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On. 


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rr 


THB 

STATISTICAL   ACCOUNT 

or 

SCOTLAND: 

DRAWN  UP  FROM  THE  COMMUNICATIONS 


MINISTERS 

or  TBE 

DIFFERENT   PARISHES. 


By  Sir  JOHN  SINCLAIR,  Bart. 

" = flfc      ■  '■         ■  ■>■« 


VOLUME  FIFTEENTH. 

**  Adconjiiium  ie  republicadanduniy^aput  eft  nojfe  r^mpuhlicam^^ 

....       Cicero,  de  Oiult.  lib.  ii; 


EDINBURGH  i 

PRINTRD  AND  SOLD  BY  WILLIAM  CREECH  ; 

AND  ALSO  B7  J.  DONALDSOK,  A.  GUTMRIB|   W.  LAING,    AND  JO. 
FAIRBAtRN,  EDINBURGH  ;    T.  CADELL,    J.  DEBRETT,  AND 
J.  SEWELLy  LONDON  \   DUNLOP  AND  WILSON,  GLASGOW  J 
ANGUS  AND  SON,   ABERDEEN.  ' 


M,Dcc,xcr; 


1 

\ 
> 


nH6Z 


CONTENTS. 


1.  Lanark 

2.  Shotts 

3.  Lochwinnoch 

4«  Twyneholm  &  Kirk-Chrift 

5.  Urquhart 

6*  Oync 

7.  Rayne 

8*  Elirkbean  / 

9.  St  Fergus 

10.  Dollar 

11.  Mordington 

1 2.  Tillicoutlry 

13.  Benholme 

14.  Monzie 

15.  Dalgety 

16.  Baldcrnock        .    - 
17-  Longfide 

18.  South  Ronaldfay  &  Burray 

19.  Campfi^ 

20.  Stronfay  and  Eday 

21.  Glencrofs 

22.  Alford 

23.  Kilbarch^H; 

24.  Earkmichael 

25.  Rcdgortcn 

26.  Kirknoabreck 

27.  Bcdrulc 

28.  FoulisWcftcr 
29*  Avoch 

Totals, 


Increafe  in  1792-49 


Fopulciion  in  1755.  in  1791-4. 


2294 

2322 

S»9 
1110 

640 
1131 

529 
1271 

5'7 
181 

787 
1367 
1192 

761 

7S5 
1979 

^954 

1400 

+  1015 

557 
990 

1485 
2689 
1074 
858 
297 
1706 

MS7 


34i3^7 


475 » 

2041 
2643 

620 
1050 

630 

1173 
660 

1240 
510 

335 
909 

'557 
1136 

869 

620 

1792 

1954 

2517 
887 

38s 

2506 

2200 
2x23 
1088 

259 

224 

1380 


Jncrea, 

MSI 


39,692 
34.367 


5*3255325 


1083 
101 


42 
13' 


154 
122 
190 


108 


1117 


1021 


1049 

i3o 


7805 
2480 


Deer. 
2ffl 


60 
10 


3' 

7 


56. 


135 
187 


128 

172. 

327 
489 


38 
482 

7 


Page. 

c 

49 

65 

75 

9i 

105 

no 

ii9 

•34 

'55 

'73 

189 

217 

241 

2,60 

271 

282 

298 

i«4 

387 

4JJ 

447 
482 
506 

5  23 
J43 
?5^ 
594 


2480 


*  Tbii  ii  fuppofed  (b  be  the  popobtion  in  IJSS' 
t  Thii  wu  tbc  population  mini. 


ERRATA, 


18^  fir  1814  Ttdil1%^     - 

9,  —   coaft  read  pariilu 
axy  -—  Rothiayr^Ku/Rattrty. 
30,    —  AOchines  rtai  Anchirict. 
25,   ^ftew  illam  add  medietatem. 
6,  ftr  Z900  rtad  400  barrels. 
28,  —  reprinted  rtad  nprinted  AA«« 
J  I'a,  •—  his  right  rud  her  ri^t, 
.  pem.  ^  Foxbat  read  TorboL 
.  32,  —  fparrsr^o^  parrs. 
.    18,  —  Garrick  rrotf  Carrick. 
17,  -»  Dartick  rtad  Partick. 
Xy  —  proprietors  rt^d  tenantit 
I,   •-•  7th  readlA* 
33»  •—  fizty  rff«^  fix. 
6,  «*  I  rroi  !•  hfirt  XdO* 
a8,  —   17  ready 
%j  —   179*  »'«*' I7W* 

,^ ^^j  XI   —  no  read  X50, 

—  368  ——  a6,  r#a(/  York  Building  Company. 
«...  36^  .-.^     3, /or  Sunday  r<a^  Saturday, 

,, 373  8.  -  a8  read  38. 

.         376         I     9,  —  a  few  read  few.  , 

...^.i^  377  ...«.  x8,  — ^  balked  rr«tf  baked. 
-,—  379  —   04,   —  X793  read  If 0$. 
^_  558  — —   a7,  —  Toner  readTowa^^ 


THE 

STATISTICAL   ACCOUNT 

I 
OF 

^^OTLAND. 

t»  A  R  T    XV* 


..V.  NUMBtRI. 

PARISH    OF   LAl^ARt; 

(Countj^  and  presbyter  J  of  Lanark^  and  Synod  of  Qlai^ 
gow  and  -^jr.) 

Bt  Mr.  WILLIAM  LOCKHARt  op  Baronald. 

Situation^  Eiient^  and  Surf  at  e^ 

1  HIS  PariiDi  is  situated  in  the  fhire  and  presbytery  ct 
Lanark,  and  Synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr  ;  is  between  4 
atid  5  miles  in  length  stretching  along  the  Eastern  bank 
of  the  Clyde,  and  about  th^ee  in  breadtb^  The  genera- 
lity of  the^arifli  consists  of  pretty  flat  and  improvable 
lanS ;  but  along  tl^  Clyde  ftom  Bonniton^fall  down*^ 
Ivatd^  for  the  space  of  more  than  3  miles^  the  banks  ar^ 
high,  precipitous,  and  rocky,  which  however  are  pretty 
generally  fringed  with  natural  wood  and  planting.     TImi 

banki 
Vol.  XV.  A 


I 


I  o  Statistical  Account 

\ 
1 

'.  banks  of  the  Moufs,  the   only  other   river  of  any  siie^ 

and  which  running  from  East  to  West,  separates  thd 
parifli  into  two  distinct  parts,  are  equally  precipitous 
an^  rocky,    but  also   clothed   with  natural   wood,    and 

I  plantatiot.s  of  forest  trees. 

j  The  highest  ground  in  the  parilh,  for  there  is  no  hill, 

is  Lanark  and  Lee.  moors,  both  b&j^^j^retty  equal  in 
height,  and  about  760   feet  above  sea-AVel.     The  town 

I  of  Lanark  itself  is  6^6  feet  5  inches  above  the  quay  at  the 

new  bridge  of  Glasgow. 

The  parilh  may  contain  above  6000  acres.     There  are 

'  probably  upwards  of  600  acres  of  coppice  wood  and  plan- 

^  tations,  and  1800  acres  o\  moor  ground,  which  leaves  a- 

I  *  bout  3600  acres   for  cultivation.     The    moory  grounds, 

which  also  contain  some  little  mofs,  belong  to  two  differ- 
ent proprietors.  Lanark  moor,  consisting  of  about  1500 
acrrs,  is  the  property  of  the  community :  and  Lee-moor 
consisting  of  about  300  acres  belong!  to  the  estate  of  Lee. 
About  50  years  ago  the  magistrates  of  Lanark,  let  to  th6 
inhabitants  of  the  burgh  on  leases  of  57  years,  several 
small  lots,  at  the  extremity  of  their  moor  or  common,  at 
ffom  6d.  to  IS.  8d.  per  acre,  with  the  view  of  getting 
them  inclosed  and  improven;  but  the  distance  from  town, 
about  two  miles,  and  other  circumstances,  prevented 
snuch  improvement  from  being  made  upon  them :  such 
lots  however  as  were  situated  nighest  the  town,  and  have 
been  kept  tcnciblc,  now  let  from  los.  to  aos.  per  acre. 
About  20  years  ago,  the  town  planted  about  60  acres  of 
this  moor,  iritostly  with  Scots  pines^  which  are  in  a  very 
thriving  condition  ;  and  their  seeds,  scattered  by  the  wind 
have  of  late  produced  a  natural  and  extensive  crop  of 
young  pines  in  the  moor. 

.  William  Honcyflaan  of  Grflemsay '  Esq.  Advocate,  has 
Utciy  feucdfrom  the  magistrates  between  1  and  300  acres 

o£ 


ff  Lanark^  ^ 

of  this  moor. at  5s,  per  acre  j  and  has  begun  to  plant*** 
tfnd  improve  It,  so  that  what  formerly  afforded  a  small 
pittance  to  a  few  half-*starved  cattle,  will  sooo  be  enabled 
to  maintain  families.  The  expences  he  has  been  at  are  al- 
ready very  considerable,  but  do  not  intimidate  him  front 
being  still  willing  to  pofsefs  and  improve  more  of  it, 
which  although  beneficial  to  the  manufactures  of  Lanark^ 
tfnd  to  the  nation  at  large,  is  opposed  by  a  few  burgefseSf 
who  say  that  they  have  an  immemorial  right  of  servitude 
upon  this  moor  for  the  pasturage  of  a  certain  number  of 
cattle,  and  for  fuel,  feal,  and  divot ;  and  therefore,  that 
it  cannot  be  disposed  of  without  being  liable  to  such  bur- 
dens,— as  to  which  vident  jurisconsulti ;  but  it  must  be 
matter  of  great  regret  to  every  well-wiftier  of  his  country 
to  see  so  great  an  extent,  of  improTable  ground  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  a  populous  and  manufacturing  town, 
abandoned  to  heath  and  bent-grafi. 

Lee-moor]  is  in  the  like  rude  and  uncultivated  state,  al- 
though equally  improvable,  and  much  nearer  to  coal  and 
lime,  than  the  former.^  This  however  is  the  fault  of 
the  proprietor,  or  rather  owing  to  that  bane  of  all 
improvementi  an   entailed   estate  *.     It  is  couiyiderably 

Icls 


*  He  hn  planted  iboat  So  teres  with  Scots  pme,  larch,  beech,  ash,  ficc: 
%  In  travelling  throagh  Scotland,  whenever  the  stranger  meets  with  any 
lirge  portion  of  improvable  land  in  a  state  of  nature,  he  may  rest  satis- 
fied that  the  ground  is  either  under  a  strict  entail,  or  that  the  proprietor  has 
an  overgrown  estate.  In  fliort  the  fact  is  so  glaring,  that  for  the  good  of 
society  and  the  nation  at  large,  it  were  to  be  wiflicd,  that  some  measure 
could  be  thought  of  either  to  oblige  such  proprietors  to  improve  those 
grounds  themselws,  or  to  feu  or  sell  them  by  public  roup,  at  least  to  let 
them,  to  people  willing  to  improve  them,  on  such  terms  as  may  be  fixed  by  the 
Board  of  Agriculture  lately  cstablxilicd,     Suth  a  plan  \vould  so«n  bring  the 

country 


4  Statistical  acfoui/t 

lets  in  extent  than  I^ntrk-moor,  sod  theoce  wpuld  re^ 
^ire  lefs  expeace  to  bring  it  lender  tillage :  It  is  to  be 
kpped  however  from  the  promising  appearance  of  the 
jQung  proprietor,  that  it  will  soon  be  broagbt  into  a  state;. 
of  cultivation  apd  improvement. 

The  South  and  East  parts  of  the  parifh,  excepting  the 
burrow  lands,  which  consist  of  a  rich  loam,  are  in  gene- 
ral inclined  to  be  light  and  gravelly.  The  estates  of  Lee, 
Cleghom,  Terviswood,  the  Namphlars,  and  the  rest  of 
the  parilh,  consist  of  a  very  improvable  clayey  soil,  a- 
dapted  for  wheat,  provided  fhere  were  spirit  enough  in 
fhe  country  to  promote  the  erection  of  a  flour  mill ;  but, 
as  at  present  there  is  no  flour  mill  nearer  than  Hamil« 
ton,  12  n^iles  off,  there  is  no  encouragement  towards 
^be  culture  of  that  pro^table  and  useful  crop. 

Minerals,  There  is  nq  coal  in  the  p9rifh  hitherto  dis^^ 
covered ;  but  in  the  neighbouring  parifbes  of  Carluke, 
Carmichael,  and  Lesmahago,  there  are  plenty  of  coal-pits. 
Coal  at  Lanark  sells  in  general  at  about  3s.  or  3s.  4d.  th^ 
800  weiglit  :  Cannel  coal  from  Lesmahago  parifh,  sells 
8f  mewhat  higher,  which  being  of  a  very  bituminous  na« 

ture, 

country  under  ctilti>ation,  inci^ase  iti  population  and  manufactures,  prevent 
ip  tome  measurp  eini|r|>atioiis,  and  woulcl  have  the  tendency  of  always  pre. 
serving  peace  and  good  prder  in  thp  country.  The  greater  the  number  of 
proprietors  in  a  kingdom  $0  much  the  mot^  nuqierous  wf'di  be  the  triends  and^ 
supporters  of  its  government,  as  it  increases  the  number  of  tho^  who  arei 
materially  interested  in  its  welfare.  But  lyheneyer  thf  whole  lands  Of  a 
kingdom,  as  wa^  the  case  in  France,  are  absorbed  by  a  fe^^,  it  is  only  those 
few  that  are  more  peculiarly  interested  in  its  welfare ;  for  people,  w|^oSfc . 
property  is  in  money  or  the  produce  of  their  industry,  may  leave  the  king- 
dom at  pleasure,  and  cannot  pofsibly.  take  that  warm  interest  in  the  fate  of 
the  country  which  the  proprietor  and  colonist,  who  in  some  measurt  may 
be  said  to  be  chained  to  the  soil,  must  neceffiariiy  do. 


?f  Lonaril  5 

ttire,  and  approaching  near  to  jet,  is  used  bj  the  poorer 
aort  of  people  in  place  of  candle. 

There  is  little  or  no  freestone  in  the  pariih.  A  quar* 
Tj  has  son^e  time  ago  been  opened  in  Lee-moar ; 
one  lately  at  the  BQathonses  in  the  S.  £.  comer  of  the 
parifli ;  and  a  coarse;  kind  of  freestone  is  to  be  had  upon 
the  Monfs  op  the  Jerviswood  estate,  but  hitherto  has  been 
di^coTered  no  where  else.  Limestone  is  wrought  in  Lee« 
ipoorand  Kilncadzow  on  the  holders  of  theparifh,  in  con- 
siderable quantities ;  and  underneath  it»  is  generally 
found  a  thin  scan)  of  goal,  often  sufficient  to  bum  what  is 
dvg  our,  into  lime.  The  rocks  in  the  parifli  consist  ge- 
nerally of  a  brownifh  micaceous  moor  stone,  which  splits 
and  breaks  into  thin  pieces  unfit  for  any  thing  but  ruble 
ifork.  Clay  fit  either  for  bricks  or  pottery  work,  may 
be  had  in  several  parts  of  the  parifli. 

The  only  appearance  of  mines  is  in  Jerviswood 
grounds,  wher^  there  has  lately  been  discovered  a  thick 
seam|  of  quartz,  bafseting  out  to  the  day,  intermixed 
with  small  veins  of  rich  iron  ore,  but,  aa  such,  by  no 
means  worth  the  working.  As  however  lead  mines  fre« 
fluently  put  on  similar  appearances  at  the  top,  there  is 
no  saying  what  may  be  discovered  on  going  a  little  deep- 
cr.  Pieces  of  very  pretty  jasper  have  been  picked  iip, 
in  the  bed  of  the  M oufs,  in  detached  and  water- worn  do« 
dules  ;  as  also  great  plenty  of  ochres,  but  no  iron  stone 
excepting  about  the  coal  pits  at  GiUfoot  on  the  ikirts  of 
the  parifli.  Close  by  the  old  bridge  of  Lanark  have  been 
found  in  a  detached  and  water- worn  piece  of  limestone, 
petrified  pbohdes  and  cockle  fliells ;  which  bridge,  by 
general  Roy's  measurement,  is  36  a  feet  5  inches  above 
the  quay  at  the  new  bridge  of  Glasgow,  and  24  miles 
|istant  from  it. 


6  Statistic^  acccfun^^ 

Etymology y  Langwrge\'and  Antiqmties.  The  Damnii  of 
Fcoloxnj  among  other  counties,  roost  certainlj  pofsefsed  all 
Lanarkfiiire;  Ptolomj  however  makes  no  mention  of  the 
word  Lanark,  or  any  of  a^sitnilar  sound.  Baxter,  with 
ethers,  have  deemed  Lanark  to  t>e  the  Vgrulentuni  of  the 
anonymous  geographer  of  Ravenna,  and  not  without  some 
degree  of  probability.  Baxter's  derivation  however  of  t^^' 
ruhntum  from  the  Welfh  ugir  hni^  which  as  he  says,  sig- 
nifies ripahumidi^  vgiaquce^  is  totally  inapplicable,  to  the' 
aituittion  of  Lai^ark,  it  being  situated  on  a  dry  and  elevat-. 
ed  situation,  292  feet  i  inch  above  the  level  of  the 
Clyde.  He  is  equally  unhappy  in  his  etymology  of  Lan- 
'  ark,  which  he  derives  from  Lan  cerig^  /•  r.  ripa  fluminis,* 
this  town  not  being  situated  within  view  of  the  river,  nor 
upon  its  immediate  bank,  but  about  half  a  mile  froa\ 
it  *      .      •. 

It  is  true  we  have  a  late  author,  (Mr  Piukerton)  who, 
defends  the  fabulous  kingdom  of  the  Stfatclyde  Bri- 
tons of  Lanarkfhire,  and  the  Wellh  derivation  o£ 
Lanark  ;  but  he,  in  aid  of  his  hypothesis  is  obliged  to 
resort  to  afsertions  totally  void  of  foundation.     Thus  he 

tel^ 

*  Jenes  in  hia  oriffinof  Unguajt  and  o^tionf,  (*  wbimsicgi  boo^,)  saji^ 
that  Lanark,  "  is  the  same  as  the  Welfh  Lanercbf  an  upper  or  higher  yard  or 
**  inclo$urc*\  which  is  hardly  so  improbable  as  the  other.  Indeed  in  the 
Wcllh  language' we  find  many  etymons  such  isUanercb,  a  green  or  a  bare 
place  in  a  wood  ;  and  Lanberch,  a  forest,  as  Llayd  tells  us.  Lanercb  is  ac- 
tually the  name  of  a  lown  en  the  Clwyd  in  Walet:  and  Isn  io  WelOi  as  ix^ 
■  Gaelic^  signifies  a  church,  churchyard,  or  indosure.  Sut  the  same  Lluydl 
in  his  Wclili  preface  to  the  Arcbealogia  tells  us.  and  proves  it  pretty  clear- 
ly, that  arery  great  many  of  the  names  of  places  in  Wales  itself,  can  only 
be  derived  from  the  Gaelic,  the  Gael  being  the  original  inhabitants  of  OreaC 
Britain  as  well  as  of  continental  Gaul,  which  is  farther  proved  by  the  tracts 
publiflicd  in  1737,  by  Mr  Malcolmc,  minister  ot  Duddingston,  and  of  late 
by  the  two  Mcfsrs.  M*Phersons,  so  that  the  etymology  of  Lanark  falls  rather 
tivbr  sought  for  in  the  Gaelic  than  Welili. 


1^  Lanark.  ^ 

tells  us,*  tfaati  **  In  Clydesdale  at  present  if  jrou  wifl 
**  aik  the  cominon  people  about  anj  ancient  castle  or  tte 
^  like,  they  will  tell  it  was  ejected  by  the  Brett  or  the 
**  Piks."  Now  although  they  ascribe  some  of  their  an- 
cient buildings,  such  as  the  high  church  of  Glasgow,  to  the 
Picts,  or  Pcghsi  as  they  call  them,  yet  it  is  matter  of  noto- 
riety that  the  word  Bret  is  utterly  unknown  to  the  com- 
'0ioa  people  of 'Clydesdale.  This  he  has  advanced  nerely 
for  thepurp  oe  of  supporting  a  favourite  system,  and  t0 
mislead  in  the  same  way  that  he,  in^  former  publication, 
had  averred  that  scraps  of  the  second  part  of  his  own  Har- 
dyknute  were  sung  immemorially  by  the  common  people 
of  Clydesdale.  Mr  Pinkerton  also  avers  that  the  Ian-* 
gnage  of  this  part  of  Scotland  still  retains  something  of 
the  Wclfii  accent.  This  is  equally  groundlefe,  nor  can 
he  point  out  one  single  instance  of  it ;  and  although  nu- 
merous words  used  in  the  county  are  Gaelic,  yet  none 
are  Welfli,  unleb  in  common  with  the  Gaelic. 

Indeed  Mr  Pinkerton  in  his  edition  of  the  Vita  Sancto* 
rum  Scotia^  furniftics  us  himself  \*ith  evident  proofs  of  the 
fallacy  of  his  own  averments.  In  the  life  of  St.  Kenti- 
gcm  or  St.  Mungo  of  Glasgow,  who  flourifhed  in  580, 
collected  from  an  old  copy  in  Gaelic,  and  another  in  Latin 
by  Josceline,  about  anno  1180,  we  learn,  cap.  4,  that 
thi?  Saint  was  called  "  Kyentyren  quod  intcrpretatuc 
"  cafitalis  Dominui,''  which  is  pure  Gaelic  at  this  day  ; 
and  not  Welch.  His  other  name  of  Mungbu  "  quod 
.**  (says  Josceline)  Latine  dicitur  varus  amicus^'''*  is  not 
Wclfli  but  more  probably  Gaelic;  thus  Eun  cat^mb  may 
have  been  spelt  Munghu,  the  Gaelic  pronounccation  being 
Dretty  similar,  the  literal  signification  of  which  is  Dear 
^      ^  bii'd 

#^lnquiry  into  the  hist,  of  Scotland,  tol.  1,  p^  81. 


%  Statistical  accovUnt 

,  Urd ;  and  dear  bird,  or  my  bird,  is  Still  used  &iiiiliarly 
to  a  young  friend  or  youths  whiah  KffQtigern  was  when  hd 
received  that  epithet  from  St.  Servanus  the  Picti/b  Abbot 
of  Culrofs.  In  cap.  xu  we  learn  that  Glasgow^  formerly 
Cuthures^  was  in  the  Saint's  time,  from  the  monastery 
therein  situated^  called  **  DescbUf  quod  interpretatar 
f<  eara  familial  Neither  is  this  Welfli: — But  the  Gae- 
lic words  Paiide'caomb,  L  e.  dear  children  6r  family^  have 
nearly  in  that  language  the  sound  of,  and  may  liave  been 
spelt  Descbu^  in  that  early  age»  in  the  same  way  that  lies* 
cbu  is  now  pronounced  and  spelt  Glasgow.  And  in  cap* 
xxii.  we  learn  that  the  JSurHf  a  Gaelic  word  used  in  this 
county  for  rivulet,  and  at  present  called  Mokniinar^ 
that  runs  by  the  High  Church  of  Glasgow  and  behind 
die  College  garden,  was  called  MolUndowor  in  the  Saint's 
time.  Now  muiUan  b  a  mill  in  Gaelic,  and  dombat 
signifies  water ;  from  which  it  is  evident,  that  the  Ian* 
guage  of  Glasgow  in  Kentigem's  time^  was  not  Welifa» 
but  pure  Gaelic ;  and  that  at  this  early  period  the  Mo« 
lendinor  burn^  as  it  now  does,  drove  a  milL* 

-Such 

*  We  fliall,  in  farther  proof^)  and  to  illustrate  the  language  of  this  pariOi 
nod  cofonty,  adduce  some  words,  among  many  hundreds,  that  might  be 
mentioned,  which  are  pure  Gaelic.  Thus  Bink^  a  stone  or  gMen  lod  of 
seat  before  a  door,  is  pu^e  Gaelic.  CmmU  a  cow  With  crooked  horns,  also 
a  crooked  nick,  from  Cromadb  bended^  Body^  a  clown  or  silly  person,  B9^ 
dacb.  P/nrib,  a  carbuncle  on  the  face,  P/wroM.  £«r»rA»  a  chicken,  Eirag  ^ 
Stoek-in-b^m^  a  pipe  with  a  horn  used  by  the  fliepherds,  from  Stoc  a  pipe, 
Kinnu^,  a  Rabbit,  Coitmin.  Brock,  a  Badger;  Broc.  Brat,  1  cover  or  seuif  «• 
also  a  piece  of  cloth,  Sr*t,  To  toom,  empty,  Ta^mairu  To  iti^i  orercome^ 
]>Mgmn.  GUir,  puddle  or  filth,  Ca^n  IngU^  the  fire,  Aimgeal.  Gairtam 
farter,  Gairtam,  Jrrosit,  gooseberry,  Gtotaid.  Gir/£ar,  a  gully hole^  Guitar ^ 
Saggis,  a  dilh,  Taiggis,  Inch,  invariably  used  for  an  isloid,  Imnje  or  Jmus^ 
ebubam,  a  village,  Clacban.  Locb,  a  Lake,  Locb,  CarameiU  or  Caparcile* 
the  oiobas  tvbcrosvs,  being  the  r«ot  so  much  used  t»  diet  bf  the  ancient 

Caledonian* 


of  Lanark.  9 

Such  being  the  case,  and  as  la  Lanarkffiire  there  are  n6 
Welsh  words  in  use,  except  such  as  are  in  common  with 
the  Gaelic,  we  may  venture  to  affirm  that  the  Stratcljde 
kingdom  of  Cunibric  Britons  is  a  mere  dream  ;  and  that 
to  derive  our  proper  names  from  the  Cumbric  is  idle. 
Indeed  we  cannot  resort  to  the  WelQi  language  for  the 
etymon  of  Lanark,  seeing  we  have  a  Lanark  in  Stirling- 
ihire,  where  no  Cumbric  Britons  were  ever  settled  ;  and  a 
Drum-Lanark  and  Lanarkland  in  Dumfriesfhirc,  also 
without  the  bounds  of  the   fabulous  Stratclyde  kingdom- 

Lanatk,  or  as  locally  pronounced  Lanerick,  or  Lande^ 
rick,  is  therefore  more  probably  Gaelic.  Lan^  in  Shaw's 
dictionary,  signifies  land,  a  house,  repository,  or  a 
church.  Dearc  is  the  Gaelic  for  the  Billberry,  or  Blae- 
berry, so  common  on  high  and  dry  grounds.  Landerick^ 
or  Lan  na  dearca^  appears  therefore  to  denote  the  land, 
house,  repository,  or  church  of  the  Billberries.  Lan 
dearcach  signifies  also  Billberry  land  or  repository,  pretty 
descriptive  of  all  the  Lanarks.  But  farther,  Lan  arc 
signifies  a  full  ark,  or  granary,  and  Lanark  is  spelt  Lan- 
arc  in  the  old  charters,  so  Lan  arc  may  be  the  true  ety- 
mon. These  etymons,  though  probable,  may  not  be 
just,  yet  are  Icfs  liable  to  obje'  tion  than  any  former  one  ; 
iior  would  we  have  dwelt  so  long  upon  this  article,  had 
we  not  wiihcd  to  remove  the  mist  attempted  to  be 
thrown,  by  the  author  above-mentioned,  over  the  histo* 
ry  of  Clydesdale. 

All  the  other  nanies  of  the  parifli  are  Anglo-saxon,  un- 

iefs  wc  except  Cartlane,  Baronald  or  Baronel,  Nemphlar^ 

cindum 
Vol.  XV.  B 

Caledonians,  CarameiUy  Salich  and  Sau^h,  the  Willow,  Seileach,  Kist,  a 
chest,  cisdCf  (the  C  sounding  like  K.  in  Gaelic,)  and  Kistie,  the  diminutive 
of  Kist,  Cistag.  Indeed  the  Gaelic  diminutives  are  very  common  in  thO 
l»w«r  paru  mi  Clydesdale,  as  yam9ck  ftr  little  Jame$,  Willock,  See. 


10  Statistical  account 

and  Cleghorn  ;  which  last  place  may  have  been  the  Croir* 
(iadum  of  Baxter's  Glofsarium  Antiquitat.  Brit,  as  not 
only  the  Roman  road  pafses  by  it,  but  the  remains  of 
•  Roman  station  are  still  evident  in  one  of  the  parks  to  the 
East  of  Cleghorn  house. 

The  station  or  camp  at  Cleghorn,  General  Roy  thinks 
was  the  work  of  Agricola.  It  measures  600  yards  in 
length  by  4Z0  in  breadth,  capable  of  containing  two  Re 
man  legions  on  the  Poljbian  establiflimcnt,  or  10,500 
men  ;  or  it  would  hold  one  legion  with  its  auxiliaries  on  a 
much  higher  establifliment.  Near  the  S.  W.  angle  of 
this  camp,  there  is  a  small  post  or  redoubt,  that  seems 
either  to  have  joined  to  the  camp  itself,  or  to  have  been 
connected  with  it  by  means  of  a  line. 

Oil  the  opposite  side  of  the  Moufs  from  Cleghorn,  and 
in  Lanark- moor,  was  situated  another  small  exploratory  ' 
camp  of  the  Romans  ;  and,  within  about  a  mile  of  it, 
there  is  another  of  a  later  construction  at  Castle-dykes,  in 
the  parifh  of  Carstairs,  through  which  runs  the  great 
Roman  road  from  Lugballuni,  or  Carlisle,  to  the  wall  of. 
Antoninus.*  The  Roman  foad  from  Castle-dykes  runs 
through  part  of  Lanark-moor,  thence  pafses  the  river 
Mou£i  a  little  to  the  Eastward  of  Cleghorn-bridge,  hence 
it  goes  through  the  inclosures  of  Cleghorn,  leaving  A- 
gricola's  cnmp  on  the  right,  and  so  on  by  Colly-Iaw,  Kill- 

cadzow, 

I  *  General  Roy  tells  us  that  near  the  kirk  of  Carstairs  some  remains  of  abatb 
and  other  antiquiiics  have  been  found  ;  so  that  Carstairs  may  be  the  Corda  of 
Ptolemy;  and  the  Castlcdykes  the  Coriotitar  of  the  Geographer  of  Ravenna. 
At  the  latter  place  Roman  bricks  and  coins  have  frequently  been  dug  up. 
The  late  Sir  George  Lockh?.rt  was  pofscfsed  of  some  of  those  coins,  {SUrticu- 
lariy  a  beautiful  silver  one  of  Kero^s;  an  J  within  these  few  years  a  consi- 
derable number,  mostly  of  Adiian,  were  discovered,  the  bulk  of  whicli 
I  believe  arc  now  with  ^the  Antiquarian  Society.  One  of  them  it  in  mj 
pefKftion. 


•f  Lanarh  1 1 

cadxow,  Coldstreaok  aad  Zuilfliields,  to'  Balstane  ciear 
Carluke,  bearing  the  name  of  Watling-street,  or  rather 
Biggar  road ;  and  from  thence  to  the  wall. 

About  a  mile  North  of  Lanark,  and  upon  the  verj 
brink  of  Cartlane  rocks,  on  the  North  of  the  Moofs,  are 
the  Testiges  of  an  old  stronghold,  called  by  some  Castle- 
dykes,  and  bj  others  the  castle  of  the  ^aw.  Perhaps 
from  the  Gaelic  Uaidh^  a  cave,  in  allusion  to  the  caves 
or  strange  artificial  archways  afterwards  to  be  noticed. 
There  are  still  evident  traces  of  a  wide,  or  rather  a 
double  ditch  on  the  land  side,  which  incloses  about  half 
a  rood  of  ground,  and  on  the  side  next  to  the  river  is  a 
precipice  upwards  of  200  feet  of  perpendicular  height. 
The  well  was  very  evident  about  40  years  ago,  but 
is  since  filled  up.  There  are  at  present  no  remains  of 
any  building,  excepting  some  slight  traces  like  a  foun- 
dation, and  some  artificial  caves  or  arched  ways  of  a 
very  singular  ^construction  :  one  of  them,  which  I 
saw  opened,  was  about  7  or  8  feet  in  leiigth,  and  4  fi^et 
wide,  running  in  a  bending  direction  towards  the  center 
of  the  inclosure  from  the  brink  of  the  rock ;  the  height 
about  3i  feet.  This  archway  was  composed  of  huge 
blocks  of  freestone,  rude  and  unpoli(hed,  intermixt  wit% 
the  common  moorstone  of  the  country.  It  was  not 
arched  at  top  ;  but  the  stones  laid  horizontally  one  above 
another,  still  approaching  nearer  and  nearer,  tiji  the  sides 
formed  a  junctioui  and  united  at  the  top.  In  the  bottom  of 
the  archway  was  a  fat  black  earth  intermixed  witht  some 
bones  in  the  state  of  afhcs.  Several  other  archways,  or  holes 
like  the  above,  running  in  different  directions,  still  exist, 
although  not  hitherto  explored.  The  most  remarkable 
thing  attending  these  vestiges  is,  that  no  lime  or  mortar, 
Aor  the  smallest  appearance  of  lime  rubbiih  is  to  be  found 

amon|; 


^?a  Statistical  Accauni 

among  the  ruins  \  so   must  have  been  erected  before  the 
introduction  of  mortar  bj  the  Romans. 

,  Arthur^ s  Oven,  a  Roman  work,  was  no  doubt  built 
without  mortar ;  but  this  castle,  if  a  heap  of  narrow  arch- 
ways  can  be  called  so,  seems  bj  no  means  a  Roman  work, 
as  no  tool,  nor  the  smallest  art,  has  been  used  upon  the 
freestone  employed  in  it.  I  see  by  the  Statistical  Account, 
that  subterraneous  buildings  of  a  similar  kind  have  been 
discovered  in  the  parifhes  of  Applecrofs  (vol.  iii.  p.  378.) 
and  Tealing  (vol.  iv,  p.  foi.)j  and  as  last  autumn, 
there  was  discovered  inLesmahago  parifli,  near  the  fall  of 
Stonebyres,  at  a  place  called  Cairny  Castle,  similar  arch- 
ways, in  which  were  found  two  querns,  or  hand-mills  for 
grinding  corn,  amongst  deers  horns  and  bones  of  animalS| 
I  am  led  to  believe  that  those  archways  and  subterraneous 
pafsages  were  the  temporary  abodea  of  the  ancient  Bri- 
tons ;  that  no  stone  building  was  erected  above  them,  but, 
if  any,  only  temporary  wooden  huts,  from  which, 'in 
case  of  beinff  set  on  fire  by  an  enemy,  the  inhabitants 
might  escape  through  the  subteranneous  pafsages,  or 
secure  themselves  mu  them  by  covering  their  narrow 
mouths  >vith  stones.  Indeed  it  would  seem  that  Gildas 
had  such  strange  and  fox- like  habitations  in  his  eye, 
when  he  wrote  of  the  third  vastation  of  the  Scots  and 
Picts,  (anno  448.)  as  he  brings  them,  •'  De  arctifsu 
**  mis  foraminum  cavernicuiiSf  fusci,  vermiculorum,  cu- 
*«  nei,  &c.* 

It 

*  The  next  piece  of  antiquity  ,is  the  Castlchill,  clofs  by,  and  on  the  S: 
W.  side  of  Lanark.  It  has  the  appearance  of  an  artificial  mount;  and  per* 
liaps  was  originally  fortified  by  the  Romans,  as  General  R6y  makes  mention 
of  a  fine  silver  Faustina  that  was  found  here.  Upon  this  hill  there  former* 
ly  stood  a  cnstic,  which  tradition  ascribes  to  David  I.  The  charter  by  Wil- 
liam the  Lien  in  favour  of  the  town  of  Ayr,  is  dated  from  this  castle,  vr  at 


L 


0f  Lanarkl  >  J 

It  does  not  appear  when,  or  by  whom,  the  old  parochial 
phurch  of  Lanark,  now  in  ruins,  which  stands  about  % 
quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  S.  E.  of  the  town,  was  erected.  It 
has  b^en  an  elegant  Gothic  building  of  hewn  stone,  divid- 
ed in  the  middle,  from  one  end  to  the  other,  by  a  wall  sup- 
ported upon  pillars,  forming  j  or  6  fine  arches :  and  a- 
round  it,  is  the  burial  ground  and  cemetery  of  the  town 
and  pariih.  This  church  appears  from  Blind  Harry'« 
History  of  Sir  William  Wallace,  to  have  been  the  only 
church  of  the  town  in  his  days.  Thus  a4  ann.  12971  ^^ 
makes  mention  of  Wallace  pafsing 

•*  On  from  the  kirk  that  was  without  the  town.^* 
There  is  a  charter,  noted  in  the  general  Index  of  charters, 
in  the  Signet  office,  *'  Willielmo  Clerkson  Capellano  mo- 
f*  derno  ad  altare  gloriosifsimae  Virginis  Marise,  infra 
**  ecclesiam  parochialem  de  Lanark."  Granted  by  Jamea 
iv.  and  dated  at  Lanark  i8th  October  ijoo. 

The  monastery  of  Franciscans,  or  Grey  Friars,  founded 
here  by  Robert  I.  in  13 14,  was  situated  tq  the  West  of 
the  present  parochial  church.  In  the  burial  ground  belong- 
ing to  it,  still  called  the  Friar's  yards,  there  lately  existed  a 
beautiful  conical  hill  or  tumulus,  which  has  been  recently 

takeu 

« 

Lanark,  anno  1197;  and  there  are  still  in  its  neighbourhood  places  called 
Kingtons  know,  Kingsoru  stane,  and  Kingsons  mojr,  which  favour  th«  tradi- 
tion of  its  having  been  a  royal  residence.  1  hat  it  belonged  to  the  crow^i, 
appears  from  the  negotiation  between  John  Baliol  and  Philip  of  France  in 
1198,  where  Philip  agrees  to  give  liis  niece,  the  eldest  d^iughter  of  the  Duke 
of  Anjou,  in  marriage  to  the  son  and  heir  of  Baliol :  and  in  security  of  the 
lady's  jointure,  which  was  1500!.  sterling  a  year,  Baliol  mortgaged  his  cs- 
tatcs  in  France,  and  same  of  the  crown  lands  in  Scotland,  viz.  the  Castle  and 
CastcUany  of  Lanark,  Kadzow,  Maulsley.  &c.  This  castle  was  frequently 
in  the  hands  of  the  EngUlh  during  the  13th  century,  and  I  have  seen  scvera 
coins  of  the  first  Edward  that  were  found  here.  A  bowUng  green  is  now 
erected  upon  the  site  of  the  Castle. 


^  4!  Statistical  accent 

taken  down  on  building  the  new  Inn,  in  which  a  great 
tiumber  of  human  bones  was   discovered,    particularlj  a 
*  human  scull  of  a  remarkable  large  size. 
K  A  general  chapter  of  all  the  Gre j-Friars  of  the  king* 

dom  was  held  at  this  monastery  i  rth  July  1490  ;  where 
the  Wardens  capitulary  being  afsemblcd,  they  coutirmed 
an  indenture  made  between  the  Lady  Beatrice  Douglas^ 
Countefs  of  Errol,  and  the  Grey-Friars  of  Dundee,  and 
ordered  it  to  be  put  in  execution.* 

There  was  also  in  Lanark,  a  chapel  dedicated  to  St. 
Nicholas,  but  where  situated  I  d^o  nof  know.  Mention  is 
made  of  it  in  a  charter  granted  by  Jame^  IV.  *•  Steph- 
<'  ano  Lockhart,  de  loco  de  Clydesholme,  et  de  cymba 
•*  super  aquam  de  Clyde,  mortificat.  Capcllano  ad  al- 
**  tare  Sanctae  Katfaarinae  fundat.  in  capella  Sti.  Nicolat 
f*  de  Lanark,"  dated  7th  March  1491. 

About  half  a  mile  to  the  Eastward  of  the  town  are  the 
ruins  of  the  Hospital  of  St.  Leonard's,  probably  founded 
by  Robert  L  In  1393,  Sir  John  Dalzell,  a  predecefsor  of 
the  Earl  of  Carnwath,  obtained  from  Robert  III.  to  him- 
self  in  liferent,  and  to  Walter  Dalzell  his  son  in  fee,  the 
whole  revenue  belonging  to  St.  Leonard's  hospital  within 
the  burgh  of  Lanark,   upon  condition  that  he  and  his 

heirs 

f  The  purport  of  the  Indenture,  which  is  dated  in  1482,  is  as  follows  :  In 
the  year  preceding  the  date  of  the  indenture,  provisions  being  verj  dear,  the 
Grey^friars  of  Dundee  not  having  wherewithal!  to  maintain  themselves, 
were  obliged  to  pledge  their  books,  cups  and  utensils.  The  Countefs  com- 
miserating them,  gave  them  100 1.  Scots  or  jf .  8  : 6 ;  8  Sterling  to  support 
th^m  in  their  extremities,  and  to  enable  them  to  repair  their  monastery ; 
snd  in  return  the  Friars  obliged  themselves  and  their  succefsors  to  ce« 
lebrate  daily  at  the  great  altar  a  ma(s,  suhmifsa  voce^  vel  cum  flofa,.which 
mafs  was  called  mffsa  Domini  pro  anima  dictae  Beatricis  (Comitifsx,)  ac  pro 
animabus;Willielroi,olim  sponsi  sui,  et  Wiilielmi  com.  de  Errol,  fil.  ejus,  dec. 
and  if  the  Countefs  ftiould,  as  llie  designed,  build  an  altar  within  the  churck 
of  the  three  kings  at  CuUen,  then  the  mafs  (hould  be  said  at  that  altar,  fcc. 


ofLahtfrl.  |]j 

heirs  Ihall  provide  a  qualified  person  to  celebrate  3  mafses 
once  cverj  seven  years  for  the  salvation  of  Robert  IIL 
Anabella  his  Queen,  and  all  their  children  for  ever. 
The  ruins  of  this  hospital  have  lately  been  dug  up  and 
plowed.  Some  human  bones,  carved  stones,  and  an  urnt 
was  discovered  among  them.  The  Hospital  lands  now 
belong  to  the  Burrow,  and  are  held  by  them  of  the  fa- 
mily of  Camwath,  for  payment  of  20  merks  annually, 
which,  by  the  charter,  is  declared  to  be  for  the  use  of 
the  poor. 

Agriculture,  The  land  rises  from  the  town  in  a 
gentle  ascent  to  the  East,  and  consists  of  a  light  dry 
soil,  upon  a  gravelly  bottom,  with  a  few  acres  of  mofs  in 
the  common  which  lyes  to  the  East  of  the  town. 
There  is  a  considerable  declivity  from  the  town  upon 
the  South,  West  and  North,  to  the  rivers  of  Clyde 
and  Moufs,  and  an  acclivity  from  those  rivers.  The 
soil  here  is  partly  loam  upon  a  rocky  bottoiQ,  and  partly 
day. 

The  Barrow  lands  consist  of  above  600  acres  of  fine 
rich  loam,  exclusive  of  the  common.  These  are  in  ge« 
neral  the  property  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  burgh,  few 
of  whom  pofsefs  more  than  2  or  3  acres,  are  mostly  unin-/ 
closed,  and  when  rented,  generally  yield  from  2 1.  to  3 1, 
the  acre.  Burrow  acres  sell  at  from  50  1.  to  701.  the 
acrc#  Preceding  the  year  1750,  the  burrow  acres  were 
kept  in  constant  tillage,  under  a  rotation  of  bear,  oats  and 
pease  ;  each  burgefs  kept  one  or  two  cows,  and  some  of 
them  a  horse  or  two,  which  pastured  promiscuously  up- 
on the  common  in  summer,  and  upon  the  burrow  croft 
stubble  in  winter.  Since  that  period,  potatoes  have  been 
introduced  instead  of  the  pease   crop,    and   have  been 

planted 


15  Statistical  account 

planted  iii  great  quantities^  being  reckoned  a  more  Bene^ 
ficial^crop  than  pease.  They  are  generally  planted,  a^ 
bout  4  bolls  to  an  acre,  with  a  dibber  ;  and  are  three  or 
four  times  hand-hoed  during  the  summer.  Elach  acre  pro- 
duces from  60  to  100  bolls  Linlithgow  barley  measure^ 
tvithout  dung,  which  is  here  seldom  or  never  applied  to 
the  potatoe  crop,  as  they  are  found  to  be  much  drier,  and 
supposed  more  wholesome  without  it.  Many  people 
however  have  observed  that  the  repeated  culture  of  po- 
tatoes is  injurious  to  the  soil :  and  that  the  burrow  lands 
do  not  now  bear  such  quantities  of  good  oats  and  barley 
as  formerly. 

Some  time  ago  winter  herding  upon  the  commoti  i^as 
adopted  here,  and  since  that  happy  period,  clover  and  rye« 
grafs  have  been  introduced  in  ^  considerable  quantities, 
and  the  inhabitants  now  find  it  more  for  their  advantage  to 
leather  their  cows  upon  their  grafs  fields  th^n  to  send  them 
to  the  common.  An  acre  of  sown  leathering  grafs  has 
been  known  to  let  as  high  as  5I. 

The  tends  of  the  out  parlfh,  till  within  these  30  years, 
were  generally  let  in  small  farms  for  19  years,  the  rents 
paid  in  victual,  and  the  labour  performed  by  the  tenant 
and  his  own  family.  The  mode  of  agriculture  was  that 
of  keeping  a  few  acres  adjoining  to  their  houses  in  con- 
stant tillage,  upon  which  all  the  dung  of  the  farm  was 
laid  ^  and  the  outfields  were  kept  alternately  for  three 
years  in  oats,  and  three  years  in  pasture.  Each  farm  kept 
4  horses,  and  a  few  milk  cows,  the  produce  of  which 
was  entirely  consumed  in  the  family;  a  few  colts  and 
young  cows  were  also  reared,  the  sale  of  which  furniihed 
the  farmer  with  what  littie  money  was  needed. 

Since  that  period,  the  victual  rents  have  br^cn  abolifhed^ 
and  a  spirit  of  industry  and  improvement  has  diffused  it- 
self over  the  parifh.     About  20  years  ago,    a  few  farms 

wer« 


%f  LanarW  1 7 

l^erelet  in  tack  for  38  years,  with  some  little  encourage-' 
inent  towards  inclosing  :  Some  of  these  have  been  inclos- 
ed partly  with  stone  fences,  and  partly  with  ditch  and 
hedge,  and  kept  in  a  fencible  condition.  Dung  is  now 
applied  to  the  outfields,  and  a  regular  rotation  of  crops 
carried  on  over  all  the  farm.  The  most  approved  rota- 
tion seems  to  be  oats  from  lea;  a  green  crop  of  pease, 
turnips,  or  potatoes  ;  barley  sown  with  grafi  seeds  ;  two 
crops  of  hay,  and  three  in  pasture.  By  this  mode  the 
dung  is  equally  distributed  over  all  the  farm,  a«id  the 
land  kept  in  good  condition,  beiog  dungt^d  once  in  eight 
years. 

Some  years  ago,  a  considerable  quantity  of  oat-meal 
was  yearly  carried  from  thib  parilh  to  t!:e  Glasgow 
market ;  but  now,  since  the  intrcduction  of  cotton  ma- 
nufactures, it  is  all  consumefl  it  home  ;  and  frequently 
Irifh  meal  is  sent  up  from  Gl.^siTow  to  supply  the  demand 
at  the  cotton  mills  ;  nor  i..  this  p.irilh  any  longer  able  to 
maintain  itself.  O  <t-meal  stlls  g:-T'eraI)y  at  a  penny  a- 
peck  higher  than  either  at  EdinburirJi  or  Gi  isj^ow;  a  cir- 
cumstance that  ought  to  encourage  tlie  agriculture  of  the 
parilh,  and  stimulate  proprietors  in  this  a. id  the  neigh- 
bouring parifhes,  to  bring  their  wajte  and  moor  grounds 
under  cultivation. 

The  Scotch  plough  drawn  by  3  or  4  horses  ;  the  com- 
mon harrow  of  4  bulls  and  20  iron  teeth  ;  the  roller,  and 
single  horse  carts,  are  the  most  general  implements  of 
husbandry  here.  A  few  lig)»t  ploughs,  made  in  the  ptrifli 
upon  Small* s  model,  are  also  in  use  ;  and  two  harrows  of 
3  bulls  each,  with  long  teeth  joined  together  by  a  hinge  in 
the  middle,  and  two  chains  at  the  c.id,  are  used  with  ef-i 

fcct^ 

yoL.  XV.  c 


lo  Statistical  account 

feet,  in  reducing  rough  land.  They  likewise  use  two 
light  harrows  for  grafs  seeds.  Mr  Honjman  employs 
two  oxen  and  two  horses  in  breaking  up  his  moor 
grounds  ;  but  no  oxen  are  used  any  where  else  in  the  pa- 
rifli,  excepting  at  Bonniton,  although  "the  savidg  of  oats 
ought  fircatly  to  encourage  them  in  a  pariili  where  oat- 
meal gives  so  high  a  price. 

Lime  is  in  pretty  general  use  as  a  manure*;  where  it 
has  not  been  too  frequently  applied,  it  produces  fine 
crops;  bur  where  the  land  has  been  often  limed,  it  is 
found  to  succeed  best  when  made  up  into  compost  dung- 
hills, and  when  led  out  in  harvest  and  laid  upon  lea 
grounds,  it  is  attended  with  great  advantage.  There  is 
some  very  good  marie  »n  the  estate  ot  Boiuiiton,  but  at 
present  it  is  not  dug  our    for  sale. 

There  is  very  lit'le  wiieat  sown  in  the  parifb,  cither 
owing  to  ihe  want  of  a  flour  mill,  the  scarciiv  of  inclo- 
sures,  or  the  iii^h  situation  of  tlie  di-trici.  Some  years 
ago,  severnl  acres  were  anruaily  sown  with  flax,  uhich 
yielded  irom  24  to  4c  stones  per  acic;  bat  the  trouble  at- 
tending  the  difFtr rent  operations,  and  the  distance  from  wa- 
tering places,  prevent  it  from  hemg  sown  in  quan- 
tities ;  so  that  the  general  crops  in  use  arc  barley^ 
oats,   potatoes,  pease,  and  rye  c^afs  and  clover. 

Turnips,  tiiough  a  most  profitable  crop,  are  by  no  means 
uncommon  use.     When  tht-  old  crofts  arc  laid  out  in  pas- 
ture for  milk  cows,   great  quantines  of  butter  and  cheese 
are  made  ;   and  the    produce   of  each  cow,  under   proper 
^  management,   yicl4s  from  4  1.  to  61.  sterling  annually. 

Oais    nrd    pVasr    are    sown    from  ^tne   first  of  March 
to    the    middle    of  April,  potatoes  from  the  middle  of  A- 

pril 

*  The  price  of  a  full  1  eaped  Vi'n  of  litre    Is  36  (hillings;  and  it  gene* 
rally  yields  from  9  to  ias!pglchoisc  carts  of  flicUs. 


i 


%: 


u 


of  Lanark.  J  9 

pril  t«  the  second  week  of  May,  and  barley  from  the 
first  to  the  end  of  May.  In  common  seasons,  harvest 
begins  about  the  first  6f  September,  and  ends  about  the 
middle  of  October.  Even  in  the  year  1782,  there  was 
little  or  none  to  cut  down  after  the  first  of  November^ 
and  the  ciop  for  the  most  part  was  got  in.  Harvest  179a 
was  almost  equally  late,  and  the  crop  as  ufipro.luctive.- 
The  great  rains  prevented  the  corns  from  ripening,  oc- 
casioned their  running  to  straw  and  lodging,  by  which 
the  grain  did  not  nil  ;  and  it  wa»  no  uncommon  thing  to 
send  two  bolls  of  oats  to  the  mill,  and  get  only  one  boll 
of  meal  in  return,  alth  Ugh  in  ordinary  seasons  and  in 
ordinary  land  we  have  generally  boll  for  boll.* 

Climate  and  Diseases,  Tliis  parifli,  from  its  high,  dry, 
and  airy  situation,  is  perhaps  as  hcaltliy  a  one  as  iii  Scot- 
land. Bring  situated  m  the  cciure  of  tlje  i^L^nd,  it  is 
equally  free  fro.n  the  En^tern  fogs  and  the  violtnce  of  the 
Western  rains,  so  thit  the  air  is  always  pure  and  clear. 
The  dimate,  although  drier  tii.'n  aLout  Glasgow,  or  even 
Hamilton,  .is  certainly  somt  what  uctCcr  than  about  Edin- 
burgh, but  is  more  than  uimoensatcd  by  the  absence 
of  the  Eastern  fogs,  so  disagreeable  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  tha,t  city.  Spiiiig  droughts  trequcntlj  retard  th^  crops 
very  considerably,  and  som^tiaiCi  spring  frosts.  Hea- 
vy rains  in -Juiy  ai.d  ALii»Ui>t,  winch  are  pie.ty  comdion 
here,  have  a  siaiilar  tfiecC  in  keeping  back  the  harvest  ; 
but    in    general  the  crops  are  earlier  than  in  the  i.e  gh- 

buuriiig 

*  All  plants  2nd  ▼egetablei  common  to  Scotland  are  to  be  '"otind  here. 
The  sycamore,  ^v//ij-o  tlie  plane  tree,  scemt  hcr<r  to  b<  mdi^ciijus,  and  ;;rovr» 
atnong  the  natural  woods,  as  do  Xhjt  hollj  and  barberrj.  There  are  tew  or 
mi  sbcf p  Sept  in  ttiii  paiifl^ 


(  20  Statistical  account 

i 

Jbourmg    paiiflies,  and  even    more    so   than    those   lying 
much  lower  and  farth'^r  down  the  ClyJe. 
V        ^  ,1°  Autumn  fevers  ana  flax-ji  are  orctty  frequent,  which 

H  have   been    impute  J   to  livirjg    too  much  upon  potatoes  ; 

•\  but  there  is  no  disease  peculiar   to    rhe    parifti.      The   in- 

■j  habitants   arc    in  ;Tencral  stout  and  he  dthy,   and  it  is  do 

uncommon  thing  to  met  .vitli  pJo.)Ie  walk^ig  about,  naj 
even  working,  at  the  age  of  8d.  Two  or  three  have  died, 
within  thtse  few  yars,  aged  above  90  ;.  o'  c  of  them,  a 
,  blacksmith,  died  at  tlie  age  of  1;-  5  bat  I  do  not  at  present 
rccolle<:t  of  any  perioa  who  ever  reacned  his  hundredth 
year. 


^  Natural   Curiosities^    and  Romantic  Scenery,     This  pa- 

I  riQi  contains  as  mach  curi   Ub,   rouantic,   and  varied  see- 

.fl  nery,  as  any  in  Scrtland.      The  falls  ol  Clyde   prmcipallj 

*i  interest  the  stranger,  ai;d  wt  fhall  bt  gin  with  the  upper- 

most one,  ahht  ugh  to  come  at  it,  we  are  obliged  to  pafs 
the  second  fall,  or  Corra  Liu.  The  uppr^rmost  one  is  some- 
what above  ^h  miles  from  L;inark,  and  from  the  estat»i 
in  which  it  is  situated  is  called  the  Bonniton  Fall  or  Lin.  • 
From  Bonniton  house,  a  very  neat  and  elegant  modern 
buil.ing,  }ou  arrive  at  the  Lin,  by  a  most  romantic  walk 
r.longthe  Clyde,  leaving  the  pavilion  and  Corra  Lin  upon 
>v  ur  right  hand.  At  seme  little  clrstap.cc  from  the  fall, 
t:  -^  walk,  leading  to  a  rock  tliftt  juts  out  and  overhangs 
l!.L  river,  brings  you  all  at  once  within  sight  of  this  bcauti- 
li.l  shtet  of  water  ;  but  no  stranger  rtt>tj>  satisfied 
with  this  view  ;  he  still  prefscs  onwards  along  the  walk, 
till  Irom  the  rock  immediately  above  the  Lin,  he  sees  the 

whole 

•  n-.e  word  Lin  V.as  not  hitherto  been  explained  by  any  v/ritcr.   It  isDt> 
l^  •thcr  than  the  Cadic  \VorcJ  Xf.v.?;,  i.e.   Ice;)  C7  fall,  dal'crcntly  spelt  and 

X><)QOunceJ.^ 


1 


of  Lanark.  ?f  ^' 

^hole  body  of  the  river  precipitate  itself  into  the  chasnt 
below.  The  rock  over  which  it  falls  is  upwards  of  I2> 
feet  of  perpendicular  height,  from  which  the  Clyde 
makes  one  precipitate  tumble,  or  leap,  into  a  hollow 
den  ;  whence  some  of  it  again  recoils  in  froth,  and  smok* 
ing  mist.  Above,  the  river  exhibits  a  broad,  expanded, 
and  placid  appearance,  beautifully  environed  with  plan<* 
tations  of  forest  trees.  This  appearance  is  suddenly 
changed  at  the  fall :  and,  below  it,  the  river  is  narrow, 
contracted,  and  angrily  boils  and  thunders,  among  rocks 
and  precipices. 

The  same  beautiful  and  romantic  walk  conducts  yoa 
back  again,  along  the  precipice  that  overhangs  the  rivcr^ 
both  sides  of  vvhich  are  environed  by  mural  rocks,  equidis- 
tant and  regular,  forminj^,  as  Mr  P' nnai  t  exprefccs  it,  a 
•*  stupenduous  natural  masonry  ;*"*  from  whose  crevices 
choughs,  daws  and  other  wild  birds,  are  incefsantly  spring- 
ing. You  descend  along  the  river  for  ubout  half  a  mile, 
till  you  arrive  at  the  Corra  Lin^  so  called  from  an  old  cas- 
tle and  estate  upon  the  opposite  bank.  The  old  castle 
of  Corra,  overhanging  a  high  rock  that  overlooks  the 
fall,  with  Corra  house,  aid  the  rocky  and  woody  banks 
of  the  Clyde,  form  of  themselves  a  beautiful  and  grand 
€BUp  'd^oeil\  but  nothing  can  equal  the  striking  and  stu- 
penduous  appearance  of  the  fall  itself,  which  when  view- 
ed from  any  of  the  different  seats  placed  here  and  there 
along  the  walks,  must  fill  every  unaccustomed  beholder 
with  awe  and  astonifhment.  The  tremenduous  rocks  au 
roiind,  the  old  castle  upon  the  opposite  bank,  a  corn  mill 
in  the  rock  below,  the  furious  and  impatient  stream  foam- 
ing over  the  rock,  the  horrid  chasm  and  abyfs  underneath 
your  feet,  heightened  by  the  hollow  murmur  of  the  wa- 
ter and  the  screams  of  wild  birds,  form  at  once  a  spectacle 

both^ 


tj- 


^2 


Stathtical  account 


I 


both  trcmenduous  and  pleasing.  A  summer-house  or  pa>- 
villion  is  situated  over  a  hi^h  rocky  bank,  that  overlooks 
the  Lin,  built  by  Sir  Jan\ts  Carmichael  of  Bonniton  in 
1708.  From  its  uppermost  room  it  affords  a  very  strik- 
ing prospect  of  the  fall,  for  all  at  once,  on  throwing  your 
eyes  towards  a  mirror,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  room 
from  the  fall,  vou  !^ce  the  whole  tremendous  cataract 
pouring  as  it  were  upon  your  hv  ad.  ^  The  Corra  Lin,  by 
a  late  measuremc  t,  i^  found  to  be  84  feet  in  height.  The 
river  doe-;  not  rufh  ovtT  in  one  uniform  fhect  like  the 
BonnitonLin,  but  in  tluee  diiTerent,  though  almost  imper^ 
ceptible,  prcipi.t*  leaps.  Oil  the  s  )utliern  bank,  and 
when  the  sun  fliint  s,  a  r;a.ibovv  is  perpetually  seen  form- 
ing itself  upo  1  tl  e  mi^t  and  foi^s,  arising  from  the  violent 
dalhing  of  the  watvrs. 

The  next  curiosity,  on  descending  the  Clyde,  that  at- 
tracts the  strnnger,  is  New  Lanark,  or  the;  cotton  mills. 
The  sitiiarion  of  tMs  vill;iL»e  is  at  tie  western  extremity 
of  the  Bonr.iton  ;]^rcm!ui  in  a  Ioa-  den,  and  within  view 
of  another  o^iuiuil  ''cind  romanric  tall  calL  d  DundafFLin, 
gjffiiifying  i'»  Gclic  hi  ick  casfie  ieup  \  and  no  doubt  for- 
merly some  f  rlrt-fj  has  b  ea  sirua:ed  hereabouts,  al- 
thou'^h  no  tr.icts  now  le  iain,  exrcptin^  in  tradition; 
-which  still  P-'  ts  out  a  reck  cileci  Vailncc's  Chair,  where 
thai  patru  t  .is  ^rici  Lo  i  ..vt  c)i;cia!cd  himself  from  the 
Encliftj'  ^  ■••^  *'**^^  ^"^  a'ljiuit  ^  or  4  feet  high,  and  trouts 
Lave  been  r  ot-rvt  d  lo  piii  g  pp  and  gain  the  top  of  it 
•with  ease.  This  fill,  tho  v  1.  j.e.  (oar  lot'ty  cotton  mills, 
and  their  hi.  y  iri'n'''  r.  ir  .  t  cr^  h- r  wirh  the  wild  and 
•woody  scdicry  arou:  1,  mu  \  at  r.u  t  the  notice  of  every 
stranger.  Belcnv  the  r  .iir  lite  r;  uiantic  rocks  and  "wods 
of  BTaxficid,  t!ic  sear  oi  tlic  j-i.  u  t  Lord  Justice  Clerk, 
who  influenced  alone  by  the  good  of  his  country,  very 

fiackly 


of  Lanark*  %\ 

frankly  feued  the  8i»e  of  the  village  and  cotton  mills  to 
the  bencToleat  Mr  David  Diilc,  at  a  vcrry  moderate  feu- 
duty. 

The  next  fall  of  consequence  is  the  Sionebjrcs  Lin,  si* 
tu3ted  about  2i  miles  below  the  Corra  Lin.  It  is  so  cal- 
led from  the  n'-ighbouriKg  estate  O'  Stonebyres,  belonging 
to  Daniel  Verc  E  q  ;  but  the  grounds  adjacent  to  the 
fall,  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  have  lately  been  feued 
or  purchased  by  Mr  Dale.  This  cataract,  which  is  about 
eighty  feet  in  height,  is  the  ne  plut  ultra  of  the  salmon,  as 
none  can  pofsibly  get  above  it,  although  their  endeavours, 
in  the  spawning  season,  are  incif^ant  and  amusing.  It  is 
equally  romantic  with  the  othtrs  ;  and  like  the  Corra  Lin, 
has  three  distinct,  but  almost  precipitate  falls.  Wild  rug- 
ged rocks  are  equally  visible  here,  ?nd  they  are  equally 
fringed  with  wood  ;  the  tr^es  however  are  by  no  means 
so  tall  and  stately,  being  compoofd  of  coppice  wood.  Sal- 
mon, pars  (samlets,)  horse  muscle,  or  tlie  pearl  oyster, 
though  numerous  below,  are  never  seen  ;;bove  this  fall. 

The  next  piece  of  natural  cariositv  is  C\;llane  Craigs, 
upon  the  river  Moufs,  which  enieis  CI;  de  about  a  mile  be- 
low the  town  of  Lanark.  This  is  a  curious  and  rorr.antic 
den,  about  a  quarter  oi  a  mile  in  krgth,  bounded  on  ei- 
ther side  by  a  reef  of  lofty  precipitous  and  rugged 
rocks,  which  are  fringed  witii  coppice  wood  on  the 
north  side,  and  with  coppice,  wood  and  thriving  planta- 
tions on  the  south.  The  rocky  bank  on  the  north 
side  is  about  400  feet  in  height,  and  it  is  not  much 
lower  upon  the  fouth  side*  '  Both  banks  arc  fnely  varied 
■with  the  different  appearances  of  rock,  wood  and  preci- 
pice. At  th-e  bottom  ruj.s  the  river  Moufs,  which  scarce- 
ly leaves  room  for  the  lonely  traveller  to  traverse  the 
dcnj  however,  here  the  c;:lcb rated  botanijf-,  Mr  Lightfoot, 

clambered 


pjj,  Statistical  account 

dftmbered  in  search  of  plants,  and  discoTcred  somt  rare 
and  uncommon  ones,  as  maj  be  seen  in  his  Flora  Scotica* 
At  every  reach  of  the  Moufs,  of  which  there  are  manj, 
the  scenerj  varies,  and  wherever  jou  find  a  prominent 
rock  upon  the  one  side,  you  are  sure  to  meet  with  a  regular 
recefs  on  the  other.  Caverns  in  the  rocks  are  here  and 
there  observable^  but  none  of  them  worthy  of  any  parti- 
cular description.  One,  still  called  Wallace's  cove,  tra- 
dition tells  us,  was  the  hiding  hole  of  that  patriot.  An- 
other equally  trifling,  but  which  bears  evident  marks  of 
the  chifsel,  is  said  to  have  been  the  abode  of  a  hermit  in 
former  times,  but  must  have  been  a  miserable  habitation^ 
hardly  affording  room  to  lye  down  in.  Considerable  veins 
of  the  spatum  ponderosum  run  through  these  rocks  ;  but 
no  other  mineral  has  hitherto  been  traced  in  this  dreary  den 
of  foxes,  badgers  and  wild  birds.  It  is  somewhat  singular 
how  the  Moufs,  instead  of  following  its  direct  course,  by 
Baronald  house,  where  the  ground  is  lower  and  unob- 
structed by  rocks,  fhould  have  penetrated  the  high  hill  of 
Cartlane,  and  forrred  a  bed  through  solid  rock.  It  seems 
presumable  that  this  vast  chasm  has  originally  been 
formed  by  some  earthquake,  which,  rending  the  rocks,  al- 
.  lowed  the  water  to  pafs  that  way. 

Lakes y  orchards y  and  mineral  springs.  There  is  only 
one  lake  of  any  consequence  in  the  paridi,  which  is  on 
theBr>nniton  estate,  and  upon  which  there  is  a  bleachfield, 
particularly  famous  for  bleaching  threed.  It  is  called 
Lang  Lochy  althouoh  hardly  500  feet  in  length  ;  and  con- 
tains both  Pike  and  Perch. 

There  are  no  Orchards  of  any  consequence  excepting  a- 
bout  Holmfoot,  in  the  lower  part  of  the  parifh.  Small  one« 
liave  been  lately  planted  at  Castlebank,  and  at  Earonald  ia 


the  netghbonrhood  of  the  town,  which  thrive  tolerably 
well ;  but  in  general  the  fruit  does  not  succeed  so  well  in 
the  higher  parts  of  this  pariih,  owing  to  the  great  eleva<- 
tion.  Small  fruit,  however,  such  as  gooseberries,  yield 
considerable  returns,  and  I  have  kaown  some  cultivators 
of  them  draw  from  lo  1.  to  25  1.  for  a  crop,  independent  of 
other  vegetables  growing  among  them.  Wild  fruits  are 
here  in  great  abundance,  such  as  crab  apples,  haxel  nuts, 
geens,  bird-cherrj  called  here  hagberry,  rasp-berries,  Roe- 
buck-berries,  and  strawberries,  &c.  The  fruit  of  the 
bird-cherry,  (prunuifadus'),  or  the  bark  in  winter,  is  an 
excellent  astringent,  and  a  specific  in  Diarrhoeas  and  fiax^^s. 
The  disease  common  to  cows  in  some  pastures,  called  the 
tnoor-ill,  is  cured  by  it,  of  which  I  have  beea  afsured  by 
an  excellent  surgeon  now  deceased.  The  Rubus  Saxatiiis^ 
and  Rubus  cbamamorus^  are  to  be  found  along  the  rocks  of 
Cleghorn  wood,  and  at  Bonniton,  by  the  falls. 
'  There  are  no  mineral  waters  in  the  parifh  other  than 
the  common  chalybeate  springs,  which  are  found  almost 
every  whete  in  Scotland. 

Roads^  Bridget^  and  Improvements^  already  made  or 
proposed.  The  distance  to  Edinburgh  is  about  30  miles  $ 
and  a  most  excellent  turnpike  road  was  made  some  years 
ago  to  that  metropolis. 

The  present  road  to  Glasgow,  which  is  24  miles  from 

Lanark,  is   in  bad  repair ;  and  on  account  of  the  great 

declivity  to  the  water  of  Moufs  and  acclivity  from  it,  it 

has  been  found  expedient  lo  change  the  tract  of  the  road 

altogether  ;  and  instead  of  crof&ing  the  Moufs,  a  new  one 

is  finifhing,  that  crofses  the  Clyde  at  the  old  bridge  of 

Lanark,  and  from  thence  runs  along  the  southera  banks 

of 
Vol.  XV.  D 


26  Statistical  accomt 

of  that  riTer  by  Dalserf  and  Hamilton  to  Glasgow"  This 
road,  which  leads  through  woods  and  orchards,  and 
keeps  the  Cljde  prettj  generally  in  view,  bids  fair  tu  be 
the  most  beautiful  one  in  Scotland  ;  and  were  it  continued 
southerly  as  once  proposed,  by  the  Howgate  mouth  to 
Carlisle,  (thereby  fborteniog  the  present  road  frooci  Glas- 
gow to  that  place,)  it  wouliJ  be  of  considerable  adrantage 
to  Lanark,  as  at  present  there  is  no  thorough^fare  through 
Lanark  to  any  town  in  Britain,  it  will  however  be  mat- 
ter of  regret,  if  some  attention  is  not  also  paid  to  the  old 
load  by  Carluke,  as  it  is  the  ordinary  one  to  coal  and 
lime. 

There  are  two  bridges  over  the  Clyde  in  the  parifli. 
The  old  bridge  of  Lanark,  consisting  of  3  arches,  was  built 
in  the  end  of  last  century,  and  is  at  present  strong  and  suffi- 
cient ;  but  from  the  late  great  weight  of  earth  laid  upon  the 
abuttment  next  the  town,  it  is  somewhat  doubtful  whether 
it  may  tiot  be  hurt  by  it.  The  other  bridge  is  the  Hynd- 
ford  bridge  on  the  high  road  from  Lanark,  and  from  Edin- 
burgh to  Ayr.  This  bridge,  consisting  of  5  arches,  was 
built  a  few  years  ago,  under  the  direction  of  Mr  Steven, 
and  for  elegance  and  simplicity  may  challenge  any  bridge 
of  its  size  in  Scotland.  There  are  three  bridges  over  the 
Moufs,  Cleghorn  bridge,  Lockhart-ford  bridge,  on  the 
Carluke  road  ;  and  Moufs-mill  bridge. 

If  ever  the  proposed  canal  fhould  take  place  between 
Edinburgh  and  Glasgow,  and  fliould  the  people  of  Ayr- 
ihirc  think  of  a  canal  to  join  it,  the  southerly  tract  of 
the  Glasgow  and  Edinburgh  panal,  pointed  out  by  Luci^ 
us  in  the  Edinburgh  Herald,  would  be  the  most  accom- 
anodating  one  towards  such  junction.  The  Qlaigow  canal 
would  enter  the  pariih  fro.ii  Carluke  ;  and  palsing  close 
on  by  Cleghorn,  might  there  be  joined  by  the  branch 

from 


^Lanark  ^7 

from  Ayr,  which  could  be  carried  acrofc  the  Clyde  a 
litde  above  Hyndford  bridge,  and  frpm  thence  by  Doug- 
las to  Ayr.  This  would  not  only  accommodate  the 
thriving  manufactures  of  Lanark,  and  the  Cleogh  iron 
works,  but,  as  it  would  pafs  over  grounds  contammg 
coal,  lime-stone  and  .  iron-stone,  would  greatly  promote 
agriculture  and  manufactures  of  every  kind;  besides  the 
more  general  advantage  arising  from  the  expansion  of 
trade  from  sea  to  sea. 

Rental  and  heritors.  The  valued  rent  of  the  parifh 
is  L.  4417  :  19  :  lo  Scots,  and  the  real  rent  upwards  of 
L.  jooe  Sterling.  The  principal  heritors  are  Charles. 
WiOiart  Lockhart,  of  Lee  Esq;  Allan  Lockhart  of  Cleg- 
horn,  esq.  Lady  Rof»  Batllie,  and  the  honourable  George 
BaiUieof  Jervis-wood.  Besides  those  named,  there  are 
six  or  seven  lefser  heritors,  55  smaU  ones  in  the  out  pa- 
rifli,  and  98  proprietors  of  burrow  lands.  There  are 
only  about  3  or  4  heritors  that  are  non  residents. 

Population.  The  population  of  the  parifli,  as  returned 
to  Dr  Webster  in  1755,  amounted  to  ««94  "uls.  On 
May  15th  1794.  the  number  of  examinable  persons,  1.  e. 
all  above  seven  years  of  age,  by  the  late  incumbent's  ex- 
amination roll,  amounted.to  2693,  exclusive  of  New  La- 
nark, or  the  cotton  mills,  to  which  when  we  add  one  fifth 
more  for  the  children  under  7  years  of  age,  we  (hall  have 
the  sum  total  of  313 1  ;  so  that  the  populaUon  of  the  pa- 
rifli including  New  Lanark  wUl  stand  asunder. 

la 


28 


Statistical  account 


In  the  town  of  L'nar!;,  and  burgh  lands, 
III  the  villa^re  of  New  Lanark, 
In  the  country. 


4260 
1519 

972 


Total  Nj.  of  somIs,  4751 

Increase  Since  the  year  17;  5,  or  rather  since  1785, 
the  acra  of  the  Cotton  \votk-»,  2456 

The  medium  of  births  in  the  parilh  for  zo  years  prece^d- 
ing  th<?  year  1786,  i»nou".ts  to  68,  and  the  medium  for  10 
year^  back  from  1786,  to  73.  MarrUgcs  sif»ce  the  erec- 
tion of  rl.e  Cotton  mills  nave  greatlj  encreased,  so  that 
fiom  being  fornrjcrlj  dX  a  medium  about  19  annually; 
ihej  are  now  doubled  Of  the  deaths  in  the  piri(h,  there 
seems  to  he  no  regular  regord  k^'pt :  besides  the  kirk  sef- 
$ioi,  who  ought  alone  to  have  the  care  of  the  mort- 
c'oths,  there  is  one  kept  for  the  country  heritors  of  tho 
Western  parts  of  the  parifh,  another  kept  for  the  Barro-i 
ny  of  Lee,  another  by  the  deacons  of  crafts,  and  of  late 
the  Guildry  has  deemed  it  necefsary  to  keep  one. 

Burgh, — Lanark  is  an  ancient  royal  burgh  erected 
by  Alexander  I.  whose  charter,  together  with  the  after 
ones  of  Robert  I.  and  James  V.  are  confirmed  by  Charles 
1.  20th  February  163a.  Lanark  is  clafsed  with  Linlithgow 
Selkirk  and  Pebles,  in  lending  a  representative  |o  Parlia- 
ment. The  electors  consist  of  the  Common^council  and 
l>eacons  of  Crafts.  The  number  of  counsellors  are  fj^ 
including  the  Piovost,  two  Bailien  «nd  I)ean  of  Guild, 
and  there  are  7  Deacons  of  Crafts,  The  Crafts-men  are 
the  Smiths,  Shoemakers,  Wrights,  Taylors,  Weavers, 
Dyers,  and  Skinners.  The  Deacons  form  a  separate  hom 
dy>  called  the  Deacon'^  seat  j  and  have  no  yoic^  in  council, 

c^^cept 


of  Lanark.  2g 

except  in  the  election  of  Provost,  Bailies,  Dean  of  GoOd« 
and  delegate  for  electing  a  member  of  Parliament* 

The  nqmber  of  inhsbitants  amount  to  2260;  among 
vhom  are  the  following  handicraftsmen,  exclusive  of 
journeymen  and  apprentices  : 

Smiths,  n  StockingmakerSy  60 

Shoemakers,  80  Watchmakers,  a 

Masons  and  Wrights,  30  Bakers,  5 

Taylors,  ix  Butchers,  4 

Weavers,  60  Gardiners,  5 

Dyers,  a  Tanners,  z 

Skinners,  1 

T  do  not  know  the  exact  nnmber  of  Merchants  of  Shop- 
keepers, but  there  are  fonr  Surgeons,  seven  Attomies, 
or  writers,  and  50  Innkeepers  or  publicans  ! 

The  town  is  delightfully  sitil^ted  upon  the  slope  of  a 
rising  ground,  29a  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Clyde,  and 
656  feet  j  inches,  above  the  quay  at  the  New  bridge  of 
Glasgow.  There  are  in  it,  five  principal  streets,  besides 
lanes  and  closes.  The  houses  formerly  were  almost  all 
of  them  covered  with  turf  and  straw,  and  the  rooms  with« 
out  ceilings.  Since  the  erection  of  the  Cotton  workst 
many  houses  have  been  covered  with  slate,  and  ceilinga- 
are  now  pretty  generally  in  use.  In  (hort  the  town  has» 
within  these  two  or  three  years,  put  on  a  decent  ap- 
pearance. A  nent  additional  Inn  has  lately  been  bttilr» 
which  was  much  needed,  as  the  resort  of  strangers  to 
see  the  falls  of  Clyde,  the  Cotton  works,  &c.  is  verj^ 
considerable. 

There   is  here  a  very  good  meal-market ;  and  withia 
these  two  years,  a  neat  market  for  butcher  meat  has  beea 
erected,  together  with  a  slaughter  h^use   at  some  const* 
derable  distance  from  it*    The  only  other  market  requi- 
site 


I 

I 


30  Statistical  aceount 

site  for  the  inhabitants,  would  be  one  for  garden  stufTs, 
ivhich  might  also  answer  for  potatoes,  fifh  and  salt.  At 
present  garden  stuffs  are  only  to  be  bought  at  the  gar- 
dens. As  to  filfaf  were  a  particular  market  once  esta* 
bliihed,  such  as  are  peculiar  to  the  place,  as  salmon, 
trouts,  pikes,  perches,  and  pars,  would  more  readilj 
be  exposed  to  sale  i  besides  it  would  encourage  the  sale 
of  herrings  and  other  fifli  from  Glasgow,  &c. 

Cburcbi  The  church  stands  in  the  middle  of  the  town; 
is  a  tolerable  neat  modern  building  ;  but  no  great  compli- 
mentcan  be  paid  to  its  steeple.  The  steeple  contains!  bells, 
the  largest  has  3  different  dates  put  upon  it  at  the  diffe- 
rent refoundings;  the  oldest  date  is  liio.  The  church,  tho' 
large,  is  rather  inadequate  to  the  encreasing  number  of  the 
inhabitants,  which  circumstance  in  part  gave  risf  to  the 
building  of  a  seceding  meeting-house  within  these  two 
or  three  years.  This  meeting-house  has  from  90  to  loe 
communicants,  and  the  examinable  persons  will  amount 
to  one  fifth  more.  The  seceders  here  aie  a  verj  orderly 
set  of  men  ;  and  thej  and  their  pastor  pof^ef^  more  solid 
religioi^  and  good  sense,  than  to  listen  to  the  wild  schemes 
of  anarchy  and  disorder,  said  to  be  inculcated  by  some 
of  their  sect,  in  imitation  of  the  atheists  of  ^  neighbouring 
kingdom: 

School.  The  grammar  school  here  has  always  been  in 
great  repute;  and  many  gentlemen  at  the  head  of  the  lear« 
ned  profefsions  have  had  their  education  at  it.  The 
school  has  two  establiihed  teachers  :  wnd  Engliih,  Latin  and 
Greek  are  taught  in  the  same  rooUi.  The  Rector's  salary 
is  L  16:  13  :  4:  and  the  second  master's  isLS.  The 
scholars  are  from  7^  to  80.  The  fees  for  Engliih  are, 
IS.  6 d.  per  quarter,  and  for  Latin  is.  6d.  The  pre- 
sent school-house,  consisting  of  two  stories,  and  slated, 

was 


of  Lanark:  ^t 

was  built  from  the  munificcDce  of  thfc  late  William 
SmcUie,  M,  D.  well  known  from  his  publications  on 
the  obstetric  art,  who  bequeathed  L,  zoo  towards  re- 
building the  school-house,  and  also  left  to  it  his  library 
of  books,  which  are  kept  in  the  room  impediatelj  above 
the  school-room.  •,} 

Mauuf actum.  There  is  a  considerable  manufactory  of 
stockings  here,  between  75  and  80  stocking  frames,  being 
constantly  employed.  The  workmen's  wages  in  all  are  a- 
bout  L.  ^5  weekly.  This  businefs  has  increased  considera* 
bly  within  these  7  or  8  years*  Abouc  20  jears  ago,  there 
were'  no  more  than  5  or  6  frames  in  the  town. 

Previous  to  the  American  War,  a  very  great  quantity 
of  Iboes  was'  manufactured  here  for  exportation,  and  sent 
to  Glasgow  weekly,  but  since  that  period  the  demand  ijS 
considerably  decreased. 

Tahrs.  '  There  are  at  Lanark  7  fairs  in  the  year,  all  of 
them  well  frequented.  Lammas  fair  is  an  excellent  market 
for  lambs  and  young  colts.  This  fair  ^fome  time  ago  sup- 
plied  the  Highlands  with  lambs  and  (beep  ;  but  of  late  the 
demand  from  that  countrj  is  considerably  lefsened.  Mar« 
tinmas  fair  is  a  good  market  for  black  cattle,  lint,  yartt»  and 
coarse  linneo* 

History.  About  anno  978,  Buchanan  inforou  us  that 
Kenneth  ii.  Jield  an  afsembly,  or  parliament,  being  the 
first  mentioned  in  history,  at  Lanark ;  a  circuflnstaoce  about 
which  Forduo,  our  oldest  author  now  extant,  is  silent. 

Anno  1144$  Fordun  tells  us  that  Lanark  among  some 
other  towns  was  burnt  to  the  ground,  but  docs  Aot  mea- 
tion  the  circumstances. 

Anno 


3  2  Statistical  liccount 

Anno  1297,  \ht  same  author  adds,  that  Sir  Williann 
WaUace  began  here  his  first  great  military  exploit  hj 
defeating  the  English  sherriff  of  Lanarkshire,  William  di 
Hesliope^  and  putting  him  to  death  in  this  town.  Blind 
Harry  relates  this  event  at  greater  lencrth,  affixing  the 
•ame  date  to  it«  He  tells  us  Wallace  having  maftted  a 
ladj  of  the  name  of  Braidfoot,  the  heiref^ofLanimington, 
lived  with  her  privately  at  Lanark  ^  that  while  there, 
«  scuffle  ensued  in  the  street  betweea  Wallace  and  a  few 
friends,  and  a  body  of  £:iglishmen.  Wallace  being  over* 
powered,  fled  first  to  his  own  house  and  from  thence  made 
his  escape  to  Gartlane  Craigs.  The  sherriff  Hesilrig^  or 
as  Fordun  calls  him  Hesliope,  seized  upon  his  wife  and 
put  her  to  death.  To  revenge  which,  WaUace  gathers 
«  few  friends  together,  attacks  Hesilrig  in  the  night,  and 
kills  him  and  240  Englishmen.  Tradition  tells  us,  that 
the  house  where  Wallace  resided  was  at  the  head  of  the 
Castlegate  opposite  the  church,  where  a  new  house  has 
lately  been  erected.  It  also  acquaints  us  that  a  private 
vaulted  archway  fed  from  this  house  to  Cirtlane  Craigs, 
but  seemingly  without  the  smallest  probability. 

Anno  13 10  Bruce,  finally  recovered  Lanark  from  the 
Engliih. 

By  act  of  parliament  ao  June  1617,  anent  weights  and 
measures,  the  care  of  the  weights  was  committed  to  the 
burgh  of  Lanark ;  *'  In  respect  that  the  keeping  and  oat- 
giving  of  the  weights  of  old  to  the  burrows  and  others^ 
&c.  was  committed  to  the  burgh  of  Lanark.''  Standard 
weights  Were  transmitted  to  Lanark  from  London  at  the 
union,  but  whether  they  exist  at  present  or  not  is  un« 
known*. 

Ancient 

•  The  price  of  proviBom  is  as  folbws.  Oat  meal  and  gram  in  general 
a^i  tumewhat  higher  here  thaa  io  the  J^diuburgh  or  Glasgow  market. 

Oat» 


^Lanark.  ^'^ 

Antienifamilus  and  great  mtn.  The  families  of  Lee 
and  Cie^horn  are  the  most  ancient '  in  the  pariih.  Sir* 
William  Lockhart  of  Lee«  the  great  statesman  and  gene* 
rai  under  the  protector,  and  Charles  21,  and  who  was  aU 
•Q  Loro  Justice  Clerk,  was  born  in  this  parifiii  and  had 
his  first  rudimAiti  «of  education  in  Lanark  scbooL  Dr 
William  Smellie  author  of  the  treatise  on  mtdwiferjr, 
thoug  1  bora  in  the  neighbouring  pari(h  of  Lesmahago 
^as  educated  here.  The  present  Lord  Justice  clerk, 
('Robert  McQueen  of  Braxfield,)  so  justly  esteemed  for 
his  abilities  as  a  lawer  and  a  judge»  was  bom  in  the  pa- 
riihf  and  had  his  education  at  Lanark  school.  The  late 
learned  and  ingenious  general  R07,  received  also  part 
of  his  education  here,  and  was  born  in  the  neigh* 
bouring  prai(b  of  Carluke*  William  Lithgow  the 
ncted  traveller  was  bom  in  the  parifli,  died  in  it,  and 
is  buried  in  the  church  yard  of  Lanark,  though  no 
vestige  of  his  tomb  can  now  be  traced. 

£  Conom 


Oat  meal  is  for  the  most  part  td.  a  peck  higher  titan  at  fidiabnrgH^  £eef 
and  mutten  sells  from  3d.  i  to  4d.  §  the  pound  Englifli ;  veal  from  4d.  to 
6d.  lamb  fd.  heosfrom  Zf.  3d.  to  is.  6d.  butt.r  from  8d.  §  to  iOc«.  and  czga 
l^om  4d.  to  7d  the  dosen.  There  %re  few  swine  kept  io  the  pari  (h,  although 
very  profitable  i  and  are  seldom  seen  in  the  markets,  bwect  milk  is  ad 
a  Scotch  pint»  and  churned  milk  has  been  late'y  raised  to  }per  pint.  No  sal- 
mon can  get  above  the  Stonebyres  fall,  and  arc  seldom  brought  to  market* 
Trottts  ard  to  be  had  almost  every  day,  and  are  pretty  reasonable.  And  ve* 
getablesare  to  be  bad  at  thegardenv  very  reasonable.  The  flour  baked 
here  into  bread  comes  all  from  Edinburgh  or  Glasgow,  which  greatly  en* 
hanres  'he  price  of  bread;  About  30  years  ago«  potatoes  were  ad  a  peck 
eggs  1}  the  doitrn,  and  bntter  3^  the  pound. 

The  rate  of  layout  is  asfoliovfj.  Masons  wages  are  t'rom  2od.  to  is. 
carpenters  is.  6d.day  labourers  from  is.  to  is.  ftd«  •  ayloii  Si.  ••r  1  their 
diet,  when  in  the  employers  nouse,  a  custom  now  a.most  <l:»coaiinued:  plow* 
aaen  get  from  81.  to  lol.  annualU  with  maintainancc,  or  L14.  10^  and  a  froa 
houm  9jd  garden  without  it.    Maid  senmpts  from  %i.  to  41.  a  year* 


34 


StatisHcai  occMnt] 


Cottan  MiUi^  and  Village  o/'A#tv  Lanari.  New  Laa- 
arkt  where  the  couon  mili&  ace  situated,  u  about  a  Ibort 
mile  from  Lanark ;  and  is  the  onlj  Tillage  in  the  pariih. 
It  ib  entirelj  the  creation  of  the  enterprising  and  well: 
known  Mr  David  Dale  ;  and  as  it  originated  with  the 
erection  of  the  first  cotton  mill,  we  ihall  begin  our  ac^ 
count  with  the  mills. 

[:  MUls.  In  1784,  Mr  Dale  feued  the  she  of  the  Mills 
and  village  of  New  Lanark,  from  the  present  Lord  Jus- 
tice Clerk,  with  some  few  acres  of  ground  adjoining* 
Thi&  spot  of  ground  was  at  that  period  almost  a  mere 
morals,  situated  in  a  hollow  den,  and  of  diflBcult  acceCi* 
Its  only  recommendation  was  the  Ttrj  powerful  command 
of  water,  that  the  Cijde  could  be  made  to  afford  it  ;  in  o- 
thet  respects,  the  distance  from  Glasgow  and  badnefs  of 
the  roads  were  rather  unfavourable. 

The  first  mili  was  begun  in  April  1785,  and  a  subtera* 
fieous  pa&age  of  near  100  yards  in  length,  was  also  iormed 
through  a  rocky  hill  for  the  purpose  of  an  aqueduct  to  it*. 
In  Su&mer  1788,  a  second  one  was  builr,  and  was  nearly 
rooted  m,  wheu  on  the  9th  of  October,  that  year,  the 
first  one  was  totally  cousumed  by  aocidencai  fire,  but  was 
agam  rebuilt  and  finifiied  ia^  17891     The  proprietor  hta 

since 


•  In  September  1785,  while  digging  the  open  pirt  of  this  aqueduct, 
there  was  found  tSc  skeleton  of  the  Bison  Scoticut  or  Urus,  described  by" 
Cs.  Jii  Lib  ▼!.  which  has  been  extinct  in  ^cotland  for  above  300  years  The 
cotv  ,  orflin<  Oi  tliC  horns  are  still  preserved,  one  in  the  college  of  Glasgow  : 
txwi  a  uT.'iei  i.i  pol  u.  y.\  the  lastjcnough  njt  entire  is  a  feet  in  lengthy 
ind  next  tne  bead  measures  above  15  inches  in  clrcuznierence.^ 


n 


^f  Lanark.  35 

saaee  erected  other  two,  all  of  which  arc  meant  to  be  drU 
ven  bj  one  and  the  same  aqueduct. 

In  march  1786,  the  spinning  commenced,  and  notwith- 
standing of  the  severe  check  by  tlie  total  destruction  of 
the  first  mill,  the  manufactory  has  been  in  a  constant 
prcgrefsive  state  of  advancement.  In  March  i79'» 
from  an  accurate  account  then  taken,  it  appears  there 
were  981  persons  employed  at  the  mills  whereas  there 
arc  now  (November   1793^  ^334« 

As  already  said,  there  are  four  houses  built  for  the 
purposes  of  spinning,  the  dimensions  of  which  are  as  un^ 
der. 

f.  long, 
The  first  built  one  is         154 
The  second,  154 

The  third,  13© 

The -fourth,  156 

The  second  is  the  only  one  as  yet  completely  filled,  and  con* 
tains  about  6,000  spindles.  The  first  one  which  was  burned, 
and  now  rebuilt  has  only  at  present  4500  spindles.  In  the 
third  mill,  a  considerable  number  of  patent  jennies  are 
«ow.  going  by  water,  bein^  the  first  of  the  kind  in  Great  Bri- 
tain :  This  invention,  and  for  which,  a  patent,  has  lately 
beeii  obtained,  we  owe  to  the  gcnifis  and  spirited  indus- 
'  trj  ef^  Mr  William  Kelly  of  New  Lanark  *.     There  are 

about 

♦  Tkis  gmtlemati  has  also  lately  discoyered  a  new  method  of  erecting  tht 
great  fcwr  or  large  maohinery  of  x:otton  mil's,  so  as  to  reqaire  one  iwsxxA  of 
^  water  tlian  coQuaoolj  oeoded:  aad  whicb  is  also  applicid3le  to  com 
m  ills.  This  mode  is  imx,  only  le{s  expensive  but  requiret  le(s  trpwble  than  the 
old  one.  It  also  has  the  heoevolent  tendency  of  preserving  the  lives  of 
chi'dreniind  dfhers  that  may  be  entangled  by  the  drum  or  fliait.  He  has 
betn  honoured  with  the  thanks  of  the  Board  of  Trustec\  with  whom  he  has 
4ep«8ited  a  model  of  hii  impiovemeotft. 


:.  wide, 

f.higb, 

»7 

60 

«7       , 

60 

3» 

60 

33 

70 

^6  Statiititai  accoufU 

about  55  common  jennies  also  at  work  In  this  mill.  Th* 
4th  JVIill  is  about  to  be  filled  in  the  same  waj  ;  at  present 
it  is  occupied  as  store  rooms  for  cotton  wool,  as  work 
shops  for  the  different  tradesmen  employed ;  and  as  a 
boarding  bouse  for  175  children,  who  have  no  parents 
here,  and  who  get  their  maintenance,  education  and 
doathing  for  the{r  work. 

Below  is  a  state  of  the  numbers  at  present  employed, 
distinguifl^ing  their  diff  rent  employments,  &c. 

Masons,  Carpenters,  and  labourers,  employed  in  erect- 
ing buildings,  for  7  years  past.  ^o 

Mechanics  employed  in  making,  and  repairing 
Machiaary  vis. 

Smiths,  20  Turners,  10 

Glockmakers,  12  Founders,  z 

Mill-wrightSy  9  Hammermen  and  Hag- 

Joiners,  19         men,  &c*  15 

Ferssns  employed  in  carrying  on  the  manufaciory 
Tiz.    in  cleaning  cotton,  carding,  drawing,  roving, 
winding,  spinning,  and  reeling  viz. 
Men,  145    Boys,  376 

B  Women,  217   Girls,         •  4*9 

I  "57 

I  Total  number  employed,  1334 

I  Of  these  last,  32  men,  71   women,  52  boys,   an4  51 

girls,  reside  in  the  burgh  of  Lanark,  all  the  rest  live  at 

ju  New  Lanark.     109    of    the    women  work    at  picking 

|||  cotton   in   ther  own  houses^  and  for  the  most  part  have 

I  fto^UcSy  some  of  whom  are  employed  at  the  mills* 

The 


of  Lanark.  37 

Tt.e  ages  of  the  ycung  people  employed  are  as  fellow. 
Of  6  years  of  age,  5  Of  ii  years  of  age,  99 

Of  7  33  Of  13  9» 

Oi  8  7i  Of  14  7« 

Of  9  95  Of  15  68 

Of  10  <)3  Of  16  69 

Of  II  64  Of  17  35 

The  proprietor  likewise  employs  in  the  parilh  and 
r.ei^hbourhood  324  persons  in  weaving  winding  &c« 

The  quantity  of  Cotton  wool  manufactured  weekly  a- 
mounts  at  an  average  to  69OOO  libs.  The  yarn  is  part- 
ly  manufactured  into  cloth  here  by  the  weavers  above 
mentioned,  and  others  in  the  proprietors  employ  ^  and 
partly  sold  to  the  manufacturers  in  Glasgow. 

Wich  regard  to  the  health  of  the  work  people,  it  is 
sufficient  to  say  that  of  all  the  children  provided  with 
Ttkc-Ki  aid  clothing  by  the  proprietoi  amounting  this  and 
last  year,  lO  275 ;  and  for  7  years  back,  never  fewer  than 
80,  only  3  have  died  during  the  period  of  seven  years  : 
in  mentioning  so  extraordinary  a  fact,  it  may  pet  haps  be 
expected  th^t  something  ihonld  be  said  of  their  diet 
*  and  treatment. 

The  former  consists  of  oatmeal  porridge,  with  milk 
|a  summer  or  sowens,  i,  e.  oat-meal  flummery,  with  milk 
an  winter  twice  a  day,  as  much  as  they  can  take,  barley* 
broth  for  dinner  made  with  good  frefli  beef  every  day  ; 
and  as  much  beef  is  boiled  as  will  allow  7  ounces  £a« 
glifh  a  piece  each  day  to  one  half  of  the  children,  the  other 
half  get  cheese  and  bread  after  their  broth,  so  that 
they  dine  alternately  upon  cheese  and  butchermeat^ 
with  barley  bread  or  potatses ;  and  now  and  then  in  the 
pjroper  season  they  have  a  dinner  of  herrings  and  potatoes. 
Tbey  as  well  as  the  othen,  begin  work  at^  six  in  the 

Aorningi 


^  Siatiftical  aeeouM 

monuBg^  are  allowed  half  an  hour  to  breakfast*  an  hour 
to  dinner,  and  quit  work  at  7  at  night ;  after  which 
they  attend  the  school  at  the  expence  of  the  proprietor 
till  9.  The  J  sleep  in  well  ^ired  rooms,  three  in  a  bed  i 
•nd  proper  care  is  taken  to  remove  tho^e  under  anj  di- 
sease to  seperate  appartments; 

The  great  improvement  arising  from  Mr  Kelly's  inven- 
tion of  Jennies  going  by  water,  reduces  very  considera- 
bly the  number  of  men  that  foriaerly  were  necefsary  in 
working  the  common  Jennies.  Such  being  the  case, 
widows  with  large  families  are  much  wanted  here,  as  chil- 
dren can  manage  the  patent  Jennies  with  great  ease, 
while  their  mothers  are  employed  in  other  branches. 

Great  attention  is  paid  to  the  morals  of  children  and 
others  at  these  mills,  of  which  the  late  incumbent  was 
perfectly  sensible.  Large  manufactories  have  sometimes 
been  considered  in  another  light,  but  Mr  Pale  and  all 
concerned,  must  here  have  the  voice  of  the  pubhc  to  the 
contrary*  Marriages  have  greatly  increased  in  the  pa- 
rifh  since  their  erection^  as  the  benefits  arising  from  a  fa- 
mily are  obvious.  Indeed  the  anxiety  of  the  proprietor 
to  have  proper  teachers  and  instructers  for  children  wilL 
ever  redound  to  his  honour. 

New  Lanark.  VHas  been  entirely  built  by  the  propria 
tor  of  the  mills  for  the  accomodation  of  his  work  people 
and  the  following  is  a  state  of  its  population  at  pre- 
sent: 


Married  persons. 
AVidpws  and  widowers. 


Male$ 

TtmaUt 

181 

,84 

4 

34 

Unmarned 

pf  Lanark.  >  ^ 

Unmarried  persons  above  %x  year  of  age      15  %% 


Between         ai  and  %% 

I 

3 

20  and  21 

a 

3 

19  and  10 

14 

21 

f 8  and  i9 

/       xo 

t-\ 

17  and  18 

>5 

18 

16  and  1.7 

«7 

ai 

ij  and  x6 

30 

29 

14.  and  15 

3a 

36 

13  and  14 

*7 

3« 

12  and  13 

29 

3» 

II  and  i» 

5« 

47 

10  and  i< 

3« 

3' 

9  and  lo 

4a 

54 

8  and    9 

34 

4» 

7  and    8 

40 

37 

6  and.   7 

39 

3» 

5  and    6 

ao 

x6 

4  and    5 

xa 

x8 

3  «"d    4 

»7 

I* 

a  and    3 

9 

sa 

J  and    a 

12 

.  «4 

Between  jjear  old  and  i. 

It 

la 

under  jjrearold. 

«9 

x8 

total.     •  714  805 

total  No.  of  souls  1519 

Amoag  thes  are  54  Jenny    7  Clockmatcrs, 

spinners,  5  Wearers, 

45  Labourers^  3  Schoolmasters, 


I  40  SuaaticaJ  adtomt 


i 


I 


1 1  fimithst  3  Shoemakers^ 

10  Wrights,  3  Turners,  & 

8  Tmjlor8»  2  Merchants, 

9  masons, 

A  great  proportion  of  the  inhabitants  are  Highlanders 
asostly  from  Caithnefs  Inverncfs  and  Argylefhires.  Few 
of  those  from  the  west  understand  £ng  i(h.  In  1791  a  Yef- 
tel  carrjing  emigrants  from  ^he  isle  of  Skj  to  North  A- 
SDcfrxta,  was  driven  by  strefs  of  weather  into  Greenock  ^ 
about  200  were  put  aihore  in  a  very  destitute  situation. 
Mr  Dale  whose  humanity  is  ever  awske  offered  them  im« 
mediate  employment,  which  the  greater  bulk  of  them  ac* 
ccpted  :  And  eoon  after  with  a  view  to  prevent  far- 
ther emigration  to  America  he  notified,  to  the  people  of 
Argyleibire  and  the  isles,  the  encouragement  given  to  fa* 
milies  at  iht  cottonmills  ;  and  undertook  to  provide  hou* 
aes  for  aco  families  in  the  course  of  the  1792*  these  were 
all  finiflied  last  summer,  (1793)  and  a  considerable  num^ 
ber  of  Highlanders  have  cf  late  conx  to  reside  at  New 
Lanark. 

Families  from  any  quarter  pofsefsed  of  a  good  moral 
characlcri  and. having  three  children  fit  for  work,  above 
nine  years  of  age,  are  received, — supplied  with  a  house 
at  a  moderate  rent,  and  the  women  and  children  provided 
;with  work*  The  children,  both  those  fit  for  work 
and  those  who  are  too  young  for  it,  have  the  privilege 
of  attending  the  school  gratis,  the  iornoer  in  the  evenings 
the  latter  through  the  day.  Three  profefsed  teachers  are 
paid  by  Mr  Bale  for  this  purpose,  aad  also  seven  aisi- 
tanta  who  attend  in  the  evenings,  one  of  whom  teaches 
imriting.  There  is  ako  a  Sunday  school  at  which  all  the 
jmaster*8  and  abistants  attend. 


q/*  Lanarkk  41 

In  New  Lanark  there  is  a  fmall  congregational  meeting* 
houfe  for  thofe  of  the  kOt  commonly  called  Independents. 
The  Highlanders  have  fomctimcs,  though  rarely,  been  favour- 
ed with  a  fetmon  in  Gaelic,  by  preachers  of  the  church  of 
Scotland  :  and  it  has  been  for  fome  time  ill  contemplation,  to 
ere£t  a  church  for  conftant  worfliip  in  that  language,  at  lead 
for  one  half  of  the  day.  The  Society  for  Propagating  Chriftian 
Knowledge  has  been  applied  to  for  fome  affiftance,  which 
probably  will  be  granted,  feeing  the  want  of  public  worfliip 
and  in(lru£lion,  among  fo  great  a  body  of  people,  muft  have 
a  tendency  to  hurt  the  morals  of  the  prefent,  as  well  as  to 
difcourage  future  fettlers  from  the* Highlands,  and  of  confe* 
quence  muft  promote  emigration. 

Before  leaving  this  article  of  cotton  mills,  I  cannot  help 
noticing  a  circumftance  peculiar  to  fuch  manufactures^ 
which  may  afford  a  ufeful  hint  to  poor  widows  with  families. 
In  moft  other  manufafbures,  a  woman  who  has  a  family, 
and  becomes  a  widow,  is  generally  in  a  moft  helplefs  fitua* 
tion.  Here  the  cafe  is  very  different,  for  the  greater  num* 
bcr  of  children  the  woman  has,  flie  lives  fo  much  the 
more  comfortably ;  and  upon  fuch  account  alone,  (he  is  of- 
ten a  tempting  objeft  for  a  fecond  hufljand.  Indeed,  at  cot- 
ton mills,  it  often  happens,  that  young  children  fupport  their 
aged  parents  by  their  induftry. 

Mr  Dale  has  fct  apart,  and  inclofcd  apiece  of  ground  clofc 
by  the  village,  for  a  burying  place. 

Character  of  the  People^  i^c.  The  people  are.  In  genera!, 
induftrious,  though  not  remarkably  fo.  They  are  naturally 
generous,  hofpitable,  and  fond  of  ftrangers,  which  induces 
them  fometimeg  to  make  free  with  the  bottle  ;  but  drunken- 
nefs,  among  the  better  clafs  of  inhabitants,  is  of  late  rather 
unufual.  It  is  lefs  fo  among  the  other  inhabitants ;  but, 
upon  the  whole,  they  arc  a  decent  and  orderly  people  ;  and 

Vol.  XV.  F  cpmes 


4  i  Statijlical  Account 

crimes  are  feldomcr  committed  here,  than  in  any  other  pari(h 
of  equal  population.  The  author  knows  of  no  native  who  has 
ever  been  tried  for  a  capital  crime.  In  fliort,  they  arc  gene- 
rally honeft,  decent,  religious,  and  drift  in  their  attendance 
on  divine  worfhip.   Perhaps,  there  may  be  one  or  two  indivi- 

>  duals,  who,  cither  from   ignorance,  or,  from    violence   of 

temper,  will  not  liften  to  the  cool  voice  of  reafon,  who  chime 
in  with  the  ravings  of  the  Friends  cf  the  People^  as  they  call 
thcmfelves ;  but  the  reft,  although  fomc  may  wifh  for  a  mo- 
derate reform,  have  too  much  religion  and  found  fenfe  not 
to  fee,  that  thofe  people  have  neither  experience  nor  know- 
•  ledge  in  matters  of  that  nature,  and  only  grafp  at  feating 

thcmfelves  in  power  upon  the  ruins  of  their  country ;  nor  arc 
they  fo  weak,  as  not  to  profit  from  the  example  of  a  neigh- 
bouring kingdom,  where  Anarchy  fits  triumphant  upon  the 
guillotine^  with  Murder  at  her  back,  trampling  upon  law, 
liberty,  and  religion,  and  treading  the  rights  of  mankind 
under  her  feet 

Eccleftajlical  State.     The  King  is  patron  of  the   parifli. 
Lord  Douglas  is    titular    of   the    tcinds  of    the  borough 
f  lands,   and  Mr  Lockhart  of  Lee  and  Carnwath  of  the  reft 

J  •f  the  pariflb.     The  church,  being  built  in  1777,  is  in  very 

good  repair.  The  manfc  and  office  houfcs,  being  ereftcd  at 
the  late  incumbent's  entry  in  1757,  are  not  in  fuch  good  or- 
der. The  manfe,  olBces,  and  garden,  cover  about  a  rood  of 
ground.  The  glebe  is  fcrimply  4  acres  ;  but  the  incumbent 
'  .  is  entitled  to  the  grafs  of  the  church-yard,  and  to  common 
!ij|*.  pafturagcin  the  moor. 

j;ij    .  The  ftipend  payable  at  prefent  is  as  under, 

B.     F.     P.     L. 


Scotch, 

U'hich, 


•    4 

1.1 


lilts 


In  meal. 

87      I        2      2| 

In  bear. 

9     3       I     2| 

In  money. 

L.  493     3S,     lod 

of  Lanark.  ,43 

which,  with  L.  35  69.  8d.  Sterling  of  augmentation,  obtained 
during  the  winter  feflion  1792,  will,  at  the  common  con- 
verfion,  amount  in  whole  to  about  L.  90  Sterling. 

Mr  James  Gray,  the  late  incumbent,  fucceeded  Mr  John 
Orr  and  was  tranflated  from  Rothes  to  this  parilh  in  1756. 
No  minider  ever  condu<a:ed  himfclf  with  greater  propriety. 
He  never  meddled  with  borough  policies,  but  attended  only 
to  the  duties  of  religion;  and  his  pious  and  exemplary  con- 
dudl  will  long  be  remembcrd  by  his  parifhioners.  Mr  Wil- 
liam Menzies  has  of  late  obtained  the  prefrntation,  is 
agreeable  to  all  thf  parifli,  and  has  been  favoured  with  an 
unanimous  call. 

A  very  accurate  and  diftirifl:  record  of  births  and  marri- 
ages is  kept  by  the  feflion  cltrk,  commencing  in  1648. 

Po^.  The  poor's  funds  have  been  carefully  and  attentively 
kept,  perhaps  more  fo  than  was  abfolutely  neceflary.  When 
the  funds  for  the  poor  are  very  confiderable,  they  become  in 
fome  degree  an  encouragement  to  idlenefs  and  diflipation  \ 
befides,  people  do  not  give  alms  for  the  ufe  of  after  genera- 
tions, but  to  fupply  the  neceflities  of  the  prefent.  It  is  true^ 
the  Seflion  may  err  in  giving  too  much  to  the  poor,  yet  fure- 
ly  objects  will  always  occur,  among  induftrious  manufadlur- 
ers  and  tradefmen  burdened  with  great  families,  where  the 
bellowing  of  a  very  fmall  pittance  will  not  only  benefit  the 
receivers,  but  the  whole  parilh,  and  even  the  nation  at  large 

The  number  of  town  poor  upon  the  feflion  roll  amounts  to 
45,  including  3  orphan  children  and  a  lunatic.  The  inter- 
eft  of  400I.  the  fum  amafled  by  the  feflion  *,  the  collections 
at  the  church  doors  \  the  rent  of  1  \  acre  of  land,  with  the 
fines  from  delinquents,  and  a  confiderable  proportion  of  the 
ikes  for  proclamation  of  banns,  i  t.  marriages,  have  hitherto 
farmed  the  fund  for  their,  fupply. 

F  %  The 


44  StatiJlicaJ  Account 

The  heritors  of  the  landward  part  of  the  parifli  meet  half 
yearly,  and  aflefs  themfclves  for  the  maintainance  of  their 
poor.  The  number  of  their  poor  at  prefent  amounts  to  1 1 ; 
and  the  afleflment,  including  clerk's  falary,  for  laft  year,  to 
about  27I.  This  mode  of  providing  for  the  poor,  in  the  land- 
ward parifh,  has  been  adopted  fince  the  year  1750.  Dr 
Anderfon,  the  editor  of  the  Bee,  inveighs  warmly  againft  this 
mode  of  providing  for  the  poor,  alledging  that  it  is  contrary 
to  law,  and  invariably  followed  by  a  gradual  increafe  of  the 
number  of  poor-  Whatever  it  may  be  in  other  places,  from 
the  record  of  this  charity,  it  does  not -appear  that  it  has 
been  the  cafe  in  this  pariQi.  The  lands  belonging  to  St  Leo- 
nard's hofpital,  formerly  noticed,  are  under  the  adminiftraf 
tion  of  the  ma  gift  rates,  and  yield,  cemmunihus  annis^  about 
35I.  yearly,  divided  among  40  poor  perfons  monthly.  The 
different  incorporations  likewife  divide  fome  money  quarter- 
ly among  the  families  of  their  deccafcd  brethren :  30I.  Scotch 

;  are  divided  by  the  minifter  and  magiftrates,  on  the  morning 

of  the  firft  day  of  the  year,  among  the  poor  b\irgeires.  This 
is  a  mortification  by  James  Lord  Carmichael  in  the  year 
1662.  His  lordfhip,  in  thofe  days,  had  his  town  refidence 
in  this  burgh,  and  obferving  the  better  fort  of  tiradesmen 
and  inhabitants,  celebrating  the  new  year's  day  with  feafting 
and  merry  making,  he,  from  the  benevolence  of  his  difpofi- 
tion,  as  tradition  fays,  mortified  (funk)  a  fum  of  money,  the 
intereft  of  which  is  to  be  given  to  the  poor,  that  they  may 
like  ways  have  it  in  their  power  to  buy  a  hot  pinty  and  partake 
|;||  in  the  general  feftivity. 

Mifcellaneous  ohfervations*.     The  inhabitants  of  the  pariQi 

!l  are  fomewhat  above  the  middle  fize,  ftrong  built,   and  of  a 

hale 


I 


•in 


JL  *  A  native  of  Lanark,  one  Robert  Alexander,  a  wigmaker,  and  formerly 

P,  i  councillor  and  town  treaforer,  hat  kept  a  reg[ular  regiiler  of  the  weather, 

public  occorrences  vitbtn  t^e  burgh,  from  1755  downwards. 


«/■  Lanark.  45 

hale  complexion.  Their  drefd  is  confiderably  altered  within 
thefe  20  years.  A  blue  or  black  bonnet  is  now  a  fingular- 
ity  \  hats  are  in  general  ufe ;  and  both  fexes  appear  at 
church,  or  at  a  ball>  with  almoft  as  much  elegance  as  the  in« 
habitants  of  the  capital.  The  dialed  of  the  upper  ward  ot 
Clydefdalci  as  to  pronounciation,  is  the  fame  with  that  fpoken 
in  Edinburgh,  differing  materially  from  that  of  the  middle 
and  lower  wards. 

Two  cuftoms,  almoft  peculiar  to  the  burgh  bf  Lanark, 
perhaps  may  here  be  noticed.  The  firft  is  a  gala  kept  by  the 
boys  of  the  grammar  fchool,  beyond  all  memory,  in  regard 
to  date,  on  the  Saturday  before  Palm  Sunday.  They  thea 
parade  the  ftreets  with  a  palm,  or  its  fubftitute,  a  large  tree 
of  the  willow  VxnAy  faUx  capr$a^  in  bloflbm,  ornamented  with 
daffodils,  mezereon  and  box-tree.  This  day  is  called  Palm 
Saturday ;  and  the  cuftom  is  certainly  a  Popifh  relic  of  very 
ancient  ftanding.  The  other  is  the  riding  of  the  marches^ 
which  is  done  annually,  upon  the  day  after  Whitfurtday  fair, 
\>w  the  maglftrates  ai^d  burgeffes^  called  here  the  landfmark 

or 

He  is  now  about  98  years  of  age,  and,  noewithftanding  all  kit  paft  fervice\ 
the  only  office  he  now  can  reach  is  that  of  parifli  beadle.  His  annals  con- 
fid  of  5  or  6  M.  S,  odavo  volumes ;  and  although  fome  of  them  are  trifling, 
yet  in  general  they  are  a  curious  and  ufeful  repofitory. 

An  improvement,  which  may  be  followed  with  advantage  in  j»ther  placet, 
took  effed  here  about  30  years  ago.  A  country  fidler,but  a  man  of  penetra* 
tion,  having  made  fome  money,  purchafed  about  3  or  4  acres  of  ground,  of  a 
dry  gravelly  foil,  confiding  modly  of  doping  banks,  which  did  not  yield  above 
3I.  los.  altogether  of  yearly  rent.  Thefe  grounds  were  fituated  at  the  bot- 
tom of  the  town,  within  30  or  40  feet  of  a  rivulet,  which,  pafling  throogk 
the  town  and  butcher  market,  conveyed  away  a  deal  of  manure,  garbage^  &c 
The  new  proprietor,  confcioui  of  the  advantages  derivable  from  this  fource, 
was  at  a  confiderable  expence  in  driving  a  mine  through  thofe  30  or  40  feet 
of  ground,  (a  high  bank,}  by  which,  in  two  or  three  years  time  he  To  enrich- 
ed his  grounds,  as  to  draw  14I  annually  of  rent ;  and  now  40L  Sterling  « 
year  has  been  refufcd  for  Uicfe  very  lands. 


46  Stati/lical  Account 

er  langemork  day,  from  the  Saxon  langemark.  It  is  evident- 
ly of  Saxon  origin,  and  probably  eilablilhed  here  in  the  reign 
ofy  or  foqietime  pofterior  to  Milcom  I. 

The  manners  of  the  inhabitants,  as  tfi  diet  aild  drink,  are 
conGderaUy  changed  within  thcCc  20  years,  whicli  may  be 
exemplified  fron\  the  public  entertainments  of  the  magif- 
trates.     Formerly  their  debauch  was  a  moderate  meal,  wiih 
^  a  few  bottles  of  ale  or  porier,  and  a  dram  or  two ;  and,  in 

gala  days,  a  little  punch.  Now,  they  have  fuperb  enter- 
tainments, with  punch,  port,  and  even  claret.  The  com- 
mon fuel  of  the  paridi  is  coal.  The  (latute  labour  is  com- 
muted. All  animals,  common  to  the  fouth  of  Scotland,  are  to 
be  found  here.  Rabbets,  however,  arc  now  entirely  rooted 
out^:  pheafants,  fiippofed  from  Hamilton  houfe,  have  fome- 
dmes  been  (hot  in  the  parifh. 

There  are  few  pigeon  houfes  in  the  parifli.  Crows  are  nume- 
rous, and  do  a  great  deal  of  mifchief ;  as  do  alfo  hares,  par- 
ticularly to  the  fruit  trees.  The  laws,  made  for  the  prefervation 
cf  game,  were  certainly  never  meant  to  preyent  proprietors  or 
tenants  from  defending  their  property  againft  fuch  depreda- 
tors ;  and  little  fcruple  need  be  made  of  dcftroying  any  -one 
of  thofe  animals,  when  hurting  the  property  of  individuals, 
though  it  certainly  would  be  a  violation  of  the  law,  to  do  it 
for  the  fake  of  game  alone. 

jidvafitages  and  D'ifad'oantages.  Perhaps  no  fingle  pari(h 
in  Scotland  affords  more  eligible  (ituations  for  mills  of  all 
kinds  thai\  this  parilh.  Sir  Richard  Arkwright,  when  here 
in  1824,  was  ailoniihed  at  the  advantages  derivable  from 
the  falls  of  Clyde,  and  exultingly  faid,  that  Lanark  would 
probably  in  time  become  the  Manchefter  of  Scotland;  aspo 
place  he  had  ever  fcen  afforded  better  fituations,  or  more 
ample  ftreams  of  water  for  cotton  machinary. 

