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ARCHIjaJnWffeDEKER'
GREAT BRITAIN, with 18 MapiL 39 Plans, and a Ptfioirama.'
Fiflh EdHion. 19QL 10 marks.
LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS, with 4 Maps and 94 Flans.
Thiiteenth Edition. 1902. 0 marks.
THE UNITED STATES, witb an Excussiom into Mexicoi
With 19 Maps and 24 Plans. Seeond Edition. 1899. 12 marks.
THE DOMINION OF CANADA, with Newpoundlajid and
Alaska. WlthlO Uaps and 7 PUns. Second Edition. 1900. 6 marks.
AUSTRIA, including Hungaey, Teansylyania, Dalmatia
AND Bosnia, with 30 Maps and 36 Flans. 9thEd.l90a Smarks.
THE EASTERN ALPS, with 53 Maps, 10 Plans and 7 Pan-
oramas. Tenth Edition. 1903. 10 mark^«
BELGIUM AND HOLLAND, with 14 Maps and 22 Plans.
Thirteenth Edition. 1901. 6 marks.
EGYPT. With 23 Maps, 66 Plans and 59 Vignettes. Fifth
Edition. 1902. 16 marks,
FRANCE. — L PARIS and rre ENVIRONS, with Routes
FROM London to Paris, with 12 Xaps and 36 Plans. Four-
teenth Edition.. 1900. . b marks.
— U. NORTHERN FR/ >10E, with 10 Maps and 34 Plans.
Third Edition. 1899. ' 7 nutrks.
— m. SOUTHERN FRANCE, with 30 Maps, 37 Plans
and a Panorama. Fourth Edition. 1908. 9 marks;
GERMANY. — L BERLIN and its ENVIRONS, with4 Maps
and 19 Plans. 1903. 3 marks.
— IL NORTHERN GERMANY, with 34 Maps and 65 Plans.
Thirteenth Edition. 1900. 8 marks.
— in. SOUTHERN GERMANY, with 22 Maps and 16 Plans.
Ninth Edition. 1902. 8 marks.
— lY. THE RHINE from Rotterdam to Constance, with
45 Haps and 26 Plans. Fifteenth Edition. 1903. 7 marks.
GREECE, with 8 Maps and 15 Plans. Second Edition. 1894. 8 marks.
ITALY. — L NORTHERN ITALY, including LeghornJ
FLORENCE, RAYENKA, with 30 Xaps and 39 Plans. Twelfth
Edition. 1903. 8 marks.
— IL CENTRAL ITALY and ROME, with 11 Maps, 46
Plana and a Panorama of Rome. Thirteentii Edition. 1900. 7 marks 50 tft
— IIL SOUTHERN ITALY, SICILY, etc., with 27 Map!
and 24 Plans. Fourteenth Edition. 1903. 6 markaL
NORWAY, SWEDEN, and DENMARK, with 37 Mang.
22 Plans and 3 Panoramas. Eighth Edition. 1903. 8 marka
PALESTINE and SYRIA, with 20 Maps, 48 Plans, and t
Panorama of Jerusalem. Third Edition. 189S. 12 marks
SPAIN "'^^^JSl'^^^.l''^ ^*^J1 ^'^ '^^ ^'^ Plans. Second
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SOUTHERN FRANCE
INCLUDING
CORSICA
HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS
BY
KARL BAEDEKER
FOUBTH EDITION
WITH 30 MAPS, 36 PLANS, AND A PANORAMA
LEIPSIC: KARL BAEDEKER
LONDON: DULAU AND CO, 37 SOHO SQUARE, W.
1902
All rights reserved
^
* Go, little book , God send thee good passage,
And specially let this be thy prayere
Unto them all that thee will read or hear,
Where thou art wrong, after Hntix help to call,
Thee to correct in any part or all.'
LANDSCAPE
Add to Lib.
3
\30?^
lamdscau
PBEFAOE. «CH-,
Ihe chief object of the Handbook for Southern France, which
inclndes the distriets hitherto dealt with in separate Handbooks for
South -Eastern and South -Western France and corresponds with
the seveuth French editions of these volumes, is to render the
traveller as neaiiy as possible independent of the services of guides,
eommissionnaires, and inn-keepers, and to enable him to employ
his time and his money to the best advantage.
Like the Editor's other Handbooks, it is based on personal
acquaintance with the country described , which has been specially
revisited with the view of assuring accuracy aiid freshness of in-
formation. For the improvement of this work the Editor con-*
fidently looks forward to a continuance of those valuable corrections
and suggestions with which travellers have been in the habit of
favouring him, and for which he owes them a deep debt of gratitude.
Hotel-bills, with annotations, are especially useful.
The contents of the Handbook are divided inti> Six Sbotioms
(I. South -Western France to the Pyrenees; II. The Pyrenees;
III. South-Eastern France to the Loire, Auvergne, and the CXvennes ;
IV. The French Alps; Y; The Rhone Valley, Provence, and the
French Riviera; VI. Corsica), each of which may be separately re-
moved from the book by the traveller who desires to minimise the
bulk of bis luggage. To each section is prefixed a list of the routes
it contains , so that each <»rms an approximately complete volume
apart from the general table of contents.
On the Maps and Plaks the utmost care has been bestowed,
and it is hoped that they will often be of material service to the
traveller, enabling him at a glance to ascertain his bearings and
select the best routes.
Heights and Distanobs are given in English measurement.
It may, however, be convenient to remember that 1 kilometre is
approximately equal to »/g Engl. M., or 8kil. = 5 M. (nearly). See
alsop.^^vi, 742
>•• \
VI
PREFACE.
In tlie Handbook are enumerated both the flrst-class hotels and
those of humbler pretensions. The latter may often be selected by
the 'voyageur en gar^on' with little sacrifice of real comfort, and
considerable saving of expenditure. Those which the Editor, either
from his own experience qr from data furnished by numerous cor-
respondents, believes to be good of their class, are denoted by
asterisks. At the same time the Editor does not doubt that com-
fortable quarters may be obtained in hotels that are unstarred and
even unmentioned. It should be borne in mind that hotels are
liable to constant changes , and that the treatment experienced by
the traveller often depends on circumstances which can neither be
foreseen nor controlled. Although prices generally have an upward
tendency, the average charges stated in the Handbook will enable
the traveller to form a fair estimate of his ei^penditure.
To hotel-proprietors, tradesmen, and others the Editor begs to
intimate that a character for fair dealing and courtesy towards trav-
ellers forms the sole passport to his commendation, and tha't ad-
vertisements of every kind are strictly excluded from his Handbooks.
Hotei^keepers are also warned against persons representing themselves
as agents for Baedeker's Handbooks. '
Abbreviations.
R. — Room^ Route.
A. = Attendanee.
L. — Lfight.
B. = Breakfast.
8. = Supper.
I)^. = Dejeuner (luncheon).
Pens. = Pension, i. «. board
lodging.
Kfmts. = Refreshments.
N". = North, Northern, etc.
8. ^ 8oath, etc.
E. = East, etc.
W. = West, etc.
hr. = hour,
min. = minute.
and
M. = Engl. mile.
ft. = Engl. foot.
fr. s franc.
c. = centime.
omn. — omnibus.
carr. =: carriage.
comp. = compare.
ca. = circa (ahout).
F. A. C. = French Alpine Club.
I. A. G. = Italian Alpine Club.
6. T. D. s Society des Tonrifltes du
Dauphine.
P. L. M. = Paris , Lyon , et M^diter-
ranee (railway).
The letter d with a date, after the name of a person, indicates the
year of hia death. The number of feet given after the name of a place
ehows its height above the sea-level. The number of miles placed before
the principal places on railway-routes and highroads generally indicates
their distance from the starting-point of the route.
Asterisks are used as marks of commendation.
CONTENTS.
Introduotioii.
Page
I. Language xiii
II. Money. Travelling Expenses xiii
III. Period and Plan of Tour xiv
IV. Passports. Custom House. Octroi XTi
V. Railways. Diligences. Carriages xTii
VI. Cycling xx
VII. Hotels, Restaurants, and Caf^s xx
VIII. Public Buildings and Collections xxii
IX. Walking Tours. Guides. Horses . xxiil
X. Post and Telegraph Offices . xxv
XI. Weights and Measures xxvi
XII. Maps xxvi
I. 8. W. France from the Loire to the Pyrenees.
Route
1. From Tours (Paris) to Bordeaux 3
I. From Touru to Poitiers 3
II. From Poitiers to AngoulSme 9
III. From Angouleme to Bordeaux 13
2. From Saumur (Paris) to Bordeaux 14
I. From Saumur to Kiort 14
II. From Niort to Bordeaux 17
3. From Nantes to Bordeaux 20
a. Via GHsson and La Bochelle 20'
b. Via Ghallans and La Bochelle 37
4. From Tours to Les Sables-d'Olonne 28
5. From Orleans (Paris) to Bordeaux vi4 P^rigueux ... 32
I. From Orleans to Limoges 92
II. From Limoges to Bordeaux via Perigueux 38
6. Bordeaux 42
7. From Bordeaux to Royan 53
a. By the H^doe Railway 63
b. By the Gironde 55
8. From Bordeaux to Arcachon 57
9. From Bordeaux to Bayonne and Biarritz 60
viii CONTENTS.
Route Page
10. From Bordeaux to Toulouse 67
11. Toulouse 73
12. From P^rigueux to Tarbes 82
13. From Limoges (Paris) to Toulouse 86
I. From Limoges to Brive 86
a. Vii Uzerche 86
b. Via St. Yrieix 87
II. From Brive to Toulouse 88
a. Via Gahor^ and Montauban 88
b. Via Gapdenac 92
14. From Toulouse to Cette 98
15. From Montauban to Montpellier vi4 Castres. B^darieux,
Paulhan, Lamalou-les-Bains 106
16. From Gapdenac to Rodez and to B^ziers > . 110
II. The Pyrenees.
17. From Bayonne to San Sebastian 115
18. From Bayonne to Toulouse 118
I. From Bayonne to Pau 118
II, From Pau to Lourdes 123
III. From Lourdes to Toulouse 126
19. From Pau to Oloron. Valine d'Aspe 130
20. Eaux-Bonnes, Eaux-Chaudes, and their Environs . . . 133
I. From Pau to Eaux-Bonnes and Eaux-Chaudes .... 133
U. Eaux-Bonnes 134
III. Eaux-Chaudes 136
21. Gauterets and its Environs 139
I. From Lourdes to Gauterets 139
II. Excursions from Gauterets 144
22. Luz, St. Sauveur, and their Environs 149
I. From Lourdes to Luz and St. Sauveur (Bareges) 149
II. Excursions from St. Sauveur 151
23. Bareges and its Environs . . . . ^ 155
I. From Lourdes to Bar&ges 155
II. Excursions from Bareges 157
24. Bagneres-de-Bigorre and its Environs 159
I. From Tarbes to Bagnires-de-Bigorre 169
II. Excursions from Bagn^res 161
25. Bagneres-de-Luchon and its Environs 163
I. From Montr^jeau (Tarbes) to Bagn^res-de-Luchon . 163
U. Excursions from Luehon 167
26. FromBoussens (Toulouse or Tarbes) to Aulus vii St. Girons 175
27. From Toulouse to Foix, Tarascon, Ussat, and Ax . . . 177
28. From Carcassonne to Quillan. Upper Valley of the Aude.
Valley of the Rebenty 182
29. The Eastern Pyrenees 184
I. From yarbonne to Perpignan 184
II. From Perpignan to Villefranche-de-Conflent and Puycerda 187
III. From Perpignan to Am^ie-les-Bains and La Preote . . 190
CONTENTS. it
III. 8. S. France to the Loire. Anvergne. The G^yennei.
Route Page
30. From Paris to Lyons 195
a. Via Dijon and Macon 195
b. Via Severs and Paray-le-Monial 198
c. Vii Nevers and Roanne 903
31. FromParis (Roaiine) to St. Etiemie 204
a. Via Roanne 904
b. Vi& Vlehy, Tbiersiy and Montbrison 306
3X From Nevera (Paris) to Le Puy '210
a. Vda Clermont-Ferrand 210
b. Vi& Vichy, La Ghaise-Dieu, and Darsac 213
33. Clermont-Feirand aad its Eiiyiroaa 214
a. Clermont-Ferrand 214
b. Royat 217
c. Puy de Dome 218
34. La Bourboule. Le Mont Dore and its Environs .... 221
a. La Bourboule ^1
b. Le Mont Dore 293
6. Environs of Le Mont Dore '934
36. Lyons 227
36. From Lyons to Bordeaux 241
a. Via Roanne, Xontln^n, and Limoges 241
b. Via St. Etienne, Clermont-Ferrand, and TuUe. Auvergne 243
I. From Lyons to- Glermont-Fenrand 243
XI. From Clermont-Ferrand to Brive.. Northern Auvergoe 348
ilL From Brive to Perigueux and Bordeaux .... 250
37. From Lyons to Toulouse via LePuy and Aurillac. Southern
Auvergne 250
38. From Clermont-Ferrand to B^ziers, vi& St. Flour and
Millau . 257
39. The Gausses and the Gafton of the Tarn 260
a. From Xende to Sta. Enimie, Le Rosier (Montpetlier-le-
Vieux), and Millau 261
b. From Banassac-la-Canourgue to La MaUoe, Le Rosier
(Montpellier-le-Vieux), aad Millau 264
40. From Clermont-Ferrand to Nimes 267
41. From Nlmes to Montpellier and Cette 269
ly. The Fronoh Alps.
42. From Paris to Chamonix 281
a. By^the Direct KoTrtc : 281
b. Vi& Geneva . . - 288
43. From Annemasee to Martigny via Evian 288
44. From Annemasse to Chamonix via Sixt, the Col d'An-
terne, and the Col du' Br^vent ......... 292
45* Chamonix and its Environs 294
46. From Chamonix <o Gourmayeur vi& the Col du Boohomme
and Col de la Seigne. Tour of Mont Blanc . . . . . 301
X CONTENTS.
Route Page
47. From Chamonix to the Valais 306
a. From Chamonix to Martigny via the Tete-Koire «. . 306
b. From Chamonix to Vernayaz via Finhaut and Salvjin 309
e. From Martigny to Chamonix viA the Col de Balme . . 310
48. From Macon (Paris) to Modane (Turi«) 311
49. Aix-les-Bains and its Environs • . • 316
50. Annecy and its Environs . . . « . 321
51. From Ohamb^ry to Albertville and Moutiers (Tarent«iise) . 327
52. The Upper Valley of the Isere and its MouAtains . . ; 330
I. From Mo utters to Tignes and to Val-d'Is^re, viA fiourg-
St-Maurice : . : . 330
II. Excursions from Tignes and from Val-d^Isere . . . 332
a. From Tignes SSi
b. From Val-d'Is^re . 834
53. From Moutiers to Brides-les-Bains and to Pralognan . . 337
54. The Upper Valley of the Arc and its Mountains ... 343
55. From Lyons to Grenoble (Marseilles) 348
56.* Excursions from Grenoble 355
I. Short Excursions BSb
II. Uriage and its Environs 356
III. The Grande Chartreuse 358
IV. The Gorges d'Engin, de is Bourne, and de la Vernaison.
The Ooulets 361
V. From Grenoble to Gap vi& La Mure ....:.. 362
57. From Grenoble to Chambdry. AHevard and its Environs . 364
58. From Grenoble to Briangon 368
a. By Road : . : 368
b. By Railway 371
59. The Pelvoux Range and its Environs < * . . >. . ; 377
a. Excursions from Bourg-d^Oisans, Oz, and Allemoni . 378
b. Excursions from St. Christophe and La B^rarde 383
c. Excursions from Vallouise and Ailelroide • . 390
d. Exeursions from La Grave and Villard-d'Arene .... 393
e. Excursions from Le Lautaret ......... 396
f. Excursions from Le Monetier 397
60. Valine du Guil. Queyras. Monte Vlso 399
a. From Mont-Dauphin-Guillestre to Abri^ 999
b. From Abries to the Monte Vise 401
61. From Grenoble to Digne and to Puget-Th^niers .... 402
I. From Grenoble to Digne. Basses Alpes 402
II. From Digne to PttfetrThenfera (ISicb') 404
V. The Xhone Valley, Provence, a&d the freneli BWiera.
62. From Lyons to Nfmes 406
a. Vi& Tarascon, on the left bank of the Rhone . . . « 406
b. Vi& Le Teil and Remoulins, on the right bank, of the
Rhone 407
c. Via Le Teil and Alais. Vals-lM-Bains 410
63. Ntmes and its Environs 413
64. From Lyons to Marseilles by th« Rhone Valley .... 420
65. Avignon and its EnvironB 430
CONTENTS. It
Route Fftg*
66. Aries and its Environs 438
67. From Avignon to Aix (Marseilles) ▼!! Pertuis .... 442
68. From Grenoble (Lyons) to Marseilles 443
69. MarseiUes 448
70. From Marseilles to Yentimiglia (Italy) 457
I. From Marseilles to Toulon (Hyeres) 457
II. From Toulon to Yentimiglia 468
71. Toulon. Hyeres 464
72. Cannes and its Environs 471
73. Nice and its Environs 476
74. Excursions from Nice 4S4
a. From Nice to Mentone by the Ooraiebe 4S4
b. From Nice to Orasse 485
e. From Nice to Puget<Th4nie»s (Digne) 486
d. From Niee to 8t. Martin-Y^«bie 487
e. From Kiee to Tanda and Yievola (Ouneo, Turin) ... 488
75. Monaco. Monte Carlo. Mentone 489
I. Monaco 4^
II. Monte Carlo 490
III. Mentone 493
VI. Cortka.
76. Ajaceio and its En-virons 500
77. From Ajaceio to Evisa via Yico and back vi4 Porto . . 504
I. From Ajaecio to Evisa via Yico 004
II. From Evisa to Ajaceio vii Porto 505
78. From Ajacoio to Bonifacio 506
79. From Ajaccioi to Bastia 508
80. From Bastia to Isola Rossi and Calvi 511
a. Yi& Ponte Leecia 511
b. Yia San Fiorenzo 513
81. From Bastia to Capo Corso and back 513
82. From Bastia to Bonifacio 514
Index 515
Xapf.
1. South- Wbstbbx Fbavcb, Ist Sheet, from Tours to Bordeaux, before
the title-page.
3. , 2nd Sheet, from Bordeaux to Perpienan, p. 60.
3. The Ptrbkbbs (1 . 1,000,000), p. 113.
4. The Yall^b d'Ossau and Yalleb d'Azun (1 : 350,000), p. 133.
5. The Ekvibons of Cautbrbts (1 : 100,000), p. 140.
6. The EiSTisoKS op St. Sauvbur, Bar^obs, akd Gavarvib (1:350,000),
p. 148.
7. The €|RQUB db Gavarkib and Momt Perdu (1 : 150.000), p. 153.
8. The YallAes d'Aurb, db Luchon, akd d'Arav (1 : a50,000)jjp. 163.
9. The Smtirohs of Ldchom amd thb Mohts Maudits (1 : 150,000), p. 166
10. AuvntoKB (1 : 500,000). p. 318.
11. The Caussbs (1 : 500,000), p. 360.
12. Savot aud Dauphivt (1 : 1,000,000), p. 376.
XI 1
MAPS ANX) PLANS.
13. The Ehtisoks of Gskbva (1 : 100,000), p. 386.
14. The Valleys of Chamonix and Sixt (1 : 310,000), p. BSBt.
1$. The Lakb op Obmi»va (i : 350,000), p. 368. ,
16. Mont Blanc (1 : 160,000), p. 294.
17. The Emvirons of Aix-lbs-BaINs (1 : 100,000), p. 316.
18. The Ekvisoms OF Anmbct, Lbs Bauqbs, and Aix-lbs-Baibs (1:360,0006)
p. 333.
19. The Tabbntaisb and Maubiennb (1 : 250,000), p. 33r.
20. The Orandb Chartbbusb (1 : 600,000)^ p. 358.
21. The Ob^sitaudan Mountains (1:350,000), p. 368.
32. The Valleys of the Romanchb and the Vbn£oN. Pelvovx -Ran6b
(i : 350,000), p. 378.
33. The RiviBBA, fbom Frbjus to Mbntone (1 : QOOfiOO), p. 460.
34. The Envibons of Toulon (1 : 150,000; inset on the Plan), p. 464.
35. The Emvibons of Nice, Monaco, and Mbvtonb (1:114,000), p. '^4.
36. The Emvibons op Memtonb (1:60,000), p. ^3.
37. Corsica (1 : 350,000), p. 498.
38. Envibons op Ajaccio (1:100^000), p. 600. i
3B. South-Eastebn Fbancb, aft^r the Index.
30. Railway Map op Fbancb (1:7,000,000), at the end of tiie 1>ook.
Plans of Towns.
]
1. Alx (Provence)
Page
. 444
Page
14. Clebmont - Fbb-
35. Narbonnb.
Page
. 103
2 Aix-les-Bains
316
BAND .... 314
36. Nice . .
. . 476
3. Ajaccio . .
500
15. St. ^TiBnMK . ; . 244
27. NiMEs . . .
. 412
4. Anooulemb .
10
16. Gbenoblr . . ' . 350
38. Pau . . .
. 118
5. Arles . . .
. 438
17. Limoges . .... 36
:V. PisblQUBUX .
• . 89
6. AVIONON .
430
18. LouBDEs ... 134
<30. Poitibbs . .
. . 4
7. Bayonne
. 62
19. Lyons .... 328
31. Rochbfobt
. . 28
8. Bezibbs
104
20. Mabseillbs 448
32. Rocbblle, La . 23
9. Biarritz
. 64
31. — (south portion) 466
88. San SIsrastian . 117
10. Bordeaux
. 42
22. Mentoxe ... 402
S4. TouLaN. . .
. : . 464
11. Cahobs .
90
33. Monaco and
36. Toulouse .
. 73
12. Cannes .
470
Monte Cablo . 48'>
36. ViCHY ., .
. 305
13. Carcasson
N£ .
99
24. Montpbllibb . 270
Panorama.
Mont Blanc, prom the FLioibBB
396
INTRODUCTION.
I. Language.
A slight acquaintance with French is indispensable for those
who desire to explore the more remote districts of Southern France,
but tourists who do not deviate from the beaten track will generally
find English spoken at the principal hotels and the usual resorts of
strangers. If, however, they are entirely ignorant of the French
language , they must be prepared occasionally to submit to the ex-
tortions practised by porters, cab-drivers, and others of a like class,
which even the data furnished by the Handbook will not always
enable them to avoid.
II. Xo&ey. TraveUiiig Sxpenses.
MoNBT. The decimal Monetary System ef France is extremely
convenient in keeping accounts. The Baaque de France isstte^
Banknotti of 5000, 1000, 500, 200, 100, and 50 francs, and these
are the only banknotes current in the country. The French Oold
coins are of the value of 100, 50, 20, 10, and 5 francs; Silver coine
of 5, 2, 1, Vt* <^d Vs fr»nc; Bronze of 10, 5, 2, and 1 centime
(100 eentimes =. 1 franc). *Sou' is the old name , still in common
use, fof 5 centimes; thus, a 5-franc piece is sometimes called *une
piece de cent sons', 2 fr. = 40 sous, 1 fr. = 20 sons, '/t tr» =^
10 sons. Italian, Belgian, Swiss, and Greek gold coins are received
at their full value. Belgian, Swiss, and Greek siWer coins (except
Swiss coins with the seated figure of Helvetia) are also cnrrent at
fiiU valne; but Italian silver coins with the exception of the 5- lira
pieces, should be refused. The only foreign copper coins cnrrent
in France are those of Italy and occasionally the Bngllsh penny and
halfpenny, which nearly correspond to the 10 and 5 centime piece
rrapectively.
English banknotes and gold are also generally received at the
full value in the larger towns, except at the shops, of the money-
changers, where a trifling deduction is made. The table at the begin-
ning of tihe book shows the comparative value of the French, Bngllsh,
American, and German curreneies, when at par. Cireuiar Not$» or
Lettert of Credit,- obtainable at the principal English and American
banks, are the most contrenient form for the transport of large snms;
and their value, if lost or stolen, is recoverable.
The traveller should always be provided with small change
xiv U. EXPENSES.
(petite monnaie), as otherwise he may be put to incoDTenience in
giTing gratuities, purchasing catalogues, etc.
Expenses. The expense of a tour in Southern France depends
of course on a great variety of circumstances; but it may be stated
generally that, with the e:|4e|^t)0]| < of tbe principal winter -resorts,
trayelling in that region is not more expensive than in most other
countrifs of Europe. The pedestrian of moderate requirements, who
is tolerably proficient in the language and avoids the beaten track
as much as possible, may limit hift e^qpenditure to 12-15 fr. per
day, while those who prefer driving to walking, choose the dearest
hotels, and employ the services of guides and commissionnaires
must be prepared to spend at least 20-30 fr. daily. Two or three
gentlemen travelling togethef will be able to journey more econom-
ically than a single toUrist, but the presence of ladies generally adds
considerably to the expenses of the party.
III. Period and Plan of Tour.
Season. Most of the districts described in this Handbook may
be visited at any part of the yeatj th<mgh' the plains between
Auvergne and the Pyrenees and the mdre somtherly regions (Rkone
valley, Provence, Mediterranean coast, Corsica) are generaUy disa-
greeably hot in summer. On the other hand, excursions among the
moantains , the Pyrenees and Alps espet^ally, are scarcely poisible
except in summer.
Plan. The traveller is strongly reeomm ended to sketch out a
plan of his tour in advance, as this, even though not rigidly adhered
to , will be found of the greatest use in aiding him to rrgnlate his
movements, to economise his time, and to gnard against overlooking
any plaoe of interest. The districts of which the ]^res«at Handbook
treats are not only richly gifted with natural blauties, they abound
also in architeetural monuttients of great impertanoe^ both anetent
and modem, and contain numerous points of aitistic and historic
interest.
The special bent of the traveller must be the chief agent in de-
termining the plan of tour to be selected , bat the following short
itineraries may at least give an idea of the time required for a visit
to the most attractive points. The tourist starting from London will
find no difficulty in adapting the arrangement to his requirements
by beginning at the places most easily reached from England. An
early start is supposed to be mada each morning, but no night^-trav-
elling isr assumed.- The various tours given below are arranged so
that they may be combined into one comprediaiisive toorof two months
(comp. the Maps). The toarist should car efolly consult the railway
time-tables in order to guard against detentidn at uninteresting
junctions. The points of chief interests are printed in italics.
m. PLAN OF TOUB.
XT
a. T*n Bays ^tw«6n tU L«Im and th« Giroad*.
Days
Tours, Lockesy Tours ... 1
Tours, Poitieriy AngonlSine . 1
Angoulhmty Bordeaux ... 1
Bordeaux 1
Bordeaux^ Royan 1
Rofan, Pons, Saintes . . .
SainUty Roeheftri
Roehefort, La RoeheUe . . .
La Rocbelle, Niort ....
Niort, Loudun, Chinon^ Tours
b. T«n Days in Cantral Franoe and AuT«rf n«.
Days
Aurillae, Gorges of the Cire^
8t. Denis-pris-Hartel, Brite
2 Brive. Pirigueux
P^rigueux, Limoges ....
Limoges, AngtnilimeyBorAMux
(or Limoges, Gbaieauroux,
Orleans)
Orleans (or Tours), Bourges
Bourges, La Bourboule^ Mont
Dore^ Sancy
Mont Dore, Clermont- Ferrand^
Royaty Fup de D6m€ . . .
Clennont, Arvant, Ligne du
Cantaly Aurtilac, . . . .
Clermont - Ferrand , Arrant,
Kenssargues , St. Flour ,
Mende
Mende, Ca%on of the Tarn^
Mbntpellter-Ie-Vieuxy Millau 3
Millau, Biziers I
Bexiers, MontpeUier .... 1
Ten Baya in tke Lefltee and the 0«f«nAea.
Days
Hontpellier, Mmes ....
Ntmes, Aigues-Moriety Ntmes
1 Ntmes, 8t. Oeorge d'Aurae,
Le Puy
Le Fufy St. Etienne ....
St. Etienne, Lyons ....
Dayf
1
1
i
1
1
10
Days
1
1
1
10
Days
1
1
1
1
1
10
d. A. Xvntli in Oaaeeny, Langvedoe, and the PyvenMi.
Days
1
1
1
Bordeaux, Bayonne ....
Bayonne, SiarritZy Bayonne .
Bayonne, San Sebastian . .
San Sebastian, Bayonne, Pau 1
Pan y Eaux - Bonnes , Baux-
Ghaudesy etc., Pau ... 2-3
Pau, LourdeSy Canlerets . . 1
Canterets and its Environs 3-4
Luzy 8t. Sauveury and their
Environs 3-3
Bariges and its En9iii^ons . , 2
Bagnires-de-£igorre .... 1
Bagn^res-de-'Bigorre, BagnimSs-
de-Lu^h&n , 1
Days
Environs of Bdgnires-de-Lu-
ehon 3.4
Bagn^reS'de'Luebon, Toulouse 1
Touloussy Carcassonne ... 1
Carcassonne y Jfarbonney Per-
pignan 1
Perpignauy Carcassonne . . 1
Carcassonne, Castelnaudary,
Castres, Albi 1
Albi, Capdenac, CahorSy Mont-
aubas) 1
Montaubany Agen, Bordeaux
or Pdtignenax 1
26-80
e. A Konth in flkiToy and Saaphiny. ,
Prom Geneva to Chamonix .
Environs of CHamonix . . .
From Cbamonix to La Roehe
and Anneey
Excursion io tbe Lac d' Anneey
and to tbe Semnoz . . .
From Anneey to Aix-les-Bains
and Chambiry
From Ohamb^y to Mhert-
ville . . . : . .
Days
1
2-3
From Albert ville to MoHtierSy
* Brides'les-Bains and Prafo-
gnan
Environs of Pralognan . .
From Pralognan to the Col
de Vaueise and to Thertni-
gnon and Modane ....
From Modane to Montmilian
(Cbamb^ry) and Qrenohle .
Enviwoiu of Oren^le. Excur-
sion to the Grande Chartreuse
Days
1
2-3
XVI
iq;. PLAN OF T0UB.5
B«ys
From Grenoble to Le Bourg-
(fOisant and La Orave . . 1
From La Grave to the Col 4e
la Lauze and Si. Ghriatophe i
Environs of Si. Christophe and
of La B&rarde 2-3
From La Berarde to the Col
de la Temple and Vallouise 1
f. The Same, for Travellers who
Days
From Geneva to Grenoble ^ as
above . . 16
From Grenoble to Uriage and
Bourg - d* Oisana 1
From Bourg - d'Oisans to La
Birarde 1
Environt of La Birarde ^ and
back to Bourg«d'OftB»>8 2
From Bourg - d'Oisans to La
Grave •.. 1
Environs of Vallouise . . .
From Vallouise to BHangon.
Environt qf Brianfon ... 1
From Brian^^pn to Oap^ Gre-
nobUy and Lyons (or Valence^
see below) 3
From Lyons to Dijon ... 1
Days
2
27-30
do not oare for Mountaineerinf .
Environs of La Grave. Thenee
to Le Lautaret . . . . .
Le Lautaret and its Environs
From Le Lautaret to Briangon
From Brian 9on to Gap and
Grenoble
From Granohie to Lpons (or
Valence)
Lyons
Days
1
1
1
1
1-2
37-28
f . Three Weekg in
From Lyons to Vienne and
Valence
From Valence to Orange and
Avignon
From Avigno» to Aries . .
From Aries to Marseilles . .
From Marseilles to Toulou .
From Toulon to Hyeres . .
From Hyires to St. Kaphael
and Cannes ....;.
From Cannes to Grusse and
Nice
Environs of Nice
the Khone Valley and Provence.
Days Days
From Kice to Monaco and
Mentone 1
From Mentone to Frijus and
Marseilles 1
, From |E«rvreilIe» to Aioo^ogiAeu:^
and Aries 1
From Aries to Monipellier f
From Montpellier to Ntmes . i
Excursion to Aigues-Mortes . 1
From Niraes to St. Georges-
d'Aui^ac and Le Puy ... 1
From Le Puy to St. Etienne . 1
From St. Etienne to Clermont-
Ferrand or Lyont .... 1
1
1
1
1
2
1
1
2
1
20
IV. Passports. Custom House. Octroi.
Passports are now diflpeiised with io France, but tbey are
often useful in proving the traveller's identity, procuring admission
to museums on days when they are not open to the public, obtaining
delivery of registered letters , etc. Pedestrians in remote districts,
especially in the mountain frontier districts, will often find that
a passport spares them much inconvenience and delay.
Foreign Office passports may be obtained through C. Smith and Son,
63 Charing Gross ^ Buss, 440 West Strand; W. J. Adams, 69 Fleet St.-, or
the usual tourist-agencies (charge 2s. \ agent's fee is. 6d.).
Sketching, photographing, or making notes near fortified places
sometimes exposes innocent travellers to disagreeable suspicions
or worse, and should therefore be avoided.
CusTaM House. In order to prevent the risk of unpleasant de-
tention at the *douane' or custom-house, travellers are strongly re-
V. BAILWAYS. Jivii
commended to avoid- ^anying with tliera any articles that are not
absolutely neeessaiy. Gigars, tobacco, and matches are ohiefly
sought for hy the custom-house officers. The duty on cigars amounts
to about 13s.,- on tobacco to G-lOs. per lb. Articles liable to dvty
should always be 'decUzed'. Books and newspapers occasionally
give rise to suspicion and may iu certain cases be conflscatoil. The
examination of. luggage generally takes place at the frontier-stations,
and travellers should, superintend it iu person. Luggage registered
to PifiTis is examined on arrival there.
OcT&oi. At the entrance to the larger towns an 'Octroi', or muni-
cipal tax, is levied on all comestibles, but travellers' luggage is usu-
ally passed on a simple declaration that it contains no such articles.
The officials ate, however, entitled to see the receipts for articles
liable to duty at the frontiw.
V. Bailwayfe. BUigenceB. Garriagei.
The districts treated in this Handbook are served mainly by the
lines of .the QrUansy Midi, and Faru'-LyonnMMterran^e railw&ys^
and to a smaller extent by the CK)vernm«nt lines (R^tau de l^Etat),
The &re8 per English mile are approximately: Ist cL 18c.,
2nd cU i2c.^, 3rd el* Be., to which a tax of ten per cent on each
ticket costing mof e than 10 frt is added. The mail trains (*ttiiin»
rapides') generally convey flrst-elass passengers only, and the express
trains ('trc^m express^) first-class and eecond-class only. The firsts-
class carriages are good, but the seeond-clftss are inferior to those in
most- other parts, of £utope and the third- class are not always fur-*
nished with cushioned fteat». The trains are generally provided with
smoking carriages, and in the others smoking is allowed unless
any one of the passengf^rs objects. Ladies' compartments are also
provided. The trains invariably pass each other on the left, so that
the traveller (^an always tell which side of a station his if ain starts
from. The speed of the expressrtrains is about 35-45 M. per hour,
bu^ that of the ordinary trains is often very miich less.
Travellers must purchase theii tickets before entering the waiting
rooms, but, contrary to the custom iu other parts of France, they afe
then permitted free acoesa to the platfosm, and may choose their own
seats in the train. Tickets for intermediate stations are lisually
collected at the^sostle' ; those for tef mini, befbre the station i^entered.
Travellers wjethin France, are allowed 30 kilogrammes (66 Engl, lbs.)
of luggage f^ee of charge; those who are bound iior foreign .countries
are aUowed. 26 kilogr. only (55 lbs.); 10 e« is eharged for booking.
In all cases the heaviet luggage must bebooked) and a ticket procured
for it: thi^boiog done, the traveller need net enquire after his
'impedimenta' until he.anives and presents .his ticket at his final
destination (where they will he kept la safe custody, -eeveral days
usuaUx gratis),. Where, however, a Arontier has to be croesed, the
traveller «hpuld see his luggage cleated at the eustom-house in per*
Babd«kbr*8 Southern Franee. 4th Edit. b
XTill V. RAILWAYS.
son (comp. p. xvti). At most of the railway-stations there is a coitHgne,
or left- luggage office, where a charge of 10 c. per day is made for
one or two packages, and 5 c. per day for each additional article.
Where there is no conHgne, the employees will generally take care of
luggage for a trifling fee. The railway-porters (faeteurs) are not
entitled to remuneration, but it is usual to give a few sous for their
services. — Interpreters are found at most of the large stations.
There are no Refrethmeni Rooms (BufH^ exeept at the principal
stations; and as the viands are generally indiflerent, the charges high,
and the stoppages brief, the traveller is advised to provide himself be-
forehand with the necessary sustenance and consume it at his leisure in
the railway-carriage. Baskets containing a eoH luncheon are sold at some
of the buffets for 8-4 fr.
Sleeping Carriages (Wagons-Lits) are provided on nearly all the main
lines of the great railway-systems. — Traisks dt luxe^ with drawing-room,
sleeping, and dining ears (Wagons-Restaurattts) run, during the season, to
Bordeaux and the Pyrenees, Nice, Geneva, etc.; comp. the Indicateur.
The fares are about 50 per cent higlher than the ordinary first-class
fares. Dej.5fr., D. 6 fr., wine extra (half-a-bottle 1 fr.). — PUUms and
Rugs may be hired at the principal stations (1 fr. eaeh).
The most trustworthy information as to the departure of trains
is contained in the IndiecUewr de$ Chemin$de Fer, published weekly,
and sold at all the stations (85 c). There are aleo separate and less
bulky time-tables CIAvreta Chaix') for the diiferent lines (50 c).
Railway-time is always that of PariS) shown on the cloeks outside
the stations, but the clocks inside, by which the trains start, are Ave
minutes slower. French railway time is 23 min. in advance of
Spanish time and 56 min. behind Central European time , which
is observed by the railways of Switzerland, Germany, and Italy.
Return -tickets (BUlets d' alter et retour) are issued by all the
railway -companies at a reduction of 20-40 per cent. The length
of time for which these tickets are available varies with the
distance and with the company by which they are issued ; those is-
sued on Sat. and on the eves of great festivals are available for three
days. The recognised festivals are New Tear^s Day, Easter Monday,
Ascension Day, Whit-Monday,, the *F*te National (July 14th), the
Assumption (Aug. 15th), All Saints' Day (Nov. 1st), and Christmas
Day. — Special return-tickets, valid for longer periods , are issued
for the various watering-places and summer and winter resorts ; see
the Indieatettr,
Excursion Trains C Trains de Plaisir') should as a rule be avoided,
as the cheapness of their fares is more than counterbalanced by the
discomforts of their accommodation.
Circular Tour Tickets C Billets de Voyages Cireulaires') are of
two kinds, viz. 'd itin^aires fixes' (routes arranged by the railway-
company) and ^d itinerairts facultatifs* (routes arranged to suit
individual travellers). The former are often convenient, as they are
issued at reduced fares , with liberal arrangements as to breaking
the journey, but they are not usually granted to third-cla^s passen-
gers. The latter, though issued for all three classes, are now subject
V. DILIOENCCS. xix
to conditions that practically cancel the ostensible advantages.
Tourists, before purchasing one of the 'facultatif tickets, should
carefully study the regulations in the 'Indicateur' or apply for in-
formation to a tourist -agent or other authority.
The following are some of the expressions witli which the railway
traveller In Franee should be familiar: Railway -station, la gar* (also
V«mkareadir4) ; booking-offlee, I* gukhet or bureau; flrst, leeond, or third
class ticket, tm WUt defnjmkrt^ de second*^ dgtroiiihM elcute; to take a
ticket, prendre un billet; to register the luggage, /aire enreguirer les bagaget;
luggage-ticket, buUettu de bagagt; waiting-room, taUe d*attente; refreshment
room, ie bf^ffet (tklrd-daM refreshment -room, la bu9ene){ platform, ^l«
perron, U trottoir ; railway-carriage, U wagon ; compartment, U <^tnparUmeni^
le coupi; smoking compartment, ^m«tfr« ; ladies* compartment, damet aenles ;
guard, eondncteurt porter, /aeteur ; to enter the carriage, monter en wagon;
take your seailat en vottmrel alight, deicendre; to change carriages, ehmnger
de voiiuref express train to Lyons, le train exprae* pour Lpon, Vexpreu
de Lyon.
Biligenots. The French Diligences, now becoming more and
more rare, are generally slow (5-7 M. per hour), uninviting, and
inconvenient. The best seats are the three in the Coup^f beside the
driver, which cost a little more than the others and are often engaged
several days beforehand. The Jn^eVt«ur generally contains six places,
and in some cases is supplemented by the Botonde, a less com-
fortable hinder-compartment, which, however, affords a good retro-
spective view of the country traversed. The Imp^riale, Banquette,
or roof affords the best riew of all and may be recommended in good
weather. It is adviflable to book places in advance if posalble , as
they are numbered and assigned in the order of application. The
fares are fixed by tariff and amount on an average to about lVt<''
per mile (coup^ extra)* — On the more frequented routes, the dili-
gences are gradually being superseded by Brake$ or large waggon-
ettes. For short distances the place of the diligences is taken by
OmnihuMS, equally comfortless vehicles, in which, however, there
is no distinction of seats. Those which run in connection with the
railways have a fixed tariff, but in other cases bargaining is advis-
able. — Sotel Omnibu$e», see p. xxi.
Hired Oarmffet ( Voiiurea de Louage) m»y be obtained at all the
principal resorts of tourists at charges varying from 12 to 20 fr. per
day for a single-horse vehicle and from 25 to 30 ti. for a carriage^
and-ptalr, with a pcurhoire to the driver of 1-2 fr. The hirers almost
invsf iably demand more at first than they are willing to take, and a
distinct understanding should always be come to beforehand. A
day's journey is reckoned at about 30 M. , with a rest of 2-3 hrs. at
midday. A return-fee is frequently demanded when the carriage is
quitted at some distance from its home. Tourists may sometimes
be able to avail themselves of return -carriages, which charge not
less thaa 10*16 fr. per day. — Saddle Horte$, Anet, and Mule$
may also he hired.
b*
XX VII. ' HOTELS.
VI. CyoUngr.
Cycling is a popular amusement in Prance, and the cycli8t''s
wants are everywhere fairly well provided for. Cyclists entering
France with their machines must obtain from the customs-agent a
cycle-permit (60 c), which must be carried on the person and pro-
duced whenever required. If the cyclist remain more than three
consecutive months in France, he must apply for an official metal
badge, to be fixed on the steering-post. These badges are delivered
f{ee on payment of the necessary fees and the annual tax (6 fr.).
Each cycle must have a badge for each seat and be furnished with
a lamp and bell or horn.
Cyclists In France will find it advantageous to join the Touriti^
Club de France (5 Rue Coq-H^ron, Paris); annual subscription
6 fr. (5s.). The club publishes an Annuairfi (1 fr.), with a list of
cyclists' hotels, repairers, representatives, etc.^ aiid also a series of
Itineraries (5 c. each). -- Members of the British Cyclists' Touring
Cliib i.47 Victoria St., London, S.W.) also enjoy special privileges.
English cyclists and motorists should remember that the rule
of the road in France is the reverse of that in England : keep to the
right on meeting, to the left in overtaking another vehicle.
VII. Hot^U, BestaarantSy and Gi^^.
Hotels. Hotels of the highest class, fitted up with every modisrn
convenience, are found only in the larger towns and in the more
fashionable watering-places, where the influx of visitoxs ife great. In
other places^ the inns generally retain their primitive provincial
characteriBtics , which might prove rather an attraction than other-
wise were it ttbt for the shameful defectiveness of the SA-nitary ar-
rangements. The beds, however, are generally clean, and the cuisine
tolerable. It is therefore advisable to frequent none but the leading
hotels in pUces off the beaten track of tourists, and to avoid being
misled by the appellation of 'Grand-Hdtel', which is often applied
to the most ordinary inns. Soap is seldom or nerrer provided.
The charges of provincial hotels are u&ually somewhat lower than
at Paris, but at many of the largest modern establishments the tariff
is drawn up on quite a Parisian scale. Lights are not generally
charged for, and attendance is often included in the price of the
bedroom. It is prudent, though not absolutely necessary, to enquire
the charges in advance. The following are the average charges :
room i^lt"^ ft.] breakfast or 'premies d^jeunor', consisting of ^caf^
au lait', with bread and butter, 1-174 fr.; luncheon or 'deuxien^e
dejeuner', taken about 11 a. m., 27t''^fr.; dinner, usually about
6 p. m., 3*5 fr. Wine is generally included in the charge for dinner,
except in the most frequented winter-resorts, where everything is
apt to be more expensive than elsewhere. The second dejeuner will
sometimes be regarded as superfluous by English and American
VII. HOTELS. xxi
travellers , especially as it occupies a considerable time during the
best part of the day. A slight luncheon at a caf^, which may be had
at any hour , will be found far more conyenleut and expeditious.
Attendance on the table-d^hdte is not compulsory, but the charge for
rooms is raised if meals are not taken in the house, and the visitor
will scarcely obtain so good a dinner in a restaurant for the same
price. In many hotels visitors are received ^en pension' at a charge
of 6-7 fr. per day and upwards; frequently, however, the 'premier
dejeuner' is not included in that charge. The usual ifee for atten-
dance at hotels is 1 fr. per day, if no charge is made in the bill; if
service is charged, 50 c. a day in addition is generally expected.
When the traveller remains for a week or more at a hotel , it is
advisable to pay, or at least call for the account, every two or three
days, in order that erroneous insertions may be at ooce detected.
Verbal reckonings are objectionable, except in some of the more
remote and primitive districts where bills are never written. A
waiter's mental arithmetic is faulty, and the faults are seldom in
favour of the traveller. A habit too often prevails of presenting the
bill at the last moment, when mistakes or wilful impositions cannot
easily be detected or rectified. Those who intend starting early in
the morning should therefore ask for their bills on the previous
evening.
English travellers often give considerable trouble by ordering
things almost unknown in French usage ; and If ignorance of the
language be added to want of conformity to the customs, misunder-
standings and disputes are apt to ensue. The reader is therefore
recommended to endeavour to adapt his requirements to the habits
of the country, and to acquire if possible such a moderate proficiency
in the language as to render himself intelligible to the servants.
Articles of Value should never be kept in the drawers or cup-
boards at hotels. The traveller's own trunk ia probably safer ; but it
is better to entrust them to the landlord, from whom a receipt
should be required, or to send them to a banker. Doors should be
locked at night.
Travellers who are not fastidious as to their table- companions
will often find an excellent cuisine, combined with moderate charges,
at the hotels frequented by commercial travellers (voyageurs de com-
fnerce, commia-voyageurs).
Many hotels send Omnibuses to meet the trains, for the use of
which i/j-l fr. is charged in the bill. Before taking their seats in
one of these, travellers who are not encumbered with luggage should
ascertain how far off the hotel is , as the possession of an omnibus
by no means necessarily implies long distance from the station. He
should also find out whether the omnibus will start immediately,
without waiting for another train.
Bestanrants. Except in the larger towns, there are few pro-
vincial restaurants in ]france worthy of recommendation tp tourists,
xxll Vm. PUBLIC BUILDINGS.
This, however, is of little importance, as the traveller may always
join the table-d'hdte meals at hotels, even though not staying in the
house. He may also dine a la carte, though not so advantageously,
or he may obtain a dinner aprixfixe (3-6 fr.) on giving V4"V2 ^^.'s
notice. He should always note the prices on the carte beforehand
to avoid overcharges. The refreshment -rooms at railway - stations
should be avoided if possible (comp. p. xviii) ; there is often a
restaurant or a small hotel adjoining the station where a better and
cheaper meal may be obtained.
C^6s. The Cafe is as characteristic a feature of French pro-
vincial as of Parisian life and resembles its metropolitan prototype
in most respects. It is a favourite resort in the evening, when people
frequent the caf^ to meet their friends, read the newspapers, or play
at cards or billiards. Ladies may visit the better-class caf^s without
dread, at least during the day. The refreshments, consisting of coffee,
. tea, beer, cognac, liqueurs, cooling drinks of various kinds {sorbet,
orgeat, sir op de Oroseille or de framboise, etc.)j and ices, are gen-
erally good of their kind, and the prices are reasonable.
Furnished Houses. Furnished Houses and Furnished Apart-
ments are numerous in all the chief watering-places and winter-
stations of Southern France, and may be found to suit every purse.
In all cases a personal inspection should be made before hiring;
and the precautions indicated at pp. 477, 478 should never be
omitted. As a general rule it is advisable to proceed at first to a ho-
tel, and thence direct the search for apartments, though if the trav-
eller's requirements are modest, he may sometimes be able to suit
himself at once with a lodging. Not infrequently the hotel-keepers
are willing to make special arrangements with travellers purposing
to make a stay of some duration.
vm. Public Buildings and Collections.
The Churches, especially the more important, are open the whole
day; but, as divine service is usually performed in the morning and
evening, the traveller will find the middle of the day or the afternoon
the most favourable time for visiting them. In the S. of France it is a
not uncommon practice to close the churches from midday to 2 p.m.
The attendance of the sacristan or 'Suisse' is seldom necessary; the
usual gratuity is Va fr. Many of these buildings are under the special
protection of Government as 'Monuments Historiques' , and the
Ministere des Beaux -Arts has caused most of these to be carefully
restored. It is perhaps not altogether superfluous to remind visitors
that they should move about in churches as noiselessly as possible
to avoid disturbing those engaged in private devotion, and that they
should keep aloof from altars where the clergy are officiating. Other
interesting buildings, such as palaces, ch^Lteaux, and castles, often
belong to the municipalities and are open to the public with little
or no formality. Foreigners will seldom find any difficulty in ob-
IX. WALKING TOURS. xxlli
taining access to priyate houses of historic or artistic interest or to
the parks attached t-o the mansions of the nohlesse.
Most of the larger provincial towns of France contain a Musee,
generally comprising a picture-gallery and collections of various
kinds. These are generally open to the public on Sun., and often
on Thurs. also, from 10 or 12 to 4 ; but strangers are readily admitted
on other days also for a small pourboire. The accounts of the col-
lections given in the Handbook generally follow the order in which
the rooms are numbered , but changes are very frequent.
IX. Walking Tonn. Chude*. HorMs.
WftUdng Tonn. Many fine points in the part of France of
which the present Handbook treats are accessible to pedestrians
alone, and even where riding or driving is practicable, walking is
often more enjoyable. For a short tour a couple of flannel shirts, a
pair of worsted stockings, slippers, the articles of the toilette, a light
waterproof, and a stout u mbrella will generally be found a sufficient
equipment. Strong and well-tried boots are essential to comfort.
Heavy and complicated knapsacks should be avoided; a light pouch
or game-bag is far less irksome, and its position may be shifted at
pleasure. A pocket-knife with a corkscrew, a leather drinking-cup,
a spirit-flask , stout gloves , and a piece of green crape or coloured
spectacles to protect the eyes from the glare of the snow should not
be forgotten. Useful, though less indispensable, are an opera-glass
or small telescope, sewing-materials, a supply of strong cord, sticking-
plaster, a small compass, a phial of ammonia (for mosquito-bites),
a pocket-lantern , a thermometer, and an aneroid barometer. The
traveller's reserve of clothing should not exceed the limits of a small
portmanteau, which can be easily wielded, and may be forwarded
from town to town by post.
The mountaineer should have a well-tried Alpenstock or staff
shod with a steel point ; and for the more difficult ascents an Ice
Axe and Rope are also necessary. In crossing a glacier the pre-
caution of using the rope should never be neglected. It should be
securely tied round the waist of each member of the party, leaving
^ length of about 10 ft. between each pair. Glaciers should be tra-
versed as early in the morning as possible, before the sun softens
the crust of ice formed during the night over the crevasses. Moun-
taineers should provide themselves with fresh meat, bread, and wine
or spirits for long excursions. The chalets usually afford nothing
but milk, cheese, and stale bread. Glacier- water should not be
drunk except in small quantities, mixed with wine or cognac. Cold
milk is also safer when qualified with spirits. One of the best bev-
erages for quenching the thirst is cold tea.
The first golden rule for the walker is to start early. If strength
permits , and a suitable resting-place is to be found , a walk of one
xslv IX. WALKING TOURS.
or two hours may be accomplished before breakfast. It is desirable
to reach the end of the day's walk about midday, but if that is not
practicable, rest should be taken during the hottest hours (12-3)
and the journey afterwards continued till 5 or 6 p.m., when a sub-
stantial meal (evening table-d'h6te at the principal hotels) may be
partaken of. The traveller's own feelings will best dictate the hour
for retiring to rest.
The traveller's ambition often exceeds his powers of endurance,
and if his strength be once over-taxed , he will sometimes be in-
capacitated altogether for several days. At the outset , therefore, the
walker's performances should be moderate, and even when he is in
good training , they should rarely exceed IQ hrs. a day. When a
mountain has to be breasted, the pedestrian should avoid ^spurts',
and pursue the ^even tenor of his way' at a steady and moderate
pace ('chi va piano va sano *, chi va sano va lontano'). As another
golden maxim for his guidance, the traveller should remember that
when fatigue begins, enjoyment ceases.
The traveller is cautioned against sleeping in chalets , unless
absolutely necessary. As a rule the night previous to a mountain
expedition should be spent either at an inn or at one of the club'
huts which the French Alpine Clubs have recently erected for the
convenience of travellers. In the latter case enquiry should be
made beforehand as to the condition and accommodation of the hut,
and whether it is already occupied by a previous party or not. The
convenience of arriving betimes at a hotel, so as to secure good
rooms, etc., is well worth an extra effort on the march.
Over all the movements of the pedestrian, the weather holds des-
potic sway. The barometer and weather-wise natives should be con-
sulted when an opportunity offers. The blowing down of the wind
from the mountains into the valleys in the evening, the melting
away of the clouds, the fall of fresh snow on the mountains, and the
ascent of the cattle to the higher parts of their pasture, are all signs
of fine weather. On the other hand. It is a bad sign if the distant
mountains are dark blue in colour and very distinct in outline, if
the wind blows up the mountains, and if the dust rises in eddies
on the roads. West winds also usually bring rain.
It may be added that the particulars in the Handbook as to the
mountain-expeditions make no claim to absolute and invariable
exactitude. The weather, the state of the snow, etc., no less than
the different inclinations and capacities of travellers, must be taken
into account as variable factors.
Gnides. For all important mountain*expeditions guides are in-
dispensable, except where the contrary is expressly stated; and, above
all, a glacier should never be crossed without an experienced guide.
Oood guides are unfortunately rare; but they are to be found at all
the principal tourist-centres, such as Ghamonix, St. Ghristophe-en-
Qisans, La Grave^ Pralognan, Ti^nes, etc. The usual fee for a day
X. POST AND TELEGRAPH. xiy
of 6 hrs. is 6-8 fr., but on longer or more difficult expeditious 10 fr«
and upwards are charged. At some of the principal centres there
are guide-societies, with fixed regulations and tariffs.
Horses and VnleB. In the Alps a horse or mule costs 10-12 ft.
per day , besides a gratuity of 1-2 fr. , and at Chamonix and some
other places, as much more is charged for the attendant. On the
whole, unless the ascent be very long, it is less fatiguing to ascend
on foot than on horseback ; while a descent on horseback is almost
invariably uncomfortable and fatiguing, and cannot be recommended
even to those who are subject to dizziness.
X. Post and Telegraph Ottoes.
Post Ottoe. Letters (whether *po8te restant^ or to the traveller's
hotel) should be addressed very distinctly , and the name of the
department should be added after that of the town. The offices are
usually open from 7 a. m. in summer, and 8 a. m. in winter, to 9 p. m.
Poste Restante letters may be addressed to any of the provincial
offices. In applying for letters, the passport of the addreissee should
always be presented. It is , however , preferable to desire letters to
be addressed to the hotel or boarding-house where the visitor intends
residing. Letter-boxes (Baites aux Lettre$) are also to be found at
the railway - stations and at many public buildings, and stamps
(timbres-poste) may be purchased in all tobacconists' shops. An
extract from the postal tariff is given below ; more extensive details
will be found in the Almaruieh de$ Poitet et T^l^raphea,
Ordinary Letters within Frsnee, inelnding Coraiea, Algeria, and Tunis,
15 e. per 15 grammes prepaid \ for eountriefl. of Ihe Postal Union 35 c. (The
silver frane and the bronze sou eaeh weigh 5 grammes ; 15 grammes, or
three of these coins , are equal to 1/2 os. English.) — Registered Letters
(lettres recommandies) 25 c. extra.
Post Cards (cartes postales) 10 e. each, with eard for reply attached, 30 e.
— Letter Cards (eartes-kttres) 15 e. \ for foreign countries 35 e.
Post Office Orders (mandats de poste) are issued for most countries in
the Postal Union at a eharge of35'e. for every 35 &. orf^aetion of 35fr.,
the mazimnjm sum for which an order is obtainable being 600 fr. ; for
Oreat Britain, 20 e. per 10 fr., maximum 263 fr.
Printed Papers (imprimis sous bande) : 1 c. per 5 grammes up to the
weight Of 20 gr. ; 5 e. between 30 and 60 gr. ; above 50 gr'. 5 e. for each
&0 gr. or iraetion of 50 gr. ^ to foreign eountries 5 e. per 60 gr. The
wrapper mnst be easily removable, and should not cover more &an one*
third of the packet.
Fareels (e0tts postaux) not exceeding 32 lbs. in weight may be forwarded
by post at a moderate rate (60 e.-lir. 55 e.) wiihin Prance. There is also
a pareel-post between Franee and various foreign couatriest parcels up
to lilbs. being conveyed at a uniform rate : vis, to Germany , Belgium,
Switserland , 1 fr. 10 e. ; Spain , Italy , 1 fr. 36 e. ; Sreat Britain, Austria,
Netherlands , 1 fr. 00 e. These parcels must be sealed. All pareels
should be handed in at the railway - station or at the offices, of the rail-
way-eompttiies, but the post-offices receive them where there are no rail-
wayi for an extra fee of % e.
Tdegnuns. The following are the rates per wotd : for France,
Corsica, Algeria, and Tunis 5 c. (minimum charge 50 c.) ; Luxem-
Xxvi XI. WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.
bourg, Switzerlaud, and Belgium 127t c. ; Germany 15 c.; Nether-
lands 16 c; Qreat Britain, Austria -Hungary, Italy, Spain, and
Portugal 20 c. In these cases the minimum is 5 words, except for
France, etc., when it is 10. In the following cases there is no mini-
mum: Denmark 24V2C. ; Sweden 28 c.; Roumania, Servia, etc.,
28V2<5«; Norway, 36 c; Russia in Europe 40 c. ; Greece 53V»-57 c. ;
Turkey 53 c; New York 1 fr. 25 c; Chicago 1 fr. 55 c.
Lyons, Marseilles, and other large towns have also Telephonic
Communication with Paris.
XI. Weights and Measures.
(Iq use sinee 1799.)
The English equivalents are given approximately.
Kilogramme, unit of weight, = 2V5 lbs. avoirdupois =-
2Vio l^s. troy.
Quintal ==: 10 myriagrammes = 100 kilogrammes = 220 lbs.
Hectogramme (i/,o kilogramme) r= 10 decagrammes = 100 gr.
= 1000 decigrammes. (100 grammes = SVs oz. ; 15 gr.
— Va oz. ; 10 gr. = Vs oz- ; "^Vx gr- — V4 ^z.
Kilometre = 1000 metres = 5 fHirlongs = about Vs Engl, mile
Hectometre = 10 decametres i= 100 metres.
Metre, the unit of length, the ten-millionth part of the spher-
ical distance from the equator to the pole = 3.0784 Paris
feet t= 3.281 Engl, feet — • 1 yd. 31/3 in.
Decimetre (7io metre) = 10 centimetres = 100 millimetres.
Hectare (square hectometre) = 100 ares = 10,000 sq. metres
= 2V2 acres.
Are (square decametre) = 100 sq. metres.
Hectolitre = */io cubic metre = 100 litres = 22 gallons.
Decalitre = 7ioo cubic metre *= 10 litres 2V6 g*ls.
Litre, unit of capacity, = P/^ pint; 8 litres = 7 quarts.
The thermometers commonly used in France are the Centi-
grade and Reaumur's. The freezing-point on both of these is
marked 0**, the boiling-point of the former 100*", of the latter 80*",
while Fahrenheit's boiling-point is 212^ and his freezing-point 32°.
It may easily be remembered that 5 Centigrade = 4° Reaumur
-= 9° Fahrenheit, to which last 32° must be added for temperatures
above freezing. For temperatures below freezing the number of de-
grees obtained by converting those of Centigrade or Reaumur into
those of Fahrenheit must be subtracted from 32. Thus 5° C =
4° R. = 9 + 32 = 41° F.; 20° C = 16° R. = 36 + 32 = 68° F.
Again, - 5° C = - 4° R. = 32 - 9 = 23° F.; - 20° C = -
16" R. — 32 - 36 = - 4° F.
Ixvii
xn. Maps.
The best maps of France have hitherto been the Cartes de VEtat-
Major, or Ordnance Maps of the War Office. One series of these is
on a scale of 1 : 80,000, and includes 273 sheets, each 27: ft. long and
IV2 ft. wide, while another, reduced from the above, is on a scale of
1 : 320,000 and consists of 33 sheets (1 for 16 of the others) or 27
for France proper. These may be had either engraved on steel (2 fr.
per sheet) or lithographed (50 c). The engraved maps are con-
siderably clearer in the mountainous regions, but the lithographs
are good enough for ordinary use. The larger scale map is also
issued in quarter sheets (1 fr. engraved, 30 c. lithographed). The
War Office has undertaken farther two new series of maps, printed
in five colours ; one on a scale of 1 : 50,000, and one on a scale of
1 : 200,000.
There is another map in five colours, on a scale of 1 : 100,000,
published in 1881-1894 by the Ministry of the Interior (85 c. per
sheet) ; another (1 : 200,000) is issued by the Ministry of Public
Works (40 c. per sheet) ; and a third (1 : 500,000) by the D^pdt des
Fortifications (1 V, ^' po^f sheet).
The War Office has also issued two series (1 : 80,000 and 1 : 320,000)
of maps of the Frontier Alps, printed in three colours and extending
beyond the borders of France, which the others do not. Each sheet
(50 c.) corresponds to a quarter-sheet in the Cartes de I'Etat Major.
An excellent special map of Mont Blanc (1 : 50,000), by*Barbey
and Imfeld , was published in 1896 in four colours (8 fr.). Mieu-
let's Map (1865 ; 1 fr.) may also be recommended.
The best map of Dauphiny is that by H. Duhamel (two general
sheets on a scale of 1 : 6()0,000 and 1 : 250,000; four special sheets
on a scale of 1 : 100,000), of which a revised edition was issued in
1892 (4 fr. 50 c).
All these maps may be obtained in the chief tourist-resorts, but
it is advisable to procure them in advance. The following shops in
Paris have always a full supply on hand : Barrlre, Rue du Bac 4 ;
Baudoin, Rue et Passage Dauphine 30.
The catalogue of the Service Geographique de TArmee (1 fr.) contains
key-plans of ita maps, including also those of Algeria, Tunis, and Africa
generally (separate parts 10c. each; Algeria and Tunis 25c.). Barr^re^s
catalogue (gratis) has key-plans of the 1:80,000, 1:200,000, and 1:320,000
ui&ps-, and key-plans of the 1 : 100,000 map may be obtained at Hacbette^s,
Boulevard St. Germain 9. and of the Public Works' map at the Libralrie
Delagrave, Rue Soufflot 15.
SOUTHERN FRANCE.
I. FROM THE LOIRE TO THE PYRENEES.
1. From Tours (Paris) to Bordeaux ,.,.... 3
L From Tours to Poitiers 3
From Port-de-Piles to Le Blane, 3. — From Chatelle-
rault to Tournon-St-Kartin (Le Blanc), 4. — From
Poitiers to Kantes; to La Boehelle (and Roehe-
fort); to Limoges via Bellae^ to Argenton, 8, 9.
II. From Poitiers to AngoulSme 9
From St. Saviol to Lussac-les-Ch&teaux ; to St. Jean-
d*Ang€ly, 10. — From Angouldme to St. Jean-
d*Ang^ljr; to Salutes ; to Kib^rac; to Limoges.
Kontron. Roebechouart-Chalus, 12, 13.
III. From AngoulSme to Bordeaux 13
From Coutras to Cavlgnae. Fronsae, 13. — From
Hareenais to Libonme, 14.
2. From Saumur (Paris) to Bordeaux 14
I. From Saumur to Niort 14
From Parthenay to H^nlgoute, 16. — From Klort
to Buflfee, 17.
II. From Niort to Bordeaux 17
From St. Jean-d*Aag4lT to Cognac, 17. — From Pons
to Royan^ to La Greve (Bonce-les-Bains), 19. —
From St. Andr^-de-Gubzae to Blaye and St. Ciers-
Lalande, 90.
3. From Nantes to Bordeaux 20
a. Vifi Glisson and La Rochelle ...... 20
The Marais, 22. — From La Roebelle to the He
de B^. From St. Laurent-de-la-Pr^e to Fouras) He
d'Enet; He d'Alx, 25. — From Roehefoit to Le
Chapus, 26. — He d'Ol^rqn, 27.
b. Vi& Challans and La Rochelle 27
From Challans to Koirmoutier^ to the He d*Yeu,
27. — From Commequiers to St. GlUes - Croix-
de-Vle, 28.
4. From Tours to Les Sabies-d'Olonne ...... 28
From Ghlnon to Port-Boulet y to Port-de-PUes, and
to Biehelieu, 28. — From Loudun to Angers \ to
Chatellerault; to Poitiers, 29. — Oiron. From
Brestfuire (Angers) to l^lort; to La Rochelle, 30.
5. From Orleans (Paris) to Bordeaux via P^rlgueux . . 32
I. From Orleans to Limoges 32
From VierKon to Tours, 32. — From iMouduu to
St. Florent, 33. — D^ols. From CK&leauroux to
Baedeker.. Southern Franee. ith Edit. i
Tours ; to Montlu(on, 36. — Environs of Argen-
ton. Crozant, 86. — From Limoget to Ussel (Cler-
mont-Ferrand), 38.
II. From Limoges to Bordeaux yH P^rigueuz . . 39
From TMviers to Brive, 39. — From P^rigueux to
Riberac; to St. Pardoux; to St. Yrieix, 41.
6. Bordeaux 42
From Bordeaux to Eynliet ; to Gadillae •, to Gahors, 59.
7. From Bordeaux to Royaii 53
a. By the M^doc Railway 53
b. By the Gironde 55
St. Georges-de-Didonne. UgtathoniB'A of Gbrdouan.
Grande Gdt«, 67.
8. From Bordeaux to Arcachon 57
The Landes, 57. — From Facture (Areaebon) to
Lesparre (Royan)-, to Luxey. From La Teste to
Gazaux, 58. — Cape Ferret, 59.
9. From Bordeaux to Bayonne and Biarritz .... 60
From Moreenx to Tarbes; to Uza, 60. — From Dax
to Pau, 69. — From Bayonne to St. Jean-Pied-de-
Port and Roneevaux, 66.
10. From Bordeaux to Toulouse 67
From Beautiran to Hostens. From Langon to Bazas,
67. — From Karmande to Bergerac; to Kont-de-
Marsan. From Toiineitas to Cahors, 6B. -^ From
Port-Ste-Harie to Mont-de-Maraaa. From K^ae
to Riscie, 69.
11. Toulouse 73
From Toulouse to Anah \ to Bouiogne-Sur^Oesse, 82.
12. From P^rigueux to Tarbes (Pyrenees) 82
Orotto of Miremont. From Le Bulsson to St. Denis-
pres-Martel, 83.
13. From Limoges (Paris) to Toulouse 86
I. From Limoges to Brive 86
a. ViaUzerche 86
b. Vi4 St. Yrleix , ... 87
From Brive to Aurillac, 88.
II. From Brive to Toulouse 88
a. Via Cahors and Montauban 88
b. Via Capdenac 92
Causse de Oramat. Roeamadour, 93. — From Cap-
denac to Cabors, 94. — From Lexos to Montau-
ban. From Vindrac to Gordes, 95. -^ Ptom
Tessoni^es to AIM, 96.
14. From Toulouse to Oette 98
St. Papottl. From Castelaaudary to Castres, 98. —
From Moux to Caunes. Excursions among the
Corbieres, 101. — Firom Ifarbonne to Bize, 109^. —
S6rignan. From Briers to Montpeniev vi& Paml-
han; to HontpelUer vi& M^ze; to St. Chinian
(St. Pona), 104^ 105.
PORT-DE-PIUBS. /. BouiM U 3
15. From Montauban to Montpellier vi& Castres . . . 106
Lamalou-les-6ains. B^darieux. Paullian . . 106
From Castretr to Garmauz (Kodet) ▼!& Albi; to
Laeauae. Montagne Kotret 107. — From St. Pons
to Ghinian \ to La Salvetat, 106. — Excursions from
Lamalou. From Faulban to Lod^ve, 109.
16. From Capdenac to Rodez and to B^ziers . . . .110
' From Viviez to Decazeville. Conques, 110. — From
Bertholfene 1o Espalion, 1I!3.
1. From Tours (Farii) to Bordeaux.
2131/2 X- to the La Sattide station, 318 M. to St. Jean (see below).
Railway in 5Vo-8Va brs. (fares 38 fr. 56, 26 fr., 16 fr. 96, or 99 fr. 80,
26 fr. 55, 17 fr. SO e.). Bordeaux has two principal stations , the Oare de
la Bastide on the right bank of the Oaronne, and the Gore du Midi or
St. Jean, in a suburb on die left bank, for travellers proceeding farther
to the S. on the main line (comp. p. 43). Travellers with through-tiekets
are allowed 48 hours in the town on condition of presenting their tickets
for examination on arrival, but they cannot remove luggage that has
been registered to their ultimate destination.
Fr0m Parii to Bordeaux vid Towft 369-363 H., in Tl/g-U hrs. The trains
start from the Quai d'Orsay at Paris and run via OrUan^^ Blots, and
Amhoige. The express trains do not enter Tours station \ passengers for
Tours change carriages at St. Pierre-des-Oorps (see below). There is also
a service of trains de luxe, in 7 hrs., by which the fares are 50 per cent
higher than the ordinary Ist cl. fare («. ff. to Bordeaux- St- Jean, 98 fr. 35 c);
d^j. 5, B. 7 fr. in the restaurant car. — A sleeping-car ticket by the
ordinary night-express costs 24 fr. in addition to the fare.
I. From Tonrt to Poitieni.
61 M. Bailwat in U/s-Shra. (flures 11 fr., 7 fr. 40^ 4 fr. dOe.).
TaurSy see Baedeker*8 Northern France. — Trains in connection
witb the express proceed to tbe (2 M.) station of St. Pierre-des-Corpa
on the line from Paris (see above). Slow trains make use of a loop«-itne.
After crossing the Cher, we pass over a viaduct from wbich there
is a fine view and cross the line to Chateauroux (p. 33). To the
left is the handsome Chdteau de Cande (16th cent.). The valley of
the Indre is next crossed by a viaduct , Vt ^* l^i^g and 69 ft high,
which affords another fine view. — 7 M. Monts. Beyond (12V| M.)
Villeperdue is another viaduct, 102 ft high, over the Maneei on the
right, the Chdteau de Brou. — 20 M. Ste, Maure, a little town 2 M.
to the left — 27 M. Port-de- Piles. Branch-line to Chinon, see p. 28.
Fbom PoBT-DE-PiLBs TO Ls Blakc, 411/2 M., railway in 21/4 hrs. (fares
7 fr. 50, 5fr. 6, 3 fr. 30 c.). The line ascends th«» valley of the Creuse,
then that of the Glaise, and finally returns to tbe Oreuse. — 6 M. LaHoffe-
DesearUs, the birthplace of Descartes (1596-1650), tbe celebrated pbiloao-
pher, to whom a statue has been erected here. — 13 M. LeQrand-Pressigny,
with a keep of the 12th and a castle of the 17th century. — 23X. Freuilly
has a fine Itomanesque abbey-church. — At (SlVs H.) Tournoni-St-Uartin
our line is joined by the branch from Gh&tellerault (see p. 4). — Beyond
4 J. BouU L POrriERS. From Towtb
(36 H .) FontgombauUy which also has a remarkable old abbey-ehureh, we
rejoin the Poitiers line. — 4IV2 ^^ ^ Blane (p. 9).
We cross the Crcuae and ascend the valley of the Vienne,
40 Vs M. Gli&teUeranlt CH^^ de I'Esperance; del* Univers), a town
on the Vienne with 20,014 inhab. , famous for its cutlery and for
its Arms Factory (no admission). The Boulevard Carnot, to the left
from the station , and then the Rue de Berry, to the right, bring us
to the Boulevard Blosaac, in the middle of which is the church of
St. Jean- Baptist e, in the Gothic style of the 15th cent., containing
fine carved altars and a bell presented in 1897 by the Emperor of
Russia. At the end of the Boulevard is the Square Gambetta, with
a tall Montmient of the Bevolution, by Dudoit (1890). The Rue des
Mignons (near 4ht Square) leads to the church, of St. Jacques^ of
the 13th cent., with a rich modern W. front. — Line to Loudun,
see p. 29.
A braneh-line runs henee to (flSVs M.) Toumon-St-MarUn (see p. 3),
via La Roehe-Potapy a little town on the Creuse, with a 12th eent. keep.
In the neighbourhood is a mineral spring, wiUi a bath-establishment.
We next cross the Vienne and ascend the valley of the Clain.
— 46 M. Les Barres, In the neighbourhood is the site of Vieux-
Poitiers, and farther on, also on the right bank, is Mousaais-la-
Bataille, the probable scene of the famous battle of Poitiers (see
p. 5). — Beyond (49 M.) La Tricherie, on the left, is the castle
of Baudimentf a curious edifice of the 15th cent, (restored). —
51 Vt^* Dissais-siir- Vienne, with a fine castle of the 16th and
18th centuiies. — 54 M. Clan; 56 M. Chasseneuit. On the right is
the line to Bressuire (see p. 30).
61 M. Poitiers (Buffet). — Hotels. Hotel du Palais (PI. a; B, 3),
near the Palais de Justice, R. 31/2^ !>• 3fr. ^ pb Fsakcb (PI. b; B, 4), ds
l'Eukopb (PI. d; B, 4), both well spoken of, R. 31/2^ ^- 3 f^\ i>b8 Trois
PiLiBRS (PI. e; B, 4), eommereial, R. 3, D. 3fr. ; the last three in the Rue
CSarnot, near the Place d'Armes. — •Tbrmimus (PI. e ; A, 4), R. 2, D. 21/2 fr. ;
Tribot (PI. f; A, 4), well spoken of, both near the station. — Caf6s in the
Rue Gamot and in the Plaee d'Armes. — Cabs. Per drive >/4, per hr. IV2 f^- \
with two horses IV4 and 2 fr. ; at night 50 e. extra. — Tnunwajni (steam)
from the station to the left round the Boulevard* to the Pont Nettf (PI.
D, 3. 3); to the right to St. Martin -V Art -^ and (electrie) hj the Boulevard
Sol/irino to the Place d'Armes and thenee to La Tranehie^ on the S.W.
Poitiers , with a pop. of 39,565, the ancient capital of Poitou
and now the chief town of the department of theFi^wnc, is the seat
of a bishopric and possesses also a university, with a school of law,
founded in 1431. It is situated on a hill at the confluence of the
Clain and the Boivre, and most of the streets are narrow, tortuous,
and steep. The limited trade of the town and the fact that it is
largely occupied by religious foundations combine to make it rather
a dull place, but it has some objects of Interest which every tourist
should endeavour to see.
Poitiers first appears as a Oeltie town, the capital of the Piet0ne» or
Pietaviy whence its modern name. To the Romans it was known as Li-
monvm. About 363 St. Hilary (not to be confounded with his namesake
of Aries) became its first bishop. Poitou was included in the Visigothie
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to Bordeaux, POITIBRS. /. Mouie 1. 5
kingdom of Aqttitaine, founded in 419, bat After the defeat of Alarie II.
by Cloyis at Vouille, in 507, it was added to the Frankish dominions
and constituted a eountship whose holders afterwards made themselves
dukes of Aqnitaine. One of these dukes is said to have Inrlted the
Saracens into this part of the country , but be this as it may. it was
within 20 H. to the N.W. of Poitiers that Charles Martel in 732 finally
broke the power of the Moorish invaders. By the marriage of Eleanor,
sole heiress of Poitou and Aquitaine , to Louis VII. of France these im-
portant provinces became part of the royal dominions. On her divorce
and re-marriage to Henry Plantagenet in 1162 they passed, unhappily for
France , into the power of England. The most important event In the
two centuries of strife which succeeded is the Battle of Poitiers (or
Maupertuis ; p. 9) in 1356, when John the Good was defeated by Edward the
Black Prince and lost more than 11,000 men. By the treaty of Br^tlgny
(1360) Aquitaine, and with it Poitou and other counties, passed in full
sovereignty to Edward III., but the country between the Loire and the
Garonne was finally won back in 1372 by the Constable Bertrand du Gues-
clin. The Protestants under Coligny unsuccessfully besieged Poitiers for
even weeks in 1569.
Quitting the station (PI. A, 4), which is situated in the lower
part of the town , pedestrians reach the centre foy the Rue de la Visi-
tation, ascending a flight of about 100 steps to the right from the
Boulevard Solf^rino. Turning again to the right at the first cross
street, they reach the square in front of the Prefecture (PI. A, B, 4),
whence the Rue Victor Hugo leads to the Place d'Armes (P1.B,3,4),
a large square forming the centre of the town. On the right side of
the Rue Victor Hugo is the Ecole Libre de la Orand^ MaUon (PI.
B,4), with an elegant chapel; on the left, Mo. 9, is the Mutee des
Augustint, of the Soci^t^ des Antiquaires de I'Ouest.
The Museum (admission on application) contains tapestry, furniture,
enamels , porcelain , and paintings , including a landscape erroneously
attributed io Hobbema; a Holy Family by Oiulio Romano ; St. John the Bap-
tist of the Lombard School (t not L. van Ltyden) <, Witch-scene after Tenitr% ;
Battle-scenes by Bourguignen'^ etc.
The same society has an important Afvsevm of Roman and other anti-
quities in the Bue des Grand es-£coles (PI. B, 3^ ^Soci^t^s Savantes*), open
on application.
In the Place d'Armes is the H6tel de Ville (PL B, G, 3) , a hand-
some building in the style of the French Renaissance, by Gu^ri-
not (1869-74). It contains the Mtia/e des Beaux -Arts and the
Musee d'Histoire NattM-elle, open dally from noon to 4 p. m., but
always accessible to strangers.
The Mus^B DES Beaux-Akts contains an important collection ofpaintings
by French artists^ also a fine portrait by Tintoretto (No. 114), a Mary Mag-
dalen by Titian (no number) . and works attributed to A. dtl Sario (117),
Van Dyck (133, etc.), Masaceio (109), Ouido Rem (104), etc. •, besides sculptures
(one by Jean Ooujon)^ antiquities, furniture, enamels, coins, etc. — The
Staircase is adorned with caryatides by Barrias and frescoes by Puvi$ de
Chavannes. — In the Salle des Fetes the stained glass and the ceiling-
painting (Duguesclin freeing Poitiers from the English, by Brunei) should
be noticed. — The ceilings of the Salle du (DoltsEiL and the Salle des
Marriaoes are decorated by L4on Perrault,
On the right, behind theH6tel de Ville) is the pretty Hdtel Bauce
or Oaillard, in the German Renaissance style (1554). In the vici-
nity is the Lye^e (PI. G, S-4), with a painting by Finsonius, a pupil
of Oarave^gio (1615), and 17th cent wood-carvings.
6 I. Rowte i. POrriEBS. From Tburt
The Temple St. Jean (PI. 0, 3) , reached vlA the Rue du Pay-
garreau and Rue du Pont-Neuf, is a curious structure , now identi-
fied as a haptistery of the 7th century, partly huilt of Oallo-Roman
materials. In plan it is an oblong of about 42 ft. by 26 ft. ; the floor
is for the most part below the present leyel of the street. The interior
(apply, in the absence of the concierge, at No 7 Rue du Pont-Neuf)
contains a font in the centre and sarcophagi, etc., of the 6-9th cent.,
aud some 12th cent, frescoes.
The Cathedral {St, Peter's; P1.C,D,2) was begun in li62 by
Henry JI. of England (p. 5), but the church was not consecrated
until 1379. Some parts are Romanesque, but the Early Gothic style
predominates. The facade (recently restored) is too wide and too
low and the unfinished towers which flank it increase its heavi-
ness. The interior is imposing on account of the boldness of its
proportions and the height and width of its aisles and bays. To
make it appear longer than it actually is the architect has increased
the effect of the perspective by lessening the width of the nave and
aisles and by lowering the arches towards the choir. Some of the
stained glass dates from the 12-13th cent., while the fine choir-
stalls are from the latter half of the 18th.
From the rear of the cathedral we descend to the right to ftte.
Badegonde (P1.D,2), a church founded about 560 by the queen of
that name, wife of Clotalre I., who had retired hither to her convent
of Ste. Croix. It was, however, rebuilt in the ll-13th cent, in the
same style as the cathedral, except the main entrance, which belongs
to the 15th or 16th century. A Romanesque steeple (11th cent.) rises
from the facade. Specially noteworthy within the church are a Crypt
containing the sarcophagus of St. Radegonde (an object of pilgrim-
age), and a marble statue of the saint (a portrait of Anne of Austria),
by Nic. Legendre. On the right of the nave is a kind of niche called
the chapel of the Pas-de-Dieu, with two poor statues, between which,
on the pavement, is afoot-print, made, according to the legend, by
our Lord when he appeared to St. Radegonde. Fine stained glass.
This church is near the Clain , which is spanned by the Pant
Neuf, to the right, and by the old Pont Joubert, to the left.
On the opposite bank are the colossal gilded statue of Jfotr* Dame des
Dunes (PI. D, 2) and a barrack. A little lower down a Gallo-Roman Ne-
eropolU bas been discovered^ and a Champ des Martyrs^ with the remains
of a hypogsum, now filled up.
In the suburb of St. Saturnin, 3/^ K. from the Pont Keuf, via the third
street on the left, if a dolmen known as the Pierre-Levie.
We re-ascend into the town by the Rue du Pont Joubert, con-
tinued by the Grande Rue St. Michel, which leads us straight to —
*Notre-Dame-la-Oraiide (PL B, 2), a very interesting monument
of Romanesque architecture dating from the end of the 11th cent.,
with additions of the 15th and 16th. This church is noted for its
* West Fapade^ which, like that of Angouleme cathedral (p. 11), has
all the elaboration of detail which we associate with the repouss^
to Bordeaux, POITIER& /. Bm»U L 7
work of the goldsmith. It is composed of three tiers of arches, in
the lowest of which are inserted a round-headed door and two ob-
tusely po'inted Mind ones subdivided into two semioireular arcades.
The uppermost tiers, broken by a large window, contain mutilated
statues of St. Hilary, St Martin, and the Apostles, and in the gable-
end is one of Christ in the act of blessing, surrounded by the em-
blems of the Evangelists. There are also bas-reliefs with subjects
drawn ehie0y from the life of the Virgin. This facade is flanked by
turrets with conical tops and flsh-scale ornamentation. The steeple
of the church, with a similar top, is at the entrance to the choir.
The IvTEBiox, dia^gured by modern paintings of eoarse tone, is divided
into nave and aisles, the former having a barrel vault, the latter being
groined. The side-ehapels were added in the 15th and 16th centuries.
There is no transept, but the aisles are prolonged round the ehoir. The
latter eontains the remains of a 13th cent, fresco on its vault and a fine
modern hicEh-altar in the Romanesque style. In a chapel on the right
is a ^Holy Sepulchre* of the 16th century.
The Unitebsitt (PI. B, 2), near Notre -Dame, was altered and
enlarged in 1892-94. It has about 750 students.
It contains the UniveriUjf Library and also the Jfknieipal Xt6rary, of
nearly 65,000 roU. and 460 MSS., including a Life of St. Radegonda by
St. Fortunatus (9th cent.) and other early specimens.
ThePaliUB dB Justice (P1.B,3), a little beypnd Nptre-Dame, on
the left, includes , behind some late additions , remains of the old
castle of the counts of Poitou (14th cent.). The *SaUe de» Pcu-
PerdtiSf the old guard -chamber, 160 by 56 ft., recalls that of the
Palais de Justice at Rouen. At one eiul is a carved triple chimney-
piece, surmounted by a gallery and five windows, all in the Gothic
style of the 15th cent., between two staircase-turrets.
The Pbovost's Covilt {Prevdie; PI. A,B,2), a building of the
15- 16th cent. , now a school, has a very remarkable facade, witii
four turrets and some fine pediments over its windows.
At the N. end of thB town stands the church of Montiebneup
(PI. A, 1), an ancient church of the Benedictines, of the 11th cen-
tury. It has a little cupola above the crossing , surmounted by two
bell turrets which are eoiineeted by three arches.
Between the Palais de Justice and t^e Place d'Armes is St. Pot-
chaire (P1.B,3), a church of the 16th cent., with a Romanesque
tower , dating from aa older building. — To the S. is Si. Hilaire
(P1.B,5), founded, it is said, before the 6th cent., rebuilt in the 11th
and 12th, and partly in 1855-^70. It consijBts of a nave and six aisles
and has 6 cupolas. The facade and tower are modern (unfljii0faed).
The PjlBO de Blossao (PI. B, C, 5, 6)^ at the S. end of the town,
a prooienade Laid out in the 18th cent., commands a ilne view of the
Olain valley, on which side it is bordered by the remains of the old
14th century Bamparfs, which extend some way westward between
the town anid the ra^iiwuy. At the entrance from the JBue des Capu-
cins are two marble groups by Etex, representing the Joys and
^9rrQW8 Qf Motherhood. Military band on Sunday and Thursday,
8 /. R<mH h 0H01.BT. Fr(nn I'owra
From Poitiers to loudun (Angers) see p. 39; to La Roch€tt« and
Rochefort^ see R. 3.
From PoitibIxs to Kautbs, 13611., railway in A'A-T^^^ J^M. (Aires 30 fr. 70,
15 fr. 36 6., 10 fr.). — lOi/a H. ^««vtU«.<2«.F«t<otf, the junetion of the Londun
line (p. SO). — 14 H. Villiers- VouilU. Vouill^ where Glovis defeated Alarie II.,
king of the Visigoths, in 507, lies 3Vs M. to the S. — 35 M. Farthenay,
see p. 15. 56 M. Breseuire, see p. 30. — From (63 H.) Voultegon a diligence
(I1/4 fr.) plies to (7 H.) Argenton-Chdteau (p. 15). -*- 73 M. GhAtiUonrBt-Aubiii.
ChdUUon'Sftr-Sivre^ I1/4 H. to the S.E., was named MauUon until 1736. —
85 K. Cholet (Hdi. de France; de V Europe) ^ a town with 17,844 inhab., sit-
uated on a hill on the Moine^ was completely ruined during the Vendean
wats, but has since then regained a considerable amount of prosperity
It is an important industrial centre for the manufacture of linen and
cotton goods, particularly handkerchiefs , and has an extensive trade in
fat cattle. The church of Noire-Dame is a noteworthy modem building
in the Angevin style. The Mutie (Sun. AThurs., 1-4) contains collections
of art, natural history, and industrial specimens. Lines to Angers and
Saumur, see Baedeker^ s Northern France. — dSi/s M. Torfon-TifTanrM. Tif-
fauges, 3 H . to the S., is dominated by the extensive ruins or a (kutle
(11th, 14th, and 15th cent.), which belonged to the infamous Gilles de
Laval, the original of 'Blue Beard* (p. 31). — 109 M. Gliuon, seep. 30.
136 M. Nantes y see Baedeker** Northern France.
From Poitiers to La Rochbllb (avd Rochefort), 90 V., railway in
31/,. 51/, hrs. (fares 14 fr. 90, 11 fr. 5, 7 fr. 15 c). — The line to Rochefort
(88 M.) diverges at Aigrefeuille, 11 M. before La RocheUe (sea below). — The
Angouleme line is followed as far as (3 M.) BU Benoit (p. 9). Beyond
(12 K.) Coulombiert we cross the pretty valley of the Vonne by two lofty
viaducts. — 16 tf. Lu»ignAn (.BOtel de la Milunne)^ a pictttresqtiely situated
little town, partly on the bank of the Vonne and partly on a hill crowned
with the inconsiderable remains of the Chdte^u of the illustrious family
which gave kings to Jerusalem and Cyprus. This stronghold is fabled to
have been built by the fairy Helusine, whose name is probably derived
from the earliest chatelaine, the 'Mother of the Lusignans' Cm^re des Lu-
signans*; Iferlusina, M^lusine). The chateau was destroyed in the Reli-
gious Wars. The interesting Church dates from the 11th century. — From
Lusignan a diligence (45 c.) plies in 2 hrs. to Banxay (Hdt. du Bienventt)^
a country-town 81/2 H. to the N.W., in the valley of the Vonne, where con-
siderable Celtic-Roman remains of the 1st cent, of the present era were
discovered in 1881-83 (interesting to archnologists only). — 25 tf . Pamproux.
In the neighbourhood is the Roche Ruffin^ a grotto with an underground
lake. — 29 H. La Mothe-Bt-Hirafe^ a small town, most of the inhabitants
of which, as of many other places in this district, are Protestants. We
then enter the valley of the Stvre-Niortaise.
34 H. St. Kaixent (Ecu de France; Cheval Blanc)^ a town of 5370 inhab.,
on the 8&vre-Niortaise, has an interesting church of the 13-15th cent., in
Seat part destroyed by the Calvinista in 1563 and 1568, but rebuilt in
. 70-83. The fine tower over the W. front, with its truncated spire, dates
from the 15th centurv. The crypt contains the tomb of 8t. Maxentius
(d. 515), the second abbot of the monastery round which the town grew
up. This monastery, rebuilt in the 17th cent., now serves as a barrack.
The line now ascends and then descends rapidly via (38 M.) 8te. N^o-
maye, (40 tf.) La Oriche, and (44 M.) Arihenay to (49 V.) Kiort (p. 16). —
541/3 If . Frontenay-Rohan. The train traverses a marshy district. ^ 69V| M.
BnrfArea iHdt, du Commerce)., a small town (3303 inhab.) with a Roman-
esque church of the 12th cent, and a ruined ch&teau (14th and 16th
cent.). — ]78M. Chambon; 79 H. Aigrefeuille. From Aigrefeuille a branch-
line runs to (9 M.) Rochefort (p. 35), passing CiW, with a 16th cent,
eh&teau. — 83 H. La Jarrie. The line describes a wide curve to reach
La RocheUe, which is seen in the distance to the right, andjoins the
Ifantes and Bordeaux line (R. 3). — 90M. La Rochelle^ see p. 33.
FkOM PoiTiBHS TO LiMOOBs vi& .fitfUoc, 87 M., railway in 41/B-8lirs%
(fares 15 fr. 80» 10 fr. 66, Q ff- 90 c). -. ^eyond (3 H,)i Bt, Beno^ (^e^
to Bordeaux. ST. SAVIN. /. Route 1. 9
below) a abort tunnel is passed. — TVa V. MiffnaloHx-Nouailli (braneb-
line to St. Savin and Le Blanc, see below). The line here passes elose
to the famous battlefield of 1366 (p. 6). Beyond (I81/2 M.) Lhommaize the
line crosses the Vienne. — 251/2 M. Lu»»ac-le$-Chdteaux has only one old
eastle^ through the ruins of which the railway passes. Branch to St.
Saviol, see p. 10.
^/2 M. Kontmorillon (Buffei; H6t. de France)y a small town (pop. 5284)
on an eminence, V2 M. to the left, at the foot of which flows the Oartempe.
In its lower part is the Gothic church of St. Martial. Notre- Dame^ on the
left bank, is partly Romanesque, partly Gothic. Near it is a modern tower,
surmounted by a SttUue of the Virfftn. The Petit Siminairey an ancient convent
of the Augustines, comprises a curious building of the ll-12th cent., called
the Octagon y consisting of two chapels, one above the other. A branch-
line runs hence to (25 M.) Le Blane (see below), via (11 M.) La Trimouille
or La TYimouOU (Hdtel du Nord).
511/2 H. Le Dorat (H6t. de France; de Bordeaux)^ a small town with
an interesting Romanesque church and remains of fortifications of the
15th century. — An alternative line to Limoges (Gare d'Orleans) runs hence
via (I21/2M.) Chdteau-Ponsac (Hot. de la Promenade), a small town (4025
inhab.) on the Oartempey and (261/2 M.) St. Sulpice-Laurikre (p. 36).
591/2 ^> Bellac (H6t. de la Promenade; de la Pyram%de)y a town with
4770 inhab., on the Vincon. Beyond (60 M.) Chapterie the Monti de Blond
(1800 ft.) appear on the right. Several small stations. After passing
(81 M.) Couzeix-Chaptelaty the train rapidly descends, traverses a tunnel
750 yds. long, and joins the line from Paris (p. 36). — 87 M. Limoges (p. 36).
Fkom Poitiers to Argbhtok, 70 M. , railway in 41/2-7 hrs. (fares
11 fr. 55, 8 fr. 55, 5fr. 50 c.). — Diverging from the last -described route
at (71/2 M.) Mignaloux-Nouailliy we proceed N.E. over a dull plain. — 30 M.
Chanvigny (Lion d*Or)y a small town of 2350 inhab., prettily situated on the
Vienne y with two fine churches of the 12th cent,, and the ruins of four
castles, richly repays a visit.
31 3/4 H. St. Savin (^B6t. de France)^ a small town of 1633 inhab., on the
Oartempey with an interesting * Abbey Church of the Uth cent., a cruciform
building with three aisles, a transept, and ambulatory. Over the porch
is a fine steeple with a Gothic spire, and over the transept a square
tower. The height of the interior is exceptional for a Romanesque church.
Among the interesting features of this church are some W'all Paintings
of the 12th century. One series consists of subjects from Genesis, Exodus,
and the Apocalypse; the others represent the patron saints of the abbey
and of the neighbouring district.
45 H. Le slanc (Buffet; H6t. de la Nouvelle Promenade).^ the Oblincum
of the Romans, with 6764 inhab., stands on the Creuse. The chief object
of interest is the church otSU Ginitour., of the 13th. 13th, and 15th centuries.
— Line to Port - de - Piles y see p. 3; to Montmoriuony see above. Another
line is under construction to (31 M.) Buzan^ais (p. 34) vi& (I6I/2 M.) Me-
zi^res-en-BrennOy which has a fine 14th cent, church , with a later chapel
(15-16th cent.) adorned with good stained glass.
56 M. Ciron. — Beyond (64 M.) St. Oaultier we join the line from Limoges
(R. 5). — 70 M. Argenton and thence to (89 M.) Vh(UeaurouXy see pp. 35-33.
n. From Poitieri to Angoiil6me«
70 M. Railway in U/s-Sl/g hrs. (fares 12 fr. 66, 8fr. 55, 5 fr. 60 c.).
The line passes through a short tunnel into the picturesque
valley of the Clain, and crosses that river several times. ~ 64 M.
(from Tours) St, Benott, the Junction for St. Sulpice-Lauriere and
Limoges (p. 8) , and also for La Rochelle and Rochefort (R. 3).
— 66 M. IJigug^, with an old Benedictine abbey founded about 360
by St. Martin, and re-opened in 1853. Farther on, on the right, is
th^ cii^tle of ^efnoy, of the i5th century. Beyond (69V2M-) IteuU
10 i. B<mte L ANGOULEME. Fratn T(mr»
we thread a short tunnel. TSVsM. VU>&nne; 79 M. Anch/' Voulen;
82 M. Couhe-Verac; STVaM. EpanvUliers. — 93 M. St. Saviol,
A branch -line runs hence vii (41/) M.) CVrray, a small town on the
Charente^ with a Romanesque church with an interesting W. fronts (10i/<|M.)
Charrouxy with the remains of an abbey, (38Vs ^■) ^- H^^rtin-Vuony
(271/2 M.) rJtle-Jourdain, pleasantly situated on the Vienne, and (361ft.)
Penacy to (SQi/a M.) Luttae-lss-ChdUaux (p. 9).
Another line runs to (Mi/g M.) St. Jean-d'Angily (p. 17) ria (33 M.) Aulnay
de Saintonffe (Hot. de France), with an interesting Romanesque church.
102 M. Bnffeo (Buffet; Hot. dea AmhoMadeurs) , with 3426 in-
hab., has a Romanesque church with a remarkable facade. The town
is celebrated for truffled pies. Line to Nlort (p. 17).
A short tunnel is passed through. 108 M. Betliei-'Moussac,
beyond which the Charente is crossed. 113 M. Luxe, —■ 119 M. St,
Amant-de-Boixe; the town, 1^/4 M. to the S.-W. (omu.), has a cu-
rious church, a mixture of Romanesque and Oothic. — 123 M. Vars,
As we approach Angouleme, a fine view of the town and its prin-
cipal buildings is presented, the most prominent being (from left to
right) the steeple of St. Martial , the tower of the Hdt^ de Ville,
and the cathedral with its square tower.
131 M. AngOUl6me. — stations. Oare d'OrUans^ for Bordeaux, and
Oare de fEtat^ for Limoges and Saintes (p. 13) , facing each other in the
Areitue Gambetta (PI. F, 1); Oare de /totftUoc, for the unimportant line
to (33 M.) RouillaCf next the Oare de TEtat.
Hotels. HoTBL DE LA PosTB (PI. a; D, 3), Rue de TArsenal 40, R. 3Va-3,
B. 1, D.Si/a fr. ; DE Fkakcb (Pl.b; £,2, 3), Place des Halles-Centrales,
R. from 21/a. d4j. or D. 3 fr. ; Gkamd- Hotel (PI. c^ £, 3), Avenue Gam-
betta 54, R. 31/a, B. IVa, D- 4 fr. ^ Hot. du Palais (PI. d ; D, 3, 3), Place du
Murier, R. 3Ya, B. 1, D. 3Va ^i*-; ^^ Trois Piliers, Rue de P^rigueux
(PI. E,3), R. 2, B. 60 c, D. 2Va fr. — Caf^s. Grand Cafi de la Paix, Place
de rndtel-de-Ville, etc. Bvffett at the two chief stations. — Tramways (10 c.)
from the station to the town, to La Couronne (p. 13), etc.
AngotUeme (315 ft.), with 36,955 inhab. , the ancient capital
of the Angoumois , is now the chief town of the department of the
Charente, and an episcopal see. Like Poitiers, it occupies an emi-
nence between two rivers , the Cha/rente and the AnguUnney but it
is better built and is encircled by promenades which afford very
flue views. Angouleme is noted for its paper-mills.
The town existed in the time of the Romans, who named It ^neolUma,
It was included in the kingdom of Aquitaine, but at a later period became
the capital of a county which was handed over to the English by the
treaty of Bretigny in 1360. It revolted in 1373, and as a reward for its
fidelity to France, it was constituted a duchy and made the appanage of
one of the royal princes. The town was several times taken and sacked
in the Religious Wars, notably by Coligny.
From the stations we ascend by the Avenue C^ambetta, passing
the church oiSt. MarticU (PI. £, 3), a handsome Romanesque build-
ing by Paul Abadie (d. 1884). The Boulevard Pasteur, diverging
to the right, leads to the Hallea Centrales 01 March^ Couvert
(PI. D, 2), on the site of the old prisons.
A new street beginning at the Halles leads to the *HAt!pl de Tille
(Pl.D, 3), a very remarkable structure, in great part modem (1858*
66) , which 19 490 the wor|c qf Apqdfe, It i$ iu t^e ^t^le of th§
t9 Sftrdemu;, ANOOUL^ME. /. Routt L 11
13th cent and oeeupies the site of the castle of the Counts of An-
goullme , of which there remain two towers on the left, one of the
14th, the other of the 15th century. The small Fixture and Sculp-
ture OaUtry and the Arehaeologie€il MtMeum in the interior are
open free on Sun., Thurs., an^ holidays from 12 to 4; to strangers
also at other times. — In a small garden on the left side are a
marble Stcvtue of Margaret of Valois, or AngouUme, sister of Fran-
cis I. and Queen of Navarre (d. 1549), by Badion de la Tronchere
(1871), and a War Monument for 1870-71, by R. Verlet.
The Theatre (Pi. D, 3) is in the Place de ia Commune, a square
abutting on the Ramparts, beside the Monument of President Camot
(PI. C, 3), by R. Verlet This point commands a comprehensive view
of the valley of the Anguienne.
The •Cathedral of St. Peter (PI. C, 3), to the right, is one of
the most interesting Romanesque -Byzantine churches in France,
recalling Notre* Dame at Poitiers (p. 6) and St. Front at P^rigueuz
(p. 40). It dates, as a whole, from 1110-30, but was thoroughly
restored in 1630-54, and even partly rebuilt between 1866 and 1876
by Abadie. It comprises a nave without aisles, surmounted by three
cupolas; a transept with a cupola forming a lantern in the centre;
a N. transept tower (see below) ; the remains of a S. transept tower;
and an apse with four chapels. — The *Fa^ade, which recalls on
the whole that of Notre-Dame at Poitiers , is also the most curious
part of this church. Exclusive of the gable, it is composed of four
tiers of arcades , divided from top to bottom by columns into five
bays. The lowest tier has five arches, of which the largest and
central one contains the sole door in the facade. Above this door
is a large window and above that, between symbols of the Evan-
gelists, Is a Christ in Judgment, to which event most of the many
sculptures of the facade refer. Below the Christ, to the right and
left, are angels sounding the last trump, the dead rising from their
graves (the blessed distinguished by the nimbiu and the reprobate
accompanied by demons), the Doctors of the Church, the Apostles,
symbolic representations of Faith (St. George), Hope, and Charity
(St. Martin), etc., and numerous beautiful ornamentations.
The splendid *Tower at the end of the N. transept, 193 ft. in
height, was necessarily pulled down at the time of the restoration,
but rebuilt exactly in its former shape and, as far as possible, with
the same materials. It has six square stages, diminishing in size,
and four of them present open bays. The corresponding S. tower,
of which only the base remains, was destroyed by the Calvinists in
1568; it had a Gothic spire. — In the Interior the cupolas of the
nave (which has slightly pointed arches) and the lantern of the
transept, placed by twelve windows, merit special notice.
To the E. of the cathedral is the Bishop's Palace (PI. C, 3), of
the same age as the church and also restored by Abadie.
Continuing to follow the ramparts beyoiid the cathedral, we ar-
12 I. Route U COGNAC. I From T6W9
rive at the Jar din Vert (Pl.B, 2), a line promenade on the side of
the hill, near the modern church of 8t» Ausone, hnilt in the Early
Gothic style hy Ahadie. To appreciate the view , we ascend to the
Promenade de Beaulieu (PI. B, 2), which skirts the spacious Lyce'e
and commands the valley of the Charente, heyond which, on the
right hank , lies the suburb of St. Cyhard,
From Aogouleme (Gare de TEtat) a line, of little intereat to tourists,
runs to (381/3 M.) Matha and (60 M.) St. Jean-dT Angily (p. 17).
From Angoulemb to Saimtbs (Rochefort, La Rochelle), 48V2 H-t rail-
way in 2-31/4 lirs. (fares 6 fr., 4 fr. 06, 9 fr, 65 c). — From the Gare de
TEtat (p. 10) we pass through a tunnel under the town and cross the Bor-
deaux line. — 3 M. St. Miehel-tur-Gharente^ with a curious octagonal church.
The line then follows the valley of the Charente.
141/4 M. Gh&teaunenf-sur-Cbarente (SoUil cTOr)^ a town with 2783 inhab.,
once a stronghold in the hands of the English, and only recovered from
them after a siege of four years (1376-80). A branch -line runs hence to
(12 M.) Barbezieux (Boule d'Or; Hot. de France), a town of 4230 inhab., on
the slope of a hill, with the remains of a castle of the 15th cent., and a
church of the 12th and 16th centuries. — Tramway to Pons, Aee p. 19.
23 M. Jamao (ffdt. de France)^ a small town chiefly known for the vic-
tory of the Catholics under the Duke of Anjou, afterwards Henri III, over
the Protestant army of the Prince of Condd in 1669. The country to the
left of our route and to the S. of the Charente, as far as beyond Cognac,
is the Petite Champagne. Farther to the 8. is the Orande Champagne. They
are so called because they are of the same geological formation as Cham-
pagne and, like it, produced excellent white wines of which highly'reputed
brandies were made, those of the second being called ^Fine Champagne".
The vineyards, destroyed by the phylloxera, have not yet been replanted.
3IV4 M. Cognac (H6t. de Londres; d^Orlian*; de France; Ca/4 du Grand
Chalet)^ an old town of 20,228 inhab., the centre of the brandy trade of the
Charente. Its chief object of interest is the church of St. lAgtr^ mainly
of the lith, 14th, and l5th centuries. The facade has a £ne Romanesque
portal and a florid Gothic rose- window. In the Place Francois - Premier
is an Equestrian Statue 0/ Francis /., a modern bronze by Etex. The large
brandy distilleries and the vast storehouses should be seen. One of the
latter is on the site of the castle in which Francis I. was born (1494).
At (42 M.) Beiltant (p. 19) we join the line from Nantes to Bordeaux.
— 481/3 M. Saintes (p. 17).
From Amooulbmb to Riberac, 42 K., railway in 2-2^/4 hrs. (fares 7 fr.
60, 5 fr. 15, 3 fr. 35 c). We start from the Gare de TEtat (p. 10). — 33/4 M.
Ruelle^ with a large cannon-foundry established in 1760. — 0I/4 M. Magnac-
Touvre. The copious springs of Touvre are at the foot of a hill which
is crowned by a ruined castle. — Beyond (381/2 M.) Celle» we pass the
Tour de la Rigaie, said to be the ^cella* of a Roman temple. We cross
the Dronne. — 42 M. BibArao (HOt. de France; du PMgord), a prettily
situated commercial town with 360S inhabitants. — The line goes on to
Mutiidan (p. 43), Bergerac (p. 53), Marma^de (p. 68), etc. — From Riberac
to PMgueuXy see p. 41.
Fsom Ahooulbmb to Limoobs, 73 M., railway in 31/4-31/2 hrs. (fares
13 fr. 80, 9 fr. 30, 6 fr. 06 c). — To (61/4 M.) Magnac- Touvre , see above.
— From (10 M.) Le Quiroy-Pranxac a branch-line runs to (39 M.) Thwiers
(p. 39), vii (8 M.) Marihon.^ where are the remarkable ruins of a castle of
the 12th cent. , (2I1/2 M.) Nontron (H6t. du Nord), and (26l/s If.) Si, Par-
douxla-Riviire^ on the Dronne^ whence a tramway runs to Perigueux.
171/9 M. La Roohefoncanld (H6t. du Commerce)^ a little town (28l» inhab.)
on the Tardotre^ with the remarkable *<7M<ea« of the family of that name,
founded in the 9th or 10th cent., but dating chiefly from. the 12th and 16th.
The finest parts, dating from the Renaissance, are the magnificent staircase
built by Fontant (1528-38) and the galleries, surmounted by arcades, whieh
surround the inner court, by the same architect. — 25 M, Chtuseneuil-sur'
to Bordeaux. LIBOUBNE. /. Bimie 2. 13
Bonnieure has a eaatle of tbe 17th eent. and iron-mines. — From (33 M.)
RoumaziireS'Loubert (Buffet) a braneh-line diverges to (lOi/a M.) Coi^oleiu
(Hot. Ohaboussant), a town with 3135 inhah. , a castle , and two ancient
churches. We now reach the valley of the Vienne. Ufi-/% M. CtuibaruUi.
451/2 V. 8ailktt'C?uusenon. Chassenon, 21/3 M. to the S.W.., is the Ceusino-
moffns of the Romans. A branch-line runs hence to (28 M.) Buttitre-Oalant
(P^rigneuX) see p. 39), Ti&(4Va M.) Xooheohonart (^dl. Mary Vaiuade, below
the town), a little town (451C) inhab.) with a remarkable castle situated
on a lofty rock and rebuilt in the 15th cent., and (23^/2 M.) CMlu$^ with two
keeps of the strong castle, in attacking which Richard Cceur-de-Lion was
mortaUv wounded in 1199.
501/2 M. St. Junien (H6t. du Commeret)^ an industrial town of 9674 inhab.,
containing a remarkable abbey -church of the 12th and 14th cent., with
the richly sculptured 12th cent, tomb of St. Junien, and a beautiful high-
altar. XTear the station is a bridge of the 13th cent., with a chapel of the
Virgin to which Louis XI. was a pilgrim. — Beyond (68I/2 M.) Aixe-iur-
Viennt (H6t. du Pecheur), an industrial place with 3700 inhab., we pass
through a tunnel 1/4 M. long. — 73 M. lAmoget (Gare de Vontjovis, p. 36).
III. From Angouldme to Bordeaux.
821/a M. to the Gare de la Bastide, 87 M. to that of St. Jean (see p. 42).
Railway In 11/2-5 hrs. (fares 15 fr., 10 fr. 5, 6 fr. 55 c, or 15 fr. 80,
10 fr. 70, 6 fr. 90 c). Best views to the right.
The line passes under the town through a tunnel V2 M. long. —
136 M. (from Tours) La Couronne, with a large paper-mill and
the remarkable ruins of a Gothic abbey -church of the 12th cen-
tary. — 139V2 M. Mouthiers ; 144^/4 M. Charmant We now pass
from the Charente to the Dordogne basin by a tunnel nearly 1 M.
long, and enter the valley of the Tyde. The country assumes more
and more a southern appearance. — 152M. Montmoreau. -^ 162^/2 M.
Chalais (H6t. de France), a small decayed town, well known for its
attachment to the English in the 15th century, with an old castle,
now a hospice. Hence we pass to the valley of the Dronne. Two
small stations.
182 M. Coutraf (Buffet; Lion d'Or), a commercial town (3903
inhab.), with scanty remains of its ancient castle. In 1587 Henri IV
here defeated the Leaguers. Line to P^rigueux, see p. 42.
Fsoif CouTKAS TO Gaviokao, 16 M., railway joining the line from Bor-
deaux to Kantes (B. 6). The ItU is crossed. 41/4 M . (7u»r«<, a small town
on a hill to the right, with a fine Romanesque church. 13 X. Marcenait^
iunetion of a line to Liboume (12 M.*, see below). 16 M. Cavignae (p. 20).
We next cross the hie, — 197 M. St. DenU-de- Piles.
192 M. Libounie {Buffet; Hdt. de France; dee Princes), a thriv-
ing town with 18,016 inhah., at the confluence of the Dordogne and
the Isle. It la of ancient origin (Oondate), but has been to a great
extent rebuilt since the 17th century. The Hotel de VUle dates from
the 16th cent.^ the church of St. Jean-Baptiste^ with a fine modern
steeple 233 ft. high, f^om the Idth. The bridge over the Dordogne
affords a beautiful view. The Towr de VBorloge, on the Quhi de
risle, is a relic of the 14th cent, fortifications.
About IV2 M. to the W. is Fronaac, on a hill (236 ft.) which affords
a fine view (omn. from the station 40 c.). The town was fortl&ed from
the time of Charlemagne, but the eastle is now destroyed.
14 I. B^te 2. MONTBBUIL-^BELLAY. *:
From Llboume to Maretnaity see p413; to. Z4 Buiuon and (7«A«r«,
see p. 59).
Quitting Libourne, we cross th« Dofdogne, already a very large
stream. 196 M. Arveyres, — 197 Va M. Vayres, dominated by an old
castle. — 201 M. St. SuLpice-d'Iton; 203 M. St. Loubh. At a
distance, on the right, are the bridges of Cubzac (p. 20). 205V2 M.
La Grave ' d' Ambarh. A little farther On, to the right, the line
from Nantes is approached (R. 5), and the Oaronne now appears on
that side. — 209 M. Bassens, We pass throng a series of cuttings,
over three viaducts, and through three short tunnels. — 210 Va M.
Lormont (3200 inhab.), on the Garonne, with ship-building yards.
Two more tunnels and then, on the right, a splendid view of Bor-
deaux and its harbour.
'213V2M. Bordeaux (Oare de la Bastide;. see p. 42). Trains
in connection with the line to the South , at the St, Jean station
(p. 42), back out a little way and make a ddtour to cross the Ga-
ronne by the bridge mentioned on p. 45.
2. From Saumur (Paris) to Bordeaux.
202 M. from (he Gare d'Orledns, 198 M. from the Gare de TEtat (slow
trains only). Railway in 6I/3-IO hrs. (fares 38 fr. 85, 34 fr. 70, 16 fr. 30 c),
arriving in Bordeaux at the Oare St. Jean. Break of journey, see p. 3.
— From Paris to Bordeaux rii Saumur, 380 M. to the Gare de TEtat,
384 H. to the Gare St. Jean, railway in III/2- 211/9 hrs. (fares 67 fr. 25,
45 fr. 70, 30 fr., or 68 fr., 4^ fr. 25, 30 fr. 35 c). Trains start from the
Gare Montpamasse at Paris and run vl& Chartret^ Brou , and Ch&ieau-du-
Loir. Dining-car on the morning-express (d4j. 3i/s, D. 4 fr , inel. wine).
From Saumui* to Let Sables-d' Olonne , 120 M., railway in 4V4-6V4 hrs.
(fares 19 ft-., 13 fr. 80, 8 fr. 90 c.) vift Thouars (s6e p. 15). — From
Saumur (o La Rwihelle and Roch^ort vift Jfi^ri (see p. 16), 192 and 120 H.,
in 41/4 -61/g hrs. (fares 17 ft-. 86, 13 ft. 15, 8 fr. 65 e , and 18 fr. 66, 13 fr.
25, 8 fr. 66e ); or vi& Thouart (see p. 15) and Bressuirey 112 and 130 M.,
in 41/4 and 6Va hrs. (fares about 18 fr. 86, 13 fr. 86, 8 fr. 95 e., and 21 fr.
90, 16 fr. 10, 10 ft-. 46 e.).
I. From Saumur to Niort.
76 or 80 M. Railway in ^^M hrs. (fares IS fr. 16, 8 fr. 40, 6 fr. 85e.).
The fast tirains start from the Oare d^OrMans, the slow trains from the
Gare de fEtat.
Saumur, see Baedeker's Northern France, — Quitting the Gare
d'Orl^ans the train describes a wide curve to the E. , crosses the
Loire by an iron bridge 1145 yds. long, threads a tunnel of the
same length, and reaches (3 M.) Nantilly, the junction of the line
from the Gtre de TEtat. — 7 M. BrM-Si-Cyr^en^Bowg. The
handsome I6th cent, chftteau of BtM lies V2 M. to the S. E.
13 M. MMitretiil-Bellay (Buffet; H6t. de France; de Londres;
de la Oare), an ancient town with 2011 inhab., situateid on the
Thouet^ at a little distance from the station. The road from the
station passes through the Town Walls (13th and 15th cent.), ne^r
the ancient Porte de Thouars, The Chdteau (adm. on application),
on a precipitous eminence, dates from the 15th cent, and consists
THOUARS. /. Ami«2. 15
of two ^aits, tfbe ChdtiBau Vhum and the CMteau Ntuf, The Utter
hAs be#n w«ll restored. ThA fine nave of the church beside the
chateau aUo datefl from the 15th century.
A navrow^gaage Hoe.ruQi fram Monireuil-Bella/ vl& (39Vs ^•) •^'V***
ton-ChdUau to (38 M.) Bres*uire (p. 30; 39 M. by the main line). — To
Loudun and ioxAnffert^ see p. 190.
As W6 quit Montreuil we enjoy a ptcturesque retrospect of its
castld, on the left.
24 M. Thouun (Buffet; *Hdt. du Cheval Blanc, Grande-Rue; dt
la Oare)y with 5033 inhab., on thd Thouet, was the capital of the
powerful viscounts of Thouars, almost always partizans of the
£2nglish, until It was taken by Bertrand du Guesclin in 1372. After-
wards it was long held by the Dues de la Tr^mouille. The Castle
is a spacious structure of the 16th cent., built on steep cliffs above
the river, 1 M. from the station. It is now a prison; but visitors
may obtain admission (after 10a. m.) to the chapel, called Ste,
Chapelle, a fine example of the Gothic style, finished in 1514. It
has a crypt cut out in the rock, with the vault of the Tr^moullle
family. Fine view of the valley of the Thouet from the terrace in
front of the castle. — The Church of St. M^dard, on the right of
the main street as we return, has a fine Romanesque * Portal. —
St. Laon, on the left of the same street, dates from the 12th and
15th cent.; interesting interior.
From Thouars to Let Sabl€s-d*OU>nne and to Tours^ see p. 90.
Beyond a viaduct the Sables Une diverges to the right, '^e
cross the Thouet once more. To th^ right appears the fine Qhdteau
de SoiUievres, — 39 M. AirVattlt (Hdt, des Voyageura)^ a little
town in which the church of St. Pierre^ an old abbey-church, is a
noteworthy example of the Romanesque style with Gothic additions.
Here, too, are the remains of a castle. The Thouet is crossed, V4 M.
higher up, by an 11th cent, bridge with eleven arches, called Pont
de Vernay.
40Vj JVi- Airvault-Gare. Branch to Moncontour, see p. 30. —
427fM. St, Loup-aur-Thouety with a ch&teau of the 17th century.
54 M. Parthenay fBu^«^; Hot. Tranchant), a picturesque old
town of 6915 inhab. , is still partially surrounded with ramparts
of the 12- 13th centuries. It played an important part in the wars
against England in the Middle Ages, In the Religious Wars, and in
those of the Vendue. The Church of St. Laurent, in the Roman-
esque and Gothic styles, has a modern spire and a 12th cent, tower.
Ste. Croix is Romanesque. The ruined Chateau, the Porte St.
Jacques^ and the ruins of Notre- Dame-de-la-Couldre, in the Ro-
manesque style, are also noteworthy.
From Parthenay to Nantes and Poitiers, tee p. 8. — A steam -tramway
plle« from Parlhenay to (16»/2 M.) Minifftute (fidt. des Voyageurs), 3 M .
to tke W. of SaMav (p. 8).
Our line now quits the valley of the Thouet abd travwses the
(^dtine, an uadulating and wooded but bafren district like the
18 /. Route 2. NIORT. From Saumwr
Socage (p. 21), of which It Is a oontixiuation. — 67V« M. Champ-
deniera has a Romanesque church of the 1 1th cent., restored in the
15th. — 73*/2 M. Echire-St-Oelaii f where the Sevre-Niortaiae is
crossed. About 1^/4 M. to the W. are the impressive ruins of the
Chdteau du Couldray-Salhart, huilt in the 13th century.
80 M. Niort. — Hotels. *HdTSL du Baisik pb Boubooohb, Rue
Victor Hugo 38, B. from 3, d^j. 31/3, D. 3 fr. ; dbs Etbavobrs, Rue des
Cordeliers 8^ db Fbadcb, Place da Temple 11; db la Gakb, unpretend-
ing, good cuisine. >« Buffet ^ at the station, well spoken of, d^j. 3,
D. 31/2 f'. — C?a/^», in the Place de la Br^ehe. — ,0a6«, 1 fr. per drive,
2 fr. per hour (at night 2 and 4 fr.).
Hiorty with 23,674 inhab., on the Sevre-Niortaise, is the chief
town of the department of the Deux- Sevres, Handed over to
England with the domains of Eleanor of Aquitaine (p. 5), it was
several times taken and retaken in the Hundred Years' War, on the
last occasion (1372) by Bertrand du Guesclin. Its Calvinist sym-
pathies also led to considerable suffering in the Religious Wars.
The chief industry of Niort is in hides and skins , and gloves are
largely manufactured here.
On the right side of the Rue de la Gare, leading from the station,
is the large modern church of S^ Hilaire, in a debased style. Adja-
cent is the spacious Flace de la Br^che, adorned with flower-beds
and statues in bronze and marble, from the end of which the central
street leads to the Rue Victor Hugo, the chief street of the town. In
the court of No. 13 is the Maison de Candie, in the Gothic style of
the 15-16th cent., in which Mme. de Maintenon is said to have
been born. — The Rue du Pilori, on the right, leads to the so-called
Palais d' Eleanor e^ the old Hotel de Ville. The present building,
flanked by two round machicolated towers , dates from 1520-35.
It contains the Musee Departemental , a collection of antiquities
(open on Sun. and Thurs. 12-4 or 5, to strangers on other days also;
concierge at No 11, opposite the entrance). — Farther on, to the left,
is the church of 8t, Andrew, rebuilt about 1850 in the style of the
15th cent., and still farther on is the beautiful Jar din Public (^AU^e
St. Gelais'), laid out on a slope by the river-side and affording pleas-
ant views.
We now return by the Quays to the Balles, a tasteful iron struc-
ture at the end of the Rue Victor Hugo. On the other side Is the
Keep (Donjon) of a castle built by Henry Plantagenet, which con-
sisted mainly of two large square towers with round turrets. Beyond
the keep are the Prefectures the Palais de Justice, and Notre-
Dame, the chief church of Niort, dating from the 15-16th cent but
considerably altered in the 19th. The N. portal is embellished with
a curious balustrade, and the tower has a stone spire surrounded
with turrets bearing statues of the Evangelists. In the interior are
a Gothic pulpit, ^Stations of the Cross' in carved oak, an elegant
Renaissance gallery, etc.
The Grande Rue Notre-Dame leads to the right ttom this church
to Bordeaux. ST. JEAN-tyANG^LY. /. Rimte ?. 17
to the Rue St. Jeati, which leads back to the Rue Victor^flugo. At
the corner of the Rue St. Jean and Rue du Mus^e rise the hand**
some Ecole de Detsin and the new Hotel de Ville.
In the ^ue du Mus^e is the Mus^e de Peinture, occupying an old
convent and open to the public on Sun. and Thurs. from noon till
4 or 5, to strangers on other days also. The picture-gallery on the
second floor contains about 200 paintings, including some good
works of the Italian School, t&r the most part by unknown masters,
and several works of the early French School.
Trom Viort to PoUitrt and to Lu MthelU and Kochtfori^ sea p. 6; to
Br€tsuir4 and t« Attifert, sea p. 90 and Btudd^'t Northern Frumce,
FaoM Nio«T TO RuFPBQ, MVt ^M railway in 3V2-^V4 bra. (fares 8 fr. 45,
6 fr. 25, 4 fr.lO c). — 3»/4 M. Atfres. - aoi/a M. Xelle (BOM St«. Catkerin*),
an anelent town (Meuaium) with 3670 inhab., built partly on the bank of
tha Bironne and partly on a staep hilL, which centaiBed a silver and lead
mine workjad by tha Romans. The chief building is the Church t^f St. JHlairt^
in the lower part of the, town, dating from the I3th cent, and containing
sume interesting senlptures. at. Pietrt^ in the upper part of the town, is of
the same period. — SSi/s M. Mlaaiit^tt'St'M^iMmi. About UU M. ta the S.fi.
is a modern chateau, with the fine Tour de Meltiard of tlie 15th century.
We now ascend the valley of the Bouionne^ a tributary of the Charente,
which viBtt near (341/s M .) eh^-Boutontm. -^ Ml/s M. Aif^toe, aae p. 10.
■
II. Prom Viort to BordMox.
133 M. RaiLWAT in 4-7 hvs. ^iftrea 36 fr. 70, 16 fr. 80, 10 fr. 45 e.).
Beyond Niort the Bordeaux- tine Is comparatively uninteresting.
A number of sinall stations are passed. ^ 110 M. (from Saumur)
8t. J6a&-d*Aag)6l7 (Hdttl de France), a town with 7200 itibab.,
on the right bank of the Boutonne, which here forms a small har-
bour. The' town owes its origin to a Benedictine abbey, destroyed
in 1568 by the CalvinlBts, who had made tJie place one of their
chief strongholds. It was tak«n the following year by the Dake of
Anjou (Henri III) and in 1621 by Lonis XIII. , who levelled its
fortiflcatl>ons. Amori^ the objects of Intere t are some rermains 'of
the abbey and its church, rebuilt In the 13th cent.; a tower of the
13th cent. ; and an old tnarket^house.
From St. Jean-d*Ang<i1y a local line runs via (11 M.) Matha fp. IS) to
(381/} a.) Cognac (p. 12). >- Linea to St. £«««•< and to Surgirtt aad Ma-
r^i, see pp. 10, 22.
The line now crosses the Boutonne; and beyond [(llS'/t M*)
Qrandjean reaches —
122 M. TaiUebomrg (Hotel de France), a little town where 8t.
Louis defeated the English in 1242. By the treaty of Br^tigny (1360)
it was assigned to the latter^ but waa recovered from them by Bertrand
du Guesclin in 1372. It Is overlooked by the ruins of its (Jostle,
built oa a sheers ro£k. Wje here join the line from Nantes to Bordeaux
via La Rochelle (p. 27).
i28 M. Saintes (Bvffet), — HotaU. Hotsl n^^ :i[fls8A6KRiss, Rue
des Massageries, to the left of th^ Cours National, R. 3V2i I>- 3V8 fr.; i>u
ComtaacK, next door. — Cafi$ at the lower end of the Cours. — Cahi^
per .drive 1 fr. ; per h^ur % tt. -^ Steam Tramuay from the station to
Baedeker. Southern France. 4th Edit. 2
J8 LBoute% SAINTBS* From Samiwr
(16 M.) Gimozac ria the C^ars (95 c^ 16 c.) ftnd ibe vleipity ofth^Aqiphi-
theatreK^ c, 26 c).
iSaiw^ea, a town of 20,285 inhab., the ancieiit capital of the San-
tones and afterwards of the Saintonge, is prettily situated oi^ the
left hank of the Charente. It was in great favour with tiie {tomans
after their conquest of Gaul, and still possesses the remains of
several structures erected at that period.
Leaving the station we turn first to the left and then to the right,
and follow the Avenue Gambetta, crossing a suburb in which, within
a barrack -yard, stands the old and interesting abbey ^church of
Notre-Dame, dating from the 11 -12th cent., but now in a dila-
pidated condition and no longer used foir serTicc. Over the crossing
rises a fine steeple, composed of a square tower, with three arcades
on each face, which is surmounted by a drum with twelve double
arcades, the whole ending in a conical roof with flsh-scale orna-
mentation. — The church of St, Palais, at the entrance to the bar-
racks , with its main portal concealed by a porch , dates from the
12-13th centuries.
The town proper is entered by a 8ton« bridge , to the left of
which is a marble stetue, by F. Talhuet (1868), of Bernard Pa-
lissy, the potter, who was born at Sthintes in 1510. The old Ro-
man bridge on this site was embellished with a Triumphal Arch
erected in the reign of Augustus in hoQQur of Germanicus , which
was removed in 1844 and re-eieeted lower, down, . among the trees.
On the other side of the bridge begins the Q^infs^ National, the
principal street of the town. The. Rue d'Al8ace-I,iOrraine,. on the
left, leads to the old cathedral, th« great tower of which is con-
spicuous. On the way to it we pass , on the right , the Old Hotel
de Vilte, a Renaissance building with a small tower, containing
the Public Library,
The Chturch of St, Pierre, the ancient eathedral , is supposed to
have been founded by CharlemAgne , but it has been twice rebuilt,
and dates in its present form from the end of the 16th centvtry.
The tower, however, with the exception of the cupola at the top,
is a remnant of the second building , dating from the 15<^ cent. ;
and the arms of the transept are of the 12th century. Below the
tower is a fine doorway in the florid Gothic style. The nave, with
its large round pillars without capitals and its flat arches, is some>
what heavy. The small cupolas of the transept alslo belonged to the
old building.
^Farther to the right is the Hdtel de Ville , with a small collec-
tion of paintings (adm. on application to the concierge of the H6tel
de Ville). The concierge also opens the Um^e d'Anti^uit^f , eon*-
taining fragmentary sculptures, inscriptions, etc.
>l^ Retracing our steps to the Cours National, we continu^ to follow
it towards the centre of the town. On a hill to the left stood a Bo-
man building called the Capitol (?), which was destroyed during the
to Bordeaux. PONS. /. Rouit 9, id
wars With the English. >Its site is oocupied by a hospital, and nothing
remains of the Roman bnilding bnt some fragments of the walls.
We now torn to the left into the Oours R^Terseanx, which leads
through the hollow with the amphitheatre (to the right; see below).
The Church of St. Eutropiui, farther to the right, is of very an-
cient foundation, but was rebuilt in the 11th cent, and altered in
the Idth, and again, like the cathedral, after the Religious Wars.
The fine stone spire was also added in the 15th century. Nothing
has been left of the old nave, the present one being made up of
the old choir, in the Transition style, and part of the transept.
The capitals of the columns and the vaulting of the aisles should
be noticed. The present choir is of the t5th cent, and contains some
modern statues of the Apostles under old canopies. Below the
church there is a large and fine Romanesque Crypt of the 11th
cent., consisting of a nave and aisles with three chapels, the cen-
tral one of which has been rebuilt and transformed into a iacrlsty.
This crypt is lighted by windows aod.it entered directly from the
street (frequently closed except io. the monking). Behind its chief
altar Is the tomb of St. Eutropius, the flr^. bishop of Saintes, who
suffered martyrdom hbere in the 3rd century* It has recently been
restored. The capitals in the crypt also deserve notice.
In a hollow neai St. Eutrope, to the right, are the ruins of the
Roman Amphitheatre, dating from the 1st or 2nd century A. D.
It meaauxea 436 ft. by 354 ft., and was capable of holding 20-22,000
spectators. There was but one tier of arches, inclined towards the
arena, and one ^prjecipctio', or lobby, ^th three flights of steps. Of
its 74 arches nine only remain in more ot less good preservation.
The services of the guide are not needed unless the visitor wishes to
inspect the interior of the arches and galleries. A street on the other
side of the hollow takes us back to the Cours R^verseaux (see above).
From Saintes to NaMes^ aee p. 37 \ to Angoulhne^ toe p. 13.
I3OV2 M. Chanters, with a Romanesque church, visible to the
right. The train now crosses the Charente, quits its valley, and as-
cends that of the /fif«wgpn«. — At (134 M.) JB«^ifew# (Buffet) the line
to Angouleme diverges (pi 13). — i38M. MmitUs-Colomhier.
143 M. FoBf (Buffet; Hdtel de Bordeaux; de Nantta), a town
of 4717 inhab., is prettily placed on a hill rising from the Seugne,
Va M. to the right of the line. It h&fi <5till some remains of ancient
ramparts and a Keep of the 12th century. The adjacent Hdtel de
ViiU was formerly the eh&teau (15-16th cent) and is partly built
on semicircular aiiehes. The river-banks here are very pieturesque.
FaoM Pom to Rotam, 29 M., railway in 11/4-31/4 hw- — From (331/^11,)
Saujon (Hot. des Vovageurs), the sixth station, a town with 3223 inhab., on
the Seudre^ a brancrh-line runs to (131/2 M.) ta Trtmblade (see bfclow). —
29 H. Ropa% Me p. 66.
Fbom .PoK« TO La GiRkyn(Roncf-lt» B9in8)^ 38 M., taUwar^in 3-28/4 hrs.
— To (331/aM.) Sai0on^ tee above. — 37 M. La Tremblade (Bdt. de f ranee),
a small town surrounded by salt-marshes and sand-dudes, 1V41'* ^om
whleh is the sea-bathing plaoe of Aoaoe-kf-Aaliii (Hot. du Orand-Chalet).
2*
20 1. UiMte 5. CLI$?SON.
-r 38 M. Za G%^«, port of La Tremblade, on tiie Seudre^ facing Msrennes
(pi 26; free ferry) aiid not £ar from the Siraits of JHavmuseon (p. 37).
155 M* Jomac {HOHl de I' Ecu}, a town with 3344 iuhab., on
tlie SeugDB, with a castle of the 14.Ti8th centuries. — 167 M.
Manf^ndre, a oouotry-towii situated ou a hill to the right, with a
restored keep of the 12th century. — From (178 M,) St Hariens
(Boffet) a hran^h-line xuns to (15V» M.) BUye (p, 55),
Beyond {iBO^I^^^) .CavigncLc the Une 4o Coutras (p« 13) di-
verges to the left. 184 M. QawnagVftt; 187 M. AuhU-'St'Awtoint.
189 M. St^ And^t'de-Cuhxa<^ (,H4t*Cafltaiguet), a fimall in-
dustrial town of 3916 iiihah. with a handsome modern ch&teau.
From St. Aiidbe-i>s-Co«za,c to 3lays. ahd St. GuRs-I^ALAitDp , 33 H.,
lucal railway, on the right hank of the Bordogne, then of the Gironde.
— 8 H. Bou^smT-Girottd* (two hotels), «^ aneieot little town, with
quarries a«id «elQbrated vimByairda. — 15 II. PUueac is also Bdled fov its
wine, . 181/a M* Blayf (]x. .^). — The line now quits the Gironde ^nd runs
viSL St. Afarlin, St. Seurtn, Epr.ans - CorteUque , etc., all noted for wine,
to (33 M.) St: Cieri'LtOandi.
Bejrond (191 M.) Oabiadei-FDnts ftie'lYain tristerses a viaduct,
IV2 M. in ll9ngth, incMding a *Bridge over the Dorrf'OjfHf, 620 yds.
long arid 73 ft. high. The piers on the "bank's of the river go ddwn
9b ft, helow high -Water mark and 75 tt. below the river-bed. The
road from Paris to Bordeaux passes IV4 M. to the left of this point,
crossing the river by a splendid iron and' stone bridge nearly 1 M.
Ibng. The Dordogne joins the Garonne a little way to the right,
at the Bee d'Ambes (p. 56), and the two together form the'G4ronde.
The tract between the Dordogne and the Garonne is known as
Entrt'deuX'Mm's. — 194 M. La G-rave-^' Avnhdrh.
Crossing the line from Tours to Bofdcf^ux (p. 14), we pass (226 M.)
Ste-EutaUe-Carbon- Bianc and (201 VL.) Berdeaux- Benauge and
cross the Ocerwme by thte bridge mentioned on p. 45 , obtaining a
fine view on the right of Bordeaux and its harbbur.
202 M. Bordeaux (Oare 8t. Jean), see p. 42.
■
3. From Hantea to Bordeaiqu
a. VU caissom and La Boohelle.
231 M. Bail^ai in n/^Al hn. Cfareo STfr. 80, 37 fr. MsdS fr. !25 c). The
trains start from the Gare dp VEtat, but call at the Oare d'QrUan* |t fiew
min. later. At Bordeaux they arrive at the Qare de VBtai or 'the Oare
St. Jean (p. 43). -^ Breaks on the journey, see p. 3.
f^antet, see Baedeker's Northewi Ptance. — The lirte crosses
three arms of the Loire, of which, as well as of Nantes itself, it
affords a striking view. — 4Vi M. Vertou, a country-town, pictur-
esquely situated IV4 M. to the right. — 9V2 M. La Haie-Pouassiere ;
12 M. Le Pallet, the birthplace of Ab^lard and of Astrolabe , the
son of H^lo'ise. Beyond it the Sevre- Nantaise is crossed.
17 M. C)iii<m {Buffet; Botel de V Europe), a town with 2900
inhab., prettily situated on two hiUs at the cQufluence of the Sevre
and the Moine, The latter river is crossed by a handsome viaduct.
LA ROCHB-SUft-YON. /. Routp 3. Ql
Tiie best view of th€k town and ruins is obtained from the hill (on
which lies the hotel), on the opposite bank of the Sevre, reached by
following the road to the left ftom the station. The old feudal
CastU (13-i5th cent) and the town itself were destroyed in 1793-94
iu the wars of the V^nd^e, so that nothing ancient now remains ex-
cept the interesting and picturesque ruins of the castle. On the
capture of the latter many of the inhabitants are said to have been
thrown alive into the castle -well and left there to perish mis-
erably. The town was rebuilt in a somewhat peculiar style, mainly
after the plans of the sculptor Lemot (1775-1827), the owner of
the ruins. Both the rivers are bordered with attractive 'Garennes'
or parks, the finer of the two being the G-arenne Lemot, on the right
bank of the Sevre, while the Garenne Valentin occupies both banks
of the Moine. Clisson has given its name te a family of which the
most famous representative was Olivier de Glisson, Constable of
France (d. 1407), one of the most distinguished champions of France
in her wars with England.
From Cllsson to (109 M.) Poitiers^ tee p. 8.
The train now enters the Vendee, traversing that part of it
which is called the Bocage, famous in the annals of the Revolution.
The land here is -divided into square plots, each 6 to 7 acres in
area, fenced In by h«dges 6 to 10 ft. in height, orDementeA with
trees. — 24 M. Montcdgu'' Vendee , a small town, prettily situated
on the JdmrU, which is crossed here, was the birthplace #f Lar^-
veillere •* L^peaux (17^3-1824), one of the Ave members of the
Directory. A monument was erected to him in 1880. ■*- 'dO^it M.
L' Herhergemeat ; 4QIL MeHevUle-Vendee,
48 M. lift Boeh#*«iiroToii, formerly Napol/on- Vend/e and Bourbon -
Vendee (Buffet; Hot, di VEv/rope, in thV Pface/R. from 2, D. 3 fr. ;
du P^Heanf Rue de Bordeaux; dei Voyageu^, «t the station),
with 12,710 inhab., the chief town of the department of th« Vend/e.
on a hill washed by the Yon, There was formerly a strong CMtle
here which wsa a place of impoftance l^oth in the English i^nd. Re-
ligious war». The town having become the chief place, of a prefec-
ture, Napoleon I, erected numerous buildings wfaieh are anything
but remarkable. It is now a modern town , regularly built and
almost without interest. The Large Place Napoleon , in the centre,
which is reached from the station vi4 the boulevard on the right
and the Rue des Sables to the left, is adorned with an equestrian
bronze Status of NapoUon I,, by De Nieuwerkerke. Her» abo is
t\i^ H6tel de Ville, with an annexe behind it containing a small
museum of paintings and antiquities. A little farther to the right,
in a smaU square, is the Statue of General Travot (1767-1836)
'paciilcator of the Vendue' during the Hundred Days, an indifferent
bronte by Maindron. In front of the Pr^feeHire is a statve of FauZ
Baud^y (1828-1886), the painter, a native of the town, by G^rdme.
From La &och«rsur-Yo& to Lt» Sablts-dP Qhotm* ami Tawtt tee R. 4.
QfJ I. R&ute 3. LA ROCHfiLliE. From Nantei
53V2M. Nesmy; 61 M. Champ- St- Phe. The hedges separat-
ing the fields now disappear and are replificed by trenches.
71 M. Lu9on {Hot'ei de la Tete-NoirCj near the cathedral), a tdwn
with 6745 ihhah., is the seat of a bishopric which Kichelieu held
from 1607 to 1624. The Cathedral, an old monastic foundation
of the llth cent., was not finished till the iSth and was restored
in the 19th. The most noteworthy object in the interior Is the
pulpit, ornamented with paintings. Adjoining are Cloisters of the
15-1 6th centuries,
Lu(oii stands on the N. border of the Karab , a swampy patt of the
Vendue, «whieh extends in the direction of the Breton JSlmiU as .for as the
Bay 0/ Aii/uillont with whieh it eommwnieates by a ean^ 9 H. in length.
Down to the 6th cent, of the Christian era this district was a gulf, one
of the arms of whieh extiended on the B. as far as Kiort, whfeh Is now
37 M. distant from the sea. The gradual . elevation of the- dislHeC^ to
whieh this metamorphosis, is due, still continues. The entraniee of the
gulf, once upwards of 18 M. in width, is now not more thi^n 3 M. across.
The marshy tracts are drained by innumerable canals. The Mi&rais affords
excellent pasturage and contains numerous productive aalf -marshes-, while
near the mouth of the S^vre - iNiortaise are, extensive ^bovehots*, or
Sparks* in which mussels and other shell- Ash are reared for the markets
of La Roehelie. This district and the other marshy regions fpinging the
sea-shore heyqotd it are. all more or less unhealthy.
77 M. NalUen, Beyond (80 M.) Le Lanfftm-Mouztil w«tr«ver8e
a eornjsf of tho- Marais and cross the river Ve»d^. 86 M. V4lluire;
line to BteasHire and Niort via. FontenAy-U'-Gojnte, see p. 31.
88 M. Vix.'- The larg^ vlilag« of this name lies 2V4 M. to'%h« left,
on a hill , irhich was formerly an island in the gulf (see abave)^ as
was also (93 If .) V lU'-d' EUe , beyond whieh we crosi the Slvre-
Niortaise, On this river stands (97 M.) MaMint (Hoi* den Postes),
a well-bttilt little town with a large grain trarde> wheii<»i a lime runs
via SurgertsM (38 M.) St. Jtan^d' Ang^ly (p. 17). At.(102 M.) Aw-
dillu-St-Ouen we quit the Marais, and fartherpn we skirt the MaranB^
and La' RochelU Can€d, whi<:h passes through a tunnel at (107^/2 M.)
DompUrre'Bitr- Her. To the left lie extensive salt-marshes.
90 M. LaBochelle. — Hotel*. HdtBt db Fbak'ci (Pl.a*, B,3), Rue
GargouUeau 36, B. from ai/o, B. ly ddj. 3, D. 31/ifr.', Du:CoMiiaaee (PI. c;
B, 3), Place d'Armet, R. 2Vs, d^- 21/s, D. 3fr.', nss Btsam&sks (PI. b%
C, 3), Rue Thiers 12; Richelieu, dbs Baivs, at the sea -bathing place
fsee below). — Oaffta: Des ColoHnvs, des Atilitairet, Plabe d*Armes ; IfaHonat^
Fronfah^ Quai Duperr^. -^ Bugretiot Ute station.
dabs. The tariff is arranged according to ^aenes\ charges ranging from
1 fr. per drive for 2 pers. in the 1st zone to 2Vs fr. ,in the 4th zone. —
Tramway in summer froni the Place des PetiU-oanct to the Ufatt (15 e).
SleoittbeaU. To the lie de Ri^ see p. 26. To the lU d' OUron (p. 97), once
daily in ii/3 hr. (fare 8, 21/3 fr.), Ian4ing 4t Bogardtfille, 8Vi M. from Le
Chateau (diligence i fr. 65 c.).
Sea Baths (p. 24): Bains de la Coneurrente, unpretending; Bains Louise,
similar, for ladies; Bain* du Mail. — Pot* and' Telegrafh Office (PI. B, 4),
Rue du Palais 12. — BriUsh Vice-ConBul : Mr. C J. ff. Hamilton.
La Roehelie, a seaport with 31,318 inhab. , a fortress of the
second class, and the seat of a bishopric, was the ancient capital of
the Aunit, and is now the chief town of the department of the
' Ua ll®€KiLAE
1:16,000
^•0 «IK 400 SOO
T/Sfe^N^'
Bordeaux Poitiers J)
A-
dv» eti:
nvpTnnepjd.
Warner i.T)ebfts I.fi;
io B<yrdeikux. LA tlOOflfiLLi!. /. ttouie 3, ^3
Charente Inferieure. It is situated on a bay ih the Straits of An-
tiocbe, sheltered by the islands of R^ and Ol^ron (pp. 25,27).
'Whether thia town wa« the Fortut Sanummm of the RomMis U un-
eeirtaiii. It firit appears in anqueettoned history at the end of the
lOtb eent, under the name of Rupella. Ineorporated with England to-
gether with Aquitaine, it was permanently restored to Franee In 1373^
afler whieh it enjoyed two eentaries of eommereial prosperity, hrought
to an end by the outbreak of the Beligloos Wars. Protestantism already
counted many conTerts hem when Conde and Coligay made the town
their headquarters in 1568. It was the chief stronghold of the Hugue-
nots, and tne cruisers of La Boehelle were well-known in the Atlantic
and the Bnglish Channel, fai 1672-78 the Iowa suceessfuUy withstood
a siege of upwards of six months. The re-awakening of religious bitter-
ness in the reign of Louis XIII. hurried it into fresh contests (1633, 1636,
1637-38) In whieh it was less successful. In the last of these it had
taken advantage of the hoBtllitiBs between Franee and England, and^the
latter country despatched more than one expedition to its relief, the
chief of which failed through the blundering of its commander, the Duke
of Buckingham. Richelieu succeeded In completely iuTOSting it , closed
the poH by a mole, part of whieh still exists (see below), and, after a
siege of lonumths, starred it into surrender. The fall of La Rochelle
destroyed the political power of the Huguenots, who never recovered
from this blow. Richelieu, however, did not abuse his vielory. In 1808
the Etnglisb made an unsnecessfal attempt to destroy the French fleet at
La Rochelle. The chief articles of the trade of La Rochelle, which
suffered greatly from the loss of Canada by France, in 1763, are timber,
coal, brandy, wine, vinegar, salt, preserved meats, and grain. Pishing is
also actively pursued and forms a staple industry. Among famous natives
of the town may be mentioned Reaumur (1683-1757), Bonpland, the natu-
ralist (1773- 1§58), and Admiral Duperre (1775-1846).
From the station the town is entered by the double- arched
PoBTB DB LA Gabb or St, Mcolcu (PI. C, 4), erected in 1857. The
Fortifications were constructed by Vauban in the reign of Louis XIV.,
the old works, except those on the seaward side, having been de-
molished after the siege of 1627-28. They form' an unbroken line
about 3'/t M. in length, strengthened with bastions, redans, and a
hornwork (near the station).
The Harbour (PI. B, C, 4, 5), to the left of the entrance to the
town, i& partly within and partly without the walls. Outside are the
Ottter tiwhour and a Floating Dock; inside are a Careening Basin,
a Dry Dock, a Canal, and the Reservoir of Mauhec, the waters of
which serve to scour the harbour. — Port de la Pallice, see p. 25.
The GouES desPame8(P1.B,4), on the other side of the dry-dock,
is embellished with a bronze Statue of Admiral Duperre (1775-
1846), by P, Herbert Opposite is the Porte de la Grosse-Horloge,
the only old gate remaining, a large square tower with round turrets
of the 14-15th cent., altered in the 17th and 18th centuries.
At the entrance to the dry-dock are two old towers (Pl.B, 5): the
Tour 8t, Nicolas (1384) to the left, and the Towr de la Chaine (1476)
oo the right. The first is square with four round turrets, and the
IntfBresting interior hasT)een recently restored. The second tower is
round and was at one time llO ft. in height. The harbour was for-
merly closed with a chain, and the Tour St. Nicolas seems to have
been united with a 'small chain-tower' (now vanished) by a Gothic
24 h Routt 3^ LA. RpCWPJ^I^E, FrQrnJiante9
aroh under which the ships passed. A Little farther on, in a straight
line, is the Lantern Tower (PI. Bj 5; 1446-1476), deriving its
name from having served as a lighthouse. It is round, flanked by
two turrefts , and surmounted by a stone spire. In the distancA, by
the Outer Harbour, risei the black and white RicMlieu Tower, with
a bell rung by the waves, whichi warns vessels of the mole men-
tioned at p. 23. The mol& itself is seen at low'^tide.
The Porte de Mery or Porte des Deux-Moulins (PI. A, 5), near the
Lantern Tower, leads to the Bathing Place (p. 22) , the arrangements
of which are good , though the bottom is covered with pebbles and
shells. Above the bathing-place extends the Mail, a promenade
planted with trees and a^ording a series of fine views. The Pare
Charruyer (PI. A,- 5 -2) skirts the fortifications totthe left.
At the Porte de laGrosse-Horloge (p. 23) begins the wide Rue
du Palais , flanked, like several others, with arcades. At the corner
of the Rue du Temple, to the right, is an interesting house, built in
1554. Farther on stand the Bourse and the Palais de Justice (PL B,
4-3), buildings of the 18th and 17th centuries. T^e Rue du Palais is
continued by the Rue Chaudrier , from whieh the Rue des Augustins
diverges to the right. In this last. No. 11, at the end of a court, is
the Hotise of Henri II, of the 16th cent., the most quaint and in-
teresting of the anment houses of La Roohelle.
The Cathedral {St, Louis or St. Barthe'lemy; PI. B, 3), at the
corner of the Rue Chaudrier and the Place d'Armes, was rebuilt
between 1742 and 1762 in the Greek style, b;^ J. Gabriel. Behind it
is Al'ower of the 14th cent., a relic of the original church. The
cathedral contains modern paintings , among which we may notice
the ceiling of the Chapel of the Virgin, in the apse, by Bouguereau.
The Place d'A^mes (PI. B, 3), the largest square in the town,
extends hence to the W. as far as the ramparts.
The Rue Gargoulleau, to the E. , leads ^o the former bishops'
palace, containing the Liljrary (Pl.B, 3), which is opeh on Tues.,
Thurs., and Sat, from 12 to 4 or 5. The Museum , in the same
building, is open on^ Sun. & Thurs. from 12 to 4 or 5, and on other
days also to strangers. Its chief contents are a collection of anti-
quities, modern French pictures by A- ^^ Pujol) Antigua, Bougue-
reau, Fromentin, Deschamps, Motte, G. Dor^, Corot, etc. , and works
by Giordano and Vien.
The Rue St. Yon, diverging to the right at the Plafce du Marich^,
leads to the ♦H6tel de Ville (PL B, 3), the most interesting building
in La Rochelle. It was erected in 1486-1607, partly in the Gothic
and partly in the Renaissance styles, and was restored in 1872-77.
Its most remarkable external features are a richly sculptured
gallery with a parapet, and two projecting belfries with corbels.
Ou the larger, to the left, is a recess with armorial bearings. The
facade towards the court, consisting of two distinct partfe, is still
more interesting. The smaller part, to the left, is of the time of
to Bordeaux, ROCHBPORX. /. BouU 3. 25
Henri II and hM a modern staircase in front, with a modem
statue is fayenee of Henri IV. The groundfloor of the part to the right
i8 formed of an arcade with fine semicircular arches and a sculp*
tured ceiling. The two upper stories are adorned with four niches
containing allegorical statues, between eight fluted columns, a dor-
mer window, pediments, and other ornaments of the time of Henri IV
(1607). Inside is the Council Hall in which Guiton, the mayor and
intrepid defender of the town during its blockade by Richelieu,
swore to stab any one who should suggest surrender.
Beyond the bathing- place, 3M. froaa the harbour proper (railway in
33 min.), lies La PalliM iBdt. Oontinenial; de rUnivert), with a Urge and ex-
cellent harbour, constructed in 1883-90 in the deep bay of that name, oppo-
site thf* lie de R^. The works, which can be enlarged if required, cost about
100,000<. Mail-steamers for Soath America leave La Palliee every fortnight.
In the neighbourhood of La Roehelle are numerous Salt Marnhet^ a
visit to which is interesting. Host of them lie just beyond the hornwork
mentioned at p. 33.
The Be de £«, about 10 M. to the W. of La Roehelle, is about l^M.
long and 2V2*3 M. wide. It is populous (9058 inhab.) but of little general
interest, consisting to a great extent of productive salt-marshes. A steamer
plies dailv from La Roehelle to La FlatU (sometimes going on to Si. Martin
de Ri) in'lVrU/a br. (fares 21/2 or 2 fr., return 3»/4 or 3 fr.). Another
steamer plies from La Palliee to (20 min. \ fare 66 c.) Sablaneeaux^ whence
a small railway traverses the whole island via (6 M.) La Flotte, (8I/2M.)
8t. Martin (see below), (13 M.) La Ccuarde (hdt. National), a bathing-resort,
(UVa W) ^r*«n-Ri (hotel), etc.
8t. Kartin-de-Ri (H6t. de France) is a small town and port on the N.
side of the island, with 2459 inhabitants. It suflered much in the English
wars; its fortifications are the work of Vauban. St. Martin is the depot
from which convicts are shipped to New Caledonia.
From La Roehelle to P(nUer$., see p. 8.
Beyond La Roehelle the direct line to Rochefort and Bordeaux
skirts the Ftrtuis or Straits of Antioche, bounded by the lie de R^
on the N. and the He d'OUron (p. 27) on the S.W. - 116 V« M. An-
gouUns (H6t. du Pare; des Voyageurs) and (117 M.) ChdieUiiUon
(Hot. Beau-S^jourj de la Plage; des Bains ; de I'Arriv^e) are two
small seabathing resorts. The ocean is steadily encroaching on the
land here, and has already engulfed the two towns of Montmeillan
and Ghatelaillon. — 126 M. St. Laurent^de-la-Pree.
A branefa - railway runs hence to (89/4 M.) Peuras (H6t. de$ Baim; de
roc4a»), a sea*hathing place at the mouth of the Obarente, with a castle
of the 14th century. — Near the Pointe de TAiguille, the extremity of
the right bank of the Charente , is the small He d*Enet , connected with
the mainland at low tide. About */4 l^- from the Pointe is the Jle d^Aix
(33/4 M. in length , and 1 M. in breadth) , which was the last refuge of
Napoleon I. before his surrender to the British. Both islands are fortified.
At (126 M.) Charras the train crosses the canal of that name.
t
130 M. IU>ehef9rt {Buffet), — Hotela. Hdi s:l ds Fsancb (Pi. a ; B, 3,4),
Rue du Rempart: db i^a Rochbllb (PI. b; B,4), Rue Chanzy: du Grand
Bacha (PI. c;B, 4), Rue des Fonderies and de TArsenal, R. 21/2*^^ ^- 3,
pens. 7Vs-10 fr.-, Lacostb, at the station. — CaMa, Ga/A FranfOin, Place
Colbert; det Voyageurt^ eorner of Rue Thiers and Rue Audry-de-Puyravault *,
des Meuogeriet^ at the station. -* Caba. Per drive 1 fr. for 1 or 2 pers.,
1 Va f'- for 3-4 pers. ; per hr. 2 fr. ; at night 2 or 3 fr. — Post and Telegraph
Office (PI. B, 3), Rue des Fonderies.
^6 /. Btmitt 3, tlOOHfitlORT. From N^te^
Roehtfort, a town and fortress with 85,528 inhab. , situated on
the right bank of the Charentej 0 M; from the sea, is a modem and
regularly built place, containing little to interest the trayeller. It
possesses a naval as well as a commercial harbour, which , lik« the
town itself, were first established by Colbert in 1666. The only
bridge across the Charente here is the recently erected 'Pont Trans*
ftordewr', a moving bridge slung from two towew.
The naval harbour and its vast arsenal are the lions' of Roche-
ort. To reach the entrance , which 1b near the end farthest from
the station , we turn to the right beyond the Porte B^gon (PL B, 2)
and follow the Rue du Rempart and the Rue Thiers to the Rue de
TArsenal. Or we may follow the Rue B^gon in a straight direction,
and then turn to the right into the Rue Ohanzy and the Rue de 1' Ar-
senal. Between the Rue Thiers and the RueChanzy are the Lyceum
and Church of St. Louis (P1.B,3), two modern buildings, the latter
containing some fine stained-glass windows. Adjacent is the Place
Colbert (PI. B, 4), the centre of the town, with a fountain. Farther
on, at the corner of the Rue de TArsenal, is a small Picture Gal-
lery, with a library.
The *Arsenal and the Dockyard (PL C, D,2-6) cannot be visited
without permission, to obtain which foreigners require a letter of
introduction from their government countersigned by a Fronch
minister.
The visit takes at least 3 hours. The departments are not always
taken in the same order^ and some of the magazines and workshops are
not shown. The Porte du JSoleil (PI. G, 4) is a handsome structure idi the
form of a triumphal arch. To the right are the Officeg^ eighteen Building
Slips^ for. vessels of the first rank', an interesting Jfotdel Rootnt several
Store Homest the JSail and Biffginf/ Workshops^ etc. To the left are Repair-
ing and Ctraving Doeks^ Anchors (some of which weigh froin 5 to 6 tons).
Projectiles y Torpedos^ Gannon^ and' a large Salle (2Mrme« ,. decorated in a
very ingeniotis fashion with arms or groups of arms' arranged as trophiea^
columns, etc. A Man-of- War, too, is often' ^hown. • . > .
Above this part of the arsenal, but outside the enceinte , is the
Naval Prefecture (PL C, 4)^ wl^ich contains nothing of special interest,
and behind it is tl^e Jardin Public, a fln« promenade.
Farther on, to the NtE. of the town, is ih^ Commercial Harbour,
or Cabane Carrde (PL 0, D, 1). It has two floating basins of moder-
ate size, and a much larger one (completed in 1890) higher up the
river. The chief articles of trade at Rochefort are wine, brandy,
grain, cattle, salt, timber, coal, and salt-flsh.
On the N. side of the town, outside the fortifications , . is a large
Naval Hospital (PL A, B, 2; 800 beds), with a School of Naval Med-
icine. There is also a very deep artesian well, the Wrflerof which
has a temperature of 100° Fahr. To the S. of the hospital extend the
Cours d'Ablois and the Cours Roy- Br y.
From Bochefort to Niort and PoitierSy see p. 8.
From Bochbpobt to Ls Ghapvs (He d^Oleron), 35Va^-t railw)ay in
11/8-18/4 hr. (fares 4 fr. 30, 3 fr. 10 c. , 2fr.). -^ To (7M.) Cabariot^ aee
p. 37. — 21 M. Marennet (H6t. du Commerce), a small town (6393 inhab.).
to Bordeaux. CHALLaKS. /. Route 3, 'Xt
/kmous for its ofsteri, Of whieh about 96,000,000 ai^ mnaaally exported.
The chureh has a Uth eent. Tower^ and there are nnmerous quaint old nouses
in the town. About 8/4 H. to the 8. is the small harbour. — From the
town an omnibus 0/«fr.) plies to (SI/qM.) La Cafennt^ whenee a steam-
ferry (free) eroeses the Seudre to La OrHe^ united by railway with Pons
and Beyan (p. 56). — From CK1/9 H.) L€ Chaptu a steamer C7S or 60 c.)
crosses to (1&-20 min.) Le Ch&teau or to St. Trojan in the lie dH!)I^ron.
The He d'OKrea, which with the He de B<^ (p. 35) bounds the straits
of Antioehe, and is separated from the mainland by the Straitt of Mau-
musson, is a flat, fertile, and populous island, measuring 18 M. in length
by 21/3-6 H. in width. Lt ChAteau-d' Oliron (H6t. de France) is a small forti-
fied town with 3573 inhabitants. About 7 H . farther on (diligence) is St.
Pierre-iT OUron (Hot. de la Renaissance), a town of 4419 Inhab., with a
cemetery eontatning^ a pretty' little beaeon-tower (*'lanterne des morts*) of
the 13th century. -- St, Tfojan (Hot. du Casino; dee Bains) is connected
itb Le Gh&teau by omnibus (76c.).
On quitting Rochefort our line describes a considerable curve
to regain the valley of the Charente, leaving the Poitiers line (p. 8)
to the left. — 133 Vs M. Tonnay - Charente (Hot. du Commerce),
a small town with a harbour on the Charente. — 136 M. Cabariot
(branch -line to Le Chapus, see above). — Beyond (I46V2 ^•) ^^'
Savinien-aur~ Charente, on. the 0)»p08ite bank of the river, are the
ch&teaux of Crazannes (l3-i8th cent.) and Paulois.
151 M. Taillebourg and thence to Bordeaux, see p. 17.
b, Vi& Ghallans and Ia Boohellt*
25S^|[. BA.ILWAT in lOVs-13^/4 hrs. (fares same as via Clisson). The
trains start from the Oare (TOrUanSt but stop also at the Gare de VEtaL
Arrival at the Oare St. Jean^ p. 43.
Nantes, see Baedeker's Northern France. — The train crosses
several arms of the Loire. 3^/4 M. Poni-Rottssenu ; 4V2 M. Les
Land^ ; 6*/^ M. Bouguenais ; 9 M. Bouaye. To the left is the Lac
de Orand-Lieu, in form almost oval, S'/j M. long by 3*/4 M. wide,
but very shallow, in the midst of meadows which it overflows in
winter. — 13 M. Port-St-Pere,
At (I6V4 ^•) S^^' Paxannt t^e line to Paimbomf and Pornic
diverges On the right (see Baedektfs Notthem France). ^^U M.
Machecoul. Near (30 M.) Bois^de-Ctfn^ we enter the Vendue. —
33V2 M. La Qamache.
37 M. Challawi (Oautier), a small commercial town (5453 inhab.).
Challftna is connected by railwav with (151/s M .) F^&mentine (hotel),
whenee steamers ply to tbe Jle ds ifpirmoutitr (10 min. \ minimum fi&re
60 c.) and to the 11* d^Ven (2 hrs. s 3 fr., 3 fr. 35 c). — The IsUnd of Hoir-
moutier, IS M. long and 41/3 M. wide, is separated from the mainland by a
narrow ebanttel C^Va M.) which is dry at low tide. The greater part of
its surface is below the level of high tides and requires to be protected
by dykes, but there are some picturesque rocks at Its N. end. In 1793-94
the possession of the island was vigorously disputed by the Vendeans
and the Republicans, and it was here that D^Klb^e, the commander-
in-chief of the former, was taken and shot. *- F'rom La Foue^ the landing-
place, a diligence (9 fr.) plies to (8V3 M.) Hoirmontier (H6UI dn Lion
d'Or)^ the chief town of the island, with 6093 inhab. and a small fortress.
About 11/4 M. to the K.E. H the sea-bathing resort of La dhaiie (H6t. de
la Plage) near which are woods of pines and evergreen oaks. La Chaise
28 /. Route 4. CHINONi
is [only 10 H. from Pornie (aee Ba«4»ker^i Niyrthtrn FreMce)^ wVich Uej
opposite it, on the mainland.
The He d'Yeu or Dieu^ a small fprtiaed inland, 6 H. long and 2l/g M.
broad, with 3489 inhab., lies 18 M. from the mainland. The «oa«t is very
rocky on the W., but easily accessible on the £., .where lies the harbour
of Port-Jointille (Hot. des Yoyageurs). The chief town is St. Sauvewr^ in
the centre of the island.
41 M» SoiUlana; 44V2 M. Comfneqtdert , a large village with a
rnined castle, and two dolmens known as the Pierrei Folles.
A branch-railway runs hence to (8H.) St. Oilles-sur-Vie (Maleseot), a
small seaport and bathing- place. Opposite is Croix-Ae- Vie (Barranger), a
small flshing-port.
Our line now crosses the Vie, 47 M. SU Maix^tU-iv/r-Vie;
51 M. Coex; 58 M. Ai««ntfy, a town with 4298 inhabitants. Beyond
(63 M.) La QenetouztYf^ join the line from Nantes vi& Clisson (p. 20),
and that from Tours to Lea Sables-d'Olonne (R. 4).
69 M. La Boehe-snr-ToB (p. 21). Hence to (253 M.) Bordeaux,
see p. 22.
4. From Tours to Les Sables-d'Olonne.
166 M. Railway in 6Va-8iM-8. (fares 25fr. 70, 19 fr. 10, 12 fr. 45 c).
The trains Start from the Gare de i*!&tat, beside the principal station.
Tours, see Baedeker's Northern France. — The line passes over
that to Nantes and crosses the Chtr,' — At (3V4M.) Joue-les-Tours
we leave the Loches-Oh&teauroux line (p. 33) on the left. 6*/^ M.
Ballan. Pope Martin IV. (Simon de Brion, d. 1285) was born in
the neighbouring Chateau de la Carte,
16 M. Azay-le-Bid?au (*Grand Monarque), with 2280 inhab.,
has an interesting Renaissance *Ohdteau, with a. good collection of
furniture (adm. daily alter 1 p. m.). — The line crosses* the Indre^
and beyond (20V8 M.) Bivarennes traverse^ the forest of Chinen.
27 M. Huismes. A tunnel of 1000 yds. is passed through.
31 M.Ghinon {Hot, de France, Plaee de ItHotel-db-Ville ; Boule
d'Or, on the quay; de V Union, Place Jeanne d'Arc, R. IVr*^ ^^j«
or D. 2Vt fr.) is a commercial town (pop. 6187); prettily situated
on the eminences of the right bank of the Vienne, and 6eLebrated
for its history and its Castle, It consists almost eoitictly of nar-
row and tortuous streets in which are still seen houses of the 15th
and 16th centuries. For a detailed deseription, see Baedeker's
Northern France,
Bbamch Limb to (9Va V) Port-Boulet^ on the line from Tours to Nantes;
sec Baedfker''t Northern France.
From Chimov to Port -dk- Pi lbs, 231/9 M., railway in l)/4-2l/4hrs.
(fares 3 fr. 86, 2 fr. 85, 1 fr. 85 c). This branch ascends the valley of the
Vienne. — From (3M.) lAgri-Rivikre^ a branch-line runs to (10 M.) Eiohe-
lieu (H6t. du Fai»on)^ with 2318 inhab., the birthplace of the famous Car-
dinal (1585-1642), who made a handsome town of It and built in it a splen-
did castle of which nearly nothing remains. At Champignj^-sur- Veude^ the
preceding station (3M.), there also stood a magnificent castle, of which
the chapel is still extant, built in the early Renaissance style, and adorned
LOUDUN. f. Route 4. 29
Willi be^aiifttl stained gUss by R. Pfnalgrier. — lOi/a M . llt'B»whatd^
with the rains of an lith eent. priory. — SSl/a M. P^rt-de-PUt (p. 9).
The railway crosses the Vienue at Chinon aiid affords a striking
view of the town. — 34 M. La Roche- Clermault, Beyond (42 M.)
BasseaSammarpolles the keep of Loudun is seen on the left.
45^2 M. L«Qitlii]i {Buffet; H6t, det lies, Plaee Camot; de France,
Piaee Ste. Croix), the JtUiodunum *f the Romans, is built on an
eminence (pop. 4617). It played an important part in the Religious
Wars and gave its name to an edict favourable to the Protestants in
1616; but it is still better known for the trial of the cur^ Urbaln
Grandier, who wa« burnt alive in 1634, on a charge of sorcery.
Loudun has still many old and narrow streets. Turning to
the left at the end of the Hue de la Gare, then to the right into the
Rue Seche, we reach St. Pierre-du- Marehe', a Gothic church with a
Renaissance poxtal, and a lofty stone spire. The itre^l on this side
of the Place leads to Ste, Croix, a fine Romanesque church with
nave and aisles and a transept , with ambulatory and small apses.
This church now serves as a maxket-house. — Turning to the right
on the other side of St. Pierre-du-March^, we reach the Palait de
Justice, in front of which a bronze statue, by Alf. Charrou, was
erected in 1894 to Tkeaphroite Renaudot (1686-1653), physician
of Louis XIII. and founder of French journalism (1631). Behind the
Palais, within a close, is the lofty square Keep of the old 12th cent.
castle. — The street to the left, beyond the close, leads to St, Pierre-
du- Martray^ a church with some good details in the Flamboyant
style. -^ Still farther is the Porte du Hartray, the chief remaining
portioit of the old fortifleatious of the town,
Fkom LoDpUH TO AvoBBa, 64 M., railway in 2l/4-7'/4 hrs. (fares 8 ir. 70,
6 fr. 45, 4 fr. 25 c). - 14 M. Moatreuil-Bellay (p. 14). We cross the Thonet.
About 3 M. to the S.W. of (18 M.) Le Vaudelnap is Le Fuf Voirt-Dame^
with a fine church of the 12th ednt. (tower 14th eent.) ^ 221/9 M. Dou^-
la-Foniaine (Boule d'Or). — 33 If . Jou€t%net-Chavagne$, Jouannet^ near the
station, has chalybeate and sulphurous springs used for bathing. — From
(331/2 M.) Per raff ' Jouannet k branch -line runs to La Possonnftre and
Chalonnes (see Baedeker^g Northern Frat$ee). — Briuae^ which we pass
on the left just beyond (411/8 M.) Quinei-Brissac^ has a magnificent ehlteau,
rebnilt In the 17tn cent., but retaining portions of the l3-lft(h centuries.
~ 4SM. Xiet PoBtfda-M (H^t. de la Loire; du Commerce; Pigeon d'Or)^ a
town with 8590 Inhftb.^ is built on three islands in the Loire, connected
with eaeh other and the banks on each side by means of four bridges,
with a total I«ngth of nearly 2M. (including the roads belween). These
bridges were rebuilt in 1846-66, but are of very ancient origin, being the
Pom Saii of the Bomans, and they have repeatedly been the object of
armed contests from the Roman period down to modern times. A statue
of Dumnaeus , (he Gallic chieftain, by Koel (1687), embellishes the Pont
8t. Xavrille. — We now cross the Loire snd beyond (50 M.) La Pyramide
«fteh (54 M.) Afi0ers (see Baedeker** Northern Frenee.').
FsoM ' LouDUM TO Chatbi<l.£Kault (p. 4) , SU/a M., railway in U/a-
lV4.hj". (fares 5 fr. 20, 8 fr. 85, 2 fr. 50 c.). The principal intermediate
station is (20V3 M.) Leneloitre^ a town which has sprung up around an
abbey of wbieh the Romanesque church is still extant.
FxoB LovDUii TO Poitiers, 4SV2 l^-i railway in li/s-41/3 hrs. (fares
^ fr. 25, 5 fr. 85,« S fr. 60 c). -^ 5 M. Arfov (see p. 90). — 12 M. JtonoantMr, a
30 /. Route 4. BftJKSSUIKE. Frmn Tours
viUago famous for the rietory of the Duke of Aigou (Henri III) over
the Frotestonts eommaniled by Coligny in 1569. li has a ruined easile
and a keep of the 13th century. Branch to (10 M.) AirvauU (p. 15), vi& St. *
Jouinrde-Mamet^ with its celebrated abbey. —231/211. JiireMaUy with the
remains of foftifieatione \ 38 H. IfntviUe-iU-BritoUy the janetion of the
Parthenay (Nantes) line (p. 8).
The railway Erkirta Loudun ou tbe side «f the P«rte du Msrtray.
— 50 M. Arpay, where the Poitiers line branches off (see above).
53V2 M. Pas^e-JeUy at the head of the Oanctl d€ la Dive.
About 31/2 M. to the 6.W. is Oiron, with a <kuUe of the 16th cent.,
which was inhabited by Hmis. de Montespan. It was raTaged at the Re-
volution, but the rooms are still richly decorated. Here too may be
seen enamelled plaques which probably came from the satne manufactory
as the splendid fayences of Henri II at the Louvre. The old Ohapel^ which
is now used as a parish ehureh, contains four fine mausoleums executed
in marble by Italian artists, but sadly mutilated by the Huguenots in
1568. There are four dolmens in the park o( Olron.
61 M. Thenars , also on the line from Saiimar to Bordeaux,
see p. 15.
The Sables -d'Olonne lin« now makbs a great carve and crosses
a viaduct 125 ft. high and 850 ft. long, which affords' a fine view, on
the left, of Thouars. The railway ascends nearly to Oerlzay, and the
fields of the district are arranged like those of the Bocage (see p. 21).
Beyond (74 M.) Noirterre, we rejoin and follow the line from
Nantes (Angers) to Poitiers, noting on the left the fine steeple of
Bressuire.
79 M. Bresinire (Buffet; Hotel du Dauphin), with 4668inhab.,
occupies a hill on the left. Like Thouars, it played a part in the
wars with England, and it was taken by Bertrand du Guesclin
in 1371. It has a very curious Castle of the 12th and 15th cent.,
the imposing ruins of which are visible to the right of the via-
duct before entering the station. It has two lines of defence with
48 towers, enclosing a modern ch&teau. — The church of Notre
Dame belongs chiefly to the 12th and 15th cent., and has a steeple
finished in the style of the Renaissance.
Lines to Nantet and to PoiUers^ see p. 8; narrow-gauge line to Montreuil-
Belloffy see p. 16.
■From Bbessuibb to Niobt, 48 M., railway in 3-21/4 lira, (fares 7fr.|96,
5 fr. 90, 3 fr. 86 c). — This line traverses part of the Socage (p. 31), with
eoal'-mines. — 9V8 ^- Jtfoneovtant , where flax is cultivated and a woollen
stuff made which is called 'breluche'. — 18M. BreuO-Barret, junetion for
La Bochelle (see below). -^ 31 M. Coulonfti-tur-VAuHset with a rained easile
of the 16th century. — 39 M. Benet. Line to Velluire, see p. 31. — 4IV9 M.
Coulon. We cross the Sivre-Niortaite. — 48M. Niort (p. 16).
Fbom Bbbssuibb to La RocHSLiiB, 661/2M., railway in SVs^A hrs.
(fares 11 fr. 60, 8 fr. 55, 5 fr. 66 c). To (18 M.) BrtuiUBarrei^ see above.
— Beyond (311/2 M.) ChAtaigntrai* we follow the valley of the Jf^e.
36 M. Ponteaay-le-Comte (Buffet; H6UI de France; de Fontareine)^ a ven-
erable town with 10,096 inhab., situated on a hill on the right bank of
the Vendue J which here becomes navigable. It suffered greatly during the
Religious an* Vendean wars , and almost all traces of its strongly forti-
fied castle have disappeared. The churches of Notre-Dame and at. Jean
have each a fine Gothic spire. The CMteau de Terre-Weuve (1595-1600) con-
tains interesting art coUeetions, furniture , etc. (visitors admitted). The
town po8se«s68 a handsome Renaissance Fountain and some inkeretting
toSablet'd'OL L£S SABLBS-D'OLONNE. l. Routed, 31
Id houaes. Br%neh4iiie to BenH (11 M.; Niort). tee p. 90. — 39^/2 M.
'ontainet' Vendue. — At (431/2 M.) VeUuirt we join the line fron Mantea
3 La Rochelte (p. 23).
82 M. Clazay; 89 M. Ctrizay , with a modern chateau on the
ight. We cross the Sevre-Nantaise. — 92 V2 M. St. Mesmin-le-
*'icux. We are now in the Vendee and in the Socage district (p. 21).
97V2 ^' Pouzauges. The large village , beautifully situated on
he slope of a hill, 2V2 M. to the N., boasts of the ruins of a large
iiid picturesque keep of the 13- 14th cent, which once belonged
0 the famous Gilles de Laval, called 'Bluebeard' (p. 8). In the
leighbourhood are several interesting castles, picturesque ruins,
md fine points of view.
104 M. Chavagnes - les - Redoux. The line crosses the Grand-
Lay on both sides of the station. — 112M. Chantonnay (pop. 4070).
The line, which intersects a very hilly tract, makes a wide curve
0 the left, followed by two cuttings and a viaduct affording a fine
new. — Beyond (120 M.) Boumezau is a forest. 125 M. La Chaize-
'e-Vicomte. Crossing the Yon we then rejoin the line from Nantes
to La Rochelle and Bordeaux (R. 3).
133 M. LaBoehe-iar-Ton, see p. 21. - Beyoud (13SVt M.)
Les Clouzeaux and the small station of Ste. Flaive, to the right, in
the distance, is the Chateau de la Bassetiere. 145 M. La Mothe-
Arhard; 151 Vj M. Olonne. To the right lie salt marshes, with large
heaps of salt, and a succession of sand-dunes.
156 M. Lev SableC-d*01onse. — Hotels. Hotbc i>b la Plagb, R. from
3, B. 1, d^j. 3, D. 4 fr. i H6t. dd Bemblai, both on the beach; H6tbl Mo-
DBRKB, JotiBTi Dear the beach; db Francb, du CJhbval-Bla'nc, in the town.
Oftffo. Ca/^ de la Plage^ Terminuty on the Remblai \ Cafi du Commerce,
in the town. — Sea Baths. Machine and towel 30 c. ; bathing-dress 30 e. —
Casino, adm. 1 fr. ; per month 30 fr. — DonkeyOf 50 c. per hour.
BritiBh Yioe^Oonsiil: Mr. TMophile Letter e.
Les Sables'd^ Olonne is a much-frequented se«i-bathiiig place,
with a small harbour and 13,000 inhabitants. Its magnificent sandy
beach, sloping gently towards the S. and stretching in a semicircle
for a distance of about 1 M., is 'flanked, by a wide esplanade called
the Bemblai and Quai de Franqueville, with a carriage-road (elec-
tric tramway) and numerous handsome houses. Near the end is an
Aquarium [^ If fr.). The town, however, is badly built, and the
church is its only object of interest.
To reach the beach from the station we turn to the right, into
the Rue d« rHotel-de-Ville, and then follow the Rue Travot, the first
street to the left. Carriages turn to the left farther on, at the church
^^ Notre- Dame- de- Bon- Port, a late -Gothic building, with fine
suiting, modern paintings, and stained-glass windows. To the W.
of the Remblai is the Casino, and farther on is the narrow Channel
leading to the harbour. Beyond the latter rises the Arundel Tower,
^modern ere<^tion t^Uh battlements and machicolations, which serves
^ a lighthouse. Adjacent are the ruins 6f a ch&teau of the same
32 /. BmUe 5. VIEBZON.
name. Here, too, lies the animportant suburb of La Chawme, near
which the shore forms a promontory bearing a small fort.
The Harbour lies to the N., between the town and this suburb.
Near it there are Oyster Parks, and farther off, some Salt Marshes,
which may be reached via La Chaume (ferry 5 c).
On Sundays and festivals the varied headdresses of the country-
women at Les Sables will attract the visitor's attention.
S. From Orleans (Paris) to Bordeaux vii F^rig^ieiix.
313 M. Railway in 14V4-19Va hrs. (fares 70 fr. 10, 47 fr. 30, 30 fr.
85 c). — From Orleans to Bordeaux vi& Tours, see B. 1.
I. From 0rl6an8 to Limoges.
173 M. Bailway in 4V4-9 hrs. (fares 31 fr. 36, 21 fr. 10 c, 13 £r. 75c.). -
From Parit, 348 M., in 6V3-13V4 hrs. (fares 44 fr. 80, 30 fr. 25, i9 fr. 70 c).
Orleans and thence to (49 M.) Vierson vU the Sologne, see Bae-
deker's Northern France.
49 M. YierzoB {Buffet; Hot, des Messageries; du Boeuf), a manu-
facturing town of 11,392 inhab., situated on the Cher and the Canal
du Berry.
Fkom Vibkzom to Touks, 70 M., railway In QI/q-Si/s hrs. (farbs 13 fr. 65,
8 fr. 65, 5 fr. 55 e.}. This line deseends the vaUey of the Chefr. Best views
to the left. — 10 M. AfennetoU'Sur-Cher^ with ramparts of the 13(h century.
— From (151/2 M.) Villefranche-mr-Cher (H6tel-Cafe' de Marseille) a branch
line runs to Blois, passing (5 M.) Ewn^rantia ^Jcmd'Orj* a cloth and
U«en manufacturing town of 8000 inhab., on the Qraode Sauldre. The
Edict of Bomorantin, in 1560, prevented the establishment of the Inquis-
ition in France. — SQi/a M. Chdbru-Qibfr^s. The church of Chaoris,
21/afM. to the S., dates from the 10th century. — From (26 M.) SelU$-$ur-
Cher (Lion d'Or) a diligence (IV4 fr.) runs to Valency (H6t. d'Espagne)^
noted for its magnificent Benaissance *Chdteau (visitors admitted), which
belonged to Prince Talleyrand, and was the place of retirement of Ferdi-
nand VII. of Spain from 1803 to 1814. ^95M. St. AiffnanNo^en. 8t. Aitnan-
■ur-Cher (ff6t. de la GerbeiTOr), an old town (3300 inhab.X with many
quaint houses, lies II/4 M. to the S. of the station (omn. 6O c). The older
part of the Chateau (13-16th cent.) has long been in ruins. The newer part
eoatains various works of art, including an ancient marble sareophagfus,
with bas-reliefs and an inscription in Qreek. The Church dates from
the close of the Bomanesque period. — At (39 M .) This^e are some Roman
Remains., supposed to be those of a ^mansio*, or military storehou.ne on
a Boman road. — 46 U. llontriehard (THe Noire t Croix Blanche).^ a small
town of 3S50 inhab., has a Donjon ^ dating perhaps frpm the beginning
of the 11th cent., surrounded by walls of the 13th and 15th centuries.
In a suburb to the W. of the town is the fine Church 0/ yantenily built
in the 12th cent. , with a Lady ()hapel of two stories on the N. aide,
added in the i5th century. — 50 M. Cheaonqeauz (lidtel du Bon laboureur.,
Aiy 2Va-3 fr.), a village with^a celebrated chateau, see Baedeker's Northern
France. — 66V2 M. St. Pierre-des-Cotps^ where we .join the OrliJans line. —
70 M. Tours (see Baedeker's Northern France).
From Vierzon to Bourges^ see Baedeker*$ Northern France.
We now leave the Bourges line on the left and cross the Cher
and then the Anion. 58 V2 M. Chery» Among the numerous cha'-
teaux seen on the right the most striking is that .of T^ Ferfe-
CHATfiAUBOUX. /. Route 6. 33
BeuiUy (17lh cent.), heyoud (61 M.) HeuiUy. The line now follows
the valley of the Theola to (67 M.) Ste, Lixaigne,
71 M. luoi&dttn (Hotel de France) ^ a town of 14,116 iubab.,
situated on a declivity to the left, and surrounded by vineyards. The
towil sustained several sieges by the English in the Middle Ages and
one by the army of the Fronde in 1651, which have left very few of
its houses standing.
Turning to the left on leaving the station and then to the right,
we reach the Place du March^, in which is the modern PalaU de
Justice and a 16th cent. Town Qate, A little to the left is the
Hotel de VUle, in the garden of which is the Tour Blanche^ a keep
of the beginning of the 13th cent, 88 ft. high. The Mueie in the
Hotel de Yille is open daily 9-4, except Mon. and Friday.
The Rue de la R^publique leads from the Place du March^ to
St, Cyr, an uninteresting Gothic church with a large ancient
stained-glass window.
A braneh- railway runs henee tu (16 M.) 8t, FloretU (p. 343) ▼!& the
little town of (71/2 M.) Okdroti.
79 M. Neuvy-Pailloux. — 84 M. Montierchame. Before reach-
ing Ghateauroux, we cross the Indre^ To the tight are the fine
towers of D^ols (p. 34) and Gh&teauroux.
88 M. Ch&teauronz {Hotel Ste. Gather ine^ Place du March^; de
France , Rue Victor Hugo ; du Faiaan, Rue de la Gare 66, R. 2,
D. 2V2 ft".; de la Oare, unpretending; Orand Caf/, Rue Victor
Hugo), the chief town of the department of the Indre, with 23,863
inhab., is situated on the left bank of the Indre. It is now a manu-
facturing town of some importance and has been much improved
in recent years. Its chief products are woollen stuffs and coarse cloth.
The *€hurch of St, Andrewy a few minutes' walk to the right
of the station, is a fine reproduction of 13th cent. Gothic, built in
1864-75 from the designs of A. Dauvergne. The interior contains
some fine stained glass by Lobin of Tours and others; a large
WTought-iron chandelier by Larcheveque, of Mehun, near Bourges;
and a stone organ-loft.
A little farther on are the Place Lafayette (p. 34) to the right, and
the Place Gambetta to the left, the latter with the Theatre and a
War Monument (1870-71), by Verlet. The Rue Victor Hugo, behind
the theatre, leads to the Place du March^ and the Hotel de Ville.
In the latter is. a small Museum (entrance on the other side; open
on Sun. from 1 to 4, and to strangers on other days also), contain-^
ing paintings by Brueghel, Franck the Elder, Le Bourguignon, etc.;
engraviags; ^lamels; souvenirs of Napoleon L and his friend Gen-
eral Bertrand ; and the c«8t of the Tomb of St.Ludre (p. 34).
Near this point is the Chatbau Raoul (Chateaurouz) which
gave its name to the town, an edifice of the 14-15th cent., now used
as the Prefecture. To see it properly we mast descend to the bank
of the Indre by the Eue de la Manufacture, passing in front of
Baedeker. Southern France. 4th Edit. 3
34 /. Route 5. LOCHES. From bfleam
Notre- Dame, another handsome modem church in the AuTergnat
Romanesque style.
The Rue Grande, beyond the H^tel de Ville, leads to St. Martial,
an old church of little interest, and terminates at the other end of
the Place Lafayette. The latter is adjoined by the Place Ste. HAene,
which is embellished with a 8tatue of Oeneral Bertrand (1773-
1844), in bronze, by Rude.
D6ols , s/4 M. from Oh&teauroux , reached by a pleasant road begin-
ning at the Place Lafayette, poaseases the mine of a onee notorioiw
abbey, consisting of the fine Tower of the interesting Romanesque church
and some fragments of sculpture (to the right on entering the village).
Farther on, to the left, is a Oatewaff of the 10th cent., with two round
towers. Beyond this stands the Church of St. Si«ph€n^ the crypt of which,
to the right of the choir, contains the Ton^ of St. Ludre^ supposed to be
a work of the Oallo- Roman period. The church also possesses some
paintings, which are interesting as giving views of the ancient abbey.
Fbom Ghatbauroux to Tours, 74 H., railway in ^f^-^/% hrs. (fares
13 fr. 45, 9 fr. 10, 6 fr. 95 c). — This line follows the valley of the Indre.
— 16 H. Buzaniaii^ which is to be connected by railways with Le Blanc
(p. 9) and Villefranche-sur-Gher (p. 33). — 21 M. PaUuau-St'GtMU. The
former contains a ruined chateau, seen in the distance to the right; the
latter, an interesting Abbey Church of the 11th century. Kear (Sb If.) Le
Clion, to the right, is the CMUau de Vlle-Savary. The Indre is then
crossed several times. — 31 M. ChdtUton-tur-Indre (Hdt. de TEurope),
which has also a ruined castle, with a keep of the 13th century. As
we approach Loches we have a fine view, to the left, of its keep and
chateau. To the right is the steeple of BeauUeu,
44 H. XiOohM (Mdtel de France; de la Promenade) ^ a town with 5182
inhab., picturesquely situated on the left bank of the Indre, possesses &
celebrated *C€Utle^ the ancestral home of the Plantagenets. For a descrip-
tion of the town and castle, see BaedekerU Northern Franee. — Branch-lines
run hence to the N.E. to (iS^/a H.) Montrisor, with a Renaissance chAteau
and a fine church of the same period, and to the S. W. to (13 M.) Ligueil.
661/2 M. Cormery^ with a fine spire. — 68 M. Montbaton^ dominated
by the huge keep of a castle which dates back to the 11th century. On
the top is a modem statue of the Virgin. — 681/3 M- JotU-Ue- Tours
(p. 28). — 74 M. Tourt (see Baedeker'* Northern France).
From Ghatbauroux to Momtlu^ok^ 65 H., railway in 3V4*3l/4 hrs.
(fares 11 fr. 85, 7 fr. 95, 5 fr. 15 c). — Ascending the valley'of the Indre,
we reach (8 H.) Ardentes (hotels), a small town, situated to the right,
with a partly Romanesque church. — 15 H. Jfers; 20 M. Nohant, with a
eh&teau formerly inhabited by George Sand (see below).
22 M. La Gh&tre i*H6tel St. Germain or Descosset, Rue Kationale), &
commercial and industrial town with 4860 inhab., on the left bank of the
Indre. In a square 1/9 M. f^om the station is a fine marble Status oj
George Sand^ the famous authoress (Baroness Pudevant, 1804-76), by
A. Millet. Proceeding thence to the left, we reach the Churchy which
contains some fine modern glass and a painting by Helm. To the left,
beyond the church , is a square Tower^ a relic of the chateau of La Gbltre,
and farther on lies the fine Promenade de VAhbaye^ overlooking the valley.
Beyond La Cb&tre, on the rLzht, we pass the Chdteau de la Matte-
Feuitly^ which dates ftom the l2th century. We then quit the valley
and ascend towards a plateau where eheatnnts are e|(texisiirely groT^n. —
31 M. Champillet -Ureters^ a large station where a branch-line to (28l>^ M.)
Lavaud-Franche (p. 243), via (20 M.) Bouttae, diverges on the Mght. —
801/9 M. ChAteaumeUUmt y a town with 3790 inhab., has an intereating
ehateau and eliurch, situated in a finely wooded district. Beyond (42 H .>
Culan^ to the left, is a small lake. The train then crosses two viaducts,
the second of which is very high. — 48 Va H. St. DMr4y with a noteworthy
to Bordeaux. ARGENTON. /. Route 5. 36
Romaoesgue ebureh (to the left); 611/alf. Couriait, Extenaiye view to
the left. Farther on, in the valley of the Cher, we Join first the Bourges,
then the Gu^ret line. — 65 M. Monilu^cn^ see p. 341.
95V2H. Lf/anf , in the Brenne^ a district in parts marshy and
sterile. Beyond (99 M.) Lotkiers the train passes through a tannel
Va M. long and crosses a viaduct, which affords a striking view of
the -valley of the Bouzanne, which we soon cross, and of the magni-
ficent 15th cent, ch&teau of (104 M.) Chnbenet.
lOTVaM. Argenton (Buffet; Hotel de la Promenade), a little
town (6118 Inhab.) on the Creuse, the Argentomagus of the Romans.
We turn to the left on quitting the station. The Creuse is here
spanned by two bridges, near the second of which are several quaint
old houses. Of the castle, destroyed after the war of the Fronde,
only a few scanty remains are now extant. — Branch -line to Le
Blanc and (70 M.) Poitiers, see p. 9.
About IViM. to the N. is St. Marcel y a small town of 2466 inhab.,
formerly walled, with an interesting ehureh of the Transition period. —
In the pretty Vallep of the BoMxanne^ which is traversed by the road from
Argenton to Chateauroux vi& 8t. Mareel, about 4 M. f^m the last town,
are several eastles, some in rains, but others still inhabited. About 1/9 ^^
below the road , on the right bank , is the (kutU of Rocherolles. At the
same distance above the road, also on the right bank, are the ruins of
Prnnget; I1/4 M. farther on, on the left bank, are those of MeuHret^ on the
site of a Celtic -Roman town. Still farther on, on the right bank, are
the eastles of Brwtof (2 M.) and Ple»$i8 (l/a M.).
The Valleff of the Creuse., above Argenton, also displays some fine scenery.
The village of OargilesM (N6tel Chamblant), 71/3 M. from Argenton, by the
right bank of the Creuse (a fine walk), possesses a Transition church, with
a fine crypt , wall-paintings of the iSth cent. , and a curious old tomb.
Adjacent is a ruined castle. About 2 H. to the W., on the left bank of
the Creuse, are the remains of the castle of La Prune-av-Pot.
Near (113Vt ^0 Celon, to the right, we see an old castle. —
120 M. Eguwm (Hdt. de France), about 1 Vt M. to the E. (omn. 35 c).
About 3 M. to the N. is the ruined castle of Chdteaubrun (no adm.),
on the right bank of the Creuse. — Station of La CKapelle-Baloue,
About 21 /a M. to the E. lies Cronnt (H6t. du Rendet-Vous det TourisUs).
On a rugged and sheer promontory, at the confluence of the Sidelle and
(he Creuse, stands the picturesque ruined *Ca$tl* (adm., 60 e.), a medieoval
fortress of which the history is almost unknown.
From (126 M.) St. Se'bastien (Buffet), a branch -line runs to
(28 V2 M.) Gu^ret (p. 243). - 129 M. Forgevieille.
136 V2 M. La Sonterraine (Hot. de France; de la Paix), a town
with 4586 inhab. , still possessing a fortified gate of the 16th cent.
and a very interesting Romanesque and Gothic church. In the
cemetery is a Lanterne des Morta, a kind of tower in which a lamp
was formerly kept burning through the night.
We next pass through a tunnel, Vs M. long, piercing the granite
rock which forms the groundwork of the plain extending from
Argenton to Thiviers (p. 39), about 40 M. beyond Limoges.
142 M. Fromental, with a chateau. Farther on our line is joined
on the right by that from Poitiers (p. 9) and crosses a lofty viaduct.
Fine view of the valley of the Gartempe. — 149 M. Bersae. The
3*
36 1. Route 5. LIMOGES. From Orleans
railway skirts (on the right) the wooded hills of the Ec^c^^m (2250 ft)
and threads a tunnel piercing the central chain of the Limousin.
153 M. St, Sulpice-Lauriere (Buff«t), a picturesque village sur-
rounded with mountains, Vt M. from the station. From St. Sulpice
to Poitiers, see p. 9 ; to Gu^ret, Montlugon, etc., see p. 243.
Our line next passes through a tunnel, Vs^- ^^^^Si ii^^o ^^^
valley of the Vienne. 157 M- La Jonchere. — 162M. AmbazaCf with
3758 inhab. and a church , in the Romanesque and Gothic styles,
containing a beautiful Shrine of St. Etienne de Muret in gilt and
enamelled copper (12th cent.) and a dalmatic (deacon's garment)
given by the Empress Matilda, wife of Henry V. of Germany (d.
1125). — The train now passes through two tunnels and reaches
(166 M.) Les Bardys -St- Priest , beyond which it crosses a viaduct
111 ft. high. - 173 M. Limoges (Buffet).
Limoges. — B«ilw«y SUtiona. Gare des BinidictiM (PI. D,2,3), the
central station \ Oare de Mondavi* (PI. A., 2), for the line to Angoulenrev
communicating with the former.
Hotels. *Gba.nd - Hotel db la Paix (PI. a; G, 4), Place Jourdan, 11.,
3-6, B. IVa, dej. 3, D. 31/2 > omn. Va^.; Gextbal (PI. h^ 0 4), Place
Jourdan, similar charges; Boulb d*Ob (PI. c; A, 3), Boulevard Victor
Huso 8, R. 31/2-3^ B- 1^ <i4j- 31/s, D. 3fr.; Gbavd Hot. Vetbiras (PI. e;
A, 3), Rue Montmailler 29-33, near the Gare de Montjovis, R. 2s/4-3V4>
B. 1, dej. 21/21 ^- 31/21 omn. 1/2 fr.; **Gaillaud, Place Jourdan, next door
to the Hotel de la Paix, B. 3, D. 3 fr. ^ du Commerce, Boul. Louis Blanc
(PI. C, 4), R. n/oj B. i/j, d^j. 2, D. 21/a fr.
Reatanrant. Central^ s^e above. — C%U», De VUnivert^ Place Jourdan ;
Centralf see above; de la PaiXy etc., in the Place de la Republique.
Cab for 1-2 pers., per drive 1 fr. , per hr. IV2 fr. \ for 3-4 pers. I1/2
or 2 fr. ; at night IV41 2, or 2V2 ^- ~ Tramways traverse the Boulevards.
Poat and Telegraph Oflloe (PI. B, 3), Boulevard Carnot 7.
American Cenanlar Afent: Mr. Walter T. Qriffen.
The Churehe* are closed from midday to 2 p. m., aeeording to a eustom
common in the S. of -France.
Limoges, the ancieTit capital of the Limousin, now the chief
town of the department of the Haute Vienne, the headquarters
of the 4th army corps , and the seat of a hishopric « rises in the
form of an amphitheatre from the right hank of the Vienne. Pop.
83,569. The town has heen greatly improved in the 18th and 19th
cent, since its fortifications were demolished, hut the older quar-
ters still contain numerous narrow and tortuous streets , with maay
old timher-built houses.
At the time of the Roman conquest this town was the capital of
the Lemoviees^ a powerful Gallic tribe, able to send 10,(X)0 men to the
succour of Alesia. After its incorporation with the Roman empire it had a
senate and abounded in fine buildings, such as temples, theatres, palaces,
public baths, etc., of which, however, scarcely any trace remains. St. Mar-
tial, the patron-saint of the Limousin, first preached the Gospel here.
The town preserved a part of its importance down to the Middle Agea,
but unfortunately it formed two distinct towns, often at rivalry witheach
other, and it suffered much during the English wars, espeeially in 1370,
when it was taken and sacked. The Religiotts Wars, plague, and famine
desolated ii afresh in the 16th cent., and in tt)3()-3i it again suflered from
a terrible visitation of the plague. Under the administration of Turcot
(d. 1781) it began to revive, but a terrible fire consumed nearly 300 of
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to Bordeaux. UMOGES. /. Route 5. 37
its houses in 1790. Of the numerous other fires from which it has suffered
the most disastrous was that of 1864.
Limoges is well known as the birthplace of the greatest masters in
the art of eaameUing, whi^h seems to have flourished here as early as
the 12th cent, and reached its culminating period in the second half of
the 16th century. The most famous masters were Nardon Finieand^
Lionard Limousin, Jian and Pi*rr€ Couriaiffs, Pierre ReptMnd^ and Noil
Laudim. At the present day the poreelain of Lipioges is highly prized.,
and the kaolin, or china-clay , prepared here, is exported to America and
other countries. Admission is easily obtained to one of the numerous
poreelain manufactories in the town , which employ about 5000 workmen
and produce goods to the valne of about 15 million fr. per annum (chiefly
for America). Limoges has also thread and textile manufactories, large
shoe and sabot-making workshops, etc.
The Gare des B^n^dictins or d'Orl^ans (PI. D, 2, 3) is in the
lower part of the town, near the Place Jourdan and the cathedral.
On the right, above it, is the Champ de Juillet (PI. C, 2, 3) , a large
square, to the N. and W. of which lies an extensive modern quarter.
On the right is the Monument des En f ants de la Haute 'Vienne
(1870-71), a pyramid with a bronze group by Thabard (1899).
The Place Jourdan (PI. C, 3, 4) is adorned with a bronze Statue
of Marshal Jourdan, of Limoges (1762-1838), by £lias Robert.
From the Place Tourny, adjoining the Place Jourdan on the N.W., the
long Boulevard Garibaldi leads to the (Va V.) Place Sadi-Carnot (PI. B, 1),
embellished with a Monument to Sadi-Oamot {{iilSt-9i') y the late President,
who was a native of Limoges, by Clanssade.
The ^Cathedral of St. Etienne (PI. D, 4) , the most important
and interesting building in the Limousin, only recently completed,
occupies the site of a Romanesque church, of which the crypt (see
below) still exists. The foundation dates from 1273 ; the choir was
finished in 1327; the S. portal a little later; the N. portal and two
bays of the nave in the latter half of the 15th century. The remain-
der of the building is partly of the 16th cent, and partly modern.
To the left of the main portal, recently completed, is an octagonal
Spire (200 ft.) rising in three stages from a square and massive
lov^er story. It is partly Romanesque and partly Gothic in style
and is surmounted with turrets. The N. PortM is very richly
ornamented, but has no statues except on the central Jamb.
The Iktbhioh presents a very imposing appearance. Above the entrance
is a magnificent Rood Lojt, executed in 15^34 and placed here In 1789.
Its ornamentation, which is of the utmost delicacy, includes, curiously
enough . six bas-reliefs representing the Labours of Hercules. Some of
the Stained - Ola»$ Windows date from the 14th cent. , but have been
restored in the 16th and 19th centuries. In the choir are the interesting,
though somewhat dilapidated, Tombs of three bishops: to the right is
the tomb of Raynaud de la Porte (d. 1335) \ to the left those of Bernard
Bran (d. 1349) and Jean de Lanjeac (d. 1641). The last has lost its bronze
statue, but retains fourteen bas-reliefs representing the visions of the
Apocalynse. — The Crypt, under the choir, is at present inaccessible. —
In the sacristy are some magnificent Enamels by Moel Laudin.
The streets to the W. of the cathedral lead to the Hotel de
ViLLE (PI. G,d), a fine structure in the Renaissance style, built in
1876-1881 by Alfons Leclerc.
38 /. Route 6. LIMOGES. From OrUan$
The Boulevard Gambetta, which ascends. hence to the W., marks
the limits of the ancient town. — The old Rue de la Batickerie
(PI. B, 4, 5) is still exclusively occupied by the batchers, whose
guild was formerly very Influential. In front of the little church
of St. Aurelien is a fine stone cross (15th cent.).
The church of St. Michel (PL B, 4), the spire of which, surmounted
by a ball of disproportionate size, the visitor will have noticed on
arriving, is of the 14 -15th cent. , with nave and aisles of equal
height and width. It contains some stained -glass windows and
three beautiful modern altars.
To the W. of this church is the Place d'Aine (PL A, 4) with the
Statue of Qay-Lussac (1778-1850), the chemist, by A. Millet (1890).
Here also is the Palais de Justice, This building and the Place
d'Orsay, behind it, occupy the site of the Roman amphitheatre.
Adjacent, to the N., lies the extensive Place du Champ-de-Foire.
On theN.E. side of this square is the Mus/e Adrien-Dubouc'he,
or Musee C^ramique (PL A, 3), rebuilt in 1896, one of the chief ob-
jects of interest in Limoges, now belonging to the State. It is open
to the public on Sun. and Thurs. from 10 till 12 and from % till
4 or 5 o'clock, and to strangers on other days also. It consists
mainly of a rich collection of porcelain and fayence, but contains
also the municipal museum of painting and sculpture.
The Place Denis -Duuoubt (PI. A, B, S), a little farther to the E., is
named in honour of a LimouAin avocat. who was killed in Paris before
a barricade at the coup d^^tat of 1851. His statue, by Bardelle, was
erected here in 1893.
The Rue Turgot, to the £. of the Place du Champ-de-Foire, leads
back to the Place Jourdan, passing near the Place de la Republique
(PL B, C,3,4), on the S. side of which stands the Theatre (PL B,4),
The Chwch of St. Peter (S/. Pierre; PL C, 4), on the right side
of the Rue Porte Tourny, dating chieQy from the 13th cent., is of
irregular shape , with nave and double aisles all of the same height.
At the end it terminates in a flat wall. The interior, contains at the
K. end a fine stained-glass window of the 16th cent, by P^nicaud,
representing the Death and Coronation of the Virgin (to the right
of the high-altar) , and some good modern windows.
The chapel of the Lycee (PL C, 4), to the S. of this church,
contains an Assumption erroneously ascribed to Rubens.
An interesting excursion may be made from Limoges to Soliffnae and
the- Cattle of Ohalvuet^ see p. 86.
From Limoges to Angoultme^ see p. 13; to Le Dorai and Poitiers^
see p. 9; to PMgueux, see p. 39; to Toulousey see B. 13.
From LiMOOBS TO UssBL (CV«rmofi<-/(errafid!>, 71 M., railway in 33/4-4 hrs.
(fares 12 fr. 66, 8 fr. &&, 6 fr. 66 e.). — The train starts from the Qare des
Ben^dietins (p. 36) and ascends the valley of the Vienne. i5i/s K. St.
Lionard (Boule d*Or), an old industrial town of 66d0inhab.^ has a Roman-
esque church of the 11 -12th centuries. — 32M. Eymoutiert (Hot. Pintou),
a busy little town on the Vienne, has a Romanesque church (Gothic choir),
with fine old stained glass. — From (391/) M.) La (klU-Corrkte k AiWg^nce
plies daily to (iO^/a M.) Treignae (Hut. de la Bagatelle), a quaint little
town on the valley of the Vez&re. Beyond (45^/2 M.) Viam the railway
rSSTBWW^
to Bordeawt, PliBIQUEUX. /. Baute 6. d9
erotaea th« Vesere, »ad fttUina Ito highoat leTel (3015 ft.). — Ai (63 M.)
Mefmae we join the line from Tulle to Clermont-Ferrand. — 71 M. Ussel^
see p. 249.
n. Trom Limof •• to BordMnz vU Ftrigneax.
Railway to PMifutuiey 61 M., in X-Va-^U hrs. (fftres 11 fr. 10, 7 fr. 46,
4fr. 90 e.)} from PfSricueuz to Bordeaux, 79 M., in 31/2-^/3 l^rs. (fares
14 fr. aO, 9 fr. 60, 6 fr. Ss e.).
The line passes under the town by a tunnel 1115 yds. in length.
7 M. Beynac ; I2V9 M. Nexon, a place of 307d inhab., with a church
of the 12th and 15th and a chateau of the 16th century. Line to
Toulouse via Brive, see R. 13. - 17 Vj M. Lafarge, Fine view to
the left. From (23 Vj M.) Btisaiere-Qalant a branch-line diverges to
Saillat (p. 13). Beyond (30 M.) La CoquUle we traverse moorland
and pass through a short tunnel.
38Vt ^' TUviors (Hotel de France), a prettily situated commer-
cial town (pop. 3383) , with a Romanesque church of the 12th
cent, and the fine Renaissance Chdteau de Yococowr (now a hotel).
firaneh-Iine to Angoulime vii Nontron, see p. 13. — Another braneh-
Hne runs to (44M.) Brivt (p. 87), vii (12 M.) Exeidevil (p. 41), (20 M.)
HauU/ort, with a chateau of the 16-17th eent., and (86 M.) Le Burg (p. 87).
After passing through another tunnel we reach (45 M.) N^grondea
and (51 V2 ^0 Agonac , the latter with a Romanesque -Byzantine
church. — 56 M. Chdteau^l' Evique, so named from its chateau, a
building of the 14th cent, which was once the residence of the
bishops of P^rigueux.
Tram WAT via Ghaiieelade to BranUtme and 8L Pardaux, see p. 41.
The train now crosses the Befturonne several times , describes
a wide curve to the left, and enters the valley of the Isle, The line
to Bordeaux runs to the right, crossing the Isle.
61 M. F6rigneaz. — Hotels. HdTBLDBFsAHcB (Pi. a -,0,3), Place
Fxaneheyille % x>bs MissAaBaixs, same Place (PI. bj D. 3); Da l^Ukivbrs
CPl. cji), 3), Rue de Bordeaux; duPbrioobd (PI. d',E, i). Place du Palais-
de-Justiee *, *do Gommbbcb bt dbs Postbs. Place du Quatre-Septembre (PI.
D, »), B. 21/2 fr., B. 60-76c., d^j. 21/3, D. 3 fr., omn. 50 c. — •BuJTet. — CafU
in the Place Bugeaud and Conra Michel Montaig;Be.
Cabs. Per drive 60 c, per hour 85 c. •, with two horses 1 fr. 36 c. —
Tranmaps, flee p. 41. — Pott A Telegraph Office (Pi. E, 1), Goura Kichel
Vontaig^ne.
Perigueux is noted for its pat^s of partridge and truffles (^P^rigord pies').
Pirigiieuxt the capital of the department of the Dordogne, is
a town with 31,400 inhab., conspicuously situated on the right bank
of the Isle. It is .the ancient Veauna, the capital of the Petrocorii,
or rather it has taken the place of that town , which was situated
farther to the S., to the left of the station (see p. 41). To the right,
on the high ground, is the modem town , Le Puy- St- Front , and
below lies the Cfit^, or mediseval town. Under the Romans Vesuna
enjoyed considerable proiperity^ and it became tlie capital of the
countship of P/rigord in the time of Charlemagne. The English
besieged it three times but did not take it till 1356. It was after-
wards sacked by the Huguenots, who occupied it from 1575 to 1581.
40 /. Route 5. PJtRlGOEUX. From Orliam
Turning to the right at the station aiid following the Rue Papin,
and then following to the left the Rue des Mobiles-de-Coulmiers
and the Rue de Bordeaux, we reach the Place Bugeaud (PI. D,2),
which is adorned with- a bronze «tatue ef Marshal Bugeaud (1794-
1849), a native of P^rigord , by Dumont. A few paces to the right
is the Place Franchevflle (p. 41); to the left, the Gours Michel
Montaigne (see below). The Rue Taillefer leads in a straight direc-
tion to the old Place MarciUac (PI. E,2) and (left) to the —
< Cathedral of St. Front (PL F, 2) , an old abbey - church dtsdi-
cated to the patron -saint of P^rigord. The entrance is on the N.
side. This church was formerly one of the most remarkable in
France, but the restoration, or rather reconstruction, begun in 1853,
has deprived it of much of its intefest. Thoroughly Byzantine in
design, presenting the form of a Greek crosd with cupolas, but hav-
ing slightly pointed arches instead of round ones in the arcades
below, it was looked upon as the first church in which the pointed
arch had been systematically introduced. Some authorities ascribe
the erection of this church to 984-1047, others to 1125J150. The
interior measures 184 ft. both ways, and its five cupolas, resting on
pendentives and carved square piers , are about 90 ft. in height.
Adjoining the cathedral on the W. are the remains of a basi-
lica of the 6th cetit., above which rises a curious •Toweh, ld7 ft.
high, the oldest in France and said to be the only one extant in the
Byzantine style. It dates from the beginning of the 11th cent., but
has undergone some modifications and has recently been restored.
It is composed of two square stories (the first with pilasters , the
second with columns), a circular dtory surrounded by a colonnade,
and, lastly, a kind of dome covered with fish-scale omamentatton
(like Notre-Dame at Saintes, p. 18).
The Rue St. Front, which leads to the right, passing in front of
the Freemasons' Lodge, a noteworthy modern edifice, ends to the
N. of the cathedral at the Cours Tourny (PI. E, F, 1), a fine prome-
nade planted with trees, and containing the Museum, the Prefecture,
and a statue of F^nelon.
The Haienm (PI. F, 1), to the right, has recently been rebuilt,
and the collections are not at present accessible to the public. They
include Roman sculptures and inscriptions, enamels, coins, porce-
lain, etc., besides a gallery of paintings and sculptures.
Farther on , at the end of the Cours Tourny , we obtain a fine
view of the valley of the Isle. To the left rises the Prejecture , a
modern building in the Italian style. At the opposite end of the
Cours is a bronze Statue of Fenelon^ a native of P^rigord (1661-
1715), by Lanno (1840).
To the left lies the Conrt Miehel Kontaigne (PI. D,E, 1,2),
which extends Arom this point to the Place Bugeaud (see above) and is
the most animated part of the town. It is embellished with statues
of two other illustrioua natives of P^rigord: Montaigne, the
to Bordeaux, BRANTdMB. /. Route 5. 41
essayist (1533-92), also in bronse by Lanno, and OenenU Danmeanil
(1776-1832), in bronse after Rochet.
Returning to the Place Bugeaud , we descend to the left to the
Place FrancheviUe (PL D, E, 3) , near which , on the left, rises the
Tour Mataguerre (PL £, 3) , a relic of the 15th cent, fortifications.
The street on the other side of the Place Francheyille leads to the
church of St. XtieniLe (PLD,4), in the Git^. This church, which
was the cathedral until 1669, dates from the 12th cent, and re-
sembles St. Front in style, but it has now only two cupolas. In
th« interior is a carved oak reredos, 30 ft. high and 36 ft. wide,
executed by a Jesuit in the 18th cent, and representing the As-
sumption. The pulpit and the frescoes by Brucker deserve notice.
The street to the right, in front of the church, leads to the N. W.
to the ruins of the Amphitheatre (PL C,3), a Gallo-Roman erection
of the 3rd cent. , the only remains of which are a few arches and
fragments of walls, in the middle of a square. The amphitheatre was
about 440 yds. in external, and 290 yds. in internal circumference.
The street running to the S. from the Amphitheatre crosses the
railway by a bridge, whence there is a view of the Ckdteau Barriere
(PL C,4), dating from the 10-12th cent., and built on the Roman
fortifications, of which two towers still remain. It was burned by
the Protestants in 1575. The entrance is on the other side. Beyond
this bridge is the Tour Vesone (PL D, 4), another relic of the Roman
period. This is a cylindrical building, open on one side, which is
supposed to have been the eella of a temple.
From Perigueux to Agen and Tarbet^ see R. 13; to Brive (3ViU<, Cler-
mont-Ferrand^ ete.), see R. 96 B, III. — Grotte de Miremont^ see p. 83.
FsoM Pbbioubux to RisisAC, 33 M., railway in i-iVahr. (farei 4 fr.
15, 3 fr. 80, 1 fr. 80 e). — I31/3 M. LMe. — The line then follows the val-
ley of the Dronne. I41/4 M. Tocant-Si-Aprey 3 M. to the N. of which
U X« Grand- Brauae ^ boasting of a Romanesque -Byzantine ehureh of the
13-lAth eent. witheupolas and Tery remarkable sculptures in excellent pre-
servation. — IS K. St. Miard. — 23 H. Ribirac (p. 13).
FaoM PiBiocKux to St. Pabdoux (Nontr^n)^ 33 M., steam - tramway.,
starting ft>om the Place Francheville (PI. D,E,3). - 41/3 M. Chaneelade,
with an old abbey -church. — 7 M. Ohdteem - V Evique (p. 39). — 16 M.
Vateuil'Bowrdeillety S/4 M . from which, on the Dronne, is Bourdeilles , which
has a curious castle of the 14th and i6th cent., with a keep 190 ft. high.
— QOViM. 9nmUnf(Bdtel Ombrol), a town of 3344 inhah., prettily situated
on the Dr&nne. It possesses the interesting remains of sn old Benedictine
abbey, dating from the days of Charlemagne, and once owned by the
chronicler Pierre de Bourdeilles (1537-1614), who assumed its name. The
Bonanesque Tower^ standing on a sheer rock honeycombed with cayerns,
is one of tlie oldest in France. The Church is partly Romanesque and
partly Gothic. Adjoining are portions of the l5th cent. CM»ter. The
abbey itself (now the Jfairie) was rebuilt in the 18th century. — The
eh&teau Of Jtiehemonty 5 H. to the N.W., was built and inhabited by Bran-
tome. — 33 H. St. Pardouzy on the line from Angouleme and Xontron to
ThiTiers (p. 3»).
Fbom P&bi«ubux to St. Ybibix, 46Vs^--> steam - tramway from the
Place FrancheviUe. The chief station on this interesting route is (SSl/j M.)
Exeidtma ip. S%\ with a ch&teau of the Talleyrand -Perigord family (13-
16th cent.). — 46I/3 M. St. Yrieix, see p. 87.
42 /. Route e, BORDEAUX. ffoteU.
The Bordeaux line now follows the valley of the Isle as far ai
its confluence with the Dordopne, crossing the river several
times. Many picturesque castles are seen on the banks. 67^2 M
RazaCj in a hilly district. — 72 M. St, AstUr, with a domed chur J
of the ll-i2th cent, afterwards rebuilt. — 77 M. Netivic, with I
ch&teau of the 16th century. From (83 M.) Muasidan a branch-line rui
to (20 M.) Bergerac (p. 63). — About 3 M. to the N. of (93 ||
Montpont is the Carthusian convent of Vattclaire , dating from ti
14th cent and restored in the 19th. Beyond (104 M.) St. M^da%
we join the line from Paris to Bordeaux. l()8Vt ^* Coutras, ^
thence to (140 M.) Bordeaux, see p. 13. i
6. Bordeaux.
BaUway Stations. Bordeaux has four railway stationa : (1) Oare d$
Bastide (PI. £, 4,5),' belonging to the Orleans Co., on the right bank
the Garonne, facing the town \ (2) Oare St. Jean or du Midi (PI, E, 7; buiR
to the S., on the left bank of the Qaronne, IVs M. from the centre of i
town, communicating with the Qare de la Bafltide and the Gare de TB
and served by the fast trains from Paris (see p- 3)^ (3) Oare de VEtat (
E, 5), near the first-mentioned, chiefly for slow trains on the State lij
(4) Oare du Midoc qt St. Louis (PL D, 1) at the N. end, for the line
that name and for trains to Le Verdon (B. 7). — There are no hotel-oia
buses, but the trains are met by railway-omnibuses and cabs (see p. 4
Hotels. *Gbakd HStel db Frakcb. Rue Esprit-des-Lois 11, close to '
Bank (PI. C,4), E. from 31/2, »• IV21 d«j. 41/2, D. 6I/2 ft. ; *HdTBL dbs Pi
CES BT DB LA Paix, Richblibu bt DBS Ambassadbuks , Gours du'Chap<
Rouge 40, near the Grand Theatre (PI. C, 4), R. from 3, B. li/si d^j. 3
D. 4 fr. \ *db Batoknb, Rue Martignac 6, near Notre-Dame (Pl. C, 4)i no tal
d*hdte (restaarant): Ghavd HdxBL H^tbopolb. Rue Gond^ and Rue Bsp
des-Lois, near the Theatre, R. 3-15, L. A A. IVs-^i B. I1/3-9, d^.4, D.O
(or k la carte), pens, from 12 fr. ; db Toulousb, Rue Vital Oarles 6 and I
da Temple 7 (PI. G, 5)^ Comport ablb, Allies de Tournr 85, well sitoai
db Vicb, Place du Ghapelet 4, R. 3tr.\ MoirritA, Rue Hontesquien 4, hi
meubl^, R. 3-7 fr. *, dbs Am^iricaims bt Nigollbt (commercial), Bne Condi
d6i. 3, p. 31/2 fr. ; DBS QuATRE S<BURS, Cours du Trente-Juillet 6, R. %
31/s fr., restaurant k la carte; Kormamdib, Rue Gobineau and Conrs
Trente-Juillet; Lamta, Rue Montesquieu 6, near the Marehe des Graa
Hommes (PI. C, 4) ; ou PiiRiflORD bt d'Orlj^ams, Rne Mautree 9, R. 2V4i B
d^i. 21/a, D. 3, pens. 81/4 fr. •, Gr. Hdr. du GaMTRa, Rue du Temple 8 and.
Hot. bt Rbstauramt Frav^ais, Rue du Temple 12 (PI. C, 5), R. 2>/4>B. 1, i
21/9, D. 91/2, pens. 6-8 fr. -, Bbbli, Rue Voltaire 10, with garden ; D*AQniT4
BT DB LA Girobdb, PlBce St. Rcmi 4 and Rue du Pont de la Mousqu^
HdTBL Tbrmihus, between the arrival and departure platforms of'
Oare St. /«cm, R. 6-8, B. IV4-IV21 d^j- A. !>• 5 fr., or k la carte. Oppfl
this station are several new hotels, conyenient for passing traTelf
HdT. du Faisan, d^j. 2i/j, D. 3 fr. j •Commbroial, R. 2-S, d«j. 2l/j, D. I
DU Primtbhps, d«j. 21/2, D. 3 fr. ; Oabmot, d«j. 2, D. 21/2 f'- '
Restaurants. At most of the hotels \ Chapon - fHn^ Rue Montesqud
also a hotel: H6t. de Bayonne^ see above; Beeli^ see abovef; Oriseky 0
de Tourny 5i\ de ta Comidte^ at the Grand Theatre, ddj. or p. 6 Cr/
Louvre y du Palait,, Cours de Tlntendance 21 and 0, ' ' ''"
Tarteme Oruber^ des Deux Che/St Allees de Tonrnyi
la (^m^die 3, d«j. or D. 2i/q fr. •, *0a/^ Bibent, Aliec
D. 2V2 fr- ; Restaurant det Voyagours^ same street,
21/4 ». — Parisien, Rue Mably 7 (PI. C, 4), d<j. iV2>
^^ays. BORDEAUX. /. Route 6, 43
«. C€^fg Oe Bordeaux^ Place de la Com^die 3; Ottfi de la Ommidie^
j^rancl Tbeatre; Grande Tcneme^ Gmber^ Brand Cttfi AnglaU^ etc.,
^. side of tbe Allies de Tourny ^ G<tfi de rOpira, Goors du Chapeau-
K)^ CarOii^al^ Tortani^ MontetquieUy Goors da Trente-JaiUet 2, 8,
. JBibent y Allees de Tonmy 1; Coq d'Or^ Bae Montesquieu; 2Vrc,
Val>iiel^ at the Exebange. — Ameritam Bmr^ Rue 8te. Catherine.
>s. ^Witli one horse, per drive 1 fr. 50 e., per hr. 3 fr. (open eab
e.) ^ at nigbt (midnight to 6 a. mO 3 fir. With tiro horses, 3,3, and
- In liiring by time the first hour must be paid for in full, after
tlie time maybe reckoned by spaces of V4 ^r. — Luggage: 50 c. for 1
iekages; then 35 e. per package. — Outside the barrier the charges
me what higher. — Per ZMy (12hrs.), 15,30, and35fr. aeeording
carriage.
ectrio Tramways (uniform fare 10 c). 1. From Ihe Boulevard Jean-
's Boteq (to the S. E. of PI. F, 8) or Footbridge (PI. E, 7) to the Rue
> Faure (Pi. F, 1). — 3. From the Place Magenta (Pl. B, 6) to the Baitide
,4). — 3. From the Oare du Midi (PI. E, 7) to the Gare du Midoc
,1) or Rue Lucien Faure. — 4. From the PUue de Bourgogne (PI. D, 5)
3 Boulevard du Tondu (to the W. of PI. A , 6). — 5. From the Place
lieu (PI. G, D, 4) to the Boulevard du B&uteat or de Caudiran (PI. A, 3),
tie Allies de Tourny. — 6. From the Place Richelieu to the Boulevard
udSran^ via the Rue Judaique (PI. A, B, 4) or Rue de la Croix-Blancbe
\.^ 4). — 7. From the Place Richelieu or Oroix de St. Genie to the Boulevard
Tlence (PI. B, 8), via the Rue de 8t. Genes (Fl. B, 6-8) or Rue de Pessae
B, 6, 7). — 8. From the Place d'Aquitaine (PI. C, 6) to the Boulevard
"alence (Pl.B, 8), via the Route de Toulouse (PI. G, 7, 6^, or vift the
te de Bayonne (PI. B, G, 7, 9. — (hnnibases. 1. From the Rue Lueien-
re (PI. F, 1) to the Pastage Lormont (to the TX. E. of PI. F, 1). — 3. From
Quai des Ghartrons (PI. D, 3, 3) to the Couri d^Albret et d'Aquitaime (PI.
i). ^ 3. From the Place de la Comidie (PI. G, 4) to the Place Nanumtjf
{ Boulevard de Bhgles (PI. G, 8). — 4. From the Jardin Public (PI. B,
i) to the nace d'AquUaine (PI. G, 6). — 5. From the Place de la Bourte
. C, D, 5) to the Boulevards du Tondu and de Caudiran (PI. A, 3-5). — There
^ other tramway and omnibus services in the environs.
Railway OmaltmMS. These ply from the following offices in the town.
or the Gore de la Basiide: Rue Gobineau 3, at the Allees de Toumv (stari-
»g V4 ^f- before the departure of the train). For the Gare du Midi:
'mn du Trente-Juillet 18 (starting 35min. before the departure of the
nln). For the Gare du Midoc: Rue Gobineau 3. Fare from the office
25-30 e., from a private house 50 c. ; each article of luggage 30 e.
Steamers. HirondelleSt Gondoles^ and Abeilles ply in the harbour and
tu places in the immediate vicinity. Larger steamers run to Castets, La
^ole^ Agen, and other places above the town, and to Pauillac, Royan, etc.,
below (see p. 53). Ferry to La Bastide every 5 min. (10 c). — For the
^tft^mers of the Mei»agerie$ Maritimes^ of the racijlc Steam Navigation Com-
Hny, and of the Compagnie Ginirale Tramatlantique (South America, etc.),
tte the Indleateur or the Livret Ghaix.
Commissionnaires. Per 1/2 l^-i ^ith a letter, 35 c. ^ per hr. , with a
HTcel of any weight 50 c, or 60 c. if a barrow is reauired.
Post ft Telegraph Ottea, Rue du Palais-Gallien 7-13 (PI. B, 4) , near the
te Oambetta; several sub-offiees. — Telephone to Paris, 3 minutes* use
Vi fr. by day, 3 fr. 10 e. at night.
Tittfttrds. Grand - Thddtre (PI. C ^ i) , for operas (prices 1-6 fr.)-,
iiUredetAtii (PI. B, 4, 5-, Va* fr.). Rue Castelnau-d^Auros 1-7 j Tkidtre
iidit or Olympia (PI. B, G, I: 'A'^Vs fr-). — Gaeino det £4la$^ Boul. de
leran. — Cirque Bordelais^ Quai de la Grave, above the stone bridge.
h BoNdt play at Les Qutnconees (p. 46), In the Jardin Public (p. 47), Pare
fitktit (p. 52), AlUet de Toump (p. 47), etc.
Baths. Hot Baths, at numerous establishments. Cold Baths, Eeoles
>)iatatioQ, above the Pont de Bordeaux, etc. Hydropathic Establishment,
' ee Loiuebaiup 4 (PI. B,d^ from 60 c).
Oolf ChA (9 holes), 31/2 M. from the town.
44 /. Routt 6. BOUPRA.UX. Pont de Bordeaux.
Ooaaulates. British Consul,. iTr. W. R. Hearn^ Cours de Gourgues 9;
Viee-Consul, Mr, W. P. S. Patmer-Sambome. — American Ck>n8ul, Mr. Albion
W. Tourgit,
Enfliah CKnroh, Cours du Pav^-des-Chartrons 10 (PI. C, 3); Chaplain,
Ret. J. W. L. Burke. — French Protestant Churchee, Rue du Ha 33 (PI. C, 5),
Rue Notre-Dame (Pl.D, 3), Rue Barennes 19 (Pl.B, C.3), and Impasse St.
Jean (Pi.D, 7). — German Proteetant Churchy Rue Tourat 31 (PI. C, 8).
Bordeaux, the ancient capital of Ouyenne, the chief town of the
department of the Oironde, the headquarters of the 18th army
corps, and the seat of a bishopric and a university (5i'acuUies), is
a town with 257,471 inhah. , situated on the left bank of the Qa-
ronne, 16 M. from the Bee d'Ambes at the confluence of this river
with the Dordogne (p. 55)^ and 60 M. from its mouth on the Atlantic.
It is the fourth largest town in France and also one of the leading
towns in the republic in virtue of its commerce (p. 45), its splen-
did site , and its imposing appearance. The Garonne furnishes it
with an excellent harbour and with a safe and convenient water-
way to the ocean.
Burdigala^ the eapital of the Biturigei Fivisct, was one of the chief
cities of Gaul in the Roman period. It became the capital of Aquitania
Secunda^ endured the devastations and the yoke of the Vandals, Visigoths,
Franks, and Normans, and became part of the Duchy of Aquitaine or
Guienne, which passed to England on the marriage of Eleanor to Henry
Plantagenet (see p. 5). More fortunate than other towns of the proTinee, it
sufi'ered little from the wars for supremacy between France and England,
and it became loyally attached to its new masters, who did much to
encourage its commerce, and retained it in their hands for 300 years (down
to 1453). The imposition of the salt -tax, under Henri II, caused a
serious insurrection here, for which the town was cruelly punished by
the Constable de Montmorency in 1648. Contests also arose between the
Catholics and Protestants of Bordeaux, and !264 of the latter were mas-
sacred after St. Bartholomew's Day. The district was again disturbed
by dissensions under Louis XIV., who regarded the town with particular
favour. From the reigns of Louis XV. and Louis XVI., when Bordeaux
had for its governor the Marquis of Toumy, date its principal embellish-
ment and the construction of its spacious thoroughfares. The ambition
of its ''Parlement* was easily repressed ^ but it did not so easily eaeape
the consequences of revolting against the Convention after the proscription
of the Girondins, at the head of whom were Vergniaud, Guadet, Oen-
sonn^, Grangeneuve, Ducos, and Fonfr^de, the deputies of the depart-
ment. The town could not reconcile Itself to the rule of Napoleon, who
ruined its commerce, but its attachment to the Bourbons was also luke-
warm. In 1870^71 it was for three months the seat of the Provisional
Government, and then of the National Assembly, which here accepted tht>
preliminaries of peace with Germany.
The traveller who alights at one of the stations in La Basiide
(PI. D, E, 4, 5), the suburb on the right bank, at once gains an
idea of the imposing character of the town , as he enters it by the
*Pont de Bordeaux (PI. D, 5), which commands a splendid *View.
This bridge , one of the most remarkable in the world , was erecteU
of stone and brick in 1819-21 by Deschamps and Billaudel. It is
532 yds. long and 16 yds. wide, and has 17 arches, the central and
widest of which have a span of 87 feet. Inside, between the archies
and the roadway, are passages, which lighten the structure and
facilitate its being kept in a proper state of repair without interrup-
futtr. BORDEAUX. /. Rwitt 6, 45
the traffic. The interior may be visited (9-11 and 1^5) by
ig to tHe custodian, who lives at the Bastide end of the bridge.
* up tlte river we see the Railway Tubidar Bridge, which is
s. long and has a passage for pedestrians. Near it, on the
wklL of tlie river, is the Gate St, Jean. Below the Pont de
Aviix.. a ^pont transbordeur' (comp. p. ^) is about to be erected.
Ae SarboTur is one of the chief attractions of Bordeaux. The
iiie b.erQ describes an almost complete semicircle , the arc of
ti measures 3 Vs M« &nd the radius about 2 M. Along this cres-
stretclies the town, which is in the shape of a half- moon and
rely 1^/4 M. across at its widest part. Although Bordeaux is
I. from the mouth of the Gironde, the tide comes quite up to it
vessels of !iOOO or 2500 tons easily reach the port. The ordi-
f depth of the river here is 20 ft, and this is sometimes doubled
jprlug-tides. From 1000 to 12(K) ships can anchor in the bar-
ir *, and a vast floating basin, 25 acres in extent, has lately been
\6tracted lower down, at the end of the quays, for the accommo-
tion of the largest vessels, of which it can hold seventy or eighty.
tacious quays, dating, like most of the adjoining buildings, from
ve end of the 18th cent., extend from one end of the harbour to the
iheT.
Bordeaux, wbieh now rMiks as the third seaport of France, has
egular eommunieations with most of the ports of the Atlantic, the English
Channel, the Iforth Sea, and the Baltic, with N. and S. America, with
Africa, and with India, and its shipping amounts annually to nearly
3^/2 millions of tons. Its commerce is eliiefly in wines, colonial produce,
met&l-i, Bnglish coal, timber from If. Europe, vinegar, grain, brandyi and
manufactured products. It is at the same time an industrial town, and
has a large number of dockyards and establishments for the supply of
everything connected with shipping.
The Cours Victor Hugo (PI. C, D, 5, 6 ; see p. 51), which forms
a continuation of the Pont de Bordeaux and bends to the right to-
wards the cathedral, marks the limits of the old town, which in the
other direction (down stream) did not extend beyond the Place des
l^ulneonces (p. 46). The Porte de Bourgogne, at the beginning of
tbe Gears, was erected in 1751-55, but altered in 1807. From
the Qua! de Bourgogne, the first below the bridge, the Cours d'Al-
iau^Lorrnine (PI. C, D, 5), a wide and handsome new street, leads
to the W. direct to the cathedral. Farther along the quay, to the
left, is the Forte i>e Oailbau, railed also Porte Royale or Porte du
Palais (PI. D,5], the ancient gateway of the Palais de TOmbriere.
pulled down in 1800, once the residence of the Dukes of Aquitaiiie,
«)d afterwards the seat of the gOTernors of the district and of the
Parlement of Bordeaux. It is a fine Gothic structure flanked by two
round towers dating from 1495.
The Quai de Bourgogne iis adjoined by theQuai de la Douane,
with the Botel de la Douane, or Custom House (PI. C, D, 5) , built
by Jacques Qahriel at the end of the 18th cent., under the Marquis
ijit *" I lift Tourny. Adjacent is the Place de la Bourse , adorned with the
46 /. Route 6, BORDEAUX. Orand-Thedtre,
fine bToiiKe Fontaine dea Trois Grdcea, executed by Oumery , after
Visconti (1869). The Hotel de la Bourse or Exehanpe (PI. C, 4, 5),
which is a counterpart of the Hotel de la Pouane, built at the same
time and by the same architect, was restored in the 19th century.
The old allegorical sculptures on the pediments of the Bourse are due
to Francin, the new to Coueffard (Place Richelieu) and to Jouandot.
In the Place Richelieu is a Monument to President Carnal, by
Barrias (1895).
A little farther on is the Place dei QniiieoiieeB (PI. 0,4) , the
largest in Bordeaux, occupying the site of the Chateau Trompette
(Tropeyte), built at the same time as the Fort du H& (p. 50) , by
Charles VII., after the submission of Bordeaux in 1453, to ensure
the obedience of the town. This chateau was destroyed in 1789.
The Place is 425 yds. long and 360 yds. wide, without reckoning
the semicircle with a fountain, which forms an addition to it on
the side opposite the quay. On the side next the river are two
Rottval Columns^ 65 ft. high, surmounted by statues of Commerce
and Navigation, by Manceau, and serving also as lighthouses.
Nearer the middle of the square, among the trees, are colossal marble
statues Qf Montaigne (1533-92; to the S.) and Montesquieu (1689-
1755; to the N.), two celebrities of the province, by Maggesi (1858).
On the W. side of the place a *HoBuneBt to Xkt Oirondins (p. 44).
by Dumildtre and Rich, was unveiled in 1897. The design includes
a column surmounted by a glided bronze statue of Liberty and sur-
rounded by groups of the leading Girondins; and two fountains
with figures of Concord and the Republic seated in cars drawn by
sea-horses.
^The Cours du Trente-Juillet, which runs along the W. side of
the Quinconces , ends on the N. at the Jardin Public (p. 47) and
on the S. at the Allies de Toumy (p. 47) and. the Plaoa de la
OomMie (PI. 0,4). The last, which owes its name to the neigh-
bouring theatre, is the busiest point in the town, of which it may be
called the centre. To the E. runs the handsome Rue Esprit- des-
Lois, and to the S. is the busy but narrow Rue Ste. Catherine* The
S. side of the Place de la Oom^die also joins the main line of
thoroughfare intersecting the town from E. to W. (comp. the Plau>.
The Orand-Th«&tre (PI. 0,4), built in 1755-80 by Victor Louis.
but restored in 1864 and 1881, has long ranked as one of the Aiiest
theatres in Europe. It is in the classical style and is 290 ft. lon^;,
154 ft broad, and 62 ft. high. In front is a portico of twelve Corinth-
ian columns, above which is a balustrade with twelve colossal
statues. At the sides are spacious colonnades. The most noticeable
features of the interior are the vestibule, with its sixteen Ionic
columns; the grand staircase, which ascends in two flights; and
the circular auditorium, which is embellished with twelve compo-
site columns. Above the vestibule is a concert- hall. -> In this,
theatre the sittings of the National Assembly were held in 1871.
irt rt^hlic. BORDEAUX. /. Rvutt 6. 47
ind the theatre is the Prefecture (PI. G,4), alao built by
in 1775 , for the 'Avocat G^n^ral' of tiie Bordeaux Parle-*
The facade, towards the Conrs du Ghapeau-Rouge, was restor-
873.
b Allies de T^nraj (PL G,4), an oblong *Place', formerly
Ished -with trees, now oifer one of the most animated scenes
deaux. Most of the larger caf^s (p. 43) are situated here. [[^
each end is a monumental fountain. In the middle formerly stood
ze statue of 17apoleon III., by Debay, on the pedestal of which
be read tbe words from his famous Bordeaux speech (1869) : ^L*em-
'est la pais*; but this was removed in 1870. — A military band
biere on Tues. in summer at 8 p. m.
little to the left is the church of Hotre-Bame (PI. G, 4), fouud-
the IBth cent. , rebuilt in 1701 in the style of the period, and
ed in 1834. The internal decorations are elegant and luxu-
We note especially some paintings by Bomain Gazes, the
of wMch is a large fresco representing the Madonna enthroned
L), and the organ-loft.
'o the right of the church, in the Rue Mably, is the Publie
airy, open daily, except holidays, 11-4 and 8-10 in winter,
5 in summer; during the vacation (Sept. and Oct.) on Wed.
, 11-4. The library comprises upwards of 150,000 volumes and
MSS. The chief treasure is a copy of the 1588 edition of the *Es-
' of Montaigne, with annotations in the handwriting of the au-
'. There is here also an interesting Collection of Antiquities (Sun.
Tliurs., 11 to 4 or 5). — Behind the library is the Marcht des
inds-Hommes (PL G, 4), a circular market-hall of iron and glass.
On the N.W. the Allies de Tourny end in a small circular Place
th a bronze Statue of Tourny^ by Leroux, erected in 1900 in
tee of an earlier work then removed. To the left diverges the
UTS de Tourny, leading to the Place Oambetta; to the right is
e Cours du Jardin -Public.
The Jardin PabUe (PL 6, G, 3) , which was originally laid out
i the Marquis de Tourny, but completely transformed in 1859, is
le finest promenade in Bordeaux. It consists of two parts: an
English Tark, with a large number of splendid magnolias and other
xotics, and a well-stocked Botanical Oarden, with large conser-
'atoiies. A grove of Ghina palins (Ghamaerops excel sa) flourishes
lere in tke open air. The park is much f^quented on Sun. and
TliuTS., when a military band plays here at 8.30 p. m. in summer
and 3 p. m. in winter. — On the S.W. side of the garden, and with
a direct entrance ftrom it, is the Museum, open on Sun. and Thurs.,
li-5 in summer, and 11-4 in winter, and to strangers en other days
tlso. It comprises natural history, ethnographical, and priehistoric
eoUectiotts ; the first being much the largest.
Leaving the Jardin Public by the gate at the S.W. corner, beyond
the Museum , and taking l^ie Rue du Golis^ , the fourth cross-
street to the right, we see in front of us the main part of the ruins
48 /. Route 6, BORDEAUX. 8<. S^tin.
of tho Amphitheatre (PI. B,3), also called the Palais QtMien
because the Emperor Gallieims (d. 268) is supposed to have erected
it. The arena proper was oval in form and measured 84 yds. by
60 yds., while the whole structure was 144-149 yds. long and 114-
124 yds. wide. A great part of the building was still standing in
1792. The four arches under which the street passes fbrmed the W.
entrance. The ruins at this point are still over 60 ft. in height.
From the amphitheatre we may proceed to the S. to the old
cathedral of St. Seorin (PI. B,4) , built in the 11th cent on the site
of a much more ancient church. Parts of the building, however,
are not later than the 13-ldth cent., and a few additions have been
made more recently still. The W. facade, which is surmounted by
a spire, is of the 11th cent., but it was masked in 1829 by a poor
porch. On the S. side is an interesting ♦Doorway of the 13th cent.,
with a Renaissance porch in front of it. The principal subject of
the sculptures, which have been restored, is the Last Judgment.
The ISTBBioR is borne partly by enormous round pillars, and partly
by pillars grouped with half- columns. The church is throughout em-
bellished with fine modern stained-glass windows. To the left, in front of
the choir, is a large new Oothic chapel, near which is a chapel of the
13th cent., with graceful arches and a handsome altar. The choir con-
tains an elaborate episcopal throne in the Flamboyant style. On an %ltar
in front of the throne is an ancient alabaster altar-screen., part of whieb
is in the Chapel of the Virgin. Its sculptures, comprising about 40
groups, represent the Crucifixion and scenes from the life of St. Seurin,
Bishop of Bordeaux in the 5th century. Under the choir is a very old and
interesting Oy;>(, divided into three vaulted aisles with semiairealar
vaulting (for adm. apply to the sacristan). It contains a Renai^^nce ceno-
taph , placed over the tomb of St. Fort, first Bishop of Bordeaux, the
tomb of St. Veronica, and six marble sarcophagi, of the 4 -6th eent.,
adorned with sculptures.
In the Rue St. Seriiin stands the Jnatitution Nationale des
Sourdes' Muettes (Institution for Female Deaf- Mutes; PI. B,4), a
handsome classical building, with a statue of the Abb^ de Tfip^
at the entrance. Nearly opposite, to the S., is a large tcolti Pro^
ftswionnelU.
A little farther on the Rue Judal'que ends at the Place Ga$nhetia
(PI. B, 4, 5), a fine square, from the S.E. corner of which the Rue
Porte-Dijeaux, so named from an old town-gate, leads to the Ru«
des Remparts, which takes us to the Hdtel de Ville and the Cathe-
dral. TheH6tel de Yille (PI. B,5), formerly the arohiepiscopal paUce,
was built in 1770-81 for the Prince-Cardinal de Rohan -Gu^m^ii^e
and was restored after a fire in 1862. It is a handsome building
with a conspicuous entrance between two colonnades.
The Kne^e de PeiAtare et de Senlplure (PI. B,5), at the back
of the H6tel de Ville, and facing the Cours d'Albret, oomiista of
two wings, one on each side of a small gardes. It is open to ilae
public daily, except Mon. and Frld., from 12 to d in summer aii«)
12 to 4 in winter ; strangers are admitted on Mon. and Frld» also«
Catalogue (1894), 2 fr.
Ye, BORDEAUX. /. A<m/e«. 49
; Ki^lft* 'Winf is devoted to the old maaien. — The Vcstibulb
s » few^ seulpturea. — Room I. To the rights 383. F. OrebbM-, Bath-
»&iliin« \ 243. Solb^n the Toumger (more probably /. mi» Of«M), For-
96. Mo^voisiM, Battle of Denain (1712); &. School of MurUio, Virgin
ild ^ 42. Lorenzo di Gredi (?), Annaneiation ; 1A2. Titian (or Fmiova-
Triaaapb of aalatea; 79. MurUlo^ St. Anthony of Padua in an ee-
i3. P. Veraneoe^ Holy Family; 850. Dutch School^ Portrait; 33. P. Vor9-
Ue >^omaii taken in adultery; 78. MogOy Portrait of a painter; 144.
^.niirea del Sarto^ Holy Family; 13. Hetro da Gortonay Virgin and
117. Salvator Rota^ Ajax; 153. TPitian (?), The Woman taken in
f y ^ 81. MuriUo(l)y Portrait of Don Luis deHaro; 21. Paolo Yeroneie^
;ion of the Magi: 3. After Correggio^ Oanymede; 119. 8tb. Rieei^ Love
3 of Fidelity; 106. Ribtra, ConTentiele; 149. Va»airiy Holy Family;
retto^ Virgin and Child t 87. School of Palma VeeehiOy Holy Family;
Ifnezzanoy Crucifixion; 145. PtruginOy Virgin and Child, with 8S. Je-
and Augustine ; 48. O. Pouuin , Landscape ; 102. Onido Reni, Mary
ilen ; ISf. TiepolOy Sleazar and Rebecca ; a5. Oiordano^ Venus asleep ;
istano^ Jeaus with Martha and Mary; 67. Oopa. One of the Pareae;
ool of Correggio (or of Titian ?), Venus asleep ; W. n Calabrese (Preti)^
r-player; 17. Bordone^ Portrait of a Venetian nobleman. — Room II.
iportant paintings. — Boom III. To the right : 374. De Momper^ Laad-
i; 331. Tenter* the younger^ Village fesUval; 339. J. tan Oopen, Land-
>; 426. Braeccuaat (of Bordeaux), Cattle; 310. School of Rubens^
atlon of tbe Magi ; 819. Weerti, The exorcism ; 307. School of Rvbens^
bus and Ariadne; 356. Ungetbaehy Flemish topers; 378. Momcherony
Iseape; 364. Jfoes, Portrait; 338. Oovmertiy Landscape, Diana resting;
MaeMy Portrait of a man; 323. Franck the Younger, Christ on C^Wary;
School of Frandty Different ways of attaining immortality; 194. Beni.
9 C?), Interior of a bam : *806. Rubenty Martyrdom of St. Justus ; 823.
x» Steen^ Tavem-seene; 193. A. Gupp^ Landscape; 196. B. Ougp (?), In-
or; 347. Karel du Jardin^ Landscape with animals; Snpderiy 332. Fox-
iting, 331. The aged lion; 188. Ph. de Ohampaigney Joseph*e dream (ia-
sd); 233. Franck the Voungery Christ on CaWary; 172. if.Berehemy Land-
pe ; 3S6. TUhorghy Interior; *305. Rabeniy Martyrdom of 8t. George ; 279.
van der Neery Sea-piece; 835. Tenie>» the Bldery Landscape; 330. Teniers
Younger y The incantation; 273. ff. Mommerty Landscape with figures;
\. School of Rembrandty Adoration of the Shepherds; S^. BobbentfOy Land-
ipe with flgure8j8i9. Sibereehtty Landscape ; 184. * Velvet ' Brueghely Queen
roses ; Riiben»y 306. Villagers dancing, 9(J&. Crucifixion ; 275, 276. ifompery
indscapes ; 227. Oedamy St. Jerome ; 210. Van Dycky The penitent Mi^dalen ;
veral Flemish and Dutch landscapes; 863. Qerinan Bchooly Portrait. ^
ooK IV. 729. Raggiy Bronze statue of Louis XVI., 31 ft. high (1829).
The Left Wing is devoted to modern works. — The Vbstibulb con-
iiQs sculptures: 912. CamielOy Mozart dying; 941. Longepied Neapolitan
iherman. — Psiuting: 383. GigouXy Baptism of GIotIb. — Room I. To
knght, 661. LeifUirey Louis IX. visiting the plague-stricken; 473. Be^f.
'oiMtaat, Moorish prisoners; 418. Bouguereauy Bacchante; 659. Fran^aiSy
Undscape; 887. BeUangiy Cuirassiers of Waterloo; 808. Trogony Oxen
ploughing; 499- Engine Delaeroity Lion-bant (a fragnMni, the picture hav-
'^^g been partly destroyed by a fire); 616. Joup^ Execution of Urbain
Gnndier (p.29); Barpigniety 609. Banks of the Seine, 666. VesuTius; 425.
Urattcueaty Landscape; no nnmber. St. OerwUery A fraternity in the bap-
tistery of St. Mark's at Venice; 363. Bolly The old ouarryman; 46. Per-
randu, Water Tribunal of Valencia (Spain); 370. Antigna. Image -seller;
1S7. Co9n<«t, Tintoretto' painting hts dead daughter; 7S3. Piliy Trench be-
fore Sebastopol ; 409. Fr,-Aug. Bonheury Beturn from the fair; 371. An-
%a, Mirror of the wood; 763.. Rettotfty Presentation in the Temple.
Sealptnres -. 911. CamboSy La Cigale ; 905. BlancTiardy Discovery. — Room II.
To the left : 578. Qirdmcy Bacchus and drunken Cupid t no number, Mras-
[(otioi, Animals: /Iota BonheuTy 411. Fox, 410. Ooat; 417. Bouguereai^y AH
iWs'Day; W..E.Bulandy The heirs; 556. A. Fouldy Rosa Bonheur in
Her studio, in the middle: 955. Levwyney Bust of Montesquieu; 914.
jCiajm, Bust of Carayon-Latour ; 908. /«. Bonheury Cow defending bar calf,
Baedeker. Southern France. 4th Bdit. ^
50 /. Boute 6. BORDEAUX. Cathedral.
in bronze. — Boom III. To the riglit, no number, FlcM^ Cabaret of
Rauponneau at Paris; 100. A. AehtnbMeh^ 8ea-pieee; m. E. IMmeroix, Lion;
389. Bmudfy, Toilette of Venus ;^U. Jsabep, Burning of the steamer Austria
(1808); 488. ^ubiifnv. The banks of the Oise; 068. LuminaUt, Gallie seouts;
699. Gros^ Embarlcation of the Duchess of AngoulSme (1810). Opposite, 499.
Delacroix^ Boissy d'Anglas; 474. Coroi^ Landscape; 000. QMdiny Captain
Desse saving the crew of a Dutch vessel (1823); d07. Schenek^ Beveille
(sheep); 374. Auguin^ Summer on the Grande (3dte; 497. Delacroix^ Greece
expiring amid the ruins of Missolonghi ; 708. P. Quinsac^ Fountain of youth.
— Boon IV. 893. H. Allouard, Teasing (marble).
The * Cathedral (^S^ Andre; PL B, 0.5) is one of the finest
Gothic churches in the S. of France. It consists of a large nave, de-
stitute of aisles, dating from the ll-12th cent., with Romanesque
arches; a transept; and a choir with double aisles of the 14th century.
The principal portal, on the N. side, is flanked with two towers sur-
mounted by stone spires. The sculptures in the tympanum represent
the Last Supper and the Ascension. On the pillar is a statue of
Bertrand de Goth, Archbishop of Bordeaux, afterwards Pope Cle-
ment V. (d. 1314), who contributed largely to the building. The
S. portal is of the same character, but.its towers have no spires.
The Cboib is the most admired part of the Interior. Among the chief
works of art are the monument of Cardinal de Cheverus (d. lo96), with
his statue, by Maggesi (near the pulpit) ; opposite, the monument of Mgr.
Donnet (d. 1883), with his statue and figures of Faith and Charity, by
Delapkmehe ; a Resurrection , by Altstandro Vtrontse (opposite themilpit) ;
a Crucifixion, by Jordaens; a Raising of Lazarus, by Jad4n (1877); two
large bas-reliefs of the Renaissance, below the organ, originally part of
a rood-loft and representing the Descent into Hell and the Resurrection ; a
Bearing of the Cross, attributed to Ag. Carracei (at the side) ; the monument
of Monsgr. d^Aviau in the second choir-chapel to the right; a statue of St.
Anne, of the 16th cent., some fine wood-carvings, and the monuments of
Ant. de Koaillas (1063) and Mgr. de la Boitillerie (d. 1883), in other chapels.
— ' Richard II. of England was christened in this cathedral.
About 30 yds. to the right of the choir of this church , opposite
the end of the Cours Victor Hugo (p. 51), is the Clooh£B Petbeb-
LAND, built in 1440 by Archbishop Pierre Berland. It was sold
at the Revolution and partly pulled down, but was bought back in
1850 and restored. The spire has been left in a truncated condition.
with a gilded statue of the Virgin at the top (fine view; fee 25 c).
This tower contains a bell weighing about 11 tons.
To the 6.W. of the cathedral, at No. 30, Rue d'Albret. is the
Muit'e Bonie (open to strangers daily from 12 to 4 or 5; adm. 1 fr.),
comprizing collections of furniture, wood -carvings, porcelain,
weapons, etc., and reproductions of Moorish rooms. — Farther to
the S. rises the Palais de Justice (PI. B, 5,6), a vast building erected
in 1839-46, with a heavy facade, upwards of 150 yds. long. In the
centre is a portico of the Doric order, and the projecting wings
are crowned with seated figures of Malesherbes, d^Aguesseau, Mon-
tesquieu, and THdpital.
Behind the Palais de Justice is the PriMfi, which occupies the
site of the Ch&teau du Far or Fort du Ha, built at the same time as
the Chiteau Tiompette (p. 46).
St Michel. BORDBAUX. /. MotUe 6. 61
To the S. of the Palais de Justice is the extensive Hospital of
8t, Andrew (650 beds; P1.B,,6), rebuilt in 1825-29, with a hand-
some entrance. A little farther on, to the left, is the church of Ste.
Eulalie (PL B, C, 6), of very ancient foundation , but rebuilt in the
14- 15th centuries.
The Rue de Gursol (PI. B, G, 6) leads to the Cours Victor Hugo,
which extends from the cathedral to the Pont de Bordeaux. At the
bend which it makes near the Rue de Gursol is the University
(PL 0, 5, 6), built in 1881 - 86 , with faculties of theology, science,
and literature. The vestibule contains a Monument to Montaigne
(d. 1592), who is interred in the basement. This interesting Renais-
sance work originally stood in the chapel of a convent on this site.
Farther on , to the left , is the Grand Marche\ a recent erec-
tion of iron and glass, and almost opposite is the Lycee NatumtU,
or boys' school. In a short street to the right stands the Porte de
I' Hotel de ViUe, a fine relic of the old Hotel de Vilie, dating in its
lower part from the 13th cent., while the upper half, with Its three
turrets , was rebuilt in the 16th century. Above the arch , through
which the street runs , is a curious Renaissance clock. Higher
up is another arch with a bell, and on the top of. this is a lantern
surmounted by a lion. — Adjoining this gate is the modern entrance
of the church of St. Eloi, which itself dates from the 15th century.
The church of St. Miehel (PL D, 6), near the Quai des Salinieres,
a little above the Pont de Bordeaux^ is a fine Gothic edifice, found-
ed in the 8th or 9th cent., but rebuilt in 1149 and in the 14-15th
centuries. Its three portals are adorned with interesting sculptures,
representing the Nativity, the Adoration of the Shepherds, the Sa-
crifice of Isaac, Abraham (to the N.), and the appearance of St. Michel
to the Bishop of Sipontum. The choir is lower than the nave, and
the wall above the arch by which it is entered is pierced by a
window. In the first choir-chapel to the right is a Renaissance altar-
piece, opposite which is a Pieta of the 15th century. The iron rail-
ings of the chapels in the aisles should be noticed.
The Bbll Towsb of St. Michel, standing apart like that of the
cathedral , 32 yds. from the W. front of the church , was built in
1472-92. The spire, destroyed by a hurricane in 1768, was rebuilt
in the 19th cent., and the structure has also been strengthened by
the erection of six buttresses, crowned with statues, round the
base. The total height of the tower is 354 ft. (ascent 25 c).
Tbe goil of tbe old cemetery which oaee oocupied this spot bad (ht;
singular property of preserving (he dead bodies commiUed to it; and a
guide is at hand to eonduei strangers into a Vault where about forty
natural mummies of this kind may be seen (adm. 50 e.). The melancholy
aspect of thi» exhibition is made almost fantastic by the attitude of the
mummies, placed upright against the walls. The guide recounts a more
or leaa true history of several.
Ste. Croix (PL 0,6,7), in the midst of the populous artizan
quarter which lies to the S. of St. Michel, i^ another highly in-
4»
52 J. Route 6. BORDEAUX.
teresting church. It was originally founded in the 7th cent., or ©ven
earlier, hut it was rebuilt in the 10th cent, in the Romanesque style
and has heen restored several times since, for the last time in the
19th century. Its most striking part is the "'Facade, which recalls
those of Notre-Dame at Poitiers and of the cathedral at AngoulSme.
No satisfactory explanation of the sculptures of this facade has been
given , the only recognizable details being the signs of the zodiac
and a knight slaying a dragon at the feet of the Virgin. The in-
terior, part of which is in the Gothic style, contains a noteworthy
tomb of the 15th cent, and some modem stained glass.
Adjoining this church is the Ecole des Becmx-ArUy in an old
Benedictine abbey. The fine Renaissance gateway has been rebuilt
on the opposite side of the street , which leads hence to the Oare
St. Jean or du Midi, rebuilt and much enlarged in 1890-97.
The Boulevards of Bordeaux are noteworthy for their extent,
their fine trees , and their handsome buildings. Beyond the Boul.
de Caud^ran (PI. A, 2, 3; tramways) is the Pare Bordelais, a prom-
enade laid out in 1880-87 (band 5.30-7 on Sun. and Frid. in sum-
mer). Oaf^s- restaurants in the vicinity.
From Bordeaux to Tour$ (Pari*) see R. 1 ; Xo La BofiheUe aad Nantety see
B. 3; to Piriguetuc and Limoge»^ see R. 5; to Royan^ see R. 7; to ArecKhon^ see
R. 8 ; to Bayanne and Biarriit^ see R. 9 ; to Toulome and Geitey see RR. 10, 14 ;
to Cahors yl& Tonneins (change carriages) see p. 68, via Bergerac^ see p. 53 ;
to Tarbes (Pyrenees), see R. 12^ to Lyonty see R. 36.
Fbom Bobdbaux to Etmbt, 641/2 M., railway in 31/4-88/4 brs. (fares
11 fr. 86, 7 fr. 85, 5 fr. 15 c). The trains start from the Gare de la Bastide
(comp. I). 43). — The intermediate stations are of no interest to the touriBt.
Near (l8 M.) La Saiiv« (H6M Fran^ait) are the ruins of an abbey founded in
the 10th cent., and rebuilt in the iSth cent., with a beautiful church. At
(36 M.) Sauveterre ' de - Ouvenne are mediaeval fortifications and a aquare
with Oothic arcades. — 52 M . Duras^ a town with a chateau and fortifi-
cations of the 15th century. — 61 |C. La Sauvttat (p. 68). — At (64i/s M.)
Eytntt we join the line from Marmande to Bergerac (p. 68).
From Bobdbaux to Cadillac, 2O1/2 M^ steam -tramway in 2 hrs.
(fares 2 fr., 1 fr. 20 c). — OadiUac (H6t. de France)^ a small town on the
right bank of the Q^aronne, is still surrounded by walls of the 14th eent.,
with fine gates. The CMteau d'^Spernon (14-17th .eentO is now a prison
for women. Cadillac is reached also via C^rons (p. 67) or by steamboat.
Fbom Bobdbaux to Ca^obs via Tovkbiks, see R. 10. •>- Vii Liboubmb
AKD Lb BuiasoK, I461/3 M., railway in 71/4-11 hrs. (fares 26 fr. 55. 17 fr. 95,
11 fr. 76 c). This line ascends the Dordogne Valley. — To (2ll/a M.) Liboume^
see p. 13. — 27 M. 8t. Xmilion (H6t. Oari-Dussaut)^ a curious little town famous
for Its wines. It occupies a picturesque site on a hill, and still retains a
great part of its medieeval rainparts, with Urge ditches d^g out of the
rock. In the hill itself are immense quarries still worked for building stone.
Here, too, is a Monolithic Churchy scooped out in the rock in the Middle
Ages , and measuring 104 ft. in • length, 46 ft. in breadth, and 621/9 ft- in
height. It is at the side of the hermitage of St. Emilion, or rather St.
Emilien, who lived here in the 8th cent., and on a terrace above stands a
fine tower of the 12th and 15th centuries. The neighbouring collegiate
church and cloister (12th and 13th cent.) are also remarkable. Of the
Castle to the W. of the town, there remains little more than a square keep.
331/2 M. Cattillon (Boule d'Or), memorable for the defeat which defi-
nitely cost the English Ouienne, in 1453. John Talbot, Earl of Sh^rewsbury,
was among the slain.
401/9 M. 8t«. Foy-la-Orando (Mesiageriei)^ a town of 3277 inhabifftnts.
MABGAUX. /. Soute 7. 53
60 M. B«rf«r»o (Grand JER»«I, Bne 4a Mareb^), a town of 15,996 ia-
hab. on the Dordogne, was one of the Calvinist stronghold* of the 16th
eentury. Noir«-DafM is a fine modem ehareh in the style of the 18th eeii-
tury. A large business is done here in wines and tmffles. Line to Mar.-
mande^ see p. 68; to AngouUme via Mussidan and Bib<$rae, see p. 19.
64 M. Creyae-Mouleydier ^ with paper-mills and the rains of a eastle.
After a tunnel we see a canal rendered necessary by the rapids of the
Dordogne. Prom (Tll/j M.) Coutt a diligence plies to (7M.) Beammant^ with
ramparts and a fortiHed ehareh dating from the English occnpation. —
73 M. Lalinde^ a smsU and ancient town (Diolindum). Then a tunnel, two
"bridges oyer the Dordogne, and a second tunnel. 80 M. AlUt. We cross
the Dordocne for the last time. 83 M. Le Buiuon (p. 83). Thence to
(HSU.) Montempr<m'libo$ and (146 Va H.) Cohort, see pp.83, 68.
7. From Bordeaux to Boyan.
a. Bj the Kidoe Bailway.
Railway to (63 M.) Le Verdon and Stbambr thence, in connection
with the trains, to R&yan, at the mouth of the Oironde. The whole jour-
ney takes 4i/s4i/3 hrs. Tickets to Royan allow the holders to break the
journey at Soalac and Le Verdon. Fares 11 fr. 40, 8 fr. 60, 6 fr. 90 c. ; re-
turn-tickets, available for 8 days, 13 fr. 65, 10 fr. 30, 7 fr. 45 c. ; cheap ex-
cursion-trains run in summer (return-fares 6 fr. 85, 5 fr. 96 c, 5 fr.). The
trains start from the Gare du M^doe (p. 49). The sea is sometimes rough
at the mouth of the Oironde.
The whole journey may be made by railway (92 M., in 3-5 hrs. ; fares
13 fr. 75, 10 fr. 30, 6 fr. 85 c), via the State line (Gare du Midi) and branch
at Pons (p. 19).
Bordeaux, see p. 42. — From (^^/j M.) Bruges a branch rans to
(30 M.) Lacanau (p. 58). — At (5M.) Blanquefort there is an old castle.
Here begins the X4doo, a district of the Bordelais occupying the
tongae of land between the Oironde and the sea (Medoc = in medio
aquae*) and long celebrated for its wines. The vineyards extend along
the left bank of the river in a band 5-12 M. in width reaching as far as
(48 M.) St. Vivien (see p. 54). There is a great variety in the growths.
The Grand* Grus or first-class growths, five in number, are distinguished
as ^erus classes* (classified growths), and are confined to ITpper Medoc,
which extends from Ludon to a little beyond St. Estephe. Most of the
Medoc wines are red. The soil of the vineyards consists mainly of si-
liceous deposits, quartx, etc., brought down from the Pyrenees by the
Garonne. These deposits are particularly suitable to the vine because they
are very loose and retentive of the heat. Among the other growths are
the faighly-esteemed Crtu B&urgeoi*^ the Vint de palut^ or wines grown
on cultivated marshes, ete. The vintage generally begins after the middle
of September and lasts till nearly the end of October.
7 M. Parempuyre, with a fine modern Chdteau, — 9V2M. Ludon
produces wines of the 3rd 'era class^' (Ch&teau de la Lagune). —
11 M. Macau, with a small harbour on the Garonne, which the line
touches here. The Bee d'Amhes (p. 55) lies to the S. E., but is hidden
by an island. To the right lies Cantenac, well known for its wines,
Including Brarie-Cantenac, a wine of the 2nd *cra class^'.
15V2 M. Margaux produces wines of the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd
'grands crus'. The finest, known as Chateau Margaux, is the best
M^doc wine but one, being surpassed by Chateau Lafitte alone (see
p. 54). — 17Vt M. Soussam ; 20 M. Moulis.
54 I. Route 7. SOULAC-LES-- BAINS. From Bordeaux
25V2 M. 8L Laurent- St- Julien, St, Laurent, IV2M. tothe
left, produees wines of the 4th and 5th ^cru9 classes'. The wines 0
St. Julien, 2V2 M* to the right, are mostly of the second class,
and are widely known under the names of St. Julien, Chateau L^o-
ville, Larose, etc. — Farther on, we pass on the right the domain
of Chdtean Latour^ the wine of which ranks next to Chateau La-
fltte and Chateau Margaux. The line again approaches the river.
29 M. Panillao (Orand-Hotel; Hdt. de la Marine), an old town
of 5180 inhah. , lies on the left bank of the Gironde and possesses
a harbour (at Trompeloup) used by vessels which cannot get up to
Bordeaux. Its wine-district, reckoned the second of the M6doc in
general importance, includes the domain of Chateau Lafitte, which
produces the finest wine of all. This domain (170 acres) was pur-
chased in 1868 for about 180,000^. by the Rothschilds. The wine
is worth 80-200i. per *tonneau' of 198 gallons. Over 80,000 bottles
are stored in the vaults. The domain of Mouton-Rothsckild (170 acres)
produces the best wine of the second class.
32 M. St. Estephey with the largest vineyard in the country. Its
chief growth, Cos-Destournel, ranks among the second class wines.
— 35 M. Vertheuil has an interesting Romanesque church. — 38V2M.
St. Oermain-d' Esteuil.
42 m. Lesparre (Hot, de la Paix). a town with 4038inhab., has
a tower of the 14th cent, a relic of an old castle, and a fine modern
church. It is the junction of a line to Facture and Ar^s (Arcachon;
see p. 58). — 45 M. Ouillan; 47 M. Queyrac; 50 M. Vensac ; 51 Va M.
St. Vivieny where the vines give way to marshes. This large village
has a church belonging partly to the 14th cent., with a fine modern
spire. — 54 M. Talais.
58 M. Soulao-les-BaiiiB (Hotel Marmandais; de V Ocean; de la
Paix), a sea-bathing place much frequented by the inhabitants of
Bordeaux, with a fine beach and surrounded by pine-woods. At the
entrance of the (V2 M.) village is the monument of Laporte, a life-
boat-man who was drowned in 1880. To the right is the curious
Romanesque church of Notre Dame de Fin des Terres, buried in
the 13th cent, by the encroaching sand-dunes, which have oucemore
uncovered it in their advance inland. From the monument the
Avenue de la Plage leads to the beach.
About 31/2 K- to the S. (omn. 35 e.) lies AmSUe-let- Bains (hotel), anotber
little Ilea -bathing plaee. *- At Let EpU^ Xy^lH. to the K. of Soulae, ex-
teosive dykes C'^pis") have been constructed to resist the encroaehments
of the waves. The sea, which is extremely violent in this vicinity , has
swallowed up the harbour of Soulac and various other localities, includ-
ing the Roman town of NovUnnmgus. From the first ^^pi^ a tramway
runs to the Pointe de Orave^ 51/2 ^' from Soulac (fare 1 fr., retum-tieket
iVa fr).
63 M. Le Yerdon {Hotel de la Marine) ^ the terminus of the
railway, has a small harbour of refuge.
From the station we proceed by tramway (no extra charge) through
a flue pine-forest to (V4 hr.) the steamboat. To the right of the pier
to Boyan. BI1AT& /. BimU 7. ii6
ia a fort To the left, in tbe dirMtion. of the Pointe de OraTe,
appears Royen , with ito conspieuoua casino. Directly opposite us
is St. Gheorges-de-DidoRiie (p. 5&).
The voyage usually takes less than V4 hour. In the distance to
the left, is the lAghthoust of OofdowM (p. &7). Good view of Royan
as we approach. ~ Royauy see p. 56.
h. By the Oironde.
Stcambbs ply from Bordeaux (maar tlie <)iiln6onee> \ PI. D, 4) to Boyan
in about 4 hr*., oaoe a day ia July, atartiag at 8 a. m., and twice a day
in Aug. and Sept., starting at 8 a. m. «kd 2 p. m. (returning from* Boyan
at 8 or at 7 and 2). The only intermediate stoppage is at Pauillae, which ia
serTed also by special steamers in summer (June-Sept.), starting at 7 a. m.
and 8.80 p. m. Fares 6 fr., 4 fr., with 90 e. harbour-aues at Boyan ; return-
tickets, available for 8 days, 9 fr., 6 fr., with 60 e. harbour-dues; fare by
Sun. exeunion - steamer in summer 3 fr., 2 fr., return-ticket (valid till
Ifon.} 6, 4fr. Fares to Pauillaa, 3 ft*., IV4 fr* Bestaurant on board.
The scenery is dall and monotonous, but the great width of the Oi-
ronde, amounting at places to 71/3 M. , makes it impressive, though
the water is generally, turbid. Numerous islands are passed. The pas-
sage is sometimes considerably protracted when the tide is rising or the
sea at the mouth of the river rough. It is not possible to make the ex-
cursion both ways by steamer in one day (except by excursion-steamer in
sammer), but those who are much pressed for time may go by water and
return by railway, or vice ver8&. — The Jfoscor^, a tidal wave similar
to the Barre on the Seine and the Bore on the Severn and somethnes
8-10 ft. high, aseeads the river to above Bordeaux in August and Sep-
tember. It appears on a rising tide and is, partly at least, the result of
the two opposing currents in the bed of the river.
The steamer at first threads its way through the harbour of
Bordeaux, which is fringed by warehouses, manufactories, and ship-
building yards. To the left are the docks and a floating basin. To
the right rise the heights of Lormont (p. 14), with its picturesquely
situated chateau; 1. Parempuyre (p. 53); r. Montf errand; 1. Macau
(p. 53) ; r. Amhts and Le Bee d' Amft««, the latter a low and narrow
tongue of land stretching for some distance between the Garonne
aud the Dozdogne.
We next pass somiQ long islanda on the left, while to the right
are several quarries.
r. 25 M. Blaye (HoM da Medoe), a town of 4800 inhab., which
existed under the Romans and to this day retains a certain impor-
tance as a stronghold. It is prettily situated, partly on a hill.
Its CUadel, on a rock beside the river, is supplemented hy the Fort
du Pdt/, on an islet, and the Fort Hedoe, on the left (opposite)
bank. A branch -railway runs hence to (15 ^/t M.) ^t. MaH&m
(p. 20) ; another to (14 M.) St, Ciers-Lalande (p. 20).
The Bteainer now heads for the left bank , on which are the
Chdteau de BepckeveUe, the slender spire of 8L Juiien, and several
vineyards (p. 54). The right bank is now , in its turn , hidden
by islMkde. To the left lies (37 M.) PmuUm (p. 54), and farther on
are Trompeloup (p. 54), and 8t^ Mstiphe (p. 54), the latter on a knoU.
56 J. Route 7. ROYAN.
Still farther on, to the left, rise the towers of 8t. Christ oly and of
Valeyrac. Near this point the Oironde is at its widest. On the right
bank, farther on, lies St, Oeorges-de^Didorwie (p. 57), a small river-
port and bathing -place surrounded by woods, 2V2 M. short of
Royan. On the left, off the mouth of the Gironde, stretches the
Pointe de Grave (p. 54). Out in the open sea rises the lAghthouse
of Cordouan (p. 57). On the right bank stands —
Boyan. — Hotels. HStbl d^ Bordeaux, de Paris, D^OaLiAKs, all
in the Boulevard Thiers, near the harbour; La Vioie (family hotel),
Facade deFoneiUon, *RicHBLiBU, Boulevard Botton, both near the Grande
Ck)nche, B. 8-9, B. i, d^j. 31/3, D. 4 fr. ; Geoix Blaischb, Bue de Boebefort
and Boal. Botton; Noutbl HdxEL, Sue Gambetta and Boul. Lessore; do
GoMMBRCB, Boul. Lossore, B.3, D. 31/q, pens. 10 fr.; *Du Csvtrb, Bue Gam-
betta 33, B. 31/tf, d6j. 21/a, D. a, pens. 8I/2 fr.; H6t.-Rb8TAURAxt dbs Voya-
obvrs s Bue de la Plage. — On the Grande Gonehe, near the park : *Grakd
HdTBL du Paro, B. from 3, B. 1, dej. SVa^ !>• ^/Q^ pens. 10-16, omn. 1/2 &• ;
Family Hotix, R. from 21/9, B. 1, d^j. 3, D. Sl/a fr. — At Poniaillae^ on
the beach: *HdT. db l*£uropb; db Povtaillac. R. 4-6, B, 1, d^j. 31/3,
D. 4, pens. 121/2-15 fr. ; d^Akglbteirrb, pens. 10-13 fr.
Oaf^a^Bestaorants. At the Gaainos^ dij. 5, D. 6 fr.-, Caf4 des Bamt^ de
France^ Boul. Thiers, etc.
Sea Batha, with bathing-box and dress, Vs'l fr. -r- Casinoa. Casino de
Fondllon : adm. by day 1-2, in the evening 2-4 fr. ; subscription, per week 21,
per fortnight 35, per momth 55, per season 100 fr. (families at a reduction).
Ccuino Municipal: adm. 1 fr. ; subscription per week 5, per month 15 fr.
Oaba, per drive 2 fr., per hr. 3 fr., at night 3 or 4 fr. — Steam IVamway
(Deeauville) to Pontaillae (35 c), to the Pare (25 c.) and St. Oeorget-de^Di-
donme (p. 57 \ 40 c). — Steamboat to le Verdon (p. 54), starting after the
arrival of the railway train (p. 19), 2 fr., return-ticket 3 fr. To Bordeaux,
see p. 55.
Post and Telegraph Offtce, Boulevard Botton 54.
Royan, a modern town with 8287 inhab., is one of the chief
sea-bathing resorts in France , being frequented by about 200,000
visitors annually. It is well built, partly on the rocks which
overlook the mouth of the Gironde, opposite the Pointe de Grave,
and it offers to visitors all the usual amenities of a fashionable
watering-place. Its four Conches, or beaches, are covered with fine
sand and afford admirable facilities for bathing. At Royan itself
the sea is generally calm , even when the waves are breaking furi-
ously at Pontaillae, 1^/4 M. to the W. (hotels, see above). Between
the two lie the Conche de FonHUon, opposite the *€tmno of fhat
name, and the small Conchea de Chay and dtt Figeonnier, beyond
a small fort. The Grande Conehe lies to the left of the harbour.
A new bathing -establishment has been built here, near which is
the handsome Casino MunUipal (opened in 1896). The Statue of
Eugene Pdle^a^t (1813-1884), by Aub^, commemorates the politician
of that name, a benefactor of Boyan. Near the quay where we disem-
bark is a fine Park^ which we may enter also from the Rue du Casino,
near the harbour, between the Boulevard Thiers and the Rue Gam-
betta. The last-named street leads to the church of Notre-Datne, a
handsome modern Gothic structure. — The Railway Station (line
to Pons, see p. 19) is about 3/4 M. distant in the sftme di^ption.
THB LANBBS. /. Route 8. 57
Abovt 31/s M. from Boyan by road (tramway , «ee p. 56) and nearly
3 M. by tbe beaeb ia St. GearvM-dfl-Sidoana (H^tel de VOeia%; du Nord)^
another sea-bathing resort.
The chief exenrsion from Royan is to the (7 1/3 M.) LifhthouM of
Cordoaan, to which steamers ply daring the season, usually on Sun. and
Thursday. Visitors land in small boats and on the backs of sailors. The
roek on which the lighthouse stands is accessible fWnn the shore at low
tide, and was formerly, it is said, attached to the Pointe de GraTe (see
p. 54), which is now more than 31C. from it. The tower was perhaps
originally constructed by the Saracens or by Louis the Pious, but it was
rebuilt by Edward, Prince of Wales (the Black Prince), in ISTTO, and again
in 1684-1610 from the plans of Louis de Foix, one of the architects of
the Escurial. The third story, however, dates from the beginning of the
19th century. The lighthouse, with its basement, rises to a height of
230 ft., and its light is visible for 17 miles. Such is the violence of the
sea at this spot, that the waves, though broken by reefs, still rise more
than 40 ft. against the tower. In the second story of the tower is a chapel
of Notre-Dame-de-C!ordouan.
Another excursion may be made to the Grande C6ie (tramway), about
6 M. to the K.W., where the chief attraction is the spectacle of the stormy
sea dashing on the rocky coast. Another tramway goes on thence to La
Ccubre^ with another lighthouse.
From Royan to Soulac (p. 64), steamboat in summer once or twice daily \
fares 3 fr. 70, 2 fr. 45, 9 fr. 39 e.-, return-ticket 4 fr. 50, 4 fr. 15, 3 fr. 95 c.
Railway from Royan to Pons and to La Trevnhlade^ etc., see p. 19.
8. From Bordeaux to Arcachon.
35 M. Railway in I1/4-2 hrs. (fares 4 fr. 26, 3 fr. 35, 2 fr. 95 c. ^ return-
ticket 6 fr., 4 fr. 50, 3 fr. OO c). Excursion- trains at reduced fares on Sun.
and holidays in sununer (return 3 fr. 50, 2 fr. 50, 1 fr. 90 c). The trains
start from the Oare du Midi or de St. Jean.
Bordeaux, see p. 42. This line diverges to the right from the
Toulouse railway (R. 10), and passes, partly in cuttings , through a
wine- growing district , tbe finest product of which is the Haut-
Brion, a wine of the premier era (p. 53). 3% M. Pessae.
The disappearance of the vineyards and the appearance in their place
of plantations of pines now indicate that we have entered the singular
district known as the Landes (waste lands). The name is given to a vast
triangular plateau, 150-200 ft. above the sea, and bounded by the Atlantic
and the valleys of the Garonne and the Adour. On the side next the
sea it is upwards of 120 M. in length, its maximum width is about
60 M., and it covers an area of 2300 sq. H. The soil is composed of a
layer, about I1/2 ft. deep, of sand and alios^ i. e. vegetable detritus solid-
ified by a ferruginous cement, which renders it unfit for cultivation.
Even after the great improvements of modem times the district is still
dried up in summer and marshy in winter, the alios rendering the soil
impervious to moisture, while the sand-dunes (2(X>-300 ft.) along the coast
hinder the escape of the surface waters. These dunes moreover used to
invade the country, advancing about 20 yds. every year, but the attack has
been arrested by the planting of sea-pines (P^us maritima)^ begun in 1786.
