Smithsonian-Bredin Society Islands Expedition, 1957 : manuscript on expedition by Waldo LaSalle Schmitt (unpublished)

THE SMITHSONIAN

BREDIN SOCIETY ISLANDS

EXPEDITION, 1957.

Shades of Captain Cook, of Herman Melville, of Typee, Omoo,
and Moby Dick; of Pierre Loti, Gaugin, Robert Louis Stevenson,

Jack London, James Norman Hall, and Charles Darv/in ahd the "Beagle’^
dtll these names n tinge , and many more, seemed to come alive when
Mr. Bredin proposed our going to the French Society Islands - -

Tahiti, Moorea, --i' *•. ""s-j Bora Bora — those romantiCj^

Isles- of Paradise in the far blue yonder of the
South Pacific.. All hold something beyond _^eams and wishful

thinking for the explorer, the scientlst> i^irriter, poet, artist,
or adventurer.

Although we left Vfeshington and the Museum quietly and

without fanfare, this Smithsonian expedition really went off
with a "bang" I No sooner had Dr, Thomas E. Bo^OTian, the expedition
copepodologist , and I foregathered for luncheon at his parent’s
home in San Francisco on tiiat March S2nd~— the day before the
departure of the "Mariposa” for the South Seas— than the city
"threw" the second most severe quake in the city’s recorded
seismic hsltory. This tremor registered 5.5 on the Richter
scale as compared with 8.25 ^or the catastrophic quake of April,

1906, just fifty-one years before, almost to the month.

live

The senior Bowmians on the sunny side of Market Street wligre

A

this v/ell-known thoroughfare passes along the southern slops of

Twin Peaks, 480 feet above sea level. Perched on this steej

^ lU

slope, a goo<^hree stories above the next stree-U the house
commands a magnificent vievif of San Francisco Bay.

M.C

L

f

Tom and I were seated before tliat windowed panorama ? 7 hen
the bang went off. A mighty jolt accompanied by a deep-seated,
gutttiral rumble shook the house to its very foundations, just as
if a terrific blast in a quarry close by had set off a thundering
avalanche of rock. F/ith the sudden realization that a dv/elling on
the brink of that precipite^^might be hazardous. I did notllong
■ hee - i^at-O fgs j - oin

the more earthquake-wise members of the party in
rush for the door andjjippen street.

It may be reassuring to learn tliat a frame house is one of
the safest places in a quake, yet it is not difficult, even at
this late date, to scare up more than a little concern thinking
of what might have happened had the house been nearer the epicenter
of that quake and toppled over the cliff.

Two days later, in Los Angeles, Drs. Rehder and Buttress came
aboard the "Mariposa”, completing our expeditionary party of four -
marine biologists all. Each his special interests to pursue:

Bowman (already mentioned) , the smaller Crustacea, chiefly the
Amphipoda and Copepoda^ Charles E. Cutress, the "radiate" animals
comprising the Echinodermata - starfishes, sea-cucumbers and their
relatives - and the Coelenterata, which include the jellyfish,
sea anemones, and the fleshy and stony corals; Harald A. Rehder,
the Mollusca - sea shells, land shells, snails, squids, and
octopuses; and the author, the larger Crustacea - shrimps, crabs.

s

and lobsters.

While docked in Los Angeles Harbor during the daylight hours

a visit was paid to mutua^riends at the Allan Hancock Foundation
of the University of Southern California, and to Captain Hancock’s
"Velero now the^ floating marine laboratory of th^’i fniversity

vessel

especially designed and equipped for

physical and biological oceanographic investigations.

In Honolulu, four and a half days. and 2,228 miles later, we
were welcomed by several friends of long standing - Mrs. Arthur
de C. Sowerby, whose late husband was the principal contributor to
the National Museum’s superlative representation of the larger
animals of North China and Manchuria, and Mr. Ernest N. May of
?/ilmington, Delaware, who with Mrs. May entertained us that evening
in their beautiful home on the sea under Diamond Head. lir. May is
a brother-in-law of Mr. J. Bruce Bredin, who, with Mrs. Bredin,
ade possible this third of the expeditions bearing their name
hich they have sponsored for the Smithsonian -il^nstitution. The first

ril

W

vms to the Belgian Congo in 1955, the second to the Caribbean in
1956 (see the Smithsonian Institution Annual Report for 1956;
Publication 4285, 1957). Earlier in the day the biological
laboratories of the University of Hav/aii, the Bishop Museum, the
headquarters of the Pacific-Oceanic Fishery Investigations, and
the Aquarium were visited.

Indulgence here is asked of our many friends and colleagues
in California and Honolulu for the absence of further acknowledge-

4

merits of their many kindnesses.

After five days and 2,381 miles more. we awoke to find
ourselves steaming into Papeete hath' ' ‘ '"‘n

was beginning to pink-tint the cloud

dark. verdant, sculptured hills of Tahiti. From that entrancingly

beautiful sunrise our attention was almost immediately diverted
by a flotilla o^utrigger canoes swiftly being paddled out from

shore byt a host of colorfully

Tahitian equivalent of the Hawaiian lei) around our necks with
a kiss on each cheek keep us from scanning the shore. Somev/here
among the many yachts from all over the worlc^ moored along the
sea v/all, w^as the 56-foot white-masted sloop - our home-to-be
^h at was to transport us^bout tho - iBl anl^f or the next seven weeks.

’#e found the "Mareva” most seaworthy^ comfortable^^^
commodious above deck, and well-equipped belov/

with refrigerator, large icachest, axixiliary diesel engine, and
electric generator. She v/as most geYlerously made available to

Times of Dayton, Ohio. Here it may be added that, having made
several cruises through the islands and having become fascinated

with the people and their history, Mrs. McConnaughy authored

several fictionalized accounts of the yesteryears of the Polynesian

(Eie .

v/ay of life and love .as ?/ell as of/ycontemporary li, iii-TiniiriS!''

* "Point Venus^., "Tropic of Doubt", and "Here on tlxis Island".

b

For s<i2»r)‘e

(X'Hu'r^’ vn/£ v/er€

Things had been so well kept aboard the "Marevi

II

'autu,

a beaming Tuamotuan, stout of heart and frame-^barrel-chested is the
wort^-deck hand, engineer, look-out, snsi helmsman on occasion.

fisherman, and expert

dlv er0f ^

that we were able to move aboard the.

vessel immediately on our arrival./ Other members of the crew

captain and cook - were ours to provide.

search long

Teai was a real y j - i n n nw^ y . One would have to

fWvA pUV /wv

i his equal as navigator, ever- helpful and

A

pleasant shipmate^ and gentleman, ^^ecently :^etired skipper of the
colonial government's official Inter-islandeiischooner^-he knew

fl ./X

as il as

Intimately all the Islands, reefs and passes, /winds and weather in
this part of the world. Educated in France, he v/as equally at home
with French, English, and his native Polynesian tongue, and, having
friends and acquaintances throughout the archipelago, he vms able
to facilitate our efforts everywhere. The captain also became an
expert at fine-sorting our catches. Quite a number of vials of
small organisms brought back to the museum attest ("9^ his keen eyes

and knowledgeable industry.

In viev/ of the compactness of the vessel, the well-appointed

galley, its appurtenances/ and sto7v*age space, we decided to dispense

0.

with the services of cook, and to divide the housekeeping chores
among us. Tom had done a stint with an army cook’s detachment during
the last war, and Cutress was a good second, ( ^s^ proving^ o be a
wonderful purchasing agent. Upon Rehder and myself devolved the
duties of mess boy. As cooks and helpers we four prepared most of

6

the meals aboard, but the Captain and Tautu handsomely reciprocated

was

time and time again. The Capt ain -pr qv tjd,,.. t o-eg- an excellent chef,
in addition to his other qualifications. Many v/ere the times that
we came in, wet, bedraggled and tired, from working on the reefs,
dredging, or seining, to find a well-prepared and appetizing lunch
or evening meal awaiting us.

Visiting the market with Cutress at half past five in the
morning, v/hen it opened, was a refmrding experience. There were
fresh fish of all kinds in great abundance, often more valuable
to us as specimens than as provender, although we enjoyed many of
them anyway. A profusion of vegetables, both tropical and
temperate-zone varieties, and ripe fruits of all sorts ?/ere
displayed for sale, and there was always a plentiful supply of
that w'onderful French bread at five francs a loaf, the legally
established price throughout the islands — as crisp, fresh,
and as fragrant as any you ever bought in France., ’walking thus
between the rows of tables and stalls filled v/ith all kinds of
exotic foods, jostled by a noisy crowd of bargaining and gossiping
people of the many races and mixtures that make up the populace of
Papeete, and breathing in the intriguing odors arising from the
fiuits and vegetables and fresh bread, mingled with the fragrance
of the ever-present flowers worn either in the hair or hat or around
the neck of women as well as men,(^l^/^ade^hls an ever-fascinating
occasion. By seven-thirty the market was generally sold out and

closed down.