Lanark, 


tf  Lanark.  47 

Lmark,  however,  has  two  obftacles  to  manufafittres* 
The  fir  ft,  the  poverty  and  uncultivated  ftate  of  the  countrj 
around,  and  indeed  of  die  whole  upper  ward  of  Lanarkfture^ 
from  which  circumftance  meaU  and  almoft  every  other  arti- 
cle, is  dearer  than  at  Edinburgh  or  Glafgow,  coals  and  po- 
tatoes excepted.  But  were  the  country  in  an  improved  ftate, 
arfd  did  proprietors  and  huft)andmen  do  their  utmoft  to  im- 
prove the  foil,  this  drawback,  in  the  courfe  of  a  few  years, 
might  be  got  the  better  of.  The  next  obftacle  is  the  great 
diftance,  that  raw  materials  are  to  be  carried ;  and  the  badnefs 
of  the  roads.  Lanark  is  24  miles  from  Glafgow,  and  30 
from  Edinburgh  :  the  road  to  Edinburgh  is  an  exceeding  good 
one,  but  that  to  Glafgow,  which  is  the  principal  market,  is 
exceedingly  bad ;  befides,  it  encounters  with  a  very  deep 
ravine,  formed  by  the  Moufs  within  a  mile  of  Lanark.  This 
difadvantage  is  in  fome  meafure  doing  away,  by  a  new  road 
now  forming  by  Lanark  bridge  \  over  which  it  crofles  to  Lcf- 
mahago  parifh,  and  from  thence  runs  along  the  immediate 
banks  of  the  Clyde  by  Hamilton  to  Glafgow.  The  pulls 
here  are  confiderably  lefs  than  in  the  former  road,  and,  when 
finiflied,  which  will  berin  fpring  1794,  it  will  form  one  of 
the  moft  beautiful  and  romantic  roads  in  Scotland.  This, 
however,  is  a  partial  remedy,  nor  can  any  thing  efieAual 
be  done  to  overcome  the  difadvantage,  unlefs  the  fouthern 
traft  of  the  canal  between  Edinburgh  and  Glafgow  were  to 
be  adopted. 

The  want  of  a  flour  mill  not  only  obftrufts  improvements 
in  agriculture,  but  puts  the  inhabitants  under  the  neceffity 
of  ufmg  oat  and  barley  bread,  or  of  buying  wheaten  bread 
at  a  great  price  -,  all  which  could  be  cafily  remedied.  The 
community  of  Lanark  has  a  com  mill  upon  jMoufs  water, 
which,  at  a  very  little  cxpence,  might  be  enabled  to  grind 
both  wheat  and  oats.    Encouragement  would  there  be  given 

to 


4? 


Statijlical  Account 


to  the  introdudion  of  wheat  crops ;  and  the  inhabitants 
would  be  enabled  to  live  more  comfortably,  wheaten  bread 
hcing  of  all  others  the  mod  wholcfome. 

It  is  of  great  difadvantagc  to  manufaftures,  that  Lanark 
moor,  fo  improvable  and  fo  near  the  town,  (hould  remain 
in  a  ftatc  of  nature  t  we  already  owe  a  great  deal  to  Mi* 
lioneyman ;  and  if  the  magiftrates  cannot  difpofe  of  ariy 
i^Tore  of  it,  on  account  of  the  fervitude  of  the  burgefics,  they 
may  follow  the  example  of  the  town  of  Ayr,  and  inclofc 
that  portion  of  it  which  is  nigheft  the  towii,  to  anfwer  for 
this  fervitude  ;  and  were  it  divided  into  two  inclofures,  the 
cattle  could  pafture  alternately  in  both;  the  fouth  moor 
would  be  fully  adequate  for  this  purpofe,*  and  after  fetting 
afide  part  of  the  north  moor  for  fuel  and  divot,  the  reft  of 
It  may  be  either  difpofed  of  to  one  proprietor,  or,  which  would 
be  of  greater  confequencc  to  the  burgh,  the  magiftrates 
may  feu  fmall  lots  to  the  weavers  and  others,  efpecially  a- 
long  the  high-way  leading  from  Lanark  to  Edinburgh,  very 
fivourable  to  the  ere£lion  of  a  village  or  villages.  Thofc 
parts  neareft  the  town  would  certainly  yield  equal  feu  duty 
with  thofe  at  Kirkfield  bank,  viz.  61.  or  81.  tlic  acre;  be- 
fides,  if  a  village  was  once  erefted,  a  demand  for  ground  in 
the  neighbourhood  would  naturally  follow ;  fo  that  the  ma- 
giftrates would  be  enabled  to  let  pieces  of  their  moor  at  leaft 
as  high  as  5s.  the  acre,  and  the  whole  remainder  of  the  moor 
would  in  time  be  brought  under  culture. 

•  This  plan  would  favc  the  ncceflity  and  ctpcnce  of  two  common  herds  i 
the  fees,  however,  ought  ilill  to  be  paid  to  the  magiftrates,  and  th^  money 
srifmg  therefrom  flioald  be  laid  out  on  lime,  to  be  fprcad  upon  the  heathy 
parts  to  iweeten  the  paflure.  Nor  would  it  be  deemed  an  improper  exac- 
tion, were  the  magiftrates  to  ordain,  that  every  burgcfs,  on  getting  a  cart  of 
divots  or  turf  from  the  moor,  flioulJ,  in  return,  lay  a  cart  of  dung  upon  the 
ir.clofe4  CQXBmoD. 

No. 


ofSbotis.  49^ 


NUMBER  11. 


PARISH  OF   SHOTTS, 


(County  of  Lanark,  Presbytery  of  Hamilton, 
Synod  of  Glasgow  and  Ayr.) 

By  the  Rev.  Mr  Archibald  Bruce,  Minijicr. 


hamcy  Situation,  and  Extents 

X  ^1$  pariQi,  in  the  public  records,  is  called  BertraU 
Shotts.  The  name  feexns  explanatory  of  nothing  pecu- 
liar ^o  the  place,  and  the  accounts  of  tradition  are  fo  ap^ 
parently  fabulous,  as  far  to  exceed  the.  belief  of  even  th^ 
mod  credulous  antiquarian.  Shott3  is  fituated  in  the  north- 
eaft  pqint  of  Lanarkftire.  It  is  one  of  the  largefl  lowland 
pariihes  in  Scotland,  forming  nearly  an  oblpng  fquarc,  lo 
miles  in  length,  and  7  in  breadth. 

$«//  and  Valine. — ^The  lands  which  lie  towards  the  corner 
of  the  parilh  are  a  mixture  of  clay  and  fand  ^  will  yield  ^ 
bolls  an  acre,  and  ;nay  be  rented  at  9  s.  Thofe  tQMrards  the 
S.  £.  are  of  a  black  foil,  and  will  yield  4  bolls  an  acre  ; 
rent  7  s.  Along  the  |preater  part  of  the  S.  and  the  whole 
Vol.  XV.  Q  W-  fid^ 


5^  Statijlkal  Account 

W.  fide  of  the  parifli,  the  foil  is  chiefly  clay,  and  will  yield 
i|  j-  bolls  an  acre,  rent  8  s.  By  travellers  palling  along  the 
great  road,  Shotts  is  reckoned  but  a  barren  and  bleak  part 
of  the  kingdom.  There  is,  however,  on  the  S.  W.  boundary 
of  this  parifh,  a  trad  of  ground,  ^  miles  fquare,  that  is  lit- 
tle inferior  to  great  part  of  the  land  upon  the  Clyde.  It 
yields  at  an  average  6  bolls  an  acre  ;  rent^  133.  The  lands 
in  the  centre,  and  along  the  north  fide  of  Shocts,  are  of  a  black 
foil,  and  chiefly  fitted  for  pafture ;  when  plowed  they  may 
yield  from  3  to  4  bolls  each  acre  ;  the  grain  is  but  of  an  in* 
ferior  quality  5  the  rent  5  s.  an  acre.  That  part  of  the 
country  lying  on  each  fide  of  the  great  road,  at  the  entry  in- 
to this  parifli  from  the  Eaft,  was  not  many  years  ago  nearly 
in  its  original  ftate.  This  the  traveller  now  fees  is  fubdividcd, 
and  by  ftoncs  raifed  from  the  furfacc  of  the  land  cnclofed, 
in  a  way  which  promifes  to  laft  for  ages  to  come.  The  pro- 
#«4krictQr,  *  by  continuing  his  operations,  with  the  true  fpirit 
of  an  improver,  has  at  once  beautified  the  country,  and 
nearly  tripled  the  value  of  his  etlate.  A  little  weft  from 
the  kirk  of  Shotts,  and  upon  the  great  road,  the  traveller  fees 
a  fmall  tra<ft  of  country  neatly  inclofed.  Its  produce,  with- 
in thefe  few  years,  was  little  more  than  the  Thrafh  ;  but  by 

^.1  the  well  dire£led  induftry  of  its  proprietor^,  it  has  for  fome 

feafons  paft  yielded  crops  which  vye  with  thofe  of  a  much  bet- 
ter foil.  Round  the  manfion-houfe,  which  ftands  in  the  mid- 
p  die  of  this  lately  improved  fields  there  are  feveral  beltsof  plant- 

[  ing,  which  continue  to  thrive  beyond  expectation.  Were  the 

liil  like  fpirit  transfufed  into  neighbouring  proprietors,  a  coun- 

i  try,  hitherto  but  bleak,  might  be  made  more  comfortable  to 

'/j  its  inhabiunts,  and  have  a  better  name  abroad. 

!*t'l  Manure. — The  manure,  which  fuits  all  the  foils  of  this 

cxtenfivc  parifli,  is  lime  and  compoft.  The  full  half  of  this 
compoft  (hould  confift  of  dried  turf^  the  remaining  part  of 

dungw 
^  Sir  JosN  Inolis  of  Cramond.    \  WLr  Datio  Youno  of  little  H«irih&w. 


\. 


'I 


i 


ofSbotts.  SI 

dung.    Tliis  mixture  the  experienced  farmer  prefers  to  pure 
dung,  as  it  is  a  much  better  fecuiity  againft  worms,  con- 
tinues longer  in  the  field,  and  encreafes  the  foil,  where  the 
till  or  gravel  comes  near  the  furface.    The  induftrious  far-, 
mer  here  cafts^  each  feafon  a  quantity  of  curfj  the  more  ben* 
ty  the  better ;  this,  wH^n  properly  dryed,  he  (lacks  up,  and 
after  it  has  been  ufed  a  competent  time  in  byre  and  ftable,  be* 
low  and  around  the  cattle,  it  is  carried  to  the  4unghill.  When 
from  this  it  goes  to  the  field,  it  is  fo  completely  rotten,  that 
it  yields  a  manure  much  fuperior  to  the  compoft   mixed  in 
the  field.     By  alternate  ftrata  of  this  turf  and  (beep's  dung, 
much  excellent  manure  is  carried  from  the  fold  to  the  field. 
Crops — Upon  the  fummer  fallow,  or  field  to  be  broken  up, 
the  fpirited  farmer  lays  on  nearly  four  chalders  of  flacked 
lime,  with  a  hundred  (ingle  carts  of  the  compoft  above  de« 
fcribed.  *  The  2d,  or  perhaps  the  3d  c;rop  of  corn,  he  l^ys 
down  with  rye-grafs.    This  for  the  firft  year  docs  very  well  i 
but  (houM  the  field  be  cut  a  fecond  time,  through  the  luxu- 
nancy  of  the  natural  grafs  the  fown  fc^rc^  appears.    In  the 
lower  parts  of  the  parifh,  a  crop  of  peafe  comes  in  between 
the  two  crops  of  com.    With  the  rye-grafs  alfo  a  proper 
quantity  of  clover  is  here  (own.    The  produ^  the  firft  year 
(and  there  ought  to  be  no  more,)  may  be  200  ftones*    The 
ground,  after  this  fucce(&on  of  crops,  being  pafiurpd  3  years, 
the  fame  rotation  again  cqmmeo^ces.    Lint  is  often  a  profi»> 
table  crop  in  this  pariih,  eijfher  after  the  Mt  crop  of  com, 
after  peafe,  or  upqp  potatoe  hind.     A  peclf:  of  feed  will  yield 
4  ftones  of  flieaf  lint.    The  be^r  crop  through  Shotts  has  of 
late  been  mujcfa  diicontinued :  for  (his  the  (^fihefs  of  the  foil 
in  part  accounts }  but  there  is  another  reafon  ^hich  weighs 
more  with  the  farmer.    Bear  requires  that  quantity  of  un- 
mixed dung,  which  prevents  him  from  making  compoft  for 
his  outfields,  a  circumftance  of  late  much  attended  to  in  this 
cftuntry^ 

p  a  Rivirs, 


Ml 

ii  StatiJHcal  Account 

Xwr/J--TKcrfeiai'cttroCtfAfcrx,both<tfwhichh 
ices  in  this  diftrift.    The  one  of  thefc  rifes  In 'the  N,  E.  cornet 
bf'th'e  pari(h,and  in*its'progfefst(rrib«rai^,dividirtgShotufrom ' 
Torphichen  and  KcwmonkUnd,  ftll«  itito  the  Ctydc  5  -miles 
above  Glafgow.    The  other  Ciilder  rifes  in  the  S.  E.  conM?r  of 
this  pariQi,  and  moving  towards  the  Clyde  iiearly  in  the  &m^ 
direcSlion  with  the  former,  in  its  coutfe  dhrides  Shotts  from 
Cambufnethan.     The  waters  affo  of  Avbn  and  Crsfmond 
"have  their  firft  rife  in  this  pirifli.     The  Avon,  foon  after 
leaving  bliotts,  bends  its  courfe  n  tthward,  and  empties  itfelf 
into  the  Firth  of  Forth  near  ^rrowftownhefs.  The  Cramofid, 
tetween  its  fourcc  and  Wid  Caldcr,  croflcs  the  great  Edinburgh 
5R.oad  three  timds,  and  empties  itfelf  into  the  fame  Firth  at^ 
the  village  and  kirk,  'to  "which,  in  all  probability,  it  gave  the 

'  liamcs. 

A  '    Hills  and  Yro/p/^s.-^Tht  Hirjihyi  lies  a  mite  E.  from  the 

^  i  !pirk  of  Shbtts.     t)ver  thisliill  the  TOad  leading  from  GlaG 

gow  to  Edinburgh  has,  for  time  immemorial,  continued  to 
pafs.  Here  it  is  fuppofed  are  tne  Mgheft  cultivated  l:inds  ii^ 
Scotland  ;  this  however  is  thought  to  be  only  a  popular  mif- 
take ;  according  to  General  Roy's  m^rtfuration,  the  Hirft  b 
upon  a  level  with  the  Clyde  5  miles  above  Lanark.  There 
are  two  caufes  which  feem  to  have  led  into  this  miftake ; 

'  'i  the  waters  hereiffuing  from  their  fourccs,  at  a  fmall  diilance 

from  cacli  other,  filn  in  quite  oppofitc  direftioiis ;  it  fol- 
lows not,  howeter,  from  this,  that  the  Hirft  rifes  to  the  height 
fuppofed  •,  but  only  that  in  this  prccife  pt>l«t,  the  Hirft  is  the 
liigheft  land'bet^eefn  the  Friths  of  Forth  and  Clyde,  the  two 
Teas  into  which  all  thefe  waters  empty  f h^mfelves.  In  every 
'dircftion  alfo  from"  this  hill,  flie' country  not  only  begins  to 
fall,  but  wherever  oiie  turns  his  eye,  for  upwards  of  ab  miles, 
no  objefl:  comes  in  to  mar  the  View,  All  the  fpacc'there- 
'fore  between  the  Hirft,  upon  which  the  fpeftator  ftands,  and 

the 


, 


•I 


^  yShotts.  53 

the  f90gt  of  mouDtaiiis  \pliioli,  in  oppoGce  direflions,  bound 
Iris  profpe^)  ieecixs  funk  beneath  him ;  though  in  fa£l^  at  a 
certain  point  fouthward  the  country  begins  to  ri(e>  and  the 
Cly4c>  5  miles  S.  £.  of  Lanark,  is  upon  a  level  with  the  (pot 
On  "which  he  ft^nds.  The  Tilling  and  Cant  hills,  the  one  a 
little  norths  and  tlie  otbsr  ^  little  fouth  of  the  kirk  of  Shotts;, 
ihould  here  alfo  be  mentioned,  not  lb  much  on  account  of 
their  apparent  magnitude,  as  for  the  wondcxfolly  extended 
Iprpfpefi;,  which  In^ommon  with  the  Hirft  thoy  afford.  From 
the  Cant  hill8»  6  complete  fhires,  with  41  .part  of  8  more,  are 
feen.  Here  the  'Whole  couifl^y,  from  Arthur!s  Seat  to  the 
'hills  in  Arran,  and'the  weftern  termination  of  the  Grampian 
-JlaDge,  fills  the  eye.  While  theobfetver  turns  round,  car- 
drying  his  eye  from  S.. to  N.  the  whole  fpace  from  the  Pent- 
land,  Tinto  and  Loudon  hills^  on  the  one  hand,  to  the  Lo^ 
mMd,  the'Ochil,  and  Campfie  heights,  on  die  other,  fuccef* 
fiTely  comes  under  his  view.  Into  this  dCtenfive^profpeAi 
with  the  hills  already  mentioned,  enter  the  towns  of  Glaf- 
gbw,  Paifley, 'and  Hamilton,  with  Tillages  and  gentlemens 
feats  not  to  be  numbered.  This  great  ftretch  of  country,  a 
few  miles  S.  E.  of  Shotts  excepted,  lias  the  appearance  of 
much  richnefs  and  cultivation. 

Pfffpriettnrs*  nnd  i?/«/.— Byrarious  £iles  on  the  part  of  the 
feuers,  the  number  of  heritors  now  in  theparifli-of  Shotts 
havearifcn  to.  45.  The  chief  of  thefe  are  the  Duke  of  Ha- 
milton, Gavin  Inglis  of 'MurdiAon,  Sir  J(An  Inglis'of  Cra- 
rhond,  and  Col.  WilKam  Dalrymplc  of  Ckland.  Of  thefe 
.  45 

*  The  whole  of  thw  eitenfive  parUb,  die  lands  of  Blairmaclu  excepted, 
uhich' formerly  were  the  property  of  the  X.aird  of  Dandafs,  but  now  of  Sir 
John  Inglis  of  Cramond,  from  the  year  1378, down  to  the  year  1630, belong* 
ed  to  the  family  of  Hamilton.  The  Mirqois  of  Hamiltonj  aj  tho  lafi  of  thefe 
'p£riod«|lbld  otft  the  greater  part  of  this  czteoiive  Barony. 


54  Statijiical  Account. 

45  there  may  be  about  ii,  all  of  whofe  property  dott  not 
annaaljy  yield  looo  merks  Scotch.  The  valaed  rent  of 
Shotts  is  6566L  Scotch.  The  real  rent  exceeds  4500I.  Ster- 
long. 

Roads. — ^The  great  road,  which  at  prefent  leads  from  Glaf- 
gow  to  Edinburgh)  pafles  through  this  pariih,  and  divides  it 
nearly  into  two  equal  parts.  In  this»  as  in  the  other  rosKis 
formed  at  that  period,  a  ftrcight  rather  than  a  level  line  was 
fought.  To  this  abfard  and  inconGderate  idea,  are  many  of 
the  pulls  in  it  to  be  afcribed.  A  (nil  has  been  lately  obtain- 
ed, to  carry  a  road  from  Glafgow  to  Edinbuigh,  by  tlie  vil- 
lages of  Ardrie  and  Bathgate.  In  this  bill  there  is  alfo  a 
chufe,  hnpowering  Colonel  Dalrympie  of  Cleland  to  make  a 
line,  which  leaves  the  Shotts  road  at  Bells-hill,  and  returns  to 
it  at  the  confines  of  Whitburn  parifh.  Each  of  thefe  pafs 
though  this  parifli,  the  fifft,  two  miles  N.  of  the  Church,  tlie 
iecondy  two  miles  S.  of  it.  In  felf  defence,  the  truftees  upon 
the  Shotts  roads  have  now  in  many  places  eafed  the  pulls  in 
it  greatly ;  and  to  avoid  the  Hirft  altogether,  the  road  is  now 
carried  nearly  in  a  dead  level,  rpund  the  north  end  of  that 
hilL  The  advantages  derived  by  the  public,  from  the  late 
wonderful  improvement  upon  roads,  are  indeed  aftoni(hing. 
The  journey  which,  40  years  agO|  the  traveller  could  only 
aecompliih  in  t^'O  days,  he  now  executes  in  five  or  iix  hours* 
The  expedition,  and  encreafed  burden  of  draught  horfes  are 
equally  ftriking>  and  ftiU  more  beneficial.  The  (latute  wor|c 
of  this  parUh,  though  it  be  commuted,  and  very  regularly  le- 
vied, is  far  from  being  fuflkient  to  keep  the  many  ro«^ds,  in 
fo  wide  a  di(lri£l  of  country,  in  any  tolerable  repair. 

Ecdeftajlical  State. — ^The  prefent  kirk  of  Shotts  is  a  long 
narrow  buildings  fituated  due  £.  and  W.  What  changes 
it  has  undergone^  fince  its  creation  in  145O1  do  not  ap- 

pcjir 


ofSbotts.  55 

pear  *  •  It  got  a  few  repairs  feme  years  ago ;  much  remams 
Aill  to  be  doire  in  this  way.  The  manfe  was  built  in  the 
year  1700*  Before  Mr  Brace's  admiffion,  it  had  undergone 
repeated  repairs.  At  that  period  100  guineas  were  laid  out  up- 
on it,  which  have  rendered  it,  though  hi  a  very  expofed  fitua- 
tion,  abundantly  fnug  and  convenient.,  The'glebe  confifts  of 
44  acres.  It  might  rent  as  a  fmall  farm  at  13K  or  14I.  Ster- 
ling. In  it  there  is  a  feam  of  coal,  of  the  fplint  or  parrot  kiad, 
fully  3  feet  thick;  There  are  here  two  ftrata  of  iron,  ftone, 
the  one  refling  immediately  upon  the  coal,  the  other  a.  foot 
nearer  the  furface,  each  from  4  to  6  inches  thick  :  there  is,  at 
a  fmall  diftance  from  tliis,  another  feam  of  coal  upon  the 
glebe,  of  the  fmiddy  or  drofs  kind ;  this  being  only  two  feet 
thick,  would,  in  a  country  like  Shotts,  (though  it  be  of  an  ex- 
cellent quality)  nearly  exhauft  its  value  in  working.  The 
living  of  Shotts,  manfe,  glebe,  and  fire  included,  is  worth 
140L  Sterling.  The  Seceders  ;^e  much  more  numerous  than 
the  members  of  the  Eftabliflied  Church :(. 

School.  The  fchool-mailer  of  Shotts,  as  in  many  other  places 
of  Scotland,  adis  as  feifion-clerk.  Th^  emoluments,  annex- 
ed to  hb  office,  may  be  about  31.  los.  The  quarterly  allow- 
ance for  each  fcholar  taught  EngUfli  is  2od.  writing  as.  Latin 

,    and 

•  Anciently  the  pariih  of  Bo t swell  extended  from  the  Clyde,  (wa(hin|p 
along  its  S.  W.  borders)  all  the  way  to  the  confines  of  Weft  Lothian.  To 
accommodate  the  inhabitants  in  the  Eaftem  parts  of  this  great  parifh^thefirft 
Lord  Hamilton,  in  the  year  1450,  built  a  chapel  where  the  kirk  of  Shoctt 
DOW  ftands,  called  Si  Catharime^j  Cbrnpel,  being  dedicated  to  Sr  Catuaeiks 
of  Sib  UNA.  Tt  was  not,  however,  till  after  the  Refocmation,  that  the  coun- 
try  round  this  chapel  was  totally  detached  from  Bothwell,  and  er^dted  into  a 
feparate  pariih. 

I  After  a  ftniggle  which  lafted  tipwards  of  fix  years,  the  fettlement  of  Mr 
JL.AURXNCB  Wells,  late  incumbent  in  Shotts,  was  at  length  efieded  in  the 
year  1768.  Soon  after  this,  a  meeting-houfe  was  boilt,  to  which  the  great 
majority  of  the  people  called  a  Burgher  clergyman. 


56 


Statijlieal  Account 


and  Arithmetic  2S  6d.  During  the  harvcft  vacation,  which 
lafts  about  two  months,  the  fchoolmafter  receives  no  wages. 
Suppofing  the  fcholars  at  an  average  to  be  2;,  each  at  a 
medium  yiddJng  2S.,  the  teacher  earns  yearly  by  his  fchool 
H.  6s.  8d. ;  befides  an  offering  given  by  the  fcholars  at  Candle- 
mas, With  a  free  houfe,  2t.  los. ;  thefe,  with  a  yearly  falary  of 
160  merks  Scotch,  give  the  fchoolmafter  19!.  17s.  ^d.  pit  an^ 
numy  a  provifion  too  fcanty,  for  the  comfbrtable  fubfiftence  of 
one  qualified  to  difcharge  the  duties  of  this  important  office* 
There  has,  for  this  reafon,  been  thefe  30  years  paft  a  fuc- 
ceflion  of  teachers  in  Shotts,  unknown,  it  is  fuppofed,  in  any 
other  part  of  the  kingdom.  It  is  painful  to  add,  that,  cither 
through  the  total  want  of  a  fchool-mafter,  or  the  carelefsnefs, 
Ae  imprudence, -or  incapacity  of  thofe  in  this  office,  the  ris- 
ing generation,  for  thefe  ten  years  pad,  have,  in  the  golden 
feafon  (>f  youth, -been  in  a  great  raeafure  prevented  from  ac- 
quiring that  knowledge,  and  thofe  habits,  which,  in  the  fub- 
fequentpartof  life,  can  render  them  good  men,  and  good 
citizens.  For  the  fame  reafon,  oonnefted  with  the-  carclcfs- 
ncfs,  if  not  obftinacy  of  Secedcrs,  the  pariffa  records  of  Shotts 
are  fo  extremely  inaccurate  and  deficient,  that  no  decifion, 
even  for  the  fmalleft  average,  could  reft  upon  their  evidence. 
Poor. — ^The  poor  in  Shotts,  for  many  years  paft,  have  been 
fupported  by  aflcfTmcnt.  Upon  the  firft  Tuefdays  of  Feb- 
xxiary  and  Auguft»  agreeable  to  aft  of  Parliament,  the  heri- 
tors and  ciders  meet  in  a  conjunft  body.  After  the  num- 
ber to  be  admittted  upon  the  roll,  and  the  fupply  to  be  grao- 
fed  eachclaimant,  are  fettled,  the  fum  wanted  for  the  enfu<* 
ing  fix  months  is  laid  on.  This  the  treafurcr  is  authorifed  to 
to  levy,  the  one  half  from  the  heritors,  the  other  half  from 
the  tenants,  in  proportion  to  their  feveral  valuations.  At 
each  meeting  a  ftanding  committee  is  alfo  appointed,  to  fu- 
pcrintiend  the  operations  of  the  treafurcr,  and  to  give  advice 

or 


ofSbotts.  57 

ot  fupply  upon  extraordinaiy  emergencies  The  number 
upon  the  poor*s  roll  of  Shotts  may  be,  communibus  annisj  from 
20  to  28.  The  alloix'ance  granted  to  individuals  may  We 
each  month  from  2  s.  to  6  s  :  It  often  happens  that  there 
are  pcrfons  (landing  in  need  of  temporary  relief,  who  wifli 
not  to  be  put  upon  the  roll.  Their  cafe  at  each  meeting  is 
ulfo  confidered,  and  a  reafonable  allowance  granted.  The 
fum,  annually  rcquifite  for  all  the  above  mentioned  purpofes> 
may  be  about  50  1.  Sterling;  of  which,  40I.  or  therea- 
bout, is  raifcd  by  aficiTment;  the  mort- cloths  and  kirk-dues 
make  up  for  the  red.  This  plan,  in  a  pariQi  like  Shotts^ 
where  the  Seflaries  are  fo  numerous,  and  the  heritors  of  the 
greateft  valuation  do  not  refide,  feems  to  be  the  only  equi- 
table one  which  can  be  adopted. 

Population^ — ^The  enlargement  of  farms  has  produced  the 
fame  cffefls  in  Shotts  that  it  has  produced  in  other  places.  A- 
long  the  N.  and  £«  fides  of  this  parifh,  the  property  of 
the  Duke  of  Hamilton,  and  Sir  John  Inglis  of  Cramond,  the 
number  of  inhabitants  is  much  diminiihed.  Of  this,  the 
ruins  of  many  cottages,  and  even  of  fome  farm  fteadings,  afford 
the  mod  fatisfaAory  proofs.  The  pari(b>  however,  it  would 
appear,  has  of  late  been  upon  the  increafe  :  Within  thefe  12 
years  there  have  been  built  in  it,  and  are  now  poileiled,  35 
cottages  and  3  farm  (leadings,  for  this  the  late  increafe  of 
travellers  upon  the  great  road,  and  the  Omoa  Iron  work^tuf" 
ficiently  account.  The  total  decreafe  within  thefe  40  years 
is  Aated,  along  with  other  particulars,  in  the  following  table  : 

Population  table  of  the  parish  of  Shotts. 

No.  of  fouls  in  175 J,  as  returned  to  Dr  Webdcr  2322 

Ditto  in  1793  -  -  -  2C4C 

Decreafe  •  s-  •       ,     281 

Vol.  XV.  H  Acig. 


5-8  Statijlical  Account 


'  k 


\ 


'I. 
't 

jl  Ages  and  Sexes.  Males,  Females.  Total 

ij  Perfons  under  15  years  of  age,  384         324         708 

li  Ditto  above  that  age,  -  60 1         73  z       1333 

ii  In  all  985        1056       2041 

y      '  Proprietors,  Artists,   &c. 

t-A  Alajlerj.  yourMeymtm  or  jff^^reHticej.  TvtaL 

;ij                          No.  of  heritors,  refident  -            -            -       29 

— Ditto,  non-refident                 -  -                       16 

— ^Clergymcn,             -                 -  -                       a 

— School-maftcrs,                   -  -                -3 

— Surgeons,                     -             i  '              -                    i 

— ^Weavers*,        -               -       ^3  ^9             4^ 

— ^Licenfed  ale  and  fpirit  fellers,  -             -                   10 

-^Smiths,                -                      4  26 

— Shoemakers,                 -           10  4             14 

— Tailors,             -                        12  2              14 

•—Coopers,             -            -          i  -                 i 

—Colliers,                    -                -  .                     i5 

— Miners  employed  at  the  iron  work,  ^               80 

I  I  Religious  persuasions. 

'  ■  t, 

No.  of  families  belonging  to  the  Eftablifhed  Church,        122 
Ditto  Burgher  Seceders,  -  -»  -       363 

Ditto  Antiburghcrs,  -  -  -  16 

Ditto  Cameronians,  -  -  -  -17 

Total  number  of  families,  5 1 8 

Climate. — TIk  climate  varies  confiderably,  in  the  different 

» [i  parts  of  this  widely  extended  parifh.     In  the  low  parts  of  it, 

llretching  South,  and  South-Weft,  the  air  is  fenfibly  milder 

than 

*  Of  thefe  19  ^e  employed  in  faAory  work,  and  23  in  country  work. 


S! 


(^,  Sbotts.  59 

than  in  the  country  round  the  church.  An  impenetrable  tili, 
lying  at  the  bottom  of  a  thin  ipungy  black  foil,  keeps  the  fur- 
face  generally  moift  ;  this,  with  the  want  of  (helter  from  iri- 
clofureSi  and  belts  of  planting,  renders  the  air  more  penetra- 
ting and  chill  than  in  other  parts  of  the  country,  even  of 
the  fame  height,  where  thefe  improvements  have  been  fo 
happily  introduced  The  inhabitants,  however,  of  Shotts  are 
equally,  if  not  more  healthy,  than  thofe  who  live  in  a  warm- 
er climate*.  From  the  quantity  of  fuel  with  which  people 
of  all  ranks  are  here  fo  plentifully  fupplied,  dampnefs  with- 
in doors  produces  none  of  thefe  rheumatic  difdrders,  fo  pre- 
valent in  warmer  climates,  where  this  neceffary  article  is, 
from  it&  expence,  almoft  denied  to  the  bulk  of  the  people. 
The  renowned  and  immortal  Dr  Cullsn,  (who  began  his 
career  in  this  parifh,)  when  talking  upon  this  fubjed,  ufcd 
to  fay  that  Shotts  was  the  Montpelier  of  Scotland. 

Collieries. — By  feveral  late  trials,  conneftcd  with  former 
difcoveries,  it  now  appears,  that  the  whole  country  along  the 
South  fide  of  the  great  road,  from  the  confines  of  Whitburn 
parifh,  is,  for  lo  miles  Weft,  and  6  South,  all  covered  with 
coal.  In  the  parifh  of  Shotts^  which  occupies  a  confidcrable 
part  of  this  great  fpace,  there  are  4  collieries-  The  firft  of 
thefe  is  Benhary  the  property  of  Sir  John  Inglis  of  Cramond : 
with  this  coal,  which  is  of  the  beft  quality,  the  whole  country 
weft  of  Edinburgh  upon  the  great  road  is  chiefly  fupplied  \ 
nine  miners  have  here  conft^nt  employn^ent.  Thefe  bring 
annually  from  the  pitt  1 2,000  carts,  weighing  each  cart  near- 
ly 7  cwt.  The  price  at  the  hill,  within  diefe  few  years,  has 
rifen  from  1$.  to  i8d.  a  cart ;  the  total  annual  produ£l  of 
this  work  is  pool.  Sterling,  of  which  fum,  at  6d.  each  cart, 

H  2  30CI. 

•  Withio  thefe  4  years,  three  oU  perfons  have  died  in  the  parlAi  of  Shoct« ; 
the  firft,  at  his  death,  was  eotered  into  the  90th  year  of  his  age,  the  oCher  in 
the  92d,  and  the  third  in  the  88th  year  of  his  age. 


6e       ^  Stati/lical  Account 

300I.  Sterling  goes  to  the  miners.  Hellis  Rigg  coal,  the  pro- 
perty of  Colonel  William  Dalrymplc  of  Clcland,  lies  3  miles 
weft  of  Benhar.  The  feam  is  only  22  inches  thick ;  the  pro- 
prietor here  employs  3  miners,  more  with  a  view  to  two 
ftrata  of  iron  ftone,  of  an  excellent  quality,  than  to  the  coal, 
which»  partly  from  its  inferior  qaality,-  and  partly  from  want 
of  market,  fells  at  is.  the  cart,  the  purchafcr  pleafingbimfelf  as 
to  quantity.  Mr  Cleland  of  Auchinlee,  and  Mr  Cuming  of 
Crofs*ha1I,  tov^afds  the  Weft  end  of  tlie  parifli,hav^  great  fields 
of  coal  upon  their  lands.  Mr  Cleland's  feam  is  upwards  of  3 
feet  thick.  Mr  Cuming's  in  fome  places  is  3,  and  in  other 
places  9  feet  thick  \  each  of  thefe  gentlemen  at  prefent  only 
employ  two  miners ;  but  did  the  falc  profpcr,  it  would  give 
bread  to  a  much  greater  number.  Mr  Cuming's  coal  is  con- 
ntGttA,  both  with  the  ball  and  ftratum  ironvftone. 

Fuel. — Plentiful  as  the  coal  is  through  this  parifli,  yet,  in 
the  middle,  and  along  the  north  fide  of  it,  peat  is  chiefly  ufcd. 
This  is  almoft  at  every  man's  door,  and  is  prepared  :u  a  time 
when,  according  to  the  mode  of  farming  here  pra^iced,  little 
elfe  is  done. 

Propofed  CanaL — A  canal  leading  from  Edinburgh  to  Glas- 
gow was  laft  feafon  the  fubje£l  of  much  converfation.  Of  th{ 
three  traSs  propofed,  if  coal  be  the  leading  obje£l,  the  one 
South  of  the  kirk  of  Shotts  furely  merits  the  preference. 
Beds  of  free-ftoiie,  fame  of  them  of  a  very  fine  gr^in,  arc  fre- 
quent in  this  parifh,  and  the  whin-ftone  in  the  centre  of  it 
may  be  faid  to  be  inexhauftible. 

Iron  WVij.-T-The  Omoa  iron  work,  the  property  of  Co- 
lonel William  Dairymple  of  Cleland,  lies  on  the  confines  of 
this  parifli,  towards  the  South- Weft.  It  was  erefled  in  1 787. 
The  fituation  of  this  work  is  peculiarly  eligible.  The  Colonel 
has  throughout  his  eftate  here,  which  is  of  conGderable  ex- 
tent, a  feam  of  coal  2  feet  5  inches  thick  5  2  feet  sbove  the 

^oalj 


f 


ofSbotts.  6i 

coal,  ball  iron-ftonc  is  found,  the  balls  lying  pretty  near  each 
other.  This  (lone  is  fupcrior  to  any  thing  of  the  kind,  hither- 
to  found  in  this  part  of  the  country :  3  c  wt.  of  calcined  ftonc 
yield  1  c wt.  of  metal  \  it  fmelts  alfo  without  the  help  of  iron 
ore. .  Two  feet  nearer  the  furface  there  are  two  ftrata  of  iron 
ftone,  each  from  6  to  9  inches  thick.  Below  the  2  feet  5 
inches  of  coal,  there  is  another  coal  9  feet  in  thicknefs,  of  an 
excellent  quality.  There  is  here  each  day  raifed  36  tons  of 
coal,  26  tons  of  which  go  to  the  furnace ;  the  other  ten,  from 
their  fmallnefs,  being  unfit  for  charring,  either  ferve  to  blow 
the  engine,  or  are  fold  to  the  country.  Nine  tons  of  calcined 
ftone  a- day  go  to  the  furnace,  which  cads  at  the  interval  of 
1 8  hours,  and  yields  about  two  tons  of  pig  iron,  generally  of 
an  excellent  quality.  There  is  here  a  cupola  blown  by  the  en- 
gine, which  produces  caft  work  of  any  form  employers  pleafe. 
Orders  of  this  fort,  anfwered  by  Colonel  Dalryniple,  have 
given  great  fatisfa£lion.  The  cqal  is  raifed  here  from  i8d 
to  2od  per  ton,  (the  coal  falling  below  4  inches  fquare  ex^ 
cepted),  which  brings  the  miner  only  94d.  a  ton :  Ball  iron 
ftone  in  railing  28.  6d  :  Stratum  iron  ftone  i8d.,,  There  axe 
employed  here  40  miners,  befides  other  40  fmelters  andper- 
,  fons  otherwife  engaged,  and  1 2  horfes.  The  weekly  expencc 
at  this  work  is  Sol  Sterling,  which  finding  its  way  to  farmers 
and  workmen  of  every  clafs  in  the  neighbourhood,  improves 
their  fituation  beyond  what  hitherto  they  had  experienced, 
in  this  inland  country.  Another  iron  work  is,  againft  the  en- 
fuing  fpring,  (1794,^  to  be  qrcdled  upon  Mr  David  Young's 
lancis  of  Little  HairQiaw,  which  ly  about  a  mile  S.  W.  of  the 
kirk  of  Shotts.  The  gentlemen  engaged  in  this  work  fay, 
there  is  throughout  the  parifh  of  Shotts  fuch  a  profufion  of 
coal  and  iron  ftone,  as  might,  and  in  all  probability  foon  will 
employ  feveral  fuch  furnaces  as  the  one  now  blown  in  it. 

Should 


t±  Statifikal  Account 

Should  this  prophecy  be  verifiedi  wh&t  a  change  in  the  ap* 
pearance  and  produfi  of  Shottt  may  be  expeAed ! 

Prises  of  Labour  and  Provi/hns. — An  expert  pl^aghmatl 
gets  1 2I.  Sterling  annuiilly  ;  an  afliftanl  ibout  1 8  years  old,  61. 
Sterling ;  a  herd  about  12  years  old,  through  the  hefding  fea- 
fon,  20s;  a  dairymaid,  or  houfe  fehrdiit,  annually,  3L  i6»; 
each  of  thefe  have  bed  and  board  fumiihed  ;  a  day-labourer 
hdm  March  to  November  1 4d  a-day ;  the  four  remaining 
months  1  id  a«day.  During  the  harveft  feafon,  men  reccfv^ 
I4d.  women  lod.  with  ^roviGons  futniflicd.  A  tailor  geti 
8d.  tkrith  his  viftuals ;  a  mafon  artd  carpenter,  each  finding 
their  own  provifions,  aod.  Each  of  thefe  claflea  of  labourers 
have,  within  thefe  lad  eight  years,  rifen  one  third  in  their  de- 
mands 5  at  ptefent,  however,  wages  feem  tather  to  be  moving 
in  alt  oppofite  direftion.— ^-Meal  throughout  this  country 
may  be  rated  at  i^d.  a  peck  below  the  Glafgo^  market.  The 
great  quantities  of  Merfe  meal  brought  from  the  Dalkeith 
market,  and  cartied  through  this  patifh  to  Glafgaw,  con- 
tribute chiefly  to  produce  this  effeft.  Frefh  butter  fells  at 
M.  a  pound  ;  falted  butter  fjer  ftone  las ;  ftim'd  milkcheefe 
5s.  4d.  a  ftone  ;  butter  and  cheefe  Weight  22  oz  ;  a  hen  i4d  -, 
chickens  from  8d.  to  lod.  a  paif,  eggs  5d  a  dozen.  Carriers 
picking  up  and  carrying  thefe  articles,  either  to  Glafgow  or 
Edinburgh,  heighten  their  prices  very  much  to  thofe  who 
dwell  upon  the  great  road. 

Emitiint  Men. — Shotts  has  given  birth  to  two  perfons  ftill 
i^iveofvcrydiftinguifhcd  merit •,  viz.  Gavin  Hamilton  Efq; 
of  Murdifton,  the  mofl:  celebrated  hiftory  painter  now  in 
Europe,  and  John  Miller,  Efq;*  profeflbr  of  law,  in  the 
univerGty  of  Glafgow,  well  known  to  the  world  by  his  in- 
genious publications. 

•  This  gentleman  is  by  miUakc  rcprefcntcd  a»  a  native  of  Hamilton ; 
Stat.  Account  Vol  a  page  aoa. 


of  Sbqttf.  «3 

Atitiqulties There  is  upon  tlie  great  road,  immediately 

below  the  church,  a  copious  fountain  of  excellent  wat;er, 
known  by  the  name  of  Catis  er  Kate's  WelL  This  name  it  no 
doubt  got  from  St.  Catharine  to  whom  it  wa$  dedicated*  A« 
bout  a  mile  South^Weft  from  the  kirk,  there  is  a  fmall  conical 
mount,  called  Laws-caftle.  This  name  feems  to  indicate,  that 
fome  fprtrefs  had  once  ftood  upon  it  \  but  if  there  ever  did, 
there  is  no  ve&ige  of  it  now  remaining,  except  perhaps  a 
quantity  of  ftones  of  enormous  weight  and  fize, 

Characierofihe  People, — Although  there  are  lo  houfes 
licenced  to  fell  malt  and  fpiritous  liquors  of  home  manu- 
fdclure,  they  are  chiefly  fupported  by  the  travellers  on  the 
great  road.  Even  in  thofe  parts  of  the  pariih,  where  public 
houfes  abound  moft,  intemperance  is  not  a  prevailing  vice. 
The  people,  with  a  few  exceptions,  are  indullrious  and  fo- 
ber.  Since  the  prefent  minifter's  conne£^ion  with  Shotts, 
'  and  he  believes  for  many  years  before  that  period,  criminal 
profccutions  have  been  unknown,  one  profecution  for  mur- 
der excepted,  where  the  libel  .was  not  proven.  Each,  it 
would  appear,  fober  and  contented  with  the  fruits  of  his  own 
induftry,  feels  but  little  of  thofe  paflions  whofe  indulgence 
terminate  in  ignominy  and  death. 

Advantages  and  Dif advantages, — ^The  perfeft  command  of 
fuel  is  the  principal  advantage  which  the  inhabitants  of  tills 
parifti  enjoy.  It  is  rather  furprifmg  that  this  circumftance, 
connedled  with  fo  eafy  an  intercourfe  between  Glafgow  and 
Edinburgh,  has  not,  long  ere  now,  paved  the  way  to  the  in- 
trodu£tion  and  growth  of  manufa£tures  in  Shotts.  This, 
however,  had  not  trade  lately  received  fo  fevere  a  check  by 
the  war,  would  in  all  probability  foon  have  been  the  cafe. 
The  fields  of  mofs  with  which,  for  two  miles  on  each  fide 
of  the  great  road,  this  parifli  is  interfe£led,  are  a  difadvantage 
from  which  the  proprietors  of  Shotts  can  promife  themfelves 

no 


64  Statijlical  Account 

no  deliverance.  The  flatnefs  of  the  fields^  and  the  barren 
hill)  which  lies  at  the  bottom  of  the  mofs)  exclude  every  idea 
of  cultivation,  from  the  mind  even  of  the  moft  adventurous 
improver.  It  may  be  added,  as  another  difadvantage,  that 
throughout  this  extenfivc  parifti  there  are  but  two  or  three  fmall 
villages,  and  that  in  other  parts  of  it  the  houfes  are  fo  dif* 
tan^  from  each  other,  that  the  education  of  children  cannot 
be  obtained,  without  much  fatigue  to  the  young  one?,  and  cx- 
pcnce  to  the  parents. 


NUMBER 


of  Locbwinnoch.  ^5 


NUMBER    HI. 


PARISH    OF   LOCHWINNOCH, 


(County  of  Renfrew,  Presbytery  oe  Paisley,  Synod 
OF  Glasgow  and  Ayr.) 


By  the  Rev.  Mr  James  Steven,  Minijler. 


Name  J  Exfeniy  Soil  and  Surface^  isfc, 

m,  jOCHwiNNocH  feems  to  be  derived  from  the  large  locli  or 
lake,  which  is  nearly  in  the  center  of  the  pariQi,  and  St. 
Winnoch^  or  Jfinnioci\  under  whofe  protection  it  was  fuppot 
fed  to  have  been  placed  in  the  dark  ages,  and  whofe  name 
ftill  remains,  although  his  hiftory  is  buticd  in  oblivion*  This 
parifli  extends  to  about  6  miles  iquare.  The  foilis  extreme- 
ly various.  The  higher  grounds,  exclufive  of  muir,  coih 
fiftof  a  light  dry  foil  on  whin-ftone,  or  rotten  rock,  and  pro^ 
d\^ce  a  great  quantity  of  very  rich  grafs  and  natural  white 
clover.  The  lower  grounds  conilfl:  of  clay  and  loam,  and 
produce  good  crops  of  every  kfnd. 
Vol,  XV.  '  1  CiimaU, 


06  Statiftical  Account 

Clmaie^  Dlfeafesj  Hillsj  ^c. — ^Thc  air  is  rather  moift,  from 
the  frequent  rains  which  prevail  in  the  weftern  parts  of  Scot- 
land, but  this  circuinftance  does  not  appear  to  z^cGt  the 
health  of  the  inhabitants,  many  of  whom  die  of  old  age. 
Confumptions,  fevers,  and  fore  throats,  are  the  mod  com- 
mon difeafes  in  this  parifli.  The  moft  remarkable  hill  in 
the  pari(h  is  the  Mifiy-LaiVy  which  rifes  to  the  height  of  i  240 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  fea  ;  and  commands  from  its  fum- 
xnit  an  exteniive  and  varied  profpe£t  over  12  counties,  inclu- 
ding the  Frith  of  Clyde,  and  the  iflands  of  Arran,  Bute,  ^\\~ 
fa,  &c.  This  hill  is  furrounded  by  the  muirland  part  of  the 
pariih,  which  abounds  with  game,  and  affords  tolerable  paf"- 
ture  for  (heep, 

Lakesy  Fj/bf  Birds,  Rivers^  and  Mills, — There  are  two 
lakes  in  this  parifli,  Caftlifemple  Locb^  and  ^uenftdeLoch.  The 
iormer  was,  fome  time  ago,  attempted  to  be  drained  with? 
out  fuccefs,  and  is  now  made  a  moft  beautiful  piece  of  water, 
containing  above  400  acres,  in  which  there  are  plenty  of  pikes, 
perches,  and  eels.  It  alfo  abounds  with  fwai^s,  g^efe,  ducks, 
teals,  bitterns,  and  other  kinds  of  wild  fowl.  The  beauty  of 
this  piece;  of  water  is  confiderably  increafed,  by  the  well  drct 
fed  grounds  and  good  quantity  of  wood  which  furrounds  it. 
^leenfideLoch  is  fituated  in  the  muirs,  and  contains  about 
ai  acres ;  it  forms  an  excellent  refervoir,  for  fupplying  two 
large  cotton  mills  in  the  village  of  Lochwinnoch.  The  prin- 
cipal  rivers  arc  the  Cafder,  whofe  banks,  from  a  union  of 
wood,  water  and  rugged  rocks,  exhibit  a  variety  of  roman- 
tic and  piflurefque  fcenery^  and  the  B/aci  Cart.  The  Cal- 
der  flows  into  CaftlefempleLoch,  and  the  Black  Cart  is  the 
inlet  from  it.  On  thefe  two  rivers,  7  very  large  cotton 
mills  have  been  erefted  within  thefe  few  years. 

JFoodf. 


of  Locbwinnoch '  67 

B^Wx.— There  arc  wot  above  30  acres  of  natural  \trood  in 
this  parifti,  but  the  proprietors  of  Caftlefemple  have  made 
very  extenfive  plantations,  which,  from  the  goodnefs  of  the 
foil,  and  the  attention  paid  to  them,  ate  in  a  very  flourifli- 
ing  ftatc.  They  extend  at  prefent  to  above  400  acres,  ani 
will  probably  receive  confiderablc  additions  from  the  pirefent 
jproprictor.  It  may  be  worthy  of  remark,  that  In  thinning  " 
ibme  plantations  at  Caftlefemple,  from  29  to  35  years  old, 
each  larch  fold  at  from  1 2  s.  to  22  s,  and  the  bcft  of  any  of 
the  other  trees  did  not  bring  a  higher  price  than  55, 

Roads, — ^The  roads  were  fome  years  ago  in  a  wretched  flate, 
hilly,  narrow,  and  almoft  impaffable  in  wet  weather,  but  many 
of  them  are  now  excellent,  and  great  improvements  may  im- 
mediately be  expcfted,  from  two  new  lines  of  turn-pike  road, 
propofed  to  be  carried  through  the  parifh  to  Kilbimic  and 
Port-Glafgow.  The  turn-pike  roads  in  this  parifh  are  con- 
nefted  by  private  roads,  to  the  making  and  repairing  of  which 
laft  the  convcrfion  of  the  ftaiute  labour,  ambunting  tb  above 
TTDol.  Sterling  a  year,  is  folely  applied. 

Ecclejtaftical  State. — ^The  greater  part  df  the  inhabitants  at- 
tend the  eftabliihcd  chutch,  And  there  arc  not  above  loe  Se* 
ccders,  Burghers,  &c.  in  the  parifti.  William  M'Dowallj 
Efq;  of  Gafthland  is  patron.  The  ftipend  oonfifts  of  i  ij  bolls 
of  meal,  and  2I.  of  vicarage  j  and  although  the  glebe  contains 
only  fix  acres,  yet  from  its  fituation  it  Is  worth  about  1  il; 
Sterling  yearly.  An  augmentation  has  been  lately  propofed 
to  the  heritors  by  the  patron,  to  which  they  have  unanimoof* 
ly  agreed.  The  church  is  very  well  fiiiifticd,  and  contains  a- 
bout  1300  people;  the  manfc  is  beautifully  fituated  about 
300  yards  from  the  village,  and  320L  have  been  lately  ex-^ 

I  1  pande4 


68  Staiijlical  Account 

pended  in  putting  It  into  complete  rq>air|  and  building  a  new 
fet  of  offices. 

Scko$l — ^The  fchool,  which  is  fituated  in  the  village^  is  com- 
modiousj  and  the  falary  of  old  amounted  to  2co  merks  \  but 
as  the  parifli  is  divided  by  the  Jake,  the  proprietor  on  the 
fouth  fide  wilhed  to  have  a  fchool  in  diat  diftricl^  and  ob- 
tained 50  merks.  The  people  eredled  a  fchool- houfe  at  their 
own  txpehce,  and  the  emoluments  of  the  teacher  employed 
by  them  are  about  17I.  Sterling  yearly  :  the  falary 'and  emolu- 
ments of  the  pariHi  fchoolmaflier  amount  to  about  30I.  an- 
nually. 

Pocr. — The  number  of  poor  on  the  parifli  roll  is  at  pre- 
fent  20,  and  they  receive  from  is.  6d.  to  4s.  each,  per  week* 
This  fupply  arifcs  from  70L  or  80I.  collefted  annually  at  the 
church  door,  and  -from  the  inter  eft  of  a  few  donations,  and 
of  a  fmallfund  belonging  to  the  poor.  There  are  two  fo- 
cieties  cftabhiheii.  in  the  parifli,  for  fupplying  the  necef&ties 
of  indigent  members,  ai\d  their  inflitution  has  been  produc- 
tive of  much  advantage. 

AfiiiquitUs*. — ^Thc  old  Qhapel^  or  cfoltege  of  Caftlt'&m* 

pie 

•  A  very  fine  brafs  cannon,  with  the  arms  of  Scotland,  and  J.  R.  S.  en- 
graved on  it,  was  found  many  years  ago  in  the  lake,  where  other  6  are  re- 
ported by  tradition  to  "have  been  loft.  Several  canoes  have  been  lately  found 
in  the  lake,  about  i  feet  beiow!  the  furface,  which  evidently  prove  the  hrge 
Coicftt  that  muft  have  .formc;rly  exifted,  in  this  part  of  the  country,  as  they 
have  been  formed  in  a  rude  manner,  like  the  Indian  canoes,  ont  of  lingle  trees. 
About  60  years  ago,  a  laale  of  Corinthian  brafs  was  found  within  a  mile  of 
the  village,  and  the  handle  ftiU  remains  entire,  at  the  end  of  which  there  is 
a  ^auttliil  nm*a  head.  It  is  in  the  polfcflion  of  Mr  Barclay,  inn-keeper  at 
L^wioBOch. 


of  lacbwinnocb.  69 

pUt%  ftill  remains cnttTCy  is  completdf  covered  iK4t!h iiry,  smi 
is  ufcd  as  a  burying  place.  7%f  Pa/7,  or  PW^,  an  old  cafti^ 
ftands  in  an  ifland  in  the  lake,  and  has  been  formerly  a  place 
of  confiderable  ftrength,  to  which  the  lairds  of  Semple  re- 
treated in  feudal  times,  when  unable  to  hold  out  in  the  caftle 
of  Semple  againft  their  powerful  enemies. 

Mweralst  Magnetic  Rock^  ^c-rCoal,  lime,  and  free- 
ftone  abound  in  different  parts  of  this  pariih,  and  a  very  An- 
gular magnetic  rock  has  been  difcovered  two  miles  from 
Caftle-Sempk.  -  The  compafs  was  Cenfibly  afFeAed  all  round 
the  rock,  to  th6  diftance  of  1 50  yards.  The  cffeft  was  moft 
remarkable  on  the  eaft  and  weft  fide  of  it,  and  in  every  direc- 
tion it  was  greater,  as  the  compafs  was  nearer  to  die  rode  it- 
felf.  In  its  immediate  vicinity,  or  nearly  in  a  perpendicular 
dire£lion  above  it,  the  pofition  of  the  needle  was  very  un- 
fteady  and  irregular,  and  as  the  compafs  was  gradually  brought 
nearer  the  ground,  the  deviation  from  the  magnetic  meridiaa 
was  more  remarkable,  and  the  vibrations  more  rapid. .  When 
the  compafs  was  fet  on  the  ground,  the  north  pole  of  the 
needle  invariably  diret^ed  itfelf  to  one  very  fmali  Ipaceof  die 
rock,  on  whatever  Tide  of  it  the  needle  was  placed. 

Houfts  and  Jl^nufa^ures  —When  the  prefcnt  incttmbent  waas 
fettled  in  this  parifli,  no  new  houfes  were  building  in  the  vlU 
lage  ;  and  although  from  its  vicinity  to  Paiiley,  fevcral  people 
were  employed  in  weaving  filk,  gauze^  and  lawns,  as  well  as  m 
the  manufa£ture  of  thready  which  is  carried  on  to  a  -coafider- 

53 

5  This  chapel  was  founded  by  John  firft  Lord  Semple,  in  the  year  1505, 
**  in  honour  of  God,  and  the  blcfled  Virgin  Mary  ;  and  for  the  profperityof 
*<  King  James  IV.  and  Margaret  his  queen,  and  for  the  falvation  of  his  owa 
**>  foul»  and  the  foub  of  hit  two  wives,'    &c. 


JO  Statijiical  Account 

sble  extent}  yet  U  had  a  very  poor  appearance.  Since  that  pfcriod 
53  new  houfes  have  been  built ;  many  additional  feus  have  been 
granted  by  Mr  M*Dowall  the  proprietor;,  and  the  population, 
the  wealth  and  the  induftry  of  its  inhabitants  have  been  in- 
creafed  in  a  moft  furprinng  degree,  within  a  very  (hort  time. 
The  local  fituation  of  Lochwinnoch  is  extremely  favourable, 
from  its  being  in  the  neighbourhood  of  coal,  lime,  and  free- 
Hone,  and  froni  its  being  abundantly  fupplicd  with  fine  fpring 
water  ;  but  its  rapid  increafe  has  been  principally  occafioned 
by  the  ereftion  of  t^t>  large  cotton  mills,  by  Meffi*s  Henfton, 
Burns  and  Co.  and  Mefirs  Johnftons  and  Co.  The  mill  erec- 
ted by  Mefirs  Henftoii,  Bums  and  Co,  employs  at  prefcnt 
140,  and  when  finifhcd  will  employ  about  350  people.  The 
wheel  is  24  feet  diameter,  and  is  fupplied  with  water  from 
a  circular  dam,  builc  acrofs  the  river  Calder,  19  feet  8  inches 
high,  and  85  feet  in  circumference  :  the  number  of  fpindles 
in  this  mill  will  amount  to  9144.  The  mill  erefted  by 
Mcffrs  Johnftons  and  Co,  which  is  164  feet  long,  33  feet 
wide,  and  3;  feet  high,  is  fupplied  with  water  from  the  mill 
of  Meilirs  Henfton,  Burns  and  Co,  employs  at  prefent  240 
people,  and  when  the  machinery  is  completed,  will  employ 
600 :  the  wheel  is  2*2  feet  in  diameter  and  10  feet  broad  ;  the 
fpindles  in  this  mill  will  amount  to  19,485.  A  cotton  milt 
haa  been  ere£ted  half  a  mile  from  the  village^  on  a  fmaller 
fcale,  which  will  employ  about  80  people :  Mcffrs  Johnftons 
and  Co.  arc  at  prefent  procuring  a  very  large  field,  adjoin- 
ing to  their  cotton  mill,  for  bleaching,  which  is  carried  orl 
with  great  activity  and  fpirit  by  Mr  Henry  Wilfon,  in  a  dif- 
ferent part  of  the  parifh  :  339,  612  yards  of  dimities,  mufli- 
nets,  jaconets,  and  booked  muflins,  from  lod.  to  20s.  per 
yard,  and,  4000.  fpintls  of  thread  and  yarn,  were  bleached  by 
him  in  1791,  and  45  people  were  employed  in  the  work. 


of  Locbwinnocb.  ;i 

jile-H^uJes. — ^In  this  parifli,  there  arc  14  ale-houfes,  which 
fliould  be  confiderably  dimimlhed.  It  is  to  be  expe£led  from 

fomc  refolutions  lately  publi(hed,  that  the  juftices  of  the  peace, 
to  whofe  fuperintendance  this  material  ofaje£l  of  police  is 
committed  by  the  Legiflature,  will  take  this  fubje£l  ferioufly 
into  their  conflderation,  and  apply  an  eSeiEiual  remedy  to  an 
evil,  which  is  produdivc  of  the  moft  pernicious  confequen- 
ces  to  the  health,  the  morals,  and  the  induftry  of  the  people- 

Population  and  Employments,- — The  following  table  exhi- 
bits, at  one  view,  the  great  increafe  of  nie  population  of  this 
parilh,  as  well  as  the  various  employments  of  the  inhabi- 
tants. 

Population  tab^e  of  the  parish  of  Lochwinnoch, 


A^o.  of  Families.              Males. 

Females.     TctaL 

In  the  year  1695,         290 

In 1791,         557                   1289 

1324          2613 

In ^ *7S5» 

1530 

Increafe, 

1083 

In  the  village,                                       557 

557        '^'4 

In  the  country,                                     732 

767        14^9 

Professions. 

Tarmcn,            -            -            148      Wrights, 

3^ 

Employed  in  the  cotton  mills,       380      Maiwns, 

fi7 

Weavers,            -            -              135       Smiths 

31 

Tailors,             -               -               19      Surgeons, 

% 

Shoemakers,           -           -          14      Minifter, 

X 

Oroccff,  •           .             .             a      Writer, 

z 

$akers»               .              .              j^      School-mafters,             -                 % 

Butchery             -           -              a      Alc-fcUers, 

14 

Abstract  ^Births andMAKKiAGEsfor  thi lajl  twi^ve years. 

Years.          Males-          Females. 

lotal.    Marriages. 

1780                22                 16 

38                 26 

1 7  81                 20                29 

49                23 

_ 

1782 

7^  StatiJHcal  Account 


J78J 

24 

i5 

40 

22 

rji-i 

25 

30 

55 

20 

J  784 

%9 

23 

52 

28 

'785 

33 

a6 

59 

3t 

1786 

3« 

19 

50 

18 

1787 

3» 

39 

70 

26 

1788 

23 

24 

47 

II 

178$^ 

3<S 

24 

60 

21 

1790 

33 

26 

60 

«9 

1791 

29 

39 

68 

19 

Total, 

336 

3" 

648 

264 

Annual  avenge 

,    28 

25 

54 

22 

Longevity. — Margaret  Patton,  who  was  bom  in  this 
parifh,  is  menlioncd  by  Lynch  on  health,  as  a  remarkable  in- 
llance  of  longevity.  Her  pifture  and  a  print  from  it,  which 
the  writer  of  this  account  has  feen,  were  done  from  the  lifc> 
by  J»  Cooper  in  1739,  with  the  following  infcription : "  Mar- 
«  garet  Patton,born  in  the  parifh  of  Loghnagh,  near  Paifley 
^  in  Scotland,  living  in  the  work-houfe  of  St  Margarets^ 
**  Wcftmiiifter,  aged  138  years.-' 

Rent  and  Proprietors. — ^The  valued  rent  of  the  parifli  is 
6^9  2I.  6s.  8d.  Scotch,  and  the  real  rent  about  7 600I.  Ster- 
ling. Mr  M^Dowall  is  proprietor  of  a  confiderable  part  of 
the  parifli,  and  the  remainder  holds  of  him  as  fuperiov, 
with  a  few  exceptions.  The  other  proprietors  amount  to 
120,  and  the  uncommon  number  of  them  feems  to  have  a- 
rifen,  from  the  feus  granted  by  the  families  of  Dundonald 
and  Semple,  who  were  formerly  proprietors  of  the  greater 
part  of  this  parifli.  They  refide  in  general  in  the  parifli,  mar- 
ry into  each  other's  families,  and  cultivate  their  own  property, 

to 


^  Locbwinnoch.  73 

to  which,  they  are  particularly  attacliLed.  TKtir  houfcs  arc 
comfortable,  many  of  them  extremely  good^  and  the  old  wood^ 
of  plane  and  afli  trees,  with  which  they  arc  univerfally  for* 
rounded,  contribute  much  to  the  beauty  of  the  country. 

Agriculturey  Farm  Rents^  Produce,  fa'r. — •The  arable  land 
of  this  parifli  amounts  to  5476  acres,  of  which  1494  arc  year- 
ly in  tillage ;  and  it  is  all  enclofed  with  ftonc  walls,  hedges, 
or  funk  fences,  ^^ith  a  hedge  planted  at  a  proper  diflance 
-from  the  bottom,  which  is  a  very  ftrcng  ^nd  beautiful  fence. 
The  rent  of  the  land  is  from  12s.  Sterling  to  2I.  per  acre  ;  and 
tlie  farms  are  generally  let  for  19  years,  at  ffom  15 1.  to  iioL 
annually.  A  certain  proportion  of  the  arable  land  is  likewife 
let  to  the  manufacturers  in  fmall  lots.  The  tenants  are  bounds 
by  their  leafes,  to  plow  2,  and  reft  4  years,  and  to  have  on- 
ly one  third  of  the  farm  in  tillage.  They  put  their  whole 
manure  on  the  firft  year,  and  lay  down  the  fecond  crop  with 
rye-grafs  and  clover,  which  is  a  confiderable  improvement^ 
though  it  has  only  become  a  common  prafticc  within  thefd 
few  years*  0«ts,  (which  are  fown  in  March  and^eaped  in 
September,)  and  potatoes,  are  the  principal  crops  in  this  pa- 
ri (h.  Barley,  or  rather  bear^  is  like  wife  raifcd  in  fmall  quan- 
tities ;  and  the  culture  of  flax  has  been  attended  with  fiiccefs, 
and  has  entitled  many  of  the  farmers  to  premiums.  From 
the  nature  of  the  foil,  which  produces  tery  fine  paflure,  wprth 
from  58,  to  303.  a  great  quantity  of  butter  and  cheefe  is  an- 
nually made  ;  and  the  farmers  principally  depend  on  the  fale 
of  thefe  articles,  and  the  rearing  of  cattle,  to  the  breed  o£ 
which  they  are  particularly  attentive* 

HorfeSi  Cattle^  Shiep,  {jfc. — ^The  horfes  are  remarkably  good^ 
and  the  milk  cows  fell  at  from  61.  to  1 2 1.  The  total 
number  of  thefe,  and  the  other  live  ftock,  are  as  follows  : 


74  Statijlical  Account 


Horfei, 

-        170 

Milk  cows 

IIOX 

BuUs 

43 

Mares 

63 

Fat  ditto 

426 

Sheep 

-        a866 

Coles 

77 

Young  cattle 

574 

Swine 

4* 

Prices  of  Labour  and  Pravijions. — Men  fervants  hired  by  the 
year  receive  from  jo  1.  to  12  1. 5  maid  fervants  4  1. ;  mafons 
per  day,  from  2  s.  to  2  s.  2d ;  wrights  from  is.  8d.  to  2s,  and 
mill- Wrights  Jis  high  as  2S.-6d  j  a  day-labourer  from  ts.  4d.  to 
I  s.  8d  ;  oat  meal  fells  at  from  16  s.  to  17s  6d.  per  boll ;  beef 
and  mutton  from  4d.  to  7d,  per  lb  ;  butter  from  lod.  to  1  id  ; 
cheefe,  made  of  flamed  milk,  from  2d.  to  3d,  and  of  fweet 
milk,  from  4 J  to  6d  j  eggs  at  from  5d.  to  pd.  per  dozen; 
potatoes  from  ics.  to  n^, per  boll.;  hens  from  is.  2d.  to  is. 
6d  ;  and  chickens  from  4d.  to  6d.  each. 

Advantages  and  Hints  for  Improvement, — The  advantages  of 
this  parifh  arife  from  the  plenty  of  coal,  lime  and  free-ftone 
in  the  gredteft  part  of  it ;  from  its  vicinity  to  Paiflcy,  Port- 
Glafgow  and  Greenock  ;  from  the  good  roads  already  made, 
(including  the  new  lines  of  road  to  be  immediately  fei  on  foot) 
and  from  the  rapid  increafe  of  manufaftures,  which  muft 
very  confiderably  augment  the  value  of  the  land.  With 
thefc  ^vantages,  it  is  hoptd  that  many  of  the  feuers  and 
farmers,  who  pcrfift  in  the  old  fafhbned  fyftem  of  agricul- 
ture, may  be  induced,  from  the  example  of  others,  and  a  re- 
gard for  their  own  intereft,  to  ufe  better  implements  of 
husbandry,  to  follow  a  proper  rotation  of  crops,  and  to  at- 
tempt the  culture  of  turnips,  which  are  particularly  adapted 
to  the  foil  of  this  parifli. 


NUMBER 


of  Twynebolm  and  Kirk^CbrisL  75 


NUMBER  IV. 


UNITED  PARISHES   of   TWTNE- 
HOLM  AND  KIRK-CHRIST 


(County  and  Presbytery  of  Kirkcudbright,  Synod  of 
Galloway.) 

By  the  Re^v.  Dr.  John  Scott,  Minijler. 


""TT 


Origin  of  the  Name. 

\  radition  hath  handed  down  a  report,  that  nigh  to  the 
(^urch,  a  great  battle  was  fought,  and  a  king  flain.  A  large 
fingle  block  of  granite,  fet  up  upon  one  end,  is  (howp  as  the 
monument  of  the  unfortunate  monarch ;  and  fome  derive  the 
name  of  the  pariih  from  the  vanguiHied  being  obliged  to 
Twynehatne^  that  is,  to  return  homeward  in  a  winding  direc- 
tion. 

Forffif  Extentj  and  Situation* — The  form  of  the  united  Pa- 

rifties  of  Tyvynetolm,  or  Twynekame^  (as  it  is  anciently  and 

perhaps  n^ore  properly  wrote,)  and  Kirl-Cbrijty  is  oblong; 

Ka  the 


j6  Statijlical  Accouni 

the  extent  is  about  9  mics  by  2  ;  though,  from  the  rcmotcft 
houfe  in  the  one  end  to  the  remotcll  houfe  in  the  other,  the 
direft  diftancc  will  ilot  beniuch  above  6  miles.  The  river  Dee 
divides  them  from  Kirkcudbright,  upon  the  S.  S.  E.  and  S. 
E.  and  th:  water  of  Tarf  from  Tongland  upon  the  E :  A 
pnall  bay  of  the  fea  waihes  the  coaft  from  the  W.  to  the  S. 

Surface  and  Soil. — Tlie  furface  is  moftly  high-hnd,  and,  fecn 
at  a  diftance,  looks  like  an  elevated  plain  ;  but  when  entered 
upon,  it  rifes  into  knolls  and  arable  hills,  with  fmall  valleys  and 
fome  merfe  land  upon  the  borders  of  thp  Tarf  and  the  Dec, 
until  you  approach  the  extremity  towards  the  N.  W.  by  N., 
when  the  view  is  bounded  by  hills  covered  with  heath.*— 
The  foil  is  various,  and  generally  formed  from  ragy  and  what  is 
/called  in  this  country,  raiUnfoney  decompound<;d  by  the  in- 
flucnce  of  fun  and  air,  &c.  and  fallen  into  earth.  A  great  part 
of  the  foil  lies  upon  this  kind  of  rock,  and  fome  of  it  upon 
a  till  bottom.  There  are  clay,  mois,  gx;avcliy,  and  fandy 
foils,  though  very  little  of  this  lad.  In  general,  the  foil  is 
light,  dry  and  rich,  and,  when  properly  managed,  repays  the 
induftrious  farmer  with  exuberant  crops  of  grafs  and  corn. 

Climate  and  Dtfeafes. — A  good  deal  of  rain  falls  generally 
upon  the  weft  coaft,  and  thefe  pariflies  have  their  (hare  of 
it,  but  not  more  than  what  is  neceflary,  confidering  the  dry- 
nefs  of  the  foil. — Bordering  uf  on  the  Weftern  Ocean,  our 
frofts  in  winter  are  of  fliort  continuance,  and  fnow  very  fei- 
jdom  lies  fo  long,  as  to  do  material  damage  to  the  ftorc  farr 
mcr.  The  height  of  the  ground  in  general,  the  drynefs  of  the 
foil,  and  the  fea  air,  all  contribute  to  the  health  of  the  inha- 
bitants \  (o  that  for  3 1  years,  no  epidemical  difcafe  *  has 

foil, 

♦  About  30  ycwf  aj;o,  the  ague  prevaflcd,  biit  for  many  yews  it  feemi  cp 

b^vc 


ofTwynebolmandKirkJObrisL  77. 

^n  Ifnown  to  prevaili  except  the  fmall-pox  and  meazlej. 
]«noc\iladon  is  almoft  univcrfally^  pra£lifed  amoiigft  all  rank^ 
which  prevents  the  ravages  of  that*  loathfoxne  difeafe  tlie 

ihiail'pox. 

1 

Lahes^  Riversy  Fip^  M'lllsy  ^c, — ^Thc  variegated  furfacc, 
and  the  rifing  hills,  malce  this  parifli,  for  we  (hall  now  conGder 
them  both  as  one  parifh,  under  the  name  of  Twyneholm,  a- 
bound  in  rivulets  and  fprings.  There  are  two  lochs  or  lakes, 
the  one  upon  the  extremity  of  this  pariih,  and  dividing  it 
from  Girthon,  called  Loch-Whinniorf^  abounding  in  yellow 
trouts  ;  the  otiier  called  the  Lech  of  Trcftrie,  abounding  in 
pikes.  The  river  Dee^  (which  is  navigable  the  whole  way  it 
runs  along  this  pari(h,  and  upon  which  there  is  a  ferry  boat 
between  it  and  Kirkcudbright)  abounds  with  falmon,  grilfe, 
trouts,  fea-trout&y  and  hirlings ;  and  at  the  fouthern  extre- 
mity of  the  pariih,  there  are  fome  fmall  cod  and  whitings 
taken  by  lines-  The  water  of  Tarf^  (navigable  for  veffels  of 
50  tuns  burthen  up  to  its  lower  bridge,  upon  which,  in  this 
parifh,  there  are  a  flour,  a  barley,  and  a  corn  •  mill, )  Ka$ 
fome  falmon,  abounds  in  yellow  and  fca  trouts,  hirlings,  and 
pars,  a  fmall  red  fpotted  trout  never  found  bat  where  thei^ 
are  falmon.  The  burn  of  Tivymho/m,  which  divides  this  pa- 
rish in  the  middle,  and  which  drives  a  corn  and  a  barley  mill, 
abounds  in  all  the  fpecies  of  fi(h  found  in  the  water  of  Tarf, 
except  falmon.     Another  ftream  of  water,  which  runs  along 

almoft 

ba've  left  this  <orner.  The  flow,  Dcrvpns.  a^d  even  in  epidemical  pvtrid  fe- 
ver, freqcetitly,  during  the  above  period,  furrounded  thefe  parifrec,  aod  foxoc 
hekngiiig  to  them  were  brpught  home  from  Deighbouring  parilhes,  in  the 
wrofd  kind.  But  no  fever,  for  the  above  period,  has  either  fpread  of  become 
epidemical. 

^  By  am  is  always  me»flC  «v«r  in  tUs  coviitiy. 


78  Statifticat  Account 

almoft  the  whole  S.  W.  extremity  of  the  parifli,  abounds  irt 
trouts^  and  alfo  drives  a  barley  and  a  corn  mill,  llie  Lake 
of  Gkngape  abounds  in  large  yellow  trouts*  The  three  milla. 
abpve  mentioned  are  remarkably  well  fituated  for  exporting 
their  flower,  barley,  and  meal.  The  corn  mill  lies  clofe  upon 
the  fmali  bay  of  the  fea.  The  other  two  lie,  the  one  within  a 
Ihile,  and  the  other  within  half  a  mile  of  the  harbour  above 
mentioned,  upon  the  water  of  Tarf,  and  not  above  two'lniles 
irom  two  harbours  upon  the  water  of  Dee,  where  yeflels  of 
confiderable  burthen  can  eafily  come. 

Population  — As  the  feffion  records  have  never  been  regu- 
larly kept,  the  ancient  ftate  of  the  population  cannot  now 
be  afcertained.  The  variations,  however,  of  the  number  ot 
people  Within  jhefc  40  years,  will  appear  from  the  follow- 
ing ftatement.  A  late  aft  of  Parliament,  now  repealed,  pre- 
vented the  regiftration  of  births,  marriages  and  burial^  fo 
that  none  has  been  kept  for  fome  years. 

Statistical  t^ble  of  the  united  parishes  of  Twtne- 
ppLM  AND  Kirk-Christ. 

Ko.  of  fi>oU  IB  I755»  M  returned  to  Dr 

Webfter,             .             -             -  519 

Ditto  in  1763,               -               -  510    Dccr«afc  in  18  years      i| 

Ditto  in  1 79 1,                     -             -  61  r    Incrcafc  in  8  yean      loi 

Ditto  in  1794,               ^               -  6»o    Dittoinjycaw             9 

EzaA  increafe  within  thefe  40  years  loz 

Aces  and  Sexes,  &c.  -        Anno    1763  1791  1794 

Ko,  of  fouls  8  years  old  and  upwards,  408  493  *^0"^  50Q* 

Bitto  under  that  age,  -  about  *  101  iiS  iio* 

51O  61X  610 

•»»  Thcfc  numbers  are^atednpon  tbe  ufual  average.   All  the  reft  in  the  *- 
Wve  uble  were  uken  {rom  dilTcrent  accurate  enumerations. 


sfT'voyneholm  and  Kirk-Cbrift. 


n 


^nn»     17 


No.  of  males,  ... 

— —  Female*, 

I        Widowers, 
-I  Widows, 

<  Perfons  under  le  yean  of  age 

.^_  —  Betwoen  10  and  to 
■  —  ■  20  and  JO 

■■  ■  -  50  and  70 

•  70  and  80 

•  80  and  96 


n 


I70I 

1794 

»88 

3W 

*  s 

ao 

U9 

86 

- 

3Ci 

68 

- 

1% 

. 

% 

In  all    620 
Conditions,  Peofessions,  &c.  Country  and  Religion. 

No.  of  proprietors,  rcfidcnt,  8    No.  of  Pcrfops  born  in  Ireland,  a- 

7  bout  -  35 

—  ■  — —  in  the  Ifle  of  Man,  3 

44    .-P-—  Antiburgher  Seccderi,  ;  1 


— —  ditto  noo-refident, 

**•  farmers  and  cottagers,  and 

their  familiei , 
No.  of  cailore, 

—  weavers, 
— —  mafons 

■  joiners, 
—^  Smiths, 
— —  MiUer^, 
•«—  Shoe- makers, 
— .^  Miniders, 
— —  Surgeons, 
_  School  mafters, 
— ~— .  Scholars, 
_-  Poor  on  the  roU, 

—  HouTespoflefTed  by  families,  129 
......  Ditto  by  individuals,  lo 

.         Twins  born  in  the  parilhf ,     10 


•  Roman  Catholics, 
Rent,  Stock,  &c. 
Valued  rent  in  Scotch  money,  L.  279^ 
ftt)6o 

34i 

3300 

70 

4 


Real  ditto Sterling  }, 

No.  of  horfes, 

Black  cattle, 

-^ —  Milk- cows, 
— —  Sheep, 
— —  Goats,    • 

—  Ploughs, 
Carts, 

—  Ditto  in  1763  T, 
.^i..  Bu&els  of  oats  fold  annual- 
ly out  of  the  parifli,    xo,5i» 

^—  Ditto  of  barley,        -        X,2A0 
*— -  Ditto  of  potatoes,  x6o 

ManufoBiires 

t  Five  women  were  delivered  of  thefc  twins  within  the  courfc  of  two  yeara. 

I  In  this  eftimate,  the  grounds  pcffeffed  by  the  proprietors  are  cakulttod 
in  proportion  to  the  rents  at  which  the  others  arc  let. 

5  At  that  period,  though  marl  had  long  been  ufcd  as  a  manure,  it  was 
carried  xo  bags  on  the  backs  of  horfes* 


So  Statijiical  Account 

ManufaEhires  and  Fillagi, — Several  years  ago,  a  gentleman 
generally  cfteemed,  and  of  a  remarkable  mechanical  geniiM, 
under  the  patronage  of  Lord  Daer,  built  a  houfe  in  this 
parifli,  not  far  from  the  river  Dee,  for  diftilling  Britiih  fpi- 
rits.  An  alteration  in  the  diftiliery  laws,  and  other  circum* 
ilances,  occafioned  him  very  foon  to  drop  this  branch  of 
bufinefs  ;  upon  which  he  propcfcd  to  convert  the  houfe  in- 
to a  manufafluring  houfe  for  cotton  ;  but  the  ftagnation  of 
tliis  branch  of  bufinefs  put  an  immediate  ftop  to  that  under- 
taking aJfo.  It  is  now,  by  the  fame  gentleman,  joined  in  com* 
pany  with  others,  under  the  fame  patronage,  converted  in- 
to a  woollen  manufacture;  and  they  have  creeled  a  teafing, 
or  fcribling,  and  a  carding  machine,  which  arc  driven  by  a 
fmall  Arcam  of  water  ;  they  have  alfo  fcveral  hand  jeanies. 
Upon  account  of  fomc  improvements  made  in  tlic  machi- 
nery, they  have  greater  demantis  for  their  yarn,  than  others 
engaged  in  this  branch  of  bufinefs  :  and  if  the  war  now  raging, 
tlie  failure  of  credit  in  general,  the  fcarcity  of  money,  or  the 
increafing  value  of  that  article,  do  not  put  a  ftop  to  this  ma- 
nufaAure,  a  village  begun  nigh  the  abov&  building  will  ra* 
ptdly  iiicreafe,  and  increafe  not  only  the  population  of  this 
parifli,  but  that  of  Kiikcudbright  alfo.  There  are,  properly 
fpeakiog,  as  yet  no  villages  in  tliis  parllh  ;  for  a  few  houfes 
built  upon  the  military  road  below  the  church, ,  and  the  be- 
gun Village  above  menticned,  do  not  deferve  tbat  name. 

State  cfPropertyy  RentSy  ^c — ^More  than  die  one  half  of 
the  parifli  in  value,  though. not  in  extent,  belongs  to  the  Earl 
of  Selkirk.  His  Lordflilp's  rent?,  however,  amount  not  ta 
the  one  half  at  prefect.  Eight  of  the  proprietors^  ciihcr  farm 
the  whole,  or  a  part  of  their  own  lands.  Th«  average  rent 
of  the  arable  land,  except  tlwcc  farms  ia  the  N.  part>  rurw 

from 


o/Twyn&boIm  and  Kirk'CbriJl.  8i 

from  108.  to  il.  Sterling  per  acre.  There  aye  two  farms  let 
for  grazing,  without  the  liberty  of  plowing,  for  1 1.  is.  and 
il.  3s.  Sterling  per  acre.  Since  1763,  the  arable  land  yields 
^bove  four  times  the  rent  it  drew  then  :  And  one  farm,  be- 
longing to  the  Earl  of  Selkirk,  yields  14  times  the  rent  it 
paid  in  the  year  1 761 ;  yet  the  rents  are  better  paid>  and 
the  farmers  live  better,  than  they  did  at  that  period. 

Cultivation^  Inclofuresy  t^fc, — This  is  a  country  fully  bet-, 
ter  calculated  for  gracing  than  for  the  plough,  though  i^ 
produces  large  crops  when  properly  reftcd  and  manured. 
Hence  the  bed  farmers  have  conftantly  in  view  the  me- 
lioration of  their  grafs.  Though  fenfible  of  the  benefit  of 
inclofures,  and  even  willing  to  pay  ^j^d,  per  cent  per  annum 
of  the  money  laid  out  upon  them,  very  little  as  yet  is  effectu- 
ally done  in  that  way,  owi;ig  to  our  ftones  being  hurt  by  the  ac- 
tion of  the  fun  and  air,  which  makes  the  fences  foon  give  way  \ 
pur  ground,  interrupted  by  rocky  and  gravelly  knolls,  renders 
hedging  and  ditching  ineffedlual,  unlefs  a  degree  of  labour, 
care,  agd  attention  be  given  them,  which  the  farmer  has  nei- 
jtime  n6r  inclination  to  beftow.  The  want  of  wood  fcr 
-coping  expofes  the  young  thorns  to  the  ravages  of  cattle  ; 
and  a  polled  Galloway  cow,  if  once  ihe  can  thruft  in  her 
liofe,  with  (hut  eyes  will  force  her  way  through  a  ftrong 
hedge.  To  remedy  tliefc  defedis.  Lord  Selkirk  plants  hit 
liedges  in  a  (lone  facing,  and  builds  up  th^  (tones  for  coping 
and  fencing.  Oiie  thing  is  ftall  wanting ;  viz.  that  his  Lord- 
ihip  fhould  agree  with  a  gardener,  or  £kilful  workman,  to  keep 
lus  hedges  in  proper  order,  at  fo  much  per  rood,  the  tenants 
paying  ti^e  expence  along  with  the  rent  \  this  he  has  already 
done  with  refpe£i  to  clearing  his  eftate  of  moles. 

Vol.  Xy.  L  Mam^rts. 


8l  Statiftical  Account 

Manures. — ^Tl^e  manures  uCsd  arc  (hell  mari,  fca  (hells^ 
y^ater  lathing,  paring  ai|d  burning  the  furface,  and  dung. 
Shell  marl,  as  a  manure  in  this  part  of  Scotland,  was  iirft 
difcovered  and  ufed  in  this  parifh,  it  being  above  60  ye^ra 
fincc  it  was  applied  for  that  purpofc.  Of  all  manures,  when 
the  ground  is  gently  ufed,  and  not  worn  out  by  the  plough, 
it  remains  the  longel^  ;  its  efFeds  are  moft  confpicuous  upon 
the  grafs,  producing  the  different  clovers,  particularly  the 
white,  and  grafles  of  the  bed  quality  and  kinds ;  and  caufmg  a 

Seat  luxuriance  in  their  growth,  and  deepnefs  of  green  in 
eir  colour.  Ihe  quantity  laid  upon  an  acre  is  from  40  to 
fSo  cart  loads,  drawn  by  two  horfes.  There  is  ftill  a  large 
quantity  of  this  excellent  manure  in  the  parl(h,  particularly 
in  Lord  Selkirk's  grounds.  Sea  (hells  are  of  two  kinds  \' 
thofe  that  are  brought  in  by  every  tide,  into  the  fmall  bay  at 
the  S.  corner  of  the  parifli,  and  carted  off  at  the  ebb  5  and  a 
pretty  large  bank  running  along  the  fide  bay,  and  beneath  an 
arable  field,  called  dry  landjhells.  The  firft,  wet  with  a  con- 
fjderable  mixture  of  fand,  are  heavier  to  kad,  but  fpeedicr 
in  their  eiFe£l.  The  quantity  laid  upon  an  acre  of  each  is 
from  20  to  30  tons.  Lime  brought  from  England,  and  land* 
pd  at  the  fide  of  the  Dee,  or  the  TarfF,  cofts  the  farmer  is. 
Sterling,  the  Carlyfle  bufhel  of  fhells,  equal  to  three  Winchef- 
ter  bufhels.  From  30  to  70  bufhels  unflacked  are  laid  upon 
?in  acre.  Leading  a  ftrcam  of  water  over  the  furfacc  of  a 
ley  field  with  the  plough  or  the  fpade,  called  waUr-tathing^ 
prevailed  very  much  formerly  in  this  parifli,  before  the  life 
of  the  forementioned  manures  bec^nie  fo  general,  and  produ- 
ced exce-llent  grain  and  grais.  It  leaves  the  land  hard  bound, 
and  unfit  for  the  other  manures,  which  produce  Kttle  or 
po  effe£k  upon  water^tathed  land  \  and  it  cannot  be  repeated 
^vith  any  profit  but  at  a  confidcrablc  diftance  of  time,  except 

upon 


of  twynebohn  and  Kirk-Cbrijli  8^ 

tipon  meadow  and  grafs  grounds.  Paring  and  burning  li 
in  general  the  worft  huibandry,  except  upon  a  deep  moff/ 
fi>i]»  with  a  clay  bottom,  whai  fo  miick  of  the  mofs  is  burnt 
as  to  allow  the  plough  to  reach  the  clay,  and  mingle  it,  mofs 
mnd  aflies  together  \  then  it  produces  luxuriant  crops  of  grain 
and  grafs^  Dung,  the  principal  manure  in  farming,  is  tod 
little  attended  to  in  this  country :  .The  want  of  inclofuresf 
and  draw  yards,  moft  of  the  cattle  lying  oilt  in  winter,  are  all 
reafons  why  fo  little  attention  is  paid  to  this  valuable  article. 
What  is  colle£ted  is  genetally  expended  upon  our  third  crop 
ground,  in  producing  potatoes  and  a  few  turnips.  One  oC 
the  three  firft  arc  generally  laid  on  ley,  6t  ground  unbroken 
up  *,  and  if  laid  on  at  lead  one  year  before  it  is  plowed^  they 
gradually  (ink  into  the  ground,  mix  with  the  roots  of  thd 
grafs,  are  produ£tiYe  the  firft  year,  and  do  not  fd  fodn  fink 
out  of  the  reach  of  the  plough;  Sometimes  they  arc  laid 
4ipon  a  fallow,  and  the  author  hds  known  them  hdd  in  the 
month  of  May  upon  the  fpringing  corn. 

Ploughs^  Crops^  is^i. — Our  ploughs,  light,  drawn  by  twd 
horfcs,  or  three  when  old  ley  is  broken  up,  without  a  drfvcr^ 
are  moftly  of  the  Englifli  kind,  with  the  Scotch  head,  whicU 
is  found  to  anfwer  beft  in  ftony  grodnd.  Though  formerly 
the  ox  plough  generally  prcrailed,  yet  it  was  totally  liid  a- 
fide,  till  LoVd  Daer  revived  it,  by  ufing  both  oxen  and  heif- 
ers on  a  farm  whicli  he  is  improving  in  this  parifli.  One  of 
the  three  firft  kinds  of  manure  above  mentioned  being  laid  u- 
pon  the  ground,  it  is  fown  with  oats  the  firft  two  years.  The 
third  year  dung  being  laid  upon  the  field,  if  the  farmer  cart 
procure  this  article,  it  is  partly  planted  with  pi6tatdes^  and  fowrl 
with  turnips,  and  the  reft  of  the  field  either  fown  with  peafe 
and  beans,  or  left  fallow.    The  fourth  year,  it  is  fown  with 

1/  *  barkyi 


84  Statijlical  Account 

barley,  lyc  grafs,  rib'd  grafs,  and  the  different  dovers^  cut 
for  hay  one  year,  and  paftured  8,  then  again  broken  up  fof 
corn.  Wheat  feldom  turns  out  a  profitable  crop,  Qwing  to 
the  wetnefs  of  our  climate,  and  other  caufts* 

Experiments  tried  with  our  roiten-ftone  quanicsi  where 
the  three  firfl  kind  of  manures  are  not  to  be  obtained,  might 
have  a  happy  effe£l.  In  many  places  remote  from  thefe  arti- 
ficial manures,  mofs  and  turf  are  plenty.  Kilns  made  of  foda 
or  turf  might  be  ercfled,  and  the  half  dried  peats  burnt  to 
aflies,  at  no  great  expence,  which  are  well  known  to  be  an 
excellent  manure  for  turnips,  grafs  and  grain.  There  are  dif-» 
ferent  opinions,  with  rcfped  to  the  quantity,  to  be  laid  upon 
an  acre,  of  the  manures  of  the  firft  three  claflesf  mentioned  \ 
fome  thinking  a  fmaller  quantity,  frequently  repeated,  beft ;  o- 
thers,  a  large  quantity  laid  on  at  once,  and  not  repeated  for 
fome  cdnfiderable  length  of  time.  Tliis  depends  in  a  good 
meafure  upon  the  foil,  and  upon  the  manner  of  cropping  the 
land.  When  the  ground  is  treated,  as  above  mentioned,  and 
is  kept  fo  long  in  pafture,  the  large  quantities  are,  perhaps, 
beft,  as  having  the  moft  effect  upon  the  grafs  ;  and  as  it  is  by 
fermentation  thefe  manures  operate,  fuch  a  quantity,  as  will 
fully  promote  this,  will  be  found  neceffary,  while  a  fmal- 
ler quantity  will  only  produce  a  partial  fermentation  \  as 
beer,  not  having  a  fufficient  quantity  of  yeft,  is  always  mud* 
dy,  iluggifli  and  never  clears. 

Prices  of  Labour  and  Provifions.  A  farm  fervant  receives 
from  61.  to  9L  Sterling  yearly,  befides  lodging,  wafliing,  and 
food.  A  cottager's  benefit,  when  converted  into  money,  a-» 
mounts  to  about  1 5 1.  Sterling  yearly.  A  reaper  in  harvcft 
receives  from  1 7s.  to  iL  5s.  during  the  feafon.  A  woman 
fervant  from  al.  to  4I.  Sterling  yearly.    A  day-labourer'a 

wages 


ofTwynebolm  and  Kirk-^Cbrifi,  85 

wages  are  from  lod.  and  is.  in  winteri  to  is.  and  i8«  6d.  in 
fummer,  without  visuals  :  A  mafon's  and  joiner's  per  day, 
without  meat  is.  6d :  A  taylor's  8d.  with  viduals.  The  prices 
of  all  forts  of  provifions  frequently  vary,  and  depend  very 
much  upon  the  Whitehaven,  Liverpool,  and  Glafgow  mar-* 
kets,  to  which  we  have  ready  and  eafy  acccfe  by  fea. 

Horfis  and  Black  Cattle, — ^Thcre  are  a  good  number  of  hor- 
fes  bred  in  this  parifli,  both  for  ufc  and  fale.  They  arc 
moflly  of  tlie  draught  kind.  Tlie  old  breed  of  Galloways,  fo 
highly  valued  for  fplrit  and  fliape,  and  which  continued  a 
long  time  after  the  wreck  of  the  Spanifb  Armada,  when  feve* 
rai  ftallions  were  thrown  upon  this  coail,  is  almoft  entirely,  if 
not  totally  extizi£^.  The  price  of  our  horfes  is  from  icL  to  30L 
Sterling.  Our  cattle,  fo  highly  valued  by  the  Norfolk  farmers, 
are  for  the  mod  part  polled,  k>ng  haired,  ihort  and  thick  leg- 
ged for  their  height,  ftraight  backed,  round  bodied)  well  fpread 
«t  the  loins,  and  deep  dew-lapped«  Our  calves  fuck  their 
mothers  \  Aone  are  fold  to  the  butchers ;  the  males  are  cut 
young,  the  females  generally  about  one  year  old  \  and  when 
cut,  or  fpavedy  they  then  with  us  obtain  the  name  of  heifers. 
At  one  year  old,  they  will  bring  from  2I.  to  5L  Sterling ;  at 
two  they  will  bring  from  4I.  to  9I  \  at  three  from  61  to  loL 
The  beft  of  our  two-year-olds  are  almoft  always  fent  with 
Qur  three-year-olds  to  the  £ngli(h  market.  Our  farmers  can- 
not be  too  careful  to  pieferve  this  breed  \  for  any  trials  to 
meliorate  it  by  crojftng  with  other  bulls,  have  hitherto  failed. 
A  gentleman  in  this  country,  who  had  a  large  dairy,  remark- 
able for  rearing  the  beft  cattle,  and  who  kept  and  fed  them  till 
a  proper  age,  when  he  fent  them  with  other  cattle  which  he 
bought  from  bis  tenants,  to  the  Englifli  market,  to  try  an  ex* 

periqientj. 


86  Statijlical  Account 

perimcnt,  bought  one  of  Mr  BakeweU^s  bulb.  He  put  the 
half  of  his  cows  to  this,  and  the  other  half  to  a  Mooi;land 
bull,  bred  upon  his  own  eftate.  He  fed  the  produ£k  equal-^^ 
ly,  till  they  were  fent  to  market  at  Norfolk,  when  thofe  bred 
from  the  Galloway  buU,  brought  confidcrably  more  money 
than  the  others,  befidcs  being  eafier  to  feed. 

Sheep  and  Wool. — Our  Sheep  arc  of  five  kinds*  In  the  up- 
per part  of  this  parifh,  where  there  are  two  flieep  farms,  the 
flocks  are  of  two  different  kinds :  the  one,  a  fmall  fheep,  with 
flecked  or  fprittle  face  and  legs,  and  fine  wool.  This  breed 
has  been  from  time  immemorial  in  the  country.  The  other, 
black  faced  and  black  legged,  with  large  coarfe  wool,  brought 
lately  from  the  head  of  Nithfdale.  The  wool  of  the  firll  kind 
fells  at  from  8s.  to  ics.  per  ftone;  the  wool  of  the  other  at 
from  ^8.  to  6s.  In  the  lower  part  of  the  pari(h,  there  is  the 
long  legged  Engliih  Mug^  with  wool,  long,  fine>  and  fit  for 
combing ;  and  the  broad  fliort  legged,  fine,  ihort  wooHcd 
kind,  called  the  Culltj  breed.  There  is  a  fifth  breed,  of  the 
fmall,  white  faced,  (hort  fine  woolled  fpecics,  which  differ  in 
nothing  from  the  Cheviot  breed.  The  wool  of  thefe  diflerent 
kinds  fells  at  from  ns.  to  ids.  per  ftone  :  ^Slb.  Avoirdupois 
makes  our  ftone  of  wool.  Lord  Daer,  who,  in  many  in- 
ftances,  has  materially  contributed  to  the  advantage  of  this 
country,  has  introduced  a  breed  from  a  Spanifli  ram  in  hi* 
poflfeflion  ;  but  as  yet,  there  has  not  been  time  to  reap  the 
benefit  of  this  improvement. 

Woods  and  Plantations^ — ^The  old  timber  found  in  our  mof* 
fes  ftiows  plainly,  that  woods  had  formerly  abounded  in  this 
parilh,  though  they  are  now  entirely  gone,  except  the  above 
mentioned  wood  at  the  old  Caftle  of  Cumpfton.     lliere  are 

fomc 


of  Twyntboltn  and  Kirk-  Cbrift.  8  ^ 

ibme  other  fcnall  plantations,  in  difierent  parts.  But,  in  a 
few  years,  the  rifin^  grounds  along  the  Dee  &ie  oppo&te  to 
St.  Mary's  ifle  will  be  covered  with  wood.  Lord  Daer  having 
already  planted  with  different  kinds  of  trees  a  great  many 
acres  of  ground^  and  defigning  to  adorn  Lord  Selkirk'^  ex« 
tenfive  cftatc,  in  this  and  the  neighbouring  pariOies,  with  feat- 
tered  plantations.  Wood,  indeed,  unlefs  (heltered  from  the 
W.  or  S.  W.  winds,  does  not  thrive.  Northern  and  Eaft^rn 
expofures  are  the  beft  in  this  country,  for  planting  every 
kind  of  trees. 

FueU — ^Peats,  turfs,  and  furze,  or  whins,  were  the  general 
fuel  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  parifh  till  lately.  The  moiTes 
]h  the  lower  part  of  the  parilh  being  exhauded,  and  tlie  im- 
provement of  the  land  having  in  a  great  meafure  banifhed 
the  f  irze,  coals  from  Whitehaven,  the  duty  being  now  ta- 
ken of,  are  the  fuel  already  ufed  by  a  great  rwmber  of  the 
inhabitants  of  this  part  of  the  parifh.  The  Northern  part 
ftUl  make  ufe  of  peats  and  turfs,  as  the  nioffes  aboun<i  in  that 
quarter.  The  coals  are  fold  for  a  guinea /^r  toriy  as  it  is  cal- 
led, though  it  confifts  of  36  cwt. 

Churchy  School f  and  Poor. — The  church,  which  is  placed  ex- 
a£ily  in  the  center  of  the  parifh,  at  the  fide  of  the  military 
road,  where  three  other  roads  meet,  was  built  in  the  year 
1730,  and  the  manfe  in  1763.  The  ftipend  is  59 1. 17s.  6(?> 
all  paid  in  money.  The  glebe  confifts  of  near  30  acres, 
being  the  two  glebes  of  Kirk-Chrift  and  Twynehamc  joined 
together  at  the  churcli.  The  Earl  of  Selkirk  is  patron.— There 
is  an  eflablifhed  fchool  hard  by  the  church  ;  the  number  of 
fcholars  is  about  fixty.  If  once  a  houfe  was  built,  and  other 
funds,  provided  for  the  fchooKmafter^  were  fettled^  the  living 

wiU 


Sf  itatifiical  Account 

triB  be  worth  between  30 1.  and  40  1.  Sterling  yearly.— The 
poor  are  liberally  fupplied  by  the  weekly  coUeftions,  and  by 
ihc  private  charity  of  the  inhabitants,  who  are  oppreflcd  by 
Irifh  beggars  ai;id  dther  vagrants ;  owing  to  the  military  road, 
from  the  border  of  England,  to  Port-Patrick  pafEng  through 
tfie  midft  of  the  parifti.  There  is  no  funk  money  belonging 
to  it. 

Raads  oTid  Bridges. — In  the  year  !  763,  there  were  no  good 
loads  in  this  pariih  -,  a  little  after  that  period,  the  military 
road  from  the  border  of  England  to  Port-Patrick  was  made, 
which  paffes  through  the  midft  of  the  pariih,  and  has  contri- 
buted greatly  to  the  improvement  of  the  country.  After 
ihts,  a  road  was  made  to  Kirkcudbright,  by  the  bridge  of 
Tongland,  which  parts  from  the  military  road  at  the  church 
of  Twyneholm,  and  another  road  from  the  military  road  at 
the  Gatehoufe  of  Fleet  to  Kirkcudbright,  by  the  ferry  boat 
over  the  Dec,  which  paffes  through  this  parifh.  An  A£i  of 
Parliament  to  convert  the  ftatute  labour,  contributes  in  fomc 
meafure  to  keep  all  thefe  roads,  except  the  military  one,  in 
repair.  But  the  beft  diredled  roads  in  the  pariftiy  are  two 
from  the  church  of  Twynehame,  (the  one  to  the  ferry  boat 
of  Kirkcudbright,  and  the  other  to  the  bay  at  the  extremity 
of  the  pariQi);  and  a  third  from  the  ferry  along  the  fide  of 
the  Dee,  till  it  joins  the  latter  one  at  the  faid  bay  ;  opening 
sm  eafy  communication  from  Kirkcudbright  to  the  pariih  of 
Borgue,  and  a  fpacious  bay  called  Balmangan  Bay,  Thefe  laft 
mentioned  roads  were  planned  and  dire£led  by  Lord  Daer, 
and  executed  moflly  at  his  expence.  As  good  roads  are  the 
firft  and  moft  neceflary  improvement  in  any  country,  though 
much  hath  been  done,  yet  there  ftill  remains  much  to  do,  not 
only  in  this  pariih,  but  in  every  part  of  the  country  j  and  as 

thq 


of  Twjneholm  and  kirk-t/brisi.  9^ 

the  eonverfioii  monej  at  the  prcfent  rate  is  tcnally  inadequ«te> 
Tome  other  method  muft  be  adof^ted.  Upon  thefe  accountsi 
the  above  mentioned  noble  pdtton  propofed  a  bill  to  the 
county  for  their  approbation^  drawn  up  on  the  moft  liberal^ 
and  at  the  fame  time  the  moft  equal  plan.  Oppofition  was 
made  to  it  through  miftake,  through  prejudice,  and  through 
party,  and  a  clamour  raifed  agaiiift  it,  which  obliged  it  to  be 
dropt  for  the  prefent ;  but  till  fome  fuch  plan  is  adopted,  our 
roads  will  gb  to  ruin,  and  will  never  be  conducted  upon  si 
liberal  plan.  The  bridges  are  four ;  ontf  over  the  Tarf,  noa^ 
the  foot  of  that  river,  one  over  the  Kirk-bum  of  Twyntholm^ 
upon  the  military  road  nigh  the  churchy  aiid  two  others  over 
fmaller  ftreams. 

Antiquities^, — ^Therie  arc  the  remains  of  two  old  fauildingg 
in  this  parifh,  both  of  theni  belonging  to  the  Earl  of  Selkirk; 
The  one,  called  the  Cqftle  of  Cufnpfionty  is  placed  in  a  pleafant 
Gtuation,  nigh  io  the  jundion  of  the  rivers  Tarf  aiid  Dee,  fur* 
rounded  with  a  fmall  fpot  of  natural  wood,  the  only  one  in- 
deed in  the  parifh.  The  other  old  building  is  fituated  in  the 
farm  of  Nuntown,  oppoGte  to  St  Mary's  Ifle.    Thete  are  two 

Vol.  XV.  M  bmsi 


f  A  frcDtleman  who  lived  in  this  parifh,  and  pofleiTed  an  eflate  in  it,  anil 
who  died  fome  yeart  ago  upwards  of  So,  acquainted  the  writer,  that  ihthe 
ohi  burial  place  of  Twyneholm,  which  was  fitoai&l  about  a  ^n-fliot  from 
the  prefent,  nigh  one  bf  the  doons,  and  not  far  from  three  of  the  moat9^ 
(but  of  which  no  veftige  now  remains,  it  being  part  of  a  com  field,)  there  was 
tamed  up  by  labourers  employed  by  him  to  temove  part  of  an  old  fetKc,  a 
round  piece  of  gold  which  he  fuppofed  to  be  the  handle  of  a  coffin.  Thia 
piece  he  fcnt  to  Bdiaburgh,  and  received  for  it  only  three  guineas,  the  pexfod 
that  bought  it  alledging  that  it  was  not  gold;  but,  as  he  obferved^  if  it  ha4 
not  been  of  chat  toetal,  the  dealer  would  not  have  given  ib  mucb* 


90  Statijlical  Account 

Doom  X^  five  mbals,  and  a  hi]i  oppoCte  to  two  of  them,  caU 
led  the  Gallows- Hill ;  but,  as  the  figure,  ufe,  and  defign  of 
thefe  rcli£bs  of  antiquity  have  been  fo  often  explained  by 
others,  a  repetition  here  is  unneceflary. 

Propoftd  ImprovanenU^ — ^Thcre  is  a  creek  at  the  fide  of  tlie 
Dec,  very  nigh  the  manufa£^uring  houfe  formerly  mentioned, 
that  might  eafily  be  turned  into  a  good  harbour,  fheltered 
•  from  every  ftorm.  The  adjacent  field  is  commodious  for  wet 
and  dry  docks,  fuch  as  they  have  at  Liverpool ;  the  ftream 
of  water  that  drives  the  machinery  would  ferve  to  clean 
them ;  fpring  tides  30  feet  perpendicular  \  and  there  is  at  the 
fame  time  confiderably  more  than  17  f«et  of  water  upon  the 
barr  at  the  mouth  of  the  river.  A  great  road  opened  from 
the  kirk  of  Twyneholm  to  the  N.  N.  W.  through  an  open- 
ing in  the  hill  of  Glcngape,  would  give  accefs  to  manure 
landed  in  tlie  Tarf  or  the  Dee,  for  wild  and  barren  grounds* 

Di/advantages.'-^The  wetnefs  of  our  climate,  the  fcarcity 
of  fuel,  and  no  rock  fait  upon  our  coaft,  with  other  caufes, 
render  that  neceffary  article  at  times  fcarce  and  dear.  For 
thefe  two  years  paft,  the  fcarcity  of  this  article  has  been 
fo  great,  about  the  term  of  Martinmas,  as  materially  to  hurt 
the  fale  of  our  fat  cattle.  This  might  be  eafily  remedied  by 
albwing  rock  fait  to  be  imported,  or  fait  ready  made  from 
liverpool,  at  the  Scotch  duties.  One  of  thefe  meafares  ought  to 

be 

f  Some  time  ago,  there  was  raifcd  from  beneath  a  heap  of  ftones,  not  far 
.  from  that  fpot,  what  appeared  like  a  coffin  made  up  of  different  ftones,  in 
which  was  found  an  inftrument  refembling  a  hammer^  and  fome  coins ;  bu£ 
of  what  metal  the  inftroraent  was  made,  or  where  to  be  found,  or  of  what 
kind  the  coins  were,  no  Information  can  now  be  obtained.  There  have  been 
fefcral  coiot  found  sigh  to  thefe  moats,  bat  n«ne  of  them  are  prefer ved. 


ofTwyneholm  and  Kirk-Cbrist.  9! 

t>c  adopted,  or  fmuggling  will  become  general.  The  varie- 
ty of  weights  and  meafuresy  which  univerfally  prevails  both  in 
England  and  Scotland,  demands  the  attention  of  the  Lcgifla- 
ture.  In  London  ^  ftone  weight  of  feveral  commodities  is  16  libs 
-avoirdupoize ;  in  Liverpool,  or  Whitehaven,  the  fame  nominal 
quantity  of  the  fame  goods  is  only  14  lib.  ditto ;  in  Dumfries, 
or  in  that  part  of  this  county  that  lies  upon  the  other  fide 
of  the  river  Urr,  a  Scotch  ftone  of  any  commodity  is  24  libs ; 
in  New  Galloway,  which  is  in  the  fame  county,  it  i»  26lb,  and 
in  all  this  part  of  the  country  round  Kirkcudbright,  it  is  28 
libs,  ditto:  In  other  places,  only  22  libs,  make  the  ftone. 
Almoft  every  county  in  England  has  its  tu/helf  and  every 
county  in  Scotland  its  peckj  all  differing  one  from  another. 
The  Winchefter  bufhel  is  now  generally  ufcd  in  this  county, 
to  meafure  all  forts  of  grain ;  and  an  hundred  weight  of  pota- 
toes and  a  peck  are  the  fame. 

CharaBer  and  Manners. — ^The  people  in  general  are  chcar- 
ful,  fober,  induftrious,  and  humane ;  of  an  afpiring  and  in- 
dependent fpirit.  There  arc  not  at  prefent  above  four  men 
in  the  tlation  of  fervants,  that  were  born  and  educated  in 
this  parifti.  Seventeen  young  men,  if  not  more,  within 
thcfe  few  years,  have  gone  to  England,  America,  and  the 
Weft  Indies,  in  the  mercantile  line  j  three  to  the  fea ;  befides 
fisveral  faroilie&  that  emigrated  before  the  commencement  of 
the  American  war,  Since  the  year  1763,  there  is  a  vaft  dif- 
ference in  the  houfes,  drefs  and  manner  of  living.  There 
were  then  only  two  houfes  covered  with  flate ;  now  there  arc 
about  thirty.  Englifti  broad  cloth,  and  fancy  vcfts  of  cot- 
ton, are  the  drefs  of  the  men,  when  they  go  to  church  or 
market.  Silk  cloaks  and  bonnets,  printed  gowns,  and  cotton 
ftockings,  the  drefs  of  the  women.    In  the  year  1763,  there 

M  2  wcrp 


92  StatifHcal  Account 

wer^  otilf  three  fistinilies  in  which  tea  wa&oocafiqnaUy  drunls. 
Now  it  is  u&d  in  every  family*  In  1763,  at  Martio- 
tnas,  there  were  not  more  than  three  beeves  killed  in  the 
parifhy  our  remotenefs  from  public  market  making  it  neceC- 
fary  to  ialt  provifion^  for  winter ;  now  there  are  about  forty, 
.  befides  a  great  many  fwine,  a  pig  being  kept  and  fed  by  al- 
moft  every  houfeholder,  together  with  lamb  and  mutton  in 
fummer  and  harveft ;  butcher  meat,  of  one  kind  or  another, 
making  a  great  part  of  the  diet  of  the  farmers  and  their  fer- 
yams,  ^irhich,  perhaps,  is  cheaper  upon  the  whole,  than  the 
low  diet  upon  which  they  we:^c  formerly  fed. 


NUMBEi;. 


ofUrqubart^  53 

NUMBER   y. 
PARISH   ofURQ^UHART, 

(CoUMTT  AMD  PRESBTTERT  OF  ElGIN,  StNOD  OF  MoRAT.) 

By  the  Rev.  Mr  Wil&iam  Cordon,  Miniftfr. 

"  t  ■      ■  .1.   ^  <     .   .     ■       .  I      I  .1    .  .  ■  II  II 

Naniif  Extent^  and  Situation^  (SV, 


H&  etymology  of  the.  name  cannot  be  afcertained  Mrith 
precifioD.  If  it  be  of  Gaelic  e:ittni^oiH  fome  information 
may  be  received  from  thofe  quaxters  where  that  language  i$ 
underftood.  There  are  other  two  pariAes  of  the  fame  name, 
the  one  a  few  miles  from  Invernefis,  and  in  that  county  ;  the 
other  in  RoA-ihire.  This  pariih  extends  about  4  miles  from  K 
to  W.  and  3  from  N.  to  S  -,.  and  lies  at  an  equal  diftance  from 
Elgin  on  the  W.  and  the  river  Spey  on  the  £  *,  the  poft  road 
paffing  along  it  on  the  S. 

Surface^  Sea  Coa/l^  Futl^  tJ*^.— That  part  of  the  pariih 
which  lies  to  the  N.  W.  is  flat  and  low,  rifing  a  few  feet  on- 
ly above  the  level  of  the  fea>  and  has  probablyj  at  fome  for- 
•        '  mcr 


5^4  Statijiical  Account 

* 

iner  period  been  covered  by  water,  as  there  are  evident 
marks  of  the  fca  haying  receded  from  ^e  coaft :  The  reft 
is  a  good  deal  more  elevated,  and  of  an  unequal  waving  fur- 
face.  The  fea  coaft,  which  is  about  4  miles  in  extent,  is 
low  and  fandy ;  it  contains  no  creek  nor  landing  place  of 
any  kind.  Our  grain,  which  is  our  only  article  of  exporta- 
tion, is  (hipped  from  Speymouth  or  Lofsiemouth ;  and  our 
gireat  article  of  importation,  which  is  coals,  is  imported  at 
the  lame  harbours  •,  the  former  of  which  is  at  the  diftanc^  of 
4  miles,  and  the  other  of  6.  It  is  proper  here  to  mention, 
that  this,  as^well  as  feveral  other  neighbouring  pariflies,'  was 
fortiierly  ill  fi^pplied  with  feic} ;  but  how,  that  article  is  ren- 
dered much  lefs  cxpenGve,  by  taking  off  the  high  duty  on 
coak,  that  was  laid  on  with  little  attention  to  political  e- 
conomy,  and  which  has  lately  been  abolifhed  by  the  ex- 
ertions of  a  great  ftatefman  ;  to  whom  this  country  is  more 
obliged'  on  accpunt  of  that  meafu^e,  and  many  others,  thai^ 
to  any  other  native  of  this  part  of  the  united  kingdom. 

GHntaUy  55V. — ^The  air  is  dry  and  falubrious,  an^  the  pto^ 
pie  in  general  healthy ;  there  are,  however,  few  inftances  of 
remarkable  longevity  to  be  met  with.  The  climate  here,  like 
that  of  all  that  narrow  traft  of  land,  which  lies  along  the  fouth 
fide  of  tlic  Moray  Firth,  is  mild  and  temperate  to  an  extra- 
^yrdfinary  degree :  Its  fuperiority,  in  that  refpcft,  over  the 
high  country,  is  moft  remarkable  in  the  Spring  months.  Of- 
*ten  in  that  feafon,  while  all  the  operations  of  husbandry  arc 
going  forward  in  the  low  parts  of  Moray,  there  are  many 
places  in  the  high  country,  diftant  only  a  few  miles,  where 
ihcfe  operations  meet  with  a  total  interruption,  from  the  in- 

tenfeneft 


L 


©/'  Urqubart,  9| 

tenfencfs  of  the  frofts)  and  from  deep  falls  of  fnow.'*  Onr" 

winters  likewife,  ia  general,  are  fo  open,  that  feveral  plants 

connmonly  ranked  amongd   the    hot-houfe    divifion,  (land  | 

throughout  that  feafon  in  the  gardens  of  Innee,  expofed  to 

the  open  air,  and  lofe  little  of  their  verdure. 