The eireulation of the waters, too, has been regulated, and the forests, al-
ready of great extent, are daily gaining on the bare ground. There still
remain, however, vast stretches of country almost entirely waste, over-
grown with heath, furze, reeds, bracken, and broom, and presenting a
uni<)ue hvA monotonous appearance. It will be noticed that the trunks of
the pines are scored with gashes, below which small tin vessels are
plaeed, T|iepur|>ose ofth^^ js to collect t|ie reaiut vfixi^h form? a very
58 J. Rtmte 8, LA TESTB.
important article of eommeree here. The sea-pine is not, howerer, the
only tree which thrives in the Lftndes : the aeaeia, the aiianthus^ the oak,
and the cork-tree are successfully grown, the last chiefly near Bayonne.
In order to traverse the sands and the marshes^, the inhabitants of the
Landes have had to adopt the custom of walking on stilts, 4-6 ft. high,
supporting themselves by a pole whieh serves as a walking-stick. It was
formerly no uncommon sight to see the natives, often clad in sheepskins,
traversing the Landes with the speed of a horse at full gallop, or
supported on the end of their long poles, tranquilly watching their
flocks and knitting the footless stockings peetiliar to the district. Vow-
a-days, however, the tourist, or at least the rail way- traveller, will see
nothing of this kind, for there are fewer marshes and fewer pasturages
than formerly, and many roads have been made throughout the Landes.
6V4M. Oazinet; 11 M. Pierroton; 14 M. Croix-d*Hin9; 17 M.
Marcheprime ; 2OV2 M. Canauley. — 23 M. Facture (hotels).
From Factuhb (Aboachok) to Lbsparre (Rotak), 56I/9 M., railway in
48/4-51/4 hrs. (fares 9 fr. 40, 7 fr. 5, 5 fr. 15 c). This line, whieh traverses
the Landes of the Gironde, skirts at first the N.E. side of the Basin of
Arcaehon (p. 59). — 8 M. Taussat^ a small sea-bathing place; ISM. Are*
(Hot. Sourgeac), a country-town and bathing-resort. The line then turns
to the N., skirting the W. side of the Sand Duties^ which here attain a
height of more than 200 ft. and have several times necessitated the renaoval
of the neighbouring hamlets. — 38 M. Lacanan (Hdtel Camvos)^ to the £.
of the pool of the same name , which is 5 M. long and 2 M. broad. It
is the junction of a line to Bruges and Bordeaux (see p. 53). — Beyond
(35 M.) Careans^ we pass the Etang dt Careans or d^Hourtin^ 11 M. long
and 21/2-31/jM. wide. — 43 M. Hourfin. — 561/s M. LeMparre^ see p. 54.
The railway just described is continued to the S.E. of Facture by a
line running through the valley of the Lejfre (see below), vi& Hortetu
(junction of a line to Beautiran, p. 67) and (31 M.) St. Symphorien (p. 67),
to (45 M.) Luxey.
We now cross the Leyre. a navigable river flowing into the Basin
of Arcaehon, and at (25 M.) Lamothe diverge to the right from the
Bayonne line (p. 60). — 26Va M. Le Teich; 29 M. Oujan-Meatras
(Hdt Lamhert), a sea-bathiEg place; 31 M. La Htmie.
33 M. La Tert#*de-Biioh (Hotels)^ a town of 6663 inhab., repre-
sents the ancient capital of the Boii, which the dunes have driven
back to its present site. In the Middle Ages it was the residence of
the famous Seigneurs of Buch, whose castle has disappeared.
La Teste is the junction of a branch-railway to (8 M.) Casaux, a vil-
lage on the lake of the same name , which has an area of i7,(X)0 aeres
and is 100 feet in depth. It formerly communicated with the sea , but is
now 80 ft. above the sea-level. On the £. and S. bank respectively are
Samguinet and Navarotu^ with their picturesque woods. Farther on is
the similar Lctkt of Biscarosse.
35 M. Areaohon. — Hotela. in the town : Grakd-Hotbl, to the V/,
of the Place Thiers, R. 3-10, B. II/2, d^j. 4, D. 5, pens. 11-15. onuu 1 fr.;
RicHBLiau, d^j. 31/s, D. 4fr., well spoken of; Victoria, B. 4-5, B. ii/9,
d<j. 31/9, D. 4, omn. Vs ^- ; »" Fkavcb, d<^j. 3Vs, D. 4 fr., these three ia the
Place Thiers; Jampy, R. from 4, B. 1, d^j. 3, D. dl/g fr., omn. 90 e.; Lb-
oALLAis, d^j. Sl/s) I>. 4 fr. ; Etoilb i>*Ob, R. from S, d^j. 3, D. SVs fr^ these
three in the Boulevard de la Plage ; Pans. Chalst Rohsbbau, saaae Boule-
vard 311; Hot.-Rbstaubakt dbs Votagbvrs, Avenue Gambetta, d^. 9V3->
D. 3 fr.; DB LA Oarb, d6j. 31/91 D. 3 ft. - In the forest (Mile d'hivcr'):
OBAND-HdTBL DBS PiHB BT GoKTiiiBBTAL , AllAc Corrigau, neartfae Casino,
a d^pendance of the Grand-H6tel (same charges); Gbavd-Hovbu i»« la
Fobbt bt d'Anclbtbbrb, R. 8-10, B. U/a^ d^j. 4, D. 5, omo. 1 fr.
Foraiahed Htvaea. Chalets from lUO to 9Q0Ofr. per month; ViUsia in
iiRCAGHON. /. Rauis S. 58
the forest. — HovsB AoBMTt : <7arcia«, Pl«ee Thiart ; Brannem, Dueot^ Boul.
de la Plage 354 and 390.
Cafte. IWtrt^ Plaee Thiers; Grand Cafi Jfoliire^ Central, BouleTard de
la Plage ; du C0mm«ree^ Avenue Gambetta.
Sea Bathinf . Eslablishments at the hotels on the beach and in the
Place Thiers, etc. Bathing-box V4-I fr.^ with bathing-dress.
Casino. Adm. 50 e. (gratis in the morning), children half-price. Adm.
to theatre: 1^ 3. 9, 4 fr. Subscription, including the theatre: for gentle-
men , per week i5 , fortnight 35, month 45, season 80 fr. — CM dtt Etrau-
ger» and YacMing C2«6, at the Grand Hdtel.
Tramwayi. 1. Prom the Place Thiers to the Aigvilhn on the E. and to
the Orille Pireire on the W. (10 c). 3. From Noire-Dame to the Market
or to the Station (10 c). 3. From the Place Thiers and the Post Office to
MoulUau (p. 60; hourly; 40 c.)-
Canriaf ee. Per drive U/s fr- ; ^itfa two horses 3 fr. ; per hour 31/q ur
3 fr. ; 50 c. extra on Sunday and at night. CJarriase without driver, 3 or I fr.
per hour. Saddle'horsey 2 fr. per hour. — Boala 3-3 fr. per hour. — Steamer
to Cape Ferret and the lighthouse (p. 60), there and back 3 fr.
Peat ft Telegraph Ottee, Avenue Gambetta, near the Place Thiers.
Mm«e- Aquarium, Boul. de la Plage 161, adm. 13-6, 1/9 fr.
Golf Club (9 holes) at La Hwne, 6 M. by railway from the town.
JEngUA Chwoh (St. Thoouu't)^ in the forest, to the S.W. of the Casino;
Rev. S. Radetifi B. A.^ Chaplain. — lagUah Phyaieiaa : Dr. Charles S. VaU,
Villa Peyronnet. — British yiee-Oensnl : Mr. F. Audap.
Ar^ac^on is a charming sea-bathing and winter resort, annually
frequented by 100,000 yisitors. The resident population is 8221.
On Sundays and holidays it is Inundated with excursionists from
Bordeaux. It consists of two parts, the town proper, situated on
the lageon of the same name (see below), and the Viile d'Hiver,
or winter -town, in the forest planted on the dunes to the S. The
former extends from the Pointe de rAiguillou on the £. to (2Vt M.)
the Pare P^ieire on the W., and its pretty houses of every style are
scattered amid gardens and parks.
From the station the Avenue du Ch&teau leads straight to the
Chdteau Deganne, an elegant modern mansion in the Renaissance
style, BOW occupied by a Dominican sisterhood. — Turning to the
left at the station, we follow the Boulevard d'Haussez, theu the
Boulevard Gambetta to the right, and reach the Place Thiers, almost
the only spot in the town where there is free access to the beach.
The Bassin d'Arcachon is a capacious gulf or lagoon , nearly
50 M. in circumference and 60 sq. M. in area , of which, however,
tv^oHMrds are dry at low-water. Its form is triangular. The shore
is a Tery safe one for hathing, of gentle slope and of fine sand. The
water is as strongly impregnated with salt as that of the open sea,
but vigorous bathers will miss the buffetting of the waves.
In the centre of the Bassin are the Oifster Parks (p. 60), and on the op-
posite side extends a tongue of land consisting of sand-dunes and ending
to the S. in Cape Ferret (p. 60), on which stands a lighthouse of the first
class (8 M. from Arcachon). The roadstead protected by the cape is broad
and aafe, but access to it is made difficult by banks of shifting sand.
The long Boulevard de la Plage runs in front of the houses
fringing the Bassin, and is continued to the Place P^reire on the
W. by the Boulevard de I'Oct^an.
The street nearly in front of the Grand Hotel, a handsome edi-
60 /. Routt 9.1 MONT-DE-MARSAN.
flee to the W. of the Place Thiers, ascends to the CaHno, a large
huilding in the Moorish style , comprising a concert-hall , reading
and conversation rooms, card-rooms, and caf^s. At one side is an
iron Observatory , or belvedere, commanding a fine view (20 c). —
Farther to the W. is the church of Notre- Dame, buUt in 1856 by
Alaux, in the Gothic style. It contains modern frescoes and several
other paintings.
The Ville d'Hiver is snugly ensconced among the pine-woods,
the resinous emanations of which combine with the bracing sea-air
to make it a peculiarly healthy resort. The temperature is at the
same time very favourable to invalids, the mean of the whole year
being SS^Fahr. and that of winter 48°Fahr. Arcachon, however, is
far inferior to the Meditefranean winter-stations ; the monotony of
the woods and the absence of view are apt soon to pall upon visitors.
A pleasant walk may be taken as far as AfouUeau (Grand -Hotel), a
village about 3 M. to the W. , with an institution and a chapel founded
by the Dominicans. It may also be reached by a route passing, to the
right at the end of the Boulevard de TOcean, the Pare P4reir0j a private
park to which the public are not admitted.
Oyster Parks. Those parts of the Bassin which are left dry by the
tide, called ^Crassats\ are utilised for the breeding of oysters, which is
the chief industry of the district, supporting about 90,000 persons. The
oysters of Arcachon are in high repute and 400 millions of them are sold
annually, representing a value of about 340,0001. A visit to the oyster-
beds is interesting if time permit. Fresh oysters may be obtained there
and in the town for about 15 e. per dozen. In the middle of the Bassin,
reached by boat in s/4 hr., is the lie des Oiseaux.
The steamboat trip to Gape Ferret (p. 59) takes at least 3hrs., and
presents no special attraction except the view of the open sea. — The
excursions to the lighthouse and to the open sea, at the entrance to the
bay, are scarcely more interesting. To the Eiang de Cazaux^ see p. 68.
9. From Bordeaux to Bayonne and Biarritz.
Railway to (128 M.) Bayonne in 21/4-6 hrs. (farits 22rr. 30, 16 fr. 6,
9 fr. 75 c). — Local Railway from Bayonne to (5 M.) Biarriit in V4 hr.
(fares 75, 45 c). — Through -tickets to Biarritz convey the trayeller to
La Nigre$ie station (p. 115). — The trains start from the Gare St. Jean fp. 42).
From Bordeaux to Tarbe»^ diverging from this route at Moreenx. 163 M ,
in 41/4-71/2 hrs. (fares 27 fr. 65, 18 fr. 70, 12 fr. 20).
From Bordeaux to (25 M.) Lamothe, see p. 58. The line then
runs straight across the Landes for a distance of nearly 30 M. —
32 M. Caudos; 39 M. Imgos; 47 M. Ychoux (branch -lines to
Parentis, ?*/« M. to the W., and to Pissos, BVi M. to the E.) ; 50 M.
Labouheyre, a small industrial town (branch - lines to the W. to
Mimizan, 17 M.; to the E. to Sabres, 12 M.); 60 M. SolfMno, a
modern place, with 2510 inhabitants.
68 M. Moroenx (Buffet; Hdtel du Cormnerce), a large village,
1 V4 M. to the S. of the railway.
FioM MoBcsNx TO Tahbbs, 86 M., railway in A-41/4 hrs. (fares 16 fr. 3CL
10 fr. 35, 6 fr. 75 c). — 3 M. Arjutanx-, 14 M. St. Martin-d'Oney.
24 M. Xont-de-Xaraan (Hdtel des Amba»»adeur» t Richelieu)^ a commercial
town with 11,274 inhab. , the capital of the departoieni of the landes^
\
DAX. /. Route 9. 61
itly situated at the eonfluenee of the MUUm (or Midour} and the
rhieb together form the Mtdouxe^ an affluent of the Adour. A braneh-
henee to (61 M.) Marmamde^ see p. 68; and another to Port-Ste-
jem), see jp . ^. A third hraneh-line runs to (401/9 M .) Dmx (see below)
ra. via (lOVsK.) St. Sever (Hot. des Ambassadeurs ^ de Franee), a
»wn of Roman origin with an old abbey-ehureh (10th eent., altered
ft now reach a more fertile eonntry and gain oar first sight of the
•0, on tbe rioht, the Pie da Midi d'Ossau (p. 138) being the ehief
( visible. — 33 M. Grenade -tur-V Adour. About 3l/s M. distant it
t-teB'BaifU (omn. IVs^r.), a small watering-place with warm sul-
aths.
f. AuM-anr-l'Adoor (FoeUU a yery anelent town with 4510 inhah.
seat of a bishoprie. The cathedral and the church of Mas d*Aire
cent.) are interesting. — Beyond (50 M.) St. Qermt the line crosses
anr. — 53i/a M. Ri9eU (Hdt. de France) , the junction of a line to
»d Port-Ste-Marie (p. 68). — Tii/j M. Yic-tm-Bigorre^ with 3719 in-
the JuQetlon for Agen and Perigueuz (see p. 84S). — 86 M. Tarbe»^
Moreenx a branch-line, deroid of interest, crosses the Laades
via Sindhre$ to (14 M.) MitM and (18l/s M.) Uta.
Ri€yn; 83 M. Laluqite (branch-lines to Linxtj Wl% M. to
vl& Castets; and to Tartoi, ^^j^VL. to theE., on theMidouze).
weather the Pyrenees now come Into view on the left. —
!. Buglose, a hamlet belonging to 8t. Vincent-de-PatU (for-
*auy), the birthplace of the saint of that name (1576-1660).
ome modern chapel and tbe ancestral house of the saint are
ere, and at Buglose Is a pilgrimage-chapel. — We now quit
es and enter the valley of the Adour.
. ]>az. — Hetels. Obavd HStbl dbb Tastvas , R. from 3, B. 1,
31/0, pens. 8-10 fr., with a cheaper Annexe behind (pens. 61/9 fr.);
DB i-a. Paix , E. 21/j, B. 1, dej. 3, D. 3l/a, pens. TVs fr., omn. 26,
ik 25 c; DK L*£uBOPn; du Nokd, unpretending; Eichbubu, Ave-
r Hugo. — Invalids find accommodation at Les Baignots^ 51/4-8 fr.
nel. treatment, and at the Thermes Siris (5 fr.).
Casif^Oy de la Renaieeance^ Promenade des Remparts ; Ca/d Paml^
MX y near the Fontaine Ghaude; others in the Place de THotel
i^Qd Place St. Vincent; Buffet ^ at the station. — lUetaurant
ras»€^ Promenade des Bemparts.
tttMi*^"***"**- Thermee SalinMy private baths 80 C.-33/4 fr., public
douehes V3'lV4fr-; BaignoU^ private baths Vs-^/s fr^ pablic
! "* douelies Vs-lV4fi'') Thermet de Dax^ slightly cheaper, mud-
'3 fr.
y^ *)5 fr. per month; family-tickets cheaper.
with one horse per drive S/4 fi"-) &t night 1 fr. ; per hr. li/<> and
li two horses li/j, IV41 2, and 3 fr.
a Uyvrn with 10,200 inhab., on the left bank of the Adour,
om the station, is the old capital of the Tarhelli, called by
lans , in honour of its thermal waters , Aquae Tarbellicae,
ds Cii^tcu Aguensium, and then simply Aquae or Acqs,
m was held by the English from 1177 to the end of the
itury.
pite of its antiquity Dax has no noteworthy monuments.
irweTer , of importanoe as a thermal station , and even as a
tosort. The waters (108"* Fahr.) are used in baths of every
&1 L Routt 9. BAYONNE. From Bordeaux \
description fbr rheumatic, neuralgic, scrofuloiti, and uterine disea^s.
Some of the baths are fed by the bed -water of a mine of rock-salU
A bridge leads over the Adour from the station to the (Vt Af .)
town. To the right, on the opposite bank, are the Casino and the
Thermes Salins, with the Thermes de Dax and the Orand Hotel
des Thermes behind. To the left, above the bridge, is the copious
Fontaine Chaude, or Source of the N^he, which supplies several bath-
establishments , while the water Is also used for domestic purposes.
The site of the old walls beside the Adour is occupied by the
pretty Promenade des Remparts, and in the former moat lire the
mud-baths of St. Pierre. — The former Cathedral was rebuilt in
the 17-18th centuries. In the adjoining square is a statue, by Aub^,
of Biyrda (1733 - 1799) , the mathematician , a native of Dax. The
neighbouring Hotel de Ville contains a small Museum of antiquities
and natural history. — Farther down the left bank are the Thermes
S^ris and the Baignots, Vt M. from the bridge.
About l/s M. to the W. of Dax is St. Paul-lis-lkue^ with an interesting
church. — At Tereity 4 M. to the S.W., are warm baths containing chloride
of sodium.
FiOM Dax to Pau, 63 M. , railway in IVs'Sl/s hrs. (fares 9 fr. 50,
6 fr. 46, 4 fr. 20 c). — This lloe skirts the town on the S. and crosses
the Adour. — 8 M. Mimlxute; 13 M. Mision - Habcu, The train then passes
through a tunnel and enters the valley of the Oo»e (torrent) dt Pauy
affording a fine view of the Pie d'Anie <p. 131) and other summits of the
Pyrenees. — 19 M. Puy6o^ on the line from Bayonne to Pau (see p. 118).
The line to Bayonne now descends the valley of the Adour.
101 M. Saubwse, with mud-baths; 107 M. St. Fincene .(branch to
Soustons, 7Va H. distant). From (115 M.) Labenne a diligence (1 fr.)
plies to (4Vt M.) Cap BreUm (Hdtel de la Plage), a small port with
sea- baths. Our route now approaches the sea, which comes into
view on the right, as we emerge from the forest. The Adour re-
appears at the next station. — 121 M. Le Boucau , not far from
the outlet of the river.
We now follow the right bank of the Adour and pass the foot
of the citadel of Bayonne, skirting the quarter of St. Esprit, in which
is the principal station. For the lin« to Biarritz, see p. 64.
123 M. Bayonno. - RaUway SUtiona. Gare du Midi (PI. C, D,l{
buffet), on the right bank of the Adour. Oare de Biarritz {Fl. A, 2), <m
the left bank. Omnibus f^om one to the other, 20 c.
Hotels. *0b. HdT. du (k>iiMBKCB, d^j. 4, D. 8fr.; db Paris bt Bi&.>
BAiMA; St. Etibxkb. R. from 4, B. li/s, dej. 4, D. 5, omn. ^/a fr., theM
three In the Rue Thiers (PI. B, 3, 3); Pamibh-Plburi, Impasse Port-N«v
(PI. B. 3), R. 21/9, B. 1, d^j. 3, D. 3i/s fr.^ db L'Euioni bt GuiPi)co«Aia,
Rue Thiers 33; db Fbamcb, Plaee St. Esprit (PI. G, D, 1), near the ehleC
station, second-class. — Cafte. Pamie, Grand Baleon, de Bordemtx ^' mt^T
the Hdtel de Ville (PI. B, 3, 3).
Oabs* Per drive , with one horse 1 fr., two horses IV4 fr. ^ otttsid«
the octroi limits 36 e. extra; per hr. 3 and fll/a fr. ; at night, 1 f^. extra. —
V
pe
Tramvaf to Biarritz^ see p. 64.
Bayonne, a town and fortress with 27,118 inhab., is pretiil]| I
Biitiab Yioe*OeDnd» Mr. Paul Sek^edeUn.
Bayonne, a town and fortress with
4tuated at the confluence of the Adour and the Nive, 3Vt M. fii— 1
' t
> .
r> . ■v
I \ -.
■^ I
toBiarriti. BATONNE. L Routt 9. 63
the Bay of Biscay. The population consists mainly of Basques and
Spaniards, whose types, manners, language, and dress form a
striking contrast to those of the other inhahitants.
Bayonne, whieb is probably the Lapnrdum of the Eomans, acquired
some importance in tbe Middle Ages by its whaling fleet, its trade witb
Spain, its tanneries, and its manufactures of arms. The bayonet is said
to kare been invented here. Acquired by England along with Aquitaine,
the town remained Caithfiil to that country till 1451, thanks to the privi-
leges granted to It. It ofi'ered a vigorous and successful resistance to
Spain in 1S23. Here, in 15^, amid great rejoicings, took place the inter-
view between Charles IX. of France and his sister Elizabeth , Queen of
Spain , in the presence of thetr mother , Catherine de M^dicis , and the
Duke of Alva, when the Massacre of Bt. Bartholomew is said to have been
planned. In 1814 Bayonne made a brave resistance to the British and
Spanish troops under Sir J<^n Hope and was atlll untaken when peace
was deelared. The name Bayonne is Basque and means *port\
The suburb of SL Eiprit (PI. D, 1, 2), in which the station lies,
is dominated hy a Citada (PL 0, 1) built by Yauban (1674-79) and
considered one of his best works. It has never been taken, and over
the entrance is the inscription 'Munquam poliuta'. It commands a
fine view, but admission is not easily obtained. The ^Oimetiere des
Anglais*, at the N. base of the citadel , owes its name to the total
defeat of three English regiments.
Turning to the right on leaving the station, we cross the Adour
by ihePontSt. Esprit (PI. C, 2), fromivhich there is a striking view.
At the end of the bridge is a fortified gate, the Reduit (PI. fi, C, 2),
near the mouth of the Nive , which divides BayoTine into two parts.
Pttit'Bayonne , the quarter on the right bank , is chiefly occupied
by the working -classes. It contains the large Military Hospital
lPK€,3); the Mus^e (PI. G, 3), recently much enlarged by the
valuable collection of pictures and drawings presented by the painter
L. Bonnst, a native of Bayonne (b. 1833); the Chdteau-'Neuf (PI.
0, 4; 15th cent.), converted Into a barrack and military prison ; the
Arsenal (PI. C, 4) ; and the Chweh of 8t, Andr/ (PI. C, 3) , a mo-
<iero Gothic building in the style of the 15th century, containing
tin the last chapel on the right) an Assumption by Bonnat.
The Pont Mayou (PI. B, 3), the first bridge over the Nive, on the
other side of the B^duit, leads us to the Place de la Liberie and the
IWe d'ArmeSf separated by a large building (PL B, 2) comprising
ftefotim Hailt the Theatre, the Oustom House, etc. Farther on,
ootiide the fortifications, is the Qare de Biarritz (see p. 64). — The
fiue Thiers (PL B, 2, 3), which begina at the Place d'Armes , leads
to the ChdteaU' Vieux (PL A, 3), of the 12th and 15th cent., which
is supposed to have been built on a part of the Roman enceinte.
The continuation of this street leads to tbe —
•Cathbdbal (PI. A, B, 3, 4), originally founded in 1140, but
rebuilt after a fire in 1213. The choir was first taken in hand,
and Ae work was continued till 1544, when the great portal was
left unflnished. In 1847 a citizen of Bayonne , M. Lormand , be-
queathed an annuity of 35,000 tr. for the restoration and com-
64 /. Route 9. BIARRITZ. From B^deaux
pletion of the building, and the work is still going on on the plans
of M. Boeswillwald (d. 1896). Both spires are modern. The usual
entrance is by the portal on the N. side, which is preceded by a
vestibule. On the S. side of the church, which is hidden by other
buildings, stands a cloister of the 13th cent., formerly used as the
burial-place of the chapter. The fine ""S. Portal adjoins the Sacristy,
which contains beautiful and well-preserved sculptures of the 13th
cent. (entr. from the Interior of the church).
The internal proportions of the cathedral are vast and harmonious;
the transepts project very slightly beyond the aisles. Among the most
noticeable points are the triforium (with stained-glass windows of the
15- 17th cent.), the handsome high-altar (modern), the marble pavement
of the sanctuary (modern Italian work in imitation of an Oriental carpet),
and the modern mural paintings on a gold ground in the apsidal chapels.
In the Place de la Cath^drale is a small Fount(»in in memory of two
Bayonnais killed at Paris in 1890, with the inscription: ^Les revolutions
justes sont le ch&timent des mauvais rois*.
Outside the town, on the N. W., are the All^ Paulmy (PL A, 2),
a promenade skirting the fortifications (near the Biarritx Station, see
below), and the Allees Marines (PL A, 1), a fine promenade about
IV4 M. long, on the left bank of the Adour.
Bayonne has a handsome modem AmpMtheairt in the Moorish style,
for bnll-flghts and other entertabiments ^ it lies a little to the W. of the
town. — Race Course, see p. 66.
From Batonnb to Biabaitz, 5 M. , local railway in V4 ^'- •
trains every Vs ^'* ^om the Gare de Biarritz (PL A^ 2; fares 60.
3d c, return-ticket 1 fr., 60«.), "vii Anglet. There is also a tramway-
line from. the Place d' Amies at Bayonne to the -beach at Biarritz:
cars every Vc hr. in 36^40 min. (fares 50, 35 c, return-ticket 90, 55 c).
By the main line to the Negres^e Station at Biarritz, see p. 115.
Biarritz. — Hotels. Those of the first class are palatial establish-
ments', providing every comfort, with corretsponding charges. *H£ix. dc
Palais, in the former Villa Eugenie (p. 65), on the beach, B. from 7,
B. lVs-2, d«j. 5, D. 7 fr. : ^OBAVD-HdTBL, Place de la Mairie and Place
Bellevue, R. 54o, B. li/s-9, d^j. 4, D. 5, pens, from 19 fr.^ ikj Gasivo., at
the old Casino ^ D*AMeiJST»iKB (PI. 7), Rue Mazagraa, B.d-7, B. Vs». d6j. 4.
D. 5 fr. ; these three overlook the beach ; Victoria (PI. 8), B. from 0, L. A 1.
IVjhB. 11/2^ d^j- 4^ D- 6 (both inel. wine), pens. In winter 10-14, in nnmw
15-90, omn. 1 fr., well spoken of; Coktiiibiital (PI. 6), siaular; these MO
in the Avenue de la Seine, near the beach. -* Hdx. BiABaiTs-3Ai«iKa ar
DBS Thbbii£8 (PI. 5). to the K. E., with a covered foot-bridge to Um
Thermes, R. 3-6, B. iVa> d^j- A, D. 5, pens. 9-15, omn. 1 fr. — Hd». !>■
Paris (PI. d), Place Ste. Bug^nle, with view of the sea: BAT.'Rm»tAVMA*r
St. Jambs (PI. g). Rue Oambetta 15, dej. 21/4-31/2, D. 28/4-8 fr; *HdT. dbs
Primcbs (PL 0> Rue Gambetta 13, R. 4^ B. 1, d^j. 4, D. 5, pens. 10-12. omn.
1 fr., frequented by the English ; Gosmopolitaim (Pl. c), db l^Eubopk <p1. a),
DB Framcb (PI. b). Place de la Mairie; *db Batommb bt MirrBOPOLB (PI. h>.
Rue Gambetta 12, R. 3, B. IV4, d^j. 3i/s, p. 4, peps. 9 fr. -7- Fwmisked
Houses and Apartments abound.
Reataaranifl. At most of the hotels ; also. Central, Place de la Xslrte 31.
d^j. 21/4, D. 2S/4 fr.., furnished rooms, 2 fr. in August; AaraM, behind the
Hot. de rSorope, similar charges.
Oaffts. Anglais, de Paris, Place Bellevue; Cosmopolitain , Place de la
Vairie; de t* Europe, Place de la Libert^; Terminmt, at the sUtion (l>«]id).
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toBiarrUt. BUBRIXZ. L Mouie 9. 65
Bttths at the Bathing Establiflhmenta (see below) 30 e., with dress 46 e.
(Mi. Wiih one hone It/s fr. per driTe, 2 ff. per hr. ; with two horses
2 sod 91/9 Cr.^ 1/2 Cr. more outside the townj 1 fr. more at night (10 p. m.
to 7 a. q^.). — Bath Chairs drawn hj donkeys, 1 and IV3 fr. — Omvibus to
I'S K^gresse station (p. 115; braneh-hne projected), 1 fr. ; partlenlars at one
of the oAlees in the Place de la Maine.
Oasano. Adm. 3 fr. •, 3 fr. after 7 p. m. Subscription Cor a week 10,
for a fortnight 35, for a month 40 fr.
OolfCinD (18 holes), 1 H . from the town, with ladies* round.
Snfliah Chnrch (St. Andretff''s)^ Rue Broquedis; chaplain, Rtv. W. 0.
Sharpin, — British Yioe-GonBul: Mr. E. H. W. BeUairs. — Zi^Iiah Phytieiana:
Dr. MaekeHy Dr. WeU^^ Dr. Malptu.
BiarritZy a town of 11,869 iiihab., situated on a line of cliifs
facing the Bay of Biscay , is one of tke most frequented bathing-
places in France, especially during September. The court patron-
age of the Second Empire undoubtedly contributed to this result,
but the reputation of the place is also founded on its real merits,
such as its singular situation and its magniiicent beach. The cli-
mate is mild and free from extremes, so that Biarritz Is now in
vogue as a winter-resort. Biarritz is specially frequented by the
upper classes, by the aristocracy of Southern France and by Spa-
niards in summer, and by the English in winter.
The station is now in the Place de la Libert^, near which, to
the right, is the Place Bellevue, between the Casino and the Grand
H6tel. From the Place we obtain a flue view of the sea and of
the beautiful situation of Biarritz.
The Qrande Pktge, which is more than ^/^ M. long, extends
on the N. to Cape St. Martin, on which is a lighthouse of the flrst
class. It is divided into two parts by a small promontory on which
stands the foimer Villa Eugenie, a large and massiye building erected
by Hiapoleon III., now a hotel (p. 64). Opposite is an elegant £iM«<an
Ohvftk. At the beginning of the Grande Plage is the principal
Bathing Estahlishment, in the Moorish style, with a terrace which
always presents a scene of great animation. The fine sandy beach
is safe and pleasant for bathing, and the force of the waves is
slighMy broken by a barrier of rock.
The road passing the base of the old casino leads to the AtalayCy
a promontory crowned by a ruined castle and surrounded by a pic-
turesque chaos of rocks called La Chinaoitgue. On one side of it is
a small fishing harbour, on the other (reached by a tunnel 82 yds.
in length) a harbour of refuge, the half-ruined pier of which affords
a fine yiew of the Spanish mountains near the mouth of the Bi-
tlassoa. From the tunnel, a road descends to the Port-Vieux, a
narrow and perfectly sheltered creek between rocks. Here stands
the Batkhig Establishment lor persons who are weakly or unaccus-
tomed to the sea. — Farther on we reach another beach , the Cote
des J^<i$queSj where the waves attain extraordinary force. There is
a third bathing establishment here. On the second Sunday in Sep-
tember the Basques resort to this beach in vast numbers, and bathe
all together, presenting a very curious spectacle.
Baedeker. Southern France. 4th Edit. ^
66 /. Routt if. RONCBVAUX.
Ill 1893 Saline Baths, connected with 4 hydropathic establish-
ment, swimming-hath, etc., were opened at Biarritz, on the Bayonne
road (tramway, p. 64). They are supplied hy the saline springs of
Briscous, 11 M. to the E., whence the water is brought by means of
subterranean canals.
The Race Court* is at La Barrt^ near the entrance to the harbour of
Bayonne; the nearest railway-station is (31/8^.) AngUi (p. 64).
From Bayonne to St. Sebastian^ see B. 18; to Pau^ Toulouse^ etc., see R. 18.
From Batokmb to St. Jbav-Pied-db-Poht akd Bohcbtaux. To (33 H .)
St. Jean- Pied-de- Port ^ Bailwat in I8/4-3 hrs. (fares 5 fr. 80, 3 fr. 96, 3 fr.
56 c.) ; thence to (13l/s H.) Roncevaux , Diliobmcb (interesting road) mn-
ning to Burguete^ 3 M . beyond Boneevanx (fares 4, 5 fr.) and sometimes
going on to (60 M.) Pampelnna (13 hrs. \ fare 10 fr.). — The railway ascends
the left hank of the Nive, passing (6 M.) VilU/ranquey (8 M .) Ustaritz, a small
industrial town, and (10 if.) Haisou. — 13 M. Oambo-les-Baimi (HOttl 8t.
Martin di d*Anglet€rr€^ de Parity both near Che Baths; de France; dot Bmqnet)
is a picturesquely situated place, partly on a steep eminence on the right
bank of the Nive (Haut - OanUw) and partly in the valley (Bm - Cambo).
About V4 ^' farther (station, see below) is a bathing-establishment, with
iron and sulphur springs. The climate is hot in summer, but pleasant
in spring and autumn. A great gathering of Basques takes place ^n 8t.
John*s Eve (June 23rd), when each tries to drink the greatest possible
amount of water whilst the clock is striking twelve (midnight) , in order
td insure his well-being until the following anniversary. They al«o take
away with them a supply of the water for those who have not been able
to come. The Church at Haut-Cambo, in the style peculiar to the. country,
contains three galleries for men and a blue ceiling with silver stars.
The railway continues to ascend on the right bank of the Nive , via
(I31/2 M.) Gombo-let-Baint and (I6I/9 M.) tt»a§90u or lUaUou (Hdt. Teillery).
About 1 M. from this village, .in the rocky part of the Nive valley. Is the
Pcu de Roland^ a rock through which the road passes by an opening made,
according to the legend, by a kick of the paladin*8 foot. The Pie Mem-
darrmin (3400 ft. ; extensive view), to the W. of Itxassoiuis easily elimbed
thence (5 hrs. there and back). — The next stations are (I9I/3 M.) Louhotsoa
and (211/^ M.) Bidarrap^ 3 M. from which is a small grotto containing s
stalactite, regarded with superstitious veneration by the peasants. '-
From (361/9 M .) Oukt (Hdt. Ghibrac), at the confluence of the Ifive do Bt.
Etienne and the Nive d'*Amiguy^ a branch-line ascends the valley of the
former to (51AM.) St. Etienne - de-Bafgorry (hotels). — The railway to
Bt. Jean ascends the valley of the Kive d*Amtfguy. 38 M. St. JeaifPie4-
da-Port (600 ft. ; H6tel Apettiguy; de France; OentreU^ new, well spoken oO«
a small town fortified by Vauban in order to command the passage of the
Port or Col de Roncevaux (see below). St. Jean, the old capital of Basse-
Navarre, has belonged to France since the Treaty of the Pyrenees in IflBI-
— A diligence plies henee to St. PaloU (p. 119).
The Road to Bovcbvaux runs to the 8., on the right bank of the
Nive, which forms several picturesque gorges. At (6M.) Amiguy we Qu\^
French territory by crossing the river. — 7 H. Luzalde or Valcarlot (Hotel
de Barcelone) is a Spanish village with a hydropathic establisluBietti.
The road now ascends a magnificent rocky vallev in windings (short-ents
for walkers) to the (lOl/s M.) Port de Roncevaux (3470 ft. \ fine view). From
the col, on which is an ancient chapel, we descend in less than l/s hr.
to Roncevaux. ^ 13i/a M . KeneeTsax, Span. RoneoovaUet (8230 ft. ; ^•M^da)
is situated in the v«lley famous for tne defeat of Charlemagne*s rear-
guard in 778, and the death of Roland, better known In poetry than in
history. Eginhard is the only chronicler who mentions the famous pala-
din as among the slain. The village contains an ancient AVbep^ ^Mrith a
Gothic church enriched with a costly statue of the Virgin and seversil in-
teresting paintings. The Chapel of the Holy Ohost^ near the church, is said
to mark tne spot where the companions of Charlemagne were buried.
67
10. From Bordeaux to Toulouse.
159 M. Railway in 33/4-7Va h"- (fares 38 fr. 90, 19 fr. 55, 12 fr. 75 c).
From Bordeaux to Oahors TiHTonneins (p. ffi: change carriages), 1)9 M.,
railway in 6S/4.9 hre. ifmna 98fr.e0, 16 fr. 75, lOfr. 45e.). Tbi« is the
shortest route, but there are no through-trains. — The trains start from
the Oare du Midi or St. Jean.
Bordeaux, see p. 42. The line ascends the valley of the Ga-
ronne, passing seyeral small stations. — 12 M. Beautiran.
From Beautiran a branch-line runs to (901/2 M.) Hastens (p. 68). The
chief intermediate station is (41/2 M.) La BrAde (H9M dtt Grand -MonUS'
7»tet0, a small town eontaining the OhAUau de if^ntesquiHt^ a building of
the 13-15th eeaturies. The ehamber of the famous essayist (1688-1755) is
kept as it was in his lifetime (visitors admitted). A statue of Montesquieu,
by P. Granet, was erected here in 1805.
13 M. PorteU ; 15 M. Arhanats ; 17Vt ^' Podensac. From
(I8V2 M.) Cerans a diligenee plies to (IV4 M.) CadiUac (p. 52). -
We now traverse a district famous for its white wines, those of
(21 M.) Bar sac and (23 M.) Preignac heing specially esteemed.
Stm^erties, which lends its name to the whole class, is about 4 M.
to the S.W. of the latter place.
26 M. Laagon (Cheval Blane)^ a town of 4956 inhah., on the Ga-
ronne, has a small harboar at which the tide is perceptible.
Fbom Lahgou to Baeas, 121/2 K-1 railway in 40-50 min. (fares 3 fr. 36,
1 fr. 50e., 1 fr.). — 4i/j M. BoaiUan. — About 2M. to the N. of (Tl/j M.)
L« Nitan is the Chdteau de RoqiBetattlade, built in the beginning of the 14th
cent., with six towers and a keep more than 100 ft. high.
INiican is the icinetion of a braneh-line to several industrial places,
including (41/2 M.) Villandraut^ the birthplace of Pope Clement V. (Bertr.
de Goth; d. 1314), whose large Chdteau still exists, though in ruins; and
(11 M.) St, Spmphorien (junction of the line to Facture and Ar^; p. 68).]
121/3 M. BasM (Gheval Blanc), a town with 4806 inhab., on a rock
washed by the Beuve, belonged to the ancient Va$ates. It played an im-
portant part in the Religious Wars , when it was the scene of excesses
of all kinds committed both by Catholics and Protestants. Down to 1790
it was the seat of a bishop. The Cathedral dates from the l^lBth centur-
ies. Some of the 13th cent. Town WalU and a number of old Houses are
interesting. — The railway is to be extended from Basas to Auch (p. 85).
The main line now crosses the Garonne by a bridge succeeded
by a long viaduct.
29 M. St. Xaeaire (Hotel det Voyagewra), a town of 22S3 inhab.,
to fte right, the ancient Ligena, suffered considerably in the Hun-
dred Tears' War and the Religious Wars. It still possesses the re-
fflaias of three lines of defence of the middle ages , the principal
feature being a gateway^ of the 13th cent., and many quaint old
houses. The handsome church of St. Sauvtur^ in the Romanesque
and Gothic styles (12-i5th cent.), contains some ancient mural
paintings (badly restored). About 3 M. to the N.W. is Verdelais,
wiht a pilgrim's shrine of the Virgin.
39 M. St* Pierre -d'Aurillae, A little farther on the river is
joined by the Canal Lateral a la Garonne, 120 M. long, which
meets the Canal du Midi at TcmloUse (p. 76). — 32V2 M. Caudrot;
35 M. Qironde, beyond which are two short tunneU^
5*
68 /. Route 10. MARMANDE. From Bordeaux
38 M. La Rtelt (^rand-Mtel) y a town of 4271 inhab., o\\&
hill rising from the Garonne, was built in the 10th cent round the
Benedietine abbey of Regula, The church of SL Pierre dates from
the 13-1 5th cent, and has a modern Romanesque steeple. Adjoining
is the former Ahhey (17th cent.); and behind the church is a Ter-
race with a modern College. Near the church are the ruins of a
Castle built by the English during their rule; it is now private
property and is still partly inhabited.
49 M. Manaaade (Hot. dea Me8»agerie9, near the station; du
Centre^ Rue Nationale) is a commercial and industrial town (9888
inhab.) ou the Garonne. The Church, of the 12-15th cent., is ad-
joined on the right by a ruined cloister, in the Renaissance style.
From Marmaude to Bbrgbrac, 461/2 M., railway in 2-2^/2 hrs. (fares
8 fr. 40, 6 fr. 65, 3 tr. 70 c.). The line runs vl& (5 M.) SefcKei; I6V2M.
MiramoiU, a town of 3085 inhab., with trad« io 'prmnes d'Agen'^ aU/aH
La Sametat (p. 52); 05 M. Eymet (line to Bordeaux, see p. 53); anA
(36 M.) Istigeae. — 46l/a M. Bergerae (p. 53).
From Masuakdb to Mokt-db-Harsav, 61 M., railway in 3V4-81/4 hrs.
(fares 11 fr., 7 fr. 40, 4 fr. 85 e.). — This line, erossiag the OaronBe
and the lateral canal by means of a viaduct over KXX) yds. in lengtli,
ascends the valley of the Avance. — 15Vs M. Oaataljalonz (^Castelgelos';
H6UI Oirot)^ a town of 3578 inhab., with a ruined (Mdl«a«, remains of
FortiflcaiiMt (iGib eent.), an old Commandtrjf of thiS Knifhts Templar
(now the Mairie), a&d chalybMite springs. — Farther on the 8«enery is
monotonous as the line traverses the extremity of the Lamd*» (p. 67). —
38 M. Bourriat-Bfrganee. — 46 H. Roqu^^rty a small town with • ISth cent,
church. — 61 M. MonU4€-MwMm (p. 60).
56 M. Oonteaud - FaugueroUee. — 60 M. Tenneias ( Hdt. d(
VEurope)^ with 6796 inhab., on the Garonne, formerly consisted of
two towns, which were destroyed in 1622 by Louis XIII. on ac-
count of their attachment to Protestantism.
From Tokvbids to Cahors, 69 M., railway in 41/4 hrs. (fares 13 fr. 40,
8 fr. 45, 5 fr. 45 c). Beyond a tunnel, Va K* iong, the train emerges in
the valley of the Loty which it ascends to Cahors. 41/2 H. Clairae (3306
inhab.) embraced the Reformation with ardour and )wa8 captured by
Louis Xlll. in 1621. Beyond (ISi/a M.) Fongrave we cross the Lot. — 21 M.
▼illeneuTS-sur-Lot (JlStel Lamouroux; de France) is a town of 13,581 inhsb •
with a large trade especially in prunes, which it exports annually to the
value of 130,0001. Part of the Ramparts of the 13th cent., especially on tlM
left bank, and a bridge of the same period still remain. One of \^^
squares is surrounded by arcades of the same date. — SP/a M . Pemne (on
the line from Ptfrigueux to Tarbes) and thence to (96i/f X.) XoBsenprta-
Libos, see p. 84. — Beyond Libos the valley of the Lot is higbly pic
turesque. — 37 M. Fwnel^ an industrial towi^ of 3838 inhab., 5 M . froin
the well-preserved old castle of Bonagvil. At the foot of the hills on tb«
right are the ruins of the old town of OrgueU. — 46 M. Dwaoely beyond
which we cross the tortuous Lot-, 48I/3 M. Puy-V Evique^ a town of 1992
inhab. \ 531/3 H. CatteU'ranCy with a castle situated on the right » littli
short of the station; 57 M. Luxeehy with a ruined castle of the 13th cent^
on a peninsula formerly defended by a Celtic fortress, of which aonoe re
mains have been discovered. — 59VsrM. Parnac. To the left is the clia%fta|
of Oritette. — 641/3 M. Mereuii, with an interesting castle of the 13th centi
on a hill to the right, belonging to the Bishop of Cahors. — 6911. OoAori
see p. 90.
64Vt M. Nicole, beyond which ^we cross 'the Lot, not far from i<
confluence with thaGai>Oiiiie.
to Tmlaute. AGBN. /. BmUe 10. 09
67 M. Aignillem (Tapis Vett), tke AtUio of the Romans, on the
left bank of the Lot, contains 3094 inhab. and possesses the ruins of
a castle of the Dukes of that name, and a modern Qothlc church.
72 M. Port-8t6-Marie (H6t. de V Europe}^ a small and ancient
tovn on the Garonne, with two Gothic churches of the 14th century.
From Pobt-8t£-Mabib to Movt-db-Maksak , 70 M., railway in 4S/4-
6Vs hrfl. (fares 10 fr. 25, 7 fr. 35, 4 fr. 80 e.). — The line erossea the 0«-
rODBe. 3>/4X. Feugarolles; 6I/4 M. Viwne^ a amall walled town; 8 X.
Ltuardnc^ a small industrial town on the Baiie^ with a trade in cork.
12 M. ITfoae (H&t€l de France)^ a eommereial town of 6683 inhab. on the
Bsise, belonged to the Bires d^Albret from the llth eent. onwards, and
WM often the residewee of the court of Kavarre in the 16th eent., before
the accession of Henri IV to the French throne. Taken and dismantled
by Louis XIII. on account of its Protestant sympathies , it has never re-
gained its fonner importance. Only a part of its lUth eent. OMImw remains,
but the park still exists, forming the beautiftd Proaunadt ds Im Gartnne^
which contains Tarious points of interest. In one of the squares of Nerae
is a statue of Henri lY, by Raggi. The Sovi-Prifecture contains a small
lus^e with three paintings by Turner. -^ Bmneh-liae hence to Aise/*,
see below.
Beyond N^rac the train traverses a tunnel, 1 M.*in length, and ascends
the valley of the OiUte, passing (21 M.) UMn, with a church of the 12-
14th cent., and other smaH stations. 331/2 X. St-Pi-a^Mmou. The line
ascends and enters the valley of the Adour. — 42 X. Barbetaa (Grand
H6tel)y a village with thermal and mud baths. Beyond (45 M.) Caxauban
we descend the valley of tfhe Dome and then that of the Xidon. — 71) X.
JfMt>(ie-if«rsoii, see p. 60.
[Fkom Nskao to Bisolb, 60 X., railway in 2S/4-7 hrs. (fares 11 fr. 10,
7fr.40, 4fr. 85e.). — 13 X. Oendom (Lion d' Or), a town with 7046 Inhab.,
on the Ba'ise, carrying on an important trade in Armagnae brandy. It
was formerly the seat of a bishopric, wbieh was held by Bossuet. The
handsome Gothie Cathedral (1506-21) is adjoined by remains of a cloister,
now eonUining the ffdM d€ VUle. — 34 X. Xanie (ff^4l Soubepran), a
town of 4175 inhab. on the Otli$e. It is the modern representative of
^{ttia, an important town in the time of Ceesar, which was completely
destroyed about A. D. 910. The old town was at La Ciutat CCity*) , about
1/3 X. to the £., and many antiquities have been discovered on its site.
Eause has a Ana Gothie Cimreh of the 16th century. — 416V9 M- Nogaro^
a town of 2170 inhab., with a trade in brandy. Its old Romanesque church
ia interesting. — 60 X. nUeUy see p. 61.]
76 M. Fourtic; 79 M. St Bilaire; 8OV4 M. Colayrac As we
approach Agen , we see to the right a line aqueduct, carrying the
canal across the railway (see p. 70).
84 M. Agen (Buffet). — Hotels. Vasmiii, at the station, d^j. 21/, fr. ;
(iuxD-HdTBL, Place du Quatorze-Juillet, to the left of the exit from the
statfon; Qbohob, Rue Jacquard, B. from 2. d^j. 21/3, D. 3 fr. \ dbs Ahbas-
sADsuRs BT db Frakce, Cours Voltaire 22 ^ Pbtit - 6t - Jbam , Ck)urs Vol-
tsire 35^ pu Xidi, Boul. President Gamot ^ Goktimektal , at the station.
- Cafte. Fop^ SJLgtn^ Place Jasmin \ Orand^ close by. — Cabs. Per drive
V4, per hr. IV4 fr. \ with 2 horses IV4, 21/4 fr. — Psi* * Ttitfraph OfJle«,
n«ee de rHotel-de-Viile.
Agen, a town with 22)780 inhab., the capital of the department
of Ldt-et-Oaronne, and the seat of a biehop, lies on the right bank
of the Qaronne. Th<e new BtnUevcard PreHdent Carnot^ traversing
the town Aroin N. to S., and the Boulevard de la R^puhli^e, cross-
ing it at right angles , have much improved the town , which was
formerly badly built, especially in the older parta.
70 /. RofUe 10. A0£N« From Bardemtx
As the eaplUl of the Nitiobrifftgy Agen wm a slAce of importance
under the Gauls , and it afterwards became the chief city of the Aginoit.
The executions of Albigenses and Uugiienots form bloody pages in its
history. It was the birthplace of the nhilologist Joseph Sealiger (1&4D-
1609), and of the naturalist Lae^pide (1766-1835). It has ai Uvge trade in
dried plums.
In front of the station is the Steeple of Ste. Foy, a modern Gothic
tower marking the site of a former church. — A little farther on,
to the right, is the CoAhedral of St CapraU, with a fine apse and
transept of the ll-12thcent. , and a nave rebuilt in the 14- 16th
centuries. The interior is richly decorated with polychrome paint-
ings and frescoes. Among the most noteworthy features are the
left arm of the transept and the huge piers which formerly supported
a dome, adorned with shafts ending in singular capitals.
The Rue Raspail and the Rue Jacquard lead from this church
to the Market Hall, a handsome modern building in the centre
of the town. In the E. part of the Boulevard de la R^publique (see
p. 68) are a modern Bv4t of Franpoia de Cotele (d. 1567), an Agenais
poet, and a Statue of the Republic, by Fumadelles.
In the opposite direction, the Boulevard descends to a small
square adorned with a bronze Statue of Jasmin (Jacques Bo^ ; 179S-
1864) , author of several poems in the Agenais dialect. The statue^
by Vital Dubray, represents the poet, who was a barber by pro-
fession and has been styled the ^Last of the Troubadours' , in a
quaint French costume, and reciting the following verses, which
are inscribed on the pedestal : —
^O ma lengo, tout me sou dit, I O ma langae, tout me le dit,
Plantarey uno estelo Je placerai une ^toile
A toun froun encrum{t\ { A ton front rembruni.
In front of the Place Jasmin runs the wide Cours Voltaire, which
a little farther to the £. skirts the Promenade du Oravier , on the
bank of the Garonne, here crossed by a Suspension Bridge for foot-
passengers. Higher up is a Stone Bridge , while lower down is a
Canal Bridge or aqueduct , over which the Canal Lateral is car-
ried , and which also serves for foot-passengers. On the same side,
to the right, not far from the Cours Voltaire, is the Church of St-
Hilaire, a building of the 15th cent. , with a modern fafade and a
handsome modern tower. The interior is adorned with polychrome
paintings and contains some good modern stained-glass windows and
a handsome stone organ-loft.
The Rue Londrade , the second in ascending the Boulevard de
la R^publlque from the Place Jasmin, leads to the Eglise des Ja-
cobins, a brick building of the 13th cent., adorned with polychrome
paintings and modern stained-glass windows. — Hence we proceed
by the Rue du Pont- de- Garonne to the Hotel de VilU, adjoining
which is the Hdtel de Vaurse, a building of the 16th cent, with
a fine winding staircase. It contains the Interesting Municipal
Museum, which is open to the public on Sun. and Thurs. from 1 to
*■ or 5, and to strangers on other days also.
toTmUousi. MOISdAJC. L Bouie 10, 7i
The Rue Montesquieu, which begins at the Market and is joined
by the streets which pass the Hdtel de Yille, leads S. to the Pro-
menade de la IrlaU-Farme, in which stand the Prefecture , ori-
ginally the Bishop's Palace (18th cent.), the modern Palais de
Jutiiee, and other large buildings. In front of the Palais de Justice
is a small bronze War Monument ('Round the flag*), by Oampagne.
The Rue Palissy, to the right, leads back to the GraYier (p. 70).
From Agen to PMgueux, to Auch^ and to Tarbet, see B. 13.
87 M. Ban-Encontre, the station for the pilgrimage-resort of
that name, 1^/4 M. to the N.£. , and the Junction for Auch and
Tarbes (p. 84). — Then five small stations. The Garonne is crossed
by numerous suspension -bridges, one of the finest of which, near
Moissac, is prolonged by a viaduct, carrying the road over the railway.
Ill M. Moifiae {Hotel du Nord; du Luxembourg), a commer-
cial town with 8769 inhab., on the Canal Lateral and the right bank
of the Tarn, is of yery ancient origin, and suffered severely in the
wars between the 5th and 17th centuries. Its celebrated abbey, of
which the church and cloisters remain , is believed to have been
founded before 650, and was suppressed in 1790. Turning to the
left at the end of the Avenue de la Gare, we reach the —
Church of St. Pierre. This was rebuilt in the 15th cent., but
retains a magnificent, though somewhat mutilated *Portal of the
12th cent., originally on the W. fa^ade^ but removed to the S. side
in the 13th century.
The portal eonsiats of a deeply reeeased arebway forming a kind of
poreh. llie central pier is adorned with lions and statues of the Pro-
phets in high relief, while on the lateral piers are similar statues of
Uaiah and St. Peter, and sealptuied bands of rata and birds. The inner
^allB of the porch are also lavishly embellished with groups of statues
(the Annunciation and the Visitation on the rights Avarice and Luxury
on the left) and bas-reliefs (Infancy of Our Lord^ Dives and Lasarus). The
tympanum group represents Our Lord surrounded by the Elders of the
Apocalypse, with symbols of the Apostles and two Angels. Both statues
and reliefs are framed in bands of decorative seulpture, of great beauty
and deUcaey, and at each aide are three attached columns, the capitals
of which are adorned with griffins, arabesquea, etc.
The chief objects of interest in the interior of the church are the Re-
aaissanee screen enclosing the sanctuary, the organ, a Merovingian aareo-
(hagus (below), and wood-carvings of the 13th and 15th centuries.
The * Cloister, adjoining the church on the left, and entered from
tie little Place in front of it (custodian), dates from 1100-1108 and
is one of the finest in France. Its arches, which are very slightly
pointed , rest alternately on single and clustered columns, the cap-
itals of which are embellished with scenes explained by inscriptions.
Beyond Moissac the railway passes through two short tunnels,
after which we see on the right the church of St. Pierre (see above).
We then cross the Tarn by a tubular bridge, and reach —
116 M. Caftelianatin (Hdtel de France ; de I' Europe), a town with
7871 inhabitants. The name has nothing to do with the Saracens,
but is supposed to be a corruption of 'Castel-sur-Azin' or'Castrum
72 /. Route 10, MONl'AUBAN. From Botdtaux
Cetrucium*. The brick church of St, Sauveur (12^1 5th cMit.^ \ft
interesting ; the tower OTer the n&ve is modein.
Beyond (121 M.) La VilUdieu the line to Cahors and Limoges
(p. 92) diverges to the left.
128 M. Montaaban (Buffet), - The Gore du Midi and the Oare
d'OrUant are 1 H. apart, each lying about Va ^' ^^om the centre of the
town, hilt they are connected by rail, and the trains which arrive at the
latter go on to the former.
Hotala. *Dc Midi, Place d^Armes, of the first class, d^i. or D.
Sfr. ; DB L^EoROPB, Place de THorloge and Eue de rHdtel-de-VUle*,
QuiLTBB Saisoks, Bue Bessi&res. ^ Oaf^t. De VEur^pe^ Place de la Pre-
fecture; des MUle-Colonnes^ Bue de la B^publique 90. — GaM. Per drive
60 c, per hr. 1 fr. 30 c.. at night 1 fr. and 1 fr. (K)c. ; two -horse eabt,
80 c.f 3 fr., 1 fr. 80 e., and 3 fr. — Post 4 TeUgrafh OAm, Bue des Lices,
next the Prefecture.
Montauban, a prosperous town with 30,003 inhab. , the capital
of the department of Tarn-et-Oaronne, and the seat of a bishop,
occupies a plateau on the right bank of the Tarn , the sides of
which are washed by two small affluents of that river.
Montauban was founded in 1144 by Alphonse I, Count of Toulouse,
on the site of the Roiiian station of Mfont Albanus. It embraced with ar-
dour the doctrines of the Albigenses, partly through hatred of the monki
of Le Moustier, which is now its N.B. suburb, and the Inquisition wrought
terrible havoc here, without, however, preventing the Reformation from
making such progress that the town was one of the chief strongholds of
the Huguenots. Louis XIII. failed in his attempt to capture the town in
1621, but the struggle could not be continued after the fall of La Boehelle.
and the town, submitting to Richelieu in 1629, had its fortiflcations
levelled. Even now it is partly Protestant, and it has a Faculty of Protest-
ant Theology.
Quitting the Qare du Midi , we traverse the suburb of VilU-
Bourbon and cross the Tarn by a lofty brick Bridge, built in 1303-
1316, with pointed arches; it was formerly fortified. The Tarn
is even more turbid than the Gers ind the Oironde.
The Hdtel de ViUe, a brick building on the other side of the
bridge, is the old ch&teau, begun by the Counts of Toulouse, added
to by the Black Prince in the 14th cent, and finished by Bishop ?•
de Berthier in the 17th century. The Museum, on the first floor.
is chiefly interesting because it contains the collections as well •'
some paintings and souvenirs of Ingres (1780-1867), who was «
native of Montauban. It is open to the public on Sun. from 1 to 4.
and to strangers on other days also.
First Floor. — Rooms I, II, A III. eontaln paintings by Atffrtt (in R. 11*
44. Jesus among the Doetors in the TemplejL. Jouwrnti, Mignard^ Fo*aai»x
Jordaeni^ PourSut ^ Holbein ^ P. VerwM%€^ ett. B. Ill is the first room uf
the MuUe Ingru. — Booms IV, V, A VI. contain an important eolleetioo
of drawings (many of them copies by Ingres himself) , antiquities , casts>
Sictures (15. Portrait of MolUre, attributed to Seb. Bourdon; copies ui'
aphael), sculptures (Cupid bending his bow, attributed to PrmxiUUi).
bronzes, ete. The callings of the 4th and 0th rooms deaerve Botlee.
The Basbmmut contains a Mmeutn of AntiquUion and ObJec$s of Art o(
the Middle Ages and the Benaissanee. — The Public Library (25,000 vols i
and archives are also deposited in the H6tel de VfUe.
A !
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i TOULOUSE
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t^TotUouse. MONIAUBAN. I. BofUe 10. 73
Oppostte the Hdtel de Ville stands the Ext^angey containing t
Mugetun of Natural History (second floor ; open on Sun., 1 to 4).
We turn to the right and proceed to the Church of St. Jacquety
a briek building in the Gothic style of Toulouse (see p. 77), with
an octagonal tower adorned on the outside with fayence. The pulpit
and the fine modern stained-glass windows are noteworthy. — A little
farther to the E., behind St. Jacques, is the Place N<UionaU, bor-
dered by double arcades and with gates at the comers (17th cent.).
In the Place d'Armes, which we reach by turning to the right
on the other side of the Place Nationale, stands the dUhed/ral , a
commonplace building of the iSth cent. , but containing a fine
painting by Ingres (in the sacristy), representing the Vow of
Louis XIII. — A litUe farther on, to the left, is the Prejecture, a
modern edifice in stone and briek.
The Allies de Mortarieu, to the right, on this side of the Pre-
fecture, in front of a convent, lead to the Promenade de* Carmesy
at the end of which stands the Monument to Ingres, by Etex. It
consists mainly of a bas-relief in bronze, reproducing the picture
of the Apotheosis of Homer, with some modifications by Ingres
himself, and of a bronze statue of the artist seated In front of his
work. In clear weather the Pyrenees are visible from this point.
At the beginning of the promenade is the entrance to the
Jardin des PlanteSj which occupies the slope on the right bank of
the Teseou, an affluent of the Tarn, and also part of the left bank
in the suburb of Sapiac. The church of Sapiac , which is reached
by the street descending at the end of the promenade, possesses a
second-rate picture by Ingres, representing Ste. Germaine (second
chapel on the right).
From Hontauban to Limoget (Paris), see B. 18; to MonipMUr yii
Cati/ra, see B. 16; to L^xot (Llmofes line), fee p. 96.
The railway now returns to the side of the Canal Lateral, leaving
on the left the line to Gastres, and traverses a fertile but uninterest-
ing district, passing several small stations. At (155 M.) Lnrowr-
tmsourt we join the Parts line (R. 13 ; to the left).
159 M. Toulouse (Gare Matabiau), see below.
11. Toulouse.
Kaaway Btotions. Qare Matabiau (PI. F, 1, 2 ; Buft'et), the central station
on the 1^. £. side of the town ; Gare St. Oyprien (PI. A, 5), to the S.W., about
iV4 V. from the stone bridge over the Qaronne, for the line for Auch
(P %)*, fl^arV'JItfj/tMt, in the Avenue de la Patt«-d*Ote (Fl. B, 4), for the
line to BottlocBe-sur-Gesse (p. 82). — There are no hotel-omnibuses at the
stations, but the trains are met by railway-omnibuses (4U c. for each pers.
and 95 e. for each trunk) and cabs (see p. 74). The town -office of the
railway-emnibuses is at Bue Lafayette 91.
HstsU, *HdTBL TivoLUKB, Rue d'Alsaee-Lorraine 17 (PI. £, 3), of the
first class, E. 3-6, dcj. or D. 5 fr.: •HdTBL Capool & Souvillk, Place
Ufayiftto, with baths, B. SP/a-B, B. 1, d6j. 3, D. Si/a, pens, froto 81/2 fr. •,
ORAW.ridraL, Rue de Meta, K. aV«-8 f'- — Da i.'Eohope «t dc Midi,
74 /. Rdute lU TOULOUSE. HcfttU.
Plaee Lafayette^, 7 (PI. S, 3), B. 4-7, B. li/s, d«j. 4, D. 5^ peas. 10-15 fr.,
well spoken of; Grand HStbl Gbktral. Bue St. Pantaloon 1, behind tbe
Hotel TiYOllier, B., from 2l/o, B. 1, d^j. 21/s, D. 3, pens. 9 fr. — Db Paris,
Bue Qambetta 66, pens. 7-71/2 fr.; du Gramd BaI/Cok, Bue des Lois and
Bue Bomiguieres (PI. D, 3). — ^Tbrmmus, B. 2Vr$i B. 1, d4j. 3, D. 3, pent.
8-9 fr., *Batard , B. from 3, B. 1, d6j. 21/3, D. 3, pens, from 8 fr., Faobi,
B. from iVs) d^j. 2-31/21 !>• ^V? ^^"» ^^^^^ \\iTW opposite the Gare Mata-
biau (PI. F, 1). — H6tala MenbMa. Gr. B6tbl Hbcbl^ dbs Arcadbs, Plaee
du Capitole; Baich^b, Bue des Arts 7 (PI. S, 3,4); 'Ob. H$tbl db u
PosTB, Bue d'Alsaee - Lorraine 38, B. 21/2-6, B. 1 fr. (commercial); dbs
Baiks. Bue Keuve-St-Aubin 5; dbs Am^ricaius, Bued*Austerlitz 5; Dubkt,
opposite the Gare Vatabiau.
Baatauraato. *TivoUier^ see p. IB; Cafi Atbrighi^ Avenue Lafayette, d^j. 3,
D. 81/2 fr.; MonuiU^ Bue du Sal6 0; Dori^ Place Lafayette lobis, d^j. or
D. 2i/2fr. ; des BouUvardt^ Boul. de Strasbourg, d^j- 2, D. 2l/8fr. ; BtM
TerminuSy H6i. Baj/ard^ see above; Buffet at the Gare Matabiau. — A
speciality of Toulouse and other towns in S. France ia P4t^8 de Foies 4e
Canard auz Trufies (pies of duek*s liver with truffles), and they are also
famous for their ortolans, mushrooms, and fruits.
Oafis. Cafi de la PaiXy Bibent, Richard^ Place du Capitole : LafayetU,
Place Lafayette; Aibrighiy dee Amiricainty Or. Ca/4 Paget ^ de la Oomidit^
Avenue Lafayette; in the Plaee Etienne, etc.
Oaba ((HtadiHei). One horse: per drive within the town 90 e. by day,
13/4 fr. after midnight, per hour 1 Vs ^^d 21/2 fr. Two horses : per drive
1 fr. 10 e. and 2 fr., per hr. 1 fr. 80c. and 3 fr. Drive to hirer^s address, 25 e.
more. Each package of luggage 20 c.
Tnunwaya (comp. tbe Plan). From the Place d« QapUoU (P1.E,S) to
St. Cyprien (PLC, 4), to the Gare MaUbiau (PI. F^). to the Minlmes (H-
suburb ; PI. D, 1). From the Avenue Lafayette fPl. £, F, 2) to Les Amidonniers
(Pl.G, 2), and to St. Michel (P1.D,5) by the Boulevards. Prom the it««
de Mett (ArchevSch^; PI. E, 4) to the Gare Matabiau. From the PImi
Extirieure St. Michel (Bridge ; PI. D, 5) to the Place St. Cyprien. Fare 10 c;
^eorrespondanee* 5 and 10 c. — Omnibuses also ply in the city and suburbs-
Post and Talajnaph Offloa (PI. E, 2) , Bue de la Poste 6 ; Place de U
Bourse (PI. D, E,3), etc.
Theatres. Thidtre du Capitole^ at the Capitole (PI. B, 3 ; p. 77). for opeiM
and comedies (tickets 60 c. to 5 fr.); TMdtre des Varim* (PI. B, i), Avcnae
Lafayette, for dramas and operettas (60c. to Si/jfr.); Thidtre Pranfoii,
Place Lafayette (50c. to 4 fr.); Thidtre des NouveautiSy Boul. Carnot 56 (50 c
to 4 fr.). — CiBCDS, Avenue Lafayette 64, near the Canal.
Music. At the Avenue Lafayette (PI. F, 3; p. 76) and the Orand-SoHd
; p. 80) on Sun. and Tburs.; In the Place du Capitole (PI. E, S;
p. 76) on Thurs. ; and at the Cours Dillon (PI. C, D, 4^ 5) on Sunday.
(PI. F, 5; p. 80) on Sun.
Baths. Dutemps, Place Lafayette 1, bath 1 fr; at the B6tel SouvHk:
St. Martoire-Laprade y Bue de la B^publique 15. — Biver Baths, Ifog^t
Quai de Tounis 34 (PI. D, 4, 5).
Protestant Charoh, Bue Deville (PI. D. 3). — SynafOffua, Bue Pala*
prat 2 (PI. F, 3).
Toulouse still maintains night-watchmen who cry the hours (^minuit
pasB^, dormez en paix*).
Toulouse (460 ft.), the ancient capital of Languedoc, the present
capital of the department of the Haute-Oaronne, the headquarters of
the 17th army corps, and the seat of an Archbishopric, a Uni-
versity , and a School of Medicine , is a city with 147,696 inhab.,
situated in a fertile plain on the right hank of the Garonne, at th«
Junction of the Canal du Midi with the Oanal Lateral (pp. 76 and
67). It is a large and wealthy town , ei^oying great Importauce
from its position as the centre of Southern France, and from the extent
HUUry. TOULOUSE. L Routt Ih 75
of its industry and commerce. The greater pert of it is irregularly
laid out, aud its ezcessiTe heat in summeri combined with the
vioient winds to which it is subject all the year round, makes it
a fatiguing place for the visitor. Considerable improvements and
embellishments have , however , been undertaken and partly exe-
cuted of late years , and the town has a character of its own and
a BuMciency of historic remains to recommend it to the notice
•xof strangers.
Toulouse, the aneient Tolota^ was an important town acme cen-
turiea before It waa conquered by the Bomana. It waa the capital of
the Tectoaages and poaaeaaed a temple which waa celebrated for ita im*
menae treaaures, pfirtly stored in aaered tanka. Having allied itself
with the Gimbri to ahake. off the Roman yoke, it waa talLen, in B. C.
106, by the consul Quintua Servilius Caepio, who seUed the treasures
of the temple. Csepio waa, it ia true, utterly routed by the Cimbri
in the following year, but he waa aucceeded by Marina, and Toulouae
was reduced to aubmiaaion. In 419, after the fall of the Koman empire^
Toulouae became the capital of the Viaigoths , and in 607 it passed into
the power of the Franks, after Clovis had vanquished Alaric II. at
Vouille. Subsequently it recovered its independence, and in T78 it was
made a county governed by hereditary princes till it was united to
France in 1271. Under its Counts the city eujoyed a lung period of pros-
perity, but the Albigensian wars brought upon it great calamities. Count
Raymond VI. , too tolerant in the eyes of those who had just instituted
the Inquisition, and accused of the assaaaination of the Papal Legate,
Peter de Caatelnau, tried to aave the town by a most humiliating sub-
mission, but had notwithstanding to see it besieged by Simun de Mont-
fort, leader of the crusade, to whom his dominions had been adjudged.
Raymond auceeaafully defended the town on the flrat attack, but he waa
dispoasessed of it in 1214, after the battle of Muret (p. 129). Toulouae
did not, however, tamely accept the rule of De Montrart, and till 1239
its history was little more than a succession of revolts and sieges. On the
succession of Louis VIII., King of France, to the claims of Amaury de
Montfort, son of Simon, Raymond VII. had Anally to aubmit, and the
Inquiaition extinguished with the utmost cruelty what was left of heresy.
Thereafter the town became so oblivious of the principles it had so
bravely defended that it repeatedly made itself notorious by violent acts
of intolerance. Thus in ldo2 a civil war broke out between the Roman
Catholics and the Huguenots , and 4000 of the latter perished , while 900
more were massacred on St. Bartholomew's Day in 1573. Dr. Vanlni,
accused of Pantheism, was burnt alive here in 1619, after having his
tongue cut out, and an aged Protestant, Jean Calaa, unjuatly accused of
murdering his eldest son in order to prevent his becoming a Roman
Catholic, was broken on the wheel in 1762. The generous exertion of Voltaire
in behalf of the last-named victim is one of the brightest gems in the great
author^s crown. In 18i& General Ramel, eonfldant of Louis XVIII., was
assassinated here by the Verdets, volunteers more royalist than the king
himself. In 1862 the authorities had to interfere to prevent a festal eel
ebration of the tercentenary of the massacrea of 1562. — On April 10th, 1814,
the final battle of the Peninaular War took place at Toulouae between
Wellington and Soult, some days after Napoleon^s abdication.
The Univertity of Toulouse, founded in 1229, is the oldest in France
after that of Paris. Like other provincial universitif s it was re-established
in 1866, and it has faculties of Literature, Law (Rue de TUniversit^ 2
and4>, Beiencie, and Medicine (AUee St. Michel*, PI. E, F, 5). The city
also contains an Ecole des Beaux-ArU et de» Sciences Jnduttrielles (PI. D,3, 4),
a Con$ervaioire de Husique^ and an InsHtui CathoHque^ Rues de la Fonderie
and de la Dalbade.
The Oare Matabiau or central station (p. 73) , which has be-
76 /. Route IL TOULOUSE. CapiioU.
come too small for the traffic, lies to the Nȣ. of the town. On
quitting it , we cross the Canal du Midi, turn to the left, and soon
reach the Avenwe Lafayette (PI. F, 2). At the beginning is a marble
Status of Riquet ^ the creator of the Canal du Midi , by Riffoul-
Dorval, erected in 1838.
The Oanal du.Mldi or du Langued6C was made in 1666-81 by Paul Ri-
quet of Bexiers entirely at his own expense (17 miUton franes. which
would to-day represent a sum of 34 million franes, or about 1,960X100 /.).
It connects the Atlantic and the Mediterranean with the aid of the Ga-
ronne. It begins at the Bassin de TEmbouehure (n.A^l), a little below
Toulouse, and ends at the Etang de Thau, beyond Agde (p. 105), after a
course of 148 M. It is S3 ft. wide at the bottom and 65 ft. at the surfkee and
its depth is 61/2 ft. Its highest point is 8 M. to the N.W. of Gastelnaudary
(p. dS), and it has 100 locks, 26 on the side of the Garonne, with a fall
of 900 ft. , and 74 on the other side, with a fall of 435 ft. It is fringed by
a double row of trees, those on the side next the Mediterranean being
cypresses, as those trees are particularly fitted to mitigate the Mistral,
which often blows on this side. The C€mdl Lateral, not finished till 1838,
was made in consequence of the obstacles to navigation presented by the
Garonne in its upper course. The Canal du Languedoc was at one time
regarded as a perfect marvel of engineering skill ^ but lately it has been
proposed to replace it by a ship-canal.
On the other side of the canal and the railway stands a huge edifice
containing the Veterinary College (PI. F, G, 1), one of the three veterinary
colleges which exist in France, tlie other two being at Alfort (near Paris)
and at Lyons. Beyond it stands the Obtervatory (P\. G, 1: not aecesvible
to the public), adjoining which is a brick ObeliMk^ erected in commemo-
ration of the Battle of Toulouse (see p. 75). In clear weather the Pyre-
nees may be seen from this point.
At the end of the Avenue Lafayette we cross the Boulevards,
which form a ring round the old town, and reach the Place La-
fayette, an oval Place with a garden embellished with a bronze
group ('The Wrestlers') by Labatut. Hence the Rue Lafayette leads
to the Capitoie, crossing the Rue d* Alsace-Lorraine, a splendid
new street which traverses the town from N. to S. (PI. E, 2-4).
On the £. of the Place du Capitoie, the centre of the town,
rises the Capitoie, or Hdtel de Ville (PI. E, 3), a building of the
16-19th cent., almost entirely rebuilt in recent times. The common-
place Ionic facade, rising directly from t^e square 'Place' used as a
market I scarcely justifies the classic name. That, however, is due
to the magistrates of the town before 1789, who were called 'Capi-
touls'. In the first court, which has a fine Renaissance dooiway.
with a statue of Henri IV, by Bachelier, Duke Henry II. do Mont-
morency, Marshal and Governor of Languedoc , was beheaded in
1632. He had shared the revolt of the Duke of Orieans against
Richelieu because the title of High Constable was refused to him.
The great hall or 'Salle des Illustres', in the interior (apply to the
concierge), is embellished with paintings and sculptures by modern
French artists, many of them natives of Toulouse. — The Acad^mie
des Jeux-Floraux formerly established here has been transferred to
the Hdtel d^Ass^zat (p. 79).
To the 8. of the Capitoie is the Thedtre Mvmdpal du Ca^UoU
St. SeffUn, TOULOUSE. /. BotOe ML 11
(p. 74), and b«hind the two buildings is the Donjen, a square keep
of the 15th cent., rebuilt on Yiollet-le-Duc's plans in 1880, and
now the depository of the archives.
We may now either visit the Mus^e (p. 80) or proceed to the N.
from the Place du Oapitole, following the Rue du Taur, which owes
its name to the Egli$e du Taur <P1. £, 2 ; to the right), built on the
spot to which St. Satumin, the apostle of Toulouse, was dragged by
the bull which he had refused to sacrifice to Jupiter. It is a building
of the 14-15th cent, and possesses a facade with triangular arches
and battlements. The interior contains modern paintings by Bern.
B^nezet (the Martyrdom of St. Saturnin).
The church of *8t. Serain, or St. Saturnin (PI. D, 2), at the end
of this street , is the chief monument of Toulouse and one of the
finest Romanesque churches in existence. The choir was begun at
the end of the 11th cent., and the building was extended westwards
in the 12- 13th cent., the great W. portal remaining unfinished. A
thorough restoration took place under the direction of Yiollet-le-Duc
(d. 1879). The church is cruciform and has a nave with double
aisles. It is 830 ft. long, and 104 ft. wide; the transept is 210 ft.
across; and the nave is 70 ft. high. The ^Apse is flanked by five
semicircular chapels , and each arm of the transept has two similar
chapels adjoining its E. side. These chapels group picturesquely
with the apse, the choir, and the transept, and above the crossing
rises a fine octagonal *Tower, of later date, with five tiers of tri-
angular arches in the Tolosan style and terminated by a gallery
and a spire, 210 ft. above the ground. An Outer Parch of the
l^th cent. , erroneously attributed to Bachelier, stands in front of
the S. transept-porch, facing the Rue du Taur. This portal and the
one on the N. are both more interesting than the unfinished portal
at the W. end.
The IvTBBioK is of large dimensiona for a Romanesque church, but
the general effeet is somewhat marred by the strengthening of the central
pillars supporting the tower. Under tne choir is a crypt (adm. 60 c.)
containing the relics of six Apostles, St. Saturnin and three of his suc-
eeiwora, and many other saints. In a ehapel of the M. tranoept is a
sinpilar Byzantine figure of Christ, on a colossal scale (12th cent). The
16th cent, stalls also deserve attention; on the first to the right is a pig
in a pulpit, intended to represent Calvin preaching. On a pillar to the
left of the entrance to the ambulatory is the ^Crucifix of St Dominic*
(131^. Behind the chair are some interesting bas-reliefs of the 13tb cent,
and a Holy Family attributed to Oorreggio. Farther on is a votive ofiiarlng
of 1538, representing the church as it then was^ surrounded by defenaive
worlu. The organ ia a fine modern inatrument. — The Trea$ury^ entered
from the ehoir-erypt (adm. 60 e.), contains two magnificent copes and
other objeets of the 19th cent., etc. — The carillon of St. Sernin plays
the *Ave Maria de Lourdes* every hour, and parts of the same composi-
tion evary 1/4 hr.
Opposite the facade of St. Sernin is the former Collie St. Ray-
mond (15th cent.), restored by VioUet-le-Duc, and converted into
a Museum of JnduitrUU Art and Anti<fuiti€8 (adm. as to the Mus^e
des Be»ttZ«Aft8, p.. 81).
78 /. Moute 11. TOULOUSE. La Daiwrade.
On the groundfloor are collections of foreign art and eUmography
and objeets of the 17- 18th eent.^ etc. On the Ist floor are Greek, Egyptian >
Roman , and Qallic antiquities ; a collection of coins (6000 in number) ^
mediaeval and Renaissance objects; furniture, arms, medals, seals, ena-
mels, ivories, etc.
Returning to the Place da Capitole and following the Rue
Romiguieies towards the W., we pass, at the corner of the Rue De-
ville , the Protestant Church (PI. D, 3) , some paces to the right of
which ) in the Rue Deviile , are the remains of the Egliae des Car-
deliers, a building of the 14th cent., burned down in 1871.
To the left, opposite the Protestant church , begins the Rue La-
kaiial, in which stands the Lyc^e. The Church of the Jacobinf (PI.
D,3), which is attached to the Lyc^e, is a tasteful building of the
13 -14th cent. , chiefly noticeable for its 13th cent, brick tower,
which, however, has lost its spire. This is a typical Tolosan tower,
with triangular arches. — The Lycee (PI. D, 3) occupies a part of
the large building at the end of the street, originally the house of
Bernuy, the Spanish merchant who guaranteed the ransom of
Francis I. (2,000,000 fr.) after his capture at the battle of Payia
(1525). It has fine details in the Renaissance style. In the same
building, on the side next the Rue des Balances, is the Town Li-
brao'y, containing 70,000 vols, (open daily, except Mon. morning,
9-11 and 1-5; closed Aug. 15th to Oct. 15th).
The Rue Lakanal joins the Rue Gambetta, following which to
the right, and again turning to the right we reach La Daurade
(PI. D,3), a church rebuilt between 1764 and 1810, which owes its
name ('dor^e' , Lat. deaurata) to the richness of its original de-
corations. The present edifice, which is partly shut in by houses,
is of no architectural merit. The usual entrance is by the side-
doors in the Rue de la Daurade or on the Quay (No. 1). The choir
is decorated with scenes from the life of the Virgin , painted by
Roques the Elder. Gl^mence Isaure (p. 79) is said to be buried
beside the high -altar. The flowers destined for the successful
candidates in the Jeux-Floraux (p. 79) are blessed here on 3rd May.
A little above the somewhat dull quay on which the Daurade
stands the Garonne is crossed by the Pont-Neuf (PI. D,4), a fine
stone bridge of seven arches, built in 1543-1626 by Nic. Bachelier
and his son. The roadway was lowered in 1867.
On the G€wonne within the town are two extensive mills, eaeh having
34 mill -stones. Below the Pont St. Michel, at the end of the He de
Tounis, is the MotMn du ChdUau^ so called because it belonged to a cha-
teau now replaced by the Palais de Justice (p. 80). It is mentioned
as early as 1183. The other, the JfotUin du Batadt^ founded in the 9th
cent., is below the Pont St. Pierre. Its weir dates in part from 1719.
Farther down are several other industrial establishments, whieh ra*ke
use of the mill-lead. — Close at hand, on the right bank, is a Ibtaee*
Manufaetorp (1600 hands). — From the K. side of the river, near the
last-named mill, issues the small Canal de Brienne, which unites with
the Canal du Midi and the Canal Lateral at their junction, in the BoMia
d€ V Bmbouehurt y at the W. end of the Faubourg St. Pierre.
The vast pile of buildings to the right, on the other side of
La DMade. TOULOUBB. /. JtMcte Ih 79
the Pont-Neuf, in Ihe Fftnbourg St. Oyprieiif is the Hdiel-Dieu
8t Jacque$ (PI. D, 4), ft hospitel founded in the 12th cent.,
but repefttedly rebuilt. — Farther down is the Hospice 8t, Joasph de
la Chave (PI. C, 3), with a dome-covered ehapel. — On the left, near
the Hdtel-Dieu, stands the old Chdteau d'Eau, whose tower, 90 ft.
in height, together with the new one near it, supplies the town with
water from the Garonne, purified by underground filters in the
meadow between the Garonne and the Gours Dillon (Pi. D, 4-5).
To the E. of the Pont-Neuf is the Place du Pont (Pl.D,fi,4)
whence the Bue de Hetz runs across the town in the direction of
St. £tienne (p. 80), intersecting the Rue d* Alsace-Lorraine. On the
left, as we enter it, at the end of a short cross-street, is the HOtttl
d'Aiiteat et Clteenoe Isaure (PI. D, 3, 4), a handseom building of
the 16th cent., the finest parts of which are the court (unfinished),
recalling the style of Bachelier, and the staircase with its tower.
The mansion was presented to the town in 1895 to serve as the
seat of the Ac^d^mie des Jeux-Floraux and of the learned societies
of the city, which formerly met at the Gapitole.
Tbe Acadhnie de* Jeux-FlorauXj^trhn^B the oldest literary infltitation
in Europe, waa founded in 1323-9T, under the name of the ^ College du
Oay S9aToir% and observed the cuatom of distributing flowers of gold
and silver to its laureates. Glemenee Isaure, a noble dame of Toulouse,
left a legacy at the end of the 15th cent., which enabled it to increase the
number of these flowers, and the Flower FSte is held every year with
great solemnity on May 3rd. The flowers distributed are nine in number :
the amaranth of gold, the violet, marigold, primrose, eglantine, and lily
of silTer, all for poetry; the violet or eglantine and immortelle or jasmine
of gold, for prose eompositions, and the carnation of silver, a ^consolation
prize*. The Academy consists of 40 *Mainteneurs' and an indefinite number
of *Maftres-e0-jeux\ The former are so called because it is supposed to
be their duty to ^maintain' the Provencal language and literature.
The Hdtel d^Ass^zat is also the seat of an Aeadtrnp of Seienet^ InBcrip-
Hons^ and BelUs-Lettres^ founded in 1640, and of an Academy of LegUlaHon^
dating from 1851. The town numbers many other learned societies.
To the S. of the Place du Pont we follow the Rue des Couteliers,
which leads to La Balbade or the church of Notre - Dame - la-
Blanrhe (PI. D, E, 4), rebuilt in the middle of the 15th century. It
has a fine square tower and an elegant portal of the Renaissance, by
Nic. Bachelier, with a modern tympanum in enamelled terracotta,
representing the Coronation of the Virgin, after Fra Angelico. The
interior, consisting of a nave ^^ ithout aisles, is distinguished by its
bold proportions.
A little farther on to the left is the Hdtel St, Jean (No. 32;
16-1 7tli cent.), the seat of the Imtitut Catholique. To the right, in
the Bue de la Dalbade (No. 25), is the MaUon de Pierre or Hotel de
Clary, a fine mansion of the early part of the 17th cent, lately
restored; and on the left is the Hotel Felzins (No. 22). — The Rue
St. Jean , to the left, leads to the Place des Garmes , where we see
on tbe opposite side, at the beginning of the Rue du Yieux-Raisin,
anotlier fine Renaissance building, the Hdtel Lashordea or de Fleyres,
whieh is considered the masterpiece of Nic. Bachelier (1515).
80 /. RouU 11. TOULOUBE. CSmftedral.
The Rue du Vieuz- Raisin descends to the 8.W. to the srasU
triangular Place du Salin (PI. £, 5), where the aut08-da-f<6 of the
Inquisition took place. Adjacent, to the W., in an unpretentious
house occupied by nuns, is the ChapeUedd VlnqtUHHon, open to
visitors, but no longer containing any relics of the Holy Office.
. A little lower down is the Palais de Justice (Pi. £, 5), the old
Palais du Parlement, a plain building, containing some richly de-
corated rooms. — To the N. rises a statue of Cujas (1520-90), the
celebrated jurist, a native of Toulouse, in bronze by Valois (1637).
To the S. of the Palais is the Alle'e 8t, Michel, near the end of
which, on the right, is the ornamental entrance of the Jardin des
Plantes (PI. F, 5), one of the finest promenades in Toulouse. Ad-
joining the entrance is a Mtiseum of Natural History (open on
Sun. and Thurs., 1-5 in summer, 1-4 in winter).
Nearly opposite the entrance to the Jardin des Plantes is the
Jardin Royal (PI. F, 5), in which are a marble statue by L. Laporte-
Blaissy (Morpheus awaking), and a bronze by A. Fabre (Shepherd
playing with a panther). Adjoining is another promenade, the
Grand' Bond or Bovlingrin (bowling-green), the focus of five
avenues. This also is embellished with statues by Falguier, Mer-
ely, Barth^lemy, etc. Band, see p. 74,
We proceed to the left, via the Rue Klnau, to the —
Cathedral of 8t. Etienne (PI. F,4). This church consists of three
distinct and somewhat inharmonious parts. The W. Front, flanked
on the left by a huge square tower, and now much mutilated, dates
from the 15-16th century. It has taken the place of an earlier fagade,
the rose-window of which (13th cent.) has been retained, though its
position is no longer central with regard to the main doorway. The
Nave, which is the oldest part, is a wide and rather low structure
of the first half of the 13th cent., without aisles. It is evident that
it was meant to be rebuilt after the completion of the Choir, which
was taken in hand in 1272 on a larger scale and with a different
axis. The work went on till the 16th cent, when so many churches
were left unfinished. The choir is a handsome and imposing struc-
ture with aisles, though it was partly spoiled in the 17th cent,
when restored after a fire. It Is surrounded with seventeen chapels
and is adorned with stained-glass windows of the 15-17th centuries.
The metal screens and the stalls are noteworthy. Above the higb-
altar is a Stoning of St. Stephen in marble and stucco, by Oervais
Drouet (1670).
The Rue St. Etienne, in front of the Cathedral, takes us back to
the Rue d 'Alsace-Lorraine, where we turn to the right.
The*Xui6e def Beaux- Arta (Pi. E, 3) occupies au old Auguatine
convent (much enlarged), of which some interesting features ramalii.
and a new and massive brick building, designed by Viollei'4^~J>%Un
bounded in 1742, thia collection is particularly rich in aiitiquitiae
Mu8/e. TOULOffSB. /. Route IL 8i
md pietQTM. It is Of en to tbepuUic on Sun. and Tlnirs. from noon
till 5 in sommec and till 4 in winter, and to strangers on other daya
also. Tke entrance ia on the W. side, in the Bue d^Alsace-Lorraioe.
The sTTangement of the paintings, etc., is not yet ftnal. — Direetor,
Mom. Laborde.
GsouKD Flook. The Oramde Qalerie^ which we enter first, cont&ias
antique aculptures, altars , aareophagi, inseriptiona, ete. — To the left ia
the *L«rff£ CloUUr , a pieturefigue struetare of the 14th cent. , the trefoil
arehes of'whieh, supported by double eolumna , recall the Moorish style.
It eoQtalns seulptures. Christian sarcophagit and inscriptions. Adjoiiung
ia the *Small CloUteVt in the Renaissance style (1626), containing some fine
bas-relie fs and other works of art of the period.
The former Churchy at the end of the Small Cloister, contains modem
sealptures and a number of paintings: Be^f. Constant^ Mohamed II. entering
Conatan-tinople-, De Qrot^ Hercules and Diomede, the last work of the
artist, who had not the courage to bear the criticism it aroused. — In a
tasteful 15th celltury Chapel ^ parallel to the second gallery of the chief
cloisters, is the continuation or the Museum of Antiquities.
FiB8:r FiiOOH. The staircase ascends from the LaJrge Cloister near the
Qreat Oallery first entered. The two rooms next the street contain the
chief treasures of the —
Pietore Gallery. There are still three series of numbers : black for the
French paintings, red for the Spanish and Italian, and blue for the Flemish,
Dutch , and German. — Boon I. From left to right : 31. Braioatmt , The
Sorceress •, 18. J3ot»2a«»^tfr, Procesaion of the OargouiUe, at Rouen; 28. Coiguett
fiaalbec^ ^..H4d4ntin^ Women at the fountain; 40 Diat^ Mymphs and
Cupida; 36 B.DeUteroix^ Huley Abd-er-Bahman , Emperor of Morocco^
146. Robert'Fleurff, Pillage of a house in the Giudecca; 68. Lazerges Scourging
of Christ. — 44. FcOguilre, Sphinx; 190. ProUiii, End of the halt; dO. CoTinon^
Death of Ravana; /. P. Laurent^ 93. Pool of Bethesda, 94. St. John Chrys-
ostom and the Empress Eudoxia;58. Oir(ffMy Anacreon, Baechus.and Oupid ;
103. Lumin€ti*^ Horses watering; 134. PiU^ Sister of charity. — 56. Qmirim^
Nymphs at the tomb of Adonis; 3. AnHgna^ Compulsory halt; 73. htibf^
Boulogne; 43. Duveoiu, Deposition of the Doge Foscari (liOT); 38. O^uinrtt
Love of gold ; 160. Sehoptn , Jacob and Laban ; 77. .foytfn , Palace of the
Popes at Avignon; 62. &ir&uXy Boman Oampagna; 16. LangMi^ Alexander
the Great yielding Campaspe to Apetles ; 67. rK«n, Cupid fleeing flrom slavery ;
Boucher;v^. Pastotal, 17. Bathers ; 135. AMfOKf, Diogenes; 143. fUgaud^ Bacine ;
5. BerHn, Jacob returning to Canaan; 141. A^^cnMl, The Regent; 99.Lemoine^
Apotheosis of Hercules ; l41. Ondrjf\ Hunting; t4. P. <<« C^mpa^^ne, Descent
from the Gross ; 38. Rnvetteyn (not Mierevelt) , Portrait; 63. VertM , Head
of an old man; 38. Jff6nthQrst (not Janssens), Crown of Thorns; 46. Seghen^
Adoration of the Magi; K Quminy 43. St. Catharine. 143. St Lawrence;
44. Rubens^ C^irist between the thieves (unAnished); 61. MurUh^ St. Diego;
33. Jr«l/, Kitcheiii-seene ; 47. BlbtreOUM^ Pastoral scene ; 7. (krqutOMMi^ Knlfo'
crinder: 41. FtfMvtfvW, Plazsa San Pi6tro; 87. Crespi^ Demoeritus and Heva-
eUtu0; 17. Cfu^reino^ Beheading of BS. John and Paul. — 30. Ascribed to
Pnart'e^ Marriage of St. Catharine ; 4. Annibt^t Carraeei^ Virgin appearing
to saints; 33. Lauri, Stoning of St. Stephen; 33. Raphael (or OiuUo Jio-
manoQ, Head of Damari^ (study); 1. Baroedo (1)^ Holy Family; 33. Loea-
t«m', Tobias andtte a«^U>fi. >Camim>i Boiltc; dil -feiatfo ; *37. Perugino,
St. John the Evangelist and St. Augustine; 30. OuidOy Bearing of the
Cross; 34. LocaUfliy On the wi^y to Emmaus; 6. OerquMti^ Bl^l^smith;
16. Oueardi^ Cet'emony of the Bueentoro at Venice; 89. TempeHa^ Cavalry
skinmUrh; *a3. ProcaceSni^ Betrothal of St. Catharine; 9. P. da Cbrtona^
Moses trampling on the crown of Pharaoh; 31. Van Dgck^ Christ and
angels ; 6. tarn BlOMim, Oirce; 86. £oi«iW, Trltimph of Judith; 30. Van
Dpc^ Mirada p«rfoimQ4 %t Toulouse by St. Anthony of Padua (at hia com-
J9aa»d an ass kiuaels before the Holy Sacrament, rather than eat the oata
tliat arc o£feT64 to it, although it bas been three days without food), «
copy «f iM ofeigtibal at Lille j 37. row der JftcWm, Louis XIV. bafcwa
Baedeker. Southenr France. 4th Edit. ^
S3 I.. Route IK TOUfiOUSE.
gftmbrf^l 6.. Vim J^IdftiMii, ■ Ridinff-sefaool ; S9. Yam I^ek. AehiU«» detected
by VlyBaes; 19. De Orwtry Job; 41. Poorter^ Lucreti*; 18. 0. vftn Raarlm,
The golden age; 36. De Lairesse^ Cniei&xion; 49. Van Swanetelt^ Italian
scenes Ph. d€ Ohmmpaignt^ 19. Grueiflxion, 16. Louie XIII. eonferriDg tbe
eoUar .^•. tbe Order of the St. Eeprit; 191, 180, 103. Unlauw^^ Portraits;
Ph. de Champaigne , 15. Annunciation , 19. The Virgin and the Souls in
Purgatory ; 100. Lesueur^ Manoah's sacrifice i 163. Le VaUntUty Judith ; 106.
Mtgnard, Ecee Homo ; Stella, 158. Christ and St. Peter, 159. Holy FamiW ;
1^. Pouitin, John the Baptist; 176. A. Vouei, Deliverance of St. Peter; «.
La/oste^ Venus and Vulcan ; 169. Viffnon, St. Cecilia ; 76. JottveMt, Descent
from the .Cross; 178. Unknown Artigt, Head; 111. Mwmayer, Flowers; 84.
Lagren^e, Caritas Romana; 87-89. De LargiWh-e^ Portraita (87. himself);
81. Lafoise, Presentation in the Temple; 143. Rigaudy Portrait; *lftB. Urn.
Le Brunt Baronne {de Grussol ; Oroty 65. Cupid, 67, 69. Portraits of the
artist and his wife ; 134. lUgnier, Carthusian monastery in Auvergne.
Boom II. 71. Benner^ Mary Magdalen ; Beuon, Gr6ti^ as a child ; 96.
Alb. Laurenty Christ and the Holy Women; 33. (^oty The morning-star;
97. A. LaurenSy Hvmn to Ceres ; 41. D. Pottget., Moors in blossom ; 61. Oide,
Monastery; 54. Flemish School (Mth cent.)y Life of John the Baptist; 55,68.
Oerman School (?), Descent from the Cross ; 54. Italian Schooly S8. Leonard
and James; 56. Flemish School, The Evangelists; 18. Jtattan Sehooly Ma-
donna; 97. Flemish School, St. Peter; Italian Sehooly 47. Crucifixion, 45.
Madonna and Child with two saints.
On issuing from the Mus^e, we turn to the right along the Rue
d' Alsace* Lorraine in order to regain, on the left, the Place du
Capitole, or, on the the right, the Place Lafayette, etc.
From Toulouse to Bordeaux (Agen), see B. 10; to Idmoges (Paris), see
B. 13; to BayonnCy see 11. 18; to Bagnires de-Luchony see R. 35; to St. OtronSy
see B. 36; to Axy see B. 3T; to Lyons vi& Le Puy and AuriUac, see B. 37;
to Cette (mmes; Lyons), see B. 14.
Fbom Toulousb to Auch , 55 M., railway in 3i/s-3 hrs. (farea 9 fr. 95<
6 fr. 75, 4fr. 40 e.). There are four trains, one of which starts from
the Oare St. Cyprien (p. 73), which those from the Gare MaUbiau Ukr
35-30 min, to reach , having to niake a circuit of 6 U. The line passes
through a pieturesque and diversified country, crjQssing several valleys. —
14 M. (from Toulouse -Matabiau) Pibrae, birthplace of Germaine Cousin,
a young shepherdess (1578-95), who was canonized in 18167, and whoie
tomb has become an object of pilgrimage. — 36 M. Llale-leardaia (Sii-
Daubriac)y a town with 4305 inhab,, beyond which we cross the Save. -
Near (98 M.) Oiment-Oahusao we cross the Oimone. Gimont is a small
town with an interesting Gothic church, of brick, visible on an eminence
to the left. — 44 M. Awiet, beyond which the line crosses the Arrati.
49 M. Marsan, with a fine chateau. — 55 M. Auch (p. 85).
From Tovlodsb to BouLoevs-sua-GBssB, 61 M., narrow-gauge railway,
startiag from the Oare Jloguet (p. 73) and passing various unUmportaat
stations. 36V2 M- I'Ombes ftwo hotels) has an intereatiiig ««thedral of th«
14itb eentury. — From (6i M.) Boulogne - sur ' Oesss a diligenee plies to
(181/t M.) S$. Gaudons (p. 139).
IS. From P^riguoux to Tarbat .
186 K. Bailwat in 9 hrs. (fares 33 fr. 70, 3^ fr. 80, 14 fr. 90 c). — From
Paris to tarbes rii Limoges, 496 M., in 3dl/a hrs. (fares 89 fr. 60, 00 fr. 90,
39 fr. 50 c); vi& Bordeaux, 515 M., see B. 1 and p. 00. — From Umfos to
Tarbes^ 347 M., in 13 hrs. (fares U fr. 86, 30 fr. 30, 19 fr. 75 c).
Fi^tigueuz , see p. ^9. The train passes near the ruins (left) ol
Chdteau Barriire (p. 41); to the right is the Tour Vdsone (p. 41}.
Beyond (7M.) Niveraac (p. 250), the Junction for Brive, our line
at^eiids. 11 M. Yertanfus; 15 Vt H. La Qdlit. — 21 M. JKrcffiMW/.
SAllLAT. LB^iiil7. SS
About 3 M* to the E. of the station is' the Oretto of Wknmmi or fVov
it OremviUe^ the galleries of which measure altogether ahout 3i/t M. In
length. The ^Orande Branehe* is about 1100 yds. long., and contains re-
markable stalactites and stalagmites^ fossil shells, etc. The guide, whose
sttendanee is necessary, lives close by., The entrance is narrow and the
ground almost everywhere slippery; the atmosphere cold and damn. To
see the whole would take eight hours, but curiosity may be satisfied in
two. The most interesting )pointfl bear more' or leM appropriate names.
Beyond Miremont we erosa two viaducts , pass through a short
tunnel, and cross the Ve%h'e* — 25'/tM. Les Eyzi€9, a picturesquely
placed Tillage, surrounded and overhung by magnificent rocktf. These
rocks contain a large number of Orottoes, where remarkable dls-
eoveries of bOnes Qf extinct animals', human skeletons, and im-
plements of flint and reindeer horn have recently been made.
The line now again crosses the V^zere. Beyond (30 M.) Le
Bugt^, a commercial town with 2640 inhab. , we cross for the last
time i^e tortuous Y^zere-, whielk joins the ]>ordogii* a little farther
on. On the left is the old Chateau de P9r4i§at; to the right the
village of LimeuU, once a fortitied liown . We now enter the beautiful
valley of the i>or<{opn6 and cross that river.
Bd^/s M. Le BuliMii (Bufftt), the junction of the line from
Bordeaux vi& liboum^ and Bergexac (p. 53) to Cakon (p. 90)..
About 31/3 U* to the Si. is Gadouin (Ho* d'Or)^ which once possessed
a celebrated abbey. The only remains are the church (iSth cent.), with a
fine painting of the 15th cent., and the magnificent ^Cloisters, in the late-
Oothie style.
Faojt Lb Buisaon to St. Daxwtaiie-llaaTBL (AuriUac)^ GO M., railway
in 2Vrd bra. (fares 8 fr. 95, 6 fr. 5, 3 fr. 95 c). We follow the main line
as far as (4l/sM.) Sioracy the next station', and crossing the Dordofne ascend
the beautiful valley of that river to the E. — 91/3 M. St. Cpprien^ a smalt
town of 9M inhab., ob the left. Td our left is a range of hills on which^
beyond (13 M.) St. Vincent -BitnuKy the fine OAd^eati de Bepnae (13th, 14th,
and l^h cent.) comes into view. We cross the Dordogne.' The chftteau
(Utta cent.) seen on the right before the bridge belongs 4o (14 H) Cuttel-
naud. — 16 M. Vitac. We now quit the river.
lIQii/s M. Sarlat i*H^t. de la Madeleine^ Rue de la Bepublique), a town
of 7SS5 inhab;, in a valley about 1/3 M. to the left o^ the station. The
large building to our left ai we arrive is a seminary. With the exception
of the B.ue de la Bepublique, the streets are narrow, crooked, and iU-
baJJt, but they contain several quaint old Houses^ some even in the Gothic
style. The most interesting are in the Rue Gambetta, to the right, where
there ia alao a ruined eharfh of the. 14th century. A little farther on is
a Cathedral, of the 11th, l^h, and i5th cent., with some fine wood-carving,
fhe 16ih cent, house near the entrance was the birthplace of La Boetie
(153t)-i563)) the author and friend of Montaigne, to whom a statoe was
erected in i892L The lane ascending by the left of the ahurch skirts an
enclosure within which is a Sepulchral Chapel, a Gothic structure of two
stories, belonging to a convent (visitors admitted).
BexyoBd Sarlat' the' railway ^tnms to Che valley ef the Dordogne ; fine
view to the right. ^ 3ever»is]|iaU stations. At (SSi/gMO Qago^lh$ (p. 80) we
join ftbe line from Cahors and follow it to beyond .Uie viaduct of bouillac
38 M. Seuillac (p. 89). iYe cross the large viaduct and see another
to tlie l«ll, over Which rnns'the line to BHve. :Then, farther on, another
7iadu.ct and a tiianel, over 1/4 PC. in length. — 41 M. Le Fige&n.
46 M. Martel, a little town to tl^e left, has the remains of a curious
Hotel de Ville (14th and Idth cent.) and an interesting churfeh of the
15th denturr. -- The raill«^ay now attains a considerable elevation (flaa
6*
84 h Bottle /?• LBOTQUBE. From PMgwux
view to Ibe xigbit)^ tr»v«r6e» vQck-euttivga ^d five ion^iils, be^ns to
d«8ciBad rapidly* and joio» the line from^ Toulouse vl& Gftpdenae beyoM
the Cirque de Montyalent (p. 99; on the right). — 50 If . JSt. Pmut-prit-
MwrM (p. 93).
Beyond (40 M.) Siorac we quit the Dordo^ne valley , which di-
yerge« to the left, and skirt slopes planted wiUi Tines.
43 V2 M. ^dvh (three hotels), a small town of 1988 inhabitants.
The coui^try now becomes very hiUy ; the line crosses five viaducts
and passes through a tunnel il640 yds. long. 50 M. Lt Ooty with a
large export of mushrooms (cepes) gathei^ed in the neighbourhood.
54 Vs M. ViUtfr^7ither'd%'PMgQrdy 4 small town on a hill rising
from the AUtmmtce, which we eioss repeatedly farther on. 58 M.
8<i,uvtt€ipr€ , with a ruined oastle of the ISth cAntury* — 60 M. St,
Front f with a partly fortified Romanesque church. Then three
bridges with a short tunned between the first two. — 64 M. Cu%om.
67V2 ^' XoBtMnpMii-Iibot (Bt^ei). Mensemproii» on a height
to the right,. has an interesting Gothic- «nid Romanesque ehuroh.
JS'rom MonaempTonoJiibos to Gahor^i jee p. 68^ to Ottpi^nun* aee p. 94.
The Agen line skirts the Lot for «om« distuioe, passing (71 M.)
TrmttlS'Ladignac, — » Bridge over the LotjifdMi tvra short tunnels-
77 Vt M. FtiMu, on a hill IV4 M. to the N. of the stotion, with
the scanty remains of a famous medliev&l castle. At some distance,
to the left, are the ruins of CoAttl Oaillard,
From Penne to VilUneuve-$ur-Loi and Tonneins^ see p. 68.
We now traverse a pretty valley and a tunnel - 1350 yde. long.
To the left is the lofty tower of Hautefage (15th cent.). QQ M. J^'
rogue, with remains of fortifications. Beyond (90 Vt-^*) Pont-du-
CasM we cross the Caned Lateral a la Gawmm (p. 67) and join
the Bordeaux line.
. 94 M. Agem ( Buffet) ^ «ee p. 69. To Bordeaux and to Taulotue,
see R. 10.
We here quit the QrMans Railway and proceed by the Chemin d«
Fer du Midi (Toulouse line) as far as (97 M.) Bon-Eneonire (p. 71)*
beyond which we cross the Claronne by a fine viaduct and ascend the
valley of the Oera, passing several small stations.
lldVjM. Leotoure (H6tel de I' Europe, Rue Nation ale), an ancient
town of 4736inhab., on a steep and almost completely isolated hill.
The principal Church, formerly a cathedxal, to the right, at the end
of the Rue Nationale, is a massive building of the ISth and 16th
centuries. It contains side-chapels with galleries; the fine penden-
tives of the apsidal chapels are noteworthy. At the end of the prom-
enade (fine view of ^e Pyrenees) behind the church Is \ Statue of
Jlfarafcai I.annc« (1769-1809) , Puke of Montebellci , who.was boiu
at Lectoure of obscure parents. The Biue de FontHle , which de-
scends to the right of the old episcopal palace, near the church, leads
to t\i^ Fontaine HOndAie or Font- Elie, which dates from the Bomau
perjlod, when it is said to have been consecrated to Dian% of J>elod
to Tarbei. AtTGH. 1. B$9H IV. 85
or to th« 9wa ; H was partly t%hniH In ibe mlddto ages. It fomg a
grotto irfth pointad vaulting and two archm cloaad by a tailing.
We now cross tbe Oers, and reaeb {123 M.) FlewraneSy a small
town on its rlgbt bank. Beyond (126*/t ^•) Mamtetirue tbe Ckra is
again crossed; 130 M. Stt. Christie, Beyond (133 M.) Rmmb^fi-
Pteiffndn, tbe line to Toulouse diyerges to tbe left.
138 M. KuA {Hdtd de France , Place de lUfitel - de - Ville ;
Georges, Rue de Lorraine), the ancient capital of GfoiroHy, and now
the chief town of the department of the Oers, with 14,838 inhah., is
situated on a steep hill risipg from the river Gers. It was the capital
of the Atuici, and was very flourishing under the Romans. Since tbe
9th cent, it has been the seat of archbishops, who formerly styled
themselves the Primates of Novempopulania.
The town ta eiytered by a ^sireet to tbe right of the station and
the Avenue d'Alsace , which leads to a bridge over the turbid and
yellowish Oers. The Rue de Lorraine, beyond the bridge, ascends
to a small Place (right), with a Statue of Admiral ViUturtt-Jayeuse
(1750-1812), by H. Nelli (1884). Turning to the left into the Rue
Gambetta, we soon n^fk the Pla<Sc» d« l*fi6tel -de -Ville and the
Cours d'Etigny, a promeiiad« ad(mied with a Statue of Meyret
d'EHgny, a governor and boMefactor of the district in the 18th cen-
tury. In the BStel de Ville is a small Muste of paintings, anti-
quities, etc. (adm. Thurs. & Sun., 2-4). At the other end of the
Gours is the modem Palais de Justice.
The •Cathbdral o* St. Mabv, in the Place adjoining the
Hotel de Ville, rebuilt in 1483-1662, is one of the finest churches
in the South of France. It is in the form of a Latin cross with a
transept in tbe debased Gothic style ; the classical portico is sur-
mounted by two square towers of the composite order.
The Intbriok It more Imposiiig than tbe eHerior, wbieh On the whole
is soanewhat heavy and «old. The Choir (ckw«4) eontain« 113 beaali-
fally carved *SMUy masterpiecea oC their period. Tbe rood-loft between
the nave and choir has ffiven platfe to a pretentious modern Choir
Orgem^ with panels on its sides adorned with paintings on a gold ground.
The reredoa at the High AUmr m a luige and tasteless marble ereciion
of the end of the 16tb century. The d^apels of the Ambulatory contain
rich stained glass of the Renaissance , representing Patriarchs, Prophets,
Apostles, and Sibyls. Some of the seulptures in the ehapels are also
ootewortby. Bebind the ehoir are several bas-reliefs of the Benaisaance.
Near the cathedral stands tbe A^dihishope* Palace (18lh cent.),
with a Tower of the iith century. A handsome ftight of 232 steps
descends hence to the left bank of the Gers, by which we may re-
gain the bridge and the statioii.
Ffom Aueh to TmOome, see p. 89*
155 M. Kiraade {Hdtel Jx^ffargue^RimsselU; TartoM^, a small
town (3771 inhab.) with the remains of foortiilcations, was built, on
a rciguUir plan towarda the close of the 13th century. It coutains an
interesting chuveh of the 15th cent, with a belfry abore the street.
171 M. ViUecomtalsur-Arros. The Pyrenees, which htve al-
86 LBouUia. SOUONAG.
ready been in sight for some time, are now, in clear weather, very
distinctly seen daring the descent into the valley of the Adouf.
173 M. Babatitent^de^Bigorrt (H6t. Trcmette), a small town to
the left, at the siege of which Blaise de Montlue, the famous and
terrible. opponent of the Oaivluists, received a fMghtful wound in
the face , which obliged him to wear a mask for the rest of his life
(i570-77). In revenge he ordered a general massacre, from which
only four persons, two of them Catholics, escaped*
•The train now crosses the Adaur and turns to tbe S. 178 M. Vic-
en-Bigorre (H?jt- de la France^ Poste), a town with 3719 inhab., the
junction of a line to Morcenx (p. 61) ; 179 M. Pujo ; 180 M. Andrest
186 M,. Tarbee (see p. 126).
13. Prom Limoges Ohtria) to Toulouse.
I93i/a or 316 M. Railway in 5Va-8«/4 hrs. (fares 36 fr. 50, 25 fr. 6, 15 fr.
70 c.). — rrom Paris to Toulouse via Brive and Gahors, 443 M., in Wi-
ail/s hrs. (farea 80 fr. 90, 54 fr. 90, 8&fr. 35 c).
I. From Linuigei to
a. VIA UwMhe.
6IV3 M. Bailwat in IS/4-SI/4 hrs. (fares 11 fr. 20, 7 fr. 60, 4 fr. tN) e.)
The trains start from, the Bare des Beji^dietiiis.
Limoge8,seQ p. 36. — The line passes below the town by a tunnel
1085 yds. in length , crosses the Vienne, «nd ascends the valley of
the Briance, to the S. £. Fine view of Limoges to the right. Then
a viaduct and a tunnel. To the left a modern ch&teau.
7V«M. Solignac'U-Vigen. The small town of Solignae (H«t.
du Ghemln-de-Fer) Vt M. to the right, was formerly the seat of «
Benedictine abbey, founded in the 7th cent., rebuilt in the 18th,
and now a porcelain manufa£tory» The interesting Romanesque
Church of the 12th cent. ha» a dome-vaulted nave. Near Le Vigen.
on an eminence on the left bank of the Briance, is the Castle of
ChaluMct, the ancient residence of the Viscounts of Limoges, which
was built in the 12th and 13th cent, and dismantled in 1593. Its
triple walls were about 65 ft. in height. Two towers and other parts
of the stronghold are still standing. This castle is seen from the
railway, to the right, beyond the next viaduct and tunnel.
13 M. PiertcBufJiire (HSt. de la Providence), with parcelaiii-
manufactaree, was the biithplace of the surgeon Dupuytren <1777-
1835), a statue of whom has been erected near a bronze fountain
presented by him to the town. — The train then enters th« valley
of the Blanzou and crosses the Briance. — 17 M. Olanpes. Beyond
(20 M.) Magnan-VUq the Petite -Briance is crossed by a long and
lofty viaduct. — 22Vz M.' St Oerfnain- Us -Belles; the little town
lies 1 M. to the left. 26 M. La Poreherie. We now enter the Basin
of the Dordogne, and beyond (31 Vt ^O 8al(m*'la»T4nir descend the
valley the Ve«er«.
BBIVK. /. MouU 19. 81
M^/f M . Viereka (Hoi. Pommarel) , a town of 3232 inhaV , Is
pictonsquely situated about V4 M. to the S. of the station, on a steep
hill washed by the Vet^re. It contains an interesting Romanesque
Church and seyersA castellated mansions of the 12-i6th centaries.
Uzerche claims to be the Uxellodunum of antiquity (comp. p. 92).
The railway next trarerses the Oorpet de la V/%^e, crosses three
bridges (the third spanning the Y^zere), and threads a tunnel. ^
About 4Vt H. to the S.W. of (41 Vt M.) VigeoU (2986 inhab.) is the
Carthusian monastery of Olandier (restored 1869-79). We enter a
wooded rocky gorge in which there are eight tunnels. Between
(46V2 H.) Estivaux and (51 M.) Alkutac there are four tunnels and
a bridge. We then quit the Y^zere.
54 M. Bonsenae (B6t. du Firigard, etc.), with 3090 Inhab., pic-
turesquely situated to the left, has an interesting Church (i2r'14th
cent) and several quaint houses.
57 M. Ussac. WecrosstheCorr^e and join the following railway,
then that from P^rigueuz (p. 250). — 61 Vs ^* BHve, see below.
b. Vii 8t Trieix.
61Vs X- Railway in ^U-Z^/% bra. (farea aa above).
Limoges, see p. 36. ^ This line diverges to the left from the
preceding after crossing the Yienne (see p. 86). — 6Vt M. Beynae,
f2Vt M. Nexon (3079 inhab.), with a church of the l2th and
i5th cent., and a chateau in the style of the 16th century. Line to
P^rigueux, see p. 39.
26 M. St. Yrieix (Bdt. dts Voyageurs; du Faisan), a town of
B467 inhab. , where the first French quarries of kaolin or porcelain
chy were discovered in 1765, possesses an interesting church of
the 12- 13th cent., with a single nave and three choirs. Tramway
to P^rigueux, see p. 41.
diVz M. Cau8$ac'Bonneval, with a chiteau of the 15*16tb cent.,
to the left; 35 M. St. Julien-U'Vendomois. — 42 M. Pompadour
(Hftt Yitaud), with a chatei^ presented by Louis XY., with the title
of Marquise, to his mistress, Antoinette Poisson (1721-64). The iVia-
iUmcU Stud Farm here is one of the most important in Europe. —
^en , after three viaducts , the line descends, crossing several af-
fluents of the V^zere, to(48V2M.) VignoU-St-Solve. At (56 M.) Le
Burg we join the line from Thiviers (p. 39). Beyond (58 M.) Varet^
^e cross the V/zlre and its tributary the Corrkze,
OlVsM. Brrw(*Buf^; H4tel de Bordeaux; de ToulouM^ an
uusienttown with 18,111 inhab., where Gundebald was proclaimed
King of Aq«itania in 585, was the birthplace of Cardinal Dubois
1666-1723) and.Marshal Brune (1763-1815) and has a stotue of the
latter. The chief local trade is in truffles. In; the middle of t^e
town stands tUe Romanesque and Gotbie church of St. Martin (11»
12th cent.), recently restored. The little Musee^ in the Rua du
Docteur Mass^Q* 9 is open (m Thvf s. aod Suu. (t-4 p.iii.)«
88 I. RtmH 13, NOAILli&S. From Limogu
AVout s/4 K- to the 8. of the towm are four Brom 0kai^tU l^il|trim»s«-
resort), beside a FraneiseaD Monaftety founded in 1226 by St, Anthony
of Padua. — The Orottos of Lamouroux, 3 M. farther on, were formerly
inhabited.
Tfott Brire to TUlle^ CUrmmt'F4rrxutd^ etc., see B.^b, III; to TkitU^i
see p. 38; io Pirigu^ux {Bfiemix)^ «ee:p. 960.
FrohBiivbto AuiiLfcao, 65 M., railway imiS-SV^hra. (fares ilfr. 85
7fr. 95, 5fr. 15 c). >- From Briye.to (ITI/aH.) St. Dem^prH-MartA^ aee
p. 93. Beyond St, Denis the route aseends the valley of the l)ordogne
and then the interesting Vduey of the Cire. >- 29i/2 M. F<l^«c. Beyond
<33t/9 M.) Puybrim we erosa tfa« I>(»dofne. On the rieht appeavfl the
chateau of Castelnau (see below)., — 29 M. Breienoux (Hoi. de la Gare),
a village, at one time fortified, on the left bank of the G^re. llie *CAd-
ietru of Oaitelnau (12 - 16th cent.) is a pietiiresque ruin on a st^tep rock,
I8/4 M. to the S.W., commanding a fine view. The village Churdt^ dat-
ing from the 16th cent., eontain^ stalls and an allkar-ipiecd of thai period.
— From Bretenoux station diligences ply to St. Cir'e and to Beaulieu.
Btj 04r4 (Botet Orltdc), a small town , 6 M. to the 8.S., dominated by the
ruined Tours de 8t. Laurent (12th and i4th eent.), was the birthplaee of
AfftrsfMl. Canrobert (18QB-95), to whom a statue has been erected. — Beaa-
lieu (U6t: de Bordeaux) , a little town on the right bank of the Dordogne,
31/q M. to the X. of BretenoilJE , with a fine Romanesque ^Chureh of the
ll-l3th centuries. Thence an interesting expedition may be made into
the desolate upper valley of^tbe Dordogne, which winds at the bottom
of a deep ravine between wooded rocky heights.
The valley of the Gire, here more t)ian 1300 ft. above the sea - le^eV,
now bebomes highly picturesque. -^ 83 ■. Pori-de-Ga^me ;• 9^f% M. La-
val'de-Ctre: Then six tunnels and a bridge over the C^re. — Benrnd
(411/a II. ) Lamativie the valley becomes a wooded rocky gorge , 9o0 ft-
deep, in which the railway passes through 17 tunnels in rapid succession-
Views to the left. — 51 M. La Boquebrou (H^. iLieu), a small shoe-
making town on the right bank, has a ruined castle and a Oothia church.
A narrow-gauge line is to be constructed henee to Limoges (p. 86), via
Tulle (p. 249). The valley now expands. The line recrosses to the right
bank by means of a viaduct 80 ft. in iieight , and gradually ^uits the
fiver^ 56 H. Miicate is the ^onetion for the line &om Aurillaa tm MMt-
lu(on via Eygurande (p. 349). In the distance, to the left, appear t^«
mountains of Auvergne. Then the view opens on the right. ' A viaduct,
110 ft. in height, is crossed. 56 M. Viescamp-i^ue-JdUhi ; 60 X. tlrmc.
-* 66 M. Jkwrinac^ see p. 356.
. n. From Briye tD ITonldiure.
a« Yii Cahora and Xontauban.
133 tf . Bailwat in 8I/9-7 brs. (fares 24 fr. 20, 16 fr. 35, 10 fr. 70 e.)- -
The Railway to TovUnue vid Cahon and JIfontauban , built in 1880-91
at the cost of about o3,000{. per mile, is interesting for engineers, es-
pecially neat Souillae (p. 89). The country traversed is not very fertile
and is scantily wooded with chestnuts { it has no considerabLi elttT»Uoiis.
On quitting Bri ve the line to Cahoi^ a8eend# towttfds the Cctuue de
Martd Cctusse', see p. 260), between the Oolrreze atad the Dordogne.
Severtil tunnels (the first 1150 yds. long) and viadueti mre traTersed.
— 5 M. Noailltn (6dd ft.), to the left, hi&s giiren Hs i^ame to a well*
known noble family. Fine view to the left. Before ahd efter (8 H.^l
Chasttaux tunnels are trayers'ed. The railway soon quits the basim
of the Oorr^Ke, and descends rapidly towards the Dordogne. Tunnels
and yiaducte fOUow eaoh otlttir in rapid sueeession. The last viadncl
to TouUmte. GOURDON. /. MomU 18. 89
is aLbo used by the nilway to St. Denis -pris-Martel , wUek joins
ours on the left. Fine Tiew of the ralley of the Dordogne.
23 M. SouiUac (410 ft. ; Hon d*Or), a manufacturing town with
tanneries and 3069inhab., lies %M. to the left of the railway. Near
tlie end of the main street is an ancient ruined church, and behind
it a handsome ParUh Ckureh, formerly belonging to an abbey. The
building is in the Romanesque -Byzantine style of the 12th cent.,
with domes and transept , and has semicircular apses In the in-
terior, beside the main portal, is a fine bas-relief, and there are
some paintings on the vaults of the choir and transept.
To L« BuiMMom and St. D^nh-prh-MarUl^ see p. S3.
Two curved viadticts and a tunnel follow; Tlew to the left. —
At C26 M.) Caitoulh (330 ft.) the line to Le Buisson diverges (p. 83),
and soon afterwards we cross the Dordogne and begin to re-ascend.
~ 30 M. Lamothe-F^ntlan (472 ft.) recalls the famous PMgord
family, better known tinder the single name F^nelon. Archbishop
F^nelon was, however, born at Lamothe - Salignac. — Tunnel,
700 yds. long. — 33VtM. ffotat (570 ft.).
36Vt M. Oourdon (690 ft.; Hdtel del' Ecu -de -France; de la
Protid&nce), with 4452 inhab., is situated to the right, on a hill
eommanding a line view. The town is dominated by the Church of
St. Pierre (14-i5th cent.), with twoAV. towers. Another church dates
from the 13th cent*; and the chapel of Notre-Dame-du-MaJou is a
pilgrim-resort, fiemalns of fortifications, an ancient gate, etc., may
be seen. — Branch to Sarlat (p. 83) under construction (16 M.).
Beyond a tunnel and a long and deep cutting lined with ma-
wnry, we begin to descend , hut beyond (41 M.) 8t Clair (555 ft.)
weie-aseend. The Ttmnel de Marot (1130 yds. long), before the
Bext station, presented considerable difflculties in construction, as
beds of quicksand were found here. The same also occurred in
two tunnels immediately beyond (44V| M.) D^^agnoc (740 ft.). —
At (47 Vt M.) Th^diTikt'PeyriUee the railway reaches Its highest
point (1570 ft.), before passing ftro«i the basin of the Dordogne into
that of the Lot, an affluent of the Garonne. The Tufme^ dt Roquee
(1 M. long) is the longest on the line, and also offered considerable
difficulty in conetmclion. It is followed by a deep cutting with
massiye retaining-walls, the sloping sides of which are 180 ft. high.
-Beyond (52YfM.) St. J>enU'CatU8 (685ft.) are a tunnel and
naduct. — 56 V« M. E$pere. Farther on, to the right, is the fine
iSth.cent. Chdteau de Mereuh, belonging to the bishopric of Gahors.
A final tunnel now admits us to the- valley of the Lot, which flews
on the right. On that side also is the Monsempron'^Libos railway,
to which the line flrom Biive descends , traversing a etone embank-
meat, i/^ M. long, with 33 arches more than 50 ft. high. We now
cross some old fortifications and enter —
62 M. Cahore (S90 ft. ; Buffet). Continuation of the railway to
TouiMise, see p. 92.
90 L Baut4 IB. GAH0B8. From lAmoget
(Whon. — HoMb. Dm Ahbamadbuks (PI. a^ B^S), Bool. Oambetu^
*DB l'Euhopb (PI4 b$ B, 8), Bue du Lye^e. — €ttf4t in tbe Boul. OlunbetU. —
P09t A Telegraph Office (PI. B> 3), Rue du .Lye^e, near the Uospiee.
Cahors, a town of 14,502 inhab. and formerly more impor-
tant, was the old capital of the. country of the Carduci and after-
wards of Quercy, and it is now the chief ^own of the department
of the Lot. It was occupied for a time by the English and taken hy
Ueiiri IV, when King of Navarre. Xt formerly possessed a uniyer-
slty founded by Pope John XXII. (Jacques d'Euse, 1244-13)34), who
was a native of the towu. Clement Marot (1495 - 1544) and L^on
Gambetta (1838-1882) were also born here.
Oahors is picturesquely situated on a peninsula on the right
bank of the Lot, its £. side being adorned with ruins and ancient
monuments, which lend it much interest.
The station is in the new Quartier des Hortes (^Hortvs', garden),
where some fioman remains have been found , including a tkeatre
dually destroyed in 1851. We follow the Avenue de la Gare to the
right, and then the Rue du Lyc^e, which leads to the left to the town.
The *Poikt VideAtrA (PI. A, 3), to the right of this j^int, at the be-
ginning of the Rue .du lye^e, is a remarkable inonumeni of the 14th eent.,
with three towers,' the two at the ends bMng maehieolated. By means
of gates, a barbieam on the left bank^ eie., it wm converted into a atrong
fortifieation. It was restored in the l9th century.
On the opposite bank are steep rocks. Beneath a rock about 300
paces to the left, behind a mill, is the Fontaitie dea OhartMux, a limpid
spring , from which was derived the Roman name of the town , JHvona
(^holy -fountain'). The water^ when abundant, flows through three basins
connected by cascades, and is finally conducted into the Lot. This sprUg
supplies Gahors with drinking- water ; n^r the bridge is the reservoir.
On the right in the Rue du Lyc^, beyond the house (Now 9) in
which Gambetta was born (1838), stands the Lto^ Gamssvta (PI.
B, 3), formerly a convent of the Cordeliers (Franeiscans) and a Jesuits'
college. The building, which has an elegant brick tower (17th ceot.),
also contains the Mu^ieipcU Library (18,000 vols.).
The Boulevard Oambetta, a little farther on, marks the \9.
limit of the old town, as the Lot, parallel with it, marks the K.
limit. In front Is the H6tel de Ville (PI. B, 3) , containing a small
Mus^e of art, archieology, and natural history (open onSun.'and
holidays firom 2 to 4, and to strangers on other days also).
Descending the Boul. Gambetta, we pass, on the right, the
'^Moniunent of (Hmbstta (PI. 7 ; B, 3), a large work by Falguihre, with
a bronze statue of the dictator. Behind are a small square, with a
Fountain adorned with a statue of Neptune, and the AllSet FenH&n,
with a Bu9t of Fetielon (p. 89) , who studied at the university of
Gahors. — The boulevard ends at the Pont Louii-PhUippe (PI.
B, C,4,5), built below a Roman bridge, the last remains of which
lingered until 1868. On the opposite bank , in thi suburb of St.
Georges, is a Statue of the Virgin ^ by Pradier.
The old town is poorly built, but contains sonke pioCnTosque
corners and quaint old Iloutes ; e. g. in the Quartier die Bad^mt*
attip "
}<
to ToiiUmte. CAHOBS. /. BattiB 13. 91
('Pl.0,4), liear the Pont Louis-Philippe. ^ At the £. end of the
Rue F^nelon is the Church of St. Ureiase (PI. G, 3), of the i2«ldth
centuries. The Rue F^nelon runs near the market-place, where also
the Rue de rH6tel-'de«V]ile debouches.
The Calhtfdral (PL G, 3) , to the right, belongs, like those of P^-
rigueux and Angouleme , to the Bomanesque-Byzantine period, and
bastwo domes. 'It dates from the end of the ilth cent., but has
been much altered , the choir and some of the chapels having been
in great part rebuilt in the 14-15th centuries. The N, Portal, on the
left, unfortunately much dilapidated, is the most interesting part
of the exterior ; the tympanum contains fine sculptures. The most
notable features of the interior , to which we descend by ten steps,
are the paintings of the chapel on the right of the choir , and some
restored paintiiigs of the 14th century. On the right or S. side of
the nave are remains of Gothic Ctoi8ter8 of the 15tb century.
The building to the N. of the cathedral-portal is the old bishops*
palace, now the Prefecture. The Street between the two descends
to the quay , passing a small square with the Monument of Marot
(PI. 6; G,3), in the Renaissance style, erected in 1892. The bust of
the poet is by Turcan ; the ba»-relief by Puech. The adjacent Pont-
J>(euf{Vl. 0, 3), of the 13th cent., was so called in contrast to the old
Roman bridge (see p. 90). — In the suburb of Gabessut, on the
opposite bank, is the fine riiined Gothic choir of a church (PL G,3;
14th cent.) which belonged to* a- Dominican or Jacobin Gonyent,
destroyed in 1580 by the Huguenot troops of Henri of Navarre.
On the right bank, above the Pont Neuf, are the curious remains
of the ColUge P^egri (PI. 2; G,2), dating f^om the 14th cent., with
an octagonal tower. Not far from this spot rises the square tower of
the former Chdteau du B&i (PLC, 2; also 14th cent.), now used as
a prison ; farther off is the Tour de la Barre (see below).
The Rue P^legri, or the curious but dirty lane called Rue du
Four-Ste-Gatherine, beside the GoUege, leads hence to the Rue du
Chateau, whieh, like the following streets , contains some curious
old houses. At the end are the Church of St, Barthelemy (PL G, 2)
and, on the left, the remains of the Palace of John XXII., of
the 14th cent., wi^ a large square tower. In the Place Lafayette
(PL C, 1,2), behind the church, is a War Monument for 1870-71,
with sculptures by G. A. Galmon.
The Rv. \|\^ Batre leads hence to the Barbaea/ne, a guard-house
(i5th cent.), 'bet». 'ofty To^n vb la Bab&s or Tour dea Pendus
(PL B, O, 1) , which X., on a sharp-pointed rock near the Let, and
is open on the^ side next thd town. Since the 13th cent, pahors has
possessed Ramparts, shutting off the peninsula, and still intact but
for the opening made for the railway. Near the Barbacahe is the
handsome Porte St. Michel (PL B, 1), now serving as the entrance
to the cemetery. The massive tower a little farther on is used as a
powder-magazine.
92 J. Route 13, TUBSNNE. Frmn Umogu
The Rue Ste. Chiire, on this dide of the ccfmetery, leads back to
the Hace Thiers, skirting the barrack-'WaU. In an enolosiure on the
right is a OcUeway of Roman baths, known as th^ Porte de Diane.
Following the Boul. Gambetta to the Hdtel de Yille, we pass the
new CoUige for QwU and the Palais de Juttifte (P1.R, 2). The Rue
du S^minaire, » little beyond the Palais, and the Rue des Cad^rques,
on this side of tiie College , lead direct to the station , passing the
Grand S^^minaire.
Railway from Cahors to Tonnein* (Bordeaxx), see p. 68; to Capdenac^
see p. 94.
CojfTINVATAOM Or THE RaIL WA.T TO Moi^TA^UBAN AND ToUliOUSB. —
Beyond Cahors the line passes near the Pout Valentr^ (p. 90) , on
the right, crosses the Lot, and leaves the line to Capdenac on the
left. We traverse a long curved viaduct. , — 65 M. Sept - Pontt.
Rock > cuttings; lofty viaduct; tunnel. — 77 Ve ^' Montpezai, an
ancient little town, fully 3 M. to the S.W. (diligence), with a i3th
centi church, rich in works of art of the 14- 16th centuries. Beyond
a tunnel and a large viaduct we reach (84 M.) , Borredon*
87 M. Oaosiflde (Hdtel du Cotnmerce, etc.), to the left, a town of
4051inhab., one of the fortresses of the Huguenots. Fine 14th cent,
spire.
90VtM. R^alMllt. We cro8» the Ave^on. — 93VtM. Alhia$;
97 M. FoniMuve. To the left is the railway to Lexos. We cross the
Tarn and join, on the right, the railway to Bordeaut»
101 M. Montauban (Gare du Midi ; see p. 72). Hence to (132 M.)
TouUmse, see p. 73.
b. Vift Oapdenae.
1541/a M. Railway in 5Vd-8 hrs. (same fates as at p. 38). — The trair-
eller should traverse the part of the lii^e between Brive and Lexoe by day.
Beyond Brive (p. 87), where the most interesting and pictHresque
part of the route begins , the train passes through 4wo tunnelfl ; the
second (1550 yards long) , th« Montplaitir. Tunnel y is the longest
on the Orleans Railway system. — Ait a distance, first on the left
and then on the right , are tiie ruins of the Chiteau de Tureiine
(see below).
10 M. Turenne, 1 Vz M . to the S.W. of th6 small and auoient town
of that name. Thia was the capital of the 'vioomt^* from which
the celebrated Marshal Turenne (1611-75) took his tide. The niins
of his CKdteau consist of two imposing towers situated on high
and precipitous rocks ; the older of the two (13th cent.) is round,
the other (14th cent.) is square.
13 M. Quatre-Routes, Farther on , to the left, is the plateau on
which stands the village of Puy - d' laeolud, the probable site of the
Celtic town of VxtUodunum ^ taken by CaBsar B.C. 50 (sea also
pp. 87, 94).
t9T4mlou9e, ROCAMADOUR. L B&uiM 13. 98
17 Vs M. St. ]>eiiii«prli-][Brtel (390 ft.; B^ff9t; Hot. Vayiiare,
at the station, moderate), a small town on the Dordo§fU.
From St. Deiiia to Aurillae^ see p. 86; to X« Buiison yii Sortof, see
p. 84.
We now reach the *Cirque de Montvalent, part of the pictur-
esque valley of tlie Dordogne. The line crosses the river and ascends
the left side of the winding valley, overhung by rocks more than
600 ft. high. The Bulsson line (p. 84) runs on the other side.
Beyond {2*1 JA.) Montvalent, we reach the CatAsse de Qramat, the
rocky and barren plateau which separates the valley of the Dordogne
from that of the G^l^.
The Cause de Gramat is one of the most interesting plateanx in
France, ftrom the point of view of hydrology. It eontalns namerous
^gouffres* or natural wetU, wkleh collect the rainfaU and diiMharge it by
means of subterranean channel, which eventually return to the surface
and form the bednnings of rivers. The most Important of these wells
ii the Oouffre de Padirae (adm. 10 fr. ; 5 fr. each two or more), i30 ft. in
diamatev and W ft. deep, which Ilea aboqt 7 M. to the N.S. of the station
of Roeamadour (see beJowX
28V« M. Eoeamadour. The village lies 2Vt M. to the S. W.
(omnibus V» ff*) to the castle Ifr.).
Koearaadoiir C*if<)<. Ste. Marie; Orand-Soleilt well spoken of; Notre- Dame;
Hon d'Or)^ romantically situated in a ravine, bounded by rocky walls 400 ft.
high, to Which the houses eling, is one of the most ancient pilgrim -resorts
ill France, eapeeially frequented in medittval times. Abov« the bouses
are the church and chapels, and still higher is an ancient castle. The
oame is derived from St. Amadour , a hermit who is said to have lived
here in the 1st cent., and is identified with Zacchseus, the Publican.
Ta reach the ehuroh from the lowev town yre climb two steep flights
of stairs , with 14^ and $1 «tep« rMpectively , and another of 75 steps
leads thence to the Chapel of the Virgin.
The Ckureh^ an early Gothic building, consists of two parts, the par-
ochial cbureh, or -St. Sanveur, and the eubteiranean churchy Ofp Chapel
of St. Amadoujr. The farmer has two aisles without transepts^ the high-
altar standi in the middle of the apse, with a chapel on each side. Tht
walls are entirely covered with paintings , portraits , and inscriptions,
commemorating iUustrloua pilgrims, lemons them St. Louis, Charles IV.,
Louis XI., and other kings of France. The Chapel of St. Amadour is
smaller than the church above it, but is adorned in the same fashion.
The GhapH cf the Virgin dates only from the i5th cent, and was partly
rebuilt in the i9th century. Its internal decoration is very rich. The
modem stained-giass windows ar« by lli^venot. On the altar is a small
blaek image of the Virgin, of wood, ascribed to Zacchieus.
There are three other chapels to the right as we aseend. — Opposite
the entrance of that of the Virgin are some ancient mural paintings and
> hoge sword fixed to the wall. This sword is said to be an imitation
of R^and*s famous ^Ihirandar, which according to tradition was vowed
by tbePaladia to the Virgin, brought here after his deaA, and stolen in
toe 19th century.
The OoMItf, which stands much higher up, was built in the middle ages
to defiend tlie shrinee , and baa been partly reconstructed. It now serves
^B a elergy-hoase. Fine view ftt)m the wall and the old tower.
A varfety of interestiBg excursions may foe made from fioeamadour:
to the numerous ^gouffres* in the vicinity, to several waterCaila^ etc.*
33^/t M. Ommatf (H5t de i'Europe; d» BotdeaujE), vitb 2996
^^Ab., lies abotut 7 M. from the Gouffre de Padirae (see above). —
^4M. AMicr has an iatefesting church and the ranains <^a i6tk
94 LBimUlS. GAFDENAC. From LkMge^
cent, chite&u. Beyond (48 M.) Le Powtnel we desaend by two tun-
nels and a viaduct into the valley of the CM, a tcibutary of the Lot.
56 M. Figeac (Hotel des Ambassadeurs, near the market-place ;
H. des yoyageurs, All^e des Platanea), an old town of 6310inhab. on
the right bank of the 0^1^, possesses some interesting 13-14th cent,
houses. The Avenue Gambetta leads from the station to the princi-
pal bridge and to the Rue Gambetta, which ends at the Place GamoL
To the right of the bridge is an Gfbelisk to the memory of Champol-
liorij the Egyptologist, a native of the town (1790-1^2).
The Church of St. Sauveur (ll-15th cent.) has a transept with a
central tower surmounted by a clumsy dome, and a modern W. tower.
Inside are two fine Corinthian capitals supporting holy-water basins,
the fonts, in the first chapel on the right, and, on the •same side, a
large low chapel of the 13th cent., with aisles, ^nd containing some
fine bas-reliefs in wood.
In a narrow street on the left, at the beginning of the Ru« Gam-
betta, is the PrUon (14th cent.), formerly the Palais de Justice.
Notre- Dame -du-Puy, in the highest part of the town, beside
the college, is a church of the l^-litb cent, also with a modern
steeple. There is no transept, but the aisles ei^tend all the "way
round. Its chief attraction is a large and magnificent wooden * Altar
Scretn, of the latter part of the 17th eent. , in perfect preservation
and enclosing two pictures and two statues. '
From Kigeae to Aurillae, etc., see R. 97. . .
We now pass through two tunnels, the first 1350 yds. long, into
the beautiful valley of the Lot. On the right is the line to Gahors
(see below). Beyond another tunnel we cross the river.
59 M. Cspdenae {Buffet- Hdtel, R. 2 f^. ; Hdtel Raynal, near the
station). The town (1037 inhab.), which lies 2 M. to the W., on a steep
eminence on the right bank of the Lot^ is another claimant to be the
Roman Uxellodunum (pp. 87, 92). In any case it was an important
place in the middle ages, and It still has remains of fortifications,
pointed gateways, a keep, ete. Onm. to Eoeamadonr (p. 93), 75 c.
From Capdenae to Rodet and Bititrt^ lee B. 16 ^ to AuriUme^ Me VLSI.
From Gapdbmag to Gahorb^ 44 M.^ railway in 3-3i/s hn. (fares 8 fr. 6.
5 fr. 45, S fr. 65 e.). This line descends the iBteresting valley of the Lot,
at first on the right bank , at the focet of Lofty joointed eiilfs. Tuuiels,
cuttings, and bridges are numerous on this liue. — 6V9 H. Toirac. — ISl/a M.
Cafare, a small town to the tight, with a ruined chateau. — 30M. Cml-
vignae. To the right, farther on, the large CMUmu dt C4nevUreM <i9th,
15tk, and 16th eant.), on a cliff above the Lot. — aS^/a M. St. Cirq-U-
Popit^ very picturesquely situated on the left bank of the river, with a
ruined castle (13th cent.) and a fine 16th eent. church. Knmerous tiiiwels
and several small stations are passed. -^ 49 M. Cabe$$ut is an E. svborb
of Gahors, on the left bank of the Lot. Fine view on the right of (3ahors,
which both railway and river now skirt. We cross the Lot, with a view
of the Pont Valentre (p. 90) to the left. — 44 X. Cahors, see p. 80.
Beyond Capdenae the railway ascends considerably, traversing
several small tunnels and viaducts and aflfotding a succession of
fine views. Three small itatioos. We now eross the Avtyron,
to TouUu9e. NAJAC. /. RmtU 13* 96
W/t^' YUlefnuidie-da-Sraerynd (Hotel du (hand Soleil;
Notre -Dame)^ a commercial town with 8426 inhab., was a rich and
important plac« in the middle ages, when it distinguished itself in
the wars with England. In the 16th cent, it was noted for its devo-
tion to Protestantism. Three times in the 15'17th cent, it was rav-
aged by the plague, and in 1643 it became the centre of the insurrec-
tion of the Oroquants, or peasants who revolted against the exactions
of the Intendants. The chief sights of the town are the Church of
Sotre-Dame (13- 16th cent.), to the right on the way fVom the
station, and an old CarthUBian Convent, on the left bank, converted
into a hospital , with pretty cloisters in the florid Gothic style.
The line next skirts the Aveyron, sometimes on one bank, some-
times on the other. At (84 M.) Monteils the valley becomes highly
pictaresque, forming a rocky and wooded gorge in which no less
than nine bridges and nine tunnels are passed. Then, to the right,
we obtain a magnificent view of Najac and its castle. «
88 M. HaJM (Hdt, du Midi), a small town of 1771 inhab. an a
height, with a ^Castle, the remains of which are very striking as
seen f^om the valley. Founded in Ili6 12th cent. , the castle was
rebuilt in the middle of the 13th. It stands on a bold cliff, washed
on three sides by the Aveyron, commanding the valley. It was sold
at the Revolution for 12 fir. and has since been partly demolished
to supply building materials. To inspect the interior^ apply at the
hotel. The chief part is tbe keep, which is 100 ft. in height. —
The interesting Chureh of Najac dates from the 13th century.
Becrossing the Aveyron and pft'Saing under the town by a tun-
nel, we obtain anot)iet very striking view of the castle on the left.
Three more tunnels and three bridges are th^i traversed. At (94 M.)
Lagu^jde, the ruins of a 16th cent ch&teau are saen to the left.
Beyond it the valley expands. — 100 M. Lezoa (Buffet).
PsoM Laxo0 TO XoMTApBA.]! , .41V2 ^"t railway in IV4 hr. (fares
7 fr. 50, 5 fr. 6, 3 fr. 90 c). The line follows the rocky and picturesque
valley of the Aveyron, erossing the river several times. — 8 M. 8t. Antoain
(Hdt€l A»owh , an ameienl town with 4033 inhab. , ha« a eurious B6iel de
Vau of the 12th eent. and a handsome modern Gothie Ohurch. The Aveyron
is here spanned by' an ancient Gothic bridge. — There are ancient cha-
teaux at (16 M.) Penne, (SOIA M.) Hrwniquel, and (^ M.) ii(mtrie<mx. The
train qoiu the Aveyron. afil/s M . MgrepeUue^ a small town on the left bank
of the Aveyron, devoted to Prote^Muitism in the Aeligious Wars, was
lacked by Louis XIII. in 1633. — 38 M. Uontauban-VilU-youvelle. The Tam
18 crossed. 4il/s M. ifontmiban'rilU-Baurbon (see p. 72).
Our route now ascends the valley of an affluent of the Aveyron.
106 M. Vindra^. In the distance to the left is the town of Cordes.
Fboii Vivdsaoto CofeDfes, 8i/a X., diligenee in 50 minutes. Vlndrae bein|;
^^rved by a few slow trains only, time may be saved by taking a private
conveyance from Lexos to (hordes (7 fr.). — Ck)rdes appears more and more
pictaresque as we approach tt. Below it, at the foot of thft hill, is the
village of Let CtAaruB (hotel), whenee we may aa^ and dfreet on foot. By the
road, which winds round the^ N.. side Of the .faUl (to the left), the distance
IS nearly a mjle. — Cordea (Hotel ^ near the church), with i860 inhab.,
perched on an isolated hill, is an aneient and highly interesting town,
the geneval look of whieh takes us ba«k to the middle ages. It still
96 /. ROfUe 13. . ALBI: From tdm^a
reUlna its rMspftrtA of Ue Ifttb <«a«t anA MVfWitl Atw .1io««e8 qf the
lS-14th eenturiea. The stroet leading from the principal gate (wbere the
omn. stops) to the right passes the liaisons du Orana-Eeuper^ du Qrand-
F«n«t«r, du Oramd-Faucotmier^ and other inieresttng medkiyal hoii«M,
with Gotbie windows. The third, rf stored and eoftverted into tbe Qdtel de
Ville, is specially remarlcable for its trefoil and rose windows. The
Chureh^ in the second of the streets which intersect the town from W.
to £., aleo dates f^om the i3-i4th century. It has a fine nave »Bd is deco>
rated with polychrome painting and mc^ern stained gU^. The ramparts
command a fine view of the valley of the C^ron.
We cross two viaducts and pass through a tunnel 1040 yds.
long. Beyond (112 M. ) Donnazac ^here is a high viaduct over the
Vere, affording a pretty view. 115 M. Cahuzac, followed by a tunnel
780 yds. long. On the right bank are two chateaux of the 15-1 6th
cent., and on the left bank is another, -r 1 17M.. Tessonnierea (Buffet).
Continuation of the railway to Toulouse, see p. 98.
Fbom Tessonni&bbs to Albi, lOVt ^'1 railway in Vt ^'* (f^rea
1 fr. 90, 1 tt, 30, 85 c).
This line enters the valley of the Tarn and crosses that stream.
5M. Afarsac. To the left is the villf^e of Cattelnau -de -Levis,
dominated by a 13th cent, tower, 160 ft. high. Farther on, also on
the left, we see the imposing cathedral Qf Albi.
10 Vs ^* ^l»i* -^ SUtions. The Oar« d^^MstM, on the W., is eon-
nected with the Oare du Midi^ on the N., by a loop-line erosaing tha
river. — Hotels. Or. Hdr. Cassagvb, Place du Vigan, R. 2y% fr. , omn.
60 c; Gb. H6t. db la Posts, in the Lices, R. a-jP/si d^j. S^/a, I>. 8,
pens. 8Vs fr* S i>v. NoRi^ near the cathedral. -^ Oak, W c. per dmve.
Albi, an ancient town with 21,490 inhab.^ the capital of the de>
partment of the Tarn, and the seat of a bishopric, lies on the left
bank of the Tarn, and gave its name to the famous seot of the Albi*
genses and to the war which deluged the South of France with blood
from 1209 to 1229.
From the Oare d'Orl^ans we enter the town by the Avenue de la
Gare and the Avenue Lap^rouse, to the left, leaving the Pare Roche-
gttde (p. 97) on the right. The latter avenue ends at the Plaee
Lap^rouse, in which stands a bronze Statut of Lap4rou8t (1741-88^
the famous but unfortunate navigator ^ who was a native of Albi.
— To the left of this Place is the FaUd% de JuUiM, with ancient
cloisters. We follow the street to the left, on this side of the Palais
de Justice, to the —
*Catbsdbal of St. CboiiiIa., built between 1277 and 1512, and
one of the finest and most remarkable churches in the S. of France.
Its peculiar character is due to the fact that it was constructed
with the view of serving as a fortress as well as a church, and to its
being entirely of brick, with the exception of the porch. The works
which defended the approaches have disappeared as well as the
machicolations of the huge W. tower, butthe latter, which la destitute
of a spire and has no external openings in its lower part, 'still looks
like a keep. The style of the ehurch is Gothic, but Ito plaik is Bo*
to Toulmne, ALBI. /. R<mU 13. 97
manegqae. It has a single nave, without aisles or transept, and
two choirs. The exterior is very plain , the bare walls , 125 ft. in
height, having neither turrets nor sculptures. The *8. Porch, how-
ever, which is the principal entrance, is a magnificent structure
of the i5th cent, approached by a double flight of steps and form-
ing a kind of canopy with four arches, surmounted by rich open-
work carving.
Iktbbior. After the general heaviness of the exterior, the interior of
I the church affords an agreeable sarprise. The **Bood Screen is a marvel of
! Idth eeot. sealpture, eonsidered to be almost without a rival. Its delieate
I iaee-like forms are all the more remarkable from the fact that the stone of
which it is made is hard and brittle. The ornamentation also ineludes
statues under beautiful eanopies, graceful pinnacles, etc. The AnAuktU>rp^ or
CMtter surrounding the choir, is scarcely inferior in richness and beauty ; its
[exterior is decorated with 72 exquisite statuettes of angels and with statues
of prophets and other Bible characters. Above the doors are Constantine
Und Charlemagne, and inside are the Apostles. Both these splendid works
[were executed between 1473 and idOQ , under the direction of a bishop
KLouis I.) of the family of Amboise , who was noted for his love of art
Ettd good taste, while it was his nepliew and successor (1002-10), who em-
[ployed Italian artists to paint the scenes from the Bible which adorn
ie Ttalting. The style of these paintings , however , is not quite in
keeping with that of the building and the sculptures. The sadly damaged
l^aintings in the second choir, representing the Last Judgment, date from
he Uth cent., while some of the chapels contain others of the 15th cen-
vry. The chapelfi, 28 in number, are inserted between the buttresses
Y the church in two stages. The pulpit, in stucco and marble^ was made
Italians in 1776; the organ in 1796. In the chapel of the apse is a
le modem statue of the Virgin.
The Arckiepiscopal PcUace, to the N. E. of the cathedral, by the
i^erside , is a vast building of the 14th cent. , in the form of a
lortifled castle with a keep. Higher up are an Old Bridge (13- 14th
[tent.) and a modern bridge at the end of the Lices (see below).
The Rue Maries, behind the E. end of the cathedral, leads to the
fright to the Chwrck of St, Salvi, dating mainly from the 15- 16th
fcent. , but standing on foundations of an earlier period. It has a
tower of the 13th cent. , over the N. transept , and a Romanesque
tloister on the S. side , visible from the interiof .
Following the same street farther, we reach the Prefecture;
thence the street to the left leads to the Lices, and the Rue Timbal,
to the right, with two Renaissance houses, to the Place du Vigan.
The Ldces form a boulevard descending to the left to the Tarn,
passing the Lyee'e (on the left) atnd the Post Office , and ascending
to the right to the allies beginning at the Place Lap^rouse.
In the auburb of La Kadblbikb, on the opposite bank of the river,
l^re the Church of La Madeleine (paintings) , near the Old Bridge , and
<>eyond it, the Gore du Midi^ for the line to Carmaux (p, 107).
The PlcLce du Vigan, skirted by the Liees, forms the centre of
the town.
The Boulevard des Lices ends at the Place da Manege, near
^hich, to the left, is the modern Romanesque Church of St, Joseph.
The Avenue Gambetta, to the right, leads to the Pare de Rochegude,
embellished with a curious 16th cent. Fountain, with bas-reliefs
Baedeker. Southern France. 4th Edit. 7
98 /. Route 14. CASTELNAUDARY.
of the 12th century. In this park is a small Mu$ee belonging to
the town (adm. 2 to 4 or 5 p. m.).
Railway from Ocutres to Carmaux^ see p. 107. — Another line ia to be
eo^strueted between Albi and St. Ajfrique (p. 359).
CouTiNXJATioN OF RAILWAY TO TouLOusE. Beyoiid Tessouuieres
we follow the valley of the Tarn for some distance. — 122 M. Gaillac
{Hdt. du Commerce; de France), a town of 7527 inhab., is sitaated
on the right bank. The chief street leads to the Church of St, Pierre
(13-14th cent.) in the Place Thiers, embellished with an ancient
Fountain, and to the Church of St. Michel (also 13 -14th cent.).
Gaillac also contains some quaint old houses. — 121 M. LUle-
d'Albi, another little town to the left, has a 14th cent, church, with
a brick belfry in the Tolosan style. The line crosses the Tarn. —
131 Vz M. Babasteni (Edt. Pongis), a picturesque town with 4821
inhab. , on the right bank of the Tarn , possesses a Romanesque
and Gothic church decorated with frescoes of the 14- 15th cen-
turies. — We now cross the Agout,
136 M. St. Svlpice-du-Tam , with a church , showing a facade
of the 14th century. For the line to Montauban aud Oastres , see
p. 106. — Our line quits the valley of the Tarn and runs through a
tunnel. Beyond (142 M.) Oragnague, the Pyrenees, which in clear
weather have already been .visible, come prominently into view.
150 M. Montrahe. — I54V2M. Toulouse ( Oare Matahiau), see p. 73.
14. From Toulouse to Gette.
136 M. Bailway in 31/0-73/4 hrs. (fares 24 fr. 50, 16 fr. 65, 10 fr. 80 c.)*
To Carcassonne, 561/2*., In U/s-Sl/a hrs. (fares 10 fr. 20, 6 fr. 85, 4 fr-
50 c). The trains start from the Oare Ifatabiau.
Toulouse, see p. 73. — The line ascends the wide, fertile, and
well-cultivated valley of Lhera^ which is also traversed by the Canal
du Midi (p. 76). — 8 M. Escalguens; 12 M. Montlaur; 14 M.
Bazilge. The churches of (I6V1 ^0 Villenouvelle and (^Vs ^*
Villefranche^de- Laura^taia exhibit interesting features of the To-
losan style (15th and 14th cent.). — 25 M. Avignonet, another small
town with a 14th cent church. Beyond (28 M.) sifgcda we cross
the low watershed and begin the descent to the basin of the Medi-
terranean. -— 31 M. Maa-Saintes-Puelles. On the left the G^venne^
appear.
34 M. Castelnattdary (Buvette; Botel de France; Notre- Dame)
a town with 9720 inhab., situated to the left on a hill adjoining thi
Canal du Midi. It was burned and several times besieged in the Albi-
gensian wars, and was again burned by the Black Prince in 1355.
About 4 H. to the £. o£ Castelnattdary lies the lai^e village of 81
Papoult formerly the seat of a bUhop aqd still possessing a fine abbey^
church, part of which, including the cloisters, is in the tlomaneaqiie Btyl«
Prom Castrlkaudart to Cautrrs, 34 H., railway in about IVs ^* C^^
6 fr. 16, 4 fr. 15, 2 fr. 70 c.). The line skirts the town on the E.<, with tb
CARCASSONNE. /. Route U, 99
MontagiieHoire (p. 107) to the right. —About 2 H. to the S. E. of (16 M.)
Revel OLane^ H^otre Dame) is the BaMin de St. Ferr^ol, the most inomor-
(ant feeder of the Canal du Midi (p. 76). It is formed by a dam about 2600 ft.
long, SBOft. thick, and 100 ft. hlch. It hold« 1400 million gallons of water,
and when full hae an area of 166 aeres. — About 31/3 M. to the £. of
Revel (diligence, 60 c.) and 2Va l^t- to the N. £. of the basin, lies the
small town of 8«rt>e , long famous for its Benedictine abbey , converted
into a college in 168Q and acquired by the Dominieans in 1854. Father
Lacordaire (d. 1861), the famous preacher, is buried here, and a statue
(by Girardet) was erected to him in 1888. — 291/] X. La Cr^made^ where
we join the line to MontaubaA. — 34 M. C<Mfr««, see p. 106.
The Cette line continues to descend through a fertile and well
cultivated plain, traversed hy the Canal duMidl. — 39 M. Pexiora;
43 M. Bram Cbranch to BelvHe-Aude, 10 M.); 51*/? M. P/tens.
56V2 M. Csrcaisbniie. — Hotels, •bbrxard (pi. a ^ c, 2) , Rue du
larehe 27, B. 4, B. 1V4^ d^j. 81/2, D. 4, pens. 101/2, omn. 1 fr. ; Bovmbt
(PI. e; C, 2), Rue de la Hairie 41, B. 1, d«j. 8, D. dl/2^ pens. 9, omn. i/4 fr. \
*6t. J8A.K-BAPTI8TB (PI. b ; G, 1), Boul. du Jardin-des-Plantes, R. 9l/a, B. 1,
d^j.3, D. 4, pens. 10. omn. 1 fr. — Gbktral (Pl.e; D,2), Boul. de la
Prefecture 16, R. 3, B.'V4» d«j- 2Vai ^- 3^ ?«"«• ^ f'- '•> ^" Commbrce (PI. d \
CS), Rue du Port 14, R. Sfr., B. fiOc, def. 21/2, D. 3, pens. 71/a fr. — R«-
suturamt at the station. — Oafte. JuUen Not, Place Camot ; Orami Ca/i
Ambiguy Boul. de la Prefecture 16^ others in the Bo«U. Barbes and near
the station. — (ktfi-Conceri de VAlcazar, Rue Bclfort (PI. E, 1).
Cabs. With one horse, per drive >/«) per hr. li/a ''>'• 1 at night 11/4^
2fr.; with two horses 1, 2, 1 £r. 60 c, and 3 fr. For the Git^, carriage
and pair, 2Va fr* P*' hr.
Careasionnef the capital of the department of the Aude, and the
seat of a hishop, is a town with 29,298 inhah., situated on the river
Audt. It consists of the Lower Town, on the left bank, near the
railway, and the OU^y some way off, on a hill on the other bank.
The latter is one of the most interesting spots in Southern France.
Carcaso waa^in existence in the Roman period, but the importance of the
town began durj^g the three centuries ending with 713, when it was in the
possession of Ore Visigoths , and reached its climax in the 11 -13th cent.,
when it was rule^by a series of viscounts, the Trencavels. It suffered
greatly in the Albigensian war, when it was taken partly by a ruse and
partly through treachery. The viscounty was united to France in 1239,
like the rest of the territories to which the Hontforts had laid claim
after the crusade against the Albigenses. Garcassonne made a desperate
i>ut unavailing resistance , under the last of the Trencavels , to this ab-
sorption, and King Louis the Saint isolated the Cite and founded the Lower
J^n (1247). This latter was pillaged and burnt by the BUck Prince in
loDD. la 1560 many of the Huguenot inhabitants of CSarcassonne were
o^fisacred for having dragged a statue of the Virgin through the mire.
The LowKB To'WK , which is well built and regularly laid out,
is encircled hy green and shady boulevards. The Gothic Church of
S*- yineent (PI. C, 1; 14-1 6th cent.) has a massive unfinished tower,
from which M^chain and Delambre calculated the position of the
ntendian of Pi^is , which passes only 46 seconds to the W. This
church, like many others in the S., is remarkable for the width of
its n«ye. It ig lighted by rose^wiftdows above the chapels between
the pillars, and contains some fine stained glass.
Xkft PiACB Carkot (PI. C, 2) is planted with fine plane-trees
and eentains a marble Fotintain of the 18th cent, with a figure of
7*
100 /. Route U, CARCASSONNE. From Toulouit
Neptune , by Baratt'a. — The Cathedral of St. Michel (PI. C, 3) , a
Gothic church of the 13th cent. , seems to have served as a model
for St. Vincent's. There is no portal at the W. end , but the wail
is adorned with a fine rose * window. The church is entered from
the Rue Voltaire by a small doorway on the N. side.
Near the church passes the Boulevard Barbes, in which is a
bronze statue, by Falguiere^ of Barhes {iOOd-lO), the revolutionary,
with a musket curiously placed between his legs. To the E. is an
old gate, known as the Porte Barbes (PI. C, D, 3). At its E. ex-
tremity the boulevard passes the base of an old bastion , and as-
sumes the name of Boulevard du Mus^e. Farther on, to the right,
is the Square Qamhetta (PI. D, 2), the handsomest iu the town.
Near this point, in the Grande-Rue, is the Musee (P1.D,2), open
to the public on Sun. and Thurs. from 12 to 4. It contains chiefly
paintings. Here, too, is the Towv Library, containing 47,000
volumes.
The •Cit6, or Old Town of Carcassonne, is on the S. E. side of
the town (PL E, F,3,4). It is reached by crossing the Pont-Neuf over
the Aude, near the Square Gambetta, or the Pont-Vieui, a little
higher up, and traversing the suburb of La Barbacane. Anything
more curious or unique in appearance than this town of the Middle
Ages, with its double line of fortifications, furnished with fifty
round towers and dominated by a citadel, can hardly be imagined.
A good distant view of the finest part of it is obtained from the side
of the valley. The fortifications date back to the days of the Visi-
goths (5th cent.), but were frequently reconstructed or altered before
the 14th cent., and they were also restored in 1850-1879 by Viollet-
le-Duc, who considered them the most complete and the most formid-
able example in Europe of fortifications of the 6tb , i2th , and
13th centuries.
The outer line or enceinte is more than 1600 yds. in circum-
ference, the inner one 1200 yds. The whole of the N. part was built
by the Visigoths on the ruins of Roman fortifications, which are
still visible at several points. There are only two entrances , the
Porte de VAude, to the W., beyond the fortress, and the Porte Nar-
bonnaise, to the E. To visit the principal points of interest the
services of the custodian, who lives near the Porte de I'Aude, should
be secured. Specially noteworthy are the numerous defences of the
Porte do I'Aude, the Bishop's Towers, one of which adjoins both
enceintes, the Tower of the Inquisition, Charlemagne's Tower, the
Tower of St, Naxaire, and the Treasury Tower, near the Porte Nar-
bonnaise. The Cit^ contains a few an<cient and badly preserved
houses. The small street which begins at the Porte Nftrbonnsise
leads to the Citadel, in which very little restoration has been
effected. It is now used as a baTrack.
Next to its fortifications the chief building of the Git6 is (be
church of *St. Nazaiee , formerly a cathedral , founded in the dth
to Ceite, NARBONNE. L Route 14, 101
cent, but rebuilt in the 1 l'14th, and restored by Viollet-le^Duc. The
portal has disappeared and we enter by a Romanesque doorway
on the N. side. The nave, in the Romanesque style of the 12th
cent, with Gothic side-chapels, is heavy and massive when con*-
trasted with the transept and the choir, both of which are splendid
erections of the 14th cent., containing magnificent stained - glass
windows. In a chapel to the left of the nave is the monument
of Pierre de Roquefort (d. 1321), the bishop who finished the church,
with three fine life - size figures in high - relief. To the left of the
choir is the tomb of Simon Vigorce, archbishop of Narbonne (1575),
with a fine marble statue. A coarse bas-relief on the S. side of the
nave represents the siege of Toulouse in 1218. In the small sacristy
on the same side is the interesting tomb of Bp. Radulph (1266). A
tablet of red marble near the high-altar is said to mark the original
resting-place of Simon de Montfort, the persecutor of the Albigenses.
A good view of the Pyrenees is obtained from a point outside
the fortifications, near the Porte de I'Aude.
From Careassoime to Quillan (exeursiona), see B. 28.
Resuming our journey from Carcassonne, we cross the Canal du
Midi and the Aude and, after getting a fine glimpse of the Cit^ on the
right, enter a short tunnel. We follow the valley of the Aude, at
some distance from the river. 61 M. Trebes; 64 M. Flowre; 67 M.
Capendu. To the right rises the Montague d'Alaric (1950 ft.), on
which the Visigoth king is said to have had a castle, with some
ruins of the 14th cent, and marble quarries. — 72 M. Moux.
A branch- line runs hence to (iT^/s M.) Cannes (H6t. Bastid), with
ralnable marble quarries.
DiLiOBKCB ( fares reapeetively 80 c. and 1 fr. 80 e. ) to Fabrezan , a
eountry-town, 8 M. to the S., on the Orbieu^ with a castle dating in part
(torn the 12th cent., the tower of which is nearly 100 ft. hlgh^ and to
lagrasse, also finely situated on the Orbieu, 611. to the S.W., of Fabrezan.
Prom either of these towns picturesque excursions may be made among
the CorbiiTM, a small chain of mountains which strikes out from the Py-
renees near the Pech de Bugarach and runs from S.W. to X.E.,, between
the Aude and the Agly (good roads). About 3 M. to the 8. of Fabrezan
we join the road from Lagrasse to Karbonne, whence diverge several
(>f the most interesting routes across the Corbieres , the finest being those
to (31 or 34 II.) Sstagel (p. 184) and to (27 H.) La Nouvelle (p. 184).
Beyond (79 M.) Lezignan the train crosses the Orbieu, 84 M.
yuiedaigne; 87 M. Marcorignan,
93 M. Narbonne (Buffet). — Hotels. "Qbavd-Hotel (pi. b^D,3),
Bottl. Gambetta; *db la Dorade (PI. a^ B,3), de France (PI. c; B,3), Rue
de la Bepublique 44 and 7; db l'Ukivers (PI. d^C.l), at the station,
f 2 fr., unpretending. — Caf^s in the Place de rH6tel-de-Ville and Cours
de la Republique. — Post and Telegraph Office (PI. C,3), in the Place du
Tribunal, beside tbe former cathedral.
^arhonnty a town of 27,824 inhab. , is situated in a dusty
plain, 5 M. from the Mediterranean , with which it is connected by
the Canal de la Robine. Though still carrying on a number of
industries (distilling, coopering, etc.), it has emphatically seen
'^^ best days, and its streets are badly built and ill -paved. A
102 /. Routt 14. NARBONNE. Frwn TotUoute
handsome new quarter has, however, been laid out near the station,
necessitating the removal of the interesting old fortifications. It is
a disappointing town to those who bear in mind its former impor-
tance , as its only lions are the old Cathedral and the Archbishop's
Palace. Even the Museum is poor in antiquities.
!Karbonne ^ Narbo , was a flourishing town as early as the 5th cent.
B. G. It was colonized by the Romans B. G. 116. At that time it wa«
surrounded by lakes which were connected with the Lake of 8ijean (p. 184)
and so communicated with the sea^ thus making the town one of the first
ports of the Mediterranean and the rival of Massilia. It gave its name
to Gallia ^arbonensis, a part of Gaul conquered by the Romans before the
time of Gsesar. Martial, in A. D. 95, speaks of it as a beautiful town,
and Sidonius Apollinaris (d. 484) praises its theatre , temple , eapitol.
warm baths, triumphal arches, and other buildings, of which nothing
remains but fragments disedvered in the walls of the enceinte, which
were demolished in 1867. The Visigoths established themselves here in
413 and kept possession of the town till 719, when it was taken by the
Saracens atter two years* siege. So strongly did the latter fortify it that
Gharles Nartel failed to take it and the troops of Pepin only effected their
entrance through treason in 759. In 817, under Gbarlemagne, the town
became the capital of the duchy of Septimania or Gothia, but it after-
wards had its own viscounts, passing subsequently first to the Counts of
Anvergne, then to those of Toulouse, with whose dominions it was finally
united to France in 1507. The decay of the town dates from the begin-
ning of the 14th cent. , when the Jews, who had been established in a
quarter of their own by Charlemagne , were expelled , and the port
becnine silted up through the bursting of a dyke, by which the Bomanb
bad diverted to it a branch of the Aude. — T^e honey of Narbonne is
considered the best in France.
The best way from the station to the centre of the town is to
follow the Boulevard de la Gare (PI. C, 1, 2; B,2) to the right, leav-
ing the old town to be visited on the return. The Rue do la R^pub-
lique leads to the left from the end of the boulevard, along the
Canal de la Robine, to the Place de l'H6tel-de-ViUe (Pi. C, 3).
The •Church of St. Just (PI. B, C, 3), formerly the Cathedral
(closed from noon till 3), is a fine but unfinished Gothic edifice
dating mainly from 1272-1332. The work was resumed in th<^
18th cent., and again in the 19th, but has once more been inter-
rupted. The choir, the only ancient part, with towers added in
the 15th cent., is a vast pile 131 ft. in height, rivalling the churcheii
of the North in boldness of style, though not in richness of orna-
mentation. The exterior is crowned with a double range of battle-
ments, and the flying buttresses end in turrets.
Ikterior. In the ambulatory are some interesting tombs of bishops
of the 14th and 16th cent. ; in the 3rd chapel on the left , that of a
general of the time of Henri IV. The organ-case dates fVom 1741. The
treasury contains MSS., missals, ivory carvings, portable altars, a ero».<.
a chalice, etc. (7 -16th cent.). Fine view from the towers. — Adjoining
the church are some remains of the CMsiers (14-15th cent.).
The chief remains of the Archiepiseopal Palace (13-14th cent. .
which was fortified in the Middle Ages, are three towers on the
facade, the largest (on the left) dating f^om i318. The Gothio
Hotel db Yillb (PI. B, C, 3), between this tower and the next, wa^
built by Viollett-le-Duc.
e 1 1 1 s Bi s 1^ J
i: 14.000 -i^i^.J'--^
O so 100
Grav* et tiaprim^ parW«Jner*P«^
i
toCette. BRZI£RS. 1. Route 14, 103
The *Mu8ECM, in the same building, chiefly contains paintings
and a fine ceramic collection (Sun. and Thurs., 2-4; to strangers at
other times also). We enter by the door to the left, at the end of
the court, or by skirting the building to the left to the Jardin Public
at the hack of it. The garden contains sculptures, inscriptions,
architectural fragments , and other antiquities found at Narbonnej
the rest of the antiquities have been deposited in the old Eglise
de Lamourguier (PI. C, 4), beyond the canal , and may be seen on
application to the keeper of the Museum.
Boom I. G-allie and Roman antiquities ; fossils from the quarries of
Armifisan^ 5 M. to the E. of Narbonne v six pictures representing aldermen
of Nubonne in the 17th ^nt., etc. — Rook II, in the large tower, has a
beautiful ceiling, executed in 1634 by Italian artists and representing
<leail and Muses ; also a Roman mosaic found at 'Narbonne, and various
P&mtiDgs. — The last gallery (see below), the ancient dining hall of the
arebbiahops, and other roo.ms are also interesting for their decorations.
-The remainder of the paintings, including some interesting works,
are hung ih Rooms III, VI, and VII.
Booms IV A V contain the *<^amie C^lheUony which comprises over
tiOO pieces. Among the most noteworthy are the Mauro-3panish ware, from
Valencia (Nos. 1-13); .the Italian majolica of Castelll (71), Deruta (72, 73),
iJavona (90, 92), Urblno (97, 98, 101- 1(S), etc. ; the porcelain atid glazed
ware of China, Japan, Persia, Berlin, Saxony, France^ etc.
Boom VI (Sallt Chabtr) and VII (Oalerie Pepre) contain paintings, for
^e most part of the Italian, French, Netherlandish, and Spanish Schools
or the 16-f8th centuries.
Boom VIII. Casts from the antique. To the right, between the wIb-
ilowg, 529. SUenut, an ancient marble statue found in eottstruetloc the
nilway. — The Gallert parallel to the large hall, contains furniture,
«ngra7lngs, etc.
TheRueDroite leads from the Place de rHdtel-de-Vllle to-
wards the station. In the Rue Michelet, to the right, is the church
of Sf. Sebastien (PI. C, 2), in the florid Gothic style. The chapel
to the right contains a fine stone reredos. St. Sebastian (250-88),
the well-known martyr, was a native of Narbonne. -* Archaeologists
may visit the church of St. Paul Serge (PI. A, 4), a Gothic build-
ing of the 13th cent., beyond the Robine to the S.W.
From Narbonne to Perpignom^ see R. 29. — A branch-line runs from
Sarbonne to (13 M.) Bizf^ a manufacturing town on the Cesse, with some
prehistoric eaves. — Tramway to Courtan (see below), hourly \ flO c.
97 M. Oourtan (Maison Dor^e), a town of 3767 inhab.^ on the
^ude, with an artesjan well yielding an agrated and ferruginous ther-
fnal water. — We cross the Aude. — Beyond (102V8 M.) Nissan, we
thread 4 tunnel of 550 yards, p&rtly under another tunnel through
which tVe Canal du Midi passes. Reaching B^ziers , we cross the
^rb, which a little lower down is also crossed by a fine aqueduct of
f*»e Canal du Midi.
IO8V2 ^- Bteiers. — Railway Stationa. Owe du Midi or Orande Gare
[y^C,D,5-, boi^et); Oare du Nord or Oare d^ Pitencu (Pi. D,l). — Hotels.
w i??^^"*' «>« l-A- PA-IX (PI. a), DB LA. PO8TB (Pl.b), DU COMMBRCS (PL c),
7;, f /l» a^. 3 fr. , D. Si/j, commercial, db la Bbsbrvb (PI. d), all in the
A»6fl|>»ai Biquet (PI. C,3)^ Dt IToRb (PI. 6^0,4), Place de la Citadelle,
K/**fc» ^* Paris, DtJ Chbhin-db-Fbr, at the station, unpretending. —
w*s» lererat near the theatre, well fitted up. — Oaha. Per drive 1 f r ,
104 /. Route U. BliZIERS. From Touloun
per hr. U/a f'« i with two horses II/4, 2 fr. — Electric Tramteayt (eomp.
Plan), 10 t.y 15 c. with correspond&nee.
Beziers, with 52,077 inhab., finely situated on a hill, is a town
of very ancient origin, having been colonized by the Romans under
the name of Beterrae Septimanorum. Like most of its neighbours,
it suffered severely in the Albigensian war, and in 1209 about
20-30,000 of its citizens were massacred or burned. Beziers pro-
duces good red wines and carries on a large trade in brandy.
Quitting the Gare du Midi, foot-passengers ascend across the
Jardin des Poete$ (PI. D, 5), embellished with a monumental Foun-
tain, surmounted by a bronze Titan, by In j albert, to the Alli^es
Paul Riqcet (PI. C, 3, 4), the central and finest part of the town,
forming a shady promenade 650 yds. long. In the first half of it
stands a statue (by David d'Angers) of Paul BigiMt (PL 3; G, 4), the
constructor of the Canal du Midi (p. 76), who was a native of Be-
ziers. Adjacent is the large Place de la CitadeUe (band twice or
thrice a week) , with a tasteful marble fountain. At the end of the
avenue rises the Theatre (PL C, 3).
The Rue du Quatre-Septembre, diverging to the left on this side
of the theatre, leads to the Hotel de Ville (PL B, 3; 18th cent.),
whence we proceed to the old cathedral of St. Nazaibb (PL A, 4),
the principal building of Beziers, at the S. W. end of the town. It
dates from the 12- 14th cent, and is in the Gothic style peculiar to
the district, partly fortified and showing little adornment. The win-
dows of the choir retain their old glass and iron scrollwork. In the
W. facade is a fine rose-window and behind is a large square tower.
The S. transept is adjoined by Gothic cloisters of the 14th centur)*.
The terrace by the church affords a magnificent view, com-
prising the valley of the Orb, the C^vennes to the N., the Corbieres
to the S. W., and the Mediterranean to the S.
The Hdtel Fahregat^ Rue Fabrdgat 6, near St. Nazaire, now ac-
commodates the small Mus^e (PL 1 ; A, B, 4), consisting chiefly of
paintings, mostly of the French school.
In the Amphiiheatre (Arhnet) bf Bdziers, y^HL. from the Allies Paul
Riquet vi& the Avenue de Bessan (PI. D, 3), open-air lyrical and dramatic
performanees take plaee annually in summer. — Bull Fights in the Spanish
fashion are held at Beziers in spring and summer.
About Va M. to the S.W. are the interesting Locks 0/ Fonseranntty
by whieh the Canal du Midi descends 80 ft. within 330 yds. to reach the
level of the Orb. — At the mouth of the Orb, 8I/2 M. to the S. B., are the
modest sea-baths of aMgnam^ 3 M. b«yond the little town of that name,
served by a steam-tramway (1 hr. ; 75 c.) starting from the bridge above
the railway-bridge.
From Beziers to Neussargnes and. to Rodezy etc.. see BR. 38,16.
Feom BiziBEs TO MoHTPBLLiBK VIA Paulhak , 47 M. , railway in 3S/v
31/3 hrs. (fares 8 fr. 60, 5 fr. 75, 3 fr. 75 e). — The direct line is qnitted at
V%as (p. 1()5), whence we ascend to the N. through the valley of the BiraulL —
221/3 H. P^zenas (H6t«l dt la Paix; du Commerce)^ the Roman Piscennae^ a very
aneient town of 6695 inhab., with an important trade in cognac. During
the nth cent, this town was frequently the meeting-place of the Estates
of the large and wealthy province , and it still retains several buildioe'*
to 0$tt€. AGDE. /. Route 14. 105
dating from that period of proiperity. AmOBg thMe are tbe AWW d^Al-
fo%ie (16th cent.); the Theatre ^ formerly a chapel and tbe scene of the
meetings of the Estates ; several old MaMnon$t Oatei^ etc. Here Holiere m4de
his debut in 1666-56 and composed his ^Pr^eienses Ridicules'. The town
ha« also another station, on the line from B^ziers to MontpeUier vii Meze
(see below). The Chdieou de la Orange - dei - Pri* , once belonging to the
families of Montmorency and Contl, lies V4 V- to the N. — 29 M. Paulhan
(Buffet), on the line from Castres and Montauban to Hontpellier (p. 109).
- To Lodtee, see p. 109.
Fbom Bbzibes to Hoxtpellibb TiA MAzB. 50 M. This line, starting
trom the Oare de Piteneu (p-. 106), is almost without interest to the tourist.
151/sM. P^zenoi (p. 104). — 27M. Vise (H6i. Euitaehe), a town of 6315 inhab.,
on tbe K. bank of the Etang de Thau, with salt-works. Steamer to Cette,
see p. 276. — 37 M. Montbazin (p. 110). — 60 M. MontpeUier, see p. 369.
FsoM BiziBBS TO St. Chiviak (St. Pon$)^ ISi/a M . This line also starts
from the Gare de Pezenas (see aboTe), and runs Tli (8 H.) the little
town of Cazouli-Ut-Bizieri. ^ 181 /2 M. St. Chinian (H/^t. du Orand-Soleil)
is an industrial place of 3112 inhab., in a picturesque situation. A public
eonreyance plies henee to St. Pons (p. 10?).
II272M. VilUneuve-les- Beziers, beyond which the Mediterranean
fomes into view on the right. — II9V2 M. Vicu, with an interesting
church of the 14th century. To MontpeUier via Pezenas, see above.
About Vs V* to tbe S. £. is a curious modern Aqueduct by which the
Libron crosses the Canal du Midi. It consists of two movable parts,
which open and shut for the passage of boats along the canal.
122 M. Agde {Hotel du Cheval Blanc, on the quay), the ancient
Agaihe, founded by the Massilians, a town of 8478 inhab., is situ-
ated on the HtravXt and the Canal du Midi , 3 M. from the sea,
and has a harbour carrying on a brisk trade with Spain and Italy.
Like most of the towns in Southern France , Agde was taken and
sacked by the Vandals, the Visigoths, the Saracens, the Franks,
iind the Crusaders in the Albigensian war. The Calvinists also
held possession of it from 1562 to 1577.
We enter the town by a suspension-bridge over the H^rault. To
the right is the Cathedral (12th cent.), with a crenelated roof which
gives it the appearance of a castle from a distance. Below are large
Romanesque arcades witb small windows resembling loop-holes.
The tower, which has no spire, is in a similar style. The W. portal
has been built up and the choir transferred to the W. end of the
cburch, while tbe entrance is now in one of the chapels of the ori-
ginal choir at the E. end. — The main street leads in the opposite
direction from the church to an EsplanadCy on which are remains
of old fortifications and a Fountain with a marble statue of Agathe.
To the S. E. of Agde rises the Pic St. Loup or Moniagne d'Agde, an
extinct Yoleano (380 ft.) , which furnished the lava of which the town is
bvilt, and off the coast is the little JU de Breseou\ which, like the Cap
i'Agde and the mouth of the H^ranlt, is fortified.
We next cross the canal and the H^rault and pass, on the left,
the Etang de Thau, a salt lagoon 11 M. long and 5-6 M. wide, on the
banks of which are large saltrworks. The Canal du Midi (p. 76) ends
here and is prolonged to the sea by the Canal de Cette. — Beyond
(125 M.) Xes Onglous, the line follows a tongue of land, about Vs ^-
106 i. Route 15, GASTRSS. From Montauhan
wide, between the Mediterranean and the lake. On the opposite bank
lies Meze (p. 105). At the N.E. end are the baths o{Balaruc (p. 276).
Finally we cross the Canal de Cette, and reajch —
136 M. Cette (Buffet), see p. 275.
15. From Montauban to Montpellier vi& Castres.
B6darieuz. Paulhav. Lamalou-les-Bains.
167 M. Railway in 1^4 hrs. (fares 30 fr. 25, 20 fr. 40. 13 fr. 30 c). -
Thig route is 19 M. shorter than that via Toulouse (BR. 10,14).
Montauban, see p. 72. The line ascends the valley of the Tarn.
through an uninteresting plain on the left bank. — 3^2 M. Bressols;
8M. Labastide-St- Pierre; 12 M. Nohic.
ldV2 M. Villemur, with 3944 inhab., lies on the right bank of
the Tarn. — lOVa M. La Magdelaine; 23 M, Besaieres. — Beyond
(25 M.) Buzet-sur-Tarn we join the line from Toulouse to Limoges
via Capdena« (R. IB, II, b), on the right.
27V2 M. St, Sulpice (Buffet). We cross the Affout and ascend the
valley of that river , which we cross and recross several times , at
Lavaur by a bridge 95 ft. in height. — 32 M. St. Jean-de-Rives.
3672 M* Lavaur (Goulard; Bertrand) , an ancient town with
6382 inhab., on the left bank of the Agout, was a stronghold of the
Albigenses, sacked by Simon de Montfort in 1211. It was formerly
the seat of a bishopric, held in 1685-1687 by Fl^chier, before
his translation to Nimes. The Cathedral, a brick edifice of the
13th cent., contains two fine paintings, one of which is a Christ, by
Ribera. The Church of St. Fran^oU (14th cent.) has a richly de-
corated interior. The Jardin de I'Eveche is a public promenade
with a Statue of Las Cases (1766-1842), who shared the exile of
Napoleon I. and wrote the 'Memorial de Ste-H^lene'. The rearing
of silk-worms, silk-spinning, etc., are considerable industries at
Lavaur.
41 M. Fiac; 4672 M. St, Paul- Damiatte , two villages on the
Agout; 55 M. Semalens. — Beyond (57 M.) La Cr^made the line to
Castelnaudary diverges to the right.
617, M. CattreB {Qrand-Hotel, Rue Thiers; Hot. du Nord, Rue
JSabatier, R. 272-5, d^j. 3, D. 372 ^-i tramway to the town, 10 c).
an uninteresting town with 28,204 inhab. , on the Agout and the
Durenque. Until 1625 it was one of the chief strongholds of the
Calvinists , but in that year it was forced to submit and was dis-
mantled. The town has large manufactures of textile fl&brtce.
The Hotel de Ville occupies the old Bishops' Palace, built b>
Mansart , and incorporates a Romanesque tower dating f^om an old
Benedictine abbey, round which the town sprang up. The old Jar-
din de VEveche (17th cent.), behind the H6tel de Ville, is now a
public promenade. The Chureh of St. Benoit, the former cathedral.
to MontptUiUr, ST. PONS. /. R*mU IS. 107
opposite the H6tel de Ville , was reconstnictod in the 17*i8th een-
turies. Farther on is the Place NationcUe, embellished with a foun-
tain. The town is connected by two bridges with the suburb on the
left bank.
The litUe town of Biudata (hoteU), WsV. to the N.B., eonUina a
rained Church of the Romanesque and Qothie styles , and the PapUlon
^ Adelaide^ the remains of a iSth cent, eh&teau.
From Castres to CasUlnaudaryy see p. 99.
FioH Castrbs to Cabmaux (Rodeg) via Almi, dd^/s V> i railway in
21/4 hjs. (fares 7 fir. 20, 4 fr. 85, 3 £r. 16 c.). - 29^/3 M. Alhi, <7ar« d'Or
lioM Oo-aneh to Tessonniires , see p. 96). The line skirts the town to
the right and crosses the Tarn near the cathedral. 30^/^ M. Albi^ Oare
du Midi, in the suburb on the right bank. — 39l/a M. Oarmauz (Mader;
Marjf), with 10^068 inhab., has important coal-mines. —The railway is to
be continued to Aodet {^. 111), and will be carried across the Viaur^ a
little beyond Taniu (10 M. from Carmaux), by a viaduct even larger than
that of Garabit (p. 357).
Fkom Castsbs to Laoadvb, !39K. by the old road (earr. 25-36 fr.},
33 M. by the new road (diligence in 7-8 hrs. ; 5 fr.). — The old road, which
is more interesting but steeper than the other , leads vi& the Sidobre , a
granite plateau, and (15 M .) Brmuae (hotel), on the Agout. The new road
runs via the valley of the Durenque and (I8I/3 M.) Briuaac. —• Lasaaae
fH6tel Bcuiifie; Mouion; dt V Etablistement) y picturesquely situated on the
Oijoii, has a Bath Establiihmenty 3/4 H. to the £. (tramway), with thermal
and cold mineral springs. — Routes to St. Pont via La Salvetat, and to
draittetac via 8t. Oervais- Ville and Marat-sur-Vebre, see pp. 106, 960.
Beyond Castres our train crosses the Agout, crosses and recrosses
the Thortj and halts at (64V2 ^)' l*o^tange,
667s M. Lahfuguilftj a manufacturing town (3255 iuhab.), with
a ruined castle and a fine Romanesque tower. — TOM. Rouhinarie ;
12 M. St, Alhy.
73 M. Xanmet (Hotel Lamothe), a prosperous town (13,712
inliab.) on the Amette, to the N.W. of the Montague Noire. The
scanty tuIas of the ChcLttau d'Hautpoul occupy an eminence
about 21/2 M. from the town. About 3 M. to the S., on the Carcas-
sonne road, is the Cascade du Linoubre, 165 ft. in height.
The two chief summits of the Xontag ne Noire may be ascended hence
iQ 4-41/2 hrs. (with guide): the Pie de Nore (3970 ft.), to the S.E., via the
valley of the Amette^ the Pic de Montaud (3350 ft.), to the S.W.^ by the
new CJarcassonne road.
76 M. Alberts, — At (79 M.) 8t, Amans^Soult, Marshal Boult
(1769-1852) was horn and died. — 82 M. Albine; 84VsM. Laca-
barhde. Then, beyond a short tunnel, (87 M.) Labaitide-RoiMiroux,
a cloth-manoi^taring town, with 2820 inhabitants.
A tunnel nearly Vs ^- long takes us from the valley of the Tbor<
to that Oif the SaJLeyae, and from the basin of the Atlantic to that
of the Mediterranean. The scenery ehani^es; fig-trees and olives
appear. — 9172 M. C&umUou.
95 M. St. Font or St, Pom-de-ThamUres (Hotel Pa»tre}, a
cloth -manufacturing town with 3049inhab., about Vt ^- to the
left, in a valley at the head of which the Jaur rises. We pass under
the railway and ((Alow a fine avenue of plane-trees to the town.
Near the other end of the town is the Cathedral (12th cent. ; rebuilt
108 /. B<mte 16. LAMALOU-L^S-BAINS. Frim Montauhan
in the 18th), which hM a fine old portal behind the choir, and in
the interior, handsome choir-stalls and choir-screen.
Fbom St. Poks to St. Chxkiak (Bitten)^ 14 H., public conveyance in
21/2-3 hrs. (fare 2fr.), thrice a day, from the Cafe du Commerce, near
the church. — The route leads via the deep Defile of the Nouvre and
dowti the valley of the Vemazobrei. — St. Ohinian^ sea p. 106.
Fbom St. Poiis to La Salvbtat, 13i/s H., public conveyance in about
3 hrs. (fare 21/3 fr.), starting daily at 1 p. m. from the little Hdtel Dauzat,
at the end of the main street. — The route leads via the Col du Saumail
or du Cabaretou (3116 ft.) to (131/aH.) La SaWeUt (2196 ft.', Hdlel (kObirac),
with 3124 inhab. , on the right bank of the Agout , a favourite sununer-
resort of the inhabitants of the plain of Narbonnais. Here are the mineral
springs of Rieumajou. The neiglibourhood is bracing, abounding in game
and fish , and is a good centre for excursions. — Laeaune (p. 107) lies
121/2 H to the N. of La Salvetat.
A small tunnel is traversed. -- 97Vt M. RioU has cloth-manu-
factures. Beyond (10172 M.) St, Etienne-d' Alhagnan the Jaur is
spanned by three bridges. The bare heights to the left are the
Monti dt VEspinouse (3550 ft.). — 105 M. Olargues, situated on a
crag on the right bank. We cross a long and lofty viaduct \o
(107 Vt M.) Mons'la- THvalle. To the Gorge d'H^ric, see p. 109.
^Beyond another viaduct and two tunnels we enter the valley of the
Orb, and halt at ColomhUres (hotel) , where are a double waterfall,
a ruined chateau, and a huge chestnut-tree ; the Gorge d'H^ric may
also be visited hence. To the left rise the lofty cliffs of the Caroux
(p. 109). Beyond a tunnel is (113 M.) Le Poujol
114 M. Lamalon-les-Bains. — Hotel*. At Lamalou-le-Bas : Okakp-
HoTEL, R. from 8, B. 1, d6j. 3, D. 8I/2 fr. , Ob. Hot. dvs Baius, du Koki>.
these three of the first rank, 8-12 fr. per day. Du Midi, db la Pau,
DB Fbavce, second-class. — At Lamalou-le-Centre : QsAMD-HdTw. du Cbvtbb.
— At Lamalou-le-Haut : Hotel db l''£tabli88Emeiit^ Tababi^, R. from li/.t,
U. 3/4, diy 3, D. 31/2 fr. — Numerous Vilku and Furnithed House:
Bath Satabliohments. At Lamalou-le-Bas : Bains de piscine ii/4-4 fr .,
douches II/2-IV41 plunge-bath 2 fr. — At Lamalou-le-Haut : Bains de piscine
11/4-2, bain de baijeDoire 3, douche I1/4 fr. — At Lamalou-le-Centre : baths
IV2, douches li/4-3fr. — Mineral Water^ 10 c. per glass.
Garriag ea. About 35 fr oer day ; drives in the environs 10-40 fr. (tarifl ).
— Tramway OmnibuseM between ilic station, the three bath-establishments,
and La Vemiere, 15, 20, 25 c. — Donkey*^ 5 fr. per day.
Oaainos. Catino-Thidtre at Lamalou-le-Bas ; Casino Municipal^ new.
Post ft Teleffxaph OflLoa at Lamalou-le-Centre.
Lamalou'le8'Bain$, a thermal station amidst the mountain -
spurs that unite the G^vennes and the Montagne Noire (p. 107}^
consists of Lamalou-le-BoM or VAneitny Lamalou-U-Centre, and
LamaUm-le-Haut, all near each other and at about the same eleva^
tion (590 ft.). The waters (61-114° Fahr.) are especially eittcaciouft
in rheumatic and nervous affections. The visitors are mostly front
the S. of France and from Spain. Lamalou is very hot and dusty
in summer, like all this part of Southern France.
The Etabussememt du Bab, to the left in the village, behind
the casino, is pleasantly situated round a shady court, open toward^
the valley. On the hill-slope behind are a pretty Parkf with th
^idaiU spring (118° Fahr.), one of the chief mineral springs, an
to Montpellier. MOUREZE. /. Routt M. 109
a small Botanic Garden (adm. free). The Laeets de Rhodes offer a
pictaresque walk with fine views. — The Etabussembnt dti Gbntre,
rebailt in 1892, has a Hydropathic Establiahment in connection
with it. — The Etablissbmekt du Haut, V2 M. farther on, is a well-
equipped establishment in a pleasant Park, with a small stream and
the buvette of the Petit- Vichy,
Ezenxaioiu and Walks. Bt Tbahwat (25 c.) to the Park of La Vemiire
ladm. 35 e.), about V4 M. to the S.S.E., on the right bank of the Orb.
Oh Foot ob oh Dohkbts. To the N. W., to ViUecelle (3 If .), a typical
Cerenole Tillage ; to Le FraUte^ with its legendary eheatnat-tree, 3 hrs. there
and baek; to the V.E. to the hermitage of Noire- Dame-de-Capimont (4 hrs. \
fine view) 5 to the S.W. to the priory of Si. Pierre-de-Bhide*y the foun-
dation of which is attributed to Charlemagne; to the Caroux^ see below.
Bt Gasbiaob. Via Hiripian and the valley of the Mmre to (3l/a H.)
Tillemagne^ said to have been endowed by Charlemagne (10 fr. there and
baek). The church dates from the 12th century. About 1/3 H. farther on
is the picturesque Poni du Diable. To St. Gervais , see below. - - To the
VaUejf 0/ ihe Orb and the Gorge dTMiriet 10 M., an interesting excursion
requiring 1/2 day. The route leads through a highly picturesque part of
tbe yalley via Le Poujol and (5 M.) Colombiires (p. 106). The imposing
rocky amphitheatre of the Gorge d'Hfeio lies to the left of the road , a
little before the (63/4 H.) Pont de Tara$*ae^ a suspension-bridge over the
Orb, commanding a beautiful view. This excursion may also be made by
taking the train to Mons-la-Trivalle (p. 106), about Va H. beyond the
Pont de Tarassac. — To (81/3 M. ; 20 fr.) St. Gervais- VilU (Hotel Soulid), a
Tillage with 1780 inhab. , picturesquely situated on a tributary of the
Mare, via the plateau of Tauisac^ returning by the valley of the Mare via
Villemagne (I2V2 *• '■> sec above). — From St. Gervais to Graissesae and
to Laeaune, see pp. 107, 260.
AscEHT or Mont Caroux (31/3-4 hrs.). We drive to (TVs H.) Oouch
{there and back 35 fr.), l/a - V4 hr. to the N.W. of the plateau ^ or walk
Tia ViUecelle^ Le Fratne (see above) , Le Logit - Neuf (I1/4 hr. from La-
malou), and Douch (about 1 hr. from the top). Xont Oarons (3686 ft. \
goide D fr. \ from the inn 2 fr.), though not very lofty, eommands an ad-
mirable view, embracing the plain of Bas-Languedoc, part of the Pyrenees,
tbe Mediterranean, Mont Ventouz, and the beginning of the Alps.
Beyond Lamalou the railway continues to ascend the valley of
the Orb. — 116 M. H/repian, To Villemagne, see above. We
cross the Orb , and join the main line from Neussargues to B^ziers
(R 38).
118 M. B6dari6uz {Buffet), see p. 260.
The Montpellier line follows that to B^ziers as far as (124 M.)
Faugeret, the next station , where it turns to the £. It then passes
through three tunnelB. — 131 M. Qahian, a large village with a
ruined chateau; then three other small stations.
142 m. Panlhan (Buffet), Railway to B^ziers and P^zenas,
see p. 105.
From Paulhawto LodAvb, 18VaM., railway In 1 hr. (fares 3 fr. 25,2fr.'10,
1 fr. 45 c). This line is a continuation of the line from B($ziers through
"»e valley of the H^rauU. — 71/2 *• Clermont-rHirault (^«. du Commerce;
^« w Re»a£stanee), an industrial town (5083 inhab.) with tanneries and
^nafactures of woollen oloth, mainly for the army. It contains a church
Of the ia<14th cent, and a ruined castle. About 5 M. to the S.W. is the
small village of Mourte*, in a curious amphitheatre of dolomite rocks
reeaUiag Montpellier -le-Vieux (p. 266). A carriage (4-8 pers., 20-30 fr.)
may be ordered in advance, through the station-master, for a visit to
110 I. Route 16. DEOAZEVILLE.
this *eirqije'. — 101/2 M. RaMet/Xy junction «f & line to Uontpellier (p. 275). —
I81/2 M. lioddve (H6tel du Nord; du Commerce)^ the Lvieva of the ancients,
a ftnely situated town of ^060 inhabitants , was gorerned in the Middle
Ages by yiseounts, asd then by bishops, who up to 1789 had the right of
coining money. It is now a manufacturing town, specially en^ged in
making military cloth. The former Cathedral dates from the loth and
16th centuries.
We cross the Herault. — Between (144*/2 M.) Campagnan and
(146 M.) SL Pargaire is a tunnel, and beyand (ISOVjM.) VilU-
veyrac another.
156 M. Mo&tbasin, also a station on the line from B^ziers Tia
Meze (p. 105) and connected by rail with Cette (8 M.), via Balaruc
(p. 106). — 159 M. Coumonterral ; 16178^. Fabregues.
167 M. MontiMllier (Buffet), see p. 269.
16. From Capdenac to Eodez and Briers.
Railway to Rodez, 41 M., in 2-2V2 hrs- (fares 7fr. 60, 5 fr. 5, 3fr. 30 c.) ;
from Rodez to Mende, 68 M., in 6 hrs. (fares 12 fr. 65, S fr. 46, 5 fr. 50 c).
— From Rodez to Bdeiers, 120 M., in 6V4-7V4 hrs. {farM 21 fr. 85, 14 fr. 75,
9 fr. 55 c). — From Paris to Bizitrt vid Limoges and Rodez^ 632 M., see R. 13
and below ; vid Clermont-Ferrand and Neussargues^ 500 M., see B. 38.
Capdenac, see p. 94. This line, parts of which are interesting,
ascends the valley of the Lot, commanding a series of pleasant
views. Two tunnels. — 5 M. St. Mao'tin-de-Bomllac. To the left,
beyond another tunnel , are the ruins of the ch4teau of La Roque-
Bouillac. — 7^/2 M. Panchot. We now quit the valley of th© Lot
by a tunnel and reach (9 M.) Viviez , a small industrial town with
coal~mines and zinc works.
A branch -line runs fVom Viviee to (IV4 V) D«easeirille (H&tel des
Houilltres) , a town of 9634 inhab. , the centre of the coal - fields of the
Aveyron^ which occupy an area of 30 sq. H. and rank third among
the coal-Aelds of France. Here and at Firmy^ 8H. farther on, are spots
where the coal crops out on the surface of the ground and forma beds
more than 160 ft. thick. With these important minds are connected smelt -
ing-works, blast-furnaces, foundries, and forges. The town owes its B«Bie
to the Dw Decate* (1780-1860), a minister of JLouis XVIII., and the chief
promoter of these works, to whom a bronze statue, by Dumont, has been
erected here.
The line now ascends considerably. 12 M. Aubin (H^t. des
Yoyageurs), a town of 9781 Inhab., with coal and iron mines and
iron-works. — 13 V2 M. Cransac (Hdt. Sahut, etc.; 6955 inbab.),
with mineral springs.
About 6 M. to the 8. is the handsome Chdteau de Bonmatel (15- iSth
cent.). In the ColHnes du MonUi and dti Fontaines^ to the K., are coal-
mines that have been on fire for centuries ^ smoke and sometimes flames
are seen issuing from them.
We now traverse a busy district. — 27 M. Marcillac.
About 15 H. to the N.W. lies Osnques (Sdttl ate. Foy)^ with ui In-
teresting Romanesque abbey-church (11th cent), possessing many fine r«-
liquaries and other treasures, some dating frodi the 10th centui^.
At (30 M.) Nuces we reach a high plateau, commanding a flue
and extensive view. We then cross a viaduct 115 ft. high and reach
RODEZ.' L Route 16. Ill
(32V2 M.) Vane and (35 M.) SeUUs- la -Source (Hot. Ponthel), a
large and pictaresqne village with fine cascades and grottoes.
41 M. Sodec. — Hot»ls. Db Fkakcb, PUce de U Cit^ 7, B.3, B. V4-
d^j. 31/3,, D. 3 fr., omn. 40 e.^ *Biiist, Boaievard Gaa&bette, R. U/a^ 31/31
B. 1/2, dej. 21/2, D. 3fr., omn. 40 c. — Buffet, with rooma^ at the station.
Bode%, a town of 16,303 inhab., the ancient capital of the Ruteni
and later of the Routrgu€f is the chief town of the department of the
Aveyron and the seat of a hishop. It stands on an eminence , the
base of which is washed by the Aveyron , V4 M. from the station.
In the suburb below the town proper a fine Church of the Sacr^-
Coeur is being built. A street ascends to the left y a little farther
on, to the boulevards surrounding the old town , which command
fine views. We turn to the right on reaching the "boulevards and
pass between the Grand S^minaire and a view-point with a small
garden , in which a bronze statue (by PuSch) was erected in 1889
to Monteil (1769-1860), the historian, a native of Kodez. The
seminary-garden stretches from the left side of the boulevard to the
ancient rampart. Farther on , near the cathedral , is the BUhops'
Palace (17th cent.), which still retains a massive mediaeval tower
and a wall with Romanesque arcades.
The Cathedbal or Notre- Dame of Rodez is an imposing fabric
built between 1277 and 1535. As is the case with most of the
churches of Southern France, the exterior is bare and severe in aspect.
TheW. front, flanked by two massive towers, is without a portal, but
has a grand Flamboyant rose-window and a gallery in the same style,
Bormounted by a Renaissance pediment. The * Tower, beyond the
N. entrance, is square below but above consists of three octagonal
stages remarkable for the richness of their decoration and flanked
by four turrets with statues of the Evangelists. On the platform
is a statue of the Virgin. The interesting side-portals, in the Gothic
style, are much dilapidated.
Among the chief points of interest in the interior are the OaUerp, in
the Renaissance style , extending into the aisles ; the Rood Lo/t^ in the
same style, now in the S. transept, but formerly at the entrance to the
ehoir; the fine Gothic Stall*; the Organ Case in the N. transept; on the
same side, a Sarcophagus of the 5th or 6th cent., and a Virgin of the
iith cent, in the first chapel on the N. side of the choir; the Tomb» of
the bishops, from the middle ages down to the present day \ an Altar with
^ fresco of the 6th cent, in the apsidal chapel ;. an AUo-relief of the Agony
in the Garden, and a Holy Sepulchre^ in the Renaissance style, in two
chapels to the right of the nave, one of which is enclosed by a fine
screen in the Flamboyant style.
The Rue Frayssinous, on the N. of the cathedral, and the follow-
ing street lead to the Place de la Cit^, in which is a bronze Statue
0/ %r. Affre (1793-1848), Archbishop of Paris, who was born in
the district. — The Rue Neuve, to the right, connects the Place de
la Cit^ with the Place du Bourg , before reaching which we pass,
on the right, an old House with a corner -tower adorned with an
Amiunciation. Farther on, to the right, at the corner of the Rue
d'Anuagnac is the Hdtel d'Armagnac, a Renaissance edifice, also
11^ J. Route 16. ESPALION.
bearing an ATinunciation and numerous medallions. — A littfl
farther down, as we come from the Place, is the Church of St, Amani{
with a Romanesque nave , restored in the 18th century. The Ro^
d'Armagnac and the following street join the boulevards near tli(
Palais de Justice, in which is a small Musee (open on Sunj
1-3 p. m.). Thence we return to the cathedral vi4 the Boulevard^
Gaily and Gambetta (to the right). The former passes the Lyce'e^
behind which is a Fountain, bearing a Bust of Oally, a benefactor oj
the town. — In the small square in front of the cathedral is a bronzy
Statue of Samson, by Gayrard of Rodez.
A railway is being built from Rodez to Carmmux and AUn (p. 96). -^
A public eonveyanee pliea to (161/2 M.) BtpaUonf by an aninterestini
route, except near Espalion (see below).
The line now ascends the valley of the Aveyron, c>rossing the
river several times and traversing a partly wooded district, with
coal-mines. 46 M. Candbols ; 47 Vs M. Qages, — 52 M. Bertholene,
beyond the station, to the left, dominated by a ruin.
A DiLiGBNCB plies hence to (11 M.) Espalion, via Gabriac^ a larg :
village halfway, on an eminence, near which is a pilgrimage-chape'
The road, descending in windings, affords fine views of the Valley of the
Lotf with its chateaux (see below), and of the Honts d'Aobrac (p. 358). —
Espalion (ffdtel David)^ a picturesque old town with 3787 inhab- and an an-
cient chateau, is situated in the deep valley of the Lot, above which
rise the picturesque ruined chateaux of Galmont-d' Olt and Roquelaure. —
CJonveyance from Bodes , see above. — An attractive road runs from
Espalion to (I31/3 H.) the station of Gampagnac (p. 358) vi& the ravine
of the Lot till beyond (21/3 M.) St. Cdme, and thence vi& (8 H.) L<utou'
and (3 M.) Ste. Eulatie, iV^ M. to the S.W. of St. Genies-d'Olt (p. 359).
55 M. Laissac; 59Vt M. Lugans, with a ch&teau, to the left^
61 M. Oaillac; 64 M. Recoules.
At C69M.) Sev^rac-le- Chateau (p. 259) we join the direct line
from Clermont-Ferrand (Paris) to Be'ziers, see R. 38.
ill ions. -Ai
hurch o/^.i«
rentury. n«H
oulevini8>Mf''|
e'e (open M ^4
,ii the BooW
passes tke H
thidralisihn*"
• •
jed district fl":
52 M. Bir^\
of the rfr^*!
Lot, »«'\VL J
and /N**^^
e road ritfjjl
via (sr^;
eau,totfce^i
t
in At a^^'-
8. 1
i
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\
i;,r,
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■ bi:
' 1.
I II.
! ill.
I.
li.
"^^
II. THE PYRENEES.
r
17. From Bay oime to 8au Sebastian 115
From St. Je&n-de-Laz to tbe Rhune. 116. — From
Iran to Fuenterr&bia. The Pena de Aya, 117.
18. From Bayoiine to Toulouse 118
I. From Bayonne to Pau 118
From Pay do to St. PaUi« and to Mauleon, 118, 119.
II. From Pau to Lourdes 123
Pie de Jer. Lae de Lourdes, 196.
III. From Lourdes to Toulouse 126
From Lannemezan to Arreau. Valine d^Aure.
From Arreau to Aragnouet. Orotto of Gargas,
138. — Bneausse, 139.
19. From Pau to Oloron. Yall^ d'Aspe 130
St. ChriBtau. Leseun. Pie d*Anie, 131. — From
Urdos to Gabaa. From Le Somport to Gabas, 1S2.
20. Eaux- Bonnes, Eauz-Chaudes, and tbeir Environs 133
I. From Pau to Eaux-Bonnes and £aux-€haudes 133
II. Eaux-Bonnes 134
Excursions. To Eaux-Chaudes. Pie de Ger^ 136.
— Pie de Goupey. Lae d*Angla8 and Lae d*Uzi-
ous. Grand Pic de Gabicos. From Eaux-Bonnes
to Argelfes (Gauterets), 136.
III. Eaux-Chaudes .......... 136
Excursions. Grotto of Eaux-Chaudes. Gabas and
Bious-Artigues,137. — PlcdeBiseaou. Pic du Midi
d'Ossau. Lae d'Artouste, 138. — Pie d'Arriel. Pie
Palas. Pie de BalaitOQS. Bathsof Pantieosa, 139.
21. Cauteiets and its Enyirons . . . . . . . . 139
I. From Lourdes to Cauterets 139
St. Savin. Beaueens, 140.
II. Excursions from Cauterets 144
To the Kdnne. To the Cabaliros. Lae Bleu or Lae
dllleou, 144. T- Lae de Gaube. Peguere, 145. —
Valley of Hereadaou. To Gavarnie by the moun-
tains, 146. — Pic de Ghabarrou. Vignemale,
147. — Pic d'Araille and Pic deLabassfl. Val-
ley of Lutour. To Gedre. Pic d*Ardlderi, 148. —
Pic de Viscos. To Luz-St-Sauveur, 149.
22. Luz, St. Sauveur, and their Environs 149
I. From Lourdes to Luz and St. Sauveui- (Bareges) 149
II. Excursions from St. Sauveur 161
Pie de Viseos. Pie de Bergons. Piede Ne^<, 151. —
Cirque de Gavarnie, 101^ 158. — Br^ehe de Tuque-
rouye. Brectie de Roland and, €bl du Tailion.
^ P^e du Harhore. Mont Perdu, 153. — Vienemale.
Pimeme. Cirqufe de TtjOumouse, 154.
Baedeker. Southern France. 4th Edit. 8
114 PYRENEES.
23. Bareges and its Environs 155
I. From Lourdes to Bai:eges ... ... . . . 155
II. Excursions from Bareges .'..'. . . . 157
Pic de Nerd. Pic du Midi deBigorre, 157. — LaeBleu.
Pic d'Ayre. Pic de Neouvielle, 158. — To Bagn&res-
de-Bigorre via the Col du Tourmslet, 158, 159.
24. Bagneres-de-Bigorre and its Environs . . . . 159
I. From Tarbes to Bagneres-de-Bigorre . . . 159
II. Excursions from Bagiieres 161
To the Monnd, 161 — Pic de Montaigu. Valine de
Lesponne and Lac Bleii. Pic du Midi de Big-
orre. Pfene de Lhdris, 162. — To Arreau via
the Col d'Aspin, 163.
25. Bagneres-de-Luchon and its Environs .... 163
I. From Montr^jeau (Tarbes) to Bagneres-de-
Luchon 163
St. Bertrand-de-Gominges, 163. — Cascade de Juxet
and Cascade de Montaaban. Castelvieil, 167.
II. Excursions from Lucbon . . j- , ... . 167
Lac d*06, 167. — Port d'Oo. Portillon d'06, 168.—
Pic de Ceeire. Pic de Monsegu. ■ Le Monne. Pic
d'Antenae, lb9. — Superbagneres. Vallee du Lys
and Rue d'Enfer, 170. — Lac Vert. Pfc de Ba-
ean^re and Pie de Burat. PoujastoUy 171. — Port
de Venasque and Port de la Piquade, 171, 179. -~
Col de la Glere, 173. — Pie d'Entdcade. Pic de
Kethou (Monts-Maudits), 173. — Pie Posets, 174.
26. From Boussens (Toulouse or Tarbes) to Aulus yi&
St. Girons 1 .... 175
From St. Girons toSentein*, to Foix. Boehe du
Mas, 175. — Vallee deTArac. Seix, Pic de Mont-
valier. Excursions from Aulus, 176.
27. From Toulouse to Foix, Tarascon, Ussat, and Ax . 177
From Pamiers toXimoux^ 177. — From Foix to
Quillan, 178. — From Tarascon to Vicdessos.
Montcalm and Pic d''E8tax. Grotto of Lombrive,
179. — Excursions from Ax. Pic Saqnet. Pic
St. Barth^lemy. To Quillan. To Piireerda and
Bourg- Madame. To Andorra, 180, 181.
28. From Carcassonne to Quillan. Upper Valley of the
Aude. Valley of the Rebenty 182
Bennes-les-Bains, 183. — Foret de Fanges. From
Quillan to Carcaniferes-Escouloubre. From Axat
to Ax, 183.
29. The Eastern Pyrenees . 1^
I. From Narbonne to Perpijgnan 184
Estagel, 184. — From Perplg'nan to Canet. From
Perpignan to Port-Bou (Barcelona), 186.
II. From Perpignan to Villefranche-de-ConQent
and Puycerda 187
From Prades to the Baths of Molitg, 187. Canigou,
188. — Prom Villefranche to Le Vernet , 188. —
Plants. Foni-RomeU. Paigmal,188.'-From Bourg-
Madame to Les EseaUas. Puy de Carlitte, 160.
ST. JBAN-DE-LUZ. 11. Routt 17, 115
III. From Perpignan to Am^lie-les -Bains and La
Preste 190
Col dtt Perthus. Figuens, 190. — Excursions
from Amelie-les-Bains, 191. — Col d'Ares. C^i
Pragon. Pic de Costabonne, 192.
17. From Bayonne to San Sebastian.
34 M. Railway in I1/4-3 hrs,-, fares about 6 fr. 36, 4 fr. 25, 3 fr. 80 c. ; to
Eendaye^ on the frontier , 22 M. \ thence to San Sebcutidfiy 12 H. No through-
tickets ; travellers must book to Irun and thence to St. Sebastian (returu-
tiekets from Irun are valid only for the dajr on which thejr are issued). —
French money is accepted at San Sebastian, the franc and centime corre-
sponding to the Spanish peseta and centimo , but a^^ the former is at pre-
sent worth at least 20 per cent more than the latter, it is advisable to obtain
a supply of Spanish money at Bayonne or at the station of Hendaye or
Irun Ceambio de monedas'). — For details of this route beyond Hendaye,
see Baedeker''* Spain and Portugal.
Bayonne, see p. 62. — This route is highly attractive. The train
traverses a short tunnel, crosses first the Adour by a bridge com-
manding a fine view, and then beyond a second tunnel, the Nioe,
- 6 M. Biarritz , Station de la N^gresse , nearly 2 M. from the
Baths (p. 64). To the right, », little farther on , we have a view of
the Lac de MouHscot and the sea; and beyond another short
tunnel we reach (9 M.) Bidart and approach the coast, eivjoying a
fine view of the sea. 10 V2 M. Ouethary (Hdt. de la Plage; Juzan),
a small bathing - place, beyond which the mountains dominated by
theRhune (p. 116} appear to the left.
14 M. St. Jean-de-LuB. -^ Hotelc. *D'Amoletbbhb, on the beach, fre-
qsented by Bnglish visitors, R. 3-13, d^j. SVs^ !>• 41/a, pens. 8-16 fr. ; *Ter-
Kiiius-PLAOB^ Boulevard Thiers, with viewof the beach, R. 3-8, board 6 fr. ;
*DB l'Ocbav (English manager), with garden, near the sea, pens. 8-15 fr. ;
*DE LA P08TB, Eue Oatnbetta 85, R. 2, B. 1/2, d^j. 3, D. 3i/a, pens. 7-8 fr. •, de
Paeis,^ at the station, d4j. or D. 81/2 fr. — Furnished Apartments may also be
obtained. — Gafi Suisse^ in the Malson Louis Quatorze (see p. 116). — Post
and Teiegraph Office^ Rue Tourasse, near the Place Louis Quatorze.
Ea^luh Glmr«h (Ch. of the Nativity); Chaplain, Rev. Th.J. Cooper, B. D.,
T7 Bue Oambetta.
St. Jean-de-Luz, a quiet little seaport and bathing-resort, with
3951 Basque inhab., is situated on a bay at the mouth of the Nivelle.
From the 14th to the middle of the 17th century, the town enjoyed
considerable prosperity, with at one time a population of 12,000, one fourth
of whom were engaged in the whale-fishery of the Bay of Biscay and in
the eod-fishery on the banks of Newfoundland. But with the disappear-
ance of the whale from the bay, the Ipss of Xewfoundland by France,
and the eneroaehments of the 'sea which impaired the safety of the port,
the place rapidly declined. Vigorous attempts have been made to pro-
tect the entrance of the bay by breakwaters, but so terrible is the sea
on this iron-bound coast that in a storm of 1822 it completely annihi-
lated a breakwater 150yds. long; 16yds. wide at its base, and 11 yds.
bigh. Since 1876 still more considerable works have been carried out at
the headland of SoeoOy and so far they have successfully resisted the
sea. — In 1660 the town witnessed the marriage of Louis XIV. to the
Infanta Maria Theresa.
8*
116 //. Route 77. HENDAYE. From Bayonne
The town itself is of little interest to strangers. Near the har-
bour, to the right as we arrive, is the Place Louis Quatorze, with
the MaUon Louis Quatorze (Caf^ Suisse, p. 115), in which the king
lodged on the occasion of his marriage. The somewhat peculiar edi-
fice, with its two square corbelled towers, dates from the 16th century.
Farther on, to the left, is the Maison de V Infante, a large mansion
of the 17th cent., with square towers at the corners, and a double
tier of arcades on the facade. It contains two paintings by G^rome,
illustrating the marriage (no adm.). — On the left side of the Grande
Rue or Rue Gambetta is the 13th cent. Church of St. John, Like
all Basque churches, It has galleries in the nave for the men, the
area being reserved for the women. In the apse is a large gilded
reredos, in the Spanish fashion, adorned with twenty statues.
The Rue Garat , passing the £. end of the church, leads direct
to the Bay with the Bathing Place. The bay is almost circular in
shape, partly enclosed by a breakwater and piers ; it is bounded on
the right by high cliffs, and on the left by the little harbour of Socoa
with its dykes. The beach is good, but slopes rapidly and is covered
with shingle. The pretty Chalet- Casino stands near the middle of
the bay, the Orand Casino (adm. 6 fr. per week) in the Boul. Thiers
to the right, whence the Boulevard Gambetta (in which a picturesque
Moorish Villa attracts attention) leads back to the Rue Gambetta.
Socoa may be reached by following the Route d'Espagne across
the harbour, between the Maison Louis Quatorze and the station,
and then turning to the right. Turning to the left at the harbour
of Socoa, we may proceed to the main breakwater.
Fbom St. Jeam-db-Luz to the Rhdkb, an interesting excursion of 4 brs..
via AMcaiUy dH-/^ M. to the S.E., in the vallSy of the iVVveUv. The someiibat
fatiguing aseent takes ^Va hrs. and may be made on horsebaek. A guide
is advisable, as the path is not easily made out. Beyoaid the village we
ascend to the right for Vi hr., by the N. slope of the mountain; then
turning to the right we reach (Vs hr. more) a chalet; in another hour we
turn to the left beyond a second chalet, and sigzag to the top. The Rhuae
(2950 ft.), the first mountain of any Importajnce at the W. end of the Pyre-
nees, on the frontier of Spain, afforda a splendid *View^ extending over
the valleys on the N. W. to the Atlantic and from W. to JB. over a suc-
cession of mountains heginning with the Pena de Aya (Fr. Haya) and
ending in the Pie du Midi d» Bigorre (p. 157)., about 90 M. in a straight
line. The Rhune, on which there are still remains of fortifleations, was
the objee of desperate encounters in 1813, at the close of the Peninsular
War. It was not taken, but Oeneral Clauzel had to abandon it when his
position was turned on the B. by the Spaniards and threatened on th«<
W. by WelUngton.
The line next crosses the Nivelle, passes (15V»M.) XJrruyne
and runs through a tunnel, V4 ^> loi^S* In^ ^^^ valley of the Bidas-
soa, which affords a magnificent view. To the left, on ^anisk
territory, is the Pefka de Aya, with its three peaks (s«e p. 117); to
the right the mountain of Jaizquivel rising above a handsome modern
ch&teau, the beach of Headaye, the wide but sandy bed of the river,
and the picturesque Fuenterrabia (see p. 117).
22 M. Keadaye (Buffet; Hotel de France et d' Angietetr€y lmat%
to San Sebastian. IRUN. //. Route 17. 117
et du Commerce, both good but relatively expensive ; Hotel de la
Gare), Span. Endaya, the last station on French soil, a large but
uninteresting village, V2 M. to the left, below the station. The
liqueur manufactured here is celebrated. The Sea Batk$ (Hotel
& Casino) are situated IV4M. farther on, at the mouth of the Bi-
dassoa. The beach Is excellent.
For a visit to Fuenterrabia (see below) it is preferable and more pie-
taresqne to cross the Bidassoa by boat than to take the tramway from
Iran. Boatmen are in waiting at the station and at the hotels^ the fare is
1 fr.^ there and back, for each person. — The Bidattoa is here about 1/3 M.
wide, and 21/q M. at its mouth a little way off, near Cap du Figuier (Span.
(ktito de Higuer) which is in Spain. The navigation is, however, impeded
by sand-banks. This river forms for 8 or 9M. the boundary between France
and Spain. Higher up, on the other side of the railway-bridge, is the un-
interesting He de$ Fai$€Mi or de la Con/irenett on which yarions inter-
views between sovereigns and ambassadors of France and Spain have
taken place, and the Treaty of the Pyrenees was concluded in 1659.
Shortly after leaving Hendaye we cross the Bidassoa by a bridge
the centre of which marks the frontier of Spain.
23 Vt M. Inm (Buffet), is a comparatively modern Spanish town
with 9927 inhab., ^/^ M. to the £. of the station (tramway 10 c. ;
laggage, 10 c. per package). The church of Nuestra Senora de
Juncalf an unadorned Renaissance ediflee of the 16th cent., con-
tains an over- decorated reredos and several tombs. — Luggage is
examined here. Spanish (i. e. Greenwich) time is 10 min. behind
French time. Carriages are changed at Irun, as the gauge of the
Spanish lines is nearly one third wider than that of the French
Lines. Travellers coming from Spain change at Hendaye.
FaoM Ibun to Fubmtbsbabia, 3 K., tramway in V4 br. (fare 25 c). —
Fnenterrabia (Bdt Palau-Miramar^ on the beach; , in French Fontarabie^ a
little frontier-town, though often a victim in the wars between France and
Spain, still preserves its quaint medieval character. The principal Churchy
Grothic in style, has haditsexterionmodernissed, while within it is decorated
with that lavish luxuriance which is characteristic of Spanish churches.
The Cattillo , known as the Fnlaee of Charles Y. (adm. 35 c), was erected
by Saneho Abarca, King of Navarre, in 907, but subsequently partly re-
bailt. It bas a pictures(^ue courtyard, and the terrace commands a beauti-
fnl view. A characteristic festival is celebrated on Sept. 8th, in memory
'•f the raiaing of the siege in 1838. — The Jaizquivel (2290 ft. \ fine view),
which riaea above the town, may be ascended in IVa hour.
The Pefla de Aya (3245 ft. ; Ane view), in Fr. Ha^a or Troi* Couronneg
(from ita three peaks), may be easily ascended in 3 hrst from Irun, via a
ralley to the S., whence after 40 min. we ascend to the left. The copper-
mines on this mountain were worked by the Romans.
We next cross a tributary of the Bidassoa, and traverse a
tunnel 530 yds. long, beyond which we enter a picturesque hilly
region, ^'/s M. Lezo^BerUeria. Beyond a bridge and another
short tunnel we catch a fine view of the Bay of Pasajes, to the right.
29V2 M. Pasajei, a picturesquely-situated little fishing-village,
at the mouth of the Oyarzun, is divided into San Jtuan, on the right
bank, and San Pedro and Ancho, on the left, the last containing
the railway-staUon and large warehouses for wine.
118 //. Route 17. SAN SEBASTIAN.
34 M. San Sebaatiin. — A tedious ^octroi' exftminatlon takes place
at the station. — Hotels (all relatively expensive). ^Covtimemtal (PI. a;
F, 3), Paseo de la Concha, pens. 15 fr. \ *Is9hiiB A db Londrbs (PI. e; F, 3),
Paseo de la Concha. — Fomda Ezcvrra (PI. d; G, 2), Spanish, well spoken
of; HStel x>x Fravcb (PI. e; 0, 3)-, Cbvtral, C^alle Mayor i: Berdbjo (PI f ;
6, 3), commercial. — BestauranU. Casino (PI. F, 2), dej. 5, D. 7 i'r. (both
incl. wine); drbarta: Bourdette. — Cafir. De la Marina; Europa.
Cabs per drive 2, per hr. 3 fr. ; outside the town 5 fr. for the flrsl
hour, 31/2 fi*- e>^ch addit. hour.
San Sebastian, with 36,000 inhab., 011 the Bay of Biscay, is
the most fashionable seaside resort in Spain, and one of the most
beautifully situated watering-places in £urope. The Old Town,
almost wholly rebuilt since its destruction by fire by the British
under Graham in 1813, lies at the base of the Monte Urgull{ii80 ft,),
once an island, between the mouth of the Urumea and the *Coneha^
a noble bay, the shore of which is excellently adapted for bathing.
— The Plata de la Constitucion (PI. F, 2) is surrounded by arcaded
houses with balconies, all the windows of which are numbered in
view of the festivals celebrated in the square. The Church of San
Vicente (PI. F, 1> is an interesting Gothic edifice of 1507. — The
focus of the New Town i« the PlasM de Ouipiizcoa (PI. F, 2), with
the stately Palacio de la Diputaeidn. In the Avenida (No. 40) is
the American Internatiomd School for Oirls; and at its W. end is
the Casino (PI. F,2). — Near the W. end of the Concha is the Pala-
cio Real (PI. C, 4) or Villa Miramar, built in 1889-93 for the royal
family. — Bull-fights are held four or five times in August in the
Plaza de Toros (Pi. C, 3), opposite the Estaeidn del Norte. On these
occasions it is difficult to obtain accommodation in San Sebastiin.
- - For farther details, see Baedeker's Spain and Portugal,
18. From Bayonne to Tonlonse.
200 M. Kailway in n/g-Gl/a hrs. (fares 36 fr. 5, 24fr.35, 16 fr. 86 c.).
I. From Bayonne to Pan.
66 M. Railway in 21/2-31/3 hrs. (fares 11 fr. 85, 8 fr., 5 fr. 30 c).
Bayonne., see p. 62. — This route is on the whole less interesting
than might have been expected^ it passes at too great a distance
from the Pyrenees on the one side, and on the other stretch fertile
but monotonous plains , covered with fields of maize. Quitting
Bayonne, the line crosses the Adour, then, beyond two tunnels.
ascends the valley of that river, passing several small stations. At
(15 M.) Quiche, with a ruined castle (13th cent.; oji the right), the
Bidouze is crossed. Beyond (ITVa ^•) Sames, the valley of the
Adour is exchanged for that of its tributary , the Oave de Pauy
which is crossed shortly before (20 M.) OrthevieUe. — 21 M. Peyre-
horade is a small town with the ruins of a 15th cent, castle. To the
right is the Pic d'Anie (p. 131).
32 M. Pny6o {Buffet; Hdt, de la Oare, at the sUtion) is the
ORTH EZ . //. Rtntte IS. 119
juiiction for a branch -line to Dax (p. 62). On the left bank of the
river is (V4M. ; 3V2M. from Salies, p. 119) the village of Bellocq,
overlooked by the ruina of a chAteau.
From Put6o to St. Palais, I8V2 M., railway in 11/4-11/2 h'- if^rts
3 fr. S^^ 3 fr. Jt5, 1 fr. 50 c). •— The line eroases the Oave dt Pan »nd passes
through a tunnel TSSyds. In length. — 5M. Saliaa - d« • Btan (GrandHdUl
du Part; de la Paix H ConHn4nial; de Pari*; du Chdteam; de France et
d'Angleterre ; BelleHUe; Beaiu4J0ur}^ a town of 6137 inbah., owes its name
to its salt springs, which have been utilised from a very early date and
are among the richest in salt known. The springs are cold, and are
used both for drinking and bathing all the year round. — The line now
crosses the Oovt d^iUoron and ascends its valley. I21/2 M. AuitieUe is
the junction for Mauleon (sea below). -~ From (I81/3 M.) Bt. PalaJa (H&i.
de la Paixi det Antbauadwrs) a diligence (fare 81/3 fr.) plies once daily
via (10 H.) Lareeveau to (19V2 M.) <SL Jean-Pi^d-dt-Port (p. 66).
From Put6o to MAuiiioy, 28I/3 M., railway in I1/4-3 hrs. (fares 5 fr.
15, Sir. 50, 3 fir. 95 c). As far as (121/2 M.) Auttvitlle, see above. -
15 M. 8anTat«rre^e-Btom (Roipide; T/uonvUle)^ a small town with consid-
erable remains of a chateau of the 13- 13th cent., a church in the Ro-
manesque and Gothic styles, and a ruined bridge with a tower of defence
(14th cent.), affording a splendid view of the Pyrenees. [Fiom Saotctbire
TO Oloron, 35 M., railway in 31/4 hrs. This new line ascends the valley
of the Gave d'Olaron, vi& (6 M.) Narp-Monfori and (11 M.) Navarrenxl —
Oloron^ see p. 190.] — The Haul^on line then ascends the valley of the
Saison. — 2&t/2 M. Maolten (ffdt. Habiague)^ an uninteresting little town on
the Saison. A diligence-route leads hence to (8 M.) Tardetn (796 ft. : Hot.
des Voyageurs) and (251/2 M.) Otoron (p. 130). From Tardets the Pic d'Orhw
(6615 ft.), affording a splendid view, maybe ascended via (10 M.) Larrau
in 31/2 hrs.
Beyond (36 M.) Baigts the valley becomes picturesque. Then,
to the right, the old bridge of Orihez, and, to the left, —
41 M. Orthei (Or and- Hotel), a finely situated town of 6314 inhab.
on the right bank of the Gave de Pau.
Orthez was in the 13th cent, the capital of Beam, and until 1460 the
residence of the viscounts. Afterwards it became a focus of Protestantism,
under the protection of Jeanne d'Albret, who founded a Calvinistie college
here, in which Theodore Beza was a teacher. One fourth of the in-
habitants are to this day Protestants. Marshal Soult was defeated by
Wellington on the neighbouring hills in 1814.
The only lions of Orthez are the medieval Bridge across the
Gave, with a tower at its centre, and the Toutr de Honcade, a
remnant of the chateau of the viscounts of B^arn. There is a fine
view of the Pyrenees from the higher parts of the town.
62V2 M. Lescar, though now it has only 1630 inhab., was a
town of importance in the 16th cent., and long the seat of a bishop.
The cathedral dates from the 12th and 16th cent. , the castle partly
from the 14th. Lescar perhaps occupies the site of the ancient
Beneharnumj which gave name to the old province of Beam.
66 M. Pau (BuiTet, d^j. 3, D. 31/2 fr.), to the left.
Pan. — Hotels. Those of the first class are palatial establishments, admir-
ably situated, and providiBg every comfort, at a corresponding tariff. *HdT.
Gassiov (PI. a; D, 4), Boul. desPyr€il6es, B. from 5, B. U/s, d^. 4, I>.5,
pens, from I2V21 omn. 1 fr. (the Hot. d'Angleterre at Cauterets is a depen-
dance of this house) ^ •Hot. db France (Pi. b \ D, 4), Place Boyale 3, R. from 3,
B. li/j^ d<j. 4, D,« fr. \ H6t. 8plbii1>id«, Bbllb-Vub, Boul. des Pyr<n*e8,two
120 //. Routt 18.
PAU.
From Bayonne
hotels meubl^s; Graxp-Hot. du Pae/Aib bt BxAV-SijouK (PI. e; £,4), Boul.
des Fjrinies 1, In the S.E. outskirts of the town, IL 3-6, B. IVd, d^i. 4, D. 4l/s,
pens. 10-15, omn. Va fr-i i>« la Paix (PI. d; D, 4), Place Royalc-, Ghakd-
HoTEL (PI. e ) D, 2), Bue O'Quin, with rooms looking to the S. The above
are specially for families passing the winter at Pan. >- Cbmtral, Place de
la NQuvelle lisUe 20 (PI. D, 3), B. from S, d^J. 8, D. 4. pens, from 9 fr. -, Hot.
DE LA Posts (PI. f ; C, 3, 4), Place de Gramont, B. 3-0, B. IV^i d4j. 81/2^
D. 4, pens. B, omn. 1/2 f'-* ^^H spoken of : du C«ommbrcb (PI. g ; D, 4), Rue de
la Prefecture 9, B. from Ws, B. 1, dej. 3, D. 31/2, omn. Vs fr.; pb l*Eu-
ROPB BT DB LA DoKADB (PI. h; D, 4), samo Street 3; Hot. Hbkbi Qdatbb
(PI. i; £,3), Place de la Nourelle Halle, B. 3-4, B. 1, d<i. 3, D. 3l/s, omn.
1/3-3/4 fr-i ^ell spoken of; des PTR^tes (PI. j,; D, 4), Place de la Nouvelle
Halle, d^j. 2i/s, D. 3, pens. 8-12 fr. ; Pommb-d'Or, Rue de la XouTclle Halle 11,
unpretending, B. from 1, di\. or D.2fr. — Penaiene: ifofters2ey(from 7ffr.),
Avenue Gaston Phoebus (PI. C,2) ; Colbert, Rue Kanescau (Pi. G, D,2; 8-19 fr.).
Apartmenta aad Fumiaked Villaa in great number in the town and
suburbs from 400 to 10,000 fr. for the season, which lasts from September
to Hay or June. For further particulars apply to the Spndieat, Rue Latapie 31 .
Its information is impartial and gratuitous; and it is also ehargea with
the settlement of differences between strangers and inhabitants. In hiring
houses an inventory should be demanded.
Cafta-Rettauxantat Grand -Ca/i, Place Royale 6; Gmlroi, Place de la
Nouvelle Halle ; du Conuneree, Bue de la Prefecture.
Cabs.
(Night tariff after 10 oVlock)
With one horse
Day
Ifr. -
Night
With two horses
Day
Ifr. 36
76
Night
2fr. —
75
50
Drive within the octroi-limits 1 fr. — 1 fr. 26
> of 3 kil. (2 M.) beyond the
octroi 1 » 25 1 » 75 1
Per hour within radius of 3-8 kil 1 « 76 2 » — 2
.8-13 •(5-7VjM). 2 . — 2 » 60 8 • 60 3 » —
Luggage. 1 trunk 25 c.-; more, GOc
Tramways (eomp. the Plan), 10 e., with correspondance, 16 e. — Steam
Tramway from the Place de la B^publlque to (W/%U..^ in 1 hr. 34min.)
Pontacq, vi& Etpoey.
Post and Telegraph Of&et, C!ours Bosquet and Rue Gambetta (PI. £, 3).
Caaino. Palaii d'Hiver (PI. £, F, 4), at the Pare Beaumont (p. 133), with
restaurant, theatre, card-rooms, reading-room, covered garden,etc. (adm. 3 fr.
in winter, 1/3 fi"- in summer). — Clubs. Anglai*, Place Royale, H6tel de France
(42 fr. per month); de VUniony Place Royale; Naiionaly Rue de la Prefecture.
Baths. Grand Etabli»$ement HydrotMrapique, Rue d'Orl^ans, 13 and 15 ;
also at Rue Alexandre Taylor 10.
ReaiUnf Roems. La/on, Rue Henri Quatre ; Leuudi, Rue de la Prefec-
ture 17; Ribaut, Rue St. Louis 6.
Amusements. Horse Baces^ in winter, 2l/s M . to the N. — Te»ni$ Court,
In the Pare Beaumont (p. 133). — Frftodrom« (cycling-track; PI. E, 4), near
the railwav-station. — Laten Teimii, Polo, and Golf, in the Plaine de Billere,
to the W. of the Pare du Ghftteau (PI. A, 3); apply at the Cerele Anglais
— Fox Hunting, organised by the British community.
British Yiee-Oonsul: Ur. A. R. Whiteteay.
Enflish (Thurch Berviees. St. Andrevo't Church., Rue O^Quin (services
from October to May); chaplain, iter. B. H. Dyke Aelemd-jyotU, M. A. —
Christ Church; ehaplain, Rev, A. C. Mofuton. — Holy Triniiy Ohuroh; chap-
lain, Rev. 0. H. Cheadle.
Pau (620 ft.), a town of 34,692 inhab., and the old capital of
Beam, is now the chief town of the department of the Ba»»es-
Ppren/es. It occupies a splendid site on the right bank of the Oare
de Pau^ and enjoys a delicious climate which renders it preeminent
as a winter-resort, high in favour with the English,
to Toulouse, PAU. //. R<mte 13. 121
The mean temperature is 44** Fahr. in winter and 61** Fahr. for the
whole year, t. e., lower than the means of Rome, Hyferes, Cannes, Hen-
tone, and Ifiee, to all of which, however, Plan is superior in its freedom
from ehronie winds, espeeially the £. (except in summer), in the dryness
of its air, and in the equability of its temperature. Life at Pau is much
quieter than at Nice, and its ealm atmosphere and surroundings are no
IMS benefieial to invatids. Pau ie specially suited for those suffering
from nervous affections, though it is also frequented by consumptives.
Pau sprang up round a castle of the viscounts of Beam, dating
originally from about the 10th cent, and rebuilt in the 14th by Gaston
Phebas. It did not become a capital « however, until the loth cent.,
bat it attained great infeportanee when its ^ seigneur^ Fran(Ois Ph^bus
was made King of Xavarre in 1479, and still more, when, in 1527, his
third successor Henri d^Albret espoused Margaret of Valois, sister of
Francis I. of France. This charming and witty princess gathered round
ber a brilliant court in which the Oalvinists were well received. The
successors of Henri and Margaret were Antoine de Bourbon and Jeanne
d'Albret, under whom and their son, afterwards Henri IV of France,
the zenith of prosperity was reached. Jeanne d*Albret was no ordinary
woman ; she had *'l ame enti^re aux ehoses viriles* and sang a Beamaise song
wMle giving birth to her son , in order, as his father said, that he might
he ^Bi plenrenr ni rechign^'. Antoine on his part carried off the infant
to rab Ma lips with a clove of garlic, and to give him a taste of the local
Jaran^on wine. Jeanne had become a Calvinist, as was her son up to
the time of his accession to the throne of France (1593) ; and Beam had
its share of suffering during the Religious Wars. Still, under the protec-
tion of Henri IV and during the regency of his sister Catherine, the Cal-
vinifltic worship was maintained, but Louis XIII. put an end to the claims
of the states of Beam by personally interfering and annexing the country
to the crown in 16!20. Besides Henri IV, Pau counts among its natives
Marshal aassion (1609-47) and Beraadotte (1764-1844), who became King
of Sweden.
The railway - station (PI. D , 4) is at the foot of the plateau on
which the town is built. Carriages have to make a long detour,
bat foot-passengers ascend by a zigzag path to the —
Flaee Boyale (PI. D, 4) , a spacious square bordered by line
buildings and adorned since 1843 with a marble Statue of Henri IV,
by Raggi, with bas-reliefs by £tex and a B^arnais inscription, it
is chiefly noted, however, for the superb **Panorafna which it com-
mands of the valley of the Gave and the Pyrenees.
The plain through which the river winds is dotted with villages and
villas, giving it a very animated appearance (the liarge building in th^
middle is the stud-farm of G^los). Behind are eminences covered with
nneyards &nd woods, and the background is formed by the majestic chain
of the Pyrenees, visible for a length of about 60 miles. The most con-
spieuous of the summits (the most distant of which are 50 miles away)
is the Pic du Midi d'Ossau (p. 183), in reality two peaks, 9465 ft. and
^50 ft. in height, presenting a bolder and more abrupt appearance than
<he others in the advanced rank to the right. On the left, near the other
end of the chain, rises the conical Pic du Midi de Bigorre (9410 ft ), and
near the centre is the amphitheatre of the Vignemale, with its glacier
{10,8a0ft.;p.l47).
To inspect the town we follow the terrace and the Boulevard des
Pyrtn^es to the W. from the Place Royale, passing behind St. Mar-
tin's Church (PL D,4), a handsome modern edifice by BobswIU-
wald in the Gothic style of the 13th century.
The^Cafttle (PL C,4), rebuilt, as we have said, in the 14th cenL^
but considerably altered since, and restored in the 19th cent., rises at
122 //. RouU 18. PAU. From Bayonne
the W. end of the town, near the confluence of the Gave and the U^das
rivulet. It is huilt in the form of an irregular pentagon with six
square towers. Entering on the side next the town, we cross a stone
bridge which under Louis XV. replaced the drawbridge over a
moat now filled by a fine row of trees. To the left is the Chapely
built in 1840. The Renaissance Portico, farther on, dates from
1859 - 64. On the left again is the Tour de Oaston Phoebus , or
keep, 110ft. high; to the right, the Tour Neuve, built under Na-
poleon III. , and the Tour Montauzet or Monte^Oiseau, so called
because there was formerly no staircase , and in case of siege the
defenders ascended into it by ladders which they drew up after
them. The other towers are the Towr Bilhere, to the N. W., and the
Tours Mazeres, to the S. W., one of which was erected under Louis
Philippe. — The interesting S. fagade of the Cour d'Honneur dates,
with its tasteful dormer-windows, f^om the Renaissance.
The interior of the castle may be visited every day, in summer
from 10 to 5, in winter from 11 to 4. A guide accompanies the
visitor. The entrance is at the end of the court.
Gboumd Flock. — SaUe des Gardes :{ine antique vaulting; modern furoi-
ture; paintings. — Salle dt Manger de* Princes: vaulting; two buffeta of
the 16th cent. ; statues of Henri IV and Sully ; Sevres vase. — SalU a
Manger des Souverains^ sueeessi vely Salle d'Armes, Salle des Etats de B«Sarii.
and & stable (in 1793): Flemish tapeatry from the Chateau de Madrid in
the Bois de Boulogne at Paris representing hunting-scenes in the rea^
of Francis I. ; good statue of Henri IV, by Francheville (1625). — The
Orand Staircase is an interesting work of the Benaissance.
First Floor. — Salle d^AttentCy Gobelins and Flemish tapestry^ table
of Francis I., with slab of Pyrenean marble, etc. — Salon de RicepHon^ pain-
fully associated with the massacre of six Roman (3atholie nobles of B^am
by order of Montgomery, the general of Jeanne d^Albret; Benaissance
chimney- piece; Flemish tapestry (continuation of the hunting-scenes on
the groundfloor) ; 16th cent, table, and a casket with a medallion of
Henri' IV; table inlaid with mosaic of porphyry and Swedish agate,
presented by Bemadotte; Sevres vases. — Salon de FamiUe: Gobelins
tapestry; table with slab of Swedish rose - porphyry , another gift of
Bemadotte. — Chambre h Gaucher du Souverain: fine mantelpiece, Flemish
tapestry , antique furniture ; statue of Henri IV as a child , after Bosio :
Gothic arm-chair and chest; fine chest of the 16th century. — Houdoir d€ ta
Reine: pictures in Gobelins tapestry, Venetian glass. — Chambre a Cotscher
de la Reine: antique furniture ; magnificent Renaissance cabinet.
Sbcomd Yloor ok S. Side. — Rooms I -III. Gobelins and Flemish
tapestry; two chests of Henri II (R. II) and one of Francis I.; cabinet
of Louis XIII; bronae fire-dogs of the 16th century. — Bedroom of
Henri IV^ shown as the one in which he was born, 14th Pec, 1553, and
containing his cradle made of a large tortoise-shell; Brussels taoestry;
antique bed ornamented with 64 paedallions and bust-portraits and 12 small
figures; crystal chandelier of the time of Francis I.; Gothic chest, upon
which is a statuette of Grillon, the friend and comrade of Henri IV;
equestrian bas-relief of Henri IV, by G. Pillon. — Chamber of Jeanne
d'Atbret , Gobelins and Flemish tapestry , bed of 156S, etc. — Corridor,
beautiful *Flemish tapestry of the loth cent., representing the Life of John
the Baptist. — The other apartments, uot shown^ are of little interest
to strangers.
We now descend by the arcade near the keep. On this side,
lower down, is the ruined Tour de la Monnaie. On the terrace
to Toulouse. PAU. //. Route 18. 123
behind the castle is a marble Statue of Oaston Phoebus, by Triquety.
A bridge leads hence to the Quinconce de la Basse-Plante, beyond
which extends the Park, a charming promenade, much frequented by
visitors. — In the Place Grasdont (PI. C, 3) is the Statue of Marshal
Bosquet (1810-1861), by Millet de Marcilly, erected in 1894.
The Church of St. James (Pi. D, 3), on theN. of the town, beyond
the small ravine of the H^das, is an attractive modern building
(1866-68) in the Gothic style of th« 13th century. The adjoining
Palais de Justice (1847-55) is a heavy building in the classical
style. Til the Plaf-e Duplaa, behind, is a Statue of Marshal Bour-
baki (1816-97), by Millet de Marcilly (1899).
The Rue Serviez, a little farther to the right, ends in the Place
de la Halle, not far from the Place Royale.
The HxLB^B (PI. E,3), reached via the Rue de la Nouvelle-Halle,
is open to the public on Sun. and Thurs, from 1 to 4 or 5, but is
accessible on other days also. Catalogue (1891), 1 fr.
Groitnd Floor. Casts from the antique and some modern sculptures.
Other modem sculptures in the pioture-gallery upstairs. — On the stair-
case: 148. Vaffltir^y Henri IV at Notre -I>ame, on the day of his entry
into Paris.
First Floor. Paintings. Room I, to the left: 131. Deviriay after fttt-
htns, Tomyris and the head of Cyrus. — 118. Bcusano (?), Christ with the
reed-, 147. J. F. de Troy, Hme. de Miramion (d. 1696), foundress of the
order of Miramionnes ; 132. Rigaudy Lute-player; no number, Zurbaran^
Drunkenness of l(oah; 113. Mongin'ot^ Duet-, 89. Boet the Elder, Golden Calf;
SD. L. Oeupil, Good Friday; 171. Unknoum Artist, Singing to the guitar;
163. Zurbaran^ Portrait of a mitred .abbot ; no number, Franek (?), Cruci-
fixion; 93. Jordaetu, Author mediatting; 152. C. Vemet, Sea-piece; 115.
Ottdry, Stag-hunt; 15. MoreUOy Portrait; 93. Jcrdaent, Woman with a ewer;
153. Tenter* the Elder ^ Landscape; 43. Dehodencq, Bull-fight; Rubent, 139.
Thetis demanding arms for Achilles from Vulcan, 130. Death of Hector; 106.
MqtoM, John the Baptist; 87. B. van der Heltt, Portrait. — Boom II: En-
gravings, drawings, coins, etc. — Room III: 44. Deviria, Birth of Henri IV
(replica of the original in the Louvre) ; 18. Bordet, Attila consulting the
augnrs befoi« the battle of Chalons; 131. B»bot, Good Samaritan; L. Cap-
deveUe, 55. Spanish card-players, 39. Marriage at Laruns; no number, E.
DegaSj Handling cotton at New Orleans; 155. E. Duet, St. Francis of Assisi;
16. Bordes, Concierge and tailor; 133. Roll, Hawker; 58. Falguiire, The
Magdalen. — Boom IV: Modern French paintings. — Boom V: EngraV'
ings and drawings. — Rooms VI A VII : Natural history collection ; cos-
tumes from the Pyrenees.
A little to the S.E. of the Mus6e lies the Pare Beaumont (PI. F,
4), a fine public garden, containing the Renaissance Palais d'Hiver
(p. 120), built in 1899, and a bronze statue of Jeliotte^ the minstrel
(1713-97), erected in 1901.
From Pau to Bordeaux, see p. 62; to Oloron (Valine d'Aspe), see R. 19;
to Eaux-Bonnei and EauX'Ckaudes, see R. 30.
II. From P^tt to Lourdes.
24 M. Railway in 40-65 min. (fares 4 fr. 50, 3 fr., 1 fr. 95 c). Best
views generally to the right. — Tickets may be obtained at any of the
stations, permitting the traveller to break the journey at Lourdes for not
more than 24 hours. "
Beyond Pan we continue to ascend the valley of the Gave de Pau.
124 //. Route 18. LOURDES. Fr<m\, Bayonnt
71 M. (ftrom Bayonne) Asiat, — 76 M. Coarraze- Nay, Coarnue, on
the left of the line, is the place where Henri IV was brought up
in the simple fashion of the peasants, running about bare -footed
and bare-headed. Nay, on the left bank of the Gave, is an in-
dustrial town with 3636 inhab. , producing a large proportion of
the bonnets worn by the inhabitants of the Pyrenees, and also
Turkish fezes. — 78 M. Vufau,
80 M. Montaut'Bttharram. Bttharram (Hdt. de France), */, M.
from the station, is a resort of pilgrims, dating from the time of the
Crusades. It lies on the left bank of the Gave, which is here spanned
by a picturesque ivy-clad bridge. On the other side are the church
and Lestelle, with the hotel. The Church (17th cent.) is remarkable
for the richness and bad taste of its decoration. Beside it is a series
of Romanesque Chapels (of ancient origin but restored in the i9th
cent.), marking the Stations of the Cross, and containing sculptured
groups. On the top of the hill are a Mt. Calvary and a Church of
the Resurrection, — The Orotte de Betharram, about 1^4 M. to the
S., is one of the finest caverns in France.
The route now becomes for some distance very interesting. After
passing (84 M.) St, Pe{St. Pierre), a small town to the left, we obtain
a striking view to the right of the pilgrimage-churches , the grotto,
and the town and castle of Lourdes.
90 M. LonrdM (* Buffet). — Hot«U (previous arrangement desirable) .
Royal (PI. a; B, 2)., B. from 4, d6j. Si/s, D. from4fr.-, x>*AiieLSTUBB (Pl.b;
B, 3), B. 6, B. 1, d^j. 4, D. 41/3. pens. 12-16 fr.; ds Loosdbs (PI. e; B, 3);
DB LA Ghapbllb (PI. d; B, G, 3), B. 3-4, B. 1, d^j. 3, D. 4. pens. 10-12,
omn. 1/2 fr. ••, Hdr. Hbibs bt du Bovlbvard (PI. f ; C, 3), B. 3-6, B. ii/j,
d^j. 3Va, D' 41/21 pens. 12 fr. ^ all these in the Arenne de la Orotte, be-
tween the otd town and the square in frost of the pilgrimage -ehurehes.
— Nearer the town: "Hot. db la Orottb (PI. g; D, 3), well situated
below the W. side of the castle, with garden, B. from 3, B. 1. d6j. 3, D.
31/s, pens. 10 fr.; Bbllb-Vub (PI. h; D,3), pens. 8V9 fr.; dbs Ambbicaiks
(PI. i: D, 3, 4); HdT. DBS Avbassadbubs (PI. k; D,2), B. from 3, B. 1.
de). 3V)i D- 4, pens, from 10 fr. ; Bichblibc (PI. 1; D, 2); Coktihbiital
(Pi. m; D, 2)', Bblob (PI. n; D,2); St. Josbpr (PI. o; D, 2); db i«*Abob-
Gardibv; d» Sacb^-Oocub (PI. p; D«2), B. 2-21/2, B. S/4, dej.3, D. Sl/^ fr.:
all in the street leading from the station to the square (the first two with
a view of the churches). — In the town : H6tbl dd Commbbcb (PI. q ; E,
2,3), near the parish - church, B. 21/2-3, B. 1, d^j. 3, D. 3fr.; db Pabi^
(PI. t; E, 3); DBS pTRiwi^Bs (PI. r; F, 4), db Fbakcb (PI. •; B, 4), near (lir
Place Nareadal; Beau-S^our. near the station.
Cabs, from the station to town or vice versa, 60 c. each pers. ; piT
hr. is/4fr., with two horses 21/2 fr., landau 31/2 fr.; at night oOc. extra.
Trunk, 30 c.
Tramway* (uniform fare 16 c.) from the station to the Basilica and
the Marcadal; from the station to Soum (p. 138; cable - railway up the
Pic de Jer, p. 126).
Post and Telegraph OfAee, behind the parish-church, to the left.
Lourdes is a small town of 7758 inhab., on the right bank of the
Gave du Pau, at the point where the river, descending from the valley
of Argeles, turns abruptly W. towards the plain. It is built at the
foot of a hill on which stands an ancient Cattle (PI. D, £,2,3), whirh
formerly commanded the entrance of the valley and was often be-
t» "t
\_
>.i l' '- '-^j
i u It i
Iff
4)1
iM/ J-
126 J/. BotUe IS. TARBKS. From Bayonne
(PL. A, 2), about 60 ft. higher up, is a richly ornameated building
in the Gothic style of the 13th cent. , designed by Hipp. Dur&nd.
It was consecrated in 1876 in presence of thirty-five archbishops
and bishops, presided over by the Cardinal -Archbishop of Paris,
and the Papal Nuncio, who crowned the statue of the Virgin (by
Raffl). An elegant tower rises on tl^e W. front. The Interior, which
consists simply of a nave with side-chapels, is bung all over with
gold or gilded hearts, banners, medallions, inscribed tablets, and
other votive offerings. A crypt, with double nave, extends beneath
the whole length of the church.
On a hill (good view) to the S. of the Basilica stands a Calvary
(PI. A, 2, 3). In the neighbourhood of the grotto are buildings for
the use of the pilgrims, Convents, an Asylum for the Agedj an Or-
phanage, etc. The Hospice de ^otre-Dame-des-Douleurs (PI. B, 3),
or St. Frai (after its foundress), receives most of the sick pilgrims
on their arrival , and during the great pilgrimages presents a strik-
ing spectacle of human suffering.
There are ft number of other and larger grottos in the ^Mt. Calvary*.
In the (Va lil-) Spilugue (now a chapel), articles made of reindeer horn
were discovered; Vs M. farther on is the OrotU du Loup^ of great depth.
The Pic de Jer (3115 ft.) or Oer, to the S. of Lourdes, is ascended by
a cable-railway, beginning about 1/4 U. from the railway-station of Soutn
(p. 139; tramway, p. 124), and starting every Va h'- (return-fare 3 fr.). The
summit (cafd-restaurant), marked by a cross illuminated by electricity at
night, commands a magniftcent panorama.
Excursions are offten made to the (IS/4 M.) Lae de Lourde$y a moraine-
lake about 2Va U; in circumference, with erratic blocks in the vieiuity
(eaf^-restaurant). The route follows the road to Pau on the right bank of
the Gave to the church of Pouej/ferri^ where it diverges to the left.
From Lourdes to Cautereit^ St. Sauveur^ Bariges^ etc., see BR. 31, 23, 23.
III. Prom Lourdei to Toaloaie.
110 M. Railway in 4-5Va hrs- (f«res 19 fr. 80, 13 fr. 40, 8 fr. 70 e.).
93 M. (from Bayonne) Ade. Beyond (96 M.) Ossun, a small
town on the left (5 M. from Ponttzcq^ p. 120), appears the Pic dii
Midi de Bigorre (p. 157). — 99 M. Juillan.
102 M. Tarlbei {Buffet). — EfrteU. Db la Paix, r. 8i/a-4, b. I1/4,
d^j.d, D.dVafr., nse Ambassadbvss, R. 2-3, d6j. or D. 3fr., both Plaee
Maubourgoet; db Fbakcr, Place Marcadieu ; db Paris, Rue Thiers ^ dk
Strasbourg, unpretending, db la Garb, both near the station.
Caba. With 2 seats, per drive 3/4, per hr. 11/2 fr., at night 1 and 3 fr. ;
with 4 seats, 1, IV4, 2, or SVa fr-
TiorfrM (1015 ft.), with 24,197 inhab., the chief town of the
department of the Havits-Pyrentes and the seat of a bi«hop, is situ-
ated in a rich plain on the left bank of the Adour. Its importance
dates from the middle ages , when it became the capital of the
County of Bigorre. The ]$nglish occupied it only from 1360 to
1406 , but it suffered greatly during the religious wars of the 16th
cent., in which it was taken and retaken seven times.
The town contains little to interest the tourist. The Avenue
B. Barere, a few yards to the left of the exit from the station, leads
to TouUuse. TARB£S. //. Route 18. 127
«]irect to the Place Maubourguet; while the Rue de Gondriu, straight
ill front, briugs us to the Cathedral or Sede. The latter is a heavy
but onimposing building of the 12- 14th cent., the finest feature
of which is the octagonal cupola (14th cent.) above the transept.
Over the high-altar is a huge canopy. On each side of the nave
is a double tier of noteworthy wood-carving, the upper tier adorned
Nvith tasteful iron railings.
The Rue Abb^-Tom^, to the E. of the cathedral, leads to the
Place Maubourguet, the centre of the town ; and thence the Cours
Gambetta , to the S. , to the Allees Carnot, a fine promenade with
a statue in bronze of the surgeon Larrey (1766-1842) , a native of
the Hautes-Pyr^n^es. — In the E. part of the Rue Larrey is a hand-
some Theatrei
Towards the £. end of the town are two other large squares,
the Pla^e Marcadieu or market-place and the Forail or place where
the fairs are held. In the former is the large Fontaine Duvignau-
Bousigues, of considerable artistic merit, with sculptures (1893-96)
representing the local arts and industries and the animals and streams
of the Pyrenees. The Forail presents a curious sight when the
people from the mountains and also from Spain come to sell their
commodities, horses, etc. Tarbes is the chief mart for the excellent
horses of the Pyrenees.
The most interesting feature in Tarbes is the magnificent ^Jardin
Masset, 550 yds. to the N. of the Place Maubourguet, and a short
distance to the E. of the station. Though created and presented to
the town by a former director of the Gardens of Versailles, it is laid
out in the style of an English park. It is planted with exotic
trees, and threaded by streamlets, and affords a delightful prome-
i\ade. To the S. of a small lake here some 15th cent. Cloisters,
from St. Sever-de-Rustan, ISVgM. to the N.E. of Tarbes, have been
re-erected , unfortunately with some alterations. The 48 capitals
are covered with curious sculptures.
The garden also contains a small Museom, in an attractive brick
building, with a tower in the Moorish style. It is open on Sun.,
Tburs., and holidays, from 12 to 4 or 5; on other days for a gratuity.
It contains sculptures, antiquities, and natural history collections,
besides a picture gallery including examples of the Italian, Dutch,
and modern French schools. — Fine view from the Tower of the
Museum (25 c).
From Tarbes to Agen^ etc., see B. 12^ to Morcenx (Bordeaux)^ see p. 61;
to Cauterets, St.- Saktmr^ Bariffi*, ete., sec RB. 21, 32, 23; to Bctgnires-dt'
Bigorre, gee B. 24; to Ba^ntre*-40'l>uchOH, see B. 2o.
Quitting Taifbes, we pass between the Jardin Massey and the
arsenal. Beyond Marcadieu, the line tO;Bagneres-de-Bigorre diverges
to the right. Beyond two tanotels and four smail stations we cross
a curved viaduct from which there is a fine view to the right, then
another viaduct over a ravine, and ascend a steep gradient. Among
128 //. Rmite 18, ARREAU. From Bapmne
the mountains, to the right, the most conspicuous are the Pie d'Ar-
diden, the isolated Pic du Midi de Bigorre, and the triple summit
of the Pic d'Arbizon.
122 M. Capvem, station for the Baths of that name , which lie
2V4M. and 4VjM. to the N.W. (diligence, 1 fr.).
The Bains de CapTern (Grand B6UI; Beaus/jour ; Richelieu; Casino)
have two springs, impregnated with sulphate of lime, resembling those
of Bagneres-de-Bigorre (p. 16Q). The nearer and more important spring
is that of Hount-Caoudo^ the other that of Le Bouridi. There is a batb-
establishment at each.
124 V2 M. Lannemeian ( Hotel- Caf^ de la Gate).
Fbom Lamubmbzam to Abbeau-Cadeac, 16 M., railway in 50 min. (fares
2 fr. 90, 1 fr. 95, 1 fr. 90 c). This new line ascends the VatUe d'Aure,
a valley watered by the Ne$te and abounding in marble quarries of some
importance and mineral springs for the most part little known. — The
line crosses the Canal de Nette. 2 M. Labarthe-Avetac iljotfie\t,t \ Foreues)
with mineral springs. 8 M. Biehes has quarries of black marble. 13 M.
Sarraneolin is noted for its red marble veiaed with grey or yellow. — 16 H.
Arreau (2390 ft. ^ BCt. d'Angleterre)^ a small town on the Keste d*Aure and two
of its affluents, is important mainly us a centre for excursions (comp.
the Hap, p. 166). The finest is that oyer the Col d'Atpin to (7 H.) Bag-
%hre»-d«'Bigorre (comp. p. 163). This route may be continued from Arreau.
in the opposite direction, to (2OI/2 M.) Bagnkret-de-Luch<m (p. 164), \>y a
road ascending the valley of the Nesie de Louron vi4 (S^/s M.) Ave^an,
where we cross the river (leaving the old road on the right) and (SVa V)
Loudervielle ; then ascending in zigzags to the (12 M.) Port de Feyre-&mrde
(5070 ft.) and re-descending into the Vallie de VArboust, where at (16 M.)
Cazeanxde-V Arboutt (p. 167) we join the route from the Lac d*06 to Bag-
n^res-de-Luchon.
Fbom Abbbau to Abagvoust, 141/8 M., carriage-road (dilifenee to
Vielle-Aure), ascending the upper part of the Valine d'Aure, from which
various mountain - ascents may be made by the robust pedestrian. -
11/4 M. Cadiac^ an ancient village, has two bath-establishments. — 2V2 ^^
Andtan (Bellevue). 8 If . 0%ehen (2455 ft. ; ion) , whence the Pic dTArbi
ton (92L0 ft.) may be ascended in 5 hrs. (with guide). -> From (5Vs H)
▼islle Aure (B6t. Organ) numerous frontier-peaks may be ascended. The
best view is obtained from the Pic de Lustou (tf995 ft.), an excursion which
u^ually requires more than one day (aseent TVs hrs. \ guide n««essary)-
— 1 U. St. Larjf. — From (9 N.) TraxMtalgue* (3180 ft.) a road ascends
the ValUe de Rioutnajou to the (3 hrs.) Boipice de Rioutnajou^ whence iwu
mule^tracks cross the frontier into Spain. The Pie d* BtOoa (98S8 fi-i
6V8 hrs. from Tramesai'gues } with guide) commiaads a still finer view
than the Pie de Lustou. — 13 M. Catteit (3610 ft.) ; then Fatian (Chalet
Hdtel Fouga). — Ui/s M. Aragnouei (9970 ft.), the last village in the
valley.
128 M. Cantaont; 131 M. St. Laurtnt-St-Paul ; 133 M. Aven-
tignan (Grotto of Qargas , see below). We cross the Garonne siid
reach —
135 M.KontrejeauCMont-Royai'; Bufet;*Hot.du Pare, in the
town ; de France, at the station), a town of 2742inhab., V4 ^< ^^
the station , on the edge of a plateau overlooking the Garonne and
commanding a fine view. — To BagtUret-de-Luekon, see R. 25.
About 6 M. tO' the S.W. of Montr^jeaa, beyond the village of (3 Hi
AvenUgnau (see above) ^ at which the eastodian resides, ia the Oretts sf
Oargas (adm. I fr., with illumination IV2 fr. and fee), with remarkable
stalactites and stalagmites, and an arched roof more than 60ft. high.
to Toulouse. ST. GAUBENS. //. MUmie 18, 129
The B»me i$ said to be derived from a dhieftnin who used it as » pri-
son. In the 18th cent, it was the haunt of a cannibal who killed and
devoured more than thirty women of the neighbourhood.
The line now follows the valley of the Garonne and skirts the
moantains for some time, affording a series of fine views. Beyond
(139 M.) Martres'de-Riviere it crosses the river.
144 M. St. Oaudeni (*H6t. Fertile ; de France) , a town of
6651 Inhab., once very prosperous, situated on an eminence on the
right bank of the Garonne, and commanding a fine view. The Ro-
manesque Ckureh^ of the 11 -12th cent., has an imposing Gothic
portal of the 15th century. The columns have curious capitals,
and the interior is decorated with antique tapestry and modern
paintings.
About 6 N. to the S. (omnibus in summer; 1 fr. 35c.) ii the village
of £ne«iiM6 (H6t. de Londr—; de France)^ the mineral waters of which are
used both for drinking and bathing. — Pretty neighboarhood.
Near (150 M.) Lnharthe-Inard we see on the right the pic-
turesque ruins of the ChAtetiu de Montespan (^Mont^Hispan") of the
13-15th centuries. We cross the Garonne. — 155 M. St, Martory, a
place probably called, like others which bear the name MartrM,
after some martyrdom in the days of the Saracens. To the left the
old Chdteau de Montpezat, Farther on is another bridge over the
Garonne , near which' is the mouth of an irrigation canal , 40 M. in
length, constructed with the object of watering the vast plain which
extends lower down the river on the left.
kt (159 M.) BouMens (Hotel Pieard) the Garonne becomes
navigable. A visit hence, to the S., to the ruins of the Chdteau de
Roquefort (12- 13th cent.), and the fine modiern Romanesque church
of that Village takes 1V2 hr., there and back.
From Boussens to Aahu^ via St. Otrons^ see R. 36.
Near the little town of (161 M.) Mattret-Tolotane (to the left)
are the remains of a Roman villa, discovered in 1826.
169 M. St.Julien'St'Mix. St. Eliz, 1^4 M. to thoN., has a
Renaissance chiteau. The scenery becomes less interesting; the
line recedes farther and farther from the mountains.
187 M. Muret {*IIdtel de France, Place Lafayette) , on the Ga-
ronne, with 4064 inhabitants. The Church dates from the 14th
and 15th cent, but the interior has been altered in the classic
style and recently adorned with mural paintings. To the left of the
entrance is a cross from Bomarsund, presented by Marshal Niel. In
the oblong All^e Nlel are bronze statues (by St. Jean and Crauk
respectively) of the musician Dalayrac (1753-1809) and Marshal
Niel (1802-69), both nativea of Muret.
In the neigbouring plain, to the V., the array of Dom Pedro., King r>f
Atagon, marching to the succour of Toulouse ^ was io 1313 defeated by
Simon de Honffort the Elder, the king with 15-20,(XX) of his followers
being slain.
192Vi M. Portet - St ' Simon f at the confluence of the Garonne
and the Arieffe, is the junction for Foix (R. 27). On the left is the
Baedeker. Southern France. Uh Edit. 9
130 //. Bauie 19, OLORON.
loop-line connecting the line from Auch and the St. Oyprien station
at Toulouse (see p. 82). Then, crossing the Garonne for the last
time and passing (198 M.) St, Ague, we cross the 6anal du Midi,
and beyond Pont-des- Demoiselles and a short tunnel, we reach the
Gare Matabiau at —
200 M. Toulouse (Buffet), see p. 73.
19. Prom Pan to Oloron. Valine d'Aspe.
From Pau to Oloron^ 21i/s H., Railway in lV4-iVs hr. (fares S fr. 90,
2 fr. 66, 1 fr. 70 c.); thenee Duiobiicb twice a day ^ (251/9 M.) UrdOM in
61/s hrs. (fare 4 fr. 20 e.). From Urdos to (SU/j H.) Jaca^ earriage-road
(Spanish ^Courrier* from Canfranc^ fare 2 pesetas), and railway thenee
to (69 M.) ffuesca and to (46 M. farther) Swagoua.
Pau, see p. 119. — This line, which coincides at first with that to
Laruns and EauX'Bonnes (R. 20), crosses the Gave, ascends the valley
of the Nez to the S., and then turns to theW. — Beyond (5 M.) Qan
(2700 inhab.), on the left, the train mounts a considerable gradient,
and traverses successively a short tnnnel, four viaducts (the second
of which, 100 ft. high, is curved), and two more tunnels, the last
being 620 yds. in length. — At (12 M.) Bu%y (buvette), the branch
to Laruns diverges to the left (p. 133). ~ 16Vt M. Ogeu, a small
watering-place. — 18 M. Escou.
21 VzM. Oloron (892 ft.; Hdt, de la Postt; Lvustalet; de Frofnce,
at the station), the ancient Iluro, is an industrial and commercial
town of 8960 inhab., prettily situated at the confluence of the Oaves
d'Ossau and d'Aspie, which together form the Gave d'Oloron. The
station is situated in the suburb of 8te» Marie, on the left banh
of the Gave d'Aspe. The Church of Ste. Marie is a Romanesque-
Gothic building of the ll-14th'cent. , with an interesting portal
under a porch. The church of Ste. Croix, in Oloron itself, dating
from the 11th cent., has a gilded wooden altar of the 17th cent, in
the Spanish style, and in the apses are paintings by Romain Gazes.
The town has fine promenades and the remains of ramparts.
From Oloron to SauveUrrt and MauUant see p. 119.
F&OM Olokon to Jao4, 57 M. (diligences, see above). Comp.
Maps, pp. 112, 132.
The ValMe d'Aspe, to the S. of Oloron, is traversed by a good car-
riage-road, one of the best and most fteqnented of those which cross the
Pyrenees, and it is proposed to make a railwav also, which woald shorten
the journey from Paris to Madrid by about 60 mile^. The vaUoy if an-
interesting till beyond Asasp, SVs ^* ^'o°^ Oloron, and its finest parts lie
between that point and Fort d^Urdos, about 18 M . higher up. In breadth
it hardly exceeds Vs ^-^ while In many plaees It bseomes a astfe vorge
whieh the Oavs has worn in the prevailing lUaestoes.
The road follows the left bank of the Gave d'Aspe. At (1 V4 M.)
Bidos the road to (10 M.) St. Christau diverges to the left.
An omnibus plies in summer from Oloron to JS(t. Christau (1 £r. 60 e.),
affording a convenient means of traversing the uninteresting portion of
the valley, St. Christau being only about li/« K. from Asasp (p. 181).
VALL^ D'ASPE. //. Boute W. 131
St. Christaa ri005 ft.; H6t. de V EiablUsttnent de BaitUi Grand- Turf; du
Mogol; de la Fosie; furnished chalets and apartments) is a hamlet of
Lurbe (see below), prettily situated and possessing sulphureous and other
waters espeeially efficacious in diseases of the mouth and throat. — To
the S. is Afont Binet (4090 ft.), which is easily ascended in 3 hours.
Passing (3 M.) QurmeriQon and (4M.) Arros, we reach (5Vj M.)
the village of Asasp, beyond which on the left bank (bridge) is Lnirhe,
- We now leave on the right the valley of the Lourdios, and soon
enter the first gorge of the valley of the Gave.
From (OVs M.) Eacot a route crosses the Col de Marieblanque
(3025 ft.) to (3 hrs.) Bielle, in the Valine d'Ossau (p. 133).
Our road now crosses the Gave d'Aspe by the Pont d'Escot.
To the left, on a rock, is a Latin inscription of doubtful authen-
ticity, stating that the Duumvir L. Valerius Yernus twice repaired
this route. Near the bridge are the small Baths of Escot, frequented
by the natives only. — We cross two other bridges.
12 M. Sarrance (1190 ft.; inn), with a pilgrims* shrine and a
ruined convent. As we continue to ascend the vall0y we pass sue-
cftssively a waterfall, the Pont Su&on, the Cirque d'Ourdinsef to the
left, with the Pic de Mouste (5235 ft. , ascended from B^dous in
4^2 hrs.), and a second gorge.
i5Vt ^* Bedovs (H6t. de la Paix) , situated in a basin which
DQust have formed a lake before the waters of the torrent had
sufficiently scooped out the gorge. The hillocks in this basin are
composed of ophite, a volcanic product.— A path, difficult in places,
leads hence to Laruns (p. 133) in 7 hrs. via Aydiua and the Col de
las Argues (about 5600 ft.).
Farther on, in the valley of Aspe, is Suberlaehe, a small water-
ing-place, with chalybeate au4 sulphur springs.
ITVs ^* Accous (1470 ft.) is supposed to be the Aspa Lnica of
the Romans. On a knoll is a column erected to the memory of
the popular poet Despourrins (1693-1742). A path, affording fine
views, leads hence in 4-5 hrs. to Eaux-Chaudes over the Col d*heye
(about 6560 ft.).
The valley again narrows to a gorge , midway in which is the
?ont d'Esquit, boldly spanning the torrent. Travellers bound for
Urdos cross neither this nor the next bridge. — 20 M. Pont de
Lficun, leading into the valley of that name.
The Gave de Leseun forms a picturesque waterfall ^ near a cottage,
about i/s H. from the bridge (50 c). The hamlet of Latenn (3960 ft. ; Hotel}
is about s/4 M. farther on \ and in the neigbbourhood are the little Baihs
0/ Xo&erott , with warm sulphur-springs. The comparatively easy and
interesting ascent of the *Pic d^Anie (8315 ft. \ guide, 15 fr.) may be made
from Leseun in 4-41/3 hrs. We ascend the Hourque de Laugay a valley
to the right, and beyond the huts of (21/4 hrs.) Munt (5900 ft.), we climb
alongside the streamlet that descends from the mountain, leaving on the
right the rlhr.) little Lae d'Anie^ thus skirting the peak from E. to W.
The magnificent panorama from the summit is olie of the most striking
in the Pyrenees. The double Pie du Midi d'Ossau (p. 138), only 15 H.
aistant towards the S. £„ specially attracts attention by its abrupt outlives.
Passing (20 Vt M.) Cette-Eygun and (22 M.) Etsaut, the road
9*
132 tl. Route 19. LE'SOMPORT. VaU/e d'Atpe.
again crosses the torrent, by the Pont de Sehers, and enters a gorge
at the end of which, on the left, rises (24 M.) the *Fort d' Vrdo* or
the Portals (2605 ft.), presenting a striking and picturesque appear-
ance. This fort, constructed in 1838-48, is to a great extent
built on a rook overhanging the torrent, and Is reached by no less
than 506 steps. All that is visible is a frontage flanked by two tur-
rets and some walls, only distinguishable from the rocks by their
embrasures; but within there is accommodation for 3000 men,
Recrossing to the right bank by the Pont d*Enfer, at the foot of
the fort, we enter another small basin about 3 M. long.
25V4M. Vr&OB (2493 ft.; Hdtel Ferras), the last French village.
From Urdoa to Gabas, by a mnle-traek in 6, and by a fbotpatb in
5 hoavB. The former pa««e0 to the K. of the Pic» 4« Lorrp (78fiO ft.) and
dTAyoui (7585 ft.), and leads over the Col dTAas de Bielle (7105 ft.; 4 brs),
beyond which there is a splendid view of the Pic du Midi d^Ossau (p. 138) ;
then past the saw-mill of ni(nu-Artigue$ (p. 188), whence Oabas is reached
in an. hour. — The footpath ascends to the 6. of the> Fie Sonrguette
(7820 ft.) to the (3 hrs.) Col de Bious, to the V. of the Ac de Moines
(8012ft.). Here, too, the Pic du Midi is in view. We descend by the
saw-mill.
27V2 ^* Hospital, in ruins; then another gorge , followed by
a small basin and (28V2 ^0 ^^^ Auberge du PeUlou, beyond which
is (30 M.) a desetted Foundry, The road then separates from a path
that continues to the right up the valley, at the end of which, on the
left, the Pic d'Aspe (8880 ftO is conspicuous. We pass two inns.
33 M. Le Somport or Port efUrdos (5380 ft.) on the frontier,
the Summus Portus of the Romans, through which passed the road
from Caesarea Augusta (Saragossa) to Iluro (Oloron). A part of the
army of Abd-er-Rahman , which was defeated by Charles Martel in
732, invadedFrance by this route. The view from the col is limited
and the surroundings are bare and gloomy.
Fro« Lb Somport to Oaba«, 6 hrs., by a path which passes to the S. of
the Pic 4'Amouue (7020 ft.) aqd over the (iVa hr.) Ool de$ Jfotmet (JVO fi.h
beyond which we descend, in view of the majestic Pie du Midi, and joio
the path ttom the Col de Bious (see above).
The road now descends in zigzags on the Spanish side, passing
first the ruins of the hospital of Santa Cristina, and thep an inii.
- 40 M. Ckapelle St. Antoine; 43 M. Portaltc; 44 Vj M. Spalung.
