with base
and centre soft yellow, often tinted rose ; flowers large, and
having pointed buds ; free.
HON. EDITH GIFFORD (Guillot, 1882). — White, with flesh centre; very
free-flowering.
INNOCENTS PIROLA (Ducher, 1878). — Creamy-white; globular, with
pointed centre ; very constant.
LADY ROBERTS (F. Cant and Co., 1902). — Deep apricot, with base
coppery red and edges shaded orange ; a vigorous sport from
ANNA OLIVIER.
MADAME BRAVY (Guillot pere, 1848). — White, with pink centre; very
hardy and free-flowering Rose. ALBA ROSEA, JOSEPHINE MAL-
TON, and MADAME DE SERTOT are similar to this Rose.
MADAME CONSTANT SOUPERT (Soupert and Netting, 1905). — Golden-
yellow, tinted flesh-pink; large, full, and well formed.
MADAME CUSIN (Guillot fils, 1881). — Violet-rose, yellow base; very
distinct and fragrant.
MADAME DE WATTEVILLE (Guillot, 1883). — Cream, tinted with rose on
the edges ; very distinct and fragrant ; needs careful disbudding.
72
Roses for Amateurs.
MADAME HOSTE (Guillot, 1887). — Pale lemon-yellow; large and full;
vigorous and free-flowering.
MAMAN COCHET (Cochet, 1893). — Deep flesh, outer petals suffused
with rose ; a very popular flower. There is a white sport of
Catherine Mermet (T.), light rosy flesh globular, with high centre,
large, free, and highly fragrant.
this, WHITE MAMAN COCHET, which will probably be regarded as
the best of the white Teas.
MARECHAL NIEL (Pradel, 1864). — Brilliant bright golden yellow;
hardly suitable for outdoor cultivation. The best of all the
Noisettes.
MARIE VAN HOUTTE (Ducher, 1871). — Lemon-yellow, edges of petals
pink ; very hardy and free-flowering. Needs light pruning.
Varieties for Decoration and Exhibition. 73
MEDEA (W. Paul and Son, 1891). — Lemon-yellow, with deeper
centre; large and full.
MRS. B. R. CANT (B. R. Cant and Sons, 1901). — Reep rose with
silvery inner petals ; vigorous and free.
MRS. EDWARD MAWLEY (A. Dickson and Sons, 1899). — Pink, tinted
carmine ; well-formed flowers of good substance ; high pointed
centre ; shell-petalled.
MURIEL GRAHAME (A. Dickson and Sons, 1896). — Pale cream flushed
with rose. A distinct sport from CATHERINE MERMET.
XIPHETOS (Bougere, 1844). — Pure white, with long pointed buds. The
climbing variety is very vigorous. Very largely used for
forcing by the London market gardeners.
RUBENS (Robert, 1859). — White, shaded with creamy-rose. Very free-
flowering and fragrant.
SOUVENIR D'ELISE VARDON (Marest, 1854). — Creamy white, with yel-
lowish-rose centre ; very large and globular ; foliage copper-
coloured. Although at times difficult to grow, this beautiful
rose should not be left out. It does best as a Half-Standard.
SOUVENIR DE PIERRE NOTTING (Soupert and Netting, 1902). — Apricot-
yellow, suffused coppery-yellow ; long buds ; vigorous.
SOUVENIR DE S. A. PRINCE (Prince, 1889). — A white sport of
SOUVENIR D'UN AMI. A very useful and constant Rose.
SOUVENIR DE THERESE LEVET (Levet, 1882). — Brownish-crimson;
vigorous. One of the darkest of our Tea Roses.
SCUVENIR D'UN AMI (Belot Defougere, 1846). — Salmon and rose-
shaded ; large and double ; a useful, hardy variety.
SUNRISE (Piper, 1899). — Outer petals reddish-carmine, shading to
fawn within ; needs light pruning ; suitable for growing under
glass only.
SYLPH (W. Paul and Son, 1895). — White, tinted peach, large and
very free-flowering.
THE BRIDE (May, 1885). — A white sport from CATHERINE MERMET;
vigorous.
Hybrid Teas.
ALICE LINDSELL (Alex. Dickson and Sons, 1902).— Creamy-white,
with pink centre ; vigorous.
ANGEL PELUFFO (Soupert and Netting, 1904). — Flesh-pink, with
darker centre ; large, full, and free.
BESSIE BROWN (Alex. Dickson and Sons, 1899). — Creamy-white, very
large flowers, of excellent substance.
CAPTAIN CHRISTY (Lacharme, 1873). — Flesh colour, deeper in centre ;
fine foliage. The climbing variety of this is very vigorous.
CAROLINE TESTOUT (Pernet fils Ducher, 1890). — Light salmon-pink,
globular ; vigorous and very distinct.
COUNTESS OF CALEDON (Alex. Dickson and Sons, 1897). — Carmine-
rose ; large and full.
COUNTESS OF DERBY (Alex. Dickson and Sons, 1905). — Salmon with
rosy edges; large and full.
74
Roses for Amateurs.
Ka.iscrin Au gusta Victoria (H.T.). white, with yellow centre; a vigorous
variety.
Varieties for Decoration and Exhibition. 75
DEAN HOLE (Alex. Dickson and Sons, 1904). — Silvery carmine, with
salmon shading ; high centre. A very fine variety.
DUCHESS OF ALBANY (W. Paul and Son, 1888). — Dark pink. A
deeper-coloured LA FRANCE.
EARL OF WARWICK (W. Paul and Son, 1904). — Soft salmon-pink,
shaded bright red in centre ; of good form.
EDITH D'OMBRAIN (A. Dickson and Sons, 1902). — White, with a pink
tinge; large, full, imbricated flowers; robust.
FLORENCE PEMBERTON (Alex. Dickson and Sons, 1902). — Creamy-
white, with pink edges.
GRANDE DUCHESSE VICTORIA MELITA (Lambert, 1897). — Creamy-white,
with light yellow centre ; vigorous.
KAISERIN AUGUSTA VICTORIA (Lambert and Reiter, 1891).— Cream,
shaded lemon ; vigorous. A distinct light Rose, very nearly a
pure Tea.
KILLARNEY (Alex. Dickson and Sons, 1898). — Flesh, shaded white,
suffused pale pink ; flowers large, with pointed bud ; free.
LADY MOYRA BEAUCLERC (A. Dickson and Sons, 1901). — Bright
madder-rose, with silvery-white reflex ; very large flowers ;
vigorous.
LA FRANCE (J. B. Guillot fils, ,1867). — Silvery rose, with pale lilac
shading ; free-flowering, and very fragrant. A general
favourite.
MADAME CADEAU RAMEY (Pernet Ducher, 1896). — Carmine-rose, with
yellow shading. Large and free.
MARQUISE LITTA (Pernet Ducher, 1893). — Carmine-rose, with brighter
centre ; very distinct in colour ; early and vigorous.
MILDRED GRANT (Alex. Dickson and Sons, 1901). — Ivory-white, suf-
fused pale peach ; very large flowers of fine substance.
MRS. W. J. GRANT (Alex. Dickson and Sons, 1895).— Bright rosy-
pink ; vigorous ; very free-flowering. This is synonymous with
BELLE SIEBRECHT.
PAPA LAMBERT (P. Lambert, 1899). — Salmon-rose, with deeper
shadings in the centre ; large flowers and long pointed buds.
VISCOUNTESS FOLKESTONE (Bennett, 1886). — Creamy-white, with
salmon-pink shadings in the centre ; large, full flowers of exqui-
site shape, free.
YVONNE VACHEROT (Soupert and Netting, 1905). — China-white, with
pink markings ; long pointed buds.
In the above enumeration the following in their respective
sections must be classed as Exhibitors' Roses pure and
simple; the remainder may be regarded as of general use
as well: — Hybrid Perpetual* : A. K. Williams, Camille
Bernardin, Duchess of Bedford, Duchesse de Morny, Earl
of Dufferin, Francois Michelon, Gustave Piganeau, Helen
Keller, Le Havre, Louis Van Houtte, Marchioness of Lon-
76 Roses for Amateurs.
donderry, Victor Hugo. Teas and Noisettes: Cleopatra,
Comtesse de Naclaillac, Ernest Metz, Innocente Pirola,
Madame Cusin, Madame de Watteville, Muriel Grahame,
Souvenir d'Elise Vardon. Hybrid Teas: Captain Christy,
Mildred Grant, Papa Lambert.
Garden Roses.
Comprehensiveness of the Term.