Soil  and  Culti'uatkn^  &c.— The  foil  is  various,  and,  though  in 
general  light  and  fandy,  is  of  a  kindly  and  fertile  nature,  ex^ 
ceedingly  well  adapted  for  raifing  turnips,  potatoes,  barley,  and 
all  kinds  of  artificial  grafles.  And  a  conGderable  part  of  it 
would  be  extremely  fit  for  wheat,  if  there  were  any  opportuni- 
ty of  procuring  fufficient  quantities  of  manure.  Notwithftand* 
lug  the  mildnefs  of  tlie  climate,  and  the  kindlinefs  of  the  foil, 
agriculture  hasanade  but  flow  advances.  Some  patdies  of 
turnips  are  indeed  to  be  feen,  and  a  few  acres  are  fown  with 
grafs  feeds  \  but  the  fields  in  general  are  rather  in  a  ftat«  of 
bad  cultivation.  This  feems  to  be  occafioned,  in  a  great 
meafurc,  by  the  cxpence  and  difficulty  of  conftrufiing  fuf- 
ficient inclofures  *,  there  being  no  (lone  quarries  in  the  pa- 
ri(h,  nor  any  (lones  in  the  fields  fit  for  this  purpofe  ;  and 
thorn  hedges  are  fo  long  of  coming  to  perfedlion,  and  fo  dif- 
ficult to  be  fenced  when  they  are  young,  that  no  tenant,  on 
a  leafe  of  ordinary  endurance,  can  attempt  them  with  any 

profpeni 

*  It  may  llkewlfe  be  obferTcd,  as  a  farther  proof  of  the  excellencj  of  thi« 
tliinatc,  that  in  the  end  of  the  laft,  and  beginning  of  the  prefcnt  tentury, 
while  there  was  fo  great  a  deficiency  in  the  crops  to  many  parrs  of  Scot. 
land,  at  bordered  on  a  famiae,  owing  to  the  cold  and  wet  feajbns ;  in  Moraf, 
ft  that  period,  the  land  was  fo  produ&ive,  as  not  only  to  fopply  its  own  in* 
habitants,  bat  alfo  to  fpare  confiderable  quantities  of  grain  for  the  fubiift- 
cnee  of  their  neighbours.  And  it  is  a  fa<^  well  afccrtained,  that  in  thofc  yiears 
of  Scarcity  and  dearth,  people  came  from  the  fiiire  of  Angus,  to  purchjfe 
cat  meal  in  this  country,  for  which  they  p9id  at  the  rate  of  30  s.  /^r  buU. 


^6  Statijiical  Account 

proipeCl  of  fucccfs.  The  farms  aWb  are  of  too  fmall  extent 
for  carrying  on  any  fubftantial  improvements  fn  agrictzlture. 
There  are  a  few  that  may  contain  from  60  to  100  acres  ; 
but  the  common  run  is  from  20  to  30. 

Farm  Rents  and  Ploughs^  (s^c. — ^The  rent  of  Jand  varies 
according  to  the  nature  of  the  foil ;  there  are  fome  fields  let 
for  2os.  ^^r  acre,  while  others  are  below  los. ;  the  average 
rent  may  be  from  103.  to  1 58.  The  ploughs,  of  which  there 
are  above  ico,  fome  of  Englifh,  fome  of  Scotch  conftrudion, 
are  drawn  chiefly  by  a  parr  of  horfes.  In  this  branch  of 
farming,  an  improvement  has  been  introduced  about  20  years 
ago,  which  now  begins  to  be  pretty  generally  adopted  ;  that 
is,  plowing  with  two  oxen,  harneilcd  in  the  fame  manner  as 
horfes.  This  method  is  warmly  recommended,  and  the  ad* 
vantages  of  it  fully  exp^ined  by  the  late  Lord  Kaimes,  in  hia 
book  called  The  Gentkman  Farmer. 

Produce^  Exports^  iifc*  The  produce  of  this  pari(h>  con^ 
fids  principally  of  barley  and  oats  (  be&des  fupplying  the  in<« 
habitants^  it  exports  annually  a  confiderable  quantity  of  grain ) 
which  muft  incrcafe  yearly,  partly  by  the  increafing  improve* 
ments  of  agricalture,  but  chiefly  by  the  ufe  of  potatoes,  which 
are  now  almoft  univerfally  cultivated,  aild  during  a  great  part 
of  the  year,  are,  in  a  manner,  the  principal  fubfiflence  of  a 
confiderable  number  of  the  inhabitants.  This  food,  which 
at  firft  was  not  in  general  ufe,  becomes  more  and  mote  fo  e* 
very  day,  from  the  noious  modes  that  have  been  difcovered 
of  dreilmg  it,  by  different  feafonings,  at  little  or  no  expence. 
They  make  an  excellent  difti  with  milk,  but  above  all  with 
onions,  which  ^re  raifed  in  abundance  in  this  county,  and 
ibid  at  fuch  a  moderate  price,  as  to  come  within  the  reach 
of  the  pooreft  inhabitant. 

State 


of  Urqubart.  97 

State  of  Piropmy^  Plantat'tonsy  (sfc. — ^Four  fifths  of  this 
parifli  arc  the  property  of  the  Earl  of  Fife  *,  whofe  planta- 
tions arc  executed  with  uncommo:i  tafte  anri  judgement^ 
and  add  much  to  the  beauty  and  ornament  of  the  country. 
In  fome  places^  he  has  planted  moors  and  hills  of  great  ex- 
tent, but  what  niakes  the  moil  beautiful  appearance,  is  a  num- 
ber of  little  rifing  grounds,  all  of  which  he  has  covered  with 
fmgular  good  tafte,  and  fo  as  to  make  their  appearance  with 
relation  to  each  other  extremely  beautiful.  In  all  thefe  plan- 
tations, the  Scotch  fir  at  prefent  predominates ;  but  his  Lord- 
ihip  every  year  caufes  a  great  many  of  thefe  to  be  cut  down^ 
and  the  voids  to  be  filled  up  with  beech,  oak  and  other  de-« 
ciduous  trees  $.  Befides  thefe  plantations,  Lord  Fife  has 
planted  hedges,  and  hedge  rows  in  particular  places  along 
the  high  ways,  that  (hew  niuch  fancy,  and  will  afford  con- 
fiderable  utihty  and. warmth;  the  hedge  rows,  before  they 
were  planted,  were  pollards  of  a  confiderable  fize,  and  arc 
thriving  exceedingly  well.  A  fmall  plantation,  at  the  place 
where  the  road  to  the  houfe  of  Innes  leaves  the  liigh  road, 
two  miles  eaft^f  Elgin,  from  the  beauty  of  its  lines,  mult 
ftrikc  every  traveller,  and  the  hedge  rows  are  continued  3 
confiderable  length  along  the  high  road.  In  mentioning  the 
high  road,  it  is  but  juftice  ti^Lord  Fife  to  let  it  be  known^ 

Vol.  XV.  N  that 

*  About  26  years  agd,  his  Ltft'dfliip  purchafed  the  eQatc  of  lones;  aod. 
being  at  that  time  proprietor  of  ccnfiderable  cftates  in  the  adjacent  partflies ; 
the  cfta^e  of  Innes,  and  the  lands  of  Urquhart,  lately  acquired  by  dm  exchange 
tirith  the  family  of  Oordod,  he  became  poffcfTcd  of  fe  large  a  O'ad  of  proper- 
iy  all  contiguous^  and  compreheDdwg  a  great  variety  of  grotind,  Kbzc  be  hu 
been  enabled  to  execute  plaiitations  of  very  large  extent. 

$  Previous  to  the  year  177^,  at  whicA  pericfd  alradt  oae  Half  of  fhtfe 
plantations  were  formed,  there  were  always  planted  in  each  acre  3000  Scouk 
l^rs :  Sinre  that  tbne  the  pro|>ottion  baa  only  been  i3oo  t«  ttcb  ac/e, 


9 ft  Statijlicat  Account 

that  fince  he  became  proprietor  of  Inncs,  all  the  highways 
within  the  parifli  have  been  properly  attended  to,  judidottfty 
direfted,  and,  by  a  regular  application  of  the  ftatute  labour, 
kept  in  a  (late  of  good  repair  f .  The  only  other  heritor  is 
Mr  Innes  of  Lcuchars  J,  who  has  about  one  fifth  of  the 
real  rent  of  the  parifli.  He  is  at  uncommon  .pains  to  raifc 
and  fence  hedges  j  he  has  planted  ftripes  and  belts  about  the 
ground  round  his  houfe  to  a  very  confiderable  extent,  befides 
feveral  clumps  fimilar  to  tho<p  executed  by  Lord  Fife.  Thcfe 
cTumps,  like  his  Xxyrdlhip's,  at  ptefent  confift  chiefly  of  Scotch 
firs ;  but  the  plantations  around  his  farm,  and  about  his  houfe, 
afe  all  deciduous  trees  of  the  beft  kinds  -,  oak,  a(h,  and  witch 
elm,  with  a  proper  mixture  of  larix,  which  arc  all  uncom* 
monly  well  preferved,  befides  being  kept  under  the  hoe  for 
feveral  years  after  they  are  planted.  The  water  of  Lofly  runs 
through  the  property  of  this  gentleman ;  that  river  fwells 
fomctimes  to  a  great  height,  and  frequently  flooded  the  low 
ground  on  each  fide ;  but  of  late,  with  great  induftry  and 
merit,  embankments  have  been  conftni£kcd,  that  will  contain 
the  river,  and  in  a  great  meafure  prevent  future  inundations : 
By  diis  eircumftance  the  value  of  his  lands  is  conliderabiy 
raifed. 

f  The  hoiifc  of  Innca,  one  of  Lord  Fife's  numerous  feats,  had  been  many 
year*  ago  ]^artly  defiroycd  by  aecideDtal  fire.  Since  his  Lordfliip  became  its 
poCcflbr,  it  has  been  repaired  at  a  very  confiderable  expence,  and  fitted  up 
in  the  Mk>ft  fa&tonable  iHle ;  a  larg;c  addition  haa  beea  made  to  the  gardens, 
and  the  groiiDd»  about  the  ho^iS^  hssTc  been  laid  .out  in  the  beft  tafte ;  the 
Whole  nuJMt  now  one  of  the  moil  pkafanc  and  elegant  pkxes  of  refideocc  in 
the  North. 

I  Befotte  Mr  In  wit  fnceecded  to  this  eftate,  it  had  been  in  the  pofliefGoa 
^»|ReDdeinan  mho  paid  very  Uttk  attention  to  improvements  of  aay  kind. 
Since  the  prie&ot  gcotSemaA  became  pcoprictor,  it  hai  vndevgone  a  very 
great  akeratioB  to  the  better. 


^' 


of  Urquhart.  99 

Lakes,  Ft/by  Wattr  Fcwlx,  i^c. — There  is  one  lake  in  this 
pariih  called  the  Lech  of  Cctis,  Pike  is  the  only  fifh  it  con- 
tains :  In  winter  it  is  frequented  hj  a  confiderable  number 
of  fwanS)  and,  in  the  fpring  and  autumn,*  by  flocks  of  geefe, 
ducks,  and  other  water  fowls.  At  the  upper  part  of  the 
parifh,  there  is  another  lake  called  Locbnabeau^  partly  in  tlits 
pariflii  and  partly  in  Lhanbryd.  Lochn^beau  is  in  the  middle 
of  what  was  formerly  an  extenfive  bare  moor ;  about  ao  years 
ago  Lord  Fife  planted  the  moor,  and  particularly  carried  his 
plantations  round  the  verge  of  the  lake.  Thefc  plantations 
are  now  far  advanced,  and  by  their  vicinity  to  the  water, 
which  is  uncommonly  limpid  and  clear,  form  a  moft  beauti« 
ful  and  delightful  fcene. 

Stags. — ^This  improvement,  however,  has  been  attended 
with  one  inconvenience.  In  fome  fevere  winters,  feveral 
years  ago,  a  few  ftags  and  hinds  came  down  to  the  low  coun- 
try from  the  Duke  of  Gordon's  forefts  of  Glenfiddich  and 
Glenavon  ;  of  late  years  they  have  taken  up  their  refidence  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  Lochnabeau,  and  the  plantations  a* 
round  it,  and  are  become  fo  fond  of  their  new  habitation, 
that  they  have  never  returned  to  their  native  forefts ;  on  tlic 
contrary,  they  increafe  every  year,  by  breeding,  and  by  the 
addition  of  frcfli  emigrants.  Thcfe  animals  make  a  very 
fine  appearance,  and  afford  much  pleafure  and  amufement 
to  the  fportfman  5  it  is  therefore  to  be  regretted  that  they  are 
fo  hurtful  to  plantations  and  agriculture.  Throughout  the 
fummer,  they  pafture  in  the  night  time  on  the  corns  ;  in  the 
winter  on  turnips  ;  and  in  the  fpring,  as  the  winter  crops  of 
rye  and  wheat  are  then  fartheft  advanced,  they  are  particular- 
ly deftruAive  to  them  ;  but  the  ftems  of  potatoes  feem  to  be 
their  favourite  food,  as  they  are  known  to  pafs  through  ficldlB 
of  corn  in  order  to  broufe  on  them.  Upon  the  whole,  it  were 
N  2  much 


J  CO  Statijlical  Account 

much  to  be  wiflicd,  tTiat  they  were  cither  driven  back  to  their 
antient  habitation,  or  utterly  exterminated.  The  laft  mtZr 
fare  has  been  fuccefefuUy  followed  by  ^  worthy  nobleman  in 
the  wcftcrn  part  of  this  county,  celebrated  for  his  extenfivc 
and  flourifhing  plantations,  who  kept  hounds  for  the  fole 
purpofe  of  extirpating  thofe  dcftruftive  animals.  I  need 
hardly  fay  that  the  nobleman  I  mean  is  the  Earl  of  Moray. 
If  thefe  plantations  have  attrafted  the  deer  to  this  corner,  it 
has  been  remarked  that  they  have  not  been  favourable  to 
the  increafe  of  hares  and  patridges  ;  tliis  may  be  owing  to 
the  protcftion  which  they  afFord  to  beafls  and  birds  of  prey. 
Were  gentleman  to  give  fmall  premiums  for  the  deilru£tion 
of  thefe  vermin,  it  would  prove  more  efiefiual  jn  prcferving 
the  game  and  increafing  its  numbers,  than  all  the  game  laws 
that  ever  Mfcre,  or  eyer  will  be  enaclcd. 

Churchy  Scfyooly  and  P<?:r.— The  prcfent  incumbei^t,  who  14; 
a  bachelor,  had  hi3  prefentation  from  the  Duke  of  Gordon  ; 
but  the  patronage  of  the  church  has  fipce  been  conveyed 
to  the  Earl  of  Fife,  at  the  time  that  the  exchange  of  lands 
fook  place  between  his  Lordfliip  and  the  family  qf  Gordon. 
The  ftipend,  by  a  decree  obtained  February  1793%  is  8  chal- 
dcrs  virtual  and  40I.  Sterling,  including  5I.  for  communion 
element^.  The  glebe  confifts  of  5  Scotch  acres.  Som<* 
years  ago,  the  minifter  entered  into  a  contraft  with  the  heri- 
tors, for  keeping  the  manfe  ?nd  ofpces  in  repair  during  his 
incumbency,  for  \yhich  he  receives  ^n  annuity  of  (5I.  Ster- 
ling, befides  30I.  paid  per  advance.  The  church  >vas  com- 
pletely repaired  about  1 8  years  ago. — A  new  fchool-houfe 
was  then  built ;  the  fchool-maftcr's  falary  is  1 2  boils  of  ont 
meal,  and  6  bolls  of  barley. — The  average  number  of  poor  in 
this  parifli  is  about  20.  The  funds  for  their  fupport  arif^ 
JFrgoi  the  weekly  colleftions  at  church,  which  amount  to  loU 

yearly 


of  UrquharU  loi 

yearly,  together  with  fome  mortifications  that  produce  al. 
I  IS.  4d.  of  annual  intereft. 

Population. — ^The  number  of  inhabitants  has  decreafed 
within  thcfe  40  years,  as  appears  from  the  following  ftate- 
ment : 

Statistical  Table  of  the  parish  of  Urqxjhart. 

No.  of  TouIb  in  I  ;5i,u  returned  to  DrWebiler,  >  liio 

Pitto,  in  1793,  males  506,  females  544,  •*  «  1050 


Decreaie       60 

Annual  avenge  of  baptifms. 

30 

Conditions,  PtQVKwiONs,  ^c. 

Diflentersf  from  the  EOabliflied 

Proprietors, 

% 

Church,           -            -            flo 

Miniftcr, 

I 

Live  Stock,  Rsnts,  &c 

School-mafter, 

I 

Horfes,             -              -             310 

Gardeners, 

6 

Black  Cattle,                »•               900 

Smiths, 

3 

Sheep,  §                     -                  1570 

Tailors, 

5 

Valued  rent  in  Scotch  me* 

Joiners, 

6 

•ney,          -         L.  S5^7  :  15  5  6 

Mafona,            -             '      - 

6 

Real  ditto  in  Sterling, 

Weavers, 

6 

about                     1800  :    0  :  0 

Shoemakers, 

3 

No.  of  acres,  planted  by  the  ^arl 

MiUers, 

5 

of  Fife,           -            2478 

Ale  and  fpirit'dealers, 

8 

Manner  of  Living, — ^Though  the  progrcfs  of  agriculture 
has  not  been  fo  rapid  as  might  be  wilhed,  the  increafing  com- 
fort of  the  people  is  ycry  obfervable.   Within  thefe  20  years, 

a  great 

f  Thcfe  confift  chiefly  of  Seceders,  of  the  Antiburgher  perfuafion. 

f  Since  the  moors  were  planted,  the  number  of  the  (beep  has  confider- 
ably  decreafed,  there  having  been  formerly  in  the  parilh  more  than  double 
fhe  above  number.  The  farmers  are  every  daybecoming  more  reconciled  to 
the  want  of  thefe  animals,  which  cannot  be  kept  with  any  advantage  in  an 
improving  country,  without  fufficient  inclofores. 


201  Siatyiical  Account 

t  gf^  iiifferenee  ^o  tlie  better  maf  be  nemark£<}  in  their 
clothing,  their  cleanliners^  and  every  otbcr  drcuinftance  that 
tends  to  make  life  more  agreeable.  Their  habitations  have 
likewife  been  verf  much  improved  \  witliin  lefs  than  the  pe- 
riod above  mentionedt  there  have  been  upwards  of  50  neat 
farm  houfes  built  in  thia  parifli,  either  by  the  landlord  or  the 
tenant. 

Charafter. — ^Though  the  number  of  ale-houfes,  mentioned 
in  the  table,  may,  at  firfl:  appearance,  feem  to  bear  hard  upon 
the  fobriety  of  the  people,  it  is  to  be  remarked,  that  only  two 
of  thefe  houfes  retail  any  conGderable  quantity  of  ale  or  whii** 
ky.  The  people  in  general  are  very  fober,  and  diligent  in  their 
fcveral  occupations ;  their  efforts  of  induftry  being  as  well 
diredied  as  theit  fituation  ai^d  circumflances  will  permit* 

^ntiquittes. — The  fite  of  th^  old  priory  f  has  lately  been 
converted  into  an  arable  field  ;  and  the  name  of  Abbey-nveU^ 
which  the  country  people  ftill  give  to  the  fountain  that  fup- 
plied  the  Monks  witli  water,  is  the  only  memorial  of  it  that 
now  remains, 

Propofed 

^  In  \ht  ixch  century,  the  whole  of  this  parifli  was  King's  property.  As 
early  as  the  year  1125,  a  priory,  depen^eot  on  the  Ahbey  of  Dunfermline, 
was  credcd  at  Urqaliart.  It  w&s  very  liberally  endowed ;  all  the  lands  now 
called  ihc  Lordftiip  of  UrquharC,  the  lands  of  Fochabers,  as  well  a»  feveral  o- 
flicrs  in  tliis  county,  together  with  a  part  of  the  fifhing  on  Spey,  appertained 
to  it.  h  anpcars  that  about  the  year  1345,  this  cell,  as  well  as  that  of  Pluf- 
cardene  fell  into  difordcr ;  and  the  Roman  Pontiff  having  commiifioned  the 
bifliops  of  Scotland,  to  enquire  into  thofc  irregularities,  it  was  foon  after  fepa- 
»atcd  from  Dunfermline,  and  conjoined  to  Plufcardene,  with  which  it  coctinu. 
ed  united  till  the  Reformation.  At  and  before  that  period,  the  priors  began 
to  feu  out  the  lar.ds,  refcnin;;  only  in  their  own  pofTcifion  the  manor  places 
and  mills;  the  revenue  which  by  that  method  they  drew  from  thence,  if  wc 
take  tnt*  the  acccunt  the  teinds,  ruulturc«,  and  fcrriccs,  would  even  at  this 

day 


^  UrqubarU  i©i 

Pr$prfed  Bridge, — ^This  account  ou^t  not  to  be  condud-' 
cd,  without  mentioning  the  fatisfaftion  entertained  in  thiapa-, 
rifli,  and  the  reft  of  the  country,  at  the  late  ptofpeft  there 
-^vas  of  a  Brfdge  acrofo  the  Spey.  At  prcfetit  the  ferry  is 
extremely  troublcfortie,  attended  with  fomef  danger^  and  ncf. 
ceffarily  very  cxpenfive  to  travellers.  If  there  were  a  bridge 
thrown  acrofs  that  river,  the  commerce  and  intercourfe  of  the 
country  would  be  very  much  increafed  5  travelling  would  be 
tendered  much  more  eafy  and  comfortable  ;  and,  above  all, 
it  would  be  fingularly  ufeful  for  the  jnarch  of  the  King's 
troops  5  this,  in  the  winter,  being  the  only  road  by  which 
they  can  pafs  either  South  or  North.  For  thefc  reafons  it  is 
univerfally  hoped,  that  meafures  for  a  bridge  acrofs  the  Spey* 
which  have  been  begun,  and  generoufly  promoted,  by  a  moft 
lUuftrious  family  \  in  the  neighbourhood,  will  be  taken  up 
by  government,  and  aided  by  the  fuhfcription  of  every  per- 

fon 

^ay  be  nearly  adequate  to  a  moderate  rent.  The  priory  was  fituated  a  little 
Co  the  eaft  of  the  prcfent  church,  in  the  midft  of  a  morafs^and  probably  went 
to  ruin  foon  aftei  its  union  whh  Plufcardene.  In  the  year  1654,  the  greater 
part  of  the  materials  were  carried  off  to  build  a  granary  near  the  (hore  at 
Gannouth ;  the  remainder,  foon  after  that  period^  was  employed  in  repairing 
the  maofe,  and  inclofing  the  church-yard. 

In  the  year  1x60,  the  Morawenfet^  or  inhabitants  of  Moray,  (for  wliat 
caufe  is  not  now  known)  took  up  arms ;  they  were  met  in  the  moors 
of  Urquhart  by  the  King's  aimy,  which  was  fent  to  quell  the  infurredlioi% 
and,  as  we  learn  from  fome  of  our  hiftorians,  were,  after  aa  obilinate  ro 
fiftance,  defeated  there  with  great  daughter.  As  the  inhabitants  of  Moray 
were  at  that  period,  according  to  Buchannan,  of  a  refUefs  and  turbulent  dif- 
poiition,  aU  the  families  engaged  in  thik  rcbeUion  were  difperfed  through 
the  different  provinces  of  Scotland.  It  is  laid  that  thofe  who  were  then  re- 
moved into  the  Northern  Counties,  received  the  name  of  Sut  me  eland,  which 
their  defcendents  dill  retain,  and  that  thofc  who  were  fent  to  the  South, 
allomed  the  firname  of  MueAat,  which  they  likewife  have  tranfmitted  t« 
their  pofterity. 

\  The  family  of  GoEOOW. 


104  Statijlkal  Account 

fon  who  wlflies  well  to  his  country.  A  great  part  of 
the  faid  road,  from  that  to  Elgin,  will,  in  a  fhort  time,  be 
bounded  with  wood  on  each  fide.  The  large  plantations 
of  his  Grace  the  Duke  of  Qordon  begin  where  Lord  Fife's 
end,  and  are  likely  to  be  continued  Eaft-ward  to  the  river 
fide. 


NUMBER 


.  ofOyne.  105 

NUMBER  VL 
PARISH   OF   OYNE. 


(County  and  Synod  of  Aberdeen,  Presbytery  of  Ga- 

RIDCH.) 


By  the  R€v.Mk  ALEXANDEft  Cusuny,  Minifter. 


Name^  Formy  Extent,  Rivers,  and  F'tjb. 


T. 


HE  origin  of  the  ngme  of  this  parifti  is  unknown.  It 
IS  commonly  pronounced  Em.  Its  extent  varies  from  3 
to  4  miles  in  breadth  and  lengtli,  and  its  form  is  vCry  irregu- 
lar. The  river  Don  divides  it  from  Monymulk  on  the  South. 
The  rivers  Ur^  and  Stewck  bound  it  on  tlie  North  and 
N.  £.  And  the  fmall  river  GaJy  runs  into  the  Ury  at  the 
Eaftern  extremity  of  the  parifli.  The  Ury  and  the  Gady 
produce  eels  and  trouts,  but  there  are  no  falmon  found  in 
thefe  fxpall  rivers^  except  in  (he  fpawning  feafon^ 

Soil,  Cultivation  and  Roads.-'The  foil  pf  the  greater  part  of  this 
parifli  is,  in  general,  extremely  fertile.  The  lands  near  the 
church  are  very  rich  and  early  ;  the  harvefl:  comrponly  be- 
gins eight  days  fooner  here  than  in  any  of  the  neighbouring 
parifhes.  A  imall  part  of  the  paii(h  lies  South  of  the  high 
Vql.  XV.  P  mountain 


io6  Statijlical  Account 

niountain  of  Bcnochie,  and  the  lands  there  are.ncitKer  fq 
early  nor  fo  fruitful  as  thofe  on  the  North  fide.  The  new 
plan  of  farming  is  gaining  ground  herci  but  very  flowly,  and 
is  far  from  being  general.  This  perhaps  is  owing  in  fomc 
meafure  to  the  farmers  being  attached  to  the  old  hufbandry, 
but  more  to  their  being  at  a  great  diftance  ffom  the  means 
of  improvement,  and  to  the  roads  being  exceedingly  bad. 

Propofei  Canals. — A.  canal  from  Aberdeen  to  Invernry  d- 
long  the  fouth  fide  of  the  Don,  and  another  from  Inverury 
to  Old  Rayne,  is  at  prefent  projefted.  If  thefe  public  fpirited 
enterprifes  fucceed,  they  will  be  of  very  great  importance  to 
the  diftrift  of  Garioch,  whatever  profit*  the  firft  fupporters 
of  the  fchemc  may  derive  from  the  undertaking.  Before 
lime  and  marie  wefe  ufed  in  agriculture,' the  lands  in  this' 
pariih,  and  in  the  whole  diftri£b,  were  confidered  as  the  beft 
lands  in  the  county,  and  the  Garioch  was  commonly  called 
the  Granary  of  Aberdeen.  But  of  late  years  the  parifhes  on 
|hc  fca  coaft,  which  were  not  naturally  fo  fertile,  have  been 
more  improved  j  and  this  diftrift,  for  which  nature  had  done 
To  much,  has  received  but  little  airjftancc  from  art.  But  if 
the  canr.h  take  jlacc,  it  is  probabje,  that  the  diftrift  of  the 
Garioch  will  become  one  of  the  moft  fertile  and  mcft  valu- 
able diftrifts  in  Scotland. 

OhflruBlons  io  Improviment. — The  farmers  are  in  general 
not  opulent.  The  leafcs  are  too  ftiort :  And  very  high  wf//- 
tures  at  the  mills  are  a  great  bar  to  agriculture,  in  this  and  fe- 
yeral  other  neighbouring  parilhes.  In  this  parifli  the  eleventh 
peck  of  corns  ground  at  the  mill  is  fometimes  paid.;  and  com- 
monly the  thirteenth  peck  is  paid  for  multures  and  fervices. 
One  of  the  heritors  in  this  parifii  propofes  to  take  off  the 

multures 


ofbynei  ibj 

miillurcs,  arid  it  is  hoped  he  will  be*  imitated  by  the  other 
J)roprietors  in  the  ncighbouthood. 

Climate  and  D'lfeafcs. — ^The  air,  in  general,  is  pure  and 
very  healthy,  and  few  epidemical  difeafcs  prevail.  The 
rheuniatifm  is  the  mod  common  diforder,  which,  in  tlii$, 
diflrift,  is  felt  more  by  people  of  better  ftationj  than  by  the 
poorer  fort  of  people. 

Forejl  and  Fruit  5rr/^x.-«— There  is  a,  great  number  dflarge 
afti,  plane,  beech,  birch,  elm,  oak,  pine,  fir,  walnut  and 
-chefnut  trees,  all  above  60  years  old,  near  the  houfe  of  Weft- 
hall.  There  is  likewife  a  very  great  number  of  apple,  pear^ 
cherry,  geen  and  plumb  trees>  which,  though  much  neglec*** 
ted  for  thefe  40  yearst  commonly  bear  fruit.  There  arc 
fome  very  large  old  Scotch  firs  near  the  houfe,  *  and,  half  a 
mile  diftance  from  it,  there  are  two  thriving  plantations  of 
young  Scotch  firs.       # 

There^is  likewife  a  large  plantation  of  Scotch  firs  on  that 
part  of  the  eftate  of  Pittodry,  ^ich  lies  in  this  parifli.  At 
Tillyfour  there  is  a  confiderable  number  of  fruit  and  other 
kinds  of  trees,  befides  two  large  plantations  5  the  one  of 
Scotch  firs,  and  the  other  of  hazel.  It  is  a  moft  beautiful  ro- 
mantic pldce>  and  a  very  pleafant  fummer  feat. 

Population* 

^  Mr  JotxN  HoRM,  AdVociite,  about  90  years  ago,  betotiSed this  pUc^ 
Very  much  with  feveral  planta^ons  of  firs,  which  throve  fo  well,  that  it  \i 
f>id  he  himfclf  was  buxied  in  a  doffin,  made  out  of  a  fir  tree  of  his  ownplan-^ 
ting.  He  likewife  made  out  t  fine  avenue  -  from  the  entry  of  l\is  houfe, 
which  at  lafl  afcends  a  pretty  little  gfeen  hil>,  on  the  top  bf  which  he  built  a 
imall  lod^e,  of  two  rooms,  and  called  it  Painaasds.  He  ornamented  his 
feat  with  a  great  number  ofpleafure  walks,  with  fiaises  in  them>  which 
ihow  a  great  deal  of  tallc,  conildering  hotv  long  it  is  fince  thefc  walks  wtre 
laid  out. 


io8  Statijlical  Account 

Population, — ^Thc^poptolatbn,  at  prefent,  is  nearly  the  fame 
that  it  was  40  years  ago.  The  number  of  the  males  and  fe- 
males is  almofl:  equal. 

Statistical  table  of  the  parish  of  Oyne  J. 

No.  of  fouls  in  1755,  as  returned  to  Dr  Webftcr,  -  -  640 

Ditto  in  1 79 J,  •  •  -  ^30, 

Decreafe      10 

C^MsiTiONs  and  Profcssiovb,  &e;  Stock,  Rknts,  &c. 

No.  of  Black  cattle,  -  600 

—  Horfc«,  -  I  JO 

— —  Sheep,  -  xcoo 

Carta,  -  50 

— —  Ploughs,  -  a6 

— —  Com  mills^  -  5 

Valued  rent,  Scotch  L.  2300'  10  4 
Real  ditto,  Sterling,  about  1000  o-  o 
Rent  of  I  farm  per  annum,  80  o  o 
Ditto  of  another,  4a    o    o 

Ditto  of  5  or  6  others,  '      34    o    o 
Ditto  of  the  reft,  from  4I.  to  34    o    o 
Average  rent  of  in-ficld 
ground  per  acre,  from 
tS*.  to  >  zoo 

Ditto  of  out-field,  51.  to        0100 

ManufdRures. — ^Moft  of  the  women  in  this  di  drift  are 
employed  in  knitting  (lockings,  and  very  few  in  fpinning  at 

the 

\  The  principal  enumerations  and  calculations  in  this  tabic  were  made  up 
at  Whitfunday  1793. 

*  None  of  thefe  gentlemcD  refidc  in  the  parifli.  About  80  years  ifo^ 
ihtrc  were  11  proprietors. 


No.  of  Proprietors  *, 

3 

I 

I 

—  Scholars  in  furamer,  about 

flO 

—  Ditto  in  winter, 

30 

14 

Church, 

6z6 

Wrights, 

5 

— -*  Weavers, 

3 

Wheel-wrights, 

% 

m^^  Tailors, 

I 

— —  Smiths, 

4 

•-^  Merchants, 

% 

I 

-1       Shoe-makers, 

5 

of  Oyne.  lo^ 

the  lint  wheel.  The  (locking  manirfaQure  brings  in  from 
300I .  to  400 1.  a  year,  according  to  the  price  of  ftockinge, 
which  varies. 

FueL — ^The  fuel  is  peats  and  turfs  from  Benochie. — ^Thcrc 
are  4  or  5  parifhcs  vhich  get  their  fuel  from  this  high  moun- 
tain. Men  and  horfes  are  employed  at  lead  a  months  in 
fummcr  in  providing  this  fuel.  It  is  wifhed  the  canal  may  take 
place,  and  then  all  thefc  inconveniences  will  be  obviated. 

Churchy  Schofi,  and  P^r.— The  ftipend  was  formerly  3 
chalders  of  meal,  i  of  bear,  and  32  1.  15s.  in  money.  An  aug- 
mentation was  obtained  two  months  ago,  (March  1794:) 
The  manfe  was  built  in  1717  ;  but  there  is  no  record  of  the 
time  when  the  ciiurch  was  built.  Both  are  nearly  m  a  ruinous 
ftatc-  Colonel  Knight  of  Pittodry  is  patron.— There  is  only 
one  fchool  in  the  pariflu  The  fchool-mafter's  falary  is  11  L 
2S.  6 ;  but  he  has  neither  houfe  nor  garden  belonging  to  the 
office. — ^There  are  atprefent  on  the  poor*$  roll  9  families,  who 
get  regular,  but  fcanty  fupplies.  There  are  no  funds  but  20  L 
Sterling  *,  the  intered  of  this  fum,  and  the  coUedions  in  the 
church,  throughout  the  year,  will  not  exceed  7  1.  io  s. 

CharaHer  and  Antiquities. — ^The  people,  in  general,  are  re-? 
gular  and  induilrious,  and  moflly  employed  in  farming. 
There  is  not  one  ale-houfe  in  the  parifli. — The  only  antiqui- 
ties in  this  diftrifl  are  two  Druidical  temples. 


KUxMBER 


1  lO  Statijlical  Account 


NUMBER    VII. 


PARISH   OF   RAYNE, 


(County  and  Synod  of  Aberdeen,  PRBSBYTERy  oi^ 
Ga&xoch.) 


By  the  Rev  Mr  Patrick  Davidson^  Minisien 


Situation^  Form^  Extent  and  Surface* 

HE  parifh  of  Raync  is  fituated  in  that  diftrlft  of  the 
county  of  Aberdeen,  called  Gariocby  anciently  Garvioch.  The 
church,  built  in  1789,  for  360 1.  Sterling,  lies  23  Englifti 
miles  north  from  Aberdeen,  and  9  from  Inverury  \  and 
the  road  from  Aberdeen  to  Huntly  pafies  through  Old  Rairi, 
a  poft  town  on  the  Southern  extremity  of  the  parifh.  The 
Hver  Urie  divides  it  on  the  S.  W.  from  the  parifli  of  Oyne* 
The  figure  of  the  pafifh  is  nearly  a  fquare,  each  fide  of  which 
is  about  two  miles,  and  the  church  is  very  centrical.  There 
is  a  hill  upon  the  north  fide  of  the  parifli  covered  with  heath 
and  hard  weeds ;  and  the  reft  of  the  parifli  is  pretty  fiat, 
with  a  few  gently  rifing  fpots. 


ofRayne.  T07 

Soil  and  Cultivation. — ^The  in-field  foil  is  generally  a  rich 
}oam,  with  a  clay  bottom ;  and,  when  well  managed,  produ- 
ces good  crops.  -  The  pxefent  rainifter  has  often  had  a  re* 
turn,  after  a  crop  of  turnips,  of  14  bolls  of  good  bear,  upon 
an  acre  fowed  with  ten.  pecks.  The  out-^eld,  which  ^on-f 
ftitutes  n>ore  than  two  thirds  of  tlie  arable  ground,  is  gene- 
rally of  a  light  loamy  foil;  and,  when  dunged  and  •  limed, 
produces  grain  of  a  fharper  and  better  quality,  than  the 
in-field.  Thclarge  farms,  which  are  very  few,  are  plowed 
by  oxen,  of  8  or  10  in  a  plough.  But  the  grcateft  part  of 
the  parifli  confifts  of  crofts,  or  fmall  holdings,  plowed  by 
two  horfes,  and  fometimes  two  horfes  and  two  cows,  and  that 
very  impeife^lly.  The  tenants  are  at  no  pains  to  clean  their 
grounds  of  a  great  deal  of  weeds,  fucb  as  runches  or  wild 
muflard,  knot^grafsi  couch-grafs,  and  wild  oats.  Indeed 
there  are  too  many  fmall  crofts }  and  the  occupiers  of  them 
are  fo  poor,  that  their  cattle  have  not  ftrength  enough  to 
plow  and  drefe  them  properly.  As  there  is  plenty  of  peat 
mofs,  which  mod  of  the  parifluoners  have  a  right  to,  the  pro- 
prietors have  by  this  means  broken  down  the  pofleflions,  and 
raifed  their  rents ;  but  this  has  been  a  bar  to  the  improvement 
of  the  ground.  A  better  mode  of  farming,  however,  has  of 
late  got  in  among  fome  of  the  tenants,  who  bring  lime  from 
Aberdeen,  and  lay  down  an  acre  with  turnips  yearly,  and  the 
year  after  fow  it  with  bear,  and  red  clover  and  rye-grafs 
feeds.  They  already  fee  the  great  advantage  of  thefe  little 
improvements,  and  they  will  doubtlefs  foon  extend  them  far- 
ther ;  and  others  will  be  led  to  follow  their  example.  Their 
great  diftance  froip  lime  or  manure  of  any  kind  is  no  fmall 
obftacle  to  improvement. 

Produccy  Seaf9ns  and  Wages. — The  principal  grain  raifed 
in  the  parifli  is  bear  and  oats  j  of  the  in-field,  generally  one 

third 


itz  Statijiical  Accoupt 

thiTc!  is  bear  and  two  thirds  arc  oats.  Every  tenant  plants 
as  many  potatoes  as  fervcs  his  own  family,  and  fometimes  a 
few  more,  which  are  fold  at  6d.  the  peck  of  i6  lib.  weight; 
bat  there  is  little  demand  for  that  article.  We  generally 
fow  our  oats  about  the  middle  of  April,  and  our  bear  from 
the  beginning  to  the  middle  of  May.  Our  potatoes  are 
planted  about  the  beginning  of  May.  In  an  ordinary  year, 
our  bear  rs  ripe  by  the  20th  of  Auguft,  and  our  oats  by  the 
firft  week  of  September.  We  have  tery  few  labourers.  A  man 
fenrant's  wages  is  from  6  I.  to  8  1.  a  year  \  and  a  maid  fcr- 
rant's  from  2  1;  10  s.  to  3  1.  Sterling. 

Fuel  and  Plantations. — On  the  N.  E.  fide  of  the  pa- 
rilb  there  is  an  extenfive  peat  mofs,  which  affords  excellent 
fuel,  though  it  con  fumes  a  great  deal  of  the  farmer's  time  in 
caftzngy  drying,  and  bringing  home  his  peats,  and  which 
might  be  applied  with  more  profit  to  the  other  purpofes  of 
agrioslture.  This  mofs  feems  Qncc  to  have  been  covered 
with  oak,  alder,  and  hazle  trees ;  as  oak  trees  of  a  large 
fize  afe  ftill  found  at  a. great  depth,  and  fc  frefli  as  to  be  of 
fomc  »fe.  There  arc  at.  prcfent  but  a  few  acres  planted 
wkh  trees  in  the  parifh,  and  thefe  are  the  common  Scotch 
firs.  There  are  alfo  a  few  a(h>  elm,  and  plane  trees,  on 
different  fpots  of  ground. 

Minerals f  Roads  and  Wild  ^tadrupeds^ — Such  ftones  as 
arc  in  the  parifli  are  of  the  liard  iron  kind,  but  they  are  eafi- 
]y  blown  with  gun  powder,  and  drcffed  for  building.  Our 
rO'uls  are  kept  in  tolerable  repair.  As  there  is  a  great  deal 
of  oroom  in  the  out- fields,  hares  are  very  common,  and  there 
are  alfo  fomc  polecats  and  foxes. 

Climate. — The  air  is  dry  and  remarkably  wholefome,  1^ 
the  whole*,  county  of  Garioch  is,  and  many  of  the  people  live 

t» 


of  Rayne.  113 

a  great  age.  Rayhc  lies  in  an  open  country,  having  one  ridge 
of  hills  to  the  S.  W.  and  another  to  the  N.-  E.  The  dry- 
nefs  of  the  air  is  owing  to  this  local  (ituation  of  the  parifti. 
The  clouds  are  attrafted  by  thcfe  ridges/  of  hills  on  each 
fide,  and  fogs  often  reft  upon  the  tops  of  them,  while  the  in- 
habitants enjoy  a  clear  and  dry  air  in  the  open  country. 
Sometimes  again,  when  the  clouds  break  into  rain  on  the 
hills,  or  on  the  fides  of  the  hills,  the  (kirts  only  of  the  ihow- 
er  reach  us  in  the  open  country. 

Difeaftfs.-^Vfe  have  no  epidemical  difeafcs. — ^In  fpring  and 
autumn  fome  fevers  appear  among  the  poor  people,  who  live 
upon  a  low  Hiet.  Thcfe  are  generally  of  the  nervous  kind  ; 
but  when  the  patients  apply  timeoufly  for  medical  affiftance, 
the  fever  of^en  gives  way  to  wine  and  bark,  and  good  atten- 
tion to  air  and  cleanlinefau  We  have  many  flight  fore  throats, 
that  arc  relieved  by  bliftering  and  gargling.  Many  of  the 
parifliioners  are  fubjeft  to  fcurvy,  and  other  cutaneous  dif- 
orders;  which  appear  upon  their  faces,  hands  and  legs.  This 
perhaps  ajrifes  from  the  poomefs  of  their  food,  conCfting  of 
pottage,  brofe  and  fowens,  oat-meal  cakes,  kail,  potatoes, 
turnips  and  milk.  They  ufe  little  ale,  and  that  not  of  a  good 
quality.  But  the  moft  fatal  difeafe  is  pneumonia^  or  cpnfump- 
tion,  which  ^cuts  pfF  7  or  8  young  people  every  year.  And 
what  is  very  melancholy,  there  are  at  prefent  more  than  ao 
perfons  affli£led  with  real  fcrophula,  and  the  number  of 
fuch  has  increafed  of  late  9  while  the  parifliioners  intermar- 
ry wtth  one  another,  they  never  pay  attention  to  this  matter. 
Religious  prejudices  agamft  inoculation  for  the  imall-pox 
arc  wearing  away,  and  the  praflice  of  inoculating  children 
is  getting  in.  But  till  It  univerfally  prevail  in  a  countryJike 
this,  it  will  not  be  a  real  blcffing.  The  infeftion  is  com- 
municated from  the  inoculated  to  the  children  of  thofe  who 
Vol.  XV.  P  ftiU 


"4 


Statyiical  Account 


ftill  retain  their  old  prejudices  \  and  thiw  we  have  the  fmall- 
pox  raging  every  year  in  a  place  where,  (as  tb^  writer  her^* 
of  remembjrs,)  about  30  years  ago,  the  diftemper  ^fed  to' 
come  about  only  once  in  4  or  5  years.  Among  th(e  female 
fex,  who  are  moftiy  employed  in  the  fedentary  work  of  knit- 
ting ftpckings  for  the  Dutch  m^ket,  chronic  or  low  hyfteria 
complaints  are  very  common* 

Populaihn.-^The  population  of  this  parifh  has  been  almoft 
stationary  thefe  many  years,  though  there  is  a  fmall  increafc 
on  the  whole,  fince  the  return  made  to  Dr  Webfter,  as  ap- 
pears from  the  following  tabje, 

POPOLATIOM  TABLE,  OP  THE  PARISH  Of  RaTNE. 


JIo.  of  fouls  in  1 75J, 

'  in  1760^ 

^- in  1794. 


Sexe^,  Births,  ficc*     . 
No.  of  males,  . 

L    .   '  Feoiales,  • 

Mpjority  of  the  latter 

Ages. 
Iperfons  under  10  yean  of  age 
"-T*— Between  10  and  ao 

? 20  and  30 

r  3oand4Q 
'  '  40  and  JO 
-"  50  and  6q 
!■■  60  and  fo 
■  ■  70  and  80 
1.  ■■  80  and  90 
«^Agcd    ^^^4 


1131 

I143    Increafc  in  5  years,  t^ 

1 1 73    Ditto  in  34  years,  30 


Total  increafe  within  thefe  40  years 

Annual  aveiage  of  Blrchb, 
521     '   '  ■  Marriages, 

651    ■  Death* 

— —    No.  ofEpifcopilians, 
999    Members  of  the  Eaablifhcd 
Church,  • 


4» 
«4 
10 

17 

XII3 

148 

Ii9 

3X8 

204 

44 

z 


In  all        ix;3 


ifRayne.  iij 

ManufaSun  .^-^The  only  maimfaf^ure  is  the  knitting  of 
ftockings,  in  which  all  the  wpmen  are  employed,  and  fome 
of  the  boys  and  even  Id  men.  It  is  fuppofcd,  that  this  ar- 
ticle may  yield  to  the  parifli  about  4ool.  Sterling.  The  hofe 
arc  of  that  coarfe  kind)  which  bring  for  working  the  pair  il 
or  14  pence  Sterling ;  and  fome  of  the  women  will -knit  twti 
pairs,  or  two  piirs  and  a  half  in  the  week.  If  it  were  not 
for  thin  lad  article,  the  rents  ti  the  fmall  crofts  could  not  be 
paid,  as  the  crofters  have  no  other  way  of  earning  money,  but 
by  anniially  rearing  a  young  ox  or  cow. 

Exports  and  Cattle. — ^There  is  annually  about  20O  bbUs  of 
meal  cartied  ottt  of  this  paiiih  to  the  Aberdeen  market ;  and^ 
"as  nearly  as  can  be  found,  180  cattle,  young  and  old,  bought 
up  and  driven  to  the  fouth  country,  by  dealers  in  that  arti- 
tide,  Wotth  at  ah  average  3I.  a  head.  There'  aVe-^ery  few 
herfcs teafed,  and  not  abdte  200  fheep liept intfar {Ririfh. ^ 

•     -•  *  •  .»^ 

Pnprtftars,  RertfSy  5s'^.-^Tli«gr6fs#elitof  dl*t*4i^tej)infli 
in  money,  aiid  ifieal  at  10s.  pet  boll,  is  abdut  1 3t5dr«Ste^iii^j 
«ild  the  valued  rent  15441.  SdNthi  The  ptdpi*el»§  iit  Aknl- 
ander  Leith  of  Free^ld,  James  Ht)m  Elphinfttfli^  0{htig\ti 
John  F<$tbes  of  Blackford,  Aleir^nder  Lefli^  «f  Wsfrtk^  atid 
Alexander  Stewart  of  Loanhcad,  Efquires.  The  n^diuDd 
rent  of  the  in-field  is  20s.  Sterling  per  acre.  There  is  meal 
paid  for  thfe  'bttt-fields,  at  th^  rdte  of  ferorti  ts.*^  8s:  iir  ps. 
the  acre*  S6me  of  the  fmall  crofts  'Art  tent^  as  higbhds  2^i 
peractk*      •    -  •    '  .  .   •^"  ' 

Cittf-ctf',  ^*flf  Sr*w>/,.-— The   ptefent  ^iperid  k  4>2i;  Stet- 

lin^,  J2  bolls  of  meal,  ^n^  'i6  bolb  tf  bear ;  f^Qf  ii*prb(5«fs 

of  augtkienHitioh  is  in  de^ficfeilice.    Tlie  mirfle 'wis  btiiH  in 

1 7$  I  for  ic<^I.  Seoteh.     The  fchool-heufe  Wall  late^J^ttHt 

P  %  M 


1x6  Statyiical  Account 

for  i6I.  Stcriing,  and  the  fchool-mafteir's  falary  is  but  eight 
bolls  of  meal.  The  heritors  in  general  are  avcrfe  to  the  giv- 
ing of  a  legal  falarjr. 

Poor. — The  average  number  of  poor  that  receive  alms  is 
from  1 5  to  10,  The  annual  f um  expended  for  their  relief  is 
about  20I.  Sterling,  which  is  all  produced  by  the  colledions  in 
the  church  on  Sundays,  excepting  the  interedofpol.  Stirling 
appropriated  to  them.  Thefe  1 5  or  20  perfons  live  in  houfes 
of  their  own,  and  there  is  not  one  in  the  parifli  that  be^ 
from  door  to  door.  Notwithftanding  this,  we  arc  much 
troubled  with  beggars,  efpecially  from  the  Highhuids  in 
fummer,  when  we  muQ  fometimes  ferve  half  a  dozen  of  them 
ihoneiay... 

•  Oi^a^lesto /«»^i?t^fm^ft/.— There  are.herc,  as  in  the.  neigh- 
bouring p9TtnieSf  great  bs^rs  ^o  improvement.  The  lime  is  <U^ 
tant  23  miles.  Many  of  the  tenants  have  no  leafes.  Since 
)782rfen|ieluv^f alien  a  little  in  arrears  with  their  rents,  and 
.  feetn  )^  .^.;|nt  that  fenfe  of  fejcwity  which  (limolates  induf- 
|fy..  ':Whfft<4.  pofleiBon  is  v^ant,  there  is  not  always  the 
pr(^^r*:^ftif|}Slif>il  macl^  betweeh  a  good  and  fubftantiaL  ten* 
ant,  a^l>ne:whp  ptoinif6»>9  gte^t  rent,  but  often.'fsuld  to 

f^y'^n   •  .:.:.  . 

..      i  ..r  .:.       •  —./.'*'  . 

'  M^^lfr.  A£«A«r3f/,  Services f  isfc. — There  are  five  mili$  in 
.the  patiH),  At  (irft  therCpnAr^^lion  of  a  mill  >va$  a  work 
of  ingenuity,  and  the  proprietor  obliged  his  tenants  to  grind 
all  their  corn  at  his  mill.  But  it  requires  no  great  genius 
no^-M-djiy^  tP  conftriiA  a  mill.  .  The  tetiarits  pay.  thirlage, 
andt»r({  re8«^P*to  a  particulaar.  mill.  This  fomctimes  4- 
mount»to  the  17th  peek.  They  pay  alfo  muUures,,or  the  price 
•fgfMAtig^  which  is  pften*thic.32d  peck.    They  pay  alfo  to 

tlie 


ofRayne.  tVf 

the  miller  a  lick  of  goodvilli^  or  a  ianmcky  which  tenants  Have 
fometimes  allowed  to  be  meafured ;  and  there  are  inftanocs. 
where  another  unmeafured  lick  has  crept  in.    Even  the  fads 
fifted  from  the  bannock  are  fometimes  paid*   When  all  fhefe 
kgfns  are  added  together,  they  amount  at  fome  <iuUs  to  a: 
twelfth  or  eleventh  part  of  the  wholecorn  carried  to  the  miii. 
This  is  a  fevere  tax  upon  the  indUftry  of  an  io^roTiog 
tenants    Sometimes  too  the  corn  that- grows  on  farms  thiri' 
kd  to  a  mill^  is  obitgcd  to  pay  muburti  whether  the  joom  to 
ground  at  that  mill  ur  not.    Except  the  experice  ^f  grinding* 
all  thirlage  (hould  be  commuted.-to  thetenant^  in  order  that 
he  may  leap  the  benefit  of  his.ow:^  indyftry.     9iit  we  hnre 
one  inAancc  here  where  even  this  is  prevented*   the  teft- 
ants  of  one  eftate  being  thirled  to  the  mill  of  another.  Ano- 
ther abfurdity  is»  ^Titjbillen^  u  e»  {healing,  or  hulter  corn,  is 
meafured  by^  the  tackfman  of  the  mill,  and  is  paid,  not  in 
fliealing,  bat  in  meaL     There  arc  accordingly  great  com- 
plaints that  the- corn  is  not  well  (healed.    Another  evil  is, 
that  thereis  a  millpefi^  whiqh  generally  holds  as  much  (healing 
as  will  grind  to  three  and  fometimes  four  pecks  of  meaL 
For  the  (healing  of  the  ftock,  the  tenant  pays  meal  meafur- 
ed with  a  a>gf  or  wooden  difii,  that  pays  for  a  certain  quan- 
tity of  (healing.      There  is  aifo  another  cog  for  fmall  quan- 
tities of  (healing.     And  if  all  thefe  meafures  were  accurate- 
ly fixed  and  proportioned,  there  would  be  lefs  injuftice ;  but 
that  is  not  the  cafe.   The  multurer  is  allowed  to  mend  them 
or  make  them  anew,  or  alter  them  as  he  pleafes.    There 
ought  to  be  a  book  kept  by  the  prpprietor  of  the  mill,  and 
figned  by  him  and  the  multurer,  and  the  principal  tenants^ 
in  order  to  afpertain  the  exad  contents  of  thefe  feveral  mea- 
fures. We  have  alfd  fome  Goibic  fervices  done  by  the  tenants, 
that  ought  to  be  abolilhed,  fuch  as  reaping,  earing,  plow- 
ing 


11%  Statical  Account 

xag»  fianrowing^  drfTing  cmt  dittig/ahH  bringing  home  lime  and 
Qtber  afticles  to  the  hndloifd^ra/u;. 

Antiquities  and  Cbaraffer*^-^Wc  hare  no  antiquities,  ex* 
Geptidg  two  Dniidical  temples,  Which  dte  coihmbn  in  everf 
parifli  of  this  county ;  and  fome  cairns,  under  one  of  which 
there  is  a  tfadkion  that  Irvine^  the  laird  of  Drum,  lies  buried. 
It  is  repdvtedthat  he  vteas  jBaIn  in  purfuing  Donald  Lord  of 
the Ifles,  afioef  the  batdeof  Harlaw,  in  die  year  1411,.  The 
bifhdp  of  Aberdeen  had  f<^rmerly  a  houfe  at  Old-Rain  in  this 
pxAfh. '  The  people  in  gtneral  are  fober,  regular  and  induf- 
tfioo^,  and4tie  as  contented  widi  their  condition  as  moft  peo- 
ple. 


NUMBER 


\..ii\':  \'\i 


ofKirkbfian.  zig 

NUMBER    VII. 
PARISH   ofKIRKBEAlN, 

(CouNTT  OF  Kirkcudbright^  Presbttert  and  Stnob 
OF  Dumfries.) 

Bf  the  Rev.  Mr  Edward  -I^EUfSON,  Minijler. 


Origin  of  the  Name, 

X  HB  antieat  name  of  the  parifh  is  faid  to  have  been 
Caerben.  It  is  evidently  derived  from  the  Celtic  or  Gaelic, 
and  figniBes  the  high  fort  or  town*  Caer  in  that  language 
fignifies  a  fortified  town  or  place,  and  ten,  high.  Doftor 
Clapperton  of  Lochmafaen,  a  gentleman  well  known  for 
his  knowledge  of  antiquities,  is  of  opinion  tliat  Camden,  the 
Engliih  antiquary,  with  his  followers,  are  miflaken,  when 
they  make  Catrfeveroch  the  Caerbentcrigum  of  Ptolomy,  while 
others,  from  mere  conjefture,  make  it  the  Uxel/um,  That 
Horfely,  another  Englifh  antiquary,  has  mifled  the  late  Rev. 
Doftor  Henry  of  Edinburgh,  to  Bardenna  in  the  parilh  of 
Keir,  which  he  makes  the  Cacrbcntorigum  of  Ptolomy,  or 
the  Carbantium  of  the  Geographer  Revennas.  Nothihg, 
he  aflerts,  can  be  more  abfurd,  as  Caerben  is  obvioufly  poin* 
ted  out^  both  in  the  Caerbentorigum  of  Fto  omy,  and  in  the 

Carbantium 


120  Statiftical  Account 

Carbantium  of  the  Geographer  Revennas.  The  Cae  rben- 
torigum  of  Ptoloiny  was  (ituated  at  the  inputh  of  the  Noviua 
Pluvius  or  Nith.  Agreeably  to  this,  there  is,  clofe  upon  the 
fhore,  where  the  river  now  empties  itfelf  into  the  fea,  about 
a  mile  and  a  half  to  the  S.  &  of  the  church,  a  high  riling 
ground,  called  the  Borron  HiU^  upon  which  has  ftood  a  Caf- 
tle  or  Fort,  ftill  known  by  the  nzme  of  the  Ca/lU-Hili,  or 
M^Ctdheh^s  Co/lie  ;  and,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  to  the  Weft, 
there  is  a  place  called  Torrorie^  in  both  of  which  the  word 
Caerhentorigum  is  ftill  retained* 

Situation^  Hllls^  JsV* — ^It  i«  (ituated  on  a  promontory  in  tlic  * 
S.  £•  comer  of  Galloway,  in  lat.  54.  55  m.  It  is  bounded 
on  the  N.  E.  by  the  parifli  of  Caerleveroch  in  Nitlifdale,  from 
which  it  is  feparated  by  the  Frith  of  Nith  about  3  milci. 
On  the  S.  E.  the  firft  land  to  be  fecn  is  the  county  of  Cum- 
berland, in  the  North  pf  England,  from  which  it  is  feparated 
by  the  Solway  Firth,  about  10  miles.  On  the  Weft,  iris 
bounded  by  the  united  paiifhes  of  Colvend  andSouthwich ; 
and>oa  the  North>by  the  parifh  oi  New- Abbey  or  Sweet-beart. 
It  was  anciently  within  the  diocefe  or  bifhopric  of  Galloway, 
and  now,  with  9  other  parifhes,  lying  betwixt  the  water  q 
Urr  and  the  river  Nith,  is  within  the  Prefbytery  and  Synod 
of  Dumfries,  from  which  it  is  diftant  about  ti  miles.  From 
the  North|  where  it  joins  New-Abbey,  it  flretches  about  3^ 
miles  to  the  Weft,  and  ppon  the  ftiore,  which  is  nearly  paral- 
lel, it  runs  about  6  miles.  Its  breadth  may  be  about  3  miles, 
but  it  varies.  From  Weft  to  North  there  is  a  ridge  of  hills, 
which  terminates  in  Crofell,  or  Crowfell,  which  is  the  high- 
eft  hiil  in  thd  S.  of  Scotland,  and  a  confiderable  part  of  which 
i  within  the  parifh.    The  height  of  i\  has  been  accurately 

afcertaincd. 


qfKirkbean.  iii^ 

afcntained  *.  From  this  ridge  of  hilk^  the  parllh  inclines 
towards  the  (here,  and  prefents  to  the  eye  a  rich,  beautiful^ 
and  extenfive  profpe£i,  fields  well  inclofcd,  and  in  a  high  ftat^ 
of  ciiltiTation  \  with  fevcral  clumps  and  belts  of  planting. 

Climate  and  Diseases.  The  climate  is  healthy.  The  inha- 
bitants are  not  fubje£t  to  any  local  difeafe.  Formerly  the 
ague  is  faid  to  have  been  frequent ;  now  it  has  almod  entire- 
ly dlfappeared.  This,  by  fome,  has  been  attributed  to  the 
neceffary  operations  of  agriculture,  the  wet  and  morafs 
grounds  being  now  moilly  drained.  By  others,  however,  of 
.more  knowledge  and  experience,  it  has  been  attributed  to  a- 
nother  caufc.  Formerly,  many  of  the  inhabitants  went  into 
Lincolnfliire  for  employment  during  th^  harveft,  and  re- 
turned infe£led  with  this  difeafe ;  now  they  have  work  fuf- 
ficient  to  employ  them  in  the  parifli,  and  the  difeafe  is  fel-i 
dom  a  complaint.    Innoculadon  is  frequent  aiid  fuccefsfuL 

Soil  and  Produce,    The  foil  is  various.     Upon  the  N.  W; 

and  W.  a  conQderable  tra£k  lies  upon  lime-ftone.    Upon  the 

VoL.  XV.  q1  S.  £; 

^  In  17S4.  RoBKRT  RiDOtLL,  Efi};  <»f  Gleiilriddel],«tnployed  Mr  WHKini 
M^anocy  iaDd-fuTYCTor,  to  take  for  him  the  height  of  this  hitt.  The  foUowiag 
is  a  copy  of  Mr  M*Carto^'8  letter  to  hmi.  *'  Sir,^-Beiog  the  other  day  at 
<*  CrofeU,  and  recoiled ing  the  converfation  we  had  abont  iu  height,  I  rcfol- 
".Ted  to  afcertain  it*  I  made  my  obfcrvation*  frodi  a  bafe  on  the  (bore,  of 
^  a  mile  in  length,  and  the  rcfalt  was  as  foltowt :  vii.  Douglas  Cairn,  ori 
<<  the  fummit  of  the  mountain,  18^5,  fay  i^feet  iA  rooad  BumWl*^  and 
■«  Knockendoqh,  or  the  north  wmg  of  the  mountain,  z^oo  feet  iSt^t  JugH  wa» 
<'  ter  mark.  I  adjufted  the  lilcl  before  bblervation,  for,  by  ad  ezf  eriaeht,  t 
*<  foand  that  it  pointed  two  feet  too  low,  in  every  hnndred  yards/* 

1h  1440,  William  Eafl  of  Douglas,  the  lafl  warden  of  the  wed  ttiatchei| 
affembied  the  haii  iarnh,  freeholders,  and  eldeft  bcrderen  of  his  wardeftr/ 
at  lancluden.  There  he  correded  and  improfcd  the  b«rdet  lawf ;  a  «ef;^ 
of  which  is  CO  be  found  in  the  Lord  Maxwell's  masufcript  of  the  laWs  of  the 
marches.  In  chefe  laws,  this  hill  is  mentioned  as  one  of  the  beatons  for  a- 
larming  the  country,  during  the  frequent  iscurfiocs  nade  by  the  BngUfli 
into  Scotland.- 


122  Statijlttal  Account 

S.  £•  there  is  a  rich  and  deep  clay  and  loam ;  and  upon  theS. 
W.  there  are  looo  acres  of  fait  and  whinny  pafture,  in  feme 
places  light  and  Tandy,  but  moftly  arable^  and  cbnfidered  as 
capable  of  being  improved  by  tillage,  to  advantage.  The  foil 
in  general  is  fertile,  and  produces  wheat,  barley,  oats,  pota- 
toes, beans,  peas,  turnips,  rye  and  clover  feeds.  There  may 
be  annually  in  the  parifh 

Under  wheat,  -  -  133  acres 

Barley,  -  -  140 

Oat*i,  -  -  600 

■■  Beans,  peas,  turnips,  and  pota- 

toes, -  •  I  JO 

1023 

Exporfs.-^Thc  crops  are  more  than  fufficient  to  fupply  the 
inhabitants.  Wheat  is  generally  carried  to  Dumfries.  A 
confiderable  quantity  of  barley,  oats^  and  potatoes,  is  export* 
cd  to  the  Whitehaven,  Lancafter,  and  Liverpool  markets,  and 
frequently  to  the  porfs  of  Clyde.  Potatoes  were  firft  export- 
ed from  this,  in  any  confiderable  quantity,  in  December  1774, 
by  the  late  Peter  Greggan,  tenant  in  the  farm  of  Kirkhoufe. 
For  feveral  years  fince,  a  quantity  has  been  raifed,  equal  in 
v^ue  to  the  whole  rentalof  the  parilh  about  40  years  ago. 

Black  Cattle  and  Horses. — ^The  cattle  are  generally  of  the 
Galloway  breed,  and  when  fattened  for  the  butcher,  or  for  the 
South  of  England,  they  weigh  well  for  their  fize.  It  is  cer- 
tain, however,  that  the  parifti,  is  capable  of  feeding  in  pro- 
portion, cattle  of  a  larger  kind.  This  has  been  proved  by 
William  Craik,  Efqj  of  Arbigland,  who  made  the  experi- 
ment ;  whilft  a  confiderable  part  of  his  eftate  was  kept  in 
pafture,  he  introduced*  the  Bakewell  breed j  and  found  that 

tht 


ofKirkbean.  123 

the  (ame  number  of  thefe  cattle^  upon  the  fame  field,  fattened 
equally  with  thofe  of  the  Galloway  kind.  Their  number  are 
,  a«  fdlows : 

Horses  Black  Cattle. 

Empldyed  in  agriculture,  141     Milk  cows,  iig 

Ditto  bred,  -  37     Cattle  grazed,  117T 

Total,  befides   carriage  1400 

and  faddle  horfes,         1 78 

Sheep  and  JFffol.'-r'Thc  number  of  fliecp  of  the  black- faced 
Scotch  breed,  kept  upon  the  fait  and  whinny  pafture,  and 
inoi^ly  fattened  for  the  butcher,  is  about,     17  fcores,  or  340 

Of  the  fame  kind  upon  the  high  land, 
^     and  moftly  kept  as  a  breeding  ftock, 

about  -  40  fcorc  or  800 

Total  of  this  kind,  57  i  r40 

The  management  of  this  kind  of  fheep  is  fuch  as  is  gene- 
rally  followed  in  other  parts  of  the  South  of  Scotland-  Their 
lambs  are  fold  at  4I.  per  fcore,  and  their  wool  at  7s.  6d.  per 
ftone,  being  241b  Englifli  to  the  (lone.  Of  the  Spanj/b  kind, 
there  are  a  few  in  the  parifli,  but  of  them  little  at  prcfent 
can  be  faid,  as  they  were  but  lately  brought  into  thi£  part  of 
the  county.  The  kind  of  Sheep  that  produces  the  b^ft  wool, 
and  appears  to  be  of  moft  advantage  to  the  farmer,  is  of  the 
Bahwell  breed.  They  were  firft  brought  into  this  parifh  by 
the  late  Peter  Gaeggan  formerly  ntentioned  *,  and  with 
regard  to  wool,  have  fince  been  much  improved.  Their 
wool  was  lately  compared  with  that  of  a  Spanifli  ram,  fent 
to  William  Craik,  Efq;  by  Sir  JohnSikclair,  and  found 
to  be  equal  to  that  of  the  Spanifh,  if  not  finer  in  quality. 
^The  wool  of  thefe  (heep,  upon  tlie  farm  of  Kirkhoufe,  was 

q^  2  fold, 


|34  Statifiical  Jccaunt 

fekl,  laft  feafon,  at  il.  per  ftonc  Their  lambs  fell  at  iss* 
each  5  and,  when  above  two  yea«  old,  weigh  171b  or  2clb  per 
quarter.    Thejr  are  ied  upon  gopd  land. 

Agricultun.-r^Yiv^  parifli  is  generally  allowed  to  have 

been  the  firft  in  the  South  of  Scotland,  in  an  improved  (late 

pf  agriculture.     This  mud  as  generally  be  afcribed  to  the 

fuperior  knowledge,  and  unwearied  attention  of  the  prcfent 

William  Craik,  Efq;.of  Arbiglsnd,  formerly  mentioned* 

whofe  example  has  had  a  moft  ufeful  influence. 

t 
Implements  of  Hosbandry. 

Number  of  Scotch  and  Englifli  ploughs  -         47 

; —     ■     ditto  Drill  for  fowing  different  grains, 
befides  turnip  drills. 

Total,  50 

The  common  plough,  with  the  round  fock,  is  generally  ufed 
in  the  high  land  of  the  pwiSi.  The  £ngli(h  plough,  with 
the  broad  ock,  and  broad  and  pot-metal  moulds,  upon  tlie 
\ow  and  level  land.  The  drill,  where  the  land  is  level,  an4 
free  of  large  ftones.  This  plough,  in  its  prefen^  (late,  was 
conftruded  by  William  Ceaik,  £fq;  and  has  been  ufed  u- 
pon  his  eftate  for  many  years  paft.  It  is  drawn  by  one  horfe 
pnly,  and  fows  four  rows  at  once.  Three  Winchedcr  bufhels 
ef  oats  to  the  acre,  fown  by  this  plough,  are  found  to  be  fuffi- 
cient,  whereas  8  and  fometimes  9  Winchefter  bufliels  to  the 
acre,  are  generally  fown  by  broad  ca(L  Barley  and  oats 
fown  by  thi$  plough  are  allowed  t»  be  better  headed,  and 
of  fuperior  quality,  to  any  fown  by  broad  caft.  This  has  al* 
ready  been  experienced  by  fame  of  the  farmers  in  the  panfli, 
who  have  followed  Mr  Craik*8  example  ;  and  it  is  expe£led, 
that,  where  the  land  is  fuitabie,  felf  intereft  will  make  it  more 

generally 


ofKirkbeatt.  125 

generally  prcv»iL  Ploughs  of  this  cdnftru^on  are  made  in 
the  pariih,  at  61.  6s:  each.  Iiilr  Craik  has  u&d  the  fame 
plough,  in  fowing  all  kinds  of  graiUf  excepting  pulfei  for 
thefe  30  years  pad,  and  it  is  ftiU  in  good  repair.  Four  oxen, 
with  two  horfes,  and  two  men,  were  fornierly  ufed  in  plow* 
ing.  Now,  two  horfesy  with  one  maoi  who  holds  the  plough, 
and  drives  the  horfes  himfelf,  are  found  fufficient  even  for 
the  hcavieft  lan(f. 

Rotation  rf  Cro^/.— Common  rotation,  two  crops  of  oats« 
a  green  crop,  potatoes,  beans,  peafe,  or  turnips,  with  a  drefsi- 
ing  of  dung :  ITicn  a  crop  of  wheat,  or  barley,  fown  out 
with  rye  and  clover  feeds,  to  lie  3  or  4  years.  The  following 
rotation  has  been  tried,  but  its  eifedt  has  not  yet  been  fully 
afcertained  -,  ift,  oats  upon  ftubble  -,  ad,  horfe  beans,  in  rows, 
about  20  inches  diftant,  with  a  full  drefEng  of  dung,  horfe 
^nd  hand  hoed  ;  3d,  wheat  upon  one  furrow ;  4th,  turnips, 
potatoes,  cabbage,  &c,  horfe  hoed,  on  four  feet  ridges,  giving 
the  crop  half  a  dunging  ;  5th,  barley  with  red  and  white  clo« 
ver  feeds,  to  ly  one  or  two  years,  and  then  return  to  oats. 
This  rotation  is  propofed,  to  make  a  fummer  fallow  unne;- 
ccflary.  It  is  fuited  for  a  good  loamy  foil,  and  where  there 
is  accefs  to  lime,  marl,  or  any  natural  manure.  Where  to 
thefe  there  is  no  accefs,  there  mjght  be  difficulty  in  finding 
a  fufiicient  quantity  of  dung.  There  is  now  no  diftinfiion 
inade  between,  the  cmfi  and  the  out-field. 

Proprietors, — The  proprietors  are  "William  Ci;aik|  Efq;  of 
Arbigland,  Richard  Alexander  Ofwald,  Efq*,  of  Auchen-^ 
cruive,  Alexander  Dickfon,  Efq;  of  Ladyland,  with  James 
Duff,  William  M'Kie,  and  John  Liddle,  portioners.  Mr 
Craik  is  the  only  refiding  heritor.  Of  this  gentleman,  it  is 
not  eafy  to  fay  too  much,  in  the  opinion  of  his  acquaintance, 
gr  too  little,  in  his  own.  For  general  knowledge,  for  libe- 
rality 


126  ^  StcUiJiical  Account 

ralrty  of  fentitnent,  and  for 'his  exertions  in  pron:ioting  the 
improvement  of  his  country,  he  has  had  few  equa:ls.  Through 
a  life  prolonged  to  the  extraordinary  length  of  above  90 
years,  he  has  cultivated  thefe  virtues  ;  and,  even  at  this  ad- 
vanced age,  he  has  the  rare  felicity  of  being  ftill  capable  of 
communicating,  and  of  enjoying  the  pleafures  which  arifc 
from  converfation,  and  from  the  fociety  of  his  friends. 

Divifion  and  Value  of  the  Parijb* — The  parifti,  as  at  prefcnt 
poilefled,  is  divided  into  36  farms,  and  of  thefe,  one  is  gene- 
rally kept  in  pafture.  The  whole  land  of  the  pari(h  is  twice 
doubled  in  rent  within  thefe  40  years.  The  eftate  of  Arbig- 
land  is  at  prefent  five  times  the  reiit  that  it  was  37  years 
ago.  This  great  advance  evidently  proves  the  attention  and 
iridoftry  of  the  proprietor  and  tenants. 

ViRageSy — Kirhbean. — There  are  3  villages  in  flie  parifli, 
Kirkbcan,  Prefton,  and  Saltemefs.  The  village  of  Kirkbean 
formerly  confided  of  farm  houfes  chiefly,  with  a  joiner's  and 
a  Uackfmith's  houfe.  At  prefent,  there  are  two  joiners 
houfes,  one  blackfmith's  houfe,  two  grocery  ihops,  two  ale- 
houfes,  with  fcveral  others,  inhabited  by  the  labourers  and 
cottagers  belonging  to  the  neighbouring  farms.  This  vil- 
lage is  pleafantly  fituated.  It  (lands  upon  a  place  almod 
furroumied  with  little  bilk,  ai\d  fifing  ground,  covered  with 
wood.  From  the  W.  defcen^s  a  fmall  rivulet,  which,  among 
the  wood,  forms  a  beautiful  cataraft,  and  then,  running  gent- 
ly through  the  village,  in  the  centre  of  which  there  is  a 
bridge,  it  empties  itfclf  into  the  fea.  The  proprietor  Mr  Os- 
wakl,  in  the  late  fet  of  a  neighbouring  farm,  has  reibrved  a 
part  of  this  village,  to  accomodate  the  poor  on  his  eftate, 
with  free  liQufes  ;  a  mark  of  that  benevolence  and  humanity 
which  alone  can  add  dignity  to  affluence,  and  of  which, 

during 


f^f  Kirkbean.  127 

during  the  late  refidence  of  the  family  in  tliis  paridiy  the  m- 
dtgenc  have  fo  liberally  received. 

Frejl^n. — ^This  village  takes  its  name  from  the  eftate  of 
Prcfton,  upon  which  it  (lands.  It  formerly  belonged  to  the 
regent  Morton,  and  is  now  the  property  of  Mr  Osvjtald. 
It  is  faid  to  have  been  a  burgh  of  regality,  and  had  the  privi- 
lege of  4  fairs  in  the  year.  A  crofs,  of  about  7  feet  in  heightf 
raifed  on  a  bafe  of  (lone  wall,  about  4  feet  fquare,  is  dill 
Handing.  Nothing  now  remains  of  its  ancient  privileges) 
but  at  this  crofs  poinds  have  lately  been  comprifed.  Some 
years  ago,  this  village  was  inhabited  by  24  farmers  \  at  pre* 
fcnt  there  are  only  3,  witli  their  cottagers* 

Sahernefs. — This  village  ftands  clofe  upon  the  fliore,  due 
fouth  of  the  church.  It  was  built  by  the  late  Richard  Os- 
wald, £fq;  of  Auchencruive,  with  the  view,  it  is  faid,  of  a 
coal  trade.  A  trial  for  coal  was  made  in  its  neighbourhoodg 
but  without  fuccefs.  It  is  now  chiefly  inhabited  by  perfons 
who  keep  furnifhed  rooms,  to  accomodate  fuch  as>  during 
the  feafon,  come  to  it  for  the  baiefit  of  fea  bathing. 

Sea  C^afli  Tower ^  Llme-Jtone^  Sec. — ^The  points  of  land, 
are  Salternefs  and  Borron.  Salterncfs,  from  whence  the  a- 
bove  mentioned  village  takes  its  name,  has  been  confidered 
by  fome  feamen,  notwithilanding  the  charts  now  publiflied 
of  the  South-Eaft,  to  be  the  fouthmoft  point  of  land  in  Scot- 
land. The  name  now  appears  to  be  corrupted.  It  is  faid 
to  have  bceh  originally,  Southwicknffs^  u  e.  the  fouthernwft 
point,  probably  from  a  parifh  in  its  neighbourhood,  called 
Souitwici.  "ijpon  this  nefsf  Or  point  of  land,  a  tower  is  erec- 
ted for  a  land-mark  for  vefTels  on  their  way  along  this  coail. 
A  part  of  it  was  built  many  years  ago,   by  fome  merchaats 


228  StatiJHcat  Account 

m  Dumfries,  then  carrying  on  a  confidcriiblc  trade  with  Vir* 
ginia.  It  was  afterwards  raifcd  to  its  prefent  height,  by  the 
late  Mrs  Oswald  of  Auchcncruivc.  This  tower,  at  prefent, 
is  of  great  advantage  to  the  navigation  of  this  coaft,  and  would 
ftill  be  of  greater  advantage,  were  lights  placed  in  it.  As 
limeftonc  abounds  in  its  neighbourhood,  the  fca,  every  tide, 
wafhing  that  kind  of  rock,  it  is  believed,  that  if  here  a  fmall 
harbour  was  built,  a  confiderable  trade  in  that  line  might  be 
carried  on.  Veflcis  often  come  to  anchor  at  Salternefs,  in 
3  or  4  fathoms,  at  low  water,  in  the  language  of  feamen, 
«  to  Jlop  the  tide.'* 

Bay, — Carsethorn  bay  on  the  eaft  (bore,  and  at  the  mouth 
of  the  river  Nith,  is  confidered  as  a  fafe  anchoring  place. 
Several  palls  of  wood  for  veflels  to  make  faft  to,  have  been 
put  in  the  beach  by  the  town  of  Dumfries,  who  levy  a  |fum 
for  tonage,  from  all  veflek  difcharging  their  cargoes  upon 
this  {hore.  All  veflels  from  Dumfries,  when  meeting  with 
contrary  winds,  anchor  in  this  bay.  Veflels  bound  for  Dum- 
fries frequently  lye  in  the  bay,  until  the  fpring  tides  furhifli 
them  with  water  fufiicient  to  carry  them  up.  Ships  from  the 
Baltic,  laden  with  timber  for  Dumfries,  generally  unload  here, 
as  veficlsi  drawing  ii  or  1 2  feet  water,  cannot  always  with  fafe- 
ty  go  above  this.  There  are  3  fathoms  water  in  tlie  bay,  and 
out  in  the  channel  the  water  rifes  5  fathoms  perpendicular. 

Hides. — ^The  courfes  of  the  tides  arc  as  follows.  Out  of 
the  Nith,  the  tides  run  nigh  fouth  to  the  Borron  point,  for- 
merly mentioned ;  they  then  take  their  courfe  weftward. 
Upon  this  (hore  the  tides  flow  5  hours,  and  ebb  7.  It  is 
high  water  on  the  full  and  change  days  of  the  moon,  at  half 
paft  eleven  o'clock.  Many  fand  banks  ly  off  this  coaft,  and 
fuch  is  the  rapidity  of  the  tides,  that  velTcls  getting  aground 

upon 


o/Kirkbean.  129 

tipon  them,  have  been  up-fet  and  wrecked.  The  flood,  in- 
deed|  is  more  dangerous  than  the  ebo,  as  it  has  been  known 
to  tumble  a  (hip's  anchor  over  and  over.  I,t  is  the  general 
opinion  of  the  inhabitants,  natives  of  the  parifli,  that  this 
frith  is  gradually  (hutting  up.  This  opinion  is  not  founded 
on  tlie  tradition  of  their  fathers  only  ;  it  is  founded  pn  their 
own  obfervations.  ^Jhc  navigation  of  the  frith  they  find  is 
beconaing  daily  more  difficult ;  new  fand-banks  frequently 
appear ;  and,  upon  the  S.  W.  of  the  p^rift,  many  acres  are 
^ow  ejccellent  fait  pafture,  which  not  long  ago  the  tides 
covered,  when  they  confifted  of  (leach  and  fand. 

,  Fijb. — SeveraJ  kinds  of  fi(h  abound  on  this  coaft,  fuch  as 
founders,  (katc,  cod,  foles,  (hrimps,  &c.  Turbot  are  rare. 
It  is  an  obfciyation  of  the  inhabitants,  founded  on  expe- 
rience, that  herrings  frequent  this  coaft  periodically.  About 
6  years  ago,  they  were  found  in  vaft  (hoals ;  from  that  peri- 
od till  lately,  few  could  b^  fecn  5  at  prefent  (1793)  they  every 
where  abound. 

Eccleftafticai  State — ^Thc  sidanfe  vas  built  abo^t  >739, 
and  enlarged  about  1769.  Like  many  public  buildings.of 
this  kind  in  the  country,  it  was  not  fuOlciently  executed  3  .and 
now  the  heritors  propofe  to  give  it  fome  repairs.  The  church 
was  built  in  1776,  and,  in  its  ftrufture,  it  is  elegant,  conve- 
nient, and  fufficient.  The  glebe,  wHch  at  prefent  lies  fe- 
parated,  but  a  part  of  which  is  now  propofed  to  be  exchan- 
ged, confifts  of  about  13  acres.  The  ftipend,  by  decreet  of 
J  ft  February  1650,  is  4  chalderg  of  grain,  -J-  meal  and  y  bear, 
Linlithgow  meafure ;  500I.  Scotch  in  ngioney,  with  50  merks 
for  communion  elements.  The  lj)uke  of  Qneensberry  is  pa- 
tron and  titular. 

Yc^.  XV.  R  S(k69ls 


I3Q  Statijlical  Account 

^  Schools  and  Poor* — ^Thc  parochial  fchool  funds  amount  to 
1008I.  4s.  The  intcreft  of  this  fum  fupports  two  feparatc 
free  fchools  ;  the  one  under  the  direftion  of  the  heritors  and 
minifter,  60 81.  4s.  The  other,  400L  %  The  fchool  fupport- 
cd  by  this  fum,  19  left  to  the  management  of  **  5  honeft,  up- 
"  right  men,  of  good  report  in  the  parifli,  appointed  to  lay 
•*  out  the  capitsj  upon  good  and  fufficient  fecurity  \  and  to 
**  take  care  of  the  fubjeft  \  and  that  the  fchool-mafter  do  his 
"  duty  to  the  children  under  his  care,  by  inftrufting  them 
5*  in  the  principles  of  theProteftant  Reformed  Religion,  and 
5^  to  read  and  write  well ;  and  alfo  good  manners  and  good 
*'  morals." — ^The  parochial  poor'^  funds  amount  to  265I.  he- 
fides  the  weekly  collcftions,  which,  with  the  intcreft  of  this 
fum,  fupport  annually  about  12  perfons  on  the  roll,  and  fup- 
ply  occafionally  the  wants  of  others.  There  has  not  been  a, 
a  beggar  in  the  parifli  in  the  memory  of  man. 

Population, r^h^  there  has  been  no  regular  rcgiftcr  kept  in 
the  parifli,  of  baptifms,  marriages,  or  deaths,  either  before  or 
fince  the  late  Afl  of  Parliament,  impofing  certain  duties  up- 
on each,  therefore,  no  account  of  thefe  can  now  be  given. 
I'he  following  is  the  prefent  ftate  of  the  population,  and  the 
number  of  diffenters  and  mechanics  in  the  parifli. 

Population  table  oe  the  parish  of  Kirkbean. 
No  of  fouls  in  1 793         -  -  -  660 

Do  in  1755,  as  returned  to  Dr  Webftey  -  529 

Increafe,  131 

Ages, 
\  This  Uft  fttoci  was  a  donation  of  the  Ute  Mr  Andrew  Marshall, 
merchant  in  Glsi%ow.  He  firft  gave  300].  and  afterwards,  at  his  death,  left 
xocL  being,  as  it  is  expreiTed  by  himfelf,  in  the  deed  of  his  firft  donation, 
V  Freely  and  cheerfully  given,  I  think,  for  the  heft  purpofes,  namely,  the 
^  farther  promoting  of  genuine  Chriftian  knowledge,  trtic  piety  and  Tirtue 
<(  towirdt  God,  and  uprightnefi  towards  all  men.*' 


o/  kirkbcati. 


.131 


AcKSj  Sczts,  &c. 

RltlCIOUl  Pf  RSUISIONS. 

Ko.  of  fouli  under  8  years 

Mcmbertofthe  ^flabliflied 

of  age 

- 

J70 

Chorch  » 

- 

650 

— ^  above  that  age 

490 

Roman  Catholics 

• 

•    3 

-—Males 

314 

Antibnrghers 

- 

3 

346 

,£pifcopalians 

- 

3 

130 

Quaker 

, 

- 

i 

^«—  Houfes  inhabited  by 

ODC 

perfon  only 

- 

14 

660 

MCCtlANlCS. 

Mafi 

ert. 

Appreniices. 

yoMmeymtn* 

rof«/. 

No.  of  joiners 

3 

- 

^     3 

— Mafons 

3 

-. 

.     - 

3 

— Slaters 

M 

- 

- 

I 

—•Tailors 

4 

2 

^- 

- 

6 

— Shpe-makers 

4 

2 

2 

8 

— Bhck-fmiths 

2 

- 

I 

- 

3 

-Stocking-weavers 

6 

-     .       I 

- 

7 

^^eam^n 

4 

- 

- 

4 

^-^Revenue  do. 

• 

. 

8 

8 

In  alii        43 

BiJUngu't/bed  Men. — ^Thc  late  Admiral  John  Campbell 
uras  the  fon  of  the  Rev.  Mr  John  Campbell,  for  fome  time 
iflinifter  of  this  parifti.  He  was  born  in  the  manfe  of  Kirk- 
bean,  6th  Februhiy  1719.  Theaecount  of  his  life,  lately 
})ubli(hed  in  a  London  Magazine,  \&  in  many  circumftance^ 
erroneous. — ^John  PauLj  who  fome  years  ago,  took  the 
name  of  John  Paul  Johns*  (for  what  reaibn  let  the  world 


•  Sonic  famUics  attend  a  RtLiir  meetIng>hoQfe  in  the  neighbouring  pi* 
riih ;  but  as  this  fociety  was  lately  eftablifted  in  this  part  of  the  coutitry,  anct 
as  none  of  thofe  who  attend  it  fay  they  have  renounced  the  eftabUttel 
cknrch,  therefore  their  sumber  cannot  be  tt  prefent  aii:er»^n<d; 


132  ►  Statijlical  Account 

judge,)  was  the  fon  of  John  Paul,  a  gardener  by  trade.  He  - 
was  born  in  Kirkbean,  about  the  year  1745.  Of  this  pcr- 
foh's  charafter,  this  j^txOti  caniiot  boaft.  His  pilla^.  of  thip 
hdufc  of  the  Earl  of  Seikifk  j  his  attempts  to  burn  the  toswii 
of  Whitehaven,  out  of  whofe  hatbour  he  had  ferved  his  ap- 
prenticc-(hip,  and  his  conduct  to  his  native  country,  during 
the  American  war,  are  in  fiances  of  higratitude  and  want  of 
patriotifm,.g2nerally  known,  and  over  which,  for  the  honour 
of  humanity,  we  would  with  to  draw  a  veil. 

•  Antiquities, — The  caflles  of  Cavens,  and.  IVeathiy  a  part 

orily  of  each  now  ftanding,  were  once  the  property  of  the 

Regent  Morton *f2Xi6,  by  him  frequently  inhabited^._  The 

wfiolc  of  that  barony,  Excepting  two  farms,  is  no3fr  the  pjro- 

peirty  of  Rich'ard  Alexander  Ofwald,  Efq;  of  Auch<;)icruive,  ' 

wtd,  while  O'ccafionally  in  thi^  part  of  the  country,  tefides 

at  the  caftle  of  Cavefls.     Upon  the  >J.  W.  on  th^foffm  of 

Ardrie,  at  the  foot  of  that  ridge  of  hills  formerly  meptioa^^ 

wRtch"  terminates  in  Crofell,  there  is  «  Druidical  circle  ftill 

entire  f  • 

J  Advantages 

'  .  •* 

''  Upon  his  fbrfeJtdre,  thefe  csrftlen,  Witl^  the  bai6ny  6f  PreiloD,.upon 
<«trhfch  they  ft«nd,  were  granted  to  the  fsmniljr  of  N^rusDA^E,  o&e  of  whom 
gtvc  to  a  fecond  ion  tfto  chief  pare  of  thu  Barony,  and  fewed  out  the  reft. 

•  f  4^1  a  iictVe  didance  to  the  eaft  of  this,  there  ivas  lately  diicovc^ed  » 
K'ji  wuMf  or  ftone  coffin,  in  which  was* found  an  urn.  Th;  fides  and  ends 
of  It  were  built  wiri\  ^all  flones,  and  covered  with  thin  broad  ones.  The 
il^nes  ate  fiiH  in  ufeful  prefcnration ;  they  make  ar  part  of  a  divifion  dyke, 
upon  the  farm.  To  the  foath  of  this,  another  was  found,  but  of  its  conftruc- 
tioD  the  writer  has  not  yet  been  informed.  In  the  centre  of  the  parilh,  nigh 
the  public  road,  flood  a  Druidical  temple,  which  was  lately  deflroycd,  for  the 
pvrpofe  of  clearing  the  ground,  and  building  farm  houfes.  Several  urns  hai^e 
been  turned  up  by  the  plough.  One  was  found  in  the  foundation  of  the  pr^- 
lent  manfe. 


ofKirkhean.'  ^35 

jidvaniages  and  Difadvatitages^ — From  the  natural  fitua- 
tion  of  the  parifti — -the  extent  of  fca  coaft,  upon  which  there 
is  plenty  of  fleach  and  fbmc  fea  Weed,  with  the  bays  and  har- 
bours formerly  mentioned,  it  muft  poflcfs  many  advantages- 
No  farmer  in  the  paiifh  is  above  two  miles  diftant  from  the 
haibcur,  where  he  can  ftiip  the  produce  of  his  farm,  and  re- 
ceive the  higheft  prices  given  in  the  country.-  The  want  of 
fuel^is  the  only  difadvantage  under  which  this  pari fh  labours. 
Coal  brouglit  from  Cumberland,  in  the  north  of  England,  is  ' 
the  common  fuel,  which,  to  the  farmer,  and  more  particularly 
to  the  labourer  and  the  indigent,  is  a  very  grievous  expcnce. 
This,  liowevcr,'  in  Ibme  meafure  has  been  Icflened,  by  the 
the  late  repcarof  the  duty  u^on  coal  carried  coaft- ways,  for 
which  this  parifh,  in  particular,  is  much  indebted  to  the 
the  right  honourable  Henry  Dundas. 

CharaFfer  of  the  InhdhitanU, — A  confiderable  number  of 
the  inhabitants  of  different  ranks  and  conditions  of  life,  ard 
induftrious,  fober,  aflive,  and  charitable.  In  their  religious 
fentiments,  they  are  rational  and  liberal,  and,  in  their  political 
opinions,  they  are  manly  and  loyal.  As  a  proof  of  their 
loyalty  to  his  Majefty,  and  their  attachment  to  the  prcfent 
form  of  government,  they  have  already  fubfcribed  lol.  txi 
be  applied  in  furnifhing  with  (hoes,  made  in  the  parifh,  dieir 
brave  and  gallant  coruntrymen  now  on  the  continent,  *•  fup- 
**  porting  order,  regular  government,  true  liberty  and  reli- 
**  gion.*'  It  is  expelled  that  a  very  liberal  fubfcription  will 
foon  appear. 


l^tJMBER 


134  Statiflical  Account 

NUMBER    IX. 
PARISH   OF  St.  FERGUS, 


(County  of  Banff,  Synod  of  Aberdeen,  and  Presbyteky 
OF  Deer.) 


By  the  Rev.  Mr  John  Craigib,  Minister. 


Name^  Skuatioriy  and  Extent. 

HIS  parifli  was  anciently  named  InverugU^  and  often 

Longley^  the  church  being  fituated  not  far  from  the  old  placfj 

of  Invcrugie;  on  thofe  pleafant  and  cxtenfive  downs  called 

the  Link  of  St- Fergus,      The  church  was  removed  from  this 

fite  anno  1616,  when  the  church  and  pari{h  aifumed   the 

name  of  its  patron  faint,  to  whom  the  17th  of  November, 

according  to  the  Scotch  callendar,  was  facred.     This  parifta, 

though  it  belongs  to  the  county  of  Banff ^  is  fituated  in  that 

di(tri£t  of  Aberdeen^  called  Buchan,  *    The  coaft  is  wa.flied 

on 

*  The  male  line  of  the  oU  Bails  of  Buchan,  to  whom  this  country  orI'<^ 
ginaUy  belonged,  failing  in  the  perfon  of  Fc&oos,  the  laft  Earl  of  the  ancient 
nce»  hii  only  daughter  married  Wiluak  Cumins  of  the  family  of  Bade- 

Cocb, 


vf  St.  Fergus.  135 

on  the  Eaft  by  the  German  Ocean,  and  on  the  South,  by 
the  fmall  river  of  Ugie^  which  feparates  it  from  the  parifli  of 
Peterhead :  The  extent  is  as  under : 

Acres. 

iioch»  ^'ho  in  ber  right  became  Earl  of  Bachan^  about  the  lieginning  of  the 
13th  Century.  The  pariih  of  St  Fergus,  and  fome  other  fmall  cftate?,  fccm  to 
have  been  given  off  by  the  ancient  Earls,  but  there  ftill  remained  an  im- 
menfe  eftate,  fitaated  in  BanlPand  Aberdeen  Ibircs^  to  whidi  WiUumC«n- 
ine  fugce«ded  by  his  marriage* 

The  Cuminea  continued  to  enjoy  their  yaft  fortune  until  the  year  ijoS. 
This  name,  then  one  of  the  moft  poweiful  in  Scotland,  -violently  oppofed  the 
focccfiion  of  King  Rot  tar  Baucc  to  the  Crown,  but  were  completely  over, 
thrown  by  him  at  Inveniry.  The  king,  according  to  Foeduv,  pnrfued  the 
Cumines  as  far  as  Fyvie,  where,  baring  difperfed  them,  he  encamped  for 
for  fome  time,  entil  the  parties  which  he  fent  out  had  burnt  the  Earl  of  Bu- 
chan*s  eftate.  In  the  Parliament  holden  at  Perth,  anno  1320,  the  King  di- 
vided the  Earl's  lands  ^mong  his  own  friends.  Tn  the  family  of  Bouglas 
he  gave  the  greateft  part  of  the  parifhes  of  Crimond  and  Longmay,  and  a 
part  of  theparilhesofYyrie  and  Abcrdour.  This  appears  from  a  charter, 
which  AacHTBALn  the  20th  Lord  DoycLAs  obtained  from  King  Robert, 
**  Dileffo  rt  JlJeli  ti&/ir9,  AacBlBALOO  db  Dov gi» a 5,  ftro  iomagh  fi  fervith 
<*  ftto"  of  the  lands  of  Rothfay,  drimond  and  Cairnglafi,  &c/  in  Buchan. 
Upon  the  family  of  CaAwroan  he  beftowcd  the  barony  of  Kelly,  com- 
prehending part  of  the  pariflies  of  Tarvei,  New-Dccr,  Old-Doer  and  Long. 
fide,  Thefe  lands  reverted  to  the  Crown  by  the  forfeiture  of  Alwxandek 
Earl  of  CaAwroan,  and  a  confiderable  part  of  them  was  bcftowed  by  King 
James  H.  on  jAurs  GaanoN  of  Methlic,  Ancefior  of  the  Earl  of  Aberdeen, 
{Ciarimh  ^^mrtiiv.)  King  Robbat  gave  to  the  family  of  EaaoL  the 
HEui flies  of  Cruden,  Slaxns,  and  part  of  the  paiiihes  of  Logie,  EUon,  and 
Udney.  To  the  Mabiscbal  family  h^  gave  the  pariih  of  Peterhead,  part  of 
^ongfide  and  Old-Deer,  the  lands  of  Anchines  in  the  pariih  of  Rathcn,  Pit- 
tendrum  in  Pitiligo  pariih,  and  Troup,  in  the  pariih  of  Gamrie.  Joav 
Cum  1  KB,  the  fourth  Earl  of  Buchan  of  that  name,  had,  before  his  forfeiture 
and  out-lawry  by  King  Robert,  given  the  barony  of  Philorth  in  portion 
with  his  daughter  MABGAmBT,  who  was  married  to  Sir  Jobn  Ross,  fccond 
(on  of  the  Eail  of  Ross,  who  difponed  theic  lands  to  Hugh  Earl  of  Rof^,  hfs 
brother,  by  a  charter,  dated  at  Invernefs  13  i6u  This  barony  was  then  of  great 
Cftenf,  comptelmding  tl^e  pariih  cf  Frafersburgh,  moil  pare  of  Tyrie^  Aber- 

dour. 


j^&  Statyiical  Account 


• 

Acres. 

AraWe  ground        -           r        - 

4439 

■   3' 

Links,  arable,  but  not  allowed  to  be  plowed, 

435 

50 

Mofe 

795 

52 

Soil  and  Surface. — The  foil  In  general  is  a  rich  clay,  and 
when  properly  ci^ltivated  is  abundantly  fertile.  The  appear- 
ance of  the  pari^i  is  ao  alternate  fucccQiQiii  of  little  rifing 
grounds  and  valleys,  but  no  moor  or  barren  ground,  llie 
piece  of  groun4  called /^/ Xfr/zib  of  Su  Fergus y  is  perhaps 
one  of  the  mod  pleafant  plains  in  Scotland,  extending  along 

the 

donr,  Pitiligo,  and  Rathen,  (which  laft  comprehends  the  greateft  part 
of  Strichen  paiilh,)  together  with  fcvcral  lands  in  the  pari(hes  of  Turriff 
and  King.Edward.  This,  together  with  the  whole  cftate  of  Rofs,  was  en- 
tailed by  William  Earl  of  Ross,  on  his  cideft  daughter  Eupham,  who  was 
married  to  Sir  Walter  Leslie,  and  the  heirs  of  her  body;  whom  failing, 
to-  Janet  hisfecoad  daughter,  who  was  married  to  Sir  Alexander  FrasIlR 
of  Cowie,  ancedor  of  Lord  Salton.  By  this  marriage  Sir  Alexander 
Fr AS ER  got  this  barony,  a  confiderable  part  of  which  continues  to  be  the 
property  of  Lord  SLilton, 

A  part  of  the  ancieat  Earldom  of  Buchast  was  fitoatediD  die  Thaocdom 
«f  Formartine,  which  is  that  diftrid  of  Aberdecnfliire,  that  is  bonndcd  by  the 
river  Don  on  the  South,  and  the  Ythan  on  the  North.  Tliis  part  of  the 
Earl  of  Buchan's  property  remained  with  the  Ctown,  aotil  David  K. 
gare  it  to  his  brother  in  law  Willyam,  the  5th  Earl  of  Sutherland^  as 
•ppears  by  a  charter  of  that  King,  dated  at  Dtmdee,  30th  July,  1366. 
7otam  illan  — ^—  thaaagii  futfiri  de  FwmartitUy  cvm  fertintntibutf  jaum, 
M  viee-comitMtu  de  Aberdeen^  l^e.  Thereafter  the  Earl  dilpofcd  of  thefc  lands 
to  William,  eldcft  fon  of  Williain,  the  4th  Eari  of  Orkney,  as  appears  by 
an  mfeftment  prodsced  in  Parliament,  given  by  James  11.  DUeS*  amfcM* 
guheofuffy  GuVirlmo  de  San^o»Chro,fiU  ISf  b4tredt  appartnt't  eiimiiu  Oreada  $5*  Ca* 
t/janU,  of  the  land  and  barony  of  Newburgh,  and  fevera!  others  in  Aberdecn- 
fliire, together  with  the  r;tImon  fifliing  on  Ythan,  i6th  March  1459,  {^^ccrJs 
if  Parliament  )  This  William  wa«  progenitor  01  Lord 'Sinclair,  whefe 
family  enjoyed  thefc  lands  for  200  years,  and  then  difpofed  of  them  to  Udajf 
of  tiiat  ilk,  Turin  of  Fovcran,  and  others. 


DfSt.  fergui.  13^ 

the  coaft  Several  miled^  but  of  unequal  bre^dtti.  It  produces 
abundance  of  (hon  fwcct  grafs,  white  clover,  wild  thyme^ 
and  other  herbs,  which  are  thought  to  contttbute  much  to 
that  delicacy  and  fine  flavour,  for  which  the  mutton  fed  u« 
pon  them  is  remavlcable.  Between  the  links  and  the  fei 
there  is  a  raAgc  of  Jittk  hills,  ihoftly  clay,  all  covered  with 
bent,  which,  as  it  is  carefully  preferved,  is  ftill  encreafingi 
and  proves  an  excellent  defence  againft  the  blOMring  of  the 
fand,  which,  on  a  low  (bore,  wid\oUt  fuch  a  banier,  would 
do  very  material  damage  fo  the  pafture  ground  of  Ae  links^ 
and  alfo  to  the  adjacent  fields. 

Sea  Coafty  Minerals^  fafr. — ^The  fljore  in  the  parifli  of  Sh 
Fergus  forms  two  fegments  of  a  circle  ;  the  one,  beginning 
dt  the  mouth  of  the  Ugie,  terminates  at  the  Scotftown  Craig^ 
and  the  other  reaches  from  this  Craig  to  Rattray«-head>  the 
property  of  Mr  Harvey  of  Broadland*  The  rocks  both  at 
Rattray  and  Scotftown  afford  plenty  of  lime-ftonci  which  at 
low  water  is  eafily  quarried.  At  Scotftown  as  well  as  at  Craig^fc 
£wan,  hard  by  the  mouth  of  the  Ugie,  there  is  abundance 
of  excelletit  granite  ;  and,  all  along  the  coaft,  an  iiiexhaiifti'^ 
ble  quantity  6f  fiielb,  which  are  noW  ufed  as  manure 
with  great  advantage.  From  thefe  two  rocks  of  Ctaig- 
Ewan  and  Scotftown^  a  very  trifling  quantity  of  kelp  is  mwii 
every  fecond  year. 

Fybery^  Pnfriet^r,  %  ?5*£*i— All  kinds  of  fifli,  foiiiid  on  thd  1L 

coaft  of  Scotland,  are  caught  here  iii  great  abundance,  fuch 

Vol.  XV.  S  '  as 

{  The  proprietor,  upwards  of  4o  years  ago,  attempted  to  cilallifh  a  ^* 
xng  town  in  this  parifli ;  and  if  there  were  a  proper  landing  place  for  th^ 
boats,  it  would  be  an  excellent  Aatlon  for  fifliers,  being  fo  near  to  Rattray* 
bead,  which  has  long  been  eftcemed  the  very  beft  fiihing  ground  fftr  cod  mi 
ling. 


ijS  StatiJiicalJccdunt 

2&  ling,  fkate,  fiounderS)  cod»  haddocks,  crabs,  lobfters,  £rc» 
Mr  Ferguson  of  Pitfour,  the  fole  proprietor  of  this  pariih^ 
has  the  falmon  fiChing  in  the^Ugie,  for  which  he  receives 
icol- Sterling  yearly  rch^  from  Mcffrs  Arbuthnot  in  Peterhead** 
The  quantity  of  falmon  taken  here  in  a  feafon,  has  fome- 
times  exceeded  12  oo  barrels  \  but  in  one  feafon,  they  only  a- 
mounted  |o  14  barrels  and  a  half.  It  very  often  happens,  that' 
the  mouth  of  the  river  is  almoft  Ihut  up,  by  large  quantides 
of  fca  weeds,  fo  that  the  falmon  cannot  eiiter  tt ;  and  this  ob* 
(lade  generally  remains  until  the  fea  weeds  are  carried  off  by 
a  land  flood. 

Ligkt'Hoii/e  lind  Canal propofed, — Tt  is  the  opinion  of  (hip- 
mafters,  who  fail  along  this  coaft,  that  a  light-houfe  on  Rat-^ 
tray-hcid  is  highly  ncceflary.  \Vithin  the  (aft  twenty  years, 
feveral  veflels  with  their  cargoes  have  been  daflicd  to  pieces 
on  tlie  rocks  of  Rattray  and  Scot-flown,  wtich  would  have 
been  faved,  had  there  been  a  light-houfe  at  llattray-h6ad-  A 
canal  might  alfo  be  made  at  ^  fmall  expence,  from  the  mouth 
of  the  Ugie,  along  the  fouth  fide  of  this  parifli,  and  might 
be  extended  to  the  diftance  of  feveral  miles  through  the 
country  weftward. 

Agficuhuft.  I' — No  fown  grafs  or  grecri  crops  were  pro-. 
duced  hercj  iintil  the  proprietor,  and  fome  other  gentlemen, 

formed 

\  About  25  ye^s  agb,  a  moft  eteerkble  mbde  of  farmiog  Vai  pradifed 
in  this  parifli.  Four,  and  often  fa,  horfcs  dragged  after  them  the  old  Scotch 
ploughs.  As  there  were  at  that  time  but  few  black  cattle  or  (hecp,  the  only 
manure  was  the  dung  of  the  horfbs,  exceptiog  that  a  few  farmers  in  the  S.  £. 
part  of  the  parifli,  laid  fet->wecd  on  their  grounds ;  the  firft  crop  after  the 
doDg,  or  fea-wecd,  was  bear,  which  ^as  fucceeded  by  two  crops  of  oats,  and 
'ft  trop  of  beans  or  peaTc,  and  this  Was  followed  by  a  crop  of  bear,  fometimcs 
withoat  fea»wccd  or  dubg.  This  was  the  manner  of  treating  the  in-field. 
Tlie  wt'fdi^  that  is  the  gronad  which  had  never  any  manure  laid  upon  it^ 

carried 


of  St.  Fergus-  139 

formed  a  fociety  for  encouraging  agriculture,  and  gave  pre- 
miums for  fallow,  fown  grafs,'  and  turnips.  By  this  encourage- 
ment, and  by  obferving  the  great  advantage  that  accrued  from 
early  grafs,  hay,  and  green  crops,  the  farmers  were  induced  to 
fallow,  fow  turnips,  and  lay  down  their  fields  in  grafs  5  and  at 
prefent,  fome  of  them  have  generally  one  third  of  their  farm 
in  grafs,  and  a  very  confiderable  number  of  cattle  are  every  year 
fed  on  turnips.  Although  improvements  in  agriculture  have 
made  but  little  progrcfs,  as  yet,  in  this  pariffi,  it  is  a  curious 
faS,  ^hat  until  the  greatcft  part  of  the  leafes  were  expired, 
there  was  nothing  done  in  that  way.  This  is  chiefly  owing 
to  a  well-placed  confidence  in  the  proprietor,  who  has  never 
yet  ejefted  a  tenant,  although  many  of  thenfi  have  had  no 
leafes  for  upwards  of  20  years.  Many  offers  of  an  increafe 
of  rent  have  been  made  for  every  farm,  as  foon  as  the  leafc 
expired  j  but  tlie  poflcfibrs,  or  their  heira,  if  they  inclined  to 
remain,  have  been  allowed  to  continue  in  their  farms,  and 
no  rife  of  rent  has  been  exafted.  The  proprietor,  wifely  judg- 
ing that  improvement  fliould  precede  a  rife  of  rent,  has  been 
at  great  pains  to  lead  them  to  better  management ;  and  al- 
though the  encouragement  given  has  not  had  all  the  ttkfk 

that 

carried  oats  for  three  or  four  fears.  .  The  fourth  year,  the  retom  feldom 
doubled  (he  quantity  of  feed  that  had  beeo  fowo.  The  fifth  year,  they  fallow- 
cd  the  out- field,  but  g^ve  no  xnanare  of  any  kind ;  and  the  fixtb  year  they  had 
a  tolerable  crop  of  oats.  The  ground  was  then  allowed  to  reft  for  fome 
years,  and  it  was  feldom  before  the  4th  year,  that  it  got  a  green  fuiface.  It 
no  fooner  had  this  appearance,  than  it  got  on«  plowing  in  winter,  and  was 
fuffered  to  remain  in  that  ftate  for  a  year,  and  then  bad  a  fecond  plowine* 
and  was  fown  with  oats.  If  there  was  any  part  of  the  field,  that  had  not 
undergone  the  firft  plowing,  the  farface  was  dug  up  with  the  fpade,  and 
therewith  dykes  were  made  of  A  or  3  feet  in  height,'  which  having  been  ez» 
pofcd  to  the  winter  froft  and  rain,  were  in  fpring  polled  down  and  fpread 
(npon  the  ground,  from  which  the  furface  had  been  taken.  This  ground  wa^ 
then  plowed,  and  feldom  failed  to  prndi^ce  one  good  crop  of  oats. 


i4^  Statyiical  Account 

that  might  have  been  expefled,  the  mode  of  fanning  is  much 
changed.  Inftead  pf  6  horfcs  in  a  plough,  they  never  ufc 
more  than  4,  and  piany  ufe  only  2|  without  a  driver.  Some 
plow  with  6  oxen,  fbme  with  4,  and  fome  with  2  ;  but  the 
Jiorfes  and  oxen  are  of  a  much  larger  Gze  than  forraerlyi  and 
th^  Berwickrfhire  ploifgh  i$  now  generally  ufed. 

Produce^  Sgafonsy  &c.-^The  crops  now  raifed  arc  oats, 
weighing  from  1 4  to  16  (lone,  Amllerdam  weight  *,  bear  from 
17  to  19  (Iqne  \  beans,  peafe,  turnips^  pots^toes,  and  a  little 
flax.  The  feafon  of  fowirig  is  from  the  latter  end  of  March 
%o  the  beginning  of  June ;  and  the  haryeft  commonly  begins 
^fter  the  middle  of  September,  and  is  AniQied  about  the  end 
pf  Odober-  The  rotation  of  crops,  followed  by  thp  heft  far- 
mers, is  turnips  or  fallow,  bear  laid  down  with  grafs  feed$, 
and  after  3  or  4  years  in  grafs,  two  crops  of  oats  are 
taken.  If,  after  this,  the  ground  is  clean,  beans  are  fown,  but 
if  otherwife,  turnips  or  potatoes,  and  then  bear  and  grafs  feeds. 
Wheat  has  beei^  negleded,  although  it  is  well  adapted  to  the 
foil ;  but  as  the  heritor  has  kept  fome  good  farms  in  his  own 
hand,  (when  the  tenants  have  died,  or  removed  of  their  own 
ftccord,)  to  accommodate  farmers  from  thofe  countries  where 
wheat  is  cultivated,  it  Is  to  be  hoped,  that  this  grain  will  in 
a  few  years  make  a  principal  part  oi  the  crop  of  tliis  parifh. 
The  grcateft  part  of  the  foil  here  being  a  ftrong  clay,  and 
^U  of  it  on  a  rich  clay  bottom,  it  is  clear,  that  the  carfe 
mode  of  plowing  and  cropping  would  fucceed  well  here. 
When  this  mode  is  introduced,  the  true  valine  of  this  foi| 
will  be  known. 

Farm  Rents  apd  hnprovemmts, — ^The  tenants  being  nu- 

^nerous,  the  rents  are  various.  Some  pay  90 1.  in  money  and 

^rain  \  and  fome  2I.  or  perhaps  even  Icfs*    Every  man  who  has 


of  St  Fergus.  141 

m  liorfe  has  alfo  a  cart.  Some  ufe  no  horfesj  but  do  all  kinds  of 
fann  woik  with  oxen.  One  farmer^  James  Clarke  in  Ne- 
cher-hill,  ufes  o^^en  for  his  threfliing  machine/  which  is  the 
only  thing  of  the  kind,  that  has  as  yet  been  introdi^ccd  in  this 
part  of  the  country.  It  is  to  this  induftrious  honeft  man»  that 
we  are  indebted  ior  introducing  the  (hell  fand  as  a  manurej 
which  now  turns  out  to  fo  great  account,  that  many  acres^ 
which  would  not  formerly  have^  produced  double  the  quanti- 
ty of  the  feed,  now  produce  weighty  crops  both  pf  grain  and 
hay.  ,  I 

Exports^ — ^This  parifh  always  produces  more  grain  than 
is  fufEcient  for  the  fupport  of  its  inhabitants  \  and  even  in 
the  year  1782,  had  the  produce  been  kept  witliin  the  parifh, 
there  would  have  been  no  need  of  any  foreign  fopply.  About 
1600  bolls  of  grain  are  exported  annually}  butter  and 
cheefc  to  the  value  of  600 1.  Sterling  ;  fat  cattle,  hoxfes, 

i  '  and  flieep,  to  a  confiderable  amount  \  and  a  fmall  quantity  of 

!  hay  and  potatoes. 

*  Pcpu/atioft. i^^Thc  population  of  this  parifh  is  fomewhat 

j  '  lefs  than  it  was  40  years  ago.     The  following  table  fhows 

the  decreafci  as  well  as  the  ages,  pirofeffions,  &c.  of  the  in- 
habitants. 

Statistical  Table  of  the  parish  of  St  Fergus. 

No.  of  Cbult  in  i;ii,  as  recwoed  to  Dr 

Wcbftcr,  1 17 1 

pitto  in  1775,  •  -  1*54    Dccreafc,  17 

Ditto  in  1793,  •  •  1240     Ditto  14 

Total  decreafe  within  46  yean,  3 1 

Agi8,  Sizxf,  BiETHt,  &c*  No.  ofpcrfoQsbetween  50  and  70,272 

Ko  of  perfons  under  10  years  of  Aged  70'aad  upwards,      an 

age,  -  -  108    No.  of  males,  -  559 

w         Between  xo  and  ao  230   -Females,  -  6S1 

■  '  ■  .' '    .'  '    .'»» jjo  and  50  409  — ^ 

Majority  of  females,  i%% 

No. 


142 


Statijlical  Account 


Annual  average  of  birthi  f ,  for  7 

years  preceding  Odober  179a,     »8 

Ditto  of  marriagef,  8 

Ditto  of  deaths,                -  aa 

Conditions,  FaorESsioNs,  &c. 

No.  of  proprietors,               -  l 

-p—  Minifters,          -  | 

»          School-matters,  I 

— —  FarmeMi              •  |Sl 

^'         Shop-kef  pcrs,              -  » 

— —  Wcavcrt,              -  43 

'     ■     Smiths,                   -  7 

■            Wrights  and  Coopers,  la 

y         Shoe-makers,  5 

^ Tailon,                -  5 

MafoQs,                    -  3 

— ^—  Inn-keepers,            -  % 

MiUers,               -  6 

Stock,  I^ents,  &c. 
Ko  of  Horfcs,               -  165 
Black  Cattle,.  785 

—  Sheep,               -  908 
MiUs,               -  3 

—  Ploughs^               -  70 


Valned  rent  in  Scotch  mo- 
ney,      .      -         .       L.  300a  o  o 
Waqes  §. 
A  man  fervant,  per  annum,  when 

maii)tained|,  from  L.  6  to  L.  8  o  o 
A  woman  ditto  from  L  3,  to  4  0  o 
A  reaper  in  harveft,  with  main- 

tainaace  -  150 

Ditto  when  hired  per  day,  xod  or  i  o 
A  female  ditto,  per  feafon,  100 
Ditto  per  day,  from  6d  to  008 

A  Wright  per  day,  maintained, 

from  8d  to  010 

A  tailor,  ditto  006 

A  mafon,  without  mointaioance, 

from  is.  8d.  to  o  1 10 

A  day  labourer  with  meat  006 
Ditto  without  it,  9d  or  00  to 

Rt LI oioirs  Persuasions. 
Members   of    the   Eftabliihed 

Church,  -  1145 

Antiburgher  Seceders,  aj[ 

Scotch  Epifcopalians,  •  70 


HianufaElurers. — ^Thc  bleach-field  at  Tnvcrngie,  belonging 

to  Meffirs  Forbes,  Scott,  and  Co.  employs  a  good  many 

hands.    There  is  every  apparatus  for  bleaching  thread  ;  and 

'  *  the 

f  Alezanber  ANnERSON,  miUer  at  Inverugie,  aged  to,  has  40  grand- 
children, all  under  20  years  of  age. 