46 M. Canfranc (3410 ft.; Hotel Sisas), a small place on the
right bank of the Aragon, above which rises an ancient castle. —
Farther on are two highly picturesque gorges , between which, on
the left, rises the P^a-CoUarada (9460 ft.; ascended in 5 hrs.v
the summit of which affords an extensive view. — 48V«M. VUlanua,
52 M. CastULio,
57 M. Jaca (2686 ft.; *Casa Mur), a walled town, with 3800 in-
habitants. The interesting Cathedral dates from the 14-15th cent;
the Citadel (fine view from the top) from the 16th. — A railway runs
hence to (69 M.) Huesea, the chief town of the province, and to
(46 M. farther) Sarago$sa (see Baedeker*s Spain and Portugal),
133
20. Eanx-Bonnes, EanxrChandes, and their Environs.
I. From Fan to Eftox-Bonnoft and Eaaz-ClMnidoi.
Railway to Cii M.) l,»runs in IV4-IV4 *»>" (fares 4 fr. 35, 2 fr. 95, 1 fr.
90 e.); thence rail m ay-omnibus to (4M.) Eaux-Bonnes and Eaux-Chaudes,
in 55 min. (fare Ifr.'SQc.)^ other vehicles outside the station cheaper.
Best view from seats in the banquette. Landau for 4 pers., 8 fr.
From Paw (p. 119) to C1!2M.) Buzy, see p. 130. — Leaving the
line to Oloron on the right, we approach the Gaved'Ossau, and
cross it by means of a viaduct, 100 ft. in height. — 16 M. Arudy
(Hdtel du Centre), to the left, a place of some size.
The *Yall<6 d'Osaau begins here and extends S. to Oabas (p. 137),
a distance of about 16 H. Sometimes, however, the name is restricted
to the part between Arudy , where the Gave d^Ossau turns to the W. in
the direction of Oloron , and Laruns (see below) ^ where it descends
from Eau^-Chaudes and is joined by the Valentin, which comes from
Eaux-Bonnes. The valley ofOssau is one of the most picturesque in the
Pyrenees, although the mountains which flank it have been to a great
extent stripped of their woods since the IBth century. At the upper eud
is the Camous Pic du Midi d^Ossau ; at the end of the lateral valley the Pic
de Ger (p. 135), celebrated for its panorMn». The valley, in wLieh
lie Eaux-Bonnes and Eaux-Chaudes , watering-plaees of the first rank,
is separated from the Vall6e d'Aspe (p. X'dO) only by a minor chain of
hills, easy to cross and affording fine excursions. — The valley of Oseau,
like that of Aspe, once formed a small commonwealth, which retained its
privileges for a long time after its annexation to B^am, and for still longer
its peevliar manners and Costumes. Traces of both still linger in the
more sequestered parts of the valley. Curious costumes are still to be
seen at Laruns on holidays, especially on the festival of the Assumption
(Aug. ISth). The hoods worn by the women are characteristic.
At (17 V2 M.) Iteate the valley begins to form a pictnresque gorge.
Here there is a grotto interesting alike to geologists and to ordinary-
tourists (10 fr. for 1 or more persons). — 20 M. Bielle (Auberge
des Voyageurs), the ancient capital of the viscounts of Ossau. The
Gothic church (15 -16th cent.) has some line sculptures. Near It
are some curious houses of the same date. ^ To Eseot, see p. 131.
21 M. Pont'de-Beon. We now reach the mountains, and tra-
verse two short tunnels. To the left lie Louvie and Soubiron, with
abandoned quarries of Ossau malrble.
24 M. Lanmo (1650 ft. ; Hotel des Touristes), with 2063 inhab.,
has marble quarries of high repute.
Farther on to the right our road leaves the old road to Eaux-
Chaudes via the Hourat (p. 135), recommended to pedestrians on
account of the view. Beyond a bridge over the Gave d'Ossau we
reach the (25V2 ^O point where the I^ew Roads to Eaux-Bonnes
and Eaux-Chaudes diverge. For the latter, see p. 136. That to
Eaux-Bonnes leaves the old and steep road below on the left, and
ascends the N.E. flank of the Oourzy (p. 135) in zigzags, aflfording
flue views : behind, Laruns and its valley ; on the Lett, the valley of
the Valentin and the Montague- Verte ; in front and on the right,
the Latte de Bazen, the P^nem^daa, and tlie Pic de Ger (p. 135).
Eaux-Bonnes is not visible until we are close to it.
134 11. Route 20. EAUX - BONNES.
n. E&tut-BoniKei.
Hotels. Gbaho-Hotbl dbb PbhcMj B. fit, B. UA, ^^. 81/^ D. 41/9, pena.
11 fr. \ DB FsAKCB, B. from 2. B. II/9, di). 31/2, D. 4Vs fr. ; Hot. Covtiubntal,
B. 3-6, B.3/4, d^j- 3, D. 3Vai pens. 10 fr.; db Paris; d*Obib«t bt d^Bu-
ROPB ; DOA8SANS ; D*AmoLETBRRB et D^ESPAGVB ; DB LA POSTB; DBS PtR^hAbs ^
DHERETii; all these round the Jardin Darralde; db la Paix, B. from 2, B. 1,
ddj. 3, D. 4, pens, from 8 fr. ; Bbrnis, these two nearer the Thermal Eatab-
lishment. — Fumiahed Houaas and Private Penaiona, Villa du Roeher, Ca-
taux ain4 , Laugier^ Mariann^^ J. Lamturque , in and near the Promenade ;
Bonneeate^ Ptnnmi, in the Pla«e de THotel-de- Villa ; La^ftuarre^ higher up
and nearer the baths. Charges rary considerably : B. 2 to 10^ D. 6 to 8 fr.
Caf< and Club at the Hdiel des Princes.
Thermal Eatabliahmenta, see below. Tariff for drinking and gaj^ling,
from June 20th to Aug. 2()th, 20 fr. ; at other times during the season, U) fr. ;
family subscription, 50 fr. — Bath, from 7 to 10 a. m. : from June 20th to
Aug. 20th, 2 fr. ; at other hours and other seasons, 1 fr. ; douche, 1 fr. ; bath
and douche , 2 fr. 50 or 1 fr. 50 c. Tourists have the pririiege of drink-
ing once at the springs gratis.
Caaino (see below): subscription for a fortnight, entitling to 7 re-
presentations, 10 fr., 2 pers. 16 fr., 3 pars. 20 fr., 4 p6rs. 25 fr. ; per month.
15, 25, 35, or 40 fr. ; for 3 months, 30, 66, 75, or 90 fr.
Horaea and Mounted Onidea: Laniu94 FiUy Ntuna FUte. — There is no
fixed tariff; charges vary from 6 to 10 fr. a day.
Ouidea. •/. Orteig^J. Soustrade^ G. Miro^ etc. — No tariff; 8 to 11 fr. a day.
Eaux"Bonnt9 (2455 ft.), with 775 iiihab., is situated at the con-
fluence of two torrents, the Valentin and the Sourde, at the en-
trance to an extremely picturesque gorge between lofty mountains,
which leave a very narrow space between them. Its chief importance,
however, is due to the springs of sulphureous, sodie, and calcic
waters, in which chloride of sodium is the chief ingredient. These
waters are efficacious in throat and bronchial affections and in tuber-
cular consumption. The climate is mild in summer, but in conse-
quence of the altitude the season is short. Thwe are few attractions
for the ordinary tourist.
The centre of Eaux-Bonnes is the Jardin Darralde ^ a small
park planted with fine trees, in which a band plays in the after-
noon and evening. At one end is the Casinot the terrace of whi«'h
commands a fine view of the Pic de Ger (p. 135).
Ascending the Grande-Rue beyond the Jardin , we soon reach
the principal Etahlisument Thermal, of no great size, as the waters
are seldom taken in baths. There are seven small springs, the most
important being the Old Spring (Source Vieille; 89'*26' Fahr.), which
feeds only the tap of the pump-room. The water has a distinctly
sulphureous odour, but is less disagreeable to taste than to smell ;
it should be used with precaution. Farther up, at the end of the
village, is a pavilion containing the pump-room of the Fautaine
Froide {62** V Fihr.). Opposite are some schools, and to the left^
a Protestant Church. The mineral waters rise near here from the
Butte du Tresor, on which is a kiosque. Near the bridge over the
Valentin is the less important Etablitaement Orteig.
£aux-Bonnes has fine promenades. The Promenade Eynard
BAUX-BONNSS. //. BimU W, 135
leads round the Butte du Tr^sor, which may be reached from the
interior of the Etablissemeiit Thermal. The flue Promtnadc de
V Imperatrice or du QtoS'Hetrt diyerges f^om the former behind
the Butte, and runs beneath pleasant trees at a uniform height above
the valley of the Valentin, for about l'/4 M. Above the Cascade
d'licoo it crosses a bridge 80ft high, and joins another road, which
leads to the fine Cascade liti (?ro8- ffelfrf (dairy), near a wooden
bridge, about 2^4 Jtf. from the village. We may return hence by
the iVwWjgmxie du Valtntin, above the preceding, on the left bank
<if the stream, passing the pretty Cascade des Eaux^ Bonnes.
On the other side of the village is the Promenade Horitontaie,
for pedestrians only, on the flank of the Gourzy (see below), which
affords pretty views of the valley. Beginning at the terrace of the
Casino, it extends for over a mile, and is continued by a foot-
path as far as the £auz-Ghaudes road (see below). The Promenade
Qraniont, also on the flank of the Gourzy, ascends in zigzags behind
the Casino, as far as the Fontaine Froide. The Promenade Jacque-
minot, diverging from the last-named, ascends to the first plateau,
whence the view is very beautiful.
Ezenrsioni.
To Eaux-Chaudbs (p. 136). (1) By Road^ 5 M. : omnibus vi4 the sta-
tion of Laruns, see p.'lSd; small carriage direet, 4'6fr. We descend by
the road to Pan as far as (2^/% M.) the parting of the ways mentioned
on p. 133. Beyond this point the *Route is cut out in the rock on the
left of the Honrat (^hollow*), the rayine in which the Gave d*Ossau frets
150 ft. below, and it is overhung by rocks of still greater height. On the
other side of the torrent is the old road to Laruns , which descends very
rapidlj and joins the new road at tkePoat Grabe or Pont dea Gh^vres. —
(2) Vid the Fromenitdt Horitonial* (see aboTo). then by a footpath joining
the road about Vi M< short of Eaux-Chaudes. — <3) VU deGoldu QowMy^
about 4-41/4 hrs., an interesting excursitm which may be made on horse-
back, bat for whieh a guide is desirable (6-8 fr.). We ascend through
woods, in 1 hr., to tha first plateau to whidi the Promenade Jacqueminot
(see above) leads. The second plateau is V4 hr. farther on. Here we leaye
on the left the path to the Pic du Ger and in Va hr. more reach the
C«l dn Oauriy (ol47 ft.), whence there is a superb panorama, ineluding
the majestic Pic du Midi d'Ossau. Thence we descend to the S.W. by a bad
path, describing a wide circuit, whieh in 1 hr. more joins the road to the
grotto of Eaux-Chaudes (p. 137), about li/a M. from Eaux-Chaudes (p. 136).
To THE Pic da Gsb., about 5 hrs. Part of this most interesting excur-
sion may be accomplished on horseback , but the rest is laborious and
the ascent should not be made without a guide (13 fr.) and provisions.
Following the Eaux-Chaudes patii as far as the second plateau (I8/4 hr.,
see above) we there turn to the left and reach (IV4 hr.) the Plateau
^A»ouHUUy beyond the huts on which horses cannot ascend. Thence we
proceed on foot to (1 hr.) the Plateau de Cardoua (des Chardons), where
there is another hut, beyond which another bourns laborious elimb by the
fomhanM brings us to the top. This last stage is not only remarkably
Bteep, with a neye above a sheer precipice, but there is also a ridge
whieh must be erossed partly on one's hands and knees and partly astride.
The 'Pie da 6«r (8570ft.), with ita two peaks, the second of whieh
is dilOeult to elimb, affords a superb panorama presenting strong con-
trasts: to the S. a chaos of desolate mountaiwi, and to the N. a sea of
136i ILBimikSO. EAUX - CLAUDES.
verdure in tbe midst of whieh are the towns of Tarbes and Pau. The
most conspieuous summits visible, from £. to W. , are, in the fore-
ground, the Latte de Bazen (8105 ft.) and the P^nem^daa (8165 ft.); farther
away, to the right, tbe Pies de Oabizos (8660 ft. and 8806 ft.); then the
mountains round the valleys of Gaube and Marcadaou, with the Vigne-
male (10,795 ft.), the Pie de BalaVtous (10,3!^ ft.), the Pie Palas (9765 ft.),
and a succession of other peaks varying from SiOO to nearly 96(X> ft. in
height, extending to the famous Pie da Mf^ d'Ossaa (9466 ft.), eompured
with whieh the peaks of the Vallee d^Aspe seem tamely uniform. South-
wards , to the left of the Pie Amoulat (8515 ft.) , whieh forms part of
the Pie de Ger group, the large Lac d^Artouste is seen (p. 138).
To VHB Pic db Gobpbt, about 41/4 hrs. , easy , with guide (12 fr.).
We follow the above raute as far aa the (3 hrs.) Plateau d'An^uUku^ where
we turn to the right. From (^/s br.) the Col de LurcU (6400 ft.) is seen
the Pie du Hidi rising ill A*ont, and in V4 hr. more we reach (he top of
the Pie de Oeupey or de Ci»y (7245 ft.). It aJbuds a speeially fine view,
to, the S., of the valleys of the Gave de Boussoneou, descending from the
Lac d^Artouste (p. 138), and of the Gave de Brousset, as well as the
valley of Gabas, with the Pies de Balaitous, Palas, d*Ossau, ete.
To THB Lac d'Anolas avd Lac d^Usiovs , a fine exenrsion oeen-
pying a whole day (guide, 12 fr., and provSsicHui necessary), either via the
gorge of the Valentin, partially practicable for horses, or via tbe gorge of
the Sourde, the Coume d*Aas, ete. The Lao d'Anglaa C6790 ft.) is a small
round lake on a plateau between the buttresiles of the P^nem^daa and
the Sourins ; the Lac d'Uzioua (6955 ft.) , oval in shape , Ues a litUe far-
ther to the S.E. Still higher up are the little Lac de Lavedan and the Col
d'Utiout (7335 ft.), whence a charming view is enjoyed.
To TUB Grakd Pic db Gabizos, another fine excursion for one day
which may be Partly made on horseback (guidef 20 fr., and provisions). The
best route leads via th^ gorge of the Valentin, Gourreite^ the Hoehers de
las Niiras to the S.B., and the Pcutures of Bourroux. The ^rand Pio d«
Oabizoa or Pic d:'ISrat-TaiUadet (8806 ft.), to the S., is the. principal peak
of a group in which the Petit Pic, or Pic de Gabitos properly S9 called
(S&dO ft.), ranks second in height. The magnificent panorama resembles
that commanded by the Pic de G^r (se^ above).
To AROBLis (OautereU), 28 M. This very interesting road Cno public
conveyanee ; e«rriages very dear) leads by the gorge of the Valentin and
(8 M.) the Col cTAubisque (5610 ft.), then across a desolate but striking
tract, passing to the S. W. of tbe Mont Laid (6905 ft.), by the Col de aaueide
(6013 ft.) and the Col du Couret or de Somlor (4765 ft.), whence it descends
to (I81/3M.) Arrent (2060 ft. ; h(»tel), the principal place in the pretty ValUe
d'Axun, and thence by the valley of the Oa»e (TArreni^ in which are (90 M.)
Manout, (201/tM.) jiu<nm, (21l/a M.) GaiUagoi, C»U.) Ardtane-DeMus, and
(24 M.) iirros, with the ruined Ghdieau of Catteluau dAtum (14th cent.). Ar-
geliSt see p. 189. — A footpath, shortening the journey by 6iA M., leade from
the end of the gorge of the Valentin over the Col de Tortee (6900 ft.), rejoin-
ing the road a good 1/3 M. farther on. — The easy and interesting ascent of
the Pic de Grum (6135 ft.) may be made in 20min. from the Col d'Aubisque.
Other excursions, see pp. 137, 138.
III. Eaux-Chaudei.
Arrival from Pau, see p. 133; from £auz-Bonnes, see p. 136.
HoteU. Baudot, B. 4, B. 1V4> d^j- Sl/g, D. 4, pens. 10-12 fr. ; db Fkaiice,
B. 3-5, B. 11/4, d^j. 3, D. 4 fr. — Accommodation at the JStablietement also.
— Furniahea Booma. Caxaux; Lanne; Mounaixi Abbadie; Busxp. — Oafte.
on the Promenade Henri IV.
Thermal Xatabliahmeat . see ». 137. Fee for drinkinc the waUet, 6 fr.
from June 1st to Sept. aOth, 4 fr. at other seaaons. Private b*lh or
douche 1 fr. 26 c., in the general basin Cpiseine*) 60 c; douche beiare or
after a bath 1 fr. 76 e.; bathraheet 16, towel 10 c.
fiAUX-CHAUDEB. //. JtMOt 20, 137
HiMM tod MraaUa OmidMt Lakartht^ 0Ui»a4n^ etc. — GiddM on
foot: J. Lmb^rd^t St. Martin (of OabM), tee below< ~ Chargea, see Eaux-
Bonaee.
Bngtiah Oliwreh 8trvlee in snmnier (at the Freneh Chureh).
Eaux'Chaitdes (2215 ft.) is smaller, but perhaps even more
grandly situated than Eauz-Boiines. It is perched on the right
bank of the Oave d'Osaau or de Oabiu, which is so steep that the
bouses can hardly find standing-room. The waters, sulphureous
like most in the Pyrenees, are very efficacious , though less patron-
ised than those of Eaux-Bonue«, and life is quieter than at Eaux-
Bonnes.
The well-managed Tkertnal Establishment^ standing just above
the Gave, is a fine building partly constructed of Pyrenean marble.
More attention is here paid to bathing than at Eaux-Bonnes. Three
of the seven principal springs of Eaux-Chaudes are here in use, viz,
the Esquirette which has a double source of supply (95 and 89°
Fahr.) , the Key (92**), and the Clot (97°). They are much used in
certain maladies of women and in cases of rheumatic neuralgia
and chronic rheumatism. The attendants wear the local costume.
— On the first floor are ftirnished lodgings (see p. 1 36) and the Casino.
Eaux-Chaudes has some fine promenades: the Promenade
Henri QuatrCy near the baths ; the Promenade d'Argoui and the Pro^
menade Horixontale, one above the other on the left bank of the
Gave. Two bridges lead thither, one near the bath-house, the other
higher up, to the right, outside the village; on this side also is a
waterfall. There are two other promenades on the other side , the
chief of which is the Promenade Mmvielle^ to the left and not far
from the road , with the pump-room of the cold Minvielle Spring,
EzevrtuMis.
To THK Obotto op Eaux-Chauobs, about 1 hr. The custodian lives
in the village (IV2 fr. each pers. , including lights). The rough path as-
cends to the left of the road to Gabas and for 1/3 hr. is identical with
thst to Eaux-Bonnes by the Gourxy (p. 1^) \ then it tnrns to the right.
Prudence should be uaed in passing from the warm, outer air into the
▼ery cold cavern. The Grotto of &kvZ'ChaadoSf which is about 1450 ft.
deep , is specially remitf kable for the torrent which runs through it and
forms at its source a high easoade \ the guide illuminates it with Bengal
lights. There is a tavern at the entrance of the grotto.
To Gabas amd to Bioirs • Artiovbs (Pic de Bitcaon)^ an easy and in-
teresting excursion; 5 and 3M., carriage>road to Gabas, thence a bridle-
Sath. — The road is a continuation of that from Pau and Eaux-Bonnes to the
psnish frontier (p. 190). It crosses the Gave d'Ossau at the PorU d'Snfer
Md then steadily ascends the left bank along a most picturesque valley
bordered by wooded mountains. After about I8/4 M., the path to Acoous
over the Col d*Iseye (p. 134) diverges into the Vol d« Bitet on the right. Farther
on the valley narrows and the grand Pic du Midi d^Ossau comes into
view on the right. To the left is one of the routes to the Lae d'Artouste
(p. 139). ^ 5 M. Gabaa (3690 ft. ; Hdtel dts Pfr4nies, good, D. 5 fr. ; guides,
see above), the last hamlet on French territory , lies at the contluenee
of the Gaves de Brousset and de Hious, which unite to form the Gave
d'Osssu. It is a convenient starting-point for excursions in the upper
part of the valley (p. 138). ~- Travellers should not fail to ascend the
138 //. ROUU20. EAUX-CHAUDB8.
valley of the Gave de Bious to the rifht^ as fkr as the aaw-mlll of
(II/2 hr.) *Bioiu-Avtiguet, for the sake of the view of the Pie du Midi,
the most striking and complete anywhere obtainable. The mountain reara
its bare majestie peak in solitary grandeur from the midft of a wide
meadow-land whieh offers a striking contrast to the gloomy pine-foresta
that clothe the mountain -slopes. — The l^ic de Biacaon (606O ft.), to
the W. of Qabas, is another splendid point of view by reason of Its
detached situation. The easy ascent (2 lira.) is mAde partly by the road
to the saw -mill, whieh we quit in the valley of Aule, and ascend to the £.
The descent may be made in 2 hrs., by a 'couloir* on the N. side. — To
Vrdos and Le Somport^ see p. iS3.
To THE Pic dd Midi d^OssAU. This ascent , one of the most difAeult
in the Pyrenees, is only for experienced mountaineers. It oceupiea a full
day, and a good guide and provisions must be taken. The route lies by tlie
valley of OcU>as (see above) and by the valley of the 0ot>e 4e Jwinnisf
or by that of the Qave de £i4mu, whlah 4kirt aud Ijaiatf .-fba AMMmtaLa,
tlie former on the E., the latter oa <^ W. side. In the former ease we
follow the road to Spain for about 2 hrs. by carriage or on horseback,
as far as the Case de Brousset (4886 ft.), a i%ined inn, whence we aseend
to the right for 2 hrs. more (riding still practicable) to the Cd de Pambie
or de Suzon. (6890 ft.), between the Pie de SaoubUte (7045 ft.) on the rigbt
and the Pie du Midi on the left. Soon afterwards the difficulties of the
ascent begin, but they have been lessened by the fixing of iron bars in the
rocks of the three ^chemin^es' by whieh we must elimb, the laat one
overlooking a precipice. — The route by the valley of the Qave de Bious
follows the road to Bious- Artigues as far as (Vs M. from Gabas) the Fallon
de Magnabaigt, to the left, ascends this valley for ll/s br., and then mounta
by the (1 hr.) Plate€M de Moffnabaigt to the Col de PomMe^^ where the abore
route is joined. — The Pie di^ Midi d'Oaaau (9465 ft.), whieh is thus
attained in 5-6 hrs. from Gabas , is one of the most characteristic granite
masses of the Pyrenees, rising precipitously from almost^ every side, like
a gigantic pyramid in ruins, truncated and cleft by some convulsive agency.
Its base is hardly more than a mile in diameter while the circle over
which its debris are scattered is 10 M. in circumference. The prospect is
very extensive, but more grand than beautiful. The principal features
are, to the N. , besides the Pie d'AuU (7910ft.), whieh is very near, the
Vallee d*Ossau and the plain as far as Pau; to the £. , among the High
Pyrenees, the Vignemale and Mont-Perdu ; to the S. , the mountains and
plains of Aragon *, to the W., the Pftf d*Anie. — The Petit Pie (9160 ft.), atill
more difficult than the Grand Pie, is reaohed by the Col de Peyreget,
between the Pic du Midi and the Pic de Peyreget (8113 ft.), to the S.
To TBS Lac d^Aktoustb (Pic PakUy Pie d*Arriel^ and Pic de BalaUome).
A great part of this excursion, which takes a day, is practicable on
horseback, by the Col d'Arrious or the valley of the Gave ae Sousaoueou.
By the former route we follow the road to Spain for about IV4 hr. beyond
Gabas , V4 ttr- short of the Case de Brousset (see above) , and ascend to
the left, through woods and by pasture ground, to the (IV4 ^-) C9I d*Arriom»
(8050 ft.), whence the lake is visible below us, and is reached in V4 br.
more. — The other route, a little longer and more laboriou« , divei^es
from the Gabas road 21/s M. from Eaux-Chaudes , erossea the Gave, and
ascends by the right bank of the wild Oorge du Souuouiout watered by
a torrent that issues from the liae d*Artouste itself. Halflfray (about
3 hrs.) we reach a small plain entered on the left by a road eoming front
Eaux- Bonnes via the Col de Lurd^ (p. 136). Splendid views of the
mountains are obtained, especially of the Pic Palas (V70O ft.), the Pie d*Arriel
(9960 ft.), and the BalaUous (p. 139), from the side of the lake. —
The Lae d'Artonate (6446 ft.) is one of the largest in the PyreneM, having
an area of about 1(X) acres. It is hemmed in on all sides by roeks and
mountains, whieh, in combination with the solitude of these high regions,
make the scene very impressive. A few huts are paased on the second
of the above routes, about 1/2 br. before reaching the lakej aad the
French Alpine Club has ereeted a refuge on the Lae d'ArrimouU (7690 fl.),
ARGELte. //. Routt 2L 139
hr. farther up. — The Pie d'Arrial (9960 ft. ; fine view), rlsfng to the S., on
le frontier, may be easily ascended in 21/9 hra. firom the lEtefnge d*Arr<-
ouli, or in 2V4 hrs. from the Col d'Arrious, rii the little Loe dTArri&us and
e Ckfl d€ Sobt (8030 ft.}. — The Pie PaUs, or de las Pala$ (9780 ft.), nearer
e Lac d'Artouste but also on the frontier, is difficult to climb fy-i hrs.
om the refuge), and is inferior as a point of view to both the Pie d*Ar*
el and the Balaitous. — The Pie de BalaXtoiu, or Bat-L<Ut<m$€ (10,820 ft.),
rther to the E., is another difficult peak, ascended in 5 hrs. from the Re-
ge d*Arr€moali. The route leads via (i/j hr.) the Col cTArrimouli (8066 ft. ;
lendid view), between the Arriel and the Palas, and then follows the
ige by a difficult ^couloir* and a dangerous ridge, between two precipices.
To THB Baths op Pasticosa, (Spain), 1 day. The earriage-road leads
a Q<»bat (p. 137) and the Cms 4« Bntuutt (p. 138) to the Coi du PomrUOel
j90 ft.) , called also Col tPAnism^ an the (13 M.) frontier-, then descends
a the beautiful VaUef of Roumigo*^ the (IV9-2 hrs.) terge Spanish Tillage
Salient (4106 ft. \ Berga-, Gonzales), and the poor Tillage of (2 hra.) Pmt-
osa^ 6 H. beyond whieh lie the Baths. The Jiaths ef Pantiejsa <»76ft.;
f6t. Franco-Etpagnol; cTEtpoifne)^ celebrated for their thermal alkaline
d sulphureous waters , are situated on the shores of a blue lake into
bieb four cascades fall from the bare granite mountains which sur-
und it. — A mule-track leads thence via the (2 hrs.) Port de Mureadaou
385 ft.> to (7Va hrs.) GatUereU (p. 140)-, and it is also possible to proceed
a the (IV4 hr) (^^ ^ Brazato (8260 ft.), the (3 hr.) Port de Plalaube (8230 ft.),
d the VaU^e d'Ostome (p. 164), to (7l/s hrs.) Omarnie (p. 162).
21. Canterets and its Environs.
I. From Lourdes to Canterets.
20 M . To (13 M.) Piei^tfitie, Railway in 35-55 min. (fares 2 fr. 36, 1 fr.
, 1 fr. 5 e.). Thence Elbctkic Ballwat to (7 M.) Cauterets in 3/^ hr.
ftre« 2 fr. 26, 1 fr. 70 c). — - Omnibuses from the larger hotels at Cauterets
eet tbe trains at Pierrefltte \ and public vehicles also ply (fare 1 fr. ^c).
LatiTde», see p. 124. Tickets permitting the journey to be broken
ere, see p. 123. — The railway makes a wide circuit to the E.,
id approaches the Gave de Pau and de Lourdes at the station of
oum (cable-railway up the Pic de Jer, p. 126). The valley becomes
lore and more interesting as we proceed. Beyond (4 M.) Lugaynan
nd (T^/s M.) BdO'SUhens we cross to the left bank of the Gave and
iter the fertile little plain of Argeles. On the right is a keep,
iting from the 14th century.
9V« M. Argeiei (1526 ft. ; •Hdt de France, R. 3-5, B. 1 V27 d^j- 3,
. 4, pens. 10, omn. Vt fr. ; du Pare et d' Angleterre ; des Thermea;
eau- S/Jour; JPcfM. Lahordty well situated) is a email town of
$83 inhab., prettily situated at the mouth of the Valine d'Azun
. 136), with &Thei-mal Establishment, supplied by the sulphureous
alters of Gazost, a Casino, Viilaji to let, etc. £ngUsh Church Ser-
ce in summer.
Numerous walks and points of view. Road to Eaux-Bonnes, see p. 136.
Kcursions at cheap fares to Lourdes, Cauterets, Gavarnie, etc.
IBM. Pierrefitte-Kei talae (Ho^ de la Poste, R. 3, B. 1 , d^j. 3, D. 4 fr. ;
s Frcmce, at the station; Hdt.-Rest. Labarthe), a village ^/2 M. to
le S. W., where the road from Lourdes via Argeles forks, the right
-aiich going to Cauterets, the left to Luz-St-8auveur and Bareges.
A road, which diverges from the Lourdes route to the left at the end
the village, leads in 36 min. to St. Savin, passing the little ChapelU de
140 //. Routt 21, CAUTEItKTS.
PUtat^ of the i6th cent., from which there is a One view. — The Tillage
of Sti Savin (Hotel) is built round the celebrated abbey of that name,
and should be visited on account of its fine Romanesque Churchy which,
with the exception of the i4th cent, steeple, dates from the il-i2th cen-
turies. It contains two noteworthy paintings of the iSth cent. , in nine
compartments, representing the history of St. Savin, the hermit, and also
his tomb, of the llomauesque period, surmounted by a rich pyramidal
canopy of the 14th century.
On the other side of the valley, also visited from Fierrefitte , is the
(3/4 br.) village of Beaucens, with a large ruined (kuUe of the i3-16theent.,
and a small thermal establishment. The road thither diverges to the
left from the Bareges route, a good Va X. from Fierrefitte.
The Eleotsic Railway to Cautbbets, starting at the railway-
station, passes ('/2 M.) Nestcdcu (p. 139) and rapidly ascends in zig-
zags. Fine retrospect. It then runs along the £. side of the valley
of the Gave de CatUerets, high above the road. To the right is an
argentiferous lead-mine. On the left side of the valley rises the
Pic de Viscos (p. 149). Beyond a tunnel the gradient becomes less
steep. As we descend, the Uourm^gas and the P^guere, the heights
above Cauterets^ soon come into view. — 5 M. Cdlypao. The line
now crosses the stream and the road by means of a lofty viaduct,
beyond which the best views are on the right.
On both sides rise steep mountains, partly clothed with wood,
but farther on the valley expands gradually into a small cultivated
plain. — 7 M. (20 M. from Lourdes) Cautertti,
The *RoAD TO Gautbbbts leaves the road to Lus-St-Sauvenr and
Bareges (R. ^) to the left, and ascends^ in the same direction as the
railway, commanding fine views. Crossing the stream (Si/a M.), it threads
a wild defile in which it is at places cut oat of the rock and supported
by walls on the side of the ravine along which the torrent ehafes. One
of the most curious spots is the Litnaqon^ a chaos of fallen rocks. It
then skirts the railway to CauUrets.
Cauterets. — Hotels. Gsakd-Hotbl Contivbmtal, Gr. Hot. d^Avolb-
TBRSB, Boulevard Latapie-Flurin, near the Esplanade, large and fine houses
of the first class; the latter is a d^pendance of the Hdtel Gasaioa at Pau,
B. from 4V9^ B. iVsi d^j- 4^ D- 5, pens, from i3Vsi omn. 1 fr. ^ Ob.-Hot.
Du BouLBVARD, Same Boulevard; Gr. Hot. dbs Frombkadbs, on the Espla-
nade, one of the best situated. — In the TVnm: Gr. Hdr. du Pabc, Hdr. db la
Pais, db Pabis (these two well ;spoken oOi all in the Plaee St. Martin ^ ds
l'Univbrs bt Eichblieu, Bue de laEaill^re, B. from 3, B. 1, di^. d. D.^i/s,
pens, from 7, omn. i/%ir.\ db Fbamcb, Rue St. Louis and Rue Riche-
lieu; DB LoMDRBS, DBS Ambassadburs, DB BoRDBAux, Rue Richeiieu ; DU
GoMMBRCB, Bae St. Louis; db la Gabb. -~ Fumi^Md AjMrtmBats are
abundant, the town being able, it is said, to aeommodate 10,000 ttranfers
at a time. Among others: Chalet de$ Bains^ near the Btab. des CBufs;
Chatet du Boulevard^ Maiiotu PimoriHy St. Ciciley Boulevard Latapie-Flurin ;
Lannigran^ Camman^ Avenue du Hamelon - Vert, pavallel to the above
Boulevard; Labauiy QenVUeUy LtUapUy OraUy Place de la Hairier Lauerrey
DulmOy HCtel de Rustie^ Latapie (drugeist). LatouTy Rue de Belfort, beyond
the Mairie ; Quellaieny DuhoureaUy C. Deherrepy Rue St. Louis , near the
Place St. Martin ; Biroty Byastony Cabroly /7«rtn, DanoSy Dubertrand^ Diffop-
Blanchardy Bitpy Souloiy Liibordey Managauy Lavandiery Biguiy OmpiagMty
Rue de la Raillfere, near the Place St. Martin ; Lapeifr*^ i^^^ ^* Frimeety
Fabiresy ViUeneuve^ Bordena»ey LousteaUy Rue Biehelieu; Z)a«^aiMM, Rue
de la Fontaine. — On the whole prices are high , as much as 90 francs
being charged for a room at the flrst-elaas hotels during the height of the
season (from mid-.1une to mld-Sept.), 4 fr. for dejeuner, and 6 fov dinner.
Other hotels charge from 8 to 12 fr. a day (dtfj. 3-8i/s> D. 94 fr.).
CAUTERETS. 11. RiMte 21, 141
Cafte. Ou Otuino de* (Bttft; 09f4 JnglaUy BouteTard L«Upi« - Flurin ;
Grand Ca/4, Place St. BUriin. — JKaatanxmate at most of the hotels •, also,
Maison des Families, Rue d''£tigny and Rue de G^sar, d^j. 3^ D. 3 fr.
Thermal Sstabliahineiita. The old Etablissbmevts db la Vall^s de
St. Satik inelude those of dsar^ Let Sspagnols (p. 143), Ptrnte^Vitux
(p. 143), Le Bo%$ (p. 143), Lt* <Eitf$ (p. 142), La BmSUhre (p. 149), and Le
Pri (p. 143), to which the NiathtrvMM (p. 143) haTS reeently been added
bv purchase. The tariff at these varies aeeordinf to the establishneDt,
the hoar , and the season , the highest priees obtaining front Jnly Ist to
Aug. 31st: bathe Vs-^/d^ douebes Vv^^/a fr., etc. — The private Etabussb-
HEirr Du PBTrr'Sf-^AUVBUK is cheaper.
Cabs. Drive in the town, 2 pers. 1, 4 pers. i^/^it.x ascent to La
Baill^re or Pauze, 3-4 fr.; descent, IV2 t^"^ 3 fr., there and baek with
V4 hr*8. stay, 4 and 5 fr. ; ascent to Le Bois, 4 and 5, descent 3 and 31/3,
there and ba«k d and 6 fr. — Per hour, onlside tlie town, 4 and 5 fr. the
first hr. and 3 and 3 fr. per hr. afterwards.
Seetrie Sailway to La RaXllhre fp. 142) in 7 min. (fares 60 and 40 c).
The cars start about every 10 min. from the Bsplanade, but the service
stops soon after the EtahUssement closes.
Brakes for Oavarnie ((p. 159) start at 6 p. m. from the Place 8t. Martin,
opposite the Hot. de Pans, where seats should be booked in advance.
Gavamieis reaehed about 11 a.m.; the return-journey begins at 3 p. m.,
Caaterets being reached about 8 p. m. Fare 10 fr.
Carriagea, Hersesy and Donkeys for hire in large numbers. Carriage, per
day 15 to 40 fr. (bargaining necessary). — Tariff for horses indicated
below at the beginning of each excursion. Donkeys are usually 1/5 cheaper
than horses.
Guides. These number about 60 and are divided into two classes,
the first class having a white cloth crown above their badge. The best
mountain-guides are J. P. Latapie ; Dom. and Ed. Pont ; Pierre^ Jtan-Mfarie^
and Dom. Bordenave; Paul Batau; Paul and Jean. OentMeu: M. and B. La-
^M ,' Mich. Soueflze ; Bapt. Verger ; and Aug. Boirrie. The charges are given
at the head of each excursion. The usual charge is 15 fr. a day (between
^pt. 15th and June 15lh, 35 per cent less) \ more when the guide is dis-
chngrd outside of Gauterets.
Oisino, at the Thermes des CEufs, adm. 1 fr. Subscription, including
lYserved seats at entertainments: in the middle of the season, for 1,2, 3
weeks, and season, 20, 39, 57, and 100 fr. ; cheaper at beginning and end
of season (see bills). ■ Seats in the theatre -. in the middle of the season,
reserved, 4-5 fr. 3 front row, 3 fr.
Post and Telegraph Oflloe, at the Hotel de Ville.
Snglish Gkuroh Svrriee in summer (French Protestant Church).
Cautents (3055 ft.) is a small town of 15H4 inhab., very beauti-
fully situated in a valley encompassed by lofty mountains and on
the banks of the torrent of the same name. The town contains
nothing more noteworthy than the magnillcent hotels in the new
quarter to theW., near the Esplanade, and this promenade itself
with the Etahlissemeitt des (Eufs (view, see p. 143), to which per-
haps may be added the new Gothic church. As a thermal station,
however, it ranks amongst the first in France, while it is also one
of the chief centres for excursions in the High Pyrenees. Though
the season is short, the town is visited annually by about 10,000
patients^ and 30,000 tourists.
The centre of the town Is the Place St. Martin^ at the etid of the
Rve Richelieu , which leads from the station^ and the adjoining
PUiee de la Mairie, From the former diverge the streets leading
to tie chief Hthin^'^establishments, except the Btablissemeiit des
142 //. Boute 21, CAUTEBETS.
(Eafs, which is situated oh the Esplanade, to the left of the farther
side of the Place de la Mairie and of the Gave. The Mairie contains
a Reliefs Plan- of the Central Pyrenees (1:5000), hy M. Walloii
(adm. 50 c.)*
The Watsbs of Canterets contain chiefly sulphur and silicate of soda,
but there are also alkaline waters. They are supplied by 34 Sprinifs^
several of which are very copious. Thev are, in fact, the most copious
in the Pyrenees, yielding about 440,000 gallons per day. They vary-
greatly in temperature (61 to 131** Fahr.> and even in composition, thoufi^h
not so much in this latter respect as the waters of Bagna«s>de*Laehon
(p. 166). Cauterets possesses eight establishments, admirably arranged
for the requirements of drinking, bathing, douches, inhalation, and
pulverieation.
The Thebmss dss (Eof8 (open 5-11 a. m. and 2-7 p. m.), ealled
also simply Les (Eufs, are the principal and the most remarkable
of these establishments. It is fed by the six Sjourcea de» (Eufs,
about IV4 M. to the S., which supply no less than 132,000 gallons
a day. It contains a swimming-bath of running water, 22 yds. long
and 9 yds. wide. The waters are principally used in the treatment
of chlorosis , anaemia, and diseases of the skin and mucous mem-
branes. The springs have a temperature of 131* Fahr. , but at the
buvette of the establishment the water is only 113°; at the buvette
beside the springs (p. 143) 129**. The offices of the company that
rents the waters are also at Les (Eufs, while the first floor is occu-
pied by the Casino (p. 141).
The Thebmes de C^sab et des Espaonols lie to the 6.E. of the
town. The baths here are fed on the left by the Source de Ce'sar
(118*^ Fahr.), 80 named in commemoration of an alleged visit of C«sar
to Cauterets; on the right by the Source des Espagnols (116** Fahr.),
both of which issue a little higher up from the Montague de Pey-
raoute. These waters, the most powerful in Cauterets, are used
chiefly in the treatment of chronic diseases of the respiratory organs
and in scrofulous and syphilitic affections, skin diseases, and rheu-
matism. The establishment is open all the year round.
The NiioTHEBMBB or Bains du Rocher-Rieumiaet are situated in
a pretty garden , about 200 yds. to the N. of the preceding. They
may be reached directly by a passage through the Hotel du Pate, or
by a new Avenue from the station. They are fed by three springs,
viz. those of Cesar- Nouveau (113** F.), Le Rocher (104** F.), which
contains iron , and Rieumiset (61*^ F.). These waters are specially
adapted to cutaneous and rheumatic affections and for peraons of
nervous and irritable temperament.
Higher up , on the slope of the Montagne de Peyraoute, are the
less important establishments of Pauze^Vieux and Pauze' NouvetMu,
The Etablissement de la Raill^bb, the most important of ail,
is situated nearly a mile to the S. of the town on the road , on the
right bank, forming a continuation of the Rue de la Raillere; but
there is a short- cat for pedestrians beginning on the Esplanade.
Electric railway, see p. 141. The establishment, rebuilt in 1888,
CAUTERETS. //. BauU 91. 143
with galleri«8 and promenades, is situated 3640 ft. above the sea-
lerel (-580 ft. above Gauteret8),.ou a declivity of the mountain
covered with fallen rocks (raillere). It is built over the three springs
which feed it (lOS*", 100'', and 9r Fahr.), and are so abundant that
even horses are treated. In the cure of diseases of the respiratory
organs it vies with Eaux-Bonnes (p. 134). It is open from 6 to 11 a.
m. and from 2 to 6 p. m. Beside it is now the Etablissement du
BoU d' En-Bos,
The Raillere commands a good view, but a still finer prospect
is enjoyed farther on, where two small waterfalls are in sight. Still
more distant are the Buvette de Mauhourat (122** Fahr.) and the
Buvette dea (Eufa (129*); the Etablissement du Petit- St -Sauveur
{llO, the Etablissement du Pre (108**), the Petit Mauhourat (121**) ;
the Sowrce de$ Yeux (68**); and finally, higher up, the Etablissement
du Bois d'En-Haut (109*^ and 9n, the most remote (3670 ft.) but
highly esteemed for the cure of rheumatism. The Cascade de G^risey
(p. 145) lies only V4 ^^* higher up.
Cauterets has fine promenades. The Esplanade des (Eufs is the
favourite resort of visitors during the concerts which are given from
1.30 to 3 p. m., and it is flanked by little shops of all kinds.
The Esplanade is an excellent point from which to take, one^s bearings,
before starting on exeursions from Cauterets. The P^gttire^ to the 8..^
behind Les (Eufs , has already been mentioned. Beyond the RaiUire is
tbe Pie 4e HonrmtgaSy separated from the Pegu^re by the ValUe de Jiret^
in which is the road to the Lac de Gaube , etc. To the left of the
Rourm^gas is the V<aUe de Lutour, on the crest of the opposite side of
whieh rise several bare peaks , with patches of snow even in summer.
Tlie chief of these is the Pic vTArdiden, on the other side of which is
8t.8»uTeur; then from E. to W. , above the towp, the Pic de Pkne-Nkre^
thePfe de Viseos, the Ptc de Caba^ites^ to the left of the ralley of the
6are de Cauterets, and the Monni^ separated from the Pegu^re by the
ValUe de Cambatquey in which lies the Lac Bleu.
On the slope of the P^ulre (ascent, see p. 145) extends the
Promenade des Lacets or de Cambasque , which is not fatiguing
and affords a fine view at the exit from the wood, about 25 miu.
from Les (Eufs. The road leading to the Raillere route diverges to
the left, about V4 M. farther on.
The Promenade du Mam,elon -Vert continues the avenue of (he
same name down the valley. It is deficient in shade. At the end
we turn to the right, cross the Gave, and regain the town by the
Pierrefltte road. The Hameton-Vett is the name given to the knoll
oil the right, between the promenade and the Gave \ it commands a
fine view of the head of the valley. — In the town Itself, above the
Pierrefltte road and near the N^othermes, is a pretty and shady Park,
now somewhat neglected , though still a resort of the visitors. —
Above this parses the road which leads, on the slope of the
y^ontagnt de Peyraoute, to the (iVi M.) hamlet of CancerUf well
shaded in the afternoon and offering beautiful views. We may
descend hence to the Pierrefltte road, which we reach near the
juaction with the Mamelon- Vert road. — Still higher is the road
144 //. RotOe 21. MONN^. ExeurHons
to the Grange de la Seine Hortense , issuing from the Etabllsse-
merit de Pauze-Yieux (p. 142). It is identieal with that to the Col
de Riou (p. 149). The grange (harn), which is reached in ^/{hr.,
owes its name to the fact that Queen Hortense , when a Yisitor to
Cauterets, was once detained at it by a storm.
II. Ezonrsions from Gftnterete.
To THE MoNN^, SVs-^lirs., ail easy excursion ; guide 12ftr., horse
12 fr. Pedestrians turn to the left from the Avenue du Mamelou-Vert
and skirt the P^guere from E. to "W., by the Vallee de Camba$que,
cross ('/4 hr.) the torrent of that name , also called Paladere , and
ascend to the (1^/4 hr.) Plateau des Cinquets (5725 ft.; refreshments),
1 hr. from the top. — The bridle -path follows the road to the
Raillere, crosses the bridge, turns to the right, and skirts the
E. flank of the P^guere until ('/4 hr.) it joins the preceding path. The
horses must be left at the inn, about 450ft. below the summit. -
The Honn6 or Soum de Monne (8935 ft.) is one of the nearest and
most conspicuous mountains seen from Cauterets , for which it
serves as a kind of barometer, the weather being foretold from the
state of the mists in which it is often enveloped. The S. side, to-
wards the Val de Lis , is precipitous , but the N. side descends in
a gentle slope towards the valley of Labat*de-Bun , and ends in a
slaty crest, from which there is a wide view, extending "W. to the
bead of the Val d'Azun; N. over the flanks of the Cabaliros (see
below) to the plains of Tarbes and B^arn; E. to the Pic du Midi de
Bigorre, the N^ouvielle, and Mont Perdu; and S. to the Vignemale
and the Balaltous. In the middle distance, to the S. , is the Ltc
Bleu or Lac dlll^OTi (see below).
To THE Caealibos, 4 hrs.; guide 10 fr., horse (see below) 10 fr.
We follow the Promenade du Mamelon-Vert for about V> M. , then
turn to the left behind the shed of a large white house, and skirt
the flanks of the Peyrenere to the (1 hr.) Plateau d'Esponne (refresh-
ments). Thence we gain the (V2 hr.) £. buttresses of the Monn^.
beyond which the ascent becomes more difficult. After passing a
(Valir.) slaty terrace we reach the (1 hr.) Col de Contente (6940 ft.:
fine view), on which is an inn. Horses can ascend still farther,
though the guides sometimes assert the contrary. The rest of the
climb is easy. — The rounded Cabaliros (7655 ft.) is the principal
summit to the N, of Cauterets. It is crowned by an ordnance-survey
tower. The *Panorama from the top , one of the finest in the Pyie-
nees, resembles that from the Monn^, hut excels it in including
the valley of Argeles.
To THE Lac Bleu or Lac D*lLtiou, Sl/j bra. od foot; guide 10. horse
8 fr. We take the route to the Monn^ as far aa the Plateau de Camhaaque
(see above) •, then, following the valley , we pass (9 hra.) in front of the
fine Cascade d'JlUou and farther on the little Lac Noir. — The la« Hen
or L<ic d>'HUou is 6515 ft. above the sea and covers nearly 115 aerea. It*
lonely situation an4 wnd surroundings contrast strikingly with the deep
from Cauterets, LAC DiE GAUBB. //. Route 2/. 14S
blae tint of its limpid waters. To the W. is the Orand Bafbat (9925 ft. ;
11/9 hr., with guide). To the E. rises the Pie dt NH$ (8035 ft.). The re-
ton may be made to the S.E. by the Col de la ffaomgade, the Plateau dt
Cttjfon (p. 146), and the Pont d'Etpagne (see below); this requires 41/9 hrs.,
aad the guide is paid 5 fr. extra.
*To TBE Lao db Gaubx, 2^/4 hrs. by road; horse 8 fr. Passing
the C/s hr. ; 7 min. by electric railway) RalUere and the other estab-
lishments in the upper part of the valley, we cross the Pont dt
Btnqtbts (3448 ft.), at the confluence of .the Qavt de Md^cadaou
ffld Qave de Lutow (p. 147), aud ascend the Vol de J/rety on the
right, skirting the G«ye de Marcadaou, the bed of which is almost
blocked with huge boulders. The mountain on the opposite side is
the P^guere (see below). Farther on, beyond the Etsblissement du*
Bois and a small cascade, the roar of the ('/4 hr.) imposing *Caaeade
dt Ceri$ey (4050 ft; refreshments) becomes audible. The stream is
split into two by a mass of rock, from either side of which it falls into
a deep abyss between two walls. of rock. The best time to see it is
between 10 o'clock and noon, when rainbows are formed above it by
the sun. There are two more cascades of less importance farther on.
We traverse striking scenery to (about '/4 hr. beyond the cascade)
the Pont d'Espagne (4880 ft.; Hotel, R. 5, B. IVti d^j- ^7 !>• 5fr.),
a primitive bridge at which there is another cascade and where the
torrent and valley of Marcadaou debouch. For this valley and the
excursions in it, see p. 146. — The new road to the (^/4 hr.) Lac de
Ganbe, rather steep for the first ^/^ hr., continues to ascend the left
bank of the torrent. The scenery becomes more and more wild,
and at last there appears before us the Yignemale with its glacier.
The Lae de Oaabe (5865 ft), which is about 800 yds. long and
350 yds. wide, with an area of about 42 acres, lies in the middle
of a wide and bleak basin formed by the bare sides of the Pic Meya
(8080 ft.) on the E. and the Pic de Gaube (7540 ft.) on the W. It
abounds in trout and is fed by the glacier of the Yignemale , to
the S. (see p. i46>. On the bank of the lake stand a good Hotel
(R< 5, d^j. 4, Di 5f^.) and a monument in memory of a Mr. Pattison
and his wife who were drowned in the lake in 1832.
To THB PiauBBB, SVj hrs. ; guide 12, horse 10, donkey 8 fr.
We follow the above route to'(l V4hr.) the Cascade de C^risey, a little
t^yond which is a bridge, with a placard, indicating the forest-path
to the P^guere, to the right. This route ascends in zigzags above
precipices 1600 ft. high, on the S. of the mountaiTi, and reaches
(Vthr.) the last spring (43&Bft.) on this slope. From the point
(5250 ft.), '/2 hr. farther up, where the path forks (horses can go
thus far), we ascend the ravine of the Laoune to the (1 V4 hr.) sum-
mit. — The Pic P^drd (7176 ft.) is the wooded mountain which-
rises above Gautetets beliind the Thermes des (Eufs, and appears in
the vista of the valley as we come from Pierrefltte. A inagniflcent
^ew is commanded by the path at a height of 6500 ft. above the sea,
or 3500 ft above Cauterets. To the E. and W. the view extends into
Baedeker. Soatbern France. 4th Edit. 10
146 //. Route 21. VALLEY OF MABC4DA0U. Excurrions
the valleys of J^ret and Cambasqu^, but it i$ more or less limited by
the higher p«aks that bound these valleys, as well as by those of the
chain to the S. of the P^guere.
To the Valley of Xareadaou or Marcadau, 4 hrs. on foot,
3-3Vt hrs. on horseback as far as the Cabane de Marcadaou;
guide (not needed) and horse 12 and 15 ft. — To the (2 hrs.)
Pont d'Espagne^ see p. 146. We cross the bridge and ascend the
good bridle-path beside the Gave de Marcadaou as far as the (V4 hr.)
Plateau de Cayan (5255 ft.), a charming and solitary region amidst
lofty mountains, covered with woods affording a retreat to bears and
heath-cocks. Path to the Lac Bleu, see p. 144. Farther on we leave
to the left tht Vallon de Poueytrenou$ ^ which ascends towards the
Pic de Chabarrou (see below), cross the torrent, and reach the (V4 hr.)
Etcalier de la Pourt^r^ (5510 ft.). We recross thei torrent and reach
in V2 hr. the Cahane de Mareadaou (5905 ft.), in the meadows of th«
Pla de la Oole,
The hut , which has room for six persons , is an exeellent starting*
point for other exeunsions, especially for the tolerably easy ascent of the
Som de BciccimaiUe or Orandt Fache (9906 ft.) , which requires 3^/4 bra.f
and for the difficult ascent of the Pic d'Bnfer^ or Quejeda de Pundillot
(10,310 ft.), in Spain, which requires 4S/4 or 7 hrs., according to the rout^
taken from the Port de Marcadaou (see below), the shorter one leadiag
by the glacier to the N., the longer by the Ck)l de Salient. These excur-
sions should not, of course, be made without a guide.
The track along the valley is continued to the (2 hrs.) Port de Uof-
emdaou (8370 ft«), on the frontier, whence the Bath* ef Fttntieom (p. 198)
may be reached in 2i/a-3 hrs.
To Gavabmib by ths Mountains (route via Pierrefltte aii<i
St. Sauveur, see pp. 139, 151). — 1. Vid the Lae de Oaube, about
10 hrs., guide 15 fr. (unnecessary), and a» much for the return. The
whole expedition may now be made on horseback. We follow the
VignemaLe route as far as the Houtquette d*09»oue or CoL de Vigntr
male (8995 ft; about 6 hrs.; p. 147) and thenee descend to the £.
to the (10 miu.) Refuge du VignemaU of the F. A. C. (8760 ft.; inn
in summer), on the Oaife d'OMoue, the right bank of which we
follow, soon enjoying a view of the large Yignemale Glacier to the
right. To the left is the Cascade des Oulettes, and farther on are
the i^U ^r.) Ba98in de$ Oulettes (6100 ft.), the Pat des Oulettes, the
(Vf hr.) Plan de MiUaa (5715 ft.), and the (1 hr.) Cahanee de SausM
(5480 ft). Thence the path, which remains on the right bank, de-
scends rapidly through wood, crossing the torrent Vt ^^' short of
Qavarnie (p. 152). — 2. Vid the Valley of LiUour, about 11 hrs.:
guide as above. There Are two exits from the head of the valley :
(1) The Col d' Estom-Soubiran (6Vr7 hrs.; see p. 148), whence we
descend into the Vallee d'Ossoue (see abov«). (2) Tb« Colde Mal-
lerougeXdM6 ft), 1 hr. to the E. of the first Lac d'£stom-Soubiraii,
and to the N. of the Pic de MaUerouge (9740 ft.)* Thence we keep
to the S. vii the (Vt hr.) Col de la Houle (8860 ft) and the (Vt hr.>
Cabane de Salent (6510ft), and thence again to the £. by the valie>
frwn Cauterets, YIGNEMALE. 11. Route 22. 147
of the Oave d'Atpe ('Chaos'), and finally once more to the 8. to
Gavamie (p. 152).
To THB Pic de Chabarrou^ about 7 hrs. (il/j hrs. from the Lae de
Qaube); guide 15 fr., or, including the return by the Valley of Mareadaou,
20 fr. Following the route to the Vignemale as far as the seeond cascade
beyond the Lac de Gaube (p. 145), we there take a path to the right (W.)
wbich leads to (1 hr.) the beautiful Lae de Chabarrou (7485 ft.). Thence
we ascend straight to the summit in I'/i hr., by a very steep slope, over
debris, a short snow-field, and some precipitous rocks. The Pie oe Chabarrou
(9550 ft.) is one of the finest ascents in the neighbourhood of Cauterets,
both on account of its situation and of Its height. The view extends
from the Pic d*Anle to Mont Perdu and the Pic du Midi de Bigorre, and
the neighbouring Vignemale is particularly well seen. — The descent may
be made on the N. by the Valley of Marcadaou, vi& the (i/a hr.) Brkche
r8920 ft.), the VaUey and the (II/2 hr.) Cabane de Poueytrenous, the 0/a hr.)
Plateau de Cayan (p. 146), and the (3/4 hr.) PoM dTEspagne (p. 146).
To THB ViONBMALB, 2 days (1 day from Sayamie, 8«e p. 154), the
night being spent at the Befiige du Vignemale, 6 hrs. from Cauterets. The
ascent is laborious and adapted only to experienced climbers with good
guides (80 fr.). A single tourist should take two guides. Rope and axe
neeessaFy. Riding is practicable via the Hourq«ette d'Ossoue to Gavamie.
— To the (23/4 hrs.) Lac de Qaube , see p. 145. Pedestrians may shorten
the journey by rowing up the lake (1 fr. each). Thence we continue to
ascend beside the torrent, which forms several cascades, the chief of which
18 the Cateade d'Eiplumouse (6480 ft.), IV4 hr. from the inn on the lake.
The ascent of the Pie de (Chabarrou (see above), on the right, is usually
made from the second cascade, beside which is a hut. Farther on we
reach the Oulettes de Gaube and the Oulette$ du Vignemale (7310 ft.) , the
last terraee in the valley, 1 hr. beyond the ehief cascade. Hence we have
a grand view of the 17. glacier and of the precipices of the mountain.* which
rears itself to a sheer height of more than 9000 ft. To the left rise the
Pie d*Araill^ and the Pic de Labassa, both ascended from this side (p. 148).
From this point to the Vignemale there is a ohoice of two routes. One leads
to ihc8.£. to (1 hr.) the HourquetU d'Ossoue or Col du Vignemale (8965 ft.),
beiwecn the Pic de Labaua (p. 148), on the left, and the Petit Vigt^emdU
(10,515 ft.), on the right. On the E. side, about 230 ft. below the col, is the
Refute dm Vignemale (p. 146). Again ascending to the right and skirting the
E. slopes of the Petit V^nemale, we reach the Qlader di'Ououe or Grand
Olader du Vignemale^ which extends on the right upwards of U/3 M. in
length and 1/3 M. in width. It is advisable not to cross this glacier, but to
skirt it so as to avoid the most dangerous part, a detour which takes IV9 br.
Finally we cross a little bit of it, using the rope ; then the n^vd between
tbe Mon^errat or CerbiUtna on the left, and the Pique Longue on the right,
arriving in V2 br. at the foot of the latter, the principal peak, which is
climbed in 20 min. more across loose red slate. — The second route, longer
V' about IV4 hr., but easier, leads from the Oulettes de Vignemale (see
iboTe) to the S.W. over the (1 hr.) Col des Mulets or des Oulettes (7600 ft.),
"n ibe frontier, whence, bending to the left, we continue at the same level
as far as the (30 min.) Clot de la Hount^ an iee-filled gorge. Avoiding this
gorge, which is dangerous from falling stones, we next climb to the left
to the (31/3 hrs.) top of the Jion^errat (10,575 ft.) and so reach the n^ve
of the Glaeier d'Ossoue. Thenee to the foot of the Pique Longue (see above),
Vihr. — The Vignemale (10,820 ft.) is the highest summit in the Freneh
P.^renees, the Monte Maudits with the Ni^thou (11,168 ft.) and the Maladetta
(11,005 ft.), the Pic Posets (11,045 ft.), the Mont Perdu (10,965 ft.), and the
Cylindre (10,915 ft.) being in Spain. It rises in nine peaks, the ehief of
which is the Picue Longue, separated by an impassable chasm from the PetU
Vignemale (10,515 ft.), which may, how'ever, be ascended in II/2 hr. from
the Hottrquette d*Os80ue. The panorama from the Vignemale is most ex-
tensive, but it eonsists solely of a chaotic assemblage of mountains, hard to
identify at this height, except those of the Marbor^ group. The Grottes
I^usseli, near the Col de Cerbillona (10,500 ft.), 30 min. below the summit,
10*
148 IL Route 2L LAO D'ESTOM. ExcunioM
have unfortunately been buried by the glaeier, but they are to be re-
stored , and a new grotto has already been exeavated 3d0 ft. higher up.
— The descent may be made on the Gavarnie side (see p. 164).
To THE Pic d'Araille akd the Pic de Labassa, about 6I/2 andSi/ahrs. \
guide 15 and 20 fr. We follow the Vignemale route as far as the (5V4 ^^^•)
Ouletiet du Vignemale^ where the bridle-path to the Col d'ArailU (see below)
ascends to the left between the slopes of the Pie d^AraiU^, on the left,
and the Pie de Labassa, on the right. We pass through two f^V^x ^'
speetively 8/4 and I3/4 hr. from the Oulettes. The Pic d^AraiU« (9060 ft.)
is easily ascended in less than 1/3 hr. from the first gap and commands a
fine view, in which the Vignemale is conspicuous. — The Pie de Labasia»
La SMe^ or La Sibe (9780 ft.), is on the other hand a laborious ascent, in
the higher part at least, which requires nearly U/a bi*- from the second gaj).
The snow-covered summit commands a finer view than the Pic d*Araille.
The descent may be made on the S. side to the (1 hr.) Refuge du Vignemale
(p. 146), or from the Ool d'Araille to the (l-lV4hr.) Lac d'Estom.
To the Valley of Lutour, 3Vt l^rs. to the Lac d'Estom; guide
(unnecessary) 10 , horse 10 fr. This valley opens to the left at the
Pont de Benquh (p. 145). A. little higher up is the Cascade de
Lutour^ just short of which riders cross the stream, while pedes-
trians ascend straight on. The steepest part of the path is passed
within 1 hr. from the confluence, and the footpath rejoins the hridle-
path by means of the Pont d'Arrioutort (4440 ft.). Farther on (about
2 hrs. from Cauterets) we pass a dairy, known as TjG FruitUre.
The path by which the Pic d'Ardiden is ascended from this side
(see helow) diverges to the left; the scenery becomes striking. The
slope on the right is well-wooded, while that on the left is farrowed
by ravines, and terminates in a rugged rocky crest, which cul-
minates in the Pic d'Ardiden. We recross to the left bank by the
Pont de Pouey-Caou (5035 ft.), beside a triple Cascade, and ascend
to the Lac d'Estom (8205 ft.), which is a little smaller than the Lac
de Gaube, but no less picturesque. It is colder and contains no flsb.
On the bank is the Hdtel du Lac d'Est<ym (R. 5, B. IV4, d^j. 4V«.
p. 5Vt fr.).
Farther up, to the right, diverges the new bridle-path to the (1 hr.)
HourqueUe or Col d'AraHU (beautiful view), by which we may ascend (with
guide) the Pie d^AreriUi (see above) or reach (about 4 hrs.) the Lae de Oaube,
returning thence to Cauterets.
Still higher up the valley lie seven lakes of different sizes , known
as the L€U!8 d*E»tom-8ouhiran. About 3 hrs. are required to reaeh the
end of the valley, whence we may ascend in 1/3 hr. to the Ool d*E*tom-
SouUran^ which commands a striking view of the Vignemale. — To
Gavarnie via this Col or the Col de Vallerouge, see p. 146.
To TBB Pio d^Ardidbh viA Pbtiaodtb, 6 hrs., guide 20 fr. This ex-
pedition is well worth making. We ascend paat the (l/s !>'•) (Grange d« la
Beine Hortense (p. 144) and farther on to the riaht (6. W.) towards the crest
of the mountain, then turn to the 8.E. to the (2 hrs.) CaboM de Pepraoute,
to which point riding is practicable , and thence to the Ool d'Ardiden. We
next enter a gorge full of fallen rocks and containing the (1 hr.) Lae*
d'Ardiden^ the largest of which (i/s hr.), the Lac Grand (7806 ft.), affords a
magnificent spectacle. Thence, crossing some snow, we gain the V. slope
of the peak, the ascent of which is toilsome, and in 1 hr. more reaeh tbr
top of the Pio d'Ardiden (9806 ft.), whieh is composed of a chaos of rock»
produced by the disintegration of the granite. Taere is a magnificent view
of the plain, and the surrounding valleys, as well as of the Bala'itous.
■a-ituiti
1 CauUret», PIC DE YISOOS. //. Houte 21, 149
lale, the mountains round Gftvamie, KfSouTielle, eto. — The de-
lay be made to G«uieret« Tii the Yaliep of LuUmr (p. 148) in 3-3Vs >"«•
cent Ib alAO sometimes made from this side. Another descent leads
■8.) Luz (p. IfiO), Tift the lakes mentioned above, the Col d*AstreUy
i ValUe au Bemataou.
THB Pic db VisGOS,4hrs. on foot, a little less on horseback; shorter
. Sauveur (p. 151). Guide 10 fr. \ horse 10 fr. An ascent of 3 hrs.
8 by the Grange de la Reine Hortense (p. 144) to the Col de Riou
; small inn), I/3 hr. from the top of the Ptne-mre (about 6660 ft.),
also the view is very extensive. Thence following to the N. the £.
f the 'mountain, we reach in S/4 br. the foot of the peak and
slimb in a N.W. direction to the Pie de Yiaeos (7035 ft.). The
i finest on the side next the plain, and extends over the moun-
I far as the Balaitons, the Vignemale, Mont Perdu, and Neouvielle.
the nearer peaks, the Cabaliros in the W., the Honne in the S.,
Bergons in the S. E. attract attention.
Luz ASD St. 8aitvbdr ovbk thb Col db Riou (by the road, see
md below), about 5 hrs* ; guide and horse to the col 8 fr. each, to
T. — To the Col de Riou, see above. We descend by the Orangtt
illes (4165 ft.) to the hamlet of Ortut^ whence, proceeding to the
I Sazot and Stusii^ we reach Luz or St. Sauveur in about 9/4 hr.
Gbdrb otbk thb Col db Gvlaovs, 91/s-10 hrs., with guide. We
the Vattep 0/ Luiemr for about 31/s hrs., past la FruiHhre (p. 147),
verge to the left and mount by the Ravin de Lancu$$e to the Ca-
Gulaotu (6740 ft.) and the (3 hrs.) Gol de Culaons (8760 ft. ; snlendid
whence experts may climb in 1 hr. the Sown de Ceitride (9u68 ft.).
9. Descent from the col via the Lae Noir (l/shr.; 7660 ft.), the
oc dTArroufet (S/4 hr.; 6810 ft.), and the Oranget de Bui (U/, br. ;
I, with hot springs, to the (3 hrs.) Gavamie road, >/« ^' from
>. 150).
22. Luz, St. Sauveur, and their Environt.
I. From LoitfdM to Lui and 8t. S«iTOiir (Bftr#gos).
.WAY to (13 M.) Pierre/lUe-NestaUu as for Cadterets (p. 139); thence
c Railway to Luz (71/2 M., in 50 min. ; fares 2 fr. 70 c, 3 Ir.). Car-
Iso during the season as for Cauterets.
electric railway diverges from the line to Cauterets at S'tt'
. 139), crosses the Gave de Cauterets and, beyond the^sta-
Soulom, the Gave de Pau also. Thence it follows the car-
•ad, with a station at Villelongue, About 1 V4 M. from Pierre-
;ins the *Qorge de Luz, 5 M. long. The line ascends until it
t 260 ft. above the stream. — ^ M. Pont de la Crabe, a lofty
over a ravine on the left, beyond which a tolerably wide
)a8in is entered. — We cross the (i'/t M.) Pont de la Hiela-
de la Reine (station) to the left bank, but in order to reach
ross by the (6V4 M.) Pont de Pescadere, beyond which the
ns under a fine avenue of poplars. To the left is the ruined
'i de Ste, Marie (14th cent.). — 7V« M. Luzy see p. 150.
SQ who are bound for St. Sauveur continue straight on pAst
it de Pescadere, and ascend beyond the confluence of the
e Gavamie and the Oave de Bastan, which unite to form
e de Pau. — 7Va ML, St, Sauveur, see p. 150.
150 IL Route 22. ST. SAUVEUR.
Lnz. — Hotels. *H6t. db l*Ukttbr8 , R. 4-6, B. li/j, d4j. 3, D. 4 fr. ;
H6t. db Lovores, at the bridge^ db l^Europb. — Oafit at the hotels. —
Etabliuement Thennal. BuvetU^ 20 c. per glass of mineral watery sub-
scription per month, 10 fr. from July 1st to Sept. 15th) at other seasons
half these charges \ baths and douches from 1 to 2 fr.
Iju% (2425 ft.) , a small town of 1504 inhab. , is situated on the
Bareges road and on the Bastan, in a valley of which it was at one time
the practically independent capital. It is much frequented in
summer , both on account of its situation , and the vicinity of the
dependent village of St. Sauveur, as well as on account of the
Thermes, erected in 1881 , when the waters of the Barttm Spring
(81** F.) were conducted from Bareges to the town. The waters are
specially adapted for nervous diseases. The Church is a curious
structure assigned to the Templars and possibly in parts as old as
the 12th cent. , but with many later additions. Not only is it em-
battled and fortified like many other churches in this part of the
country, but it is also enclosed in a line of defensive works. The
apse is flanked by two towers, of which the one on the N. side is a
kind of keep. The Romanesque N. portal is interesting. At the W.
end, on the right, is alarge 16th cent, chapel. In the Templars' Tower
there is a small museum of antiquities (Vc fi^*)«
To the S. of the town, eharmingiy situated on a knoll, in view of
St. SauTeur, is the Ghapelle de 8olfirino^ a fine modem building in the Ro-
manesque style on the site of one formerly belonging to a hermitage there.
The Excursions from Luk are practically identical with those from
St. Sauveur (p. 151).
St. Sauveur lies little more than */{ M. from Luz. The road
passes the Xbermes of Loz, and crosses the Gav^e deOavarnie; there
is also a sbort-cut for pedestrians, near the bridge.
St. SailYeiir. — K«teU. *H6t. db Fsamcb, R. St/s, B. II/4, d^j. 3l/s, D.
41/2 fr. ; DBS Primcbs J DBS Baims, pens. 8-11 fr. ; db Paris. — Cafi at the
Hot. de Frane«. — rumUhed Apartments,
Etabliaaements Thermauz. Bains desDames^ use of the water for drinking
and gargling, 6 fr. per month in the season (June 35th-Sept. 5th), 3 fr. at
other times; baths s/4-^/2 fi*-? according to hour and season. — Thermes
d$ la Jiontaladt, buvette 10 and 5fr., baths IVa fr-
Ouidea and H«rM Hizen. Henri -Andri Lons, Fr. Serp^ JeoH-MwrU
Thomas. — TariflF given below for each excursion.
Engliah Chnvoh S«rvioe in summer.
0
St. Sauveur (2525 ft.) is a prettily situated village of modern
origin, consisting of a single street, running up the £. slope of the
Som de Laze (6()25 ft.), above the gorge through which rushes the
Gave de Gavarnie. The warm sulphureous springs are chiefly used
for maladies of women and for nervous diseases. The Etahlissement
des Dames is fed by the spring of that name (93'> F.). Below it is a
fine public promenade, known as the Jardin Anglais^ sloping steeply
down to the stream, which is crossed by a bridge giving access to
the direct road from LUz to the Pont Napoleon (see p. 151).
The Thermes de la Hontalade are situated 820 ft. above St.
Sauveur, on a plateau reached in lOmin. by an easy ascent. The water
(70° F.) resembles that of Les Dames, but contains a larger propor-
PIC DE BERGONS. 11. Route 22. 151
tion of sulphate of i^oda. The Plateau de laHontalade, which
commands a fine view, is a faTourite resort.
On the road to GaTarnie , the *F«ii( NapoUon , 390 ft. long', with a
span of 150 ft.^ crossee the stream at the height of 313 ft. At a distanee
the bridge looks like a gigantie portal to the ravine, especially when
viewed from the bank of the stream.
II. Sxeartions from 8t. 8auv«nr.
To Cadtbkbts, via the Col de Riou^ see p- 149; to the Pie d'Ardid^n^
see p. 149.
To THE Pic db Viscos (7025 ft.), 3i/a-4 hrs. ; guide 10, horse 8 fr. This
easy and interesting excursion follows the Gol de Kiou route to the K. W.
as far as the (1 hr.) Oranges de Cureilles p. 149) , then leads to the right
to the Pie, which is sealed on the N.W. side (see p. 149).
To THE Pic db Beboons, from Luz or St. Sauveur, a favourite and
iuteresting excursion, 3 hrs. on foot, 2Vthrs. on horseback; guide
(unnecessary) 8 fr., horse 6 fr. We leave Luz by the Bareges road
(p. 155) and ascend to the S. via Villenave (2625 ft.), by a well-beaten
track which presents no difficulty (from St. Sauveur a new bridle-
path ascends to the left beyond the Pont Napoleon ; see above). The
*Ke deB^rgoni (6790 ft.), an almost isolated mountain, is one of the
best points of view in the district. The panorama to the S., embracing
the huge group of the Cirque de Gavarnie, is inferior only to that
from the Pim^n^ (p. 154); but even from this point the great water-
fall is seen , more than 14 M. distant as the crow flies.
From W. to E. the principal summits seen are the Balaitous, Monn^,
Viscos, and Ardiden, the Vignemale, Gabl^tou, TaiUon, Fausse Br^che,
Biiehe de Roland, Casque, Tour, Pic and Gylindre du Harbor^, Mont
P«du, the peaks of Estaub^, Munia, liergons, Maueap6ra, Pimen6, Long,
Itionvielle, Arbizon, Tourmalet, and Midi de Bigorre.
To T«rB Pic DB Ner^, 3^4-4 hrs. from Luz, a delightful excursion
whieh can be made on horseback part of the way; guide 12, horse
8fr.; adders abound. We leave Luz by the Bareges road and after
'/4 hr. cross the stream. Beyond (1 hr.) Sets (3705 ft.) we continue
to ascend to the N. to the (IVt hr.) Cabanes d'Arb^ousH (5850 ft.),
whence we bear to the W. to the (1 hr.) Col d'Arbeoitsse (7105 ft. ;
fine view). A climb of Vs hr. along the arete brings us to the summit
of the*Pic de H*r* or Sow de Nhre (7875 ft.), which affords a beau-
tiful view. — Ascent from Bareges, see p. 157.
To THE CiBaxJE DE Gavabnie, 12 M. by road to Gavarnie, thence
Ihr. by bridle-path; guide unnecessary;' seat in a brake 2V2» re-
turn-ticket 3V2 fr; carriage with 4 seats, 16 fr. for 1 day, 30 fr. for
Idays; landau, 20 and 35 fr. This is one of the finest excursions
in thft Pyrenees and should on no accotint be missed. By starting
early the ascent of the Pim^n^ (p. 154) may be included in the day's
excursion — The roads from Luz and St. Sauveur unite at the Pont
Napoleon (see above). Thence we ascend the right bank to the
foot of the Bergoils (see above) and enter the Oorge de St. Saiweur,
formerly fortified. — Near the (3 M.) Pont de Sia (3610 ft.) are a
waterfall and a ruined bridge, beyond which the ravine expands
15(2 .//. BaiUe 29. OAYARNIE. Ezcur$Um$
into a little valley. — 4Vb M. Pont d*Arroucai (2840 ft), neai the
hamlet of Prcignirts, To ik% left opens the valley of the Barada,
which ascends to the Lac de Rabiet (p. 158). To the S. is seen the
Pim^n^ , and the Cirque de Gavaniie comes into view at the end of
the little basin which our road now crosses.
7 Vt M. OMre (3265 ft. ; Hot, de la Grotte'Pala$$et), a village at
the junction of the Hdas and Oampbieil valleys, on the left, with
the Gavarnie valley, on the right. Behind the hotel is an uninterest-
ing 'grotto\ or rather cutting, whence the Gave de H^as issues (50 c.).
From Oidre to the (Hrque de Troutnotue^ see p. 154; to the Pimenf,
see p. 154; to Cauterets^ see p. 149. — Ouides: Fr. LavignoUy Somliy niek-
named Lixandre^ and Henri souU.
The road next traverses the Chaos, formed of huge rocks fallen
from a spur of the Coumely. The valley becomes arid and desolate.
Farther on we begin distinctly to see the Cirque de Gavarnie.
12 M. Oavarnie (5<>85 ft.; * Hotel des Voyageurs, R. from 3,
d^J. 3, D. 4 fr.; Point de Vue de la Cascade; guides, see p. 153), a
small village originally formed around a hospice of the Templars.
The**Cirqne de Oavarnie appears to be quite close to the village,
but it is an hour's walk to its entrance and */t hr. more to its
head (horse 3, donkey 2 fr.). The illusion arises from the vastness of
its proportions, for which there is no standard of measurement. The
entrance to the Cirque is readily reached (*Hdt, du Cirquey d^j* 3Vt)
D. 4Vt fr*)f but to gain the foot of the principal waterfall is moredif-
jBcult, and during the afternoon a wide berth should be given to tke
cliffs, from which stones frequently fall. This superb amphitheatre,
the head of whose area is 5380 ft. above the sea , is enclosed by
limestone mountains, which rise in three stages to a height of 6900,
8500 , and 9000 ft. The hollow thus formed is 2V4 M. wide at the
base of the mountains, whose crest-line, from the Pic des Sarradeit
(8990ft.) on the W. to the Fie d'Astaum (10,105 ft) on the £., meas-
ures nearly 9 M. The summits of the principal chain, beginuiii?
from the W., are the Qabifitou (9950 ft.); TaUlon (10,320 ft.), to
the left of which are the Fau»$e Brhche (9670 ft.) and the Brhch$ <U
Roland (9200 ft.); the Catqut (9860 ft.); the Tour (9900 .ft.); the
Epaule (10,230 ft.); and the Pic du Marbor^ [iOfilO ft.). The slopes
between the successive stages are covered with perpetual snow and
with glaciers, forming 13 cascades, of which two never dry up.
The principal fall, the famous *Caioade de OaYarnie, 1385 ft. in
height, is the highest in Europe except one or two In Norway. If
there is plen|;y of wator it forms a single fall , but in summer it
depcends in two leaps, of 958 and 427 ft. respectively. The light-
effects in the Cirque are singularly beautiful both at sunrise and
sunset; and at about midday in summer the sun shines full upon
the fall. Those who do not ascend the Pim^n^ (p. 154) should ascend
(20 min.) the little eminence near the inn for the sake of the com-
prehensive view of the Cirque enjoyed thence^
from Luz-St'Sauveur, PIC DO HARBOR^. I L Route 99. 153
Tbe Povi d« Oawiim or de Boucharo (7485 ft.), 3hr8. to the 8.W. of
Gavamie , is the principal pass over tills part of the Pyrenees. About
lV4hr. tbenee Is the Spanish hamlet of Btmeharo or Buiaruelo (4410 ft.),
with barracks and an inn, situated on the Ara^ which a little farther on
eaters a beautiful wooded gorge.
On the W. side of the Oiraue is a break in the line of cliiTs, known
t8 the Xchelle dee Saxradete (11/4 hr. from the hotel), which offers the
only method of ascending from the bottom of the Cirque to its summits.
The ascents are difficult and should be attempted only by experienced
mountaineers with good guides, to be had at Gavarnie.
Ouii>B8. Henri and CilesHn Patuty "Fierre and Henri Pvjo^ Math. Ham-
Hue, Henri Pee, />*. Bernat'SaUe*^ Lcuii JunUy etc. The first two are per-
haps the best guides In the Pyrenees.
To THB BKicHS DS TuQUKKouYB, i hrs. , or less if a horse be taken
from Oavarnie to the Borne de Tuquerouye, SOmin. on this side of the
Br^ehe. Guide 12 fr. From Gavarnie we ascend to the 8.E. , via the
(II/2 hr.) GdtHme* de VBepugnette, to the (l/j hr.) Briehe d'AUant (8285 ft.),
to the N.B. of the Cirque. Thence we descend to the S.E. to (V4 hr.) the
Borne de Tuquerouye (7790 fl.), and to (SSmin.) the Behelle de Tuqnereufe^
a eonloir in which there is a kind of stair with iron clamps. From the
(£ min.) Br4ehe ds Tuqneronye (8775 ft.), between the Pic de Tuquerouye
(9360 ft.), on the W., and the Picde Pinede (MOO ft.), on the £., we enjoy a
iplendid ^View of the Mont Perdu. Near the Briehe is the Refuge Lewrde
Bechebtet9e of the F. A. C. (8745 ft.). Thence to the Harbore', see below.
To THE BeAche de Rolakd akd the Col du Taillov, 4 and 41/2 hrs.
from Gavarnie*, guide (10 fr.) and axe necessary, ^'e ascend by the
(IV4 hr.) Eehelle dee Sarradete (see above) (o the Sarradets Pa$ture$y and
the (1 hr.) Sarradets Spring (7875 ft.), whence there is a fine view. The
route now lies over terraces covered with snow during most of the year,
Mid we leave on our right a col leading to the Taillon Glacier. In
iVihr. we reach tbe Olader de la Brictte and in 1/2 hr. more the Briehe
deSohtnd (920Oft.), a cleft, 180-190 ft. wide and more than aOOft. deep,
wliieh the famous paladin is fabled to have made with his sword Duran-
^1 to open a passage for his return from Spain. It is about 1000 yds.
^0% And the traveller should traverse it and descend to the Ool du TaUlon
(wiufl.), about 1/2 hr. from the entrance, in order to enjoy the magni-
fieeBt view of the 8. side of the (3irqne and of Mont Perdu, etc. — The
Taiaon (10,320 ft.) may be ascended in 3 hre. from the Breche de Roland,
n» the Fawse Briehe (9670 ft.). Grand view.
To THE Pic du Marbor^. A. Via the Breche de Roland, 6I/2
hrs. from Gavarnie; guide (25 fr.) and axe necessary. As far as the
Briehe de Roland (4 hrs.) see above. Thence we proceed to the S.E.,
pawing in front of the (kuque and the Tour du Marbori^ which may also
be ascended from this side, and gain in 1 hr. the Col de la Cascade (9640 ft.)
between the Tour and the Epanle du Marbore, whence we enjoy a superb
view into the abyss of the Cirque. Then we follow the crest (20 min.)
uid the glacier on the 8. slope, whence the summit of the Pic du Mar-
^i is reached in 1 hr. 10 minutes. — B. Via the BiufecHB de Tuquerouye,
returning via the Brfeche de Roland, a fine expedition of the same char-
acter as the preceding. To the (4 hrs.) Briehe (refuge), see above. Thence
the route passes to the E. of the Lac Olacd du Mont Perdu^ via the crevassed
Olader du OgUndre, and then, beyond a crevasse , leads by a cornice and
over the (21/4 hrs.) Col du Q^Undre (10,070 ft.) between the Cylindre and the
Jfnmit, which lies Va hr. farther to the N.W. — The •Pio du Xarbor«
uO^O ft.), the Bumniit of which forms a huge platform, is perhaps the
JMt view-point in the Pyrenees, after the Cylindre du Marbori (10,916 ft.),
we ascent of which is dangerous. We complete the circuit by returning
▼la the Briche de Roland.
To Moet PESDVi A. Via the Breche de Rolamd amd the Marbore
*«Uacbs, the shortest route, 7 hrs. from Gavarnie: guide (30 fr.), rope,
*^d axe necessary. As far as the Col de la Catcade (5 hrs.) see above,
lurning to the £., we gain by t^ra^s apd spgw-fields the fppt qf \i^^
154 II. Route 22. PIMl^N^.
Pie du Marbore Glaeier, then the 8. glacier of the Gylindre, whieh we
cross to the Cheminie du Cylindre (S/4 hr. ; shelter-hut). Then leaying, on
the left, this chimney, whieh is difficult to scale, we gain without diffi-
culty a gAP l>y which we descend to the 8.E. to the Utang du Mont Perdu
(10 min.; 9925 ft.) and thence in 1 hr. attain the summit of the Mont
Perdu. — B. Viil thb BRicHB ds Tuqdbrouyb , same kind of expedition.
To the (4 hrs.) Briehe de Tuquerouye (refuge), see p. 163. From the
glacer-lake we continue to cross the (S^laeier du Gylindre (1 hr.), but
trend to the S., and then cross a crevasse and scale a rocky wall (V4 hr.).
Thence the ('Ahr.) Col du Mout Perdu (10,186 ft.) is reached without
difficulty, and the summit is gaihed either via the Etang (see above) or
via a narrow crest between deep precipices. Xont Perdu (10,996 ft.),
the highest peak in the Pyrenees after the Pic de Nethou (11,168 ft.),
Maladetta (11,006 ft.), and Pic Posets (11,045 ft.), is, like them, on 8pani8h
territory. It forms part of the limestone mass of the Cirque de Oavarnie,
but it lies out of the main chain of the Pyrenees and the view from the
Pic du Marbord is finer. Together with the Cylindre (10,915 ft.) on the
X. W. and the Soum de Ramond (10,760 ft.) on the 8. E. it forms a group
known by the 8paniards as the Three Sisters. On the 8., as is almost
universally the case on that slope of the Pyrenees, the mountains are
barren and desolate.
To the yigmemale (10,890 ft.), vtd Ououe and Montf errata the shortest
route (from Cauterets, see p. 147), a fine excursion, but laborious; 6 hrs.
from Oavarnie; guide (90 fr.), rope, and axe necessary. We ascend the
Ossoue VaUey by the side of the Gave without difficulty as far as the
(3 hrs.) Pcu des Oulettes d' Ossoue^ which is feasible only on the right bank.
Then we proceed either to the right along the Gave d'Ossoue to the (iVs ^i*-)
Refuge du Vignetnale (8760 ft. \ inn, see p. 148). whence the summit is gained
in 21/s-d hrs. via the Hourquette d^ Ossoue (p. l46)^ or we may ascend to the
8. W. in the direction of the Mon^errat or CerbUlona (I/3 hr.), where it is
necessary to proceed with care, especially on the glacier (eomp. p. 147).
Trom Gavarnie to Cauterets by the mountains, see 146; to the Baths
0/ Panticosay see p. 139.
To THE Pim^n:^, an easy and iijieresting ascent, 3 hrs. from Ga-
varnie (4V2 hrs. from Gedre) 5 guide 10 fr. ; horse 6 fr. From Gavarnie
we ascend to the £., through woods, to ('/4 hr.) a terrace and (Vi hr.)
a spring. Thence we bear to the right up very steep slopes to (2 hrs.
from Gavarnie) the Col de Pimen^ (8255 ft), from which the view
is already fine. Here we turn to the N. and, by a rather narrow arete,
gain the summit of the *Pi]ii6ii« or Pic de Pimene (9195 ft.), which
affords a grand panorama , including the best view of the Cirque
of Gavarnie, though the chief waterfall is not seen. The Vigne-
male and the Pic Long appear to advantage.
To THB CiBQUB DB Tboumousb, 81/2 hrs. from G^dre; bridle-path, guide
unnecessary; horse from St. Sauveur 8 fr. -^ From Gavarnie to (41/t 1I-)
Oidre., see p. 153. We take a stony path near the Hdtel Palastet to the
Valley of Uias^ which we ascend along the left bank of the torrent,
where the road is better than on the right bank. Farther on as hort-eut
leads across meadows. On the other side is the Valloy of CampbUa^ bv
which the difficult ascent of the Pie Long (10,480 ft.), the highest
point in the granitic mass of N^ouvielle (p. 158), is occasionally made.
Then we cross, at the foot of the Goum^ly, a CVkkM similar to that on
the Gavarnie road. In 1 hr. 10 min. from Gedre we cross to the right
bank by the Pont de la OardeUe. On the left is the Montevne do Camp-
long. Then on the other side is the mouth of the Val d'Sstaubi^ whieh
also ends in a 'cirque*. The valley of H^s is here stQl choked with
blocks of rock , the result of a landslip in 1650, known as the Poprade
(4490 ft.), which dammed up the stream and formed a lake, in its turn
destroyed by a flood in 1708. On the left is a huge block , known a»
BAR&GES. //. RmUe 23, 155
the CaUlou de V Arrays , on which the Virain Mary is said onee to have
appeared^ a statue was erected here in I80B. — About 40 min. from the
bridge (4 H. from Gedre) is H^as (4855 ft.), an insignlQcant hamlet. —
10 min. Chapellede HiM (5075 ft.), dedicated to the Virgin and a place of
pilgrimage for this district, partiuilarly on Aug. 15th and Sept. 8th. Adjoin-
ing it is the small H$Ul de la Munia (dear). — We next pass a pyr-
amidal rock called the Rocher or Tour de Lieuiaoube and enter a gorge
beyond which, to the S., appear the peaJcs of Troumouse and the Munia.
In 1/2 hr. more the valley forks. We take the path to the left and
follow the right bank of a torrent which forms several waterfalls, not-
ably the Cascade de Mataras , and in 1 hr. reach the Girqne de Troumouse
(5905 ft.), less grand than that of Gavarnie but nevertheless of noble di -
mensions, 21/2 M. in diameter and from 2600 to 4000 ft. in height. At its
head rises the Pic de Troumouse (10,125 ft.) with its gladers and its two
pinnacles, called the Sisters of Troumouse. — On the right rises the Pic
de la Munia (10,335 ft.), a superb point of view but involving a difficult
climb (31/3-4 hrs. ; guide 30 fr.). — On the other hand, the interesting as-
cents of the Pic de la Qila (9345 ft.) and the Pic des Aiffuillout (9T10 ft.), to
theS.E. and K.E. ofH^as, are easily made (with guide) in 41/3 hrs. eaeh.
23. Bardges and its Environs.
Oomp, Map, p. J4S.
I. From Loardes to Barftges.
Rallway to (13 M.) Pierre/Me- N<e$tala$ (p. 139) ; Blbctric Railway
thence to (Tl/sM.) Luz; Omhibus from Lua during the season to (41/2 X)
Barnes (2 fr. ; carriage with four seats 14 fr.).
From Lourdes to (13 M.) Pierrefitte-Nestalds, seep. 139; thence
to (TVs M.) Luz, see p. 149. The road then makes a considerable
ascent to the N.E. into the Valley of the Bastan or Gave de Bareges^
so that the diligence takes 2 hrs. from Luz to Bareges. At first we
have, left and right, the wooded slopes of the Pic de N^r^ and Pic
de Bergoiis, but beyond (2Vx M.) Betpouey the mountains become
bare and furrowed. The journey is interesting and the road itself
excellent, especially since the last improvements were made, in-
volving the construction of two bridges over the torrent in the
Pontis ravine (p. 156), about IV4 M. from Bareges.
Barrel. — Hotels. De l'Evkopb, R. from 8, 6. 1, d6y 8, D. 4 fr. ;
RicHBLiBU BT D*Av6LBTBRRB, R. from 2, B, S/4i d^j- or D. 3, pens. 10 fr.
Houses and lodgings to let.
Cafte. De Parts^ Richelieu, de V Union, in the Grand' Rue.
Bath Establishment. Fee for drinking the waters between June 25th
and Sept. 5th, 10 fr. for 90 days ; rest of the season, 2-5 fr. — Baths 1/2-2V2 f'-
according to the kind, the hour, and time of year, usual tariff 1 fr. 70
and 2 fr. 50 c. \ baths in public basin 80 C.-II/2 fr.
Caabio. at the entrance to the village; subscription per month 35 fr.,
fortnight 22 fr., week 12 fr. ; reserved seat in theatre 3 fr.
Guidea. Rem. Anclade, Jean, Pierre, and Laurent Caeaux-Palu, Marc Honia,
Jean-Marie ffonta-Pontis, Pierre Menvielle, Ant. and Clem. Verget^ Laur. Lort.
All these shew the tariff (see the separate excursions) when requested.
Bareges (4040 ft.), a village consisting almost entirely of one
long street running up the left bank of the Bastan, has long been
noted for its warm sulphur springs. Owing to its altitude the place
is scarcely habitable in winter, when the cold is extreme. Its cli-
mate is very variable, and the upward limit of ti'ees is only 2600 ft.
156 //. BGiUe S3. BAREGES.
above the village. Nevertheless it attracts many visitors in summer
and is often crowded. The re-planting of the hillsides with trees
and grass has already considerably altered the appearance of the
valley, which is very pleasant in summer.
The Waters of Bareges are impregnated with sulphate of soda, and
are the most powerful in the Pyrenees. They differ but little, and are
all highlv charged with a peculiar nitrogenous substance, called *'bar€-
gine^ or '^glairine', which renders them oily to the touch. Their temper-
ature varies betwen 91.4° (Chapelle) and 111.2° Fahr. (Tambour), roughly
corresponding with the amount of sulphate of soda they contain. They
are used for baths and drinking, in the treatment of surgical eases , the
healing of wounds and ulcers, and for scrofula, gout, rheumatism, skin
diseases, syphilis, chlorosis, ansemia, and certain nervous affections.
There are thirteen springs, the united yield of which is about 60,000 gallons
per diem.
The Bath Establiahment is a handsome building of marble at
the top of the village, on the right of the street descending the latter.
All the springs are here brought together and the bathing arrange-
ments are very complete. — To the left of the baths is a Military
Hospital, founded in 1760, but recently rebuilt. — On the right,
behiTid and at some distance above it, is the Hospice Ste. Eugenie,
set apart for ecclesiastics and nuns from June 15th to Sept. 1st,
while the poor are admitted before and after those dates.
The Promenade Horizontale, the principal promenade of Ba-
reges, begins at the Hospice and runs to the W. below the Ayr^ (see
p. 158) and above the village as far as the Rioulet ravine (see be-
low). There are also walks higher up in the Foret de Bareges or
Bois d'Artigou, which protects the baths from avalanches and the
ravages of the Mour^ torrent. Among these is the Allee Verte (about
5900 ft.), a clearing in the forest, 3 M. distant, between the valleys
of the Lienz and the Rioulet. The Heritage a Colas ^ beyond the
Rioulet, I'/i M. from the Promenade Horizontale, is another plea-
sant promenade.
Avalanches and the rush of waters from the neighbouring mountains
are the two special dangers against which the authorities of Barige«
have to contend. Avalanches of the most destructive character gather on
the flanks of the mountain of Labas-Blancs on the N. and rush down by
four ravines inlo the valley and over the stream to the other slope. Masses
of snow of more than 1(X),000 cubic yds. have thus been hurled upon the
village. On spots liable to be overwhelmed in this manner wooden
buildings only are erected, and these are annually removed before the
winter. The most dangerous spot was the Ravin du Midaou or dt Capt^
behind the Military Hospital. To some extent the exertions of the Forest
Department of the Gl^overnment have succeeded in arresting or lessening
the avalanches, by planting the hillsides with trees and by making em-
bankments or small terraces. The works are interesting^ and from them
there is a good view (2 hrs. there and back). — The Rtoulet Rattine^ on
the left bank below Bareges, is traversed by a torrent which in times
of thaw and after heavy rain used to carry away everything before It that
was not solid rock, and even destroyed the main road-, but it too has to
a great extent been rendered harmless by planting trees and by the eon<
struction of embankments and channels which distribute its waters higher
up. The Pontis Ravine^ lower down the valley, now calls for works of a like
nature. The alteration in the course of the road mentioned at p. 165 waa
necessitated by the risks to which it« previous course was exposed*
PIG DU MIDI OE BIQORRE. //. Route ^3. 157
n. Szonrtioiu from Bartgef.
To the Pie d» MH (ftrom Luz, see p. 161), 3V4-4 hrs. , on foot;
guide 10 fr. , horse 6 fr. (adders abound). We cross the Bastan
about 550 yds. below Bareges, near the Source de Barzun (p. 150),
and proceed to the W. to ('/4 hr). St. Juitin^ once the site of a her-
mitage, commanding a line view. Thence we go N. to the Cirque de
Strs ('/t hr.) and again turn W. a little farther on , descending into
a little valley and ascending the exceedingly steep slopes on the
other side to the plateau on which are the ArbeouMe Huts (about
1 hr.). There we join the route from Luz (p. 151).
To TBE Pio DU Midi de Bioob&e, an easy excursion of about
4 hrs., which should not be missed; guide (unnecessary) 10, horse
7 fr. The night may be spent in the small hotel near the top of the
mountain, in order to see the sunrise, but it is advisable to secure
a bed beforehand, as otherwise the visitor may have to sleep in
the public room. In any case an early start should be made so
as to reach the summit before noon, as mists often hide the lower
ground during the afternoon. We follow the road above Bareges
on the left bank of the Bastan, crossing the stream by the (Vg hr.).
Pont de Tourndbuut (4755 ft.), and then ascend to the E. along
the flank of the Labas-Blancs , passing in ^/^ hr. the point where
the path to the Lac Bleu (p. 158) diverges to the left Our route
tarns to the N. and reaches (*/4 hr.) the Cabanes de Tone (6370 ft.),
where a route to Bagneres over the Col du Tourmalet (Vt hr. ; p. 159)
diverges on the right. A well -beaten path leads from the Cabanes
to the summit; a short-cut for walkers ascends directly to the N.
Thft greyish dome of the Pic du Midi and its observatory are now
in sight. We cross a brook (^/^ hr.) and mount to a considerable
iieight to the E. of the Lac d*Oncet (7340 ft.), from which it flows.
This lake, about 550 yds. long by 330 yds. wide, lies in a basin
shut in by abrupt heights. — In 2^4 hrs. from Bareges we reach the
Hourque des Cinq- Cours or de Sencours (7780 ft.), a col where the
route from Bagneres is joined , and on which is the Hutellerie du
He du Midi (bed 1-3, B. IVt, d^j. 2V2, D. 3V2ftr.; admission 50 c;
for putting up the horse 25 c). — In 1 hr. more we reach the summit
of the mountain by many zigzags practicable for horses, passing the
Coldu Laquei (8530 ft.), from which there is a flue view of the plain.
The **no dn Xldi de Bigorre or de Bagneres (9440 ft.), although
in altitude it only ranks 40th among Pyrenean summits , is one of
the first in respect of the view it affords of nearly the whole chain.
This it owes to its isolated position on the side of the plain, over
which the view extends almost without limit , and at times as far
lo the W. as the Atlantic Ocean. The contrast between the plain
and the countless snow-capped summits on the S. is its great charm,
the latter looking like the billows of a stormy sea suddenly petri-
fied. — The summit ends on the W. in a small platform, the preci-
pice on the N. side of which should not be carelessly approached.
158 IL Route 23. PIC DE Nl^OUVIELLR,
On the E. 8ide is- an Obittvatory^ eonneoted by telegraph with
Bagiieres-de-Bigorre (p. 169) ; visitors are admitted under the escort
of an offloial. — By reason of its isolation the Pic du Midi is not
snow-clad in summer, though snow often falls on the summit.
To the Lae Bleu (from Bagn^rea, see p. 163), 9^/^ hrs. ; guide 10, horse
7 fr. For the first hour our route follows the Pie du Midi road (d. 157).
We then turn to the left and ascend in 1/4 hr. to the Cabana d'Aotibe (5066 ft.),
from whieh we gain in II/2 hr. the Col d'Aoube (about 8200 ft.), which com-
mands a fine view, particularly of the NteuTielle. A descent of V4 hr.
to the W., takes us past a little lak«, also blue, to the Xoc Bleu (p. 162).
To THE Pic d'AYai, Sy^-i hrs.*, guide and horse 6 fr. each. Visitors
generally only go to within 1/2 hr. of the top, which is difficult to scale ;
in that ease a guide is not necessary. On horseback we take the bridle-
path through the forest of Bareges (p. 166), traverse the AUie Vtrte (p. 166),
and ascend by a circuitous path to the pastures above the Bioulet ravine.
The same point may be reached direct by a steep footpath along the
torrent. Thence we proceed W. to a fine View Pointy 21/2 hrs. from Ba-
reges j then, retracing our steps for a short distance, we ascend in>/4 hr.,
by zigzags, the flower-decked slopes to the Col d'^A^ri^ whence the view
extends to the Pic de Nere and the Neouvielle. Another l/a hr. brings
us from the col to the summit of the Pic d'AyrA (T996 ft.), but the climb
is troublesome and should not be undertaken without a guide.
To THE Pic db KiotrvisLLB {Lae d^OrrMon)^ an easy and interesting ex*
eursion (6I/2-6 hrs. ; guide 20 tr. ; horse as far as the Col d'Aure 6 fr.). We
follow the road beyond the Baths, leave on the left the bridge crossed by
the Pic du Midi route, and enter the valley of the Eteonbous or Bicou-
gotu to the right, quitting it in V4 hr. by a bridge over the torrent. A
mule-track ascends through a chaos of granite blocks , passw the (V4 hr. )
mouth of the Vallon d"* Aigue - Cltue on the left, recrosses the torrent, and
reaches the (35 min.) lot d^Eseoubotts (69^5 ft.). This lake is little larger
than the Lac d*Oncet on the Pic du Midi, but its environment ot shattered
mountains makes it an interesting object for an excursion, particularly if
we proceed on foot Va^r- farther up to the Lae Blane. The latter is ou
our way to the Pic de IST^ouvielle, on which we leave the Lae de fraetn*
on the Left, reaching (V4 hr.) the Lae Noir (7900 ft.) and following ita left
bank. Thence an ascent of 25 min. brings us to the Col d'Aure (820O ft.)
or Col d^Auberty where we obtain a very fine view of the Keouvielle, Pic
Long, and the Oavamie mountains. — If we descend hence to the left,
towards the lakes ofAi^tert and .iumor, which ore in sight <^m the eol,
we may reach in U/a hr. the Lae d'Orridon (6135 ft.). This lake (130 acres
in area) is well worth a visit; it is dammed up in order to supply water
to the Aure valley (p. 128) in summer, by means of the KTeste de Couplan.
Refreshments are usually to be obtained from the reservoir - keeper. —
Continuing our route to the Neouvielle, we descend fVom the col on the
right, enter another chaos of rocks, and cross higher up from S. to W.
a snow -slope, free from risk, but very- steep towards the end. In
21/4 hrs. from the col we reach the summit of the *Pic de JI4eiivi«Ue
or NdouvieUle , also called Pie d'Aubert (10>1A5 ft.) , which commands a
magnificent panorama of the Pyrenees from the Bala'itous to the Honta
Maudits, with a fine view of the G^avamie mountains, Mont Perdu, Pie
Posets, and, much nearer, of the peaks Long, Campbieil, Mtehant, etc.,
and a remarkable survey of the numerous lakes of this district, of which
27 may be counted. — We mav descend on the W. side to the (3l/a hrs.)
Refuge Packe on the Col Rabiet (7936 ft), above the little lake of that name,
and t3wnce to (4 hrs.) L»* bv the valley of the J»e or (mule-track) by tba
valley of the Bolou, or to (4 hrs.) Barhge* by the valley of the GMr:
To BAOMJSRaS- DB-BlOOBRB VIA THB CoL I>1} TouRMALaT 25 M. , by
carriage-road in 4 hrs., on foot 7 hrs.; carriage 40-60 fr., horse 12 fr. per
day , to the col 5 fr. The road follows the left bank of the Bastan ;
pedestrians and riders may shorten the distance bv taking the Pie du
BAGNERB8-DE-BIG0RRE. //. Route 24. 159
Midi road (p. 157) by which they reaeh the eol in 3 hrs. — 7 M. Col dn
Toamuaet (6960 ft.), between the Pic du Tourmalet (8095 ft.), on the left^
and the Pie dPEtpade (8075 ft.), on the right, one of the highest earriage-
pasAes in Europe. The view is limited except on the Vi. The road
descends by wide zigzags towards the Talley of the Adour^ the old road
is a short-cut for pedestrians and horsemen. — As we proceed we obtain
a very fine view of the Pie du Midi. About 5i/a M. from the eol by the
new road we pass the fine (kueade* de Orippy near the hamlet of Lartiffne
or ArUgues (*IIdt. des Pyr£n6es ; *Hdt. des Cascades \ guides). — 15 M.
Gripp (3495 ft. \ H6t. des Voyageurs). — At (ITl/a M.) 8te. Marit we enter
the Campan raltey (p. 163). — *25 M. Bagnkrea-d^Bigorv^ see below.
24. Bagn^res-de-fiigorre and its Environs.
C§mp. Mmpy p. 14$>.
I. From Tarbes to Bagudred-de-Bigorre.
131/2 M. Railway in 1/3-I hr. (fares 2 fr. 45, 1 fr. 66, 1 fr. 10 c).
Tarhea, see p. 126. — We follow the Toulouse line to Marcadieu
and turn to the right into the line and fertile valley of the Adour.
The best view is on the right. — 4V2 M. SalleS' Adour \ 1 M. Ber-
naC'Debat; 8M. Vitllt^Adout; 10 M. Montgaillard; 11 M. Ordi-
%an. — 12V2 M. PwAzaCf with a fortified church eontalning a re-
redos of the 18th cent, and other works of art. On the hill are the
remains of an earthwork known as Caesar's Camp. — To the right
as we reach Bagneres is the Mont du B^dat (p. 161).
ISVs M. Bagndres^de-Bigorre. — Hotala. Grand-Hoysl db Paris,
B. from 4, B. UA, d^j. 3Vit D. iVai pens, from 10 fr. ^ Bbau-Sxjour, B. 2-4,
B. 1, d^j. 8, D. 4, pens, 9 fr.., both in the Promenade des Coustous (18 and 5) ;
niFsANCB, Boulevard Carnot; Frascati, Rue Frascati, near the Baths; du
BoiPastbuk, Rue d^ l*Horloge, near the tower, R. 3-8, B. 1, d^j. 3^ D. di/2,
P«D8. Sfr., omn. 30 c.^ Viombs (Dubau}^ Rue de Tarbes, near the prom-
enades. — Numerous Vitlcu and Apartments^ those to let being commonly in-
dicated by the window-shutters being elosed; room 2-3 fr. per day.
Cafds. Du CcuinOy Place des Thermes; Riche^ de Londret^ de* Couitouty
Mlit des Goustous; Aieaxwrj next the theatre.
Bath Sata^liBbmMita. Thertms and Nioikermei; ^bnvette', 25 days,
1'^ fr.; priTate ba^tbs 1-3 fr. •, baths in the great basin of the Neothermes,
l-lVsfr-i 25 fr. per month, 40 fr. for the season. 7%«rmeit <f« <9al»<, ^bu>
vette' 5 fr. in July and August, 3 fr. during the rest of the season ; baths
V2-21/2 fr. — A lis<; of PhfticiaR* is displayed in the bath-establishments.
Oaba, for 2 pers. per drive 75 e., at night li/o fr. ; per hour 2 and
'^fi fr., 3 fr. in the ountry ; for 4 pers., per drive 1 and 2 fr., per hour 3
«nd 31/2 fr. — Cal^heB and Landaugy 3()-40 fr. per day. — HoraeSy ride of
^krs., Dfr., per day 10 fr.
Ottidet. Amount y J. M. Courtctdey IdraCy Noguhy Aug. Vidire^ Am.
Verdoux. For tariff, see the separate excursions.
Casino, per season, 1 pers. 90fr., husband and wife 140 fr., each addition-
al member of a family 30 fr. Per month 50, 75, and 30 fr. ; for 3 weeks 40,
60, and 20 fr. ; for 10 days 20, 30, and 10 fr. Admission on special oc-
casions 3 fr.
Sagiish Ohurob (St. Jahu's)^ Rue des Pyvenee«.
Post and Telegraph Olfico^ Place Ramond, not far from the Thermes.
Bagnhres^d^-Bifforre or simply Bagneres (1805 ft.) is a town of
3337 inliab., in a pretty situation on the left bank of the Adour, at
the point where, this river issues from the fine Gampan valley into
160 IL Route 24, BAGNERES-DE-BIGORRfi.
the plain of Tarbes. It is one of the leading thermal stations of
the Pyrenees and enjoys, what many others do not, a mild climate.
It is frequented annually by about 20,000 bathers and tourists.
The Romans were acquainted with its waters, which they called
Aqude Bigerrionum Balneariae, and they erected here yarious bath-
houses and a temple of Diana.
The railway-station lies to the N. of the town. The avenue be-
ginning opposite the exit leads towards the centre of the town, vii
the handsome Square dea Vigneaux, a quiet and well-shaded pro-
menade. A little farther on Is the curious Church of St, Vincent,
dating from the 14 -15th cent. ; the facade is formed by a great
wall, square at the top, with fourteen Gothic arcades, while on the
right it is flanked by a Gothic turret. On the 3. side is a tasteful por-
tico of 1557. The interior presents a broad and short nave, flanked
by chapels, decorated with modern marble altars. There is a fine
statue of the Virgin, by CUsinger, above the high-altar. Some of
the windows have good stained glass.
The Promenade des CoustouB, near this church, is shaded by
trees, extending all the way to the centre of the town. This street
and the Place Lafayette and Place des Pyr^n^es, at either end of it,
contain the principal hotels and caf^s and form the usual evening
rendezvous of the visitors.
The Bath Establishments and the Casino are situated to the
W., the principal street, the Boulevard Garnot and Boulevard du
Casino, beginning at the Place Lafayette. On this side also, in the
old town , is the Tour de$ Jacobins or Tou^ de VHorlope , the re-
mains of a church of the 15th century. This curious edifice Is
octagonal in shape and is crowned by a receding story, with a
gallery and platform.
The Mineral Waters of Bagnerea are now supplied by 90 Sprinigt.
The ehief are eharaeteriBad by the presenee of sulphate of lime ; but they
rary mueh in (heir eomposition and in the uses to which they are applied.
The springs are usually divided into three f roups; 23 are warm sprinff
eontaining sulphate of lime, and also sulphate of magnesia and sods:
3. are warm sulphur-springs ; and 4 are cold chalybeate springs.
For rheumatism the waters of the springs known as Le Daapbin,
La Reine., Le Foulon, Le Platane, and Le Petit -Barnes are usually
prescribed; for nervous affections, those ofLe.Salut, Le Platane, Le
Orand Pr^, and St. Ruch \ for feminine ailments and diseases of the skin,
those of Le Foulon and Salies \ for diseases of the digestive organs, those
of Labass^re, La Reine, and La Rampe \ for diseases of the urinary canals,
those of Salies and Le Salut: for diseases of the respiratory organs, those
of Labassere and Salies ; and for anaemia , general diseases, and surgical
eases, those of the last two and of La Rampe.
Bagneres has 10 bath - establishments. The chief are the Ther-
me8 and the Neothermei , which, as well as those of Th^as, b«iong
to the town. The others are private establishments.
The Thbbmbs are situated in a square of the same nam», to the
left as we follow the boulevards, and at the foot of the bare moun-
tains whence issue the streams that supply the baths. The build-
BAQN£R£S-I>£-B]GQRR£. II. Bimt€ 24. 161
iog is a plain straciure, dating from 1824, but the bathing ar-
rangements and e<;[uipments are excellent. The baths of this estab-
lishment are fed by the springs of Lc Dauphin (120** Fahr.), La
Rdne (115^, S*. Roch {i(^\ Le FotOon (9a"), Le Platane {9i\
Harie-Therhe or Lea Yeux (91*), Le Roc-de-Lannes (118*), and
St. Bartk/temy (118*), — Adjoining the Thermes, on the N., is the
Buvette de SalUs,, so called from the Saliea spring (124°), one of
the chief in Bagiieres, which is oondncted hither, along with the
waters of Labasslre (64*) and La Hampe (100*)* The Buvettes de
U Reine and du Dauphin, are also here. — ■ Not far from the Bu-
vette de Salies are the Baths of Cataux and of Th/aSf each supplied
by a special spring (114-124*.
The N^OTHBBMSS lie son^ewhat farther to the N., occupying the
groandfloor of the right wing of the casino. They contain large
basins , supplied with running water from the l^ource de la Tour
(113*, reduced to 86*), which yields nearly 220,000 gallons per
day. The Casino, a handsome ediflee, contains ball-rooms, recrea-
tion-rooms, a restaurant, caf^, etc. Its 'park is open daily to the
public until 6 p. m. ; concerts frequently take place in the afternoon.
Among the other bath - establishments are those of BeUevue
(114*), behind the Thermes (higher up afe two chalybeate springs);
tfora (100^), Rue du Theatre, opposite the Thermes; the Petit-
Prieur (96*), under the hospice, a little farther to the S. ; Fcr-
tmes (96*) and' the Petit -Barlffes (91*), farther oif, to the right
and left; and the Qtand-Prt (96* and 89*) to the S.E., in the
XU^ de Salut, a fine a^renue which leads also to th« Thermes de
Soivt,. about ^/s M. from the town (omn. 40 c. there, 20 c. back).
At the Thermes are a small Musee and a Library, open during
the season from 8 to 11 and from 1 to 5.
Bagneres has many pleasant walks. The AUees de iiaintenon,
at the S. end of the town, are rea/^hed via the-Ruf diss Pyr^n^es.
The AU^ du Mont Otitfet, on the mountain - slope behind the
Thermes, abends to the chalybeate springs; and by the Allies
Dramatiques , to the S. of the Mont Olivet , neiur the Thermes de
Salut, we i»ay proceed, to the right, past the Restaurant Carrie, to
ftft Mbnt dii Be'dat (2890 ft. ; '/4 hr.), on which there is a bronze
statue of the Yirgiu. The hill contains some large caves.
In the valley of Gampan (p. 163) , aad elsewhere in the neigh-
beufhood lof Bagnei^s, are Marble Quarries, iwhich yield many
varieties of viaktabie marble; and this town contains several import-
ant Marble/Works, manufacturing chimney-pieces, tahle-tops, etc.
Bagneres is also noted for its woollen knitted goods.
n. Exeursibiii ^oin BagxidreJl.
To THE MoMM^, Shro., Sl/sbrs. on horsftbaek; guide ^tmnieeesffary) 6,
horse 8-10 ff. We ascend flrat by the A\l6tB Dramatiques^' then to the
right aleng Aie hills ^ skirting the mountain ffkmi K. to W. The ]Io«ib4
Baedeker. Southern France. 4th Edit. 11
16^ IL Mmt€ 24, P9C DE MONT AI€IU/
orifpnni de Bugnhttt (UBHtf.) U Ihe hlgheit •uaimlt in tk« inuDeditte
vieinity of Bagn&rjea. U .afford^ » wide yiew of iik^ Tftrbes plaiv on ihe
N., while to the 8. the eye ranges from the Vignemtle to the Maladetta,
the Montalgu ot^posite Baga^^s beittg prominent; to Uie left is the Pie
du Midi and farther off in that direction ike Pie <l*AH>ixoa.. The de-
scent may be wade w Beaudeaq (see below)^ .
To TWB Pjo PE VLo^tAioVy Si/^-QhvB.^ » fatiguiii|} expeditiof^; . guide
Id fr. We follow the Honne road for iVs'br. , then eroas on the right
the Pkdne d^isqvi»u, hirn to ttfe left , ekirting the €cutH t4M ft.), «llinb
thfl steep path of the ScHeOu <kt Pilate, skirt Im P^pttt (5710,11.), qgk the
left, follow a roeky ereat, ,and Ai^aliy skirting the mountain tp the right
gain the top. The Pic de Hontaign (7d80 ft.) affords a very wide view
to the V. , over the neighbouring valleys and the plkln , but the view to
the $. is iimitod owing to the vieinity ^ tbe Pie Au Midi mkI its W.
neighbours. The return may be made by Ihe ^e^popne valley (see below).
To THB Lbsponnb Vallbt avp the Lac Bleu, 31/3 brs. to the Ca-
banea de Ghironlet, 5hr8. to the lake. The visir to the latter is best
made when the dam of the lake is' open. Riding is practleable as. far as
the lake and driving m fair as the Cabanes. 8«ide. (aQn^e««sary) 8,
horse 10, earriag^ 25-90 fr. We aseend to the 6. by the Adour valley,
leaving tferdt and AH^ (see below) to the left, and itMmu^ with its old
eonrent, to the right. At <ihr.).iB«*s4Maa Larvey^ the aelebraled surgeon
(1766-1843X, was born- . Nf a^. 11^ pretty, boase eaUed Prinuri de St. Paul we
quit the Campan valley (p. 163) ' and turn to the right up the ^Leeponne
valley, whieh is shut in' right and left respectively by spurs of the Von-
taiga afl4 Pie du Midi. OiUtivation aoon ee*«ea. la 1 ^. we xeaeh
Letponne ; 3/4 hr,. farther qn are the Hotpital^ and, on the right, a ravine
with the 'pretty Waterfall 0/ Atpl At the head of the ravine appears the
Montaigu, whieh- :may be ascended' henee. About V2 !>'• farther oa, to
the left, is another ra'viae with a view of.tl^ Pi4 da Mi4i, which ia also
apeessible on this side, and 2P jnin. mpre bdng us to the Oa^anet de
Ghiroulet (.H(J(el du La* Bleu, R. '4V«i B- 1V4» d<i- ^/a, !>• 4Va fr.). Beyond
them we leave, OA the right, the road leamig to Ai^^t^e (p. 189), via the
Houvaaette de BaraB<$.a«id the Uaby vallay, aad asoend on ilia laftby •
eonsiderable slope, to (1 hv. 10 mln.) the dam and (I/4 kr. more) tke tas
Bleu (6455 ft.), shut in by a vast environment of roeks, and fully justifying
its name by its fine blue coKmr. The lake la about 135 aerei in aMa'and
360 ft. deep, but a tunnel has beea aia<|eqa.t^e H^i^ 900 yda- long ieloeed),
for the purpose of augmentii)£ th^ Adour in dry seasons. This redueea
the level of *the water about 85 feet.
'To the Pi« Mlnal de Bigana, 1 or U/a day, see p. 107. ^ t^t
aseenton Ibis side la best atada by aUrting frbm (la^/t Ml) ArUg^m if. IW,
where guides and horses are mote conveniently obtained (eleetne rail-
way under cpnstruction). Thence thA ascent requires il/j-Shrs.. v{& Ae
YeuUe (STAHtH aAd the Gor^e de'SefUxmn^ beyond whMh we j<Hn the roa4
from Bargee, at tke'.£aA d'^tiui ^p. 157>< The rduAe yU th» Umrmriet
(p. ifiO). is longer, but a great part of it, as fav as Un 4^aa«a d^^mie
(p. 157), Va br. from the col and l^a br. from il^e top, maybe made by
carriage. '
To Bariget vli the IbttttnuUet^ gefe' p. 158. • '
Ta r«B PiME 0k LHtoB,'8hrs., guidA 6 fie., 9 A** «s«i« if tha return
is made by OvdineMat horse to, the lua lOAr. t an CJtaataieQ of apaeial
interest for botanists. We follow the Adonr valley to ihe $. , ero^l the
(Va M.) Pont <U Gerde, and proceed to (II/4 M.) Atti. Thenee we aaeend
to the left for abea« I hr. in ihe tavtae of the lAMi' brooii, wheaee
we climb the mountain to the right, vi& a wood, some pastures, and the
Col du nilet (4316 ft. ; fl^e vUwjL to the h bTi) Aulhifge ^ TVmmi/art, whose
name reminds us of the great botausrs' explof aiions ' in this neighbour-
hood {1606- 1708)c On ihe right towere the.C^«««, a raeky waU whiek re-
turns a remarkaUa eeho. Froaa there we senunMa direet to the peak by
the A» da ^at, or, logger bai«asi«r< alinib «o ika left by ihe fMM ^ArrU
S^ •' - Si Tt • * /*■
,0
— ;a acv--- — tr*-^* TC- - -'-'\
ST. BERTRAND-DR-COMmOES. //. Route ffd, 468
OT des C0t%eM*9. Tke Mne d« Ui^rU (0S235 ft.) commands only li limited
n'ew IB tke iKte«ti<m of the mountains but a Tery fine one OTer tlie
plftin, similar to tbat from the Pie du Midi but more detailed owing to
the lower elevation. — The descent is often made by the Oof de Lhiri*
(4525 ft.) and the Cabanet dC'Ordinekde rMlf^ft.) on the 8.., whence there
is a splendid view of the Oampan Vaney (see below), by which we re-
tarn to Bagn^res.
To Arhbau (Luchon) via the Col d^Aspih, TS^/^'M.y carriage-road. —
To BeaucUan (3M.), see p. 162. We then follow the delightful Campaa
Valley, which is bordered on the right by green hills with bright pastures
and on the left by sterile rocks. It takes its name from the vampfini^
who inhabited it during the Soman period. — 9^/4 H- Catftpan (inn) has
given its name to a well-known kind of green marble, shaded with red and
white. — At (Ti/s M.) iSfoi Uori* (Sot. Larrien) the mad ftrou Bareges,
over thei Col d« ToumiAlet, joins <mm* eout^ (p. 100). ^ The Arrean road
now ascenda the S^oube VatUpy which is a continuation of the Campan
valley. — 11 H. PcaUoU (9640 ft.) , a tavern in a hol|QW still covered
with pastures but sarrounded by forests which indieate" our approach to
tke higfaer mountniM. The /% dTArkizim (9S85 ft.), to the & , may be
aseeaded in 1 day from Paillole; the ascent is difficult and should not be
attempted without a eood guide. — 12Va M. Etpiadet, a hamlet, with ttie
Campan Marble Qmarna (see above). '- The road now zigzags up throagh
pine-foreeta. — 151^ M. 9«1 d'Aapin (4diaft.)« from whieb^ and still better
fro^i the height on the left, there is a magnificent *View of the Aure Veaiejt
(p. 128), which we now descend oy great zigzags (short-cuts for walkers via
A*pin). — 23i/2 M. itrrsav, see p. 138.
:/
26, Bagntoes-de-Lucbon and its I!nyiro^8.
I. rrmn Hoatr^Mta (Tftf b«8) to BagiAr«i*d«'>L««'lMiii.
221/3 M. Rahwat in l-H/a hr. (fares 4 fr. 5, 2 fr. 70, 1 fr. 75 e).
MontreJeaUf see p. 128. — We leave the Toulouse line on the
left and enter the Garonne valley. — 3^/4 ^. Labroquere^
About 2 M. to the 8. is 8^. Btrtrai^d-de-Comiafeff (^6t de Cominges),
tbt ancient city of the Convente (Intgdunum Gonvenarum) , a place Qf
iaportanee under the Boman? but reduced to ruins towards the end 6f
the 6th cent, after the overtlirow of:6ondovald, the rival otf King Guntram,
vbo had taken refuge here. At present it ia a small town of d84 inhab.,
wbieh owes its name to one of Its 'beei* )ni(ywn bMho|»^ Its situation
upon an isolated roek renders it eonspienous from a distance The old
*Cttludrmt te one of the most interestinit in the S. of Franee and i^articu-
larty worth seeing. In part it dates from the time of St. Bertrand (1062),
bot it is chiefly the work of Bertrand de Ooth, who was its bishop (1205*
1399) and later became Pope (Clement V). The fafade le flanked by a
square tower with a ntodern spire. Its portal has eolumns with cnrioasly
decorated capitals and other sculptures, indiiding an antique bead of Jup^
iter. Several Bioman inscriptions kre also built into the facade. The
iaterior has a fiiAe GotMe narre , over 80 ft. in height , wfth eleven side
chapels. The moat eonspienous features, howevier, are the '*ftood Loft amd
the *Ch<rir Screen, superb examples of e^ly-Renaissance woodwork, com-
pleted in 1536 and forming as it were a second edifiee within the ehnreh,
of whiab the ehoir occupies the greater part. They are equally remarkabbe
for the richness and for the variety of their earving, though in flis reapect
surpassed by the SS^Stalls to be found within. The *IIigh Altar has also
some remarkable carvings rejlresentlng the lives of the Virgin and af
ChrUt, and at the side of the entranee of the chvrchis a dilapidated
orgaa'case also of the Benaisssnee pmod. Behind the choir is the tomb
of St. Bertrand (14S2X. In the 1st ehapel on the left is the •Tomb of
^li»p Rngh de-Ohltlllon, of the 15tb centu^. The sacristan who shows
11*
16i JUR(nUe26, BAGNf»fiS-Dfi-LUCHQN.:
thp choir (ring the bell thrieo) •Iso- shows the fi«e BomMieaqve eloisters
(33 ftrcftdes) on the S. of the church and now in riuBC, and the ••eriaty,
where arc preserved two copes ^ the mitre, nng, Mid ivory pastoral staiS'
of St. Bertrandf and other relics. Visitors make a small offering to the
churehf but no gratuity is expefted.
About Vs M. to the £. of St. Bertrand, in the fi^lds, on the way to
(35-40 min.) Loure»^ where the train can be rejoined (see below) , is the
Church 0/ J3L Just , in a burial - ground entered by a Romanesque door-
way into which an antique inscription has b^en built. The church, also
in part of ancient materials ^ Is a somewhat ehimsy building in the Bo-
manesque style, with a side-portal and eiborlum of the 13th cent. , both
worth notice.
For the Orotie de 0(trg<u^ 5 Sf . to the V. of St. Bertrand, see p. 138.
We croBfl the Garonue a little beyond Labroquere. — 5 M. L<mre§,
IV4M. to the N.E. of which is Barbasany with a mineral spring
(sulphate of lime) and a 10-17tli cent, castle commanding a good
view. — 7Vt M. OaUt\ ^ 9^/4 M. Sai€cAa»> the station for the
baths of 8te. Marie, ^/^ M. to the N.W. , and for those of Siradan,
'/4 M. farther to the "W, Their i^aters are similar to those of Bar-
bazan. -r- The mouutaius at the head of the valley now begin to ap*
pear and we again cross the Garonne* — IIV4 M. Fron$ac, to the
left, commanded by a keep of the 112th century. We once more
cross the Garonne , which descends on the left from the Spanish
Valley of the Aran, — 13 M. Marignac-St-Beat, St. Beat (Hot.
du Commerce) , a sms^ll town of lOOQ infaab. on the bank of the
Garonne, at tlid entrance bf a pictmrMque dellle, has a church and
a castle p«irtl>f of the iHth «eiit.,"Witli a stMu^ o| tke Virgin on the
principal tower. The quarries of grey and white marble here were
worked even in the time of the Romans. To the N. are the Pie du
Qart (5765 ft.) and ^he Pic SaiUant (5860 ft.) whence there is a
very line view. — The line now ascends, traverses a short tunnel,
and crosses three bridges. — i'&^I^M. Llgt; 18 M. Cier-de-Luchon,
We now enter the Luchon valley and have a good view of the snow*
crowned mountains at its head. -- 19^/4 M. Antignac.
22Vc M. Bagaire8*d«*Lnelioii. — The station is V4 M. from th«
centre of the town (omnibus-tramway, 30 c. \ hotel-ommbiisas).
Hateli* GsAHB-HoTBt ds Bommbmaisoii; GhBaiiD'H6TBL , open all the
rear round, R. from 8, B. iV4-l^/ai ^^j. 81/2^ D. 41/t, pens, from 10, ooin.
fr. ; DBS Baivs, R. 6, B. 1, dej. 4., D. o, pens. 13-10, oasn. 1 fr. ; Sacabob,
pens, from 16 fr. ; d^Etigvt bt d*Eubopb( du PAKO-Baoo-VKRDBU.; i»*Aimi.B-
tbkbb; CoMTivBMVAL BT M^TBoroLB i *DB LA PosTB, &i from 3Vt^ B. L dej.
31/s, D, i, omn. 1 fr. ; db la Paul, £. 3^ B. 1, d4J. 8, D. 31/s, pMS. 6-i3 fr.,
omn. 60c. ; Pardbiuuan., R. 3l/3« dei. 3, D. S^/m tt. ; ots Bobabadx ; dbFbakcb ;
Gbhtbal, R. 4, B. s/4, d^. 3, D. 8i/s, pens. UM/s^ oBin. Vt &• \ on Midi. All
theso are ia the Alices d^fitigny. *- Oba«d«Hotbl Ricsblibv, Rue d'£a-
?acne et des Thermest ntur the Baths and of the Arst class t &*. Hdr. db»
'hbbmbs r OB LoKPBBS, Rue des Thermes, R. froBn 4, B. iVs^ didi. 3l/«,
D. 4V«, pens. lO^lS, omn. 1 fr. ; Bar. BaqvA, Allee des Baiaa, R. 4-7. B. 1,
d^j. 8Va, D. 41/b £r. ; Hot. Cabtom, Oturs des Qalnflonces, d^. 8, D. 4 fr. ;
HdTBL db Pabis, Eue d^Espagne, R. 2-3, B. Vs< dH^. 8, U. 4 fr. ^ Qb. H^t.
DB LucBOB bt dv Oasimo, Boulevard Ans^d^-Fontan, near the Oaslno.
Villas, ArABTBtmTs, abd Rooms to Lbt. In the Conrs des Quia-
coBces, VUla Lmrritu; in the AUee d'Etigny (very numerous), J^^rni
(bookseUer), B. Oatew, Gatfuet, LotU^ Bormt^ etc.; in the AUee des Bafats,
QiwAaiS Mmkon ^•rie, TfUa Umtrioin; in the Rue des Thenftes, iStartts; ia
BA<31ffi:lt£S-D£-LVGfiON. I L Routt 26. 166
the £m lAliMrtlBes ikibat; in the Ave»ue du CmIdo, AnmmM*, Airt^'o,
Dtaayrp*;. in the Areaue.de VeoMque, Diana^ Dani^; in the B«e d'Bffasne
(less pretending), Oleye^ Vignaux^ La/ranque^ Huguet^ Florida^ Merens^ villa
ModeaU^ all well situated. -^ Ladies tr&vellitig alone are recommended
to the ChunetU d* VEtpirmnoe^ Beute dtt fit, Mamet.
Livinf at Lneheo i« exfieuive duztag the seaflon, whieh is at it«
height from the end of June to the end of AugwAt,
Cafia-Sastaoranta. Arnativey Grand Catf^^ *i>t«afi, Alices d'Etigny.
fiat|& Zatabliahment (ofEee elo«ed 11-30 to 2). Drinking^ subseription
for 1 month. 10 fr. between July Ist and Sept. I5th, 15 fr. for the season.
Balht, 60 e.*-3l/i fr. aotordnig to the time oi year and the hour. D&uefut^
30e.-3fr. — The list of Luehon Phpaieiam* is exhibUed in the Eatablisbment.
Carriaf ea for Exeuraions, with Q horses d0>d5 fr., according to distance -y
with 4 horses, 25-40 fr. — Brakes start for the Valine du lys ftnd the Lac
d'Oo daily Hi 12 noon •, fhre 3 or 4 fr. each, or more, according to number
of passengers; the fares and times Are posted up in the AUees d'Ktigny.
Enquire at No. 42 in the Allies or opposite in the Passage Saccar^de.
Onidas and Horses are numerous and regulated by tariff (see exeur*
stoBs), but it is alwH^Ts prudent to ascertain charges b<efbreh4nd. Ad-
missioA fees , tolls , and horses for the guides are at the cost of the tm-
veller. Most of the ^guides* u^erely let horses or act as conductors for
parties on horseback, and a bargain must be made with them (tt-8 fr.
per day and as knueh more for a horse)^
HaaBtain ChnANk The French Alpine Club tariff is 10 fr. per day foi
ordinary excursions, 18 fr. for higher ascents i porter 8 and 10 fr. ; food
also is at the traveller's expense. The following guides accept this tarift':
/. M. OoMttXy B. and J. Otfurrige^ J. Butastrt (nicknamed TettHt)^ Gape
(Bieknamed jrv#4«^), /. BauriUtt, SauHlltn d'Od^ A Lctfmt, RaphiaU,
B. Fttis.
Oaainoi open from June 1st to Sept. SOth: 1 day 1 fr. 50 c, ten days
10 fr., month 30 fr., season 60 fr. inedtrt hit the Casino: reserved seat
^k or 3 fis.,; season-tiekfet 26 fr. Family-tickets at « redaction.
Post and Tolofraph Olftoa, B,«e ^ylvie, to the S. of the AUees d*£tigny.
Ii^flish phnroh Seryioe in summer at M. CorneiUeU Chapel.
Bagnerta-^dt'-lAtchony or simply Luehon (2065 ft.), is a tolrn of
3720 Inhab. , charmingly slta^ted at the end of the valley of the
same name. It is the nearest town to the ceutial Pyrenean range
and has be«n celebrated for its baths from the time of the Romans,
to whom it was known as Balneariae Lixonientea, Frequently ra-
vaged during the middle ages and in later centoiles , this thermal
statien, like many ethers, was at one time almost completely deserted ;
but since the close of the 18th century it has revived, and has for miany
years been one of the most prosperous watering-places in the Pyre-
nees, visited anmially by about 45,000 patients and touriirts. It has
the advantage of its rival Cauterets in possessing a greater variety
of thermal saline and sulphureous springs and a milder climate,
owing to its lower altitude. Its «limate is, how«T«r, more variable.
LuVihon C(>nsists oJT tw<» distinct quarters , ^he old town and the
new. The oM town, the HeAter to the station, whence it is reached
^y a grand avenue of plaire-trees, dating from 1788, id a small
collection of mean houses; with" narrow and tortuofus streets, on the
^^bank of the One and at the mouth of the Arboust ralley. The
modern Hemanesque Chtirf^, decorated with m^ral paintings by
Homain Cazefi) ist the only edifice worthy of note.
164 IJ. Ro^t^i^2^, BA(%]KEE|:S^D£-i.ji;rOja.ONv
The R«w torwn, Du the 4)th«r hand , is furtlier #toi& tiie sUftion
and tower dowft, betwee?n the One and the Fiq[trt. It is about lite
iimes as large as the old town, and is handsomely laid out with
pleasant buildings, villas snrrauuided with <g«rdena, goods treets, and
flae promenades. The *Allee or AUeea d'EHgny, which we enter im-
mediately beyond the old town, is art avenue planted with !fotir rows
of old lime-trees, which extends to the Bath Establlsliment. It is
the centre of the town and takes Its name iVom Megref d'EHgny,
who came to Luohon after 1751 as maigistr«.t«, indueed the cheoaiBts
Bayen and Richaird to «Xftmine the waters, had the Montr^jeau and
Bigorre roads made , and laid out this promenade in 1765. At the
end of. the AU4e is a statue of ,him^ by Orauk- Towards the 8.,
at thfe head of the valley, appear the 9ammits of the Pic de Sawe-
garde and 'Pic de la Mine (p. 172).
. The Bath EstabitIshmsnT) «iituated close to tli« W. side of the
plateau of Superbkgneree, on whieh the springs rise, is a large build*
ing witla nothing remarkable in its exterior save its peristyle of 28
pillars , each a monolith of white St. B^at marble. In the interior
the entrance-^hall (Salle des Pas*-Petdut) is a flneehMnbordeeofated
with mural paintings by Romain Cazes , representing the springs,
oreads, etc^ Two transverse gaUeries lead to the halls for baths and
douches; and a staircase at the -end to the drinking places/ and to
the curious subterranean galleries. An annexe is allotted to vapour
baths and to 'graduated iQoijsteAings' under a speciial system. The
establishment at Lucbon is coiuidered to bfe one of the best or-
ganised iti e!!^i8tenee ; it is open all th^ y«ar totind; • ' •
The M ivKkAX Waters eoiitafn bhIeAy ffdlphatd x>r sddftiiii. ^w of
the adveniages of Luehon as a healtih'-reBort is the great ehoie« preMbtad
by ita 48 springs , whieh vary much in t^oir eomppsition , in amount of
sulphurafion , and in temperature (63** to 151° Fahr.)i and thus allow of
a great diversity of treatment. Tfa^y are, however , eSpeeially employed
in skin Mffe^tioos^ rfaoumatinn ., senofula^. lymphatic ca*es, eatarriu, sy-
philis, and surgical cases. Thf waters are drank and inhaled, but chielly
taken in baths. They change rapidly on exposure to the air, becomiof;
m>ilky and precipitating sulpliar. T^e principal sprittgft, all- sulphureovsi
are known ^j <ikie following names i ilMnc <19a^ Bahrv), ^Bt^^ (tfl<*)^
AzimarJiOr), Richard NouvtlU (122°), QrotU ^upirUurt (131.4°), BUnuhe
(117°), Ferrat Aneienne (100°), Ferraa Nouvelle (106°), Enceinte (120°), SUgnf
(118°), Boiifnet (109>»), JSmtree CIW"), Border (iW), ^idharg Infirieure or
Ameietme (100°), GritUe ktfMenne (IQU°), and 1^4 i,J/, sad /// (140° ^lOS*';
95°), The remainimg springs either differ but little from thaae , or are
used as ^sources alimentaires^ i. e. in a combination of springs of small
outflow. The yield of the warm sulphur springs is over iS2,TX)0' gaHons
par day. There is «tao a Saline Spring ^82°).
In front pf the Bathe. ]Str<etches the flue Promenade dee Quin-
conresy where concerts are giveuin themorniiig fnem 10 to i 1 (in the
Casino from 4 to 6 f^nd from 8*30 to 10 in the evening). Chair 10 v.
during the day, 20 c. for the concerts^ or by subecriptioii.
' Adjoining the promenade is a Jardm Anglaia with a •mall
lake, the JBuvftte de» Pr^y and & Fruitihre for the ^hey^eiiffeL Higher
up is the Boaqttet, a much frequented promenade at the foot of
Saf«rbagnfii«« (p. i70)v with the Foniaini d* Amumr and ceTeral re-
staoraiUa. Behind the Buvelte. du Pi^ ia a Mountain ReMway {ian
76 c., retuTfi'iicliet 1 fi.)» which Ascends the etope ef Sttperbaglieres
to the BdUl^BttHutitnt dtimOhaumihf (d^* or D. 5 fir., inel. wine) ;
it aUorAs ptetty Tiewi* The AUibe dea Bmhu, extending from the
Qoincoaees to the hash of the Pique and eontioued by the AlUe de
la Piq^t£, along .that riT^ef , fozms a ^»menade in the town iteelf.
The Qtand Casino is in the new town between the All^e des
Bains and the Be«ilevard Amid^'Fonten. Jt is a handsome build-
ing situated in : li p«rk of about ^ acted. The rooms ar^ extensive
and ilehly ornamented, including a c€>n«ert^ro>em, ball-room, theatre,
reading^ Iriiliard, and refreshment rooms, etc.
Op tbe Ai«tA<M»rak« aemv iOri^Cf •<<<<• of • mueh iaterest, exeeuted by
Lezat, the engiaeor Oqc repreaeals the whoU ^hai^t of the Pyi«nees on
a scale ofl to ^,000. and another, a wasterpieee of patience and aeeura^
modelled on the' spot, th« central range of tfie same mountains on i : tO,00D
koiuontat atid 1 : OOOO Tcvtieal Mate. Thar« are also geologleal and beUn-
ieal collections, an eahihition of paiatings, . etc. ,
The principal points of interest in the immediate vicinity of Luchon
are CatteMeit and the WaterjaOg of Jugei and Moniuuhwt. — Jnsat lies
aboet 1 M . to tfae K. £. , on tbe rigbt hkiik of 'Ibe Pique , and is i<eaeh«d
by ooMing first tb» railway and tbw the river, net. far fro« tbe station.
The fall, is About 130 (t. high; Vs fr. is charged, for visiting it, but it
can be v^ell seen from the oppdsftt side of the valley. — Xontanban,
U/s M, to tbe B. of Luehon, along- the road ' piiolongiag tbe Rue de Pique,
may alao be riuKcbed ^om ^uzet ia Va hr. T^ fall is at tbe ton of tbe
Tillage and the usual approach is through the cure's garden (50 c). —
CtsteMeil is a Ruined tower (llth ceiitj on an isolated hill (2580 ft.)
about 211. «p the yallipy, to tbe 'left of the road leadiag into Spain. It
tommaads a fine view up and down tbo valltfy of the Vique and of tb)|
▼alley of Burbe to tl^e £. (50 c). In making tlie excursion into the Val
da Lys Cp. 181) we pass tbe tower* Kot fVir from it is a chalybeate spring.
II. BxeuMioaB fki>m Luehon.
To St. B0ritaind^d€-ConUn0e8, QU M., carriage 30^6 fl*. ; rail-
way roote yi4 LoureSf see ^. 163.
*To THS Lao.3>*06, 10 M., of which SM. »Jt% praictieable for
eanriages ; brakes , see p. 166 ; guide {unnecessary) and horse 6 fr.
each j carriage and pair 25 'fr., with 4 horses ^.h', J^n early start
is advlsablo, to avoid the heat After passing through the old town
and along the AU^e dea Souping we follow the Bagn^res-dS'^BigOTre
road, which first ascends ^hallj^ly and then descends Into the Val-
Ity of the^ Arbouaf^ — 2^4 M. Chappie St, Aventin, at. the mouth
of the Oueil valley (p. 169). — 3^/4 M. St, Aventin; a village with
a Romaiiesque ehureh into which some ancient altars and carvings
have been built. — 4*/^ M. Cataux-de-l'Arhoust, where the church
has some rude but interesting frescoes of the 15th centuxy. Here
we leave the Arreau road (p. i2S), turn to the left, and skirt the
right side of the huge moraine , deposited by the glacier which
once lilted the Od valley, descending moreiban 5D00 ft. lower than
thoee of to-day. The tourist will observe many erratic blocks due
* jjo ji a-^H-»^J^^^5^ff '
/rom iMehon. MONN^. 11. BauU 9&. 169
(WBb A.; aik/a laa.)f to the .8.S., aay be Mecaded. Tbe two iMt «re dif-
fiettU; the Tiewa from *U tli;ree are fine.
To THB Pic dm Cibcisib^ 4-41/2 hrs.^ guide and borse 8 fr. each. We
proceed to Cataux (p. 167) and then take an easy bridle-path to the S.,
whieh beyond t40niin.) Mordtt-49-Lahaeh leads direct to the peak, by
the Col dm la CawM-it-B^urg. A shorter b«t more fatiguing route leads
via Superbagneres (see p. 170) and thence to the W. by the arete of
a spur of the mountain. The Fie ds 04oif4' (79T5 ft.) affords a wide
Tiew, one of the finest to be had in the Luehon district. To the 8. it com-
mands a grand amphitheatre of snow-elad peaks, from those of the hya
T&lley to the Pic Posets. — The descent, by the Lys valley, takes S^/% hrs.
To THB Pic on Hovsiou, 41/9 hrs.^ guide 10 fr., horse 6 fr., or
Tfr. if the return is made by the Bsqnierry valley (5 hrs.). To (4Va H.)
Otra«ia:« wmep. 167. We follow the same vc«d for li/j M. terther, passing
fisrm, then diverge to the left, by the route to (1 M.) Oouaux-de- VAr-
iousi. Thence we ascend through meadows , a wood , and pastures to
a slate-quarry whef e we turn to the left and, passing a small Take, reaeb
(lV4hr.) a little col with a spviag. From here to the mimmit, iV4 br. more.
TraveUera intending to return by the Esquierry valley dismount, V2 hr.
from the spring, and send the horses to the Pas de Couret, on the S.
side of the mountain. The Pie de Xean^ni (78(X) ft.) affords a very fine
view of the central chain of the Pyrenees, with its glaoiers, from those
of the Qourgs-Blanes to' those of the Monts Haudits. At the foot of the
truncated cone forming the summit is an echo whieh repeats eight syl-
Isbles. — The descent to the Ftu de Cturet^ to the 8., takes 1 hr. ; thence
tbe Val 4'Esquierry brsinehes to the £. to the Vallee d*Od (p. 168).
To TBS Mojem^, 4Vt^'>M guide 10 fr., hone Tfr. by day, 10 fr.
b) night, when the Mceni is made in order to see the sunrise;
carriftgo to CdViM.) Bourg*d'Oueil and back 80-25 fr. - We folr
low the Lae d'Od road as far as the (2^4 M.) Chqf€lU St. Avan-'
tin (p. 167), where ve turn to the right into the pretty Oueil
VoUej/, in which we pass a succession of small ylilages, well situatr
ed but otherwise uninteresting : Benque'I>e$$ou$ ^ Benque-DeuuA,
Mayiin, (2^/4 M.) St Paul-4*0uca, Uayr^gne, CauboiUy Ciret,
tnd (3Vt M.) Bimr^d' Oueil (inn). Beyond this village we ascend
to the right to (1V« hr.) the summit of the Xomni or Montne
(7045 ft.) , a Tiew-point situated between the plain and the highest
range and eommanding the Pyrenees from Mont Perdu to the Pic de
MontvaUier, a sweep of 50 M. , distant from the Monn^ from 25 to
30 M. in a direct line. The glacims of the central mass as far as
the Monts MauditB are also well seen. The ascent of the Monn^
is most frequently made in order to enjoy the sunrise^ which from
June to the end of August ^ owing to the sun then rising to the N.
of the mountains, lights up their snows and glaciers*
To THB Pio d'Antbnac, 3-4 hrs.; guide (not indispensable)
10 fr.,|horBe6£r4 The route is Identical with the one just described
as far «s (5^/tJf.) St* Paul^'OtuU, .Thence we ascend to the
right by a steep bridle -path into a bare valley and acioes the C(d
dela Svre, The Pio d*AateiUM (about 6560 ft.) affords a view em-r
bracing the Monts. Maadits and the glaciers of Crabioules and of the
Gourgg-BUuca, ■ but more Mpeeially in the direction of the Gar-
onne valley. -^ In returning we may follow tho a^^st of the
mountain southward and descend either into the Oueil valley at
ascend, Bkkting the iorwnL Id 40 rnin. we reaeli the *Blit d'Aifer
(59iO#t.), A striking cfaasm in a ttiouiitaiii*«f slate^ otf which tlie end
and tep can scarcely be aeen^
From the S. end of the Rue d'Snfer a p»th aseaadA U$ ih» 00 mia.)
Sefkye da Pratloanc (6900 ft. ), on the ar^te between tha YalloD da Lys
and the Vallon d*Ai'tigue (fine view), whence the fie of fue de Maupas
iiO^ ft. ; 4 hn.} aikd the Pk dt Momn (10,040 ft. ; 4 hrs.) aiay be aseFirded
(both diffieuU; beafntiful yiews).
To T0B Lac Vert, 4 hrs.^ (^rriage-road to the head of the Val du
L}s, thence a bridle-path; hors^ 8 fr. from the last inn we turn to the
S.E.. in the direction of the Cascade du Coeur (p. 170), and ascend through
the Wood io the ('^ min.) CmteaSg de Solage. Karther on we pasa the
dsseada de Triffim on the left, and raaeh (U/i ^r. from the inn) the (Hrqvu
dtM €lraouHj an ancient lake-bed, and (1/4 hr< more)- th« b^antifn), hOrse-
shoe-sbapBd Lm Tart (6430 ft.), bordered on the £. by high roeks. The
\ik.e reeeives, by a caseade on the S., th« waAers of .the Jmm JU«u, which
lies 40 min. higher up.
To THE Pic dh Bacan^e aicd thb Pic de Bubat, 4t5 hrs.,
9 hrs. thete aiidback; guide 10 fr., horse 8 fr. ; a fine excursion*
We proceed first te Juzet (p« 167) and thence ascend to the M.£.
to (3 M.) Sode (8000 ft)/ Throagh Wood we reftch (5 M.) ArUgut*
(4070 ft.) ftnd (IV4 hr. farther to the £.), the Hackors de dgmUre,
a fine ▼iew>^oint. We next skirt the mouetaifi to the left, and in
IV4 hr. more gein the dMtmmit of the Pie de Bftoantoa (720Jft.), the
view from which includes the valley of Luchon and its side-valleys,
as well as the Aran valley, the Portde la (Here^ Port de V^nesque^
and Port tie la. Piquade <see below), the Monn^ and the Pie du
ifidi, on the sky-line, the Superbagndres plateau, the cone of the
Quatrat, the Mente Mawiits^ ettf. -* About V^ h¥. -to the N. of the
Pic de Bacanere lises the Folei or Pie de Bwat (7060 ft.: Inny
wkieh affords a splendid view resembling those fron the Menni^
and tiie Pio d*Antenac (p. 169)* — The descent may be made to
the W. to ^huaux-^e- Jjuehan, whence -the- LochiAi road may be
reached, to the left.
To TBB PoujASTOU, 41/2 hrs. ; guide 10 fr., horse (as far m the col)
6fr. The route leads via (30 min.) Mo»iaub<m (p. 167), a small wood,, the
(IV2 bf.) PrairUi (tBrretrt (fine view), and the (10 min.) Porit de ISiiartigues^
where we tarn loihe right. W<e next reach the (IV2 hr.) Fanictin^ Ronge^
a chalybeate spring, near the li^le OroiU du Chat (1 fr. ( uaintetesting),
ttd (I/2 hr. more) the Col des Cour^ (6990 Xt.X Tbenc/e th« (V2-V4 i^r.)
sommit of the Podjaittfu (6325 ft.) Is' reached on foot, over Slippery turf.
Here, on the side neat the Aran- val4«y, which is well seen , we are on
Spaaish territory. The glaaiers of the Val dn Lyp are in sight, but cot
those of the Monts Maudits.
*T0 THE POBT DE VjfiNiLSQUE A^TD THE POBT DB I4A, PlQU4.DE
(He die Sauvegarde) , a very interesting excursioA, but long and
fatiguing, requiring a whole day. It may be made on horseback
throughout and even a carriage may be taken as far a$ the (6 M .)'
Hosplca. Guide 10 fp. ; horse to the Hospice 5, to the Port & fr. ^ car-
riage and pair to the Hospice, 25 fr., with 4 hf^rses 30 fr.; toll
at the frotitier 60 c. — We tsi^e the road to Spain described as far
as the i*(mt de, Ravi on p. ItO. . Then<ce we continue the ascent, tO:
the left, of the Pi^ue valley , passing (V4 M.) the Oranges de Labnch
nt) ILR4mte^5^ PORT P£ Y^NASgUE. Eze%r9im9
or dS GmttSiingf usance a road dlvetging to tke right (the old road
aT«r tke Ool.de la Oleie, see below) leads t» (2(V-25 mln.) the Oatcade
dei Demoiaelles (about 4920 ft. ; see below)i 0«r road conilnvea
straiglvt on through the BiHs de Charuga.
6 M. Hotpiee de Franee, du Part dt Venasquef or de Luehan
(4i60ft«)t & large iun where the carriage-road ends and three paths
diverge respectively to the Port de ViSnasque , the old Port de la
Glere , on the right , and the Ports Mouivioyo and de la Piquade,
on the left.
CroMii^ * bridge in front of the Hospice and following the left bank
of the Pique., we eome to a fork of the footpath. The left braueh leads
to (10 min.) the Ckucade du Farititn^ issuing from an exoeedingly narrow
gorge and deseending by five leaps. >~ The right-hand patti at the fork
leads to the (25-30 min.) (Uuea<U det D^anHteUu (see above), at the cAd
of a gloomy gorge shut in between wooded cliffs.
Beyond the Hospice the valley divides at ttie foot of the Pic de
la Piqut (7860 fL) , the ascent of which is dangerous. The valley
to the left is the V4a de U Frecke ; that to the right is the sterile
and desolate Vol du Port de Vinaeqtu, through which a toilsome
bridle-path leads to the (3'/4 M.) Port — 7^/, M. Le Oulet, a spot
covered with detritus brought down by avalanches in the spring ,
here there are two Uttle wateifallsv — 8^4 M. VaUon de VHommCy
so named from the rude monument to a French custom - house of-
ficer who was murdered by a smuggler. Farther on-, to the left , ia
the Trou des ChaudrofMiiert^ where nine tinkers wisre buried in the
si^ow. Then above Ave small lakes, on the right , the path mounts
in zigzags to (10 M.) the *Fort de Ytoasque (7930 ft.), a dip in tke
frontier^ridge betivee4the PU de la Mine (8880 ft.), on the left, and
the Ptc de Sauvegarde, on the right. The view of the Monts If au-
dits which here suddenly opens is superb ; but the prospect is still
finer from the *Fi« de Sauregarde (8975 ft. ; Vi^l hr. from the Port)
which may be easily ascended even on horseback. There is a path
to the summit (1 fr. for its use).
On the other side of the col is a small Spanish inn (moderate).
Bearing to the left along the Pena Blanea, we pass the springs of
Peha Blanea and C&usthres, and, always in view of the Monts Man-
dits, reach (1 V4M.) the Port de la Piquade or Picade (7950 ft.), f^om
which the view is equally fine. We now enter, to the left, tke Pa»
de I'Escalette (7870 ft.), whence we may descend to (5 M.) the Hos-
pice de France past the Col de Mounjoyo (which leads, on the right,
iTito the Aran valley), ^is route, which presents no difllculty,
traverses pastures and finally descends to the left into the Yal de
la Frdche (see above).
To THE CoL DB La Ol^rb (Pic SocToui) ^ 4 hrs} guide (to the lake)
10, horse 8 fr. The old road diverges to the right at the Oraiifes d<>
Labach, in the Piqne valley <p. 171) i the new raad starts feom.ttae ifoaptee
du Port de Venasque^ the two unite in the Oirqu4 de I9 Glhrt^ from wfiieli
an easy aseent mouhts to the Ool d« la OMr« (7615 ft.) , an old ^port* or
pass into Aragon. The riew from thti col is somewhat limited, but from
the lae dt Gorgutei, lU min. below it on the Spanish slda, there is a vary
frwn, Luchon. PIC DE NlS'FttOU. //. Bouh 25. 173
wUle prospect.' — The He BMrena (9ffl6 fl.^ £^^* ^ f'* extra), to ttaA W.,
may be a8eeiide<f from the col in */4 hr. The Tiew inelodes the Monti
Maedite end the glaeiers of the Vall^ du Ljpb.
To Tins Pre db l'Ent^cadb, 4 hrs.j guide (not indispensable)
10, horse 6 fr. The route follows the road to Spain as far as the
Hospice (p< 172) and thence for % hr. more the bridle-path to the
PoTtde laPiquade. Then, turning once more to the left, we cross
the pastures to the ( Vt V^* ) Cahane de Pouylant, inhabited by
Spanish shepherds. Passing next the little Etanp de9 OarsM, we
reach (10 min.) a col affording a view of the Maladetta, and (!iOmln.)
another col whence we see the Aran valley. The summit of the Pie
de PEnMcade (7285 ft) is gained in 10 min. more. The view ie
magniflc«ttt, finer if possible on the Monts Maudits side than from
the Port de Y^nasque. It includes, moreover, the summits on this
side and extends westward as far as the Pic du Midi, the Yignemale,
and Mont Perdm; eastward over the Spanish summits beyond the
Aran; and northward to the plains of Gascony.
To THB Pic db Nibmou. This expedition, fit only for practised climb-
ers, is long and expensive, especially to the single traveller, but with
ordinary prudence it is without danger. The best season U between
July 30th and Sept. Ist, and it requires two days. If the Reucluse route be
token two guides are required, with ice-axes and ropes; but one guide
is sufficient for the ascent by the Malibieme valley. In the former case
riding is practicable as far as the (7 hrs.) Rencluse; In the latter case,
as far aa the (iOVs hrs.) Ribereta hut. Guides and horses, each 15 fr.
per day ; provisions must also be taken. The night is spent at the Spanish
mn beyond the Port de Venasque (p. It2) or at the Reneluse (poor accom-
odation, mattress S fr., for the guide 3 fr.), or in the Ribereta hut, unless
the traveller prefers to bivouac in the open air. — To the Port d« Vinatque,
8ec p. 172.
A. Via THE Bbbclusb. We follow the Port de la Piquade route as far as
tbe PtHa Blmmea JSprimg (p. 179), then «urn to the right to the (1 br.) Plan de*
BUuig», and, farther on, to the right sgain to (1 hr. ; 7 hrs. from Luchon)
the Re»au$e (6070 ft.). This hut Is situated at the foot of a rock near
the Qmtffre de Tmrmim^ where the BterA, the torrent fed by the Maladetta
glacier, becoines snhterranean, only to re-appear in the Venasque valley.
The torrent of the Ne'thou glacier also disappears at the Trou du Tor^y
Va hr. froBA the Reneluse route, near the top of the Plan des Etangs. *-
A very early start is made on the second day so as to ensure, if possible,
a clear view from the summit of the Kethou. We ascend in a 6. 8. B.
direction to (7^/f hrs.) the Poriition (9540 ft.) , between the MakuMta
6teder, on the right, and the If^ihttu OlaoUr ^ on the left. Then (using
Ae *ope> we ascend the last-named (St/s by 1 M.) from N.W. to S. E.,
ai far aa tlie (1 hr.) Lao OoronS (10^410 ft.) at the foot of the DOtne du
NHkoUy which we ascend, 'with difficulty, in Vs iir. The next part of
the ascent, the (Va hr.) P^nt d* Mahomety is the most trving point for
those who are subject to giddiness, as it is a ridge about W ft. long and
only 3 ft. wide, with an abyss on each side. This accomplished, we
are oaHhe Pie de Vdthou, or d*An€to (11,166 ft.), the highest summit of
the Pyrenees, and the centre of the Xoats Kavdite, a nearly isolated
groep of granite peaks, to the 8. of the prfaieipal range, in Spanish terri>
tory. The gronp has been compared to Mont Blane, but it is 4600 ft*,
lower. The other summits are, to the W., the MakuUtta (11,006 ft.), a
iiMie often giTen to the whole group, and also known as the Pie du
Hmm, the Pie (MHdtntal d* la Maladetta (10,865 ft.), and the He d'Aike
(10,7601k;). The range whiefa Unks this mass to the main chain on the X.
inchides the peaks of Leu SdUmques (9033 ft.), Lae Mouitteree (0860 ft.), four^
canade (Mtt ft.), Z4tt Bturtmeoiy and Poumdrc (8675 ft.). -^ The semmii of
iU 11. Rwte 2fi. : PI€ POSBTS*
tbe N6ibout ft plaUau af 75 ft. by 36 ft., ifl.fjvurcMmded by predpice* om all
sides, ex«ept tbe N., by wblcb tbe ascent is otftde. Tbe view is very ex-
tensive but is often obscured by mist and alway« indistinct on aeeoiuat «f
tbe elev«iiioD, Tbe peaks best seen are tliose mentioned, above, tbose on
tbe frontier to tbe N.W., tbe Pie Posets to tbe W., and tbe Pie Malibierne
(iO,4i76 ft.) and Pie Castanesa (9w5 ft.) to the 8. Tbere is a register on the
sammilin vrbiefa tbe traveller writer bis name, and be it also deeired to read
tbe tbermometers Axed tbere. — Tbe deseent may be made by tbe Col de
Coron^ (see below), and tbenee over the (3 brs.) Col d« Q«erv««j(a (9600 ft.)
to the (>/4 hr.) Lae de QuBrigueHa^ Cre^efia^ or Oregonio (8710 ft.), one of
tbe largest- in tbe Pyrenees (200aeres), and by the Oerfw de QiMH^tiefta
to tbe Bains de Vinwque^ 5 brs. from the summit. Tbe horses vbouid be
orjdered to meet the traveller here or at any rate at the Hospice de
V^asque. — The Pie de la Matadetta (I1/2 brs.) and tbe Pk d'Albe (Shrs.)
are also ascended, through- seldom, from the Betlclnife.
B. VH T*« MaiibibIKb VxuiBY (BaiMr de V^as^^. •*• FVem 'the Fmrt
de V4na*que(.u, 173) we descend to the right in 1 br. to the Hotpice de
Vinaeque (fiSw ft. ^ toll). Thence we follow the Ve'nasque (or Esera)
valley, crossing several torrents, one of which, the (1/2 h*"-)" **w»»*fi
forms a Ane waterfall. About 3 tars, from tbe Port, 3Dmin. to the left,
are the Baine de Vinaeque (moderate^ with wfirm sulphur springs similar
to those of Luchon. In 1/4 ^r, more, on tbe left, is tbe Gorge de Queri-
guena (see above), and in another Va l^'' we turn to the left from the
road to Vhioeque^ a small fortified town, IV4 l^r- farther on. We now
ascend the Malibierne Valley^ wooded at first and then pastoral, to OVs bre.)
tbe Ribereta Hut (6665 ft.), lOi/o hrs. from Luchon. — On the second day,
we follow the same track in the valley, first on the right and afterwards
on the left bank of the torrent, passing (IV4 br.) a fine waterfall. "We
then ascend to the left (N.), leaving on the left the toe It^frieur dTErioueil
and the Lac Olaci d^Brioueil and reach the (I/2 br.) Lae BupitHeur d'Erioueil
(90)0 ft.), which is also frozen. Thence we command a grand view of the
Olacier de Coron4 and of the massive Jprecipiees of Nethou and Xaladetta.
We ascend for some time to the W. of the glacier and then cross it (no
crevasses) to the (IV4 hr.) Col de Coroni (10,475 ft.) , where we join the
route described above.
To TUB Ptc PoawTft, a toilsome but anhasftrdoue expedition, eeldaaa
naade. It takes % days, the nights being spent at tbe Tnrmo but fto
which riding is practicable), or a^ the Astoa but. CKiides and horeee,
each 15 fr. per day. We follow the route last desoribed, - up the V^«
nasque valley, and beyond tiie divergence of the Malibienie valley, to
tbe (TVs lirs.) Pont de Cuberre^ U/^ U. on this side of V^aaMne (see above).
Grossing the bridge^ we aacend to tbe N.W. in the AtUte FoUiy, with ita^e
waterfalls, to the (IVt ht.).Turnic Hut (5510 ft.) and the (U/s^r. more)
Aetoe Hut (5900 ft.). At least «■ hour may be saved by leaving the V^-
nasque voad opposite theJBathe and proceeding to tbe W. into the Val de
Literola or Litayrolles and so direct into the Astos valley, below the Turaao
but. — Tbe but lies 51/s hrs. below the summit. We tura first te the
S. and ttien to tbe S.W., mounting a sneeesslen of rocky terraces te the
glacier, which is gained in 3 hrs., at tbe Cot de Paoml or FaOl (about
9510 ft.). Crossing tbe glacier, which is free from danger, we reach (about
1 hr.) a sheer roeky wall, tbe sealing of which (90 min.) is tbe chief dif-
ficulty in the expedition. Tbe Fie PeseU or des P^eeU (11,0*5 ft.), alao
called Pic de LardaiM , the seeond summit in the Pyrenees ; forms, like
the Nethou, its neigbhttut .en the JS., the centre of a nearly isolated maas.
It commands a finer view because it is moM central: to tbe W., Moat
Perdu, tbe Vignemale, and the peaks of Balaitous, Oer, 0ablsos, aad
Midi d'Oosau; to the K.W., the Neouvieile and tbe Pie du Midi de iU-
gorre^ to the M. tbe peaks of Glarabide, Oourgs-Blancs, Port dH)d, Per-
dighero, and Sauvegarde; to tbe B., the Monts Maudltt: and to the 9.,
the Pic d^firist^. — Tbe return may be made on foot via the Pert d'06
(p. 168), 31/9 brs. from the Astes hut^ there Is no path and tbe deseent
to tbe I«ac d^Od is fatiguing, but the tiew to the V. Is very ftne.
il5f
M. From BoiuteiM. (Totdooie •r Tsrbes) to Aulas
▼id 6t Oirona.
41 M. Railway to <20V3 M.) Si. ^Hnrxmy in 4-11/4 hr. (fares 3 fr. 70, 2 fr. 80,
1 fir. 66 e.). Diliobik» in the sesaon from St^ Girooa to. C^Vs M.) AiOm
in 3l»».; fuve d£v.^ aaotber pvbtte eoayeyAiiee abeaport finMriage*^ to
bold 4 pers., 25 fr. ; the hotels alpo send earriftges to meeti the leaiaa. A
'eoarrier* also leaves ^t, Girpne at 4 a. n. and at 1 p. m.
Boussens, see p. 129. — Our line cro5sef» the Garonne, and «s-
eendfi the Salat valley. 3^'»M. Ma»ere$-'9ur-S€Uat
6 M. SaUe9*iJhi-S(tlat {Kdt. Feuillerat), a small town dominated
by the ruins of a castle (13 '14th cent.) and possessing soia9 un-
imp«rtent saline and sulphur springs. — 8 M. HU- Man^^TouUle
is the station for three villages. — 10 M. Ca$i«gnedt] 13 M. Ptat-
tt'Bonrepavjc; 16 M. Caumont, Th© valley contracts.
19V, JJf. ^^' W«i«r, a decayed little town of 1376 inhab., pictur-
esquely situated on a hlU to the left, is the ancient Laigdunum Con^
Boranerum an<i was formerly the chief town of the Couserans. It
still retains a large part of its Roman Wall$f with twelve tov^ers. The
Church of St. Lizier (12- 14th cent.) has a cloister of the 12 -13th
centuries. — About' IV4M. to the E. (omnibus) is Audinac, a
hamlet with baths supplied by two considerable mineral springs^
20V« M.St. Girons (1350 ft.; Uotel de» Princes; de France;
feytoujt.'&n iuidustrial town of 5915 inhab., at the confluence of the
Salat, tne Lez, and the Baup, is a convenient starting-point for
some interesting excursions among the Pyrenees.
Fbom St. Girons to Senteik , 15Va V-j carriage - road up the Lez
valley, to the 8."\V. — At (21/2 M.) Aubert xhere is a fine bowe - cavern,
with stalaetites. 3 M. Mottlis has a ruined castle. 8 M. CtutUlofi (inn).
10 H. let Bordes^ at the openi^j; of the flue valley of (3 M.) BethmaUy
the inhabitants of which retain their', peculiar costume. — In the next
Talley, the VaUit de Biros, one of the finest in the district, there are zinc
aod lead mined. ^ iSVa H. tantefn (2490 ft. ; ii»n) eontaini a fortified ehurch
of the Uth cejitury. — About 4 bra. ty the S. i* the Port dTVreU. <8356 ft.),
leading into the Aran valley in Spain, and commanded by the Pic de
Minbermi (M80 ft.), the highest summit in this part of the 'Pyrenees.
Froh'-6t. Giaons to Foiat, 38l/s M. , diligence (railway projected),
^icB daily 6^ a;, m.^ and nocm) in about 4 hra, (Canei 4 or i fr.>. The roa4
leads ta t^e M-> via the.Ba»p valley^ a^d fqrks at (6^/4 M.) Lcscure^ one
feranch leading to (281/2 *) /*«»*»'«»•« (p. ITT). About 11 M. from Lescure
and 11/4 M. short of the little town of Mhs-d'Atit (H6t. G^rdel s Savignae)
is a gorgis eoaftaining th« bold B^«k# 4n Mfuti pierced by a large natural
tunnel tjbrough wU^ mv thi& v^^qx Arize and the road. Thjis tunnel is
V4 M. looe and .260 ft. high by 180 ft. wide at the . ftntsance. ^ Quitting
the Baup valley, the road proceeds via (121/9 M.) C(u|€2fMm-Z>t«riia«» (inn), the
little town of (UVd M.) la B^ttide de S&ou (JMov d'Or), and (21 M.) C<td^
are«< (inn), aud enters the valley of the Ari^ge. — flSi/t ^- ^*>*^t see p. 178.
The BoAD TO AuLtrs (Coufleiis) ascends the valley of the Salat,
which gradually narrows and forms a defile. — 3V4M* Lacourt,
with the remains of a 14th cent, ke^ and of a castle (16th cent.)*
The goT^ now passes between li^ooded heights. — 7Vj M. Pont
de Ket^amic, at the confluence of the Salat and Arac.
176 //. Rtmte 26. AULUS.
(phe BoAl> T« TlkRAck!oii438lfj)t 4lfoiiit«nQ«UnBi» «to8Mf Ihr biMge
and ascends the valley of the Arae. — 91/4 M . XaMat (3190 ft. ; BM. LaphM\
a decayed town of 3540 inhaft.^'««itb' boiife-e»vdm« in the vieinity. — 30 M.
Le Fori (4100 ft. \ ane view) , the col between the Tuc de VHovme-Mort
(5480 fl.), on the left^ and the Pic d*Af««( (9475 ft.), on the right. - 33l/t II .
Smitrat^ with 9033 inhab., whene« a publle convcyaaee pliea to Taraseoii.
— 35M. BMaillM, with a ruined OMfU and two iiilere«tt»K alalaetite
caverns (p. 179). -*• 36 H. Tarmmonj tee p. 178.
The road now turns to the S. and traverses a short tunnel. —
8 M. 5^ Semin, — 9 M. Saueix.
The Road to Couflbms (St/^ M.) diverges to the right Arom the Aulns
road a little farther on and eoptinues to AUend the SaLai vaUey. About
31/9 M. from Soueix is Baiz (Bdt. Brouuet)^ an ancient town of SOOOinhab.,
with BatJu and marble Quarries. On a hill above it (3906 h.) are the mins
of the OMHQu de Mlram. - From (3 M. farther on) Cot^Mw^-Btim^ou
the ascent of the Montvalier, to the W., may he made in I'li/^hii.
(with guide from Seix). The route leads up the JB$tourt valley to the
(4 hrs.) Cabanes cTiluta, where the night may be spent, and thence ria the
(31/2 hrs.) Col d€ Pepreblanque^ |knd by, a 4ip .where, we hare to pats
below a rock, the only point of any difficulty. The' Pie de XentvaUsr
(9314 ft.) is a nearly isolated eone commanding a wide brospeet, extend-
ing from the Monts Haudits to the Honitealm. — The road beyoBil
Ck)uflens-de-Betmajou traverses a gorge, dominated h7 the ruined Ckiieau
de la Oarde , and ends at (8S/4 H.) Cot^fient^ an unimportaQt place.
The valley again expands. The Aulus road crosses the SsUt
and ascends the valley of the Garbet, to the right of whicl) rises
the Montvalier (see ahove), — 10 M. Tic, with an interesting Ro-
manesque church. — 107s M. Oust is a place of early origin
('Augusta') , with remains of its ancient walls. — 15Vt M. Erte,
with 2673 inhabitants.
20V2 ^* Aulni. — Hotels. HoTBLS A Casino du Parc, Gband-Hotbl^
near the Bath Establishment, of (he first class; db Fravcx, Gboioi<.
Grouzat, BEAU-Si^oDB, DBS Bains, in the new qvartfer^ du Xidi, in the
village, pens. 8 fr.j PB Paris, pens. 6-71/9 fr. — Fdrxishbd Apabthrhts
easily procured {Calvei^ etc.). — Bath EetabUahmeat. Buvette, 10 fr. fur
3 week9 \ Laths and douches, lVs-3 fr.
At^us (2500 ft) is a well -situated- village ou the Garbet, iii«
little valley enclosed by mountains covered with pastures vkI
woods. Its warm mineral Springs (sulphate of lime and iron) ut
strongly charged with soda and magnesia, and are actively purgative
and dluFetie. They haTe long been used for a apeotal treatment of
serious cases of syphilis. The Rath EstablishmeAt, on thei left hank
of the river, is Adjoined by a CaHno.
ExouBBiovs. — To the XettlbteB (6SIO ft.), the moUntaia overiookittf
the Tttlley en the IT., an easy climb of 3 hrs. The view is llae and ex-
tends to' the plahis of Toulouse. HalfWay up. from the BetirMie (4806 ft.),
there is also a good view of the valley and of a large number of the
mountain-peaks on the fronNer. — To tin €ascadb d*Absb, a delightfbl
walk of 11/3-3 hrs., up (be valley^ of the Oarbet and the Arte, Hie lattrr
of which begins about ll/a M. to the S.£. of Aulws. We foUow the left
bank of the torrent, traversing a defile known as the Trou d*ti^er. The
*ClaMade A'Aym is one of the largest and finest In the ^reneet. The
total height of the fall is about 360 ft, divided into Ibree lcap■^of whieh
the second haff a breadth of more than 160 ft^ -*■ To tab Lao D9 Qabbbt,
3 hrs. The road ascends the stream to the huts of Castel -Jikiim' , wherr
we turn to the 8., still (bllowfng the beautiful valtey of the Garbet,
I^AKIERS. //. noute 27. 177
vhf«h aUo forms a fine waterfall. The Lae de Qarbet (5480 ft.) is of eon-
liderable size, and is sarrounded by pastures. Hot fkr from it is another
ud smaltor laka. — T* Vicdisbos^ lilVt M., carriage-road via Oastcl-Jftmer
(tee p. 176). and fchenee over the (2i/s hrs.) Port de SaUix (5010 ft.) and
Tia (IV4 hr.) SaUix (3390 ft.), whenee there is a pretty view. Vicd«*»o^y
lee p. ^9.
27. From Toitlduse to iFoix, Tturaseon, Ussat, and Ax.
77 K. RAII.WAT all the way. To (51 Va M.) Fmx in 1 Vs-3*/4 hrs. (fares
9 fr. 30, 6 ir. 95, 4 fir. 10 e.). — To (61 M.) Tarauou in 3-3i/, hrs.
(fares 11 fr. 10, 7 fr. 40, 4 fir. 86 c). - To (63 M.) Uuai in 31/4-31/8 hrs. (fares
11 fr. 50, 7fr. 70, 6 fr. 5 e.). — To (77 M.) Ax in 3S/4-41/4 hrs. (fares
14 fr., 9fr. 35, 6&. 10 e.).
TofiUoiiBtf see p. 73. — The train leaves the Qart Matahiau
and follows the Tarbes line as far as (7*/t M.) Portet-St-Simon
(p. 129). — Beyond (8VtM.) Pintaguel we turn to the S. , cross
the Garonne, and ascend the valley of the ArUge^ soon crossing the
Leze and passing several small stations. — 25 M. CiniegciMU
(2346 inh&b.) has an interesting church with a 16tb cent, spire.
30 M. SaverdwA, to the right, an old town of 3286 inhab. , and
one of the chief places in the county of Foix during the middle
ages, was the birthplace of Benedict XII. , tlie third of the Avig-
non pop«s (1334-1342).
We cross the Ariege. ^ 35 M. Le Vernet-d' Ariege.
40 M. Pamiert {Grand 80MI, Rue des Nobles; Catala, Rue
Major, B. 2, B. V^, d^j. 2Vt, D. 3 fr.), an industrial town of 10,657
iohab., on the Ariege, and the seat of a bishopric. The iron of the
Painiers foundries enjoys a high repute.
The town sprang up around an abbey and castle of the 12th eent.,
which no longer exist. Its founder, Boger. II. of Foix, named it after
the Syrian city Apamea as a memorial of the First Crusade. It often
suffered from the ehronie rivalry between the Counts of Foix, the abbots,
the bishaps , and the townsfolk. In 155S it wais ravaged by the plague ;
aad in 1638, having become Protestant, it wa« taken and sacked by Cond^
(Henri II of France). The abbey had already (1688) been destroyed, like
many others, by the 'Casaques Koires* of the Sire d*Audon.
The partly -modern R<»nane9que church of Notre- Dame 'dU'
Oamp has a fortified brick facade of the 14th ceiitury. The church
of Notre- Dame-des- Cordeliers, farther to the N.E., has a curious
small ruined tower. — The Rue des Kobles leads by a small vaulted
passage to the Cathedral, also largely rebuilt in the 19th century.
It has a Transition poHal, concealed'by a modern brick towei- in the
Tolosan style , and other portions are in the Graeco-Roman style 61*
the 17th century. Tlie interior is decorated with modern mural
paintings by B^nezet and Baduel. — The ascent in front of the cathe-
dral leads up to the CasMlnt, a promenade on tAke site k)f the old
castle, with a line view.
FaoM Pamuks to Loiou^t, 40 ![.,» railway in 3V4-3^/s hrs. (Ikres 7 fr. 80,
4 fr. 90, 3 fir. 90 c). — I51/3 M. JOrepoiz (B6t. Bigaud), with 36Q0 inM.,
^ta an .interesting CkUhedr'al (St. Uduriee% dating mainly from the loth
Baedeker. Southern France. 4th Edit. 12
178 //. Route 27. TAEA^CpN. From Toulou$e
eentury. Diligenee to Lapelanei (11 M. ; see below). — 39 M . BeUtitt-Aud*^
junction for Brum (p. 99!). — 4DM. timoux (p. 183).
43 M. Vemiolle ; 46 M. Varilhts. The valley now oontraeto and
the line recrosses the Ariege. — Beyond (48V2 Ml.) St. Jean- de-
Verges the scenery improves. To the right is a handsome modern
chateau. The Ariege is again crossed.
51 V2 M. Foix {Hot. Bousse; Lacoste), with 6722 inhab., the un-
important chief town of the /dfpaitniAiit iol the 4f*H0^i is Adinirahly
situated at the confluence of the Ariege and the Arget.
During the middle ages FoU was tlie capital of'the Counts of Foix,
one of whom, Raymond (1188-1333), sueeessfiilly resisted Simon de Mont-
fortes attack upon his eastle during the Albigensian crusade. The Ciount-
ship of Foix passed in 1329 under the suzerainty of the Kings of France ;
but nevertheless, owing to the differences between Roger Bernard III. and
Philip the Bold, it was invaded in 1373 by the latter, who only became
master of the eastle on its becoming evident that he was determined to
blow up the rock on which it stood. The territory was afterwards united
to B^arn and annexed to France under Henri IV.
The Castle, or rather what is left of it, i^resents a very pictur-
esque appearance from a distance. It stands on a rock, 180 ft. high,
on the N.W. of the town, and still retains two square towers, of
different sizes, dating in part from the 12th cent., and one round
tower, 136 ft* high, forming an interesting specimen of 14th cent,
architecture. To enter the castle (gratiiity) we skirt the rock to the
right. In the lowest and oldest of the towers, originally the keep,
are a chamber once used by the Inquisition and some of its dun-
geons. The main tower affords a fine view.
At the foot of the rock is St. VolttUen , the principal church,
dating from the 12th cent., but with some .older work. It has been
restored in recent years, and contains some fine altars and modern
paintings. — In 1882 a Statue of LakaneU, a member of the National
Convention of 1792, by Picault, was erected in the Promenade
Villote, on the other side of the town.
About 51/2 M. to the E., near the village of Herm, is tke large OrttH
d0 VBerm^ a bone-eaTern, interesting to geologists; there are also other
eaves (see p. 179). — Road from Foix to St. O&mu^ see p. 175.
From Foix to Quillam, 381/2 M., diligence (5 fir.). The road traverses
a hilly and well-wooded region vi& (17 H.) LateUmet {Mi. du Pare; d'Es-
pagne), a oloth-making town with 3179 inhab., and (21 M.) M^U^m (Hot dr
France), another industrial town. — 381/2 H. QuiUan^ see p. 193.
The railway now passes under the bridge of Foix and ascends
the right hank of the Ariege. The best views are to the right. - -
55 M. St-PaiU- St-Antoine. fieyond a tunnel we command a view
of the gorge of the Ariege, spanned by an ancient fortified bridge.
Lofty and barren mountains now appear. — A little beyond (68 M.)
Mercus the Ariege is crossed.
61 M. TaraMon (Hotel Franoal; Amaud), a small thottgk ver)-
ancient industrial town (1432 inhab.), at the oonflueneeof tka Ariege
and the Orlege. Tarascon*le-Vieuz, to the left of the road, is built
round a picturesque roek, surmotinted t>y ii Tower, now the only relic
to Ax. USSAT-LE18-BAINS. I J. Route 27. 179
of a castle destroyed in the 17tli century. The iron-furntees and
foundries of Tarascon are well-known.
About 3 X. to the X.W., on the St. Girons road, is BideittaCy where there
are some interesting eaves (see p. 176). Similar caves abound in the lime-
stone moantalni of tbis district, among others iht OrotUduPo^mehtt^ in the
M&mtagn^ <h adbort^ a shovt distanee from Taraaeon, beyond the con-
fluence of the Ariege and the Orieee-, besides those mentioned below, the
cavern at the Boche de Has (p. *i75), etc.
PsoM Tarascov to Vicdbssos (Monfeaim and Fte ttEtUix)^ 8i/a M.;
diUceB«e from the station, 1 fr. The road leads to the 6., up the narrow
valley of the Ori^ge, or of Viedessos, which is flanked by bare mouoktaini.
— 21/2 If. Ifiauxy with the celebrated stalactite Grotte de la Calbiire^ in which
are two small lakes. — Sl/j M. Capoulei^ near the ruined ChAttau de MigloM.
— 81/8 M. ViedaMaa (H^. Anhn* Jtoutaud)^ a village to the 8.S. •/ which
is the UoHiagne de RaneU^ with the richest iron-mines in France. The
ore yields 70 per cent of excellent iron. Visitors to the mines proceed
to the village of Sem^ about 2 H. from Vicdesaos> and thence ascend in
about 1 br. — From Vicdessos to ^«I»s, see p. 177.
Vicdessos is the point whence the Montcalm and the Pie d*Estax are
ascende4 in about 7S/4 hrs. to the first summit, 8^/3 hrs. to the second (guide
neeeaaary). Part of the aaeent may be Bu4e on horseback. We con-
tinue to ascend the Ori^e valley , via (1/4 hr.) Auxai and the (S/4 hr.)
large and fine C€ueade de Bauih (on the right) , to (1 hr.) Marc. There
we enter the lateral valley on the right, making direct towards the
Montcalm, aa<l aseend steeply via the <3 hrs.) Cmbanet de Pigeei (6560 ft.) to
the (Vs hr.) Cabanet de Sukra (6965 ft.), beyond which the horses cannot pro-
ceed. Thence a climb of 2 hrs., toilsome at first , brings us to the cr^st
(9835 ft.) between the valleys of Subra and Rioufred ; and in V4 br. more
we reach the top of the Xentealm (10,103 ft.) « which repays us with a
glorious view, extending W. to the snowy peaks beyond Luobon and £.
to the Canigou. On the S. the view is partly blocked by the Pio dISstax
or Piqme dTEHali (10,800 fk.), the summit of which may be gained in s/4 hr.
fron the Hontealm.
63 M. Vuat-lef Bairns. — Hotels. OBAMn-HdnL dm Bams wr dv
Pakc, OB the right bank, near the chief Baths i Oa. HSt. CHAVMOiib, farther
to the right, R. 3, B. Vs> ^i- ^y i>- 3y2i pens. Sfr.^ Gassagkb Fils,
MmrviLLB, beyond the Establishment-, Hot. db Fhakcb, Bosc, db la
Rbvaissavcb, on the left bank, nearer the station. — FuntiUhed Apart-
Btente, — Jatha, 70 c.-U/a fr.} douches, flOc- 1 fr. — Small Gaaiiic beside
the Hotel des Bains, and dtfi close by. — Ttlegrofh Office in the season.
Ussat- Us -Bains (1590 ft.), which takes its name from Usaat^
U-Vieux, the neighbouring village on the right bank of the Ariege,
is a h»miet widely known on account of its abundant thermal
springs (bicarbonate of lime), supplied by a subterranean lake situ-
ated below the rocks which border the valley. These waters,
vhich are almost solely used for baths and douches , are extremely
soothing and efficacious in certain female and nervous complaints.
Their temperature varies from 103** to 89.6** Fahr. , according to the
distance of the bathing - places from the outflow. The principal
Etablissement Thermal is situated on the left bank of the Ariege,
beyond a small park. The Thermes Ste, Qermaine and the Bains
St. Vinc^n^. (closed for several years) are on the right bank. Bathing
season from July 1st to Sept. 30th.
About IVt ^' fr^n Ussat is the Orstts da Lambrivs, one of the most
interesting caverns in the district, the mouth of which may be seen on
the hill on the left bank, opposite the station. Intending visitors apply
*t the groandfloor of the lodging-bouse Pujo ; adm. 5 ftr. each , bMiaiB
12*
180 IL Route 27. AX. Prom To^Uam
fbr a party. The flaveni eontaiBS statoctttM, bone'depoaits, and a amaW
pool, and it may be followed' for nearly 3 H, into tbe heart of the moun-
tain. Several Albigenses who had taken refuge in t^a cavern were buried
alive by the troops of the Inquisition, who built up the entrance.
The valley now expands a little. At (67 Ve M.) Les Cdbannci
(1745 ft. 'j Hdt. Descamps; Faure) is a ehateaa on a hill to the right,
and at the head of a little valley rises the Pic de Riex (8495 ft.).
We cross a bridge, traverse a short tunnel, and again cross a bridge*
To the left are the Pic St. Barth^lemy (p. 181) , and , on a cliff, the
picturesque ruins of the Chateau de Lordat, which was in iBxistence
as early as the 10th century. — 71Vf M. Lutenac-Qaranou,
77 M. Az. — Hotala. Botbb, Rue de la Gare, B. U/r^, d^j. 31/2,
D. 3, pens. 7 fr. ; Sicrb, at the Breilh Establishment, pens. 8 fr. ; Trbssbiks,
^Isplanade du Gouloubret, pens, from 7 fr. ^ db Bobdbacx, in the town (6-
7 fr.). — Numerous fumUned ApartmenU. — Cafis^ Plaee du Couloubret.
— Balhs^ 80 e.-l fr. 25 c. ; douches , 40 c.-l fr. 26 e. Glass of the water, 5 e.
Ax'le»-Thwmes (2350 ft), an ancient town with 1545 inhah., is
well situated at the confluence of three streams. The warm sulphur
springs, for which it is noted, were known to the Romans, as is in-
dicated hy the name of the town , derived from Aquae, Ax has im)
fewer than 61 springs, which vary in temperature (63'*-171*' Fahr.),
mineral constituents, and medicinal uses, like those of Luchon and
Cauterets. The opening of the railway and the quietness of the place,
as compared with the fashionable life at other spas , have largely
contributed tO the prosperity of Ax. The waters are used both for
drinking and for bathing, and are specially efftca<»ou8 in rheuma-
tism, skin diseases, scrofula, and catarrhs; while they are also used
for domestic purposes. The springs are sa numerous And so* thickly
strewn that it has been conjectured that the town is built above a
natural reservoir of thermal mineral water.
There are four bath-establishments in the town , each fed by a
different group of springs; vit. the Couiouhret, to the left, at the
end of the square of the same name , reached directly vii the street
ascending from the station ; the Etcibliasement Thermal ModllCf on
the bank of the stream skirting the right side of the same square;
the Breilh, a little farther on, in the shady court of the H6tel Sicre,
in the Place du Breilh ; and the Teich, on the other side of the town,
reached by the Rue du Goustou. Behind the Teich is a pretty park,
and higher up are the ruins of a castle , on which a statue of the
Virgin has been erected. — The Hospital, in the Place du Breilh,
was founded for leprous soldiers by 8t. Louis in 1260. The neigh-
bouring Church is dedicated to St. Udant, ^conqueror of Attila and
martyred at Ax in 452'. — The temperature of Ax is very variable,
and the evenings are generally cool.
Xxenraiona. — To the Pie Baauet or Tuto d* VOurt (7410 ft.). 41/4 hrs.,
easy and interesting. We ascend by the bridge above the Etabliaaement
Module to the (ii/4 kr.) platoau of the RtnUu de Bamatcre <4I96 ft.), which
may aUo be reaohed by the PotU 4'E»pagM (V4H. farther up) and tho three
hamleta otB^twft. Thenoe vii the (1 hr.) foraitor*s lodge at the ^ms*
40 MaiueiU* (6480 ft.), to the (9 hrs.) top, whieh eommaadi a apleAdld view.
to Ax. PUT DE CARLITTE. TL BmUe ^7, 181
The Pic St. BAiTniLSMT mfty be Mcended In fthoiit 51/3 hn. (with
guide) from the ■mall village of Ltutur (to which we may drire), about
s/4 M. beyond the station of Lnsenae (p. 160). The exeursion is in-
teresting and easy. We cross the Ari^ge at Lassnr and aseend to the
V.E., Tia (1 hr.) Lordai (p. 180), to the (3 hrs.) C*l de Im Ptffte
(5680 ft.), which, however, we do not cross, but bear to the W. and pass
to the left of the (>/4 hr.) Lae Tort. Then, skirting the Pie d« Soulmrae
(7686 ft.) , we descend to (Vi br.) a little eol , and finally ascend once
more to the (I/2 br.) summit of the Pie St. Baith4lMiy (7705 ft.) , which
Affords a famous view, from tha Pic du Midi to the (3anigou and from the
mountains of Andorra to the plains of Toulouse.
To QuiLLA» (p. 183), to the N.E. , an easy and interesting excursion
iieenpying one day. The route leads via the (3 hrs.) Col 4*Bl Pradol
(about SlOOft.) and the VaOdt dm Rt^fontt, in which the scenery is re-
marliably picturesque as far as Joueau^ about 4 hrs. from the col.
The ascent of the Puy de Oarlitte (9580 ft. •, with guide), to the S.E.,
may be made via the Lac Iamoux (see below) in 2 days from Ax (1 day
from L^Hospitalet) ; but it is more conveniently undertaken from Les Es-
ealdas (9 hrs. from A< ; aee p. IW).
To Pdtcekda avd Bouro-Madakb (Le» EMcaldas)^ 34 M. , two public
vehicles daily (at 5a. m. and tOa. m.) 4n about 10 hrs.; fare 5-6 fr. The
road leaves the valley of the Ori^ge to the left, and ascends to the 8.
in tbe narrow and rocky vallejr of the Ariege. — 5 M. U^rens (3640 ft.;
hotel), with little -used warm springs (93* to 154" Fahr.; snlpbur). —
81/3M. tSaOloiu^ with a cold sulphureous spring. About l/s M. farther
on we pass a bridge and a waterfall.
iOi/s M. L'Hospitalet (4630 ft.; Soul4) lies at the point of divergence
of the Andorra road (see below). — To make the ascent of tbe fvy d«
CorUUe (see above) we return towards Ax as far as the bridge near Saiilens
sod then ascend to the £. to the (81/2 hrs.) Col de BMnt* (7710 ft.), on the
N.E. of the Pies Pidroux (9390 ft.). From the col we descend in about 1 hr-
to the Lac Lanoux (7065 ft. ; hut), the largest lake in tbe Pvrenees (about 907
acres), and thence reach the summit of the mountain (p. 190) in 31/3 hrs.
Beyond L*Hospita)et the road proceeds in windings, at one place
making a detour of 31/q H. , which pedestrians may avoid .by means of
a well-marked path. — 161 /j M. Col de Puytnorens (6M0 ft.). — I9i/aM. Porti
(5335 ft.) ia another starting-point for the ascent of the Puy de Carlitte
(1 day) vii the Lac Lanoux. To the risht, farther on, are the defile and
tower of (krdane, — 331/2 M. Porta (4950 ft. ; inn), from which the Pic de
Campcardos (9560 ft. ; fine view) may be ascended in 41/2 brs. (7 hrs. there
sod back). We soon perceive the two Tours de Carol or Queroh ^ 8ai/a M.
CourbasUl. — Beyond the (3T1/2 M.) village of La Tour-de-Carol (4070 ft. ;
P<legry3, a road diverges to the right to Puycerda (p. 190), and beyond
(30 M.) Bnveigi and (SQ M.) Ur a road leads to the left to Let Escaldas
(21/2 M. ; p. 190). — 34 M. Bourg-Madame (p. 190).
To Amdosra vii the Port de 8aldeu, 37 M., the shortest and easiest
route. Carriages can go as far as (4 hrs.) L'Hospitalet, where it is well
to sleep, and the rpad is practicable for horses for the rest of the way
(8 hrs. more). A guide, not necessary In fine weather, may be useful
M an interpreter. The charge is 10 fr. a day for horse and man from
L'Hospitalet, in addition to food, for both. — To (IO1/2 M.) VHotpUdlet,
see above. The Andorra road continues to ascend the Ariege valley for some
time , and in less than 1/2 hr. crosses the Palawnero on the frontier and
turns to the W., where it is indicated by a kind of landmarks. After
1 hr. more a path via tbe Port de Framiquel (8070 ft.) , also leading to
Andorra but 1 hr. longer, diverges to the left from our route. About
3 hrs. beyond we gain the Port de Sdldeu (8389 ft.) , which affords Only a
limited and monotonous view , and we then descend via (1 hr. 30 min.)
Baldeu (inn), OanUlo (1 hr. 30 min.), the MiriUeU Chapel (a resort of pil-
grims), a (1 hr.) deAie commanded by the remains of a fort, and (I/3 hr.)
Let Eieetldat., with warm sulphur springs, situated in a valley planted
with oUvea and tobacco. Thence Andorra is reached in i/s hr. more.
182 li. Route 26, ALrET. From CarcoMonne
AnA^rra (8510 ft. ; Catouni*, tolerable ; MoUs), a TJlUge of 700^00 inhab.,
is of importance only as the chief place of the little republic of that name.
It is well situated at the foot of the Anclar and aboye a small and fertile
plain, but it is ill-built and, beyond the primitive manners of its in-
habitants and the oi^anization of its petty gOTemmentt the only object
of interest is the modest FaUiis^ with three irregular windows an the
facade, and a tower pierced with loopholes. The meetings of the Conseil
General are held in this building, and the members and their steeds are
lodged in it. It also servet m the Palais de Justice, the Hdtel de Ville,
the school, and the gaol. The Goundl Chamber, an unadorned Apartment,
surrounded with oak benches, and the kitchen, with a huge fireplace,
should be visited.
A rough road leads from Andorra to (16 M.) See de Off el (3364 ft. ; Bdt.
LleltreUt)^ a quaint old Spanish town (dOOO inhab.) with an Interesting Oalh-
edral of the 11th century. See Bmedeker''s Spmin and P&rtugal.
28. From Carcassonne to Qnillan.
Upper Valley of the Ande. Valley of the Bebeaty.
34 Ji. Railway in 2 hrs. (fares 6 fr. 16, 4 fr. 15, 2 fr. 70 c). The line is
being continued towards Rivesaltes (p. 184).
Careaaaonne, eee p. 99. The line ascends the valley of the Aade
and crosses the river between (4V2 M.) Madame and (6*/tM.) Couf-
foulens-Leuc, From (8M.) Verzeille a diligence (Va fi"*) pli** *®
(3 M.) St. Hilairey where there are the remains of a famous abbey,
^th a church of the 13th cent, containing the tomb of St. Hilary,
with bas-reliefs of the 11th century. — Beyond (lOVe M.) Pomaa
we cross the Aude for the second time and beyond (13 M.) C^pie
for the third time. Before the laet bridge the church of Notre-
pame-de-MarcefUe comes into view on the left.
16 Vi M. Iiimoux (Hot. du Commerce), an industrial town with
6684 inhab., on the Aude, is surrounded by vine-clad hills, which
produce a white wine of good quality, known as ^blanquette'. — A
little to the N. is Notre'Dame'^e^MareeiUe, a pilgrim-resort of coo-
siderable local repute, with a black marble statue of the Virgin and
a fine altar-screen. Fine view of the valley and the mountains.
From Limoux to Bel»kte^ Mirtpoix^ and Pamitrif see p. 177.
22 M. Altt{^tablis$ement Thermal, moderate), a email and an-
cient town, called Eletca by the Romans, who made use of its min-
eral waters. Its Cathedral, founded in 873 and rebuilt in 1018, is
now in ruins, but the pentagonal apse, the most interesting part,
is standing. This is adorned on the outside by four large columns
in the Corinthian style and an elaborate cornice. — The Etahliue-
tnemt Thermal possesses two warm springs (biearbonate of lime,
aperient; 68* and 82** Fahr.) and a cold chalybeate spring.
Two more tunnels are passed. — 27 M. Couiza- Montateli.
From Couisa-Montasels a diligence (IV4 fr.) plies daily in summer
to the Tillage of Baaaee-lee-Baim (Qrattd-Hdiel; Hit. dt la Btint)^ 6Vs >•
to the 8.K., with Are mineral springs (Chalybeate and saline), known tu
the Somans. There ai« three bath-establishments , the Bain Ffi^ Brnn
d4 la iUiM^ and Bain J^ousc. The environs are interesting. Rennes it the
to QuUlan, QUILLAN. //. SotUe 2«. 183
starting-point for the ascent of the ^ecH de Bugttraeh (lOAO ft. 4 hrs. : ex-
teiuiYe view), via (iVs K«) Mg«rwik.
28 M. Esperata. — SO'/i M. Campagne-aur-Aude poeseases a
bath-establishment with two mineral springs (76** and 82^ Fabr.).
84 M. QniUan (Hot. des Pyrenees; VerdUr), an industrial
town of 2626 inhab., on the Aude, with the ruins of a castle, is the
centre of an important forest-district. A statue pf the Abbe' Ar^
mand commemorates his services in procuring the. construction of
the road in tbe upper Aude valley. About V4 ^* ^ ^^ ^* ^^^ ^^^
baths of Oinoles, with three springs.
An interesting excursion , 7 hrs. there and back (carriage-road), may
be iMkde to th« S.E. to the ftne WthcHt des Fanf«t (firs ; flOO acres). —
From Quillan to Fois, s«e p. ITS,
Fbom Quiluak to Gviscrk)iiikEM-JB»cooiK>UBUi, 9311., diligence daily
(fare 4 fr.) in connection with the first morning train. A ^courrier* in
connection with -the second train plies to Axat, catching the diligence
thenee to CiaManieree. A railway is under eo^struetion. — The pictur-
esque Valley 4I tbe Ande increases in beauty : as we aaemid. Beyond
(31/3 M .) Btlvianesy where the railway crosses to the right bank, tbe road
enters tbe *Piem-Lf» DeJUe , nearly n/2 H. long , and flanked by sheer
rocks, some bundreds of feet in height. For moi« than 900 yards the
road is carried through a tunnel, known as tbe Trou dn Cm'4. Tlie rail-
way traverses numerous tunnels and reerosses the stream. 5 H. SI. Martin-
£lM, on tbe right bank, at the end of the defile. The picturesque valley
of tbe Rebenty (see below) is I1/4 M . to fbe right of St. HaHin. — 71/3 M.
Azat (1345 ft. ; B6t. Labat) will be a station on the new railway. Henoe to
Ax, see below. — "We next reach the •fi*. Oeorget DeJUe^ another fine part
of the valley. At (ISM.) Gase there are an inn and a fish-breeding estab-
lishment. The valley now forms a rapid succession of defiles shut in
by wooded heighls. Near its end , on a ro4ky sf ur. We see the ruined
ChdUau d'Vston. — flQi/jM. Bains d" tfston^ a small watering-place. — 33 M.
laine 4e 0ftrcanftree et dnUeeulovbre (^900-3790 ft. ; ffOiel RoqueUture; Ss-
pwre; 3onnaU)t on the road, near the vilia'ges of the same names, contain
three unpretending thermal estabUshuents, with springs (188** FIthr.) used
both for bathing and drinking. The baths are much frequented by the in-
kabitants of the surrounding districts.
Farther up the Aude valley is (11 M.) fWmiguh'es (4865 ft.; Merlat),
whence a 'courrier' plies daily (fare I fr.) to (9 M .) MmMowU (p. 189) via
tbe plain of the Capcir^ the Col de CatteiUcu (5640 ft.), «nd La lAagwM.
This expedition is much easier in the opposite direction.
Fkom AxAt TO Ax, an interesting expedition of about 10 hours. The
roa.te aecends the *Yall«y ef the Bebeaty,- anotfae* highly picturesque val-
ley , likewise presenting a suceession of wild ravines , connecting little
basins partly under cultivation and environed with wood. The most in-
teresting part, as far as Niort, about 41/2 brs. from Axat, should by
all meana be explored. About iVa hr. firotm the entrance, which is
V4 M. from Axat, we reach itar$a and 1 hr. farther on Joneou (1970 ft.) and
the* Joueon Defile, where the road runs high above the rocky bed of the im-
petuous torrent and goes through three short tunnels. Beyond these the
waters have worn the rocks on the right bank into a kind of huge colon*
nade. The stream and road now wind round a projecting bluff and, above
a mill, enter the *AbIe Beflle, which is even wilder than the previous one.
About 1 hr.' from Joucou Is BHfort, I/4 hr. beyond which is the striking
Viert BefUe. The village of Jfiort (9635 ft. ; inn), 3/4 hr. from Belfort, was
formerly the ehief plaee of the Sautt of Forets dlstriet. The upper part of
tte vaUey is atoo interesting; it contains the hamlets of (i/a hr.) Mortal
Bad(l/) hM. more) L*PaS^le. In 91/2 hrs. from the latter we reach the.Cfo)
d'£l Pr«M (about 5400 ft.); whence we descend to (IVs-^ brs.) Ax (p. 180).
184
29. The Eastern Pyrenees.
I. From Harbonne to Perpignan.
991/3 H. Railway in I-21/2 hrs. (fares 7 fr. 16, 4 fr.86, 3 fr. 15 e.)-
Nafhormef see p. 101. The line is at first the same as that to
Carcassonne, skirting the left side of the town. Beyond (5Vt M.)
Mandirac it ieeps along the Robin e Canal and passes between
the tltang de Bages et de Sijean, on the right, and the ttang
de Oruissan, on the left, the former 11 M. long by 2 to 4 wide,
the latter 8 M. lotig , with an average width of 2 M. , commun-
icating by two channels with the Mediterranean , which is now
visible for some distance. The hills on the right are the Gorbieres
(p. 101). — 10 M. Ste. Lucie. To the left aire salt-marshes.
13 M. LaHouyeUe or Port de la Nouvelle (Hdt. d' Italic) ^ a modern
seaport town with 2371 inhab., owes its importance to its relations
with Algeria. There are sea -baths at the end of the channel, about
1 M. from the town. Route to the Oorbldres, see p. 101.
The railway now keeps close to the sea, skirting on the right
the Etang de la Palme , and crossing its mouth, called Qrau de la
Franguij where there are sea-baths (hotel).
20 Vi ^' Leucate, station for the large village of that name,
IV4 M. to the S.E. , near Cape Leueate, so called from its white
rocks. *- We next skirt on the left and then cross the iStang de
Leucate or de ScUses , about 9 M. long with an average width of
5 M. (14,000 acres). - 22Vt M. Fitou,
28 Vt M. Sal$e$ (Hdt. BalUayre), a town of 2054 inhab., owes its
name to two salt -springs in the noighbourhood. It is an ancient
stronghold , of which the Castle (to the right) remains , built by
Charles Y. and now used as a powder-magazine. Salses is within
the ancient province of RottesHlon, and produces one of the most
higMy esteemed white wines, known as Macabeu.
The line, now at a considerable distance from the sea, crosses t
wide and vefy fertile plain , where two or three annual crops are
grown by means of irrigation. Above the last offshoot of the C-ot-
bieres appear the imposing Canigoa (p. 188) and other Pyrenean
heights. At Rivesaltes we cross the wide and often dry bed of the Agly.
35 M. RiveioZtes (H6t du Pare ; Marty ; du Luxembourg), a town
of 6000 inhab., famous for its Muscat wine, it the junction for the
new Kne from Carcassonne vii Qulllan (p. 182).
About 91/a M. to the W. is the small town, with some old fortifleations,
of Sitafttl (H&(. Qary)y the home of the Arago family. There is a statva,
by Ollya, of Francois Arago, the astronomer, the best known of the seTea
brothers (see p. 186). Route to the Corbi^res, see p. 101.
39VtM. Perpignan. — Xotela. QaAMD-HdTaL, Q«ai 8a<U Gemot,
B.3-6, B.l, d6j. 3,0.31/3, pens. 8}/|-iafr.;lldv.D«FBAiiea,QiMi8adi€ar-
noti DuNoRD BT DU Pbtit Pabis, VltMt FoDt Frolde, near the cathedral;
7,'?'^n^''' ^^*^ Arago ; db la Loon, Place de la Lege-, i» laPumu, B.
lVs-3^ d^j. 3^/}, D. 3 fr. £ HdT.-BasTAUHAHT du Hbldu, near the ftatioa.
— Oafie, chiefly in the Place de la Loge. — Ofi^Uliis l^aimsag hm. tha
station to the town 15 c.
PERPIONAN. //. Boute ^. 185
Perpignan, a town of 35 J57 inhab. and formerly the capital of
RoQssillon, is now the chief town of the department of the Pyrenees
OrientcUes and the seat of a bishopric , on the right bank of the
Tet, 7 M. from its mouth in the Mediterranean.
Its importanee, now much diminished, dates from the i2th and still
more the iSth cent. , when it was the residence of the Kings of Ma-
jorca. Ob the extinetioD of the kingdom, Perpignan reverted to Ara-
gosa, to which it had been ceded by its laat count in 1173, and it remained
faithfal to its new masters until the middle of the 17th cent., when, the
Spskniah governor haying violated its privileges , Richelieu was called in
to its assistance, and annexed it definitely to FVanee. Owing, however,
to its vicinity to and long dependence on 8pain , Perpignan sUU displays
more of the Spanish character than any other town on the frontier.
The town, which is about Vz M. from the station, is divided into
two unequal parts by the Basse, a tributary of the Tet. The old
town, which lies on the farther side of the river and contains aU
the objects of interest, cpnsiBts of a perfect labyrinth of narrow
streets, which, however, are kept clean and are cool in summer. We
enter the town by a handsome square with a promenade along the
river, embellished with a bronze statue, by A. Merci^, of the astro-
nomer Fr. Arago (1786-1853; see p. 184). Opposite is the small
modern Palais de Justice,
The Quai Sadi Carnot , at the opposite end of the square, on
the small tributary of the Tet, ends at the CastiUet, a small but
masslye brick structure , with battlements and a cupola , built in
1519 by Sancho, the second King of Majorca, restored in the 19th
cent., and now used as a prison. At the side is the Porte Notre-
Dame, and beyond it, the Promenade des Platanes with its fine
plane-trees, where concerts are given. At the farther end is a
War Monument for 1870-71 , with a statue of Revenge, by Belloc.
The Rue Louis Blanc leads from the Porte Notre - Dame to the
right to La Loge (Spanish, Honja', or market), originally constructed
at the end of the 14th cent, and now occupied partly as the 'mairie'
and partly as a caf^. The exterior presents a singular mixture of
the Gothic and Moorish styles, while the arcades of the court are
Romanesque.
Recrossing th(» Place de la Loge we continue straight on by the
fiue St. Jean, pass the Place G-ambetta, and reach the —
Cathedral of St. Jean , at the extreme N. £. of the town. Its
foundation dates from the year 1324, in the r^gn of Sancho , but
4ke£. end was finished only at the end of the 15th cent, during the
French occupation, while the nave, not begun until the 16th cent.,
has remained without a portal.
There is nothing tQ be noticed in the exterior, except the iron frame
of the tower (18th cent.); but the interior is remarkable for the bold
proportiona of its nave, 230 ft. long, fiO ft. wide, and 90 ft. high, and still
mora for the gorgeous decoration of its altars in the Spanish taste. The
*Reredai of the high^altar (ISJX)) is of white marble, with scenes from the
life of St. John, etc., by Soler of Barcelona. In the left transept is the
black and white marble tomb of Louis de Montmor (d. 1095), the first
FrQffcli. biatiop pf Perpifnan, A ehiapel opening from this transept to the
186 //. Rmkte 29. PERP!K>NAN. The Eoitern
Iteft of the etaoir eontains a curious aliar^eraen of painied wood^ dating
lron& the 15th or 16th century. The ttained-glaM wiadowB, th« orgaa-
case., the paintings on the walls of the chapels, and a Oothie chapel near
the porch to the right, are worthy of notice.
From the Place de la Lege the Rue des Trois Joum^es, and then
the Rue Jean-JacqUes Rousseau to the right, lead to the Place de
la Republufue, the largest and finest open space in the town, orna-
mented with trees and a white marhle fountain, and used as a market
for the excellent fruit which is produced in the neighbourhood.
To the £. is the Theatre^ to the right of which we pass, and then
turn to the right to the Place au BU, in which a bronze statue, by
G. Faraill, was erected in 1890 to H. Rigaud (1659-1743), the
painter, a native of Perpignan. — The Rue St. Sauveur leads farther
In the same direction to the VniverHty, founded In 1349, which
contains the civic Library and the Mustum (open 8ttn. and Thurs.
f^om 1 p. m., or noon in winter, to 5 p. m.)« Visitors are also ad-
mitted on other days. Besides a picture-gallery, the museum con-
tains sculptures, drawings, and a natural history collection.
A little farther on, to the 6. of the town, is the Citadel, in which
little of interest remains (no admission without special permit). The
keep is the ancient castle , entirely transformed , of the Kings of
Majorca; the chapel, which is used as an arsenal, has retained its
Romanesque portal and Gothic arcades.
From Perpignan to Pradei and Puycerda^ etc., see p. 197; to AmH/k-U^-
BaiifM and La PriuU^ see p. 180.
Fbok PflRPievAD TO Camt, 61/4 M., diligence twice daily in the season
(fare 75 c). To the left, about halfway, lies the hamlet of Cattell-RcgieUo^
with its conspicuous medinval tower, 6o'ft. in height. This was the site
of the town of Jtmsdno^ afterwards called MausktHO and R9u$s«au»y whence
the name Roustillon came to be applied to the surrounding district. Here
Hannibal made a treaty with the Gauls for the free passage of his army.
Rnseino was at that time hear the sea, at the mouth of the Tet. — About
11/4 M. beyond the village of Oaast are Sea BaOu (hotels), on a sandy baaeli.
FaoH Prrpiomak to Port Bov, 961/a M., railway in fiO min.-2i/s hrs.
(fares 4 fr. 96,3 fr. 35, 3 fr. 16 c); to Barcelona (1301/^ M.) in 5-9 hrs. (fares
about 96 fr., 90 fr. 10, 19 fr. 85 c). Best views to the left. — This railway,
formin? an interesting approach to Spain, passes under an aquednet, tan-
stmcted by the Kings of Msjorca , and crosses the R^art. 5i/s M . CorntiUa.
8 M. £lne (H6i. Royer; Bailie^ Ave. de la Gsre), a decayed town of
3903 inhab., has remains of fortlAcatlons and a fine view. The sea, now S II .
distant, formerly washed the foot of the little hill on which the t««m
stands. — Bine is the ancient IWberit^ an important city of the Sardones,
under ;the walls of which Hannibal encamped after crossing the Pyre-
nees (B. C. 318). It was named Helena by Gonstantine in memory of bis
mother, and was the scene of the assassination of the Enperor Const«n-
tius (A. 0. 350). Bine was destroyed by the Moors an the 8th cent.,
by the Kormans in the 11th, and by the Kings of France in the 13th and
loth centuries. The bishopric was removed to Perpignan in 1609. — The
old Ca^dreA Is a Romanesque building of the 13th eent., altered in the
11th and 15th. The plain battlemented facade is flanked by two square
towers, that on the right being of stone, of the latter half of the 19th cent.,
that on the left of modern brick. On the N. side is a small *€Msf«r In
white marble, of the 13-i5th cent., containing some remarkable sculp-
tures and inseriptions, and three fine aneient sarcophagi. — Heneb to Cdrd,
Amelie-les-Bains, and La Preste, see p. 190.
The line crosses the Tech, — 10 M. Teaau-dH- Yidre. ^ Beyond (ISl/t If .)
Pyreiiee$. PRADES. //. Route 29. 187
Argais-nr'MeriUot.Vognhg'^ Bonnet), a town of dSOTinhab.. now IV4 V.
from the eoMt, we again approach the sea, in order to round the outliers
of the MonU Albiret^ the B. extremity of the Pyrenees.
17 H. Oollimm (H^. Fontamo), the aneieat Coue0 IlUb^ri*^ a small sea-
port with 8391 inhafo. , ie picturesquely situated. It possesses an old
castle, while the Fwi St. Blw%t on the 8. B. side, the ehief remaining forti-
fiation, was built in the 18th eent., under Charles V. Good Roussillon
wine is grown here. Trade in eork ; important fishing industry. — Tun-
nel (930 yds.).
1611. Pert VandrM {Hdi. du Commerce; Duramd)^ the PoriU9 VemerUM
the £omans, a small town of 9886 iahab., is important both as a eom-
nereial and military harbour, being one of the safest on the Mediterranean.
Its extensiTe roadstead, with a depth of 40ft., ean accommodate the
largest Teasels. There are sea-water baths. To the 6.B. (li/s M.) is the
Gap Bimr (868 ft.), with a first-class lighthouse and a semaphore; fine
new. — Between this point and the frontier fine glimpses of the Ifedi-
tenruean-are obtained, though in s^ng and autnma it is liable to be
obscured by fog. — Four tunnels.
31 H. Banynls-aar-Ker (H6t. Set Bains et dela Plage; H6i. Rou»$illonnai»)^
wtth82%)inhab., is noted fbr the best Roussillon wine. The modem Churchy
elaborately omam^^nted but somewhat dark, contains a statue of the Virgin^
by Oliva, a Pyrenean sculptor. Banyuls is situated on a small bay of the
Mediterranean, with pleasant sea-baths, and enjoys a mild climate. — We
paM throngh a tunnel ('/^ V. long) between two fine bays and reach
(951/3 M.) (Urbire (buffet - hotel), the last French station, on a bay of the
same name, 1 M. from Cap Cerbhrey which has marked from ancient times
tbe frontier of France and Spain. We pass through a tunnel (1300 yds.
long) ander the C«< det Bali$tre§ (860 fl.), and enter Spanish territory.
361/s M. Port Bou (buffet; custom-house), where we change carriages
for (104 ]f.) Bareelona, vi& (16 M.) Figuerat (p. 190); see SaedekerU Spam
nd Portugal.
11. 7roin Perpignaa to YiUefranehe-ile-CoaiieBt and Puycerda.
U VerneL The Cartigcu. Molitg. MontlouU. Les Escaldas.
Railway to ViUefronche, 39 M., in U/s-19/4 hv. (fares 6 fr. 96, 8 fr. S5.
Sfr.aOc); DiLiOBVCB twice daily from Villefranche to (18l/sM.) MtnMouis
in 41/3 hrs. (fares 0 fr., 8 fr. 50 c). Public coBTcyance from Montlouis to
(14 m.) Bourg-Madamey near Puycerda, in 31/3 hrs. (fare Ss/^fr.).
The line ascends the fertile valley of the Tet. — 9' ^ M. Millm
vHfit. Capitaine), with 2208inhah., formerly a fortified place.
14 M. nu (H&t. Montoss^), with 32d8inhab., is situated in a
plain noted for lis fruit. — 16Vt M. Bouleternere , with a ruined
castle. The valley contracts. — 20 M. Vin^a (Hdtel St. Pierre), a
small town, i^/4 M. to the N.W. of whteh are the baths of that name,
vitli thermal sulphureous springs.
26 M. Pradai {Hdt. du Ckmimerce; January) y a town of 36(>6
inhab. , in a fine situation. The Church contains several altars in
A« Spanish style, notably the high-altar, a pretentious if not very
t»8teful work by Jos.Suiiyer (14th cent.), formerly at St. Michel-de-
Cuxa(8ce below).
In the charndng valley of the Taurinya, 3 M. to the S., are the fine
'^•Ins of the powerful abbey of St. Miehel-de-Ouxa y founded in 878.
iltovPKADBS TO THE Baths OP MoLiTG (pron. ''Molitch'), 5 M., diligence
(1 fr) during the season, via (2 M.) CatUar. — The Baths of Kolitg (1475 ft. ;
p«rmai EstabUshment ; Ifartg) lie in the narrow gorge of the CasteUane,
"» which it has been diffleult to find room for the three thermal estab-
188 //. Route 29. LE VERNET. The EoBtem
lishments. The latter are supplied by 13 sulphur springs (7]^-10(F Fahr.),
whieh are used for drinking and for bathing in the treatment of maeoiie
and skin diseases, rheumatism, and other ailmenM.
The Aflcsmr of thb GAmeou is now best made from Prades, yii the
(51/9-^ hrs.) Col des CortaUts (ehalet-hdtel), whieh may be reached by car-
riaee. Thenee the ascent leads vi& the CM de$ B*tanyoU and the Col de
la Ferdiu, whence we follow the crest for a full hour. The *Oaaig«a
(9135 ft.), the iop of which forms a platform, 96 ft. long by 10 ft. wide,
with a hut , is the last of the high mountains at the £. end of the Py-
renees. It forms a huge mass , the buttresses of which radiate to distances
of 7 to 12 miles as the crow flies, and form exceedingly steep arites on the
]K. and N.E. sides of the summit. The view is superb, embracing from
the S.E. to the N.E., beyond the Alberes and the Oorbi^res, the coast of the
Xediterranean from Barcelona to Monipellier, 100 M. distant; to the N.
the Gorbieres, and the plain extending to the mountains of the Ayeyron ;
to die W. the mountains of the Ari^ge; and to the S. those of Catalonia.
Beyond Prades the valley of the Tet gradually b«comes"narrower.
— 26 M. (from Perpignan) Sia, with an iron and marble factory.
29 M. ViUefiranehe-da-CoBflent (1425 ft. ; Hot. Lhotie, unpre-
tending), a small town at the confluence of the Tet and the Vemet
stream (see below), fortified on the plans of Yauban to command
the valley of the Tet, which is here very narrow. The Chcttean, or
fort, commands both valleys. The extensive caves which are used
as casemates and magazines for the citadel cannot be visited with-
out special permission. The situation is wfld and picturesque.
Fho« Villbfradobb to Lb VaairBT (Ganigou), 39/4M., public convey-
ance from the station (75 c). — IV4 M. Oohttakt-dt-Co^^tt the Roman-
esque church of which possesses a fine white marble porch, and a stone
altar-screen of the i4th century.
3»U M. Le Yemet or Vernei-les-BainM. — Hotels: Grand- H6t. du PorimfmL,
131/3 fr. per day-, du Pare^ 8 ft.'^ Jbrahtm-Paehmt delUr Pt^feetmre, attached
to the Etablissement Thermal; H6teldu Canigou^ family hotel 1 de la Paste.
- Furnished VOUu. — Baths 1 - II/2 fr. Douches 80 c. - 1 fr. 50. Glass «/
Mineral Watsr 5 c. —^ Casino^ with theatre.
Le Vemet (3035 ft.), famous for its thermal waters, is a beaotifally
situated village in a mountain^valley, the E. side of which is formed by
a shoulder of the Canigou (see below). The EtahUsstmeni Thermal is
situated in a fine park on the bank of a stream^ a little outside the
village. The sulphur waters are supplied by 10 principal springs, with
a temperature varying from 46° to i3r Fahr. They are used espeeiatly
for afleetions of the respiratory organs, the climate being such as to
allow invalids to remain during the winter. A Sanatorium has recently
been constructed on the slope of the Ganigou above the park, for the open-
air cure. The huge new Casino is designed, according to a special notice,
to become *el centro de la high life inter nacional".
An interesting excursion (S/4 hr.) nday be made to the S. vii (iM.)
Casteil to the ruins of the abbey of St. Martin-de-Canigou ^ lyhe^e there is
a Byzantine church with monolithic white marble columns.
The AsoKT OP thb Cakioou from Le Vemet vii the Ool des 0>rtal«ta
(see above) leads first to the K. over the (Vahr.) Col de Trouge to(30mia.)
PU'ols^ where it joins the route from Prades (see above). — The Brkehe
Durier, the most direct route to the Col des Cortalets, is practicable only
for experienced Alpine climbers. — The old ascent vii the Oranfes de
Cady, I. e. on the S. side, takes 6-7 hrs., but riding is practicable to within
1 hr. of the summit (horse 10, guide 10 fr.). We proceed vii (TosMI, Che
(1 hr.) Cascade Anglaise, the (IV4 hr.) Col du Cheval-Mort, the (V4 hr.)
Randais But^ the (l/a hr.) Serrat de IfaHaUes pastures, and the (I/9 hr.)
Col Vert. We then descend into a ravine to reach the (Vs hr.) Ormm^me
de Cady and the (I/3 hr.) PlaUau de Cady^ the farthest point to whieb
P^eneAs. JlOOTLOtJlS. It ttwktt 2^, 189
hopses can Me«iid» The last part of the aseent is by a tiresome elimb
oyer debris, and through a fissure or ehemin^e, in whieh natural steps are
formed by the schist. The Alpine Club has supplied a railinf.
The Road to Montlouis and Puyoebda ascends the valley of
the Tet, crossing the river. To the left is a ruined tower. ~ 31 Vt M.
Serdinya (1705 ft.); 32 M. Jonctt,
34 M. Olette (2010 ft.; Bdtd dt la Fontaine -y GaiUarde), a
market-village^ beyond which there was until lately only a path with
steps or 'graus* (Lat. gradus). — The road now passes through a
tunnel and over a fine bridge. About 2Vt M. from Olette a path to the
left descends to the ('/4 M.) baths of the Oraus des Canavcilles,
supplied by 10 sulphur springs (Bd'^-lSO'* Fahr.). - 38 M. Lei
Oraus d'Olette or Bairn de Tkuh (about 2460 ft.), a modern es-
tablishment with 42 copious sulphur springs, from 80* to 172° Fahr.
They are chiefly employed in the treatment of rheumatism , neu-
ralgia, and diseases of the urinary organs.
We recross to the left bank shortly before reaching (39 M.) Thuh-
dCi-Llaf (2450 ft.). The valley continues to be shut in by high
mountains. On the right bank are the Oorgea de Caren^a, rising to
tbe Lake of Caren^a (about 6 hrs. ; 7430 ft), with some exceedingly
picturesque spots in the first two-thirds of the way.
42 M. Fon/p^droww (3210ft. ; two inns). Considerable engineering
works have been necessary for the continuation of the road , which
makes wide circuits and crosses two ravines by means of viaducts.
47 V2 M. Kontloiiis (5280ft.; Hotel de France; Jamhon), the
old capital of the French Cerdagne, is a small town once important
as a fortress, situated upon a plateau. It is commanded by the
neighbouring heights, especially the Tie de la Tausse (6685 ft.) , to
the N^.7 on vjiiioli a nev fort has b#en built. The cool climate of
Montlouis attracts numerous Spanish visitors. The winter is very cold.
To the S.E. is (3 M.) Ylanto (5910 ft.), whei« there is a very curious
ehureh, perhaps of Arabic eenatruetion. It fonns an equilateral triangle
with a semicircular apse on each side and a dome in the centre.
About 5 H. to the W, is the Sbrmitafe of Fent-Bonea, a pilgrim -resort
with a Kt. Calvary, on a heiight commanding an admirable view of the
Cerdagne. Cheap accommodation may be obtained from the hermit (^pa-
borde*). The pilgrimages are interesting sights for strangers, and are in-
variably accompanied with dancing and other amusements. The chief
pllgriinage occurs on Sept. 8th.
The road ascends for about 2Vje M. more to the Col de la
Perche (5320 ft. ; inn), which aftords a fine view. We then descend
by another col (488() ft. ) into the fertile plain of the Cerdagne. —
55 M. Saillaffouse (4285 ft ; Hdtel Planes), on the Segre.
The ascent of the Pulgaiial (9545 ft. ^ 7 hrs.), on the frontier to the S.S.,
may be made from Baillagouse without difficulty (with guide). We aseend
via (8/. hr.) Llo, the (23/4 hrs.l CMr^e de ta CuleMe, the (IV4 hr.) Col de
Uo (8995 ft.), and (1 hr.) the Pie de TSigre (9170 ft.). The view is extensive
to the S. and towards the sea.
Our route now keeps to the right, while a more interesting but
badly kept road leads to the left to (3 M. from Saillagouse) Llivia,
an ancient vUlage with a few ruins, in mx isolated portaon of Spanish
Xm ILU<ni4f29i PU1^G¥!ia)A* The Sa$i0»^
of Spanish tomtory, about 4Vt sq. M. in area.. Our road passes
(57 M.) Ste. L^oendie and (60 M.) Hix, and reaches —
61 M. Bonrg-Madame (3740 ft ; Hdtel Salvat, pens. 7 fr.), a small
town %t the confluence of the Segre and Raour , the last place on
French territory. The French and Spanish custom-houses lie at
opposite ends of the bridge over the Segre.
6IV2M. Puycerda (4075 ft.; Hot Tixaires; Europe), with about
5000 inhab., was the ancient capital of the Spanish Gerdagne, and
a fortress several times taken by the French. The church is curiously
decorated in the Spanish style.
From Bouro-Madamk to Lbs Escaldas, ) M . \ during the season car-
riages, 1 fr. per head. — Las Xaoaldas (Aguas ctOdaSy or Hot Springs ; 4490 ft. ;
hotel at the Therm9l Establishment) is a French hamlet with 10 sulphur,
chalybeate .and other springs (62** to 107° Fahr.), chiefly frequented by
Spaniards irom the neighbouring districts. The establishment is well
managed) and it surrounded by shady walks in whteh there are fine points
of view. — Guide (with mule) : Jean Duraikd of Dorres, V« V. to the W.
P9T DB Gablittb. The ascent , best made from Les Sscaldaa (5 hrs. ;
8I/4 hrs. there and back), is not dilWcult and the greater part of it
may be done on mule*back. We aseend first^to the K., and then to the W.
to the pastures of the (V9 Im^O Gtana iLrmocki, abd pasting, an iirigat&oo
capal, reach (I1/4 hr.) a col to the left of the CasteiUa (6860 ftj. We
then cross the Bisert de CarliUe^ studded with ponds, and passing (IV4 hr.)
a hut, and (V2 !>'•) ^ spring, arrive in y^lir. more at the base of the
peak. 1 he mules must be ieft at this VMolnt. A fatiguiBg elUnb of Vs ^^•
now takes us to the Col de Carlitte (8590 ft.) and 20 min. more to the ex-
ceedingly narrow crest of the Pay de Carlitte (9580 ft.), the highest summit
of the Eastern Pyrenees. The view is magnificent, including the whole
of this part of the chain from the Centx^al Pyrenees to the MedlterranesD,
which, however, is not always visible, apd from the plaina of LaAguedoe
to the most distant summits of Catalonia. — t>e8cent to L^ffogpitalet (Ax;
Andorra), see p. 181.
III. From Perpignaa to AmAlit-lei-Ba^ and La Prett*.
ToAmilie-4€t-Bain$y^M., Railway in MS/4 b'- (fares 4 fk-. 80, 3 fr. 40,
Ifr. fiOe.); and thence to (1 1/3 M.) .irlet-stir^ IWa, whence a dilimee pliea
daily in summer to (Ifi^/a M.) La Prette in 8</4 ^n. (6 fr. up, 4 fr. down,
return-fare 8 fr.).
From Perpignrm to (8 M.) Elne, see p. 186. The line diverges
to the S. W. and ascends the valley of the Tech, bounded on the S.
by the Montt Alberts, To the right is the Canigou (p. 188). —
13 M. Brouilla; 15 M. Banyuls-dee^Aspret,
18 Vt M. Le Boulou (Hot, Nofueresi Biol), about 1 M. to the S.
of which are the Baths of Le Boulou (Hotel, pens. G^t'^O fr.), with
several chalybeate springs, chiefly employed for diseases of the liver.
A DiLiOBVCB (1 fr.) plies hence to the frontier-village of le PertkM
(Hot. Gassagi es), 51/3 M. to the 8., situated on the CM du /VtMim, and com-
manded by the F»rt de Bellegarde, on an Isolated height (1380 ft.). The road
(Bareelona road) passes the Baths of Le Boulou, and affords flae views of
the Canlgou^ to the right. -^ The Oel do TeittkuM (950 ft.) Is said to have
been Hannibars route across the Pyrenees, and was possibly the site of
the ^Trophees de Pompt^e^ a tower erected to commemorate the conquest
of Spain. — About 4Vs V- fanlher on is the Spanish villafe ot l^ 'hm^***^^
(custom-bouse ; inn) , 10 ML beyond which is FIfuaras (BoUUh a town of
9900 Inhab., commanded by a Citadel of no military Importance. Flgueras
is a station on tlie railway from Perpignan to Barcelona (p. 187).
Pyrenees, ^llEIiI£-L£S-BAIN$. IL Route ^> 191
21 M. SU Jean-Fia^de-Cors* We next cross the Tech by
means Qf a lofty and long viaduct , to the left of which is the old
l*4>nt de C/ret, with an arch of 150 ft span, rising to the height of
over 95 fL This bridge is said to be of Roman origin, dating from
tl>.e 3rd cent of the Christian era.
23VtM. G«r«it (Hotel de France), IV4 M. to the S.£. of the
sta.iiaii , is an ancient town of 37 66 inhab,, with some remains of
fortiftcatioDS, a 14th cent Fountain, and a 12th cent Chureh, with
a marble Gothic portal. It Is noted for its fruit
The valley contracts and takes the name of YaUe»pir (*vaUis
a^peva')* The railway crosses and recrosses the Tech. Fine view of
tla« Gaiiigou to the right On the right is Palalda (see below), and
on the left, the fort of Am^lie, on a height commanding the valley.
2dVt M. Am«Ue*lei-BMnt (800 ft; Tkwmes Pujr^de; Therme$
Mtamaini; MafHnet; PellieeU'; Bntite; bath 1 flr.; English Chmrch
Service in summer), formerly Atlee^Ue^Babm, reeeived its pre-
sent name under Louis Philippe in honour of Queen Am^lie. It
is a prosperous town with 1381 inhab., finely situated at the con-
fluence of the Tech and the Mondony^ and at the foei of the Fort^l^th
Rains (1235 ft), constmcted in the tine of Louis XIV. Though an
impoitaat thermal station, it is not expensive. There are 20 copious
sulphur springs (BS'^-lid" Fahr.), which have been in use since the
time of the Remans. Owing to the mildness of the climate the baths,
which are used mainly for affections of the lungs, are open tbMughout
tHe year and are considerably frequented even in wiiiden
The Thermes Bomains still retain some parts of the ancient
establishment, including the iavacrum', a large vaulted hall at the
entrance, 66 ft long, 40 ft. wide, and 37 ft high, and another
room on the left, containing a piscina. The baths are well equipped
and are reached by a gallery from the hotel in connection with them.
In front is a fountain with thermal water.
The Thermes Pujade, on the left bank of the Mondony, are
better situated, but the bathing arrange ofients are less complete.
Behind the establishment is an attractive little pa^k on the verge
of a gorge, from which the Mondony descends in a cascade, above
a dam, called 'Hannibal's Wair.
A short distance below these baths the Mondony is crossed by
a high Foot Bridge, leading to a shady promenade in which is the
Military Hospital y the largest military thermal establishment in
France, with accommodation for 500 patients.
Wales avd Excursioms. — To Palalda (^Palatium Danf), a pietures^ue
vIllAge on the slope of » hill on the left bank of the Teeh , wbieh we
cross by a bridge of ancient origin at the entrance to Amelle. — To J/irat-
bolo (1890 ft. ; ane view) , 3 M. to the N. — To Arlessur- Tech and the a/)rffe
de la fiou , see p. 182. — To the Serrat-d'en-Aterle (about 1640 ft. ^ fine
view), a height about Va br. below the Military Hospital. — To Montalba^
31/a H. to the S., via the pretty valley of the Mondony. — To the Roc de
France (470P ft.), on the frontier, about 4 hrs. by a path for which a guide
la advisable. Splendid view.
192 II. Routed. LA'PRESTE-LES-BAms.
3OV2 M. ArlM - nr - Tech (907 ft?; ff6t Pujade ; Coite), the Ro-
man Arutae, a quaint little town (2275 inhiab.) with a remarkable
Romanesqae Church and Cloisters in the Transition style , the
remains of a Benedictine abbey. The old Cataionian manners and
customs, fetes, and public dances, are preserved here perhaps better
than anywhere else in this part of the French Pyrenees.
About IV4 M. beyond Aries a road diverges to the right, skirting
the(^/2 hr.) Gorge de la FoUy an inaccessible caiion in the limestone
rock nearly 1 mile long , with its two sides , 525 ft. in height , at
the most only 15 or 16 ft. apart, while the channel at the bottom,
through which the torrent dashes , is but 3 ft. Wide. The road leads
vifi' the plateau on the right to (1 hr. more) the village of €or$avy
(2580 ft ; view).
From (SSViM.) Pont-du'Lentp a road leads to th« left into
Spain vi& (iOV, M.) 8L Laurwt^de-Cerdans (2490 ft; HIttel du
Midi) and (3 M.) Cotutouges^ a village ^4 M. to the W. of the frontier,
with a pretty 12th cent, church.
The road to La Preste asoends a picturesque defile. 37 Vt M. Le
Teeh (irin), picturesquely situated.
42 M. Prats -de^^MoUo (pron. 'Moyo'; 2620 ft.; H^el du Com-
meree), a small walled town <2481 inhab.) on a meulKtain - slope
commanded by the Fort de la Oarde (2810 ft.), constructed by Vau-
ban , and by an interesting Gothic and Romanesque OhtMreh, with
fine altars.
A mule-path leads hanee into 8p«i», via the (3 krs^) Ool fi'Axes (about
4920 ft.), perhaps the pass crossed by Csesar , in wjiich ease the name
might be derived from the altar Cara*) erected by him to commemorate
the defeat of Bompey*s lieutenants. The route leads to (S hrs. more)
the small Spanish town of Camprodon (3990 ft.), whenee a diligeiMe plies
to San Juan de loi AbadeMox^ the terminus of the Spanish Northern Bail*
way (see Baedeker''s 'Spain).
Beyond Prats the road is highly picturesque. On an eminence
(5050 ft.) to the left (S.) rises the 14th cent Tour de Mir; to the right
lies the hamlet of St, Sauveur ; to the left the Cdscade de Oraffwii
(80 ft.) ; to the right the hamlet of La Preste.
46 M. La Preste-les-Bains (3705 ft.; Thermal Estahlithmentt)
lies partly on a plateau between the ravines of the Tech and the
Llabane. There are two establishments, open throughout the year,
with abundant sulphur springs (113° Fahr.), which have been long
known and are used especially for calculus. There are beautiful
shady walks in the neighbourhood.
About 1/2 hr. to the K. W. is the attractive Cfrotte d* Can-Brix^U
rather difficult of access. — The Col Pragon (5366 ft.) is IV^ hr. to the
S. *, 1/3 hr. beyond It lies the Spanish village of Ap<«»a>fl7; then Ofi ^^-f
Hollo and (1 hr.) Camprodon (see above).
The ascent of the Pie de Oostabojuie ^066 ft. ; 5 hrs. ; with guide), on
the frontier to the W., is easily made. We follow the valley and round
the mountain to the 17. to reach the Ool dt la Palt, whieh lies aboat
i/a hr. to the W. of the top. •View superior even to that fW>«i the
Canigou. — About 1/4 hr. below the eol is the Source 0/ th* r«ch.
193
III. SOUTH EASTERN PRANCE TO THE LOIRE.
AUVERGNE. THE CEVENNES.
30. From Paris to I^yons 195
a. Yii Dijon and Micon 195
From (^alon-sur-Sadne to Auzonne; to Bourg; to
Lons-le>Saiiiiier; to Clnny, 196. — He de la
Palme; Beavjeu, 197.
b. ViA Nevers and Paray-le-Monial 198
From Sai»6ais« to Bourges, 196. ^ Prom Moulins to
Montlu^on \ to Bourbon • TAraliambawlt (Cosne-
sur-r(£iO. 300. — From Paray-le-Monial to Ma-
con, vi& Ciuny, 901. — From Paray-le-Monial to
Roanne, 208.
c. VU Nevers and Boanne 202
From Varennes-ffur- Allier to Commentry. Sall-
ies-Bains. Ambierle. St. Alban, 903. — From St.
Victor to Thizy and Goors, 904,
31. From Paris to St. Etienne 204
a. Vi&Roanne 204
From St. Just-sur-Loire to Firminy, 905.
b. V14 Vicby, Thiers, and Montbrison .... 205
Excursions from Vieby, 909.
32. From Nevers (Paris) to Le Puy 210
a. ViA Clermont-Ferrand 210
Mozat. Chatelguyon. ChateaunenMes-Bains. Prom
Biom to Volyie. Maringues. From Coudes to St.
Keetaire and to Besse, 911.
b. Via Vichy, Ambert, and Ghaise-Dieu .... 213
33. Gleirmont'F«rrand and its Environs 214
a. Clermont-Ferrand 214
b. Royat 217
0. The Pciy de Ddme. Auvergne ...... 218
From GLermont-Ferrand to Mont &ogaon and the
Plateau de OergOYie, 220; to La Bourboule and
Le Mont .Dore, 290, 221.
34. La Bourboule. Mont Dore and its Environs . . . 221
a. La Bourboule 221
b. Le Mont Dwe 222
c Environs of Le Mont Dore 224
35. Lyons 227
Environs of Lyons, 299. — From Lyons to Mont-
brison; to Tr^voux: to Momant and Vaugneray^
to Aoste^St-Oenix, 940.
36. From Lyons to Bor<ieatix • . 241
a. Vi4 Roanne, Montlu^on, and Limoges .... 241
Ebreuil. St. Eloy. Marcillat, 241. — N6ris. From
Montlu^on to Bourges; to Aurillae, 242. — From
Baedeker. Southern France. 4th Edit. 13
194
Busseau-d'Ahun to Felletin. From Vieilleville
to BovrgaiiQiif, 343.
b. VIA St. Etienne, ClermontrFerrand, and Tulle.
Auvergne 24S
I. From Lyons to Clermont-Ferrand .... 243
From St. Etienne to Mont Pilat.. 246. — From St.
Etienne to Annonay and St. Bambert-d*All>oii.
From Bonson to Craponne • tar • Arson, 346. —
Chalmazel, 247. — Puy de MontoneeL From
Pont - dn-Ghateau to Billom^ 248.
II. From Clermont-Ferrand to Brive. Northern
A-uvergne . .' 248
From Laquenille to La Bovrbovle and Le Mont
Dore, !M9.
^11. From, Brlve to Bordeaux Yia P^rigueux . . 260
37. From Lyons to Toulouse. Southern Auvergne. . . 260
From Lavoiite-sur-Loire to Yssingeaux^ 251. »— From Le Pay
to Espaly, PoUgnac, etc. To the Mezenc via Le Monas-
tier, 254. — Plomb du Gantal, 255.
38. From Clermont-Fetrand to B^ziers vi& St. Flour and
Millau 257
From St. Flour to Chaudesaigues, 357. — From Le Mo-
nastier to Mende, 256. — From>Gampagnao to St. Geniez-
d^Olt. From Millau to Nant. Boouefort. S^. Affrique.
From Tournemire to I^e Xig*'*-* ^^- ~~ From B^darieux
to Graissesac (Laeaune)., ^JoO.
39. The Gausses and the Cafton of tl^e Tarn .... . . 260
a. Fnom Mande to Ste. Enlmie, Le Rozier (Mont-
pellleMe-Vieui), ajid Millau 261
I. From Mende to Ste. Enimie. (a.) Vi& Sauveterre*,
(b.) Vi& lepagnaci (c.) Via tbe'Gol de Montmirat,
Florae^ and Isf^agnaci (4-) Via Lanii6i<)l0, the Ool
de Montmirat, and IspagnacC, 3Q1. — From Florae
to Meyrueis, 363.
II. From Ste. Enimie to Le Rozier^ 363.
b. From Banassac-la-Canourgue to La Maleiie, Le
RoKier (Montpelller-le-Vleux), and Millau . . . 264
I. From Banassae to La Malene, 264.
II. From La Malene to Le Rorier, 364.
. III. From Le Rotier te Millau. (a.) Ti& Ag uesvae. <b.>
Via Montpellier-le-Vieux. 365. — BaTinat of Lea
Palifes and the Riou-Sec^ 366. — From Le Rosier to
the Valley of the Jonte. Bramabiau, etc.^ 367.
40. From Clermont-Ferrand to'Ntmes tI^ the C^ennee . 267
From Langogne to Mende, 367. — St. Laurent-les-Baipj.
From ' yillefort to Mende. Exeuraions in the Losire
Mountains, 368.
41. From Nlmes to Montpellier and Cette 269
From Lunel to Sommieres (Le Vigaa), 909. ^ From Mont-
pellier to Palavaa^ to Le Viga«4 toLodfeve, 374, 376. —
Balarue-les-Bains. 376.
195
30. From Paris to Lyons.
a. yi& Dijoa and MAeoB.
317 M. Railway in Ti/a-HVa h". (fare* 57 fr. 35, 38 fr. 70, 25 fr. 25 c).
The trains start from the Gare de Lyon, — Train d€ Luxe via Lyons to
the Biviera , see p- 457. The other express - trains have sleeping and
restaurant ears.
Paris, see Baedtker*9 Pari*. — Railway thence viA (195 M.)
JHjon (*Baffet; Grand-Hdtel de la Cloche, de Bonrgogne, etc.) to
(218 M.) Beaone {Buffet y Hot, dc la Po»te, du ChevreuU, etc.), see
Baedeker^s Northern France.
Beyond Beaune the railway continues its southward course. —
222 M. Meursault, n«ted for its white wines. Farther on, to the
right, is PvUgny, where Montrachet wine is produced.
226Vt M. Ck^^j (Buffet; *Hdt, du Commerce; de Bourgogne),
a commercial town with 4600 inhah. , is situated between the
Dheune and the Canal du Centre (see below).
From Ghagny to Nevtri and to Paray-le-Monial (Boannev p- 309), see
Baedeker** Northern France.
The Lyons line next passes through two short tunnels , the first
ander the Canal du Centre ; It then enters the valley of the Thalle
by a deep cutting and reaches (231 Jtl.) Fontaijua,
237 M. Chalon-sur-Saftne. — HotaU. Ghakd-Hotbl, Gb. Hdr. db
l'Ecbopb, du Chbvkbcil, DBS Neoociants, all in the Rue or Place du
Port Villiers, near the Saone^ Terminus, near the station, a large new
establishment. — CaMm at and near the Grand-Hotel and near the bridge.
Chalon ' 8ur - Sadne is an old commercial and manufacturing
town of 29,035 inhab., on the right bank of the Saone, at the mouth
of the Canal du Centre, which connects this river with the Loire
at Digoin (74 M.). It has few noteworthy buildings.
Chalon is the €abtUaHfttn of the aneients , the principal town of the
^dni and afterwards the chief Roman settlement in Gaul. Christianity
was introduced here by St. Marcel in the 2nd cent. , and the town was
the seat of a bishopric until 1790. Chalon was the residence of the Kings
of Burgundy, had counts of its own from the 8th cent., from 1387 to 1477
was subject to the Dulces of Burgundy, but was finally united to the crown
of France by Louis HI.
Quitting the station, we find on the left a square containing an
OhelUk of the 17th cent, (erected on the opening of the Canal du
Centre), the Palais de Justice, and the Corn Market, two modern
buildings. In front of the Palais is a square with a pretty fpuntain.
The Grande Rue, to the right, descends to the old Pont 8t» Laurent
&nd to an island in the Saone, on which is a large Hospital, founded
in the 16th and rebuilt in the 19th century. — Not far from the
bridge, to the left, is the Church of St. Vincent,, an ancient cath-
edral built in the 12-15th centuries. It has a modern fa9ade with
two towers. The most interesting parts are the choir and apse,
dating from the 13th century^. — Below the bridge is a small harbour.
On the quay is a statue of Niepce (1765-1833), one of the inventors
of photography.
13*
196 ///. Routt 30, MACON. From ParU
Fkoh Chaloh to Avxf)N«]ri, 41 H., railwafifci ^^Vs ^^b. (fares 7 fr. 40,
5 fr., 3 fr. 30 c.). — 10 M. Gergy^ on the right bank of the Saone, is
united with Verjux , on the left bask ^ by aaeaas of a handsome stone
bridge, erected in 1890. — 11 H. Allerey is a station on ibe Un« from
Ghagny to Dole (see Baedeker'' i Northern France), — 41 M. Auxonn,* (see
Saedektr^s Northern France).
From Ghalom to Bouro,48M., railway in 2i/2>4hrs. (fares 8 fr. 65, 5 fr.80,
3 fr. 80 c). — 3 M . St. Marcel^ once the seat of a famous abbey, now re-
presented only by the fine Transition ehnrch (13tb century). — 10 M. St. Ger-
main-dM- Plains the j»netion for Lons-le-gaonier (see below). ~^M. Cuitery;
251/2 M. Romenay; 33 M. Montr evel; 41 H. Attignai. — ^M. Bonrg (n.HeU).
From Chaloh to Loms-lb-Sauvibr, 42 M. , railway in ^Ia-^U ^'^^
(fares 7 fr. 60, 5 fr. 15, 3 fr. 35 c). — To (10 M.) St. Oermain-du-PMu, see
above. — 38 M. Louhans (Bt^ffeti H6t. St. Martin)^ a town with 4538 iahab.,
has another station on the line from Dijon to St. Amour (see Baedeker't
Northern France). — 43 M. Lons-le'Satinier (see Betedeker^i Ncrthem Framee).
From Ghalom to Cluky , 31 Jf . , railway in U/s hr. ( fares 5 fr. SO,
3 fr. 80, 2 fr. 45 c). — This line runs first to the W., then to the S.,
through a vine-growing country. — 5 M. Givry^ formerly fortified, produces
?:ood wine and has important crtone • quarries. — 7 M. 8t. D4taeri^ with a
ortified church of the 14th century. — I71/2 M. St. QengouXy a small aid
ancient town, is the junction for a branch-line to (I6I/2 H.) Montchanin (see
Baedeker's Northern France). — 23 M. Cormatin ^ 26 M. MauCly. — 31 M.
Clunpy see p. 201.
Beyond Ghalon the Lyons line for a short distance approaches
the 8adne. In clear weather the Jura Mts. are seen.
253 V2 M. Tonnrns {H6t, du Sauvage, good; Hot d- Buffet, at the
station) is a commercial and manufacturing town of 4866 inhab., on
the Sadne. The church of 8t, Philibert is a massive building of the
Burguudian Romanesque type, dating from the 11 -12th cent., and
slightly altered in the 14- 15th. The nave has large round pillars,
with transverse barrel-vaulting. In the S. aisle is a pointed stone
fragment of a tomb (15th cent.), much mutilated, with a 12th cent.
Byzantine statue of the Virgin, in wood, in front of it. The Chapel
of the Virgin and the Chapel of Ste. Philomine contain some inter-
esting paintings. The apse at the £. end is surrounded with columns
with fine capitals, and the outside of this part of the church is also
worth noticing. The crypt beneath the choir is interesting. Tiie
organ -case also repays inspection. — The Place d© I'Hdtel -Se-
ville is embellished with a marble Statue of Qreute, the painter,
a native of Tournus (1725-1805), by Rougelet.
259 M. Vehizy; 264 M. Pont-de-Vnux- FleuHvUU; 266 M.
273V2M. 1IAc6n(Bt£iffO. -- Hotels. Dbs Champs -ELTsiss, Place
de la Barre, R. Q1/2-IO, D. 4, omn. Vs fi*-^ db L*EuBorB, Qaai du Nord;
i>v Saovaob, near the bridge; dk FaxMca «t Dsa BrBAiiasas, near the
station. — Caf4s on the Quai du Midi. — Post Office ^ near the Lye^. -
Bains du Centre^ Rue Gnlcheron.
Macon is a town of 18,675 inhab. , the capital of the depart-
ment of Saone-et- Loire, on the right bank of the Sa6ne.
MiooB , the iiaHtco of the ^dul and a place of some importance in
Gaisar's time, fell into decay under th{B Roman empire. Later it was
repeatedly pillaged by the barbarians who invaded Gaul, and down t«'
the 13th cent, was several times besieged. It was not finally annexed to
the crown till the reign of Louis XI. (1461-83). During the Religious
to L^om, yiLLI}FBAN€HB. If L Route 39. 197
Wars (1959-67) it more than oaee ckanged hands and suffered aeeordingly.
Xaeon is now a manafaeturing and commercial town, but poor in histor-
ical monnments.
The Rue Gambetta leads from the station to the Quai du Midi,
uow a promenade, adorned with a bronze Statue of Larruirtine (b. at
Mficon 1790, d. 1869), by Falguiere. The Saone is crossed farther on
by an old bridge of 12 arches, leading to the suburb of St. Laurent.
Near the statue is a fine block of buildings, partly of the 18th cent.,
comprising the Hotel de VilU, the TheeUrej and the Archive$, The
Muste, in the Hotel de Yille, the entrance to which is opposite
St. Peter's (see below), is open on Siin. from 2 to 4 and to strangers
on other days also.
Behind the H6tel de VlUd, through which we pass, is the Church
of St. Feter,'tL large modern Romanesque building, with nave and
aisles, transepts, amlmlatonry, side««hapel8) and galleries. The cha-
pels are richly decorated with paintings. In the right transept is a
beautifully framed epitaph of 1649.
The street in front of the Mtts^e leads to the right to the Place
de rHerberie, in which, at the left-hand corner, is a curious Tiinber
House, Keeping straight on, we find in another square, behind the
market, the remains of the ancient Cathtdral of 8t.Yineent, of which
the facade with the narthex and towers dates from the 13«*15th cen-
turies. One of the towers still retains a portion of its spire and some
line sculptures. The narthex is used as a chapeL The entrance is
on the side next the market, where the graceful columns of the
church fonn a kind of screen , and where there is a miscellaneous
collection of fragmentary sculptures. In the chapel the tympanum
of the ancient doorway may be noticed. — The building to the right
is the Prefecture, rebuilt in 1866.
About 21/2 M. above Macon is the He de la Palme^ where the Helvetii
'were defeated in B. G. 61 by Ceesar, after 370,000 of them had crossed
the Saone with the intention of settlibg In &anl.
From Mieon to Oeneva^ see B. 42; to Aix-iea-BainSy see B.B.. 42^ 4d, and
49; to Glumff (15 M.) and MouliiUt see p. 201. .To Lfons by steamer (start-
ing; at Chalon, p. 195) on Tues., Thurs., & Sat. at 11.45 p. m.
Our line continues to descend the Saone valley, passing several
small stations. — 287 VsM. Belleville, a small town 1 M, to the left.
A branch-line runs hence to (8 U.) Beaujeu (B6t. de la Prifecture)^
a town of 3387 inhab., which lends its name to the surrounding district of
Benujoktis. Its formerly strong castle has almost entirely disappeared.
290V2 M. St. Oeorges. - 296 M. Villefranche-sar-SaMie (Hot. de
V E'UTope; de la Providence), a town of 13,627 inhab., on the Mor-
gon, 1 V4 M. to the W. of the Saone. The chief buildings are Notre-
Dame^des' Marais (14 -16th cent.) and the Renaissance Hotel de
Ville, In the Rue Nationale are numerous quaint old houses. —
298*/j M. Anse, a large market-town on the Azergues , was a Ro-
man station, with proconsular villas.
301 M. Tr^voux (Hotel de la Terrasse), an old town with 2662 in-
hab., finely situated on the left bank of the Saone and connected with
198 ///. Route m, SAINCAIZE From FofU
Lyons by a special railway (p. 240). Its name points to the three
Roman roads which converged here. The Emperor Septimias Se-
verus defeated his rival Albinas in 198 near Tr^voux. During the
18th cent, the town had a famous printing-press, from which issued
the editlo princeps of the Dictionnaire Universel known as the Die-
tionnaire de Tr^voux.
A public conyeyanee plies hence to (51/3 M. ) Art Onn), a village
with a handsome church built over the tomb of the former eur<$ Vianey
(d. 1858), which has become a pilgrim-resort.
The scenery improves as we approach Lyons. — Besides the fol-
lowing stations , there are a number of others stopped at by local
trains running between Lyons (Gare St. Paul and Gare de VaiBe) and
VlUefranche. 304V2 M. St. Qtrmain-au-Ucnt'd' Or (buffet), the
junction of the line from Paris, vii Roanne and Tarare (see R. 30c). —
306 M. MeuvUle'Sur-Saone, a considerable town on the left bank of
the Saone and on the Tr^vonz railway. — 307 */< M. Coupon , with
a striking modern church attached to an old tower. Fine retrospect.
From (310V2 M.) Collonges " Fontaines stbAmhoaiA and a steam-
tramway ply to Lyons. The left bank of the river is now bordered
by prettily wooded hills.
^313 M. Ile^Bctrbe, a favourite pleasure- resort of the people of
Lyons. Steamboat, see p. 239. On the right bank of the Sadne is
St. Raimhert, with a fine Romanesque church, almost entirely rebuilt
in recent years. Beyond two short tunnels the church of Fourviere
(p. 231) is seen on a hill to the lefL
315 M. Lyon-Vaite, the first of the Lyons stations (p. 227). —
Then passing through a tunnel, more than i^/^ M. long, and crossing
the Saone (fine view, on the left, of the oity), we arrive at (317 M.)
Lyons (Gare de Perrache, p. 227).
b. Vii Hever* and f aray-le-Xonial.
316 M. Railway in 13-l&i/s hrs. (fares 56 fr. 80, 88fr. 35e., 36 fr).
The (rains start from the Gare de Lyon. Gomp. p. 195.
From Paris to (157 M.) Keren [Buffet; Hotel de Paix, etc.), see
Baedeker*B Northern France. — Beyond Nevers we cross the Loire,
and, turning to the W., leave its valley for that of the Allier. Farther
on we cross the Canal Lateral, which has itself been carried over the
Allier by the Gu^tin aqueduct Beyond a tunnel we reach (163 M.)
Saineaiie (Buffet),
Fbom Saimcaisb to BoiiRQSi (Vierson, Toura, Orleans), dSVt M., rail-
way in l-ii/a hr. (fares 6 fr. 60, 4 fr. 45, 3 fr. 90 e). The line crosses the
Allier and then the Canal du Berry. — From (7 M.) La Guerehe (3450 iahab.)
lines run to (83i/s M.) 8i, Anumd and to (iSi/g M.) VUl^roncht-d'AUiMr,
diverging from each other at OVa M.) Saneain$. — Beyond (36Va M .) So'
vigny-en-Septaine the line erosses the Y^re three times. — ^/gM. Bourget^
see Baedeker''* Northern France.
2^73Vi M. St. Pierre-le- Moutier has an interesting church (12-
13th cent.). — 1857, M. Villeneuve-fur'AUier. The bed of the
Allier is very wide and, like that of the Loire, almost dry in summer.
to Lycm, MOCLITCS. ItL nimie 30. 199
I93V2 M. Xotains-snr-AUier (Buffet), — Hotels. Db Pasis, Rue
d€ Paris, R. 3»/j-3i/3 fr., B. dOe.-l fr., d^j. 3Vi, D- 3, pens. Ti/j, omn.
Va ^'f ]>D DAUPBiHt Place d'AlUer; dsl^AlIiIbb, same Place, R. d>5, B. 1,
dej. or D. 3 fr., omn. 90-50 e.
Moulins, a town with 22,215 inbab. and tbe capital of the depart-
ment of tbe Allier, is of no great antiquity, and was of importance
as capital of tbe Bourbonnais only from 1368 to 1527. In the latter
yearFrancis I. confiscated the dnchy in consequence of the treason
of the Constable Bourbon, who had entered tbe service of Charles V.
The Place de la Republique^ to the right of the station, is em-
l>eliisbed with a bronze statue of Theodore de BanviUe (1823-91),
the poet, by Coulon. A fine avenue of plan^e-trees, to the left, leads
to the centre of the town. Passing to the left of the Theatre, we
gain the Rue de la Fl^che, turn to the right, and reach the Towr
de VHorloge, a square belfry of '455, the upper part of which was
restored in the 17th century. Opposite is the Hdtel de Vitle, con-
taining a library of 28,500 vols., the chief treasure of which is
the Bible of Souvigny\ a splendid MS., dated 1115 and containing
122 miniatures (adm. daily, except holidays, 12-4).
The Cathedral, a little farther to the left , has its facade , em-
hellished with two fine towers , on the opposite side, in the Place
du Chateau. The nav6 is early-Gothic in style and was built from
the plans of Viollet-le-Duc ; the choir, which internally is loftier
than the nave, dates mainly from the latter half of the 15th cent*
and was originally the chapel of the ch&teau. It has been re-
stored since 1885.
In the Ikibbior the ehief pointe calling for notice are the fine 15- 16th
cent, glass i a Holy Sepulchre (Idth cent.), in the crypt hehind the high-
altar ; a tasteful winding staircase on tbe right of the choir; and & small
monument, representing a corpse devoured by worms, in tbe chapel in
front of the staircase just mentioned. The chief artistic treasure, how-
ever, is a *Triptych by Ohirlandajo^ in the sacristy, on the left of the choir.
This fine work, recently restored, represeats on the outside the Annun-
ciation (griaaiile) and on the inside the Virgin and Child surrounded by
angels, with the donors Pierre II de Bourbon (d. 1603) and hi« wife Anne
of Frsmce (d. 1622^ daughter of Louis XI.) attended by their patron-saints.
The Chdtenu of the Dukes of Bourbon stood opposite the cath-
edral, but the only portions left of it are a square tower (14tli cent.),
now used as a prison, and the buildings (of later date) of the Gen*
darmerie, to the right.
A little beyond, on the same side, are the Place de Paris and the
Rue de Paris, at the entrance of which stands the Palais de Justice,
formerly a Jesuit college. It contains an Archaeological Museum,
composed chiefly of local antiquities (open to the public twice a
month, but at all times to strangers).
A short distance from this pointy to the left, is the Lyc^e, ori-
ginally the Convent of the Visitation, in which, on applying to the
porter, visitors are shewn the * Mausoleum of Duke Henry II. of
Montmorency , beheaded for treason at Toulouse ia 1632. It was
erected by his widow, the Prineess des Ursins, who rests beside him.
*iOQ tlLRa^tem. SOUVIGHT. From Pcrif
The design is by Ffangois Anguier (d, 1669) y who alsp worked at
it as a BCulp4or, with Regnaudin and Thihaut PoissaDt
In the middle, on a black marble sarcophagus, is the white marble
statue of the Duke, in a reclining posture, with his wife seated by him
overcome with grief. The latter statue is a fine work. To the left,
Strength, symbolized by a figure of Hercules, and to the right, Charity.
The base , also of black and white marble , has four columns , between
which are three niches, the middle one containing an urn which two
angels are wreathing with flowers, the others with statues of War and
Religion. Above are a fine pediment and the Montmorency coat-of-anns.
The Eglise du Sacr^-Coeur, in the Place d'Allier, is a fine
modern building in the early-Gothic style, designed by Lassus;
and the church of St. Pierre, in the Rue Delorme, partly in the Gothic
style of the 15th cent., has some good modern stained glass.
The church of Tieure, or /Mure, IV4 M. to the E. of Moullns, is a
fine ediflee of the 13th cent., with an interesting erypt, good carvings,
and some no^ble frescoes and paintings.
Fbom Moulims to Mobtluv^oh (Limoges), 50 M., railway ia ^/r^U hrs.
(fares 9fr. 10, 6fr. lOc, 4fr.). — The line crosses the Allier and skirts
the town to the left. Farther on, to the right, appear the Chdteau dt
CharUUv and the ChdUau ds CAosta^fM, both of the ii»th century.
8V2 M. Souvignj (USi. du Lion i^'OVy small) is a little town oace famous
for its Gluniae Priory, of which some seciilar buildings, restored in the ITtb
cent., and the Church still remain. The latter, dating from the 11 -12th
cent., but altered in the 15Ui, is partly JLomanesque and partly Gothic.
The Towtrt of the facade, without spires, are Bomanesque, out the facade
itself is Gothic (15th cent.). The inierior^ 273 ft. lone, with a nave and
double aisles, is very striking. Along the vault (15tfa cent.) of the nave
runs a central rib eKteading to the £. end and richly «arved with fbliage.
The apse is a little out of line with the nave. To the left of the entrance
is a piece of a Romanesque column covered with ornament and sculptures
representing the months of the year, signs of the xodiac, fabulous animals,
tftc. On the wall is a sort of Rtr*do9y having two tiers of fine liomao-
esque arches, with elaborately sculptured coloneites and mutilated sta-
tuettes. To the right of the entrance are equally curious fragments of
sculpture. On the same side, just before the choir, is a stone cabinet of
the l5th cent, with coarse paintings on the doors. The OM Chmf€ly on tbe
same side, and the New Chapel on the left, with beautiful balustrades,
were added in the 14th and l&th centuries. The former contains the f^*"^
0/ Lauii II. ef BomrboHy the latter that of Charles /., with their respeetive
wives, splendid monuments with recumbent statues, unhappily mutilate<l
and disfigured by inappropriate inscriptions. The sacristy has sobm Aae
wainscoting of the time of Louis XIV. — By the side of this church still
stands the Old Parish Church, Romanesque in style.
Beyond Souvigny the train passes over a viaduct, 85 ft. in height. —
1411. Nnyanty te the left, with a 15th cent, castle. Beyond a tunnel tbe
scenery improves. The line enters another tunnel followed by rocky
cuttings. — Beyond (19 M.) Trongei the line descends rapidly througb a
district intersected by many valleys. — 36iA M. Chanenon, beyond wbieb
are the extensive ruins of the Chiuau de Murat (1S-14th cent.). — 39 M.
Vill^ramehe'€rAlUer^ the terminus of the line from La Qnerehe-SaneoiM via
Cosne-sur-riEll (see p. 201). — We soon ed»ter the ooal-baain of Commentr)-
— 36 M. Doyet'la-PresU, the junction for (3Va ^0 Bitenet (40B9 inhab.), with
important coal-mines, and (45 M.) rar««inet (p. 309). — 41 M. Commentrf.
For this town and tbe rest of the journey, see p. 341.
FaoM MouLivs TO BoDBaoM ' L*Aaciiaif BAQLT (Ootne-mikr'ViMtDt 1611.,
railway in 1-11/, hr. (fares 2 fr. 15, 1 fr. 45 c). — lOi/j M. SI. Meaoux pos-
sesses an interesting abbey-church of the ll-15th centuries. — 16 M. lew-
bon-rArehambault {Hit. de$ Bains; du Pare; ifomtespau; de Prance}., a town
of 3576 inhab., noted for its thermal mineral springa, the Aps0» Bart—i*
to Lifom. CLUNY. ///. Route 30. 201
of the BomMKi, \» commAnded by the extensive ruins of the e»stle (13-
15th eent.) of the Sires de Bourbon. The waters are efficacious in eases
of scrofula and chronic rheumatism. The environs are pleasant. — 8ou-
viffnp Cp- ^300) lies 8 M. to the S.E. of Bourbon., vi& AuHyy with its curious
13th eent. church , and only 41/2 IM. to the 8. of St. Menoux (p. 900). —
This railway proceeds via (SB M.) BrnxUrt-les-MiMt (8086 inhab.) to (8ft M.)
Oo*n€'sur-V(BU (HSb inhab.), junction for the line from La Guerche to
Villefranche-d'Allier (p. 198>.
The Lyons line now turns to the E. — 211 M. DompierreSept-
FonUj an industrial town with 3304 inhab., on the Bebre, 2 M. to
the N. £. of whieh is the abbey of Sept^Fonti (founded in 1 132), now
belonging to the Trappists. Branch-line to La Palisse, see p. 203.
— 216^/2 M. CHlly, junction of a line to Auierre via Cercy-la-
Tour (see Bciedteker'a Northern France), with marble quarries. —
Beyond (222Vt M.) St, Agnan we cross the Arroux and the Canal
du Centre. — 228 M. Digoin (Hotel de la Poste), an old industrial
tovn with 5869 inhab., on the Loire, at the mouth of the Canal
du Centre and the Canal Lateral. — The railway now leaver the
Loire, and skirts the Canal du Centre.
235 M. Par»y-le-1Ionial (Buffet; Hdtel de la Poste; Drago, for
pilgriois ; de Bourgogne, good and moderate), a town of 4088 inhab.,
inrhich takes the latter part of its name from an ancient Benedictine
monastery, and is still to some extent famous from the fact that one
of the nuns in the Convent of the Visitation here, Marie Alacoque
(d. 1690), brought into prominence the worship of the Sacred Heart
0/ Jesus. The Church is a fine building erected in the 12th cent.
by Cluniac monks ; the Mairie dates from the 16th century.
From Paray-lb-Monial to Hacoh^ 58 M.^ railway in 2^/4 hrs. (fares
8 fr. 75, 5 fr. 90, 3 fr. 86 c.). — iei/2 M. OharoUes (Buffgt; Lion d'Or), a very
aiieieiit town of 31!05 inhab., pretiily aitaated at the eonfluenee of the
Saone and Loire, an(l formerly capital of Charolais, onee belonged to
Burgundy, and from it Charles the Bold took his title of Count of Charo-
lais. — Farther on we ascend the valley of the Semence. — Several small
stations are passed.
341/sM. Clnay (Buffet; * Hdtel de Bourgogne; de VEtoile), a town of 4273
inhab., onee of worldwide repute on account of its great Benedictine abbey
founded in the 9th cent., which was at the height of its glory in the 12th.
It had some 2060 religious honaes dependent on it, and was the inlelleetual
capital of Europe until its wealth led to a relaxation of discipline and
the preeminence passed to the Cistercian order under St. Bernard. The
prodigrslity of the Cluniaes was especially shown in the superb churches
ivliich they bnilt. Unhapp&ly but little is left of their Abbey Churchy
which furnished the type. The other buildings of the abbey have to a
great extent been rebuilt and now contain an Ecole yormale and an Eeole
de (kmire • MaUre». The MboV* Palace ^ now converted into the HSiel de
ViUe and Muieum^ dates from the 15-16th centuries. The visitor should
also note Notre-Dcane^ of the 13th cent.; St. Marcel ^ which has a Roman-
esque steeple of the l!hh cent.*, some old houses; and remains of forti-
fications The Ckapei </ the Hotel Dieu contains two fine statues of the
early pa>rt of the 18th cent., Intended for the mausoleum of the Duke and
Duehess of Bouillon, which, however, has never been erected.
[From Ciuny a Railway runs to Roanne (53V2 ^'i i^^ 21/2-3 hrs. •, fares
9 fr. 65, 6 fr. 50, 4 fr. 25 c) via (6 M.) Clermain^ (26 M.) la ClayetU-Baudemont,
(33 M.) St. Maurice-Chdieauneuf, and several bther small stations. -^ 38 M.
Cbarlitu (Lion d* Or) , a town of 5369 inhab. , originated in an ancient
Benetdlatinft abbay, of w.l^ieb th« chief feature remaining is the very
*l(fl in. Uoute 30. LA CLAYBltTE. rrofn ParU
beautiful church-porch (lM3th cent.)- — At (Ml/j M.) Pouitly-toui-Charlieu
we join the line from Paray-le-Honial to Roanne (see below).]
Returning for a short distance by the same line, we ascend to the
left, pass through a tunnel nearly 1 M. long, and, after a view of the
old fortress oi Btrziy also on the left, reach (83 H.) St. Sorlim-MiUy (buffet).
Milly, 1/2 H. to the right, was the home of Lamartine-(d. 1869). — 6811.
Mdcony see p. 196.
Fbom Pabat • lb - Hokial to BoAKiiB, 38 M., railway in 13/4hr. (fares
6 fr. 70, 4 fr. 56, 3 fr. 95 c). — This line , the continuation of that from
Ghagny (see Baedeker^s Northern France)^ turns to the S. into the valley of
the Loir4y ou the left bank of which is the Roanme and Digoin GaiMA. 15V2 ^'
Marcigny (2578 inhab.). At (36V2 M.) PimiU^'tWi-CharUeu we join the line
from Cluny to Roanne (see above). Beyond (SSl/^ M.) L* Coteau we cross
the Loire. — 38 M. Roanne^ see p. 903.
The line beyond Paray-le-Monial, opened in 1900, intersects
the S.E. portion of the Central C^vennes, traversing numerous tun-
nels and viaducts and opening up some beautiful scenery. — Beyond
(240 V2 M.) Lugny 'les' Charolles, with its 16th cent, chtteau, the
Arconce is crossed. — 243 V2 M. St. JuHen-Changy ; 246 M. Dyo.
253 M. LaClayette (pron. 'elate'; Hot, du Nord)^ a picturesquely
situated little town, with a ch&teau and a lake, is the junction for
the Cluny and Roanne line (see above). - Soon after passing (257 M.)
Mu88y-sou8- Dun we cross the great Viaduc de Musty (600 yds.
long and 200ft. high), and heyond (259 M.) C^iaw^aiMcs (4888 Inhah.)
and (262^/2 M.) Belleroche- Belmont we pass below the Col dea Echar-
meaux (2355 ft.), hy means of the tunnel of that name (2^/4 M.), which
is the longest in France except one (p. 429). — From (266V«M.)
Poule the line descends into the populous industrial valley of the
Azerguet^ crossing five viaducts and descrihing a spiral curve (Bouc/«
de ClaveisoUes) by means of which it descends 140 ft. in less than
3 M. Beyond (272 M.) ClaveiaoUes the foot of the descent is reached
after a tunnel, 1 M. in length.
2?6 M. Lamare-sur-Azergnies (Hot. Chaumont) is situated in t
wooded valley. t:>everal small stations are passed, including (281 Vt'^>'
Chamelet and (291 M.) Cheasy, each with a chateau. — 292 M. Chd-
tillon^ d* Azerguea also has a ruined medittval ch4teau, with a flnt
double chapel, dating partly from the 12th century.
At (294 Va M.) Lozanne we join the line firom Paris vii Roanne
(p. 204). — 297 M. Chazay-MarcUly; 3OOV2 M. Lea Ckhe^-Chaaael.
— At (306 M.) St. Qermain-au-Mont-d'Or (small buffet) we join
the line from Paris vi& Dijon (p. 198). — 315 M. Lyon$ (p. 227).
c. yi4 Herert and Boanne.
315 H. Railway in 138/4-13Vs brs. (fares as in R. dOb). The through
service to Lyons has been discontinued since the opening of the preceding
route *, the express-trains from Paris now go on from Roanne to St. Etienne
(R. 31).
From Paris to (193V2 M.) Moulina, see pp. 198, 199. — Beyond
Moulins this line continues to ascend the valley of the Allier, passing
(203 M.) Beaaay and (207 M.) La Fertd-HauteHve, with its large
to Lyon». ROANN£. ///. RouU 30, !203
modem oh&tean farther on^ to the left. — 212 V2 M. VareWMS-mr-
Allier (hotels).
From Vabbitmbs to Ck>ifKB»TitT, 49 M., railway In S^/rAhra. (fkres
6fr. 45, 4 fr. 40 c). >- 6 M. iSV. PiyurftUn-sur-Sioule^ an ancient town with
500O iohab. and an interesting ehureh. — At (18 M.) Ohantelle is a ruined
eutle of the Dukes of Bourbon., dismantled by Francis I. in 1627., after
the treason of the Constable Bourbon (p. 210). Adjoining is a Romanesque
church, with cloisters of the Uth and 15th centuries. A branch-line runs
hence to (Tl/a M.) St. Bonnei-de-Roehefort (Ebreuil \ p. 241). — The line
ueends the pretty valley of the Bwble. 34 M. Montmarault. 41 M. Biztnei^
and theAee to (49 M.) Gomvuniry^ see p. 200.
21678 M. Orechy. Farther on, to the left, is BiUy, with the pic-
turesque ruins of its feudal castle, a favooiite excursion from Vichy.
220 M. St. eemain-AM-Fouto (835 ft.; Buffet; Hot. du Pare),
where the lines to Clermont-Ferrand (p. 210) and Viohy (R. 31)
diverge to the right The former priory church of Ht. Germain,
above the village, probably dates from the 11th century.
The Lyons line bends to the left towards the valley of the Beshre,
passing through a pretty, undulating country. 224 M. St. O^and^U-
Puy. - 231 M. La Paiisae (Ecu de France), a town with 2941 inhab.,
iViM. to the left, with a castle of the 15 -16th centuries (branch-
line to Dompierre, 27 M. in 2 hrs.; see p. 201). — Beyond (235 M.)
^ffmiUes the Montagnea de la Madeleine appear on the right.
~ 241 M. St, Martinr-d' Estreaux.
An OuiiBua (U/g fr.) pliea benee in anininer to (31/2 M.) SaU-lea-Baims
f^M de VEtablissement)^ the mineral waters of which, believed to be the
<Q08t highly charged with silicate in existence, are efficacious in infec-
tious diseases and in skin affections.
247 M. La Paenudiire, — %3Vi M. St. Oermain-V Espinasse.
St. Germain lies IV4 U. to the E. About I3/4 M. to the N. W. is
Ambierle (Bdt. D<Meri»)^ a picturesquely situated town with a handsome
Benedictine Church (IStfa cent.), which has twelve windows with ancient
stained glass, and an altar-piece, presented in 1466, attributed to Bogier
van der Weyden.
261 Vj M. Boanne {Buffet; Hotel du Nord, Rue de la Sous-
Prefecture; du Commerce f Place du March^), an industrial town of
^,568 inhab. with important spinning- mills and cotton-factories,
•^n the left bank of the Loire. The modern Hotel de Ville contains
Ismail Mus^e, open on Sun. & Thurs. (10-12 and 2-4). The prin-
•^^ipal church is that of St. Etienne (13 -Uth cent.).
About 8 M. to the W. (omnibus, 1 fr.) is St. Alban iH6t. St. Louis, etc.),
'' village with cold mineral springs (aerated chalybeate), long famous as
'able -waters. There is a well- managed Eatabmhment and a CMino. A
variety of excursions may be made in the Moots de la Madeleine, which
•command fine views of the Loire valley.
From Boanne to Fanxy-le-Monial^ MOnithcutiUy and OAo^n^, iee p. !303.
Passing to the right of Roanne, the line crosses the Loire at a point
where the bed of the river has been changed. — 263 M. Le Coteau,
a suburb of Roanne, whence the line to St. Eticnife (R. 31) diverges
to the right and that to Paray - le - Monial to the left. The Tftrare
line ascends the valley of the Rhins, whioh it crosses several times.
^ Beyond (267 M.) L'Hdpital are four short tunn^s. 271 VjM.
204 III. Bmte 30, TARARS.
Btgny, va anoient vilUge on the Rhins, wkich had a Oluniac ^iory»
Fine modern church and some remains of fortifications. Then
hetween two tunnels , to the left, the pencil manufactory founded
hy the celebrated Cont^. — 275 M. S*. Victor-Thizy.
Branch-lines run hence to (41/3 H.) Thisy (ffSt. du iflcfO, a town with
4892 inhab. , picturesquely situated to the N.E.., and to (81/2 M. ) Oenrt
(Potte)^ a cloth-manufacturing town^ with 5756 inhabitants.
The engineering difficulties of the line increase and the country
becomes more broken as we approach the mountains of Lyonnais.
Beyond two more tunnels is (278 Vt M.) AmplepuU (Hdt. du Centre;
du Commerce) , with 6960 inhab., and cotton and muslin manufac-
tories. The line now makes a considerable ascent, passes through
a tunnel IV4 M. long, and rapidly desoeodji into the basin of the
Rhone. The scenery is picturesque and a good view of Tarare is ob-
tained , to the left. Another tunnel, Vt ^* long , is passed through.
287 1/2 M. lorare (Buffet} Hdtel de VEurt^pe), a modern in-
dustrial town of 12,028 inhab., in the narrow yalley of the Turdine,
surrounded by mountains. It is an important centre for the manu-
facture of plain and embroidered muslins, and of silk plush for hats.
297 V2^* J'tA.rhreiLe (Qrand-Udtel), an ancient town, with 3577
inhab. , and the remains of a fortress , of which the keep has been
restored. Branch-line to Montrond, see below. — At (301 M.) Ijo-
zanne we join the line from Paris via Paray-le-Monial (p. '202). —
3i2Vt M. Lyons'Vaise, 315 M. Lyom-Pertache, see p. 227.
31. From Faria to St
a. VIA BoaiuiA.
310 M. Railway in IO-I93/4 hrs. (fares 56 ft*. 10» 87 fr. 90, 94 fr. 75 e.».
To (261 V2 M.) Roannt, see p. 203. The Lyons line \a quitted
beyond (262 M.) Lt Coteau. The country becomes very broken,
and the line passes through numerous tunnels. Near (274Vt ^-^
St. Jodard we reach the banks of the Loire, the bed of which is here
shut in between the hills of the Forez, which extend as far as Roanne.
— Beyond (281 M.) Balbigny the valley expands to the right, 011
which side it is sprinkled with pools and still bordered by the
Forez mountains, dominated to the S.W. by the PUrrc-sur- Haute
(6370ft.). — 287 M. Fturs (Poste), a town with 3719 inhab., wa»
formerly the capital of the Forez. A diligence plies hence to (9Vt M.)
PanissiereSf to the N.E.