7

In Papeete v/e had the good fortune of meeting up with Jack
Randall, here with his wife and small daughter aboard his 36-foot
ketch^the '’Nani'h He and Charles Cutress had been classmates at
the Uniyersity of Hawaii; no’w he was engaged in studying the fishes
of French Polynesia and collecting specimens for the Vanderbilt
Foundation at i^tanford University, -^earning of our venture he aad
bi-H - fr-RLlly Ytfere on hand -- at tho dook to grrrst up on our an i^al ' " klid
^encouraged us to visit the great atoll of Tikahau in the %amotus

With Jack aboard we hopefully set sail on April 8, four days

after our landing in Papeete. With a favorable wind to begin with,

and a purring diesel engine, the ’’Mareva” was making good time when

the engine unexpectedly went "hot”; the flexible line between oil

pump and clutch had burst. The Captain and Tautu tried mending it

with tape, but to no avail, ‘‘‘here v/as nothing left but to turn back

for repairs. With sails alone progress vms so slow that when we

were about four miles off Papeete, the Captain sent Hr. Rehder and

Tautu ahead in the outboard-motor— «powered dinghy to arrange with

the Captain of the Port for a tow to our mooring place. The necessary

repairs having been accomplished during the follo’wing day, we got Uac/evZ.

IkstiB-Y again by the mid-afternoon of the tenth of Apri ’ gad oovoro d-
^ /k/er€ ooverecl.

che approximately 140 miles to Tikahatuin a little over 24 hours.

This is the stretch of sea, in part at least, through which

(S^

Darwin sailed on the ^’Beagle "/November 13, 1835. In his diary notes
for that day he called the Tuamotus the "Lagoon Islands", which
as characteristic atolls they truly are.

Atolls lie loviT in the ’water and are not much higher than the
wave-sv>rept reef enclosing their central lagoon. At irregular intervals

8

along and ?/ltMn tiie crest of the reef accumulations of coral

sand, tossed up by the waTes that unceas
become consolidated form

palm-decked Islets, the larger of which are often

lly

inbabited. fninl ^ne or morB^chann els^^jreeching

the^ re pours the run-off of the water that

pile^ up in the lagoon either the tides and wind-blown

that .un across the expose. ree^«

windward side

Atolls, because of their low elevation and poor visibility,
always been a menace to navigation in the South Pacific,
especially in the days of sailing ships, v/hich v/ere rather
helpless when exposed to adverse 'winds and currents in close c^v/awters,

• fhus it is quite understandable tliat the numerous

care.

atolls comprising the Tuamotus, designa.ted the

Dangerous Archipelago on many charts. and in^arly sailing
directions .

in the other handj ^he Society Islandsy)are ”riigh ^^lands’’

'•Shnecb

feacl^ssentially a volcanic cone ol’ybones surrounded b^uringing
^ is c»- ^

ree£ within Virliich xxx enclosed relatively narrow lagoon^ with

" h\<d^ Isl q^yds grg K /e/0(/Hvg J

A

passes

Vh

T'ha

JL XXwi

Ids 'to. navigatio

^afe CaK re&fsy y

icesAeven ¥;hen

giving access to the sea.

hey are recognizable at sea for great distancesAeven ¥/hen
belov/ the horizon, for almost always over their peaks hangs a cap
or cover of clouds indicative of the existance of an island even

when this itself is not visible.

9

Ae.'tv.‘<p

strong winds and squalls attended to Tikahau aad

no doubt hastened our progress. The atoll was sighted shortly after
noon, but another two hours elapsed while we skirted the reef, before
^e enter^^J^r^heia'Ka Pass on the western side of the atoll. Once within
th^lagoon v/e turned south and headed for the anchorage marked on our

several

chart as lying on the lagoon side of Matiti islet, one of
the reef of

studding this atoll. Just within the entrance we spied an intriguing
patch of coral, a micro-atoll Jack called it-^— an atoll within

atoll.

had come a long way to sample the fauna of a South Pacific

of r re S

-tiwar' t ed/by the relativi

coral reef, and were not to be

relative lateness of

the hour. No sooner 'was the anchor dov/n than all hands piled into
the dingily ?fith their collecting gear to have a go at it. So rich
was our haul of marine life of all kinds ‘that we spent also the
next day, forenoon and afternoon, collecting along the lagoon and

seaward shores of Matiti islet and it^js outer reef. The effort

^eldecA^

w more than SOO crustaceans - shrimps, crabs, hermit crabs, and a
stomatopod or two, several hundred mollusks, more than SO worms of
several species, a few echinoderms, holothurians , and brittle stars,

and a number of small fish that had taken refuge in interstices

of

.ia the coral

Though wanting to try our luck at fish poisoning, ?fe hesitated
putting out rotenone because the South Pacific islandrrs

s e cur much of their food, and in many cases earn:^^
their living, by fishing. To settle the question. Captain Temarii
sent Tautu ashore to sound out the chief of the village
near the pass.

10

Before long Tautu retui-ned, accompanied by Chief Teroro, whose,
daughter and her cousin served as capable engineer and and crew of
his outboard-pov/ered whaleboat. He had heard of our being in the

ih

islands, as he on all current news br oad cast by "Radio Tahiti"

Kis receivel^Xpowered by the ?/indmill

in Bapeete(j)

visible over the palm trees of the village. Happily he
assured us that their catches Y/ere of the more migratory species,

and that our operations on the reef would occasion

, , ^0 p6lSc>t

no narm. We tlianked him for his advice and permission, the patch of

coral shielding our anchorage south of the pass. A gift of several

packs of cigarettes v/hich had been especially brought along as good

will give-aways the chief politely declined, explaining that he

adverse ^ fke

was a Seventh Day Adventist, and so -d^^satrTIse^obacco. He- was p^
pleasech howeve^ to accept three grapefruit, a bag of mint candies,
and a couple of milk chocolate bars for the girls. A few days later
he returned the compliment with several delicious watermelons.

Ever since the first Europeans came to the South Pacific missionaries
have been proselyting the natives. Today virtually all Christian
denominations have missionaries at work in the Society Islands. The
Seventh Day Adventists and the Mormons, though fairly late comers,
are especially active.

Too late to starfj^oisoning after Teroro ’s departure, we
essayed dredging in five fathoms in the lagoon off the main village.
Both dredges, one after the other, v/ould have been a total loss had
it not been for Jack Randall, who v/ent over with his

11

aqualung^-raaasc. dislodge^ them from beneath coral hea ds unde r which

they tod heoome wedged. After thesej dredgln^(attemp^the Captain
moved the ’’Mareva" across the 8-mile wide lagoon to another islet.

where we had lunch

sandy lagoon shore.

p yof f the

That afternoon the dinghy landed us on the lagoon beach, and
crossing the narrow islet, densely covered with coconut

palms and other trees and shrubs, ¥/e found ourselves on the windward
side of the reef that is Tikahau. Against its outer face great

i

rollers from across the wide Pacific roared unceasingly as they

broke against the reef and threw sliyward great sheets of//ater and

/ i*

wind-blo?«i spray. At low tide it is possible to vfork over the flat
of the ree:p4nd in the gulleys dissecting it. Through these the
Y«ater re^es v/ith each surge of the sea. Occasionally the crest of
the proverbial fifth or seventh roller (for safety’s sake make sure
of your count) boils across the top of the reef. Woe betide the
unwary if not braced in time to meet this wave, for he may be
forcibly throTun dov/n and, as has sometimes happened, have his clothes

rij)ped off by being ’’Yfashed” over the rough surface of the reef,
iiader and among the lunps and boulders of coral that the sea has
tossed on the top of the reef, and in the interstices of the coral
lining the gullies Y/ere found a treasure trove of little fish, q

sea shells, and other invertebrates . ^ ,

^ /4n__l^’-llic night spent on the ”Mar eva ” , ^itei^'^he tropical
moon shiningjfover the palms of Maiai

our ..little vesse'

ocKing

12

Cl

gpn± ay-.in the lagoorA'^ome of us returned/the next morning (a

ers made several seine

to the outer reef.

and dredge hauls^^n t he 3ag o^ side of the islet before

/C BQTTt7 >

returnrajittr^he old/anchorage in mid-afternoon.

night traps w ere set out in the hope of

getting rats for Dr. David Johnson, the National Museum’s

mammalogist , v/ho is especially interested in their distribution

over the world. The clav7s/biae3C"~the 'traps

^iXcL l?€€#i

indicated only too well tiiat the land crabs more i ore-handed

e>^t

tiian the rodents. 4^efore returning to the ’’liareva” in the ainghy

Tautu, Dr. ReMer, and I ranged the
outer reef v/ith flashlights. Tautu made the best haul, a small
robber or coconut crab, 3/rlcing along the lagoon shore. It was
the first of several we brought back to the ji^useum, and the first
I had ever seen captured alive.