5  The  prices  of  provifions  aie  the  fame  here  as  at  Peterhead. 

I  "When  the  man  fcrvant  lives  out  of  the  family,  he  has,  befides  the  above 
wages,  6  boUs  and  a  half  of  meal,  at  8  ftone  per  boll  Amfterdam  weight,  and 
I  boll  ten  pecks  of  malt,  ALerdcen-fliire  meafurc  with  veptablcs.   • 


tf  St.  Fergus.  i43 

Ae  value  of  the  thread  >j^hitened  here  annually,  is  about 
^ooo  1.  Sterling. — A  confidcrable  quantity  of  linen  yarn  is 
fpun  in  this  parifti,  by  which  a  woman  can  earn  aT)out  4d. 
per  day. — The  weavers  here  are  kept  in  employment  by 
ti'orking  for  Meffrs  Kilgoiirs,  woollen.manufa£iarcrsiitKin«^ 
mundy,  in  the  parifh  of  Longfide,  and  Alexander  Dalgatno 
and  Co  Peterhead.  The  beer  and  porter  brewery  at  Inveru- 
gie  is  carried  on  by  Mr  Seller  with  fuccefs;,and  a  diftiliery  . 
of  whiiky,  by  William  Lillic,  and  Co.  at  the  feme  places 
turns  to  good  acount. 

Dtftijfcs. — The  fmall-pox  carried  off  great  numbers  for- 
merly ;  but  as  inoculation  is  now  become  general,  this  dIfeaCd 
is  lefs  fStal.  The  fcufvy,  with  which  many  people  hex'e 
were  affedled,  is  not.fo  general,  owing  j>crhap8  to  the  more 
iiberal  ufc  of  vegetables.  Fevers,  and  often  confumptionsj 
prove  fatal  in  this  and  the  neighbouring  pariihes ;  btit  the 
mod  tefrible  difeafe^  that  has  been  known  in  this  part  of  the 
country  for  a  century,  is  the  putrid  fore  throat,  which  was 
not  known  here  before  December  1790.  The  number  of 
deaths  were  more  than  double  that  year,  owing  to  ravages 
made  by  this  difeafe. 

Language  and  Etymologies. — The  dialedl  called  broad  Bii- 
chans  is  fpoken  here.  It  is  thought  to  approach  nearer  to 
the  ancient  GMc^  than  the  language  of  any  other  diftrict  iii 
Scotland.  As  the  Pids  were  the  antient  inhabitants  of  the 
£aft  coaft  of  Scotland,  they  Impofed  names  on  the  different 
places,  expreflive,  (in  their  language,)  of  their  fituation  or 
fome  particular  property.  It  is  not  eafy  to  aiCgn  any  good 
reafon,  for  attempting  to  derive  the  names  of  places  in  this 
country  from  the  Ceitici  as  there  is  no  evidence,  that  it  was 
inhabited  by  the  Celta.   The  names  of  all  the  plaCes  in  this 

pariQi 


144  Statijlical  Account 

pariQi,  and  the  adjacent  country,  plainly  appear  to  be  Go-* 
thicy  Saxon,  or  Danifb.  For  example,  Sotah-effie^  Middle-effie^ 
and  Horth-effie^  fignify  the  South,  Middle,  and  North  paflure, 
or  feeding  place,  from  the  Teutonic  Efjeny  to  feed.  Pittin* 
beatby  compounded  of  the  Saxon  P/V,  and  Heathy  the  name 
of  a  well  known  flirub.  Piijhur,  the  hollow  trench  5  Pitjligo^ 
anciently  PUJligachy  the  ilaughter  hollow.  Crudffi,  was  cer- 
tainly a  part  of  the  ancient  Cruihenicaj  or  Piftifli  kingdom, 
fo  called  ftom  Crutheti  the  jBrft  king  of  the  Pi£ls.  Deerj  the 
name  of  a  neighbouring  parifli,  (ignifies  a  valley^  and  is  very 
expreffive  of  the  fituation  of  that  place.  Broadland^  the  land 
of  bread*  Crimond^  anciently  Creichmonty  the  low  or  little 
mount.    LoMmay,  anciently  Lottgmay,  the  long  green,  Src. 

Woods. — At  prefent  there  is  no  wood  in  the  parifti,  ex- 
cept a  few  old  planes  at  Inverugie.  J  The  proprietor  has 
paid  much  attention  to  the  raiCng  of  wood  on  his  other  eftates^ 
particularly  in  the  pariflies  of  Deer  and  Longfide,  where  he 
has  planted  940  Englifh  acres.  They  were  all  planted  with 
Scotch  firs,  which  fuccceded  in  about  one  fourth  of  the  whole, 
and  that  part  has  been  filled  up  wnth  barren  timber  of  dif* 
fcrent  kinds.  Where  the  Scotch  firs  have  failed,  the  larch 
and  frtruce  have  come  forward  ;  and  it  feems  probable,  that 

by 

\  There  is  clear  evidence,  that,  at  fome  former  period,  a  g^eat  part  cf 
this  pariOt  hps  bceii  covered  with  wood,  chiefly  oak,  aller,  birch,  haeel,  anil 
willow,  the  remains  of  aU  which  are  found  in  the  mofiefl.  No  roots  or  trees 
however,  of  the  Scotch  fir  have  been  found,  which  fhows  that  this  kind  of 
Wood  is  not  proper  for  this  part  of  the  country.  It  would  appear  that  the 
woods  in  this  country  bad,  at  one  time  or  other,  been  dcftroyedby  fire,  as  the 
mark*  of  that  clement  are  yifible  on  many  of  the  roots  and  trees  that  are  du^ 
up  in  the  mofles.  h  may  not  be  an  improbable  qonjedure,  that  this  happen • 
ed  anno  1308,  when  King  Kobert  Baucc  defeated  CuutNB  Earl  of  Buchan, 
near  Invcrnry.  Fordun,  ^  affer  narrating  this  defeat,  adds,  *<  cwitaium  dt 
MuthoB  igm  eonfumjlt. 


of  St.  Fergus.  I45 

\>y  draining,  and  planting  larch  and  fpruce  firs  for  nurferies, 
other  trees  may  be  brought  up.  Many  drains  have  already 
been  made^  and  feveral  thoufands  of  larches  and  fpruces  have 
been  planted^  and  the  fame  improvements  are  carrying  on 
through  the  whole. 

Roads  and  Bridge.'-^liht  principal  roads,  through  this  pa- 
rifli,  are  thofe  leading  from  Peterhead  to  Fraferburgh  and 
Banff,  and  from  Peterhead  to  Old  Deer.  They  are  kept  in 
tolerable  repair  by  the  ftatute  labour,  but  will  never  be 
good  roads  until  turnpikes  are  c(labli(hed.  It  is  not  to  be 
imagined  that  any  man  will  work  a  day  on  tHe  roads,  when 
he  may  redeem  his  labour  for  3d.  If  ever  a  mail  coach  be 
eftabliihed,  for  the  accommodation  of  the  country  north  of 
Aberdeen,  the  courfe  muft  be  by  the  coaft  fide,  at  leaft  in 
winter,  as  the  other  road  by  Fyvie  is  often  impaflable,  on  ac- 
<:ount  of  the  depth  of  the  fnow  ;  and  the  certainty  of  paf- 
fengers,  from  the  towns  on  the  coaft,  efpecially  at  Peterhead, 
where  there  is  always  a  great  refort  of  company  for  the 
benefit  of  the  mineral  well,  will  m^ke  the  road  by  the  coaft 
fide  eligible  in  fummer.  The  only  bridge  in  this  pari(b  is 
;that  over  theUgic,  on  the  road  from  Peterhead  to  Fraferburgh 
and  Banff.  It  confifts  of  two  arches.  This  bridge  was  built, 
in  confequence  of  an  a£t  of  Parliament  for  that  effef^,  in  the 
reign  of  James  the  VII.  of  Scotland,  and  II.  of  England.  * 

Eccleftajlical  State. — This  parilb  is  one  of  the  32  the  tithes  ^ 
and  patronage  whereof  belonged  to  the  Abbey  of  Arbroath.  § 
Vol.  XV.  T  The 

♦  Jlefriufed  A&t  of  Pari.  Jambb  VH,  Par.  I. 

^  The  minifter  of  St.  Fergus  formerly  fupplied  the  charge  at  FettertDgut, 
hy  preaching  there  every  third  fabhath,  until  J  6 18,  YiYitn  FettertBgu  wu 
.annexed  to  Deer.  Fctterangus^  as  well  as  St.  Fcr^s,  it  in  Banff  ihire*,  and  the 

reafim 


1 46  Statijlical  Account 

The  family  of  Panrpurc  acquired  a  right  to  thofc  tithes  and 
patronsgc ;  but,  by  the  attainder  of  the  Earl  of  PikNMURE,  who 
unfortunately  engaged  in  the  rebellion  in  1715,  the  patron- 
age fell  to  the  Crown.  The  ftipend  is  90  1,  including  one 
chalder  of  bear,  and  three  of  meal,  valued  at  8 1.  6  s.  8d.  per 
chaldcr.  The  glebe  is  about  8  acres  of  good  land.  The 
phurch  was  built  in  i']^'i%  and  the  manfe  in  1766  ;  and  both . 
jre  in  goqd  repair.  Thpre  is  no  diffenting  meeting-houfc  in 
the  parif^. 

Schools, — ^The  fchool-houfe  was  built  anno  178^5.  The 
falary  of  the  fchool-mafter  confiftb  of  10  bolls  of  meal  paid 
jay  the  parifhioners,  and  3  1.  9  s.  paid  by  heritors.  He  draws 
2 1.  froni  the  kirk-feffion  as  their  clerk,  befides  what  he  re- 
ceives at  baptifms  and  marriages.  As  there  are  generally 
fomc  private  fchools  in  the  parifli,  the  number  of  fcholars 
attending  the  parochial  fchool  feldom  exceeds  30.  Such  as 
are  taught  Latin  pay  2S.  6d,  arithmetic,  2  S,  reading  an4  writ? 
ing,  1  s.  6d,  and  reading  Englifh,  i  s.  per  qaarter. 

Poor  — ^The  number  on  the  poor's  roll  in  the  parifh  is  30  \ 
and  the  funds,  from  which  they  are  fupplicd,  arife  from  120 1. 
at  intereft,  the  profits  of  a  herfe  for  burials,  which,  at  an  ave- 
rage, produces  3  \.per  annum  ;  feat-rents,  2I.  14s.  4d  ;  &c.  the 
weekly  colledions  24 1.  per  annum ;  amounting  in  all  to  3  5  L 
14s.  4d.  Jamijs  Ferguson,  Efq;  of  Pitfour,  the  fole  pro- 
prietor of  the  parifli,  gives  annually  a  liberal  donation  to  the 
poor,  by  which,  and  the  above  funds,  they  are  fo  well  fup- 

plied,  that  there  are  no  beggars  in  the  parifh. 

Emifient 

fcafoii  is  laid  to  be,  that  the  CmrKKs  of  Invcrugle,  the  ancient  proprieton, 
who  were  heritable  Sherifis  of  QanfT,  obtained  an  ad  of  the  Legiilature,  de- 
pUring  their  own  lands  to  be  within  their  own  jurifdidion.  St.  Fergus,  Fet- 
^erapgtts,  and  Strolacb,  in  New-Machar  pariih,  which  alfo  belonged  to  the 
pheynea,  paj  the  land  tax  and  window  tax,  as  parts  of  Banff-flure,  but  in  every 
gther  refpcd  are  fubjed  to  the  jorifdiftion  of  the  Sheriff  of  Aberdeen. 


.  of  St  Fergus.  147 

Eminent  Men, — ^It  might  be  proper,  under  this  article,  to 

give  a  fliort  account  of  the  mofl:  eminent  family  in  Scotland, 

the  CuMiNESi  who  were  Earls  of  Buchan,  *  and  cither  pro- 

T  2  prietors 

\  The  chief  of  this  family  wasCvMiNfc  Lord  BaAknoch,  of  whom  were 
dcfcended  the  EarU  of  Buchan  and  Monceith,  and  31  knights  $.  This  fac- 
tion, with  the  Earls  of  Maer  and  Atholl,  with  whom  they  were  conned^ed 
by  marriages, -ruled  the  kingdom  as  they  pleaTed,  during  feme  years  in  the 
latter  part  of  the  reign  of  Alexander  the  II.  and  durihg  the  fird  part  of 
the  reign  of  Alex  AND  BR  III.  "> 

The  male  hne  of  the  ancient  Earls  of  Buchan  failing  in  the  perfon  of 
Ferous^)  the  lad  Earl  of  the  ancient  race,  his  daughter  Marjory  married 
William  Cumin e^ of  the  hoafe  of  Badenoch,  who  in  his  right  became  Earl 
of  Buchan  about  the  bcginoing  of  the  13th  century.  His  pofterity  continued 
to  enjoy  this  great  eftace  for  too  years,  and  were  the  mod  powerful  fubjeds 
in  the  kingdom.  This  Earl  founded  the  abbey  of  Deer,  and  endowed  it  with 
a  confiderable  revenue  in  lands  iituated  in  the  county  of  Aberdeen,  Ahhq 
laiS.  He  was /conftituted  great  judiciary  of  Scotland  by  Alexander  II.  in 
t%%o ;  and  his  brother  WALTBa  was  by  the  fame  King  created  Earl  of  Mon- 
te it  h,  he  having  married  the  heirefs  of  that  family,  by  whom  he  got  a  large 
cdate.  The  Cdmines  being  now  fo  xich  and  powerful,  they  became  form!- 
,  dable,  not  only  to  the  nobles,  but  even  to  the  King.  They  were  called  to 
anfwer  before  the  King  and  Eftates,  anno  1135,  for  their  various  aifls  of 
tyranny^  •pprtffm^  murder^  arndfacnUgt^  and  not  appearing,  a  fentence  of  out- 
lawry and  forfeiture  was  pronounced  againft  them ;  but  Government  tvas  tod 
weak  to  put  this  fentence  in  execution.  The  faction ,  gxtatly  irritated  by  this 
fentence,  refolved  to  take  the  fird  opportunity  of  getting  the  king's  perfon 
into  their  power  \,  Walter,  Earl  of  Monteith,  was  the  principal  adtor  in 
this  plot ;  and  having  along  with  him  William,  the  ftd  Earl  of  Buchan  ot 

thfi 

§  FoRDuiftf»</ Major. 

\  A  charter  granted  by  FtRGui  ^ar/p^BofcHAN  fo  JOH*!  fbefiao/VCH' 
rutD^is  to  Se/een  in  tb*  Advocate t  lihrary,  Frtm  the  tborter  it  afipeart  that 
Fergus  lad  exchanged  the  Idndtyjituafed  hettoixt  Gicbi  andfBe'Beati  o/B§6ikh^  itUB 
John  for  the  lands  of  Stains  ;  and  John  ivas  obliged  tegivt  atttkdknei  at  tht  iWHf 
held  by  the  tart  hisfuperior  at  EIIm. 

I  Fordo N. 


148  Statijlical  Account 

prietors  or  fuperiors  of  all  that  Earldom,  befidcs  many  con- 

fiderable  eftates  10  other  parts  of  the  kingdom.      But  as  it 

r  would 

the  name  of  Ciunine,  the  Earl  of  Athol,  Lord  Badenocd,  the  Eai4  of 
MARii»and  otliers  of  their  adherents,  they  entered  the  royal  apartments 
at  Kinrofs,  early  in  the  morning  of  the  aSth  of  0<5fcober  lxjp5,'and  made  the 
king  a  prifoner  bcfqre  he  was  awalce,  and  carried  him  to  Stirling.  They 
then  diiinified  his  Majefty*s  iervantR,  and  filled  all  placet  of  trull  %rith  their 
own  adherents.  So  great  was  their  power,  that  the  king,  after  he  had  recov- 
ered hi4  liberty,  thought  it  prudent  to  give  them  a  full  pardon. 

Alexandfr,  .the  3d  Earl  of- Buchan,  of  the  name  of  Cnmhie,  wa« 
Juibiciary  an4l'Ord  high  Conflable  of  Scotland, and  was  appointed  one  of  the 
fix  governors  of  the  kingdom,  a^ter  the  death  of  King  AtsxAVntii  III.  Her 
founded  ap  hofpitafat  Turriff,  anno  1272,  for  twelve  poor  huftandmen,  and 
another  at  Newburgh,  both  in  Aberdcenfliire.  John,  the  4th  Earl  of  Bochao^ 
conftable  of  Scptknd,  was  one  of  the  arbiters  chofcn  on  the  part  of  Jpuiv 
Baliol,  in  the  competition  for  the  drown  between  him  and  Robert  Bruci. 
At  this  time,  John  CuMiNE^Lord  Badenoch,  commonly  called  the  3Uck 
Cuitiitt,  claimed  the  Crown  of  Scotland,  as  being  defcendcd  of  Hcxasilda, 
daughter  and  hcirefs  of  Gotbkric,  fon  and  heir  of  Donald  king  of  Scotland. 
It  IS  well  known  how  this  affair  was  determined  by  Edward  I.  of  Enghnd. 
To  the  Black  Cumine  fucceeded  his  fon  John  Guminb,  Lord  of  Badenoch, 
commonfy  called  the  Red  Cumne.  Scotland  had  now  for  a  confiderable  time 
groaned  under  tht  yoke  of  EngtlAi  fetvitude  :  Baliol  had  meanly  gitren  up 
his  pretended  right  to  the  Crown  to  Edward ;  and  Bruce  had  fecretiy  inti- 
mated to  his  friends  his  intention  of  afferting  his  title  to  the  royal  dignity. 
C (J mine,  ever  mindful  of  his  own  intereft,  made  a  folemn  engagement  with 
Hobsrt,  to  aid  him  with  all  hi»  power  in  mounting  the  throne^  provided  he 
fhould  be  reftored  to  the  large  pofteflions  which  his  family  had  formerly  enjoy- 
cd ;  but,  after  deliberating  upon  the  affair,  he  began  to  doubt  the  event :  If 
the  attempt  failed  he  was  undone ;  and  he  did  not  know  how  to  retrad  :  Hit 
own  black  heart  fuggefted  the  deteftabie  remedy  :  His  hopes  of  great  rewards 
from  England  induced  him  to  divulge  the  whole  fcheme  of  the  ScottiQi 
fuitriots  to  Edward  ;  aDd3RUCB,  finding  that  he  was  betrayed,  with  difficulty 
efcaped  to  Scotlfod,  where,  difcovering  clear  proof  of  the  villany  of  Cum  in  e, 
be  purfued  him  to  the  church  of  Dumfries,  whither,  from  confcious  guilt,  he 
had  fled  for  refuge,  and  punilhed  him  as  his  crime  defeived,  on  the  tenth 
of  February  1306.  Having  no  iffue,  he  was  the  laft  Lord  Badenoch,  of 
the  name  of   Cumine.    The  ilaughter  of  the  J7«i/ CirimM by  Bmi7cs  infpir- 

ed 


of  St  Fergus.  149 

would  greatly  exceed  the  limits  of  a  ftatlftical  account  to 
notice,  even  brkfly,  the  many  iUaftrious  charadters  in  this 

great 

ed  the  whole  cUo  with  a  defire  to  rerenge  kit  deit^.  They  continved  vio^ 
leatly  to  oppofe  Bsucc  {  but,  by  defeatisg  the  £wl  of  Buchan  tt  Inverttrie^ 
Mtft9  1308,  he  put  an  end  to  the  greatneft  of  thif  too  powerful  family.  BaucK 
purfued  rhe  Cumioes  to  Fyvic,  where  they  were  entirely  difperfed.  He  cr« 
c^ynped  there,  until  the  return  of  the  parties  which  he  had  fent  out  to  bum 
the  Earl  of  Bvcban's  cftate  :  The  £ari  was  chco  focfeited  and  out-lawed^Y« 
At  what  particular  period  the  CacYNsk  became  proprietors  of  thisparifh* 
is  not  certainly  knowof  but  it  iRould  appear,  that  they  were  in  pofisilion  of 
this  eftate  before  the  C amines  fncceeded  to  the  £aildom  of  Bucban.  Sir 
Rkginolo  CscTSfa  of  Invcrugie  was  the  founder  of  the  Carmelitei  houfe  in 
Aberdeen;  and,  beikles  other  revcnncs,  beftmred  upon  it  40s.  f  yearly  out  of 
his  hmds  of  Blackwarer,  in  this  parifh.  He  had,  by  his  wife,  a  daughter  of 
Cumine,  Lord  Badcnoch,  two  fons  ;  Sir  Reginald,  who,  in  1267,  was  prc<* 
tnoted  to  the  office  of  Lord  Chamberlain  of  Scotland}  ;  HaNar  CHtYNC,  the 
Chamberlain's  brother,  was  eleded  Biihop  of  Aberdeen,  ammo  l)8i.  He  was 
one  of  thofe  who  iwore  fealty  to  Edward,  ammo  1296.  As  he  was  neatly  jf 
laced  to  the  CvstiMts,  he  adhered  to  that  party,  and  was  obliged  to  leave 
this  country,  and  take  rcfoge  in  England ,  where  he  remained  in  exile  until 
King  RoacaT  was  pleafed  to  recal  him.  He  was  fo  happy  in  being  allowed 
to^refume  his  (unions,  that  he  applied  all  the  revenues  of  the  fee,  which, 
during  his  abfence,  had  increafed  to  a  very  confideraUe  fum,  in  building  the 
bridge  over  the  Don  at  Aberdeen.  This  bridge  confiib  of  one  Gothic  arch, 
71  feet  wide  at  the  water,  and  the  height,  from  the  water  to  the  top  of  the 
arch,  is  60  ficet*    He  died  anm  1319,  having  been  hiihop  of  Aberdeen  4S 

years. 

5  AJUvtrJeal^  mftd  hj  this  Eoii  In  his  father  $  li/efme,  taaj  iatefyfimnd  at 
the  wnnaflery  ^  TuHgUmd  in  Galloway,  Jt  heart  •  fiield  emhatiled  at  ttp,  and 
aomtaimimg  three  garht  sr  'wheat  Jbeaves :  *The  LfgemJ,  S,  Jouis  Con  IN,  Fel.  Coat,  de 
Bueham.  Am  hipreffiam  ofthiifeal  voatfent  to  that  meofi  ingemioms  amtiquary  Captaim 
HcNar  HOTTOM  rftbe  Xoyal  Xeghmemt  of  Artillery^  who  it  h  hoped  will  Jkn 
favamlr  the  PMit  with  his  valuahle  colU&iom  0/  Antiqmitiet. 

-      t  f^ritet  ofKimgi  College, 

\  Fordmm^  vl.  2  /.  Ift6.  md  Lives  0/  Officers  of  State. 


150  Statijlical  Account 

great  family  ;  and,  as,  indeed,  Aich  difquiCtions  belong  moxt 
properly  to  the  department  of  the  hiftorian  or  b'wgrapher^  than 

to 

Xfars.  The  dfred  male  liiie  of  theCBBTNEB  5  of  InTeragie  failed  in  the 
feign  of  Davii»,  IL  and  thef  arifliof  St  Fergus,  with  the  other  cfiatesbelong- 
iiig  to  tftc  family,  fell  to  two  heirefles,  \  the  eldcft  of  whom.  Ma  riot  H4^ 
CffETif^,  iparried  John  Keith  of  Ravcnfcraig*  fecond  fon  of  Sir  £owarx> 
KaiTH,  great  Marifchal  of  Scotland,  who  in  her  right  became  proprietor  gf 
this  pariih  about  the  year  1560.  Thedired  male  line  of  John  Kr.it h  fail- 
cd  in  the  perfon  of -Sir  Wii^li am  Keith  of  Inyenigie,  who  fell  in  the  battle 
of  Flowden.  He  left  two  daughters,  the  elded  of  whom  Ivas  married  to 
William  the  4th  Earl  Marifchal,  foooetime  before  1 5  38.  By  this  marriage 
Earl  Mariscwal  became  proprietor  of  St  Fergus.  He  was  poffeiTed  of  one 
of  the  greatcft  land  ei^ates-at  diat  time  in  Scotland.     In  the  years  1530,  and 

1540, 

^  Tbt  pafife  tf  St  Fergus  made  but  cJmaU  fart  cftbi  property  vf  tbh  antietit  • 
famUy,  NiJbetfaySi  ( Heraldry^  ^,  J.  p.  i$nj  thai  be  fnu  a  ebarter  granted  by 
Reynold  Cbeynej  fin  of  Reynold  tobo  was  tbe  fin  of  Reynold ,  of^  landt  rf'Dury. 
King  RoBiRT  Brvcr  gives  the  landt  of  Dalminy^  Mohieb  formerly  belonged  to 
Roger  Mouxrat,  to  REaiNALD  Chetne,  at  tbat  iing*e  charter  bears  in  tbe 
Marl  of  Haddin^on*s  coUeBions.  Reginald  Cbjltne  f^ves  tbe  lands  of  Ardlogie^ 
in  the  parifi  of  Fyvie^  forfupporting  a  chaplain  in  tbe  priory  of  Fyvify  vubicb  vuu 
fubordinate  to  tbe  abbey  o/'Arbroaib.      (  Cbart.  of  Arbroath ,) 

From  Chetne  of  Inverugieytoere  defcendd  the  Cbeynes  of  Effelmua^  Amagty 
Pitficbie,  and  Stralocbj  all  which  are  now  extinff. 

Chrisitan  Cu  ETNE,  a  dangbter  of  Straloch,  was  married  to  Sir  ALEXANDER. 
Set  ON  of  that  Hi,  who  bravely  defended  the  town  of  Berwick  agaiitjl  King  Ed- 
ward and  the  whole  Englijb  army,  anno  1 33 3.  Edward  having  fummoned  tbe 
town  tofttrrender^  threatened^  in  cafe  of  refnfal,  to  put  to  death  Sir  Alexander's 
tTvo  fonsy  then  in  bis  hands ^  tbe  one  as  an  hiflagey  and  the  eiher  eu  aptifoner',  but  nd- 
thing  could  prevail  with  tbe  brave  Sir  Alexander  to  give  up  the  town  as  long  as  it 
toas  poJfiUe  to  defend  it.  The  perfidious  Edward,  thereupon^  mtf  batharwtfy  exe^ 
eutedthe  two  young  men^  William  and  Thomas  Seton  s,  in  view  of  their  father 
and  mother;  which  fiociing  fpeSlacle  they  bore  with  a  mofi  uncommon  degree  cfforti" 
tude. 

\  Tbeyouttge/l  of  the  co-heirejfes  of  Cheyne  of  Tnverugie  was  married  to  NiCOL 
Sutherland  o/*  Foriat,  and  brought  with  her  tbe  iaads  of  Dvtrvs  in  Moray ^ 
irtis  NiOOL  was  anceflor  of  the  Lords  DuFEBS. 


of  St.  Ferjrus.  151 

to  that  of  the  Jlatifiica/ phiLfip/jery  we  (haU  content  ourfelvcs 
with  giving  in  this  place  only  a  brief  flcctch  of  the  charafter  of 
the  great  Field  Marfhal  Keith,  brother  to  George,  laft  Earl 
of  Marifchal  j  and  Whh  thro\ying  a  few  anecdotes  of  his  moft 

illuftrious 

Z540,  he  g-ot  chtrtcrs  ]  on  many  landi  lying  in  the  countiet,  Cajthoefs,  layer- , 
sefi,  Mt^ray,  Banff,  Aberdeen,  Kincardine,  Angus,  Fife,  Linlithgow,  Ace:' 
It  U  faid,  that  after  Queen  Mart's  captivity,  he  took  no  concern  in  public 
affairs,  and  by  living  a  retired  life  in  his  caftle  of  Dunottar,  he  got  the  name 
of  William  in  the  Tower.  He  fo  nroch  improved  his  eftate,  that  at  his 
death  it  was  reckoned  worth  170,000  merks  Scots,  or  14,108!.  6i,  8d.  Sterling. 
This  eftate  was  fo  fitaated,  that  in  travelling  from  the  north  point  of  Caiih. 
ncf»,  to  the  borders  of  England,  he  could  ileep  every  night  on  his  own 
ground,  f 

This  noble  l^rd  died  in  an  advanced  age  in  1581,  and  was  fucceedcd  by 
his  prandfoo  George,  the  jth  Earl  Marifchal,  one  of  the  moft  eminent  men 
•f  his  time.  After  having  ftudied  at  GeneVa,  under  the  famous  Tueodokc- 
BtZA,  he  travelled  through  Italy  and  Germaiiy,  where  he  viiited  the  Land- 
grave of  Hesse,  Prince  of  the  Ca  1  ti,  who,  underftanding  who  he  was,  re- 
ceived him  kindly,  and  treated  him  with  gre.it  magniiicence,  as  a  Scotch 
defcendant  of  the  ancient  Catti.  In  1581;  lie  wa?  fcnt  ambalfador  extraor- 
dinary to  the  cooxt  of  Denmark,  to  efpoufe  the  Princefii  Anne  in  name  of 
James  VI.  of'  Scotland,  and  1.  of  England.  Being  poifcfled  of  a  great  eftate, 
))e  appeared  with  all  the  luftre  and  magnificence  with  which  the  wealth  of 
Scotland  co^ld  adorn  him,  and  that  chiefly  on  his  own  expences.  In  1593, 
he  made  a  noble  foundation  cf  a  college  at  Aberdeen,  and  obtained  from  the 
Crown,  for  the  fuppott  of  it,  the  lands  and  houLs  belonging  to  fome  of  the 
religious  at  Aberdeen,  which  had  not  been  fued  off  before  the  Reformation. 

I   Put,  Records,  and  Haddutgtont  CoHeB'wnt,  ^gt  92,  93,  iT'r. 

f  this  Ear^  was  a  zealomt  promoter  oftbc  Rsfwmaiion,  hut  opfffid  0U  violent 
proceedings  in  that  affair.  IVben  the  Confeffion  of  Faith  jvas  ^reflated  to  FarliameMi, 
SM  Xj6o,  tie  Earl  0/  Mariftbal  Jiood  mf^  and  faid,  **  //  is  long  f nee  1  car  tied  fome 
'*  favour  to  the  truth,  and  -was  fomewhat  xeaUus  for  the  Rotnan  religion  ;  but  ibis 
**  day  batb  fully  refohed  me  of  the  truth  of  the  one,  and  the  falfebood  of  the  ether  ; 
**  /^'^*  feeing  (wty  Lords)  the  Infiops,  who,  by  their  learning,  can,  and  for  the  seal 
**  they  fiould  have  for  the  truth,  would,  as  I  fuppofe,gainfay  any  thing  repugnant  to 
**  it,  fay  nothing  agginj  tbt  Confeffon  xve  have  heard,  J  cannot  think  But  it  is  ibe^ 
^  TtVTB  or  GoPj  and  the  contrary  of  it  is  falfi  detefiabU  do^rine'\ 


152  Statijlical  Account 

illuftrious  anceftors  into  the  notes.  This  great  man  was  born 
at  ImverugiEj  in  this  parifii,  and  was  baptized  i6th  June  1696, 
by  the  names  of  James  Francis  Epward.  •  He  early  en- 
tered into  the  military  fervice  abroad,^  rofe  to  the  higheft 
rank  in  the  army,  and  was  inferior  to  no  general  of  his  time 
in  military  capacity.  He  accompanied  his  brother  Earl 
Marifchal  to  the  battle  of  Dunblane ^  and  afterwards  went 
abroad  to  feek  preferment  at  the  Spanifh  Court  \  but  not 
finding  a  quick  promotion  there,  he  entered  into  the  Ruf^an 
fervice,  and  was  by  Peter  the  Great  promoted  to  the  rank  of 
a  general  officer.  He  afterwards  entered  into  the  fervice  of 
Frederic  III.  King  of  Pruffia,  who  raifed  him  to  the  rank  of 
Field  Marifhal.  He  commanded  that  king's  armies  fometimes 
alone,  and  at  other  times  along  with  his  Majefty,  until  the 
fatal  battle  of  Hochkirchen,  on  the  14th  Oftobcr  1758.  The 
Field  Marflial,  returning  from  a  feparate  command,  found 
that  the  King  had  encanf^ped  in  a  very  imprc^r  place,  and 
inftantly  told  his  Majefty  that  Daun  would  furprize  them  that 
night.  His  prediftion  proved  too  true  ;  and  the  Field  Mar* 
fha}>  making  a  glorious  defence,  wa.s  unfortunately  killed.  He 
was  buried  in  the  church-yard  of  Hochkirchen,  but  the 
King  of  Pruffia  had  his  corpfe  taken  up,  and  fent  to  Ber- 
lin, where  he  was  again  intened  with  the  greatcft  military 
honours.  I 

AntiqultU^ 

•  Sapilfmal  Regijler  of  farifi  of  St.  Fergus, 

\  The  Field  Marilhal,  with  all  his  great  qnalities  was  a  very  bad  econo- 
mill ;  and  fometlines  abfented  himfeif  trom  Court  wken  he  could  not  pay  hi« 
debtAk  On  one  of  thefe  occafions,  the  Great  Frederic  called  for  him,  and 
found  him  in  his  garden,  employed  in  pointing  paper  cannon  at  1300  pins  of 
wood  in  dtfTerent  diredions,  fo  as  to  difcover  how  he  might  poor  the 
greatcft  quantity  of  5 re  upon  them,  as  their  pofition  changed^  The  King 
paid  hiu  General's  debts,  was  delighted  with  the  difcovcry  of  his  amufement^ 
and  augmented  the  number  of  pins  to  I2,ooo;  after  which,  he  aii4  his 
general  had  many  a  keen  engagtment  in  the  garden,  wiach  proved  of  great 
ftrvicc  afserwards  in  the  Scld.^ 


of  St.  Fergus.  iS3 

AniiquHUs, — ^As  this  parifli  hstti  for  upwards  of  500  years, 
been  only  a  part  of  a  larger  cftate,  and  never  divided  into 
Anall  properties,  we  cannot  expeft  to  find  (lately  manfions 
here.  Some  peices  of  (tone  and  lime  are  to  be  met  with, 
hard  by  the  mouth  ©f  the  Ugie,  where  it  fails  into  the  fea, 
,  and  here,  it  is  faid,  was  the  ancient  refidence  of  the  family 
of  Chcyne.  They  afterwards  built  another  caftle,  to  which 
they  aUb  gave  the  name  of  Inverugie,  *  at  tl^e  diilance  of 
more  than  a  mile  weftward,  on  the  fame  fide  of  the  .riv«r. 
The  fite  of  this  caftle  does  honour  to  the  judgement  and 
go6d  tafte  of  its  founder.  Here  the  Ugie  forms  a  femi« 
circle  before  the  'ca(Ue,  and  tl^e  area  of  this  femicircle  is  ter« 
minated,  by  M$unUPltafantf  a  fteep  rifing  ground  on  theop- 
pofite  fide  of  the  river.  The  caftle  is  now  in  ruins,  but  the 
two  courts  are  almoft  entire ;  part  of  them  (erves  as  a  gra- 
nery,  and  part  is  ufed  as  a  brewery  for  porter  and  been 
Within  a  few  paces  of  the  wall  of  the  North  court,  are  the 
remains  of  an  ice-houfe^  whicli  perhaps  was  the  firft  of  the 
kind  in  this  country. — On  an  eminence  N.  W.  from  the 
caftle,  there  is  ^n  artificial  moat,  wherci  it  is  probable,  the 
ancient  proprietors  held  their  courts  fqr  the  diftribution  of 
juftice. 

CharaHer  atid  Manner  of  Living* — ^The  people  in  general 
are  very  hofpitable,  kind  to  ftrangers,  intelligent  and  conten- 
ted* They  have  fuch  an  attachment  to  their  native  foil,  that 
few  of  them  chufe' to  leave  it.  From  Buchan  there  never 
were  any  emigrations,  and  indeed  there  can  be  no  reafon  for 

VoD.  XV.  U  ^         any, 

*  Thii  continited  to  be  the  refidence  of  the  fucceediag  proprieton,  umtt 
|he  attainder  ot  Lord  Marifcha],  who  unfortonately  engaged  in  the  rebel- 
lion 1 7 15.  The  precife  time  tvhen  this  caflje  wai  built  is  not  known ;  but  as 
4>ne  part  of  it,  now  in  ruins,  wat'otUedibe  Cbtyae'fTrwtry  it  is  probable  tl^t 
it  was  bitilt  by  that  iamiiy. 


154  Statijiical  Acctiunt 

any,  as  every  man,  who  is  tlifpofed  to  work,  can  always liave 
good  employment  and  good  wages,  either  as  a  mechanic  or 
a  labourer.     Although  few  of  the  farmers  have  leafes,  from 
many  years  experience,  they  confider  tliemfelves  as  perfeftly 
fecure,  and  in  ;io  danger  of  being  removed,  while  they  live 
peaceably  and  arc  punftual  in  the  payment  of  their  rents, 
which  are  very  moderate,  when  compared  with  thofe  of  the 
neighbouring  eflatcs.     They  are  fcnfible  the  heritor  could 
have  more  rent  than  he  draws  from  them.    He  has  abdiifh- 
ed  all  cuftoms  and  fervices  ;  and,  if  any  of  them  build  good 
houfes,  a  proper  allowance  is  made.     The  kind  and  indul- 
gent manner  in  which  they  are  treated  by  the  proprietor, 
has  ilrongly  attached  them  to  him.    They  are  fenfible  that 
he  is  happy  in  beholding  their  profperity,  and  will  not  from 
thence  take  any  advantage  to  raife  their  rents  above  what 
they  can  bear.  The  manner  of  living  here  is  greately  chang- 
ed within  the  laft  thirty  years.     The  farmers  now  appear  at 
church  and  market  drefied  in  Englifh  fuperfine  cloth,  and 
many  of  their  wives  and  daughters  in  cloaks  and  bonnets. 
The  man-fervant  is  as  expenfively  arrayed  as  his  mafter,  and 
the  drefs  of  the  maid-fcrvant  is  little  inferior  to  that  of  her 
miftrefs.     The  food  of  the  inhabitants  formerly  confiftcd 
chiefly  of  oa^  meal,  and  fometimes  of  fifh,  but  thtfe  gener- 
ally falted  and  dryed ;  owing  to  this  caufe,  the  fcurvy  was  a 
<:ommon  difeafe.     They  raifed  few  vegetables,  and  turnips 
were  often  brought  by  fea  from  Aberdeen.    Every  cottager 
now  has  his  turnips,  cabbages,  potatoes  ;  and  many  of  the 
farmers  have  their  mutton,  fed  by  themfelves  for  fummcr 
food,  and  the  greateft  part  of  them  kill  a  fed  ox  or  cow,  for 
winter  piovifion- 1 

NUMBER 

f  From  the  middle  of  November  1792,  to  the  firft  of  January  X793[, 
40  fat  cattle,  weighing  from  14  to  24  ftone,  were  killed  in  this  parifh  fo{ 
fqod  dnrtog  the  winter,  beiidct  a  confldcrable  number  of  iheep. 


•^    '-  ef  Dollar.  ^  135 

NUMBER    X. 
PARISH    OF  DOLLAR, 

(Cjunty  of  Clackmannan,  Presbytery  of  StirlinGi 
Synod  of  Perth  and  Stirling.) 

By  the  Rev.  Mr  John  W atsou,  Minijler. 


Origin  of  the  Name. 

jL  he  word  Dollar  is  faid  to  be  Gaelic*  According  tafom^ 
it  was  formerly  fpelt  DoUardy  from  doU^  a  plaiiii  or  vale>  and 
drd^  a  hill,  oi:  high  land.  This  is  pcrfeftly  applicable  to  iti 
real  fituation,  the  principal  part  of  the  parifli  being  a  beauti-^ 
ful  plain  or  valley,  of  about  an  iEnglifti  mile  in  breadth,  lying 
along  the  foot  of  a  high  range  of  hills,  known  by  the  name  of 
the  OchiU  Hi/is,  According  to  others,  it  may  be  expreffcd  DoiU 
lar^  fignifying  a  hidden  or  concealed  place.  This  alfo  is 
expreffivc  of  its  real  fituation  5  \(rhich  is  low  and  not  fcen  at 
any  great  diftancc,  when  one  approaches  it  in  any  direAion^ 

Situation^  Extent^  Fornix  and  Appearance, — It  16  lUppofed  td 
be  equally  diftant  from  Stirling,  Kinrofs,  ahdDumfermlinc^ 
and  is  reckoned  about   1 2  EngUfli  miles  from  cach#      Thcr 

•  ^  F3i  middle 


156  Statiftical  Account 

middle  and  priocipal  part  of  the  parlfh,  in  which  both  the 
church  and  the  town  (land,  is  an  extenfive  and  gently  flop- 
ing  plain,  beautifully  interfperfed  with  fmall  villages,  farm 
houfes,  and  inclofures ;  and,  taking  in  with  it  a  fmall  part 
of  Muckart  on  the  Eaft,  and  Tillicoultry  on  the  Weft,  it 
forms  a  kind  of  amphitheatre,  of  an  oval  figure,  of  about  3 
miles  in  length,  and  one  in  breadth  ;  bounded  by  the  Oqhil- 
hills  on  the  North,  and  a  rifing  ground  on  the  South.  Tbis 
beautiful  plain  would  feem  to  have  been  laid  down,  and 
fmoothed  by  the  great  hand  of  nature,  to  be  the  fccnc  oif  fport* 
and  exercifes,  fuch  as  thofe  of  the  ancient  Olympic  games- 
It  is  of  a  fouthem  expofure ;  and,  when  viewed  from  the 
rifrng  grounds,  particularly  on  the  South,  the  pleafed  and 
admiring  beholder  would  be  ready  to  pronounce  it  the  moft 
delightful  fpot  in  the  world. 

Riv^r  and  Fi/b. — ^The  water  of  Dovan^  which  runs  from 
E.  to  W.  nearly  divides  the  parifli.  The  Dovan  is  not  na» 
vigablc,  being  a  imall  but  beautiful  ftream  of  pure  limpid 
water.  Its  channel,  at  a  medium,  may  be  about  100  feet  in 
breadth.  Here  it  gently  glides  over  a  bed  of  pebbles,  where, 
finding  itfelf  at  eafe  (as  it.  were,)  after  having  been  dafhed 
and  broken  in  its  narrow  and  rugged  channel,  through  the  pa^ 
riflies  of  Glendovan  and  Muckart,  it  feems  to  fport  itfelf  in 
many  beaudful  meanders  *,  winding  from  fide  to  fide  of  the 
valley,  as  if  loth  to  leave  the  delightful  haughs  of  DoUar- 
But  at  times,  w*hen  fwelled  by  heavy  rains,  which  come 
down  in  torrents  from  the  hills,  it  fuddenly  overflows  its 
banks  to  a  confiderable  extent,  to  the  no  fmall  damage  of 
the  farmer,  whofe  lands  arc  fituated  by  the  fide  of  it.  The 
river,  being  fmall,  does  not  admit  of  many  kinds  of  fi(h ;  yet 
there  are  very  fine  freih-water  trouts,  of  a  confideraUe  fize, 
taken  in  itj  as  well  as  fparrs,  in  great  numbers.    In  harveft, 

fea 


of  Dollar,  157 

fea  trouts  arc  likewife  killed  in  it,  fiom  2  lib.  to  4  lib.  weight. 
And,  in  the  feafon,  falmon  are  caught  from  5  lib.  to  20  lib« 
About  20  or  30  years  ago,  {almon  were  found  in  Dovan  in 
great  plenty ;  but,  from  the  illegal  and  murderous  manner  of 
killing  them  with  fpears,  at  an  improper  feafon,  their  num- 
bers of  late  have  greately  decrcafed.  As  there  are  but  few 
or  none  killed  now,  but  by  gentlemen  in  the  way  of  fport, 
•r  by  fome  of  the  poorer  fort  of  the  people,  for  the  ufe  of 
their  families,  the  prices  cannot  well  be  afcertained« 

Bridges. — There  was  a  very  good  done  bridge  over  th^ 
Dovan  nearly  oppofite  to  the  church  \  but  fome  years  ago  it 
was  carried  down  by  a  flood.  At  prefent,  a  wooden  bridge  is 
about  to  be  put  over  it,  neat  the  fame  place,  by  the  volun- 
tary fubfcriptions  of  a  few  public-ffHrited  perfons  in  the 
neighbourhood  \  which  will  be  of  very  great  convenience 
<o  the  people  in  this  place,  particularly  upon  the  fabbath  ^ 
as  many  of  the  parifhioners  have  to  crofs  the  Dovan  in  their 
way  to  church.  The  want  of  a  bridge  would  not  have  been 
felt  fo  much  here  20  or  30  years  ago,  as  the  people  in  this 
place  were  very  expert  at  croffing  the  river  on  Jilts,  f  And 
there  ate  ftill  fome  who  crofs  it  in  this  way.  But  fince  the 
time  that  the  bridge  was  built,  this  pradice  has  been  gene« 
tally  laid  aCde. 

Climate  and  Di/eafes.^^Thc  air  in  this  plate  is  remarkably 
pure  and  healthy  ;  the  country  being  free  and  open,  neither 

cumberd 

\  Thefe  ftiltft  were  two  branches  ol  a  treci  of  a  proper  ftrengdi,  with  a 
c\th  or  fmall  branch  preferred  in  each,  of  a  fufficient  widenefs  to  receive  a 
perfon'i  foot,  about  i8  or  lo  inches  from  the  root  end.  Upon  which  the 
pcrfoo  being  mounted,  with  a  foot  on  each  cleft  or  proje^ingbraBch^and  the 
top  or  fmall  end  of  the  ftilt  in  each  hand,  they  ilalked  through  the  river  at 
the  fords.    This  they  called  Jfilting. 


1 58  Statijlical  Account 

cumbered'  with  woods,  nor  infefted  with  marlhes  The 
purity  and  fweetnefs  alfo  of  the  water,  (which,  perhaps,  id 
exceeded  by  none,)  coming  through  rock  or  fand,  and  free  of 
metallic  fubftances,  -  muft  alfo  contribute  greatly  to  the 
health  of  the  inhabitants  ;  and  this  bleffing  they  ufually  en- 
joy in  an  uncommon  degree.  As  a  remarkable  inftancc  of 
this,  the  minifter,  in  the  whole  courfe  of  his  parochial  vifita- 
tion  from  houfe  to  houfe,  did  not  find  one  fingle  fick  perfon 
in  the  pariih  ;  and  fcarccly  any  complaining  of  aiimentts,  fuch 
as  coughs,  (hortnefs  of  breath,  &c. ;  though  it  was  in  the 
month  of  December,  when  complaints  of  this  nature  arc 
more  frequent ;  efpecially  among  fuch  as  are  advanced  in 
life.  Some  few  were  indeed  labouring  under  the  natural  in- 
firmities incident  to  old  age  ;  there  being  fcveral  who  were 
arrived  at  the  advanced  age  of  80  and  upwards.  The  falu- 
brity  of  the  air  is  alfo  much  owing  to  the  drynefs  of  the  foil, 
which  readily  imbibes  the  rains  that  fall  upon  it;  while 
the  many  fmall  rivulets,  which  come  down  from  the  higher 
grounds,  carry  off  the  fupcrfluous  waters,  without  allowing 
them  to  ftagnate  on  the  furface,  and  to  breed  noxious  vapours 
to  be  exhaled^  into  the  air.  Epidemical  difeafes  are  therefore 
unknown  here ;  except  thofe  which  are  of  a  common  and 
general  nature.  Such  as  the  fmall-pox,  chin-cough,  &c. 
The  fmall-pox,  at  times,  carries  off  many  of  the  children  ; 
inoculation  not  having  yet  got  much  into  practice. 

Soil  and  Surface^  Sheep^  JVooIy  and  Cultivation. — ^Tlie  foil  irl 
this  pariih  is  of  various  kinds.  That  of  the  Ochil-Iiills, 
which  lie  towards  the  North,  is  partly  rocky,  partly  moffy, 
and  partly  gravel.  .^  The  hills  are  covered  with  a  beauti- 
ful green  ;  but  part  of  the  foil  being  now  wafhed  off  by  the 
ftorms,  in  the  courfe  of  time,  the  rocks  in  fome  places  begiil 
to  appear.     They  afford  excellent  paftufe   for  flieep  ;    of 

whieh 


of  Dollar.  159 

which  about  1640  are  fed  upon  that  part  of  them  belonging 
to  this  parifh.  The  mutton,  and  cfpecially  the  wool,  produ- 
ced upon  the  Ochils,  (as  they  are  fometiraes  called,)  is  confi- 
dered  as  of  a  fuperior  quality ;  particularly  that  upon  the  farm 
called  Craiginnatty  which  is  the  property  of  the  Duke  of  Ar- 
gyll. Towards  the  foot  of  the  hills,  the  foil,  in  general,  is 
light  and  gravelly,  cauHng  a  quick  vegetation.  In  dry  fea- 
fon§,  it  is  indeed  apt  to  be  parched  j  but  in  wet  fcafons,  the 
crops  are  moderately  good.  The  greater  part  of  the  flat-ly. 
ing  ground  in  the  bottom  is  likewife  of  a  light  gravely  na- 
nature,  and  ufually  yields  rather  an  early  harveft.  Along 
the  banks  of  the  Dovan,  the  foil  is  moftly  of  the  haugh 
Jiind  •,  and  fome  of  it  a  deep  clay.  Upon  the  fouth  fide  of 
the  Dovan,  the  ground  is  rather  wettifh  and  clayey,  but,  with 
proper  attention  and  culture,  it  is  capable  of  very ,  confidera- 
ble  improvement.  And  fome  of  the  farms,  which  arc  under 
proper  management,  make  very  good  returns. 

Produce^  Seafons^  fe'i:.'*-The  ordinary  crops  raifed  in  this 
parifh,  arc  barley,  oats,  peafc,  beans,  and  potatoes.  There 
is  alfo  fome  wheat  and  hay  ;  but  not  much.  The  ufual  time 
of  fowing  oats,  peafe,  and  beans,  in  this  parifli,  in  ordinary 
feafons,  is  the  months  of  March  and  April,  and  the  barley 
^  in  May.  It  is  ufually  over  by  the  20th  of  the  month. — The 
harveft  commonly  begins  towards  the  end  of  Auguft,  or  be- 
ginning of  September ;  and,  excepting  fome  late  fpots,  is 
over  by  the  tenth  of  Oftober.  As  foon  as  the  barley,  oats, 
and  peafe  are  got  in,  the  potatoes  are  taken  up  and  houfed, 
which  concludes  the  harveft  work. 

Improvements, — Agriculture^  in  this  parilli,  until  within 
thefe  few  years,  has  continued  much  in  the  fame  ftate  that 
|t  was  about  iSo:  years  ago  \  the  feuers,  who  poffefs  the 

greateft 


l6<f  Statijlical  Account 

greateft  part  of  the  parifh,  following  the  fame  (yftem  of 
farming,  that  had  been  handed  down  to  them  by  their  fa- 
thers. What  indeed  proved  an  infurmountable  bar  to  im- 
provement^  was,  the  lands  of  different  proprietors  lying 
interfperfed  with  one  another,  commonly  called  run-rig^ 
which  wss  a  cafe  that  very  much  prevailed  through  many 
parts  of  Scotland  ;  but  it  is  now  hardly  known  in  this  part  of 
the  country.  About  i6  years  ago,  a  very  confiderable  part  of 
the  beft  lands  in  the  pariih,  which  lay  in  tliat  ftate,  were  di- 
vided \  when  the  different  proprietors  got  their  refpc6Mvc 
proportions  of  ground  laid  together,  each  by  itfelf.  This  has 
been  produftive  of  feveral  very  defirabl^  confequences } 
fuch  as,  cutting  off  endlefs  quarrels  and  difputes,  that  were 
continually  taking  place  between  the  different  proprietors,  or 
their  tenants,  about  their  encroaching  or  trcfpafling  upon 
one  another ;  and  fo  eftablifhing  peace  and  harmony  amongfl: 
neighbours,  inilead  of  ftrife  arid  variance,  {t  has  alfo  open- 
ed up  a  door  to  improvements  of  every  kind.  For,  immedia- 
tely upon  the  ground  being  divided,  the  different  proprie- 
tors inclofed  and  fub-divided,  with  ditch  and  hedge,  their  re- 
fpeflive  proportion^  of  land.  And  the  feveral  inclofures  are 
now  alternately  under  oats,  barley,  hay,  pafture,  &c.  to  the 
no  fmall  benefit  of  the  proprietors,  and  the  pleafure  of  the 
traveller-  Some  late  purchafcrs  are  carrying  on  very  confi- 
derable improvements  in  the  modem  ftyle  ;  the  agreeable  and 
beneficial  effects  of  which  are  daily  appearing/ 

Minerals, — This  part  of  the  country  abounds  in  coal,  of 
different  quafities.  Three  coal-works  are  going  on  at  pre- 
feiit  in  this  parifli ;  two  upon  the  South  fide  of  the  Dovan ; 
the  one  at  Mellack,  the  property  of  the  Duke  of  A&gtll  5  the 
other  clofcly.  adjoining  to  it,  but  belonging  to  Lord  Alva. 
Upon  the  North  fide  of  the  Dovan,  and  near  to  the  tow.n 

of 


'  of  Dollar.  i6i 

of  Dollar,  thcce  is  another  coa]-%vork>. belonging  alfo  to  th» 
f  Duke  of  Argyll.     Thefe  works  employ  in  uhole  about   i S 

I  working  people;  befides  a  horfe  gin  for  drawing  the  coals, 

From  thefi  coal-works,  and  thofe  of  Blarngone,  (in  the  pa- 
rifti  of  FoiToway,  but  immediately  upon  the  border  of  this 
pariQi  on  the  S.  E.),very  great  quantities  of  coals  are  annu- 
ally carried  many  miles  into  Stratliern,  on  the  North  fide 
I  of  the  Ochil  hills. — Iron-ftone  is  alfo  found  in  different  parts 

i  of  the  parifli,  and  faid  to  Ue  of  very  excellent  quality.      It  u 

:  working  at  prefent  by  the  Dovan  Company,  who  arc  now  e- 

refting  a  public  work  at  Sauchie,  fome  miles  to  the  weft- 
ward,  in  the  parilh  of  Clackmannan.  *  The  Ochil  hills  pon- 
fift  chiefly  of  whin  (lone  5  but  free-ftonc  alfo  is  found  in  dif- 
fercut  places  of  the  parifh. 

Hills^  RivnIetSy  ijfc. — The  only  hills  in  this  parifh,  are 
the  Ochils.  They  begin  in  the  parifh  of  Dumblane,  imme- 
diately Eaft  from  the  SherriiF-muir,  and  fbetch  in  an  eaflcra 
dircftion  many  miles  into  Fife.  In  this  parifh  they  arc  of 
coufiderable  height  5  perhaps  fome  tlioufand  feet.  They  are, 
as  already  obferved,  of  a  beautiful  green  ;  afford  excellent 
pafture  for  fheep,  and  produce  mutton  of  the  finefl  flavour. 

Vol.  XV.  X  From 


9  Some  time  ago,  a  vein  of  Lead  was  difcovered  in  the  Ochil  hilU,  a  little 
^boTC  the  town  of  Dollar ;  and  wrought  by  a  Coaipany  for  fever al  years. 
From  this  work,  a  confiderable  quaptily,  both  of  Lead  and  of-  Copper  Or«| 
is  faid  to  have  been  (hipped  off  for  Holland.  But  it  is  faid  that  the  Company, 
fomehow  difagreeing  among  themfelves,  gave  it  op.  Neverthelefs,  it  is  be- 
lieved, chat  if  a  Co^p^oy  of  fptrit  were  to  make  a  thorough  trial,  it  might 
turn  to  good  account.  Silver  Ore,  in  confiderable  quantities,  is  likewife 
faid  to  have  been  found  in  the  Glen  of  Carej  or  rather  of  C^n,  on  the  Wefl 
of  Caflle- Campbell ;  but  that  it  did  not  anfwer  the  eipence  Qf  working,  it. 
PffVBLEs,  of  coniidcrable  value,  have  alfo  been  found  upon  ths  t^p  of  a  bill 
*bovc  Caftk-CampbcU,  called  the  IVbitf  W"\ff>> 


i62  Statijiical  Account 

From  their  verdant  fides,  many  beautiful  rivulets  of  the  fin^ 
jcft  vtrater  arc  daily  gliding  down,  for  the  health  and  refrcfli- 
jnent  of  the  inhabitants  who  dwell  below. 

i?o^rfj.T-There  are  two  high- ways  pafiing  through  this 
pariihi  leading  from  Stirling  to  Kinrofs.  The  one  is  upon 
the  fouth  fide  of  the  Dovan  j  and  the  other  upon  the  north 
fide.  That  upon  the  fouth  fide  of  the  Dovan  is  only  in  part 
formed,  but  not  gravelled ;  and  ^s  it  pafles  through  clay 
grounds,  it  is  fcarcely  paflable  in  winter.  But  that  upon  the 
north  fide  of  the  Dovai),  as  it  pafles  alopg  the  foot  of  the  O- 
chil  hills,  where  the  bottom  is  a  hard  channel,  is  equally  firm 
and  pafTable  at  all  feafons  ;  and  therefore  is  mod  frequented. 
^  The  proper  ftage  upon  that  road,  between  Stirling  and  Kin-? 
rofs,  i^  Dollar,  The  greeted  fault  of  it  is,  that  it  is  too  iiar- 
Tow  ;  for,  in  fonie  places,  two  carriages  meeting  can  do  no 
more  than  pafs.  Wer^  it  only  widened  a  little,  nature  has  fuf- 
ficiently  gravelled  it.  They  who  have  marked  it  out  at  firft, 
humouririg  the  xiature  of  the  ground  along  the  *foot  of  the 
hills,  have  formed  it  n^uch  after  the  manner  of  a  ferpen- 
tinc  walk.  It  is  very  much  frequented,  not  only  by  thofe 
who  travel  from  Stirling  to  Kinrofs,  hut  alfo  by  thofe  who 
go  to  Perth,  Dundee,  &c. 

Population. — ^The  population  of  tlii^  parifli  has  decreafed 
very  little  within  thefe  40  years. 

Population  table  of  the  parish  of  Dollar. 

Ko.  of  fouls  in  X  755,  M  recarned  to  Dr  Wcbfter,  -  517 

p^oini792,  •  •  5  TO 

Pecrcafe       7 


o/Dollan  163 

FAioLZiSt  &C.  No.  of  Mcchvlic^  214 

Ko.  of  familks  in  the  town,  51     (viz.) —^  Smiths,      -  3 

—  Ditto  in  the  country,  71     —  Mafons,                •  » 
— — .  Secedert  of  all  denomina-            »—  Wrights^  or  joiners,  2 

tioos,             -                   17  —-Weaken,  .               S 

Ages,  and  Sizes.    Mai,  Fern.  Tvt.  — — .  Tailors,  .'                  4 

Children  under  5          a?     25      5a  — —  Shoe-makers,  "-        a 

—  Between  5  and  10    30     38      68  ^—  Dyers,  -                » 

Between  lo  and  ao    31      37      68  Coopers,  .             t 

Perfons  aged  ao  and                                 ■■  Bakers,  i  I 

upwards,  *  '  3a»         *■  Batchen^  .  * 

—  a4 

Total  510    —.—  Carters,  4  I 

Conditions,  PaotissiONS,  &c.        —  Excife  officets,  .  t 

No.  of  proprietors,  i  29    Keepers  of  public  h<Jnfti,         * 

Minifters,  -  I    -— •  Male  ferrants,  .  SO 

— -  School-maftors,  -  I     —  Female  ditto,  .  a9 

-  Servants,  chiefly  men,  em- 
ployed at  the  bleach-field, 
in  the  heat  of  the  feafoo,    50 

—  Poor  on  the  roU,  yearly,         ^ 
Extract  from  the  Register  of  Births,  Marriages^ 

and  DEATHS,>r  thf  lajl  ten  years,  vi%.from  the  Jirft  of  Ja^ 
fiuary  1 783,  to  the  Jirft  of  January  1 7^3, 


Merchants, 

a 

Miners, 

x8 

Moficians, 

4 

Corn  millers. 

a 

Tears. 

Births. 

Marriages. 

Deathsi 

1783 

13 

3 

H 

1784 

'4 

4 

.»78S 

\6 

4 

itf 

1786 

9 

2 

14 

1787 

12 

i 

14 

1788 

\6 

4 

10 

1789 

»9 

d 

6 

179a 

12 

6 

It 

1 79 1 

It 

•4 

»? 

1792 

2t 

0 

9 

■k— 

— 

-^— 

Total 

143 

35 

119 

Annual  average  i^-^t 

2A 

"?* 

' 

Prrvj/Stni 

1 64  Statijlical  Accotmt 

Provifions  attd  Labonr. — ^Thc  price  of  barley,  oafa,  meal, 
&c.  arc  regulated  by  the  fiars  of  Clackmannan,  the  head 
town  in  the  county.  The  price  of  butcher  meat  is  ufually 
from  3cl.  to  4  f  d.  per  lib.  Dutch  weight ;  a  good  hen  felis  at  is  5 
chickens  from  4d.  to  6d  each,  according  to  their  age  and 
fize  ;  eggs  from  3d.  co  4d.  per  dozen,  f  The  ordinary  price 
of  butter  at  prefcnt  is  (x\.  per  lib  ;  cheefe  3^.  The  wages 
of  men  labourers  are  from  lod.  to  is.  per  day}  in  har- 
veft,  they  receive  13d.  or  i/\A^ per  day;  and  for  cutting 
hay,  IS.  6d.  The  wages  of  women  who  work  without 
doors,  at  hay-making,  weeding  potatoes,  &c.  are  6d.  per 
day ;  except  in  harveft,  wlieu  they  receive  1  od.  per  day  :  out  of 
which  wages,  both  men  and  ^omen  furnifh  their  own  pro- 
ViFions.  The  average  annual  wages  of  farm  fervants,  of 
men  that  are  able  to  hold  the  plough,  thre(h  the  barn,  &c. 
when  they  eat  in  the  houfe,  are  6 1 ;  and  2 1.  10  s.  for  wo- 
iVien,  A  mofon'd  wages  are  from  i  s.  8d.  to  2  s.  per  day ; 
a  Wright's,  or  joiner's  wages,  from  i  s.  6d.  to  1  s.  8d ;  a  tail- 
or's wages,  8d  ;  and  a  flater's,  2  s.  per  day* 

Bitachfields  and  Mills. — ^Thcre  is  a  very  fine  bleachfield  in 
this  pariih  beautifully  fituated  on  the  banks  of  the  Dovan.  It 
was  eredled  by  Mr  William  Haig,  the  prefent  proprietor,  in  . 
the  year  1787.  The  machinery,  which  is  excellent,  is  driven 
by  water  from  the  Dovan,  while  the  canals,  boilers,  &c.  are 
plentifully  fupplied,  at  all  feafons,  with  the  fined  filtrated " 
water  from  the  hills.  The  trade  of  this  field  has  much  in- 
creafed  fince  its  firll  commencement.  For  the  firft  and 
fecond  years,  there  were  fcarcely  6  acres  of  ground  under 
cloth.  Whereas,  in  the  prefent  year,  1793,  there  are  20  acres 
covered  with  it.  The  greateft  part  of  the  cloth,  bleached  at 
this  field,  is  the  diaper,  or  table  linen  of  Dunfermline,  the 

firft 

t  Tin  within  thcfc  two  or  three  years,  a  hen  might  have  been  bought  for 
9d;  chickens  for  4d.  per  pair  \  and  eg^s  for  3d.  per  dozen. 


I 

i 


9/ Dollar.  ifi5 

fifft  town  in  Sntaiffj  (we  may  even  fay  in  the  World^  for 
this  manufaflure  ;  the  table  linen  made  there  being,  both  in 
point  of  quality  and  vatiety  of  patterns,  incomp?iTaWy  fupc- 
rior  to  what  is  to  be  found  any  where  clfe.  Nor  can  any 
place  fupply  the  demands  to  London,  and  other  places  for 
that  article,  upon  the  fame  terms.  Befides,  the  author  is 
well  informed,  that  improvements  are  daily  making  in  feve- 
ral  branches  of  that  bufinefs,  which  promife  to  be  of  great 
fervice  with  regard  to  the  elegance  of  the  patterns  *.  The 
new  chemical  method  of  bleaching,  by  the  oxygenated  muriatic 
acidf  has  been  tried  at  this  .field  with  much  fucceis.  In  the 
year  1 790,  Mr  Haig  gained  a  premium  from  the  Honourable 
Board  of  Truftees  for  that  method  of  bleaching.  Since  that 
time,  he  hath  made  feveral  valuable  difcoveries,  both  as  to 
the  preparation  and  application  of  this  acid,  and  finds  it  very 
nfeful ;  particularly  at  the  end  of  the  (eafon,  when  the  fuu 
fo  greatly  lofes  its  influence.  He  then  finilhes  off  goods  by 
this  method  of  bleaching,  which  otherwife  could  not  be 
done  until  the  next  year.  By  this  method,  he  bleaclies  cotton 
goods  through  the  whole  feafon ;  and  finds  it  much  better 
adapted  for  cotton  than  for  linen.  In  this  parifh  there  are 
two  mills  for  grain,  one  of  them  has  machinery  for  making 
biirley,  and  rollers  for  grinding  malt.  There  are  alfo  two 
waulk  mills  for  fcouring  cloth,  &c. 

Churchy  School^  and  Poor — ^Thc  Duke  of  Argyll  is  fuperior 
and  patron  ■  as  well  as  titular  of  the  tithes.    The  value  of 

the 

*  Some  light  cotton  goods  have,  £or  fonie  yeirs  pad,  been  fent  here  from 
Glafgow ;  aad,  by  reafoR  of  the  exceeding  finenefs  of  the  water,  have  been 
retained  with  a  mod  ezceUent  colour ;  very  much  to  the  fatisfaiflion  of  the 
employers. 

*  The  greatefi  part  of  the  patifh  was  formerly  the  property  of  that  family* 
But  in  the  year  1605,  it  was  feued  out  by  AftCHiBAtD  Earl  of  Argtll, 

«iid 


i66        ,  Statifiical  Account 

the  living,  cxcltifivc  of  the  manfe  and  glebe,  has,  for  fome 
years  paft  been  confidered,  at  an  average,  to  be  about  80 1. 
The  church  was  rebuilt  in  the  year  1775,  and  is  confidered 
as  very  neat  for  a  country  church,  llie  manfe,  at  prefent, 
is  out  of  repair. — Mr  John  M*Arbrea,  the  parifli  fchool-maf- 
tcr,  teaches  Englifh,  Latin,  writing,  arithmetic,  &c.  and  is 
much  refpcfted.  His  fixed  falary  is  only  lool.  Scotch,  but 
he  draws  the  intereft  of  560  merks  Scotch,  of  funk  money, 
befides  perquifitcs,  as  precentor  and  fcflion  clerk,  %  &c. — The 
poor  upon  the  roll,  arc  fupported  by  the  public  collcftions 
on  fabbath,  and  the  interdl  of  feveral  fums  of  money, 
funk  by  different  perfonsf  for  that  purpofe.  They  re- 
ceive their  ftated  allowance  monthly,  which  amounts  tp  about 
17I.  Sterling  per  annum  \  befides  occafional  fupplies  perfons 
or  families  in  diftrefs,  which  amount  to  about  4 1.  or  5  L 
Sterling  more.  There  have  been  no  beggars  in  this  parifii 
in  the  memory  of  man. 

Anttquities, 

and  Dsme  Agnes  Douglas,  Countefs  of  Argyll,  referruig  only  Cafllo* 
Can]pl>ell»  and  two  farms  in  the  neighbourhood. 

\  The  fchoolmailers,  eftablifhed  in  this  parifb,  hiye,  from  time  immemo<^ 
rial,  been  men  of  a  liberal  education,  and  feveral  men  Or  eminence  have  been 
taught  at  this  fchool.  Many  of  Mr  M*Arbrka's  fcholars  fill  refpedable 
places  in  the  church,  both  in  the  eflablifhment  and  the  feceflion.  The  fchool 
was  ereded  in  the  reign  of  King  Guar  lis  1.  as  appears  from  the  decreet  of 
locality,  dated  1640,  for  too  merks  Scotch.  In  z;66,  the  heritors  added  50 
merks.  The  above  joo  merks  were  funk  by  one  Akcui bald  Patersoiyi 
merchant  in  Edinburgh  July  18,  1652;  and  the  other  60  by  one  Kirk,  in 
Dollar. 

f  Mr  John  Gray  was  ordained  In  the  year  1709.  He  was  the  firft  that  wai 
fettled  in  this  parilh  after  the  Revolution.  He  was  connnonly  flilcd  the  Baron ; 
from  his  having,  while  minider  here,  purchafed  two  baronies  of  land  :  Firft, 
that  of  Teaffcs  in  Fyfc,  for  which  he  paid  upwards  of  3,333  1.  Sterling.  Af- 
fcrwarda  he  purchafed  the  barony  of  FolToway,  in  Pcrthihire,  for  which  he 

fai4 


of  Dollar.  167 

Antiquities. — In  the  neighbourhood  of  the  town  of  Dollar, 
there  arc  two  little  round  mounds  * ,  about  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  diftant  from  each  other.  But  the  principal  antiquity  in 
this  parifli,  is  the  venerable  remains  of  Castle  Campbell f : 

anciently 

paid  upwards  of  1,611 1.  Sterling.  At  his  death,  jic  left  for  the  ufc  of  the 
pool  in  this  parifli,  300  xnerks  Scotch  money. — MITsJean  Gt.iY,  his  only 
child,  of  refpedable  memory,  fomc  few  years  before  her  death,  which  happen- 
ed in  the  year  1791,  fold  both  of  thefc  baronies  of  land ;  that  of  Tcafles  for 
i^ySQoX.  Sterling,  and  that  of  Foffaway  for  6,500 1.  Sterling ;  amounting  iu 
whole  to  ao,ooo  L  Sterling.  At  her  death  ihc  left  many  confiderablc  lega- 
cies :  among  thcfe  there  was  50I.  Sterling  to  the  poor  of  this  parifh,  and  a 
very  elegant  folio  bible  to  the  kirk-fcilion,  for  the  ufe  of  the  minillcr. 

•  In  the  one  of  thcfe,  fome  years  ago,  were  found  two  ump,  filled  with 
human  bones ;  but  upon  wha^occafion,  or  by  whom  they  were  depofitcd  there, 
is  not  known.  The  other  mound,  remains  in  the  fame  (late  it  hath  been  time 
immemorial. — ^Towards  the  end  of  the  lad  century,  a  man  was  burnt  for 
a  wizard,  at  the  foot  of  the  Gloom  Hill,  not  many  yards  from  the  town  of 
Dollar, 

f  It  would  fiiem  not  to  be  now  known,  vahen  or  by  vobem  this  venerabb 
pile  of  building  was  firft  exeded.  But  the  ruins  plainly  (hew,  that  it  had 
been  defigned  for  a  place  of  ftrength  ;  and  therefore  wa&  probably  built  in 
the  turbulent  d^ys  of  old,  when  family  feuds  fo  unhappily  prevailed  among 
the  Scotch  barons.  Nor  can  we  difcover  the  precife  period  when  it  camt: 
into  the  pciTcfiion  of  the  family  of  Argyll  :  But,  from  the  inveutary  of  their 
titles,  that  family  appears  to  have  pofleiTed  that  barony,  and  the  l^nds  belong- 
to  it,  called  the  Loans uip  or  Campbell,  fo  far  back  as  the  year  1465.  The 
lands  were  then  held  of  the  biihop  of  Dunkeld.  Formerly,  it  went  bjr  the 
came  of  the  Castle  op  Gloom.:  but  for  what  reafon,  we  are  not  certain 
Tradition,  indeed,  which  wifhes  to  inform  us  of  every  thing,  reports,  that  it 
was  fo  called  from  the  following  circumAance :  A  daughter '  of  one  of  our 
Scotch  Kings,  who  then  refided  at  Dunfermline,  happening  to  fall  into  dif-« 
grace  for  fome  improper  behaviour,  was,  by  way  of  punilhment,  fent  and 
confined  in  this  caille ;  and  flie,  (not  reliftiing  her  fituation,  which  probably 
might  be  in  fome  vault  or  other)  faid,  that  it  was  a  gloomy  prifvtk  to  her. 
Kdice,  fays  traditioib,  it  came  to  be  called  the  Caftle  of  Gloom.  Very  near  to 

it 


i68  Statijiical  Jccount 

anciently  the  occafional  refidencc  of  the  Noble  Family  of  Ar- 
gyll :  a  family  which,  for  ages,  has  been  eminently  diftin- 

guifhed 

it  on  the  Coaft,  there  is  a  green  hill,  which  ftill  goes  hj  the  name  of  Glctm* 
ffiU,  the  property  of  Mr  John  Moir,  writer  to  the  fignet. 

And  now  that  we  have  mentioned  tradition,  we  (hall  prefent  the  reader 
with  an  anecdote  concerning  this  place,  fiom  the  fame  fource,  which,  perhaps, 
may  be  more  curious  than  true.  In  going  down  from  the  caftle,  towards  the 
point  of  the  rock  which  overhangs  the  glens,  there  is  a  paiTage  cut  down 
through  the  rock  to  the  fide  of  the  burn,  in  the  bottom  of  the  glen.  Thii 
paflage  is  faid  to  be  from  top  to  bottom  more  than  loo  feet  deep,  and  fix  feet 
tvide.  The  defign  of  it  was  to  get  water  conveyed,  or  brought  up  from  the 
burn  or  rivulet  below,  in  the  time  of  a  fiegc.  This  feems  the  more  likely,  as 
it  appears  to  have  been  cut  out  with  fteps,  which  are  now  moftly  filled  up 
with  earth.  This  paflage,  partly  from  the  tr^es,  9ad  partly  from  the  fiight- 
ful  rocks  overhanging  it,  it  now  become  fo  dark  and  gloC>my,  that  a  perfon 
can  fee  but  a  very  little  way  down  into  it :  and  indeed,  to  look  into  it,  would 
be  fufficicnt  to  make  a  perlbn  of  weak  nerves  fliudder.  It  is  called  Kemt's 
ScoR£  or  Cu  TT,  from  its  having  been  made  by  one  of  that  naune;  who  is  faid 
to  have  been  a  man  of  gigantic  iUtore  and  llrcngth,  and  at  the  fame  time  of 
a  very  bold  and  refolate  temper.  It  it  reported,  that  he  bad  conmiittcd  many 
depFedatioDB,  and  at  lafl  was  £o  daring  as  to  enter  the  p;dace  at  Dunfermline^ 
and  carry  off  the  King's  dinner;  but  that  a  yaung  nobleman,  who  happened 
to  be  in  difgrace  for  improper  behaviour  towards  the  King's  daughter,  hear- 
ing of  it,  purfued  the  faid  Kemp,  and  having  cut  off  his  head,  threw  the  body 
to  to  the  water  of  Boyan,  a  little  above  the  back  mill,  and,  as  his  name  wiu 
William,  fo  the  place  where  this  happened,  is  called  Willie's  Pool,  to 
this  day.  But  on  his  carrying  the  head  with  him  to  Court,  he  obained  his 
pardon,  and  was  received  into  favour  again. 

But  to  return  to  the  caftle,  thac  ancient  ieat  of  the  Argyll  Family  :  The 
name  was,  by  an  a6l  of  the  Scotch  Parliament,  in,  or  before  the  year  I493| 
«:hanged  to  that  of  the  CafiU  of  CampbeUy  by  which  name  it  has  ever  fince  been 
denominated.  It  is  reported,  that  this  was  amongft  the  firft  of  thole  places 
in  Scotland,  where  the  facrament  of  the  Lord's  Supper  was  difpenfcd,  after 
the  Reformation.  And  it  is  certain,  from  his  own  hiilory,  that  the  famous 
Jo  UN  K.so]^,  the  Scotch  reformer,  did  preach  here.  For  he  tells  us,  that,  up- 
on hia  being  called  over  by  the  English  Congregation  at  Geneva,  who  had 
choTeo  him  for  their  paflor  i  he  fent  o?er  hit  family  befiore  him,  but  he  him- 

fclf 


of  Dollar.  169 

guifbed  for  their  attachmeat  to  Teligioh>  liberty,  and  patrioMi 
tifm.  Arid  the  prefent  worthy  head,  and  reprcfcntativc  of 
that  noble  Family,  treading  in  the  ftcps  of  his  illuftrious  an- 
ceftors,  dignifies  and  adorns  the  exalted  (tation  which  he  fills* 
By  the  lapfe  of  time,  and  the  violence  of  ftorms,  a  very  con- 
fiderable  part  of  Caftle-Campbell  is  now  fallen  down  ;  an^ 
other  parts  of  it  are  nodding  over  their  foundations.  The 
.  tower  is  yet  nearly  entire.  The  afcent  is  by  a  fpiral  ftair^ 
which  is  continued  to  the  top.  It  \%  viCted  by  mod  (Irang* 
ers  who  come  here  ;  and  though  it  is  a  pretty  fatiguing  wall^ ' 
Up  to  it,  yet  when  they  reach  the  top  of  the  tower,  which  is  of 
confiderable  height,  they  are  much  pleafed,  not  (>nly  with  the 
Vol.  XV.  Y  ^  view, 

felf  remained  behind  io  Scotland,  for  fomie  tiine ;  during  T»^hich,  he  pafled  to 
Archibald,  whom  he  ftilc*  «  the  Old  Earl  of  Aiotll,"  then  rcfiding  at 
the  Cattle  of  Campbell,  and  there  he  taught,  or  preached,  certain  dayi.  It  k 
&ot  improbable,  therefore,  that  he  difpenfed  the  Sacrament  of  the  lord's  Spp- 
per  there,  at  the  fame  time.  Oae  idf  the  company,  who  was  then  ttayini^ 
with  the  Earl  at  Cattle  Campbell,  was  the  laird  of  Glenorchy,  one  of  the  an- 
cettors  of  the  prefect  family  of  BaKADALBANc  ;  who  importuned  the  Earl  td 
deiire  Mr  Knox  to  ftay  fome  time  with  them;  but  Mr  Knox  could  not  con« 
fent  to  it.  This  AacHiBititO  was  the  4th  Earl  of  AaorLL ;  and  is  iaid  to  have 
been  the  firtt  man  of  qu^ty  who  embraced  the  Proteftact  Religion  in  Scej^ 
iand,  and  contributed  all  in  his  power  to  bring  about  the  Reformation. 

The  Cattle  of  Campbell  continued  to  be  the  occattoDal  relldencc  of  the 
family  of  Argyll,  ^s  appears  from  the  fervices  ^hichthe  TaflaU  were  obliged; 
by  their  charters,  to  perform  to  the  family,  when  rcfiding  there  ;  until  that 
ItiagnificeUt  building  was  burnt  down  by  the  Marquis  of  Montkos^,  aboai 
the  year  1644  ;  and  ever  fioce  it  has  been  in  ruiiis.  And  not  only  the  Caf. 
tie  of  Campbell,  but  the  whole  of  the  pariihes,  both  of  Dollar  and  Muckart; 
were  burnt ,  the  inhabitants  being  vaflals  of  the  family  of  Argyll,  excepting 
one  houfe  in  Dollar,  which  they  imagined  to  belong  to  the  Abbey  of  Dun« 
fermline.  There  was  likewife  only  one  hotife  faved  from  the  flames,  iit 
Muckart ;  ^hich  they  imagined  to  be  in  the  pariih  of  Foflbway  ;  being  near- 
ly adj«>ining  to  it.  Befides  that,  there  waa  a  (heep-hofufe  that  efcaped  thQ 
general  conflagration.  Every  othci  houfc  in  both  pariflies  was,  by  thtt 
brahams,  burnt  to  the  ground. 


170  Statiftical  Account 

view,  but  more  particularly  with  the  furrounding  fcene, 
which  is  truly  enchanting. 

Romantic  Scenery  around  the  Cojlle, — ^Thc  fituation  of  thefc 
venerable  ruins  is  fomewhat  retired  backwards  amongft  the 
hills,  with  a  beautiful  opening  before  it,  as  it  were  a  kind  of 
vifla,  through  which  to  view  the  plains  below  :  And  being 
pretty  high,  it  commands  a  confiderably  cxtenfive  profpeft 
towards  the  Forth,  and  the  adjacent  country.  It  is  fituated 
upon  the  top  of  a  round  mound,  which  would  feem  to  have , 
been  partly  formed  by  the  hand  of  nature,  and  partly  finifli- 
ed  bf  art.  It  (lands  a  little  back  from  the  point  pf  a  high 
rock ;  having  a  deep  ravine  or  glen  upon  each  hand ;  with  very 
fteep  banks,  whofe  declivity  commences  from  the  very  foot 
of  the  walls  on  both  fides,  and  is  almod  wholly  inacceffible. 
In  the  bottom  of  the  glens,  run  murmuring  rivulets  of  the 
pureft  water,  which  come  down  from  the  mountains  behind^ 
and  unite  their  dreams  immediately  below  the  cafUe*  Each 
of  the  rivulets  furnifhes  a  beautiful  cafcade,  to  entertain  the 
eye  of  their  vifitants,  and  fomewhat  reward  them  for  the  fa- 
tigue they  have  had  in  climbing  the  hill.  The  mound  on 
which  the  caftle  ftands,  was  formerly  disjoined  from  the 
mcuntiins  behind,  with  a  fofse,  or  ditch,  {helving  down  to 
the  bottom  of  the  glen  on  both  fides,  which  renders  it  almoft 
inacceflible  on  every  fide  \  the  entry,  then,  being  by  a  draw- 
bridge, which  was  let  d^wn  or  taken  up  as  occafion  requir* 
ed.  The  banks  of  the  glens,  on  both  fides,  are  beautifully  a- 
dorhed  with  natural  woods,  which  nearly  cover  the  faces  of 
the  rugged  rocks  with  which  this  romantic  fcene  is  inter- 
fperfed.  It  is  almoft  furroundcd  with  hills.  Immediately 
behind  it,  is  the  hill  called  the  White  Wifp ;  which  fo  much 
overtops  all  its  fellows,  that  it  furniflies  a  rich  and  extenfive 
profpe£l.    From  this  elevated  fituation^  looking  towards  the 

South, 


o/Doltar.  ill 

Soutli,  may  be  fefen  the  Fmh  of  Forth,  with  the  adjacent 
•  country,  as  far  as  the  hill  of  Tiutoc  in  Clydcfdalc.    Then 

r  turning  to  the  North,  one  fees  the  moft  part  of  the  fhires  of 

Perth  and  Fife,  as.  far  Eaft  as  Dundee,  and  the  German  O* 
cean ;  with  the  Lothians  on  the  oppofite  fide  of  the  Forth. 
A  little  to  the  South-Weft  of  the  White  Wifp,  is  the  place 
called  the  King's  Seat ;  where,  according  to  tradition,  the 

I  kings  of  Scotland,  then  rcfiding  at  Dunfermline,  fat,  and 

viewed  the  hunting  of  the  wild  bears,  which  then  haunted  a- 
mongft  thefe  hills  ;  whence  feveral  places,  particularly  in  the 
farm  of  Craiginnan,  immediately  above  the  Caftlc,  arc  named, 
fome  of  them,  the  Bears  den^  and  others,  the  Bear's  Knowy 
to  this  day.  Thus,  the  fcene  around  this  ancient  feat  of 
Campbell,  confifting  of  rocks,  and  woods,  and  glens,  and 
mountains,  contains  a  pleafing  mixture  of  the  beautiful,  the 
pifturefque,  and  the  awfully  romantic. 

Literary  Shepherd. — ^There  is  living  at  prefcnt  in  this  pa- 
rifh,  in  a  very  advanced  age,  a  man  who  was  bred  up,  and 
lived  merely  as  a  fhepherd,  and  who  received  only  a  common 
education ;  and  yet  pofTefTes  a  valuable  library  of  books,  con- 
taining upwards  of  370  volumes  ;  confifting  of  folios,  quar- 
tos, o£lavos,  duodecimos,  and  decimo-quartos.  They  are  u- 
pon  many  different  fubje£bs,  as  divinity,  hiftory,  travels,  voy« 
ages,  &c.  befides  magazines  of  various  kinds,  fuch  as  the  Scots, 
the  Univerfal,  and  the  Chriftian  magazines  ;  a  complete  fet 
of  the  Spedator,  Guardian,  Tatlcr,  Rambler,  &c.  They 
are  all  of  them  his  own  chufing  and  purchafmg.  They 
are  neatly  boupd,  and  lettered  on  the  back.  His  name  is 
upon  a  printed  ticket,  and  pafted  on  the  in  fide  of  the  board 
of  each  volume  \  witli  a  mark,. generally  of  blue  paper,  cut  on 
purpofe,  and  placed  in  each  volume,  to  prevent  folding  in  the 
leaves.    The  books  are  all  clean,  and  in  excellent  order.  Be- 

Y  2  fides 


172  Statijlical  Atcount 

'fidi*s  thcfei  \\^  has  feveral  volumes  of  pamphlets,  &c.  lying 
in  numbers  unbound.  His  name  b  John  Christie  :  ht 
was  born  in  this  parifh,  and  baptized  on  the  itth  of  O^obcr 
tyifti  and  has  lived  in  it  from  his  infancy.  His  brother  Wil- 
•liam^  and  his  fifter  Margaret,  ^o  are  a  &w  years  younger, 
live  in  the  fame  houfe  with  himi  and  ail  the  three  remain 
unmarried. 

General  Ciaraffer,  &c. — ^The  people  are  foberj  regular,  and 
.|nduflrious  in  their  different  profeffions  and  employments  ; 
and  live  in  peace  and  harmony  with  one  another.  The  com- 
mon employment  of  the  women,  except  fuch  as  are  engaged 
wijth  farmers  for  husbandry  work,  is  that  of  fpining  wool  for 
the  manufacturers  in  Stirling,  Bannockburn,  &c.  They  all 
enjoy,  in  their  refpe£kive  ftations,  a  reafonable  (hare  of  the  con« 
veniences  and  comforts  of  life ;  and  fome  feem  well  contented 
with  the  condition  in  which  Providence  has  placed  them. 
Tliey  are  much  of  the  ordinary  fize,  and  fpeak  the  Englifh 
language  tolerably  well,  without  any  ^remarkable  jHrovincial 
dialc£^. 


NUMBER 


I 


I 


of  Mordington.  173 

NUMBER    XL 

PARISH  OF    MORDINGTON. 

(County  of  Berwick,  Presbytery  of  Chirnside,  SiNop 
o?  Merse  and  Teyiotdale.) 

By  tbt  Rev^  M  Georgs  Drummomo,  MinhUn 


Situation^  Ferm^  Extent^  EreB'ton^  Etjm&l$gy^  (5*. 

HIS  parilh  is  Gtuated  in  the  S.  E.  corner  of  the  coun- 
ty of  Berwick.  Its  borders  arc  waflied  on  the  South  by  the 
river  Whitadder,  and  on  the  Eaft  by  the  German  Ocean, 
near  which  it  joins  the  lands  belonging  to  the  town  of  Ber- 
wick upon  Tweed,  commonly  called  Berwick  Bounds.  It» 
form  is  irregular,  much  refembling  the  letter  g. — Its  length 
from  S.  to  N.  is  between  3  and  4  miles ;  its  breadth  towards 
Ae  northern  extremity  is  abore  two  miles,  though  at  one 
place,  towards  the  South,  it  is  only  the  breadth  of  the  mini- 
flei's  glebe,  which  is  all  that  feparates  the  pariih  of  Foulden 
from  the  Berwick  bounds.  Its  original  extent  was  very  fmall, 
confiding  only  of  the  barony  of  Mordington,  and  the  cftatc 
of  Edrington,  till  the  year  1650 ;  when  the  lands  of  Lammer- 
ton,  (of  much  greater  extent  than  the  whole  of  what  before 

that 


1 74  Statijiical  Account 

that  period  conftitutcd  the  pari(h,)  were  disjoined  from  the 
parifti  of  Ayton,  and  annexed  to  Mordington.  Lammcrton 
had  originally  been  either  a  feparate  paiifh,  or  a  chapel  of 
cafe  to  Ayton.  •  The  building  in  which  public  worfliip 
was  performed  ftill  remains,  and  is  now  the  burying  place 
of  the  family  of  Lamerton.  The  writer  of  this  article  has 
not  been  able  to  learn  the  etymology  of  Mordington.  Lam-' 
tneri§n  is  probably  derived  from  the  French,  ia  mer^  cxpref- 
Cve  of  its  fituation,  being  immediately  on  the  fea  fide^ 

Surface  and  Soil, — ^On  the  South,  towards  the  river  Whit- 
adder,  the  ground  is  flat,  and  rifes  by  a  gentle  and  gradual 
afcent  to  the  North,  for  more  than  half  the  length  of  the 
parifh ;  when  it  attains  a  very  confiderable  elevation  above 
the  level  of  the  fea,  to  which  the  lands  again  gradually  def- 
cend  on  the  eaft  of  this  ridge*  For  fome  fpace  from  the 
Whitadder,  the  foil  is  a  ftifF  clay,  well  adapted  for  wheat 
and  beans ;  from  thence  to  the  fea  fide,  the  land  is  a  ligjht 
loam,  on  a  rotten  rocky  bottom,  which  renders  it  excellent 
for  raifing  turnips  and  found  for  grazing  flieep.  The  moft 
elevated  part  of  the  ridge  is  thin  and  poor,  though  the  great- 
eft 

*  The  charch  or  chapel  of  Lammirtok,  »  noted  to  have  been  the  place 
where  King  Jamrs  IV.  of  Scotland  was  married  to  Margaret,  daughter 
of  Henrt  Vlh  of  Kngknd,  in  the  yCRt  1503  ;  which  paved  the  way  for  the 
happy  Union,  fir  ft ,  of  the  two  Crowns,  and  afterwarda  of  the  two  kingdoas. 
Some  alledge,  that  it  was  built  on  purpofe  for  the  celebration  of  that  mar* 
riage.  A  tradition  has  long  prevailed  in  this  part  of  the  country,  that,  on  ac- 
count of  the  ceremony  of  his  marriage  having  been  performed  in  this  chapel^ 
the  King  of  Scotland  granted  to  the  clergyman  of  this  pariih,  and  his  fuc- 
ceflbrs,  in  all  time  coming,  the  liberty  of  marrying  ^ee^  ivHbwt  prodamaHom. 
•fbar.mu  It  does  not  appear,  however,  from  any  of  the  hiftories  of  thefe 
times,  which  the  author  has  confulted,  that  there  is  any  foundation  for  thji^ 
tradltioA. 


of  Mt)rdington  175 

eft  part  of  it  has  been  plowed^  and  It  feems  all  capable  of  cul- 
tiration. 

Climate  and  Seafom.-^The  drynefs  of  the  foil,  and  its  vi- 
cinity to  the  fea,  render  the  air  pure  and  healthy,  and  ocqa- 
fion  a  quick  and  early  vegetation.  There  are  no  difeafes  pe- 
culiar to  this  diftri£t.  In  the  lower  part  of  the  pari(h,  as  in 
mod  of  the  flat  grounds  in  this  part  of  the  country,  the  ague 
•w^s  formerly  prevalent  among  the  lower  clafles  of  the  peo- 
pla.  The  caufe  of  that  diftemper,  which  arofe  chiefly  from 
the  exhalation  of  the  vapours  from  the  ftagnated  water,  in 
wet  and  marfliy  grounds,  being  now  in  a  great  meafure  re- 
moved, by  the  mode  that  is  fo  generally  adopted  through  this 
county  of  draining  and  incloHng  the  fields,  the  difeafe  Is 
lefs  frequent.  And  the  fame  reafon  may  perhaps  be  given 
for  the  decrcafe  of  comfumptive  complaints,  throughout  the 
whole  of  the  lower  parts  of  Berwick-fliire.  The  prejudices 
of  the  country  people  in  this  quarter,  againft  inoculation  for 
the  fmall-pox,  are  gradually  wearing  away  5  and  confequently 
that  diftemper  is  becoming  much  more  mild,  and  lefs  def- 
tru£tive  than  formerly.  Though  the  inhabitants  in  general 
are  healthy  and  robuft,  yet  there  have  not  been  many  re- 
markable inftances  of  longevity  in  this  pariOi.  Some  faow€« 
ver  have  appeared. 

Agriculture. — ^The  fituation  of  this  diftrift,  as  well  as  the 
foil  of  a  very  confiderable  of  it,  is  peculiarly  favourable  to 
the  purpofes  of  agriculture-,  the  lands,  in  general,  being  of 
a  dry  and  manageable  foil,  which  the  (kilful  farmer  can  turn 
to  the  greateft  advantage ;  and  the  climate  being  fo  favourable, 
that  grain  of  every  kind,  even  in  the  lateft  and  moft  back- 
ward feafons,  is  commonly  brought  to  full  maturity.  Be- 
fides  which,  li  has  the  command  of  two  of  the  beft  and 

moft 


176  Statiftical  Account 

moft  ufeful  manures,  lime  and  dung  -,  lioth  of  which  arc  to 
be  got  in  the  town  and  neighbourhood  of  Berwick,  which  is 
only  4  niiles  diftant.  Thijfe  local  advantages  have  not  been 
unattended  to,by  thofe  perfons  who  occupy  the  lands.  Great 
quantities  of  lime  are  annually  bought,  and  are  employed 
both  in  improving  the  wade  lands,  and  in  manuring  thofe 
that  are  already  improved.  And  even  dung  is  now  begin- 
ning to  be  brought  in  confiderable  quantities  from  Berwick, 
a  prafticc  which,  if  perfeyered  in,  muft  in  time  greatly  add 
to  the  fertility  of  the  foil  j  and,  notwithftanding  the  expence, 
with  which  the  purchafing  and  driving  of  it  is  attended,  will, 
without  doubt,  ultimately  turn  out  to  the  advantage  both  of 
the  proprietors  and  tenants. 

PrcdtiCi  and  Epfporis.—rHor  is  lefs  attention  paid  to  the 
ipariagament  than  to  the  manuring  of  the  lands.  Unfetter-^ 
64  by  thofe  prejudices,  and  that  obdinale  attachment  to  aa-. 
GJeflt  ca(tom$>  which  are  fo  great  a  bar  to  cultivaticm,  and 
have  fo  much  retarded  the  progref$  of  agriculture  in  other 
parts  of  Scotland,  a  fpirit  of  improvement  as  well  as  of  induf- 
try  is  difcernible  among  the  farmers  ii>  this  and  the  xieigh^ 
bouring  pariOies  :  In  confequence  of  which,  every  fpecies 
both  of  white  and  green  crops  are  raifed,  and,  in  general,  id 
the  greateft  perfeftion  ;  particularly  barley,  oats,  peafc,  tur- 
nips, and  artificial  grafles.  Though  the  foil  is,  in  many  pU* 
ce9,  fuitabk  for  wheat  and  beans»  yet  they  are  raifed  in  fmal* 
Ux  quantities  than  the  other  kinds  of  grain  ;  probably  be^ 
caufe  the  former  does  not  fo  readily  fall  in  with  a  rotation^ 
in  which  green  crops  are  <:hiefly  {ludied,  and  becaufe  there 
is  not;  in  this  part  of  the  coi^ntry,  a  ready  matket  for  the  lat- 
ter. Potatoes  are  raifed  not  only  for  home  confumption,  but 
great  quantities  from  this  neighbourhood  are  «alfo  annually 

fliipped 


tf  Mnrdington.  177 

fliippcd  at  Berwick,  and  fcnt  to  London,  Ncwcaftle,  and  dif- 
ferent parts  of  Yoik-filire.  This  paridi  alfo  produces  a  nrjuch 
greater  quantity  of  grain,  than  is  fuflScicnt  for  the  fubfiftence 
of  its  inhabitants,  which  is  cither  difpofed  of  in  Berwick^ 
i^irhcre  It  generally  meets  with  a  ready  market,  or  fold  to 
the  millers  in  the  neighbourhood,  many  of  whom  carry  on  a 
great  trade  in  itieal,  barley,  &c. 

Turnip  Hushandty, — ^Thc  time  of  fowirtg  and  reaping  the 
dlfFcrcnt  kinds  of  gtain,  is  the  fame  with  that  of  mod  of 
the  other  parifhes  in  the  lower  part  of  Bcrwick-fhire,  witli 
the  advantage  of  being  as  early  as  any  of  them.  Turnips 
are  generally  fown  from  the*  end  of  May  to  the  beginning  of 
July.  Though  they  are  fomctimcs  fown  in  what  is  tailed 
hroad-cajl^  that  is  on  ridges  made  up  in  the  fame  manner  as 
thofe  on  which  barley,  oats,  or  any  other  grain  arc  common- 
ly fown ;  yet  they  aire  more  frequently  raifed  on  drills,  froni 
24  to  30  inches  wide.  This  latter  method  is  preferred,  oii 
account  of  its  giving  an  opportunity  for  hbrfe  hoeing,  and 
thus  occafioning  lefs  manual  labour^  and  coiifequently  lefs 
expence  in  thinning  and  cleaning  them.  When  they  arc 
brought  to  maturity,  which  is  generally  about  the  month  of 
Oftober,  they  arc  made  ufe  of  for  feeding  cattle  and  fhcep, 
either  on  the  grounds  on  >^hich  tliey  are  raifed,  or  on  neigh- 
bouring grafs  fields,  iiito  which  they  are  carried ;  or  they  are 
brought  home  for  the  piirpofe  of  feeding  black  cattle  irf 
houfes  or  (hades.  On  the  light  and  dry  foi!^  the  feeding  of 
(hcep  on  the  ground  where  the  turnips  grow,  is  recloncdL  t 
mod  valuable  improvement,  as  the  land,  Ibofe  and  fnable,' 
botfi  by  nature  and  by  the  frequent  plowing  neceflary  for  raif- 
ing  the  turnip?,  attains,  from  the  conftant  trampling  of  the 
fhcep,  a  fubftancc  and  Iblidity  which  makes  it  highly  Et   for 

Vol.  XV.  Z  plowing  f 


2  7^  Statijlical  Account 

plowing  ;  and  from  the  great  quantity  of  dung  left  on  ftc 
furface,  infures  a  luxuriant  crop  of  grain  and  hay  in  the  fol- 
'  lowing  years.  When  the  turnips  are  brought  home  for  feeding 
cattle  in  the  ftall,  they  likewife  become  a  ufeful  and  a  Yalua- 
ble  crop,  not  only  from  the  immediate  profit  which  arifes 
from  them,  but  alfo  from  the  great  return  of  manure  which 
they  afford  for  fuccecding  crops.     From  the  favourable  na- 
ture of  the  foil,  the  turnip-husbandry  is  conducted  on  an 
extenfive  fcale  in  this,  and  many  of  the  neighbouring  parifhes. 
And  as  great  attention  is  paid  to  the  cultivation,  -fo  great 
improvements  have  of  late  been  made  in  the  conftruftion  of 
the  utenfrls  for  fowing  and  fox  facilitating  the  operations  of 
the  husbandman,  in  rearing  this  ufeful  plant.     The  greateft 
enemy  to  the  culture  of  turnips,  is  a  fmall  infedl,  which  in 
fize  and  Ihape  very  much  refembles  the  flea*     It  comnnonly 
fl^ttacks  the  plants  at  a  very  early  period,  immediately  after 
vthey  begin  to  vegetate ;  and  in  fome  feafons  makes  fuch 
dreadful  havock  among  them,  as  not  only  to  injure,  but  free- 
quently  totally  to  deftroy  the  crop.    The  bed  remedy  againft 
this  evil  is  to  fow  them  early  and  very  thick ;  4  lib.  at  lead 
or  5  lib  of  feed  to  the  EngliCh  acre*    This  feems  a  method 
well'  calculated  to  infure  a  crop  of  turnips.    The  fly  feldom 
remains  many  days  on  the  ground,  and  when  fuch  a  quanti- 
ty of  feed  is  fown,  though  the  firft  growth  may  be  deftroyed, 
yet  as  every  fucceeding  (hower,  or  even  dewy  night,  for  a  con- 
fiderable  time,  occafions  a  frelh  vegetation  of  feed  that  has 
been  buried  deeper  in  the  ground  ;  it  is  next  to  a  certainty 
that  fome  one  of  theie  growths  will  efcape  the  ravages  of  the 
fly,  and  produce  a  fufficicntly  plentiful  crop.     Many  have 
been  tlie  inftances  of  the  propriety  of  this  theory,  in  this  pa- 
ri(b,  within  thefe  few  years.    In  their  more  advanced  (late, 
turnips  are  in  fome  feafons  attacked  by  a  caterpillar.  Though 
the  injury  which  they  receive  from  it  is  frequently  confidera* 

tie. 


of  Mordington.  179 

blf,  yet  it  is  fcldom  fo  great  as  to  occafion  a  total  failure  cf 
the  crop. 

Swedijh  Turnip. — It  may  not  be  improper  in  this  place  to 
mention  that  the  Ruta  Bnga,  or  the  SwediJIj  turnip^  has  been 
cultivated  with  confiderable  fuccefs  by  the  two  heritors  of  this 
parifli.     In  a    country  like  this,  where'  ftock  occupies  fo 
much  attention,  and  renders  fuch  benefit  to  the  farmer, 
'  fomc  root  or  plant  feems  wanting  to  give  to  the  cattle, 
between  the  time  that  the  turnips  begin  to  (hoot,  and  of 
courfe,  to  ceafe  to  afford  nourifliment,  and  the  coming  in  of 
the  grafs*     The  ruta  baga  feems   admirably  calculated  for 
that  purpofe.     For  befides  being  later  of  fliooting  than  -the 
turnip,  it  lofes  not  its  nutritive  qualities  after  it  has  (hot,  but 
retains  all  its  juices  and  folidity  :    Whereas  it  is  well  known 
that  a  turnip,  after  it  has  put  forth  its  flower,  becomes  dry^ 
light,  and  reedy,  and  in  every  refpcfi  un(it  for  feeding  either 
cattle  or  (heep.   Horfes  too  feem  very  fond  of  it  $  a^id  one  (^ 
the  gentlemen  above  alluded  to,  has  this  winter  given  them  to 
his  out- lying  young  horfes,  who  eat  them  with  great  eager- 
tiefs.     He  was  led  to  try  this  experiment,  from  obferVing 
that  when  thefe  young  horfes  broke  out  of  the  field,  they 
conflantly  fed*  on  the  ntta  haga^  though  in  the  fame  (i^ld 
there  was  a  large  quantity  of  turnips,  which  they  never  of- 
fered to  touch.     Another  extraordinary  quality  of  the  ruta 
baga  is,  that  it  feems  impoflible  to  make  it  rot ;  though  bit  or 
trod  upon  by  cattle  or  horfes^  it  never  rots,  but  whatever  part 
of  the  root  is  left,  nay,  if  fcooped  out  to  the  (hell,  it  remains 
perfe£lly  frefh,  and  iii  fpring  puts  out  a  new  i?em.     It  is 
needlefs  to  obferve  that  the  oppofite  of  this  obtains  Witb  [ 
the  turnip.   The  culture  too  of  this  valuable  root  is  perfeftly 
jSmpIe :  When  firft  attempted  in  this  pariih,  the  gentlemen 
Y2  fottowed 


If.  So  Stafifiic^l  Account 

foUo^^red  the  fales  laid  down  in  the  news-papers,  tiz.  Raifing 
the  plants  in  a  hot  bed,  and  then  tranfplanting  them  into, 
the  field.  This  method  never  anfwerell ;  they  rofe  to  no  fize ; 
put  on  their  trying  them  by  the  feed  fown  in  the  field,  and 
managed  in  every  refpeO:  the  fame  as  turnips,  (only  fown  a 
pnonth  earlier)  all  their  expedations  were  gratified,  and 
good  crops  follQwed*  Both  roots  and  leaves  are  alfo  eiccel- 
|ent  for  culinary  purpofes  j  and  for  that  caufei  numbers  of 
people  in  this  neighbourhood  now  raife  a  few  in  their  gar- 
dens for  the  pot.  Before  concluding  this  article,  it  is  w  orth 
pentioning,  as  an  example  of  what  feeding  will  do,  when 
carried  on  according  (o  the  above  fyftem,  by  a  cpnftant  (uc- 
ceflion  of  green  food :  There  is  an  ox  at  prefent  in  the  parifli> 
bred  by  one  of  the  heritors,  which,  though  only^4  years  old, 
is  allowed  by  all  judges  to  be  above  an  hundred  ftones 
weight ;  i.  e.  tjio  weight  of  the  four  quartets  only*  He  ne- 
ver has  been  houfcd,  and  never  got  any  thing  but  turnips, 
grafs,  and  a  little  hay.  His  dam,  when  in  calf  qf  him,  was 
pought  for  6 1.  Sterling. 

Rotatm  ofCropi  — ^The  ufual  rotation  of  crops  is,  firft  oats, 
then  turnips;  after  thefe,  barley  with  grafs  feeds,  which 
makes  the  fucceeding  crops  hay  \  and  the  ground,  upon  which 
It  is  raifed,  is  coinmonly  allowed  to  remain  in  grafs  for  paf- 
ture  fome  years ;  after  which  it  is  again  taken  up,  and  ma- 
paged  according  to  the  above  rotation.  Two  crops  of  oats 
are  fometimes  allowed  after  the  land  has  lain  long  in  grafs : 
^ttt  in  no  other  caff^  are  two  white  crops  allowed  to  fucceed  ^ 
each  othv%  and  the  tenants  are  feldom  permitted  to  have 
inore  than  the  half  of  their  lands  in  tillage.  Wheat  is  gene- 
rally fown  on  the  ftrong  clay  lands  after  plain  fallow ;  and  on 
the  dry  grounds  it  is  fometimes  fown  after  clover,  ley,  and  fome 
times  on  the  lands  where  the  turnip  crop  has  failed.  There  is 

always 


qf  Mordington.  181 

always,  however,  a  great  proportion  of  the  lands  in  grafs ;  and 
as  the  fields  are  generally  laid  down  in  good  order,  they  not  on^ 
ly  afford  greater  profit  to  the  farmer  in  this  ftate,  than  he 
could  derive  from  the  fcanty  produce  of  a  conftant  fucceflioa 
of  com  crops,  but  alio  amply  repay  him  for  the  reft  he  gives 
them,  by  the  luxuriant  crops  which  they  yield  when  taken  upi» 
after  having  been  pafturcd  for  fome  years.  By  this  mode  of 
management,  to  which  the  tenants  arc  bound  down  in  their 
}eafes,  the  lands  are  not  only  kept  clean,  and  freed  from  thofe 
noxious  weeds,  which  are  fo  prejudicial  to  the  grain  fown,  or 
the  plants  raifed  on  them,  but  are  alfo  prevented  from  being 
impoveriihed  by  over-cropping. 

River,  Ftjb,  and  Mills, — ^The  river  Whitaddcr,  which  wa(b. 
es  the  fouthern  boundary  of  this  parifh  abounds  in  trout$, 
eels,  &c*  .  And  at  certain  feafons  of  the  year,  large  quanti- 
ties of  falmon,  and  fi^mqn  trouts,  come  up,  which  afford  good 
fport  to  the  anglers.  In  fpawning  time,  great  numbers  of 
falmon  go  up  the  river,  even  almoft  to  its  fource,  to  depofit 
their  fpawn.  Till  of  late  years,  great  havock  ufed  to  be  made 
among  them  at  that  feafon,  by  the  country  people ;  but  fince 
the  paffmg  an  a£t  of  the  Legiflature,  forpreferving  the  fi(h  iii 
the  Tiver  Tweed  and  the  dreams  running  Jnto  it,  thefe  prac* 
tices  have  been  greatly  checked,  by  the  exertions  of  the  magif- 
trates  and  proprietors,  to  the  great  benefit  of  the  valuable 
fiihings  on  the  Tweed.  On  the  eftate  of  Edington,  befides  a 
mill  for  other  kinds  of  grain,  there  are  two  mills  for  grind- 
ing wheat,  in  which  about  300  bolls  are  every  week  made 
ifito  flour. 

Coaft,  and  Sea  Fijh. — On  the  coaft,  which,  towards  the  £a(t 
of  the  pari(h,  is  very  bdd  and  rocky,  there  are  abundance  of 

'  *        •  aU 


l82  Statiftical  Account 

all  die  kinds  of  (i(h  that  are  to  be  found  in  the  mouth  of 
'  the  Frith  of  Forth,  which  arc  fold  at  very  reafonable  rates. 
Lobftcrs  and  crabs  are  in  plenty,  but  there  are  no  oyftcrs  or 
mufcles.  The  lobftcrs  arc  almoft  all  carried  to  London  by 
fmacks  that  come  along  the  coaft  for  that  purpofe,  at  ftatcd 
interrals. 

Minerals^  Gamgy  bfc. — In  the  rocks  on  the  coaft,  great 
quantities  of  lime-ftone  are  to  be  found,  though  not  of  a 
good  quality  :  Coal  and  iron  ore  alfo  make  their  appearance^ 
aiKl  immenfe  blocks -of  frec-ftone  of  the  fincft  foit.  The 
ufual  kinds  of  game,  which  are  to  be  found  in  thp  lower 
parts  of  Berwick-fhire,  are  here  in  great  plenty.  On  the 
higher  grounds  in  this  parrfli,  dotterels  are  fuppofed  to  ap- 
pear fooner  than  on  any  parts  in  the  fouth  of  Scotland* 
"Woodcocks  are  often  found  in  the  early  part  of  the  feafon, 
pboTy  weak,  and  exhaufted,  probably  frpm  iheir  long  flight 
acTofs  the  German  Ocean. 

Population. — If,  as  is  generally  fuppofed,  the  monopoly  of 
farms,  and  the  abridgement  of  labour,  in  confequence  of  the 
improved  ftate  of  agriculture,  uniformly  operate  to  the 
dimintfliing  the  number  of  the  inhabitants,  certainly  the  dc- 
crcafc  of  the  population  of  this  parifti  ought  of  late  years  to 
have  been  confiderable  ;  as  the  whole  lands,  except  what  arc 
in  the  poircflion  of  the  proprietors  are,  at  prcfent,  farmed  by 
three  tenants,  one  of  whom  is  not  refident,  but  farms  to  a 
confiderable  extent  in  a  neighbouring  parifh.  From  any  en- 
quiries, however,  which  the  incumbent  has  made,  he  dods 
not  find  that  the  decreafc  has  been  fo  great  as  might  have 
been  expefted.  And  he  ftiould  imagine,  that,  if  a  full  inveftir 
gation  were  made  of  the  matter,  there  would  be  lefs  caufe 
than  is  generally  fuppofed,  for  regretting  that  union  of  farms, 

whic4 


of  Mordington*  -  X83 

which  ROW  fo  generally  preraiU  in  this  and  many  odiet 
parts  of  Scotland.  It  would  indeed  be  unlucky,  if  a  mode 
of  farming,  which  muft  be  allowed  greatly  to  increafe  the 
mofl:  ufeful  and  mod  necefTary  commodities  of  a  country^ 
(houid  have  a  tendency  to  diminifh  the  number  of  its  tnha- 
hitants.  For  there  cannot  be  a  doubt,  that  by  the  prefent 
fyftem  of  hulbandry,  which  prevails  in  this  part  of  the  coun- 
try, the  grounds  produce  a  much  greater  quantity  of  every 
fpecies  of  grain,  and  afford  fuftenance  to  double  the  mimber 
of  cattle,  Iheep,  and  (lock  of  every  kind,  than  they  did  be- 
fore this  mode  was  adopted.  Its  being  carrial  on  by  fewer 
hands,  in  confequence  of  the  abridgement  of  labour,  and  a 
greater  proportion  of  the  lands  being  thrown  into  grafs, 
though  it  muft  no  doubt  diminilh  the  number  of  the  people 
employed  in  the  purpofes  of  agriculture,  and  in  many  pa- 
ri(hes,  where  that  forms  the  fole  employment  of  the  inhabit 
tants,  render  fuch  pariflies  lefs  populous  \  yet  it  does  not 
follow,  as  a  juft  inference  from  thence,  that  the  number  of 
inhabitants  in  the  country  at  large  is  thereby  diminiOied.  k 
has  only  the  tStOt  of  making  the  fuperfluous  hands  betake 
themftlves  to  other  occupations,  and  thus  become  the  means 
of  increafing  the  number  of  our  manufa^tirers,  and  furnift- 
ing  labourers  for  other  ufeful  and  important  purpofes  ;  fuch 
as  making  and  repairing  the  public  roads,  inclofing  and  drain- 
ing the  fields,  &c.  And  there  cannot  be  a  doubt,  that  even 
in  this  county,  where  the  monopoly  of  farms  is  perhaps  car- 
ried to  a  greater  length,  than  in  any  other  county  in  Scotland^ 
it  will  be  found,  when  the  extent  of  its  whole  population  is  af- 
certained,  that  the  number  of  its  inhabitants  is  rather  increaf* 
ed  than  diminifhed  :  And  that  the  diminution  in  many  of  the 
parochial  diftrifls,  .from  the  caufes  above  mentioned,  is  more 
tlian  counter-balanced  by  the  additional  increafe  in  the  towns 
and  villages.     This  reafoning  will  appear  the  more  conclu- 

five. 


1S4  Statijlical  Account 

five,  when  the  /aft  is  dated,  that  the  population,  whatever 
decrcafc  it  may  have  fuffered  within  thcfc  20  years,  is  aftu- 
ally  ntgh  doubled,  fince  the  late  eminent  Dr  Wcbfter  made 
tip  his  eftimate  of  the  whole  population  of  Scotland : 
For  the  number  of  fouls  at  prefent  in  the  parifli  is  335 

Whereas  tlie  whole  population,  in  1755,  was  only  18  r 

Hence  there  is  a  clear  increafe,  of  no  lefs  than  154 

Of  thefe  there  are  males,                    -                -  148* 

— females,                 -                -  187 

The  number  of  families  is  exactly                  -  62 

Employments. — Like  moft  of  the  other  parifhcs  In  the  coun- 
ty of  Berwick,  the  chief  employment  of  its  inhabitants  is 
huftandry.  'Till  of  late,  there  were  indeed  two  manufac- 
tures carried  oh  within  the  bounds  of  the  pari(h,  though 
none  of  them  on  an  extcnfive  fcalc,  the  one  a  ftarch,  and  the 
other  a  foap  manufafturc.  They  are  koth,  however,  given 
up,  at  leaft  for  the  prefent.  Beiides  thofc  employed  in  the 
purpofcs  of  agriculture,  there  are,  as  in  -all  other  country  pa- 
riihes,  a  few  who  follow  fuch  mechanical  occupations,  as  arc 
requiiite  for  the  accommodation  of  the  inhabitants ;  fuch  as 
joiners  and  fmiths,  for  manufafturing  the  utenfils  of  huf- 
bandry — tailors,  weavers,  &c.  There  is  one  fiftiing  boat 
belonging  to  the  parifh,  which  gives  employment  to  5  fifhcr- 
men,  who  are  as  a£ilve  and  induftrious  as  any  in  this  part  of 
the  coaft. 

Prices  rf  Labour. — The  wages  of  men  fervants  who  gtt 
their  board  in  the  houfe,  arc  from  7 1,  to  81.  a  year  ;  of  wo- 
men fervants,  froni  3I.  to  4I.  Servants  who  have  families, 
and  live  in  feparate  houfes,  are  not  paid  in  money,  but  re-* 
ceive  a  certain  quantity  of  meal  or  grain,  have  a  cow  grazed^ 

their 


iff  Mordingtoh. ,  18^ 

dkir  cOisiU  brought  home,  and  feverd  other  perqulfitefi,  the 
whole  of  which  may  amount  to  1 61.  a  year.  Day-labourers 
commonly  receive  1$.  4d.  per  day  in  fummerj  and  13.  in  win- 
ter«  except  in  hay'tlme,  and  during  harvefti  when  there  id  ii 
con(idcrable  advance  in  their  wages.  Thoft  who  take  work 
by  the  piece  generally  earn  a  cohfiderabladeal  more.  There 
has,  for  diefe  fome  years  paft,  been  a  giadual  rife  fin  the  price 
of  labour  for  weeding  turnips,  ptobably  owing  to  the  gradu- 
al extenfion  of  the  tumip-huftandryt  which  requires  a  great- 
er number>  and  confequently  makes  a  greater  demand  for  la- 
bourers. The  Wages  are  now  i  od.  per  day ;  whereas,  a  few 
years  ago,  they  feldom  exceeded  6d.  This  fpecies  of  labour 
16  generally  performed  by  women  and  boys,  who  are  verf 
expert  at  it. 

i!^^.— The  great  poft  road  from  Edinburgh  to  London^ 
by  Berwick  and  Newcaftle,  runs  through  the  Eaft  fide  of  thid'  . 
parilh.  The  road  from  Dunfe  to  Berwick  pafles  through 
the  South  part  of  it.  This,  as  well  as  all  the  other  great  and 
leading  roads  through  Berwick  (hire,  is  made  and  repaired 
by,  the  money  which  is  levied  at  toll-bars,  which  have  lately 
been  ere£ted.  The  inftitution  of  turnpike^  has  been  of  the 
greateft  utility  to  this  country.  Formerly,  the  roads  were  of- 
ten in  fuch  a  fituatron,  as  to  render  impoflible,  cither  for  car- 
riages or  horfes  to  get  through ;  whereas,  there  is  how  an 
open  and  an  eafy  communication^  at  all  feafons  of  the  year,' 
for  horfes  and  carriages  of  every  defcription.  The  ctpia 
roads  are  alfo  in  a  rapid  ftate  of  improvement ;  they  are 
made  and  up-held  by  the  llatute  labour,  which  is  commuted. 