The previous sections have chiefly dealt with what are
usually designated Exhibition Roses. There are, however,
other classes of Roses, which were once more largely cultivated,
but which have given place in great part to the more satis-
factory Hybrid Perpetuals, Hybrid Teas, and Teas. There
is, in truth, much illusion on this subject. We hear people
talk a great deal about old-fashioned Roses, and go into
raptures about the old Cabbage and the Damask and York
and Lancaster Roses, which, it is said, are pushed into the
background by their more pretentious rivals ; but, in truth,
we have in our Exhibition Roses many with a perfume quite
as strong as that of the old Cabbage, while the delicate
fragrance of the Tea, Hybrid Tea, and Noisette Roses gives
us another kind of perfume, to many more pleasing than
the others. "Oh!" but some say, "there are the single
Roses; w^hat more lovely than even the wild Dog Rose?"
There are some of them, doubtless, very beautiful, but they
are evanescent ; and we must remember that in all these
Garden Roses \ve have but one season of blossoming — they
come in with a rush in June, and when that beautiful wealth
of blossom is over they are simply green bushes for the
remainder of the season ; while you may gather from Hybrid
Perpetuals from day to day blossoms which, if not equal
to the summer ones, are still very lovely, and in the Teas
and Hybrid Teas you may, up to the very end of October,
Garden Roses. 77
obtain lovely and sweet-scented flowers. Some persons seem
to expect that these Garden Roses are to be a thing of beauty
for the whole summer, but there can be no greater mistake
than this ; and if they imagine that by growing garden
York and Lancaster Roses (Damask).
Roses they are to have this enjoyment, the sooner they give
up the idea the better, and the less disappointment they will
experience; they will have a grand mass of blossom for
about three weeks, and then nothing more for the remainder
78 Roses for Amateurs.
of the twelve months. With regard to York and Lancaster
Roses, it may be stated that two varieties are sold under
this name. The true type is flat white, striped with red, or
sometimes half red or half white and at others all red or all
white flowers on same stem. The variety often sold as York
and Lancaster is Rosa Mundi, red with white stripes.
Many classes of Roses are requisitioned to make up
what by Rose specialists are familiarly known as Garden
Roses. There are, as we have already said, those old Roses
of our childhood, which many remember with so much affec-
tion, and also a number of single or nearly single Roses, such
as macrantha, Paul's Carmine Pillar, Bardou Job, Paul's
Royal Scarlet, &c. ; all the single and nearly single Sweet
Briars ; and that remarkable Rose, Crimson Rambler, which
created such a furore a few years ago. Into this class also
are relegated, as already suggested, many Roses which for-
merly were placed amongst exhibition flowers but, having
been distanced by new varieties, are retained for their decora-
tive qualities and freedom of flowering, such as John Hopper,
Jules Margottin, and Gloire de Margottin ; some of the Tea
and Noisette flowers, which for peculiarity of colouring are
greatly admired, and without which no Rose-garden would
be complete — for who would like to be without William Allen
Richardson, Madame Chedane Guinoisseau, or L'Ideal? We
will a little later on deal with the more noteworthy of these
sections.
Roses for Specific Purposes.
" Climbing " and Weeping Roses.
In former days there were all sorts of fanciful designs
for training Roses over trellises, arches, etc., but after a
time these fell into desuetude, only to be revived some years
after. Pillars or poles are now largely used, and some
of the varieties of what are called " climbing " Roses (for
Roses for Specific Purposes. 79
there is really no such thing as a climbing Rose— that is,
one which lays hold of anything to support it, as a Clematis)
will do for this purpose ; but there are many which, by their
long and vigorous shoots, answer the same purpose when
those shoots are nailed or tied in. There are nowadays to
be seen weeping Rose-trees, a comparatively recent section,
and one with a fair following. Perhaps one of the most
effective ways of using Climbing Roses is by training them
up the trunks of trees, amongst the branches of which their
brilliant flowers showr to perfection.
Pergolas.
These Italian introductions into English gardens have
taken a firm hold, and, when properly located, they are most
welcome additions. Still, the craze for the pergola has been
so great that we see it " dragged " into a most unsuitable
environment. Generally speaking, the pergola in the villa
garden is quite out of keeping. In some few instances we have
noted it used to separate, say, the lawn and herbaceous bor-
ders from the kitchen garden ; but even for this purpose
it is open to doubt whether a hedge of Sweetbriar or of
Rosa rugosa would not be more in keeping with the sur-
roundings. Pergolas may be made at a very small cost with
larch poles, and the average everyday structure so called
consists of uprights, cross-pieces at the top, and angular pieces
running from the uprights to the top. Where a still more
pretentious effect is aimed at (though in taste it is question-
able) chains are made to depend in various ways that fancy
may dictate. Varieties for this purpose are very numerous,
though the following selection should meet the re-
quirements of most amateurs : — Dorothy Perkins,
Turner's Crimson Rambler, Paul's Carmine Pillar,
Alister Stella Gray, Blush Rambler, Bennett's Seedling
(Thoresbyana), Mme. Alfred Carriere, Reve d'Or, Gardenia,
and Paul's Single White.
8o Roses for Amateurs.
Pillar Roses
The practice of growing Roses on what are termed pillars
is an increasing one, and so long as they are kept going it is
an exceedingly pretty one ; but in by far the majority of cases
in amateurs' gardens this method of cultivation does not
appear to be a success. There are numberless ways in which
the " pillar " may be " built," and firms like Barnards make
a speciality of everything required for this form of Rose
cultivation, from the modest single pillar to the complicated
umbrella-like erection. Excellent varieties are Crimson Ram-
bler, Reine Marie Henriette, Dorothy Perkins, Longworth
Rambler, Reine Olga de Wurtemberg, Zephirine Drouhin,
R. macrantha, Alister Stella Gray, and Mrs. O. G. Orpen,
William Allen Richardson, Ard's Rover, Climbing Aimee
Vibert, and Ard's Pillar. For shorter pillars, Blairii No. 2,
Griiss an Teplitz, Madame Plantier, Climbing Mrs. W. J.
Grant, and Leuchtstern (see illustration) will be suitable.
Rose Arches.
There is one kind of Rose decoration which is admirable
when well carried out, viz., Rose arches. A walk thus
treated, when properly done, is a very pretty sight ; but alas !
one sees too often the most unsuitable Roses used and the
arches formed in a most slovenly manner. If this is to be
attempted, there are a few practical hints that must be borne
in mind. In the first place, the arches must be of iron-
wood is next to useless, for by the time the Roses cover it
it will begin to rot away, especially if the Roses push vigor-
ously. Three upright pillars should be placed about ift.
back from the edge of the path, and if a series of arches
is determined on they should be not nearer to one another
than 6ft., and would, perhaps, be better 8ft. or gft.
apart. The next point is that suitable Roses should
be employed ; one very often sees utter failure from a
neglect of this simple rule — people think sometimes that any
Roses for Specific Purposes, Si
long-growing Rose will do, which is by no means the case.
There are comparatively few that are suitable, and especially
is this the case with red Roses j but red is a favourite colour,
and so people run the risk of utter failure. The following
Roses may be relied upon as rampant growers, and many
of them are nearly evergreen in foliage : — Longworth Ram-
bler, a light crimson -coloured Rose, abundant in blossoming
and nearly evergreen ; and Reine Marie Henriette, a very
free grower, and producing large red flowers ; Cheshunt
Hybrid, a Hybrid Tea, like the two preceding, but
somewhat dull in colour, yet very fine ; Felicite Perpetue,
a hardy, vigorous Ro'Se, with very dark green foliage, and
covered with immense quantities of whitish flowers ; Reve
d?Or, a Noisette of a most desirable character, splendid in
growth, and really beautiful for its foliage alone, the young
growth being of a bright red colour, while the flowers are
buff-yellow ; and William Allen Richardson, a deep orange-
coloured Rose, small in size, but vigorous in growth, and
very striking in colour.
Climbing Aimee Vibert, so profuse in its clusters of
lovely white flowers, deserves a place in garden decoration.
There are also a few species of Roses which would answer
very well : Rosa indie a anemones -flora, white, makes long,
vigorous shoots, and is handsome in foliage. Then there are
R. Brunonis (syn. R. prcecox), with long shoots, and Rosa
multi-flora (syn. R. poly ant ha), a Japanese species ; the
growth of the latter is vigorous, its flowers are produced in
great abundance, and it is most deliciously scented. Other
varieties for the purpose are Mme. Alfred Carriere, Dundee
Rambler, Splendens, and Bennett's Seedling. Of these the
first is a Hybrid Noisette, and the last three are Ayrshires.
We do not consider the Roses of the Gloire de Dijon type are
suitable for Rose arches ; their shoots are, it is true, very
vigorous, and they blossom profusely, but the scarcity of
foliage and the long, tall, straggling shoots unfit them for
G
82 Roses for Amateurs.
this purpose, however delightful they may be in more suitable
places.
Another point in the arrangement of an arch is that the
Roses planted on it should be of one variety only. People may
admire the mingling of colour produced by planting different
Roses, but it is most desirable that the whole arch should be
in flower at the same time, for it is unpleasant to see half of
it covered with decaying flowers and the other half with
fresh ones. Variety may be gained by planting them alter-
nately in colour, thus: Arch No. i, Longworth Rambler;
2, Aimee Vibert ; 3, Reine Marie Henrietta; 4, W. Allen
Richardson; 5, Cheshunt Hybrid; 6, Reve d'Or; and so on.