We did not get at our fish poisoning until the follov/ing

morning

rm

a e

was more successful than anticipated, and

resulted in the largest and most varied fish collection made at
any one station in the course of the expedition. Our derris root,
or rotenon^ as the p 07 /dered form is Itno^wn, moistened v;ith sea water
was pressed into compact cakeS(£> These were placed in suitable
pockets in the reef before breakfast, and given about an hour^^
"soak”. In that time the slowly diffusing poisonous extract of the
derris root iiad paralyzed the respiratory, apparatus of all fish
coming within range of its lethal concentration. These were for

13

the most part found lying on the bottom, and among^the coral
forma tlonj ^.>l»h aoiiic float on the surface, when we went)) q-

after breakfast

with v/ater glasses, face masks.

dip nets, and spears^ several hundred fishes were picked up in the
next two hours, f he 110 saved for specimens had to be injected,

labelled, wrapped in cheese cloth, and bedded down in our copper
tanks before taking offf^r Makate^^

urgency to our homev/ard voyage ; the refiigerator had gone out of

It I*

vfhack, the cabin head refused to function, and after being out for

/(proved^ be

over a ¥/eek water and fuel needed replenishing. It/5^^ another of
our boisterous passages squalls in the early morning hours,

br » ef*

between 3 and 5 a.m.--i but a relatively one, as we reached

Makatea, also known as Aurora Island, at quarter to six. Because
of our need to return to Papeete as soon as possible, w'e
sperfSh 8 or 9 hours here, and busy ones they were.

Makatea, the name given tiiis type of island by the Polynesians,
has been adopted as the generic name for raised atolls, of which

u n

this particular ^katea is an oijtstanding example. Its towering

ecv

cliffs were the sea^mrd face of the reef that the original atoll
but ■■' Which new nas been elevated to a height of 350 feet above the
-ieve^ of the sea. The somewhat /dn^es seduce

*v5 OL

lagoon floor rich dsppsi^;6 of pho^spha tic- limestone.
At the present time this

IS

mined^ w

;wo

hundred thousand metric tons and moreVexported every year
^j^iar r ow^ Q t e e^ path one of the clefts in the islands rocky

wall, lead^^ up/from the landing docks at Temao, -■fehe •

nX

14

one ^ (k e. ivester'l^ ^

the^ settlement on t^^ide ~ofthe Island. To bring do?m the

narrow-gauge cars loaded with the phosphate rock an
inclined railway,. with two platforms, counter balancing one
another in ascent and descent, had to be installed. To facilitate
loading the freighters lying off shore because of close-in reefs.

these cars

are run out on_3n impressive.

cantileve^.^^el structure extendii^^ut to sea beyond the new

fringing reef^growing up about the island.

Some of us spent a few hours in the morning obtaining

d

representation of the marine life to be found on this relatively

L/P

narro?;, shelf -like reef. Latery^all rode up to the top of

the island on the inclined railway. This island is said to have
been a burial place for Polynesian chiefs years ago. Their
remains are supposed to be hidden in the numerous caves honeycombing
the cliffs. Human bones have been uncovered also in the course of
the mining operations. To obtain some of these v/as one of the
reasons for stopping here. That ?/e ?;ere fortunate in our quest
was due to the personal interest of the resident physician. Dr.
Francel Roques. He told us that as long as a team of French
anthropologists had been here a few years ago, we might have some
of the skeletal material they had left behind. We picked out a
few of the better preserved long bones and a skull, the more
complete of several partially fractured ones. Naturally y/e regretted
that there was no opportunity to explore the reputed burial caves.

/njkHselw

Dr. Roques/is aiiitg_an_authorlty on beetles, and has with him

.e /collect!

in large part during his previous tour of duty in North Africa.

15

Housing facilities on the island are modern and comfortable, as

u Oitrers .

,re also i

& the hospital!/ Dr. Roques, ¥/hose family-- wife

back

and daughter-— are with him, expressed a wish to exchs.nge

nL^e- d sJS

Coleoptera, of M s aqualung tanks

to Papeete for recbarging^T^hey^Sould be returned to him on the V-6i^
next phosphate freighter. At foiu? -thirty Y/e left carrying

with us the mail from the island, and after a seventeen-hour rim,
marked by a good following breeze and occasional squalls, we
entered Taunoa Pass, the -steafet entrance to the lagoon eastward of
the Papeete Pass. By 10 o’clock in the morning, April 17, the
"Mareva" was again snugly berthed at her accustomed place along
the Papeete sea wall, the Quai Bir Hackeim, with mail and repairs
the first order of the day.

The next day the first purchase was a steel drum, into which

as

the fish we had gathered on Tikahau were transferred^ f or ouc

< 3 v||f^copper collecting tanlcs had to bu

for the next round of

field 'work

■ e ■ feulg e in Bora Bora, Hus^hine, and Raiatea.

On the 19th, the opportunity was tiiken to examine the reef near
the.lmrbor entrance. This netteo^nother interesting lot of fish,
that were promptly injected and consigned to the recently purchased

drum.

Late that same evening Mr. James Copperthwaite, \Yith whom
we had become acauainted before going to Tikahau, and who had
evinced a great interest in our activites, and late:^in the
skeletal material ^*t hnd dropped by to tel.

of the discovery of a

skull in a flower bed across

the road

16

from the Cornelius Crane estate - Mr. Gopperthwaite v/as Mr ,
Crane’s representative in Tahiti. The skull had been unearthed
by a native gardner who quickly covered it over again — amoni^
■^^Z?l®s_ians burial sites are tabu, and not to be disturbed.

/T^r~ vy.s ^ — '

But/tlae temptation v/as too grea-^ The next morning I hurried
out wit h spade, sieve, and carton, and found not one skull but
two^ather badly fractured by the man’s spade. Carefully
sieving the soil, practically all the fragments were recovered,
but surprisingly enough no other bones were present. The
interment ha-ppened to be on the property of Mr. Medford Eellum,

residing on Moorea. I wrote him at once

Lis letter granting

me piffrmission to take the find back to the Smithsonian
Institution Included an invitation to visit him, should we come

to collect in Moorea.

CPie

letter contained the reassuring vrords:

"It is certainly better that a musem have those fragments than
to rebury them in the sands of Paea. I feel certain that no
living natives., had any idea that there were hones burled at that
place.- It should therefore not cause any ill-feelings among the
natives if the fragments are removed.”

The day we departed for Bora Bora was Easter Sunday, April
22, and Jack Randall, Dr. Rehder, and I took the opportunity of

again visiting the early Simday market. We arrived there shortly

. 0 - , T , through

alter five o’clock, and the guard, who Imew Jack, let us in, the

iron gate. -This time we were after unusual fish for our collections,

and we were able to examine the catches brought in by fishermen

and displayed for sale at comparative leisure, undisturbed by

17

crowds of shoppers* We discovered a number of interesting specimens and
finished our purchases just as the gong rang at 5^30, the signal for the gates
to open^ permitting the entrance of the hordes of people waiting to make their

purchases. Back to the ship we went through the crowds of shoppers^ carrying

«. . . fH -

^^home” our fish native style by means of fibre looped through gill opening

and mouth*

Later the ^aptain came dom to the ship vrith his wife^ daughter^ and
two grandsons, to show them over the ship* To mark the occasion of
Easter Sunday they brought with them a native-style luncheon, prepared
at home. This exceptionally delicious Polynesian repast included raw
fish pickled in lime juice and served with a sauce of coconut milk, a
”mess” of large Turbos ^ a hard-shelled coiled sea snail, and an equally
toothsome shellfish, ^ermetus ^ which live in more or less twisted
calcareous tubes resemblin those of certain polychaetous marine annelids -
each of these large South Pacific Vermetuses yields a most tasty morsel
of mollusk meat, as large around and as D.ong as or longer than one’s
forefingers. The vegetables were breadfruit, "cook” bananas (plantains),
sweet potatoes, a dish of shredded fresh coconut to sprinkle over every-
thing, as the Italians do grated cheese. ^ sweet rice pudding v/as the
dessert. Raw fish may strike some people as an unsavory dish, but it is
no more so than pickled herring - raw fish ’’Laid down” in vinegar and
spices instead of lime juice - the onlj^ noticeable difference being in
cocoTiut milk which the Polynesians lace with seawater before pouring it

over.

1 Q

JL

Outbound we headed for Taapuna Pass in order to investigate
an area of very luxuriant marine growth sea\fard of the home
occiipied by Mrs. Stephen Phillips of Salem, Massachusetts, her
three young daughters, and, of all people, Margaret Tit comb,

librarian of the Bishop Museum, knovm to every s^cientist of

^ver*

?/hatever calling who visited Honolulu. She had come down on
the "Mariposaf^ with the Phillipses, whose good friend she Y/as .