294 M. Xontroad (Or. Hot. du Fore%; MaUure), with the im-
posing ruins of a castle of the 14-16th cent, oTerlooliing the Loire.
The Sourte du Oey»er, a mineral spring of considerable value,
supplies the thermal establishment. — Lines to Montbrison (p. 246)
and to L'Arbresle (see above).
299 M. St. Oalmier (mt. Laataunery; PoUe), a town of 3296
inhab., 2Vs M. (omn. 45 c) to the left, is celebrated for its mineral
WTTnTrw^iimr
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I Ji
VICHY
1:9,000
Metres
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-VT-' 1
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'rr%
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Sources.
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6T
nOHY. UL Route 9h 205
waters, which are targely exported. The Okureh (15' 17th eent.)
contaiiva a remarkable tabernacle of the 16th cent. , and a painted
altar. A diligence plies hence to Bellegarde (p. 240).
302 M. La Benardih'e, — At (302Vt M.) St. Just - $ur " Loire
we join the line from Clermont-Ferrand (p. 214).
Fbok St. J^u8t-8UB-Loir« to Fibhikt (Annonap)^ 12 M. , railway in
3/4-1 iir. (fares 9fr. 15, 1 fo. 46, 96 c). — The line ascends the valley of
the Loire, with nuoifarous viadaets and tunnels. — 3i/s M. 3t. Ju$t-St-
Ramberty tiie station for the littlt town of St. B*inWrt-4nur'Loire , whieh
^as remains of forUfioajtionB. — IOL/2M. FraiUu-UnieitXy also on the line
from Le Pay to ftt. Stienne (S. 37). — 13 M. Firminy (p. 350).
305 M. La F<millou»e; 307 M. Villars. We are now entering
the scene pf a busy and varied industry, fostered by one of the chief
coal-fields in France. Goal* mines and factories become more and
more numerous; lorfty chimneys rise in all directions and the district
is blackened by smoke. — SOSVt M. La Terra«s«, a suburban station
of St. Etienne. The line skirts t^ National Arms Factory to.the right.
310 M. at. Stlenne, see p. 244.
b. Vli Viohy, Tkiem , and Xoiatbrii^xi.
3101/3 M. Railway In 15hr8. by the only train with throingh-eonneetions.
The fares are approximately the same as by the preceding ronte, but
no throng^h - tickets are issued. — From Paris to Viehy , 393 M. , in 61/3-
131/3 hrs. (fares 40 fr. 85, 37 fr. 60 c., 18 fr.). — From Vichy to (331/3 M.)
Thiers^ in 18/4-3 hrs. (fares 4 fr. 70, 3 fr. 60, 2 fr. 36 c). — From Thiers to
(40i/j M.) Mofrtbriton, in 3- 21/4 hrs. (7 ir. 40, 5 fr. , 8 fr. 25 e.). — From
Montbriaon to (3O1/3 M.) St. Btienne, in I-II/3 hr. (8 fr. 80, 2 fr. 56, 1 fr. 70 c).
To (220 M.) St. Germain'de8-Fos8e\ see p. 203. — The Vichy
line continues to follow the valley of the AUier. To the right (fine
view) diverges the line to Clermont-Ferrand (R. 32). — 232 M. Vichy.
Vichy. — Hotel-omnibuses (3 fr. or less) meet the trains. Railway-
omnibus, 30 e. by day^ 60 e. by night. Cabs, see p. 306.
Hotels. In the Rue Gunin-Oridaine (PI. C, 2-4), on the £. side of the
Park, beginning at the Etablissement Thermal: Gkand-Hotsl Das Bains
(PI. a); NouTBL Hotbl (PI. b), R. 5-10, B. 11/8-2, d^j. 4, D. 8, pens. 13-30 fr. ;
Hot. db iy''AHiaAUTB (PI. c)? Vbiat bt dbs Akolais (PI. d); Royai. (PI. e);
MouBKUv BT Du Gasiho, uuitcd (PI. c, f), pens. 10-20 fr. per day '-, Bomket
ET DB LA Rbstauratiov (Pi. g). — In the Rue du Pare (PI. B.. 3, 4), on
the other side of the Park, l^ginning at the Casino; Q-ravd-Hotbl dbs
AMBAasADBOBs BT CoiiTiNBHTAx (PI. h). Open all the year round, R. 6-12,
B. 3, d^j. 4, D. 6, pens. 121/9-301/2, omn. 1 fr. (trunk 60 c.) ; dbs T^kriibs
(PI. i), R. from 41/3, B. H/o, d^j. 4, D. 5, pens. III/2-I6V2. omn. 2 fr.^ de
Chbbbouro (PI. j), pens. d*X) fr. \ dbs Privoes bt db la Paix (PI. k, 1),
10-15 fr. ; DU Parc bt Gramd-Hotbl (Pl. m). — Richelieu (PI. n-, B,2), Rue
de TEtablissement. — Britauniqub (PI. o ; C, 2), de la Source Lucas (PI. p;
C, ^, both in the Rne Lucas; 6r. Hdr. Maushakt bt db Madrid (PI. q;
C,^, in the Rue de Ballore. — In the Rue de Paris (Pi. P, 3): to the ri|ht
&8 we go to the station. Hot. du Louvrb bt de Reims (PI. r); Gr. Hot.
DE L*TJk1VER8 (PI. S), DUBESSAY (PI. t), DU RHONB (PI. u), DE LA COUROUME
(Pl.v), DU Bbaujolais (Pl.w); to the left, H5t. db la Suissb (PI. jc), de
Robb (Pl-y; pena. from 7 fr.). — Rue de Nimes (PI. G, 3-5): Hot. de
I'A I«oiRE (PI. z), second-class-, Mot. djs Nice (P.1. bb), near the church of
St. Louis, R. 3-6, B. 1, d^j. 3, D. 4, pens, from 71/2 fr.; db l*Europb
(PI. ee), D^OBLiAVs (PI. dd), db Milan (PI. ee), du Rsobht, not far from
206 ///. Route 3L VICHY. From Vans
the Park, Hot. du Palais (PL ii\ db Gbkcvb (PI. ff), R. 84. B. i, d^j.
31/9, D. 3L/s, pens. 7-9, omn. Va fi*- ~ Hot. MoliIikb (PI. gg;B,4h Rue du
Casino, well situated, R. 3-6V2i B- ^^U-> d^j- 3, D. 4, pens. 8-12l/a, omn.
Va fr- — Place and Boulevard de I'Hdtel-de-Ville (PI. B, 4, 5), also well
situated: Hot. db Lobdbbs (PI. kk), db Sbyillb (PI. jj), db Rivoli (PI. 11;
open all the year rounds .7-9 fr.), all of the seeond class. — Near the
Source de THopital (Pi. B , 5): Hot. db Russib (PI. mm), db l^Uvion
(meubl^; PI. nn)-, Gb. HdT. du Gbntbb (PI. pp); Hot. db la Pobtb db
Fravob (PI. 00). — In the Place de la Marine (PI. B, 5): Bbau-Site
(PI. rr; 7-9 fr.); des Chabmillbs (PI. ii). — In the Boal. National (PI.
B, 6): H6t. du Pavillon-SAvion*, 12-30 fr.; Bbllb-Vub (PI. ss). — Gb.
Hot. du Palais -Botal (Pl.tt), dbs C:i6lbstiii8 (Pl.uu), two seeond-elass
houses in a quiet street behind the Pare des Gelestins ^l.C, 5). — Behind
the Church of St. Louis (PL C, 4) : Gr. Hot. db Bbllbcoub, 8-10 fr. \ Gs.
Hot. db BADe et Notrb-Damb. — In the Rue de Paris, nearer the station
(PLD,3): Cotb d'Or, de Castillb, db Brest, Bbavparlaiit,'db la Poste,
DU Globe, unpretending but good. — There are also a great number of
furnished houses and smaller hotels, especially in Old Vichy. Living
is not so dear at Vichy as one might expect considering the reputation
of the place. There are, at any rate, hotels to suit every purse.
CafM* La Rettauration^ also restaurant, in the Park, to the left of the
Casino ; Oa/i de VEden^ see below ; OrcMd Cafi de la PerU, (ktfi Richty Grand
Cafi^ Aleatory Rue de Kimes^ Grand Gafi Nevfy Square deTHotel-de-
Ville.
Cabs. From the station to the hotels, with or without luggage by day
(6 a. m.'to 8 p. m.), with 1 horse IVa^ with 2 horses 21/2 fr., by night 1 fr.
extra; same tariff from the station to lodgings. — ■ Per drive, by day. WU
and 2 fr. -, night, 2 and 3 fr. Per hour, by day, 3 and 4 fr. ; night, 4 and
6fr.
Ezeursion Cars. Offices in the Place de la Croix-de-Mission (PL G, 4; ce)
and Place Rosalie (PI. B, 6)j comp. p. 209. — Tramway to (3u«set, see p- 209.
Post and Telegraph OfBoe (PL A, 4), near the Hdtel de Ville.
Thermal Xstablishjnent, open all the year (see p. 207). The mineral
water drunk on the spot is gratis; sent to a special address, 30 e. per
litre. For the Bath» visitors enter their names at the office, in the Grande
Gallerie of the ist elas^. Tariff: baths or donehes de luxe, 5fr. ; mineral
baths, Ist el., 2 fr. 50 c.; 2nd cL, 1 fr. 50 e.-, SrdcL, 60 c.; bath in the
common basin, 2 fr., etc., according to tariff posted up in the Establish-
ment. The season reaches its height in July and August.
Physioians. A complete list of consulting physicians is posted up in the
galleries of the Establishment, with their addresses.
Casino (see p. 206), admission 2 fr. per day, 35 fr. per month. The
subscription admits to all rooms except the theatre, and includes the use
of chairs In the promenade and the public parks. Admission to the
Theatre , with numbered stall , 4 fr. ; to (Casino and Theatre , 5 fr. ; sub-
scription for both, 60 fr. An introduction is requisite.
Olabs. Cerde International (PL G, 3), Rue Somin ; admission granted only
to members of existing clubs, or on presentation. CercU dtt Stranger*,
Rue Gridaine, of a similar description. — Eden TKeatr*^ behind the Nouvel
Hotel (3 and 2 fr.).
English Church Serrice in summer (June-Sept.).
Vichy (860 ft.) is a town af 12,330 iubab., prettily situated o»
the right bank of the Alli&r, and enjoying a healthy and temperate
climate. It is the principal watering-place of France and perhaps of
Europe, for the number of visitors is nearly 70,000 annually. Ex-
cept its old quarter , which dates from the middle ages , the town
is entirely modern. Its waters, though well known to the Romans,
who named the town Vicus Calidus, came into favour only towards
the end of the 17th cent. , when Madame de S^vign^ made them
ta St, KHenne. VICHY. ///. Mouie 3h 207
knowDr at the court of LouiB XIV, ; »nd they did not become really
fashionable until the Second Empire. The place is much indebted
for its prosperity to the admirably managed Thermal Establishment,
which ifl the property of the State and is leased by a company. The
waters are chiefly used for drinking , and about 14,000,000 bottles
are exported annually^ and yet such is the influx of strangers at the
height of the season that the company is prepared to provide 3500
baths a day.
The 1-ong Rue de Paris leads from the station to the centre of
the new town. Thence the Rue Lucas continues in almost the same
direction, passing between the Military HospUalj on the right, and
the Sources Lucas and PrtmelUf on the left, the former used chiefly
for baths, the latter private property. ~ Farther on the Rue Cunin-
Gridaine diverges to the left, skirting the Thermal Establishment
and the Park and containing many of the chief hotels.
The Thermal Ettablishment (PI. B, 2, 3), now undergoing partial
reconstruction , consists mainly of a vast structure with an arcade
of round arched of massive design built in 1820, to which a yet
larger annexe, on the W. side, was added in 1853. The first block,
in which are the offices, is reserved for baths of the 1st class. Here
too, are several of the principal springs: tJie Puits Chtnnel (113**
Fahr.) at the end of the gallery as we come from the Park, where
the water is raised by a pump; the Grande Orille (111° Fahr.), the
most celebrated of the Vichy springs, the water of which bubbles up
naturally at the E. end of the cross-gallery at the back of the build-
ing; the Soutrce Mesdames (59** Fahr.), at the other end, brought
hither from the Cusset road ; and the Puits Carre (113° Fahr.), the
most abundant spring (55,000 gallons per day), which is in the base-
ment. The total daily supply from all the springs is about 64,000
gallons. The water of the Puits Chomel is especially effective in
maladies of the digestive organs ; that of the Grande Grille for liver-
complsints and hepatic affections ; that of the Source Mesdames
for chlorosis and other female diseases ; while that of the Puits Carr^
is used solely to supply the baths. For the other springs, see below.
— To the right of the Thermal Establishment is the PastUlerie (visi*
tors admitted), in which are produced the salts, pastilles, and barley-
sugar of Vichy.
The Park (P1.B,C,3,4), between the Thermal Establishment
and the Casino, is a promenade shaded by fine trees, planted in the
time of Napoleon I. It is the centre of Vichy , and the rendezvous
of the visitors during the Concerts (8.30 to 9.30 a. m., and 2.30 to
3.30 p. m.>. It is still more frequented in the evening. On the right
as we come from the Etablissement is the Source du Pare (71.6°
Fahr.), which is little used, though in certain cases it is to be pre-
ferred to the Sources de I'Hdpital and des C^lestins (p. 208). —
Farther on, to the right of the Casino, is the Concert Enclosure; to
the left a band'-pavilion and the Caf^ 'La Regtauration* (p. 206).
208 ///. Btmte 3L TICHT. Ne« Pafk.
The Casino (PL B, 4) is a fine building in the style of the Re-
naissance, now being enlarged. The facade, in front of which is
a small garden, fonns a verandah in the middle, and on each side
a pavilien, with a large window between two colossal caryatides,
and a circular pediment. The caryatides, representing the Seasons,
are by Garrier-Belleuse. On the back of the buiMing is a colossal
high-relief, by the same artist, representing *The Springs of Vichy'.
Within are to be found all the means of recreation usual in estab-
lishments of this kind, including a theatre. The GasLio is open
f^om May 1st to Sept. 15th, but the real season lasts only from
July 1st to Sept. 30th. Admission, see p. 206.
To the right of the Casino , beyond the Park , is the HoUl tU
Ville (PI. A, 4) , a small plain building with a pretty fountain in
front of it. At the side are the Poit and Telegraph Of/iees. Behind
the Casino and on the left side are large JSasoars. — The Passage
du Pare leads to the Place BoealU (P1.B,5), in which is the Source
de VHdjdtal (88° Fahr.), similar in character to the Grande Grille.
The water is chiefly used for gastric disorders. It has a separate
bathing establishment in the Place,
The Rue du Pont, whidi descends from this spring towards the
Allier, crosses the How Park, a splendid promenade formed since
1861 by the construction of an embankment , nearly a mile long,
protecting land which the AUier used often to overflow. It extends
almost the whole length of the town by the river-bank , and has an
axea of nearly 30 acres. There is a fine view of the valley and the
eminences on the opposite bank. The bridge dates from 1866.
Lower down the stream is a weir.
Old Vichy , skirted by this park on the left side of the Rue du
Pont, has little or nothing to interest the visitor. The 2Vmr de
VHorloge is a relic of a 15th cent, ohateau. In the lower part of Old
Vichy are the private Baini Larhaud (P1.B,5), with a gratuitous
drinking- room } and a little higher up is the Pavilion de Mrif/mc,
so named from its having been in 1676 the reeidenee of Madame 4«
S^vign^., who then spent a season at Vichy, and speaks of it in her
letters. The latter has been restored and is now a hotel (p. 206).
Farther on are the Sourcet de$ Celeitine (PI. C, 6), aameA after a
convent of Celestines which existed here down to the 18th century.
They are thr^e in number (55* Fahr.) : the Source de ia Giotta,
the Old Source farther away and scanty, and the New Souroo. the
most frequented. Their waters are pleasant to drink, but must, it
is said, be used with caution. They are efficacious in cases of gout,
gravel, and diabetes. Above the springs is a pretty park, whioh, on
the other side, communicates with the Rue de NinMS.
The Boulevard National joins, at the end of the New Park, the
Avenue des C^lestins, which skirts the town, passing in front of
the private establishment of the Baine Lardy (PI. D, 6) and thenoe
we re-enter the town by the Rue de Nfmes. In this strfot, immI far
i
ExeurHons, VICHY. ///. BouU 31. 209
from the GtBino, is the modern KomanMque Chtwch of St. Louis
(PI. G, 4), decorated inside with polychrome paintings.
Szeoraions. — To Cussbt, IS/4 M. to the K., tramway (20 e.) firom the
Church of St. Louis (PI. C,4) via the railway-station*, also omnibus, gratis
for bathers at the Etablissement Ste. Marie. An alternative route leads by
the Aiy^ de* Dawie$^ a pleasant promenade skirting the jSUcAmi, a small
tributary of the AUier, and reached by the Rue de Ballore. CuMet (H^Hel
du Globe; de VEtoUe) is a small and ancient town (6441 inhab.), with its
own Bath Ettablishment^ having two cold springs. — About 21/2 M. farther
on^ to the left, is the Mestauramt dei MalavauXy in the Jolan valley.
To VHB Aadoisibkb, a eontinuatlon of the preceding route, 7 M. from
Vichy; one-horse carriage 10 fr., two-horse 15 fr. there and back , includ-
ing halt of 1 hr. About IV4 H. from Cusset, in the valley of the Sichon,
is the village of Lei Orwats; IS/4 M. farther on, in a picturesque gorge,
is the fi'otfr SemanU a pretty little cascade, and 1 >/4 M. beyond it Ilea the
ArdoiHh'e (slate-quarry ^ adm. 50 c), which, however, is less interesting
than the road to it. There is an expensive restaurant (dej. 5, D. 6 fr.).
To THB Ghatbau db Bodrboh-Bossbt, a continuation of the preceding
route, 8 M. from Vichy. There is also a road vi& Si. Yorre (see below),
bat it is to be preferred for the return, unless we go by train (see below)
from Vichy to St. Yorre and walk thence (21/3 M.). One-horse carriage 15 or
16 fr. , two - horse 20 or 22 fr.. according to the route chosen \ excursion-
ear daily (office, p. 206) at 11.45 a. m., 31/2 fr. An ascent of little more
than a mile from the Ardoisi^re brings us to the plateau on which stands
the Chateau de Bonrbon-BuMet , with the large village of Bustet. This
chateau (visitors admitted) beeame in the 18th eeni. the property of
a branch of the Bourbon family, but the building dates from the 14th
eentury. It is a very remarkable feudal eastle, entered by a drawbridge
between two large modem round towers. The block in the rear, the
only old part, though restored in the 19th cent., presents a severe but
picturesque appearance, with its massive machicolated tower. On this
side is a terrace commanding a superb *View of the valley of the Allier,
the Limagne, the Honts Dome and the Monts Dore, as well as of the
Forez group. To the left of the court is a small chapel, rebuilt in the
style of the 13th eentury. Some of the rooms have been judiciously re-
stored in the original style. -— In returning by C2Va M.) St. Yorre we
obtain splendid views of the valley of the Allier and the mountidns.
To THB Springs op Vbssb abd Hautbbivg. The former is an inter-
mittent spring near the village of that name, about I M. from Vichy, on
the left bank of the Allier. The hours at which it flows are posted up
at the Thermal Establishment (adm., 50 and 25 c). — Huuterive^ 21/2 M.
farther on (carriage 7 or 10 fr.), possesses, within a fine park, one of the
chief mineral springs worked by the Company. The water, of the same
character as that of Les Celestins (p. 208), is used only for exportation.
To thbOhatba.!; db Bakdam, 10 M., via the BoU de Randan. One-horse
carriage 15 fr., two -horse 20 fr^ with return via Maulmont (see below)
18 and 24 fr. ; excursion-car (p. 206) on Sun. and Th'ir s.at 11.45 a. m. (fare
^Va fr.). The Oh&teau de Randan, originally dating ftrom the 16th cent.,
was entirely rebuilt in 1822 by Mme. Adelaide d'Orloans, aister of Louis
Philippe, and now belongs to the Comtesse de Paris. The park only is
open to visitors on Sun. and Thurs., from 1 to 6 p. m. The return is
usually made by the hunting - lodge of Mavlmont (o M.), also a modem
edifice. Thence we may either proceed by Hauterive (see above), or,
better, cross the Allier by the Pont de Bis (IS/4 M. ; see p. 310).
The C6te St. Amand, 21/a H. to the S.E. of Vichy, on the left of the
road to Thiers, and the Montagne Verte, 21/2 ^- ^o ^he N., are especially
visited foi the sake of the views, similar to that from Bueset (carr. 7 or
10 fir.). — The ruins of the CMieau de BiUff are also visited^ they are
21/8 M. from the station of St. Germain -des- Fosse's (p. 903).
Baedeker. Southern France. 4th Edit. 1^
210 ///. Route 32. RIOM. From Severs
Tbe railway now follows the right bank of the AUier , passing
on the left the municipal hospital of Vichy. — 232 M. St. Torre
(Hdtel Oay) has several cold mineral springs, in a fine park to the
right of the line a little before the station. The water is used only
for drinking purposes. Excursion to the Chateau of Bourbon-Busset,
which is seen on the left, see p. 209.
236 V2 M. Ris-Chdteldon. Bis, IV4 M. to the E., near the con-
fluence of the Allier and the Dore, has a fine suspension bridge
over the Allier (to Randan, see p. 209). Chdteldon (two hotels), 3 M.
to the S.E. (omn.), at the foot of rocky heights , is an ancient town
of 2074 inhab., with many picturesque houses of the 15th cent, and
an old castle. It has also springs of mineral water, which is used
for exportation only.
To the right of the Dore, which the line now skirts , are the
Monts Dome (p. 218). — 240 M. Puy-Ouillaume; 244V2 M. Noalhat,
At (250 M.) Courty (buvette) our line joins that ft*om Clermont-
Ferrand to Thiers and St. Etienne, see p. 213.
32. From Nevers (Paris) to Le Pny.
a. yi& Clermont-Ferrand.
194 H. Railway in 6V3 hrs. (fares 18 fr. 80, 12 tr, 75, 8 fr. 25 c).
From Paris to Clermont-Ferrand, 361 H., Railway in 8V2~l^brs. (fares
47 fr. 15, 31 fr. 85, 20 fr. 30 e.).
To (63M.) S^-Gcfm/Tin-dM-J'oaaM, seepp. 198, 203. — The
railway turns to the W. and crosses the Allier. Beyond (66 Vt M.»
St. Remy the line steadily ascends, affording a fine view of the basin
of the Allier and the mountains of the Forez (p. 204), bounding the
horizon to the left. The Monts Dome are also in view (pp. 218.
219). — 74 M. Monteignet-EscuroUea.
IV 1 2 M. Chmnat (Hot. de la Poste; Caf/- Hdtel, near the sta-
tion), a town of 5676 inhab., on the Andelot, with two interesting
churches of the 11th and 13tb centuries. Line to Montlu^on and
Bordeaux, see R. 36. — We next traverse the Limagne, a fertile
plain of the Basse -Auvergne, covering an area of about 90 sq. M..
watered by the Allier and bounded by the Monts Dome on the M\
and the Forez range on the £.
84 V2 M. Aignepene (Hdt, dea Commerfants), a town of 2325
inhab., with a fine Gothic church of the 13-15th cent., lately restored.
It possesses a St. Sebastian by A. Mantegna, a Nativity by Ben. Gbir-
landajo, and some good carving. — 90M. Pontmort. To the right is
the Chalne des Puys, dominated by the Puy de D6me (p. 219).
95 M. Siom (Or. Hdt. Place- Desaix; du Louvre et du Palais)^ a
town of 11,131 inhab., long the capital of Auvergne, is well built «f
dark stone or Volvic lava. The chief churches are St. Amahle (12th
and 18th cent.); Notre- Dame- du-Marthuret (15th cent.), with a
to Le Buy. OOUBES. IJL R<mte 02. 211
line statue of the Virgin above the door; and *Ste. Chapelle (14-15th
cent.), with beautlfal stained - glass windows of the 15th century.
There is a Museum with 200 pictures , a large Prison of the 17th
cent., and some ancient houses of the 15th and 16th cent., including
the Hdtel des Consuls, opposite the Hotel de Ville.
The ehurch of MozaCy 1 M. to the W., contains two valuable reliquaries
of the i2th and i6th cent, respeetively.
About 3 M. to the 1?.W. (omnibus twiee a day in 3/^ hr. , 75 e.) Is
Chatelguyon (Splendid HdM; Orand-HdUl des Bains; BartMlemp)^ a village
of about 1600 inhab., noted for its mineral spring*, with two EstabUshmenis
and a Casino. The church contains a gilded altar-piece (18th cent.) \ and there
is another of the same kind in the church of the neighbouring village of
8t. Bonnet. — The church of Tssae-k$- Tourette toniAins two alabaster altar-
panels in the Qothie style (iSth or Uth eent.)i attributed to Flemish artists.
Public conveyances also leave Biom four times a day in the season
(4 fr.) for (i7i/a M. to the N.W.) GhateaunouMes-Baina (H6t. des Grands
Bains; St. Gyr ; Chatard; Petit Rochtr ; La Rotonde)^ on the Sioule, also with
mineral springs. The 13th cent. Chdt«au contains various collections.
A Bhahoh Railwat runs from Riom to (5 M.) Yeivie (1540 ft. \ H6t. du
Commeree)^ at the foot of the Puy de la BanniirSt with a considerable trade
in lava-stone. About 1 M. to the N. are the interesting ruins of the *Chd'
teau de ToumoSly dating partly from the 11th century. Farther on are the
Gorges d'Enval or' Bout-du -Monde. — The railway goes on to join the (11 M.)
Clermont and Limoges line (R. 36), thus cutting off about 10 M.
Besides the Puy de Dome on the right, we now see, on the left
the Mont Rognon , with a ruined tower , and the Plateau of Ger-
govie (p. 221). — 99 M. Oerzat (hotel).
A branch-line runs from Gersat to (I31/2M.) Jfaringues\ a smalt industrial
town, via (8I/2 M.) Joze^ with mineral springs.
103 M. Clermont-Ferrand (Buffet). For this town and Auvergne,
see pp. 214 et seq.
Beyond Clermont we pass (108 M.) Sarlilve-Cournon and (109 M.)
Le Cendre- Greet, and reach the banks of the Allier. Undulating
country ; best views to the right. This country abounds in old castles
and ruins, most of them on ^puys', as the singularly formed peaks
are called (comp. p. 218). Beyond (112 M.) Les Martres^de-Veyrts
we have on the right the Fuy de Monton (1925 ft.) which is crowned
by a modern statue of the Virgin, 65 ft. in height. We cross the Allier.
— 114 M. Vic-U'Comte, the little town of which name lies SM. to
the S.E. The old part of its ehurch, the Ste. Chapelle, is remarkable
as a rich example of the end of the Gothic period and the beginning
of the Renaissance.
Farther on, to the left, 2 M* from Coudes, are the imposing ruins
of the * Chdteau de Buron, an aneient stronghold of the Counts of
Auvergne. To the right, beside the Allier, are the ruins of a toll-
tower. Above Coudes, on the right, is Montpeyroux, dominated by
a 13th cent, tower.
llSVsM. Coufles (Hot, du Commerce ^ at the station; Duason),
on the right bank of the Allier.
A diligence in connAction with the first morning train plies hence to
(I31/2 M.) St. Nectaire (p. 227) in about 3 hrs., and thence to (3 H. farther)
MuroU (p. 336). — Another diligence plies also to (19 M.) Besse (p. 335) vi&
14*
212 ///. Route 32, BRlOXJDE, From Netert
(11/2 M.) UonUtifui'le-BUme and (I31/3M.) Le CJuix, near wMch are l\ie
<?ro<t«« de /0iia« (p. 325).
To the right and left are rocks and picturesquely situated vil-
lages. We recross the Allier and see the Monts Dore (p. 224) on the
horizon to the right.
I24V2 M. iBfloire ri266 ft. ; Buffet ; Hot, de la Posie), a town of
601 1 inhab. , on the Couse y was the scene of many excesses both
by Calvinists and Catholics In the 16th century. The fine *Church,
in the Auvergnat-Romanesque style (12th cent.), resembles Notre-
Dame-du-Port at Clermont (p. 215).
The country now becomes less interesting. To the left, at a
distance, is the Chdteau de la Orange; farther off, to the right,
St. Oermain-Lenibron, a considerable village on an eminence; then
the ruins of the Chdteau de Chdtus. — Passing (130 M.) Lt Breuil
and (132^2 ^O ^ Saut-dU'Loup, we cross the Alagnon and note
on the left another castle in ruins. Then , after a short tunnel,
(136*/2 M.) Brasiac-les- MineSf the centre of a small coal-fleld.
At (140 M.) Aryaat a397ft.; Buffet; Hot. du BiUi etdela
Oare) the Aurillac branch (p. 254) diverges to the right.
To the right, on an eminence, is the Chdteau de Paulhac (15th
cent.) ; to the left, a fine mountain-amphitheatre.
146 V2 M. Brioude (Hotel du Nord), an ancient town of 4963 in-
habitants. The Church of St. Julien, well seen from the railway, is
a remarkable monument of the 12-13th cent., Gothic in its details,
but still Romanesque as a whole. It has a tower at each end, both
rebuilt in the 19th cent., that over the portal without a spire. The
Chapel of St. Michel contains a fresco of the 12th century.
Recrossing the Allier 1 Vc M. farther on , we pass (153 M.) Fru-
ffilrea^le'Pin. On the right, the picturesque ruins of the Chateau
de Domeyrat (15th cent.), overlooking the village of the same
name. — 157V2 M. Paulhaguet, — At (161 M.) St, Qeorget-d' Avrat
diverges the line to Ntmes (p. 267). — The line ascends and makes a
wide sweep to the 8., round the Mont Brian^on (3420 ft.). — 173 H.
La Chaud^ beyond which there are magnificent views to the left,
extending as far as the Monts Dome (pp. 218, 219). — After pass-
ing (176M.) Fix'St'Oeneffi the line traverses a tunnel, I'/s ^*
long, in the Afon^s du Velay, and attains its highest point (3660 ft.),
afterwards descending into the basin of the Loire. Fine views.
From (181 M.) Darsae (3010 ft.; small hotels at the sUiion^
an omnibus plies to La Chaise-Dleu (p. 213). We reach the valley
of the Borne. From (186 M.) Borne an omnibus plies to St. Pau-
lien (p. 254). Farther on we cross the stream, and beyond the rained
Chdteau de St. Vidal (left) descend rapidly. A fine vi«w of the
picturesque town of Le Puy soon opens on the left , and the line
makes a wide sweep to the E. - 194 M. Le Pny, see p. 251.
to Le Fuy, LA CHAISE-DIEU. ///. R<Atte 3ft. 2i3
b. Vift Yiehy, La dudie-Bieii, aad Dan ae.
189 M. — Prom KeY«rs to Arlane, 131 H.^ Eailwat in 7 lir«. (fares
23 fr. 60. 15 fr. 95, 10 fr. 40 c). From Arlane Dili«bmc£ in anmmer daily
to (10 M.) La Chaise- Dieu in 2Vs brs. (2 fr. ; carriage for 4 pers. 8 fr.), and
thence twice daily to (15 M.) Darsae in 3hrs. (2 fr.). Railway from Arlane
toDarsae under construction. — From Darsac to Le Puy^ 13 H., Bailwat
in 35 min. (fares 2 fr. 35, 1 fr. 60, 1 fr.).
From Nevers to Vichy and (90 M.) Courty, see pp. 200, 202, and
210. The Ambert line then crosses the Dore. — 92 M. Pont-de-Dore
(buffet), also on the line from Clermont-Ferrand to Lyons (p. 248).
We ascend the valley of the Dore to the S. — 98 M. Courpiere (1035 ft. ;
Hot. de France), beyond which lies the most picturesque part of
the route. — 108 VjM. Olliergues, — IISV? M. Vertolayt.
About iy^V. to the S.E. lies Job (Hot. dee Voyageurs), whence the
Pi«rre-rar-Haut« (5380 ft.) , the chief summit of the M»nU du Forez^ may
be ascended in 21/2-3 hrs. Deacent in II/3 hr. to Gbalmazel (p. 247).
121Vi M. Ambert (1730 ft; THe d'Or; de Pans), an ancient
town of 7709 inhab., with an interesting church of the 15- 16th cent.,
and manufactures of lace and of rosaries. — Beyond (126 M.) Mar-
sac we cross the Dore for the last time.
131 M. Arlane (1940 ft. ; Hot du PHnee; Rerol), an old town of
3352 inhab.. Oil a hill between the Dore and its affluent the Dolore.
The Road to La CHAiSE-Disu ascends to the S. , then turns to
the B. , and reaches (3M. ) Le Procurtur, whence it continues to
mount through picturesque wooded gorges. The new railway (see
above) makes a detour of 7 M., via St. Alyre.
10 M. La Chaise-Dieu (Uon d'Or), a village with 1608 inhab.,
situated on a hill (3575 ft.), owes its name to a celebrated Benedic-
tine abbey, the Casa Dei, founded about 1036 by St. Robert. Amongst
its abbots and nominal rulers have been Popes Clement VI. and
(Gregory XI., Richelieu, Mazarin, etc. The vast buildings of the
Abbey were surrounded in the 14- 15th cent, by fortifications,
parts of which still remain, notably the Tower of Clement VI., at
the side of the church. There are few traces of the Cloister^ which
dates from the 14-15th cent. , to which time al 0 belongs the pre-
sent Church. The facade is approached by a grand flight of steps
Mid is flanked by two towers, which have, however, lost their spires.
I'^e wide nave and aisles are uniform in height, with galleries.
The rood - loft and the organ - case (at the W. end) date from the
17th century. In the choir, which has a stone screen, are the muti-
lated tomb of Clement VI. (d. 1352), magnificent stalls, Flemish ta-
pestries of 1501-1518, and (on the left, in the ambulatory) a re-
iiiarkable but almost obliterated Dance of Death by an unknown
Mtist of the second half of the 15th century.
The Road to Dabsac continues to run to the S., crossing an
^iidulatory and partially wooded plateau, near the Monts du Velay,
and occasionally commanding distant mountain -views. — 10 M.
(from La Ohaise-Dieu) AUegrc (Commerce), with a 14th cent, cha-
214 IlJ.SwUe93, CLERMONT-FERRAND. HUtory,
teau. To the left, farther on, is tbe Mont de Bar (3825 ft.; ascent
V2hr.), an extinct volcano. — At (15 M.) Dartac (p. 212) we join
the preceding route to Le Fuy (p. 251).
33. Clermont-Ferrand and its Environs.
a. Olermont-Ferrand.
Hotels. •Grahd-HOtbl db la Postb (PI. a ^ A, 3), R. 2i/a-6, B. I-I1/4,
dej. 3, D. 4, pens. 9-13, omn. 1/4 fr., luggaee V4 fr. each trunks db l'Ukiyebs
(PI. bi B, 4), R. from 23/4, B. 1, d^i- 3, D. 31/2 fr., omn. 50 and 25c.,
view of the Puy de Dome; db l'Europb (PI. c^ A, 4)^ Hot. ob Lvoit
(Pl.d; A, 4), unpretending; all these are in the Place de Jaude. 6k. Hot.
DB LA Paix, Boulevard Desaix (PI. e; B, 3), R. 21/2-31/2, B. 1, d<j. 2Vj,
D. 3 fr.; Du LoDVRB (PI. f ; B, 3), behind the theatre, R. % d^. 2l/s, D. 3,
pens. 6V4 fr. ; Tbbminus, opposite the station, R. 3, D. 3Vs fr. \ dv Globe,
R. 2V8-3^ D- 3fr.; HoTBL Modbrmb, Avenue Gharras, dej. 21/2, D. 3 fr.
Beitaurants. *Hugon, Rue Royale (PI. B, 3); Monteil, Rue Blatin 36;
and in most of the hotels.
Caf^i. Glacier^ de Paris ^ Lyonnais^ dt VUniveriy Place de Jaude.
Cabi. In the town, by day, 1 fr., by night (9 p. m. to 5 a. m.) 1 fr. 50;
to the station and from the Place de Jaude to Royat, 50 e. extra; luggage
50 c. extra, 1 fr. to the hotels at Royat ; per hr., 3 and 4 fr.
Eleotrio Tramways ply from Mont/errand and from the StatUm to tbe
Place de Jaude (PI. A, 4), via the Place DeKlle (PI. D, 2); and from tbe
Place de Jaude to Royat. Fares from Montferrand to the Place Delille
10 c. ; thence to the Place de Jaude 10 c. ; from the station to the Place
de Jaude 15 c. ; thence to Royat 20 c. (40 e. after 10 p. m.).
Post Office (PI. B,2), Rue du Poids-de-Ville. — Telegraph Office (PI.
B, 4), Square d^Assas ; also at the Post Office and the Railway Station.
Theatre, Place de Jaude (p. 216). — Edbv Thbatbb, Place Ghapelle.
Enqiury Office (Syndioat dVmiialtve), Place de Jande 4; also for £X'
cttnions to the Puy de D6me (4 fr.), Gergovie (3 fr.), Lac d'Aydat (5 fr.), etc.
Clermont - Ferrand {i^^b ft.) ^ the former capital of Auvergnt
(p. 218), and now the chief place in the department of the Puy-de-
Vome, is a town of 52,017 inhah. , the headquarters of the 13tli
army corps , the see of a bishop, and the seat of a university. It
is built on a slight eminence rising from the wide and fertile
basin of Limagne on the E. and at the foot of the remarkable range
of extinct volcanoes known as the Monts Pome (p. 218) on the
W. The Puy de Dome (p. 219) rises in full view of the Place de
Jaude. In general appearance the town does not correspond with
the beauty of its situation. Its streets are, as a rule, narrow, and
the houses, huUt of lava, have a gloomy and forbidding look.
The town has superseded the Gallic Augusta Nemetum^ which itself
succeeded Gergovia (p. 221) as the capital of the Arvemi, after tbe
overthrow of Vercingetorix by CiBsar at Alesia in B. C. 52. After being
repeatedly ravaged by the barbarians, it took in the 10th cent, the name
of Clarus Mons^ whence its present name Clertnont. To this was added in
the 17th cent, the name of yerrand on the occasion of the annexMion uf
the little town of Monl/errand^ situated 1 M. to the N. Here, at a Council
summoned by Pope Urban II. in 1096, the first Crusade was arranged.
Whether Gregory of Tours was a native of the town is uncertain, but it wa«
Ihe birthplace of Pascal (1623-1662) and of Delille (1738-1819), the poet.
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From the station we reach the town by the Avenue Charras,
which traverses a suburb (with the handsome modern church of St,
Joseph) and leads to the Place Delille (PI. D,2,3), ornamented with
a fountain. The Rue du Port, beginning near the middle of this
square, passes a little farther on to the 8. of —
"^otre-Dame-dn-Port (PI. 0,D,2), a church founded in the 6th
cent., rebuilt in the 9th and 12th, and recently restored. ArchsBolo-
gicaliy it is the most remarkable church in Clermont, being the typi-
cal representative of the Auvergnat Romanesque style, of which
there are several fine examples at Nevefs and Issoire (p. 212). The
most interesting part of the exterior is the choir, which is covered
with patterns formed of black lava and white stones. From it
radiate four line chapels, alternating with buttresses. These are
marked by their rich modillioiis and contain columns with capitals
of elaborate workmanship. The transepts are decorated in the same
manner and flanked by small apses. The S. transept contains a
side -portal with sadly mutilated high -reliefs. From the crossing
rises a good modem tower , the base of which is in the Auvergnat
Romanesque style. The plain facade has a Gothic 14th cent, doorway.
The first bay of the nave and the aisles are surmounted by small
round-vaulted galleries, with a triforium of round arches on the left
and trefoil-headed arches on the right. Under the chancel is a fine
crypt with a small black statue of the Virgin.
A small street to the N) of this church leads to the Place d'Es-
pagn^ (Pi. C,D,2), oblong in shape, so called because Spanish
prisoners of war were employed upon it in 1692. From this square
and from the Pltice de la Poterne (PL B, C, 2), a little farther on, flue
views are obtained of the Monts Dome. Lower down, in a square
which bears his name (Pi.B,2), is the bronze Statue of Blaise
Pascal (1623-62), the philosopher, by Guillaume (1880).
We now re-enter the town, following the Square Blaise Pascal and
the Place de la Poterne. The second street on the right passes in
front of the Hdtel de VUle and the Palais de Justice (PI. C, 3), which
together form one huge building in the neo-classical style. Farther
to the S. is the —
•Cathedral (PI. B, C, 3) , a fine Gothic building , the construc-
tion of which was begun in 1248 from plans by Jean Deschamps,
but has been interrupted and resumed several times. In the 15th
cent, the side-portals with their unflnished towers were added ; then
the building was once more abandoned till the 19 th cent., which
witnessed the completion of the fagade with its two towers after
the plans of Viollet-le-Duc.
The Iktbriob is distinguished by its harmonious proportions. The
choir, with its plain aisles, apses, and side • eha pels , is in the early
Gothic style; the nave^, with double aisles and chapels, is in a later
Gothic style. The windows, below which, is a fine triforium with pointed
gables, eontain stained glass of the 13-15th cent., the rose-windows in
the transepts being specially fine. The hig^-altar^ Qf copper, t^e bishop>
216 IJI.R&wte33. CLERMONT-FERRAND.
throne, and the railings of the ehoir are all modern, deaicned by VioUet-
le-Duc. In the second chapel to the right of the choir is a painted
wooden reredos of the 16th cent., representing the lives of St. Crispin
and St. Crispinian. In the left transept is a ^jaeqnemart* (eloek-flgure),
taken in the B«ligions Wars of the 16th eent. at Issoire.
A Monwrntnt of the CruBadet, with a bronse statue of Pope
Urban II. (comp. p. 214) by GourgoniUon , was erected in 1899 in
the adjoining square.
The Rue des Qras, descending from the front of the cathedral,
is among the chief streets of the old town. No. 34 , the Maiion des
Architectes, contains a fine Renaissance staircase.
To the S. , beyond the 17th cent. Church of St. Pierre- des-
Minimet (PL A, 3, 4) and the Theatre, we reach the FUoo de Jande
(PL A, 4) , the centre of Clermont , though situated to the W. of
the town proper. It is adorned at its S. end by a bronze statue, by
NanteuU, of Desaix (1768-1800), the distinguished general, a native
of Auvergne.
The Kue Blatin, in the direction of the Puy de Dome, leads from
the W. side of the Place de Jaude to Roy at (p. 217).
. On this side of the town, but farther on (direetion-plaeardj), are the
curious Fontaimes PiirifianU* de St. Alyre (PI. A, 1; mineral baths). Visitora
are expected to make some small purchase or to give a gratuity.
AVe return vift the Boulevard Desaix, passing near a MonumetU
du Centenaire de 1789, by Gourgouillon, and the Fr(feeti^re (PI.
B, 4) , and beyond the Square d'Assas (PL B, 4) follow the Rue du
St. Esprit, past the Lyc/e Paacal (PL G^ 4), and the R«e Ballainvil-
liers to the Fontaine Desaix (PL C, 5).
The building to the left at the corner of the Boulevard Lafayette
and the Avenue Vercingtftorix, which is adjoined by the University
(p. 214), contains the library and the Mnide (PL C, 5). The latter is
open to the public daily f^om 10 to 12 and 1 .30 to 4, except Monday.
GHboukd Flooi. — Fragments of Roman seulpture, mediftval and
modem sculptures.
First Floob. — Room I. Weapons, furniture, fajenee, etc.; Roman
sepulchral remains; coins (including a unique silver denier of Lotbsir)-
— Boom II. Portraits, with inscriptions. In the glass-eases are sb»U
works of art in various materials^ coins ^ bas-reliefs; PascaPs calculating
machine. Between the windows on the left side is a series of smtU
painted terracotta reliefs (i6th cent.), reproducing the Dance of Death
at Bile. — Room III contains principally pictures. On the right, 5. J>a<«ff
ih€ Younger^ Fair at L^Impruneta, a reversed reduction, by the artist him-
self, of a picture which is now In the Old Pinakothek at Munich ; 698. Omro-
/alc. Holy Family^ S9. After Raphq9l^ Reduced eOf y of the Battle of Con-
stantine; 3. Rofnboutt^ Dentist; 318. Hibtrot Adoration of the Shepherds.
— In the centre, two shields of repousse work in silver and iron, repre-
senting scenes from Paradise Lost and The Pilgrim's Progress, by Mortl'
Lodeuil^ of Olermont. — Room IV. Paintings of inferior interest ( antique
vases, drawings, engravings, etc.
The Ubrary, with upwards of 55,000 vols, and 1100 MSS., is
open daily, except Sun. and holidays, 9-11 and 2-5. The ini-
versity (PL C, 5), adjoining, has faculties of science and literature.
Between the Museum and the Acad^ie is a School of PUei-
tultwre, open to visitors daily from 2 to 6 p. m.
ROYAT. ///. R(mte 33. 217
The lardin Leooq (PI. G, 5,6), in the yicinity, is a fine public
promenade , with a Botanieal Garden ; a military band plays here
in summer. — The Mus/e Lecoq (PI. C, 5), in the small Place Le-
coq, has natural history and geological collections (open on Thurs.
& Sun., 10-3).
The Cours Sablon (PL D, 5, 4), one of the old bouleTards, leads
to the N. to the Grande Fontaine, or Fontaine de Jacques <VAmh(fi$e
(PI. D, 4), a tasteful monument in Volvic stone, erected in 1515 by
the town and Bishop Jacques d'Amboise. It consists of three basins,
one above the other, richly sculptured and adorned with statuettes.
— To the left, behind the Lyc^e, is the tlglUe dea Cannes (PI. C, 4),
a fine Gothic structure of the 14 -15th cent-, without aisles. Its
large windows have modern glass.
The Boulevard Trudaine ascends from th« Fontaine d'Amboise
to the Place Delille and the Avenue Charras (p. 215).
b. Boyat.
From Clbbmont to Rotat. U/4 H. to the W., by the Rue filatin
(PI. A, 4)^ SVs ^- by railway. Eleetric tramway, seep. 314^ railway, see
P- 348. By the road we turn to the left before reaching Chamali^res
(p. 319), aaeend the valley of the Tiretaine, and pass under a railway-
viadnet. — The station is above us, to the left.
Hotals. Above the park of the Thermal Establishment, with a fine
view: Qra»d-H6tbl, R. from 41/9, B. iVa^ d^j. 4, D. 6, pens, from 12 fr.
SfLKxniD. R. S^/aS, B. IVsf d^j. 31/3, D. 4Vq, pens. 10-15 fr. ; Goktivbhtal,
K.5-iO, B. lVs'3, dej. 4, D.o, pens. 12-^, omn. 2fr.-, dss Baiks, pens,
from 10 fr. — In the Boul. Basin, behind these : Victokia et db I^icb, R.
3-5, B. >/4-l, dej. 21/9, D. 3, pens, from TVs f'-i »■ Paris; db l'Eukopb,
K- 4-10, pens. 8-14 fr. ; Ob. BdT. pb Ltox., pens, from 8 fr. ^ db la Paix,
pens, from 7 fr. - Towards the station : St. Mabt, R. U/9-5, pens. 8-12 fr. ;
!>■ l''Uvivbr8. — Lower down, nearer the baths*. Gbvtkal, pens, from
8fr. ; Gr. HdT. Bristol; Or. Hot. Richblibu (meubK); Gr. Hot. dv Parc,
Du LouvRB^ CAsAR, pens. from 7 fr. \ db Frakob bt d'Akglbtbrrb, pens,
from &fr. •, dbs Bourobs, R. 21/9-5, B. 1, dej. 3, D. 3Vs> pens- 8-12, omn. 2 fr. ;
»■ Vbvisb. — Sumerous Boarding H4nue» (pension, 10 to 30 fr. per day).
In an open situation, above the park, (he Castel du ParCy R. from 4, B.
1 fr. — Royat is considered expensive.
ReitaQlttata. D« Ccuino^ In the Parc, dej. 4, D. 5 fr. ; de* Marronniers ;
<^« Parc^ at the hotel of that name; and at other hotels.
Baths, 1-2 fr. according to the month and the hour at which they are
taken. — Douchbs, 60 c.-Hp/g fr. — Ihhalation, I-IV2 f'-
■iaeral Water. Subscription (obligatory) 10 fr. ; then, 5 c. a glass.
Quino Kvnioipal, open from Hay i5th to Sept. 15th-, admission 2 fr.,
with seat in the theatre 5 f r. ; subscription for 80 days 30 fr., including
tlte theatre GO fr. ; seat in the park during the music 15 c. (day), 26 c.
(evening) *, subscription, 5 fr. for 30 days.
Band daily in the Park of the Casino Municipal from 9.30 to 10.30
«• m., from 8.30 to 5 and from 7 to 8.80 p. m.
Poat and Talegraph OfAoe in the Park. — Caba, see p. 214. Carr. to
toe Puy de Dome 25 fr. ; see the tariff posted on the bridge.
Bnglish Ohureh Serrioe in summer.
A list of Phffticiam and other useful information is given in the
vatc^ du Bmignenr^ which is distributed at the Etablissepaept.
218 ///. Route 33, AUVERGNE.
Roy at (1475 ft), together with St, Mart, the part nearest to Cler-
mont, is a place of 1528 inhab., in a narrow valley watered by the
Tiretaine, and overlooked on the N. by the FiMf de Chateiz (2230 ft.)
and on the S. by the Puy de Oravenoire (2700 ft). Its higher points
command splendid views of the Puy de Dome, to the W«, and of
Clermont and the Limagne, to the £.
The Thermal Establishment is at St Mart, at the end of the
valley and on the bank of the river. It has four mineral springs,
used both for drinking and for bathing. These are the springs of
St. Mart (55** Fahr.), St. Victor (68°), Ceaar (84°), and EugenU
(96°). The Establishment is open throughout the year, and is espe-
cially frequented between May 15th and Oct 15th (about 5000 visit-
ors annually). The maladies which are successfully treated here are
rheumatism, gout, and other arthritic diseases, affections of the res-
piratory organs, and chlorosis and ansmia. Royat claims to rival
Vichy and in certain cases to be preferable. In the Park are remains
of Roman Baths, to the right, behind the Establishment
The village proper, with its picturesque church (ll-12th cent),
lies farther up the valley. - Excursions, see below.
c. The Pay de D6me.
Anvergne, Arvemia^ an old provinee of France, was divided into
Basse-Auvergne^ to the K. and E., and HauU-Auvtrgne^ to the 8., the two
- together corresponding to the present departments of Puy-de-D6ine and
Cantal and a part of Haute-Loire. Haute-Auvergne and the environs of
Clermont-Ferrand in Basse • Auvergne are especially interesting firom a
geological point of view, and, for the tourist, rank amongst the most
interesting regions of France. Nowhere can the results of volcanic action
be better studied. The shape of the mountains reveals their orifpn at a
glance. They are in general rounded, presenting a succession of isolated
cones, the outcome of volcanoes extinet before the dawn of history , but
with craters still easily recognizable. Many of these mountains bear
the name of Puy, derived from the Latin podiwn. They may be divided
into three systems. The first chain is that of the Mo%U Ddme^ or Ohahu
des Puys^ in which are 60 puys , from 2600 to 4000 ft. in height, deseendini;
in steps right and left of the Puy de Ddme (4806 ft. ; p. 21tf). The seeoBd
chain , more to the W. , includes the MonU Dor«^ of which the culmin-
ating point is the Puy de Sancy (6186 ft.), near Mont Dore (p. 334), the
loftiest summit in the interior of France. The third chain, to the S., (hat
of the MonU du CanUU, culminates in the Pk>mb du Cantal (6095 ft. ; p. 396).
The distance from Clermont-Ferrand to the top of the Puy de Dome
is from 8 to 10 miles , which may be accomplished by carriage in about
4 hours, except the ascent of the cone, and in 7 hours on foot, there and
back, besides halts. A carriage costs not less than 30 to Xi fr. The ei-
cursion cars (fare 4 fr. there and back) of the Syndicat dUoitiatiTe
(p. 314) ply tu the (3ol de Ceyssat (p. 319), whence, if 'desired, the ascent
may be made. — The air at the top of the Ddme is always cold. There is
a cafe-restaurant (dej. 31/3 fr.), and the custodian of the observatory has
rooms for the aeeommodation of tourists.
a. From Clermont to the Put db Dome via Royat. 1. Carri-
age Road. — Royat, see p. 217. From the Bath Establishment
where the tram-cars stop, we cross the river and ascend by the
street on the left We leave the footpath (see below) on the right
nearly opposite the church and near a small cascade formed by the
Arvant
PUT DE DOME. ///. Route 33. 219
Tiretaiue under a bridge. Farther on, towards the end of the village,
we turn to the left, cross the river, follow for a short, distance a street
in the upper part of the village, and turn to the right at the second
cross -streetb After that there can be no mistake. About 2^/^ M.
from Royat we reach the poor hamlet of Fonianat, Vt ^* beyond
which are the houses of Font^de^rArhre (restaurant), where car-
riages halt. About 10 min. farther on we join the La Baraque road,
and a post indicates the route to the Gol de Ceyssat and the Puy de
Dome, across a flat succeeded by a strip of wood at the foot of the
cone. To the left, on a hill, are the scanty remains of the Chdteau
dt Montrodeix, the fouudation of which dates back at least to the
8th century. The Col de Cey$aat (3535 ft ; three hotels) , at which
the carriages stop, is 2^/2 M. from the above mentioned point, to
the S. of the Puy, whence a good zigzag road ascends for IVs M.
more to the Observatory on the top of the mountain.
2. Pedestrian Route from Royat. This route, which is par*
ticularly to be recommended for the return on account of the view
of the valley and in the direction of Clermont, ascends , as stated
above, to the right at Royat (guide-post), crosses some vineyards,
turns to the left, and skirts the valley all the way to Fontanat,
through which it passes to join the carriage-road.
b. Yii La Basaqub. This route is about IV4 M. longer than
the preceding, and is seldom used except as a return -route by
those who have descended on the Puy de Pariou side (p. 220). It
leaves the Royat road on the left and passes through ChamcUieres
(see below). Fully Vi^* farther on it joins the Tulle road at a point
where a turn is made to the left and zigzags up to La Baraque. (A
path cutting off the last curve diverges halfway.) La Baraque (two
inns) is a hamlet 4 M. from Clermont, built oh a lava-stream from
the Puy de Pariou, the road to which branches off IV4 M. farther
on to the right of the Tulle road , which is the way to the Col de
Ceyssat mentioned above.
c. Via V1LLAB8. This is a less iBteresting route than either of the
preceding, but a« compensation it offers remnants of a Boman road paved
with blocks of lava and in a fair state of preservation. It leads first
to the right beyond the divergence of the road to Boyat. at the point
where the latter turns to the left, and passes through GA hr.) Chama-
Khres^ a village of !^98 inhab. , with a church dating in part from the
11th century. Then it passes under the railway and ascends a wooded
valley. Villars is a hamlet about 1 hr. from Clermont. Thence, passing
to the left of the hamlet of (V4 hr.) Cheix and farther on to the right of
0/4 hr.) F(mtanaty we join the preceding routes.
The *Pay de D6me (4805 ft.) is formed of a 'porous trachyte,
which is peculiar to this mountain and therefore called d^mite. It
is scantily clothed round its base by wood, and elsewhere by coarse
grass. The top is a fairly extensive plateau sloping towards the S.
Upon it are an observatory (inn, p. 218) and some ruins (p. 220).
Ill clear weather the •Panorama is vast and magnificent : to the
£• the valley of Royat, Clermont, and the Limague ; to the S. a
220 ///. Route 33. PUY DE DdME.
number of naked volcanic cones, attaining a height of from 3600 to
4100 ft. above the sea ; farther away, the Lac d'Aydat, to the left of
which are the Monts Dore, dominated by the Puy de Sancy, and still
farther, the heights of the Cantal; to the W., a broken plain; to the
N., other volcanic cones, forming a continuation of those to the S.,
amongst which we may single out the Petit Puy de Dome, a buttress
of the chief mountain ; then the two Sucfaets ; to the left, the Puy de
Come ; to the right , the Puy de Pariou , etc. (see below). In clear
weather it is said that the Pelvoux, 175 M. distant, and Mont Blanc,
190 M. distant, are visible.
The scanty Ruiks which cover a part of the plateau are those of a
Temple of Mercury^ built of enormous stone blocks bound together
by iron clamps. Several platforms are still recognizable, and on the
last of these are some small apartments, looking towards the S., and
ending in semicircular form , nearly all provided with stone seat.8.
Roman coins and other antiquities have been found here.
It has been auggested thftt this waa the d«poaitory of the eoloaaw of
Merenry, mentioned by Pliny in his Natural History aa having been carved
by Zenodoms, who spent ten years on his task and received 400,000 ses-
terces for it. But no trace of this statue has been found.
The Obsbuvatory, at the upper end of the plateau, opened in
1876, communicates with Clermont by means of a special telegraph.
— It was on the Puy de Ddme, in 1648, that Pascal made his first
experiments to ascertain the weight of the atmosphere.
Sure-footed pedestrians who wish to save time may descend
in about 1 hr. straight from the summit to the road by which they
ascended, by following the direction of the telegraph. Foot-
passengers or those who send down their carriage by this road
generally descend on the N. side towards the Petit Puy de D&mt
(4160 ft), to which there are two paths, the left one being shorter
but steeper than the right. On the left there is a complete crater
called the Nid de la Poule. Farther on, in front, is the Puy dv
Petit-Suchet (3950 ft.), and to the left the Grand-Suchet {4070 ft.)-
Passing to the right of the former, we may reach the Puyde Pariou
(3970 ft.) in about 2 hrs. from the top of the Puy de Dome. It has a
crater over 1000 ft. in diameter and about 300 ft in depth, and a
'Cheire* or lava-stream on the side next Clermont The Puy de Come
(4150 ft), the second to the W. , has a double crater; on the Puy de
Clieraou (3965 ft), between the two, are curious grottoes, especially
on the S. side (torch or candle required). The descent is made to
the N.E. to the road to Pontgibaud, which joins the Tulle road at
La Baraque (p! 219), about 2Vt M. from the foot of the Puy de
Pariou. It skirts the lava-stream of that mountain.
Fbom Clbbmovt-Fbrravd to Movt-Rogvov AMD THB Platbao db Obi-
ooviB, 4 and 6 M. , 4-5 hrs. walk there and back; earriace about 15 fr.
We follow the Bordeaux road, by the Rue Oonod, to the S. of the Place
de Jaude (PI. A, B, 5, 6). This road, bordered by treea, leada through
fine orchards and rineyards. A ahort-cut for pedestrians divergea to the
LA BOURBOULE. IIL R»ute34. 221
right at tke first bend, rejoiniog the road Vs ^' farther on, to the right
of B0aumon*. Another short-cut, to the left, may be made from the next
eur^e, leading direct to Ceyrat^ another large Tillaee nearly 2 M. from
Beaumont, at the foot of the Pny dn Mont-Kognen (1960 ft. *, fine tiowb).
The top of this mountain, which, like all the neighbouring puys, is of
volcanic formation, is reached in I/4 hr. by a steep aacent to the left. The
Otu<Ie, on the summit, built about 1160, has been in ruins since 1634.
The Plateau de Oerg avie (3440 ft.) lies about 3 M. to the £. of Mont-
Rognon. It is reached either by a direct footpath or by a longer carriage-
road, passing OUmtniat and the OorgeiT OpvM to the S. This basaltie plateau,
which measures about 1600 yds. by 650 yds., is the site of tbe Gallic town of
OergoviOt which Gifsar besieged after occupying Bourges, and where he was
defeated in 53 A.D. by tbe famous Vereingetorix. After the submission of
tbe Qauls Augustus tried to efface the memory of this defeat by trans-
porting the inhabitants to Nemetum, now Clermont, which he loaded
with his favours, whilst Gergovia was suffered to fall into ruin. The
present scanty remains consist of heaps of stones lying by the sides of the
roads which cross the fields, and which are said to indicate the course of the
streets of the town. Excavations have from time to time been under-
taken, with abundant results, especially on the £. side. The view from
the plateau is still more extensive than from Montrognon. Tbe shortest
route for returning descends to the E. to the Issoire road, which the
pedestrian may join by a path to the N. at (21/2 M.) Aubiire^ a place of
3348 inhab. , about I-V4 K< from Clermont.
From C/Uiriioht - Fbkbakd to La Bourbovub akd Lb Homt Dorb-
A. By Raikoay, 47 M., in 31/4 -3i/a hrs. (fares 8 fr. 50, 5fr.76, 8fr.75c.).
To (391/2 M.) LaqueuilU and thence bybranch- railway, see p. 249 and
below — B. By R^ad. To Le Mont Dore, 371/3 M., carriage for 4 pers. 45 fr. ;
exe«rs&on-ear of the Syndieat d Initiative (p. 314) to the (9M.) Lae d'Aydat
(5fr.). — We follow the Mont-Bognon route Caee above) to (3*/4 M.)
Ceyrat (see above), then ascend in zigzags, and beyond (31/2 M.) Sauhet
proceed to the W., passing several hamlets. To the right appears the
chain of tha Montt Ddtne (p. 318). Beyond a tunnel we cross tbe Cheire
du Pny de la Vaehe , a stream of lava which extends to the S. to the Lac
d'Aydat (3710 ft.), a picturesque lake situated about H/t M. to the left of
the main road. — At (I21/9 H.) Randatme (SiOO ft.: inn), a village with
the chateau of the late Comte de Montlosier (1755-1838), a benefactor
of the country, our route leaves the main road and thence runs to the
S., skirting various ^puya\ Beyond (i5Vs ^•) £'P*ao<M we descend, then
ascend past the Boehe Sanadoirt (p. 326) to (331/2 M.) the Lac de Guiry
336), whence we descend to (371/3 H.) Le Mont Dore (p. 333), which is
M. by rail from La Bourboule (see below).
(p. S
4I/3
34. La Bourboule. Le Mont Dore, and its Environs.
I. La Bourboule.
These points are most conveniently reached v!& the short branch
railway from Laqneuille (p. 349), which is a station on the railway from
Clermont-Ferrand to Brive and Is also reached from Montlufon (p. 241) via
Eygurandes-Merlines (p. 242). They may also be reached from Clermont-
Ferrand by road (see above). — Prom Pari* to La Bourboule emd Le
Mont Dore^ vift Orleans and Montlncon, 2821/oH., Railway in 9S/4-13V4 hrs.
(fares 51 fr. 5, 34 fr. 50, 22 fr. 60 c).
La Bourboule. — Kotels. Most of the hotels are new and comfortable,
but it is advisable to ascertain the charges beforehand. Hotbl dbs Ilbb-
fiRiTAmiiQDBs, pens. 11-19 fr.; db la Mbtropolb, B. 3-8, B. I1/3, d^j. 4, D. 5«
pens. 13-20, omn. 1 fr. •, Gravd, R. 4-8, B. I1/3. d^j. 4, D. 5, nens. 14-30, omn.
1 fr.; Palace Hotbl and Villa M^dicis, R. 5-12, pens. 12-20, omn. 1 fr. ;
Or. Hdv. DBS Btrakobrs ; db l*£ta.bli8SBMBVt; €o8mopolitaiii,R. 3-7, pens.
9 - 14 fr.-, DB Paris, all of the first class ; Bristol, 9-15 fr. ; Splbvdid-Hotbl ;
222 ///. Route 34. LE MONT DORE. HoteU.
B'BAvstjovn BT Du Ga8ivo ; ]>B FsAncB, Ibbb pretentions ; db Loxdbbs, from
8fr. ; Du Pabc^ pens. 9V4-'16fr. ; Kichblibu; du Globb bt dbs Baiks; db
l'Univbrs^ d'Algbr bt DBS Dbux Mokdgs, R. 3-10, pens. 8-16 fr.; db la
Boubboulb, db la Postb, db Bu88ib, du Locvbb bt du Hbldbb. R. 4-15,
pens. ^16 fr.; dbs Ambassadburs, from9fr. •, Covtikbktal^ lO-lofr.^DBS
SouRCBs, from 7 fr j dbs Aholais ; db Vbvisb, from 7 fr. ; BsLUiTDm, second-
class. Numerous vilUu and Fumishtd Houses.
Cafte, in the parks; Ga/i-Restauramt du Casino^ dej. 3, D. 5fr.; Cafi
Frangais^ opposite the cl\ief Establishment.
Thexmal Xttablishmenta. Drinking, 8-12 fr. per season. Baths 1 fr. 90 e.-
5 fr. according to class, establishment, and season ; douche 1-3 fr.
Carriages dear, bargaining desirable. Public Canvepanet to Le Mont
Dore, 1-1 1/2 fr. — Saddle-horses^ 6-10 fr. per day ; Donkeys^ l/j-l fr. per hr.
— Electric Launch^ 35 c. each person. — Rowing Boats^ from 1 fr. per hour.
Oasinos. Casino Chardon, Pare Ohardon; Casino des Thermes^ Pare de
Fenestre. Subscription 2 fr. per day, 15 fr. per week , 40 fr. for three
weeks. — Thidtre des Thermes^ 2-3 fr.
La Bourhoule (2790 ft.), formerly an insignificant hamlet, had
1 996 inhab. in 1896, and is rapidly developing into a small town,
owing to the growing popularity of its thermal mineral springs.
which attract about 7000 visitors annually. There are three thermal
establishments and two casinos. The chief springs, rising on the
Rocher de la Bourhoule, a height above the town, are the Source
Choussy and the Source Perrilre, with a temperature of 60* Fahr.,
used. in cases of anemia, rheumatism, lymphatic affections, diseases
of the skin and the respiratory organs , diabetes, and intermittent
fevers. La Bourhoule has the character of a health-resort for families
and children, though complaints are made of its expensiveness.
Excursions. The exeurtions from La Bourhoule are practically the
same as those fromLe Mont Dore. — The Mont Dore Road (41/3 M. ; earr., see
above) ascends the right- bank of the Dordogne. Gross-roads, see p. 235.
About halfway are the Oucades de la Vemiire and du PM-it-Barbe^ often
visited from La Bourhoule. The former is visible from the road (p. 225).
They may also be reached via the right bank.
The Koohe Yendeiz (3845 ft.; fine view) is nearer to La Bourboule
than to Le Mont Dore. It lies about 2 M. to the S.E. of the former, via tfar
valley of the Fenestre ^ beyond the park of that name. — At PregnouXj
farther to the N., obsidian is found. — A route descends on the 8. to
(5 M. ) Le Mont Dore. — About 51/2 M. to the 6.W. lies the little tuHo
of Latour d*Auvergne (hotels).
The heights to the E., in the direction of the valley, are the Fmp Qroi
and the Bonne - d" Ordenehe (p. 22fi). Nearer lies -lA«ra(-ltf-Q«a<r«, a village
presenting a most picturesque appearance.
II. Le Mont Dore.
Hotels (comp. the remarks at p. 221). Kear the Bath Establishments ■•
UoTBL Sabcirov-Rai»aldy, pens. 12-22 fr. ; Nouvbl Hutbi« , next the pre-
ceding, and HoTBL DB LA PosTE, same proprietor, pens. 12-18 fr. \ db Pabis,
DU Pabc (same proprietor), I6-I8 fr. •, de Fkaxce et db l'TJmivbrs ; Ra-
MADE Atvi^., from 8 fr. ; dbs Baibs rt de Lyon, 8-14 fr. ; OR. Mftr. Bardbt,
10>16 fr. ; Bbau-Sjtb; DB Lomdbbs, from 8 fr.; db la Paix; Or. Hdr. dbs
ETRAvoBRii, R. 4-6, B. 1, diij. 31/s, D. 4, pens. 9-12 fr. — BROOiiBB Atiii,
small; Basadug-Laudoubb; dbs Thbbmbs; dbs Sources, moderate. —
Numerous Furnished Houses and Villas.
Caf^s. Du 0aj*io, du Pont^ de la Rotonde, all near the Promenade, on
the left bank; de Paris ^ higher up, on the banks of the Dordogne.
Springs. LE MONT-DORE. ///. Route 34. 223
Thermal EstabliahaMBt. Drinking and gargling, 13 fr. for 30 days;
baths y4-SfT.; in the common basin, free (except in July); douches
s/4-3 fr-i baths with douches 3 and 5 fr. -, porters (see below) 40 and 50 c,
there and back 75 c. and 1 fr. The tariff and a list of Pkffiieians are ex-
hibited in the Establishment.
GarriagM, generally dear, about 20 fr. per day (bargaining necessary).
— Horses and Donkeys, 3-6 fr. per day ; no tariff.
Ouidot, scarcely required for the ordinary excursions, with the details
given below ; 3-10 fr. for half-a-day, 5-13 fr. per day
Gable Sailway (Funirulaire) up the Capucin (p. 235), from the Pont
Meynadier (3610 ft.) to the Salon (4084 ft.), 560 yds. in length. Fares be-
fore 10.30 a. m , up 80 c. (3nd cl.), down 35 c, return -ticket 1 fr. ; after
11.30 a. m., up IV4 or 1 fr., down 8/4 or 1/9 fr., return-ticket 13/4 or IV4 fr-
CaeinOt Admission per day 1 fr. ; subscription for 30 days 15 fr. , in-
cluding chairs in the park ; theatre 1/2*4 fr.
Poet and Telegraph Office, Bue Favart, at the comer of the Issoire road.
English Church Service in summer.
Le Mont Dore (3440 ft), a little town of 1866 inhab., on the D&r-
dogntf which rises a few miles higher up , lies in a beautiful valley
surrounded on three sides by the loftiest heights of the Monts Dore
(p. 224). To the charm of situation it adds the advantages afforded
by very important mineral waters, which have been known from
the days of the Romans and at present attract about 6000 invalids
annually. They are used both for drinking and bathing in cases of
diseases of the respiratory organs, incipient pulmonary affections,
rheumatism, chlorosis, and other ailments.
The Thermal Establishment, in the Place, was partly rebuilt in
1893, and is now an attractive and well-managed institution. Within
may be seen fragments of Roman architecture and sculpture, dis-
covered in rebuilding the Establishment in 1817 and later. Re-
inaiiss of a Roman Pantheon lingered till 1793 in the Place. The
Establishment is built with its back against the Montagne de I' Angle,
fiom which issue the mineral springs, and has an annexe to the N.,
containing the vapour- baths.
The springs are twelve in number: Source Rigny (109° Fahr.), Ber-
iirani or de la Madeleine (113°), iJajnond (108°), Boyer (113°), P«V«o» (113°),
NoweUe or des ChanUurs (116°), Chazerat (113°), Boyer - Bertrand (111°),
PattiMon (111°), Pavilion^ Grand Bain or Bain St. Jean, C4iar, and Caroline^
eombinod (113°), and Ste. Marguerite (59°). These yield together about
90,000 gallons of water daily. There are ''buvettes^ for the G^sar, Bamond
(the most chalybeate), and Bertrand springs. The aerated water of the
eold Ste. Marguerite spring has an agreeable taste. The Bath Establish-
ment is open 4-10 a. m. and 3-5 p. m.; visitors may inspect it in the
interval.
The treatment at Mont Dore is peculiar. It consists chiefly in
very hot baths (104-113** Fahr.), douches, vapour-baths, inhalation
of vapour, and equally hot foot-baths for the reaction. It requires
the supervision of a specialist. The patients are frequently carried
to and from the Establishment in litters or beds (porter, see above).
A special flannel costume is worn. The season , nominally from
Juiie 1st to Oct. 1st, extends in reality only from June 15th to
Sept. 15th, the climate at this altitude being severe, the more so from
the fact that the valley is exposed to the N., and closed to the S. by
the great wall of the Puy de Sancy.
224 ///. Route 34, L£ MONT DORE.
III. The Environs of Le Vont Bore.
A number of inteTesting excursions may be made from Le Mont
Dore, most of them by carriage or on horses or donkeys (see p. 223).
To THE Put db Sancy vi& the valley , 2V2 hrs. , by a road and
path practicable for horses to within V4 hr. of the summit. We as-
cend the right bank of the Dordogne from the end of the main
street, with the object of our excursion in front of us. After about
550 yards a path diverges to the left to the Qrande Cascade, which
is seen at a distance. It falls from a sheer rock of trachyte to a
depth of more than 100 ft.
We may also proceed from the fall to the Puy de Saney. or return
past it, at the expense of 8/4'l hr. extra. Ascending to it in 25 min., we
find a flight of steps in the rock, with a hand-rail, leading in Va hr. to the
Plateau de Durbize. We next follow the route to the valley of Chaude-
four (p. 326), and after 1/4 far. turn to the right along the path to Lea
Grates (fine views), above the Roc de Cuteau (6655 ft.) and the Pic de
Caeadogne (5895 ft.), between the valley of Le Mont Dore, on the right,
and the ValUe de Chaude/our^ on the left. The latter may be visited from
this side (p. 326). About SVa M. farther on we rejoin the path which
ascends from the valley.
To the right of the valley rises first the Pic du Capucin (4800 ft ;
see p. 225), which more or less resembles a head covered by a cowl ;
then the Puy de Cliergue (5470 ft.). Behind, opposite the Puy de
Sancy, is the Puy Oros (4860 ft). The carriage-road ends 7 M. from
the village ; Va M. farther on is a bridge ; and V4 M. farther we keep
straight on , avoiding the descent to the left To our right lies the
wild Vallon de Laeour, with its streamlet. After about 1 hr. we
cross the Dore and then the DogrUf which descend from the Puy de
Sancy and unite to form the Dordogne, 2^4 M. from Le Mont Dore.
The Dore descends in a cascade from the Puy, the summit of which
is hidden by the black peaks bordering the Gorge d'Enfer, to the
right. About 7 min. farther on the long Cascade du Serpent is seen
among the trees, descending from the Puy de Caeadogne. Thence
the ascent is continued by a fairly good zigzag path to the left over
pastures to the (1 hr.) Col de Sancy, where we leave the horses
(50 c), and And refreshments in the season. Thenee it is a short
V4 hr's ascent to the top of the *Pny de Banoy (6185 ft.), the highest
mountain in the centre of France. A geodetic signal and a broken
cross mark the summit
The *Pai(orama is very grand and extensive , comprising to the V.^
the valley of the Dordogne and the M^ntt SoM, «'. e. the mountains al-
ready named, several lower peaks to the right, farther away, the Puy
Barbier (6670 ft.), Puy de Frigoux (5625 ft.), Puy de la Tache (83TO ft.), etc. ;
the Lac de Gu^ry, overlooked by the Roche Sanadoire (4295 ft.; P- 226);
to the left, the Puy Gros (4860 ft.) and the Banne d^Ordenebe (p. 326), and
on the horisu>n the Monts Ddme; to the W., forests, pasture - lands, and
smaller Puys; to theS., near at hand, another Puy Oros 0^020 ft.), the Puy
Ferrand (see below), the Puy de Paillaret (5680 ft.) etc., the LaeChouvet
and the Lacde la Landie, a wide stretch of pasture, and the Xonts du
Cantal; to the E., the Lac Ghambon, in the valley of Chaudefour, 00 this
side of Murols (p. 226). — The view on this side is finer and more com-
plete fH)m the Pay Fonand (6006 ft.), which may be reached In Vt hr. from
the Sancy.
PIG DU CAPUCIN. ///. RouU 34, 225
This excursion may be agreeably prolonged by descending on the other
side of the Puy de Sancv. In 3 hrs. we reach the hamlet of VcuHvihrtt
(Hdt. Notre-Dame, D. SVa fir), a celebrated pilgrim-resort, with a ehnrch
containing a black statue of the Virgin, which is transported to Besse for
the winter. About SiAM. farther on, to the right of the road , is the
Lac Pavin Opavens^ ^25 ft. ^ inn), an ancient crater half- filled with
water, over 1/2 M. long and nearly as broad. Its precipitous banks, on
which rises the Aty d« Montchalme (^iB40 ft.), and the solitude which reigns
all around have given rise to manv weird traditions. About 2 M. hence
lies Beua iB6t. Tournade-Malguy^ 9fr. per day), a curious and Tery an-
cient little town , with remains of fortifications, including a 15th cent,
belfry-tower. — The Grottes de Jonaa, 5Va M. from Besse , are among the
chief curiosities of lAuvergne. They form an entire Tillage , now aban-
doned, the dwellings being hollowed out of the volcanic rock. There are
64 of these abodes, at various elevations , connected with one another by
winding staircaaes. The road leads on to C9ud€$ (p. 211), 19 M. from Besse
(omnibus). Another road, to the left, halfway between Besse and the
grottoes, leads to (51/2 M. from Besse) MuroU (p. 336).
To THE Capucin. The cable-railway (p. 223) ascends in 8 min.
to the Salon du Capucin (4085 ft), a forest-clearing, where refresh-
ments are to be had in the season. Turning to the left, we skirt the
Pic da Capaein (4800 ft.) in order to ascend it in 1^/t hr. more on
the W., the only accessible side. Riding is practicable to within
10 min. of the summit, which is bare and affords a line view of the
valley of the Dordogne, etc.
To La BoufiBOULB. This village may be reached by railway or
by a road on the right bank of the Dordogne, but it is much more
interesting to take the pedestrian route, in the valley to the left In the
latter case we cross the Dordogne, and turning to the right, follow
the left bank until we are behind the hamlet of Rigolet-Haut; or
we may take the shorter path which diverges to the left near the
beginning of the road and ascends to Rigolet-Haut. Thence we de-
scend straight to Rigolet-Bas, turn to the left, and follow the banks of
the Clierffue streamlet. About 1 Vs M. higher up is a saw-mill. Near
the hamlet is the fine Cascade du PlcU^d-Barhe (fee), so named from
the shape of the ravine into which it falls from a height of 55 ft The
Cascade de la Vemiere (fee), 10-15 min. lower down, is even finer,
though only 25 ft in height In a wood to the right is a (IVfM.)
clearing, much visited by pedestrians, called the Salon de Mirabeau,
from the fact that Mirabeau-Tonneau , brother of the famous orator
of the Revolution , made it a rendezvous of pleasure-parties when
he visited LeMont Dore in 1787. The path along the right bank of
the streamlet leads to the Dordogne , on the other side of which , at
th« above-mentioned fork, the road to La Bourboule is joined. This
point may also be reached by the left bank of the Dordogne.
To THE N. OF THE VaitirET. — Ahout ^/, M. feom Mont Dore, on
the road to Laqueuille, is the hamlet of QuetureUh^ whence we ascend
to the right, via the hamlet of Prendi-fy-Oarde, to the Oaseade de
QueureUh (100 ft; fee), 400 yds. above the road to Murols (p. 22^).
About Vi M. farther on in the valley, near a saw-mill, is the Ccueade
Baedeker. Southern France. 4th Edit. 15
226 in. Route 34. MfTBOLS.
du RosaignoUt ; and 1 M. farther (5 M. from Mont Dore) is tlie i
de Query (4070 ft.^ oval in shape, surrounded by pasture-lands |
enlivened with a cascade. About 20 min. farther on are the Bi
Sanadoire {4:2^5 tt.\ right) and the Roche TuUiere (4250 ft.;
two masses of abrupt basaltic rock, composed of very c\
columns. A foiiiress which formerly stood on the Roche Sam
has disappeared , after having been besieged for three weeks ij
14th cent., to dislodge a band.of 4(X) English adventurers. —
we may proceed to the N. to (2 hrs.) Orcival (p. 249) and (2*/^
Rochefort (p. 249).
The Puy Qroa (4860 ft.) is ascended in 2 hrs. from Le Mont
or La Bourboule, by a path (guide -post) to the N. of the roa(
the hamlets of Legal and Tamhaine, Fine view from the to
Thence a climb of Vt I^t. brings us to the summit of the Be
d' Of d«ne^ (4975 ft.), another line point of view.
To MuBoi.8 AKD St. Nbotai&e (Issoire), i2Vt <^nd ib^/t^-
riage-road. The road ascends to the right of the post-offlce and
the Plateau de I'Angle, whence there is a magnificent view
valley and the mountains already mentioned. As we roun(
Rooher de T Angle we see before us the valley of Gu^ry. Wei
cross the steamlet which forms on the right, at about iVt^- ^'^i
Mont Dore, the Cascade du Saut-du-Loup and Vi M. lower d
the Cascade de Queureilh (p. 225). The road turns to the
and, 7» M. farther on, forks.
The road to the left leads to Clermont-Ferrand (comp. p. 921). .
the fork, to the left, by the side of a saw-mill, is the (kutadt du Rotti^
(see above) *, V2 hr. farther on, to the right of the road, the (kueade dm
dU'Barbier, About iVa M. thence , 5 M, from Le Mont Dore , is the
<itf Ouiry (see above).
The road to Murols and St. Nectaire crosses, about 2Vt M. bey
the fork, the Col de Dyanne (4380 ft.), between the Puy de la Ti
(5455 ft.), on the right, and the Puy de la Croix- Morand (4960
on the left. It descends, past the hamlet of i>yann« (4000 ft), 01
plateau, partly planted with pines, at the end of which we seeMu)
its castle, and the Lac Ghambon. To the right are the peaks oj
Monts Dore. About l^t M. beyond Dyanne a road leads to the
saving about ^/^ hr. and passing the hamlet of Bressomileile.
10 M. Chambon (2925 ft.), a village on the C^ae, which
scends to the S.W. of the Monts Dore. Besse (p. 225) lies i
from Ghambon.
The Conse issues f^m the *ValU9 0/ Chaudtfour^ the upper pa
whieh is extremely pieturefque. From it we can easily join the f
to the Puy de Saocy (p. 934), 4-5 H. from Chambon.
About ^4 hr. farther on, the Murols road passes to the N. ol
Lae Chambon, through which the Gouse flows, and then skirti
base of the Tartaret (3155 ft), a pine^clad volcanic cone.
12Vt M. Mnrolf (*Bdta Ni/rat), a village famous for Its ♦Cd
of the 13-15th centuries. The imposing ruins, perched on a ma
to the teft, attract attention firom a disUnce. The efaiteau was i
LYONS. ///. Route 35. 227
an extensive and splendid manor-house, and its ruins are among
the finest extant. One of its towers has been restored and commands
a very fine view. The guide (in the village) expects a gratuity.
A road leads from Murols to (T^/s M.) Betse (p. 335) vi& BesoUes, before
which a road diverges to the left to Le Cheix (p. 213), and St. Vieter-la-
Riviire.— Diligence from Murols to C&udes (Clermont-Ferrand), see p. 311.
The road now turns to the N. E, and enters the valley of the Fredtt,
15 Vt M- S^* Nectaire, a village on the Fredet, consisting of St.
Nectaibb-le-Ba8 {Orand'Hdtel du'Parc; des Thermes; de Paris;
Boette ' Mazuel, pens. 6-12 fr. ; Madcuf) and St. Neotaibe-le-
Haot (Hotel du Mont Comadore; de la Paix; de France), St.
Nectaire has about a dozen thermal mineral springs, and three ther-
mal establishments : the Bains Remains and the Bains Boette in St.
Nectaire-le-Bas , and the Etablissement dM Mont Cornadore, the
most important, in St Nectaire-le-Haut. The Romanesque Church
(ll-12th cent.) is interesting and has lately been restored.
Interesting walks may be taken in the Gorge of the Fredety both above
and below St. Nectaire. — To the S. of St. Nectaire-le-Bas rises the Pay
d'Eraigne (2935 ft. ^ fine view). — About 13/4^. in the opposite direction
is the pretty *Cascade des Granges, near the village of that name , on the
Couse i and IV2 M. to the E. are the stalactite Grottes du Mont Comadore.
— To the N.W. rises the Puy de (?M*«a«i»*«/ (3065 ft.), with some shapeless
ruins, and nine grottoes near the top resembling the Grottes de Jonas
(p. 225). — From St. Nectaire to Covdes (Clermont-Ferrand), see p. 211.
35. Lyons.
Bailway Btatioaa. There are seven passenger stations in Lyons, without
counting those of the 'Ficelles' (p. 23o), but the central station and the
only one of Importance to visitors is the Oake i>B Pbbbachb (PI. C, 6;
Buffet). The others are those of Vaise (Pi. A, 1), on the Paris and Dijon
Line (R. 30); the Gare de Gen^e or des Brotteaux (PI. G, 3), on the Geneva"
line (p. 240) ; the Gare de la Groix-Rousse or des Dowbes (PI. D, 2; Ficelle de
Sathonay) , for Bourg and beyond it^ via La Dombes (p. 28d)^ St. Paul
(PI. C, 3), for the Montbrison line (p. 240) ; St. Just (PI. CA; Ficelle de Four-
vifere), for the Momant and Vaugneray line ; Gare de VEst (PI. G, 5), for the
St. Genix-d^Aoste line (p. 240). — For departures from Lyons, see p. 240.
At the Perrache station the hotel-omnibuaes meet the trains, but as a rule
they are as expensive as cabs, for a party even dearer.
Hot«U. In the town : *GBAiiD HdTBL db Ltoh (PI. a^ D, 3), Rue de la Re-
publique 16, R. from 31/2, B. U/a, dej. 4, D. 5 fr. \ ♦Gr. Hot. db Bbllbcouk
(PI. e; D, 5), Place de Bellecour 20, with a eaf^-restaurant (see p. 228)^
Gb. Nouvbl Hotel (PI. h^ E, 4), Rue Grol6c 11, R. from 3, B. II/2, dej. 3,
I>. 31/2 fr. ^ Gk. Hot. DB l'Eubopb (PI. d^ D, 4), Rue Bellecour 1, R.
from 4, B. II/2, d^j. 3, D. 5 fr.; Bayard (PI. s; D, 4), Rue President Car-
not 4, with restaurant, d^i. 21/2, D. 3 fr. ; db Romb (PI. p-, C, D, 5), Rue
dePeyrat 4; Gr. Hot. dbs Bbaux-Arts (PI. f; D, 4), Rue de THotel-de-
ViUe, 75, R. from 3, D. 4 fr.; *Gr. Hot. dbs Etranobrs (PI. g; D, 4), Rue
Stella 5, pens. 6-10 fr.; Gr. H6t. du Globb (PL e; D,4), Rue Gas-
parin 21; Dbs Abchbrs (PL o ; D, 4), Rue des Archers 15, R. from 21/2, B.3/4,
dej. 21/2, D. 3 fr. ; Hot. de Rcssib (PL m ; D, 4), Rue Gasparin 6, R. from 2,
dej. 3, D. 31/2 fr.; H6t. db Hilak (PL n; D, .^), Place des Terreaux 8,
R. from 2, B. 1, D. 3 fr. ; Db Paris bt du Nord (PL q; D, 3), Rue Piatiere 16.
Near the Gare de Perrache, but somewhat out of the way: Hot. db
l'Uhitbrs (PL i; D, 6), Cours du Midi 27; *A»glbtbrrb (PL j ; C, 6), Place
Camot 21 , R. from 3, B. IV21 ^^j- 81 !>• ^'fr. ; Hot. db Bordbaux bt du
15*
228 ///. Rmite 35. LYONS. Tramwayi,
PARC (PI. k •, C, 6) , Gours da Hidi , to the right of the exit from de sU-
(lon, R. 31/2-^, B- IV4. dej. 3, D. 4 fr.; HdT. db Nick (PI. r; D, 6), C!our«
du Midi 23, unpretending.
Bastauxanto. Ga/i Neu/^ Place Bellecour 7; Mormteur^ Rue Gentil 12;
BaptUtt^ Farge^ Place des Cordeliers \ Maiton-Dority Place Belleeour (music
in the CTening); Maderni^ Rue de la Republique 19; Orand Cafi^ Rue de
la Republique 8; du Helder^ Rue de rHotel-de-Ville 98, ail first -class,
with corresponding charges. Orand Cojfi - Restaurant Bellrcour ^ in the
hotel of that name, d^j. 3, D. 4 fr. ; Cafi de la Paix^ Place Bellecour,
dej. 8I/9, D. 3 fr.; Eden Re$tauramt^ Place des Terreaux 8(Hdt. de MUan),
d^j. 2l/s-3, D. 3-^/2 fr. Many of the cafes and the large brasseries (see
below) are also restaurants (ddj. 2-3i/q, D. 3 fr.). — Boui'lom GailleUm^
Place de la Republique 42 and Quai de la P^cherie 1; Bouitton Montet-
quieu, Place Gftmot 2b.
Oafifl, Mademiy Cafi Neuf ^ MaUon-Dorie^ see above; Oramd Cafi
Riche^ Place de la Republique; C. de la Paix, see above; C. de VUntvert^
Place des Jacobins 9; Anglait^ C. du Dix-Nettvihrne SUele^ Rue de la Re-
publique 24 and 37; C. <fe Madrid.^ Place de la Com^Aie and Rue de
la Republique 1.
Brasseries. Brasserie du Tonneau^ Rue de la Republique 66, near the
Place Bellecour; Taverne Oruber^ Place, des Terreauxl3; KUber^ Place de la
Gomedie 23 ; Goq d^Or, Taverne de Lyon^ Rue de la Re-publique 77 and 50; Bras-
serie Qeorgesy Gours du Midi 28, near the Perrache station, with a branch
opposite (Hoffherr) ; Thomassin^ Rue Thomassin ; EtoUe^ Gours Qambetta 1.
Oabfl. With seats for 2 or 3 persons , 1 fr. 50 c. per drive, 2 fr. per
hour; with seats for 4 persons, 13/4 »nd 2V2 f*"' ? 50 c. extra between
midnight and 6 a. m. — Luggage, 25 c. each trunk. 75 c. for 3 or more.
Electrio Tramways, a. Fbom the Place Bsllbcoub (PI. D, 5). 1. To
Montchat (PI. Q, 6). 2. To the B^-Coin (Villeurbanne ; PI. G, 6). 3. To
Vinisiieux (PI. Q, 8), all these via La Guillotifere (p. 238). 4. To the Pont
d'EcuUy (PI. A, 2). 5. To the Oare de Vaise (PI. A, 1), these two by the
right bank of the Saone. — b. FaoM the PLAcfe dbs Gohdeliers (PI. D,
E, 4). 6. To VilUurhanne (PI. G, 3). 7. To the AsiU de Bron (PI. G, 6).
8. To Monplaisir-la'Plaine (PI. G, 8), via Les Brotteaux and La OuiUotiire.
— c. From the Garb db Perrache (PI. C, 6). 9. To Les Brotteaux ^ Qare de
Geneve (Pi. G, 3), via the centre of the town. 10. To the Pesre ds la
THe d'Or (PI. F, G, 1), by La Guilloli^re and Les Brotteaux. 11. To St. ClmSr
(PI. E, 1), to the N., along the right bank of the Rhftne. — 12. From the
Place du Pont (PL E, 6) to the Oare de Vaise (PI. A, I). — 13. From the
Place de la Chariti (PI. D, 5) to Oullins and St. Genis-Lavml^ to the B.
(PI. G, 8) , by the right bank of the Rhdne. — 14. From the Archevtek/
(PI. G, 4) to Monplaisir (PI. G, 6; margin). — 15. From the Quai d€ ta
Picherie to Gollonges^ Fontaines^ Couzon, and yeuville-sur-Sadne {Vile Barb*;
p. 239). — 16. From the Pont MouUm (PI. A, 2) to BeuUy., Champague^ and
St. Cyr-au-Mont-d'Or. — 17. From St. Just (Ficelle; PI. B, 6) to SU. Fop.
— Usual fares: Ist cl. 20 e. ; 2ttd cl. (outside) 10 c. ; beyond the oetroi-
limits 5 c, 10 c, or more, extra.
Cable Tramways (known as FicelUs). 1. From the Avenue de rArche-
vfcM (PI. G, 4) to Fourviire (Place de Fourvi^re , opposite the Basilica),
every 5-10 min., fares 20 c., 10 c. (fares are paid at the top). — 2. From
the Avenue de VArchevfcM (PI. G, 4) to St. Just. This line joins the Una to
Mornant and Vaugneray (p. 240) at St. Just. To the left, close by. Is the
tramway for Ste. Foy (see above). — 3. From the Place Sathonetff (PI. D, 3)
to the Croix -Rousse (p. 238) every 6 min., fare 10 e. This railway joins
the Bourg-Sathonay line, which has booking-offices at the lower end for
both passengers and luggage. — 4. From the PUtee Croix-Pdquet (PI. D, 2)
to the Croix- Rouue.
Steamboats. — On the Sa6ne : The Mouehes ply between Perraehe (Pont
du Midi; PI. G. 6), Vaise (Pont Monton; PI. A, 2), and St. Rambert ai«-
Barbe) ; fare 10c. on week-days, 15 e. on Sun. and holidays to Vaise, 21^30 c.
all the way. The Parisiens ply, in summer, between Lyons ((^uai St. Antoine ;
in. D, 4} and CoUonces (p. 198), touching at Vaise, Llndustrie, Roehe*
Bittory, LTONS. ///. Mtoute 36. ^9
cardon (opposite the tower of La Belle-AHemande), La Gaille^ the Lye^e-
Chiire, rile-Barbe, and Quai du Vernay (35, 60 e.) ; and proceed to Chalon-
Bur- Saone (p. 195) on Hon., Wed., and Friday. — On the Rhone : The Otad)
iaieur plies from the Quai de la Gharite (PI. D, E, 5) to (ll-12hr8.,
ATignon (p. 480) on Wed. and Sat., starting at 6 a. m. (fares IU/3, 61/3 fr.).
Poflt Offtee. The chief office is at the corner of the Place de la Charite
and the Place Belleconr (PI. D, 5). — Telegraph Ofllee, open day and night.
Rue de la Barre 7. — Telephone, Rae de THdtel- de- Vllle 25 and at the
chief post and telegraph offices ; to Paris 11/2 fr. per 3 min., Marseilles
1 fr., St. Etienne 40 c, and so on.
Theatrea (closed in summer). Orand-ThSdtre (P\.J),1&^3), Place de la
Comedie (prices 60 c. to 7 fr.); ThMtre d«$ GiUeHn* (PI. D, 4), Place des
O^leatins (60 e. to 4 fr.). — Oafta - Ooneeita. OMtfno dei Arts (PI. D, 4) ,
Rue de la Republique 79; Scala, Rue Thommasin 20; Folies - Bergh-e ,
Avenue de l^oailles 56. — Oirous (PI. F, 5), Avenue de Saxe 20bis. —
Th6&trea de Ghiigiiol, a kind of entertainment originating at Lyons, are to
be found in the Place des G^iestins (PI. D, 4) , in the Passage de TArgue
(leading from the Rue de la Republique to the Rue Centrale), and at
Qnai St. Antoine 30 (Pi. D, 4).
Baths. De la Orotte^ Roe de la Gharite 4; tfc la Oare'de-Perraeke,
Rue de la Gharite 80; Cftantre^ Rue de la Republique 71; Hammam Lyon-
nais. Rue du Plat TQ-.du Rhdne, Quai de Retz and Quai de THopital.
Bankers. Oridit Lfonnau^ Rue de la Republique 18.
Ametioaa Oeasul, J. E. Covert^ Quai St. Glair 7; vice-consul. That.
N. Browne. — British Yice-Consul, W. L. KnoU^ Quai de Retz 9.
Bnslish Ohuroh (Holy Trinity), Quai de TEst 4 (PI. E, 2) ; service at 10.30
and 3.30; chaplain, Ret. H. Liter.
Chief Attraetleas. Place Camot and Place Bellecour (p. 230), Notre Dante
de Fourvihre (p. 231), Cathedral of St. Jean (p. 232), H6te\ de VUle (p. 233),
Palais des Arts (p. 233), Exchange (p.'^SS) and the Jlius^e Historique des
Tissus (p. 238), Pare de la Tite d'Or (p. 239).
I/yons (550-1015 ft.), the ancient Lugdununiy formerly the cap-
ital of the Lyonnais, and now of the department of the Rhone,
with 453,155 Inhab., is the third city of France, and the second
in industrial importance, silk being its great staple commodity.
It is also a fortress of the first class, an archiepiscopal see , the
headquarters of the 14th corps d'arm^e, and the seat of au ^uni-
versity' (established in its present form in 1896). Its importance
is due to its magnificent situation at the confluence of two navigable
rivers , the Rhone and the Saone, flanked by 6 M. of fine quays,
and on the slopes of hills which are crowned by fortifications.
Lyons was founded by the Greeks in B. G. 560, but its importance
dates only from B. G. 41, when the consul L. Hunatlus Plancus commenced
some considerable constructions under orders from the Roman Senate.
Augustus made it the capital of Geltic Gaul and Claudius gave it the
rank of Roman colony (see p. 236). The Roman town occupied the slope
on the right bank of the Saone, now known as Fourvih-e, from the Latin
Forum Vetus, constructed by Trajan. Ghristianity was first preached by
St. Pothinus in the 2nd century. After the invasion of the barbarians,
Lyons was abandoned by the emperors, and underwent manv changes of
masters, until it gave itself up to the King of France in 1273. It was
again hardly tried by the Italian and Religious wars. Attached to the
ancient regime, Lyons revolted against the Gonvention, was besieged for
two months in 1(93, and condemned to demolition. To accomplish this
as quickly as possible, Gollot d'Herbois, the actor, made use of gunpowder
and grape-shot, but fortunately was prevented by the fall of Robespierre
from completing his work of destruction and carnage. Lyons rose again
from its ruins under Napoleon I., and an unparalleled period of almost
uninterrupted prosperity began, during which it has become one of the
230 IIJ. Rmte 35. LYONS. Flate BplUeaur,
handsomest of modern cities. Lyons manufactures annually silk and other
goods to the value of about 16,000,000f., and it is said that one -half of
the world's supply of silk passes through its warehouses. Its breweries
enjoy a considerable reputation. — Lyons was the birthplace of the Em-
perors Claudius, Marcus Aurelius, Garacalla, and Geta, of St. Irenseus,
Sidonius ApoUinaris, St. Ambrose, Philibert Delorme., Barreme, Coyzevox,
Nicholas and Guillaume Goustou^ Jussieu, Suchet, Ampere, Jacquard,
Flandrin, Meissonier, and Puvis de Chavannes.
Lyons is divided by the Rhone and the Saone into three distinct
parts: viz. the town proper, on the tongue of land between the two
rivers, including the old suburb of La Croix-Eou8»e (p. 238) on the
hill above ; the quarter on the right bank of the Sa6ne , including
Fourviere and Vaise ; and the quarter on the left bank of the Rhone,
with La Quillotiere (p. 238) and Les Brotteaux (p. 239).
The Perrache quarter, in which is the principal railway-station
(PI. C, 6), owes its name to the sculptor Perrache, who, about 1770,
removed farther to the S. the confluence of the two rivers which
formerly met to the E. of where the station now stands. In front
of the station , extending from one river to the other , Is the broad
Caurs du Midi (Pont du Midi, see p. 238).
The Place Camot (PL C, 6), beyond the Gours, is embellished
with a Monument of the Republic (1890). A bronze figure of the
Republic, by Paynot, rises from a lofty pedestal surrounded by
groups representing Liberty , Efuality , and Fraternity. Thence we
follow the Rue Victor Hugo, crossing the Place Ampere (with a
statue of the physicist Ampere; 1775-1836), to the Place Bellecour
in the centre of the town. Behind the Place Ampere is the —
Chureh of 8t. Kartin d'Ainay (PL C, 5), founded in the 6th
cent., rebuilt in the Romanesque style in the 10th and 11th cent., and
afterwards altered. The facade, which is ornamented with lozenge-
shaped inlaid work , contains three doorways with pointed arches,
and a square tower with four acroteria at the base of the spire.
There is also a very low square central tower, which is supported by
four large ancient columns.
The nave and inner aisles are vaulted and supported by columns ; the
outer aisles were added in the 12th or 13th century. The apses are de-
corated with paintings of Christ and various saints on a gold ground, by
aipp. Flandrin. In the floor of the choir is a mosaic of the time of
rascal II. (1099-1118)^ the high-altar in gilt bronze and the fine mosaic
on which it stands are both modem. In the chapel of the Virgin, to the
right, are a carved altar bv Fabisch and a Virgin by Bonnatsieux. At the
beginning of the aisle on tlie left is a fine doorway belonging to the oldest
church (oth cent.).
The Plaee Bellecour (PL D,5), the fashionable promenade of
the town, is embellished with an equestrian Statue of Louis XIV,,
by Lemot (1775-1827). A military band plays here every evening in
fine weather (adm. to the enclosure, 50 c). The large buildings on
the W. and E. sides are the Registry Office and Central Post Office.
At No. 12 Rue Sala, near this Place , is the small Mutie de la Fropa-
gation de la Foi^ containing objects sent home by missionaries (open free
daily, 9-11 and 1-4^ on Sun. and holidays, 12-3). Catalogue.
NotTt-Dame de Fouwiere. LYONS. ///. Route 3A, 231
Next to the Post Office are the Church and Hotpice de la Charite
(1217 beds), founded by Kl^berger, known as 4e bon Allemand%
and erected early In the 17th century.
At the N.E. corner of the Place begin two magnificent modern
streets, the Sue de la R/publique , leading to the Place de la Co-
m^die, and the Rue de VHotel^de' Ville, extending to the Place des
Terreaux (p. 233).
If the weather is clear, which unfortunately is not always the case
in Lyons , we turn to the left by the Rue de Bellecour , in order to
enjoy the view from Fourviere , and in passing we glance at the
lively and picturesque banks of the Sadne. The winding course of
this river is crossed by 13 bridges, to which a huge railway-viaduct
is about to be added. The Rhone is spanned by 9 bridges (comp.
pp. 238, 239). The church on the right is the Cathedral (see p. 232).
At the end of the Avenue de I'Archevech^, beyond the Pont de Til-
ntt (PI. C, D, 4), is the unpretending Qa^e de St, Just^ for the Fictllei
of Fourviere and St. Just (see p. 228). If we proceed by train we
save time and avoid a fatiguing ascent (for other routes, see p. 232).
The Fourviere Hill, which is bounded on the N. and £. by the
Sadne, is formed by a spur of granite on which a moraine has been
deposited to a depth of 120 ft.
The *Gliurcli of Notre-Bame df Fourvitoe (PL C, 4), although
heavy and of doubtful taste , is remarkable for its originality, and
presents a massive appearance when viewed from a distance. The
style is a modernized Byzantine, by Bossan (d. 1888). The churcb,
begun in consequence of a vow made by the clergy of Lyons during
the war of 1870-71, was consecrated in 1896. The apse, on the
side towards the town, with a semicircular gallery (from which a
blessing is pronounced upon the town annually on Sept. 8th), is
flanked by polygonal towers, each terminating in a sort of crown.
Instead of buttresses there are four square half-towers, and on each
side of the W. front are towers as at the apse. The facade also has a
rich portico with four granite monolithic columns, 27 ft. high, sup-
porting a kind of frieze by Dufraine (relating to the plague of 1643
and the war of 1870). An opening in the platform leads direct to the
crypt, dedicated to St. Joseph, which extends below the whole build-
ing and is decorated with mosaics. The * Interior, which has bluish-
grey marble columns in the nave and red marble columns in the
choir, is gorgeously decorated with mosaics, painting, and gilding.
We may ascend the tower (160ft. high; 316 steps) to the left of
the choir, where there is a disk indicating the chief objects in view
(50 c. each person). In clear weather the *Panorama is superb, ex-
tending over more than 120 M. and em bracing, besides the whole
town and its environs, to the £. the Alps as far as Mont Blanc, 96 M.
distant as the crow flies , in the direction of the right-hand corner
of the Place Bellecour, to the S.£. the Alps of Dauphin^, to the S.
the C^vennes, and to the W. the mountains of Auvergne.
232 ///. BouU 3S, LYONS. Cathedral.
The ChapeUe de Notre- Dame de FourvUre, by the side of the
new church, is a comparatively modern edifice, without architectural
interest, but much frequented by pilgrims. It contains a black
image of the Virgin, and its walls are entirely covered with votive
offerings. From the top of the tower (25 c.) there is a fine view.
At tbe end of the Rue du Juge de^Paix (PI. B, i) are some remains
of a Roman Aqueduct; and in the Place de Ghoulans (PL B,5) are Ave
Roman Tombs (1st cent. A. D.), which were discovered on the site of
the St. Just station. — To the W. of the hill is the CenuUrjf of Lopasie
(PI. B,4)^ to the S. the OranU SSminairt.
The shortest and most pleasant descent from Notre -Dame de
Fourviere is by the Passage du Rosaire (6 c), a winding and shady
path bordered by 15 small monuments after Bossan with coloured
high-reliefs by Fabisch , representing the mysteries of the Rosary.
The path brings us out into the oaniage-road, the *Mont^e 9t. Bar-
th^lemy', on the other side of which a flight of 242 steps (the
'Monttfe des Ghazeaux') leads directly to the cathedral.
The Mont^e des Angea, to the left (K.) of the ahurch of Fourviere,
leads past the Tour MitalUque (PI. C, 4), a miniature of the Tour Eiifel
(view; adm. 50 e.), to the ^Montee des Ciarmes\ by which we may descend
to the Font de la Feuillee (PL D, 3) and the Place des Terreaux.
The *Oat]iedna of 8t. Jean (PI. G, 4), at the foot of the Fourviere
hill, dates from the i2-15th cent, and is the most remarkable church
in Lyons and one of the most interesting in France. The W. front
has three doorways, the statues of which hare been destroyed; above
these are a gallery, a Flamboyant rosewindow, and two towers
without spires completed at the end of the i5th century. There are
two other to'ijirers at the ends of the transepts. The most remarkable
part of the interior is the choir, the arches and windows of which
present a combination of the Romanesque and Gothic styles. The
former is found also in the transepts.
The Novo is remarkable for its puritv and elegance of outline, though
the W. bays belong to the 15th cent, and difl'er somewhat from the rest,
which are of the 14th. The windows, as well as those in the choir, con-
tain magnificent glass of the 13th and 14th cent., and also fine modem
glass. On the right is seen first a long low ehapel belongins to the
Maneeanterie. Kext is the *Chap*l of St. LouU or tbe £ourbM ChapH^ a
magnificent work of the 15th cent., due to Cardinal de Bourbon and his
brother Pierre, son-in-law of Louis XI. Among the works of art must
be mentioned the modern marble statues of Bt. John and St. Stephen,
and the archbishop's stall, also modem, after Bossan, in the choir; an
astronomical clock of the 16 -17th cent, (recently restored) in the left
transept, which should be seen at 12, 1, or 2 o'clock; a copy of Domeni-
chino's Martyrdom of St. Bartholomew, in the 5th ehapel on the left; and
a modern marble pulpit after Gheaavard, in the nave. The two pro-
cessional crosses at the back of the high-altar have remained there since
1374, the date of the second CBcumenical Council of Lyons (the first having
been held in 1245), as a sign of the union of the Qreek and Latin Churehes,
an object which was only partially attained by the (^unciL
The *Man€ca»terie or Ghoristers' Building (Lat., mane eantare,
to sing in tbe morning), to the right of the W. front of the cathedral,
has a curious facade of the 11th cent, with inlaid work and areadlng.
It has unfortunately been mutilated and badly restored.
mtel de VaU. LYONS. 111. RouU 35. 233
The Bute St. Jean, leading to the N. from the cathedral, contains
several interesting old houses, and passes the Palais de JtLstice
(PI. 0, 4), a heavy building of 1835.
The bridge close by brings us to the Quai des OAestins on the
left bank , on which is the Th^dtre des Celestins (PI. D , 4). — A
little to the left we reach the Place des Jacobins (PI. D , 4), em-
bellished in 1880 with a charming marble *Fimntain^ in the Re-
naissance style, by G. Andr^, with statues of Delorme, Guill. Coustou,
Aadran, and Hippolyte Flandrin (all natives of Lyons), by De-
george. — In the Rtte MercQre and other streets in this quarter
are numerous interesting old houses (i6-17th cent.).
The Church of St. Niiier (PI. D, 3) is the ancient cathedral,
rebuilt in the Gothic style in the 15th cent, except the central portal,
an addition of the 16th cent, by Phi'. Delorme. The modern statues
on the W. front are by Fabisch and Bonnasleux (Virgin). The fine
spire of the S. tower is also modern. The interior contains some
good modern works of art and stained - glass windows by CI. La-
vergne. The crypt under the choir dates from the 6th century.
The Rue de THotel-de-Y Ule , passing on the left the Palais St.
Pierre or des Arts (see below), ends at the —
*H6tel de Villa (PI. D, 3), a handsome edifice, built by Sim. Mau-
pin of Lyons (1646-55), burnt in 1674, restored in 1702 by ff. Man-
iordy and in 1853 by Desjardins. The principal facade, in the Place
des Terreaux (see below) , is richly decorated with a modern eques-
trian statue of Henri IV by Legendre - H^ral, and sculptures by Fa-
bisch, Bonnaire, and Bonnet. Behind rises the singular eloek-
tower to the height of 130 ft. The front facing the Place de la
Gom^die (p. 238), rebuUt by Mansard, is more elegant and less pre-
tentious. The interior is also interesting. In the vestibule are
colossal bronze statues of the Saone and Rhone, by N. and G. Coustou,
formerly at the foot of the statue of Louis XIV. in the Place Bellecour.
The Place des Terreaux (PI. D, 3) , next in importance to the
Place Bellecour, was constructed on the bed of an ancient Roman
canal between the Rhone and the Sadne and takes its name from the
heaps of mould ('terreaux') that had to be removed.
It was here that in 1642 Cinq-Hars and De Thou were beheaded by
Kieheliea*8 orders on a charge of treason, and that in 1794 the guillotine
was at work, until it was found to be too slow for the number of victims
and grape-shot took its place.
The *FoKTAiiTB Babtholdi, erected here in 1892 and named after its
sculptor, has a large leaden group representing the Rivers and the Springs
f>n their way to the Ocean.
The Palais St. Pierre or dea Arts (PI. D,3), on the S. side of the
Place, is a huge building of the i8th cent., restored in 1879. It
formerly belonged to the Dames Benedictines , and their fine refec-
tory has been preserved (see p. 234). In the centre is a pleasant
public garden, surrounded by projecting colonnades , formerly the
234 IIL Moute 36.
LYONS.
PcUaU dea Arta^
cloisters. — The important "'MusiBS whicli the building eontains,
together with the School of Art and the Library, comprise a Qallery
of Paintings, a Sculpture Gallery, a Collection of Antiquities, Af «-
dicBval, and Renaissance Objects, a Collection of Inscriptions, and
a Natural History Collection, The first three are open daily, except
Hon., 9 to 4 or 5, the others on Sun. and Thurs., 11-4, or to stran-
gers daily (fee). As it is difficult to see all in one Tisit, the visitor
who has not much time is recommended to see first the pictures on
the second floor, then the antiquities, etc. Catalogue (1899), 1 fr.
Ground Fi/OOS.
In the Vestibule are reliefs representing Strength and Law, by DifboU
from the monument of Napoleon I., formerly in the Place Perraehe (p. SdO).
The Collection of Inaoriptiona (MtuSe Epigraphique) ^ in the former
cloisters, contains ancient inscriptions, fragments of sculpture, stelae,
sarcophagi, altars, terracotta Yases , etc. Explanatory notices and trans-
lations are exhibited in frames on the opposite pillars. The eoUeetion of
inscriptions, which all belong to the locality , is both in size and in im-
portance the most valuable in France.
PI ac e de s
r r e a. u x
Sculpture Gal-
lery, On the For-
UeoeM are antique
^ bas-reliefs and me-
dallions of famous
natives of Lyons.
— In the QASDau
is a fountain, with
a statue of Apollo,
by Yietty. Among
the other bronze
statues are works
by Delhomme^ Oug-
noi^ Duret, Court4t,
Deichampty Legem-
dre-Hiraly and De-
lorme. — The Gal-
lery is opposite
the entrance, on
the other side of
the garden. —
Vestibolb. An-
cient architectural
fragments.
Boom I (to the right). Medieeval and Renaissance sculptures, architectural
ornaments, reliefs, statues, etc. 8. Statue of a kneeling abbot (Burgundiaa
work^ i5thcent.)^ 4. Noah^ 5. Bas -relief of a recumbent woman (i4th
ceut.)i 13. Painted relief in stone (Lyons work-, 16th cent.)*, 16. Medallion
of the Baron de Hontal (l6th cent.); 18, 19. Chimney-pieces (16th cent.);
20. Italian bust of St. Peter (12th cent.) ; *25. School of Donatello, Children
with musical instruments (terracotta; l6th cent.); 28. Venetian relief (15th
cent.); 39. Mino da Fiesole^ Bust of John the Baptist (15th cent.) ; 30. At-
tributed to RoiselUno (Idth cent.), Virgin and Child, in a rich frame. —
Boom II. 2. Orseco -Phoenician mummy-shaped sarcophagus ; Roman sarco-
phagi (the best No. 3 on the left, with a representation of the Triumph of
Bacchus); cinerary urns ; a Roman altar by the window ; 1. Fragment of an
archaic statue of Aphrodite from Marseilles (6th cent. B. C). — Boom 111.
Modern sculptures, Viy Legendre-Hiral^ Fabiuhy Delorme^ Pradier^ Delaplanehe^
/aiMon, ViettVt Cortot, CfUnard, Pailtz^ Schomwerk^ PolM, etc. — Boom IV,
to the right of the vestibule , is the original R^eetory of the Dames de
PalaiB det Arts, LYONS. II L Route 36, 235
St. Pierre, remarkable for the lifesize reliefs by Sim. GuiH<$um«y represent-
ing Saints and Biblical seenes , and the two large paintings at the ends
by P. L. Critey^ Feeding of the Multitude and the Laat Supper, all of the
itth century. It contains two ancient mosaics, and busts (labelled) of
about 55 distinguished natives of Lyons. — The small door at the end,
to the left, leads to staircase £ (see Plan), ascending to the piet«re-gal-
lery (see below).
FiBST Floor.
Piotare Gallery {Mutit de Petmiurt). — Staircase (PI. E) at the end of
the transverse gallery to the left of the entrance to the Palais. Room I
(to the left). 98. Ph. de Champaigne^ Exhumation of SS. Qervasins and
Protasius; 47. Sdtso/errmto^ Virgin; 28. Giordano y Binaldo and Armida;
321. Jonvenety Mary Magdalen; 381. Le Sueur^ Martyrdom of SS. Qervasius
and Protasius. On the floor, Roman mosaics, as in the three following
rooms. — Rooms II -IT (Oalerie Paul Ghenavard). 256. E. CharpemHer^
Bonaparte crossing the St. Bernard. This gallery contains the Cartoows
designed bv the Lyons artist P. Ghenavard (d. 18^) for the Pantheon
at Paris after the Revolution of February, but not executed owing to
the restoration of the building to divine service. The designs (not all
exhibited on the walls) illustrate the history of civilisation from the
Creation to the French Rerolntion, and are distiagviahed by dignity of
conception and clearness of composition. — At the end we retntee our
steps to inspect the —
O-AusRiE DC SIX® SiftcLB, i. t. the rooms to the right as we aseend
the stairease. — Room V. 319. F. Humbert^ Maternity ; 263. Court, Flood;
13. C. Caliari (son of Paolo Veronese), Queen of Cyprus entering Venice
in state ; 288. E. Dubu/e^ Adoration of the angels. — Room VI. Paintings
of little importance. — Room VII. Casts. — Room VIII. 272. DauHgny^ Sea-
piece *, 256. Corot^ Landscape ; 337. MarWiaU Edge of a forest ; 390. Troyon,
Cattle; 288. Drolling^ The Good Samaritan; 296. /'romen/, Omphale; 300.
Baron Oirard, Corinna at the Cape of Misenum; 276. Delacroix, Odalisque ;
276. David^ Market-gardener (study). — Room IX. 274. £. Delacroix, Last
moments of Marcus Aurelius ; 254. Charlet, Episode on the retreat from
Moseow; 660. Ricard, Portrait; 356. De Pinelli, Exchange at Perugia in the
15th cent. ; 302. Oigoux, Martyrdom of St. Agatha ; 329. J. Lefehvre^ Nymph
and Bacehus; 363. Prud'hon^ Woman and children; 373. Riesener^ Toilet
of Venus. In the centre is an antique mosaic. — Room Z, to the left.
257, 258, 259, 391. Landscapes by Corot, Courbet^ and Van Mar eke; 313.
Guillaumei, Evening- prayer in the Sahara; 316. Benuer^ Creole; 262. Courbety
Lovers. — Room IX. De Vries, Meuu, Momper, etc.. Landscapes; Unknown
Master^ Virgin and Child, with angels; 388. Toepffer^ Restoration of public
worship after the Revolution ; 365. Raoux, Portrait ; 154. Ommeganck, Horse-
pond; 37. Piazsetta, Cream-eaters; 88. Brekelenkam, Gobblers; 172. J. van
Ruytdael (?), Landscape ; 36. Panini, Ruins ; 272. Dagnan-Bouveret^ Wedding-
party at a photographer's ; IM. Mengt, Cardinal Archinto.
^Kuaeum of Antiquities. This adjoins the preceding museum and
has a separate staircase in the cloisters, to the left of the entrance. —
Sallbdbs Mbdaillbs. Rich collection of medals; marble frieze represent-
ing suovetaurilia (sacrifices of a pig, sheep, and ox); masks, fragments
of statues, etc. — Salle dbs Antiques. *Terracottas from Tanagra and
Asia Minor; antique vases and glass; statuettes and Egyptian sarcophagi.
The glass-cases contain golden ornaments, cameos, bronzes, mirrors, etc.
70. Portable brasier (foculus), from Vieune ; 59. Bronze head of Junu ;
49. Bronze statue of Jupiter. By the adjoining windows: 67, 66. Bronze
heads of Domitian and Vespasian. — A small room to the left contains
the *Claudian Bronze Tablets, found in 1528, and bearing a large part of
the speech pronounced by the Emperor Claudius in approval of tbe de-
mand made by Gallia Comata to have the right uf sending members to
the Roman Senate.
GoUeotion of Xediasval and Renaaaaaaoe Objects. — Room XII. Italian
vases, statuettes, and bronze busts (16th cent.) ; French and Italian med-
236 IIL RmUe 36*
LYONS.
Palais dei Arts,
allions and plaqnettes (16 -17th cent.); works in bronze and iron (15-
16th cent.); 41. Byzantine bronze plaquette (9th or 10th eent.)*, ehesta;
weapons. ~ Room XIII. About 40 magnifieent Limoges enamels, besides «
triptych (No. 232)
Place d<?«T<*rreaux
^^ I I.
tibliotheoueliri 16 U .i J2.Anll<rues
27
with '£{ more ,
chureh ornaments
and plate of the
15th and 16th eent.*.
Oriental and other
weapons of the 14-
18th eent. ; lock-
smith's work of
the 15- 17th eent.;
16th eent. furni-
ture.—Room XIV.
180-186. Swiss cry-
stal (16th eent.);
65. Oothie eande-
labnim(16Ch cent .) ;
furniture of the
16th century. —
Room XV (to the
left of Room XIV).
Various medianral
and Benaiasanee
sculptures, includ-
ing two Italian
painted wooden statues (14th eent.)^ representing the Virgin and the Angel
of the Annunciation-, panels. — Room XVI. Furniture; door of carved
wood of the 16th eent. ; fine carved ivory (6ih and 14-16th cent.). —
Room XVII. Japanese, Moorish, Dutch, Italian, and French porcelain
and pottery, including two large bowls of Palissy ware.
The Mdsbum op Natural Histokt is on the other side of the main
staircase, in the corner of the right wing, on the first and second floors.
The first floor is devoted to mineralogy and geology, the second to soology,
anthropology^ and palseontology.
The JAhrary (open daily, except 8nn., 10-3 and 6-9; Sat. 10-3) ocen-
pies the first floor between the collections of natural history and of
antiquities. It numbers about 60,000 vols., and is especially rich in
works on art, science, industry, and archeeology. It contains also about
90,000 engravings and drawings. — The second floor on this side is oc-
cupied by the Ecole det Beaux-Arts.
Secokd Floor.
Picture Gallery (continued). — At the top of the staircase are ^Paint-
ings by Fuvi$ de Chavannes; Sacred Grove of the Muses, Vision, Christian
Inspiration.
*Orbat Gallbrt. From left to ri^ht: 232. Oirard David ^ Tree of
Jesse; 399. French School (JSth eent.)^ Guillaume de Montmorency; 96. B.
Bruyn, Portrait; 206-209. Oertnan School (16ih cent.)^ Bearing of the Cross,
Descent from the Cross, Trinity, Death of the Virgin; 106. After Al-
bert Dilrer^ Emperor Maximilian I. and his wife kneeling before the
Virgin with the infant Jesus, etc., a copy with variations of an ex-voto
painting at Prague (to the right is the artist, with an inscription); 2*29,
230. Flemish School (15th cent.)^ Death and Coronation of the Virgin; 64.
Ferrarete School (16th cent.) St. Jerome; 207. Barlv Oertnan School^ De-
scent from the Cross; 139. School o/Matsyt^ Ecce Homo. — 20. L. Carraeci^
Baptism of Jesus; 29. After Oiotto^ The Navicella, an early copy with
variations of the mosaic in the portico of St. Peter's at Rome ; 22. A. Otr-
racci, A canon; *45. Tintoretto, Danae; Paolo Veronese ^ 11. Bathsheba, 10.
Finding of Moses ; 12. After P. Veronese, Adoration of the Magi; 56. An-
drea del Sarto, Abraham's Sacrifice (copy of the painting at Dresden); P*-
Palai$ des Arts. LYONS. Ifl. Route 36. 237
rugino , *56. The Ascension ^ one of the magter's fine«t works , *59. 88.
HereuUnus and James the Greater; 44. Tintoretto^ Virgin and Child with
saints ; 36. Palma Qiovanty Scourging of Christ : 331. After MemUng, Virgin
and Child-, 34. Paltna Veechio, Portrait; 24. L. Costay Holy Family; 18. Eaf-
faelUno del Garbo , 296. Italian School (16th cent.), 333 (retouched) H. Mem-
ling ^ Portraits; 60. DomeniehinOy Angelica and Medora; 72. Zurbaran^ 6t.
Francis of Assisi ; 70. Ribera^ Saint in ecstasy ; 68. Cano, Descent from the
Cross ; 18^7. Teniera tJte Younger^ Deliverance of St. Peter; 79. A. van Beyeren^
Still-life; 109. Van Dyek, Study of heads; 168. Dutch School Cnot Terburg)^
The message ; *159. P. Potter^ Animals; 167. Rubens^ Adoration of the Magi
(ea. 1618); 112. P. Dubordien (not Van den Eeckhoui), Portrait (1656); 140.
/. van Ruysdael (?), The brook; 130. De Heem, Fruit; 75. Becks, Portrait;
Jordaene, 131. Adoration of the Magi, 130. Visitation; 103. De Grayer, St.
Jerome. — 132. Jordaene, Mercury and Argus; Qi.P.Bol, 144. Van Miere-
velt. Portraits; *166. Rvbent, St. Francis, St. Dominic, and other saints
preseryiag the world from the wrath of Christ ; 156. /. ran Oo»t, A young
man receiving a note; 101. J. B. de Champaigne^ Adoration of the Shep-
herds. — 143. Mierevelt, 100. Ph. de Champaigne, Portraits; 178. Seghert,
Flowers; 155. Van Oost, Old man; 190. W. van de Velde, Sea-piece; 195.
S. de Vo» , Portrait of the artist (copy) ; 118. Everdingen, Landscape ; 119.
De Heem, The Prince of Orange, afterwards William III. of England;
*153. Jan van Noordt, Young nobleman ; 136. i9. Koninck , The young To-
bias and his wife; 189. TerAtfrj^, Portrait ; 114. Jooti van Oeel, Sea-piece;
97. Corn. Jantien van Ceulen^ Portrait; 12^, 127. J. vctn ffuysum. Flowers;
171. /. van Ruysdael, Norwegian scene; 77. Berck-Heyde, The Groote Markt
at Haarlem ; 179. Snyders, Dead game ; 196, 197. Corn, van der Voort, Joost
Baeck and his wife; 117. Fr. Hals (?). The painter Stella, of Lvons; 129.
Dujardin, Shepherd watching his flock ; 200. Weenix, Flowers ; 116. /. van
Hagen, Forest -scene; 125. Suysmans^ Landscape; 115. /. van Qoyen, Hut
by the sea 3 320. Jouvenet, Expulsion of the money-changers; 15. Canale,
Venice; 344, 343. Monnoyer, Flowers; 376. Rigaud, P. Drevet, the engraver;
332. Jouvenety St. Bruno; *335. LargilUhre, Jean Thierry the sculptor; 340.
Honnoyer, Flowers; 349. Le Nain , Portrait; 260. Lebrun, Clemency of
Louis XIV. ; 245. Bourdon, Portraits ; 395a. S. Vouet, Portrait of the artist ;
298. Claude Lorrain, Sea-piece ; 375, 374. Rigaud, Portraits ; 306. Oreuze, Lady
bountiful; 339. Mignard, Portrait of the artist; 282. Desportes, Animals
and fruit.
The Galebie des Lyowais, beside the preceding, contains paintings
by native artists. — Room 1 : 632. Rey, Vienne in the Roman period ; 42kB.
James Bertrand, Conversion of St. Thais. — To the right is a room con-
taining drawings and water-colours. — R. II: 476. GhaUgny, Celebrated
Lyonese; 489. Corntiy Augustus granting a charter to Gaul; *631. Puvis de
Chavannes, Autumn. — R. Ill : 054. Ouindrand, Landscape ; 642. St. Jean,
Emblems of the flucharist; 455. Bonne/ond, The wicked landlord; 572.
Jantnot, Meadow- flowers; 458. Bonnefond, Holy water; 599. Orsel, Adam
and Eve with Abel ; 643. St. Jean, OflFering to the Virgin ; 414. Bail, The
village-band of Bois-le-Roi; 620. Ponthus-Oinier, The wood-cutters; 652.
Sieard, On the Pont de Guilloti^re (p. 238>; 617. Foncet, Flute-player. —
499. Biardy Sibyl; 595. Montessuy, Fete of Cervara in the Apennines; 459.
Bonnefond, Jaequard ; 586. Lortet, Mont Blanc ; 498. Dubuisson, Canal horses ;
Meissonier, 594. Chenavard (p. 236), 593. General Championnet ; 487. Comte,
Henri de Guise swearing to avenge the murder of his father; 513. Hipp.
^ondrifi, Dante in Hell; 515. Paul Flandrin, Brothers of mercy; 619.
Ponthus-Giniery Landscape.
The Church of 'St. Ptter (Pl.D,3), in the Rue Paul Chenavard,
beside the Palais des Arts, dates from the 17th cent. , with the ex-
ception of a Romanesque portal of the 9th.
A short distance to the N.W. of the Place des Terreaux is the Place
Satbomat (Pi. D,3), embellished with a bronze statue, by Foyatier, of
Jaequard (1752- IS34), inventor of the Jaequard loom. — A little farther
on is the former Jardin des Plantety now a square, and to the right are
238 It I. Route 86. LYONS. Palais de la Bourse.
the Oares de la Groix-RouMe (pp. 227, 228). — The aninteresting quarter of
La Croix-Rous$ey on the eminenee to the N. of the town, is chiefly inhabited
by workmen in the silk-factories, who are popularly known as OanuU.
To the E. of the Hotel de Ville is the small Place de la Come'-
die, in front of the Grand Thedtre (PI. E, 3), with arcades occu-
pied by shops.
We now enter the Rue de la Republiqu^, which runs parallel
with the Rue de l'H6tel-de-Ville , from the Place de la Comddie to
the Place Bellecour (p. 230). This street, constructed in 1855-56, is
one of the handsomest in Lyons.
ThePalftis de la Bourse et da Commerce (PL D, 3, 4) Is a striking
Renaissance edifice, built In 1853-60 by Dardel. The square cen-
tral court, in which members of the Bourse meet for business (11-
12.30), is enclosed by two-storied colonnades. The painted ceiling
is supported by 24 wooden caryatides , by Bonnet. The statues of
the Elements and the Seasons under the arcades are by Bonnaa-
sieux, FabUch, and Roubaux; those of the Present, Past, and Future
on the clock are by Bonnassieux. — It was on leaving this Palais
that President Oarnotwas assassinated in 1894.
On the second floor is the *Xus6e Historidue dei TiuTu, open to the
public on Sun., Thurs., and holidays from if to 4, and to strangers on
other days also (fee). The entrance is in the K. facade, in the Place
de la Bourse. The museum, which has a special library, occupies
16 rooms or galleries, with specimens, models, etc., illustratire of the
art of weaving in all countries and at all periods from antiquity to the
present day. The room illustrating the Lyons silk-industry during the
present century is particularly interesting.
The second facade of the Bourse fronts the Place des Cordeliers,
in which rises the Church of St. Bonaventura (PI. E,4), of the
15th cent., with finely coloured windows, by Steinheil, Thlbaud,
Lorin, etc. — Behind the church passes the fine new Rue du Prfei-
dent Carnot, running from the Pont Lafayette (p. 239) to join the
Rue de la R^publique at the Place de la R^publique (PL D, 4). In
this Place rises aMonament to President Carnot, by Oaiiquie {1900).
Turning to the left at the Place Bellecour (p. 230), we reach the
right bank of the Rhone, which presents an imposing view with its
broad quays and busy bridges. The nearest of the latter is the Pont
de la Oidllotiere (PL E, 5), one of the oldest in Lyons, dating back
to the 13th century.
It leads to the Pla,cb Ra.8Pail, with bus<8 of Ra$pail^ the demoeratie
leader, and Capt. Ed. 27U«r«, who distinguished himself at Bel fort in
I8i0-71. — Lower down is the Pont duKidi (PI. D, 6), rebuilt in 1888-91.
On the left bank* between these bridges, in the uninteresting quarter of
La GuilloMre^ are the FaculU de Mldedne et de Pharmacie (PI. E, 6), the
new FaculU de Droits and the Ec^le de Santd MUUaire.
To our left, on the right bank, rises the huge Hdtel Dieu or
Hospital (PI. D, E, 5, 4), originally founded in the 6th century. The
present facade was designed by Soufflot. Above the portal are sta-
tues of Ring Chtldebert and his queen.
Pare de la Tete d'Or, LYOKS. ///. Route 35. 239
The Pont de VH6tel-Dieu leads to the quarter of the left bank
above La Gnillotiere (p. 238). The Pr6feoture (PI. E, 4), in the
Cours de la Libert^, near the bridge, is a large and handsome Re-
naissance building, erected in 4880-90 from designs by A. Louviir.
The principal part is occupied by assembly and reception rooms,
richly decorated, but accessible by special permission only. At the
sides and back are the prefect's apartments, the archives, and offices.
A little higher up, on the Quai de la Gnillotiere, is a handsome
Protestant Vhwrch (PI. E,4), in the Romanesque style, by G. Andr^.
Adjacent is a small place with a Statue of Bern, de jufsieu (1699-
1777), by P. Aubert (1892). — We now recros*. the Rhone by the
fine Pont Lafayette (PL E,4), rebuilt in 1888-90. A little farther
up, OB the right bank, is the Lycee (P1.E,3), containing the Muni-
cipallAbrary, of 100,000 vols, and 1600 MSS. (open daily, except
holidays, 10-4; entr.. Rue Gentil 27). Among the most precious
contents is a 6th cent. MS. of the first seven books of the Old Testa-
ment, part of which was found in 1895.
Beyond are the handsome PontMorand^ rebuilt in 1888-90,
and the Grand Tii^&tre (p. 238). Close by is the Place Tolozan (PI.
E, 3), embellished with a bronze statue, by Dumont, of Marshal
Swc/ief (1772-1826). — In the neighbouring Place de la Croix-P^quet
is the new Ficelle de la Croix - Rousse^ (p. 228).
On the opposite bank of the Rhone is the fashionable modern
quarter of Lei Brotteaux , among the handsome edifices of which
may be mentioned the Church of St. Pothinus (PI. F, 3), the Monu-
ment (PI. F, 3) to the victims of the siege of 1793, and the unfinished
Church of the Redemption (PI. E, F, 2).
The circular space in front of the entrance to the Pare de la
Tete d'Or (PI. E, 1) is embellished with the Monument des Enfants
du Rhone ^ erected in memory of 1870-71. The sculptures are by
Pagny (1887), the general design by Coquet.
The ♦Pare de la T6te d'Or (P1.F,G,1,2), a fine park of 280
acres, including a lake, dates from 1856 and occupies a site once
covered with marshes, but now protected from the destructive floods
of the Rhone by an immense dike. On the E. bank of the lake
stands a chalet-restaurant (PL LI, 1). The portion of the park farthest
from the river has been formed into Zoological and Botanical
Gardens. The hothouses contain fine collections of orchids, palms,
and other exotics. The Conservatoire Botanique, containing the
botanical collections of the Museum (p. 234), is open daily, except
Sun., 8-12 and 2-6. The railway to Geneva skirts the E. side of
the park.
Environs. An agreeable excursion may be made by railway (p. 198),
tgmway (No. 15 ^ p. 228), or, better still, by steamer on the Saone to the
(31/3 H.) lie Barb« (p. 198), on which are some remains of a convent and
castle of the ll-l&tb centuries. Fetes C Vogues') are celebrated here on Easter
Monday and> Whit-Monday. Th« island is connected by a bridge with St. Ram-
^«r<, on the right bank, which has a Romanesque ehuroh, reeentiy restored.
240 111. Route 36. LYONS. Envirant.
Another intereBting excursion may be made to the Kent A'Ox, to the
N., with its three principal summits, JHont Ceindre (1590 ft.), Mont Houx
or Montou (9005 ft.) , and Moni Verdun (2060 ft.) , commanding 6ne riews.
The last two summits are, however, occupied by fortifications and in-
accessible to the public. A tramway (Ifo. IB, p. 238*, fares 50, 25 e.) pliea
every 1/2 hr. from the Pont Mouton (PI. A, 2) to St. Oyr-au-Mont-d^Or.
Thence Mont Ceindre (restaurant on the top) may be ascended in 40 mi-
nutes. We may return by train from Gouzon (p. 108).
From Lyons to Dijon (and Paris), see B. 30; to Avignon ^ R. 64; to
Nime$^ R. 6!^- to Aix-Ut- Bain$ and Chambiry y R. 48; to Grenoble ^ B. 55
to Clermont-Ferrand and Bordeaux^ R. 36.
From Ltoks to Montbrison, 49 H., railway in 3V4'3iAhr8. (fares
8 fr. 85. 5 fr. 95, 3 fr. 90 c). — The train starts from the <?ar« St. Paul
(PI. G, 3). — 51/3 M. COiarboBniteea (Buffet; B6t. de VEmropei mt. dee Baine ;
Cheval Blanc ; H6t. de la Jeune France), a picturesquely situated village
with a cold chalybeate spring and a casino, much frequented by the
Lyonnais. — 141/2 K> L'Arbreale is also a station on the line from Roanne
to Lyons (see p. 204). — The line now ascends the vallev of the Brivtnne.
— About IV4 M. to the N.E. of (16 M.) Sain-Bel is the village ot Savignjf^
formerly celebrated for its abbey, of which few traces now remain. Much
copper is produced in this district. — Beyond (31 M.) MejfM we quit the
valley of the Br^venne, and enter that of the Anfieux. — 87 M . Bellegmrde-
St-Qalmier, 41/3 M. from St. Oalmier (p. 204). — 39l/s H. Kontrond, see
p. 204. We now cross the Loire and traverse a plain studded with ponds.
— 49 M. Monibriton, see p. 246.
From Ltovs to Trbvoux, 16 M., railway in 1-1 V4 hr. (fares 2 fr. 90,
1 fr. 95, 1 fr. 30 e.). — The train starts from the Gare de la Croix-lUueee
(PI. D,2) and beyond (4Vs^-) Sathonay reaches the bank of the Sadne.
101/2 M. Neuville-tur- Sadne (p. 198). — 16 M. Trivoux, see p. 197.
From Ltoks to Morvakt and to Vauovbrat, 171/3 and 8I/3 H., local
railway starting from the Gare St. Just (p. 227). At (6 M.) Craponne it forks,
the left branch proceeding to (21/2 H.) Vaugneray (1960 inhab.), the right
branch to (11 1/3 M.) Xornant (Bi^et; Hotel du Nord, ete.), a town with
2050 inhab., dominated by the lofty Tour du Vingta/tn^ a relic of the 14th
cent, fortifications. A bridge here is one of the best -preserved arches
of the ancient Roman aqueduct from the Mont Pilat. — Ste. Catherine-
tout-Riverie^ 6 M. to the w., is a good centre for excursions to the ChAte-
lard (2685 ft.) and other points among the neighbouring mountains. The
old feudal village of RiveHe^ about V4 M. from Ste. (^therine, sUll
retains its ancient castle.
From Lyoms to Aostb - St - Obvix (St. Biron), 441/3 H., railway in 21/3-
31/4 hrs. (fares 5 fr. 95, 4 fr. 45, 3 fr. 25 e.). — This loeal line, starting
from its station in La Ouilloti^re (PI. G, 8), traverses a flat and uniiiter>
esting district to the S.E. of Lyons. — IV4 M. YiUenrbaime CVilla Urbana*)
is a kind of industrial suburb of Lyons, with 21,714 inhabitants. Near
it begins tha Canal de Jonage, constructed in 1894 to supply electrie power
to the manufactories of Lyons. — 11 M. Puaignan\ ISM. Janneffrimt^ both
with ruined castles. We cross the Bourbre. — 20 M. Orteien (AMrl
BouiUet) , a decayed town with 1694 inhab. , retains portions of its walls
dating from the 14-15th centuries. — From (241/3 M .} St- HUaire-de-Brene
a branch -line (6i/s M.) runs to JalUeu. — Near (36 M.) Trepi (Hdtel da
Nord) rises a medieval ehUteau. Beyond (28I/3 M.) Soteprnteu-aabUnmitre
diverges the line to Amb^rieu and Hontalieu (see p. 28S). — 441/3 M.
Aoste-St-Genix (Hdt. Labullv), officially styled 81. Genix-tur-OuierM^ is
an industrial village with ldl2 inhab. , about I1/4 M. from the town of
Aoete (p. 284). — A tramway, crossing the (Hiiers at Fon$-d€'Beam99iein
(p. 348), connects St. Oenix with St. B^ron (p. 348).
From Ltovs to Gbmbva, 10411., railway in 4-6 hrs. (fares 18 fr. 90,
12 fr. 80, 8 fr. 30 c). Best views to the left. All the trains staH from
the Gare de Perrache (p. 227). There is alto a speetal station for tho
Geneva traffie at Le$ BroUeamx, on the E., not far from the T2te d*Or
MONTLUgON. III. Route 36. 241
P&rk (p. 239), whence the trains depart 90-25 min. later than from Per-
raehe. — The trains, erossing the Rhone, skirt the S.E. side of the city.
To the left we see the church of Fourriere and then recross the Rhone.
51/a M . St. Clair , the last of the Lyons stations , where slow trains only
stop; lOi/s M. Miribel^ a manufacturing town of 3340inhab. , with a
ruined castle. We now quit the Rhone and (hen stop at St. Mauric€'d€'
Bepnost. 13 H. Btpnort; 16 H. Jfontluel^ another small manufacturing town,
with the remains of a very ancient castle; 24 M. Afexitnitux^ a small
town dominated by an 11th cent, castle (restored). About 2 If. farther
on we cross the Atn to (29 M.) Lefment. To the right is the chftteau of
La Strvette. We now approach the Jura Alps and cross the Aibarine. —
33 M. Amb4rieu and thence to to (104 H.) (7«B«va, see pp. 283-388.
36. From Lyons to Bordeaux.
a. yi4 Soanne, Montla^on, and Limoges.
388 H. Railway in 15-15l/a hrs. (fares about 70 fr. 65, 54 fr. 75, 31 fr.
15 c). — The trains start from the Gare de Perrache.
Lyons , see p. 227. — To (95 M.) St. Oermain-'des- Fosses , see
R. 30c; thence to (lOOVi M.) Oannat, see p. 210. -— Beyond Gan-
nat the line ascends to the left, with a fine view to the right^ then re-
descends, threads three tunnels, and crosses two viaducts, the latter
of which spans the SiotUe. The district traversed is varied, with a
succession of picturesque valleys and plateaux , more or less well-
wooded. — 115V«M. (from Lyons) St. Bonnet'de-Rochefort has a
fine 15th cent, ch&teau.
Branch to (71 /sM.) ChantMt^ see p. 306. This branch is continued in
the opposite direction to (41/2 M.) Ebrenil (Hdt. du Commeree: de la Potte)y
pietoresquely situated on the 8ioule, with an ancient abbey- church.
About 4Va M. beyond Ebreuil is the Ch6ieau de Veauee.
To the right is the chftteau of Ldgnat. 122 M. Bellenaves, with
a chjlteau of the 16th cent, and a church, mainly Romanesque. — ^
132 M. Lapeyrouse.
A Bbamch Limb runs hence to (61/2 H.) Bt. EI07 (4506 inhab.), with
imporiant eoal-mines. An omnibus plies from 8t. Eloy to the (I81/2 M.)
baths of ChOteauneu/ (p. 311), yia Menat and St. QervaU. — Railway to La
O^urehe via Villef^nche-d'AUier, see p. 198.
143 M. Commentiy (Hdtel du Bourbonnais) is a modern town
with 12,632 inhab., engaged in the large coal-mines and iron-works
of the vicinity.
Fbom CoMMBirrRT TO Mabcillat, 151/2 M., railway in continuation of
the line from Varennes, and to be prolonged to (71/2 H. farther to the W.)
^aux (p. 34d). — MareiUat has a 15th cent, ehiteau.
Branch -line to JfouUtu^ see p. 199; to Varenne»-»ur-AWer^ see p. 903.
145VtM. Chamblet'Neris, Omnibus to(3M.) N^ris (lfr.),see
P>242. The line descends a picturesque valley, at first well-wooded
but farther on flanked by bare and rocky heights.
151 Ve M. Xontlugon (Buffet; Hotel de France, Place deTHStel-
de-Ville; Grand Cerf), an industrial town with 35,095 inhab., is
situated on the Cher. It contains an important mirror-factory, besides
glass-works, large iron -works, etc., but is of little interest to tourists.
The ancient Castle (15-16thcent), which rises above the old town,
Baedeker. Southern France. 4th Edit. i6
242 IIL Route 36. ST. AMAND-MONT-ROND. From Lyons
Is better seen from a distance than from near at hand. It is now
used as barracks. The Hdtel de VUle was formerly a convent, the
cloisters being still recognizable. Notre- Dame, a much mutilated
church of the 13-15th cent., contains some old paintings of interest.
About 5M. to the S.E. is N^ris iQrand- H6tel^ new^ Qr. H6t. ds Paris;
RochetU; de la Promenade; Dumoulin)^ to which an omnibus plies from
the station ot Ghamblet (p. 341). The little town possesses thermal mineral
springs (two bath-establishments), known to the Bo mans, who have left
traces of a theatre and of a camp.
Fbom Moktlu^v to Bousobs, 691/2 M., railway in 2-31/9 brs. (farea
10 fr. 60, 7 fr. 5, 4 fr. 60 e.). This line descends the valley of the Cher. —
5 H. Let THllers. From (Ui/a M.) VaUon a diligence plies to (TVs M .) ^«
Hiriston (Hot. de la Ville). — dOi/2 M. Bt. Amand-Kont-Rond (Poste), a town of
8475 inhab., situated on the Aformaiide, beti^een the Oher and the Canal
du Berry, has an interesting Transition church. On a hill a little higher
up are the ruins of the Ghdteau de Mont-Rond^ which was taken by the
great Gond6 and dismantled in 1652, during the wars of the Fronde. From
St. Amand-Mont-Rond to La Ouerehe (Kevers), see p. 166. — This line is
continued to (21 M. ) Chdieaumeillant (p. 36) vi& (13 M.) Le ChdteUt, a
small town with a ruined ch&teau.
About 2 M. to the S. of (351/9 M.) La Celhe-Brubre is the old Ahbef «/
NoirlaCy of the 12- 15th cent., converted into a porcelain manufactory; and
4 M. to the N.E. is Mediant^ with a magnificent Kenaissanee '^Chdteau in
the same style as the Hotel de Jacques Cosur at Bourges.
44 M. ChAteauneuf- 8ur- Cher (Houton), a little town with a beautiful
castle of the Renaissance and a fine modern Gothic church. — We eros«
the Cher. — 541/2 M. St. Florent, a small town (3539 inhab.) on the Cher,
with iron-mines and factories in the neighbourhood. Branch to Issoudun,
see p. 33. — From (64 H.) Marmagne the direct Paris express eontinues
due N., without entering Bourges. — 691/9 M. Bourget^ see Baedeker's
Northern France.
Fbom Momtlucok to Aurillac, 142 M., railway in 6>/4-8i/4 hrs. (fares
35 fr. 85, 17 fr. 50, 11 fr. 4dc.). This line is a continuation of that running from
Bourges through the valley of the Cher. Best views to the left. — 14 M.
Budeliire-Chambon. The little village of Chambon^ 3M. to the S.W. (dili-
gence 60 c), possesses a pretty Romanesque and Transition church. We
next cross the *Viaduc de la Tardes^ 300 ft. high, spanning the picturesque
gorge of an affluent of the Cher. — I71/2 M. B«anz«lea-Bauu (H&t. de
VEtabliuement, R. 3^^, pens. 6I/2, omn. 1/2-V4 fr-; de V Europe; Upine;
de la Fontaine), a town of 3310 inhab., lies IV4 M. from the station and
possesses thermal springs, which were known to the Romans. — Beyond
(39 M.) Ldtrade the Honts Dome appear more distinctly. At (58 11.)
Eygurande - Xerlines (p. 249) the line joins the railway from Limoges to
Laqueuille (La Bourboule, p. 331) and Clermont-Ferrand (p. 349). — Our
line runs hence to the S. through the valley of the Chavanon, an afflueat
of the Dordogne, passing several small stations. — 80M. Bort (H&t. des
Votfageur»\ des Menageries), a picturesquely situated town with 3878 inhab.,
near which are the curious columnar basaltic formations known as the
Orguesde Bort, and the Saut de la Saule, a fine cascade of the Rhue. From
Bort a diligence plies to (30 M.) Condaten-Feniera (Valentin; Poste), in con-
nection with others thence to (17 M.) Besae (p. 335) and to (25 M.) Neus-
satgues (p. 355). — 851/3 M. Saignes-Ydes (hotels), the station for Fdcf
(hotels), a small watering-place with cold mineral springs. — The rail-
way ascends round the W. extremity of the MonU du Cantal. — 103 M.
Mauriao(3368ft. ; Ecu de France; deV Europe), an ancient town (3538 inhab.),
with a Romanesque church of the 13th century. — The railway soon begins
to descend vift (IOOI/3 H.) Drugeac, whence a diligenee (IV4 fr>) pUes to
(81/2 H.) the quaint l^tle town of %9Xsn (Hdtel Serre). — Beyond (113 M.)
Drignac - Ally we descend to the valley of the Maronne and reaeh an in-
teresting part of the line. — About 7 M. from (194 M.) ». IMde Ue« St,
Bordeaux. GUJ^RET. III. Route 36. 243
i (hotel), on the Doire, with a Romanesque ehoreli (fine wood-carv-
)f the 15th cent.). — At (131 M.) Miieaze we join the line from St.
-pres-Martel (p. 93) to (142 M.) Aurillac (p. ^).
*om Montlufon to Chdieatkroux and Tourty see pp. 36, 34.
3yond Montlu^on we cross the Cher. — From (169^8 M.) Za-
anche a branch -line runs to (23Vt M.) Champ illet-Urciers
). ISSVa M. Cressat, We cross the Creuse by a viaduct
t. in height. — IQOVa M. Busseau-d' Ahun (buffet).
(OmBussbau-d'Ahum TO Fellbtik, 221/3 M., railwayinli/jhr. This line
Is the valley of the Crense. — 151/2 M. Auhuasoa (Hdtel de France)y with
ihab., picturesquely situated, was the birthplace of Pierre d'Au-
I , grandmaster of the order of St. John of Jerusalem, who distin-
d himself by his successful defence of Rhodes against Mahomet II. in
Aubusson is noted for its carpets, the manufacture of which occupies
2(XX) hands. — 221/2 M. FeUetin (H6t. lotea), with 3120 inhab., is also
:d in the carpet industry.
•0 M. Oa6ret (Buffet, very plain ; Hot. de la Paix ; St. Fran-
with 7547 inhab., was the former capital of La Marche. The
?^t£re incorporates a private mansion (15-16th cent), errone-
said to have belonged to the Counts of La Marche. In the
de Ville is a small Musee of paintings, antiquities, and textile
s. — Branch-line to St. Siha^tien, see p. 35.
5 M. La Brionne, 3M. to the N.W. of which (diligence) is
%ury, with a church containing five beautiful bas-reliefs, in
, of the Passion (15th cent). — 215 M. Vieilleville.
branch -line runs from Vieilleville to (I21/2 M.) Bouryaaeuf (Hdtel
vmerce; Baule d'Or)^ an industrial town with 3524 inhab., manufac-
porcelain, hats, paper, etc. It contains the remains of a priory,
Lug a Tower in which Zizim (d. 1496), brother of Bajazet II., was im-
sd for several years.
0 M. Marsac. Then a tunnel 600 yds. in length.
S M. St. Snlpiee-LanriAre (Buffet) and thence to Ldmoges and
aux, see pp. 36 et seq.
V^i& St. Etienne, Clermont-Ferrand, and Tulle. Northern
Anyergne.
I. From Lyons to Clermont-Ferrand,
L M. Railway in 7i/a-9i/4 hrs. (fares about 22 fr., 14 fr. 86, 9 fr. 60 c).
ains start from the Gare de Perraehe.
fonSf see p. 227. — The train crosses and recrosses the Sadne.
d a short tunnel La Mulatiere, with 3420 inhab., appears
5 right
M. OuUPns, a picturesquely situated town of 9085 inhab.,
three old castles and numerous country-houses. Fine view
Rhone to the left The little towers seen here and there on
inks of the river are used for cable -ferries. — Several small
ns are passed. Beyond (11 M.) Le Sablon a branch crosses
tione and joins the line on the left bank (p. 420).
M. Qivora-Canal (buffet) is the junction for the line on the
bank (B. 62 b), under which we pass, after ciossing the Canal
lev or de Oi^ora,
16*
244 III. Route 36, ST. ETIENNE. From Lyons
13^2 M. Oivors (H6tel de Provence), an industrial town with
1 1 ,035 inhab., at the junction of the Rhone and the Gier. The whole
of the irregular valley of the latter river, which our line now ascends,
is a busy industrial region. Numerous tunnels.
22V2M. Bive-de-Oier (Buffet; [Hdtel du Nord), with 13,803
inhab., is situated on the Gier and the Canal du Gier. It has upwards
of fifty coal-mines, noted glass-works, iron-works, and considerable
silk-factories. Steam-tramway to Firminy (see below and p. 250).
Beyond (24 M.) Lorette (4224 inhab.) Mont Pilat (p. 245) ap-
pears at the head of a lateral valley.
28V2M. St. Chamond (Hotel de la Poste; Lion d'Or), with
14,463 inhab., has coal-mines, active manufactures of silk, ribbons,
laces, and nails, iron-works , etc. An excursion may be made hence
to Mont Pilat, which again becomes visible to the left a little farther
on. Steam-tramway to Rive-de-Gier and St. Etienne.
32 M. Terre-Noire, with 4929 inhab., has iron-foundries and
iron-furnaces. A tunnel, '/4 ^* long, now carries the line from the
basin of the Rhone to that of the Loire.
36 M. St. Etienne (Buffet), — Railway BUtioiu: 1. Oare Centrale
or de Chdteaucreux (PL E, 6; buffet)^ 3. Oare de la Terrasse (PI. H, 3), on
the Roanne line-, 3. Gare du Glapier (PI. D, 2) ; 4. Gave de Bellevne (PI. A, 3),
both on the Le Puy line.
Hotels. Du NoBD (Pi. a^ D, 3, 4), Bae de la Bepublique 7, pens. 8 fr. ;
i>£ Frakcb (PI. b; D,3), Place Dorian %\ db l'Eukopb (PI. e; D,3), Rue
du General Foy 9; dbs Abts, Rue GambetU 11^'" (PI. C, 3)^ pb la Posts.
Rue du Petit -St -Jacques 7^ du Cbktbb, Rue Ifeuve 11, d^j. or D. 3iA,
pens. 6fr. — Caf^s in the Place de rHotel-de-Ville.
Gabs. For two pers., per drive IV41 per hr. 2 fr. \ for four pers., U/;*
and 21/2 fr. \ at night, after 11 p. m., 1/2 fr. more. — Steam Tramways from
La Terrasse (PI. H,3) to BelUvue vi& the long street traversing the town
from N. to S. (see p. 245); to St. Chamond in i hr. from the Plaea de
I'Hdtel-de-Ville (PI. D,3)-, to Firminy in »/4 br. , and to La Dig^ftmire,
from the Place Bellevue, to the S. of the town. — Eleetrie Tramways
from the Place Dorian (PI. D, 3) to the lUmd Point (PI. A, 5) and to La
Riviire^ beyond Bellevue •, from Chdieauereux (PI. E, 5) to Beltevue (PI. A, 3).
— Omnibuses to the suburbs.
Post A Tblboraph Officb at the Prefecture, Rue de la Prefecture.
OsAMD Thbatkb (PI. D, 3), Place des Ursules. — Edbk €k>iicasT, Rue
de la Croix 3.
Am^ricau Cokbul, Mr. Hilary 3. Brunot.
St. Etienne, an important manufacturing town with 146,671
Inhab., and the chief town of the department of the Loire since
1856, has developed more rapidly than any other modern French
town, due largely to its situation in the midst of the largest coal-
field in the S. of France, yielding annually over 3,000,000 tons of
coal. Weapons , ironmongery, cutlery, and ribbons are among the
chief manufactures. For the tourist the busy, well-built, modern
town is comparatively uninteresting.
The HdiEL db Yills (PI. D, £, 3) is a modem edifice with a
heavy cupola surmounted by a lantern , and a platform deeont«d
with cast-iron statues of Metallurgy and Ribbon Making, by Mon-
to Bordeaux. ST. ETIENNE. ///. Route 36, 245
tagny. Behind it are the handsome Place Marengo (PI. £, 3), with
a statue of Lieut, F. Oarnier (1839-73), the explorer of Cambodia
and Tonkin, by Tony Noel (1902), and the Prefecture, — In the N.
part of the main thoroughfare , traversing the city from N. to S. for
a distance of 2V2 ^'^ is the immense National Abms Factory
(PI. F, 3, 4 ; no admission), in which rifles and revolvers are made
(10,000 workmen).
On the left of the Rue des Jardins is the Palais de Justice
(PI. D, 3), a large modern building, the facade of which has a por-
tico of ten Corinthian columns, and is surmounted by an alle-
gorical group, by L. Merley. In a street to the right as we return
from the Palais de Justice is St, Etienne (PI. D, 3), a parish church
of the 15th cent, with an interesting interior.
The Palais dbs Abts (PI. C, 3), situated on the slope of a hill
near this church, contains various Musees, open to the public on
Sun., Tues., & Thurs., 10-12 and 2 to 4, 5, or 6, and to strangers at
other times also.
On the Groukd Floor are a historical Museum of ArtilUrf and the
^■ftrary (daily 9-13 and 3-10^ Sun. 3-7). — The Firbt Floor is principally
occupied by a Oallery of Painlings^ consisting mainly of modern pictures,
though with a few noteworthy older canvases. A large room is devoted
to an Induttrial Muuum^ illustrative of ribbon-making and silk-weaving.
— On the Sbcovd Floor are a Natural Bisiory Museum and a Collection
of Sculptures.
The Rue de la Badouillere leads from the front of the Palais des
Arts to the Jardin des Plantes (PI. C,D,4,5). — In this neigh-
bourhood is an important School of Mines (PI. D, 4), in which
nearly all the engineers and industrial leaders of tbe district have
been educated. It contains some interesting collections.
ExcuRsiov TO HovT PiLAT, 16 M. to the Ferme du Pilat, and thence
Vt hr. to the Gret de la Perdrix. Omnibus twice a day from No. 9 Place
<itt People to (41/3 M.) Rochetaillee , and on Sun. and Wed. mornings
from No. 22 Place Dorian to (11 M.) Le Bessat. — The road leads to the
S.E. via the suburb of ValbnoUey whence it skirts tbe left bank of the
FurenSy a stream descending from Mont Pilat. 41/3 M. RochetaitUe^ a village
picturesquely situated on an isolated rock and commanded by a ruined
castle. About V4 M. farther on, in a wild gorge, is the interesting Reservoir
du Oouffre-d'Enfer, constructed in 1861-66 to supply St. Etienne with water.
7 H. Reservoir du Pas-du-Rioi^ a similar construction. — 11 M. Le Bessat
(3825 ft. ; inn). The road leads thence to the (Va M.) col of the Croix de
Chabourety and beyond a wood the Cret de la Perdrix lies to the right. —
16 M. Ferme du Pilot (4288 ft.), where refreshments and a bed, if desired,
inay be obtained, lies at the foot of the Cret de la Perdrix (about 25 min.).
Kent Pilat is one of the chief summits of the Northern Cdvennes. Its
lower slopes are covered with forests, its top with pastures. Three sum-
mits are distinguished: the Crit de la Perdrix (4706ft.), the CrSt de VcmUon
(45l»ft.), and the Pic des Trois-Dents (4475 ft.). On the E. side of the
second of these, near the Col de la Croix-du-CoUety stands the new Hdtel
du Mont-Pilat (4185 ft.). The legend that Pontius Pilate killed himself
here in despairing remorse is related of this mountain just as it is of
the Pilatus above the lake of Lucerne in Switzerland ; and both moun-
tains serve as barometers for the surrounding districts. A popular say-
ing in this district runs 'When Pilate puts on his hat , put on your
cloak*. A similar remark is made with reference to the mists settling on
the Puy de Dome. — The summit commands a splendid view, ranging to
246 IIL Routt 36. MONTBRISON. From Lyons
the Alps on the £. , to the Rhone valley and Southern Cayennes on the
S., to the Hts. of Auvergne on the W.^ and on the N. to the continuation
of the Cevennes^ the Mts. of Lyonnais, and the Mts. of Beaujolais and
Gharolais. The other two summits, though lower, also command fine views.
— The Gier, which rises on the Gr€t de la Perdrix, near the farm, forms
lower down a beautiful waterfall, 100 ft. high, known as the Saut du Oier.
From St. Etibmke to Ai;nonay avd St. Raiibekt-d^Albok, 641/2 M. To
Annonay^ 52 M., Railway in 4-41/2 hrs. (fares 9 fr. 5, 6 fr. 10 c, 5 fr.).
From Annonay to Si. Ranibert^ 121/2 M., Railway in8/4-l J»f- (fares 2 fr. 25,
1 fr. 60 c, 1 fr.). — This line has 38 tunnels, of a total length of abou t
7M.; 19 viaducts varying in height from 90 to 1(X) ft.; and numerous deep
cuttings. At Bourg-Argental it makes a very sharp curved loop, with
a spiral tunnel, similar in character to those on the St. Gotthard line.
Best views to the right.
To (10 M.) Firminy^ see p. 250. — The ^Ligne d' Annonay' runs S. and
at first ascends the valley of the Demtne^ by considerable gradients. To
the £. (left) is Mont Pilat (p. 245). — 23 M. St. Didier-la-S«auve (2415 ft. ;
H6t. Verrlier)^ a town with Ol05inhab., beyond which we quit the valley
of the Demene. Beyond (27 M.) St. Pal-St-Romain are a tunnel 650 yds.
long, and a viaduct 115 yds. long and 1(X) ft. high (the loftiest on the
line). Bevond (31 M.) Duniires-Mont/aucon we ascend the valley of the
Dunihres. 32 M. Riotord (2835 ft. \ Hot. Souvignet) is the centre of the
timber-trade (pit-props, etc.) of the district. We now traverse the longest
tunnel (I1/2 M0<» and descend to the £. by the unusual gradient, for an
ordinary line, of 1 in 33. Beyond (351/2 M.) St. Sauveur-«n-Rue^ a viaduct^
and 5 tunnels we reach the beginning of the *Loop of Bourg-Argental^
where the line describes an almost complete circle with a radius of only
315 yds. — 44 M. Bourg-Argental (U5d ft.; H6t, de France)., a town of
4530 inhab. on the Diome. Its Church has an interesting 12th cent, portal.
The loop ends a little farther on with a tunnel 1050 yds. long. We now
descend the valley of the Diome. — 52 M. Annonay '(*H6t. an Midi)^ an
industrial town of 17,028 inhab. at the junction of the deep valleys of
the D^ome and the Cance^ has glove-leather factories and paper-mills.
In the Place de THotel-de-Ville a monument (by H. (Wordier) was ereeted
in 1888 to the Brothers Montgoljter, who in 1783 made their first balloon
ascent from the Place des Cordeliers.
At (55 M.) Midon the line turns once more to the K. E., and then
rapidly descends. Fine view of the Rhone valley. 61 U. Peyraud^ on the
line from Lyons to Nimes (p. 407). We cross the Rhone at a point where
it forms an island. — 641/^ M. 8t. Rambert'd'Albon^ see p. 432.
From St. Etienne to Roanne (Paris), etc., see R. 31a; to Le Puy., etc.,
see R. 37.
Beyond St. Etienne we follow the Koanne (Paris) line as far as
(42 M. ) St, Just -sur- Loire, (p. 205). At (46 M.) AndrezUux we
cross the bed of the Loire, frequently dry in great part — 47Vf M.
Bonson.
A branch-line runs from Bonson via (17 M.) St. Bonnet-le-Ch&teaa (Hot.
du Commerce)^ a picturesquely situated and ancient little town, with an
interesting church (15- 16th cent.), to (33 M.) Craponne-sur-Anon (H6t. tfu
Nord).^ a lace -making town (4082 inhab.), whence roads lead to Arlanc
(12 M.; p. 213), La Chaise- Dieu (12 M.; p. 213), and Vorey (16 M. ; p. 251).
The line now turns towards the E., in the direction of the moun-
tains of the Forez (p. 247), which it afterwards skirts for a consider-
able distance, commanding an extensive view over the valley of the
Loire, on the right, hounded hy the mountains of the Lyonnais.
57 M. MontbrlBon (Burette; Lion cfOr; Poste), an ancient
town of 7170 inhab., the former capital of the Forez, is situated on
the Vizezy, at the foot of a hill surmounted by a Calvary. The prin-
to Bordeaux. THIERS. IIL Route 36, 247
cipal church, Notre- Daime de V Etp^ranee , is a handsome Gothic
edifice of the 13-1 5th cent. , with modern decorations in the inter-
ior. Behind the church is an ancient chapter-house, known as the
Diana (Decana), founded about 1300, hut restored in 1866. It now
contains the libraries of a learned society and of the town. In the
public Jar dm Allard is a bronze statue, by Bonnassieux, of Victor
de I/a|7raci«' (1812-1883), the poet, a native of Montbrison.
About IV2 ^- to the S. of Montbrison is M^ingt^ with Roman remains
and a feudal keep.
From Montbrison to Lyon* via Montrond and L*Arbresle, see p. %4.
60 M. Champdieu has a fortified church in the Auvergnat Ro-
manesque style, dating from a Benedictine priory, and a 15th cent,
hospital, with a tall decagonal turret. To the right is the isolated
volcanic hill of Mont-d'Uzore (1770 ft). — 64 M. MarcUlyle-
Pave, with a fine Gothic chlteau, recently restored. — 67V2M.
Boen (Central Hotel) ; 3 M. to the £. is the mediseval Chdteau de la
Bdtie, still inhabited.
The railway now enters the mountains, ascending first the valley
of the Ldgnon, then the picturesque valley of the Auzon.
70 M. 8«il-soiui-Ck»iiian, or Couzan. The village (Hdt. des Roches),
IV2 M. to the S. , has two mineral springs, with a well -managed
bath - establishment.
An interesting route leads hence via the valley of the Lignon and
(5 M.) at. Georges-e%-Couzan (hotel) to OVa M.) Chalmaiel (3883 ft. ^ H6t.
des Voyageurs with a chateau of the 13th and i6th centuries. Chalmazel
is a good centre for excursions among the MonU du Forex ^ including
the ascent of the Pierre-tur-Hauie (5380 ft. •, 2 hrs. ; p. 213).
Farther on, to the left, are the well-preserved ruins of the * Cha-
teau de Couzan (11-1 6th cent.). The railway turns to the S.W.
and enters the valley of the Durolle, Eight tunnels and four bridges
are passed between (94 M.) St. Remy-aur- Durolle and Thiers. As we
emerge from the last tunnel we have a fine view, to the left.
97V2M. Thiers {Hotel de VUnivers, de Paris, both in the Rue
des Grammonts), a town with 17,135 inhab., is an important seat of
the cutlery and paper manufactures. It consists of two distinct parts :
the new town , beside the station , and the mediaeval town , on the
steep bank of the Durolle, ill-built but highly picturesque, with many
old houses of the 15th cent, or older, blackened by time.
Beyond a square in the Rue des Grammonts we descend to the
right to the Hdtel de Ville. The Rue des Barres , to the left of the
latter, enters the old town. In the Place du Piroux is the Chateau
du Piroux, a curious old timber house , and in the Rue de la Vaur,
to the left, are two others. The groundfloors of nearly all the houses
in this part of the town are occupied by small cutlers' workshops,
the workmen generally working in their own homes.
The Church of St. Oenh, to the right, a little above the Place
du Piroux, in the Romanesque and Gothic styles of the ll-12th cent.,
contains a tomb of the 13th cent, under the porch on the left side.
The Rue Durolle, to the right as we leave the church, leads down
248 III. Route 36. PONTGIBAUD. From Lyoni
to the Durolle, from the picturesque banks of which the most at-
tractive view of the town is obtained. Here are numerous paper-
mills, workshops for polishing scissors and knives, and other
industrial establishments. Farther down , on the left , is the Ro-
manesque J^glise du Motitier, formerly belonging to a Benedictine
abbey, founded in the 7th or 8th cent., but largely rebuilt in the
11th. It has curious capitals and other sculptures. — The valley
up the river is also interesting.
To the N.E. rises the Pay de Kontoncel (4236 ft. ; view) , a spur of
the Forez mountains. The ascent takes 5 hrs. on foot^ but travellers may
take a carriage to (8 M.) PtUadus^ 3 hrs. below the top.
Beyond Thiers we traverse two tunnels and descend by wide
curves to the valley of the Dore, a tributary of the AUier. Fine
views to the left. At (98V2 M.) Courty the line to Vichy diverges
(p. 210). We cross the river. — 100 M. Pont-de-Dtyre (p. 213).
We are now in theLimagne(p.210). 106 M. Letoux (Croix d'Or),
with 3545 inhab., manufactures earthenware.
II3V2M. Pont-du-Chdteau^ a small town V2M. to the N., on the
left bank of the AUier, has a ruined ch&teau and bitumen-wells.
A branch-line runs hence to (61/2 M.) Billom (Bdttl det Voy<tgeur$)^ an
ancient town with 4351 inhab., formerly celebrated for its school. The
church of St. Cerneuf (11th and 13th cent.) contains a fine tomb of the
14th century. — About 5 M. to the S. £. are the considerable ruins of
the Chdteau de Mauzun (13th cent.).
We cross the Allier. To "the left appear the Plateau de Gergo-
vie and Mont Rognon (p. 221), to the right the Monts Dome (pp.
218, 219). — 121 M. Clermont-Ferrand (buffet), see p. 214.
n. From COermont-Ferrand to Brive. KorthMrn Amrosfiio.
122 M. Railway in 6V4-71/4 hrs. (fares 22 fr. 30, 14 fr. 5, 9 fr, 75 e.).
This line makes a wide circuit to the S. of Clermont, of which
it affords a fine view as far as the second station ; it then skirts the
N. side of the Monts Dome. — 3V2 M. Royat (p. 217), of which
there is also a fine view. After passing (5 M.) Durtol and threading
four short tunnels, with the Puy de Dome, the Puy de Pariou, and
other summits on the left, the train reaches (9V2M.) CharuU and
( 12^/2 M. ) Volvic, The latter, 2 M. to the right, is more conven-
iently reached by a branch -line from Riom (p. 210), which here
joins the Clermont-Ferrand railway. On each side of the railway
are large quarries of lava, used for building. — The Monts Dore are
seen first to the right and then to the left.
23^/tM. TontgihviA (IJotelJohannel; de V Univert), a small town,
has argentiferous lead -mines and a 13th cent. Chateau containing
a choice and valuable collection of paintings (visitors admitted). The
Church (15-16th cent.) contains two paintings of the Adoration, by
Guide Reni, and an Assumption by Parrocel. One of the town-gates
dates from 1444. There are two mineral springs in the environs, and
in the neighbouring valley of the Sioule are those of ChdteauforL
The line now rounds the end of the Monts Dome And ascends
to Bordeaux. TULLE. IIL Route 36. 249
the valley of the SioiUe , in which the view is limited. 25*/t M.
Les Boziers'Sur-Sioule. — 28 M. La Miouse-Roekefort.
Rochefori^ which has an imposing ruined ^Castle, is 6Vs M. to the S.
and 5 M. from Laqueuille (see below). About iVa K- to the £. of Roche-
fort is Orcival^ the Romanesque church of which^ with a black statue of
the Virgin., is one of the chief resorts of pilgrims in Auvergne.
At (36*/2 M.) Bourgeade the view opens in the direction of the
Monts Dore ; to the left is the truncated Pic de la Banne d'Ordenche,
and in the distance to the right the Puy de Sancy (p. 224).
39 V2 M. LaqnenUle (3235 ft. ; Buffet). The village lies on a hill,
IV4 M. to the E.
From Laqubuillb to La BoufiBomiB amd Lb Momt Dorb, 81/3 M.,
branch-railway in 38 minutes. — Beyond (2l^ M.) St. Sames this line as-
cends the picturesque wooded valley of the Dordogne. — 51/2 M. La Bour-
bot^f see p. 221. — After a tunnel the valley contracts; to the N. rise
the Banne (T Ordenehe and the P«y Oro» (p. 2.24), and in front, farther on,
are the Pie du Capucin (p. 235) and the Puy de Sancy (p. 224). — Si/a M.
Le Mont Dore (p. 223).
The line now passes into the basin of the Dordogne. The Monts
Dore and , afterwards , the Monts du Cantal occupy the horizon on
the left
Beyond {il^/ 2^') Bourg-LastiC'Mesaeix we descend the pictur-
esque valley of the Glidane. — 52 Vz M. Eyg^rande-MerlineB {Buffet;
Hotel Tixier, at the station, moderate), station for two villages, 1^2
and 1 M. distant. — To Montlufon and to Aurillac, see p. 242.
64V2M. UMel'inr-Sartoime (Buffet; Hdt. du Dauphin; Grand
Hotel), a town of 4843 inhab., built on a hill, Vz ^* ^ ^^® ^* ^^
the railway. A large Roman JEagle in granite was found in an old
Roman camp in the neighbourhood and has been placed here on a
modern fountain.
Beyond a short tunnel is (73 M.) Meymac (Hotel de Bordeaux;
du Commerce), with 3964 inhab. and an interesting church of the
li-i2th cent, formerly belonging to a Benedictine monastery. The
Puy de Meymac (3220 ft) is adjoined on the N. by the Plateau de
Millevaches, important as the watershed between the Loire and the
Dordogne. Line to Limoges, see p. 38.
The line to Brive here turns to the S.W. , with a view of the
Mouts du Cantal (p. 250) on the left. Several small stations. Beyond
(93 V2 M.) Eyrein we enter the valley of the Montane. 96 M. Cor-
^he, a small village at the S. end of the Monedieres (2950 ft).
98V2 M. Gimel (inn), a village below which the Montane forms
four celebrated cascades.
106 M. TuUe {Grand -Hotel; Hot. Notre- Dame, R. 2-4, D. 3,
pens. 7^/2, omn. ^/^ fr.) , a town of 17,514 inhab. , the capital of the
department of the Correze, is picturesquely situated on the Correze,
near its junction with the Solane. The Avenue Victor Hugo, cross-
ing the Correze, leads direct from the station to (*/4 hr.) the centre
of the town (omn. 15 c). The chief object of interest, farther on in
the same direction, i« the Cathedral^ of the 12th cent, with a fine
250 ///. Route 37. FIRMINT. From Lpont
tower of the 14th cent, but stripped of its choir and its transepts in
1793. At the side is a cloister of the 12th century. Houses of the
Renaissance and e^en of the Middle Ages are still to be seen in the
town, one of the most interesting being the Maison de I'Abb^ (15th
cent.), to the N. of the cathedral. The government Fire- Arms Fac-
tory (no admission) is in the suburb of Souilhac, watered by the
Solane, to the W. of the station.
The railway continues to descend the deep-set valley of the Gor-
reze, which is crossed several times. — 114V2 M. Attbazine, The
village, 1^/4 M. to the left, grew up towards the close of the 11th
cent., round a Benedictine Abbey, of which some interesting re-
mains are still extant. The Church contains the splendid 13th cent.
Tomb of St. Stephen, founder of the abbey.
122 M. Brive (Buffet), on the line from Limoges to Aurillac (R. 13).
m. From Brive to Pfcigueaz and Bordeaux.
1231/9 M. Railway in 6»/4-7 hra. (fares 23 fr. 30, 15 fr. 5, 9 fr. 80 c).
This line enters the valley of the V/z^re. — 13 M. TerrcLsgon,
with a Gothic church and a ruined abbey ; 2OV2 M. La Barhelterie,
beyond which we quit the V^zere. — At (39 M.) Nivertac the line to
Agen (p. 69) diverges. — 45 M. Perigueux, see p. 39. — Thence to
(123^8 M.) Bordeaux, see p. 42.
37. From Lyons to Toulouse vi& Le Fuy and Anrillac.
Sonthem Anvergne.
' 349 M. Railway interesting, bat no through-trains. The best plan
is to sleep at Le Puy, whence there is a morning train with eonnections
(fares about 63, 42Van 38 fr.). — From Lyons to Le Puy^ 90 M., railway in
5i/4-6V4hr8. (fares 16 fr. 35, 11 fr. 5, 7 fr. 26 c.). — From Le Puy to
Toulouse , railway in about IW/2 hrs.
From Lyons to Toulouse via Taraseo* and Ntmes^ 367 M., in 10S/4-i9*/4
hrs. (fares 64 fr. 85, 43 fr. 80, 38 fr. 60 c). See RR. 63, 13.
To (36 M.) St. Etienne, see p. 244. — The line to Le Puy skirts
the town on the W., passing the arms manufactory (to the right) and
crossing a curved viaduct. Beyond (38 M.) Le Clapier are two short
tunnels; and beyond (40 M.) Bellevue another, nearly VI^M. long.
41 Vs M. La Ricamarie, an industrial place of 7310 inhab.,
producing shoe-nails and bolts. In the neighbourhood are coal-
mines, one of which has been on fire since the 15th century. —
43V2 M. Le Chambon-Feugerolles, with 9916 inhab., has iron-works
and coal-mines. About ^/g M. to the S. is the interesting Chdte<tu
de FeugeroUes (ll-17th cent.).
46 M. rinniny (Buffet; Hotel du Sord)j another industrial town
with 15,771 inhab., the centre of a coal and iron district.
Lines to St. Just-gur-Loire and Annonay-St-Rambert-dTAlbon^ see p. 946.
46*/2 M. Fraisse- Unieux is the junction for St. Just-sur-Loire
(p. 205). After a tunnel we reach the banks of the Loire, which flows
between very picturesque mountains. — 47*/t M. Pertuiset (hotels).
The aspect of the country changes. A busy industrial region, black
to Toulouse. LE PUT. ///. Route 87. 251
with smoke and coal, is succeeded by a peaceful valley with pic-
turesque and verdant landscapes. On Mont Comillon , to the left,
are the ruins of a fortress of the 12-16th cent, including within its
walls a church of the 12th and 15th cent., with some good wood-
carving. We traverse four tunnels and two viaducts. Beyond (51 V2 M«)
Atirec, in the distance to the right, is the ruined Chateau de Roche-
haron. — 58 M. Bcu-Moniatrol, the station for Baa (pron. 'Bass'),
272 M. to the W., and Monistrol, 2 M. to the £. From Bas we visit
the ruins of Rocheharon, and Monistrol also has a castle of the 15th
century. Several tunnels and bridges over the Loire.
69 M. Retoumac (Hot. Pradon)^ with 3859 inhabitants. Beyond
a bridge and a tunnel, on a hill to the right, are the ruins of the
Chdteau d*Artiac. Beyond (71 V2 M.) Chamalieres we see its abbey
church. — 77 M. Vorey. — 82 M. Lavoute-sur- Loire, with a pictur-
esque old castle which is visible from the railway, a little farther on.
From Lato6tb - sub - Loxke to Tbsikosaux, 14 M.., railway in U/ihr.
(fares 2 fr. GO, 1 fr. 96, 1 fr. 40 c.). — Ysaingeauz (Grand -Hdtel; H6i. de
VEurope)^ with 8004 inhab., is an old manufacturing town, producing tulle
and lace.
90 M. IiO Fuy. — Hotels. Des Ambassadeurs , Place du Breuil ^
*Graiid Hotel Gariiier,Bou1. St. Louis 17; de l'Europe, Place deTHotel-de-
Ville; DB Paris, near the station, well spoken of. — Gafi» in the Place
du Breuil and at the Hot. de Paris. — Electric Tramwops from the Pltice
du Breuil to the Station and to Brives and Espaly (p. 254); fares 10-15 c. —
Post A Telegraph Office^ Boul. St. Louis 50.
he Puy, the Roman Podium, a town of 20,793 inhab. , was the
ancient capital of the Velay, and is now the chief town of the depart-
ment of the Haute- Loire. It is most picturesquely situated between
the Borne and the Dolezon on the slope of Mont Anis , on which
rise the remarkable cathedral and colossal statue of the Virgin.
Quitting the station, we cross a suburb, turn to the left, via the
Boulevard St. Jean, and reach the large and fine Place du Bbeuil,
the centre of the lower town. In the middle is the * Fontaine Cro-
zatier, presented by M. Crozatier, a bronze-founder, who was a native
of Le Puy (1796-1855). The imposing structure was designed by
Pradier of Le Puy, the bronze sculptures by Bosio the Younger. The
latter consist of a statue of the town of Le Puy, on the top of the
monument, and of seated statues of the Loire, the AJUer, the Borne,
and the Dolezon, four rivers of the department, and of genii, grouped
round four basins at the foot of the fountain.
On the other side of the Place are the Prefecture and (on the left)
the Palais de Justice and the Theatre.
At the back of the Prefecture is a public garden , at the foot of
which is the *Musee Crozatier, a fine modern building, also due to
the munificence of M. Crozatier. It is open free on Sun. and Thurs.
from 9 to 12 and from 2 to 4; on other days for a small gratuity.
On the Ground Floor are collections of Sculptures^ Antiquities (pre-
historic, Roman, and medieeval), and Furniture^ and other curiosities.
Two rooms, to the left, are devoted to the mechanical and natural
252 III, Route 37. LE PUY. From Ly&nB
history collections. — On the staircase, copies of mural paintings in Le
Puy and its environs.
On the First Floor three rooms are oecnpied by an interesting col-
lection of Paintingi^ mainly by Dutch and French masters, and including
some noteworthy canvases. — In another room is a natural history co\-
lection, especially rich in birds; and in the fifth is a rich collection of
lace-work, guipures, etc. The manufacture of lace is the chief industry
of the district, employing upwards of 100,000 women.
Tbe Rue Porte- Aiguiere , opposite the Fontaine Crozatier , leads
to the Hdtel de VUle, an uninteresting building of the 18th century.
A little farther on we reach a small square, whence we see on the
right, at the end of a steep street, the —
^Cathedbal of Notbe-Dame. This church is very singular in
its general character, and particularly so in its arrangement, certain
peculiarities in which are quite unique. It dates chiefly from the
lith and 12th centuries. The church is approached by a grand
staircase which has 60 steps outside, 42 under the great vaulted
porch beneath the actual nave of the church, and 32 on the side, to
the right. Formerly this staircase went straight on , crossing the
pavement of the nave and joining the transept, in front of the choir,
in such a way that the faithful on the steps outside could, it is said,
see the officiating priest. The great Portal comprises three semi-
circular arches opening on the Porch; above is some smaller arcad-
ing, then three windows, at the end of the nave, and three gables,
those at the sides extending beyond the roof and open. Note-
worthy, too, in this church is the mixture of white and black stone
which is a characteristic decoration of the churches of Auvergne.
Under the porch is a small chapel with traces of paintings. Two
of the steps bear the following inscription of the 1 1th cent : *Ni
caveas crimen, caveas contingere limen; Nam regina Poli vult sine
sorde coli\ The flight of steps to the left, under the porch, leads
to the ^Cloister, by visiting which at once we avoid retracing our
steps. It is partly enclosed by a fine Romanesque railing, which the
verger will open, though it may be sufficiently well seen without his
aid. The most ancient part of this fine erection dates from the 9th
or even the 8th cent, and was restored in the 19th. Its chief features
are the colonnettes and the splendid cornice, adorned with heads
of men and beasts. The building to the W., with machicolations,
is the remnant of a 13th cent, fortress.
The Interior of the Cathedral presents a nave and aisles with six
domes in the Byzantine style, a small transept with a lantern over the
centre, galleries, and small double chapels at the ends, a square choir,
and a kind of apse under the tower (see p. 353). On the high-altar is a
small modern black statue of the Virgin, not less venerated than the
one that preceded i^ destroyed in 1793. At the farther side, on the wall
of the tower, is a noteworthy fresco of the end of the 13th cent., removed
from the cloister (see above) and restored^ its chief subject is Christ
between the Virgin and St. John.
Making our exit by a door at the end of the left aisle, we find
ourselves under the N. Portal, with a very slightly pointed arch.
The S. Portal (Porche du For), on the other side of the tower, is
to Toulouie. LE PtJY. Ill, Route 37. 253
ery remarkable. It forms a eiirious kind of porch, each side present-
ng a round arch, connected with the others only at three points,
.^he Tower, one of the rare examples of Transitional clock -towers
till extant, has seven stages with Romanesque arches, plain and
refoil-headed , intermingled with pointed arches. It dates mainly
rom the end of the 13th century.
Adjoining the S. portal is the Bishop's Palace, From the small
quare in front of it there is a fine view.
Beside the N. portal are a Baptistery of the 11th cent., including
ome remains of a Roman edifice , and the Renaissance Chapel of
he Penitents (^Societas Gonfalonis', 1584), decorated in the interior
•y artists of the district (apply to concierge of the Bishop's Palace).
L lane which passes between them leads to the approach to the
locher de Corneille (10 c).
The RocHXB db Corneille, which forms the summit of Mont
Lnis, is a mass of volcanic breccia, rising to a peak 420 ft. above
he lower town and 2480 ft. above the level of the sea. We reach
t by a succession of steps hewn in the rock. At the top is a Statue
f Notre-Dame de France, 52 ft. in height, on a pedestal of 20 ft.
t was erected in 1860 from designs by Bonnassieux, and is made
fiih more than 200 Russian cannons, taken at Sebastopol. Visitors
aay ascend inside the statue to the head. The openings made at
arious places permit us to enjoy the splendid view afforded by the
nvirons , with their grand amphitheatre of mountains , consisting
hiefly of the C^vennes, amongst which the M^zenc and the Gerbier-
e-Jonc (p. 254) are specially conspicuous to the S. E. — On the
•latform of the Rocher de Corneille is the bronze Statue of Mgr.
\e Morlhon, Bishop of Le Puy (d. 1862), also by Bonnassieux.
In descending it is better to pass again by the cathedral than
9 entangle oneself in the winding and ill -paved streets which
urround it.
The Rue Grangevieille, at the foot of the Rue des Tables (which
scends to the cathedral), leads towards the W. Boulevards, where
7e note, on the left as we arrive, the low, massive Tour Pannessac,
nth machicolations, forming the remains of a town-gateway of the
3th century. On the next Boulevard is a Status of La Fayette
1757-1834), by Hiolle. — We descend by the Boulevard at the
ide of the tower.
St. Laurent, a church of the 14th cent., in the lower part of the
own, near the Borne, contains the Tomb of Bertrand du Quesclin
d. 1380), with the statue of the famous warrior. To the left of the
ntrance are some Gothic fonts.
The street on this side of the church leads to the base of a rock
280 ft.), similar to the Rocher de Corneille but even more pictur-
sque, on which stands the *Ghurch of St, Michel'd' AiguUhe, It is
eached by a succession of stairs with 277 steps (10 c, paid to the
lessee^. This church, or rather chapel, is an architectural curiosity,
264 III, Route 37. LE MONASTJER. From Lytms
dating from 962-84. The interior forms a sort of oval, the chancel
occupying the end to the right of the entrance, while in front of this
chancel is a small central aisle, inclosed with very low pillars and
surrounded by a small aisle. The facade is a masterpiece of early-
Romanesque architecture.' The portal is adorned with curious bas-
reliefs. Opposite the entrance stands an isolated tower, of the same
style as that of the (Cathedral; the upper part is less ancient than
the church.
In the suburb, a little way from th« rock, is the so-called
TempU of Diana, a ohapel of the 12th cent., used either by the
knights -templar, or as a baptistery, or as a funeral chapel.
Exoursions. — The following are the principal of the numerous ex-
cursions that may be made in the neighbourhood of Le Put.
To EsPALY, PoLiGKAc, BSTC. — Espaly (tramway, see p. 251), 1/2 M. to
the W. of Le Puy, is a large village, above which we may see from the
road a curious mass of basalt, showing fine columns^ called from their
arrangement the Orguei d' Espaly. — PoUgnao, situated 8 M. to theK.W.
of Le Puy^ to the right of the road to St. Paulien and La Chaise -Dieu,
is celebrated for the picturesque and imposing ruins of the *Ca*tt« of the
same name (i2-15th cent.), on a rocky plateau which overlooks it and on
which are found Roman remains, seen in the midst of the other ruins.
The road is continued across a verv broken country. After 8V2 M. it
is joined by the road from Darsac (p. 212) and 2 M. farther on it reaches
Nolkac. — 13 M. 8t, PauUen^ a small town near which is the site of
Ruessium^ the capital of the Vellavi or Velauni. The Church (Uth cent.)
occupies the site of an antique building, and other antiquities have been
found. To the left is seen the Afont de Bar (p. 314). — TOM. St. Just-prii-
ChomiUx. Here, and again at (261/2 H.) 0Aam6oni«, our road bends to the
left. — 31 M. La Chaise-Dieu (p. 213).
To THE Mbzbxc via. Lb Mokastieb. a carriage - road leads from Le
Puy to (23 M.) Les Establesj thence a bridle-path to the (IV2 hr.) Hezene.
A public conveyance plies from Le Puy to (13 M.) Le Monastier (fare
1 fr. 60 c.). — We proceed to the E, At (2V2M.) Charensae we cross the
Loire. The Mezenc road turns to the right at (3 H.) Brivts. To the left
is the J/<m< Z)ov« (2740 ft.), on which stands an old 12th cent, abbey. Far-
ther on, to the right, on another eminence, is the fine Chdteau de BoutoU
(Uth cent.). — At (8 M.) La Terraste are some artificial grottoes, onee
used as dwellings. — 13 M. Le Kontixtiet (H6t. PoHaonaiUe)f-wiih 3739 inhab.,
owes its name to a monastery of which the church remains, partly Ro-
manesque in style. — The road (earr. 10 fr.) proceeds to the 8.E. vift
Freyeenet-la-Tour to (23 M.) Les EstabUs (Testud), a village of some siae,
on the W. side of the Mezenc. — The KAieno (5750 ft.) is a volcanic
mountain, isolated and precipitous, except to the W., the side next Les
Estables. Its slopes aflrord excellent pasturage. From the top there is
a fine panorama extending westwards to the mountains of the Caatal,
northwards over the mountains on both sides of the Loire, and the valley
of that river, eastwards to the mountains of Dauphin^ and Savoy, as
far as Mont Blanc, and southwards to the G^vennes, amongst which the
(ierbier-de-Jonc (see below) is conspicuous, and to the western extremity
of the Alps, where, on the horizon, Mont Ventoux rears itself. — About
41/2 hrs. fVom the Mezenc is the Oerbier-de-JonCy another volcanic mountain,
on which the Loire rises. Its height has been only 6090 ft. since a land-
slip which occurred in 1821; before that it was 5olO ft.
Beyond Le Puy we follow the railway to Nevers (R. 32), vii
(102 m.) Danac^ (122 M.) St, Oeorges'-d'Aurae, and Brioude, to
(143 M.) Arvant (see p. 212).
The line which crosses the Gantal is also very interesting, and
to Taulouae. LE LIORAN. TIL Rmite 37. 255
its construction has demanded much engineering skill. It attains
an eleyatlon of 3800 ft in the tunnel of Le Lioran (see below). The
best views are to the right. — Beyond (146 M.) Lempdes the line
ascends the picturesque and in places very narrow valley of the Alag-
non, — 154 M. Bleale, on the right, at the foot of columnar basaltic
rocks ('orgues'). — 158 M. MasHac. — 162 M. Molompise. Fine
view into a valley on the left The river frets along on the right
and on the same side are the ruins of a castle. 167 M. Ferrieres,
173 M. Nenssargrues (Buffet- Hotel), Line to St, Flour, Millau,
and Beziers, see R. 38; road to Condat and Bort^ see p. 242.
We next perceive , at a distance on the right , the ruins of the
Chateau de Merdogne. Me recross the Alagnon.
I78V2 M. Murat (3020 ft; *n6tel Lestang), a quaint and pic-
turesque little town with 3391 inhab., at the foot of a basaltic rock
(^/ghr. ; view) crowned by a colossal statue of the Virgin. — Bredona,
opposite Murat, has a fine Romanesque church (11th cent.) on a rock.
From Murat a picttiresque road leads through the 'Monis du Gonial
to (261/2 M.) Sttlert (p. 242). Carriage 50 fr. ; to the (14 M.) Fob de Peprol,
for the ascent of the Puy Mary (Va hr. ^ see below), 25 fr.
On the left the Plomb du Cantal appears (see below ) ; on the
right, the Chateau de Masaebeau, The valley contracts as we enter
the region of the Monta du Cantal and the line rapidly ascends
(best views on the right). The nearest large peak is the Puy Qriou ;
farther to the right are the Puy Mary and other summits (see below).
186 M. Le Lioran (3780 ft; *B6t. dea TouHatea; Daude\ a
good centre for excursions.
The '^Plomb du Cantal (^)95ft.), which may be ascended from Le Lioran
in less than 2 hrs. (guide, 6 fr., not indispensable) is. volcanic, like all
the mountains of Auvergne , and culminates in an isolated cone, whence
radiate a number of valleys. The view from the summit is said to command
a circumference of 150 M. In the neighbourhood^ to the 6., is the Puy
Oros (5245 ft.) and to the N.W. the Puy Qriou (5560 ft.), while farther
off are the Puy Mary (5860 ft.), the Puy Chavaroche (5720 ft.), the Puy Violent
(5230 ft.), etc., all forming part of the same group. To the If. are the Monts
Dore (p. 224), with the Puy de Sancy, and the Monts Ddme (p. 218); to
the £. the Cayennes and the Alps; to the S.S.£. the Pyrenees.
The *Puy Hary (5860 ft.), the peak most frequently visited next to the
Plomb, may be ascended in SVa brs. from Le Lioran. — The ascent of the
♦Puy Griou (5560 ft.), which commands the most interesting view of the
Cantal group, takes only I-IV2 hr. , by the old route through fine pine-
woods, to the W. of the Signal du Lioran (4490 ft.).
Beyond a viaduct we now enter the Tunnel du Lioran, I1/4 M.
long , in which the line attains its culminating point (3800 ft.),
and by which we pass from the basin of the Loire to that of the
Garonne, where we descend the valley of the Cere. Above the rail-
way is the Col de Sagnea (4100 ft.), between the Puy Lioran (4660 ft.)
and the Plomb du Cantal (see above). A road also passes through
a tunnel here, nearly 1 M. long, always lighted. — We cross a via-
duct, 100 ft. high, and beyond a short tunnel, three more viaducts,
nearly as high. To the right is the Puy Griou, to the left the
256 IIL Route 37. AURILLAC.
Plomb du Cantal. — 190 M. -S*. Jacquea-des- Biota (3250 ft.). The
village (inn) lies V2 M. distant in the valley.
The Plomb du Cantal may be aseended from this point also, in 31/4-
31/3 hrs. \ guide 5 fr. We cross the Gere and the railway above the station,
and ascend towards the N.E. (short-cuts by the footpaths) over pastures,
with herdsmen^s huts (''burons^. In 20min. we reach the huts of St. Erval^
and in 35 min. more the Orange du Sarret. Thence we proceed to the left to
the (50 min.) ^buron' of the Pri DelboSj which we leave on the right (fine
view), and in 1 hr. more we reach the ''buron* of Pranadal at the base of the
crest, by which we climb in 1/2 hr. to the summit of the Plomb (see p. 256).
Beyond St. Jacques the route is not less interesting. The Cere
flows through splendid gorges, along which the railway is carried by
works of great engineering skill. Behind us, to the right, appears
the Puy Chavaroche , while on the left we skirt the Puy Gros. —
Beyond (194 M.) Thidzac we traverse fine wooded gorges. Exten-
sive view to the right farther on.
I96V2 M. Vic-Bur-Ctoe ('2230 ft.; Grand- Hotel, R. from 3,
D. 4V2 fr. ; du Pont, Vialette, well spoken of), beautifully situated,
with remains of fortifications. In the environs are chalybeate and
aerated springs, used chiefly for drinking. — 199Vj M. Polminhac
with the 16th cent. Chdteau de Pestel (restored). Farther on are sev-
eral other old castles. We now enter the plain. Beyond (206 Vt M.)
Arpajon the line turns to the N. On the right is Aurillac.
209 M. AuriUac (2007 ft; Buffet-, Hotel St. Pierre, in the
Gravier, far from the station, R.2V2, B. 1, d^j. 3, 0.37, fr.; de
Bordeaux; des Trois Frlres; du Commerce), on the Jordanne, with
16,886 inhab., is the chief town of the department of the CarUal.
The street which descends from the station leads to the Place du<
Palais-de-Justice, whence is seen, on the right, the pretty Renais-
sance tower of Notre-Dame aux Neiges. Hence the Avenue Gambetta
leads to the Oravier, or Court Monty on, a square decorated with
bronze statues of General Delzons (1775-1812), by Vital-Dubrayv
and Gerhert (Pope Sylvester II.), of Aurillac, by David d' Angers.
The Church of St. Geraud, farther on, to the right, is a 15th cent,
building, recently^ completed. It was dependent on an abbey founded
in the 9th cent, by its patron saint, born in the chftteau of Aurillac.
It has finely reticulated vaulting. In a chapel on the left are some
paintings of the 16th cent., and behind the pulpit a Death of St.
Francis Xavier, attributed to Zurbaran.
From the door of the church we may see, on an eminence, the
Chdteau, in great part rebuilt and transformed into a normal school.
— The Rue du Monastere and the Rue du Consulat , on the right,
lead into the middle of the town. At the end of the Rue du Con-
sulat is the Maiion Conaulaire, a 16th cent, house, with turrets and
a fine Gothic gateway in the street on the left
The former College, in the vicinity , contains a small Muaee of
paintings and sculptures, open to the public on Sun. and Thurs.
from 1 to 4, and on others days also to strangers.
From Aurillac to ifotUluton (Paris), see p. 342; to Brivt, see p. 88.
ST. FLOUR. ///. BouU 38. 257
214 m. Yttac, On the right the view extends as far as the Monts
Dore, dominated by the Puy de Sancy (p. 224).
247V2 M. Vit6eam'P'S0U9-JalU8 is the junction for the line to
St. Denis-pres-Martel (p. 88). Railway to Montln^on , see p. 242.
— !219M. La ChapelU'Viescamp, beyond which is a high viaduct,
the last over the valley Of the O^re. On the right the view is fine
and extensive. — 224Vt M. Le Rouget. Numerous bridges and
tunnels are traversed in the next twenty miles , at first in the wild
gorge of the Moullgrt and afterwards in the valleys of the Ranee
and the C^d. 231 M. Boisset; 237 M. Afaurs; 241 Vj M. Bagnac,
250Vt ^' Figeac, and thence to (349 M.) Toulouse, see p. 94.
38. From Clermont-Ferrand to B^ert,
▼i& St. Flonr and HUlaa.
240 H. Railway in IOS/4 brs. (fares 43 fr. 56, 98 fr. 45, 19 fr. 90 c);
one through-train daily. — From Paris to B^ziers the distance by this
line is 500H. (express In 3OI/3 hrs.), while it is 533 M. vi& Limoges and
Rodes and 668 or 575 M. ▼!& Limoges and Toulouse.
From Clermont-Ferrand to (37 M.) Arvant, see pp. 211, 212;
thence to (67 M.) Neussargues, see pp. 254, 255. — The railway
leaves the valley of the Alagnon, ascends rapidly to the S. £. , and
beyond a tnnnel over '/^ M. long reaches the basaltic platean of the
Planete, To the right are the mountains of the Oantal (p. 255). —
71 Va M. Talisat (3265 ft) ; 76V2 M. Anddat.
79 M. St. Floor (2900 ft. ; H6td CourHol; de V Europe i du Midi),
an Old town of 5605 inhab. , occupies a remarkable situation on a
basaltic plateau, which rises about 350 ft. above the valley in which
the railway runs. The road (2 M. ; short-cuts for pedestrians) leads
to the W^ from the station, and, skirting a height partly composed
of basaltic pillars , ends in the Promenades (fine view). The Ccb-
thedral, of the 14- 15th cent., dedicated to St. Florus, the apostle
of the district, contains fine modern stained -glass windows and
works of art.
An Omkxbub (3-4 fr.) plies henee in 31/q hrs. to (SOl/a M.j Ghaudesaigues
(2130 ft. ; Etablitiement ThertMa; Eita du Midi or Giniiiy)^ a small watering-
place to the 8., in the valley of a tributary of the Truy^e. It has five
thermal springs and three eold ehalybeate springs. The former, though
not highly charged with mineral Ingredients , are the hottest springs in
Franeci (varying from 134 to 178 ^ Fahr. ). Ghaudesaigues is only 161/2 M.
from the station of St. Gh^ly (p. 358), yia (8 H.) FoumeU.
We cross a viaduct To the left appear the hills of La Mar-
geridt (5100 ft.). — About 2V2 M. beyond (86V2 M.) Ruines we cross
the famous *Yiadiio de Garabit, which spans the gorge of the Tru-
yhe and is 607 yds. long and 400 ft. high.
The central span of this viaduct (542 ft.) was at one time among
the widest in the world, but it has been far out-distanced by the Forth
Baedeker. Southern France. 4th Edit. 17
258 ///. Route 38. MfiNDE. From Clemumt-Ferrand
Bridge (1890) , with two spans of 1710 and 1700 ft. , and th« Brooklyn
Suspension Bridge (1888), with a span of 1006 ft. It wm eonttrueted by
Boyer and Eiffel, and is best viewed from below. It is built of iron,
with five reticulated piers, more than 200 ft. high, supported on huge
bases of solid masonry.
89 M. Oarabit Station (caf^- restaurant; hotel). The railway
erosses the broken plateaux of the Lozere and attains its highest
point (^65 ft.) before reaching St Gh^ly. Views to the right.
101 VsM. 8t. C7t^y-(2'ilpc/ief (B255 ft.; Hotel Bardol), a litUo
town on an eminence to the left , nnsuccesafully besieged by th»
English in the Hundred Years^War (1362).
A DiLiOBKCB (8 fr.) plies hence, in connection with the 10 a. m. train,
to (18 H.) Chaude»aigue» (p. 357). Another plies in the season to (iSl/2 H.)
La ChaldetU^ a hamlet with a thermal establishment.
To the right appear the Monta d*Auhrac (4825 ft ). — Beyond
(113 M.) St. Sauvewr-de^Peyre the best views are to the left We
pass a tunnel, over 1/4 M. long, and the stone Viadue de la Crueize,
200 ft high.
122 M. Marvejohi ^2490 ft ; Hotel de la Paix), a town of 4159
inhab., on the Golagne, rebuilt in the 16th cent after having been
almost entirely destroyed in the Religious Wars. Three gateways
still remain, though the rest of the fortiflcatioiis have been converted
into a handsome boulevard.
124 M. Chirac. - 125V2 M. Le Mona$tier.
From L> Mokastieb to Hbnds, 18 H., railway in 50-6Smin. (fares
8 fr. 36, 2 fr. 26, 1 fr. 60 c). This railway crosses the Cologne^ and runs
to the £. up the winding gorge of the Lot^ traversing several tunnels.
To the S., on the left bank, is the Cauiu de Sauwterre (p. 361).
3 If. le Villard-8aUlU»i 6 M. Chanqc; IOV9 ^- ^<^J^- — 1^ M. Bal-
»ilge». Routes to Ste. Enimie and Ispagnae, see p. 261.
18 M. Kende (3425 ft.; Gr. B6t. de Pari»t Rue de la R^publique ;
Mame^ at the entrance of the town^ du I'Mitr*, new, B. 3, B. i/ti d^-
or D. 3Va fr-), a pleasantly situated town with 6876 inhab. , was formerly
the capital of the Oivaudan^, and is now the chief town of the department
of the Lothre and the seat of a bishopric. It stands on the left bank of
the Lot» at the foot of the Oatuu de Memde (8476 ft.), which raises its per-
pendicular rampart^ 1000 ft. above it. The *Catnedral^ originally of the
l4th cent., was rebuilt between 1000 and 1620, after haying been partly
destroyed by the Calvlnists. It has two towers datiiif from 1606'15ri. In
front of the cathedral is the bronze statue, by Dumont, of Urban F., the
6th of the Avignon Popes, and a native of the district. The ifnsie eon-
tains interesting natural history and archssologieal eolleetions, eoini, pie-
tares, etc. Above the town is the Ermiiage de Si. Priwaty an aneient and
much frequented pilgrim-resort. We ascend (about V4 hr.) by a road
diverging to the right from the upper part of the bouleyard paMing in
front of the Place de la Cath^drale.
The railway is to be continued to La Bastlde (p. 368). — Dlligvaee
from Hende to Langogne and Villefori^ see p. 367 (fares 8, 4 fir.) ; to Bmg-
neU^ see p. 368 (fares 1 fr. 70 c, 3 fr.). — Boutea to 9U. Enimie^ see p. 361.
The line to Balers descends the picturesque gorge of the Lot^
passing numerous tunnels. To the left are the Gausse de Sauvetenre
(p. 261), a lofty bridge, and a ruined cbiteau. —^ ISlVfM. BanoMot-
la-Canourgue (inn). Hence to the Ga&on of the.Tarn, see p. 264. —
139Vt M. Campagnac'St'>Oenie%.
to Bezitr: MILLAU. ///. Bvutt 38. 259
A diligence (IV2 fr.) plies hence to (8H.) St. O^TUBn - A* Olt (H6tel
Lahorde)^ a eloth-making town of 3289 inbab., picturesquely situated on
the Lot. — From St. Genier to (IO1/2 M.) E»palion^ see p. 112.
The railway crosses the W. end of the Gausse de Sauveterre^
passing through two tannels. 142 M. Tamesque. Tunnel, Vz^* ^^^K,
146V2 M. S6T6rM-le-ChAteaa (Buffet; Hotel SMnU), a town
with 3253 inhah. , is commanded by a ruined castle, which existed
ill the 13th century. — Railway to Rodez and Capdenac, see R. 16.
We now cross the Aveyron, ascend an incline, with a tunnel
*/2M. long, and descend again towards the valley of the Tarn. —
159 M. Quezaguet. We skirt, ou the left, the gorges of the Tarn
(p. 262). — 162 M. Ague88ac. Road to Peyreleau, see p. 265.
166M. HUlan. — Hotels. Du Commbrcb, Place Handarous, with caf€,
B. 31/2-5, d^i. 3, D. 8I/2 fr. ; db Pravcb, Boul. de la R^publique, R. from
11/2, dej. 21/2-3 fr.
MUUm (1207 ft.), the jEmUianum Ccutrum of the Romans, is a
town with 18,754 inhah., on the right hank of the Tarn. In the
16th cent, it was one of the principal strongholds of the Galvinists,
but it lost ground after the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes. Its
production of kid gloves is considerable. The town contains little
of interest beyond Notre-Dame, a church in the Romanesque and
Renaissance styles, with galleries in place of aisles, and a tower (16-
17th cent) in theTolosan style; the Plcice de rHdiel-de-Ville, with
arcades dating from the 12-15th cent ; and the modern Romanesque
Church of St, Francois,
For the route to Pe^eleau^ MeyrueiSy Montp^Uier-le-Vieux (Gorges of
the Tarn^ Causses), etc., see pp. 266, 267.
Fbom Millau to Namt CXa Rogue - 8te • Marguerite) ^ 20VaM. , public
conveyance daily in about 31/2 bn- (fare 21/2 fr.). The road follows the
picturesque VdUey of the DourUe (p. 266) via (8I/2 H.) La Roque- Ste-Mar-
ffuerite (p. 266), at the foot of the rocks of Montpeaier-le-Vieux (p. 266). —
121/2 M. St. r^ran, picturesquely situated at the month of the imposing
*Ravine of St. Viran , which descends from the Causae Noir (p. 266). —
Near (15Va M.) Oardiet are mines of lignite. — 17 M. Cantohre is curiously
built among dolomitic rocks resembling ruins. — 201/2 M. Nant^ see p. 260.
We continue to follow the valley of the Tarn for a short distance,
then quit it for the valley of the Cernon. To the left are the clififs of
the Larzac , more extensive and wilder than the preceding causses.
181 M. Tonrnemire {Buffet-Hdtel, at the station), picturesquely
situated below the high cliffs of the Larzac.
About I1/2 M. to the N. W. is Roquefort, celebrated for its cheeses.
These are mostly made in the environs of the place, of goats* and sheep's
milk, but acouire their excellence in the grottoes and rocky caves under
the village. The mould on the cheese is due to musty bread powdered
and mixed with the curds. The smell in the grottoes is rather strong.
Roquefort exports about 13 million lbs. of cheese, worth about 280,0001.
A branch -railway runs from Tournemire to (9Va ^O St Affiriqne
(Cheval Vert)y a town with 7026 inhab., on the Sor^ues, overlooked by a
curious rock, whenci^ it is to be continued to Albi (p. 96)-
Fbom Toobmbmibe to Lb Vioav, 381/2 M., railway in 2 hrs. (fares
6 fr. 95, 4 fr. 70, 3 fr. 6 c). This line is highly interesting from an en-
gineering point of view \ tunnels, viaducts, etc., are numeroua. — 3 X. La
17*
260 IIL Route 38. BEDARIEUX.
Bttitidf Pradiiifs. — At (81/3 M.) 8U. EulalU'de'Cemon are remains of a
eommandery of tbe Knights Templar. — Beyond (I21/2 X.) VBotpiUUet
we reach the monotonous plateau of the Lareae (p. 359). — I81/3 M. Namt-
Cotnberedonde lies 5 H. to the S. (omn. 75 c.) of Haat (Bfitel Bcuat)^ a little
town in a well-watered and fertile valley, oyerlooked on the' K. by
the Roe NantaU (3775 ft.), on the S. by the Roe de St. Afban (2630 ft.). —
Bevond (23 H.) 8aueUhre$ (whence an omnibus runs io £V. JeanSm^BmH^
41/3 M. to the K.) the descent becomes more rapid. — 27 M. Alxomt on
the Vis , beyond which we pass the Tunnel de la NougarMe (V4 M . long).,
whence a subterranean stream issues in a cascade. — 31 H. Aumeisat^ in m
wooded valley. — 331/3 M. Arre-en-Bet; 36Vs M. Apize-MoUim. — dS^/aH.
L€ Vigam, see p. 419. Thence to Minei and UontpelUer^ see pp. 419, 269.
The gradients on the line are abrupt, and the nuoLerous small
stations are separated by tunnels and viaducts. 199 VtM. Le$ Ckihrils,
On tbe left we overlook tbe valley of a tributary of tbe Orb, and
beyond (2057: M,) Lunas we enter the cbarmi^g VaUey of the Orh,
Olive, almond, and flg trees begin to appear.
212 M. Bidarienz (Buffet ; Hdtel du Midi) , a commercial town
(5968 inhab.), with clotb-factories and tanneries, on tbe Orb.
Railway to Castres (Montanban) vi& Lamalou and 3t. Pons^ and con-
tinuation to Monipellier, see B. 16.
From BioARiBux to Ohaissbsac (LeuMune)^ 6i/« U., branch-railway In
1/3 hr. — OraisMsae (fftUl dn Commtree)^ about 1 M. from the station,
with 2982 inhab., has considerable mines of coal, iron, copper, and argenti-
ferous lead. — An interesting road (public conveyances \ oO c.) leads from
the station to (Si/o M.) Si. Gerxait-VilU (p. 109) through the valley of the JCarr,
and thence to (331/3 H.) Laeaune (5 fr.; p. 107), via ITtirof - mr • Wr«
(hotel), a town on Uie Agout, with an old chateau.
Beyond B^darieuz tbe B^ziers railway diverges to the left from
the valley of the Orb. — 219 M. Faughre$. Line to Montpellier
via Paulhan, see R. 15.
Three more short tunnels and four small stations. — 233 Vt M.
Lieuran^Bibaute , a station whicb owes the latter part of its name
to tbe Chdteau de Ribaute (^Ripa alta'), to tbe left.
240 M. Beziers (p. 103).
39. The Caustet and the Canon of the Tarn.
The Caossbs are , as their name Indicates (Latin *ealx*), plateaux of
Jurassic limestone, occurring in the Losire and the neighbouring dejpart-
ments. The principal are the Caiuse de Sauveterre (p. 261), Caiuse M^oam
(Mu Milieu* ; p. 2610, Gauiee Noir (p. 265), and the Lartae (p. 260). They are
bounded by the yalleys of the Lot, Tarn, Jonte, and IXonrMe, by some of
their tributaries, and by the tributaries of the H^raulC. The plateavx
themselves are merely bare uplands 2500-370011. above the sea, wltboat
water, and almost treeless, where scarcely anything beyond a little barley
and oats will grow, and with a very scanty population. Here and there
the general level is broken by ^Couronnes* (Ncrowns'*) or mounds; and at
certain spots, particularly on the Causse M^jean, are ^avens* or chasms
into which the rainfall sinks, to issue again in the copious spiings of the
gorges. There are also a number of dolmens or table-stones. The gorgea
worn by the rivers are, however, exceedingly Interesting, especially the
Ca^on of the Tam (p. 262).
The Gausses and the Canon of the Tarn ave now most eottrealently
explored from Mende or from Bana$»aO'lm-Canou¥gu$ ^ from wbieb polau
a series of diligence • routes in eoaneetlon with tbe trains have been
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THE GAUSSES. ///. Rmite 39. 261
rganifted for the summer-months by the Southern of FraneelBftilway Co.
soeiety, known ail '^La Fr&nee Pittoresque\ has also organised, in eon-
eetion with a tourist - agency ., a series of trips in this region, but the
istrietions in regard to choice of routes and hotels, etc., are not always
)nvenient. — Little luggage should be taken on a yisit to the Gausses, but
arm clothing should not be forgotten. — The most interesting part of
le Canon and Hontpellier-le-Viettx may also be Tisited from Miuem.
. From Xende to 8te. Enimie , Le Hosier (][oiitpellier«*le«Yieiix),
and Xillau.
The expedition from Mende to Millau via the Canon of the Tarn may be
lade in a single day if an early start be made and all detours avoided,
he digression to Hontpellier-le-Vieuz requires fully i/s day^more.
Travellers are conveyed from Mende to Millau in 2 days by the railway,
iligenees, and boats for 45 fr. (from Pas-de-Soucy to Les Vignes, p. 2^,
; the tourist^s expense) ^ the night is spent at La Maline (p. 264). — The
>urist-agency*s fare for the entire journey from Mende to Millau is 50 fr.
Post Cart CCourriers') ply from Mende to Ste. Enimie (2-3 fr.), to
lorae, Ispagnae and Ste. Enimie, toMeyrueis, etc.; and CarWa{7«« may
e hired for little more than the diligence -fare. An OnrnHmt also plies
> Florae (2 fr.).
I. Fv«m Kende to Bte.lXnimie.
a. yi& SaaTeterre, ITl/j M. , in 4hrs. ^ carriage for 2 pers. 19, for
pers. 24 fr., 5fr. extra in each case for an additional person on the box.
Mende, see p. 258. — The road at first follows the valley of the
jOt, crosses the stream about 1 V4 M. from the town, passes the station
f (4Vt M.) BalHegea (p. 258), and ascends in curves to the barren
lateau of the Causse de Sauveterre{s^b below), across which it runs,
^ine view as we ascend. At the top the road via Ispagnae (see below)
iiverges to the left; to the right is the ChoAcU, an old ch&teau, now
farm-house. About 7^/g M. from Balsieges is the little village of
lauvetcrre (3420 ft.) , and farther on is the hamlet of Bac, The road
hen winds down into the Canon of the Tarn , opposite the lofty
liffs of the Causse M^jean. — ITVj M. Ste. Enimie (p. 263).
h. Tii Iflpapiac, 90 M., in 8 hrs., fares as above.
This route is the same as the preceding until the Causse de
iauveterre is reached. Here it diverges to the left, by the £. end of
he causse, and descends to the S. £., affording a fine view of the
Lam Canon. Instead of going as far as Ispagnae, we may turn to
he right before the village is reached , at the point where the Ste.
ilnimie road diverges. — IT^/j M. Ispagnae (p. 262). Continuation
•f route, see' p. 263.
e. Via the Col de Kontmirat, Florae, and lepagnae, 4^1/2 M., in 12-14
irs., including 3 hrs.' halt at Florae-, fares 26 or 40 fr. (see above). Time
s saved by taking the Ispagnae road at a point 41/3 M. short of Florae
.nd omitting a visit to the latter village.
d. Vi& Lanu4Jols, the Ool de Mtontmirat, and Ispagnae, 411/2 M., same
imes and fares as the preceding, 3hrs.* halt being made at the inn of
folinette below the col. This route is very much the same as the
treceding, Lanu^jols being visited instead of Florae.
Mende, see p. 268. — Route c. coincides with the first two as far
IS (41/2 M.) Balsieges, but at this point it enters a valley between the
.^ausse de Sauveterre and the Causse de Mende. It then leads past
262 ///. Route 39. ISPAONAG.
(6V2 M.yRouffiac and joins the following route about il^l^'iA, from
Mende, near the col.
Route d, leads to the E. of the Gausse de Mende and passea
{6^/2 M.) the village of Lanuejoh, with a Roman tomb of great size.
— Beyond St. Etienne-du-Valdonnh (1136 inhab.), at a point
about 11 M. from Mende, we join the preceding route, and ascend
to the (2*/2 M.) Coi de Monimir at {3^S0 ft.), whence there is a very
fine view. Beyond (3 M.) Nozih'es we enter the valley of the Tarn,
where the road to Ispagnac diverges at a point 4^} Af. short of Florae.
Florae (2290 ft. ; Hdtel Donnadieu; Melquion) is a to\vn of 1947 inhab., at
the foot of the Causse Mijean or ilijan and on the left bank of the Tarnon^
a tributary of the Tarn. Its principal object of note is the Source du
Pickery whieh , rising in the Gausse above the town , forms fine cascades
after heavy rains. A monument was erected here in 1890 to Boyer (d. in
Panama), the designer of the Viaduc de Garabit (p. 257). A road leads
hence to the E. to (16 M.) Pont - de - Montvert (p. 268).
Feom Florac to Hbyrubis (22 M.). This route is a continuation of
the preceding into the Tarnon valley, dominated on the right by the
escarpments of the Gausse Mdjean, more than 1900 ft. high. — 6 M. Saigas^
with a fine chateau. Beyond (8 M.) Ki^&ron we 4|uit the valley. — From
(11 M.) Frais»inet-de-Fourquei the road ascends to the Col de P«rjar«t
(3380 ft. \ shelter-hut). This is the only point where the Causse Mejean is
not isolated; a neck of land connects it with the Aigoual (p. 267). We
descend into the valley of the Jonte, which bounds the Gausse on the S.
— 17 M. Gatutik-e^ — 22 M. MeyrueU (p. 267).
Ispagnac (1740ft.; Hotel Saury), a picturesquely situated and
straggling village , 10^/2 M. from Ste. Enimie, on the right bank of
the Tarn and at the mouth of the Canon. Opposite the village the
Tarn forms a peninsula , on which is Quexac , connected with Is-
pagnac by a bridge of the 14-i7th centuries.
The ^Cafion du Tarn, or Gorges du Tarn, still more b(^autiful
beyond Ste. Enimie or rather St. Gh^ly, and particularly so between
LaMalene and Le Pas-de-Souci, begins at Ispagnac and extends as
far as Le Rozier , a distance of about 30 M. It is the most cu-
rious of the gorges produced in the Causses by the erosion of the
streams , which were much more abundant during the glacial epoch
in the C^veiines. As the name indicates, it has suggested com-
parison with the celebrated Caiion of the Colorado in the United
States. To the right and left the sheer rocks of the Causses de
Sauveterre and Mejean rise to a height of from 800 to 1100 ft , the
distance between their summits varying from Vs to V4 M. It is dif-
ficult to imagine a more impressive gorge. Gigantic ramparts and
perpendicular cliffs at one time overhang the river, at others retire
in terraces , formed of the several strata of the limestone and as
varied in outline as they are in colour. Here the rocks are shivered
into a thousand different shapes and there appear yellow limestone,
black schistous marl, and pink and brown dolomite. In addition
there is abundant vegetation (vines and fruit-trees), 'affording a
charming contrast to the rocks, as well as clear and copious springs
and numerous caverns. The windings which the gorge describes in
STE. BNlMlfi. ilL Route 39, 263
its 30 [M. couEse contribute to its beauty and provide a series of
pleasant surprises for the traveller. Even when the end is reached,
we have still to explore the very curious gorges of the Jonte
and the Dourbie and MontpelUer^U-Vieux (p. !^6).
The Route fbom Ispaonao to Stb. Enimie (about 4 hrs. on foot)
follows the right bank of the Tarn, passing the picturesquely situated
Chdteau de Rochehl(Wf{i^th cent), recently restored. A little farther
on, on the left bank, is a mill worked by one of the numerous springs
formed by the rains which filter through the limestone of the Gausses.
22V8 M. (from Mende) Monthrun^ also on the left bank. The road
then passes the hamlets of Poujoh and Bldjoux. On the other side are
the ruins of the Chdteau de Charbonnieresj and farther on Castelbouc,
where there is another ruin. This is the most remarkable point be-
tween Ispagnac and Ste. Enimie and one of the prettiest parts of the
gorge. In a neighbouring grotto is a very copious spring. — ^SVa M.
Prades, on the right bank. The ramparts of theOausses, already very
high, approach the river more and more closely at Les Ecoutas (echo).
30 M. Ste. Snimie (1575 ft.; H6td Malaval, Bruno ^ pens. 7 fr.;
boats J see below), a town of 1044 inhab., owes its origin to a mon-
astery, founded about 630, of which a few uninteresting remains
are left. It occupies a curious position, at one of the great angles
formed by the gorge and in a kind of huge well , 1650 ft. deep.
Above issues the beautiful Fontaine de Burle and below is the
Source du Cousaac, The river is spanned by a bridge, across which
passes the road via the Gausses from Balsieges (p. t£Sd) to Meyrueis
(16V«M. from Ste. Enimie; p. 267).
n. From Bt». BainiM to Le Boafor.
26 M. By boat on the Tarn (included in the exeaMioa - tickets), in
8 bn. \ fare 36 fr. for 1-5 persons. Boats are changed several times, and
the distance from Pas de Souey to Les Vignes (p. 365), about IV4 H., is
performed on land (seat in a carr. 1 fr.). Luggage is transported without
extra charge , but large packages should not be brought if the traveller
proposes to walk from Pas-de-Soucy to Les Vignes. — Some travellers
may prefer to make the entire expedition on foot, both because they can
thus examine the gorges more at their leisure , and because the boat-
journey, though not dangerous, presents various difficulties that distract
attention.
Boats take about 3V2 hrs. , excluding halts , to perform the dis-
tance from Ste. Eninkie to La Malene. There is also a footpath
(4>4V4hr8.) on the right bank. By eitiier route the every -varying
scenery steadily increases in grandeur and interest beyond St. Gh^y.
— At (IV4 hr.) St. Chely-du-Tam , a village on the left hank, the
gorge forms a second elbow or angle , and again turns soon after-
wards at Les Pougnadoirea (inhabited grottoes), where there is a dam.
Many minor windings are also passed , each revealing some unex-
pected beauty. To the right is the Chdteau -Hdtel de la Coze (R. 3,
B. IVst d^j* 3, D. 4, pens. 9 fr.), before which the path ascends to
cross the Pas de VEscalette, a flight of steps protected by a railing.
264 IlL nmtt 39* LA MALENE.
In 1 hr. from Les Pougnadoires we reach the dam of HauterUfe, a
village with a ruined castle , affording a very fine view of our road.
At La McUene, 1-1 V4 hr. f^om Hauterive, we meet the road from
Banassac (see below). Hence to Le Rosier and to MiUau, see below.
b. From BanaiBao-la-Caaonrgne tp La VaUnei Le Boiier ^.^_
(Xontpellier-le-Yieiiz), and Millan.
The Canon of the Tarn, or at least its finest parts, may be visited
from this side in a single day, even by travellers not quitting St. Flour
or Millau until the first train in the morning.
I. From BanaMae to La KaUne.
16 M. Gabeiaos in 31/3 hrs. (fare for 1*3 pers. 12, for 4-5 pers. 30 fr.).
Banassac (station, p. 258) is a large village on the left bank of
the Lot J at its confluence with the Urugne« We ascend the valley
of the latter vi4 the little town of (IV4 M.) La Carumrgtte, beyond
which we reach the desolate plateau of the Causse de Sauveterre
(p. 261). Crossing the causse, we descend a gorge into the Canon
of the Tarn , opposite the imposing Causse M^jean (p. 262).
La Maldne (Hdtel Monginoux, d^j. 2V2 fr-)} ^ considerable vil-
lage, with a bridge, lies near the finest part of the Tarn Gailon. Here
also are a chateau belonging to the family of Montesquieu du Tarn,
an abundant spring, and several grottoes.
n. From La KaUne to Lo Eoiior.
IBt/s ^- Small Boat In 5 hrs. (fare 23 fr., included in exeursloi-
tickets \ comp. p. 361).
We skirt on the left the Rocker du Planioly with the ruins of s
cas tie. Beyond the Source de V Angle, to the right, we pass the Rocker
de Montesquieu , on which also are ruins , to the left, and reach the
entrance of the Detroit.
The *D6troit, also called Les Etroits, 40min. f^om LaMaUne and
about 3 M. long, is the most remarkable part of the Tarn Gaflon. The
gorge here contracts to a width of leas than Vs M. between the summits
of its flanking rocks, which exceed 1600ft. in height. As the gorge
winds the rocks seem to bar the passage , and sometimes they over-
hang so much that they appear to form a gigantic bridge across
the river. The whole effect is majestic, without any approach to
the grotesque, while the picturesqueness is enhanced by the rich
colouring of the cliffs. The climax of the whole scene is reached
at La Croze, where we emerge ftrom the Detroit and enter the HIirque
dee BanmM, a sort of gulf at an angle of the cafton. Here lie the
hamlets of Les Baumes- VieiUes and Les Baumes^ Beisses and the
pilgrimage Ckapel of St. Hilaire, perched on the sides of the cirque.
A^^splendid ^Yiew is commanded from the Point Suhlinu (196011.).
a I cliff rising above the cirque and ascended in V4''l b'* ^y & very
rocky path. At Les Baumes* Ckaudes , to the N., is a grotto with
three stories. Farther on we pass through another magnificent defile
before reaching the Pas de Soucy.
LE ROZISR. ///. Routt 89. 265
The Pat de Soucy, 2V4brs. f^om La Malene, is a chaos of fallen
rocks, where the Tarn disappears from view, and boat^navigation is
interrupted (carr., see p. 263). A path starting from Les Baumes
follows the right bank, in front of the Sourde, one of the largest
rocks, and dominated also on the right by the Aiguille, 260 ft. high.
IV4 M. Les Vignes (small inn); on the opposite bank lies St.
Prejet 'du- Tarn. Here we find the fourth of the Tarn bridges in
the canon crossed by the roads over the Gausses. The boat-journey
onward presents serious difficulties in the shape of rapids in mid-
channel. The descent to Le Rozier is made in 2 hrs., whilst for the
ascent 8 hrs. are necessary. By the footpath on the right bank it
takes 2V2 hrs. We pass Villaret and (3 M.) Camhon. On the other
bank are some ruins, the Pcls de VArc, La Sabliere, and the Pic de
Cinglegros (3280 ft.). On the right bank are the cirque and hermi-
tage of St. Marcellin. Then, on the same side, the Mas de la Font ;
on the left Plaisance, beyond which the caflon widens to form the
basin of Le Rozier.
To the left is Le Rozier (1280 ft.; Hot. du Pont de la Mute;
des Voyageurs, pens. 8 fr.), a little village at the confluence of the
Tarn and Jonte, with a bridge over each river, and opposite lies
Peyrelean {Rot. Costecalde, well spoken of), with an ancient chateau.
The Roeher de Capluc (2000 ft. ; fine view) may be ascended from
Le Rozier in */4 ht., at the top by iron ladders. — Excursion to the
valley of the Jonte, see p. 267.
ni. From Le RMier to Killau.
a. ViiAguoMae, 13 H., carriage in 21/3-3 hrs. (fare 10 or 16 fr. for 3 or
5 p«r8.). The statioB of Aguessae Is reached i/a hr. before Millau (carr.
same fare). A ''courrier' (1 fr.) also plies twice a day to Aguessac in 2 hrs.
This picturesque part of the vaUey suffers from comparison with
the finer upper part. The Causse Noir (see below) forms here also, on
the left, huge walls, more than 1500 ft. high. — 2^/f M. Mostuejoux.
— 6V4 M. Riviere, a village dominated by the Roeher de Peyrelade
(1825 ft.) and the enormous Ruines de Peyrelade (2780 ft.), where
tbero are caverns used in the manufacture of Roquefort cheese (see
p. 259). — 9V4 M. Aguessac (p. 259). - 13 M. Millau (p. 259).
b. Via KontpelUer-le-Vieux, 231/3 M., carriage in 7-12 hrs., fare 38 fr.
TSot more than 3 pars, can be conveyed in a single carriage, owing to the
nature of the road. Passengers alight oii reaching the plateau and rejoin
the carriage at La Jtoq«e-Ste- Marguerite, beyond HontpelUer. On foot,
Honipellier may be reached in 2 hrs. from Peyreleau^ carriages take 3 hrs.
and mules (6-10 fr.) 21/a hrs. — At La Roque - Ste - Hareuerite we may
use the public conveyances mentioned on p. 299. — It is advisable to take
provisions.
We eross the Jonte and from PeyreUau (see a:bOTe) ascend in rig-
zags to the S., to the Ckncsse Nidr, which owes its name to the d»rk
colour of its weird and stunted pines. A footpath offers a short-cut.
Fine view of the Tarn Canon. We quit the route near the summit,
when it turns tnaily to the E.
266 JIJ. Route S9, MONTPELLIER-LE-VIEUX.
TheBAViNBs OP Lks Palibs ahd thb Riou-Sbc, towards whiek this road
leads, are well worth a visit. We soon pass ilMyrac, and then the Htr-
mitage of St. Jean-de-Balme (ll-13th cent.). Thence a path leads to the
N. to the Ravint of Let PaUity which descends towards the Jonte. In the
ravine is a magnificent view-point from the top of a precipice, on the
other side of which are the ruins of the Hermitage q/ St. Michel ^ on some
isolated rocks, difficult of access (1 hrOi whence there is also a very fine
view over the Jonte valley. The head of the ravine, the Cirque de Ma-
da«««, is also very interesting. In 2 hrs. more we reach the Riou-See, a
ravine to the S. which descends towards the Dourbie. On the side are
the Roquet -Altes ('high rocks': 160-200 ft. high), a sort of natural fort-
ress, seen also from the road. It takes about IVa hr. to descend into
the ravine and ascend on the other side to Maubert (see below).
The path continues in a S. direction and passes the hamlet of
Maubert (2675 ft.; accommodation at the 'Ferme Robert*; guide
3-5 fr.). About */4 M. farther on we reach Montpellier-le-Vieux at
the Cirques de la Millilre and du Lac (see below).
*' *]Koiitpellier-le-yieiiz (perhaps from 'mont pel^% bald mountain)
is not an Inhabited place, but a spot covered with huge rocks and
blocks of the strangest forms, a fantastic ruined city, with imposing
monuments. It remained unknown till 1883. The plateau occupied
by this natural curiosity is about 2 M« long and 1^4 M. broad. In
order to gain an idea of the whole and its general arrangement it is
better not to descend at once into the cirque, but to continue straight
on to the rocks which block on the S. the road by which we approach,
and to mount those on the left, called the Ciutad from their resem-
blance to a citadel. Thence we have a really marvellous *Yiew of
the Cyclopean city. The corridor by which we arrive and its con-
tinuation beyond the rocks very nearly divide the town in two
parts, one to the left or £., the other to the right or W. In the first
are 4 cirques or amphitheatres : to the S., the Rouquettta; to the N., the
Lac; and beyond, to theE., the Ama^« and the Citerne. In the second
is the MUli^re^ comprising the Ville, to the N., and the Forumf to
the S. The ckrque dea Rouquettes is the smallest but the finest ;
its longer diameter measures 1650 ft., the shorter one 650ft., while
the walls are 380 ft. high. Near the Amats the * Porte de Myehut*,
in an isolated rock , and an alley of ^obelisks* are pointed out. A
striking 'View is obtained from the top of the rocks, in the direction
of the Dourbie. An 'aven' (p. 260) separates the Milliere from the
Rouquettes. — We may thence descend directly to the (I'/i M.) —
Valley of the Dourbie , between the Causse Noir and the Larzac.
This is the finest gorge of the Gausses next to the Tarn Caflon, at
least in its lower part near Millau. — La Roque-Ste^ Marguerite
(1310ft; Parguers Inn; guide, Froment) is the nearest village to
Montpellier-le-Vieux , IV4 hr. to the S. of Maubert, and 8M. from
Millau. Ravine of St. Y^ran, see p. 259. Downstream, the prettiest
part is the VoZ N^gre ravine, 2 M. from La Roque. In this part also
is the Orotte d*Aluech. — 57^ M. Le Manna, with the chiteau of
the Bonald family , and the tombs of the cardinal and the philo-
sopher of that name. - 6V4M. Masaebiau. - 8M. MiUau (p. 259).
LANGOGNE. IIL B(mte 40. 267
Excursion fkom La Bosibb to thb Vallbt op thb Jovtb amd Brama-
BiAU. From Le Bozier to Meyrueia, I31/2 M., omRibus twiee daily (2 fr.), In
3-31/3 hrs. This route may also be ineluded in an excursion-ticket to the
Tarn Canon: from Le Kozier to Hiiiau, vii Meyrueis, 41 M.. in 8-10 hrs.
(fares 30 or 35 fr.) \ to Hillau, via Meyrueis and Bramabiau, m/^ M., in IS-
IS hrs. (fares 45 or 50 fr.). — This route ascends the very interesting Vallay
of the Jonte, which at first forms a gorge between the Causse Hejean and
Causse Noir, resembling the Tarn Canon on a small scale. At about
11/2 hr. from Le Bozier is l^e Trutl; S/4 br. farther on we reach Let
Douge$^ at the mouth of a ravine ; and 2 hrs. beyond Les Douzes lies Meyrueis.
Keyrueii (3510 ft. ; Hdtel Rey ; Parguel) is a little town on the Jonte,
near the end of the Causse Nolr. Among the Orottoei in the neighbour-
hood the chief is the fine stalactite cavern known as the Orotto de Bar^
gilan» discovered in 1880 in the Causse Noir, about SVs X. from the
town. The charge for admission is 5 fr., and a special costume (U/s fr.)
must be hired from the custodian. On the other side of the Jonte is
the OratU de Nahrigaty noted chiefly for its old world relics and the
great quantity of bones of cave -bears which have been found in it. —
From Heyrueis to Florae, see p. 362. — A ^courrier' plies hence to (43 H.)
Le Vigan (p. 419) in 7-8 hrs. (9 fr.) vl& a H.) LamuijoU, (13 M.) Trhiet, and
(30 M.) at. Jean-du-Bruel, where we join the road from Millau (p. 359).
About 6 M. to the 8. of Meyrueis is St. Sauweur • des - PoureiU , with
mines of silver - lead and copper. In the neighbourhood , to the E. , is
the curious *Bramabiau (^bellowing ox'), a cascade, 46 ft. high, formed
bv the Banheur. This stream, which formerly fell from a limestone eliff
500 ft. in height, has now bored for itself through the ro«k a subterranean
channel, more than 600 yds. long. It issues from the channel like a tor-
rent, into a gorge 650 ft. deep, hollowed out by its waters. Only the
channel is accessible. The entrance on this side is about 1/2 M. from
Camprieux (3600 ft. ; Philippine Inn), III/2 M. from Heyrueis (8 H. by short-
cuts). Adm. to view the cascade, 3 fr., incl. guide.
The ascent of the Aigoual (5140 ft. \ p. 430), to the S.E., may be made
from Meyrueis partly by carriage (30 M. •, 35 fr.) vii Camprieux (see above)
and the (16 M.) Cot de Sireyride. On foot the ascent is made in about
4-5 hrs. vi& the beautiful valley of the Butdecn^ one of the tributaries of
the Jonte.
40. From Clermont-Ferrand to Htmes,
▼ift the CdTemiM.
189 M. Bailway in 81/2-13 brs. (fares 34 fr. 35, 23 fr. 15, 15 fr. 15 c).
— This interesting route should be taken by day. The best views are
on the left. The line traverses 106 tunnels and 32 viaducts. — From Paris
to Nfmes via Nevers and Clermont-Ferrand, 450 M., Railway in 171/2-24 hrs.
(fares 81 fr. 30, 55 fr., 35 fr. 85 c); visl Lyons and Taraseon, 492 M., in
121/2-26 hrs. (fares 88 fr. 90, 90 fr. 5, 39 fr. 20 c).
Clermont-Ferrand, see p. 214. - Thence to (58 M.) St, Georges-
d'Aurac, see pp. 211, 212. The railway again approaches the Allitt^
which it crosses. Beyond (62V2M.) Langeac (4391 inhab.) we follow
the river, the valley of which increases in interest, and the tunnels
and viaducts are both very numerous and remarkable. 66 Vs M.
Chanteuge$ y with a ruined abbey (14-16th cent.). TOVgM. Prades-
St-Jtdien; 77 M. MonUtrol-d*Allier; 83U. Alleyras-, 92*/? M. Cha-
peauTOUx ; 97 M. Jonchlres, with a ruined 15th cent, eastle, on the left.
104 M. Langrogne (2995 ft.; Buffet; H6t. du Cheioal- Blanc.
Avenue de La Oare), a town with 3634 inhab., ^/2 M. to the S
A DiLioBMO plies hence to Mende, 31 M. to the S.W., in 4?/4 hrs.
(fares 9fr.75, 8£r.50e.)i see also p. 368s under Villefort. We pass near
268 JII, n&ute 40. MONT LOZERE.
(1^1/2 M.) Chdieauneuf'de-Randon, a small town, during the siege of wMch
Bertrand da Gueselin died in 1380. The English governor, who had pro-
mised to surrender, kept his word and placed the keys upon Da Ques-
clin's coffin. — Mende^ see p. 258.
About 91/2 H. to the N. E. of Laneogne, via (3 M. ^ omnibus) PradeUet^
is the little watering-place of Uontbel (hotel).
116V2 M. La Bastide (3360 ft.; buffet), which is to be connected
by rail with Mende (27V2 M. ; p. 258).
About 51/2 ^- to the N.E. is 8t. Laurent - Ins - BainSf a small town and
watering plaee surrounded by mountains.
We now cross the ALller for the last time, enter a tunnel (Vs M.
long) under the watershed of the Cevennes, and pass from the
basin of the I^oire into that of the Rhone. The route here attains
its summit-level (3375 ft.), having risen over 1600 ft between this
point and Langeac (54 M.). It then descends still more rapidly through
eight tunnels, between which we obtain fine glimpses of the country.
— Beyond (122V2 M.) Pr^venMrea we traverse twelve tunnels (the
third nearly 1 M. long) and six viaducts. The last viaduct, 230 ft
high, over the Altier^ consists of two stages, across the lower of
which runs the road to Mende (see below). — 129 M. Tillefort
(1980ft.; Buffet; Hdtel Chcanhon; BcUme; guide, Louis Fraisse).
A DiLioBVCB plies thrice daily in the season to Mende (p. 258), 361/) V.
to the W.N. W., in Bi/j-T hrs. (fare 10 fr. in the first carriage^ 6, 8, or
4 fr. in the others). For pedestrians Villefort is a better starting-point
than Langogne (p. 367). The road ascends the valley of the Altier. Tu
the N. is the Montagne du Goulet (4890 ft.), to the S. Uont Lotkre (see
below). -— 71/2 M. Altier (inns), with an old castle. We then mount to the Coi
du Bleymard (3865 ft.), from which we descend into the valley of the Lot.
Near Le Bleymard (3470 ft. \ inn), a village with 680 inhab., which we leave
to the left , we cross the track (^draye j used from time immemorial by
the flocks of Provence on their way to their summer-pastures on the cen-
tral plateau. To the Pie de Finiels, see p. 369. — I91/2 M. St. Jean-de-BUf-
mard (Hotel St. Jeanv Teissier, oleui^ carriages for Mre) is situated on
the Loi^ the source Of which is 2Vq M. to the N. 22V2 It- St. Jean-du-Toumel.
— 231/2 M. BagnoU-les-Baina (1610 ft.; H6ia Champagne - Lemombe ^ pens.
8 fr. 'y Hdtel det Bain*)., a village on the Lot, with six mineral springs (88*-
107°Fahr.), known to the Romans. — Beyond (30 M.) Ste. HUhne-wt cross
the Lot, and beyond a small col rejoin the route from Langogne (p. 367).
— 32 M. Badaroux. — 36V2 M. Mende (p. 258).
An easy and interesting excursion (2 days) may be made from Ville-
fort to the S.W., to the Mont Loitoe group, including the Roc de Mai-
perttUy the Pic de Finiels^ and the Signal det Laubiee. The first day's ex-
pedition takes9hr8., the second 71/2 hrs. An early start should be made
on account of the heat. From Le Bleymard we may return to Villefort
or go on to Bagnols and Mende.
1st Day. We pass below the railway and proceed to the S. along the
right bank of a brook which we cross at (I8/4 H) Palhh-es. Thence a
bridle-path leads to the (2 hrs.) poor village of Costeiletdes (8430 ft.), whence
a boy or herdsman should be taken as guide at least as far as the Source
of the Tarn^ IV4 hr. higher up. There we turn to the W., and in 8/4 hr.
reach the Roc de Malperius (Si20ft.) which affords a fine view, including
the Algoual to the S., the moontaias of Anbrae and Margeride to the N.,
and the valleys of the Lot and Aveyron to the W. We descend to the S.W.
(not too much in the direction of the Tarn), via Camarquis^ rJ98p<<al, and
Le Matet^ to Pont-de-Monivert (Hi^tel des Cayennes), a market-town on the
Tarn , and on the road from (]henolfaac (18 M. ; p. 269) to FloMe (16 M. \
p. 363). In 1703, after the Revoeatton of ^he Edict of l^aates, there broke
LUNEL. IJL Rmite 41, !269
oat here the Protestant insurreetlon known as the War of the Camisards,
from the shirts (^eamise') worn over their clothes by the insurgents. The
town is still almost entirely Protestant.
3nd Day. We aseend first to the K. of Pont-de-Hontvert, by a ravine,
to (13/4 M.) Chantplong-de-Logh-e, (I/2 M.) Prd-Soulayran (3905 ft.), and (1 M.)
Finieh^ about II/2 hr. from Pont and halfway to the Col de FinieU (short-
cut for walkers). To the W. is the Pip de FinieU (5586 ft.), whence there
is a fine view to the S. and E. From the Signal di» Laubie» (5445 ft.), V4 hr.
to the W., the view includes not only the whole chain of the Gdvennes,
but also the plateaux and the gigantic ramparts of the Gausses. We re-
turn to the col to gain the new Bleymard road, or we may descend direct
to tbe N. by the sheep-track (^draye'; see p. 268). — Le Bleymard^ see p. 968.
Beyond Villefort the country is still very broken, and we enjoy
beautiful glimpses of the O^vennes. Tunnels and viaducts are
still numerous. — 131 M. Concoules-y 138 M. Oenolhac] 142 M.
Chamborigaud. Beyond (144 M.) Ste» C^cile-d' Andorge we quit the
O^venues, and enter the region of the mulberry. — 147*/2 M. La Le-
vade and (150 M.) La Piae belong to the Grand' Combe, a commune
of 13,360 inhab., engaged in the important coal-mines of the district.
157 M. Alaifl (Buffet), see p. 412. Here we Join the line from
Lyons (R. 62), which we follow to —
189 M. Nimes (Buffet), see p. 413.
41. From Nimes to Montpellier and Cette.
48;i/2 M. To (31 M.) Montpellier railway in i-21/4 hrs. (fares 5 fr. 6O1
3 fr. 80. 2 fr. 45 c). — From Montpellier to (I71/2 M.) Cette railway in 8/4.
1 hr. (3 fr. 25, 2 fr. 20, 1 fr. 46 c).
Nimes, see p. 413. The railway traverses an uninteresting plain,
with numerous vineyards , especially beyond Lunel (see below). —
2V8 M. St, Ce»aire, Lines to Aigues-Mortes and to Le Vigan, see
pp. 418, 419. — Beyond (13 M.) Qallarguea we cross the Vi-
dourle,
16VtM;. Lunel (Buffet; Hdtel du Palais- Royal), a town of 7200
inhab., formerly celebrated for its muscatel wines. The Place de la
R^publique is embellished by a small reproduction of Bartholdi's
Statue of Liberty enlightening the World (at New York). There
is also a Mount Calvary here. The partly Romanesque Church
has some ancient paintings in the badly-lighted choir.
A branch-line runs hence to (91/2 M.) Sommih'es via Qallargues^ on the
line from Nimes (see above), and thence via the valley of the Vidourle.
— 91/2 H. Sommiireti and thence to Le Vigan, see p. 419.
Railway from Lunel to Arles^ with branch to Aigues-Mortes^ see p. 441.
I8V2 M. Lunel- Vid. Several other small stations. 27 V2 M. Les
Mazes'le-Cres. We pass into (31 M.) Montpellier in front of the
citadel (on our left) and under the Palavas line (p. 274).
Xoiltpellier. — Railway Station*. Oare de Paris-Lyon-Miditerranie (PI.
D, 5; buffet), for Nimes, Paris, Marseilles, Cette, Perpignan, Bordeaux,
Rodez, etc.; Oart de Palavas (PI. D, 4), for the Palavas line (p. 274)^ Qare
de Rabieux or Montpellier - Chaptal (PI. A, 5), for the line to B^ziers via
M^ze (p. 105).
270: III. Route Ih MONTPELLIER. Peyrm.
Hot«]fl. Gb. HdT. CoMTiiiBiiVAL, Place de U Com^die (PI. d ; €, 4) \ Qkakd
HoTBL CPl. a; D, 5), Rue Haguelone 8, R. from 5, B. II/2. d^j. 31/3, D. 4 ft. \
*Mi:TROPOLB (PI. f ; D,5), Bue du CloB-Ben« a, £. from 4^ B. IV4, d^j. 3i/s,
D. 41/2 fr-) i>v Midi (PL c; 0,5), Boulevard Victor Hugo 9, j»en0. 18 fr.;
Magublokb (PI. hs D, 5), Bue Maguelone 5: Dblmas (Pl.e; G, 5), Bue de
la B^publique 9, B. 2-3, d^j. 3Vs, D. 3fr.; SixAVB, Boul. Victor Hugo 6,
unpretending, with restaurant (d^j. 3, D. 31/3 fr.). — Petition Gommiet^
Faubourg St. Jsumes 8, irtva. 6 fr. per day.
Cafte. Orand'Cafi Riehe^ de France^ de MonipelUer^ Oa/S de la R6t<mde,
all in the Place de la Comedie; &rafMl>0a/^ tf^Z'Op^a, at the theatre (dej.
or D. 3-3 fr.). -> Confeotioners. Caiterguee^ Meuton^ 37 and 19 Bue de la
Loge; Maury ^ Bue du Palais^ others in the Rue Nationale. Stuffed
dates (Mattes farcies*) are a speciality of Montpellier.
BathB. E. Durand, Bue de la tferci 2 (PI. B, 4).
Cabs, with one horse, per drive IV4 fr.> with two horses IVa; P*'
hr. 11/3 and 3 fr.
Electric Tramways. 1. From the Oare F.-L.-M. (PI. D,5) to the Bcole
Normale (PI. A, 1). — 3. From the Octroi de Palavas (P1.D,5,6) to the Es-
planade (PI. D, 3, 4). — 3. From the Octroi de Toulouse (PI. A, 6) to the Peyrou
(PI. A,B,3). — 4. From the Octroi de Lod^e (PI. A, 4) te the Oare de Pit-
lavas (PI. D, 4). — 5. From the Place de la Co/nidie (PI. C, D, 4) to Oastelnau
(PI. D, 1). — 6. From the Hdpital Qiniral (PI. B, 3) to the Hdpital Suburbain
(PI. A, 1). — Fares 5-30 c.
Post and Telegraph Office, Place de la Prefecture (PI. C, 3).
Protestant Churches : Cours Gambettal9, and Bue Magueione, near the
Paris-Lyons station.
Montftllier, a prosperous town of 76,364 inhab., the capital of
the department of t)ie Heravlt and headquarter of the 16th army
corps, is situated on a hill commanding a fine view, with the Le%
flowing below. The modern quarters are well built, but the streets
of the old town are narrow, tortuous, and badly paved.
Montpellier was founded not earlier than 737 en the destruction of Ha-
guelone (p. 374) by Charles Martel , and its prosperity dates only from
the i3th cent., when its still celebrated school of medicine was estab-
lished. The see of Maguelone was tranaferred to Montpellier in 1536. The
latter become a stronghold of Calvinism, and Louis XUI. besieged and
took it in 1633. The university , founded in 1389 and suppressed in 1794,
was re-established in 1896. It is frequented by about 1500 students
(500 medical), of whom 300 are foreigners. There is aUo' atehool of
agriculture. Ifontpellier was the birthplace of Auguste Comte (1798-1857).
The square outside the 8tation (PI. D, 5) is embellished with a
Monument to Planchon (1823-88)^ late director of the Jardin des
Plantes, who introduced the American vine after the devastations
of the phylloxera. — Rue Maguelone, leading to the Place de la
Com^die and the Mus^e, see p. 272.
The Rue de la R^publique leads to the N.W. to the boulevards,
which make the circuit of the old ]town. At the end of the street is
the Tour de la Babotte^ dating from the fortification of the 12th cent,
and afterwards used as an observatory. The following Boulevard de
rObservatoire ends in a little square, containing a statue , by Vital
Dubray, of Ed. Adam (1768-1807), whose improvements in the
preparation of wine have been of great importance for the 8oii4h of
France.
The •Peyrott (PI. A, B, 3, 4), in the higher part of the town, is
a fine promenade dating chiefly from the 17-I8th centuries. The
Cathedral, MONTPELLIER. III. Route 41, 271
Porte du Peyrou on the right side of the boulevard, a triumphal arch,
50 ft. high and 60 ft. wide, was erected in 1691, In honour of
Louis XIV. , by D'Aviler , after D'Orbay. The bas-reliefs represent
the Victories of Louis XIV. , the Union of the Mediterranean with
the Atlantic by the Canal du Midi, and the Revocation of the Edict of
Nantes. At the sides of the great railing of the Peyrou are two stone
groups by Injalbert, Love overcoming Strength. The promenade is
embellished with a bronze Equestrian Statue of Louis XIV., by
Debay (1829), and other statues. At the end is a monumental ^ater
Reservoir (view extending to the Pyrenees), supplied by an Aquer
duct, constructed in 1753-66, which brings the water from a distance
of about 8V2 M. and terminates at the Peyrou in a double tier of
arches, more than ^/j M. long and 70 ft. high. A military band
^lays here on Sundays.
The fine Rue NationcUe (PI. B, C , 3 , 4) extends from the Porte
du Peyrou across the old town to the Prefecture (p. 272) and is to be
prolonged to the Slsplanade. To the left of the Porte is the Palais
de Justice (PI. B, 3), a handsome modern building with a Corin-
thian peristyle, decorated with statues of Cardinal Fleury (1653-
1743; by J. B. Debay) and Cambac^res (1753-1824; a copy), two
famous natives of Languedoc. .
A little below the Peyrou , to the left of the boulevard , is the
large and well-kept Jardin des Plantes (PI. B, 2, 3), the oldest in
France , established by Henri IV in 1593 and organized by Richer
de Belleval (d. 1623). Many fine exotics grow here in the open air.
On the other side of the boulevard, opposite the lower entrance
of the Jardin des Plantes , is the Tour des Pins, a relic of the old
fortifications, now containing the municipal archives. A Provencal
inscription on the facade recalls the fact that James I. of Aragoii
(Don Jayme) was born at Montpellier in 1208. — To the N. is the
Institut de Physique et Chimie (PL B, 2).
The Faoalt6 de M6decme (PL B, 3), adjoining the cathedral (see
l^elow), was formerly the bishop's palace. At the entrance (Rue de
TEcole-de-M^deeine) are statues of the celebrated physicians La Pey-
ronie (1678-1747) and Barthez (1734-1806), both natives of Mont-
pellier. The professor's chair in the large amphitheatre comes from
the Amphitheatre of Nimes. In the council hall and adjoining
room are portraits of professors since 1289.
The school eontains the University Medical Library (open daily, 13.30-
6.90 and 8<10; eloBed in Sept. and Oct.)i an Anatomical Museum (open to
students daily, 13-4), and the Afusie Alger^ a collection of paintings and
drawings (open on Tues. & Frid., 13-4; on other days on application at the
library).
The Cathedral (PL B, 3), founded In the 14th cent. , and partly
rebuilt after the Religious Wars, was recently restored and enlarged
by R^voil. The large and curious but somewhat unattractive porch
on the W. facade has a very high arch supported in front by round
turrets, 13 ft. in diameter. The facade has two additional towers,
272 IlL Route 41. MONTPELLIER. Mutee.
and there aie two more at the transepts, one of which was rehulLt
in 1856. The tastefal modern portal of the S. transept has a tympa-
num by A. Baussan (1884). The handsome broad naye is flanked
by side-chapels between the pillars ; the fine choir is modern. In the
5th chapel on the left is a marble statue of the Virgin , by Santa-
reUi, a pupil of Thorvaldsen. The paintings include a Simon the
Sorcerer, by Seh. Bourdon of Montpeliier, and St. Pi&ter receiying
the keys, by J. de Troy,
A short distance to the S. of the cathedral is the Univevnt^
(PI. 0, 3), the seat of the faculties, of law, literature, and science.
A little to the W. of the cathedral is the Hdtel de ViUe (PI. B,
G, 3), the court of which is Interesting. In the square in firont are
a statue of the poet Mouquin-Tandoun, by Taillefer, and the Fon-
taine des Licornes, by D'Antoine, erected to the memory of Marshal
de Castries, the victor at Clostercamp (1760).
We now return to the Rue Nationale and cross it to yisit the
church of Ste. Anne (PI. B, 4), a modern structure in the Qothic
style of the 13th century. — Adjacent, at No. 14 Rue Eugene Lis-
bonne, is the Conservatoire de Musique, containing an Archaeo-
logical Collectionf to see which a permission is necessary.
On the E. side of the Rue Nationale is the Prefecture (PI. G, 3),
a fine building by B^sln^ (1870), standing in a square embellished
with the pretty Fontaine de la Ville, on which is a marble group
by Journet (1775). Hard by, at the end of the Rue Nationale, is
the Post and Telegraph Office (1884).
The *MuB6e Fabre (PI. D, 3), on the same side, near the Espla-
nade, is now one of the best provincial collections in France, with
upwards of 800 paintings. It is open to the public on Sun., 11 to 4
or 5, and to strangers on other days also, 9 to 12 and 1.30 to 4 or 5.
We enter from the Rue Montpelli^ret, the facade towards which is
adorned with statues of S^b. Bourdon, Vien, and Raoux. We as-
cend to the left.
Ekthavcb Hall. From left to right: 203. F. CHraud^ The huBband's
return; 45. P. Cabanel (of KontpellierX Hero finding the body of Leander-,
216. Okrixe (Montpellier), What one sees at twenty; 374. Ronot^ RMman;
in front, no number, L. Cavalier ^ £cee Homot 3£u. Arf Scheffer^ ^H. H.
Scheffer^ Portraits *, 317. Mtmvoiiin^ Death of Charles IX. ; 288. Em. IHy^
Judgment of Midas; in front, on a stand, Co<, MirelUe; 9, L. Btroud^ At
the Louvre (study).
The Gabimbt to the right of the entrance contains small paintings and
a few sculptures (876-878, busts by Canova).
Principal Oallbrt. To the left: 543. Onerdno^ Head; 468. AUoriy
Madonna and Child; 602. Tintoretto (?), Portrait of a senator; 626. Spag-
noletto. Head of an Apostle; 520. Fra Bartolomeo. Holy Family: 57B.
After Raphael ^ Lorenzo de' Medici; 538. Giordano^ Holy Family; 573. Pe-
rugino (?), St. Christopher, a fresco transferred to canvas; 786. Van der
WUt, Portrait; 483. Oanaletto, Grand CapAl at Venice; 470. A, del Sarto,
Madonna; 896. /ScA^don«, Holy Family ; 603. Titian, Portrait of an old man;
466. Allori, Venus and Cupid; 548. Ouido Reni, Head of the Virgin; 525. Oat
pard Pousain (Dnghet), Landscape; *624. SpagnolettOy St. Mary of Egypt;
587. Salvator Rosa, Nymphs bathing; 98. Palmathe Younger ^ Masiaere of
Mus^e. MONTPELLIBR. 117. R<mtt 41, 273
the inhabitants of Hipponium ; 750. Rnbensy Portrait of Fr. Franek ^ 515.
DomenichinOy Landseape ; 505. CarcU da dgoli^ St. Francis \ 765. SwantveU^
Landscape; *570. P. Veronese ^ Marriage of St. Catharine; 728. J/oneAeron,
Landscape; *747. Rubens^ Christ crucified; 746. Roghmany Landscape; 537.
G. PovMtn, Landscape ; 697. ffondecoetevy Birds. — 629. Jog. deSarabUty Yirf^n
and Child; 626. JouankSy St. Francis de Borgia; 632. Zurbarany St. Agatha;
iSb.Fabrey fonnderof theMu8ee(seep. 373), Portrait of the artist; 149. Rieti
or Rieeiy Adoration of the Shepherds; 631. Zurbarany The aneel Gabriel;
488. Ann. Carrtieciy Pieta; 54(B. OuercinOy Daughter of Herodias. —716.
Van der Meuleny Horseman at a farm; 753 (to the right of the door),
/. van Rupsdaety Waterfall; 663. P. Campcmoy Descent from the Cross;
674, 673, 675. Dietrich y Landscapes, Crown of Thorns; 734. A» van Osiade^
Lute-player; 683. Van Dyeky Madonna and Child; 582. Rouelliy St. Anthony ;
638. Berehem , Landscape ; 509. Dan. da VoUerrOy Beheading of John the
Baptist; ^577. Raphael (?), Portrait of a voung man, *the gem of the
Fabre Oallerv* ; 557. Locatetliy Landscape ; '86. Salvator Rotay Landscape ;
579. Fabrey Copy of Raphael*s Madonna della Sedia; 480. After Michael
AngeUfy Last Judgment, copy of 1570, previous to the additions made to
the original by Dan. da Volterra; 578. After Raphaely St. Michael; 549, 547.
OuidOy St. Agatha, St. Peter ; 526, 534. Oatpard Povniny Landscapes ; 510.
0. Dolci, The Virgin with the lily; 398. Sasso/erratOy Madonna; 508. Lor. di
Oredi (?), Holy Family; 511. Dolci f?), The Saviour; 564. Moroniy Portrait
of Aleoni, the Venetian general. — The glass-cases contain enamels, ivory
carvings, cameos, agates, Chinese chessmen, porcelain, and other fine
objects of small size.
Ehd Boom. To the left, 719. Mierii the Elder , Oirl stringing beads ;
734. Adr. van Ostadey Tavern-interior; 222. Oreuxey Mornine-prayer. —796.
Adr. van der Werffy Susannah at the bath; 681. K. du Jardiny Tavern;
815. K. Bodmery Forest-scene; 236. Oreutey Young jrirl; 780. Tenters the
roungery Tabagie, or the Man with the white hat; o99. Huytmamt Land-
scape; 761. Steeny The traveller's rest; 224. Oreutey Young girl with clasped
hands; 800. PhiX. WouvermoMy Small sandy beach; 696. MondkUy Boar-hunt;
678. Ger. DaUy The mouse-trap ; 323. Greutey The little mathematician ; 781.
Teniers the Younger y Tabagie, or the Man with the stone pitcher ; 325. Oreutey
Young girl with a basket; 692. Van Dycky Madonna and Child; 741. P.
Pottery Cows ; 648. Van Bloemeny 662. Bothy Landscapes; 755. Ryckaert, Tooth-
exfcraetor; *666. Cuppy Bank of the Meuse; no numoer, Flemish School of the
leth eent.y Visitation ; 807. WynantSy Landscape ; 656. Brouwer , The Alche-
mist; 714. Metsuy Dutch fishmonger; 779. TenierSy Smoker; 227. Oreute^
Litfie girl; 802. PMI. W&uMrman. Horse -fair with the kicking horse; 754.
J. van Ruysdaely Forest-scene ; 700. HuysmanSy Landscape ; 803. Wouvermany
Troops on the march; 677. Dietrich y 786. Van Ooyeny 791. A. van de Veldey
Landscapes; 568. Panniniy Monuments of aneient Rome (1733); 748. RubenSy
Landscape with Roman ruins; 462. ReynoldSy The Infant Samuel; *771.
Teniers the Younger y Village-fair; *221. Oreutey 'Gateau des Bois'; 428. /.
Vemety Sea-piece; 792. n. van de Veldey The little fleet; 743. Pynacker,
Landscape; wi. Phil. Wouvermany Stirrup-cup; 776. TenierSy Open-air con-
cert; •762. Jan Steeny Dutch repast; •769. Teniers the Younger. The Great
Chateau, landscape with portraits of the painter's family; 753. Jacob van
Ruysdaely 639. .fiercAem, Landscapes ; 712. Maasy Portrait of a woman; 637.
Berehem y Landscape; 715. MetsUy The Scribe; 692. School of MemXing (?),
Five scenes from the lives of Christ and the Ifadonna; 706. KnauSy Scene
in a tavern.
AD^oimiio Boom : DratoingSy bearing the names of the artists, and a
few small BronteSy etc. Then Tbrbe Cabiubts with the rest of the BronteSy
some anti<lue Vases y EngravingSy additional Drawings y a marble statue
bv BarioUni (Venus reclining), various works , a bust , and some relics
of Cabanei of Montpellier, the model of Houdon's statue of Voltaire, etc.
We now find ourselves once more in the entrance-hall.
Thb Room to thb. lbpt op tbbEbtkaboe contains unimnortant paint-
ings of the French School, including several by Feibre (p. 272).
Baedeker. Southern France. 4th Edit. 18
274 III, Rfmte 41. MONTP£LLIBR.
Uppsb GAI.LBRT or OtUerie Bruyas, To the right : 370. Rigaud, Por-
trAii of Fontenelle ; 246. Ingres^ Stratoniee ; 261. LargiUiire^ Portrait of
the artist \ 846. N. Patutin^ Portrait of. Cardinal J. Rospigliosi. Cabanel,
44. Nymph surprized by a satyr; no number. Venus. 32. B<mrdony Por-
trait of a Spaniard; *32. Brcucauaty Bull; 340. N. Poussin^ Baptism of
Christ; 49. Chardin, Portrait; 215. Olaizty Blood of Venus; 339. Poussin,
Death of St. Cecilia; 218. Qramet^ Montaigne visiting Tasso in prison;
Oreute, 228. Paralytic, 230. Child's head, 231. Desire, 229. The little
. sluggard; no number, E. Friant^ Boys wrestUng; 31. Brcuctusat^ Cows
grazing; 135. DutiUeuXy Sea-piece; 372. Robert- Fleury, The toilet; 214.
Olaitey 367. Ricard^ Portraits of Bruyas, a benefactor of the Hus^e;
^ 381. A.Sohegrery A philosopher; 211. Glaizey His own portrait; 196. O^rard,
Pasta as a Muse ; Courbety 73. Portrait of Bruyas, 69. Portrait of the artist,
61. Spinning girl asleep, 63. The meeting (Bruyas and the artist), 62. Sol-
itude , Studies of heads ; 132. O. Dori^ Evening on the Bhine ; 24. Bourdon,
Portrait. — Delacroix y 100. Michael Angelo in his studio, 104. Daniel in
the den of lions, 99. Charge of Arab horsemen, 1CK3. Mulatto, 103. Algerian
women, 106. Portrait of Bruyas; 66. Courbety Bathers; 417. TVoyon, Cattle;
375. J%iod. Rotttseauy The pond; 55. Cogniet, Woman and child (heads). —
183. /'romeiKm, Arab tents; 57-59. Coroty Landscapes; 391. Tas$aerty Heaven
and Hell; Al Cabanely 43. Portrait of the artist, 42. Velleda; 133. G. Dori,
Becolleetion of the Alps ; 249. Bug. Jsdbetfj Sea-piece ; Fabre, 140. Portrait
of Canova, 141. Death of Abel; Jos. Vernei^ 427. Tempest, 426. Landscape;
34. Cabanely Phaedra; 94. David, Hector; 438. Vincent y St. Jerome; David y
92, 93. Portraits; 237. Hennery Good Samaritan; 217. Glaizey Mocking of
Christy 371. H. Roberty Landscape. — In the middle : 860. Gumeryy Faun
playing with a kid (bronze).
In the same building is the Municipal Library (100,000 vols,
and 10^000 engravings), open to the public daily, except Thurs. and
holidays, 1-5 and 7.30-9.30; in June, July, and Aug. 1-6 only.
The Esplanade (P1.D,3,4), a handsome promenade, 550 yds.
long, commands an attractfye viev7 from its N. end. Military band
on Tuesday and Thursday. Fairs on the second Mon. after Easter
and Nov. 2nd. — To the E. are the Champ de Mara and the Citadd,
the latter constructed originally for the confinement of Protestants;
to the S. is the Palava^ Station (see below).
To the S. is the Place de la Com:6dib (PL C,D,4), embellished
with the attractive Fontaine des Trois Ordces , by Antoine (1776).
In the square is the Theatre, The Rue Maguelone leads hence to
the principal station.
From Moktpbllibr to Palavas, 71/2 M., railway in ^ min. (fares
1 fr., 60 c. ; no 3rd class). The trains start from a special station (PI. D,4).
— Falavas (Hdtel Poujol; Grand- H6tel; Casino) is a favourite sea-bathing-
resort, with a fine sandy beach at the mouth of the canalised Li'-
Whole families are to be seen bathing here together, in Southern fashion,
using large umbrellas in place of bathing-boxes. — About 2Va ^- to the
S.W., on a strip o{ land between the sea and the Arnel Lagoon, stood
the town of Kaguelone, founded, it is said, by Phocaeans and long a
prosperous seaport. The Saracens having seized it, Charles Martel re-
captured and destroyed it in 737. It rose again, however, from its niinB,
but Louis XIII. razed it to the ground in 16^, with the exception of its
cathedral, a curious building in the Romanesque and Gothic styles, re-
cently [restored (keeper adjoining). It contains some interesting tombs of
the 16th cent., some architectural fragments of the middle ages, and a
few Roman antiquities. The view from the roof is very fine.
From Moktpbllibr to Lb Vioan (Aigoual), bHU M., railway in 31/4"
3Va brs. (fares 10 fr. 30, 6 fr. 96, 4 fr. 56 c). - Sl/a M. Zw Matts (p. 3©)'
CETTE. ///, R<mt6 41. 275
71/2 H* Cattrif$t with a eh&teau, the park of which is watered by an
aqueduct 4. M. long: 16 K. BoUseron^ aUo with a chateau. At (I71/2 M.)
Sommikres w« join the line from Ntmes to Le Vigan (see p. 419).
From Momtpbllibb to Lod^vb viA Paulbav, 43 M., railway in 31/4-
3S/4 brs. Cfares 7 fr. 86, 5 fr. 30, S fr. 45 c). The trains start from the
Oare de Paris-Lyon-M^diterran^e. — 12 Itf. Montbatin^ the junction of lines
to B^ziers via Pezenas and to Gette (see p. 376). — 35 K. Paulhan (buffet)
IB the junction of lines to Vias and Bexiers via Pezenas and to Gastres
and Montauban via Bedarieuz (see p. 109). — 33 M . 01eniiont-rH4ra«lt,
and excursion thence to Mourkze^ see p. 109. — 35 M. Rabieux (p. 110).
— 43 M. LodHe^ see p. 110.
Fboh Moktpblubr to LoDibvB VIA Akiane Avt> Rabibux, 37 M., rail-
way in 3 fars. (fares 5 fr. 35, 3 fr. 35 c, 3 fr.). The single daily train
starts from the eare de Rahieux (p. 369). — About 8 M. to the W. of (5 K.)
St. Oeorges-cT Orques lies MurvM-lh-MontptlUer^ with some remains of the
w^alls of the Roman Altimurium. — 30 M. Aniane (H6i. Blaquihren)^ a
little town that sprang up round an abbey founded in 780 by 8t. Behoil-
d*Aniane and rebuilt in the 18th century. About 41/2 M. to the N. is St.
Oailhem-le-O^sert (/m»), a village with an interesting Romano- Byzantine
ehnreh and some remains of an old abbey, two old castles, and fortifica-
tions. It is surrounded bjr rocks and lies near the Gorges de VSirauli,
— At (39 K.) Babi€ux we join the line described above.
37 M. Lodftve (Hdt. du Nord; H6i. du Commerce)^ the Luteva of the
ancients, is a town of 8416 inhab.^ in a picturesque situation. It was
long governed by its bishops, who enjoyed the right of coining down to
1789. It now manufactures army-cloth. The Cathedral dates from the
13tli and 16th centuries.
Beyond MontpelUer we cross the Mosson. — 36 M. VUleneuve-
les" Magudone, — 44 M. Frontignan (3900 iiihah.), celebrated for
its muscatel wines, is situated on the banks of the Etang d'Ingril,
which the railroad crosses by a causeway V4 ^* long. Farther on
we skirt the shore of the Mediterranean^ leaving the Etang de Thau
(p. 105) to the right.
48Vf M. Cette {Buffet; ^Orand-Hotel, Quai de Bosc 17, R. 3-5,
d^j. 3^/t,I>AfT. ; Barrillon.Qnaii deBosc 10,R.2V2,d^j.3, D.3Vf fr.,
unpretending; British vice-consul, Mr. Oustave Espitalier; V. S.
consular agent, Mr. L, S. Nahmens; tramway at the station, 15 c),
an ancient town of 33,065 inhab. , situated on Mont St. Clair
(590 ft. ; the Mons Setius of antiquity) between the Etang de Thau
and the Mediterranean, at the junction of the Lyons and Midi rail-
ways. Its name, derived from the Greek 'Setion', carries its origin
back to remote times , but its importance dates only from the end
of the 17th cent., when its port was established under the direction
of Biquet, the constructor of the Canal du Midi (p. 76), which
connects the basins of the Mediterranean and the Atlantic.
Cette contains little of interest for the tourist, although the town
has recently been much improved. The Harbour has three basins,
connected by canals with the Etang de Thau, to which the Canal du
Midi extends , and with the railway-station which lies between the
£tang and a lateral canal. The Avenue Victor Hugo , beyond this
^g^jxal traverses the new quarter of the town, which is intersected
18*
276 ///. Route 4h CETTE.
by a transverse canal. The annual moyement of the trade amounts
to about 2^2 million tons. The old town lies to the right, beyond
the Canal de Cette, which is spanned by four bridges. The Rue
de TEsplanade, opposite the second bridge , ascends to the Square
du Chdteau-d'Eau, on the hillside. To reach the {^U^t.) top of
the hiU (yiew) we pass to the left of the square, or we may foUow
the Rue de rHdtel-de-Yille , opposite the bridge next the harbour.
The small Mtia^e Municipal, in the square skirted by the Ayenue
V ictor Hugo , near the station , is open to the public on Sun. and
Thurs. (11-4) and to strangers also on other days except Monday.
Cette has a Zoological Station connected with th« University of
Montpelller.
A braneh-line rung from Cette to (81/2 M.) Bakwite-le-Vieux tind (8 M.)
Montbatin (pp. 110,376). — Balarae-le-Vieux is about 11/4 M. from Bftlarae-
les-Bains, at the N.E. extremity of the Etang de Thau, with a bath>estab-
lishment (hotel). The mineral waters are especially used in cases of
paralysis, chronic rheumatism, and scrofula. — A steamer also plies on
the Etang de Thau, as far as Mize (p. 106). It starts four times daily from
the Quai de la Bordigue , near the bridge next the station, and reaches
Balaruc in 1/2 J^'* ('are 50 c. \ return-fare 76 c).
From Cette to Touloutey see B. 14.
MMltfl
f^mmmmmm
IV. THE FRENCH ALPS.
42. From Paris to Chamonix 281
a. By the Direct Route 281
From Bourg to Lyons; to Geae.va vi& Nantua. The
Monts d'Ain, 283. — From Virieu to Pressins. The
Perte da Rhone, 384. — The Saleve, 385. — The Kdle.
Pointe d*Andey. From Gluses to Taningea. Pointe
Perc^e, 286. — Pointe d'Arreu. Aiguille de Varens.
St. Gervaifl-les-Bains and St. Oervais-le- Village. Col
de la Forelaz. From Le Fayet to Sixt. Gorges de la
Diosaz, 287.
b. Vl& Geneva 288
43. From Annemasse to Martigny via Evian .... 288
The Voirons. From Thonon to St. Jeoire; to Samoens
(Valley of the Dranee ), 389. — From Thonon to Abon^
dance. The Blanchard. Dent d^Oehe, 390. — Granunont.
Gornettes de Bise. Val d'lUiez. From Champ^ry to
Morzine or to Samoens \ to Sixt over the Col de Sa-
gerou, 391.
44. From Annemasse to Chamonix via Sixt, the Col
d'Anterne, and the Col da Br^vent 292
The Pralaire, 393. — Pointe des Brasses. Pointe de Mar-
eelly. From Samoens to Thonon. Valine du Fer a CbeTal.
Mont Ruan. The Avaudrue. Pic de Tanneverge, 393. —
Pointe Pelouse. From Sixt to Chamonix over the Buet, 394.
45. Chamonix and its Environs 294
Jardin. Aiguille Verte. Aig. du Dru. Aig. de Blaiti^re.
Aig. des Charmoz, 397. — Aig. de la Tour. Pierre k VE-
chelle. Aig. du Midi. Plan de T Aiguille. Mont Blanc, 399.
— From Chamonix to Courmayeur over the Col du Geant,
the Col de Triolet, ete.^ 300, 301.
46. From Chamonix to Courmayeur viA the Col du Bon-
homme and Col de la Seigne. Tour of Mont Blanc 301
Col de Tricot, jiont Joly. Col du Mont Tondu and Col
de Tr^latete, 302. — From Les Chapieux to Bourg-St-
Maurice, 303. —Environs of the Col de la Seigne, 304. —
Dolonne. Col de Checouri. Mont de laSaxe. Crammont.
Grandes Jorasses. Mont Frety. From Courmayeur to
Chamonix over the Col du Geant: to Bourg-St-Maurice
by the Little St. Bernard, 305, 306.
47. From Chamonix to the Valais 306
a. From Chamonix to Martigny by the Tete- Noire 306
Glacier d^Argentiere. Col des Grands-Montets. Col
Dolent. Col du Chardonnet. Col d*Argentiere, 30/.
— Col du Tonr. GouflFre de la Tete-Koire, 308.
b. From Chamonix to Vernayaz via Finhaut and
Salvan .309
Bxearsions from Finhaut. Col de la Gueula, 309. —
Gorges du Dalley. Dent du Midi, 310.
c. From Martigny to Chamonix vi& the Col de Balme 310
18,19
!278
THE FRfiNCfi AL1>S.
48 . From Macon (Paris) to Modane (Turin) 311
EnvirooB of Cbamb^rjr, 313. — St. Jean-d'Arves, 314. —
Mont Cenis Tunnel. Excursions from Modane: Dent
Parraeh^e \ Roche Ghevri^re \ Pointe de TEchelle ; Pointe
R^nod \ Aiguille de Polset ; Mont Thabor, 315.
49. Aix-les-Bains and its Environs 316
Marlioz \ Lac du Bourget ; Abbey of Hauteeombe ; Gk)rges
du Sierros; La Gbambotte; Col de Oessens; Le Bour-
get; Bourdeau, 318. — Dent du Ghat. Revard. Pont de
TAbime, etc., 319. — From Aix-les-Bains to Annecy
and Geneva. Val du Fier. La Gaille, 330.
50. Annecy and its Environs 321
Excursions from Annecy : Lake of Annecy ; Menthon ;
Talloires; Semnoz*, Parmelan; Toumette, 333-334. -
From Annecv to Albertville via Faverges; to Ghamonix
via St. Oervais, 334, 335. — From Anneey to Th6nes
and the Aravis Ghain, 335. — From Thdnes to Favergea \
to Grand Bornand; to Le Fayet, 336.
51. From Chamb^ry to Albertville and Moutiers (Taren-
taise) 327
Environs of Albertville. From Albertville to Ghamonix
via Ugines; to Beaufort and to St. Gervais vi& the Gol
Joly ; to Les Ghapieux, 337, 338. — From Notre-Dame-de-
Brian^on to La Chambre, %t8. — Excursions from Mod-
tiers : Mont Jovet \ Pointe de Greve-TSte ; Gheval Noir ;
Perron d£s Encombres, 339, 330.
52. The Upper Valley of the Isere and its Mountains . 330
I. From Moutiers to Tignes and to Val-d'Isere, vii
Bourg-St-Maurice 330
From Aime to Beaufort; to the Mont Jovet, 330. —
Peisey. Mont Pourri. Bonneval - les - Bains. From
Ste. Foy to Valgrisanche , 331. — T8te du Rutor.