The centre walk of the garden treated judiciously in this way
will present a very pleasing sight.
Barnards, Ltd., Norwich, make a feature of Rose Arches;
while Walters and Co., of Water Lane, Great Tower Street,
E.G., specialise in Trellises, &c.
Hoses for Walls, &c.
The varieties enumerated for arches are suitable, or
many of them, for covering walls, outhouses, porches, and
such-like ; and in many situations the Gloire de Dijon race
are much at home, and quite suitable. Fortune's Yellow,
Lamarque, and Madame Berard are other excellent Roses for
walls. Blairii No. 2 is also a very good Rose, but then it
is but a summer Rose, and its beauty is soon gone. One
must not forget the Old China, and its ally, Cramoisie Supe-
rieure, associated as these are with one's earliest garden days,
and bringing with them many a sweet reminder. How beauti-
ful the dark crimson one is when seen pushing its shoots high
up in the shrubberies, and mingling with the foliage of other
trees ! One of these Roses will rapidly cover the stem of a
tree ; and in a shrubbery, where there are often blanks, no
better way of filling them up can be devised than that of
planting one of these so-called climbing Roses. Other lovely
Classification of Garden Roses. 83
varieties for the purpose are Climbing Mrs. W. J. Grant,
Reve d'Or, Mme. Alfred Carriere, Francois Crousse,
Zephirine Drouhin, Bouquet d'Or, and Ards Rover. The
last two will do admirably even on a north wall.
Weeping Roses.
We have already briefly alluded to these in passing. They
consist in the main of standards of a certain height, and
preferably Roses of the Ayrshire type. Still, even given
the very best specimens to start with, not much can be done
unless very careful after-treatment is meted out. For the first
year at least it is usual to prune back the trees somewhat hard
to induce them to make long, vigorous, floriferous shoots,
afterwards regulating them as may become necessary. We
have seen such Roses employed with beautiful effect on a
lawn. All the Rose specialists now sell these Weeping
varieties.
Brief Classification of Garden Roses.
Austrian Briar (Rosa lutea).
Varieties useful for their early-flowering properties and
distinctive coloration. Beyond a somewhat hard pruning the
first spring after planting, little else is needed. Austrian
Copper, Austrian Yellow, Harrisonii, Persian Yellow, and
Soleil d'Or are varieties to make a note of.
Ayrshire Roses (Rosa repens hybrida).
Most useful varieties for banks, old tree-stumps, &c., if
given a sunny position. Little or no pruning is needed.
Good varieties are Alice Gray, Bennett's Seedling, Dundee
Rambler, Ruga, and Splendens.
Ba^nksian Roses.
Lovely Roses suited only for a south wall and a fairly
good soil. After the first pruning in the spring succeeding
G 2
84 Roses for Amateurs.
planting, all that need be done is to remove old and
exhausted wood after flowering. The yellow variety is the
favourite.
Bourbon Roses.
Chiefly valued as autumn Roses and from the fact that
several of the varieties make excellent town plants. Pruning
Austrian Briar Rose Austrian Yellow p. 83).
will depend largely upon the individual, as these Roses vary
much in character. The vigorous varieties (of which the
time-honoured Souvenir de la Malmaison is a type) need only
have their strongest shoots slightly shortened. Weak-grow-
ing, on the other hand, need more severe priming. Mrs.
Paul with the variety already named (Zephirine Drouhin)
should be grown, while other excellent types are Setmay
Hermosa (Armosa) and Mme. Isaac Periere.
Classification of Garden Roses. 85
Boursault Roses.
Where a variety is required that is likely to succeed almost
anywhere in town or in country, Inermis Morlettii may be
selected. Shorten the tips of the shoots in spring and thin
out weak and exhausted wood.
Chinese or Monthly Roses (Rosa indica and R. semper-
florens).
Free-flowering hardy Roses, best grown in a sunny spot.
They are excellent for massing in beds ; while the Common
type and that known as Old Crimson are often used for
making Rose-hedges. All the pruning that they need is a
shortening back of the strongest shoots in late spring. Varie-
ties to grow are Aurore, Cramoisie Superieure, Comtesse du
Cayla, Ducher, Irene Watts, Laurette Messimy, Queen Mab,
Red Pet, and White Pet.
Damask Roses (Rosa damascena).
Hardy, very fragrant varieties, most satisfactory as
bushes, though there are some that lend themselves to wall
or pillar cultivation — Mrs. O. G. Orpen and Lady Curzon
lor example. Other desirable varieties are York and Lan-
caster (see illustration, p. 77), Lady Sarah Wilson, Red
Damask, and Village Maid. Not much pruning is called
for.
Evergreen Roses (Rosa sempervirens).
Very hardy Roses for walls, pillars, &c. ; or they may
be had as Weeping varieties. Donna Maria, Felicite Per-
petue, and Myrianthes Renoncule are excellent, the first
especially. Only the tips of long shoots should be removed ;
but the weakly ones may be cut out.
Hybrid Sweetbriars.
A section that has acquired great popularity is that known
as Lord Penzance's Hybrid Sweetbriars. In the " Rosarians'
86 Roses for Amateurs.
Year-Book " for 1892 the late Lord Penzance described the
manner in which he had undertaken his experiments, and he
told some curious facts which were elicited in the course of
his efforts. He found, for instance, that when the Sweetbriar
is used as the mother plant the progeny all retain the sweet-
scented foliage, while when other Roses are hybridised with
it, it is not so. The best way to utilise them is by forming a
hedge or covering a fence with them, and also by budding
them as Standards and allowing them to have perfect freedom
of growth, only slightly shortening the long shoots as occasion
requires ; they thus form pleasing objects in the shrubbery or
on the lawn, while the fragrance of their foliage makes them
especially grateful. They are mostly single, though some
of them have two rows of petals. Good varieties are Amy
Robsart, Anne of Geierstein, Flora M'lvor, Hebe's Lip,
Janet's Pride, Lady Penzance, Lord Penzance, Meg
Merrilies, and Rose Bradwardine. After the first spring,
when they should be pruned somewhat hard, nothing beyond
the removal of dead and useless wood is called for.
Macartney Roses (Rosa bracteata).
Somewhat tender Roses, requiring the shelter of a warm
wall, and calling for scarcely any pruning. Marie Leonida,
Rosa Lucida, and its double form are all worth culti-
vating.
Moss Roses (Rosa centifolia muscosa).
There is no Rose which is a more general favourite than
the Moss Rose ; and, in truth, when in bud, it is most lovely.
It is easily grown, and, where room can be afforded, there is
no better way than that of growing it in a bed, pegged down.
The long shoots being laid down, other shoots are thrown up
from the axils, and a profusion of blossom is obtained ; while
Gladioli may be inserted amongst them, which will show their
foliage and flowers after the Roses have finished. It is
Classification of Garden Roses. 87
advisable where the soil is light to have these Roses on
their own roots, thereby avoiding the vexatious suckers ; but
where the soil is heavy, they are better worked on the Briar.
Like other Roses, they will be improved by a good mulching
in November, and this may be lightly forked in in February.
Gloire des Polyantha, an excellent dwarf variety for beds and edges.
When they are grown in the border, the same treatment may
be applied ; but although there are differences of opinion on
the subject, we believe that they require hard pruning.
Excellent varieties are Blanche Moreau, Comtesse de
Murinais, De Meaux, Gloire des Mousseuses, Lanei, Little
Gem, White Bath, Crested, Gracilis, and Celina.
8S Roses for Amateurs.
Musk R^oses (Rosa moschata).
As the name suggests, these Roses are characterised by a
musk-like odour. They are rapid-growing, requiring scarcely
any pruning. The flowers are borne in clusters. The follow-
ing are desirable : Princesse de Nassau and Rivers' Musk.
Polyantha Roses (Rosa poly antha).
A beautiful section containing both Dwarf and Climbing
varieties. Indeed, to this belongs the beautiful Crimson
Leuchtstern (Polyantha), bright rose, with white eye, single flower;
resembles the well-known Crimson Rambler in habit.
Rambler. Of the Dwarfs, Anna Marie de Montravel, Gloire
des Polyantha (see illustration), Aschenbrodel, Clothilde
Soupert, Leonie Lamesch, Ma Paquerette, Perle d'Or, and
Schneewitchen are excellent. In the Climbing section,
besides Crimson Rambler, there are Aglaia, Claire Jacquier,
Euphrosyne, Grandi flora, Leuchtstern (see illustration), and
Thalia. Little pruning is required in either section beyond
Classification of Garden Roses. 89
shortening the tips of the strong shoots, and cutting out the
weak and exhausted wood of the Climbers.