HentOi'Sy  Retrty  (jfr. — There  »e  onl^  two  hcfitdi's  id 

this  diftria,  both  of  whdrti  refide.     The  real  rent  of  iK*  ftU 

riih  is  about  ^060].  Sterling.     The!  valued  rent  i»  2(^04^1. 

J  8s.  6d.  Sctfteh.     The  monthly  cefs  is  32I  14$.  JM.  St^^: 

tot.  XV.  kx  ChrcHi 


1 86  Statijlical  Account 

Churchy  School,  and  Poor. — The  church  was  built  in  ihc 
year  1757,  and  the  manfc  a  confiderablc  lime  before.  The 
latter  has  lately  undergone  a  complete  and  thorough  repaijr» 
and  is  now  comfortable  and  commodious.  The  ftipend  is 
paid  partly  in  money,  and  partly  in  grain  ;  the  amount  of 
the  whole,  including;  the  glebe,  is,  commumbus  annis^  from 
85I.  to  90I.  Alexander  Rentok,  Efq;  of  Lanimerton  19 
patron.  The  author  of  this  account  has  been  greatly  in- 
debted to  this  gentleman,  for  his  obliging  information  and 
affiftance  in  drawing  it  up.  The  fchool-mafter's  falary  is 
7I.  per  annum.  The  poor  are  maintained  chiefly  by  afiefT- 
ments.on  the  heritors  and  tenants,  the  collefiions  in  the 
church  being  trifling.  Until  within  thefe  10  years,  there 
never  was  a  pcrfon  on  the  poor's  roll.  Since  that  time  they 
have  not  been  numerous.  At  prefcnt  there  arc  only  two 
that  receive  a  weekly  aliment. 

Antiquities^ — Monuments  of  antiquity  are  not  very  numerous 
in  this  parifli :  We  have,  however,  a  camp  of  confiderablc  ex- 
tent, which,  from  its  form,  is  unqucftionably  Danifh.  It  is 
fituated  on  the  N.  W.  extremity  of  the  parifh,  and  commands 
a  beautiful  profpeft  over  a  vaft  traft  of  country.  It  feems  to 
have  been  a  well  chofcn  ftation  for  the  predatory  excurfions 
of  barbarous  ages,  and  alfo  for  keeping  up  a  communication 
with  the  fea,  from  which  it  is  at  no  great  diftance.  It  is  fur- 
rounded  by  two  deep  trenches,  which  are  ftill  very  entire ; 
the  mounds  of  them  fecm  once  to  have  been  faced  with 
ftones.  Many  of  thefe  ftones  have  been  carried  away  for 
different  purpofca  :  what  is  remarkable,  a  kind  of  done  has 
been  found  th^re,  which  is  not  to  be  feen  in  any  other  part 
of  the  country,  except  In  the  bed  of  the  river  Whitaddcr, 
from  wheuce  they  mud  have  been  brought,  -  a  diftance  of 
near  4  milesi  and  alLpp-hiil)  which  in  thofe  days  muft  have 

been 


of  Mor)iington.    .  187 

been  a  work  of  much  toil  and.  labour.  The  hill  on  which 
the  camp  (lands  is  called  Hab  or  Hohchejler.  A  little  to  the 
South*£a(l  of  this  camp  is  a  hill  of  no  great  height,  but  rifmg 
abruptly^  on  which  feveral  unfortunate  women  were  burnt 
for  witch-crafty  fo  late  as  the  beginning  of  this  .century.  If 
is  ftill  called  the  JVitch*s  Know  J.  EdinGton  Castle,  the 
ruins  of  which  uaw  (how  its  former  llrengthi  alfo  demands 
our  notice.  It  is  fituated  on  the  banks  of  the  Whittadder, 
near  the  fouthern  extremity  of  th^  parifli^  on  a  deep  rock, 
totally  inacceffible  from  the  Weft  \  at  th^.foot  of  which  the 
river  flows.  In  feudal  times,  it  was  an  excellent  prote£ltoa 
agaiuft  the  inroads  and  depredations  of  our  neighbours,  on 
the  other  fide  of  the  Tweed.  It  lus  been  a  folid  and  fub- 
ftantial  bu]lding,.as.what  remains  of  ^he  walls  ^re  compofed 
of  immenfe  fton^s,  (Irongly  cemented  tpgcther. 

Advantages  and  Di/advant.iges. — ^The  advantages^  attending^ 
the  fituation  of  this  parifh,  greatly  overbalance  any  difadvan-< 
tages  to  which  it  may  be  liable.  Situated  within  4  miles 
of  Berwick,  (to  which  there  is  an  excellent  road,)  the  in- 
habitants can  with  great  cafe  procure  whatever  nwy  be  want- 
<?d,  either  for  convenience  or  luxury.  There  alfo  they  (ind 
a  ready  rtarkct  for  whatever  tliey  have  to  difpofc  of ;  the 
farmer,  in  fome  decree,  for  his  fat  (lock  of  every  denomina* 
tion,  and  always  for  his  corn  y  and  the  cottager  for  his  eggs, 
butter,  cheefe,  or  fowls.  And,  in  like  manne^*,  they  can  be 
fupplicd  with  whatever  they  (land  in  need  of,  as  well  and  as 
pheap  in  Berwick^  as  in  any  place  in  the  North  of  England. 
Whatever  elfc  the  farmer  has  to  difpofc  of, .  he  there  meet^ 

A  a  2       .  •,     with 

§  The  fpot  on  which  the  exertion  took  place  wai  plahilf  to  ht  feeQ  a* 
bout  4  years  ago.  but  is  now  plovred  up  and  cropped  with  the  reft  of  the  ficW ; 
a  fort  of  fuperlUtlout  veoeracion  for  the  fpo\  Where  banum  blood  had  been 
(hed,  fccmi  to  hate  prefcrvcd  it  for  maoy  jcsu^s. 


}%%  Siafij/Hcat  Aecemt 

yrixh  his  btiytfrs,  whither  it  be  wool,  cattk  or  fiieep ;  Ber^ 
wick  being  on  tlie  ftraight  road  to  Morpeth^  S0ndepland  and 
Shields,  the  great  marts  of  our  (lock ;  and  Yorkffaire,  in  the 
fame  way,  for  our  wool ;  the  jobbers  in  tbefe  different  artictea 
repair  thither  at  particular  feafons,  and  cany  off  whatever  we 
hkve  to  part  with.  'Tis  difficult  then  to  fay,  what  wocdd  melio- 
rate the  fitttation  of  the  inhabitants  of  thia  parish.  Fuel  ptfe* 
fents  jtfelf  as  the  readied  means  of  making  tJieir  ftate  more 
comfertaWe.  At  prefent  they  are,  'tis  true,  7  miles  from  coals ; 
btit  as  it  is  good  road,  and  the  tenants  drive  fo^many  loads-  to 
elich  cottager,  this  inconvenience  is  the  left  feh^  n>orc  e^- 
ciaWy  as  the  prime  coft  is  rery  moderate,  ^t  there  is  a  tea- 
fonable  hope  that  eten  tbi&  drawback  may  thortly  be  lemor- 
e^l ;  ^  there  is  no  doubt,  that,  on  thenerthom  exttemiliy  of 
the  pariQi,  there  is  a  workable  coal,  which,  i(»  i^  underftood, 
the  proprietor  intends  ere  long  to  open  up,  and  which  will  be 
of  tJie  gfcateft  benefit  td  the  parifll,  as  weir  as  to  the  neigh- 
bourhood. 

CArtr/i/Ti-r.— Aftuate'd  by  a  ftnfe  of  thefe  advantages,  the 
inhabitants  of  this  'parifli  are  rnduftrious,  frugal  and  orderly, 
fubmiflive  to  the  haws,  and*  attentive  to  the  wifh  of  their  fa- 
periors.  No  inhabitant  has  been  conviSed  of  a  crimtf  be- 
fore a  Court  of  Juftice,  in  the  memory  of  man.  And  wh^t 
ifhews  the  regularity  of  their  condndl  in  the  moft  confpicu- 
ous  light,  is,  that  in  July  1 792,  when  the  moft  atrocious  riots 
prevailed  in  this  county,  on  account  of  the  inftiiution  of 
turnpikes,  not  one  inhabitant  of  this  pariflr  was  cariied  be- 
fore a  magiftrate,  or  even  fufpeiied  of  being  concerned  in 
thofe  (hameful  enormities  which  difgraced  the  county : 
though  perhaps  the  burden,  (if  there  he  any,)  fails  heavieft 
on  them,  being  fituated  at  the  eailev n  ext]:emity  of  the  coun«- 
ty,  »nd  though  they^  who  pay  toll,  do  not  tnveltes  yard«  or 
the  road>  on  their  way  to  Berwick. 
' ' *  NUxMBER. 


of  Titticonltty.  i8^ 

NUMBER   XIL 
PARISH   or   TILLICOULTRY. 


f Count?  6v  ClackmInnak,  PnEaiTTEitT  oipDoiMLAinij 
Stno]>  of  Perth  and  Stirlin<j.) 


By  the  F^.  M&.  WiLLZJiitt  O^jUitH^  Mmifiar. 


Eijmohgy  of  ihe  Name, 

X.  H£  origin  of  the  name  is  generally  fappofed  to  be  Gae« 
lie,  and  Tillicoultry  compounded  of  the  three  words,  Tuilich^ 
fut  and  tin  Thefe  vfords  fignify  literally,  the  rwufrt  or  hifi 
at  the  bach  of  the  country^  and  feem  to  refer  to  the  Kirk-hrlf, 
and  the  Cuninghar ;  a  rifing  ground,  which  begins  near  the 
houfe  of  Tillicoultry  and  the  old  kirk,  and  runs  in  a  S.  £. 
dircftion  till  it  reaches  the  Dpvan.  This  rifing  ground  has 
a  ftrikingly  romantic  appearance,^  as  one 'approaches  it, 
either  from  the  Eaft  or  the  Weft.  And  as  it  interfefts  a 
beautiful  plain,  which  begins  at  the  Abbcy^Craig  near  Stirling, 
and  extends  to  Vicar's  Bridge,  it  has  juftly  been  diftinguiflied 
as  the  termination  of  the  plain,  or  ftrath.  But  the  author  of 
this  account  hopes  he  will  not  be  accufed  of  aife£tation,  if 
\it  ventures  to  give  a  Latin  derivation,  and  confiders  Tillicoul- 
try as  compounded  cither  of  Telluj  culta,  or  Te/lus  cultorum 
^-  Dei. 


^9<3  Statijlical  Account 

Dei.  If  the  firft  be  adopted,  we  may  fuppofc  the  name  took 
its  rife,  from  the  place  having  been  once  in  a  high  ftate  of 
cultivation,  probably  from  the  introdudion  of  the  Italian  agti* 
culture.  But  if  the  fecond,  it  may  denote  the  rcfidencc  of 
fome  of  the  Culdees^  or  a  place  appropriated  to  the  worftiip 
of  God,  either  by  the  Culdees  or  the  Druids.  For  on  the 
fouth  end  of  the  Cuninghar,  the  rude  remains  of  a  Druidical 
circle  arq  Kii\ -to  be  feen,  and  on  thenorth-eaft  extremity  of 
the  rifing  ground,  the  old  church  was  fituated.  The  writer 
hereof  is  no  admirer  of  the  Gaelic ;  but  as  Gaelic  deriva- 
tions are  at  prefent  fafhionable,  and  as  every  place  in  this 
country  is  fuppofed,  by  our  learned  antiquarians,  to  ha^re  ,an 
old  Gaelic  name,  he  is  afraid  little  attention  will  be  paid  to 
thefeZtO^yi. etymologies.  It  muft,  however,  be  allowed,  that. 
Tillicoultry  is  no  great  corruption  of  Melius  culta^  or  of  TeU 
bis  cultorum  Dei^ 

Skuatkn, — Tillicoultry  is  an  inland  country  pariih,  and 
ptefiBntsr  little  uncommon  or  fplendid  for  dcfcription.  It 
comprehends  a  confiderablc  part  of  the  Ochils,  where  thcC? 
hills  are  higheft  *,  but  the  principal  part  of  the  parifli  lies  at 
the  foot  of  the  hills,  verging  towards  the  fouth.  The  river 
Dovan  wafhes  its  bat^ksou  the  north* 

Jppearanccj  Form^  ^c.—Thc,  appearance  pf  the  parifh, 
whether  we  view  the  hills  or  the  plain,  is  beautiful  and  plea- 
fant*  A  great  part  o(  the  low  ground  is  cnclofed,  and  ,  af- 
fords a  variety  o£  agreeable  landfcapes,  and  the  beauty  of  the 
fcene  is  much  cncrcafed  by  the  win4ings  of  the  Dovan, 
>v'hich  in  miniature  refemble  thofc  of  the  Forth.  The  fbapc 
of  the  M'holc  parifli  is  a  rlwmboid  or  an  oblong,  which  has 
the  two  longed  fides  on  the  E.  and  W*  each  meafuring  al- 
moft  6  Englifh  miles.     1  he  S>  fide  of  the  oblong  meafures 

near. 


fxf  Tillicoultry.  191 

near '24  miles,  and  tlie  N.  fide  one  niile.  The  low  grounds 
taken  alone  form  alfo  an  oblong,  the  length  of  the  fides 
from  E*  to  W.  being  rather  more  than  2^  miles,  and  the 
breadth  from  &  to  N.  about  i{  mile. 


Extent  and  £W^/f>/i.*-Tiilicoultry  confifts  of  mbfe  thafn 
1^000  Scotch  "Ticres,  of  which  quantity,  4000  are  in  the 
Ochils,  and  the  remaining  2000  acres  form  the  loMf  arable 
ground  at  the  foot  of  the  hills,  and  to  the  fouth  of  the  bank 
dykes.  About  iioo  or  1200  acres  of  arable  land,  by  far  the 
beft  and  mod  valuable  in  the  parifii,  lie  between  the  bank 
dykes,  at  the  foot  of  the  hills,  and  the  loweft  part  of  the 
banks  of  Balharty  and  Coalfnaiighton,  fouth  of  the  Dovan, 
and  about  800  or  900  acres  lie  fouth  of  the  river,  from  the 
foot  of  the  banks.  The  hills,  according  to  an  a£hial  furvey» 
cxclufive  of  the  Mill-Glen  farm,  contain  2902  acres*  The 
elevation  of  the  ground,  on  the  north  banks  of  the  Dovan  ; 
at  the  bridge,  is  not  more  than  20  feet,  or  at  moft  30  fee( 
"above  the  level  of  the  Forth,  at  fpring  tides ;  and  the  S*  Vf» 
corner  of  Tillicoultry,  which  approaches  neareft  to  that  river, 
is  diftant  from  it  about  3  miles.  The  ground  at  Coalfnaugh- 
ton  is  near  300  feet  above  the  JDoyan  \  and  at  Balharty  it  is 
about  300  feet. 

Soil  and  Surface. — ^The  foil  is  in  general  dryjield^  rich  in 
quality.  When  properly  taken  care  of,  it  bears  excellent 
crops,  both  of  corn  and  hay,  and  gratefully  repays  the  labour 
of  the  husbandman.  At  the  foot  of  die  hills,  the  foil  is  a 
fine  qoick  loam,  but  not  very  deep.  The  crpfts  are,  in  many 
places,  covered  with  ftcmes  almoft  mnumerable,  fmooth  in* 
their  furface,  and  in  general  twice  as  large  as  a  man's  fift. 
They  appear  to  be  natural  to  the  foil,  and  not  brought  tlii- 
iSbejr  by  any  inundation  5  but  many  entertain  a  different  opi- 

?uoa 


i^^  Sttt^Hcal  Account 


Seme  farmers  thiidc  «hem  an  advaMbage  lo  the  cropti, 
as  in  hot  dry  fumaiers  thejr  keep  the  ground  unoift  and  cadif 
and  in  winter  warm*  Voft  quantities  have  been  gathered, 
which,  in  labouring,  proves  a  great  eafe  both  to  the  plough 
and  the  ploughman.  The  haughs,  near  the  Dovan,  prcfent 
a  deep  loam  mixed  with  faud,  and  the  foil  is  very  diiFerent 
from  that  of  the  crofts.  The  farm -of  Gutters  is  in  part  cby, 
and  bears  fine  crops  of  wheat  as  well  as  other  grains.  The 
lands  fouth  of  the  Dovan  are  much  inferior  to  thofe  on  the 
north  fide.  In  fome  places,  the  foil  is  a  clay,  of  a  cold  na-» 
ture  \  in  others  it  is  a  light  kam,  Ruxed  with  faod  and  gr»- 
vel,  on  a  till  bottom,  and  in  others  it  is  a  deep  rich  loam.  A 
corifiderable  part  of  the  ground  is  covered  with  heath,  and 
would  not  be  eafily  improved,  either  for  tillage  or  pafture. 
Perhaps  the  beft  improvement  would  be,  to  enclofe  the 
.  moors,  siid  to  pbnt  them  w:ttk  Scotch  fins»  laxdies,  and  o« 
tfaerlbreft  trees. 

Agrtctthure, — In  the  county  oF  Qackimaiian,  agriciikural 
improvements  are  much  attended  to,  and  have  been  brought 
to  great  perfeftion.  Richer  crops  of  wheat,  barley,  or  hay, 
mre  feldom  to  be  met  with ;  and  the  ploughs  ufcd,  and  the 
mode  of  ploughing,  are  no  where  furpaifed.  A  plough  atid 
ploughman  were  fent  this  fummer  from  Qackmannanfhirc  to 
Windfor,  to  give  a  proper  fpccimen  of  plowing  on  his^a- 
jefty's  farm. 

Crops  and  Mtdturts^  &fr.— The  farmer^  m  Tillicoultry 
do  t^ot  pretend  to  take  any  lead  m  agricultural  improvement 
Tbe.y  profit,  hawever,  by  the  obferrations  and  the  pra£licc 
of  '-others.  Two  horfe  ploughs  are  getting  into  general  ufc, 
wbch  an;  a  great  io^rovement  in  husbandry.     The  crops 

principally 


principally  attended  to,  arc  oats  and  barley.  Wheat  is  too 
much  neglefted,  except  by  Mr  Johnfton,  and  even  peafc 
and  beans.  Crops  of  turnips  are  feldom  to  be  met  withi 
and  cabbages  are  never  raifed  in  our  fields.  It  is  difficult 
to  afcettaiti  the  rent  and  produce  of  the  land  per  acire.  Thd 
farms  are  commonly  let  at  a  certain  rent  in  cumuloy  and  the 
farmgrs,  iiot  knowing  the  meafure  of  thieir  fields,  feldtom  pay 
attention  to  the  produce  of  particular  acres.  The  refult  of 
many  enquiries  is,  that  an  acre  of  the  bed  land,  well  manur- 
ed, will  produce  from  7  to  10  bolls  of  oats,  each  boll  weigh** 
ing  14  or  15  (lone,  yielding  about  a  boll  of  meal.  .The  oats 
generally  produce  14  pecks  of  meal,  befides  paying  the  muU 
ture,  and  all  other  mill-dues.  The  multure  is  no  lefs  than  the 
13th  peck.  An  acre  of  the  fame  land  will  yield  from  7  to 
1 1  bolls  of  barley,  each  weighing  about  1 8  or  20  done-  At 
an  average,  however,  an  acre  will  not  yield  above  6  or  7  boUs^ 
whether  of  barley  or  oats.  Our  dry-field  barley  is  remar- 
kably good,  being  very  thin  in  the  rind  j  and  is  rfeckoned,  by 
maltmen  and  diftillers;  equal  to  any  farfed  in  the  Carfe.  A 
good  deal  of  wheat  has  of  late  been  fown  in  the  farm  of 
Gutters,  and  an  acre  commonly  produces  from  8  to  loholls. 
Forty  boils  of  potatoes  have  been  raifed  on  an  acre,  and  one 
farnier  in  particular  had  18  bolls  on  the  4th  of  an  acre.  Thd 
writer  of  this  account  had  accefs  to  fee  a  retharkable  crop  of 
potatoes^  raifed  in  Mr  Barclay*s  garden,  the  produce  being 
no  lefs  than  1 05  pecksj  or  6  bolls  and  9  pecksj  raifed  from 
one  peck  planted. 

Farms  J  RentSy  Pajiitrey  Stock ,  i^c. — ^The  farms  are  in  general 

fmall,  and  there  are  only  5  tenants  whofe  rent  exceeds  50  !• 

Sterling  ^r  ahnutH.     A  great  part  of  the  parifti  is  inclofed^ 

and  lafid  down  in  grafs,  and  is  let  annually  for  fummer  graz- 

VoL.  XV.  -     Bb  »ing: 


194  Statijlical  Account 

zing.  The  rent  of  farms  fluduatcs,  but  grafs  parks  couv- 
monly  let  well.  *  The  grofs  rental  of  the  parifti  is  above 
1700I.  Sterlingi  and  tlie  valuation  is  rated^  in  the  old  cefs 
books  of  the  county,  at  3389 1.  5  s.  xod.  Scotch.  There  are 
in  Tillicoultry  employed  in  plowing,  carting,  and  other 
Country  work : 

Horfes^  •  116    Milk  Cows»  -  132 

Ploughs  -  36     Cottagers  ditto  -        63 

Carts  -  89 

*    Htll  ParmSf  Sheep  and  Wool — ^The  hills  have  a  verdant 

*  ind  beautiful  appearance.  They  afford  excellent  pafture  for 
iheep,  and  are  divided  into  5  farms.  They  will  maintain 
scbout  3500  (heep  \  and,  at  an  average,  an  acre  will  not  only 

•  maintain,  but  fodder  one  (heep.    The  pafture  is  grafs,  inter- 
fperfed  with  heath,  bent  and  ling.     The  heath  is  (hort  and 
wearing  oat.    The  Mill-Glen  and  Fore-hill  farms  are  infe- 
rior 

•  For  15  years  pad,  abuoft  all  the  farms,  wkich  have' been  let,  have  been  t»- 
l:en  by  ftrangeis  from  other  pariihcs  in  the  neighbouthood,  and  who  are  Se- 
ceders.  Jf  the  prcfcnt  fyftem  prevail  for  other  15  years,  the  greateft  part,  if 
liot  the  whole  of  the  parifh,  will  be  pofTcfled  by  perfons  not  belonging  to 
the  eflabliihed  church.  It  is  but  doing  juttice  to  a  worthy  man,  (whofe 
fweetnefs  of  temper,  benevolence  of  heart,  and  gentlenaany  behaviour,  will  be 
remembered  with  pleafure,  at  leaft  ^hile  the  prefent  generation  lafls,)  10  men- 
tion, that  Mr  Bakclat  Mai tlano  improved  and  beautified  the  parifh  in  a 
high  degree,  by  his  numerous  indofurcs  and  plantations.  His  tafte  and  atten- 
lioh  every  where  appear.  Mr  Tait  alfo  merits  piaife  for  his  improvements 
on  the  lands  of  Harviefton,  which  he  has  wholly  endoTed.  He  has  carried  on 
his  improvements,  for  many  years,  with  much  fpiric  and  judgment,  and,  it  is 
prefnmedy  with  great  advantage  to  himfelfr  His  uniform  pradice  has  been  t« 
fallow  his  fields,  and,  after  manuring  them  well  with  dung  and  lime,  to  fow 
them  with  barley  and  grafs  feeds.  One  of  his  inclofures,  which  contains  5 
and  a  half  Scotch  acres,  has  been  let  this  fcafcn  for  grazing,  at  4  guinf a» 
per  acre,  the  rent  being  23 1.  2  a.  Sterling. 


i)f  Tillicoultry.  ,  193 

rior  to  none  in  the  Ochils,  far  produciog  excellent  mutton 
and  fine  wool.     The  wood  of  thefe  farms  is  much  fuperior 
to  that  of  Bruich  and  the  back  hills,  as  the  padure  is  natur- 
z&j  much  finer.     Tlie  farms  are  commonly  fupplied  from 
Tweeddale  with  young  flicep  of  the  black-faced  kind  :  the 
farmers  fometimes  breed  young  flieep,  which,  on  the  whole, 
they  find  better,  ftronger  and  more  profitable,  than  thofe 
from  Tweeddale.     But  as  the  hills  are  ftormy,  they  cannot 
keep  the  lambs  in  winter.     All  the  Mill- Glen  farm  is  good 
pafture,  but  in  the  reft  of  the  hills,  there  are  near  400;  acr^^ 
of  little  or  no  value^  as  they  are  covered  with  channel  and 
raofs.  The  very  beft  white  fleeces  yield  about  4  lib.  of  woqJ, 
valued  at  lod.^r  pound  ^  and  the  beft  fmeared  fleeces  6  lib. 
at  5d.  or  6d,    The  average  weight  of  a  white  fleece  is  aboifcj 
2^  lib.  and  of  a  fmeared  one,  4  lib.     The  whole  of  wha^ 
was  formerly  a  common:}:  is  now  the  property  of  Mr  Bruce, 
except  Bruich^  which  belongs  to  Mr  Taxt,  and  as  much  a^ 
will  maintain  48  fheep. 

Hills  and  Minerals. — Bencxeuoh,  the  property  of  Mr 
Johnfton,  is  the  higheft  in  the  Ochils,  and  is  230©  feet  a- 
•bove  the  level  of  the  Forth  at  Alloa.  The  Ochils  prefent  a 
confiderable  variety  of  ftrafta*  The  fummits  of  the  central 
parts,  particularly  Bencleugh,  are  compofed  iof  igranitcs,  hotl> 
red  and  gray.  Many  varieties  of  Acfe  are  extremely  beau- 
B  b  2  tiful, 

4  When  LoRp  Coltil  feued  Che  eftate,  be  gave  bis  vajTalt  a  right  of  pa&  ' 
turing  fheep  and  other  cattle  on  the  hiU».  Some  of  them  had  a  limited  num- 
ber of  iheep  affigned  them,  and  others  an  unlimited  number.  In  the  year 
1769,  Mr  Barclay  Maitlano  commenced  a  procefs  againft  thcfeuers,  for 
^  dWiiicn  of  the  common  hill,  which  contained  about  300  acres.  The  pro- 
cefs was  withdrawn  from  the  Couit  of  Selfion  in  1774)  ^ii^  referred  to  ar* 
biters,  and  all  the  fcucrs  difpofcd  of  their  property  for  low  ground,  or  a  di« 
AUDutira  of  their  fen-duty.    The  AiilhOlen  was  no  part  of  the  common  MH. 


19^  Stati/Hcal  Accwnt 

tiful,  and  contain  large  diftina  chryftals  of  black  SchorU  Thq 
next  chain,  of  which  the  Kings  Seat  is  the  higheft,  and  be- 
longs to  that  clafs  called  fecondary  mountains,  cor.fifts  of 
Q:rata  of  ArgiiJaceous  SchifiM.  Rclpw  this,  in  various  parts, 
are  found  craigs  or  rocks  of.  BafalteSy  or  whinftone.  The 
Caflle  Craig  is  of  this  fort,  and  is  peculiarly  intcrefting  tp  the 
naturalift,  as  it  is  in  part  compofedof  nodules  of  whin- (lone, 
exhibiting  concentric  crufts  of  decompofed  bafahes,  like  the 
coats  of  an  onion,  furrounding  a  harder  nucleus.  Garnets 
are  not  uncommon  in  the  micaceous  Schiftus,  \vh!ch  forms 
the  (hade  between  the  granitical  and  argillaceous  Schiflus. 
There  are  many  veins  of  copper  in  the  hillf.  *  Iron-done, 
of  an  exceeding  good  quality,  has  been  found  in  many  dif- 
feient  places.  Some  veins  in  JVatty-Glen  are  as  rich  as  any 
,'difcovered  in  Scotland.  The  Dovan  Company  have  a  leafe 
of  the  iron-ftone  belonging  to  Mr  Bruce,  and  have  employed, 
during  the  greateft  part  of  this  year,  64  miners  and  10  wo- 
meii  bearers.  At  an  average,  each  miner  gains  i  s.  6d.  per 
day,  and  a  bearer  8d.  A  great  "many^r/wo^/,  or  veins  of 
rich  iron  ore  of  the  kidney  kind,  have  been  difcovered  in 
the  hills,  equal  in  quality  to  any  difcovered  in  this  coun- 
try, and  by  no  means  inferior  to  what  ib  brought  from  Eng- 
land. Some  fmnll  trials  have  bet  n  made  with  one  of  the 
veins,  and  it  is  to  be  regretetd  that  they  are  difcontinucd. 
Befides  copper,  there  is  a  great  appearance,  in  the  hilis,  of  dif- 
ferent 

•  Some  of  thcfe  were  wrought  near  50  year*  ago,  to  a  very  confider^Me 
extent  hi  the  MiU-Glen.  Four  different  kinds  of  copper  01  e  were  difco- 
vered, the  thickeft  vein  of  which  was  about^iS  inched.  The  ore, 
when  ^afhed  and  dreiTcd,  was  valued  at  50 1  Sterling  per  torn.  A  Company 
of  gentlemen  at  London  were  the  tackfmen,  and  for  fevctal  years  eniploycd 
about  50  men.  After  a  very  great  fum  of  money  was  expended,  the  works 
were  abandoccd,  as  unable  to  defray  the  exp ence. 


qf  Tillicoultry.  X97 

fcrent  mIneralS|fuch  as  Giver,  lead)  cobalt,  antimony,  fulphur, 
;ind  arfenic,  but  no  proper  trials  have  yet  been  made.  A  fmall 
edge  ftratum  of  dark  blue  clay,  2|-  feet  thick,  was  lately 
found,  which,  it  is  thought,  will  prove  exceeding  good  for 
building  furnaces,  and  making  fire  bricks.  There  is  plenty 
of  free-flone  of  a  good  quality  for  building  •,  and  (tones  have 
been  cut  in  the  quarries  from  8  to  10  feet  in  length. 

CoaL — ^The  whole  parlOi,  fouth  of  the  hills,  abounds  with 
poal,  which  is  the  property  of  Mr  Bruce,  except  in  Mr  John - 
lion's  eftatc.  The  coal  hasmot  been  wrought  to  any  great 
extent,  unkfs  where  it  is  drained  by  the  prefent  level.  There 
are  4  different  feems  of  coal  which  the  level  drains.  The 
firft  is  a  mixed  cherry  coal,  3  feet  thick,  and  1 2  fathoms 
from  the  furfacc.  The  ad  is  a  rough  foft  coal  of  an  excel- 
lent quality,  6  feet  thick,  and  15  fathoms  deep.  The  3d 
is  a  remarkably  good  clean  fplint,  2^  feet  thick,  and  20  fa- 
thoms deep.  And  the  4th,  which  is  reckoned  the  princi- 
pal feam,  is  about  5  feet  thick,  and  lies  at  the  depth  of  30 
fathoms.  It  is  a  hard  durable  fplint  well  adapted  for  expor- 
^tion  and  the  foreign  market,  particularly  Holland.  Only 
the  2d  and  fourth  feams  have  been  wrought  -,  f  the  roofs  are 
all  good,  except  that  on  the  ad  feam,  where  it  runs  towards 
the  crop.  But  it  is  very  valuable,  as  it  contains  balls  of  iron- 
(lone,  in  the  roof,  of  an  exceeding  good  quality.  Eighty  acres 
of  the  2d  feam,  and  20  of  the  fourth,  may  dill  be  wrought 
by  the  level ;  but  by  ere£ling  a  (leam  engine,  an  immenfe 
quantity  may  be  gained.    The  Devon  company  have  been 

tackfmcn 

t  Twenty  pickmen  ufed  to  be  emplojed  in  the  coal-work ;  and  about 
3000  chalden  of  great  coal  were  exported  annuaUy  from  the  harbour  of  Alloa ; 
but  for  4  years  paft,  the  working  of  the  coal  has  beto  dtfcontinued.  There 
U  no  doubt,  however,  but  that,  in  procefa  of  time,  the  coal  will  be  a  moft  pro- 
fitable  concern,  as  there  are  incxhauftible  fields  of  it  to  be  found. 


19$  Stattflical  Account 

tackfmen  of  the  coal  for  more  than  a  year  and  a  half,  but 
have  wrought  none,  except  a  very  fmall  quantity  for  land 
fale.  The  defign  of  taking  a  coal,  without  working  it,  is  /«- 
comprehenjible*  While  coals  remain  under  ground,  they  are 
of  no  value,  either  to  the  proprietor  or  the  tackfmen. 

Gate  Mail. — ^Thc  great  coal,  when  led  to  the  (hore  of 
Alloa  for  exportation,  pays  a  tax  of  fourpencc  Sterling  per 
chalder  to  the  family  of  Mar,  called  Gate  Matt.  It  was  origi- 
nally demanded,  for  the  liberty  of  exporting  the  coal  from 
Ac  Pom  of  Alhay  and  becauie  the  road  leaciing  through  the' 
cftate  to  the  harbour  was  a  private  one,  though  ufed  by  the 
public.  This  road  is  repaired  by  Mr  Erfkinc  at  a  confider- 
able  annual  expenoe ;  at  the  fame  time  it  feems  extraordi- 
nary, that  there  is  not  a  public  road  leading  fVom  Tillicoul- 
try to  a  public  harbour,  and  to  a  market  town,  in  which  a 
Cttftom-boufe  is  eftabliih^d  by  authority. 

Kivery  Floods^  Ftjbj  Pearh^  Swansj  to*^.— The  Devon  is 
a  beautiful  river,  but  not  navigable.  After  running  in  the 
Ochils  about  8  miles  in  an  eaflierly  direction  from  its  fource, 
k  makes  a  wide  circuit  round  Muckart.  Then  taking  a 
wefterly  courfe  at  the  Crook,  and  forming  the  romaniic  fall 
at  the  Caldron  Lin>  it  divides  the  arable  land  of  Tillicoultry, 
into  two  almoft  equal  parts.  The  valley,  through  which  it 
|)a(les«  is  diftinguilhed  by  Newte  in  his  Tour,  as  being  one  of 
tlie  mod:  pleafant  places,  or,  as  he  expreffes  k,  the  Tempe  of 
Scotland.  The  Devon  frequently  fwells  with  rain,  and  o^ 
verflows    its  banks  {.       It  abounds  M'ith  excellent   trout 

and 

t  A  Tcry  remarkable  and  uncommon  flbod  happened  in  September  17S5, 
which  carried  away  a  prodigiooi  quantity  of  com,  broke  down  a  flone  bridge 
at  the  Ilack  mill  in  D olUr,  and  occalioncd  other  very  extraordinary  damage. 

the 


(tf  Tillicoultry.  1^9 

and  parr,  which  afford  much  amufement  to  the  angler*  In 
the  deep  pools,  pikes  and  eels  are  found,  Salmon  come  from 
the  Forth  in  great  numbers  to  fpawn  ;  and  we  have  plenty 
of  delicious  fea  trouts,  both  w^ite  and  grey,  in  the  harveH 
and  fpring.  In  fome  places,  the  banks  of  the  Devon  prefent 
fmgular  concretions  of  hardened  clay,  in  a  great  variety  of 
fantaftic  (hapes.  Pearls  of  a  fmall  fize  haye  been  found  in 
the  bed  of  the  river  \  and,  in  very  fevere  winters,  fwans  haye 
been  known  to  refort  to  its  banks. 

Rivulets  and  Bitrn  Trouts,  tsfc. — ^The  hill  burns,  or  rivu- 
lets, abound  with  trouts  of  a  very  delicious  quality  and  fla- 
vour, and  are  taken  in  great  numbers  after  rain.  None  were 
ever  difcovered  in  the  Glooming-Jide  Burn^  though  it  has  plenty 
of  water,  and  remarkably  fine  ftreams  and  pools.  Trouts 
have  even  been  put  into  it,  but  without  the  defired  effeft. 
This  is  fuppofed  to  arife  from  fome  bed  of  fulphur,  or  other 
mineral  hurtful  to  £i(h,  over  which  the  burn  pafles. 

Birds  and  ^tadrupeds, — ^The  birds  are  the  fame  as  in  flie 
neighbourhood,  and  it  is  needlcfs  to  fpccifiy  them,  as  the/ 
are  enumerated  in  the  ftatiflical  account  of  Alloa  §.  Till 
of  late,  the  bulfinch  was  a  fti^ngcr  here,  but  he  is  now  fre- 
quently to  be  met  with.  The  woodlark  ought  to  be  particu-< 
larly  mentioned,  as  one  of  our  fweeteft  warblers.  He  be* 
gins  to  Gng  early  in  the  fpring,  and  continues  till  late  in  har-/ 
veft.     Like  the  nightingale,  he  is  frequently  lieard  finging  in 

thr 

The  riTcr  roXie  in  4  or  5  hourt  more  than  13  feet  above  its  iiTual  iidght,  ac 
Tillicoultry  bridge.  A  woman,  who  was  affifcing  a  farmer  in  removing  his 
^oms,  on  the  fouth  fide,  was  forced  away  by  the  rapidity  and  violence  of 
the  ilream,  and  brought  in  fafety  to  the  oppofice  bank.  Her  clothes  had 
made  her  float  on  the  furface  of  the  wa(er,  though  flic  was  carried  down  «- 

bout' a  quarter  of  a  mile. 

'  ■  •  •      . 

5  FoL  VIII.  Num.  XU 


ioo  Statijlical  Account 

the  moft  melodious,  enchanting  manner,  in  the  .clear,  (lill 
fummer  evenings.  On  thefe  occafions,  he  commonly  pro- 
longs his  fong  till  midnight,  and  fometimes  till  the  morning. 
For  two  or  three  years  we  were  vifited  with  a  magpicy  which 
was  not  variegated  with  black  and  white  plumage,  but  was 
itiiirtly  whitey — "  Rara  avis  in  ierris'\  The  other  magpies 
aflbciated  with  him,  and  did  not  confider  him  in  any  degree 
as  ftrange.  In  the  hills  there  are  muir- fowls,  plovers  and 
dotterels.  The  muir-fowls  are  not  fo  frequent  as  formerly, 
as  the  heath  is  wearing  out,  and  in  confequence  of  this  the 
ihelter  is  not  fo  good.  The  birds  of  paflage  are  fwallows, 
cuckoos,  fieldfares  and  woodcocks ;  and  we  are  alfo  vifited  at 
times  with  hecons,  ducks,  and  fea  gulls.  Eagles  are  fometimes 
feen  on  the  hills.  The  wild  quadrupeds  are,  hares,  rabbits, 
foxes,  hedge-hogs,  weafels,  polecats,  badgeis  and  otters.  The 
ikin  of  the  otter  is  valuable  as  a  fur,  and  fetches  a  j^ood 
price. 

Orchards  and  Plantations. — There  are  two  fmall  orchards, 
planted  chiefly  with  apple  trees,  which  contain  about  fix 
acres,  and,  fomc  years,  bear  confiderablc  quantities  of  fruit* 
Above  lOO  acres  are  planted  with  foreft  trees,  and  many  of 
the  inclofures  are  furrounded  with  finglc  rows  of  planting.. 
All  kinds  of  foreft  trees  thrive  well,  particularly  oaks,  clms> 
afhes,  beeches,  planes,  and  Scotch  firs  *• 

Climate, — The  air  is  healthy,  dry,  and  warm,  fubjs£l  neither 
to  fogs  nor  damps-  Snow  does  not  lie  long  on  the  low  ground; 
particularly  between  the  Devon  and  the  hills,  which  is  pro- 
bably owing  to  the  natural  warmth  of  the  air  or  foil.  The 
healthincfs  of  the  two  villages,  at  the  foot  of  the  hills,  is  un- 
doubtedly 

*  About  60  years  ago,  the  common  broom  grew  fo  tall  and  luxuriant 
bear  the  maxife,  that  the  crowi  and  magpies  built  tbeir  nsfts  in  the  branchct. 


of  Tillicoultry.  201 

doubtcdiy  much  encreafe,  by  their  being  well  fupplicd  with 
plenty  of  excellent  water.  ' 

Difeafes. — ^Therc  are  no  difeafes  any  way  peculiar  to  Til- 
licoultry, §  or  that  can  be  faid  to  be  prevalent.  Epidemic 
difeafes,  fuch  as  fevers,  fluxes,  the  fmall-pox,  the  meafles, 
and  the  c^iincough  attack  us  at  times,  but  not  more  frequent- 
ly than  they  do  others.  Rhftumatifms  are  not  uncommon, 
as  tlie  people  arc  much  expofed  to  tain  and  cold,  in  follow- 
ing their  employments  in  the  fields,  f  Within  thcfe  25 
yeais,  a  great  many  young  perfons  have  died  of  confump- 
tions,  but  the  author  is  not  able,  eitlier  to  afcertain  the  num- 
ber, or  point  out  the  caufcs.  Slow  fevers  fome  times  arc 
prevalent.  And  people  have  been  known  to  recover,  after 
remaining  in  them  30,  or  even  40  days.  The  ague  ufed  to 
be  frequent,  but  it  is  now  almod  unknown.  This  happy 
change  is  perhaps  owing  to  the  lands  being  better  drained 
than  formerly,  or  to  the  houfes  being  kept  more  cleanly. 

Vol.  XV.  C  c  warm, 

$  The  laft  tifne  the  plagse  was  in  Scotland^  it  did  not  reach  Tillicoul- 
try, though  a  good  many  perfons  died  of  it  at  Alva.  One  man  however  ha- 
ving  died  fuddenly  in  the  Wefter  town,  the  people  were  afraid  to  touch  the 
corpfe,  or  even  to  enter  the  houfe.  It  was  pnUed  down,  and  the  iinall  emi* 
nence,  which  this  occafioncd,  was  called  Botchy  Calm. 

5  It  is  worth  mentioning  that  one  William  Hunter,  a  collier,  was  cured 
in  the  fear  1758,  of  an  inveterate  rheumatifm  or  gout,  by  drinking  freely  of 
new  ale,  full  of  barm  or  yeft.  Tlie  poor  man  had  been  confined  to  his  bed 
for  a  year  and  a  half,  having  almoft  entirely  loft  the  nfe  of  his  limbs.  On 
the  evening  of  ffauJftl  Mtaday,  as  it  is  called,  (t.  t.  the  firil  Monday  of  the 
New  Year,  O.  S.)  fome  of  his  neighbours  came  to  make  merry  with  him. 
Though  he  could  not  rife,  yet  he  always  took  his  fiure  of  the  ale,  as  it  paiTed 
round  the  company,  and,  aa  ibt  end,  became  much  intoxicated.  The  confe- 
^uence  was,  that  he  had  the  ufe  of  his  limbs  the  next  morning,  and  was  able 
to  walk  about.  He  laved  more  than  7/o  yeats  after  this,  and  never  had  j(l« 
imalleft  return  of  bit  old  comphunt. 


902  Statijiical  Account. 

warm,  and  dry.  The  dyfenteicy  was  unknown  here  for  ma- 
ny years.  It  has,  however,  appeared  of  late  three  different 
times,  and  carried  off  a  good  many  peifons,  chiefly  won^en. 
As  this  alarming  malady  always  broke  out  in  the  end  of  har- 
veft,  fome  have  been  apt  to  imagine,  that,  if  it  vyas  not  caught 
^  by  infe£lion,  it  arofe  from  the  colds  and  damps  to  which 
the  people  were  expofed  in  reaping)  or  to  a  frequent  ufe  of 
potatoes  not  brought  to  a  proper  (late  of  matupty.  The 
people  have  in  general  an  averfion  to  inoculation  for  tbp 
imall-poXj  yet  this  prejudice  is  beginning  to  wear  away  X. 

P^«/fl/wff.— Tillicoultry  is  a  finall  pariib,  yet  pretty  popu- 
lous for  its  fizc. 

Population  Table  or  the  Parish  of  Tillicoultry. 

For  thde  xS  jtas\  paft,  tbe  annuhl  average  nambcr  of  fonli  has  ^een    S74 
T^ht  higheft  real  number  of  aoy  year  during  that  period,  was  919 

Andtheloweft,  .  -  •  •  829! 

Difference,,              -                      •                      -  90 

In  the  year  Z789,  the  number  of  fouls  ifa«                   -  903 

Of  thele  there  belonged  to  the  Eftabliihed  Church,  741 

And  to  the  Seceflion,                        -                     -  1(^1 

The  following  UJis  were  taken  tn  January  I79i>  and  (hew  the  Numhen^ 
Agts^  CoHdttMHs,  and  EmpUymemtt  of  th^  iphabitanti  at  that  time. 

t  Many  children  took  the  foiall  pox,  Uft  year,  in  the  natural  way,  on^ 
one  of  whom  died,  being  a  iickly  ^hild*  Were  the  imalKpoz  to.be  always 
equally  &Tourablc,  inoculation  would' fall  into  difufe.  The  author  has  foiqe 
times  remarked,  that  when  the  &me  difeafes,  fuch  as-dyfenteries,  fevers,  ami 
the  £malI-pox,  have  prevailed  in  Alva  and  TilHcoultry,  more  in  proportion 
iiave  died  in  Alva  than-  here.  This  was  probably  occafioned  by  the  honles 
being  more  crooded  together  in  the  one  place  than,  thie  other,  and  the  air  |^ 
ing  more  confioed,  and  the  infedion  more  liable  to  fpread. 


of  Tillicouhry. 


203 


NoMBBEt,  Sizu,  »&d  Acts, 

Total  Dumber  of  fouls,  853 

—  Families,            -  »xa 

Males,                     -  373 

Females,                   •  4S0 

Majority  of  females,  X07 

No  of  pcrfons  under  10  yean  of 


ag.c. 


•  Between  10  and  ao, 

■  ■  »o  and  50, 

50  and  70, 

'       70  and  85, 


^38 
163 
301 
124 
»7 


COMOITIONI,  COUNT&T,  RtLI- 
GTON,   &C. 

No.  of  married  perfons^  27  S 

Widowers,  -  ^ 

Widows,  -  54 

Bachelors  who  keep  houfe,  it 
— — —  Pcrfon*  repding  bttt  not 

bo^n  in  Tillicoultry,     aoo 
■■  Born  abroad,  5 

t  Heritors,  xo 

—  Clergymen,  x 
— —  School-mafters,  x 
*  i    >  fa  Cottimunicants  of  the 

Eftablilhment,        -        359 

;  Ditto  of  the  SeceifioD,        ,9  7 

'   ■  Epifcopalians,  % 

'  Cameronlaos,  X 

Occu^AtioAs. 
No.  of  Farmers, 
d      >—  Weavers,       v 

—  Wrights, 
— >— —  Mafons, 
^— —  Sniithsj 


34 

ai 

6 

7 

3 


No.  of  Shoe-makeit, 
— —  Tailors, 
■  Miners, 
■  Labourers, 


3 
8 

4 

X 

t 

X* 

X 

1% 


— —  Gardeners, 

MiUers, 

■  Dancing  mmflers, 
-1— »—  Male  boufc  fervants, 
■    Female  ditto, 
■    ■  "^  Male  labouring  fertants,   a; 

■  '         Female  ditto,  -  1% 
Annual  AyaaAOKs,  for  21  yeariL. 

'^o.  of  Marriages  5,  -  7 

^—^^  Baptifms  for  ditto,  30 

'■  i        Burials  for  ditto  f $  X8 

■'    ■      Males  bom  for  ditto,  15} 

-:— ..— ^  Females  bom  for  ditto,      14 

•  Peribns  in  each  family,        4 

■  Ditto  in  each  farmer's 
feihlly,  -  5 

Propoktions. 
Ofmalet  to  females,  nearly  ^3/04 
Of  manied  mm  and  widow- 

.ers,  to  Bachelors  who  keep 

hoult^,  about  13 

Of  widowers  to  widows,         x 
Of.  males  bom  to  females,     ao§ 
Or  about,  X3 

Total  nmnber  of  males  bom 

during  the  lafl  ai  years. 
Ditto  of  females  within  that 

period,  .  .304 


X 

6 

1% 

% 
3»9 


Majority  of  males  born,  aj 

Annual  average  of  more  males 
than  females,    x  /o  1  and  a -fifth 

iNCKElse 

^  For  II  months  preceding  November  X7S9,  tliere  were  only  two  grown 
up  perfons  buried  in  the  church  yards  of  Tillicoultry ;  and  for  la  months  pre- 
ceding June  of  the  prefcpt  y«ar  1793^  there  IWTe  been  Dciihcc  manriagei  bw 
froclamacioBSi 


204  Statijlical  Account 

InC&£A6E. 


No.  of  fouls  in  1755, 

787 

/ 

Ditto  in  178a,  (as  above,) 

853 

Incrcafc, 

9* 

909 

Ditto 

5« 

.     ,  Total  incrcafc  in  38  years,    15 » 

Caufes  of  the  Increafe, — By  comparing  Dr  Wcbftcr's  lift 
.  with  the  number  of  inhabitants  during  the  two  laft-  years, 
there  is  an  evident  increafe.  It  is  perhaps  owing  to"  the  e- 
(labfidiment  of  the  Devon  company  in  the  neighbourhood  cf, 
and  the  working  of  iron-ftone  in  Tillicoultry,  that  the  num- 
ber of  the  inhabitants  has  fo  greatly  encreafed  fuKe  the  be- 
ginning of  the  year  1792.  '  It  is  fomewhat  rcmarkabk,  that 
when  the  lifte  were  taken  in  January  1792,  all  the  mafons, 
'miners,  and  labourers  were  employed,  but  there  were  fcarcc- 
ly  any  of  the  labourers,  employed  in  the  parifii. 

Prolific  Afc/A^r/.-— There  arc  at  prefent  living  in  Tillicoul- 
try eleven  married  women,  who  have  been  delivered  of  twin 
children.  One  of  them  has  had  twins  two  different  times, 
,and  another,  in  the  year  1765,  about  three  y,ears  before,  the 
birth  of  her  twins,  brought  forth  three  children  at  one 
birth,  all  boys  and  of  a  good  fize.  Two  of  the  children  died 
ifi  the  firft  month,  and  the  thitd,  a  healtliy  child,  died  of  the 
fmall  pox  when  two  years  old.  But  what  is  ftill  more  uncom- 
xnon,  in  the  year  1752,  Katherine  Hunter,  the  wife  of  George 
Sharp  a  labourer,  brought  forth  four  children  -at* one 
birth, — two  males  and  two  females.  They  were  all  baptiz- 
ed, but  being  fmall  and  weakly,  none  of  them  lived  above 
three  weeks. 

Villages  and  Houfes, — ^Tillicoultry  contains  three  villages, 
WefleriQwn^  EgrlJlo%vn  and  CoaJ/haughtofi,  an4  all  the  inhabi- 
tants 


ofTilKcouUri^.  205 

tants  live  in  thefe  except  36  families.  Of  thefe  families  on- 
ly three  refide  in  the  Ochils.  The'Houfes  cohfift  of  nothing 
but  the  ground  floOr,  except  8,  of  which,  5  houfes  have  oii- 
ly  one  ftory  raifed  above  the  ground  floor,  two  have  2  ftories, 
and  one  has  three  ftories,  and  there  are  only  three  houfes, 
the  manfe  included,  which  arc  fubjed  to  the  duty  on  win- 
dow lights. 

Manufacfures. — ^Tillicoultry   has  been  long  famous  for 

weaving  a  coiiffc  woolen  cloth,  called  r////Vi«//ry  iS^rgr.     It 

IS  a  fpqcies  of  fhaloon,  having  ,«;£|)r/?frf  warp  and  jar/i  waft, 

and   is  reported  to  have  been  wrought  here,   as  early  as  the 

feign  of  Mary  Q^een.of  Scots,     The  average  price  is  is* 

Sterling  per  yard.     Though  the  manufadure  has  now,  in  a 

great  meafurc,  'left  us,  and  gone  to  Alva,  (like  the  arts  and 

fcienceSf  from  Eajl  to  Weft^  yet  all  the  cloth  of  this  kind  is 

fold  in  the  markets,  under  the  name  of  TUiicoutry  Serge.    It 

is  much  to  bjs  regretted,  that  more  attention  is  not  paid  to 

this  manufafture  in  the  place  where  is  was  invented,  or  at 

lead  brought  to  the  greateft  perfe£lion.     About  50  years  a- 

go,  a  fergc  web  frotfi  Alva  would  not. fell  in  the  iparket, 

while  one  from  Tillicoultry  remained  unfold.    But  this  is  by 

no  means  the  cafe  at  prefent.     The  author  of  this  account 

can  give  no  prccife  ttatement    of   the    quantity   of   fergc 

wrought  here,  as  the  ftanip  mailer  keeps  no  lift.     He  fup- 

pofes,  however,  that  he  ftamps  annually  7000  ells  of  fcrge, 

and  an  equal  quantity  of  plaidtng.    Some  of  the  weavers  are 

now  Employed  in  making  muffins,  but  as  this  branch  is  ftill 

in  its  infancy,  it  is  impofEble  to  fay  viitli  what  advantage  it 

may  be  attended. 

f  ; 

Prices  of  Labour  and  Provlfions, — The  prices  of  labour, 
and  of  many  of  tlie  neceflT^ries  of  life,  have  rifen  much,  and 

arc 


it6  Statijlical  Account 

aTe  ftiU  rifing.  It  may  be  faid  to  be  nearly  double  of  what 
it  was  50  years  ago.  For  example,  the  wages  of  a  taylor 
per  day,  beGdes  his  diet,  was  4d.  Sterling,  now  they  are  8d  ; 
of  a  day  labourer,  5d.  or  6d.  now  lod.  or  is  *,  of  a  raafon,  is. 
now  IS*  6d.  and  is.  8d.  or  2s ;  of  a  labouring  fervant  per  an- 
num, 3I.  now  from  61.  to  lol.  The  price  of  a  fowl  was  5d. 
now  it  is  IS.  and  fometimes  more  \  of  a  pound  of  butter,  5d., 
BOW  pd.  or  lod.  and  of  a  pound  of  cheefe^  ad.  now  4d* 

^ads. — ^T*he  roads  along  the  hill  foot  have  i  gravel  bot* 
torn,  and  are  tolerably  good,  and  likewiie  the  road  which 
leads  from  the  hill  foot  to  Goalfnaughton  by  the  bridge.  But 
the  fouth  road,  which  comprehends  a  fpace  of  more  than 
2  Englifh  miles,  is  in  a  wretched  ftate,  having  been  mudi 
ncglefltcd  of  late  years,  and  the  greatefl  part  of  it  never  ha- 
ving been  properly  made,  at  leaii  to  the  eaftward  Goalfnauglw 
ton.  '  ^ 

CA«rrA.-^The  patron  and  Aij^erior  of  Tillicoultry,  is  James 
BatJCE,  Efq;  at  prefent  a  minor,  and  an  enfign  in  the  army* 
He  is  alfo  titular  of  the  teinds,  and  all  the  heritors  and  feuera 
hold  of  him.  ♦    The  prefent  minifter  f  is  a  bachelor  J.   The 

manfe 

*  Hit  immeiilate  ance&oivjpEjere  the  late  proprietors  of  Kinroft.  He  ii 
a  defccodent  of  the  celehrated  ArchiteA,  Sir  William  Btiuce.  It  isfup* 
pofed  by  Pinkerton,  with  a  great  degree  of  probability,  in  his  cotledloil 
of  ancient  Scottifh  poemt,  that  Sir  John  Bruck  of  Kinrofs  was  the  author 
of  the  weU,known,  and  much  efteemed . poem,  Harotknutb,  which  has 
been  commonly  afcribed  to  Mr*  Wardlaw.  .  It  is  probable,  alTo,  that'  Sir 
John  was  the  author  of  the  Vision,  and  fome  other  excellent  Scottiib  poems. 

f  The  names  of  his  predeceflbrs  in  office,  as  far  as  they  arc  knewn,  and 
die  dates  of  their  ordinations,  are  fubjoincd. 

MiNISltftS 

*    }  It  may  be  accounted  a  Gngular  fad,  that  nope  of  the  minifters  of  Til- 
licoultry have  been  marri«d|  ilnce  the  Revolution  1688,  ex(^ept  Mr  Taylor* 


pf  Tillicoultry. 


207 


manfe  was  built  in  1 766^  and  is  the  fecond  in  the  fame  place^ 
fince  the  year  1730.  The  new  church  is  fituated  near  the 
panfe,  almoft  e^ui-<li(lant  from  the  3  villages,  and  was  built 
in  1773.  It  i$  a  fmall  neat  building,  well  lighted,  but  not 
very  commodioufly  feated.  There  are  two  church-yards, 
one  where  the  old  church  was  fituated,  ||  and  the  other  at  the 
new  church.     The  old  manfe  has  long  been  converted  into 

a 

Ml  N  UTf  »  S  ^  TiUkouJtry  fir  ttt  UJ  146  ytart . 

Date  of  admiffoH.  Tiau  •/ Incumhaief^ 

Mwtbs.        Teaft,         Ttara,  M^iiibt,  Dmyu 
Mr  Andrew  Rhynd,  (the  precife 


date  of  his  admiiBon,  uncer- 

► 

tain). 

'  Z648  ab<mt 

21       c 

>         « 

Mr  John  Foreft,  ordaiped 

300a.    X669 

6          4 

\        0 

Mr  Robert  Keith, 

a;  Feb.     i6?6 

z6         ] 

f       »4 

Mr  Robert  Gourlay. 

13  Apr.     1691 

12        i 

1       22 

Mr  John  Taylor, 

7  July    1714 

13      < 

f       15 

Mr  Robert  Duncan  f. 

25  Jan.    1718. 

2          i 

^        0 

%7  May  1731 

34         4 

\        0 

Mr  James  Oonrky, 

25  Sep.  1765 

B        i 

P        0 

}At  William  Ofborn,           • 

a4Fcb.  1774 

20        c 

>         8 

US 


f  Mr  DoNCAN^c  Leffures  m  ihe  EpifiU  U  tit  Hehrevu  vfere  puhUJM  after 
^it  deatbt  and  are  mutb  efiecmedfir  tbeir  piety ,  ortbodeeey^  and  Uamim^, 

I  The  old  chnrch  and  manfe  were  fitvated  near  the  hoofe  of  TiHicoal- 
try.  The  chnrch  belonged  to  the  Abbey  of  Cambnikenneth,  having  becft 
granted  to  it  by  King  Malcolm,  together  with  the  tythes  and  pettinenta. 
3ut  after  the  Reformation,  the  family  of  MAaa  became  heriuble  proprietors 
of  the  church,  parfonage,  vicarage,  and  10  acres  of  gebe.  And  as  the  abbot 
and  convent  of  Cambnikenneth  had  itx  the  teinds  in  tack  to  the  Colvills  of 
Cnlrois,  the  proprietors  of  Tillicoultry,  Johm  Earl  of  Make,  May  3eth  1628, 
ratified  the  tacks,  and  alio  the  feu  charters,  and  infeftment  of  the  glebe ;  and 
granted  prooiratory  for  refigning  the  fame  into  the  haluli  of  his  Majefty,  in 
favour  of  Ja^is  Lord  Coltil,  and  hit  foD« 


ZO&  Statijltcal  Aficount 

a  ftablc,  and  the  old  glebe  is  an  orchard.  The  ftipend  con-* 
fifls  of  120I.  Scotch,  including  communion-clement  money, 
34  bolls  of  oats,  24  bolls  of  barley,  and  6  bolls  of  meal.  It 
<;oramenced  in  the  year  1648,  and  fince  that  time  there  has 
been  no  augmentation.  The  minifter  has  the  privilege  of 
getting  his  coals  for  paying  the  collier  the  price  of  working, 
and  he  has  alfo  property  in  the  hills,  for  maintaining  7  or  8 
ffieep.  The  glebe  was  exchanged  in  the  year  1730,  when 
the  manfe  was  removed  to  its  prefent  fituation.  It  lies  in  4 
different  pieces,  and  ought  to  coniift  of  13  acres. 

School. — ^Thcrc  is  a  parochial  fctoolraaftcr,  whofe  falary  is 
lool.  Scotch.  He  has  alfo  a  dwelling  houfe  and  garden. 
His  annual  income,  including  falary,  and  all  emoluments, 
both  as  fchool  mafter  and  feflion  clerk,  is  extremely  fmall, 
and  fcldom  exceeds  20I.  Sterling.  The  fchool  is  kept  in  the 
Weftertown,  wjjich  is  by  no  means  centrical  or  convenient 
for  the  reft  of  the  parifli.  The  fchool  wages  arc  low,  and 
Engliih,  writing,  and  arithmetick  are  taught  for  as.  per 
<piarter,  Engliih  alone  being  only  is.  3d. 

Poor, — ^The  poor  arc  maintained  without  any  affeflment, 
and  there  are  no  beggars.  The  capital  of  ihe  poor's  money 
is  2f  2I.  Sterling,  and  the  annual  average  colle£lion  at  the 
church  door,  has  been  about  1 2  guineas,  for  18  years  paft. 
The  intereft  of  the  capital,  together  with  the  co]le£tions, 
and  the  profits  arifing  from  the  mortcloths,  proclamations  of 
maniages,  and  incidental  fines,  conftitutc  the  funds  by  which 
the  poor  are  maintained.  The  number  of  perfons  at  prefent 
llatedly  fupplied  from  the  public  charity  is  7.  But,  befidcs 
thefe,  the  kirk  feflion  occafionally  aflifts  a  great  many  more,  % 

by 

\  It  is  faid  that  about  40  or  50  years  ago,  people  wtrc  vciy  fliy  In  rccclv- 
ing  money  from  the  poor'*  funds,  but  thU  delicacy  fccms  now  to  have  cntirew 
\r  Tanilhcd. 


ojTUhcoubry.  209 

by  giving  them  money,  buying  cloths,  paying  their  houfc  rents 
and  fchool  fees  for  their  children.  Till  within  thefe  4  years, 
intereft  at  5  per  cent,  has  been  received  for  the  poor's  money, 
but  the  rate  at  prcfent  is  only  4/^r  cent,.  The  annual  ave- 
rage of  the  mortcloth  money  is  2I.  4  s.  Sterling  5  of  the  pro- 
clamations, 14s.  lod  ;  of  incidental  fines,  13s.  6d  5  of  perfons 
occafionally  affifted,  iis  ;  and  of  c?\ildren  whofe  fchool  wages 
are  paid,  5  s  or  6s.  The  lowed  ftated  weekly  allowance  is 
^dj  and  the  hi^heft  15  from  is.  to  i5d. 

Proprietors. — Befides  Mr  Bruce,  there  are  other  9  heritors, 
namely,  Lord  Cathcart,  John  Jdhnfton,  Efq;  of  Alva,  John 
Tait,  Efq;  of  Harviefton,  John  Harrowcr,  John  Paton,  Hugh 
Hamilton,  Marion  Dryfdale,  James  Ure,  and  Robert  May. 
All  the  heritors  have  houfes  in  Tillicoultry,  and  refide  in 
them,  except  Lord  Cathcart  and  Mr  Johnfton,  who  have 
fplendid  feats  in  the  neighbourhood. 

State  ofProperty.'^Tiic  cftatc  of  Tillicoultry  hae  been  in  the 
pofleffion  of  7  different  familtee  fince  the  comznencement  of 
the  laft  century,  and  has  been  6  times  fold  $.  The  advance 
of  the  price,  at  thp  two  laft  fales,  deferves  to  be  noticed ;  the 

Vol.  XV.  D  d  pric^ 

$  It  came  into  the  pofieifion  of  the  anceftors  of  Lord  Colvil  of  Cujl- 
|L0se,  in  the  reign  of  James  III.  amno  1483,  and  continued  in  that  family  till 
the  year  1634,  when  it  was  fold  to  Wii.liam  Alexander  of  Menftry,  a 
l^oET  of  great  genius,  and  afterwards  created  Eabl  of  Stutlino.  SeYeral 
of  his  poems  are  printed  in  Drum  mo nd  of  Hawthoniden'«  CoUo^os,  and 
hU  J^ar/ene/iiy  or  exhortation  on  government,  which  is  dedicated  to  Prince 
HzNRT,  the  fon  of  King  James  VI.  docs  great  honour,  both  to  the  prince 
and  the  peer.  The  eftate  was  next  purchafed  by  Sir  Alexander  Rollo  of 
DuDcnib,  in  the  year  1644;  by  Mr  John  Nicolsom  of  Carnock  in  Stir- 
ling-fliire,  in  1659  ;  by  Lord  Tillicooltrt,  one  of  the  fenators  of  the  Col- 
lege of  Juftice,  and  a  Baronet,  in  1701 ;  by  the  Hon.  Charles  Barclay 
Maitland,  of  the  family  of  Landerdale,  ia  1756;  and  by  Jamks  Bruce; 
£f4;  of  Kinrofs,  in  S7S9. 


210  Statijlical  Account 

price  paid  by  Lord  Tillicoultry  being  3,494 1.  Stcrlinj»  \ 
by  Mr  Barclay  Maitland  15,000!.  and  by  Mr  Bruce 
24,000.  Before  the  laft  fale,  a  part  of  the  eft  ate  was  fold 
to  Mr  Johnston  of  Alva  \  but  the  feus,  f  which  Mr  Barclay' 
purchafed  at  different  times,  were  fully  equivalent  to  this 
part.  This  eftate,  which,  for  a  century  apd  a  half,  h^s  been 
always  floating  in  the  market,  and  has  fo  frequently  changed 
its  proprietors,  is  now  ftriflly  entailed,  and  will  remain  in 
Mr  Bruce's  family,  the  entail  of  the  eftate  of  Kinrofs  having 
been  transferred  by  ajft  of  Pai^liampnt  to  Tillicoultry.  The 
pumber  of  the  old  feus,  or  parts,  was  40,  but  they  are  now 
moftly  bought  up,  and  ag^in  united  with  the  eftate,  or  in 
fhe  pofTeffion  of  Mr  Tait-  The  lands  9f  Killtown,  where 
lillicoultry  houfe  is  fituated^  and  the  lands  pf  CQhrJlown  01^ 
Collintow/if  belonging  to  Mr  Joi^NsioN,  were  not  fued.  It 
is  difficult  to  afcertain  the  quantity  of  Und  belonging  tQ 
each  of  the  feus,  as  more  or  lefs  feems  to  have  been  given, 
according  to  the  quality  and  value  of  the  foil,  Qnie  origi- 
nal 40th  part  at  Drimmy  contains  at*  prefent,  nearly  a^ 
much  arable  land  as  a  40th  part  and  a  half  at  Elleitown,  an4 
near  as  much  as  twp  40th  p^rts  at  Cairpftpwn.  f  Tillicoultry^ 
pays  an  annual  feu-duty  of  7  1.  $s.  Sterling,  and  166  bolls  of 
fait,  called  Khig's  malt.  This  is  a  part  of  the  Lordlhip  of 
Stirling,  having  been  originally  paid  at  the  caftlc  of  Stirling, 
for  the  ufe  of  the  King's  family,  but  was  transferred,  at  an 
parly  period,  to  the  Earl  of  Marr,  as  a  fecurity  for  fom^ 
money  lent  to  the  Crown* 

Ancient 

■j-  Lord  CoLviL  f<u64  the  greatelt  part  of  his  eftate  to  his  teoants,  >vhoin. 
he  diftinguifhes  in  his  charters,  as  auld,  kindly^  native  tenantsy  and  referved  to 
himfeU  a  certain  annoal  feu-duty,  which  appears  to  have  been  the  old  rent. 

f  It  appears  from  the  meal  paid  as  fen  ^uty  by  the  feuars  of  Caimftown^ 
and  the  money  paid  bjr  the  other  feuars,  that  a  boll  of  meal,  and  3s.  4d.  Ster- 
ling, were  confidered  as  being  of  equal  yalue,  in  the  condufion  of  the  x6tlu 
9Dd  be^miiog  of  the  xyth  centuries. 


of  Tillicoultry.  d  i  i 

i  Anctent  Charter. ^-^tXwttn  5C0  and  600  years  ago,  TilH- 

I  coullry  belonged  to  the  family  of  Marr  \  and  an  original 

charter,  granted  by  King  Alexander  III.  of  Scotland,  id 
the  14th  year  of  his  reign,  is  dill  in  the  poiTefSon  of  Mr  £r« 
^KiNE  of  Marr,  who  has  obligingly  favoured  the  author 
with  a  copy.  This  charter  is  twice  referred  to  by  Bifliop 
KiETH,  in  his  hiftory  of  the  Bifhops.  It  is  elegantly  written 
on  parchment,  with  a  very  fair  hand,  and  fine  ink,  and  is  iii 
I  every  refpea  a  remarkable  curiofity.    The  whole  parchment 

is  near  a  fquare  of  9^  inches,  and  the  writing  only  meafures 
6  inches  by  8  J. 

D  d  a  kmlnent 

§  As  thn  charter  ii  no  lefs  a  curiofity  than  many  of  thofe  contained  in 
ANoaatoN's  Di^itmuta  Sntig,  the  fubjoined'copy  will  be  an  acceptable  pre- 
fent  to  antiqoariam :  '*  AtazANDKa,  Dei  gratia.  Rex  Scotomm,  omnibul 
probis  hominibus  toti^is  terre  fue-^Salutem.  Sciant  prcfeotes  et  {"atari  qood 
Alrdmus  de  MEsaa,  fiUus  et  hetes  quondam  Alkumi  de  Masaa,  totant 
icrramTuam  de  TuLLicouLTar^  cum  pertincDtiis^  in  feodo  de  Clackmanan^ 
quam  de  nobis  tenoit  hereditarie,  per  defe^Slam  feruitii  de  dida  ten  a  nobis  de- 
hiil,  coram  ploribos noftri  Regni  ma^atibtis,  fdlicet,  Alcxandro  CvM^rsi 
Comite  de  Bouchan,  tunc  JuiUciario  Scotie,  Huoon i  de  AavaNiTH,  Magif- 
tio,  W.  Wi&cBAan  tunc  Canccllario,  Faacusio  Comtn,  Waltkro  de  A- 
BcaNYTB,  WiLLiaLMO  dc  Ltiurskr,  et  NicaoLAo  de  RoTraroan,  ae 
multis  alii%  die  San^e  Tiinlutis,  anno  gtatie  millefimo  docmtefimo  feia- 
gefimo  primov  ipud  Caltnim  Poeliarum,  per  fuibim  et  bacnlnm  nobis  reddi.- 
diiTet,  et  totum  jus  fuum  quod  habuit  in  dida  terra  cum  pertinentiis,  Tel  ha- 
bere potuic  pro  fe  et  heredibuk  fais  in  peipetuum  quietum  clamiiret,  nos  to« 
<am  di^m  terram  dt  TuLLicouLTRTy  cum  pertinentiSus,  Wiiliilmo  Co- 
miei  de  MAaa,  dilcd^o  noflro  et  fideli  pro  faomagio  et  fervitio  ^do,  dedimua 
conceflimus,  et  hac  prefcnti  caru  noilra  confirmaTimus,  fine  altquo  retinemen- 
to,  tenendam  et  habendam  eidcm  Williclmo,  et  beredibus  fuis,  de  nof)i^ 
et  hercdibuB  nodris  in  feode  et  hereditate  per  cafdem  divifas  per  quas 
Wai.T£ru8,  filius  ALAN2  Senefcftlli,^  tunc  Jufiiciarius  Scotie,  et  Ro- 
OERVS  AufNBL,  tunc  vicccomcj  de  Strjueltn,  predido  Alevmo,  patrl 
diAi  Aleami,  ex  precepto  inclito  recordationis  domini  Alexandri  Itegii; 
pacris  ooUti  carilllmi,  allignauenint  et  tradiderunt,  cum  incremento  quod  per 
eofdem  WALTxapu  fiUum  Ala^u  et  RooxaeM  Avbmel  fadumfuit.  Ma- 


^12  Statijiical  Account 

Eminent  men, — Lord  CoLViL,  who  was  raifed  to  the  peer- 
age by  James  VI.  in  1609,  was  a  man  of  a  military  genius^ 
and  ferved  with  much  reputation,  in  the  wars  under  Henrt 
the  IV.  of  France.  Returning  to  Scotland,  loaded  with  ho»- 
nours,  he  reHded  at  Tillicoultry,  and  m  his  old  age,  I'eviGted 
the  Frerich  court.  As  he  appeared  in  the  old  fa(hioncd  mi- 
litary drcfs,  which  he  had  formerly  worn  in  the  wars,  the 
courtiers  were  aJl  amazed  when  he  entered  the  royal  prcfcnce. 
But  no  fooner  did  Henry  obferve  the  old  warrior,  than  he 
clafped  hirti  in  his  arms,  and  embraced  him  with  the  great--^ 
eft  afFe£lion,.to  the  utter  aftonifliment  of  all  prefent.  After 
his  return,  Lord  Colvil  fpent  much  of  his  time  at  TillicouU 
try,  and  was  particularly  fond  of  walking  on  a  beautiful  ter« 
race,  at  the  north  end  of  the  Kirk-lull,  and  ©f  repoung  him- 
fclf  under  a  thorn  tree,  the  venerable  trunk  of  which  dill  re- 
mains 

TBEO  Clertco  de  TuUlcdnltry,  in  nemore,  in  faltibns,  in  planii  et  afperi^  in 
tcrris  ec  aquit,  in  pratis  et  pafcuis,  in  morit  et  niarefiis,  in  ftagnia  et  malendi- 
nis,  cum  focco  et  facca,  cum  fnrca  et  foflk,  cum  Tol  et  Tbeitt  et  wfanieAef^  et 
cum  omnibus  allis  judis  pertinentiis  fttis,  et  cum  omnibus  natiui*  ejufdem 
terre,  qui  die  collationis  fadlepredido  Aleumo^patri  didi  Aleumt,  in  dida  ter« 
ra  inanentcs  fucrunt,  llbere,  quiete,  plenarie  et  honoriike,  pet  feruitium  u- 
niui  militis,  faluis  noftris  eleem^finiL  Conceffimus  etiam  eidem  Williilm4>^ 
Qt  ipfe  et  heredes  Aii,  habehnt  ct  tcneant  didam  terram  in  liberum  foreilam. 
Qua  re  firmicer  prohibemus,  ne  quis  Gne  eorum  licentia  in  pirdi^  terra  fr- 
cet,  aue  venetur  fuper  noftram  plenariam  forKtfaduram  decem  librarum. 
Teflibus,  vf  nerabili  patre  Game  lino,  epifcopo  Sandi  Andree,  ALCXANDtio 
CuHTN,  Comlte  de  Bouchan  Jufticiario  Scotie,  Waltero  Comite  de  MoV' 
TETB,  Johanns  Cumtn,  WiLLiELMo  de  Bkeecmtn,  Eusi  Acuto  dc  Tur- 
ribus,  RegiNaldo  le  Chen,  apud  Forfar,  vicdifimo  primo  die  Decern briB> 
anno  regui  noflri  quarto  decimo." 

After  the  granting  of  this  charter,  TlUicoultry  remained  for  a  coufideni. 
ble  period  in  the  poiTeflion  of  the  family  of  Mark  ;  but  on  account  of  a  pre-^ 
tended  fticceflion  to  Lady  Isabella  DoucLA9,CottDtels  of  MARR,wasfeit« 
ed  by  the  Crown,  notwithftanding  an  ezprefs  declaration  and  proniife,  by 
HoBKRT  UI.  nnder  the  Great  Sea),  that  he  would  accept  of  no  lands  belong 
to  that  lady. 


ofTtlUcoultrj.  ^1% 

mains.  It  unfortunateFy  bappenedi  that  (landing  one  day 
on  a  ftone,  and  looking  up  to  the  thorn  tree,  dcfcribing  his 
battles,  he  fell  down  the  floping  bank  of  the  terrace,  and,  it 
is  faid,  was  killed  on  the  fpot,  in  the  year  1620.  It  may  not 
be  improper  to  add,  under  this  article,  that  in  the  popifh  le- 
gends, Tillicoultry  is  mentioned  as  having  been  rifited  by  St. 
Serf  or  Servakus,  an^  the  fcene  of  fome  of  his  pretended 
miracles.  St.  Serf  lived  m  the  end  of  the  6th  century,  and 
there  is  a  particular  account  of  him  in  Wintoffs  Chronicle^f 
a  manufcript  in  the  Cottonian  library  f .  Notwithftanding 
the  very  remote  antiquity  of  St  Serf,  his  memory  is  ftill,  in 
fome  degree,  prefervcd,  though  his  name  is  almoft  en- 
tirely forgot ;  but  he  is  reprefented,  by  tradition,  as  a  holy 
man,  who  travelled  about  the  country,  with  a  &€ape  Goat  X3 
which  was  unfortunately  killed.  There  is  a  heap  of  ftones, 
called  Cairn  Cur  or  Gwr,  which  feems  to  have  been  intend- 
ed to  perpetuate  the  ftory  of  tlie  goat.  The  name  has  an  c- 
vident  affinity  to  the  Latin  word  Gapirf  and  to  the  Gaelic^ 

Gobhur^  which  figmfies  a  goat. 

Anttquiiiesi 

\  Win  TON,  the  author  of  the  chronicle,  was  canon  regalar  of  St  An- 
drews,  and  prior  of  the  monaiUry  of  Loch  Levexi,  and  Uved  in  the  end  of  the 
24  century.  « ^ 

t  An  exceiptfrom  this  chronicle  was  lately  pttbliihed  by  Pjnkbkton,  in 

the  Apfiendix  to  his  coUeAioo  of  Old  Scottiih  poems.     One  of  the  mit  acle* 

reported  to  have  been  perferaoed  by  St  Seriy  waa,  the  raifiag  two  jotm%  men 

to  Iife»  who  appear  to  have  bees  brothers.    The  account  given  of  this  in  the 

chronicle,  if  not  ^ry  elegant,  has  at  leaft  the  merit  of  being  ahnndOTtty 

brief: 

«  In  TuUycultry,  cil  a  wif 

*•  Two  (bays  be  raiilt  frae  ded  to  lyf." 

• 

t'  In  WiKTQN*a  chronicle,  in  place  of  a  Icape  goat,  mcnuon  is  made  of  « 
rom.  The  killing  of  the  ram  occafioned  another  miracle.  The  ftory  is  a^ 
bimdantly  lodicrous)  and  aa  kdicvouily  reiaud  by  the  poetical  biographer  : 

Xhi» 


214  Statical  Account 

Antiquities. "^TYitXQ  arc  few  curiofitics,  or  remains  of  an- 
tiquity*. The  rude  Druidical  circle,  on  the  fouth  end  of  the 
Cuninghar,  deferves  feme  fmall  notice.  It  is  compofed  of 
granites  about  5  j  feet  long,  and  its  diameter  is  near  60  feet. 
The  fpot  was  covered  by  the  late  proprietor,  with  a  circular 
thicket  of  Scotch  firs,  and  is  marked  by  Stobie,  in  his  fplcn- 
did  map  of  Perth  and  Clackmannan  (hires.  On  the 
caflle  Craig,  the  foundations  $  of  a  round  circular  building 
arc  ft  ill  vifible. 

darker, 

Hiis  holy  man  had  a  ram. 

That  he  had  fed  up  of  a  lam  : 

Aod  oyfit  hyxn  ul  folow  zj, 

Quherevir  he  paflxt  in  his  way. 

A  theyf  this  fcheppe  in  Ackien  fial« 
'  And  et'hym  op  in  pecis  (inalle. 
~X^hen  San  A  Serf  his  ram  had  myQ, 

Quha  that  it  ftal  was  few  that  wift  : 

On  prefumption  nevirthclef** 
/  He  that  it  ftal  areftyl  was  ; 

And  til  SanA  Serf  fyne  was  he  broucht. 

That  fchctpe  he  faid  that  he  ftal  noucht; 

And  tharfoff,  for  to  fwer  an  ath^» 

He  faid  that  he  walde  nocht  be  laythe. 
'  But  fone  he  worthit  rede  for  fchayme. 

The  fcheype  that  bletyt  in  his  wayme. 
/        SwB  was  he  taynetyt  fchamfully ; 

And  at  San<£t  Serf  aflcyt  mercy. 

•  Tt  is  reported,  there  was  a  Roman  ftation  on  the  north  end  of  the  Cutt^ 
ibghar.  About  50  yearR  ago,  the  place  was  dag  by  order  of  Sir  Robert 
Btuart,  and  fereral  urns,  containing  human  bones,  were  found. 

§  Between  thefe  and  the  hills,  there  has  beeik  a  ditch  by  way  of  defence.  , 
The  Tul^ar  tfadition  is»  that  the  Ptycbti  had  a  (bronj^  fortification  in  this 
p-ace,  and  that  the  (tones  of  the  edifite  were  carried  away,  when  the  caflle 
of  Sctrling  wa«  biittt.  A  large  ftone  coffin,  neatly  cemented  with  whitiih 
clay ,  was  difcovered  about  8  years  ago,  in  the  midft  of. a  great  caien  or  heap 
of  ri  -nes  in  Wertertown,  anciently  called  Caimtowo*  It  wim  fiUcd  with  &il» 
fiiMh.  an  J  coQtained  two  finaU  bonesv 


of  TiSicoultrj.  it$ 

CharaBer^  &c.— Wc  have  our  good  qualities  as  well  iis 
our  bad.  Publicly  to  expofe  the  one  might  give  ofience,  and 
could  do  no  good.  To  praife  the  other  might  appear  often- 
tation  and  flattery.  It  is,  however,  but  juftice  to  mention^ 
that  the  people  are  fober  and  indudrious,  and  attached  to 
the  King  and  Conftitution,  and  to  the  Preftyterjan  form  of 
worfliip  and  Church  Government.  The  men  moftly  betake 
themfelves  to  country  work,  or  to  employments  conne£led 
M-ith  hufbandry;  Pew  of  them  enlift  in  the  army,  and  not 
many  of  them  engage  in  the  feafaring  line.  The  women  arc 
thrifty  and  laborious,  attentive  to  their  families,  and  are  much 
employed  in  fpinning  warded  and  woolen  yarn  j  particu- 
larly the  latter.  All  ranks  drefs  better  and  finer  than  they 
formerly  did.  And  as  an  inftance  of  refinement  in  the  fur- 
niture of  the  houfes,  it  rtiay  be  mentioned,  that  in  the  year 
1764,  there  were  only  9  or  10  clocks  in  the  parifh,  wjiereasi 
at  prefcnt,  there  are  above  60,     ' 

Dlfaivantages. — It  is  apprehended,  that  Tillicoultry  will 
decreafe  in  the  number  of  its  inhabitants,  from  the  following 
^aufes  : — ift  The  divifion  of  the  conunon  in  the  hills. — 2d 
The  fale  of  many  of  the  feus,  each  of  which  maintained  fa- 
milies ; — 3d  The  neglefl  of  the  coal  5  and,  4th,  The  fmall 
attention  and  encouragement  which  is  given  to  the  weaving 
of  Tillicoultry  ferge.  It  muft  be  acknowledged,  however, 
that  the  eftablifhment  of  the  Devon  Company,  in  the  imme- 
diate neighbourhood,  will,  perhaps,  overbalance  all  thefe 
apparent  difadvantages,  though  the  writer  of  thb  account  is 
by  no  means  fanguine  in  his  expeflation  of  that  efi^e£t. 

Sources  of  Melioration. — The  following  particulars  are  hum- 
t>ly  fubjoined,  as  probable  fources  of  improvement,  and  me- 
Upration  : — ^ift,  If  the  public  fchool  were  fituated  more  in  the 

centre 


ax6  Stati/Ucal  Account 

centre  of  the  ]^ri(h,  or  if  a  ichool  were  cftabUflied  at  Coals-* 
saughton.  2dly^  If  a  bridge:  were  built  o^irer  the  Dovan,  be** 
low  the  Weftcrtown.  3dljr,  If  the  farmers  were  to  fallow 
more  of  tlieir  land,  and  to  pay  more  attention  to  fowing 
wheat.  4thly,  If  fome  encouragement  were  given  to  the  weav- 
ing of  Tillicoultry  ferge.  5thlyy  If  the  cod  were  to  be  wrought 
as  extenCvely  as  formerly,  for  fupplying  the  country  and  the 
foreign  markets^  6thly,  If  a  waggon-way  were  made  for 
carrying  the  coals  to  AU09  harbour.  7thly,  If  a  navigable 
canal  were  made  by  means  of  the  Devon  to  join  the  Jorth. 
Kthly,  If  fome  puUic  works^  fuch  as  an  woolen  manpfafbry^ 
or  a  cotton  mill,  or  a  printing  field,  were  ere£ked  at  the  Wef- 
tertown,  as  the;  Gtuation  is  thought  highly  convenient  and 
advantageous  for  fuch  lifeful  works.  But  the  great  fources 
of  improvement  and  melioratioji  are,  honefty,  induftry,  fo- 
briety,  and  a  regard  to  religion,  without  which,  and  the  blef? 
(ing  of  Gpd|  all  human  fchemes  will  be  nugatory  and  vain* 


|7UMfi£R« 


rjf  Benholms.  2iy 


NUMBER   XIIL 


PARISH  0?    BENHOLME. 


fCoUNTY  OF  KiKCARDlNE,  PrESBTTERY  OF  FoRDUN,  St* 

NOD  OF  Angus  and  Mearns.) 


Bj  the  Rev.  Mr.  James  Scott,  Minijier. 


Extent  find  Svfface, 

A  HIS  patifli  IS  about  3  Englifti  miles  iil  lengthy  ahd  near- 
ly as  much  in  breadth.  The  German  Ocean  bounds  it  oh 
the  S.  E.  The  face  of  the  coxintry  is  confiderably  diverfificd* . 
Clofe  upon  the  fliorc  lies  a  narrow  ftrip^of  land  almoft  level 
with  the  fca  :  Adjoining  to  this,  a  bank  or  rifing  ground,  of 
coniiderable  height,  extends  the  whole  length  of  the  parifli. 
Above  this  ancient  boundary  of  the  ocean,  which  is  ftecp  iii 
fome  places,  and  flopes  gently  in  others,  the  ground  rifes  by 
an  unequal  afcent  towards  the  Ni  W.  A  chain  of  little 
hiils,  whofe  fummits  are  covered  with  heath,  run  along  the 
S.  W.  boundary,  and  a  rifing  ground,  fome  hundred  yards 
above  the  level  of  the  fea^  terminates  the  view  on  the  N.  Ei 
The  interior  parts  of  the  parifti  confift  of  hill  and  dtk* 
Vol.  XV.  E  t 


a  1 8  Stattjlical  Account 

RivuUtSy  Cafcades^  Mi/l,  Qive,  tffc. — ^Two  fmall  rinxlctg-, 
arifmg  on  the  fide  adjacent  adjacent  to  Garrock,  at  fomc  dit- 
tancc  from  each  other,  add  not  a  little  to  the  agreeable  va- 
riety. In  fome  places  they  form  deep  gulfs,  in  others  beau- 
tiful cafcades ;  now  they  are  feen  meandringamidft  corn-fields- 
or  pafturc  grounds,  then  they  run  under  t^^-o  ftone  arches ; 
and  afterwards,  dafhing  among  craigs  and  fragments  of  rock. 
Unite  their  ftreams  a  little  below  the  church.  Having  con- 
tributed to  diverlify  and  adorn  a  traft  of  fomc  miles,  they 
add  to  the  conveniences  of  life  by  fupplying  with  water  the 
only  corn  mill  within  the  parifh.  Down  the  ftream,  in  a  fe- 
queftered  retreat,  where  there  is  fcarcely  any  thing  to  be  feen 
but  the  firmament/  and  a  wide  espanCe  of  ocean,  there  is  a 
cave  of  fufficient  height  to  admit  a  man  in  an  crtCt  pofture. 
This  fubteraneous  abode  gradually  turns  lower  towards  the 
extremity,  and  feems  originally  to  have  been  formed  by  the 
dafhing  of  the  waves,  though  it  is  now  diftant  from  the  (hore 
a  full  quarter  of  a  mile,  and  more  than  i  %  feet  above  the 
prefent  bed  of  the  rivulet. 

Vitlagesy  Sea  Coajt^  Shfpwfech^  bfc.-^Thc  opening  of  the 
land  here  bears  a  (Irong  refemblance  to  a  creek  or  harbour, 
which  tends  to  miflead  fuch  as  are  unacquainted  with  the 
coad,^  whrch  is  flat  and  rocky.  A  fmall  village  of  1 5  houfes, 
built  upon  the  beach^  contributes  to  this  miftake,  and  while 
it  feems  to  promife  afTiftance  to  the  diftreifcd  mariner,  al- 
lures him  to  de(lru£lion.  Several  vefiels  have  fuffered  fliip* 
wreck  by  attempting  to  run  afliore  at  this  place  \  and  the  ut- 
moft  exertion  of  the  people  at  land  has  feldom  been  effec- 
tual to  refcuc  their  crews  frofn  the  fury  of  the  waves.  This 
place  is  called  the  Houghs  ofNetber  Benholmey  lies  almod  in 
a  dire£t  line  with  the  church,  and  is  nearly  fituated  in  the 
middle  between  the  fiihing  towns  of  Gurdon  and  Johnjbavtn ; 

one 


ofBtnhohne.  ^ig 

one  of  which  is  in  the  parifh  of  Bervic,  and  the  other  in  this 
parifh. 

Fi/h,  K^lp,  &c,-^The  co*ft  abounds  with  filh  of  various 
kinds..  Cod,  ling,  (katp,  halibut,  and  fome  turbet  are  caught 
from  March  to  the  end  of  July  :  Haddocks,  fmall  cod,  whit- 
ings, and  a  few  flounders,  are  taken  all  the  year  round,  but 
in  grcatcft  plenty  from  Oftober  to  the  middle  of  February. 
Crabs  and  lobfters,  limpets  and  periwinkels,  are  likewife 
in  abundance.  Numbers  of  porpoifes,  fpals,  and  fometimcs 
whales,  are  feen  clofe  upon  the  coaft.  The  rocks  produce 
dulce  and  tangles,  with  various  fea-weeds,  which  are  con- 
verted into  kelp.  What  quantity  of  this  article  may  be  an- 
nually exported  is  iincertaia.  It  cannot  be  inconMerable, 
however,  as  the  people  employed  in  making  it  are  able  to 
pay  a  yearly  rent  of  1 2I.  to  the  proprietors,  for  liberty  to 
crop  the  growth  of  their  rocks* 

C/iwia/^—r-The  climate  varies  confiderably  in  different 
parts  of  this  parifli,  according  to  the  expofure  and  height  of 
the  ground.  It  is  often  mild  and  temperate  upon  the  fhore, 
when  k  is  cold  and  piercing  in  the  more  inland  parts.  Dur- 
ing the  fpring  and  fummer  months,  thick  mifts  frequently  arife 
from  the  fca ;  fo  that  the  air  along  the  coaft  is  damp,  though 
not  unhealthy,  being  puri6ed  by  the  North  and  Weil  winds. 
Thefe  winds  are  both  fo  frequent  and  ftrong  here,  that 
young  trees  arc  generally  obfcrved  to  incline  towards  the  8.  E, 

SoU. — ^The  foil  upon  the  (hore  is  light  and  gravelly  :  in 
fome  places,  nothing  but  naked  ftones  appear  j  but  wheVe 
thcfe  have  been  covered  wijth  earth  brought  down  from  the 
higher  grounds,  either  by  human  induftry  or  the  winter 
rains,  good  crops  are  produced,  when  the  feafon  is  not  re- 
jnarkably  dry.  Farther  up,  the  foil  i$  deeper  and  mor«  fer- 
E  e  a  tile. 


^ze  Staiijliccd  Account 

tile.  A  few  farms  on  the  S.  W.  fide  of  the  parifli  arc  light 
and  gravelly.  Of  feme  tlic  foil  is  a  deep  rich  lonm  ;  but  ia 
the  middle,  and  on  the  N.  E.  fide,  it  chiefly  inclines  to  clay. 
Part  lies  on  a  cold  tilly  bottom,  and  part  on  irock  *,  but  having 
the  advantage  of  a  fouthern  cxpofure,  and  being  (heltered  by 
the  rifing  grounds  from  the  North,  it  produces  luxuriant 
crops,  when  properly  cultivated.  In  the  interior  parts  lies  a 
confiderabie  trac):  of  moor,  where  the  qualities  of  the  foil 
are  various.  Some  places^  are  wet  and  fpungy,  others  dry 
and  gravelly  5  but  the  greateft  part  is  capable  of  being  cukU 
vated. 

P/afrtaiictts.'r^Thc  number  of  acres  occupied  in  planting, 
both  of  moor  and  plcafure  grounds,  does  not  exceed  50.  1  he 
Scotch  fir  is  not  found  to  thrive  here  j  but  the  larch  and. 
other  foreft  trees  make  confiderabie  progrefs  in  dens,  and 
fuch  places  as  arc  flieltered  from  the  fea  air.  Clofe  upon 
the  coaft,  great  trouble  and  cxpence  is  neceflliry  to  raife  trees. 
They  require  ^o  be, planted  very  thick,  and  after  all  feldon; 
come  to  any  fizc, 

.  jigriculture*  and  Produce. — ^None  of  the  proprietors  of  this 
pari(h,  who  cultivate  their  own  grounds,  fl.ri£Hy  adhere  to 
any  particular  rotation  of  crops.  Nor  are  the  tenants  bound 
to  follow  what  their  niafters  do  not  praSife.     In  hufbandry, 

where 

•  In  fo  little  repute  was  farming  before  the  year  1 711,  that  the  proprie- 
tor of  Brotherfton  found  it  neccfl*ary  to  give  premiums  in  order  to  induce 
tenants  to  rent  his  farms.  To  one  be  gave  a  prefent  of  3C0  merks  Scotch, 
and  faim-flocklng  to  the  value  of  zooo^crks,  free  of  intcreft  foi  three  yeuts; 
to  another  the  fame  f um  in  a  prefent,  and  3000  merks  value  of  Aock  for  his 
|iarm,  free  of  intereft  for  4  years.  There  is  no  ncccfiiry  now  for  holding  out 
pecuniary  temptations  to  the  farmer.  Since  the  above  mentioned  period,  the 
rents  arc  tripled,  and  numbers  are  dill  ready  to  cffcr  a  confiderabie  idrziae^ 
fvljcti  thj?  Icafc  of  ^  farm  cxfircj. 


ofBenbolme.  azi 

where  much  depends  on  the  feafon,  it  is  perhaps  better  to 
kave  the  pradical  farmer  unfettered.  If  he  is  pofleflcd  of 
difccmmeot,  he  will  naturally  adopt  that  mode  of  cultivation, 
which,  on  a  foil  fimilar  to  his  own,  he  obfervcs  to  fucceed 
bcft  :  if  he  is  bound  to  follow  a  certain  rotation,  he  can  pio* 
fit  but  little  cither  by  his  own  or  his  neighbour's  experience. 
Some  reftriftions  towards  the  end  of  the  leafc,  to  prevent 
the  laud  from  being  over-cropped,  are  doubtlefs  neccflary, 
and  generally  made  by  every  proprietor,  when  he  lets  a  farm. 
The  general  praftice  of  tlie  farmers  in  this  parifti,  when  the 
foil  is  light,  is  to  fow  wheat  after  fallow  which  has  been 
limed  aiul  dunged  \  then  barley,  to  which  fucceeds  peafe ;  and 
then  barley  again,  with  clover  andgrafs  feeds,  which  are  al- 
lowed to  continue  in  the  ground  from  a  to  5  years.  Oats 
are  generally  fown,  when  the  Ity  or  fward  is  broken  up ; 
next  fucceeds  barley  and  then  fallow.  Where  the  foil  in- 
clines to  clay,  the  common  rotation  of  crops  ia  wheat,  beans, 
barley  and  grafs  feeds,  which  are  feldom  allowed  to  continue 
longer  in  the  ground  than  two  years  \  oats,  barley,  and  then  a 
fallow.  Befides  the  crops  already  mentioned,  a  confiderable 
quantity  of  turnips  is  annually  raifed  ;  but  very  little  flax, 
except  what  is  ncceiTary  for  the  ufe  of  private  families.  '^This 
may  be  owing  in  fome  meafure  to  the  want  of  lint<mill$  in 
the  neighbourhood,  or  more  probably  to  the  nature  of  the 
foil,  which  in  general  is  not  adapted  to  the  growth  of  this 
ufeful  plant.  Potatoes,  yams,  and  cabbages,  are  likewife 
planted  in  the  fields,  and  turn  to  good  account.  Some  at- 
tempts have  been  made  of  late  to  introduce  early  oats,  and 
it  is  to  be  hoped  their  utility,  in  a  foil  which  is  naturally  - 
late,  will  foon  recommend  them  to  general  ufe.  Seed  time 
and  harveft  greatly  depend  on  the  feafon  ;•  when  that  is  fa- 
vourable, they  begin  here  to  fow  in  March,  and  to  reap  a- 
l:oju.tthc  firft  of  September.    Wheat  is  generally  fown  in 

Oaober. 


122  StatiJlicaJ  Acvotint 

Odober.  A  greater  quantity  of  every  fort  of  grain  is  raifed 
within  this  parifli  than  is  neccflary  for  its  fupport.  The  prin- 
cipal extraneous  manure  made  ufe  of  here  is  lime,  which  is 
chiefly  brought  by  land  carriage,  from  a  quarry  in  the  parifli 
of  St  Cyrus,  not  two  miles  diftant.  Many  farmers,  however, 
find  their  account  in  importing  it  from  the  Frith  of  Forth, 
and  even  from  Sunderland.  All  agree  that  it  is  an  eflentiat 
tequifite  in  farming.  Forty  bolls  have  commonly  been  al- 
loted  to  an  acre ;  but  many  begin  to  think  that  a  much  great- 
er proportion  is  neceffary  for  ftrong  land. 

Ploughs^  Caitley  &*a — There  are  from  36  to  40  ploughs 
in  this  parifli.  About  6  of  thefe  are  drawn  by  oxen,  which 
are  chiefly  made  ufe  of  where  the  land  is  rugged.  When 
it  is  in  an  improved  fl:ate,  horfes  are  eniployed,  and  2  arc 
thought  fufficient  for  a  plough.  The  Scotch  plough  is  gene- 
rally ufed  here,  and  fecms  beft  adapted  to  the  nature  of  the 
foil ;  though  fcveral  Norfolk  wheel-ploughs  are  employed 
with  advantage  on  fuch  farms  as  are  free  from  ftoncs,  and  m 
%  high  ftate  of  cultivation.  Confiderable  attention  is  bcftow- 
«d  oil  rearing,  but  very  little  on  feeding  black-cattle,  though 
the  demand  for  butcher  meat  daily  increafes.  Nor  has  this 
inducement  hitherto  prevailed  on  the  farmer  to  feed  more 
(hcep  than  is  ncccflTary  for  the  ufe  of  his  own  family* 

Rents y  Inclofuresy  Leafes^  ^r.— -By  a  furvey  of  the  county, 
taken  in  1774,  this  parifli  contains  4721  Englifli  acres,  of 
which  nearly  a  fifth  part  is  uncultivated.  The  reft  is  divid- 
ed into  20  farms.  Twelve  of  thcfc  yield  from  50I.  to  210I. 
the  other  8  from  20I.  to  50I.  Sterling  of  yearly  rent.  The 
heft  arable  land  -is  let  at  from  il.  to  il.  175.  an  acre  :  And, 
when  it  is  divided  into  fmall  portions,  from  2I.  to  2I.  6s. 
Land  of  an  inferior  quality  is  npt  let  by  the  acre,  but  by  tlie 

piece, 


of  Benbolnu.    .  223 

piece,  as  parties  can  agree.  There  may  be  about  4-or  5  fmall 
farms  let  in  this  way,  the  yearly  rent  arifing  from  each  of 
vhich  will  not  amount  to  2oi.  Sterling.  Several  farms  are 
inclofed,  but  a  greater  number  ftill  lie  open-  In  this  rcfpe£l 
there  is  great  room  for  improvement  here.  The  farmers,  in- 
deed, are  not  infenfible  to  the  advantages  of  inclofing,  but 
it  is  fcarcely  to  be  expefted  that  they  will  lay  out  the  necef- 
fary  expence  to  make  inclofurcs,  on  fo  (hort  a  leafe  as  19 
years.  Unlefs  proprietors  hold  out  fome  inducement,  either 
by  incrcafing  the  length  of  their  leafes,  or  advancing  the  ne- 
ceflary  fums  at  a  moderate  iatercft,  it  is  to  be  feared  that 
many  of  tlie  fields  will  continue  long  in  their  prefent  naked 
and  expofcd  (late.  The  valued  rent  of  the  pariQi  amounts 
to  about  3980I.  9s.  8d.  The  real  rent  may  be  about  iSooI. 
Sterling. 

Eccleftaftlcal  State. — Tlie  patronage  of  the  church  was, 
fome  time  after  the  beginning  of  laft  century,  vefted  in  the 
proprietors  of  the  eftates  of  Benholme,  Brotherfton,  and  Ne- 
ther Benholme,  who  continue  to  exercife  their  right  by 
turns  *.  Two  of  thefe  gentlemen  conftantly  refide  in  the 
pariih,  and  a  third,  occafionaliy.  The  church,  which  Hands 
nearly  in  the  centre,  and  mod  agreeable  part  of  the  pariih,  is 
an  old  irregular  Gothic  buildings     On  the  Eaft  end,  a  part  is 

raifed 

*  About  the  beginning  of  the  laft  century,  ttkc  greateft  part  of  the  pro* 
pcrty  within  thU  diftrid  belonged  to  Earl  MariscuaL)  whofe  ancient  dotnl* 
nioni  in  thefe  parts,  can  now  only  be  traced  from  records  and  monumental  in- 
fcriptions.  Not  long  after  that  period,  all  this  pariih,  except  BaLanjdro^ 
formed  the  eftate  of  Benholme,  and  belonged  to  a  proprietor  of  the  name  «f 
Kbith,  who  was  probably  a  younger  branch,  or  near  relation  ef  the  Marif- 
chal  Family.  It  was  afterwards  divided  among  his  heirs  into  four  portion^ 
which  now  compofe  different  eitates  of  Benholme,  Brotherfton,  Nether«Bea- 
holme,  and  Knox.  * 


2 14  Statijiical  Account 

raifcd  higher  than  the  reft,  which  formerly  ferved  for  the 
choir,  and  dill  retains  the  name,  though  it  has  been  long 
ufcd  as  a  burying  place.  The  remains  of  a  font  are  ftill  to 
be  feeh  at  one  of  the  church  doors,  and  other  relics  of  fuper- 
ftition,  which  evidently  Ihow  that  the  whole  has  been  built 
before  the  Reformation.  The  manfe  was  biiiit  about  58 
years  ago,  and  repaired  in  1791.  The  living  confills  of  128 
bolls  of  bear  and  oat-meal,  in  equal  portions;  301.* in  mo- 
ney, and  a  glebe  of  6  acres.  It  is  difficult  to  fay  what  the 
original  number  of  Seceders  in  this  parifli  was ;  but  they 
now  amount  to  about  100  || .  ITie  other  diflenters  belong- 
ing to  the  parifli,  are,  I2  Epifcopalians,  2  Bereans,  and  i  Ro- 
man Catholic. 

School. — ^The  fchool  is  near  to  the  church,  and  well  attend* 
cd.  Reading,  \vriting,  arithmetic,  Latin,  book-keeping, 
and  navigation,  are  all  taught  by  the  fame  mafter,  whofe  c- 
moluments  are  as  follow  : 

Yearly 

II  All  the  Inhabitants  of  this  parifli,  ctcept  a  few,  who  continued  their 
attachment  to  the  Epifcopal  religion,  were  regular  attendants  on  public  wor* 
ihip,  38  c{bblinied  in  the  Church  of  Scotland,  till  abont  the  year  1763.  At 
that  time,  the  minifter's  anxiety  to  improve  the  church^mufic,  led  him  to 
tdopt  the  more  approved  method  of  ilnging  without  intermiOion,  or  reading 
the  line,  as  it  is  called.  This  gave  umbrage  to  many,  who  bad  been  accuftoip* 
ed  to  hear  every  line  feparately  given  out  by  the  precentor  or  ckrk,  before 
the  congregation  joined  in  the  pfalm.  They  were  forced  to  acknowledge 
that  the  pfalm«dy  would  be  improved  by  (inging  without  interruption  ;  but 
they  urged,  that  many  who  could  wrt  reaJ,  would,  by  that  means,  be  entirely 
excluded  from  joining  in  this  part  of  public  wor(hip.  Whether  a  regard  to 
the  ^Aod  of  others,  was  the  realf  or  only  the  tftenfihU  caufe  of  this  oppofition  ; 
or  whether  it  proceeded  from  a  dread  of  inna^aticn,  ihey  perfuled  in  it.  They 
remonfiratcd  again  and  again  ;  add  when  their  remonftrances  were  not  at- 
tended to,  abapdoiied  the  church,  built  one  for  themfelves  in  John{haven,/D4 
invited  a  minifler  of  the  Secelfion  to  fettle  among  them. 


ofBenbolmt*  I25 


tcatl^  falary,'                                     L.    6 

18 

loi 

JDonation  for  teaching  poor  fcholars^            i 

5 

0 

Seffion-clerk-fee,                    -                     2 

0 

0 

Pcrquifites  for  tegiftering  marriages 

and  births,  at  an  average  of  10  years,           3 

3 

0 

Quarterly  payments,  &g.            -              1 2 

0 

.0 

Amounting  altogether  to        35      6    10^ 

*f  wo  occalional  fchools,  one  for  bo^s,  and  another  for  girls> 
are  kept  in  Johnfliaven.  The  number  of  fcholars  attending 
each  may  be  from  20  to  30. 

P^r.— The  number  of  poor  m  this  pariflb  is  cbnfiderable, 
owing  to  the  variety  of  aged  and  infirm  perfons,  who  come 
from  neighbouring  parifhes,  and*  take  up  their  refidence  in 
the  town  of  Johnfliaven,  when  they  are  no  longer  fit  for 
country  work.  Seldom  fewer  than  30  recfeivfe  a  monthly  al- 
lowance from  2s.  to  4s.  and  fometimes  5s.  each,  according 
to  their  heceflSties.  Small  fums  ate  likewife  occafionally  dif- 
tributed  among  fuch  as  are  in  ftraitened  circumftartces,  yet 
not  fo  indigent  as  to  require  a  regular  fupply.  It  is  general- 
ly underftood,  that  the  members  of  the  Sei&on  have  a  claim 
on  whatever  efFefts  may  be  left  by  any  one,  who  has  been 
admitted  oh  the  poors-roll,  to  the  full  amount  of  the  fum  ad- 
vanced ;  fo  that  few  folicit  this  afliftance,  except  thofe  who 
^e  really  iii  want.  The  means  of  relieving  fuch,  are  derived 
ifrom  various  foUrces,  of  which  the  chief  arc,  the  collcftions 
in  the  church  on  Sundays,  which  laft  year  exceeded  35I. 
Sterling ;  the  intereft  of  different  fums,  bequeathed  for  the 
iife  of  the  poor,  in  the  lands  of  fienholme  and  Knox  %  the 
faviogs  of  former  contributions  \  with  better  than  8L  annu- 
ally for  feat-rents,  amotmting  altogether  to  more  than  ($oI. 
iSterling.  The  diftribution  of  this  fura  falls  within  the  pro-^ 
Vol.  iv.  F  f  tiflc« 


226  Statijiical  jiccount 

vincc  of  the  minifter  and  ciders,  who  make  it' their  bufinefs 
to  become  acquainted  with  the  fituation  of  the  pariftiioners, 
to  fupply  fuch  as  are  in  want,  and  to  difcountenance  beg- 
ging. Few  beggars  of  courfe  belong  to  this  parilh  \  but  it 
is  much  infsfted  by  vagrants,  efpecially  from  the  North. 
Befides  the  other  charitable  donations,  under  the  manage- 
ment of  the  kirk-feflion,  there  is  a  fund  for  teaching  poor 
fcholars,  and  fupplying  them  with  books.  An  annual  col- 
ledlion  is  like  wife  made  at  the  church  doors»  for  the  Infir-^ 
mary  of  Aberdeen,  which  entitles  the  poor  to  medical  ad- 
vice and  afliftance,  when  they  labour  under  any  bodily  diC- 
trcfs,  and  likewife  to  proper  accomodation,  while  their  cure 
is  performing.  In  few  places,  perhaps,  are  the  induflrious 
and  deferving  poor  better  provided  for  than  here.  Befidcs 
the  fources  of  affiftance  already  enumerated,  they  find  a  con- 
tinual fupply  in  the  charitable  diffiofition  of  their  more  opu- 
lent neighbours. 

Population, — ^The  population  within  this  parifli,  during 
the  lad  40  years,  has  been  fluftuating.  The  total  number 
of  inhabitants,  was 

In  to*  Country,  In  tb«  Tinon,          ^otai.                            Difference, 

In     1753,             598  75Z                  135I 

In     I755>  1367  Incrcafc  in  2  years      16 

In    1 773 1  1715  Ditto  in  18  years      348 

Total  in  ao  years    364 
In    1793.  538  1019  1557  Dccrcafclaftaoycarsyg 

I       Decrcafc    60  locreafe     266        Total  increafc  in  40  years  ao6 

But  as  the  ordlnp.ry  cftimate  in  the  Statiftical  Account  is  only  made  from 
Dr  W-ebilcr's  report,  the  incrcaAi  between  1753  and  175J,  muft  be 
dcduded  -  •  15 

"Which  makes  the  exafft  incrcafc  within  38  years        190 

From 


ofBenholme. 


227 


From  the  above  ftatcmcnt  it  appears,  that  though  the  num- 
bers in  the  country  part  is  diminifhed  60,  yet  the  town  of 
Johnfliaven  being  266  more  numerous  than  it  was  in  1753, 
the  population  has  increafed  on  the  whole  206  (ince  that  pe- 
riod. It  IS  evident,  however,  from  the  following  table,  that 
the  population  has  been  gradually  diminlfliing  Cnce  the  yfar 
1773.  ^^  union  of  feveral  fmall  farms  into  one  has  con- 
tributed to  thin  the  country,  and  increafe  the  number  of 
town's  people.  But  while  one  clafs  of  inhabitans  was  be- 
coming more  numerous  in  Johnfliaven,  various  caufes  con- 
fpired  to  difperfe  another.  It  appears,  from  undoubted  au- 
thority, that  the  fea- faring  people,  with  their  families,  in  that 
town,  about  the  year  I7S3»  were  equal  to  a  third  of  the 
whole  inhabitants  of  the  parilh  5  but  in  1793,  they  did  not 
exceed  a-Cxth  part'  of  that  number  •,  fo  that  this  clafs  of  inr 
habitants  has  been  rapidly  declining  for  the  lad  40  years. 

Table  of  Population  in  the  Parish  of  Benholme, 
colleEled  from  private  Bills  of  Mortality y  kept  by  the  laU  Revi-- 
rend  Mr  Robert  Young. 


Years.  No.  of  Souu.  Marriages. 


1753 

^75S 
1:56 
1757 
1738 
1759 
1760 
3761 
176a 


135* 
1382 
X367 

1414 
1491 
1494 


9 

8 

II 

10 

5 
10 

9 
10 

8 
iz 


Ff2 


Births. 

Deaths. 

.    A 

A. 

Mai.  Fern 

rot. 

MaL  Fern,  Tot, 

19       21 

41 

.    .     j8 

21     35> 

28       18 

46 

.    .    %i 

16     37 

29       26 

55 

.    .      6 

16     22 

31       30 

61 

.    .    19 

18    37 

29       13 

42 

.    .     II 

15     26 

27       26 

5i 

.      .      21 

31    5% 

19       22 

41 

.      .        9 

14    »3 

3a       a2 

.'4 

.      .       13 

13    ^6 

27       17 

44 

.      .      18. 

19    37 

15       32 

47 

.    .    27 

29    56 

Statxstic^i^ 

«8 


Statijiical  Account^ 


Statistical  Table  of  Benholme  continue  p. 


Births. 

DrATBS. 

^0.  of  .*>ooti.  Markiagei 

A  _ 

Years.  ^ 

k   MmL  Ffm. 

Toi. 

Mai.  Fern,  Tot. 

1763   . 

M99  ,  • 

.  15  .  . 

.  16 

ai 

47 

.  .  29  29  58 

1764 

.    ^sn 

.  II  .  . 

.  43 

18 

41 

6  12  18 

1^5   . 

*543   . 

.  19  .  . 

•  37 

a4 

61 

.   •   II   II   22 

3766 

1575   • 

.  H  .  . 

•  19 

13 

4» 

.  .  II   7-  18 

3767   . 

1613   . 

.   JO  . 

•  -  *4 

17 

51 

•  .  19  15  34 

1768   . 

1667  '  . 

.  13  • 

•  24 

21 

46 

.   .   19   22  5f 

1769   . 

1659   . 

.  10  .  . 

.  t8 

^3 

51 

.  .  »4  35  59 

3770 

.  i6?5   . 

•  II  . 

.  .  31 

26 

57 

•  •  '5  15  30 

X771 

.   1713 

.  li  . 

.  .  as 

II 

33. 

.  .  a»  15  37 

J  77*  . 

1666   . 

.  15  .  . 

.  30 

26 

56 

.  .  25  24  49 

1773 

1715   • 

.  10  . 

.   .   26 

19 

45 

.  .  29  21  50 

J  774 

1676   . 

.  14  . 

'   •   V 

21 

38 

.  .  I(J  14  30 

>775 

1638   . 

.   7  . 

.  43 

3^ 

^* 

.  .  14  18  3* 

1776 

1657   . 

.  17  .  . 

.  »4 

16 

40 

.  .  22  28  50 

1777 

.  X668  , 

.  10  •  . 

•  31 

45 

56 

.  .   15   18  33 

M778 

.  14  . 

•  »5 

21 

46 

..  21   20  41 

'17.79   - 

.  .  14  .  . 

•  •  ^3 

39 

61 

.  .  19  14  33 

1780 

.  15  .  . 

.  21 

*3 

44 

.   ,   20  28   48 

1781 

« 

.  .  15  .  . 

.  ^6 

28 

54 

.  .  10  13  43 

Z78Z 

.   .  18  .  , 

.    a6 

»3 

49 

.  .  19   17  36 

3'783 

.  8  . 

.  .  to 

iZ 

38 

.   .   19  22  41 

1784 

.  .  15  . 

•  •  30 

3* 

62 

.   .   32  29   61 

1785 

.  .  7  . 

.  18 

»3 

41 

.   .   21   21   44 

3786 

.  .   9  . 

.  .  »i 

19 

4X 

.   .  21   25  47 

1787 

r    .  13   .   . 

•  ^*' 

26 

47 

•  .  14  43  3S 

Statistical, 

I  Tbi  nitmher'rf  fouh  from  tbt  year  If  1%  to.  the  year  1789  caiuttt  be  fwmd 
anfoig  the  bilk  of  mortality.    Jn  tbefi  years  died 


Between  tbe  age  of  70  and%o 

>  ■■    I    .  —  —   80  and  90 

— — — — •  90  aad  100 


Mai. 

43 

18 

6 


Jfi  1777)  tbe  numhtr  of^idowe  in  tbe  farijb  amounted  to  94 
ti  1793)  ^be  number  ofvfidowt  were  -  44 


■  Fern, 
26 

15 
o 


Total 
49 
33 


of  Widowers  49 
of  widowers  18 


of  Benholme. 


^^% 


Statistical  TAstE  of  Benholme  continued. 


Years.   No.  of  Souls. 

89 
90 

9» 


9Z 


1573 

1560 

Ii59 
?557 


Markiagei 
.     8 

•     7 
.    x% 

.   zo    , 
.    18 
.    14    . 


Births. 
Mai.  Fcm.  Tot. 