Pointe d*Areheboc, 333.
II. Excursions from Tignes and from Val-d'Isere . 382
a. From Tignes 332
Grande-Sa«8iere,332. — To Notre-Dame-de-Rhemes
over the Gol de la Goletta. To Bozel over the Gol
du Palet, 333. — Grand -Bee de Pralognan.
Sommet de Belle -Cote. To Peisey over the Col
de la Tourne or the Gol du Palet, 334.
b. From Val-d'Isere 334
To the Lac de Tignes, 334. — Grande Sassiere.
Rochers de Genepy. Pointe de la Sana. Tsante-
leina. Pointe de Bazel. Pointe de Galabre.
Pointe de la Galise;, 335. — Gime d^Oin and
Grande Aiguille Rousse. To Bonneval over the
Gol d^lseran. To Entre-deux-Eaux over the Gol
de la Leisse or Col de la Roeheure, 886. — To
Geresole over the Gol de la Galise, 387.
53. From Moutiers to Brides-les-Bains and to Pralognan 337
Mont Jovet. Vallee des Allues, 337. — Croix du Vallon.
Excursions from Bozel, 388. — Exeursiona from Pra-
lognan : Petit Mont Blanc. Roohen de Villeneuve. Rocber
dePlassas. Dent Portetta. Grand-Marchet. ToTermignon
vi& the Gol de la Vanoise, 339. - Pointe du Dard. Pointe
THte I^RBNCH ALPS.
279
' de la Reehasse. Pointe de Creux-Noir. Point* du Valla-i
net. Folate de la Gli^re^ 340. ~~ Grande-Casse. Orande-
Motte. Dome de Chasseforet, 341. — Aiguille de Polset.
To Modane over the Col de Ghaviere, 342.
54. The Upper Valley of the Arc and its Mountains . 343
Aiguille de Scolette. Ddme de TArpont, 348. — Jfont
Cenis Road. Grand-Roc-Noir. Pointe de Vallonet, 344.
— Eleursions from Bessans: Croix de Don Jean-Mauriee.
Aiguille de Mean-ltfartia. Pointes du Chatelard. Pointe
de Charhonel. Pointe d^Albaron. Pointe du Grand-Fond,
345. — Roehe-Helon. From Bessans to Lanzo. Col de
Colleriu. Col d^Arn^s. Col de TAutaret. Pointe des Arses.
Aiguille Pers, 346. — Pelaoa-Blane. Hoe de Parels. Uu-
linet. Levanna. From Bonneval to Ceresole ovev the
Col du Carro; to Lanzo over the Col de Girard or the
Col de S^a, 347. ....
55. From Lyons to Grenoble (Marseilles) 348
From St. Andr£-le-Gaz to Chamb^ry. From St. Bdron to
St. Genix-d'Aoste; to St. Laurent-du-Pont , 348, 349. —
Lac de Paladru, 3to. — From Voreppe to the Convent of
Chalais. Grande- Aiguille, 350. — Mont Rachais. The Jala.
St. Eynerd, 364. — From Grenoble to Valence, 355.
56. Excursions from Grfenoble . . 355
L Short Excursions 355
Sassenage and the Gorges of the Furon, 355. — Chateau
de Beauregard. Tour Sans-Venin. The Moueherotte.
The Trois Pneelles, etc., 356.
II. Uriage and its Environs 356
Walks and Excursions : Chateau d*Uriage ; Chartreuse
de Premol •, Cascade de rOursiere ^ Croix de Cham-
rousse*, Croix de Belledotne, 367.
III. "the Q^rande Chartreuse 358
Grand-Som. Pinea. Charmant-Som. Chameehaude,
360.
IV. To the Gorges d'Engins, Gorges de la Bourne, and
Gorges de la Vernaison. The Ooulets .... 361
Pic St. Michel. Moucherolle, 361.
V. From Grenoble to Gap via La Mure ..... 362
From La Motte-d'Aveillans to Laffrey, 362. — From
La Mure to Vlzille; to Le Bourg d'Oisansi to La
Chapelle-en-Valjouffrey, 362, 363. — "From Corps to
Kotre-Dame-de-Salette \ to La Chapel le-en-Valgau-
demar, 363. — Clot-en-Valgaudemar. St. Bonnet, 364.
57. From Grenoble to Ohamb^ry. AUevard and its En-
virons . . 364
From Revel to the Croix de Belledonne, 364. — Theys.
Ghranier, 365. — Excursions from AUevard : Chartreuse de
St. Hugon. Le Curtillard. Sept-Laux. Puy-Gris. Grand-
Charnier. Grand-Clocher or Pic du Frene. Grand-Cu-
eheron or Gi'ands-Moulins, S66-36S.
58. From Grenoble to Briaii^on 368
a. By Road 368
Taillefer, 368. — Excursions from Le Freney, 369.
280
THE FRBNCH ALPS.
a.
b.
b. By Railway 371
Grand- Veymont. Mont Aienille. From Clelles to La
Mure. Orand'Ferrand, 373. — Pic de Bure. Tallard.
From Gap to Ghampol^on and to Orei^reg. Vieux-
Ghaillol, 873. — From Pruni^res to Bareelonnette.
From Bareelonnette to Alios; to St.Paul-Bur-Ubayc
andMaljaaset; to Larehe, 374. — From Embnin to
Condamine-Gh&telM>d. Valley of Freissini^res. From
L*Argenti&re-la-Bess^e to VallOuise. 375. — Pie de
Prorel. From Brian^on to Abri^s. Col d^Izoard, 376.
— Pie de Roehebrune. From Brianfon to Oulx (Mont
Cenis line). From Brian^^on to Bardonneecbia., 377.
59. The Pelvoux Range and its Environs 377
Excursions from Bourg-d'Oisans^ Oz, and Alle-
mont 378
Grandes-Rousses. Pies de Belledonne, 379. — Grande-
Lanee d*Allemont. To St. Cbristophe and La Be-
rarde. Valley of the V^n^on. Rochail. Lae de
Lauvitel. From Venose to Le Freney over the Ool
de I'Alpe, 380. — Col de la Muzelle, 381.
Excursions from 8t. Cbristophe and La B^rarde 382
L From St. Cbristophe to the Glaeier de Mont-de-
Lans and the Col de la Lauze vii the Lae Koir,
383. — Aiguille du Plat. Roehe de la Muzelle. TSte
de Lauranoure. Bee du Canard. Aiguille dea Arias.
Tete de TOurs. Pointe Lemereier. Pointe Jeanne.
TSte des Fetoules. Tete de TEtret, 383. — Aiguille
and Pie d*Olau. Pie de Turbat. To La Chapelle-en-
Valgaudemar vi& the Col des Sellettes. To Le Clot-
en-Valgaudemar over the Col de la Muande. 384.
II. From La Berarde to the Tete de la Maye. Tete du
Graou. Tete du Rouget, 384. - The Plaret. Tete de
la Gandoli^re. The Rateau. The Meije, 385. -' Pav^.
Tete de Gharriere. Les Serins, 386. — Fifre. Pie
Coolidge. To Villard-d^Arene and La Grave ^ by
the Brfehe de la Meije, the Ools du Pav^, des Cha-
mois , des Aigles , du Clot-des-Cavales, and de la
Grande-Ruine, the Briehe Giraud-L^zin, and the
Col de la Casse - Deserte , 387, 388. — Grande-
Aiguille. Boeber de TEncoula. Cime de Cloehfttel.
To Le Clot-en- Valgaudemar by the Col des Rouies
(aseent of the Rouies), by the Col da Chardon,
or the Col du Says. Tete de Cheret, 388.,— Pies
du Says. Vaxivier. Les Bans. To Ailefroide via
the Cols de la Temple, de la Goste-Rouge, de TAile-
froide, du Sel($, 389, 390.
Excursions from Vallouise and Ailefroide . . 390
c.
I. From Vallouise de la Pointe de TAigli^re. Crete des
BoBufs-Rouges. From Vallouise to the Valgaudemar.
Col du Sellar. Pie Bonvoisin. Pie des Aupillous.
Cols du Loup and du Sirae, 390.
II. From Ailefroide to the Tete de la Draye. Mont Pel-
voux , 391. — Pie Sans Nom. Sommet de TAile-
froide. To La Berarde by the Col de la Temple,
the Col des Berins, ete.. 393. — Les ^rins. Pie
de Neige Cordier,
THE FRENCH ALPS.
281
d. Excursions from La Grave and Villard-d'Arene 393
Plateau de Paris, 398. — To St. Ohristophe over the
Gol de la Lanse. Bee de THomme. Ghalet-H6tel
de TAlpe. Pic de Neige du Lautaret. Pie Gas-
pard. Grande-Ruine. Roehe M^ane, d94. — Heije.
To La Berarde over the Breelie de laMeije, or
the Col du Glot-dea-Cavales. To Ailefroide over
the Col Emile Pic, or over the Col du Glacier-
Blanc. Aiguille du Gol^on, 395. — Aiguilles d'Ar-
ves. To St. Jean-d'Alnres via the Col de Tlnfernet,
the Col de Martignare, and the Col Lombard, 396.
e. Excursions from Le Lautaret 396
Pyramide du Lauriehard. Pic de Corabeynot, 396.
— Roehe du Grand-Galibier. La Part. To St. Mi-
chel-de-ifaurienne vi& the Galibier, 397
f. Excursions from Le Mon6tier ...... 397
To the Chalet -Hotel de TAlpe over the Col d'Arsine,
397. — Pie des Pres-les-Fonds. Lac de TEychauda.
Pic des Agneaux. To Vallouise over the Col de
TEychauda. To Valloire over the Col de la Pon-
sonniere. To Nevache over the Col deBuff^re,
60. Valine du Guil. Queyras. Monte Viso . . . . .399
a. From Mont-Dauphin-Guillestre to Abries . . 399
From Guillestre to St. Paul- sur-Ubaye ; to Maljiiaset.
Font Sanete. From La Maison-du-Roi to Malj asset,
399. — Col Fromage. Col Agnel. Castel - Delflno.
Pain de Sucre. Pie Asti. Grande - Aiguillette, 400.
— TSte de Pelvas. Bric-Bouchet. Bric-Froid, 401.
b. From Abries to the Monte Viso 401
Col de la Croix. Boche-Taillante. Pic Traverse. Gra-
nero. Meidassa. Crissolo, 401. — Monte Viso. Cima
di Losetta, 403.
61. From Grenoble to Digne and to Puget Th^niers . . 402
I. From Grenoble to Digne. Basses Alpes . . . 402
Mont de la Bauine. Signal de Lure, 402. — From
Digne to Barcelonnette, 403.
II. From Digne to Puget-Th^niers (Nice) .... 404
From Barreme to Castellane. From St. Aadre-de-
M^ouilles. to Colmars, 404.
42. From Paris to Chamonix.
a. By the Direct Bonte.
4431/2 M- in 151/2-31 bra. (fares S2fr.25c., 54 fr. 65, d6fr.35e.). Re-
turn-tickets, available for a fortnight, are issued at reduced rates in the
season. Sleeping-cars (to Geneva) by the evening-expresses in summer;
dining^ars between Macon and Geneva. — The trains start from the Gare
de Ifjon at Paris. — By this route the Swiss custom-house is avoided.
Paris, see Baedeker's Paris. — To (273Va M.) M&oon, see p. 196.
Here our line diverges from the line to Lyons (R. 30 a) and crosses
the Saonc. — Beyond (287 M.) Mezeriat the Jura Mountains
CQwe into view.
082 IV. Boute 42. BOURO- From Paris
\ 297 M. Bonrg (Buffet; *Hdtel de France, Place Carriat; Hot. de
\v Europe, Place de laGrenette, K, 4Vt-3| B. 1, d^j. 3, D. 3V2 fr->
omn. 60 c- 1 fr. ; Hot. de la Paix, at the station, R. 1 Vi'^Vs ^r*)? *
town of 18,500 inhab., once the capital of the Bresse and now the
chief town of the department of the Ain.
The Rue Alphonse Baudin leads from the station towards the
town, but the direct route from the station to the (V4 hr.) Church of
Brou (adm. 15 c.; closed 11.30 to 1) is straight on via the Rue
Voltaire and Boul. Victor Hugo, and then to the right by the
Boulevard de Brou.
The *Chubch of B&ou, celebrated in Matthew Arnold's poem,
the principal object of interest in the town, was built in 1511-36 by
Margaret of Austria, wife of Pbilibert II., le Beau, Duke of Savoy, in
fulfilment of a vow made by Margaret of Bourbon, her mother-in-law.
The Portal is remarkable for its profusion of ornament, of great deli-
cacy but not in the best taste.
The inferior is distinguished by a graceful simplicity, and moreoyer
contains some masterpieces of carving and sculpture. Among these are
'a very rich but somewhat heavy Rood Loft; magniOsent Gothic *8tails
with canopies; and, above all, in the choir, the splendid *7V>m6« of the
; above-mentioned prince and princesses, executed by Thomas and Conrad
Meyt, partly from designs of Michel Colombe and Perr^al. The tomb in
the middle, is that of Pbilibert (d. 1604), with two recumbent statues of
- the prince, one of which represents him living , the other dead, besides
genii, twelve richly ornamented pillars, and statuettes of sibyls. To the
right is the elaborate tomb of Margaret of Bourbon (d. 1483), with Renii,
saints, and mourners ; to the left that of Margaret of Austria (d. I&SO),
which vies with that of her husband. It also has two statues and Is sur-
mounted by a rich canopy ; on the cornice, as well as in various parts of
' the chureh (e. g. over the large holy-water basin at the entrance)., is in-
scribed the motto of the Austrian princess: ^Fortune infortune fort une\
In the Chapel of the Virgin, at the side, is a large *Iteredo$y of the same
date, with »lto-reliefs representing seenes from the life ef the Virgin.
' The alabaster statues at the sides represent St. Philip and St. Andrew.
The choir contains a modern marble altar, with fifteen gilded bronze
statues. Some of the ancient stained-glass windows of the church are inter-
esting. The ftatue of St. Vincent de Paul, in the nave, is by Cabuehet.
In front (tf the portal, on the ground , is traced an oval sun-dial , on
. which, by placing himself over the letter of the current month, the
'▼isitor may see the hour marked by his shadow.
The adjacent building, originally a convent, is now a seminary.
The Rue des Halles , diverging on the right from the Boul. de
Brou, leads to the Oktjirchof Notrt^^Dame, a Gothic edifice of 1505-45,
with a Renaissance portal. The 16th cent, stalls, the old stained
glass in the 3rd chapel on the left, behind the high-altar, and the
fine modern windows of the choir are its most interesting features.
— The Hotel de Ville, in the centre of the town, contains a small
Mu»ee (open Sun., 2-4), entered from the Rue Biehat It com-
prises some pictures of the Dutch School , a Ribera , a triptych
(St. Jerome) by Wohlgemuth from the Church of Brou, French pic-
tures, antique furniture, etc. — Bourg contains statues of Edgard
Quinet (1803-75). by Millet, Biehat <1771-1802), the eminentsur-
geon, by David d'Augers, and OeneralJoubert (1769-99), by Aiib^.
to Chcanonix. AMBl^RIEU. IV. RoiUe 42. 283
Braneh-railway to Besanfon and Mouehardy see Bcudeker^s Northern France ;
to Ckalim-$ur'JSa4hM, see p. 196.
Fbom Bouro to Ltons^ 36V3M., railway in 3-31/4 hrs. (fares 6 fr. 60,
4 fr. 45, 3 fr. 90 c.). — This railway, known as .the Liffne de la Domfoet^
traverses the marshy plateau of that name. — 13V2 ^- Marlieuxy whence
a branch -line diverges to the (TVs V-) little town of Chi&tttUm-mr-Ohal-
aronne . — 36V2 M. Lyons (Ghare de La Groix-Bousse, see p. 327).
Fbom Bouro to Geheva via Kavtua, 61 M., in 31/2 hrs. This pictur-
esque route is 30 M. shorter than the main route via Culoz, but is not taken
by the express-trains from Bourg to Bellegarde. Best views on the left.
— After passing close to the Church of Brou (p. 382), the line ascends a
considerable graidieni. 14 M. Simcmdrt-sur-Suran, Immediately after thread-
ing a tunnel a mile long, we reach the bold * Viaduct of Ctte^ over the Gorge
of the Aim. — Beyond (BSVs M.) Ciee-Bolozon the line runs at a great height
above the gorge of the Ain. We leave the river and pass through 3 tunnels,
the last of which is IV4 ^- long (5 min.). — 33V2 M- ^^ Oluae, practically
a suburb of Nantua, and on the Jjake of Nantua (see below). A picturesque
railway runs hence in IVi-Ai/a hr., via (8 M. ) Oyonnat (Hot. du Com-
merce), to (39 M.) St. Claude (Ecu de France)^ a town with 10,146 inhab.,
the seat of a bishop, picturesquely situated at the confluence of the
Bienne and the Tacon. It originated in - an ancient and powerful abbey,
to which St. Claude, Bishop of Besan^on, retired in the 13th century. As
an industrial centre St. Claude is noted for the manufacture of snuff*
boxes, pipes, and toys, and for gem -cutting. The (kUhedral of St. Peter^
the old abbev-church (14-19th cent.), contains fine choir-stalls of the second
half of the 15th century. Various interesting excursions may be taken in
the neigbbourhQod. — Beyond La GluAe we skirt, to the left, the pictur-
esque Late ofNamtua (I3/4 M. long, 560-750 yds. broad), the third m size
among the lakes of the French Jura.
25 M. Kantua (Hdtel de France, good), with 3033 inhab., lies at the S.E.
end of the lake, between steep mountains. The interesting old Church be-
longed to an abbey founded in the 7th cent. , and is remarkable for the
curious shape of the nave, which expands towards the top.
The Xonts d'Ain, culminating in the ^Signal de$ Monti d''Ain (4370 ft. ;
3hrs. ; view), are frequently visited from Nantua. Another excursion may
be made to the Lae de 8iian (see below) and the Lac Oenin (I51/2 M.). In-
teresting routes lead also from Nantuato(33 M.)Ci«J02(p. 38^, via the Val-
rojneff (^Vallis Bomanorum"), passing (16 H.) Hotonnet (inn) and (34 M.)
Champagne. Another route leads via (19 tf.) ffauteville (p. H^).
Beyond a funnel (650 yds. long), in which the line attains its summit
level (1935 ft. )> we eime]*ge on the banks of the Lac de Silan or Sylane
(about IV4 K- long And 370 yds. wide), on which are large ice - houses.
— About o50 yds. to the N. of the station of (301/2 M.) Charix-Laileyriai,
is the Piue-Vache Waterfall, over 80 ft. hiKh and especially fine in April
and May after heavy rains. — 36i/a H. ChAtfllbn-de-Xtehaille (1790 ft. ; H&iel
du Nord)^ a picturesquely situated little town , on a height to the right,
above the confluence of the Semine and the VeAeerine. — 40 M. Bellegarde ;
the station is above the one of the same name on the Lyons line (p. 384),
which is reached by a foot-bridge. Thence to (61 M.) Oeneva, see p. 988.
The main line, vii Amb^rieu and Culoz, continues in a S.E.
direction and joins the line from Lyons to Geneva. On the left we
see the Chorch of Brou and the Jura Mountains.
316 M. Amb6riea (Buffet; Hdtel du Commerce), a small in-
dustrial town, with 3540 inhab., is also on the line from Lyons to
Geneva (p. 241).
A branch-line^ for local traffic, runs hence to (11 M.) Montalieu and
thence to (33 M.) SablonnUret (see p. 340).
The route now. enters the Jura by the lovely Valley of the Alha-
rine, which contracts beyond (323 MO St. Bamhert-en-Bugey (4H0
284 IV. Route 42. BELLEGARDE. From PaH$
inhab.). — From (327 M.) Tenay (Hot, Syvot), an industrial place
with 4214 inhab., in a curve of the valley of the Albarine, a diligence
(2 fr.) plies to (8V2 M.) HautevUU (H5t. Roland) , a picturesquely
situated summer-resort. — We now quit the valley of the Albarine
and enter a solitary gorge. On th6 right is the Motard de Don
(4020 ft.). Beyoiid (33572 M.) Rossillon the train passes through a
tunnel, 620 yds. long, and reaches the Lake of Pugieu. — 340 M.
Virieu-le-Orand (H6t. Pellisson).
From Viribu to Pebssiks (St. Andre'du-Gaz)i 39 M., branch-railway in
18/4-3 hrs. — 9 M. Belley (B6UI Charles)^ a venerable and prettily situ-
ated town, with 6070 inhab., ie the seat of a bishopric. The Cathedral is
in the Gothic style of the 15th cent., but most of it is modern. — 33l/s M.
Aostey 11/4 M. to theS.W. of St. Genix (p. 240; diligence 30 c), on the site
of the Roman colony Augustum or Augusta. — 29 M. PresBifU (p. 348).
342 M. Artemare, The line skirts Mont Colomhier (6030 ft.)
to the left, a fine view-point, best ascended from Culoz (4V2 hrs.).
We then enter the Rhone Valley and obtain a good view of the Alps.
347 M. Culoz {Buffet; Hot. Folliet, at the station), at the base
of Mont Colombier , on the right bank of the Rhone. Railway to
Aix-les-Bains and Modane, see R. 48.
The railway to Chamonix and Geneva ascends the valley towards
the N., on the right bank of the Rhone. — 358V2 M. Seyttel (Hot.
du Commerce, on the left bank; de Geneve , on the right bank)
consists of two places of the same name, connected by a suspension-
bridge'; that on the left bank is in S^voy. The portcullis on the
bridge is lowered at night to prevent smuggling. — 361 V2 M. Pyri-
mont. We pass through a short tunnel and across a viaduct over
the V/zeronce. In front rises the Cr^do (see below). Three tun-
nels are traversed, the last two over ^/j M. long.
368 M. Bellegarde {Buffet; Hdt. des Touristes, near the station;
Poste; de la Gate; de France) y a town of 2494 inhab., on the frontier
near the confluence of the Rhone and Valserine, with the French
custom-house.
A natural curiosity, the Perte du Rhdne^ was formerly to be seen
here. This was a chasm in the limestone into which the river disappear-
ed when its waters were low (Nov. -Feb-) for a length of 100 paces.
Although' this attraction has now ceased to exist, owing to the blasting
away of [the rocks , this part of the valley is very picturesque and well
worth a^vioit. — We may also visit the VaUerine Viaduct (near the station),
mentioned below , and the Gorge , 85 ft. deep , which the river has hol-
lowed out of the limestone rock, forminf a ^P8rte\ or lubt«n«neatt pas-
sage, (more than 400 yds. in lengthy about IV2 K- from the viaduct.
The Or«do or Or St de la Qoutte (5275 ft. i fine view), to the II. E., may
be ascended in 4 hrs. from bellegarde, with a guide, vi& the PlaUau de
MentMire and the Chalet au Sae.
From B(QUegarde to Nantna and Bourg^ see p. 283. — Another line runs
to (23 M.) Qex (•Hot. du Commerce) and (30 M J Divonne (•H6t. de TBtab-
lissement \ Truite) ; see Baedeker^ » Switzerland.
Beyond Bellegarde we cross the imposing Valserine Viaduct,
275 yds. long and 170 ft. high, and traverse the Ttmnel du Cr/do
(2VsM.; 572iQin.), through the, mountain of that name, and the
Defile of the Ecluae, a deep and narrow depression between the ex-
to Chamoniz. AKNEMAS8B. IV: Rtmtt 42. 285
tremity of the Jura and the MonUigne de Vuciehe (3440 ft.) by which
the Rhone eseapes from Switzerland. The defile is commanded by
tbe F^t de VEcluae , situated on a crag (1385 ft.) to the left. Farther
on, beyond another tunnel, the view opens on the right. The line
to Geneva (p. 288) diverges to the left , while our line crosses the
Rhone, threads a tunnel of 300 yds., and skirts the frontier. —
375 M. Valleiry (on the right, the SaUvej see below); 379 M. Viry.
— From (382 M.) St. Jnlien-en-Gtoaevoit (Balcmeet) a steam-tram-
way plies to Geneva. About 1 M. to the S.E. are the picturesque
ruins of the Chdteau de Ternier. — 387 M. Bosaey -Veyrier.
AscBKT OP THB Sal^vb. An electric tramway runs Irom Yeprier (3/^ M.
to tlie N.) in Va br. to (SIC.) Monnetitr-Mairit (fare 95 c, there and back
11/2 ^r-)t where we join the line from Etrembiires (see below) to (Ihr.)
Lea Tr9ite-Arbre» (Care 3 fr. iX), return-fare 4 fr. 60 c). — Those who make
tb« aaeent on foot follow tbe Pa» de VBchtUe^ below the electric tram-
v^ay, and finally reach Monnetier (see below) by 101 steps cut in the rocks.
The line skirts the N. flank of the Saleve and reaches the bank
of the Arve, — 390 M. Etrembieres,
AscBMT OF THB SalAvb. From Etrembieres (steam-tramway to Anne-
masse and Geneva) an eleetric tramway ascends the Salive in about
1 hr. (fare 3 fr. 90, return-fare 4 fr. 50 e.), via J£onn0ti0r (see above). Bet-
ween Etrembiirea and Monnetier we pass Xornez i7S30 ft. ; B6t. BtauHte ;
Ecu de Savoie; English CJhurch), a charming summer-resort on the S. slope
of the Petlt-Salive. — Monnetier (2336 ft. \ *Hdt. de la Reeofmaiteanee ; *B6t.
d« Chdteau; *Trottet; Belvidh'*'^ d«« PlatatM^ is also frequented for summer-
quarters. The Petit-Salhe (79S0 ft.) may be ascended hence in Va br. (view).
From MonneHer - Mfairie (•H8t. Bellevue), where the Veyrier branch joins
ours (see above), the eleetric tramwayaseends the partly, wooded slope
of the mountain to Let Dreite^Arbret (3745 ft.; hotel), whence the top of
the *e«aiid-BaI«To (4380 ft.) is reached on foot in 90 min. The anperb *View
em,brace8 Mont Blanc, the Lake of Geneva, and the Jura. Comp. Bae-
deker^i Steitzerlaud.
We join the Ohamonix line (see below) and cross the Arve.
392 M. AaneiiiMSt (1420 ft.; BaiL Re$taurant, R. 2VarI>- 3 fr.;
Hot, de I' Europe \ du Mont- Blant)^ a straggling town with 2460
inhab., is the junction for the lines to Geneva (p. 288) and Bouveret
(p. 280), and for the steam - tramway to Samoena (p. 295).
The train backs out, and recrosses the Arve (see above). Fine
view to the left, with Mont Blanc in the distance. — 393 Vs M.
Monnetier- Momex. The village of Momex (see above) lies on the
hillflide to the right, and the deep gorge of the Arve to the left.
The train orosses the Vaieon, ascends through meadows and or-^
chards, in view of the Arve valley, and crosses the Foron to (397 M.)
Beignier. Beyond (399 M.) Pera-Jussy-Chevrier is —
401 M. LaRoehe-tu-royon (1905 ft. ; H6t» dela Ctoix Blanche),
the junction for Annscy (p. 322). To the left is the Tillage with its
ruined castle, picturesquely situated high above the Arve valley.
The line crosses the Foron and beyond a short tunnel descends
into the Arve valley ; view first to the left , then to the right. —
406 M. St, Pierre-de-Rumilly (omnibus twice daily in IV2 hr. to
Le Petit Bornand, p. 326). Then across the Borne and the Arve to —
286 VL Route 49, SALLANCHES. From Pari$
408V2 M. BoBneyille (1457 ft. ; Couronne ; Balcmee), a little town
of 1713 inhab. , picturesquely situated among yine-clad hills. To
the S. is the rocky Polnte d*Andey, to the N. a spur of the Mdle.
A handsome bridge crosses the Arve , on the right bank of which
stands a war- monument for 1870-71. On the opposite bank rises
a column, 73 ft. high, with a statue of King Charles Felix of Sar^
dinia. — Steam-tramway to Bonne, see p» 292.
The Kdle (^130 ft.) is ascended i» 8Vs hrs. flrom Bonneville (guide,
10 fr., not indiapeiisable) via (30 min.) Lipargny^ OalUnous^ and thje cow
loir of tike Pertuu ; or \ii Reyret, the Col de Reyrei (3040 ft.), the Grange
d Biroud (iS/4-2 hrs. •, driving praeticable to this point), and (8/4 hr.) the
Lardhre (4960 ft.), on which is a refage-hut of the F. A. C. Hence to the
summit V4 br. Splendid panorama. — Ascent fVom 6t. Jeoire, see p. 993.
The Polnte d^Andey (6165 ft.) is ascended in 3 hrs. by G/4 br.) Fentchy
and (8/4 hr.) Andey ; or in 81/2 hrs. by («/4 br.) Thuet, (1 hr.) Bn'ron (inn),
and (1 hr.) Solaizon , whence the summit (beautiful view) is reached in
3/4 hr. Carriages may proceed as far as Brizon vi& Vot$iff. — l^o the S.fi.
is the long roeky chain of the Vergy or Bargy (7560 ft.), with the Pic de
Jallouvre (8000 ft.).
The line skirts the right bank of the Arve , traversing a broad
and fertile valley bounded by lofty mountains, and crosses the
Oiffre, From (413 M.) MaHgnier (1530 ft.; Hdt. de la Gare, un-
pretending) a steam-tramway runs to (S^/gM.) PontduRisse (p. 293),
on the Samoens tramway.
417 M. Glntet (1590 ft. ; Hotel de la Oare\ Revux or Michaud),
a small town (pop. 2400), chiefly inhabited by watchmakers.
From Clusbs to Tahimobs (Sixty p. 393); 6M., carriage-road over the
(41/3 M.) Col de Chdtillon (2837 ft.), with a ruined castle and a hotel. The
old road is shorter and is recommended to pedestrians \ to the col, 1 hr.
The railway penetrates the Points de Chevran (4030 ft.) and runs
to the S. through the narrowing gorge of the Arve. — Beyond (420 M.)
Balme^ in the bluish-yellow limestone precipice to the left, 750 ft.
above the road, is the entrance to the Qrotte de BcUme, a stalactite
grotto hardly worth visiting (2hr». there and back ; 3 fr. each pers.).
— 422 M. Maglandj at the foot of a steep cliffy On the right, farther
on, rise the Pointe d'Areu and the Pointe Percee , and an the left,
the Aiguille de Varena (p* 287). The conspicuous Cascade d'Ar-
penaz (165 ft. high) is imposing after rain.
The valley expands. To the 8.E. there is now revealed a superb
*yiew of Mont Blanc , 15 M« distant. The AigaiUe du Qouter. ap-
pears first ; then, from right to left, the-Ddme du Qouter, Mont Blanc
itself, Mont Maudit, Mont Blane du Tacul, Aiguille du Midi, and
Aiguille Verte.
427V2 ^' Sallanohei (1790 ft. ; Hot. du Mont-Blane ; de» Metia-
geries) , a small Industrial town of 2143 inhab», with a fountain,
commemorating the Revolution, adorned with a statue of Peace by
Oambos (1890). Mail-car every morning to (2V4hrs.) M/geve (p. 325).
The view of the Ifont Blane group is more extensive from the heights
surrounding Sallanches, and even from the Moniagne de St, Roeh to the
W. — One of the best points of view is the Pointe Pero<e (9026 ft.), as-
cended (with guide) from ihis side in 5-51/9 hrs. via the (2l/t hn.) Prat-
to Chamonix, ST. CTERVAIS. VL Route 42, 287
^'Si9ti and the (3 hro.) Col des Verts. Towards th« top are one or two
rather difficult points. We may descend to the valley of the Grand Bornand
(p. 326) or to that of the Keposoir (p. 336). On the Beposoir side, near the
summit, is the Ri^/ufft aaurage of the F. A. C. — The Pointe d'Avtu (8067 fl.)
requires 6 hrs., Hi the MoniagnA dt St. Reeh (p. 386) and the Cascade and
i2 hrs.) ChaUts of Doran. — The Aiguille de Yarene or Yaran (8166 ft.),
61/a hrs., with guide , via the (Si/s hrs.) Chalets de Varens and the (1 M.)
Chalets de Barme-Ronsse ; and the Poiiite du Celloney (8833 ft.), 61/3 hrs.,
via the ChaUis de Viran and the Ditert de PUAi, are rather difficilt. The
latter eommands a most magnificent view of Mont Blanc.
Behind (429Vt ^-) P(U$y^Domaneey^ to the left, rise the Mont
d*Arhoi8 (6000 ft.) and Mont Joly (p. 302).
431 M. Le Fayet-St-Geryais (1860 ft.; Hdt. des Alpes, R.2V2-3,
d^j. 3, D. 4 fr., inci. wine; dtla^aix; Caf ^-Restaurant de la Oare;
miiaUway Huffet), the terminus (change of carriages for Ghamonix).
In the wooded ravine whence issues the Bon - Nant , 1/2 H. from Le
Fayet, lies St. Oervais-les-Baias (3(775 ft.; * Grand Hdtel des Bains) ^ a sul-
phur-t^ath, which was totally destroyed by a burst of the Glacier de Tete-
Rousse (p. 3(X)) in July, 1893, bul has been rebuilt in a higher and safer
poaition. — A ehady path leads in 20 min. from the baths (omn. from
th« sUtion, 31/4 M.) to the village of St. Oervais (3680 ft.; ffot. du Mont
Jolpt du Mont-Blanc^ Splendide et des Strangers^ de Genive., all good \ several
pensions), a health-resort, finely situated. Public vehicles ply lienee to
Uffines (p. 334). — About V4 M. below the village (4 min. from the foot-
path to the baths) is the Cascade du Cripin (50 c), a pretty waterfall o(
the Bon-Vant, seen at its best about 3 p. m.
Pedestrians may follow the bridle-'path from 8t. Oervais past the pyra-
mids of earth known as the Cheminees des Fies and over the Col de la
. F«ro]as (5105 ft.), between the T4te - Noire (5800 ft. ; not to be confounded
with the TSte-Noire between Ghamonix and Hartigny) and the Prarion
(6466 ft.), direct to Le FomUp and Les Houchu in 5-6 hrs. (guide desirable,
6 fr.). — A longer but more interesting route (6-7 hrs.) leads over the Col
de Vota (p. 30f). We follow the Gontamines road (see below) to (3 tf .)
Bionnay., a hamlet at the confluence of the Bon-Kant and the torrent of
Bionnassay. We then ascend the valley of the latter stream , pass Bion-
nassafy and join the route mentioned at p. 303.
The Mont Joly (p. 303) may be ascended from St. Oervais in 5 hrs. —
To Les Contamines (p. 303), carriage-road in 3 hrs. — Ascent of Mont Blanc
via the Tite-Rousse^ see p. 300.
From Le Fayst to Sixt by the mountains, 8-9 hrs., with guide. This
interesting route leads vi& the Escaliers de Plati, Hh^Disert de Plati (p. 394),
and the Col da la Portettas (7820 ft.), between the Pointe de Plati (8375 ft. ;
1 hr.) and the Signal de Platl (8180 ft. ; 1 hr. ; fine view). We descend to
the chalets of <Si>)Im (6000 ft. ), then through an im>po6ing ravine with fine
waterfalls, and Anally to Salva/gnif and Sixt (p. 393).
The ElbctbIio BAiLWAy to Ghamonix (i2Vs M., in ^4 ^'* ; ^^'^s
4 fr. 50 c, 2 fr.) orosMS the Bon-Nant and the Arve^ and, after pass-
ing (P/4 M.) Chedde and some large electric works, recrosse^ the
Arve and enters the wooded valley of Le Chdtelard. Passing the
(3 M.) first electric power-station of the railway, we traverse the short
Tunnel du Ckdtelcerd, — 4Vs M. Servot.
From Servot (Hot. de la Diosaz^ Hdt. k la Fougere), we may visit (1 hr.,
there and back) the ^Gorges de la Mesas (adm. 1 fr.), a grand ravine, through
which the Diostu^ a torrent rising on the Buet, dashes in fine cascades. Ac-
cess to the gorge is afibrded by a gallery, lA M. long, attached to the rocks.
— Fbom Sbrvoz to Sixt vift the Cot du Diroehoir (7340 ft.) and the Chalets
de Salles (p. 394), 71/3-8 hrs. with guide, toilsome but interesting. A longe'-
but easier route (8I/4 hrs.) leads via the Col d:'AnUme (p. 394).
288 VL Route 42, OENEVA.
An ascent for about a mile brings us in sight of the second electric
power-station, immediately beyond which the line traverses the
(6 M.) Tunnel de la Cascade and then crosses the Arve by means of
the imposing *Viaduct of Ste. Marie^ 160 ft. high. — 7V2 M. Les
Jlouches, opposite the village of that name (p. 301). — We now enter
the valley of Chamonix, enjoying, to the right, a magnificent view of
Mont Blanc , with the Olaeiers de Taconnaz and des Bossona. W©
cross the Arve. 10 M. Les Bossons (p. 298). The Arve is again
crossed and recrossed. — I2V2 M. Charhonix^ see p. 294. The sta-
tion is on the E. side of the village.
b. Ti& Geneva.
About 445 M. Express Route via Bourg, Ambirieu^ and Culoz^ in 18*
20 hrs. ', DO through-tickets. Passengers must ehange stations at Geneva
(IV4 M. apart) at their own expense. Trains start from the Gare de
Lyon at Paris. — From Paris to Geneva, 389 M., Railway in iiS/4-30 hrs.
(fares 70 fr. 10, 47 fr. 35, 30 fr. 90 c). Sleeping and dining ears, see p. 381.
— From Gbkeva to Chamonix, 56 M. : Railway to (45 M.) Le Faytt-St-
Gtrva%», and thence Eleetric Railway to (12i/aM.) OAamo««a:. Through-fares
13 fr., 7 fr. Circular - tickets, valid for a fortnight., are issued in the sea-
son, returning by the Tete-Noire and Hartigny (or vice versa), but this is
not recommended.
From Paris to (368 M.) Bellegarde, see p. 284. — Beyond the
ValseHne Viaduct and the Cr^ido Ttmnel (p. 284) the line diverges
from that to Annemasse and Cluses (p. 285) and remains on the
right bank of the Rhone. — At (373 M.) Sous-Villard diverges the
line to Gex and Divonne (p. 284). — 376 V2M. Pougny-Chanr.y is the
frontier-station. Chancy, on the left bank, is in the canton of Geneva.
389 M. Geneva (Grand Hotel National, Beaurivage^ des Bergues,
de la Paix, Me'tropole, all of the first class; Bichemond, de Ge-
neve, Suisse, less expensive), see Baedeker's Stuitzerland,
The trains to Le Fayet-Ghamoniz start from the Gare des Eaux-
Vives, which is about IV4 M. distant from the central station or
Gare de Cornavin (the French time is 55 min. behind Swis< time).
— 391 M. Chene, a large Genevese village, the birthplace of L.
Favre (d. 1879), engineer of the St. Gotthard tunnel, to whom a
statue was erected here in 1893. The Foron here marks the frontier
of Savoy. To the right rises Mont Blanc, between the pyramidal
Mdle (p. 286) and the double peaks of the Pointe d'Andey (p. 286).
393V2 M. Annemasse (p. 285) ; no custom-house examination.
Thence to (445 M.) Chamonix, see pp. 285-288.
43. From Annemasse to Martigny viA Evian.
63 M. Railway in about 6 hrs. (fares 16 fr. 30, 10 fr. 45c., 7fr.). —
From Paris to Martigny, 464 M., railway in 211/s-251/8 hrs. (fares 83 fr. SS,
65 fr. 56, 36 fr. 60 c). Trains start from the Gare de Lyon. — A shorter
and cheaper, but not quicker, route from Paris to Martigny runs via Dijon,
Pontarlier, and Lausanne (fares 64 fr. 86, 43 fr. 56, 38 fr. 76 c): see Bae-
dtker'i Smiz^rland:
THONON. IV. Route 43. 289
AnnemcLsae, see p. 285. — 3Vf M. St. Cergues. The Lake of
Geneva is approached on the left. 5 M. Maehilly. —■ 8^/^ M.
Bone-St' Didier.
The ascent of the Yoirons (4T75ft. ; *mtel de VErmitage; *Bdt. du Chalet)
is made hence in 2Va-4 hrs., either on foot or by carriage (one-horse 15,
two -horse 25 fr.). This route will, however, soon be abandoned in
favour of a fnnicalar railway from St. Cei^es. The panorama from the
Summit is very fine, including Mont Blanc, the Lake of Geneva, and
the Jura.
^2Vt M. Perrignier; 14 M. Allinges^Mifsinges (see below).
18Vt M. Thonon-les-Bains (1410 ft.; pop. 5666; *Grand Hdtel
des Bains, with view of the lake; de V Europe; *de France^ near
the station), rising picturesquely from the lake, the ancient capital
of GhahlaiSj has a lofty terrace in the upper town, the site of a
palace (destroyed in 1536) of the Dukes of Savoy. The church of
St. Hippolyte (i5th cent.) has a Romanesque crypt. Near the rail-
way station is a new Bath House , with mineral springs. Gable-
tramway from Bive, the lower part of the town, in 1 V2 vain, (fare 10 c).
Steamer to Geneva^ see Baedeker'i Switzerland. — About ii/2 M. to the
N. E., beyond Omoise, is the Ohdteau of Sipoille (no adm.), the retreat of
Victor Amadeus VIII. pf Savoy (d. 1451), antipope and cardinal. — At
Les AlUnget (1768 ft.), 8 M. to the S.W. of Thonon and about Vs M. from
the above-mentioned station, are the ruins of a 10th cent, chateau (view).
From Thokom to St. Jeoirb, 34 M. (diligence, as far as Bellevaux.
131/2 ^•)- I'he first part of the road ascends the ValUy of the Drance
(see below). 4 M. Armoy; T^/^HL. Reyvrot; 91/2 M. Vattly ^ in the lateral
valley of the Brewon. From (tSl/s M.) BeUevaux (3000 ft.) a footpath
leads to Sevtroux over the Col de Balme (4740 ft.), to the S. of the Poinie
d'Jreuse (8305 ft.). — Farther on the road mounts to the (ISVa '^•) Col de
Jmnhat and then descends to (I81/3 M .) Migevette. Hence to (24 M.) St.
Jeoire, see p. 293.
FaoM Thovow to SamoAns (Valley of the Drance). A mail-cart runs
from Thonon to (13 tf.) Le Biot. The Volley of the Drance deserves a visit
for its picturesque gorges and grottoes. — 71/2 K* Bioge^ at the con-
fluence of the Drance proper, the Brevon (see above), and the Drance
d'Abondance (p. 290). — iOVL. Le Jotty (inn), near which is the Pont du
DiabUy a natural bridge. The Billard (6236 ft.), to the W. of the valley,
may be ascended hence in 3Vahr8. (fine view). — 13 M. Le Biot. The vallev
of Seytroux (see above) opens to the right. — IdVa ^- ^t^ Jean-d'Aulph
(Lion d'Or; Hoc d'E^fer), with a ruined abbey (I2th cent.). Among the
numerous ascents that may be made from here, the most interesting is
that of the Roc d*Bnfer (7350 ft. -, 41/2 hrs.). — 18Va M. Pont des Plagnettet
(hotel). -> 191/2 M. Montriond (hotels). The Lae de Montriond (3445 ft.),
reached directly from the Pont des Plagnettes in 1 br., is a beautiful
Alpine tarn, 1 M. long and Vs ^- wide, surrounded by precipitous moun-
tains. At its head is the fine Cascade dl' Ardent. Near Montriond the road
for (41/2 H.) Les Gets (3645 ft.) and (10 M.) Taninges diverges to the right
from that to Morzine. — 2IV2 V- Mondne (H6t. des Alpes) is finely situat-
ed and a good centre for excursions. To the N.E. (3 hrs.) is a valley
with slate-quarries. To the S.E. rises the Pointe de Rettachau (7130 ft.),
an easy ascent of SVohrs- To the S. are the Pointe de Nions (6635 ft.) and
the P^te etAngolon (o880-ft.), two other easy and interesting ascents (8 hrs.
and 4 hrs.). — Three paths lead from Horsine to Samoens. The first of
these (6V2 hrs.) remains in the valley and passes near the Source of the
Drance (2 hrs.), under the scarp of the Terres Maudites. [To the left
diverges ajpath leading to (3-31/2 hrs.) Champery(p.391) over the Col de
Goux (p. 391). J The Samoens route then ascends to (IV4 hr.) the Ool de la
0«ltoe (5480 ft.), whieh commands a fine view. Thence we descend by
Baedeker. Southern France. 4th Edit. Id
290 IV, BoutedB. EVIAN. From Annemaase
the chalets of Les Chavannes and the hamlet of L«s AUatnands to the valley
of the Oiffre and (Si/ahrs.) <S«mo*n»(p. 293). —The second path from Mor-
aine to Samoens (5S/4 hrs.) ascends to the S., on the left bank^ paMioe
to the £. of the Pointes de Nions and d^Angolon , to the (SV^ hrs.) Ool
de Jouplane (5635 ft. ^ view) and descends via the chalets of PiUp and
Vigny. — The third path (61/4 hrs.) leads vi& the (38/4 hrs.) Col cT Angolan
(5740 ft.), descending via the (V4 hr.) Chalets d'Angolon and (50 min.) Le$
Allamands (p. 389).
From Thonok to Aboddakcb, 18V2^-i omnibus in 4 hrs. At (71/2 ^-^
Bioge (p. 2^) the road quits the valley of the Dranee proper and ascends
to the left through that of the Dranee cTAbondance. — Abondanoe (3982ft. \
H6t. du Mont d€-Grange\ a prettily situated village with an abbey dating
from 595 and an interesting church, is a good centre for excursions. —
Farther up the wooded valley we pass (IVa ^^'^ ^ Chapelle (hotel) and
(S/4 hr.) Chdtel^ and reach the Swiss frontier at the Pas de Margin (4735 ft.).
Hence we descend to (IVa ^^') J^orgin (Grand-Hotel), a small watering-place
about 9 M. from Monthey (p. 391). — The Cornettes de Bise (8000 ft. ; 6I/3 hrs.)
and the Pointe de Orange (8000 ft. ;• 4 hrs.) may be ascended from Abon-
dance.
Laringes is 6 H. from Thonon , and Bemex (see below) is 6 M.
beypnd Laringes.
Beyond Thonon the railway <>.rosses the Dranee, which is almost
dry in saminer and forms a large delta as it ent^s the lake.
23 M. Amphion-l«B- Bains (Grand Hdtd; Hdt. des Bains), a
small watering-place on the lake, with two cold mineral springs. It
is touched at by some of the steamers and is also served by an
omnibus f^om Evian.
24^4 M. Evian -les- Bains. The station (omnibuses, 50 c.) is
Vt M. from the town. — 25 M. Bains d' Evian is the nearest station
to the town.
Hotels. *Splevdidb Hotel, finely situated above the town, R. 5-10,
B. IVa, d^j- 31/21 D. 6, pens. 13-15 fr. ; •Gr. Hot. des Baiks, on the E. side
of the town, R. from 41/3, D. 8 fr. ^ de Fovbokde; de Paris, all of the
first classy Beaurivaob; de Frahcb, R. S-4, B. 1, dj^. SPL/3, D. 31/2, pens.
8-10 fr. ; DBS Alpes, Continental, des Etbangers (7-8i/a fr.), Natioval,
Du XoRD, all in the Grande Rue. — CaMs. Cafi- Restaurant du (kuino^
du TM&tre^ Beau-Site^ de la Rigence^ Franqais^ ffelveUa.
Baths, 11/2-3 fr., less to subscribers. Admission to the Casino, 1/2 fr.
for a concert, 1 fr. per day, 10 fr. per month, 15 fr. per season.
Stsamboats to Geneva^ Le Bouverety OticAy, etc. — Rowing Beats, 3 fr.
for the first hr., 31/2 fr. for the second, 3 fr. each additional hr.
Evian, with 2830 inhab., is well situated on the Lake of Qeneva.
It possesses two cold mineral springs, and is an important watering-
place, frequented mainly by fashionable French society. The Both*
are in the middle of the town ; the Casino is near the lake.
Excursion to Ouchy^ the port of Lausanne, by steamboat in 40 min.,
see Baedeker^ s StoUzerland. Dent d'Oche^ see below. The Dent is also
ascended from Bemex (3990 ft.; inn), 8l/s H. to the S.E. of Evian, in
41/2-5 hrs. via the chalets of Oehe. — Excursions by carriage from BriAn
to various points in the neighbourhood are arranged in the season (apply
Grande Rue 37).
28 M. lAigrin- Tour 'Sonde; 31 M. MciUerie. The Geneva
boats call at this and the two following stations. — 34^4 M. 81. Oia-
golph (Lion d'Or; Hdt du Lac), a village lying half in France and
half in Switzerland, the boundary being the Morge,
The Blanohard (5086ft.; view), to the S.W., may be aseended henee
in about 3 hrs. by the (II/4 hr.) little village of Navel (•Inn). — Tl»* Am^
to MarHgny, CHAMPJISBY. IV, Route 43, 291
d'Oeba (7900 ft.), farther on in the same direction, is ascended from Novel
in 5 lir«. (guide) by O/a hr.) Lei Orcmges and (SJi/s hrs.) the ChdleU d'Oehe.
The summit (2 hrs.) is reached beyond a couloir aad an arete. We may
descend by Btrnex to Evian (see p. 2^). — The *Orammpnt (7135 ft.) is easily
ascended from St. Gingolph in 4 hrs. , by the chalets of Fritaz and La
Gkaumenp. Grand riew. The ascent from Novel (4 hrs. , with guide) Is
harder. Ascent from Youvry, see below.
38Vi M. Le Bonveret (Hotel de la Towr ; du Chalet de la Foret)
Is at the upper end of the Lake of Geneva^ about ^j^ M. fxom the
point where the Rhone enters it. The line now reaches the Rhone
Valley, and follows the left bank of the river. Beyond Port Valais
it passes through the rocky de:flle of La Porte du Sex. — 43 M.
Vouvry (Hot. de la Poste).
The *Orammont (see above) is ascended hence in 5 hrs. via Ifiex (inn)
and Tanay, with its lake. — The ascent of the ^ornettes d« Bise (80(X) ft.),
on the frontier, to the E., takes 6 hrs. The route leads via Miexy the Col
de Vemazy and the chalet of La Cailae (p. 290).
49 M. Monthey (1410 ft.; Oerf; Hdt. desPostes, both moderate).
To the 8. W. of Monthey opens the beautiful *Val dIllibz, 15 M.
in length, watered by the viite , in the upper part of which lies Cham-
p4ry (£(90 ft. ; *DenU^-Midi; Alpet; *B€rra;*Croix-Fidirale)^ 8I/2 H. from
Monthey (omnibus in summer twice daily in 31/4 hrs.). This is the starting-
point for excursions to the ^Oaleries (20 min. ; adm. 50 c; view) : to Ihe Roc
dTAyeme (1 hr.) ^ to the *Oulet (6450ft. ; 3 hrs. ) : to the ^Dent du Midi (10,775 ft. •,
7-8 hrs.; fiitiguing); to the Tour Sallibrts (10,587 ft.; 8-» hrs.; difficult);
to the DenU Blanches (9100 ft. ; 6 hrs.), etc. See Baedeker's Switterland^ and
comp. Map, p. 292.
From CbampAst to Mobzimb ob to SamoSms, 5 hrs. and ^VnhTi^. The
mule-path ascends the valley to (3 hrs.) the Col de Conx (6310 ft. ; /»f»),
the frontier of Switzerland and Savoy. Those who are bound for Morzine
(p. 91) descend into the V<Mey of the Drance. For Samo'ins (p. 293) we
afteend to the left to (IV2 hr.) the Col de la Oolhe (p. 289).
From Champert to Sixt ovrb the Col de Saobrou, 8-9 hrs., arduous,
for adepts only (guide necessary, 18 fr.). From the Hotel de la Dent du
Midi we descend by a narrow road leading towards the head of the
vaUey to a (20 min.) bridge , and beyond it , at (3 min.) the point where
two brooks unite to form the Vihi^ ^ we cross another bridge, and avoid
the path to the left. After 10 min« more we take the path to the left,
ascending rapidly for 1 hr., and 10 min. from the top of the ascent reach
the ChaUU de Bonaveaux; thence we ascend gradually, skirting precipitous
rocks, to the (40 min.) Pas d^Encel, where a little careful climbing is
necessary. In V4 ^i** more the path by the Col de Glusanfe to the Dent
du Midi (p. 310), or to Vernayaz (p. 292), diverges to the left. Our route
ascends slowly over the pastures of the Sutam/e or Clusanje Alp^ on the
left bank of the brook, crosses the brook (V2 ^f-)-^ aud then mounts a v^y
steep and dizzy path to the (1 hr.) Col de Sagerou (7917 ft.), a sharp arete
on the frontier, descending abruptly on both sides. We descend thence
to the (3/4 hr.) chalets of Vogealle (6115 ft.) and (I/2 hr.) Boray^ and along
*a steep rocky slope into the (1/2 ^^'O valley of the Oiffre. In II/4 hr. we
reach Nani Bridej and in I1/4 hr. more Sixt (p. 293).
The railway crosses the Vieze beyond Monthey, approaches the
Rhone, and joins the line to Geneva via Lausanne.
52 M. St. Manrioe (1377 ft.; Buffet; Hotel Orisogono, at the
station; Hdt. des Alpea), a picturesque old town with narrow
streets , on a delta between the river and the cliffs , the Roman
Agaunum, is supposed to derive its name from St. Maurice, the com-
Qi^n4er pf the Jheban legion , who is said to have suffered martyr*
292 rv. Route 43, MARTIONY.
dom here with his companions in 302. — Ahout IVt ^' to the £.
are the Baths of Lavey,
Beyond (57 M.) Evionnaz railway and road skirt a projecting
rock close to the Rhone. On the right is the *Pissevaohe, a beautiful
cascade of the Scdanfe, which here falls into the Rhone Valley
from a height of 230 ft. {^/^ M. from Vernayaz ; morning'light best).
59 M. Yernayaz (1635 ft.; *Qrand'H6ttl des Gorges du Trient,
VjM. from the station, finely situated at the entrance of theOorges,
flrst-class; *Hdt, des Alpes, unpretending; H6t. de la Oare), the
starting-point of the road to Chamonix vi& Salvan (p. 310). Car-
riage to Le Chatelard 25 fr. ; guide (unnecessary) 6 fr.
On the right, beyond Vernayaz, we observe the bare rocks at
the mouth of the *Oorges du Trient, which may be ascended ifor
Vs M. by means of a wooden gallery attached to the rocks above the
foaming stream. Tickets (1 i¥.) at the Grand-Hotel.
The tower of La Batiaz (1985 ft.), the relic of an old chateau
once J[)elonging to the bishops of 8ion, appears on a hill to the right,
commanding a fine view of the Rhone Valley (Vi^r. from the bridge ;
adm. 30 c). The train crosses the Drance,
62 M. Martigny (1560 ft.; * Hotel Clerc; du Mont-Blanc; du
Grand St, Bernard) presents an animated appearance in summer,
being the starting-point of the routes over the TSte - Noire (p. 309)
and the Col de Balme (p. 311) to Chamonix, over the Great St.
Bernard to Aosta, and for the Val de Bagnes.
For eontinuation of the railway to Briguty the Or tat St. Bernard Road^
etc., see Baedektr'^s Switzerlcmd,
44. From Annemasse to Chamonix, vi& Sixt, the Col
d'Anteme, and the Col dn Br6vent.
Stbam Tramway from Annemasse to (371/s M.) SamocSns in 3 hr«. (fares
3 fr. 55, 3 fr. 20 e.). Omvibus from Samoens to (41/2 M.) Sixt (fare 1 fr.).
The road is very dusty in summer. — From Sixt to ChanumiXy 11 hrs.,
mule -track', a very interesting excursion, as it commands the finest
view of Mont Blanc, but long and fatiguing, as the cols are generally
crossed about midday. If the weather is settled and there has been no
snow, a guide (18 fr., return-fee included) may be dispensed with. Pro-
visions should be taken, as only a tittle milk can be reckoned on during
the journey. Comp. the upper left-hand corner of the accompanying map.
Annemasae, see p. 2S5. The Steam Tramway leaves the valley
of the Arve to the right and passes Malhrande y Bas - Monthoux,
and Borly, To the left are the Voirvns (p. 289). — 3Vt M. La
Bergue{iQSOtt,\ Croix-Blanche).
The Pralaire (4630 ft. ; *View) the S. peak of the Voirons (p. 989), may
be aseended hence in 3 hrs. vi& (9/4 hr.) Lueinget and Le$ Oets.
5 M. Bonne (H5t. du Navire) , on the Menoge ; branch-tramway
to (8 M.) Bonneville, see p. 286. - 7 M. Pont de FUlinges (1784 ft.),
at the confluence of the Menoge and the Foron,
SIXT. IV. Route 44. 293
An omnibus runs hence twice daily to (41/2 l^-) BoSge (hotels) , the
most eonyenient starting-point for an ascent of the Voiron$ (2 hrs. ; p. 289).
We ascend the valley of the Foron. — 10 M. Viuz-en-Salloi
To the left is the Pointe des Brasses, to the right the Mdle.
13 M. St. Jeoire (1925 ft.; H6L de la Couronne; des Alpes;
Chalet du Mdle ; Hdt. Blanc) y near which is the Chdteau de la
Flecker e, A statue of Sommeiller (1815-71), one of the engineers
of the Mont Cents tunnel, has been erected here.
About 5 H. to the N. lies Miffevette (Decroux^s Inn), with large caves,
only in part explored. — From Mdgevette to Thonotty see p. 289.
The Pointe des Brames (4945 ft.) is easily ascended from St. Jeoire in
about 3 hrs. — The Kdle (6130 ft.; fine view; p. 386) may be ascended in
4 hrs. (3 hrs. of which are practicable for horses) via Montrenaz and the
chalets of Pinget^ Char-d^en-BM^ Char-d'en-Hauiy and VBcuUeu.
ISVj M. Pont du Risse. Tramway to Marignier (p. 286).
We now enter the pretty Valley of the Oiffre , on the N. side of
which we ascend rapidly (fine view to the right). — I6V2 M. Mieussy,
to the W. of the Pointe de Marcelly (see below). The road rounds
the Roc de Suets (3000 ft.) and skirts the Giffre.
21 M. Taninges (2100 ft.; Balances), a small industrial town,
VjM. from which is the old Abbey of M^an, now a seminary. Route
to Cluses, see p. 286; to Morzine, see p. 290.
The Pointe de Kaaroelly (7105 ft.) is ascended hence in 8I/3 hrs. via
(li/s hr.) Prat-de-Lys or Pradely (60S0 ft. ; new hotel) and PUmey.
At the head of the valley rises the CHou (7380 ft.). — 25V2 M.
Verchaix- Moritlon (Hdt.-Pens. da Mont-Buet).
271/2 M. Samoeiis (2490 ft.; * Croix d'Or, moderate; du Com-
merce, unpretending), with 2540 inhab., at the foot of the Criou.
Good view Arom the little chapel, 10 min. above the church.
From Samoens to Thonon, either to the left over the Col de Jouplane^
or to the right over the Col de la OoUsey see pp. 290. 289. — To Champiry^
on the N. , in 7 hrs. over the Col de la OoUse and Col deCoux^ see p. 291.
The SixT Road enters the defile of Les Tines, beyond which we
enjoy a view of the Valine des Fonds with the Cascade du Rouget
(p. 294) to the right, and then of the Sixt Valley to the left.
32 M. Sixt (2485 ft.; * Hdt. -Pens, du Fer-a-Ckeval, in an
old monastery, R. 3, B. IV2} ^' 3 fr., unpretending) is locally
known as L'Abbaye.
Emvibohs. In spring, when the melting of the snow swells the streams,
the environs of Sixt abound in fine waterfalls, there being no fewer
than thirty in the upper part of the valley alone, which is called from
its shape Valine du For a Cheval. In summer and autumn, however,
their number dwindles to five or six. An attractive excursion may be
taken, through the debris of a landslip of 1602, to the (3 hrs.) Fond de
la Combe (91275 ft.>, «t the head of the valley, with a waterfall.
From Sixt to Champery over the Col de Sagerou (7917 ft.; 5 hrs.), see
p. S91. The col is to the W. of Kont Ruan (9995 ft.; ascent thence 4-41/2
hrs., with guide). The view is very fine. — The Pointe des Avaudmes
(8310 ft. ) , more to the W. , is ascended from Sixt in 5 hrs. , via the
(21/3 hrs.) chalets of Salvadon (5285 ft.), whence also the ascent of the
Sambet (7330 ft. ; 2 hrs.) may be made. The final cone of the Avaudrues
is rather difficult.
The pyramidal Pie de Tanneverge or Tenneverge (9800 ft. ; view) may
be aseenaed from (he Col de Sagerou in by^-Q hrs., with a guide (difficult),
294 TV, Boute U. COL D'ANTEBNE.
OF in 31/2 hrs. from the Col de Tanneverge (7745 ft. ; 7 brs. from Sixt).
From the Col de Tanneverge we may deseend to the (II/4 br.) Barberine
Club Hut (6135 ft.), in the valley of the £au Noire ^ and thence ascend
again to the (IV2 hr.) Col de la Gueula (6380 ft.) and (U/a hr.) Finhaui (p. 309).
The ascent of the Pointe or TAte Peloute (8190 ft.), to the 6. of Sixt,
is made in 51/3-6 hra. past the Lae de &ers (huts) and the Col de PlaU.
The summit affords a very fine view of Hoat Blanc. The descent may
be made to Le Fayet and St. Gervais (p. 287), by the Disert de Ptati
(Mapiaz'; p. 323) and the EseaHer* de PUtU.
From Sixt to Ghamonix (mule-track: see p. 292). We cross
the Giflfre and ascend the ValUt des Fonds to the S., in View of the
beautifal Pointe de Salles (8180 ft. ; ascent of 2 hrs. from the Cha-
lets des Fonds). Near (^/{ hr.) Salvagny we pass the picturesque
Cascade du Df char gear (on the right), and '/j hr. farther on is the
fine Cascade du Motiget, Near (4*/^ M. ; 2 hrs. from Sixt) the Chalets
des Fonds (4550 ft. ; inn) is 'Eagle's Nest' , the summer-residence
of Sir Alfred Wills, at the foot of the Buet{sw below). About 5mii).
farther up, beyond the bridge, we ascend to the right (path to the
left to the Col L^chaud, see below), describing a wide curve past the
(1 hr.) ruined Chalets de Orasse-Chevre (5600 ft.) to (1 hr. more)
the Signal or Bas du Col d'Anterne (6810 ft.). Then, leaving the
Chalets d^Anteme below us to the right, we skirt the Lac d^Anteme
(6690 ft.), above which rises the Tete-a-VAne (9165 ft.), and in
IVihr. reach the *Col d'Antenw (7425 ft.), where a magnificent
survey of Mont Blanc is suddenly revealed. We descend to the left
(path to the right to Servoz, p. 287), passing the (72 hr.) chalets of
Moede (6160 ft. ; Ohalet-Hdtel du Col d'Anterne^ good and moderate),
into the valley of the Diosaz, Beyond a (II/2 hr.) bridge (5680 ft.) we
re-ascend, via the chalets of Arlevd, to the (2 hrs.) €ol du Br^yent
(8075 ft.), which also commands a superb view of Mont Blanc. De-
scent ^ chiefly through wood, via P^an-Prox and Les Chablettes
(p. 298) to (2V4 hrs.) Chamonix.
From Sixt to Ghamonix otbr thb Bust, 12-13 hrs., fatiguing but inter-
esting (guide necessary, 23 fr. incl. return). To the Chalets dei Fonde^ see
above. Then to the left to the (21/2 hrs.) eonloir of Beaux-Pris, close to
the Col Lichaud (7490 ft.), and to the N. over turf, loose stenes, and snow
to the S.W. arete, the small Cdbaw Pidet (9970 ft.), and the (21/2 hrs.)
top of the *Buet (10,200 ft.). Magnificent view of the Mont Klane range,
Monte Rosa, the Matterhorn, the Bernese Alps with the Jungfran and
the Finsteraarhorn, the Dent du Midi, and the Jura as far as the moun-
tains of Dauphiny. A toilsome descent leads to (9 hrs.) the Chalet de la
Pierre it Birard (8330 ft. ; small inn) and through the VaUie de Birard
(p. 306) to Argentihre and (5-6 hrs.) Chamonix (see below).
46. Chamonix and its Environs.
Hotels. *Gbamd-H6t. Oouttbt, frequented by the English, R. from 3,
D. 4 (r.\ *HdT. Imperial et JIetaopolb, *HdT. d'Av«lbtbrbb bt de
LovDRBS, *RoTAJ. ET DE Savssdsb , at thcsc R. from 3 or 4, d^j. 3l/s, D.
5 fr. ; •du Momt-Blako, R. 21/2-5, D. 5 fr. ; •des Alpbs, R. 3, D. 4 fr. — Hot.
DE Frakcb, R. from 2, dej. 2i/2fr. ■, Balmat^ de Paris ^ de l'Europb, well
spoken of^ Beau-Site, R. from 2, D. 31/2 fr. ; *Suisse, similar charges ; de
i<A PosTB, R. 2-3, D. 31/9 fr. ; de la Paix; *Bbaq-Rivaqb, similar charges;
•Hl5B pft Glaou, Route de Martigny, R. from Sl/j, d^j. 3, p. 31/, fr, ; Bki.lr-
' - *
i
i
CHAMONIX. jy. Route 46. 295
rcB; BsAiraijouR, hdtel garni; H6t. db la Tbbbasib-, db Chamoiiix, B.
from iVs^ I)- ^l/s fr-) ^^11 spoken of.
Onidu. A guide is unnecessary for the Jfontanvtrty the FUgire^ the
Br4veni^ the Plan dtf VAiguilUy and the Pierre Poiniue. Opportunities of
asking the way are frequent. Visitors to the Chapeau need engage a
guide only for the passage of the Her de Olaee to or from the Chapeau
(y. 396), — The guides at Ghamonix form a society under a Guide-Chef^
who assigns (hem to applicants in, rotation; but travellers may choose
tbeir own guides. Full pay must be given for an ordinary tonr if more
than half completed but given up at the traveller's desire; when less
than half has been completed two thirds of the tariff must be paid (special
tariff for Mont Blanc , p. 300). The guides are bound on the ^courses
ordinaires* to carry baggage not exceeding li6 lbs. ; on the ^courses eztra-
ordinaires\ 15 lbs. only. — . The following are recommended for difficult
expeditions: Fr^d. Payot; Aug. Cupelin; Henri, Jo». AWert, and Frangois
Devouastoud ; Benott Simon (nicknamed Benoni) ; Jos. Adolphe Simond^ of Praz ;
/Van;. , Al/.^ Jot. Alb.^ and Jo$. Alex. Simond., of Lavancher; Oa»p. and
Joa. aimond^ of Les Mossons; Arm. CoutM; Michel and Front. FoUiguet;
Mich. Savioz ; Frang. Meugnier ; Mich. Aug.., and Jot. Denailloud; Jean- Jot.
Burnet; Alf. 9kud P.-Ch. Comit; Jot. Caehat;Jot. Toumier ; Aritl. Farini.
Horses and Miiles. The same charges are made as for the ^courses
ordinaires* of the guides.
The Oolleetioa of Pictures of M. Loppi^ a well-known painter of Alpine
leenery, situated behind the Hotel Royal, on the way to the Montanvert,
ia worth seeing. Admission gratis (fee to the servant).
English Church Service during the season (p. 296).
Points of Interest. The traveller should devote three or four days at
least to Ghamonix, but those who have one day only at command should
ascend the Montavvbbt (p. 296) in the morning (2V9 hrs.) , cross the Mbb
DB Olacb (p. 296) to the (li/a hr.) Chapeau (p. 296), descend to (1 hr.) X«x
Tmtt (p. 297), ascend the Flbo^bb (p. 297; 21/2 hrs.), and descend thence in
\>U hr. to (3bamonix. Early in the morning the path to the Montanvert
is in shade , in the afternoon that to the Fl^g^re at least partly so ; and
by this arrangement we reach the Fldg^re at the time when the light is
most favourable for the view of Mont Blanc. For this excursion a
Sttide (to be found on the Montanvert) is necessary for the'Mer de Olace
only. Riders send their mules round from Montanvert to Les Tines or
the Chapeau to meet them. The excursion to the Fleg^re alone takes
5 hrs. , and that to the Montanvert or the Chapeau about the same time.
' On a cloudy afternoon, when the views from the heights are concealed,
the Glacibs dbs Bossoks (p. 298) is the best object for a walk (there and
back 3 hrs.). — To the Cascadb db Blaiti^bb, on the hillside to the £.
of Chamonix, V2 ^^- (adm. 1/2 f*"-)- ~ The Plan db l'Aigvillb (p. 299),
3*31/2 hrs., or iucl. the Lae de Bktitiire^ 4 hrs. (thei« and back, with stay,
7 hrs.). — To the Pavillon db la Pibrrb - Poimtub (p. 298) and back,
5-6 hrs.; or, including the Aiguille de la Tour and Pierre k TEchelle, a
whole day. — Ascent of the BsivBVT (p. 296) and back, 7 hrs.; ascent or
descent by the Fl^g^e 2 hrs. more.
The ^Valley of Ohamoniz (3415 ft; pop. 2435), or Chamouny,
12 M. long , V« M. wide , watered by tbe Arve , runs from N. E. to
S. W., from the Col de Balme to Les Houches. It is bounded on
the S.£. by the Mont BUmc chain, with its huge ice -cataracts,
the Glaciers du Towr^ d'ArgentUre, dea Bois (Mer de Qlace) y and
des BoMona; and on the N.W. by the Aiguilles Rouges and the
Br event. The valley was first brought into cultivation by a Bene*
dictine priory in the 12th cent. , but it remained practically un-
known until the 18th cent.', when it was visited by the English
trayellers Pococke and Windham (1741) and the Genevese natural-
296 IV, Route 46. CHAMONIX. Montanvert.
i«ts De Saussure (1760) and Bourrit (1769). It is inferior to the
Bernese Oberland in picturesqueness of scenery, but superior in the
grandeur of its glaciers, in which respect it has no rival but Zermatt.
In front of the Hotel Royal rises the ^Saossnre Konoment, un-
veiled in 1887, on the centenary of Saussure^s ascent of Mont Blanc
(comp. p. 299). The bronze group (by J. Salmson) represents
Saussure conducted by Balmat (p. 299). A small monument to Bal-
mat stands in front of the church.
The *Hontanyert, or Montenvers (6267 ft. ; 2V8 hrs. ; guide, 6 fr.,
unnecessary ; horse and attendant 12 fr.) , a height on the £. side
of the valley , is visited for the view it affords of the vast 'sea of
ice' which fills the highest basins of the Mont Blanc chain in three
branches (Olacier du O^ant or du TactU, Glacier de Leachaux , and
Glacier de Tallfre) and descends into the valley in a huge stream
of ice, about 4V2 M. long and ^1%-i^U M. broad, called the Mer
de Glace above the Montanvert and the Glacier dea Bois below it.
The bridle-path leads to the left by the Hotel Royal, passes the little
English Church, and follows the telegraph-wire to the Hdtel du
Montanvert. At the ( V4 hr.) houses of Les Mouilles we turn to the
right; after V4 hr., to the right again; thence, via the (lOmin.) Cha-
lets des Planards, to (40 min.) Le Caillet (4900 ft. ; rfmts.). Farther
on (12 min.), a bridle-path to the left descends to Les Bois ( p. 297).
Our path ascends gradually, at first through wood, to the (1 hr.)
Hdtel du Montanvert (R. 3-4, B. 2, d^*. 4, D. 5 fr.), at the top of
the hill, commanding the *MeT de Glace and the mountains around
it: opposite us rises the huge Aiguille du Dru (12,320ft.); behind
it, to the left, is the snow-clad Aiguille Verte (13,540 ft.) and lower
down, the Aig, a Bochard (8767 ft); to the right, the Aig, du Moine
(11,198 ft.); farther distant are the Grandes Jorasses (13,797 ft.), the
Mont Mallet (13,084 ft.), and the Aig, du G/ant (13,170 ft.); and
immediately to our right tower the Aig, des Charmoz (11,293 ft.)
and de Blaitilre (11,560 ft.).
From the Montanvert travellers usually cross the Mer de Glaoe to
the (1^4 hr.) Chapeau, opposite. A path descends the left lateral
moraine to (10 min.) the glacier. The passage of the glacier (^4 hr. ;
guide, unnecessary for the experienced, 3 fr., to the Chapeau 6 fr.)
presents no difficulty. On the opposite side we ascend over debris .'
to the (5 min.) top of the right lateral moraine (6065 ft. ; rfmts.),
skirting which we then descend by a narrow path along th%* Mauvais
Pas*y where the path is hewn in steps and flanked with iron rods
attached to the rocks, to the (40 min.) Chapeau.
The *Chapeaa (5279 ft. ; Inn) , a projecting rock on the N.E.
side of the Glacier des Bois,-at the base of the Aiguille a Bochard,
is considerably lower than the Montanvert , but commands an ex-
cellent survey of the ice-fall of the Glacier des Bois and the Gha-
monix Valley. In the background, Afon^ Mallet (13,084 ft.) and the
Aiguille du (?ca«^ (13,170 ft); to the right, the Aiguilles des Char-
Fl^ghrt. CHAMONIX. VL Route 45, 297
moz (11,293 ft), de Blaitiere (11,560 ft.), du Plan (12,050 ft.), and
du Midi (12,608 ft.), the Bostes du Dromadaire (14,950 ft.), the
D&me du Ootkter (14,210 ft), and the Aig. du Qodter (12,610 ft).
A bridle - path descends the moraine from the Chapeau , and
leads through pine-wood to (40 min.) the Hotel Beau-Sejour (p. 307).
Here it divides: to the right to (10 min.) Lavancher, to the left to
(20 min.) Les Tines (p. 307). — Another path, */^ hr. shorter but
rather roiigh , diverges to the left about 20 min. from the Chapeau,
and descends by the moraine , passing the Source of the Arveyron
below to' the left, to Lea Bois and (40 min.) Let Praz (p. 307).
The *Jiirdia (0890 ft. ; guide oecesaary, 13 fr.) is a triangular rock rising
from the midst of the Olacier de Tali/re^ and walled in by moraines.
Around a spring in the midst of this oasis Alpine flowers bloom in August.
From the Hontanvert, where the night is passed, we skirt the somewhat
dizzy rocks of Le* Fonts to the right and traverse the moraine to the Angle ;
here we take to the erevassed Mer de Glace, and ascend its moraine,
and then the moraines of the Glaciers du Tacul , de Leschanx, and de
Talefre (containing numerous crystals) to the foot of the Couverele. We
now mount rapidly to the left by a good path (3 hra. from the Angle)
and skirt the rocks above the S4rac8 de Tali/re^ till we are opposite the
huge rock of the Jardin. The Olacier de Talefre is then crossed to the
foot of the Jardin (IVs'S hrs.)^ whence we descend to the (Vs br.) refuge-
hut on the Pierre A Biranger (8110 ft.) and return to the Montanvert in
about 3 hrs. This excursion introduces us to the grand icy wilds of the
Mont Blanc group ; though somewhat fatiguing, it presents no difficulty to
good walkers. Provisions necessary.
The Aiguilla Verte (13,540 ft.), the highest peak between the Mer de
Glace and the Glacier d'Argenli^re, is ascended by good climbers from
the Montanvert in 10-12 hrs. (difficult; guide 100 fr.). We follow the Jardin
route as far as the Couverele (see above), ascend the Glacier de Tal^fre< and
mount by a long snow-couloir to the ridge between the Aig. Verte and Les
Droites \ hence to the left to the top. — The Aiguille du Thn (Grand Dru or
Pointe E$t 13,330 ft., guide 90 fr. ; Petit Dru or Pointe Charlet 13,345 ft., guide
130 fr:) ; the AiffaiUe <l« BlaitiAre (11,550 ft. ^ guide 80 fr.), the AiguiUes
des Charmos (11,303 ft. ; guide 80 fr.) are all difficult and fit for first-rate
climbers only.
The *7l6gftre (6158ft.; 3 hrs.; guide, 7fr., unnecessary; horse
and attendant 14 fr.), to the N. of Chamonix, is a buttress of the
Aiguille de la Floriaz (9475 ft.), a peak of the Aiguilles Rouges,
We follow the Argentiere road to (IV2 M.) LeChahle, The direct
footpath diverges to the left just on this side of the Arre bridge,
leading in 12 min. through meadows (marshy at places) to the foot
of the ascent. [The bridle-route, a few minutes longer, crosses the
Arve to Les Praz, diverges to the left at the last house (guide-post),
crosses the Arve, and is joined by the path mentioned above.] "We
now ascend the stony slope in long zigzags. After 35 min. we enter
the wood to the right, pass (35 min.) the Chalet des Praz (rfmts.),
and in 1 hr. more reach the Croix de la Flegere (Inn, d^j. S*/^,
D. 4, pens. 6 fr.). The *View embraces the chain of Mont Blanc,
from the Col de Balme to beyond the Glacier des Bossons. Opposite
U8 lies the basin of the Glacier des Bois (Mer de Qlace), enclosed
by sharply defined Aiguilles : to the left the Aig. du Dru and the
huge Aig, Verte; to the right the Aiguilles des CharmoZj de BM-
298 JV. Route 46, CUAMONIX. Br^vtnt,
Here, du Plan, and du Midi, The summit of Mont Blanc is also
distinctly seen, but, owing to the distance, is less striking than the
lower peaks. The jagged pinnacles of the AiguiUea Mougea also
present a singular appearance. Evening -light is most favourable.
From the Flegere the bridle-path coDtinues to (1 hr.) the PaviUon de In
FioHtu (rfmtfl.), from which we may ascend the AiguiUt d€ la OUhre
(8353 ft.; 2Vshrs.; euide 15 fr.), the AiguUle de Floriaz (9475 ft.; 3 hrs.;
20 f^.), or the *Beiv4dire (9730 ft. ; 4 hrs. ; 30 fr. ; for adepts only), one of
the highest peaks of the Aiguilles Rouges, affording a magnificent view. —
Those bound from the Fl^g^re to Argenti^re or to the Chapeau may descend
directly to L0 Joux (eomp. p. 807 ; path hardly to be mistaken on the deaeent).
The *Br6y6nt (8285 ft.; guide 10 fr., unnecessary), the S.W. pro-
longation of the AiguUles Rouges, affords a similar but finer view :
Mont Blanc is here revealed in all its grandeur; to the right of the
Buet we see the Bernese Alps , and to the S.W. the Alps of Dau-
phiny. The bridle-path (iVa hrs.) leads from Chamonix to the W.,
passing the hamlets of La Molaz and Les Mossoux, and ascends
through wood to (IV2 hr.) Plan- Achat (6160 ft; rfmts., dear), an
admirable point of view; and then in numerous zigzags to the
(IV4 hr.) Plan Bel- Achat (7067 ft ; restaurant, bed 2, D. 4 fir.), on
a saddle to the S.W. of the summit. Thence to the top (unpretending
restaurant), passing the sombre little Lac du Br event, l^/j hr. more.
Or we may ascend the ^Ghemin Huletier de Chamonix a Slxt* (p. 394), past
the Rettanrani det Ghdbleiiety to (3 hrs.) Plcm-Prat (6772 ft.; "Hotel, pens.
6-7 fr.), then mount rather steeply to the left, and lastly through the '•CKeminie^
to the (IV4 br.) summit (guide 10 fr.). Iron bars are fixed in the chim-
ney to assist climbers, and steps are cut in the rock ; some of the former^
however, have been torn away, so that a guide, especially on the de-
scent, is advisable for novices. — The Br«Svent inay also be combined with
the Flegere. The ^Route de PIan-Praz\ a well-defined path, diverges to the
right from the Flegere path, 20 min. below the Croix de la Flegere, and fol-
lows the slope of the mountain , in full yiew of the Mont Blanc chain,
passing the GhaleU de Charlanot halfway, to the (3 hrs.) H^t9l Ptan-Pras.
To the *Glaoier des Bossons, an interesting walk (3 hrs. there
and back). We may either take the electric railway (p. 288) to (2 V^ M. ;
8 min.) Les Bossons and begin the walk there; or follow the Geneva
road to the W. past the (1V2 M.) Pension du Lac, cross the Arve
by the (*/« M.) Pont de Perralotaz, diverge to the left at the hamlet
of Les Bossons by a good path, and ascend to (V4 hr.) the PaviUon
on the left moraine (about 4430 ft ; rfmts.). Fine view of the glacier,
which has ice-needles rising to the height of 200 ft, while It is
overshadowed by the Mont Blanc du Tacul (13,940 ft). On the
left rise the Aiguilles du Midi (12,608 ft) and du Plnn (12,050 ft).
We descend to the grotto hewn in the glacier (85 yds. long, inter-
esting; adm. and lights 1 fr.) and cross the glacier (guide neces-
sary, 2fr., from Chamonix 6 fr.) to the ('/t l^r*) top of the right
lateral moraine (rfmt. hut). Descending over debris and through
wood, we join the path to the Pierre-Poiutue (see below ; to Cha-
monix 1 hr.).
The *Pierr6-Poiata9 (6720 ft) is another favourite poini (bridle-
path , 3 hrs. ; horse 8 fr. ; guide, 8 f?,, uau9Ce98ary). On the left
Munt Blanc, (CHAMONIX. IV. Route 46. 299
bank of the Arve we pass the hamlets of Les Praz- Conduits. 1^«
Barats, and (V4 hr.) Les I'issoura; here we turn to the left, aseeud
through wood ou the right bank of the brook to the (25 min.) Cas-
cade du Dard (can tine), a fine double fall, and then cross the broad
stony bed of the Nant des Pklerins. (After 10 min. the path to the
Glacier des Bossons diverges to the right; see above.) We ascend
to the left in zigzags on the side of a wild valley, through which
the Nant'Blanc dashes over rocks, to the ('/4 hr.) Chalet de la
Para (5265 ft; rfmts.) and the (l^/j hr.) Pavilion de la Pierre-
Pointue (restaurant, d^j. 3^/2 fr.), on the brink of the huge Glacier
des Bossons, with its fine ice-fall. Opposite, apparently quite near,
rise Mont Blanc, the Dome du Gouter, the Aiguille du Gouter, etc. ;
also a superb view to the N. and W.
An interesting point is the AiguiUe d* la Tour (7565 ft.) , whieh com-
mands the best survey of the Glacier des Bossons (1 hr., guide desirable;
ascend to the left by the pavilion). — The Pierre-ik-1'Eohelle (7B10 ft.) is
another fine point (il/4 hr. ; guide advisable). The narrow path (route
to Mont Blanc, see p. 900) leads by the pavilion to the right, round an
angle of rock, and ascends to the brink of the Glacier des Bossons (where
falling stones are sometimes dangerous). Admirable view of the riven ice-
masses of the glacier; above them, the Aiguille du Goiiter, the Dome du
Goiiter, the Bosses du Dromadaire, and the highestpeak of Mont Blanc ;
in the foreground are the Qrandt-Mulets (see p. 900), 21/2 hrs. distant
(guide necessary). — The Aiguille du Midi (13,o06 ft.) may be ascended
from the Pierre - Pointue via the Pierre -a -rEehelle and the Col 4u Midi
(11^660 ft.; refttge-hut) in about 8V3 hrs. (guide fiO fr.); difficult. The
*View is very fine. The descent may be made by the VaUie Blameke
and the Oletcier du Giant to the Col du Giant (p. 300). — A pleasant way
back from the Pierre-Pointue is by the Plan de VAiguilU (II/2 hr. ; no
defined path); see below.
A similar view, even finer than from the Pierre-Pointue, is ob-
tained from the *Plan de I'Aigiiille (7227 ft.). 3 hrs. from Cha-
monix. The bridle-path diverges to the left beyond Les Tissours
(see above), and ascends in numerous windings through wood and
pastures , past the Chalet du Plan de V Aiguille (restaurant, with
beds), to a clear bluish-green lake, situated at the foot of the stu-
pendous moraine of the Glacier de Blaitiere, dominated by the Aig.
du Plan and Aig. du Midi (see above).
Kent Blano (15,782 ft.), the monarch of the Alps, has since
1860 formed the boundary between France and Italy. It is com-
posed chiefly of granite, and is shrouded with a stupendous mantly
of perpetual snow. It was ascended for the first time in 1786 be
the guide Jacques Balmat, and by Dr. Paccard the same year. In
17S7 the ascent was made by the naturalist H. B. de Saussure (p. 296)
with eightecTi guides; in 1825 by Dr. E. Clarke and Captain Sher-
will, and in 1827 by Mr.' Auldjo. In summer the ascent is now
made almost daily, but travellers are cautioned against attempting
It in foggy or stermy weather, as fatal accidents have frequently
occurred. On the top is the Observatory of Dr, Janssen, built in
1893, which rests entirely upon the snow (adm. to kitchen only).
The view from the summit is unsatisfactory in the ordinary sense.
300 TV. Route 45. MONT BLANC.
Owing to their great distance, all objects appear indistinct ; even
in the clearest weather we can descry the outlines only of the great
chains, the Swiss Alps, the Jura, and the Apennines.
According to the regulations of the guides at Ohamoniz, one traveller
ascending Mont Blanc requires two guides (100 fr. each) and one porter
(50 fr.), each additional member of the party one guide more \ but for
experienced mountaineers one guide and one porter suffice. When the
^hotel bill* on the Grands-Mulets amd other items are added, the minimum
cost of the ascent usually comes to 220-250 fr. for one person. — The
usual ascent is via the Grands-Mulets, but in 1898 a new route was dis-
covered via Les Houches and the Tete-Bousse (see below).
Fkoh Chamoniz the expedition usually takes three days. On the
first day travellers ascend by the Pavilion de la Pierre- Pointue (p. 299)
and the Olacier des Bostons^ where the difficulty begins, to the (6-7 hrs.)
Orands-Kulete (10,030 ft.). The Hotel (9908), at the W. base of the rocks,
contains eight rooms (bed 12, B. 3, d^j.4, D. 6, vin ordinaire 4fr. ; D.
for guide 21/2 fr., incl. wine, bed free; food and wine often poor). On
the second day they proceed by the (3 hrs.) Petit-Plaieau to the (1 hr.)
Orand-Plateau (12,900 ft.), bear to the right (the usual route), and ascend
by the Col du D6me (Dome du Ooilter, to the right, see below) to the
(U/s hr.) Gabane Vallot (14,312 ft. ; 9 beds), near the Vallot Obiervatcrf
(adm. by special permission only), and thence by the Bosses du Droma-
daire (14,950 ft.) and the Toumette (15,325 ft.) to the (11/2-2 hrs.) summit
(Calotte)^ with the Janssen Observettory (p. 299). — Another route (longer,
but safer) leads to the left from the Orand-Plateau by the Gorridor^ the
Mur de la CdUy the Rockers Rouges (with the Cabane Janssem^ 14,774 ft.),
and the Petits MuleU (15,390 ft.) to the (3-4 hrs.) summit.
From Lbs Houchiss (p. 301), about 12 hrs.' Riding is practieable to
the (6 hrs.) plateau of the Tete-Bousse The new bridle-path leads via
the (2 hrs.) Pavilion de Bellevue (p, 301), the (1 hr.) Mont Lacha* (6925 ft.),
the arete to the £. of the Rognes (8840 ft.), and the Olacier de Ttte-Bousse
to the (31/2 ^rs.) GhMet-H6Ul du Tiie-Rousse (10,300 ft. ; D. 4fr., inel. wine).
We then toil up a Ions couloir (step - cutting necessary; falling stones
dangerous) to the (21/4-3 hrs.) (3abane (12,530 ft.) on the 8. £. side of the
Aiguille du GoUter (12,610 ft.) ; thence by the Ddme du GoUier to the (21/2 brs.)
Cabane Vallot (see above).
From St. Osrvais (p. 287) also the ascent is made vi& the Pavilion de
Bellevue^ which is reached in 31/2 brs. via Bionnay and Bionnetssaj/ .
From Courhaybur (p. {X)5), about 14 hrs. : by the Combal Lake (p. 304),
the Olacier de Miage^ and the (71/2 hrs. from Courmayeur) Cabane du D6me
(10,500 ft. ; spend night), at the foot of the Aig. Orise; thence across the
Olacier du D6me and the W. arete of the B6me du Oodter to the (5-7 hrs.)
Cabane Vallot and the (1V2~2 hrs.) Summit. — Another route leads via the
Combal Lake and across the Olacier de Miage and Olacier du Mont- Blanc
to the (7-8 hrs.) R^vgio QuinUno Sella (10,194 ft.), on the Bother du Mont-
BlanCy whence the top is attained in 7 hrs. ; but this route is exposed to
falling stones and should be avoided on the descent. — The ascent by
the Olaciers du Brouillard and du Fresnay^ as well as the direct aseent
by the Olacier dt la BrenvOy are very difficult and dangerous.
The Aifuille du Ooutev (12,610 ft. ; guide 40 fr.) and the Dtoie du
Ooiiter (14,210 ft. ; 60 fr.) may be ascended in 3 and 41/3 hrs. from the
Grands-Mulets or the TSte-Rousse.
From Ghamonix to Sixt vi& the' Col du Brivent and the Ool ^Anteme^ see
p. 294; via the Buet^ see p. 294; to the Argentihre Olacier y see p. 907.
From Chamokix to Courmateur ovbr the Col du G^amt, 12-13 hrs.,
a trying glacier- pass, but most interesting, and not difficult for adepts
(guide 50, porter 30 fr.). After a night at the Hdtel du Montanveri (p. 100)
we traverse the upper part of the Mer de Olace and the Oiaeier du Taculy
or du Ofant (crevasses). On the right we pass the Mont BUmc du Tacul
(13,940 ft.), and on the left the Aiguille or Dent dU Oiant (13,170fl.), and in
about 6 hrs. reach the Gpl duOiant (11,060 ft,), between fhe Gtmmd flam-
PAVILLQN 0E BELLKVtE. IV, Route IB. 301
beau (11,660 ft-X on the rights and the Aiguilles Jfarbries (11,616 ft.) on the
left, with a refuge (inn in summer) and splendid view. We then descend
almost perpendicular rocks on the S. side to the (2 hrs.) Paifillon <fu Mont
Frhy (p.30&) and (IVa hr.) Courmayeur.
Othjer Fassbs ovbr thb Momt Blakc Ramob from Chamonix to Cour-
mayeur (all very difficult, and for thorough adepts only): the Col de'Triolet
(12,110 ft.)., between the Aig. de Triolet and the Points habelle; the Col de
TalAfre (11,790 ft.), between the Aig, de Triolet and the Aig. de Tal^re
(guide 50 fr.) ; the Col de Pierre Joseph (11.410 ft.), to the S. of the Aig.
de TaU/re (guide 60 fr.); the Col des Hirondellea (11,370 ft.), between the
Petites and the Orandes Jorasses (guide 60 fr.) : the Col de Hitige (11,165 ft. ^
refuge - hut), to the S. W. of the Aig. de Bionnatsay and the D6me de
Miage (13,150 ft. ^ guide 60 fr.).
46. From Chamonix to Courmayeur vid the Col du
Bonhomme and Col de la Seigne. Tour of Mont Blanc.
The Tour of Mont Blasc is an easy and interesting expedition. To
complete the eireuit of Mont Blanc we may reach Martigny over the Col
Ferret (p. 305) or the Oreat St. Bernard, and return to Chamonix over the
Col de Balme (p. 311) or the Tete-Nolre (p. 306). — A passport will be found
eoDYenient in satisfying the enquiries of the French and Italian custom-
house officers. — The Tarei^aise may also be reached from this route
with the aid of the diligence plying between Les Chapieux and Bourg-St>
Mauriee (pp. 203, 3^1),
Bridle Path. Three days: 1st, by the Pavilion de Bellevue to Conta-
mimes, 6 hrs. (or to Kant-Borrant, 78/4 hrs.); 3nd, to Mottets from Nant-
Borrant, 51/3 hrs. by the Col des Fours, or 6^/2 hrs. via Les Chapieux;
Srd^ to Courmayeur, 6V2 brs. Or, omitting the Pav. de Bellevue, we
may drive from Chamonix to St. Gervais (one-horse carr. 18, two-horse
35 fr.), in which ease Les Chapieux is easily reached on 'the first day and
Courmayeur on the second. — Guide (not needed by good walkers in
fine weather, but advisable over the Col des Fours) from Chamonix to
Courmayeur in two days 30, in three days 24 fr. •, return-fee 16 fr. extra.
We follow the Geneva road (p. 298) from Chamonix to (3V« M.)
the hamlet of La Orias , turn to the left at a large iron cross , and
cross the deep bed of the Nawt de la Qriaz to (^4 M.) Les Houchea
(Hot. du Glacier, plain) ^ with a picturesquely situated church.
Electric tramway thus far ; see p. 288. Beyond the church and the
brook (guide- post) a tolerable footpath (hardly to be mistaken)
diverges to the left, enters the (*/« hr.) wooded ravine to the right,
and ascends in IVs hr. to the Favillon de Bellevue (5840ft.) , a
rustic inn on a saddle of Mont Lackat (see below), affording a su-
perb ♦View (best by evening-light) of the Chamonix Valley as far as
the Col de Balme, the Mont Blanc range, and the valley of the Arve.
Another path (easier at first, but disagreeable after rain) diverges by
a cross 8 min. beyond Les Houehes, and ascends in IV2 br. to the Col de
▼oia (5495 ft. ; Inn closed ; simple refreshments in the chalet), a depression
between Mont Laehat (6926 ft.) and the Prarion (p. 387), 30 min. to the W.
of the Pavilion de Bellevue , with a fine view , but inferior to that from
the Bellevue. Descent on the right bank of the stream by Bionnassap to
BUrnnay (3190 ft.), on the road from St. Gervais to Contamines.
From the Pavilion de Bellevue the path descends to the S. over
pastures, with the Aiguille de Bionnatsay (13,340 ft.) and the new
30^ IV. Route 46. L1&S OONfAMlNlBS* Prom Chamonix
route to Mont Blanc (p. 300) on the left. We cross th« stream issuing
from the Glacier de Bionnasaay^ and beyond the Chalets de la Pierre
follow a tolerable bridle-path, descending on the left side of the
valley to (IV4 hr.) Champel, where it turns to the left by the fountain.
We descend rapidly., enjoying a fine view of the wooded and well
cultivated Afow/:^'oie Valley, bounded on the W. by the slopes of 3!f<m<
Joly (see below), with the Mont Rousselette (7845 ft.) in the back-
ground, while to the E., above the green lower hills, peep several of
the W. snow-peaks of th« Mont Blanc group {Aig. du IVieoty de
Tr^latete, etc.). Beyond (18 min.) La Villette the path (6 min).
joins the road from St Gervais (p. 287) , which we follow to the
left, crossing the Torrent de Miage just before the hamlet of Trease.
To the right , on the slope of Mont Joly , stands the church of
St. Nicolas-de-Veroce. The road then leads high on the right bank
of the Bon < Nant to La Chapelle, Chaanpeletf and (i hr.) —
Les Oontamines-Bur-St-GervalB (3843 ft. ; Hotel Unions Hot. du
Bonhomme, both very fair), a large village with a handsome church.
Instead of deseending through the valley of the Bionnattay^ we nuky
ascend to the right at the end of tbe Glacier de BionnasAay (see above) to
the Chalet* de Tricot and the (21/2-3 hrs. from the Pav. de Bellevue) Gol
de Trioot (7(XX)ft. •, small inn), between the Pointe de Tricot and Mont
Vorcusay. We then descend to the chalets ■ of Mioffe (magnifieent view)
and follow the left bank of the Miage to Tresse^ on. the road to CSX/a hra.)
Contamines (see above ; guide from Chamonix 15 fr.).
The ^Hont Joly (8390 ft.) is ascended from^S^. NU»leu (see above) without
difficulty In 4 hrs. (guide 6 fr. ^ inn s/4 hr. from the top), via the (9 tars.)
Pavilion du Mont Joly (restaurant). Splendid view of Mont Blanel Ascent
from Migive^ see p. 335. — The Pavilion de TrilaiHe (see below) is more
easily reached from Gontamines than from Nant-Borrant (path ascending
to the left, 30 min. above Contamines). From Ck)ntamine8.by the Pavilion
de Trelatete to Nant-Borrant, 31/3 hrs., interesting. — From Contamines to
St. OervaiSy see p. 387^ over the Col du Joly to Beauforty see p. 337.
Beyond Contamines the road descends to the Bon^Nant, and
ends at (1 hr.) the bridge which crosses to the pilgrtmage-chapel of
Notre-Dame-de^la-Oorge. The bridle-path now ascends steeply to
the left, passing frequent traces of glacier-striation. Then through
wood, past two waterfalls, and across the (Vt hr»)- deep gorge of the
Bon-Nant, to the (10 min.) ChAletB of Nant-Bornat (4780ft. ; *lnn\
R. 3-4, D. 3 i^.). We cross the wooden bridge beyond them , and
ascend on the left bank. On the left the s^racs of the large Oladtr
de Trdlatete are visible ; looking back , we survey the valley as far
as the Aiguille de Varens (p. 287).
From Nant-Borrant, or better from Contamines (see above), we nay
reach Mottets or the Col de la Seigne in 7 or 81 /2 hrs. via the Ool da Xoat
Tondn (9500 ft.), trying, but without danger (guide 30 fr.). From Nant-
Borrant we ascend to the left (Ane waterfalls) to the (U/a br.) PavUlon de
TrilatHe (6463 ft. ; inn), which overlooks the TrilatSte Glacier, and skirt
the slopes on the E. side of the glacier. Anally crossing it to the pass,
between Mt. Tondu (10,485 ft.) on tbe right, and the PoinU de la LanehetU
(10,130 ft.) on (he left (beautiful view, especially from a height on the left).
We may either descend to the right across the Oladerde la Lanchette to
Mottets (p. 304), or to the left over shelving rocks and across the Otaeier det
Laneettet or des Olaeiers to the Col de la Seigne (p. 904). — Over the Gol i«Tr«-
io Caurmdyeur. COL bSlS FOVRS. IV. JBowf* 46, d03
iatAte (11,424 ft.) to the Glacier Oe VAlUe-Bianehe and the Gombdl Lake
(p. 904), very diffieult (2 guides, 60 fr. each).
We next reach (50min.) the Chalet ^ la Balme (5627 ft.), a small
inn, at the head of the Montjoie Valley.
In doubtful weather, or late in the evening, a guide should be taken
from this point to the top of the pass (3fr.); but, as guides are not
always to be had here , it is safer to engage one at Gontaraiines (to the Col
du Bonhomme 6-8, .Col des Fours 6-8, Les ChapieuX 8-10, Les Mottets
10-12 fr., the higher fees being charged when the guide cannot return the
sanae day). If the guide be taken to the Col du Bonhomme only^ his atten-
dance should be required as far as the highest point (Croix du Bonhomme,
see below. Mule from Nant-Borrant to the Croix 8 fr. (bargaining advisable).
The path, Indicated by stakes, ascends wild, stony slopes, passing
a waterfall on the left, to the (20 min.) Plan Jovet (6435 ft.), with a
few huts.
Besides the route over the Col des Fours (see below), a shorter, but more
difficult routci leads to Les Mottets over the Col oT Enclave (8810 ft.), be-
tween the Mont Tondu and the T^te d^Enclave (4-41/2 hrs. from Nant-Borrftnt).
On the (Vi hr.) Plan des Dames (6745 ft.) rises a conical heap of
stones, where a lady is said to ha^e perished in a snow-storm.
At the end of the valley (20 min.) the path ascends the slope to the
right, and (25 min.) reaches the Col da Bonhomme (7680 ft. ; refuge
hut), whence we look down into the desolate valley of the Oitte.
A mule-path descends into this basin, passes the lonely, Ghatet de la Sauee^
and follows the left bank of the brook of the same name to (2 hrs.) the
chalets of La Gitte (5490 ft.) and to Beaufort (p. 327; 31/2 hrs. more).
Guide to La Gitte advisable.
Two curious rocks, the Tete du Bonhomme and the Femme du
Bonhomme, here tower aloft, like two ruined castles. Beyond
these we follow the rocky slope to the left (path indicated by stakes),
past a copious spring (good resting-place), and finally ascend to
(40 min.) the Col de la Croix du fionhomme (8147 ft.), where a
splendid view of the Tarentaise Alps is obtained, with the fine snow-
pyramid of Mont Pourri (12,428 ft.) rising in the centre. The route
divides here. In a straight direction the path descends to(l'/4 hr.) —
Lei Chapieux or Chapiu (4950 ft. ; *Soleil ; Hot. des Voya-
gettrs), an Alpine hamlet in the Val des Olaciers, 1^/4 hr. below
Les Mottets (p. 204).
Frou Lbs Chapibdx to Boubg-St-Mauricb (Tarentaise), 91/2 M.,
omnibus daily in summer in 3 hrs. (fare IV2 fr-^ in the reverse direction
2V« ftf.). The road descends the valley of the lorrent des Olaoien, at
first threading a defile between the Olavetta (8010 ft,) to the left and the
TerroBse (9480 ft.) to the right. — 2V4 M. Le Crey (4790 ft.). - 51/2 M.
Bonneval-les- Bains (p. 331). — 91/2 M. Bourg-St-Maurice^ see p. 331.
From Les Chapieuic to Beaufort (AlbertviUe), see p. 3^.
The direct route to Les Mottets ascends from the Croix du Bon-
homme to the left, across snow (guide advisable for less experienced
travellers), to the (35 min.) Col des Tours (8S90 ft.; refuge-hut),
to the right of which is the Pdinte des Fours (8920 ft.; 5 min.),
a splendid point of view. Then a steep and rough descent over slate-
detritus and pastures to (IV4 hr.) a group of chalets (6570 ft.)
and the (20 min.) Chalets des Olaciers (to Les Chapieux, see above).
304 IV. Route 46. LAO DK COHfiAt. Pram Ckavwnix
We descend to the left, cross the bridge (5840 ft), and ascend the
left bank to (Vj hr.) the houses of —
Let Motteti (6225 ft. ; Mme. Forfs Inn, R. 3-4V2, B. 2, d<j. 31/2,
D. 4 fr. ; mule to the Col de la Seigne 6 fr.), at the head of the Vol dts
Glaciers. To the N.E. rises the AiguiUe des Glaciers (12,580 ft),
with the Glacier des Glaciers,
Route to Les Gontamines over the Col du Mont Tondu , see p. 902 ■, to
the Plan Jovet over the Col iTEnckne, see p. 903.
A bridle-path ascends hence in zigzags to the (l^^hr.) *0ol de
la Seigne (8240 ft ; refuge-hut of the Chasseurs Alpins), the frontier
between France and Italy. Magnificent view of the Allte Blanehe,
an Alpine valley several miles long, bounded on the left by the
tremendous precipices of the Mont Blanc chain.
.To the left of the pass rise the Aig. dea Glacier* (12,680 ft.) and Aig,
de Trilattie (12,890 ft.), then the imposing snowy dome of Mont Blanc,
borne by the huge buttresses of the Roeher du Mont Blanc, a<yoined by the
Mont Maudit; farther on, to the left of the Aig, de VEstelette, towers the bold
and isolated Aig. Blanche de PHeret (18,482 ft.). Farther to the right, in
the baekground , appear the Mt. Velan, Grand Combin, ete.
A path to the S.E. of the Col de la Seigne leads to the Glacier du
Breuil, whenee we may ascend the Pointe de L^ohaud or Montagne de la
Seigne (3 hrs. ; 10,256 ft.) , which commands a magnificent view. Diffi-
cult paths descend hence to (3 hrs.) Les Hottets (see above)^ by theCW
du Breuil (9520 ft.) and the Col de VOueillon (about 8870 ft.). — Another path
from the Col de la Seigne leads to the (1 hr.) Col de» Chavannes (8660 ft.),
whence we may reach the road to the Little St. Bernard (p, 906) at (21/4 hrs.)
Pont-Serrant , via the Vallon des Chavannes. — The Potnte de Liehattd (see
above) is ascended in 2 hrs. from the Col des Chavannes by the S. arStes.
Beyond the pass we descend over snow, debris, and finally pas-
tures, to the {^/ihr.) upper (7230ft.) and (25 min.) lower Chalets
de r All ffe- Blanche (7135 ft), at the end of a level stretch. We
round the hill to the right, cross the brook, and descend, en-
joying a splendid view of the imposing Glacier de V AlUe- Blanche
and the Aiguille de TrtUatetCj to a second level reach of the valley,
at the end of which (Vihr.) lies the green Lao de Combal (6365 ft),
bounded on the N. by the huge moraine of the Glacier de Mia^e.
Near a sluice at the lower end of the lake (10 min.) we cross the
Doire or Dora, which issues from the lake, and descend along
the moraine through a wild ravine , filled with boulders. After 40
min. the Doire is again crossed. The valley , now called Vol Veni,
expands. We pass (10 min.) the Cantinede laVisaille (5420ft. ; beds),
with a fine view of the Jorasses and the tooth-like Dent du G^ant, etc.
The path descends through wood and pastures , passing (V4 hr.)
the Chalet de Purtud (4945 ft. ; cantine, on the left bank). On the
left is the fine Glacier de la Brenva, which once filled the whole
valley. 20 min. Chalet de Notre- Dame-de- Berrier{ASl 6 ft,) ; a little
farther on, to the left, beyond the wood , which has suffered from
avalanches , is the Aiguille de P^teret with the snowy summit of
Mont Blanc towering above it ; on the right the Pavilion du Mont
Fr% (p. 305) and the Dent du G^ant Beyond the chapel of Notre-
Dame-de-GuMson or de Berrier (4710 ft), a few minutes farther
to Cowrmaymr. COURMAYEUR. IV, Route 46. 305
on, the path rounds an angle of rock, overlooking the village of
Eintrevea to the left, at the mouth of the Vol Ferret (see below), and
then descends to theDoire, which unites here with theDoire du Val
Ferret and takes the name of Dora Baltea, Opposite the little sulphur
baths of La Sojce (Vt^J*-) ^® cross the Dora, pass the (V4 hr.) Hd-
tel du Hont" Blanc (see below), and in lOmin. more reach —
Oonrmayenr. — •H6tbl Botal, •Angblo, at each R. 4-6, B. I1/2, dej.
31/a, D. 5 fr. ; •Ukioh; •Mont-Blahc, 1/2 M. to the N. of the village. —
Restaurant Savoie^ with bedrooms. — Ca/i du Mont-Blane, — Etablissement
EydrotMrapique Tavemier^ with cafe-restaurant. — As at Ghamonix, there
is a society of guides here with similar regulations (see p. 395). L. and
/. Promeniy J. Petigax^ J. Oadin^ L. Bertholliery F.^ /., and L, Croux^ A.
Feno'lleiy Cis. QUier^ P. and L. Revel are recommended.
Cotirmayeur (4015 ft), a considerable village , with mineral
springs , beautifully situated at the head of the Aosta Valley , is
much frequented by Italians in summer. Though higher than Oha-
monix , its climate is warmer and the vegetation far richer. The
highest peak of Mont Blanc is concealed from Gourmayeur by the
Mont Ch^tif {7eS6 ft.) , but is seen from the Pr^-St-Didier road,
Vj M. to the S.
From the hamlet of Dolonne, opposite Gourmayeur, we obtain an ex-
cellent survey of the enormous precipices of the Jorasses and the glacier
of that name. — A bridle-path (guide unnecessary) leads to the W. from
Dolonne to the (3 hrs.) Col de CbAoonri (6430 ft.), on the S.W. side of
Mont ChiUf (7685 ft. ; ascent 1 hr.). Return by the Val Veni, see p. 304.
The *mont de la Saze (7735 ft. \ 3 hrs. ; guide, 6 fr., unnecessary) affords
a complete view of the S.E. side of Mont Blanc with its numerous gla-
eiers, from the Gol de la Seigne to the Gol Ferrety the Dent du Gdant and
the Jorasses being prominent. A good bridle-path ascends from Gour-
mayeur, vi& La Saxe (see above) and Villair^ to the (2 hrs.) Chalets du Pri
(6480 ft.) and the (1 hr.) nearer summit. The descent may be made past
the Chalets du Leuchi into the Val Ferret.
The *Orammont (8980 ft.) is one of the finest points of view in the
neighbourhood of Gourmayeur. The ascent is made more conveniently
from Pri - St - Didier (p. dOiS) in 3V2-4 hrs. (guide unnecessary for the
experienced). We follow the Little St. Bernard road as far as the first
tunnel (30 min.), then ascend to the right past (2 hrs.) Chanton (5970 ft.) to
the (I1/2 hr.) summit. About 5 min. below the top is a refuge-hut of the
I. A. G. — This route is joined by a bridle-path whieh leaves the road at
Elevaz, 1 hr. from Fr^-St-Didier, beyond the second tunnel.
The ascent of the Onmdet JorMwea (13,796 ft. •, 13-14 hrs. ; two guides,
70 fr. each) is a diffiei:|lt expedition , with the risk of avalanches. We
ascend the Val Ferrety cross the Doire beyond £i»»<r^««< (see above), and pro-
ceed past the chalets oiMayen (4944 ft.) at first through wood and pastures,
afterwards over a glacier and up steep rocks (very toilsome; a rope is
placed to aid climbers) to the (0I/2-6 hrs.) Cabane des Orandes - Jorasses
(9185 ft.) of the I. A. G. , where the night is spent. A farther climb of
5-6 hrs. up the Rocher du Reposoir brings us to the summit.
To Ghamonix ovbb the Gol du Q^akt (comp. p. 300), 14 hrs. (guide 4C(,
porter 35 fr., in two days 50 and 90 fr. ; two guides, or a guide and a
porter required). Interesting excursion (bridle-path, 31/3 hrs.) to the Pavil-
ion du Xont Fr^ty (7130 ft. ; restaurant ; fine view) ; thence to the Col du Oiant
(11,060 ft.), with the new Mtfugio Torino (inn in summer), a steep ascent
of 8I/3 hrs. (guide to the Pavilion 6 fr., unnecessary; to the pass and
back 12, in two days 30 fr.). — Ascent of the Aiguille or Dent du Giant
(13,170 ft. ; 5-7 hrs. from the Gol du Geant), very difficult. — From the
col to the Montanvert^ 4-5 hrs. ; thence to Ghamonix , II/3 hr. — Ascent of
Mont Blanc (guide 100 fr.), see p. 300.f
Baedeker. Southern France. 4th Edit. ^0
306 lV,Boute46. PETIT-ST-BBRNARD.
To Maktiony over the Col Fbrbbt (8410 ft.), ISVshrs., fatiguing and
somewhat uninteresting. This is the shortest route to Switzerland (see
Baedeker''» Switzerland). — To Aoiia , omnibus in 4 hrs. , see Baedeitr"'*
SwiUerland or Northern Italf.
Ilo BouBO - St - Maurice bt the Little St. Bbbnard., 36 M. ; earriage
road \ 9-10 hrs.* walk by short-cuts In summer a diligence plies daily from
Gourmayeur to the Hospice of the Little St. Bernard in 6 hrs., and another
thence to Bourg- St- Maurice in 8 hrs. — The road descends in windings to
the Doire and enters a wooded gorge on its left bank. At (50 min. from
Courmayeur) Palisieux we cross to the right bank. Pedestrians will find
the old road preferable on account of the view ; it keeps along the height
to the left, and joins the other road beyond —
21/2 M. Pri-St-Didiar (3250 ft.; *H6tel deVUnivers; Couronne), a vil-
lage with baths. We now diverge to the right from the road to (25 M.)
Aosta^ which continues to follow the valley of the Doire (see £€u-
deker^s Northern Italy). The road ascends to the S.W. in the valley of
the ThuiU^ where it passes through two tunnels. At Balme we cross the
Thuile. — At (81/2 M.) La Thnile (4725 ft. ; HM. National) we have a view
of the great glacier of the Rutor or Rtiitor. The stream descending
from it forms the fine *G<Mcade» of the Rutor^ about 2 hrs. from the village.
The Tite du Rutor or Ruitor (11,446 ft.; p. 332) may be ascended from
La Thuile (7 hrs.; guide 40 fr. ) 'by a route passing two refuge -huts,
one 031 /2 hrs.) at a height of 8085 ft. , the other (10,660 ft.) on the (3oI
du Butor. — The road beyond La Thuile makes numerous curves (short-
cuts for walkers) and crosses the Thuile thrice , the second time at
(31/2 M.) Pont-Serrant (5415 ft.) by a bridge 100 ft. in height. Vallon des
Chavannes, etc., see p. 304. — We next proceed past the Gantine des Eaux-
Rou$ses (6740 ft.) and the Lac de Vemey (6960 ft.) to the (41/2 M.) Ool du Petlt-
St-Bemard (7176 ft.). The boundary between France and Italy is on the
8. side, s/^ M. beyond the pass, and near a Hoipiee (7060 ft.) affording fair
quarters (simple fare free , better dishes at a fixed tariff). — The Mt. Va-
laisan or Ohardonney (9445 ft.), 2 hrs. to the S.E., the Mt. Belvidire (8666 fl.),
11/2 hr. to the N.E. , and the LancOtranlette (9606 ft.), 2Va-3 hrs. to the
N. W., all afford admirable views of the Mont Blanc chain. — The road
now descends gradually, overlooking the beautiful upper valley of the
Uhre (Tarentaise^ p. 3%) and the Savoy Mts. the whole way. The wide
curves of the carriage-road are cut off by an old Roman road, to the right,
on which lies St. Germain (4180 ft.). -— 34 M. Sieg^ on the road to Tignes
(p. 331) , is the first place of importance on the carriage-route. — 36 M.
Bourg-St-Mauriee (see p. 331).
47. From Chamonix to the Valais.
Comp. Maps^ pp. 294y 28€.
Two Roads, identical as far as (41/4 brs.) Gh&telard, and a Bridle
Path connect the valley of Chamonix with the Valais. From Ghfttelard,
one road leads to the right via the T^te-Noire to (41/4 hrs.) Martigny, and
the other to the left by Finhaut and Salvan to (4 hrs.) Vernayaz. The
former road is the more frequented, but is less interesting than the latter,
which affords finer and more varied views. The bridle-path over the C!ol
de Balme, on the other hand, though less interesting on the whole , com-
mands a superb view of the valley of Chamonix and Mont Blanc. —
Swiss time is 56 min. in advance of French time.
a. From Chamonix to Martigny by the T6te- Noire.
26 M. Road, traversed by passengers with circular -tickets from C!ha-
monix. Omnibus (with 3-4 seats) in 9-10 hrs. ; fare 16 fr. and fee to the
driver. Tickets are taken at the Bureau des Messageries at Chamonix,
near the Hotel Imperial; at Martigny in the Rue des Hdtels. Carriage
AROfiNTIBRE. IV. Route 47. 307
for 1 or 2 pers. 40, 3 pers. 50, 4 pers. 60 fr. ; return, 70, 75, or 110 fr. An
early start is necessary if the traveller does not mean to break his
journey or sleep at Hartigny. *- Guide (12 fr.) for either route of course
superfluous. Lngga«e may be sent on by arrangement with the Messa-
geries (to Martigny 8fr.)
Chamonix, see p. 294. — The road ascends the valley and beyond
Le Chable (p. 297) crosses the Arve. — 7« hr. Les Praz-d'en-Haut
(Chalet des Praz ; National, both very fair). The village of Lea Bom
and the Glacier dea Boia are left on the right. -- At (Vj hr.) Lea
Tinea (Hdt. a la Mer de G-lace) a path to the Chapeau diverges to the
right (p. 297). The road ascends through a wooded defile to (V4 hr.)
Lavancher (3848 ft. ; H6t.-Pens. Beau-S4jour, to the right, 10 min.
above the road); to the Chapeau, see p. 297; to the Pavilion de
•iiognau, see below. — V4 hr. Les Ilea; on the opposite bank (bridge)
lies Le Joux (p. 298). — 5 min. Oraaaonnoy. — 25 min. Lea
ChcLZcUeta, where we cross the Arve/ To the left is the path to the
Fl^gere mentioned at p. 298.
V4 hr. (6 M. from Chamonix) Argentidre (3963 ft. ; *Couronne,
R. 2V2) d^j. S^l^fr.'^ *du Mont- Blanc; Bellevue, well spoken of),
a considerable village, where the huge glacier of that name descends
into the valley between the Aiguille Verte (13,540 ft) and the
AiguilU dm Chardonnet (12,540 ft.).
*01aoier d'Arfentidre. Bridle-path (guide 6, mule 6 fr.) from Argeu-
ti^re to the (2 hrs.) Pavilion de Lognan or du Chardonnet (67(X) ft. ; De-
Youassoud's Inn); 1/4 hr. higher we obtain a splendid survey of the
grand ^s^raes* of the glaeier (where ice-fractures are frequent). In 1/3 hr.
more (guide necessary) we reach the flat upper part of the glaeier, almost
free from crevasses (Mer de Olaee d* ArgenUhre). The middle of it affords
a striking view of the surrounding Aiguilles (dn Chardonnet, d^Argenti^re,
Tour-Noir, Mt. Dolent, Les Courtes, Les Droites, Aig. Verte). We may
then ascend the glacier to (3 hrs.) the Jardin d'ArgenHhre (8806 ft.), a rocky
^isiet' at the base of the Aiguille d'Argentiere, with fine flora in summer.
— A path descends to the 8.W. ftom. the Pavilion, past the chalets of
Lognan and La Pendant^ to (21/2 hrs.) Les Tines (see above).
ExcvssioHs PBOM THB Pavillok db Loovav. — AiguiUe du Chardonnet
(12,.')4Qft.), 7 hrs. (guide from Chamonix 66 fr.), and AiguilU d" ArgentVere
(12,&20 ft.), 8 hrs. (guide 65 fr.), both difficult. — To the Moktahvbrt
(p. 396) over the Col dec Orand« - Hontett (10,630 ft.), 8 hrs. with guide
(90 fr.), laborious. The summit of the col is between the Petite Aig. Verte
and the Aig. dea Orandt-Montets (10,835 ft.), at the top of the Olaeier des
Rognons. — To Courmatbur (p. 305), by the Col Dolent (11,625 ft.),
between Mont Dolent (12,540 ft.) and the Aig. de Triolet (12,715 ft.), 14 hrs.,
with guide, very difficult; descent by the Olader de Pri-de-Bar to the
chalets of the same name in the Val Ferret (p. 306). — To Orsij^rbs on
the road from the Great St. Bernard to Martigny (p. 293), over the (Uil dn
Chardonnet y 12 hrs. (guide 50 fr.), laborious, but very interesting. We
mount the steep (Glaciers d*Argentiere and du Chardonnet to (41/3 hrs.),
the Col du Chardonnet (10,910 ft.) , between the Aig. du Chardonnet and
the Aig. d^Argentiere : then cross the Qlaeier de Saleinag to the (3 hrs.)
Oabane de SaUinaz (88a0 ft.), and descend (steep and fatiguing) along the
right side of the imposing glacier-fall to Praz de Fort and (4 hrs.) Ortihres
(see Baedeker's Switzerland). — The Col d'Argentiire (11,535 ft.; 12 hrs.,
guide 60 fr.) is also very difficult. The pass, which commands a fine
view, is situated between the Tour-Noir (12,585 ft.) and the Aiguilles
Rouges du Dolent (13,036 ft.). A dangerous descent leads thence vi& the
Glacier de la Neuvaz to the chalets of La Foulp in the Val Ferret (p. 306).
20*
308 tV, Route 41. TfeTE-NOlEE. From Chamonix
From Argbmti^rb to Oksi^kbs oTer the Ool du Tour (10,762 ft.),
13-13 hrs. (guide 40 fr.), toilsome, but not really difficult for experts.
We diverge te the left from the Gol de Balme route at (36 min.) Le T&ur
(p. 311) and aseend Tsa the Glacier dm Tour to the eol, between the
Aiguille du Tour (11,615 ft.) and the TSte Blanche (11,353 ft.), both easily
eiimbed thenee. We descend to the n6y6 of the Olacier 4u Trient^ and
proceed either to the right via the Fenitre de Saleinaz (10,710 ft.) to the
Olacier and Ckibane de Saleinat; or to the left over the Col d^Crny (10,390 ft.)
to the Oabane d'Orny (see Baedeker^* Suitzerland).
Beyond the village the new road ascends to the left in bold wind-
ings. Beyond (25 min.) Trelechcanp (4593 ft. ; Hdtel des Montets)
we obtain a fine retrospect of the Glacier du Tour and the magni-
ficent Aiguille Verte. The (V4 hr.) Col des Montets (4740 ft) is the
watershed between the Rhone and the Arve.
The road now turns to the W. side of the valley and gradually
descends, 'passing the (20 min.) Hotel du Buet, 2 min. beyond
which is a finger-post indicating the way to the left to the (25 min.)
picturesque *Cascade a Berard, or a Poyaa, in a wild ravine, a
digression to which takes V2 ^^- (adm. */« ft,). Through this ravine,
the Vallee de Berard, runs the route to the Buet (10,200 fL), the
top of which is visible in the background (see p. 294). Our road
crosses the (V4hr.) Eau^ Noire and traverses a lonely valley bounded
by lofty, pine -clad mountains. Before us rises the Bel^Oiteau
(8655 ft.). Mont Blanc Is seen for the last time between the hamlet
of Le Nant and Valorciiie.
10 min. Valoroine (4232 ft.). The valley contracts. The road
descends to the Eau-Noire, which dashes over the rocks, and (5 min.)
crosses it. The (V4 hr.) Hotel de Barberine (now a gendarme station)
stands at the confluence of the two branches of the Eau-Noire. The
main branch forms a waterfall here, and a finer one Vs ^^' higher
up, to the left. We cross (V4 M.) the Eau-Noire by a bridge (3680 ft),
the boundary between France and Switzerland, pass the H^. Suite
au Chdtelard (R. 2-3, d^j. 2V2-3, D. 3V2"4fr.), and reach the
Restaurant de la Madeleine , opposite the former Hotel Royal du
Chatetard (burned in 1886), whwe the two routes to the Rhone Valley
separate: to the right, the road by the TIte-Noire to Martigny; to
the left, the road to Salvan and Vernayaz (see p. 309).
The Martigny road crosses the (V2 M.) Eau-Noire and ascends
along the wooded cliffs to the (2 M.) tunnel of La Roche Percee,
through the rocks of the Tftte-Noire. We next reach (^/g M.; from
Argentiere 3 hrs.) the Hotel de la Tite- Noire (4000 ft ; d<j. 3Vj fr.).
A wooden belvedere, on the left, 2 min. before the inn, affords a
good survey of the deep gorge of the Eau-Noir«.
A steep path descends by the hotel to the left to the (30 min.) OouAre
de la T^te-lfoixe, a ravine of the THent, with a waterfall and a natural
bridge CPont Mystirieux'). Tickets at the inn (1 fr., with guide). The
steep ascent back to the hotel requires 35-90 minutes. — A path leads direct
trom the ravine across the Eau-Noire to Finhaut (p. 309).
The road here turns to the right into the valley oi the l»rawliitg
to the Valais, FINHAUT. TV. MatUe 47. 309
Trient and asceads through flue pine-fojcest to (IVs ^•) ^^® village
of Trient (4240ft. ; *Hdt. de THent; du Midi; du Qlacier de THent),
a little beyond which the road is joined by the path from the Col
de Balme (p. 310). At the end of the valley rise9 the AiguilU du
Tour (11,615 ft.), with the fine Olacier du Trient (p. 310).
The road now ascends in steep curves to the (40 miu.) Col de la
Forclaz (4987 ft.; p. 310).. The view is limited, but IV2M. lower
down we enjoy a noble survey of the Rhone Valley as ftir as Sion.
At our feet lies Martiguy, reached in 274 hrs. by the road (p. 310), or
in I'/s hr. by the old bridle-path. — 25 M. Martigny, see p. 292.
b. From Ghamoniz to Vemayai viA Finhaut and Salvan.
Camp. Mmpy p. M8ff.
241/2 M. Diligence from Chamonix to Vernayaz^ 16 fr. Road as above
to Chatelard, thence by a route, practicable only for light vehicles, but
more picturesque than the preceding (see p. 906). Carriage for 1 or
2 pers. 45 fr.
To Le Chdtelard (12V8 M.) see pp. 307, 308; thence to Ver-
nayaz, 12 M. — The narrow road ascends to the left from the
Restaurant de la Madeleine (p. 308), partly by zigzags, for about
IV^M., turus to the right at a cross, and continues at nearly the
same level. — 2 M. Finhaut, or Fins- Hants (4060 ft.-; Hot. de
Finshauts; Beausejour; Bel-Oiseau; du Perron; du Mont-Blanc;
Mont-Flev/ri ; all good), beautifully situated (English Church Ser-
vice in summer).
A path (the beginning of whieh should be asked for) leads hence direct
to the (1 hr.) T^te-Koire Ian. It descends steeply to a wooden bridge
o\&T the £au-Noire , crosses it , ascends to the right , and passes several
houses, where^ if necessary, a boy may be found to show the way to the
HHel de la THe-N^ire <p. 306).
The Bel-Oiseau (S0B5 ft. ^ 4 hrs.), the Bdonda (7800 ft. ^ 3 hrs.), and the
Rd>arma€ (8115 ft.; 31/3 hrs.) are all easily ascended from Finhaut, with
guide. — A goodpath leads from Finhaut to the W. to (2 hrs.) the •Ool
do la Gtteiila (6380 ft.), to the S. of the Bel-Oiseau, with a splendid view
of the valley of the Barberine, Mont Blanc, the Glacier de Trient, and the
Bernese Alps (£.). The view is still better from the rocky knob of
*Six Jeur (6746 ft.), 20min. to the S. E. of the col. From the col we may
descend to Bmosson and the (U/jhr.) Cabane de Barberine (6230 ft.), the
starting-point for the ascent of the Bel-Oiseau (see above; 2 hrs.: easy),
the Fontanabran (S849 ft. ; 21/? hrs.), the Poinie des Rosses (9725 ft. ; 31/3 hrs.),
the Pic de Tanneverge (9785 ft.; 4Va hrs.), Afont Ruan (10,099ft.; 51/2 hrs.),
et^:. — To Sixt, over the Cdl de Tanneverge (p. 294), difficult.
After a short ascent and a level stretch, the road {splendid view)
descends circultously through wood and along the slope of the
hill to the (2V2M.) hamlet of Triquent (3260 ft.; *Hdt. du Mont
Rose; *Hdt. de la Dent- du- Midi). About ^/^ M. farther on it crosses
the *Ghrge8 du Triege ('buffet' at the bridge), with their picturesque
waterfalls framed with rocks and dark pines (rendered accessible by
wooden pathways; 1 fr.). The road crosses the stream, ascends grad-^
nally for *l^ M., and then descends , between interesting marks of
Racier striation, to the *Hdtel de la Oreusax. A road to the left
310 IV.li(mte47. COL DE LA FORCLAZ.
ascends to ('/g M.) Mareeotte (3280 ft. ; *H6tel des Marecottes ; Pens.
de I'Avenir; English Pension; Pens, de VEsp^rance), a charmingly
situated summer-resort.
IVg M. Salvan (3035 ft.; Orand-Hdtel de Salvan; *H6t, des
Oorgea du Triege; *BeUevue; Union; Mon Repoe), Engl. Church
Service in summer. A huge erratic hlock here ezhihits some curious
prehistoric carvings.
To the *Oorge8 du DaUey^ a good path leads in 40 min. via the hamlet
of Le» Orange* (hotel). At the end is the picturesque *Ckueade du DdHep^
on the slope facing the Rhone Valley. The finest point of view is ooj^osite
the fall. Lower down the Salanfe forms the Pissevaehe Fall (p. 393).
Via the valley of the Salanfe, to the K.W. of Salvan (good guides re-
quired), we may make the ascent of the Dent du Midi (10,696 ft. ; 8 brs.),
and of the peaks that adjoin itt (Hm« de FEU (10,434 ft.), Calhidrdle
(10,386 ft.), DentJaune (10,^57 ft.), Dotgi (10,540 ft.), etc.^ all of which are
difficult. The Dent du Midi is also ascended from Ohampery (p. 391).
From Salvan a good road , shaded hy chestnut and walnut trees
and crossing the stream ahout 50 times , descends the steep slopes
in many windings to (1 hr.; up 1 Vt hr.) Vemayaz (rail, stat., p. 292).
e. From Martigny to Chamonix Yi& the Col de Balme.
lOhrs. (6V4hrs. totheCol deBalme); carriage - road from Martigny to
1/4 hr. beyond the Col de la Forelaz or to Trient and from Le Tour to
Chamonix. Carriage from Martigny to Trient for 1-3 persons , 30 fr., 4 pers.,
40 fr. ; from Le Tour to Chamonix, with 2 horses (1-3 pers.), 16 fr. Lug-
gage, see p. 307. A guide (12 fr.) may be dispensed with. Horse or mule,
with attendant , 24 fr. The road is so bad from the Col de Balme to Le
Tour that it is better to walk. There are several inns and chalets on
the road where refreshments may be had.
Beyond Martigny we follow the Great St. Bernard road through
the long village of Martigny- Bourg to the (1*/, M.) Drance Bridge
(1630 ft.) , and (4 min.) reach the hamlet of La Croix, where the
old road to Chamonix ascends to the right Beyond (1/4 hr.) Le
Brocard the new road ascends gradually to the right. 20 min.
Lea Happea; 25 min. La Fontaine; 10 min. Sergnieux (2810 ft);
V4 hr. Le Fay. The road here takes a wide bend to the right,
which the old path cuts off. By the ('/4 hr.) Chalet de Bellevue
we enjoy a fine retrospective survey of the Rhone Valley. Then
(20 min.) Lea Chavana (restaurant) , and an ascent of 40 min. more
to the Col de la Forolac (4985 ft ; •Hotel Qay-Descombea, d^J. 3 fr. ;
Reataurant de la Fougere, plain), 3V{hrs. from Martigny. Road
to the Tete-Noire, see p. 309.
BVom the pass a nearly level path leads to the left to the (U/j hr.)
Glacier du Trient (lower end 5560 ft.), the northernmost glacier of the
Mont Blanc range (good view about V2 hr.'s climb up the left side).
After a descent of ^4 hr. the hridle-path (guiile-post) to the Col
de Balme diverges to the left from theTSte-Noireroad, and in 10 min.
crosses a bridge opposite the upper houses of Trient (p. 309). We
now ascend the meadows to the left (with the Glacier du Trient to
the left, see above) and (20 min.) cross the Nant-Noir. We follow
the right bank for about 200 paces, and then mount to the left
COL D£ BALME. JV, HouUdT. 311
in st«ep zigzags through the Forest of Magnin. After 1 hr. the path
becomes more level, passes (V4 hr.) the Chanton de VAroU (6233 ft.)
and (V4hr.) the chalets of Zerhaziere (6820 ft.), and (V2hr.;
6^/4 hrs. Arom Martigny) reaches the *Col de Balme (7220 ft jj^Hdtel
Suisse , well spoken of) , the boundary between Swltzerla d and
France. This point commands a superb view of the whol of the
Mont Blanc range : the Aiguilles du Tour, d'Argentiere, V e'te , du
Dru, des Gharmoz, and du Midi, Mont Blanc itself, and the Ddme
du Gouter; far below stretches the valley of Ohamonix as far as the
Col de Voza. On the right are the Aiguilles Rouges, to the left of
them the Br^vent, and still farther to the right the snow-clad Buet.
In the opposite direction , beyond the Col de la Forclaz , we survey
the Valais and the mountains which separate it from the Bernese
Oberland, the Gemmi, the Finsteraarhorn, Grimsel, and Furka.
A still finer *View is obtained, about 1/3 hr. to the N. W. of the inn,
from the Croix de Fer or Aiguille de Balme (7646 ft.), the last spur of the
hills which rise abruptly above the Col de Balme. From this point Mont
Blanc looks still grander; to the N. £. we see the entire chain of tne Bernese
Alps, rising like a vast white wall with countless pinnacles; and to the E.,
at our feet, lies the Tete-Koire ravine , with the Dent du Midi rising be-
yond it. The descent may be begun immediately from this point.
The path, now rough and steep, descends over pastures carpeted
with Alpine flowers. On the right flows the Arve, which rises on
the Col de Balme. — lV4hr. Le Tour (4695 ft.); carriages, see p. 310.
To the left is the flne Glacier du Tour, — About V2 M. beyond
Tour we cross the Buisme, which drains the glacier, and (1 M.) the
Arve, and soon reach Argentiere (p. 307). Continuation of the road
to Chamonix, see pp. 307, 306.
48. From Mftcon (Paris) to Modane (Turin).
157 H. B^iLWAT in 5S/4. 93/4 hrs. (fares 28 fr. 20, 19 fr. 15, 13 fr. 45c.).
This is a section of the through-route from Paris to Italy via the Mont
Cenis Tunnel , and the express-trains are provided with restaurant and
sleeping can. From Paris to Hodane, 4d0 M., in 13-18 hrs. (fares
77 fr. 50, 52 fr. 40, 34 fr. 16 e.)i to Turin, 495 M., in 16Va-21 hrs. (fares
90 fr. 75, 61 fr. 60, 40 fr. 30 c).
Mdeon, see p. 196. — Thence to (43 M.) Amb^rieu and (74 M.)
Culoz, see pp. 281-284. — Our route, which here diverges to the
right from the Geneva line, now crosses the Rhone, and at (78 M.),
Chindrieux it reaches the N. end of the ""Lao du Bourget (745 ft),
which is 10 M. long, 3 M. broad, and 475 ft. deep. To the right,
on a wooded hill projecting into the lake, is the old ch&teau
of ChdHllony ^I^M, fVom the station of Chindrieux. The train
skirts the E. bank of the beautiful blue lake, which is noted for its
'layaret', a kind of fish not unlike a mackerel. To the W. we have
a pleasing view of the Dent du Chat (p. 319), the monastery of Haute-
combe, and the old ch&teau of Bourdeau.
88Vt M. Aiz-lM-Baing, see p. 316.
312 IV.Bouteia. GHAMBl^RY. From Mdean
The wooded hill of Tresterve intercepts the view of the Lac du
Bourget. Fine view to the right. — Beyond (91 M.) Viviera the St.
Andr^-du-Gaz line (seep. 348) diverges to the right, and on the left
is seen the Dent du Nivolet with its cross (p. 313). Le Bourget
(p. 318) lies IV4 M. to the W. of Viviers.
97 M. Ohamb^ry. — Hotels. *HdT. db FRAHcia, Qua! Nexin 6, Mar
the Boulevards, R. 31/4, B. iVs^ dej- 3, D. 4, pens. 9 13, omn. 1/2 fr- ; »■•
Prikcbs, Rue de Boigne 4^ pb la Postb ist Ubtbopolb, Rue d'ltalie 9,
to the left beyond the theatre, R. from SVsi B. 1, d^j. 3, D. 31/21 pens. 8I/3;
omn. Vs fi*.: DB LA pAix , Opposite the station, for whieh it serves as
buffet, R. 3, B. 1, d^j. 3, D. 4fr.; Hot. du Commbbcb, Rue Vieille-
Monnaie 8, R. 2-3, dej. or D. 2V2 fr-; Phtit Marsbillb, unpretending.
GafiSs. Ga/i du Commerce^ Rue de Boigne 10; Baboulaty beside the
Mus^e; de la Perle^ Place St. L^ger; Ourret, Boul. de la Golonne; at the
Hot. de la Paia; (see above).
Cab*. Per drive, with one horse s/4i two horses 1 fr. ; at night (10-6)
1 and 11/4 fr. : per hour 2 or 31/4, at night 23l/s or 31 /a fr. — Tramway to
La ifotte-Servolex^ and Omnibiu to Ohalles^ see p. 313.
Post and Telegraph Offioe , on the Boulevard , near the Fontaine des
Elephants.
Baths, Rue d'ltalie 17. — Protestant Ohuroh, Rue de la Banque.
Chambery (885 ft.) is a flourishing town of 21,762 inhah. , on
the Leiste. It was formerly the capital of Savoy, as it is now of
the department of that name, which was part of the duchy ceded
to France by the treaty of 1860 together with Nice. It is the seat
of an archbishop. Like many old capitals, Chambery has a distinct
individuality, though of somewhat monotonous appearance. Its
considerable benevolent institutions are due in great part to the
munificence of General de Boigne (d. 1830), who acquired a large
fortune in India in the service of the Mahratta princes.
Turning first to the left and then to the right by the Rue de la
Gare and crossing the river, we reach the Palais de Justice, in
front of which is a statue of Ant. Favre (1557-1624), the eminent
jurist, a modern bronze by Gumery. Behind it is a Public Garden,
Opposite the Palais de Justice is the Musj^e, in a handsome
modern building (open daily , except Mon. & Frid. , 1 to 4 or o ;
to strangers also on Mon. & Frid., 10-5).
On the Ground Floor &re Miscellaneotu Collections (^hniiquiiits -., ethno-
graphy; coins*, earvings, etc.). — On the First Floor is a Ubrarp of
WfiOOvolB. (open daily except holidays, 9-12 and 2-4 or 2-5). — On the
Second Floor are Paintings^ including a few ancient works of interest.
On this side of the Place du Palais, along the bank of the Leisse,
are the Boulevards, which extend as far as the Theatre. At the be-
ginning is a Monument commemorating the first union of Savoy with
France in 1792, by Falguiere. Farther on is the Fontaine des Ele-
phants, with a statue of Gen. de Boigne (see above).
The Cathedral, near at hand on the right, dates from the 12tb'
and 15th centuries. The interior is decorated with painted imi-
tations of Flamboyant sculptures.
The Rue de Boigne, which begins at the fountain and is in part
to Modane. MONTM^LIAN. JV, Route 48. 313
bordered by lofty arcades, passes near the handsome modern Hotel
de VilU. At the end of the street, in front of the entrance to the
picturesque chateau, is a monument to Joseph and Xa/vier de
MaiBtTc (1754-1821 and 1764-1852) , by E. Dubois (1899). Of the
original Ghatb4.u, built upon an eminence and founded in the
13th cent, only three towers, a block next the town, and the late-
Gothic and Reuuissance chapel ^are left. Visitors are permitted to
ascend the round tower (fee; fine view). At the top of the approach
from the Rue du Lyc^e , near this tower, is the handsome Portail
St. Dominique (15th cent.), removed from an old convent and rebuilt
here. Behind the chateau are a small Museum and a Botanic Gar-
den. — We may return to the station by the Rue du Lyc^e, which
issues from the Place du Palais near the Boulevards.
The neighbourhood of Chambery affords many interesting walks and
excursions. Of special interest is Les Ohartnettes to the S. (1 hr. there
and back ^ adm. 1/2 fr.) , a country-house , little altered since it was the
abode of Rousseau and Mme. de Warens. — The Bains de Ohalles (1070 ft. ;
Hot. du Chdteau; de France; de Chdteaubriand ; du Centre; de V Europe;
villas and furnished apartments), di/2 M. to the £. of Chambery (omnibus
and tramway), possess mineral springs containing an unusually large
quantity of sulphate of sodium (bath 2 fr.). The Bath £Mtablishtnent is
situated in a Park, in which there is also a Casino (adm. I1/2, season-
ticket 20-40 fr.). — The ascent of the Bent da Hivolet (6095 ft. ; fine view)
takes 4^/9-5 hrs. Carriages can follow the Chitelard road as far as (8 M.)
Les Diserts, whence the ascent may be made in lV2~'^hrs. A shorter
(4 hrs.) but steeper ascent on the W. terminates in a ^cheminee\ pro-
vided with ladders. On the summit is a huge cross. — Cascade de Couz,
see p. 348.
From Chambery to Lyons via Si. Andri-le-Qaz, see p. 348; via Culoz,
see above and It. 43; to Qrenohle, see R. 57; to Albertville, see p. 327. To
the Orande Chartreuse vi& St. Beron, see p. 349.
Beyond Chambery, on the right, is Mont Qranier (6340ft.;
p. 365). 103 M. Ghigifdn- les- Marches , with the ruined castle of
Ghignin on the left.
105 M. Montm6lian($)20ft.; Bu^et; Hot. Chavoi, near the sta-
tion ; Hdt. des Voyageurs, in the town), a little town about V4M. to
the E., with a ruined castle, is the junction for Grenoble (R. 57a).
Fine view of the valley of the Is^re, which the train now ascends.
112 M. St. Pierre 'd'Albigny (H6t. de la Gare); the junction for
Albertville (p. 327). The small town (2930 inhab.) , on the right
bank of thelsere, IVsM. to the N. £., is dominated by the ruined
castle of MiolanSf a state-prison in the 16-18th centuries. — To Le
Ch&telard vi4 the Col du Fr^ne, see p. 319.
The railway to Modane turns to the right, crosses the Isere, and
enters a carved tunnel, beyond which, on the left, is a fine view of
the ch&teau of Miolans. — lli^/g M. Chaimousset^ to the left, lies
at the conflaence of the Isere and the Arc. The valley of the Arc
(the Maurienne, see p. 343) , through which the railway runs as far
as Modane, is narrow and picturesque. Though not fertile it con-
tains numerous factories and mines, which lend it a busy air.
119V{ M. Aiguebelle (1063 ft.; Union; Poste). On a projecting
314 IV, Route 48. ST. JEAN-0E-MAURIENNE. From MAcon
rock to the right once stood the castle of Charbonniere, the cradle
of the Counts of Savoy. On the same side, on the wooded mountain-
slope which we skirt, is an iron-mine. Farther on, to the left, are the
Grand' Arc (8065 ft.) and the Bellachat (8060 ft.) and between them
the Col de Bcumont (to Cevins , p. 328). Crossing the river, we
reach ( 12572 ^*) Epierre (Hdt. Andreys) and pass through a tun-
nel, beyond which to the right are the Orand-Miceau (8815 ft) and
the Orand'Cloeher or Pic du Frhfie (9210 ft. ; p. 367). — ISSVa M.
St. Avre -la 'Chambre (Hdtel Jay). To the Tarentaise over the Col
de la Madeleine, see p. 328. The Grand-Cucheron, see p. 368. —
After another tunnel we bear to the right round the Orand-Chdte-
lard (see below), and recross the Arc.
139V2 M. St. Jean-de-Manrienne (1880 ft.; Hotel de la Paix;
d' Europe; St, Qeorges; de la Oare), an old town of 3278 inhab.,
situated 72 M* to the right. The Cathedral )12th and 15th cent.),
which is externally devoid of interest, contains 43 Grothic* Stalls
(15th cent.), with an equal number of large figures in low-relief by
Mochet, a Gothic *Tabemacle in alabaster, and two episcopal tombs
(15th and I6th cent.). On the N. side of the cathedral is a fine
Cloister (15th cent.), with alabaster arcades.
H. Vuillermet, printer, in the Rue du Mus^e, poBsesses a Muttum of
Antiquities^ to which visitors are courteously admitted.
From St. Jean-de-Maurienne to Lautant^ vi& the mountains, see p. 397.
About 31/2 M. to the S.E. of St. Jean, on the right bank of the Are,
lies the village of St. Julien^ on the destructive torrent of that name. In
1896 a tunnel 325 yds. long was constructed as an escape for this torrent,
and its overflow rorms a wild and beautiful waterfall, 360 ft. high.
From St. Jbav • db-M auribkvb to St-Jeak-d'Arvbs, 16 M. A mail-car
(4 fr.) plies daily to (17 H.) 8t. 8orUn-d^ Arvet^ passing Chanibon, 1 M. to
the W. of St. Jean-d'Arrat (5065 ft. •, H&t. Arktud^ dea Tomrist4$^ both un-
pretending; guide, B. Alex), which is a good starting-point for excursions
to the AiguiUet d^Arves (p. 396) and the Orandes Rouues (p. 378). To (11-
12 hrs.) La Grave^ see p. 396. Comp. Map, p. 378.
Ascents prom St. Jban-db-Madribki^b : the Oheval Noir (p. 339-, 9 hrs.),
to the N.E.; the Perron de$ Encombrea (p. 330; 61/3*7 hrs.), to the £. •, the
Grand Chdtelard (7045 ft.; 4 hrs.), to the N.-W. ; the Pointe de VOuillon
(1990 ft. ; 7 hrs. ; riding practicable) ; and the Mont Charvin (7435 ft. ;
4Vs hrs. ; easy), to the S.W.
Beyond St. Jean we cross the Arvant, a tributary of the Arc.
The wide valley contracts to a defile, in which the line runs through
three tunnels and crosses the river thrice. On the left are the Perron
des Encombres (9278 ft.; p. 379) and Afon^ Brequin (10,480 ft.).
147 M. St. Miohel-de-Mattrienne (2330 ft.; •J7df. des Alpes;
Terminus; de la Oare) consists of two large industrial villages
(2017 inhab.). To the Ool du Galibier, see p. 397. — The line now
begins to ascend rapidly, and traverses numerous tunnels and
bridges. — 154 M, La Pros (3150 ft.).
157 M. Modane (3465 ft.; Buffet; *Hdt. International, Hdt
TermirmH, both at the station), the last French station, with the
French and Italian custom > houses (change carriages). Hence to
to Modane, MODANE. IV, Route 48. 315
(6678 M-) 2f\*rt*n, see Baedeker^ 8 Northern Italy, Italian railway
time is 55 min. in advance of French railway time. The station is
really at Lea Foumeaux, ^4 M. to the S.W. of the little town of Mo-
dane (2770 inhab.), which lies in a hollow environed, except on the
W., by lofty mountains. The valley of the Arc here bends to the
N.E. , leaving the Italian frontier on the right. The famous Mont
Cents Tunnel (see Baedeker' a Northern Italy) begins only a short
distance from the station, but about 240 ft. above it, so that the line
has to make a detour of 3 M., passing behind the town and through
two tunnels , 600 yds. and 550 yds. long respectively, to reach it.
Exonxaioiul. — A halt of a few hours at Hodane may be spent in visit-
ing the Cascade de St. BenoU (see below) on foot or by carriage. — To
Pralognan by the Coi de Chaviere, see p. 34S. — To the Dent Parraohie
(12,180 ft.), the culminating point of the Vanoise range, to the N.E. of
Modane, about 8l/ohrs., with guide. We cross the Arc and follow the
carriage-road via (V4 hr.) Le Bourgetj (1/2 h'-) 'he magnificent *Ca8cade
de St. Benoit, the Forts de VEsseilloH (p. 343), and (3/4 hr.) Austois (4720 ft. ;
inn; guide). Pralognan, totheN.W., may be reached hence in6Va-7 hrs. by
toilsome and uninteresting paths leading over the Col d'Aussoit Tp. 343).
The route to the Dent Parrachee leads first to the N. to the (iVa hr.)
Chalets de la Foumache., then to the N.E., and reaches the summit (21/4 hrs.)
by the S.W. arete. The magnificent *View includes not only the entire
range of the Vanoise but also the mountains of the Maurienne , the Ta-
rentaise, and Haut-D»uphine. The descent may be made to (7 hrs.) Pra-
lognan (p 338) via (about 5 hrs.) the chalets of Ritort (p. 343). — Roohe
Chevriire (10,765 ft.), to the B. of the Col d'Aussois (see above), about 6 hrs.
from Aussois (see above). The route follows the road to the eol as far
as the Chalets du Fond (7654 ft.) , which a^e about 3 hrs. below the top.
Pointe de rEohelle (11,360 ft.), on the E. of the Col de Chaviere (p. 342),
6-6Vahr8., fatiguing though without much difficulty for practised climbers,
with a guide. We bear to the right beyond the col to reach the (3 hrs.)
Lae de la Parties from which a snow-field and couloir (1 hr. 10 min.) are
rained, the latter taking 50 min. to ascend. Thence we reach the top in
hr. by the ar^te and E. face of the peak. Another route (7 hrs.), less
exposed to danger from falling stones, diverges to the left from the Dent
Parraeh6e route beyond the first stream after the Pont de Loutraz, and
ascends to the N. via the (li/^ hr.) Chalets de Pierre-Brttne and towards
the Aiffuille Doran (10,000 ft. •, dangerous). At the (1 hr.) head of the
valley we turn to the right towards the (2 hrs.). Col de la Masse^ between
the Bateau (10,265 ft.) and the Pointe de TEchelle, the top of which is
reached in 21/2 hrs. more. The *View is very fine. — The Pointe Stood
(11,066 ft.) takes about 7 hrs., with guide. We leave the Col de Chaviere
path a little beyond Polset (p. 343), descend to the left towards the stream,
%vhich we cross (3V4 hrs.), and then have a fatiguing climb to the (I1/2 hr.)
Olacier de Chavihre^ by which we reach (IV4 hr.) a first peak and then the
(1 hr.) true summit, from which there is a grand *View of the Dauphine
Alps. — The Aiguille de Polaet (11,608 ft.^ 9 hrs., with guide) is interest
iug but difficult. We proceed first in the direction of the Col de Chaviere
via Polsetf but (4l/s hrs.) quit the road before the col is reached and climb
the terrace supporting the (2 hrs.) Olacier de ChavUre. In about 2 hrs. more
we reach the Colde Qibroulat^ 1/2 hr. below the summit. The Col de G^brou-
laz is also passed on the ascent from Pralognan (p. 342).
The *XoiitTbabor (10,440 ft.) is an eas^ climb, practicable forniules,
but Requires a whole day (ascent 8 hrs. ^ with guide). We follow the new
road to the Col de Fr^jus, which bears to the S.W., passes above the
tunnel, and leads through the ii^/% hr. from Hodane) hamlet of Charmaix
(inn), on this side of which is the pilgrim-shrine of Notre- Dame-de-Charma%(c
(4950 ft.), said to date from Charlemagne's time. The chapel (fine view) is a
favourite object of excursions. The road then ascends the Combe de la
316 Z V. Rfmte 49, AIX - LES - BAINS. HateU.
Qrandt Montagne to (3 hrs.) the Col de Priju$ (8295 ft. t military station
in winter)^ to the S.W. of the Pointe de Frijus (9515 ft.), which may be
ascended from the col in 1 hr. (from the cot to Bardonnfeehe, p. 977,
footpath in 3 hrs.). — The path to Mont Thabor diY«rges from the road
at Le Lavair^ about IV4 br. from Charmaix, and erosses the (1^/4 br.) Col
de la Vallie-Etroite or de la Replaneite (8090 ft.), on the frontier, in order
to descend into the valley of that name, which turns to the N.E. and ends
at (about 31/s hrs.) Bardonn^ehe. We enter the first valley on tba right,
pass between the curious Roche de Seri or La Muande (9480 ft.) and the
(i/a hr.) pretty little Lac Peyron (8000 ft), turn to the left via the
(3/4 -1 hr.) Col de la Muande (fine view), and join the path coming from
the head of the valley and leading to a chapel, 5 min. below Uke aummit.
Mont Thabor is a magnificent point of view for the frontier-district between
France and Italy. The extensive panorama includes the Pelvoux range
and especially the Barre des Serins, here seen to full advantage. The
chapel is much frequented from the neighbourhood as a pilgrim - resort,
especially on St. Bartholomew's Day (24th Aug.) and the following Sunday.
— To the IS. of Mont Thabor , but separated from it by an abyss , towers
the Pic du Thabor (10,515 ft.), of which the ascent is more difficult. — The
tourist may descend by the Valine Etroite and thence reach Bardonniche
via MHezety or follow the path vii the Col des Thures and Nivache^ which
leads from the valley into Dauphine (p. 367). — An easy descent from
Mont Thabor leads to the S.W. , vl& (6 hrs.) Nivache (p. 377), lo Brianeon ;
and another to the N.W. to (4 hrs.) Valmeinier^ a village about S^/s M.
from St. Michel-de-Maurienne (p. 314).
49. Aiz-les-Bains and its Environs.
Hotels. HdTBL Splbmdidb (PI. a), C!hemin de Mouxy, in the higher part
of the town, with view, R. Sl/j-lO, B. 11/2* d6J. 4, D. 6, pens. 14-9i)fr.-,
Grand-HStbl BBBMA.8C0N BT Rbgina (PL b), to the S. of the Jardin Public,
new \ Grand-Hotbl d'Aix (PI. c). Avenue de la Qare^ Gr. Hot. Lamastikb;
H6t. MtTROPOLB, R. 41/3-9, B. 11/2, d^j. 3Va. I>. 4i/j, pens. 10-16, omn. 1-
11/3 fr. •, Gr. Hot. db l'Europb, Vbnat et Bristol (PI. d), these in the Rue
du Casino; Louvre bt Savoy (PI. e), pens, from 15 fr. •, du Hbldbr (PI. f),
Avenue de la Gare; du I^^ord bt Grande Brbtagnk, Rue du Casino; H6t.
D* Albion (PI. g), on the hill above the park, R. from 4, dej. 4, D. 5,
pens. 15 fr.; dbs Bbroubs (PI. h), International (PI. i). Avenue de la
Gare; Terminus, Boul. de la Gare. All these are of the first class. —
Slightly less expensive: HdT. dbs Bains, Rue du Casino; Bbau-Sitb, above
the Jardin Public, R. 51/3-9, B. I1/3, d^j. 31/2, D. 5, pens. 11-15, omn. V4 fr- \
G^AiLLARD, DE PaHis, Rue Daquiu ; Britanniqub bt Thermal (PI. k), to the
left of the Etablissement; Dussuel, to the right; db la Posts, du Grand
Cap£, Place (3arnot; db (}en&vb (Pl. 1), Rue du Casino; db l^Arc Ro-
MAiN, opposite the Baths; Couronne (PI. m), Dambsin, du Parc (Pi. n),
Rue de Chambery; du Mont-Blanc (PI. o), at the corner of the Avenues
Marlioz and de Tresserve; dbMarlioz; Mirabbau, Rue Dr. Garrot, near
the station; dbs Deux Mondes, Avenue Marie; Germain, Dufrbne, Rue des
Ecoles; Beausbjour, ChXtbau-Durieux (PI. p), Boul. des Cotes; Follibt
(PI. q), DfiROuoE, Rue Lamartine; *HdT. du (JBntrb (PI. t), Place du Be-
vard, R. from 31/3, B. 8/4, dej. 21/3, D. 3, pens, from 8 fr. ; Dueand, Gasin
bt Victoria, Russib, Rue de Geneve. At the height of the season (July
1st to Sept. 15th) the hotels at Aix are considered expensive. The usual
hour for ddjeuner is 10.30 a. m., for dinner 5.30 p. m. — Pentions and
Furnished Houses also abound (house-agent, Mertnoz, Avenue de la Qare).
Oafta. Orand-Oa/iy Place Carnot; Ca/i du Centre and others in the
Place du Revard. — Sestauranta. Du ffelder, de la Renaissance, du Loupre,
Avenue de la Gare, d^j. 3, D. 4 fr. ; Brasserie Russe ^ same street, dej. Sl/j,
D. 3 fr. — Rumpelme^fer^ confectioner. Avenue Marie, near the station.
n
1
Baths. AIX - LES - BAINS. IV. Route 49, 317
SteUiflMBifliit Thannal* Baths 1/2-S fr. ; doaehes V2'3l/3 ^^' '1 eonvey-
ftnee to bath 75 c, there and back II/4 fr. The Etablisflement is closed
from 11 a. m. to 3 p. m. and after 5 p. m. — Adm. to the Grottoes 1/2,
during illumination 1 fr. — A list of Physicians practising at Aix is ex-
hibited in the Etablissement.
Gab to the station 1 pers. 1 fr., for a party 75 c. each; in the town,
per drive, 1-2 pers. 1 fr., o-4 pers. 2 f r. ; per hour, with one horse 3, with
two horses 4 fr. ; night- fares (10-6) one -half more; large trunk 50 e.
Longer drives are also charged by tariff, which the driver is bound to
show. — [ DovKBTS, per hour 1, half-day 4^ day 7 fr. — Voitvrss Pub-
LiQUBs for excursions stand in the Place du Bevard, Place Gamot, and
Place de la Hairie. Details and prices (3-5 fr.) on the programmes.
Corap. pp. 318, 819. » Boats^ see p. 318.
Tramwaya (compressed air). From the Place de Geneve to the Pori
Puer (p. 318), 35 c. ; to the Petii Port or Port Cornavin^ 25 c. \ to Marlioz
(p. 318)^ 30 c. ; to Orisy (p. 330), 30 c.
CaBinoe. GtrcU^ Rue du Casino, adm. 3 fr. ; season-ticket 40, for 2 pers.
60 fr. — ViUa det Fleurty Avenue de la Gare, similar^ open-air concerts.
Post fc Telegraph OAoei Rue des Ecoles, near the Etablissement.
Snglish Chureh, Rue du Temple, behind the Villa des Fleurs; chap-
lain, iKev. B. O. Miller^ M. A.
Ata;-^«-5ai««(850ft.), with 8328 inhab., is well situated about
1^/4 M. firom the Lac duBourget, in a plain environed by mountains.
Its climate is very mild , the mean temperature being 55*^ Fahr. It
owes its importance to its warm sulphur springs, known to the
Romans, who named the spot Aquae. Qratianae. It is now a fash-
ionable and expensive watering-place, visited annually by more
than 35,000 bathers and tourists.
The EtahliMement Thermal , open all the year round , is sup-
plied from two copious springs , of 107** and 1()3** Fahr. : St. Paul's
or the Alum Spring, and the Sulphur Spring. The treatment, pre-
scribed chiefly for rheumatism and skin-diseases, includes douches
of ever>- description, massage, and baths, after the use of which the
patient is carried to bed enveloped in wraps. The waters may be
drunk gratis, and are supplied to public drinking-fountains in the
Place outside the establishment.
In front of the building is the Arch of Campanus, resembling a
triumphal arch but in fact a burial monument of the 3rd or 4th cent.,
erected by a certain L. Pompeius Campanus to his family. It is 30
feet high and 22 ft. wide. Eight niches contained the urns of the
persons whose names may still be read.
The Hotel de Ville, close by, originally a ch&teau of the Marquis
«rAix (16th cent.), has a handsome staircase and contains a small
Muteum (Musee Lepic) of antiquities, chiefly from the lake dwell-
ings of the Lac du Bourget (open daily, 9 to 11 and 1 to 4, 5, or 6;
50 c.). Part of the museum occupies the remains of a temple of
Diana or Venus. — The Cerele or Casino is a richly ornamented
building, dating from the palmy days of the gaming-tables. Gaming
still goes on to a considerable extent and grand f^tes are also given.
The Viliades llevrs (see above) has a beautiful garden.
The chief promenades of the town are the Park, above the Place
du Kevard, with a bronze figure of Hebe, by Turcan , and a group
318 JV, Route 49, AIX-LES-BAINS. Hautecombe.
of llonS) by GeofTroy ; and the Pro^nenade du Gipot, beyond the Rue
du Casino, in the direction of the Lac du Bonrget (see below).
About 1 M. to the S. of Aix, on the Ghamb^ry road (tramway), is
Karlioi, with a large and beautifal park and three cold sulphureous
springs, chiefly used for drinking and inhaling. These thus supplement
the Aix springs, which are little used for drinking.
Ezonrsions from Aiz-les-Bains.
To the Lac du Bonrget (p. 311), 2 M. to the W. of the town;
tramway (p. 317) to the Port Puer or Grand Port (caf^s; bath
1 fr.), in connection with the steamers, which make the circuit of
the lake several times daily in summer, stopping at Haatecombe
(see below) for 1 hr. (fares 3 fr.). In favourable weather trips are
made also to Bou/rdeau, Le Bourget (3 fr.) and the chateau of
Pierre- Chdtel J by the Rhone (6 fr.). — Rowing-boats for excursions.
*Haatecombe I a Cistercian monastery on the N.W. bank of the
lake, at the foot of the Mont du Chat, was the burial-place of the
Princes of Savoy until 1731, when the Superga near Turin was
chosen for that purpose. It was partly destroyed during the French
Revolution, and handsomely rebuilt in 1824-43 by Charles Felix,
King of Sardinia. The church (open 7.30-9, 10-11.30 a. m., 2-3,
3.45-6 p. m.) is very richly decorated and contains upwards of 300
statues, besides bas-reliefs, paintings, etc., some of considerable
interest. Visitors are hurried through under the conduct of a monk
(gratuity). The royal apartments, which may also be visited, are
very plain. Not far f^om the church is a caf^-restaurant.
The Gorges dnSierroi, IVs M. f^om Aix, are interesting though
not extensive. Tramway to the entrance 30 c; steam launch to the
other end 1 fr. {i^/itr, there and back; incl. tramway-fare 1^/4 fr.),
whence we may proceed to the mill and the Cascade de Or^ty (re-
staurant; station, see p. 320). — The road goes on vik (6 M.) La
Biolle and (8V2 M.) St. Germain to (11 M.) La Chambotte, a hamlet
on the top of the Mont Gigot or de Cor9V>et, overlooking the Lac
de Bourget (fine view). At the top is a hotel-restaurant (adm. 50 c).
We may descend to the station of (1 hr.) Chindrieux (p. 311) and
proceed thence to ChdtUlon (p. 311). — The Col de Cestens (2795 ft ;
Chalet- Hdtel dea Tours de Cesar) ^ 1 hr. from St. Germain (see
above), is a favourite point of view.
Le Bonrget, Benrdeaa, and the Col da Chat are usually visited
by carriage, and public brakes ply on certain days to the col (there
and back 5 hrs. ; fares, see p. 317; carr. with one horse 20 ftr., two
horses 25 ft*.). — The village of Le Bowget (Hdtel Ginet) lies at the
S. end of the lake, at the influx of the Leisse, 5Vt M. from Aix vi&
Tresserve and IV4 M. from the station of Viviers (p. 312). It pos-
sesses a ruined castle and a church in the Transition style, the
choir of which contains fine alto-reliefs of the 13th century. The
remains of the cloisters date from the 15ih century. — Bourdeau
or Bordeau, 2Vi M. farther on, to the right of the road to the pel,
Sevard. AIX-LES-BAINS. / V, Route 49. 319
also has a ruined castle (fine view). — The *Col du Chat (2090 ft.;
H6t. de la Dent du Chat), about 4^2 1^« ^om Le Bourget, is situated
almost directly opposite Aix, on the long and narrow mountain that
divides the Lake of Le Bourget from the railey of the Rhone.
♦View. On the W. the road descends to Pierre-Chdtel (p. 318).
The Sent du Ohat (4593 ft.), the chief samruit near the col, though not the
highest peak of the MonUzgnt dm Chat (4910 ft.), may be ascended hence in
about 31/a hrs., bat it is uaually approached by a good bridle-path direct
from Le Bourget in 3 hrs. The path is marked by posts, and 3/4 hr. below
the summit, near a spring, is a refuge-hut. *View, including Mont Blanc.
The *BeTard or Qrand Bevard (5070 ft.), a portion of the Mon-
tagne de la Cluse (5145 ft.), rising above Aix on the S.E., is ascended
by means of a mountain-railway (5Vt M. In length), starting from a
station above the park, to the right (p. 317; ascent 1 V4 hr., descent
1 hr. 5 min. ; return-fare from 5 fr. 15 c. to 10 fr. 30 c. according
to the time of day). A clear day should be chosen for this excur-
sion. The best views are at first on the left. Stations: Mouxy
(1352 ft.), Pugny (1890 ft. ; Hot. Pugny-Corbieres, of the first class),
Le Pr^-Japert (3425 ft). The best views are now on the right. We
soon reach the plateau of the Revard (5070 ft.), on which is a Grand
Hotel with a Chalet - Rtitawrant (R. from 3, d^j. 4, D. 5 fr., incL
wine). In good weather the *View is very fine, especially in the
directionof the High Alps, among which Mont Blanc rises like a
gigantic wall of snow. The view from the top of the Kiosque (1 fr.
charge don descending) is no better than that from below. The
slightly higher summit to the S., in the same group as the Revard,
is the Dent du Nivolet (p. 135; reached hence in about 2^2 hrs.).
The descent thence to Chamb^ry may be made in about 4 hrs.
Excursion-brakes ply also to the Font de PAblma, the Pont and Orotte
de Bangey and to Le Chdtelard (21/3 fr)i one going on even to St. Pierre
d'AlWgny (p. 313; 6 fr. ; ind. return by railway, 9 fr. 30 or 8 fr. 15 c.).
Au omnibus also runs from Aix to the Pont de TAbime only (return-fare
3 fr.). — The road leads to the N. £. through the valley of the Sierrez
(Ghresy , p. 320) , then across the Bauges or Beauge$ (about 3280 ft.) , an
extensive and picturesque rocky plateau, intersected with ravines and
covered with rich pasturage. The Bevard (see above) and the Semnoz (p. 320)
are parts of the same plateau-formation. The (9Va K) P<^^* ^ VAbtme
is a suspension - bridge over the gorge of the GMran^ 70 yds. long and
300 ft. high (restaurant). The road thither diverges to the left from the
main road at La Troppar (Ousy)^ 1/2 M. short of the bridge. The Pont de
Bange^ 3^/4 M. farther on by the main road, is a stone bridge also span-
ning the Gh^ran, which descends in cascades. On the right bank, 1/2 ^•
farther down, lies Martinod (inn), whence we may ascend in V4 hr. to
the OroUe de Bange (uninteresting). Beyond Martinod is (I1/4 M.) the
Pont de le Chamiat or de VBtrier, and 3V4 M. farther up (19 M. from Aix)
is Le Chdtelard (2500 ft. •, Hdtel de THarmonie or Viviand ; de la Poste),
a tiny town situated in the centre of the Bauges, on an eminence washed
by the Gh^ran and crowned by a ruined ch&teau. It is a pleasant spot
for a short residence and is a good centre for excursions to the Trilod
(p. 324; 41/2 brs., with guide), the Semnoz (p. 320), the Colombier (6773 ft. *,
o hrs.) and other points.
The road goes on from Le Gh&telard to (12 M.) St. Pierre-d' AUngny
(p. 313), via S M.) Eeole and (8I/2 M.) the *Col du Frine (3135 ft.),
noted for its Ane view of the valley of the Is6re and the mountains that
bound it.
320 IV. Rmtte 49. RUMILLY.
Other exeursionti may be made to the CoUime de Treuervt (1110 ft.).
iV: M. to the S. W. ; to Chdtillon (p. 311) ; the Oorg«$ (tflhe Fier (see below) •,
etc. — Various circular tours from Aix are also arranged by the railway
company; comp. the Indicateur.
The 8«mno2 (p. 833) may also be visited from Aix-les-Bains. Public
conveyances , see p. 317. The road is the same as that to Le Ch&telard
as far as the (151/4 M.) Pont de la CharnicU (p. 319), where it diverges to
the left and leads to the (SVs M.) Col de Leschaux. Fine view of the Lake of
Annecy. From Leschaux to the summit, see p. 323.
Fro* Aix-uss-Baiks to Akmbct add Obveva, 32 M . — Railway to (35 M.)
Annecy in 1-3 hrs. (fares 4 fr. 50 c, 3 fr., 1 fr. 95 c), aaid thence via Anne-
masse to (37 M.) Geneva in 21/2 -2«/4 hrs. (fares 6 fr. 86, 4 fr. 65 c, 3 fr.).
Best views to the right. Passengers with a through-ticket for a station
beyond Lovagny may break their journey at the latter, for a visit to
the Gorges du Fier (see below). If this route be taken in the opposite
direction there is a custom-house examination at the station at which
the traveller alights, if beyond Evires.
We leave the line to Gulo?. (Paris) on the left. Beyond the Lac du
Bourget appears the Dent du Ghat (p. 319). To the right, the Revard and
the Dent du 17ivolet (see pp. 319, 313). The train mna at first to the N.
through the valley of the aierroz. — 21/^ M. Gr^tff sur-AiXy with a ruined
castle and a pretty waterfall (see p. 3io). 7l/a M. Alben$ (H6t. de France).
Through an opening to the right appear the Semnoz and the Toumette
(p. 324). 101/3 H. Bloye.
At (13 M.) Rumilly (1095ft.-, Posle, in the town; Cheval Bkmc^ at the
station) , a little town of Roman origin , with 4390 inhab. , we cross the
Chiran. A pleasant excursion may be made hence to the N. W. , by the
Seyssel road, into the Val da Fier, or lower part of the Fier valley (see
also below) , the most picturesque part of which stretches from (6 M.)
8t. Andri (Hdt. -Restaurant du Club-Alpin) to the (21/0 M.) Poriet du Fier.
Diligence from Rumilly to (lOi/^ M.) Septsel (p. 381; fare 21/9 fr.).
17 H. Marcellaz-ffavteville. We now traverse the wild and romantic
Di/lU du Fier. On the left, near the end of the gorge, rises the chiteau
uf Montrottier., of the 14-t6th centuries. — 20i/s M. Lovagny (restaurant at
the station and at the entrance to the gorge) is the station for the *Oorget
du Fier (adm. 1 fr.), a grand ravine Va^- to theE., resembling those of
the Diosaz (p. 387) and the Trient (p. 292). — Beyond Lovagnv we obtain
a fine, view, to the right, of the Parmelan, the Semnbz, and the Tour-
nette. Tunnel of 1270 yds. ; then a bridge across the Fier.
25 M. Anneoy (p. 331), to the right. Railway-omnibus to the steamer,
50 c. — The railway turns to the N. into the valley of the FillUre. On
the right rises the Parmelan (p. 333). — 30 H. PHngv (1585 ft.). — 31 H.
Si. Mariin-Charvonnex (1863 ft.). AMent of the Parmelan , see p. 333. —
From (35 M.) GroUy - le - Plot - la - CaiUe (3150 ft.) a diligence runs twice
daily to Thorern (Hot. du Nord), on the Fillifere, 4i/a M. to the B. ; and
another to (41/4 M.) La Caille (Hdt. - Pension de V EtablisMment)^ a thermal
station to the W., on the Usses, here crossed by the *Pont de la CaiUe
(480 ft. high; hotel and caf^).
Beyond the great Fviree Viaduct (160 ft. high), at (39 M.) JTHres, the
line reaches its highest point (2950 ft ; custom-house, see above). ~ We
descend through a tunnel (1 M. long) to the valley of the Arve., with a
beautiful *View of Mont Blanc. — 441/3 M. 8t. Laurent. Views to the
right. — 431/9 H. La Roehe-nxr-Foroa and thence to (63 M.) Geneva (Oare
des Baux-Vives), see pp. 385, 388.
From Alx-les-Bains to Geneva vi&Ouloz^ 541/9 M., railway in 3l/3-3S/«
hrs. (fares 9 fr. 95, 6 fr. 75, 4 fr. 40 c), see pp. 811, 384, 388. — From Aix-
les-Bains to Ohamonix^ see above and R. 43. Another route to Cbamonix
leads via Annecy, the Lae d'Annecy^ the Vall4e dMrly, etc. (see p. 895).
321
50. Annecy and its Environs.
ArriTal. By the railway, see pp. 330, 324; by the lake, see p. 322. —
Luggage from beyond Evires (seep. 330) is examined here. -- Omnibus
from the station to the steamboat, 50 e.
Hotels. Ora-kd-Hotbl D'AitGLBTBBRB, Rue Royale, B. from 4, B. 11/2*
d^j. 31/2, p. 4, omn. Va-'A, pens. 10-12 fr.-, Qr. Hotbl Verdun, Promenade
du Paquier, well spoken of, R. from 3, B. IVa? d^j- 3l/a, D. 4, pens.
8-12 fr. i Hot. du Movt-Bladg, Rue Vaugelas, R, from 21/2, d^. or D. 2i/^fr. ;
DU Commerce, Rue Royale, R. 2-4, d6j. 21/21 !>• 3 fr. ; dbs Nbgociants, Rue
Royale 5, D. 2Va fr- — Hot. Bbau-Rivaob, at Le Grenier^ on the lake, 1 M.
from the town. — Caffis; du ThMtrey Promenade du Paquier; in the Rue
Royale; Gafi de la Oare; Brasserie de la Couronne.
Post and Telegraph OIBee, Rue Royale, beside the Hotel d'Angleterre.
Gab with one horse, per drive 11/2* per hour 21/2 fr. ; with two horses
2 and 3 fr.; each addit. i/j hr. 1» IV2 fr- Special tariflf for drives outside
the town. — Tramway to Thdnes, see p. 325.
Lake BtflainerB, seep. 322. — Small Boats 50 c. per hr., witji sail 60 c. ;
per day 3 fr. ; boatman IVs fr- fo' *he first hr. and 75 c. for each addit.
hr., 10 fr. per .day.
JBnquizy Ottoe (free): Syndieat d^ Initiative^ on the quay to the right,
at the end of the Rue du Pfiquier (closed 12-2 and on Sun. afternoon).
Baths : hot, Rue Vaugelas 34; cold, in the lake, Quai de la Tournette.
Protestant Church, Avenue Berthollet, beyond the railway.
Annecy (1470 ft.), with 12,894 inhab., an old-fashioned town
with linen factories and formerly the capital of the County of Ge-
nevois , is the chief town of the department of Haute Savoie and
the seat of a hlshopric. It is beautifully situated near the pretty
lake of the same name (p. 322) and is recommended as a plea-
sant resting-place. The old part of the town is traversed by canals,
and several streets retain arcades and vaulted passages.
The Rue de la Gare leads to the Rue Royale, where we turn to
the left. On the same side is the Chapel of the Visitation, richly
adorned in the interior, and containing the tombs of St. Francis de
Sales (d. 1622) and St. Johanna of Chantal (d. 1641).
At the end of the town next the lake is an ancient fortified Chd-
teau, -with square machicolated towers (14-1 6th cent.), now a barrack.
The Rue Royale is continued by the Rue du Paquier to the Pro-
menade du Paquier, with its fine trees, which affords charming
views of the lake and of the Tournette. To the right is the Theatre
(with a caf^); towards the middle, on the left, facing the lake, is
the Prefecture f in front of which is a bronze statue, by Becquet, ojf
Sommeiller (1815-71), one of the engineers of the Mont Cenis Tunnel.
On the other side of the canal issuing from the lake lies the
Jardin Public, with a statue of Berthollet (p. 322), in bronze, by
Marochetti, and a monument to President Camot, by Guimberteau.
On the same side of the canal stands the Hotel de Ville, which
contains a Ldbrary and a Museum; the. latter boasts few works of
art, but Is interesting as affording an excellent illustration of the
characteristics of Savoy.
The church of St. Maurice, in the adjacent square, dates from
the 15th cent and has an interesting interior. Farther on, on the
Canal du Thiou, is the Palais de I'Jsle, the old fortified mansion of
Baedeker. Southern France. 4th Edit. ^1
322 IV. Rmite 50. TALLOIRES. Excurwifms
the Gomtes de Geneyois, tfteiwards used as a law-court and prison^
now in ruins. — The Cathedral, on the right bank of the same
canal, is a Gothic building (16th cent.) of little interest. — Ad-
jacent is the Bi8?wp*8 Palace (1784).
Szeorsions from Annecy.
Lake Stbambbs, eight times daily or oftener, in summer, to the end of
the lake in 1-2 hrs. (fkres 1 fr. 40, 90 c), round the lake in 21/4-d hrs. (3, 3 fr.) ;
restanrant on board (d^j. 31/2 fr.). Steamboat-office, Rne Royale 11.
The ♦Lake of Annocy (1470 ft.), 9 M. long, Vi'S M. wide, and
)260 ft. deep) is surrounded by meadows, yineyards, and pretty villages
and villas, overtopped by mountains, with the Dents de Lanfon and
the rocky walls of the Tournette to the S.E. and the long ridge of
the Semnoz to the S.W. — The steamer, starting from the pier be-
side the canal near the Jardin Public , steers at once across the
lake to Veyrier (H6t. Brunet), at the foot of the Montague de Vey-
Her (4265 ft), with its caves (flue view from the top; new path in
2Vt hrs.). Route to Thdnes, see pp. 326, 326. From Veyrier the
steamer returns to S^vrier (see below), or proceeds to —
tjlMenthon, a prettily situated village, at some distance from the
lake. On the bank of the latter are Sulphur Baths (Hdt. des Bains,
pens, from 7Vs fr.) and remains of Roman buildings. On a hill
about 1 V4 M. to the E. is the old Chdteau, in which, in 923, was
born St. Bernard of Meiithon, the founder of the hospices on the
Great and Little St. Bernard. On the Roc de Chere (2110 ft.), which
separates Menthon from Talloires, is the tomb of B. Taine (1828-
93), the critic and historian. — The steamer then goes on direct
to Talloires or recrosses the lake to touch at St. Jorioz (p. 324).
Talloires {Hot. de VAhhaye^ well spoken of; Beau-Site; BeUe-
vue; guide, Jean Lovy), about 1 hr. from Annecy, the principal vil-
lage on the lake, is prettily situated and well sheltered from the cold
N. and N.E. winds by the Tournette and other mountains. It has an
old A6&e2^ (9-llth cent.), now dissolved. The celebrated chemist
Berthollet (1748^1822) was born here. Ascent of the Tournette, see
p. 323. — We are -now at the flnest point on the lake, at the en-
trance of the second part of it, which is hidden from Annecy by
the Roc de Chere and a peninsula on the opposite bank. — Duingt
(Hdt. Bouvier), with its old castle, on this peninsula, is very pic-
turesque. The steamer finally turns at Bout du Lac, near the rail,
station of Lathuile^ on the Annecy and Albertville line (p. 324).
To THE Semnoz. Railway in V4 ^^- *o (4V4M.) S/vrier,
whence a road ascends to the right to the (7Vs M.) Col de Leschaux
(3030 ft. ; Hot. CoUomb), to the S.E. of the summit, where the ascent
proper (lVg-2hrs.) begins.
Private carriage fromAnneey to the col, 12-15 fr. A service of public
vehicles plies daily from the Rue du Paquier to Luchaux (3 fir., there
and back 5 fr.}, whepce a horse or mule may be taken to the top (fi fr.) \
from Anntcy. PARMBLAN. iT. R<mU 50. 323
exeuraioji-tieketf inel. D. and R. at the hotel, 11 fr. 10 e. — From Aix-les-
Bains, see p. 319.
The *Bwnan%z (5590 ft.) is a mountain, covered with woods and
pastures , which extends to the S. of Annecy and to the W. of the
lake for a length of ahout 12 M. The principal summit is the Crei
de €hdtilUm, just below which is a Hotel, where tourists pass the
night to see the sunset and sunrise. Although the mountain is not
very high, it Is a celebrated point of view and has been styled
the Rigi of Savoy. The panorama includes, from left to right
beginning on the N., the lakes of Geneva and Annecy, the Parmelan,
the Tournette, the Swiss Alps with Mont Blanc, the Alps of Dau-
phiny, the Lac du Bourget, and the Jura chain.
To THE Pa&uelan, also an interesting and easy excursion. A
good path leads to the summit, on which is a chalet-hotel of the
F. A. C. (30 beds, 2 fr. each).
The most frequented and most picturesque route leads via Dingy
(tramway thus far, see p. 326) and £« BlonMhre (carriage from Dingy,
IVa fi*-) whence the summit is attained in 2V2-3 hrs. A guide is not needed
unless the traveller desires to explore the ^apiaK* (see below). The ascent
is also made via Naves^ 2H. to the N. of 8ur-les-Boit (p. 396) and thence
by the Chalet Chapuis (see below) in 3 hrs. — Another route leads via
VilUu (3313 ft. ; Hotel-Bestaurant du Chateau de Bonnatray), about 1 hr.
to the S.£. of the station of St. Martin-Gharvonnex (p. 390), whence the
top is reached in 3Va hrs. by the Chal^ de Diionehe.
To Dingy, see p. 326. Ahout 1^4 M. higher up is the hamlet
of La Blonniire (2950 ft.), at the farther end of which we turn to
the left, descend to a brook, and then ascend by a steep path, or by
rounding the valley to the right, to the (Va ^r*) first plateau (3705 ft.),
where there is a chalet commanding a fine view. A path among
flr-trees to the right next brings us to the (V4 hr.) Chalet Chapuis
(3715 ft.), and beyond that a good path (1 hr.) to the foot of the precip-
itous rocks which give the Parmelan the appearance of a gigantic
fortress. "We finally climb the Grand Montoir by a zigzag path
(V2 hr.), furnished with steps and iron bars. The ♦Parmelan (6085 ft.),
whose summit and club-hut are within V4 lir. of the top of the Grand
Montoir, is not only a mountain of singular and imposing aspect
but one of the best view-points in the district and farther remark-
able for the strange plateau in which it culminates. The panorama
is similar to that from the Semnoz but more extensive, and the
view of Mont Blanc , which suddenly appears as we reach the top,
is very striking. The plateau of the Parmelan, like the Desert de
Plat^ (p. 287), is a great expanse of bare and crevassed rocks called
^lapiaz', presenting many curious shapes and containing caverns
full of ice , the most remarkable of which is known as TEnfer'.
To THB TocRMBTTB, a stiff climb but devoid of difficulty since the
paths have been improved. The ascent takes about 6 hrs. from Talloires
(p. 323), Th6nes (p. 396), or Giez (p. 324). A guide (10 fr.) and provisions
should be taken and may be obtained at the above starting-points, or even
farther on. — From Tidioire* (p. 333), whence the ascent is steepest, shortest,
and most interesting , we mount at first to the E. to St. Oermain. Thence
the route leads by the hamlets of La Pirrazy Verel^ and La Sauphaz (driv-
ing practicable to this point) to the Col du Nantet (4375 ft.). Bearing to
21*
324 IV. Route 50. FAVERGhES: ExcurgUm$
ihe S., we proceed to the dhaleU du Naniet and de Ldo or de VHaut (4510 ft.)>
3 hrs. from Talloires. Finally, by the (I-IV2 hr) Chalet du Castet (7120 ft.)
and the Arpeirtm^t to the W.. of the Montremont VcMeyy we ireaoh the foot of
the sheer cliffs of the Tournette, from 1300 to 1600 ft. higlL, up which a F.A.C.
path leads to the Fauteuil (see below). — From Oiez (see below) we proeced
to the N. , past (V4 hr.) Vesonne^ to (1 hr.) Montmin (3430 ft.) and the Prit
du Lari^ from which the ascent zigzags up to the Fauteuil (see below). —
From Th6nes(j^. 326) we first follow theFaverges road, quittiag it at (50 min.)
Belchamp^ on this side of the col^ then to the S.W. to (about 21/8 hrs.) the
Chalets du Rosairy^ where the more difficult part of the ascent (a- 21/2 I*")
begins. The last part is made by iron ladders to the Fauteuil. — The *Toiir*
nette (7730 ft.), rising conspicuously on the banks of the Lac d'Annecy, to
the S.E. of the town, is the chief height in the neighbourhood, and, like
theParmelan, presents immense walls of rock surmounted by a plateau.
In the midst of^the latter rises a huge rock, 100 ft. high and apparently
inaccessible. This is the Fauteuil^ of which the ascent can be made only
by a 'cheminee', furnished with iron ladders fixed to the rock. The view
from the top is naturally very like that from the Semnoz and Parmelan, but
more extensive, including for instance the Ar&vis range (p. 326). TJie Tour-
nette is almost opposite Mont Blanc and at just s-ueh a distance as to afford
a view of that chain at once comprehensive and detailed. The giants of
the Tarentaise and Dauphiny are also well seen, while the picture is
completed by smiling valleys , lakes, and plains. Sunrise and bttnset are
often very beautiful as seen from this mountain.
Fbom Annboy to ALBBBXviLiiE, 287? M., railway in 17,-2 hrs.
(fares 5 fr. 15, 3 fr. 50, 2 fr. 25 c).
This route may also be performed by steamer across the Lake of An-
necy to the Bout du Lac^ at its S.E. end (in about U/4 hr.)^, whence the
traveller may join the railway at the station of Lathuile (see below).
The line describes a circuit round the town to the S.E. and
passes under the Cret du Maure, by a tunnel 1 M. in length, beyond
which it reaches the W. bank of the Lake of Annecy (p. 322). Charm-
ing views to the left of the lake, the Dents de Lanfon, and the Tour-
nette. 4V4 M. Sevrier (road to the Semnoz, to the right, p. 322);
674 M. <S^. Jorioz; 8 M. Duingt. Beyond a tunnel 800 ft. in length
we reach the station of (10 M.) Lathuile^ near the Bout du Lac
(p. 322), and and then traverse the wide valley of the Eau- Matte.
— 1272 ^- Doussard,
To the S. of Doussard rises the Charbon, a mountain culminating in the
BanC'Piat (6280 ft.) and the THlod (7170 ft.). The ascent of the latter, by
the £, side, takes dVs brs., with guide (41/2 hrs. from Le Ghatelard, p. 319);
that of the former 41/2 hrs.
14 M. Oiez (to the Tournette , see above). — 16 M. Faverges
flGGS ft.j Hot. de Geneve, well spoken of; Poate), a town of
2680 inhab. , with an old chateau converted into a silk factory. To
Thones via Serraval, see p. 326 ; to Frontenex (Albertville) by the
Col de Tami^, see p. 327.
About 1 M. from the town arc the interesting Orottet de Seythenex,
recently made accessible and lighted with electricity. Beautiful waterfall.
The line turns to the N.E. and quits the valley of the Eau-Morte.
In clear weather Mont Blanc is seen to the left. Nearer at hand is
the Charvin{p. 326), ascended in 6 hrs. from (1872 M.) Martens, the
next station. We cross the Chaise and follow its left bank, skirting
the Dent de Cons {^106 fU). — 23 M. r/yinca (1350 ft.; Hotel deCha-
/rom Anneey, MJ^OEVfi. .IF. Route 60. 325
moniz ; Garrin) ; the little town . wHh a ruined castle, lies on a hill
about Ve^.to the left. Route to Ghamoniz, see below. — Werecross
the Ghaise, which a little farther on joins the Arly, and then follow
the right bank of the latter, passing beyond (24 M.) Marthod through
a tunnel V4 M. In length. — 28Vi M. AlbertvilU (p. 327).
Fbom Annboy to GHAM0I7IZ. — a. Vil La-Boche-du-Fokok and Le
Tatbt, see RB. 49, 42. — b. Via Ugimbs^ the Valley of the Ably, and
St. Obbtais, 69 M. Sailway to Uginei in IVs hr. ; diligence thenee in
summer daily in 6 hrs. to Le Faytt (p. 287) ; electrie railway from Le
Fayet to Chamonix in 1 hr.
To (23 M.) Ugines, see p. 324. — We turn to the left and below
Ugines pass into the wooded and picturesque gorge of the Arly.
We cross the stream siz times and pass through two tunnels.
37 M. Flumet (3000ft. ; H8tel du Mont-Blanc; des Balances), a
large village, with a customs station (for travellers in the reverse
direction) and a ruined castle. Road to Anneey over the Col des
Aravis , see p. 326 and below. — The main road continues to ascend
the valley of the Arly and crosses the stream twice. Mont Blanc
by-and-by comes into sight, on the right, and the Buet in the line
of the valley. — 44 M. Lc Fraz,
48 M. X6g6T« (3690 ft.; Hot, Conseil; Tissot; du Panorama^
a village where dejeuner is usually taken. The Mont Joly (p. 302;
guide unnecessary; mule 6 fr.), to the S.K., may be ascended hence
(6 hrs. there and back).
The Geneva road (mail-ear to Sallanehes daily) ascends for about 3/4 ^•
more, an then descends to (10 H.) SaUanehet (p. 1IKB6), via (5 H.) Combloux^
a village near whieh opens a fine ♦View of the upper valley of the Arve.
and of Mont Blane.
The Chamoniz road diverges to the right, about 1^4 M. beyond
M^give, and, turning to the E. , commands a striking view of the
valley of the Arve, Sallanehes, the Aiguille de Varens, the Pointe
du Golloney, and Mont Blanc. — 52 M, Le Freney, Farther on, we
cross a lofty bridge spanning the gorge of the Bon-Nant, in which
lies St Gervais-les-Bains (p. 287), to the left.
54V4 M. St, Qervais-le 'Village (p. 287), from the other side of
which we descend in a long curve to (56V2 M.) Le Fayet, where we
join the electric railway to (69 M.) Ghamoniz (p, 287).
F&OM Annecy to TndNES anj) the Aeavis Ghain. — Tramway
to (13 M.) TMne» in U/a hr. (fares 2 fr., 1 fr. 45 c. ; return 3 fr. 60, 2 fr.
60 e.), starting from the station. In the season there are also two com-
bined serviees of brakes and boats from Annecy to ThdaeSt Serraval, and
the lake (or viee versa), starting about 7a. m. and noon and taking 7-10 hrs.,
including stoppages (tickets, 8 fr., available for a week).
As far &6Alex (p. 326) there is an alternative road (8 M) via(4VsM.)
Veprier (p. 333) and the (I8/4 M.) Col de Bluffy (ea. 2635 ft. ; inn).
The tramway follows in general the line of the road up the valley
of the Fievj with stations at VignUrea, Annecy - le - Vieux, and
326 IV. Route SO, THdNES.
(47^ M.) Stir-les-Bida, Qood views are obtained, on the left of the
Parmelan and on the right of the Tournette and the striking Dents
de Lanfi^n (5520 ft.). — We now descend into the valley of the
Fier through a picturesque defile between the Montagne de Vey-
Her (p. 322; right) and the M-orUagne de Laehat (left). — 7M.
Dingy- Farmdan y '/^ M. from Dingy (H6t. Paradis) on the way to
the Parmelan (p. 323). Interesting excursion to (378 hrs.) Veyrier
(p. 322} via the Col du Rampon, which commands a beautiful view
of the lake and its environs. — 91/4 M. Alen (1942 ft.), with an old
ch&teau. — At (ll*/4 M.) Morette we cross the Fier, near a cascade.
13 M. Th6nes (2050 ft.; Hot, de PlainpalaU; du Midi, well
spoken of> du Commrrce; du Chevcd Blanc), a small industrial
town (2915 inhab.) at the junction of the Fier and the Num, and a
good centre for walks and excursions.
Ascent of the Tournette; see p. 324^ of the Charvin, see below. — To
Talloire$ (p. 333) over the Col du Nantet (p. 838) is a walk of 41/3-5 bn.
Fbom Thoves to Fatbrobs (Anneey), 12 M. (brakes, see p. S35). —
At (I1/4 M.) Le» Clefs we cross the-Fier and quit its valley. At the head
of the valley rises the Ckarvin (7930 ft.), the easy ascent of which, recom-
mended to botanists, is made from Thones (in Q^/^-l hn.)^ Serraval (see
below), or Marlens (p. 334; 6 hrs.). — The Faverges road next ascends the
valley of the Petit f^er, to the right of which rises the Tournette (p. 334).
— 8 M. Col du Marais or da Serraval (inn), near which is a rained castle. —
At (6 M.) Serraval we cross a torreut by a bridge 16& ft. hich. We now
descend through the defiles of Deson and Les Conbe*^ traversed by the
Chaise, — 10 M. St. Ferriol. — 12 M; Faverge» (p. 324).
Feov THduBS TO TRB Grand-Bokvakd , 71/2 M. , omnibus in 3 hrs.
The road ascends the Kom valley to the N.E. , skirting the Mont Laehat
(6650 ft.). >- 3 H. Les VillardS'Sur- TMnes. About 2 M. farther on we leave
to the right the road to the Col des Aravis and the village q( St. Jean-
de-Sixt (see below). — Si/a M. Pont des Etroits. on the Borne. [A road leads
along this river to (121/0 M.) BonnevilU (p. 38b), via (10 M.) SL Pierre-
de-Rumilly (p. 385).] — 71/a M. Le Gnmd-Sttrnand (3055 ft.*, Milhomme;
Qaillard; Commerce)., a large village noted for its ^reblochons* (cheeses)
and a good centre for botanists and tourists. ValUe ^Bntremonty see
below; Col des Aravis ^ see below. — From Oraad-Bornand we may cross
to the N.E. by (3 hrs.) the Col des Annes (5610 ft.) into the pretty valley
of the Reposoiry with (81/2 hrs.) Pralong or Le Reposoir (Hdt. Persey-Griod),
and the Carthusian convent of Le Reposoir (men only admitted). This
valley joins that of the Arve near Cluses (li/^JA.,, p. 1&6).
From Thomes to Lb Fatbt {CAamonix) via the Col dbs Aravis,
391/2 M., a very fine route; brake in summer daily at 6 a. m. in 6 hrs.
Koad to Grand-Bornand as far as St. Jean-de-Sixt (about 4 M.), see above.
The road to Flumet continues to ascend the valley of the Nom , which
bends to the S. —71/2 M. La Clusaz (3410 ft.; Hdt. du Passajee-des- Aravis;
Lion d'Or), a summer-resort. — I21/2 M. *Ool des Aravia (4^15 ft. ; chalet-
inn) , between the Rocher de VEtale (8145 ft.), on the right, and the Porte
des Aravis (7650 ft.), on the left. The view of the Hont Blanc range is
superb. The eol is near the centre of the Aravis Chain ^ which extends
from Faverges, on the S. W. end, to the Arve valley on the E. of Closes
(p. 386), and includes the peaks of the Gharvin (7920 ft. ; see above) and
the Rocker de Vgtale (8145 ft.), to the 8. of (he pass, and the Roehtr dt la
^almaz (8700 ft.), ifVlf-Pe/otMe (8470 ft.), Pointe-P«rc4e (9035 ft.; P. 386), and
Pointe d'Areu (8095 ft.), to the N. We descend by the left bank of the Aravis
brook to (15 M.) La Gietiat (3640 ft. ; hotel), whence a road leads to the left
over the (31/2 hrs.) Col de JaiUet (6065 ft.) to (4 hrs.) Sallanebes (p. 286).
Our road leads to the 5. through the valley of the Arondine. — 20 H.
Flumet, and thence to (891/2 H) ^' -^•^^> see p. 336.
I
51. From Chamb^ry to Albertville and Hoiltiers
(Tarentaise).
48 M. Railway to (dOi/a M.) Albertville in ll/riV4 ^r. (fares 6 fr. 60,
3 fr. 80, 2 fr. 45 c); thence to (HVd M.) Mooter* in I-II/4 br. (fftres 3 fr.
85, a fr. 20, 1 fr. 45 c).
Chambery, see p. 312. — We take the Modane line (R. 4S> as
far as (ISVa M.) St. Pierre-d'Albigny (p. 313), where we change car-
riages. The railway to A.lbertvUle asoends the right bknk of the
Jstre. High up on the other bank, at the confluence of the Isere and
the Arc, is the fort of Montperche, 22 M. Oresy-eitr-'Isere (Hdt. de
la Treille), with Roman antiquities. On the left is MontailUur, with
an old castle and an isolated tower on a rocky hill. — 25V2 M.
Frantenex, To the left is the Montagne de la Samhny (7225 ft*).
A road ieads hence to (11 M.) Faverges (p. 334) over the (5 M.) Col
de TamW (2980 ft.), from which there is a fine view.
3OV2M. Albertville (1180 ft.; Hot. Million, R. from2V8, B. 1,
d^j. or D. 3 fr., well spoken of; dea BalanceSy both at some distance
from the station; Hdt,- Buffet de la Qare, R. 2, B. '/4, D. 2^/^ fr.), a
pleasant town of 6370 inhab., received its present name in 1835 in
honour of King Charles Albert of Sardinia. It consists of two parts
divided by the Arly : I'Hopital^ with the station, on the right bank,
and Confians, the picturesque but ill-built older part, on the left.
The latter contains a convent (12th cent.) and some remains of its
old walls, including a gate. In the Church are a finely carved
wooden pulpit, a gilded altar-piece, and several curious fonts.
The Ekvirovs of Albertville are attractive, and several interesting
aseentg may be made. As, however, many points are fortified and in-
accessible to the visitor, it Is advi8al}le to make previous enquiries at
the Syndieat d'Initiative, Bue de la B^publique 84. Among the favou-
rite ascents are those of the Belle -Etoile (6055 ft.; 5 hrs.), the Dent de
Cons 1^6785 ft.-, 6 hrs.), the Sembuy (T227 ft.: 6-7 hrs.). the Pointe de Chau-
rionde (7515 ft. ; 6-7 hrs.), the Grand Arc (8165 ft. s 8-9 hrs.), the Bellaehat
(8150 ft.5 7-8 hrs.), the Roche Pourrie (6710 ft.; 6 hrs.), the MiranHn (808? ft.;
6-7 hrs.), and the Orand-Mont (8845 ft.; 9-10 hrs.).
From Albertville to Annecy, see pp. 325, 824.
FsoM Ai/BBKTViLLE TO Gbamokix VIA UoinEs, 51Va M., railway and dili-
gence daily in IOV4 hrs. Railway as far as (51^/3 M.) Uginet^ see pp. 335,
324 ; thence to Chamonix, see p. 325.
FsoM Albbstvillb to Bbaufobt, 121/2 M., mail-ear twice daily in
3 hrs. (2 fr.). We cross the Arly, turn at once to the left below Confians,
and farther on, to the right, ascend the pretty valley of the Doron de
Beaufort , passing (21/3 M.) Venthon and (10 M.) Villard de Beaufort' and
crossing the stream three times. Mont Blanc is seen to the left, beyond
the second bridge. — Seanfort (2487 ft. ; H6t. du Mont-Blanc^ well spoken
of; Cheval Blanc; guides), pleasantly situated on the Doron, at the con-
vergence of three valleys, is a good centre for excursions. The castle
which gives it its name, now a school, is perched on a height (9270 ft. ;
there and back 21/2 hrs^, at the mouth of the Haute-iiuce valley (»e.e
below). — Frov Bbaufobt to St. Gebvais by thb Col dd Joly, 10 hrs.,
wiih guide, an interesting expedition. There is a carriage-road as far as
(41/2 M.) Haute-Luee (3780ft. ; MoUier), then a bridle-path to BeUetille and a
path, .indistinct in places, to the (21/4 brs.) Cfl du Joly (6660 ft.), on the
S. of Mont Joly (p. 9D3), from which there is a view of Mont Blanc. De-
scent by Contaminet^ see p. 308. — From Albertville to the Col du Bonhomme
328 rr. Route 61, MOf^TIERS. TarentaUe.
through the Yalloy of the Oitiet see p. 803. — Fbom Albbbtvillb to Lbs
Chapivux (Bovrg-at-Mauriee)^ c». 5 hrs. The first part of the route (driv-
ing praetieable) leads through the fine upper valley of the Doron to
(71/2 M.) Ro$eUnd (4865 ft.). Thence the best plan is to cross the (3 hrs.)
Oormet or CqI de Roiteltnd r63iO ft. ; guide or porter necessary). £e« Cha-
pieux and Bfiurg-^-Maurice^ see pp. 303, 331.
The railway from Albertville to Moutiers crosses the Arly and
ascends the right bank of the Uere. Best view to the right. —
5^2 M. La Bdtkie, above which, on the left, are the ruins of an old
castle of the Archbishops of the Tarentaise. About IV4 M. to the
right are the ruins of EsierU-Blay, At the head of the valley on
the right, between the Qrcmd Arc (8165 ft.), on the right, and the
Bellachat (8165 ft.), on the left, is the Col de Bamnmt (5270 ft.),
leading into the Maurienne (Aiguebelle, 6 hrs.; p. 313). Opposite
(N.E.) is the Toumette (8060 ft.) which must not be confounded
with the mountain of that name near Annecy (p. 324). — 8 M.
Cevins, or rather La Roche (1270ft.; Croix Blanche; Lion d'Or), a
hamlet of the parish of Cevins.
Here bei^ins the Tarentaise, the southern part of Savoy, which in-
cludes the Upper Valley of the hhre and the VMey of the Doron de Salin*^
its tributary. The two rivers rise among the highest mountains ot France,
after the mighty summits of the Mont Blanc and Pelvoux ranges, and they
descend between three other chains of mountains which have a general
direction from S. to N., so tliat their slopes are for the most part covered
with pastures and woods. The Tarentaise presents therefore, in addition
to Alpine scenery of the highest rank, a variety of aspects, such as the
Alps of Dauphiny, for instance, lack. Its mountains form part of the
Oraian Alps^ which extend to the plains of Piedmont between the Dora
Biparia and the Dora Baltea. It was little known to tourists till within
the last twenty-five years, and it is even now less visited than it deserves.
Beyond Cevins the valley contracts. The train traverses two
tunnels and crosses to the left bank of the Isere. To the left are the
ruins of the Chdteau de Brianpon, The railway returns to the
right bank. — 127? M. Notre- Dame-de-BHan^on, at the confluence
of the CeUiers torrent and the Isere.
Fkom Notrb-Daiib-db-Briaii^on- to La Chambrb, 7-S hrs. The route
ascends the Celliers valley via (1 hr.) Bonneval - les - Oranges and (3 hrs.)
Celliert (4520 ft.) to (1 hr.) the Col de la Madeleine (6610 ft.), between the
aros Villan (8830 ft.), on the right, and the Oheval Noir (93()0 ft.), on the
left. Fine view. We then deseend by (3Vs hrs.) St. Martin- sur- la-
Chambre (3043 ft.) to La Chambre (p. 314).
To the left, beyond another tunnel, rises another ruined castle.
The valley again expands. On the right opens the valley of the Morel
(p. 330) , leading from Aigueblanche to the Col de la Madeleine.
The summits of the Yanoise (p. 341) begin to appear in the line of the
valley. — 15*/? M. Aigueblanche (Hot. des Voyageurs), beyond
which is a ravine where the road rises considerably and the railway
traverses another tunnel, 1 M. in length. To the right is the con-
fluence of the Isere and the Doron de Salins.
171/2 M. Motltiers- en -Tarentaise (1575ft.; Hotel du Pare;
Vizioz, well spoken of; BertoH)^ a town of 2489 inhab., on the
Isdre, formerly the capital of the Tarentaise, is the seat of a bishop-
ric which owes its origin to a monastery founded here in the 5th
Tarmtahe. MOtTIERS. IV. Boitte 5h 329
century. The treasury of the Cathtdrcd is worth seeing, including
an abbot's staff and other objects formerly belonging to St. Peter II.
(12th cent.).
From Modtiers to Bourg - St-Maurice and Val -(2V<^r«{, see B. 52 \ to
SaUnt^ Brides^ Pralognan^ ete., see K. 53.
Exeursionv. TheGuiDBS of the Tarentaise do not, as a rule, recognize
tbe tariff of the F. A. G. The charges given below are generally obseryed,
but it is advisable to make a bargain in eaeh case. The rate for an or-
dinary tour is 8-15 fr. per day, with food; for tours above 10,000 ft.
13-90 fr., for the more difficult tours 90-60 fr. Porter 5-6 fr. per day.
Mule 8-10 fr., in a few eases 15 fr. -> Th. Cullei is the chief guide at
Modtiers.
To MoMT JovfiT. The ascent of this mountain, which is also made
from Brides-les-Bains (p. 337) and Bozel (p. ^8), is among the finest and
easiest in the Tarentaise (6 hrs. \ 10 hrs. there and back). D^ection -posts
placed by tbe F. A.C. enable climbers to dispense with a euide. Passing
(3 hrs.) Ptisi<m$-»ur'8cain» (4265 ft.), we reach (l/sl^r.) the &oix de Feittam
(4757 ft.), on the first plateau, where by diverging a few min. from the path
we obtain a fine view of the Is^re valley. A little farther on we enjoy
a beautiful retrospect of mountains and glaciers. — We now follow for
i/s hr. a good path through wood and ascend for another i/g hr. to the
right through clearings, then to the N.E. over pastures to the foot of the
Jovet. At length, about 4 hrs. after starting, we come in sight of the
summit between two nearer ones, the chief of Which is the urande-C6te
(8015 ft.) on the right. About 1 hr. farther on, at the base of this moun-
tain, is the Plan de VAignaz (7380 ft.), with a good spring-, and less than
8/4 hr. beyond this is the Chalet-HdUl of the F.A.C. (8040 ft.; d^j. 31/21
I>.^4Va f^M wine extra). To reach the (20 min.) summit we ascend the
arete on the left, which may be easily climbed even by ladies. The
^Mont Jovet or Jouvet (8410 ft.), which has been styled the Rigi of the
Tarentaise, is, owing to its isolated position between the valleys of the
Is&re and Doron, one of the chief view-points of the district. It affords
a very striking panorama, in which the chief objects are, to the N., Hont
Blanc and its neighbours, to the E. the Grand Gombin and Monte Rosa, to
the S. B. the Vanoise range, and to the S. the lofty summits of Dauphiny,
with the fan-shaped Serins. Aime and Bozel, not seen from the top, are
respectively N. and S. ; the descent to either takes 31/3-4 hrs.
To TBB PoiVTB DB GR&vE-TiTB, Si/s hrs., with guide: bridle-path
to within 10 min. of the top. The way leads by the (I1/4 hr.) Prd de
Dagand or by (3 hrs.) X« Puits; then via the Col de la Croix-de-la-Coche
(31/2 hrs. from Modtiers), tbe (I/2 hr.) Col de la Orande-Coche (fine woods),
the (Va !»>••) '*<" <*• Pierre-Larron (sometimes wrongly named 'Gol de la
(3oche*), and a wooded slope leading to the (1 hr.) ArSle de Lo»gechat
(ea. 6890 ft.), by which the summit is easily reached in 1 hr. more.
The *Point« de (Trive - T«te (7635 ft.), the upper extremity of the moun-
tain mass which rises to the S. of Aigueblanehe, between the valleys of
the Morel and the Doron, also affords, a very fine view of the Tarentaise,
particularly of the Is^re valley above and below MoQtiers, of the valley
of the Doron, Mont Blanc, the Vanoise range, and Mont Pourrl to the E.
— The Pointe de Creve-Tete may also be reached by following the Col de
la Madeleine route (see below) to Le* Avanchere^ which Is about U/s hr.
below the Pa$ de Pierre-Larron (see above).
The *Ch»Tal Voir (9396 ft.), farther to the 8.W., is a still finer point
of view. The ascent, which is long but not difficult (9i/a hrs. from MoAtiers),
is usually made by the (7 hi>s.) Col de la Madeleine (p. 338). The more frequented
of the two routes to the col leads from (l/a br.) Aiguehlanche (p. 338) via
(IV4 hr.) Doucy (3058 ft.), Les Oranges (40 min. ; 4313 ft.). La Croix-de-ChanU-
merle (30 min.). Let Eehappoux (i/a hr. ; 5967 ft.), and Le Biolay (50 min. ;
4290 ft.) into the valley of Gelliers, where we join the road (p. 328) at
the Roeet, I8/4 hr. from the col. ^ The other route, a little shorter, leads
from Aiguehlanche by (i/a hr.) Le Bois and (oOmin.) Let Avanehert
330 IV. Route 52, AIM£. TarentaiBe.
(p. 339) inta the valley of the Morel. It then runs to the W., via (2 hrs.)
Pierre-Fcrt (5836 ft.) and (IV* hr.) Riondet (7064 ft.), to (IV4 hr.) the col
(p. 328). The route from the col to (31/3 ^rs.) the summit follows the S.
ridge of the mountain. — The Gheval Noir may also be aseended in about
7 hrs. (guide) by the valley of Belleyiile, to the 8.W. of HoAtiers. The
route crosses the Doron bridge and ascends by (4 H.) FonUrine-le-FuiU and
(II/4M.) ViUarlf (3637 ft.; inn) to (V4 M.) SL Jeem-de-BeHevilU (S77S ft. ;
Bermond's Inn). Thence we proceed to the W., via (1 hr.) Dense -NamU
(4790 ft.) and the (1 hr.) Chalet d'OrgenlU^ into the OrgenUl YaUey^ whence
the summit is scaled in SVs'SVa hrs.
The Perron dea Zneombres (9378 ft.), farther to the S., in the chain flank-
ing the valley of the Arc, is ascended in 51/2 ^'s. (guide) from St. MarUn-
de-BellevUle (4527 ft.: inns), which lies in the valley of Belleville (see
above), 1-1 1/4 hr. higher than St. Jean. From St. Martin we follow a aide-
valley to the right, passing Oitamilon (3Va brs. ; 5895 ft.), Genouillet, and
Casse Blanche (I/2 hr.), to (IV4 ^r.) the R^vge de Sau$$at of the F. A. C,
1/4 hr. below the Ool det Encombres (7668 ft.) , between the Perron to the
right and the Col de Laekemonde (8757 ft.) to the left. The top of the Perron,
reached from the club-hut in IV4 br., commands a view inferior to the
already mentioned peaks. From the col we may descend to (31/3*^ hrs.)
St. Uichel-de-Maurienne (p. 314).
62. The Upper Valley of the Is^re and its Mountains.
I. From Volition to Tignes and to Val-d^Istoei vik Bourg-
St-Maurieo.
17 M. to Bourg- St -Maurice. Diligevcb (3 fr., bancjuette 4 fr. ) four
times a day in 81/2-4 hrs. Thence a mall-gig plies daily in 2 hrs. to (7 M.)
Ste.Fop(f&Te iVa/f)! *nd In summBr (July 1st -Sept. 16th) a public con-
veyance runs to (30 M., in 6V4 brs. ; back 4V4 hrs.) Vahd^Ittre^ starting about
5 a. m. From Ste. Foy to Val-d^Isere on foot, about SVs hrs. A mule from
Ste. Foy to Tignes or Val-d^Isfere should not cost more than 10 fr. includ-
ing the attendant^ all the way from Bourg-St-Maarice a mule would cost
only 12-15 fr. — Passport^ see p. 301.
Motitiers, see p. 328. The road ascends the right bank of the
UerCy which turns to the N.E., and is quite as striking in this upper
portion of its course as it is below Moutiers. Beyond (3 M.)
St, Marcel is the Detroit du Ceix, a deflle with three short tunnels.
On the right is the little village of Centron, on the site of the an-
cient town of the same name. Then another deflle, with Mont Jovet
{p. 329) to the right. — 7 M. ViUette. Farther on, to the right, are
the glaciers of Mont Pourri (p. 331).
8V4 M. Aime (2135 ft. ; Hot, desAlpet, du PetU-St- Bernard,
du Lion d'Or), the Axuma of the Romans, is now only a village. It
has some inscriptions and other interesting antiquities. The old
church of St. Martin is built of antique materials.
A good road, in part practicable for carriages, leads to theN. to
(7 hrs.) Beaufort (p. 337), over the (4 hrs.) Col or Cormet d'Arlehes (about
6560 ft.), to the N. of the Cr^ du Rep (8660 ft.), the ascent of which is, how-
ever, shorter from ViUette (see above). It commands a wide view to the K.
The ascent of Mont Jovet (p. 339) is somewhat shorter from Aime
than from Moiltiers. We cross the bridge over the Isire and follow a
good bridle-path vift Longefoy^ to the S.W. ; thence a path ascends to the
S. by the Lake and Col du Jovet. — The Mont St. Jacques (7884 ft. ; 5 hrs. \
easy and interesting), and the Pierre Menta (8807 ft. , 6-7 hrs. ) may also
be aseended from Aime. To the Roignait (0845 ft.), see p. 331.
!rdreniai8t. BOURO-ST-MAURICE. JT. tt(mt€,&2. SSi
The road now follows the slope of a mountain on which a con-
siderable landslip took place in 1897. High up on the right is the
village of Macot^ near which are some old argentiferous lead-mines.
— I2V2 M. Bellentre (Hotel Savoie).
About 71/2 H. to the 17. is Les Chapelles (4330 ft.; mght- quarters),
whence the Roignais (9845 ft.) may be aseended in 5 hrs. via (SVs i^^s.)
Lansevard.
About 3/4 M. from the village a path diverges on the right to (dl/o M.)
Landry and (3 M. farther) PaiMy (4365 ft. -, H6tel ColUn), a village with
abandoned lead and silver mines.
•Moat Pourri (12,430 ft. ; 10-11 hrs.), one of the chief summits of the
Tarentaise, alike striking in itself, in its situation, and in the view it com-
mands, has seldom been climbed, owing to (he length and difficulty of the
ascent. It is best made from this side, the night being spent at the
Re/uge du Mont Pourri of the F. A. C. (8694 ft.), 4 hrs. from Peisey. Thence
to the summit a difficult ascent of 6-7 hrs., via the Col du Pourri or Qrand
Col (9635 ft.). Or the ascent ^ay be made on the S. side (9i/a hrs. \ guide,
see p. 382), via the (81/4 hrs.) ChaUt* de la Plagne (see below ; night-
quarters), the aiaeier de» PlaHh-M, and the (2 hrs.) Pa* d« VEchelU. —
From ViUaroger^ on the N. side opposite St€. Foy (see below), the Col du
Pourri may be reached in 51/2 hrs., past the chalets of Thuria (6150 ft.).
The valley of Peisey forks beyond the village. Taking the left branch,
we pass (*/4 br.) the ancient lead and silver mines, and thence skirt the
SiMnmei de Belle-Cdte rll,225 ft. ; ascent, see p. 334) to the (2i/a hrs.) Cha-
let* de la Plagne (6890 ft. ; quarters) and the (IVa-^ hrs.) Col du Palet
(p. 333), by a -rough path leaving on the right the f(20 min.) Lae de la
Plagne^ and on the left the path to the Col de la Tourne (p. 334). — By
the right branch we may cross in 5 hrs. , via the (3 hrs.) Col de Frette
(8215 ft.), whence the Sommet de Belle -COte (p. 334) may be ascended in
3 hrs., to La Chiterette^ in the Champagny valley (p. 334).
The glaciers of Mont Pourri are seen to great advantage on the
right as we leave Bellentre. In front of us is the range which is
dominated by the Roc de Belleface (9B85 ft.) and the Lancebranlette
(96^ ft.), to the left of the Little St. Bernard (p. 306).
17 M. BoiiTg-8t-Maiiri«« (2805 ft.; Hotel det Voy agents or
Mayet, d^j. or D. 3 fr.) is a busy little place owing to its situa-
tion near the frontier and on the road to the Little St. Bernard.
To Courmayeur over the Little St. Bernard^ see p. 3('6. A . public con-
veyance pUes once daily to the hospice of the Little St. Bernard in 6 hrs.,
starting at 5 a. m. (fare 10 fr. ; return, see p. 306).
From Bourg-St-Hauriee to Les Chapieux via B&nneval.^ see p. 303.
— Bonneval-let-laina (3555 ft. ^ H6t, de* Bain*)^ with a mineral spring and
a small Bath Eetablithment ^ is only about 4 M. from Bourg- St -Maurice.
The waters resemble those of St. Gervais and Aix-les-Bains.
The road crosses the Torrent des Qlacien and the Rectus, which
descend on the left, and beyond (2 M. from Bourg-St-Maurice) Seez
(2965 ft^ diverges to the right from the Little St. Bernard route.
The snow-peaks at the head of the valley begin to come in sight.
7M. Ste. Foy (3460 ft.; *H6t6t du Mont -Blanc; du Mont-
Pourri; Oacon, well spoken of).
A path leads to the £. from Ste. Foy to (7 hrsj Valgri*anchet in the
valley of that name. It crosses the Col du Mont (8635 ft. ; about S^/i hrs.
from Ste. Foy)., between the Bee de l^Ane (10,560 ft. ; easily ascended from
the eol in II/2 hr.), on the left, and the Pointe d'Archeboc (p. 332), on the
right, and descends to (2 hrs.) Fornet*, where quarters for the night may
be obtained.
332 IV, B(ntte^S9. TIGNES. TartntaUe.
At (2V4 l^rs.) LaCrau a path diverges to the left from the path to the
Col du Mont and leads to the right to the Chalets de la Sastihre or Sachire
(6685 ft.), 31/2 hrs. from Ste. Foy, whence the *T«te du Rutor or RuUor
(11,445 ft.; with guide; fairly easy) may be aseended in Bi/a-T hrs. We
ascend by the Combe ^ the (21/2 hrs.) Okusier (about 8630 ft.), and the
(21/a hrs.) Col de VAveruet (about 10,600 ft.) , then mount the side of the
(I/4 hr.) Vedettes t several rocks beyond the frontier, to the great Olacier
du Rutor and to the (1 hr.) Col du Rutor (about 11,000 ft.). At this point,
where we join the ascent from Valgrisanche , is the Refuge De/ey of
the I. A. C. Splendid *View from the summit, about 1/2 hr. farther on. —
The ascent may also be made from La Thuile, to the N.W., on the road
to Prd-St-Didier (p. 306).
The Pointe d'Arobeboo (10,770 ft.) is easily ascended in 51/2-6 hrs. from
Ste. Foy. The route leads at first through wood, above the Tignes road,
and beyond La Thuille enters a valley, the last village in which is Le
Plan (7250 ft.), 4 hrs. from Ste. Foy. Thence we proceed to the N. E. by
the Lacs Verdet, The summit is on the frontier , overlooking the Olacier
de VOrmelune^ and the Val Grisanehe, on the Italian side.
9V2 M. La ThvMle (4175 ft. ; Mont-Vanoise Inn), a hamlet be-
yond which the valley gradually contracts and increases in grandeur.
High up on the opposite bank is La Crwrra (5215 ft.), with its hand-
some church -tower; numerous silvery torrents descend from the
glaciers of MontPourri. At (13 M.) Le BioUy we cross the gorge
of the Nant Cruet ^ which forms a beautiful waterfall. — 14 M. Les
Brevieres (5157ft.; H8t. des Alpius), a hamlet situated on a little
plateau commanding a fine view (ascent of the Grande - Sassiere,
see p. 333). Our road threads another imposing ravine and crosses
the Isere to the hamlet of La Chaudanne,
16 M. Tignes (5445 ft.; *mtel du Cluh Alpin; Hot, dea Tow
Hstes)^ a village on the left bank of the Isere, at the confluence of
the stream from the Lac de Tignes (p« 333), and opposite a beautiful
cascade formed by the stream descending from the Lac de la Sassiere.
The road next crosses the. river and asoenda in windings, leaving
on the left the hamlet of Franchet with its cliffs. Beyond a wild
ravine we pass the hamlets of Daille and Le Crey.
20 M. Val-d'Isdre, formerly Val de Tignes (6065 ft.; *Hdtel
Moris, at the bridge, R. Vj^-^^l^ fr., B. 80 c.-l fr., d^j. 3, D. 3V2,
pens. 10 fr.), a small village that has recently become a favourite
excursion-centre. Telephone to Tignes.
II. Excursions from Tignes and from Yal-d'Isdre.
Gomp. Jiapt p. 3i7.
Guides. Frid. Rond^ of Val-d*Isere ; Victor and Jean-Maurice Mangard^
of Fornet, 2 M. above VaI-d*Is^re (p. 335). There is no official tariff, and a
bargain (6, 8, or 10 fr. per day) should be made in each ease (comp. p. 339).
a. Fbom Tignes.
To the Lac de Tignes, a pleasant little excursion, 2 hrs. there
and back, by a path, steep but easy to find; see p. 333.
To THE QRAMDE-SASsiisB , a highly interesting but laborious expe-
dition (ascent 61/3 hrs.; euide, see above). The night is usually spent
at the Chalets de la Sassiere (see p. 338). Provisions must be taken. —
From Tignes we cross the Isere and ascend sharply on the right, coming
Tarmtaist, TIGNES. IV. Route 52. 333
aft^r about 1 hr. in sight of the summit of the Graode-SassUre , to the
:N.E., and a little farther on, beyond a fine waterfall, of the Pointe de Bazel
(p. 336), to the 8.E. From the (Shrs.) ChaleU de la Sattihre (7670 ft.) we
traverse a small plateau and then ascend to the left over steep slopes
coTered with d^bns to the (II/4 hr.) W. arSte (9730 ft.). In 1 hr. more
we climb a small cheminde, and V4 hr. later cross a small portion of
the glacier (10,754 ft.)., which is without danger. About 1/2 hr. farther
on we reach a difficnlt passage, which takes 1/4 br. to cross, and Anally
climb over detritus of slatey sandstone to the (S/4 hr.) summit. The
*Aifnille de la Graade-Sassiire (12,325 ft.) is one of the chief summits and
best view -points of the Tarentaise. To the N. appear Mont Blanc, the
Grand Ck)mbin, the Matterhom, Monte Rosa, and, in the distance, the
snow-peaks of the Bernese Oberland. At our feet lie the lonely defiles of
the Val Orisanche and the Val de Rhymes and the great glaciers of the
frontier. To the E. are the Grand Paradis, the Grivola, and the plains
of Lombardy, often hidden by mists. To the S.E., beyond the summits
whieh divide the valleys of the Is^re and the Arc. the whole horizon is
bounded by glaciers, from which rise many frontier - peaks more than
10,000 ft. high, from the Levanna to Roche-Melon and to Monte Viso in
the distance. To the S.W., where sparkles the Lac de Tignes, are the
Grande-Motte, the Grande-Casse, the Vanoise glaciers, Mont Thabor, and
the Alps of Dauphiny ; and nearer is the grand mass of Mont Pourri.
The Grande- Sassiere may be more easily ascended from Let BrMbres
(p. 38S), in 6hrs., vift Ghenal-Dessoug^ OfuncU - Dessus ^ and the Chalet de
Baltnot. The descent may be made by this route (3 hrs. instead of4hrs.
by the ottier route). — P^utage du J>dtne and Col de la BailUUa (Val-
d'lsere) , see p. 9&S. — Assent of the Orande-Motte^ via the Lac de Tignes
and the Col de la Leisse, see below and pp. 336, 341.
To Kotre-Dame-de-Rhemes (Aosta), 71/3 hrs. , with guide. From the
Chalets de la Sassi^re (see above) we continue to skirt the stream to the
(31/3 hrs. from Tignes) Lac de la Sasgiire (8026 ft.), a gloomy tarn fed chiefly
by the Glacier de la Goletta or de Rhemes. Hence we ascend to the
left by the glacier to the (1 hr.) Col de la Ooletta (10,050 ft.), erroneously
called Col de Rhime* (see p. 335) , between the E. spurs of the Grande-
Sassiere and the Tsanteleina, 4 hrs. from Tignes. Fine view, looking
back, of the Orande-Motte and Grande-Casse; on the right, of the Grand-
Paradis , etc. We descend to the chalets of Socket (about I1/4 hr.) and
then follow the valley to (21/4 hrs.) Noire- Dame -de-KMme$ or Rhimet-
Notre-Dame (inn, poor; accommodation at the cure's).
To BozEL (Pralognan; Moutiers) oveb the Col du Palet, about
81irs. , a fine and easy pass (guide unnecessary). A mule -path
ascends sharply, to the W. of Tignes, along the left bank of the
stream which descends ft'om its lake through a wooded and pic-
turesque ravine. In 1 V4 hr. we reach the La cdt Tignes (6850 ft.), a
pretty lake abounding in trout and fed by the glacier of the Orande-
Motte (p. 341), which rises boldly to the S. Fine retrospective view
of the Grande-Sassiere. Beyond the (V4 hr.) chalets at its IS. end,
we leave the path to the Col de la Leisse on the left (p. 336) and
ascend the stony slopes to the right to the (1 '/4 hr.) Col du Palet
(8720 ft.). Beyond the pass is a small and desolate plateau, whence
a path descends to the right, past the little Lac de Oratelo, to the
Vol de PeUey (comp. p. 831). Keeping to the left (S.W.), we ascend
for a few min. to the Croix des Fretes (8945. ft.), the culminating
point of the pass to Bozel. To the N. rises Mont Pourri (p. 331), to
the S. are the Bochers de Pramecou (11,250 ft.) and the glaciers of the
Grande-Motte and Grande-Casse. We descend steep grass slopes to
334 IV. Route 52. TIQNES. Tarentaist.
the (IV2 111'.) chalets of La P^o^ne (6650 ft.) , near a small lake,
giving rise to the Premou stream, which we now follow. We then
enter another ravine (^4 hr.) and finally descend hy zigzags {^/^ hr.).
Opposite rises the Orand-Bec de Prdlognan (see helow). Numerous
torrents descend from the glaciers, and farther on are two fine cas-
cades on the right. We cross the stream several times and pass (*/4 hr.)
Laisonnay (5145 ft.), (Vt ^^') Pi^^'^^i *nd (V4 hr.) Champagny-le-
Haut or Le Bois (4855 ft.; Hdt. Ruffter; guide).
The Orand-Beo de Pntlognatt (11^290 ft.) is ascended henee in 5 hrs.,
with guide. We eross ' the pastures to the K.E , towurds a depression
visible from the village, to the left of a rock , on which is a little snow,
at the (2V2 hrs.) base of the arSte to the N. of the peak. Thence in less
than 1/9 hr. we reach the Olader de la Beceu-MoUa^ and climb a rocky ridge
in the centre of it to the (2 hrs.) second summit, whence in a few minntes
we attain the culminating point, to the W. The panorama is not only very
extensive towards Savoy, owing to its isolation on the N. and its height,
but it also embraces the great summits of the Haurienne and Daupfainy,
Monte Viso, the Grand Paradis, etc.
The Bonunat de Selle-Odte (11,225 ft.), to the "S.^ is ascended in 4i/r5 hrs.
from Champagny-le-Haut^ via the Col dt FretU (p. 331) and the Olaeier
de Thioupe. Splendid view from the top, surpassing even that from the
Grand Bee de Pralognan. — Descent to Peisey, see p. 331.
Beyond Champagny-le-Haut we reach (10 min.) La ChUerette
(57(X) ft. ; guide), where we join the path flrom the Valine de Peisey
over the Col de Frette (p. 331). From this point the bridle-path
becomes a carriage-road and threads the striking Gorge of Cha/m-
pagny, where it is cut out of th« rock above the torrent which de-
scends in cascades far below. In V4 ^^' ^® reach Le Planay , a
hamlet belonging to Champagny and the birthplace of Pierre de
Tarentaise, better known as Pope Innocent V. (1276).
Pedestrians whose destination is Pralognan will find it shorter to
leave the road here and take a footpath, to the left of the chapel, which
crosses the stream and descends by the left bank till it rej^oins the road
at the beginning of the sigzags by which the latter deseends above Le
Villard (fi) min. ^ p. 338).
From (5 min.) Champagny -le^Bou (ca. 3940 ft.; Hot. Roche) the
road keeps at a considerable elevation on the right of the valley, leav-
ing on the right a path going direct to Le Villard (p. 338) ; it then
descends rapidly to the (1 hr.) road to Pralognan and Bozel (p. 338).
To Peisby ov£R the Col de la Tourkb or the Col du Palbt, 61/3-
7 hrs., with guide. The path is the same as the above as far as the Lac
de Tignes or the Col du Palet respectively. The Ool de la Tenrne (9270 ft.),
between the Rochert Rouges (9675 ft.) on the right, and the Rochen du
Cfiardonnet (9270 ft.) on the left, is more fatiguing but more interesting
than the Palet route. The two paths unite a little way down on the
other side and descend between Mont Pourri , on the right , and the
Sommet de Belle-Cdte, on the left (see p. 331).
b, Feom Val-dIs^be.
To the Lac db Tiombs (p. 833), 2l/a hrs., bridle-path via le Crep,
where we cross to the left bank of the Isere, the V(aiey of the Thouvih-i^
the Chalets and (il/2 hr.) Pas de la Thouvihre , whence there is a view of
Mont Blanc. — The Col du Palet^ etc., see p. 333. — Descent from the la\e
to Tignes (p. 382), V«-l hr.
Tcwentaiae, VAL DlSERE. IV, Route 62. 336
The Mcent of the *Gnuide-8aMitee (13,395 ft.) from Val-d*lsere takea
about s/4 ^'- more than from Tignes (p. 839). We diverge from the
road beyond the ravine and ascend past Franckei to the ChaleU de la
Stusihre (p. 333), where we join the route from Tignes.
The Boohers de 0«n«py (10,360 ft. ; about 5 hrs., with guide)
are ascended by the Valley of the Thouviere and the (2*/2 hrs.) Col
de Fresse (8495 ft.), then to the S. to the summit Splendid *View,
extending from Mont Blanc to the mountains of Dauphiny.
Point* deUSana (11,320ft.), 51/4 hrs., with guide, not diffi-
cult. We ascend the Valley of the Charvet, to the S., to (874 hrs.)
the Olaeier de la Barme'de-VOurs and to a col (10,200 ft.) on the
£. of the summit, which is gained by slopes of n^vd. Splendid
•View. The descent may be easily made on the S.W. to (SVj hrs.)
Entre-deux-Eauz (p. 340).
The ascent of the Tsaateleina (ll^dO ft.), to the N. E., is made in
about 6I/3 hrs. by the route on the S. side (for adepts only, with guide).
The more difficult ascent on the E. side takes Sl/o hrs. more. We follow
the road np the valley to (36 min.) Le Fomet (6350 ft.), and then prO'
ceed to the N. through pastures, leaving to the left, farther on, the path
to the Col de la Bailletta (see below). We ascend to the (I8/4 hr.) Flatemt
du Quart (about 8300 ft.), thence to a terrace with a lake , and, holding
towards the E., reach the (IV3 hr.) Glacier du Quart (about 9775 ft.). By
this elaeier and some rocks we reach the (3/4 hr.) Glacier de Quart-De»su»^
which brings us to a (ll/4hr.) depression known as the ColBobba (11,376 ft.),
between the Tsanteleina on the K. and the ^Gime de Quart-Dessus* (11,400ft.)
on the S. Thence an ascent np a snowy slope (difficult when the snow
is soft) and finally over easy rocks brings us in 1/3-I hr. (according to the
state of the snow) to the summit. The *View is very fine, ranging from
the Jungfrau on the N. to Monte Vise on the S.
The Ool de la Bailletta (9367ft.), mentioned above, is about 3 hrs.
lirom Le Fornet. It is crossed by the route to the valley of the Sassi&re,
the (II/3 hr.) Lae du Santet or Sauiet (9190 ft.), and the (*/4 hr.) Lae de la
Sastihre (p. 333). — Another col, affording a still more direct communi-
cation between Val-d*Isfere and the valley of the Sassiere, is the Passage du
Bdme (about 9186 ft.), at the head of the valley running to the V. from the
village. To the right of the Passage rise the Pointe du Front (9736 ft.)
and the D^me (9950 ft. \ 4 hrs.) \ to the left the Rochers de Franchet (9346 ft.)
and the Pointe de Picheru (9700 ft.), still comparatively untrodden ground.
To THB POIHTB DE BAZBL AND THB PoiVTB DB GaLABKB , tO the V. of
the Sources of the Is^re , in li/s *<^d 3l/s hrs. respectively from the Col
de Bheuies, which is reached in 3^/4 hrs. from Val-d^ls^re, with guide.
The route leads past (36 min.) Le Fornet (see above) and (1 hr.) the Chalet* of
St. Charles (6795 ft.), where we quit the valley (Sources of the Is^re, etc.,
see n. 336) and becin the ascent to (1 hr. 10 min.) the Col de Rhymes
(10,lt0 ft. ; comp. p. 333), which lies on the frontier between the two peaks.
Beyond the col are extensive glaciers across which we mav proceed to
(about 3 hrs.) the chalets of Soehes and Notre- Dame -de- Bhime$ (p. 333).
— The Pointe de Basel proper is, according to the natives of the district,
the summit ril,306 ft.) to the left of the col, whence it may easily be
ascended in I1/4 hr. -^ The Pointe de Calabre (10,750 ft.), to the right of
the col, requires ii/3 hr. for the ascent. Both peaks command fine and
extensive views.
To TUB Points db la Oalise, about 6 hrs., for adepts only, with
guide. Tn the (U/9 hr.) Chalelt de St. Charles ^ see above. The path
thence leads through the gorge called Malpasset to the (35 min.) Prariond
(7666 ft. \ chalet-refnge). Thenee we ascend to the left^ by moraines and
a small glacier, to the (3-31/4 hrs.) Col de la Oalite (9835 ft.), upon the
336 IV. Route 52, COLD'ISERAN. Tarentaise.
frontier, affording good views to the E. and W.'Cto CeresoVe, 0«e p. 33T).
The summit of the Pointe de la Galiae (10,975 ft. ; splendid *View), to the
If .E., is reached in about 2 hrs. more by the glacier, a difficult eouloir,
some very steep-rocks, and a snowy slope.
To THB CiMB JD'OiN AUD THB GrA.NDB AiOUIIjI/B R0US8B, WITH DBSCBKT
TO Bov)]EVA.L, a fine expedition without difficulty; 91/2 brs., with guide.
— To the (2 hrs.) Prariond^ see p. 335. The path continues to ascend
to the Sources of the Isire. Traversing a moraine and some turf-slopes to
the right of the Olacier de la (7a2«««, we cross the (li/j hr.) upper part of the
glacier (easy) to the left, and reach the (1 hr.) Col de la Vache (10,745 ft.),
on the frontier, from which we have a view of the bett^tifnl Lae CerrUy
to the K.E. A slatey arete ascends in 35 min. to the summit of the Cime
d'Oin (10,756 ft.), to the S. of the col. To the S.E., on Italian soil, rises
the Cime du Carro (10,860ft.); and to the S.W., on French soil, is the
Grande Aiguille Bousse (11,424 ft.). The summit of the latter is reached
in IVi^ hr. by d^soending to the (1/4 hr.) glacier , and thence as<;ending
an arete on the S. , to (V2 br.) a depression, known as the Col du
Bouquetin (oa. 10,800 ft.), to the E. of the Aiguille, the (S/4 hr.) top of
which is finally gained by another ar@te. The *View embraces the fron-
tier chain from the Tarentaise to the Maurienne, including the Hatterhom
and Honte Bosa, the Mts. of Dauphiny^ etc. — The Petite AiguiUe Bouste
(11,275 ft.) lies fully i/s hr. to the W. From the latter we return to the
(20 min.) depression , pass (V4 br.) between the Aieuille Rousse and the
AiguiUe de Omtiire (1(),475 ft.), and descend to the S. to the (1 hr.) GhaleU
de Lechans (p. 347), whence we follow the valley down to (2 hrs.) Bonne-
val (p. 346).
To BoNNEVAL VIA THB CoL d'Iseban, al)out 5 hrs.; bridle-path,
easy and interesting; guide unnecessary in settled weather; mule
to the col 7-8 fr., to Bonneval 12V2-15 fr. — We follow the Fornet
route (p. 335) as far as (10 min.) the houses of LaUsenant (6120 ft.),
whence the path ascends steeply to the right for about Va hr., partly
through wood, and crosses two streams. The next part of the route
is marked by heaps of stones. Fine retrospect as we ascend. The
Col d'lseran (9085 ft.; refuge -hut; 2 V2- 3 hrs. from Val-d'Isere)
is the principal pass between the upper valleys of the Isere and Ajtc.
The view from the col is limited, but a splendid prospect may be
enjoyed from the Signal du Mont-Jseran (10,635 ft.), i^j^'Sa. to
the N. E. of the pass. The descent is by the valley of the Lenta,
which forms three s,teep inclines, the last near the end. Magnificent
view of the glaciers and peaks from the Levanna to the Roche*-
Melon, the most conspicuous being the Pointe de PAlbaron,
opposite us. We cross the stream twice and descend finally to the
right to (2*/4-2V2 hrs.) Bonneval (3 hrs. in the reverse direction ;
p. 346).
To Enteb-deux-Eaux over the Col r>& la Lbissb, 6Va-7 hrs., with
guide. From the (21/2 hrs.) Col de Fre$$e (p. ^) we ascend to the
S.W. to the (1 hr.) Col da la Leisae (9110 ft.), to the E. of the Grande-
Hotte glacier. The descent is gradual into the VaUey of the Leisse^ between
the AiffuiUe de la Grande-Motie (12,015 ft.; p. 341), on the right, and the
Pointe de la Sana (p. 335), on the left. This valley, dull and desolate,
and dominated farther on by the Grande- Ca$se (12,665 ft.; p. 341), de-
bouches above Bntre - deux - Eaux (see p. 340). — Oveb thb Col db la
Eocheure . also ^y^-l hrs., with guide. We ascend by the Valley of tfu
Charvet^ finally across a small glacier, to the (81/2 hrs.) eol, to the E.
of the Pointe de la Sana (p. 836), whence we descend by the ValUm de la
Roeheure to Entre-deux-Eauz
Tarentaise. BRIDES - L^S - BAINS. / V. Route 53. 337
To Gbrbsolb bx thb Col i>b la Galisb, aboutOhrs., with guid«; fa-
tiguing. To the (4-41/4 hrs.) Gol de la GaUsi, see p. 335. We deaeend to
the left in less than 2 hrs. to the Chalets de Cerru (leavine on the left a path
leading into the Val Savaranche over the Col de Nivolet^ 8o64 ft.), and thence
follow the Oreo valley to (33/4 hrs.) Ceresole (5315 ft. \ hotels), with chalyb-
eate springs, on the N. side of the imposing Levanna range (p. 347).
63. From Mofltiers to Brides-les-Bains and to
Pralognan.
Gamp. Maip^ p. 827.
17 M. Dilioekcb, in connection with the railway in the season, and
Tramway to (38/4 M.) Brides -les- Bains (1 fr,, 50 c.). Hotel-omnibuses also
meet the trains. In summer (July 1st -Sept. 15th) public conveyances,
starting at 6 a. m. and 1.30 p. m., run from Brides to Bozel and Pralognan
in 5 hrs. (fare 5 fr. j to Bozel 2 fr.). The return- journey takes 3 hrs.
(start at 8.30 a. m. and 4 p. m. ^ fares 4, 2 fr.).
Moutiers, see p. 328. The road crosses the Isere and ascends
at first by the right bank of the Dor on de Satins.
1 M. Salins (1614 ft.; Hot. des Bains, first-class; Miege) is a
little village with a thermal establishment supplied by two spring!^
(96** Fahr.) , strongly charged with chloride of sodium (718 grains
per gallon). The waters are chiefly used for baths in scrofulous
and lymphatic affections. Many bathers reside at Moutiers (om-^
nibus). The establishment is subject to the same management and
tariff as that of Brides.
We now turn to the £., leave the picturesque Belleville Valley
(p. 330) on the right, cross the Doron, and ascend rapidly , with a
fine view of the northernmost glaciers of the Vanoise and of the
Orand-Bec de Pralognan (p. 334). Nearer risea the Dent de Villard.
3^4 M. Bridet-l6B-Bains. — Hotels. Grakd - HStbl dbs Thbbmes,
R. 3-7, B. ll/s, d^i. 31/2, D. 41/2, pens. 10-15 fr,; aBAHD-HoTBL Lapomt,
B. 3 , B. IV2, d^j. 3, D. 4 fr. ; Gr. Hot. dbs BAje^isuBS; Gbumbl, B. 2-5^
dd.j. or D. 3, pens. 6 fr. — Kineral Waters. Drinking , fee. for 1 day 75 c. •,
subseiption for the season 12, 2 pers. 22, 3 pers. 30, 4 pers. 36 fr. Baths^
11/2" 2 fr.; in large basin 41/2 fr., less for members of a party. — Casano
by the park, free for guests at the Hotel des Tbermes, for others 1 fr. a
day, 15 fr. for 25 days or 40 fr. incl. adm. to the theatre; ladies 5 fr. less.
— English Church Service in summer.
Bridet-lea-^ Bains {iSlO ft.) is a pretty little village, in a situation
far superior to Salins an'd probably on that account much p[iore
frequented. The water (97° Fahr.) is used for both bathing and
drinking, and is laxative and purgative, being especially good for
the treatment of obesity. The establishment is near the H8tel des -
Thermes, the spring a little farther on, on the bank of the river.
The season lasts from 15th- May to the end of September.
EzcuRsiOMS.' '^ 1)he Kent Jovet (8406 h. ) is ascended in 61/2 ^^^'
by the Modiiera route (see p. 339) or in 5 hrs. via (41/4 M.) Bosel (p. 338),
La Cour (31/2 M.; 5015 ft.), and the Vdllen des Reys^ through which the
chalet -hotel is reached in I1/2 hr. from La Cour. — To the Valleys of
CfArnnpajToy imd FraU>gnan, dee pp. 334, 838.
To the ValM« des AUims. From the Tillage of Les Jilttes (8700 ft.;
Baedeker. Southern France. 4th Edit. ^
388 IV.R<mte63, BOZEL. Tartntaise,
Meilleur) , 4^/3 M. from Brides , a good mule-track aaeenda the ralley to
(1 hr.) the hamlet of MuuiU4m , whence we may aaeend the Roeher de la
Lo£« (8310 ft. ; 3-31/3 hrs. ; see below) and the Croix de Verdon (fiOOO ft. \
ea.4 hrs.), two good view-points to the left of the valley. — About 21/3 hrs.
from Mussillon lie the ChdUt» du Fruit (6720 ft.), to the W. of the Aiguille
du Fruit (10,026 ft.), the aseent of wbieh is very difficult (Tl/a hrs. from
the chalets). — About V4 b'- beyond the Chalets du Fruit we reach
the ChaleU du Saut (7066 ft.), picturesquely situated to the E. of the
Points or Oroix da Yallon (9696ft.), an easy and interesting ascent, ac-
complished in 21/3 brs. from the Chalets de Gibrouku , which lie about
s/4 hr. to the right of the Chalets du Saut, via the S. £. slope. — The path
to the left at the Chalets du Saut leadi to two passes, both leading to
Pralognan (in 5 and 7 hrs. respectively), and both commanding fine *Views
of the glaciers of the Vanoise , viz. the Col de Chanrouge (8325 ft.) and
the Col Rouge (9210 ft.).
Beyond Brides the road continues to follow the left bank through
pleasant meadows and past the hamlets of St. Jean and Le Carray,
and recrosses the stream before reaching Bozel. On the right, high
up, 4^2 M. from Bozel, is the village of St. Bon (inn) , at the mouth
of a valley which runs parallel with the upper valley of the Doron.
8M. Boiel (2645 ft.; Hot^ Favre; de» Alpe» or Machet) is a
picturesquely situated village.
To Tignes via Champagny and the Col du Palely see p. 334. — Kxeur-
sions may be made from Bozel to the Mont Jovet (pp. 339, 337) ; to the Dent
de Villard (7516 ft. i 3 hrs. ^ easy), a wooded height to the S. E. ; or to the
Roeher de la Loze (8310 ft. \ 5 hrs. \ with guide), to the S. W. (4ea above).
We now skirt, to our right, the wooded range which culminates
In the Dent de Villard (see above), and leave on the left the Champagny
road. Beyond (10 M.) Le Villard (2836 ft.), at the confluence of the
Doron and the Pr^mou torrent , we mount rapidly by sigsags to an
altitude of 3600 ft, above the Gorge de la Ballande, This ravine,
which cannot be appreciated from the road, presents on the bank
of the stream some very curious clefts, said luow to be spoiled by the
erection of a factory. A path descends on the right at the first bend
of the road, and ascends again at Planay (see below).
12^^2 M. Planay. To the left is the Vointe de la Vuzelie (8460 ft.
3 hrs. from Pralognan), with its two torrents and inaccessible grot-
toes. — 14 M. Villeneuve , to the right of the road , at the foot ol
the rock of the same name (p. 339). After crossing the stream ^4 M*
farther on, in a small wooded ravine, we again come in aight of the
glaciers. On the right are the Dent Portetta (8640 ft) and the Roeher
de Plassag (9400 ft); on the left, the hamlets of Leg Oranges and
Darhellay, which form part of Pralognan, and a little farther on, be-
yond the church, Le Barioz.
17 M. Pralognan (4670 ft; Hot, de la Orande-Caese el du Petit-
Mont -Blanc, R. 3-6Vt, B. iVg, d^j. or D. 3fr.; de la VanoUe,
R. 2*liy B. 1, d^j. 2V2; I^* 3^/t fr.) lies in a small plain, at the con-
fluence of the Doron and th^Oliere, overlooked on the S.E. by the
abrupt buttresses of the Vanoite and the Grand and Petit Marchet
(8400 ft and 8430 ft.), from the former of which descend two line
waterfalls. Its situation at the divergence of the routes to the Col
Tarmtnise. PRALOGNAN. IV. Route 53. 339
d« la Vanolse (see below) and the Col de Chaviere (p. 342) ren-
ders Pralognan the hest centre for excursions in the Tarentaise.
Oitideb: *Abel and Vo*. AnUezy of La Croix; *Sirapkin and Marie-
Sii-aphin Oromier^ of Planay \ *J. A. Favrt ; J. B. and AMff. Amiez. — If bad
weather or the traveller'a inclination prerent him from undertaking an
ascent, he should at least visit the beautiful waterfalls in the neighbour-
hood and ascend towards the Gol de la Vanoise to beyond La Glifere
(see below) for the 89ke of the view of the Graade-Caase. About Vs br- to
the left of the road to the col is Mont Bochor (6644 ft. ; II/4 hr. from Pra-
lognan), commanding a view of the valley in the direction of the Gol de
Chaviere (p. 342). The path to the waterfalls leads to the right of the
house behind the Hotel de la Vanoiae, then to the left, and brings us in
1/4 hr. to the long Cascade de la Fraiche. About 5 min. farther on is the
Ceucitde du Orcmd-Marehet^ which falls sheer into a rocky fissure passing
beneath a natural areh.
A fine point of view may be reached by proceeding in the direction
of the Petit Mont Blanc (see below) to (10 min.) the Fond de ChollUre and
then mounting to the nearest ridge to the right. To the right we see the
glacier of the Arselin; in front, the Grande-Casse ; to the left, the double
Poiifcte de la Gliire.
Gorge fie> la BalUmde^ see p. 338} carriage 6 fr.
Szearuons from Pralognaa,
The following summits are all admirable view-points. — Petit Kont
Blanc (8810 ft.), to the right of the entrance to the upf»er valley of the
Doron, an easy ascent of 31/2 hrs. (guide 7 fr., not indispensable), past
Leg Planet (p. 341) and by a shepherds* track on the W., passing the (3 hrs.)
Col dee Saulce*^ or du lae-Blanc (7805 ft.). Descent on the S. to La Motte
(p. 343i easier) or on the W. side to (Sl/a hrs.) Bezel (p. 338). — Boeher
de ViUeneiive (7224 ft.), to theN.W., above Villeneuve (p. 338), 21/0 hrs.,
easy, vii La Croix, to the left of the road. — Booher de Plassas (9400 ft.),
a singularly shaped peak to the K. of the Petit Mont Blanc, 4 hrs. , with
guide (12 fr.). The ascent leads over the Col des Saulces and then by a
ridge, giddy in places. We may descend on the N. by the side of the
Dent Portetta. — Deat Perletta (8640 ft.), about 4 hrs., with guide (8 fr.).
We ascend the mountain by its £. flank and in 3 hrs. reach the entrance
of a. striking ravine. Then we ascend on the right by steep slopes to the
W. side, and finally from the K. side gain the summit.
Grand-Varchet (84(X)ft.), the left-hand one of the two rocky peaks
overlooking Pralognan, and from there apparently the lower of the two,
4 hrs. there and back, with guide (12 fr.); laborious. We make a ddtour
and by climbing a cheminee reach the (21/4 hrs.) Chalets du Petit-Mar chet,
whence we attain the Grand-Marchet chalets and the summit by another
cheminee.
To TSAMIGNON BT THE GOL DE LA VaKO^SB, ^^/^^S hrS. , a
good bridle-path. This is the most frequented pass between the
valleys of the Doron and the Arc (Maurienne). A guide (20 fr., 10 fr.
to Entre*deux-£aux) is not required in fine weather. A mule (15 fr.)
is convenient for the ascent and for crossing the col , but not for
the descent. We ascend to the left, passing (20 min.) the hamlet of
Fontanette and (1 hr. more) the La QlUre chalets (about 6640 ft).
Straight on, to the E., rises the steep Aiguillt de la Vanoise
(9225 ft.). In Vt ^^* fi'O^ the chalets we reach the Lac des Vachts
(7620 ft.). A steep ascent of 15-20 min. now follows, opposite the
Grande-Cane (p. 341); and in 20 min. more we reach the highest
point (cross) and a plateau with the Xac Long (3130 ft.)- Neaz the
22*
340 IV, Route 53. COL D£ LA YANOISE. Exeur»i<m»
end of the lake (20 min.)) on the right, beyond the Aiguille de la
y anoise , we see once more the mountains on the right bank of the
Dorou. On this side, between the foot of the Aiguille and the Lac
des Assiettes (usually dry) , is the Refuge de la Vanoise (8157 ft. ;
3 hrs. from Pralognan) , with a cantine. — The Col de la Yanoise
(8290 ft. ; Refuge Felix Faure , under construction) is at the end
of Lac Long , in the middle of a desolate plateau, surrounded by
mountains either quite bare or covered with glaciers, including
that of the Grande- Casse. The view is restricted. The path de-
scends a little, skirts two small lakes , and becomes indistinct at
the head of the stream which descends towards Termignon (stakes).
In V4 ^^' from the col we come in sight of £ntre-deux-£aux, at
the end of the plateau where the stream plunges among the rocks,
and descend by steep zigzags in */2 hr. to the Pont de la Croix - Vie,
Entre-deux-Eaux (7090 ft), near this point , 4-4 V4 hrs. from
Pralognan, consists of a few chalets, the highest on this side, with
two humble taverns , kept by Ed. and Jos. Richard. — For the Col
de la Leisse and the ascent of the Qrande^Motte, see p. 341.
The Termignon route now descends to the end of the Rocheure
Valley and crosses its brook (25 min.), leaving on the right the well-
nigh inaccessible ravine of the Doron de Termignon. To the right
rises the Ddme de Chasseforet (p. 341). We now ascend, past the
(Vs hr.) ChapeUe St, Barthelemy and the (20 min.) Fontaine Fraide,
. to (10 min.) a small col (7810 ft.), with a lakelet, 25 min. beyond
which a steep descent begins in view of the Chalets de ChavUre.
In 10 min. we regain the zone of pines , and enter a wooded
gorge; in 20 min. more we come in sight of Termignon; V4 ^'
short-cut to the left ; V4 hr. Le Villard and a bridge over the stream ;
10 min., fine cascade on the right, descending from the glaciers
of the Vanoise. In 20 min. more we reach Termignon (p. 343).
Pointe du Dard or Dar (10,715 ft.), the extremity of the rocky mass
of the Mont Pelvoz (10,740 ft.), which thrusts itself on the W. into the
Glacier de la Vanoise-, from Pralognan 7 hrs. , with guide (12 fr.). We
ascend by the Col dt la Vanoise to the K. of the mountain (3 hrs.) , then
turn to the S. to the (1 hr.) Glacier de la Vanoise^ which we cross. Fine
view of the Vanoise group and its huge glacier. — The Pelvoz (easy) re-
quires Va ^^- more.
Pointe de la BeehasM (10,676 ft.), near the N.£. end of the glaeier-system
of the Vanoise \ 6i/g hrs., with guide (13 fr.). We follow the same route
as for the preceding but turn to the £. on the glacier and ascend the
mountain on the 8. side. The view from the top is also very fine.
«Pointe de Oreuz-Volr (10,330 ft.), on the K.E. or left of the Col de Va-
noise route , about 5 hrs., with euide (13 fr.), via the Chalets de la Glikre
and the glaciers to the S. of the Pointe du Vallonet de la Glikre (see
below). Fine view of the upper Doron valley and the Vanoise range with
their great peaks : the Ddme de Chassefordt, Aic. de Polaet^ Aig. de Peelet,
Grande-Casse, etc. — The *Pointe du Vallonet (10,965 ft.), behind the Pointe
de Greux-Noire, affords a still more striking view, including also Mont
Blanc. The ascent takes only about Va hr. longer than the Pointe de
Greux-Noir, but is laboriou9 (guide 13 fr.).
Pointe de la OUAre (11,110 ft.), farther on in the sauye direction;
5Vvhrs., with guide (30 fr.); difficult. After the (3 hrs.) first lake we
'urn to the left and ascend towards a depression, beyond which we are
from Prcdognan. DOME DE OHASSEFORET. IV. Route 53. 341
(Vs ^^0 almost at the foot of ihe little glacier which descends between the
two summits of the Gli^re (second summit 10,870 ft.). In less than Vs hr.
more we reach the foot of the steep rocks to the left of the glacier,
ascend them, without difficulty, in 1 hr., and traverse the snow-fields
of the glacier, to the (1/2 !»'•) snowy depression between the summits,
whence 1 hr. more takes us to the top of the higher. The very fine *View
extends from the Hatterhorn, in Switzerland, to the ]^crins, in Dauphiny.
Grand-Bee de PrcUognan^ see p. 334 ; 8-9 hrs. from Pralognan ; guide 15 fr.
To THB Gsaitde-Gassb, 6-7 hrs. from the Refuge de la Vanoise (p. 340),
a first-class ascent, fit only for experienced mountaineers, with good guides
(30 fr. ; porter 30 fr.). We ascend at first by the Grande - Casse glacier,
requiring great care, and in 21/4 hrs. gain its third plateau. Then we
climb in 3V4 hrs. by the rocks on the left hand to a narrow ridge, trying
for those who are subject to giddiness, which leads in V3~V4 hr. to the
summit of the Grande-Oasse or Pointe des Orands-Couloirs (12,665 ft.), the
highest peak in the Tarentaise and Southern Savoy. The view is neither so
line nor so comprehensive as might be expected, owing to the fact that
the mountain, instead of being isolated, forms part of a mass of which
two peaks exceed 12,400 ft. and several others 11,(XX) ft.
To THB Grakde - MoTTE , 6V2 l^i'S. from Entre-deux-Eaux by the old
route,- 1 hr. less^ by the new route. This is one of the finest expeditions
in the district, and is comparatively easy with a good guide (30 fr., porter
20 fr.). The ascent may also be made on the Tignes side over the Col de
la Leisse, but it is less fatiguing from Entre-deux-Eaux. The old route
proeeeds first to the Col de la Leisse (9120 ft. ; 3^/4-31/3 hrs.), and thence
reaches the summit in about 3 hrs., by the glacier and the snow-slopes.
The new route, much more direct and preferable when the snow on the
£. side is likely to be in bad condition, leads up the S. slope. It di-
verges from the route to the col, reaches (IV4 ^^') & green height below
the 8. spur, and then ascends (21/4 hrs.) this spur, from which the summit
is gained in 20 min. more. — The *Aicuille de la GIrande-Kotte (12,015 ft.) is
the last great peak on the K.E. of the Vanoise range, and affords a grand
view to the K. as far as Mont Blanc. Kearer appear the mountains on the
frontier with their glaciers, the iGrande-Sassiere, the Tsanteleina, etc. \ to
the left, Mont Pourri and the Peisey Valley; to the S., the Arc Valley,
Monte Viso, Mont d'Ambin, Thabor, etc.
To THB D5mb de Chasseforet, 6-6V2 hrs., or 21/2*3 hrs. from the Refuge
des Lacs, where the night may be spent. This is a grand glacier-expe-
dition, very easy from this side (from Termignon, see p. 343), and highly
recommended, with guide (25 fr., porter 15 fr.). From Pralognan we as-
cend the Doron valley, past the chalets of (1/2 l>r.) Les Planes (5240 ft.),
where the path to the Petit Mont Blanc (p. 339) and the Col de Chanrouge
(p. 338) leads off to the right. At (I/2 hr. farther) Pritntx (5665 ft.) we
quit the route to the Col de Ghaviere (p. 342) and climb, on the left, the
S. slope of the valley to the (3 hrs.) GhaUU des Nanis (7250 ft.), 8/4-I hr.
to the N. of which is the Refuge des Lacs of the F.A.C. (8530 ft.). Still
proceeding to the N., we gain (I/4 hr.) a small plateau (8990 ft.), where
we turn to the B., across the Vanoise Olacier^ to (IV2 l^r.) the arete
(10,990 ft.) ; then, bearing to the S., we cross a glacier-plateau to (II/4 hr.)
the top. The *Dome de ChasseforM (11,800 fl.) forms, as it were, the centre
of the great Vanoise range, whose glaciers are more than 7 M. long and
4 M. broad. It is not, however, the highest point, as the Dent Parrachde,
at the S. end, attains 12,180 ft. The panorama includes, from left to right,
beginning at the N., Mont Blanc, Mont Pourri, Grande-Sassiere, Grand-
Bee de Pralognan, Grande-Casse, Grande-Motte , the Mont Iseran range,
and the mountains on the E. of the Arc valley, from the Levanna to the
Roche-Melon, Mte. Viso. Mont d'Ambin, Thabor, Dent Parrach^e, Aiguille
de Polset, Aiguille de P6clet, Pelvoux, iScrins, Mcije, and Grandes-Kous-
ses. — The return may be made by the Gol de la Vanoise (p. 340). This
is a glacier - expedition as far as the end of the plateau ; to the left are
the Poinie du Dard and the Pointe de la Rechasse (p. 340). — The descent
to Termignon is rather fatiguing. After crossing debris , to the right of
34!2 IV. Route 5S. COL DE CHAVIERB.
which are large crevasses, we descend by steep snow-slopes and a rock-
wall presenting a little difficulty, and after about 2 hrs. quit the glacier.
In 1 hr. more we reach the Chrangtt de VArponi (7370 ft.), whence a
pleasant path, skirting the Dent Parrachde high above the Doron, leads
to (ii/2 hr.) Le ViUard (p. 340), below which we join the route from the
Vanolse to Termignon (p. 3^).
To THE A10CII.LB DB PoLSBT (PicUt)y 9-10 hrs. or only 6l/y7 lirs. if we
spend the night at the chalets of La Motte or of Ritort. Guide 30, porter
I'i fr. To the Plancoulour chalet (SVs brs.)^ see below. Thence we climb to
the right by very steep slopes to the plateau of the (1 hr.) small Lac Blanc
(8200 ft.); then to the W., over debris, to the (li/s hr.) first snow, and to the
S.W. by the glacier, where there are crevasses, to the (3 hrs.) Col de Oibrouku
(11,330 ft.), which is to the N. of and 1/2 hr. below the summit. The AicviUe
de Polset (11,600ft. ; p. 315) forms, with the AiguiUe de Piclet (11,700 ft.), the
last important mass on the W. of the Tarentaise mountains, and for this rea-
son it affords the best view of the Dauphiny mountains, including the Grandes-
Konsses, Aiguilles d*Arves, Meije, Ecrins, Pelvoux, and Ailefroide. The
view also includes most of the great summits visible from the neighbour-
ing heights and especially of the great Vanoise range. The descent
may be made over the Col de Ghavi^re (see below).
To HoDAKE OVER THE GoL DB Chavi&hb, 9-10 hrs., guidc (30 fr.) un-
necessary in fine weather-, porter as far as the col 10 fr.*, mule and
attendant 13 fr. This route is the shortest way of regaining the railway \
in the opposite direction it requires 10-11 hrs. (to the col 0I/4 hrs.). As
far as the (I1/2 hr.) second bridge the road is practicable for light vehicles,
but beyond that it becomes a footpath , which by - and • by disappears
and is found again with difficulty on the other side of the col. — To
(1 hr.) PriouXy see p. 341. We leave the path to Les Kants and Ghasse-
foret on the left (p. 341), cross the torrent twice, and climb to the plateau
on which are the (1 hr.) Chaleis of La Moitt (6335 ft.), and whence, to the
left of the snowy Aig. de Polset, the Col de Chaviere is first seen. The
bridee and (I/2 hr.) huts of Biitort (6470 ft.) lie to the left; thence ovel- the
Col d'Austoii (9850 ft.) into the Arc valley , see p. 315 (to Modane 5-6 hrs.).
Farther on, to the right of our path, is the Col Rouge (p. 388). The path
becomes indistinct, especially after passing the (1 hr!) chalet of Plam-
coulour (7270 ft.), whence the ascent of the Aiguille de Polset (see above)
may be made ; but on surmounting the next slope the beacon on the eol
comes into view. Beyond the second cairn we reach the (3/4 hr. )
snow. Mont Blanc is now in sight, and. after 1 hr.''s steep climbing
we reach the Ool de Chavitoe (9205 ft. ■, 5 hrs. from Pralognan), forming
a slight depression in the ridge which connects the AiguiUe de Polset
(see above) with the Pointe de V£ch€Ue (p. 315). Towards the S. may now
be seen Mont Thabor, Monte Viso, and the Dauphiny Mountains. — The
descent is at first somewhat steep and rough, but we soon arrive at some
pastures and bear tc the right towards a valley which we have already seen
from the col. We must avoid descending too far, as the path keeps high
above the left bank of the torrent, and is struck again, U/s hi*- from the
col, on a level with the last leap of the fourth Cascade descending from the
Ghavibre Glacier. At the end of this glacier is the Pointe Rinod (p. 315).
We next skirt a precipitous cliff, pass below the first pine<trees, bear to
the left, and reach the (S/4 hr.) hamlet of PoUei (593o ft.), beyond which
begins a long Kigiutg descent through the woods, at times very rough and
steep. After about V2 lii*- ^e see the railway-works near the entrance of
the Mont Genis Tunnel, the Fort du Sappey which commands it, and Modane.
now 1 hr. distant. In 35-40 min. we emerge from the wood, and a walk
of 1/4 hr. brings us again to the torrent, before reaching (10 min.) Loutrax.
We bear to the right, cross the (5 min.) Arcy and pass under the railway.,
which makes a circuitous bend round Modane in order to reach, higher
up on the right, the Mont Cenis Tunnel (p. 315). Those who do not wish
to stop at Modane (p. 314) find a short-cut to the (30 min.) station by skirting
the line to the right.
343
54. The Upper Valley of the Arc and its MoHntains.
Comp. Map, p. 330.
From Ghamb^ry to Modane, 60 M. , Railway in 23/4- 3 V4 ^rs. (fares
11 fr. 20, 7 fr. 50, 4 fr. 90 c). From Xodane to Bonneval^ 281/3 M., public
eonveyance daily, starting at 8 p.m., in 6Vs ^t^^- (fareSVg^r. ; return in
41/4 ^T^»-> starting At 7 a^ m.).
The valley lof the Arc, whieh forms a kind of erescent from N.W. to
S.E. between the mountains of the Tarentaise (p. 328) and those of Dau-
phimy and the Italian frontier, is known as the Kauxienne (p. 818). The
ehief interest for tourists in the upper valley of the Are is afforded by
the mountains on the frontier beyond Lans-le-Bourg ; but unlike the Ta-
rentaise, this district does not by any means present a smiling aspect.
There are no glaciers on this, the S. side of the mountains, like those of
the Vanoise on the N., and glaciers appear on the right-hand slopes only
towards the end of the valley. The Haute Haurienne also has fewer
arrangements for tourists than the Tarentaise, and the traveller must rely
upon his own resources unless he is prepared to pay large sums for
carriages and porters, for which there is no tariff (comp. p. 329).
Chambery, see p. 312. Thence to (60 M.) Modane and excursions
from Modane, see R. 48.
The road through the upper valley of the Arc, which turns
to the N. E. at Modane , follows the left bank of the river for some
distance. It passes above (2V2 M.) Villarodin {AOQS ft.) , and then
through a defile commanded by the Forts de I'Esseillon (4975 ft.).
The Aiguille de Soolette (11,500 ft.), rising on the frontier, to the S.,
may be ascended in 7 hrs. (with guide) , by the Nani de Ste. Anme, the
H&rtiire, and Au VcMon. Fine view from the top.
The valley widens. Leaving Bramana on the right, we cross the
torrent of <Sf. Pierre, which descends from the narrow yaWowd'Amftm.
Through this ravine we may proceed past the chapel of Noire-Dame
de la Dilivrance and the ruined church of St. Pierre d'' Exiravache to the
(2 hrs.) hamlet of Le Planais (5410 ft.), beyond which the Savine glen with
its chalets (7287 ft.; IV2 hr.) diverges to the left. From Le Planais easy
passes cross the Col d'Etache (2787 ft.) to (61/2*7 hrs.) Bardonnhche i^.3l6)\
the PeM Mont Ceni$ (7166 ft.) to (31/2-4 hrs.) Let Taii>iirnettes (p. 344); the Col
de Glapier (8173 ft.) to (7-8 hrs.) iSusa; and the Col d'Ambin (9364 ft.) to
(7-8 hrs.) Exilles , on the Mont Cenis line. From the Savine chalets we
may ascend the Cima Giusalet (10,890 ft.), the Dents d'^Afnbin (highest peak
or Aiguille de Savine 11,095 ft., Mont d'Ambin or PMnte de VAgnel 11,080 ft.),
etc. Befuge-hut of the I. A. G. at the foot of the Olader de VAgnel.
Beyond Le Verney (Croix Blanche) we cross the Arc and reach
(10 M.) SoUieres. Fine view from the Chalets de Mont-Froid (7475 ft),
3 hrs. to the S.E., on the slope of Mont Froid (9300 ft.).
11 M. Termignon (3870 ft.; Ijion d' Or, good), a village at the
confluence of the Arc an<i Leisse. The church contains three gilded
altars, in the Italian style.
Excursions (guides. Dupori, Pantin; porter, Jos. Oros). To Pralognan
over the Col de la Vanotse (5 hrs. fully to Entre-deux-Eaux), not so inter-
esting as; in the reverse direction; see p. 340. Another route leads over
the Ddme de Ghaueforit (p. 341), but the ascent is less easy oii this side
and should be made only by good walkers with trustworthy guides.
To the Dime de PArpont (11,865 ft.), to the S. W. of the Dome de
Ghasseforet, which is 66 ft. lower, in6V4-7hrs., via the (1I/2 hr.) chalets
of Le Monty then by an arete to the W., the (21 /j hrs.) Olader de VArpont
(crevasses), and the N. side of the mountain. The *View is still more
extensive than that from the Dome de Ghasseforet (p. 340). The descent
may be made to (5 hrsi) Pralognan, via Les Nants (p. 341).
344 /F. Route 54. BESSANS. Upper Valley
The road ascends and then descends into a wooded rayine. Fine
retrospect of the Dent Parrach^e (p. 315).
16 M. Lans-le-Bonrg (4585 ft.; *Valloire; Jorcin), a little town
which has decayed since the opening of the Mont Cenis tunnel.
The Mont Oenia Road, made in 18(^10 by order of Napoleon I., and
formerly much used, is now traversed by public conveyances from Lans-
le-Bourg to the Hospice (5 p.m.; Sl/shrs.; fare 3 fr.) and thence to
Snsa (4 p. m. ; 2 hrs. \ 8 fr.). From Lans>le-Bourg to Susa is 33 M. The
road at first ascends gradnally in six great zigzags, across pastures.
Pedestrians save V4 hr. by a footpath. The view of the P^clet, Vanoise,
and Levanna ranges is fine. The wind here (^la Lombarde*) is often of ex-
treme violence, and 23 shelter-huts are placed at intervals along the road.
The summit-level (6893 ft.) is at the 5th refuge (Ko. 18), 25 min. beyond
the last zigzag; and the frontier is crossed between this refuge and the
next. Farther on are the inns of i^ Ramasse and Les Tavemettts (6445 ft.).
— 9M. Hospice du Jf<m<-On<< (6360 ft.), founded by Louis I. the Pious
(d. 8^), rebuilt by Napoleon I., and now a barrack. Close by are a Hotel
and a small Lake, from which the Genise issues. From the hoapice we
may ascend the Pointe de Ronce (11,870 ft.*, 5 hrs.) and even the Roche-
Melon (p. 346). — Beyond (11 M.) La Grande-Croix (6070 ft. ; inn) is a fine
waterfall of the Cenise. The road descends very rapidly (footpaths
shorter; fine view). — I61/2 M. Jfolaret: 20 M. Oiaglione or /a«Ho». — 23 M.
S*wt (Albergo del Sole). Gomp. Baedeker^t Northern Italy.
From Lans-le-Bourg to the Grand Boo Koir (11,605 ft.) and the Point*
de Yallonet (11,700 ft.), 6 hrs. to the former and thence 1 hr. more to the
latter, fatiguing but not very difficult. We leave the road at Let Champ*,
30 min. before reaching Lans-le -Villard , and ascend to the N., at first
between two valleys, and then by the N. £. face of the mountain to the
foot of the Grand Roc Noir, to the E. Thence to the top, 1/4 hr. — The
Pointe de Vallonet lies farther to the N. From the base of the peak of
the Grand Roc Noir we follow a snow-arete to the E., and descend a
little to the N. in the direction of the Pointe, which is scaled in 1/2 hr.
more. Fine view. — In returning we may join the route from Bonneval
to La M agdeleine (see below) in 31/2 hrs. from the base of the Grand
Roc Noir, by the adjoining glacier and (II/2 hr.) the Chalets de la Fesse.
The carriage -road leading to Bonneval, which quits the Mont
Cenis road at the bridge at Lans-le-Bourg, also crosses farther on to
the left bank of the Arc, but soon recrosses to the right hank.
18 M. Lans-le- ViUard (4850 ft.). A steep zigzag ascent brings us
in sight of the peaks and glaciers at the head of the valley. On the
left are rugged escarpments, attaining 2600 ft. in height. These
form the back of half-a-dozen glaciers descending towards the Ro-
cheure valley (p. 336) and overlooked by the Pointe dti Qrand-
Vallon (10,590 ft.), the Grand Roc Noir, the Pointe du Vallonet,
the Pointes du Chdtelard, and the Croix de Don- Jean- Maurice (see
p. 345). On the right is a long glacier, which crosses the frontier,
and above which rises the Pointe de Ronce (11,870 ft.). Besides the
road there is a footpath on the left bank which also leads to Bessans.
The road quits the torrent and for a time is separated from it by a
slight hill, beyond which we find ourselves in a verdant basin. The
hamlets of Le Mas, La Magdeleine, and La Chalpe are passed.
2872 M. Bessans (5645 ft.; Cimaz'slmi, at the hridge), a hadly
huilt village on the left hank, to which the road now crosses. The
Church contains some fine carvings and statuettes (in wood) on the
altars, by Clapier (18th cent.). The chief attraction, however, is
of the Are. POINTE D'ALBARON. IV. Route 54. 345
a Chapel, with curious frescoes of the 16th centulry and a fine
ceiling of painted wood.
Excursions. Oroiz de Bon-Jeaa-Kaorico (10,900 ft.), dl/ghrs. The path
diverges to the left from the road, aseends the slopes of the mountain, and
then crosses the Otaeier de Mian-Martin^ 3/^ hr. from the summit, which is
surmounted by three crosses. — Aiguille de Kten-Kartin (10,790 ft.), 51/4 hrs.
We follow the above route to the (SiA hrs.) glacier, then turn to the N.W.
towards (3/4 hr.) a kind of col (10,185 ft.) to the left of the peak, which
is scaled in 3/^ br. more. The descent may be made in about ^/g hrs.
to Val-d'Isere (p. 333). — Pointes da Ohatelard (11,090 ft. , 11,366 ft. , and
11,496 ft.) , about 7 hrs. , also by (33/4 hrs.) the Glacier de M^an-Martin.
Crossing the glacier from £. to W., we ascend to (about 1 hr.) the Col de
Vifreiie (10,500 ft.), to the N. of the hottest Pointe^ which is thence easily
ascended in 3/4 hr., over the arete. We descend to the depression beside
the Second Pointe^ the top of which is reached in 8/4 hr. ; and finally we
follow a snow-arete to the (I/2 hr.) Third Pointe^ the highest peak on this
side of the valley, with the exception of the Grand Roc Noir (p. 344). The
last, however, is not near enough to interfere with the fine view, which
is open on all sides (practically the same from all three summits). — In
descending to (31/4 hrs.) Entre-deux^Eaux (p. 340), we return by the Olader
de Vifrette and the (U/a h*") ^«Wo« de la Rocheure; the descent to (!^/2 hrs.)
Lans-le-Bourg (p. 344) leads past the Chaletg de la Fesse (p. 344); and the
descent to (about 5 hrs.) Bonneval (p. 346) crosses the glacier to the (1 hr.)
Col de Vifrette^ recrosses the (1 hr.) Glacier de Mian-Martin^ then runs to
the S. by the left bank of the VaUon^ and Anally leads to the N.E. via the
Chcaets des Roches (7380 ft.).
*Point6 de Charbonel (12,335 ft.), 6-7 hrs., an easy ascent, with guide.
There is a choice of routes. We may proceed by the gloomy Valley of
Ribony to the S.E. , as far as the (IV4 hr.) Pierre-Grosse chalets (6760 ft.)-,
then to the E. over poor pastures and debris to the arete and the GfMr-
bonel Glacier. Or we may follow the smiling Avirole Valley^ parallel to
the valley of Ribon a little beyond Bessans on the right of the Bonneval
road, whence we attain the Glaciti' de Charbonel on the S.E. Between
Mont Blanc and the Meije the only summits higher than- the Pointe de
Charbonel are the Grande-Casse (p. 341) and Mont Pourri (p. 331). It is,
moreover, an isolated mountain and afibrds in consequence an unusually
fine panorama of the whole of the Danphiny and Savoy Alps, the Gran
Paradiso, etc.
*Pointe d'Albaron (12,015 ft.) , called Pointe de Chalanson on the gov-
ernment map , which assi|;ns the name Albaron to a neighbouring summit
locally known as the Potnte du Grand-Fond (see below), 71/2-8 hrs., an
easy ascent, with guide. We a.scend ihe Avirole Valley (see below), cross
the stream at (1/2 hr.) La Goulas , and 10 min. farther on ascend to the
left towards a spur of the mountain, marked by (40 min.) across (view).
Thence we proceed to (I/4 hr.) the Granges du LaUy ascend a valley to the
V.E.^ crossing the (1 hr.) Grand-Fond torrent (waterfall), and continue to-
wards the (3/4 hr.) moraine of the Grand-Fond glacier (ca. 88!35 ft.), which
commands a fine view. We next pass to the left of the OuiUarse (12,000 ft.)
and in 1 hr. more reach the great Glacier du Grand-Fond, to the S.W. of
the Pointe, where caution is necessary in the absence of snow. Thence
to the summit 3 hrs. more are required. The panorama, similar to that
from the Pointe de Charbonel, is one of the most striking in the Alps. —
The descent may be made on the Bonneval side (5-7 hrs.), either by the
fine Glacier and Col des EveUes, to the E. of the OuilU du Midi (10,090 ft.),
or, somewhat shorter, by the same glacier and the Col du Gre/fier (10,210 ft.;
fine view), after which there is, on the side of the Chardonnikres (or Val-
lonet) Glacier^ a couloir so steep as to be impracticable unless there is
plenty of snow. — The Point* du Orand-Fond (11,390 ft.), the- Albaron of
the government map (see above), is ascended in ^/ahrs., through the Avirole
Valley and the Granges du Lau (see above), and thence past the (21/2 hrs.)
ChaUU de la Parte ^ and the left side of the mountain.
346 IV, Boutc 54. BONNEVAL. Upper ValUy
*BMh6-]|ttl«n (11,605 ft.)^ Tl/s hrs., with %mde. The route leads up the
Ribon valley (p. 345), past the chalets or hamlets of (I1/3 hr.) Pierre-Orosse^
Qiaffa, Saussiery and (1 hr.) rArselle (7090 ft.), to the foot of the Roche-
Melon (Hader (1 hr. ; 7430 ft.), whieh we cross. The panorama from the
summit is magnificent, and particularly to the tourist coming from the K.
it afi'ords a novel view of the Italian side of the Alps. On the Roche-Melon
we are already on Italian soil. A little chapel on the summit is much
visited by pilgrims on Aug. 15th (Assumption of the Virgin). — We may
descend to (5 hrs.) Sum (p. 344).