Provence Roses (Rosa centifolia).
Delightful Roses that need to be closely pruned.
Desirable varieties are : Cabbage, Commandant Beaurepaire,
Crested, and Unique.
Raman as Roses (Rosa rugosa).
For hedges and shrubberies these are well adapted, being
admired alike for their flowers and brilliant " heps." No
pruning beyond the removal of useless wood is needed after
the first spring. Of varieties the following may be recom-
mended : Alba, Atropurpurea, Blanc Double de Coubert,
Mme. Georges Bruant, Nova Zembla, Fimbriata, Conrad F.
Meyer, and Repens Alba. Though the beautiful " heps " are
quite as decorative as the flowers, yet they are badly attacked
by birds unless some preventive measures be taken.
Bentley's Quassia preparation is as good as anything to spray
on the plants.
Scotch Roses (Rosa spinosissima).
Very thorny Roses, needing no pruning after the first
season. Stamvell Perpetual is one of the earliest as well
as one of the latest to flower.
Wichuraiana (Lucia:) Hybrids.
A comparatively new section, and a most useful one, the
varieties being adapted for banks, arches, pergolas, or for
pegging down in beds. No pruning is necessary. Dorothy
Perkins, Eliza Robichon, Gardenia, Hiawatha, Manda's
Triumph, Pink Roamer, and Rene Andre, are all to be
recommended. If a further selection be needed of these
distinctive Roses, then we would suggest Lady Gay,
Wichuraiana Rubra, Auguste Barbier, Edmund Proust,
and Jersey Beauty.
90 Roses for Amateurs.
Rose Friends and Foes.
Few plants, and certainly none that may be regarded as
universally popular, suffer like the Rose from the unwelcome
attention of pests. To give anything like a complete
enumeration would need a volume : all that is possible
here is to deal with what may be rightly regarded as the
worst and to furnish either preventive or remedial
measures. It is scarcely necessary to add that, belonging
as the insect and other pests do to widely -different Orders,
there is no preparation that is suited for all : each must
really be dealt with individually. And similarly with
regard to the fungi. A moment's reflection, so far as most
animal pests are concerned, should suffice to show that a
preparation that might with benefit be employed against an
insect that chews would be of little avail against one that
sucks — the caterpillars of the Sawflies and the widely-
prevalent and numerous species of Aphides are excellent
examples of the two sections. There are many others. To
those who appreciate good decorative flowers, or who
require show specimens, it is absolutely necessary that the
plants be kept free from pests of all kinds. As
an alphabetical enumeration of these under the two
headings proposed would seem to be the one tending to
facility of reference this has been adopted.
So accustomed are we to regard as harmful, and with truth,
the majority of insects found in the garden that we are apt
to lose sight of the comparative few that are working in the
interest of man. It is with the idea of assisting in the pre-
servation of these latter that we would briefly refer to the
way that many of the worst enemies of the Rose are held in
check by certain insects that often, being found side by side
with the pests, are liable to be destroyed.
Apart from the actual insecticide or fungicide employed,
there is another point that is too frequently overlooked as
of little importance — namely, the spraying agent. This is
Rose Friends and Foes. 91
a great mistake. The object of the operator should be to
cover the plant with a fine mist-like spray, and not to leave
small " pools " of water on the foliage. White's Abol
Syringe with spraying attachments is an excellent appliance
that is within the reach of everyone who can afford to
grow Roses.
Animal.
Ants.
Almost invariably found wherever Aphides appear, these
industrious creatures must be sought for and destroyed.
as they inflict not a little injury on the flowers, alike when
expanded and in the bud. The nests should also be got
rid of if in an accessible place. White's Superior Abol is
excellent for this.
Earwigs.
There can be little doubt that these familiar insects are
injurious to Rose-flowers, in which they frequently remain
concealed during the day. Trapping by means of rolls of
crumpled paper, old dusters, and the like, placed on the
trees in the evening and visited the next morning, is the
best means of thinning them down. The traps should be
opened over a vessel of water, into which the creatures will
drop.
Eelworms (Anguillulida).
On account of their small size and abundance in soils
used for potting these creatures may readily be introduced.
Or, again, they may actually be present in the roots of
newly-planted Roses. We therefore advocate that all Rose-
roots should be carefully examined, and if any present to
the eye an appearance of distortion they should be rejected.
Preventive measures, as regards potting-soil, should always
be taken by having it stacked for a considerable time before-
hand, and arranging between each layer a good sprinkling
92 Roses for Amateurs.
of mustard dross if it can be procured. Kainit, similarly
treated, might also prove effectual. As Eehvorms are barely
visible to the unaided eye, the soil will need to be carefully
examined. In form, as the popular name suggests, they
resemble eels. Each extremity of the body is pointed, and
the creature measures just about a millimetre.
Frog Hopper (Typhlocyba Rosce).
Related to the Aphides, these disgusting-looking
creatures, at . any rate in the larval state when they are
surrounded by the protective secretion that has given rise to
the popular name of " Cuckoo Spit," prove weakening to
Roses if present in any numbers. Bentley's Quassia
Solution, if applied early in the season, will make the bushes
distasteful to the insects. Gardo and White's Abol may also
be usefully applied. The perfect insects have marvellous
leaping powers, and are seldom identified by the Rosarian.
The larvae are helpless when the protective covering is
removed.
Gall-Flies.
Several species of Gall Fly of the genus Rhodites make
most conspicuous galls on wild and cultivated Roses ; but
it is a moot point whether or not any great amount of harm
is done by their presence. Still, the galls are such well-
known objects, particularly the large Bedeguar one, that
those interested in Roses are, sooner or later, almost
certain to make its acquaintance. We have, therefore,
deemed it advisable briefly to refer to the interesting little
insects responsible for such a structure as the Bedeguar.
This is well shown in the illustration. The grubs actually
responsible for the "galls" live in the "cells" shown in
the section of gall in the illustration ; they also become
pupae therein, and finally emerge as black insects of
the form shown. Another species, R. centi folia, makes
Rose Friends and Foes.
93
galls on the foliage of certain cultivated Roses ; but
here, again, we are unable to trace any appreciable
Galls and Insects of Rhodites Rosa:, showing (I) Entire Bedeguar
Gall; (2) Bedeguar, cut open; (3) Grub, natural size; (4)
Head of Grub, magnified ; (5) Pupa, magnified; (6) Insect,
magnified.
harm to the plants. The Bedeguar galls should be cut
out and burnt if their presence is considered objection-
able.
94
Roses for Amateurs.
Greenfly (Aphides].
Three or four species of Aphis infest Roses, causing
alike by their abstraction of sap and by their blocking up
the breathing-pores of the leaves wide-
spread damage. Being sucking insects,
it is useless to attempt to combat them
by employing the poisons recommended
for chewing insects, like Sawfly larvae.
Gardo, Abol, and V2 Fluid may all be
effectually used ; while hot water (three
gallons) to which is added a small piece
of soft soap (the size of a walnut)
previously melted in a little water, stirring
carefully, will serve to keep the pests at
bay until more radical measures can be
adopted. The illustration shows one of
the commonest of Aphis species found
on Roses. It is much magnified, as may
be gathered from the line at the side showing the natural
length of the insect.
Hover-Flies.
Belonging to the family Syrphidce (order Diptera) are
certain very familiar Flies from their habit of hovering over
flowers and from their Bee- or Wasp-like appearance. The
larvae of many of these are extremely useful to the Rose-
grower, as they feed entirely upon the Aphides, and their
appetite seems well-nigh insatiable. They are maggot-like
creatures, having leech-like movements — that is, they are able
to contract or to lengthen the body at will. The body tapers
considerably, the fore-part being pointed. The movements of
these larvae may be watched as they stretch out the head to
seize, and eventually to suck dry, the unlucky Aphis. All
Syrphids found on plants should be carefully preserved.
Rosae)-
Rose Friends and Foes. 95
Ichneumon Flies.
Quite a number of species of the Ichneumonidce render
splendid service to the Rose-cultivator by reason of their
parasitic habits. As larvae they live inside certain Lepido-
pterous larvae, thus tending to preserve the balance in Nature.
The " ichneumoned " caterpillars of the White Butterflies
are objects that are familiar to almost every schoolboy.
Ichneumon Flies belong to the order Hymenoptera, thus
being allied to Bees, Ants, and Wasps.
June Bugs and Cockchafers (Phyllopertha horticola and
Melolontha vulgaris).
As in the case of the Rose-chafer, the Bracken Clocks
(P. horticola) are addicted to the gnawing of the organs of
Female and Male Cockchafers (Melolontha vulgaris).
reproduction of Roses, and are most objectionable on that
account. They resemble small Cockchafers (M . vulgaris).
This latter is no less injurious, as the perfect insects
will attack the leafage of Roses ; while the larvae feed on
the roots of many plants. Beetles, so well known, do not
call for any description, more especially as we give an
excellent illustration of the larger insects — the Cockchafers.