14  a»  36 

26  31  57 

ao  19  39 

%i  19  4» 

19  44  43 

24  19  43 


DSATBIL 

MaL  Ftm.  TVf, 
.     19     21     4« 
,    «3    oo    43   ■ 

18  «5    43 

19  x8    37 

23    ^S    4? 
x8     IX    29 


List  of  Diseases,  ofidoftteNuuufiVL  0/ People  who  died  un^' 
der  eachy  from  1 778  to  1788,  inclufive  :  Drawn  up  by  the 
kit  Reverend  Mr  Ropert  Tounq  Mintfter  of  Benholme. 


1 1 

•f 

} 

1 

1 

1 

^1 

•^ 

1 

i 

1 

1778  Ij  5 

0 

5 

X 

0. 

6  0 

% 

I 

3 

0 

79   7 

P 

0 

% 

3 

a  % 

0 

0 

X 

0 

80   6 

0 

% 

I 

0 

4  13 

Q 

0 

I 

0 

8i  % 

0 

.  0 

10 

3 

0 

0  0 

0 

% 

0 

% 

8»   6 

% 

0 

5 

5  0 

0 

0 

a 

I 

83-  4 

0 

0 

10 

1 

3   Q 

0 

0 

4 

a 

84   4 

0 

0 

I 

4  «4 

0 

I 

3 

X 

85   10 

0 

I 

a 

a   0 

0 

a 

3 

X 

86   7 

0 

7 

I 

3  0 

6 

I 

4 

0 

87   4 

3 

X 

3 

3  4 

0 

p 

3 

• 

88   5 

0 

5 

8 

3  • 

0 

0 

0 

— p 

I 

^o     '    5      ax       77        a9     xi    36  43       8      7     ft4t  8 

g  ^r0a»  X789,  the  biriht  and  dtaths  of  thofe  Menging  to  the  Seeeffion  are  omtt" 
ted,  Wbetber  they  havt  hew  wferted  in  the  previous  ytarsy  it  uHterttum ;  though  «# 
w  highly  probaUey  from  Mr  YoDNc's  aceuraty^  thai  they  vfouU, 

f  Of  the  2^  under  safualties,  6  were  drowned*  %  fijoeated^  X  hUled  in  haitit^ 
1  hy  a  fall  from  a  horfe^  \  by  a  bite  of  a  mad  dog,  and  X  byfaUing  into  thefre, 
Jn  the  bills  are  ftteral  other  diftttfet^wbicb  art  omitted  on  account  oftbefmaU  n 
her  that  died  of  them. 


130  Statijlical  Account 

Fijhery, — About  the  year  1722,  Johnshaven  fe^ms  to 
have  ranked  among  the  firft  fitlung  towns  in  Scotland  ;  26 
boats  were  then  employed  in  the  fifhery,  13  of  which  car- 
ried each  from  8  to  10  tons  burden,  the  other  13,  from  5  to 
6  tons,  A  large  boat's  crew,  including  one  or  two  boys,  ge- 
nerally confided  of  10,  a  ftnall  boat's,  8.  Three  of  the  crew 
'vi'crc  called  JkipperSy  who  had  a  (hare  in  the  boat,  kept  her  in 
repair,  and  became  bound  to  indemnify  the  proprietor  of  the 
town  for  the  fum  of  i  co  f  merles  Scotch,  which  he  advanced 
to  aflilt  in  building  the  boat  \  and  alfo  to  pay  a  yearly  rent  of  2L 
I  OS.  Sterling.  To  defray  this  expence,  the  (kippers  were  en- 
titled to  every  fifth  filh  taken,  befides  their  own  deal  or  fhaie. 
Large  boats  were  employed  from  the  beginning  of  May  till 
the  firll  of  Auguft,  in  catching  cod,  ling,  &c.  or  in  what  is 
called  the  out  fva  Ji/Jjirrgi  from  the  fifhing  ground  lying  at  the 
diftanc.e  of  40  or  50  milts,  from  fhore.  In  favourable  wea- 
ther, they  generally  continued  one,  two,  or  three  nights  at 
fea.  During  the  months  of  Auguft  and  September,  they 
brought  a  fufficient  quantity  of  coiils  and  peats  from  the 
Trith  of  Forth  to  fuppiy  the  neighbourhood  through  the 
feafon:  afitr  which  theio  Urge  boats  vere  laid  up  for  win- 
ter. The  fmalJ  boats  were  then  employed  in  catching  had- 
docks,* whitings,  Sec  till  the  end  of  February,  when  the 
ticar  gyeiitjlpjlngy  about  8  or  10  miles  from  land,  commen- 
ced. In  this  they  were  engaged,  always  leaving  their  lines 
at  fea  one  night  or  mere,  according  to  the  weather,,  till  the 
b(.*ginning  of  May,  when  the  large  boats  were  again  launch- 
ed into  the  deep.  The  great  ftfli  were  purchafed  by  Mon- 
trofe  merchants,  faked  and  fent  up  the  Mediterranean.   The 

fmall 

\  This  money  only  became  payable  when  the  boat  was  00  longer  fit  t^ 
go  to  I^ja. 


o/Benbolme*  231 

fmall  fiOi  found  a  ready  market  in  the  Frith  of  Forth,,  and 
the  price  of  them  formed  a  ftock  for  the  filhers  to  trade  with 
in  Autumn. 

Cat/fes  of  its  Decline. — In  this  manner  was  the  fifliing  fuc- 
celifully  carried  on  till  the  year  1743,  when  two  of  the  boats 
foundered  at  fea.  This  was  a  fevere  ftroke,  and  followed 
by  another,  a  few  years  after,  equally  deftruftivc  to  the  fifh- 
ing,  though  not  fo  fatal  to  the  crews.  As  the  boats  were 
returning  from  the  (ea  in  1756,  a  tender  intercepted  3  of 
them,  and  impreffed  the  ftouteft  of  their  men.  A  demand 
from  government  of  cvcxyji/th  man  to  ferve  on  board  the 
fleet  foon  followed.  The  filhers  were  obliged  to  comply  with 
the  neceffuy  of  the  times,  by  cither  going  themfelves,  or 
bribing  others  in  their  (lead  :  and  thus  purchafcd  proteftions 
for  thofe  who  remained,  at  a  great  cxpence.  Reduced  in 
*mea  and  money,  they  were,  unable,  by  the  end  of  the  war  ia 
1763,  to  fit  out  more  than  8  large  boats,  and  as  many  fmall. 
In  1768,  they  were  harraflcd  by  Prefs-gatigSg  and  forced  to 
raife  a  new  levy,  at  the  rate  of  lol.  or  12I.  a  man.  Diftrcf- 
fcd  with  fo  many  demands,  and  deprived  of  the  means  of 
fupplying  them,  many  (lout  young  men  abandoned  the  fiih- 
ing,  and  bound  themfelves  apprentices  to  colliers,  in  order 
to  avoid  ferving  on  board  the  navy  j — a  fervice,  from  which 
the  impolitic,  though  fomc times  necefi'ary,  meafure  of  i//j- 
prejfmg  is  calculated  to  create  averfion.  The  boats  were  now 
poorly  mann'd,  and  unable  to  go  to  La,  unlcfs  in  very  fa- 
vourable weather.  Through  the  poverty  of  their  owners^ 
they  fell  to  pieces,  one  after  another,  till  the  year  1776, 
when  they  were  reduced  to  5.  The  commencement  of  a 
new  war  created  a  new  demand  for  men.  Tenders  and 
prcfs-gangs  pcrfjcuted  them  at  fea  and  fliorc,  and  prevented 
them  from  earning  bread  to  their  families.  It  therefore  be- 
came 


Ti^t  Statijlicai  Account 

came  necefiary  to  (train  the  laft  nerve,  which  masiy  of  theni 
did,  by  raifing  the  enormous  contribution  of  i$l.  for  every 
man  who  was  demanded,,  in  order  to  procure  pr6te£lions  for 
the  reft.  But  now,  by  an  unwarrantable  breach  of  good 
faith,  protefiions  fcrvcd  only  as  a  pa/sport  to  the  Navy*,  One 
of  the  boat-mafters  was  imprefled  with  his  prote£tion  in  his 
pocket,  and  died  on  board  the  Salijbury  (hip  of  war  going 
but  to  the  Weft  Indies.  The  exa£lions  made  on  the  fifliers, 
during  laft  war,  gave  a  decifive  blow  to  the  fiftiety  at  Johns- 
haven;  and  deprived  the  nation  of  a  valuable  nurfery 
for  hardy  feamen.  It  is  now  reduced  to  one  large  boat  in 
fummcr,  and  4  or  5  yawls  in  winter,  whofe  drews  confift  of 
old  men  and  boys,  fcarce  fit  to  manage  an  oar.  Thus  do  the 
unjuftifiable  means,  which  are  had  recourfe  to  for  the  tem- 
porary fapport  of  any  ftate,  frequently  tend  to  its  final  de- 
ftruftion.  Had  greater  moderation  been  ufci  in  demanding 
levies  from  Johnfhaven,  during  former  wars,  it  might  ftill 
have  retained  its  rarik  among  fifhing  towns,  and  been  able, 
on  the  prefent  emergency,  to  contribute  to  the  general  fup-^ 
port  of  the  nation. 

Another  caUfe  concurred  in  depopulating  the  fea-faring 
part  of  the  toWri,  though  tlie  ruin  of  the  fi(hery  can  only  be 
afcribed  to  the  hardfhips  impofed  on  the  fifhers  by  levying 
and  impreffing  them.  Many  no  doubt  returned  from  the 
wars  richer  than  when  they  went  away;  but,  after  being 
accuftomed  to  a  navy  life,  they  returned  with  ideas  above 
lifhing,  as  may  be  fuppofed,  when  the  cafe  of  handing  a  fail 
fs  compared  with  the  labour  of  tugging  at  the  oar.  The 
prize  money  and  wages  many  of  them  had  gained,  ferved  to 
purchafe  fmall  veflels,  which  they  employed  in  the  coafting 
trade  *,  and  their  habits  of  ihduftry,  acquired  in  early  life,  by 
degrees  raifed  them  to  larger.  But  the  harbour  of  Johns* 
haven  being  i^nfafe  for  vcfiels  of  any  confiderable  buitben  in 

Irintcr 


ofBenbolme.  23  j 

winter^  it  \)ccame  ncceflary  for  them  to  quit  their  native 
place,  where  their  property  could  not  be  protefted,  and  to 
take  up  their  refidence  "where  (hips  might  be  fecure  in  all 
feafons.  Owing  to  this  caufe,  15  mafters  of  veflels  from  ^o 
to  150  tons  burden,  with  their  families,  have  removed  to 
Montrofe  fince  the  year  1 766.  An  equal  number  of  veflels; 
about  the  fame  burthen,  fttU  belong  to  Johnfhaven,  whidi 
cannot  be  brought  there  with  fafety  during  winter.  The 
mafters  of  tfaefe  have  hitherto  ftruggled  with  the  inconve- 
nience of  having  their  families  in  one  place,  and  their .  pro* 
perty  in  another j  nearly  one  half  of  the  year  \  but  it  is  more 
than  probable,  that  they  will  follow  the  example  of  their 
neighbours,  unlefs  fome  material  improvement  is  made  upoti 
the  harbour. 

'  Pier  and  Pr^fed  Improvement, — A  fmall  pier  or  wharf  has 
been  ereded  of  late,  by  means  of  which  veflels  may  load  and 
unload,  at  any  time  of  the  tide,  in  favourable  weather ;  but 
till  a  bulwark  is  raifed  to  break  the  force  of  the  (ea,  it  never 
can  become  a  place  of  fafety ;  and  any  thing  (hort  of  that  can 
add  little  to  the  profperity  of  the  town.  The  expence  nece(r 
fary  for  this  purppfe,  according  to  ah  eftimate  made  by  an 
archite£^,  who  viewed  the  ground  in  1754,  would  not  ex- 
teed  900  L  Nature  has  indeed  laid  die  foundation,  and  like- 
wife  furnifiied  the  materials  for  building  a  prbper  hatbour: 
On  the  eaft  fide^  a  ledge  of  free  ftone  rocks,  about  30  yards 
broad,  reaches  from  high  water,  at  neap  tide,  to  low  water' at 
fpring  tide,  which  are  feldom  Overflowed  except  in  feVere 
ftorms.  On  the  Weft  fide,  a  number  of  flat  rocks  run  out 
from  the  beach  S.  S.  W.  into  the  open  fea,  clofe  by  the  fide 
of  which  there  is  6  or  8  fathom  water.  The  South  end  ot 
thefe  is  covered  by  half  tide,  when  fmall  veflfels  tnay  entier 
the  harbour,  though  they  cannot,  until  near  full  fea^  reach  th^* 
Vol-  XV;  C  g  prefent 


234  Statijlical  Account 

prcfcnt  warf.  In  ordinary  tides  the  depth  of  the  harbour  is 
from  lo  to  12  feet,  which  might  be  farther  incrcafed  at  no 
great  expcnce,  as  the  bottom  is  a  foft  marly  rock. 

Probable  Advantages* — ^Werc  the  advantages  arifing  from  a 
fafe  harbour  at  John&haven  confined  to  the  town  or  even 
nctghbourfiood,  they  might  be  thought  fcarcely  equivalent  to 
the  expence  neceflary  to  procure  them  :  But  when  it  is  confi- 
dered  that  a  great  part,  one  half  at  lead;  of  the  county,  would 
profit  grcsitly  by  this  improvement,  the  expence  *muft  appear 
inconfiderable.  If  the  utility  of  the  defign  were  attended  to, 
it  is  highly  probable  that  the  time  of  its  execution  might  not 
be  very  diftant.  Many  obftacles,  which  have  hitherto  pre- 
vented manufaflures  from  flouri(hing  in  this  part  of  the 
county,  would  then  be  removed ;  and  the  expence  of  land 
c^trriage,  which  is  more  or  Icfs  a  draw  back  upon  every  branch 
of  trade,  would  be  greatly  dimini(hed.  To  vefTels  employed 
ia  the  coafting  trade  it  wOuld  prove  of  the  utmoft  confe^ 
qaence,  ^s  they  might  find  an  eafy  and  fafe  retreat  here  from 
the  ftorm,  in  certain  winds,  when  it  would  be  deflru£)ion 
for  them  to  attempt  landing  on  any  other  part  of  the  coaft, 
betwixt  the  Frith  of  Forth  and  the  Murray  Frith. 

Trade  and  Commerce. — ^The  trade  here  chiefly  confifts  in 
importing  coals  and  exporting  grain.  A  fufficient  quantity 
of  the  former  article  is  brought  in  fummer  from  Sunderland, 
and  the  Frith  of  Forth,  to  fupply  the  town  and  neighbour- 
hood'  through  the  year.  Some  cargoes  of  lime  ate  alfo 
.  brought  from  the  fame  places,  for  theufe  of  the  farmer.  Till 
of  late,  Montrofe  was  the  only  market  for  grain  in  this  neigh- 
bourhood, when  two  merchants  in  Johnshaven  were  tempt- 
ed, by  the  fituation  of  the  place,  to  commence  dealers  in 

graiii 


ef  Benbolme.  233 

grain.  The  adventure  has  not  only  proved  advantageous  to 
themfelves,  but  highly  beneficial  to  the  neighbourhood.  The 
farmer  being  enabled  to  deliver  his  grain, in  lefs  than  one  half 
the  time  which  was  formerly  required,  has  it  more  in  his 
po^er  to  embrace  a  favourable  feafon  when  it  offers.  This 
-  is  of  the  utmoft  moment  here,  where  the  nature  of  the  foil, 
in  many  places  is  fuch,  that  it  can  only  be  plowed  to  ad- 
vantage between  wet  and  dry.  The  fliort  carriage,  therefore, 
gives  them  a  decided  preference  above  other  merchants,  who 
live  at. a  greater  diflance,  fo  that  they  purchafe  mod  of  the 
barley  produced  for  many  miles  around,  which  they  either 
convert  into  malt,  for  the  Norway  market,  or  feqd  to  the 
Frith  of  Forth.  From  3000  to  400Q  bolls  of  grain  are  an- 
nually exported 

ManufaBures. — A  manufafture  of  fail  cloth  has  of  late 
been  eftabliflied  in  the  town  of  Johnshaven,  by  a  Company 
of  Dundee  merchants.  This  affords  employment  at  times  to 
about  5®  men^  befides  a  number  of  women.  To  form  a  fair 
opinion  of  any  undertaking  in  its  infancy  is  difHcult,  but 
were  the  harbour  improved,  there  is  every  probability  that 
this  would  fucceed,  as  it  would  then  labour  under  no  loCal 
difadvantage. 

Table  ^Tradesmen,  Mechanics,  &c.  luithin  the  Parijb, 

Merchants,  -  a    Inn. keepers  in  the  town,  4 


Surgeon, 
School-mafters, 
Shore,  mafter, 
BzciTe-officcr, 
Tide-waiter,                   ; 

Ditto  in  the  country. 

Smiths, 

Mafons, 

Ship- carpenters, 

Houfe  ditto. 

1 
S 

i              3 
10 

Shop-keepers  § ,           ; 

?8 

Cabinet  maker, 

;             I 

Wheel. 

§  Moil  of  thefe  give  out  flax  to  be  fpun. 


2^6  Statijlical  Mcount 


IMHiecUwrighU, 

• 

%    Malt-men,              1              : 

4 

Weavcn, 

• 

63    Barbers, 

% 

Stocking  ditto* 

: 

I     Male  domeftic  fenrants        : 

3 

Shoe-makers. 

• 

1%    Female  ditto. 

00 

Tailors, 

• 

14    Male  farm  (ervants. 

56 

Butchert, 

• 

4    Female  ditto. 

%l 

Millers, 

• 

%,  Farms  above  50L 

10 

Bakers, 

. 

3  <«^  Ditto  under  thmt  rent,        : 

U 

Gardeners,           • 

• 

4    Overfeers, 

% 

Slatem, 

• 

%    Country  day-labourers,          • 

43 

Flazdreffen,           • 

i 

5    Shjp-maucrs,               •         • 

»5 

Chapman, 

• 

5     Seamen  and  boys, 

40 

parriers, 

• 

4    Two-wheel  carts. 

48 

Penny  poft  between  Bervie  and 

Draught  horfes, 

96 

Johnfliaven, 

• 

I    Foi4r-wheel  carriages 

3 

Prices  of  Labour  and  Provtfi$ns  — Of  late  the  price  of  la- 
bour  and  provifions  has  greately  increafed  ;  5  1.  per  annum 
^ould  have  been  conCdered  as  lugh  wages  for  the  bed  plough- 
man a  few  years  ago ;  now  8 1.  would  be  offered  in  vain. 
From  30  s.  to  2  1.  were  the  common  yearly  wages  of  female 
fcrvants ',  of  late  they  receive  from  3  1.  to  4 1 ;  a  day-labour- 
er within  thcfe  few  years  thought  himfelf  well  paid  with  8d, 
but  now  expefts  i  s.  per  day.  Except  among  houfe  carpen- 
ters and  mafons,  who  daily  receive  from  IS.  6d.  to  2s.,  the 
advance  of  wages  has  not  been  fo  rapid  in  other  occupations. 
As  many  employed  in  thefe,  however,  are  paid  by  the  piece, 
their  income  cannot  be  mentioned  with  certainty.  Butchet 
meat,  within  the  laft  30  years,  has  rifen  from  one  id.  to  3^ 
/>fr^»/irf,  and  many  other  articles  of  provifion  in  a  higher 
proportion- 

Minerals, — ^In  this  parifli  there  are  fevcral  quarries  of  free 
^one,  and  one  in  particular  upon  the  cftate  of  Benholme,  of 
^n  excellent  quality.    All  the  rocks  on  the  coaft  chiefly  con- 

Cft 


ofBenbohne.  137 

fift  of  tlm  fort  of  ftone ;  but  what  is  found  within  flood 
mark,  being  impregnated  with  falitie  particles,  always  retains 
a  moifture,  and  is  therefore  improper  for  building  dwelling 
houfes.  Mill  ftone  of  a  good  quality  is  found  in  many  pla- 
ces along  the  (bore. 

Roads  and  Bridges. — ^The  poft  road  leading  from  Montrofe 
to  Aberdeen  runs  through  this  pari{h»  in  a  line  almoft  parel- 
lel  with  the  coaft,  and  nearly  at  the  diftance  of  a  mile  from 
it.  Not  far  from  the  churchi  and  near  to  each  other,  there 
are  two  ftone  bridges  upon  this  road,  which  contribute  much 
to  its  improvement.  A  different  dire£lion,  however,  would 
be  neceffary  to  render  it  completely  eafy,  as  the  ground,  both 
on  the  Eaft  and  Weft  fides  of  thefe  bridges,  rifes  to  a  confi- 
derable  height.  From  the  nature  of  the  foil,  and  the  difficul- 
ty of  bringing  gravel  from  the  fliore,  the  high  way  has  hither- 
to been  deep  in  winter.  Nor  are  the  crofs  roads  in  a  better 
ftate.  The  ftatute  labour  is  infufficient,  and  is  performed  with 
relu£iancy.  A  turnpike  has  often  been  propofed  through 
this  county,  and  will  doubtlefs  in  the  end  be  found  the  only 
means  for  promoting  focial  intercourfe,  by  rendering  travel- 
ling more  comfortable* 

Di/advantdgfs, — ^Deep  roads  and  a.  bad  harbour  are 
the  only  material  difadvantages  under  which  this  diftrid  la- 
bours. Fuel  is  no  doubt  fcarce ;  but  were  the  harbour  im- 
proved, the  opportunity  of  landing  coals  at  all  feafons,  would 
prevent  the  want  of  any  other  kind  of  fuel  from  being  felt. 
At  prefent  many  poor  people  frequently  pay  an  exorbiunt 
price  for  this  neceffary  article,  and  arc  often  obliged  to  en- 
dure die  rigour  of  the  cold,  from  not  being  able  in  fummer 
to  lay  in  a  fufficient  fupply. 

Antiquities. 


«3&  Stati/lical  Account 

AnfrquUleS'-^Among  the  few  antiquties  in  thJs  pariHij  may 
be  mentionec!  a  fquare  tower,  which  was  the  ancient  refi- 
dence  of  the  family  of  Benholme,  and  is  ftill  kept  in  repair^ 
though  not  inhabited.  '  From  its  pcninfular  fituation,  thick- 
nefs  of  walls,  and  battlements  on  the  roof ;  this  building 
feems  to  have  been  originally  intended  for  a  place  of 
ftrcngth  ;  and  before  the  ufc  of  artillery,  was  probably  not 
lU  calculated  to  refift  the  fudden  attack  of  an  enemy.  When 
tUis  ftrong  hold  was  built  is  uncertain.  On  the  fummit  of 
the  ncareft  hill  to  the  fea,  except  one,  bordering  with  the 
parHh  of  Cyrus,  and  commanding  an  extenfive  profpeft, 
ftands  a  rough  ftone,  in  the  circumference  of  a  ftony  circle, 
commonly  called  the  Cloach  Stone.  It  is  more  than  a  foot 
tkick,  meafures  8  feet  along  the  ground,  and  rifcs  nearly  6 
jibove  itsfurface,  in  an  inclined  diredlion  towards  the  North.  J 

Charafkr 


%  As  there  is  no  place  in  the  neighbourhood,  except  one  at  the  South  ccmcr 
pf  the  parilh,  clofc  by  the  ihore,  where  (lones  of  the  fame  quality  are  founds 
it  appears  to  have  been  brought  from  theoce,  not  without  conliderable  diffl- 
culty»  the  intervening  fpace  being  a  pretty  fteep  afcent  of  more  than  a  mile. 
It  would  fccm  therefore  to  have  been  ereded  for  Tome  ufeful  purpofe,  per* 
hap4  with  a  view  to  perpetuate  fome  memorable  event.  Tradition  fays,  a  bat- 
tle was  fought  near  the  place,  and  the  number  of  flint  heads  of  arrows,  found 
on  the  Ade  of  the  hill  whore  it  ftands,  affords  fome  rea{bn  to  credit  this  re- 
port. 6etv**een  this  and  the  coail,  a  great  quantity  of  human  bones  has  been 
<1iig  up,  in  the  coorfc  otf  improving  the  land,  for  nearly  the  fpace  of  .a  mile  a* 
long  the  rifing  ground  above  Johnshaven.  The  bottom  and  fides  of  the  graves, 
containing  thefe  bones,  were  all  lined  with  rpugh  (lones.  Ic  is  diffipult  to  ac- 
cotmt  for  fu  great  a  fpace  being  occupied  by  dead, bodies,  on  any  other  fup- 
poficion  than  that  of  an  engagement  :  At  the  fame  time,  it  feems  doubtful 
whether  fuch  a  degree  of  attention  would  be  bellowed  in  burying  all  the  dea^ 
/lain  in  the  field  of  battle,  unlefs  we  confider  it  as  mark  of  regard  from  the 
furvivors,  to  thofe  who  had  probably  fallen  in  defence  of  their  country. 
There  were  no  arms  in  any  of  thefe  graves ;  but  one  or  two  have  been  found, 

in 


tf  Benbobne.  -239 

ChartL^er  and  Manners. — Smuggling,  which  formcr- 
merly  tended  to  debiuch  the  morals  of  the  fca-faring-peoplc, 
is  no  longer  carried  on  within  the  bounds  of  this  pari(h« 
Drunkenne&  and  fighting  are  confequently  little  heard  of. 
Any  petty  fquabbles,  that  now  happen,  feldom  proceed  far- 
ther than  high  words.  A  few  profecutions  for  fcandalhave  re^ 
formed  the  obnoxious  praflice  of  abufive  language,  which 
was  much  in  ufe,  and  taught  the  generality  to*  bridU  their 
tongues.  Frugality,  fobriety,  and  induftry,  are  the  diftin- 
guifliing  chara£leriilics  of  the  country  people.  The  inhabi- 
tants of  Jolinshavcn  are  not  deficient  in  the  two  firft  of  thefc 
virtues,  though  there  is  ftill  room  for  amendment  with  re- 
gard to  induftry.  Among  every  rank,  however,  both  in 
country  and  town>  there  is  charity  enough  to  "  cover  a  mul- 
"  titude  of  fins." 

To  Conclude. — About  50  years  ago,  the  Excife  officer's  fa- 
mily was  the  only  one  in  Johnshaven  that  made  ufe  of  tea ; 
when  the  tea  kettle  was  carried  to  the  well,  to  bring  in  wa- 
ter 


in  fK)nc  coffiiM  of  aboat  4  feet  long,  at  a  place  called  Moat  Hill,  not  far 
from  the  macfion  houfe  of  Beoholme.  On  an  eminence  bordering  with  Gar- 
Tock,  called  Kincbett  or,  more  properly,  King*t  Stat  Hitl,  there  is  a  large  heap 
of  ftones  or  Cairns  where,  according  to  tradition,  a  King  fat  in  judgement ; 
among  other  complaints,  many  were  lodged  againfl  Melvilc  of  Allardice, 
at  that  time  Sheriff  of  the  county,  for  his  oppreflion.  The  Royal  Judge, 
either  wearied  with  the  complainers,  or  enraged  at  the  offender,  faid,  proba- 
bly in  a  peeviih  humour ;  *<  1  wi{h  that  Sheriff  were  fodden  and  fupped  in 
**  brofe.*'  Such  was  the  favage  barbarity  of  the  times,  that  the  Barons,  who 
were  litde  accuftomed  to  the  formalities  of  a  uial,  laid  hold  on  thefe  wordi, 
and  put  them  literally  in  execution.  The  place  where  the  deed  was  perpe- 
trated, lyes  at  the  bottom  of  the  hills,son  the  fide  next  Garvo<;k,  is  not  unlike 
the  cavity  of  a  kiln  for  drying  corn,  and  fliU  retains  the  name  of  the  Ssk&- 
RiF*8  Kettle. 


240  Statiftical  Account 

ter»  numbers  both  of  children  and  grown  people  followed  It, 
ezprefling  their  wonder,  suid  fuppofing  it  to  be  '^  «  bem/l 
*^  with  a  barn.**  In  tbofe  days  of  Cmplicity^  a  watch  or  an 
eight  day  clock  would  have  created  equal  furprife.  Now  the 
lea  kettle  has  loft  the  power  of  aftonifhing,  having  become 
a  neceiTary  piece  of  fwnitiiTe  among  die  meaaeft :  and  one 
can  fcarcely  enter  a  houfe  where  he  is  not  put  in  .mind  of 
the  fleeting  t>f  time  from  fome  one  comer  of  it. 


NUMBER. 


^Monzie.  241 


NUMBER    XIV. 


PARISH   OF    MONXIE,  ^ 


(County  of  Perth,  Presbytery  op  Auchtkrardbr,  Simii    ^ 
o»  Perth  and  Stirling.) 


By  the  Rev,  Mr  Ozokot  £rskin£,  Minuter. 


Origin  ^  the  Namt. 


A. 


LLL  •competent  judgcis  of  the  Gaelic  agree  that  the 
name  Monzie  is  derived  from  that  language.  But  they  difiicr 
la  little  about  its  orthography  or  fignification.  Some  think 
it  (hould  be  wrote  Monieu^  whidv  figniiies  Deer  Hit/,  as  pro- 
bably at  that  period  the  hills  abound  with  that  fpecics  of 
game.  Others  think  it  fliould  be  wrote  Maniui,  which  fig- 
nffies  hillfooU  and  is  very  cxprcffive  of  the  fituation  of  the 
habitable  parts  of  the  pariCh.  Biit  a  third  clafs  maintain^  and 
with  the  greatcft  jh-obabiiity,  that  it  fliould  be  virrote  Moeghe^ 
wnich  fignifies  goodphih,  as  the  low  lying  grounds  are  pret- 
ty fertii<5. 

Entintf  Pifrm,  aad  Sftefl/iofi.— The  exient  of  this  parifii  is 
tcry  confideraUe^  bring  from  E.  to  W.  7  Engliih  miles,  and" 
Vol.  XV.  H  b  from 


24^  StaMJlkal  Account 

from  N.  to  S.  at  the  greatefl;  breadth,  12  miles*  Its  figure 
IS  irregular>  perhaps  tbniewhat  fimilar  to  the  crofs«  It  is 
diflant  from  the  tovi^n  of  Perth  14  miles^  and  from  the  town 
of  CrieflF,  3  miles.  The  parifh  is  a  mountainous  diftridi.  It 
lies  on  the  fouth  fide  of  the  Grampian  hills.  The  habitibie 
part  of  the  parilh  is  divided  into  the  hadt  and  ibt forepart^  by 
a  ridge  of  very  high  hills  4  miles  in  breadth.  Each  of  fehefe 
habitable  parts  is  a  narrow  valley,  enclofed  by  hills  all  the 
length  of  the^parifhy  from  E.  to  W. 

S«7,  Surface^  Cultivation j  and  Pr^iuce^  £^f .— The  foil  of 
tliis  pariQi  is  various,  in  general  it  is  light,  dry  and  good,  but 
(hallow.  Part  of  it  is  graveilifh;  much  of  it  moily,  and 
fome  of  it  clay.     By  far  the  greatefl:  part  of  the  parifii  con- 

-iifts  of  hilb  and  (beep  farms.  The  faiiis  are  partly  green, 
but  moftly  covered  Mrith  heath,  and  the  interjacent  flats  are 
covered  with  bent,  and  rather  fwampy.  On  the  whole,  not 
above  a  third  part  of  the  pariih  is  arable :  In  the  lower  part 
of  the  parifh,  they  are  introducing  the  EngUQi  ploughs, 
drawn  with  two  horfes,  and  the  man  wlio  holds,  alfo  drives 
it.     In  the  more  deep  ground,  they  ufe  the  Scotch  plough, 

•  drawn  by  4  hoifes,  all  a-breaft,  bccaufe  they  think  it  anfwers 
better  for  going  up  bills.  About  the  middle  or  end  of  the 
month  of  y arch,  they  fow  oats  and  peafe,  then  their  flax;  after 

'  "tt'hich  they  fct  potatoes ;  and  lad  of  all  they  fow  their  barley. 
The  earlieft  barley  is  ripe  about  the  middle  of  Auguft ;  flie 
harveft  becomes  general  in  September,  and  is  finiflied  about 

'  the  end  of  that  month. 

Cihnatf^  DifeafeSy  and  Longevitj.-^'Tht  climate  of  this  pa- 
rifli  is  good  but  various.  Mild,  gentle  and  dry  in  the  vales^ 
while  the  hills  are  hid  in  fog,  or  covered  with  fnow,  or  waih- 
ed  with  rains.  A  very  common  diforder  here,  is  the  chronic 

rhcumatifm^ 


ofMMzie.  '  243 

T}ieQinatifm>  feizing  the  poorer  fort  of  people^  efpecially  thofc 
more  advanced  in  life  ;  and  this  chiefly  is  owing  to  their  mi- 
finrable  mode  of  living,  the  coldnefs  and  dampnefs  of  their 
houfesy  and  the  fcarcity  and  high  price  of  fuel.  Slow  fevers 
too  attack  them  about  fpring  and  autumn,  but  feldom  prove 
mortal.  Some,  though  very  few,  die  of  confumption  and 
palfey.  The  fmaU  pox  raged  much  here  formerly,  but  is 
now  much  mitigated  by  the  general  introduflion  of  innocu- 
lation.  The  air  on  the  whole  being  falubiious,  there  arc  a 
number  of  inftances  of  longevity  in  the  parifli.  One  man 
died  lately  aged  ico  years;  one  is  (lill  alive  aged  92,  who 
was  formerly  a  day-labourer,  and  who  is  dill  able  to  walk  a- 
bout,  and  fee  his  friends ;  and  there  is  a  conGdcrable  nupj- 
ber  of  healthy  people,  aged  70  and  80. 

Rivers  and  Fijb. — Th^  Anton j  or  ^/ffioff,  is  the  piincipal 
river.  It  runs  through  the  Eaft  part  of  the  pariflj,  and  inter- 
fecls  it  about  1 2  miles.  The  river  SiaggUy  runs  through  th^ 
centre  of  the  parifti,  and  divides  it  for  about  3  miles.  The 
river  Ke/l/e  runs  through  the  parifti,  towards  the  Weft  cncjf 
interfe^ling  it  for  about  2  miles  i  And,  the  fmall  river  Bar^ 
vie  feparates  this  pari(h  from,  that  of  Monivaird,  ior  about 
2  miles.  All  thefetrivers  hare  their  fources  in  the  north- 
em  part  of  this  pariih,  and^  after  a  variety  of  meiindeir- 
ing  circuits  among  the  hills,  they  run  direftly  South.  The 
Amon,  after  apjAroaching  near  the  South  fide  of  this  pariOi, 
runs  eaftward,  until  it  empties  itfelf  into  the  Tay  above 
Perth.  The  reft  of  thefe  rivers  meet  near  the  Weft  end  of 
the  parifh,  whence  they  run  ftill  farther  weftward,  in  one 
ftream,  which  empties  itfdf  into  the  river  Earn,  a  little  a- 
bove  CriefF.  Each  of  thefe  rivers,  aar  well  as  a  number  of 
bums^  which  defcend  from  the  hills»  and  run  into  them,  a- 
bound  with  good  black  trouts ;  and  the  Amon  has  a  pecu- 

II  ll  2  iM 


^44  Stat^kai  Account 

Ibr,  fpecies  of  fine  white  trouts.  Some,  have  been  takeo^ 
which  weighed  from  31b*  to  41b  ;  and  meafured  from  i  to 
X  i  foot  long.  Salmon  grilfes  haye  alfo  been  taken,  ftom 
71b.  to  lolb.  weight  (  and  at  the  fpawnjng  ^ime,  falmon  hare 
been  got,  (though  contrary  to  law)  weighing  ao  lb* 

Woods. — About  50  years  ajgo,  this  parifli  abounded  a  great 
deal  more  in  wood  than  it  does  at  prefent.  The  back  part 
of  the  pariOi,  called  Glenalmofjy  fcems  to  have  been  once  one 
continued  fore'ft,  whereas  now  there  is  only  one  large  pine 
tree  to  be  fcen  in  the  whole  of  it.  There  is  a  confidcrablc 
quantity  of  woodland  ftill  in  the  fore  part  of  the  parifli ;  it 
confifts  of  oaks,  elms,  beeches,  birks,  planes,  and  large  faughs. 
There  are  5  woods  upon  the  cftate  of  Monzie,  two  upon  that 
of  Calendar,  and  one  upon  that  of  Cultoquhcy ;  and  all  of 
them  are  very  thriving.  Befides  thefe,  there  are  beautiful 
and  tall  plantations  around  the  man(ion>houfes  of  Monzie 
and  Cultoquhey,  Thefe  woods  were  cut  and  fold  vi'itlun 
thefe  few  years,  and  brought  a  high  price,  tfpon  the  banks 
of  the  rivers  and  burns,  as^well  as  in  the  dens,  there  is  a  coh- 
fiderable  quantity  of  Oirubs,  which  are  both  ufeful  and  orna* 
mental. 

Wild  Animals. — ^The  wild  quadrupeds  are  hares,  badgers, 
rabbits,  roebucks,. deers,  foxes  and  ot^rs*  All  the  wild 
fowls  and  birds  of  prey,  which  are  iMitives  of  the  North  of 
Scotland,  frequent  die  woods  :  Thruihes,  linnets,  black-birds, 
finches,  ftariings,  patridges^  wild'  ducks,  hf^iona,  muir  fowl ; 
hawks,  ravens,  hooded  crows,  and  water  crows  \  and  fome* 
times  we  are  vifited  by  the  eagle.  The  birds  of  the  migra- 
.tory  kind  are  the  fwallow,  cuckow,  plover,  feldtfare,  and*  at 
jftimes  the  kingVfiiher. 

State  of  "Property y  Services^  t5V. — ^During  thefe  laft  30 
years,  there  hasr  been  no  transfer  of  property  in  the  parlfli. 

•  '*'   *        •     '     •  A 


fffMonzie.  ^45 

A  confiderable  part  of  it  is  inclofed,  but  the  greater  part  of 
it  ftill  lies  open.  The  tenants  are  fully  convinced  of  the 
^eat  adrantage  of  tncloGngj  and  would  very  willingly  give 
the  proprietors  intereft  for  fuch  fums  as  might  be  neoeflary 
for  that  pi^tpofe.  However^  as  many  of  them  have  no  leafea 
of  tbeir  farms,  fuch  are  difcouraged  even  from  that.  The 
dread  of  being  rei^ioved,  where  an  avaricious  neighbour  of- 
fers an  augmentation,  or  an  unfeeling  mafter  accepts  the 
bribe  of  iniquity,  binds  up  the  hand  of  induilry,  and  bars 
the  way  of  improvement.  As  the  arable  ground  is  of  very 
different  quality,  fo  we  find  it  kt  at  very  different  rents. 
As  to  the /Wir/rr/,  they  rent  their  grounds  at  los.  to  25s. 
an  acre.  Thofe  who  have  large  ifarms,  rent  the  arable  ground 
gt  from  8s.  to  los.  an  acre.  The  hill  part  of  the  pariOi,  is 
let  by  the  lump  to  thofe  farmers  who  are  neareft  to  it,  and 
they  pay  a  feparate  rent  for  it }  grafs  parks  have  been  let  in 
{his  parifli  at  a].  2s.  per  acre.  A  great  deal  of  ferrices  arc 
ftill  .performed  by  all  of  them  to  the  proprietors,  which 
increafe  the  value  of  the  rents.  Thefe  forvices  are  chief- 
ly farm  work,  with  carriages  of  peats  and  coals.  In  the 
cefs  book,  the  valued  rent  of  the  parifli  is  2900I.  Scotch ; 
the  real  rent  is  nearly  l^OQ^.  Sterling.  As  there  never  ws|s 
any  furvey  taken  of  this  parifli,  the  exa£l  number  of  acres  in 
it  cannot  be  afcertamed.  None  of  the  land  is  common. 
Every  proprietor  knows  exaAly  the  marches  of  his  own 
^eftate*  The  moft  of  the  hilly  part  is  pafture,  becaufe  of  its 
fteepnefs,  but  the  lower  parts  are  cultivated  and  produce 
very  virell.  There  is  but  a  very  (mall  parr  of  the  parifti  •thir- 
led to  their  lairds  mills,  they  being  exempted  from  that  bon- 
dage, and  free  to  grind  their  com  where  they  pleafe j  upon 
conditkms  of  their  paying  to  the  proprietor  a  fum  among 
them,  equal  to  the  vent  of  the  null,  and  this  in  proportion  to 
|heir  own  rents.' 


a^S  ,      Statiflical  Account 

Proiaccy  Exports^  &c. — The  principal  crops  raifcd  in  thi^ 
parifli,  are  oats,  barley,  flax,  and  potatoes.  Of  late,  they 
haw  fown  feme  peafe,  rye,  T^^eat,  grafs  feeds,  and  turnips, 
all  of  which  do  very  well.  As  the  produce,  efpecially  of  the 
fore  part  of  the  parifli,  is  much  greater  than  is  neccflary  for 
the  confumption  of  its  inhabitants,  confidcrable  quantities  of 
butter,  cheefe,  meal,  mutton,  beef,  pork,  oat-meal,  barley, 
and  potatoes,  are  difpofed  of  in  the  towns  and  places  adja* 
cent. 

Hor/es^  Blachcattle^  Steep,  and  JVooL — The  cattle  arc  all  of 
the  fmall  kind,  but  good  of  their  fizes.  All  the  high  priced 
cattle  belong  to  the  low  part  of  the  f  ariih,  and  arc  rear- 
ed in  gentlemen's  parks.  Grazing  cattle  is  now  become 
more  common  than  it  was  formerly.  The  farmers  in  gene- 
ral, rear  their  own  cattle,  of  erery  fpecies,  and  thus  keep  their 
Stock  (as  they  term  it,)  alive»  Thejr  keep  from  2  to  6  work- 
ing hoffes,  each,  and  from  3  to  6,  and  fome  even  10  or  12 
milk  cows.  It  is  believed,  that  there  are  1 0,000  (heep  rn 
the  parifli.  They  are  of  the  Scotch  becd,  and  very  hardy. 
Their  wool  is  good,  and  their  flelh  very  fwcet.  The  aver- 
age prices  of  cattle,  wool,  &c.  are  as  follows : 


Workiof  horfes  fell  at  from  X..  3    o     each,  ro 


Milk  cows 

%    0      

0    5      

Wool 

0  10  per  ftone, 

0    6 

L.  8    0 

0 

8.0 

» 

7    0 

0 

0  18 

0 

a  11 

t> 

0    8 

• 

Population. — ^There  is  every  reafon  to  believe,  that  the  po- 
pulation of  this,  as  well  as  of  fome  of  the  neighbouring  pa- 
rishes, has  greatly  diminiihed,  fincc  the  beginning  of  the  pre- 
fent  century.     The  remains  of  uninhabited*  houfcs,  the  enu- 

grations 


ofMomde.  ^7 

|[ration8  of  young  people  of  both  fexes,  who,  thinking  their 
parents  oppreffed  in  their  farms,  go  away  to  other  parts,  and 
other  employments  ;  fewer  of  thofe  who  remain  joining  in 
masriage  now  than  formerly ;  and,  above  all,  the  monopoly 
o£  farms,  which  fo  much  prevails ;  fome  individuals  rent* 
ing  and  farming  lands,  formerly  p^effed  by  <5,  8,  or  lOp 
and  fome  even  pofTciTed  by  ao  tenants ;  thefe,  and  many  o- 
ther  circumftances,  accoilnt  for  and  prove  the  great  decreaic 
of  the  population.  No  enumeration  of  this  pariQi,  however, 
previous  to  the  one  drawn  up  in  1755,  ^^  ^^  requeft  of  Dr 
Wcbftcr,  has  been  made ;  or,  if  it  was,  can  now  be  difcorer- 
cd.  Upon  comparing  that  report,  however,  with  the  refult 
of  an  enumeration  made  by  the  prefent  .incumbent  in  1792, 
the  decreafe  within  theie-40  years  does  not  appear  fo  greal^ 
as,  from  die  above  caufes,  might  have  been  cxpeftcd  : 
For  the  number  of  fouls  in  I7S5>  was  -  1 192 

Ditto  in  1792,  -  -  1 136 

Hence  the  decreafe  is-  only 

Of  thefc  there  were  examinable  perfons,  ,    703    7 
Children  under  that  age,  -  433    j 

Married  perfons,  -  -        326 

Widows  and  widowers,  -  -  ^3    1         7^3 

Bachelors  and  unmarried  women,         -         294 
Inhabitants  in  the  village. 
Poor  on  the  roll. 

The  No.  of  births  *,  from  December  1 792  to  De- 
cember 1793,  was 

Marriages  *  within  that  period, 

■-^-^^ — Deaths* 


1 


1X2 
10 


30 

9 

29 


-  •••  Norccor^.^ffwienashadcvfrbeeoke^t  in  Oie  pari/h  j^reWoiiB  m 
December  1792  ;  nor,  for  a  long  time,  wa«  there  even  any  rcgifter  of  births 
ijf  i^magc* ;  but,  u^on  the  moil  accurate  enquiry  that  can  be  made«  the  a- 
*ove*appcai  to  be  the  average  nmnben  for  many  yeanpaft. 


^4*  StatiftUal  Account 

Condttums  and  Occupaticns.-^AU  the  inhabitants  of  this  p^ 
Tifh  are  eithdr  proprietors,  farmers^  tradefmen,  or  day4ap 
bourcrs.  The  great  part  of  the  farming  work^  is  done 
by  the  farmers  themfclves,  their  wives,  their  fons,  and  their 
daughters.  There  is  a  great  number  of  pendiclers  and 'cot- 
tagers in  this  pariih.  The  former  clafs  are  thofe  who  rent 
a  houfe  and  a  fmall  piece  of  ground  from  the  proprietor  ; 
the  latter  rent  it  from  the  tenantt  and  are  obliged  to  work  to 
him  during  the  harreft,  and  even  at  other  times,  if  it  be  need-' 
ful. 


N«.ofproprictort, 

— ^-^Wesrrm, 

54    Mafeos, 

4 MiUert, 

Fkftien, 

8    Licenfed  tlcfdlen, 

8    — —  Farmers, 

it 

6    —  Pcndidcn, 

6t 

86 

Tsiaori, 

lid 

1 

Mani^aBures. — ^The  principal  one  in  the  parifh  is  that  of 
weaving*  They  weave  all  kinds  of  plain  andptweclcd  linen,' 
and  woolen  cloth ;  and  thefe  not  only  for  their  own  ufe,  but 
iXio  for  ikle ;  the  chief  kinds  of  cloth  made  by  them  are  plaid- 
en,  linen  and  fcrims.  The  plaiden  they  fell  at  from  lod. 
to  I4d.  per  yard.  They  taake  a  very  large  quantity  of  lincnl 
cloth,  and  bleach  it  excellently  themfelvcs ;  it  is  of  various  de- 
grees of  finenefSy  and  they  fell  it  at  from  i  s.  to  4s.  per  yard. 
Some  families,  where  there  are  only  two  looms,  have!  madei 
and  fold  1000  yards  p§r  annum.  The  fciim  is  a  narrow 
linen  cloth,  of  different  degrees  of  finenefs,  and  which  they 
fell  without  bleaching  it  It  is  all  exported,  perhaps  for 
trowfcrs.  The  women  fpin  a  great  deal  of  yarn,  which  they 

make 


ttiake  into  cloth  for  (ale,  sind  thus  by  their  bduftry  raiib  i, 
part  of  their  rent. 

Prica  of  Provijionf  and  Laiaur. — Owing  to  the  wet  hatveft 
In  1 792>  provifions  rofe  much  m  their  price.  Work  here  ia 
generally  done  by  the  piece.  The  wages  of  domeftic  fcr- 
vants  .are  nearly  the  fame  with  thofe  of  ^arm  fervSLnts.  The 
following  are  the  average  prices  at  prefent,  (1793)  both  ot 
provifions  and  Jabour  t 


Paiczs  op  PftovtaioNS. 

to  Movcnaberjper  day,£rQDi 

Oat  meal,  per  peck,        L.  o 

X 

0 

11.  to           -              L.  0 

t 

Barley  ditto,            -             o 

0 

8 

Dilto  from  Kot.  to  Maflrch, 

OaU,  per  boll,  from  t6s.  to  <J  18 

0 

8d.to                   -           0 

t 

Bear  per  ditto,         i««.  to     i 

0 

0 

tkito  dvkig  bafvta  ttd 

Potatoes  per  peck,   3d.  to    0 

0 

6 

hay-DMikiiig,         -           0 

% 

Bed,  matton,  veal,  and  poik,\ 

A  woman^  at  farm  work  in 

per  lb.    *        •                  0 

0 

3i 

fununer^              •           0 

t 

A  pig,                     .               c 

4 

0 

A  Joiner,               -              0 

1 

A  goofe,           -                   0 

% 

6 

A  flater^               -                0 

% 

A  duck,               *                0 

I 

0 

A  tailor,  whh  mtintiiioance,  0 

0 

A  turkey,            -                [0 

3 

0 

A  man  fenrant  per  aanum^  with 

A  hen,                     •             0 

I 

0 

ditto,  from  L.  3  to             Z 

0 

A  cbickcD,            •            ""0 

0 

3 

A  woman,  per  ditto  with 

Batter  1,  per  lb.                    0 

0 

9 

ditto,  L.  3  to                   4 

0 

Checfe  \  per  ditto,  from  id. 

A  man  in  harveft,  fbr  the 

to                    -                   0 

0 

3 

feaXbd,               -               i 

to 

PaiCBiov  Labovr. 

A  woman  in  ditt9,  forditt^, 

A  day  labouier,  froni  March 

lis.  to              A               t 

0 

o 
6 
ti 


E£clefiafticaJ  Sidie,  Herihrs^  &c. — All  the  inhabitants  are 
of  the  eftafcliflied  church,  excepting  i  Berean,  5  Epifcopa- 
lians,  and  30  Antiburgher  Seced^ra*    There  are  np  Romad 

Vol.  XV  I  i  Catholics 

\  \  Butter  and  chcefe  are  fold  by  the  tron  weight,  aU  other  if(k}tl 
tither  by  EngKih  or  Putch, 


25c  Statifikal  Account 

Catholic*  in  this  paiifh;  All  of  thefe  come  occafionally  to  the  . 
church,  excepting  the  Antiburghers.  The  King  is  patron, 
but  the  family  of  Monzie  have  always  had  fufhcient  intereft 
to  f^cute  th& pjefentation  as  thcy.wi(hed.  The  living  con- 
fifts  of  2  2.bolls  of  meal,  10  bolls  of  bear,  and  53I.  6s.  6d.  in 
moiTey,  The  ftipend  is  paid  by  5  heritors,  viz.  Col.  Camp- 
bell of  Monzie,  Mr  Drummond  of  Logieamond,  Mr  Graham 
of  Balgowan,  -Col..  Rbbertfon  of  Lawers,  and  the  Eail  of 
Kinnoul.  Col.  Campbell  is  the  only  one  who  has  a  maniion 
houfe  in  the  parifli.  The  manfe  and  offices  were  all  built  with- 
in thefe  3  years.  The  glebe  conHfts  of  two  parts ;  one  near 
the  manfei  containing  about  5  acres  of  good  arable  ground ; 
the  -other  about  a  mile  from  tlie  manfe>  upon  a  fmall  emi- 
nence, eontaimng  about  3  acres  of  very  bad  ground.  The 
church  is  60*  feet  long,  and  20  feet  wide.  It  was  built  irt 
1685.  It  was  lately  repaired,  is  well  feated,  and  very  com- 
modious. The  pulpit,  which  is  made  of  oak,  bears  date 
161 7.  That  part  of  the  pariih  called  Gienalmon  is  annexed 
quoad  Jacra  to  the  chapel  of  Amblerie.  There  is  a  village 
near  the  church. 

Schools. — ^tJntil  of'  late  ttcre  were  4  fchools  in  this  paridi.  ! 

One  in  the  North  part,  another  in  the  Eafl,  a  third  in  the 
^uth  part,  and  the  edablifiied  fehool  near  |he  centre.     In  | 

all  of  thefe  were  taught  Englifb,  writing, arithmetic,  and  book-  I 

keeping.  The  firft  of  thefe  fdiools,  pwing  to  the  union  of 
farms,  is  given  up,  the  teacher  not  being  able  to  fupport  him-  I 

fclf.  Tlie  other  3  fiill  continue.  The  falary  of  the  one  at  the 
Eaft  end  of  the  parifh  is  5I.  per  annnm^  with  a  houfe  and 
garden.  It  is  paid  by  the  Duke  of  Athol  out  of  the  biihop's 
rents'.     His  fees,  however,  iot  each  of  the  branches  taught  1 

arc  only  is.  per  quarter.    The  number  of  fcholars  are  from 

40  ) 


ofMonzie.  251 

40  to  60.  The  fchool  on  the  South 'fide  has  no  fixed  falary, 
only  a  houfe  and  garden,  given  to  him  gratis  by  Mr  Maxton 
of  CuHtoquhey.  The  fees  arc  the  fame  as  abovcj  for  each 
branch  only  is.  per  quarter.  The  number  of  fcholars  are 
from  30  to  50.  As  to  the  cftablifhed  fchool,  thfe  number  of 
fchoJars  attending  it  are  from  40  to  70*  The.  mafter's  fak^ 
ly  and  emoluments  from  the  kirk  feffion,  and  keeptrig 
the  regifters,  is  about  12I.  per  annum  ;  he  has  a  free  houfe 
and  garden.  The  fees  for  ]Engli(h  are  is.  per  quarter,  for 
"writing  is.  6d.  per  quarter,  for  arithmetic  2s.  per  quarter, 
and  for  a  complete  fet  of  book-keeping  los.  6d.  All  of  thefe 
fchools  arc  very  convenient  for  the  parifli,  and  the  teachers 
are  careful  and  diligent.  .  Learning  is  now  more  generally 
diffii fed  than  formerly. 

PGof^-^Tht  amount  of  the  ^neekty  coHe£Uons  is  about  iol. 
a-year.  Befides  this,  there  arc  the  dues  ariling  from  the  uife 
x)f  two  mort-cloths,  the  intereft  of  120I.  fank  money,' tmd  pe- 
nalties exafted  from  delinquents.  The  regular  poor  receive 
2s.  a-month,  and  the  occafional  poor  receive  5S.  los.  and 
fometimes  even  20s.  at  a  time.  AH  the  poor  are  either 
maintained  in  their  own  houfcs,  or,  when  necefliryi  arc  board- 
ed. The  greateft  number  of  the  poor  cam  about  two-thirds 
of  their  maiirtainancc-.  None  belonging  to  the  pariiK  arc  aU 
lowed  to  beg,  ahhough  many  (Irangcr  vagrants  infeft  it  not 
a  little. 

Language,  and  Etym-jlt^ies, — Thisparifh  being  fituated  on  tfic 
borders  of  the  Highlands,  apd  having  much  .intercourfe  an4 
conneftionvwith  the  natives,  wc  need hotbe  furprifcd  toiind 
that  the  Gaelic  is  fpokcn  in  the  back  part  of  it,  and  the  old 
5cotch  dialeft  in  the  fore  part,  pronounced  with  Ihe  Gaefic 
tone  and  accent.    There  are,  ho^ptx^  yery  f^^w  perfons  u} 


952  Statifikal  Account 

the  whole  parl(h,  who  do  not  either  (jpeak  or  undecftand 
GaeUc.  Moft  of  the  names  of  places  are  evidently  derived 
irOm  that  l^nguage^\and  are  expxeffive  of  their  local  (hna- 
fipn.  The  foUowing  may  fcrvc  as  a  fpecimcai  Liihenty 
£gi>ifies  the  broader  country.  Kinrtigira^on,  the  end  of  the 
YOCk.  CulUquh^  is  the  Engliih  nime  for  its  original  Gaelic 
naone^  Camhai-cuhs^  i.  e^  Comhal*6  battle. 

Bridges,  Roadsy  AU-honfes^  Mil^,  and  Markets, — Over  the 
river  Aimon  at  Buchandy,  there  is  a  bridge  of  one  arch,  laid 
pvcr  another,  and  bearing  date  i639.  It  was  built  by  the 
Earl  of  Tullibardin  when  he  had  14s  fummer  reHdence  in 
this  place,  the  remains  of  which  rtfidence  are  ftlll  to  be 
feen.  His  arms  are  cut  on  it,  and  the  initials  of  liis  own  and 
his  lady's  names.  The  proper  name  of  the  bridge,  however, 
t$  M^Bean^s  hri^ff^  becaufe  of  a  chapel  originally  «car  it,  c^led' 
&t  M^BearCs  chapel  |).  On  all  the  public  roads  there  are  good 
bridges.  Thofe  upon  the  county  road  built  by  the  county^i 
and  the  others  by  {iibfeription^  The  roads  here  were  kept  up 
formerly  by  the  ftatutc  labour,  which  is.  generally  very  iU 
performed,,  and  therefore  it  is  now  commuted.  They  pay 
from  8s.  to  los.  each  plough,  and  the  pendiclers  and  cot- 
tagers pay  IS.  6d*  a-year.  There  are  7  Itcenfed  ale-houfes 
^n  th^  pariih.  There  are  5  oat  meal  miUs^  and  two  flax  mills. 

.   The 

I  Near  the  N.  £.  comer  of  the  parifli,  there  had  been  another  chapel, 
but  no  veftige  of  it  is  now  to  be  feen.  There  is  IIUI  a  burying  ground  in 
that  place,  and  iU  fkuation  is  moft  roffianth;.  Tradition  hyt,  t^at  the  even- 
ing before  the  battle  of  Lunkaity,  4o  roeo  took  the  femmcHt  here,  whn  all 
frest  to  dte  field,.and  only  6  of  them  recuraed.  In  digging  for  inarl  a-  liccie 
|o  the  weft  ^  MoDzie^  a  part  9/  a  deer's  horn  was  found,  7  inches  in  rtrcun. 
fqrence ;  and  the  barrel  of  a  gun,  5  feet  long,.  4  inches  in  circumference  at 
the  one,  and  7  inches  in  circumference  at  the  other  end,  1  ftoncs  in  weight, 
ft  had  evidently  "been  uftd  befbrt  the  inttntton  of  the  Ibdtt,  as  the  Butclii 
^dte  is  entire  and  piai% 


The  meal  milb  make  Kttj  good  pot  hatkf ,  without  any  ^« 
ditional  machinery.  There  is  only  one  yearly  market  in  tic' 
parifl),  when  every  h^ufej  huty  and  (had^a  is  aonverted  into 
A  dram-lhop ;  it  is  held  in  the  middle  of  Auguft. 

Romanik  Scenery^  Cajcades^  &c. — ^This  parifli  is  remark- 
able for  romantic  fcenery^  aotl.  chiefly  that  part  of  it  called 
GlenalwM.  Near  the  Weft  end  of  the  fore  part  of  the  pa- 
rifli, the  river  Barvie  runs  through  a  deep  den,  where  it 
forms  feveraliioiall  caicadee.  The  den  is  clothed  with  natu<« 
ral  woody  and  at  fome  pkces  koo  feet  deep.  Near  a  mile 
North  from  the  place  of  MonziC)  upon  t^e  river  Keltic,  there 
is  a  remarkable  den>  with  various  cafcades.  I  he  Mppevraoft 
cafcade,  called  «S^w/-^/7^»  is  in  breadth  at  the  top  5  feet  \  the 
rivcx  faUs  over  a  fmo9th  floping  rock>  the  hei^t  of  which  is 
po  feet,  and  the  breadth  at  the.  bottom  43  feet.  The  river 
then  contra£ts  into  its  fovmer  narrow  chanAcl*  runs  through 
the  thick  wooded  den,  150  feet  deep.  Here  ther^  arc  fome 
other  water  falls,  5  feet  wide  at  tpp^  and  10  feet  perpencU- 
cular,  with  bafons  cut  by  lutiure  out  of  the  folid  rock,  one 
of  which  is  i  %  feet  diameter,  and  9  feet  deep.  At  the 
rTK)uth  of  the  den,  the  river  feems  to  have  made  a  path  for  tt- 
felf  in  the  folid  rock,  6  feet  in  breadth  at  the  top,  and  10  feet 
in  height;  the  bafon  itfelf  is  la  fec;t  diameter*  From 
this  fall  to  the  front  of  the  rock  is  24  feet  \  but  ^e  opening, 
^t  of  which  the  river  begins  again  to  run,  is  only  about  4 
feet  wide.  All  the  way  from  Monaie  manfion-boufe  to  Spout- 
Bay,  along  the  banks  of  the  river,  there  is  a  foot  path  made 
and  repaired  by  the  family  \  at  the  top  of  which,  on  the  fide  of 
the  den,  and  in  fufl  view  of  Spout-bay,  there  is  crefled  a  her- 
mitage, for  the  reception  of  the  admiring  vifitors  of  this  caf- 
cade.  About  a  mile  above  the  village  of  Monzie  there  is  a- 
noth^r  beautiful  cafcade^  upon  the  river  Shaggie  \  the  breadth 

of 


2^4  Statijlical  Account 

of  the  Tivcr  at  the  top  is  i8  feet,  tlic  hcfght  of  the  fall  55 
feet,  and  the  breadth  at  the  bottom  43  feet.  It  falls  over 
very  rugged  roeks.  One  wouW  thmk  the  path  had  been 
made  by  the  hand  of  t^xU  Near  the  bridge  of  Buchancfy, 
there  is  a  cafcadc  to  feet  broad,  and  .16  feet  high. 

Artificial  Mount;  Large  Trees,  g^c. — Oppofitc  to  the  foot 
"  of  th'e  principal  entry  into  the  tnanfioh-houfc  of  Monzie, 
thcfe  is  an  artificial  mount,  near  70  feet  high,  in  (hape 
*  a  truncated  cone^  tipon  which  ^ftanJs  a  a  Chinefc  temple* 
^This  temple  is  heiagonaf,  and  almoft  entirely  open,  ex- 
cept the  pillars  which  fupport  the  roof.*    It  is  1 4  feet  long, 
12  broad,  and  14  feet  highr  The  roof  terminates  in  a  pointy 
upon  which  there  is  a  balcony  with  a  bell,  about  4  feet  high. 
In  the  garden  of  Monzic  there  are  4  larch  trees,  faid  to  be 
the  finfeft  and  largcft  in  Britain*    They  are  not  yet  60  years 
old.     One  of  them  is  80  'feet  high ;  its  circumference  at 
mid-height  is  7  feet,  and  its  circumference  at  the  ground  16 
feet;  its  branches  eictcnd   all  around  30  feet  on  each  fide. 
ITie  other  two  are  about  the  fame  height,  but  the  circum- 
fercricc  pf  the  one  at  the  ground  is  15  feet,  and  that  of  the 
other  is  only  9  feet  j  the  fourth  is  90  feet  high,  and   8  feet 
In  circumference  at  the  ground.     They  arc"  M  in  perfeft  vi- 
gour, fending  forth  frefh  £ho(Jts  every  year.     Befidcs  thcfe, 
there  are  among  the  planting,  and  near  the  houfe,  a  good 
deal  of  fpriice,  Clvei'  fit,  balm-of-Gilead  fir,  &c.  60  and  ^q 
feet  high,  and  not  hi  the  lead  decaying. 

Mineral  Springs  Echoy  Caves,  Whirlwind^  &c. — There  is  one 
fpring  in  the  parifli  whoCe  waters  were  held  in  great  efteem, 
until  about  20  years  ago,  when  two  trees  which  grew  over  it, 
f^Il,  and  the  virtue  of  the  well  fell  with  them.  In  a  parti- 
cular p^rX  of  Glenalmon^  am^ng  the  hills,  there  is  an  echo 

whicl> 


of  Monzte-.  255. 

which  repeats.  dSftindlly  every  word.  There  arc  many  cavet 
here,  but  the  moft  rcmaikable  one  is  at  the  back  of  Glcntur^ 
rety  which  is  fufScicnt  to  hold  60  men  under  arms.  It  is  (i- 
tuated  in  a  rock,  named  Eaglis  Rochj  inacceflSble  on  all  fides^ 
except  one  narrow  path.  It  is  (aid  to  be  the  cave  into  which 
Gara  fled,  after  burning  FiNGAt's  houfe.  Near  this  cave;. 
there  is  a  high  Pihe  tree  *,  which  is  remarkable,  becaufc 
there  is  not  another  tree  at  prefent  to  be  foUnd  in  alt  that 
part.  This  hill  country  is  much  expofed  to  tempefts,  and 
efpccially  to  tlie  whirlwind.  It  unroofs  the  houfes,  over- 
turns the  (lacks,  tears  up  the  heath  and  broom,  and  even 
fweeps  large  ftones  before  it.  A  moft  remarkable  thing  in 
this  wind  is,  a  noife  it  makes,  fo  like  thunder  that  (trangers 
cannot  but  believe  it  is  fo.  It  makes  tliis  noife  in  a  certain 
hollow  part  of  the  glen  furrounded  by  rocks  on  all  fides* 

Natural  Pi/tnomena,^ — ^There  is  a  great  curiofity,  called 
Tke'Kirk'Gf'the'Woodf  not  far  from  the  Eagle's  Rock.  It  is 
compofcd  of  large  ftones,  divided  into  feveral  apartments, 
with  arches  and  trances,  and  each  ftone  refting  fo  on  ano- 
ther, that  one  would  imagine  it  were  the  work  of  art.    Near 

New- 

*  Trudition  fays,  if  any  pafon  cut  a  branch  from  thu  tree  h^  die»,  and 
that  a  itvet ! ! ! 

^  In  the  year  1756,  a  nnaUr  Jpwt  broke  in  the  hills  above  Mooae ;  ic 
took  it«  courfe  down  the  river  Shaggic,  and  raifcd  it  20  feet  perpendicular  at 
the  bridge ;  it  fwcpt  entirely  away  a  bank  near  Monzic,  which  cbft  500L 
Sterling,  and  it  cad  out  upon  the  fides  facb  quantities  of  fiih,  that  the  inha- 
bitants carried  them  home  in  balkets ;  the  river  fublidiog  fo  quickly,  that 
they  were  left  behind.  In  the  year  '175S,  during  a  heavy  rainarf  tfattfailb,  die 
water  coUe^ed  on  the  top  of  the  brae  near  Monzie,  and  carried  down  fuch 
a  quantity  of  the  earth  into  the  Shaggie,  as  left  a  den  aoo  feet  hm^,  above 
100  feet  broad,  fi'om  edge  to  edge,  ahd  70  feet  deep.  For  feveral  yean  pafi^ 
fome  (hocks  of  an  Earth^akt  ivere  feic  here,  and  in  the  neighbouriDg  pariih4 
their  diredion  was  from  £.  to  W.       .       •     . 


2^6  Stat\fticnl  Account  : 

^NtW'.tbwn' there  is  a  ftone,  on  which  arc  the  figtnrcs  of  peo- 
ple's, feet,  with  thofc  of  die  hooves  of  horfcs,  cows,  and 
Ibeep. ' 

Jbrtiqvkks.'^A^  the  Rdinins  and  ancient  Caledonians  con« 
tinned  tlieir  contefls  kmg  about  the:£roni;  of  die  Grampian 
hills,  we  find  a  vaft  number  of  cainps,  forts,  &c.  and  fini- 
lar  relics  of  antiquity.  About  2  miles  eaft  from  tiie  church, 
at  the  country  called  FinAcif,  there  is  a  iarge  camp.  It  is 
fituated  oppolite  to  the  only  proper  paflage  through  the  hills 
found  in  them,  for  about  40  miles :  it  ftaods  on  a  high 
ground,  defended  by  waters  on  two  fides,  and  a  mofs  with 
fteep  ground  on  the  others.  The  trenches  are  ftill  entire, 
and  in  fame  places  -6  feet  deep*  It  is  about  iSo  paces  in 
length,  and  80  paces  in  breadth,  and  was  furrounded  by  a 
ftrong  earthen  wall,  part  of  which  ftill  remains,  and  is  near 
12  feet  thick.  Thofe  who  are  connoifTeurs  in  fuch  matters, 
fay  It  could  contain  12*000  men.  Within  the  camp  there  is 
a  large  plain,  called  Rathmorcy  ue.  fortification ^  which,  howe- 
ver, fcems  to  be  of  a  later  date.  Near  this  there  arc  many 
ruins,  bunows,  cairns  of  ftones,  fome  of  which  have 
been  opened,  and  were  found  to  be  graves.  Near  this  camp 
ftands  a.  village  called,  in  Gaejic,  Fianteach, /.  ^.  Fingal's 
houfej.  Within  two  miles  North  from  this,  ftands  the 
high  hill  of  Dunm$re.  On  it  there  is  a  ftrong  fort,  which 
had  the  complete  command  of  the  paffage  through  the  hills. 
This  fort  inclofes  the  fummit  of  the  hill  \  and  is  inacceflible 

'    on 

4  'ttadmm  ^^*t  Finoal's  houfis  ftood  here  wiW  \x  wu  bamt  by  G«r^ 
Companog  tlw  aafnei.of  plftces,  and  the  namet  of  ihe  princes  m  memioiM4 
in.  ttftorji  it  a  probsble,  tbls  ctnii  was  occopkd  abovt  the  year  300.  Tra- 
6\Am  fikjay  Hagal  dtralt  for  feme  time  in  thit  covntry,  and  we  koow  both  hit . 
father  and  his  Ibo  8f«  bmried  here.  When  digging  latcl^T  ^oMAg  the  rain^ 
plates  of  lead,  curiow  bcad.ft6ne»,  dogVcollan,  Jcc  were  £ott»dtf 


tffMonxic.  V57 

oil  ill  fldis  "but  orrc.  It  is  defended  by  a  deep  trencJi  ^xtff-  • 
oiit  the  t(ralls.  It  is  30  paces  in  breadth  within  tlie  ininer 
trail,  and  180  paces  around  t)ie  fort.  Each  ^11  Is  lo  feet 
thick,  and  20  feet  diftarit  from  each  other,  and  from  the 
cater  wall  to  the  trench  is  30  paces.  This  is  fald  to  havfe 
been  Fingal*s  habitation,  after  Gaua  btimed  his  houfe  •. 
The  wails  are  built  withftcmc  but  no  cement,  and  fomc  of 
the  ftones  would  weigh  300  ftoncs  weight.  About  a  miles 
Eaft  from  Fiantiach,  there  is  another  fort,  called  .£f«^.  It 
is  twice  as  large  as  the  one  above,  exceedingly  {^rong,  and 
appears  to  have  becTi  built  by  the  fame  perfons  :  It  is  fur- 
rounded  with  two  wqlls.  The  inner  wall  is  240  paces  round, 
the  diftance  between  the  walls  is  10  feet,  and  eajph  w;all  is 
20  feet  thick.  On  the  contiguous  muir  there  are  many  cairns, 
tttmuliy  and  burrows,- which  are  thought  to  be  monuments  of 
heroes,  but  even  tradition  is  filent  about  them.  One,  however, 
is  called  Caim-Comhai  J,  in  memory  of  Fikgal's  father.  In 
the  fame  moor  there  are  alfo  a  cairns,  50  feet  in  circumfer- 
ence* On  the  top  of  a  hill,  on  the  other  fide  of  .the  paiTage 
through  the  hills,  and  oppofite  to  Dunmore,  is  ano^er-c^nia 
where  the  ftones  feem  to  be  a  fallen  arch  \  it  was  probably 
a  fmall  fort,  and  is  fo  near  that  of  Dunmore,  that  pe^rjfon^ 
could  converie  with  each  oth^r  acrofs  the  glen,  Thete  is  a 
fmall  camp  on  the  South  fide  of  the  parifli,  near  to  Culto- 
quhey,  called  in  Gz^igy  Omial  cult^  x.  e.  C?omhars  battle  |. 
Vol.  XV,  Kk  We 

•  Some  bvg^  teeth  w6«e  ftond  ktely,  Ukd  t  pierkf  i.  r.  4  haatf  xnSI, 
whkh  W9I  made  of  the  hill  Hone,  and  did  not  bear  the  mark  of  any  tool. 

t  Tku  Cairn  wai  opened  lately,  and  conuined  a  large  flone  eoffin,  ^ 
ilone  covering  the  lid  of  the  coffin,  was  4  feet  |o  inches  long,  a|  feet  broad, 
and  2  feet  thick. 

I  rradltlon  fayft,  that  CoitHAL  fought  here,  but  loft  the  battle,  Some 
1jrn>  with  aihci  were  dug  up  here  htel;.    In  the  regiffcr  of  St  Andrew's  wc 

iit 


^e  ^ve  ^very  reafpn  to  believe^  that  feme  great  men  hayf 
^bcen  bufiedin  tbis'place,  and  we  are  certain,  diat  the  {ac- 
inous Cakdoni^an  bard,  Ossi^N,  lies  here.  His  tomb  is  wep 
known,  and  oft^n  v^fited.  It  is  a  coffin  of  4  flones  fet  o^ 
edge,  about  2  feet  Jong,  2  feet  4^ep,  \i  feet  broad,  and 
over  it  is  laid  a  great  (lone,  about  8  feet  high,  and  2 1  feet  in 
circumference..  General  Wade's  fcrrant  difcovered  itj^  when 
making  the  King's  high  way. 

Chara^er  and  Manners^  Ssfr. — The  people. of  this  parifh 
may  be  faid  to  anfwer  iht  general  charafter  of  the  Scotch  ; 
for  they  are  fober^  honeft,  humane,  indufirious,  and  lefpeii- 
ful  to  their  fuperiors.  The  have  a  reafonable  meafure  of 
the  comforts  and  conveniences  of  life,  arc  contented  witfi 
their  lot,  attend  moft  regularly  upon  public  worfhip,  an4 
behave  with  a  becoming  decency  in  the  houfe  of  God.  Not 
one  inftance  of  fuiclde,  or  o^  any  perfon  belonging  to  tliis 
parifh  being  judicially  convlAed  of  any  crime,  has  occurred 
thcfe  40  years.  In  general,  they  drcfs  better  than  formerly. 
They  meet  together  at  times,  and  make  merry.  Their' chief 
-amufement  at  public  meetings  is  dancing  ;  and,  upon  thefc 
'occafions,  there  is  a  pleafing  cheerfulnefs  and  innocence  a-  ♦ 
mortg  them.  They  are  not  however  ent\rely  free  of  fuper- 
ftition.  Lucky  and  unlucky  days  znd  feet  are  ftill  attended  to, 
cfpecially  about  the  end  and  beginning  of  the  year.  No  per- 
ibn  will  be  proclaimed  for  marriage  in  the  end  of  one  year, 
or  even  quarter  of  the  year,  and  be  married  in  the  beginning 
of  the  nes^t.    The  power  of  an  evU  eye^  too,  is  ftill  believed, 

although  y 

ate  told,  that  Cokstantink  the  fon  of  Cullen  was  killed  by  Kcnnkth, 
the  fon  of  MxicoLiil  T.  at  Itathmore,  in  the  year  99a.  And  it  it  probable' 
l^e  is  hurried  in  one  of  thofe  cairns.  HoLi.iNsuEO.teIU  us,  that  king  Culen 
-VI  as  killed  by  Eadua^o  at  Mcthven  caille,  almoft  in  the  middle  of  his  way 
to  Scone ;  and  Methven  fignifief  mid-way  in  the  Gaelic,  and  it  is  £tU3ted  b^* 
tw'ixt  Ratliniorc  and  Scone, 


ofMonzie.  259 

although  the  faith  of  the  people  in  witchcraft  is  much  en- 
feebled. The  people  have  nothing  rpmarkable  in  their  fize, 
ftrength,  or  features.  They  z\t  generally  6f  the  middle  fize, 
and  of  a  dufky  complexion.  There  are  fome,  however,  6 
ifcet  in  height. 

Advantages  and  Dif advantages. ^^Th^  principal  difadvan^ 
tage  this  parifh  labours  under,  is  its  great  diftance  from  fuel; 
The  nearelt  coal  to  Momzte  is  20  miles  diftaht.  The  com- 
mon people  burn  turf,  heathy  ^eats,  wood,  (hrubs^  and 
broom.  Lail  wiater,  coals  were  fold  here  at  3d.a  ftone  ;  and 
even  in  fummer,  they  are  ad.  the  done*  Another  difadVan- 
tage  is  the  want  of  lime  ;  for  although  it  can  be  got  at  no 
great  diftance,  yet  the  expence  of  fuel  for  burning  it,  renders 
It  ufcleFs.  Marl  is  near  us,  but  faid  not  to  be  very  good  ; 
beHdes  it  is  extremely  dear,  and  the  farmers  wotild  all  give 
the  preference  to  lime.  Great  advantages,  however,  arc  ex- 
pe£ted  from  the  improvement  and  extenfion  of  the  roads. 
In  partitular,  from  that  excelleht  one  nt^w  opetied  bettvcctt 
Perth  and  Crieff,  and  which  is  intended  to  be  carried  for- 
ward to  Stirling.  There  are  alfo  fomc  bthfer  roads  in  con- 
templation. Great  honour  is  due  to  the  public  fpirit  and 
a£tivity  of  thofc  Gentlemen,  in  this  and  the  neighbouring 
pariihesj  for  the  attempts  they  are  at  prefenit  making  to  dif* 
cover  coal  in  this  part  of  the  country.  We  hope,  by  perfc- 
verancej  thefe  attempts  will  at  laft  be  crowned  with  fucccfs* 


%\iz  NUMBER. 


26o  Statijlical  Account 

NUMBER    XV. 

PARISH   OF    DALGETY, 

(Presbttert  ov  Dunfermline,  Synod  of  Fife,  County  of 

Fife.)  , 

By  the  Rev.  Mr  Peter  Primrose. 


Situation  and  Extent, 

H^  panQi  of.  D^lgety  is  fituated  in  th^  county  of  Ftfe» 
and  in  the  pre%tery  of  DunferiQline.  It  is  bounded  by  the 
paiUb  of  Aberdour  on  the  Eaft  and  North,  by  Inverkeithing 
on  the  Wcftt  A"d  W  A  ^^  P^vt  of  the  parifii  of  Dunferm- 
line on  the  North  Weft :  On  the  Souths  it  is  hounded  by  the 
Frith  of  Forth,  along  which  it  extends  in  a  ftraight  line  about 
three  miles ;  bat  as  the  eoaft  in  this  place  is  interfe£led  by 
many  bays,  its  circuitous  extent  is  conCderahly  more*  It  is 
of  an  irregular  form,  but  approaches  neareft  to  tlie  triangu- 
lar, being  about  four  miles^long  from  South  to  North,  but  its 
breadth  gradually  diminiihes  towar^is  the  Norths  and  in  fome 
places  it  fcarcely  exceeds  half-aomile^ 

Sfi/,  Surface^  and  Produce. — The*  fi)il  is  various.     In  fome 
places  it  confifts  of  a  light  loam^  and  is  dry  \  but  the  greater 

part 


ofDalgetx.  o&t 

part  of  the  parUh  co^fifts  of  a  deep  ftrong  loan),  mixed  ^^fi^ 
clay,  naturally  wet  and  ftiff,  but  productive  in  general  of  fer- 
tile crops.  Tbe  ground,  in  moft  places,  rifes  conri^crably  a- 
bove  the  level  of  the  coaft ;  but  there  ajrc  few  hilb  in  thepa- 
ri(b,  and  thefe  are  njcitber  higb»  nor  much  covered  witk 
rocks.  The  furface  in  fome  places  i^  covered  with  besth^ 
and  a  few  lit^e  hiOs  with  furze :  there  are  aUb  fome  fipali 
mofles  and  f^^mpy  grounds  but  the  fpace  which  thefe 
occupy  is  of  fo  little  extent,  that  t)Lere«  i^  not  above  a 
fixth  part  of  the  pariih  which  13  not  arable.  The  principali 
crop^  raifed  in  the  p^rifli  are  wheat,  barley,  oati,  peafe^  and 
beans.  Potatoes  too  are  cultivated  in  coniiderable  quantitje^^ 
and,  in  fome  places,  partly  ufed  for  feeding  cattle.  *Tufnip9. 
are  alio  raifed  for  this  purpofe,  and  grow  to  ^  copfideirable 
fize  \  but,  on  account  of  the  wetnefs  of  the  fuxface»  and  the 
injury  which  tlie  laxul  might  fuftain  in  winter,  by  being  cut 
with  horfes  and  carta  when  they  ^re  carried  off,  they  are  not 
generally  ufed.  Tares  are  fometimes  fown,  and  produi^  a- 
bundant  crops :  Flax  is  feldom  raifed  but  fpr  private  nfe«"  A. 
great  part  of  the  pariih  confiits  of  grafs  grounds,  which  have 
been  laid  down  in  good  order,  and,  when  let  to  graziers,  yieU* 
confiderafale  rents.  From  ibme  inclofures,  a  proprietor  ha» 
been  known  to  draw  al.  55.  per  a^re ;  but  the  average  rent  of 
the  land  in  grafs  may  he  from  il.  53.  to  il.  los.  annually, 
per  acre.  A  confiderablc  number  of  blackrcattle,  and  about 
9Q0  Ihccp,  arc  ufually  grazed  in  the  pariih. 

Prices  tf  Grain  and  Provi/sofu.'-^Thc  price  of  wheat  and 
barley  is  frequently  regulated  by  the. iiars  of  Mid  Lp^hian. 
Some  farmers  get  the.  higheft  fiars  for  their  grain,  and  othera\ 
in  the  Northern  part  of  the  pariih,  where  the  land  is  ufually 
of  an  inferior  quality,  fell  fomewhat  lower.  Few  oats  aire 
ibid  in  the  pariih^  ^nd  the  price  of  oat  meal  is  generg%  thc; 

fame 


26^  Statyiical  Account 

fikmc  with  tliat  of  the  Edinburgh  market.  Though  the  nuhi- 
)xv  of  inhabitants  13  nbt  large  in  proportion  to  the  extent  of 
the  parifli,  yet,  on  account  of  the  great  quantity  of  land  in 
gnfsy  befides  what  is  allotted  to  the  produ£Kon  of  other  crops> 
the  oats  raifed  in  the  parifli  are  far  from  being  fuf&cient 
t»  fupply  the  confumption  of  meal.     The  average  price  of 
beef,  mutton,  and  Teal,  is  4d.  the  pound,  Dutch  weight.  The 
price  of  a  hen  is  from  isi  to  ts.  3d;  aiid  chickens  are  fold 
from  8d.  to  lod.  the  pair.    Butter  is  ufually  at  pd*  the  pound 
Tron  weight.  *Cheefe  varies  according  to  its  quality  ;  biit  the 
ordinary  kind  is  3d.  the  pound.     Eggs  are  fold  at  4d.  and  iti 
the  feafon  of  fcarcity,  at  6d.  the  dozert.     During  thcfe  two 
laft  winters^  herrings  have  been  caught  in  great  jjlcnty  upon 
this  coaft,  and  the  fifliermen  ate  encouraged  td  bring  ver^ 
confiderable  quantities  of  theiti  to  St  Darid'sj  a  harbour  in 
the  parifh^  both  for  the  purpofe  of  curing,  and  of  fupplying 
the  people  in  the  neighbourhood.  They  proVe  a  vei7  benefi- 
cial article  of  food  to  this  part  of  the  country,  and  are  fold 
at  an  eafy  rate,  being  frequently  at  6d.  the  hundred  of  fix 
fcore.     It  is  thought  by  many,  that  flioals  6i  herrings  have^ 
for  a  long  time  pad,  come  into  this  Frith  in  winter,  without 
being  generally  difcoveted  or  looked  after  ;    i^hether  they 
were  in  fuch  great  quantities  as  they  have  been  thefe  two' 
yelirs,    it   is  impoffible  to  afcertain  :   but  a  fiflierman  in 
the  neighbourhood^  has,  for  many  years,  caught  fome  dur- 
ing the  fpring  feafon^  in  a  net  little  accommodated  for  the 
purpofe,  from  the  widencfs  of  its  intcrftxces,  and  which 
he  had  fpread  out  near  the  coaft,  where  there  were  ri^ns  of 
frcfli  water,  in  order  to  catch  falmon  trouts.     It  is  therefore 
much  to  be  wiflied^  that  fiftietmen  would  be  diligent  in 
fearching  the  Frith  occafionally  every  winter,  to  difcoVer  if 
there  arc  any  herrings  in  it,  and  upon  what  part  of  the  coaff 
they  prmcipaliy  lie,  that  they  may  lofe  no  opportunity  of  be- 
ing 


ing  employed  in  a  fiOier y  at  once  fo  profitable  to  themfelvesy 
and  fo  beneficial  to  the  community.  Perhaps  the  ofier  of  ^ 
{landing  premium  or  bounty  to  the  crews  of  the  firft  boatSs 
who  (hall,  afi^er  a  particular  feafon  every  year,  carry  a  cey- 
tain  quantity  caught  in  the  Fritli  to  the  Edinburgh  market, 
might  prove  an  ufeful  incentive  to  their  diligence  in  this  le^ 
fpeft,  '  X 

Number  of  ProprictorSjf  Tenants^  Amount  of  Rtni^  55*^-^The|j: 
are  three  proprietors  who  pofiefs  all  the  land  in  the  pari(hj 
and  have  houfes  in  It,  where  fome  of  them  ufually,  and  o- 
thers  of  th^m  occafionally,  refide,  viz.  the  Earl  of  Moray  at 
Donibriftle,  Sir  John  Henderfon  at  Eordel,  and  Dr  Robert 
Moubray  at  Co<;kairny.  The  two  firft  of  thefc  retain  in  their 
own  hands  a  9onriderable  part  of  their  eftates  in  the  pariih| 
and  they  Jiave  of  late  highly  improved  their  grounds,  and  j^- 
dorned  them  with  thriving  plantations.  The  farm  Cockair- 
ny  is  th^  laTgcft  that  is  let  in  the  parilb  \  and  there  are  ele* 
yen  others  of  f mailer  ej^tent.  The  are  about  190  inhabit£4 
houfes  in  the  pariQi,  of  \vhich  o^ly  i  x  are  feus,  U^e  rf Q: 
belonging  to  the  proprietors ;  ^d  by  far  the  greateft  number 
to  Sir  John  Henderfon^  for  the  acconunodation  of  the  peo« 
pie  employed  in  ^^orking  his  coal.  As  a  gr,eat  part  of  4he 
land  in  the  pari(h  is  not  at  preient  let»  the  real  rent  cannot 
be  afcertaine4  ;.but  iU  annual  value,  it  is  fuppofed,  would  v 
mount  to  2,cool.  Streling,  or  upwards.  The  valued  rent,  ^ 
^ated  in  the  cefs*rpll,  amounts,  according  to  the  old  valuat^oni 
to  5394!*  Scots» 

Populatiofi.^n  1755  the  numbers  were  rated  at  761.  By 
an  enumeration  lately  made,  there  were  869  perfons  in  th^ 
parilb,  of  whom  there  were 

Under 


3&(  Stat^iU  AuouHt 

Between    lo    and    lo  X6j 

Above        20    unmarried  1 80 

Married  pcrfons  276 

'WrdowcfB  or  widows  4^ 

Number  of  fouk  in  1755        761 

Increafe  '  icS 

'Tliere  are  no  particular  inflances  of  longevity  in  the  parifh 
at  prefeiit.  A  few  of  the  oldeft  inhabitants  may  be  about 
80  years  of  age,  and  fome  have  lately  died,  who  were  fup- 
pofcd  to  be  upwards  of  go*  In  the  year  1770,  James  Spital 
Efq;  of  Lcuchart  died  in  this  parifli,  reported  by  fome  to  have 
'  arrived  at  the  age  of  f  02  :  lie  had  been  in  the  Scotch  Parlia- 
ment; and,  for  a  confiderable  tirnc  before  his  death,  was 
fuppofcd  to  be  the  only  furviving  member. 

Climate  and  Diseases, — In  the  lower  part  of  the  parHh^ 
which  id  upon  the  coaft,  it  is  confldetably  warmef  and  intld* 
er  than  in  the  upper,  and  the  difffeJrente  is  very  perceptible 
wh^n  the  wind  blows  from  any  northern  dire&ion  ;  but  duf- 
Iftg  the  Eafterly  vlrind^^  which  particularly  prcTail  in  the  fpting 
feafon,  it  is  (harp  and  cold,  almoft  oir^r  the  whole  parifii. 
The  air  however  is  generally  dry,  and,  dtrriilg  the  continu- 
ance of  the  £aft  wind,  is  ufusilly  mote  free  frorti  fogs  or  damp 
than  the  fhore  on  the  oppofite  (tde.  There  ate  do  dtftafea 
•that  can  be  faid  to  be  peculiar  to  the  inhabitants,  or  thiit  pre-» 
Tail  here  more  than  in  the  neighbouring  parlfhcs.  I  hiivc 
obferved  indeed  a  few  more  inftances  of  rheumatifm,  and  o- 
ther  complaints  ariGng  from  cold,  among  the  collieTSj^  than  a« 
mong  the  other  parifhioners,  but  thcfe  are  to  be  attributed, 
not  fo  much  to  the  climate,  as  to  the  damp  fituaCions  in 
which  they  have  fome  times  to  work.     An  epidemical  dif- 

temper 


ittaiper^  winch  madt  ks  fit  ft  ai$peftratice  in  (he  vIlBige  of  A- 
heriaur  in  fummeT  1790,  and  created  no  fmall  alaxctii  got  in- 
to this  ptxltti  in  the  autunin>  stnd  two  tt  three  people  died 
^  it ;  but  as  the  weather  ttlnied  bokleir,  it  became  lefs  Altai 
and  ii)feCtio«i^>  and  in  the  winter  it  altogether  abated.  The 
ihiall-pox  fom^times  makers  great  ratagei  \  and  it  it  to  be  la- 
mented, that  the  prejudices  againft  inocuidnri&n  are  fo  ftrohg 
-among  the  generality  bf  peopte  in  this  patt  of  the  eountry^ 
that  noperfiiaiion  can  reitioVe  theih  i  nor  tzti  the  evident  in« 
ftanccs  of  its  falutaty  efie£is^  often  exiubited  by  the  medical 
gentleiiien  iii  this  quarteri  reconcile  them  to  the  praQiccj  e* 
ten  when  the  difeafe  is  gathering  gtound^  and  provti^  t cry 
fatal  in  the  natural  way. 

Language  and  Eimohgy  of  Names.^^-n^  language  com- 
monly fpoken  in  the  parifh  is  the  Old  Scotch  diale£t»  and 
thete  feetti  to  be  no  peculiar  words  or  phrafes  which  are  not 
in  general  nfe  throughout  ihoR  parts  of  the  kihgdoin.  Hie 
words  ate  pronounced  with  a  broad  accent ;  atid  I  have  ofteti 
h^ard  in  this  part  of  the  countty  a  found  given  to  the  diph- 
thong 01,  whidi  is  not^  I  believe,  fo  nfual  in  other  places :  it 
is  freqn^tltly  pronounced  as  if  it  confifted  of  the  letters  on, 
as  for  hill  boil,  pount  A>r  point,  vouce  for  voice,  &c.  Many 
of  the  nafti6s  of  places  are  derived  fibm  the  fehglifhj  atid  are 
exprelllve  of  their  particular  or  relative  fituations^  as  Hlllanfl, 
SeafieM^  Bahkhead,  broomfide,  Boghead,  Gr0fsgat^»  tkc.  O- 
Atts  are  pfdbably  derived  froth  the  Ga^lic^  and  denote  gireat- 
eir  iintiqttity  in  regard  to  their  name8>  as  Dotiibriftle,  Fotdel^ 
Cockaitny,  Lethem,  &c« 

CharaSer  of  the  Peo^e.^^Tht  people  are  in  general  fober 
and  itiduftrious  i  ahd,  with  a  few  exceptions,  regular  in  at-r 
tending,  and  paying  r^fpeft  to  th€  public  inftitutions  of  re- 

Vol,.  XV.  LI  lig5oi\r 


966  Staii/lical  Account 

Itgion.  Though)  in  regard  to  the  doftrioefr  of  Chriftiahtty« 
many  of  them,  as  in  other  places,  are  yet  perhaps  top  foo^ 
.of  hearing  ipecplatiye  propoHtiond)  and  abilradl  reafoning  ; 
tbey  alfo.  lifter^  with  attention  to  difcpurfcs  ^yh^ch  reprefent 
rellgioa  as  a. moral  fciencei  whofe  doflrin^s  and  precepts  are. 
all  calculated  for  the  improvement  of  the  charaftcr.  It  is 
pleafing  tpobierye  that  the  coIljer^>  who  compofe  a  con^der- 
,able  part  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  p^^rilh,  and  who^  in  form- 
.^r  times,  were  kfs  enlightened  ^nd  civilized,  have,  for  a  lonj* 
while,  been  making  progrefs  in  religious  knowledge  ;^nd  mo- 
ral improvepient ;  and  fo  attentive  a^e  they  to  give  education 
to  their  childjrcn,  a  duty  formerly  among  this  clafs  of  people; 
too  much  neglefted,  that  for  many  years  they  hav.e  mantain- 
ed  a  teacher  by  fubfcription,  as  they  are  at  a  great  diftance 
from  the  parpchial  fchqol. 

EccUftaJiical  State  of  the  Par'i/h. — ^Ther.e  i^  oo  church  bi|t 
the  eftabliflied  one  in  the  pariih.  The  Seccders  who  refidc 
in  it  are  moflly  Burghers,  apd  attend  a  meeting  houfe  in  In- 
vcikeithing.  The  chufcb  is  an  old  buildinj:^,  very  much  out 
of  repair,  and  not  well  adapted,  cither  in  refpeft  of  cpnilruc- 
lion  or  fituation,  as  a  place  pf  worfhip  for  the  pari(h  \  the 
iituation  is  peculiarly  inconvenient,  being  upon  the  coift,  and 
the  moft  populous  part  of  the  parifli  almoft  at  the  other  c:r- 
tremi^y.  The  manfe  is  about  a  qi^aiter  of  a  <nile  Weft  from 
the  church :  it  is  alfo  an  old  hpufe,  but  there  is  a  profpeft 
that  another  one  will  foon  be  built.  The  following  is  a  lift 
of  the  miiiifteKS  of  this  pari^i,  as  far  back  as  the  Seffion  re- 
cords give  information-  Mr  Andrew  Donaldfon  was  fettlgd 
in  1644.  Upon  the  introduftion  of  Epifcopacy  into  this 
country,  he  was  obliged  to  retire,  and  Mr  John  Corfar  was 
fettled  in  1669 ;  Mt  John  Lumfdaine  in  1680,  and  Mr  George 
Gray  in  1637.,  After  the  Revo)ition,  Mr  Donaldfon,  though 


of  Dalget^.  267 

"six  an  ddvanced  age,  was  Called  to  refume  his  paftoral  chargei 
and  continued  to  officiate  as  minifter  here  till  the  time  of  bis 
death.  It  is  reported^  that  during  the  time  he  >vlis  laid  afide^ 
which  might  be  about  twenty  years,  he  lived  in  a  building  on 
the  Weft  end  of  thpe  church,  which  is  now  partly  ufed  as  a 
feffion  room,  fupported  by  prefents  from  the  pari(hioner8> 
and  undifturbed  by  the  abote  mencioped  Epifcopal  clergy- 
men, which  does  credit  to  the  fteady  attachment  of  the  form-, 
er^  and  to  the  liberality  and  forbearing  fpirit  of  the  latter^  iti 
thofe  times  of  intolerance  and  pcrfecution.  Mr  Archibald 
Campbell  was  ibttled  iii  \6g6\  Mr  William  Henderfon  in 
1717 ;  Mr  James  Bathgate  in  173-8 ;  Mr  John  Hoyes  in  1778 ; 
and,  upon  his  tranflation  to  anothef  parifli,  the  prcfeHt.incum-. 
bent  was: fettled,  in  1787.  The  ftipend,  by  a  decreet  grant- 
ed in  the  year  1650,  confifted  of  67  boils,  a  firlotsi  3  pecks> 
and  I  lippie  of  grain,  and  37I;  6s.  5^d.  Sterling.'  By  ari 
augmentation  lately  obtained^  the  s  ftipend  is  now  raifed  to 
115  bolls,  2  firlots,  3  pecks,  and  f  lippie  of  grain,  and  42I. 
68.  5T^d.  Sterling.  The  glebe  cdnfifts  of  about  12  acres. 
Tlic  Earl  of  Moray  is  patron.  There  are  two  fchools  in  the 
parilh,  one  eftablifhed  and  provided  with  a  falary^  the  other, 
as  formerly  obfervedj  maintained  by  fubfcription.  With  re- 
fpe£t  to  the  parochial  fchool,  the  falary,  as  in  moft  other 
places,  is  too  fmall,  being  fomewhat  below  7I.  There  is  in- 
deed a  profpeft  of  its  being  a  little  increafed  here,  from  a  vo- 
luntary offer  lately  made ;  but  there  is  much  need  of  a  ge- 
neral increafc,  riot  only  in  humanity,  anrfit  may  be  faid  jut 
tice^to  fuch  as  arc  engaged  in  the  praftice  of  teaching,  but 
for  the  fake  of  thofe  who  are  to  be  benefited  by  their  iriftruc- 
tions.  It  rhuft  be  admitted,  that  die  defire  of  acquiring  in-i 
independence  and  fame  Operates  chiefly  on  the  minds  of  men 
in  regard  to  the  choice  of  their  purfuits  in  lifb  \  and  in  the 
hnproved  and  improving  ftate  of  things  in  this  country^ 

where 


268  Statiflkatl  Account 

where  fa  many  patlie  lif  open  to  tbefe  by  feltowing  the  Ta« 
rious  arts,  it  is  eafy  to  forefee,  that)  whUe  tha  piroiifioii  «&• 
letted  to  ftK'h  aft  ufeful  €la&  of  men  a9  fchootmafters,  k  in 
genera]  fo  fmall,  and  inadequate  to  die  purpofes  of  a  decent 
matntainance,  few  perfons  of  libei^  education,  andpoiei&d 
of  that  fpirit  which  a  mind  enlatged  wkh  {cnowtedge  hat  ai 
tendency  to  inspire,  wilt  torn  their  views  to  a  pvofeffioa  thai 
may  reduce  them  to  (traits,  and  of  courfe  fink  them  iato  con^^i 
tempt.  The  difficulty  of  ebnihiing  proper  teacfaevs  in  cotti|t'< 
ry  (chools  begins  already  to  be  fek )  and  it  is  mMch  to  be  feaiw 
ed  thai>  learning  will  foon  come  to  decline,  if  eocourageinesit 
be  not  given  to  fit  perfons  to  difiufe  and  pvomote  its  growth* 
Many  who  at.  prefent  fubmit  ta  this  lahoiionB  taik,  eaimol 
earn  more  than  a  daily  labourer  ^  and  m^uft  iMt  thenfingge- 
neratioil  and  pofteriey  fuffer  fai  an  educa|ion  oondudtod  b]r 
^fc,  who  may  hereaftisr  turn  dieir  thoaghts  to  fi|ch  an  un* 
gainful  profeffion  i  Ignorance,,  among  the  balk  of  the  peopk» 
would  certainly  be  attended  with  the  morfl  pesnicbus  eSt&t^ 
and  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  all  who  are  inlcrcfted  In  the  ho-, 
nour  and  welfaf  e  of  their  country,  will  have  difcejoment  to 
ferefee,  and  patriotifm  to  guard  againft,  focb  an  evil  before  it 
comes  to  any  alarming  height:  and  what  can  confii;»butc 
more  fuccefsfuUy  to  this  beneficial  purpofe,  ijiaa  to  encQi|« 
rage  the  diffuGon  of  knowledge  by  competent  rewards  I 

.  &fate  of  the  Pio^r.^^There  have  been  ufuaUy,  ojf  kte^  to  or 
12  perfons  upoa  the  poors  rc^,  who  receive  aid  from  the 
weekly  coUc^ions,  and  from  the  iotereft  of  ij^oU  arlGng 
from  legacies  appropriated  for  their  fupport.  In  the  yeai( 
1783,  the  heritors  and  feflioa  bought  69  bolis  of  oattn^stU 
part  of  which  was  given  to  families  in  indigent  circuoi&an- 
cesf  and  the  reft  fold  to  othera  that  were  l^i^  n^dyf  9t  re* 

dttced 


d«ec4  prkl^B  wW^h  cwWrlbwM  bW^  to,  t|>^  ^\iei  (rf  ^e 
pwfiih,  duwig  tb^  fwi:ity  vbi^h  then  pceyail^ 

fiuvc^d^  ?xiqi4<  alf^g  t^e  Forth  aho^l;  ^hve^  miles}  aq4  ^ 
l)9jj^  axi<  iq  ipaqf  plfVC^^  ipl^iqa^ifvillf  &ut^  Willi  tree^ 
aad  4»^^cd  ^it)i  fuctir  a,  v;^iety^  of  Bfofpe£iS|  both  of  na? 
ti«r«  ^  vt,  s^  pwftut  flf^aay  fpfipfcs  tr^^J  piQ^rclquc  ^I^A 
fi\I^Umet    Tl^esc  i^  ?lfa  a  fa>all  Iq^K  ^  ptter(lQ^»  abo«t  3^ 

ijl}r^4  i  W  it«  J^^nl^ft  fta»d  thv^P  gcptknvcn'si  Iwft^  t^P  0^ 
^l^g]^  ^1^  itm  iaH^u^  I  s^(|  if  U  lo  furcomi4ed  yitk  riQni^ 
gTO^zid  i^i^  ti(^$,.  ^Si  ^  fumUli  a  pleaftng  oainiature  j(cei:^« 
Tb«fi  ar€i  fpH?  ftmigwUkf  in  tHfi  pariQ),  ^pd  pqiuff ripng  t^jicfi? 
wbich  ^^[p^  fngh  aa  Ui«  vama^  of  w^iat  i^  f^BB^^^^  ^^  ^^y^ 
fytcn  a  ^;»9>j^i  ^  DifKidical  (f^pki  ^^4  9n<^  P^  ^^  '^^^ 
commonly  9%})^  ;^  ^^^4hg  ^f¥%  ^1^$  ^  PP  copfiftept  tj^m 
dition,  nor  certain  account.  The  houfe  of  Donibriftle  was 
formerly  the  refidence  of  the  Abbot  of  St  Combe,  but  it  has 
(ince  been  greatly  enlarged  and  improyed.  OppoGte  to  the 
eaftern  extremity  of  the  parilli,  and  within  a  mile  of  the  fliore, 
is  the  ifland  of  St  Combe,  the  defcription  of  which,  and  of 
the  monaftery  upon  it,  have  been  given  in  the  Statidical  Ac« 
couut  of  the  pari(h  of  Abcrdour.  The  Eail  of  Dunfermline's 
feat  formerly  flood  at  a  little  diftance  from  the  churcliof  Dal- 
gety,  but  little  of  it  nov/  remains.  The  church  itfelf  is  a  very 
ancient  building.  The  exad  period  of  its  ere£lion  cannot  be 
afcertained  \  but  there  are  documents  which  (how  tliat  a 
grant  of  the  ground  on  which  it  (lands,  was  made  to  the 
Abbot  of  St  Combe,  as  far  back  as  the  14th  century,  Ad*- 
ditions  however  have  been  made  to  it,  which  bear  ^he  marks 
of  a  later  date. 


%'jo  Statijlical  Account 

Srtfrff.— -There  is  no  particular  branch  of  trade  in  the  pa- 
rifb^  except  what  arifes  from  the  coal  and  fait  works,  carried 
on  to  a  confiderahle  extent  on  the  property  of  Sir  John  Hen- 
derfon.  The  various  branches  of  thefe  works  afibrd  main- 
tenance to  feveral  hundred  people  of  one  defcription  or  o« 
ther.  The  greateft  part  of  the  coal  and  fait  is  exported  from 
St  Davids,  a  fpacious  harbour  fituated  at  the  Weftem  ex- 
tremity of  the  parilh  in  Inverkeithing  bay,  where  veflcls  of  a- 
ny  burthen,- not  exceeding  500  or  600  tons,  can  load  in  &fety. 
The  diftance  from  the  pits  to  the  (hore  is  near  4  miles,  a- 
long  which  the  coals  are  carried  in  waggons  that  contain  48 
cwt.  It-  is  well  afcertained,  that  this  coal  has  been  known 
and  wrought  for  upwards  of  200  years,  and  a  confiderable 
field  of  it  ftill  remains.  The  furrounding  diftitfl:,  lying  in 
the  pariflies  of  Dunfermline  and  Aberdour,  contdins  alfo  ma- 
ny feams  of  coal  of  an  excellent  quaUty,  fufficient  ic  is  thought^ 
to  fupply  the  ufual  demand  for  centuries  to  come.  . 


NUMBER 


efBaldernock,  «7i 

NUMBER   XVI. 
PARISH  OF  BALI)ERNOC*K. 


(Presbytery  of  Dunbarton,  County  of  Stirling,  St^ 
NOD  OF  Glasgow  and  Ayr.) 


By  the  Rev.  Mr.  James  Cooper,  Mini/ten 


Name, 


I 


N  the  beginning  of  the  reign  of  Alexander  the  II.  the 
lands  of  Cartonbenach  were  conveyed  to  Maurice  Galbraith 
by  charter  from  Malduin  Earl  of  Lennox-  Soon  after,  in 
the  year  1238,  we  find  the  fame  barony  granted  by  a  new 
charter,  under  the  name  of  Bathernock,  to  Arthur  fon  of 
Maurice  Galbraith,  with  power  tq  feize  and  condemn  male- 
fa£lors,  on  condition  that  the  convi£ls  (hould  be  hanged  on 
the  Earl's  gallows.  From  the  Galbraiths  of  Bathernoclci 
chiefs  of  the  name,  defcended  the  Galbraiths  of  Culcruich, 
Greenock,  Killeam,  and  Balgair,  which  eftates  have  all,  ex- 
cept the  laft,  pafTed,  by  females,  long  ago  into  families  of  o« 
iher  names.  The  family  of  Bathernock  ended  alfo  in  an 
heirefs,  and  the  eftate,  about  the  beginning  of  the  14th  cen- 
tury, paired  by  marriage  to  David,  fon  of  Lord  Hamilton, 

and 


17^  Si^^h^i  Actpunt 

and  anceftor  of  the  prefent  John  Hamilton,  Efq;  of  Bar* 
dowie.  From  that  time,  the  proprietor  of  the  barony  ap- 
pears to  have  t^ken  the  title  of  featdowie  ;  and  the  title  of 
Bathernock  (new  written  Baldernock,)  dropped  by  the  fami- 
)y,  was  probably  revived  and  perpetuated  by  bellowing  it  on 
,the  pariih,  when  it  came  to  be  ereftcd.  But  wheft  that 
creftion  took  place,  or  when  the  name  Bathernock  came  to 
be  written  Baldernock,  as  at  prefent,  is  uncertain.  If  a  con- 
jefture  may  be  hazarded  with  refpcfk  to  the  name,  we  (bould 
rather  fuppofe,  that  Baldernock  was  not  a  new  name,  but 
the  original  one  revived,  of  which  Bathernock  was  a  corrup- 
tion ',  and  that  Baldernock  is  alfo  a  corruption  of  Baldsuin^ 
ich,  (/.  f.  Druidftown)  it  being  highly  probable,  that  this  was 
a  Druidical  place  of  worfhipi  as  will  appear  from  a  remark- 
able monument  of  Druidifm  to  be  mentioned  afterwards. 

Siluation  and  Surface, — It  it  is  fituated  within  the  county 
Stirling,  in  the  presbytery  of  Dunbarton,  and  fynod  of  Glaf- 
and  Ayr.  The  furface  is  various.  On  the  South,  where  it 
is  bounded  by  the  river  Kelvin,  there  are  fix  or  feven  hun- 
dred acres  of  rich  flat  land.  The  inundations  of  this  river 
frequently  blafted  the  hopes  of  the  husbandman,  by  dan*, 
maging,  or  fweeping  away  his  luxuriant  aops.  To  prevent 
fuch  difafters,  the  proprietors,  about  16  or  id  year^ago,  united 
in  raiSng  a  bank  upon  the  brink  of  the  river :  hut  there  are 
icafons  ftiil,  when  it  breaks  over^  or  burfts  throttgh  its  bar- 
riers, to  refume  for  a  little  its  former  defolating  fway.  From 
South  to  North  there  is  a  gradual  afcent,  pleafaxxtly  dtverfi- 
fied  by  round  fwelling  hills.  The  8at  ground,  before  meiv* 
tioned,  is  a  rich  loam ;  the  rifing  grounds  towards  the  Eaft, 
are  a  clayey  foil  over  tiH  \  and  thofe  towards  the  Weft,  a 
^  light  fharp  foil  over  whin  rock.  On  the  North  fide  tfaete 
k  fome  moorilh  ground^  l)ut  the  greater  part  of  the  pari(h  va 

arable* 


i>f  Baidetriock.  15^3 

arable.  *f  oWards  the  South  Weft  lyes  Bardowk  Loch,  cov- 
lering  about  70  acres.  In  it  are  plenty  of  pike  and  perch,  of 
a  good  fize  and  quality.  The  banks  are  pleafant,  upon  which 
Is  fituated  the  houfe  of  Bardowie,  within  a  few  paces  of  the 
lake. 


Climate  and  Difeajts.-^Th&  air,  on  the  high  groiinds  cfpe- 
tially,  is  ext^remely  falubrious,  and  the  inhabitants  healthy. 
There  are  no  difeaifes  unconimon,  or  peculiar  to  the  place^ 
nor  any,  for  a  long  time  pail,  that  could  be  called  epidemi- 
cal, unlefs  we  (hould  rank  flow  fevers  xinder  this  clafs*  They 
make  their  appearance  fometimes  in  the  fpring,  but  more  fre- 
)quently  in  the  autumn,  and  fptead  through  whole  families^ 
and  from  family  to  family.  This  is  obferved  lo  happen  chief- 
ly imong  thofc  whofe  houfes  are  fmall,  dirty^  and  not  pro- 
perly ventilated.  It  is  to  be  regretted  that  the  abfurd,  and 
not  altogether  innocent  pradiice,  of  expofing  themfelves  and 
their  families,  by  unneceiTary  vifits  t^  thofe  who  have  beeii 
feized  with  this  infeftious  difeafe,  but  too  much  prevails. 
And  it  is  alfo  a  fubjctl  of  juft  regret,  that  the  prejudice  a- 
gatnil  innocttlation  of  the  fmalUpox  ftill  keeps  hold  of  thfe 
minds  of  many  iri  this  part  of  the  conntry.  The  p<Jot  child- 
ren aire  thereby  expofed  to  the  danger  of  that  difeafe  in  Inrhat 
they  call  the  natural  Way  *,  but  the  iiinoculation  is  iequall^ 
well  entitled  to  be  called  the  natural  \^ay.  The  one  way 
dif&rs  ifrom  the  other  in  this  only,  that,  by  the  innoculationj 
the  infeftibn  is,  by  the  tender  ahd  prudent  care  of  the  pa- 
tents, communicated  in  that  way  which,  by  long  eJcpcriencCi 
has  been  fbund  rtioft  fafe  and  €afy  \  whereas,  without  the  ino- 
bulation^  the  infeftion  is,  by  carelefs  and  fuperftitious  parents^ 
left  to  be  corhmuriicated  from  their  own  cloaths  after  vifiting 
children  Under  the  diferfe,  br  by  accidental  intercourfe  of 
ihcir  children  with  perfons  who  have  the  infeftioti  about  their 

Vol.  XV.  Mm  doathti 


274  Statijlical  Account 

cloathsi  In  that  way  which  experience  (hows  to  be  mod  fevere 
and  fatal. 

Population^  &c. — In  the  month  of  April  1 794,  the  number 
of  families  was  137,  of  pcrfons  620,  of  whom  there  are, 
Under      xo    yean  of  tge  136 

Between  10  and  20  Z33 

■  >     ao  and  jo         24s 

■  ■  '■  50  and  70  98 

■  '     70  and  85  XI 

Total  6ao 
There  are  at  prefent  in  this  parilh  no  inftanccs  of  remarkable 
longevity. 

Bachelors  from  20  to  40  4^ 

I'                —  40  to  60  7 

■      ■           above  60  % 

Widowers  from  20  to  60  o 

— — —  Upwards  of  60  10 

Yearly  average  of  baptiims  iS 

■■■               "  ■'■  —  Marriages  6 

Occupations r-^ht  greater  part  of  the  inhabitants  of  this 
f  ariQi  devote  their  time  to  that  moft  innocent  and  mod  ufe-* 
ful  of  fecular  employments^  the  cultivation  of  the  earth. 
There  are  45  farmers,  including  12  feuars,  who  cultivate 
their  own  grounds ;  36  labourers,  43  male  fervants,  all  la« 
bourersj  38  female  fcrvants,  almoft  all  labourers,  10  weavers 
of  houfehold  cloth,  i  taylor,  3  (hoe-makers,  3  mafons,  3  car- 
penters, 2  millers,  2  gardeners,  2  fmiths,  i  engraver,  i  flax- 
dreffer,  4  miners,  and  one  man  who  exercifes  the  feveral  oc- 
cupations, of  weaver,  conftable,  phy&cian,  furgeon,  apothe- 
cary, and  man- midwife. 

CharaHer. — ^The  people  are,  In  general,  remarkable  for 
a  fober  and  regular  deportment ;  an  advantage,  in  a  great 

meafuie^ 


of  Baldernock.  275 

fneafure,  to  be  afcribed  to  their  occupation,  and  to  want  of 
manufaftures,  whofe  boaded  benefits  make  but  a  poor  com* 
penfatioh  for  their  baneful  influence  on  the  morals  of  the 
people. 

Rent  of  the  Parijb. — ^Thc  valuation  of  the  parifli  is  1744I. 
Scots.  It  is  not  eafy  to  afcertain  the  real  rent,  becaufe  a 
fiumber  of  the  proprietors  cultivate  their  own  ground  ;  but 
it  is  fuppofed  that  it  will  not  be  over-rated  at  3000I.  Ster- 
ling. Arable  land  is  rented  from  los.  to  2I.  per  acre  :  and 
befides  their  rent  to  the  landlord,  the  tenants  are  generally 
bound  by  dicir  tacks  to  pay  all  the  public  burdens  upon  the 
lands  they  poiTefs.  Moft  of  their  farms  are  alfo  thirled  to 
a  particular  mill,  and  pay,  fome  of  them  fo  high  as  the  i6th 
or  1 7th  part  of  all  the  grain  which  they  have  occafion  to 
grind  ;  a  difcouragcmenc  to  induftry  now  altogether  unnc- 
ceflary,  and  which  every  landholder,  who  wi flies  to  advance 
the  value  of  his  property,  by  encouraging  the  induftry  of  his 
tenants,  ought  if  pof&ble  to  remove, 

M§de  of  Cultivation. — ^The  farms  are  in  general  fmall,  in- 
clofed  and  fubdivided  j  and  the  prcfent  race  of  farmers  are 
fuppofed  to  furpafs  their  fathers  in  (kill  and  induftry.  Clear- 
ing the  ground  of  ftones,  draining,  levelling  the  ine<^ua]ities 
of  the  furface,  ftraighcening  the  ridges,  laying  on  lime,  and 
guarding  againft  the  common  miftake  of  overcropping,  may 
be  cfteemed  the  chief  improvements.  The  Scotch  plough, 
drawn  by  3,  and  fometimes  by  4  horfes,is  that  in  moft  com- 
mon ufe.  Oats  and  barley  are  the  kinds  of  grain  chiefly  cultiva- 
ted. The  plough  goes  little  before  the  beginning  of  March  \ 
^nd  the  farmers  feem  not  anxious  to  have  the  fowing  of  oats  fi- 
fiiftied  before  the  end  of  April,  and  the  barley  before  the  20th 
qf  May.     After  liming  their  ground,  they  generally  take  two 

M  m  2  cropil 


iJ76.  S^tatijlical  Accaunt^ 

crops  of  oat$,  and  one  of  barley.  With  the  barky,  rye- grafr 
and  clover  are  fown,  of  whicji  hay  is  made  in  the  enfuing 
fummcr,  and  fometimes  for  two  fummerfi*  They  afterwards 
pafture  for  two  or  more  years,  as  they  judge  requifite  to, 
give  the  ground  'a  fufficient  reft,  before  the  fame  rotation 
be  repeated.  In  the  flat  lands,  wheat  has  been  tried  with  fuc- 
cefs,  and  has  been  found  to  fuffer  leis  damage  tlian  other 
crops,  by  the  Qooda,  fxom  ^hich  thefe  grounds  are,  natwith- 
ftanding  the  embankment,  not  yet  effcftually  fccured.  Po- 
tatoes are  raifed  fufScient  for  home  confumpt,  and  fome  to 
fpare  for  the  Glafgow  market,  where  they  generally  draw 
from  8d.  to  is.  per  water  peck.  From  the  few  trials  that 
hav«  been  made,  there  is  much  encouragement  for  the  culti- 
yatiqn  of  turnip.  The  Uack  cattle  are  moftly  fmall,  and  the 
farmers  not  very  attentive  to  improve  the  breed  of  their  milk 
cows. 