From Bessams to Lambo (Turin)^ 15-16 hrs. according as we proceed over
the Col dtt Collerin, the Col d'Arn^, or the Ool de TAutaret, all lying to
the E. on the frontier. Guide indispensable. The last of these pMMss is
the easiest. Through the Avirole Valley (p. 345) , m Car m «fae (iS/4 hr.)
hamlet of AviroU (6675 ft.), the patii to «U ttoee cols is the same.
Tlience we eUmh to the V.fiL. ha Si/j Ins.., to the Col de CoUezin (10,620 ft.),
to the 8. of JTMfl OoderM (11,430 ft.) and in the midst of glaciers. We
next descend to (5 hrs.) Balme (inn), in the Stura dTAla ValUy^ at the
end of which we turn to the right into the valley of Lanxo (see below).
— The Ool d'Amto (9955 ft.) , to the S. of the Pointe d'Amii (11,615 ft.),
lies to the E., in the direction of the main Avirole valley and 4 hrs.
from the hamlet. To reach it we have to cross a corner of the Olaeier
d'Arnka. We then traverse the (Vs l^r.) Col de la Roua (9350 ft.). The
descent past the Lac delta Rosea takes 41/9 hrs. to Ueeeglio (4150 ft.), where
the path mentioned below is joined. — The Col de I'Autaret (10,115 ft.), to
the S.E., reached in about 3 hrs. by the Vallon de la Lombarde, is crossed
by a path practicable for mules. We descend through the ifaleiauuia
Valley^ which the Roche-Melon (see above) overlooks on the W., to (5 hrs.)
UuegliOy and thence to (3 hrs.) Fi'6, whence a road leads to (2 hrs.) Lanzoy
a small town connected by rail with (20 M.) Turin.
The road to Bonneval keeps to the left bank of the Arc all the
way. A little beyond Bessans it passes the end of the Avirole valley,
where the Pointe de Gharbonel (p. 345) rises majestically on the
right. Farther on, to the left of the road, is the Rocher du Chdtel
or Bec'Rond (6065 ft.), which has already come into view on the
right bank of the stream. Then a waterfall and the Pointe de
Mean- Martin (p. 347). We cross the last bridge and reach —
28V2 M. Bonneval (6020 ft.; Chalet-Hotel of the F. A. C, V4 M.
farther on, well spoken of; telegraph-offlce), a poor village, situated
in a little valley which still produces barley and rye, but where
the winter is very severe.
Guides, */ilanc, surnamed the 'Greffier ; /. J. CuUt ; J. M. BUme; 6, 8,
or 10 fr. per day. Mule and attendant 8 or 10 fr.
To (5-51/2 hrs.) Val-d'/»ire over the Col d'lseran^ see p. 336. The route
does not skirt the Arc, but passes above the village and the hotel and
leads to the E., in the direction of the VaUey of the Lenta. — A fine
route (10-12 hrs., with guide) leads to Val-d'Ishre over the Col du Bou^uttim
(p. 396) and the glaciers at the Sources of ihe Mre (p. 386).
EzcuBsiOHs. — Pointe dea Axsee (10,510 ft.), about 4 hrs. to the N..^ aa
easy excursion. We follow the route to the (3ol dlseran for 1 hr., thea
turn to the right over pastures and debris •, or proceed by the right bank of
the Arc and the (2 hrs.) Plateau dea Lauze* (8666 ft.). The tourist should
go at any rate as far as this plateau for the sake of the view, espeeially
that of the glaciers on the Italian frontier. — The OuUle Noire (11,935 ft.X
to the N. of the Pointe des Arses, is also recommended as a flue and
comparatively easy climb (see p. 347).
Aiynille Fera (11,330 ft.), more disUnt, to the right of the Gol d'Iseraa,
6 hrs. The route follows that to the Col d'Iseran as far as (3i/4 hrs.)
the last ascent and thence continues by the valley of the I^enta to the
(is/^far.) Gol Pert (9880 ft.), which commands a Ane view. We th^aee
of the Ate, BONNET AL. IV, R&uit 64, 347
proceed to the £. to (V4 hr.) a peak marked 3917 mitre* (1(^,880 ft.) and
(I/9 hr.) tmoihet of 3399 tn. (ll,loOft.), both easily climbed. The summit
is reached in I/2 hr. more ; beantifnl *yiew. The descent may be made
to (23/4 hrs.) the Chalets de Lechans (see below), by the Okuier du Orcmd-
Pi**aitta$ and the (V4 br.) Colde VOtviUe- Noire (10,690 ft.). to the M. of
the peak of that name (see p. 346).
Pelaou-Blane (10,390 ft.), the chief summit to the W. of the valley of
the Lenta Cp. 316), 4L/s-5 hrs., with guide. We first follow the Col d'Iseran
route (p. 396), but beyond the (3Vs bi's) second bridge turn to the S.W.
to the 0/3 hr.) glacier to the £. of the peak. We ascend the glacier in
the same direction to (I-II/4 hr.) the Col de* Fours (9800 ft.), whence the
summit, to the TH^ is sealed in Vs b^- "^^^ descent may be made to
(31/a hrs.) Val-d'Isfere.
Poiate d« KAaa-Martiii (10,900 ft.), to Ow B^ SMr^ fara., vli the Col
de* Roches^ interesting and not difficult for experts, wilh guide.
Fointes du Oh&telard (p. 345), 61/4 hrs. We proceed to the left from
the Col d'Iseran route towards the (50 min.) Chalet* de* Roche* (7390 ft.),
and thence via the Vallon valley, the (Q^/4 hrs.) Glacier de Mian- Martin^
and the (1 hr.) Col de Vifrette^ etc., as on the ascent from Bessans.
Points d'Albaron (13,015 ft. ^ 7 hrs.)^ to the S.E. Crossing the Arc, we
ascend to near the (25 min.) Cascade du Vallonei^ thence by a path on the
left bank, reach (1 hr.) a plateau and (40 min.) the foot of the n^v^,
which we cross to (25 min.) the rocky wall on the oth^ side. We climb
the latter withomt difficulty (1 hr. 35 min.) and skirt the Pointe du Grand
Fond (p. 345) to a (1 hr.) depression in the glacier, within IS/4 hr. of the
top (p. 345).
To the Koe de Pareit (8730 ft. ^ 3 hrs.), an easy and interesting ex-
pedition. We ascend the valley vi& (1 hr.) VBeoi (6710 ft.), perhaps the
highest village in France \ then to the right by the left bank of the Re-
eula, which issues from the Lac 4*Evette (8165 ft.), just before which we
turn to the right.
The Kulinet or Oime Martellot (11,280 ft.), a rocky peak visible from
Bonne val to the right of the Arc valley, may be ascended in about 7 hrs.,
with guide. From (1 hr.) L*Ecot (see above) we turn to the right by the
(8/4 ^f') Ouille de Tribte*^ the valley between the mountain and the mo-
raine, the (Sl/thrs.) MuUnet Glacier^ and a chemin^e. The ^Panorama
is very extensive , including the Italian plain and most of the great
peaks of Dauphiny and Savoy. Mont Blanc appears like the dome of a
cathedral surrounded by pinnacles.
The Levanna, which stands at the head of the valley of the Arc, to
the E., on the frontier, is one of the best points of view in the district.
It has three chief summits : the Lettanna CentraU (11,943 ft.), Levanna
Oceidentale (11,835 ft.), and Levanna Orieniale (11,696 ft.), to the S.E., and
at the head of the glacier from which the Arc issues. The first and last
are rarely sealed. — The Levanna Oceidentale (71/2 hrs. \ with guide) presents
no great difficulty to adepts, and commands an excellent view. From
VEcot (see above) we ascend to (V4 br.) the Orange* de la Duis (7090 ft.),
not far from the source of the Arc (p. 348), and (I1/4 hr.) the Chalet*
de Leehan* (7840 ft.), where the night may be spent. (Ascent of the
Aiguilles Pousses from this point, see p. 336.) Thence the ascent of
the Levanna is continued, first to the N., then to the E., to the (3i/s hrs).
glacier, which is crossed straight on in V4 bi'-i fti>d finally the summit
is reached in II/4 hr. more by the W. spur.
Fkom Bommbval to Obbesolb by thb Col j>v Carbo, about 9 hrs. We
follow the route for the Levanna Oceidentale to beyond the Ohetlet* de
Leehan* (see above), whence about I1/2 hr. more of stiff climbing towards
the N. brings us to the Col da Oarro (10,300 ft.). The descent takes
41/2 hrs. , one hour of which is spenA in crossing the Glacier du Carro^
which is full of crevasses. Cere*ole^ see p. 337.
Frov Bokhbval to Lakeo, about 13 hrs., with guide , over the Col de
Girard and the Col de 8ia^ on the frontier, to the N.E. and E. The same
path serves for both as far as L'Eeoi (see above). The route to the former
34S IV. Rimte 55. ST. AWDB6-IjB-GAZ. From Lyons
cot proceeds to the GroUffes d« la Duis ( p. 347 ) , and ttaten turns to the
£. to (l/s br.) the Lower Source of the Are (7180 ft.)- After 3 hr». more
in the same direction , latterly over the Olacier dt la Source de VArc^
we reaeh the Col de Oirard (lO^^O ft.)^ between the Levanna Orientale
and tb#-Cime Hartellot , whence we descend in 4 hrs. to Fomo (4066 ft. ;
hotel), on the Stura della Oura^ which we follow in order to reach
(31/2 hrs.) Lamo (p. 346). — Bearing to the £. at L'£cot, a climb of
31/2 hrs. past the (IV2 br.) Lac det Evettes (8175 ft.) and the Glacier de*
Evettes brings us to the (2 hrs.) Ool de S«a (10420 ft.), from which the
descent to Fomo takes 5 hrs.
65. From Lyons to Ghrenoble (Marseilles).
8II/2 M. Railway in 31/4-5 hrs. (fares 13 fr. 65, 9 fr. 15, 5 fr. 95 c.)'
The trains start from the Gare de Perrache (p. 327). This is a pleasanter
line to Atarseilles in summer than that through the valley of the Rhone
(R. 64), but it is 511/2 ^* longer, and of course not to be recommended for
the direct journey (14-14S/4 hrs.). Best views to the left.
From Lyons to Chambiry by this route, 66I/2M, , railway in 3-4 hrs.
(fares 12 fr. 10, 8 fr. 25, 5 fr. 10 c); via Culot, see pp. 240, 311.
Lyons y see p. 227. — The railway crosses the Khone , rises to a
plateau which is- devoid of interest, and passes several unimportant
stations.
26 M. BourgQin {Hotel du Pare; de V Europe) ^ with 6660 In-
hab. , the Bergusium of the Romans , on the Bourbre. Close by is
the little manufacturing town of Jallieu, with 4415 inhabitants.
35 M. La Tour-du-Pm (Grand Hotel; du Nord; du Midi) p to
the left, with 3700inhab. , is dominated by a hill (ML CaLvaire)
surmounted by a bronze statue of the Virgin (fine view). The
handsome modern Gothic church contains fine modern carvings
and (in the sacristy) an interesting triptych of 1551 , attributed to
Jacob Binck.
The line ascends. To the right is a long lake; the mountains of
Dauphiny appear on the left — 40 M. St. Andr6-le-6as, or le Ona,
i. e. *Gu^' (Buffet; H6t. Rossat).
From St. AnoRi-LE-GAz to Ghambert, 36V2 M., railway in U/* hr.
(fares 4fr. 80, 3fr. 25, 2fr. lOc). This line runs to the E. — 6 M.
Pressing^ the junction of the line from Virieu-le-Grand vi& Belley (p. 284).
The view of the Grande Chartreuse range (p. 360), on the right, improves
as we proceed, the most conspicuous point being the Dent de Crolles
(p. 360), a long white plateau ending in a sheer precipice. — 8Vs M.
Pont-de-Beauvoisin (Poste), on the Outers or Ouiers-V^. — 12 M. St. Bfeon
(1050 ft. ; H6t. de la Oare). To St. Laurent-du-Pont and to St. Oenix-d'Aoste.,
see below.
15 H. Lepin-Lac-d'AiguebeletU (Hdt. Pios-, Vallet) is a station to the
8. of the beautifully blue Lac d*Aiguebelette. Beyond a short tunnel we
pass through the Tunnel de VEpine., nearly 2 M. in length. — 20 M. La
Gascade-de-Gouz^ named after a waterfall, 160 ft. ia height but insignificant
in summer, which is seen on the right farther on. The line now rapidly
descends past vine-clad slopes on the left, while on the other side of
the Ghamb^ry valley is the Dent du Nivolet with its cross (p. 318). After
a wide sweep to the N. W. we jbin the line from Aix-le«-B«ins (p. 319).
- 26I/3 M. Chambiry, see p. 318.
From St. Bbrom to St. Gbnix-d'Aostb, 10 H., steam-tramway in IV4-
3 hrs. (fares 1 fr. 50, 90 c). The line descends the valley of the Gniera,
via (41/9 M.) Poni-de-Beauvoisin (see above). — St. Qenix-d'Aotie^ see p. 840.
to OrmohU. VOIRON. IV, R<mte 55. 349
Fbou St. B^sou to St. Laurkmt-du-Pomt (Orande Chartreust; Voiron.
10 M. , steam-tramway in V4-IV4 ^'' (fares 1 fr. 50, 95 c). The tramwa>,
runs through the Gorges de ChailUSy with cliffs 500 650 ft. high. — 51/2 My
Les EehtlUs (Hot. Durand). About 31/2 M. before reaching Les Eehelles
the highroad threads a tunnel 100 yds. in length, thus avoiding the former
flights of steps ('' Eehelles*) in the defile traversed by the old road. In
this defile (keeper at the entrance, 1 fr.) are the interesting Grottes des
Eohellea. Near the entrance is a chalet - hdtel, and at the other end is
St. Chri*toph«'la-Orott€. From Les Eehelles a conveyance plies to (17 Va M.)
the Grande Chartreuae vi& (I1/4H.) St. Christophe^ (3 M.) Le Chdtelard
(a rocky gorge). Si. Pierre - d' Emretnoni (71/2 M. ? H6t. Mollard), the
(121/2 M.) Col du Coucheron (3540 ft.), and (I41/2 H.) St. Pierre - de - Char-
treuse (p. 360). — 10 It. St. Laurent-du-Poni whence the Grande Chartreuse
and Voiro» are easily reached (oomp. p. 368).
45 M. Virieu-auT'fiourbre (Hdtel Guttin), to the left, over-
looked by a castle of the 14-17th cent. , containing some valuable
tapestry of the 15 -16th centuries. Farther on is another similar
castle. — 50 M. Chabons. — 62^/^ M. Le Grand - Lempa ( Hotel
Lacroiz).
Fbom Lb Gbahd-Lbmps to Chabavihes (Lac de Paladru)^ 9i/a M., steam
tramway, a continuation of that from Vienne (p. 422). — Oharavinas (1673 ft. \
Potie ; H6t. du Lae^ at Pagetiere , on the lake) is an industrial village about
1/4 M. from the lake of Paladru. — The Lae de Paladru (1643 ft.), 31/2 M.
long and 8/4 M. wide, on the plateau of Terres-FroideSy has well-wooded and
picturesque banks, and is frequented in summer for bathing. An omnibus
plies to Paladru (Hot. des Bains), at the other end of the lake. — About
2 H. to the N. of Pageti&re is the mined Carthusian convent of La Sylve Biniie.
Fine view, to the left, of the Grande Chartreuse mountains
and, farther on, of the Belledonne chain, and to the right, of the
mountains on the left hank of the Isere.
59 M. Rivet (Buvette; H6t. de la Poste), an industrial town (3030
inhab.), I74M. to the S., on the Fure, has noted steel-works and
some paper-mills. Railway to St. Rambert, see p. 422.
The train next passes over a viaduct, 138 ft. high. As we
approach the mountains the scenery improves. We descend to the
N., then to the E. , passing over an embankment 130 ft. high and
through two tunnels.
65 M. Toiron (950 ft.; Hotel de la Poste", Villa des Roses;
Vincent; du Midi), on the left bank of the Morgt, a pretty, pros-
perous-looking town of 12,000 inhab. , noted for its silk and paper
manufactures. St, Bruno , a modern church (1873), has handsome
internal decorations. On an eminence (2410 ft.; IVj br.) over-
looking the town is a colossal statue of Notre- Dame de Vouisr,
in beaten copper, standing upon a tower, 50 ft. high (view; key at
the Mairie).
Tramway to St. Laurent-du-Pont and St. Biron^ with *'eorrespon dance'
for the Chraiide Chartreuse^ see above.
Beyond Voiron the railway turns southward. 69V2 M. Moirans
(Burette ; Hdt. de Paris), a small but ancient town on the Morge
(3250 inhab.). Railway to Valence, see p. 355. — We then descend
into the Isere valley and ascend it, skirting the Grande Chartreuse
range on the S. as far as Grenoble^ and passing to the N. of another
350 IV. Routt 5^. GRENOBLE. HottU.
group, which terminates in the Btc de VEchaiUon, an the right There
are valuable stone-quarries on the Bee. The views are fine. We pass
through a short tunnel under the Roist torrent to (72 '/jM.) Vortppe
(Hdtel du Petit-Paris). The town is Vs M. to the N.
From Vobbppb to thb Gokybnt op Chalais ami> thb 6ram>b-Aiouili,b
(from Gpe&oble, see p. 356), 51/3-6 hrs. A bridle-path to the £., on the left
bank of the BoUe, leads in 2 hrs. to the former ConTent of Ohalait (306St ft.>,
now private property. In itself it is uninteresting, but its position over-
looking the Is^re valley ia delightful. I|,£mtf. at the adjacent forester***
house. From the convent we may ascend the Giande-A ignille (3590 ft.)
in 1 hr. , following the pilgrims' path along the hillside. The views to
the W., N., and S. are very beautiful.
77 M. St. Egrh)e-St'Robtrt, At St. Robert is a lunatic asylum.
Hence to the Grande Chartreuse, see p. 358. Fine view, on the left,
of the Pinea (5835 ft. ; p. 360), Chcmechavde (6845 ft.; p. 360), and
other mountains. To the left, near the railway, is the Caa<fiu de
N^ron (p. 354). We cross the Is^re above its junction with the
Drac. To the left appear the forts of Grenoble and above them a
cement- work with a wire-rope railway. Opposite us rise magnifi-
cent mountains. — 81 V2 M. Orenoble (buffet).
Grenoble. — Hotels. *GHAiiD-HdTBL (PI. a: B, 5), Rue de la Halle,
B. 31/2-6, dej. 31/2, D. 4, omn. Ifr.; Gr. Hot. Modbrhb (PI. f^ A, 4), Rue
F^lix Poulat, new •, •Monhet (PI. h\ B, 4), Place Orenette, with restaurant,
R. 31/2, B. 1V2> d^j- 31/2-4, D. 41/2-6, pens. 9-14, omn. »/4-lfr.i i>» i-'Bu-
HOPB (PI. o; B, 5), Place Qrenette (no table-d'hofteO ^ Tbois-Dauphims (PI. d;
B, 4), Rue Montorge 7, R. 3-4, B. II/4, d^j. 3, D, 31/2. omn. V2fr.i
d^Adolbteehb (Hdtel MenbU-^ PI. e, A 5), Place Victor llugo 5, with restanr-
ant^ Vachom iHdttl ifeubU)-^ dbs Alpes, Rue Bressieuz, B. 3, d^j. or D.
21/2 f>^') ^cH spoken of; db Satoib, db Bobdbaux, at the station; Pbhsion
DuBOis-BaousT, Gours St. Andr6 55.
Bestaurants. De VArt-Nouveau^ Avenue Alsace-Lorraine 3, ii la carte ;
Dreveton, Place Grenette 8 (first floor), d«j. 21/2, D. 31/2 > Lafayette^ Eue
Lafayette, same charges; de StrMbourg^ Aye. Alsa«e>Lorraino} Victor Bugc^
Place Victor Hugo 5.
Cafte. Cai'tier, des Detuc - JI£onde» ^ de Lyon.., in the. Place Grenette
Grand Cafi Debon^ Rue de la Halle, beside the Grand-Hotel, etc.
Oabs. With one horse, 1-3 pers. per drive 75 c, per hr. 1 fr. 76 e,
4 pers. 1 fr., 21/4 fr. ; at night (11-6) and to the Place Grenette or the theatn
11/4, 21/2, 2, 3 fr. •, picking up at a private residence 26 c. extra. Trunk 25 c.
Electric Tramways. From the Place Grenftte to the Station (10 c), to
the Foil* du Drae (10 c), to La Tranche (16 e.), to the Cemetery (10 c), to
La Monta (36 c.) and to Vmreppe (60 c. ; see above); to .the Be^foHire (10 e.)
via the Porte des Alpes (PL B, 6) and to (31/5) M.) ^hcM (old castle;
30 c); to (5 M.) Claix (55 c); and to (ti/aM.) Varces. — Public C<mveyance$
ply to Uriage, the Grande Chartreuse, liie Gorge d^Engins, Gorge de la
Bourne, GK>rge de la Vernaison (Goulets), Brianfon, etc.
Post and Telegraph Oface, Place Vaucanson (PL 12; A, B, 5).
Baths. Bain* dee DaupMns^ Rue Montorge 7; Bain* du Jardin-de' ViUe
(PL B, 4), 60-80 c; Jfarron, Rue Vicat 1. Swimming Baih^ Boulevard Gam-
betta (PL A, 6), 20 c. ; reserved on Frid. for ladies.
United States Consul, Mr. James GrenviUe.
Pretestant Ohmroh, Rue Lesdiguieres (PL 13; G, 5).
Soei^ de4 Tomrittes dm DnupMnd (see p. 37$) , Ay«|iue Thiemi 4. —
Club Alpin Francois (branch). Rue Montorge 2. — Syndica^ d' Initiative^ which
supplies tourists with gratuitous information about Dauphine, Hue Kon-
torge a. — aotiiU DaupMnaiee d'Amateure FhotographM^ Rue du Lyetfa».
Jardin dt Ville. GRENOBLE. lY. Boutt 56. 361
Grenoble (700 ft.) is a city of 68,000 inhab., the former capital of
the Dauphiny, and now the chief town of the department of the Isere.
It is also the headquarters of a suhdivision of the 14th army-
corps , the seat of a bishopric and of a nniversity, etc. The Isere
divides it into two unequal parts , that on the right bank being
comparatively small. It is a fortress of the first class, defended by a
complete enceinte, and by a series of detached forts. It is, however,
its unique position, at the junction of the fine valleys of the Isere and
the Drac, amid a superb environment of peaks attaining 10,000 ft.
in height, that makes Grenoble one of the principal tourist-centres
in France, especially in winter and spring.
Orenoble, the Cularo of the AUobroges, reeeived the name of Oratiano-
polis in honour of the Emperor Gratian (375-383), who founded the
bishoprie. In the middle ages the city passed through many 'hands,
principally belonging, however, to the bishops after one of tiiem had
defended it from an invasion of the Saracens or Hungarians (995). It
afterwards became the property qf their rivals, the Counts of Albon , who
took the title of Dauphin, and ceded their possessions to France in 1349,
on condition that they should in future always be the appanage of the
eldest son of the king. From 1369 to 1501 Grenoble was the seat of a
tribunal of the Inquisition,, established for the examination and punish-
ment of the Waldensians. The Religious Wars of the 16th cent, raged
fiercely here under the leadership of two governors , themselves at the
head of the Calvinist party, viz. the notorious Baron des Adrets and the
Due de Lesdigui^res (see p. 364). Grenoble was the first important town
to open its gates to Kapoleon I. on his return from Elba, in 1815.
The staple products of the place are the cement invented by Vicat^ and
(even more important) kid gloves, much improved by Xavier Jouvin
(1800-44). Gldve-making employs aOOO people in the town and 24,000
in the district; 1,200,000 dozen pairs, valued at 3&!,(XX),(X)0 fr., are annu-
ally produced.
From the Hallway Station (beyond PI. A, 4) we reach the old
town by the Avenue de la Gare, the Rue St. Jean (with the General
Hospital, PL A, 4), and the Rue Montorge.
The Place Grenette (PL B, 4, 5) , in the centre of the town , is
embellished by a fountain decorated with bronze dolphins, by Sappey.
To the N. the summit of the St. Eynard (p. 354) is visible.
An arched passage to the left of the fountain , at the beginning
of the Rue Montorge , leads to the Jardin de Ville (PL B, 4) , a
fashionable promenade, embellished with a bai^d - pavilion and a
fountain with a bronze statue ('The Torrent') by Basset of Gre-
noble. It was formerly the garden belonging to the mansion of the
Lesdiguieres , a part of which is now the Hotel de Ville (PL 9 -,
B, 4), to the E.
Behind the garden is the Place St. Andre (PL B, 4) , with a
mediocre statue of Bayard (1476-1524-, see p. 365), by Raggi
(1823). The place of Bayard's death is erroneously given in the
inscription, (ind the words that it attributes to him are apocryphal.
— The church of St, Andrew (13th cent.) was originally the chapel
of the Dauphins' palace. To the left of the choir is a monument
erected in the 17th cent, to the memory of Bayard. In the right
transept is a Martyrdom of St. Andrew, by Restout.
/
^ 352 lY. R(mte55. GRENOBLE. Cathedral.
The PalaiB de Justice (PI. 11; B,4), erected in the 15th cent.,
on the site of the Dauphins' palace, on the N. of the Place St. Audr^,
was partly rebuilt in 1390-97 in the original style. The facade is
mainly in the style of the Renaissance. The interior, interesting
for its fine ceilings and wainscoting , is open to the public when
the court is sitting, and is shown to visitors at other times on appli-
cation to the keeper.
The Rue du Palais and the Rue Brocherie, to the E. of the Place
St. Andr^, lead to the Cathedral of Notre - Dame (PI. C, 4) , a heavy
building of the ll-12th and 16th cent., the portal of which has
been recently rebuilt in the Romanesque style. To the right in
the choir are a very fine stone *Tabemacle (1455-57), more than
45 ft. idi height, and an episcopal throne, in the same style, whilst
on the opposite side is the tomb of a bishop , erected in 140T, now
deprived of its efflgy. In the apse are gilt reliefs of scenes from
the life of the Virgin (18th cent,). - In the same square is the Cen-
tennial Monument of the Revolution (comp. p. 368) , a handsome
fountain by H. Ding.
The Tour de Clirieux^ opposite the cathedral, cominands a fine yiew,
including Mont Blanc (open from 8 a. m. to 7 p. m. ; 35 c).
In the centre of the new quarter of the town is the Place de la
Constitution (PL B, 5, 6) , surrounded by handsome buildings. On
the S. side is the Hotel de la Prefecture (PI. B, 6) ; opposite are the
Hotel de la Division Militaire (PI. 8) and the University (PI. 7) ; on
the E. are the Sahool of Artillery and the Museum ^ Library.
TheHu86e (PI. 2, C, 5) is open daily (8-5 in summer, 9-4 in winter),
except Mon. and holidays, but strangers are admitted at all times.
Admittance to the rooms on th« upper floor on Sun. and Thurs.
only. The Mus^e occupies the left wing of the building, the prin-
cipal rooms being on the groundfloor and containing both paint-
ings and sculptures. Of the latter there are but few and uone of
importance, but the picture-gallery contains over 360 works, eon-
stituting one of the best provincial collections in France. The pic-
tures bear labels. Catalogue 75 c.
The VfisTiBULB is decorated with allegorical paintings by Blanc-Fon-
taine and Rahouli^ both Grenoble artists. It contains also some sculptures:
675. Le ffarivel-Durocher^ Comedy ; 662. A. Dumont^ Infancy of Bacchus.
Picture Gallery. — Boom I. To the left : Rigeiud^ 208. Due de Noailles,
208. St. Simon, Bishop of Metz; no number, Jouveneiy Sea-pieeei David^
Vincent, the artist; 231. French School, Lesdigui^res ; 22. Bourdon^ Mod-
eration of Scipio \ 815. Attributed to Watteau, Musicians ; Poutsin , Moses
smiting the roelc ; 169. Jfonnoyer, Flowers ; *154. Lesuettr, Thanksgiving of
the family of Tobias; De»porie», 64. Stag at bay, 65. Flowevs, fruit, and
animals; 45,46. Bourguignon, Cavalry fights ; *176. Pater^ Women bathing ;
35. Callet, Louis XVI. ; 148. LargillUre, Portrait; J. Jouvenet, 133. Allegorical
composition, 134. St. Simon, 135. St. Bartholomew; 88. Fragwunrdy Head
of an old man ; 214. Fr. de Troy^ Portrait ; 223. VieHy Bape of Proserpine ;
219. L. M. van Loo^ Louis XV. ; 213. Tourniires , Ch. de Beauharnais, Gover-
nor of Canada; 243. French School (16th cent.), Virgin; 38 (above). School
of Clouet, Admiral CoIignV.
Room II. To the left/ •297. Pahnexzano, Holy Family; 346. Spamith
Mus^e, GRENOBLE. JV. Route 55. 353
School, Portrait; *336. PeruffinOySt. Sebastian, with St. Apollonia; 819. Do-
meniehino (Zampieri), Adam and Eve; 314. Sasgo/errtttOy The Saviour; 327.
Padovanino (Vttrotari)^ Venus and Cuoid; 296. Attributed to Paima, Ado-
ration of the Shepherds; P. Veronese, 368. Christ appearing to Mary Mag-
dalen, *462. Jesus healing the woman with an issue of blood; 315. Smso-
ferraiOy The Virgin ; 250. GaravaggiOy Portrait ; ♦289. Bernardino Lieinio^ Ma-
donna and Child, with SS. John the Baptist, Anthony, and James; 320.
Schidone, Virgin; 304. Proeaecini^ Virgin; 323. Titpolo^ Danae; 336. Taddeo
di Bartolo, Virgin and Saints Tea. 14^); 298,299. Panini^ Ruins; 255. At-
tributed to Bellini, Portrait; 251. Tad. di Bartolo, Virgin and Saints; 259.
Bugiardini, Michael Angelo ; 270. Gerquozzi, Cavalry skirmish ; •286. Ouardi,
Piazza of St. Mark, Venice; 321. SolariOy Bearing of the Gross; ^5. Ca-
naUtto, View of Venice; 287, 288. Lanfranco, Heads of old men; 263. P.
Veronese, Christ appearing to Mary Maedalen ; 309. Tintoretto, Holy Family,
unfinished; 258. 5ron«<«o, Portrait ; *343. «<&*ra, Martyrdom of St. Bartho-
lomew ; 310. Tintoretto, Portrait of the Doge Gritti ; 99. CI. Lorrain , Sea-
pieee; 322. Strozzi, Disciples at Emmaus; *98. Gl. Lorrain, Landscape;
406. Rembrandt (f), Head of an old man ; 885. Honthorst, Disciples at Emmaus ;
357. Ph. de Champaigne, Assunaption ; 398. Sir A. More (?), Portrait ; 373. Van
den Eeekhout, Portrait; 363. Ph. de Ghaimpaigne, Portrait of himself; 351.
Bloemaert, Adoration of the Magi; 353. Bloemen, Temple of the Sibyl at
Tivoli; 427. Van Thulden, Time and the Fates; 429. Van de Velde the
Younger, Squadron ; 424. Terburg (f). Portrait ; no number, Swanevelt, Land-
scape ; 356. Ph. de Ghampaigne, Raising of Lazarus ; 417. /. van Ruytdael (f).
The torrent; 396. K. de Moor, Dutch Admiral ; 425. Van Thulden, The Tri-
nity; 421. Snyders, Dog and cat; 364. Bol, Portrait; 367. Oasp. de Grayer,
Martyrdom of St. Catharine ; 823. Neejff's, Interior of a cathedral ; 382. Sob-
bema. Landscape, a youthful work (1629); *412. Bubem,&t. Gregory; 362.
Ph. de Ghampaigne, Portrait of the Abb^ de St. Cyran ; 366. 0. de Grayer,
Virgin and Child, with saints; 457. Dutch School, Portrait; 435, 434. /.
Weenix, Game and fruit ; Ph. de Ghampaigne, 358. Louis XIV. conferring
the order of the Holy Ghost upon his brother, the Duke of Anjou, after-
wards Duke of Orleans , 360. John the Baptist ; *394. Van der Meulen,
Louis XIV. crossing the Pont Neuf ; 364. /. B. de Ghampaigne , Benediction
of the Order of St. Dominic; 423. Teniers, Skittles; 821. A. van Everdingen,
A waterfall ; no number, Flemish School, 445. Rokes (Zorg) , Still-life ; .352.
Van Bloemen, Landscape ; 372. Attributed to Van Dyck, Repentant Magdalen;
Jordaens, 387. Adoration of the Shepherds , 388(?), Sleep of Antiope ; 374.
Van den Eeekhout, Portrait (1669) ; 423. Snyders, Parrots and other birds.
Boom III, modern paintings: 129. Hillemaeher, The dying Antony
brought to Cleopatra; 179. Pelouse, Evening; no number, DetaiUe, Battle
of Champigny ; Wi. Hareux, The Romanehe at Livet ; 12. BeUet du Poisat,
The Council of Bale; 204. Rochegrosse, The Quarry; 121,806. Harpignies,
Landscapes ; no number, Lansyer, Toudoute, Landscapes ; De Neuville, Battle
of Bezonville; 813. H. Scheffer, Arrest of Charlotte Corday; 33. Brouillet,
Wounded peasant; 80. Faure, The spring; 784. BasM, The Creed; 64. De-
bette, Xapoleon entering Grenoble in l815 (p. 351) ; no number, 124. Hiberi,
Portraits; 301. Ricard, Portrait of Rahoult; 61. Delacroix, St. George; 14.
J^ennoury, Death of Messalina; 117. Ouital, Lac de TEchauda; 2. Achard,
View from St. Egrfeve (p. 350). — Room IV, on the left: 316. After Raphael,
Baptism of Cionstantine, copy attributed to N. Poussin; no number.. H&tert,
Patterns of mosaics; *l61. Merle, The Redeemer; 10. J- Andri^ Landscape;
68. Outi. Dor^, View in Scotland ; no number, UKlmamn, Sulla and Marius ;
151^'*. Gomte du Nouy, Homer. — Adjoining is the Exhibition Hall of
the Library (p. 354), containing various busts and portraits.
The Soulptnre and ArolueologioalGolleoti<>n (easts and originals) occupies
the rooms parallel to the preceding , as we return towards the vestibule.
The Galbrib Gbkik (open Sun. and Thurs. only), on the first floor,
eontalns collections of objects of art, antique furniture, bas-reliefs, ivories,
pottery, porcelain, water-colours, tapestry, etc. — The second floor is ap-
propriated to Drawings and Engravings, amongst which are many drawings
by old masters, and at the farther end is the *'Organ Point', a large work
in erayons by Toumettz.
Baedeker. Southern France. 4th Edit. ^
\
354 J V. Rimte 66. QRENOBLE.
The Library, which occupies the right wing of the building, eontain»
334,400 vols, including 7300 MSS., and in theological works it is one of
the richest libraries in the provinces. It is open to readers every day from
11 to 4, Hon., Frid., and the vacation excepted. The *ExhibiHon Hall (p. 863;
open to the public at the same hours) is decorated with allegorical paint-
ings by Blanc-Fontaine and Bahoult. Bound the room and in the centre
are glass-eases containing various curiosities, MSS. and early printed books,
specimens of rich bindings, seals, medals, bronzes, statuettes, and antiquities.
The Jardin des Plantes (PI. C, 6), a little way to the S., has a Bo-
tanic Garden and a short promenade. The entrance is in the Rue
Dolomieu. The Museum is well-arranged, hut of little interest except
for its specimens of Dauphiny minerals (adm. in summer, li-4
daily, except Mon. and Frid.)>
A modem bronze Statue of Vaucanaon (PI. B, 5), hy Chappuy,
stands in the Place Vaucanson , to the W. of the Place de la Con-
stitution. Yaucanson (1709-82), the celebrated mechanician, was a
native of Grenoble. On the W. side are the Post and Telegraph
Offices (PI. 12; B, 5), behind which is the Square des Pastes^ with
a monument to Doudart de Lagree (1823-68) , the first explorer of
the Mekhong, by Recoura and Rubin.
From the quays (paved with the local cement ; see p. 361) and
from the bridges which span the Isere there is a splendid view ex-
tending as far as Mont Blanc. At the end of the suspension-bridge,
on the right bank, is the Fontaine du Lion, with a lion crushing
a serpent, by Sappey. By the next bridge higher up is a bronze
statue of Xavier Jouvin (PI. C,4; p. 351), by Ding.
St. Laurent (PL C, 3), the church of this quarter, dates mainly
from the 11th century. Its interesting Crypt, dating back, it is said,
to the 6th cent., is in the shape of a cross with semicircular ends,
and is borne by 28 columns, 15 of which are of white Parian marble
(apply to the sacristan. Rue St. Laurent 9).
SnviroUf The view-points afforded by the town itself are naturally
surpassed by those on the slopes of Kont Baehais (3465 ft.), which overlooks
the town on the N. A large part of the hill is occupied by Fort Babot
and, higher up, the Fort de la Bastille (1586 ft.), which can be entered only
on the written order of the Commandant. Near Fort Babot is a Btlvi!'
dere (fine view), for admission to which a ticket obtained (gratis) at the
Syndicat d^Initiative (p. 360) is required. — A more extensive panorama
may be enjoyed from the top of the Vala (21d0ftj 3-4 hrs., there and
back), the part of the Bachais above the Bastille. — The mountain farther
to the W. is the C<uqu« de Niron (4280 ft.), but the difficulty of its ascent
is ill repaid by a comparatively restricted view.
To the N.E. of Grenoble, on the ri^ht bank of the Isere, is the small
village of (1 H.) La Tranche (tramway, 15 c), whose church possesses a fine
painting by H^bert^ ^La Vierge de la D^livranee". Thence a pleasant walk
leads past the foot of an eminence surmounted by the Jionf/teurp Convet
to (2 M.) Bouqu^ron^ a hamlet with an old chateau now converted into a
Bath Establishment, to which an omnibus plies from the Place Orcnette in
Orenoble (40 c). — About 8/4 M. higher up is Corenc (Michallet), charmingly
situated and with a lovely view. Above rises the St. Eyaard (4400 ft.),
the best view-point in the neighbourhood of Orenoble. Near the top is a
fort which can be entered only by written permission ; it is reached by a
road from Le Sappey (p. 360). ~ This route forms part of that to the
Grande Chartreuse via Le Sappey (see p. 360).
From Grenoble to ChambirVy Allevardj etc., see B. 67; to Brianfon, etc..
SASSENAGE. IV. Route 56. 356
see B. 58; to Oap vi& La Mure^ see p. d63; to Digne and Pugei-Thinier*^
see B. 61 \ to Marseilles , see B. 68.
From Grbnoblb to Valemgb (lower valley of the Isere) , 6II/2 M.,
railway in 2-31/4 hrs. (fares 11 fr. 20, 7 fr. 50, 4 fr. 90 c). The best views
are on the left. As far as (12 M.) Jfoirans yve follow the Lyons line (see
p. 349). — 17 M. Tulliiu (Pmnme d'Or)^ a manufacturing town of 4740 inhab.,
with a small bath - establishment (59° Fahr.). Vast quantities of nuts
('noix de Grenoble*) grow in the vicinity. — 23M. L^Albenc (Hot. Buisson);
351/a M. Vinav (H5t. Porreau). About 3 M. to the N.W. is the pilgrim-
resort of Notre-Dame'de-V 0$ier (omnibus in 1 hr. ; fare 1 fr.).
311/2 M. St. Karoallin (H6t. du Peiit-Paris), a small town (3300 inhab.)
the church of which has a Bomanesque steeple. About 71/2 M. to the
N.W. is St. Antoine (omnibus twice daily, 75 c. ; Hdt. Dupeley), with the
ancient abbey from which sprang the order of the Hospitallers of St. An-
thony or the Antonins. The *Church is a magnificent Duilding of the 13-
14th cent., the portal of which has some exquisite carving. In the interior
the galleries in the nave, the choir-stalls, and the high-altar, with the
relies of St. Anthony , are noteworthy. The sacristy contains several re-
liquaries. — An omnibus plies twice a day from St. Marcellin to (IOI/2 M.)
P&ni-en-Royans (p. 3ft2), passing the ruins of Beauvoir Castle.
34M. La S6ne. — 381/2 M. St. Hilaire-St-Nazaire. An omnibus (75 fl.)
plies hence four times a day to (7 M.) Pont-en-Ropans (p. 363) via (I1/4 M.)
St. Nazaire (H6t. Bomanet), with silk-factories. — Farther on appear the
roeks of the Gorges of the Bourne and the Vernaison (p. 362).
49 M. Romans (H6t. de V Europe)^ a town of 16,700 inhab., is well placed
on the right bank of the Is^re. It dates from the 9th cent,, when it grew
up around an abbey of which the fine Church of St, Bernard is a relic.
54 M. Alixan. Beyond (561/2 M.) St. Marcel-lhs- Valence we descend into
the Bhone valley and pass through a tunnel. — 6II/2 M. Valence (p. 433).
66. Excursions from Orenoble.
I. Short ExcorsioiiB.
To Sassbdaoe AMD THB GoRGBs DU FuRON , 3-6 hrs., according to the
extent to which the latter is explored. A steam- tramway, starting at the
Square des Pastes (PI. A, 5), runs to (31/2M.) Sassenage (fares 45, 30 c.). Be-
yond Sassenage the tramway goes on to (7M.) Veurey (Hotel de la Bive).
SasBenage (Hdtel des Chives; Faure), a considerable village,
lies in a beautiful spot at the foot of an abrupt hill. It possesses a
17th cent, ch&teau , rich in works of art , among which is MurlUo's
Evangelists. — The Gorges du Turon, a ravine between sheer rocks,
with several waterfalls, are visited from Sassenage. To explore the
Orottoes, with their excavations called cures (vats), a guide (Hour-
seau ; Lanat) and light (2 Ar. by tariff) are necessary. They are Inac-
cessihle when the river is high.
The Furon, higher up, also threads the wild ravines known as the
Passage des Partes cPEngins and the Qarges d'^Engins (p. 361).
To THE GhItbau de Bbausboard, the Tous Savs-Venin, avd the Mou-
CHSROTTB, 10-12 hrs., or if we turn at the Tour Sans-Venin, 5-6 hrs., a
charming excursion easily combined with the preceding. A public con-
veyance plies to Seyssinet (50 c.) from No. 30 Bue du Lyc^e \ or a carriage
may be hired to Beauregard or even St. Nizier, which shortens the ex-
pedition and renders it very easy.
We follow the Sassenage road as far as the bridge over the Drac,
turn (V4 IkT.) to th« left, then (25 min. farther on) to the right, and
23*
356 IV. Rimte 56. URIAGE. Excursions
in 10 min. more reach the pretty village of Seyssinet. A picturesque
path ascends hence in zigzags to (15-20 min.) the Ch&tean de Bean-
regard (1360 ft.), of the 18th cent., which occupies perhaps the
finest site in the neighbourhood of Grenoble. Less than 10 min. from
the chateau, to the right of the road, is a picturesque ravine called
the Desert (key at the ch4teau). The (V2-V4 ^^') *Tour Sane - Venin
(2460 ft.), on an isolated hill beyond the chateau, is the relic of a
mediaeval fortress, and from it there is a wide panorama, including
Mont Blanc. ChapoVs Inn is close by, and not far off is Le Pariset
(two inns), about 6 M. from Grenoble.
The *Hoiicherotte (6255 ft.), the fine mountain to the S., is
usually ascended from this side. We may either drive to St. Nizier
(3840 ft. ; H6t. du Moucherotte), on the S.W., or take a direct cross-
road (more interesting), requiring i^/^hr.^ and passing the foot of the
Trots- Pucelles (see below), V2 hr. from St. Nizier. From St. Nizier
the ascent proper (easiest from this point) takes about 3 hrs., by a
path marked with stakes, and passing vi& the (Va hr.) Fertnc Ravix,
a meadow, and (1 V4 hr.) a chemin^e with steps, 1 hr. below the sum-
mit. The view from the top is very fine.
The Troll Pucelles, a group of four precipitous rocks ^ though only
three are visible from Grenoble, are difncult to scale. The Orosse Pu-
celle (4970 ft.) is the highest; the others are the Orande Pucelle^ the PueelU
de St. Nizier^ on the W., and the Petite PueelU^ to the B.
From Grenoble to the Convent of ChcUais and to the Orande- Aiguille*
see p. 350. In addition to the railway, an omnibus plies from the Place
Grenette to Voreppe (60 c).
II. TJriage and its EnviroiiB.
Approaches. A Steam Tramway plies from the railway -station at Gre-
noble to Uriage, 8 M., in i-i'/4 hr. (fares 1 fr., 75 c), going on to Bourg-
d'Oisans (p. 369). — Railway-passengers approaching from Chambery alight
at Gihrei (p. 364), near which the steam-tramway passes.
Hotels. Gravd-Hotsl, Hot. du Gbbcle, Mokubt, Akcibm Hotsl, Hot.
DBS Baims, all under the same management as the Bath Establishment,
R. 2-10 fr. ; DU Globe, du Louvre, duRochbr, de Paris, Chabbrt, Rbt-
MOKD, also well situated; Hot. du Midi; dbs Nboociamtb; Bassbt; dc
Nord; dbl'Europb; dbs Alpbs. — Lodgings and Houses to let.
Baths, 11/4 - 11/3 fr- according to season and hour. — Mineral Water,
6 fr. for the season; 80 c. for 10 glasses. — Casino (open from 10th June
to 30th Sept.), adm. 1 fr. , for three weeks 15 fr., or 3 and 90 fr. including
admission to the theatre. — Restaur ami du Certle^ good.
Guides. Fr. and Jos. Henri Boujard , 6 , 8, or 10 fr. per day ; porters,
5, 6, or 7 fr. — Carriages, Horses^ and Donkeys according to tariff.
Uriage (1360 ft.), a small place famous for its baUis, is situated
in a pretty dale shut in by wooded heights. It has an old Chdteau
and attractive country-houses. The Establishment (open from
25th May to Idth Oct.) is supplied by an abundant spring contain-
ing chloride of sodium and sulphur, more strongly impregnated but
of a lower temperature (81° Fahr.) than the springs at Aix-la-Chapelle
(131°Fahr.). The Uriage water, known to the Romans, is tonic and
pom Grenoble. URIAGE. IV. Route 56. 357
depuratory ; it especially suits delicate persons and is much em-
ployed for skin diseases. The Chapel of Vriage, a very unpre-
tending structure, contains 16 pictures by old masters: P. Vero-
nese, Lor. Lotto, Carlo Dolci, etc. There is also a fine altar-screen
in carved wood.
Walks. The (I/3 M.) Ch&teau d'Uriage , beloneing to the owner of the
baths , is open to the public on Frid., from 2 to 5. It dates from the 13-
16th cent., and contains collections of Egyptian, Greek, Roman, and medi-
eeval antiquities , medals , paintings by old masters , tapestry , and nat-
ural history specimens. — Walks of 21/2-4 hrs. (there and back) may also
be made to (51/2 M.) the Valley of Vaulnaveys^ in the direction of Vizille
(p. 368) •, the *MQntagne des Quatre-Seigneurs (3096 ft. ; fort), vi& Villeneuve
(carriage-road) t the Hill of Bellevue or Signal de Montchaboud (2410 ft.);
the Combeloup (3260 ft.)) and other points.
Exoursioni. — To thb Chartrbusb de Pr^:mol, 21/4 hrs. The pict-
uresque bridle-path leads past (1/4 hr.) St. OeorgeSy to the S.E., (26 min.)
Belmont, (Vs hr.) Le Oua, the (20 min.) Croix de Primol (about 2600 ft.),
and then through a wood. On quitting the last (i/a hr.) we reach the
Chartreuie de Pr^mol (3590 ft.), which has been in ruins since the Revo-
lution and of which little is left. Its charm is the delightful solitude in
which it stands. Refreshments may be had at the forester^s. — Ascent of
the Croix de Ghamrousse, see below.
To THB OuRsi&RB Watbrpall , S^/g hrs., interesting, via (V2iti'-) ^^'
Martin - d" (friage (Hot. des Touristes), beyond the chateau. Lex Bonnets^
(8/4 hr.) La OrivoUe, and the (I/2 hr,) Col de Replat (3655 ft.), on which
is the Chalet des Seiglikres (inn). Beyond a wood we turn (Vahr.) to the
right and ip about II/4 hr. more reach the Chalet-Hdtel deVOursihre (4866 ft.),
at the foot of the *0nrsito6 Wat«rfkll, a copious fall about 325 ft. high
but in several leaps. It is well set amid rocks and foliage, -r- Theuce
to the Croix de Chamrousse, see below.
To TUB Croix db Chamrousse, 6-6I/3 hrs., 10 hrs. there and back
(guide 6 fr.). The main route , practicable for mules , leads past the
Chartreuse de Primal (see above) and the pastures of (21/2 hrs. more) the
Roche Biranger (6070 ft. ; chalet-hotel) to the (IV2 hr.) Croix (see below).
— A longer route passes the (81/2 hrs.) Oursihre Waterfall (see above), and
then proceeds by the (I/2 hr.) Prairie de V Oursihre (5296 ft), above the water-
fall, and past the G/a hr.) Chalet de VEchaillon (6020 ft.), the four Lacs Robert
(1 hr.), which once were a single sheet of water, and the (V2 hr.) Col du
Petit -/nfemay (7120 ft.), which is V2 hr. short of the Croix (see below).
— The shortest way of all (4V2-5 hrs. to the top) leads via the Recoin^ a
mass of rock 50 min. below the summit. This route is hard to find and
must be tackled on foot. — The summit of ^Chamrouaie (74(X) ft.), sur-
mounted by a large cross , affords a very wide panorama, slightly inter-
rupted on the N.E. by the Croix de Belledonne (p. 364).
To the Oroiz de Belledonne (9525 ft.), 3Va hrs. from the chalet-hdtel of
La Pra (see below) ; guide (12 fr.) necessary. We follow the route to the
(hsrsibre WaierfaU and Prairie (4 hrs. ; see above). Thence we ascend the
left bank of the Domenon torrent to (II/4 hr.) the Col de V Oursihre (6460 ft.),
V4 hr. beyond which is the Chalet -mtel de la Pra (7060 ft.; telephone),
an excellent starting-point for this excursion. Thence it is 1/4 hr. to the
Col de la Pra (about 7220 ft.), where the Revel route (p. 364) joins ours.
We next reach the (U/a hr.) Dominon Lakes, often frozen, and the snow
region between the Orande- Lance de Domhne (yfi^ ft.), on the left, and the
Grande- Vaudaine (9160 ft.), on the right. Almost straight ahead are the peaks
of Belledonne, but it takes about 13/4 h'- more to reach the Col de Belle-
donne (also on the route from AUemont, see p. 369), 1/2 hr. below the Croix.
An even better view may be obtained from the Ghraade Lanoe de Do-
mftae (9230 ft.), easily ascended from the Chalet de la Pra in 21/2-2S/4 hrs.
— The Qramde Lance d^Allemont (p. 380), more difficult, requires 6Va l^rs.
/
I
358 IV. Route 56. GRANDE CHARTREUSE. Excurrionn
III. The Grande Chartreuse.
Hitherto most tourists have taken the carriage-routes via La Placeltt^
and via Le Sappep, going one way (34 M.) and returning the other (18 M.).
Now, however, it is better to go by railway to Voiron and by steam -
tramway thence to St. Laurent-du-Poni ^ whence an omnibus runs to the
monastery. The road via Le Sappep affords, in fine weather, beautiful views
of the mountains of the Isere valley, and may. therefore be followed in
returning. In this case, in order to ensure a seat in the public convey-
ance, it is advisable to take a circular ticket at the office of the Syn-
dicat (p. 350 -, fares 12 fr. 40, 11 fr. 45, 10 fr. 15 c,). Those who do not
mean to return to Grenoble should make the ascent via Le Sappey,
starting in the public conveyance at 6 a. m. (fare 6 fr. *, seats with back
to horses preferable). They may then descend to (SVs V.) St. Laurent by
carriage or on foot. — Train from Grenoble to Voiron (I6I/2 M.) in Vs l^'-i
starting at 7.15 a. m. (fares 2 fr. 90, 1 fr. 95, 1 fr. 30 c). Tramway thence
to (12 H.) St. Laurent in II/4 hr. (fares 1 fr. 65 c, 1 fr.)' Omnibus thence
to the (51/2 M.) Chartreuse in I8/4 hr. (fare 2 fr.). The convent is reached
about 11 a. m. The return-vehicle via Le Sappey leaves the Chartreuse at
2.30or3 p.m., via St. Laurent at 3.50 p. m. Insummer(ldth June to 15th Sept.)
a second service runs in the afternoon, reaching the Chartreuse in the
evening (no accommodation for the night, see p. 359; travellers should
therefore stay at St. Laurent-du-Pont^ see below, or at St. Pierre-de-Char-
treuse, see p. 360). — Public conveyances also ply to the Chartreuse from
St. Laurent via the Disert and from Lei Echellei (p. 349); also from St. Laurent
to St. Pierre-de-Chartreuse (p. 360).
Route from St. Biron^ see p. 349.
Pedestrians are also recommended to follow the route (7-8 hrs.) via
(31/2 ^O ^*' Robert (railway-station, p. 350 ; public carr. from Grenoble, 35c.),
{1/4 hr.) La Monta^ (8/4 hr.) Provepsieux (hotel), Savopardiire (l/jhr.), Pomarap
(inn), and the (2 hrs.) Col de la Charmette (3935 ft. ; forester^s house), whence
the Charmant-Som (6135 ft.), to the £., may be ascended in IVa hr. From the
col they continue past (l/a hr.) the Habert de Tenaison^ where they turn to
the right beyond the brook, the (Vi^r.) Col de la CocheUe^ the (V4 tr.) Robert
de Malamille^ the (I/2 hr.) Hahert Valhombrie, the (V4 hr.) Pont de la Tan-
nerie (avoiding the road to the right before the bridge), and the (i/a hr.)
Courrerie., I1/2 M. from the Orande Chartreuse (p. 360).
From Grenol)le to (I6V2 M.) Voiron, see pp. 360, 349. The
steam-tramway , which in part follows the St. Laurent road , starts
at the station, crosses the railway, and ascends in windings (fine
views). — 2^2 M. Couhlevie, — 8^/4 M. La Croix- Bayard. — Beyond
(6^/2 M.) St. Etienne-de-Crossey we traverse the picturesque defile of
the Grand Crussey, IV4 M. long. — 9^2 M. St. Joseph-de-Rivitre.
12 M. St. Laurent -dn- Pont (1345 ft.; Hdtel des Princes; Hot.
de V Europe; de la Gare), a small town with 2627inhab in a pretty
valley, has a modern church, with stalls dating from the 14th century.
Farther on is a Hospital, also built hy the Carthusians. Tramway
to St. Beron, see p. 349.
The road to the Chartreuse turns to the right and ascends through
the * Valley of the Guiers-Mort, perhaps the most interesting part
of the excursion. — 1 V4 M. Fourvoirie, where the monks manufacture
their famous liqueur (p. 360; no admission). The name signiHes
'a gap' (forata via), and indeed the valley is so narrow, that it was
Impassable until the 16th cent, when the Carthusians made a road
which has been widened of late years. It was formerly guarded by
I
from Orenoble. GRAi(D£ OHARTREUSE. IV, Route 58. 359
a gate, in the days when all the upper part of the valley belonged to
the monastery. The magnificent wooded ^Qarge beyond is the be-
ginning of the Desert, the former domain of the convent, but now,
like the convent, the property of the State. — Beyond (3 M.) Pont
de St, Bruno, 150 ft. in height, and another picturesque old bridge
we ascend to the rock called (EUette or Aiguillette and (3V4 M.) a
tunnel 72 yds. long, followed by three shorter ones. We see the
Grand -Som, surmounted by its cross (p. 360). 41/2 M. Pont de
St. Pierre, over which the St. Pierre-de-Chartreuse road is carried.
The monastery, 5Vs M. firom St. Laurent, appears to the left just
before we reach it.
The Grande Chartreuse (3205 ft) , the monastery founded by
St. Bruno in 1084, became the parent -house of a widely spread
order, whence it gained the distinguishing title of 'Grande'. The
monastery has been burnt down several times, and was rebuilt in
its present unimposing form after the last fire in 1676. Visitors are
admitted only at 8 and 10 a. m. and 1 and 4.15 p. m. ; on Sun. and
holidays at 10, 1, and 4. Since early in 1902 lodgings and meals
have no longer been supplied at the monastery.
The Carthusians, about 150 in all, are divided into the 'fathers'
(35-40), who wear white habits, and the 'brothers', who have not yet
taken vows and dress in brown on week-days. The 'fathers', who
wear no beards, are priests , live in cells, and employ their time in
prayer, study, or manual labour. They even take their meals in these
cells, except on Sundays and feast-days, when they eat together.
Otherwise they never quit their cells except for the daily and nightly
services, and once a week to take a walk in the 'Desert'. They are
also vowed to silence , which they break only at church and while
walking, if so allowed by their superior. They never eat meat, take
only one solid meal a day, and fast at least once a week. On their
death they are burled face downwards and without a coffin. The
graves are marked by a wooden cross without a name, but those of
the superiors are distinguished by a small monument. — A staff of
salaried servants performs the household duties.
Everything is of the utmost simplicity in the monastery. The chapter-
hoase, the chief object of interest, contains the portraits of the generals
of the order, some copies of the Life of St. Bruno by Lesueur, and his
statue by Foyatier. The cloister is 705 ft. long and 75 ft. wide. There is
also a library with 35,000 volumes. The midnight office (not acces-^ible to
strangers), which lasts until 2 o*clock, is chiefly remarkable for its gloom.
the chapel being dimly lit and the service consisting of psalms recited
in monotone.
The Cell of a Carthusian monk is really a small two-storied house,
with two rooms on each floor. On the groundfloor are the wood-shed and
the work-room, the latter provided with a carpenter's bench and a lathe*
Upstairs lure a kitchen (no longer used) and the cell proper, serving as
bedroom, refectory, oratory, and study. The bed occupies a curtained
alcove. By its side are a desk and prie-Dieu, at which the monk recites
most of the offices at the stated hours. Each house has also a small
enclosed garden, which the brother cultivates and in which he takes
the air.
360 IV. Route 56. QRANDE CHARTREUSE. ExcurHant
It is well known that the Carthusians make their much esteemed
liqueur CChartreuse^) from aromatic plants which are found on these
mountains. The distilleries are at Fourroirie (p. 358). These manufactures
produce about 1,600,000 litres a year, yielding a large reyenue, chiefly spent
on charitable objects. Half a bottle of ''Chartreuse jaune* costs 3 fr. dO c.
at the convent. _____«_____>-
About i/a hr. to the V. (road) is Notre -Deme'de-Catalibus (*of the
huts*), a ehapel built on the site of the first convent, which was destroyed
by an avalanche in 1132. About 5 min. farther on is the Chapel of St. Bruno^
rebuilt in the 17th cent., aqd several times restored. The keys of the
chapels should be asked for at the convent.
From the Grande Chartreuse the ascent of the Orand-8om takes
31/3 hrs. The path is so clearly indicated by guide-boards that a guide
C3 fr.) may be dispensed with. A mule (5 fr.) may be taken as far as
the (21/4 hrs.) Ool de Bovinant (6945 ft.), 1 hr. below the summit. Thence
the ascent is fatiguing but not dangerous. An early start should be
made, request being made the previous evening to have the door opened.
— The Orand-Bom (6670 ft.) ranks third amongst the peaks of the Grande
Chartreuse range, but it is scarcely infeiior to the two highest peaks, the
Dent de OroUes (6780 ft.), to the S.E., and the Fie de Chamechaude (6845 ft.).
As both of these are some way off, the *yiew from the Grand-Som is very
extensive: to the £. are the Alps of Savoy, including Mont Blanc ; to the
S.E. the Sept-Laux, the Belledonne, Taillefer, and Vercors ranges; to the
N. the Lac de Bourget and the .lura-, Lyons and the plains of the Lyon-
nais lie to the K.W. ; and to the W. are the Forez and Ard^che mountains.
In returning via Le Sappey carriages follow the new road to the
S., to the left of that to St. Laurent-du-Pout, and pass near the Cour-
rerie, now the farm-offices, which was formerly the residence of the
*Dom Courrier*, the estate-agent of the monastery. We soon join the
road ascending from the Pont St. Pierre (p. 359), and cross the Quiers-
Mort, at the Porte de VEnclos or du Orand-Logis, marking the limit
of the Desert in this direction. — 2 M. St. Piere -de - Churtreiue
(2785 ft.; Hotel du Desert and Hotel du Grand- Som, R.3, d^j.
3-3 V2, D. 3Vt-^i pens. 8-10 fr., well spoken of ; Hotel Victoria,
R. 2, d^j. 2, D. 2V2, pens. 6-8 fr.; Hot. Paquet, pens. 5-6 fr.; Hot,
du Nord). The road now ascelids for about 2 hrs., with occasional
fine views. — TVjM. Col de Porte (4440 ft.), in a wood, between
the Chamechaude (6845 ft.), on the left, and the Pinea (5835 ft.),
on the right.
From this point the Pinia may be ascended in U/a br.. the Charmmtt-
80m (6138 ft.) in 21/2 hrs. , and the Chamechaude (more difficult; better
from Le Sappey) in 3i/s hrs.
Beyond (8V4 M.) Sarcenas we have a view of the Alps of Dau-
phiny. — 10 M. L<! Sappey (3280 ft.; Hdt. des Touristes), in the
valley of the Vence. I3V4 M. Col de Vence (2460 ft.), between the St.
Eynard (p. 354), on the left, and the Rachals (p. 354), on the right.
Jhe most interesting part of the route begins beyond the latter col
(inn), where we obtain a magnificent ♦View of the valleys of thelsere
and theDraC; and of the mountains of Haut-Dauphin^. 15M. Corene.
To the left lie Bouqutron and Montfleury (p. 354). — At (16 M.)
La Tronche we enter the valley of the Isere. — 18 M. Qrtnohle.
from Orenoble. GORGES D'ENGINS. IV. Route 56, 361
IV. The Gorget d^Engins, Gorgei de la Bourne, and Gorgei de la
Vernaison.
From Grenoble to Villard-de-Lans, l^i/a M. \ thence to Pont-en-BopanSy
15 M. (or 2IV2 ^- if the detour by the Goulets be included); and thence
to the railway-station of (7 M.) St. Hilaire-St-Nazaire or of La S6ne (p. 356)
on the Grenoble and Valence line. — The Gorges de la Bourne and the
Goulets are specially worth visiting (also from Pont - en - Boyans , but
longer) , and the walk through them (41/4 brs.) is recommended. — A
public conveyance leaves Grenoble (Place Grenette 10) daily in summer
about 6 a. m., reaching ViUard-de-Lans (fare4fr.) in ^/g hrs. (dejeuner;
halt of 11/4 hr.), Pont - en - Ropans (8Va fi*.) in 10l/4hrs., and Si. Hilaire
(difl'erent vehicle \ 85 c.) in ll/g hr. more ; returning from Pont-en-Royans
about 8.15 a. III. (eomp. Indieateur). Circular tickets, permitting the
return by rail or vice versa, 15 fr. 10, 13 fr. 10, 12 fr. 10 c.
Another service of the same kind has recently been instituted from
Grenoble to Pont-tn-Royans vili VAlbenc (p. 355) and La Baime-de-Renewrel
(see below). The conveyance starts on the arrival of the first morning-train,
and leaves Pont-en-Royans at 4. 30 p. m. The tine mountain-road tra-
verses the grand Gorges de la Drevenne and reaches the valley of Uie
Bourne at La Balme, where a long detention takes place. The charge for
a carriage from (41/2 hrs.) L'Albenc to La Balme is 5 fr., thence to (Ti/s M.)
Pont-en-Royans 7 fr. From La Balme we may also proceed to (3i/2 M.)
the Pont de Gonle-Noire, which is passed by the vehicles mentioned above.
To (3^2 Af .) SasBtnage, see p. 355. The road then ascends a long
hill (2V2 M.) , commanding beautiful views. Below lies St. Egreve
(p. 350). Farther on we reach the Passage des Partes -d'Engins, a
defile in which the Fwon forms a cascade, above the gorges men*
tioned on p. 355. — About 2*/2M. beyond (9M.) Engine (Ooynel) the
road traverses the picturesque Gorges d'Engins, a ravine about
1^4 M. long, inferior, however, to the Gorges de la Bourne. —
13 M. Jaume, an inn at a fork of the road near Lans, to the left.
I7V2 M. Villard-de-Ianfl (3410 ft.; Hdtel de la Paste; de Paris;
Dauphinois; guide, Victor Marchand) is the usual starting-point
for the ascents of the Pic St, Michel (6355 ft. ; in ^2 hr. from the
Col de I* Arc, 3 hrs. to the E. N. E.), and of the Moucherolle or Qrand-
Arc (7510 ft.; 4^2 -5 hrs.; guide 8 fr.), which is after the Grand -
Yeymont (p. 372) the chief summit of the Montagnes de Lans.
About 2V4M. beyond ViUard we reach the ""Gorges de laBourne,
a narrow rocky ravine of great beauty , through which the Bourne
dashes. The road, sometimes high above the torrent, is in places
hewn out of the rock , in others supported on projecting galleries,
and iu others carried through tunnels and over bridges.
The direct route to Pont - en - Boyans descends the valley, passing a
second gorge beyond (25 M.) La Balme - de - Rencur el (Hot. Belle ^ Arnand;
route to L'Albenc, see above). ~ 29 M. Choranche (Hot. Continental). —
32 M. Pont-en-Royans., see p. 362.
A road, to the left, near the Pont de Ooule" Noire, the second
bridge in the Gorges de la Bourne , leads to (26 V2 M.) St. Julien-
en^Vereors., (28V2 M*) S** Martin- en -Vercors (H6t. du Vercors,
pens. 7-9 fr.), and (3IV2M.) Les Baraques (2165ft.; Hdt. Combet;
Kaoul ; Grenoblois), a hamlet situated above the Gran ds-Gou lets.
About 8I/2 If . higher up to the S. is La ChapeUe-en- Vercors (3100 ft. \
Hot. Bellier), with 1200 inhab. , whence the road goes on to Die (p. 424).
362 rv. Route 56, LA MURE. ExeurHom
The *0orge8 de la 7eniaito]i are fully as flue &g those of the
Bourne. The first gorge is knoirn as the Grands Qoultts, the second,
5Vg M. farther on, as the Petits Qoulets. — 38 M. Ste, Eulalie.
39 M. Pont-en-Boyans (980 ft.; Hdtel Bonnard, pens. 6-8 fr. •,
Hot.Repellin, Feugier, both unpretending), a picturesquely situated
little town, at the confluence of the Bourne and the Vernaisou,
dominated by a ruined chateau.
y. From Grenoble to Gap ▼!& La Mure.
Valbonnais and Valjouffirey. La Salette. Valgaudemar.
To La Mure, 31 M., Railway in 21/2-23/4 hrs. (fares 6 fr. 70, 3 fr. 85,
2 fr. 55 6.). — From La Mure to Corps ^ 151/2 M. , Diliordcb twiee daily
(thrice in summer) in 3 hrs. (3 fr.). — From Corps to (?ap, 33 M., Diliobmcb
twice daily in 51/2 hrs. (5-6 fr.). — Circular tickets to La Mure are issued at
Grenoble, with return by road via Laffrey (see below) and Vizille (p. 358) ;
fares 9, 7, 6 fr.
Grenoble, see p. 350. Thence to (12 M.) St, Georges- de-Com-
miers, see p. 371. Carriages are changed here; best views to the
right. The *Ligne de la Mure, beginning at St. Georges, is a nar-
row-gauge local line through a picturesque district, with important
coal-mines. It ascends 1975 ft. in 17 M. and descends again 145 ft.
in 2V2 M. — 16V8M. Notre- Dame- de-CommUrs (1570 ft,). —
Beyond the *Viaduc de la Rivoirey 980 ft. in height, we quit the
valley of the Drac. — 22VgM. La Motte-les-Baiiui (2315-2360 ft.;
Hotel du Chdteau, pens. 8-9 fr.; Hotel du Bois), in a dale shut in
by lofty mountains and ciose to the confluence of the Drac and a
brook which forms a fine waterfall, 425 ft. high. The Bath Eata-
blishment occupies an old chateau which has been restored and
enlarged. The waters are supplied by two springs (136^ and 144^
Fahr.) on the bank of the Drac, and are strongly impregnated with
chloride of sodium.
The Montepnard or Signal de Notre- Dame de Vaulx (5620 ft. ^ 3l/a-4 hrs.)
and the Seneppi (5760 ft. ; 31/2 hrs.) may be ascended hence for their views.
The next part of the railway is the most remarkable for the
engineering difficulties overcome. — 14 M. La Motte-d*AveUlans
(2845 ft.) has important coal-mines.
A branch-line runs hence to (18/4^0 Noire - Dame de Fotiter, another
coal-mining place, whence a diligence (3/4 hr. ; 1 fr.) plies to Laffirey (2986 ft. :
Hdtel Charlatx), the village where Napoleon met the troops sent against
him after his escape from Elba. A little to the left of the road lies the
Grand Lac de Laffrey (13/4 M. long and 1/2 ^- broad), and in the vicinity are
the smaller Lac Mori, Lac de Peiit-Chaty and Lac de Pierre-Ghdiely separated
from each other by a chain of hills. — A pretty walk leads from Laffrey
to the £. to (9 M.) La Morte, at the base of the Taillefer (p. 368).
We thread atunnel nearly V4 M. in length.— 28 VtM. l^eychagnard.
31 M. La Mure (2890 ft. ; H6t. FeLloux, du Nord, pens. 7-8 fr. ;
de la Gare, 6-8 fr.) has 3380 inhab. and manufactures of nails and
packing^canvas, marble-works, etc. To Mens and Clelles, see p. 372.
Fkom La Mubb to V121LLB, 13 M., diligence in 2-31/t hrs. (fare Sfr.);
circular tickets from Qrenoble, see above. The road leads past (3 M.) Pierre-
Chdtel and (5 M.) Laffrey (see above).
frwn Grenoble. CORPS. /F. Boute 56, 363
From La Hubs to Bouse - d*0i8Aks , 9Bl/s M. , publie conveyanee in '
81/2 hrs., in eonneetion with the first morning-train from Grenoble (fare
9 fr.). The Yalboanait and the ValjoufiMj are the parts of the valley
of the Bonne below and above Entraigues respectively. — We follow
the Gap road to (3 H.) Pont-Baut (see below) and thence ascend the
valley of the Bonne to the E. , past (8 M.) Valbonnais (3675 ft. -, Hot.
Dussert), with a chateau of the i7th cent., at the foot of the Quaro
(8560 ft.). -- From (11 M.) Entraigues (inn) we ascend the valley of the
Mdltanney a tributary of the Bonne. To La Salette^ see below. To the
£. rises the Pic Vert (8390 ft.). — The road then leads pai>t (14 M.) Le
Pirier (3025 ft.; Hot. des Alpinistes) and (17 M.) La Chalp (to the £., the
Pointe de Larmet^ 9135 ft.) to (301/2 M.) the Col dTOmon (4460 ft.), between
the Pie du Col d'Ornon (9435 ft.) and the Taillefer (p. 368). Thence it de-
scends the valley of the Lignare to (27 M.) La Paute^ II/2 M. from Bourg-
d'Oisans (p. 369).
Fhom La Mubb to La Ghapelle-bk-Valjoupfrey, 151 /2 m. From (11 M.)
Entraigues (see above) the road ascends the Bonne valley, via (13 31.)
Qragnolet, to (I51/2 M.) La Chapelle-en-Valjovffrey (3215 ft.; Hot. Guibert;
guide, P. Gaillard), a village near the foot of the Pic de Valsenestre
(9050 ft. ; guide 15 fr. ; difficult). About IV2 hr. from La Chapelle is
Valsenestre (4195 ft.; two inns; guide, Blanc Lapierre) , whence we may
cross the Col de la Jiuzelle (p. 381) to the valley of the Vdneon. — Farther
up the valley of the Bonne lies Le Disert - en - Va\jouffrey (4215 ft. ; two
inns; guides, C. Bernard, L. Rousset). Thence to St. Christophe-en-Oisans
via the Col de la Mariande (guide 15 fr.), see p. 383. From Le Desert
routes lead to La Chapelle -en- Valgaudemar (p. 364) via the Col de la
Vaure (8630 ft. ; 88/4 hrs.) and via the Col de Turbat (8926 ft. ; 9 brs.).
The road descends into the yalley of the Bonne, crosses it at
(3 M.) Le Pont-Hautj and ascends to the fertile plateau of Beau-
mont, To the right are the Ohiou (see below) and other mountains
of the D^voluy (p. 372). — 71/2 M. La SaUe Clldt. des Voyageurs).
15Vi M. Corps (3155 ft. ; Hdt, du Palais ; Hot. de la Poste), a tiny
town on a terrace overlooking the valley of the Drac. *
A road leads to the S. past (6 M.) Pella/ol to (71/2 M.) La Poeterle (inn),
from which may be made in 6 hrs. , with guide, the difficult ascent of the
Obiou (9165 ft. ; fine view), the chief summit of the Devoluy.
From Corps to Notre-Pame-de-la-Salbtts, about 6 M. . omnibus by
a bad road (4 fr., retarn^fare from La Mure 121/2 1 fi'om Gap I0I/2 fr.; mule
^/st 51/2, 81 /2 fr.). The road ascends a small valley, and farther on
skirts the stream. The scenery is not uninteresting. Beyond the (3 M.)
village of La Salette we make a wide circuit to the left to reach the shrine.
— Notre -Dame -de -la -Salette, consisting of a church (built 1852-61) and
two ^hostels' (one for either sex), is situated on a small plateau (5910 ft.)
between mountains wholly covered with pastures. Here , according to
their story, the Virgin appeared in 1846 and spoke to a boy and girl,
13 and 14 years old respectively. The tale was not at first fully accepted
by the ecclesiastical authorities, but pilgrims soon flocked hither from
all sides and they still come in great numbers , especially on the anni-
versary of the alleged appearance, Sept. 19th. On the actual spot where
the apparition took place are groups of statues which represent the
several scenes in the story. Beside one of these is the Fountatn to which,
according to the legend, the tears of the Virgin gave rise. Its water is
in great request and is widely distributed like that of Lourdes. The
neighbouring height surmounted by a cross commands an interesting
view of the Devoluy; but a better view is obtained from the Qargas
(7260 ft. ; ascent in I1/4 hr)) farther to the left.
From Corps to La CHAPEiiLB-BD -Valgaudemar, about 16 M. , by the
Valgaudemar or Valgodemar^ the valley of the Siveraisse. Omnibus to St.
FimUn^ fare 3 fr. — The road diverges from the road to Gap at (3i/o M.)
the Pont de la Triniti (p. 364) and leads vi& (6 M.) St. Firmin (3117 ft. ;
364 IV, Route 5«. ST. BONNET.
Hot. DaviB), (ICn/a M.) St. Maurice, and (181/a M.) 7t»ard-Xtf«K«r#. — 16 M.
Lft Ohapelle-en-Valffaudemar (3445 ft. ; ff6i. Oueydan) , a good centre for
ascents (guide, PMl. Vincent): Pic cT Olan (S . ^ehli^ 11,740 ft. ^ 12hr8^ftuide
40, porter 20 fr.), an ascent of the first class \ Aiguille des Morges (98fl3 ft. ;
8Va hrs.-, guide 8 fr.), easy^ Pies de Pariiret (8. peak, or Tiie de Glapkoute,
ca. 10,000 ft.-, Thrs.; guide 8 fr.), fairly easy; Pic de Turbat (9940ft.;
6V4 hrs.). From La Chapelle to Ghampolion (p. 878) vift the Col de Vol
Egtriehe (8596 ft.), 8 hrs. , fairly easy (guide 8fr.); to St. Ghri»tophe-en-
Oisana^ see p. 384.
About 3 hrs. farther up the valley is Le Clot-ea-Valgaudemar (4830 ft.;
Hdt. Armand; Refuge- H6tel Xavier Blanc), another excursion-centre (eomp.
pp. 388, 389). to Lea Routes (11,928 ft.; 7 hrs.: guide 20 fr.); the Varivier
(10,836 ft. ; 6I/9 hrs. ; 20 fr.) ; Pics du Says (11,064 ft. and 11,186 ft. i 8-9 hrs. -,
15 fr.) ; Mont Gioberney (10,990 ft. ; 6l/j hrs. ; 30 fr.). To St. ChHstophe-eu-
Oisans via the. Col de la Muande (lOi/a hrs.), see p. 384.
The road from Corps to Gap descends the valley of the Drac. —
3 M. Le Mothy, a hamlet belonging to Aipres-Us- Corps. — 3Vt M.
¥ont de la TriniU (2535 ft.), on the S^veraisse. To the Yalgaude-
mar, see p. 363. — 7^/j M. Chauffayer (2990 ft.). We cross the Drac.
— &I2 M. La Ouinguette; i'd^/^M, Let Baraques.
On the opposite bank (bridge) lies St. Bonnet (3363 ft.; mt. Filix Para;
des Alpes) , the birthplace of Lesdiguihres (1543 - 1636) , who was long the
leader of the Oalvinista of this district, but in 1633 changed sides and
fought against them that he mieht reach the Gonstableship , the great
object of his ambition (comp. p. 351).
The road now ascends and quits the valley of the Drac. The
upper part of this valley is called the Champsaur (^campus auri\
field of gold) f^om its former fertility before the destruction of its
woods. — 14 M. Brutinel; I6V2 M. Laye. — ISVs M. Col Bayard
(4085 ft.; inn). The road now descends rapidly in zigzags. —
I9V2 ^' Ckauvet.
23 M. Qapf see p. 373.
57. From Grenoble to Chamb^ry. Allevard and
its Environs.
a. From Grenoble to Chamb^ry.
39 M. Eailway in 1 V4-2 hrs. (fares 7 fr. 5, 4 fr. 75, 3 fr. 10 c). The best
views are on the left.
Orenohle, see p. 350. This line ascends the part of the Isere valley
known as the G^rc«M;aMd<inyaW«i/('Gratianopolitanuspaga8*), which
is very beautiful. To the right appears the Belledonne (see below)
and to the left the outskirts of the Grande Chartreuse group (p. 360).
3^/4 M. Oieres - Uriage. Tramway to Uriage, p. 3j6. Beyond a
short tuiuiel we reach the Isere, which follows a very devious course.
— 7 M. Domlne (Udt. du Oercle; Hdt. des Arts), a paper-making
town with the interesting ruins of an "abbey of the 11th century.
About 11/9 hr. to the S.E. is Revel (3073 ft.; Hdt. Liaud; guides, J.
B. Liaud and Fr. Eymard), whence the Croix de Belledonne (9535 ft.) may
be ascended in 81/2-9 hrs. (with guide). The route leads vii the (8Vihr».)
Pr^-Reymond, the (O/a h'Otwo Grozet Lakes, where the Orande-Lance rises
on the left and the Colon (7846 ft.) on the right, and the (V4br.) Col de laPra
(Chalet-Hdtel, where the night is spent). Thence to the top, see p. 357.
PONTCHARRA-SUR-BR^DA. /F. Boute 57. 365
10 M. Lancey (Hdt. deTlsere; Griinoui), a hamlet IVjhr. from
La Comhe-de- Lancey (guide), from which may also be made the
ascent to the Groix de Belledonne (p. 364) in 7 hrs. (the Revel
route is joined at Pr^-Reymond). On the right, farther on, is the
16th cent. Chateau de Vorz. — I2V2 M. Brignoud. On the left of
the valley is the Dent de CroUes, behind which is the Grande Char-
treuse (p. 359). — 16 M. TenHn (757 ft. 5 H6tel Flachat), on the right,
with an 18th cent, chateau, which has superseded that of Mme. de
Tencin (1681-1749), the mother of D'Alembert. Near it is the
Bout-du- Monde, a fine gorge with a waterfall.
From Tencin a road runs to (4 M.) Theys (H6t. Moreynas; guides), a
little town whence we take 8V2 brs. to reach the Sept-Laux (p. 367), via
(3 hrs.) Le Merdaret (6035 ft.), a kind of pass commanding a fine view ;
thence past the (2 hrs.) Chalet de Oleyzin , where the road from Allevard
is joined (see p. 367).
18V2 M. Goncelin (Hot. Bayard; Caf^-Restaurant at the station).
From this small town omnibuses run 10 Allevard (p. 366; IV2 hr.)
and to (2 M.) Le Touvet (25 c; Hdt. Navizet), on the other side of
the valley , beyond which is the Haut du Seuil or Aut du Scieu
range of mountains. — 2IV2 M. Le Cheylas-la-Buissilre, beyond
which, on the right, is the Chdteau Bayard, the birthplace (1476;
died at Romagnano in 1524) of the 'knight without fear and without
reproach' (p. 351). Farther on, to the left, is Fort Barraux, which
commands the valley of the Isere and was a frontier stronghold pre-
vious to the annexation of Savoy. Charles Emmanuel, Duke of
Savoy, built it, as an act of bravado , under the very eyes of Les-
diguieres (p. 364), who allowed the work to go on but seized it
as soon as it was finished and armed, in 1598.
25V2 ^* Pontcharra-snr-Br^da (Hot. Domenjon), a small town,
with a modern tower on the site of the castle in which St. Hugh of
Liacolii (1135-1200) is said to have been born. Pontcharra is con-
nected by tramway with (9V2 M.) Allevard (p. 366) and by om-
nibus with (2 M.) Barraux (H6t. des Voyageurs) and (4V2 M.) Cha-
V<ireiUan (Hdt. du Commerce ; Leroy), a place of 2180 inhabitants.
From Ghapareillan the ascent of the Oranier (6340ft.; view), the
northernmost summit of the Grande Chartreuse range, may be made in
W4-5 hrs. with a guide (Jules Bonnard of Ghapareillan).
We presently cross the Br^da. On the W. is the Grariier and
OH the N. the Dent du Nivolet, with its cross (p. 313). — 28V2 M.
^te. Helhne- du^Lac. The village, on the shore of a large lake, is
wM. to the right. — Beyond this station the Isere is crossed, and from
the bridge we get a good view of the valley. — 307? M. Montmelian^
on the Turin line (Albertville, see p. 313). — 33V2 M. ChifjTbin-
^^i'Marches, We have a parting view of the Granier on the left
and arrive at (39 M.) ChamUry (p. 312).
366 / V. Route 57. ALLEY ARD.
b. AUeyard and its Xnyironi.
Oomp. Ma/p^ p, 368.
Approaoh. Railway (Gtrenoble and Gfaamb^ry line) to P<mtchwra
(p. 365) and thence by Tramway (1 fr. 40, 85 e.) to (9i/2 M.) AlUvard in
3/4 hr. The tramway follows the valley of the Br^da via (5 M.) DHrier.
Hotels. Gravd-Hotel dbs Plantas (pens. 9-12 fr.), du Loutsb (pens.
8-131/2-fr.), DV PARC (8-12 fr.) , these three in the park of the Establish-
ment \ DB France bt dbs Alpbs, pens. Tl/s-d fi*. v i>u Comhbkcb; du Dauphikb,
ddj. 2Vai ^- 3i pens. 6fr. ^ Bbausbjour; Victoria ^ du Chalet dbs Chat-
AioviERS, near the station. — Many Furnished B<nue$.
Baths, 1 fr. 25-1 fr. 70 c. — Douches, 1 fr. 5-2 fr. 50 c. — Mimbral
Water. Subscription, 14 fr.
Oaaino. Subscription, 10 days, 15 fr. \ fortnight, 20 fr. ; three weeks, 25 fr.
Guides, 7, 10, or lo fr. per day^ porters, 5, 6, or 10 fr. The tariff
should be consulted. Jos. Baroz (father and son), Franq. Davids Jos.
Chavot^ of AUevard; Jean Rey^ Jean and Siraphin Baroz .^ Ant. Jfounier^ of
La Ferriere (p. 367); Ach. Bioi, of Pinsot (p. 367).
Horses, Sonkoys, and Garxiages for excursions, see the posters. —
Saddle-horse, about 3 fr. per hr., donkey 1 fr.
AlUvard (1560 ft.), a town of 2726 inhab. , on the left bank of
the Breda, in one of the most delightful of the Dauphiny valleys,
possesses a much-frequented and well-managed Thermal Establish-
ment. The sulphur spring (61° Fahr.) which feeds it is used for
baths and drinking but especially for inhaling in diseases of the
respiratory organs. Adjoining the establishment is a pretty park
with a casino. The town itself is badly built, and has less the air
of a health-resort than of a manufacturing place, possessing iron-
works where the raw material from the neighbouring mines is con-
verted into iron and steel of good quality. On the right bank of
the Br^da is an 18th cent. Chdteau, surrounded by a fine park.
The church is a tasteful modern Gothic building.
Walks, indicated by direction-notices. — To the (I/4 hr.) Bout-du-Monde^
the upper end of the gorge of the Breda, a little above the iron-works
(I/2 fr. toll). This is a kind of ^cirque", surrounded by rocks and en-
livened by a waterfall. There is a public footpath on the right side. —
To the W. to (V4 hr.) La Bdtie^ a ruined mediSBval castle, commanding
a fine view. — To the (20min.) Tour du Treuil^ also dating from the
middle ages, and commanding a good view. — Another good point of
view is (U/ahr.) La Taillat (4410 ft.), to the 8., with the chief iron-
mines. — The view from Brame-Farine (3950 ft. \ chalet-hotel), the moun-
tain separating the valley of Allevard from the valley of Gr^sivaudan,
is somewhat hindered by trees. We proceed to the W. to (1-1 Va kr.) Le
Crozet (hotel) and thence in 1^4'^ ^^^- ^o the summit (rfmts.). The descent
to Le Crozet may be made by sledge (I/2 hr. ; 4 fr. for 1 or 2 pers.).
Ezoursions. To thb Ghartrbusb db St. Huoob , to the K.E. , 3 hrs.
by road (carriage 20 fr.), 2V2 hrs. by bridle-path. The carriage-road leads
past (1 hr.) La Cfiapelle-du-Bard (tramway) and (3/4 hr.) Le Pont-de-Bens ;
the bridle-path past (1 hr. 20 min.) Montgaren^ whence there is a splendid
view, and (i/ghr.) Beauvoir. The two routes unite before reaching (21/3 or
2 hrs.) the Pont du Diable, an old bridge more than 260 ft. above the bed of
the Bens. In 1/3 hr. more we reach the Ohartreose d« St. Hofon (2715 ft. ;
inn), founded lower down in 1175 and rebuilt on its present site in 1675.
The buildings were of considerable extent, but little of them is now left.
About 1/4 hr. from here are some old iron-works, in a picturesque spot.
To THB Sbpt-Laux, to the S., about 9 hrs., with guide (13, to the pyr-
amid 15 fr.). A carriage may be taken as far as (8Vs M.) Le Curtillard
(omn. 3 fr.). On foot, we take IV4 hr. by the left bank or U/j hr. by
ALLEVARD. IV. Route 57. 367
the right Bank of the Breda to reach Pintot (Hdtel des Glaciers ^ des
Vdyageurs ; guide, p. 366), which has a good view. Thence we follow
the right bank to (1 hr.) La Ferrihre (2980 ft. ; Hotel Tavel, unpretending ;
guides, p. 366), and (V4 hr. more) Le GnrtilUtrd (3250 ft. ; *H6i. dea Bains,
pens. 5-7 fr.: H&t. Baros; guide, p. 366), where there is a small mineral
water establishment. Farther on, the valley of the Breda is terminated
by lofty mountains, among which are the Belle-Etaile (8315 ft.) opposite,
and the JfoucUlon (7710 ft.) and the Rocher-Badon (8570 ft.), to the left.
The fine Cascade du Fissou or du Fond-de-France is in sight and may
be reached by a footpath from Le Curtillard in 3/4 ^'- — ^® now
have IS/4 hr. of stiff ascent to the Chalet de Gleytin (5280 fi.), where we join
the route from Theys via Le Merdaret (p. 366). Thence it is about 11/2^1*
to the Lac Noir. Beyond this we leave the Lac Carri on the right and
pass (Vs hr.) the Lac de la Jfotte, Lac Cotepen (near the Lac Blanc)^ and
(Va l*'-) the Lae du Cos or du Col (7160 ft.), where there are a fisherman's
hut and a CkaM-B&tely 5 min. from the Col des Sept-Laux (7165 ft.). This
upland valley is called S«pt-Laaz from the seven lakes in sight, but it
bas in reality eleven lakes, the others being higher up. It is a perfect
ehaos of rocks, whence its other name, Montaffnes AMmies. — The highest
summit overlooking the lakes is the Rocher-Bkmc or Pjframide d4s 8ept-
Laux (9615 ft. ; fine *View), to the E. of the Lac Blanc, from which it
may be ascended in 21/2 hrs. (guide from Allevard 16 fr., from the Sept-
Laux 5 fr.). — From the Chalet-Hotel we may reach Allemont in 51/2 hrs.
(with guide), by (1 hr.) the Col de VHomme^ which commands a fine view
of the Grandes Rousses and the mountains of the Gr^sivaudan, the
Cheminie du JHable^ a difficult couloir, and (2 hrs.) Le RMer - d^ Allemont
(1300 fl.; H6t. Moulin-, Ferreol) , a hamlet in the Combe d'Olle, at the
ower end of which is (6 M.) Allemont (p. 378).
To THB Pot Gris, to the S.E. , about 9 hrs. , with guide (15 fr.).
This ascent is difficult by the old route vi& Pinsot and the Combe de
Oleyzin , especially between the Col de Puy Oris (about 9t80 ft.) and the
(I hr.) summit', via Le Curtillard and the Combe de Valloire it is easy. By the
latter route we ascend the Combe de Valloire from Le CurUUard (see above)
to (IV3 hr.) the chalets of the Petite -Valloire (about 5180 ft.), those of
(3/4 hr.) the Grande- Valloire (6020 ft.), the little Lac Blanc, and, to the left,
the (II/4 hr.) Lac Noir (about 7540 ft.) and (I/3 hr.) Lac Glad (8035 ft.),
in sight of the sharply defined summit of the Puy Gris, to the right
of the Combe. Thence we proceed to the N.E. to the (1 hr.) Col de Comberonsse
or Col du LaeGlaci (about 9120 ft.) and the (3/4 hr.) Selle du Puy-Gris, pass
over the Glacier de CUraus on the 8. slope, skirt the base of the cliff
to a kind of couloir (easy), and finally ascend by the arSte to (15-20 min.)
the top. The Puy Oris (9710 ft.) is the highest summit in the neigbourhood,
and commands a splendid *Panorama, extending on the N.E. and £.
to Mont Blanc and the great peaks of the Tarentaise; on the S. and S.E.
to the peaks of Haut-Dauphine ^ on the N.W. to the Chartreuse range, etc.
To THE Gramd-Charnibr, to the E., 7 hrs., with guide (10 fr.). We
follow the Breda valley as far as (1/4 hr.) Panissih-es; then proceed to
the £. by the valley of the Veyton, which we do not cross at the first
bridge (3/4 hr. \ route ' to Pinsot ; see above), but do cross three times
farther on. In 21/4 hrs. from Allevard we reach the saw-mill of La Che-
vrette (3650 fl.), where we leave on the right a path leading to (78/4 hrs.) La
Chambre (n. 314) over C^V* hrs.) the Col de MerUt (7325 ft.). Our route as-
cends in 21/2 hrs. to the Col des Plagnes, at the foot of the Petit-Charnier
(6970 ft.), whence 21/4 hrs. of toilsome climbing bring us to the summit of
the Gxand-Oharnier (8410 ft.), one of the chief mountains in the range
which divides the Isere valley from that of the Arc. The view from the
top is very extensive.
To the Ohrand-Clooher or Pio da Fr«ne (9210 ft.), about 71/2 hrs. (with
guide), vi& the (21/9-3 hrs.) Chartreuse de St. Hugon (p. 366) and the (3 hrs.)
Col du Frine or de la Pierre (7875 ft.), then to the right by the arete. —
We may descend from the col vi& Les CHirettes to the railway -station
of La Chamtre (p. 314).
368 IV. Rmte 58. TIZILLE. From Grmohle
To the Orand-Cuohsron or OrandarHoolins (8060 ft.)., about 7 hrs. (with
guide), via the (2l/a-3 hrs.) Chartreuse de St. Hugon, the (2l/a hrs.) ChaUU
de la Montagne d'Arvillard^ and the (1 hr.) Col d« la Fraiche (7155 ft.).
Magnifieent view. — From the eol to La Chambrt (p. 314), 4 hrs.
68. From Orenoble to Briaii9on.
a. By Road.
Con^[>. the MapSy pp. 276, 378.
74 M. — From Grenoble io Bourg-d^OUoM^ ^S^UVL. Steam Tram-
way thrice a day in 3-31/4 hrs. (fares 5 fr. 30, 3 fr. 96 e.), starting from
the railway-station^ to Uriage (eomp. p. 356) in connection with every
train. — From Bourg-d^Oisans to jBr«a«fo», 40^/3 M., public conveyance
every morning in summer in 91/4 brs. in connection with the tramway and
the railway, and every night throughout the year in 8^/4 hrs. (fare 13 fr.) ;
to La Grave, 4 hrs. ; Le Lautaret, 6-7 hrs. ; Le MonMer, 7-8 hrs. — Bourg-
d'Oisans may also be reached by taking the railway from Grenoble to
(81 /a M.) Jarrie-ViziUe (p. 371), whence a branch-tramway connects with
the other at Vizille (see below). Passengers in the opposite direction
naturally alight at Jarrie- Vizille.
Grenoble, see p. 350. — Thence to (8 M.) Uriage, see p. 356. —
Beyond Uriage the tramway ascends a picturesque valley. 10 M . VaiU-
naveys-le-Haut; 11 M. Vaulnaveys-le^Baa ; 12 M. Pont-du-Mas.
14 M. Vizille (920 ft.; Hotel du Pare, near the chateau; du
Lion d'Or)j an industrial town with 4516inhab., on the i2omancAe,
is the Roman Vigilia, an important station on the military road
between Italy and Vienne. The large Chdteau (adm. 1 fr., to the
park 50 c.) was built in the 17th cent, by Lesdigoieres (p. 364),
enlarged in the 18th cent, and rebuilt after two conflagrations in
the nineteenth century. In 1788 the deputies of Dauphiny met
here, and heralded the Revolution by repudiating all taxes not
voted by the States-General. A Monument du Centenaire, with a
statue of Immortality by Ding, erected in 1888 in front of the castle,
commemorates this event. Above the main portal of the castle is an
equestrian statue of Lesdiguieres, by J. Richier.
I8V2 M. Sdohilien&e (Buffet; Hot. de la Oare; du Petit- Ver-
sailles)^ with an ancient castle.
The Taillefer (9385 ft.), to the S.E., may be climbed hence in Tl/j hrs.,
with guide (Eug. Mistral of Sdchilienne; 8fr. ; others at La Morte). The
shortest of the several alternative routes leads via (20 min.) St. Barthilemtf'
de-Sichilienne and (U/2 hr.) Belle-Lame, then through woods and meadows,
to the (1 hr.) C6te des Sallikret, the old Brou/Jier Mine (argentiferous ga-
lena), and the ArSte de Brov^fier, We leave on the right, after passing
Belle-Lauze, the hamlet oi La Morte (de'tour of V2-V4 hr.), where there is »
Chalet- ffdtel (4430 ft.) of the Societe des Touristes du Dauphin^. Thence
the ascent of the mountain takes 5 hrs. The superb *View from the
summit includes, besides the great peaks of this part of Dauphiny, the
mountains of Savoy as far as Mont Blanc. A ridge connects the Taillefer
with the (3/4 hr.) Pyramide, on the N.E., nearly as high. — We may de-
scend on the £. to Bourg-d^Oisans vi& Oullei and La Paute (p. 989), or we
may proceed to (SVa hrs.) Laffrey (p. 382) viil La Morte.
After a halt on the road to St. Barth^lemy (see above) the tram-
way enters the Gorge de TAvet, flanked by lofty wooded mountains,
to Brian^on. BOURG-D'OISANS. IV, Route 58, 369
and crosses the Romanche. Opposite ri'ses the Grande-Lance d'AUe-
mo]it(p. 380); behind it, the three peaks of Belledonne (p. 379). —
We pass several hamlets. — At (25 V2 M.) Livet (Hdtel Cuynat), at
the foot of the Orand-Oalbert (8415 ft.), we recross the Romanche.
The gorge becomes wilder; in front are the Grandes-Rousses (p. 378),
to the left the Grand Pic de Belledonne (p. 379), to the right the
Taillefer (p. 368). On the left a destructive torrent descends from
the Petite- Vaudaine, and another, no less dangerous, on the right,
from the Infemet or ComiUon (8180 ft.). We again cross the stream,
with a waterfall on the left. On emerging from the gorge we obtain
a Une view of the Combe d'OUe, a valley lying between the heights
of the Belledonne (on the left) and Grandes-Rousses (on the right),
and of the huge glaciers of the latter, above which rises the Eten-
dard (p. 379). — 30 M. RochetailUe-AUemont (233-2 ft.), whence a
road leads to the N.E., in about 1 hr., to Allemont, and Vs^^* farther
on to 0%; seep. 378. — Beyond (31M.) Les Qrande»-Sable8 our route
turns to the S. ; in front rises the N.W. part of the Pelvoux range,
with the Mont-de-Lans Glacier (p. 382). — 31 V4 M. La Paute-
Ornon (2395 ft;.), a hamlet whence a route leads to La Mure (p. 362),
by the Col d'Omon (p. 363). Ascent of the Taillefer^ see p. 368.
33V2M. Bourg-d'Oisans (2360 ft.; *Gr. Hot. de I Oiaans, R.
from 31/2, B. 1, d^j. 31/2, D. 4, pens. 7-9 ft-.; *Bdt. de VOberland
Franpais, opposite the station, pens. 7-12 fr.; Ramel; de Milan)^
with 2600 inhab., the chief place in the Oisans district, which in
Roman times was held by the Uceni, is a recognised starting-point
for the Pelvoux range (p. 378). Diligence to St. Ghristophe, p. 380.
The road continues to ascend the valley of the Romanche. To
the left, on the height, is Huez (p. 379). — The (36^/2 M.) Pont
St. Guillerme (2435 ft.) crosses the stream to Le Clapier, where the
carriage-road up the valley of the V^n^on (p. 380) diverges to the
right.. The scenery becomes still more picturesque at the Rampe
des CommereSj where we enter a wild ravine. The houses of Auris
are seen at a height of 1600 ft., perched on the apparently inacces-
sible rocks of the right bank. In about V2 M. from the bridge the
road enters a tunnel, beyond which is a beautiful view down the
▼alley overlooked by the Grandes-Rousses. — 37 V2 M. La Rivoire.
A braneh-road leads hence, passing Bon$ and a Soman Oattway hew n
in the rock, to (31/2 X-) Moni-de-Lans (two inns), a hamlet that has given
its name to the chief glacier in Dauphiny, which, however^ lies over 3 M.
to the S. £. as the crow flies (p. 383).
38V2 M. Le Qarcin, V2 M* heyond which we have a ♦View up
the Gorge of the Infemet, the finest part of the route, with another
tannel, nearly 200 yds. long, with three lateral openings.
4OV2M. Le Freney-d'OUana (3090 ft.; Hotel de r£urope, plain).
The Pic de rEtendard, see p. 379. — To V^ote over the Col de VAlpe^
see p. 381. — We may also visit the (51/2 hrs.) Refuge du Lac Noir (p.382),
vil (1 hr.) Jfont-de-Lans (see above) and the (II/4 hr.) Chalett of Mitlortoi
(6810 ft.). — About I8/4 M. from Le Freney, to the left of the routo
Baedeker. Southern France. 4th Edit. 24
370 /v. noute 58, LA GRAVE. " From Qrenoble
for La Ghrave (see below), is the village of Mitoin (S900 ft.), eommand-
ing a fine view.
We euter a third narrow ravine, still wilder than the others,
where for a time the road is on a level with the stream. To the
left is the road to Mizoen (see above). Beyond (43 M.) Le Dauphin
(3280 ft) we cross the Bomanche and traverse the Combe de Mal-
aval, a gorge worn in the gneissic rock. To the left, 2 M. farther
on, is the Pisae Waterfall, 650 ft. high; the road then returns
through a chaos of fallen rocks to the level of the stream. On the
right is the huge Olacier de Mont-de'-Lans (p. 382) with its cas-
cades. Farther on is a curved tunnel. The road passes between a taic-
work, with a cable -tramway, and an old lead-mine. To the right
the famous peak of the Meije (p. 385) rises among other glaciers.
— 48V2 M. Le8 Freaux (2545 ft.), a hamlet beyond which, on the
left, is the Saut de la Pucelle, a waterfall 260 ft in height.
40V8M. LaOraye (5000 ft ; Hotel de la Meije or Juge, Hot, det
Alpee or Tairrojt^ both good), a large village, to the S. of which the
Meije presents a magnificent *yiew. — Excursions, see p. 393.
We next pass through two tunnels, 306 and 650 yds. long,
both lighted by electricity. Between them we cross a stream, and
beyond the second a short-cut follows the telegraph-wires.
51 Vt M. Villard-d'Ardne (5415 ft; Hotel Clot, unpretending).
— Excursions, see p. 393.
The road now quits the Romanche and ascends to the left; foot-
paths to the right save about 1 Vt M. Fine view of the Meije to the
right We cross meadows containing many rare plants, and ascend
to the col , facing the upper end of the valley of the Romaache,
which turns to the S. Fine view of the tcrins (p. 386) in front, the
Orande-Buine (p. 394) to the right, and the Pic de Neige Cordier
(p. 393) to the left; behind us, the Orandes-Bousaes (p. 378). Short-
cut to the left.
57 M. Le Lautaret (6790 ft), the highest point on the route,
with the OrandnHdtel des Qlaeiera (R. 4-5, d^j. or D. 3Vt7 pens. 7-
10 fr.), connected with which is a Hospice, a frequented summer-
resort ( post and telegraph office ). The view is limited , though
very fine towards the W. and S.W., embracing the above-named
mountains and their glaciers. — Excursions and road to St. Michel-
de-Maurienne, see p. 396.
The Brian^on road then descends into the Ouisane Valley, with
the Pic de Rochebrune (p. 377) long in view. The retrospective
view is very striking. To the left is the Orand-Qalibier (p. 397),
to the right the Pic de Combeynot (p. 396) and the Pic dt$ Agneawt
(p. 398). About IV4 M. from the col the route to the Galibier (p.
397) diverges to the left. The road next traverses two tunnels
(160 and 440 yds. long), constructed to protect it from landslips.
Farther on, the Meije disappears from view. We pass four villages
lying below us,, to the right.
toBHanfon, ST. GEORGES-DE-COMMIERS. / K JJ. 5^. 371
65 M. MondUer- lei -Bains (4890 ft.,* Hotel de V Europe:
Alliey, pens. 5-8 fr.), formerly Monetier- de- BHanpon, on the left
bank of the Guisane, is a town of 2052 inhab., with two springs and
an unpretending thermal establishment. — Excursions, see p. 397.
Beyond Le Monetier the road descends gently to the bottom of
the fertile and thickly - peopled valley of the Quisane and passes
numerous villages. To the right is the Pic de Prorel (p. 376). —
74 M. Brian^on (p. 376).
b. By Railway.
136 M. From Grenoble to Gap, 841/2 M., in 51/3-61/4 brs. (fares 15 fr. 45,
10 fr. 40, 6fr, 70 c.). — From Gap to Briangon^ 511/2 M., in 31/4-4 hrs.
(fares 9fr. 30, 6 fr. 35, itt. 10 c). — To Gap via La Mure, see p. 362.
Qrenohle, seep. 350. — This line, which as far as (68 M.)
Veynes is also the Marseilles line, is remarkable both on account
of its skilful engineering and of the country it traverses. For some
distance it ascends the valley of the Drac , with a fine mountain-
view on the left, while behind us opens a retrospect of the Grande
Chartreuse group. 5 M. Pont -de- Claix (Restaurant Grattier) , a
hamlet owing its name to a curious 17th cent, bridge over the Drac.
Tramway to Grenoble, see p. 350. At Jarrie, to the left farther on,
is the 15th cent. Chdteau de Bonrepos. Beyond a short tunnel we
reach the confluence of the Drac and the Romanche. — 8V2 M.
Jarrie- VizilUy 1^4 M. from Vizille (p. 368; tramway 30, 20 c.). —
We cross the Brian^on road and the Romanche; behind, to the right,
is the Grande Chartreuse group.
12 M. St. Georges -de-Commiers (1033 ft.; Hotel Vincent).
Branch-line to La Mure and thence to Corps and Gap, see p. 362.
— Our line crosses the wide bed of the Drac, beside a suspension-
bridge. — 13 M. Fi/(H6t. du Nord, etc.), V4 M. to the right. Hence
to Villard-de-Lans (p. 361) over the Col de TArc, 5 hrs.
We now enter upon the most remarkable section of the *Railway,
which rapidly ascends by means of two spiral curves. At the end
of the first curve we see, far below us, to the left, the viaduct,
Vif and its station , the Drac , and St. Georges ; while a fine *View
of the mountains opens on the same side. We once more find our-
selves in the valley of the Drac. High up, on the opposite side, is
the line to La Mure. We finally quit the valley by the second spiral
curve , on which there is a tunnel , '/4 M. long. Beyond the next
viaduct the Moucherolle (p. 361) rises on the right, and farther
on the Grand -Veymont (p. 372). — 2OV2 M. St. Martin -de -la-
Cluze (2040 ft.). — Four tunnels are traversed before (26 V2 M.)
Le Monedtier -de "Clermont (2740ft.; Hotel de la Gare; du Lion
d'Or). On issuing from the next tunnel ( Vj M. long) we have a
glimpse, to the right, of the sharp Mont Aiguille (p. 372). To
the left sttetches the wide broken plateau of the Trieves, beyond
which rise the rugged mountains of the D^voluy (p. 372). The
24*
372 IV. Haute 58. CL£LL£S>MENS. Frim OrenohU
Grand -Yeymont and the Mont Aiguille appear again on Uie right.
— 92 M. St. Michel- U$- Fortes (3015 ft.), a station 1 */« M. to the
E. of the village of Les Fortes (fl6t. du Soleil-Levant).
The Orand-yeymont (7695 ft.), the chief Bammit in the long chain to
which the MoucberoUe (p. 361) also belongs, may be easily ascended hence
in 4-5 hrs. (guide 6 fr.), vi& the valley of the PeUat (to the W.), Freyehbnei,
and the Col de la FouilU (about 6160 ft.), on the S. of the summit, which
is reached in li/a hr. more. We may descend past Pellas and Tr^tMn*
to the station of Clelles (see below), on the 8.E.
The ascent of the Hont Aifuille (6880 ft.), 3 hrs. to the S.W. of Les
Fortes, which takes 3Va ^b- from the foot of the elifi's, is fit only for steady
heads and sure-footed mountaineers; a rope and guide (20 fr.) are necessary.
The view is rather limited.
Beyond St. Michel tunnels and viaducts follow each other in
rapid succession. Fine views are obtained in the rear , to the left,
and of the Mont Aiguille to the right. — BdVs M. CleUes-Meni
(2725 ft.; *H6tel Ferat, at the station). Clelles lies 1 M. to the
£., on the road to Mens (see below).
The Mont Aiguille (see above) is ascended hence in 5i/s hrs.
Fbom Clelles to La Murb, 90 M.. mail -ear and ezeursion • ear (in
summer), halting 3 hrs. at Mens. The nrst stage takes 2 hrs. (fare 1 Va ^^'h
the second Sl/a hrs. (I8/4 f')- — 81/2 M. Hens (3617 ft. ; (Lion d'Or; des Alpes),
whence another road runs to (i9Vs M.) Corps (La Salette, p. 883). To the
£. rises the Chdtel (6370 ft. ; 4 hrs.) and to the S. £. rises the Obiou (p. 363)^
the ascent of which is dangerous from this side. — The road to La Mure
runs to the N. — I2V2 M. St. Jean-d'HiroM. — 20 V. La Mure (p. 363).
Several more tunnels and viaducts are passed, both before and
after (41 V2 M.) St. Maurice-en- Trieves (3220 ft. ; small buffet). The
Trieves ends in a small wooded gorge, soon after which the rail-
way attains its culminating point , at the Col de la Croix - Haute
(about 3825ft.). — 51 M. Lus-la- Croix- Haute (3325 ft; H8t. de la
Poste). To the E. are the mountains of the Devoluy, a district so
named, it is said, from the Latin 'devolutum', on account of the
landslips to which it is liable and the havoc wrought by the torrents
since the destruction of the timber on the mountains. The chief
height is the Ohiou (p. 363), on the N. ; next, the Orand - Ferrand
(9060 ft.) , to the left, above the village of Lus , and the Monfagne
d'Aurouze, culminating in the Fie de Bure (8900 ft.).
Ascents of the Obiou and the Pic de Bure, see pp. 963, 874. — The
Grand -Ferrand (9060 ft.) may be aseended from Lus in 8 hrs. The route
leads through the Vallon du Trdbuieh^ or valley of the Jarjattey to the Oranges
des Forits or La Baraque (about 4360 ft.) ^ carriage to this point in iy^ia.
Thence we ascend past the (IV4-2 hrs.) small £ao /Vrr««4 (6400 ft.) to the
(1/2 hr.) Col de Chamier or de Ferrand {liOO it.) ^ on the right of the PetU-
Ferrand or Tite de Lauton (8510 ft.). We then pass (1 hr. •, 8365 ft.) be-
tween the Ferrands^ and finally reach the summit after I3/4 hr.'s difficult
climb over the crumbling slopes of the mountain. Fine view, espeeially
on the N.E. as far as Mont Blanc and on the E. of the Pelvoux.
The railway now descends the valley of the Bufch , and crosses
the stream. — 55 M. St. Julien -en- Bemuhene (3025 ft. ; H6t.
des Alpins), 3 M. to the N. £. of which is the ruined Chartteu^t de
Durhon. — 64 M. A^pres- Mir- JBii«c A (2500 ft ; Hdt. Malaterre).
To the right diverges the liae to Die (p. 424). Beyond a tunnel and
to Briancm, GAP. IV. Route 58. 373
a bridge the line enters the valley of the Petit-Buech to the N.E.,
leaving the line to Marseilles on the right.
68 M. Veynes (2675 ft.; Bujfet-Hdtel; Hdt. Dousselin), a small
town, the junction for the lines to Digne and Marseilles, see RR.
61, 68. — The Gap line crosses the Labeoux. To the left is the Pic
de Burt (see below), to the right the Montague de G^uze (6620 ft.)-
— 72 M. Montmaur, a village IV4M. to the left, has an old chateau.
The Pie de Bore (8900 ft. : fine view) may be ascended from the station
in 6-61/8 hrs. , with guide, via the (81/2 brs.) Plateau de Bure.
75V2M. La Roctie-deS'Amauds (3095 ft.). To the left appears
the Montague de Charance (6240ft.). Beyond (78V8M.) La Freisu-
nouse is a viaduct of two stories, 170 ft. high, followed by a sharp
descent.
84^/2 M. Gap (2425 ft. ; Buvette ; Hot. dea Negociants, de Provence,
du Nord, all in theRueCarnot), the Vapincum of the Romans, a town
with 1 1,376 inhab., is situated on the Tjuye, a tributary of the Durance.
Gap was formerly of greater importance, but it suffered much in the
Religious Wars, was ravaged by the plague in 1630, and was burned
in 1692 by Victor Amadeus II. of Savoy. Turning to the right from
the station, and again to the right, we reach a Statue of Ladoucette
(d. 1848), a former prefect of the department, by E. Marcellin.
Thence the Rue Oarnot leads to the right to the Rue Elis^e, at the
end of which is a^ Statue of E. Marcelliu (1821-84), the sculptor,
by Schroeder. Farther on, to the right, is the Cathedral, rebuilt in
1866 et seq., a handsome modern structure showing a mixture of
the Romanesque and Gothic styles. In the same square is the
Bishop* 8 Palace^ and a little farther on is the Prefecture, containing
the Monument of Lesdiguieres (p. 364), by Jacob Richier, brought
to Gap at the Revolution, and a small local Museum,
From Gap to Gorpe (La Salette)^ La Mure^ etc., see pp. 364, 363.
About 81/2 M. to the S. (diligence, 1 fr. 60 c), on the road to (35 M.)
Sisteron (p. wX) , is Tallard (hotels) , on the right bank of the Durance,
with a ruined *CMtle (14-16th cent.), burnt in 1692, many portions of
which are still in tolerable preservation.
FsoH Gap to Champ&libok avd to ORCiiKBS , 18 and 18V2^-> dili-
gence daliy to Oreieres (5 hrs., 3 fr.), which passengers for ChampoUon
quit at (I51/2 M.) Pont des Oorinkres. Orcikres (Hot. de la Poste) is of little
importance to tourists; but ChampoUon or BoreU-en-GhampoUon (7160ft.;
inns kept by the guides J. Vincent and Babel) is the best starting-point
for the ascent of the •Vieuz-Chaillol, or GhaiUol-le-Vieil (10,375 ft.), the
chief summit in the S. part of the Pelvoux system. The ascent (7 hrs.) is
made by a mule-track vi« the (41/4 hrs.) Col de la Yinasque (ea. 8365 ft.)
and the (II/4 hr.) Col de Robepron (8910 ft.). The •Panorama of the moun-
tains of High Dauphiny is one of the finest in the district. — Descent to
<S^ Bonnet^ see p. 364. Another fatiguing but not difficult descent may be
made, with guide, to (4V2-5 hrs.) the Valgaudemar, by (N.) the (2 hrs.) Col
de Londeniire or du Sellon and the (3/4 hr.) Combe des Navettet^ whence we
reach La ChapeUe ««•• Valgaudemar (p. 364) in 11/2-13/4 br.
9OV2 M. La Bdtie-Neuve-le-Lam (2815 ft.). At La Batie (H6t
Gelpi) is a ruined chateau of the bishops of Gap. An omnibus runs
hence in 1 V2 !»'• (f*re 1 ^4 ft.) to Notre- Dame-dwLaus, a pilgrimage-
374 IV, Route 58. BARCELONNETTE. From Grenoble
resort in a valley .to the S. — 95 M. Chorges (H6t. de la Poste), a
village of ancient origin (Caturiga), with a few traces of Celtic-
Roman works. Beyond it we descend sharply , cross two viaducts,
and traverse two tunnels, between which , to the right, appears the
Durance. — 99 M. Prunierea (2415 ft.; Hdtel Sarazin; de la Gare).
From Prdni^bbs to Barcblomvbttb (Jfayasset^ Larche), 351/3 X., Diligenee
thrice daily in 41/2 hrs. (fare 31/3 fr.)- ^o time should be lost in securing
seats. —The road ascends the Vallie de VUhaye^ to the S.E., via (8 M.) Uhaye^
(13 M.) Le Lauzet (hotels) , (18 M.) Revel^ opposite Mdolans , and (2U/2 M.) Les
Thuiles. — 251/2 M. Baroelonnette (3710 ft. ; ffdtel du Nord), a town with 2288
inhab., on the right bank of the Ubayty was founded in the 13th cent, by
Raymond Berenger, Count of Provence, a scion of the house of Barcelona.
Alternately owned by Savoy and France, it was finally acquired by the
latter at the Peace of Utrecht (1713) in exchange for Gastel Delflno (p. KX)).
Probably no town suflfered so much in the frontier-wars as Barcelonnette.
Many of the inhabitants leave the district in winter to carry on various
trades in the plains. Barcelonnette has a bell-tower of the loth cent, and
a small museum (Musee Ghabrand). — The town is surrounded by pictur-
esque mountains ., as yet little known, but offering many fine excursions.
In the chain vtrhich divides the Ubave valley from that of the Durance,
to the N., are the Qrand-Birard (9996 ft.; the highest), opposite Barcelon-
nette; on the right of it, the Petit -Glautia (9^ ft.); on the left, the
SonaiUe or Grande- Eperviire (9396 ft.) ; behind, the Parpaillon (9830 ft.), etc.
In the chain on the N.E. , beyond which is Larche (p. 375) , rise the Tite
de Cuguret (9530 ft. ; see below), the Sommet du Vallon-Long (9970 ft.), etc.
From Barcelovvette to Allos (Co'mars^ St. Andri-de-M^ouUlesy^HHIL.
(no public conveyance-, short-cuts for walkers). The district traversed
is picturesque but almost uninhabited. From (7 M.) Xej Agneliert-Bcu
the Roc de SMane (9547 ft.), a good point of view, may be easily ascend-
ed in 41/3 hrs. Near the (I2V2 M.) Col dM»o« is a 'refuge national'. 17 M.
la Faux (5440 ft. ; inn). — 22 M. AUm (4675 ft. ; •H6t. du Midi), a village
to the S. of the Roehegrande (7913 ft.), is frequented as a summer-resort.
Pleasant excursion (with guide) to (2-21/2 hrs.) the Lac d'Allos (7340 ft.). —
Diligence from Alios to Colmars and St. Andri-de-Miouillety see p. 404.
From Barcblori^btte to St. Pavl-sur-Ubatb ahd Haljassbt, 221/3 M.
(diligence as far as St. Paul in 21/3 hrs., fare 2 fr. 20 c). From Barcelon-
nette the road continues to ascend the Ubaye valley via (I1/3 M.) Faucon^
(5 M.) Jautiert (4265 ft. ; Hot. du Poulet), and (71/3 M.) Cfrndamine - Chdtelard
(4290 ft. ; Hot. du Commerce), whence a road leads to Embrun (p. 875).
Farther on is the Fort Toumoux ^ on a height above the confluence of the
Ubaye and Vbayette. At (9 M.) Oleizolles the road to Larche diverges on
the right (see below). — I31/3 U. St. Paul-rar-TTbaye (4820 ft. ; H6tel Hellion)
has quarries of green marble. The Bree de ChanUteyron (11,115 ft. may be
ascended hence in 71/2-8 hrs., via (2 hrs.) FouUloute (6075 ft.) and the CM
d9lla Gippiera (%74 ft.). To Guillestre over the Col de Van, see p. 399-
-^ Beyond (I71/2 M.) St. Antoine the valley narrows to a romantic gorge.
191/3 M. La Blaehihre. — 221/3 M. HalJaMet or Maurin (6265 ft. ; inn) has
quarries of green and other marble. The Aiguille de Chambegnm (11,156 ft.),
to the £., may be ascended hence in 7-71/3 hrs. To the Valine du Guil
by the G0I9 de Oirardin and de Tronchet., see p. 399. — The road proceeds
farther up the valley via Combe- Br imond, ibe Lac <<» Far oird (6710 ft.), Le
Od (6775 ft.), Leg Blavettes (7720 ft.), etc., to (SVs hrs. from Maljasset) the
Col de Longet (8765 ft.), whence we may descend in 41/4 hrs. to Cartel Delfino
Cp. 400). Near the col is the TiU de$ ToiUiee (10,490 ft. ; fine view), ascended
without difficulty in 1 hr. A route diverging to the right from Le Gti leads
to (I1/3 hr.) the Cabane du Rubren., a shepherd^s hut (7065 ft.), whence the
Orand-Rubren (11,140 ft. ; view) may easily be ascended in 21/3-8 hrs.
From Barcblorrbttb to Larche, 161/2 M. , omnibus in 4 hrs. (fare
2 fr.). To (9 M.) Gleieclles, see above. The Larche road then traverses the
valley of the Ubajfetl4^ to the E., at the foot of the TiUduCugurrt (9680 ft.)
to Bnanpon. EMBRUN. fV, Route 68. 375
and the Sommei du Vatton-Limg ((9970 ft.)^ passing (11 H.) Mevronnet (&945 ft. ;
Hotel Jean) and (15 M.) Certamussat. — I6V2H. Larohe (5568 ft.; Hdtel de
la Paix). Aboui SVs M. farther on we eross the Col de Larehe (6563 ft.), on
the frontier, also called Col de V Argentihre^ from Argeniera^ the first Ital-
ian village, 31/2 M. farther on. The col is celebrated for the passage of a
French army in 1515, relatively a greater military feat than the passage
of the St. Bernard in 1800. — To the N.E. rises the Punia delta Signora
(6890 ft.), behind which is the Col de Rubureni (8145 ft.), by which we may
return to the valley of the TJbayette.
Beyond Prunieres the line crosses two viaducts and follows the
right bank of the Durance. — i(yi M. Savines (2210 ft.; H8tel
Tavan), a considerable place on the left bank, lies at the foot of the
Orand-Morgon (7630 ft.; ascent, 6hrs.; fine view). Farther on,
to the right, is the Pic de Martin-Jean (6185 ft,). We cross a torrent
and thread two tunnels.
109 M. Embrun (2855 ft. ; Hdt. Thouard; H6t, de la Poste; Hot,
de France)^ a town of 3430 inhab., on a rock overlooking the right
bank of the Durance, at the foot of Mont St. Ouillaume (8620 ft. ;
ascended in 5V2-6 hrs.). It is the Ebrodtmum of the Romans, which
Hadrian constituted the capital of the Maritime Alps, and an an-
cient archiepiscopal see. The principal edifice is the old Cathedral
(12th cent.) , with a fine Romanesque tower (restored), a W. front
of the 13th cent. , and a curious N. portal with a porch of pink
marble columns, resting on lions and seated men. In the interior is
an interesting 16th cent, organ-case. In the sacristy are a Virgin,
presented by Louis XL, and some fine old ornaments.
Fbom Embruv to GovDAnraE-GHATBLARD, 271/2 M., a recently finished
road runs vi& the Va««y of the Crivoux^ then under the (71/2 M.) Col du
Parpaillon (9105 ft.) by means of a tunnel (500 yds. long), and down the
Valley of the Parpaillon. — 271/2 M. Condamine-Chdtelard^ see p. 374.
116 M. St. Clement. We cross the Durance at the confluence of
the Guil, and then a branch of this river, in view of Mont-Dauphin,
situated on the right. To the left is the Pointe de Fouran (8690 ft.).
119 M. Mont- Dauphin -GhulUstre (2935 ft.; Hot. de la Qare).
Mont-Dauphin is a fortified town situated on a hill at the junction
of the Durance and Guil valleys. Its population is only about 330,
exclusive of the garrison. The fortifications were erected by Vauban
in 1693. — To Ouillestre and the ValUt du Ouil, see R. 60.
The valley of the Durance again contracts. — 121 M. St. Cr^pin-
— 124 M. La Roche- de-Rame (H6t. Reymond; des Voyageurs).
About V4 hr. to the W. is PaUon^ in the picturesque VcMey of Freiui-
nikres^ watered by the Biapsse, which flows underground in the gorge of
Couffourent for about 90 yds.
128 M. L'Argentiere-la-Besse'e (H6tel Gerard, at La Bessie-
Basse). The former is so called from its mines of argentiferous lead.
An omnibus (2 fr.) plies hence, in connection with all trains, to (6 M.)
Vallouife (p. 390). The road ascends to the N. W. through a fertile valley
watered by the Opronde. At its entrance, on the right, are the remains
of the Jiur des Vaudois^ a rampart constructed by those persecuted people
to defend the valley. Halfway is the village of Vigneaux. — From (6 M.)
r<fUo«i$e (p. 390) a mail-ear goes on to (9 hrs, farther) Ail^roide (p. 391).
376 IV. Route 68. BRIANQON.
The line now rapidly ascends through a grand *Delile flanked
by sheer rocks, and threads six tunnels. Fine views are obtained
from time to time. - 133 M. Pr tilts.
136 M. Brian^on. — Hotels. *Gravd Hotbl, in the lower part of
the town^ R. from 3, pens. 9-12 fr.^ •TBRHttJrs Hotel, at the station,
which Is in the suburb of Ste. Catherine (3940 ft.), 1 M. from the town,
R. 21/2-5, pens. 6-10 fr. ^ Hotel du Nord, good cuisine; Hotel db la Paix,
in the upper part of the town, R. 21/2, B. s/41 d^j. 21/2, I>- 3 fr.; Bbllevub,
on the Lautaret road. — RaUway Omnibw^ 90 C.-IV4 f'- — DiUgencet to
Bourg-d'Oisans (Grenoble) and ()ulx, see pp. 368, 377.
BriaTi^on (4330 ft.), the Brigantium of the Romans, a town of
7180 inhab., lies above the confluence of the Guisane and Durance;
it is a fortress of the first class, but otherwise of little importance.
The streets, furrowed by runnels of clear water called 'gargouilles',
are narrow and in many places too steep for carriages. But the town
presents from a distance a picturesque appearai^ce and is undoubt-
edly a formidable fortress , completely commanding the important
route between Italy and France via Mont Genevre (p. 377). It has
a triple line of walls, and the surrounding heights are crowned by
ten forts, constructed between 1722 and the present day. The
strongest forts are on the left bank of the Durance and are connected
with the town by the *Font Asfeld, built in 1734, and having a
single arch of 130 ft. span and 180 ft. in height. A fine view is
enjoyed from the bridge and also from the Place de la Paix, on
this side of it. The pyramidal snow-peak at the head of the valley
is the Claherton (p. 377). A good view is also obtained from the
Place du Champ-dt'Mars, outside the fortifications.
One of the best view -points in the neighbourhood is the Croix de
Toulovse (6470 ft.), a summit SiA hrs. to the N. , above the S&Uettes
redoubt. — The Pio de Prorel (8440 ft.), to the W. of the town, affording
a good survey of the Briancon district , is easily climbed in 3V3-4 hrs.,
via Noire- Dame-des-Neiges (7536 ft.), a pilgrim - resort , S/4 hr. below the
summit.
From Brian90n to Abri^s, by the CJol dlzoard and Cbateau-Queyras,
30 M., carriage -road, joining at (33 M.) Chateau- Queyras the road from
Guillestre to Hont-Daupbin (p. 375). We cross the Durance in the direc-
tion of the station, turn to the left, and ascend in windings. (The road
to the i>ight at the bridge leads due S. to the Cerveprette, which it crosses
by the *Pont Bdldy or ae la Mort, and to (IV4 M. from Brianjon) ViUor-
St-Paneraee^ whence a bridle-path leads over the Cot det Ayet (830O ft.),
rejoining the road at Brunissard (see below).] Our road enters the valley
of the Certeyrettey which it ascends as far as (6 M.) Cerviires (inn^ guides,
A. Rey, J. A, Faure-Brac). Thence we proceed to the 8. to (l/a hr.) Le
Laus (6905 ft.), the (1 hr.) Ghaleis d'Jtoard, and the (11 M.) Col d'liMrd or
Jzouard (7835 ft.; refuge-hut). The eol lies between the Arpelin (8625 ft.),
to the left, and the Clot de la Cime (8970 ft.), on ihh right. — 15Vi !■•
Bruniseard (5856 ft.), in the valley of the Rivih-e. Thence we proceed via
(1/4 hr.) La Chalp and (V4 br. more) Arvieux to (32 M.) Chdteau-Quefra*.
Thence to (8 H.) AbriiSy see p. 400.
The ascent of the Pic de Roehebrune, recommended to practised moun-
taineers, is made in about 5 hrs. from Cervieres (see above), with guide
(9 fr.). From (i/g hr.) Le Laus (see above) we ascend to the left to the
(II/2 hr.) Fontaine des Ouleg (7610 ft.) , and thence to the (1 hr.) Col dtt
Porte* (9186 ft.), to the W. of which is the old Refuge Vig%ei (uniiaable).
We are here only I1/2-2 hrs. from the top , but care must be taken in
N^VACHE. IV, Route 58. 377
climbing the loose rocks, passing round a cornice, ascending a chemin^e.,
etc. The Tie de Soohebmne (10,905 ft.) commands a magnificent *View,
extending over nearly the whole of the Alps. A descent may be made to
the S. , through the Vallon des Souliers^ to (51/2 hrs.) Chateau - Q.ueyras
(p. 400); or to the W. , over the Col Perdu (about 8200 ft.), to the lafoard
refuge (p. 376).
From Briav^ok to Oulx (Mont Cenis line) by Mont Genevre, I6I/2 M.,
diligence at 5.30 a. m. (returning from Oulx at 3 p. m.), in 41/4 hrs. ^
fare 6 fr. — We first ascend to the N.E. through the valley of the Dui'ance
to (2 M.) La Vachette. We cross the river, and at (3 M.) Le8 Alberts begin
the ascent in six wide zigzags (short-cut for walkers). Fine views. —
7 M. Hont Oenivre (6100 ft. ; Hovpite and two Inns ; guide, Fel. Rignon),
the Mons Janus of the Romans, is a village on the pass of the same name,
which is one of the best and safest in the Alps , because it is open to
the S. and sheltered from N. winds. This is the route taken by most of
the armies which have crossed the Alps since remote times , though the
present road dates only from 1802, as is recorded on the obelisk at the
frontier about 3/^ M. farther on. — The ascent of the Chaberton (10^295 ft. ;
4 hrs. ; easy), an isolated limestone rock to the N.E., where we are already
on Italian soil, is now forbidden for military reasons.
The route then descends Into the valley of the Doire to (8 M.) Cla-
vihres (Hotel du Club Alpin), with the Italian custom-house. 12 M. Cisanne
(4455 ft.; Croix Blanche) is a market-town on the Doire, in a pretty and
fertile district. Beyond a defile we reach (I6I/2 M.) Oulx (see Baedeker^s
Northern Italy).
From BRiAvpov to Bardohwbche (Modane)^ by the Col de TEchelle,
51/2 hrs. direct or 7 hrs. via N^vache. We may drive as far as the frontier,
within 2 hrs. of Bardonneche. — The road diverges from the Mont Genevre
route at (2 M.) La Vaehette (see above), runs to the 17. to the valley
of the Glairie or Clarie^ passes the hamlets forming Vol - des - Pris ^ and
reaches (8I/2 M.) Plampinet (4910 ft.), a hamlet belonging to Ifevache. —
Ndvache (53o0 ft. ; Auherge Balcety in the Ville- Basse; guides, Barth, Ize,
Claude Boux), the centre of which lies 1/2^'- farther on, consists of
several widely scattered hamlets (comp. p. 399). The road to the Col de
TEchelle begins at Robiim^ 1/2 hr. from Plampinet, but we join it by means
of a footpath to the right after the second bridge beyond Plampinet, thus
saving 1^-8/4 hr. The Col de VEchelle (5815 ft.) is a little valley, through
which runs the frontier- line (custom-houses), 4 hrs. from Brian(on.
In V4 ^^' from the frontier we descend by (I/4 hr.) a kind of staircase
cut in the rocks to the (I/4 hr.) VaUie-Etroite (to Mont Thabor, see p. 315),
and descend it to (V2 !»'•) Mileztt^ to the left of which is (I/2 hr.) Bardon-
.nhche. The station lies farther on , to the right (p. 316) ; Italian time is
51 min. in advance of French time.
59. The Pelvoux Bange and its Environs.
The Pelvoux Range (Massif du Pelvoux)^ so called from Mont Pelvoux
(p. 392), one of its best-known peaks, though not the highest, is bounded
on the N. and N. E. by the valleys of the Romanche and the Guisane (road
to Brian^on); on the K. and S.E. by those of the Durance and its tributary
the Biays.-e; on the S. by those of the Drac de Champoleon, the S^veraisse,
and the Bonne ; and on the W. by those of the Malsanne and the Lignare.
This mountain-mass consists of a main chain comprising the Meife (13,(n0 ft.),
the J^rins (13,462 ft.), and the Pelvoux (12,970 ft.); the smaller cliains of
Olan (11,786 ft.) and the Muzelle (11,350 ft.), to the S.W. of the former;
the chain of BonvoiHn (11,720 ft.), to the S., etc. It is the largest range
in Dauphiny and the most interesting to explore, in spite of the rugged-
ness of its peaks. It is becoming also more and more the rendezvous of
mountaineers, who find abundance of ascents of the first rank.
For the sake of convenience, we have added to the directions for
378 IT. Rmte 69. ALLEMONT. Pelvoux Range
the Pelvoux group those referring to the neighbouring mountains^ such
as Belledonfw^ the Grandet-EoHtses^ the Oolion, the AiguOles eTArves, and
the Qalibier^ situated to the K. of the Bomanehe yalley. .
The principal starting-points for excursions in these mountains are
Bourg-d'OUans (Allemont, Oz; see below) ^ 8L ChrUtophe-en-OitanM ^ and
LaBirarde, in the valley of the Vinion (p 381), Vallouise (p. 390), AHe^roide
(p. 391), La Grave (p. 370), Villard-d'Arhik€ (p. 370), Lt Lautaret (p. 370),
and Le MonHier (p. 371).
The Sotels and Inns are still often very primitive, but they are
steadily improving. The French Alpine Club (Paris, Bue du Bae 30) and
the Soeiete des Touristes du Dauphine (S. T. D. , Grenoble , Avenue
Thiers 4), formed in 1874 and 1875, have contributed greatly to this pro-
gress, and have spent much money in order to facilitate excursions in
the Pelvoux range, by erecting finger-posts and constructing the refuges
and the chalet-hotels referred to below.
Good Guides are to be had, for whose services the S. T. D. has
established a tariff^ generally 6-lD fr. a day for a guide and 5-10 fr. for
a porter, in addition to food or 3 fr. more if they find their own. The
society has divided the walks and ascents into several classes, usually
three, beginning with the easiest, and into bourses extraordin&irefl .
When the traveller does not return to the place of departure, a return-
fee is usually payable to the guides (eomp. the list of tariffs, shown on
demand). When nothing is said to the contrary, it is to be understood
that a guide is necessary or at least useful for the following excursions.
As guides are not numerous, it will often save time and disappointment
if one be engaged beforehand. Provisions! an ice-axe, and a rope are
also nearly always required. Only the chief excursions, of course, can
here be indicated.
Mules may also be had at the principal centres at the rate of 10-
13 ir. per day or 5-8 fr. per half-day, attendant included (consult tariff
of the S. T. D.).
a. Excursions from Bonrg-d'Oisans, Ok, and Allemont.
Bourg-d' Oisam (p. 369) is the starting-point for excursions in
the Pelvoux group for those coming from Grenoble, and the rendez-
vous of those who intend to climh the Grandes-Rousses. Those,
however, who are willing to sacrifice comfort in order to shorten the
routes on this side will not return to Bourg-d'Oisans, hut after their
first excursion will descend to Oz (27!}0ft. ; Martin' i Inn; guides,
xVic. Moliere and Et. Vernet, of Le Bessey), or Allemont (about
2620 ft.; Leydier^s and Perratone*8 Inns, at the foundry; Vial, in
the village; guides, P. Oinet, Franp. and Rf'my Michel). We may
also reach these villages by the route mentioned on p. 369. — From
Allemont to the Sept-Laux, see p. 367.
Various excursions may be made to the Chrandes-Soosses from
Bourg-d' Oisans, or (better) from Oz, on account of the finer view on
that side and its proximity to the (4 his.) Refuge de la Fare (p. 379).
These mountains form an isolated chain to the N. of the valley
of the Romanche. The name Rousses is given to them on account
of their ochreous colour. On both sides of this ridge are glaciers
more than 6 M. long. The principal peaks, named from S. to N., are
the Herpie (9826 ft.), the Pic du Lac Blanc (10,930 ft.), the Pic
Bayle or JHc Sud (11,395 ft.), and the Etmdard or Ptc Nord
(11,395 ft.). — Comp, the Map, p. 378,
and its Envirom. PICS DB BELLEDONNE. IV. Route 59. 379
Fbom BonBe-P*Oi8AM8 tbe road is praetieable for carriages as far as
(4 M.) Hues. We follow the Brian^on road, turn to the left, then, beyond
the first bridge, pass the splendid cascade of the Sare»nes (about 1/4 hr.), and
proceed via (36 min.) La Garde (3960 ft.), (40 min.) Huet (4910 ft. s inns),
the (36 min.) CfuUets de VAlpe, and (36 min.) the plateau of Brandes (6900 ft.),
where there are some old silver-mines and anthracite quarries. Farther on
we pass the (IV4 hr.) Lac Blanc (8360ft.), fed by the glaciers of the Orandes-
Bousses, which overlook it on the £. To the W. a magnificent view is ob-
tained of the groups of Taillefer, Belledonne, etc. — The Herpie (9826 ft. ;
wide panorama), one of the nearest summits of the Grandes-Rousses, is
easily ascended from the lake in II/2 hr. (guide 8 fr.). — To the N. of the
lake are the Petites-Rousses (9230 ft.). The Lac de la Fare (refuge, see below)
is less than 21/3 H. off in a straight line. To make the ascent of the
Etendard, it is advisable to sleep at the Befuge de la Fare or at Oz.
From Oz to the Lac Blanc a footpath (about 4hrs.) ascends to the S.E.,
passing the (21/2 hrs.) Chalets de Poutran (6230 ft.), and winding finally round
some hills where there are two more lakes. — To reach the refuge, on the
other hand, we proceed froiA the village towards theN.E., passing (36 min.)
Le Betsey (3600 ft.), the (40 min.) Plan du Seye (4726 ft.), and the (1 hr.)
Gkalei de VAlpetU (6315 ft.). The Refuge de la Fare (7270 ft.) is about 4 hrs.
from Oz, and I/3 hr. on this side of the Lac de la Fare (8730 ft.), at the
foot of the Grandes-Rousses glacier. — The ascent of the Pic Bayle or Pic
Sud (11,395 ft.), the nearest to the lake , presents no difficulty, and may
be accomplished in 3^/^-4 hrs. from the refuge (guide 16 fr.). We ascend
to the E. to the Col de la Pyramide (11,090 ft.), to the S. of the arete,
which we thenee follow to the K. to the top. For the view, see below.
The *Etflndard or Pic Nord (11,396 ft.) is ascended in about 4 hrs. and
presents no greater difficulty than the Pic Sud. The ascent is made by
the W. arete or (better) via the (3 hrs.) Col de la Cochette (ca. 10,170 ft.)
and the If. face. The panorama from the summit is as .fine as from the
other, the chain of the (Grandes-Rousses being isolated : to the £. and N.E.,
the Aiguilles d^Arves' and the great peaks of Savoy as far as Mont Blanc
to the 8., the Pelvonx ranges to the W., the Belledonne, etc. —The des-
cent may be made by the E. arete and the Col des Quirlies (ca. 9880 ft.),
and thence to the S.E., by the Olacier des Quirlies^ to Le Freney (6-61/2 hrs. •,
p. 369), passing ClavanM (Aubert's Inn), 3 hrs. from the glacier and 41/2 M.
from Le Frenev^ Or to the K.E. to St. Jean-d"* Arves (7 hrs. ; p. 314), by the
Qlader de St. SorUn^ the Refuge Cisar Durand (7318 ft.), and St. SorUn.
To the three Pios de Belledoxme, from AUemont and also from
Oz and Bourg-d'Oisans, sleeping at the Refuge de Belledonne (see
below). These peaks can be climbed also from Revel (p. 364) and
Uriage (p. 357).
The *Croiz de Belledonne (9626 ft.) is a comparatively easy ascent, which
takes 5-51/2 hrs. from AUemont (guide 8 fr.). We proceed to the N.E., via
(I hr.) Mollard and (2 hrs.) the Refuge de Belledonne (7100 ft.), near the Lac
de Belledonne (fine view). Thence we ascend over loose stones and a fairly
easy snow-couloir to (II/2-2 hrs.) the Col de Belledonne^ where we join the
route from Revel and TJriage (p. 357), I/2 hr. from the summit. Magnificent
*View, extending as far as Mont Blanc, but partly interrupted to the N.E.
by the Grand Pic. — The Grand Pio de Belleaonne (9780 ft.j is much more
difficult. The ascent takes 6 hrs. from AUemont (guide, 1 day or II/2 day,
16 or 19 fr.) and is possible only with the help of wire ropes which have
been fixed for the purpose. As far as the (3 hrs.) Refuge de Belledonne.^
see above *, we then leave the route to the little peak on the left in order
to make the circuit of the large one to the N.E. No difficulty occurs
for about 1 hr. \ thereafter we mount a steep slope of hard snow , some
slippery rocks, and a very fatiguing couloir, to the foot of the final peak
(1 hr.). We skirt this peak to the 8. to reach the O/4 hr.) first rope, made
fast to a very steep rock-slope, where we skirt the top of a precipice for
5 minutes. In 1/4 hr. more we reaeh the second rope, which is longer and
fixed ia a ehimn«y, where the passage is still more difficult. Hence It is but
380 IV. Route 59. VlfeNOSC Pelvoux Range
a abort climb to (I/4 br.) the top. Tbe 'Panorama is splendid, especially to
the 8.E. oTcr the PeWouz range and to the £. and K.E. over the peaks of
Savoy and part of the Swiss mountains. — The Pic Central de BeUedonne
(9005 ft.), the ascent of which is equally difficult, is sealed in about It shr.
from the Croix de Belledonne (p. 379).
Tbe Grande Lance d*Allemoat (9330 ft. ; SVs hrs. ; ^ide 16 fr.), to the
W. of this village, presents no serious difficulty. The descent may be
made on the N.W. to the (8»/4 hrs.) Chalet de la Pra (p. 357) or on the
8. to Livet (p. 369) in 41/2 '^w. An ascent of 31/4 hrs. over (f»/4 hr.) some
pastures and (I1/2 hr.) a small glacier brings us to the Col de la Porlette,
from which the summit is reached in 3 hrs. more, by couloirs on the W.
and N. sides. The panorama is glorious and to the S. is better than from
the Belledonne. — The descent to Livet is made by the (18/4 hr.) Col de la
Portette and then at first direct to the old silver-mines of (8/4 hr.) Cha-
lanches and afterwards to the (I1/4 hr.) Cawade du Bdton. Allemont may
also be reached from the old mines.
To the Taille/er^ see p. 368.
To St. Chbistophb akd La Bebabde, 4*/2hrs. and TVfhrs. on foot
from Bourg-d'Oisaiis by the valley of the Veneon , which falls into
the Romanche Va ^^- higher up, on the left side. There is a car-
riage-road on the right bank, diverging from the La Grave road at
(3 M .) Pont St, OuiUerme (p. 369) and ending at St. Ghristophe.
A diligence plies every morning in summer from Bourg-d'Oisans to
Si. Chrittophe in 4 hrs. (fare 5fr.), in connection with the tramway and
diligences from Brian^on. — Mule from St. Christophe to La Birarde^ 10 fr.
On the left bank is a bridle-path, not always practicable, which saves
about 3/^ hr. It rejoins the road at Les Ougiers (see below).
The *Yalle7 of the Y6n6on, one of the most heautiful among the
Alps of Dauphiny, attains a considerable height among the Pelvoux
mountains and affords very fine view-points, while from its entrance
we have a beautiful retrospect of the Belledonne (p. 379).
Opposite us, beyond the bridge, rises the Soohail (10,073 ft.), with the
glacier of Villard-Notre-Dame (5090 ft. \ Paquet's Inn) , a village on the lefl
bank, 23/4 hrs. from Bourg-d'Oisans. The ascent may be made thence in
5 hrs. (guide 12 fr.), by the (2 hr.) Loson But^ the (8/4 hr.) W. tongue of
the glacier, and the (2V4 hrs.) Col du Rochail (10,005 ft.).
6 M. Les Ougiers, a hamlet with a bridge over the V^n^on.
About 1/2 M. hence is Let Oanchoirs (2775 ft.) , a hamlet on the ri^ht
bank, on a brook which descends from the Lac de LauTitel or Loviul
(5900 ft.) , a lovely lake U/^ hr. to the S., 1 H. long and 500 yds. wide.
Its waters escape by three underground streams, which rise to the surface
about 125 yds. lower down. A path skirts its E. bank, and on the K.E-
side is a Refuge-Chalei. There is a raft which may be used for crossing
(8/4 hr.) when it is within reach. On the other side is the (S^/i hrs.)
Briche de Lauvitel or de Valtenestre (8642 ft.), between tbe Clapier du Pepron
(10,407 ft.) and the Siynal de Lauvitel (9535 ft.). This pass, which leads to
(3 hrs.) Valsenestre (p. 363), is comparatively easy.
Farther on, to the right, appear the Brlche du Vallon or AiguiUf
de Venose (9230 ft,), between the valley of the Lac de Lauviti^l
(see above) and that of the Plsse. Y^nosc (3445 ft. ; Martinis Inn :
guide, L. J. Roehette)^ a charmingly situated village, about Vt ^'
to the left, owes a certain prosperity to the plants gathered in
the neighbouring mountains. Opposite rises the Roche de la Mu-
zelle ((pp. 381, 383).
Fbom V^mosc to Lb Frbvbt, 31/9 hrs., an easy expedition, which may
be made on mules. Guide unnecessary. The path leads over the (U/i hr.)
and iu Environs, St. OHRtSTOPHfi. tV. Route S9, S81
Chalets de VAlpe (4907 ft.) and the (1 hr.) Col de I'AIpe (&l46fk.).to (S/4 hr.)
Mont-de-Lans (p. 369). — X« Frenep^ 1/2 hr. farther on, see p. 369.
8 M. Bourg - d' Aitid (2920 ft. ; Giraud's Inn), a hamlet belong-
ing to Venose.
The Vallon de la Pme^ containing (8 hrs.) the little Lae de la Muzelle^
ascends to the S. towards the (IS/4 hr.) Ool de la Knselle (8206 ft.) , below
which is a small glacier. The col lies between the Glapier du Peyron (p. 380)
and the Roche de la Muzelle (p. 383). Fine view to the N. Descent to
(2 hrs.) VdUenestre (43% ft. -, p. 363).
The carriage - road crosses the V^n^ou at Bourg>d'Arud and
ascends rapidly to the Clapier de St. Christophef a chaos of rocks
fallen from the SoreiUer (7650 ft) , to the S. In about Vi br- the
Plan du Lac is reached^ an ancient lake- bed, the barren right
bank of which is skirted by the road. Facing us is the fine Chaine des
Fet(mle$ (p. 383). Near the (30-35 min.) end of the Plan is the
beautiful Fall of the Enchdtra, descending on the right, between
the Soreiller and the Aiguille de VEnchdtra (8445 ft). — The road
now ascends a steep slope, with a yiew, to the right, of the Tete
de Lauranoure (p. 383), the Bee du Canard (p. 383), and the
Aiguille dea Arias (p. 383). At the (^2 !*'•) top, St. Christophe comes
in sight — About Vt M. farther on the *Pont du Diahle crosses
the stream of that name, ^/j M. from -*
13 M. St Ohristophe (4820ft; Antoine Turc's Inn; post-offlce),
a village at the foot of the Aiguille du Plat (p. 383). It is of no
importance except as a starting-point for excursions (see p. 382).
As we proceed towards La B^arde we still have in front the
Chaine des Fetoules (p. 383), round which the Y^n^on winds flrom •
the left Beyond (V» hr.) Le Clot appear, on the right, the beauti-
ful Waterfall and Qlacier de la Mariande, On the left is Champ'
Ebran. Fine retrospective view. About Va b^* from Le Clot a
guide-post indicates the route (to the right) to La Lavey (see p. 381) ;
pleasing view of its valley , with a fine waterfall, several glaciers,
and the Aiguille d'Olan (p. 384). About '/4 lir. beyond (V4 hr.)
Ghamphorent we are again on the level of the stream , with a fine
retrospective view of the Roche de la Muzelle (p. 383). Towards the
head of the valley is the grand chain of the J^crins (p. 386) , of which
the only peak visible is Pie Lory, the highest but one. To the right
of it is the Pic Coolidge (p. 387). In 10 min. more we reach Les
Stages (5230 ft) , beyond which we keep to the left, and in ^j^ hr.
(3 hrs. from St Christophe) arrive at —
La BArarde (5700 ft) , the last hamlet The principal house is
the ^ Hotel de la Soci^t^ des TouHstes du Dauphine, which is well
equipped and managed (50 beds; R. 3, B. IV4, d^j. 2Vt, D. SVa fr.)-
Lodging may also be obtained at the Chalet Rodier. La B^rarde is
an excellent starting-point for excursions in the Pelvoux mountains
and the Meije chain (see p. 384).
382 IV. Route 59, ST. OHRISTOPHE. Fdvoux Mange
b. Ezenrsio&t from St. Cliristophe and La B6rarde.
St. Christophe and La Berarde^ being fairly close together (see
p. 381), have a certain number of excursions in common, especially
those via the Refuge de la Lavey (5840 ft), 3 and 372 ^'s* distant, in
the valley of that name, which is on the right as we go from St.
Ohristophe to La B^rarde.
Onidea and Fortera. * Pierre Oatpard and his son *Maximiny Casimir
Qaspardy *Christophe and Pierre Roderon; *Chriatophe Tare; *Jo$. Turc^
nicknamed 'Z(yua»e\ hnii Alex, Ture^ at St. Ghristophe ; *Jtan-Bapt.^ Hippo-
lyte^ and Pierre Rodier^ at La Bdrarde^ Claude and Jo». JBtienne Turc at Lta
Etages.
Tariff. Class I (see p. 378), Va day, guide 4, porter 4fr. ; 1 day, 8,
10, 12, and (porter) 8 fr. — II. 1 day, 15 and 10 fr. ; ll/a day, 23 and 15 fr. 5
2 days, 30 and 20 fr. — III. 1 day, 22 and 12 fr.; H/a day, 28 and 18 fr. ;
2 days, 32 and 22 fr. — IV. H/a day, 40 and 25 fr. ; 2 days, 50 and 30 fr. -
For the il^crins, descending on the same side, 60 and 35 fr. ; descending on
the other side, 80 and 45 fr. — For the Meije (Pie Central) 40 and 25 fr. ;
for the Pie Occidental by the S. face 80 and 45 fr., by the aretrea and the
Pic Central 130 and 70 fr. — For the i^crins via the ice-wall of the Glacier
Noir, 150 and 100 fr. Less if the tourist does not go as far as the sum-
mit. — Return-fees (p. 378) 3-10 fr.; the tariff should be asked for.
I. F&OM St. Ghaistophe.
In addition to that of La Lavey (see above) there are two other club-
huts in the vicinity of St. Christophe for walks and ascents, vit. the
* Refuge dti iac JVbir (9252 ft.), 31/2 -4 hrs. to the K., and the Refuge de la
Selle (8810 ft.), 31/2-4 hrs. to the K.E. (see below).
*To THE Glacieb de Mont-dE'Lans and the Col de la Lauzs
VIA THE Lag Noib, returning by the valley of the Selle, about 12 hrs. ;
tariff II. The expedition may be divided between two days by
sleeping at one of the refuges, that of the Lac Noir being preferable.
The path, halfway up the hill-slopes, to the N.W. of St. Christophe,
leads past Le Fuys, and then turns to the N. and N.E. , passing to
the N. E. of the Tete du Towra (9573 ft. ; a/4lir. ft-om the club-hut;
easy). Hence it descends to the (8^/4 hrs.) little Lae Nair (9185 ft.),
10 min. above which is the Refuge of the same name (9252 ft.).
Passing below the Jandri (10,800 ft. ; IV2 hr.; easy), we soon reach
the vast *01aeier de Mont-de-Lans, the largest in Dauphiny, mea-
suring about 5 M. in length and 2M. in width. We cross it without
difficulty, and in 3 hrs. reach the *0ol de la Lanie (11,625 ft), a
slight depression to the W. of the Pic de la Orave (12,060 ft.; IVg-
2 hrs. from the col ; difficult). This pass , one of the most beauti-
ful in the Pelvoux Mts., commands an extensive panorama, extend-
ing as far as Mont Blanc and Mte. Rosa. The descent, through a
steep and fatiguing couloir to the Refuse de la SeUe (8810 ft.),
takes 2 hrs. (ascent 4 hrs.). This refuge is situated on the margin
of the Glacier de la Selle, beyond which rises the Plaret (p. 385).
Another hour of rapid descent leads to th^ bottom of the Vallon de
la Selle. A mule-track skirts the Ruisseau du Diable, between the
Jandri and the T6te du Toura, on the right, and the Aiguille du
Plat, 01? the left (see p. 383), to (2 hrs.) St. Christophe.
and its Enviroru. ST. GHRISTOPHE. IV. Route 59, 383
To tbe*AiffiiiUe iuPlat (11,818 ft.)t Sl/^-? hrs., not dimcult for experts; .
tariff III. We ascend to the N. £. over steep slopes to the (21/2-^ brs.)
Olader du Plat, cross the elaeier, and reach the (iVs-^ ^'s) ^^' <'^ ^^^*
to the left of the TiU du Graou (p. 384). Following the S. W. arete, we
attain the summit in IVa br. more. The panorama is one of the most
interesting and complete of the Dauphiny Alps.
Boohe de la Kuxelle (11,350 ft.), about 81/2 brs., a difficult ascent , and
eren dangerous when the rocks are covered with boar -frost; tariff III.
We pass through the hamlet of (2V2 brs.) L^Enckdtra or Lanehdtra (4655 ft. ;
p. 381), which is a better starting-point, as it shortens the walk, and ascend
the rayine of the Pitte, as far as the (81/4 brs.) Glacier du Vallon (7060 ft.).
Tfaenee we mount over rocks and the glacier, to the W., to the (IV2 br.)
foot of the Roche, aseend through couloirs to the N^. arete, and follow
the latter to the (1 hr.) summit. The Roche , itself a remarkable moun-
tain, commands one of the most beautiful *Panoramas of the Oisans on
account of its sentinel-like position to the W. of the Serins and Meije.
Tite de Lanraaoure (10,963 ft.), 41/2 hrs., laborious ; tariff III. Crossing
the V^n^on to the S., we pass on the other side to the (.1 hr.) chalets of
the Alpe du Pin (6945 ft.), and ascend direct across pastures to the W. branch
of the (I3/4 hr.) Glacier du Pierroux (9430 ft.), which is crossed without diffi-
culty. Thence the ascent of the peak takes about 2 hrs. There is a wide
and magnificent panorama.
Beo du Canard (10,730 ft.), 71/2-8 hrs. from St. Christophe, or 41/2 hrs.
from La Lavey, rather difficult; tarifi'III. This peak is to the W. of the
refuge. There is a narrow ridge to be crossed between two precipices,
then a couloir near the top. The main chain is seen in detail.
AigniUe dea Aria* (11,159 ft.; 71/2-8 hrs.; tariff IV), difficult. From
the (1 hr.) Alpt du Pin (see above) we turn to the S. £. into the (1 hr.) Combe
de la Mariande and follow the right bank of the stream to the Glacier
de la Mariandey to the (2 hrs.) upper snow-fields of which we ascend.
Thence we proceed by a snow-couloir to the S.£. to the (I1/4 br.) Col des
Arias (ca. 10,170 ft.), to the W. of the Aiguille. We now descend a little
to the Glacier du Grand -Vallon y and turn to the N.E. to scale the other
slope of the peak. We cross (Vs br.) a bergschrund, climb some steep
rocks, and attain the (3/4 hr.) arete on the S.W., nearly 1 hr. below the
summit. The view is better than that from the Bee du Canard, which
is interrupted on the S.W. by, the Aiguille des Arias. — From the top of
the Glacier de la Mariande we may proceed to the S:W. to the (8/4 hr.)
Ool de la Mariande (ea. 10,170 ft.), whence we descend in 4r4i/3 hrs. to Le
Disert-en- Valjomlfre^ (p. 863), in the valley of the Bonne.
T«te de rOurs (9990 ft.), about 51/2 hrs., easy and safe ; tariff II. .We as-
cend the Vallep 0/ the Lavey for some distance, turn to the left at a ravine,
and mount over rocks and the Ours Glacier to the (41/2 hrs.) Col de VOurs
(9843 ft.), about 1/2 hr. below the summit, from which there is a good
view. — The Fointe Lemercier (10,585 ft.), to the 8. of the Col de TOurs,
may be ascended from the col in 20 minutes. — The Fointe Jeanne
(10,647 ft.) is aseended in 1/2 hr. from the Col du Crouzet (10,171 ft.),
situated to the 8., and reached by the Lavey valley and the FHoules Glacier
(about 5 hrs. from St. Christophe). We may descend to the £. by the
(2 hrs.) VeUlon des Stages, and thence gain (I-II/2 hr.) Les Etages (p. 881 ;
to the K.) and La Birarde (p. 381).
The *T«te dea F^toulea (11,369 ft. ; 5-51/4 hrs. from the Refuge of La
Lavey) is easy, except at one point on the arete; tariff III. We ascend
to the B. to the (Qi/a hrs.) Glacier des Fitoules , which has crevasses in
its lower part; then to the left, by the rocks and the moraines of the
right bank, and up hard snow, to the (IV2 br.) Col des FHoules (10,545 ft.),
to the N. of the (Ihr.) summit, which is reached by the arete above the
Vallon Glacier. Fine 'Panorama.
The TMe de VttMt (11,690ft.), a little farther to the 8. (difficult;
tariff III), is ascended from La Lavey in 5-51/2 hrs., by the (21/4 brs.) Glacier
and the (II/2 hr.) Col de la Lavey (10,926 ft.). — The Aiguille d'Olan (11,100 ft.),
to the right at the end of the valley , is difficult , especially from this
384 IV. Route 59. LA Bl^RABDE. Pelvoux Mange
side ; Ukriff IV. It is ascended in 5 hro. from La L»yey , by the (3 hrs.")
Olaeier (Us StUeties^ some steep rocks^ and a couloir. Restricted view. —
Tbe Pio d'Olan (N. summit, 11,735 fl.), more to the S., is very difftaiU
(guide from St. Christophe 65 £r., porter 35 fr.). The ascent requires
about 71/2 hrs. from La Lavey, over the (4 brs.) Col d' Olan (%7i8 ft .\ and
about the same time (a preferable route if there is snow) from La Cha-
pelle-en-Valgaudemar (p. 364). — To the S.W. is tbe Pic de Tnrbat
(9940 ft.)t easily ascended in 5-&L/a hrs. from La Chapelle. between these
two peaks is the Col d4 Turbai (8835 ft.), 3 hrs. from U Desert -en-
Yaljouffrey (p. 363).
To La Ghapbllb-bm-Yaloaudbmar ovbr thb Col dbs Sbllbttbs, 12-
131/2 hrs., difficult, especi«lly when the crevasses of the glaciers are not
bridged by snow; tariff III. We ascend via La Laveff and the Glacier det
Sellettes (see above) to the (8-8I/3 hrs.) Ooldea SellettM (10,500 ft.), between
the Pic d*01an and the Oime du Vallon (11,314 ft.). There is another
small glacier on the other side. — La Chapelle-en- Valgaudemar^ see p. 364.
To h^ Clot-bk-Vai.oaudbmar ovbr thb Col db la MuAVDBf lO-lC^/a hrs.,
fairly easy, when there is snow; tariff II. In 7-71/9 hrs., vi& La Lavey and
the Glacier de la Muande^ we reach the Col de la Koande (10.035 ft.), to the
S.E. of the head of the glacier. Descent to the S.£. to (3 hrs.) Le Ck>(-
en-Valgaudemar (p. 364).
For other expeditions from St. Christophe (Meije, etc.), see those from
La Berarde and La Grave, p. 393.
II. From La B^ba&db.
There are two available refuges in the neighbourhood of La Berarde,
MS. the Refuge du Carrelet (6790 ft.), II/2 hr. to the S.E., in the valley of the
VfSn^on, and the Refuge du Chdielleret (IdiiO ft.), 3 hrs. to the N. in tbe
lonely Btan^ons valley. The Refuge de la Bonne-Pierre (8430 ft.), 2i/j hra.
to the E., to the N. of the glacier of that name, has been abandoned
on account of the damp. — Guides and Tarifs^ ^®^^' ^^- ~~ Excursions
common to La Bdrarde and St. Christophe, see p. 3^.
*T6te de la Maye (8275 ft)^ about 272 hrs., &" o&sy expedition
for which a guide is unnecessary; tariff I. We cross the fitan^oiis
stream below the hamlet, and turning to the right, at a guide-
post, ascend the valley to (20min.) a point where the path forks.
We ascend the E. slope of the mountain, to the left) by a zigzag
path, keeping towards the S.W., then to the N. Splendid •View of
the Metje, with its .jagged crest; then, from left to right, the Qrande-
Ruine, the Tete de Charriere, and the Roche d'Alvau ; the Serins,
farther back ; and the Ailefroide , still farther. — From the Maye
to the Rouget, see below.
Besides the Tete de la Maye travellers who do not care to make
great ascents should at least visit the *G lacier de la Pilatte (p. 388; ta-
riff I) as far as the higher branches (V4'2 l^rs. from the Refuge du Car-
relet). The torrents are often difficult to cross in the evening. — The
Glacier du Chardon also repays a visit. It lies IVa-^lu'S. from La Berarde,
at the end of the little valley branching to the right at the foot of tbe
Tete de Chf^ret (p. 388).
T4t« du Oraou (10,407 ft.), about 5 hrs., comparatively easy; tariff III
We follow the road to St. Christophe to beyond (1 hr.) Les stages^ aaeend
to the N. by the valley of the Ruisseau d'Bnhaut (^Damou*), and thence
to the W. over the (3 hrs.) Col du Graou (ca. 9840 ft.), to the S. of which risei
the THe de Marsare (10,330 ft. ; ascended in Vi hr. from the col). The
view itom the high ground to the K. of the col is also attractive. We
may descend from the col in 3 hri. to St. Christophe (p. 383).
T««s du Xonf«t (11,334 ft.), 7 hrs^ fatiguing and not easy ; UriA' IV.
The ascent is made via the (3 hra.) THe de la Move (see above), the (1 hr.)
and i^$ EwHrons, LA BERARDE. IV. R<mte 59. 385
Th0 de VAure (8875 ft.), and the Roche Blanche (8340 ft.), which are, as it
were, bnttresBes of the mountain. — Farther along this same crest rises
the Pic G«ny (11,274 ft. ; fine •View).
•Plaret (11,713 ft.), 5Va hrs., not rery difficult; tariflf III. The ascent is
made ria the right bank of the Vallon des manaont and the (3 hrs.) Glacier
dm Floret^ bearing to the left. Another route (Va hr. longer) leads vii
Les Stages (p. 381), the Combe dl'Amont , a small glacier, and a couloir on
the N.W. Splendid •View,
T«to de la OandoUtoa (11,644 ft.), to the N.E. of the Piaret, 8-9 hrs. This
excursion also presents no serious difficulty, except at the rocks near the
top; tariff III. The route is the same as that just described as far as the
Olader du Piaret^ from which we proceed to the K. Another ascent leads
in 4 hrs. from Le Chdtelleret^ via the (li/s hr.) Olacier de la OandoUire and
the arete bounding it on the S. — This little chain is traversed farther
to the N. by the CoU de la Gandolihre (10,245 ft.), de la Selle (10,170 ft.),
and du Beplat (11,105 ft.), all leading in less than 4 hrs. to the Refuge
de la Selle. The THes du Replat (11,360 and 11,330 ft.) are each ascended
in Va ^i"' from the Col du Beplat.
B&teau (12,817 ft.), 7-71/3 hrs., difficult ; tariff IV. We proceed past (2 hrs.)
Le Chdielleret to the (V4 l^r.) foot of the mountain, whence, turning to the
left, we make for the (23/4 hrs.) S. arete. In U/s hr. more we join the £ .
arete and attain the summit 1/2 hr. later. The last snow-cornice is rather
dangerous. The view is very extensive. The descent by the E. arete is
very difficult and hazardous. By this side La Grave is reached in about
6 hrs., but it is better to ascend from there (about 8 hrs.).
Oraade-Bnuw (12,317 ft.), vi& the Col de la Caue-DiterU in 8-9 hrs.
(tariff in), see pp. 388, 394.
To THfi Ctband Pio de la Msue, 8-10 hrs. from Le Chdielleret
(p. 384), a very difficult and dangerous ascent. Special tariff (see
p. 382). In about 1 br. horn the refuge we reach the Olacier de$
^tanpons, the ascent of which is easy ; ^/^ hr. thence is the Pro*-
montoire, a projecting rock (ca. 10,170 ft. ; shelter-hut, two beds),
and V4 ^'' farther on is the Carrefour, at the foot of the Grand Cou-
loir , where the real ascent begins. A difficult climb of IVt*^ hrs.
brings us to the Pj^ffomidis Duhamel (11,745 ft.), '/4 ^'* more to a
small terrace known as Coitelnau^s Camp, and 2 hrs. more, up the
very difficult MuraiUe Castelnau, to the Olacier Carrd (12,295 ft.)^
GVt hrs. from the refuge. The glacier is crossed, usually without
difficulty, to the (1 hr.) Br^ehe du Olacier Carr/. The final climb
of 2V2 hrs. over rocks presents no serious difficulty, except the
last lOmin. to the Chapeau du Capucin or ChevaZ Rouge, especially
if there Is snow. The nCeije ( 13,080 ft.), or Meidje, the third
sammit of the PeWoux group, ranking after the Serins and the
Pic Lory, has three peaks : the Pic Oriental (12,830 ft.), black on the
B^rarde side but of a dazzling whiteness towards La Grave; the Pie
Central (13,025 ft), slender, and graceful , ^so fragile in appearance
compared with the other peaks that it looks as though the first gust
of wind would carry it away, and leaning toVards the Glacier des
^l^tan^ons in a way that makes one both wonder and shudder' (Ooo*
lidge); and the Pic Occidental, or Orand Pic (13,080 ft.), joined to
the preceding by a very difficult and dangerous serrated ridge (see
p. 386). The Meije has been compared to the famous Matterhorn,
and it remained uneonquered 12 years longer. M. Boileau de Oastel-
Baedeker. Southern France. 4th Edit. 25
386 IV, Route 69. LA B^BiURDE. P^voux Rcunge
nau was the first who reached the top, in 1877, by the S. side, with
Pierre and Maximin Gaspard as guides. — The extensive and splen-
did panorama is similar to that from the Ecrins (see below). — The
descent on the same side (7 hrs.) is as difficult as the ascent, and
requires, as in most excursions of this kind, even more care, ifpos-
^sible. The descent to La Grave (8 hrs.), on the £. side, is a little
easier. It leads yi& a difficult couloir, the (1^4 br.) Breche Zsigrmm-
dy, the (1 Va br.) Pic Central^ and the (1 br.) Rocker de VAigle (p. 395).
Pav« (12,570 ft.), to the E. of the Pie Oriental of the Heije, about
6 hrs. from LeOhdUUerei^ difficult-, tariff III. Aa far as the (3»/4 hrs.) Col
du Pavi^ sec p. 387. Thence we ascend by a snow slope towards the W.
(8/4 br.), a chimney on the right, and the (li/a hr.) S. arete. The view
is limited on the E. by the Pic Gaspard (p. wi) and on the K. hy the
Meije, but the Pare is the nearest height on the S. side of the latter
mountain and therefore the best Tiew-point for it.
T«te de Oharri«re (11,293 ft.), 41/2 hrs. The only part of the ascent which
is difficult is from the Breche to the top \ tariff III. From La B^rarde we skirt
the left bank of the ^tan^ons brook to the (IV2 br.) Vallon de la Bonne-Pierre,
climb for some time over the moraine to the K.E. and N. to the (iV2 br.)
glacier, and over the latter (I/4 hr.) to (1 hr.) the Briche de Ohnrrih-e
(lOJOO ft.). Tlienee it takes nearly 1 hr. to climb the peak, which rises to
the left. The descent may be made from the Breche to the lower Olacier de
la Plate-des-Agneaux and the Ohalet-HMel deVAlpe (about 4 hrs. \ p. 394). —
The Boohe d'AWan (11,905 ft.) and the Boehe Fsorio (13,190 ft.), to the N.
and N.E. of the Glacier de la Bonne-Pierre, are two diHIcult and more or
less dangerous peaks, ascended from Le ChatelLeret in 8 and 5 hrs.
*To THB EcRiNS, 8-9 hrs. from the Refuge du Carrelet (p. 384),
an excursion of the first rank, without serious difficulties for those
who are sure-footed and do not suffer from giddiness. Speoia.1 tariff
(seep. 382). We ascend at first to the £. to the (IVt br.) Qlaeierdv
Vallon de la Pilatte^ and thence to the (2 hrs.) Col det Avalanckes
(11,520 ft.), from which there is a grand view of the Serins. After
that the climb begins, by couloirs and the Rocker- Blanc, before com-
ing to which there is a difficult passage, mwe than 300 ft. above
the Glacier Noir, now made safer by a wire cable (i hr.). The ar^te is
next reached and crossed, and we enter on the (1 Vi br.) small Glacier
dee itcrint, where we pass above a formidable abyss and across •
difficult barrier of rocks. We regain the ardte between the Pic Lory
(see below) and the summit of the &rins, about 2 hrs. from the foot
of the glacier. *Les ^oriiui or the Poif^e dee Acrina (13,462 ft.) is the
highest summit of the Pelvoux group and of all Dauphiny, as well
as its finest point of vierw. Around it are grouped 42 glaciers, 12 val-
leys, and more than 130 peaks of which the average height exceeds
10,000 ft. The intervals between these peaks permit a distant view
which extends as far as the mountains of the Bernese OberUnd, and
those of Savoy , the Gran Paradiso, the Matterhorn, Monte Rosa,
Monte Yiso , the Maritime Alps , the G^vennes , the mountains of
Auvergne, and the Jura. — In descending by the N. side (see p. 393),
we pass to the £. of the Pic Lory (13,396 ft), the central summit
and to the E. of the Ddme de Neige de» ^erin$ or Pic de la B^rarde
(13,068 ft), the W. summit to reach the (3V4hrs.) Col de$ EcHns
and it$ Environs, LA BJ^RARDE. IV, Route 69. 387
(p. 392) , from which the descent nay be made on the W. to the
(2 hr.) Refuge de la Bonne-Pierre (abandoned , see p. 384) or to
Vallouise (p. 390).
Fifire (11,910 ft.)^ the nearest summit to the 6. of the Serins, called
also the Poinie de Balmt-Rotute^ about 51/q hrs.., a toilsome ascent, from Le
Carrelet; tariff III. We proceed to the (3 hrs.) Col det Aealanchet (p. 386),
then over loose rocks to the S. slope of the W. arete (I/2 hr.), which de-
scends towards the Yallon glacier; then by this ridge direct to the (2 hrs.),
summit, from which there is a magniAcent riew, especially of the S.
side of the Ecrins and the incomparable cirque of the Glacier Nmr.
Pio OooUdge (12,323 ft.), 5 hrs. from Le Carrelet, difdcult-, tariff III. We
climb a spur of the peak between the basin of the Yallon, on the 17.,
and the basin of La Temple, on the S., skirting the former for IV4 br., and
^ then proceed to the right in the direction of the Col de la Temple, as far
'as the point where the glacier divides CReplat de la Temple*; 11/2 br.).
We then bear to the left to (IV4 hr.) the arete which joins the ticrins to
the Ailefroide , and gain the summit in V4 br. more. The detailed view
of the Ecrins across the intervening abyss is very Ane, and that of the
whole range is one of the best obtainable. There are precipices on all
sides except the S.E.
To Yillard-d'Artae or to La Grave. — The cols that are most
practicable from the La B^rarde side are here described ; for the
others, see pp. 394, 395. Expeditions by the Refuge du Chdtelleret
(p. 384) and the Chalet- Hotel de VAlpe take lV8-2hrs. less if the
start is made from the former or the finish at the latter. About Vs ^^•
more is required to reach La Grave ftom the GhaletF-Hdtei de l*Alpe
instead of stopping at Villard - d'Arene. — Over the Brftehe de la
Keije (10,827 ft.), 8-9 hrs. from the Refuge du Chdtelleret, a diffi-
cult but grand expedition , shorter and easier from this side than
Irom La Grave (p. 395), which lies much lower than the refuge.
Tariff II. The pass is gained vi& the Qlader dea ttan^ons (p. 385)
and finally over steep rocks in 3 Vt ^^^^ ; descent to La Grave (comp.
p. 395) in4*/2-5 hrs. — Ovbb thb Col dc Pav^, 10-11 hrs. ; tariff II.
This is one of the most interesting but not now one of the easiest
passes iu thePelvoux group. From Le Chdtelleret yr^ climb to theN.,
over the Qlaeier des ^tan^ons, to the foot of the formidable wall of the
Meije ; then to the right, over a rather steep and crevassed glacier, to
the (4V4l^i^s. from the refuge) Col daFav6 or de Castelnau (11,467 ft),
a gap to the S. of the Pav^ (p. 386). Descent by a snow-couloir to
the (1 Va ^^•) Olacier du Clot-det- Cavalea and to the (1 hr.) Chalet'
Hotel de VAlpe, 2 hrs. from FtWard-d'Aren« and 2V2 hrs. from
La Grave (p. 394). -^ Similar passes are the Col det Aigles (ca.
10,500 ft.) and the Col des Chamois (10,335 ft.), to the S. of the Col
du Pav^ (each 10-11 hrs. ; tariff II) ; descent as abpve to the Glacier
du Clot-det-Cavales and the Chalet^ Hotel deVAlpe{j^. 394).
OvEB THB Col du Clot- des -CA.vjUiBS, 9Vt-10 hrs., easy;
tariff II. From Le Chdtelleret we ascend due E., by a path among
debris, rocks, and moraines, and up a snow > couloir to the (3 hrs.)
Col dn Clot-det-Cavales (10,263 ft.), and descend by the Glacier du
Clot-dei'Cavales, on theE., to the (2V4hrs.) Chalet- Hdtel de VAlpe,
25*
388 IV. Rtmte 59. LA B^RARDE. Pelvoux Range
Oteb the Col de la Orande-Rtjike, lO-lOVa lira., not difficult;
tariff II. We follow the Vallon dea ^tcmpons as far as the (iVf hr.)
torrent which descends from the Grande-Ruine (p. 394), ascend to
the N.E. to the (2 hrs.) moraine on the right of the glacier to the
N.W. of the Grande-Ruine, and thence over rocks to the (2 hrs.)
Col de la Grande-Buine (10,300 ft.). Descent to the (1 hr.) Olacier
du Clot ' des ' Cavales and to the (1 hr.) Chaiet'Hdtel de V Alpe.
— A more difficult passage leads over the Br6ehe Oiraad-L^iin
(11,805 ft.), immf'diately to the N.E. of the Grande-Ruine; descent
by the (V4 hr.) Olacier de la Plate-det-Agneaux to the (2V4hrs.)
Chalet'Hdtel de I'Alpe.
OvEB THE GoLDE LA Casse-D^sebte, 11 Vz'l^ hrs., fairly easy;
tariff II. The route Is the same as for the two preceding passes as
far as the (3V2 hrs.) top of the moraine, and then by the glacier (cre-
vasses), bearing more to the right, and by a snow-couloir. From the
(2V2 hrs.) Col de la CaMe-D6serte (11,515 ft.), between the Orande-
Ruine (ascent, see p. 394) and the Pic Bowrcc* (12,130 ft.; from
the col 3^4 hrs. ; difficult), we descend to the (1 hr. ) Olacier de la
Flaie-dt8-Agneaux and the (2 hrs.) Chalet-Hotd de VAlpe, etc.
Grande-Aiguille (11,228 ft.), to the S.W. of La B^rarde, beyond the
V^n^on, 5 hrs., toilsome; tariff III. This is a monotonous ascent by the
N.W. face of the mountain, but the summit commands a magnificent view.
Bocher d« VBnoonla (11,606 ft.), about 7 hrs. ; tariff III. The ascent, which
is monotonous, but not difficult, leads via the Vallon de» Etaget to the
(6 hrs.) Col de VEncoula (11,170 ft.), to the S. of the peak, whence the summit
is reached by a short chimney. The *View is magnificent. The descent
may be made on the E. into the valley of the V^n^on.
Gime de Gloobatel (11,730 ft.), about 6i/i hrs., fatiguing; UrifflH. W«
prolong the preceding route to the (2 hrs.) Glacier du Vallon ^ turn to the
left towards (8/4 hr.) a projecting rock , and reach (IV2 hr.) the rocks
at the base of the crest, and the top in 2 hrs. more. The *View is very
fine. We may descend on the £. side to the Refuge 4u Carrelet (p. 384).
To Lb Glot-bm-Valoauobmab (d. 364). — I. By tbx Col dbs Bodibs,
WITH AscBMT OF THE KouiBs, 10-11 hrs^ , fatiguing and even dangerous
when there is much snow; tariff III. The ascent is made over the Olacier
du Chardon and the Olacier det Rouiet, The (51/3 hrs.) Gol d«a Boniis
(about 10,825 ft.) is to the £. of the head of the valley of La Lavey (p. 383),
between the Vaxivier (see below) and the Routes. The view from this pa»s
resembles that from the Col de la Lauze (p. 382). The ascent of the Booies
(11,923 ft.), which takes about 1 hr. from the col, by the K. or the N.E.
aretCf is highly recommended (fine view) and presents no difficulty. De-
scent to the Col de la Muande (p. 316) and via the Olacier de la Lavey to
(61/2 hrs.) St. ChriMophe (p. 381). — II. By thb Col du Chardok, Tl/j-S hrs. ;
tariff II. This ascent is also made over the Olacier du Chardon^ towards
the middle of which we bear to the left in the direction of (about 5 hrs.)
Olacier de la Pilatte (p. 389) we proceed to the riffht vi& the Olacier du
Saps to the (61/4 hrs.) Col du Saya (10990 ft.) to the S. of the Pics du Says
(p. 389), and descend thence, at first over fatiguing rocks.
T«te de Gh4r«t (10,365 ft.), about 51/2 brs. , difficult; Uriff II. From
the (ll/a hr.) R^uge de CarreUt we proceed to the (V4 hr.) Olacier de la
Pilatte (p. 389), which we skirt for some time on the right, after which we
climb the rocks on the right and beyond them grassy slopes and (3l/s hrs.)
and iU JEmirons. LA B^RARDE. / V, Route 69. 369
a small glacier. We still keep to the right abOYe this glacier and at
length by a (Va hr.) snow-couloir reach the summit, whence there is a
grand 'View of the Pelvoux range. The descent (3 hrs.) is by the S.W.
arete to the Ool de CMrety and down a somewhat difficult chemin^e to the
Glacier du Chardofiy from which there is an easy footpath.
Pioa da Bays (11,064 ft. and 11,185 ft.), about 6 hrs., difficult. We follow
the preceding route to the (21/4 hrs.) OUscier de la Pilattey ascend the glacier
to the S.W. (11/4 hr.), and then turn to the W. to the (Vs hr.) base of the
feaks. Then we climb either by a snow-couloir to the (8/4 hr.) K. argte,
hr. below the summit, or by rocks to the S. arete. The *yiew is even
finer than that from the Tete de Cheret. — Col du SaySy etc,, see p. 388.
Vaxivier (10,863 ft.), about 5 hrs., difficult. We reach the N. base in
about 31/9 hrs. via the Olacier du Ghardon (see p. 388), ascend a precipit-
ous snOw-eouloir for 1 hr., and then follow the very difficult W. arete.
Descent from the col to Le Clot-en- Valgaudemary see p. 364.
Lea Bans (11,979 ft.), 6-6I/2 hrs. of ascent from Carrelet and about the
same time in descending; very difficult; tariff IV. We proceed across the
Olacier de la Ptlatte (see below) to (2 hrs.) its upper plateau or Grand Cirque^
beyond which there are large crevasses to cross. In 2 hrs. we reach the
Col des Bans (11,155 ft.), and in 2 hrs. more gain the top by the rocks on
the N.E. slope, a snow ridge, ice slopes, and the difficult £. arete.
To Ailefroide {VallauUe). — Oyeb the Col de la Temple, 9-
9^2 brs. (5-5 V2 ^^9.^ ascent), the easiest route from this side ; tariff II.
From (IV2 ^f*) ^* Carrelet we ascend the Combe du Vallon^
on the left bank , then ( Vt hr.) turn to the right in the direction
of the Olacier de la Temple , which we strike near its upper part
(2 hrs.) , and cross it to the E. (crevasses) to the (1 hr.) Col de la
Temple (10,770 ft.), between the Pic Coolidge (p. 387), to the left,
and the Pic de la Temple (10,873 ft.), to the right (ascent in Vt ^^*
from the col). From the col we enjoy a beautiful retrospect, while
in front of us, beyond the Glacier Noir., rises the Pelvoux. We
descend to the (1 hr.) Olacier Noir by debris and an easy rock
couloir, and cross it to the left, at the foot of the crags of the
Ecrins. We quit the moraine in 2^/^ hrs. from the col , reach the
stony desert known as the Pre de Madame Carle (6080 ft.) Vj hr.
later, and in V2 ^^' more arrive at the Refuge Cezanne, Ailefroide
is 1 hr. farther on, P^hr. from Vallouise (p. 390). — Ovbe the
Col DB lA CosTS-RouoE, about 6 hrs. from Le Carrelet, fatiguing
(falling stones dangerous); tariff II. From (l^ghr.) Le Carrelet
we proceed tD the N.E. to the (1 V1-IV4 ^'0 Olacier de la Coate-Rouge,
which we cross to the (1 hr.) Col de la Coste-Boage (10,342 It.), to
the S. of the Pic de la Temple. Thence we descend by a snow-
couloir to the (^2 hr.) Olacier Noir^ rejoining the preceding route
2-2 V2 hrs. from the Pre de Madame Carle.
Oyeb the Col de l' Ailbfboide , 872-9 hrs. from Le Carrelet,
laborious ; tariff II. We ascend to the (^4 hr.) magnificent * Olacier
de la Pilatte and mount to (Vz hr.) its lower plateau; then to the E.
by the Olacier du Coin to the {2^/^ hrs.) foot of a steep rocky wall,
up which we climb to the (1 hr.) Col de PAilefroide (10,847 ft.), to
the N. of the Pointe du SeU (p. 390). We descend by the (1 V4 hr.)
Olacier du S/U, where there is a large bergschrund ; then by the
lonely valley of the Celce-Niere to (272 l^'s.) Ailefroide (p. 391).
390 IV.Rout4 69, VALLOUISE. Pelvoux BangB
OvEB THE Col du S£l^, about 8 hrs. from Le CarrtUtf not
difficult; tariff II. We ascend to the ('/4hr.) Glacier de la Filatttf
and skirt it for a good while on the £. , to the (8V4hrs.) Col dn
S616 (10,834ft.), between the Pointt du Sc7^ (11,428 ft.; ascent of
^4 hr. from the col) and the Crete des Boeufs- Rouges (see below).
We descend also by the Olader du S^e (see p. 389) to (SVt l^fs*)
Ailefroide,
Q. Exeursioni from Vallonise and Ailefroide.
I. Fbom Yallouisb.
Vallouise or Ville- VallouUe (about 3900 ft. ; Hotel des icrins;
du Pelvoux; Hot, d^ Ailefroide, at Le PoSt, 1 M. farther on, on the
Ailefroide road) is a considerable village, not far from the station of
L'Argentiere-la-Bess^e (diligence), on the line from Gap to Bri-
angon (p. 375). It has become an important centre for excursions,
although it is not very near the chief summits of the Pelvoiix group,
and commands but a limited view. The church is interesting.
Ouideai *Pierrt Reymond, *Jo8. and *&tg. Estienne, P. A. Barnioudy of
Les Clanx^ * Pierre Semiond, of Le Sarret; V. A, OauthieVy of Pelvoux ^ Jos.
Gamier^ of Le Puy-Aillaud; D. Longit^ of Les Glaux.
TariiF. I. (eomp. p. 382), Vs day, guide 4, porter 4 fr. : 1 day, 8 and
6 fr. ~ II. i day, 15 and 10 f^.^ IVa day, 22 and 14 fr.; 2 days, 27 and
18 fr. — III. 1 day and li/o day, 25 and 15 fr.^ 2 days, 32 and 24 fr. -
Ascent of the iSerins, 50 and 30 fr. — Return-fees (p. 383), 3-10 fr. ^ the tariff
should be asked for.
Pointe de I'Aiglitee or Egliere (10,910 ft.), to the S.W., 5Vr
6 hrs., fairly easy; tariff II. We pass (V4^r«) Puy St -Vincent
and ascend a picturesque valley via the Oranges de Narreyrous
to the (4 hrs.) Col de VAigliere C10,525ft.), to the S.W. of the
Pointe, which may be climbed in V2 ^*** *"d affords a splendid
*View. Another route leads via the (5 hrs.) Col d*Entraigue8
(9600 ft.), on the N.E. of the Pointe, to the (IV2 hr.) summit. The
descent is made to the N.W. of the latter col , by the valley of the
Selle, to (4V2 lirs.) Entraigues or Entre-les-Aigues (5280 ft.; Chau-
tard's Inn), about 2 hrs, from Vallouise, via Beassac, Lea Oresov-
riereSy and Le ViUard,
Cr4te des Bfleufs-Eougea (W. summit, 11,333 ft.), 7 hrs., a long but not
very difficult ascent v.taritf IL T)ie route leads past B^atsae (about II/9 br.
see above)^ and quits the Entraigues route 1/2 hr. beyond that. View very
beautiful , but inferior to that from the Aigliere. — We may ascend also
from the Cot du SiU, see above. - The Pic de Xontbriaon (9268 ft. ; &1/2 hrs.),
to the £., is difficult near the top. — The Cime de la Gondanine (W32 ft.;
6 hrs.), to the N., via LePoit (p. 391) and the S. arete, is fairlv easy (with guide).
From Vallouise to the Valuaudemar. — The Col du Sellar or Cilard
(10,063 ft.), which is reached by the Vallon des Bans, connects Vallonlse
with the Valgaudemar^ to Le Clot (p. 364), about 9 hrs. from Ville- Vallouise.
The route is fatiguing but is not difficult until late in summer. The
col (magnificent *View) is situated between the Pic Bonvoiain (11,680 ft.),
on the S. , and the Pie dea AupiUous (11,'503 ft.), on the N., the ascents of
which are difficult (tarifi* III). The former is ascended in 21/s hrs. from
the Col du Loup (see below) , the latter in about 3l/a hrs. from the Ck>l
du Sellar. — The Col du Loup-du-Valgaudemar (10,210 ft. -, lO-lOi/g hrs. to
Le Clot), not difficult from this side, is more to the S., on tfie W. of the
and iU Environs. AILEPROlDfi. IV, Route 69. 391
Selle y&Iley , and still more to the S. is the Ool dn Sirao (ea. 10,170 ft. ^
also lO-lGi/a hrs.) , dominated en the S. by the Fie de Vtrdomne (10,910 ft.)-
Other excursions, see below. About 2 hrs. should be allowed
for the walk from Valioiiise to AilefrMde, or 4 hrs. there and back.
To L4 MoniHer (ea. 61/9 hrs.) ▼!& the (4Vs-4*/4 hrs.) Ool d* VBychauda,
and to the Lae de VEyehauda^ see p. 398.
11. FnOM AlIiSFAOIl>B.
Ailefroide (4940 ft.; Chalet -Hdtel Holland), a hamlet about
2 hrs. above Vallouise, Is situated at the Junction of the valleys of
Celce-Ni^re and St, Pierre. It Is a convenient centre for excur-
sions, hut is otherwise uninteresting. Road from Vallouise vi&
(1 M.) Le Poit (hotel, p. 390) to (2V2 M.) Les Claux; bridle -bath
thence to (1 hr.) Ailefroide.
The following useful refuaes are situated on this side of the mountains :
the Refuge Abel Lemereier (S^Bo ft. ; see below), S^/a hrs. from Ailefroide, on
the S.B. side of the Pelvoux; the Refuge Cizanne (6070 ft. ; p. 389) , li/i hr.
from Ailefroide, in the valley of St. Pierre; and the Refuge Tuckett
(SaOO ft. ; p. 392), 21/4 hrs. farther up, on the moraine of the Glacier Blane.
Guides and Tartff, see under Vallouise.
Tourists who shun difficult expeditions should at least visit (6hrs.) the
easily accessible and splendid *(?toci«r ^{a»e (p. 393), as far as the upper
plateau. The Col dee Serins (p. 393) can be readily reached from there (8-9
hrs.), the other side alone being difficult. From the col one of the most
marvellous glaeier-cirques among the Alps may be seen, and the Barre
des Serins is in sight from base to summit. — The Col Emile Pic (p. 895)
may also be climbed without serious difficulty, being dangerous only on
the opposite side. The view thence is still finer.
The Tdte delaBraye, an excellent view- point on a spur of
the PaiUon (9166 ft.), to the £., is easily reached from the chalet-
hotel in 2 hrs. by a mule-track.
To Mont Pblyoux. There are two principal routes from the Re-
fuge Lemercier (see above ; 3*/2 ^rs* f'oni Ailefroide) , neither very
difficult for experienced climbers; tariff III. We ascend the dretry
valley of Celee-Niere (see above), in which the bridle-path comes to
an end 1 hr. farther on. We then ascend to the right to the (1 hr.)
Refuge Puiaeux (7280 ft.), a precarious and now uninhabitable
shelter in the Orotto of SoureiUan. The ascent is continued in the
direction of the Pelvoux to the (1*/? hr.) Refuge Abel Lemercier
(89i6 ft.) , which can accommodate 15 people. Splendid ♦View,
comprising Monte Viso (p. 402). The sunset viewed from this point
is very grand. ~ Two routes lead from this refuge. The older
(about V/i hrs. in all) makes for the (Va hr-) Olacier du Clot-
de-V Homme, a small glacier In a couloir, full of crevasses, which
must be crossed (V^ hr.). A stiff climb follows up the Rochera-
Rouges , where we have to beware of falling stones , and in 2V2*
3 hrs. we reach a plateau of ice and hard snow between the peaks
of the Pelvoux , which we cross in order to gain the highest of
them (^/i hr.). — The second route, about 1 - IV2 ^r* shorter,
avoids the Glacier du Clot-de-l'Homme. It ascends to the E. of
that glacier to the Couloir Tuckett, by which, or still better by the
392 IV. Route 59. AILHiFRQIDfi. Pelvaux Rangt
rocks on the right hank, we reach the foot of the Petit-Pelvaux, —
The Pelvoux (12,970 ft.) , which ranks fifth only in the chain of
mountains to which it has given its name , has three summits , viz.
the Fidnte Puueux (12,970 ft.), the Pyramide (12,920ft.), and the
Petit - Pelvoux {i2,SA0 ft.). The ♦View is magnificent, including
the !^crins, the Meije, the Grandes-Rousses, the heautiful Aiguilles
d'Arves, Mont Blanc, Mont Pourri, and the Matterhorn.
The Flo Sans Kom (Mont Salvador-Guillemin ; 12,845 ft.), to the W. of
the PelTOux, about 4-4i/s hrs. from the Refuge Lemercier^ \% diftteult-,
tarifT III. The same route is taken as for the Pelvoux to beyond the Olaeier
du Glot-de-r Homme (1 br.). We then proceed to the W. to the Olaeier
Sana Nom^ to the S.E. of the peak (I/2 hr.). Near the end of this (Vs 1^')
we ascend a eouloir and some rocks (the dangerous part of the ascent)
towards the arete or a gap to the S.W. of the Pointe Puiseux , whence
the summit is soon attained. Magnificent ^Panorama.
To the Sommet de PAilefiroide. To the W. Suhhit (13,878 ft.), 9 hrs.
from Ailefroide, rather difficult; tarifi' III. We proceed to the W. to
the (3 hrs.) Qlader du SiU, thence to the N.W. to the (I1/4 hr.) Glacier de
VAilefroide^ and by that glacier to the (2 hrs.) arete^ crossing which via
(1 hr.) a snowy shoulder, and over rocks and up couloirs, we reach the
(lV4br.) chief summit. -7 To thb Gbktbal Summit (12,790 fl.), S-Si/abrs.
from Ailefroide. We ascend as above to the (ll/g hrs.) Glacier de VAik-
froide, then follow it to the N. to (IV4 hr.) the rocky buttreaa of the
peak, thence to the N.W. over rocks, and to the W. by (21/4 hrs.) the
snow-couloir. — To thb E. Summit (12,645 ft.), 8 hrs. from Ailefroide
by the Glacier du SiU^ the S. slope, the 8. arSte, and a anow-couloic
The view is specially fine to the S., in the direction of Monte Viso.
To La B6rarde. *— Oveb the Col de la Temple (see also p. 389),
9-9V2 *irs. , or 7V2'-8 lirs- from the Refuge Cezanne, one of the most
beautiful passes in Dauphiny, without serious difficulty. From
Ailefroide, we ascend to the N.W, through the VaUon de St. Pierre
to the (IVahr.) Refuge Cezanne (6070 ft.), at the end of the Pre
de Madame Carle (p. 389). We next proceed by a disagreeable
moraine to the (lY4hr.) Olaeier Noir, at the foot of the threatening
cliffs of the Serins , which rise to a height of more than 3900 ft
above us. Crossing the glacier (easy) and ascending over difficult
rocks and through a chimney, we reach the (3 hrs.) Col de la Temple
(10,770 ft. ; fine view). The descent lies partly over the crevassed
Glacier de la Temple , the lower end of which is reached in 1 hr.
The Refuge du Carrelet is reached in 2 hrs. more, and thence we
follow the Valley of the^ Ven^on to (i hr.) La B^rdrde (p. 381).
OvEE THE CoL DBS Ec&iNS, IQVj hrs. (6V2 ^^^' ^fom the Refuge
Tuckett), difficult; tariff III. From the {i^Uhi.) Pr^ de Madame
Carle (see above) we climb over difficult rocks to the (2*/4 hrs.)
Refuge Tuckett (8200 ft), a stone hut on the morainie of the Olaeier
Blanc (p. 393). Thence we ascend by this glacier to the (3 hrs.)
Col des Serins (11,205 ft.), a gap in the rocky arSte between the
Dome de Neige des Ecrins (p. 386) and the Roche Faurio (12,195 ft.;
ascent in 1 hr. from the col). A steep snow-couloir leads down to
the Glacier de la Bonne-Pierre^ after crossing which we follow the
moraine on the right bank to the (278 ^^^') t^^f'^9^ de la Bonne-
Pierre (8432 ft.; abandoned), lV4hr. from La Berarde (p. 381).
and its Environs. LA GRAV£. IV, Route 59, B93
Over the Col de la Oo$U-Rouge^ see p.389} over the Col du Sili (longer
from this side than in the opposite direction), see p. 390^ over the Col
de VAilefroidt^ see p. 389.
To the ♦icrinB (13,462 ft.; N. side), about 8 hrs. from the Refuge
Tuckett (p. 392), an expedition of the first rank, still more difficult
than from La B^rarde (p. 386); special tariff (p. 390). We follow
the same route as above. over the Olacier Blanc to the (2 hrs.) N.
foot of the iScrins. In 2 hrs. more a wide bergschrund is reached,
which is crossed by a snow-bridge. Beyond this we scale a very steep
ice-wall, entailing much step-cutting, to some small black rocks,
round whic}i the way lies. Near the summit we strike the dan-
gerous N.E. arete (above the Glacier Noir), by which the E. summit
of the Ecrins is climbed (p. 386; 3 hrs. from the bergschrund).
Pic de Neige Cordier (11,830 ft.), 5 hrs. from the Refuge Tuckett, not
very difficult ; tariff III. In 1 hr. we reach the magnificent *6lacier Blanc^
by which we ascend steeplv fordVa hrs. Two bergsehrunds are crossed and
a couloir climbed to the Col Emile Pic (11,490 ft. ; to the Chalet-Hotel de
TAlpe., p. 394), from which there is a splendid view. Hence it takes Va ^^^
to reach the summit, which lies to the N.E. Near the top there are some
rocks which require great caution in descending.
To Villa R D-D' Ar^ke (La Grave) over the Col du Olacier- Blanc (91/2-
10 hrs. from the Refuge Tuckett) or over the Col Emile Pie (11 hrd.), two
difficult routes, preferable in the reverse direction (see p. 395).
d. EzcursioBB from La Grave and Villard-d'Artoe.
La Grave (p. 370) is admirably situated for tourists, on a main
route, near the most beautiful parts of the lofty Alps of Dauphiny,
and in full view of the ipiposing Mei je. — Villard-d' Arene (p. 370),
though less finely situated than La Grave, has the advantage of being
400 ft. higher and about 1% M. nearer to the Chalet-Hotel de I'Alpe.
There are on this side the following refuges at the base of the Pelvoux
group: the Refuge- Hdtel Evarisie- Chancel (787o ft.), 3 hrs. from La Grave-,
the Chalet-Hdtel de VAlpe (6955 ft.), 3 hrs. from La Grave, 2V2 brs. from Vil-
lard-d*Arfene, and l^/a hr. from Le Lautaret (these two accessible for
mules). In addition to these is the Refuge Lpon-R^ublicain (7870 ft.), near
the Aiguilles d*Arves, 3V2 hrs. from La Grave.
GuiDBS : * Emile Pic^ * Louis Faure^ * Jules Afathon^ Frangois^ Edouard^ and
Theoph. Pic^ Jules Mctthonnet^ Jos. Savoye^ and CI. S^onnet., of La Grave.
Tariffs. Class I. (comp. p. 382), V2 day, guide 4, porter 4 fr.; 1 day,
8 and 6 fr. ^ IV2 daXi 12 and 10 fr.-, 2 days, 16 and 12 fr. — II a. 1 day,
12 and 8 fr. ; II/2 day, 18 and 12 fr. ; 2 days, 22 and 15 fr. — II b. 1 day,
15 and 10 fr. ; IV2 day. 23 and 16 fr. - III a. 1 day, 18 and 12 fr. ; IV2 <lay>
25 and 15 fr. ; 2 days, 30 and 20 fr. - Illb. 1 day, 22 and 12 fr. ; ll/o day,
28 and 18 fr. ; 2 days, 32 and 22 fr. — IVa. 1 or II/2 day, 30 and 20 fr. -,
2 days, 38 and 26 fr. ; 2V2 days, 46 and 30 fr. — IVb. 1 day, 40 and 85 fr. 5
2 days, 60 and SOfr. — For the Melje Gentrale, the S. Aig. d'Arves, and
the Pie Bourcet, 50 and 30 fr. ; for the Meije Occidentale or the :6crins, 80
and 46 fr. ; for the Serins 'en coP 90 and 6b fr. ; for the Meije Occidentale
by the central peak and the arStes 130 and 70 fr. If the summit is not
reached, a reduction is made. — Return-fees (p. 382), 3-8 fr. The tariff
should be asked for.
Tourists who merely wish a walk should ascend from La Grave to the
(3 hrs.) *Plateau de Paris or d'Emparis (8070 ft.; chalet - hotel), to the
/N.W., which may also be reached on mule-back (6 and 12 fr.). A splendid
view is obtained from this point, which may be called the Flegire of the
district. A good view is also obtained from the projection between Les
394 IV, Boute 59, LA GRAVE. Pdvaux Range
TerratUB and L* Ghaselet (p. 996), i/rV4 hr. from La Grave. From Le Gha-
xelet a path, leading to the W., erosae« the Oua and mounts in zigzags
by the (II/4 hr.) C?MleU of Oloi-Raffin to within Va hr. of the top. — The
Glacier dt la Meije (p. 395) is also accessible for mules (2 hrs. \ mule and
guide 6 fr.).
*To St. GliriBtopho over the Col de la Lanze (Glacier de Mont-
de-Lans), OVg-lO hrs. fTTom La Grave if the descent is made by the
Lac Noir, lO^/2-ll hrs. if made by the Selle valley. This is a glacier
expedition almost without difficulty to the col, and even to St.
Christophe via the Lac Noir. Tariff lib. — We cross the Romanche
and ascend to the S.W., past the chalets and lake of Puy-Vacher,
to the (3 hrs.) Refuge-Bdtel Evariste- Chancel (7875 ft), on the E.
of the Peyrou d'Aval (7920 ft.), and opposite the Peyrou d'Amont
(9390 ft.). Thence we ascend towards the (V2 hr.) little Qlacier du
Lac and skirt the left side of it (crevasses) to (1 hr.) the Col du Lae^
beyond which we cross the snow-flelds of the Qirote Olacier to the
(IV2 liT.) *Col de la Lauze (11,625 ft.); see p. 382.
Beo de THomme (11,256 ft.), 61/2 hrs. from La Grave or Villard-d'Ar^ne,
rather difficult; tariflf Ilia. We ascend the (S1/2 hrs.) Pie de V Homme
9525 ft.), and thence follow the N. arete to the Bee. Fine view of the Meije.
The Cbalet-H6tel de I'Alpe (6955 ft.; bed 1^2, d^j. or D.3Vtfr.,
incl. wine) is situated in a charming spot at the junction of the
Romanche with the torrent descending from the Arsine glacier
(p. 395), and near Lac Pair, It is reached in 3 hrs. by a mule-
track (guide-posts) beginning at {^l^hi.) VUlard-d* Arene (p. 370),
and is the starting-point for many important excursions.
The Source of ike Romanche is II/4 hr. farther on, at the Lac dt
VEtoiley situated at the end of the Olacier de la FlaU-dei-Agneaux^ in t
circus of magnificent mountains.
Fio de Keige du Lautaret (Oime Orientate, 11,605 ft.), 5Vs hrs. from
the Chalet-Hotel de TAlpe, difficult; tariff Ilia.
Pic Oaapard (12,730 ft.), 6V2-W2 hrs. from the Chalet-Hotel de l*Alpe,
difficult; tariff IV b. We ascend the vallev of the CM-des-Cavales^ then
by the Olacier Claire , the Col Claire (10,990 ft.), and a couloir to the top.
Or (more difficult) we ascend to the (21/2 brs.) Upper Olacier du Clot-det-
Cavales, then over abrupt rocks , which are rather loose towards the end,
to (3 hrs.) a couloir. This brings us in IVa hr. to a first peak , to the
S. of the Pic Gaspard , and the latter peak itself is gained in S/4 ^^•
more. Splendid view, extending on the N.E. as far as Mont Blanc and the
Gran Paradiso, but limited on the S. — To the Pav4, see p. 386; to La
Berarde by the Briche de la Meije, etc., see p. 395.
*Orande-&aine (19,317 ft.), 6-61/2 hrs. from the Chalet-Hdtel de I'Alpe;
fairly ea&y, especially if there is plenty of snow; tariff lUb. We ascend
the valley of the Romanche and quit it above the convergence of the
valley of the Clot-des-Cavales, turning to the left between a huge moraine
and the Roche Miane (see below). We skirt this peak, to the left of the
Olcuiier de la Ccuse- Dis'rUy and climb towards the (3l/a hrs.) Col de la
Casse-Ddserte, short of which, via the Upper Olacier de la Plate-des-Affneaux
(crevasses), we gain the (IV4 br.) foot of the S.E. arete, and by the
latter (difficult in places) reach the (IV4 hr.) central summit (Pointe Bre-
voort; 13,317 ft.). The *View is superb. We may descend to La Berarde
by the Col de la Casse-D^serte (3 hrs. ; p. 388).
The Boehe Ktone (13,140 ft.), very difficult, is aaeended in 3V2 krs. from
the Upper Glacier de la Plate des Agneaux by the main arite and the N.W.
•lope.
and it$ Environt, LA GRAVE. IV, Route 59, 395
The Keije {Grand Pic or Pie Occidental, 13,080 ft.) is ascended
from La Grave in 10-12 hrs., with the same difficulty as from Le
Ch^telleret (p. 385). We first ascend on the E. side of the Olacier
du Tahukchet in about 4 hrs. to the Rocker de VAigle, where a re-
fuge-hut is to be erected. Thence in 3-4 hrs. to the He Central
(13,075 ft.), by the depression on itsE. side and the N.E. face, and
in 3-4 hrs. more to the Grand Pic, across the jagged W. arete and
the deep gap of the Breche Zsigmondy (very difficult). Gomp. p. 386.
To La B^rabdb ove& the B&^obe de la Meije, to the W. of
the Grand Pic (see above), iO-lOVa hrs. from La Grave, rather diffi-
cult from this side and preferable from La B^rarde, the night
being spent at the Refuge du Ch&telleret (pp.384, 387). Tariff III b.
Crossing the Romanche, we ascend directly to the S. towards the
(1 hr.) Chalets de Chalvachere and beyond the (3 hrs.) Gite BouUlet
reach a (3 hrs.) bergschrund, which we .cross to the (Vt l^r.) Breche,
By another route we ascend due S. towards the Glacier de la Meije,
to theN.W. of the Grand Pic, and in 2 hrs. reach the Enfetchores
(7550 ft.), a rocky ridge in this glacier. Then we climb this ar^te
(3 hrs.) and cross the bergschrund to the (1^4 hr.) Brdohe de la Keije
(10,827 ft) , to the W. of the enormous rocky walls of the Grand
Pic de la Meije. The descent is fairly easy, across the Glacier
des ttan^oM (p. 386), to the (2V4hrs.) Refuge du Chdtelleret (p. 384),
and thence in IVt ^^- to I^o> Berarde (p. 381). — Over the Col du
Clot-des-CavaJes (10,260 ft.), about 9 hrs. from the Chalet-Hdtel
de TAlpe (to the col, 4-5 hrs.), fairly easy and less fatiguing than
in the reverse way, but rather longer; tariff lib. (see p. 387). We
descend via Le Chdtelleret,
To Ailefroide (Vallouise). — I. Bt the Col Emilb Pig, 10-11 hrs. from the
ChaUt-Hdtel de VAlpe (p. 384), not difficult for adepts ■, tariff III a. In 1/2 br.
(from the chalet) we reaeh the point where the valleys ascending towards the
Glacier du Clot-des-Cavales (p. 887) and the Glacier de la Plate-des-Ag-
neaux diverge from each other. In 1 hr. more we reaeh the foot of the real
ascent and II/2 hr. later the Olacier de la PlaU-des-Agneaux^ where there are
numerous crevasses, and in 3V4 hrs. from there the Col Emfle Fio or de
laPlate-de»-Agneaux (11,490 ft.), to the E. of the Pic de Neige-Cordier (p. 393).
The view is rather limited, but beyond the col we get sight of the im-
mense basin of the Glacier Blanc and opposite of the ticrins. We de-
scend via the (I/2 hr.) Glacier Blanc, the (1- IV4 br.) Refuge Tuekett (p. 392),
the (1 V4-l^/3 br.) Pride Madame Carle (p. 389), and the (V4 hr.) Refuge CHanne
(p. 389), to (l/a hr.) Ailefroide (p. 391) and (I3/4 hr.) VaUouite (p. 390). —
n. Over the Col du Olaoier Blano (10,854 ft.), 11-13 hrs. from the Chalet-
Hotel de TAlpe, a difficult ascent by the {jSfi/^ hrs.) Glacier d'Arsine; tariff III.
Descent by the Glacier Blanc to the (2 hrs.) Refuge Tuckett-t etc., see p. 393.
We may ascend to the £. of the Col du Glacier Blanc to (30 min.) the
Pie du Olacier Cordier (ii,(X)8 ft.) , which commands a fine view.
To THE Aiguille do Gol^on, on the N. , 6Vt or 6V4 hrs. from
La Grave, fairly easy; tariff II a. The most convenient route,
by the S. slope, leads towards the Col Lombard (p. 396) and thence
via the Chalets de Puy- Gamier, Another route, on the W. slope,
leads vU the Col de Martignare (p. 396), whence is there is a
somewhat fatiguing scramble over debris , difficult near the top.
The *Aigiiille du Goiten (11,250 ft) is one of the principal summit?
396 IV, Route 69. LA GRAVE. POooux Uange
to the N. of La Grave and beyond question the peak that com-
mands the finest ♦View of the Pelvottx group , and of the Meije
especially, owing to its isolation on this side and its height; there
is also a fine view of the hold Aiguilles d^Arves. To the N. stretch-
es the Olacier Lombard, beyond which are the Aiguilles de la
Saussaz (10,880 ft.) and the Col Lombard (see below).
To THB AiouiLLBs d*Arvb8, about 6V2 h's* 0^ l^cB- from La Qfave). The
least difficult ascents lead via the Col Lombard (see below). The Aignillea
d'Arvea are three in number: the Aiguille MMdionale (ii,49<3ft. ; special
tariflF), which is difficult and even dangerous ; the AiffwiUe Gentrale (11,512 ft. \
tarift IVa), not very difficulty and the Aiguille JSeptentriMole (ll455ft.-,
tariff I Vb), which is said to be as difficult as the Grand Pie de la Helje
(p. 385). — The Aiguilles de la Saussaz (10,840 and 10,895 ft.), on the other
side (S.) 6f the Col Lombard, are ascended thence in 3 hrs.
To St. Jbak-d^Arvbs. I. Ovbs thb Col db l'Imfbbitbt, ea. 8 hrs. from
La Grave, road and mule-tracks \ a guide is useful as far as the col \ tariff I.
We first ascend to the N. via the (I/4 hr.) Terrasses to (Va **'•) ^^ ChaxeUi
(to the Col de Martignare, see below) and thence proceed to the K.W. via
Les £<««<«, the (13/4 hr.) Baroque des Salomong^ and (l/j hr.) the 3ar<»que
de la Buffe. The Col de rinfemet (8825 ft.) is a slight denression, 41/4-
41/2 hrs. from La Grave, to the E. of the Pic du Mas de la Grave (9920 ft. ;
IV2 Jir. \ easy). The "View is fine to the N. and S. The path descends
on the N. , via (21/9 hrs.) Entraigues-en-Arves^ to (IV4 hr.) [St. Jean-
d'Arves (5086 ft.; p. 314). — II. Ovbr thb Col db Martioiiabb, 73/4 hrs.,
mule-tracks except on the col; tariff I. From (8A hr.) Le Chazelet (see
above) we proceed to the N. visl the hamlet of La vhal and the right side
of a valley at the head of which Is the (3V4 hr.) Ool de Martignare (ca.
8630 ft. ; fine retrospect) , to the W. of the Aiguilles du GoUon and de la
Saussaz (see above). We [descend to the right (view), and below the
(Ihr.) Oranges de la Saussax join the preceding route. — III. Ovbb thb
Col Lombasd, 10 hrs., paths except on the eol; tariff I. The footpath
leading via the Col Lombard (refuge) runs at first towards the K.E., after
passing the first tunnel on the Le Lautaret road. Farther on it passes Fe»-
telon (about »/4 hr.), Les Hikre* (I/4 hr. •, 5810 ft.) , and PrameUer (l/g hr. ;
6070 ft.). It then enters a wild valley to the left. In front th« Aiguilles
' d'Arves are already seen. Farther on we cross the lower OtaHer Lombard
(easy), and pass the (3 hrs.) Refuge Lyon-RipubUeai» (ca. 7870 ft.) to the
Col Lombard (10,365 ft.), 63/4 hrs. from La Grave, between the Aiguilles
de Saussaz, on the S., and the Aiguilles d^Arves, on the N. (see above).
Descent via the (IV2 hr.) Chalets du Rieu Blanc (ca. 7350 ft.) to the
(IV2 hr.) valley of the Arvette^ where we join the two preceding routes.
e. Ezonrfions from Le Lautaret.
Le Lot^^arg^ (p. 370) is more a summer-resort than an excursion-
centre , but it may be used as the starting-point for several of the
expeditions given under La Grave (p. 393) and Le Mondtier (p. 397).
Guides are obtained from one or other of these centres (same tariffs).
— The Chalet-mtel de VAlpe (p. 394), reached by a bridle-patli in 3Vs hrs.,
is the only refuge in the neighbourhood of Le Lautaret. Among the ex-
cursions made thence (starting either from Le Lautaret or La Grave) are
those to the Pic de Neige du Lautaret (p. 394), the Pie Qaspard (p. 394),
and the Orande-Ruine (p. 394).
To the Pyramide du Lauriohard K9104 ft.), 2V2 brs., easy; guide ne-
cessary. We ascettd tke valley of the Le Lautaret stream to the it hrs.)
Col du Lauriahard {8721 ft.), whence the summit is reached in 1/9 hr. via
the S. arete. Fine view. — The Chalet-mtel de I'Alpe (p. 394) is reached
from the col in IV2 hr.
To the Pic de Oombeynot (10,376 ft.), between the valleys of the
Bonunehe and the Gnisane^ 3S/4 hrs., without difaeuity; luiffUa. We
and iti Envirom, LE LAUXARET. IV. Route 69. 397
enter, on this side of the eol> the valley from ^yhich the Ouisane deseends,
then another valley on the right, leading to a terrace, beyond which the
ascent is steeper. The W. summit, reached hence in SVa hrs., is about
30 fk. higher than that on the E. Fine *Panorama, extending to Mont
Blanc. The amphitheatre formed on the !N.E. by the Pelvoux range is
in front of us, with the great glaciers of Arsine, Plate-des-Agneaux, and
Clot-des-Cavales.
To the Koehe du Orand-Qalibier (10,638 ft.)i to the E. of |the route to
the col of that name (see below), 4i/s hrs., easy; tariff II a. We ascend
to the K., by a path which cuts off the zigzags of the road, to (V4 hr.)
La Mandette (see below)., then to the right to the S.B. arSte, which we
climb to the left to the summit. Beautiful •View. — The Roche du Petit-
OaUbier (9385 ft.), to the W. of the route , from which it can be as-
cended in 50 min., also affords a fine view.
To La Part or the Pic dei Trois-EvieMs (10,235 ft.), 3i/a-4 hrs.,
without difficulty \ tariff II a. The route leads by the valley of the Torrent
de Roche- Noire y to the N. S. , at the head of whicli we ascend the crest
of the mountain first to one peak (10,155 ft.) and then to the other. The
*View is beautiful. The second name of this mountain refers to the fact
that it stands on the spot where the bishoprics of Grenoble, Gap, and
St. Jean-de-Maurienne meet.
To St. Michel -db-Maubienne via tbe Col du Galibieb,
27*/2 M., diligence in summer (June 15th -Sept. 15th) in 6 hrs.
(8V4 hrs. back); fare 12 fr. This magnificent road (short-cuts for
pedestrians) is the most direet route between the Dauphiny and
SaYoy Alps and it is the highest road in Europe next to the Stelvio
Pass (9055 ft.) in Tyrol. It ascends steeply via (2V2 M.) La Man-
dette to (5 M.) a Twmel (1240 ft.), passing below the Col da Oa-
libier (8720 ft.), between the Petit and Grand Galibier (see above).
The descent leads via (10 M.) Pont de V Achate (7034 ft.; Refuge),
on the Valloirette, and (16 Va M.) Valloire (4690 ft. ; Hot. du Grand-
Galibier, pens. 7-9 fr.), a large and finely situated village, whence
a mail-car (4 fr.) plies to St. Michel. The road again ascends and
beyond a short tunnel descends in wide zigzags. — 27 Vt ^* S^*
M.iehelr'de' Mauriennty see p* 314.
t Ezcnrsioni from Le Kondtier.
Le Monetier-les- Bains (p. 371) owes its importance as a tourist
centre to its nearness to Briangon as well as to that part of the Pel-
voux range which consists of the minor range of Seguret-Foran.
Gnidea. Jacques Bois and Xavier OalUce.
Tariffs. Glass I. (see p. 393), V2 day. guide 4, porter 4 fr. ; 1 day, 8 and
6 fr. — II. 1 day, 12 and 8 fr. : IV2 day, \8 and 12 fr. •, 2 days, 22 and 15 fr. —
III. 1 day, 16 and 10 fr.^ li/a day, 22 and 14 fr. ; 2 days, 27 and 18 fr. —
Return -fees (p. 393} 3-7 fr. The tarifi' should be demanded.
To the Pic de Combeynot and the Grand-Gnlihier^ see above.
To THE Chalet-H6tel de l'AIiPe oveb the Col d'Absine, about
5 hrs., a toilsome mule-track, but the shortest way to the Meije and
Ecrins ; guide unnecessary ; tariff I.- We first proceed by the Lautaret
road as far as (^/g hr.) Le Cosset^ and then turn to the left up the val-
ley of the Petit-TabuCy having on the right the Montagne du Vallon
(10,115 ft.) and on the left the Montagne de 8te. Marguerite {S^Qb ft.).
In 172-2 hrs. we reach the Lac de la Douche j and beyond it we
398 IV, Route 59. LE MONETIER.
have a very steep ascent, followed by a kind of circus containing
three lakelets and the Chalets d'Arsine (about IVthr.)* At this
point the path turns to the S. W., in the direction of the large
Arsine Glacier, above which rise the JPic d€s Agneaux (see below ;
to the left) and the Pic de Neige-Cordier (p. 393 ; to the right). In
about ^/j hr. more we reach the Col d'Artine (7S74 ft), whence we
descend to the N.W. by a very steep slope to the Chalet- Hotel de
VAlpe (about 1 hr. ; p. 394).
Fio du Fr«8-le«-Foads (11,084 ft.)i the highest summit Tisible from
Le Monetier, to the S.W., about GVa^'o^ eomparatively easy; tariff UI.
We ascend to the S.W. to the (3 hrs.) Orangettes huts in the beautiful
Valley of the TaXme^ and then to the right over pastures and debris to the
(IV2 hr.) Glacier de Pris-les-Fonds ^ which we cross to the N.B. arSte, a
short distance below the (31/4 !»'•) C?o« des Pris - let - Fondt (10,170 ft.).
Thence in about 1 hr. to the summit. We may descend by the W. arete
to the Gol du Cosset (10,763 ft.) and thence across the (1 hr.) Olacier du
Afonitier to the (8/4 hr.) Tabuc Valley^ II/4 hr. from Le MonStier.
To the Lac de VEychauda, 41/2 hrs., not difficult; tariff I. We first
ascend, to the S.W., in the valley of the Tabuc; we then (3 hrs.) proceed
either over the Col des Orangettes (11/2-3 hrs.; 8780 ft.), or over the Col de
MontagnoUe (3 hrs.; 9130 ft.?), to the left of the Rocher de VYret (9860ft.),
whence we descend in about 1/2 hr. to the lake. The Lao de P£yohauda
or Echauda (9025 ft.) , about 1/2 ^- long by 1/4 M. broad , is situated in
a wild and striking region , at the foot of the Olacier de VBychauda.
Several Little icebergs float upon its surface. A route leads over the
last-named glacier and the difficult Col de Siguret-Foran (10,946 ft.) to
the Refuge Cezanne (p. 389). If, however, we skirt the left bank of the
stream issuing from the lake^ through a gorge flanked on the N.E. by the
Roeher de V Yret^ we join in 1 hr. the path from Le MonStier to Vallouise
(see below),
Pio dea Agneaux (13,008 ft.), 61/2-7 hrs., difficult; tariff IV. In about
6 hrs. we reach the Col Tuckett (li,484 ft.), to the E. of the peak , and
above the Olacier du Afonitier. Thence we climb to the N. W. to the
(I/2 hr.) summit, which commands a very fine *View. — The Cot Tuckett
and the Col Jean Oauthier (10,660 ft.), farther to the S.W. , two difficult
passes, lead to Valleuise via the Refuge Tuckett (p. d93).
To Yallouise oveb the Col be l'Eyohauda or de VcUlouiat,
about 6 hrs., mule-track ; tariff I. This route ascends the valley of
the Torrent de Corvarlay which is to the E. of and parallel to the
Tabuc valley. On the left is the Croix de la Cucumelle (8869 ft.),
a fine view-point. In 3 hrs. we reach the Col de TEyohauda, or Col
de Vallouise (7970 ft.), between the Cucumelle and the Rockers des
Neyzets (9030 ft.), whence we descend into the Vallon de V Eychauda.
passing Rieou-la-Selle, Fourchier, Chamhran, Les CJ^otUikres^ and
(2V2 hrs.) Les Claux, ^/^ hr. from Vallouise (p. 390).
To Valloirb otbr thb Col db la Ponso»ni^rb, 7 hrs. We follow the
Lautaret route as far as (Si/o M.) Le Lautet (p. 371), and thence akirt the
left bank of the Rif to the (3 hrs.) Col de la Ponaonnidro (8686 ft.), between
the Pic de la Ponsonnihre (9925 ft.) and the Crite de Cotombe Cl0,435 ft.), on
the W., and the Pie de la AfouUnikre (9890 ft.) and Pic des Biraud€$^ on
the £. A descent of 1 hr. from the col, by the Chalets des JipHes^ brings
us to the Pont de V Achate (p. 397), 6l/a M. from^ VaUoire (p. 397).
To NivACHB, ETC., OVER THE CoL DB BuppiRE, 41/8-5 hrs., Uninteresting,
by a mule -track which makes a guide unnecessary. We follow the
Brianfon route at first, and turn to the left at (I/3 hr.) Le Frtgstinet^ a
little beyond Les Ouibertes. Thence we ascend to a house above ub, on
the left. In I1/4 hr. we reach Puy-Freyssinet (to the left), and in II/4 hr.
VALL^E DU GUIL. IV. Route 60. 399
mofe ihe Col de BufAre (8830 ft.), between preeipitous eliffs. During the
aseent we enjoy a fine retrospeetive view of the Pelvoux range, but during
the descent we Bee nothing but bare summits without glaciers. In 3/4 br.
we reach the Chalets de Jhiff'h'e^ and in 8/4 br. more, by a difficult path,
enter the valley of the GtairSe, beyond which atream is Laeou , a hamlet
belonging to Nivache^ the main parts of which are lOorflQmin. lower
down the valley (p. 377).
60. Valine du Guil. (lueyras. Monte Viso.
a. From Kont-Dauphin-GhiilleBtre to Abridi.
33 M. Diligence daily and excursion-ears in the season in 6-6Vs ^rs.
(fares 61/2^ 5fr.); to Chdteau-Quepras, about 4 hrs. (fares 4, Sl/g fr.). —
This valley is comparatively little frequented and is sttll somewhat
primitive. The roads are dusty.
Mont'Dauphin-O^uUlestre and Mont-Dauphin , see p. 375. —
IV4M. Quillestre (3117 ft.; Hotel Imbert), a small town with 1360
inhab., is of ancient origin despite its wretched appearance. The
church has a porch like that at £mbrnn (p. 375).
On the banks of the Ouil, about 1 M. from the town, is the Gharrikre
or Rue des Masques , clefts with fantastic rocks , which tradition connects
with Druid worship.
Fbom GKjillbstrb to St. Paul-sur-Ubaye, 17 M., about 51/2 ^'S. walk
(41/4 hrs. of ascent). The road, partly practicable for carriages, enters
the valley of the Chagne to the S.E., passing Vars (about 2 hrs. \ 6445 ft. ;
Rostollan s Inn). Thence we proceed by the (13/4 br.) Refuge du Col de
Vars and the (I/2 hr.) Col de Vara (6940 ft.) into the valley of the Ubaye.
— St. Paul'Sur-Dbape^ see p. 374.
FSOH OUILLBSTRB TO MaLJASSET OVER THE CoL DES HoUBRTS (Font-
Sancte)^ ca. 10 hrs., road and footpath, guide necessary from (2 hrs.) the
deserted hamlet of Escreins (5580 ft.). From the valley of the Chagne,
which we first enter, we turn to the left into that of the Rioubel The
Col des Houerts (ea. 9020 ft.) is 3 hrs. farther on in the same direction
(E.)- thence we descend in about IV4 hr. to the N.E. to Maljasset (p. 186).
~ The ascent of the Pointe de la Font-Sanote (11,055 ft. ; view), the chief
summit of the Queyras, may also be made via Escreins, in 7-8 hrs.
About IV4 M. from Guillestre the Valine du Ouil becomes very
interesting, and the road attains a great height. Here begins the
* Combe du Queyras, a wild defile about 6 M. long, between lofty
walls of rock where road and river dispute the way. The name
Queyras applies to the whole district traversed by our present route.
On the opposite side is the Crete de Catinat {Roc Saphie; 8050 ft.).
572 aM. La Maison-du-Roi (inn), a hamlet so called because
Louis XIII. stopped here in 1629, is situated at the motith of the
Combe de CeiUae, watered by the CrUtUlan.
From La Maisom-du-Roi to Mauassbt, over the Col de CHrardin (5 hrs.)
or over the Col de Tronchet (68/4 hrs. \ guide useful). Both routes lead
past {JStS..) Ceillac (5348 ft. ; inn), a village at which diverges the road to
Chateau-Queyras over the Col Fromage (p. 400). They separate at (8/4-
1 hr. farther) St. Claude (5900 ft.), in the valley of the Melezet. The path
to the right leads past the (21/4 hrs.) Lac Ste. Anne (7930 ft), then to the
N. of the Font-Sancte (see above), to the (IV4 hr.) Col Oirardin (8855 ft.),
1 hr. above Maljeutet (p. 374). — The path by the other valley (inferior)
leads via two more hamlets and a beautiful waterfall to (21/2 hrs.) tbe Col
Tronchet (8745 ft.), less than IV4 hr. from Maljasset (p. 374).
400 IV. Route 60. ABRIES. ValUe
The road crosses the stream several times as it descends the
gorge. IOV2 M. Le Veyer; H M. La Chapelue, At the head of
the Combe d' Arvieux , in which the road to Brian^on over the Col
d'Izoard descends (see p. 376), we come in sight of Ch&teau-Queyras.
15 M. Ch&tean-Queyras (4400 ft.; Bdtel Puy-Cot; H6t. dts
Voyageurs), a most picturesque old fortress^ on a rocky hill in the
midst of the valley.
To the S. S. rises Uie Sommet-BueKer (7410 ft. ; ascent in 3 hrs.' by a
military road ; view). — To the right is the fine VaUey of Bramousse, by
whieb Ceillac (p. 389) may be reached on mule-back in 6 hrs. The path
crosses the Col du Petit Fromage (7445 ft.), which is also reached from
Molines (see below), in 1 hr. The *View is admirable-, to the N. appear the
bold limestone pinnacles known as the JfameUes (8690 ft. and 8930 It.), the
ascent of which is dangerous (IVs br.); to the S. the Oeillae Chain^ with
the Pointe de la Saume (10,610 ft.) and the Pointe des Henviirei (10J40 ft.),
covered with steep glaciers.
From Ch&teau-Queyras to Briangon (Bochebrune), see pp. 377, 376.1
The road again approaches the Quil. — 16VtM. VilU-VieUU
(4520 ft. ; l^l^phant), at the mouth of the Combe de Molinea, watered
by the Aigtie-Agnelle or Aigue- Blanche.
A carriage<road, afterwards degenerating into a bridle-path, leads by
the ^Combe* towards several cols on the frontier. On the left bank, lower
down, is a ^colonne coiffee*, «. «. needle-rock partly preserved frona erosion
by a block of hard stone resting on its top. To the S.W. of (4i/a M.)
Molines (5445 ft.; Bellon; Mathieu) are the Col du Petit Fromage and the
Mamelles, hidden by an intervening chain of hills. The road forks. The
branch to the right leads to (31/3 H.) St. Viran (6690 ft.; Hotel Fine, fair),
one of the highest villages in France , and over either the Gol 3t. Vimm
(9331 ft.) or the Col Blanchet (9506 ft.) to (41/2 hrs.) Gastel Delfino (see
below). To the N. £. of the latter col rises the nu de§ To{Ui€$ (10,430 ft.;
8/4 hr. : rather difficult), on the S.E. side of which is the Cot de la Noirt
(ca. 8855 ft.), di/2 hrs. above Maljauet (p. 374).
The branch to the left at Molines ascends past Peyregrosst and (1 hr.)
Fongillarde to (21/4 hrs.) the Ool Agnel (9003 ft. ; refuge), and thenee down
the valley of the Vara'ita to (41/4 hrs.) Castel Delftno or Chdteau Dauphin
(Hot. de France)^ a little town which belonged to Dauphiny until 1713,
when it was exchanged with Piedmont for Barcelonnette (p. 374). The
ascent of Monte Viso may be made hence (see p. 403). — About !/• hr.
to the N.£. of the Gol Agnel is the Col Vieux (8968 ft.), whence the Pais
de Sucre (10,605 ft.) may be ascended In 1 hr. The view is very fine. —
Farther off is the Pio Aati (10,995 ft.), the ascent of which is very difficult on
account of the precipitous and crumbling rocks. — The Oraade • Aif nil-
lette (10,817 ft. ; splendid view) is easily ascended from the Gol Vieax
via the Brhehe de Ruines (9360 ft.) in about 31/q hrs. — From the Col
Vieux we may descend into the Guil valley by the Vallon de Foriani (as-
cent of the Roehe-Taillante^ see p. 401).
lOVs M. Aiguilles (4755 ft.; Gherin, Avas, both modest) is a
flourishing industrial village, the inhabitants of which often make
their fortunes by crossing to America.
23 M. Abrids (5090 ft 5 Qr. H6t. d'AhHet, pens. 8 fir. ; de la
Paste; du Mont-Vieo; du Chamois), the principal place in the upper
part of the Guil valley, has a fine Romanesque church. Abries is
well situated for excursions and ascents among the mountains of
the frontier. — Guides, Ant. Veritier and Claude Beynaud,
The Vallon du Bouehet, which runs first to the N. and then to the £.,
here forms the pretty Combe de Valpreveyre. At the Valpreveyre Ohalets
du GuiL MEIDASSA. IV. Route 60, 401
the smiling Vdllon cT Urine diverges to the 6.E., leading to the Col d' Urine
(8323 fk.). From this side the fatiguing but fairly easy aseent of the conical T«t«
du Pelvas (9605 ft.) is made (Si/s hrs. from Abri^s ; guide 8-10 fr.), affording
a magnificent and almost unlimited *View. The aseent may also be made
(5 hrs.) from Abri^s over the (31/2 hrs.) Collette de Jillf^ to the S.E. of the
Jilly (8110 ft.). — Towards the end of the valley, at the E. angle of the
frontier, is the Brie-Souohet (9835 ft.), ascended in 51/3 hrs. from Abries
(guide 12 fr.). It is toilsome during the latter half and dangerous towards
the end. — In continuing to the IT., towards the elbow formed by the
Bouchet near (1 hr.) Le Roux (5795 ft.), we pass, at La Uontettey the end
of another valley running £. to the Col St. Martin or d'Abrih (8630 ft.).
The accent of the Srio-Froid (10,833 ft.), rising over another defined angle
of the frontier, takes about 6 hrs. from Abries (guide 8-10 fr.). — A path
leads from La Montette to the "S.W. over the (3-3V4 hrs.) Col des Turres
(9190 ft.) to Turres, Bousson, {^nd (5 hrs.) Cisanne (p. 377).
b. From Abrite to the Konte Viso.
The road runs to the S.E. through the Valine du Guil for about
71/s K. more and leads to comparatively frequented cols, where, however,
there are nothing buff footpaths.
In about 2^2 M. we reach the village ofRistolaa (5355 ft.) ; 1^2 M.
fartilier on is the hamlet of La Monta (5445 ft.; inn), and V4 M. farther
on that of Jja Chalp (5560 ft.). Guides are to be found in all three.
Between La Monta and La Chalp a path to the N.E. leads to the Col
delaOroiz (31/2 hrs. from Abries; 7975 ft.), near which there is a hospice
refuge (7545 ft.). Grand view from the col of Monte Yiso and the Val Pellice.
Thence the descent is made in 31/2 hrs. to the little town of Bobbio (3438 ft. ;
H6tel del Camoscio) on the Pellice, in the most important of the Vaudois
Valleys , which have been occupied for 600 years by Vaudois immigrants
from France.
Another path, to the S. beyond La Chalp, ascends the Vallon de Foriamt
to the (31/4 hM.) Col Vieux (p. 400) , passing (21/2 hrs.) the Lacs Egourgeou
and (1 hr.) the Lac Foriani. From the first lake adepts may ascend the
Eoehe-Taillante (10,500 ft. ; 31/2 l^^s. \ guide), a curious mountain, the arete
of which, 6 M. long , is shaped like a scimitar. We must climb to a de-
pression in the crest 3/4 hr. to the W. of the summit, and then follow
some small couloirs, among the huge slabs of rock on the back of the
crest, which are steep and slippery.
On the right opens the Vallon de Foreant (see above). The
path to La TraverMtte diverges to the left farther on, about 4 hrs.
from Abries.
About 1 hr. from the fork is the Bergerie du Grand- Vallon (7780 ft.), with
the new Refuge Touring Club of the F. A. C, and li/2 hr. farther on is the
Col de la Traversette (9680 ft.), on the K. side of which is a Tunnel, 80 yds,
long, eut in 1478-80 but now impassable. To the N.W. is the Pio de la
TntTerae (9760 ft.) , the ascent of which , free from danger, takes 3-31/2 hrs.
from the fork. — To the N. E. is the Oranero (10,400 ft.), which may be
easily ascended- from the col in V4-lhr. The ascent of the Meidassa
(10,185 ft.), to the right of the col, is still easier, and in the early morning,
when there is no mist, affords nearly the same view of the Monte Viso
and the plains of Piedmont. — From the col we descend on the Italian side,
passing near the Sources of the Po, to the (2 hrs.) Piano del Re (6695 ft. ; inn \
aseent of Monte Viso, see p. 402) and the beautiful Grotte du Rio Martin 0
(8300 ft. : 3/4 hr. from Crissolo ; guide 8 fr.) , to the village of Grisaolo or
Crussol (4680 ft. ; Hdtel de la Couronne; guides). The nearest railway-station
is Barge (Lion d'Or), IOV2 M. to the N.E., on the line to (131/2 M.) Pinerolo
and (96 H.) Turin (see Baedeker^s Northern Italy).
The path ascending to the head of the Gull valley ultimately
crossesthe Col de VaUante (9270 ft.), 4 hrs. from the last fork, and
Baedeker. Southern France. 4th Edit. 26
402 IV, Route 6L SISTERON.
descends to (3V4br8.) Ccutel Delfi.no (p. 400). To the left of the col
is the Funta Oatttaldi (10,725 ft.; ascent in IVi^^-j difflcult), and
to the right is the Oima di Losetta (see helow). Farther off are
the fine rock-peak of the VUolotto (11,000 ft.), and then Monte
Viso itself.
*M0Bte Yiso (12,606 ft.\ on Italian territory , is the highest svunmit of
the Gottian Alps (for experts onlv ; guide 30, from Queyras 25 fr.)- From
Grissolo we follow the bridle-path to the (2 hrs.) Piano del Re (p. 4^1),
whence we proceed to the E., via the Passo delle Sagnette (9760 ft.) to the
(31/2 hrs.) Rifugio Quintino Sella of the Club Alpino Italiano (9680 ft.),
in the Vol delle Foreiolline. Thence we reach the summit by a stiff climb
of 4 hrs. up the S. face. The superb ''Panorama embraces Mont Blanc
and Monte Rosa on the "N.
A grand view of the Viso is obtained from the Oima di LoMita or
Poinie Joanne (10,090 ft.), to the W. of the Col de Vallante. The ascent,
difficult on this side, is easily made from the Guil valley, by proceeding
towards the Ool de la Laugette or.de Sotutra X9dQi ft.), on the slope farthest
from the Col de Vallante, and then bearing to the left, toward the snow
on the v. side.
61. From Grenoble to Digne and to Fnget-Thtoiers.
I. From Grenoble to Digne. Bassee Alpee .
123 M. Railway in 7-71/4 hrs. (fares 2afr.25, 16fr.5, 9fr. 76 c.).
To (68 M.) Veyneiy where carriages are changed, see pp. 371-373.
— The train runs back for about 2V2 M. to reach the Buech valley,
which it descends. Id^/^M, Pont-de-Chabestan. To the left, farther
on, is the village of La Bdtie-Montsaleon, the Mons Seleuci of the
Romans, near which the usurper Magnentius was overthrown by
Constantius in 353.
78 M. Serrei (Hdtel Moulin) is a small town, picturesquely aiivt-
ated beside a steep rocky promontory on the right bank [of the
Buech. The character of the scenery now changes; the mountains
are arid and rugged, but the almond-trees Indicate that we are near-
ing Provence. *— 92 M. Mison, The Buech is crossed by a lofty curved
viaduct, near the Durance (to the left), beyond which we pass
through a tunnel, nearly Vt^- ^^^Si beneath the citadel of Sisteroii.
98V2 M. Siiteron (1580 ft.: Hotel det Acacias ;" Laehaud)^ the
ancient Segustero, with 3900 inhab. and a large trade in almonds, is
picturesquely situated at the confluence of the Bu€ch and Durance.
The old Citadel, overlooking the town, presents an imposing appear-
ance. The other chief features are the Towers of the old ramparts
and the Church of Sotre-Dame, formerly a cathedral, mainly of the
11 -12th centuries. The portal, with its tasteful small columns, is
noteworthy.
An extensive view is obtained from the i/bflard, to the E., aaeended
in V4 hr. by a shady path. — The Xont de la Bauma (3770 ft.) is sealed
by a steep but well-kept path in 33/^ hrs. About fiO yds. below the summit,
to the N. , is the small OroiU d* Argent. — The Bif nal de Lare (6094 ft.),
the culminating: point of a long isolated ridge to the 8.W. of Stoteron,
commands a most extensive view, especially towards the S. ^ the aaeent
(7 hrs. •, guide) is fatiguing. We follow a road to the right of that to
Marseilles, leading to the valley of the Jabron^ cross the river 6^/9 ■•
DIGNE. IV. Route 6L 403
from the town, and aseend the ridge by the (1 hr.) Pas de la Combe, the
(I hr.) Pas des PorUs^ the 0/2 **>"•) ^* <** Madame (farm, with shelter),
and the (IVs hr.) Pat de Frire Jean, 1 hr. from the summit.
The railway now descends the right bank of the Durance, the
floods of which are often destructive. Olive-trees, frequently mistaken
for willows by northern travellers, begin to appear. — 102M. Peipin;
IO5V2 M. Chdteau-Arnoux. On the opposite bank (suspension
bridges) is Volonne, above which is a ruined castle of the 1 ith century.
At (IO8V2 M.) St. Auban (1385 ft.), at the confluence of the Dur-
ance and the BUone, we quit the line to Marseilles (p. 443) and
change carriages. — The branch-line to Digne crosses the Durance
and ascends the right bank of the Bl^one. — 112 M. Malijau In
the distance, to the right, is the Montagne de 8t, Michel-de-Coutson
(p. 404). — 117 V2 M. Mallemaiason; 120 V2 M. Champtereier.
123 M. Digne (1955 ft. ; *H6t. Boyer-Mistre; *Hdt. Remusat), the
Dinia of the Romans, a town of 7276 inhab. and the capital of the de-
partment of the BasseS'Alpea, is picturesquely situated on the Bl^one.
Like Gap, it was formerly more important than at present, but It
suffered much in the wars of religion and from the plague of 1629.
The stations of the Paris, Lyons, and Mediterranean and of the
Sud Railways adjoin each other, outside the town, on the right
bank of the Bl^one. On the opposite bank rises the large and hand-
some new Lycee. We cross the fine modern bridge near the conflu-
ence of the Bl^one with the Eaux-Chaudes (see below). In a square,
halfway down the Cov/ts or Boulevard Gassendi with its splendid
plane-trees, is a bronze statue, by Ramus, of Oassendi (1592-1655),
the philosopher and mathematician , who was born at Champtercier
(see above). — The Cathedral, mainly of the 15th cent., with a mod-
ern Gothic portal, contains a good organ-case, a statue of St. Yin-
cent de Paul, by Daumas (1869), and a 17th cent, statue of a bishop.
— Farther on the Cours passes the Mus^e, containing objects of
natural history and pictures (open on Sun. , to strangers on other
days also). — Outside the town is the Romanesque church of Notre-
Dame (12-13th cent.), with a flne nave, retaining traces of ftescoes
of the 15-16th centuries. It now serves as the chapel of the adjoin-
ing cemetery, the keeper of which has the keys.
About I8/4 M. to the E. of the town, in the valley watered by the
Torr&nt des Saux-Oha/Udes ^ is a simple JStabUsiement Thermal (omn. 50 e.).
The BasMi Alpaa are as a whole much less interesting to the tourist
than the Alps of Savoy or Dauphiny, and their exploration is still more
difficult owing to the heat of the summer, the deficiency in the means of
commanication, and the general scantiness of resources. Compared with
the basin of the Isere or with Provence, much of the scenery of the Basses
Alpes appears desolate and forbidding, while the mountains almost every-
where are bare and rugged. The new railway and the diligences men-
tioned below enable the traveller to obtain at least an idea of the char-
acter of these mountains, without an unreasonable amount of trouble.
From Dionb to Barcblokvbttb, SSVa^-t diligence (at night) in iihrs.
(fare 8 fr.). The road ascends the valley of the Bldone, passing (10 M.) La
Javie; it then crofsea the Col de Labour et (3990 ft.) and runs via (261/3 M.)
the prettily situated little town of Seyne-les- Alpes {il^inhiXi.^ Hot. des
Trois Bois)[to (iOlA.) Le Lauzei, where it joins the road mentioned at p. 374.
26*
404 IV. Route 61. ST. ANDR]fi-DE-M^OUILLES.
II. From Digne to Pnset-Thiniers (Nict).
571/2 M. Railway (Sud-Francc ^ narrow-eauge) to (271/2 M.) St. Andri-
de-MioviUes in 2 hrs. 10 min. (fares 3 fr. 70, 3 fr. 70 c). Diliobucb thenee
every morning to (dO M.) Puget- Thiniers in about 7 hrs. (fares 41/2, 6 fr. ;
inside places to be avoided). Private carriage for 1-3 pers. 20 fr. — BaihBay
thence to Nice, see pp. 487, 486. From Digne to Nice, 13 hrs. Station at
Digne, see p. 408.
The railway crosses the Bl^one and turns to the S. Beyond
(3V2 M.) Oauhert ' le- Ghaffaut the train traverses a tunnel and as-
cends across the Montagne de St, Michel- de-Cottsson (4970 ft.).
Beyond (8 M.) Mezel we skirt the Asse, in the curious Clusea de
VAsse. Tunnel (500 yds.). — 12 M. (Mabrihes; 16 M. Chaudon-
Norante. — 20 M. Barreme (2260 ft.-, Hdtel Abbes).
A diligence plies hence past (31/2 M.) Senez, the Saniiium of the Bo-
mans, now a village with an ancient Romanesque cathedral, to (I51/2 M.)
Caatellane (2634 ft. ; H6tel du Levant), a town of 1780 inhab., on the Verdon,
interesting only for its beautiful situation and some remains of fortifications.
A little lower down are the fine Oorges th$ Verdon^ the roeky walls of
which are at places 1650 ft. high.
Beyond Barreme we ascend the valley of an arm of the Asse,
which is crossed several times. — 2672 M. Moriez. The line now rap-
idly ascends and then as rapidly descends to the valley of the Verdon,
- 271/2 M. St. Andr6-de-K6oniUe8 (2980 ft. ; Hotel Trotdbas) is the
present terminus of the railway, which is to be continued to Puget-
Th^niers, by means of a tunnel, 272 M. long, through the Colle de
St. Michel (5940 ft,), between the valleys of the Verdon and the Var.
A diligence plies hence to (30 M.) Colmars and (25 M.) Alios , at the
head of the valley of the Verdon. The road runs to the N., crossing the
stream twice to avoid the Montagne de Cordoeil (6945 ft.). 71/2 M. T^orame-
i7au<e (Hotel Boux). — 30M. Colmars (4130 ft. ; B6t. Maurel), on the left bank
of the Verdon , is now a mere village with 700 inhab. , though in ancient
times fortified with two forts. It owes its name to a temple of Mars on a
neighbouring hill. Of late it has been frequented as a summer-resort. —
25 M. Alios, see p. 374.
The Road to Puoet-Th^niebs is at first identical with one lead-
ing to (10 M.) Castellane fsee above; diligence 1 fr.). It foUowa the
right bank of the Verdon to the S. , crosses the stream after 2^/^ M.,
and farther on turns to the E.. — Beyond (5 M.) St. Julien it threads
a wild defile. From (8 M.) Vergona (3380 ft.), to the S. of the Chamatte
(6166 ft.), we ascend to the Col de Vergona or de Toutea-Aurea
(3686ft.). — ii^l^M.L'Iacle. Beyond (14 M.) JRowflitw is the •C/v*
de Rouaine, one of the most beautiful gorges in this district. 17*/, M.
Les Scaffarela, 17* M. to the N. of the town of Annot (Hdt. Grac).
We then enter the valley of the Var , and cross the river by the
curious Bridge of Oueydan. — 2672 M. Entrevaoz (1660 ft. ; Hotel
Chauvin) is a town with 1390 inhab., on the left hank of the Var. It
was in ancient times a fortress, and one of the hills between which it
lies is still fortified. The town is entered by one gate only, which
no carriages are allowed to pass. The environs are pleasant.
30 M. (577, M. from Digne) Puget-Theniera , see p. 487.
V. THE EHONE VALLEY AND PROVENCE.
THE PEENCH RIVIERA.
62. From Lyons to Nimes 406
a. Yik Tarascon, on the left bank of the Rhone . . 406
b. VU Le Teil and Remoulins, on the right bank of
the Rhone 407
Lamastre- Le Gheylard. From Le Pouzin to Privas. The
Coiron. 407. — From Remoulins to TJzfcs ; to Taraa-
con, 409, 410.
c. Via Le Teil and Alais. Vals-les-Bains .... 410
Neyrac. From Vogu^ to Largentifere. Vallon. Gorge
of the Ardfeche, 411. — Les Vans. Bois de Paio-
live. Besseges. Les Fumades. From St. Julien-
de-Cassagnas to Le Martinet; to XJzes, 413. — From
Alais to L*Ardoise; to Quissae, 413.
63. Ntmes and its Environs 413
From Nimes to Aigues - Hortes, 418; to Le Vigan, 419.
— From Le Vigan to Valleraugue. The Aigoual, 420.
64. From Lyons to Marseilles by the Valley of the Rhone 420
From Vienne to Le Grand-Lemps, From St. Bambert
to Rives. From St. Vallier to Le Grand-Serre, 422. —
Ruines de Crussol. From Livron to Privas ; to Veynes,
424. — Dieulefit. From Pierrelatte to Lyons. Grig-
nan, 426. — From Orange to Garpentras and L'lsle-
sur-Sorgue, 426. — Vaison, 427. — From Tarascon to
• St. Remy (Orgon). From Miramas to Port de - Boue,
428. — From Rognac to Aix. From Pas-des-Laneiers
to Martigues, 429.
65. Avignon and its Environs 430
a. Avignon 430
Villeneuve-lfes- Avignon, 435. — From Avignon to
Orgon, 436.
b. Excursions from Avignon . 436
Fontaine de Vauduse^ 436. — Garpentras. Mont Yen-
toux, 437.
66. Aries and its Environs 438
From Aries to Salon (Hont-Maj.or ; Les Baux) ; to Lunel ;
to St. Louis- du-Rhone; to Les Saintes-Maries, 441, 442.
67. From Avignon to Aix (Marseilles) vi& Pertuis . . 442
From Gavaillon to Digne^ 442. — From Gavaillon to
Miramas (Marseilles). Gorge du Regalon, 443.
68. From Grenoble (Lyons) to Marseilles 443
Greoulx. Riez. Moustiers-Ste-Marie. FromMeyrarguesto
Draguignan, 444. — From Gardanne to Garnoules, 447.
69. MarseiUes 448
Ohilteau dlf. From Marseilles to Rognae, 457.
70. From Marseilles to V«ntimigUa (Italy) 457
I. From Marseilles to Toulon (Hyeres) 457
Gamo'ins-les-Bains, 457. — From Aubagne to Valdonne ;
Ste. Baume, 458.
26,27
408 V. Route 62, LE TEIL. From Ijyons
and one to (66 H.) Le Puy (p. 361). The latter leads via (6V4 M. from
Privas) the Roc de Gourdon (3480 ft.), the (161A M.) aigfMtl du Champ-de-
Mars (4410 ft.), two good view-points, and (43 M.) Lt MonasUer (p. 354).
About 11/2 hr. from the Signal (17 M. from Privas) is Mizilfiae (Laflfont's
Inn), a straggling village, whence a road leads to the S., via the pictur-
esque valley of the Volane , to Antraigues (9V4 M. ; p. 411) and Vals
(133/4 H. \ p. 410). — A third road crosses the Coiron to the 8. of Privas,
via Berzhme (8 M. \ 3500 ft.) and Monibrul (II1/4 M.), a hamlet with grottoes
and an extinct crater, about 3 M. from the station of St. Jean-U-Ctnienier
(p. 410).
Beyond (d4V{ M.) Baix, the line threads three tunnels. Near
(89 M.) Cruas are the picturesque ruins of an ancient fortified abbey,
whose church has two stories. Mulberry-trees abound. — 94 M.
Rochemaure (Gavard), with the imposing. ruins of a castle on a
basaltic rock. About 1^/4 M. to the W. is the extinct volcano of
Chenavari, with a basaltic causeway, known as the Pavedes Q^anU,
97 M. Le Tell (Buffet; Hdt. du Commerce), a town of 4940 in-
hab., with a ruined castle and important manufactures of hydraulic
lime and cement. The road to (3 M.) Mont^limar (p. 424; diligence
in connection with all trains, via Viviers, see below) here crosses a
suspension-bridge. Line to Alais, see p. 410. Between two tunnels
we cross the Frayol,
i02M.yiyierB-Bnr-BlLdne(AIU$fno2, near the station, mediocre), a
picturesque old town of 3414 iuhab., the former capital of the Viva'
rais, is the seat of a bishop. The Romanesque and Gothic Cathedral
is situated on a steep rock above the Rhone, within an ancient forti-
fied enclosure. Viviers contains several quaint old houses. Lime,
cement, and mosaic tiles are manufactured here. Suspension- bridge
to Ch4teauneuf-du-Rhdne (p. 425).
110 M. Boar£r-St-And6ol (Hotels), with 4265 inhab. , has a
Romanesque church of the 12th century and remains of mediaeval
fortifications. Suspension -bridge to (3 M.) Pierrelatte (p. 425). —
Beyond (116 M.) St- Just-St- Marcel we cross the Ardeche (p. 412).
120 M. Pont-aUt-Esprlt {Bechard, plain), a town of 4290 inhab.,
with a stone bridge, 920 yds. long, over the Rhone, built in 1265-
1309 by the 'Freres Pontifes' (p. 432). The CUadel (1595-1627) and
the churches of St» Satumin and St. Esprit are interesting. The
bridge leads to the station of Bollene (3 M. \ p. 425).
127 M. Bagnols-sur-Cdze (Hdt. Daudel), a town of 4500 in-
habitants. — 133 M. L'Ardoise. Line to Alais, see p. 413.
135 V'2 M. St. Oenies- Montfaucon. Montfaucon, near the Rhone,
has a fine old ch&teau. Beyond (139 M.) the little town of Roque-
ma'wre, with its cbHteau in ruins and its suspension -bridge, the
ruined castles of Lhers and Chdteauneuf- Calcemier are seen ou
the left bank. — 144 M. Villeneuve-Pujaut.
The train passes through a short tunnel to (145 M.) Pont-d' Avi-
gnon. Tramway to Avignon (p. 430). — Beyond (153 M.) Aramon
(suspension- bridge to Barbentane, p. 427) the line enters the valley
of the Oardon,
to mmes. UZES. V, Route 6^. 409
16i M. Bemonlins (Buffet ; Hotel du Nord). The Pont du Gard lies
about 2 M. to the W. (see below) , and is reached by crossing the
suspension-bridge, and then turning to the right, by the road to Lafoux
(p. 410). Carriage for 1-3 pers. , 4 fr. there and back.
The **Poiit da Osrd, spanning the Oard or Oar don at a bend
of the valley (caf^-restaurant) , is one of the most imposing monu-
ments of the Romans which remain to us. It forms part of an
aqueduct, 25^2 M. long, built to convey to Ntmes the water of two
springs in the neighbourhood of Uzes, and ascribed to Agrippa, son-
in-law of Augustus (B. C. 19). The bridge is about 880 ft. long and
160 ft. high, and is composed of three tiers of arches, each less wide
than the one below. The first two tiers consist respectively of 6 and
11 arches of equal span, the third of 35 smaller arches. The whole
is admirably constructed of large stones, and no cement has been
used except for the canal on the top. The projecting stones doubt-
less supported platforms similar to those at the aqueduct of Roque-
favour (p. 429). Visitors may ascend to the top by the hillside on
the left bank, or by a flight of steps within one of the arches at the
other end ; and traverse the structure in order to realize its dimensions.
The bridge which is carried along the first tier of arches on the E.
side dates from 1745. On the other side, about 1 M. to the right,
is the station of Pont-du-Gard (see below), on this side of which
there is a good caf^-restaurant (d^j. 2V2, D. 3 fr.).
FsoM Remoulins to Uzbs, I2V2 M., railway in 30-40 min. (fares
2 fr. 25, 1 ftr. 50 c, 1 fr.). The line at first ascends the valley of the
Gard. To the left is the Pont du Gard. — 3 M. Pont-du-Gard,
about 1 M. to the N.E. of the bridge (omn. there and back 2 fr.).
I2V2 M. TTzfts (Hotel Bechard), an ancient town ('Ucetia') of
4800 inhab., picturesquely situated ^/^ M. from the station (omn.
20 c.)- The former Cathedral (17-18th cent.) retains its Campa-
nile or Tour Fenestrelle (12th cent.) a magnificent Romanesque
relic of an earlier church, destroyed in 1611, when the bishop and
his chapter were converted to Protestantism. The tower rises in
seven stages, each pierced by arched openings. Adjacent is the
old Episcopal Palace (17th cent.), now the court-house and seat of
the Sub-Prefect. — The Hdtel de Ville, a building of the 18th cent.,
has a fine court, on the other side of which stands the Duche, or
ducal palace, dating from the 11th, 13th, 14th, and 16th cent., but
largely restored in the 19th. The most interesting features are the
keep (12th cent.), the Gothic chapel, and the remains of a tower of
the 14th century. Permission may be obtained to visit the interior,
which is, however, comparatively uninteresting. Behind the palace
is the Tour de I'Horloge, dating from the same period. The Place
auz Herbes and the Place du Puits-des-Cercles are surrounded with
old arcades.
From Uzes to Si. Julien-de-Casiagnas^ Nozibres^ and Alais^ see pp. 412, 413.
410 V. Route 62, AUBENAS. From Lyons
Beyond Remoulins we cross the Gardon. 161 M. Lafoux-les-
Bains (Hotel de la Poste), about l'/4 M. from the Pont du Gard.
From Rbmoulivs to Tabascok ^ 24 M. , railway diverging at La/oux
(see above) and reaching the left bank of the Rhone by a tunnel beyond
(18 H.) Gomps. It then joins the Kimes line , passes Beaucaire (p. 406),
and crosses the river. — 24 M. Tarascon^ see p. 427.
At (164 M.) Ortzan we join the Tarascon line (p. 407).
174 M. Mme« (p. 413).
c. yi& Le Teil and Alais. ValB-les-Bains.
188 M. Railway in 9-103/4 hrs. (fares 34 fr. 15, 23 fr. 10, 15 fr. 10 c).
- To VaU, 123 M., in 5-61/2 hrs. (fares 22 fr. 15 c, 15 fr., 9 fr. 80 c).
To (97 M.) Le Teil, see pp. 406-8. — We turn to the N.W. to-
wards the volcanic mountains of the Vivarais. The line rapidly
ascends and beyond a tunnel more than ^/2 M. long reaches (102 M.]
Auhignas-Aps. Aps (Poste), 1 M. to the S. , is the ancient Alba
Helviorum. To the left are the ruins of its massive medisval castle. —
106 M. St. Jean-le-Centenier, To Privas via Montbrul, see p. 408. —
109 V2 M. Villeneuve-de-Berg , a little town 272 M. to the S. W.,
the birthplace of Olivier de Serres (1539-1619), who introduced into
France the cultivation of the mulberry (statue). We traverse a via-
duct over the Auzon. — 11372 M. Vogue- Vals, about 1 M. to the
N. of the village of Vogue, on the right bank of the Ardeche, with
a ruined castle which belonged to the Vogu^ family.
From Vogu^ to Vals-les-Bains and Nieioles-Prades, 12 M.,
in Vi Jir- (fares 2 fr. 45, 1 fr. 45, 95 c). From (37, M.) St. Semin
a branch-line runs to Largentiere (p. 411).
6 M. Attbenas (Hot. Vigier; du Nord; St. Laurent), a town of
8224 inhab., situated on a hill, carries on a large silk-trade. The
Church (partly of the 15th cent.) contains the tomb of the Mar^chal
d'Ornano (1581-1626), favourite of Gaston d'Orl^ans, brother of
Louis XIII. In iheChdteau (13th and I6th cent.), now occupied by
the local authorities, is a statue of Olivier de Serres (see above), by
Bailly. The chapel of the ColUge (17th cent.) is handsomely de-
corated. — Electric tramway (25, 15 c.) to Vols (see below); dili-
gence to Privas (p. 407).
972 M. ValS'les' Bains-la- Begude, about 1 M. to the S. of Vals.
Vals-les-BainS. — Hotels. Gradd-Hotbl dbs Baivs, Goktimbvtal bt
DK RUSSIE (d^j. 21/2 > ^- 3 ff-)^ FavORITB, DB LYOV, DB PaBIS, DBS DiLl-
ciBusBs, on the left bank, near the Bath Establishment; Ob. Hdr. Bobbbt.
DURAVD, TeBMINUS, POSTB, DV LouVRB, DB L^EUROPB, DBS COIK)K1B0, DB LA
Juliette, in the town. — Numerous Furnished Rooms. — Caffs: dm Casino:
des Strangers; Eur opien. — Baths 2-'AfT.\ Douches 8/^-3 fr. — Com'iio, adni.
1 fr., per week 6, per month 12 fr. — Electric Tramway to the station and
thence to Aubentu (t6, 25 e.).
VaU-left- Bains is a town of 3817 inhab. , prettily situated on
the Volane, in the midst of volcanic mountains affording fine ex-
cursions. It is*chiefly celebrated for its cold mineral springs, similar
to mmes, RUOMS. V, Route 62, 411
to those of Vichy and efficacious in cases of affections of the digest-
lye organs and liver, grayel, and gout. The springs, though not
copious, are numerous, and new ones are frequently tapped. The
Madeleine spring Is among the most richly impregnated with bicar-
bonate of soda. The *Source Firmin is Intefmittent, sending up a
jet once in 2^!^ hrs. for 5 min. at a time (see the notices) to the height
of 20-25 ft. Yals has a fine Park, on both banks of the Volane.
An interesting excursion may be made a little farther up the Volane
valley, where the torrent flows between magnificent hasaltie columns,
to (41/2 M.) Antraigues (inn), whence an ascent may be made to the S.W.,
to the (1 hr.) Ceupe d'Aitac (2670 ft.), the crater of one of the volcanoes
which formed the basaltic causeways of the Vivarais. The valley is also
very interesting beyond Antraigues (to M^zilhac, see p. 406).
The railway continues to ascend the valley of the Ardeche. —
12 M. Nieigles-Prades, two villages in an interesting geological dis-
trict, with coal-mines.
About 6 M. to the W., in the valley (omnibus), are the baths of Neyrac
(Hdtel des Bains^ etc.), with warm mineral springs. — About IV4 ^- farther
on is Thueyts (inn), built upon columnar basalt and near the *Pavi des
Q4ants^ the finest basaltic causeway in the Vivarais. The latter skirts
a stream flowing to the E., below a bridge of two stories, called the P07U
du Di€U>le or La Oueule d'EnfeVy where there is a waterfall more than
dOO ft. high, usually almost dry in summer. The Pav4 va 250 ft. in height
at the Escalier du /2ot, the extremity on the left bank of the Ardeche, by
which we return to the town. A footpath leads to the N. , to the left
of the Oravenne (2770 ft.), an extinct volcano commanding a fine view, to
(il/ghr.) Montpesflt. (hotel).
From Vogue to Largbmtibsb, 11 M., railwav in 40-50 min. (fares 3 fr.,
1 fr. 35. 90 c). — Largentiire (Hdtel AfazariH)^ a picturesquely situated town
with 2472 Inhab., takes its name from its old silver-mines. It contains a
pretty church and a well-preserved old castle. — From Largentiere a
diligence runs to the W. via (5 M.) Rocles (inn) to (11 M.) Valgorge (inn),
a straggling village in the valley of the Baume. To the TS. rises the Ta-
nargua (498(J ft.) , a ramification of the Oevennes terminating in a plateau,
the B. extremity of which, the Orand- Tan argue (4725 ft.), commands a fine
view, extending as far as Mont Blanc. An interesting excursion of 4 hrs.
may be made to the Signal de Ooucoulude (4750 ft.), to the W., returning
via the Grand-Tanargue. — A road connects Valgorge with the La Batiide
station (p. 368*, 24 M.).
Beyond Vogu^ the line to Alais descends the valley of the Ar-
deche. — 117 M. Balazuc. — 121 M. Bnomn ( Hdt. Theodore), a
town consisting of two portions, the more ancient retaining relics
of its old fortifications, with the towers converted into houses.
A diligence plies from Buoms to Vallon (ffdt. du Louvre)^ a little town
to the S.E. (51/2 M. ; 76 c), about 1/2 M. from the left bank of the Ardeche.
H. Oilier de Marichard possesses an interesting collection of prehistoric
objects found in the caves of the neighbourhood. — The *Gorge of the
Ard&ehe is very interesting downstream, where it is bordered by pictur-
esque rocks, ^00-900 ft. high, with numerous grottoes. The finest part,
below the Pont d'Arc, can be explored by boat only, but there is a pictur-
esque road as far as (1 hr.) the bridge, where boats may be hired for
the deseent to St. Martin-d' Ardeche (ea. 6 hrs. ; about 25 fr. for 1-6 pers. ^
bargain necessary). The *Pont d'Aro, an arch 215 ft. high and 190 ft. wide,
said to be the largest natural bridge known (inn), should be viewed from
both sides. — The river follows a meandering course, with exciting rapids,
etc., but with experienced boatmen there is no danger. Nearly 6 hrs.
412 V. Houte 62, ALAIS.
from Yallon is the remarkable GroUe de St. Marcel-d^Ardlehe^ the former
bed of a snbterranean river, aceessible for a distance of over 3000 yds. —
Near St. Martin is the picturesque spot known as Aigukte^ with an old
manor-house. — 8t. MarHm-d'Araiehe (Hotel Castanier), on the right bank,
is 31/2 H. from 8t-Ju8t-St>Marcel (p. 408), the nearest station, and 5i/s H.
from Pont St. Esprit.
Above Ruoms the valley of the Ard^che forms the curious Deiile of
Ruonu; and a little farther up, in the direction of Largenti&re (p. 411), is
the picturesque VaUeff of the lAgne.
Beyond Ruoms we cross the Ardeche, and then, quitting this
river , we ascend for a time the valley of the Chassezac, one of its
affluents. ~ 125 M. Orospierres. — 129V2 M. Beaulieu-Berrioi.
A diligence (1 fr.) plies hence to (7 M.) Lea Vans (Edtel Dcwdaillon^
good), an old and small town, to the N., with remains of ramparts. From
Les Vans or from St. Paul (see below) a visit (with guide ; Benj. Miguel^
who lives near the road , 21/2 M. on this side of Le Vans) may be made
to the *BoiB de Pa'iolive. This contains rocks of exceedingly picturesque
and wild appearance, but is now quite eclipsed by Montpellier-Ie-Vieux
(p. 266). The visit requires fully half-a-day.
135 M. St. Paul'le-Jeune, Beyond a tunnel, more than 7? ^*
long, we reach (I38V2 M.) OagnUreit. We cross the Oagnieres and,
heyond a tunnel, the Ceze. To the left is the ruined Chateau de
CastUlon, — 140 M. llohioAi (3290 Inhab.), with a ruined castle.
A branch-line runs hence to (SVa M.) Bemftges (IMiel du Commerce)^ a
town with 7963 inhab., on the Cfese, the centre of an important coal-field.
The line now turns to the S.E. into the Ceze valley, which is in
parts highly picturesque. On a hill to the right is the Chdteau de
Montalet. 142 M. Molieres-sur-Ceze, with 2666 inhabitants.
146 M. St. Ambroiz (Hotel Fenn; Hot, du Luxembourg) , a
picturesque manufacturing town (3300 inhab.), with a ruined castle
(view), an ancient tower, and some handsome modem buildings. - -
149 M. St. Julien-de~Cassagna8^ on two railways.
About 3 H. to the S. £. of St. Julien is Lm Fmnadaa (UoteU)^ with bitu-
minous and other cold mineral waters, used for skin and chest diseases.
Roman antiquities have been found near the springs. Among the attrnet-
ive walks in the neighbourhood is that to the £. to the Deftl* of the
ArgentoU^ a little river descending from the well-wooded and rocky
amphitheatre of the Serve du Bouquet (2070 ft.). We may descend on the
S.E. to the station of (1 hr.) Brouxet^ on the Alais and L'Ardoise line
(p. 413), and thence reach Alais by rail.
FaoM St. Juliev-db-Gassagvas to Lb Maetivbt, 7 H., railway in
1/2 hr. Le Martinet has mines of antimony.
Froh St. Julibh-db-Cassaoias to Usiks, 24 H., railway in 1 hr. —
At (51/3 M.) C^Ia« this line crosses the Alais andL'Ardoise railway (p. 413).
— 121/2 H. EuBet-les-Baina (Hotel; Maisons Meublies) has six sulphurous
and ferruginous springs. — 21 H. Montaren^ with an old castle. — 24 M.
UxHy see p. 409.
1 58 M. Alais CBu/fe^; Hotel du Luxembourg; Larnaude), to the
right, a town of 24,382 inhab., on the left bank of the Oardon, is the
centre of an important coal-field, and carries on an extensive trade
in silk, glass, bricks, and tiles. In the Place St. S^bastien, to the
right of the Avenue de la Gare, is a bronze statue, by G. Pech, of
the celebrated chemist J. B. Dumas (1800-1884); in the Place de
laK^publique, on the bank of theGardon, is a Monttmentto Florian
NtMES. r. Route 63, 413
(1755-94), the noTelist; and in the Baquet, or public garden, is a
bust of La Fare-Alais (1791-1846), the Cevendle poet. Near the old
CV/adef (now barraeks and a prison) is a bronze Monument to Pasteur
(1822-95), by Tony Noel; the famous chemist first made himself
known to fame by the studies he made at Alals of the maladies of
the silk-worm.
From Alais a branch-line runs in 3-28/4 hrs. to (361/2 M.) VArdoue
(p. 408), starting from a special station to the E. of the town, Va K> from
the principal station. — Another line runs from Alais to (iSi/a M.) Quinac
(p. 419), via (61/2 H.) Mas de$- Gar dies (see below) and (IQi/s M.) Legan^ the
) unction for Anduze (H3t. Bechard). — From Alais to Clermont-Ferrand^
see R. 40.
iQiU, St, HUaire; 164Vt M. Maa-des-Oardies. Branch-line to
Quissac, see above. — I66V2M. Vezenohres; 167 M. Nera, To the
right is a 12th cent. keep. 170 M. Boucoiran, From (171 Vt M.)
Nozieres a branch-line runs to Uzes (p. 409). 173 M. St. 0/nih;
ill M. Fona; 182 M. Maa-de-Ponge. Farther on, to the right, is the
Tour Magne (p. 416), on a hill which we penetrate by a tunnel. Our
line joins those via Tarascon and vi& Remoulins (KR. 62 a, 62 b),
and the train backs into the station. — 188 M. Nimea (buflfet).
63. Nlmes and its Environt.
The Railway Station (PI. B, 6) Is on the Boulevards to the S.E. of
the town. The local railway to Aries (p. 443) has a special terminus (Oare
de la Ccmargueyy to the S. of PI. A, 8,6.
Hotala. *HoTBL du Luxembourg (PL a; E, 4), on the Esplanade, R. from
3, B. iVa» dcj. 3, D. 4, pen8.11V2-13l/2 fr.', HSt. du Midi (PI. b-, E, 3),
Square de la Gouronne ; Makivbt (PI. e \ C, 3), Boulevard Victor Hugo, near
theMaison Garree*, *Ghbval-Bladg (PI. d; D, 4), Place des Arenes, R. 21/3,
B. 11/4, d^j. 3, D.31/2 fr.-, DB l'Europb (PI. e; E, 3), Square de la Gouronne;
DBS CoLOKiBS (PI. f; D, 4), Avenue Feucheres 4, R. from 2, B. I/9-I, d6j.
31/3, D. 3 fr. ; DB l^Univbrs, Boul. des Arenes ; Hbkabd, Boul. Gourbet.
Oafis* Pehux^ on the Esplanade, with restaurant, ddj. 4, D. 5 fr. ;
Tortoni^ Franfais^ Boul. Amiral Gourbet j Qrand Cafi de la Bourse^ Boul.
Victor Hugo, near the Arena; C. de VUniverSy C. de Parity near the Maison
Garree; G. dei Fleurs^ near the station, d^j. 31/a, D. 3 fr.
Oaba for four persons : by day , per drive 3/4 (i fr. if first brought
from the stand to a house), per hr. l>/4 fr- \ by night, lV4-i V2') and 3 fr. ;
to the Tour Magne, IVs fr. and rate per hr. for the return if the cab be
kept; drive in the environs, according to bargain.
XLeotrio Tramways (comp. Plan). From the station to the Esplanade
and round the the inner town via the boulevards, ^cdt^ gauche^ and ^eote
droit^ ; from the Square de la Gouronne (PI. D, E, 3, 4) to the Octroi de Mont-
pellier (beyond PI. B, 5) and to the Artillery Barracks (PI. 0, 1) Fare 10 c,
with correspoudanee 15 e. Tram-Omnibuses ruq in various other directions.
Foat and Telegraph Offioe (Pl.E, 3), Square de la Gouronne.
Proteatant Ohurohea. Grand Temple (Pi. E, 3), Place du Grand Temple;
Petit TempU (PI. 0, 3), Rue des Flottes. — Synag opie (PI. E, 4), Rue Roussy 40.
Baths. Oarcin^ Ruelle des Saintes Maries 2 and Rue Pav^e 3 ; Birard
(PI. F,3), Rue Nbtre-Dame 36, with swimming-bath; Baime du Louvre^
Square de la Gouronne and Rue Monjardin 66.
mmea, a town of 80,355 inhab. (including about 20,000 Pro-
testants), is the capital of the department of the Qard and the seat of
a bishopric and of a Calvinistic consistory. It lies at the S. eztrem'
414 F. Route 63, ^tfSJ&S. Amphitheatre,
ity of a chain of hilU Joining the C^vennes, and is much expo&ftd
to wind and dust. The city haflflne houlevards and modern quarters,
and it contains more monuments of antiquity than any other town
in France. Nlmes is also an important industrial centre, especially
for silk -goods, and carries on a large trade in wine and spirits.
Ntmaiuut^ the capital of the Voleee Arecomici, submitted to the
Romans in B. G. 121 and beeame one of their principal colonies in Gaul.
They took a delight in embellishing it, and it had its e&pitol, temples to
Augustus and Apollo, basilica, theatre, circus, amphitheatre, thermae,
an aqueduct, of which the famous Pont du Gard (p. 409) is a relic, an
extensive line of rainparts, a forum, a Campus Martius, etc. It waa pillaged
by the Vandals in 4u7, and for some time it belonged to the Visigoths,
then to the Saracens, and afterwards to the Counts of Toulouse. Three-
fourths of its inhabitants having embraced Protestantism, it suffered much
duriniT the Warp of Religion , until 1704 , or the end of the C^venses
(Camisard) insurrection, provoked by the Revocation of the Edict of
Nantes (1685) and the rigours which followed. The political passions
of its people were not less earnest than their religious convietions, and
the reaction of 1815 was earned farther at Ntmes than at Toulouse,
Avignon, or Marseilles*, and for four months the town was at the mercy
of banditti Who committed every kind of excess and atrocity against the
Protestants. -^ Nimes is the birthplace of Nieot, who introduced tobaeen
into France in 1564, of Guiaot (n&7-i874), of the poet Reboul (1796-1864), and
of Alphonse Daudet, the author (1840-97).
The Station (PI. E, 5) stands on a viaduct, in front of which is
a Bust of P. Talabotj eommemoYatIng ihe eonstiaction of the first
railway in this district (1837). We enter the town by the magnificent
Avenue FeuclUrts, which leads to the Esplanade (PL D, 4) , a fine
square, to the left of which is the Amphitheatre (see below). In the
middle of this square is a monumental Fountain^ embellished with
five statues by Pradier. To the N.W. of the square is the Falait dt
Justice (PI. I), 4), a modern building with a fine Corinthian colon-
nade. — To the S.W. of the Esplanade is a bronze bast, by Amy, of
P. SoleUlet (1842-86), the Afirican traveller.
The ancient ^Amphitheatre {Les Arenes; PI. G, D, 4) forms an
ellipse 145 yds. long by 1 11 yds. wide, and 69 ft. In height. It is there-
fore smaller than those of Rome, Capua, Verona, and even Aries (p.4d8),
but its exterior is in better preservation than that of any of these.
It is constructed of stones 6-10 ft. cube, perfectly adjusted without
mortar, like all Roman buildings of a large size. The exterior presents
two stories, each of 60 arches, the lower having huge square buttremes,
the upper Doric columns, while above is an attic story with 130 projecting
stones pierced with holes, in which the masts of the awning which covered
the amphitheatre were inserted. — There were four external gateways,
at the extremities of the axes*, visitors enter by the one opposite the
Palais de Justice (gratuity). The solid mass of the building is 105 ft. in
thickness. There were 35 rows of seats, divided into four tiers, th« first
intended for persons of rank, the second for knights, the third for the
plebeians, and the fourth for slaves. While 34,000 speetators could be ac-
commodated, 134 vomitories afforded rapid egress to thia multitude. The
tiers and passages were ao constructed as to lei the rain flow off into an
aqueduct at the bottom, so as to be ready for use when the arena waa re-
quired to be inundated for sea-fights or naumachlee. (3ombats with wild
beasts cannot have been held in this amphitheatre, as the wall bdnndin^
the arana Is too low. Bull-fights in the Spanish style Ceorrlda de muerte')
are now frequently held here in summer (seats 1V4-0 tr.). The eonstruetion
MaiBon Carr/e, NlMES. F. R&wte 63. 416
of the amphitheaire of Nimea dates from the lflt-2nd cent, of onr era^ and
it was also, like thai of Aries, transformed into a fortress in the middle
ages, and afterwards occupied by hovels, of which it was not freed till
1809. A restoration was begun in 1868 and another in 1899.
The Boulevard Victor Hugo leads hence to the N.W., passing,
to the left, the Lto#b (PI. C,3-4), a large hlock of buildings formerly
used as a hospita] and provided with a handsome turret.
Farther on on the same side is St. Paul (PI. C, 3), a Romanesque
church, built by Questel in 1838-49. It co^ntains some fine frescoes
by HippolytB and FmU Flandrin.
The **1Iai8on Oarr6e (PI. G,!2, 3), one of the finest and best pre-
served Roman temples anywhere extant, forms a parallelogram, 76 ft.
long, 40 ft. wide, and 40 ft. high , with 30 Corinthian columns , 20
of which are attached to the walls of the cella. It is thus a pseudo-
peripteral temple , prostyle and hexastyle , i. e. it has a portico on
the front only, consisting of six columns It is approached by 15
ftteps. The columns are fluted and are surmounted by capitals of
admirable workmanship. The entablature is very rich , and of ex-
qaisite taste , like the rest. It has not been positively determined
to wh<ilm this temple was dedicated or at what period it was built. It
was at first held to date from the time of Augustus, but its style seems
rather to belong to the time of the Antonines, i. e. to the 2nd century.