During dull weather the creatures may be shaken into an
opened umbrella and destroyed. They are on the wing
during May, June, and July, and the June Bugs may often
be captured in numbers by the aid of a butterfly-net.
96 Roses for Amateurs.
La.cewing Flies and Hemerobius.
Though probably as common as the Ladybirds, the
useful Lacewing Flies, clad in garments of resplendent
green, and provided with eyes of the loveliest golden-yellow,
that look like miniature precious stones, are seldom recog-
nised except by entomologists. Lacewing Flies are slender-
looking creatures, whose appearance and general structure are
not likely to impress the ordinary observer with the fact that
they are capable of rendering excellent aid in the garden.
Yet such they can and undoubtedly do, and, moreover, like
the Ladybirds, are useful alike as perfect insects and as
larvae (they have more than a superficial resemblance to Lady-
bird grubs). Lacewing Flies belong to the order Neuroptera.
Though beautiful to look at, the smell they emit is most
objectionable. Indeed, on the latter account, they are known
by the popular and appropriate name of Stink Flies.
The eggs, too, are noteworthy, being found at the end
of long stalks. Usually, the Lacewing Fly larvae hunt the
" Greenfly," and suck them dry by means of some
peculiarly constructed " spears," leaving the dry bodies.
Occasionally, however, they clothe themselves with the skins
of their victims, much after the manner of certain Hemerobius
larvae. These latter, as well as the Lacewing Flies (Chryso-
pits), larvae, and stalked eggs, should be carefully preserved.
Ladybirds.
These Beetles, in both the perfect and the larval stage,
are of the greatest benefit to the Rose-cultivator, as they
destroy vast quantities of Greenfly. Be-
fore, therefore, syringing a Rose-bush
against Aphides, it would be well to see
whether any of the very useful Lady-
Grub of Seven-spotted birds and their larvae are there. The
Ladybird (enlarged). Beetles themselves will be readily
recognised, though their larvae (see illustration) may not be.
Rose Friends and Foes.
97
Leaf -cutting Bee (Megachile).
To this genus belongs a species that lays the Rose foliage
under contribution for the provision of its nest. Most
people have seen the result of the operation of this clever
insect-architect, though they know little or nothing about
the creature responsible
for the condition. The
Marechal Niel Rose is
particularly resorted to
by the female for the
wherewithal to furnish
her nest. The pieces
of leaf are removed
with mathematical ac-
curacy, and the opera-
tion is performed in a
few seconds, the insect
poising herself the
while. The accompany-
ing illustration shows
the disfigured Rose foli-
age. Nothing can be
done to prevent the bees
from cutting the foliage
— at least nothing that Rose Foliage Attacked by Leaf-cutting Bees.
we are acquainted with,
and we have tried quassia solution sprayed on the foliage
and the planting of strong-smelling subjects in the near
vicinity of such varieties as are usually attacked.
Moths.
Like the Sawflies, the species of Moths (or rather their
larvae) inflicting damage upon Rose-trees are extremely
numerous. Some are very large, and their depredations so
98
Roses for Amateurs.
severe that they can be readily traced ; others are amongst
the smallest of all lepidopterous larvae, difficult to find and
still more difficult to classify. In the first-named category
must be classed the Buff-Tip Moth (Pygcera buce-phala).
The Moth is so well known that with the illustration given
no description is necessary. The caterpillar is of a dull
yellowish colour, elegantly transversely banded with
orange, and also having some blackish lines. On account of
Buff-tip Moth (Male), Pupa and Larva.
their large size the caterpillars soon do a lot of mischief.
These may be shaken from the trees on to sticky paper
arranged beneath; or their food-plant may be readily
poisoned.
Other large-sized caterpillars that are equally objection-
able are those of the Gold-Tail Moth (Liparis aurifttia),
a somewhat general feeder, but particularly partial to
Rosaceous plants. As may be judged from the illustration,
it is a striking insect, and in colour a combination of
black, red, and white, with large tufts of whitish hairs
proceeding from the middle row of tubercles. It is double-
Rose Friends and Foes,
99
brooded. Nor must the Lackey Moth (Clisiocampa neustria)
be forgotten, for although not now as common as it at one
time was, owing to the war that has been waged upon it, yet
it is sufficiently so to constitute a pest where it occurs. Like
the last species, the larva is a conspicuous insect ; it is
reddish-orange colour on the upper surface, with a white
stripe down the cen-
tre of the back, a
bluish-grey head, and
at the sides orange-
red, blue, and black.
In the young stage
the insects are less
showily marked, and
at first live socially
in a common web. It
is then that they
are readily destroyed ;
while the vigilant
Rose-cultivator would
probably have noticed
the ' ' rings ' ' of eggs
disposed around the
shoots when the tree
was bare of foliage,
and forthwith burnt
them.
Closely allied to the Gold-Tail Moth is the Vapourer
(Orgyia antiqua), whose tufted and still more strik-
ing caterpillars, with their paint-brush-like tufts, often
do a lot of damage to Rose foliage. It is very
common in gardens, feeds on a variety of trees and shrubs,
and is a most unwelcome visitor in any garden. The
larva is the " Hop Cat " of the hop-fields. This is one of
the Moths having wingless spider-like females, and therefore
H 2
Caterpillar of Gold-tail Moth (Liparis auriflua)
ioo Roses for Amateurs.
grease-banding as practised against similar pests on fruit-
trees might be tried as a preventive measure. Then we have
a near relation of the Old Lady (Mania Maura), whose larvae
are extremely fond of our choice Auriculas, in the Gothic
(Ncenia typica). When young it is gregarious like the Lackey
Moth already referred to, and it is then that it can be me t
Larva of Vapourer Moth (Orgyia antiqua).
effectually got rid of. Later, when its large greyish -yellow,
brown-freckled caterpillars are on the wander, they are more
difficult to deal with.
Belonging to the Sub-family Notodontida are two exceed-
ingly common Moths whose caterpillars favour the Rose —
Hydriomena badiata and //. nigrofasciaria (derivata). Both
caterpillars are green, that of the former species being dark
Rose Friends and Foes. 101
olive or purplish, with conspicuous white dots, a yellowish
line in the vicinity of the black spiracles, and an orange
or purplish-brown head ; that of the latter being pale green,
much slenderer, and having a triangular mark below the head
and on the back five diamond-like markings. These cater-
pillars are well over an inch in length. The above-named
practically exhaust the larger caterpillars feeding upon the
Roses. To keep them in check one or other of the insecti-
cides named for Sawfly grubs may be requisitioned, combined
with hand-picking, tree-shaking over papers smeared with an
adhesive, &c.
We now come to a still more difficult group — those that
feed in spun-together and rolled-up leaves, and for which
finger and thumb must be used to give them their quietus
while in their comparatively safe retreats. Of these Caccecia
(Tortrix) podana (pyrastrana), Pandemis (Tortrix) ribeana,
Acalla (T.) variegana, Eucosma, ochroleucana, Nepticula
centifolielld (makes long galleries in the leaves), and Tortrix
Bergmanniana may be named as among the worst. Some
may be found both in the open and under glass from April
to June. To describe each one individually would hardly
be worth the space. Those interested might refer to some
work on Lepidoptera, and particularly the section devoted to
Tortrices. Perhaps if the trees were sprayed early with
Gardo, White's Abol, or with XL All insecticide this would
act as a deterrent ; but personally we have not found any
such measures of much avail.
Then there is the Winter Moth (Cheimatobia brumatd),
which is such a pest on fruit-trees, and against which grease-
banding in October would seem to be the most practical
preventive measure. The ' ' grease ' ' would have to be
renewed as often as it became ineffectual. The species
is a most abundant one and ubiquitous ; the caterpillars
will, if not prevented, defoliate a tree in a comparatively
short time.
102
Roses for Amateurs.
Rabbits.
In some gardens Rabbits are extremely troublesome, and
great is the havoc that they will inflict upon a bed of Tea
Roses. The partiality of the rodents for this particular
class of Rose is well known. Probably some of the
" smears/' as used for the larger trees, might be usefully
employed. Trapping and means of prevention of their gain-
ing access are all that can be suggested.
Red Spider (Tetranychus telarius).
Alike under glass and in the open these Spider-like mites
are most troublesome. Outdoors they are usually found
during spells of dry hot
weather. If, however, the
foliage is kept well syringed,
using a weak solution of
Kerosene Emulsion, the foes
may be kept at bay. Under
glass Gishurst Compound
will prove effectual. The
mites are only with diffi-
culty seen by the unaided
eye; but the yellowish and
generally weak - looking
foliage should betray the
presence of the creature.