Roads^ — ^The,  multiplicity  of  roads  renders  it  impoffiblc,  by. 
the  convernon  of  the  ftatute  labour,  ta  put  them  all  in  a  pro- 
per ftate  of  repair.  V  It-  deferves  therefore  the  attention  of 
both  mafters  and  tenants,  how  far  the  improvement  of  the 
country,  and  their  own  private  intereft,  might  b^  promoted, 
by  (hutting  up  fome  of  the  roads  that  arc  of  leaft  public  uti- 
lity, and  by  making  an  extraordinary  exertion  for  a  year  or 
two,  to  put  the  refl;  once  in  good  repair,  after  which  the 
road-money  would  be  fufBcient  to  keep  them  fo.  A  good 
turnpike  road  has  lately  been  made,  pafTmg  through  xht.  (kirts 
of  this  parifli,  from  the  thriving  and  now  populous  village  of 
]^alfrone  to  Glafgow.  If  is  thought  that,  by  direfting  it 
nearer  the  centre  of  this  parifh,  a  faving  of  a  mile  and  a  half  • 
at  leaft  might  liave  been  made  in  a  diftapce  of  nine  miles. 

Price  of  Labour  and  Provifi^ns. — A  good  ploughman  re- 
ceives, befides  his  board,  from  5I.  to  7L  per  half  year,  and  a 
• '        '  '  fervant 


of  BaUernoch^  ^77 

{«na&f  woman  from  35  to  50  (hillings*  The  cooimon  wagqs 
of  a  l^^boi^rer  are  1 4d«  per  day  ;  and  when  they  work  at  piece 
work,  they  generally  earn  from  is.  6d.  to  as*  per  day.  They 
axe  better  cloathed  and  lodged,  and  in  every  reipe^i  live  move 
comfortably  than  thofe  of  the  fame  rank,  half  a  century  ago. 
P14  people  remember  that,  in  their  early  years,  there  was 
not  a  cow  killed  for  beef  by  any  one  in  the  pari(hi  excepting 
in  gentlemen's  families,  and  by  one  or  two  more  \  but  now 
there  are  few  families  that  cannot  attain  to  half  a  qow  at 
lead.  The  price  of  all  kinds  of  provifions  is  nearly  the  fame 
widi  that  of  the  Gla%ow  markets. 

Ecclefiaftkal  State.T-Tlxttt  vet  no  families  belonging  to, 
the  Eftabliflied  church,  1 1  to  the  Relief,  10  to  the  Burghers, 
%  to  the  Antiburghers,  3  to  the  CameronianS|  and  1  to  the 
£erean§. 

The  prcfent  incumbent  was  admitted  in  1783.  His  pre^ 
deceflbrs,  fince  the  Revolution  1688,  were  Meflrs  Wallace, 
Colquhoun,  Garrick,  and  Taylor.  The  King  is  patron  of 
the  parifh.  The  living  confifts  of  63  bolls  of  oat-meal,  33!. 
in  money,  a  manfe,  and  a  glebe  of  10  acres,  whereof  7  are 
arable.  I  he  church  has  been  built  at  different  times.  The 
laft  enlargement  was  probably  made  before  the  beginning  of 
this  century,  with  a  view  to  accomodate  the  inhabitants  of 
the  lands  annexed  by  decreet  164^.  The  manfe  was  built 
about  50  years  ago^  and  has  undergone  feveral  repairs. 

State  of  the  Poor.— The  average  number  of  poor  in  this  parifh 
is  about  fix.  They  are  fupported,  according  to  their  exlgenciest 
in  their  own  houfcs,  from  the  weekly  coUeftions  at  the  church 
door,  and  from  the  intereft  of  a  capital  of  420!.  which  has 
accumulated  by  the  donations  of  charitable  perfons,  and  from 
^he  furplus  of  the  weekly  coUeftions.  None  of  the  poor  of 
*  .  tius 


aj^  Statiftical  Account 

tliis  parifli  are  difpofed  to  beg,  eidier  in  this  or  neighbouring 
parifhes  ;  but  much  is  given  away  bj  the  inhabitants  in  alms 
to  beggars  which  fwarm  from  other  places,  efpecially  from 
manufa£kuring  towns  and  villages. 

Minerals  and  Fuel. — ^This  parifli  abounds  in  coal  and  Rme- 
ftonc.  The  coal  refembles  that  of  Newcaftlc,  caking  toge- 
ther, and  making  a  ftrong  fire,  when  properly  put  on,  and  al- 
lowed to  reft  three  or  four  hours  before  it  be  ftirred.  It  is 
generally  found  in  a  ftratum  of  from  3  to  4I  feet  thick,  be- 
tween two  ftrata  of  Hme-ftones.  The  upper  ftratum  of  lime- 
ftone  is  called  the  blue  Hme^  and  the  lower  the  nvhite  lime, 
which  laft  has  generally  been  efteemed  of  an  inferior  quality 
to  the  blue.  Thefe  ufeful  minerals,  in  places  where  there  ia 
no  great  thicknefs  of  ftrata  above  them,  are  come  at  by  re- 
moving the  fuperincumbent  foil :  but  wherp  they  lie  deep, 
the  coal  is  wrought  firft  by  miners,  and  afterwards  the  up- 
per or  blue  lime  is  feparated  from  the  roof  by  wedges  or 
gunpowder.  Tlie^oals  are  fold  at  the  pit  for  3d,  per  hutch, 
five  of  which  may  be  drawn  in  a  cart,  by  an  ordinary  horfe, 
and  fix  by  an  able  bodied  horfe.  The  only  coal  in  the  pa- 
rifli wrought  for  fuel,  is  the  property  of  Robert  Dunmore, 
Efq;  of  Ballindalloch,  whofe  excrtiotis  for  the  improvement 
of  his  own  cftate,  and  of  the  country  in  general,  cannot  be 
mentioned  with  too  much  praifc.  He  works  the  lime  alfo  to 
a  very  confiderable  extent.  Befides  his,  there  are  three  other 
limeworks.gbing  in  the  parifli,  but  upon  a  (mailer  fcale  •,  and 
there  is  llmc^ftone,  more  or  lefs,  through  almoft  all  the  high 
grounds.  In  it  are  found  petrified  ftiells  of  a  variety  of  kinds, 
ftimuliting  the  cpnjeclurcs  of  naturalifts  concerning  the  re- 
volutions of  this  globe.  There  is  abundance  of  freeftonc  of 
a  good  quality  for  building,  and  a  little  iron-ftone ;  but,  at 
the  phce  where  it  hath  been  obferved,  the  ftratum  is  fo  thin 

as 


(fBaldernoek.  279 

1^6  not  to  be  worth  working.  A  fmall  rivulet  in  the  Bad  end 
of  the  parilh  makes  a  very  plentiful  depofition  of  ochre^ 
whichj  if  proper  means  were  ufed  to  collect  it,  might  turn  to 
fome  account.  Peats  can  eafily  .be  procured  for  fuel^  but 
few  of  them  are  ufed,  the  coals  being  found  lefs  coftly* 
A  confiderable  quantity  of  them  was  formerly  required  by 
the  farmers  for  kiln-drying  their  vi£lual  j  but  by  the  introduc* 
tion  of  kilns  with  brick  beadS)  they  have  become  lefs  necefla- 
ry«  coals  anfwering  the  purpofe  equally  well. 

Antiquitifs, — ^Upon  the  high  ground,  in  a  commanding 
lituation,  at  the  North"  Weft  comer  of  the  parifli,  ftands  an 
old  ruinous  tower,  being  all  that  now  remains  of  the  manfion 
houfe  of  the  Galbraiths  of  Bathernock,  which  appears  to 
have  been  a  large  building  furrounded  with  a  ditch.  Its  an« 
tiquity  muft  be  very  confiderable,  but  how  great,  even  tra- 
dition does  not  venture  to  determine.  Not  far  from  thence* 
to  the  eaftward,  are  feveral  of  thofe  large  loofe  heaps  of  ftones 
called  Cah'ns,  fome  of  them  oblong,  and  others  of  a  circular 
ihape.  One  of  the  circular  ones,  which  has  not  yet  been 
broken  up,  is  about  80  yards  in  circumference.  From  two 
that  have  been  broken  up,  it  appears  that  they  are  compofed 
of  loofe  flones  carelefsly  thrown  together  ;  but  at  the  bottom 
are  large  flags  placed  on  edge,  in  two  parallel  rows,  at  the 
diftance  of  between  3  or  4  feet,  lidded  over  with  flags  laid 
acrofs,  the  cavity  thus  formed  is  divided  by  partitions  into 
cells  of  6  or  7  feet  long.  In  one  of  the  long  cairns  lately 
broken  up,  were  found  feveral  fragments  of  a  large  coarfelj 
fabricated  urn,  and  fome  pieces  of  human  bones.  Tradition 
fays,  that  in  this  place,  called  Craigmadden  moor,  a  battle 
was  fought  with  the  Danes,  in  which  one  of  their  princes  was 
flain.  The  farm  in  which  thefe  cairns  are,  is  named  Bloch- 
airni  which  may  be  a  corruption  of  Balcairn^  x.  e.  the  town 

of 


aSb  Statijlical  Account 

oi  the  cairns.  But  the  moft  curious  remain  of  antiquity  in 
this  parifh,  is  a  (IruAure  called  the  Auld  wtffs  lift.  It  is  fituat- 
ci  near  a  mile  Nortli  from  the  church,  on  very  high  ground^ 
in  a  little  flat  of  about  i  oo  pa6e»  diameter,  furrounded  by  an  af- 
cq^t  of  a  few  yards  in  height,  in  the  form  of  an  amphitheatre. 
It  confifts  of  three  ftones  only,  two  of  which,  of  a  prifmatic 
fliape,  are  laid  along  clofc  by  each  other  upon  tlie  earth  % 
and  the  third,  which  was  once  probably  a  regular  paralello- 
piped,  and  ftill,  notwlthftanding  the  depredations  of  time, 
approaches  that  figure,  is  laid  above  the  other  two.  The 
uppcrmoft  ftone  is  \%  feet  long,  1 1  broad,  and  6  deep,  plac- 
ed nearly  horiiontally  with  a  fmall  dip  to  the  North.  Its 
two  fupporters  are  about  the  fame  fize.  It  can  hardly  be 
matter  of  doubt,  that  this  is  one  of  thofe  rude  ftru£lures 
ere£ted  by  the  Druids  in  their  facred  groves.  Its  fituatlon, 
in  a  very  fcqueftered  fpot,  on  an  eminence,  furrounied  by  a 
grove  of  oaks,  ftumps  of  which  trees  are  ftill  vifibic,  correfponds 
exactly  to  every  defcription  we  have  of  thcfe  places  of  wor- 
ihip.  The  figure  of  the  ftones  themfelves,  and  their  poiltion^ 
bear  a  ftrong  refcmblancc  to  others  which  antiquarians  havd 
not  hcfitatcd  to  pronounce  monuments  of  Druidifm.  Thd 
tiame  by  which  they  at-e  called  feems  no  fmall  confirmation 
of  the  truth  of  thii  opinion;  A  Driiidical  ftohe  in  Ireland^ 
mentioned  by  Canibden,  is  called  the  l^ed  ftone  ;  and  theni 
arc  fofiie  in  PoitietS  in  France,  known  by  the  rianie  of  Pier- 
tcs  levccsi  But  bcCdcs  that  the  ftones  under  cbnfideratiorl 
have  the  name  of  lift,  which  appears  to  be  the  general  ap^ 
pellation  of  fiich  IJtuidical  ftones,  the  fpecific  part  of  theit 
name,  viz.  Auld  wives,  is  eafily  accounted  for,  on  the  fame 
fuppofition.  Upon  the  authority  of  Tacitus  and  Meia,  we 
know  that  female  Druids,  generally  pretty  far  advanced  id 
yeat^i  lived  together  in  fifterhoods,  in  fcqueftered  fpots,  de- 
Voting  their  time  to  the  offices  of  the  DruFdical  worfhip; 

thcfe 


o/BaJdernocL  28  i 

Thcfc  were  by  the  people  held  in  high  efteem,  and  called  Sen^^ 
or  venerable  women^  words  nearly  fynonymous  to  the  Scots 
word  Auld  wives.  Hence  we  are  induced  to  conclude,  that  this 
is  one  of  thofe  lifted  ftones^  Pierres  levees }  and  that  it  is  called 
the  Auldwive's  lift,  becaufe  it  was  the  lifted  (lone  where 
the  Senx,  or  fifterhood  of  venerable  female  Druids  redding 
here,  paid  their  devotions*    Upon  the  fuppoCtiohi  alfo,  thai 
this  was  a  feat  of  the  Druid  worfhip,  vi^e  have  fuggefted  td' 
us  a  very  probable  etymology  of  the  name  of  the  pariih.  Bal^  ' 
in  the  Gaelic  language  fignifies  town^  and  Uruinich,  of  or 
belonging  to  the  Druids.   The  prefent  name,  Baldcmock,  is 
not  a  greater  conuptioii  of  Baldruinich,  u  e,  Druidftown^ 
than  might  be  expected  in  the  lapfe  of  eighteen  hundred  ' 
years. 


Oo  NUMBER 


282  Stati/lkal  Account 


NUMBER   XVII. 


PARISH  OF   LONGSIDE. 


District  of  Bdch/im^  CobKTt  of  Aberdeen,  Presbttb- 
RT  OP  Debr,  and  Synod  of  Aberdeen. 


By  the  Rev.  Mr.  William  Ckxio^  Minijier. 


Situation  and  Extent. 


HE  parifli  of  Longjide  is  fitaated  in  that  diftri£t  of  A- 
berdecif^fiiire  called  Buchan*  It  is  an  irregular  fquare,  of  a- 
bout  5  Englifli  miles,  and  is  boundedj^on  the  North,  by  the 
parifhes  of  Old  Deer  and  Lonmay  ;  on  the  Eaft,  by  thofe  of 
St:  Fergus  atld  Peterhead ;  pn  the  South  by  Cruden ;  and 
on  the  Weft  by  Old  Deer.  It  is,  like  Buchan  in  general, 
very  level ;  there  being  no  hill  of  any  confequence  in  the  pa- 
ri(h.  As  a  proof  of  this,  it  may  be  mentiohed,  that  the 
Ugie,  which  divides  it  in  thefMire£lion  of  W.  and  E.  fre- 
qnently  overflows  the  adjoining  ground  to  a  very  confider- 
able  extent,  from  almoft  one  fide  of  the  parifli  to  the  other  \ 
and,  in  the  hands  of  our  neighbours  in  the  Netherlands, 
^    would  be  embanlied  like  the  Maefe  or  the  Rhine.    This  has 

fuggefted 


(f  Longjide.  283 

fuggefted  the  idea  of  a  canal  along  its  banks,  from  its  mouth 
near  Peterhead,  to  the  village  of  Old  Deer ;  a  diftance  of  a* 
bout  I  o  miles.  The  plan  might  be  executed  at  a  very  incon- 
fiderable  cxpence ;  and  would  contribute  much  to  the  im- 
provement of  a  v^ry  valuable  di(lri£t.  It  is,  in  general,  a 
light  foil,  eafily  improved,  and  lying  at  the  diftance  of  only 
from  4  to  9  miles  from  Peterhead,  enjoys  almoft  every  ad- 
vantage for  the  exportation  of  its  produce,  and  the  importa- 
tion of  lime,  coals,  and  other  neccflary  articles. 

The  prefcnt  ftate  of  the  parifii,  as  welKas  its  fufccptibility 
of  farther  improvement,  may  be  inferred  from  the  following 
particulars; 

Population. — It  contains,  according  to  a  very  accurate  lift, 
taken  by.  the  writer  of  the  prefent  article,  in  the  end  of  the 
year  17^0  and  beginning  of  1791,  1792  inhabitants*. 

Of  thefe  817  are  males,  and  975  are  femaie^f 
Under  xo  yean  of  age  there  are  270 
From      JO    to    ao  334 

From      flo    to    50  743 

From      50    to    76  323 

From      70    to  zoo  ^   i^% 

X79» 
They  are  divided  into  473  families  j  which  is  not  quite  4  to 
a  family.  Of  thefe  families,  about  100  arc  employed  mfarn^ 
tng  ;  60,  as  weaver  J  ;  100  as  ffinners  offloiCy  and  wool^com- 
hrs,  &c.  from  40  to  50,  as  day-labourers.  Nearly  40  aie 
poor  families,  occafionally  (Applied  from  the  public  funds  of 
O  o  2  the 

*  By  Dr  Webfler't  Report  in  1755, 1  ^^  that  the  number  of  inbabitanU 
was  1979,  or  nearly  aoo  more  than  the  above.  As  do  fatisfa^ory  reaioQ 
can  be  aflipied  for  this  dimioutioD,  from  the  hiftory  of  the  pariih,  I  am  in- 
0iiie4  to  chink  that  the  account  fent  to  the  PoAor  mvft  have  been  inaccvraft* 


^84  Sta^Hcal  Accoujit 

the  pariih«  The  remamder  are  mafons^  taylors,  &c.  ^& 
Almofl;  all  have  a  few  acres  of  ground,  which  they  cultivate^ 
at  the  lame  time  that  they  purfue  their  other  occupations. 
From  this  circumftance,  it  may  be  inferred,  that  the  different 
t>ranches  of  labour  above  enumerated  are  Aill  io  an  unim- 
proved  ftatc.  Some  approaches,  however,  towards  a  regular 
divifion  and  (implification  of  labour  have  been  made  of  late  ; 
particularly  at  Nether  Kinmundy  :  which  will  be  mentioned 
iifterwards. 

From  an  infpe£tion  of  the  regifler  of  births,  marriages,  and 
deaths,  for  6  years,  from  the  year  >  7S5,  it  appears  that  the 
average  bf  baptifms,  durii^g  that  period,  is  29 ;  that  the  male 
births  are  to  the  female  as  4  to  3  ;  that  the  average  of  pa^^ 
fifiiioners  married  in  the  above  period,  is  only  2 1  \  that  the 
average  of  burials  is  20  }  that  the  whole  number  of  inter- 
ments, including  perfons  brought  from  neighbouring  parifbes^ 
is  2o8- ;  whofe  ages  amount  to  9444  years ;  and  that  of  con* 
fequence  the  average  of  an  age  is  fomewhat  more  than  45. 

jlgricultunr^'When  I  fay  that  100  Cimilics  arid  upwards 
are  employed  in  farming,  or  that  tlhere  are  ico  farms  in  the 
pariQi,  it  will  readily  be  inferred  that  many  of  thefe  farms 
mull  be  fmall :  And  when  this  is  the  cafe,  it  is  impofliblc 
that  lands  can  be  improved  to  any  confiderablc  extent.  Many 
of  them  are  what  are  called  crofts  ;  which  do  not  admit  of 
the  tenants  having  a  plough.  Two,  or  three,  and  fometimes 
four,  arie  obliged  to  join  for  thife  purpofe  :  which  is,  in  other 
words,  faying,  that  the  work  is  ill-performed,  and  at  a  great 
cxpence  of  time  and  labour.  No  fimplification  of  the  differ- 
ent branches  of  agriculture  can  be  accomplilhed  in  a  very 
ittiall  fcale:  And  yet,  when  this  is  not  done,— when  one 
man  mult  do  8  or  10  different  forts  of  ^ork,  little  knowledge 
^'"  '     •—    ^    or 


of  Longjidf^  ^85 

gr  dexterity  can  be  expefled  on  his  part,  atid  little  profit  qx\ 
the  part  pf  the  employer.  The  number  of  acres  in  the  pa- 
riffi  amount  to  about  i2)OCO,  (rented  for  little  more  than 
2000I.  Sterling)  of  which  above  7000  are  at  prefent  in  a 
{tate  of  cultivation  \  1800  are  mofs,  (a  confiderable  part  of 
it  very  deep)  only  257  are  planted ;  and  the  remainder  is 
uncultivated.  Though  there  is  but  a  fmall  proportion  which 
is  not  fufccptible  pf  cultivation,  yet,  owing  to  the  impro^ 
per  modes  of  agriculture  adopted,  perhaps  3000  bolls  of  oatr 
meal  and  bear  are  all  that  are  exported  annually ;  ar^d  the 
whole  produce  rot  much  above  7000  bolls.  Svppofing  the 
attention  of  farmers  and  proprieters  confined  to  the  7000 
acres  above-mentioned,  and  no  more  than  3500  to  be  under 
a  grain  crop  \  from  15,000  to  20,000  bolls,  at  lead,  might 
be  reafpnably  expefted  under,  a  judicious  plan  of  manage* 
ment.  A  perfon  interefted  in  the  welfare  of  the  country 
inuft  be  hurt,  when  he  remarks  the  ftatc  of  our  com  farm- 
ing ;  fields  ploughed,  from  which  fcarcely  twice  the  feed  can 
be  expe£led,  and  fpecies  of  grain  fomethnes  growings  which 
require  two  bolls  to  produce  one  of  meal.  Nor  will  he  be 
Icfs  hurt,  when  he  remarks  the  neceflary  confequences  of 
this  management  with  regard  to  hay  and  pailure  ;  extenfive 
ranges  of  country,  where  thefe  ought  to  be  found  in  great 
abundance,  yielding  a  fcanty  fubfiftence  to  a  few  {Keep. 

The  parifh  is  divided  among  fix  heritors.  Nearly  the  half 
belongs  to  one  of  thcm-f.  And  by  granting  no  leafes  for 
many  years  paft,  he  has  at  prefent  much  in  his  power,  with 
regard  to  new- modelling  his  farms,  and  puting  them  upon  a 
proper  footing.  With  this  view,  he  has  paid  particular  at- 
tention to  the  different  modes  of  farming,  both  in  England 
and  in  the  South  of  Scotland.  But  to  introduce  fo  complete 
a  change  as  either  of  thefe  modes,  all  at  once,  (if  at  all  prac- 

'  ticable) 

j  Mr  Fe&ouson  of  Pitfour,  Member  of  Parliament  for  the  Coontf. 


286  Statijlical  Account 

ticable)  is  attended  with  great  difficulties :  and  gradual  rc^^ 
formation  is  perhaps  here,  as  well  as  in  mod  other  depart- 
ments of  human  labour,  the  preferable  plan. 

From  the  obfervatlons  already  made,  it  is  evident  that  wc 
Hand  much  in  need  of  improvement.  If  the  fmall  farms 
could  be  united,  and  many  of  the  prefent  poflcflbrs  of  them 
converted  into  day-labourers,  under  tenants  who  could  afford 
them  conftant  employment  j  and  if  a  few  tenants  from  the 
Southern  counties,  of  fubftancc  and  knowledge,  were  encou- 
raged to  fettle,  as  patterns  to  our  native  tenants ;  both  claf- 
fes  would  be  benefited,  and  live  infinitely  better  than  thefe 
do  at  prefent.  Proprietors  ought  at  leaft  to  have  this  in 
view,  if  they  w;(h  to  fee  their  eftates  improved,  or  the  ten- 
ants on  them  comfortable.  It  admits  of  proof,  notwithftand- 
ing  the  complaints  which  we  frequently  hear  of  the  difficuU 
ty  of  finding  fervants,  and  of  the  unjuft  preference  which 
is  given  to  manufa£lures,  that  there  are  inh<ibitants  fuiHcient 
in  tlic  country  for  ^he  purpofes  of  its  improvement,  if  a  cer- 
tain indolence  and  want  of  fpring  (which  is  one  of  the  cfia- 
rafteriftic  features  in  the  lower  ranks  in  this  part  of  the 
kingdom)  could,  by  proper  motives  and  encouragements,  be 
removed  :  And  this  depends  on  landlords,  and  on  the  choice 
which  they  make  of  tenants. 

Befides  the  3000  bolls  of  grain  already  mentioned,  about 
300  black  cattle  are  exported  annually ;  and  butter,  cheefe^ 
and  eggs,  to  the  amount  of  about  loool.  Sterling.^  The  prices 
of  the  lail  mentioned  articles  are  from  6d.  to  8d.  for  20 
ounces  of  butter ;  from  3s.  to  43.  for  the  (lone  of  cheefe  % 
and  from  2d.  to  6d.  for  the  dozen  of  eggs. 

MantiJaBures, — ^This  branch  of  induftry  has  made  very 
confiderable  progrefs  in  the  parifli  within  thefe  few  years* 
gefides  the  fpinning  of  flax  to  a  very  confiderable  amount  for 


af  Longjide.  it'J 

the  thr^ad*manufa£lures  in  Peterhead,  a  manufafiure  of 
Woollen  cloth  at  Neiher-Kinmundj  (the  property  of  Francis 
Garden  of  Troup,  Efq;)  has,  of  late,  become  very  confider* 
able  for  an  infant  manufacture.  It  is  conduded  by  Mejprs 
Thomas  (^  Robert  Kilgour^  and  dcferves  to  be  particularly 
mentioned. 

About  40  families  are  employed  by  them  conftantly ;  to 
Mrhom  they  give  houfes  and  gardens.  But  far  the  greater 
number  whom  they  employ,  are  fcattered  in  this  and  the 
neighbouring  parifties,  and  work  for  the  company  only  occa- 
Gonally.  The  articles  manufactured  here  are  narrow  cloths, 
from  28.  3d.  to  5s.  per  yard  \  and  jemmys  from  is.  id.  to  i^. 
6d.  per  yard.  They  are  ufcd  moftly  at  home.  For  the 
higher  priced  fort  of  narrow  cloths,  the  demand  is  daily  in- 
creafing.  Men,  thus  employed,  earn  from  4s.  to  10s.  a- week; 
and  women  from  is.  6d.  to  3d.  'And  in  this  manner  about 
2000I.  Sterling  is  diiburfed  annually.  It  is  with  pleafure 
the  writer  of  the  prefent  article  adds,  from  his  own  obferva* 
tion,  as  well  as  from  the  exprefs  teftimony  of  their  employ- 
ers, that  both  men  and  women  are  peaceable,  fober,  and  at- 
tentive. As  a  proof  of  this,  it  dcferves  to  be  mentioned, 
that  during  the  fpace  of  1 5  years,  not  a  Gngle  perfon  has 
been  difmiffed.  Living  in  a  healthy  county,  and  not  crowd- 
ed together,  as  in  towns ;  and  having,  moreover,  all  gardens 
for  the  employment  of  their  fpare  hours,  they,  in  general,  en- 
joy good  health,  and  have  numerous  families.  Of  late,  the 
labour  of  carding,  teafing,  &c.  has  been  much  facilitated  by 
the  introduftion  of  machinery  moved  by  water.  The  raw 
materials  are  brought  from  the  N.  of  England,  and  not  un- 
frequently  from  the  London  market. 

Religious  SeBs  and  Principles. — Public  inftitutions,  whe- 
ther religious  or  civil,  are  fertile  fources  of  moral  principles. 

In 


iti  Staii/iical  Account 

lit  tj^is  parifh,  neither  our  civil,  nor  our  ecclefiaftical  efta-* 
bHfhments  have  been  without  their  efied.  The  inhabitants 
are  peaceable  and  good  fabje£t8  ;  and  the  fpirit  of  our  reli- 
gioni  if,  in  general,  underftood  and  felt  to  be,  what  it  ever 
ought  to  be,  a  fupport  to  found  morality.  An  oppofition  be- 
tween fpeculatioR  and  pra£lical  religion,  is  a  common  error 
among  the  more  unenlightened  ranks  of  every  country.  Its  in- 
fluence is  in  fome  degree  felt  here.  But  a  more  rational  fpi«> 
rit  feems  to  be  gaining  ground.  With  regard  to  forms^  and 
opinions  of  fecondary  importance,  the  parifli  has  been  long 
divided  \  and  where  this  happens,  fome  degree  of  illiberali- 
ty  is  to  be  looked  for.  In  the  year  1790,  the  writer  of  this 
article  found  908  belonging  to  the  Eftabliihed  Church  -,  723 
belonging  to  the  Epifcopal  Church  of  Scotland,  and  85  to 
the  Church  of  England  \  63  were  Seceders  \  6  were  Roman 
Catholics  \  and  the  remainiug  7  were  either  infane,  or  be- 
longjpd  to  no  religious  community.  But,  in  general,  all 
thefe  fedts  maintain  a  peaceable  and  friendly  intercourfe  with 
one  another.  It  might  gratify  curlofity,  and  illuilrate  fome 
of  the  leading  principles  in  human  nature,  to  trace  the  ope- 
ration of  thofe  caufes  which  have  concurred  to  produce  fo 
great  a  number  of  Epifcopals  in  this  and  in  fon>e  of  the 
neighbouring  pariihes.  But  fuch  an  equiry  would  fwell  this 
part  of  the  Statiftical  Account  too  much.  It  may  be  ob- 
ferved,  in  general,  that,  as  the  lower  ranks  are  incapable  of 
forming  .i;eligious  .creeds^  which  can  ftand  the  teft,  evpn  of 
t^iueir  own  rQfieAions,<for  any  length  of  time,  we  mud  look 
fpr  the  c^h(€^  of  a  long  eftabliihed  attachment, to  opiniona 
and  fprm%  In  the  influence  of  authority,  intjcrcft,  and  habit. 
If  oppo(lcionr.2ip4  pci^fccution  unhappily  lend  their  aid  to  that 
influencc,jj^ip5<ytiaUty,i8  gei%r/dly  baajfticdiand  the  cfl^ft  bc- 
compf.^cxud^ft©ijg^;: , 


oJLongfide*  180 

Posi\ — The  fund  for  the  fupport  of  the  poor^  arlfcs  from 
the  vftfiVS^  colledions,  and  the  intered  of  a  fmall  fum,  be- 
gun by  charitable  donations,  and  encreafed  by  an  ceconomt* 
cal  managemont,  particularly  during  years  when  the  necet 
faries  of  life  were  eafily  acquired ;  about  20  L  Sterling  is 
diftribut^  annually  among  about  30  families,  but  is»  by  no 
means,  found  fuf&cient  to  aflifl;  induftry  in  procuring  a  com« 
fortable  fubfiftence  . — With  no  other  view  ought  money  to  be 
given  ;  and  with  this,  a  very  fmall  fum  will  do  more  fervice 
than  ten  times  its  ^aluc^  when  it  is  depended  on  as  d  fubfli- 
tute  for  induftry.  Of  the  20 1.  above  mentioned,  5  1.  Ster- 
ling is  given  annually  by  one  of  the  heritors* ;  and  the  dif- 
tribution  of  it  is  confined  to  the  poor  on  his  own  eftates.: 
— A  praAice  which  defcrvcs  to  be  imitated  -,  particularly  in 
a  parifli  where,  in  the  prefent  cafe,  there  is  not  a  (izigle  re- 
ildent  heritor  (o  attend  to  the  wants  of  the  poor  in  extraor* 
dinary  cafes.  N.  B.  The  members  of  the  epifcopal  congre*". 
ga^mi  fupport  their  own  poon 

Man/f,  Stipeudy  ^hool,  &V. — The  parilh  of  Ix)ngfide  wa4. 
ere<£led  in  the  year.  1620,  from  the  pariflies  of  Peterhead 
and  Crimond  (  M'ith  which  laft  mentioned  parifli  there 
ieems  to  have  been  formerly  a  communication  in  the  N.  £• 
<forner,  where  now  the  pariflies  of  St  Fergus  and  Lonmay 
meet  each  other.  The  original  ftipend  was  1 20  L  Scots^ 
and  400  merks  of  vicarage  t<:inds,  which  are  fliU ,  drawn  by 
the  minifter,  but  do  not  produee  above  a6o  rotrks^  In  1668^ 
ix  was  augmcnteii  with  4  chalders  df  grainy  andy  is  179U 
with  3  chalders  morci  and  66  Scota  for  communion  elcmentst 
At  the  time  of  the  laft  mentioned  angmentatioti,  an  appli- 
cation Was  ri)ade  to  have  the  vie0rage  Uindt  converted,  on  ac- 
count of  the  deficiency  aboTe  mentioned^  and  ihe  ^agrecabl^ 

Vol.  XV  P  p  ctrcomftancer 

*  Mr  Fcf^tifon  aWve  aBnde4  ML- 


2^0  *  Statijlival  Account 

cumftances  attending  their  collection  (circumftanccs  fre- 
quently incompatible  with  the  afeftilncfs  of  a  clergyman^) 
but  failed. 

The  family  of  Rlarlfchall,  which  had  formerly  very  confi- 
derable  property  in  the  pnrifh,  were  the  original  patrons  5  pro- 
bably in  confequence  of  the  canonical  rule ;  Patronumfd'- 
ciunty  dofj  csd'tjicathy  fundus.  The  right  of  pre  fen  ling  is  nbw 
annexed  to  the  Crown.  The  prefent  incumbent  has  no 
manfe,  but  receives  in  lieu  of  it  an  annuity  from  the  heritors. 
The  original  church  ftill  remains  ;  bat  hag  been  repaired  at 
different  times. 

Under  this  head,  the  fituatio'n  of  the  fchool  ought  to  be 
mentioned ;  as  being  (the  writer  of  the  prefent  article  would 
gladly  hope)  Angular.  The  falary  is  only  nine  hells  ^  meal ; 
which  the  fchoolnlader  has  to  colleft  from  the  tenants  in 
very  fmall  quantities,  and  of  confequcnce  at  a  great  lofs.  The 
emoluments  arifmg  from  teaching,  owing  to  the  Yery  low 
price  of  education,  (for  the  fchoolmafter  is  acknowledged  to 
be  well  qualified  for  his  office)  are^  at  an  average  of  eight 
years,  4 !.  6s.  7d.  a  yean  Perquifites  ari(ing  from  his  offices^ 
as  precenter  and  clerk  to  the  feflion,  do  .not  exceed  4 1.  Ster- 
ling. Of  c<JnfcquciKe,  his  whole  liring  does  not  amount  to 
more  than  i  a  1,  Sterling  annually ;  a  fum  not  equal  to  the 
wages  of  an  ordinary  fafm-fervant.  When  it  is , confidered 
of  how  muck  confequence  it  is  to  focicty  (particularly,  at  a 
period  when  the  principles  of  the  lower  ranks  are  of  infini- 
tely more  confequcnce  to  its  welfare  than  ever  they  were  be- 
fore,) to  Iwavc  perfons  properly  qualified  for-the  education  of 
youth  appointed  in  the  different  pariflie^,  the  circumftanccs 
above  mentidded  feem  to  demand  attention  from  hcritorg, 
and  others  whom  the  law  authbrifes  to  provide  for  the  pnv 
per  maintenance  of  fchoolmaftcrs. 


£>fLmgfide.  $91 

Planting. — ^The  want  of  woods  and  (helter  in  this  corner  of 
Abcrdeenfhirc,  is  one  of  the  circumftanccs  which  ftcins  to 
operate  moft  powerfully  to  its  difadvantage^  in  -the-  opinion 
of  our  fouthern  neighbours.  Such  extendve  trails  of  count- 
ry as  thofc  of  Crudcn,  Longfide,  Peterhead,  &c,  without 
either  trees  or  hedges  to  diverfify  the  hndfcape,  are,  to  be 
fure,  not  very  gratifying  to  the  eye.  And  this  famenefs  is  the 
more  to  be  regretted,  that  the  fields  are  far  from  conveying 
the  idea  of  barrcnnefs,  and  thjt  nature  by  no  means  intended 
them  to  be  thus  naked  and  unprote£ied.  It  is  very  evident 
that  Buchan  was,  fome  centuries  ago,  remarkably  well  wood- 
ed. Its  extenfive  moffes  contain  the  remains  of  very  mag- 
nificent trees.    No  good  rcjifon,  therefore,  can  be  affigned 

•  fqr  the  fame  fjrts  of  wood  not  thriving  in  it  again,  if  judiciouf- 
ly  managed.  But  few  attempts  (comparatively  fpeaking) 
have  been  made  to  renew  its  woods  j  and  thofc  which  have 
been  made,  have  in  general  been  confined  to  the  hiHy  and 
moft  banen  parts  of  the  country  \  where  the  plants  have. not 
only  had  no  fbelter,  but  little  foil  to  bring  them  forward.  It 
deferves  attention,  that  in  the  moffes,  where  fo  many  trunks 
of  large  trees  are  every  year  dug  up,  none  of  the  Scotch  firs 
are  ever  found.     Yet  thij  is  the  tree  which  Kas  generally 

^been  planted.  It  commonly  rifes  to  a  fufficient  height  to  af- 
ford fhelter  to  other  plants  j  and  this  feems  to  be  all  that 
ought  to  be  expe£led.  There  are  fcveral  inftances  in  the  pa- 
rifh,  of  the  afli,  the  plane,  the  birch,  laburnum,  larch,  fpruce, 
and  even  the  oaks  thriving  well,  if  we  make  allowance  for 
the  difadvantagcs  under  which  they,  labour,  with  regard  to 
fliclter.  The  only  plantation  of  any  confequencc  in  the  pa- 
rifli,  is  one  of  about  250  aj^res  ;  to  which  the  above  pbferva- 
tions  arc  very  applicable.  When  the  interftices  between  the 
Scotch  firs  (hall  be  filled  up  with  other  trees  more  fuited  to 

P  p  a  the 


^i  Statifiit'di  'Account 

the  <lt4artf<it  foils,  and  fdrtic  ot&t  wet  places  cliained,  (^^hioK 
is  the  intenrlon  of  the  proprietor,)  fome  hopes  may  be  cn^ 
tcftoed*  of  his  fiiccefs  m  wiping  oflFthc  reproach  of  naked-* 
nefe  from  thft  part  of  the  parift. 


Leafcs  and  Rents, -^l  havQ  already  mentioned,  that  ^  conr 
fiderable  part  of  the  pari(h  is  held  without  leafcs.  The  ten- 
fints,  whq  haye  a^j,  generally  haye  life-rent  ones  \  and  fcarce- 
ly  any  h^vc  more  tha^  i  p  years.  When  this  circumftance 
i&  coolidercdy  ^nd  .^t  the  fame  tim?  the  fmallnefs  of  the  farms, 
the  backward,  {(ate  of  improvement  ^vill  be  eafily  accounted 
for.  The  rept^  arc  generally  paid  in  meal  and  pioney  •,  be- 
de^  which,  there  ftijl  irem-riin  fome  reHques  of  the  ancient 
feudal  fer\'itudes,  upder  die  name  of  cuftoms  *,  fuch  as  the 
payment  of  peats,  poultry,  a  certain  number  of  da^-IaboaJrv 
crs,  &<;• 

Afg/f.-r-From  the  great  extent  of  mof^,  it  will  readily  b^ 
inferred  (hat  fuel  is  to  be  had  iti  great  abundance.  In  gCn 
neral  it  is  fo.  But  wtien  it  is  confider^d,  hbw  mudh  of  th^ 
beft  feafon  of  the  year  is  fpent  in  preparing  it,  how  difliciik 
it  is  to  be  obtained  in  rainy  feafons,  an^  how  ill  provided 
particulaT  eftates  are  with  this  neccfliry  article ;  the  wife  po- 
licy of  repealing  the  late  high  duties  on  coals  will  'appear 
fvident. 

Natural  jH^fl^ry.— Under  the  head  of  natural  hiftory,  may 
)>e  mentioned  various  forts  of  granite,  with  which  the  pariOi 
abounds*  A  very  beautiful  fpecies  of  a  dark  blue  colour  is 
found  in  the  N.  E.  corner  of  it,  which  appears  to  great  ad- 
.Y?mtag,e  in  a  ver^  elegant  houfe  building  by  one  of  the  ii^ri- 


of  LoHgfide.  293 

tors'*  at  Csumefs;  in  the  parlfh  of  I^ionmay.  Another  fpecie^ 
of  a  lighter  colour^  but  alfo  very  beautiful^  is  found  at  Cairn- 
gaU ;  frequent  fpecimens  of  which  ate  to  be  feen  in  London 
and  other  parts  of  England.  Of  both  fpecies  very  large 
pieces  are  frequently  cut  out,  fit  for  pillars  of  12  and  i  c,and 
fometimes  10  feet  high.  Their  hardnefs,  however,  renders 
them  unfit  for^y,  except  the  plainer  orders  of  archite£lure« 

i)ifeafes.—hho}}X  3  years  ago,  the  putrid  fotc  throit  cut 
off  a  good  many  (principally  young  perfons) ;  in  fome  in^ 
fiances  4  ouf  of  a  family.  Gravelifh  coniplaints  are  alfo  fre- 
quent, which  perhaps  may,  in  fome  meafure,  be  'i^tributcd 
to  the  great  quantities  of  beer  ufed,  and  to  the  little  paiiis 
taken  ip  preparing  it.  Rheumatifms,  tod,  are  common, 
frequent  fogs  in  the  fummer,  arifing  from  the  iow  wet 
grounds  and  mofTes  in  the  parifh,  dnd  fudden  changes  of 
weather,  occalioned  by  our  peninfular  (ituation  between  the 
German  Ocean,  on  the  one  hand,  and  the  Murray  Frith,  on 
the  other,  fccm  to  point  out  their  caufcs.  But  notwithfland- 
ing  thcfe  niementoi  of  frailty,  the  climate,  on  the  whol^ 
inay  b^  termed  healthy.  And  though  no  very  extraordina- 
ry inflances  of  longevity  can  be  mentioned,  few  parifhes  can 
produce  a  jgreatei^  number  pf  perfons  above  th^  age  of  foui^ 

i^dr)^.*— This  article  would  be  almoft  entirely  confined  to 
tlic  hiftory  of  private  families,  and  of  the  changes  which  land* 
ed  property  has  undergone  in  the  parifh  (circumflances  too 
minute  and  uninterefling,  to  merit  a  place  in  a  Statiflical  Ac- 
count of  a  country)  did  not  one  part  of  it  give  fome  indica- 
dons  of  its  having  been  the  fcene  oi^bFtc  and  naituml  conuft. 

'  This 

f  ClvrksO«rdo«iofBml4aw,Efq; 


294      '  Statyiical  Mcount 

This  1$  the^part  of  the  parifli  where  it  join?  Crudcn.  Qn  the 
declivity  of  a  hill,  which  feparates  the  two  pari  fhes,  there 
are  ftill  vifible  a  great  number  of  tumuli,  or  fmall  cairns,  in 
which  are  found  fquare  apartments,  formed  by  rough  ftones, 
of  from  J  8  iiit^lics  to  2  feet,  and  containing  afhes  or  red 
earth.  At  a  fmall  diftance  from  thefe,  and  nearly  on  the 
Ijighelt  part  of  the  hill^  is  a  cairn  of  a  much  larger  fize,  of 
an  elliptical  form,  and  meafuring  in  circumference  about 
400  feet  at  its  bafe.  Ij:  is  well  known  by  the  jiame  of  Cairn 
Catto ;  and  fome  traditionary  legends  conned  its  hiftory  with 
fimilar  cairns  in  the  paiifti  of  Crudcn,  sind  in  fome  of  the 
neighbouring  p^rifhes,  along  the  Murray  Frith,  as  well  as 
with  the  idea  of  a  foreign  invafion.  At  the  bottom  of  the 
hill  are  foxne  Q>ruigs,  known  by  the  name  of  the  Kempy  or 
Camp-wells  ,•  and  a  little  farther  to  the  Weft,  on  the  oppo- 
fite  rifing  ground^  is  a  fields  which  dill  bears  the  name  of 
XYi^  BatiU'Jauld. 

Language. — ^The  Buchan  dialeft  has  been  long  famous  for 
the  want  of  that  neatnefs  of  articulation,  and  of  that  elegance 
of  found  and  accent,  by  which  the  Southern  and  more  culti- 
vated nations  have  charaiE^rifed  their  refpediive  languages« 
In  proportion  as  language  becomes  more  refined,  the  uncouth 
guttural  is  cither  entirely  excluded,  or  very  much  foftened. 
In  the'Englifli  and  French,  and  indeed  in  all  the  Southern 
languages,  it  is  not  to  be  found.  In  German,  Dutch,  and 
Scotch,  and  the  other  northern  diale£b  of  Europe^  it  is  con- 
ftantly  recurring,  and  (eems  to  point  out  their  common  ori- 
gin, independent  of  etymology.  But  where  any  attention  has 
been  paid  to  the  cultivation  of  thefe  dialefls,  the  guttural 
and  harfli  founds  of  the  g  and  ch,  have  been  almoft  entirely 
dene  away,  and  either  foftened  into  the  refemblance  of  y,  or 
hardened  into  that  of  i.     Any  perfon  will  be  fenfible  of  this, 

who 


of  Long  fide.  295 

who  has  heard  the  pronounciation  of  Dutch  from  the  month 
of  a  well  educated  Dutchman  ;  and  ftill  more,  if  he  has  at^ 
tended  the  theatre  at  Drcfden  or  Leipfic.  In  this  corner  we 
retain  all  the  Wo^dnefs  of  artidilation,  and,  I  am  forry  to 
add,  all  the  vulgarity  of  idiom,  metaphor,  and  accent,  which 
is  to  be  met  with  in  any  part  of  the  world.  And  it  is  pro- 
bable that  we  (hall  retain  thcfe  peculiarities  of  language 
longer  than  moft  places  equally  diftant  from  the  capita!  \  be- 
caufe,  except  the  refort  of  ftrangers  to  Peterhead,  during  the. 
Watcr-feafon,  few  vifit  us ;  and,  of  confequence,  little  of  that 
intercourfc  is  enjoyed,  by  which  language  is  fo  materially  af- 
fcfted.  If  the  degree  of  mental  cultivation  in  a  country  be 
comraenfurable  by  the  ftate  in  which  a  language  is  found, 
(which  is  not  a  very  uncommon  rule)  then  wc  muft  not 
ftate  our  pretenfiorts  very  high.  But  the  phrafe,  mental  cul- 
tivation,  is  not  very  definite  \  and  many  minds  might  be 
pointed  out,  to  whofe  improvement  their  language  would  be 
a  very  imjperfeft  index.  That  feleftion  of  agreeable  meta- 
phors, and  that  polifh  of  articulation  and  accent,  which  are 
100  often  confidercd  as  the  moft  effential  ingredients  in  good 
language,  are  rather  the  efFe£l  of  a  cultivated  tafte,  than  of 
a  cultivated  underftanding.  And  though  we  may  be  obliged 
to  give  up  the  former,  it  is  not  necefl'ary,  on  that  account,  to 
give  up  all  pretenfions  to  the  latter.  On  the  contrary,  the 
parifli  contains  a  body  of  men  very  refpeftable  for  their  know- 
ledge and  education,  if  their  circumftvinces  and  purfuits  la 
life  be  properly  attended  to. 

Provincial  CharoHer, — ^Thc  charafter  of  the  inhabitants  of 
iBuchan,  m  genera),  fcen?!i  to  differ  confiderably  from  that  of 
the  inhabitants  of  the  other  counties,  and  even  of  the  other 
diftrifts  of  the  fame  county.  They  have  not  theit  livelinefa 
of  imagination,  nor  their  warmth  of  feeling.    They  feem  to 

occupy 


7^  StatiJHcal  Account 

occupy  a  pbcc  in  the  fcale  of  national  chamber  nearer  tli^ 
phlegm  of  Dutchmen,  than  the  other  inhabitants  of  Scotland 
m  general.  The  writer  of  the  prefent  article  was  forcibly 
firuck  with  this  obfervation,  when  he  firft  fettled  in  the  pa* 
flfh-;  and  its  truth  has  been  confirmed  by  a  few  years  expc* 
rience.  He  has  frequently  attempted  to  account  for  it.  Al- 
though political  inditutions  have  a  greater  influence  on 
general  charaScr  than  almoft  any  other  caufc,  yet  the  ap- 
pearance of  a  country  operates  with  an  uniform  and  unceaf* 
ing»  and  therefore  with  a  very  powerful  efTe^);  on  the  minds 
of  its  inhabitants.  And  it  is  to  thjs  canfe  that  the  peculiari- 
ty of  charader  above*mentioned  may,  perhaps,  in  a  great 
meafurc,  be  afcribed.  A  conftant  uniformity  in  the  appear- 
ances of  nature  around  us,  gives  no  fcope  for  that  violent  a- 
gitation,  which  fo  frequently  takes  place  in  the  breads  of 
Swifs  and  Scotchmen,  when  tliey  contemplate  their  moun- 
tains, their  woods,  and  their  precipices.  Our  mental  con^^ 
ftitution,  therefore,  naturally  fettles  into  a  fpecies  of  unifor- 
mity, analogous  to  the  country  which  we  inhabit ;  and  the 
lefs  elevated  and  romantic  emotions,  raifed  by  intereft  and 
mutual  intercourfe,  take  the  lead  in  forming  the  charaAcr. 
Such  feems  to  be  the  cafe  with  the  inhabitants  of  tJiis  corn* 
cr  of  Scotland,'  The  confequences  are,  fewer  charafier^ 
very  ftrongly  marked,  and  more  difficulty  in  changing  men- 
tal habits.  In  this  refpefl,  there  exifts  a  (Irong  finiilarity  be- 
tween the  charaftcr  of  the  boors  in  Holland,  and  that  of  the 
peafants  in  this  part  of  Scotland.  The  latter,  however,  pof- 
fefs  a  greater  (hare  of  general  knowledge ;  the  former  a  far 
more  intimate  and  accurate  acquaintance  with  their  own  par- 
ticular department*  -  It  is  betwecij  thcfc  two  clafles  that  a 
comparifon,  with  regard  to  provincial  and  national  charac^ 
ter,  can  be  inftituted  with  the  greateft  propriety.     B;;caufei 

knowledge 


$fLongfide.  t^ 

kfiowledge  and  eztenGve  mtercoorfe  generally  bring  ^  }4gb* 
er  ranks  nearly  to  a  lerei  iaall  countries  ;  es^cepl^  jq  fr^^^  Pf^* 
ticularsj  which  are  not  very  efiential  tacharader.  Jit  will  be 
teadily  perceived  that  this  is  a  fubjef^  perfe£Uy  diftijqi^  ^ovol 
that  of  moral  anicl  rtligious  chara£ler|  wlwch  iMBcn^l^ed  ia 
vnother  part  of  die  prc&nt  articki    - 


\ii  i?tTMBSlU 


«"^. 


29?  Stat^ical  Account 

NUMBER    XVIII. 

tTNITED    PARISHES    of    SOUTH 
RONALDSAT  and  BURRAY- 

XPtll£aBTT£RY   OV  O&KMET,  StNOB  AND  CoUNTT  OV  OBX** 

NET.) 

J[y  ^il^^  Rev.  Mr  James  Watson,  Minijler. 


Situation  and  Extent* 

DotJTH  Ronaldfay  is  a  populous  ifland  in  the  moft  fouth- 
eni'' extremity  of  the  cxjunty  of  Orkney,  abopit  6  miles  long 
"wd  3  miles  broad,  in  which  thei%  are  two  pariihes,  called 
~Sauth  pariih  and  North  parifh  of  South  Ronaldfay.  It  proba- 
bly derives  its  name  from  Ronald,  a  Danifli  Count,  and  South 
is  prefixed  to  diftinguiQi  it  from  North  Ronaldfay,  the  moft 
nothem  ifland  in  Orkney.  South  Ronaldfay  is  bounded  by 
<hc  Pentland  Firth  on  the  South  and  Weft,  by  the  German 
Ocean  on  the  Eaft,  and  by  Ac  Ferry  of  Water  Sound,  about  a 
mile  J>road,  which  divides  it  from  Burray,  on  the  North. 
There  is  a  fmall  ifland,  about  a  mile  longt  and  half  a  mile 
broad,  called  Swinna,  lying  tiear  the  middle  of  the  Pentland 
Firth,  containing  2i  fouls,  which  makes  a  part  of  the  South 
pariQi  South  Ronaldfay.  It  is  feparated  from  South  Ronald- 
lay 


tf  Shutb  Ronald/ay  and  Surrayi  199 

fay  by  a  branch  of  the  Pcntland  Firth,  thro^gh  which  (hips  of 
any  burden  may  pafs.  Swinna  is  a  barren  inhofpitable  iflandy 
expofed  on  all  fides  to  the  utmoft  rage  of  the  Pentlind  Firth. 
What  probably  induced  any  perfon  at  firft  to  dwell  in  it,  was 
the  hope  of  high  wages  from  pilotage.  Though,  ac  new 
and  full  moon,  tlie  tide  runs  againft  this  iiUnd  at  the  rate 
of  nine  miles  an  hour,  yet  there  are  few  inftances  of  wrecks 
on  it :  For  the  refiftance  which  the  rocks  give  to  the  violence 
of  the  large  current,  produces  a  f mall  current  running  along 
its  (hore  to  each  end  of  the  ifland  :  Thus,  it  gives  to  many 
a  trembling  mariner  a  mod  agreeable  difappointment.  When 
the  ftrong  large  tide  carries  him  fo  near,  that  he  every  mo- 
ment expefis  his  bowfprit  to  (Irike  againft  the  rocks,  and  his 
veflcl  to  fall  to  pieces  under  him,  he  is  delightfully  furprifed 
to  feci  a  current  coming  from  Swinna,  which  turns  him  a-' 
bout  in  a  moment,  and  fafely  condu£ts  him  round  its  terri- 
fying rocks. 

Burray  is  an  ifland  about  4  miles  long  and  one  mile  broad, 
bounded  by  Water  Sound  on  the  South ;  Holm  Sound,  3  mile* 
broad,  which  feparates  it  from  the  pariih  of  Holm,  on  the 
North ;  and  the  German  Ocean  on  the  Eaft;  Thefe  pariflie^ 
are  a  part  of  the  presbytery  ef  Kirkwall,  and  fynod  of  Ork« 
ney.  Befidea  the  three  inhabited  iflands  above  mentioned, 
there  are,  within  the  bounds  of  thefe  pariflies,  three  uninha- 
bited green  iflands  called  Glemfholm,  Horda,  near  Burray, 
and  Pentland  Skerry,  about  ^  miles  South  from  Sputh  Ronr 
aldfay,  near  the  middle  of  the  Eaft  end  of  the  Pentland 
Firth.  On  thefe  iflcs,  each  of  which  is  about  a  mile  long, 
and  half  a  mik  broad,  iheep  and  cattle  are  fed.  There  is  a 
light-houfe  to  be  ere£led  this  year  on  the  Pentland  Skerry, 
which  will  unqueftionably  be  attended  with  manifold  advan- 
|agcs  to  the  dipping,  coming  to  the  Pentland  Firth,  through 

Q  q  ^  vhich 


go*  Statiftical  Accouj^ 

which|  It  U  tompatedj  there  pafs^  at  ao  average^  nine  T^fleh 
^ilj.  Near  tlu8  Pentland  Skeiry,  there  are  two  or  three 
Other  flcexries  or  rocksi  on  which  there  is  not  nourifliment 
for  any  tame  Uvii^  creature. 

S&il  and  P^diiAr^.-rrThe  arable  ground  in  thefe  ifles  is  Tttuated 
^long  the  Chores.  The  foil  in  Swinna  is  fhallow,  compoied  of 
fome  bUck  earth,  gravel,  and  fand»  The  feil  of  Burray  may, 
in  generalj  be  called  a  light  dry  fand,  mixed  in  a  few  places 
with  fome  coarfe  clay.  In  the  month  of  July,  the  bear  *an4 
oats  in  it  promife  a  rich  crop  ;  but  in  Augull  or  September, 
when  the  ear  demands  a  greater  degree  of  nourifliment,  it  id 
refufed ;  the  confequence  pf  which  is,  that  the  grain  is  ill  fil- 
led, fmall,  and  hungry.  But  in  no  part,  perhaps  of  the  king- 
dom, can  there  be  fcen  a  richer  or  more  beautiful  crop  of 
natural  grafs  mixed  with  white  and  red  clover.  Potatoes^ 
turnips,  peafe,  onions,  carrots,  cabbages,  grow  on  it  to  great 
perfe^iiph.  It  is  the  fole  property  of  Sir  Thomas  Dundas, 
and  it  is  let  in  tacks  to  his  fador^  who  has  very  much  im- 
proved his  breed  pf  cattle,  by  raifing  a  great  abundance  of  as 
excellent  turnips  as  cai\  be  found  in  Scotland.  Glim{holm» 
and  particularly  B.tnrray,  abounds  with  rabbiu.  It  is  com- 
puted, that  they  produce  annually  about  aopo  ikins.  The 
foil  of  South  Ronaldfay  is  extremely  various  in  different 
parts  of  the  illand,  and  even  different  in  the  fame  field.  It 
confifts  of  clay,  black  loams,  fand,  and  mofe.  In  fome  pla* 
ces,  the  fpil  is  of  an  excellent  quality,  but  almpft  every  wh^re 
(hallow.  In  all  the  Orkney  ifles,  the  plough  generally  touches 
a  rocky  or  gravelly  bottom.  For  want  of  inclofUrers,  there 
is  no  fbwn  grais :— But  large  quantities  of  ground  have,  from 
time  immemorial,  been  lef't  to  produce  natural  grafs,  on 
\trldch  die  horfes  and  cattle  are  tied  throughout  the  fum-* 

mcr,. 


^  South  Rottobyiv  ond  Bar  ray.  ^f^ 

inert  a  part  being  refervcd  fipr  natural  hay^  which  is  ufed  iri 
ViAter  aod  fpring. 

f  Prefini  Ztati  if  Agriculture. — ^Iti  thcfc  iflcs  farmiag  is  in  a 

very  rude  ftate  indeed.  The  hand  of  art  gives  little  afliiU 
tance  to  that  nature.  Almoft  every  £af  mer  is  a  fifher,  and 
a  kelp  manufadurer.    The  fame  man  may  be  feen»  in  ^  Jo* 

Ily  morning,  cairying  earth  to  his  dunglnil  \  in  the  forenoonn 
catching  fi(h  in  the  fea ;  and,  in  the  afternoon,  burning  kcjp. 
pn  the  ihore.  Some  of  the  pooreft  people  dig  their  grouij^ 
with  a  bit  of  iron  about  .3  inches  broad^  fixed  on  the  end  of 
a  long  ftick.  Fallowing  is  not  ufed  :  there  is  no  change  of 
feed  :  there  is  no  proper  rotation  of  crops.  Small  bear  or 
bigf  and  black  oats,  have  been  fown  alternately  pn  the  fan^e 
(ield  for  feveral  hundred  years.    The  fecd-oats  ixever  enter 

I  ^nto  a  riddle,  but  are  held  up  to  the  wind  ei^er  in  a  man's 

hands,  or  in  a  creel,  called  a  cofie,  made  of  ftraw.  Xh^ 
bear  feed  is  put  through  a  riddle,  but  the  fmall  grains  ^e 

;  not  feparated  from  it  with  any  degree  of  care.    Every  far- 

rier has  a  ridge  of  pot^oes,  which  he  giants  with  Ikill,  aud 
weeds  with  great  care  \  and  he  is  abundantly  repaid.     One 

f  half  of  his  farm  ia  fown  with  oats,  which  being  generally 

full  of  weeds,  gives  a  very  poor  return ;  the  other  half  with 

!  bear,  which,  being  manured  with  plenty  of  rich  farm  dung 

pr  fcs^-weed,  yields  a  tolerable  crop,  ^fhe  plough  has  two 
(lilts,  and  is  drawn  by  four  horfes  yoked  in  pairs.  Many  of 
the  farmers,  ufe  harrows  with  wooden  teeth,  which  are  drawn 

I  not  diagonally,  but  with  tlie  broad  fide  foremoft,  by  a  rope 

I  fixed  in  the  middle  of  the  harrow.     The  plough,  which  is 

fo  light  that  a  man  can  lift  it  in  his  lund  with  eafe,  turns  tlie 
ground  very  imperfeflly.     It  requires  all  the  ploughman's 

ftrencth  to  keep  it  in  the  ground.    And  the  force  which  be 

*  applies 


I 


^2  Statijikal  Account 

applies  for  this  purpofe,  occafions  as  hard  a  pull  to  the  horfes 
as  if  the  plough  was  of  a  heavier  make.  If  tva  or  three  hor- 
fes or  oxen  be  yoked  in  the  harrows^  there  is  a  perfon  ap- 
pointed to  lead  each  horfe  or  ox.  Sometimes  the  horfos, 
and  fometimes  the  women,  carry  out  on  their  backs,  in  creels 
made  of  ftraw,  called  cafies>  the  dung  to  the  fields.  Though 
the  poft  goes  iveekly  South  and  North  through  thefe  parifties 
of  Ronaldfay  and  Burrayi  yet  there  never  was  a  road  made 
in  either.  Of  confequenc^  few  carts  are  ufed.  It  is  no  un- 
common thing  to  fee  fix  perfons  with  fix  horfes,  carrying  to 
the  mill  three  bolls  of  bear. 

The  tenants  in  general  are  tenants  at  wiH.    South  Ro* 
naldfay  belongs  to  33  different  proprietors,  few  of  irfhom*  re- 
Cde  in  it.     In  tlie  mixture  of  their  property,  there  is  a  kind 
of  regular  confufion,  which  bids  defiance  to  inclofures,  and 
flifles  the  very  idea  of  improvement.    In  winter,  the  horfes 
and  cattle  wander  through,  a^d  poach  the  fields,  and  many 
hundreds  of  hogs  arc  digging  holes  and  ditches  in  them,  and 
in  the  meadow  ground,  by  night  and  by  day.     Some  farm- 
ers in  Burray  fowed.  fomc  of  their  fields  about  two  years  a- 
go  with  oats,  without  any  other  ploughing  than  what  they 
received  from  the  nofcs  of  the  hogs.     And  they  were  of  o- 
pinion,  that  as  it  was  a  light  fandy  foil,  they  had  a  better  crop, 
and  fewer  weeds,  than  if  they  had  turned  it  up  with  the 
plou^.    The  fcafon  for  fowing  oats  is  generally  iri  April, 
for  bear  in  May  5  and  they  are  reaped  in  September  and  Oc- 
tober.    Amidil  all  the  errors  in  farming  already  mentioned, 
there  is  one  practice  in  harveft  prevails  in  thefe  parifhes, 
which  the  writer  gladly  begs  leave  to  recommend  to  the  at« 
tention  of  thofc  in  the  Highlands  of  Scotland,  or  wherever 
the  crop  is  in  danger  of  being  rotted  by  rain  \  and  it  is  this  : 
every  (heaf,  after  it  is  cut,  is  bound,  and  fet  on  its  end,  in  a 
kind  of  triangular  pofition,  the  crop  broke  gently  down }  if 

they 


of  South  Ronaldfay  and  Burr  ay.         303 

they  are  tumbled  ovej  by  a  gale  of  wihd»  they  are  fet  up  a« 
before  j  wheo  tolerably  dry,  they  are  put  together  in  one,  two, 
QX  three  thraves,  more  or  lefs,  according  to  the  drynefs,  and 
built  on  the  field  in  the  fame  round  form,  as  in  the  barn- 
yard^ but  more  loofely,  for  admitting  air ;  on  the  top  they 
are  placed  very  (lompadi,  and  faftened  to  each  other,  to  pre- 
vent their  falling.  By.thefe  means,  the  invention  of  necef* 
fity,  in  a  damp,  rainy  climate,  an  Orkney  farmer,  though  it 
(hould  have  rained  in  the  forenoon,  can  carry  his  grain  from 
his  field  to  his  bam-yard  in  the  afternoon ;  a^d  he  often  does 
it  with  (afety. 

Climaiei — ^It  admits  of  no  doubt  that  fmall  ifles,  in  fuch  a 
high  latitude,  are  blefied  with  a  pure  air,  and  a  wholefome 
climate.  Of  confequence,  the  inhabitants  enjoy  perhaps  a 
better  ftate  of  health,  without  the  phyGcians  aid,  than  thofe 
of  Mid-Lothian  or  Middlefex.  The  climate  of  Orkney  dif- 
fers not  much  from  that  of  other  places  on  the  £aft  and 
North  Eaft  coaft  of  Scotland,  but  owing  to  fdme  local  caufei, 
it  is  more  uncertain  and  variable.  For  three  months  in  fam- 
mer  the  weather  is  generally  fettled,  and  the  fea  ferene.  £• 
very  creature  by  land  and  water  is  in  motion,  and  appears 
happy.  In  Jane,  the  rays  of  the  fun  feem  unwilling  to  de« 
part.  They  rttire  riOt  above  half  an  hour.  At  this  fealbn, 
when  the  fun  dips  into  the  Atlantic,  the  appearance  of  nu- 
merous rocks  and  ifles  fcattered  through  the  ocean,  the  mo- 
tion of  boats  and  ihips  innumerable,  thoufands  of  cattle, 
grazing  on  the  land,  and  many  more  thoufands  of  fi(hes» 
great  and  fmall,  jumping  in  the  water,  prefents  a  fcene  tru- 
ly delightful,  and  awfully  grand.  But  fometimes,  in  Auguft 
or  September,  a  ftrong.gale  of  wind  fuddenly  changes  this 
icene  into  fadnefs.  The  fame  fofce  of  wind,  which,  in  the 
interior  parts  of  Scotland;  produces  no  bad  efie&>  is,  among 

narrow 


3^4  Statifiical  Accoimi 

narrow  iflands>  waflied  o|i  aD  fides  by  jhe  German  and  At-^ 
lantic  oceanst  attended  with  material  injury  to  boats,  fbips^ 
and  the  growing  com.  The  fea,  arHuigfrom  its  bed,  da&es  a- 
gainft  the  rocks :— the  winds  waft  its  fptay  over  the  furface  of 
the  ides :— and  thus  the  ctop,  Bbum  Labores^  the  hufbandmac^c 
fupport  and  hope  throughout  the  year,  is  blafted  in  an  hour^ 
Boats  are  overfet,  (hips  are  wrecked,  and  the  hardy  marinerf 
jpcrifli. 

White  are  tlie  decks  with  foam,  the  winds  aloud 

Howl  o^er  the  niafts,  ahd  fing  through  every  fhroud ; 

Pale,  trembling,  tit'd,  the  failors  freeze  with  iears. 

And  inftant  death  on  every  wave  appears. 
Lands  on  a  Weft  or  South  Weft  expofure  are  moft  Kable  ttt 
damages  from  this  catife.  Aftet  a  ftorm  of  this  kind,  the 
flalk  of  oats  or  bear  whitens,  confumes,  and  dies.  But  if  the 
ftorm  has  not  been  very  violent,  and  if  it  be  immediately  fuc-^ 
ceeded  by  rain,  many  of  the  ftalks  recover  their  colour,  and 
part  of  their  former  vigour.  '  Even  the  natural  grafs  efcapes 
not  altogether  unhurt.  There  is  lefs  froft  and  fnow,  and  a 
mote  eqi^al  temperature^  as  to  heat  and  cold,  in  Orkney,  thail 
can  be  found  perhaps  in  any  other  county  of  Scotland; 

/forfci/rx.— Widcwall  bay  lies  on  the  Weft  fide  of  South 
ftonald&y,  and  has  a  good  opening  to  the  Pentland  Ftith 
and  to  Strothnefs«  Ships  of  500  or  600  tolls  burden^  parti- 
cularly thofe  from  the  Baltic,  Weftward  bound,  frequently 
Ttde  in  it  with  fafety.  On  the  North  end  of  the  hmz  iflandi 
there  is  another  harbour,  caUed  St  Margaret  s  Hope,  whidi^ 
for  fmall  vefieb,  is  one  of  the  fafeft  and  beft  in  the  kingdom^ 
It  is  much  frequented  by  lobfter  fmacks,  belonging  to  M^ 
Selby  and  Co.  London^  and  to  the  Kortumberlaild  ft(hingSa« 
ciety.  For  a  confiderable  time  paft,  different  Engltfli  Cosi* 
panics  have  profectfted  this  fiflieryt  and,  ftrange  to  tell !  it  is 

tht 


of  South  Rondidfay  a^d  iurtaj.       ^  Jjoj 

ihfc  only  fifliery  ftat  is  profecutcd  m  Orkney.  This  fiftiing 
generally  begins  in  March,  and  continues  imtil  June  ?  begind 
again  in  Ofteber,  and  continues  until  December.  Orkney- 
men  are  employed  to -catch  the  lobfters,  and  the  frtiacks  call 
weekly  to  receive  them.  They  cannot  be  caught  in  the  day 
time.  Two  men  in  a  fmall  boat^  in  the  nighty  may  catch 
ftom  50  to  100,  more  or  lefs*  each  night,  and  they  teceivi 
for  each  ^  farthings.  This  fifhery  unqueftionably  brings  mo- 
iiy  into  the  country ;  but  as  thfe  fiihers  are  employed  in  it  i 
part  of  the  year,  and  le&rn,  dUritig  the  other  part  of  it,  hai 
bits  of  idlenefs  and  extravagance,  it  is,  upon  the  wholes  doubt- 
ful whether  it  be  ufeful  or  not  to  the  country. ' 

High  Rods  ami  Curiour  5)fc^^-^In  South  Ronaldfay  thcri 
arc  three  headlands  or  toeks,  prefenting  a  bold  front  to  the 
ocean,  called  Barfick  Head,  on  the  wteft  fide  $  Halero  Head 
.  and  Stores  Head,  on  the  eaft  fide,  each  about  250  feet  per. 
pendicular  above  the  level  of  the  Tea.  There  is  a  fihall  ftone 
ere£^d  in  Sandwlck,  another  near  Stores,  and  a  Urge  bn^ 
near  the  manfe,  about  14  feet  high,  2  feet  broad,  ahd  tf 
inches  thick*  About  thefe  ftone^  conje£iurti  is  Glentj  and  e- 
ven  tradition  tells  liot  a  lie. 

jintiqttiiies.'^The  Roman  Catholic  Keligioii  had  once  i 
firm  footing  in  thefe  Ifles.  In  thofe  days.  South  Ronald* 
fay  was  the  deanery  pi  Orkney,-  and  its  clergyman  provoft  o£ 
the  cathedral;  There  are  yet  to  be  feen  in  this  iflarid  the 
ruins  of  7  old  chapels,  it  if  believed  that  fome  of  them 
Xverc  ere£l^ed  by  mariners,  who,  dcfpaiting  of  life  in  icmfiefU 
at  fea^  vowed  to  build  a  church  on  their  arrival  at  the  firft 
harbour. 

At  the  chapel  near  St  Mai^aret's  tlope,  burnt  earth  anil 
ft^nes,  pieces  of  deer's  horns,  and  human  boocij  have  beed 

R  t  frequently 


3o6  Stati/lical  Account 

frequently  dug  up.  There  arc  alfo  fome  remain$  of  Pi£li(h 
houfcsi  and  watch-^cwers,  in  difitrent  parts  of  the  ifland* 
But,  in  treating  on  this  fubjefl,  the  inquifitive  mind  every 
where  meets  with  darkncfs  vifible. 

MilL — ^There  is  plenty  of  good  fpring  well  water  in  thefc 
pariiliesy  but  not  fo  abundant  as  to  form  a  lake  or  river.  A« 
bout  5  or  6  months  yearly^  the  mills  are  fupplied  with  water 
by  rain  from  the  heavens.  There  is  one  water  mill  in  Bur- 
ray  ;  but  that  ifiand  U  fo  dry  that  it  is  feldom  able  to  grind 
much  of  the  fubteiiants  grain.  For  this  purpofe,  they  muit 
crofs  over  ftas  y  suidy  to  coihfort  them  in  thi»  labour,  they 
muft  pay  multure  at  the  mill  where  they  grind,  and  alfo  at 
their  own,  where  they  cannot  grind.  There  are  4  water 
mills  in  South  Ronaldfay,  at  which  the  12th  part  of  oats» 
and  the  14th  of  bear^  aie  paid.'  The  two  wind-miils,  lately 
ere£ted  in  it, grind  bear  only,  and  are  paid  with  tlie  16th  part* 
Kelp  is  made  from  die  weed&  which  grow  below  the  flood 
water  mark,  of  which  there  ars  4  diSerent  fpecics,  technical- 
ly named,  and  accursftely  diftinguifbed,  by  Linnaeus.  As  the 
fea  ebbsi  thefe  weeds  are  cut  with  hooks,  carried  above  the 
flood  water  mark  on  barrows,  ami,  after  being  fpread  and 
dried,  they  are  burnt  in  a  round  hole  dug  in  the  ear^,  built 
about  witii  ftones.  *  The  fubftance  extradied  by  burning 
from  thefe  weedd,  in  its  liquid. (late,  fomewhat  refembles  tar, 
or  melted  lead.  When  cool,  it  becomes  hard  as  the  folid 
rock.  It  is  ufed  in  the  manufa£hire  of  foap,  allum,  coarfe 
and  fine  glafs,  &Cr  Thcte  are  abfout  125  tons  of  kelp  made 
amiually  in  thefe  pari(he9.  This  is  a  valuable  fource  of  wealth 
to  thefe  ifles  \  and  could  a  method  be  found  out,  during  the 
burning  operation,  to  preferve  the  kelp  in  a  found  (late,  and 
at  the  fame  time  free  from  impure  mixtures  of  iearth,  fand, 
and  ftonesj  it  would  very  confiderably  extend  its  ufe^  and  en-* 

hance 


9f  South  Ronald/ay  and  Burray.  30 jr 

b^nce  its  price.   This  is  a  great  defideratum,  for  which  Ork- 
ney ought  to  give  a  thoufand  guineas  as  a  premium. 

Ecciejiajflcai  SiaU  ofihefe  Parijhes. — Sir  Thomas  Dundas  of 
Kerfe»  Baronet,  is  patron.  There  is  a  new  manfe  and  offices 
building,  by  the  authority,  and  under  the  dire£lIon  of  the 
Court  t)f  Seflion.  The  church  of  the  South  parifli  was  re- 
built  about  5  years  ago.  The  church 'of  Burray  neevls 
fomc  repair.  The  North  pariOi  church  walls  have  for  feve- 
ral  years  ftood  without  a  roof,  cxpofed  to  all  the  winds  of 
heaven.     There  never  was  a  parochial  fchool  in  the  charge. 

Lady  Charlotte  Pundas  has,  within  thefe  lafl  feven  years, 
with  a  liberal  hujuanity,  exerted  herfelf  to  promot<*  fome  ufe- 
fol  plan  of  education.  For  this  purpofe^  (he  has  repeatedly 
fent  quantities  of  writing  paper,  and  a  variety  of  well  chofen 
bpoks  to  the  minifter,  to  \it  diftribu^ed  aniong  (h^  poor  and 
ignorant.  William  Jamifon,  Efq;  a  native  of  South  parifli 
$outh  Ronaldfay,  who  went  abput  34  years  ago  toHudfon^s 
Bay,  where  he  ilill  rcCdes  a^  9  faftor  fpr  the  Cpmpany, 
wrote  laft  year  to  Andrew  Graham,  Efq*,  hid  friend  and  ar 
gent  in  Edinburgh,  and  alfo  to  the  minifter,  to  appropriate 
20 1.  Sterling  a  year,  as  a  falary  to  a  fchooln^afler  in  the  pa- 
rifli where  he  was  born.  There  are  no  diflentcrs  or  fcflarics 
of  any  kind  in  thcfe  parilhes.  No  mifchief  is  dreaded  here, 
(either  from  the  flame  c^  fanaticifm^  or  the  fire  of  fedition. 
Inftead  of  fe£laries,  eager  about  building  new  churches,  there 
is  generally  a  law  fuit,  at  the  inftance  of  the  minifter,  for  re- 
pairing or  rebuilding  the  old  ones.  The  greatcft  part  of  the 
minifter's  ftipend  i^  paid  in  kind,  principally  in  bear  and  but- 
fen  The  yearly  average  value  of  it  may  be  called  ^5  L  Stcrr 
ling. 

ii  r  a  .  .PAPULATIONS 


ta9  Siaiiftiatl  Acc§w$$ 

Population, 

No.  «f  famtlies  in  South  HoQ^IdTAy*  •                  -  S74 

-— ^  ibult  in  ditto                     ^  •  1^15 

-— -  fouls  io  3un'»T                              •                          •  3>' 

*— p-  fouls  iq  Swion^                  •  -  %i 

Total  number  in  the  charge    1954 

^0.  of  b«pu(ins  in  South  Hooaldfay  for  1791  are  44 

*                      — —:— >     ■     — ''»'  for  i7y»  an  36 

1.          TT — ■ for  1793  «»                    I      4« 

Maryiagcs  in  it                     for  1791  are  !• 

;  ■  ■  I  '           —                    for  1 79*  arc  4 

y  ■     >■  ■                —                    for  1793  '     are  % 


\a  thf  South  parifli  of  Spnth  RxwahUay  the  No  of  fouls  ara  547 

|n  the  ^QTth  pariih  of  ditto                    -               •            •  104I 

Males                      ...  ^7^ 

Temales               •                               -                       -  48} 

Children  under  ^  years  of  age                  -                  *  288 

Faluid  Rent,  Sfoclj  5#r.— The  valued  rent  of  South  Ron- 
fldfay^  Burray,  and  Swinna  is  35 12 1.  Scots.  It  is  extremely 
difficult  to  ftate  with  precifion  the  real  rent,  as  it  is  paid  iiv 
money,  in  bear,^  malt,  meal ;  in  butter,  oil,  hogs,  gecfe^  hens, 
9nd  ferviccs.  By  a  rough  calculation,  the  prefcnt  yearly  rent 
^f  thefe  parifhesi  includmg  kelp,  may  be  called  1500  L  Ster- 
ling- 

The  Na  of  hotCea  in  Sovth  Ronaldiay  are  •  674 

No.  of  carts  in  ditto  r                      *                           >3> 

No.  of  cows  in  dittc^           .  .                  •                 4jj( 

No.  of  iheep  in  ditto.  •                       •                       746 

No.  of  hogs  in  ditto           .  •                      •          340 

No.  of  fiihing  boau  in  ditto  •                 «                         51 

If  q.  of  flocks  and  geei^  -                   •                 ao 

No*  of  ankers  of  fpiriu  confomed  yearly  in  ditto  '  •           yjo 

f  rices  of  Labour^  ProviftqnSf  &c. — ^Thc  wages  for  a  prin- 
cipal man  fexyant  for  farmiftgi  i»  yearly  from  3  L  to  4  i.  Stcr? 


of  South  JbuaMfay  ^ni  Surray.  30^ 

ling ;  for  an  ordinary  nan  fervant,  from  2  gHineas  to  50 1 1 
for  a  boy»  horn  ao  s.  to  25  s  ^  for  a  female  fervaoi  for  farm- 
ing, a  guinea.  In  harveft»  a  man  fcrrant  12  a.  to  15  Sv ;  a 
female  fervant»  for  harTeft,  from  5  s.  to  7  9.  There  is  tittle 
or  no  dtmzni  for  day-labourers,  and  when  there  is,  few  or 
none  can  be  found.  Sometimes  they  arc  paid  'with  4  d, 
fometimes  with  6d,  and  Yiftuals  four  times  each  day. 

The  fmaii  horlcs,  generally  brought  to  theje  partflies  from 
Csuthnefs,  and  Strathnaver,  only  one  year  old,  are  bought  at 
from  2 1,  to  5  }•  Sterling  $  and  they  are  begun  to  work  when 
two  years  old.  After  eight  years  of  age,  or  more,  they  are 
generally  ibid  ag^n  at  nearly  the  fame  prices  to  tlie  inhabi- 
tants of  the  countries  from  whence  they  came«  The  price 
of  an  ox,  when  young,  that  will  weighs  about  18  flone, 
is  from  3 1.  to  4 1.  Sterling  ;^of  a  young  cow  that  will  weigh 
about  1 5  ftone,  from  50  s-  to-}  L  Sterling  )  a  wedder  5  s. 
or  ds;  a  lamb  2Qd«  oras)  a  hog  from  6 s*  to  10s;  a 
goefe  I  s.  or  (  8.  2d }  a  hen  jd,  or  6d }  a  doaen  o(  eggs  2d, 
and  2|  V  a  ftone  of  potatoes  3d ;  a  (tone  of  oatmeal  18.4^; 
of  bear  meal  i  s.  2d  ;  ailone  of  malt  i  s }  a  ftone  of  wool 
los^  or  12  s;  a  ftone  of  butt^  <s ;  a  ftone  of  cheefe  ftrom 
3  s.  to  4*s ;  a  pound  of  beef,  which  can  only  be  got  from 
Lambmasto  MartinmaS|  at  i^. 

Mi/cellaneo^.  R^marks^'^r^Therc  is  one  fioop  belonging  to 
South  Ronaldfay,  which  each  fpring  carries  fait  beef,  pork» 
hides»  tallow,  yam,  butter,  geefe,  value  about  60 1.  SterKngi 
to  Leith,  the  produce  of  thefe  parilhes,  and  brings  back  mer- 
c^nt  goods.  During  the  futi(»mer  (he  is  freighted  with  kc^ 
to  Dundee,  Leith,  New  Caftle,  Hull,  &c. 

There  are  5  or  4  merchants  at  the  village  of  St.  Margarsts 
liope,  in  ^k>tttfa  •Ronaid(ky. 

Hiere  is  one  Robert  Cromarty,  an  exoellent  weav^er  of  (a* 
Ifle  fifths  anffioe  Unen :  There  ztc  6  odm  weavers  o£coarfe 

ri(he8 


^i#  Stati/lical  AtictuiU 

fluff:  There  are  four  blackfmitbs,  and  6  or  7  coblera.  Vaf 
^  employers  of  the  fjormfer  nwft  furaifli  iron  and  coals^ 
and  <^  the  latter,  hemp  and  leather.  There  are  in  thefe  pa- 
Ti(bes  a  indificT^t,  and  i  tolerably  good  inns }  the  houfes  for 
filing  ale  and  fpirit$  are  by  far  too  numerous*  There  ace 
alfo  one  good  fquare  wrigbt,  and  3  or  four  of  inferior  ikiU : 
There  are  2  fidlers,  and  one  piperi  who  profefles  by  meai^s 
pf  his  muficy  to  baniOi  the  rats  from  their  habitations.  Their 
IS  one  notary  public,  who  ha^  property  in  South  RonaUfay, 
and  occaGonaly  refides  in  it.  CorbjeSi  jcrows,  and  qfteii 
eagiesy  axe  found  in  thefe  pariihes:  They  often  do  coq- 
fiderable  damage  to  the  com,  lambs,  and  poultry.  Gulls, 
icarfs,  ]cttty-weaks,  rock-pidgeons,  plovers,  fnipes,  folqn 
gee(c,  ktrks,  tails,  and  ducks  of  all  kinds,  abound.  There  arp 
po  hares  or  foxes  to  be  found,  and  it  is  faid  they  cannot  liye 
in  Orkney*  There  is  no  inftance  reniembered  of  a  dog  beii^ 
mad :  Muir  fowl  are  numerous  in  many  ifles  of  this  coun- 
|ry»  but  for  wa^nt  qf  ^leathy  few  or  none  can  be  foupd  ix)  tbf  fq 
pariQi^S! 

F\Jhis. — Cod,  ling,  (kate,  turbet,  haddocks,  Cilocks,  quith^ 
pr  cuddens,  lobfters,  cockles,  are  found  around  thefe  illes  in 
fuch  abundance,  that  almoft  every  perfon  fuppiies  l}imfelf^ 
and  few  or  none  are  fold-  The  price  offered  by  the  pnrcha- 
fer  is  not  a  fufEcient  compenfation  for  the  labour  and  ex- 
pence  of  the  ii(her.  On  account  of  the  high  duties  on  fait, 
very  few  indeed  are  cured  fqr  market.  Confequently  thofe 
who  do  not  fi(h,  or  have  no  (hare  of  a  boat,  are  at  all  times 
ill  fupplied,  and  in  ftqrmy  weather,  even  thofe  who  do  fifli, 
mud  reft  fatisfied  with  the  four  fifii,  which  are  dried  by  tho 
fun  and  air,  or  by  the  fmoke  and  fire  i^  their  houfes.  In 
July  and  Augufl,  (hoals  of  herrings,  numerous  as  the  fam) 
on  the  fea  ihore,  are  feen  around  thefe  parifhes  ^  but  for  want 
of  nets,  (alt,  Sccnone  are  caught  or  cured  here.  .  . 


^  Stmtb  KonaJdfqy  arid  Surray.  31 1 

CburaBer  and  Manners  tf  the  PeopU-^Thttt  arc  few  <jr 
no  inibmccs'of  any  perfons  being  conTiSed  of  capital  crimes) 
but  petty  theft  is  very  frequent.  There  Arc  no  Juftice$ 
of  Peace  to  punifli  this  vice ;  and  if  there  were,  it  would  be 
extremely  difficult  to  convid  the  delinquent  5  becaufe  there 
is  a  very  general  belief,  that  who(bever  is  concerned  iat 
bringing  die  guilty  to  punilhmcnt,  will  never  thrive. 

Within  thcfe  laft  fevcn  years,  the  minifter  has  been  twice 
interrupted  in  admtniftering  baptifm  to  a  female  child^  be«* 
fore  /the  male  child,  who  was  baptized  immediately  af-' 
ter.  When  the  fervice  was  over,  he  was  gravely  told,  that 
he  had  done  very  wrong,  for  as  the  female  child  was  fiift 
baptized,  Oie  would,  on  her  coming  to  the  years  of  difoe* 
cretion,  mod  certainly  have  a  ftrong  beard,  and  th€  boy 
would  have  none.  No  couple  chufes  to  marry  except  with 
a  growing  moon,  and  fome  even  wifli  for  a  flowing  tide. 
The  exiftcnce  of  fairies  and  witches  is  ferioufly  believed  by 
fome,  who,  in  order  to  prote£l  themfelves  from  their  attacks, 
draw  imaginary  circles,  and  place  knives  in  ihc  walls  of 
houfes*  The  word  confequence  of  this  (tuperftitious  belief 
is,  that  when  a  perfon  lofes  a  horfe  or  cow,  it  fometimes  hap- 
pens that  a  poor  woman  in  the  neighbourhood  is  blamed, 
and  knocked  in  fome  part  of  the  head,  above  the  breath,  un- 
til the  blood  appears.  But  in  thefe  parifhes  there  are  many 
decent,  honeft,  and  fenfible  people,  who  laugh  at  fuch  abfur- 
dities,  and  treat  them  with  deferved  contempt.  The  paflion 
of  the  young  men  for  a  fea  faring  life  nothing  can  exceed,  ex- 
cept their  averfion  to  a  military  one.  Four  or  five  young  men 
have  this  winter  voluntarily  entered  on  board  his  Majefty's 
navy.  Every  year  feveral  young  men  go  to  Greenland  or 
Iceland  fifliing,  to  Hudfon's  Bay,  or  on  board  fome  mer- 
chant ihip :  AU  of  them  prove  to  be  excellent  failors.    And 

it 


it  ts  belicTed,  that  they  are  more  indaflrioas  abroad  thait  fit 
hpme.  In  no  country  are  the  people  more  tenacious  of  theur 
dd  cuftoms  than  here.  There  are  3  churches  in  the  minifc 
iter's  charge,  at  which  he  preaches  by  turns ;  but  few  of  the 
people  are  difpofed  to  attend  divine  worfhip,  except  once  in 
the  three  weeks  at  their  own  parifh  church. 

.  Means  by  which  the  Situaiiw  ^f  the  People  cduU  he  elnmram^ 
/m/.**— On  this  part  of  the  fubjed,  the  writer  enters  widi  dif* 
fidcnce.  For  lie  is  abundantly  fenGUe,  that  it  is  much  eafier 
to  find  fault  with  what  is,  than  to  propofe  proper  praflicable 
tctnedies.  Anxious,  however,  about  the  profperity,  and  zu 
dently  wifliiing  to  promote  the  induftry  of  thefo  patifhes,  he 
begs  leave  to  fubmit  to  the  tonfideration  of  the  difcerning 
few,  the  following  improvements : 

ri«c,  A  good  road  for  the  pod,  through  the  middle  of  the 
iflands  of  Burray  and  South  Ronaldfay. 

21&,  That  the  proprietors  grant  at  lead  a  nineteen  years 
leafe,  to  each  of  their  tenants,  for  a  certain  rent,  one  half  of 
which  to  be  payable  in  money,  the  other  half  in  kind  *,  the 
money  rent  to  be  paid  in  6  months  after  his  entry,  the  rent 
in  kind  in  1 8  months  after  his  entry,  and  fo  on  during  the 
the  Icafc.  Each  tenant  to  receive  from  his  proprietor  one 
or  two  carts,  at  the  option  of  the  tenant,  the  value  of  which 
to  be  edimated  by  two  perfons  mutually  cliofen,  and  paid  by 
the  tenant  in  fuch  moities,  and  in  fuch  time  as  can  be  agreed- 
on*    No  (ervices  to  be  demanded  of  the  tenant. 

3/ih7,  That  the  tenants  be  encouraged  to  labour  rather  with 
oxen  than  hprfes,  many  of  which  die  yearly, 

4A?,  That  there  be  two  fchools  ereded  in  South  Ronald- 
fay,  and  one  in  Burray,  for  the  education  of  youth. 


t>f  South  Rj^nuldfay  arid  Burt  ay.  313 

Ito^  That  there  be  two  houfesin  Burray,  and  three  in 
South  Ronaldfay,  and  no  more,  allowed  to  fell  fpirits  and  ale. 

6fno^  That  every  farmer  (hall  keep  his  beftial  throughout 
the  year  on  his  own  ground* 

7/009  That  the  proprietolfs  Ihall  inftru£l  and  advife  their 
tenants,  frequently  to  change  their  feed-oats  ahd  bear,  and  tO 
drefs  both  with  (kill  and  care. 

8w,  That  if  a  foaperic,  ropcrie,  or  herring  fifliery,  were 
eftabliihed  near  the  harbours  of  WidewaU  Bay  and  St.  Mar- 
garet's Hope>  in  addition  to  the  improvements  above  re^ 
commeadedf  the  writer  would  not  defpair  of  feeing  the  in* 
habitants  of  thefe  pariOies,  as  induftrious  in  their  ftations^ 
and  as  comfortably  eafy  in  their  circumftances,  as  could  be 
found  in  this,  or  any  other  parifli  in  die  North  ^-Scotland. 


Vol.  XV.  Sf  NUMBER 


314  Stdtijlicai  ActDunt   ^ 

NUMBER  XIX. 
PARISH   ot   CAMPSIE, 


(P&ESDYTBRT  OF  GLASGOW,  SyNOD  OF  GlaSGOW  ANO  AtR> 

^  County  of  Stirling.) 


By  the  Aev.  Mft/jAiift^  LAj(>stiE,  Minijler. 


Situation  and  l^ami. 


HE  parifh  of  Caxnprfie  meafures  eight  Englifli  miles  in 
length,  and  feven  in  breadth^  following  the  two  great  lines  of 
road  which  interfe£t  the  pariOi  nearly  at  light  angles ; 
the  mean  length  is  about  fix  miles»  and  the  mean  breadth  fix, 
containing  36  fquare  miles ;;  and  allowing  only  400  acres  to 
every  fquare* jn3€,  the  amount  trill  be  14400  acres  y  it  con- 
tains 10 1  plough  gates  of  land,  and  is  valued  at  6429  pounds 

Scots.  $ 

It 

%  This  parifli,  prerioas  to  the  dlsjondion  ia  the  1^49,  made  a  puztlcular 
diftrid  of  country  by  itfelf,  not  a  little  marked  by  peculiar  manners  and  cuf- 
toms.  It  was  bound  on  the  North,  by  a  range  of  hilh  running  parallel  to  the 
Strath  for  near  ten  mOet ;  on  the  dontb,  by  the  river  Kelvin,  which,  in  thefe 
days,  formed  a  fwunp  impaflible  lb.  Winter ;  on  the  Eafl,  the  Gurrel  Glen 
became  another  natural  barrier ;  on  tht  Weft,  Craig-Maddie  Muir  and.  the 
Brawftt  Bum  feparated  this  diflrid  from  Srathblaae  aod  Balderaock. 

Campfie 


qfCampJie.  315 

.  It  u  hounded  on  tile-North^  by  the  parifli  of  Fintry*|  on 
the  Weft,  by  Srathblane  and  BalderAock  ^  on. the  South  by 
Caldcr  and,  Kirkintilloch  ;  and  on  the  Eaft  by  Kilfyth  ;  form- 
ing %  dtftia£l  commiflar^ot  alpqg  wi(h  Hamilton,  ftiled  fhe 
commiHariot  of  Hamilton  ai^jd  Campfie, 

It  is  prefumed,  that  ^  winding  appearance  of  the  ftrath 
jn  general,  and  particularly  of  the  glens  np^r  which  the  pa- 
ri(h  church  is  fituatcd,  has  given  rife  to  the  name  Campfie, 
or  Camfi,  whicli,  in  th^e  Celtic  language,  i^  faid  to  fignify 
crookpd  Strath  or  Glenw-rOf  cpuffe,  th^  Clachaji  of  Carap^ 
fie,  i$^  the  place  of  worlhip  of  the  crooked  glens. 

Indeed,  if  we  attend  carefully  to  the  appearance  which  thi$ 
diftria  prefents  to  thofe  who  vicw.it  from  any  of  the  neigh- 
bourbg  ftations,  particul^ly  the  beading  pf  tlie  hills  in  tlic 
form  of  an  amphitheatre,  above  the  village  pf  Clachan,  fronx 
l^hich  five  ftreams,  pouring  down  from  five  winding  glens, 
5  f  ^  fprm. 

Campfie,  in  its  onginal  ftatr,  was  eleven  EogUih  miles  long,  (cpfn.^MCcfl;, 
to  Eaft;  its  breadth  varied  on  the  Weft  march,  from  Calfler  houfe  to  the 
Carl's  feat,  it  was  at  leaft  nioe  EDglUh  miles ;  whereas,  on  the  Eaft  ma:ch,  its 
Wcadth  was  fcarcely  fix. 

It  contained  150  plough  gates  of  land  and  was  vahied  at  9(7^  pounds; 
Scots.  It  may  be  oberve<f  that  Campfie  is  fitoa^eA  in  the  LeoQoz,  ^  and  for- 
merly made  the  eaftero  dhrifton  of  that  aaciet^t  territorial  thaneihip.  In  tb^ 
year  1649,  '^^  Lords  Commiffioners  for  Valuation  of  Teinds,  disjoined  all 
that  part  which  lay  betwixt  Inch- Wood  Bum  and<he  Garrel  Glen  on  the 
Eaft,  annexing  it  to  the  parilh  Mdnniabrugh,  now  better  kaowljy  the  nam«.- 
of  KiUyth,  which  portion  contained  30  plough  gatea  of  land[,  and  is  rated  at 
acx>o  pounds  Scots  vaiution.  In  li^e  mj^nper  they  di^oiped  al{  that  portion 
on  the  South  Weft,  which  is  Ctuated  betwixt  Balgrochan  and  the  Brawzyec 
Burn,  annexing  it  to  the  parifli  of  Baldernock,  containing  ai  ploujrh  gates  of 
land,  and  valued  in  the  county  books  at  1341  pounds  Scots.  Thefe  two  dis-« 
pna  portions  will  nq  doubt  be  defcribed  by  the  mioi^en  of  the  rerpje^i^^ 
^iriilies  tq  which  they  belong. 


3i5  Statijtical  AtcoutU 

form  the  water  of  Glazirt,  Ais  ceymology  of  Campfie  wiU 
not  appear  unnatural. 

£xifrnal  Appeardhce  and  Soil, — Jt  wouH  not  be  eafy  to  rt- 
fl|ice  ^e  fuperficial  appearance  of  this  parKh  to  any  regttht 
iigiire  ;  it  can  neither  be  (aid  that  it  is  a  fqitare,  a  parallelo- 
gram, or  a  triangle ;  the  irregular  bending  of  the  hills  prevents 
the  eye  firom  comprehending  it  in  one  view,  and  the  bound- 
ing lines  of  the  parifh  have  never  been  accurately  ipeafttred'; 
in  loofe  terms,  it  may  be  faid  to  confift  6(  two  hills,  with  a 
confiderable  valley  of  ftrath  between  Aem  *,  the  South  hil} 
being  the  continuation  of  the  Ktlpatrick  Braes,  Hoping  gent- 
ly down  upon  the  Glazert  and  Kelvin  ;  the  height  is  about 
feven  hundred  feet,  arable  to  the  top. — Between  this  South 
brae  and  the  North  hUli  (better  known  by  the  name  of 
Campfie  Fells,)  there  is  a  conGderable  itratk,  narrow  indeed 
on  the  Weft,  but  as  it  runs  Eaft,  it  widens  into  an  open 
champaign  country.  The  furface  of  the  ftrath  is  uneven,  ex- 
cepting a  few  haughs  on  the  Kelvin,  and'Giazert.^-*Not  tbat 
the  land  can  be  ftyled  rugged  or  broken  ;  for  almoft  on  every 
fide  of  the  gentle  fwells,  with  which  this  ftrath  abounds,  fomt 
fmall  rivulets  cplle£l  the  waters  fr4:im  the  rifing  grounds ;  fa 
that,  even  fuppofing  the  arable  prt  of  the  palrifli  to  be  in  tb^ 
higheft  ftate  of  cultivation,  the  husbandman  would  neither 
find  it  eafy  nor  expedi<j;nt  to  plow  the  ridges  long  in  one  di- 
Te£lion» — One  meets  with  boggy,  ftanneryi  croft^  and  clay 
ground,  almoft  in  every  famif-^The  haughs  whick  ly  upoti 
the  Glazert  and  Kelvin,  are  compofed  of  cirfied    earth, 
brought  down  from  the  hills  in  floods ;  of  courfe,  thofe  upon 
tke  Qlazerty  as  being  nearer  the  hiU$^  contain  a  conHderable 
Quantity  of  gravel,  and  arc  better  calculated.for  raiSpg  pota,<» 
toes^  and  turnip.    The  Kelvin  haughs,  on  the  other  hand,^ 

beinff 


bemf  formed  of  the  flei^h  wlijch  dve  vWev  (tepofit*  on  oteiw 
flowiftg^itd  banks,  moft  be  tefOer  ald»pted>fov  the  caltnroof 
beans  aifid  wheat ;  and  as  the  Kelimi»  by  the  new^cut  Mrhloh 
is  making,  will  foon  be  confined  within  its  proper  channel^  it 
is  to  be  prefumed,  that  the  farmers  will  then  make  the  moft  of 
the  eicellfent  foil  whi<{h  lyes  upon  diatTi^er*  At  the  kirk  of 
Campfie,  there  is  a  haugl^  of  near  three  hundred  acres,  ca* 
pable  of  producing  all  fevlsof  gre^h  cvopSi  at  ieaft  eqaal.  tai 
any  in  the  coniity.  ^  ■  ' 

CKmate.-^Iha  cli«i4te  of  this  pemih,  liice  every  other  part 
in  d^  Weft  of  Scotland,  confiftmgof  hill  and  dak,  is  exceeds 
tngly  variable  *,  at  the  fan>e  time,  there  is  reafbn  to  believe^ 
that  more  rain  falls  at  the  kirk  of  Campde  than  in  any  of  tl^ 
neighbouring  pariChes  to  ihe^Soodt  and  Baft :  Nor  ir  it  to  bs 
wondered  that  th^  cfimate  (hould  be  wer/whea  tbefirbatioQ 

of 

•  AUhottgfa  tbe  {oil  of  thii  ptrSfli  be  £>  eKpedTngly  vat ied>.iicVacthtk& 
fhat'pan  of  it  which  coouias  coal  and  HxnA,  untibrroly  appcari  to  be  cla^ 
forming  two  belts  of  unequal  breadth ;  the  one  upon  the  Korth  of  the  wa* 
ter  of  GUzerty  is  nearly  a  thoufand  yards  in  breadth,  commencing  about  a 
mile  Bad  from  the  church,  and  cofitinoing  all  ahmg  the  ba^  of  the  HSttr  '«• 
the  eaftem  boondM'T  of  the  pariih.  The  other  belt  encircles  the  South  braes, 
and  its  breadth  is  fomewhat  greater ;  fuch  u  the  appearance  of  the  furface 
id  the  fitrath.  As  to  the  Cami^e  FeUs»  which  make  about  two  fifths  of  the 
whole  p^Hht  they  run  f  arallci  to  the  Svath,  from  one  end  of  the  diiln<£t  to 
the  ether.  Th^face  of  the  hill  b  iiomewhat  broken  with  craigs  and  glens  ; 
the  ftHBQiit  and  back  part  is  a  deep  muir  ground,  interfperfed  with  mofs 
kags ;  the  fell  oa  the  face  of  the  hills  produces  a  fliort  feeding  grafs,  equal  tc^ 
any  brae  grooad  in  tbe  kingdom;  while  the  muirs  are  thought  to  be  wel) 
calculated  for  the  rearing  of  young  black  cattle  in  the  more  marfliy  parts, 
end  fot  kespteg  ftocks  of  ewes  upon  the  drier  gro^tod^  In  goneral,  it  mafbc 
£iid,  chat  the  foil  in  the  Weft  end  of  the  pasifr,  and  perticuiarly  North  of  the 
Glasart,  is  taoH  adapted  fev  peftwa }  whcr<M  the  land  on  the  South  «nd  ^aft 
&le,  feems  fitter  for  grain* 


^|8  Statijiical  Account 

of  the  place  is  confidered ;  the  Campfie  Fells  being  fituatet} 
betvizt  the  Friths  of  Forth  and  Qydey  the  vapours  which 
co\\t€t  from  either  fea,  as  they  float  aloi^g,  are  intercept- 
ed \^J  the  Ugh  ridge  of  the  mountain  \  and  beiqg  thus  com- 
prefled,  they  defcend  in  (bowers  upon  th^  valky  \  neverthe^ 
lefsy  it  bemg  a  light. gfav^Uy  bottoni>  the  Stvath  being  wel) 
ventilated,  and  the  ftreanos  of  water,  owing  xq^  the  great  de? 
clivity^  running  oiF  quicUy>  the  pari(h  is,  upon  the  whole, 
uncommonly  healthy.  Perhaps  the  great  plenty  of  coal,  whic];i 
enables  the  meaneft  cottager  to  obtain  a  hearty  fire,  along 
with  the  uncommon  purity  of  the  ^ring  water,  may  nqt  a 
little  contribute  to  the  falubrity  of  a  climate  \{hich  in  other 
refpeAs  might  be  prejudicial  to  health  from  its  ds^mpnels. 
Whatever  other  obfervation  one  might  be  difpoiipd  to  make 
on  the  weather  in  this  diftr^,  it  muA  be  fallowed,  that  it  is 
lematkable  for  variety  ;  we  have  often  fcen  fnow  in  a  mof  117 
ingt  rain  at  mid-day,  and  froft  in  the  evening,  and  this  alter- 
nately for  feveral  days,— rOf  courfe,  it  would  be  impoflibie  to 
fay,  as  it  is  faid  in  fome  parts  of  the  iOand,  that  fuch  a  month 
is  dry,  or  fuch  a  month  is  warm ;  the  drought  of  Auguft 
yrt  have  often  witncfsed  in  November,  and  the  tempeftuou^ 
(^ow^r$  of  February  are  often  experienced  in  July. 

Watip 

t  Old  people  prfetend  to  flry  that  the  fetfons  are  akered,  aii4  pmicvlarlyr 
that  they  have  become  colder;  and  in  corroberatioli  of  their  opinion,  they 
adduce  the  very  flattering  but  falUcioni  teftimony  of  what  they  felt  in  their 
j^outh,  and  bow  the  com  ripened  fooner  on  the  braes  than  now  ;  The  tefti* 
mony  of  an  old  man,  about  what  he  felt  in  his  youth,  when  his  blood  wai 
warm,  and  hit  fpirits  high,  can  by  no  means  be  cpnfidered  as  an  ^une^uifo- 
cal  proof  of  the  ftate  of  the  weather ;  nor  is  the  circumftance  of  the  eoms  00 
the  high  ground  ripening  fooner  than  at  prefent,  an  index  of  the  alteration 
of  the  feafons.  For  we  all  know,  that  where  the  foil  is  thin,  and  often 
ploughed,  the  fcanty  meagre  crop  will  be  difpofed  fooner  to  whiten,  e«en  if 

tM 


r- 


ofCdmpJie.  31^ 

Water f  tTood,  and  Mhuntams.'^Tlm  parifli  maybe  faid  to 
be  uncommonly  well  watered :  In  the  greatcft  droughty  tbd 
number  of  fprings  from  the  hills  affind  fuch  quantities  of 
Water,  that  the  maclimery  at  the  different  print-fields  have  a 
conftant  fupply>  There  is  properly  fpeaking  but  one  river  in 
the  pariih  s  and  even  fhis  one  is  on  a  fmall  fcaie ;  it  is  fdrnsed 
by  three  ftreams,  uniting  below  the  kirk. of  Campfie :  it  then 
receives  the  name  of  Glazert^  which  is  faid  to  fignify  in  Gae^ 
lie,  tlie  water  of  the  gray,  or  green  promontory,  alluding 
peiiiaps  to  the  greenneft  of  the  hsUs  iiom  whence  the  ftre^ms 
flow.  The  Glazeit,  allorving  for.-aU  its  windings,  runs  a^ 
bout  five  EngEih  miles,  before  it  joins  the  Kelvin  oppofite  to 
Kirkintilloch.  It.  runs  with  confiderable  Rapidity }  tile  {aU 
from  the  kirk  of  Campfie  to;  the  Goyle-bridge  bj^ing  fomewhyfii 

more 


ihe  climate  (bou)d  be  w^ter  and  colder,  than  opqn  well-rcded  rich  Uod.  As 
far,  however,  as  we  .can  pronounce  any  thing  certain,  relative  to  the  climate, 
it  may  be  fald  that  we  have  fcarcely  any  perm'ajaent  froft,  tQl  afte^  Chtiff- 
mas  :  we  have  (eldotn  wind  from  tlie  North  and  £aft,  except  in  the  tifaitf  of 
a  fiorm  of  froft  juoii  faxm,-  and  ufnaUy  for  a  few  days  kbout  the  beginning  o£ 
Maf,  when  in  genjeral  it  is  accompanied  with  an  JBaftland  charr,  very  deftruc* 
tive  to  bloiTomf  ^f  fruit  treea.  Our  rain  in  general  is  from  tHe  South  Weft  ; 
and  we  fcarcely  ever  fail  to  have  our  Lammas  floods,  azid  oiir  ^quinon^ial 
liorm,the  firfi  calculated  to  lodge  our  com,  before  they  are  riptf,  and  the*  laft 
to  rot  them  in  the  ituke.  Summer  zySi  vias  remarkable  for  a  cold  drought, 
tvhich  continued  feveral  weeks  withering  the  grafs,  and  introducing^  black 
fly  upon  the  corns,  which  prevented  the  grain  from  being  fo  plump  as  ufual. 
J1%%  was  remarkable  for  being  a  backward  feafon,  fo  that  fonie  of  our  comV 
were  buried  below  the  fnow  on  the  3  x£l  of  O<^ober.  Summer  1783  was  re- 
asarkabieibr  a  thick  fbg»  whereby  the  fun  was  fcarcely  viilble  for  three 
weeks ;  we  £elt  that  fummer  a  flight  fliock  of  an  earthquake.  Our  fum- 
mcrs  upon  the  whole^  for  thefe  fix  years  bygone,  have  been  rather  cnld ;  our 
Winters,  on  the  other  hand,  have  been  open  and  frefli,  as  it  is  termed.  So 
wet  have  our  fummers  been,  as  almaft  to  countenance  the  fanciful  opinion  of 
old  people,  that  the  climate  was  altogether  changed.  Sumn^  1794  has  bcoi 
renurkabl/  wra. 


^10  Statyikal  jic^ount 

more  than  ico  feet^  above  ad  fieet^tinUe«  Befides.llitf 
Gtii2£rtj  there  are  no  k&  than  19  fm«ll.  bmm$  which  fall  into 
it.  Perhaps  to  peofde  whojiftre  been  aecuftomed  to  itGde 
chiefly  in  a  level  conminryy  few  fcenea  will  appear  more  tm\f 
ptdurefque  than  that  of,  die  ftre«m8  t»f  iM^ater^flitng  itown 
ibe  fides  of  (he  Campiie  Fells  in  a  flood,  while  the  top  of  the 
mountain  i^  perfe6tly  hid  in  the  blue  mift.  This  ftreai*acf 
water,  though  highly  piAurefque,  and  exceeding  ufefiil,  tiftill 
accompanied  with  fome^ixiconveniences:  -In  .the  ifi  phvoCf 
^hen  there  id  a  great  oii^Hight,  the  fpring  water  is  a^t  to  be 
impregnated  too  much  with  onneral  water  coming  from  the 
e6;d4evel8,  which  muft  prove  highly  prejudicial  to  the  bleach* 
er.  Iti'tfie  2//pl4ce,11ielea(lihowi:r  bangs  down  fucha  quan^ 
4ity  of  mofs  from  the  hills,  as  to  prove  very  trooblefome  in  the 
finer  operations  of  preparing  the  cloth  :  the  manufacturers, 
however,  have  contrived  in  a  great  meafure  to  remedy  both 
dcfe(Jls,. by  filtrating  the  water  through  the  fine  beds  of  gra- 
vcj,  up^n  which  iheir.yprks  are  fituated ;  there  is  one  acci- 
d^t  which  happ^si,.ag<^init'the  bad  e&A^  of.  which  there 
is  iio  guarding,  but  by  turning  off  the  water  altogether  frdm 
the  worta  5  and  tliat  is;  when  the  ffagnating  water  in  fome 
old  cbid- wafte  breaks  out,  it  will  tinge  every  ftone  in  the  ri- 
'Verj  jfop,  .miles,,  and  kill  every  filh  which  comes  within  its 
poifonous  influence.  We  have  feen  the  trouts,  after  fuch  an 
irruption,  floating  on  the  furfacc,  gathered  in  baflcets  full,  and 
eaten  by  the  country  people,  yet  no  bad  efFeQ  following  from 
eating  fuch  poifoned  fifli  *.  This  difttiil  originally  muft 
have  been  much  better  wooded  than  at  prefent,  as  is  evident 

from 

f  The  otazert,  in  former  times,  was  a  gxieat  depoflt  lor  ialmoD  fpawn, 

fvhereby  an  uncommoQ  quantity  o£  fry  was  yeaady  prodttced»  for  recruttiog 

•ibc  fi&erie^  en  the  Clyde,  the  number  of  its  fords  and  £ui4  banks  being  weU 

calculated  for  fuch  a  nnrfcry.    It  is  (aid  that  the  raiiing  of  the  Damhead  at 

Darciek 


f 


qfCampJie.  321 

from, the  remains  of  large  trees  occafionally  dug  up  in  the 
fwampS)  and  of  the  fcattered  copfe-woods  in  the  glens  and 
braes.  There  are  ftiil  three  confidcrable  woods  in  the  pariih'; 
the  three  together  contain  at  lead  one  hundred  and  ten  acres 
of  ground^  and  conflft  of  oak,  aller,. birch,  faugh,, and'  adr; 
though  the  timber  of  thefe  woods  be  reckoned  good^  they  are 
but  of  flow  growth  ;  the  woods  upon  the  banks  of  Lociilo* 
mond  arrive  at  fulkr  maturity  i»  18  year^  chan  theCamfh 
p(ie  wood  in  z8* 

The  different  articles  made  from  thefe  woods  are  fold  at 
the  following  prices  on  the  fpot :  Stobs  at  4&.  the  hundred, 
four  feet  long ;  kcbbres  for  houies  at  3fi.  per  dozen,  if  made 
of  Inrch,  and  68.  of  afli ;  cart- trees  at  is*  and- is.  4d.  the  pair. 
A  woodman  receives  is*  ad.  for  cutting  and  making  the  him- 
dred  ftobs ;  and  peelers  of  bark,  if  men,  is.  perday,  andwo- 
men  8d.     Bark  fells  at  15s.  theboUjia  ftone' weight }  and 

Vol.  XV  T  t  the 

Dartick  mills,  upon  the  KelTtn,  U  the  fole  canfe  why  the  filh  come  not  up  in 
rodding  time  to  the  Glazert  Perhaps  there  irfome  truth  in  faying- th^t  oft^ 
great  reafon  of  the  ficarcity  of  falmon  in  the  Clyde,  is  the  little  regard  paid  tp 
the  yoong  fry. 

It  would  at  leaH  be  an  objeift  to  the  country  at  large,  and  particolarly-to 
that  city,  that  greater  attention  fliould  be  paid  to  this  article,  fo  that  the  tri% 
butary  fit  earns  which  formerly  ftippHed  the  Clyde  with  fry,  (hbuld  not  bf 
rendered  toully  ufelcft'  I  havo  not  heard  of  a  fiiigle<fiilAon  being^feen  !n 
our  river. for  1 8  yearsi  whereas,  in  fotmer  days,  tbey  .wet«  fo  plenty  iafppiwb* 
in%  time,  that  it  was  cullomary,  thoogji  unlawfui,  for  the  country. lade  to  |;o 
out  with  torches  made  of  the  dreifings  of  Unt,  ao<l  with  long  fpears  to  kiU 
confiderable  quantities  of  thefc  foul  fifli. 

Although  fomctimes  the  water  from  the  coal-waftes  deftroys  the  trouta 
in  the  Glazert,  yet  as  the  glen  and  bums,  at  tb'e  head  of  the  paiii&,  axe  well 
fbocked,  the  river  is  quickly  replcnifhcd. 

Our  trout  fecms  to  be  of  two  difUiidlfpecIes ;  th^  in^uir  trout,  with  the 
black  back,  is  a  poor,  lank,  iniipid  fifh ;  the  Kelvin  trout  is  yellow  in  thtt 
ikin,  and  much  plumper  and  richer  in  the  fifh.  There  is  only  one  loch  in  the 
pajifli,  contalhxBg  about  31  acrcs^  where  there  ii  a  coniTdcrable  quantity  «j( 
perch. 


\ 


322  •  Statijlical  Account 

the  rcfpcftire  proprietors  are  bound  by  their  Icafes  to  drive 
it  to  market.  Although  the  ftrath  of  Campfie  be  remarkable 
for  growing  barren- timber,  there  is  much  lefs  planting,  cither 
^n  belts  or  in  hedge-rows,  than  might  have  been  ezpefled  : 
To  fay  that  the  fpirit  for  planting  is  only  beginning  in  the  end 
of  the  eighteenth  century,  in  a  country  fo  calculated  by  foi^ 
and  (hclter  to  produce  fine  timber,  is  not  faying  much  to  the 
praife  of  our  ihd^iftry.  As  to  fruit  trees,  it  may  literaily^be 
affirmed,  that  there  is  not  one  orchard  in  the  whole  parifh  ; 
therefore  it  cannot  be  faid,  from  recent  experience,  whe- 
ther it  be  a  foil  adapted  for  the  produ6^ion  of  apples  or  not. 
Confiderable  attention  of  late,  however,  hath  been  paid  by  the 
gentry  to  their  kitchen  gardens ;  it  is  to  be  hoped;  that  the 
fpirit  of  gardeniiig,  fo  long  dormant,  will  exert  itfelf  in  the 
formation  of  orchards,  and  the  laying  out  of  plantations  :  In- 
deed, in  a  country  where  grazing  is  fo  much  pra£iifed,  it  is 
rather*  matter  of  furprife  to  the  proprietors  themfelvcs,  that 
felf-intereft  long  ere  naw  (hould  not  have  led  them  to  form 
{helter  for  their  cattle  in  winter  *. 

.  Wild  Beajlsy  and  Birds. — ^There  are  two  fpecies  of  badger 
found  among  the  loofe  rocks  of  Campfie  JFells,  the  one  fomc 
what  refembling  a  fow,  the  other  a  dog  *,  the  firfl;  is  more  arch- 
ed in  the  back,  and  is  not  fo  nimble  in  turning  itfelf;  there 
has  occafionally  been  hams  made  of  it  in  this  place.  The 
fox  too  is  a  native  of  this  parifh  *,  the  huntfman  fays,  that  the 

three 

(*  Ai.to  finall  Tegetabljft  produdioos,  they  are  both  exceedingly  oumeroiis 
and  varied :  mod  of  the  Scotch  plants  common  to  glent,  woods,  and  rocks, 
are. to  be  found  in  this  diftrtd.  Our  ingenious  friend,  Mr  David  Ure,  declare^ 
'  £hat  l^e  hath  enjoyed  confiderable  pleafore  in  fearclfing  for  plants  in  our  fc- 
^ueftered  Vale ;  and  that  his  cuiiofity  vas  not  a  little  gratified.  Particvhflf 
^U^cdifiiarent  fpecies  of  the  licj^cn  ii  fouod  h«e. 