Mr. Phillips was to join his family later, and, being close

friends of the McConnaugheys, they ¥/ere to take over the

"Mareva” for a cruise to the Marquesas when v/e were through with her

her

The section of the reef/-td^fe Mis. Phillips wanted - us . tO ' sec-

ftny' 0. "Fw//

v/as literally carpeted with hundreds of large sea anemones, abife g fct

six inches across v/hen fully expanded. Intermixed were a host of

other sessile e - oolcaaterat s ^ hydroids, seafans, a nd fleshy corals,

A great variety of shells were either sitting on or raovThg^over>^

the and rock bottom. Colorful_f ish v^ere flitting

ClKct X^V^Qr-e w

, 1 undoubtedly /many mors cruslaceans/than the
few craos and shrimps we were able to spot. With great reluctance
we left this happy hmtlng ground, but we had on our way.

oil

1 Pi

sea always seemed toji;st_rnug
remam_na-> di

he

IV

evening

Ot5V»

5:30«the "Ivlareva” began rolling

andy^n through the night,
heavily and our tank chests started straining at their lashings.
Before we could do anything about it, an eight-gallon tank full
of ou^eserve formalin, that had somehow failed to be lashed tojj^

( u^orse ,

ae lid had not

the others, ire.z on it‘s side, -fe -addlti

been fastened securelj^ase^-^jj an instant some gallons of that

19

noxious fluid were sloshing hack and forth over the deck. Cutress,
who happened to be nearest, quickly righted that tank, and so saved

ihuf’ nov^

s ome of

4 ^

precious preserving fluid.

If ever you want a bit of excitement on a small craft at sea,
just turn loose some six or seven gallons of commercial formalin
while - your vcoael is rolling in a heavy sea. If you know what full
strength formalin can do to your skin and the mucuus membranes of
your respiratory passages you will knov/ what we were up against in
that formalin-saturated atmosphere. It was no fun getting up the

*i“

4f V d U

er to flush the formalin overboard with just one small bucget

on a rope. Every exertion made you breathe deeper and inhale more
of those atrocious fumes, while a formalin-seawater flood was sloshing
over your feet. Sure, we had to spell one another on the bucket j

one can take only so much of those choking vapors 1.

one of us

would ever again want to live through another experience such as
that one. Fortunately, we had still a nuiaber of 1-lb bottles

of the f'stuff". Never again will I put so many of our <^eggs*^in one
basket^ or tank, again, - not on a trip such a long way from base.

Clearing the N.S. point of Moorea at about 6 p.m., we sighted
Huahine_^^:^%]se---Tie«fe*'''ffl^ 3 »±;»^ ahcLut 10 miles oif tna starboard
bow. were enterin'g^eavapiti Pass^to that beautiful,

wonderfully peaceful channel that separates Raiatea from its twin
Tahaa. By 11 we were leaving Urepiti Pass at the other end, headed
for Bora Bora.

The surf piling high against the seaward face of the fringing
reef of Bora Bora was a stirring sight. Whoosh, crash, and a sheet

20

of spray would gb up 10 to 12 feet In the air. The sky was overcast,
the weather thick and somevshat chilly, or so it felt. One wished
for clearer weather and some sunlight in order to get a good
photograph of that skyward leap of the sea. We coasted along the
southwest edge of the reef for some time before making Teavanui
l^ass on the island’s western front.

It ?;as a relief to get into the calmer wraters of the lagoon.

en

Y/

e v/ere reluctant to leave behind the spectacular

sight outside. We did not stop at Vaitape, the principal settle-
ment, to deliver the sack of mail that the postal authorities in
Papeete had asked us to bring over to Bora Bora— -just drew close

enough

to toss it

i-C t QC' f

It v/as our intention to seek a\landing
less subject to/^distractions occasioned by too many^ or too frequent
visitors. Prom what Captain Temarii had told us, adjacent Paanui
Bay held promise of being t he ideal place. Left over from World
War II ’s operations was the^stout but deteriorating Farepiti Point
dock or wharf, which, together with the water line serving it had
been installed by the Navy, v^hen the island was an important half-
v/ay base between Honolulu and Australia and Ne?^ Zealand j with the
cessation of hostilities the istallations were abandoned. It goes

without saying that the villagers at the island’s principal port,
site of the cinema palace on Bora Bora, were disappointed by
our choice of operating base, but never was the old saw of "jumping
from the frying pan into the fire" more truthfully applicable to
any situation than into the one we had unwittingly maneuvered

21

ourselves. Tane, brother of a taxi driver v!e had employed in Papeete,
drove a bus here on Bora Bora. He happened to come by, perhaps
purposefully, with some passengers on the more or less passable road
tliat ran around most of the island^^ From a village back in the woods,
the proximity of wliich no one had realized, came folks, young,
middling, and old, to liave a look at the ^'Ifareva" and the visitors
from overseas.. We were given a cordial invitation to attend a practice
dance that very same evening in that neighboring village. If you
know Tahiti better than we did at the time you xvould know that an
annual dance festival and contest is held in Papeete each year durihs '
the Bastille Day July 14th<-— festivities^ learned of tliat custom
here in Faanui Bay on April SS, 1957. Each of the Society Islands
sends a team, in fact ty^o teams, one of men and one of women, to that

annual evenjj. Prizes are awarded to the best dance teams and the

Ohftlc Oi»vcl

best-costumed teamsX There are prizes also for other contests of
skill and prowess. Bastille Day in Tahiti has Ijsnnae now-a-days^

from an all-day and all-night celebration, a colorful, exciting,

ofheti

and exhausting affair lasting week and longer .

The Bora Bora girls had.-.v/on top team honors for women several
years in succession. How could we refuse to accept an invitation
to a part of the training program in a village that might contribute
one or more members to future Bora Bora prize-winning teams?

At half past eight we went with our Coleman lantern to light
the Y/ay on the pitch dark road. The dance was held on the concrete
floor of a former Navy storage shed of vi/hich the corrugated iron
superstructure had either rusted av/ay or "Y/alked off” in the years

since the war. It was located some distance from the wharf,
perhaps to conceal it from enemy bombers that fortunately never
materialized .

The ballet master, or director of dance, had his charges at
work by the time ?/e arrived. The orchestra was going full tilt, and
long before we could see wliat was going on, the stirring beat of
Tahitian drums greeted our ears, and, we must confess, quickened
our step. All was in semi-darkness, as only two single-mantle
Coleman lanterns were on hand to light up the place. Ours, with
two mantles, proved a welcome addition to the dance floor’s other-
wise feeble illumination.

The performance was interesting and colorful to the extent
of tempting Cutress to try a few flash-light color shots. After
the second or third, the instructor begged him to desist, saying

O'

that after a fish ?»ent off he was so blinded for a time that he

A

could not see what the aspirants for places on the island’s ladies
team were doing. A compromise was effected; we wanted pictures

of the girls in their colorful dresses, and so ¥/ere promised that

some of them in full costujne would come dov/n to -i

«

following

P-wr

wharf

the

e candidates for the Bora Bora men’s team follow'ed

the ladies onto the dance floor, but not for long. The rain, which
started a little before ten o’clock, threatening t^o become a real
downpour, put an end to the evening's tryouts.

We got no action pictures that next morning for want of an
orchestra, but we did get a few stills. The girls prolonged their

visit beyond all expectations. They stayed on and on that morning,

V

and as noont,-t}»e rolled aroimd were on hand for limch. This might

have posed a problem - there were six girls - but for the fact that

the day before the local fisherman had been asked to bring in some

spiny lobsters for specimens with such other crabs and shrimps they

very

might secure. Early this^morning some four or five fishermen in
tv^o outrigger canoes brought me a total of 49 lobsters and, in
addition, 2 Scyllas a genus of large swimming crabs Y/idely
distributed in the Indo-Pacif ic-— and a dozen huge stomatopods,
all 14-16 inches in length. I was aghast at this bountiful liarvest.

far larger than the half-dozen or so I had expected to get. G

ood-Y^ill ,

however, is good-¥/ill, especially in a stange place; besides, spiny

A

lobsters are delicious eating. So we had s'^pecimens as well as an

abundance of fine sea food for a number of meals to come.

Tne

lobsters, cooked and refrigerated, v;ere ready to eat; with cooked
rice and lots of butter-— the Polynesians surely love buttery-limeade,
and canned plums for dessert, a real banquet was had. With true
domesticity, the girls carried the dishes to the tap on the vmter-
supply line a short distance from the dock, and v/ashed them there,
■while Dr. Bowman scouted around for amphipods in the swampy area
into ’Which the water drained. This w-as kept continually wet by
overflow and wastage, as home ovmers living in the area came here
for their fresh water. I called it ’’the spring”, for as such the
intermittently used water tap functioned.

With the drying and the stowing away of the dishes in their
proper ’’pigeon holes” on the galley shelves ended, iie were ready

to call an end to the party. There was shore collecting still to

be done, but three of the girls insisted on helping out with this

/Tbo

"chore”< as did one of the many boys who were forever hanging
around the dock. These volunteers turned out to be of substantial
assistance in capturing animals on, under, and from" cracked coral
rock, or shaken from clumps of seaweed in the stretch of shore
between Farepiti and Pahua Points and out to the inner slope of
the fringing reef. Among the specimens the girls secured was
the second of our only three examples of prettily marked shrimp
of the genus Gnat honhvllum .