It was probably situated in the forum , with other buildings , the
foundations of which are visible on both sides. Successively used
as a church, a municipal hall, a warehouse, and a stable, this magni-
ficent building has been well restored, since 1824. Around it lie frag-
ments of the huge pediment of a basilica and other ancient remains.
The interior at present contains the Municipal Collection of Antiquities
(open to the public daily, 8-11.30 and 12.30 to 4, 5, or 6). In the vestibule are
two large antique amphorae. — In the hall, opposite the entrance, is the
*Bronze Head of a youth (idealized portrait-head of the Hellenistic period,
originally crowned with a diadem), between two Greek bronze vases. Be-
hind are an antique mosaic pavement, a statue of Venus (^Venus of Ktmes*),
of no great merit, several statuettes, a bearded head of a god upon a modern
bust, and, to the left, a good Venus torso. The glass-cases in the middle
and by the walls contain a collection of coins. In the cabinets are vases,
glass vessels, small bronzes and sculptures, terracottas, etc. In the second
large cabinet to the Ibft area bron-ise stat«ette of the Gallie Jupiter, bearded,
in a sleeved coat and breeches, and an early Greek vase-handle.
The Theatre (PI. C, 2, 3), on the other side of the boulevai'd, is
a poor modern building, serving as a foil to the beauty of the Mai-
son Carrie. In the Place d'Assas, farther on, to the left, is a
War Monument for 1870-71, erected in 1902. At the end of the
Boulevard Alphonse Daudet is a square embellished with a marble
Statue of Antoninus Pius, (PI. C, 2), by Bosc (1874). The father of
the emperor was a native of Ntmes, — To the right is the Boulevard
Gambetta, bounding the old town on this side.
We turn to the left, on this side of a canal, and in 5 min. reach
the Jardin de la Fontaine (Pl.B, 2), situated at the end of the wide
Boulevard de la R^publique. The garden (small caf^) is a fine prom-
enade, which owes its name to the Fontaine de Nimes, a little
416 V. R<mte 63, nIMES. Cathtdral.
farther on. The garden is decorated in the 18th cent, taste , but is
in part laid out on ancient foundations. It contains , to the right,
a Statue of Reboul (p. 414), by Bosc.
The so-called Temple of Diana (PI. A, 2), to the left of the
Fontaine ) was more probably a Kymphaeum connected with the
Therms , of which there are some remains close by. The facade
still shows three arches, and the interior consists of a large hall
and two passages, the hall haying a stone vault, partly fallen in,
and niches for statues. It contains architectural fragments of no
great interest (gratuity). The remains of buildings behind are sup-
posed, to belong to the reservoir of the aqueduct, and may be seen
from the path which ascends the hill on the left.
Behind the Fontaine is the Mont Cavalier (375 ft.), with alleys
affording pleasant promenades. The Tour Mafl^e (PI. B, 1), which
occupies the summit, is an imposing octagonal Roman ruin, being
still 90 ft. high. It was probably a mausoleum, but it has passed for
a public treasury, a beacon, a signal tower, etc. A staircase affords
access to the top, which commands an admirable *Yiew. The keeper
lives in the red house, a little below the tower.
In the neighbouring Protestamt Cemetery is a statue of Immortality,
by Pradier (against the wall to the right).
We now return to St. Paul's Church (p. 415) and follow the Rue de
la Madeleine to the Cathedral (St. Castor; PI. D, 3). This is supposed
to have been built on the ruins of a teniple dedicated to Augustus, but
it has been rebuilt and restored several times. The facade has a very
curious frieze of the ll-12th cent., with scenes from the Book of
Genesis (beginning to the left). The Interior, recently restored, con-
sists of a wide Romanesque nave, having at the sides, between the
pillars, small chapels without windows and, above, fine galleries,
which extend even round the choir. In the 1st chapel to the left is a
Baptism of Christ by Sigalon. The 3rd chapel on the right has a
mutilated Christian sarcophagus for its altar; the modern paintings
are by Dote.
A little farther on in the same direction are the Grand Temple
(PI. £, 3) and the Boulevard Amiral Courbet. — Beyond the Temple,
to the N., is the Porte d'Auguste (PL E, 2), a remnant of the Roman
fortifications, built, according to the inscription in B. C. 16, in the
reign of Augustus. It consists of two large and two small archways. —
The richly decorated Gothic church of St. Baudile (P1.E,2), opposite
the Porte d'Auguste, was built in 1870-75.
On the right of the boulevard, as we return towards the Esplan-
ade, is the Xcole des Beanz-Arts (Pl.D, E,^, with a handsome
facade (1894) adorned with statues of Painting and Music. It was
formerly a Jesuit college, and the chapel still stands on the other side.
This building contains several Colleotions, open daily from 1 to
4 or 5 (entr. at the back, in the Grande Rue).
In the eourt is the Jfntie Lapidaire (catalogue lent by the custodian),
containing inscriptions of Neinausns, architectural fragmeatt, and a few
Picture OaUery, NiMES. V. Route 63, 417
sculptures. -~ On the first floor, to the left, are » CoUecHwi^ of CcuU^ from
chnrehes in Provenee, models and sketches of ancient buildings , ete. —
To the right and in the two upper stories is a rich and well-arranged Ifat-
ttrai HUtory Collection.
The Public Library (70,000 vols, and 350 MS8.) is also installed in the
old college. It is open daily, 9-12 and 2-5; in winter also 8-10 p. m.
The Square de la Gouronne (PL E, 3), to the left, near the end
of the boaleTard, is embellished with a statue of Alphonae Daudet
(p. 414), by Falguiere. — The Church of Ste. Perp6tiie (PI. E, 4) , on
the E. side of the Esplanade, Is an interesting modern structure by
FeucfUres (1852-64), in a Gothic style, characterized by stilted arches.
The Picture Gallery {Mua^e de Peinture; PI. D, 5), to the S. of
the Amphitheatre, is open to the public daily, 9-12 and 1 to 4 or 5.
Vbstibulb. No. 1. Briant, Bust of Sigalon, the painter; 13. L. Moric€^
Rosa Hystica.
GaVTSAL Room. Sculptures: 8. X«p^«, Lyssia; 10. Leroux^ Mother and
Child; 38. h^Jalbert, Hippomenes; •IS. Pradier, Light Poetry; 6. Franceschi^
The Awakening. '— Paintings : 226. Lelwux^ Martyrdom of fit. Lawrence ;
328. Schommer^ Edith finding the body of Harold after the Battle of Hastings ;
396. Leenhardty Murder in the Yillage.
First Boom to thb lbft. To the right, 135. Van Dyeky Dancing
children; 348. Rubens, Holy Family; 334. Franck, The Brazen Serjpent; 245.
Bobbema^ Landscape; 44. Frandt, Josabeth saring Joash; 95, 83. Sigalon,
Rigaud, Portraits ; 148. Ragman^ Landscape ; *37. P. Delaroehe, Cromwell
opening the coffin of Charles I.; 182. GarofdloO\ Virgin; 213. Berchem,
Landscape: 136. Van Dyck{^)y Portrait of a French marshal; 93. Sigalon,
Portrait ; 14. Fr. Boucher, Landscape ; 189. Van Dyck (?), Prince Rupert; 171.
Guerdnc, Death and Dido; 100. De Troy, Sleeping reaper; 327. After Jan
SUen, Oyster-feast; 170. 0. Poutiin, Landscape; 34. J. B. Comeille, Ste.
Geneyi^Te of Paris. — 146. Mierevelt, Portrait of a magistrate ; LargiUiire,
63. Portrait of a masistrate, 63. Duke of Berwick ; 76. Parrocel, Imma-
culate Conception; 61. Largillihre, Marshal de Villars; 54. Jalabert (of
Nimes), Horace, Virgil, and Varus at the house ofMeecenas; 74. Natoire,
Banquet of Cleopatra and Antony ; 71. P. Mignard, Portrait of a magistrate ;
82. Rigaud, Marshal Turenne; 67. C. Lefivre, Fall of Lucifer; 45. Oendron,
Druidic sacrifice; 177. Tintoretto, Martyrdom of 8t. Agnes; 186. Viani, Vision
of St. Francis; 318. Oarofalo, Madonna and Child; 319. N. Potutin, Christ
and the Samaritan Woman; 175. Guido^ Mary Magdalen: 178. Salv. Rosa,
169. O. Poussin, Landscapes; *183. Titian, Madonna and Cnild with saints;
394. /. Sdttes, J. Cavalier, leader of the Camisards (p. 414), and Marshal
Villars; 135. Netffs, Interior of a cathedral; 68. C. Vanloo, The artist's
mother; 176. Ouido, Judith; 90. Sigalon, Locusta testing a poison; *69.
0. Vmioo, Portrait of the artist; 82. Rigaud, 313. Rubens {7), Portraits;
159. Weenix, Poultry; 96. Smith, Dream of Athaliah; 153. Rubens, Young
girl; 137. Van Dyck, Portrait: 15. Boucher, Training of a dog; 186. TUian,
Portrait of the artist (?); l74. II Calabrese, Jesus among the doctors;
104. Verdier, Man between two ages; 105. Jos. Vemei, Sea-piece; Bras-
cassat, 353. Roman Campagna, 353. Cow; 344. Rubens, Holy Family;
Sehut, 157. Banks of the Rhine, 158. Landscape: 155. Jac. Ruysdael,
Landscape. — In the middle of the room; 29. Delaplanche, Sleeping
vroman (plaster).
The Sbcond Room to thb Lbft contains over 400 uncataloeued paint-
ings (many copiea), chiefly of the Flemish and Dutch schools^ bequeathed
to the town by an Englishman named Gower. Among these may be men-
tioned (from right to left): 133. Tenters, Woman Spinning; 3'23. Unknovm
Master, Lucretia Borgia; 8. Berchem, Horseman, herdsman, and hunter;
58, 13. P. Potter (?), Cattle^ 119. Retnbrandt (?), Portrait; 150. /. StsM, Woman
with a glass of wine; 67. De Koninck, Tavern - scene ; 30, Claude Lorrain,
Sea-piece'; some good Madonnas of the Italian school.
Baedeker. Southern France. 4th Edit. ^7
418 V, Route 63, AIGUES-MORTES. Eorcurtiotit
Thibd Rooh to thb Lbft. H^graTings, baste, and Bmall bronzes.
FiBST Boom to thb Bight (on the other aide of Ihe Central Boom).
In the middle is a large ^Ancient MoMic, the chief su^eet of whieh is
the marriage of Admetus and Alcestis. — Paintings. To the rif^t: 88.
Adelaide Salles- Wagner , Legend of the Aliseankps; 17S. Oiordanoy Uape of
Dejaneira; 33. Cordowan, Sea - piece ^ 78-80. Reinaud Levieux^ Scenes from
the life of John the Baptist^ 64. /. Laurens ^ Storm; 275. Brillouiny The
host's portrait; 43. Ferrier^ David and aoliath; 306. Btsnetrd, Episode
in an invasion in the Middle Ages; 381. Le Oamut^ Banks of the Seine at
Aude. — 202. Carabain, Street at Verona \ 22. Cabat^ Hunt; 2 'B. Colin (Himes),
Mare de Guevine ; i&l. Blanc^ Perseus on Pegasus \ 293. MoHite^ In the
sun; 377. Sain^ Winter in Prorenee (environs of Avignon); 366. OMm,
The Bochers du Plan ; 27. HierUy Copy of Titian's EntoBftbwent.
The Sallb db Chazbllbs-Chuscl'ak (second to the right) contains a
valuable collection of Engravings^ three handsome Sevres vases, five auto-
graphs of Voltaire, a mosaic table, and 28 volumes remarkable for their
importance, rarity, or binding.
The Sallb db Salles-Waodbr contains the mediocre works of M.
Salles (Kos. 55-103) and his wife (1-54), and also their portraits (33, 39).
The Rue Boirrdaloue, on the N. of the Mus^e, leads to the W. to
a small square, in which is the Porte de France (PI. C, 4), a relic
of the Roman enceinte. It is a single arch. The Rue de Montpellier,
before the Porte, to the right, leads back to the Amphitheatre.
The excursion to the Poi^ du Oard (p. 4D9) is more conveniently aiade
by railway than by carriage (i3i/si M.). — From Nimes to AHes^ tae
p. 442; to Marseilles^ see BB. 63a, 64; to MonipeUier and to C«Me, see B. 4t ;
to Clermont-Ferrand^ see B. 40.
Fbom NImes to Aigdes-Mobtes, 25 M., railway in lVi-l'/4 hr.
(fares 4 fr. 50 c, 3 fr., 1 fr. 95 c). — 2Vt M. St. Ceaaire (p. 269). ~
13 V2 M. Vnuvert, a town of 4375 inhab. ; 15 Va M. Le CaUar{^. 442) ;
16*/j M. Aimargues (Cheyal Blanc, plain); 20 M. St. Laurent-
d'Aigouze^ heyond which, on the left, appears the 13th cent. Tour
Carbonni^re.
25 M. Aignes-Xortes (Hotel St. Louis, well spoken of, d^j. 3,
D. 3^/2 fr- j ^ ^« Macreuse; Fayn), a town of 3900 iuhab., situ-
ated near a number of ponds and marshes and on four navigable
canals, connecting it with the sea (SV^ M.), the Rhone (Beaucaire),
and the salt lagoons. The chief of these ponds, to which the town
owes its ominous name, is the Etang de la Ville et du Roi. Aigues-
Mortes was founded in 1246 by St. Louis, who ra:ibarked here for
his two crusades in 1248 and 1270. His son, PhUip the Bold,
began in 1272 to surround it with **Fobtification8, which are now
among the chief curiosities of France. These are, perhaps, superior
even to the fortifications of Carcassonne and of Avignon (p. 431),
inasmuch as they are uniform in style and date from one single
epoch ; but they are inferior in being placed on level ground instead
of on a conspicuous hill, while much of their picturesqueness has
been ruined by restoration. The works form a rectangle, 600 yds.
long by 150 yds. broad, with embattled walls, 25-33 It. high,
20 towers, some square and others round, and 10 gates. The only
alterations have been the adaptation of the embrasures to fire-arms
and the filling up of the moat. At the N, W. an^le is « «ort o| ciUdel,
ffwn mme^. LE VIGAN. V, Rmte 63, 419
with the Toftf de Constance, begnn by St. Louis. Together Tvith the
watch-turret surmounting it, this tower is 90-95 ft. high by 65-70 ft.
in diameter, and its walls are 17-18 ft. thick. It served as a prison
for many Protestants after the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes.
The Tour dts Bourguignons , to the S.W., served as a tomb for
the Burgundians who seized the town in 1421, but were afterwards
massacred by the royal troops and thrown into this tower, their
bodies being covered with heaps of salt. Permission to ascend the
towers and make the interesting circuit of the ramparts may be
obtained from the custodian, to the left of the entrance from the
town. — The town itself is almost devoid of interest. In the public
square is a Statue o/ St. Louis, in bronze, by Pradier. The neigh-
bourhood is interesting, and is planted with vineyards, which can
be placed under water by mnaiis of fire-pumps. On the coast is
Orau du Roi (hotels), a much-frequented watering-place.
Fbom NImbs to Le Vigan (Aigoual; Tournemire)^ 58 M., rail-
way in 3V4-3V4 ^rs. (fares 10 ft. 40, 7 fr. 5, 4 fr. 60 c.). Beyond
(2^2 M.) St. Cesaire (p. 418) we traverse the fertile plain of the
Vaunage. — 18 M. Soramidres {Buffet; Hotels)^ an ancient town on
the Vidourle, with 3740 inhab., the remains of a Roman bridge
(beneath the modern structure), and a ruined castle. Branch-lines
to Lunel and Montpellier, see pp. 269, 274. — 31 M. Quissac (buffet).
Branch-line to Alais, see p. 413. — 40 M. St. Hippolyte-du-Fort
(Cheval Blanc), with 4446 inhab., has remains of ancient fortifi-
cations. — 48 M. Ganges (Croix • Blanche) , with 4300 inhab.,
about V2 ^* to ^b® S.W., is an important centre of the silk and
cotton industries.
About 21/2-3 M. to the 8.E. ip the large and beautiful Orotte des Doumi-
selles or de* Fdet^ with magnificent stalactites and a chamber 150ft. high.
The Tiait to the grotto is difficult, eapecially for ladies, and expensive,
83 5 fr. is paid for admission and at least W fr. it said to be necessary
for torches, Bengal lights, etc. — Excursions may be made from Ganges,
to the S."W., to the gorges of the Vis and the plateau of the Larxac (p. 259),
and to tibe K., to the Valley* of Sumitte (see below) and the liiratiU.
51 M. Sumtoe (Rose) is another small manufacturing town. At
(54 M.) Pont-d^ Herault we cross the Herault,
58 M. Le Vigan (735 ft. ; ffdt. des Voyageurs , Hot. du Midi,
both unpretending), a town of 5200 inhab., on the Arre, in a
piciar«9que district, has hosiery and silk factories, and coal-mines.
The town has few features of interest, but is a good centre for ex-
cursions, especially since the opening of the railway to Toumemire
(see below). The old Gothic Bridge, a bronze Statue of the Che-
valier d'Assas (d. 1760), and the bronze Statue of Sergeant Triaire
(d.l799), who blew up the fort of El-Arish (Egypt), are noteworthy. —
About IV4 M. to the S.W. (omn. in the season) are the Bains de
Cauvalat.
Aq. intereating excursion may be made from Le Vigan to the N. to
the Aigouft}, whence we piay proceed to the C»u*se» (p. 260). The new I
420 V. Route 64. VIENNE. From Lyon$
direet road (26 M.) Ti& (21/3 M.) AuIm, (6 M.) ArpAy> the (13 H.) Baroque
de Bibot^ to the S.W. of the Moniagne d'Aula* (4665 ft.), and La aireyrhie
(see below) is usually chosen for the deseent on account of the view. The
ascent is made from (171/2 M.) Valleraugue, reached by public conveyance
either direct from Le Vigan (Ql/o H.) or from the station of Pont-d'Herault
(see p. 419). — Yalleraugue (1195 ft. ^ HOt. Bourbon)^ a little town on the
H^rault, was the birthplace of /. L. A. de Quatrefages (1810-93), tha natural-
ist, and of General Perrier (1838-8^, both of whom are commemorated
by monuments here. — The road winds uphill (short-cuts for walkers) to
(131/a H.) La Sireyride^ a pass whence the ascent may be made in about
IV2 111'., to the E.lf.E., then to the E. to the top. The Aigonal or Signal
de la Hort-Dieu (5140 ft.) is the principal summit of the Gevennea on this
side of Hont Loxere and affords a very fine panorama, eompriaing the
S. part of this chain, the Rhone valley, Hont Ventoux, and the Maritime
Alps to the E., and the Mediterranean, E. Pyrenees, and plains of Lan-
guedoc to the W. An observatory and a refuge -hut have been built on
the summit. We may descend to Meyruei* (p. S67) in SVs-Shra.
From Zi« Vigan to Toumemire^ see p. 259.
64. From Lyons to Marseilles by the Valley of
the Rhone.
2181 /a M. Railway in 51/4-llVa hrs. (fares 39 fr. 50, 26 fr. 70, 17 fr. 45 c.).
From Lyon$ to Avignon^ 143 M., in 3Va'7V2 hra. (fares 35 fr. 95, 17 fr. 55,
11 fr. 50 c). — The route from Lyons to Marseilles via Grenoble^ 265 M., in
14-148/4 hrs. (fares 47 fr. 80, 32 fr. 90, 21 fr. 10 c), is preferable in summer.
Avignon may also be reached from Lyons via the right bank of the
Rhone, in which case the traveller books to Pont d"* Avignon (p. 406), l^M.,
in 51/3-78/4 hrs. (26 fr. 40, 17 fr. 85, 11 fr. 70 0.). See R. 6*2 b.
The descent of the Rhone may also be made by steamer (p. 239),
leaving Lyons on Wed. and Sat. (in winter on Frid.) at 6 a. m., reaching
Avignon about 6 p. m. , starting next day at 6 a. m. and reaching Mar-
seilles about midday. As far as Avignon the scenery of the Rhone is
not uninteresting. The hills on the right bank, with their ruined castles,
recall the scenery of the Rhine.
Lyons, see p. 227. — The trains start from the Gare de Perrache.
We cross the Rhone and skirt its left bank, more or less closely,
all the way to Avignon. — 3 M. St. Fons; 6V4M. Feyzin; 9^/^}A.
Serezin. From (13 M.) Chasse (Caf^ des Voyageurs) a junction-line
crosses the Rhone to (2 M.) Qivors (p. 243).
The town of Yienne appears in the distance, to the right, before
we reach (18 M.) Estressin, Beyond a short tunnel we cross the Gere
and traverse a second tunnel, ^/^ M. long, under the town itself.
lOVsM. Vieane. -^ Hotels. H6tbl du Nobd, Place de Miremont
d^. 3fr.; Hot. ds la Postb, (Tours Romestang 15, d^j. 2i/s fr. — Oaifa,
Be la Terr€U8ef Gours Romestang; Joubtrty near the station ; others in the
Place de Miremont. — Post Office^ Rue de la Halle.
Vienne, a busy Industrial town with 25,000 inhab. , is pictur-
esquely situated at the confluence of the Rhone and the Gere, on
the side of a hill surrounded by mountains.
Vienne is the Viinna Allobrogum of the Romans, under whom it was
a flourishing colony, and at the end of the empire it was the capital of
the Viennaise. It became the capital of Burgundy , but afterwards fell
to the rank of chief town of a countship, which was eventually -ceded to
to Marseilles, VIENNE. V. Haute 64, 421
France in 1349. Vienne was the aeat of the General Council of 1311-13,
at which the Order of Templars was abolished. The Archbishop of Vienne
bore the title of Primate of Gaul down to the Revolution. — The town
now contains numerous cloth-factories, tanneries, iron and copper works,
paper-mills, glass-works, etc. Large quantities of cherries, apricots, and
other fruits and vegetables are raised in the environs.
On leaving the station, we turn to the right and follow the Cours
Romeatang to the Place de Miremont, in which is the Museum and
LiBRABY. The collections of the Mus^e (entr. to the right; open to
the public on Thurs. and Sun., 10 to 12 and 2 to 4 or 5 ; to strangers on
other days also) include some modern paintings and a feyr antiquities.
The Cathedral (St. Maurice), to the left, is a fine Gothic church
dating from the 12-16th centuries. The fagade, towards the Rhone,
produces when viewed from a distance a fine effect, with its three
portals, large window, and two towers in the Flamboyant style, but
it has suffered severely during the religious wars and the Revolution
and from the effects of the weather.
Interior. This cathedral consists of nave and aisles without either
transepts or ambulatory. The aisles terminate in straight walls , that to
the right containing a fine stained - glass window of the 16th century.
Above the arches of the nave and the choir is a triforium - gallery.
To the right and left of the main portal are the stone coffins of two abbots
(d. 486 and 1245). The choir contains an altar of green marble, and the tomb
of an archbishop of the 18th cent., both by Jfichel Angelo Slodtz. Above the
N. side-door are some curious mutilated sculptures of the 12-13th centuries.
On the left of the cathedral nave is a cloister - portal of the
15th century. The street to the left, opposite the choir of the cath-
edral , leads to the Rue Poete-Martial, where we turn to the right.
The *Tbmplb ov Augustus and Livia, in the Place du Palais,
built perhaps about 41 A. D., under the Emp. Claudius, is Inferior
in beauty to the celebrated Maison Carrie at Nimes (p. 415) , and
less well preserved. The form is pseudo-peripteral-hexastyle, and
the dimensions SSVj ft. hy 4974 ^*- ^^^ 5*7 ^*- high. It was converted
into a church during the middle ages , when the spaces between the
columns were walled up and doors and windows inserted. — All
round are ancient fragments of columns and entablatures.
At the end of the square, on the right, and higher up to the
left of the Rue Poete-Mistral , are streets leading to the Hotel de
Ville. The Rue Poete-Mistral afterwards crosses the Rue Ponsard,
which leads to the right to the Place de Miremont; it then passes
by the side of the Hospital, and terminates at some very large Roman
Arches, now regarded as the remains of the forum. The Hdtel de
Ville is a handsome modern building in the Neo- Etruscan style,
facing a square embellished with a bronze Statue of Ponsard, the
dramatic poet, of Vienne (1814-67), by Dechaume.
A street, beginning a little lower, to the right, at the Place du
Palais, leads to the Church of St. Andre-le-Bas, in the Transition
style, with an interesting tower.
A little farther down is the confluence of the Gere and the
Rhone. Numerous manufactories extend up the banks of the latter
422 V. Route 64. VIEa^NE. Ffmn Lpont
river. A good view is obtained from th« quay of the ruined Chdteau
de la Bdtie (13th cent.), on the top of the right bank of the Gere,
and of a colossal modern statue of the Virgin, on the left ba&k. The
ascent (fine view) takes 15-20 minutes.
We now return along the quay. At the end of the street descend-
ing from the cathedral is a Suspension Bridge, connecting the town
of 8te. Colomhe (p. 407) with Vietme. The square tower seen ftrom
the bridge to the right was built in the 14th cent, at the end of a
stone bridge which was destroyed in 1641.
Farther on, along the quay, the little tower of the Church of St.
Pierre appears on the left. The church , a Romanesque building of
the 9th cent, (well restored), now contains the Musee Lapidaire,
open at the same hours as the Mus^e (p. 421).
Farther on , between the Rhone and the Place de la Caserne,
near the station, is the Champ^de-Mars. Following th« Rue d^ Av-
ignon on the other side, to the left of the barracks, we reach, in
about 12min. from the station, to the right, the Plan d' Aiguille,
an antique pyramid 52 ft. high, which was probably one of the goals
of a large circus, though popularly known as 'Pilate's Tomb'. The
interior is hollow and the base forms a square pierced by a double
arch with Corinthian columns, of which the carving is unfinished.
Fkom VfBVVK TO Lb G^band-Lemps (Oharanines)^ 33 M., Bteam- tramway
through an industrial district, via (15 M.) St. Jean ^ d^ - Boumay (Hot. dn
Nord ; 3300 inhab.)- — Le Orand-Lemps and thence to CharavineB^ see p. 349.
On quitting Vienne, the train passes to the right of the Plan de
TAiguille. On both banks of the Rhone are hills with orchards and
vineyards , the picturesque Pilat range forming the background to
the right. 22V2 M. Vaugris. Opposite is the famous Cdte-R6tie
vineyard. — 38 M. St, Ramhert-d' Alhon (buffet).
From 8t. Rambevt to Annonay^ Firtniny^ and St. Just-ntr-Loire, see p. 346.
Fbom St. Rambbbt to Riybs (Grenoble), 35 M., railway in O/s-i^/i hn.
(fares 6 f r. 25, 4 fr. 85, 3 fr. 75 c.). — 13 M. lieaurepaire (Liond^Or), a
small town to the left. An omnibus runs hence to (31/4 hrs.) Le Grand
Serre (see below). — 23 M. Z^ CdU-Si-Andr^ y the station for the ancient
and decayed little town of the same name (3826 inhab.)> 3 M. to the V.
This was the birthplace of Berlioz y the composer (1803 > 69), to whom a
bronze statue , by Lenoir, has been erected. — 35 M. Rivet (p. 349).
45Vi M. St. Vallier {H6t. des Voyageurs; de iaPoste), a small
town , with 4140 inhab., a Gothic ch&teau, and manufactures of por-
celain and pottery.
A steam -tramway runs hence to (19Vs M.) Le Orand Serre (hotel),
through the valley of the Oalaure.
55 M. Tain (Hdt. de la Poste), a town with 2928 inhab., opposite
Tournon (p. 407) and at the foot of the hill called the Ermitage,
on which grow the celebrated 'Hermitage' wines. In the Place de
I'Hdtel-de-Ville is an ancient sacrificial altar, found in the neigh-
bourhood.
A steam-tramway runs hence to (11 M.) Rotiumt (p. 866) vi& (5 M.) OH-
rieuxy where a braneh-line diverges for St. Donai.
Farther on (left) the Alps are seen, sometimes even Mont Blanc
to Marseilles. VALENCE. V, Route 64, 423
GOM. La Roche' de~Olun. W© cross the Ishe, Near Valence, on the
right bank , are the ruins of the Ch&teau de Crussol (p. 4*24).
66 M. Yale&ee. — Hot«lB. Giu.iiD-HdTBL db la Croix d'Ok, Place
dc la R^pubUqne, B. 8-6, B. ll/a, d^j. 2V2i D- 81/2 fr. •, •Hdr. du Louvrb
BT DB LA P08TB, Avenue Victor Hugo, R. 2-10, B. 11/2^ d^j- 2V2» D. 31/2-
3 fr. ; DB Fbavcb, Place de la B^publique; db l^Edropb, Tbtb d^Ok, Avenue
de Lyon J *db Paris, at the station; *db8 Votaoburs, to the left of the
station, R. IV21 dej. or D. 3 fr.
OaMu. Grmnd-Ca/i de la Bourse ^ Esplanade, with restaurant; Orand-
Oafi de Valence y Place de la Republique; Orand-Ca/i Olacier^ farth^. on,
at the corner of the boulevards. — Buffet^ at the rail, station.
Poat and T^egraph OfAce, Rue Jonehere 31, near the boulevards.
VeUence, the Valentia of the Romans, a town of 26,212inhab.,
picturesquely situated on the left bank of the Rhone, is the capital
of the department of the Drome.
The street opposite the station and the Avenue Victor Hugo, to the
right, lead to the beginning of the boulevards In the handsome Place
de la Republique, Here stands the imposing bronze Monument to
Emile Attgier (1820-80), by the Duchesse d'Uzes, including a statue
of the dramatist and figures representing Valence, Ancient Poetry,
Modern Comedy, the Rhone, and the Drdme.
In the Esplanade, to the left of the Place de la Republique, is
a bronze statue, by Sappey, of OenercU Championiut (1762-1800),
commander-in-chief of the army in Italy, who seized the kingdom
of Naples in 1798. From this point a fine view is enjoyed of the
heights on the opposite bank and of the fuins of Crussol (p. 424).
The Cathedral (St. Apollinaire), a few places to the right from the
square, is a curious church in the Auvergnat - Romanesque style,
consecrated in 1095 by Pope Urban II. and frequently restored.
The tower and porch were rebuilt in 1861 ; the exterior of the choir
is now being restored. The apse with its colonnade should be noted.
In the chancel is a marble monument to Pius VI. , who died in
exile at Valence, with a bust by Le Lahoureur.
Facing the left side -portal of the cathedral is Le Pendentif, a
curious sepulchrar edifice dating from 1548. — Beyond, at Rue P^-
rollerie 7, is the Maison Dupre Latour, which contains a fine cor-
ridor, staircase, and bas-reliefs in the Renaissance style (ring ; fee).
— In the Grande Rue, which runs parallel to the last-named, a little
Mgher tip, is the Maison des TStes, another curious but very dila-
pidated building of the 16th cent. (1531), with two statues, nine
medallions, and four busts, richly decorated windows , and an in-
teresting corridor and court (adm. free).
Keeping straight on, we reach the church of St. Jean-Baptiste,
lately rebuilt in the Romanesque »tj\e. It contains a fine organ-loft
and noteworthy fonts.
A little farther on is the Museum (open Sun. and Thurs., 1-4),
containing Roman antiquities, a picture gallery, and collections of
sculpture , natural history , coins, etc. — In the same building is
also the Aluniei^^ Library.
424 V, Bouts 64. MONTEUMAR. Ftom Lyont
An interesting exeursion may be made from Valence to the BuinM
de OracMli the remains of a 12th cent, castle, on a hill on the right bank
of the Rhone opposite the town. An omnibus (every l/g hr. ^ 3oe.) runs
in 40 min. to (21/2 M.) St Piray (p. 407), to the N.W. We quit the rehicle
before St, P^ray is reaehed, at a stream whence the ascent to the rains
is made in s/^hr. Fine view.
A steam - tramway leads from Valence to (20i/qM.) Romans (p. 356),
whence it is to be extended to Pont-en-Boyans (p. B62).
From Valence to Orenoblty gee p. 350.
75 Vs M. Livron (H8t. des Voyageurs ; BufiFet) , a little town on
a hill overlooking the Drdme, where the Huguenots successfully
resisted a siege by Henri III in 1574. It possesses & ruined castle.
Fbom Livbom to Pkivas, 20 M., branch-line crossing the Rhone. Be-
yond (11/4 M.) Lavoulte (p. 407) it joins the Lyons and Nimes line. 7 U. Le
Pouzin. Thence to (20 M.) Privat, see p. 407.
From Livhom to Vbtkbs (Brianfon; Digne)^ 721/2 M., railway in 41/2-
6I/2 hrs. (fares 13 fr. 20, 8 fr. 85, 5 fr. 75 c). This braneh-Une ascends the
Drome valley. — 11 M. Crest (H6t^l Bonsans; de Franee)^ a manufacturing
town with 5580 inhab., on the right bank of the Drome. A high square
keep is ihe only relic now left of its castle, demolished by Richelieu.
Excursions may be made from Crest to the ValUe de la VHbre (Oorge de
la Forit de Saau; 10 M.) and to the Gorges d'OnMixe (19 M.). — I31/2 H.
Aouste J 20i/a M. aaillan$ (Hdt. Frachet) \ 25 H. Vereheny, at the foot of tbe
Roc de Barry (3660 ft.) ; 29 M. PonUiix.
331/2 M. Die (Bdi. de St. Doniingue; des Alpes)^ a town of 3680 inhab.,
on the right bank of the Drome , was the Dea Vocontiorum of the Romans,
consecrated to Gybele, and one of their principal colonies on the road
from Milan to Vienne. Almost the only relic of the ancient town is the
Porte de St. Marcel^ a triumphal arch erected in honour of Marius. The
former cathedral (11th cent.; partly rebuilt in the 17th) contains some
antique columns. A road leads hence to the V. to (24 H.) La ChapeUe-en-
Vereors (p. 361).
The railway proceeds farther up the valley of the Drome. To the
left rises the Mont de Glandasse (6645 ft ; 4 hrs. from Die). The line rapidly
ascends and beyond (46 M.) Lnc-en-Diois (H(ft. Nal)^ an ancient place (^lo-
cus'), traverses the Roehers du Claps (^collapsus' ?), the results of a landslip
in 1442, which dammed the Dr6me and formed two lakes. After (49l/s M.)
Lesehes-Beawnont-w^ quit the Drome valley. Beyond (641/2 M.) Bew-
rikres and a tunnel 1120 yds. long the line beglnis the final aseent to the
ColdeCabre (3870ft.), under which it is carried by a tunnel, 21/4 M. long
(2913 ft.). — 61 at. Za Beaume. We descend to the valley of the Bue'eh. At
(68 M.) Aspres - sur-Bugch or Aspres-sur- Veynes (p. 372) we join the line ftrom
Grenoble to (721/2 M.) Veynes (p. 373).
Beyond Livron we cross the Drome, with a fine view of the
valley to the left. Numerous mulberry-trees. The scenery indicates
our approach to the South : the mountains are bare ; the fields, fertile in
spring, are parched in summer and autumn ; dust and heat afflict the
traveller from the North in summer, while at other times the piercing
Mistral (p. 427) too often blows. At (86V2 M.) Lachamp-Condillae
we again approach the Rhone..
93 M. Mont61imar (Buffet; Hdtel de la Poste, on the Boulevards;
des Princes, (3-rande Rue; de France, Boul. de la G^are; du Pare, near
the station, dij. or D. 2*/^ tr.), an ancient and prosperous town with
13,740 inhab., lies on a hill topped by an old Castle, now a prlsoo.
There is a fine view of the mountains of the Vivarals firom the terrace.
Mont^limar is noted for Its nougat, a kind of almond sweetmeat.
to MarseUlet. ORANGE. V, Route 64. 425
Roads lead from Montelimar on the right bank to (3 M.) Roehemaure
(p. 408) and (3 M.) U Teil (p. 408).
From Montelimar a steam<tramWay runs through the valley of the
Jahron and aeross a hilly district to (18 M.) Dieuleflt (1275 ft.^ Hdt. Afaurp),
an industrial town with 3544 inhab. , half of whom are Protestants.
The railway crosses theRoubion and Jahron. — 98V2M. Chateau-
neuf^ du - Rhone , connected by a suspension- bridge with Viviers
(p. 408). — 102 M. Dowaerc (Hotel du Commerce). — To the left, upon
a hill, appears La Oarde ~ Adhimar, which has a remarkable Ro-
manesque church with a double apse. — 106 M. Pierrelatte (Hot.
du Palais), with 3218 inhab., takes its name from a rock said to
have been brought thither by a giant (^petra^lata').
From Piebrblattb to Ntohs, 26 M., railway in IV4 br. (fares 4 fr. 70,
3 fr. 20, 2 fr. 5 c.).— 41/2 M. St. Paul- Trois-Ghdteavx, a decayed little town, of
some importance in the time of the Romans under the name of Tricastrum.
It has an interesting old Romanesque cathedral. — 12 M. Qrignan-Gha-
maret. GrignKa (Hdtel des Bons-EnfanU)^ 21/2 M. from Chamaret, is a small
town with the remains of the magnificent Ghdteau belonging to the Counts
of Grignan, one of whom married Madame de Sevigne's daughter. Vis-
itors are admitted on Thurs. only, 1-5, except when that day falls on a
festival or is a fair-day. The chateau contains a fairly good gallery of
paintings^ including portraits of the Marquise de Sevign^ and her daughter.
Uadame de S^vign6 died here in 1696 and is buried in the adjoining church.
Her Statue by the brothers Rochet, stands in the Place de I'Hotel-de-Ville.
~ 171/2 M. Yalrtas (H6t. de France; H6t. du Nord), a town of 5429 inhab.,
suffered much in the Religious Wars. — 26 M. Nyons (H6t. des Voyageurs)^
an old industrial town (3610 inhab.) , on the Ejfgues. About 5 M. to the
N.E. (omn. in the season) are the small baths of Condorcet, A diligence
runs from Nyons to (27 M.) Carpenirag (p. 437) viS (10 M.) Vaison (p. 427).
114 M. Bollene-la-Croi8iere. BoUene (H6t. de la Oroix), 2V2 M.
to the E., a town of antique origin, still retains part of its 14th cent,
fortifications, and a 15th cent, tower, dating from a priory. A dili-
gence plies from the station to (*/2 hr.) Pont- St- Esprit (p. 408). —
II6V2M. Mondro/gon has a picturesque ruined castle. 121 M. Pio-
lenc. We enter the fertile plain of Orange , and cross the Eygues ;
the horizon is bounded on the left by Mont Ventoux (p. 4S7).
125^/2 M. Orange. — Hotels. *HdTBL de la Poste bt des Princes,
Avenue de TArc-de-Triomphe, dej. 3fr. ^ Hotel-Cafe d^Eusopb, small,
near the rail, station. — Oaf^s in the Place de THotel-de-Ville and the
^ours St. Martin. — Post Office ^ Place des Cordeliers, near the Eoman
Theatre. — Tram- Omnibus from the station to the Cours St. Martin, 10 e.
Orange, a town with 9980 inhab. j was the Arauiio of the Ro-
inans, and oncie a prosperous and important place.
In the middle ages Orange was the chief town of a small principality
which, on the death of the last reigning prince without issue in 1531, fell
to his nephew the Count of Nassau, and until the death of William III.
(d. 1702), King of England, continued subject to the house of Nassau-
Orange. By the Peace of Utrecht (1713) Orange was annexed to France,
And the house of Nassau retained nothing but the title of Prince of Orange.
To reach the town from the station, we follow a fine avenue of
plane'-trees and cross the Meyne, Those making for the triumphal
arch here turn to the right and afterwards recross the stream ; for
the theatre we turn to the left. The omnibus passes near the latter.
The *Tbiumphal A&ch is situated to the N. of the town, on
426 V. Route 64. ORANGE. From Lyons
the Lyons road. This structure, the finest monument of the kind
in France, is in a fair state of preservation , and measures 72 ft. in
height , 67 ft. in width , and 26 ft. in depth. It consists of three
arches (the central one considerably larger than the others), all with
fine coffered vaulting. Twelve Corinthian columns adorn the struc-
ture. Below the attic story, on both sides, are curious bas-reliefs of
contests between Romans and Gauls, with numerous figures, very
lifelike, but small and difficult to distinguish. Over the smaller
arches are trophies, and on the sides appear captive barbarians.
The name of Sacrovir, on one of the shields (to the right, on the side
next the town), has led to the supposition that the arch was erected
after the defeat of this chieftain of the /Edui , in A. D. 21 ; and
this belief has been strengthened by the deciphering of an inscrip-
tion to Tiberius, from the traces left by the letters on the architrave.
The arch was restored in 1828.
Retracing our steps and keeping almost straight on , along the
Rue Victor Hugo, we pass (left) near the Church of Notre Dame,
dating partly from the ll-12th centuries. Near this fpoint is the
Hotel de Ville, erected in 1671 and restored in 1888. The tower
belonged to the original building. In the Place de rHotel-de-Ville
is a marble statue, by Daniel Dulocle (1846), of Count Reim-
baud II., who was killed at the siege of Antioch in 1099. — The
Rue Grande Fusterie leads hence to the ancient theatre, in front of
which is a group by Ingalbert (1899; Ancient and Modem Ait).
The ""Roman Theatre is very striking on account of its size, in
spite of its now ruinous condition. The tiers of seats, once almost
all destroyed or ruined, have been partly restored; but the stage,
which is unique, is almost entirely preserved, and from it we may
judge of the arrangement of a Roman theatre. The wall at the back
of the building, on the side next the town, is 118 ft. high , 340 ft.
long, and 13 ft. thick. Blind arcades are its only omamentatioD.
At the top corbel-stones may still be seen with holes in which the
masts for the velarium were placed. The stage, contrary to the usual
practice, was roofed. This theatre, which held about 7000 spectators,
was restored in 1894-97 as a ^National Theatre', in which large
spectacular performances are to be given yearly. For admission vis-
itors apply to the custodian (gratuity). The left wing now contains
a Museum of statues, fragments , and inscriptions found at Orange.
— To the right of the theatre are remains of a huge Circus, — On the
hill above the amphitheatre (good view) are a statue of the Madonna
and the scanty ruins of the Castle of the Princes of Orange, built of
Roman materials and destroyed in 1673 by order of Louis XIV.
The Cours Portonls, on the same side of the town, is embellished
with a War Monument, commemorating the fallen of 1870-71.
Fbom Okakob to Carpbhtras AMD L'ISLB-suR'SoRGUS, 34 M.. railway
in I8/4-21/4 hra. (fares 4 fr. 36, 2 fr. 85, i fr. 86 c). — From (9 M.) 8ar-
rtam an omnibus plies to (21/2 M.) the baths of Jfontmirail ^ with mineral
to Marseillei. TARASCON. V. Route 64. 427
springs and fine rocky scenery (Dentelles de Montmirail). — 14 M. Carpentras^
see p. 437. — ITi/j M. Femes (3790 inhab.) has a church (Kotre Dame) of
the llth cent., an old castle (now a school), and three gates and other
remains of the fortifications. The Tour Ferrande contains some frescoes
of the 13th century. — 24 M. V Jtle-tur-Sorgue^ see p. 436.
A public vehicleplies from Orange to (16 M.) Yaiaon (Hdtel du Com'
meree)y a town with 2800 inhab., on the Ouvkze. Ifumerous Roman antiquities
have been found here, the best of which is the Diadumenos in the British
Museum. It was the seat of a bishop until the 12th cent. , and its former
Cathedral is an interesting monument of various periods of architecture.
The cloiBters, of the llth cent. , have been converted into an architectural
museum. The old Church of St. QuentiHy dedicated to one of the bishops, is
also interesting. Vaison also has a Roman bridge, some old fortifications,
and a mediaeval chateau. — Omnibuses ply hence to (10 M.) Nyon* (p. 425)
and to (I61/2 M.) Carpentrtu (p. 437).
The railway beyond Orange crosses the plain , at si considerable
distance from the Rhone. The plain is much subject to the Mistral,
or piercing N.W. wind, which prevails especially in winter and
autumn on the shores of the Mediterranean , and is beneficial in
purifying the atmosphere. Plantations of cypress -trees have been
laid out in this neighbourhood as a protection against this wind. —
Mont Ventoux is still visible on the left.
130 M. CouTtkezon (3100 inhab.) has some 14th cent, fortifica-
tions and a fine modern chateau. To the right is a hill, rising over
the Rhone, on which stands (SVa M. from B^darrides) Chateau-
neuf-Calcemier or Chdteauneuf-dwPape, dominated by the ruins
of a papal castle. — 133V2 M. B^darrides, a small town at the con-
fluence of the Ouvlze and the Sorgue, the latter of which we cross.
From (137 M.) Sorgues, a small industrial town (4160 inhab.), a
branch-line runs to Carpeutras (p. 437). 139V2 M. Le Pontet. \Ve
now once more approach the Rhone.
143 M. Avignon (buffet), see p. 430.
As we leave the station, we have a retrospect of the town to the
right. The line crosses the Durance, near its confluence with the
Rhone. 146 V2 M. Barbentane; the town, on a rock IV4M. to the
right, has a fine 14th cent, tower (branch-line to Orgon, see p. 436).
I56V2 M. Tarasoon (Buffet; *Hdtel des Emperenrs, du Louvre,
both in the Cours National), a quiet town of 9(X)0 inhab., lies on
the left bank of the Rhone, opposite Beaucaire (p. 406). Tarascon is
said to derive its name from a monster called Tarasque who ravaged
the country in the 1st cent, of our era and from whom it was de-
livered by St. Martha. A popular fete is still occasionally held in
commemoration of this event. The Cours National, leading to the
right from the station, and the Avenue de la R^publique, which
continues it, are the chief streets.
The Church of St. Martha, founded in the 12th and rebuilt in
the 14- 15th cent., has a fine Romanesque S. portal. It contains
paintings hy Yien, Parrocel, Yauloo, etc. In the crypt is the tomb
of St. Martha (restored).
The remarkable Gothic Castle of the 14- 15th cent, has a highly
428 r. Boute 64. ST. REMY. From Lyons
interesting interior, but it is now used as a prison, and is shown
only by permission of the prefect of Les Bouches-du-Rhdne. (A re-
cent restoration contemplates another use for it.) King Ren^ of
Anjou , Count of Provence (see p. 445), completed this castle and
resided here.
From Taraseon to I/ime», see pp. 406^ 407; branch to (17 H.) RemouUns
(p. 409).
From Tarascov to St. Rbmt (Orgon) , 91/2 M. , railway in 34-^ min.
(fares 1 fr. 55, 1 fr. 15, 85 e.). The trains start from a local station, near
the other. — 91/2 M. St. "BjtmjiHdi. de Provence^ on the boulevards, B. X
B. 1, d6j. 21/3, D. 3 fr. ; ViUe-Verte^ opposite the church), an unimportant
town of 5970 inhab., with tree -shaded boulevards, contains an imposing
modern church, with a Qothie belfry of the 14th century. St. Remy lies
about 1 M. to the K. of two important Roman monuments, relics of the
town of Qlanum Livii^ destroyed by the Visigoths in 480. One of these is
a much-injured TriumpJial Areh^ which, though not large and with but
one arch , is well - proportioned and still shows fine remains of ornamen-
tation and sculptures, representing captives. It dates from the 1st or 2nd
cent, of our era. The other building, situated close by, is a *Mausoleum^
called the Tomb of the Julii^ from the inscription on the architrave. Pyra-
midal in form, it is nearly 60ft. in height, and consists of three stories:
a sort of square base, with bas-reliefs (to the S., hunting-scene; on the
three other sides, battles)*, a rich arrangement of porticos with fluted half
columns*, lastly a small round temple with ten fluted Corinthian columns,
in which are two draped, statues, with modern heads. According to some
this graceful structure dates from the time of Ciaesar, others assien it a
less remote date. — Walkers may proceed hence to Les Baux (^. 441) by
following the Maussane road (p. 441); but those who wish to drive must
return to St. Remy and take a longer route (Tl/s M.), beginning at the
church (carr. 10 fr. ; to Aries, halting at Les Baux, 20 fr.).
Beyond St. Remy the country is uninteresting. At (ISl/s M.) Plan
d* Orgon we join the line from Barbentane (p. ^7).
The Aries railway now skirts the bank of the Rhone, with the
Alpines on the left (p. 441). 160 M. S^gonnaux, To the left are the
ruins of Mont -Major (p. 441), to the right is —
165 M. Aries (Buffet), see p. 438. — The railway is carried over
marshy ground by a viaduct Vt M* ^ong) ^^^ turns to the £.
Beyond (17072 M.) RapheU we enter the Plaine de la Cratt
(Gelt, 'craigh'), the Campus Lapideus or Cravus of the ancients.
This plain, about 75 sq. M. in area, bounded by the Rhone on the W.,
by the Alpines on the N., by lagoons on the £., and by the sea on the
8., is covered with shingle brought down by the Rhone, no doubt
from the glaciers of the Alps. This plain is sterile, except where it is
crossed by irrigation-canals, the chief of which is the Canal de Cra-
ponnc (p. 240). The line is sheltered from the Mistral (p. 427) by
cypress - trees. — 185V2 M. Mtramas (buffet; hotels). Line to Ca-
vaillon, see p. 443.
Fkom Miramas to Port-de-Bouc (Martigues)^ I6I/2 M., railway in 1 hr.
(fares 2 fr. 65 c., 2 fr., 1 fr. 45 c.). — 6 M. Istres COstrea*), a town with 3500
inhab., to the S. of the Btang de V Olivier ^ near the Etang de Berre (see
p. 429) and the mouths of two irrigation - canals entering this lagoon. It
has large soda-works. — 9V2 ^> LevtUdue^ on the Etang de Levalduc. — 13 M.
Pos^ 2 M. to the W., near the Etang de VEttomac (a corruption of the Greek
'stoma', mouth), owes its name, like the neighbouring gulf, to the 'Foss«
Mariano:', a canal dug in B.C. 104 by the Roman legions under Marins, who
had come to Gaul on a campaign against the Germans. It connected the
to Marseilles. MARTIGUES. V. Route 64. 429
lagoons to the W. with one another. — 16Va M. Port-de-Bono (H6tel du Com-
mere*), a village with a small harbour, near the mouths of the Boue and
Aries Canal and the Etang de Oaroftte, by which the Etang de Berre com-
munieates with the Mediterranean. To the £. are important salt-works.
— Mariigues (see below) is 41/2 M. to the £. of Port-de-Bouc (omn. 50 c).
18572 M. St. Chamas (two hotels) lies near the N.W. end of the
Etang de Berre, to the right, a salt lake, 13*/2 M. long, 4-8 V2 M.
wide, with an area of 58 sq. M., which it has heen proposed to con-
vert into a naval port and harbour of refuge, by enlarging the channel
from the Etang de Caronte (see above). St. Ghamas has a large
powder-mill. About '/^ M. to the S.E. the river Touloubre is
spanned by the fine Pont Flavien, an ancient bridge of the time
of Augustas, with a small Corinthian triumphal arch at each end.
The railway crosses this river by aline viaduct, from which the
Roman bridge is seen to the right. — 197 M. Berre; the little town
(Hdt. du Luxembourg) is IV4 M. from the station. — 201 V2 M.
Sognac (buflfet) ; omn. to Berre, V2 ^•
Fkom Boonac to Aix, I6V2 M., railway in 8/4-I hr. (fares 3 fr. 90, 1 fr.
95, 1 fr. 30 c). — 41/2 M. Velaux. At (71/2 M.) Roque/avour is the famous
*Aqiiediiet of Roqaafavonri a marvel of modern architecture (1842-47), the
dimensions of which (length 490 yds., height 270 ft.) exceed those of the
Pont du Oard (p. 409). This aqueduct forms part of the Canal de Marseille,
bin., long, designed for the conveyance of water from the Durance to
Marseilles and its neighbourhood, and for irrigation. — 161/2^- -^^ (P- 444).
— Rognac and the four following stations are also on the local line, called
the Ligne de VEstaque (p. 457).
Beyond (204 M.) Vitrolles the railway quits the Etang de Berre.
— 207 M. Pas- des' Landers (Hot. de la Gare).
From Pas-dbs-Lavcibrs to Habtigubs, 11 Va ^m railway inSOmin. (fares
1 fr. 95, 1 fr. 45, 1 fr. 15 c). — Martisues HGrand Hdtel de Mariiguet; H6t.
du Court), a decayed town (^Maritima ) of 5680 inhab., formerly the capital
of a principality, lies at the junction of the Berre and Caronte lagoons
(see above). Its harbour is connected by the latter with that of Bouc (see
above). Dock-yards^ large salt-works. Martigues is sometimes called the
,Venice of Provence', and it is a favourite resort of painters.
Beyond Pas-de-Lanciers we pass through the Tunnel de la Nerte,
nearly 3 M. long (5-6 min.), the longest tunnel in France; then
between wild rocks. We presently obtain a fine glimpse of the Medi-
terranean and the gulf of Marseilles, with the rocky islands of Po-
megues, Ratonneau, and If. After (211^2 M.) VEstaque we pass
another tunnel, V4^' long. — ^ii^l^yi'St.Louis-les^Aygaladss, on
the line from Marseilles to Rognac (see above). Numerous country-
houses are seen, and we have before us a southern landscape sur-
rounded by mountains, with the most important harbour of France
in the foreground.
2I8V2 M. Marseilles^ see p. 448.
430
66. Avignon and its Environs,
a. Avignon.
Amval. The Orande Oare (PI. B, 4), on the line to Marseilles^ is
connected with the Oare du Po»t d" Avignon^ on the Kimes railway (p. 408),
by a loop-line (3 H.)-
Hotels. GbavD'HotbIi db l^Eubopb (PL ee ; G, 1), Haee Crillon^ an old
established house, B. 3V3-l!2, B. IV21 d^J- i^Vs^ !>• ^^ pens. 10-13 fr. ^ Geand
H6tbld'Avigwon(P1. a;C,3),Rue de la Bepublique, R. 3-5, B. li/a, d4j. 3,
D. 31/2 fr. ; Crillok (P1. d*, B, 3), Gours de la Rdpublique 43, with garden-
restaurant , same charges ; dv Lovvrb (P1. b ^ G, 2), Rue St. Agricol 23,
d^j. SVsi i>- 3 fr. (the dining -hall is an old Gothic chapter -house ) ^ du
Luxembourg (PI. c; D, 3), Rue du Ghapeau-Rouge 33, a little out of the
way, but well spoken of, R. 3, B. 1, d4j. 21/2, D. 3 fr. ^ du (Tours, opposite
the post-office, small, with restaurant, R. 2 fr. \ db Framgb, Place Pignotte
(PI. D,3), moderate i St. Yves (PI. e; D, 3), Rue Thiers.
0af<8. C. de Paris, Althen, F^vrier, etc.. Place de rHotel-de-Ville
(PI. G,2); C. des Nigociantt, Tetveme Alsadenne, Rue de la R^publique;
Brasserie du Palmier, Gours de la R^publique.
Cabs. From the station into the town or vice versa 50 e. (35 e. extra,
if previously summoned to ^pick up' at the house) ^ double fares after
midnight; per hour, 1 fr. 60c.
Electric Tramways. From the Hdiel de Ville (Pi. G, 3} via the station
to St. Ruf (on the S.), to Monclar (S.W.), to St. Viran (N.E.), and to U
Pontet and Sorguex (p. 427). From the Place Carnot (PI. D, 2) to St. Leuare
(PI. F, 3) and the Rotonde, via the Rue Thiers. Fares from 10 e.
Post and Telegraph OfAee (PI. B, 3) , Gours de la Rtf publiqne.
Baths. Orands Bains de la Paste, Rue de la R^publiqiie 30; also at
the Grand Hotel d'Avignon.
Protestant Chnrohes (PI. G, 3), Rue Joseph Vernet and Roe de la
Republique.
Avignon, a town of 46,200 inhab. , is the capital of the depart-
ment of Vaucluse and the seat of an archbishopric. It is built on
the left bank of the Rhone , above which rises a rock , crowned by
the ancient palace of the popes and the cathedral. These buildings
overlooking the town, and the old fortifications surrounding it, give
it a marked and picturesque appearance, but with few exceptions
its streets are narrow, tortuous, and badly paved. A stay here is not
very pleasant when the Mistral (p. 427) is blowing ; though the say-
ing: 'Avenio ventosa, cum vento fastidiosa, sine vento venenosa', is
somewhat exaggerated.
Avignon, the ancient Avenio^ powerful even before the arrival of the
Romans, became under their dominion a flourishing colony, though it has
preserved scarcely any relics of its ancient monuments. It owes its main
Interest to the fact that from 1309 to 1377 it was the residence of tlif
popes, seven of whom, from Glement V. to Gregory XI., reigned here (the
latter transferred his seat to Rome in 1377), and it, along with the Gomtat
Venaissin, continued subject to the pontifical sway until it was annexed
to France by the Revolution in 1791. Peaceable till this epoch, Avignon
was then divided between two parties, the one favourable and the other
opposed to the annexation^ and the assassination of one of the former
party was followed by the massacre of some adherents of the other,
who had been arrested by order of the notorious Jourdan, nicknamed
Coupe-Tete. In 1815 the royalist reactionaries committed excesses in their
turn, of which Marshal Brune, among others, was a victim. The population
sank from 80,000 in the reign of Louis XIV. to 17,000 at the Revolution.
Palact of the Popes. AVIGNON. V. Route 66. 431
In 1326 Francesco Petrarca (1304-74) visited Avignon and in a nunnery-
ehttreh bebeld Laura de Noves (p. 436), then in her 18th year, whose praises
he has celebrated in so many songs and sonnets.
In the 16- 18th cent. Avignon was an artistic centre of some import-
ance, especially for religious works ^ and its churches and chapels still
contain manv noticeable paintings by Simon de Chdlons^ Nicolas Mignard
(known as Mignard d*4vtV»<>»)i P*«rre Mignard^ Pierre^ Joseph^ and Charles
Parrocel-t Reindud Levieux^ and Philippe Sauvan. In our own days the
town has become one of the chief headquarters of the *'F61ibrige\ or
culture of Provencal poetry.
The *Clity Walls, skirting the railway, to the S. of the town,
were built by the popes in 1349-68. They are very well preserved,
particularly at the Boul. St. Michel (to the right as we come from
the station), and present an interesting example of the fortifications
of that period. The gates are in part destroyed (the Porte Tlmbert,
PI. D 4, in 1896, and the Porte de I'Oulle, PL B, 0, 1, in 1900),
but the encircling wall, enclosing an area not nearly occupied by
the present population, still retains its 39 round or square towei'S
and its machicolated battlements.
The handsome Gours and Rue de la K^publique lead straight
from the station towards the centre of the town. Near the end of
the former, to the right, at the corner of the Rue Joseph Vernet, is
the Post and Telegraph Office, in an old Benedictine abbey, the
Flamboyant chapel of which is now a Protestant Church. Behind
is a small park (Jardin Public), with a group of Wrestlers by
Charpentier and busts of Bequien (1788-1851), a benefactor of
Avignon, sjid Roumanille (1818-91), the 'F^ibrist'. — Farther
on, to the right (entrance in the Rue du College), is the Lycee
(PL G, 3), an old Jesuit college, the chapel of which (generally
closed) contains a Visitation by N. Mignard.
The Place de I'Hotel-de- Ville (PL C, 2), at the end of the Rue
de la R^publique, is the centre of the town and much frequented on
line evenings. The Monument du Centenaire, by Gharpentier and
F^rigoule, erected here in 1891, commemorates the union of the
Comtat Venaissin with France. The modern Hotel de Ville (PL G, 2)
has a i4-15th cent, tower, with a set of chimes. Adjacent is the
pretty Theatre (PL G, 2), built in 1845 by Feucheres.
The former *Palao6 of the Popes (PL D, 2), in the Place du
Palais, to the right, is at present a barrack ; visitors apply for ad-
mission to the concierge (fee), to the right in the gateway. The lofty
and gloomy Gothic pile, commanding the town and its suburbs,
comprizes an irregular assemblage of buildings constructed under
four different popes from 1335 to 1364. The S. part is the most mod-
ern. TheN. and oldest part, restored in the 19th cent., contains the
archives of the department and the town. The palace had seven towers,
one of which has disappe«>d. Cola Rienzi (d. 1354), the Roman
Tribune, is said to have been^ confined in the Tour de Trouillas, on
tile N. side. The walls are 17-18 ft. thick. The princijial rooms have
^Qen divided into several stages for the needs of the.^^rracks. The
432 y. Route 65, AVIGNON. Cathedral,
Salle du Consistoire and the Chapels contain frescoes by Simone
Martini of Siena and Matteo daViterho, representing prophets and
scenes from the lives of St. Martial, St. John, and John the Baptist.
To the left, opposite the palace, is the old Hdtel des Monnaies
(PI. C, 2), built in 1610, and now containing the Conservatoire de
Musique. The chief ornaments of the curious fagade are two huge
garlands on the first story, a large shield on the second, and two
eagles and two gerfalcons on the attic. The two stories have no
windows towards the square. — At the end of the square is the Petit
S^minaire (PI. D, 1), formerly the Archbishop's Palace, of the 14th
century. In front of it stands a bronze statue, by V^ray, of CrUUm
(1541-1616), the *brave Crillon' of Henri ly.
The Cathedral or Notre- Dame-des- Doms {i. e. Dominorum; PL
D, 2), on the rock to the N. of the papal, palace, is a massive and
sombre Romanesque church, said to have been founded in the
4th cent., but dating mainly from the 12th cent., and afterwards
often restored and in part rebuilt. The tower is surmounted by a
statue of the Virgin (1859). The frescoes with which iS<mon« Martini
adorned the arch and pediment of the porch are almost obliterated.
Thb I»tbbior is riehly deeorated. The galleries of the nave have
rieh Renaissance balustrades of marble. In the large ehapel to the left
are the Gothic tomb of Benedict XII. (d. 1342), and frescoes by Eug.
Deviria; and in a chapel to the right is a statue of the Virgin, by
Pradier. The lantern^ at the entrance to the ehoir^ also shows some tracer
of paintings , and in the choir itself is placed the ancient papal throne,
in marble. The chief object of interest, however, is the TonA of Pope
John XXII. (d. 1334), a masterpiece of the Gothic style of the 14th cent.,
unfortunately mutilated during the Bevolution. It formerty stood in the
middle of the church , but is now preserved in a closed chapel (fee), to
the right of the choir, near the vestry. The pope is represented in a
reclining position under a very rich Gothic canopy. — The chief paintings
in the church include: Pierre Parrocel^ St Bruno, Annunciation; Pierre
Mignard^ Assumption, in the last-mentioned chapel \ P. Parroeely Assumption,
at the end of the choir, and St. Rufus praying before the Virgin; N. Mignardy
Annunciation: L. Levieux, Presentation, in the nave; If. Mignard^ Visita-
tion, Purification, in the 4th chapel on the right.
To the N. of the cathedral is the fine Promenade du Bocher det Domi
('rupes Dominorum' ; PI. D, 1), extending to the verge of the plateau,
which terminates abruptly about 300 ft. above the Rhone. It is em-
bellished with a bronze statue, by Brian, of Jean Althen^ a Persian
who in 1766 introduced the cultivation of madder, which long formed
the staple commodity of the district, being used extensively in dyeing
the French red military trousers before the introduction of the ali-
zarine dyes in 1871. The bronze Venus in the pond is by Charpen-
tier. The terrace in front of Althen's statue commands a splendid
*View of the Rhone, the C^vennes, and the Alps (finest by even-
ing light).
From the promenade, to the left, are seen the ruins of the celebrated
Pont d' Avignon or St. Binizet (PI. D, 1), across the Rhone. This bridge, built
under the direction of St. B^n^zet by the 'freres pontifes\ or ^bridge-
making fraternity*, has a 15th cent, ehapel of St. B6n^xet. The bridge
ended on the right bank at the Tour Philippe le B«l (p. 436). — Farther
Siuse^ AVIGNON. F. Route eb. 433
down is a wooden bridge leading to an island, which is conneeted by a
Smpeiuion Bridge (Pi. B, 1) with Villeneuve.
The church of St. Agrieol (PI. 0, 2) , in the street of the same
name, was originally foanded in 680, but dates in itd present form
from the 14-15th centuries. The upper part of the tower is nLoderri.
The church contains paintings by Parrocel, N. Mignard, etc. , and
other works of art. — The Rue St. Agrieol joins the Rue Joseph
Vernet, opposite the OratoPre (Pi.B,C,2), a chapel built in 1713-41,
with an Adoration of the Shepherds, by N. Mignard, as altar-piece
(if closed, apply at St. AgricoPs).
The *Ma86e OalTet (PL B, 2, 3), in a fine 18th cent, mansion,
farther to the left, is one of the best in the provinces. It was founded
in 1810 by the physician whose name it bears, and is open to
the public on Sun., 12-4, and also on other days to strangers (fee).
Ground Floor. — Vbstibuls : Roman Antiquities found at Vaison (p. 427)
and other places in this district. To the left, a moniiter CrOurs') ^ statue
of a Gallic chieftain found at Vach^res (Basses Al pes) ^ mutilated statue
of a Celtic warrior with a large shield ; in the centre, marble figure of a
nymph \ to the right, a cast of the Diadumenos of Vaison in the British
Museum (see p. 437), a headless figure of Mars, and busts. — 1st Gallbby,
on the right, at the end of the vestibule : Ancient and Modern Sculptures.
To the left, Veray^ Harvester asleep. On the wall, •Fragment of an Attic
tomb-relief (girl with doll and servant with bird). To the right : Simian^
Etruscan Art; Bosio^ Indian maiden; Pradier^ Cassandra; Kspercieux^
(vreek woman about to bathe; Jiathet^ Oread; David d^ Angers ^ Bust of
Cuvier; Brian^ Faun; Cordonnier^ Abel. — 2nd Gallbry, next the court t
Mediaeval and Renaissance Sculptures^ many from buildings in the neigh-
bourhood. To the left: *Descent from the Cross, in wood, painted and
gilded; tomb of Card. Brancas, a fine Gothic work adorned with statuettes.
To the right : Casts of a magnificent Renaissance chimney-piece and of the
Bearing of the Gross by Laurana in the church of St. Didier (p. 435) ; chim-
ney-piece of the 17th cent. ; fine marble high -relief of Justice, Strength,
and Temperance, from the tomb of Marshal de Chabannes, who fell at
Pavia (lo35); fragments of the tomb of Card, de la Grange (d. 1402); tomb
of Pope Urban V., also Gothic. — On the groundfloor, to the left, is the
Municipal Library, with 117,000 vols, and 3300 MBS. (open daily, 912 and
2 to 4 or 5; in winter also 8-10).
A hall at the end of the garden, to the left, contains portraits and
busts of illustrious nattives; also a large antique mosaic from Vaison.
At the foot of the staircase to the first floor are two well-preserved
Roman altars and two funeral reliefs from Vaison. On the staircase are
a bust of P. Parrocel (1664-1739), by flart«* (1890), and modern plaquettes.
First Floor. — Gallery, ist Bay, from left to right: 377. O. van den
Btdhout, Calvary; ' Velvet' Brueghel, 388. Fire (allegory), 367. The Elements ;
UnkMwn Artist of the 16th cent, 450. Virgin and Child, 451. St. Lawrence.
^7. St. Pierre de Luxembourg, Bishop of Metz (d. 1387) ; Unknoven Artists
of the leth cent., ^2. The creation, 463. St. Jerome; 260. Tatentm, Fortune-
teller; 868. Ph. d4 Ohampaigne, Portrait; Simon de Ghdlons (who lived from
1545 to 1565 at Avignon^ where there are numerous other works by his hand),
^. Descent from the Cross, *252. Adoration of the Shepherds; 458. School
of Avignon^ Annunciation; 359. Hans von Schwaz (not Holbein)^ Portrait.
2nd Bay, to the right : 430. Teniers the Younger, Interior ; 387. Hobbema (?),
^1. /. van Ru^sdetel, Landscapes; 362. Brouwer (?), Rustic scene; 427. Stten-
">«*, St. Peter in prison ; 411. Van der Neer, Landscape ; 410. P. Neeffs the
&der, CHiureh-interior ; 418. Rottenhammer, Adoration of the Shepherds:
380. Frans FlorU (de VHendt), Croesus and Solon ; 460. Unknoum Arttst of the
^th cent.^ Adoration of the Magi; 456. Unknoum Artist of the ISih dent., Besur-
Baedeker. Southern France. 4th Edit. 28
434 V, Route 65. AVIGNON. St. Pierre.
reetion; 384. Oer. van Haarlem (?), Adoration of the Child; 356. Salr. Rota^
Landscape; 329. PtazzeUOy Child; 338. Sassoferrato^ Virgin and Child; 475.
UnlMotffH ArtUt of the leth cent.^ Portrait of Andrea Doria ; 306. Ann. Carracdy
Polyphemus and Galatea; 308. Lod. Garracei^ Pieta; 347. Al. Turchiy Marriage
at Cana ; 319. Francucci (Inn. da Imola)^ Holy Family (after Raphael) ; 312. Lor.
diCredi, Madonna; 318. Jacobello del Fiore, Virgin and Child; 322. School
of QioiXOy Coronation of the Virgin; Thorxaldun^ Bust of Horace Verset. —
On the left side, where we begin again at the entrance, are French
paintings : iWc. Mignard^ 192. Dead Christ, 191. Frederick Sforaa, the vice-
legate, placing Avignon under the protection of St. Peter of Luxembourg;
199. Pierre Mignardy Mme. de Montespan and her son, the Due du Maine;
then several other works by P. Mignard; Sib. Bourdon ^ 51. Baptism of
Christ, 54. Portrait of the artist; 316, 315, 314, 317. G. Poussin (Dughet),
Landscapes; P. Parroeel^ 212. Madonna and Child, 213. AnBuneiMion;
128-130. Grimou, Portraits; 158, 159, 160 (?). Largmh-e^ Portraits (150. Mar-
shal de la Feuillade) ; 211. P. Parrocel, St. Francis of Assisi; 97. J. L. David,
Death of Jos. Barra (sketch); 83. Coud^r, Adoration of the Magi:
3rd Bay, to the left: Sea-pieces and landscapes by Jot. Vernet., of
Avignon; 283. Carle Vernet (son of Jos.), Corso at Rome. — 4th Bay.
Modern works of less importance: 126. Fr. Granet^ Jacques de Molay ad-
mitted to the Order of the Templars; 133. Gudin, View of Havre (1834); 118.
Giricault, Battle of Nazareth (1799) ; If. Vernet (son of Carle), 284, Mazeppa,
286. Jos. Vernet tied to a mast watching storm- effects.
Room I, adjoining the entrance, contains modern paintings; a magni-
ficent ivory *Crueiflx, 27V2 inches high, with two extra arms, by Jean
Guillerm:n (1659); curiosities; statuettes, enamels, .medals, ivories, Italian
majolica, miniatures, bindings of the 16-i9th cent., etc. — In Room II
are antiquities, glass, small bronzes, terracottas, mediaeval objects (to
the righO, medals, small modern sculptures; in the centre, vaaea and
a bronze lamp. — Room III contains the rest of the medals and a small
ethnographical collection, including a Buddha with 46 arms from Ton-
kin; Chinese articles.
In the garden at the back of the Museum a monument was erected
in 1823 by Mr. Charles Kensall to the memory of Petrarch's Laura (p. 431).
In the courtyard of the Mus^e Calvet is the Mu$^e Requien^
formerly in the old Benedictine abbey (p. 431), but transferred hither
and re-opened in 1902.
Farther on the Rue Joseph Vernet passes (right) the Orand
Seminary (Pi. B, 3) and crosses the Rue de la R^publlque in f^ont
of the Post Office (p. 431). It is continued by the Rue des Lices,
wh ich leads to the College St. Joseph (PI. D, 4). Here are the remains
of the Eglise des Cordeliers, where Petrarch's Laura (p. 431) was
buried. — In the Rue des Teinturiers is th^ Chapelle des Penitent*
Oris (PI. D, 4), with picturejs by P. Parrocel and N. Mignard.
From the College St. Joseph the Rue Philonarde runs to the N.
te the Rue Carr^terie (PI. E, 3), at the beginning of which is an em-
battled Gothic Tower and spire, the remains of an Augustlnian
monastery. Nearly opposite is a Gateway, in the Flamboyant Gothic
style. — St. Symphorien or the Eglise des Carmes (PL E, 2, 3), in an
adjoining square, contains a Martyrdom of St. Symphorien by Ph.
Sauvan, an Adoration of the Magi by Guilhermls, good specimens
of P. Parrocel and N. Mignard, and a fine Renaissance font.
The Rue Carnot leads to the W. from the Rue Carr^terie to
St. Pierre (PL D, 2), a Gothic church of the 14th cent., with a hand-
some facade vrestored) of the 16th. On the door-post is a fine Madonna
VILLENEUVE-LES-AVI6N0N. V.Soute65, 435
by Btmus or Peru of Avignon. On the doors are excellent Re-
naissance walnnt-carvings (covered), by Ant. Volardi of Avignon,
representing the Combat of Michael and Lucifer, St. Jerome , and
the Annunciaitlon.
Iktsrior. The stone organ-loft and the pulpit are in the florid Gothic
style. The latter, by Jacques ifalhe^ is embellished with six marble sta-
taettes from the tomb of John XXII. (Jacques d'Euse; p. 432), second of
the Avignon popes (1316-34). The church is adorned with paintings by
P. Parroeely N. Mignard^ and Simon de Chdlons. Above . the font is a good
bas-relief, and in the aisle are a Holy Sepulchre and a Crucifixion. Some
of the chapels contain modern frescoes, and in one to the left is a Ke-
naissance altar-piece.
Levieax, Simon de Ch&lons, the Mignards, and the Parrocels are
also well represented in the chapels of the Penitents Blancs (PI.
C,3) and the P/nitents Noirs (PI. D, E, 2), to the E. of the prison.
On the right of the Rue de la R^publique is the 14th cent.
Church of St. Didier (PI. C, 3), with a Descent of the Holy Ghost, by
Simon de Chalons (p. 431), and other works of art by Sauvan, P.
Parrocel, and Fr. Laurana. — In the Place St. Didier is a monument
to Theod. Aubanel (1829-86), the 'F^librist' (p. 431). - In the Rue
de la Masse, near this Place, Is the fine late-Renaissance Hotel Crillon.
John Stuart Mill , who died at Avignon in 1873, is buried in a
cemetery to the E. of the town.
Villeneave - Ids - Avignon (tramway from the station , via Pont
d' Avignon, p. 408), which has now only 2735 inhab., was a flourishing
town under the popes of Avignon (14th cent.) and also later, as one of
the frontier-fortresses of France. It still contains a few monuments
of its former prosperity, though most of its score of churches have long
since disappeared. On the bank of the Rhone, opposite the Pont St.
B^n^zet (p. 432), are the Tour de Philippe le Bel and other remains
of the 14th cent, fortifications. Overlooking the town is the ancient
Fort St. Andre, which has a fine enceinte flanked by towers. In the
interior are a convent and several houses inhabited by poor families.
The Pabish Choech (14th cent.) contains some paintings by Avig-
non artists (Betrothal of St. Catharine, St. Bruno, by N. Mignard;
Holy Family, Christ, by Levieux) and others (Tobias, hy Vouet; An-
nunciation, by Ouerdno; Visitation, })y Ph.de Champaigne). In the
sacristy is an ivory figure of the Virgin (16th cent.). Adjoining the
church are Gothic cloisters.
TheHospiOB, in the street opposite the side-portal of the church,
was formerly a convent, And is open to visitors from 9 to 12 and
^om 1 to 4, 5, or 6 (ismall ofl'ering expected). The chapel contains
the Tomb of Innocent VI. (d. 1362), a fine Gothic monument resemb-
ling that of John XXII. (p. 432) and still sheltering a marble statue
of the deceased. — On the first floor is a small Mus^e, containing
pictures mainly of local origin.
Beyond the church the ascent to the fort leads to the right.
Farther on , on the left of the main stareet, are several ancient man-
28*
436 V,Boute66. FONTAINE DE VAUCLUSB. Envirofu
sions. Then, to the right, the ruins of the Carthusian Monaitery
of Vol de Benediction, founded in 1356 hy Innocent VI. (p. 435)
the habitable parts of which are occupied as dwellings. Visitors
may enter the cloisters and corridors that are now used as passages.
Feom Aviosok to Oeqon, 21 M., local branch-line. — 41/2 M. JSarbentane
(p. 437) i 12 M. ChdteauRtnard (6200 inhab.)^ 14 H. Noves (3110 inhab.),
birthplace of Petrarch's Laura (p. 431); 18 M. Plan d" Organ ^ also on the
line to Tarascon (p. 428). — aOVa M. Orgon (town-station). — 21 M. Orgwk
(railway iunction)^ see p. 443.
From Avienon to ArUt and MarseiUet^ see RR. 64, 67 ; to Aix and to
Digne^ see R. 67.
b. Exenrflions from Avignon.
The following pleasant excursion may be made from Ayjgnon to
Aries by travellers who send on tbeir luggage to Aries or who hire a
carriage at St. Remy: to Vaucluse (aee below), thence by rail to CavaOlim
(p. 443), Orgon (p. 4^), and St. Remy (p. 428), then on foot or by carriage,
vi& the Alpines, to L€$ Baux (p. 441) and Furadou (p. 441), and thence
by rail to Mont'M(Vor (p. 441) and to Aries (p. 438).
F&OM Avignon to tbe Fontains de Vauolusb. — Railway to
(15 M.) L^IsU-tur-Sorgue^ and diligenee thence (il/3 fr. there and back \ carr.
3-4 fr.), in connection with the trains from Avignon, to (41/s If .) the village
of VaucliMe^ which is about I/2 H. from the spring. Vaucluse is always
attractive from its assoeiatioas and its situation, but the Fontaine is
interesting only when there is enough water to overflow from the grotto,
which is rarely the case in summer or autumn.
The railway runs to theE. via (3V2 M.) Montfavet, (5V2M.) Mo-
riere8, (8 M.) St. Saturnin, and (10 M.) Qada^e, On a hill to the
left is the ruined Chdteau de Touzon. — 11 V2 M. Thor (2640 inhab.),
on the Sorgue, with a 12th cent. Romanesque church.
15 M. L*I«le-tar - Sorgue (Hdtel de P/trarque et de Laure; St.
Martin), an industrial town with 6266 inhab., has a 17th cent.
church, richly decorated with painting and sculpture and containing
examples of Lacroix, Levieux, N. Mignard, Sauvan, and P. Parrocel.
From L*Isle-snr-Sorgue to Ottrpentrtu and Orange^ see p. 427 ; to Pertuit
and to Voir, see RR. 67, 68.
The road to Vaucluse turns to the left at tiie end of the Oours Sal-
viata (to the right from the station), then^ leaving the road to Carpen-
tras on the left, it crosses a plain, passing ftnally below an aqueduct,
to Vaucluse ('vallis clausa' ; Hdtel de P^trarque et de Laure, well
spoken of),
The*Fontaine de Yftuolufo, immortalized by Petrarch, is situated
V2 M. from tbe village. The spring, 'chiare, fresche, e dolci acque ,
is the source of the Sorgue and rises in a gorge, surrounded by per-
pendicular rocks, 650 ft. high, where it gushes forth from a cavern
(25-30 ft. wide), accessible when the water is less abundant, at which
time the spring issues lower down in numerous streamlets. The
spring owes its origin to the filtration of water in the Ume«tone
plateau which extends to the £. as far as the valley of the Durance.
Its volume varies from 1300 to 26,CK)0 gallons per second, and lower
down it is used in working several factories, Petrarch retired to
this spot in 1337. The ruins on the right bank are thoae of the
chateau of his friend Cardinal de Cabaasole, Bishop of CavaiUon.
of AvignoD. CARPENTRAS. V, Route 65. 437
Tbe rock above the spring may be elimbed in about II/2 br. (fine
view). The ^avens* or pits into which the water filters are also seen here.
Fbom Avignon to Cabfentras (Mont Ventoux). — I6V2 M.
Railway in IV4-IV4 hr. (fares 3 fr., 2 fr. 5, 1 fr. 36 c).
This line diverges from the Lyons railway at (6 M.) Sorgues
(p. 427). — 8V1M. Entraiguts (H6t. Chautard); IOV2 M. Althen-
les'Paluds; 13 M. Menteux, with a ruined papal chateau.
16V2 M. CSarpexLtraa (Hotel de I'Univeta; du Caurs- Michel),
a manufacturing town of 10,800 inhab., on the Auzoriy is the
ancient Carpentoracte. The Avenue d' Avignon, to the right from
the station, leads to the Hdtel Dieu^ or hospital (18th cent.j, in front
of which is a bronze statue of IHshop Malachie d'lnguimb.rt, its
founder, by Daumas (1858). The Rue de la R^publique leads hence
to the left to the Eglise St. Siffrein, the former cathedral, rebuilt
in the Gothic style in 1504-19.
Intbrior. In the choir are galleries of the 17th century. Below that
on the left side is a fine triptych on a gold ground. Round the apse are
paintings by Italian artists of scenes from the life of St. Sifirein, who was
Bishop of Garpentras from 566 to 670; also a Madonna by Trevisani. The
stained glass in the apse dates from the 15th century. The gallery on
the S. side is used on certain days for the exhibition of the St. Clou or
St. Mors, i. e. a bit of Oonstantine*s bridle made of one or two nails
from the True Gross. The chapel of the Virgin, to the left of the entrance,
is richly decorated. The pulpit dates from 1784. — To the left of the choir,
and reached through the sacristy, are the remains of the Old Churchy including
a dome of the iOth century. — The Festival of St. Sififrein is celebrated
on Nov. 26th and 37th, with special music, composed in part by Garpen-
trafso (SAiasar Genet; d. 1535), a rival of Palestrina.
Adjoining the church is the Palais de Justice, the old bishop's
palace (1640)^ in the court of which is a small Roman Triumphal
Arch from the time of Tiberius ( 1st cent, of our era), with decor-
ations like the arch at Orange , but without frieze or attic. —
Farther on in the same direction, following the Rue de I'Ev^ch^,
we reach the Porte d' Orange^ with a crenelated tower of the 14th
cent., 120 ft. high.
The Egliie de VOhstrvance, in the N.E. part of the town (view),
was built in the 16th cent, and restored in 1882. — We may now
return to the Place de rHdpital by the Boulevard du Mus^e, where,
on the left (No 11), is the Muaee (open on Sun., 2-4, and shown to
strangers on other days also), containing a collection of antiquities
and a small picture-gaUery, besides a library.
From Garpentras to Orange and V UU-tur-Sorgue^ see p. 437. — An
omnibus runs from Garpentras to (26V2 H) Nvon$ (p. 425) via (I6I/2 M.)
Vaison (p. 437).
Xont Yentovtx (6370 ft.) is new usually ascended from Ste. Colombe
(hotel), llVs M. from Garpentras via (9Va M.) the little town of B^doin
(Hotel du Mont-Ventoux). From Ste. (3olombe a road ascends to (11 M.)
the summit. Omnibus to B^doin, 1 fr. ; to the summit and back, 7 fr. —
This mountain, one of the last ramifications of the Alps on the S.W.,
forms a widely conspicuous. Isolated pyramid, and affords a very fine
*Panorama. As its name indicates, it is subject to very violent winds.
— On the barren summit, which is snow-capped for the greater part of the
year, are an ObBervatoryj a small IfoUl (open July 1st to Sept. 28th), and
a Chapel^ visited by pilgrims on Sept. 14th.
438
66. Aries and its Environs.
Railway Stations. Grande Gare (beyond PI. £,1; buffet)^ ou the main
line; Gare de Fontvieille (beyond PI. F, 1), for the Salon line (p. 441)-, Oare
de la Gamargue (beyond PI. A, 1, 2>, for the lines to Stes. Maries (p. 443),
Salin-de-Oiraud (p. 442), and Nimes (p. 442).
Hotels. Hot. du Fobum (Pl. a; C, 3), E. 21/2-4, B. II/2. dej. 3, D. 4fr. ;
Hot. du Nord (Pl.b), R. 21/2-4, B. I1/4, d^j. 21/2, D. 3 fr., both in the
Place du Forum. — Oafts in the Place du Forum.
Post and Telegraph Office (PI. D, 3), Place de ia B^publiqne.
CabSi 1 fr. per drive, 21/4 fr. per hour.
Aries is a town of 24,567 irihab. on the left bank of the Rhone,
near the point where it bifurcates and forms the Gamargue delta
(p. 441). On the right bank is the suburb of Trinquetaille, connected
with the town by an iron bridge.
Aries, the Arelate of the ancients, the origin of which is doubtful, was a
rival of Marseilles under Julius Geesar. It soon became embellished with
numerous buildings and was called ^the Gallic Rome". Cionstantine often
resided here and connected the commercial quarters of the right bank, now
Trinquetaille , with the other side hy a stone bridge (PI. D, 1). In the
Roman period the population rose fo 100,(XX). Christianity is said to have
been introduced here by Trophimus, a disciple of St. Paul. Under Honorius
the prefect of Gallia resided at Aries. The town remained independent
for some time after the barbaric invasions, then was the capital of a
kingdom (829), on the decay of which it became a republic (1150-1251).
Finally submitting to Charles d^Anjou, Count of Provence, it thenceforward
shared the fate of that province, which was annexed to France in 14B2.
Aries. is a port of some importance, although 27 H. from the mouth of the
Rhone. — The women of Aries are famed for their good looks (G^reek,
Roman, and Moorish types) and tasteful costumes, with their ^ehap6ile\
From the first-mentioned two stations we reach the town vi4 the
Place Jjamartine (PI. E, 1), named in honour of the poet, to whom
Aries owes its inclusion in the railway-system in 1842.
Near this point, on its N. and E. sides, Aries still retains part
of its Roman Ramparts, which are skirted hy pleasant boulevards ;
but in the interior the streets are narrow and tortuous.
At the point where the street leading direct to the town from the
Place forks is the Fontaine Pichot (PI. E, 1), erected in 1887 to
Am^d^e Pichot (1796-1877), author and editor of the *Revue Bri-
tannique', a native of Aries.
Farther on, to the left, is the *Ampliifheatre (Les Arenes ; PI. E, 3),
one of the largest of the kind extant in France, but not in such good
preservation as that of Ntmes (p. 414). It is about 500 yds. in circum-
ference; the longer axis is 150 yds., the shorter 117 yds. long. This
arena, which probably dates from the 1st or 2nd cent, of our era,
possessed five corridors and forty -three tiers of seats, holding
26,000 spectators. The two stories of 60 arches , the lower being
Doric, the upper Corinthian, present a most imposing aspect. The
entrance is on the N. side, opposite the Rue du St. Esprit (fee).
The Intbkior (custodian, Rond-Point-des-Arenes 6^ fee Vj fr.) was
formerly occupied by a number of dwellings tenanted by poor families,
removed in 1825-30. In the 8th cent, the amphitheatre was converted
into a stronghold, three of the four towers of which are still standing.
The W. tower commands a pleasing survey of the neighbourhood. Bull-
fights are now held here on Sun. in summer.
Cathedral. ARLES. V, Route 66, 439
The Boman Theatre (PI. D, 3), to the right beyond the amphi-
theatre and the Tour des Cordeliers, is in a very dilapidated condition.
It is said to have been begun under Augustus, though not finished till
the 3rd cent. ; its destruction began in the 5th cent., and its materials
were used in the construction of several churches. In front of the
stage-wall was a colonnade, of which two columns, one of 'Affricano',
the other of Carrara marble, are still standing. This theatre was richly
decorated, and numerous works of art found here are preserved in the
Museum (p. 440). The Venus of Aries, in the Louvre at Paris, was
discovered here in 1651. — Beyond the theatre is a Public Garden.
The Rue de la Oalade (PI. D, 3) leads from the N. W. corner of
the theatre to the Place de la Repuhlique (PI. D, 3), where are the
other principal sights. In the centre is a Roman Obelisk, in grey
granite from the Esterel (p. 461), without hieroglyphics, belonging
originally to an ancient circus at the S.W. extremity of the town
(PI. A, 4). The base is a modern fountain , with four bronze lions
by Dantan (1829). The total height of the monument is 67 ft., that
of the obelisk itself 49 ft.
The ancient cathedral of *St. Trophimus (Pl.D, 3), to the E., was
founded, it is said, on the ruins of the Roman prsetorium and con-
secrated in 606. It has , however , been several times rebuilt , and
the choir was added in 1430; while the whole church was restored
in the 19th century. It is In the Romanesque style, with a tower
over the crossing. The rich *Portal, of the 12th cent., is supported
by six columns, resting in part upon lions, between which are saints
and Scriptural subjects; above it, Christ as Judge of the world.
The Imtbsios is plain. The aisles are covered with quadripartite vault-
ing, and their walls are hung with old tapestry. Above the transeptal arch
is aStoning of St. Stephen, the chef d'oBuvre (1614)of/Y7)<ontu« (p. 446), and in
the large chapel to the right is an Adoration of the Magi, by the same master.
The dark chapel to the right of the apse contains a Holy Sepulchre (16th
cent.), with ten figures. At the altar is a Christian sarcophagus, with a
medieeval one on each side of it ; the chapel adjoining the transept contains
a Christian sarcophagus , above which is a relief of the Assumption. —
The Emperor Frederick Barbarossa was crowned in this church in 1178.
A flight of steps to the right of the choir, beyond the sacristy
(notice), leads to the * Cloisters, with round and pointed arches and
remarkable capitals, dating from various epochs. The N. side is
from the 12th century, the K, side dates from 1221, the W. side (the
most beautiful) from 1359, and the S. side ft-om the 16th century.
The cloisters may also be entered from the Rue du Cloftre.
Traces of the Roman Praetorium were discovered in 1898 beside
the former Archiepiscopal Residence, between the cathedral and
the cloisters.
The "ICaBeiim ( Musee Lapidaire ; PI. C, D, 3), occupying the an-
cient church of St. Anne, opposite St, Trophimus, is particularly
^ich in antique and Christian marble sarcophagi , ornamented with
has-reliefs, brought from the Allscamps (p. 440). It is open to the
public on Sun., 10-12, but may be visited on other days (9-5) also.
440 V. Routt 66, ARLES. Museum,
Mxm6€ Lapidaire. To the left of the entrance : Antique granite pillar,
brought from the port and furrowed by the hawsars of veisels; it bears
an inscription in honour of Emp. Gonstantine. — Left Aisle. Ist Bay :
Group of Medea with her children*, Olive harvest from a Roman sarco-
phagus. — 2nd Bay : Sarcophagus of Messianus (4th cent.). — The drd Bay
contains the finest Christian sarcophagi, including (to the right) that of
St. Goneordius, with Christy the Apostles, and the Holy Women, and the Pas-
sage of the Red Sea (above). — 4th Bay. Other Christian tombs, two of them
with medallions representing the deceased. — 5th Bay : Antique figure of a
dancing woman (mutilated); sarcophagus with the Miracle of the loaves,
cover of the tomb of St. Hilary, Bishop of Aries (439-449); altar of Apollo
from the theatre; above, Apollo and the Muses. — To the left of the choir,
*Ideal head of a woman (so-called Livia), upon an altar to the Bona Dea.
— In the Choir are a small altar to Apollo (not to Leda), with swanM,
laurels, and palms; also architectural fragments and small antiques, such
as vases, glass, bronees, medals, jewels, and terracottas. The large gold
bead in the glass-caae to the left should be noticed. ~ Bight Aislb. 6th
Bay (on the left as we return) : the Persian god Mithras (head wantine),
with the signs of the Zodiac; the original pedestal of the obelisk (p. 439);
mutilated figure of a dancing woman (antique). — 7th Bay : among others,
to the left, a sarcophagus with the raising of Jairus's daughter; opposite,
hunting-scenes (2nd cent.) ; colossal head of Augustus. — Sth, 9th, and 10th
Bays: Roman and Christian sarcophagi and other fragments. — In the
Nave : to the right , a sarcophagus with musical instruments ; two re-
cumbent figures of Silenus, from the theatre. In the middle is a large sar-
cophagus with reliefs from the myth of Hippolytos.
The Mns^e Arl6«ien (Museon ArUxten)^ founded in 1897, is a local ethno-
graphical collection due to the initiative of Mistral, the Provencal poet. It
occupies the second floor of the tribunal next door to the above ancient
church, and is entered by a small door to the left of the &th Bay of the
Mus^e Lapidaire. It contains interesting illustrations of Provencal
customs, furniture, industries, costumes, ete.
The Hotel de VUle (P1.D,3), close to the cathedral, dates from
1673-75, except the clock- tower and the bronze figure of Mars
that surmounts it, which are of the middle of the 16th century.
The flat arch of the vestibule is curious.
The Place du Forum (PL C, D, 3), a few min. to the left, beyond
the Hotel de Ville , is the ancient Roman forum , and is still the
centre of the town, with the hotels and the principal caf^s. To the
left of the Hotel du Nord are two antique granite columns with the
remains of a Corinthian pediment.
The Palace of Constantine {Pl.D^2\ near the Rhone, is sbutiu
by houses on the N., but may be seen from the quay. Built by Ooii-
stantine the Great in 306-330, it was occupied by the rulers of the
country till the 13th century. — In the former Grand-Prieur^, close
by, is the MuBee B^attu (PI. D, 2), a small picture-gallery (apply to
the concierge), which contains works by old masters and patntiugs
by R^attu of Aries (1760-1833), founder of the collection.
The Gothic church of 8t, Antoine (Pi. Dj2) contains in the rhoir
a large and richly adorned wall-decoration of the 17th cent., and to
the right of the entrance a metal font, supported on oxen.
The Alisoamps or Champs-Elys^es (comp. PI. F, 4), the ancient
Roman burying-ground, were consecrated for Christian sepulture by
St. Trophimus. In the middle ages this ceriietery enjoyed such cel-
ebrity that bodies were brought to it from great distances, and 0ante
Environs. ARLES. V, Route 66. 441
mentions it in his Inferno (IX. 112). Later it was neglected, themon'
uments destroyed and scattered, and the ground parcelled out. The
remaining sarcophagi have, however, been collected, and most of them
placed along a promenade called the Alice des Tomheaux. They are
numerous, but unomamented, the most interesting being now in the
museum and the cathedral. At the entrance is a small chapel, with
a relic of the old gate of the cemetery. The monument near the
middle, to the right, was erected in honour of magistrates who
fell victims to the plague in 1720. At the farther end are the ruins
of the Church of St. Honor at , rebuilt in the 11th cent., in the
Romanesque style, and left unfinished. It has an octagonal toweri
Fbom Arlbs to Sai.011 (Mont- Major ; Let Baux)^ 281/2 M., railway (Gare
de Fonvieillc, p. 438) in iV4-2V4 br. (fares 5 fr. 15, 3 fr. 50, 3 fr. 35 c). —
This braneh-line runs to tbe S. of the Alpines. — 31/2 M. Mont -Major.
Above the station rises a rock crowned by the ruins of the famous * Abbey
of Moni- Major ^ founded in the 6tb, but rebuilt in the ll-14th centuries.
The large square Tower (1869), 86 ft. high (fine view), the Church, and its
Cloisters are especially worthy of notice. Close by is the curious Chapel
of 8te. Croix (1019), and, near the tower, a Subterranean Chapel. — 51/2 M.
Pimtvieille, a little town with important stone -quarries. — 9 M. Paradou^
3 M. to tbe 8. of Les Banx. — !«■ Bans (H^el Monte Carlo; guide
3-10 fr.), with less than 350 inhab., was in the middle ages a flourish-
ing town with ten times as many, and was tbe capital of one of the most
powerful eountships in Provence. The town owes its chief interest to the
fact that its huge Castle^ now in ruins, and many of the houses are hewn
out of the rock on which they stand, so that walls, towers, and even
whole buildings are actual monoliths, hollowed out, and quite independ-
ent of each other. The town retains part of its Ramparts, also hewn
out of the roek; and some of its houses have fine 15th cent, and Renais-
sance facades. The former Galvinist Church (1571) bears the motto ^post tene-
bras lux'. There is a fine view from the hill above the castle. — St. Retny
(p. 438) lies 7Va M. to the N. of Les Baux. — IO1/2 M. Mautsane, the next
station, is about 2V2 H- from Les Baux. — 14 M. Mouriks; 19 H. Aureille.
From (24 M.) Byguihres (Hdt. Payan: 2336 inhab.) a branch -line runs via
Lamanon to (39 M.) Meyrargues (p. 444). We cross the Canal de Craponne
and the Canal des Alpines. — 381/2 M. Salon (p. 443).
From Arlbs to Lunbl (MontpeUier), 28 H., railway in 1V4-3V4 hrs. (fares
5 fr. 5, 3 fr. 40, 3 fr. 30 c). — This line crosses the Grand- Rhdne, or prin-
cipal arm ot the river, and traverses the N. extremity of the Jle de la
Camargue, the flat delta of the estuary of the Rhone, which is continual-
ly being added to by the alluvial deposits of the main arm. Its total
area is about 300 sq. M., but a considerable proportion is occupied by marshes
and shallow lagoons {Etang de Valcaris, the largest, 10 sq.M.) and by vast
arid plains. Drainage and reclamation are actively carried on, and some
parts are planted with vines, which, however, prodnoe wine of poor
quality, best adapted for blending with Spanish wines. There are also
rich pastures, over which roam flocks and herds of half-wild sheep, cattle,
and horses. The He de Camargue is reached also by the lines to Les
Saintes-Maries and to the salt-works at Giraud (see p. 443). — 7Va M. La
Camargue. We cross the Petit-Rhdne and the Canal de Beaueaire (p. 406).
11 M. St. Oilles (Hdtel du Midi), a town of 6110 inhab., owes its
origin to an abbey founded by St. iEgidius (St. Gilles). Pope Clement IV.
(d. 1368) was bora here. The Church has a 12th cent. *Portal, most lavishly
decorated with marble and stone bas-reliefs, of great delicacy but un-
fortunately much mutilated. This portal recalls in its sj'rangement and
Ktyle the portal of St. Trophimus at Aries, but it is even richer and has
three bays. The rest of the church was only partly built after the orig-
inal plan and style. A portion of the crypt is of the 12th cent. ; tbe sa-
cristy dates from the original church. Behind the chureh is a tower eon-
442 V, Route 67. CAVAILLON.
Uining a rery skilfully constructed spiral staircase, called the Vis ie St.
OiUes^ and in the neighbourhood Is a Romanesque House^ recently restored.
20 M. Le Gailar (p. 418). At (24 M.) Aimargues (Cheval Blanc, plain) we
change carriages for Aigues-Mortes (see p. 418). — 38 H. Lunel^ see p. 369.
From Arlbs to St. LotJis-DU-RnOuBi, 25V2 ^-t railway in ll/4-lVjhr.
(fares 4 fr. 60, 3 fr. 10 c, 2 fr.). — This line crosaes the Canal de Boue^ and
follows the left bank of the Orand-Rhdne through a marshy plain, between
the Camargue (p. 441) and the Crau (p. 428). Six small stations are passed.
To the right is the Salin de Giraud (salt-works).
251/a M. St. Lams-du-Shdne (Qr. H6t. Si. Louis) ^ a small place of
recent origin, with about 1600 inhab. , has a good harbour at the mouth
of the Rhone. The Rhone is said to deposit yearly more than 22 million
cubic yds. of alluvium at its mouth. A tower, built in 1737 on the sea-
shore, is now 41/2 ^* inland, and four signal-towers along the course of
the river have similarly been rendered useless since the time of the Romans.
From Ablbs to Lbs Saimtbs- Maries, 24 M., local railway across the
Camargue (see above) in I8/4 hr. (fares 3 fr. 90, 2 fr. 35 c,). Return-tickets
for Les Saintes-Maries are issued on Sun. and Thurs. during the bathing
season for 1 fr. 50 c. — Starting from the suburb of Trinquetaille, this
line runs to the W. of the Etang de Yatcares and skirts the Petit-RMne^
Farther on a branch diverges to the SaUn-de-Qiraud^ 24 M. from Aries.
24 M. Les Salutes - Karies (ffdt. de la Poste)^ a small and once pros-
perous town on the Mediterranean, formerly on an island in the Rhone,
owes its name to Mary of Bethany, Mary, the mother of James, and Mary
Magdalen, who, according to tradition, landed here accompanied by Sars
their servant, Lazarus, and St. Maximin (p. 448). The Churchy containing
the relics of these saints, is an interesting edifice, rebuilt and fortified in
the 12th century. On May 24-2dth it is the object of one of the most
ancient and popular pilgrimages in Provence, and there is another of
less importance on Oct. 22nd. Many gipsies come here in honour of
the black servant Sara. — Aigues-Mortes (p. 418) is about 20 M. distant.
From Arles to KImbs, 2OI/2 M., railway in IVr^Vs hr. (fares 3 fr. 40 c,
2 fr.) This line starts from the Gare de la Camargue (p. 438) and crosses
the Petit-Rhdne. Principal stations: 2 M. Fourquis; 3 M. Bellegarde; 15 M.
Bouillargues ; 16Va ^* vaissargues. — 201/) M. Nimes^ see p. 413.
67. From Avignon to Aix (Marseilles) vi& Pertnis.
671/2 M. Railway in 4-41/2 hrs. (fares 12 fr. 40, 8 fr. 30, 5 fr. 40 c). -
From Aix to Marseilles, 18 M., in I-I1/2 hr. (fares 3 fr. 35, 2 fr. 25, I fr.
50 c.). Best views at first to the left, but beyond Cavaillon to the right.
Avignon, see p. 430. — To (15 M.) L'Me-aur-Sorgtu^ see p. 436.
Farther on , to the left, in the distance, is seen the rocky amphi-
theatre of the Fontaine de Vaucluse (p. 436). We cross the Coulon.
— 2OV2 M. Cavaillon CJ5w#«e,- Hotel Arnaud) , with 9400 inhab.,
is the Cabellio of the Romans , and has the remains of an ancient
Triumphal Arch And an interesting 12-I3thcent. Cathedral, mainly
Romanesque in style.
From Cavaillon to Dionb, 791/2 M., in 5 hrs. (fares 15 fr. 20, 9 fr. 55,
6 fr. 30 c). The line ascends the valley of the CotOon to the N.E. — 31/3 H .
Bonweux. The little town, 3 M. to the S., retains its mediaeval foHifieations
and has a 12th cent, church. Between this and the next station tb«
Coulon is crossed by the Poni Julien, a well-preserved Roman bridge, which
is perhaps even older than the time of Julian. — 90 M. Apt (BAUl d«
Louvre), with 5850 inhab., on the Coulon, is the Apia Julia of the ancients.
The Cathedral, dating from the 10-llth cent., though afterwards enlarged
and altered, contains interesting works of art and has an 11th «ent. crypt.
About 0 M, to the S. is Auribeau , whence we may ascend (1 ^/ji hr) ***-»
MANOSQUE. V, Route 68, 443
Grand Luberon (3690 ft.)^ the highest peak of the ehain separating the
valleys of the Coulon and the Durance. — 32 M. Cireste and (36 M.)
Reillanne are two old towns, with some interesting rains. The Largue is
crossed several times. — 45 M. St. Maime- Dauphin^ whence a branch-line
diverges to (4l/a M.) Foroalquier (Lardeyret; Laehaud), with 3000 inhab.,
the ancient Forum Calearittm^ in the Basses Alpes. — The line now passes
through a short tunnel and emei^es in the valley of the Durance. —
49 M. Volx^ see below. Thence to (6dM.) St. Auban^ see below; and from
St. Auban to (791/3 M.) Diffne^ see p. 403.
From Cavaillou to Hikamas ( Marseilles )^ 22V2 M. , railway in
I-IV2 hr. (fares 4 fr. 5, 2 fr. 70, 1 fr. 75 c). — Beyond (21/2 M.) Cheval-
Blanc (see below) the line turns to the S. and crosses the Durance. —
31/3 M. Orgon (HAt. de Londres)^ a small town with a ruined castle and re-
mains of fortifications. Lines to Avignon and Tarascon, see pp. 436, 428. —
At (IO1/2 M.) Lamanon we join the line from Aries to Meyrargues (p. 444). —
15 M. Salon (ffdtelde la Posie), with 10,936 inhab., was the birthplace of Adam
de Craponne (1519-59) , the engineer who constructed the first irrigation-
canals in the Crau (p. 488). The Church of St. Lawrence^ an ancient collegi-
ate chapel of the 14th cent., contains the tomb of IT^ostradamus , the cel-
ebrated astrologer (d. 1566). ~ About 31/2 M. to the S.E. is Lan^on , near
which is a Roman camp surrounded by walls with towers. - Line to Aries,
see p. 441. — 221/2 M. Miramas (p. 488).
The main line now approaches the Durance j and ascends its
right bank. 23 M. Cheval-Blanc (line to Miramas, see above). To
the right, on the heights, are two ruined castles. — 30 M. Merindol.
About 2 M. to the W. is the highly picturesque Gorge du Regalon,
parts of which are canons or clefts, 3D0 ft. deep, and barely wide enough
to permit a passage.
37 M. Lauris, with a chateau of the 16th century. — 4OV2 M.
Cadenet (Hdt, Anonge)^ a little town dominated by a ruined chiteau.
Various ancient relics have been discovered here, and the church
contains a large ancient basin now used as a font. Cadenet was
the birthplace of F^icien David (1794-1877), the composer, and of
A.ndr^ Etienne (1774-1838), the heroic *Drummer Boy of Arcole'.
The latter is commemorated in a statue by Amy. — 44 M. Villelaure.
48 M. Pertuis, For this town and continuation of the journey,
see p. 444.
68. From Grenoble (Lyons) to Marseilles.
189 M. Railway in 11 hrs. (fares 34 fr. 15, 23 fr. 5, 15 fr. 5 c.). L To
^w, 171 M., in 91/2-101/4 hrs. (fares 30 fr. 90, 20 fr. 85, 13 fr. 60 c).
QrenobUy see p. 350. To (108V'2 M.) St. Auban, see RR. 58b, 6L
We leave the line to Digne on the left and continue to descend
the right hank of the Durance. On the opposite bank are curiously
shaped limestone rocks, called the Capucins des Mees, visited from
(11272 M.) Peyruis-les-Mees. — 124 M. Villeneuve. — 124V2 M.
Volx; lines to Avignon via Apt, and to Forcalquier, see above.
129 V2 M. Hanosque (*Hdtel Pascal ; Hotel de Versailles), a com-
mercial town with 5265 inhab., about 1 M. to the N.W of the rail-
way, retains some remains of its old fortifications, including the
Porte Sauneri^ (14th cent.), next the station, and the Porte Soubeyran.
444 V, Rvute 68. PERTtJlS. Frcm QrenobU
The Church of St. Sauveur has a fine iron spire; and in Notre- Dame
is a statue of the Virgin, dating from the 10-1 1th century.
A diligenee (3 fr.) plies henee to (I41/2 M.) GrAonlz (H&t. de V EUMiue%aent)^
un the Ferdofi, with a i3th cent. G<uUe^ built by the Templars, and a Bath
Establishment. In the neighbourhood are some eavema, formerly inhabited.
— Another vehicle (4 fr.) plies in 3^/4 brs. to (I31/2 M.) Bias (mui de*
AlpeSy unpretending)., the Albect Reiorwn of the Romans, with interesting
Roman remains. — About 8I/2 M. farther in the same direction is Honstieri-
Ste-Xarie iHdtel Fournier^ poor), noted for its fayence in the 17-18th cent..,
situated at the foot of lofty rocks between which a gilded star is suspended
by means of an iron chain, an ex-voto offering of an ancient knight.
141 M. Mirabeauj with the ancestral chateau of the Mirabeau
family. Beyond a tunnel the line enters the plain.
151 VjM. Pertuis (Buffet i Hotel dv Court; Hot. de Provence),
with 4910 infaab., is the junction for the line to Avignon via Ca-
vaillon (R.'67). It has two ancient towers (13-14th cent.), a tastei^l
modern fountain, and a church with some interesting sculptures.
About 3H. to the K. (omn.) lies La Taur-d^AiyueSy which has a fine
ruined chateau in the Eenaissanee style, with a mediSBTal keep.
We recross the Durance. — 155 M. Meyrarguet (675 ft. ; H6t.
Terminus), with an interesting ch&teau, 1^4 M. to the left.
From Mbtrargues to Draguxokak (Grasse^ Nict)^ 61 H., narrow-gauge
lailway in 4-5 hrs. (fares 8 fr. 25, 6 fr. 5 e.). Interesting scenery. — 26Vs V-
Sarjols (997 ft. ; PonUd'Or or Rottvier)^ an industriarl town (tanneries) with
2418 inhabitants. — 42 M. Salernes (694 ft.), another industriai place
(2700 inhab.), producing terracotta tiles known as Homette8\ To the right
18 a ruined chateau (12th cent.). — 51 M. Lorgues (Poste), with 3300 inhab.,
has large brick-works, a- fountain of the 15th cent., and a 14th cent, gtiie-
way. Olive-trees are now abundant. — 56i/t M. Ftayosc (3514 inhab.). —
61 tf. Draguignan (buffet ^ p. 459).
From Meyrargues to Lamanon and EyuuiireSy see p. 441.
157 M. Reclavier. Near the Afon^ Ste. Victoire ('Mons Victoria'
3310 ft.), to the left, Marius defeated the Teutons in B. C. 102.
— 16272 M. Vendles; to the left are seen the arches of the Canal
d'Aix or Canal du Verdon. — I64V2 M. Puy-Ricard. Beyond
(166 M.) La Calade is a tunnel nearly V2 M. long. — 168 M. Fey-
Blanc.
171 M. Aix. — ^otela. Neorb-Goste (PI. a^ D,3), Gours Mirabeau 33,
R. 21/2-6, B. 1, dej. 21/2, D. 8, pens, from 8, omn. 1/2 f'i Mui^b Noirb (PI.
b; E, 3), Rue Lacenede, R. 2V2, D. 3 fr. ; du Lowvhb (PI, cj C, 3), Rue
de la Masse 1, R. 2-3, D. 21/2 tv.\ du Palais (Pi. d ; B, 7), Rue Chasiel. —
*6r. Hot. Sbxtius. at tbe Bath Establishment (PI. B,G,1),R. 3-5, B. l.,d^j.3,
D. 31/2 , pens. 8 fr., omn. 60 e. — Buffti at the station. — Oafte. Oritniai^
etc., in the Gours Mirabeau. — Boths at the Bstablishment, V4-I fr* -^
Post Office (PI. D, 3|, Rue du Lyc^e. — Churches usually closed l2-3 p. m.
Aix (655 ft.)^ with 28,913 inhab., the former capital of Provence.
is the seat of an archbishop, and contains a uniyersity and an Ecole
des Art et Metiers.
Aix is the Aquae Sextiae of the Romans, their oldest colony in Oaul,
and owed its name Jointly to its thermal waters (see p. 44o) and the Consul
Sextius CaWinus, by whom it was colonised in B. G. 133. In 109 Marias
defeated the Germans in the neighbouring plains (see above). ScAreely
any remains are now left of the monuments with which Aix was embel-
lished before the invasions of the barbarians. Recovering slowly from
to MarsHUes. AIX. V. Route 68, 445
the latter, it became the eapital of Provenee, with an elegant and literary
court speaking a polished Provencal tongue. It was annexed to the French
erown in 1481 , and in 1536 fell into the power of Charles V. , who pro-
claimed himself King of Aries and Provence, but was obliged to evacuate
it two months later. Aix also suffered ftojp. religious disturbances in
the 16|h and even in the 18th century. It is noted for its olive-oil ; also
for its cali»»on» (almond cakes) and hiscotim.
The street to the left at tli« fork of th« road near the station leads
to the Place de la Rotonde (PI. C, 3), In which Is the fine Fontaine,
de la Rotonde, decorated with statues of Justice , Commerce , and
Art, by Ramns, Chabaud, and Ferrat. Here, to the right, flanked
by figures of Industry and Science by Trupheme, begins the Cours
Mirabeau (PI. G, D, E, 3) , a shady promenade between the old and
the new town. It contains three other fountains , the Fontaine des
Seuf Canons, the Fontaine Chaude, with hot mineral water, and
the Fontaine du Roi Ren/ (PI. £, 3)^ with a marble statue, by David
d'Angers (1822), of Reu^ of Anjou, tbe 'bon rol' and friend of the
troubadours (1408-80).
The Rue Thiers, farther on, to the left, leads to the Place du Palais
with the modern Palais de Justice (PI. D, 2), occupying the site of
the palace of the counts of Provence. In the Place dies Precheurs
(P1.D, E, 2), adjoining tbe Place du Palais, is a Fountain with an
obelisk, and medallions of Sextius Calvinus (p. 444), Charles III.,
last sovereign count of Provence, Louis XV., and Louis XVIII., last
titulary count.
Near it, to the N.E. , stands the fine Church of La Made-
leine (PI. E,2), of 1703, with a modern facade in the Renaissance
style. Among its numerous ancient pictures are an Annunciation at-
tributed to Diirer, a Martyrdom of St. Cyprian by J)e Crayer, etc. —
The street to the right of the churcb leads to the well-equipped Ecole
des Arts et Metiers (PL F, 2; 300 students). To the left of the Cours
des Arts et Metiers is the public Jardin Ramb(iud (PI. E, F, 1).
In the Boul.Carnot, leading to the S.E., is the Petit Seminaire
(PI. F,2), and at the end of tbe Boul. St. Louis, leading to the N.W.,
stands the Fontaine Qranet, beyond which is a large Normal Schoot
(PI. D, E, 1). — The BouL Notre Dame continues hence to the W.,
passing near the curious Monument of Jos. Sec (PL C, 1), to the
Etabllssement Thermal (p. 446).
The *Cathedeal op St. Sauveub (PL C, 1), in the N. quarter of
the old town, dates in its oldest part from the 11th cent., but was
added to in the 13th (choir), 14th (tower and one aisle), and 17tb
cent, (the other aisle), so tbat the original nave Is now the S. aisle.
The * Doors (1505-8) of the curious portal are protected by shutters,
opened on applicfitlon. The bas-reliefs represent Prophets and Sibyls.
Imtbbiok. To the right, a Baptistery (6th cent.), with eight antique
columns from a temple of Apollo which stood on tliia site. In th« nave
are two triptychs (eljosed), one by an unknown artist, the other (^The
Burning Bush, with King Rene, Queen Jeanne de Laval, and an Annun<
elation), by Nic. Fromtnt of Avignon. To the left. Unbelief of St. Thomas,
446 V, Route 68. ATX. From Qrmohle
by L. Finsonius of Bruges (1613) , a pupil of Garavaggio. In the choir is
some fine *Tape8tr|r of 1511.
Adjoining the cathedral on the S. is a Romanesque Cloister, and
beside it is the Archbishop's Palace, both containing Interesting
works of art. Opposite the latter is the University (^Facolt^ de
Droit' ; PI. C, 1 ; 850 students) , with a Bust of N, de Peiresc (1680-
1637), a noted patron of letters, art, and science, in front of it.
We now return towards the centre of the town, near which lies
the Hdtel de Ville (PI. C,2), of the 17th cent., with a tower of 1505.
In the court is a statue, by Fr. Truph^me, of Mirabeau, and on the
staircase one of Marshal Villars, Crovernor of Provence, by Coustou.
The Library, founded in the 18th cent, by the Marquis de M^janes,
contains about loO,OOOvols. and 1230 MSS., including King Ren6*8
prayer-book, illuminated by himself, and a missal of 1422. Visitors
are admitted daily, except Sun. and Mon., 9-11 and 2-5 in summer,
1-4 and 8-10 in winter. Closed Aug. 15th to Oct. 15th.
In the same place are the Com Market (PI. C, D, 2) and a Fountain
of 1755, surmounted by an ancient column found near Aiz iu 1626.
The Thermal Establishment lies at the N.W. angle of the old
town (PI. B, C, 1). Only a few substructures now reknain of the Ro-
man baths. The waters are not highly charged, but are remarkable for
their heat (93-97** Fahr.) and resemble those of Plombieres. — In the
garden is the fine Tour de Toureluco (11th cent.), the only relic
of the old fortifications of the town; it is now a reservoir.
In the Cours Sextius, to the right as we return firom the Thermes,
is the Church of St, Jean-Baptiste (PI. B, 2; 17th cent.); and in the
Rue Espariat, leading from the Place de la Rotonde, is the Church of
the St. Esprit or of St. JMme (PI. 0, 3 ; 18th cent.), with a triptych
(1505) attributed to Francia. Opposite is a tower of 1494.
From the middle of the Cours Mirabeau the Rue du Lyc^e leads
to the S. to the huge Lycee Mignet (PI. D,4), finished in 1884. To
the £., near the end of the Rue Cardinale, is the 13th cent. Church
of St. Jean-de' Malte (PI. B,3, 4), with a lofty stone spire of the
14- 15th centuries. In the left transept is the fine *Tomb of
Alphonse II., Count of Provence (d. 1209), recently restored. The
church also contains some good ancient paintings, mostly by French
artists. — The adjoining building, the old Commandery of St. John,
now contains the Mus^e (PI. £, 4).
The*Jtfw«^«, founded in 1821, open on Sun. and Thurs., 12-4 and
to strangers on other days also , comprises antiquities , sculptures,
and paintings. Explanatory labels are attached to most of the ex-
hibits, and there are catalogues of the antiquities, sculptures, and
curiosities (1882; 4 tr.) and of the paintings (1900; 1 fr.).
The OsouHD Floor is o«eupied by the AtvHquitiet^ Objects of Natural
History^ Modem and RenaisMmoe Sculptures^ and Platter Oaste.
FiBST Floor. The paintings by Old Masters are in the three rooms
to the left. The principal works attributed to special artists are here
mentioned , but" there are also a considerable number of valuable paint-
to Marseilles. AIX. V. Route 68. 447
ings among those not identified with partienlar artists. — Room III. Italian
£lebool. 457. Preii^ Martyrdom of St. Catharine; to the left, Caravaggio^
St. Paul the Hermit. Left side as we return: 508. Lombard School^ Ex-
pulsion of Hagar; 469. -Sr*6. del Piombo (?), Head; 465. Giordano (?), Eape
of Helen; 481, 482. SaMoferratOy Madonnas; 474. BcusanOy Pilgrims to Em-
maus; Ouerdno^ Vision of St. Theresa; 471. Maratti^ Adoration of the
Magi ; 532. Unknowi Artist (17th cent.) , Monk in ecstasy ; 443. Caravaggio^
Salome. — 458. School of the Garracci^ Children playing. — Venetian School^
507. Martyrdom of St. Cecilia, 494. St. Sehaslian; Boltraffio (?), Adoration of
the Child; 472. Parmeggianino., Madonna, Christ, and St. Anna; 462. Crespi^
Aunnneiation ; 476. Preti (?) , Mary Magdalen. — Boom II. German, Flemish,
and D^tch Schools. To the left: 387. G. van Wittel^ Rome; 345, 346. School
of Rubens. Portraits ; Sdiool of th'' Francks^ 270. Susanna, 269. St. Michael. --
2an . 8c/iool of the Brueghels^ Fair; 300 Master of FUmalle, Madonna, SS. Peter
and Augustine, with a prior; 278. N. van Haefteny Blessing; Gopy of F. van
MieriSy bleeping woman; 281. M. van Helmont., Family concert; 301. Copp
of Lucas van Leyden^ Surgeon; 364. P. Neeffs^ Church-interior; 362. Jan
Steen., Adoration of the Shepherds; Juncker, Chemist in his laboratory;
368. /. Lievens (not Teniers), Joseph's coat of many colours ; 374. Terburg^
Singing-lesson; 255. Gopy of DUrer^ Flight into Egypt; School of R. van der
Weyden^ The stable at Bethlehem ; 225. ff. van Balen^ Festival of the gods ;
373. Terburg^ The ordinance ; 400. Flemish School (16th cent.)^ Madonna and
Child; 315-318. P. Neeffs, Church-interiors; 19. Aartvan der Neer, Land-
scape; Flemish School (16lh cent). Portraits; several fine landscapes, by
Immenraet (285), Moueheron (313), K. du Jardin (287), WynanU (394, 396), etc. ;
366. ScJiool of Teniers the Elder^ SS. Paul and Anthony the Hermits ; 336. Van
Ravestein^ 283. School of Holbein , 248. /. G. Cuyp , Portraits ; also several
Dutch portraits; 233. D. Bouts (V), Charles V. as a child; 356. B. Saftlevtn,
Interior; 298. School of Ger.de Lairesse^ Triumph of beauty; 334. Pourbus
the Younger y Portrait; G". Dou (V), 253. Praying monk, 252. Portrait (not
the artist's mother); 303. Metsu^ Music-lesson; 288 K. du Jardin^ Mocking
of Christ; 390. P. Wouverman^ Landscape; 330. Poelenburg ^ Adoration of
the Shepherds: 264. School of the Francis^ Israelites arriving in the Prom-
ised Land; 754. G. Goquelin^ Bust of J.B. Vanloo, the painter. — Boom I.
French Schools. To the left: 79. Greuze^ Triumph of Galatea; portraits,
including one by Largilli^re (96); 142. P. Puget^ Portrait of the artist;
234. J. van Breda, Battle of Leuze (1691); 18. Bourdon, The halt; 170. Tour-
nitres, Mandolin-player; 240, De Champaigne, Abbe Arnauld; 95. LargilUere,
Lady as a naiad; 243. Ghampaigne (?), Christ appearing to St. Theresa,
93. Largiimre, Lady as Flora; 152. Rigaud, Portrait; 612. Q. de la Tour, Due
de Villars (pastel); 157. Rigaud, Portrait; 140. School of Poussin, Landscape;
?4. School of Glouet, 1-53. Rigaud, Portraits; 179. J. Vernet, Landscape;
127. Brothers Lenain, Soldiers; 239. Ghampaigne ^ Pompone de Bellievre.
Sculptures by Truphhme (F. David) and Houdon (Paesiello and Suflfren).
Boom I, on the other side, contains Modern Pictures, of less importance.
— In Booms II and III is a collection bequeathed by the painter Granet
(1775-1849), a native of Aix. It includes examples of Ingres, Brascassat,
Ouillem, Drouais, Loubon, and other French painters. — The remaining
rooms contain fine old furniture, engravings, a few more old paintings,
fayence, and arms.
The Rue d'ltalie, a little beyond the church, leads, to the left, to
the CouTS Mirabeau.
From Aix to Rognac (Aqueduct of Boque favour; Marseilles), see p. 429.
Beyond Aix the Marseilles line traverses two viaducts and two
short tunnels. 175 M. Luynes. — 177V2 M. Oardanne (Buffet;
Hotel-Cafe True), with 3060 inhab., is the centre of a coal-district.
From Gardani^b to Carnoulbs (line to Nice), 49 M., railway in 2-38/4 hrs.
(fares 8 fr. 85, 5 fr. 95, 3 fr. 90 c). — 12V2 M. Trets, a town of importance
xnder the Romans and in the middle ages. — 15 M. Pourrikres OCampi
J'utridi'), the scene of the victory of Marius in B. C. 102 (p. 444).
448 V.Boute69, MARSEILLES. Hotels.
23 M. St. KMdmia(H&t€l du Var; H6t. de France) with 2430 inliab., con-
tains the finest Gothic *Church in Provence (13-16th cent.), built over a
much more ancient crypt. The striking interior is finer than the exterior,
and contains a large *Beredos and 94 stalls of the end of the i7th cent.,
and some ancient paintings, including a 16th cent, altar-piece by Ant.
Bozen. In the crypt are four interesting sarcophagi (4th cent. ?). In tha
sacristy is shewn the *Cope of St. Louis of Anjou, Bishop of Toulouse
(d. 1297). — The Ste. Baume (p. 458) is about Gi/o M. to the S.W. (carr. 20 fr.).
261/2 M. Tourvet^ with a fine ruined *Ghateau. — At (35 M.) BrignolM
(Hdtel Fabre)^ a town of 4825 inhab., the Counts of Provence had a castle^
which was devastated by Charles V. — 49 M. (k^moulei (p. 459).
The country is undulating, well-wooded, and fertile, especially
as we approach Marseilles. The chateau of (179V£ M.) Simian^^A^
a keep of the 13th century. Beyond (184^2 M.) S«pfc»»«« we cros^
the Marseilles Canal (p. 4'29). i^^j^U. Ste. Marthe- Tour-Saint e,
with a modern tower, 97 ft. high, supporting a statue of the Virgin,
32^/2 ft. high. Fine view of Marseilles to the right.
189 M. Marseilles, see below.
69. Marseilles.
Arrival. There are five stations at Marseilles, but the only one of imj
portance for tourists is the Oare St. Charles (Pi. F, 2) , with a buffet an J
a hotel (see p. 449). The departure platform is to the right, as we com^
from the town, not to the left, as is usual in large termini in France.
The other stations are the Oare du Prado (PI. H,7), for the S.E. quarters^
served by a branch from La Blancarde (p. 457), at the end of the BouU
Chave (PI. I, 4) the Oare Maritime (PI. C, 1,2), the Oare du Vieux-Port (PI
B,C,6), and the Oare d'Arene^ a little farther on, all serving the harbout
— Hotel Omnibuses^ 1/2-IV2 fr. Ca6», see p. 449. The trains are also me
by the so-called Omnibus de Famille (office , Rue Orignan 17), with fou
or six seats (1-2 pers. in the smaller omnibus 21/2 fr., 3-4 pers. SVa fr.
per hr. 3 fr. 5 larger vehicle 4 fr., per hr. 4 fr. ; 1 fr. extra betweei
midnight and 6 a. m.).
Hotels. *Gb. Hot. du Louvrb et db la Paix (PI. a ^ E, 4), Rue Noailles SJ
R. from 41/2, B. U/a. d6i. 4, D. 6, pens, from ISVa fr-; 'Or. Hot. KoaillJ
KT Metropole (PI. c; E, 4), Rue Noailles 24, R. 4-10, B. I1/2, dej. 4, D. fl
pens, from 12 fr. ; Grand-Hotbl (PI. b -, F,4), Rue Koailles 26, R. 4-15, B. U/^
d^j. 4, D. 0 (iuel. wine), pens., from 1*2 fr. ^ these three of the first clasi^
— Hot. du Pbtit-Louvrb (PI, d( E, 4), Rue Cannebifere 18, pens, from 8 fr.|
DE8 Colonies (Pi. f^ E, 4), Rue Vacon 15, R. 3, d^j. 31/2, D. 4, pens. 9 fr
♦Hotel d'Orl^savs (PI. g^ £, 4), same street 19, with restaurant, dej. from
D. from 4 fr. ; Modern Hotel (PI. s-, D,4), hotel meubl6, R. 4-6 fr. ; ♦Qr. Ho
DB GENJiVB (PI. m; D, 4), Rue des Templiers 3, near the harbour, R. froi
31/21 R- l^Ai d^j. 3, D. 4, pens, from 10 fr. ; de Castillb et db Luxembouri
(PI. e; E, D)» Rue St. FerrJSol 3, at the corner of the Rue Jeune-Anaeharsii
R. 31/2, B, il/o, dej. 3, D. 4, pens. 10 fr.^ des Primcbs (PI. h^ £, 4), Plac
de la Bourse 12, R. from 21/2 fr. , no table-d*hdte ; dbs Phookbks (PI. ii
E, 4), Rue Thubaneau 4, well spoken of^ HdT. db Paris (PI. n; D, 3), Ru|
Colbert 15 ; •Gr. Hot. db la Poste (PI. o ; E, 3), at the corner of Eue Cot
bert and Rue d'Aix (these two hotels meubles); db Bomb (PI. 1; B. 4)
Cours St. Louis 7, patronised by the Roman Catholic clergy ) ♦dbs Nbui*
ciANTS (PI. p ; E, 4), Cours Belsnnce 33, R. 'il/2, B. 1, dej. 31/2, D. 3, pent
8 fr. ^ DB Pbovbncb (Pi. q ; £,4), Cours Belsunce 12, with restaurant, similal
prices; dbs Dbdx>Mond£s (PI. r; £, 3, 4), Cours Belsunce 32, eommereial
Bbauvau (PI. j ; D, 4) 1 Rue Beauvau 4, facing the sea, pens, from 8 fr,
CoMTiMBMTAL, Rue SufliVen 8, R. from 2 fr. ; db Tukis, Eue Vaxenod 31
(PI. C, 2, 3), at the harbour. — At the station (Oare St. Charles; Pi. F, 2)
(
]
c
1
(
Tramways. MARSEILLES. V, Route 69. 449
*Terminit8 Hotbl, R. 5-13 fr. Kear the station: HSt. de Rusbib, Boul.
d'Athenes 31 (PI. E, 3)^ Gr. H6t. db Bordbaux et d'Oriuvt (PI. k; E, 3).
same Boul. 11^ R. from 3, d^j. 21/3, D. 3., pens. 8 fr.
Restaurants. Ca/S-IUstaurant Bodoul^ Rue St. Ferr^ol 18, d^j. 4, D. 5 fr.,
inel. wine; Maiton Dorie^ Rue Koailles 5, same charges; Roubiony Chemin
de laCorniehe (p. 454); Retiaurant Itnardy Rue Thubaneau 4, at the Hot.
des Phoe^ens (p. 448); Rest, de Provence^ Cours Belsuneel2; Rett. Basso-
Brigaiilon^ Quat de la Fraternity 3-5, good and moderate; Rest. St. houis^
Rue des Reeollettes 1; Rest, du Coinmereey Rue Colbert 7, dej. 2V2t D.
3 fr. — As oil is largely used in place of butter, the cuisine of Pro-
vence will not always appeal to the northern palate. The great speciality
of Marseilles is the *b<millabaiss«\ of which the praises have been sung
by Thackeray. This consists of a kind of ^chowder' or thick soup, made
(if flsh boiled in oil and white wine and flaroured with saffron, orange-
.iuice, onions, garlic, bay, parsley, and cloves. ^Brandade* is a kind of
cod-fish stew; ^Ai'>tf is a mayonnaise made with oil and garlie. The
white wines usually drunk are CfusbUs^ Graves^ and Sauteme.
Oafte, the principal in the Rues Voailles and Gannebiere. Maison
Dorie (see above), C. de Marseille^ C. de France (paintings by Magaud),
C. du bommeree^ G. de VUnivers; 0. Glacier^ C. de la Bourse^ Place de la
Bourse; C. Turc^ at the foot of the Cannebiere. — Brasseries. Brasserie
de Strasbpurg^ Place de la Bourse 11; Brasserie Universelle ^ Rue Ganne-
biere 5; faveme Alsacienne^ AUees de Heilhan 36; Brasserie NationeOe^
Place Gastellane 10; Brasserie de Munich^ Rue Paradls 17. — Gonftctioaers :
Cctstelmnro ^ Rue Paradis 91; hinder^ Rue St. Ferr^ol 65a; Sigg^ Rue de
Rome 11.
I Per Drive Pee Hour
" By Day
1 fr. — c.
1 > 25»
- . 25.
50 e. per drive extra when the cab is brought to the hirer^s residence.
Night is reckoned from 10 p. m. to 6 a. m.
Tramwajrs. Marseilles and its suburbs are traversed by an extensive
system of electric tramways, some of the most important of which are
mentioned below. Fare In the town 10 e., to points outside !90-5O e. No
*corre8pondanee\
1. Cannebiire (PI. E, 4)-*. Louis (comp. PI. C, D, 1). — 2. Bourse (Pi.
E, iyBoul. Bailie (PI. I, 6). — 3. Cows St. Louis (PI. B, i)-Prado (PI. F, 7)-
Mazargues (small PI. F, 4). — 4. Cours St. Louis (PI. B, iyPrado (PI. F, 7)-
iiadrague de Montr edon (small PI. D, 4). — 5. Cours Belsunee (PI. E, 4)-
Le Canet (PI. D, 1). — 6. Vieux Port (PI. D, i)-St. BarthSlemy (PI. H, 1). —
7. Qwxi d€ la PratemiU (PI. D, 4)-£». Bamdbi (PI. I, 3). — 8. Owa* de Us
FraternUi (PI. D, i)-EndauiM (PI. A, 7), — 9. Quai de la Fraterniti (PI. D, 4)-
Boul. Vauban (PI. D, 7; ascent to Notre-Dame de-la-Garde). — 10. Place
Carnoi (PI. D, ^)-&Fstaque (PI. C, D, 1). — 11. La JolieUe (PI. B, 9) -Vieux
Port (PI. D, 4). — 13. La Joliette (PI. B, 9} -Place Gastellane (PI. F, 7). —
13. La JoHette (PI. B,S}- Longchamp (PI. H, 2; Mus«e). — 14. Boul. Dugom-
mier (PI. E, F, 3, \)- Croix Rouge (PI. I, 1). — 15. Boul. DugomnUsr (PI. E,
F, 3, i^-Oimetihre St. Pierre (Pi. I, 5). — 16. Oare St. Charles (PI. F, 2)-
Allies de Meilhan (PI. F, 4). — 17. Boul. du Musie (PI. F, 4)-5«. Marcel
tPI. I, 7). — 18. Boul. du Musie (PI. F, 4)-«te. Marguerite (Pl. O, 7). —
19. Prifeeture (PI. B^ &)-Prado (PI. F, 7)-Comiche (small PI. C-A, 4-1). —
90. Pr^ecture (Pl. E, ^yOomUshe (small PI. A-C, 1 4)-Z.a Mer (small PI. C, 4).
A Steam Tramway (Cketnin de Fer de VE»t-Mai-»eille)^ starting everv 1/4 hr.
near the Rue Noailles (PI. E, F, 4) and passing through a tunnel tOO yds.
lopg, runs via th6 Boul. Ghave to La Blancarde (p. 457; K, 15 c.) and the
large Cemetery of St. Pierre (30, 30 c).
Omnibuses are numerous. To Kotre-Dame-de-la-Garde (lift, see p. 453).
From the Gours du Chapitre (PI. F, 3), 15 c. From the Place Gastellane
to La Joliette by the Old Harbour, 10 c.
Baedeker. Southern France. 4th Edit. 29
Cabs (Voftures de Place).
With 1 horse (2 seats) . .
> 3 horses (4 * ) . .
Trunk
By Night
By Day
By Night
lfr.50c.
2 fr. — c.
2fr. 50c.
3 . - .
3 . 25.
3 . - .
- . 25 .
- . 50.
- . 50 .
450 V, Route 69, MARSEILLES. Hittory.
BteamboatB to Chdteau d'ff (return-fares 3, 2, and I1/2 fr.)^ ip Ajacdoy,
BeutiOy He Rousse^ and Calri^ see p. 497^ to Algiers ^ Comp. Gent. Trans-
atlantiqae, on Mon.^ Wed., and Frid. at 12.90 p.m.^ Gomp. de Kavigatioo
Mixte, every Frid. at 5 p. m. For other ports and full details, see the
Indicateur Marseillais (at the hotels) and the bills. — Steam Ferry aerose"
the harbour 5 c, to the Pharo 10 c, to the Bains des Caialatu 16 c. — Bmalli
Boat across the harbour, 1 pers. 40 c. , each addit. pers. 15 e. ; to the:
PTtaro or La JolietU 1 fr., 1H5 c; to or from a vessel in the harbour 90,.
10 c. \ trunk 60 c, hand bag 10 e.; per hour 1 fr., each addit- pers. 35 e.
The tariff should be asked for.
Post and Telegraph OfBoe, Rue Colbert (Fl-I>^3); also Rue Canne-
biere 16, Place de la Bourse 6 (PI. E, 4), and several other braneh-ottees.
— Telephone for local service !25 c. per 5 min.
PhysieianS} English-speaking. Dr. P. Qouin^ Rue Sylvabelle 82; Dr.
Milsomy Rue St. Jaeques 15 (diseases of the ear, nose, and throat).
Theatres. Grand- TMdtre (Pi. £^ 5), Place du Grand-Theatre (premieres
71/3, fauteuils d*orehestre 6, troisiemes 5, Quatri^mes 2l/s fr.); Offnnase
(PI. F, 4), Rue du Theatre - Fran^ais 4 (fauteuils 6, parterre U/g fr.);
Variiti* (PI. E, 4), Rue de TArhre (fauteuils and loges 51/2, premieres
21/a and 3, parterre 1 fr. 65 c). — Caf^e-Concerta. Alcazar (Pi. E, 3), Cours
Belsunee 43 (adm. 1 fr. 10 c. ; reserved seats more) 3 Palais de Crittal^
AUees deMeilhan33; Alhambra^ Place Sadi (}arnot (PI. D,3). — Bands in
the Allies de Meilhan and at the Zoologicai Garden (p. 4q6) on Sun. and
Thurs., 5-7 in summer, 3-5 in winter.
Baths. Bains Maures Hammam^ AUees de Meilhan 14; Bains de Long^
champy Boul. Longchamp 26 ; Grands Bains de Marseille^ Rue de la Repub-
lique 18; Bains Phoc4ens, Rue Paradis 17.
Sea Batha, handsomely fitted up, in the Anse des Catalans (PI. A, 5, 6;
p. 464; 20-60 c.). Bains du Roucas-filane and Bains du Prado^ somewhat
more distant, on the Route de la Gorniche (see the small Plan).
Bankers. ^ai»9t<6 dtf /Vanc^, Place Estrangin-Pastr^ (Pi. E, 6); Oridit
LyonnaiSy Rue St. Ferr^ol 25 (PI. E, 4, 5) ; SoeOU GiniraU, Rue Noailles 24.
British Consul , M, G. Ourney^ Rue Joseph Autran 1. — United Statea
Consul, Robert P. Skinner-^ viee-eonsul, Robert K. I^sut.
English Churoh Rue Sylvabelle 100 (PI. D, 6); gerviees at 10.39 and 3.
C!haplain, Rev. W. F. 0. Gumey^ B. A. -^ French Rt/ormed Church (PI. E, S)^
Rue Orisnan 15; service at 10 a. m. — EglUe Libre ^ Ck)urfl Lientand 133
(PI. F, 6) ; services at 9 and 10 a.m.
MarseiUeSy with 494,769 inhab., the capital of the D^partement
des Bouchts du Rhone and the headquarters of the XV. Corps
d'Arm^e , is the principal seaport and second city of France , and
the dep^t of a brisk maritime traffic with the £ast, Italy, and Africa.
Except for its busy harbour and beautiful site, the city is compara-
tively uninteresting. The modern character of its buildings is in
marked contrast to its antiquity.
Jfassilia (Ghreek MassaHa) was founded about B.C. 600 by Greeks from
Phocsea In Asia Minor. The Massiliane soon became maaters of the »ea,
and stood in friendly alliance with the Somang as early as B. C. 390. They
also established new eolonies in their neighbourtiood, 8u«h *s Tamr&ti*
(near Ciotat), OMa (near Hyeres), AnUpoUe (Antibet), and Nicaea (Ifiee),
and sent explorers to the coast of Afriea and to K. Europe (Buthymenes
and Pytheas). Hassilia maintained this reputation tnHI the imperial
period of Rome, Mid was therefore treated with leniency aad respect by
Julius Caesar when conquered by him , B. C. 43. Tacitus informs us that
his father-in-law Agricola, a native of the neighbouring Roman colony
of Forum Julii (Frejus), found, even under Claudius, ample opportunltiea
at Massilia for completing his education in the Oreek manner, for which
purpose Athens was usually frequented. The town possessed temples
of Diana (on the site of the present cathedral), of Keptune (on the eoaat),
karhour. MARSEILLES. V. Rmite 69. 451
of ApoUo, and other gods. Itfe government was aristoeratie. Christianity
As, said to have been introduced by St. Victor in the 9rd eent.^ or even,
according to the legend, by St. Laxarus, the brother of Mary and Martha.
After the fall of the W. empire Mareeilles fell anecesaively into the bands
of the Visigoths, the Franks, lukd Arelate; it was destroyed by the Sara-
cens., but was restored in the l^h cent, and became subject to the ViMeottnU
of Marseilles; in 1318 it became independent, but soon afterwards suc-
cumbed to Charles of Anjou. In 1481 it was united to France , but still
adhered to its ancient privileges, as was especially evident in the wars
of the League, against Henri IV. In 1660 Louis XIV. divested the town
of its privileges, so that il retained its importance as a seaport only.
In 1730 and 1721 it was devastated by a fearful pestilence. During the
Revolution it remained unshaken in its allegiance to royalty and was
therefore severely punished. In 1792 hordes of desperadoes were sent
hence to Paris. During the attack on the Tuileries this notorious ^Ba-
taiUon des Marseillais* sang the war-song composed at Strasbourg by
Rouget de VIsle in 1793, which was thenceforth known as the ^Marseillaise^
and subsequently became the battle -hymn of the republican armies. —
Paget and Thiers were bom at Marseilles.
The commercial importance of Marseilles was greatly increased by
the conquest of Algiers and the construction of the Suez Canal , but it
has now two formidable rivals in Trieste and Genoa. It is therefore
proposed to connect it with the Rhone by a canal wliieh will make it the
natural outlet of the great basin of the Rhone and the Saone*
Tfae htLiidsom^ Boulevards,. Yfhich Had Arom the Oare St. Charles
(PL F, 2) to the centre of the town, are planted with heautifUl elms
and pldoe-trees. A glance at the Plan dhews that Marseilles is di-
vided into four great quarters by two main thoroughfares, intei*-
secting each other at right angles at the Coura St:- Louis (PI. E, 4)
and each bearing different names at different parts of its extent.
The ^Cannebitea (PI. E, 4), the name of which is derived from
the Greek cannabis (hemp ; hence rope^walk), and its continuation
the •Rub Noailles are the finest streets in, the city ; they are more
picturesctue and contain more sumptuous caf^s than even the Grands
Bou!«vard8 of Paris. They lead directly to the harbour.
TheBoiirfe or Exchange (PI. E, 4 \ business-hours 1 1-12 and 4-6),
to the right of the Cannebiere, is a large and handsome building
erected at a cost of 360,000^ in 1852-60, after Coste*s plans. The
facade is decorated with a projecting Corinthian portico of five
arches and various allegorical and other sculptures. The large hall
has two galleries , and its vaulting is adorned with high - reliefs by
Gilbert. The fine meeting-hall of the Chamber of Commerce on the
first floor is decorated with paintings by Magaud.
Behind the Bourse lies the Old Town, through whose laby-
rinths several large new streets have recently been constructed. The
chief of these Is the Rue de la Republique, V4 M. long, leading
to the Gare Maritime and the docks at the new harbour (p. 452).
Down to 1850 the *Harboiir consisted only of the Vitux Port
(PI. C, D, 5, 4), at the foot of the Cannebiere, a basin about 1000 yds.
wide (70 acres). It is constantly crowded with shipping from all
countries, and presents a most animated and interesting scene.
The harbonr has been quintupled in size since 1850, by the addition
of five new basins (p. 45i^, and others are about to be constructed to the
29*
452 V. mmtt 69. MARSEILLES^. Cathedtat.
8. ' Erery kind of commodity and product is naturally represented In the
commerce of Marseilles, but its specialities are cereals, oil-seeds, coal,
sugar, coffee, hides, wool, silk, and Algerian sheep (two millions anilually).
More than 10^/2 million tons of shipping enter and clear annually, and two-
thirds of this total is engaged in importation; while this great commerce
is supplemented by an important manufacturing industry, in which the
production of the celebrated Marseilles soap bulks largely.
From the Quai de la Fraternity, at the end of the Gannebiere,
we follow the Quai du Port, on which, to the right, is the Hotd de
VUlf (PI. 0,4), an interesting edifice of 1663-83. The Old Harbour
is partly shut in on the left by a promontory on which stands Fort
d* Entrecasteaux (formerly St. Nicolas; PI. B, 5), built by Yauban
for Louis XIV. Opposite is the Fort Qrasse-TUty {St, Jean; PI. B, 4),
the tower of which bears an inscription in memory of the 2500th
anniversary of the foundation of the town, which was celebrated in
1899 amid great festivities. Farther to the left, beyond the Anse de
la Reserve, upon another and larger promontory, is the Chdteau du
Pharo (PL A, 5 ; p. 454), a palace presented to the town by the ex-
Empress Eugenie and now occupied by a School of Medicine and
Pharmacy.
A. short canal, running behind Fort Orasse-Tilly, connects the
Old with the New Harboul* (see below). The 8uit« or Quarantine
Office (Pi. B, 0, 4), situated on this side, possesses some interesting
works of art in its oOua<iil-room (apply to the concierge).
To the left, £for. Vernei^ Cholera on boaird the Melpomene; Davids
St.Rpch praying for. the plague-stricken, one of the artistes early works
(1780)^ Pugei^ Plaguy at Milan, marble high-relief^ Qirard^ Bishop Bel-
sunce during the great plague (see below); Tannewr^ The Justice re-
turning from the East with the pli^ue on board; OtUfin^ Chevalier B.o«e
burying the plague-stricken.
The ^Cathedral (PI. B, C, 3), known as the Afo^'or or 8te. MarU-
Majeure, stands on a terrace to the right, near the beginning of the
New Harbour. It is a large and handsome modern building in the
Romanesque-Byzantine style, 460 ft. long and erected in 1852-93
after plans by Vaudoyer, Esperandieu, and RevoU. The material
is green and white stone. The interior, consisting of a nave with
aisles and galleries over the latter, presents an Imposing aspect. The
decoration, which is far from being finished, will be very rich. Marbles
of all kinds and mosaics have been freely used. The edifice has already
cost 560,0002., and it is estimated that 240,000 Z. more will be
.necessary.
The square in frpnt of the Episcopal Palace (PI. 0,3) is adorned
with a bronze statue, by Ramus, of Bishop Belsunee (1671-1765), who
during the appalling plague in 1720, which carried off 40,000 persons,
alone maintained his post and faithfully performed the solemn duties
of his calling. — To the right of the cathedral are the remains of the
Old Cathedral, which was built on the ruins of a temple of Diana.
The Bassi& de 1« Joliette, to the left beyond the outer port, is the
most important on this side, and has an area of nearly 57 acres. It
is the starting-point of most of the large steamers. Farther to the
PtOait de Justice, MA|tSKIL]LKS. V, Routt 69. 453
N., beyoad the Gore Maritime i^\% C, 1, 2), are yarious other large
Dock^j flanked with extensive quays and presenting the usual fea-
tures of a great port.
The visitor should not fail to take a walk upan the Jet^c, a break*
water more than 2 M. long, erected at a cost- of about 2,000,000 /.,
whence he may return by small boat (p. 450).
The BoDLEVASD DBS Dambs j a wide new street intersecting the
Rue de la R^publique (p. 451) near the Place de la Joliette {PL 0, 2),
leftds to the Place d'Aix (PI. D , 3). The Triumphal A&oh, in the
centre of this square, was erected in 1825-32 to commemorate the
Duke of Angouleme's victory at the Troead^ro near Cadiz (1823).
It has, however, been decorated with high-*reliefs by David d- Angers
and Ramey , representing victories of Napoleon I., and since 1871
bears the inscription : ^A la R^publique, Marseille reconnaissante.'
The Rue d* Aix descends hence to the Cours Belsunee (Pi. £, 3, 4),
one of the finest streets in Marseilles, which we follow to its inter-
section with thei Gannebiere and the Rue Noailles at the Cours
St. Louis (PI. E, 4; p. 451).
Its continuation, the Bue de Rome, now leads us into the S.W.
quarter. About Vs M. from the Gannebiere, on the right beyond the
Place de Rome, with its principal facade towards the Place St. Fer-
r^ol, is the PA^FB<yn7BE (PI. £, 6), a sumptuous building in a modern
Renaissance style, by Martin (1861-67).
A short distance beyond the Prefecture, to the W., at the beginning
of the i^ell-shaded Cours Pierre Paget, is the * Fontaine Eitrangin,
with sculptures by A. Allar. The Cours Pierre Puget leads .through
the fashionable quarter of the city to the promenade of the same
name (see below).
The Palais de fustioe (P1.D,5), built in 1858-62 by Martin,
stands on' the right side of the Cours. In front of it is a square, em-
bellished with a bronze statue, by Fabre (1875), ai Berry er, the cel-
ebrated advocate (1790-1868). The vestibule ('3alle des Pas Per-
dus') is decorated with relief-figures of the legislators Solon, Jus-
tinian, Charlemagne, and Napoleon I.,, with medallions of eminent
jurisconsults, and with symbolical bas-reliefs.
The Prorhenade Pierfe Puget (PI. C , D , 6) is laid out on one
of the reservoirs of the aqueduct (p. 429) and commands a fine view
of the harbour. In the grounds are an Antique Column (from Aix),
surmounted by a bust of Puget, and a Statue of the Abbe Dassy,
founder of the Marseilles Blind Asylum situated opposite to the S.
The hill of Notre -Dame -de -la -Garde may be aacended by means of
a Li/t (Atcenteur)^ starting in tbd Rue Gherehell (Pi. D, 6,7) and ending
about 1SF75 yds. from the chapel. Fares : up S) e., down 40 c, up and down 60 e.
In the gardeo at the foot of the lift is a Diorema^ with a maritime sc^ne.
*Sotr% - Dame -de - la - Garde (PI. D, 7) is a church situated on the
bare and fortified summit of a bill to the S. of the harbour. It may
be leaehed either by the lift (see above) or via the Boulevard Notre^
454 y. R<mU 69. MARSBILl^ES. Comiehi.
Dame (PL D,6-7), beginning at the Place de la Corderie, or vi& the
Boulevard Grazzino, beginning at the Promenade Pierre Paget. From
the point where the latter road ends there are 140 steps to ascend to
the lower churchy 174 to the upper. Notre-Dame-de-la*Garde is a
place of pilgrimage, the mediaeval sanctuary of which has been
replaced by a fine modern church in the neo'Byzantine style, after
the plans of Esp^randieu (1864). Over the facade rises a belfry,
150 ft. high, surmounted by a colossal statue of the Virgin, by
Lequesne, The interior is adorned with mosaics, and on the high-
altar there is :a silver figure of the Virgin under a bronze -gilt
canopy. In the crypt is a statue of the Virgin by Carpeauz. The
tower (154 steps j adm. 50 c.) affords a splendid *View, which,
however, is almost as good from below.
Those whose time and energy permtl should reliurn to the entrance
to the Promenade Puget (see above)) there turn to the right, pass under
the foot'bridge, and follow the boulevard de la Corderie, to the left, to
the Ause des Catalans fseie below).
To the N. of the Boulevard de la Corderie is the Gknrch of St.
Victor (PI. G, 6), a relic of the powerful abbey of the same name,
founded by St. Cassian (d. about 440) and several times rebuilt, on
the last occasion by Urban V., who had once been its abbot* The
battlemented towers date from 1350. The crypt dates from the 11th
cent., the rest principally from the I3th« This church is now being
restored. The crypt (open on Sat. from 7.30 to 9 a. m., and at other
times on application) contains a 'Grotto of St. Lazaie', a blackened
Virgin of the 4th cent, a cross said to be that on which St. Andrew
suffered martyrdom, and some old tombs. — Farther on, to the right,
are the Fort d' Entree a$teaux and the Chateau du Pharo (p. 452).
The *Coruiche Boad (PI. A, 6; small PI. A1-G4) begins beyond
the fort and skirts the coast, where it is partly cut out of the rocks,
joining the Promanade du Prado at the Rond-^oint (p. 457). It
passes by the Anse des Catalans^ with several Bath Establishments
(p. 450), where it is proposed to dig basins for a South Harbour.
This road, which is devoid of shade and agreeable only when the
weather is not too hot, affords magnificent *Views of the bay of
Marseilles, with the islands of // (p. 457), Satonneau, and Tomegue.
It is best to drive along this road or go by tramway, proceeding to
the Prado vli the Place de Rome (PI. F, 5), and returning by
tramway via the Anse des Catalans. Near the Balterie d'Endoume
(small PI. A, 1) is a small Laboratory of Marine Zoology ^ with an
aquarium (open oii Sun., 2-6, but shown also at other times).
The Palais de Lpngchamp, with its rich museum and other ob-
jects of interest , is in the N.£. quarter of the town.
From the upper end of the Rue Koailles the Boulevard Dugom-
mier (Pi. F, 4,3) toads to the lea to thie Oare St. ChMle* (p. 451).
To the right is the Boulevard du Mutte {FU F, 4), with the Lycre,
the tcQlt des Beaux- Arts , and the Public Library The last H
Pal, de Longchamp. MARSEILLES. K Route 69. 455
open daily, (except Sun. and holidays (closed in Sept.), and contains
nearly 100,000 vols., 1600 MSS., and a cabinet of coins and medals
(20,000 ; very rich in ancient Marseilles coins).
The Rue Noailles is continued to the N.W. by the fine AlUes de
■Meilhan (Pi. F, 4), in which to the left, at the junction of the ALlees
•des CapucineSy is the Faculty of Science (PLF, 3). Farther on,
iin front of the church of St. Vincent, is the Monument des Mo-
iBiLES DES BouoHB8-oT7-RHdNE, by J. Turcan, erected in 1894 to the
tmemory of the members of the departmental militia who fell in
Algeria in 1871.
The Chur«h of Bt-Vincent-de-Panl (Pi. F, 3) , erected by Rey-
baud and Pougne in the Gothic style of the 13th century, ^ith its
handsome facade and two towers , dominates a great part of the
town. It is popularly known as the J^glise des R/form^s, because
it occupies the site of a church of the reformed Augustine order
(*Angustins r^form^s'). — Near it, to the left, is the Cours du Cha-
pitre (Pl.F, G, 3), with its continuation, the Boulevard de Long-
champ (PI. G, H, 3, 2), leading up to the palace, nearly a mile from
the Rue Noailles.
The *Palais de Longchamp (P1.H,2), built in 1862-69 after the
plans of Esperandieu, is a magnificent building in the Renaissance
style. The central part consists of a triumphal arch, connected by
Ionic colonnades with two large side-buildings. The latter contain
the museums (see below) ; the triumphal arch, reached by large flights
of steps on each side, is the Ohdteau d'Eau of the Marseilles aque-
.duct (p. 429), which joins it behind. In front is a basin whence
.an abundant cascade descends over a flight of steps, and in this
it>a8in is a colossal group , by Cavelier, representing the Duriance
{"between the Vine and Wheat, on a chariot drawn by four bulls. The
'friezes of the triumphal arch and museums are also by Cavelier.
jRight and left are Tritons and Genii by Lequesne. The animals at
;the entrance to the garden are by Barye. The roof of the colon-
yiAdes affords a magnificent view of the city, with the sea beyond it.
The "'Mus^E PES Beaux^Abts, in the building to the left, is open
daily, except Mon. and Frid. , 8-12 and 2-6 in summer, 9-12 and
2-4 in winter. It is closed on Jan. 20th-31st and July 20th-31st.
Explanatory labels are attached to the works of art.
Ground Floor. The Cbmthal Oali.bry and the Room to the Right of
the entrance mainly contain modern French sculptures, many of which
well deserve notice. — The Room to »hb L»»t is devoted to Pierre Puget
(1693-94) of Marseilles, a sculptor and painter, and contains several ori-
ginal worlu besides casts. — In the Gabinbt to the left are drawings and
a fresco ascrihed to Correggio. Cabinet to the rights engravings and water-
colours^ 1458. Carrier- Belleuse^ The mirror.
Firit Floor. — Staiecasb: Marseilles as a Greek Colony and as the Gat«
of the East, mural naintings by Puvis de Chavannei (1869). Decorative sculp-
tures by Cavelier, Poitevin, Chauvet, Chabaud, Ferraty 2Vt»pAiw*, and Quindon.
Cbhtral Room. To the left of the entrance : 242. De Troy, The letter.
To the Hght of the entrance: 176. Raoux, The letter; 68,67 BlaindeFon^
J«»ay, Flowers and fruit ; portraits by Dupletsis, Drouait, Mtgnard, Ortiue,
456 V. Route 69, MAKSfilLLES. Prado.
eU.; no number, WatUatt, Fete ehampetre; 34^). J>* Troy. The plague iu
1720 (p. 451). — 336. Tintoretto, The Doge Morosini \ a05. Maratta, Cardinal
Gibo; 2^. Casiiglioney Farm; no number, Wtfnanis, Dairy; 411. Zeemau^
Harbour ; 364. Ph. de Gkampaiffne^Aasumpiion. — 377. Holbein the Yowngtr (?),
Portrait; 372, 373. G. FUmck, Studios; above, 365. Ph. de Champaigne, aiori-
fieation of Mary Magdalen; 274. Paolo Veronese y Venetian princess; no
number, Pourbus the younger , Prince William of Orange ; 391. Pourbu* the
Elder, Nobleman; 352. F, Pol, A Polish king; above, 406. Snydert, Game
and fruit; 378. Corn, de Man, The letter; no number, ^n<. Pereda (Spanish
Sainter, 1599-1660), Descent from the Gross; 399, 398. Rubeni, Sketches;
U. Perugino, Family of the Virgin; no number, Van Keuel^ Still-life;
376. Holbein the Younger, Portrait; *397. Etibens, Boar-hunt (ea. 1615 ^ pre-
sented by Napoleon 1.); 374. J. van Qoyen (?), River-scene; 386. VanMol,
Adoration of the Shepherds; 360. Brueghel the Elder, Environs of Antwerp ;
367. Decker, Cottage on the bank of a river; 346. '^tirfroran, Sf. Francis;
no number, Van Veen, 8t. Paul on the journey to Damascus ; no number.
Tenters, Monkeys' guard-room ; 390. Peelers, Sea-piece ; 317. Salvator Rosa,
Hermit with a skull; *404. J. van Ruysdael, Puud in a wood, with sunny
prospect (sadly damaged); 410. Seghers, King David; 373. J. van Qoyen,
Landscape; 486. Ribera, Tavern-'Scene.
Room to thb Lsft (of the entrance). Modern pictures. Above the
door. 162. H. PhiUppoteaux, Last banquet of the Girondins. To the right
(no number), Corot, Scene from Southern Tyrol ; 241. /it6a<. Hautboy-player ;
32. Courbet, Stag drinking; 463. Boulanger, St. Sebastian and £mp. Mazi-
mianus. — No number, Puvis de Chavannes, Classical hunting-scene (i85B);
229. Stevens, Ash Wednesday ; 88. Hamman, Lecture of Vesalius, the ana-
tomist; A. SiengeUn, Sunshine in late autumn; above, Oervais, The Holy
Maries ; 1799. Tangi, Swamp ; 268. I'il. Ziem, Quai St. Jean at Marseilles ;
no nnmher, J. F. Millet, Mother and child; 180. Regnault, Judith and Holo-
phernes; no numbers, Boudtor, Hay-vessel; Corot, Birch-tree. — II. Room:
small pictures; designs by Puvis de Chavannes.
Room to this Right (at the other end of the central room). Proveufal
School. To the right, 541. F. OUmeni, F. Mistral, the poet; Garibaldi (of
Marseilles), Studio. — If. Guindon, Arrival of fishermen at the Quai St.
Jean at Marseilles ; R. Alligre, Harbour of Marseilles. — 237. Simon, Sheep
at pasture; J. Silbert, St. Marinus of Dalmatia; 4. Aiguier, Sea-pieee;
Q. Ricard, Chenavard and Papet^, the painters; above, Vayson, Sheep;
A. Casile, (^uai de la Ligne at Avignon. — £. Martin, Entrance of the Old
Harbour at Marseilles.
The Museum of Natubal Histoby, 1ti the building to the right,
is open on Thurs., Sun., and holidays , from 2 to 4.H0 or 6. Th«
Ground Floor is devoted to mammals, fish, palsontology, and min-
eralogy, the First Floor to birds and conchology. The rooms and stitir*
case are decorated with encaustic paintings by L/op. Durangel^
Raph, Pon8on, and Jos, Lalanne^ representing antediluvian ani-
mals, landscapes of Provence, etc.
The pleasure-grounds behind the palace contain (to the left) a co-
iumn with a bust of Lamartine. To the N. is the end of the Durance
aqueduct (p. 429). On the right is the small Zoological Garden,
which affords a pretty promenade (adm. Vt'^ ^^-i ^'^ ^^^ ^\xn. and
holidays; band on Sun. and Thurs., 5-7 in summer, 3-5 in winter).
The Prado (PI. F, 7; small PI. E, 1-3, D, 3) is the principal
promenade outside Marseilles, and is especially frequented towards
evening, resembling in this the Oorniche Road (p. 454), which is
often taken for the return (tramway, Nos. 3 and 4, see p. 449). The
Chd$MU d'lf, MARSEILLES. V, Route 69. 457
Prado.is a magniflcent avenue, 2M. long, beginning at the Place
Castellane , at the end of the Rue de Rome , more than ^4 M. from
the Rue Noailles, and turning to the right, towards the sea, nearly
1 M. farther on. It is flanked by fine villas and joins the Gomlche
Road at the Rond-Point (small Plan, G, 4)1 Near
the end, to the left, in a fine Fork, is the €Sh4teau Sor61y (small
PI. D, 4), containing the municipal Archaeological Museum, open
on Sun. and Thurs. (except during the races), 2-4.30 in winter,
2-6 in summer; daily to strangers. The contents include Greek,
Roman, and Egyptian antiquities, ecclesiastical plate, fayence, Ghi>
iiese objects, etc. The 'Salon Dor^' (Room IV) and the ceiling of
the staircase are embellished with paintings ascribed to Ckaix,
Part of the park , near the chateau , has been converted into a
liotanical Garden and contains a Statue of Puget (p. 455), by Ramus.
The Race Caune of Marseilles oeeupies part of the park near the sea.
In fche vicinity and «Iong the beach are numerous cafes and restaurants,
in which it is prudent to ascertain the tarifl' before ordering. Roubion,
see p. 449.
An interesting excursion may be made in summer from the Vieux
Port to the celebrated Ch&taau d'lf, on the small island of this name,
nearly 2 M. to the W. Steamer, see p. 450. Boats cannot land except in
fine weather. The Port du Frioul here is used as a lazaretto. The castle,
rendered famous by Alex. Dumas in bis ''Monte Gristo% is a keep built in
15291, and has be^n used aa a state-prison ; its principal duugeons are shown.
There is a fine view from the top. — To the W. are the two larger is-
lands of Ratonneau and Pomegue.
Fhoh Marsbillbs to Roovac, 171/2 lA-t by the Ligne de VEttaque^ a
local railway starting from the principal station. — 7 M. L'Estaque (H^tel-
Hestauramt Mistral)^ on the sea -beach, is much frequented by the in-
babitants of Marseilles. — I71/2 M. Rognac (p. 429).
From Marseilles to Arlet Mid Avignon,, see R. 64; xa' N(meM and Mont-
peUier, see RR. 64, 62, 41, and p. 441; to Aijs, see R. 68; to Grenoble, see
B. 68; to Toulon, Cannet, Nice, etc., see R. Id
70. From MameilleB to V^iitisiiglia (Italy).
162 M. RAILWA.Y in 61/3-10 hrs. (fares 29 fr. 30, 19 fr. 85 c, 13 fr.).
Best views to the right. — Train de Luxe from Paris (Gare de Lyon) to
the stations on the Riviera, via Lyons and Marseilles, see the Indicateur.
V. on board (he train 7fr., d6j. 5 fr.
I. From Haneillei to Tonlon (Hydrei).
42 M. Railway in I1/4-21/4 hrs. (fares 7 fr. 50, 5 fr. 5, 3 fr. 30 c).
MarseilleSf see p. 44S. — The line, at flrst at some distance from
the sea, traverses an undulating and not uninteresting country. Be-
yond a short tunnel Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde is seen to the right. —
3Vg M. La Blahcarde, junction for the Gare du Prado (p. 448)
and the tramway Est-Marseilles (p. 449). — 472 M. La Pomme, on
the Huveaune^ which is crossed several times. — Near (5V2 M.)
St, Marcel we cross the Canal de Marseille (p. 429). — TVj M. St.
Menet.
About 21/2 M. to the N. (omn. in 'the season) lies Cameina-les-Bains
(H6t. Heureux; Cemibrai), a watering-place with sulphureous springs. It is
aldo reached by a direct omnibus from Marseilles (8 M.).
458 V, Route 70. LA SBYNB. From MarseUUs
8M. La Penne;dM., Camp- Major, — lO^/j M. Auhagne (Buffet;
H6t. du Oours), an industrial town of 8400 inhabitants.
A braneh-liae runs henee via Auriol to (lOl/g M.) Vaidonne^ import'
ant for its mines of lignite.
The ExcuBsioM to thk Stb. B^umb is usually made from Auriol station.
A diligence (50 c.) plies vik the town of Auriol to (51/2 K-) ^' 2<»charie (Lion
d'Or), whenee we have still 8 M. of bad road (earr. 10-90 fr.) to the HdUUerie
de la Ste. Baumt^ kept by nuns for the accommodation of pilgrims. — The
Ste. Baume is, according to tradition, the grotto to which Mary Magdalen
(p. 443) retired to end her days; it has been transformed into a chapel
and is still a frequented pilgrim-resort. A charming path through an
ancient beech-forest ascends to it in i/s-3/4 br. It has given name to the
mountains among which it lies, and which command fine views.
Before and after (17 M.) Cassis (H6t. Lieutaud), station for the
small port of that name (Carslcis Portus), 2 M. distant, we pass
through two tunnels. To the left is the village of Ceyreste (the
Roman Gxsarista), with a few ancient remains.
From (23 M.) La Ciotat^Qare a branch -line runs to(3M.)
La Ciotat (Hot. du Commerce ; H6t. de V Univers) , a seaport of
12,734 inhab., finely situated at the foot of a promontory to the S.W.,
near the site of the ancient Massilian colony Tauroeis. On the quay
is the charming promenade of La Tasse. The large dockyards of
the Messagerles Maiitimes employ 3500 hands.
31 Vz M. Sandol (Hot. de la VUte; *0t. H&t, des Bains, outside
the town, pens, from Q^/2 fr.), a small port and winter-resort, on a
beautiful bay. — 36 M. Ollioules- Sanary. Ollioules (Hdt St.
Laurent) is a small town (3400 inhab.), lying in a pretty valley
about 2 M. to the left (electric tramway from Toulon, p. 465). Sa-
nary, formerly St. Ifazaire (Hot. de &t. Nazair©; Hdt. des Bains)
is a small seaport about 1V4^- ^ the right. About V2 ^* to the
N. of Ollioules are the fine Gorges d'Ollioules, V/^ M. long, through
which the old highroad passes.
38 V2 M. La SeyBe-TamariB-stir-Ker {Hdtel de la M/dittfranee,
at the harbour), with 16,340 inhab. and important dockyards (steamer
from Toulon , see p. 46?). An omnibus runs hence to (3 M.) Ta-
maris (p. 467). — To the left are the two forts of St.. Antoine, and
beyond them the Faron (p. 468) ; then a short tunnel.
42 M. Toulon (Buffet), see p. 464.
II. From Toulom to Ventimiglia.
120 Ji. Railway in SV^-TS/f fars. (fares 21 fr. 80, 14 fr. 80, 9 fr. 70 e.).
Best views on tl^e right..
Toulon, see p. 464. — 47 M. (from Marseilles) La Qarde,
with the ruins of a 16th cent, castle to the left.
48V2 M. La Pauline, junction for Uyeres (p. 468). — Beyond
(SOVa ^') ^« Farlede the line .ascends the valley of the Ctapeau,
between the offshoots of the Alps, on the left, and the Montagues des
Maures (p. 470), on the right. Cherry-trees abound. — 52V8 M.
Sollies- Pomt (hotel).
About 81/2 M. to the N., reached by the smiling valley of the Oapeau,
io VeniimiffHa. PR^JUS. V, Route 70. 459
is tbe Oarthusian estubliahment of M^ntriaux (aeceMible to men only).,
with the ruins of the old monastery (13th cent.), 1 M. farther on. The om-
nibas to (81/2 H.) Ifiounes (hotel) passes within 1 M. of the monastery.
From (56 M.) Guers-Pierrefeu, a public conveyance (2 ft.) plies
to Collobrieres (Hot. Blancj IBVjM.), seep. 471.— 63 VjM. Carnoulea,
Branch-line to Gardanne, see p. 448. — 65 M. Pignans. To the right,
on an outlier of the Maures, is the (2^4 lirs.) chapel of Notre- Dame-
des-Anges (2555 ft.), with a magnificent view (key at Pignans). —
We pass through cuttings in the red sandstone into a plain rich
in olive and mulberry trees, in the valley of the Aille; then into
the valley of the Argtm, which rounds the mountains on the E.
75 M. he Luc et he Cannet, Le Luc (Poste) is a small town
about 2 M. to the W. (omn.), on the hillside.
Excursions may be made henee (omn. 2V4 fr.) to the S.E. over the
Maures to (12 M.) La Gardt-Freinei (p. 471) and (I8I/2 M.) Gogolin (p. 471),
and to the N. to (8 M.) L« Thoronet^ a village with a ruined Gistereian
abbey, of which the ehureh (13tb cent,) and the cloisters are the chief
remains.
We now approach the chain of the Maures. — 80 Va M. Vidauban.
The valley of the Argens is reached, and the river soon crossed. On
a height to the left is the Chdteau d' Astros, in the grounds of which
is the Perte de V Argens, a rocky chaos with two natural bridges.
8472 M. Les Arcs (Bufifetj H6t. Reybaud), with a trade in cattle
and cocoons.
A branch-line runs hence by (5V2 ^O ^<^*> to (8 M.) Draguiffnan (Hdtel
Bertin; FSraud), with 9960 inhab., at the foot of the Matniont (3160 ft.) and
on the Nariubit. The AlUes 4i'Aeimar^ in front of the Prefectures contain
fine plane-trees. In the Museum are pictures by Teniers^ Rembrandt^ and
Panini. — To Meyrarguet^ see p. 444.
Pkom Draouio-nan to Orassb (Niee)^ 40 Sf . (in 3 hrs.), Ligne da Sud,
traversing a highly pieturesque region and passing numerous smim sta-
tions. — 40M. urcut* Cp. 475); station (buffet) at some distance from that
of the other line.
At (8972 M.) Le Muy (H6t. Sermet) is a tower from which some
Provencals in 1536 shot the Spanish poet Garcilaso de la Vega,
whom they mistook for Charles V., owing to his sumptuous dress.
At the foot of the Maures are the San- Traou-della- Roque and the Jeu-
<ie- Ballon^ a remarkable landslip a-nd gorge (guide). The Rocker de
^uebrune or Troix Croix (1215 ft.), the peak between l«e Muy and Roque-
t>raDe, commands a good view notwithstanding its low height.
98 M. Fr6ju8 (Hotel du Midi, du Forum, both unpretending,
near the station; station of the Ligne du Sud, see p. 471), the
Porum Julii of the Romans, is now a town of 3510 inhab., and the
seat of a bishopric. Its chief interest consists in its Roman remains.
Its former importance is shown by its old walls , inclosing an area
five times as large as the present town. The harbour was founded by
GsBsar and enlarged by Augustus, who sent here the galleys taken from
Antony at the battle ;of Actium (B. C. 31). The town is now nearly
1 M. from the sea, owing to the alluvial deposit of the Argens. It was the
birthplace of Boscius the actor, Agricola the general, Cornelius Gallus
tbe poet, Sifey^, and Difisaugiers.
The Amphitheatre (Les Arlnes), to the left of the exit from the
station , beyond a fountain, dates mainly from the time of Septi-
460 V. BoiUe 70, FK£JUS. Ffcm M<itr$eUles
mius SeveruB (193-21 1). It measures 370 ft. by 280 ft. and held 9100
spectators. The foundations and part of the gallery encircling the
arena beneath the tiers of seats are still preserved. Behind it,
to the N., is a small volcanic hill, from which some remains of
the Roman City Walls may be seen*
The town lies to the right of the exit from the station. Near
the site of the ancient Harbour, which was about Vs ^* square,
rises the Butte St, Antoine, the old dtadellt du Couchant , a
mound 20 ft. high erected to protect the harbour from the N.W. wind.
The Butte is '/g M. in circumference and retains most of its foun-
dation walls, which were strengthened on the W. by arched recesses
to resist the pressure of the superincumbent earth. Three of its towers
are also standing , one of which was probably used as a lighthouse.
— About Vi M. to the S.W., to the right, near the Ligne du Sud
(p. 471), are the ruins of the i^omanBo^^, partly occupied by a farm.
Near the railway, within the town, are a 16th cent. Tower (restored)
and the Forte Dor^e, which led to the harbour. This gateway (re-
stored) formed part of a stoa or portico , about 60 ft. wide. To the
right is the Place du Court, a platform formerly washed by the sea,
whence we enjoy a fine view. Close by is the Lantern of Augustus^
a low turret erroneously supposed to have been a lighthouse. Beyond
it is the old Citadelle du Levant, a structure resembling the Butte
St. Antoine, with massive walls^ vaulted chambers, etc., originally
marking the E. extremity of the harbour.
The Cannes road, leading from the Place du Gours, runs to the
S. of the scanty ruins of the town -walls and the Ancient Theatre,
and passes the Aqueduct, with arches 60 ft. in height, which
brought water from the Siagnole, 25 M. distant (comp. p. 476).
In the Place de TEvech^, in the town, is the "CathedraX, a Roman-
esque edifice of the 11 -12th cent., with a baptistery containing
eight antique granite columns (to the left of the portal), and an
ancient Gothic cloister^ the arches of which are built up. The door
is ornamented with Renaissance sculptures, which are covered by
boards but shown by the sacristan (at the entrance to the cloisters).
In the interior are some wood -carvings of the 16th and an altar-
piece of the 15th century. Fine view from the tower (50 c).
In the Rue Nationale, the continuation of the Route de Cannes,
is a small Museum of Antiquities (apply at the Udtel de Yille), con-
taining a well-preserved antique head of Jupiter (hose renewed)
and various sculptures, terracottas, bronzes, etc.
Tbe Roman Bridge,, where Lepidus eneamped his troops, lies about
1 H. to the E. of the Amphitheatre, near the railway, but on the other
side. The canal whieh it crosiied is now diverted.
From Fr^Jus to Hyires and to St. Raphail by the Ligne du Sud, see
pp.470, 471. — Omnibus to St. Raphael, 35c.
The railway traverses the site of the old harbour of Fr^jus, with
a view of the Porte Dor^e and the aqueduct, to the left, and of the
Lantern of Augustus, to the right.
to VenUmiglid. 8T. RAPHAfiL. V, Route 70. 461
100 M. St* XaphadL — Hotels, Gravd-Hotel, at some distance from
the sea, B. fromSl/s, B, II/2, d6j. S^/^, D. 5, pens, from 10, omn. 1-3 fr. ;
fonTiKBMTAL HoT. pB8 Bau<8, on the beach, R. & A. 3-10, L. 8/4, B. li/«,
d^j. 3, D. 4, pens, from 9, omn. 1 fr. ^ Bbau-Pitagb, on the beach, R. 5-8,
B. 11/3, d6J. 4, D* 5, pens. 9-lS, omn. 1 f!r. -, dk hk Po«tb bt dbs NirocciAMTs,
near the station, R. 3-5, B. V4-I, dej. 2i/a, D. 3 (incl. wine), pens. 6-12 fr. j
Hot. ©b FaAUCB. — Sea Baths^ opposite the Hotel Continental. — Bnglith
Church Service in winter.
St, Raphael (4270inliab.), a thriving seaport o» the Oulf of
Fr^Ju8, is frequented as a sea-bathing place and as a winter-resort
owing to its favonfable situation , which is well sheltered towards
the E., though exposed to the Mistral. Here Napoleon I. landed on
his return from Egypt in 1799, and embarked for Elba in 1814. The
strangers* quarter is in the new or winter town , with numerous
villas and baulevards extending for 2V2 M. along the seashore.
Near the station is the handsome modern church of Notre- Dame- de-
la- Vietoirey in the. Bomanesque style. Adjacent is the Casino,
About 3 M. to theN.W. lies Valesoure (Grand -Hotel; B6t. des Anglais ;
omn. 50 c.), charmingly situated among pine -woods, and frequented as
a winter - resort by those for whom the immediate rieinity of the sea is
disadvantageous.
From St. Raphael to Fr^^ and Hyires by the Ligne du Sud, see
pp. 470, 471. — Ascent of Uont Vinaigrey see below. — Ifew coast-road (Gor-
niche d^Or) to Th^oule (see below), under construction.
The next part of the line is very picturesque , passing through
the red and grey rocks of the Monts Ester el , close to the blue sea.
The Esterel is an isolated mountain-group of volcanic formation, about
12 M. long and 9 M. broad, with forests of cork and pine belonging to
government. The ascent of M6ni Vinaigre (1820 ft. *, fine view), the highest
point, is best m^de from St. Raphael (see above), Kapoule, or Agay (see
below), in 4 hrs. Driving is practicable to within 1 hr. of the top, either
from St. Ra^^hael (carr. 20-2D fr.) or from Cannes (20 fr. ; by the E. side).
IO2V2 M." BoulouriS'Sur- Mer (Grand -Hdtel) is more sheltered
than St. Raphael. — 106 M. Agay (*Hdt. Brevet), the Agath(m of
Ptolemy, has a small and well-sheltered harbour. To the right is
Ca-pe Rout^ with its magnificent cliffs. — 112 M. L6 Trayas (Hdt,
du Tray as, with' restaurant, d^j; 5 fr.) is the starting-point for the
(2 hrs.) ascent of the^Orawd Fie du Cap Roux (1485 ft.; fine view)
and for other excursions to the Eaterel (see above). — We thread
a short tunnel and then another one, V2 M. Idng. 115 M. Theoule
(Hdt,-Pen8. Baron); ' Here begins thet new *Comiche d'Ot, leading
to St. HaphaSl (see aboye^. ^ 16 M . La Netpoule (Hdt. des Bains de
Mer). — We cross the Riou and the Biagne (p. 476). llSVi-M. La
Bocea is the junction of the line to Oraase (p. 475), which is seen
to the left, with the Maritime Alps in the distance.
120V2M. Cannes, seep. 471. The train crosses the town, stop-
ping at Cannes-Eden (hotels, see p.. 472).
124 M. Golfe-Juan-Vallauris, near which a column commem-
orates the landing of Napoleon I. on his return from. Elba in 1815.
Golfer Juan (H8t. de la Plage; Central; du Globe) is on the way to
become a winter -resort (electric tramway to Cannes and Antibes,
and to Tallaurls , see p. 473). At Vallawris (6730 inhab. ; several
462 V. Route 70. ANTIBES. From MarMeillet
hotels; carr. from Cannes 12-18 fr.), l^ji M. to the N.W., large quan-
tities of artistic pottery are made. Charming promenade to Cannes-
Eden. — To the right, the Cap d'Antibes (see below),
126 M. Juan 'les- Pins (Grand-Hdtel, pens, from 9 fr.; Hdt. de
la R^gence^ pens, firom 7 fir.; Hdt. Terminus, unpretending), a
winter-resort and bathing-place.
127 M. A&tibeil. — Hotels. ' Gs. Hd-r. D^Avtibbs (opened in autumn,
1902); Hdir. dbs AioiiCS d'Ob, Rue Thuret; Tbrmimus, at the siation, B. 3,
B, IVbi d^j. 3, D. 3l/sfr.; db la Bbobdcb^ Victo«ia; Coamopolitaim
(hotel meubl^), with restaurant; de la Pivbdb; d''Alsacb bt db Lorhaihe;
Family Hot«I'i near the station. — Tramway to Cannes, see p. 473.
Antibes, the ancient Antipolis, is a finely situated seaport, with
9330 inhabitants. On the N. side of the bay rises the picturesque
Fort Carr^^ constructed by Vaufcan. The Front de Mer promenade
commands a magnificent *View, extending to Nice and including
the snow-capped Maritime Alps. The harbour is protected by a
breakwater, 1540 ft. in length, constructed by Vauban,
The Cap d' Antibes or Oap de la Oaroupe is a peninsula about 21/2 M . long,
with luxuriant vegetation , the Grand Hdtel du Cap (R. 4-6, B. IVsi ^^J-
SVs) D> 5i pens, from 12 fr.), and a colony of villas. The end of the
reninsula is about 3M. from Antibes (earr. there and back dl/2-5l/s ^- i ^^'^'
fr.). The beautiful garden of the VtUa Thuret^ now the property of govem-
mentv is open on Tues. (8-6) ; that of the Villa Bilenroc (Mr. Wyllie), at the
extremity of the cape, on Tues. & Frid, (1-5; 1 fr., for the benefit of the poor).
The country traversed now becomes more beautiful. "We cross
the Brogue and the Loup , and leave the coast. — 132 M. Cagnet
(Hdt. Savoumin; H6t. des Colonies; H6t. Isnard), a small town
(3380 inhab.) and winter-resort, has an old castle of the Grimaldis,
with a ceiling-painting (Fall of Phaethon), attributed to Carlone. —
133 M. Cros-de-Cagnei, — Leaving (13472 M.) &t* Laurent ^dw
Var on the left, w« next cross the Fi(r, an impetuous torrent which
formed the frontier of France until the anuexaetloD of Nice. To the
right is t^e Nice racecourse, to the left the Botanic Qarden. —
136 M. Lt Var» The gardens near Nice abound in orange-trees.
140 M. Hiqo {Buffet, d^j. 3 , D. 4 fr.), see p. 476.
The line passes through a tunnel 650 yds. loog under the Cimiez
hill and crosses the Faillon. — 141 M. Hiee^Riquier , a suburb of
Nice. A tuTiDel of 1630 yds. passes under the Montalban.
142^2 M. l^lefhuiehe-sur-Mer {Eden Hotel, on the Nice road:
de la Reserve; dtVXJnivers; Laurent; BelU-Vue, well spoken of),
a naval station with 3860 inhab., beautifully situated between olive-
clad heights, on th'e Qulf of Villefrdnche^ witli a fattous roadstead.
— Tramway to Nice, see p. 484.
A boat may be taken from ViUefranche to the bay of Pau9bl« (75 c,
3 pers. 1 fr.\ from which the peninsula of St. .lean may be crossed to the
village of St. Jean (p. 483).
143V2 M. Beanlieu. — Hotels. *H6tbl Bbistol, a large establish-
ment belonging to an English company, near the sea, with restaurant
and a fifae park, E. & A. 8i/a-20, B. 11/2, d^j- 6, D. 71/2 fr- (three eooeerti
daily V closed from June to Nov,}-, •Hot. Mi^TitoroLn, neltf the highroad,
to Vmtimiglia, BH1A.UL1EU. V, Route 70. 463
io an open situiation on the sea, with the Rettaurant de la Rdierve and
a garden, R. 6-15, B. 11/2^ d*j- 5, D. 6, pens. 16-18 fr. •, •Hot. Krbfft, on
the Villefranehe road, under Grerman management, B. 9-10, B. IV21 d($j.
31/2, D.5, pens. 10-18 fr.i •Empbbss Hotel, E. from 4, B. IVsi d^j- 31/2,
D. 0, pens, from 10 fr.; •Hot. des Amglais bt Victoria, patronized by
the English, similar charges ; Hot. Bbavlibu (Freneh), these three in the
up^er part of th9 village, near the station. — Hot. Bbausitb, new;
Hot. Beausivaob (French), beyond the M^tropole, with open-air restau-
rant, pens. 10 fr.-, Bokd^s Hotbl (English); HoT.-RBSTAuRAitT t>v Gommbrcb,
Hot. dm la. Gasx, both unpretending. — Penaions. Pens, de londrei^ with
garden, from 8 fr. ; Pens, BeUevue; Villa Notre-PeUOy on the St. Jean road.
— Furnished Kooms in several villas; agent, Kun, opposite the station.
Physioiana: Dr. Johnston- Lavis (English); Dr. Hirard de Bessi; Dr.
Coste; Dr. Japs. — Chemiste: Qrosjurie; Thomasi.
Pott and Telegraph Ottoe on the highroad, adjoining the harbour. —
Cab per drive with one horse 1, two horses IV2) a^ night IV2 ^^^ <^V2 ^^- ^
per hour 21/] and 3^/2^ ^^t night 3 and 4 fr. — Electric Tramway to Nice,
see p. 478. — Omnihua from the station at the Pont St. Jean to St. Jean and
Gape Ferrai from 1 SO to 5 p. m. every 10 min. (30 e.>, and from the rail,
station to St. Jean.
English Church Service during the season.
Beaulieu-aur- Mer, the youngest of the larger winter-resorts on
the French Riviera, with 1 100 inhab., is much frequented by English,
French, and German visitors owing to its well-sheltered and sunny
situation (mean temperature during the three winter months about
520Fahr.). It lies on a wide bay, which is bounded to the S.W. by
the long peninsula of St. Jean, amid fine groves of pines and olives
and rich plantations of flgs, carob- trees, oranges, and lemons.
Numerous villas with beautiful gardens (palms, etc.); small harbour
hy the highroad, in the N, E. quarter. On the S. side is the quiet
and charming Formica Bay.
From Beavlieu to St. Jban. From the Formica Bay a pleasant path
(IV4M.), commanding fine views, skirts the seashore and leads past a ser-
ies of handsome villas. The road (9 M.), which diverges from the Ville-
franehe road to the left, beyond the Poni St. Jean (omnibus, see above),
is less attractive. — St. Jean (Hdtel et Pare St. Jean; HOt. Namouna^ with
tbe Restaurant de la Riserve)^ founded by Knights of St. John expelled
from Rhodes in 1&37, is a village inhabited by fishermen by whom tunny-
fishing is largely carried on in spring. To the E. projects the narrow
peninsula of Si. Hospice^ on the extremity of which (reached in 20 min.
hy pleasant promenades) afe an old chapel, a small cemetery, a new
colossal statue of the Virgin, and a tower (rfmts.) commanding a magni-
neent survey of the coast as far as Bordighera (morning light favourable).
Before we reach St. Jean, a road diverging to the right leads, mostly
through pine-wood, to (21/2 M.) Cape Ferrate the S. extremity of the St. Jean
Peninsula, with a restaurant and a botanic garden. Fine view, near the
Villefranehe lighthouse, of the Montboron (p. 484) and Nice. On the top
'8 a fort.
145Vg M. Eze. The (1 Vibr.) old village, on a steep hill, resembles
a fortress from a distance. It has remains of walls and a castle. To
the left is the fortified TSte de Chien (p. 492). — 147 M. Cap d' Ail-
La Turhie (Eden Hotel, 3 min. above the station, R. from 5, B. 2,
d^j. 5, D. 7, pens. 15-20, omnibus 1 fr.). The village is 4 M. dis-
taat, on the Oomiche road (p. 485), and is now reached by a moun-
tain-railway from Monte Carlo. As we approach Monaco, we obtain
464 V. Route 70. VENTltaGLIA.
a flue view, to the right, of the rock on which the town stands. To
the left is the magnificent Cemetery of Monaco.
149 M. Konaco, see p. 489. There is another fine view from the
following viaduct.; Below, to the right, is Condamine; to the left are
the valley of Ste. Devote and the railway to La Turbie (p. 492).
150 VsM. Vonte Carlo, immediately below the Casino, see p. 490.
To the right, farther on, appears Cap Martin, with its hotel and
the Villa Cyrnos (p. 495); behind us are Monte Carlo, Monaco, and
(high up) La Turbie. — 152 M. Cdbhe- Roquebrune. The large
village of Roquebrune or Roccabrunu stands on a height to the left,
near the Corniche road, in the midst of rich plantations of oranges
and lemons. Above are the ruins of a castle. A tunnel of 600 yds.
passes through the Cap Marl in.
154 M. Kentone, see p. 492. The town lies to the right,
f Beyond a tunnel (550 yds.) beneath Mentone is (155 M.) Men-
ton- Caravan, the station for the E. quarters of Mentone (p. 495).
The small torrent of St: Louis, a little farther on, marks the frontier.
We thread six more tunnels (one 600 yds. long) and cross the Roya.
162 M. Ventimiglia, Fr. Vintimille {Buffet; Hotels Suisse et
Termmua, de r Europe, both Italian ; Restaurant Tor^aqhi, Maison
Dor^e, all near the station), a town of 4200 inhab., picturesquely
situated on a hill, rising from the Roya. On the top are the Cath-
edral d^ndih^ Municipio (small collection of Roman antiquities). The
Rue Garibaldi, in the upper town, will interest those who have not yet
visited Italy. It leads to the Porta di Nizj^a, whence it is continued
by the Corniche road. Turning to the right at this gate, and then
keeping to the left, we ascend in '/* ^r. to the ruins of the 13th cent.
Castello d'Appio, from which there is a fine view.
The French and Italian custom-houses are both at Ventimiglia.
Italian (Central Europe) time is 55 min. in advance of French rail-
way-time. Railway to (78 M.) Genoa vi& (3 M.) BcMrdighera, (10 M.)
San Remo, etc., see Baedeker' $ Northern Italy.
An excursion to the fine *VaIley of the Koya and back may be made
in one day as follows : to the frontier^ 13 tt. ; thence to Breil (p. 488),
3 M. ; and thence to Cl M.) la Oiandola (p. 488), where w« join the route
to Tenda 9 M. from tSan Dalmatzo di Tenda (p. 489), whence we return. Dil-
igence from Ventimiglia to (32 M.) Vievola (p. 489) twice daily in 91/j hrs.
71. Tonlon. Hydres.
Hotels. Granp-Hotbl (PI. a; E, 2)^ Place de la Liberte, no| far from the
station, R. from 21/2* pens, from 10 fr. •, Or. Hot. Victoria (PI. b; E,F, 3),
Boulevard de Strasbourg 27, near the theatre, R. 3-8, B. I1/9, d4}. 3,
Dj 31/8 fr. •, »E tJL pAlx (PI. c. ;E,3), Place d'Armet 5 ♦do Lowra (PI. d; E, 3),
Bue Corneille 11, near the theatre, d^j, 21/21 I>- 3 fr. ; D" Kord, Place
Puget (PL e ; E, 8), same charges v Hot. du Port, Quai de Cronstadt, near
the Arsenal, small, dej. 21/2, D. 3 fr.
Oafte - Bestaurants. (k^f4 du Commerce^ at the faarboaf*; 0. dt lu MmrtM^
Plaoe d'Armes; Continental, Botonde, Ca,fi et Taveme AUaeUnne, Caaino^
all in the BouleTard de Strasbourg. Bufet at the station. '
>.
^
8te: MaHe- Majeure. TOt^LON. Y, RouH 7h 465
Oabt. Per drive in tbe town, 3'pers. 1 fp. % c.^ 4 pers. 1 fr. 60 c, at
nieht (10 n. m. to 6 a. m.) I1/2, 3 fr. \ per hour, IS/4 and 2 fr., at night
31/11 and Sfr,} 90 e, for each trunk.
Sleofoio Tramways (eomp. the Plan). 1. From La VaUtie^ on the S. £,
of the Faron (p. 467), vi& the suburb of St. Jean-du- Var, the Bbulevard de
Strasbourg (PI. D-F, 1-3), and the suburb of L« Lai, to Ottioules (p. 458). —
3. From the Statiou (PI. E, 1), via X« MouriUtm (PI. I>-F, 6-8), to the Saitu
Ste. Hilhne (PI. F, 8). — Fares 10-20 c.
Steamboats to St. Mandrier and La Seyne^ see p. 467^ to PorqueroUes
(p. 470; fares 3l^, IV2 *>••) »n^ Porteiraa (p. 470; 3, 2fr.>, tlwlee aweelc.
— SnaM Boata, about 2l/a fr. per hr.; l^argain belbrehand.
Baths, P^&ce . d'Armes 14, Rue l^euve 14, ete. — Sba Baths at Le
Mourillon (PI. 1^,8; tramway).
Post 4nd Telegraph Office (PI. £,2,3), Rue Hippolyte Dupras.
British Tice-Consal, Mr. N. C. Haag. — American Consular Agent, Mr. B.
A. Jouve.
TculoniiOi^ 172lnhab.)^ a fortress of the first class, and after Brest
the most Important naval station Ih France, is finely situated on a
deep and well - sheltered bay of the Mediterranean , surrounded by
hills which are studded with detached forts^
Toulon, the Greek TeUmion and the Rdman Telo Martiut, is said to
have been founded by the Phcenieians, who established purple dye-worlcs
here. Its importance, however, is entirely modern. It was twipe talcen
by Charlee V., in 1524. and 1536, but in 1707 .it vueoeasfully resisted
the combined fleets of England and HoUalid and the army of Prince Eugene.
In 1793 it was givefa up by the Royalists to the English and their
Banish and Keapolitan allies. It was- in the six w^elcs" siege by whieh
(hose .were driven out that Bonaparte, th^ an airtillcry officer, first
distinguished himself.
The Railway Station (PI, £, 1) facQS the Place ya^ban, with a,
War Monument for. 1870-*? 1 by Guglielmo. Froi^ this square the
Avenue Vauban leads to the Boulevard de Strasbourg, which crosses
the town from E. to W. We turn to the left to the Place de la
Libert^ (Pi. E, 2), in which is a *Fotmtain erected in 1890 in honour
of the French Revolution, with statues by Andr^ AUar.
The Theatre (PI. E, 3), a little farther to the E. , is a handsome
modern edifice containing 1800 seats, built by Feucheres and Char-
pentier. To the S.E. of it is the small Place Puget (PL E, 3), with
a picturesque fountain (1780). Hence the harbour (p, 466) may be
reached direct via the Rue Hoche ax^. the -Rue d^Alger. We proceed
to the S;E. as far as th« handsome Cours Lafayette and then turn to
the right.
Ste. Xarie-llfljeiire j(Pl. E, 3, 4), the former cathedral, a short
distance oflP by the Rue Traverse-Cath^drale, on the right, is a Ro-
manesque edifice of the il-^12th centuries. The fai^ade was added
in the 17tb'cent. , when the chuYch was considerably enlarged, and
the belfry In the 18th.
Idtbrior. — In the. chapel to the ri^ht of the choir are a fine *Rere-
do8 by pupils of Puget, with the Eternal Father surrounded by angels,
ofwTkich the two bearing cetosfcrs,'by FeyrtVr, should be noticed, and an
Entombment of the Virgin, by Yerdiguier (to the left, under glass). In
a niche' above the arcade ,of the chapel to ,t^e left of the ohoir is a fipe
gilt Virgin, surrounded by angels, attributed to Puget^ while in the chapel
itself are a Virgin by CanovaCi) and several paintings; fo the left of thd
Baedeker. Southern France. 4th Edit. 30
466 F. Boute 71. TOULON, Atunal.
ebapel is an Assumption by P. Mignard. Tbe somewhat heavy pulpit is
by Bubae of Toulon.
Near the end of the Gours Lafayette is the Place Louis Blanc,
with the 18th cent. Church of St, Jean or St. Fran^ois-de-Paule
(Pi.E, 4). ~ Passing through the Porte Neuve (Pi. F, 5), we may
visit hence the large S. suburb of Le MourUlon (electric tramway,
see p. 465).
The Harbonr consists of 5 principal basins. The VieUle Dorse,
to the E., is the oldest, and is now used chiefly for the 8u]^ply of
materials necessary for the fleet ; the others , with the exception of
the small Commercial Harbour (PI. E, 5), are reserved for ships of war.
Outside the basins are the spacious and well-sheltered roadsteads
of the Petite and the Grande Rade^ connected by a wide channel between
the Ponte Pipady on the left and the Fort de VAiguillette on the right.
It was by the capture of this fort, which commands the harbour^ that
the struggle was decided in 1793 and the English compelled to beat a
hasty retreat. Farther off are the Fort Balaguier and the Fort NapoUon,
formerly Fort Caire^ surnamed the PeUt-CfUtraUar ^ which also played an
important part in 1793. The OrandeRade is bounded on the S., about 3 If.
from Toulon, by the Cape Cipet^ a prolongation eastwards of the Cape Sxci4
Peninsula (p. 467), which forms the W. side of both roadsteads, so that they
are accessitile only from the £., between Cap Cepet and Gap Brun.
The H6tel de Tille (PI. 8; E, 4), in the Carre du Port near the
centre of the busy Qua! de Cronstadt, has two fine Atlantes by Puget
(1656). In the square is a colossal bronze statue by Daumat, re-
presenting the Genius of Navigation, and close by is a double herma
of Janus and Jupiter, by Hubac. — The Rue d* Alger, farther on, is
the busiest street of old Toulon. To the left is the Church of St. Pierre
(PI. 6'; E, 3, 4), with a fine pulpit and statues by Hubac.
The Arsenal Karitime (PI. A-D, 1-4), at the end of the quay, may
be visited on week-days. Foreigners are not admitted without an
introduction from their government, countersigned by the respons-
ible French minister.
The arsenal, which is entered by a gateway built in 1788, was begun
in the reign of Louis XIV. on the vij^m of Vauban. It covers an ares
of 6t)0 acres and employs about 12,(m) workmen. It presents the usual
features of such establishments, including a Ifav€U Museum ^ a tastefully
arranged Armoury , Rope Walks , Workshops , and Magazines. The islet
between the Darse Neuve and the Darse Vieille, containing the Oramnf
Doeks^ was used as the Boffno until .1873, since which date convicts have
been transported to Kew Caledonia. — There are also large dockyards
known as the Arsenal du Mourillon^ to the E. of the roadstead, beyond
the commercial harbour, where iron and wooden ships ire built, and the
stores of timber kept in enormous trenehes.
A visit to a man-of-war in the roadstead is also interestiiig (boat
see p. 465). ■ Permission is readily given by the officer on dut).
Gratuities forbidden.
The Place d*Arhe8 (PI. 0, E,2, 3), with its handsome plane
trees, is the most important open space in the town. A band plays
here every afternoon (except Mou. and Sat.). At the W. end is the
Prefecture Maritime (PI. 10), built in 1786-88; to the S. E. is the
Church of St. Louis (PL E, 3).
MuU^Bibliotf^e. TOULON, Vr Route 7 J, 467
The Rue Courbet leads from the Prefecture to tlie Place St. Rock
(PI. D, 2), and the Avenue Lazare Oarnot leads hence to the Jardin
de la Ville (PI. D, 1), a fine promenade at the VV. end of the Boule-
vard de Strasbourg (p. 466), containing a 17th cent, church-doorway,,
forming part of a fountain. A military band plays here on Satur-
days. Behind is the HopitcU Civil,
The Kiui6e-Bibliofh^U6 (PI. D, 2), a bandsome^uilding (1883-87)
with a logg^ia, in the Italian style, is open daily (except Sat. & Mon.) ,
2-5 (in winter 1-4); to strangers at other times also.
Tbe GroOko Flooi is mainly devoted to seulptureA, ca«ts, ^Ided bas*-
reliefs from, the arsenal (of the Sehooi-o/ Pugtt)^ terraooitas ,• layeace, etc.
A small room contains inseriptions and other antiquities y and adjaeent
are two rooms with a natural history eolleetion (ehiefly conehylia).
FiBST Flooe. The handsome staircase ascends to the Loggia^ which is
decorated with frescoes hy Montenard^ Oattiany B. Dauphin^ and others. To
the right is the Pictvbb &allbrV (vestibule and two rooms), containing
works by J. Victorty L. Dttvidy Mdntenwd^ Protaii^ Fepen^Perriny Leleux^ Lar-
gilUhre^ Boucher ^ SoUmenay Verbruygeti y Tvumemirey Ifoiroty J. A. Laurenty
LehouXy Lftffreniey M. d* Hondeeoitery Garciny P. Le/ivrey Delacroix y etc.
The Library (open on week-days, except Sat., if-13 and 2-5; closed in
Aug. and Sept.) possesses 32,000 vols. , a MS. Bible of 1442, and a collec-
tion of coins.
A little beyond the museum the Boulevard passes the end of the
Avenue Vauban (p. 465) and then the Place de la Libert^ (p. 465).
Ezeurtloui. — To Tamaris, Lbs Sablbttbs, amd St. Makdribr, on the
Peninsulas of Cap Sieii and Cap G^pet (p. 466), crossing both the roadsteads,
strongly recommended. Steamer from the end of the Rue d'Alger, almost
every hour, crossing in IS-d&min. (fare 15-25 c). — Tamaris (Orand-NGtet
de Tamaris; Balaguier) is a small winter -resort, named from the tama-
risks fringing the shore. It is also served by the station of La Seyne (see
below). It has a biological laboratory of the University of Lyons. — Lea
Sabletfes (U6i. des Sablettes ; de la Plague) is a bathing-resort on the tongue
of land uniting the two peninsulas. — St. Handrier consists mainly of a
Seamen's Hospital^ shown only by permission of the ''Directeur du Service
de Sattte\ Adjoining is' a flne Botanic Garden y with palms and other
exotics. On a hill farther to tbe S.E. is a Pyramidy erected iii memory
of Admiral Latouche - Treville (d. 1805), on the spot whence he surveyed
the British fleet blockading Toulon. The *Vlew is magnificent.
To THB Cap Brun (*View), to tbe E., Omnibus hourly from the Place
Armand- Valid, near the Porte dltalie (PI. F, 4), on the E. sid^ of the
town (25 c). ,
Tour op thb Cap Sicib Pbmimsula , an excursion of half-a-day., re-
commended in clear and calm weather. A steamer plies every 1/2 hr.
(15 and 10 c.) to La Seyne (1/4 hr.^ p. 456), where carriages may be hired
(15 fr.) to visit the picturesque peninsula. The Urst point reached is Six-
Fours (3M. to the W.^ 1/2 hr. by carriage), a small decayed .town on an
isolated hill (700 ft.), owing its name to six mediaeval forts, replaced by
a modern one in 1876. The church, of the 10th and 17th cent., contains
a triptych of the 15ihcent., and a Virgin in marble, attributed to Puget.
Fine view from the snUimit of the hill. Tbe next point id (1 hr.) Bru»i
(hotel) , a small seaport-village on the ,W. coast Coiiu^lbus once daily to
Toulon in 2 hrs. , 75 c.) , whence a picturesque path leads along the cliff
to the (I1/2 hr.) Chapel of Notre - Dame - de - la - Qarde (1175 ft.), much fre
quented by pilgrims in the month of May. We nroeeed to (I/4 hr.) the
neighbouring Semaphore and tbeucje descend to (20min.) the hamlet o-
Janas or Les Mais (inn). We now return to La Seyne direct (1 hr.) or
via I/es Sablettes and Tamaris (2 hrs.; see above). The last steamer
leaves La Seyne ^where it is not advisable to dine)'ai 7 p. m.
30*
468 F. R(mt€ 77. HYERES. H&t9h.
The Faro* (1790 ft.) and th« Coud^n (2305 ft.)^ to the N. of Toulon, are
crowned with forts and therefore not accessible to strangers. — OtUouUi^
see p. 468. — The Ghftrtreuse of Mantriettx^ see p. ^.
Fbom Toulon to Hyekes. — Railway, 13 )I.« in i/s-1 hr. (fares
2 fr. 35, 1 fr. 60, 1 fr. 5 c). — By Egad, 11 H.; public conveyances from
the Place Puget several times daily in li/s hr. ; fare 1 or ^/a fr. The rail-
way is to be preferred. Circular tickets vi& Hy^es and Bt. Raphael to
Nice, with return vi& Gamoules, valid fov a fortni|;bt, 98, 21, and 14 fr.
Toulon, see p. 464. The line leaves that to Nice at (6Vt H.)
La Pauline (p. 458). — 8VsH. La.Crau. To the right are the Montt
du Paradis (980 ft.) and dea Oiseaux (p. 469) ; to the left, the ehain
of the Maurettta (see below), to the S. of which lies Hyerea.
1.3 M. Hydras. — ArrivaL The O^e du Paris- Lyon-MidiUrran^t and
the Oare du 8ud-France lie side by side, ^W^i. to the S. of the centre
of the town. The Ligne d|i Sud has another station (Hyhret-Ville) 1/4^*
to the E. of the town, near the end of the Ave. 'des Palmiers (pp.469,
470). Hotel-omnibuses meet the trains. Oab 1 fr.
Hotels. *Graki>-H6tsl dbs Ilbs-d'Or, near the W. ftnd of the Avenue
des Iles-d'Or, E. 31/2-6, B. li/a, d^j. 31/3, D. 5, pens, from 9, omn. II/4 fr.-,
*Gr. Hot. Coktimbmtal, Boul. Marie-Louise, a little higher, R. from 4l/s,
B. 11/3, d^j. 3Vsf !>• 5, pens. 10-15, omn. 2 fr. ^ *HdTBi' dbs Bbsp^sidbs,
a little farther to the W. ; *Gb. Hotbl dbs Palmibhs, below the Place
des Palmiers, R. 4-7, B. I1/2, d^. 4, D. 6 (incl. wine), pens. 9-15, omn.
IfV. ; *H6t. DBS AwBAssADBUBs , HOT. D^BusopB, nearer the middle of the
Avenue des Iles-d^Or; Hdv. du Pabc, *HdT. dbs iLBs-D'HTisBs , both in
the Avenue des palmiers, R. 21/2-5, B. t, dej. 2i/s, 0.3, pens. Ti/^ fr.,
including wine; *Vi&T. db Pabis, Ave. Oambetta, R. from 21/9, d^. 3,
D. 31/2, pens. 8 fr., the last two open all the year round. •— Okavd-
HdrxL Mktbopolb, Rue d'Orient, near the Jardin Denis; HStbl bt Pbvs.
DBS Btravoehs, Boul. St. Antoine, in the same quarter, pens. 7-9 tt. —
*HdTBL Ohatbaubriamd, Boul. Chateaubriand^ Vf^* ^o the £. of the
centre of the town, B. 2, dej. 31/2, D. 4, pens. 1()-14, omn. U/s fi"-; Pbks.
BBAu-SijouR, Rue Beau-Seiour. — Hotels at CSs«<«6«{<€, see p. 469. —
Numerous Apartmenit and Vma» to be let <comp. p. 469). HouBe Agents:
Y.:A»iiert Avenue Gambetta 13; Veuvt Jauan, Avenue des IU8-d*0r 4.
Caftft. Mai$on Dorie, at the Hdt. de Paris ; Gafi dt VUnivers^ Avenue
des Palmiers; Cttfi du Siiele, pliMse de la Rade.
. Casino, Avenue des Palmiers. 1
Cabs. Per drive IVa f?'i P^' br. 2 fr. for 2 persona; landaus for
1-4 pers. 2 and 3 fr. ; at night (6 or 7 p. m. to 7 a. m.) 2, 3, 31/3, Si/s fr.
Special tariff for certain drives outside the town.
Omnibus fh)m the upper end of the Avenue Gambetta to (UfsiebeU^
(p. 469) at 9, 11.30, 1, 2, 3, and 4; to Cfiens (p. 470), at 8, 11, and 2 (fare
75 c.)'^ from the Place de la Rade to Garqueiraime (p. 470), at 8.15, 11, 1,
and 5.30 (fare 60 e.).
Toat and Telefraph Ofttee, Avenue des Palmiers 2.
Britfth Yioe-€en»al! 0. Gorbett.
Enflifth Ohureh (St. PauVs)^ Avenue des lles^*Or and Avenue Victoria.
Winter Chaplain, Rev. P. 0. LitOer, U. A.
Hyerea, a town with 17,700 inhab., is finely situated, 3 M. from
the sea, on the aiope of a steep hill , and sheltered by the chain of
the Maurettes (96^ ft.), the S.W. spur of the Mantes (p. 470), ftrom
the cold N. and N.E. winds, though not entirely Arom the Mistral,
the plague of Provence. It is the oldest of the Mediterranean winter-
resorts. The climate is exceptionally mild and dry, hut It is some-
what variable, and the vegetation of its magnificent gardens of orange
and olive trees, palms, and oleanders has been known to suffer for
ExcurHont. HYERES. V, Route 71. 469
a considerable period from the severe cold. Hyeres supplies Paris
with a large quantity of flowers (violets) and early fruit (strawberries)
and vegetables, representing an annual value of 35,000-40,000^.
Hyeres lies about Vt M. from the station , with which it is con-
nected by 8 fine avenue of palms. This avenue leads to the New
Ti)wn, at the foot of a hill, and ends at a transverse street, 174 ^•
long, called Avenue de$ Jlu-d'Or to the W. and Aventte Alpkonae
DenU to the E. Beyond this street, on the slope of the hill, lies
the Old Tovm, with its narrow streets.
Near the middle of the Avenue des Iles-d'Or is the Place des
FcUmiers, which is embellished with fine date-palms and a pyr-
amid in honour of Baron Stulx (d. 1832), a German tailor who
made a large fortune in London and used it for beneyolent pur-
poses in the town of Hyeres. A band plays here on Wed. and Sun.
afternoons during the season.
In the Place de la Rade, farther to the E. , is the so-called
Chateau Denis, containing the Public Library y open daily,- except
Thurs. and Sun., from 9 to 11 and 1 to 4, and a small Museum,
chiefly of natural history, open on Sun. and Thurs. from 1 to 5 p. m.
Behind is the public Jar din de la Ville, the former Jar din Denis,
recently enlarged towards the E., with numerous palms.
To the S. of the E. part of the Avenue Alphouse Denis and parallel
to it is the flne Avenue des PalnUers, with more than 70 date-palms,
some of the trees bearing fruit, though it does not ripen. The Avenues
Beauregard and Alexis Godillot, farther down, near the Place des
Palmiers, are also well supplied with palms.
To the N* of the Place de la Rade is the Place de la Republique,
a shady promenade with a bronze statue, by P^cou, of Massillon
(1663-1742), the famous preacher, who was a native of Hyeres. To
the right is the Church of 8t. Louis, of the 12th cent., but rebuilt in
1822-40. — The street opposite ascends to the small Place Massillon,
with the Hotel de ViUe, formerly a chapel of the Templars. Farther
on, in the same direction, is the Church of St, Paul, commanding
a fine view. — We may ascend thence in V4 hr. to the villa on the site
of the ancient Castle. There are considerable remains of the ramparts
and towers near the summit (adm. from 8 a. m. to 5 p. m. ; fee).
From the summit (670 ft.) the finest *View of Hyeres is obtained.
Near the station is a Jar din d' Acclimatation , a branch of that
in Paris. Admission free.
Sxonxsioiu. — To Gostsbbllb, I8/4 H. (omnibus see p. 468; can*.
31/3 fr.). Coatebelle i Grand -Hdt. Hermiiage^ Costebette et d* Albion, three
first -class houses, B. from 7, B.2., dej. 4, D. 6, pens. from. 10 fr.; ffdt.-
Pen*. Les Mimosas^ pens. 7-10 fr.) is a group of hotels and. villas on a
hiU (380 ft.) to tlie.S. of Hyires, mueh frequented by the English. The
terrace in front of the old Chapel of the Virgin commands a magnificent
view of the Maurettes (p. 468), to the N., and over the coast and sea.
To the W. is the charming Val de Cottebelle^ and on the other side the
Mont des Oiseaux (1004 ft.), with a fine view, may be aseendedin 1 V2 br- In
the valley are pretty villas; farther or, St. Pierre-des-Horts (Lat. ^liortus^),
with a modern Gothic chateau. Still farther to the S., on the Quif of Oiem,
470 V, Rmte 71. ILES D'HTfelES.
are the ntins of the (^nvtnief 8i. Pierre d'AUnanarre^ mud 611 the sesAhore
near some baths, 21/3 M. from Hyeret, are the aeanty ruins of PompontfMM,
a Gallo- Roman town, of which nothing is known historieally. This ex-
cursion may be combined with that to the Giens Peninsula, the New 8alt
Marshes being only 8/4 M. to the S.B. of! Pomponiana. — On the gallL to the
W., are the magnUicent ChdUau 0/ San Salvttdour and the village of Car^un-
ranne (Hdt. Beau-Rivage), 5 H. to the S.W. of Hyires (omn., see p. 468}.
• To THE Samds-d'Hy&res or the Old 8<ut Marshes ^ 5M., railway in
15-20 min. (fares 1 fr., 70, 45 c). — At (Zi/a M.) LA Plage the railway reaches
the coast. Here Henri IV planned the rebuilding of the town of Hyeres
after its destruction in the Wars of Religion, and some of the walla of
the harbour, which was actually begun, mav still be seen. To the S.W.
is a Hippodretne. 17ear the station is La Bieoque^ a villa with a garden
and aquarium open lo visitors (eaf^s-restanrsnts and sea-baths). — 5 M.
Salina-d'Hyires (Restaurant). The Old Salt Marshes ^ about 1000 acres in
extent, with an annual produce of 10,000 tons of salt, are interesting
only in summer. The village lies some way from the station, near which
is a landing stage for the training-ships in the Roadstead (see below).
To the GiEvs Pevivsula (New Salt Marshes). A road, passing to the
£. of the hill named the Ermitage (330 ft.), leads directly 8. to the penin-
sula, 3 M. from Hyeres (public conveyance 2-3 times daily ^ 75 c). The
Kew Salt Marahea (SaHins-New^s) are more than 1200 acres in extent and
annually produce about 10,(X)0 tons of salt. About 8 M. farther on is the
hamlet of Giens (Orand-H6tel Audibert; HCt. de la Paix^ moderate), with
some inconsiderable ruins of a castle. On a bay to the S. is the Reni-
Sabran Sanatorium^ for scrofulous children. Upon a rock at the extrem-
ity of the peninsula, which is 31 /s M. long, is a small fort. La Jhur
Fondue , on the site of an old castle. — To the E. is the Hyteaa Koad-
stead, often used for the evolutions of the Toulon squadron. It is well
sheltered, with an area of about 60 sq. M. and a depth of 290 ft. To
the S. of the penioiula is the small ialand of Roubaudy with a light
house, one of the lies d'Hy^res (see below).
To THB Ilbs D^HvisEs: steamer thrice weekly from Toulon in 2-3 hrs.
to Porquerolles and Porteros (2V2'3 fr. ^ see p. 465) and sail-boat from
G-iens (in connection with the omnibus) to Porquerolles (75 c). -> The
Ilea d'HTirvs, the Stoeehades of the aneietits, also known at one time as
the lies d''Ory are four in number : PorquerolleSy the largest and nearest to the
Giens Peninsula, 5 M. long by IV4M. wide •, Porteros^ more to the E., 2Va M.
by IV2 M.; the He du Levant or d« THan, still farther to the E., almost as
large as the first-mentioned^ and the small island of Aii^atid, to the M. of
Porteros. They are thinly populated, and partly fortified. Their elinaate
is inferior to that of Hyeres. PorgweroHe* (H6tel Gauthier j des Iles-d^Or,
good and moderate; H$t. -Restaurant du Progr^s, d^j. 8 fr.)is well wooded
and afl'ords some pleasant walks (to the <kq> des Medes, etc.).
From HviRBs to St. Raphajbl by thb Coast, 511/s M., narrow-gauge
railway in 38/4-4 hrs. (fares 6 fr. 40, 4 fr. 70 c. ; no 3rd cl.). The station
is close to the station of the Paris and Lyons line at Hyeres. Best views
to the right-, view -ears. Except where it cuts ttirongh the eapes
and projecting points, this line skirts the coast, the efaeltered bays of
which are well adapted for winter health-resorts. On the left iV.) rise
the Moniagnes des Mtntres, a well -wooded range of considerable interest,
though with no summit above 2560 ft. — Beyond (2M.) Hyhres-VHU the
Oapeau and Pansard are crossed. 61/3 M. La Londe^ near the lead-mines
of Bormettes. — lOVj M. La Verrerie., near the fine Porit du Don. — 13 M.
Bonnes (Hdt. St. Francois), with 2060 inhab., has cork -manufactories and
a ruined eh&teau. — 14 M. Le Lavandou (Hdt. de la M^diterran^e ^ des
Etrangers), a small fishing - village , in a picturesque situation protected
from the Mistral, derives its name from the lavender that covers the
neighbouring hills. — 23 M. i^ DatHer^ the warmest place on this coast,
with fine date-palms. Tunnel. — 25 M. Cavalaire^ which has a fine beach,
is one of the most sheltered spots on the shores of the Mediterranean.
26V4 M. Purdigmiy with an old ehftteau transformed into a hotel (E. 2i/i,
^■1
■^*»
^ — 1
CANi^ES. V. R&ute 72. 471
pens, b-d ft.). — 8OI/9 M. ilMsin^ an old Moorish village on a height to the
right (Martinis Inn). — 931/2 H. La Fovz (pron. Pousse), near the OtUf
of St. Tropet. An adjoining raeeeourse is the seene of a raee-meefcing in
Joly. — Steam-tramways ply hence to (31/^ M.) St. Tropet (HdUl 8ube;
ConHHtntal)^ a small seaport (9800 inhab.) and fortress, with a eitadel eom-
manding the wide Gulf of St. Tropex, and to (3V3 V.) Oof dlin (H6t. Cauvet:
carriages dear), a well-built and pleasantly situated village (9050 inhab.)
to the W., with the tower of an aneient eastle and a Renaiasance church.
About 2 M. to the N. of Cogolin lies Gritnaud (see below) and 71/3 M.
to the K.W. is La OanLe-Freiaet (HSt. Ihtchs), a village with 1873 inhab.,
on a col of the Mbntagnes des Maures, dominated bv the ruins of Le Frcueinti,
the chief stronghold of the Saracens in the 9*i0th centuries. — An in-
teresting excursion may be made from Cogolin to (15 M. ; carr. 15 fr.)
Ui Veme^ situated to the W. , among the Maures, with its old CourrerU
(in ruins) and the aneient Gharirnue de la Verne (now a farm^ rfmts.).
We may return via (51/3 H.) La MdU or vii (9 hrs.) GoUobriires (p. 460).
Beyond La Foux the railway skirts the shores of the gulf. — 35 H.
Grimaud^ the station for (3 M.) Orimaud (Hdt. du Midi), a decayed little
town with a ruined castle of the Grimaldi family. — 38^/2 H. Ste. Maxime-
Plaa-de-la-Tour. 8U. Maxtme-tur-Mer (Grand Hdtel; Hot. Grillon; villas
to let), a small seaport with 1030 inhab., is frequented as a winter-resort.
he Flan- de-la- Tbtir (hotel), 51/2 H. distant among the mountains, was
originally a Saracen village. — Beyond (461/2 M.) 8t. AygtUf the train
crosses the ttang de Villepey and the embouchures of the Argen* and the
Reyran. — 60 M. Frdjut (p. 459). The station lies V4 M. to the S.W. of
the town and 1/2 M. from the station on the other railway. — 6IV2 ^- ^*
Raphael (p. 461). The station is close to that of the Paris and Lyons line.
72. Cannes and its Environs.
Arrival. The Railway Station (PL E,4), for the trains to Marseilles
&Bd Nice (B. 70), and to Grasse (p. 475), is in the centre of the town , a
short distance from the sea. Cabs, see p. 473; Hotel- Omnibuxe», 1 fr.
Hotela atnd Paaeiana (most of the larger ones have lifts). On the S.
ride of the toum, between the railway and the roadstead: *0s. Hot. db Gaxvbs
(PI. F, 5), Boul. de la Croisette, B. 6-17, B. 9, d^j. 4, D. 6, pens. 16-95, omn.
1 fr. and 1/2 fr. per trunk; *Gbat bt d'Albiov (PI. E, 5), Boul. de la Croi-
sette and Bne d'Antibes, with large garden, B. 6-14, d^j. 4, D. 6, pens. 12-
aOfr.; *Beav-Bivagb (PI.E,5), Bue de la Foux^ B. 41/2-91/2, B. 9, d^j. 4,
D. 6, pens. 10-90 fr.; •Gobwbt bt de la Bbiub (Pi. F,5), Boul. delaCroi-
sette, R. 5, B. I1/2, d6j.4, D. 5, incl. wine, pens, from 9 fr.; •New Royal,
Boul. de la Croisette, B. $-8, B. li/t, d^j. 3, D. 4, pens. 8-19fr. — ♦Hot.
DB LA Plaob (PI. F,r)) Boul. do la Croisette, B. 3-8, L. & A. ii/4, B. li/a,
dej. 3, D. 41/2, pens. 10-15 fr.; Richelibu (PI. £,5), Bue Bossu and Boul.
de la Croisette, B. 3, B. 11/2* d^j- 3, D. 31/2, pens. 9-12 fr.; •H6t. Bvissb
(PL F,5), Bue du Cercle-Nautigue, B. 81/2*, B. I1/9, d(5j. 3, D. 4, pens.
9-13 fr.; H6t. Augusta (PI. F, 0); H6t. Cosmopolitain, Bue d'Autibes 98
(PL E, F, 5), B. 4-7, B. IV22 d^j. di/2, D. 4, incl. wine, pens. 9-14 fr. ; Pens.
ANME-THiiRBSE (PL F, 5), Ruc d'OustinoflF (pens. 7-10 fr.); H6t. Victoria
(pens. 8^10 fr.), Hot. dd LuxBMbouko, Pbbs. Waorah (from 7 fr.), these
three in the Rue d^Antibes.
/» th* centre of the U}wn: *Splbndid Hotel (Pi. E, 5), Bue F^lixFaure*
R. 7-14, B. 9, dei. 5, D. 6 fr. ; H6t. de l'Umivbbs (PL E, 4), Bue de la Gare,
R. 3, B. 1, d^j. 31/2, D. 4, wine inel., pens. 9-10 fr.; Hdr. db« KiiOooiAVTS
bt DBS GoLOMiBB (PI. E, 4), oppositc the station, B. 3-8, B. l-U/si ^^i- 3,
D. 4, pens. 9'13fr.; Hot. Helvetia, Hot, Uhion-Svisse, Bue St. Nicolas.
near the station, B. from IVs fr.
On the W. side, in the ^Bnglieh Quarier\ the most sheltered: *B.&t. dBv
pRincBS(PL D,5), Rue deFrejus and Bou*. duMidi, pens. from9fr.; ♦Hot.
pu PavUp^jON (PI. C, 5; R. 5-, D. 5, Incl. wrae, pens, 10-19 f».), pw Hbldbb,
474 V, Route 72. CANNES. AlUe$ de la TAhetU.
The Boulevard de la Groisette , begiiiniDg V4 M. from the rail,
station, at the end of the Rue Bossu, and close by the harbour,
skirts the Roadstead (Rade de Cannes) and leads to the E. to the
(2M.) Pointe de la Croisette , opposite the lie Ste. Marguerite (p.
475). On this boulevard are several of the chief hotels and various
sumptuous villas , the rent of which for the season is said to be
sometimes as much as 25,000 francs.
Above the harbour, on the right, rises the Ko&t Cheyalier
(PI. D, 5),. an eminence on which lies the picturesque old quarter of
Le Suquet. Here are the remains of a ch&teau, the old Parish
Church of the 13th cent., and an ancient Tower (key at the adjoin-
ing pottery; 50 c), commanding a magnificent *View.
At the W. end of the Boul. de la Oroisette extend the AlMes de
la Liberty (PI. D, E, 5), the principal promenade within the town,
embellished with a marble statue (by Li^nard) of Lard Brougham
(d. at Cannes in 1868), who made the reputation of the town by
settling here in 1634. A flower-market is held here every morning.
— Farther on is the H6tel de Ville (PI. D, 5) , on the groundfloor of
which is a Museum of antiquities and ethnography (open ou Sun.,
Tues., Thurs., & Sat., 10-12 and 2-4; closed in Aug.)» On the sec-
ond floor are the Municipal Library^ a small Art (Jallety, and a
Cabinet of Natural History (open on week-days, 9-1.2 and 2-5).
The Harbour Is unimportant , except for yachts. Beyond the
pier begins the Boulevard du Midi, to the right of which lies the
pretty Square Brougham (PI. C, 5). Above are the Rue and the Route
de Frejus, a long thoroughfare leading hence to the W. through the
well-sheltered English Quarter, which extends to La Bocca (p. 475 ;
tramway), nearly 2 M. from the Hotel de Ville. There are many Une
villas in this quarter, with beautiful gardens. Visitors are freely
admitted to the garden of the Hotel du Pare (PL C, 4 ; p. 472).
The hills to the N. and N.E., beyond the railway, are also cov-
ered with villas and gardens ; and the town is growing rapidly on
this side. One of the favourite walks and drives (carr. for 3 pers.
10 fr.; omn., see p. 473) is laid out here on the hill of La Calif or-
nie (PI. I, 4 ; 765 ft.) , 2V2 M. to the E. of the H6tel de Ville (fine
*View). At the top of the hill are a caf^-restaurant and a belvedere
(50 c). — Farther on is Vallauris (p. 461), whither we may descend
via St. Anthony's Chapel, and return to Cannes by tramway or
railway. — A fine *View is also obtained from a tower at Le
P^zou (845 ft. ; see p. 475), near the spot known as the *Grand Pin'
(PI. G,H,1).
On the W. side of the town, a little beyond the entrance to the
Hdtel du Pare, a road diverges to the right to the (2 M.) Croix des
Gardes (540 ft; PI. A, 3), in the wood of that name (fine views;
brake thrice daily, 8 fr. there and back). This road passes above
the Villa El/on ore- Louise (PI. B, 4), the first built at Cannes,
and occupied by Lord Brougham (see above).
Environs of Cannes, GRASSE. V. Route 72. 476
Environs of Oannes.
Le Gannet {Hotels, see p. 472; tramway, see p. 473; cab, 6 fr.
there and back), with 2600 inhab., about IV4 M. to the N. vi& the
Boul. Camot (PI. E, 4-1), is a favourite goal for walks, and also a
well-sheltered winter-resort adapted for invalids who cannot Hvc
near the sea. — We may return ft*om Le Cannet by (V2 i*r.) Le
Pezou and La Catifomie, to the S.E. (see p. 474). — Vallauris
(p. 461) lies about 2 M. to the N.E.
The ♦Ile« de L^rins (comp. inset map on l*lan), a favourite
point of excursions from Cannes , situated opposite the Pointe de
la Croisette, the promontory which separates the Qolfe de la
Napoule from the Oolfe Juan, may be reached either by steamer
(see p. 473) or by small boat from La Groisette to Ste. Marguerite
in V2 ^'- (^*re 50 c). — On Sainte Marguerite (Restaurant de
la Reserve), the largest of the islands, is situated a Fort, in which
'the Man with the Iron Mask' (probably Mattioll, the minister of
Puke Charles Ferdinand of Mantua) was kept in close confinement
from 1687 to 1698, and which is also well known as the prison of
Marshal Bazaine in 1873-74. The island commands a fine survey
of Cannes, the coast, and the Maritime Alps. — On the island of
St. Honorat (Cafe-Restaurant des Lerins) rises the celebrated Mon-
astery of Lerins, founded in 410, and now occupied by Cistercian
monks, who have added an orphanage (men admitted on week-
days to part of the monastery). Adjacent is a sti'onghold or keep,
built in 1073-1190 as a refuge from pirates (adm. 50 c; fine view).
Walks or drives may be taken to the Hermitage of St. C<M»ie%^ 21/2 BI. frum
the centre of Cannes, to the W., and to LaNapottle (p. 461), 3 H. farther on.
Thioule^ a railway-station (p. 461), U/4 H. farther on,, may also be reached
by steamer. — About 3 K. %q the N.E. of Cannes , beyond La Cali/ornie
(p. 474), lies VaUauris (see p. 461). — About 71/2 M. to the N.W., beyond La
Bocca and (51/2 M.) Pegomtts (hotels omnibus), is the large village of ^»rt-
btau^ whence the picturesque Oorges de la Siagne may be visited.
From Cannes to Gbasse. — Bailwat, I2V2 M., in 40 min. (fares
3fr. 25, 1 fr. 60 c., 1 fr.)i IOV2 M. by road, carriage (there and back 18 fr.,
for 1-3 pers.) in 21/3 hrs. ,
The line runs via (P/4 M.) I^a Bocca (p. 461) and four other
stations.
12^/2 Oraste. — The p. L. M. StaHon is about 13/4 M. from the town
(omnibus 90 c.) ; short-cuts for pedestrians. The Oare du Sud (pp. 459, 486 \
buffet) is halfway up, not far from the Place Neuve.
Hottla. Gbaiid-H6tbl, Avenue Victoria, B. 5-10, B. 2, dej. 4, D. 5 fr. —
Victoria, Boul. du Biou-Blanquet, pens. 8-13 fr. ; db i«a Posts et MuaAouit
DBS Dbux-Hokdbs , both in the Boul. du Jeu-de-Ballon ; Gokdrak bt du
CoMMBRCB, Place Neuve. — Cafi Cagino^ with restauirant (dej. 3, D. Sl/sfr.,
incl. wine) , above the Gours. — Eng. Ch. Service in winter.
Grasse (1066 ft.), a town of 15,000 inhab., occupies a pictur-
esque site. on the slope of the Rocavignon^ open on the S. and
sheltered from cold winds, so that it has become a winter ^ resort
for itiTalids unable to remain near the sea. T^e mild climate en-
476 V, Route 75. NIOE.
courages a luxuriant soutkeril vegetatiou, and Grasse is the chief
centre in Provence, for the manufacture of perfumes and esseitces
(camp, below).
The road ascending from the station passes t9 the left of the
long Place Neuve (with the post -office), and joins the Boul. Fra-
gonard, on the right of which is a Public Oarden with a hu$t of the
painter Fragonard (lt3!^- 1806), a native of Grasse. Farther up is
the Cours (fine view) , which is joined by the road from Cannes.
The Parish Church (12-13th cent.) has an Assumption by Subleyras.
Beside it is the Hotel de Ville . the former bishops' palace, with a
mediaeval tower. At one end of the Boul. du Jeu -de -Ballon is
a remarkable well , known as La Foux, Farther down in the Rue
des Cordeliers, in a former convent, is the Parfumerie Bruno-Court,
to which visitors ar^e admitted.
An idea of the imporiance of tt^e perfume -manufapiur« at Grasse
may be gleaned from the fact that about 6O,O0O acres are' devoted to the
cultivation of flowers^ yielding annually over 3^200,000 lbs. of roses and
4^000^000 lbs. of orange-flowers. No less than 35,000 lbs. of roses are re-
quired to produce a single litre of essence, whi/sh is sold for 2000-2500 fr.
Railway to Meyrarguei and Drttguigrwu , see jP. 459 \ railway to Ifice
and excursion to the Oorges du Loup^ see pp. 486, 4S6.
About 71/3 M. to the N.W., on the road to Digne, is St. Vallier'>d«-Tki«7
(2360 ft. < BH. du Nord; H6i. d« PAcacia)\ flnely situated, with pleasant en-
virons, in the neighbourhood are some Celtic fortifications of enormous
blocks of stone, a natural bridge called Ponadieu (3 M . to the W.), etc. —
About 9 M. to the W. of Grasse and abdut 5 M. to the d. W. of Si.
Vailier is Bt* (Maaixe (U9iH Haybamd), a quaint village situated above
the romantic gorge of the Siagne, In the neighbourhood are several
dolmens and stalactite grottoes, the source of the SicignoU^ and remains
of the Roman aqueduct which conducted its waters to Fr^jus (p. 469). —
About 11 M. to the 1^. of St. Vailier lies Thorene (3820 ft. ; Gr. H&t. CUtna-
UHqve^ 9-15 f^. ; Or. H6t. d« Thorene^ 8-Ufr.; H6t. de TfiortnCy 6-10 fr.),
a summer-resort (omn. from Grasse in summer). A fine forest of firs and
several ruined chateaux are in the neighbourhood. Excursions may be
made hence to (2hr8.) Caussols^ a village in a limestone district, where
the streams lose themselves in chasms ; and to (4 fars.) the top of the Cheiron
(5830 ft.; extensive view), to the N. of which stretches a vast forest.
73. Nice and its Environs.
Railway Stations. 1. Grande Gare (PI. C, 2), on the main line from
Marseilles to Ventimiglia; 2. Gare de Riqnier {^l. H, 2), a suburban station
on the same line; 3. Gare du 9ud(V\. D,l), for the lines to.Otaaae and Pnget-
Th^niers. — Gabt^ see p. 478; omn. 30 c, trunk 25e., hand-bag, etc., 10 e.
Hotels. In the Pmmenade des Angiaia (PI. A-D, 5, 4): *HdTBL dbs
Amolais, de Luxbmbouko, db la M^ditbbbak^e, WBsmivsTBB, Wbbt-Eiid,
RoTAL St. PiTBBSBODBo, all flrst-class and expensive: R. 6-13, B. U/r3,
d^j. 4-5, D. 6-7, pens. 12-90 fr. — In the same Promenade, Nos. 23 and 77 :
Pbks. Rivoir; Pbns. Abolaisb.
By the JardU^ Public (PI. D, E, 4): •Gbamdb Bhbtaobb, R. 6-14, B. 2,
d4j. 4, D. 6, pens. 14-20, omn. 2 fr. ; ^AbaI/BTBBbb. R^ from 4, D. 6,
pens. 12-25 fr. ^ ♦db Frakcb, R. from 5, pens, from 12V> ff .
In the Avenue Filix Faure (PI, E, F, 4, 3) : Cosmopolitam Hotbl; Hot.
DB la Paix, R. from 5, pens, from 16 fr. ; <}BAVD-HdTBL, R. firom 41/j, pens,
from 14 fr. — Place Mauina (PI. E, 4): Wt. du Hblobb^ hotel meuble.
S^^Mzunc e .Yallon. Cibscui
LAsi/e Evangeliqne
2. . S^JPieiTe
3. " Roihsduld.
4-. I Wa AugiisUi
P ^:B(nufut. de France
" I ^^ibHatheque
l.^lusee Municipal
^Bjtretiu centr.deB)sfe^T r.3
^.raser'iies Y.A. G.3
^CnrJp rathoUque P.G.2
T A
E.2
A.5
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i:.2
Il.C«7rA» Massena .
12. ,. delaJtediUmuiee .\i.\.
13. . FliWiarmonitiue^ E.4.
Sglises:
U.SfAi/aiLvtzji ¥.3.
^.CathMrdte(S¥JteparaieJ P.4.
V&.St FrttncoL's-df -Faille E.*.
n . ^^ Jacqufis (Gesvbt Y A.
18 . .y? Jat/i -BaptistP r -3 .
}Q.yoti-e Lame D.2.
20.2<7^ue diLPortiSnnuCanc.^
23 . Oixttaii-e des OhUxtaCSStaoKef
22. , d^Ues^rioCSbd: ^
2XTernple AUanand
24 , Amdricain.
25. . Anglais
26. , du,Chriatfantfl
27. Ecossms
28. , Israitiie- .
29 Aessr
D4
B
prmip i>aj^^eiir^^!o5!sTilTp3?
C
J
D
^
Hifteli. NICB. F. Brnte 73. 4T7
In th« Squart Gritnaldi (PL D, 4)^ Hot. Orimaldi, B. 4-8, pens. 10-13 fr. —
In the Rue de France (Pi. A-D,5,4): Bbi^obatia Hotbl, B. 3-10, B. U/g,
dej. 3, D,4, omn. IVif'-i HdT.-PBDs. Tarsi4.i, B. from 31/2^ ^ ^/9« P^nA-
from 7 fr. ; Cbatbau des Baumettbs, B. 8-8, pens. 10-16 fr. — In the Quai
dv Midi (PI. B, F, 4) : •Bbau-Bivaob, B. from 4, D. 5, pens, from 11 fr. \ dks
Golokjbs, pens. 7 fr. — In the Rue des Poncfiettet (PI. F, 4): *HdT. dbs
PRivcBa, well situated on the shore, B. from 31 /g, B. IVs^ dej. 3i/s, D. 6 fr. \
H5t.-Pe»8. Scissb, B. from ^/a, D. 4^/0 fr. — In the Rue du Palais (PL £, 4) ;
Hot. i>9» Etranobss, B. from 4, d^. o, D. 4 fr.
In the Boulevard Carabacel (PLF,3): H.Bristol; *Hot. db Kicb, B.
from 5, B. I3/4, d^). 4, D. 6, pens. 16-90 fr. ; db Paris, B. 4-13, d^j. 4, D. 5,
pens. 10-15 fr. — In the Avenue disambrois (PL E, 8): Hot. Carabacbl. —
Boulevard Dubouchetge (PI. T&^ 2^ 3): Hot. duParc^ d'Albiov, R. 3-6, pens.
7-14 fr. ; DO Pavillok & DBS Emperburs. — In the Avenue Beaulieu (PL D, £, 3) :
Hot. db SuAdb, B. dv2~7, pens. 9-16 fr. ^ Brvoi^re; Jullibk, B. from 6,
pens, from 14 fr. ; db Hollar db, B. from 31/21 pens. 10-15 fr. — In the
Avenue de la Gore (PL D, £, 3, 3) : Uvivbrs, at the eorner of the Bue
Qarnier, commercial v Gbvtral, B. from 3 fr. ; db la BioBvcB^ National,
near the station, dej. 3, D. 4 fr. : Gr. Hot. Modbrke. — In the Rue Pasto-
reUi (PLE, F, 3, 3): Bbau-Sbjour, B. 3, D.3; pens. fromSfr.; HdT. des
N^eooiAKTs, D'HBLviTiB, both seeond-elasa — In the Rue Blacas (PL E, 3) :
H6t. Moktbsquibv. — In the Rue Alberti (PL E, 3): HdT. d'Europb.
In the. Boulevard Victor Hugo (PL C, D, 3): •Ilbs BRiTAKDiguss, B.
&om6, B. 11/2, d^j. 4, D. 6. pens. 13-36 fr.; *MirR0P0LB bt Paradis,
with garden, B. &om 48/4, B. U/s, d^j. 4, t>. 6, pens, from 10 fr. ; Qubex's
Hotbl; Gr. Hot. du Bhik; Bbinb Victoria; du Louvre, B. from 5, pens.
13-18 fr. ; •Gr. Hot. dbs Palmibrs, B. from 31/3, B. ll/j, dej. 3Va, D. 5 fr. -,
Splbvdidb-Hotbl, B. fro m4, pens, from 10 fr. ; *H6t. dbs Orakqbrs. — In
the Rue JSmanuel (PL D, 3): HdT.-PBMs. Victor Hugo, a large new house.
— In the Rue Alphonte Karr (PL D, 3) : •Palace Hotel, B. from 4, B. liA,
dej. 4, D. 5, pens. 11-30 fr. — In the Rue de la Paix (PL C, D, 3, 3): Hot.
St. George; •Gallia bt M omopolb , B. from 3. pens, from 9 fr. — In the
ifaitf Oolto (PL G, D, 8): HdT. Lomocb-amp ; Hot.-Pbvs. Gotta. — In the
Rue Rottini (PL 6, D, 3): *HdT.-P»N0. Intbrhaviovalb, pens. 8-14 fr. ; Hot.
Hbrmitaob ft Emprbss ; db GbmAvb bt Gown«B»TAL. — In the Avenue Thiers
(near the Grande Gare; P1.G,9): GbcIl Hotel, R. 4-13, D. 5, pens, from
10 fr. ; Tbrmivus ; d*Iktbrlakbx bt db Provbkcb ; *db Bbrkb, R. from 3,
B. H/a, dtfj. 21/2, D. 3Vai pens. 8-11 fr. — In the Avenue Durante (PL D, 3, 3) :
•H6t. du Midi, 8fr. ; Bichb-Momt. ■— In the Rue de Belgique; Gr. Hot.
dbl* Avenue, Hot. db la Garb, St. Louis, at these pens, from 7 fr. — In
the Rue Paganini: Dbux-Mondbs (meubltf). — Beyond the Raihoay Statfon:
HdT. WiUDSOR, Ave. Th^r^sa, B. 3-7, pens. 8-16 fr. ; Edbv Hotel, at the
eomer of the BouL Gambetta and BouL Joseph Gamier (PL G, 1); Hot.
Albzabdra., BouL Gambetta.
Outside the Town. To the V. , at Cimieg: •Bxcblsior Hotel Bboina,
a large and luxurious eatablishaient, at the end of the BouL de Gimiez
(p. m)^ B. from 8, D. 7, pens, from 33 fr. ; •Bivibra Palaob, about halfway
alOBg the bovlevard, B. from 10, D. 7 fr. ; opposite, •Gr. HdT. Albambra,
new, B. from 8, pens, from 16 fr. ; Hot. db Cimibs, frequented by the
English, B. 7-13, pens. 13-18 fr. ^ To the W., at the Pare Jmpirial: Gr.
Hot. Imperial, B.>from 10, board 14 fr. ; Savot Hotbu, near the Zoological
Garden; BBLvAsifiB, BouL du Gaarewitch, with hydropathic, B. from 5,
Sens, from 10 fr. — To the S.E., at Moniboron: •Mobtborok Palaob, BouL
arnot (PLH,4), w«U situ&ted, B. from 5. d6S. 4, D. 6, pens, frota 13 fr. —
To the If .W., at St. BartMlemy (p. 483): H^ot. St. BARTHisLBMY, on a hill, B.
4-8, pens. 8 13 fr. (free omnibus to the (own).
Most of the hotels are closed from, the beginning of summer till the end
of Sept. or October. The Hotels de ruaivers, des Etrangers, des N<^gociants,
Terminua, National, de« Il^es Brltanniques , de Giaiiez, des Beaiunettes,
Beau-BiTage, St. Louis, and de la Gare are open the whole year. -^ In
tbe seaaen it is 'advisable to <»der rooms in advance.
Apaftmenta. Houses and apartments to .let , indicated by tickets, are
easily founilf best .with the aid of a house-agent. A doctor should b«
478 y. ttoute 73.
NIG£).
l^ramtoayt.
consulted as to situation, ete. A single visitor may proeure 1-2 farnislied
rooms for the winter for 350-700 fr.; suites of apartments are let for
1000-5000 fr. , villas for 3000-35,000 fr. The contract (on stamped paper)
should specify the condition of furniture, linen, wall-papers, etc., as dis-
putes are apt to arise on the termination of the lease. Landlords some-
times make exorbitant demands on the death of one of their guests, in
which cas« the aid of the authorities should be invoked. Nice is reputed
an expensive place, but it is possible to live here, as in other large towns,
more cheaply than at Cannes or Mentone. The pensions at a distance
from the aea, but in well-sheltered spots, are comparatively moderate. —
House Agents: Oh. Jottgla^ Rue Gioflredo OS*, DalgomUe^ Rue Croix -de-
Marbre 2.
Beitauranta. *Re»taurani Fran^ais^ Promenade des Anglais, adjoining
the Hot, de Luxembourg; •Zo«<i<m House^ Place du Jardi^-Public iO*, *Bdder-
Armenonville^ Place Massdna 4, three first-class establishments, with high
charges i Ca/^ de la R^genee, Ave. de la Gare 8^ Be$t. de la JeUe- Promenade
(p. 479). Less expensive : *Re»t. Reynaud et des OourmeU^ Rett. GousHt, Place
Massena; *Rest. Jntemaiional^ National (well spoken oOi Central (del. 3,
D. 31/2 fr.), all in the Avenue de la Gare; Rest, des Jardins^ Ave. Massena-,
Or. Bar Fran^ais, Ave. de la Qare 6-, Rest, de la Poste^ Rue de PHotel-ded-
Postes 21; Rest. LyonnaU., Rue Biscarra 11. — On the Boulevard de l*Im-
p^ratrice de Russie, to the E., *Resi. de la RSserve (Pl, H, 6).
Caf4a. *Caf^ de la Rigenee^ see above; *Grand Caft Olaoier^ on the
groundfloor of the Casino (p. 481); Cafi Monnoty Place Massena; 0. de
V Avenue^ Ave. de la Gare 49. — Braasariei : *Pa<dkla, Place du Jardin-Public,
adjacent to the Hot. d*Angleterre (also wine and oysters); *Rtg%na Taveme
(Gr. Bar Pran^ais, see above); ^Brassvrie Royale^ Vice- f^veme^ Tav. Qoihique^
Tav. Steinho/t all in the Ave. de la Oare; Oambrinus^ Rue Pastorelli 53. —
Confectioners. Ruinpelmayery Boul. Victor Hugo 26, Arst-class ; /Va, Vogade^
Place Massena; Portat, Ave. de la Gare 4; WaWar A Milller^ Rue de
la Prefecture 7.
Cabs (Voitures de
Place)..
Per drive within the
town-limits, mark-
ed by posts . .
Per drive within the
banlieue . . . .
Per hour, in the
town
Per hour, outside
the town . , .
One-horse,
with 3 seats.
One-horse.
Coupe.
day
night
day
night
1-
1.50
1.25
i.75
2-
2.50
2.50
3-
3.50
3-
3-
3.50
3.50
4-
4-
4.50
One-horse.
Landau.
day
night
1.50
2.75
3-
3.50
3.50
4-
—
—
Twt>-borte,
3 or 4 seats.
day
night
3-
3-
4-
6-
5-
6-
6-
7-
For drives outside the town
charges for a number of special
a bargain should always be made; the
drives are regulated by tariff (4-36 fr.
aeeording to distance and class of vehicle). — Night is reckoned in wiater
from 7 p. m. (in summer from 10 p. m.) to 7 a. m. After the first hour, each
1/4 hr. is charged pro rati. A charge of 35*50 e. is mad« for bringing the cab
from the stand to the house. Small articles of luggage free; trunk 35 e. —
The taoriff is not eompulsory during the Carnival and the Baiees (special bar-
gain necessary).
Eleetrie Tramways (fare iO c. within the town ; 30 o. and upwards out-
side the town). I. From the Place Massina (PI. B, 4) to the Poat Ma^mam
(PI. A, 5) and La Calif ornie; to the Boul. Gambetta (PI. 0,3, 3), etc., vil
the Rne de la Paix ; to the Gendarmerie via the Plaee d'Armes (Pl. 0, 1).
— II. From the flue de France (PL B, 4) (0 the Plaee BiatH^x {Gare dm Sud:
Pi. G,D, 1) vi& the Boul. Gambetto. — III. From the Grande Gare (Ft. C,
D, 3) to the Place Ritto (Pl. G, 1) ; to the Boul. du Cgariieiteh (PI. B, 8) and
St. Maurice^ see below. — IV. From the Barbour (PL G, H, 4) to the PImee
Massina (Pl. E, 4) via the Boul. MaeMabon; to the Grande Gan^ and
thence to the Boul. du Crariwiich (Pl. B, 3) or to 8t, Maurice and the
CaHnoa. NICE. K R(mte 73, 479
Obaeur (every Va.hr.)^ to the Oare de Riquier (PI. H. 3) and tbe Rut
Victor. — V. From the Avenue de la Oare (Rue de 1 Hdtel-des-Postes ;
PI. E, 3) to (Hmiez (p. 483; every l/a hr.). - VI. From the Place Mauina
via the Rue Gioffredo to the Harbour and the Place Salutzo (PI. H, 3).
Omnibuses run to various points from the Avenue F^lix Faure 16,
tlie Boul. MaeHahon, the Roul. du Pont-Vieux, the Plaee St. Francois, and
tlie Pont Garibaldi. — Brake from CooVs Agency (Ave. Mass^na 16) to
Monte Carlo (p. 490) and Mentone (p. 493), going by the Grande Corniche
and returning by the eoast (fares 8 and 10 fr. \ seats should be booked
in advance). Similar services are carried on by the agencies of the Nice
ExcurtUme (Plaee Massena) and Fuleonia (Boul. du Pont-Vieux 6; fare 6 fr.) ;
and many other excursions are arranged by all these agencies.
Staamboats to Goreica, see p. 497.
Pott OfftM, Plaee de la Llberti^ (P1.8;F.,3), open from 7 (in winter
3) a. m. to 9 p. m. (til) 4 p. m. on l^un. and holidays). Branch - offices :
Place Grimaldi 3, Place Garibaldi 3, Avenue de la Gare 66. — Telegraph
Ofltoea (always open) at these addresses and at the railway-station.
Pfayaiciaaa. Enelish: Dr. Sturge, Boul. Dubouehage 29-, Dr. Brandt,
Boul. Victor Hugo !^; Dr. Gilehrisi, Boul. Victor Hugo 39. American: Dr.
Linny Avenue Massena 16. German : Dr. ZUrcher, Rue Hass^na 30. — Den-
tists t Wittiam»{Am&r.)., Promenade des Anglais 39; Oareia (Amer.), Fritbie
(Amer.), Preierre^ all in the Plaee Massena. — Ghemists: NiehdU A Pa*siron,
Quai Massena; Grande Pharmacie, Avenue de la Gare 35; Pharm. Sue,
same street., 18; Ferand (late Wateon A C».), same -street, 46; Leoneiniy
Place St. Etienne 1 ; Liotard, Rue de )a France 3. — Mineral Waters: Cland
et MHivei^, Rue Massena 36.
British Consul : Sir James Charles Harris., Place Bellevue 4. — Amtrican
Consul: H. S. vem Buren^ Promenade des Anglais 15.
Touzist Agsneies: Th. diok A Smi., Avenue Mass^^na 16; H. Oate A Sons,
Ave. des Phoeeens 2; Nantht Ave. Felix Faure 10.
Bankers. Oridit Lyonnais (PI. 44; E, 3), Avenue de la Gare 15 (p. 481) ;
Banque de France (PI. 5;E, 4), Quai du Midi 101; Caisse de Gridiiy Rue
Gttbernatis 1; Soeiiti 0Sn4rale, Rue Gioffredo 64; Qomptoir National d^Es-
comie^ Ave. de la Gare 3.
Baths. Warm Baths : Bains des OalerieSy Rue Adelaide 4 (U/s'S^/a fr) >
Bains Polythermes, Rue St. Fran(;ois-de-Paule 8; Bains Parisiens, Avenue de
la Gare 30; Bains des Platanes, Place de la Libert^ 2; Bains Macaraniy
Rue Macarani5; ^atf»« Massina., Rue Massena 1. Turkish Baths: Himvmam
de Nice^ Rue de la Buffa 4. — Sea Baths opposite the Promenade des
Anglais (1 fr.) and on the Boulevard de Tlmperatrice de Rus^ie (PI. H, 5).
Booksellers. iSalignani, Avenue Massena 48; Hubert., Plac6 du Jardin
Public 4; Visconiiy Rue Gioffredo 63, large reading-room with newspapers of
every country and lending-library; Qross^ Rue Maoarani 3 (lending-library,
photographs, etc.); Librairie Ifouvelley Ave. Felix Faure 50 ; Boudetj Ardoin^
Ave. de la Gare 38 and 44. — The Mee Library, in the building of the Credit
Lyonnais (p. 481), contains about 4000 English books.
OasinoB. Casino Municipal (Pi. E,4), Plaee Massena (seep. 481); adm.
3fr., subscription for a month 30, for three months 45, for the season
60 fr. ; family-tickets at reduced rates^ Theatre -tickets include admission
to the casino. — Casino de la Jet^e- Promenade (Pi. D, 4; p. 481); adm., in-
cluding concert and music hall, 3 fr., less for subscribers. — Clubs* Cercle
de la Miditerran4e, Promenade des Anglais 3; Cei^cle PhUharmonique, Quai
du Midi 5; Qrand-Cercle Massina, in the Gasino Municipal ; Cercle de V Union,
Place Massena 8. — Theatres. ThHtre de VOpira (PI. 39; E, 4), Rue St.
Francois-de-Paule (fauteuils 6-8, stalles d^orchestre 4, parterre numerot^
21/3 fr.); TMdtre du Casino (see above); Kursaal-Thidtre, Rue St. Michel
3 (1/8-3 fr.); TMdtre Risso (PI. 36; G, 3), Boul. Risso (Italian). — Circus,
Rue Pastorelli (PI. E, 3; seats V4-^ fr)-
The Gatnival is usually celebrated at Nice with great energy and
display, the observances including the throwing of ^Confetti*, the ''Battle
of Flowers' on the Promenade des Anglais , the carrying of 'Moceoletti'
(smalt lighted candles, which the revellers try to extinguish), and *Veglionl\
or masked balls, at the Th^&tre Municipal. — Horse Baoos are held in
480 V. Rmte 73. NICE: aimait,
Jan. ,, at the raeeeoure^e on the bank of the Var. — B«gattas are held
in March or April.
Miiaio daily, except Hon., in the Jardin Public (p. 481), 2.90-4 p. m.
Xngliah Churches in the Rue de France (PI. 25; B, 4), and at Gara-
bacel, in the Ave. l?"otre-Dame (PI. 26; E, 2). — American Church (PI. 24;
D, 3), Boul. Victor Hugo 21. — Scottish Church (PI. 27; D, 3), Kue Al-
phonse Earr. — Waldensian (French Protestanf) Churchy Bue Gioffredo 50;
French Baptist Church, Rue Grimaldi 1 (PI. D, 3).— German Protestant Church
(PI, 23; D, 3), Rue d'AugsbOurg.
Climate. The bay of Nice is. sheltered from the K., N.E., and K.W.
winds by the lower terraces of the Maritime Alps (culminating in Momt
Chauve, Ital. MonU Calvoy 2780 ft.), a natural barrier to which it owes
its Air-famed mildness of climate. The mean winter temperature is K>-15°
Fahv. higher than that of Paris, summer temperature 5^10° lower. Frost
is rare. The neighbourhood of the b'road and stony channel of the Paillon
is apt to be rather draughty. The coast is somewhat exposed to the E. and
W. winds. In March and April the E. wind not unfrequently prevails, and
is usually most trying to delicate persons about midday, when the clouds of
dust it raises in the Promenade des Angl&is have often given rise to com-
plaints. Owing, however, to the depth of the basin in which Kiee is en-
sconced, it is easy to find inland quarters beyond reach of these drawbacks.
The most sheltered situations are; the Boulevard Garabacel and the Qnar-
tiers Brancolar and Gimiez,.ln the last of which the air is generally pure
and free, from dust. There are. three distinct elimiitie aones: the eoast,
the plain, and the hills. Sunset is a criiie»l period. The moment the sun
disappears, the atmosphere beeomes damp and chilly, but this moisture
lasts 1-2 hours only. The rainy season begins early in October and lasts
about a month. The drv, warm, and at the same time braoing climate of
Nice is specially benenoial for chronic invalids, if free from fever and
paSn, for convalescents, and for elderly people, while the town affords
greater comfort and variety than any other place on the Riviera. — &ood
drinking-water is supplied by the water-works. — Reports of the obser-
vations made at the Meteorological Station, founded in 1877, are posted up
on the band-kiosque in the Jardin Public.
Nice, Ital. Nizza, is the capital (98,900 inhab.) of the French
department of the Alpe^ Maritimea and the seat of a bishop, in
winter it is the rendezvous of invalids and others from all parts of
Europe, who seek refuge here from wet and cold. The season begins
with the races (see «bove) early in January, and closes with a great
regatta at the beginning of April ; but Tisitors abound from October
until the end of May. In summer the place is deserted , though its
temperature is then lower than that of Paris.
Nice, the Nicaea (Greek Nihaia) of the ancients, was founded by the Pfao-
esean inhabitants of Marseilles in the 4th eent. B.G., to commemorate a vic-
tory gained over the Ligurians. It prospered greatly at first, but under the
Romans it was supplanted by Cimiez ; and later it suffered nraeb ttam the
Goths,- from the Saracens, and in the wars and rivalries of the various
rulers of Provence and 17. Italy. Down to 1388 it belbnged mainly to the
County of Provence , then to the Dukes of Savoy ; in 1793 it was Oeeu-
pied by the French, in 1814 restored to Sardinia, and in 1860 annexed to
France together with Savoy. Kice was the birthplaee of the French Mar-
shal Mass^na (1768-1817) and of Giuseppe Garibaldi (1807-89).
Nice is superbly situated on the broad Bait des An^es, which
opens towards the S. , at the mouth of the insignificant Paglione or
Paillon. The broad and stb^y bed of the stream, flanked with hand-
some quays, bisects the*town. On the left bank is. the Old Town,
with its. narrow lanes, which have- been replaced by better streets
Pr<ymmade des Anglais, NICE. V. Route 73. 461
near the shore. It is dominated by the castle-hill (p. 482), beyond
which lies the harbour (p. 482). On the right bank is the Stbangebs'
Qttabteb, which is already much larger than the old town.
From the Principal Station (PL 0, D, 2), in front of which ex-
tends the Avenue Thiers, set with a beautiful row of eucalypti, we
descend to the town by the handsome Aven/tte de la Oare (PL D,
E, 2, 3). To the right is the modern Gothic church of Notre-Dame
(PL 19; D, 2), built by Ohas. Lenormand. In the Rue Notre-Dame,
which diverges to the left^ is the new Mnsie Mnnicipal (PL 7 ; % 2),
containing a collection of paintings , mainly by modern French ar-
tists, and also sculptures, engravings, objects of natural history, etc.
The Avenue de la Gare farther on intersects another of the chief
arteries of the new town , formed by the Boulevard Victor Hugo
(right) and the Boulevard Duhouchage (left), the latter leading to
the Boul. Carabacel (p. 480). — To the right, farther on,Js the hand-
some building of the CrMt Lyonnais (p. 479), which also contains
a well-supplied reading-room. Exhibitions of paintings are usually
held here in Feb. and March (open daily, 9.30-4). At the end of
the Avenue de la Gare is the Ftace Massdna, the centre of the Stran-
gers' Quarter; To the right diverges here the Rue Mass^na, whitsh
is continued by the long Rue de France. A Marble Cross, at the
beginning of the street last named , commemorates the meeting of
Charles V. and Francis I. in 1538, effected by Pope Paul III. It has
given its name (Croix de Marbre) to this quarter of the town.
To the E. of the Place Mass^na, built over the Palllon , stands
the Catiiio Mimioipal (PL E,4), with a winter-garden, a theatre, gam-
ing-rooms, a caf^-restaurant, etc. — Behind the Casino, and also
built over thePaillon, is the Sqcabe Mass^na (PL E, F, 4), em-
bellished with a Statue of MassivM, in bronze, by Carrier-Belleuse
(1869), and bounded on the N. by the handsome BovZevatd Fdlix
Faure, which extends along the right bank of the Paillon to the Pont
Garibaldi. In the Square Garibaldi (PL G, 3), on the left bank, rises
a large monument to Oaribaldi (p. 480), by Etex and Deloye (1891).
The Jardin Fnblio (PLD,E,4), to the right between the Place
Mass^na and the sea, at and over the mouth of the Paillon, is pret-
tily laid out, with palms, pepper-trees, aloes, laurels, and myrtles
(music , see p. 480). Like the Promenade des Anglais , it forms
one of the gathering - places of visitors to Nice. The Monument
du Centenaire (PL P,4), by Febvre and AUar, was erected in 1896
to commemorate the first union of Nice with France (1792).
The ^Promenade des Anglais (PL A-D, 4, 5), originally con-
structed by the English in 1^2-24, for the sake of furnishing work
to the unemployed , and since extended , stretches to the W. along
the coast. It is shaded by palms and other trees and bordered with
palatial hotels and villas. At the beginning of it the Jeit^b-Pbo-
MSNABE (Pi. D, 4), a structure of glass and iYon forming a kind of
casino (adm., see p. 479), projects into the sea. Opposite Is the
Baedeker. Southern France. 4th Edit. 31
482 V, Route 73. NICE. Castle HUl.
handsome building of the Cercle de la Jdediterra/net (p. 479). The
Promenade des Anglais is prolonged beyond the brook Magnan
(PI. A, 5) to La Calif ornUf a point of view 2 V2 M. distant. Those who
do not care to walk may use the tramway in the parallel Rue de France.
The Qnai du Midi (PI. E, F, 4) forms the prolongation of the
Promenade des Anglais towards the E., on the side of the Old Town
(p. 480). It affords a good view of the Castle Hill, with its cascade
(see below).
Parallel with this quay runs the Rub St. Fbancois-de-Paule,
one of the chief thoroughfares of the Old Town. In it, to the left,
is the Hdttl de Ville (PL 34) , with a marble group of Orestes and
Minerva , by Hugolin, in the court. Farther on is the Church of
St, Francois - de - PatUe (PL 16), dating from the 18th century.
The Th^dtu Municipal, or Opera (PL 39), to the right, is a hand*
some edifice re -erected after the disastrous fire of 1881. Still
farther on, also to the right, is the Public Library (PL 6), with
90,000 printed vols, and 126 MSS. (open daily, 9-4; in summer, 9-12
and 2-5.30). It also contains a few Roman antiquities.
The Rue St. Frangois-de-Paule is continued by the Coubs Sa-
LEYA (PL F, 4) , where an interesting market is held during the
season. To the right extend the so-called Terraces, on the top of
a double row of low houses. To the left are the Prefecture (PL 3^;
1611-13) and the Palais de Justice (PL 33).
To the S.E. of the town rises the Ch&tean, or Castle HUl (PL F,
G, 4; 320 ft.), which may be ascended from the N., E., or S. W. side
in 20 min.; the S.W. approach is by a flight of 198 steps (Mont^e
Lesage) from the Rue des Ponchettes. The hill was formerly crowned
with a castle destroyed by the Duke of Berwick in 1706. Almost
the only relic now standing is the Tour Bellanda (now private
property). At the top of the hill is an artificial Waterfall, supplied
by the city-reservoir and the Canal de la V^subie.
The plateau has been transformed into a promenade, which commands
an admirable •View in every direction : S., the mediterranean ^ W., the coast,
the promontory of Antibes, the lies de Lerins, the mouth of the Var,
and "Siet at our feet; K., the yalley of the Paillon, the large Excelsior
Reglna Hotel, the monasteries of Gimiez and 8t. Pons, the distant castle
of 8t. Andre, Hont Ghauve, the Falicon, and the Alps; £., the ancient
Fort Montalban, and the promontory of Montboron (p. 484). The 8. slope
of the castle-hill, which descends precipitously to the sea, is called the
Bquba Capeu (^hat-robber% owing to the sudden gusts).
Among the monuments In the old Cemetery, on the N. side of
the castle-hill, are a pyramid to the memory of Gambetta (1838-82).
who was temporarily buried here , and a monument to the victims
of the fire at the Theatre Municipal in 1881.
On the £. side of the castle-hill lies the Harbour (PL G, H,4,5),
called Port Lympia from an excellent spring (limpida) near the £.
pier. The Place Bellevue, at the foot of the hill, was embellished
in 1827 with a marble Statue of Charles Felix, King of Sardinia,
CimUi, NICE. V. Routt 73. 483
founder of the harbour. ~ In the Place Cassini, to the N. of the
harbour, are the Eglise du Port, in a classic style, and a bronze
bust of Pretident Camot, by Oonvers (1896).
Environs of Nice.
H. Side. — To the N. of Nice, on a fertile hill, lies Cimiez, Ital.
Cimella (Hotels, etc., see p. 477), which is reached by the Boul. de
Gimiez (PI. E, 1 ; electric tramway No V, see p. 479). Cimiez occu-
pies the site of the Roman town of Cemenelum, of which part of an
Amphitheatre^ a quadrangular structure called a Temple of Apollo,
and traces of baths and other buildings have been discovered. The
first street to the right beyond the amphitheatre leads to the Capuchin
Monastery of Cimiez, erected in 1640 on the foundations of a so-
called temple of Diana. Ladies are not admitted, except to the
chapel, which contains two paintings by Lodovico and Antonio Brea
of Nice (ca. 1500). ^ The second street to the right leads to a small
Zoolo^cal Garden, on the £. slope of the hill (adm. 1 fr.; caf^-
restaurant). The tramway (p. 479) runs to this point.
A good road (electric tramway No 1, see p. 478) ascends on the
right bank of the Paillon to the (40 min.) monastery of St. Pons,
founded in 775 on the spot where St. Pontius, a Roman senator,
suffered martyrdom in 261. It was destroyed by the Saracens in 970
and rebuilt in 999. Fine view outside the monastery (ladies not ad-
mitted to the interior). — About Va hr. from St. Pons, in the valley
of the Oarbe or Riousec, is the chateau of St. Andr6 (196 ft.; Inn,
closed in summer), built in 1687, now a school, whence an avenue
of eucalypti leads to (V4hr.) the small Grot/e de St. Aridrf'(adm. 50 c).
From the Grotto we may proceed to (1 hr.) the village of Falicon
(1005 ft.; Cafe Tordo)^ near which is the Grotte des Chauves-Souris,
with beautiful stalactites.
Farther up the valley of St. Andr^, 7 M. from Nice, lies
Tonrette, Ital. Torretta (inn), a carious specimen of the ancient
fortified villages of the district (view).
About 4 M. to the N.E. of Torretta is Ch&teannenf (2295 ft.),
which is said to have been built by the inhabitants of Nice as a
refuge during the invasion of the barbarians, but is now deserted
owing to the want of water. This is another splendid point of view.
Adjacent are two fine stalactite grottoes. The village of Chdteau-
neuf lies V4 ^''« below, about 3 M. from Contes (p. 488) , whence a
tramway plies to Nice.
The return from Falieon (see above) may be made by a shorter and
less attractive road via a Chapel of St. Sihastien^ La Ray^ and St. Maurice
(tramway to Nice).
H.W. and W. Sides. — To the N. W. of Nice is the (4 M. ; tramway
No IV, see p. 478) Vallon Obtcnr, a ravine about 500 yds. long
reached via St. J3ar<^e7e?»i/ (hotel, p. 477). — Another pleasant walk
31 •
484 V, Route 7J. NICE. Montbaran,
may be taken in the Valley of the Xagnan (p. 482), through which
a road ascends to (2 M.) the chnrch of La Mcuieleint (stat. , p. 485).
About Vt ^' fftfther up is the romantic ravine of the PuiU €tux
EtoUes, 115 ft. in depth (accessible to sure-footed walkers only).
A fine excursion may be made to the Mouth oftheVar (p. 462),
either by railway to Le Var (p. 462) and thence by tramway, or by
using the tramway to La Calif ornie (p. 482), which is 1 M. from
the station of Le Var and l^g M. from the former Jardln d'Ac-
climatation (restaurant) and the Racecourse (Champ de Covraes),
situated to the right and left of the railway.
E. and N.E. Bidet. — To the £. of Nice stretches a chain of
heights , easily accessible and commanding beautiful views. The
nearest to the sea is the *]Iontboron (600 ft. ; l^/^ hr.), the fortified
promontory separating Nice from Villefranche. On its slope runs
the beautiful road (the first part named Boul. Camot; PI. H, 4) to
(3 M.) Villefranche (p. 462; tramway from the harbour, 70 or 45 c.;
boat 10 fr.), with the conspicuous ChcUeau de Montboron (formerly
the Villa Smith) , the residence of Count Gurowski (fine view). To
the left ascends the Route Forestiere de Montboron, which traverses
the ridge of the Montboron , skirts the Montalbaii (695 ft.), with
fortifications of the 16th cent., and joins the old Vill^anche road.
If we follow the Villefranche road for H/s M. more, a road on the
right, crossing the railway by a stone bridge, will lead us to (8/4 M.)
BeauUeu (p. 463). Thence to St. Jean, see p. 463.
3 The Vinaigrier (1210 ft.), so called, it is said, from the sour wine
it produces, is ascended by the old road in iVt l^r., or by the new
Coruiche Road round Mont Gros in 2V2-3 hrs. — On the Kent Groe
(1220 ft.), 4V4M. to the N.E., above the Route de la Corniche (see
below), is a large and excellently equipped Observatory, contain-
ing one of the largest refractors in Europe (30>inch lens) and a float-
ing dome (adm. on application at the entrance).
74. Excursions from Nice.
a. From Kiee to Mentone by the Oomiehe.
18Va V- Cabbiagb (25-90 fr.) in 4 hrs., highly recommended. OniviBrs
to La Turbie and Le Laghet daily (2 fr.). Brakes, see p. 479. — Those
who have not time for more should at least walk along the Corniche
road to a point about 1/4 M. beyond the Auberge des Quatre - Chemins,
then descend to Villefranche, and return to Nice by the eoast.
The celebrated ""Route de la Corniehe, constructed under Napo-
leon I. by the pr^fet Puhouchage, traverses the most beautiful part
of the Riviera, and is far preferable to the railway. As the drivers
prefer the new and lower road, which is less picturesque, it is
well to stipulate eicpressly for the Grande Comiehe route. The road
ascends amid rich vegetation, commanding a beautiful retrospective
view of Nice and its surroundings. It first sweeps round the Mont
I
VENCB. V. Routt 74, 486
Gros (p. 484) and approaches the sea a little beyond the entrance
to the Observatory, passing the Col des Quatre-Chemina (1130 ft.;
inn ; 5 M. from the Place Mass^na). Below, to the right, are Ville*
franche (to which we may descend in 50 min. vi4 the Valley of
the Murtha; ^2 b^'* ^V ^^® short-cuts), Beaulieu, and the wooded
promontory of St. Jean (p. 463).
The Xont Paoanaille or Mont Leuze (1895 ft.; fine view) may be as-
cended in 3/4 br. from the Quatre - Ghemins Inn by a good path.
On the right appears Eze (p. 463; V4 ^^* from the road), a
group of venerable houses, perched on a precipitous isolated rock.
The culminating point of the road (1 775 ft.), between £ze and the
fortified Monts de V Alle {2300 ft.), commands an extensive retro-
spect of the snow-clad Alps. Farther on we pass the beginning of
the road to Le Laghet (p. 492) and reach (10V« M.) La Turbie
(p. 492), to which a mountain railway plies from Monte Carlo
(p. 492). The view hence is very fine.
Beyond La Turbie the Corniche road descends and approaches
the coast, commanding a continuous fine view of the Riviera di Po-
nente as far as Bordighera. To the left are Mont Agel (p. 492), and,
farther on, another Mont Oroa (2152 ft.). 15*/2 M. Roquebrune
or Roceabruna, see p. 464. About Vt ^* farther on, the Monaco
road joins ours on the right, and that town is seen behind us. —
I8V2 M. Mentone, see p. 492.
b. From Nice to Orafio.
A. Vid Canneff 34 M., see pp. 463, 461, 475. — B. Vid the Ligne du Sud,
30 m., railway in about 81/2 hrs. (fares 4 fr. 10 c, 3 fr.). Return-tickets
(6 fr., 4 fr. 50 c.) are available for 3 days and may be uaed on either line.
The Ligne du Sud, a narrow-gauge railway, runs through an
interesting mountain - district , traversing 17 viaducts, 9 tunnels,
and a double-tier bridge, and passing numerous small stations. —
2V2 M. La Madeleine. At (8 M.) Colomars (200 ft.; Hdtel-Restaur-
ant) a line diverges to Puget-Th^niers (p. 486). The line now bends
to the W. and crosses the Var by means of the Pont de Manda, the
lower tier of which is used for the road. Fine views. — ISVz M.
St. Jeannet'la-Qaude (856 ft.). St. Jeannet lies at the foot of the
Baou (2628 ft.), a huge crag, 3 M. to the right; La Gaude about
2 M. to the left of the line, with a ruined castle of the Templars.
Beyond a tunnel we cross the curious Gorge of the Cagne.
16 M. Vance (1066 ft. ; *H6t, Auzicu; Lion d'Or), an ancient town
with 3100 inhab. and the remains of fortifications. The former Ca-
thedral dates mainly from the 10th, 12th, and 15th cent., and con-
tains some good 15th cent, carving. — 19 M. Towrrc^^c* (1040 ft.),
a village on a steep height to the right, with three towers and other
remains of fortifications. The line now descends rapidly and enters
the valley of the Loup, where it is carried by a lofty curved viaduct
over the Gorges du Loup (see p. 486) to (23 7j M.) Le Loup (755 ft).
486 V, Routt 74, LA TIN^. Excursions
The *Oorf es du Loup {Or. H6t. du Loup ; Resiaurant de la Cascade^ trout),
a highly picturesque ravine about 6 M. in length, with curious rock-for-
mations and waterfalls , is a favourite point for excursions from Cannes
and from Grasse. The visitor should go at least as far as (1 hr.) the
Cascade de Courmes (130ft. high; Restaurant Millo, d^j. 3-4 fr.). On a cliff
(2630 ft. ) to the left of the gorge (IVa hr. from Le Loup) is perched the
village of Qourdon (fine view from the castle).
Beyond Le Loup the line once more ascends. 25^2 M. Lt Bar
(Hot. du Commerce), a picturesquely situated village with a ruined
castle and a church containing interesting carvings and paintings,
including a ^Dance of Death'. Before and after (28 M.) Magagnose
we thread a tunnel, then descend rapidly, and cross a lofty viaduct.
— 30 M. Grasse (Qare du Sud), see p. 475.
c. From Nice to Piiget>-Th6ni6r8 (Digue),
361/2 M. Railway (Ligne du Sud) in 31/2-3 hrs. (fares 4 fr. 95, Sfr. 65c.).
To (8 M.) Colomars, see p. 485. — The Puget-Th^niers line thence
ascends the Valley of the Var, side by side with the road, traversing
numerous tunnels, bridges, and embankments, and affording flue
views both up and down the valley. To the right is the Mont Chauve
d'Aspremont {2130 ft), crowned by a fort. — 13M. iS^ Martin-du-
Var (387 it.), at the confluence of the Var and the Esteron, in a
fertile basin, surrounded by steep cliffs, on which are perched four
villages. The road to these traverses the suspension-bridge beside
the station of (14 M.) Pont- Charles- Albert (405 ft.).
An omnibus runs hence to (31/2 M.) Oilefte^ whence the Moat Vial
(6085 ft.), an excellent point of view, may be easily ascended in 3Va hrs.
via (1 hr.) Revest (3800 ft.). The ascent is also made from Malausshte (see
below) in 88/4 hrs., via the (2V2 lirs-) <^'«^ <*« »^««' (^046 ft.).
Beyond (I5V2 M*) Levens-Vesubie (455 ft.; hotel) we cross the
Vesubie (to St. Martin-V^subie, see p. 487). — Farther on, the valley
of the Var contracts and forms the *ClfM du Ciaudan or de VEchau-
dan, a gorge where there is scarcely room for both road and railway
between the perpendicular cliffs (650-1300 ft.). Numerous tuunels.
— 18 M. La Tinee (525 ft.; buffet).
An omnibus (3 fr.) plies hance in connection with the trains in 4-6 hrs.
to (131/2 M.) St. Sauvenr-sur-Tinie (1630 ft.-, •H6t. Wiart; Eichier), via the
Gorges de la Mesela (see below) and the beautiful valley of the Tinie. Thence
to Valdeblore^ see p. 488; to Beuil (see below), 4i/s hrs. to the W., bridle-
path via (3 hrs.) Roitbion. — Fiom St. Sauveur an omnibus (Sfr.) runs daily
in 6 (return 4) hrs. to (18 M.) Si. Etienne-de- Tin4e (3740 ft. ; •Hot. de France;
Issautier; guide, Gh. Gallean), whence the Ome de la Bercia (74(5 ft.;
3 hrs.) and the Chignon de Rabuons (9868 ft.^ 6 hrs.) may be ascended.
From St. Etienne to Barcehnnette (p. 374) over the Co( de la MouUkre
(7950 ft.), 11 hrs.
Beyond La Tin^e we cross the Var and beyond a curved tunnel
reach (20 M.) La Mescla (610 ft.), at the confluence of the Var and
the Tin^e. — 24 M. Malaussene- Massoins (767 ft.; ascent of Mont
Vial, see above). The Var is recrossed near the Cascade d'Able
(inn). — 26 M. Villars-du- Var (H6t. Malausstfna), to the right.
30 M. Tone t-de- Beuil (1060 ft. ; ♦H6tel Latty), another pictur-
esque village to the right, near a steep cliff with a fine waterfall.