The much-magnified illus-
tration gives an excellent
idea of its form. If the
under -surf aces of such foli-
age as ha.s turned prema-
Red Spider (Tetranychus tciarius). turely yellow be carefully
(Magnified 130 diameters.) examined, the chances are
that Red Spider will be found responsible for the mischief.
Further, that a dense web has been spun over the surface, in
Rose Friends and Foes. 103
which are enclosed eggs and numbers of the mites them-
selves in varying stages of their existence.
R^ose-beetle or Rosechafer (Cetonia auratd).
So brilliant in colour and so beautiful in structure is
this insect that we scarcely like ruthlessly to condemn
it. Yet from the
damage it does to the
sexual organs of Roses,
&c., it certainly de-
serves to be regarded
as a pest. It is one of
the Beetles that anyone
may readily identify,
so distinctive are its
colour and markings ; #•
While, like the majority Rose-beetle or Rosechafer.
of its relatives, it may (Cetonia aurala).
be known when about to fly by the half-expanded instead of
wholly expanded wing-cases (see illustration). This is a well-
known characteristic of certain Cetoniidce. Green of the most
brilliant colour adorns its wing-cases ; while these are as if
burnished with the finest gold. Further, they are orna-
mented with a number of impressed dots, some wavy and
whitish marks, and lines, all of which add to the beauty.
Contrary to the usual order of things, the grubs (always
found as if bent in a semicircle) are not destructive to the
plants on which the Beetles are usually found; they pass
their larval state in decaying wood. Hand-picking is the
only remedy.
Sawflies.
Whether regarded by their numbers or the damage
they inflict upon Roses the Sawflies must be classed
as amongst the worst pests that the Rose-cultivator has to
104 Roses for Amateurs.
contend against. Though the majority are leaf-feeders and
fairly easily disposed of, there are some few that feed
concealed in such a way as not readily to be seen or dealt
with, while there is at least one that is occasionally met
with that lives in the pith of shoots. Of the leaf-feeders
proper one of the worst depredators is the Caddice Sawfly
(Lyda inanita), whose yellowish-green, red-lined, black-
spotted larva elaborates from its food-plant a most ingenious
case in which it feeds concealed, much after the fashion of
the Caddice-grub of our ditches and certain species of
Clothes Moth. Equally common and quite as destructive is
the Rose Slug (Eriocampa rosa), a sluggish, yellowish-
green creature that destroys the epidermis of the leaf,
causing it to die. When full-fed it becomes a pupa in a
cocoon in the soil.
Still keeping to very common species we have Blenno-
campa pusilla, a short, thickish green larva, with a brownish
head. It is one of those species that live a more or less
concealed life, beneath a turned-down leaflet. The pupal
state is also passed in the soil. Cladins pectinicornis is not
only a fairly common insect but is also double-brooded. The
larva is deep green, warted, and hairy. It may be found
feeding on the under-surface of the leaflets in the vicinity
of the midrib. The pupal state is passed in a cocoon between
leaves, as is also the larval state of the autumn brood. Even
more numerous and more catholic as regards its tastes is
Clddius Padi, which frequents fruit as well as flower
gardens, eating holes in the foliage.
A distinctive and very hurtful species is Etnphytus
cinctus, whose larvae may often be seen feeding, in the
characteristic attitude of the species, on the edges of the
leaflets with the tail extremity curled over; while, having
regaled themselves, they curl up contented on the under-sur-
face of the leaflets. The caterpillar is green above, and has
shiny white tubercles, the sides being greyish. Frequently
Rose Friends and Foes. 105
these larvae enter the shoots, therein to assume the pupal
state. When this is the case, which is betokened by the dying
away of the shoot, it should be cut off and burnt.
To the genus Hylotoma belong several species all more
or less destructive to the foliage of Roses, but none so
objectionable as the bluish-green larvae of //. roses (see illus-
tration), which are depicted in very characteristic attitudes.
Many Sawfly larvae on being disturbed appear to assume an
offensive attitude and sometimes contort the body violently.
The insect on the left shows the body erected as if on the
defensive. There are two broods of this species— summer
Larvae of Rose-leaf Sawfly (Hylotoma rosae).
and autumn. The pupal state is passed beneath the soil in
cocoons.
The above-named constitute the chief of the Sawflies
affecting Roses. No mention has been made of the perfect
insects, as little if anything can be done to prevent the
females from ovipositing. As regards treatment, those
species that feed openly may be dealt with by poisoning the
food-plant with Paris Green zoz. to 20 gallons of water. It
is best to get this very virulent poison in paste form. As,
too, Roses differ markedly in the texture of their foliage, it
will be well to try the effect on a small portion. In all cases
io6 Roses for Amateurs.
the arsenite is best sprayed on in a fine mist. It will also
be necessary constantly to stir the insecticide. When a
preparation that kills by contact is preferred, then Gardo,
White's Abol, or Kerosene Emulsion used in the proportions
suggested by the makers should prove effectual. In addition,
a piece of paper covered with a sticky composition may be laid
beneath an infested tree, which may then be gently shaken,
when the insects will fall on the adhesive, and thence they
may be collected and killed. For the pith-feeding species
the shoots that die away should be burnt.
Scale (Kermes rosce).
Under glass this species must be regarded as a pest. It
takes up its abode on the bark, and plants badly attacked
soon begin to show signs of declining health. If one can
note it while on the wander the creatures are much more
readily dealt with than when the " scales " are formed that
cover the young generations. So firmly are they then
attached that a brush is required to remove them. Kerosene
Emulsion of a strength suited to the plant or plants being
dealt with, applied in the evening, will effect a clearance if
persisted in.
Thrips.
Small and inconspicuous though these insects are, the
amount of damage they are capable of inflicting upon Rose
foliage is out of all proportion to their size. When the
under-surfaces of the foliage are much infested the leaves
will appear as sickly as if attacked by Red Spider, while
the flowers are covered with minute rusty-looking spots. If,
however, the house in which the Roses are kept is periodically
fumigated with one of the vaporising insecticides the attacks
should be of a negligible quantity. So minute are the
creatures that a description would not enable a novice to
differentiate the parts by means of the unaided eye. Still,
Rose Friends and Foes. 107
the general conformation is well known, and the insects could
scarcely be confused with any others that infest Roses.
Weevils.
Rose-growers are often puzzled to discover the cause of
much injury to buds, young shoots, &c. By inspect-
ing the trees at night with the aid of a lantern the authors
thereof will be revealed — Weevils. The species that we have
found is the Clay-Coloured Vine Weevil (Otiorrhynchus
Clay-coloured Weevil Black Vine Weevil
(Otiorrhynchus picipes). (Otiorrhynchus sulcatus).
picipes), a most objectionable Beetle in the garden, and
second only in regard to its omnivorous propensities to a
near ally, the Black Vine Weevil (O. sulcatus). We
give illustrations of these two species, as they are so
commonly met with and yet might be so readily over-
looked as harmless. The colour of each is suggested by the
name, and no description is called for. Paris Green, as. sug-
gested against the Sawflies, may be tried ; but the better plan
is to arrange sticky papers beneath the trees, and at night
visit the latter with a light. This will so alarm the insects
io8 Roses for Amateurs.
that they will drop to the ground on to the adhesive, whence
they may be collected and destroyed.
Occasionally, too, we have found some pretty greenish
metallic Weevils belonging to the genus Phyllobius upon
Rose-bushes; but we have not been able to determine
whether they are hurtful or not. Still, knowing the damage
they do to fruit-trees by gnawing the foliage and the buds,
we have destroyed them as " undesirables." P. viridicollis
is the species we have oftenest seen. This has green scales
on the thorax and a black shiny body. The "beak" of
these Weevils is short and thick, not prolonged as in some
species. They may often be shaken from the trees in the
morning.
Vegetable.
Bla.ck Spot (Actinonema rosce).
In this we have a very characteristic fungus disease,
and one that seems considerably on the increase. This is
probably due to the fact that very feeble efforts are made
to combat it. The popular name above adopted gives a
clue to the chief feature of the disease — a blotching of the
foliage. At first the spots are very irregular, but later they
assume a more definite form and increase considerably in
size. In bad attacks, when no effort is made to stay them,
the leaves yellow prematurely and fall. Where only a few
of the leaves are involved these may be removed and burnt.
Where, however, a tree was attacked by the fungus the
previous year, much the better plan is to take preventive
measures by spraying in spring with a weak solution of
Bordeaux Mixture. The disease occurs under glass as well
as in the open.
Mildew (Sphacrotheca pannosa).
As long as we have any trustworthy records of the Rose,
this disease has apparently been one of the banes of the
Rose Friends and Foes. 109
cultivator. Little by way of description is needed to enable
even the veriest amateur to identify the species in one stage
— namely, by the powdery appearance it gives to the parts
affected. Many, however, seem to think that it is a leaf
trouble only : this is a mistake, as shoots, buds, and fruits
alike are involved. As the disease progresses, however, the
white powdery appearance is succeeded by a velvety mould
of a yellowish colour; and this in turn gives place to dark
(almost black) points in the mycelium.