Once more, as before and since that ‘'picnic I congratulated
myself on the wonderful cap^tain v/e had engaged. It vms not too
long after we returned from this collecting foray that the Cantain,
a y^mily man himsifeef and a person of great tact, took over. In ■
French, the language in which all Society Island youngsters are
schooled, he said "Girls, it's time to go home". With "Good-bye -
Au revoir" they were on their way.

Bowaan's amphipods, and the crustaceans, shells, echinoderms,
hydroids, bryozoa, and sponges from along the shore and the east
and south sides of Farepiti Point were not the only specimens we
got, or the only collecting stations we established on Bora Bora.
There were some 19 stations at Y;hich v/e collected on this island,
but in Dr. Rehder’s and my estimation the station "occupied" on
the Bora Bora reef three days after the "picnic" was the most
memorable .

The morning follov/ing that impromptu luncheon was ushered

in with lusty rain squalls, proverbial tropical torrents of cold

water. Vv'ho should come pa.ddling by in a native outrigger canoe,

khaki

suntanned-brovm and naked exceot for a aair of well-worn

shorts, but Henry Strauss of New York City, looking more nativ
than a Bora Bor an. He was doing a documentary film on the
''Islands under the wind", as the French call the windward membe

W>-

’rs

of the Society Islands, for Pan American Airways. He had been at
the practice dance of a few nights ago, and had come to pay us a
visit this chilly morning. No more entrancingly beatitiful
motion picture has ever come out of these Isles of Paradise than
the one Mr. Strauss - fellow member of the Explorers Club, by the
y - put together from his filmina.

The clearing afternoon brought the girls back, this time to

deliver several hula costumes we had ordered. Ttipt transaction

disposed of, vie overhauled our past several days' collections.

Pen

changed alcohol, and cleaned up an accumulation of Shells,

bottling the little pontomid shrimp that live, a pair each, in
most members of this family, especially v/here these occur in crowddd

beds. The "meat" of these Pen Shells =. of the genus Atrina, which,

by the 'way, we had purchased that morning from a fisherman, hnifi
supper that night, and a delicious repast proved to be.

The next day was more or less routine: did some dredging in
the morning along the north side of Faanui Bay, had the balance of
our spiny lobsters for lunch, worked on the reef west of Toopua
Island, had Squillas, or Mantis Shrimps (the stomatopods) for

26

supper, and at night hung the waterproofed electric light over
the side. The wealth of small animal life such a light attracts
is unbelievable; larvae of all kinds, fish, worms, crabs, shrimp,
mollusks, and other forms of marine life come swarming in such
numbers as to constitute what has aptly been called plankton
soup. Tiirough this ''Soup” may dart lightning-s?/ift squids or at
times scores o^lsh of sizes varying according to their preferred
foods - whether smalO^lanktonic organisms or fishes smaller than

N(ire oTTei^^aH

. Under favorTrble eonaition ;

themselves

»s quarts of these diverse

kinds of marine life can be had by merely swishing a dip net
through the water.

A

^ming back to that stomatopod supper: the. meat g 4 - .,t,ba
as in the case of spiny lobsters, is what you primarily eat.
Cooked the same way, the tail of Sauilla is about the most tooth-
some piece of crustacean meat you ever set your t^eth to.y Strange
as it may seem, the flavor is very sweet. To associate ’^very Svfeet”
•with lobster or crustacean flesh may s t r i ke- rn n -n y n-s incongruous,
but the fact in no ’way lessens the pleasure of eating Squllla tails

Speaking of delectable crustacean food, on another occasion
we enjoyed for the first tim^ robber or coconut crabl Having read
thiat on some South Pacific islands this crab has been exterminated
by 'natives hunting it for food, a'nd that it is getting .scarcer in

o

hother hungry

enemy of this unique crab’, the wish to taste it, expressed to the
captain, resulted in an out-of-the-ordinary crustacean disln The

So.

WAV' ^hx.e ,

meat is much like that of any other crab. The abdomen cooked

bocty'

along with it, however, is full of^melted butter the oily a fat

^rrst

rendered liquid by the heat of cookin^yt^

.11 to

oner Clip,

his chunks of crab mea’^^j((j'ah epicurean treat, par excellency

)oQy(A».oi V*€ •

That a robber crab can open coconuts - young, or fully ripe />

, 4 -

‘ - li

with the tough outer husk still on, or just the fully ripe ’’nut

Irv O • ^ •

itself - is ct , moot point/ - I have yet to meet an eyewitness

to such a performance. Though I have changed my opinion from pro
to con and back again in the light of statements made by various
naturalists, I feel more than ever that a fully groY/n robber crab
in good condition can open a ripe coconut in its husk if he is so

/

•r-

minded. He possesses the "tools” and the muscular s__,trength to
successfjilly accomplish the task.

It is hard to say -#Yhich of the islands visited we shall
remember longest. Each of these Society Islands has its , ovm

peculiar charm, and equally lovely people, and some experience

(She

connected Y/ith it that will stay with -as as long as live^.
For me, at least, it was the night , three

days after the picnic on board ship mentioned above, on which
Dr. Rehder and I went out on the Bora Bora reef.

or

The natives go lobster hunting on this reef at night, and as
F;ere anxious— tOk.oarticipate in such an excursion, the Captain

7F0

arranged

ncAV n ,

twoeXh^ienced fishermen to take us out on Friday

■o

April 26, two nights before we were to leave Bora Bora.

As these men lived in Vaitape, he moved the "Mareva" over to the

28

pier tiiere. While awaiting thei^vfe visited the local schoolteacher,
Henry Moua, 'who had a fine, though small, shell collection. HeithEr

siveW

Render nor I have ever seen so many 'smssUc collections in so sma.ll-
an area as the Society Islands .

It was 7 o'clock when ?/e took our places amidships in a
narrow dugout canoe with outrigger, and expert paddlers fore and
The reeij-nas farther out than it looked from shore, and when

aft

the canoe griiiunded on it a good half hour later, we waded "ashore"

with the DOY/man. His companion remained in the canoe, keeping it

al<r>v<A

abreast of us on the lagoon side as we traveled the 4 = en,gTO.-of the
reef. First, however, our guide lit the Coleman lantern he had
brough!^4.1ong, and we lit ours. Here this type of lamp has become

i

/*

the "torch", replacing the biasing faggots of bygone days. These
ingenious Polynesians have no'w added something new, making the
Coleman lantern a far be ttgrjt orch. Ordinarily it swings too low
to be safely car

where a gully or tide pool has to be crossed, or where an occasional
roller floods o\’'er the reef. These fishermen have improvised a
handle v/hich supports the lantern underneath and holds its sides
tightly so tiiat it can be held high in front of one^OT overhead
in order to Illuminate crevices in the reef or the depths of
tide pools. We came to grief carrying car Coleman by its
as might well have been expected^ when one of us stepped into

an unexcectedV vYaist-deep pool. Too late did we appreciate the

A

conditions to be encountered or learn of the fishermen’s very
practical device.

I have bean on reefs and shoals in the Caribbean with a light
at night, but never before had I seen anything remotely approaching
the vast expanse of this barrier reef. There may be other mid-
Pacific reefs that equal or suitpass it. In the Atlantic there are
some suectacular reefs, but nothing so v/ide and impressive as the
stretch of reef we travelled on t hat anight p i.'.i: 1 Hot until

recently did I learn that this Bora Bora reef had elicited rauch
the same comment, thirty years before our visit, from William
Morris Davis: "The barrier reef of Borabora is exceptional in the
breadth of its flat, Vihich is up to a mile wide” (The Coral Reef
Problem, iimerican Geographical Society, 1928, p. 303).

As observed in similar excursions in other parts oftthe

world, the eyes of crustaceans brilliantly reflect the light from

t\

lantern, jCashlight, or torch. Their eyes shine as though they

At night

the lobsters come foraging over the reef flat from their refuges

.4

nd hide-aways on both sides of the reef ; from which side they

come in greater numb e r s la goon or sea-— i have not ascertained

Our^was a fair liaul ol^lobsters of no great size. The

/V ^ SfG»vx ,

less tlian half -grown specimens we gatl^ed indicate that they

cl

re too intensively fished. However, with the proverbial luck

of an amateur, I got the largest one

about 13.5

inches long fi’om fore-edge of carapace, or dorsal shield, to hind
margin of telson, or end of tail. Indeed, the fishermen with us,
and others later in Vaitape, remarked that lobsters of that size
were very seldom taken, and that they had not seen one as large

In a long time.

'he second 4«l— *%]/ E^V 3 scarcely 11 inclie

in length.