-- Crossing the Cians, we reach (31 M.) Le Oians (HOG ft.).
from Nice. ST. MARTIN-V^SUBIE. V. Route 74, 487
A road traverses the *Oorf es of the Giana to (14 M.) Beail About II/4 hr.
from Le Cians is the Mouhn de Rigaud (1640 ft. ^ hotel - restaurant) , at
the foot of 8t. Jiacaire. About 3 hrs. farther on the gorge becomes so
narrow that the sky ean no longer be seen. We then pass the Maulim
de Bevil and in 1 hr. more reach Beuil (4770 ft.; Hot. Pourchier; F^raud),
frequented as a summer - resort, on the S. slope of the Mont Monnier
(92fi^ ft.), the easy ascent of which may be made in 3 hrs. (biidle-path).
Fine view. On the lower peak is an observatory connected with that
on Mont Gros (p. 484). — OuiUaumet (see below) lies 9 M. to the W. of
Beuil, via (41/2 M.) Pione (see below).
36V2 M. Piieret-Th6niers (1335 ft.; B^ffet; Hdt.Laugier; Croix
de Malte) , with 1224 iuhab. , is picturesquely situated in a fertile
plain watered by the Yar. It possesses a ruined chateau and remains
of the old ramparts, now laid out as gardens.
Road to St. Andri-de-Miouillea (diligence in connection with the morn-
ing-train) and railway thence to Digne^ see p. 404.
An omnibus (3 fr.) plies several times daily in 41/4 hrs. from Puget-
Th^niers to the (I8I/2 M.) tiny town of Ouillaumet (Hot. des Touristes; de
rUnion ^ Giniez) , through the upper valley of the Var. The ^Gorges of
Daluis , passed on the way , with their curious green and red rocks,
are even more remarkable than those of the Cians. The road is con-
structed more than 660 ft. above the river. — About 4i/s H. to the E. lies
Pione (inn), whence Mont Monnier may be ascended in 3 hrs. (see above).
d. From Hioe to St. Martin- V6fn1>ie.
36 M. Railway to (I51/2 M.) Levens-Vitubie in l-li/<. hr. (fares 3 fr. 10,
1 fr. 56 c): thence Diligence twice daily in 41/2 ^n. to (SOVa ^3 St. Martin
(fare 3 fr. 90 c). — A passport is indispensable for excursions on the. frontier.
To (I5V2 M.) Levens' Vesubie, see pp. 485, 486. — The St. Martin
road diverges to the right from that to Puget-Th^niers and ascends
the imposing *Oorge of the Vesubie. Near (21 M.) 5/. Jean-de^la-
Riviere (Hdt. du Midi; Restaurant des Alpes), a hamlet with a
curious old church, it passes through two tunnels.
About 4 M. to the left lies the ancient town of Uielle (3635 ft. ; inn),
whenee Mont Breeh (6360 ft. \ view) may be ascended in 4 hrs. by the
(1 hr.) Col du Oine$ti. The descent may be made to (3 hrs.) Roquebilli^re
(see below).
24 Vj M. Le Suchet. — 21^1^ M. Bas-Lantosque (Hot. des Voya-
geurs), at the mouth of a ravine, belongs to Lantosque^ a village
on the hill to the left.
Farther on, to the right, 3Va M. from Bas-Lantosque, is La Sollhie
(Hot. de la BoUene), and still farther on (IV4 ^- from Roquebilli^re, see
below) is Belvidire (3o00 ft. ; Hot. Franco), overlooking the valley of the
Oordolasque. This mountain-valley, the upper end of which is in Italy,
is imposing but very arid. About 6 hrs. from Belvedere is the Refuge
Nice of the F. A. G. (7380 ft.), whence the Mont Clapier (9990 ft.), one of
the finest points of view in the Maritime Alps, may be ascended in 31/2 1^'^-
without difficulty. In the vicinity is the beautiful Lac Long (8440 ft. ;
50 acres in area), at the foot of the G^las (p. 488), covered with floating
ice even at the height of summer.
31 M. RoquebUliere (1896 ft.; Hdtel de France). About
1 V| M. farther on a road diverges to the right to (27} M.) Berthemoni
(3280ft,; Grand Hdtel, etc.), a summer-station with sulphur-springs.
36 M. St. Vartin - y^Bubie , formerly St. Martin - Ijantosguc
(3110 ftv ; Hdt. Regina; Vesubie; des Alpes; de Londres; Ariglo-
488 V. Route 74, SOSPEL.
Americain; several pensions; Eng, Ch, Service), at the confluence
of the Madone-de-Fenestre stream and the Bor^on, is visited as a
summer-resort. There is a cold sulphur-spring, 1V4^* ^ ^^^ N.
ExcvRBiova (guidee^ A. Ciaity M. Na/ta^ J. B. PlefU^ eU.). About 3i/«hre>.
to the W., via a bare plateau and the (IVt hr.) Col de St. JiarHn (4947 ft.),
is VaUM>lore (3410 ft. \ Hdt. leard) , pleasantly situated near meadows.^
forests, and small lakes, and united by a road with St. Sauveur(p. 486). about
8 M. to the W. — The valley of the Bop^on leads to (U/a hr.) Oiriegia
(4760 ft.; hotel), where the Bor^on forms a fine fall, 115 ft. in height,
and near which is the forest-clad Vallon de Salkses. — The Tite de Pi<»gu
(7686 ft.) , to the N.£. , may be ascended in 21 /^ hrs. — A route leads to
the S. past Yenanson (see above) to (3i/s hrs.) the Pointe de Siruol (6790 ft.),
covered with fine forests in which wolves still occur. — About 3 hrs.
to the E. is the Madone de Fenestre (6187 ft. ^ hotel), a pilgrim - resort be-
yond the frontier, surrounded by an amphitheatre of mountains. Thence
we may ascend to (3 hrs.) the pastures of Prals^ studded with little lakes ;
or bv a good path to (IVa hr.) the Col de Fenesire (8100 ft.} refuge-hut;
admirable view), whence we may descend to Entraque, Valdieri, and
Cuneo; or to (41/2-5 hrs.) the •Cime de OHat (10,385 ft. \ guide 12 fr.), a toil-
some but highly interesting ascent.
e. From Niee to Tenda and Vievola (CiuLeo-Tarin).
56 M. DiLioBNCE to (531/a M.) Tenda dailv from the Hot. de TAigle d'Or,
Place St. Francois, in lOl/a hrs. (fares 9, 7 fr.). An omnibus also plies to
Luceram and La Trlnit^^ Victor, and a tramway to Drap and Contea.
nice, see p. 476. The road ascends the valley of the Paillon to
the N. - 5 M. La THnite- Victor, IV4 hr. from Le Laghet (p. 492).
Then Drap and Ourdan. At (6V2 M.) Pont de PeUle we quit the
main valley, which leads to the right to (3 M.) Pelllon, a pictur-
esque village, resembling but even more quaint than Tourette
(p. 483) or Eze (p. 463). At (8 M.) Pointe-de- Contea a valley di-
verges to the left to Contee, a small town about 11 M. from Nice.
15 M. L'Esoartoe, Ital. Scarena (1090 ft.; Hot. de Paris), an
old place with some quaint buildings. In the church is a painting of
the 17th cent., with 15 predelle, representing the life of the Virgin.
Luc4ram (2184 ft.), a highly curious and formerly important village,
lies 41/2 M. from here, near the sources of the Paillon. The road goes
on thence to (13 M.) Peira-Ccna (4760 ft. ; Dot. Bellevue), a sunuDQer-rcsorl
surrounded by fine woods.
Beyond (16 M.) Touet-dd'Escarlne the scenery becomes
bare, and we cross the Col de Braus (3275 ft.).
28 M. Sospel, Ital. Sospello (1145 ft.; Hot, Carenco), with
3750 inhab., on the Bevera, is frequented as a summer-resort. Dil-
igence to Mentone, see p. 495.
In the upper valley of the Bevera lies (51/3 M.) MouUnet (9666 ft. ;
hotels), a summer^reaort In a charming situation. Near the aource of the
stream is the Col de Tourini (5390 ft. ; inn at the forester's), pleasantly
situated among pastures and woods (extensive view). <
The road once more ascends, crosses the Col de Brouis (2750 ft.;
fine view), and re-descends, leaving on the right BreU, ital. Breglio
(Hdt. de r Union), on the Roy a. We then ascend the valley of this
stream (to Ventimlglia, see p. 464), — Beyond (41 M.) La Giandola
(1245 ft. ; H6t. de TUnion ; des Strangers) we pass a defile and then
MONACO. y. Bmt€ 76. 489
the Tillage ot Saorgt oi Saorgio, ■— At (46 M.) Fontan or Fontana
is the French custom-house. Beyond the Italian frontier we enter,
2 M. farther on, the imposing defile of the *Qola di Oaudarena,
50 M. San Dalxnaszo di Tenda (2250 ft.) contains the Italian
custom-house and an ancient convent, now a hydropathic establish-
ment (Qotel^ pens. 8 fr.). Interesting grottoes in the neighbour-
hood. — Beyond another romantic gorge we reach —
53V2M. Tenda (2675 ft.; Hot, National, Zawaa, etc.), a pictu-
resque little town with 2000 inhab. (see Baedeker's Northern Italy),
The road farther on penetrates the Col di Tenda (6363 ft.) by means
of a tunnel about 2V2 M. long, lighted by elgctricHy. The old road over
the (3 hrs.) col is elosed to the public.
56 M. Vieoola (3050 ft.; diligence to Ventimiglia, see p. 404)
is the startitig-point of a railwa) which passes through the Tenda
.Tunn*l (5 M. in length) and descends via (27 M.) Cuneo (1755 ft. ;
Albergo Superga; Barra di Ferro) to (81 M.) Turin. See Baedeker's
Northern Italy.
75. Monaco. Monte Carlo. Men'tone.
I. Vonaoo.
See Inset Plan on Map ai p. 484.
Arrxral. The railway-station is at Condamine^ af the foot of the rock
on which Monaco stands. Omn. to the old town, 20 c.
Hotel* (all at Condamine). "Beau-Sejour, Rue St. Louis, with view,
E. 4-5, dej. 3, D. 4, pens. 9-10 fr. ; Beau-Site , Rue du Port i, R. from 3,
B. 1, dej. 2V21 ^' 3» pens. 9 fr. ; H6t. Moh^jgasqub, dej. 21/2, D. 3, pens, from
7 fr., well spoken of^ Bristol, with lift, R. from 3, dij. 3, D. 4 fr. ; de
LA Bbi^aissakcb, thesc three in the Boulevard de la Condamine, with view
of the sea*, •de la Condamikb, R. from SVa^ B- l^/a* <16j. 3, D. 3Va> pens.
8-10 fr. ^ DB LA Paix, R. from 3, ddj. 3, D. 31/2, pens, from 8 fr., these two
Rue des Princes', des Etrangbrs, R. SV2-6, B. il/a^ ^ej. 3, D. 31/2^ pens.
8-10 fr. \ DBS Dbujc-MomDes, d^Amglbterrb, de Marseille, db Fbakcb, all
in the Rue Florestine; Loudon House, •Pension Anolaise, Rue Albert,
pens. 8-10 fr. •, Quatrb-Saisoks, Boulevard Cbarles-Trois. — Near the rail-
way-station: •Hot. db Nice, R. from 3, D. Sfr.; Hot. des Negociakts,
D. 3fr. •, Hot. Mbublib^ Pbks. Fritsch.
Carriages as at Monte Carlo (p. 491). — Electric Xramwayi from the
Station to the Plcuse de la Visitation and to the Station at Monte Carlo ; from
Monte Carlo ^taiLon to the Casino and St. Roman. Fares 10-20 e. per section.
Post Offtoe, Ave. St. Martin, open from 8 a. m. till 7 p. m. (on Sun.
and holidays, 8-11 and 2-4). — Telegraph Ottoe, Rue des Briques 20 (open
8 a. m. to 9 p. m.).
Baths. Thermes Valentia^ Boulevard de la Condamine.
British Yioe-Consnl, Mr. Keogh, Boul. du Nord. — American Consular
Agent, Mr. Emile de Loth. — Bankers, Smith ie Co. (see p. 491).
English Chnroh. Chaplain, Rev. Francis Stewart^ M. A,
Monaco (195 ft.) is the capital of the diminutive principality
of the same name, which included Roccabruna and Menton« down
to 1848. The name is derived from a temple of Heracles Monoikos,
founded here by the Phoenicians; the monk in the arms of the
town was a Hercules until the middle ages. This little ^enclave' in
French territory is about 2V4 M. long and 165 to 1100 yds. wide
490 V. Route 76. MONTE CARLO.
(area 5^4 sq. M.) and contains about 15,000 inhabitants. It is govern-
ed by sovereign princes of the house of Orimaldi; the reigning
prince is Albert I. (b. 1848), who succeeded in 1889. The principality
issues its own coinage and postage-stamps.
The town consists of two parts: Af(maco proper, with 3300 inhab.,
picturesquely situated on a bold promontory at the foot of the Tete
de Chien, and Oondamine, or the new town, on the bay below.
The latter, now the more Important of the two (6200 inhab.), is a fa-
vourite health-resort in winter and a sea-bathing place in summer.
To the N.W. opens the pretty VcUlon de Ste. D/vote, named from a
pilgrimage-chapel, situated to the right, beyond the rail way- viaduct.
Descending from the railway -station towards the sea, we soon
reach the Place d'Abmes, whence walkers ascend to Monaco by a
path to the right, while carriages follow a road which winds round*
the promontory and approaches the palace from the £.
The Palace, a building of the Renaissance, with crenelated
towers, contains sumptuous apartments adorned with frescoes (shown
in summer 2-4 p.m., in the prince's absence; fee). Behind the
palace is a fine Oarden, also shown to visitors in summer. — The
old guns in the Place du Palais were presented by Louis XIV . The
view from the parapet is highly picturesque.
The *Cathedrai, an imposing modern structure in the Roman-
esque style by Chas. Lenormand (1893-97), has a high cupola above
the crossing and an ambulatory with radiating chapels. — Near this
church, on the S. side of the town , is the Promenade St. Martirij
laid out on the old ramparts and commanding a splendid 'View
of the sea and coast. — Adjoining the promenade is a small
Museum, open on Sun., Tues., & Thurs., 1-4 p. m.; and near this
a large Museum, of Oceanography is now building.
Monte Carlo is aboat il/4 M. from Monaco vi& Gondamine.
n. Vonte Carlo.
ArriTal. The Principal Station is near the Casino (aseemeur^ or lift,
25 c, up and down 36 e.). Station of La Turbie^ see p. 49S.
Hotels (see Plan, p. 484). At Monte Carlo proper: 'M^tropolb (PI. 1),
with 350 rooms from 7, B. ii/2, d6j. 6, D. 7 fr. 3 *H6tel i>« Paris (PI. 2),
d6.). 4, D. 6 fr. ^ Hbbmitage Hotbl^ *Oraiii> - HStbl (PI. 8), B. from 8, D.
7 fr. ; these four near the Casino and handsomely fitted up. St. Jambs
Hotel (Pi. 5), R. from 6, B. ii^, d^i. 4, D. 7, pens, from 15 fr.i *H6tbl dba
Adolais (PI. 4), B. 41/s-iO, dej. 4-41/2, D. 5-d, pens, from 12 fr.: Savoy
(Pi. 6), R..6-i5, dej. 4, D. 5 fr. ;. Rotal, Boul. Pereir», pens. 15-32 fr. -,
Balmoral Palace, R. from 5, pens. 12-18 fr. \ Pbihcb db Gallbs bt Vic-
toria, R. from 6, B. IVa-t D' 6 fr., these situated higher up ^ Wiudsor, R.
from 6, D. 5 fr. ; Splekdide, R. 3-6, pens, from 9 fr. ; Pavillow du Parc,
R. from 10, D. 6 fr. ; db Lovdrbs, R. from 6, D. 5 fr., well spoken of; dv
Ugldbr, R. from 8 fr.; Albxamdra; Villa d«s Fububs, R. from 7, pens.
from 12 fr.; Hot. Mbrmet, Hot. db Russib, R. from 3, D. 4ya fr. ; Hot, dbs
Pal^iers, R. from 6, D. 4 fr. : HOt. des Colouies, R. 4-B, pens, from
11 fr.; DO LoDvRB, R. S-Si/g, D. 3V2 ^'-'i »» (Jhm*vb, Boul. du Nord,
well spoken of; 'du Littoral, Boul. des Moulins, B. 4, d^j. 3, D. 3i/t,
pens, from 8 fr. ; Pbmsiom Villa Lucib, 10-15 fr. — In Monte Carlo Supi-
rieur: •Riviera Palace, a large establishment of the first class, R.
MONTE CARLO. V, Route 75. 491
from 15, B. S, dtfj. 61 D. 10, board 15, omn. 2 fr. — At Let Moulins, to
the E. : •Hot. db la Tbrbassb, 12-20 fr. ; Pbvs. Villa Ravbl, 8-15 fr. — In
the Avenue de Monie Carlo^ leading to Gondamine : *Mokte Gablo, R. from 6,
dej. 4., D. 6 fr. ; Bbad-Bivaob, pens. 12-16 fr. ; H6t. dbs Pbi»cbs. — Near the
railway-station : Hot. TsBMiiiusBT Cosmopolitaiv, B. from 3, d^j.3^ D.31/3 fr.;
HdTBL DBS GouBMBTs \ Katiohal ; DB L^EuBOPB. — Lodgingi and Furnished
Apartments abound. — House Agent, Roustan^ Boulevard des Moulins.
Beatanxaate. Mitropale (p. 490), *Restaurant de PaH$ (D. 6 fr.), •Restaurant
Frangaitt at the Grand-Hdtel, Hermitage (p. 490), Pavilion Dori^ all these
with high charges ; Oiro^s New Restaurant , Galerie Charles-Trois ; Frires
Proven^aux^ at the Hotei de Russie ^ R6^ Boul. des Moulins. — Confec-
tiftnan: /. Eckenberg^ at the Grand-Hotel; Rumpelmayer^ Avenue de la
M6tropole; Pasquier^ Ave. St. Michel.
Post and Telegraph Of&oe, Ave. de Monte Carlo (open as at Monaco).
Bankers, Smith & Co., Galerie Charles III, adjoining the Hot. M^tropole.
Znfliah Phyaioiana: Dr. Hutchinson y Villa Mai; Dr. Fagge, Villa de
la Porte Rouge; Dr. Fitz-Oerald; Dr. Pryce Mitchell, Villa Henri; Dr. Rolla
Rouse. — Dentist: Mr. Ash.
Carriages. Per course within the principality of Monaco U/2^ P^r hr.
3 fr., at night 21/2 or 5 fr. ; to Nice and back , with stay of 3 hrs., 25 fr.
For other drives beyond the principality, consult the tariff. — Tramways,
see p. 489. — Brake to Nice, 3 and 5 fr. (comp. p. 479).
Monte Carlo (7600 inhab.), belonging to the principality of Mo-
naco, and beautifully situated in a sheltered bay, is well known for
its charming climate, but is chiefly visited on account of its gaming
facilities.
The handsome Casino, built by Charles Oarnier in 1878, stands
on a promontory to the E. of the town. The Salles de Jeu lie to the
left of the entrance. In front is the Salle des Fetes y adorned with
paintings by Feyen-Perrin, Oust. Boulanger, etc. On the first floor,
to the left, is a well-equipped reading-room. Outside are statues
of Music, by Sarah Bernhardt, and Dancing, by Oust. Dore.
The Gaming Rooms are open daily, from 11.30 a. m. till 11.30 p. m., by
tickets obtained gratis at the office (to the left , in the vestibule) on pre-
sentation of visiting-cards. Inhabitants of the principality are not ad-
mitted. — The other rooms are also open from 10 a.m. till midday by
special ticket (^carte blanche*). Music twice daily; concert of classical
music on Thurs. (in winter), 2.15 p. m. (3-6 fr.).
The games played at the Casino are Boulette and Trente-et-ftuarante,
the minimum and maximum stakes being respectively 5 and 6000, dO and
12,(X)0 fr. In the roulette there are 36 numbers and a zero , on any of
which the player may place his stake (enjeu). If his number is success-
ful, he receives from the Bank 35 times the amount staked. When the
ball falls into the zero compartment, the Bank wins, not only the stakes
on the other numbers, but also half of these risked on ^rouge ou nolr*,
'pair ou impair', ^manque* (Nos. 1-18), or "^passe' (Nos. 19-36), the other
half being left 'en prison' till the next revolution. There are also other
regulations in favour of the Bank. — The game of trente-et-quarante is
played with six packs of cards (312 cards in all) , which the croupier
deals out in two rows, the first known as 'noire', the second as 'rougeV
The row of which the value most nearly approaches 30 (court cards count-
ing as 10) wins, the players receiving double the value of their stakes.
In the case of a tie a 'refait' is made. If, however, the score is 31 to
31, the 'refait' is in favour of the Bank, which places the stakes 'en
prison', gathering in those of the losers on the next deal and paying no>
thing to the winners. The players may also bet on the colour of the
first card of each series, that of the first row being known as 'couleur',
that of the second as 'inverse'. Neither wins unless its series is also
successful.
492 V. Route 75, M£NTON£. HoteU,
The terrace behind the Casino commands a splendid *yiew. It
is adjoined by the Tir aux Pigeons, the competitions of which
attract the best trap-shots of all countries. In Jan. there is a ^Qrand
Prix' of 20,000 tr.
In front of the Casino are beautiful *Oardens, admirably kept
and containing numerous exotic trees and plants. To the left stands
the Palais des Beaux- Arts, where an exhibition of modern works of
art is held from Jan. to April (daily, 9-5; adm. 1 fr.). Farther on,
beyond the limits of the principality, are the La Twbie Station
and the imposing building of the Credit Lyonnais.
Fbom Mostb Carlo to La Turbib, mountain-railway in 90 min. (fares
3 fr. 10, 2 fr. 30 c, return, 4 fr. 65, 3 fr. 45 c). The line is about 2 M. long
and rises 1345 ft. on the S. slope of the Ste. Devote valley (p. 490). There
are intermediate stations at Monte Carlo Supirieur and Bordina^ and the
upper terminus is on the Corniche road (see p. 485). — La Turbie is also
reached from La Gondamine and Monte Carlo by two roads, one on each side
of the valley, in U/4 and II/2 hr. respectively, and another road leads
from the Riviera Palace Hotel (p. 490). Carriages fVom Nice, see p. 484. —
La Turbie or Turbia (1594 ft. •, *Restaurant du Right dl^Hiver^ at the station :
B61el$'Restaurant$ National and de France; villas to let-, English Church)
is an ancient village^ chiefly visited by tourists for the sake of the view.
It contains the remains of the Roman Tropaea Augurti (hence the name),
erected in B. C. 6 to commemorate the subjection of the Ligurians. In the
18th cent, the monument was used as the base of a tower, now very
ruinous. A magniflcent *yiew is obtained hence of the mountains and
coast as far as Ventimiglia on the £., and on the W. of the French coast,
the lie Ste. Marguerite, the Esterel, and other distant mountains.
Route de la Gomiche^ see p. 484. About i/a M. from La Turbie, in the
direction of Nice, a road diverges to the right from this route and leads
to (I/4 hr.) Le Itagbet or Notre- Dame-de-Laghet (1116 ft. \ two restaurants),
a celebrated pilgrim-resort, much visited on Trinity Sunday, a d^pend-
ance of a convent founded in 1654. We may return by La Trinity- Victor
(p. 488). — About 1 M. to the S. of La Turbie rises the THe de Chien (1880 ft.),
a hill once noted as a point of view, but now occupied by a fort. — The
Mont Agel (3770 ft.), reached in 2l/s hrs. by a road diverging to the left
of the Gurniche Route, has had a similar experience.
III. Hentone.
AnriyaL Mentone has two railway -stations, Menion (PI. D, 4) and
Menton-Oaravan (PI. G, 3), for the W. and E. bays respectively.
Hotels and Penaiona. The larger hotels have hydraulic lifta and
heated corridors and staircases, and send omnibuses to the station. The
charge for a room with southern aspect varies from 91A to 10 fir. ; pension
(R., A., B., luncheon, and D. \ wine extra) from 6 to 20fr. per day. — On
the W. Bay. At some distance from the sea: *Ilb8 Britammiqchs (Pi. a;
D, 4), R. from 6, B. U/a, d^j. 4, D. 6, pens, from 12 fr. ; 'Natiokal (PI. b;
E, 3), D. 8-8, pens. 12-18 fr. •, 'du Louvrb (PI. c, D, 4), R. from 6, D. 5 fr. •,
*^B8 Ambassadeurs (Pi. d-, E, 4), pens. 9-16 fir. ^ Victoria bt obs Privcbs
(PI. e^ E, 4). R. from 4, pens, from iO fr. ; •d'Oribut (PI. f; E, 4), R. 51/9.
D. 5, pens, rrom 10 fr. •, *db Russib bt d'Allbmaomb (PI. h; E, 4), R. 4-8,
pens. 10-16 fr. *, *db Turik bt BBAU-SibjovR (PI. i; E, 4), pens. 8-12 fr. ^
DB Maltb (PI. k-, E, 4), R. 21/2-1^1 pens. 8-10 fr.; *db Vbmisb (PI. E, 4;
English); DB LA Posts, unpretending. — Beyond the station, in an ele-
vated position : *Rivibra Palacb (PI. K P ; D, 3), R. 4-8, D. 5-6, board
8fr. ; WivTBR Palacb (new); Mokt-Flbdrt (PI. m; D, 4), R. 4i/j-8l/j,
pens. 11-15 fr. — In the Promenade du Midi, Avenue F^Iix Paure
and Rue St. Michel, near the sea : *H6tbl Rotal it Wbstm ivstbr (PI. n ;
E, 4), R. 41/3-9, pens. 8-16 fr.; db Paris (PI. o; E, 4), R. from Sl/j, pens,
from 9 fr. ; •Wiudsor Palacb (PI. g; E, 4), R. 3-5, pens. 8-12 fr. ; *Balmoral,
■I^istei^eHid^ra/Aes
1 jb^ltUs ts
Ca8ino$. MENTONE. V. Boute 75. 493
R. from 3, pen«. from 8 fr.; DBa Golokies, R. 3l/4-4V4<) pens. 8-13 fr., well
spoken of; ds Mbvtom bt du Midi (PI. p; F. 4), R. from 3, pens. 9-15 fr. —
In the Avenue de la Oare -. Hdt. Waosbr, pens. 9-13 fr. ; dd Paec (PI. q ; E^4),
R. from 4, pens, from 8 fr., well spoken of; Hot.-Rbstaubavt d*Eubopb bt
Tbsmii«D8 (PI. et; D, 4), same charges; HdT.-RBSTAUKAVTS Suissb et db la
Qarb; Hot.'Rbstaobavt obs Dbvx-Mohdbs, R. from 3 fr., unpretending. —
To the W. of the Jajrdin Public and the Ave. Garnot: Hr>T. MiTHOPOLB bt
Splbkdidb (PI. r; D, 4); db Lovdrbs (PI. s; D, 4, 5), pens. 6-10 fr.; Savot
ET St. Gborob (PI. t, D 6; 'Engl.); Prikgb db Gallbs, R. 41/2^ pens, from
9 fr. ; Pbrs. db Famillbs. — In the Vailee du Boirieo: Pbks. des Rosibrs
(PI. u; D, 5). — In the Gorbio valley, to the S.W., 30 min. from the middle
of the town : *Albxavdra Hotel (PI. v ; G, 5), a large house in the English
style, pens. 11-30 fr. ; Sanatorium db Gorbio, Si/s M. from the town, for
consumptive patients, pens, and medical treatment 30-30 fr. — At the Gap
Martin (p. 495): *Grand - HOtbl du Gap Martin, R. from 6, D. TVs fr.
Adjacent, on the road: Hotel Victoria, with restaurant.
On the E. Bay: 'ndTBL d'Italib (PI. w; F, 3), R. 5-9, pens. 8-13 fr.;
Grande Brbtaokb (PI. x, F 3; same proprietor), R. from 31/2 1 pens.
12-15 fr.; Bbllbvub (PI. y; F, 3), *db8 Anglais (F1. z; F, 3), both patro-
nised by the English, R. from 4, D. 5, pens, from 10 fr.; Grand-Hotel
(PI. GH; G, 3), close to the Garavan station, R. 41/41 D. 5, pens. 8-13 fr.;
*Beauriva6e (PI. BR; G, 3), B. 3-41/2, pens. 8-11 fr.; *Santa Maria, pens.
7-10 fr. ; Hot. Britannia, R. from 3 fr.
All the hotels and pensions are closed in summer, except the Hotel
de Menton, Hot. de France, and those near the principal station.
Apaxtmentot In both bays there are many charming and sometimes
handsomely furnished villas, a list of which (about d(X)) may be obtained
of Charlef Palmaro , Cook's Agency^ Boglio^ Oust. Atnarante,, or Ton. Am-
arante^ who draw up contracts of lease , take inventories of furnishings,
and compare them again when the visitor leaves. Rents 1(X)0-7(XX) fr. and
upwards for the season. Private apartments, from 700 fr. upwards, where
families can live less expensively than at a pension, are to be had in
the Avenue Felix Faure, Rue de la Republique, and elsewhere.
Reatanrants at all the hotels. — Caf6a. *Gafi de Paris^ Rue St. Michel ;
Cafi dts V&yageurty Avenue de la Gare ; Brasserie de JfuntcA, Taverne Fla-
mande^ Rue Partouneaux. — ConfaotioBerB. Rumpehnayer (ices), OiovanolU
Avenue Felix Faure; Eckenberg^ at the Jardin Public.
Phyaioiana. Drs. Campbell^ Siordet^ Rendal^ and Samuiays^ Enelish;
Dr. Stiege^ German; Dr. Franeken^ Dutch; Drs. Farina, Just, Mahbran^
and Ghiais, French. •» Sentiata: O. Jiounty Edgar Kerr, — Ohemiata: British
Phartnacy (Jassoud), Lindewald, Oddo, Gilson, Bizos^ and Faraut, all of
whom make up English and German prescriptions during the winter.
Bathai HugoUy Rue Partouneaux (1 fr. 40 t.j hot salt-water bath
31/3 fr.); Laniberty Quai de Garavan; at the H6i. vietoria.
Poat and TaLegraph OfAoe (PI. 3; E, 4), Rue Partouneaux (from 7 or
8 a. m. till 9 p. m. ; till 4 p. m. on Sun. and holidays).
Britiah Vioe-Conaul, Mr. Hector H. Hill. — United Btatea Oonaular Agent,
M. AehilU Isnard.
Bankan. Credit Lyonnaisy Ave. Fdlix Faure 15; Banque de France, Rue
Villarey; Banque Populaire, Rue Partouneaux 41. — Book Shopa. Librairie
CentraUy Rue St. Michel, with lending library; Librairie Intemationaie,
Clapoi, Ave. Felix Faure. — Public Library, in the Hotel de Ville, open
on Tues. , Thurs., A Sat.. 10-13 and 3-5. — Basaara. Maison ModOe, Rue
St. Michel ; Bazar Parisien and Bazar de Menton, Avenue Victor Emanuel ;
Au Petit Paris, for ladies. — Photographera. Anfossi and Ouesquin, Rue
Partouneaux.
Kuaie in the Jardin Public on Mon., Tues., Wed., Thurs., A Sat., 1.30-3
r. m. (in the Gasino Municipal in bad weather), also from Ist Jan. to
5th April, 11-13; on Sun. at the Place du Cercle, 3-4 p. m.
Caainoa. Ccuino Municipal or Central (PI. 1; E.4), Rue Villarey (re-
feerved seat 3 or 3 fr.) ; Casino de Menton, Rue de la Republique (adm. 1 fr.).
494 V. R<mte 75. MBNTONE. aimate.
Omnibua in the season every 20 inin. from the Quartier Garavan on
the E. to the Avenue Lodola on the W. (near the Gap Martin; 90 e.)<i pass-
ing the Plaee Kationale (15 e.) ^ from the Place Rationale to the Villa
Caseria ^ in the Valine de Oarei (30 e.) , passing the railway - station of
Condamine (15 e.) ; and from the Plaee du Gap to Ventimiglia at 7 a. m. and
1.30 p. m. (fare to Grimaldi 60 c, Mortola 1 fr., Ventimiglia IV2 fr)-
Carriages. Drive in the town 1 fir., with two horses IV4 fz"") at night
ll/a or 2 fr. ; per hour 2 fr. 50, 8 fr. 50, 2 fr. 75, 3 fr. 75 c. •, half-day, one-
horse 8-lOfr,, day 12-15 fr., two -horse 25 fr. per day. — I>rive in the
Boul. de Oaravan 4-6 fr. ; to Gap Martin 8fr. ; Roquebrune and the
Valine de Menton 8 or 10 fr. : Mortola 10 or 15 fr.*. Valine de Gorbio and
back 10-15 fr. ; Monte Carlo 8-12, and back, with stay of 1-2 hrs., i2>i5 fr.
— Donkey 5 fr. per day, 21/2 f'- P^r half-day.
English Churohea. St. John's (PI. 8^ E, 4), Boul. Carnot, on the W. baj;
Christ Church (PI. 9; P, 3), on the E. bay, Promenade de Garavan. — Scotttsh
Church (PI. 10; E, 4), Rue de la Rlgpublique.
Olimate. Mentone is sheltered from the K. winds by a girdle of rocky
mountains, and is considered one of the most favourable spots for a
winter-residence on the Riviera. The E. bay in particular is thoroughly
sheltered, and has a mean temperature in winter of 50° Fahr. 'A cool and
refreshing breeze, however, generally springs up about noon, and the cold
''Brise' is also an occasional visitor. Between 1st Nov. and the end of
April rainy days average 40, while snow rarely falls. Fogs are unknown,
but heavy dews are frequent. The W. bay is less sheltered than the E.
bay, but has a greater choice of houses at a distance from the sea, and
affords pleasanter walks. The dusty roads are regularly watered, and the
sanitary arrangements have been improved.
Mentone, Fr. Menton, a small town with 9200 inhab. , formerly
belouging to the principality of Monaco, and annexed to France in
1861, is charmingly situated on the Oolfe de la Paix, consisting of
the Bale de I* Est or de Garavan and the Bate de I' Quest, separated
by a rocky promontory , on which the older parts of the town are
built. In the £. bay is the harbour, constructed in 1890 (fine view
from the breikwater). The luxuriant vegetation consists mainly of
orange and lemon groves, chiefly in the side -valleys (yielding
30-40 million lemons annually), interspersed with gnarled carob
trees (Oeratonia siliqua), figs, olives, etc. Afi a winter-resort Mentone
vies with Nice and Cannes, offering simpler and quieter quarters
than either of these, while not less favoured by climate.
From the principal station (PI. D, 4) we soon reach the right
bank of the Torrent de Caret, beyond which, on the W. Bay, lies
the principal part of the town. Here are the two great gathering-
places of visitors (11-2); the Promenade du Midi, skirting the
sea, and the Jardin Public (PI. £, 4). To the left, parallel with the
Promenade, begins the Avenue Fdlix Faure, forming, along with the
Rue St, Michel (PI. F, 4), 'the principal artery of the new town. At
the Place Roch is a Monument by Puech (PI. 3) commemorating the
union of Mentone with France, and in the Rue Partonneaux, diverg-
ing here to the left, is another to Dr. Bennet, an English physician
who did much to bring Mentone into favour as a winter-resort. —
In the Rue St. Michel, to the right, stands the Hotel de Ville, contain-
ing a small museum of prehistoric antiquities found near Mentone,
iucluding parts of some troglodyte skeletons (open daily, 9-12 and
Cap Martin, MENTONE. V. Route 75. 496
2 to 4 or 5). The Old Town, near this point, has tortuous, steep, and
badly-paved streets, but is very picturesque. Its principal building
is the Church of St. Michel (PI. F, 3), dating mainly from the 17th
cent, but largely rebuilt since the earthquake of 1887. Adjacent
is the Church of the Conception (PI. 5 ; F, 3), with 14 marble statues
of saints. The adjoining quarter, named Oaravan Cgare a vent'),
is also picturesque. At the opposite end of it from the small harbour
mentioned above is (17? M.) the Torrent de St. Louis (comp. p. 464).
The Oorniche road crosses the gorge by the *Pont St. Louis, 210 ft.
above the torrent. Here are the Orottes des Rochers'Rouges (PL £, 2),
now partly destroyed, in which the above-mentioned skeletons
were found (adm. 1 fr.).
Above the old town stood a chateau, the site of which has been
converted into a Cemetery. From the cemetery, and from the high-
lying Boulevard de Oaravan, which skirts the whole of the £. Bay,
we obtain a splendid view of the sea and of the coast from Bor-
dighera to the T6te-de-Chien. Another fine view is obtained from
the convent of 8S, Annunziata (PI. B, 2), to which a fair but steep
path, diverging near the Menton-Condamine station from the road
to Sospello, leads in Vz ^^'
The favourite object for a short drive from Mentone (1 hr. there
and back) is the Cap Kartin (PI. B, 4, 5), with its large hotel (p. 493 ;
carriage, see p. 494). Walkers (^4 hr.) follow the Boul. du Midi and
a road skirting the cape on the E., but may save at least V4 hr. by
taking the omnibus to La Lodola (p. 494). The cape is covered
with a forest, part of which is now the park of the Hotel du Cap
Martin (p. 493). On the highest point of the cape, near the hotel,
are a Signal Station (Semaphore) and the scanty remains of a con-
vent of the 11th century. On the farther slope is the Villa Cymos
(PI. A, B, 4), belonging to the ex-Empress Eugenie. Not far from
this is a ruin, probably a tomb, belonging to the old Roman settle-
ment of Lumone. About V4 M. farther on are the Mentone Reser-
voir and the Casino du Gap Martin (caf^-restaurant).
Other pleasant walks may be taken to the W. to the Vallee du
Torrent de Carex (see below) , the Vallte de Boirigo (or Borrigo),
and the ValUe de Qorbio; to the E. to Orimaldi (H6tel Garibaldi),
1 V2M. beyond the Pont St. Louis (see above), and to Mortola Infer-
lore, finely situated on a rocky promontory. A visit should be paid
here to *Sir Thomas Hanhwry's Garden, with its tropical vege-
tation, especially in Feb. and March, when the anemones are in bloom
(open on Mon. and Frid. afternoons ; strangers write their names
in the visitors' book ; adm. 1 fr., for the benefit of the poor). The
garden, which is the finest on the Riviera, contains upwards of 4500
species of plants (most of them labelled). It covers an area of nearly
60 acres, extends from the road down to the sea, and commands
magnificent views.
EzcuRsioMs (see Map, p. 484). A beautiful walk or drive may be made
496 F. Route 75. MENTONE.
by the road to Sospello ('I31/2 M. ; diligence daily in 3 hrs., returning in
2 hrs.). The road ascends the right bank of the Torrent de Gar^^ which
falls into the Baie de TOuest. Near (4 If.) Monti the road begins to as-
cend. About 3/4 M. farther on, a little to the right, is the Oourg de VOra^
a gorge with a water flftll. The road then winds up the Col de Ouardta
(two inns) , penetrating the upper part of the hill by a tunnel 88 yds.
long. Perched on a rock above the tunnel, 91/4 M. from Mentone, 41/4 H
from Sospello (p. 488), is the hamlet of Castillon (2530 ft.; Blaneardi's Inn).
— Another walk is by (IV4 hr.) Gastellar (Gafe-Bestaurant des Alpes) to
the (21/2-3 hrs.) BeroMo, with its two peaks, the Roc d'OmUa (3B50ft.)
and the Cime de Restaud (3/90 ft.). Magnificent prospect, embracing Corsica
in the distance. — Gastellar is also the starting-point for an ascent (ll/jhrs. -,
guide, Ben. Parmaro) of the Grand -Mont or Oranmondo (4515 ft.; view),
to the K. , by a bridle-path reaching to within 1/4 l^r- of the top. This
ascent may be made from the Berceau in 2 hrs. — From Gastellar we may
descend to (1 hr.) Monti (p. 495) or to (13/4 hr.) the Gourg de TOia
(p. 495). — To 8anV Agnese (poor inn), a village built at the foot of a
rocky ridge (2500 ft.) as a place of refuge from the Saracens (31/9 hrs. by
the Col de Garde). The return may be made via (il/j hr.) Gorbio (1436 ft. \
Gaf^ - Restaurant Eeynaud) and the new road (71/2 M.) or via (IV4 hr.)
the railway - station of Cabb^-Boquebrune (p. 464). — The Pie deBandon
(4143 ft.) is ascended in 5 hrs. from Mentone via Sanf Agnese and the Collet
de Bausson^ to the E. of the mountain; or by Oorbio (41/qM. ; easier route)
and the Col de la Madone - de - Oorbio (3140 ft.). Splendid view.
The following Boukd may be recommended to visitors whose time is
limited. We drive by the Sospello road (p. 488) as far as the tunnel of
the Col de Ouardia (31/^ hrs. ; 15 fr.), next visit Ccutillon (see above), and
then proceed to the S. , by a good footpath skirting the E. slope of the
Sirieocea (3494 ft.), to SanV Agnese (3 hrs.*, see above). Thence, by a stony
road, commanding splendid views, to Oorbio and Mentone (see above).
VI. CORSICA.
76. Ajaccio and its Enyirons 500
77. From Ajaccio to Evisa Ti& Vico and back vi& Porto . 504
I. From Ajaccio to Evisa via Vico 504
From Yieo to the Baths of Guagno. Forest of A'ltone.
From Evisa to Corte. Honte Ginto, 505.
II. From Evisa to Ajaccio via Porto 505
From Porto to Galvi, 606.
78. From Ajaccio to Bonifacio 506
From Gauro to Bastelica. From Santa Maria Siche
to Zicavo. Monte Incudine, 607.
79. From Ajaccio to Bastia 508
GoUe di Vizzavona. Monte d'Oro, 509. — Monte
Rotondo. From Ponte Leccia to Orezza, 510.
80. From Bastia to Isola Rossa and Calvi 511
a. Via Ponte Leccia 511
b. Vii San Fiorenzo 512
81. From Bastia to Capo Corso and back, skirting the
Peninsula 513
From Santa Severa to Pino, 513.
82. From Bastia to Bonifacio 514
From Folelli to Orezza. Prunete, Gervione, Pardina,
etc. From Ghisonaecia to Ghisoni, 514.
Steamboats. The steamer -service from French ports to Gorsica is
subject to alteration, and the traveller should not fail to consult the latest
time-tables and make enquiries of the agents of the Compagnie Transatlan-
tique or Oompetgnie Fraiuinet at Paris, Lyons, Nice, etc., or at the port of
embarkation. The boats are small, old, and not very comfortable^ and
punctuality is not one of their virtues. Food is not usually included in
the steerage fare. — I. Pbom Mabseilles to Ajaccio, 210 M., in 16-17 hrs. :
every Mon. and Frid. at 4 p. m. (fares 34 fr., 23 fr., 10 fr.). Betum-fares
50 fr. 60 c, 34 fr., 16 fr. (tickets also available from Bastia, Isola Bossa,
and Calvi). The Frid. boat goes on from Ajaccio to (3 hrs.) Propriano
(see p. 5(X)}. — II. From Maessillbs to Bastia, 340 M., in 19 hrs. -. every
Sun. and Thurs. at 11a.m. Fares 30 fr. 60, 20fr. 60, 10 fr. 50 c. —
III. Fbom Mabseillbs to Isola Bossa and Calvi or to Calvi and Isola
Bossa, 184-190 M., every Tues. at 11 a. m. in 15-16 hrs. (30, 20, 10 fr.) to
one or other of these ports, proceeding to the other (I1/4 hr.) after a halt
of 9-10 hrs. Beturn, see p. 6l2. — IV. Fbom Kicb to Bastia, 142 M., in
12 hrs., every Wed. at 5 p. m. (Marseilles boat ; 84 fr. 50, 23 fr. 50. 15 fr.
50 c.). Beturn, see p. 511. — V. Fbom Nicb to Ajaccio direct, 133 M.,
every Sat. in winter at 6 p.m. in I21/3 hrs. (30, 20, 15 fr.); via Calvi
or Jsola Eo*$ay 174- 188 M., every Sat. at 6 p.m. in summer in 17 hrs.,
including 3 hrs.* halt (34, 23, 15 fr.). These boats correspond with another
running to (81/3 hrs. from Ajaccio) Porto Torres in Sardinia. Beturn, see
p. 512. — VL Fbom Lbohobn to Bastia , 72 M. Comp. Fraissinet (ofdce at
Leghorn , Via San Sebastiano) in 7 hrs. , starting every Wed. at midday,
and Sat. at 10 p. m. (fares 17 fr., 14 fr, 15 c, food extra). Florio-RubatUno Co,
Baedeker. Southern France. 4th Edit. ' 32
498 CORSICA. Geography,
rofflce Piazsa Mieheli) every Thurs. at 11 a. m. in 6*/4 bra. (31 fr. 20,
15 fr. 10 c, food ineluded). Return, see p. 511.
A Passport is desirable for excursions in the interior of the island.
Corsica (French La Gorse^ Greek Gymos')^ situated between 43^ and
41°21'N. latitude, 50 M. distant from Italy and 100 M. from France, and
separated from Sardinia by the Strait of Bonifacio, which is 8 M. in width,
possesses an area of 3386 sq. H., and a population of 290,108 souls (eensus
of 1896). A broad mountain-chain, consisting of grey granite and limestone
formations, occupies almost the entire island. On the W. it rises abruptly
from the sea, forming a number of bold promontories and deeply indented
bays. On the £. side , towards Italy, the alluvial deposits have been more
abundant, and have formed a level coast of some breadth. The vast height
to which the mountains rise within a comparatively small space (e.g.
Monte d'Oro 7850 ft., Monte Rotondo F775 ft., Monte Cinto 8^ ft.) im-
parts a wild and imposing character to the scenery. The bulk of the area
of the island is uncultivated, while the mountains for the most part are
clothed with magnificent forests of larch, beech, evergreen oak, and chest-
nut. (Chestnut meal forms the staple food of the Corsican mountaineers.)
There are also large groves of olive. Many of the forests have, however,
been burned down by accident or design \ and their place has been taken by
pastures and by the so-called Maquis^ or dense thickets of arbutus, cistus,
lentisk, and heath, aflbrding shelter to brigands. The flora of the island
is remarkable for its rare luxuriance and diversity, comprising specimens
of almost every species of plant found on the shores of the Mediter-
ranean. The timber of Corsica was highly esteemed by the ancients, and
still supplies French and Italian dockyards. Its mineral wealth, however,
is far inferior to that of Sardinia, though it possesses numerous mineral
springs. Good wine is produced in several districts , and honey forms
an article of export.
The character of the natives, notwithstanding the levelling and equal-
ising effects of advancing civilisation, corresponds with the wild aspect
of their country, and, at least in the more remote districts, still retains
many of those peculiar features described by ancient writers. Their in-
satiable thirst for revenge (vendetta)^ formerly one of the «hief eauses
of the depopulation of the island, has never been thoroughly eradicated.
It exists, however, only among the Corsieans themselves, and the stranger
visiting the island is as safe as in any part of Europe. The Corsican
woman is much more industrious than her husband, the latter looking
with disdain on the Italians from Lucca who do most of the field-work.
For the rest the Corsicaos are distinguished by bravery, love of free-
dom, simplicity of manners, and hospitality, virtues which usually char-
acterise a vigorous and primitive race. Their ballads, and especially their
dirges (vociri)^ are full of poetical pathos. Native hospitality, which
should always be accepted when offered , is entirely gratuitous, though
sometimes irksome.
The situation and climate of the island are Italian, as was also its
history down to the year 1768. Since the beginning of the present cen-
tury its union with France has been still more closely cemented by its
connection with the family of Napoleon. It now forms the 86th depart-
ment, the capital of which is Ajaccio, and is divided into 5 arrondisse-
ments: Ajaccio, Bastia, Galvi, Corte., and Sartene. An Italian dialect is
still the language of the natives, but French is used for all official pur-
poses and is spoken by the educated classes.
The great attractions of Corsica are its beautiful scenery and its inter-
esting historical associations, for it can boast of no antiqnities or trea-
sures of art. A visit to the island is now easily accomplished. Spring
is considered the most favourable season. A week*s stay will enable the
ordinary traveller to become acquainted with Ajaccio, Corte (ascent of
Monte Rotondo), and Bastia. Those who desire a more thorough insight
into the resources of the country and the character of the natives will
HMwy. CORSICA. 499
eneounter some inconveniences., and should endeavour to obtain intro-
ductions to inhabitants of the island. The seashore is still ravaged by
malarial fever in summer in spite of the large plantations of eucalyptus.
The Hotels and Inns are not dear, but are sometimes deficient iu
comfort and cleanliness. It is usually advisable to order meals in ad-
vance by telegraph, and even to engage rooms in this way if several are
required at once. — The Pnblic Conveyances^ which usually ply by night,
are also wanting in comfort and cleanliness, but most travellers will find
the Railways amply sufficient for their purposes. Hired Carriages are dear
(about SO fr. per day) but are generally constructed to hold 8-4 persons.
The usual and the most convenient mode of locomotion is on Horses or
Mules^ for which 3-10 fr. a day are charged, including an attendant. Walking
for pleasure is as great a marvel to the Corsicans as to the Italians.
Exact bargains should in all eases be made by the hirer , and the ser-
vicer of middlemen rejected.
Corsica, like its sister-island Sardinia, which was peopled by the same
Iberian race, never attained to a high degree of civilisation in ancient times.
The whole island is depicted as having been a v\ ild and impenetrable forest,
of very evil reputation. Its possession was nevertheless keenly contested
by the great naval powers of ancient times. The Phoceeans, banished
from Asia by the Persians, founded the town of Alalia (afterwards Aleria)
on the E. coast, at the mouth of the Tavignano, in B. C. 556. After a great
naval battle in 536, however, they were compelled by the allied Etrus-
cans and Carthaginians to abandon their settlement and migrate to Italy,
where they founded the town Elea or Velia, in Lucania. The island then
became subject to the Etruscans, and subsequently to the Carthaginians.
The Romans wrested it from the latter in 238, but took 80 years to reduce
it to subjection. Under Marius and Sulla the colonies of Aleria and Mariana
were established on the E- coast, but both were subsequently destroyed.
The island was frequently used as a place of banishment, as in the case
of the philosopher Seneca, who spent eight years here during the reign
of the Emp. Claudius. His account of the country and its inhabitants
is by no means flattering, and the Corsicans sometimes declare that
'Seneca era un birbone\ The following lines written by him are to this
day partially true:
^Prima est ul«i8ci lex, altera vivere raptu,
Tertia mentiri, quarta negare deos .
Strabo describes the Corsicans as vindictive and untamable , while
Diodorus praides their honesty.
After the fall of the Western Empire Corsica frequently changed mas-
ters: the Vandals, Byzantines, Ostrogoths, Franks, and Saracens rapidly
succeeded each other in its possession. In 1070 the Pisans, and in 1348
the Genoese obtained the supremacy, which the latter retained till the
18th century. Their oppressive sway, however, gave rise to a long series
of conspiracies and insurrections, in many of which a number of remark-
able characters and bold adventurers distinguished themselves. esp^c^Uy
Arrigo della Kocca, Vlncent^Uo d'l^tria, §ijd G^ampplo d^ Lecf), in the
14th and 15th cent., and Benuccio d3Ufl' Rpcc^ i^nu 3ampier6 di Bastelica
(killed on 17th Jan., 1567) in the 16th century. At length, in 1739, the
universal disafiection to Genoa began to assume a more serious aspect,
notwithstanding the efforts made by the Republic to stifle it with the
aid of German auxiliaries. The last of a long succession of adventurers
was a Baron Theodore Keuhof , son of a Westphalian nobleman , who
landed on 12th March, 1736, at Aleria, near the mouth of the Tavignano,
attended by a number of followers, and provided with warlike equipments.
He was shortly afterwards proclaimed King of Corsica, under the title of
Theodore I., but his success was short-lived, and he was soon compelled
to quit the island, for the Genoese were assisted by the French. Theodore
returned twice subsequently to Corsica, but was ultimately compelled
to seek an asylum in London, where he died in obscurity in 1756.
Meanwhile the Corsicans , under the command (from 1755) of the heroic
PasQuale Paoli (born in 1724 at Stretta, a village among the mountains to
32*
500 VI. Route 76. AJACCIO. CorHca.
i
the S.W. of Bastia^ died in London in 1807), fought so sueeessfiiUy againat
the Genoese, that the latter lost the whole island with the exception of •
Bastia. By the Treaty of Versailles in 1768 Genoa ceded Corsica to tho .
French, who, however, were still strenuously opposed by Paoli and other
leaders, and were unable thoroughly to assert their supremacy until 1774.-
After the French K evolution Paoli returned from England to Corsica, ^^
after an exile of 20 years, and became president of the island. Internal -^
dissensions, however, again springing up, the English were invited by ^^
Paoli to his aid, and in 1794 under Hood, conquered the island. In 1796 ■
they were compelled to abandon their conquest, and since that period ^
Corsica has belonged to France.
76. Ajaccio and its Environs.
Axritral. Some of the steamers land passengers at the quay, others
anchor outside. Landing in small boat, 1 fr., including luggage. Small
articles of luggage are examined by the customs-officers on board, the
others in the custom-house on shore. — The Railway Station lies to the
K. of the town (see p. 506), Vi ^- from the Place Bonaparte (p. fiOl) and
1 H. from the principal hotels.
Hotels. *OBAVD-HdTEL D^ Ajaccio st Covtikental (PI. a), Boul. Qrand-
vaU well situated, R. 4-8, B. li/a, d6,j. 31/2, D. 5, pens. 9-15, omn. IV2 fr. ; '
*H6t.-Pbn8. Suisse (PI. c), Boul. des Strangers, v-llfr. ; H6t.-Pb»8. dbs •
Etbanoers, Ck>ur8 Grandval 36, B. 3-6, B. I1/4, d^j. 3, D. 31/}, pens. 6-lOfr. -
Hot-Pbks. Villa Miot, near the sea, pens. 6-8 fr. (closed in summer).
These have all a southern aspect and are suitable for winter-residences
(see below). — Hotbl de Feahcb, in the Place Bonaparte or du Diamant,
adapted for transient guests, R. 3-5, B. I1/4, dej.o, D. incl. wine SVat
pens. 91/2-I2, omn. l-l^As fr. \ Grimaud, Hdx. Dauphim, in the Cours ITapo-
l€on. — Private Apartment* about 50 fr. per month, service extra.
CafAs. Roi JirOme^ in the Hot. de France ; Solferino^ NapoUon^ in the
Cours Napoleon. — GereU des Palmiers^ Boul. Grandval 20.
Post and Telegraph Office (PI. 13), Rue de la Prefecture, near theCk>urs
Napoleon (last collection of letters 1 hr. before the sailing of the mail-
packet). Letters posted in the letter-box at the quay are collected just
before the boat starts.
Bookseller: Peretti^ Ave. du Premier-0)n8ul. — Information given
gratis to strangers at the SocUU de la Station Hivernale^ Boul. Grandval.
Bankers: Botzo-Gosta^ Lanzi^ Boul. du Roi- Jerome ^ and at the hotels
Baths: Bains Publics^ Boul. du Roi-Jerdme (I/2 fr.)-, and at the hotels.
Cab per drive IV2 fr. , at night 3 fr. ; per hour 2 fr. ; per day about
20 fr. — Omnibus from the Cours Kapol^on to the Chapelle St. Joseph, 30e.
— Saddle Horses may be hired of Zucchini or P. Petiloni for 10 fr. per day
(3 hrs. 5 fr.) — Diligenees, see pp. 504, 506, and apply at the agents,
Cours Napoleon. Places should be taken in advance.
Steamers from Marseilles^ Nice^ Calviy and Isola Rossa^ see pp. 497, 512. To
Marseilles every Wed. at 3 p. m. and every Sun. at 4 p. m., also on every
alternate Tues. evening^ to Nice direct every Tues. in winter at 7-30 p. m. %
to Nice via Calvi or Jsola Rossa^ every Tues. at 1 p. m. in summer, with
41/0 hrs.' halt at the first port (p. 5l3) ; to Propriano (p. OC^) ever^ Sun.
at 10 a. m. and every Tues. at 8 a. m. The office of the Compagnie Fraissinel
is Boul. du Roi-J^r6me 1. — A small local steamer named ^Le Progr^sj
(agent, Lanzi, Boul. du Roi-Jerome) runs from Ajaccio to (1 hr.) Chiavari
daily at 7 a. m. (in winter when the weather permits ^ fares 75, 50 c.))
on Men., Wed., and Sat. it runs to (3 hrs.) Propriano^ starting at nooq
(fare 4 fr., there and back 7 fr.). Enquiries should be made on the spot4
English Churoh (PI. 2;i7oiy Trinity), Boul. Grandval; services «t 10.30
and 2.30. — British Consul, William J. Holmes, Esq. J
(nimate. Ajaccio is admirably sheltered by lofty hills on the In
and S.E., but it is somewhat exposed on the S.W., W., and ll.W. Thi
mean winter-temperature (63» Fahr.) is about 3° Fahr. higher than that of
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I Corsica, AJACCIO. VI. Rotite 76, 501
iRiviera. The heat is somewhat tempered by the humidity of the atmo-
|ere. The number of rainy days is eomparatively small (averaging
in the six winter-months), but a heavy dew falls at night. For those
beted with pulmonary complaints Ajaceio offers one great advantage
its complete immunity from dust, owing to the hard granitic soil.
AjacHo, with 20,600 Inhab., was founded by the Genoese in
82, and made the capital of the island in 1811 by Napoleon, at
I request of his mother Letitia. It is most beautifully situated in
I extensive bay , which stretches N. to the Punta delta Paratn,
fi the Isole Sanguinarie, and S. to the Capo di Muro, whilst the
i&kground is formed by imposing mountains, often covered with a
bwy mantle until late in the summer. The town presents a some-
lat deserted aspect, although great improvements have taken place
late years.
The Harbour lies to the E. of the town, the oldest part of which,
ith the citadel, occupies a tongue of land to the S. of it. Fine view
l^m the harbour of the gulf and the mountains. The strangers'
larter is in the new town, to the S.W.
The broad Place des Palmiers, adorned wifh palms and planes
id a fountain surmounted by a marble statue of Napoleon I. as First
>nsul , by Laboureur, separates the old part of the town from the
ftarters to the N. To the right, at the point where the Boulevard
\/t Roi- Jerome diverges, is situated the Hotel de Ville (PI. 6), con-
ining a small museum, illustrative of the history of the Buonaparte
ttnily and including various portraits, pictures, busts, and statues,
be Rue Fesch (p. 502) begins a little farther on to the right; to
le left is the Rue Napolf^on, leading to the Buonaparte mansion
jee below). Adjoining the latter street is a figure of ^otre Dame
e la MUericorde^ tutelar of the town (fete on March 17-19th).
The Avenue du Premier-Consul leads from the Place des Palmiers
0 the Place Bonaparte, or Place du Diamant^ adorned with an eques-
rian Statue of the Emperor with his four brothers, in bronze, by
Barye, erected in 1865. A military band plays here on Sun. at 3 p. m.
in winter and in the evening in summer. To the right stands the Mil-
itary Hospital, to the left the Great Seminary. Beyond the Place the
line of the Avenue du Premier-Consul is continued by the Boule-
vard Orandval, which leads through the new quarter, with the
principal hotels, the Episcopal Palace (PI. 9), the Chdteau Conti,
the Anglican Church (PI. 2), etc., to the Place du Casone (p. 503).
The Rue Bonaparte, to the £. of the Place du Diamant, and the
Rue du College, the second turning on the left in the old town, lead
to the Cathedral (PI. 1), a domed church in the Italian style, dating
jfrom 1592-1603.
I The Rue St. Charles leads thence to the left to the small Place
\Letizia, containing the Maison de Napoleon (PI. 8), with the in-
Iscription: 'Napoleon est nedans cette maison le 15 Aout 1769* (adm.
Dn applic-tion to the concierji^e, who lives opposite; fee 1 fr.). The
^
!
602 VL R(mte 78. AJACCIO. CorHca.
house, which was plundered in 1793 by the partizans of Paoli (see
below), contains a few reminiscences of the great warrior.
The family of Buonaparte appears to have emigrated in the i6th cent.
I'rom Sarzana in Tuseany, perhaps with the powerful Malaspinas, to Corsica.
Messire Francesco Buonaparte^ the first member of the family who resided
in Corsica, died at Ajaceio in 1567. Kapoleon^s father, Carlo Maria Buona-
parte, born at Ajaceio, 29th March, 1746, was educated at a school founded
by Paoli at Corte, and afterwards studied law at Pisa. He then became an
advocate at Ajaceio, where he enjoyed considerable popularity, but was
soon appointed by Paoli his secretary at Corte. After the disastrous battle
of Ponte Kuovo, 9th May, 1769, in consequence of which Corsica lost its
independence to France, Carlo fled with his young wife Letitia Ramolino
to the Monte Rotondo. He shortly afterwards returned to Ajaceio, where
the French General Marbeuf, the conqueror of Corsica, accorded him
protection, and where, about two months later, Napoleon was born. In
1777 Carlo was appointed deputy of the nobility for Corsica, and travelled
via Florence to Paris. He died at Montpellier in February, 1785. Napoleon,
then 16 years of age, having quitted the school at Brienne two years pre-
viously, was studying at the Ecole Militaire at Paris.
After the storming of the Bastille in 1789 and the great subsequent
crisis, Napoleon with his elder brother Joseph warmly espoused the pop-
ular cause at Ajaceio. He then repaired to Marseilles to welcome Paoli on
his return from exile, and the latter predicted on this occasion that a great
destiny was in store for the youth. In 1791 Napoleon obtained the com-
mand of the newly-constituted Corsican battalions, and in this capacity
practically began his military career. In 1799, Paoli, dissatisfied with
the proceedings of Napoleon, sent him to San Bonifacio, to join the expe-
dition against Sardinia. This, however, proved an utter failure, and on
22nd January, 1793, Napoleon narrowly escaped being slain by insurgents.
Shortly afterwards he broke off his connection with Paoli and was com-
pelled to quit Corsica with his family. During the zenith of his power
the Emperor evinced little partiality for his native island, which he vis-
ited for the last time on 29th September, 1799, on his return from Egypt.
During his exile in the island of St. Helena, however, his thoughts appear
frequently to have reverted to Corsica. ^What reminiscences Corsica has
left to me!" he was heard to exclaim: ^I still think with pleasure of its
mountains and its beautiful scenery^ I still remember the fragrance which
it exhales.' Antommarchi, Napoleon's physician in St. Helena, and the
priest Vignale, who performed the last offices of religion, were Corsieans,
and shared the fate of their illustrious compatriot.
The Rue St. Charles ends in the Rue Napoleon , which leads to
the left to the Place des Palmiers. In the latter street is situated the
modest palace of the Pozzo di Borgo, one of the most distinguished
Corsican families.
Carlo Andrea Pozzo di Borgo^ born on 8th March, 1788, an early friend
of Napoleon, a democrat and adherent of Paoli, afterwards became the
Emperor's bitterest enemy. He subsequently became a Russian counsellor
uf state, and in 18Q2 was created a count and appointed ambassador, in
which capacity he indefatigably devoted his energies to opposing his am-
bitious countryman. He died at Paris in 1842.
Near the middle of the Rue Fesch, on the right, beyond the Place
des Palmiers, is the Palais Fesch (PI. 1 1), with the college of that
name, which contains a library (40,000 vols.), casts, a cabinet of
Corsican minerals, and a large collection of pictures (900, most of
them copies; open on Sun. & Thurs., 11-4, to strangers on other days
also). The court contains a bronze statue of Cardinal Fesch, half- ^
brother of Napoleon's mother, by whom the collection was be-
queathed to the town. In the right wing of the palace is the Cha"
Corsica, AJACCIO. VL Route 76, 503
p^e Fetch (open daily, 8-9 a. m.^ and also on Thurs. & Sun., 12-4),
built in 1855, containing the tombs of Letitia Ramolino , mother
of Napoleon Cmater regum'; d. at Rome in 1836), and of Cardinal
Fesch (d. at Rome in 1839).
At the end of the Rue Fesch is the Cours Napoleon, with its
alleys of orange-trees. To the right is the fine Statue of General
Abhatucci, a Oorsican who feU in 1796, whilst defending the fortress
of Huningen, hy Vital Duhray. In a short street opposite the statue
is the Palais de Justice (PL 10). In the other portion of the Cours,
as we return towards the Place du Diamant, are the church of St.
Rack (PI. 4), the Villa Sebastiani (PL 7), with a fine park (gratuity),
the Theatre (PL 16), and the Prefecture (PL 13).
One of the pleasantest promenades in Ajacclo is the * Boulevard
Lantivy, or quay skirting the S. part of the town, which affords
fine views and is much frequented of an afternoon. To the right,
beyond the bishop's palace (p. 501), diverges theBoul. des Etrangers,
running parallel with the Boul. Grand val. Farther on are the
Hospice Eugenie, the Place Miot, the old Fort Miot {Maestrello
Battery; now a school), and the Normal School,
Environs of Ajacclo.
One of the most heautiful walks or drives (carr. 3 fr.)near Ajaccio
is afforded hy the *Salario Boad (Route du Salario), which begins at
the Place du Casone (p. 501) and gradually ascends the olive-clad
slopes of the Monte Salario to the (2V2 M.) spring of Salario, com-
manding charming views of the town, the harbour, the gulf, and the
mountains. — About ^/^ M. from the town, near the Cappella Pe-
raldi, is the entrance (to the left) to the sheltered Promenade des
Pins, also affording beautiful views.
The top of the Monte Salario (965 ft.), 30 min. from the above-men-
tioned fountain, eommands an extensive view, from the Capo Tafonato to
Monte Benoso. The descent may be made to the Promenade des Pins
(11/4 hr.) or, to the W., by the Monte Cacalo (to Ajaccio 11/4-1^/2 hr.).
The *Parata Boad^ forming a prolongation of the Boul. Lantivy
(see above) , although destitute of shade, also affords a charming
promenade, skirting the sea for 8 M. (carr. in i^/^ hr., 10 fr.). The
gardens and maquis here contain numerous family burial-places and
chapels. Ahout ^/^ M. from the town is the Cappella del Oreci, dating
from 1632, and 1 M. farther on is the Town Cemetery. The (2V2 M.)
chalet of Barbicaja, noted for its orange - trees, is the property of
Lady Alexander. Beyond the (3V2 M*) chalet of Scudo (Count Pozzo
di Borgo), with its beautiful garden, there is a small restaurant.
The road then leads through a deserted district, passing (5 M.)
Vignola. The *Torre de la Parata, an old Genoese stronghold
(ca. 150 ft.), stands on a rock connected with the mainland by a
'' narrow causeway. Fine sea-view, particularly in rough weather.
The Itole Sanguinarie , or Itet Sanguinaires , opposite La Parata , are
not very interesting. A boat (ordered in advance) may be taken to the
504 VL Route 76, AJACCIO. Corsica.
CV4 ^r.) largest island from the Torre della Parata; a boat from Ajaeefo
direct takes 3 hrs. (not recommended).
The •Pn&ta di Pozso di Borgo C2d60ft.), to the N.W. of Ajaccio,
is a favourite point for excursions. The road to it (7 Vz ^> '? horse 5,
carr. 10-15 fr.) coincides at first with the road to Bastis and then
ascends to the left. At (3 M.) the Colle di Faceia di Campo we
again tnm to the left, and farther on we pass a chapel and the Torri
de' Mofiticchi, the remains of a ch&teau of the 14th century. The
Toad ends at (7^2^*) the Castello della Punta (2165 ft.), construc-
ted by the Counts Pozzo dl Borgo from the remains of the Tuileries
at Paris, in imitation of the central pavilion of that palace.
The chateau (shown on application ; free) contains two Renaissance
chimney-pieces, tapestry, pictures by Pordenone, Giulio Romano, Pado-
vanino, and Salvator Rosa, and portraits of Napoleon by David (18i5) and
of C. A. Pozzo di Borgo (p. 5C8) by Gerard. — Refreshments may be
obtained from the custodian.
The *View from the terrace of the eh&teau is fine, but a much more
extensive prospect is epjoyed by ascending for 1/2 hr. more (footpath)
to the top of the mountain. To the K.E. are the mountains of Corsica;
to the N., the gulfs of Lava and Sagone-, to the S., Ajaccio and its gulf;
to the S.W., the Isole Sanguinarie. To the W. the Monte Pozzo di Borgu
is prolonged by the Lisa (2690 ft.)
On the S. slope of Monte Pozzo di Borgo is the PenitenUary of QtuUV-
luccio (580 ft.)<i occupied by Arab prisoners. It is reached from Ajaccio
direct in V4 J^r. or via the Penitentiary of SanV Antonio in ll/j hr.
To CaurOy 12^2 M. to the £. by the Sartene and Bonifacio road
(p. 506), a charming excursion (carr. 15-20 fr.).
The excursion to the Penitentiary of Chiovari (470 ft.), which lies
2 M. from the sea (omn.; 1 M. by short-cuts), on the S. side of the
Gulf of Ajaccio, is made by the steamer mentioned at p. 500. Visit-
ors with an authorisation are admitted in the morning to inspect
this establishment, which chiefly contains Algerian convicts. Lunch-
eon may be obtained at the canteen (2 fr.).
Another interesting trip may be made by taking the first train to
Vizzavona (p. 509), ascending thence to (8/4 hr.) the *CoUe di Vittanova
(p. 509), descending to (3 hrs.) Boeognano (p. 509), and returning to Ajaceiu
by the evening- train.
From A^jaccio to Calcatoggio^ Vieo y and Evisa^ and to the C<danche di
Pianay see R. 77; to Bonifacio ^ see R. 78; to Bastiay see R. 79; to Ouitera
and Zieavoy see p. 507; to (kUdanicday see p. 606.
77. From Ajaocio to Evisa yi& Vico and back yi& Porto.
I. From Ajaccio to Evisa vi& Vico.
To Vieoy 32 M., Diligbkcb daily in 8 hrs. (4, 3 fr.). — From Vico to
Evisa, lil/aM., carr. II fr., horse 6-8 fr. — This very fine excursion is, of
course, most pleasantly made by faired carriage all the way (65-70 fir.).
The first part of it takes 3 days, including a visit to the forest of Aitone.
Aj€u:cio, p. 500. We follow the Bastia road (see above) as far as
(4 M.) Mezzavia, where we leave it on the right, and, passing undpt *
the aqueduct of Ajaccio, ascend towards the N. (left). — 7ViM.
Colle di TAstincone (780 ft.). — Beyond (12M.) Colle di8eba»tiano
CorHea. VICO. VL Route 77. 505
(1360 ft.; inn) we have a beautiful •View of the Gulf of Sagone.
— 13^/2 M. La Marignaninca (inn), 74 M. from Calcatoggio (Rosa
Paoli's Inn), which lies on a hill (1075 ft) to the right.
We descend hence to the mouth of the Liamonej in a fertile
but unhealthy plain on the beautiful Qulf of Sagone. To the light
rises the Genoese tower of Capigliolo.
23 M. Sagone (two Inns)^ a small seaport, once the seat of a
bishop. Road to Porto, see p. 506.
The Yico road leads hence to the N. E., over the (31 M.) Colle di
SanV Antonio di Vico (1600 ft. ; fine view) , where the road to
Evisa (see below) diverges to the left.
32 M. Vico (1310 ft.; Hot. des Oourmets; Hot. de France), a
prettily situated old town, about Va^* ^ ^^® ^* ^^ which is the
Convent of St. Francis, with a fine view.
A diligence (2., l^A fr.) plies hence during the season to (7 M .) Bagni
di Guagno (1430 ft. \ Hotel for patients only) , one of the chief watering-
places in Corsica, with thermal sulphur-springs. The village of Quagno
(inn) lies 3l/s M. to the B. To the E.K.B. rises the MonU Rotondo (p. 510).
We retrace our steps from Vico to the Colle di Sant' Antonio
(1 M. ; see above), and ascend a steep road to the N. — 34 M. Cappella
San Roeco. — 37 M. GoUe di Sevi (3585 ft. ; beautiful view), whence
the road winds down through fine forests to (41 M.) Cristinacce.
43V2 M. Bvisa (2760ft.; *Hdt.Oigli) is grandly situated near a
magnificent forest of chestnuts and in full view of the mountains.
The pine-forest of A'ltone, one of the finest in Corsica, lies 3 M. to
the N.E. of the village. An excursion should be made as far as the (7i/2 M.)
CoUe di Vergio (4800 ft.; carr. 13 fr., horse 5 fr.).
From Evisa to Cobte, 40 M. , diligence only from Calacuccia (see
below) to Corte. The road traverses the forest of Aitone and beyond the
Golle di Vergio (see above) also the forest of Vaidoniello (huge trees) and
the valley of the Oolo with the pastures oiNiolo. — 20i/a M. AJbertacce (inn).
— 231/a M. Calacuccia (8780 ft.; Hot. Verdoni), whence the fatiguing ascent
of Monte Ointo (8890 ft. ; fine view) may be made in 71/2 hrs. , with guide.
— Beyond Calacuccia the road traverses the *8cala di Santa Regina^ the
fine gorge of the Golo, to the (28l/a M.) Ponte di Santa Regina. Near (33 M.)
Cattirla a road diverges to the left to the station of Franeardo (p. oiO). —
361 /a M. Col d'Ominanda (2155 ft.). — 40 M. Corte (p. 509).
II. From Evisa to Ajacoio yi& Porto.
65 M. — To Porto ^ I31/2 M., carr. about 15, horse 6-8 fr. (no public
conveyance). — From Porto travellers should push on the same day to
(71/a M.) PianOy in order to visit the Calanche at leisure. From Plana to
Ajaedo y 44 H., Diligbvcb daily in 10 hrs.
The road from Evisa to Porto zigzags down the Oorgie di Porto,
crosses the (2V2 M.) Bridge of Tavolella (2005 ft. ; view), and sliirts
the rocky amphitheatre known as the *Spelunca. The (7 M.) * Colle
di Capicciolo (1770 ft.) is the most interesting part of the route.
— IOV2 M. Bridge of Cario (600 ft.), in a valley enclosed by the
..'T.ipo alia Polmonaccia (5626 ft. ; left), the Capo d'Orto (4285 ft.;
right), and other granite mountains. About 1 V4 M. before reaching
Porto we pass (on the left) the direct road to Plana (p. 506) and
606 VL Rmite 77. PORTO. Corsica.
Ajaccio. Our road crosses the stream and descends, with a fine view
of the *Qulf of Porto.
I3V2 M. Porto (VersinVs and PerrettCs Inns) is a small seaport,
which exports timber from the adjacent forests. At the harbour is
an old Genoese watch-tower.
Fbom Porto to Galvi, 481/2 M., a hlgbly interesting roate, especially
in the opposite direction (no public conveyance). The road ascends Arom
Porto (fine retrospect) through a small rocky gorge. — 8 M. ParUnello
(inn), a prettily situated hamlet. The lonely road next traverses an un-
dulating and picturesque district. — From the (18 M.) *C9lle deUa Grace
(1390 ft.) we enjoy a fine view of the Cfulf of Porto behind and the Onlf
of Oirolata in front. The view from the (301/2 M.) *Colle di Parma or Bocca
Parmarella is little inferior. The road descends towards the Oulf of
Oaleria and traverses the valley of the Fango. — Oalerxa (Pianaeci^s Inn),
a small seaport, lies 8 H. to the left of the road. — Beyond (SSi/s M.)
Ponte del Fango the road becomes still more lonely , though always pic-
turesque. — 48I/2 M. Calvi (p. 512).
The road recrosses the stream of Porto and skirts the other side
of the gulf, ascending steeply, with splendid ♦Views. About 6 M .
beyond Porto begin the curious rocks known as the *Oalaaehe
di Piana, which attain a height of 1300 ft. and are specially
fine at sunset. The road traverses these for about a mile.
21 M. Plana (1435 ft.; Hdt. des Calanehfs, unpretending), a vil-
lage splendidly situated about V4^- ^^^ ^^^ Oalanche. — The road
now quits the coast and crosses two cols commanidng fine views,
extending on the N.E. to the singular Capo Tafonato. We again
approach the sea at the wide Oulf of Sagone.
33 M. Cargese {Hdtel Continental), prettily situated on the N.
side of the Gulf, has a population descended in part from Greek
refugees of 1676. The Greek and Latin churches stand opposite
each other. — The road undulates along the coast, and at —
42 M. Sagone joins the road already traversed on the route from
Ajaccio (p. 505).
78. From Ajaccio to Bonifacio.
87 M. Public Couvbtakcbs daily. To (53 M .) Sartene^ Diligekce daily
at 10.15a.m., in 13l/2hrs. (fare 81/2, coup6 10l/2fr.)i thence to(34M.) Boni-
facio by another vehicle in 6 hrs. (5 or 7 fr.), starting at 11.30 a. m. On
the return the diligences leave Bonifacio at 11.30 p. m. (reaching Sartene
in 9 hrs.) and Sartene at 3.30 p. m. Another conveyance runs from Ajaccio
to Santa Maria SicM^ starting at 3.30 p. m. (returning 5 a. m. ^ fare 2l/a fr.).
— On Sun. a steamer of the Fraissinet Co. leaves Ajaccio for (3 hrs.)
Propriano (fares 6, 5 fr. 5 halt of 2 hrs.), going on once a fortnight to
(6V2-81/2 hrs.) Bonifacio (fares 10 or 8 fr. ; returning on Mon. at 4 p. m.).
Ajaccio, see p. 500. The road runs for the most part through
the interior of the island. After skirting the harbour side by side
with the railway (p. 608), it ascends a little and then re-descends
into the valley of the Oravone (p. 508). Here it crosses the rail-
way at the station of Campo di Loro and then the river, which
forms two arms enclosing the marshy and malarious plain of Cctmpo
di Loro or Campo deW Qro, Farther on we cross the PruneUo,
Corsica. SABTENE. Vl. Route 78. 507
an affluent of the Gravone, by the (7 M.) Ponte di Pisdntella (two
poor inns ; good wine). The road then runs to the £. through the
valley of the Mutoltggio. The views are flue, especially beyond
(11 M.) Barracone, — I2V2 M. Cauro (1230 ft.; Hot. de France,
plain), a village surrounded by magnificent mountains.
Fbom Cauro TO Bastblica, 13 H.,, diligence thrice a week at Ip.m.^ in
3 hrs. — Bastelica (2600 ft. ; two hotels) , a prettily situated place with
3340 inhab., was the birthplace of Sampiero^ the patriotic foe of the Gen-
oese, who caused him to be assassinated in 1567. A bronze statue, by
Vital Dubray, was erected to his memory in 1890. The easy ascent of the
MonU Renoso (7730 ft. ^ 5hrs., with guide), to the S. of ih^ Golle di Vizza-
vona^ may be made in summer ftrom Bastelica.
i 1 ITVs M. Colle di San Oiorgiu (2500 ft.). The view from the col
is limited, but that f^om a heigh. 10 min. to the E. is very exten-
sive. The road descends (view). — At (20 M.) Molino d'Apa the
road to Zicavo diverges to the left. The Sartene diligence follows
this road as far as (1^4 M.) Santa Maria Sich^ (Hdtel Continental),
a small place with a ruined ch&teau, once the property of Sam-
piero (see above), and then returns to the main road.
From Sakta Maria Sich^ to Zicavo, Hi/q M., diligence daily in 5hrs.
(fare 2^/^ fr. ; 5 fr. from Ajacoio). -~ The road passes several villages and
crosses the (7 M.j ColU di Oranace (3750 ft.). — 13i/s M. Bagni di Gnitera
(1436 ft. : Hotel at the Etablissement), on the right bank of the Taravo. —
171/2 M. Zioavo (3295 ft. ; *lI6t. Lecmdri)^ with 1644 inhab., charmingly situated.
The Konte Inoudine (7010 ft.) may be ascended hence in 5-6 hrs.
with guide (bridle-path to within V2 br. of the top). About halfway
there are some shepherds' huts, where the traveller may spend the night,
if he wishes to see the sunrise from the summit. The *View is the finest
in (Corsica. Descent in 41/2 hrs.
From Zicavo we may return by the picturesque route through the
interior of the island, which leads to the 8. to (371/s M.) Sartene (see
below) and to the N. to (50 M.) Corte (p. 509 ^ no public conveyance),
reaching the railway at (36 M.) Vivario (p. 509).
21 M. Oroeseto-Prugna (1445 ft. ; inn). The road descends to
the Taravo , and re-ascends after crossing the stream. — 30 M.
PetretO'BicehiBano (1350 ft.; inn), prettily situated ; 35^2 M. Ga-
salabriva; 36V2M. Colle or Boeca Celaccia (1910 ft.), with fine view.
To the S. is the gulf of Vallnco. — 39 M. Olmeto (1066 ft.; inn),
with 2100 inhabitants.
45 M. Propriano (•Hdt. Peretti) is a thriving little seaport (1900
inhab.) on the beautiful Gulf of Valinco. Steamers, see pp. 500, 506.
The road again quits the coast and ascends.
53 M. Sartene (980 ft. ; Fldt. de V Univers, unpretending but clean),
a picturesquely situated town with 6200 inhab. (view). — The road
now ascends and descends through a fertile district, which, how-
ever, is scourged In summer by drought and malaria. — Shortly be-
fore reaching (67 M.) Roccapina we obtain an admirable view of
the Oulf of Roccapina and of the rock known from its shape as the
Lion of Roccapina, — 73 M. Pianottoli (inn). Just beyond the Colle
d'Arbia (420 ft.), 4Vj M, from Bonifacio , we command a fine view
of that town.
508 VI. Route 78. BONIFACIO. Corsica.
87 M. BonilMio {H6U de France or Costa, mediocre ; Hdt, des
Voyageurs), an ancient town and fortress (3900 inhab.), is pictur-
esquely situated on a prominent and lofty rock. It was founded
In the 9tli cent, by tbeTuscan cbieftain Bonifacio, after a naval vic-
tory over tbe Saracens. It subsequently came into the possession of
tbe Pisans, tben into that of tbe Genoese, by whom it was treated
with marked favour. In return for this partiality Bonifacio remained
inviolably faithful to Genoa, as was proved in 1420 by its memorable
defence against Alphonso I. of Aragon.
From the harbour, in the bay at the foot of the promontory bearing
the citadel, we ascend to the town either by a flight of steps or by
the street at the end of the quay. The cathedral of Santa Maria
Maggiore, in the centre of the town , is in the Pisan style. Farther
on is the old Citadel. Here, to the left, is the Torrione, a massive
tower, 78 ft. high, erected by the Marquis Bonifacio in 828. At its
foot is the King ofAragon^s Staircase, descending to the sea. It coi.-
sists of 217 steps cut in the rock during the siege of 1420, without
the knowledge of the besieged. To the right rises St. DominiCf
a handsome Gothic church built by the Templars; the unfinished
tower is in the Pisan style. Near the large barracks and the residence
of the commandant is a Well 210ft. deep and 10ft. in diameter,
excavated in 1855-66, with a spiral stairway of 337 steps. To the
right are the church of Santa Maria Maddalena, etc. — The pro-
montory, near the end of which are the churches of S^ Francis and
St. Anthony, commands a charming view of the Straits of Bonifacio
and of Sardinia (8 M> distant), with the village of Longo Sardo and
its lighthouse opposite and the Isola della Maddalena to the left.
On the other side of the harbour is the Ptmta delta Madonetta,
behind which are some remarkable *Orottoe$ ('ie camere') , which
visitors explore by boat in calm weather and with the wind from the
£. (4-5 fr. for one or more persons; 2-3 fr. if the Dragonetta only
is visited). The best light- effects are seen in the afternoon. The
Dragonetta, the most beautiful cave, near the Punta di Dragonato,
is not unlike the celebrated Blue Grotto at Capri.
From Bonifacio to Bastia^ see p. 514. Steamer to AJaccio^ see p. 506.
79. From Ajaccio to Bastia.
98 M. Railway (narrow-gauge) in 5V8-'^Vs hrs. (fares 17 fr. 80, 13 fr.
35, 9 fr. 75 c). The section between Bocognano and Vivario will repay
driving or even walking.
Ajaccio, see p. 500. As the train quits the station, we enjoy a
beautiful view of the Punta di Pozzo di Borgo (left) and the giilf
and town (right). The train runs between hedges of eucalyptus and
cactus, threads a tunnel, and traverses the Campo di Loro (p. 506),
which 16 watered by the Oravone. H*/^ M. Campo di Loro. — 5'/? M.
Caldaniecia, with warm sulphur-springs, in a desolate district. —
Corsica, COKTE. VL Route 79. 509
8 M. Mesaana-Sarrola (184 ft.). The Gravone is crossed ; the sceu>
ery improves. ISVjM. Carbuccia; 19 M. Ucciani (tunnel); 21 M.
Tavera. — 25 M. Bocognano (2205 ft.; Hot. de I'Univers), a large
village surrounded by chestnut-woods, in a magnificent situation.
From Bocognano the highroad ascends the shadeless valley of the
Gravone to the (9 M.) Oolle di Yizzavona or La Foce (3810 ft. ; H6UI du
Monte cTOro^ a sununer ^dependanee' of the Hdt. Miot at Ajaccio, pens.
7-8 fr.) ^ in a mountainous and wooded district, 2 M. above Vizzavona
(8/4 hr- by road, or 1/2 i*'- by a shady footpath). The road descends, high
above the valley of the Vecchio (see below) and through the extensive
*Forest of Yizzavona (firs and magnificent beeches), to Vivario (see below).
The Belvedere (4765 ft.), 3/4 br. from the pass, commands a good view
of the Monte d*Oro. — The Monte d'Oro (7850 ft.; 51/2 brs., with guide)
is ascended from La Foce without serious difficulty in summer. — The
Monie Renoso (7730 ft.) is best climbed from Bastellea (p. 507).
Beyond Bocognano the valley of the Gravone is quitted by means
of a tunnel, 2^/2 M. long, under the Colle di Vizzavona (see above).
31 V2 M. yizzavona (2970 ft.; Buffet; ^Qrand-Hdtel Vizzavona^
finely situated on the edge of the wood, 3 min. above the station,
pens. 10 fr.), 8/4 hr. below the pass, to the N.E. Fine walks in the
vicinity.
The railway now descends the valley of the Vecchio^ an affluent
of the Tavignano. 34 M. Tattone (2630 ft.). To the left rises the
Monte Rotondo (p. 510). A grand view of the gorge to the left is
obtained on emerging from the third of four tunnels passed through
here. — The line makes a wide curve to the right to —
39 M. Vivario or Qatti di Vivario (2120 ft.; Hdtel des Voya-
geurs, poor). Road to Zicavo, see p. 507. — We cross a viaduct,
240 ft. high, over the Vecchio. - 421/2 M. Vecchio (2886 ft.) ; 451/2 M.
Venaco; 471/2 M. Poggio - Riventoaa (1790 ft.). Numerous tunnels
and viaducts were necessary on this part of the railway.
52V2 M. Corte ( 1290 ft. ; Hdt. du Nord etdtV Europe ; Hdt. PaoH ;
Buffet, A^j. 21/2 fr.), an old town with 5000 inhab. , picturesquely
situated on the Tavignano. It is commanded by a lofty citadel,
which rendered it a keenly-contested point in the wars of former
centuries. The Place Paoli, the principal square, is embellished
with a bronze statue of the noble-minded patriot Paaquale Paoli
(p. 499), by Buguenin (1854). Gorte was the central point of Paoli's
democratic government. His study, with window-shutters lined with
cork, and the council- chambers are still shown at the Palazzo di
Corte* A university, a printing-office, and a newspaper were also
established here by Paoli in 1765. Marble- quarries are worked in
the vicinity. In another piazza farther to the N. rises a statue of
General Arrighi de Casanova, 'Due de Padoue' (born at Corte in
1779, d. at Paris in 1853), erected in 1868. An agreeable walk may
be taken past the citadel into the Valley of the Tavignano. Fine
views from the heights to the N. of the town. — To Evisa via Cala-
euccia, see p. 505.
An interesting excursion may be made into the romantic Valley of
the Be$t0niea^ with its cascades, chestnut-woods^ and lofty granite walls.
510 VLnaut€79. PONTE LEOCIA. CorHca.
Driving is practicable for about 4i/g M. At the head of the valley rises
the snow-elad Monte Rotondo.
The Monte Sotondo (8775 ft.) is most conveniently ascended from
Gorte. A guide (J. Valentini and Ordione of Corte^ 10 fr. per day), two
mules (about !^ fr.), wraps , and a supply of provisions are necessary.
The excursion is most easily accomplished in July or August, and gen-
erally occupies two days, though the actual ascent may be made in
7-8 hrs. and the descent in 6 hrs. At an early hour the traveller ascends the
valley of the Restonica (p. 509) to the (21/4 hrs.) Ponte di Timotzo (3590ft.);
farther on, the gorge of the Timozgo is ascended, where the brook forms
a series of pretty waterfalls, to the (IV4 hr.) shepherds^ huts of Titnozxo
(4920 ft.), where the mules are left. Thence in IV4 hr., across a wil-
derness of blocks of granite. , to the Fontana di Triggione (640O ft.). The
crater -shaped, snow-capped summit is visible hence; below it lies the
small and clear Lago del Monte Rotondo (6750 ft.), near which the night
is passed. Fields of snow, rocks, and debris must be laboriously trav-
ersed (2 hrs.) before the summit is attained. A magnificent 'Panorama is
here enjoyed. The spectator surveys the greater part of the island, which
resembles a vast rocky relief-map. Towards the S., however, the view
is obstructed by the massive Monte d'Oro. Violets and forget-me-nots
(here popularly called the ^marvellous flower of the mountains') grow
abundantly in the rocky clefts on the banks of the lake. The mufflone,
the wild horned sheep of Corsica, of a dark-brown colour, with silky. hair,
browses on these lofty summits. The descent may be made on the S.
side, via the Lago di Bettianella and the Colle di Manganella (5875 ft.), to
(6-6 hrs.) the baths of Guagno (p. 505).
Farther on , the railway traverses a bare and desert region. To
the left rises the Monte Rotondo. — 58 M. Sovi-Ha (1500 ft.); 60 M.
Omessa (1230 ft.). — 64 M. Francui do (870 ft). To Castirla, Cala-
cuccia, and Evlsa, see p. 506. — Beyond this point we follow the
left bank of the Qolo , which in snmmer is often almost dry.
69 M. Ponte Leccla(640 ft.; Buffet; Hot, Cymos) is the junction
of a line to (47 M.) Calvi (p. 512). The fine bridge was built by the
Genoese.
From P014TB Lbccia to Ojsbzza, 20 M. Diligence to Piedicroce^ 2 M.
on this side of Orezza, which may also be reached from Foielli-Oretta
on the Bastia and Ghisonaeeia railway (p. 514). On the way we pass (9H.)
Moromglia (hotel), the native place of the Paoli family (pp. 503, 609). -
11 H. CoUe del Prato (3195 ft. ; inn; fine view); ascent of Monte San Ptetro,
see p. 514. We descend into the region known as Castagniccia, or land of
chestnuts. — 18 M. Piedicroce d' Orezza (2085 ft.; Hot. d'Orez/a). — 191/2 M.
JStazzona^ about 8/4 M. from Orezza (p. 514).
The railway to Bastia descends the valley of the Golo, frequently
crossing the stream. 74 M. Ponte Nuovo, where Paoli was fliialiy
overcome by the French (p. 502). The country becomes more fertile.
79 M. Barchetta ; 8*2 M. PruneUl di Casamozza.
85 M. Casamozza (105 ft. ; buffet), the junction for the line to
Ghisonaeeia and Bonifacio (p. 514). The railway now leads direct
to the N. ; the coast-district is flat and full of lagoons.
In the extensive plain to the E. of Casamozza , at the mouth of the
Oolo, on the left bank, once lay Mariana^ a Roman colony founded by
Marius, the remains of which are visible on the shore, 3^4 M. from Casa-
mozza. The ruins of a beautiful chapel, and of a church called £a Cano-
nical a basilica of noble proportions in the Pisan style^ are situated here.
88 M. Borgo, — 92 M. Biguglia, the capital of the island under
the dominion of the Pisans and Genoese (to San FiorenzO) see
p. 512). ~ 94 M. FuHani; 97 M. Lupino. Then a long tunnel.
Corsica, BASTIA. VL Route 79. 511
96 M. Battia. — Hotels. Obavd - HdTBL Livobvievb, Rue Salvstor
Viale, eor. of Boul. Paoli, E. 3Vai »• l-l^/si d^j. 3, D- S-Si/a, omn. 1 fr. ;
Staffb or deFsakcs, Boul. Paoli. — Cafte. Franioii^ Place St. Nicolas^
Andreani^ Boul. Paoli. — Fritiah Yioe-Conaul: Mr. Arthur G.Southwell. —
U. 8. Conaular A^nt: Mr. Simon Damiani. — Post and Telegraph Offioe,
Rue Salvaior Viale.
Steamers to Marseilles (every Hon. & Thurs. at 1 p. m.)> Jffice (every
Frid. at 8 p. m.), and Leghorn (every Thurs. at 10 a. m. and Frid. at 10 p. m. ;
also on Hon. at 10 a. m. in winter and noon in summer). Office of the
Coinp. Fraissinet, RueduNouveau-Port^ Florio-RubattinoCo., Ave. Carnot).
Bastia, with 22,600 inhab., the busiest commeTcial place in the
island, and its capital down to 1811, was founded in 1380 by the
Genoese and defended by a strong castle (^bastion'). The cathedral
of San Oiovanni Battista contains several ancient tombs. In Santa
Croce are rich decorations in marble. The former College of the
Jesuits contains a library of 30,000 vols, and natural history col-
lections. The Place St. Nicolas, by the new harbour, is embellished
with a marble Statue of Napoleon by Bartolini. The old town with
the citadel rises above the more modern quarter situated near the
harbour. Beautiful walk along the coast towards the N., where a
number of easily attained heights afford a variety of fine views.
To the E., the islands of Capraia, Elba, and Pianosa (30 M. distant)
are visible.
To Itola Rossa and Calvi^ see R. 80; to RoffKano and Capo Corso^ see
R. 81 \ to BonifadOy see R, 82.
80. From Bastia to Isola Bossa and Calvi.
A. ▼!& Fonte Leooia.
75 M. Railway to (61 M.) Jsola Rossa in 41/4 hrs. (fares 11 fr. 20, 8fr. 30,
6fr. 10 c.) i to (75 M.) Calvi in 5-6I/4 hrs. (fares 13 fr. 66, 10 fr. 25, 7 fr. 45 c).
To (29 M.) Ponie Leccia, see above and p. 510. The line to Calvi
ascends the valley of the Asco to the N., then that of the Navaecia,
beyond which it again approaches the coast. — Several small sta-
tions and numerous tunnels are passed. We traverse the fertile
district of La Balagna before reaching (52 M.) Belgodere, near the
little town of that name (two hotels; omn. in 1 hr.). Silk-worms
are reared in large numbers in the vicinity.
61 M. IfolaBoMa or Ile-Rousse (* Hotel de V Europe), a small
seaport (1800 inhab.), founded in 1758 by Paoli, to whom a monu-
ment has been. erected in the large square opposite the church.
Its name is derived from three red cliffs rising from the sea in front
of the harbour. The environs are delightful; the view from the hill
of Santa Separata, surmounted by a deserted church, is finest by
evening-light.
Steamers ply hence to Marseilles (every alternate Wed. at 1.15 p. m.),
Nice (every alternate Tues. at 10.30 p. m.), and JJaccio (p. 500).
The railway then skirts the coast to (66 V2 M.) Algajola, a pic-
turesque old town on the coast, with granite-quarries in the vicinity.
512 VLBattttSO. SAN FIORENZO. Cornea.
During the Genoese period it was fortified, and formed the central
point of the Balagna (see p. 511). — The loftily situated village of
(72 M.) lAimio, with its orange -plantations and hedges of cactus,
commands a beautiful view of the valley.
75 M. Calvi (Hot. Christophe Colomb ; Hot. Maria Josef a),
a very ancient town of 2100 inhab. , was an important and forti-
fied place during the Genoese period, and noted for its faithful
adherence to the Republic. In 1794 it was bravely defended against
the English by the French commandant Casablanca. The harbour
is unsafe, but it is the nearest to the French coast. Calvi consists
of two parts. The modern Lower Town contains the Railway Station,
the Sous-Prefecture, and the Church. In the middle of the fortified
Upper Town, to the N. above the harbour, is the old Cathedral. A
number of captive Arabs are interned at Calvi. Charming view of
the bay, with the promontory of Bevellata, and of the rocky moun-
tains of Calenzana, to the S.£. of the town.
Steamers. ply hence to Marseilles (every second Wed. at noon), Nice
(every second Tues. at 10.30 p. m.), and Ajaceio (p. 500). — Road to Porto
(Ajaecio), see p. 506.
b. ▼!& San Fiorenio.
44 or 49 M. to Itola Rosta^ according as the direct road to San Fiorenzo
is taken or not ^ railway from Isola Bossa to (14M.) GdM. Diliobvcb to San
Fiorenzo y by the direct road, daily at 7.30 a.m., in 3i/s hrs. (returning at
11.46 a. m.) ^ to (13i/a M.) OleUa on the other road, every alternate day.
Bastia, see p. 511. The direct road to San Fiorenzo (14 M.)
ascends to the W., crosses the Serra Mountains (p. 513) by the
(6 M.) Colle di Teghime (1775 ft; splendid view of the sea to the
W. and £.) , and joins the road along the W. side of the peninsula
at (11 M.) the Colle di San Bernardino (p. 513).
The other road (19 M.), still more picturesque, diverges from
the Ajaccio road near the station of Biguglia (p. 510) , about 6 M.
to the S. of Bastia, and leads through the (10 M.) Lancone Defile
and over the (11 M.) Colle di San Stefano (1140 ft.; inn). Thence
it descends past (12 M.) Olmeta di Tuda and (ISVzM.) OUtta{hot»l)
to join the Isola Rossa road (see below) about ^/j M. from San Fiorenzo.
14 or 19 M. San Fiorenso or St. Florent (*Hdt. de V Europe) is a
small seaport, charmingly situated on the bay of its own name and
commanded by a citadel. — In the neighbourhood formerly lay the
mediaeval town of Nebbio , the ruined cathedral of which (Santa
Maria Assunta), of the 12th cent., stands on an eminence.
The road hence to (30 M.) Isola Rossa crosses the Aliso and
traverses the lonely Deserto degli Agriati, a mountainous pastoral
district. — 14 M. (from San Fiorenzo) Colle del Cerchio or di La-
verro (1020 ft.). — We cross the (19 M.) Oatriconi and the (25 M.)
Regino and enter the Balagna (see p. 511).
30 M. Isola Bossa, and thence to (44 M.) Calvi, see pp. 511, 512.
513
81. From Baslia to Capo Corso and back,
skirting the Peninsula.
7&L/) M. From Baatia to Centuri (Oamera)^ 3IV2 ^-^ ^*^^^ ^^«r ^^^^Y
at 10 a. m. ( from Bogliano at 11 a. m. ), in 8 hre. — From Centuri to
Canari^ 17 M. (no public conveyance). — From Ganari to Battia^ 27^.,
DiLioBHCB daily.
The Peninsala of Oapo Oorso is about 35 M. in length and 7l/o-9l/2 H.
in breadth. It is traversed longitudinally by the Strra MU. (4280 ft.),
culminating in the MonU Stella and the CHma della FoUice. Beautiful val-
leys descend on the E. and W. flanks of these mountains. A good road
leads along the coast, passing several ancient wateh-towers ofthePisans
and the Oenoeae, and affording a view of the picturesque islands of Elba,
Capraia, and Monte Cristo.
Bastia, see p. 511. We quit the town near the new harbour and
skirt the sea. Most of the villages lie at some distance from the coast.
— 3Vf M. Brando- La- Vasina^ 1 M. beyond which there is a Star
laeHte Cavern (adm. 1^2 fr*)) surrounded by pleasant gardens. —
0 M. Erbalunga (inn) ; 8Vi M. Marina di LUco (restaurants) ; 11 M.
Marina di PUtra-Corbara ; 14 M. Portieciolo.
At (16 M.) Santa Sever a (•Inn) opens the charming valley of
Luri, producing a luxuriant growth of grapes, oranges, and lemons.
A road (10 M.) crosses the peninsula hence, via (31/2 M.) Luri and
the (7M.) Colle di Santa Lucia (1305 ft.), near which is a ruined tower,
popularly known as the ^Tower of Seneca\ commanding a splendid view.
About 3 M. from the pass is Pino (see below).
2072 M. Marina di Meria, Beyond (23 M.) Marina di Macinaggio
the road quits the coast. — 257^ M. Bogliano, or rather Campiano
(inn), in a fertile valley. — 28V2 M. Colle di San Nicola (980 ft.) ;
then (2972 ^O Botieella , a hamlet of the parish of Ersa.
3072 M. ^oUe della Serra (1185 ft.). Ascending a little to the
right, beyond a mill, we enjoy a splendid *yiew of the Capo Corso,
the ancient Promontorium Sacrum. Off the point lies the islet of
Oiraglia, with a lighthouse. — 31 ^/^ M. Camera, a hamlet of Centuri,
with a small harbour.
The road on the West Side of the peninsula is still more pic-
turesque, with fine mountain- views and clifT-scenery. — 3372 M.
Pecorile or Morsiglia, — 3972 M. Pino has a convent with a 15th
cent, staiae of the Virgin and some Italian paintings (to Santa Se-
vera, see ahove). — 43 M. Mvnervio.
48*/j M. Marinca belongs to Canari^ a commune embracing
about a dozen hamlets and two interesting churches. To the E.
rises the Cima della Follice (see above). — 5572 ^' ^onza (inn), a
village curiously situated on a cliflT, 480 ft. in height. To the E. is
the Monte Stello (see above). We approach the Bay of San Fiorenzo.
At (64 M.) Colle di San Bernardino (235 ft.) we join the direct
road firom Bastia to San Fiorenzo vi& the Colle di Teghime (p. 512).
— 7572 M. Bastia.
Baedeker. Southern France. 4th Edit. 33
514
8S. From Bastia to Boni&oio.
109 M. Railway to (54 M.) GhitwMceia in 3l/t-4 hrs. (fares 9 fr. 75,
7 fr. 30, 5 fr. 35 e.}, and Diligbvce thence to (56 H.) Bonifacio in about
11 hrs. -^ The fact that the railway has not been continued to Bonifacio
is due to the immense expense of expropriation.
From Bastia to (13 M.) Ccuamotta, see p. 510. The railway
here diverges from the line to Ajaccio .and follows the bleak and
desolate E. coast of the island, soon crossing the Oolo (p. 510).
15*/2 M. Arena- Vescovato, Vescovato (Hdt. du Progres, moderate),
1^/2 M. to the W. (omnibus), is the chief place in the fertile district
of the Casinea. — 18 M. San Pancrazio, — 20 M. Folelli-Ore%%a.
Fbom Folblli to Orezza , 14 M. ; diligence daily in the season to
(141/sM.) Pitdicroee-Oregta, via (131/s M.) StaBtona^ which is about V4M.
from Orezza. — The road ascends the valley of the Fium^ Alto. — Oressa
is a watering-place with two cold chalybeate springs, in an unhealthy
situation , so that most of the visitors lodge at Stazzona. — Tbe Monta
San Pietro (5790 ft. ; *View), to the S.W., is easily ascended in 41/3-5 hrs.
(there and back) from Piedicroce. Bridle-path to within V4 hr. of the
top. It is also climbed from the Colle del Prato (p. 510) in 31/4 hrs. —
An omnibus also runs from Piedicroce to (12 M.) Pardina (see below).
The railway crosses the Fium *Alto and approaches the coast.
25 V^ M. PaduleUa. — 29 M. Prunete-Cervione.
Prunete (inn) is a sea-bathing resort. — Cervione (107O ft.), 4 M. to the
N.W. (omn.), has an interesting church. A mail-cart plies thence to (91 /s M.)
Valle d^Alesani (inn), near the mineral springs of Pardina (see above).
33 Va M. AlUtro. Beyond (37 M.) Bravone we traverse the
malarious Plain of Aleria, — From (45 M.) Ponte del Tavig-
nano a road ascends the valley of that river to (31 M.) Corte
(p. 509). — 46 M. Aleria, about lt/4 M. to the S. of the Stagno di
Diana, where the ancient town of Aleria was situated. The modern
Aleria lies IV4 M. to the E. of the station. — 49 M. Puzsichello,
with cold sulphureous springs, IV2 ^> from the station.
54 M. Qhisonaccia (Hdt. Costantiui, at the station), the present
terminus, is 3 M. to the N.W. of the village of that name.
Fbom Ghisokaccia to Ohisovi, 131 /a M. from the station, mail-cart
daily, through the valley of the Ptum* Orbo. — Beyond (6 M.) Pinzdmie
the road threads the picturesque *De/Ue of Inzteea. — ^/^ M. De^ qf the
Strette or of the Saut de la Mariie. About ii/4 H. farther on is a third defile
cominanded by the rocks of the Kytii EUison and the Chriiti EUison
(5900 ft.). - 131/2 M. Ghuoni (3160 ft.; Hdt. Bernardini) is pictHTesquely
situated among forests and mountains, wheve pleasant exettrsions may
be made.
The Bonifacio diligence starts on the arrival of the morning-
train. — Beyond the (57 M.) village of Ohisona^ecia (hotel) the road
crosses the Fium' Orbo, and then passes several other unimportant
stations. — 92 M. Porto Yeoohio (*HdL des Amis), with 3200 inhab.,
perhaps on the site of the ancient Portus Syra^uaanuB, Malaria pre-
vails here in summer. — 109 M. Bonifacio, see p. 508.
INDEX.
Aas de Bielle, Col d' 132.
Abel Lemercier, Refuge
391.
Able Defile 183.
Able, Gaseade d^ 486.
Abondanee 390.
Abries 400.
— , Col d» 401.
Aecous 131.
Achate, Pont de 1' 397.
Ade 126.
Adour, the 61. 62. 69. 8G.
115. 118. 159.
Agay 461.
Agde 105.
Agel, Mont 485. 493.
Agen 69.
Agneaux, Pic des 398.
Agnel, Col 400.
— , Glacier de 1' 343.
Agneliers-Bas, Les 374.
Agonac 39.
Agout, the 98. 106. 107.
AgriatifDeserto degli513.
Aguessac 299.
Aiffres 17.
Aigle, Bocher de 1' 386.
^5.
Aigles, Col des 387.
Aigliere, Pointeand Col
de r 390.
Aigoual, the 267. 420.
Aigrefeuille 8.
Aigue-Agnelle 400.
Aiguebelette, Lac d' 348.
Aiguebelle 313.
Aigueblanche 328. 339.
Aigueperse 210.
Aignea-Mortes 418. 442.
Aigneze 412.
Aiguille, Mont 372.
— , Plan de 1' 299.
— Grise 300.
— Rousse, Grande and
Petite 336.
— Verte 297. 307.
Aiguilles 400.
— Marbrees 301.
— Rouges 297. 307.
Aiguillette. L' 359. 406.
Aiguillon 69.
,Aiguillon, Bay of 22.
Aiguillous, Pic des 155.
Ailefroide 391.
— , Col de r 389. 393.
— , Glacier de T 392.
— , Sommet de 1' 392.
Aimargues 418. 443.
Aime 330.
Ain, Gorge of the 283.
— , Mouts d' 283.
Aire-sur-l'Adour 61.
Airvault 15.
Alton e, Forest of 505.
Aix(Bouehe8-du-R.) 444.
-, Canal d' 444.
-, He d' 25.
— les-Bains 316. 311.
Aixe-sur-Vienne 13.
Aizae, Coupe d* 411.
Aizenay 28.
Ajaeclo 500.
Alais 412.
Alarie, Mont d' 101.
Albarine, the 241. 284.
Albaron, Pointe d' 345.
347.
Albe," Pic d' 173.
Albenc, L' 355.
Albens 330.
Alberes, Monts 187.
Albertacee 505.
Alberts 107.
>-, Les 377.
Albertville 327.
Albi 96.
Albias 92.
Albine 107.
Aleria 514.
Alet 182.
Alex 326.
Aleyrac 268.
Algajola 511.
Alistro 514.
Alixan 355.
Allamands^ Les 289.
Allanz, Breche d' 153.
Allassac 87.
All^e-Blanche, the 304.
, GUc.de 1' 303. 304.
All^gre 213.
Allemont 378.
Allerey 195.
AUes 53.
Allevard 366.
Alleyras 267.
AUier, the 198. 199. 206.
AUinges, Les 289.
Alios 374. 404.
— , Col and Lac d' 374.
Allues, Les 337. ^^'
Alpe, Col de V 381.
—.Chalet-Hotel del' 386.
387. 388. 393. 394. 395.
396. 398.
Aloes Basses (Departm.
of) 403.
— Hautes (Departm. of)
373.
— Maritimes (Departm.
of) 480.
Alpines^ the 441.
Althen-les-Paluds 436.
Altier 268.
Aluech, Grotte d' 266.
Alvau, Roche d' 386.
Alzon 260.
Amats, Cirque des 266.
Ambazae 36.
Amberieu 283.
Ambert 213.
Ambes 55.
— , Bee d' 55.
Ambessagne 364.
Ambierle 203.
Ambin, Col and Dents d'
343.
Amelie-les-Bains 191. 54.
Amphion-les-Bains 290.
Amplepuis 204.
Ainpuis 407.
Ancizan 128.
Andelat 257.
Andey, Pointe d' 286.
Andilly-St-Ouen 22.
Andorra 182.
Andrest 86.
Andr^zieux 246.
Anduze 413.
Ane, Bee de V 331.
Aneou, Col d' 139.
An€to, Pic d' 173.
Angers 29.
33*
516
INDEX,
Anges, Bsie des 480.
Anglas, Lac d' 136.
Angolon, Pointe d* 389.
Angouleme 10.
Angoulins 25.
Anisne 275.
Anie, Pic d' 131.
Annecy 321.
— le Vicux 325.
— , Lake of 322. 324.
Annemaase 285. 288. 289.
Annes, Col des 362.
Annonay 246.
Annot 404.
Anoaillas, Plat, d' 135.
Anse 197.
Antenac, Pic d' 169.
Anterne, Col, Lae d* 294.
Antibes 462.
-, Cap d' 426.
Antignac 164.
Antioehe, Straits of 25.
Antraigues 411.
Ansta 306.
Aoste-St-Oenix 240.
Aoube, Cab. ft Col d' 158.
Aouste 424.
Apa, Molino- d' 507.
Apt 442.
Aquee Gratianse 317.
— SextiDB 444.
Aragnouet 128.
Araille, Pie d' 148.
Aramon 406.
Aran, Valley of the 1( 4.
Aravis , Col des 326.
— , Porte des 326.
Arbanats 67.
Arb^ousse, Cab. & Col d'
151.
Arbia, Col d' 507.
Arbizon, Pic d' 128.
Arbois, Mont d' 287.
Arboust Valley 128.
Arbresle, L' 204.
Are, the 342. 343.
— , Col de r 361.
— , Pas de r 265.
— , Source of the 348.
Areachon 58.
Arcay 30.
Archeboc, Pointe d' 332.
Arcizans 136.
Ares, Les 459.
Ard^che,6orge of the 411.
Ardens, Case, d* 288.
Ardentes 34.
Ardiden, Col, Lacs, & Pics
d' 148.
Ardoise, L' 408. 413.
Arfcches, Col d' 380.
Arena- Vescovato 614.
Ar^s 58.
Ares, Col d* 192.
Areu, Pointe d' 287.
Areu, Pointe d' 326. 286.
Arfeuilles 203.
Argel^s 139.
— sur-Mer 187.
Argens, Perte de V 459.
Argensole, Defile 412.
Argentera 375.
Argenti^re 307.
— , Aig., Col, and Glae,
d' 307.
-, Col de r 375.
- la'-Bessee, L' 375.
Ai^enton 35.
— Ch&teau 8.
Arias, Aig. des 388.
Ariege, the 129. 177. 178,
Arizes, Vallon d' 162.
Arjuzanx 60.
Arlanc 213.
Aries 438.
— les-Bains 191.
— sur-Tech 192.
Arleve, Chal. d* 294.
Armoy 288.
Amdguy 66.
Amfes, Col d' 346.
— , Pointe d' 346.
Arnousse, Pic d' 132.
Arpajon 256.
Arpelin 376.
Arpenaz, Case, d^ 286.
Arphy 420.
Arpont, Dome de V 343.
—, Glae. de V 343.
— , Granges de V 342.
Arques, Col de las 131.-
Arras 136.
Arrats, the 82.
Arrays, Cailloii de V 155
Arre 260.
Arreau 128.
Arremouli, Col d' 138.
Arrens 136.
Arriel, Pic d' 139.
Arrious, Col d* 138.
Arris, Puits d* 162.
Arros 131.
Ars 198.
— en-R6 25.
Arse, Case, d* 176.
Arselle, L' 346.
Arses, Pointe des 346.
Arsine, Col, Ref., and
Lac d' 398.
— , Glacier d* 895.
Artemare 284.
Arthenay 8.
Artiae, Chateau 251.
Artigou, Bois d' 156.
Artigues 171.
Artouste, Lae d' 138.
Arudy 133.
Arvant 212.
Arve, the 285. 295. 311.
320.
Arves, Aig. d* 396.
Arveyres 14.
Arvieux 376.
Arvillard, Mont, d' 368.
Asasp 131.
Ascain 116.
Aspe, Valine d' 130.
-, Pic d* 132.
Aspi, Waterfall of 163.
Aspin 168.
— , Col d' 163. 128.
Aspres-les-Corps 364.
— sur-Bueeh ^2. 424.
— sur-Veynes 431.
Assat 124.
Asse, Cluses de T 404.
Assier 93.
Astau, Granges ft Val d*
168.
Astazou, Pie de V 152.
Aste 162.
Asti, Pic 400.
Astos Valley 174.
Astrets, Col d' 149.
Astros, Chat, d' 459.
Attignat 196.
Aubagne 458.
Aubazine 250.
Aubenas 410. 407.
Aubert 175.
— , Lac A Pic d* 158.
Aubte-St>ABtoine 30.
Aubiere 221.
Aubiet 82.
Aubigrnas-Aps 410.
Aubin 110.
Aubisque, Col d' 186.
Aubrsc, Monts d^ 368.
Aubusson 243.
Aueh S&.
Aucun 136.
Aude, the 99. 183.
Audinac 176.
Aula 176.
Aulas 430.
Aule, Pic d' 138.
Aulnay de Saintonge 10.
Aulas 176.
Aumar, Lac d' 168.
Aumessas 260.
Aupillons, Pic des 880.
Aure, Col d* 158.
Aure, Tete de V 886.
— Valley 138.
Aureille 441.
Atiribeau 443. 475.
Aurillac 306.
Atiriol 458.
Auris 368.
INDEX.
517
Au88oi8 315.*
— , Col d' 316. 342.
Auteret, Ck>l de 1' 346.
Aut du Seieu 366.
Auteyielle 119.
Authion. the 4fi8.
Aatry 900.
Auyergne, the 318.
Auxonne 195.
Auzat 179.
Avajsn 128.
Avalanehes, Col des 386.
387.
Avanefaers, Les 329.
Avaudru, the 293.
Aventignan 128.
Avernet, Col de V 332.
Averole 346.
-, Vall<«e d' 345. 346.
AvevTon, the 92. 94. 110.
112. 2»9.
Avfeze 260.
Avignon 430.
Avignonet 98.
Ax 180.
Axat 183.
Axama 330.
Aya, PeBa de 117.
Aydat, Lae d' 221.
Ay dins 131.
Ayerne, Roe d' 291.
Ayes, Chal., Col, and Pie
des 376.
Ayous, Pie d* 132.
Ayre, Col & Pic d' 158.
Asay-le-Bidean 28.
Azun, Valine d' 136.
Aznns 131.
Bae261.
Bacan^re, Pie de 171.
Baeeimatlle. Som de 146.
Badaroux 268.
Bagaud, He de 470.
Bages et de Sijean, Btang
de 184.
Bagnae 257.
Bagueres-de-Bigorre 159.
— de-Luefaon 164.
Bagnols-les-Bains 268.
— siir-C^ze 408.
Baigts 119.
Bailletta, Col de la 335.
Baix 406.
Balagna, La 511. 512.
. Balaitous, Pic de 139.
Balaruc 276.
3alazue 411.
Balbigny- 204.
Baldy, Pont 376.
Balistres, Col des 187.
iBallan 28.
Ballande, Gorge de la388.
Balmaz, Roeber de la 82b.
Balme 286.
— , Aiguille de 311.
— , Chal. k la 303.
— , Col de 311. 289.
— , Grotte de 286.
— de-Renenrel 361.
Rousse, Pointe de 387
Balmot, Chal. de 333.
Balsi^ges 258.
fianassac'la-Can. 258.
Bane-Plat, the 324.
Bandol 458.
Bange, Pont and Grotte
des 319.
Banne - d*Ordenehe 226.
Banni^re, Puy da la 211.
Bans, Les 389.
— , Pie and Col des 889.
Banyuls-des-Aspres 190.
— sur-Mer 187.
Bar, Le 486.
— , Mont de 214.
Baraqne, La 219. 372.
Baraques, Les 361. 364.
Barats, Les 299.
Barbazan 164.
Barbentane 427. 436.
Barberlne, Cab. de 294.
309.
Barbezieux 12.
Barbicaja 503.
BarboUn 69.
Barcelonnette 374.
Bardonn^he 316. 377.
Bardys-St-Priest, Les 36.
Bareges 155.
— , Foret de 156.
Barge 401.
Barioz 338.
Barjae 258.
Barjols 444.
Barme de TOurs , Glae.
de la 335.
Barraeone, Le 507.
Barranes, Pic des 173.
Barraux 365.
Barreme 404.
Barry, Roc de 424.
Barres, Les 4.
Barriere, Chateau 41.
Barsac 67.
Bas-Lantosque 487.
— Monistrol 251.
Basmont, Col de 314. 338.
Bas-Monthoux 292.
Basse, the 185.
Bassens 14.
Basses-AIpes (Departm.
of) 403.
Bassies, Case, de 179.
Bastan, the 160. 155.
Bastelica 607.
Bastia 511.
BasUde, La 259.
B&thie, La 328.
Batiaz, La 292.
Batie, Chateau de la 247.
366.
B&tie-Montsaleon 402.
— Nenve-le-Laus, La373.
Bat-La^touse, Pie de 139.
Batoa, Pie de 128.
Baton, Case, du 380.
Baudiment, Chateau 4.
Baudon, Pic de 496.
Bauges, Les 319.
Baume, Mont de la 402.
Baumes, Cirque des 264.
— Basses, Les 264.
— Chaudes, Les 264.
— Vieilles, Les 264.
Bausson, Collet de 496.
Baux, Les 441.
Bayard, Chit. 365.
— , Col 364.
Bayle, Pic 379.
Bayonne 62.
Bazas 167.
Bazel, Pointe de 335.
Baziege 98.
B^ar, Cap 187.
Bearn, Le 119.
B^assae 390.
Beaueaire 406.
— Canal 406.
Beaueens 140.
Beauehastel 407.
Beaudean 162.
Beaufort 327.
Beauges, Les 819.
Beaujeu 197.
Beaujolais 197.
Beaulien 88. 462.
-^ Berrias 412.
Beaume, La 424.
Beaumont 53. 363.
Beaune 194.
Beauregard, Chat, de 356.
Beaurepaire 422.
Beaurieres 424.
Beautiran 67.
Beauvoir (Is^re) 366.
— , Chat, de 355.
Beeea Motta, Glae. 334.
Bee-Bond 346.
Bedarieux 260.
B^darrides 427.
B^deillae 176.
Bedous 131.
Beillant 19.
Bel-Achat, Plan 298.
Belehamp 324.
B($lesta 178.
518
INDEX.
Belfort (Pyr.) 183.
Belgodere 511.
Bellae 9.
Bellaehst, the 314. 337.
Belle -Cote, Sommet de
331. 334.
Belledonne, Col, Croix,
and Lsede 367. 364.379.
— , Pic« de 379.
— , Befuge de 3T9.
Belle-Etoile 337. 367.
Belleface, Boe de 331.
Bellegarde (Ain) 384.
— , Fort de 190.
Belle-Lauze 368.
Bellenaves 341.
Bellentre 331.
Belleroehe-Belmont 303.
Bellevaux 389.
Belleville (Savoy) 337.
— (Sadne) 197.
— , ValWe de 337.
Belleville- Vendee 31.
Bellevae 350.
— , Colline de 357.
-, Pavil. de 801.
Belley 384.
Belloeq 118.
Belmont 357.
Bel-Oiseau 306. 309.
Belvedere (Alpes Marit.)
487.
— (Corsica) 509.
— (Haute-Sav.) 398
— (L. St. Bernard) 306.
Belvfes 84.
Belveze-Aude 99.
Belvianes 183.
Benet 30.
BenqutS-Dessous 169.
— Dessus 169.
B^ranger, Roche 367.
Bdrard, Ca«c. a 306.
— , Vallee de 394. 306.
B^rarde, La 381. 384.
— , Pic de la 386.
Beraiides. Pic des 398.
Bereeau 496.
Bercia, Oime de la 486.
Bergerae 53.
Bergons, Pic de 151.
Bernac-Debat 159.
Be.rnay, Chateau 9.
Bergue, La 393.
Bernazaou^Valleedu 149.
Bernex 390.
B^roud 386.
Berre 439.
Berry, Canal du 33. 198
Bersae 35.
Berthemont 487.
Bertholfene 113.
Berze 303.
Berzfeme 406.
Besanf on 388.
Bdsines, (3ol de 181.
BesoUes 337.
Bessans 344.
Bessat, Le 345.
Bessay 303.
Besse 335.
Bess^es 413.
Bessey, Le 379.
Besflieres 106.
Bdtharram 134.
Bethmale 175.
Benil 487.
Beyehevelle, Chateau 55,
Beynac 39.
— , Chateau 83.
Beynost 341.
Btfsenet 300.
Beziers 103.
Biarritz 64.
Biaysse, the 375.
Bicehlsano 607.
Bicoque, La 470.
Bidarray 66.
Bidart 115.
Bidassoa, the 116. 157.
Bidos 136.
Bielle 133.
Biguglia 610.
Billard, the 389.
Billom 348.
Billy 303.
Bioge 389.
Bious, Col de 133.
— Artigues 188.
Biolay, Le 339.
Bioley, Le 333.
Biolle, La 318.
Bionnassay 900. 301.
-, Aiguille de 301.
— , Glacier de 302.
Bionnay 387. 301.
Biros, Val. de 176.
Biscaou, Pic de 138.
Bise, Cornettes de 391.
Bize 103.
Blachi^re, La 374.
Blajoux 363.
Blaitiere, Aig. de 396.
— , Case, de 396.
Blanc, Glacier 391. 393.
M3.
— , Lac (AUevard) 367.
(Oiaans) 379.
(Pyr.) 168.
(Tarentaise) 343.
Blanc, Le 9.
Blancarde, La 457.
Blanehard 390.
Blanehet, Col 400.
Blanquefort 53.
Blavettes, Les 374.
Blaye 55. *
Bl^one, the 403.
Blesle 355.
Bleu , Lac 144. 158. 163.
Bleymard, Le 368.
Blond - Bemeuil , Monta
de 9.
Blonni^re, La 333.
Bloye 330.
Bobba, Col 385.
Bobbio 401.
Boeage, Le 31.
Bocca, La 461. 475.
Boehard, Aig. a 396.
Bochor, Mt. 389.
Boeognano 609.
Boege 393.
Boen 347.
Bosufs-Rouges, Crete des
390.
Boirigo, ValHe de 495.
Bois, Le 339. 334.
— , Lea 307. 897.
— , Glacier dea 397. 307.
Bois-de-Cene 37.
Boisseron 374.
Boisset 357.
BolUne, La 487.
- la-Croisiere 435.
Bolozon 383.
Bonaguil, Chit. 66.
Bonaveau 391.
Bon-Encontre 71.
Bonhomme, (3ol dn 303.
837.
— , Croix du 308.
— , Rochers du 303.
Bonifacio 506.
Bon-Nant. the 303. 335.
Bonne 393.
Bonne-Pierre, Olae. de
la 893.
- >-, Ref. de la 384. 387.
393.
Bonnets, Les 357.
Bonneval 846.
~ les-Bains 331. 308.
— les-Granges 338.
Bonneville 366.
Bonnieux 443.
Bonrepos., Chit, de 371.
Bona 3^.
Bonson 346.
Bons-St-Didier 389.
Bonvoisin, Pic 390.
Boo-Silhens 139.
Boray 391.
Bordeau, Chateau de 318.
Bordeaux 43.
AlUes de Tourny 47.
Amphitheatre 48.
Baths 43.
Botanical Garden 47.
INDEX.
519
Bordeaux -.
Boalevards 53.
Cathedral 50.
Chureh of St. Andrtf 50.
— St. Eloi 51.
— St. Michel 51.
Church of St. Seurin 48.
— Ste. Croix 51.
— Ste. Eulalie 51.
Cloeher Peyberland 50.
— St. Michel 51.
Cours d^Alsaee - Lor-
raine 45.
— Victor Hugo 45.
Custom House 45.
Eeole des Beaux-Arts
53.
— ProfessionneUe 48.
English Park 47.
Exchange 46.
Fontaine des Trois
Graces 46.
Grand-Marche 51.
— Theatre 43. 46.
Harbour 45.
Hospital of St. Andrew
61.
Hotel de la Bourse 46.
— de la Douane 46.
— de Ville 48.
Instit.Nat. desSourdes-
Muettes 48.
Jar din Public 47.
Library, PubUe 47.
Lyc^e National 51.
Marehe des Grands-
Hommes 47.
Monument to the Gi-
rondins 46.
Musee Bonie 60.
Museum of Antiqui-
ties 47.
— of Natural History
47.
— of Paintings 48.
Notre-Dame 47.
Palais de Justice 50.
— Gallien 48.
Pare Bordelais 53.
Place de la Bourse 46.
— de la Com^die 46.
— des Q.uinconees 46.
— Gambetta 48.
Pont de Bordeaux 44.
Porte de Bourgoene 45.
— de Cailhau 40.
— de rH6t.-de-Villc51.
Prefecture 47.
Prison 50.
Railway Stations 43.
— Tubular Bridge 45.
Rostral Columns 46.
Statue of Carnot 46.
Bordeaux :
Statue of Montaigne 46.
— Montesquieu 46.
— Tourny 47.
Theatres 43. 46.
University 61.
Bordes, Les 175.
Bordina 493.
Borels - en - Champoleon
373.
Borly 393.
Bonnes 470.
Bormettes 470.
Bornand, Grand and Pe-
tit 336.
Borne , the 313. 385.
Borredon 93.
Borrigo, Valine de 495.
BoTt 343.
— , Orgues de 343.
Bosses du Dromadaire
300.
— , Cabane des 300.
Bossey-Vcyrier 889.
Bossons, Les 398.
-, Glae. des 398. 300.
Boticella 513.
Bottianella, Lago di 510.
Bouaye 37.
Bouc, Canal de 443.
Boucau, Le 63.
Boucharo 153.
Bouchet, Vallon du 400.
Boncoiran 413.
Bouguenais 37.
Boulerie, La 461.
Bouletem^re 187.
Boulogne-sur-Gesse 83.
Boulou, Le 190.
Bottlouris, La 461.
Boum^ Pic de 171.
Bouneou, Trou de 170.
Bouqu^ron 354.
Bouquet, Guidon and
Serres du 413.
Bouquetin, Col du 336.
Bourbon-Busset. Chat, de
309
— TArchambault 300.
Bourbonnais, Le 199.
6ourboule, La 331.
Bourcet, Pic 388.
Bourdeau 818.
BourdeilleS) Chat. 41.
Bourg 383.
Bourganeuf 343.
Bourg-Argental 346.
- d'Arud, Le 381.
- d^Oisans, Le 369. 378.
— d'Oueil 169.
Bourgeade 349.
Bourges 198.
Bourget, Le 315. 318.
Bourget, Lac du 311. 318.
Bourgoin 148.
Bourg - Lastic - Messeix
349.
— Madame 190.
— sur-Gironde 30.
Bourg-St And^ol 403.
— St-Maurice 331. 306.
Bournazel, Ghat. 110.
Bourne, Gorges de la 361 .
Bournezeau 31.
Bourriot-Bergonce 68.
Bourroux 136.
Bousquet-d'Orb, Le 369.
Boussac 34.
Boussens 139.
Bousson 401.
Bout-du-Lac 333. 334.
Bout-du-Monde (Puy-de-
Ddme) 311.
— (Gr<^sivaudan) 365.366.
Bouveret, Le 391.
Bouzols, Chat. 354.
Bovinant. Col de 3G0.
Bozel 338.
Bram 99.
Bramabiau , Source de
367.
Bramans 343.
Brame-Farine 366.
Bramousse, Val. de 400.
Brandes 379.
Brando 513.
Bran tome 41.
Brassac (Puy-de-D.) 318.
— (Agout) 107.
Brasses, Pointe des 393.
Braus, Col de 488.
Bravone 514.
Brech, Mont 487.
Briehe de Roland 153.
— , Fausse 153.
— , Glacier de la 153.
Br^de, La 67.
Bredons 355.
Breglio 488.
Breil 488.
Brenne, La 35.
Brenva, Glac. de la 300.
304.
Brequin, Mont 314.
Brescou. He de 105.
Bresse 383.
Bressols 106.
Bressomileile 336.
Bressuire 30.
Bretenoux 88.
Breton Straits 33.
Breuil, Le 313.
— , Col du 304.
-, Glac. du 304.
— Barret 30.
Br^vent, the 398.
620
. BreYent, Ck>l du 394.
Breviferes, Lea 833. 333.
Brevoort, Pointe 394.
Brezd - St -Cyr - en -Bourg
14.
Brianeon 376.
-, Ch&t. de 338.
— , Hont 313.
Bric-Bouehet 401.
.— Froid 401.
Brides-les-Bsins 337.
Brignoles 448.
Brignoud 365.
Brigue 393.
Brionne, La 348.
Brioude 2L3.
Brissae 29.
Brive 87.
Brives 354.
Brizon 286.
Brou, Chat. 3.
Brouffier, Mine de 368.
Brouilla 190.
Brouillard, Glacier du
300.
Brouis, Col de 488.
Brouaset, Caae de 138.
Broutay, Chat. 35.
Brouzet 413.
Bruges 53.
Brun, Gap 467.
Bruniquel 95.
Bruniasard 376.
Bruaq 467.
Brutinel 364.
Budeliere-Chambon 242.
Buet, the 394. 306.
Buffe, La 396.
Buflffere, Col de 399.
Bugarach, Peeb de 183.
Bugloae 61.
Bugue, Le 83.
Buiaaon, Le 83.
Bujaruelo 153.
Burat. Pales or Pie de
171.
Bure, Pie de 373.
Burg, Le 87.
Burlata 107.
Buron, Chat. 211.
Buaaeau-d'Ahun 343.
Busset 209.
Busai&re-Galant 13.
Buxi^rea-leS'Mines 301.
Buzan^^ais 34.
Buzet 106.
Buzy 130.
Cabaliros, the 144.
Ca banes, Les 95.
Cabaunes, Les 180.
Cabaretou, Col de 108.
Cabariot 27.
INDSX.
Gabb^-Boauebrune 464.'
Cabeasut 94.
Cabre, Col de 434.
Cabrila, Lea 360.
Caeadogne, Pie de 324.
Cacalo, Monte 603.
Cadeac 128.
Cadenet 443.
Cadillac 52. .
Cadouin 83.
Cady, Orangea de 188.
— , Plateau de 188.
Cseaar's Camp 159.
Cagne, the 4d5.
Cagnes 462.
Cahors 89.
Cahuzac 96.
Cailar, Le 418. 443.
Caillaouas, Lae de 168.
Caille, La 330.
Caillet, Le 396.
Cajarc 94.
Calabre, Pointe de 335.
Galaeuecia 605.
Calade, La 444.
Calanehe di Plana 506.
Calbiere, Grotte de la
179.
Caleatoggio 505.
Caldaniecia 506.
Calenzana 513.
Californie, La 474. 484.
CalUs, La 391.
Calmont-d'Olt 113.
Calvi 513.
Calvignae 94.
Calvo, Monte 480.
Camargue, La 441. 443.
Camarqufes 368.
Cambaaque, Val. de 144.
Cambo 66.
— lea-Baina 66.
Cambon 365.
Camera 513.
Camo'ins-lea-Bains 457.
Campagnac 259.
Campagnan 110.
Campagne-sur-Aude 183.
Campan 163.
— Valley 163.
Campbieil, Valley of 151.
Campcardos. Pie de 181.
Campiano 613.
Camplongf Mont, de 154.
Camp-Major 468.
Campo di Loro 506. 506.
CamprodoB 193.
Canabola 112.
Canard, Bee du 383.
Canari 513.
Canauley 68.
Canaveilles, Graua de
189.
Can-Brixot, Grotte de
192.
Cane^ru 143.
Cand<§, Chat. 3.
Canet 186.
Canfranc 132.
Canigou. the 188.
Canillo 181.
Canuea 471. 461.
— Eden 461.
Cannet, Le 475. 459. 473.
Canon ica. La 510.
Canourgue, La 364.
Cantal, Monts du318. 342.
366.
— , Plomb du 365.
Cantaoua 128.
Cantenao 63.
Cap-Breton 62.
Cap-d*AiMa-Turbie 468.
Capdanae 94.
Capendu 101.
Capieeiolo, CoUe di 605.
Capigliolo 605.
Capluc, Boch. de 966.
Capoulet 179.
Gapucin, Ghapeau du 386.
— , Pic du 3%.
Capucias-des-Mees 443.
Capvem 136.
Carboa-Blane 30.
Carbueeia 509.
Careanieres 183.
Careana 58.
Caroaaaonne 99.
Cardoua, Plat, de 186.
Care'i, Torreni de 494. 496.
Carenca, Gorges and Lac
de fb9.
Gargeae 606.
Gario 605.
Garlitte, Col de 190.
^, D^aert de 190.
— , Puy de 181.
Carmaux 107.
Carnoulea 450.
Carol, Tours de 181.
Garonte, Etang de 429.
Caroux, Mont 109.
Garqueiranne 470.
Carp^ntraa 437.
Garrii, Lac 367.
— , Glacier 385.
Garrelet, Bef. de 884.
387. 388. 389. 393.
Carrey, Le 338.
Garro, Gime du 336.
-, Col du 347.
— , Glacier du 347.
Carte, Ghat. 38.
Casalabriva 607.
CasaDtosxa 510.
Cascade, Col de la 153.
INDBX.
521
Gaseade-de-Couz, La 34B.
Casinea, the 514.
Casque, the 152.
— de Neron 354.
Casae-BLanche 390.
— Deserte, Col de la 388.
394.
1 Glac. de la 394.
Casaet, Le 397.
— , Chalet du 334.
— , Col dtt 398.
Cassia 458.
Caata^nede 175.
Castame, Oranges de 172.
Casteil %.
Casteilla 190.
Casteillou, Col de 183.
Castelbouc 263.
Castel-Delfino 400. 374.
Castelfrane 168.
Casteljaloux 68.
Castellane 404.
Castellar 496.
Castell-Rossello 186.
Castelluecio 504.
Castel-Minier 176.
Gastelnau, Ghat. 88.
— , Cainp and Murailie
de 385,
— , Col de 387.
Castelnaud 83.
Castelnaudary 98.
Castelnau-d'AzuD, Chat.
13«.
— de-L6vi8 96.
Castelsarrasin 71.
Castelvieil 167.
Castets 61.
Castiello 132.
Castillon (Alpes - Harit.)
: 496.
— (Ariege) 176.
— (Gironde) 52.
— , Chat, de 412.
Castres 106.
Castries 274.
Catinat, Crete de 399.
'Cattlar 187.
'Caubous 169.
Gaudos 60.
Caudrot 67.
Caumont 175.
Cannes 101.
Cauro 507. 504.
Gaussade 92.
Gausses, the 260.
Gaussols 476.
Gauterets 140.
Gauvalat, Bains de 419.
G&vaillon 442.
Cava] aire 470.
Gavignac 20.
Cayan, Plat, de 146.
Cayenne, La 27.
Gazaubon 69.
Gazaux (Gironde) 58.
— , Lake of 58.
— de-l'Arboust 167.
Gaze, Chat. 263.
Cazoules 83.
Gazouls-les-Beziers 105.
Cecire, Pic de 169.
Ceillac 399.
Ceindre, Mont 240.
Ceix, Detroit du 330.
Celaeeia, GoUe 507.
Celard, Col du 390.
Celas 412.
Celle-Bruere, La 242.
— GoTieze, La 38.
Celles 12.
Celon 35.
Cendre-Oreet, Le 211.
Cenevieres, Chat. 94.
Cenis, Mont 344.
— , Petit-Mont 343.
Centre, Canal du 195. 201.
Cehtron 330.
Centuri 513.
G^pie 182.
Cerbere 187.
Cerbillona, the 147.
Gerehio, Golle del 512.
Cerdane, Tower of 181.
G^re, the 88. 255.
Ceresole 337.
C^reste 443.
Ceret 191.
Ceriaey, Case, de 145.
Cerizay 31.
G^rons 67.
Cerru, Lac 336.
— , Chal. de 337.
Certamussat 375.
Cerri^res 376.
Cervione 514.
Gesanne 3^.
Cessena, Col de 318.
Cette 275.
— Eygun 131.
Ceuze, Mont, de 373.
Cevennes, Northern 215.
, Central 202.
Gerins 328.
Ceyrat 221.
Geyreste 458.
Ceyssat, Gol de 219.
Cdzanne, Ref. 389. 391.392
395.
C6zy, Pic de 136.
Ghabanais 13.
Ghabarrou, Pic and Lac
de 147.
Chabenet 35.
ChabertoD, the 377.
Chablais, the 289.
Ghable, Le 297. 307.
Chablettes. Les 298.
Ghabons 349.
Chabouret, Croix de 245.
Chabri^es 404.
Chabris-Gi^vres 82.
Ghagny 195.
Chailles, Gorges de 349.
ChaUlol-le-Vieil 373.
Chaise, La 27.
— Dieu, La 213.
Chaize-le-Vicomte,La 31.
Chal, La 396.
Ghalais 13.
— , Convent of 350.
GhaUnches 380.
Chalanson, Pointe de 345.
Chaldette, La 258.
Ghallans 27.
Challes, Bains de 313.
Chalmazel 247.
Ghalon-sur-Sadne 195.
Ghalp, La 363. 376. 401.
Ghalpe, La 344.
Chal us 13.
— , Ghat. 212.
Chalusset, Ghat. 86.
Ghamali^res 219.
Ghamaret 425.
Chamatte, La 404.
Ghambery 312.
Chambeyron , Aig. and
Bree de 374.
Chamblet-Keris 241.
Chambon 226. 314.
-, Lac 226.
— Feugeroiles, Le 250,
Ghamborigaud 269.
Cham borne 254.
Ghambotte, La 318.
Chambran 398.
Ghambre, La 328. 367.
Chamechaude, Pie de 360.
Ghamelet 202.
Chamois, Col des 387.
Ghamonix 294.
, Valley of 295.
Chamousset 313.
Champagne 283.
Champagny-le-Bas and
le-Haut 334.
-, Gorge of 334.
Champ-de-Mars, Signal
408.
— Ebran 381.
Champdeniers 16.
Champdieu 247.
Ghampel 302.
Champery 291.
Champhorent 381.
Ghampigny-sur-Yeude
28.
Ghampillet-Urciers 34.
622
INDEX.
Ghamplong -de - Loz^re
369.
Ghampoleon 373.
Champ-St-Pere 23.
Champs, Les 344.
Ghatnpsaur 364.
Gbamptercier 403.
Chamrousse 357.
Chanac 358.
Chan at 348.
Chancel, Bef. 393. 394.
Chancelade 41.
Chaniers 19.
Chanrouge, Col de 338.
Chantelle 303.
Chanton 305.
Chantonnay 31.
Cbapareillan 365.
Chapeau, the 396.
Chapeauroux 367.
Chapelle, La (Savoy) 308.
— Baloue, La 35.
— du-Bard 366.
— en-Valgodemar, La364.
— en- Valjouffrey, La 363.
— en-Vercors 361.
— Vlescamp, La 257.
Chapelles, Les 331.
Chapelue, La 400.
Chapieux. Les, or
Chapiu 303. 328.
Chapterie 9.
Chapuis, Chalet 333.
Chapus, Le 37.
Gharance, Mont, de 173.
Gharayines 349.
Gharbon 334.
Charbonel, Poihte and
Glacier de 345.
Charbonni^res 340.
— , Castle 314.
Gbardon, Qlae. and Col
du 384. 388.
Chardonnet, Kochers du
334.
Ghardonnet, Aig. du 307.^
-, Col du 307.
Ghardonney, Mont 306.
Chardonnieres Glacier
345.
Charensac 254.
Charente. the 10. 26.
Charix 283.
Charlanoz 298.
Gharlieu 301.
Charmaix 316.
Gharmant 13.
Charmant-Som 368. 361.
Charmette, Col de la 358.
Charmettes, Les 313.
Charmoz, Aig. des 396.
Charniat, Pont de la 319.
Charnier, Goi de 373. I
Charolles 301.
Gh&rost 33.
Charras 25.
Charri^re, Tgte and
Br^cbe de 386.
Gharroux 10.
Cbartilly, Ghat. 200.
Chartreuse, Grande 359.
Charvet, Vallon du 335.
336.
Charvin, Mont 314. 324.
326.
Chassagne, Chat. 200.
Ghasse 430.
Cbasseforet,D6me de 341.
Gbasseneuil 4.
— sur-Bonnifere 13.
Ghasteaux 88.
Ghat, Gol and Dent du
318. 319.
-, Grotte du 171.
— , Pas du 163.
Ghataigneraie 30.
Gbateau-Arnoux 403.
— Dauphin 400, "
Chateaubrun 35.
Chateau-rEveque 39.
Ghateaumeillant 34. 342.
Gh3.teauneuf (Alpes-
Marit.) 483.
— Calcernier 408. 427.
— de-Bandon 268.
— du-Pape 437.
— du-Rhone 425.
— les -Bains 311.
— sur-Charente 12.
— sur-Cher 343.
— , Puy de 237.
Ghateauponsae 9.
Ghateau-Queyras 400.
— Benard 436.
Chateauroux 33.
Ghateix. Puy de 218.
Ghatel 290. 373.
— , Bocher du 346.
Chatelaillon 35.
Chatelard, Le (Haute-
Savoie) 287. 319. 349.
— (Lyonnais) 240.
— (Switzerland) 808.
— , Pointes du 345. 347.
Ghateldon 210.
Ch&telet, Le 343.
Ghatelguyon 311.
Chatellerault 4.
Chatelleret, Ref. du 384.
385. 386. 387. 395.
Chatillon,Ghateau deSll.
-, Col de 386.
— d'Azergues 303.
de-Michaille 383.
St-Aubin 8.
sur-Chalaronne 383.
Chatillon-sur-tndre 34.
— sur-Sisvre 8.
Ghatre, La 34.
Ghaud, La 213.
Ghaudanne, La 332.
Chaudefour, Val. de 334.
Ghaud esaigues 357.
Ghaudon Norante 404.
Ghaudronniers, Trou des
173.
Chauffailles 303.
Ghauffayer 364.
Chaumeny, La 391.
Ghaurionde , Poinle de
327.
Chauve-d*Aspreinont,
Mont 486.
Ghauvet 364.
Cbauvigny 9.
Chavagnes - lea - Redoux
31.
Cbavalchere, Chal. 396.
Chavanay 4(/r.
Chavannes, Lea 289.
— , Col des 304.
Chavanon, the 243.
Chavans, Les 310.
Ghavaroche, Puy 256.
Charenon 300.
Charier e, Chal. de 340.
— , Gol de 343.
— , Glacier de 316.
Chazal 361.
Chazalets. Les 907.
Ghazay-Marcilly 303.
Chazelet, Le 394. 396.
Ch^couri, (^1 de 305.
Ghef-Boutonne 17.
Cheix, Le 313.
Cheminees des F^es 387.
Chenal-Dessous and Des-
sus 333.
Chenayari, Volcano of
408.
ChSne 388.
Chenonceaux 32.
Cher, the 3. 28. 33. 341.
Ch^res-Chassel, Les 2Q2«
Gh^ret, Tete de 388.
Gh^rettes, Les 367.
Chery 32.
Ghesay 303.
Ch^tif, Mont 306.
Cbeyal-Blane 443.
— Mort, Col du 188.
— Koir 314. 339.
— Bouge 386.
Chevelure-de-Madeleine,
Case, de la 168.
Cheyrette,Chal. dela387.
Ghevri^re, Boehe 315.
Cheylard, Le 407.
Gbeylaa-la-Buaai^e 366.
INDEX.
5!23
CLiavari 501.
Chiersou, Puy de 290.
Chlgnin-les-Marehes 313.
955.
Cbignon-de-Babuona 486.
Chindrieux 311. 318.
ChinoD 38.
Chirac 256.
Chiroulet, Gab. de 162.
Chiserette, La 331. 334.
Cholet 8.
Ghollifere, Fond de 339.
Choranehe 361.
Chorges 374.
Ghouliferes, Lea 396.
Ghrist^-EItiison 514.
Gians, Le 486.
— , Oorges du 487.
CSaudan, Glus du 486.
Gier-de-Luchon 164.
Gigalere, Roch. de 171.
Gimella 483.
Cimiez 483. 477.
Cinglegros, Pie de 265.
Cinq-Gours, Hourque des
Ginquets, Plat, des 144.
Cintegabelle 177.
Ginto,"*Monte 505.
Giotat, La 458.
Cire 8.
Gires 169.
Ciriegia 488.
Giron 9.
Giterne, Girque de 266.
Ginsalet, Gima 343.
Givray 10.
Gize 283.
Glairac 68.
Glaire, Gol and Glacier
394.
Glairee, the 377. 399.
Glaix 380.
Glan 4.
Giaphouse. TSte de 364.
Glapier, Le 253.
— , Gol de 343.
— , Mont 487.
Glaps, Rochers du 434.
Claux, Les 391. 398.
Glavans 379.
Glaveisolles 202.
Glavetta, the 303.
Claviferes 37 r.
Glayette, La 203.
— Baudemont, La 901.
Glazay 31.
Clefs, Lea 326.
Glelles-Mens 373.
Glemensat 221.
Gl^raus, Glacier de 367.
Gl^rieux 432.
Glermain 901.
Clermont-Ferrand 214.
— THerault 109.
Cl^ry, Signal de 343.
Glidane, the 249.
Gliergue, Puy de 224.
Glion, Le 34.
Clisson 30.
GlochateL Cime de 388.
Clot, Le 381.
— de la Cime 376.
— de la Hount 147.
— de rHomme. Glac. du
391.
— des Gavales, Gol and
Glac. du 387. 388. 395.
— en-Valgaudemar 364.
— Raffin, Ghal. of 394.
Glouzeaux, Les 31.
Gluny 201.
Glusanfe, Aln 291.
Glusaz, La 326.
Gluse, La 383.
, Mont, de la 319.
Gluses 286.
Goarraze-Nay 134.
Cochette, Gol de la 358.
379.
GoBur, Case, du 170.
Goex 38.
Cognac 12.
Gogolin 471. 459.
Coin, Glacier du 389.
Goiron 407.
Gol, Lac du 367.
Golagne, the 258.
Golayrac 69.
CoUerin, Col de 346.
— , Mont 346.
Collet Blanc 330.
Collioure 187.
Gollobri^res 459.
Golloney, Pointe du 387.
Gollonges Fontaine 198.
Colmars 404.
Golomars 485. 486.
Colombe, Crete de 398.
Golombier, Mont 284. 319.
Colombi^res 108.
Colon, the 364.
Coma Armada 190.
Combal, Lac de 304.
Combe, Pas de la 403.
— Br^mond 374.
Gomberousse, Gol de 367.
Combes, Les 326.
Gombeynot, Pic de 396.
Gombloup 357.
Gomm entry 241. 200.
Commecjuiers 28.
Gomps 410.
Concise 289.
Goncoules 269.
iCondamine, La 489.464.
Gondamine, Cime de la
390.
— Ghatelard 3i4.
Condat-en-Feniers 342.
Condom 69.
Condoreet 435.
Gondrieu 407.
Conference, He de la 116.
Gonflans 327.
Gonfolens 13.
Coni 489.
Gonques 110.
Cons, Dent de 324. 327.
Contamines, Les 302.
Gontente, Gol de 144.
Contes 488.
Coolidge, Pic 387.
Coquille, La 39.
Corbiires, the 101.
Gordes 95.
Gordier, Pic de Neige 393.
398.
— , Pic du Glacier 395.
Cordceil, Mont, de 404.
Gordouan, Lighthouse of
57.
Corenc 354. 360.
Gormatin 196.
Gormery 34.
Corneilla 186.
— de-Gonflent 188.
Gorneilles, Puits des 162.
Corniche, Route de la 484.
— d'Or 461.
Cornillon, Mont 250. 369.
Goron^, Lac 173.
— , Col & Glacier de 174.
Corps 363.
Gorre/e, the 87. 249.
Corridor, the 300.
Gorsavy 192.
Corsica 497.
Gorso, Capo 513.
Corsuet, Mont de 318.
Gorte 509.
Cos, Lac du 367.
Gosne-sur-rOeuil 201.
Gostabonne , Pic de 192.
Gostebelle 469.
Gosteilades 268.
Goste- Rouge, Gol and
Glacier de la 389. 893.
Goteau, Le 303.
Gotepen, Lac 367.
Cote-Rdtie, the 422.
— 8t-Andre, La 432.
Gouarde, La 25.
Coublerie 358.
Goueheron, Gol du 349.
Goueoulude, Signal de
411.
Coudes 211.
Gouffoulens-Leuc 182.
524
[INDEX.
CouffourentjOtorge of 375.
Gouflens 176.
— de-Betmajou 176.
Couhe-Verac 10.
Couiza-Montazels 182.
Gouldray-Salbart . Ghat.
16.
Goulombiers 8.
Goulon 90.
Goulongea-aur-Autise 30.
Coume-de-Bourg, Gol de
la 169.
Goum^ly, the 152.
Cour, La 337.
Gourbassil 181.
Gour^ais 35.
Couret 162.
— , Col du 136.
— , Paa de 169.
Gourets, Gol des 171.
Courmayeur 305.
Gourmes, Gorges de 486.
Courniou 107.
Cournonterrai 110.
Gouronne, La 13.
Courpiere 213.
Courrerie, La 358. 360.
Gours 204.
Goursan 103.
Gourthezon 427.
Gourty 210. 248.
Couse, the 212. 226.
GousaaCf Source du 263.
— Bonneval 87.
Goustouges 192.
Goutraa 13.
GoavereUt ^^^ 397.
Goux, Gol de 291.
Gouzan 247.
— , Ch&t. 247.
Gouze 53.
Gouzeix-Ghaptelat 9.
Gouzon 196.
Grabioules, Pic de 168.
Grammont, the 305.
Gransae 110.
Graponne 246.
Grau, La 332. 468.
— , Plaine de la 428.
Grazannes, Chat. 27.
Creche, La 8.
Greehy 203.
Credo, the 284.
— , Tunnel du 284.
Creguena^ Lac de 174.
Grtfmade, La 99.
Cr^mieu 240.
Gr^pin, Ca»c. du 287.
Cressat 243.
Great 424.
Cret de Chatillon 323.
— de la Ooutte 284.
-^ du Bey 330.
Creuae, the 3. 35. 243.
Greux-:Noir, Pointe 340
Crfeve-Tete, Pointe de
329.
Grey, Le (Val dea aia-
ciers) 303.
— , Le (Tignea) 332. 334.
Creyase-Houleydier 53.
Criou, the 293.
Grissolo 401.
Griatillan, Val. de 399.
Criatinacce 506.
Groce, Colle della 506.
Groiaette, Gap de la 475.
Croix, La 310.
— , Col de la 401.
Bayard, La 35S.
de Chantemerle 329.
de Per 311.
de laCoehe, Col de329.
dea Fretea 333.
de Toulouae 376.
de Vie 28.
d'Hina 58.
Haute, Col de la 372.
Morand, Puy de la
226.
CroUea, Dent de 360.
Croa-de-Cagnea 426.
GrouKet. Tetea and Gol
du 383.
Crozant 35.
Croze, La 264.
Crozet, Le 366. |
— , Laea du 364.
Cruaa 408.
Crueize, Viad. de la 258.
Cruaaol 401.
— , Ch&t. 407. 424.
Cuberre, Pont de 174.
Cubzac-lea-Ponta 20.
Cueumelle, Croix 398. '
Cuera-Pierrefeu 459.
Guguret, Tete du 374.
Guiaery 196.
Culan 34.
Culaoua. Col de 149.
Gularo 351.
Gulasae, Cirque de la 189.
Culet, Le 173. 291.
Guloz 284.
Cuneo 489.
Cure, Trou du 183.
Cureillea , Grangea de
149.
Curtillard 367.
Cuaaet 209.
Guay 319.
Guzeau, Boc de 224.
Guzorn 84.
Gylindre (Pyr.) 163. 154.
— , C<jl du 153.
I—, Ulacier du 153.
Saille 332.
Dalley, Gaae. du 310.
Daluia, Gorgea of the 487.
Damea, Plan dea 303.
Darbellay 338.
Dard, Oaae. du 299.
— , Pointe du 340.
Dargilan, Grotte de 267.
Daraae 212.
Dattier, Le 470.
Dauphin, Le 370.
Dauphiny 361.
Dax 61.
Deeazeville 110.
Deehargeur, Gaae. du 394.
Defey, Refuge 333.
Degagnac 89.
Demene, the 346.
Demoiaellea, Case, des
173.
DenU Blanches 391.
Deols 34.
Deome, the 346.
Deaaignea 407.
Deaert, Le 369.
— en-Valjouflfrey 363.
D^aerta, Lea 313.
Desaon 32t).
Detroit, the 364.
Deux-Kanta 330.
Devoluy, the 373.
Diable, Cheminee da367.
Pont du 389. 381.
Diana, Stagno di 514.
Die 434.
Dieu, He 38.
Dieulefit 435.
Digne 403.
Dijon 194.
Dingy 823. 326.
Dioaaz, Gorgea de la 387.
— , the 387. 394.
Diaonehe, Chal. de 333.
Dissais-sur-Vienne 4.
Dive, Canal de la 30.
Divonne 384.
Dogne, the 334.
Doire, the 343. 304.
Dolent, Col and Mont
30r.
Dolonne 905.
Domaneey 387.
Dombea, La 383.
Dome, the 336.
— , Cab., Col, and Qlae.
du 900.
'— , Paaaage du 3^.
— de Keige (^crina) 386.
393.
Dome, Monts 318.
Dom^ne 374.
Domenon, Laea 357.
Domeyrat, Chat. 313.
INDEX.
525
Dom - Jean - M auriee ,
Croix de 346.
Dompierre-sur-Mer 33.
— Sept-Fonts 301.
Don, ForSt du 470.
Donnazae 96.
Donzenae 87.
Donz^re 435.
Dora, the 904. 905.
Doran, Aiguille 315.
— , Case. & Chal. 387.
Dorat, Le 9.
Dordogne, the 13. 30. 39.
43. 53. 83. 88. 89. 339.
334. 349.
Dore, the 313. 334. 348.
— , Le Mont 333.
— , Monts 318.
Doron de Beaufort 337.
— de Salins 338. 337.
Doueh 109.
DouchejLac de la 397.
Doucy 339.
Doue-la-Fontaine 39.
Doumiselles, Grotto 419.
Dourbie,Valley of the386.
Doussard 334.
Douzes, Les 967.
Dove, Mont 254.
Doyet-la-Presle 300.
Dragonetta, Grotto 508.
Draguignan 459.
Dranee, the 389. 390. 391.
392. 310.
Drap 48'*.
Draye, TSte de la 391.
Drevenne, Gorges de la
361.
Drignae-AIly 343.
Drome, the 433. 434.
Dronne, the 13. 13. 41.
Dru, Aig. du 396. 297.
Drugeac 343.
Dufau 134.
Duhamel, Pyrami de 385.
Duingt 323. 334.
Duis, Granges de la 347.
Dunl^res, the 346.
- Montfaucon 346.
Durance, the 374. 403.
427. 443.
Duras 52.
Duravel 68.
Durbize, Plateau de 234
Durbon, Chartr. de 372.
Durolle, the 247.
Durtol 248.
Dyanne 226.
— , Col de 336.
Dyo 202.
Eau-Morte 324.
— l^oire 306.
Eaux-Bonnes 134.
— Chaudes 136.
— Bousses, Les 306.
Eauze 69.
Ebreuil 241.
Eehaillon 357.
— , Bee de r 350.
Eehappaux, Les 339.
Eehaudan, Clus de V 486.
Echelle, Col de V 377.
— , Pas de r 285.
— , Pointe de V 315.
Eehelles, Les 36. 349.
Echire-St-Gelais 16.
Eeluse, Defile of the 285.
— , Fort de r 286.
Ecole 319.
Ecot, L* 347.
Eeoutas, Les 263.
Ecrins, Les 386. 393.
-, Glae. and Col des
386. 391. 393.
Eeutieu, L' 293.
Eglifere, Pointe de V 390.
Egourgeou, Lae 401.
Eguzon 35.
Elevaz 305.
EIne 186.
Embrun 375.
Emile-Pic, Col 391. 393.
395.
Emosson 310.
Emparis, Plateau d' 393.
Encausse 129.
Encel, Pas d' 291.
Enchatra, L* 383.
— , Aig. de r 381.
— , Case, de V 381.
Enclave. Col d' 303.
Encombres, Col and
Perron des 330.
Encoula, Roeher & Col
388.
Enet, He d' 35.
Enfer, Case, Goufl're, &
Eue d' (Pyr.) 170.
— , Gorge d' 334.
, Pic d' 146.
-, Trou d* 176.
Enfetchores, the 395.
Engins 361.
— , Gorges d' 361.
Enteeade, Pic de V 173.
Entraigues 363. 390. 437.
- en-Arves 396. '
Entre-deux-Eanx 340.
Entre-deux-Mers 30.
Entrevaux 304.
Entreves 305.
Enval, Gorge d' 311.
Epanvilliers 10.
Epaule, the 153.
Epernon, Chat. 53.
Epierre 314.
Eraigne, Pay d' 227.
Eras-Talllades,Pic d* 136.
Erbalunga 513.
Erc^ 176.
Er^oueil, Lacs d* 174.
Ermitage, L' 433.
Erran, Prairies d* 171.
Ersa 513.
Escaldas, Les (Andorra)
181.
- (Pyr. Orient.) 190.
Escalette, Pas de V 172.
Escalier du Boi 411.
Escalquens 98.
Escarfene, L' 488.
Escot 131. 133.
Eacou 130.
Escoubous, Val. d' 158.
Escougous, Val d* 158.
Escouloubre 183.
Escreins 399.
Esera, the 173.
Espade, Pic d' 159.
Espagne, Pont d'145.
Espalion 112.
Espaly 254.
Esperaza 183.
Esp^re 89.
Espiadet 163.
Espinabell 193.
Espinasse 321.
Espingo, Lac d' 168.
Espinouse, Monts de V
i08.
Esplumous, Case, d^ 147.
Esponne, Plat, d' 144.
Espugnette, Cab. d* 153.
Esquierry, Val d* 168.
Esquiou, Plaine d* 162.
Esquit, Pont d' 131.
Esseillon, Forts de V 315.
343.
Esserts-Blay 336.
E.stables, Les 254.
Estagel 184.
Estaque, L' 439. 457.
Estats, Pic d* 179.
Estaubd, Val d' 154.
Estelette, Aig. de V .804.
Esterel, Monts 459.
Estibat, Pic d' 176.
Estivaux 87.
Estom, Lac d* 148.
- Soubiran, Col & Lacs
d' 146.
Estomac, Etang de V 438.
Estours Valley 176.
Estranguill^, the 170.
Estressin 430.
Etache, Col d* 343.
Etages, Les 381. 384.
— , Vallon des 388. 388.
526
INDEX.
Etale, Roeher de V 326.
Etanf ons , Vallon and
Ghlac. des 386. 387. 395.
Etanes, Plan des 173.
Etendard, the 379.
Etoile, Lac de V 394.
Etrembi^res 385.
Etret, Tete de 1* 383.
Etrier, Pont de V 319.
EtroiU, Les 264.
Etsaut 131.
Eugenie-les-Bains 61.
Euzet-les-Bains 413.
Evariste Ghaneel, Bef.
393. 394.
Evaux 343.
Evettes, Col, Qlac, and
Lac des 345. 348.
Evian-les-Bains 390.
Evtonnaz 393.
Evires 390.
Evisa 605.
Excideuil 39. 41.
Eybens 350.
Eyehauda, Gol and Lac
de i; 398.
Eyguieres 441.
Eyeurande-M erlines 349
Eymet 53.
Eymoutiers 38.
Eyrans-Carteleque 90.
Eyrein 349.
Eyzies. Les 83.
Eze 463. 485.
Fabian 198.
Fabregues 110.
Fabresan 101.
Faehe, Grande 146.
Facture 5$.
Faisans, He des 116.
Fajole, La 183.
Falicon 483.
Fanges, Foret des 183.
Fango, Fonte del 506.
Fare, Lac de la 379.
— , Bef. de la 379.
Farlede, La 468.
Faron, the 468.
Faueon 374.
Faugeres 109.
Fauguerolles 68.
Faurio, Boehe 386. 393.
Faverges 334.
Fay, Le 310.
Fayet, Le 287. 325.
Fdes, Grotte des 419.
Feissons-sur-Salins 399.
— , Croix de ••^29.
Felix Faure, Befuge 340.
Felletin 343.
Fenestre 333.
— , Col de 488.
Fer-k-Gheval, the 293.
Ferrand, Lac 372.
— , Puy 334.
Ferrat, Cape 463.
Ferret, Val 305. 306.
— , Col 306.
Ferri&re, La 367.
Ferrieres 955.
Fert^-Hauterive, La 909
— Beuilly, La 39.
Fesse, Chal. 344.
Fetoules, Tete des 383.
— , Col and Glac. des 383
— , Chaine des 381.
Feugarolles 69.
Feugerolles, Chat. 950.
Feurs 304.
Feyzin 420.
Fiac 106.
Fier, Defile. Gorges, For-
tes du 330.
— , Val de 330. 335.
Fifre, the 387.
Figeac 94.
Figueras 190.
Figuier, Cap du 116.
Fillifere, the 330.
Finhaut 309.
Finiels, Pic de 968.
Firminy 950.
Firmy 110.
Fitou 184.
Fium'Alto 514.
— Orbo 514.
Fix-St-Geneys 219.
Flayose 444.
Fl^chere, Chat, de la 393.
Fl^gfcre, the 397.
Fleurance 85.
Florae 969.
Floriaz, Ais. de la 397.
Flotte, La 35.
Floure 101.
Flumet 325. 336.
Foee, La 509.
Foix 178.
Folelli-Orezza 514. 510.
Follice, Cima della 513
Fond, Chal. du 315.
Fond -de - France, Case
du 367.
— de-la-Combe 293.
Fonds, Chal. des 294.
— , Col des 98.
— , Vallee des 294.
Fongillarde 400.
Fongrave 68.
Fonneuve 99.
Fons 413.
Fonserannes , Locks of
104.
Fontaine, La 310.
— Froide 340.
— le-FuiU 330.
Fontaines 196.
— Vendue 31.
Fontan 489.
Fontanabran, the 309.
Fontanat 219.
Fontanette 338.
Fontarabie 117.
Fontenay-le-Comte 30.
Fontgombault 4.
Fontpddrouse 189.
Font-Romeu, Hermitage
of 189.
Font-8ancte 389.
Fontvieille 441.
Forcalquier 442.
Forciolline,Val delle 403.
Forclaz, Col de la (Hte
Savoie) 287.
(Switzerl.) 309. 310.
Foreant, Lac 401.
— , Vallon de 401.
Forez, Monts du 913.
ForgevieiUe 35.
Formica Bay 468.
Formigu&res 183.
Fomet, Le 335.
Fomets 331.
Forno 848.
Foron. the 285. 388. 992.
Fos 438.
Fou, Gorge de la 193.
Fouille, Col de la 373.
Fouillouse, La 905.
Fouillouze 374.
Fouilly, Le 987.
Fooran, Pointe de 375.
Fouras 25.
Fourcanade, Fie 173.
Fourehier 3B8.
Fournaehe, Chal. 316.
Fourneaux, Les 315.
Foumels 257.
Fours, Col des 306. 347.
— , Pointe des 303.
Fourtic 69.
Fourvoirie 368.
Foux, La 374. 471.
Fraiehe, Col de la 368.
Fraiehe, Case, de la 339.
Fraisse, Le 109.
Fraisse-Unieux 906.
Fraisflinet -de - Fourques
962.
Framiquel, Fort de 181 .
Francardo 610.
France, Hosp. de 179.
Franehet 339. 336.
—, Bochers de 336.
Fraxinet, Le 471.
Fr^auXf Les 870.
INDEX.
527
Freehe, Val de la 173.
Freiflsini^res, Val. 375.
Freissinouae, La 373.
Frejus 459. 471.
— , Col de 316.
— , Ghilf of 461.
— , Pointe de 316.
Frene, Gol du 319. 367.
— , Pie du 314. 387.
Freney, Le 335. 369.
Fr^re Jean, Pas de 403
Freanay, Glacier du 300
Fresse, Gol de 335.
Frette, Col de 331. 334.
Frety, Mont 301. 305.
Freycenek-la-Tour 3^4.
Freyehinet 373.
Freyasinet, Le 398.
Fribuge 334.
Fritaz 391.
Fro id, Mont 343.
Fromage, Col de 400.
Fromental 35.
Fromentine 37.
Fronsac (Oironde) 13.
- (Hte. Garonne) 164.
Front, Pointe du 335.
Frontenay-Rohan 8.
Frontenex 337.
Frontignan 375.
Frugi^res-le-Pin 313.
Fruit, Aig. du 338.
-, Chal. du 338.
Fuenterrabia 117.
Fumadea, Lea 413.
Fumel 68.
Furiani 510.
Furon, the 361.
— , Gorges du 365.
Oa, Le 374.
Gabaa 137.'
Gabian 109.
Gabi^tou, the 153.
Gabizos, Pic de 136.
Gabriac 113.
Gadagne 436.
Gages 113.
Gagnieres 413.
Gaillac (Tarn) 96.
— (Lot) 113.
Gaillagoa 136.
Galeria 506.
Galibier, Grand and
Petit 397.
-, Col du 397.
Gali^ 164.
Galiae, Col de la 335. 337.
— , Glacier de la 336.
— , Pointe de la 386.
Gallarguea 369.
Gan 130.
Gandoli&re, Tete 385.
Ganges 419.
Gannat 310.
Gap 373.
Gapeau, the 458. 470.
Garabit Viaduct 357.
Garbet, Lac de 177.
Garein, Le 369.
Gard, the 409. 413.
— , Pont du 409.
Gardanne 447.
Garde, La flsere) 379.
— (Var) 458.
-, Chat, de la 176.
— , Fort de la 193.
— Adh^mar, La 435.
— Freinet, La 471. 459
Gardette, Pont de la 154
Gardon, the 406. 413.
Gargas, the 363.
— , Grotto of 138.
Gargilesae 35.
Garin 169.
Garnache, La 37.
Garonne, the 14. 30. 44.
78.
Garoupe, Cap de la 463.
Gars, Pic du 164.
Garses, Etang des 173.
Gartempe, the 9. 35.
Gascogne, La 85.
Gaspard, Pic 394.
Gassin 471.
Gastaldi, Punta 403.
Gatuzi&res 363.
Gaube, Lac & Pic de 145.
Gaubert-le-Chaffaiit 404.
Gauchoirs, Lea 380.
Gaudarena 489.
Gauriaguet SO.
Gavarnie 153.
-, Case, de 153.
— , Cirque de 153.
-, Gave de 150.
-, Port de 153.
Gazinet 58.
Geant, Aig. du 300. 305.
— , Col du 300. 305.
— , Glacier du 399. 300.
Grants, Pave des 408.
411.
G^broulaz, Col 315. 343
-, Chal. de 338.
Gidre 153.
Gela, Pic de la 156.
G^las, the 488.
G^lie, La 183.
Genepy, Bochera de 335.
Gen€tott7.e, La 38.
Geneva 388.
— , Lake of 389. 390.
Gen&vre, Mont 377.
Genolhae 369.
Genouillet 330.
Geny, Pic 385.
Ger, Pic de 136. 135.
Gerbier-de-Jonc, the 354.
Gerde 163.
Gergo vie. Plateau de331.
Gergy 195.
Gera, the 84. 85.
— , Lac de 894.
Gerzat 311.
Gesse 183.
Gets, Les 389.
Gdvaudan, Le 358.
Gex 384.
Ghiaonnaccia 514.
Ghiaoni 514.
Giaffa 346.
Giaglione 344.
Giandola. La 488.
Giens 470.
— , Gulf of 469.
— , Peninsula 470.
Gier, the 344.
— , Canal du 343.
Giferes-Uriage 364. 356.
Giettaz, La 336.
Giez 334.
Giffre, the 390. 391. 393.
Gigot, Hont 318.
Gijou, the 107.
Gilette 486.
Gilly 301.
Gimel 349.
Gimont-Cahuzac 83.
Ginest^, Col du 487.
Ginoles 183.
Gioberney, Mont 364.
Gippiera, Col de la 374.
Giraglia 513.
Girard, Col de 348.
Girardin, Col de 399.
Giraud, Salins de 443.
— Lezin, Br&che 388.
Girolata, Gulf of 506.
Gironde 67.
Girose Glacier 394.
Gitamelon 330.
Gitte, La 303.
Givors 344.
Canal 343. 407.
Givry 196.
Glac^, Lac 367.
Glacier Blanc, Col du
395.
Glaciera, Aig. des 304.
— , Chalets dea 303.
-, Glac. des 303. 304.
— , Torrent dea 303. 331.
— , Val des 303. 304.
Glaire, Valley of the 158.
Glandaase. Mont, de.434.
Glangea 86.
Gleizollea 374.
528
INDEX.
Glere. Cirque and Col de
172.
Gleyzin, Chal. de366. 367.
— , Combe de 367.
Gli^re, the 338.
— , Chal. de la 339. 340.
— , Pointe de la 340.
Ooleon, Aig. de 395.
Gol^se, Col de la 289.
Goletta, Col de la 333.
Golfe-Juan-Vallauris
461. 462.
Golo, the 505. 510. 514.
Goncelin 365.
Gonteaud 68.
Gonti^re, Aig. & Col 336.
Gorbio 496.
— , ValUe de 495.
Gordalasque, the 487.
Gorgutes, Lac de 172.
Got, Le 84.
Gouaux -de - TArboust
169.
Gouflfre-d'Enfer, Reserv.
du 245.
Goulaz, La 345.
Goule-Noire, Pont de 361.
Goulet, Mont, du 268.
Goulets, Gr. and Pet. 362.
Goupey, Pic de 136.
Gourdon 89.
— , Roc de 406.
Gourg-de I'Ora 496.
Gourgs-Blanes , Pic des
168.
Gourrette 136.
Goupron, Granges de 170.
Gourzy, the 196.
Gofiter, Aig. du 300.
— , D6me du 300.
Graffouil, Case, de 192.
Gragnague 98.
Gragnolet 363.
Graissesac 260.
Gramat 93.
— , Causae de 93.
Grammondo 496.
Grammont, the 291.
Granace, Colle di 507.
Grand- Arc, the 314. 327.
361.
— Bee de Pralognan 334.
— Btfrard 374.
— Bornand 326.
— Brassac, Le 41.
— Charnier 367.
— Chitelard 314.
— eiocher 314, 367.
— Col 331.
— Crossey, Defile of 358.
— Cucheron 368.
— Ferrand 372.
— Flambeau 300.
Grand-Fond, Pointe and
Glacier du 345.
— Galbert 369.
-> Galibier 397.
Grandjean 17.
Grand Lac 148.
— Lay, the 31.
— Lemps, Le 349.
— Lieu, Lac de 27.
— LuberoD 442.
— Marchet 339.
— Hieeau 314.
— Mont 327. 496.
— Morgon 375,
— Pissaillas. Glae. 347.
— Plateau 300.
— Press igny, Le 3.
— Revard 319.
— Rhone, the 441. 442
— Roc Noir 844.
— Rubren 374.
— Serre. Le 422.
— Som 360.
— Suchet, the 230.
— Tanargue 411.
— Vallon, Glacier du 383.
— Veymont 372.
Grande-Aiguille 350. 388.
— Aig. Rousse 336.
— Aiguillette 400.
— Casse 341. 336.
— Chartreuse 3S9.
— Combe 261.
— Cote 329.
— Croix, La 344.
— Eperviere 374.
— Lance d^Allemont 380.
357.
de Domene 357.
— Montague, Combe de
la 316.
— Motte 341. 336.
— Ruine 394. 385. 388.
, Col de la 388.
— Sassiere 333. 335.
— Valloire 367.
— Vaudaine 357.
Grandes-Roussea 378.
— Sables, Les 369.
Grands-Couloirs, Pointe
des 341.
— Goulets 362.
— Montets, Col des 307.
— Moulins 368.
— Mulets 300.
Granero 401.
Grange, Ch&t. de la 212.
— , Pointe de 290.
Granges, Les 310. 329. 338.
— , Case, des 227.
Grangettes, Col des 398.
Granier, Mont 365.
Granville, Trou de 88.
Graou, Col & Tetc 383.
384.
Graoues, Cirque des 171.
Grasse 475. 459.
— Chfevre, Col de 294.
Grassonay 307.
Gratelo, Lac de 333.
Grau de la Franqui 184.
— du Roi 419-
Grave, La 370. 393,
— , Pic de la 382.
— d'Ambarfcs, La 14. 20.
Gravenoire, Puy de 118.
Gravone, the 506. 508.
Greffler, Col du 345.
Gregonio, Lac 174.
Grenade-Bur-rAdour 61.
Grenoble 350.
Greoulx 444.
Grdsivaudan Valley 364.
Gresouri&res, Les 890.
Gr^sy-sur-Aix 320.
— sur-Is^re 327.
— , Case, de 318.
Greve, La 20.
Grezan 407. 410.
Grezette, Chat. 68.
Griaz, La 301.
Grignan 425.
Grimaldi 495.
Grimaud 471.
Griou, Puy 285.
Gripp 159.
, Case, de 159.
Grivats, Les 209.
Grivolee, La 367.
Groisy-le-Plot 320.
Gros, Mont 484. 485.
— , Puy 255.
Grospierres 412.
Grosseto-Pruena 507.
Gros-Villan &8.
Gruissan, Etangde 184.
Grum, Pie de 136.
Grust 149.
Gua, Le 357.
Guagno, Bagni di 505.
Guardia, Col de 496.
Guchen 128.
Gueidan, Pont de 404.
G\Lerehe, La 196.
Gue'ret 243.
Gu^ry, Lac de 236.
Gu^thary 115.
Gueula, Col de la 294. 909.
Gueule d'Enfer 411.
Guibertes, Les 998.
Guiche 118.
Guiers, the 848.
— Mort, Valley of the 356.
Gull, the 376.
— , Vallee du 999. 400«
Guillan 54.
t»DWL%
5^
Guill^amet ,|87.
GuUlestre 399.
Guingaette^ JLa 364.
Guitera, Bagni di 507.
Guitres 13.
Gujan-Meatrae ^.
Gurmencon 131.
Gurra, La 383.
Guyenne, La 44.
Haie-Foua8«i^re, La 20
Halsou 66.
Haut, Ghal. de V 333.
— Briop 57.
— du-Seuil 365.
Hauteeombe, Abbey 318.
Hautefaga, Tour de 84
Hautefort 39..
Haute-Luee 337.
Hauteriye (Vicby) 309.
— (Canon du Tarn) 364.
Hauteville 284.
Hautpoul, Ghat. 107.
Haya, the 117.
Haye-Descartes, L& 3.
Heas 155.
— , Chap. A Val. de 154.
H^ehe* 128.
Hendaye 116.
Henvieres, Les 400,
H^rault, L' 419.
-, the 104. 105. 110.
Herbergement, L* 31,
H^^pian 109.
H^rie, Gorge d' 109.
H^rissoD. Le 343.
Herm 178.
Herpie, the 379.
Hi^res, Les 396.
Hirondelles, Ool des 30^1.
HiB-K&ne-ToulHe 175.
HU 190. I
Hommaise, L^ 9.
Homme, Bee and Pic de
r 394.
— , Col de r 367.
-, Val. de r 172.
— Mori, Tue de V 176;.
Hdpital, L* (Uire) 337.
— (Lyonnais) 303.
— (Tarn) 26S.
Hort-Dieu, Signal 420.
Hortiere, L' 343.
Hospitaler L' 181,
Hostens 66.
Hotonnea 383.
Houebea, Les 387. 301;
Houerta, Col des 399.
Houle, Col de 146.
Hoarat, the 135.
llourque de
131.
iHourquette, Pie 133.
— d'Ossone 146.
Hourtin 58.
— , Etanjg d» r>8.
Hueaea 133.
Huez 379.
Huismes 38.
Hume, La 58.
Hy^rea 468
-, lies d' 470.
— Roadsteads 470.
— , Salins d' 470.
If, Chateau d' io7.
Ile-Barbe, L' 198. 339.
— Bouchard 39.
— d'Elle 22.
— Rouase, {4* 511.
— Savary.Chat. de 1' 34.
lies, Les 307.
lUe 187.
IlUott, Case. A Lac d^
144.
iniex, Val d' 391.
locudine, Monte 507.
Indre, the 3. 28. 33.
Infernet, Col de V 396.
-, Gorge de 1' 369.
Ingril, Btang d' 275.
Inzeeea, Denle of 5i4.
Ireuse, Pointe d* 2S».
Iran 117.
laole, L' 404.
Iseran, Col d* 336. 346.
Is^re, the 313. 837. 330.
386, 351. 433. etc.
— , Sources of the 336.
Iseye, Col d' 131.
Isle, the 13. 39.
— Jourdain, L' 83. 10.
— sur-Sorgue 436. 442.
Isola Roasa 511. 613
Ispagnac 383.
Issigeae 68.
Issoire 313.
Issoudun 33.
Istres 438.
Henil 9.
Itsatsou, or
Itxassott 66.
Izeste 133.
I^oard,, Col andChaleta
d' 376.
Janas 4iB7,
Jandri, tb« 382.
Janneyrias 240.
Jansaen, Cabane399. 300.
Jardin (Chamonix) 297.
— (Argentiere) 307.
Jarjatte. Vallon de la 372.
Jarnac 13.
Javrle 871.
— , La 8.
— Vizille 371.
Jaume 361.
Jausiers 374.
Javie, La 403.
,Tean>Gaathier, Col 398. .
Jeanne, Pointe 383.
Jer, Pic de 126.
J^ret, Val de 145.
Jeu-<de-Ballon 459.
Jilly 401.
Joanne, Pointe 403.
Job 313.
Joly, Col 327. 303.
— , Mont 303. 336.
Jonage, Canal de 340.
Jonas, Grottea de 225.
Joncet 189.
Jonch^re, La 36.
Joncheres 267.
Jonte, the 263. 265. 267.
Jonzac 20.
Jorasses, the 305.
Jotty, Le 2.->9.
Jouannet-Chavagnea 29.
Joueou 181.
— , Defile 188.
Joue-l^a-Tours 38.
Jonplane, Col de 290.
Jouvet, Hont 339. 330.
Joux, Le 298. 307.
Jovet, Mont 329. 330. 337
— , Col and Lac du 330
— , Plan 303.
Joze 311.
Juan, Golfe 461. 463. 475
— . lea-Pins 463.
Juillan 136.
Junquera, La 190.
Juzet, Waterfall of 167
Jabron, the 402. 42j.
Jaea 19^.
JviUet, Col 336.
jTaillon 344.
Jaizquivel 117.
Jala, the H54.
jjallieu 240. 348.
Lauga, ih^ Jallouvre, Pic de 286.
'Jambaz, Col de 3Q9.
Bndeker, Southern France. 4th Edit.
Labaeh, Bordes de 169.
— , Granges de 171.
Labarthe^Av^aae .128.
— Inard 129.
Labassa, Pic 148.
Labastide-St-P&erre 106.
— Rouairoux 167.
Labenne 63.
Laberou 131. .1
Labouheyre 60.
Labouret, Col de 403.
Ljabrpqu^re 16^.
Lab^uguiere 107.
34
5S0
imxfix.i
Lae, Cirque du 916.
— , Glaei6r and Ool dii
394.
Lac Biane, Ool du 9i3Q.
Laeabar^de 107.
Lacanau 68^
Laeaune 107.
Lachamp-Gondillac 424i
Lachat, Mont 300. 801.
— , Hontagne de 386.
Lae-Noir, Bef. 369. 383.
Laeour, Val. de 234.
Lacourt 175.
Laeourtensourt 78.
Laes^ Befuge dea 341 ^
Lafarge 39.
Lafoux 410.
Laffrey 363.
— , Qrand I>ac dfe 363.
Laghet, Le 492.
Lagraflse 101.
Lagu^pie 95.
Laisonnay 334.
Laiasae ll3.
Laisaenaat 336.
Lalinde 63.
Lalleyriat 383.
Laluque 61.
Lamalou-les'Bains 108. '
Lamanon 143.
Lamastre 407. <
Lamatirle 88;
Lamothe 58.
— ' F^nelon 89.
Lamure - sur - Asfergues
203.
Lancebranlette 306. 881:
Lane^ttes. &Iac. des 303.
Laneey 3o6.
— , Combe de 365.
Lanch&tra 383.
Lan(on 443.
Laneone, Defile 612i
Landes, Les 57. 97.
Landi'y 331.
Lanfon, Dents de 336.
Langeae 367.
Langogi)f« 367.
Langon 67.
— , Le 33.
Languedoe. Le-74.
—^ Canal an 76<
Lannemai an- 138.
Lanoux. La^' 181.
Lans 361:
Lansevard 381.
Lanfl-le>Bourg 844.
— le-Vinard 344,
Lantosque 4^7.'
Lanuejols 262. ''
Lanio 946.
Laoune, Ravine of the
145.
Lapalisee 903. '
Lapeyrouse 241.
Laquet, Col du 167.
Laqueuille 249.
Larceveau 119.
Larehe 375.
— , Col de 376.
Lardfere 286.
Largenti^re 411.
Larmet, Pointe de 363.
X*aroque 84.
Larrau 119.
LarSf Pres de 324.
Laruns 183.
Larzac, the 369.
Lass outs 113. -
Lassur 181.
Lateral Ji la Oaronne,
Canal 67.
Latbuile 334.
Larzae^ the 48.
Lau, Oranges du 345.
Laubis, Signal des 968
Lauranoure, Tgte d<i883.
Laurietiar'd^ Pyramide de
o9o.
Lailris 449.
Laus^ Le 376.
Lautaret, Le 370. 396.
— , Pic de Iffeige du 3W.
Lauvitel , Br^che , Lae,
and Signal de 380. •
Lauze, Col de la 382. S94i
Lauzes^ Les 346.
Lauzet, Le 874. 403. '
Lauzette, Col de la 403.
Lauzon, Tete de'87^.
Laval-d*'Cfere 88. ■■' ■ '
Lavancher 307. •
Lavandou, Le 470.
Lavardac 69.
Lavaud-Franehe 943.
Lavaur 106. [
Laredan, Lac de 186.
Lavelanet 178
Laverro, CoUe di 613. '
Lavey 893.
— . Glae. and Col de la 3881
388. '■ •'
— , Bef. de la 388.
Lavoir, Le 316. - '
LayOuHe-snr-Rh&de 407*
434.
LayovHte-sur-Loire 351.
Laye 364.
Leceia, Ponte 510. ' J* ■
Lechans, <(^%ialets de'386;
347. '
L^ehaud, Col 394i '
— , Pointe de 304.' '
Leetoure 84.
Legal 386.
L^e 164.
Leisse, the 819. S88.
— , Col de la 336. 341.
Lemercier, Pointe '383.
— , Befuge 891.
Lempdes 355.
Leneloitre 89.
Lenta Vallev 846.
Lepargny 38o.
L^pin-Lae>d'Aiigueb. 348.
L^rins^ lies de 476.
Lescar 119.
Leschaux soil.
— , Col de 384.
—, Olac. de 896.
Lesehes-Beaumont 494.
Leuehi, Ohal. duBOS.
Lepeun' 131.
— ; Pont de 131.
Leseure 175.'
Lesp^rre 54.
Lesponne 162.
Lestedle 1^.
L^trade 348.
Leucale 184.
Leuze, Mont 486.
Levade, La 969.
Leraldue 438.
Levanna 347.
Levant, He dn 470.
Levens- Vesubie 488. 487.
Lexos '96.
Leyment 341.
Lezaii 413.'
Lezignan IM.
Lezoux 348.
Lh^ris, Col d« 163.
— , Pfcne de 168.
Lhers, Chat, de 406.
— , Valley of 98.
I^iboume IS.
Lieurati-Bibaut^ 86D.
Lieusaoribe. Roefeer or
Tour de l56.
Lignat, Chat. 341.
Lignc, Valley of the 419.
Ligre-Bivi^re 38.
Ligueil 34.
Ligug«5 9.
Lhnagne, La 310. 348.
Litneuil 88.
Limoges 36.
Llmone 480.
Liindux 189.
Linxe 61.'
Lioran, Le 959.
— , Puy 356.
Lis, Val. du 170.
LiJe'o. Mirlna dl 619.
Lisle 41.
— d'Albt 96.
Lifltineone, CoUe di 604.
LWet 809.
— , Gorge de 368.
. 1
imyes.
5ai
Livron 424. ' • i -• «'
Llivia iS9.; '
L1& 189.
— , Col d* 189. : •
Loelies 34. '
Lodive 110.
Logi»-N»uf;''Le lOftv
Losaan, ^arili de 307.
Loire 407.
-, thefl».-198;:20S. 203.
m 250.
Lombard, GoL -GlaeHr,
and Bef. 386.
Lombarde; ¥alloii 846.
Lombez 82. ' •
Lombrive, Grotte de 179.
Londe, La 470,
LondenffetejrCol de 373.
Long, Lae 889.-487.
-, lid 154.'
Longef^y 330.
Longet, Col de 374. •
Lons-le^davmier 196. '
Loo, Gbal. deft28.
Lordat, Ghat. Ida
Lorette 344.
Lorgues 444.
Lormont 14. -i
Lorry, Pic de 133.
Lo#y, Pie 886..
Losetta, Gima di 403.
Lo»on^ Cab. du 389: i
Lostange 107.
Lot,, the 68. 88. 90. 94.
110. 113. 358. 366.
Lothiers 3&. :
Loudervielle 138.
Loudvtn 39. ■ <
Louhana.196' '
LouhosMa 66. ■•
Loup, Le:485. - n •
— , the 463i 48& .
— , Col du< Valgandemfeir)
390. '. •»
— , Gorgea du 486i *
LoiiYdeg 134i ' '
— , Lae de 1^6.
L<mres'164.. i-. '•
Loutrae 343i
Lou vie 188*.
Lovagny 330.
L6vlteL, Lae de 380..
— , Breehe and Signal de
380.
Loxanne ^Oil. .
Loze, Boehar de la 338.
Loz^re,* Hont 368.
Luant 35.' •■ • f . ■
LiM^en-Dioia 434. '
— et Le Can net, -La 459.
Luc^ram 4B8. • ■
Luteinges 383. • •
Luehon 164^ ' •
Luehon, Uo»p. de 13f&,t
Lufoo' 33l
Ludon 53.
Lugagnan 139. ■
Lugans 113.
Lugny-le8-Chat61l6a< 30A.
Lugoi 60.'
Lugrin-Tour- Ronde S90l
Lumio 513. .
Lumone 495.
Lunas 360.
Lnnel.369i
— Viel 369.
Lupino 510."
Lurbe 131.
Lupd^, Col de 136. :
Lure, Signal de 403.
Luri.6i3. '
Lusignan' 8. ■
Lus-la -Croix -Haute 313.
Lussae - les - Chateaux %
Lustou, Pic de 13& > <
Lutour, VaAley of 148. ■■
Luxe 10.
Luxey 58. • . ,
Liiym«»!447^.
Lm 160.
— , Gorge die 149.
Lnxaide 06. • :
Luzeeh 66.
Luz^iae-<Garanoii .180.
Lyona 337. . :
Art CoUectibnv. 384.
Botanical Garden 338.
Cathedral 298.
Charite , Ghnnefe add
Hosp. 381.
Church of Ainay 260; <
— of the Bedemptidhi
339.
— of N.-D. de Fealr-
viere 231.
1 ^ St.Bonaventmva836.
— St. Jean^ aaSk. * - . tf.
^ at.Uifcier 33». /
— St. .Petep 337:
— St.PdthindB 338.
Ccmsorviatoiye - 8ota-
nique 33». i .
Courfl dtt Midi 380..
Se«l« des Beatt<x^jkrts(
336.
•^ de Sant^ MiUttdre
288* * '
Faculte de Medecine et
de Pharmacie 338.
Fontaine fiarthotdi 333
~ des JaeoMns 333.
FourviereJ«33L
— , iTotre'D.. de 331.
Grand S^minaire 332.
Hdtel:d« TiUe 333.
— Dieu 238. . .
LYONS:
li«-Batbe 339. '
LibraHes 286.. 339.
LdVa^se Cemetery 232.
Lycee399.
Haneeanteri«t 233.
Monument Caraot 338.
-^ des Bafantfl du
Bbdne 369. -
— desVietioies du Sifege
de 1793, 239v .
>- of the Republic 230.
Musee de la Propaga-
tion de la Foi 230.
Museum of Art 233.
— of Antiquities 3351
— of Nat. Hist. 336.
— des Tissus 338.
Notre - Dame>-den Foul*-
viere. Chap, de 332.
Palais de Justice 339.
— de la Bourse et dn
Commerce 3381 <
^^ des Arta^ or
— St. Pierre 283.
Pare de lia Tete-d'Or
389.
Passage dui Rosaire'383.
Picture Gallery 385.
Place Belleoo^r 330.
— Carnot 330.
— de! la Gomi^die 338.
— de la Ri^liubliqiie
■ 388. ■ ^:
— des Jacobins 333.
— des Terreaux 333.
— Perrache 330.
— Raspail 388.
— Sathonay 337. .
-*- Tolozaii 339.
Pont de Gdilloti^re236.
~ del'HdOel Diet! 339.
— ^de Tilflltt 331.
— Lafayette 389.' .>
-^tdu Midi 338.
Post 0£aee 239. ■
Pr^fedture 239.
Protestant Church 338.
Quarter of La Croix
Rousse 388.
--delaGnilloti^re3dO.
— de Perrache 890. •
— Add Brotteaux 338.
— de Vaise 330.
Railway Stations 337.
Rue de I'Hotel-de-Ville
331: - !
— de la R^pobK' 238.
Sculpture' Gallery 334.
Statue of Ampere 330.
— of Jacquard 387.
— of Justi«u:339. •
— of Lo«i« XIV. 380.
34*
d32
vsnoitsi,.
LYONS:
Statue of Suehefc 339.
Steamboats 3d&
Tb^atM^ Grand 338.
— des C^lefting 333.
Tour M^alUoue 333.
Tramways 238.
Zoological Garden 339.
Lyon Bepublieain, Re-
fuge m. 396.
Lyon Vaise 198.
Lya, Cirque 4c Val. du
170.
Xaeau 63l
Maeheeoul 21.
MachlUy 389.
Maeinaeffio 513.
Maeon 1%.
Maeot 331.
Madame. 183. .
— , Pas de 408.
Madasse, Cirque de 366.
Madeleine , Lb 484. 486.
-, €ol dc la 338.
— , Mont, de la 308.
Madone de Fenetire 488.
— de Gorbio, Ool 496.
Madonetta, Punta 508.
Magagnose 486.
MagdeIain«H La 106. 344.
Magland 386.
Magnabaigt, Vallon and
Plateau 138.
Magnac-^Tottvre 13.
— Vicq 86.
Magnan, the 484.
Maguelo&ft 374.
Mahomet, Pont d« 173.
Mais, Let 467.
Madson^du-Rol,, La 399.
MaladGftta, Pie de la 173.
MalamlUe^Habert de358.
Malaua8^ae-Ma68oins486.
Mala val; Combe de 870.
Malavaux, Lea 309.
Malbrande. 393.
Maleiauasia Valley 846.
Mal^ne, La 364.
Maliblarne Valley 174.
Mal^ai 403.
Maljassei 874, 39%
Malleiooisson 403^.
Malleroage, Col 4b Piu de
146
Mallet, Mont 396.
Malmont^ the 459.
Mnipasaet 335.
Malpertufl, Hoe dn 368.
Mamelles, Lea 400.
Manda, Pont de 48").
Mand«u«, La 397t
Mandinte 164.
Manganella, CoHe di 510.
Manosque 443.
Marais, Le 33.
, Col du 331.
MairattB 33.i
Marbor^, Pic du 153. 153.
Mkvc 179.
Mareadaou, Port de 159.
— , Valley of 146.
Marcadieu 137.
Mareellaz-HauteTille 330.
Mareelly, Pointe de S93.
Mareenais 13.
Mareheprime 58.
Mareigtiy 362.
Marcillac 116.
Marcillv-le-Pav(> 347.
Marcongnan 101.
Mareeotte Sia
Marennes 26.
Marganx 53b
Margeride, Mont, de la
357.
Mariana 510.
Mariande, Case da la 381 .
— , Combe and C«l 883.
— , Glaeier da 1« 383.
Marieblanque^Oo) de 131
Marignac-St-B^a* 164.
Marignaninea, La 505.
Marignier 386.
Marinca 513.
Maringues 311.
Marlens 324.
Marlieox 383.
Marmagne 242.
Marmaadie 66.
Marot, Tunnel de 89.
Marsa 183.
Marsac 96.
Marsan 83.
Maraave, Teied« la 384.
aaraeillM 448.
AlUei de Meilban 455.
— des Capueina-.455.
Anae de la Rtfterve 453.
" des -Catalans 464.
— du Pharo 453.
Baasina 462.
Bath Batablishttents
450. 454.
Botanical Garden 457.
Boul. de Longahamp
465.
— des Danauev 458.
— DttgOBnbier 454.
-* du M»MB< 454.
Bourse 451.
Cannebi^re 451*
Cathedral 463.
Chftteau' Boriily 457,
— d*Baii.<465v
MARSEILLES t
Chateau dlf 457.
>- du Pharo 453. 454.
Corniehe Road 454.
Cours Belsunee 453.
>- du Chapitre 455.
— Plerre-Puget 453.
— St. Louia 451. 463.
Docks 453.
^ole des Beaux -Arts
454.
Bxehange 461.
Faculty ef Science 466.
Fontaine BstraDgin453.
Fort d^Entrecasteaux
408.
— Grasae-TillT 453.
— 8i. Jean 463.
Harbour 461.
Hdtel de Ville 452.
If, Ch&teau d' 457. 464.
Jetee453.
Jolietie, La 463.
Laboralory of Marine
Zoology 454.
Library, PnbUe 456.
Lyeee 454.
Monument des Mobilea
455.
Musee des Beaux-Arta
466.
Maaenm. Arehieolog-
leal 467.
— of Nat. Hist. 456.
Notre-DaiBe-de-la«
Garde 453.
Old Town 461.
Palais de Justaee 453.
— de Long^amp 455.
Pare BorMy 457.
Pomigue, lal. 454^ 457.
Port dc Frioal 457.
Boat Oface 460.
Prado 466.
Prefecture 463.
Promen. de la Oolline
or P.-Biiget 468.
Quarantine Office 463.
Race Course 467.
Railway Stations 448.
457.
RatenneaUk Island 464.
457.
Rue Cannebiere 451.
— de la Edpubi. 461.
— de Rome 468.
— Noalllea 451.
St. Victor 464.
St. VI]i«ent-de-Pa«l
456.
Sant($ 453.
Statue of Berrv^er 463.
— of BelauAfie 462.
iNMl^t;
633
MARSEILLES:
^tottie of IHsBjr 403.
— of Puget 457.
Steamboftts 490.
Theatres 490.
Tramways 41^.
Triumphal Areh 4ft9.
Zoological <)af den 46B.
Marseille^ Ganal Ae 489.
Marsous i86.
Martel 83.
— , Cansse de 88.
Martellot. Oime 647.
Marthod 835.
Harlhon 19.
Martlgnare, Col de 896.
395.
Martignf 903. 810.
— Boorg 310.
Martigues 429.
Kartin, Gape495. 4B4. 499.
Martinet, Le 419.
Martin-Jeati. Pie de 875.
Martinod 319.
Martres-de-Blri^re 129.
— dc-Vcyre, Les 911.
— Tolos«iie 199.
Maryejols 966.
Mary, Ptty 966.
Mas, Le 344.
— , Roche dii 176.
— d'Azil, the 176.
— de-la-Font 996.
— de-la-Orave.P{« du896.
— de-Ponge 418.
— des-Gardies 418.
— Stes-Puelles 98.
Masques, Rue des 899.
Massat 176.
Masse, Col de la 816.
Massebeau, Chftt. 966.
Massebiau 966.
MasMIIy 196.
Mataras, Oafle. de 186.
Mauberm^. Pie de 176.
Maubert 966.
Maudit, Mont 304.
Maul«an 119.
Maulmont 909.
Maumnsson, Straits of 97.
Maupas,PicoTTuod6 171.
Maures, Mont. 466.
Maurettes, Les 468. 470.
Mauriae 349.
Maurienne, the 313. 848.
Maurin 374.
Maurs 957.
Maussane 441.
Mauvais Pas 996.
Mauzun, Chftt. 948.
Maye, Tete de la 884.
Mayen 305.
Maylin 169.
Mayrigne 160.
Masaitiet 107.
Mas^res-sur-Salat 176.
Mases-Ie-Cr^s, Lew 969.
Maset, Le 968.
Mazl^es, Chat. 36.
— St-Rottians 17.
Meane, Roehe 394.
Mean -Martin, Aig. and
Glacier de 846.
— , Pointe de 347.
Medassoles, Val. de166.
M^des, Cap des 470.
Mediterranean, the 106.
187. 276. 450. 465. etc.
M^doe, Le 53.
M^dous 169.
M<^e8, Les 448.
M^gfeye 395.
Megevette 993.
Meidassa 401.
Meije, the 385. 896.
<-, Br^ehe de la S87. 396.
— , Glacier de la 887. 394.
Meillant 949.
Meillerte 990.
M^fjan, or
Mejean, Causse 969.
M^lan, Abbey 998.
M^lezet 316. 377.
Melle 17.
Melzeard, Tour de, 17.
Mende 258.
— , Cansse d€ 958.
M^nigoute 16.
Mennetou-sur-Cher 39.
Menoge, the 992.
Mens 372.
Menthi^re, Plat, de 984.
Menthon 392.
Mentone 492. 464.
— Garavan 464.
M^olans 874.
Meounes 469.
Mer de Glace (Chamotiix)
296.
(Argentiire) Sfft.
Mereues w.
— , Chat. 89.
Mereus 176.
Merdaret, he 365.
Merdogne, Chat. 966.
M^rens 181.
Meria 513.
Muriel 183.
M^ndol 443.
M^ritzell Chapel 161.
Merlet, Col de 367.
Mers 34.
Mescla, La 486.
— , Gorges dela 486.
M^singes 969.
Meursault 195.
Meximieux 941.
Meya, Pic 145.
Meymae 940.
— , Puy de 949.
Meyrargues 444.
Meyronnes 876.
Meynteis 967.
Meys 940.
M^ze 106.
Mezel 404.
M^zene, the 964.
Mtfzeriat 281.
M^zi^res-en-Brenne 9.
Mezilhac 406.
M<$zin 69.
M^sos 61.
Mezzana-Sarrola 500.
Mezzavia 504.
Miage 809.
— , Glae de 800. 304.
— , Col de 301.
Miehot Waterfall 166.
Midaou, Ravin du 166.
Midi, Aig. du (Hte-Sav.)
999. 998.
— , Canal du 78.
— , Col du 299.
— , Dent du 991. 810.
— de Bigorre, Pic du
157. 169.
— d'Ossau, Pie du 138.
Midon 946.
Mi^caze 88.
MieussT 998.
Miex 991.
Miglos, Chat. 179.
Mignaloux-Nouaille 9.
Milieu, Pic du 173.
Millas 187.
— , Plan de 146.
Millau 909.
Millevaehes, Plat. de949.
Milli^re, Cirque de la 966.
Millorsol, Chal. de 369.
Millv 909.
MimVast« 62.
Mimizan 60.
Mine, Pic de la 179.
Minervio 513.
Miolans, Chateau de 313.
Miou8e-Rochefort,La 249.
Mir, Tour de 199.
Mirabal, Ch&t. 176.
Mirabeau 444.
Mirabeau, Salon de 225.
Miramas 498.
Miramont 68.
Mirande 86.
Mirantin dSH.
Mirebeau 80.
Miramont (Dordog.) 82.
— , Grotto of 83.
534
ni]i>tSX;
Mirepoix 1T7.
Hiribel 241.
Miflon 402.
Misson-Habaa. 62.
Mizoen 370.<
Modane 314.
Moede, Ghal. of 394.
Moine, Aig. du 296.
Moines. Col and. Pic dee
132.
Moirans 349. 355.
Moissac 71'
Molaret 344.
Molaz, La 298.
Mole, the 286.
-, La 471.
Molieres-sur-CesB 412.
Molines 4O0.
Molitg 187.
Mollard 379.
-, the 402.
Mollo 192.
Molompise 265.
Monaco 489. 464.
Monastier, Le (Haute-
Loire) 254. 408.
— (Lozfere) 258.
Moncontour 29.
Moncoutant 30.
Mondarrainy.Pie 66.
Mondragon 425.
Mon^di^res, the 249.
Monestier -de - Clermont
371.
MonStier , Qlncier du
398.
— les • Bains , he 371.
397.
Monistrol 251.
- d'Allier 267.
Monna, Le 266.
Monne de Bagn^rtis 169.
-: de Ludion 169.
— , Soum d« 144.
Monneiier 285.
Monnier, Mont 487.
Mons^gu, Pic de
Monsempron-Libos 84.
Mons-la-TriralU 108.-
Mont, Le 343.
— , Col du 33L
Mpnta, La 358. 401.
Montagne-Noire 107.
- Verte, the 209.
Montagnes Abimees 367.
Hontagnolle, Col de 396.
Montaigu, Pic de 162.
Montaigut-le>Blane 212.^
Montailleur 327.
Montalba 191.
Montalban, Fort 484.
Montalet, Chat, de 412.
Montanvert 296. •
Montaren M9. ■
Montarque, Tucde. 168.
Montauhan (Tarn-<et- '
Q*r.) 72.
-, Waterfall of 167. .
- ViUe-Nouvelle 95.
Montaud, Pie de lOZ.
Montaai-fi^tharram 121
Montbasin 110.. •< i
Montbazon 34.
Montbeas, the 176.
Kontbel 268. ,/
Mont Blanc 299. 305. '
du Taeul 398. .
, Petit 339.
Montbolo 191. .
Montboron 434.
Montbrison 246.
— , Pic de 390. .
Montbrul 4j06.
Montbrun 263.
Montcalm, the 179. ■ .
Mont-Oenia, fiosp. du 344.
- — Road 344.
Tunnel 315.
, Petit 843.
Montehaboudt Signal de
367.
Montchalme, Puyde 225.
Mont - Ohauve .d* Aspre*'
mont 486.
- Dauphin -GuiUestre
375. m,
- de-Lans 369.
, Glftc de 383. 394.
Mont Cornadore, Oroitw
du 227.
Mont-de'MarsMi 60.
Mont Dore, Le 222.
Monte-Carlo 490. 464.
Monteignet - EscuroUes
210.
Monteils 95.
Mont^limar 424.
Montendre 30.
Montespan, Chat. 129.
Montesquieu, Rocher de
364.
Montestruc 85.
Montets, Col des 308.
Montette, La 401.
Monteux 437.
Monteynard 362.
Montfavet 436.
Montferrand 55.
Montferrat, the ^47,
Montfleury, Convent 354.
Moni«aillard 159.
Montgaven 366.
Monthey 291.
Mont-Houx 240.
Monti 495.
Kontierchame 33.
Montils-Golombier 19
MoBt-Iseran, Signal du
336
Montjoie Valley att.
Montlaur 98.
Montlouis 188.
Montlacoa 241.
MonUuel 241.
Mont-Major 441.
Montmarault 303.
Montmaur 373.
Montm^ian 313. 365
Montniin 324.
Montmirail 436.
Montmirat, Ool de 363.
Montmoreau 13.
Montmorillon 9.
Montn^., the 169.
Monton, Puy de 211.
Montoncel, Puy de 248.
Montou 340.
Montpellier a69.
— le-Vieux 366.
Montpereh^., Fort 337.
Mont-Perdu, the 154.
i £tang du 154.
, Lae Olae^ du 153.
Montpeyroi^x 211.
Montpezat 93. 411.
Montpont 42.
Montrabd 98.
Montr^eau 128.
Montremont Valley 824.
Montreaas 293.
MontresoT 34.
Montrenil-BeUay 14.
Montrevel 196.
Monitriehard 32.
Montricouz 95.
Moatrie«x 458.
Montriond- 289.
— , Lae de 389.
Montrodeix, Chat. 319.
Movtrognon. Puy du 221.
Mpntr^nd 304.
Montrottier, Chat, de 330.
Monts 3*
— Maudits, the 173.
Montvalent 93.
MDntT^ier, Pie de 176.
Moreens 60.
Morette 326.
Mprge, the 390. 349.
Merges, Aig. des 364.
Morgin 290.
— , Pas de 290.
Morgon, the 197. 375.
Mori^es 436.
Moriez 404.
Morilldv 293.
Moraanit 240.
Momex 285.
Morosaglia 010.
INPEX.
536
MorBigli* 513. .
Mort, LM 363.
— , Pont de la 3T6. ,
Horte, La 362. 368.
Hortola^495.
Morzine 2289.
Mossoux, Lea 398. t
Hostu^joux 266.
Mothe-Achard, La 31.
— gt-H^raye^ La 18-
Hothy, Le 364.
Xotie, La 343.
-, Lae de la 367.
— d'AveUlaiiB, La 363.<
— Feuilly,Ghai.deU34.
— leB'Bains, La 363.
Mottes, Chaleta d«8 399.
Mottets, Les 304.
Moaehard 388.
MoueberoUe, tbe 361.
Moueherotte, the 366. :
Moueillon, the 367.
MoviUea, Lea 296.
MouimeTes, Pic 173.
MouUgre, the 357.
Moulinet 488.
Moalini^re. Pie de La 398.
Moulins 199.
Houlis (Ari^ge) 175.
— (Gironde) 53.
Mottllea^ 60.
MounJoyo, Col de 172.
Mourese 109. ' •
Mourifes 441.
Mouriseot, Lae de 115.
Houssae (Cbarente) iO.
Mou88ais-la-6ataille 4. .
Mouste, Pie de 131.
MouBtiera-Ste-llarie 444.
Mouthieni 13.
Houti^re, Col de la 486.
Ho^tiera - en r Tarentaiae
338.
Mouton-BothsehUd 54.
Moux 101.
Houx^v 319.
Hozat 311.
Huande , La 316.
», Ooldela316.384.388.
— , Glacier de la 384. .
Mulatifere, La 343. .
MuletBit Col dea 147.
— , Grands and Peti%9
(Mont Blanc) 300.,
Mulinet^ Le 347..
Munia, Pie de,la 155 \
Hfnr de la Cote 3C0.
Murat.256. 200.. i
— le-Quaire 333.
— 8ur-»Vfebre .360.
Mure, La 363. \
Muret 139.1 .
MarolB 336. i
MurthA, Valley of tbe 485.
MuMidan 43.
Mussillon 338.
Massy-Bous-Dttn 203.
Muy, Le 459.
MuzeUe , Col de la 381.
363.
— , Lac de la 381.
— , Roche de la 383.
Myefenee, Porte de 366.
Kabrigaa, Grotte de 367.
Kijae 95.
Nalliera 23.
Nant 260.
Kant-Blanc 299.
— Borrant. Chak de 302.
— Bride 291.
— Noir 310.
Kantea 8.
Nantet, Col du 323. 336.
Nantllly 14.
Kanta, Cbal and Ref.
341
Nantua 383.
— , Lake of 288.
Napoule, La 461 475.
-, Gulf of La 473.
Karbronne 111.
Narreyroua, Grange de
390.
Kayarosae 58.
Nayea 323.
Nayettea, Combe des ^3.
Kay 124.
Kcbbio 512.
Negre, Val 366.
K^grepeliaae 95.
Negrondep 39.
Neouyieille, or
NeouyieUe, Pic de 158.'
K^rac 69.
N4re, or NAre> Pio de 151.
157.
Ndria 241. .
Kers 413.
Kerte, Tunnel de la 439.
Kearny 23.
K^thou, Pic ae 173.
Keta, Pie de 14£i.
Keuaaarguea 255
Keuya/, Glae. de la 307.
Keuyie 43.
Keuville-de-Poitou 8. >
KeuyiUe*8ut-Sa6ne 198,'
Keuyy-Pailloux 33.
Keyaebe 377. 316. .
Kevera 198.
Kexon 39. ' , . ,
Keyrac 411. i
Keyzeta, Rocbera dea 398.
Kiaux 179.
Kiee 476. 463.
— , Refuge 487.
Kieole 68.
Kid-de-la-Poule, tbe 230.
KieigLea-Pradea 411.
Kieraa, Rocb. de laa 136.
Kimes 413.
Kiolo 505.
Kiort (Deux-S6yrea) 16.
— (Pyr.) 183.
— Defile 183.
Kiaaan 103
Kiye, tbe 63. 66. 115.
Kiyelle, tbe 115. 116.
Kiyeraac 83.
Kiyolet, Dent du313. 319.
— , Col de 337.
Kizan 67.
Kisza 476.
Koailles 88.
Koalbat 210.
Nogaro 69.
Kobant 84.
Kobie 106.
Koir, Causae 265.
— , Glacier 389. 392.
— , Lac (Daupbiny) 383.
aafere) 367.
(Pyr.) 144. 158.
Koire, Col de la 400.
Koirlae, Abbey of 243.
Koirmoutier, lie de 27.
Koirterre 30.
Kolbac 254.
Kontron 13.
Konza 513.
Kore, Pie de 187.
Kotre-Dame^de-Berrier
304.
"de-Briancon 328.
de-Capimont 109.
de-Casallbua 360.
— -- de-Obarmaix 315.
de-Commiera 363.
de-Deliyrance 343.
de-Guerison 304. •
de-la-Garde 467.
de<-Lagbet 492.
de-la-Gorge 302.
de-la-Salette 363.
de-rOaier 355.
de-MarceiUe 183.
de-Rberaas 333.335.
dea-Anges 459.
des-Keiges 376,
- — de-Vaulx 363.
du-Laua 373.
Kouyelle^ La 184* ^
Kouyre, Defile of the 106.
Koyel 290. .
Koyea 436.
Koyant 200
Kozac 89.
(m
I1S[3y£^.
Nozieres 263.
Nuces 110.
Nyons 425
4t3.
Obiou, the 963. 372.
ObscUr, Vallon 483.
Oche, Dent and Gbaleis
d* 291.
Ogeu 130.
Oin, Cime d' 386.
Oiron 30.
Oisans 369
Oiseaux, Moms 46S.
Olan, Aig. and Pie d' 864.
383. 384.
Olargues 108.
Oleron, He d* 37
Oletta 513
Olette 189.
— , Les Graufl d' 189.
Olivier, Etang de r 438.
one, Combe d' 367. 369.
Ollioulea-Sanary 458.
Olmeta di Tuda 513.
Olmeto 607.
Olonne 31.
Oloron 190.
— , Gave d* 119.
Ombleze, Gorges d' 434.
Omedsa 510.
Ominanda, Col d' 605.
©ncet, Lac d' 157.
Ongloufl, Les 105.
Oo 168.
- , Lae d' 166.
— , Port d' 168.
— , Portillon d' 168
Opillous, Pie des 390.
Opme, Gorge d' 231.
Or, I1C8 d» 470.
— , Mont d' 940.
Orange 435.
Orb, the 103. 108. 109. 360.
Orbien, the 101.
Orciferes 373.
Oreival 349.
Oreo, the 337.
Ordincfede, Cab d' 163.
Ordizan 159.
Orezza 514.
Orgentil, Chal. d' 330.
Orgon 443. 486
Orgueil 68.
Orhy, Pie d' 119.
Orleans 33
Ormelnne, V 333.
Omon, Col d' 368.
Orny, Col r 308.
Oro, Monte d* 609.
Orredon, Lac d' 156.
OraifereB 307.
Orthevielle 118.
Orthes 119
Orto, Capo d* b&b.
Oflsau, Gav« « Vall^ d*
133. 137.
— , Pic du Midi d' 188
Oss^s 66.
Ossoue, Glae. d' 147.
— , Pas des Oulettes d*
154.
— Valley 164.
Ossnn IflB
Ostrieoni, the 513.
Ouchy 390.
Otteil Vatley 169.
Oueillon, Col de T 804.
Ongiers, Les 880
Onillarse, the 345
Ouille de TriAves 847.
— dii Mtdi 345.
Noire 346.
, Col de r 84?.
Ouillon, ^ointe de ^314.
Onles, Font, des 376.
Oulettes, Col des 147.
-, Bassin, Cade., A Pa«
des 146.
Oulles 368.
Oullins 348.
Oulx 377.
Ourdan 488.
Ourdinse, Cirque d* 181.
Ours, Tite de V 888.
Oursiere, Case, de 1' 857,
— , Col de r 367.
Oust 176.
Oyonnaz 988.
Oz 378.
Paeanaille,' Mont 465.
Pacaudi^re, La 908.
Padirae, Gouffre de 98.
Padulella 514.
Pagliohe, the 480.
Paillole 163.
Paillon, l^e 891. 463. 480.
Pain-de-Suere, the 4d0.
Pa'iolive, Bois de 419. -
Pair, Lac 394.
Pala4Tu 349.
— , Lac de 349.
Palalda m.
Palas, Pie 139.
Palau-del-Vidi'e 18?.
■Palavas 3(4.
Pale, Col de la 199.
Paldsieux 906.
Palet, Col du 3%. 381.
Palheres 368.
Pali^s, Ravine of Lei 366.
Palisse, La 308.
Pallet, Le 30.
Palliee, La 36.
Pallon 376.
Palluau-St-Genou >84;
Palme, Etang de la 184.
— , He de la 1»7.
Pamiers 177.
Pamproux 8.
Panehot 110.
Panissi^res 904. 387.
Pantieosa 139.
Paoul, Col de 174.
Para, La 999.
Paradis, Monta du 468.
Paradou 441.
Parata, Punta della 606.
— , Torre de la 608.
Paray-le-Monial 195. 301.
Pardigon 470.
Pareis, Boo de 947.
Parempuyre 53.
Parentis 60.
Parieres, Pies de 364.
Pariou, Puy de 290.
Paris, Plateau de 368.
Pariset 356.
Parisien, Case, du 173.
Parma, Colle di 606.
Parmarella, Bocea 606.
Parmelan, the ^3.
Parnae 68.
Paroird, Lae du 874.
Parpaillon, the 374.
— , Col du 3T5.
Parraehee, Dent 9t5.
Parse, Chalets de la 845.
Part, Pic de la 897.
Parthenay 15.
Partie, Lae de la 315.
PiHinello 606.
Paaaees lit.
Pas-de-Jeu 30.
— des-Lanelers 499.
— du-Bio(, Reflrerv. de
945.
Passable, Bay of 469.
Pau 119.
— , Gave de 69. 148. 190.
Pauillae 64.
Paulhae, Chat. 219.
Paulhaguet 313.
Paulhan 109.
Pauline, La 456. 468.
Paulois, Chftt. 97.
Paute, La 863.
— Oraon, La 369.
PiiT^, the 386.
— , Col du 687.
— des Grants 408. 411.
Pavin, l.ae 396.
PSeher, Source du 969.
P^clet, Aie. de 349:
Peeorile %\^.
P^droux, Pies 181.
Pegomas 475.
Ptfgu^re, Pie 146.
PelUon 488.
INCKEX.
637#
Peipin 108.
Poira Cava 488.
Peisey 331.
Pelaou-Blanc 347.
Pelerinat :fi(an^ d«8 299;
Pellalol 363.
Pellas 373.
Pelouae, Pointe 394.
—, Tete 336.
PeluBsin 40^'.
Pelvaa, T^te 49 ^1-
Pelvoux B^ngia STt*
— , Hont 391. 393.
Pelvoz, Mont 340.
PeAa-Btoii«a 172.
— GoUamda 133.
Pendant.) Ohul- «nd Gla^
eier de la 307.
Pene-Neve, ih& 149.
Penne (TArn.) 68. 84. 95.
— , La (Prov.) 4£i8.
Peone 487.
Perehe, Col de la 189.
Perdigat, Ghat. 83.
Pevdigbero, Pic 168.
Perdrix, Gret d^ la 345.
Perdu, Col 377.
Perier, Le 363.
Pengord, Le 39.
Perigueux 39.
Perjoret, Col de 262.
Pernps 427.
Perpignan 184.
Perralotae, Pout ^.
Perray-Jouannet 39.
Perriere, La 838.
Perrignier 389.
Pervon dea Encop&bres
3aa 314.
Pers, Col aad Aig. 344.
— Jusay-ChdTrier 385..
Persae 10.
Perthue, Col du 190.
Pertuis 443. 444.
Pertuiset 250.
Pessae 57.
Peteretf Aig. Blanche de
304.
Petit-Obarnier 367.
— Chat, Lac de 363.
— ClausiB 374.
— Ferrand 373.
— Fromafe, Coi 400.
— Infernay, Gal du 357.
^ Mont-Blanc 339.
— Pelvoux 391. 392,
— P4*teau 300.
— B»hdn«, tbe 441.
— Suchet, Puydu230.
— Tabu© 397.
Petite Aiguille RoiuMe
3^.
— Valloire, Cbal. 367,
Petite VsfidaiiiB 369.
Petites-BoQflAes 379.
Petreto-Bieehifano 507.
Pexiora 99*
Pey-Blane 444.
Peychagnard 363.
Peyrade, the 154.
Peyraoute, Moat, de 143.
, Cab. de 148.
Peyraud 346. 407.
Peyre, La 163.
— , Col de la 181.
Peyreblanqvie, Gal de 176.
Peyreget, Pic de 138.
Peyregrosse 400.
Peyrehorade 118.
Peyrelade, Boeher and
Ruinea de 365.
Peyreleau 365-
Peyresourde, Port de 128.
Peyron, Lac 316.
— , Glapier d« 380.
Peyrou d'Aokont 394.
— d'ATal 394.
Peyruis 443.
PezenaB 104.
Pezens 99.
Pezou, the 474.
Piagii, Tete de 468.
Plana, La 506. .
— , Calanehe di 506.
Piano del Be 401.
Pianottoli 507.
Pibrac 83.
Pieade, Port de la 172.
Picheru, Pointe de 335.
Piedieroce-d'Oreua 510.
514.
Pierre-^-Berang^r 397. ■
— a TEchelle 399.
— BumereSa.
— Ghatel 318. 363.
, Lac de 363.
— Fort 330.
— Grosse 345. 346.
— Joseph, Col de 301.
— Larron, Pas de 329.
— Lis, Defile 183.
— Menta 3^.
Pointue.29^.
— sur-Haute, the 313.
Pierreatte-NesUlas 139.
Pierrelatte 435.
Pierrotoni 58.
Pierroux, Glac du 383-
Pietra-Corbara 513.
Pigeol, Cab. de 179.
Pigeon, Le 83.
Pignans 459.
Pilat, Mont 245. 407.
Pilate , ^lehelles de 163.
PiUtto, Glac. de la 384'
i ' 386. 388. 389.
Pim^ne, the 154.
Pin, Alpe du 388.
Pinea 360.
Pinerolo 40L
Pinget 393.
Pino 513.
Pinsaguel 177.
Pinsot 367.
Piaealoae 514.
Piolenc 435.
Piquade, Port de la 172.
Pique^ Pic de la 1>2.
— Longue, the 147.
Pirraz, La 323.
Pisciatella, Ponte di 507.
Pise, La 369.
Pisse, Case, de la 370.
, Vallon de la 381.
Pissevache , the ( Ver-
naya£) 393.
— (near Charix) 383.
Pis BOB 60.
Pissou, Case, du 367.
Pitty 380.
Pla de la Gole 146.
Plage, La 470.
Pla«ne, La 331. 334.
, Lac de la 331.
Plagues, Col des 367.
Plaisanee 365.
Plampinet 377.
Plan, Le 333.
— , Aig. du 298.
Plan-Achat 398.
Planftrds, Les 396.
Planay, Le 334. 838.
Planays, Le 243.
Plancoulour 342.
Plaa de-la*Tour 471.
— d'Orgen 436.
— du Lac 381>
Planes, Lea 339. 341.
Plants 189.
Planiol , Bocber du 264.
Plan Praz 39a
Plaret, the 385.
Plassae 30.
Plassas, Bocber de 338..
339.
Plat, Aig. and Glacier
du 383.
Plat-a-Barbe, Case, du
333.
Plat^,' Desert ^nd £s-
caliers de 287.
Plate -deB-Agneat|x, Col
de la 396.
, Glac. de la 386.
388. 394. 995.
Plati^res, Glac. de 331.
Plessis, Ch4t. 35.
Po, SourcBB oi the 401.
PodenBac 67.
438
IN]>!6:Ki
Poet, Le 981.
Poeterle, La 363.
Poggio-Bivento«a 50^.
Pointe-Pere^e 286. 336.
Poitiers 4.
Poitou 4.
Polignae 364.
Polminhac 256.
Polmonaccia, Capo alia
505.
Polset 342. Sli.
— , Aig. de 815. :d42.
Pomaray 368.
Pomaa 182.
Pombie, Col de 1^.
Pomegue, Island 457.
Pomme, La 457.
Pompadour 87.
Pomponiana 470.
Pondieu, the 476.
Pons 19.
Ponsonni^re, Col 398«
Poniitlx 4S4.
Ponteharra-Bur-'Breda
365.
Pontchy 286.
Pont-Gbarles- Albert 486.
— d'Arc 411.
— d'Arroucat 152.
— d* Avignon 408.
— de-Beanvoisin 348,
— de-Bens 366.
— de-B^on 138.
— de-Ceret 191.
— de-Ghabestan Wl.
— de-CBaix 371.
— de-Dore 213. 248.
— de-Fillinees 292.
— de-Rereabanae 176.
— de-1'Abime 819:
— de-la-Grabe 149.
— de^la-Hielad^re 149.
— de-la-Trinit^ 364.
— de-Mdntvert 268.
— de-Peille 488.
— de*Pesead^re 149.
— des-Corbi^res 373.
-r- des-Demolselles 130.
— des-Etroits 326.
— 'des-Plagneties 288.
— de-Vaux-FleuriTille
196.
— d*Herault 419. .
— du^Cagse 84.
— du-Ghitean^ 244.
— du-Wable 386. 411.
— du-Gard 409.
— dn-Lotip 192.
— du-Mas 368.
— dn-Risse 286.
— en-Royaifs 362.
— Flavien 429.
— Haut, Le 863.
Pont-Julien 44S.
— RouBseaa ^.
-- St-Brano 359.
— St-Esprit 406.
— St-Guillerme 369. 380.
— St-Louis 495.
— St-Pierre 359.
^ Serrant 804. 306.
Ponte Leeeia 610.
— Nuovo 510.
Pontet, Le 437.
Pontgibaud 248:
Pontis Ravine -156.
Pontmort 210i
Ponts, Les 297.
Ponts-de-Ce, Les 39.
Poreherie, La 86.
PorqueroUes 470.
Port, Le 176;
Pona 181.
Portalec 132.
Portalet, the 132.
Porf-Bou 187.
— Boulet 38.
Porteros 470.
Port-de-Boue 429.
— de-6agnac 88.
— de-Pilea 3.
— de Puer 318.
Port^ 181.
Porte, Col de 178.
— du>Sex, La 291.
Portes, Le« S72.
— , Col des 376. '
— , Pas des 403.
PortetB 67.
Porte*-St-Siteon 129.
Portetta, Dent 339. 665.
Portette, Gol de la 880.
Portieeiolo 513.
Portillon, Lae du 168.
Port-J(Hnvine 28.
— St-Pfere 3t.
— Ste-Marie 69.
— Valais 991.
— Vendres 187.
Porto 406.
— Vecchio 614.
PosetSj Pic 174.'
Poueyferr^ 136.
Potreytr^SmouB, or
Poneytr^nons, Vfcllon de
146.
Pougnadoires, LeB 363
Pouilly-BonB-ChartifeU
203.
Ponjastou, the 171.
PoiMOl, Le 108. •
Poujols 363.
Poule302.
Poumdro, Pic 173.
Pounehet, Grotte du 179*
Pournel, Le 94.
Pourri, Mont 331.
— , Col du 831.
Pourri^res 447.
Pourtalet, Gol du 139.
Pourt^re, Eseal.de la 146.
Poutran, Chaleta de 379.
Pouy 61.
Pouylane, Cab. de 173.
Pouzae 159.
Pouzauges 31.
Pouzin, Le 407. 434.
Poyaz, CaBc. a 308.
Pozzo di Boreo, Konte
504.
Pra, Gol de la 367. 364.
— , Ghal.-Hot. de la 357.
Pradel, Gol d'Ei 181.
Prades 187.
Pragon, Gol 193.
Pralaire, the 393.
Pralognan 388.
— , Grand Bee de 334.
Prltlong 336.
Prals &S.
Prameeou, Glae. and Ro-
ehers de 393.
Pramelier 396.
Pranadal 366.
Prarion, the 387. 301.
Prariond 386.
Prat-et-Bonrepauz 176.
Pratloung, Refuge de 171 .
Prato, Gone del 610.
Prats-de-Hollo 193.
Pratz, Le 336.
Praz, La 314.
— , Les 297.
— Conduits, Les 399.
— d*en-Haut, Les 307.
— de Fort 307.
— hs'Roa 386. 287.
Pr^, Chal. du 306.
— d«-Bar, Glac. de 307.
— de-Dagand 339.
— Delbos, the 256.
— de Madame Carle 389.
393. a»5.
— du-B*arbier, Case, du
236.
— lapert, Le 319.
Reymond 364.
— St-Didler 306.
— Soulayran 308.
Pregnoux 333.
Preignae 67.
Prelles 376.
Pr^mol, GMx de 067.
— , ChartreuBe de 367.
Pr^mou, iht 334.
Prends-tV-Garde 235.
Pr<{B^leiB-Fondi9, Col and
Pie des 398.
PresBins 646.
INDEX.
539
Preste, La 19SI. -
— les-Baina, La 193.
Preuilly 3.
Pr^Teneh&fef 368.
Pringy 330.
Prioux 341.
Privas 407. 434.
Propriano 607.
Prorel, Pic de 376.
Provence, the 405.
Pfoveysieux 356.
Prune-au-Pot, Ohat. 36.
Prunelli di Gasani6zza
510.
Prunete->Ceririoiie 514.
Pruni^reB 374.
Pucelle, Saut de la 370.
Pucelles, Trois 356.
Pner, Port 318.
Puget-Th^nlera 487. 404.
Pugieu, Lake of 384.
Pugny 319.
Pnigmal, the 188.
Pniaeux, Pointe 393.
— , Refuge 391.
Puits, Le 839.
— aux £tolle6 484.-
Pujo 86.
Puiigny 196.
Punta, Cast, della 604.
Purtnd, Ghal. de 304.
Pasignan 340.
Puy, Le 351.
Puyhrun 88.
Puyeerda 190.
Puy-de-D6me, the 318.
— d'Issola 93.
— Freyssinet 898.
— Gamier 396.
— Gri8 387.
— Gros, the 334.
— Guillaume 310.
— l'Ev6que 68.
— Bicard 444.
— St -Vincent 390.
— Vachcr 394.
Puymorena, 'CJol de'181.
Puy6o 63. 118.
Pays, Le 383.
PuzBiehello 514.
Pyramide, La (Loire) 39.
— , Pic de la CPelvoux)
m.
Pyrenees, the 113.
— (Basses) 130.
— (Hautes) 186.
Pyrimo&t 364
Quairat, Pic 168
Quaro, the 363.
Qikart, Plateau and Lac
du 335.
— Dessos , Glae. de 335.
Q^iatre-CSiemins, Col 486.
— Routes 93.
— Seigneurs, Mont 357.
Quejcda de Pundillos
Quercy, Le' 90.
Queriguena, Col, Gorge,
A Lac de 174.
Queroy-Pranzat, Le 18,
Quenreilh 235.
— , Case, de 235.
Queyrac 54.
Queyras 399.
— , Combe de 399.
Quezac 363.
Quezaguet 259.
Quillan 188 .
Qulnee-Brissac 29.
Quintino Sella, Rifugio
900. 403.
Quirlies., Col and Glae.
des 379.
Quissae 419. 413.
Rabastens-de-Bigorre 86.
— (Tarn) 98.
Babieux 110.
R&chais, Mont 354.
Ramasse, La 344.
Rambert-Preignan 85.
Ramond, Pic de 154.
Rampon, Col de 336.
Ranee, the 257.
Raneie, Mont, de 179
Randals Hut 188.
Randan, Chat. 309.
Randanne 331.
RaphMe 428.
Rappes. Les 310.
Rateau, the 386.
Ratonneau, Island 457.
Ray, Le 483.
Razae 43-
Re, He de 25.
Realville 92.
Rebarmaz, the 309.
Rebenty, Val. du 183.181.
Rechasse, Pointe 340.
Reclavier 444.
Reclus, the 331.
Reeoin 367.
Recoules 113.
Regalon, Gorge du 443.
Regny 304,
Refgnier SiB5.
Reillanne 442.
Reine-Hortense, Grange
de la 144.
Remoulins 409.
Renardi^re, La 305.
Rencluse, the 173.
Rennes-les-Bains 183.
Re'nod, Pointe 315.
Renoso, Monte 507. 509.
Renteria 117.
R^ole, La 68.
Replanette, Col de 1b316.
Replat, Col du 357. 385.
— , Tetes du 385.
Reposoir. Convent 336.
— , the 336.
— , Rocher du 305.
Ressachau, Pointe de389.
Restaud, Cime de 496.
Restonica, the 509.
Retoumac 351.
Reuilly 83.
Revard , the (Aix - les -
Bains) 319.
— (Hautes-Alpes) 374.
Revel (Tarn) W.
Revellata 513.
Revest, Le 486.
Reyret 386.
Reys, Vailon des 337.
Reyvroz 389.
Rhemes, Ck)l de 333. 335.
— Notre-Dame 833. 335.
Rhone, the 339. 341. 384.
388. 406. 407. etc.
Rhdne, Grand 441. 443.
— , Petit 441.
— , Perte du 384.
Rhune, the 116.
Ria 188.
Ribaute, Ghat. 360.
Rib^rac 13.
Ribereta Hut 174.
Ribon, Val. de 345.
Ribot, Baraque de 430.
Rieamarie, La 250.
Richelieu 38.
Richemont, Ch&t. 41.
Rieou-Blane 396.
— la-8elle 398.
Rieumalou 108.
Riez 434.
— , Pic de 180.
Rigale, Tour de la 12.
RIgaud, Moulin de 487.
Rigolet-Haut & Bas 335.
Rio Martino, Grotto 401.
Riols 108.
Riom 210.
Rion 61.
Rionda, the 309.
Riondet 330.
Riotord 246.
Riou, Col de 149.
Rioubel, the 399.
Rioulet Ravihe 156.
Rioumajou 128.
Riou-Sec, the 366.
Bipaille, Ghftt. de 389.
Riquier 463.
540
IMD£X.
Bi«-Gha*eldon !H0.
Kuele 61.
Bistolaa 401.
Bitort 342.
Birarenn^s 28.
BiT«-de-Gier 244.
Biverie 340.
Bives 349.
Bivesaltes 184.
Bivets, Les 3%.
Biviflr-d*AUeinoii^ 367.
Bivi^re 365.
Biyoire, La 369.
— , Viaduc de la 363.
Boaillan 67.
Boanne 303.
Bobert, Lacs 357.
BobeyroQ, Ool de 373.
Bobiae 413.
Bobine Gan^l 184.
Bobion 377.
Boc de France 191.
Boeamadour 93.
Boeeapina 607.
Boehail, the 380.
Boehe, La 338.
Boebebaron, Chat. 351.
Boche Blanche 385.
Boeheblave, Chit. 363.
Boehebrune, Pic de 377
Bocheehouart 13
Boche-Clennault., La 39.
Boche-de-Glun, La 433.
— de-Bame, La 375.
— des-Arnauds. La 373.
Bochefort 35. 348.
Bochefoucauld, La 13-
Boehegrande, ibt 374.
BocheUe, La 33.
Bochemaure 406.
Boche-Melon 346.
— Posay^ La 4.
— Pourrie 327.
Bocher-Badon 367.
— Blanc 367. 386
— de TAigle 386. 395.
BocheroUes, Chat. 35
Boehero-Bou«et 384. 391
Boehe«<y Chalet dea 345.
347.
Boche-Sanadoire.the 336.
— 8ur-Foron,La885.330.
— sur-Yon, La 3J.
— Taillanie 401.
Bocbetaillee (Lyonnais)
345.
Boche - Taillee -AUemoni
369
Bocheure, Col de la 336.
-jVallondela336. 340.
Boche- Vendeix, the 3iU.
Bocles 411.
Bodez 111.
Bogliano 513.
Bognac 439.
Boignais, the 331. 330.
Boland, Br^che de 153
Bomanehe, tbe 368.. 394
Boma«8 355. 434.
Bomenay 196.
Bomorantin 33.
Bonce, Pointe de 344.
Bonee-les-Bains 19.
Boneevaux 66.
Boquebilli&re 487.
Boque • Bouillac , La,
Chat. 110.
Boqaebroa, La 88.
Boquebrune (Var) 459
— (Alpee-MMt.)464. 485.
Etoquefavoiir 429.
Boquefort (Aveyron)359.
— (Landes) 68.
— , Chat. 139.
Boquelaare, Chat. 112.
Boquemaure 406.
Boque • Ste - Marguerite,
La 266.
Boques, Tunnel de 89.
— Altes 366.
Boquetaillade, Chat. 67,
Bosairy, Chal. de 324.
Boselend 338.
— , Col de 338*
Bossa, Col and Lac 346.
Boflsignolet.Case. da336<
BosaiUon 384.
Botondo, Honie 510.
Bouaine, Clu« de 404.
Bottbaud 470.
Boubinarie 107.
Boubion 486.
Bouergue, Le HI.
Boufaae 362.
Bouge, Col 338. 343.
Bouget, Le 267.
— , Caac. du 293.
— , Tdte du 884.
Bouies, the 364. 38 i.
~, Col dea 388.
— , Glacier dea 388.
Boumaiiiere-Loubert 13
Boumigaa, Valley of 139.
BouqueUea, Cirque dea
Bouakino 186.
Bouaaeillio 186.
Bouaaelette, Mont 303.
Bouaaillon. Le 184.
^onx^ Le 401.
— , Cape 461.
Boya, the 464. 488.
Boyan 66.
Boyat 317.
BoKier, Le 365.
Bosiera-sur-Sionle, Le«
249.
Buan, Mont 393. 309.
Buburent^ Col de 375.
Buelle 12.
Buffec 10.
Buinea 257.
Buinea, Br^ebe dea 400.
Bumilly 330.
Buoma 411.
Butor, or Buiior, the
333. a06.
— , OUeier do 306. 333.
Sabai't, Mont, de 179.
Sablanceavut 35.
Sablea-d'OlQune^ea 31.
Sablettea, Le« 467.
Sabli^re, La 385.
8ablon, Le 343.
Sablooni^re 340.
Sabrea 60.
Sac, Chalet an 384.
SaccounrieUe 170.
Sacroua, Pie 173.
Sagerou, Col de 391.
Sagnea, Col de 355.
Saignea-Tdea 343.
Sagnette, Paa0o delle 403.
Sagoae 505^ 5lQ6.
SaiUacouae 189.
Saillana 434.
Saillant, Pie 164.
Saillat-Chaaaenon 13.
Saillena 181.
SaiMea-fiaina 308.
— aoua-Couxa'Q 247.
Sain-Bel 340.
Saincaize 198.
St. Affrique 259.
St. Agnan 201.
St. Agne 130.
St. Aignan 32.
St. Alban 303.
, Boe de 360.
St. Alby 107.
St. Amand, Cote 309.
de-Boixe 10.
St. Amana-SouU 107.
St. Amant- Mont- Bond
842.
St. Ambroix 413.
St. Andre 330.
, Chite»u de 433.
, GroUe de 483.
de-Oabzac 30.
de-M^imilLea 404.
487.
le-Oaz, or le-Qua
348.
S^ Anfcoine (laeve) 355.
Bt. Antonin 95.
St. Aatler 43.
INDB?i.
541
St. Auban 40a. 443. 443.
St. Aventin 167.
, Pic 181.
St. Av3M^-la-Cbawbre3i4.
St. Aygulf 471.
St. Barthelexay 483.
, Chapelle 340.
de-8€cbilienne 368.
St. Beat 1$4.
St. Benoit 8.
, Case. 4e 315.
St. Bernard. Uttle 306.
St. B^ron 848.
St. Bertraqd - de - Comia-
ges 16d.
St. Bon 338.
St. Bonnet (Daupbiny)
364.
— — CP«y-de-D6ma)311.
de'B4>chefort 241.
— — l4j-Chat«an 240.
St. Cassien, £vmitage475.
St. C^r^ 88-
St. Gergues 389.
St. Gerneuf 248.
St. Gernin 342.
St. G^saire 369. 418. 419.
St. G^saire 476.
St. Ghamae 429.
St. Ghamond 244.
St. Gharles, Ghal.de 335.
St. Ghely-d'Apcher 258.
— - du-Tarn 263.
St. Ghinian 105.
St. Gbristau 131.
St. Christoly 66.
St. Ghri8tophe-e»-Oisans
381.
r-, Qapier de 881.
la-Grotte 349.
St. Oiers'Lalande 20.
St. Girq-la-Popie 94.
St. Glair 89.
, Mont 275.
St. Glau4le 383. 399.
St. Gl^ment 3<5. -
St. Gome 113.
St. Grepin 375.
St. Gyprien 83.
St. Gyr-au-Mont-d'Or3^.
St. Denis-(?atu6 89.
de-PyejB 18.
pre8-;Martel 293.
St Desert 196
St. Desire 34.
St. Didier-la-S^ft«ve 346
St. Donat 422.
St. Egr^ve- St -Robert
350.
St. Elix 129.
St. Eloy 241.
St. EmUion 5i3.
St, ^ryal 266.
St. £st9pbe 54.
St. Etienne (Loirft) 244
d'Albagnan 108.
— — de Bfugorry 66.
de-Grossey.^S.
de-Tin^ 4isiB.
du-VaJdonfte» 268
St. Eynard 354.
St. Ferreol 326.
— — , Ba«sin de 90.
St Firmin 363.
St. Florent (Cher) 242.
(CorjicaJ 512.
St. Flour 357,
St. Pons 430.
St. Front 84.
St. GaUnier 204.
St. Gaudens 129.
St. Gaultier 9.
St. Gengpux 196.
St. Genies-Montfaucoo
408
St. Ge'niez-d'Olt 269.
St..Ge«ix-d'Aeste 240.
348.
St. Genou 34.
St. GeorgAS (Isere) 357.
(Saone) 197.
d'Aurac 212.
de-Commiers 37f.
362.
de-Didonne 57.
en-Coiuan 247.
St Gerand-le-Puy 203.
St. Germain (Savoy) 306.
818. 323.
au Mont-d'Or 198.
202.
des-F«8ses 203.
d'Estenil 54.
du-Piain 196.
Lembron 312.
les;Belles 86.
I'Espinaese 203.
St. Gerzne 61.
St. Gerrais-les- Bains 287.
le- Village 387. 325.
Vine IW.
St. Gilles 441.
sur-Vie 28.
St. Gingolpb 390.
St. Girons 175.
St. Guilhem - le - Desert
275.
St. Guillaume, ]f ont 375.
St. HUaire (Aude) 182.
(C^vennes) 264.
— - (Gard) 413.
(Lot-et-G|^r.) 69.
St Naz*ire 355.
St. Hippolyte-du-Fort
419.
St. Honorat 4l5.
St. Hospiee, Chapel 463.
St. Hugos, Cbartr. de366.
St. Ulide 242.
St. Jaeques, Mont 330.
des-Blats 356.
St. Jean, Peninsula 463.
d'Ang^ly 17.
d'Aulph 289.
de-Balme. Hermit.
of 266.
de-Belleville 830.
de-Bleymard 268.
de-Bouma¥ 422.
de-la-Riviere 487.
de-Lus 11^.
de-Mauxieane 214.
de-Rives 106.
de-Sixt 326.
de-Verges 178.
d'Herens 373.
du-Bruel 360.
du-Tournel 268.
U-Genteuier 410.
Pie4-de-Port 66.
Plarde-Gtow 191.
St. Je«nnet-la^Gaude 485.
St. Jeoire 293.
St. Jodard 204.
St. Jorios 324.
St. Joseph -de - Riviere
368.
St. Jouin-de-Mames 30.
St. Julien (Basses -Alp.)
404.
— — (Maurienne) 314.
Chaugy 302.
de^Gassagnas 412.
en-Beauebkie 372.
en-Genevoie 285.
en-Vercors 361.
le-Vendemois 87.
St-EUx 129.
St. Junien 13.
St. Ju8t-St-Mar«el 408.
St. Justin 157.
St. Just -pr^-Cfaom elix
254.
St-Ra«bert 305.
sur-Loire 205.
St. Lary 138.
St. Laurent (Savoy) 330.
d'Aigouze 418.
de-Cerdans 192.
de-la«-Pree 25.
d'Olt 367.
du-Pont 358. 349.
du-Var 462.
lea-BaiM 268.
&t-JuUen 54.
St-Paul 128.
St. Leonard 38.
St. Uiiei- 175.
St, Loubes 14.
542
IND&X.
8t. Louis-du-Bhdne 443.
Iea>Ey^a1ade« 439.
St. Loup-«uf-Thouet 16.
8t. Hacafre 67. 487.
St. Maime-Dknphin 443.
St. Malxent (8fevre-*Nior-
taise) 8.
Stir- Vie 28.
St. HtodHer 467.
St. Mareel (B.-du-Rh.)
457.
(Indrc) 36'
a**re) S30.'
CSa6ne) 196.
d'Ardfeche 413.
l^B-Valfencfc 355.
St. Marcelin 365.'
St. Mareellin 855.
St. Kariens 30.
St. Mart 318.
St. Martin (Gironde) 30.
, Col 401. 488.
, Glacier' d« 345.
Ct^rronnelK 330.
d*A*dfecli« 413.
de-Belleville 830.
de-Bouillac 110.
de-Canigcm 188.
de-la^lUKC 371.
dfe-IW 36.
d'Estr^aux 303.
d'Oney 60.
d'Uriiige 367.
du-Var 486.
> eti'-Vei'eors 381.
Lantosqve 487,
sni^la-Obambre 338.
U0son 10.
V<^8ubTe 487.
St. Martoryl39.
St. Mauvioe (Alpes-
Marit.) 483.
(Hautes-Alpes) 364.
(Switzerland) 891.
Ohat«annenf'301.
de-Beyno8t 241.
en-Trieves 373.
St. Maxittitk 448.'
St. M«ird 41.
St. Medard 43.
•St. Menet 467. ' "
St Menoust 360.
St. Me«min-le-Vieux 31.
St. Michel, Pic 861.
, Colle de 404
— -^ de-Cou08(m, Mont.
de 403. 404:
de-Onxa 187.
de-Manrienne 314.
lefl-Portes ^78
sur-Charente 18.
St. Nazaire 355. 458.
St. 17eetaire 337.
St. Nicolaa-de^Veroce
303.
St. l^isler 856
St. Palais 119.
St. Pal-St. Remain 346.
St. PiftponlOS.
St. Pa»doux-la'Rivifere
13.
St. Pargoire 110.
St. Paul; Prieiir6 de 168.
Damlatte 106.
d*Oueil 169.
le-Jeune 413.
lfe«-Dak 68
St-Anfoine 178.
8ur-Ubaye 874
Trois-Chatfeaux 435.
St Paulien 254.
St. P^ 124.
St-Simon 69.
St. P^ray 407.
St. Pierre-d'Albigny 813.
327.
— — d*AImanai^e 469.
d'Aurillac 67.
de-Boeuf 407.
— — de-ChaTtrense 380.
d^EntremOnt 349.
— de-Rnmtlly 285. 336.
de-Rhfedea 109.
dea-Corps 3.'
: dea-HoHa 469.
d*OMron 27.
le-Mofltier 198.
St. Pona, Abbey Of 438.
de-Thomiferea 107.
Stf P()i:^i>c4!n - aa^- Si oule
303.
St. Prejet-du-Tarn 265.
St. Rathbert (Lyons) 198.
d^AIbon 432.
eh-Bugey 384.
• — anr-Loire 205
St. Raphael 461. 471.
St. Remy (Aur.) 210.
(B.-dn-Rh.) «8.
aur Durolle 347.
St. Robert 358. '
St. Roch, Montagne de
386.
St. SatuVnin 486
St. Sauveur fPyr.) 150.
192.
- (He d'Yeu) 38.
— , (Jorge d6 153.
— — de-Peyre 268 ■
dea-PouTciia 267.
de-Tin^e 486.
en-Rue 346.
St. Savin (Htea. Pyr.) 140.
(Indre) 9.
St. Savioien - aur - C)ia-
rente 27.
St: Saviol 10.
St. Sebaatlen 35.
, Chap. 488.
St. 8e»fnl76. 410.
St. Seurin 30.
St. Sever 61.
St. Styrlin 314. 379.
' MiUy 202.
St. Sulpice (Tarn) 96.
d'Izon 14.
— — Laiiri^re'd6.
St. Symphorien 67.
St. Trojan 27.
St. Tropcz 471.
St. Vallier 423.
de-Thiey 476.
St. Vattry 843.
St. Vdran 400.
St. Vitetor-la-Riviire 327.
— — Tliizy 204.
St. Vineent (Landea) 63.
B^edae 83.
de-Paul 61.
St. Vivien 54.
St. Yorre 209.
St. Yrieix 87.
St. Zaeharle 458.
Ste. Anne, Lae 889.
, ITant de 343.
Ste. Banme 458. 448.
Ste. Catberine - aur - Ri-
viere 340.
Ste. (5^cile-d*Andorge
269.
Ste. Colombe (Avignon)
437.
la-Vienne 407.
Ste. Christie 85.
Ste. Devote, VaHon 490.
Ste. Enimfe 363.
Ste.'Eillalie 112. 983.
dc Cemon 959.
Ste. Flaive 81.
Ste. Foy 331.
la-Orande 52.
Ste. Helene 268.
du-Lae 386.
Ste. L^ocudie 190.
Ste. Lizaigne 93.
9te. Lucie 184.
Ste. Marguerite, lal. 475.
, Montague 397.
Ste. 'Marie- (Canipan
Valley) 159. 188. '
, Chat. 149.
Ste. MArtbe-Tour-Sainte
448.
Ste. Maure 3.
Ste. Maxime 471.
Ste. Neomaye 8.
Ste. Pazanne 27.
Ste. Vietoire, Mont. 444.
Stea. Manet, Lta 442.
INDEX.
543
Saiiites 17.
Sklanfe, tbe 393.
Salario 50B.
—, Monte 503.
Saldeu, Port d« 181.
Saleeban 164.
Saleinaz., Glac. and Fe
netre de 807.: 306.
SaleU, Port d© 177.
Salent, Gab. de 146.
Salernes 444.
Salers 243.
Sal^ses, Vallon de 488.
Salette, La 363.
Saleve, the 386.
Saigas 363.
Saliea-de-Bearn 119.
Saline (Tarent.) 387.
— -de-Giraud 443.
— d^Hyferea 354.
Sallanches 386.
Salle, La 968.
Salient 139.
Salles-Adour 159.
— la-Source 111.
— Mouiraac 10.
Salli^ree, Cdte des 368.
— , Tour 391.
Salomons, Les 396.
Salon 443. 441.
Salses 184.
Salvadon, Ghal. of 393.
Salvador-Gnilleminv
Mont 393.
Salragny 394.
Salvan 310.
Salvetat, La 106.
Sftmbet, the '398.
Sambuy, Mont, de la837«
Sames 118.
Samoens 293.
Sana, Pointe de la 335.
336.
Sanary 458.
San Bernardino, Col. 513.
SancDins 198.
Sancy, Puy de 234. 218.
San balmazzo di Tenda Sauphat, La 323
Sans-Venin, Tour 356.
Sanf Agnese 496.
Santa Cristina 183.
— Lucia, Conedi581.
— Maria Siche 607
— Begina, Seala di 505.
— Beparata 511.
— Severa 613.
Sant* Antonio di Vieo,
Colle di 505.
Santei, Lae du 335.
Sanxay 8.
Saone, tlie 196.
Saorge 489.
Saou, For^t d« 434.
Saoubiste, Pic de 138.
Saousat, Lae de 168.
Saphie, Boc 399.
Sappey, Le 358. 860.
Saquet, Pic 180.
Saragossa 1^.
Sarcenas 860.
Sarlat 83.
Sarlieve-Cournon 211.
Sarradets, Eeh. de« 153.
— Pastures 153.
— Spring 153.
— , Pic des 153.
Sarrance 131.
Sarrancolin 1^.
Sarret', Grange du 256. '
Sarrians 436.
Sartene 507.
Sassenage 865
Sassiere, Chal. de la 339.
383. 335.
— , Lac de la 333. 335.
Sassis 149.
Sathonay 240;
Saubusse 62.
Saucede, Col de 1S6.
Sauclieres 960.
Saujon 19.
Saulces, Col' des 339.
Saumall, Co\ du 108.
Saume, the 400.
Saumur 14
489
— Fiorenao 613.
— Giorgio, CJoll© di 607:
Sanguinarie, Isole 6C6.
Sanguinet 58.
San Nicola, Colle di 513.
— Paneraizio 514.
— Pietro, Monte 514.
— Boceo, Cappella 605.
— Salvadour, Ch&t. 470.
— Sebastiin 117.
— Stefano, Colle di 513.
— Traou - della - Boque
460.
Sana-Kom, Pio 383.
Saurat 176.
Saussas, La 396.
— , Aig. de la 396.
Sausse, Cab-, de 146.
Saussier 346.
Saut, Chal. du 338.
— de-Ia-Marf^e 514.
— du-Loup, Le 312.
Sauternes 67;
Sautet, Lac du 335.
Sauve, La 52.'
Sauvegarde, Pic de 173.
Sauvetat, La ^.
Sauveterre (I^t - et - <5^a-
ronne) 84.
Sauveterre , Causse de
368.
— de-Beam 119.
— de-Guyenne 52.
Savaranche, Val dSl,
Save, the 82.
Saverdun 177.
Savigny 240.
— en-Septaine 198.
Savine, Aig. de 343.
— , Chal. ft Val de 343.
Savines 375.
Savoyardi^re 358.
Saxe, La 305.
— , Mont de la 805.
Says, Col du 988.
— , Pics du 384. 389.
Sazos 149. '
Scaffarels, Les 404.
Scarena 488.
Scolette, Aig. de 343.
Scudo 503.
66a, Col de 348.
Sebastiano. Colle di 504.
S^be, La 148.
Sebers, Pont de 132.
S^chilienne 368.
S^cul^jo, Lac de 168.
S^de, La 148.
86ez 331. 306:
S^gala 98.
S^gonnaux 426.
S^gre, Pie de 189.
S^guret-Foran, Glac. and
Col de 397. 398.
Seigli^res, Chalet des
Seigne, Col de la 304.
— , Mont de la 304.
Sell de la Baque 168.
Seix 176.
S616, Col, Glac. and
Pointe du 389. 390. 392.
Sellar, Col du 890.
Selle, Col de la 385.
— , Glac. and Vallon de
la 382.
— , Plat de la 882.
— , Bef. de la 383.
Selles-sur-Cher 33.
Sellettes, Glac. and Col
des 384.
Sellon, Col du 3t3.
Sem 179.
Semalens 106.
Semnoz, the 323. 330.
Sencours, ttourque' de
157.
— , Gorge de 162.
Seneppi., the 862.
Senee 404.
Senozan 196.
Sentein 175.
544
IKDSXi.
Seo^de-Urgel, La 1^.
Seolane, Roe de 374.
Septemes 448.
Sept-FonU XA.
— Laux 967.
— Fonts 92.
Serdinya 189.
Sereyr^de, La 430.
-, Col de 387.
Serdsin 430.
Sergnieux 810.
S^rigBan 104.
Serpent, Cmc. du 334.
Serra, GoUe deU» 513.
Serrat-de-MariaUea 188.
— d'en-Merle 191.
Serraval 836.
— , Col de 336.
Serre, Col de la 169.
Serres 402.
Seniles 407.
Sers 151.
— , Cirque de 157.
Serii, Eoehe de 316.
Servette, La 341.
ServOB 387.
Sesartiguee., Foret de 171.
Severae-le-Chftteau 259.
Sevi, Golle di 606.
Sfevre-Nantaise, the 30.
31.
— NiortaMe 8. 16. 32. 30.
Sevrier 833. 324.
Seyehes 68.
Seye, Plan du 379.
Seyne-iae-Alpee 403.
— 8ur - Mer , La 458.
467.
Seyssel 384.
SeyMinet 366.
Seythenex, Grotte de 324.
Sia, Pont de 153.
Siagne, tfae 476.
— , Gorges of Ulc 475.
Siagnole, the 476.
8icie, Cap 458. 467.
Sidobre, the 107.
Sierroz, the 330.
— , Gorges du 318.
Signora, Punia della
375.
Sijean, Etang de 184.
Silan, Lac de 283.
Simandre-sur-Suran 383.
Simiane 448.
Siorae 83.
Sioule, the 311. 349.
Sirae, Col du 391.
Siradan 164.
Siricocca 496.
Siruol, Pointe de 488.
Sisteron 403.
Six-Fours 467.
Six Jeur 909.
Sixt 293.
Sobe, €ol de 139.
Socoa. Headland of 115.
Sode 171.
Solage, Case, de 171.
Solaizon 386.
Soleymieu 340.
Solferino 60.
— , Chap, de 160
Solignae-le-Vigen 66.
SoUi^res 343.
SoUi^-Po&t 458.
Sologne, La 33.
Sommet-Bueher 400.
Sommieres 419. 369.
Somport, Le 133.
Sonaille, the 374.
Sdne^ La 365.
Soreiller. the 881.
Soreze 99.
Sorgue, the 437. 436.
Sorgues 437. 436.
Sospel 488.
SouMron 133.
Soucy, Pas de 365.
Soueix 176.
Souillae 88.
Soulac-les-Bains 54.
Soularac, Pie de 181.
Soulien, Valton des 377.
SouUans 28.
Soulom 149.
Soulor, Col de 136.
gourde, the 365.
Soureillan, Refuge de.
391.
Soussans 53.
Soustons 62.
Soustra, Col de 403.
Souterraine, La 35.
Souvi^^y 300.
Soveria 510.
Spalong 133.
Spijoles, Pie de 188.
StSKzona 510. 513.
Stello, Monte 513.
Strette, DeOle of 514.
Suberlaehe 131.
Sublime, Point 364.
Subra, Cab. de 179.
Suehet, Le 487.
Suets, Roc de 393.
Sum^ne 419.
Superbaga^es 170.
Surg^res 8.
Sur-les-Bois 336.
Suaa 344.
Susanfe, Alp 391.
Suaon, CoL de 138.
-, Pont 131.
Sylans, Lae de 383.
Sylve Benite, La 349.
Tabue, Vallon du 397.
Tabuehet, Glacier da8d5.
Taehe, Puy de la 336.
Taeonnaz, Olae. de 388.
Tacttl, Moni-Blano du
398. 300.
— , Glae. du 30a
Taillat, La 366.
Taillebourg 17.
Taillefer, the 368.
Taillon, the 153.
— , Col du 153.
Tain 433.
Talais 54.
Tal^fre, Aig. de 301.
— , Col de 301.
— , Glae. de 301.
Talizat 867.
Tallard 373.
Talloires 832.
Tamaris 468. 467.
Tamboine 336.
Tami^, Col de 327.
Tanargue^ the 411.
Taney 291.
Taninges 393. 388.
Tannerie, Pont dela358.
Tanneverge, Pie d6 393.
309
— , Col de 384. 309.
Tanus 107.
Tarare 204.
TaraMon 178. 437.
Tarbes 136.
Tardes, Viadue de la 342.
Tardets 119.
TarentaiSB, Ibe 396.
Tarn, the 71. 95. 96. 106.
. 107. 868.
— .Canon, or Gorges du
Tarnesque 350.
Tartaret, the 236.
Tartas 61.
Tattone 600.
Taussae, Plateau of 109.
Taas^ai 58.
Tausfe, Pie de la 188.
Tayera 609.
TaTemeltes, Les 344.
TaTignaao, the 606. 514.
TaroleUa 605.
Tech, the 187. 190. 193.
-, Le 193.
Teghime, CoUe di 513.
Teioh. Le 58.
Tell, Le 406. 410.
Tmple, Col de la 889.
Glacier and Pie de la
. 393.
Tenaison. Habert de 858.
Tenay 384.
INDfiX.
546
Tenein 905.
Tenda 488.
— , Col di 488.
Tenne verge, Pie and Col
de 996.
Tercis 63:
Termignon 343.
Terrasse, La 905.
Terrasses, Les 394. 396.
Terre-Nolr* 244.
Terres-Froides 348.
-^ Maudiies 989.
Tessonni^res 96.
Teate, La. 58.
Tgte-ii-rAne 994.
— Blanche 306.
— de-Cfaied 492.
— Noire (Savoy) 987.
iSwitMrland) 306.
— Rottsse, Olaeier de
300.
Thabor, Mont and Pie du
315. 316.
Than, Btang de 105.
Th^dirae-Peyrillea 88.
TheoU, the 38.
Th^oule 461. 475.
Thesee 39.
Theya 365.
Thiers 247.
Thi^zae 256.
Thiviers 39.
Thizy 904.
Tbdnes 396.
Thonon-les-Bains 969.
Thor, Le 436.
Thorame-Haute 404.
Thorene 476.
Thorens 390.
Thoronet 458.
Tbouars 15.
Thonet, the 14. 15. 99.
Thu^fl, Bains de 189.
— de-Llar 189.
Thouvi^re , Valley and
Col de la 334. 335.
Thuet 286.
Thneytfl 411.
Thviile, La 306.
Thuiles, Le.s 374.
Thuille, La 389.
Tbures, Col de* 816.
Thurin, Ohal. of 831.
Tiffauges 8.
Tign68 382.
-, Lac de 383. 833.
Tillet, Ool du 169.
Timozzo 510i •
Tinee, La 486.
Tinea, Lea 907.
Tiretaine, the 218.
Tiaaours, Lea 299.
Titan, He da 470.
Baedeker. Southern France.
Tocane-St-Aplre 41.
Toilliea, Tite des 374
400.
Toirac 94.
Tondu, Col du Mont 309.
Tonnay-Chapente 9^
Tonneins 68.
Torfou-Tiflfauges 8.
Torino, Kifugio 306.
Toro, Trou du 173.
Torretta 483.
Tort, Lac 181.
Tortes, Col de 196.
Tone, Cab. de 157.
Toitet-de-Beail 486.
— de-rEacar^e 488.
Toulon 464.
TouloQM 73.
Academies 79.
AU^e St. Michel 80.
Allies Lafayette 76.
Basain de 1 Emboucfa.
78.
Boulingrin 80.
Canal de Brienne 78.
— du Midi 76.
Cathedral of St.fitienne
80
Capitole 76.
Chap, de rinquis. 80.
Ch&tean d'Eau 79<
Church of La Dalbade
79.
La Daarade 78.
the Jacobine 78.
Notre- Dame-la-
Blanehe 79.
St. Etienne 80.
St. Satumin, or
St. Semin 77.
College St. Raymond
77.
Donjon 77.
Egliae dea CordeHera
— du Taur 77.
Orand-Bosd 8a
Hospice et Joaeph-de-
la-Grave 79.
Hotel d'Aes^at 79.
— de Berauy 7a
Clary 79.
Fleyres 79.
Vllle 76
— Dieu-St-Jacqnes 79i
— Felzina 79.
— La»bordes 79.
— St-Jeaii 79
Jardin des PI antes 80.
— Royal 80.
Lye^e 78.
Maison de Pierre 79
Moulin du Bazaele 78.
4th Edit*
Toulouse :
Moulin du Chdteau 78.
Muade des Beaux-Arts
80.
Museum of Industrial
Art and Antiquities
77.
— of Natural Hist. 80.
Obelisk 76.
Observatory 76.
Palais de Justice 80.
Place du Salin 80.
— Lafayette 78.
Pont Neuf 78.
Protestant Church 78,
Railway Stations 73.
Statue of CtOas 80.
— of Riquet 76.
Thtffttre du Capitole
77.
Town Libra> y 78.
Veterinary College 76.
Tour, Le 811. 308.
-, Aig. de la 999.
— , Aig. du 908.
— , Col du 308.
-, Glac. du 308 311.
Toura, Tete du 882.
Tour-d^Aigues, La 444.
- de-Carol, La 181.
r- du-Pin, La 348.
Tourette, La 483
Tour-Fondiie, La 470
Touring Club, Ref. 401.
Tourini, Col de 488.
Tourmalet, Col and Pic
du 169.
Tournabout, Pont de 157.
Tourne, Col de la 334.
Toumefort, Aub. de 162.
Tournemire 958.
Tournette (Anneey) 324.
(TarentaSae) S&.
Tournoel, Ch&t. 211.
Tour-Noir, the 307.
Tournon 407.
— St. Martin 3.
Tournoux, Fort 374.
Tournus 196
Tourrettea 485.
Toura 3.
Tourvea 448.
Toutea-Aurea, Col de 404.
Touvftt, Le 366.
Touzon, Chat, de 436.
Trabueeh, Vallon du 372^
Traeens, Lac de 15&
Trameaaigues 198.
Trana 459.
Traverse, Pte 401.
Traversette, Col de la 40U
Tray as, Le 461.
Trfebes 101.
35
546
lSf£^BJ^u
Tr^bons 170.
Tr^gOB, Case, de 171
Tireignae^
Treize-Arbres 285.
Tr^Utdte, Ool de.d09.
— ,.P»J?M <3'lao., and'Aig
de 302. 304.
Trdlod, the 319. 324.
Tremblade, La 19.
Trj^moolUeiiLa 9.
TrentftlSnLadigiiae 84
Trept 240.
Tr^sanne 372.
Tresaft 302.
TrttBsetva 313. 318.
— , GelliBede 320.
Trets 447.
Treuilv Tour du 366. .
Treves 267.
Tr^votix 197..
Tvicberie, La 4«. '
Tricot, Aig. and <Dol.4.u
302. . .
Triage, Govgefl idu 309,
Trient 309..
— , tbe 309. .e.' • •
-, Col de-'309. i
-, . Odiu^ da 308. 309. 310;
— , Gdrgefl ,du 393; -
Trifeves^ the 371. ....
Triggione, Ko&t. di 6X0,
TriUers, Lea .243.
TrimouillevLa 9.
Trinity- Victor, La .488. .
Trinquataille 438.
Triolet, Aig. de 301. 307.
— ^ Col de 801- ; ... .
Tri<iu«at 309. .. .
Troi8-Goavonne«. 117
— Croix 409 ...
— Dentfl, Pic dei 345, i
— EvSchea, Pie de8i397.
— Pudeiles 856,
Trompeloup 54i> • > i
Tronche, La 854. .a60.
Tronchet. Col A^ 394.
Tronget 30O.i
Troumouse,. Cirqua-and
Pic de 156. ...
Truel, Le 367. ..
Tsanteleina 886.
TuelMtt,. Col 398.
— , Ref. 39L 392. 895.
TtjJlfc 249. :-
Tuning. 356. - i
TttqtteroQye,£ah. , Borne;
and Brfechtt de 153 .
Turbat, Pic de.364,>a84i
— , eol ;de 383. 384.
3Cwbia,>or •
Turbie, La 493. 403.486.
Turenne 93.
Turmea Hut 1174" .•
liinnon^ aoizffre de 173.
Turres 401.
t '• I
',' . I
Ubaye 314. . .
Ubayette^ the J^ii. .
Ueciani 509.
Uehizy 196.
Ugines 334. 335. .
Urdos 133. ;. ., . .
— , Fort d' 132. ... , .
— , Port d' 132.
Ureta, Port d'; 175. •
Uriage 356..'. .■ .
Urine^Val. and Col d' 401 .
Urrugne 116,
Usaac 87. •'.»•;
Ussat-les-Baina lZ9i.>- -..
KJsaeglio 846. .
UB861 249v :'
XJBson 183. j
Oftarikz 66; .^
tJtelle 487.
pza 61. '
lUzerohe i^i. .(( ,•
tJzea 409. . ;. • . ,
Uaioa8,Coi and JUa«.dUa6.
Pzore, Mont d' 247.
YaehQ, Ool de la 336. .
Vachea,'JLae dw 339, .
VR6be4te, La 377,
Vailly 289.
Vai«on>A37.<< .<
Valaiaan, .Hont 306.
Vaiib«ju>K)e 346-.
yalbonnaia 36$.
Vaieaffea^ <S«ang de 441.
Valeartos 66.
Valdeblore 488.
Vial-dea-Pfca 377. .
— d'la^re 333.
.Valdoniello 505i.
Vftldottne'458.
Valenfay 32.
Valence 433w>
Val-Eati^cho, Ool d« 364.
Valeii^l-BourdeiUea 41.
Valeyrae 66.
ValfaudenMT 863.
— , ChapaUeren 364.
Valgorge .411. >
Valgriaanehe 331.
Valhombri^e, Habert 358.
yaiiiMq.,attif of.srr.
Valjouffrftj' 363* •
VallaoAe, Col 4a ,401,
Vallauria- 461„ 474^
ViaUe. d*Ateaa»i M4»
Vallee Blanche 399.
— Etroite 318. . 377. . 1 1*5
,.Col dela.316.
iValleiry 386.. . . :,. ...
ValleraugQe 4Jft, , .
Valleapir, the •!%!.
Valloire m.
— , Oombe de 367.
Vallon (Ard^ehe> 411.
— (Bourb.) 343i .
—, the 343. 347. ..
— , Brecha dn 38a
— ;,!Ciine du 684..
-, Olaeier du 888. 388
— , HoQiagne dn 397.
— , Pointe or Croix du
ooo. . ,>
— Long, Sommeti du 374.
— Obaeur 483.
Vallonet, «lac, du 347.
:— , Pointe du.<Arc) 344.
— - (Pralogaan) 340.
Vallot, Eefuse 300.
VaUoniae 390. 375.
— , Col de 398.
Valmtinier 31Q.
Valorcine 306
ValjNheveyrev, Combe da
Valriaa 435!
Valromay 288.
Valaeneatre 368.
— , Brfeche de 380.
— , Pio de 363,
Valaerine, the 283.
Vala-la-B^guie 410.
— lea-Baina 410.
Vane 115. ^
Vaselse, Aig. de .la 339.
— , Col and Bef. de la 340.
3434 . . (• ,
— , Glacier de la 340.
Vana, Lea 41ft.
Var, 462. 484. .
-, the 404. 463. 484. 486.
-^ Departm. of the4&9.
Varaea 360. i
Varennes*aur-Allier 303 .
Varena, Ai«. de 387.
Vareta 871,
Varilhea 178.
Vara (Angoumoia) 10.
— (Hautea Alpos) 389.
— , Col and Baf. de 399.
Vaaina, iA 618.
VasalM^res 336.
Vauelaire, Cojsrent of 4d.
Vaucluae 436.
— , Departm. ^of 480.
-, FtMlt. a« 436.
Vaudain^, .araBde|367..
— , Petite 8004
Vaudelnay^'Le 39,
Vaudoia, Mur dea 376.
— Valleya 401.
Vaugnaray 340.
Vaugria(4a3.
'. I . .li .1
J
Vaulnaveys j368.
— , Valley of 867.
Vaare, OvI de la 863.
Vauvert 41&
Vaxivler, ih6 864. 880.
Vayrac 88.
Vayres 14.
Veauee, Ghat. 341.
V^bre, Vallee de la 424«
V^bron 263.-
Vecehlo fiOB.
Vefrette, Gol and Glaei«v
de 345. 347.
Vclaux 429. ^ •
Velay 212.
Velluire 22.
Venaeo 509.
y^asquft 174..
— , Bains de 174.
— , Col de 373.
— , Hosp. A Port de 172.
Vence 485.
— , Col de 360.
Vendue, La 21. 30.
— , the 22.
Venelles 444.
Ven^on, the 380.
Vcni, Val 304.
Venose 380.
— , Aig. de 380.
Vensac 54. >
Ventelon 396.
Venthon 327.
Ventimiglia 464.
Ventoux, Mont 437.
Verehaix 293.
Vercheny 424,
Verdelais 67.
Verdet, Lacs 332.
Verdon, Le 54.
— , the 404.
— , Canal du 444.
—, Croix de 338.
Verdonne, Pic de 391
Verdun, Mont 340.
Verel 323.
Vergio, Colle di 506.
Vergons 404.
Vergy, the 286.
Verjux 195.
Vernaison, Gorges de la
362.
Vernay, Pont de 16,
Vemayaz 292.
Vernaz, Col de 291.
Vemazobres, the, 108.
Verne, La 471.
Vernet, Le 188,
— d'Arifege, Le 177.
Verney, Le 343.
-, Lac de 306.
Vemi^re, Case, de la 222.
225. •'
VernioUe 178.
' Verrerie, La 4TO.
/ Versannes 82,
.' Vert, Lac 171.
-, Pic 363.
Vevthfimil 64.
Vertolaye 213. .
Vertou 20. • '
Verts, Col des 887. .
Verzeille 182.
Vescovatcy 614. •
Vesone, Tour 41. .,
V^sonne 324.
Vesubie, La 486.
— , the 486. 487.
Veynes 371. 373. 403. .
Veyrier 333. 331.
-, Le 400.
— , Montagne de 336.
V^zac 83.
Vezenobres 413.
V^zfcre, the 83. 86. 87.
V^zeronce, the 384.
Vial, Mont 486.
Viam 38.
Vianne 69.
Vias 106.
Vic 176.
Vicdessos 179.
Vic-en-Bigorre 61.
— le-Comte 211.
— sur-Cfere 356.
Vichy 305.
Vico 506.
Vidauban 469.
Vieilleville 243.
Vielle-Adour 169.
— Aure 128.
Vienne 420.
-, the 4. 9. 13. 15. 28,
38. 86.
Vierzon 32.
Viescamp - sous - Jalles
88
Vieux, Col 400. 401.
— Chaillol 373.
— Poitiers 4.
Vifeze, the 291.
Vif 371.
Vigan, Le 419.
Vigen, Le 86.
Vigeois 87.
Vigneaux 375.
Vignemale, the 147. 154.
— , Col & Oulettes du 146.
Vignes, Les 265.
Vignet, Befuee 376.
Vigni&res 326.
Vignola 603.
Vignols-St-Solve 87.
Vigny 390.
VUlair 306.
IVfllandraut 6t.
547
Villanua 132.
Villar-St-Pancraee 376.
Villard (Daupl»iny) 390.
— (Sawy) 3^8. 340.
-, Dent de 838.
— d'Arene 370. 393.
— de-Beaufort 327.
— de-Laiwi-361.
— Loubi^re 364.
— NotrehDame 380.
— Salellea, Le m
VillardB, Lea 336.
Villaret 265.
Villarly 330.
Villarodln 348.
Villarogdr 331.
Villars 205. •
— da-Var 486.
Villaz 338.
Villecelle 109.
Villecomtal - sur - Arms
85
Villedaigne 101.
Villedieu, La 72.
Villefort 268.
Villefranche (Saone) 197.
- d*Allier 198.
- de-Conttent 188.
- de-Lauraguais 98.
- de-Rouergue 95.
- du-Perigord 8i.
- sur-Cher 32.
- sur-Mer 462. 484.
Villefranque 66.
Villelaure 443.
Villemagne 109.
Villemur 106.
Villenave 151.
Villeneuve (Basses-Al -
pes) 443.
- (Dauphiny) 357,
- CHtes-Alpes) 338,
-, Bocher de 339.
- de-Berg 410.
- Us-Avignon 435.
- les-Beziers 106.
- l^s-Maguelone 275.
Pujaut 406.
sur-Allier 198.
■ sur-Lot 68.
Villenouvelle 98.
Villeperdue 3.
Villepey, Etang de 471.
Villette, La 3M. 330.
Villeurbanne 340.
Ville-Vallouise 390.
Villeveyrac 110.
Ville-Vieille 400,
Villiers-Vouill^ 8.
Vinaigre, Mont 461.
Vinaigrier, the 484
,Vinay 365.
Vfnca 187.
36*
548
INBSX.
Vindrae 95.
Vilitimille 464.
Vlolen*, IHiy S65.
Virieu-le-Orftxid 284.
— sur-Bourbre 349.
Viry 386.
Vis, the 419.
Visaing, Oantine de
Viscos, Pie d« 149.
Viso, Monte 403.
Visolotto, the 408.
VitroUes 439.
vm 348.
Viuz-en-Sallftz 3^.
Vivarais, the 410.
Vivario 009.
Viviers (Savoy)- 319.
— sur-Bhdne 4(08.
la
ViTiez 110.
Vivonne W.
Vlx 33.
Vizille 368. .
Vizzavona 509.
— , CoUe di 509. 604.
Vococour, Chit. 39.
Vogealle 391.
Vogu^ 410.
- Vals 410.
Voiron 349. 368.
Voirons. the 389.
Volvic 311.
Volx 443. 443.
Vonne, the 8.
Voreppe 360.
Vorz, Ch&t^de 365;
Voagy 386.
Vottille 8,
507.
jVonltefon 8.
Vouvry.aW.
Voza, Col db 301.
Vuache, Mont 386.
Vttzelle, Pointe BSB.
Ycboux 60.
Ydes 343:
Yeu, Ue d* 3T.
Yret, Bocher de T 396.
Yssac-la-Tourekte 311.
Ysfisgeaux. 351.
Ytrac 357.
Yzeure 300.
Zerbazi^re 311.
Zieavo 607.
Zsigmondy, Br^ehe 386.
Printed by F. A. Brockhaus at Leipfie.
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