Some Roses are more prone to this disease than others ;
those least affected are the Hybrid Teas, Teas, and Noisettes ;
and it is present on plants in the open and under
glass. Preventive measures should be taken directly the
disease is noted. These should consist of flowers of sulphur
mixed with one-third its bulk of slaked lime; or, better
still, of sulphide of potassium (liver of sulphur), zoz. to
3gall. of water. This causes no unsightly look as in the case
of the powder sulphur and lime, though under glass it will
affect the paint. Severe attacks under glass are often
induced (not caused) by the conditions under which Roses are
often grown. Many amateurs seem afraid to allow a free
air circulation, and the plants are so weakened that they are.
in just the condition to take any disease to which they are
liable. Under glass the Sulphur Vaporiser as sold by Messrs.
Campbell would prove useful in restricting the disease.
Further preventive measures consist in removing all
affected parts and burning them before the second stage in
the life-history of the fungus is reached, as then the spores
distributed by various agencies invariably increase the area
of infection unless the sulphur remedies are freely employed.
Rose Brand.— See Rose Rust,
Rose Rust (Phragmidium subcorticiuni).
Whether we regard this and Rose Brand as two phases in
the life-history of one disease matters but little. It is usual
no Roses for Amateurs.
to refer to the spring form by the popular name above
adopted and the one produced later in summer as Rose
Brand, when the orange patches of the former season have
deepened owing to the production of uredospores. Yet a
further stage marks the progress of this disease — namely,
when the resting spores (teleutospores) are formed in the
shape of black dots readily seen on the under surface of the
foliage. When once the disease is seen the branches should
be sprayed with weak Bordeaux Mixture. This will stay its
progress ; the next season Mr. Massee suggests the use of a
sulphate of copper solution (2oz. of copper in 3gall. of water)
before the buds expand.
INDEX.
A.
Acalla variegans, 101
Acme labels, 31
shade, 58
Actinonema rosa, 108
Anguillulidce, 91
Ants, 91
Aphides, 94
Arches for Roses, 80
Arranging Roses for exhibition,
63
Artificial manures, 60
Austrian Briars, 83
Ayrshire Roses, 83
B.
Baker, Mr. George, n
Banksian Roses, 83
Bedeguar galls, 93
Beds, advantages of, 31
preparing, n
Bees, Leaf-cutting, 97
Beetle, Rose, 103
Bennett, Mr. Henry, 66
Black Spot, 1 08
Black Vine Weevil, 107
Bleeding after pruning, 33
Blenno cam-pa -pusilla, 104
Blossoms, cutting for exhibi-
tion, 61
Blush Tea-scented Roses, 38
Bourbon Roses, 84
Boursault Roses, 85
Boxes, exhibition, 60
Bracken clocks, 95
Brand, 109
Briar cutting, 5
advantages for Teas, 5
root disposition, 5
Briar seedling, 7
cutting, 7
planting, 30
roots of, 5
Briar standard, 3
Bud, binding, 19
inserting, 19
taking the, 18
Budding, 17
best time for, 19
methods, 18
prickles test, 19
stocks, 17
time, 1 8
weather for, 19
Bud-grafting, 21
Buff-Tip Moth, 98
112
Index.
C.
Caddice Sawfly, 104
Cetoniidce, 103
Chafer, Rose, 103
Cheimatobia brumata, 101
China Roses, 2
Chinese Roses, 85
Chryso-pus, 96
Cladius Padi, 104
•pectinicornis, 104
Clay-coloured Vine Weevil, 107
Cleft-grafting, 24
Climbing Roses, 31, 57, 78
Cli si o cam-pa neustria, 99
Cockchafers, 95
Cross-fertilisation, 65
Cultivation, 8
Cuttings, 21
advantages of, 21
after-treatment, 23
frame for, 22
potting off, 22
preparing for stocks, 7
season for, 21, 22
selecting, 22
striking outside, 22
D.
Damask Roses, 85
Decorative varieties, 66
Disbudding, 36, 57
Division, 24
Dwarf Roses, 3, 13, 31
v. standards, 3
E.
Earwigs, 91
Eelworms, 91
Em-phytus cinctus, 104
Eriocampa rosa, 104
Eucosma ochroleucana, 101
Evergreen Roses, 85
Exhibiting, 57
apparatus required, 60
Exhibiting boxes, 60, 62
cutting the blossoms, 61
disbudding, 51
feeding the plants, 58
position of flowers in
boxes, 64
setting up flowers, 62
shading, 57
" spares," 65
tubes and wires for, 60
varieties for, 66
" wiring " the flowers, 63
Exhibitions, 2
holders for roses, 63
tube, Frank Cant, 63
Exhibitors' Roses, 74
F.
Feeding the plants, 58
Fertilisers, 51
Flies, Hover, 94
Ichneumon, 95
Lacewing, 96
Stink, 96
Flower-buds, removal of, 36
Forcing, 53
preparatory work, 53
succession of plants, 53
temperature, 53
ventilation, 53
Frames for cuttings, 22
Friends and Foes, 91
Frog-hopper, 92
Frost, protecting trees against,
32
G.
Gall-flies, 92
Gallica Roses, 2, 13
Galls, Bedeguar, 93
Gardeners' Chronicle quoted.
21
" Garden" Roses, 76
enumeration of, 83-89
ephemeral nature of, 76
Index.
Glass cultivation of Roses, 46
beds, preparation of, 49
choice of a house, 48
extension of the system,
46
forcing, 53
manures, 49
planted-out system v. pots,
47
planting, 49
pot system, 51
pruning, 51
varieties, 47, 49, 54
Gold-tail Moth, 98
Gothic moth, 100
Grafting, 24
Grease-banding against moths,
101
Greenfly, 94
II.
Half -standards, 31
Hedges, Sweetbriar, 10
Ilemerobius, 96
" Heps," treatment of, 16
History, i
Holder, Forster's exhibition,
63
'• Hop Cat," 99
Houses for Roses, 48
Hover-flies, 94
Hybridising, 17
Hybrid Perpetuals, 2, 25, 57, 67,
75, 76
pruning, 34
Hybrid Sweetbriars, 15, 85
Hybrid Teas, 43, 73, 76
definition of, 43
origin, 43
outdoor, 37
planting, 25, 46
pruning, 35, 45
varieties, 56, 73
Ilydriomena badiata, 100
derivata, 100
nigrofasciaria, 100
llylotoma, 105
rosce, 105
Ichneumon Flies, 95
Introductory, i
June Bugs, 95
K.
Kennes rosce, ic6
L.
Lacewing Flies, 96
Lackey Moth, 99
Ladybirds, 96
Seven-spotted, 96
Leaf-buds, rubbing out, 36
Leaf-cutting Bees, 97
Li-paris aurif.ua, 98
Lyda inanita, 104
M.
Macartney Roses, 86
Maiden blooms, 4
Manetti cuttings, 7
introduction of, 4
planting, 30
prevalence of suckers, 5
stock, 4
Mania Maura, 100
Manures, 27, 59, 60
Mawley, Mr. £.,35
Megachile, 97
Melolontlia vulgaris, 95
Mildew, 10, 37, 49, ic8
Monthly Roses, 2, 85
Moss for exhibition boxes, 60
Moss Roses, 2, 13, 86
Moths, 97
Musk Rose, 37, 38, 88
Index.
N.
N cenia ty-pica, 100
National Rose Society, 2, 9, 45,
66
Ne-pticula centi-foliella, 101
Nododontidce, 100
Noisettes, 37, 57, 71, 75, 76
O.
Old Lady, 100
Orgyia antiqua, 99
Otiorrhynchus -pici-pes , 107
sulcatus, 107
Outdoor cultivation of Teas and
Hybrid Teas, 37
Own-root Roses, 25, 31
P.
Pandemis ribeana, 101
Pedigree Roses, 65
Penzance, Lord, 85
Pergolas, 15, 79
Pests, 91
Phragmidium subcorticium, 109
Phyllo-pertha horticola, 95
Pillar Roses, 14, 78
Planting, 25, 30
after-treatment, 32
briar cutting, 30
briar seedling, 30
climbers, 31
dwarfs, 31
half-standards, 31
Hybrid Perpetuals, 25
Hybrid Teas, 25, 46
labels, 31
Manettis, 30
manures as surface-dress-
ing, 27
own-root Roses, 31
preparing the trees, 29
protection against frost, 32
removal of suckers, 30
standards, 31
Planting Teas, 25, 40
town Roses, 29
Plant lore, 2
Pochin, Rev. E. N., 18
Polyantha Roses, 88
Positions, 8
Pot Roses, 51
fertilisers for, 51
selecting, 51
soil, 51
Potting off cuttings, 22
Prince, Mr. George, 30, 38
Procuring stock, 25
Propagation, 15
budding, 17
bud-grafting, 21
cuttings, 21
division, 15, 24
grafting, 15, 24
layering, 15
seeds, 15, 16
suckers, 15, 25
Protecting Teas, 31
Provence Roses, 2, 89
Pruning, 33
diagrams, 34, 35
Hybrid Perpetuals, 34
Hybrid Teas, 35
late, 33
rules, 33
Teas, 35, 41, 45
under-glass Roses, 51, 52
" Puddling " roots, 27
Pygcsra buce-phala, 98
R.