For our spoils we

carried a bucket each, s

bailSiiwere

Just as unsuited for ’work on a reef at night as those of our

Coleman. Instead of bucket or basket the fisherman had

sizeable pannier woven of palm leaves, supported by a

S uP^

p of

the same material over the right shoulder and crossing the chest
to the left side. Ever so often we came upon M large, almost
lake-like, tide pools too deep to ?/ade, or deep crevices that
had to skirt. We did encounter several good surges of water

across the reef but none that posed any serious

c! 'F* Vll'* hi

atj the fish-

erman al’ways warned us in time. Aside from lobsters, — Oiir ha'Ul
XJ ' H ' this first- time out oolloctlng la L ' Ms fa ' blilOxi wao irq -t
particularly si - gnlf loan4 .>

There is a Iwa y s a ” pay -of f ” to every adventure, and ours

on

v~mj back to the "Mareva’V

v?as the rain squall t iia^we ran

1 /

Neither Render nor I ever forge t it^ or Bora Bora where

- napponod b^ This sauall

4'’'\

Vw d O

henry Strauss

wenx threugl? ^

the previous ?/ednesday when he c

:ome out from ¥aitape in that

ft'"

toy canoe to see us much the same only more sol We had no

^ 'feel

idea how really cold these tropical rains can tJ:iin-shirted
as we were. If you want to kno?/ how it felt try v/earing a Vvet
cotton shirt on a dark night in a chilling wind while sitting in

L „„„„ — . shipping water, with no chance

to do any bailing, ilalf an hour of it and you are a mass of goose

the bottom ofa narrow canoe

pimples, and your teeth are going like castanets-*^ yes.

*"Z T
tj±

eaporleae^ewlong to remember I
Rehder, I, or the fishermen.

I do not knoYf who vra.s the colder

They did not seem to mind. Were

they more ofphe stoic t^^pe, or just ^’plain^' conditioned to this

^ rl" i% 1 Y

On Saturday morning rotenone '’cakes " were put out in a likely
looking place inside the outer reef, 'i’he operation of gathering

the affect^ fish kept us busy through the forenoon, even though
we had a very expert . skin diver helping us, Harry Sliupack, who had

come down on the ’’Mariposa” ’with us.J

/

ang mas now . i ^

vacationing at Vaitape. So many v^ere the fish that/ we had an

abundance fair our larder

Ifter dressirtj

hem

We

n^rous helpings of fish-head chowder a la I’emarii for lunch. Getting the

}.

Specimens \ fish saved for injected, labelled, wrapped, and bedded
dovm in our tanks occupiad/that afternoon, we returned to

our old mooring in Faanui Bay, and after a lobster supper v/e had
company, f/ord must have gotten around that ’we v;ere to sail at
daybreak, for the girls v/ho ha.d posed for photographs, and v/ho had
stayed for lunch some days ago, came by to give us a fare?/ell”sing’J
Sing they could and did, a variety of charming songs in Tahitian
and French, in delightful harmony and Yfithout accompaniment. One
song in particular went over so well that I was moved to ask for

balioccj

the name and w ords, it was ”A Maid of Sorrento” a i rencn

from records brought

ehrned

no doub

ffom Faneete .oi^f rom the ’’Radio Tahiti”.

(pccs^

ve

The mooring lines were gotten aboard at

morning. Half an hour later we w^ere well out of the pass. The
sun was just peeking over Bora Bora’s Mouiits .Otemanu and Paiha,
and as I v/as asking the Captain to have a look at this very
beautiful smarise, I realized that I did not have on my earphone.
Without it conversation, as hard of hearing as I am, is no fun.
for me or for anyone else. It. was neither on the shelf by my bunk
or in any other likely place. It mus^^t have been left on a rock
by the ’’spring” late last night while taking a. ’’Baturuay night’'
shower with buckets of spring v/ater. The oversight cost us an
hour’s time - SO minutes in and 30 minuties out again I

Nt>

It ''^s<ts''arcaim, clear , sunny

day, with a lighL easterly

breeze. On this run to Raiatea the Captain wanted to show' us a

well-known, large marae at Tevaitoa, and several figures or

symbols carved on boulders nearby . Marking them out with chalk

that he had thoughtfully brought along, we did get a snapshot of

/

them. That done, the Cantain ’went on to/Uturoa, the seat of the
Raiatea government, .fn i , i rom the i/aterlront instcillations
it is an important port of call. Everything v/as shut do’.m, as
it was Sunday, and here we v/ere, so very short of formalin, due
to that accident on the v/^y to Bora Bora. We needed it badly,
not only for what might be collected here but alsocat huahine
in the course of the next five days. Among the tov/nspeople ’//ho
came dov/n to see us was Charles Brotherson, the toivn baiber, ana
. - hov/ lucky can one be--— a Seventh Day Adventist, to whom oru*
Sunday was just another, work day . As soon as he learned of our

formaldehyde difficulty, he went off to see the local pharmacist and promptly
brought back the promise that all available, aboiit a gallon, would be deli-
vered to the ship first thing Monday morning, April 29.

When I inquired of Mr. Brotherson how he came to be here, he replied,

"It all started in I85I with the Australian Gold Rush when my grandfather on
my father's side, Peter Broderson v;as his Danish name, got the gold fever
along with many others. Though sixty of them boarded a ship somewhere in
the States, they got shipwrecked in the Tuamotus, Only 7 survived, and
some means continued to Tahiti, and lastly Raiatea. ^t is quite a tragic
stoiy, because two of my grandfather's friends and shipmates committed sui-
cide a few years later. Jfy grandfather, badly shaken by the loss of his
friends, found relief in hard work for a Gerraan firm trading in the Islands.
He married my grandmother who was the daughter of a ship captain by the name
of Hunter. Of that imion 9 children were born. Jfy father, born in 1888,
was the third. This was a few years before the Island of Raiatea became a
French Protectorate,

"At the age of I4 ny father was sent to school in the States where he
stayed for 12 years. After he finished school, he worked first in Iowa,
and later in San Francisco, Aq-v/ays he wanted to come back to his family
and these lovely islands which he never forgot. He did come back in his 26th
year in 1914 > and married that very same year Elizabeth Horley, the daughter
of an English stone mason. Born in 1918, I was the first of their 10
children.

"As for myself, I have not much to say, except that I must thank God
because I was born in this beautiful Island, and I do pray to Him that it
vrill stay this way for ever. We have been visited by many tourists from all
over the vrorld in these last few years, a big Cinema Company which is not the
best thing for these I^ands, and of course various government officials,"

Soon the Captain moved the "Mareva" over to an anchorage off the
Teavapiti Pass where we went collecting over the shallows between Taoru islet
and the fringing reef, -^’he weat her continui ng fine, the shore and coral
formations of islet Tetaro v\rereyworke<i over the same afternoon. For the nighty
we returned to the wharf at Uturoa to leave there at eight in the morning for
Huahine.

Before leaving though, I ran back to Brotherson^s barber shop at the
corner of which I had seen a very remarkable piece of wood carving, a regular
Polynesian*^ totem pole*** Mr. Bredin had commissioned us to purchase, if pos-
sible, some native wood carvings. Such things are now extremely rare, or
sequestered in museums, so when I first saw this one I inquired as to its
history and availability. **OhI that,’* said Mr. Brotherson, **is a prop left
behind by the last movie company making a picture here. They brought it with

them from Hollywoodl**

En route to Huahine, the Captain stopped at Opoa to show us another
marae, this time the most revered of all in the islands. By its great central

columnar stone, the Polynesian kings of yore were crowned! In taking photo-

/ (

graphs of it, we w i arta d for a native in costume. The Captain obligedr^j

ffi vesting himself of most of his clothing, wrapp^^ a couple of palm fronds

around his middle and improvisedHtiL crown from a coconut palm bract!

Huahine we shall remember as the sweetest smelling of the islands. The
full-flavored aroma of vanilla could be appreciated for some distance off
shore. It became more pronounced as we pulled along-side the seawall at Fare,
hr?lf past two or the last day of April. Vanilla is an important cash crop
in the Society Islands; in 1957 > 177 metric tons of vanilla beans or pods,
valued at two million dollars, were exported.

Awaiting the "iVIareva" at Fare were two 100 pound blocks of ice for the

large ice chest jn the pilot house, ■‘■'he order for ice had been placed in
Papeete bjr radio, and this very afternoon were left for us by the inter-
island boat, the "Orohena." Packed in a thick "mat" of shredded coconut
fiber, and sewed in burlap, the ice arrived in good shape with scarcely any
loss from melting. Although we were in the sunny and often rainy South Paci-
fic latitudes, "the ice man cometh" as dependably as he used to come at

scr>*<j <ltirpp

home. After getting ice aboard, the ’^Mareva'^ moved down the lagoon
^ miles to an anchorage in Baie de Bourayne where fron J to 5 the after-
noon» collecting in the shoaler waters of the channel dividing

the two islands within the one fringing reef, "Huahine-nui" and "Huahine-iti.'J
That night tow netting by Dr. Bowman provoked unsuspected luminescent ostracods
in the catch to emit a succession of brilliant flashes of intensely blue light.
There is always something new being turned up in collecting, morning, noon,
or night. This islet, lehder and Gutress scouted after all hands returned from

o y

the reef at half past four. Later vre moved nearer Fare, and the next morning

explored the fringing reef to the right of the Avamoa Pass close by. This was

as

as intriguing and fruitful a reef /we had yet seej^V^n the morning we set out
rotenone cakes for fish^y^mt Unfortunately the returns were poor due to unex-
pectedly strong currents, and a rising tide.

On Huahine is a great lake. Lake Maeva, where since long before the advent

of the first European navigators, the Polynesians prosecuted a still famous
mullet fishery. When fish are wanted, the fishermen in their canoes set up a
great **drive,” beating the water with their paddles to frighten the fish into
long V-shaped traps or pens of coral rock. Their combined openings stretch
completely acr*oss an arm of the lake. At the wide open ends are stone shelters
for the ’^vj-atchmen’* who close with nets the entrances of the several V*s to
prevent the fish from ej^haping. The fishery was not in operation at the time of

our visit, so the opporttmity was taken to collect some of ite invertebrate

inhabitants. On the return to P’are in tjite hired truck, we stopped to take

Qk<^ So

photographs of the fishing village— much of it is on pilings »remini scent of

iu o • n 1 j TT- « Tr . .

the Swiss lake dwellangs^ parts of Venice perhaps, or somej^ilTage^ ^

<cns^r^f fhe Maevsi elementary school^at recess as we passed by*// Pri?

— — reftt

night. May 3> was to have been devoted to. collecting

a

J

violent wind storm wh ich blew up rather suddenly from the south west

bwt^

roughing up the ie^^endered this impossible,^^,*^^ promised also to delay our

aKc(. 1?/

ng i ^^e^Captain ^o^fTTiiiy upped the anchor A seven twenty-five -sped IvTcvS

headed for home. In spite of the

unruly sea, the ’’Mareva” made good

time. Rounding the northeast point of Moorea by 9 in the morning, the Captain
had the Mareva back in Papeete shortlj^ before noon on Saturday, although this

.ay, no time v/as lost v^atering, refuelling, and getting

provisions aboard. In less than two weeks our time would be up

and we had rot yet set foot dn Moorea, or

tn

anv of its waters.

Sunday was as wet as Saturday, Monday all preparations for departure

having been completed by 2 o*clock vdth ’^^Good clear weather - fine sea^* as

the Capt"?in noted in his log, the course was set for Opnnohu Bay, Moorea,

There is no '^oubt that fond remembrance of visits to Tahiti, and to

Moorea especially, during his three years in the South Seas inspired Anatole

von HiAgel to write in the Encyclopedia Britannica for the first time, in

IBBB (9th edition, vol, 23) > that ”A11 voyagers agree that for varied beauty

Pacific

of form and colour, the Society Islands are unsurpassed in Had

the Baron travelled as widely among the Greater and Lesser Antilles and through

the Caribbean and adjacent waters, he svirelv would have included the Atlantic

Sc)

islands in that comparison v/hich pays such a high tribute to the beauty of the

Society Islands. In that tribute he went on to say: "Innumerable rills, fed by
the fleeting clouds which circle round the high lands, gather in lovely streams
and, after heavy rains, torrents precipitate themselves in grand cascades
from mountain cliffs - a feature so striking as to have attracted the attention

of all voyagers from Wallis [176?] downward."

Going into Opunohu Bay, we passed on the port bow, the palm thatched
house in which Jack Randall, his wife, and daughter had spent most of the past
12 months studying the ha,bits and behavior of the local open-watei^ and reef
fishes. Of all these he made rather generous collections for future systematic
study.

Toward the head of the Bay on the west side, the Kellums have their home,
and farther on, a plantation of nearly 200 acres. The Phillipses and Miss
T^.omb of whom we had seen very little over the past several weeks were good
friends of the Kellums, so we were pleased to be able to take them over for a
visit* This they prolonged for several days at the attractive hotel in the
equalljr beautiful Paopao, or Cook*s Bay* But we went on about our business
of collecting with a very xvonderful assist from Mr* Kellum himself. He
guided us to the productive areas which he had discovered along the shores of
the bay, in the lagoon outside, and about the Piopio and Toatane reefs on the
west side of the Avaroa Pass. This^ass giv^^^ccess to Cook’s and Opunohu Baj
The night of our arrival baited wicker mollusi^ traps were put out but the
catch when they xvere hauled in two days later v/as disappointing; nary a shell.

just a single crab and small g^at fish*

Wednesday morning. May 8, at 6 o’clock, we accompanied Mr* Kel]um to
another of his favored collecting grounds ~ the reef between the islets of
Tiahua and Fareone — where the ensuing seven and a half hours were spent.
Sorting took the rest of the daylight, hours, during which Drs. Bowman and

Rehder exp3-ored the Opunohu River at the head of the Bay. From its waters
they brought back a score of snails^ a fish^ 3 crabs, and L shrimp.

With the continuing good weather, the reef east of the Taareu Pass was
visited Thursday forenoon, and dredging undertaken in the afternoon. The
dredge was biting sharply on the rough bottom when an alarming jerk on the line
rudely informed us that the dredge was firmly anchored. Dredging Society
Island lagoons is always ticklish business. We were pretty close in. The
sudden stop caused the "Mareva** to si'd.ng in alarmingly toward the coral studded
shore line. Before we could cast the tow rope loose the Captain, more con-
cerned with the safety of the ship than any specim.ens that might be in the
dredge, quickly cut the rope. A man of foresight, he was alert to just
such a contingency. Jack Randall and his aqualung had left us

bail

we provid3d each dredge with a light buoj^ line and^float so that it
could readiljr be located should anything happen to the tow rope, or eho t- i - l d

t.n b-r? ^^^'"t--n'iri In the evening we tied up at the Cook*s
Bay Hotel dock. All hands from Captain down had dinner ashore for a change.
Here we missed the Phillips-Titcomb party as they had earlier returned to

Tahiti to avoid the incessant, hea'^/y rain to which we. were now^subjected from
about seven that evening on throu^ the next morning.

Mr. Kellum’s knowledge of good collecting grounds stemmed from his interest
in building up an excellent series of m,ore species of shells than we were able
to turn up in our limited stay in Moorea. He showed us more than a few ‘*tricks'*
for finding this or that species of mollusc. He knew the habits of many of
them as well as he knew those of his-^hildf^en. Very generously too, Mr. Kellum
let Dr. Rehder select ay^ot oy duplicates for the National Museum^

Off ^ook*s Bay, vre used the last of our rotenone, but again the local
currents spoiled i?&."funl*

Our last collecting in Moorea was done at the '»Captain»s place*” Though
he lived and had his hone in Tahiti, he had recently purchased a modest holding
here on the shores of Nuarei Ba;r* No wonder he was proud of it — a typically
Pol^mesian layout among the coconut pains, beautifully green, and well shaded:
before the house a wide beach of golden yellow sand; across the green-blue
lagoon and surf -whitened fringing reef lay the darker blue of the open ocean
under a cloud-flecked sky; garden patch to one side; a stream of fresh water
to the rear, superlative fishing out front; tvro hours by boat from here or
from Cock’s Bay to civilization in Papeetel Vfliat more could one ask or want
of French Oceania?

Tlie lovely weather that ushered in this day was rudely interrupted at
supper time by violent gusts of wind from the S.E* — two hours of squalls be-
fore they gave waj^ to a light, as the Captain called it, ”dry” breeze from the
North* At six in the morning of the 13th of May we cleared the Vaiare Pass
for ”home.” At eight vre came to anchor in Papeete. We certainly seemed to be
running head-on into a rainy spell. The luxuriance of the vegetation on all
the islands bespeaks of frequent showers* But what about temperatures? The
average is 77 degrees F; low, 59 degrees and hi^ in May around 84 degrees.

The yearly rainfall totals about 4^ inches of which 29 fs-H in the December -
March period, and 19 inches, April through November*

Day times now we were busily engaged in packing specimens, gear, and
personal belongings* Evenings we were equally busy in other directions as
friends invited us to one farewell party after another — Mrs. Phillips to

K

dinner with Bengt Danielson of Kon Tiki fame and his wife: the i^'^ac^smuths and
their daughter Barbara one night — he was the Chef de Surete for this part of
the French world; Jack and Mrs. Randall and daughter Laurie another evening
aboard the "Nani," and so on.

In fact we were so busy evenings that it had to be breakfast with Mrs.

J, Jacquemin^ secretary to the Syndicat d* Initiative et dii '^ourisir^e de Tahiti^

on cur very last day so that we could see her beautifully, ordered collection

of Tahitian shells. Shell collecting seems to be the

interest^ or Ov

^ v/evn^'

pastime of most everyone It is hard to say who has the best or most

complete collection. Again the Museum the fortunate recipient of some very

choice specimens which Mrs. Jacquemin presented to Dr. Rehder for the Museum's
Division of Molluscs.