Rabbits, 102
Ramanas Roses, 89
Red Spider, 102
Rhodites, 92
centi-folia, 92
rosa, 93
Rivers, Mr., 4
Roots, " puddling " at planting-
time, 26
Rosa bracteata, 86
Brunonis, 81
Index
Rosa centifolia, 88
centifolia muscosa, 86
indie a, 85
indica anemo nee flora, 81
Lucia, 89
lutea, 83
macrantha, 78
moschata, 38, 87
multiflora, 81
odorata, 37
•polyantha, 81, 88
•prcecox, 81
re~pens hybrida, 83
rugosa, 15, 79, 89
sem-perflorens, 85
sem-pervivens, 85
spinosissima, 25, 89
"Rosarian's Year-Book," 18, 85
Rose-arches, 80
Rose Beetle, 103
Rose Brand, 107
Rose Chafers, 95, 103
Rose-garden, forming, 8, 13
position, 10
shelter, 10
soil, ii
Rose Slug, 104
" Ros Rosarum," 2
Rust, 107
S.
Sawflies, 103
Caddice, 104
Scale, 106
Scotch Roses, 89
Secateurs, evils of, 34
Seed, raising Roses from, 16
Seven-spotted Ladybird, 96
Shading, 57
Shelters for Rose-garden, 10
Si-phono-phora roses, 94
Slug, Rose, 104
Smoke, ill-effects of, on Roses, 9
Soil, ii
condition at planting-time,
26
improving, 13
for pot Roses, 51
"Spare" blossoms for exhibi-
tion purposes, 65
Specialists in Rose cultivation,
32
S-pheerotheca -pannosa, 37, 108
Spot, Black, 108
Standards, 3, 31
Stink-flies, 96
Stocks, 3
making cuttings of, 7
planting, 17
Suckers, propagation by, 25
removal of, 30
Summer Roses, 2
Sweetbriar hedges, 10
Sweetbriars, Hybrid, 15, 85
Syrphidee, 94
T.
Tea Roses, 2, 71, 75, 76
after-cultivation, 40
as wall-coverers, 43
beds, 13
influence of climate on, 38.
origin, 38
outdoor, 37
planting, 25, 40
protecting heads of, 31
pruning, 35, 41
special cultivation, 40
varieties, 54, 71
Tetranychus telarius, 102
Thrips, 106
Tortrices, 101
Tortrix Sergmannzana, 101
•podana, 101
•pyrastrana, 101
ribeancti 101
variegana, 101
Town Roses, 29
Ty-phlocyba roses, 92
V.
Vapourer Moth, 99
Varieties, decorative, 66
n6
Index.
Varieties, exhibition, 66
for towns, 29
Ventilating Rose-houses, 53
W.
Wall Roses, 43, 82
Weather influences on budding,
'9
Wedge-grafting, 24
Weeping Roses, 4, 83
'Weevils, 107
Weevils, Black Vine, 107
Clay-coloured, 107
Whip-grafting, 24
Wichuraiana Roses, 4, 89
Winter Moth, 101
Roses, 53
"Wiring" Roses, 63
Y.
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Sporting Books, Illustrated. And their Values. Dealing with English
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Swimming for Women and Girls. A Handbook of Practical Instruction.
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Taxidermy, Practical. A Manual of Instruction to the Amateur in Collect-
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Positions prepared from photographs taken from life specially for the work.
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Tomato Culture for Amateurs. A Practical and very Complete Manual on
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Trapping, Practical : Being some Papers on Traps and Trapping for Vermin,
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In paper, price I/-, by pctt 1/2.
Yamp', S0™ *°v -A Practical Guide to the Accompaniment of Songs by the
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Vegetable Culture for Amateurs. Containing Concise Directions for the
S-l^r-1?11 of \egetablesmsmall Gardens so as to insure Good Crops
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Ventriloquism, Practical. A thoroughly reliable Guide to the Art of
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Yi9lin School, Practical, for Home Students. Instructions and Exercises
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Whist, Solo: Its Whys and Wherefores. A Progressive and Clear Method
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IHTild Sports in Ireland. Being Picturesque and Entertaining Descriptions of
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Window Ticket Writing. Containing full instructions on the Method of
Mixing and using the Various Inks, &c., required, Hints on Stencilling as
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Wood Carving for Amateurs. Full instructions for producing all the
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Wrestling. A Practical Handbook upon the Catch-hold and Graco-Roman
Styles of Wrestling ; a splendid system of Athletic Training. By PERCY LONG-
HURST, winner in the Light-weight Competition, G.G.S , 1899. Author of
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a Card or a Catalogue, One or
a Million,
LET US GIVE
YOU A PRICE
For we have one of the finest
equipped Printing Works in
the Kingdom.
Your work would be
well done, and delivered
TRUE TO TIME.
The
London & County
Printing Works,
Drury Lane,
London, W.C.
Telegrams: Bazaar, London.
Telephone: 3466, Gerrard.
LADY EVELYN COTTERELL'S Manager writes:
" Please forward at your earliest scwt. Biscuit Meal and scwt. Ground
Oats. I find my Chicks do not do on Biscuit Meal I eret off . . .
as they do on yours.
(Signed) "J. SMITH."
The REV. W. VERNER LONGE writes:
"Your Chick Feed is most satisfactory. Have not lost a single
chick from an incubator hatch of January 7th, though we've had deep
snow nearly ever since. Have now at a month old just begun to use
meal.
(Signed) "W. VERNER LONGE."
A. R. HARRIS, Esq., writes:
"Your Cooked Cereals are about the best mixture I have ever had for
Turkeys. Please send on another lot at once.
(Signed) ««A. R. HARRIS."
J.C PHIPP&C0
MORETOMARSH.GLOS,
TR.AIN YOUR. DOG
TO TAKE HIS
"SPRATT'S
BISCUIT
AVOID SWEETENED, SOFT, AND
MEDICATED FOODS
which cause indigestion, loss
of coat, and attendant evils.
The name of "SPR-ATT'S " on an article
is THE HALL-MAR.K OF QUALITY.
Ask your Tradesman for " SPRATT'S
and see you get them.
Send Postcard for Pamphlet on " COMMON-SENSE TREAT-
MENT OF CANINE PETS," to —
SPRATT'S PATENT,
24 and 25, Fenchurch Street, London, E.G.
YOU
surely have several things
that arc becoming just so much
lumber to you. and for which you
would like to find a purchaser.
You want many things that you do
not care to buy at first hand but which you
would liko to purchase secondhand, if in good
condition.
You appreciate sound, practical literary ar-
ticles that give just the information you should
find useful.
You are often wanting Expert advice on one
subjset or another- birds, books, brie a-brac,
or anything else.
You can get all this and more if you make
use of" THE BAZAAR, EXCHANGE AND MART" News-
paper.
You can buy, sell, or exchange ANYTHING
through it-
You will find in it Practical Articles
written bv EXPERTS in their several de-
partments.
PRICE 2d.
Of all Bookstalls and Newsagents, or direct by post
for 3d. in stamps from the
Offices: BAZAAR BUILDINGS. DRURY LANE.
LONDON. W.C.
HUTU'S SELECT
Strong bushes,
with splendid
fibrous roots.
The following
collections
of Roses are
strongly recom-
mended as being
good for
Cutting,
Garden
Decoration,
Or Exhibition,
and are such
as will
suc-
ceed
in al-
most
any soil or situa-
tion where Roses
can be grown.
Pull Descriptive
Catalogues of
Roses, Carnations,
Peonies, Clematis,
Dahlias, Herbaceous
Plants, Select Seeds,
and Home - Grown
Bulbs Post Free on
application.
COLLECTION C.
This Collection consists
of 12 very finest Hybiid
Tea Roses in cultivation.
All distinct, price los. 6d.
Carriage Paid for remit-
tance with Order.
COLLECTION D.
Contains 12 splendid Tea Roses, in-
cluding the finest new varieties in
cultivation, price 153. Carnage Paid
for remittance with Order.
The Floral Farms,
R. H. BATH, LTD., WISBECH
GENERAL LIBRARY
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA— BERKELEY
RETURN TO DESK FROM WHICH BORROWED
This book is due on the last date stamped below, or on the
date to which renewed.
Renewed books are subject to immediate recall.
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J»J*: SEP 911
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LD 21-1 OOm-1, '54 (1887816) 476
,YB 48542
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