The night before leaving on the Teal AiiVAfays amphibian for Fiji by way
of ^itutaki ^toll, all of i\s ^and these friends dinner together at "the

Dhinaman's", with Mrs. James Norman Hall, and our tomorrow's flight crew.

/

We had corresponded with Mrs. Jacquemin in the course of organi2ing this
expedition about facilities^ living conditions^ supplies^ and vessel trans-
port throughout the archipelago. It was our great good fortune also that she
recommended Captain Temarli to us, that we v/ere put in touch with ^ean Bres
whose distillery furnished the alcohol we used, and that she introduced us to
the then Governor who enabled us to obtain that alcohol at government rate.

She also took us to visit the Papeete Museum where the curator Miss Aurora
Natua has on exhibit some exam.ples of native art. Authentic specimens are

/also

well nigh impossible to obtain today. Mrs. Jacquemin is/a very good friend of
Mr* Baldwin-Ba.mbridge, representative of the Matson Lines in Tahiti. Thus it
came a.bout that he invited us to the luncheon, Polynesian style, baked in an
open pit with heated stones, and the hula dance pe'^'fomance at his estate
vrhere this dellfThtful entertainment is staged for the passengers of the Matson
liners during their one day stop-over in Papeete on the way to and from ^*down

under.”

Despite this ”bus3^-ness” night and day, we tried crowding in one last
collecting trip, to Port Phaeton on the southwest side of the so-called Isthmus

This effort was

of Taravao, an appendage or off-shoot of Tahiti proper*
attended, I believe, bv the roughest sea-s yet experienced. Wind and waves
became so bad that the Captain had to call off the venture. He had difficulty
in coming about and heading back to our harbor anchorage. Thi^” maneuver”
as he called it ended our exploratory work in the Society Islands.

Earlier we had also been hospitably entertained by Dr. and Mrs. H. N.

March and daughter Jane. Dr. March was carrying forward the good works of
the China Medical Board which transferred its activities to these islands^ after
this binianitarian health organization had been made unwelcome in Communist
China, ^ere the Foundation is engaged in eradicating from these happy islands
that repulsive scourge, elephantiasis. Their campaign to date has been

remarkably successful^ombating this mosquito-borne disease. One island after
the other is being freed of it. By letter Egbert Walker^ with our Depart-
ment of Botany at the time had introduced us to the Marches. He had been
corresponding with Jane regarding the collection and identification of Society

Island plants.

Not to be forgotten is the personally conducted tour on which Captain
Temarii took us to the leading points of interest in and about Papeete,
including King Pomare*s Tomb, and Point Venus where stands the monument com-
memorating the landing of Cookes Transit of Venus Expediti-on in 17691 And
the delicious home cooked meal of Polynesian dishes with which he and Mrs.
Temarii honored us afterwards: aperitifs, soup, fish, chicken, salad, and a
bountious dish of mixed fresh fruit and melons sprinkled generously mth shrec^d
coconut, several wines, and after dinner coffee.

Among the many who assisted our several endeavours in one way or another
are also to be numbered: Mr. Francis Sanford, teacher of manual arts in the
Papeete High School, Formerly stationed on Bora Bora, he transferred here to

secure advanced education for his children • He had been on Bora Bora for over

17 j’’ears and in that time kept one of the most wonderful guest books I have
seen anywhere^ ■'/irtually every visiting yacht had left a photo, sketch, or
pertinent note in that bookj^ regarding its itinerary^ and personnel. The book
is a veritable history of exploration, adventuring or just plain yachting for

l‘.-a:n-'i

this part of the South Pacific for the period in

question. One discovered many familiar names, ard indeed also some of close,

dear and since departed friends - Karl Schmidt, bert Herre, and others of

the Crane expedition of 1937i Harry Pidgeon had also called there^ the Yankee^

and Gifford Pinchot on the "Mary Pinchot,"

Mr. Sanford like so mny others has a rOTi 5 .rkabl^ shell collection but

his ranges more widely through the island^ We thorough3.y enjoyed his lovely

home and hospitality for the altogether too short time we could spare to visit

collection

him. Ar^€x^ptionally beautiful / was that of**Turia" of whom George T,
Eggleston wrote in his Tahiti ^ Voyage through Paradise . This collection was
mostly of her own gathering. The day we called to see it she had just re-
turned dripping wet from diving for shells in the lagoon, Mr. John Reasin^

Mr. McGonnaughy ^ s agent in Tahiti, deserves more th^n just a word of thanks.

He facilitated all our work and did as much as anyone to make our collecting
the success it was. Here again, a.s many times in the past, I have been moved

to repeat the old, time and shop-worn, cliche "It*s a small world." These

/ h-wvpni

year^I have been a resident of the sovereign state of Ma.ryland and
Johnny Reasin was, during part of that time, a member of that State’s HighvrajT-s
Department in my area/

Though more or less ideal for oun purposes, the "Kareva" did not have
enough room on deck to hold all our chests-^ and crates of gear and supplies
and have sufficient work space i.eft over. We had to leave a lot of them ashore
from which onr stocks aboard were renlenished between island cruises. Most

generously ^Etablisserients Donald Tahiti^’* one of the leading inport-export
firms in the South Pacific^ permitted us to use part of one of their storage
sheds. We are indebted to them for this ■^^ery considerable help as are we also
to Miss Jarire Lagiaesse whom vre met aboard the ’’Mariposa, 2 She vras returning
from a vacation in France, In Papeete she owns one of the leading bicycle

agencies. So after we got tv^rough customs^ and before we got to know Donald

she was able to care for much of our personal impediment

V Du Aia^fj ' TCTC

Mav We be forgiven for not makin
ese, and aTl"^t^ other fri^^div^

fic mentiojvof the helpfulness

weeks in and abou

We came^ we saw^ but in our recollections ^ind that we were con*:;uered by
those lovely Isles of Paradise and the lovely people v^ho live there. As James
Norman Hall has put it: ’’There is a magic about these islands that is time
defying; that loses nothing of its power^ however long continued one’s
association wj..th them may be.” To finish out his thought and heart-felt con-
viction, we add, ”or hovrever long, or far away one ever may be.” He died
in Papeete July 1951 in his 65 th year.

This brief j recapitulation of our goings and comings in French Oceania
recounts very little of the expedition’s scientific results, actual, potential,
and jet to be published^ upon. The worth of this - as of all similar museum,
expeditions - must after all be evaluated in terms of the recorded observations
an'< the scientific study materials brought back for examination and report.

Vie occupied 129 collecting stations — dredging, tow netting, and dip-netting
over the ship’s side vdth the aid of an electric light for plankton, microscopic
organisms of all kinds, larval forms: shore and reef collecting for fishes,
cru.staceans, shells, coelenterates, and such other invertebrates as we came

upon. Yes, we were quite •' onmiverous , ” There v/ere also sdx^ unnumbered mis-
cellaneous collections, 20 soi] samples, some rocks, and several oottom
samples together with Polynesian skeletal remains (comparatively rare Ww
National Collections), several long bones, and three, albeit fragmentary skulls.
A prelimnary count totals over 20,600 specimens of marine invertebrates of
which better than two-thirds vrere mollusks^ 1600 fish, and a few insects and
marine algae. \

Our airflight home — Teal^Pan American — was speedy, comfortable and I
might say verging on the luxurious, with Teal ajnphibian via Aitutaki Atoll,

Apia, Samoa to Suva Fi^i. There we boarded a huge Pan American Constellation
homeward bound from Australia to San Francisco via Canton Island and Honolulu,

In Honolulu, Hay Greenfield formerly with us at the Museim and later wi,th the
Biological Survev in Washington^ and now the Plant Quaranteen stAff there^

welcomed us and our live robber crabs ^ and passed us on to Ciistoms* Debarking
at the San Francisco air port. May 22, 1957 except for returning to Washington
marked the end of another memorable Smithsonian-Bredin Expedition* We and the
Institution are deeply gr^ateful to Mr. and Mrs. J, Bruce Bredin of Wilmington,
Delaware not only for their thoughtfulness and generosity in making the
expedition possible, but also for suggesting it in the first place*

Addendijm

Since the foregoing was written, i^r.» Rehder brought to rrgr attention the
fact that the first Smithsonian expedition bringing back anything of scien-
tific interest from Tahiti was that of our former Secretary, S. Pierpont
Langley in 1901 . He returned from an informal, five weeks recreational
trip to the Society Islands with one of the pumice-like stones from a fire-
walker’s pit. Notes from his diary were published in the National Geographic
Magazine for December the same year, and a more detailed account of the
” fire-walk” ceremony x\^hich he was fortunate in witnessing formed part of the
Appendix to the Smithsonian Annual Report for 1901 ( 1902 ; pp# 539“544« )

Ql , 12 ,

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