#/  Camfi^e,  323 

Ibree  different  kinds  peculiar  to  Britain  are  fbuncj^eir^  :  The 
gray-hound*fox^  with  the  long  bu(hy  tail,  White  o\\  the  top^ 
Ikulks  on  the  Fells,  and  is  particularly  dcftruflive  to  the  lambsi 
The  other  two  fpccies  lurk  in  woods  and  old  wafte  coal-pits ; 
khe  one  is  low  and  tliick  made,  of  a  very  dark  brown  \  the 
other  very  fnull^  of  a  lively  red  and  a  black  tip  on  its  tail  ^ 
the  laft  arc  the  moft  mifchievous  to  our  poultry.  There 
are  likewifc  weafleSi  otters,  polecats,  hedgehogs^  wild  cats  } 
and,  of  latej  feveral  martins  have  been  feen  among  the  rocks. 
As  to  birds  of  prey,  there  are  four  fpecies  of  .hawks  \  One 
pair  of  the  gentil  falcon  breed  regularly  every  year,  in  the  . 
Craig  of  Campfie,  a  fpecies  miich  fought  after  by  fportfrnen  ; 
we  have  likewife  the  kiftril,  that  fpecies  which  we  perceive 
ifo  frequently  in  the  air,  fixed  in  one  place,  as  it  were  fan- 
ning with  its  wings,  and  watching  for  its  fport :  The  Gofs- 
hawk,  which  builds  its  ncil  upon  trees  in  fcqueftered  placesj 
is  likewife  a  native  of  this  parifli ;  it  dalhes  through  the 
woods  with  v.til  impctuofuy  after  its  prey  i  and  the  fparrow"- 
hawk  is  fo  common  in  the  upper  parts  of  the  ftrath,  that 
the  children  of  the  villagers  amufe  themfelves  by  taming 
item  i  both  the  fluggifli  ina(£live  buzzardj  and  the  foaring 
glade  or  kite,  are  natives  of  this  di(tri£t  :  So  co/iimon  is  the 
glade  with  u<;,  that  its  various  modes  of  flight  are  confidered 
lis  an  almanack  for  the  weather,  and  its  note  is  a  fvmbol  of 
moral  condu(fi  )  we  obferve,  when  it  foars  high  in  the  air,  it 
prognofticatcs  good  weather  \  and  every  boy  will  tell  yoii  that . 
it  is  not  for  nothing  that  the  glade  whiftles  ^  alluding  to  the 
note  of  that  bird  when  it  glides  though  the  air,  watching  for 
its  prey.  The  golden  eagle  ^^fed  formerly^  to  build  in  oiir 
rocks,  though  of  late  it  has  difcontimied  the  pra£lice ;  bixt 
we  have  a  vlfit  of  them  annually  for  fome  months  in  the  fpring 
UDtd  fcarly  part  of  die  fuinmer  \  they  are  commonly  known 

T  c  2  among' 


^24  Statifikal  Account 

among  (be  iWpherds/by  the  name  of  the  eariii  a  vlfit  of  which 
amongfl  the  flock  is  dreaded  as  much  as  that  of  the  fox.  But 
of  all  the  birds  of  prey  amongft  us,  the  hen-harriers,  or  white 
aboon-glade,  as  he  is  called^  is  the  mofl  deftru£kiv6  to  game, 
both  partridges  and  muirfowl.  They  breed  on  the  ground  a- 
mongfl:  rulhes  in  (he  muirs,  and  fly  low  along  the  furface  of 
the  earth  in  fcarch  of  prey ;  the  corbie  or  raven,  the  hooded 
or  carrion' crow,  fooks,  jackdaws,  and  the  red  legged  crow,  are 
natives  of  this  di(ln£t.  There  are  about  fix  pairs  of  ravens^ 
which  breed  annually  in  the  rocks,  and  are  excee'ding  deftruc- 
tive  to  young  hmbs  in  a  bad  fpring.  I  have  feen,  again  and 
again,  a  raven  attack  a  lamb,  beat  with  its  wings  about  iti 
head^  till  the  poor  creature  fell  headlong  over  a  precipice  ; 
and  "before  the  Oiepherd  could  climb  to  the  fpot,  die  raven 
had  picked  out  its  eyes.  The  red  legged  crow  is  but  fcaffce 
M^th  us;  we  feldom  meet  with  above  a  pair  or  two  in  the 
whole  range  of  the  Campfie  Falls ;  when,  we  do  meet  with 
them,  it  is  amongft  the  jackdaws,  of  which  there  are  a  con- 
fiderable  number  which  haunt  eur  rocks-  A  very  curious  fccne 
is  frequently  exhibited  in  our  hills.  If  it  (hould  happen  that 
a  fox  leaves  his  hole,  and  bafks  himfdf  in  the  fun,  among  the 
f  ocks,  immediately  all  the  birds  of  prey  within  a  mile  of  him 
will  aflemble,  and  flutter,  and  fcream  over  the  fpot  where  the 
tl)ief  is  lurking  \  eagle  and  hawk,  raven  and  kite,  and  jack- 
daw forget  their  animofities,  feemingly  combining  in  a  mu- 
tual league  to  difturb  die  retreat  of  reynard,  fo  that  the  huntf* 
man  confiders  thefe  birds  as  infallible  guides  to  his  fport.  It 
may  be  obfervcd,  that  beafts  of  prey  are  every  day  becoming 
fcarccr.  Till  within  thefe  two  years,  we  had  a  regular 
bred  huntfman,  who  hunted  this  diftri£i  \  his  falary  was  paid 
by  the  tenants,  at  fo  much  per  plough,  which  huntfman  and  - 
dogs  were  kept  and  fed  by  each  te^nc  in  his  turn.  The  father 

and 


tfCampfie.  31 J 

andXon-in-law  performed  the  office  of  public  huntrixian,from 
the  year  17 »5,  till  1792,  a  period  of  fourfcore  years:  They 
w^re  faid  to  poff^fb  fame  of  the  largeft  fox  hounds  in  the  three 
kingdoms ;  they  were  flow  but  remarkably  {launch. — ^The 
cry  ^  the  hound^i  and  the  antmating  blaft  of  thelmglehomy 
re^choftd  by  every  rock  along  the  range  of  Campfie  Fells^ 
will  be  long  remembered  by  the  native^  of  this  (Irath* 

Now  there  are  fcarcely  as  many  beafts  of  prey  in  the  whole 
diftri^i  as  to  afford  amufement  to  the  graziers  in  an  idle  win- 
ter day ;  the  only  reafon  which  has  been  affignedi  is^  the  con- 
verting of  (heep  pafture  into  grazing  for  bbck  cattle^  where-, 
by  there  is  lefs  food  for  fuch  ravenous  animals ;  of  couife^ 
the  large  fox  has  migrated  to  the  high  lands,  where  his  food 
18  more  abundant.  In  proportion  as  the  beafts  and  birds  of 
pney^  have  left  this  diftridj  the  Tinging  birds  have  increafed  ; 
feveral  fpecies  have  appeared  of  late,  which  were  formerly 
unknown,  particulaily  the  bulfinch  and  the  wood-lark.  It  is 
perhaps  ^t  the  Clachan  of  Camp(ic»  which  is  fituated  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  copfewoods  and  retired  glens,  tliat  a  per- 
foH  is  enabled  to  comprehend  the  meaning  of  a  proverbial 
expreflion  in  this  county,  the  fcreich  of  day  light ; — ^here  and 
there,  tlie  lark  begins  the  fong,  which  is  foon  heard  and  ac- 
companied by  all  the  little  feathered  choirifters  within  reach 
of  it8note.;-^The  air  fccms  to  vibrate  witli  the  found.— . 
As  to  our  migrating  birds,  the  ftatement  in  the  following 
table  is  founded  on  the  obfervations  of  ten  years : 


Namxs. 


^2^ 


Stati/lical  AecoutU 


NAMEt. 

tee  Wbiie  Brtafied  Svml^ 

low, 
Uie  CtuMo$i 

rthc  fypod  c^i. 

iSirajf  Plovtr  or  Lopping. 
JVattr  W^gtail^ 
Bitme  Cbeiker, 


AfttXTBS. 


DissAmAAfi 


from  the  7tK  to  the  ^th  of  September  24th  till  Sep • 


Ma^ 


temb^r  i8th» 


a7th  of  April  to  the  «d  ol  becomes  lUeot  about  th^ 
May.  end  of  June.        , 

ftbout  the  36th  of  Odober.  abont  the  bcguminr'  of 

March, 
about  the  s6th  of  March,  about  the  end  of  Jalf. 
about  the  ift  of  April.       about  the  iCt  of  Odober. 
:ibout  the  ifi  of  May.        about  the  middle  of  An* 

guft. 
tbottt  the  ift  of  March      about  the  ift  of  Odobe^. 


In  former  times,  particularly  during  a  hard  winter,  it  vrzi 
euftomary  for  wild  ducksj  wild  geefe,  and  even  fwans,  to  vifit 
the  fwampd  of  this  parifh  ;  thefe  being  n6w  drained,  fucfa 
fowls  arc  fcarcdy  to  be  fcen.  There  are  plenty  of  groirfc 
in  the  Campfie  muirs ;  at  iht  fame  tinfic  partridges  hate  of 
late  become  uncommonly  fcarce ;  many  ^aufes  have  been  acf^ 
figned  for  the  f  apid  decay  of  this  fpecies  of  game,  fiich  as 
the  wet  fummers,  arid  the  pretended  increafe  of  the  birds  6f 
^rey,  which  is  nbt  faflt. 

Perhaps  it  ^iU  be  found,  that  this  country  at  prefent  is  ra- 
diet  in  an  unfavourable  ftate  for  nurfihg  patridges;  the 
Broom,  and  furze,  and  Briers,  being  moftly  grubbed  out,  an j 
the  land  formerly  ^afte,  put  under  culthration  ;  whereas  ar- 
tSficial  fhelterby  belt$  of  planting  is  riot  yet  prodiiced  ;  while 
the  number  of  idle  boys,  belonging  to  the  public  works,  let 
loofe  tipori  a  Suridsiy,  ftrolling  about  the  fields  with  their  tar- 
jier  dogSi  ferreting  out  the  patridge  nefts  by  the  fmell,  may  be 
an  additional  caufe  of  the  uncommon  fcarcity  of  this  game  iti 
lihe  parifli*  ' 


Strata^  Minerals^  Lime  and  Coal. — ^The  hiUs  of  which  in  part 
the  parifh  of  Campfic  i«  compofedi  are  according  to  the  diftinc- 


r" 


ofCampJie.  /  317 

tion  of  natUTalfts,  of  two  fpccies, ^r/m<iry  and  secondary;  in 
the  firftj  it  is  faid  that  coal  and  lime  arc  nev^r  to  be  found, 
■whereas  the  fccond  abounds  with  both. 

The  higheft  ridge  of  the  Campfie  Fells,  is  about  1500  feet 
above  t}>e  level  of  the  fea,  apd  about  1200  from  its  bafe^ 
where^  properly  fpeaking,  the  mountain  commences,  the  af- 
cent  is  very  rapid  }  and  from  examining  the  glens,  and  gul* 
lys  formed  on  its  (ides,  it  feems  to  be  compofed  of  the  fol- 
lowing flrata:  At*the.bafe  of  the  hill,  immediately  after  the 
coal  is  cut  off,  you  meet  with  feveral  layers  of  camftonc,  (a^ 
it  is  termed- with  us,)  which  is  eafy  burned  into  a  heavy  lime. 
Immediately  above  the  camftone,  you  find  at  leaft  a  dozen 
ftrata  of  ironftone,  of  difierent  thicknefs,  with  a  foft  flate 
interveening  betwixt  the  layers  ;  it  is  faid  by  thofe  .who  have 
examined  the  ironftone,  tKat  it  is  of  an  excellent  quality* 
Thefc  different  feams  make  up  aoo  feet  of  the  bafe  of  the 
mountain.  Then  15  ftrata  of  muirftone  rife  above  each  o« 
ther  to  the  fummit  of  the  Fells,  where  they  jut  out ;  in  the 
face  of  the  braes,  they  go  by  the  name  of  daffes  or  gerrocks. 
Betwi^ct  thefe  ftrata  of  muirftone,  you  meet  with  various  co^ 
loured  ftuff,  fometimes  of  a  copperi(h,  fometimes  of  an  iron* 
ftona  colour ;  and  it  is  faid,  there  are  appearances  of  copper  2 
but  the  working  of  it  h^s  not  as  yet  been  attempted.  Lately, 
yrhen  forming  the  new  turnpike^road  along  the  fide  of  the 
hills,  feveral  veins  of  fps^r  and  chryftal  were  found,  not  un* 
like  thofe  which  accompany  lead-mines ;  and  perfons  whQ 
iiad  wrought  at  the  different  lead-mines  in  Scotland,  declar-» 
cd,  that  the  appearances  of  that  metal  were  both  frequent  and 
favourable :  no  attempt  as  yet  hath  been  made  to  follow  out 
thefe  appearantes.  In  the  whole  range  of  the  Campfie  Fells, 
there  is  only  one  place  where  the  rocks  affume  a  bafaltic  ap« 
pcarance  ;  and  by  thofe  who  admire  fuch  columnar  appear* 

ances, 


32S  Sati/iical  Account 

'  4 
ancesy  they  are  laid  to  be  very  beauUfol,  Here  2fA  tliere, 
there  were  dug  out|.  when  forming  the  turnpike^road  on  the 
hills,  feverai  (Irata  of  mod  excellent  day  mark^  both  while 
and  fpcckled  -»r-it  has  not  as  yet  become  an,obje£b  of  atten- 
tion to  the  country  people.  Beautiful  pebbles  I^avc  been 
found  among  the  rocks,,  of  which  a  gentleman  lately  procur- 
ed as  many  as,  when  poli(hed,.fumiflied  a  fct  of  elegant  but- 
tons for-a  coat.  About  the  middle  of  the  ftrath^  you  meet 
with  excellent  quarries  of  free  ftone,  qakulatcd  for  all  the 
purpofes  of  the  builder ;  but  the  minerals  of  which  we  have 
the  greatell  rcafon  to  boafl^  are  the  incihauft^ble  fcams  of 
lime  and  coal,  which  merit  a  particular  defcription.  The 
coal  and  lime  in  this  pariQi  are  generally  found  in  the  fame 
field  :  The  coal>  throughout  the  whole  parifti,  pofTefies  a  cak- 
ing quality  \  at  the  fame  time  it  is  Yery  foul  and  fulpburous, 
kayingi  when  burned,  an  uncommon  quantity  of  nifty  colour- 
ed aflics,  whicl^make  excellentniianure  for  certain  fort&df  land. 
The  coal  on  the  North  of  the  Glazert,  takes  on  about  a 
mile  £aft  from  the  Claclian  of  Cajnpfie,  and  continues  wiih- 
,out  much  interruption  to  the  eaftern  extremity  of  theparifb  \ 
\%  runs  parallel  to  the  Fells,  and  feldom  exceeds  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  in  breadth :  The  field  on  the  South  Cde  of  the  river, 
which  forms  a  belt  around  the  South  braes>  is  conCderaUy 
broader,  and  is  of  much  fuperior  quality  to  the  other.  The  coal 
is  (bund  of  di  Jcreut  depths  from  the  furface ;  on  the  North 
Ede,  from  feven  to  fifteen  fathoms ;  on  the  South,  from  fif- 
teen to  twenty  two  ;  the  feam  throughout  the  whole  pariflij 
t5»  at  an  average,  from  forty  two  inches  to  four  feet  inthick- 
nefs>  with  two  fmall  bands,  of  an  inch  and  aa  inch  aod^half, 
running  through  itt  The  ftrata  above  the  coal  is  found  uni- 
.  fomily  in.the following  manner  ••  After  the  foil  there  1$  found 
3  fpecics  of  tilli  int^jrfperfed  with  ftpne^.;. after  ujuchr comes 
a  blaze>  as  it  is  termed,  and  which  continues  to  a  confidera- 


)At  (tepth ;  then  (late,  vhich^  at  ame^lninlj'is  ffora  fcrcn  to 
eigM  fcct  in  tWckn^fs  \  rfrer  which,  th<rc  is  oniforaily^  Itnvc- 
ftonc,  being  a  fcai-n  of  four  feet ;  then  a  flatty'  alMl  then  the 
coal :  .Such  is  the  •  regular  ftrata  in  Campfie  ih  ftikiang  ft>t 
coal  ;*wlth  this  (liffcrericc,  however,  that  the  flAte  in  the  North 
of  Glaztrt,  betwixt  the  lime  and  coal,  is  fifteen  feet  in  thick- 
ticfs  -,  on  the  South,  k  is  fcirccly  four ;  below- the  coal,thctc 
is  eighteen  inches  of  a  fiulF,  which  the  workmen  term  daA  \ 
tlicn  the  white  lime,  of  an  inferior  quality  to  the  other,  and 
as  yet  but  feidom  wrou^t. 

The  Coal  in  this  -dHtfiftis  fall  of  •  rtreg«laritio«,'ftifcd.By 
the  worlihen  tcupsy  and  hsktyes^  and  ^kes  ;  the  truth  is>  the 
conl  part-rkes  a  good  deal  of  the  ittegUlatity  of  the  groimd 

•  above,  which  is  very  tmcven.  If  one  was  \a  fpeak  in  gencr- 
n}term§  of  the- whole  coal  in  the  pari(h,  as  one  fiigld)  it  mt^t 
be  ftid,  that  die  depth  ^vis  to  the  Sctath  Eaft,  and  the  rife 
to  the  North' Wert  ;  fuch  re»lly  being  the  afcent  and  dechvi- 
ty  of  the  kinds  in  this  diftnfV ;— but  as  thers  iH?e  a  nanU>cr 
of  gentle  fwells  in  the  (Irath;  it  will  happen,  that  ftceordiii;:; 
Its  the  f>it  is  put  down  on  this  fide  of  the  fwell,  o?  upon  the  ' 

'  Khcr  fidf ,  the  dip  a*ld  rife  of  the  coal  will  appear  favoatabfe* 
or  the  donfary* — The  4ip  is  fometimes  fo  fudden  as  ta  be 
one  foot  in  tliree,  irt  other  places,  only  one  in  tu^enty*  .Bcfi- 
cles  thefc  coups  and  hitches,  which  arc  found  where  the  ftra- 
tA  above  and  below  the  coal  fuddenly  approach,  or  re tucat 
from  each  other,  by  this^hicans  coupiiag  the  coal  out  of  its 
tegular'bcd,  there  are  complete  breaks  in  the  ftrata,  termed 
dykes,  which  cuti^iFthe  coal  entirely  in  various  direflbns \ 
thefe  dykes  are  fometimes  obferved  upon  the  furfacc  of  the 
earth,  from  which  thef  fink  down  to  an  unfathomable 
depth  i— There  arc  two  of  thefe  dykes  in  this  diftrid,  which 
are  remarkable,  and  fccm  to  be  uniform  tfarov^hout :  Fiifi^ 
There  is  a  coup-dyke,  which  runs  from  Weft  toEad^  Nonh 
Vol.  XV.  U  » 


33^  Swiftical  Account 

of  this  coup^dyke,  the  coal  dips  about  fiftiKn  feet,  and  thtd 
they  may  work  about  three  hundred  yards  into  the  hil^  where 
they  feem  to  be  Cut  oflP  entirely  by  a  whinllone  dyke ;  fa 
there  are  two  great  barriers  which  intercept  the  }y  of  the 
coal  upon  the  North  of  the  Glasfiert  \  the  coal  t>n  the  South 
of  the  coup-dyke,  takes  on  almoft  within  fix  feet  of  the  fur- 
face,  and  is  not  above  fix  inches  thick,  with  fomething  like 
a  clay  roof. 

Manner  of  Worting.-^Thtrt  is  reafon  to  bcHcirc  that  eoal 
has  been  wrough  in  this  diftri^  for  feveral  centuries  ^  but  the 
working  of  it  feems  to  have  been  carried  in  a  very  aukH»^rd 
irregular  manner,  taking  advantage  of  the  ly  of  the  groiind  i 
They  ufed  to  make  large  excavations  upon  the**  f office, 
whif:h  they  termed  creeping  heughs ;  from  thefe  excdvaf iMs, 
they  drove  a  road  into  the  coal  heads,  and  -by  this  means 
brought  the  coals  to  the  hill,  dragging  them  on  their  iiaall 
fledges  up  the  declivity,  which  was  n6t  very  gf  ekt,  as  Ike  ex^ 
cavation  was  always  made  as  much  to  the  dip  fide  <f  thirhill 
as  poIEble :  It  is  evident,  that  in  this  manner  the^  couM  on- 
ly work  the  crop  of  the  coal,  where  the  water  created  ftthS'dif- 
quiet ;  a  method,  however,  highly  prejudicial  both  to  thftf  land« 
.  lord  and  the  public ;  the  next  ftage  of  woiling  was  bf  fink- 
ing perpendicular  pits,  ftiled  windlafs  heughs.  Otfth^  North 
of  the  river  Glazert,  thefe  pits  were  in  depth  from  fixty  to  nine- 
ty feet  i  but  they  fo  contrived  it,  that  thefe  pits  ttriere  placed 
near  fome  gully  or  burn,  where,  by  running  a  level  from  a 
certain  part  of  the  bum,  all  the  coal  round  the  pit  bottom  be-^ 
came  drained ;  and  in  the  finking  of  every  new  jMt,  they  rimft 
always  do  it  with  a  retrofpe£i  to  their  former  level ;  ftill, 
however,  the  coal  upon  the  dip  fide  might  be  lying  under 
water  i  for  although  the  declivity  in  the  ground  favoured 

greatly 


^Camphe  331 

greatlf  thefe  imperfefk  fliort  levels,  there  were  many  fields 
of  coal  M^iich  could  not  thus  be  drained  but  at  a  moft  enor^ 
mou$  eacpence,  in  driying  fubterraneous  mines  ^  In  this  ftage 
of  carrying  on  the  work,  there  were  employed  at  lead  two 
me0  at  the  windlafs,  putting  up  the  coals  in  Ikiffies,  termed 
hutches  \  and  it  is  more  than  probabk  that  they  had  likewife 
to  pully  up  the  water  for  a  conGderable  time  every  morning, 
before  the  workmen  had  got  the  coals  raifed  ;  the  coal  buG* 
nefs  in  this  diftrid  was  carried  on  in  this  floveniy  manner 
during  this  century  ;  The  country  was  ill  fupplied  ;  the  land- 
lords complained  that  tliey  never  made  a  (hilKng  of  their 
Coal>  while  every  perfon  Mras  furprifed,  that  a  diilri£l,  poflef- 
fing  fuch  natural  advantages,  (hould  nvike  fo  little  good  ufe 
of  ^em.  About  two  years  ago,  qoal  becoming,  exceedkig- 
ly  fcarce>  and  the  price  rifing  fuddenly,  there  became  an  lab- 
ibl^te  nece^ity  of  working  it  in  a  be«cr  ftylc  •,  accordingly, 
Mf  pmunore  of  Ballindalbch,  a  gentleman  to  whofe  adlivi- 
ty^andf  atriotifm  thb  part  of  Scotbnd  is  much  indebted,  be- 
tfoqting  the  lefler  of  feveral  works  in  the  pariOi,  he  imme- 
diately eredled  gins,  driven  by  horfes,  for  pulling  up  the  coals  ;^ 
which  improvement  is  anfwerin'g  the  purpofe,  and  is  either 
already^  or  will  be  quickly  foUowcd  by  the  other  proprietors ; 
fo  that  now  we  have  every  probability  of  this  iieceflary  arti-i 
cle  of  life  being  wrought  in.  a  ftyle  far  fuperior  and  more  ex>> 
peditioua  than  hithcfto  experienced. 

AU  die  coalliers  in  this  parUh  now  work  with  the  pick  and 
wedge :  this,  however,  is  only  a  late  improvement  \  they  pool 
in  the  middle  of  the  feam,  where  a  fmall  band  of  (tone,  about 
an  inch  of  thicknefs,  lye8,.caUed  the  pooling  band,  and  then 
0)e«r  down  what  is  above,  ftiled  the  roof  coal,  and  drive  up  the 
foal  coals  with  wedges  \  they  carry  on  their  drifts  orroomseight 
Icctb;^  fourteen,  leaving  ftoops  eight  fpctby  twelve-,  but  this 

U  u  2  varies 


33^  Statiftical  Account 

v&ri$$.  according  as.the  coal  is  foft  or  hard  ;  every  coalUer  may 
be  f»kl  to  be.his  own  drawer  \  fcldoni  or  ever  h^s  he  any,pcK|bn 
to  aflid  him  \  they  commonly  go  to  their  wo^k  aX  four  in  the 
tQornin^  and  continue  until  two  in  the  afternoon  j  formerly 
the  coak  were  put  out  by  the  dui%  confifting  of  (V^^pty  ei^jht 
hutches,  for  which  dark  the  coallier  received  one  {IiilUi)g^ud 
eight  pence,  and  the  proprietors  had  for  lordfliip  one  Ihilling. 
and  ten  pence  y  an  afitive  workman  could  very  cafily  put  out 
two  of  thefe  darks  per  day,  m<iking  three  flnllings  and  four 
pence ;  thefe  hutches  becoming  more^nd  more  uncertain  aa  to 
the  quantity  contained  in  tliem,  boiL  the  landlord  and  public 
being  impofed  upon,  it  became  necuTary.to  adopt  fomc  new 
regnlations  relative  to  th^  meafure  ;  which  has  been  done 
accordingly  \  (b  that  now  we  compute  by  loads  \  .each  load 
oontains  2184  cubic  inches,  equal  to  cwenty  one  Scotch  pints 
and  a  half,  water  meafure ;  fix  of  thefe  loads  make  an.  exceed* 
ing  good  cart»  which  (hould  weigh  betwixt  twelve  and  thir« 
teen  hundred  weight ;  the  pricej  at  the  pit  mouth,  being  eigh-* 
toen  pence  per  cart,  or  threepence  per  load ;  a  tolerable  vit)rk« 
man  can  put  out  twenty  four  loads  per  day,  for  which  he  ha& 
three  {hillings  \  and  the  landlord  the  other  tliree  (hillings.  In 
order  to  afcertain  the  quantity  of  co^ls  raifed  at  the  difitrrent 
pitS)  of  which  there  are  no  lefs  than  fixty  going.this  month  of  . 
December  1 793,  we  ftiall  calculate  the  average  out-gut  of  the 
coaliers  :  There  are,  in  all  the  different  pits,  forty  {\%  c^ioiUersi 
allowing  three  carts  and  a  half  per  day.to.eacbj  itHitccisone 
hutxired  and  fixtyone  carts  per  day,  fuppo(aig'  theioi  oiiijir  to 
work  five  days  in  the  week ;  the  out-put  per  Mxek  will  be  eight 
hundred  and  five  carts  \  rickooing  the  coalliers  weeks  ui  the 
year  only  to  be  fifty,  the  ottt*put  in  the. year  will  be  forty 
thoufand  two  hundred  and  fifty  carts }  fuppofing  that  the 
meafurCf  at  a  medium  ^  do^s  not  exceed  eleven  hundred  weight 

per 


ofCampJie.  333 

pcrcaitf  the  out-put  in  tbe  y«ar  will  be  22 1 3  5  tons  and  a-haU ; 
the  price  at  the  hill  is  fomewhat  better  than  2s.  6d.  per  ton  \ 
the  total  value  is  2750L  Sterlingt  of  which  the  coalliers  re* 
cdve  1 375I ;  the  remainder  goes  for  lordflwp,  and  to  fopport 
the  hiUs^mea  and^in-boySy  along  with  the  tear  and  wear  of 
the  woik. 

According  to  the  calculation  of  men  ikilled  in  coal-mines, 
thc£e  20,000  tons  will  at  leaft  exhauft  three  acres  of  coal.an- 
nuaHy,  a  wafte,  which,  great  as  it  may  appear,  we  are  able 
to  fupport  for  150  years  to  come ;  but  in  reality  we  are  raif- 
iog  this  feafon,  at  leaft,  double  of  what  was  raifed  former- 
ly, nay,  10  times  morp^an  what  was  put  out  about  20  years 
ago  $  4l»a  great  quantity  of  coal  ie  ufed  in  the  foHowteg  vskTXL^ 
ner:  The  two  printfields  confume  annually  3;$oo  tons  s  ^ 
bove  2100  tons  is  ufcd  in  burning  lime;  and  the  remainder 
in  fnpplying  the  pariihes  of  Campficj  Fintray,  Balfrone,  Ki-. 
laivn,'  Stfatkblane,  Balderooek,  and  partly  Kitkintillock  and 
Kilfyek^  It  is  <feabtfttl  if  tiven  yet*  the  coal  iti  this  dtftriA 
be  wrought  to  advantage;  in  reality,  we  are  as  yet  but 
working  the  crop  of  the  coal ;  it  being  abfolutely  neccflary  . 
that  tlKey  fiiould  either  drive  their  levels,- or  cre^  their  fteam 
engines  upon  the  dip  fide,  fo  that  they  might  work  to  the 
rife.'  Mlmy  great  fields  at  this  moment  ly  buried  under  wa- 
ter, owing  to  this  defe£k  % 

It 

f  N#  nMp  being  «UMk  of  thde  fobterraneoui  WM^aad  no  docnmcntf 
being  in  the  pofldfion  of  the  propriecor%  to  point  out  when  and  how  foch  a 
field  of  cool  was  wrooght,  it  it  only  by  fome  vague  tradidon,  handed  down 
Stom  'OUt  generation  of  coallicrf  to  another,  that  we  pretend  to  judge  whether 
the  groopd  be  wafted  or  not  f  io  that  too  often  the  pit  ib  put  down  upon  a 
OMuIiIb;  or  itfaitB,  to' the  great  detrinMOt  of  die  adveatnrcr ;  whiebaullake 
aright  be  ealily  veAified*  by  each  proprietor  getiiiig  an  aceunrte  chart  made  out 
afthifkUaiwkisotBWiiki^  forte  benefit  of  pofterity;  befidet  many  Uvea 

night 


334  Statijtical  Account 

It  has  been  obfervcd  that  limcftone  is  always  found  In  the 
fame  field  with  the  coal  \  it  is  in  general  a  fearo  from  thre^ 
feet  to  five  in  thicknefs,  and  is  wrought  in  the  foHowing  man* 
ner :  They  take  off  the  earth  from  xht  furface,  called  tirring, 
^hich  is  from  lo  to  30  feet ;  feldom  or  never  have  they  as 
yet  wrought  the  Ume-^ftone  by  mining.  The  probability  tSx 
however,  that  they  will  foon  be  compelled  to  it  \  the  work- 
men  take  tirring  at  3d.  the  fquare  yard ;  they  put  otft  the 
lime  fkone  at  fo  much  per  chalder,  and  by  experience  'they 
know  what  number  of  fc^uare  yards  of  broken  {lone,  makes  a 

^    diafder 

n|^t  be  fiived,  wUch  are  imfoitiioateTy  loft  bf  die  «6rkB)e0  ilriWiig  Ar^oglit . 
vpon  old  wafte ;  is  was  tb4  caiic  Fcbroarf  1789^  when  five  c^a^i^i!^  were  kil- 

.  led  in  the  Newk  coal-pit  ^of  Campiie.  I  confider  the  wa^es  of  the  coallien, 
a«  by  no  meant  in  proportion  to  th«  wages  of  other  labourers  in  tlie  parllh ; 
the  laboarcr  ha^og  only  fizteen  pence  per  day  :  AUo«^g  the  ecklfieti  third 
ihore  on  account  of  the  daitget  and  diTagneahle  nalvfc  Of  the  wark^  tiCAwow 
fliim^gst  then  chcM  would  be  nmt  third  oCthetwugK^^Aiicb  Ije  rqpfives  i^ 
|Fcf«ac»  iavcd  to  the  pob^ic*  .    , 

Coal,  in  cyery  inland  diftri^  In  Scotlaad,  (bouI4  not  be  coofidered  as  ai^ 

'  article  of  comxuerce,  which  the  landlord  as  a  merchant,  may  fpecuhte  upon 
for  his  own  advantage  :  It  Ihonld  be  confidered  as  an  article  of  the  firft  lie- 
ccffity  }  Proprietors  of  bnd  flionld  recolledl,  that  e^ery  drcunftance  whid^ 
incrcaies  population,  ultimately  benefiu  their  eftates ;  wherever  water  is  pkn-^ 
ty  and  firing  cheapi  there  the  manufadurer  ^  labourer  wiU  always  refort., 
Campfie,  at  prcfcnt,  i»  confpicuoufly  biefled  with  both ;  and  it  will  difcover 
the  folly  of  the  landlords,  if  ever  they  permit  coals  to  become  nattK^h  dearer} 
it  is  not  the  richnefs  of  the  foil  which  always  brings  the  higheft  rent  to  tho^ 
ptoprietor ;  ibrne  particufaur  local  adwuitage  adb  in  his  favQur  \  and  peiliapa. 
there  is  none  to  furpals  the  advantage  of  cheap  fuel 

A  fmall  farmer  (Inch  as  we  have  in  this  diftiid)  coniders  good  oat  ncal 
•ad  a  good  fire  as  great  luxuries ;  and  while  the  cenaau  poflela  thefe>  they  will 
Biake  a  conflderaUe  Ihift  to  pay  their  dear  rc«tSb 

It  is  with  pleafurc  that  we  take  notice  of  the^f^blic  fpiriicdattcaipttmado 
hyftveralg^ttemen  hft  ycir,lopfVfCi^  the  coals  from  fifing  in  thts^liftriAi 
nnd  they  have  fiilly  fiicceeded  ;  They  hate  perjbapa  fnak  t  littk  inpncft  but 
their  tenanu  and  dependants  have  reaped  the  benefit,  and  the  public  hath  ^4 
t^  every  ref(«ft  which  an  elcrated  nu»d  on  4cSrc* 


fhaUer  of  Ikne  \  die  lime  is  burnt  cliieflf  in  fmall  kilns^  hol4- 
inf  from  lo  to  15  chalders,  the  ftone  being  more  complete-* 
ly  burnt,  than  in  thofe  of  a  larger  fize  \  the  layers  of  ftone 
and  coal  are  made  alternately  in  the  following  prop9rtion8 1 
lft»  Six  inches  of  coal,  then  20  inches  of  lime-ftonet  broken 
lo  tlbie  fiee  of  a  two-penny-loaf-  Two  firlots  (wheat  mea- 
fure)  of  burnt  ftpnc  make  four  firlots  of  flacked  lime  ;  of 
CQurfe,  32  fidots  make  a  chalder  of  Ikmt^  fold,  till  within 
thefe  two  years,  at  ^L  Soots«  at  the  quarry,  no^  8s.  the  rea* 
dy.  money  price ;  formerly  it  was  fold  with  at  leaft  6  months 
credit.  It  is  doubtful  if  the  ftate  of  the  country  as  yet  will 
permit  this  alteration,  fmall  as  it  is  -,  it  requires  6  or  7  loads 
of  cosd  to  burn  the  chalder  of  lime*  There  were  employed 
this  fummer  (1793)  40  woikmen  in  the  difierent  lime  quar- 
ries in  the  parifli,  who  raifed  at  leaft  3^00  chalders  of 
flacked  lime  \  the  Campfic  lime  is  reckoned  of  ah  exctf^ding 
-rich  quality,  much  fought  after  by  pbifterers ;  in  common 
building,  to  every  boll  of  lime  one  b<dl  of  fand  is  required, 
tx>  make  proper  mortar.  The  great  fa£ts  reladve  to  our  coal 
and  lime  work^  arc  ftated  in  the  following  table : 

Wages,  35  per  day,  or  X375I.  pet 

annunu 
per  annum,  at  i8d.  per  cart, 
per  annum. 

per  cart^  confifting  of  fix  loads, 
bundr^  weight* 
per  fquare  yard,  ttrring. 
the  puttmg  out* 

per  Chalder,  when  burnt  at  the 
kiln. 
Sd.    pet  ditto  for  fetting  and  (eUing 
lime. 

Coal 


No.  of  CoALLI£RS        46 

— —  Cam 

42,250 

-^—  Tons 

22,13s 

Price 

iSd. 

Weight 

12 

IdME-STONB 

3d- 

Chalder 

I8.8d. 

Price 

8s. 

336  Stat$ical  Account 

Coal  -  35^^    Tons  confumcd'by  the prititfietcrj* 

-_—-  *  ^2 1  CO     confiimed  in  tfec  burning  of  lir/ie. 

— —  •         16,465  '  confumcd  by  this,  and  neighbour-* 

ingparfftcs*  .-  •     • 

VALtE  L*  2750    of  out-pit  this  ycir  1793* 

Li:&E  ^         30O0    Chaldrons  burned  and  fold  in  tic 

year.  6  Loads  of  coal,  to  the 
burning  of  1  chaldcr  of  limd : 
fo  that' every  chaldcr,' befid^s 
'tirring,  cods  the  tackiiniftn  in 
'expcnce  of  putting  out,  in  fcft- 
ing,  iiM  m  COtds,  3s.  (fd*.  before 
he  can  bring  ff  to  market. 
'Me^  •»     "'40'         cmpldyed  in  working  Time. 

State  rf  Pr»perty,^^T[m  fsA(h  cm^ 
oae  pk>i:^gal3eff  of  kpd,  72  of  which  aiie  poflefikd  by  tight 
.  -great  proprietors ;  die  other  28  ploughs  fre  pofieiFed  by  37 
Sniars,^  portidncrs,hDldifig  charter  and:  feifin;  dievaltia* 
lion  of  the  whole  patiih,  being  6429I..  4900I.  iapofTdTed  by 
the  eight  great  proprietors,  in  the  following  proportions : 

Valuation* 
WilKarm  Lennox  of -lAToodhood  *  ^m 

John  Lennox  of  An^rmony,    ...    -  -8^8 

•  Sir  Johii*Stirring  of  Glorat,  -  *  -  Eoo 

Sir  Andiibald  Edrmfton  of  Durltreath,  -        6t6 

John  Macfarlane.oPKirkton  *  "537 

John  Buchanan  of  Carbeth,  -  •  -  •    403 

John'Kincaid  of-Kincaid,  •  •  417 

John  Stirling  of  Craigbarnet,  -        *  300 

They  all'  refide  in  the  parifli,  except  Sir  Archibalfl  Edmi- 
fton,  who  pofTeiTes  large  eftates  in  the  parilhes  pf  Kilfythj 

Strathblancj 


(ffCampfie.  337 

BtrathUane^  Kil{)atrick,  and  Dumbarton  :  Mr  Buchanan  of 
Catbeth)^  Mir  Stirling  of  Craigbarnet>  and  Sir  John  Stirling  of 
Glorat,  pofiefS}  each  of  them,  likewife  landed  property  in 
other  parifbes ;  of  this  property  there  are  2260  pounds  Scots 
entailed^  and  in  all  probability  ^Iiere  will  be  more  added  by 
the  prefetit  proprietors.  The  fmall  proprietors  are  fetiera  of 
the  families  Of  Montrofe>  Keers  Glorati  and  Bardowie,  and 
beame  fo  at  the  following  periods  : 

Feuere  of  Moiitrofe  1632)  feuersofKeer  1714;  feiiers 
of  Glorat  1742  }  feuers  of  Bardowie  f7i3v  Landed  proper- 
ly in  this  di(lri£l  hath  changed  its  mafters  as  feldom  as  in 
moft*  parts  of  Scotland  ^  whether  this  be  an  advantage  to  the 
country 9  or  not|  is  a  queftion  upon  which  fpeculative  men 
have  differed ;  but  this  at  leaft  is  certain,  that  the  foUowiug 
.families;  viz.  Kincaid  of  Kincaid,  Stirling  of  Craigbamet, 
Stirling  of  Glorat,  Lennox  of  Woodhead,  and  Edmifton  of 
Dontrath,  were,  in  the  year  1470,  proprietors  of  the  fame 
lands  which  they  pofieis  at  this  day  ;  the  eflate  of  Auchin- 
reoch  fell  by  fucceflioni  in  the  beginning  of  this  century^  to 
the  Buchanans  of  Carbeth,  an  ancient  family  in  the  parifli  of 
))lillern  :  Macfarlane  of  Kirton,  a  cadet  of  the  family  of  Mac* 
farlane,  became  proprietor  of  KirtOn  in  the  year   1624  ;  the 
ellate  of  Antermony  is  the  purchafe  of  Captain  John  Len- 
nox of  AntermoAy,  a  younger  fon\)f  the  ancient  family  of 
Woodhcad.    Perhaps  this  circumftance,  which  may  pleafc 
the  pride  of  family,  is  one  g|[eat  reafon  why  the  improvement;, 
of  land  is  fo  very  backward  in  this  diftricS  \  wherever  fami- 
lies refidcd  long  upon  an  cftate  in  Scotland,  the  objeft  of  our 
Scotch  ambition  was  to  poffcft  a  numerous  tenantry,  live  as 
-they  may.    The  laird  fought  other  means  of  bettering  his 
^tuation,  than  by  the  flow  returns  of  agriculture  ;    whereas, 
Tql.XV.  2^x  '       if, 


338  Staiijiical  Account 

if  an  eftate  often  changed  its  mafter,  it  became  in  reality 
an  objeft  of  commerce,  and  every  new  proprietor  made  it 
fomewhat  belter  for  his  own  intereft. 

It  is  curious  to  obferve  the  progreffiye  rife  of  the  land  rent 
in  this  pariihy  (ince  the  year  1641  j  the  rent  of  the  plough- 
gate  in  th6fe  (Jays,  -  was  about  one  hundred  merks^  bcfides 
feu  fervices :  and  there  is  reafon  to  believe,  that  the  valua- 
tion in  Cromwel's  time,  in  this  didri£^y  was  made  as  high  as 
the  land  could  really  afford  in  rent ;  during  the  firft  years  of 
the  Reftoration,  land  feenis  to  have  rifcn,  (as  appears  from 
fome  old  tacks:)  From  the  1680,  till  the  year  1715,  it 
appears  that  the  rife  was  but  trifling ;  after  this  period  it 
Tofe  confiderably  •,  ?ind,  in  the  year  1748,  was  about  1500  L 
Sterling ;  the  next  rife  was  in  the  year  1763  ;  and,  confideri- 
ing  the  value  of  the  land  in  the  natural  poiTcflion  of  the  fmall 
proprietors  to  keep  pace  with  the  tenantry,  it  rofe  to  about 
3000 1.  Sterling.  The  land-rent  this  prefent  year,  is  betwixt 
feven  and  eight  thoufand  per  annumy  upon  leafes,  or  in  the 
natural  poffeffion  of  the  fmall  proprietors. 


Years- 

1642 

171S 

1748 

1763 

1793 

Value* 

500 

800 

1500 

3000 

7000 

By  this  ftatement,  it  is  evident,  that  land  gives  fourteen 
times  more  rent  in  money  than  it  did  150  years  ago ;  allow- 
ing for  the  fervices  and  other  preftations  payed  by  the  ten- 
ants in  thofe  days,  perhaps  we  ought  not  to  reckon  fo  high- 
ly ;  whether  this  rife,  however,  is  to  be  afcribed  to  the  gra- 
dual improvement  of  landed  property,  or  the  depreciation  of 
money,  becomes  another  queftion ;  and  perhaps  the  land- 
holders will  not  have  fo  much  reafon  to  boaft  of  their  advan- 
ced rents,  if  the  enquiry  be  fairly  made  ;  in  this  rental,  that 
f  f  cot-houfes  is  not  comprehended,  which  is  at  lead  five  hun-' 

died 


ofCdmpJie.  339 

dirci  per  atinum  5  thefc  houfes  have  iricreafed  their  rfenti  four 
Umes  the  fum  of  what  they  were  in  1745  }  even  fo  late  as 
1 760,  four  pounds  Scots  was  the  rent  of  a  cottage  with  a  fmall 
yard  annexed  to  it ;  fuch  houfes  rent  now  at  twenty  {hillings  ) 
but,  firom  the  improvement  made  on  cot-houfes,  the  rent  o£ 
a  room  and  kitchen,  or  what  in  the  language  of  the  place  is 
ftiled  a  hut  and  a  hen^  gives  at  lead  two  pounds  Sterling  \  fo 
that  the  fame  clafs  df  people  pay  for  lodging  fix  times  more 
than  they  did  thirty  years  ago  \  this  increafe  arifes  chiefly  from 
die  introdu£lion  of  manufactures ;  now,  if  the  rent  of  the  coal 
land  lime,  together  with  that  of  the  cot-houfes,  be  added  to 
the  land,  the  total  rent  of  the  parifli  may  be  dated  to  be  eight 
thoufand  four  hundred  pounds  Sterling  pet  annum. 

Prefent  State  of  Agriculture, — It  iS  ilot  poflible  to  fay  ex- 
a£Uy  what  number  of  acres  there  are  arable,  and  what  not^ 
as  theie  is  no  map  of  the  pari(h>  nor  has  the  whole  ever  been 
accurately  meafured  t  If  the  pariih  contains  fifteen  thoufand 
acres,  it  will  be  found  that  five  thoufand  of  thefe  are  arable  ; 
of  the  other  ten  thoufand,  confiding  of  brae,  of  muir,  and  paf- 
ture  land,  three  thoufand  more  may  be  made  arable  : — Of 
courfe,  it  is  about  fifty  acres  of  arable  land  to  each  plough* 

There  are  ninety-fix  heads  of  families,  who  live  on  this 
property,  either  as  tenants  or  feucrs ;  and  whofc  employment 
is  either  grazing  or  agriculture ;  but  it  is  to  be  obferved,  that 
there  are  eighteen  heads  of  families  in  this  lift,  who  do  not- 
make  agriculture  their  chief  employment ;  pofTefiing  only  a 
few  acres  of  Imd,  and  who  principally  employ  themfclves  as 
mafons,  or  carriers,  or  road  makers  j  there  is  another  diftinc- 
tion  to  be  made  of  thefe  heads  of  families,  who  employ  them- 
fclves in  agriculture ;  2&  of  them  are  fcuers,  who  farm  their 
^  X  2  own 


34^  Statifiicai  Actouni 

own  lands,  the  remainder  are  tenantry ;  feven  of  tiie&  U^ 
make  grazing  their  chief  empioyment. 

The  following  is  a  table  of  the  rents  paid  by  die  differ- 
ent graziery  and  farmers  in  this  diftriAy  ia  1793. 

No.  I        L«6oo  No.  I        L  400 

I  167  I  100 

comprehending  the  feuers  who  farm  their  own  land.  The 
rents  of  others  run  betwist  twenty  and  feventy  poundsi  ex« 
cepting  npon  the  forfeited  eftate  of  Bancloich,  where  fome 
tenants  pay  as  low  as  five  pounds  ^^f^irnvmi  they  having  got 
Icafes  of  three  nineteen  years  in  1748. 

The  labour  of  thefe  hundred  plough  gates  of  land  was  per- 
formed in  1793}  by  feventy  plough9>  drawn  by  izi  horfc% 
yoked  fe  the  following  manner : 

ao      ploughs  drawn  4  horfes.xach. 

24      ditto      drawn  by      2  horfes. 

26      ditto      drawTi  by      3  hor&s. 

The  following  table  exhibits  the  manner  in  which  the  five' 
thoufand  acres  of  arable  land  was  cropped  in  the  year  1793^ 
via. 

2000  acres  in  tillage  and'  fown  graf^,  of  which  were, 

aoo  acres  in  barley. 

1  CO  acres  in  potatoes* 
30  acres  in  lint, 

200  in  fown  grafs. 

1500  in  oats  ;  of  which,  we  may  dedu£t  20  for  peafe  antf 
beans  •,  the  remaining  3000  acres  in  ley  pafture  for  milk  cows, 
and  young  beafts. 

There  were  not  ten  acres  fallow,  in  the  whole  parifh  \  nei- 
ther were  there  above  four  acres  in  wheat  or  turnip.  Per- 
haps tliere  is  no  country  in  Sc .  thnd  more  calculated  for  rai(^ 

fng: 


r 


fifCavipJif.  34« 

In^  turnip  tb^n  Campde ;  ^t  the  fame  timc>  I  rather  think 
th^y  do  not  ft^nd  the  winter  w^W  in  this  di(tri£l  ^  I  h^ive  faid 
29  Acres  fpr  peafe  and  beans,  the  w^t  climate  rendering  thefe 
a  very  unproiitable  crop  with  us^  growing  all  to  the  ftraw^ 
without  any  pdds :  The  produce  per  acre,  at  an  average,  is 
about  fix  bolis ; — fmall  as  this  may  appear,  it  is  at  lead  one 
third  more  (ban  it  wae  thirty  years  ago  :  If  a  (Iranger  was 
to  View  our  crop  at  Lammas,  when  growing,  or  eren  in  th& 
fhock,  he  would  be  apt  to  conclude  the  produft  to  be  a  great 
deal  niore ;  the  truth  is,  our  moid  climate  produces  much 
draw  and  little  corn  \  I  believe,  it  may  Cafely  be  affirmecl, 
.  that  at  an  average  there  is  not  above  fifteen  pecks  of  meal 
out  of  the  boll  j  the  barley  produces  better,  the  foil  bein^ 
adapted  for  that  grain ;  and  it  is  faid  to  malt  remarkably 
well }  .but  the  fault  lies  more  in  the  ftyle  of  farming,  than  in 
<he  ground  itfjjf  J  fo  late  as  the  year  1763,  the  farms  w?re 
pofleiTed  in  rUn  rigg  (--^^here  Was  fcarcely  any  incl(^mg ;  the 
moment  that  the  crop  was  feparated  from  the  ground,  tha 
Cattle  of  the  neighBouring  tenants  grazed  in  common,  till 
Dcxt  Whitfunday  \  the  diftinc^ion  betwixt  out»field  and  in- 
field, was  kept  up  with  the  mod  fcrupulous  exa£^nefs')  tber^ 
was  no  rye-gfafs  and  clover  fown^  for  making  hay ;  and  the 
bulk  of  the  farmers  ploughed  their  land  ^iih  what  is  diled 
the  broad  plough,  the  four  horfes  yoked  abread  :  Thefe  pe» 
^uliari(ie«  are  now  worn  out ;  at  the  fame  time,  farming, 
both  as  to  fcience  and  praflice,  is  yet  but  in  its  infancy  in 
this  parifli.  ♦ 

Tacfcs 

*  It  is  true,  that  the  climate  is  not  good,  but  the  foil  is  excellent ;  ttiil  at 
(he  crops  mij^ht  be  adapted  to  the  climate,  there  are  great  hopes  entertained, 
that  we  ihall  one  day  excel  in  farming  :  The  following  defedks  in  our  nio4« 
Item  to  be  moft  flagnnt :  ifty  The  land  being  full  of  fprings  guihing  out, 
wherever  any  chants  of  th«  foil  takes  place  io  the  farms  j— of  C9iirf<9  noth* 

ir.g 


34^  Stati/lical  Account 

Tack$  in  this  parifii  are  commonly  let  for  nineteen  yearSj 
^ith  a  claufe  that  the  tenant  (hall  bear  the  public  burdens^ 
which,  confidering  the  land  tax,  the  ftatute  labour,  and  fome^ 
times  the  mihiftec*s  (tlpend,  at  leaft  the  vicarage^  and  fchool- 

mafter'd 

%g  but  onderdralaiDg  cm  clear  the  foil  of  fucli  a  nuifance ;  and  yet  tinfortu. 
natdy  it  is  bat  little  pra6Lifed  :  idly.  Our  indofures  are  little  better  than  rieUe 
4ykeft,  builN  of  ftones,  gathered  from  the  land,  without  any  mortar ;— K>f 
courfc,  totally  incapable  of  meliorating  the  foil  by  keeping  it  warm ;  which 
would  be  the  caife,  if  the  inclofures  were  made  with  of  qaick-fet  hedges, 
ind  behs  of  planting,  for  which  the  parilh  is  fo  remarkably  calculated;  thefe 
dykes  give  the  parifh  a  cold  and  uncomforubk  look,  ^d^,  A  great  propor- 
tion of  our  arable  landls  laid  doWn  in  the  moft  miferable  maonfcr  without 
Ibwn  grafs,  and  impoveriihed  by  three  fuccecding  crops  of  oats ;  by  this 
management,  it  is  in  a  moft  wretched  condition,  indeed,  when  broken  up  to 
dergo  anew  the  fame  rotation  of  crops  of  oats-  4/£(y,  Our  Und,  from  being  ia 
l^eneral  a  light  foil,  and  lituated  in  a  moift  climate,  is  much  addicted  to  weeds  ; 
it  is  foul  even  to  ranknefs  ;~^f  courfe,  as  the  corns  gtow  much  to  idraw^ 
the  (lalk  of  corn  is  kept  conftantly  wet  at  the  root  by  the  weeds ;  it  foon  rota» 
and  the  lead  blaft  of  wind  in  Auguft,  lodges  the  com  on  the  croft-lands  be- 
fore they  are  ripe  ;  whereas,  if  fummer  fallowing  was  pradifed,  there  can* 
aot  be  the  fmalleft  doubt,  but  our  crops  would  be  dean  and  much  earlier; 
yet  fummer  fallowing  is  fcarcely  ever  pradifed  in  this  parilh  :  Along  with 
thcfc  defers,  I  mud  mention  two  other  caufes,  which  have  not  a  little  con- 
tributcd  to  retard  our  progrefs  in  agriculture  :  In  thtfrft  place,  an  over  at- 
tachment to  grazing;  which  hath  led  the  farmers  to  ftudy  more  the  raifing 
of  fodder,  than  the  raifing  of  grain  ;  by  tills  means,  the  early. feed  oats  hare 
ftever  received  much  countenance  in  this  diftri^ ;  but,  if  we  confider  the 
moiftnefa  of  the  climate,  there  is  no  pariib  which  requires  them  more;  and 
from  the  experiments  we  have  had  of  fowing  early  oats,  upon  land  well 
cleaned  from  weeds  by  fummer  fallowing,  there  iir  every  encouragenient  to 
proceed  ;~the  grain  was  fully  ripe  and  early  houfed.  idly,  I  am  not  fur« 
but  the  proprietors  themfelvcs  have,  in  fome  meafure,  contributed  to 
the  little  progrefk  which  agriculture  hath  made  in  this  diflrid.  From  an 
opinion  that  land  was  always  upon  the  increafe,  it  has  not  been  their 
obje<5l  to  grant  fuch  long  leafes,  as  to  encourage  the  farmer  to  fink  money 
i^  improving  the  land  :  The  opinion  cbpt  has  gone  abroad  amongft  land«- 

lords. 


af  Campfie.  343 

mafter^s  falary ;  the  poor  man's  rent  is  conGderably  aqgmen<p 
ted  by  fuch  items. — ^Thcfe  things  I  don't  mention  as  griev- 
?nces,  for  the  tenant  fubfcribes  to  them  with  open  eyes ;  nor 
can  the  landlord  be  called  an  oppreObr,  becaufe  he  receives 
them  ;  they  are  alt  prcftations  of  a  fair  contrail  \  and  of 
courfcy  if  the  proprietor  did  not  cxadl  them,  he  would  be 
entitled  to  more  rent :  I  fimply  (late  them  as  defe£ls  in  our 
Diode  of  hufbandry ;  and  which  it  would  be  the  intereft 
both  of  landlord  and  tenant  to  have  removed  — Let  the  ten- 
ant know  determinately  what  he  is  to  pay,  and  let  him  have 
the  complete  ufe  of  his  time,  and  the  complete  management  V 

of  the  ptodu£l  of  his  farm.  As  ti  a  regular  rotation  of  crops^ 
it  is  but  little  known  in  this  di(lri£l.  The  old  mode  of  al- 
lowing the  land  to  ly  ley  for  three  years,  and  then  liming  it^ 
and  taking  three  crops  of  oats,  is,  indeed,  fail  wearing  out ; 
but  no  tegular  fyftem  is  as  yet  introduced  in  its  (lead. 

The  rent  of  the  arable  land  per  acf  e,  is  (lated  in  the  fol- 
lowing table : 

For 

Iord«,  that  the  raiiing  the  rents  of  their  lands  forced  the  tenants  to  Le  more 
aAave,  might  be  produdive  of  fonie  good  effed  ;  providing  chat  indolence 
was  the  only  impediment  to  a  flouri(bing  flate  of  agriculture  in  this  partlh  : 
Compulfion  is  but  a  bad  argument,  when  the  ohjed  of  that  compuUion 
has  not  ftrength  to  obey  :  1  could  wiih  that  fuch  an  idea  was  exploded ;  for 
It  is  DO  longer  the  intereft  of  this  country  to  confider  the  tenantry  upon  an 
Cftate,  M  part  of  that  eftate. 

In  England,  thingjt  feem  to  be  better  managed.  There  are  flill  feyeral 
lerritudes  remaining  in  this  pariih,  annexed  to  the  leafes  of  lands,  fuph  as 
kain  hens,  and  the  driving  of  the  lairds  coals  ;  thefe  are  indeed  but  fmall  to 
frhat  took  place  about  30  years  ago ;  but,  even  thefe  are  fetters  ^pon  the  in- 
dttftry  of  the  tenants ;— of  more  hurt  to  them  than  of  benefit  to  the  landlord ; 
and  it  is  to  be  hoped,  from  the  many  inftances  of  an  enlightened  mind  which 
the  prefent  proprietors  have  fliowD,  that  all  fuch  cafualities  will  be  aboliihed 
ya  the^firft  opportunity. 


a44  StaHJlical  AccounU 

Fdt  p6tdfoes  from  4I.  to  7I.  per  acre.        A  flylhg  crop; 

For  lint        -  i\it6   ditto  ditto 

For  good  arable      a  guinea  and  a  half.  en  leafe. 

Ordinary  arable       il.  per  acre,  -        ditto 

Inhere  is  fcarccly  any  land  in  the  ftrath  of  the  parifli  Jet 
belo#  1 1,  per  acre*  Th<f  brae  farms,  and  the  pafturc  land, 
^xt  let  by  flump ;  it  is  impofiibk  to  fay  what  they  tent  per 
icre. 

It  may  be  proper  here  to  take  notice,  that  limci  though  in 
fuch  great  abundance  in  this  pariih,  was  made  but  little  ufe 
of  as  a  manure  till  very  lately ;  the  inhabitants  pretended  e- 
ven  to  fay  that  it  fpoiled  the  ground  by  raifing  lirceds  :  the 
truth  is,  the  objcQion  lay  in  their  injudicious  management ; 
there  is  not  the  fmallcft  doubt,  where  ground  is  foul,  as  is 
the  cafe  in  the  foil  and  moifl;  climate  of  Campfie,  that  lime 
puts  the  weeds  in  vegetation  ;  but  if  the  land  had  been  fal- 
lowed, or  even  permitted  to  He  long  in  ley,  till  the  ground 
was  properly  fwarded,  there  is  no  country  in  Scotland,  wher6 
liming  produces  a  better  e£Fe£t,  than  in  this  diftrifl :  As  fomo 
recent  experiments  have  (hewn,  we  now  lime  at  the  rate  of 
from  iix  to  eight  chalders  per  acre.  Sueh  bebg  the  ftate  of 
agriculture  in  this  parifh,  it  rpay  be  faid^  withotit  dtfparage* 
nient,  that  it  is,  as  yet,  but  in  its  infancy ;  and  yet  it  wtbttt  d9^ 
ing  jultice,  botli  to  the  proprietors  and  tenants,  to  oWcfvC,^ 
that  the  improvements  are  going  on  with  gircat  fpirit  and  fuc- 
ccfs. 

Gracing. — ^Thcre  is  confiderable  attention  paid  in  this 
dlftria  to  the  management  of  bhck  cattle,  both  for  the  pur- 
pofcs  of  the  dairy,  and  likewifc  for  that  of  the  biitchcf.  The 
following  table  exhibits  the  number  of  cattle  and  (heep  kept 
in  the  parilh  in  1793. 


r 


MSkcows,  -  -  •  749 

Fat  cows  and  young  beaj^s  for  the  F^l^rk  market^  and 
thebut<;hcr,  -  .  -  .  917 

Winterers^  being  (QoiUy  graced  next  fummer  for  the 
butcher  -  r  30P 

Sheep,  being  moftly  brood  ewes,  «•  I0oo 

Thefe  749  milk-cows  a^c  kept  by  177  pcogle  \  there  are  ten 
principal  dairies,  which  confift  of  betwixt  14  to  20  milk 
cows ;  the  remainder  are  fplit  down  in  fmall  dairies,  contain- 
ing from  4  to  10  cows.  It  is  not  eafy  to  fay  what  milk  at  an 
average  is  given  per  day  by  the  cows  of  this  diftrift  ;  I  Ihould 
think  froni  7  to  1 1  Scotch  pints  \  below  7  they  are  not  thought 
worth  keeping  for  the  dairy :  above  1 1  they  are  confidered 
as  remarkable. 

About  60  of  thofe  perfons  who  have  cows,  may  be  confi- 
dered as  tradefmen  and  manufa£turers  \  it  may  be  doubt- 
ed, whether  }t  be*  of  any  ufe  to  fuch  a  perfon  to  ke^p  a 
CQW  or  not  \  fome  are  apt  to  imagine  that  it  is  calculated 
tp  inftiU  hiibits  pf  idleneft  into  the  mind«  of  their  children, 
who  (nay  be  efnployed  i^  herding  them  by  the  dykes-fide  ; 
no  dpubt,  it  will  be  confidered  as  an  ^ye-fore  by  the  far- 
mers, tp  jiUov^  the  childreri  of  tradefn>en  to  feed  their  cows 
on  the  xo^A'^Aty  to  the  prejudice  of  his  turnips  and  peafe  \  pn 
the  other  hand,  it  is  of  the  utmoft  importance  to  the  ilate  at 
large,  that  the  children  of  tradefmen  a|i4  fedentary  people 
(hould  fee  healthy :  I  know  of  nothing  more  calculated  to 
promote  that  end  |han  plenty  of  frejh  milk-  Our  milk  cows, 
within  thefe  30  years,  have  iucrcafcd  confidcrably  in  bulk ; 
9t  anstverage,  if  fattcped,  they  would  weigh  20  ftones,  Tron 
weight.  Jp  general,  they  aure  the  breed  of  Highland  bulls ; 
hence  they  haire  a  tendency  to  take  pn  flc(h|  more  t]ian  to 

Vo^i.  XV,  Y  y  give 


34^  Statijlical  Account  » 

give  large  quantities  of  milk  ;  at  the  fame  time  it  muft  be 
owned,  that  the  milk  is  remarkably  rich ;  it  being  very  com- 
mon f6r  a  cow,  which  only  gives  8  Scotch  pints  per  day,  to 
produce  nearly  a  pound  of  butter  from  that  milk  per  day. 
Campfie  has  been  long  remarkable  for  making  excellent  but- 
ter :  Till  of  late,  it  was  only  ikimm'd  milk  cheefe  which  they 
made,  of  courfe  it  was  not  very  rich  :  Now,  however,  there 
are  leveral  dairies,  which  inake  cheefe  equal  to  any  from 
Dunlop ;  and  from  the  price  which  they  receive  for  fuch 
cheefe,  they  confider  this  plan  as  more  profiiable  than  to 
make  butter. 

There  are  aboi|t  i6co  muir^ewes  k^pt  in  the  parifh,  whofc 
lambs  are  fold  to  the  Glafgow  butcher  in  the  feafon,  from 
68.  ^o  8s.  per  head  ;  they  are  commonly  taken  away  by  the 
hutcher  during  the  month  of  June,  and  the  firft  two  weeks 
pi  July.  Perhaps  we  have  the  beft  flock  of  black  faced  ewes 
that  are  to  be  i;net  with  in  Scotland  ;  they  are  completely 
muir  ewes,  and  yet  they  weigh  twelve  Tron  pounds  per  quar- 
ter, twenty  two  ounces  and  a  half  to  the  pound  :  They  are  fold 
at  a  guinea  per  head  when  fat  \  the  dock  which  I  allude  to 
belongs  to  Mr  David  Dun,  grazier,  and  they  are  paftured  up- 
on the  muir-lands  of  the  eftate  of  Kirkton,  belonging  to  John 
Macfarlane,  Efq;  In  former  times,  there  were  at  lead  4000 
flieep  in  the  parifh ;  they  were  of  two  forts  :  the  black  faced 
iheep,  with  coarfe  wool,  bought  at  the  market  of  Kilbi^de 
and  Linton  j  and  the  fmall  country  (heep,  with  white  and 
yellow  faces,  and  remarkable  fine  wodl.  From  what  the 
writer  of  this  account  rccollefts,  the  country  fheep  mull  in 
a  great  meafure  have  refembled  the  Shetland  breed  :— they 
were  the  common  breed  of  the  country ;  it  being  wedder- 
^ogs  and  Dinmonts  alone,  which  were  bought  at  Kilbrydc 
and  Linton  market.  By  fome  ftrange  fatality,  this  Southland  | 

breed  hath  crept  in^  though  the  creature  is  lefs  hardy  and 

courfer 


of  Campjie.  347 

courfer  in  the  lArool ;  at  this  moment  there  is  not  the  frhalleft 
▼eftige  of  our  country  breed  remaining,  all  the  (lock  ewes  in 
the  parilh  being  black  faced  and  coarfe  wooled  :  Two  caufes 
have  been  afligned  for  the  total  negled  of  the  native  breed : 
iA»  Since  the  rife  of  the  fieflwmeat  took  place,  it  hath  been 
the  oh]t€t  of  the  graziers  to  pay  more  attention  to  the  bulk 
of  the  carcafe  than  to  the  finenefs  of  the  wool,  adly,  About 
the  year  1763,  a  neW  mode  of  grazing  was  introduced ;  the 
face  of  the  hills  being  appropriated  to  the  feeding  of  black 
cattle,  it  was  found  that  our  native  breed  of  fiieep  were  not 
fond  of  the  courfe  grafs  in  the  muir,  conftantly  foeking  after 
the  (hort  bite  on  the  Campfie  Fells,  it  became  abfolutely  ne-« 
cciTary,  therefore,  if  we  were  to  follow  this  fyftem  of  gra- 
zing, to  procure  fuch  a  breed  of  iheep  as  were  fitted  for  the 
muir  ground. 

At  prefent,  the  wool  in  this  pariQi  I  believe  to  be  as  good 
as  any  wool  of  the  fweedfrnuir  breed  of  iheep  \  when  fmear- 
ed  with  tar  and  butter,  it  fells  betwixt  fix  and  fcven  (hillings 
per  (lone  ; — ^white,  as  it  is  termed,  fells  at  ten  (hillings  per 
(lone  \  we  expe£l  eight  pounds  of  clean  wafhed  wool  out  of 
the  (tone  of  that  which  was  fmeared ;  and  twelve  pounds 
from  the  white  wool.  It  is  chiefly  fold  to  the  country  peo- 
ple in  the  neighbourhood.  The  grazing  of  black  cattle  upoa 
brae  ground,  is  perhaps  as  well  underftood  in  this  parifh,  as 
in  mod  places  of  Scotland  ;  above  900  are  fed  annually  ia 
this  diftrift,  either  for  the  butcher,  or  the  Falkirk  market  $ 
perhaps  300  of  thefe  maybe  wintered  \  the  remainder  bought 
in  at  the  Whitfunday  markets.  .- 

The  winterers  graze  in  the  open  fields^  during  the  whole 
winter  feafon,  and  are  fed  once  or  twice  a  day  with  coarfd 
hay,  made  of  fprats  and  £r^fs, — gathered  in  autumn  amongfl: 
the  cows  feet  in  their  failure  -,  the  graziers  commonly  begiri 


34^  Satijlical  Account 

to  fodder,  as  they  term  itj  about  Chrifttttifs,  (Tt  is  tOti^A»t^ 
ed  as  a  fevere  wnntef,  SVhfen  they  are  forced  to  begin  before 
Chriftmas,)  anA  comtinne  till  ibotrt  the  beginning  oJF  A(>rily 
\irhett  the  cattle  ¥efuft  it.     There  ^fe  feV  ciittlc  grated  with 
OS  b<it  Highlanders,^  and  we  prefer  tbof«  from  Argylefliire, 
aiid  the  rOes :  Nc>tth  country  ckttle  ire  tejefted,^  as  ihey  are 
confidered  by  thit  gtaiiers  as  fctof  and  diftc«iit  to  feed  :  graz- 
ing of  Highland  tattte  \ipon  bra««groattd  in  this  dJftrifll,  6Wcs^ 
iftuch  of  tht  perf^£Boh  to  ^ich  it  has  been  brought,  to  Mr 
David  Dun,  a  native  dfthis  parilK— He  has  Q)tnt  the  bfetlfet 
of  his  life  ift  thd  ptdfefflon  of  a  fhejAcrd,  grazier,  and  breed- 
er of  cattle  J  and  his  countrymen  acknowledge,  with  pleafure, 
flic  obligations  they  are  under  to  hirtr\  for  his  fltill  and  atten- 
tion in  thefc  particulars^. — ^He  haS)  i^rith  fotne  prepriety,  befen 
fiyled  the  Scotch  Bake  well ;  for  fcvcral  y^ars,  he  giirc  1 400  !.• 
per  annum  for  ^fe«lands,  and  at  tJiat  time  did  not  fo  mttch 
as  ^to^  a  cabbage  plant ;  at  pi^cnt>  he  pays  about  800  l.j^^ 
annum  dn  current  leafes  \  he  has  bech  known,  again  and  a- 
gain,  to  fell  cattle  of  the  Higlihnd  breed,  of  his  own  f fcaring, 
^t  twelve  and  fourteen  pounds  Sterling  j)/r  head,  to  the  but- 
chers \' — ^hc  has  brought  hts  breed  of  hiuir  rwcs  to  fuch  per- 
fe^ion,  as  often  to  fell  his  tup-hogs  at  a  guinea  p&  head,  to 
the  Highland  Ihcphei^ds  for  brood  rams:  "^ He  has  fold  forty 
Or  fifty  at  this  rate,  in  a  feafon.  Befides  the  uncommon  (kill» 
which,  from  long  experience,  he  muft  have  acquired  in  the 
"  judging  of  cattle  iand  fliecp ;  there  arc  certain  uniform  prin- 
ciples which  he  goes  upon  in  grazing,  which  may  be  projJer 
to  mention  :  In  the  ifi  place,  never  tb  ftock  his  laild  fo  hea- 
vily as  his  neighbotirs,  or  even  perhaps  as  the  land  could  bear  y 
by  thi^  tocans,  his  rattle  havfe  iiW^y^  the  choice  6f  graft,  and 
he  is  ehaMed  to  ^ther  enough  amonjgft  their  feet  to  fod- 
der them  in  wiritcr.    Tke  ciittle  by  this  rneans  are  fully  fed, 
tirhich  gives  him  the  option  of  nlcrchants.    ^dlyf  By  having 

farms 


(yfCampfie.  J49 

larrtis  of  different  complexions,,  he  has  it  in  his  power  to  fort 
his  cattle  in  fuch  a  manner,  as  to  fuit  each  farm*. — ^He  has  it 
in  his  power  to  vary  their  food,  and  to  change  them  front 
farm  to  farm,  as  he  perceives  them  healthy,  taking  on  fiefii^ 
or  the  contrary,  '^dly^  In  the  manner  of  buying  his  cattle 
from  the  Highland  dealers,  he  is  very  particular  :  he  muft 
have  the  word  and  oldeft,  draughted  again  and  again  from 
the  drove,  before  he  will  purchafe  it ;  by  this  means,  he  ac- 
quires  none  hut  healthy  cattle ;  peihaps  they  may  coft  him  a 
few  fliiUings  mote  per  IrefKl,  but  it  is  foon  rcipaid.— -Scarcely 
ever  any  of  his  cattle  die  \  and  they  are  fo  evenly,  that  it  i# 
hardly  in  the  power  of  the  butcher  ^o  challenge  a  bad  beafl:  \ 
by  this  managemeitt,  his  profits  are  uniform  over  the  whole 
head ;  whereas,  when  cattle  are  {hot,  as  it  is  termed,  tbe  pixH 
^t$  ^re  greately  diminifhed.  $ 

We  are  not  to  imagine  that  the  profits  of  graziers  in  our 
brae  lands  are  very  great ;  when  the  cattle  aite  bought  in  at 
Mattinrtias,  and  kept  for  one  year  in  the  paftore,  twa 
guineas  per  head  is  expefted  as  grafs-mail ;  when  bought  at 
the  Whitfunday  market  and  kept  till  Martinmas,  one  guinea 
is  expe£):ed  per  head  y  when  thefe  profits  are  deficient,  it  is^ 
eonfidcred  as  a  bad  year  by  tlic  grazier  %  and  when  they  ex- 
ceed, it  is  confidered  as  good  times.  * 

'  Rodis. 

$  Titls  gentleman  hath  been  unfortunately  killed  by  accident,  iincB  writ- 
ing this  account.  It  happened  on  the  %'jtii  of  May  1794,  as  he  was  attending 
on  ihecp  /hearing: — Leading  a  iheep  acrofs  a  wooden  bridge,  the  rail  of  xht 
bridge  gave  way;  and  he  wa«  thrown  into  the  river ;  falling  upon  a  (lone,  he 
\vat  killed  on  the  ^poe. 

*  Notwtthfianding  the  diflrid  of  Campfie  £eems  to  be  fo  WeD  adapted  for 
the  glazing  of  cattle,  perhaps  there  are  fome  defe&s  attending  their  plan, 
which  it  nuy  be  proper  to  mention  :  i/?.  It  feemi  to  be  the  misfortune  of  the 
Scotch  in  geatraly  and  particularly  of  the  people  of  this  diihift,  that  when 

they" 


1  3j3  Staiijlical  Account 

Roads, — Great  attention  and  (kill  have  been  fliown  in  this 
article  \  the  parlfti  is  interfered  by  two  great  roads,  the  one 
a  turnpike,  leading  from  the  military  road  at  Kippin  to  Glaf- 
gow,  the  other  from  Eaft  to  Weft,  joining  the  great  Edinburgh 

road 

they  obferve  their  neighbours  thriving  in  any  profeflion,  they  immediately 
run  into  it,  without  confidering  whether  they  have  tndoftry  or  talents  to  fuc- 
ceed ;  fuch  has,  of  late,  been  too  much  the  cafe  in  the  grazing  line ;  fo  that 
now,  the  utmod  iaduflry  and  talents  can  fcarcely  enable  them  (o  lire.  The 
country  banks  afforded  abundance  of  credit  to  every  adventurer  ;  from  facb 
a  competition  amoogft  thefe  tiwiU-ie^grazurt,  the  grais-farma  are  too 
high  rented  ;  the  cattle  are  dear  bought  from  their  rearers ;  and  the  refalt 
has  been,  that  notwithftanding  the  cry  of  the  goodnefs  of  the  times,  very  lit- 
tle profit  has  been  made  by  the  people  cmbatked  in  this  profeflion ;  for  thefe 
ten  years  paft,  many  bankrupcies  have  taken  place  among  that  clafs  of  men; 
It  indulges  the  adventurous  fpirit  of  the  people,  and  therefore  will  always  be 
A  favourite  profeflion,  let  the  profits  be  what  they  will.  2J!y,  The  rage  for 
Highland  cattle  is  too  great,  more  fo  than  thefe  cattle  deferve ;  it  is  true, 
where  ground  is  high  and  much  ezpofed,  fuch  cattle  is  more  adapted  for  the 
paffcurc,  than  the  cattle  which  ihe  low  country  produces;  but  perhaps  it 
would  be  the  interell  of  the  grazier,  to  turn  all  our  brae  ground  in  fheep  paf- 
ture,  and  the'  grounds  of  the  valley  into  grals  farms,  for  lowland  cattle, 
where,  if  once  winter  food  were  produced,  and  thp  land  either  proteded  by 
planting,  or  fhades  built  where  they  might  be  fed  with  turnip  in  the  open 
air ;  the  prof^eds  of  greater  profits  upon  the  fattening  of  beafts  would  be 
procured,  than  by  the  imperfed  mode  of  buying  either  winterers  at  the  Down 
markets,  or  lean  cattle  at  Belting,  and  felling  them  at  Martinmas,  ^dly. 
There  is  another  dcfcd  which  attends  the  prefent  fyftem  of  gtazing  in  thit 
country,  and  which  tends  to  render  the  beef  of  Highland  cattle  too  dear  to 
the  confumer  ;  there  being  no  Icfs  than  three  different  claflcs  of  people  who 
muft  have  their  profits  within  the  year  :  There  is  the  drover,  who  collets 
thefe  cattle  in  fmall  parcels  from  the  rearer,  and  fclU  them  at  fairs,  at  an  ad- 
vanced price  to  the  graziers  ;  the  grazier,  again,  very  often  fdb  his  cattle  to 
the  lou^er,  who  runs  them  at  fairs  to  the  confumer,  and  fometimes  cxadls  a 
profit  almoft  equal  to  that  of  the  grazier  :  In  (hoit,  there  is  too  much  of  the 
fpirit  of  adventure  in  this  profcifiofl,  whereby  both  the  graskr  and  cocfum* 
CI  ore  lofers. 


r 


tfCampfie.  351 

road  at  Auchinreach  hocife  on  the  Eaftj  and  the  turnpilce 
road  by  Strathblane  to  Glafgow,  on  the  the  Weft ;  befidcs 
thcfc  two  great  lines,  the  turnpike  road  from  Edinburgh  to 
Glafgow  by  Falkirk,  palTes  through  Campfie  for  two  miles ; 
and  there  are  two  crofs  branches  which  ftrike  off  to  Kirkin- 
tilloch ;  fo  that  there  are  in  all  20  Englifh  miles  of  road  in 
this  diftrifl,  10  of  which  are  kept  up  by  the  converted  fta- 
tute  labour  :  It  will  be  eafily  believed  that  there  are  few  dif- 
tri£ls  more  complicably  interfered,  and,  it  may  be  added, 
fewer  ftill  where  the  roads  are  better  kept  in  order.  The 
roads  in  this  diftrifl,  before  the  a£k  for  converting  the  ftatutc 
labour  took  place,  were  miferable  indeed  ;  for  although  the 
labour  of  101  plough-gates,  according  to  the  mode  of  three 
days  of  a  man  and  horfe  in  fpring,  and  as  much  in  autumn 
for  each  plough,  might  appear  adequate  to  the  purpofe  ;  ftill, 
from  the  awkward  and  carelefs  manner  in  which  they 
wrought,  the  roads  were  hardly  paflable  in  winter  5  at  the 
fame  time,  I  am  convinced,  that  this  was  as  much  owing  to 
the  want  of  fkill  in  the  overfeers  as  to  the  want  of  dexterity 
in  the  labourers.  As  to  any  pofitive  advantage  gained  to  the 
public,  from  the  converfion  a£t,  12s.  per  annum  is  by  no 
means  equal  to  the  labour  of  fix  days  of  a  man  and  a  horfe. 
The  fum  levied  in  this  parifti  varied  exceedingly  of  late  years, 
owing  to  the  increafe  of  inhabitants ;  every  cotter  or  houfe- 
holder  paying  as.  per  annum,  it  hath  amounted  to  70I.  per 
annum,  50  of  which  is  paid  by  the  farmers  and  landholders, 
and' the  other  20I.  by  the  cottars.  Till  within  thefe  3  years, 
this  fum  was  expended  in  making  and  repairing,  and  keep- 
ing up  1 8  out  of  the  20  miles  of  road  the  parifti  contains : 
Now,  by  one  great  line  of  road  being  made  a  turnpike,  the 
whole  money  will  be  expended  in  future,  in  improving  and 
keeping  up   10  miles^  and  in  making  fuch  crofs-cuts  to  the 

great 


352  Statijlical  Jccomt 

great  branches^  as  the  farther  iinpxovement  of  the  diftrlAi 
jfhall  fuggeft ;  OJie  of  which  improvements  is  evident  to  the 
xnoit  carekfs  obfervcr ;  viz.  in  cutting  a  line  of  road  from 
Campfie  kirk  to  the  Crow  roadi  the  defiance  is  not  mu^ 
more  than  6oiO  yardst  apd  yet  to  the  ^ople  who  travel  to 
Stirling  from  this  part  of  the  ceuntyj  it  muft  {lv)rtw  the 
roa4  fully  3  mile«. 

ConGder4ng  that  t^ie  roads  were  made  upon  no  determine 
ed  plan,  but  fome times  altering  and  mending  the  old  lin^s, 
2^  circumftancea  Occurred,  it  is  wonderful^  that  in  7^  diftri^ 
where  the  ground  is  (q  uneveni  and  particularly  wheu  it  if 
<:onridered  that  one  of  the  roads  crofies  part  of  a  mountain 
800  feet  high,  that  there  (hould  be  fo  few  pulls  in  it  \  feldodi 
or  ever  is  the  rife  more  (uddex)  thau  that  of  one  foot  in  ao||« 

Upou 

y  A«  fometimc?  it  hath  b^cq  propofed  to  carry  a  turnpike  road  from 
Kilfyth  to  the  military  road  near  Bochanan  houfc,  the  feat' of  the  Duke  of 
Montrofe,  through  the  ftraths  of  CampGe,  Strathblane,  and  KiHeak-n;  and  if  a 
bridge  was  thrown  over  the  Leren,  at  the  boat  of  BaUach,  there  cannot  be 
.the  fmalleft  doubt,  that  the  great  line  of  travelling  from  the  Weil  Highlands 
to  Edinburgh,  muft  be  thnuigh  the  valley  of  Catnplle^  it  being  much  nearer 
than  eithor  by  Glafgow  or  Stirlmg  :  (fince  writing  this  account,  a  bill  hat 
pafied,  qualifying  the  heritors  of  Stirlingfhire  to  carry  this  Eaft  and  Weft  di- 
rcAion  through  the  valley  of  Fintray,  to  the  North  of  Cainpfie  hills,  and 
throBgh  the  valley  on  the  river  Bko«.  It  may  aot  be  inpreper  to  obferve 
here,  that  the  people  whogmmble  moft  in  paying  aooey  inft^ad  of  tl^  ft^ute 
labour,  are  the  cottara  and  tradefmen  ;'and  yet  thpy  are  the  greatefi  gaioeri : 
I'hey  don't  recollc(a,tbat  wherever  good  roads  cxift,  raw  materials  afc  fafily 
imported,  and  manufaAured  articles  have  ready  accefs  to  the  market :  fuch 
local  advantages,  along  with  the  cxrcumftance  of  cheap  frel,  have  been  the 
f  leat  reafoBs  of  encouraging  manofadurers  to  fettle  amoagft  ns  :  the  VT^xh 
is,  the  public,  or  the  truftees  for  the  public,  may  be  laid .  to  h^ve  fBa4e  a 
bad  bargain  when  they  agreed  (as  the  at^  of  Parliament  e^pi:ciref)  to 
fcccive  two  fiiiliingti  from  a  cottar  in  lien  of  four  days  labour^  although 

the 


ifCampjte.  353 

ttpon  the  difFerent  lines  of  roads,  there  are  nb  lefs  thai! 
ip  ftone  bridges,  4  of  which  are  a-crofs  the  Kelvin.  It  may 
be  obferved,  that  there  aire  feveral  old  cauf<^ays  in  the  pa- 
rtfh,  oh  the  line  of  road  leading  to  the  parifli  church,  which^ 
tradition  fays,  were  made  by  offenders  in  ancient  times,  by 
Way  of  penance ;  particularly  the  caufeways  made  by  the  fe- 
vcn  brothers  of  the  name  of  M*Donald  ;  thefe  fliew  the  ftile 
IB  which  roads  were  formed  in  thofe  early  days  \  as  far  ad 
can  be  perceived,  they  confiftcd  of  one  targe  whinftone  in 
the  middle,  $irith  fmaller  ones  on  each  fide  in  rows,  the 
breadth  of  the  rbad  being  about  fix  feet.  There  is  one  radi- 
cal defe£t  attending  the  roads  of  this  diftrid  ;  the  foil  being 
gravelly,  when  a  fuddcil  thaw  comes  aftet  a  fetere  froft  in 
winter,  the  ground  becomes  fo  fpungy,  as  to  be  almoft  im- 
paflable,  which  can  only  be  rcftified  by  making  a  layer  of 
beat  whinftone  below  the  water  gravel,  a  pradlicc  feldom 
followed.  The  following  table  exhibits  the  ftatc  of  out 
rbads,  and  the  prices  levied  at  the  toll-bar  : 


J.           .    *-                    ,           ' 

Miles.        £.  /.   di 

Total  line  of  road                    : 

20 

Turnpike  road 

10 

Country  road                 - 

10 

Money  levied  per  annum  in  the  parifli 

70    b    d 

From  the  ploughgates 

50    0    6 

From  the  cottars 

20    09 

.Price  of  cattle  at  the  toll-bar 

006 

Horfe  and  cart 

0     0      2 

Single  horfe 

0     0      I 

The  fcore  of  cows,  flicep,  lambs,  &c. 

005 

,     Vol.  XV.           ^            Z  z 

ManufaBurers^ 

the  %St  ezpreffes,  ihat  all  thofe  receivin^^  public  charity  fluU  be  exempted ; 
perhaps  it  might  be  an  improTement,  if  women  and  men;  after  a  c^tain  age; 
ihouldbe  excufed  from  paying  porilh  burdens;  it  would  picafc  them,  and  tbe 
public  would  not  be  great  lofcn  by  fucb  mitigation. 


354  Statijiical  Account 

Atanu/a^uns.r^At  prefent  the  leading  feature  of  this  pt^ 
riA  is  i^s  manufa&ures :  Two  v^erf  exteafive  priatfieldf 
have  been  erefted  within  thefe  nine  y^ars ;  the  one  in  the 
17859  at  the  French  miiU,  Ailed  the  Kincaid  printfield>  the 
firnty  Henderfon,  Semple  and  Company,  upon  a  farm  wluch 
they  have'  rented  from  the  laird  of  Kincaidi  at  three  pooild 
'  per  acre  ^  They  have  conftru£ted  not  only  the  moft  elegant 
machinery  for  the  calico  prtntfieJd  ;  but  have  likewife  oonw 
pteteid  a  fet  of  works  for  the  manufaAuring  all  forts  of  grain ; 
the  fall  at  this  printiield  16  22  feet;  the  grounds  are  laid 
Out  with  gVeat  tade  ;  and  in  order  tp  obtain  foft  purs  water, 
they  have  dug  a  re&rvofa'  of  120  yards  in  length,  and  farcn?' 
ty  in  bteadthj  with  a  fmall  ifland  ia  the  middki  planted 
with  Arubs. 

The  other  was  <r^£ted  in  the  year  1 766,  c6ntaiaing  a  farm 
annexed  to  it  of  about  thiity  acres ;  likewilc  at  dircc  pound 
per  acre,  where  works  uncommonlf  commodious  hav«  been 
creded ;  The  firm  of  thi^  fecond,  is  lindfi^,  Swalh  and 
Company  ;  bofh  fields  are  upon  a  leafe  of  99  years. 

Both  thcfe  works  have  been  carried  on  with  fpiric,'and|  it 
is  believed,  with  confiderable  fuccefs.  Two  circumftances 
induced  the  manufadurers  to  fettle  in  this  pariffa  -,  viz.  plen- 
ty of  pit- coal,  and  the  uncommon  fupply  of  water  in  all  fca- 
fons;  perhaps  the  circumftances  bf  being  fituated  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Glafgow,  and  of  the  Canal,  might  not  a  little 
contribute  to  fix  their  choice.  There  are  about  306  perfons, 
young  and  old,  employed  at  each  field ;  each  employs  37 
tables  for  block  printing,  and  1 7  copperplate  prefTes  \  they 
in  general  bleach  their  own  cloth  for  printing. 

At  the  Lennox  mill  print-fidd^  there  is  another  field  laid  out 
for  bleaching  lawns,  which  there  is  every  reafon  to  believe  will  - 
fuccced  perfectly  well.     The  work  people  at  the  Wcfler 

fields 


itfCampJie,  355 

field,  are  conunodioufly  lodged  at, the  new  village  of  Lenox« 
town ;  and  at  the  Kincaid,  or  Eafter  Field,  fevcral  of  the  print- 
ers have  feued  (leadings  on  the  grounds )  foihat  there  is  eve^ 
ry  probability  of  a  tteat  village  belrtg  built,  for  the  conve-r 
nience  of  its  fervants :  At  firft,  (as  Was  td  be  etpe£led  in 
all  new  works,)  the  operative  people  were  a  little  turbulent  \ 
and  conGdcring  that  they  were  a  coUediion  from  all  the  difr 
ferent  eorners  of  the  country,  enjoying  high  wages,  and  car« 
ried  away  by  the  licentioufnefs  of  the  times,  their  jurbulcnce 
was  not  to  be  wondered  at ;  but  that  is  now  all  over  ;  and 
there  are  fcarce  any  works  in  the  country,  where  th^  people 
behave  more  circumfpefUy  towards  their  employers,  and  are 
more  regular  in  their  deportment. 

Thefe  public  works  employ  each  of  them  two  Excife  of- 
ficers s  and  they  pay  of  revenoe  to  Government  about  four 
thoufand  pounds  each  per  annum. 

It  may  be  proper  to  notice^  that  although  tlie  wages  of  ca- 
lico printers  feem  to  be  the  higheft  of  any  in  the  country ; 
no  4oubta  when  the  long  apprenticefl^ip  is  confidered,  along 
with  the  unwholefome  nature  of  the  work^  the  wages  per- 
haps fliould  be  greater  than  of  moil  other  operative  people ; 
at  the  fame  time,  when  it  is  confidered,  that  the  higheft  wa- 
ges do  not  always  make  the  wealthieft  tradcfman  \  perhaps, 
if  feme  method  could  be  fallen  upon  to  reduce  the  prices, 
both  the  tradefoian  and  the  public  would  be  gainers. 

The  following  table  exhibits  the  prefent  fituation  of  one 
field,  as  far  ay  is  known  to  the  public.  There  being  nearly 
<be  fame  workmen  at  both,  the  fame  table  may  apply  to  each. 

?  2  ^  ;  Dc^ONji349:f. 


35^  Statiftical  Account 


DtpZQNATXONf. 

WAOtt  PIR  WtKC 

Block  Printers    .   .    36 

fro^ 

i8t.  to  ars.  per  wcclu 

Coppei  plates  iUtto  .    %% 

from 

17s.  to  lis.  ditto. 

Ppociilers       .    .    .  i6d 

from 

4S,  to  6s.      dhta 

Tearing  Boy»  ...    34 

If.               ditto. 

Bleachers       ...    .     %6 

Ss.                ditto. 

Engravers     ...    .    x& 

from 

iSs.  to  a2«.  ditto. 

MilnWrrghtf  ...      a 

. 

I  as.             ditto. 

Labourers        •  •    >      6 

7s.               ditto. 

Furnace  Men  ...       % 

7s.              ditto. 

Excifc  Officers    .    .       2 

icl 

per  annum. 

Revenue  to  Government, 

8cool 

per  annum. 

It  may  be  obfervcd,  that  as  the  greateft  number  of  b!ocH 
printers  at  each  field  are  apprentices,  fo,  of  courfe,  their  usa- 
ges are  fmall  in  proportion  :  Their  tnafters  are  pnly  bound, 
by  their  indentures,  to  allow  them  3s.  pet  week,  for  the  firfl 
four  years,  and  4s.  per  week,  the  lad  three  years ;  but,  oaring 
to  the  brifknefs  of  trade  for  fome  years  by  gone,  it  was  cuf- 
tomary  to  allow  the  apprentices  to  work  for  as  much  as  they 
could  make,  giving  them  the  half  of  the  journeyman's  prices ; 
at  prefent,  the  wages  of  the  calico  printers  in  this  diftrift  arc 
fomcwhat  fallen,  owing  to  the  great  number  of  tum-ovcrs  (a^ 
they  arc  termed,)  from  thofe  fields  which  have  flopped  pay- 
ment.  Whether  this  depreflion  of  their  wages  ihall  continue  or 
not,  the  ebbs  and  flows  of  the  trade  muff  determine.  Thefc 
two  printfields  pay  annually  about  nine  thoufand  pounds  Stcr- 
ling  in  wages.  This  parifh  may  now  be  faid  to  poflefs  a 
fpirit  for  carrying  on  manufaftures  of  different  forts  ;  there 
being  no  lefs  than  105  operative  weavers  in  it  j  9  of  which 
are  employed  by  private  families  •,  the  remainder  weave  to  the 
niinufaftures  in  Glafgow,  and,  as  far  as  can  be  well  afcer- 

taincd^ 


ofCamffie.  337 

tainediearn^atanaverage^frdini  twenty  pence  to  twQ  (hiU 

lings  per  day.  f 

^    .      >  Population, 

f  It  will  not  be  improper^  to  take  notice  of  a  fpecies  of  manufaAure  whidi 
)i3s  czifted  in  this  parifh  for  fome  agea  :  We  know  that  it  was  manafadliir. 
cd,  to  a  confiderable  extent,  as  early  as  t^ie  reign  of  James  ^he  6th,  which 
goes  by  the  name  of  the  Camplle  gray  ;  and  was  then  confidered  as  the  fta- 
ple  of  the  couxktry.  It  may  b« -proper  to  defcribeit :  It  was  fjiiun  about  the 
grift  of  nine  cuts  out  of  the  pound  of  wool,  each  cot  coh&fting  oi  fixty  thrcadi, 
fix  quarters  long ;  it  was  dyed  a  blue  colour  in  the  wool,  and.  wove  for  a  pen« 
ny  farthing  the  ell,  in  a  ten  porter  or  two  hundred  reed  ;  they  fcldom  mAdc 
it  broiider  than  half  an  ell  and  a  nail  of  dr'efTcd  cloth;  and  they  fold  the 
double  cU  from  half  a  crown  to  three  Ibillings ;  fo  that  the  weaver  had  for  the 
^ngle  yard  little  moie  than  fifteen  pence?  It  wasfpnn  by  the  women  in 
private  families  during  the  famracr;  it  being  cuftomary  for  each  family  to* 
have  two  of  thcfe  webbs,  one  of  which  was  got  drcfTed  againft  Marti(ima«, 
and  fold  to  pay  the  maftcr*8  rent ;  the  other  againft  New-years-day;  the  pro- 
fits of  whi^  werit  ta  fupply  the  demands  of  the  family.  The  fairs  of  Kil- 
fyxh  were  the  great -markets  fiat  the  dlfpofal  of  thefe  gray  webs ;  the  f<^rvaiit 
lads  ufod  to  coUedl  from  all  the  neighbouring  paiiihs,  in  order  to  fupply  them- 
felves  with  fuits  of  Campfic  Gray  ;  which  they  would  eadly  do,  at  the  mo- 
derate expence  of  nine  pounds  Scots ;  and  perhaps,  few  countries  ever  fupply- 
ed  a  more  cheap,  decent,  and  profitable  ctoathing  for  working  people  ^Xt 
WM  all  ipon,  ai  it  ta  termed,  upon  the  muckU  wheel ;  and  a  woman  ufcd  to  eafia 
three  pence  per  day  befides  her  vi&uals  ;  It  would  be  improper  to  pafa  over 
the  breaking  of  the  gray  web,  a  fcene  of  joy  and  gaiety,  which  will  not 
ibon  be  forgot  in  thisi  part  of  the  country  :  If  a  private  family  was  to  have 
their  wool  prepared  for  fpinning,  a  number  of  country  lafics  were  invited  in 
order  to  card  it;  they  generally  afi*embled  in  the  barn;  during  the  day,  a 
large  piece  of  eheefe  was  cat  from  the  kebbock,  and  wrapt  up  in  a  white 
cloth,  and  hid  by  one  of  the  damfels ;  at  the  gloming,  the  young  lads  ufed  ta 
aficmblei  in  order  to  fearch  for  this  eheefe,  and  peculiarly  fortunate  was  that 
young  man  confidered  to  be,  who  (having  received  a  watch  weird  from  fome 
of  his  fair  friends,)  found  out  the  eheefe,  and  had  the  opportunity  of  dividing 
it  aroongfi  the  fimpering  damfels.  Both  the  manufadures  and  days  of  inno- 
cent  amufement  are  gone ;  nor  has  the  manners  introduced  by  ptiblic  works 
repaired  the  lofs;  it  muft  bex>wned,  however,  that  fince  manufaduret  were 
introduced,  therevis  an  uncommon  degree  of  adivity  which  pervades  tbisdif- 
trid,  and  which  accompanies  the  people  in  all  their  opeiations ;  and  perhaps, 
indeed,  I  would  rather  be  difpofed  to  pronounce  the  charadler  of  the  people 
fp  this  phce  inclined  to  merchandife  and  adventure. 


35^  Statifikal  Account 

Pifuiaihfi.^^Ttas  {nrefent  year,  1 793^  vhen  th«  numtoitioti 
was  made,  there  were  25 1 7  fouls.  The  p  pulitioD  of  this  p^ 
riih  has  increafed  900,  fince  December  1 783,  the  number  then 
being  1627.  In  Dr  Webfter*d  aCCOuitt  it  h  given  tip  tt  1400. 
From  feV^t^  fids  in  the  pofleflioh  bt  the  writer  of  tliis  ac« 
count,  the  population  of  this  parifli  feems  fomewhat  to  hare 
deeclinedfrom  the  Revolution  till  the  year  1763^  The  ehief 
Cauft  which  has  been  affigitcd  for  this  drcumftance,  was  the 
throwing  feretal  fmall  tenements  together,  making  one  large 
farm,  whereby  a  number  of  families  were  thrown  out  of  bread, 
and  obliged  to  emigrate  jto  large  towns  for  their  daily  fiib- 
fiftence.  The  numbet  tf  houfdiolders  dr  reeks,  previous  Co 
*h€  '7^3>  I  cannot  matk  pofitlvely  ;  in  that  year  there  were 
317;  population  then  being  fomewhat  better  than  five  to  a  - 
family  i  in  the  prefent  year,  there  are  609  houfehoMers,  or 
people  who  keep  reeks,  fo  that  the  number  of  fouls  have  n^t 
kiereafed  in  the  fame  proportion  as  that  of  houfeholders :  the 
^eafoh  is  obvious  :  fevetal  young  people,  printers  and  pencil* 
lers,  at  the  different  printfields,  keep  houfe,  either  fingly,  or 
perhaps,  though  married,  have  not  as  yet  more  tfaaB*ene 
child ;  fo  that  the  populatioti  in  this  parifii,  even  fuppofilig 
At  houfeholders  not  to  increafe,  is  not  cottic  to  its  juft  level. 
To  fliew  the  proportions  from  the  Revolution  to  the  year 
i7<$3i  ^  have  fubjoined  the  following  table ;  each  ftatcmeat 
containing  the  average  of  baptlfms  for  five  years : 

It 

Tdirc.         B^ptifinl.  Ararsge.    Y^kru         feftptifiaBfl.         ATtrage. 


11696 

49 

173* 

3» 

t76o 

47 

1733 

43 

i7ot 

47 

>734 

aS 

17?>4 

41 

1735 

44 

X705 

49 

m^ 

43 

4«  —  3« 


tifCamfdU,  350 


Yofi. 

fiapttiffif. 

ATcnj^* 

Yetra,  • 

Bapttfinv 

»750 

37 

X773 

33 

I75t 

51 

1774 

39 

■75* 

39 

— 

1751 

4» 

t1%x 

3» 

»7i4 

37 

178* 

40 

— 

41 

-     X7?3 

4* 

I76€ 

37 

1784 

50 

1763 

d^ 

1785 

46 

1764 

44 

— 

17^5 

34 

■X78f 

94 

1766 

29 

1790 

79 

— . 

34  ♦ 

X79« 

IS 

1770 

3.6 

179a 

89 

^771 

44 

1793 

XX5 

I7f» 

ZS 

— 

37 


43 


It  may  be  i)bfeivcd  d^t  the  regifter  of  marriages  feem«  to 
confirm  the  fame  opinion,  that  the  population  had  decreafed 
from  tiie  Revolution  to  the  year  1763  f : 


Yean. 

Mariiages. 

Average. 

Yean. 

Marriages 

1696 

17 

X790 

a6 

i?97 

19 

1791 

34 

1^98 

%% 

i79» 

a7 

,706 

18 

X793 

a6 

X707 

%% 

— 

It  k  not  fo  eafy  to  afcertain  the  average  of  deaths,  as  no 
regiiRer  feems  to  have  been  kept,  previous  to  the  year  179O9 
but  for  thefe  laft  four  years  it  ftands  thus : 

Tearii 

*  This  period  feemt  t0  have  been  the  lowcft,  at  is  Ukewife  evident  from 
the  regifter  of  marriages.  % 

f  It  appears,  as  far  as  the  regifter  of  marriages  is  entire^  that  the  niuil^ 
W  decreaied  to  about  za ;  it  Is  noir  about  %%  uaauStf^  as  appe%n  freih  tlw 
fiftofthc4]aft7earai 


^6o  IStatiJ^ical  Account 


Veaw. 

Deaths. 

Average. 

Year*. 

Deatha. 

Avehige 

1790 

38 

I7^» 

3» 

1791 

41 

X793 

34 

36 

Allowing  our  rcgiftcrs  to  have  been  accurately  kept,  which 
I  believe  to  be  as  much  the  cafe  as  in  mod  country  parilhet  i 
it  is  evident  that  they  are  regulated  by  no  general  rule :  The 
fudden  influx  of  inhabitants  have  varied  thefe  regifters  ex- 
ceedingly. The  following  table  exhibits  all  the  fa£ls  rda« 
tive  to  the  prefent  ftate  of  population  : 


DiSlGNATtONS,  &C. 

61  the  three  laft  years  of  burials,  the 

HoufcholdcTf, 

6<59 

difeafes  ftand  thus : 

"inhabitants*        •            • 

4517 

Died  of  fevers,                 • 

Miles, 

i»34 

Small.pox, 

15 

Females,           ;           i 

xipa 

Confiimptions, 

a6 

Below  xo  yean. 

881 

Palfy, 

Born  in  the  parifls. 

1334' 

Afthma,                • 

Incomers, 

1 190 

ChincQiigh, 

6 

Baptlfms 

90 

Bo^elhivc,  (vulgarly  ttilcd.) 

Vantages, 

i% 

Mealies, 

Burials, 

i6 

Child-bed,              .              : 

Above  ninety, 

0 

Still-born,            * 

AboTe  eighty,                • 

5 

Mortification, 

Above  fevcnty, 

xoo 

Old  age,               : 

9JS 

What  is  now  ftiled  confuiAption,  feems  to  have  been  un- 
known in  this  diftri^l  about  60  years  ago ;  and  I  believe  ge-^ 
nerally  unknown  in  Scotland  :  Many  caufes  have  been  af- 
figned  for  this  fafi,  by  medical  men.  Where  people  were 
cloathed  in  plaiding^  which  fomewhat  refembles  flannelj  as 
was  the  cafe  till  very  lately  in  this  di{tri£t,  and  where  they 
fekiom  were  confined  to  work  in  warm  houfes^  as  is  now  the 
cafe,  great  colds,  the  forerunners  of  confumption,  would  not 
cafily  afie£l  them. 

Of 


f 


9/Ui^pJt, 


i^i 


tit  ^s  paptiI:ttion  we  hare  fobjolned  the  following  tiUe^ 
{hewing  hoW  they  were  employed  fprin^  1792 

Of  the  88i  below  ten  ycar«  of  age,    Block-pnntert 
tiirt-te  t*ere,  At  thfe  tour  drfcrcnt    Stockin^-tfiikerl  .  ' 

ftK66li  M  thift  ^al-iffi,        •        soo    CwpperfUit  frtU-jpt'mtett 

The  fctnimtng  were  iofanu  in  the&r 
parents  houfcf,  capable  of  no  em- 
ploymenty  .  .         681 

'the  remaining  8co  males  ab<7ve  Wn 


Tearing  b#y»  .  » 

Coalllers  .  • 

Lime-quarriers 

H^I-men  at  the  di^erent  pltl 


years  of  xgc,  are  eiiiployed  in  tile    Ct^iers  and  Carriert 


following  tfiatitiet : 
Centlemea  who  life  on  their  renti  8 
Mlnider  of  the  Eaabli(hoient  I 

MInlder  of  a  Relief  meeting  Kou^e  I 
Surgeon  .  .  i 

Parnierv  and  g^iieN  f6 

Weavert  .  i  105 

Tailors  .  .  S. 

Hoafe-carpcntert  •  zi 

A'liln-wrights  .  .  6 

^lack-fmithf  m  four  fhopi        .       9 
Shoe-makers  •  •  5 

Bzcife-officers  who  fefide  in  the  pa- 

riHi  ...  9 


liabourcrs     •       .  • 

HouXe  fcrvants  to  tJie  gentry 

Farmers  and  graziers  ferrantt 

Publicans 

Schoolmsflerk 

^tudefiti  * 

Orave-digger 

Millers  i  • 

Lint-dreffers  and  glovers 

Shop-keepers  and  chandlqfs 

Bleichert 

t)ytn  i  'i 


74 

2% 

70 
46 
40 
id 
Id 
90 
It 

93 

if 

4 
4 

X 

7 

7 

ti 

6d 

x# 


A  TAbU, 
Shelving  h(nv  the  ^co  females  are  efnptoyed  ia  t79fj« 


Wives  to  the  diifercDt  houfchold- 

'  ers  .  .  410 

daughters',  rcfiding  in  their  pa- 
rents familiei  .  170 
Sevatitrio  gentlemen's  families      26 
Menial  fcrtf  ants  to  the  farmers  and 
different  houfcholdcrs  in  the  pa- 
rilh             .             •               no 
'As  fempftrefles  and  maixtna  ma* 
-  kers              .  1%. 

Vol.  XV.  3  . 


Mldwives  •  •  ^ 

The  rcTT.ainlng  fcventy-onc  are  ei- 
ther  widows  or  nnthafried  wd. 
meri,  who  rtfide  in  cot-honles  yt 
Of  the  married  women  and  young 
perfons,  refiding  in  their  parent! 
houfe^,  there  maybe  about  one  hun- 
dred and  fisty  Tfrho  pencil  calico  ta 
the  print-fields. 

^  Pwr, 


3^2  Statijlical  Account 

Poor. — ^Evcry  attempt  hath  been  made  by  the  heritors  s&id 
felEon  to  difcourage  begging ;  as  yet  their  efibrts  have  proved 
abortive ;  and  although  ac  this  moment  there  is  not  a  fidgle 
perfon  in  this  parifh  underftood  to  be  a  common  beggar,  we 
are  ftill  peftered  with  vagrants.  The  poor  which  we  coun- 
tenance as  fuchj  generally  relide  along  with  their  childrenj 
or  fome  near  delation  \  they  receive  their  allowance  on  the 
firft  Monday  of  each  month ;  6%»  per  month  is  the  higheft 
fum  given  ;  none  receive  lefs  than  three  \  at  an  average  there 
are^2o  conftantly  upon  our  lift.  The  funds  from  which  they 
are  paid  are  the  colleftions  at  the  church  door,  the  mort- 
cloth  fees  and  proclamation  money,  together  with  the  inter- 
eft  of  570I.  of  which  500I.  is  fecured  on  heritable  property 
at  5  per  cent  intereft,  payable  twice  ia  the  year :  The  other 
70I.  is  lodged  in  bank^  payable  on  demand  in  cafe  of  an  e* 
mergency  j  from  thofc  funds  we  have  been  able  as  yet  to  fup* 
fupply  the  wants  of  our  poor-  The  coUedions  at  the  facra- 
ment,  including  the  preparation  and  the  thankfgiving  daysj  are 
applied  to  the  relief  of  thofe  indigent  houfeholders^  wbofe  fi- 
fituation  is  not  fo  prefGng  as  to  make  them  objeds  of  the  or* 
dinary  charity.  Although  it  is  believed  that  the  law  allows 
kirk  feffions  to  take  pofleflion  of  the  effects  belonging  to  the 
paupers,  fo  foon  as  they  grant  them  fupply  \  we  have  an^iouf- 
ly  avoided  being  too  ftricfi  in  this  particular  \  for,  callous  as 
the  relations  of  the  pauper  may  be,  it  is  ftill  an  indncemen^ 
for  them  to  afllll  a  little  \  whereas,  if  they  had  no  profpe^  of 
fucceeding  to  the  trumpery,  fmall  as  it  is,  the  whole  care  of 
their  relation  would  be  tlirown  upon  the  parifli  \  and  it  is 
welt  known  that  iSd.  per  week  is  not  adequate  to  all  the  ne** 
ceffities  of  lodging,  clothing,  and  feeding  a  pauper.  The 
EngliHi  fyftem  is  to  fupport  the  poor,  the  Scotch  to  aflifl« 

them. 

The 


of  Campfie.  363 

The  fefion  in  this  parifli  has  hitherto  taken  the  complete 
maiKigefiient  of  fupplying  the  poor  %  the  heritors  meet  once 
in  the  yvar,  or  two  yeats,  as  it  fuits  them,  to  examine  and 
pafs  their  accoonta ;  and  it  may  be  faid  here,  as  in  every  pa- 
rifli in  Scotland,  diat  it  is  the  cheapeft  and  bed  managed  pu- 
blic fund  in  Great  Britain  ;  the  only  expence  incurred  with 
us  IS  of  one  guinea  per  annum  allowed  to  the  feflion-clerk, 
for  keepsngthe  books,  ^efides  the  public  parochial  chanty, 
there  arc  two  other  charitable  inftitutions,  which  have  lately 
been  founded  in.  the  parifli,  the  one  known  by  the  name  of 
the  CampGe  Benevolent  Society,  inftituted  in  the  year  178(5, 
and  whofe  capital  already  amounts  to  1 1  oL  which  Society 
allows  3s.  to  its  members  per  week  if  bed-rid,  atid  2s.  per 
week  if  merely  incapable  of  work  5  the  other  inftitution  is 
connefted  with  the  Lennox -Kilwinning  mafon  lodge ;  its  ca- 
pital is  7el.  s  it  likewife  allows  liberally  to  its  indigent  mem* 
l>ers. 

Tlie  annual  difl)urfement8  by  the  feflion  are  between  60 
and  70I.  Sterling  per  annum.  This  parifli,  confidering  its 
'  riches^  and  its  population,  .could  aflbrd  its  poor  a  great  deal 
more,  providing  an  aiTefTtnent  took  place ;  the  mode  of  pro- 
vifion  by  colIe£lions  at  the  churchdoors,  has  been  confider- 
ably  hurt  by  a  Relief  meeting-houfe,  which  hath  lately  been 
ereded  in  the  parifli ;  the  colle£lions  made  at  thefe  houfes. 
being  either  employed  to  pay  their  minifters,  or  to  pay  the 
debts  incurred  in  building  their  chapels,  nofke  is  given  to  fup- 
port  the  regular  poor  \  fuch  houfes,  therefore,  upon  their  pre- 
fent  footing,  are  extremely  prejudicial  to  the  Scotch  mode  of 
providing  for  the  indigent  ||. 

3  A  2 

I  From  the  opportunity  that  the  writer  o£  this  account  has  had,  aJ  a  na- 
tive of  this  pariihy  of  attending  to  the  ftate  of  the  poor  in  tliis  diflridl  he  can- 
not help  taking  notice  of  a  remarkable  trait  of  the  degeneracy  of  the  prefect 

age 


3^4  Stati/lual  jfccouni 

Of  the  Church — Campfie  ms  a  paffbrngc ;  ^  parfon  of 
Campfie  w^s  the  SaK^nft^n  of  (bp  Q^tMlk  of  Gl9%pw ;  of 
cpurfe,  hp  ipiift  hart  been  one  of  tbe  refidftntary  C9|iofi$ ;  hf 
had  a  houfe  in  the  Rattexirtov  of  iCilafgow,  fiod  to  be  ftUl  in 
f  xiftence  \  and  was  accui^omed  to  ferve  the  cure  at  Campfic 
by  %  vicar.  As  this  parifhy  in  Ronaan  Catholic  timds,  isontained 
above  150  plough*f;atP8  of  land)  from  which  th^  parfondrcw 
tithes  \  the  probability  is,  that  the  living  vaa  confideiable. 

Attendiog 

fgc.  About  35  yuan  ago,  it  ^voold  have  been  confidcrcd  as^tfgvfiecliiU^  chU«, 
drcn  to  have  allowed  their  parents  to  be  fupported  by  the  fefllon,  or  even  the 
more  diftant  relations  of  brethren  or  nephews,  to  have  heard  of  theif  fiftcrs  ot 
liDclcs  cail  upon  the  box,  ai  they  termed  k;  it  is  now  gftonilhing  with  wlUft 
l^reedineis  people  receive  pi|blic  char^y ;  they  fomeiyhft  ^oi^lider  it  p  ^  p^« 
iion,  to  which  they  are  entitled.  It  ts  not  uncoi^imoq  to  perceiyt  cjii^rcfl 
fnjoying  high  wages,  and  indulging  ^n  many  of  the  gaieties  of  life,  negleji^iog 
their  aged  parents :  fuch  unnatural  condud  was  nqt  congenial  once  with 
Scottiih  Independence,  and  that  dignified  pridd,  which  charaAerized  our  fore- 
f^theti,  in  duir  more  yirtuou9  days.  Mieii  a  pauper  ditf»,'{t  \%  cuftomary 
for  the  fefiion  to  provide  the  (oifin  and  ^ioding^li^et,  a«^  fi^f^clf^f  giattfi 
And  if  there  (hall  be  no  relation  of  t^e  dcceafed  iq  the  parifli^  fp  c^t^ibm^  (of 
the  little  entertainment  necefl^ry  at  the  funeral,  which  felJoqi  happens,  ji. 
Is  allowed  for  foch  ^rpence.  As  it  might  tend  to  throw  more  light  upon  the 
poUtical  fituatioD  of  a  country,  to  ennhe  at  what  age,  and  what  are<hc  dafs 
pi  people  of  which  the  paupers  of  p  P*riAi  are  copi^e^,  I  hfvf ^^inted  the 
following  Ublc,  compre|iendipg  the  difepeiu  pewif  fif  »i^ifGfva,  and  t^ 
fums  given. 

No.  of  paupers  on  our  lift,  •  •  '    •  %l 

Of  thefe  there  are  Ujxis^  .'         ,  •  %h 

Males,  .  •  !  r  9 

Above  fixty  years  of  age,  ^       .  •  •  19 

The  average  of  the  years  of  their  receiving  chafity,  -f 

0f  this  number  of  paupers,  there  are  &o  lefs  jdian  five  facile  in  their  mind,  % 
The  higheft  fum  giircii  is  per  month,  .  .  6«, 

It  would  appear  that  h  is  only  the  hun4redth  part  of  the  whole  iQ}u|bi> 

tants  who  require  public  charity, 
Of  thcfc  twenty  five  paupers,  fight  arf  unmarried  wpflic^. 


Aa^9&)g  to  &)t  di^^QP  of  biQipps  churches;  and  inenf4 
4^iireht3>  U  M^u  OQ^  of  the  hifl^opd  phurchea  gifted  hf 
DM4ld»  £arl  af  Lena^i:,  tp  ih^  $ee  of  Gbfgpw*  in  ^c  y/ear 
.I970*  Thofe  who  dtlight  in  magnifying  the  riches  of  the 
church  of  Roroe^  take  particular  pleafurc  in  pointing  out  the 
yard  where  the  parfon  of  Campfic's  cor^j-ftacks  were  arrange 
^,  ^pd  th^  .file  of  tbp  P{iil  which  wae  cQpfiUntly  c|ppjpy?4 
in  grinding  his  grain.  Tl^era  16  re^&m  to  believe^  th^t  he  was 
not  the  }eaft  wealthy  heritor  of  his  pariih.  Previous  to  the 
Reformation,  we  know  that  ^^mberton  and  Beaton  were 
parfpns  of  Campfie^  :^nd  afterwards  both  pf  tliern  biQipps  of 
gt.  J^sJsa^sm^  rn^^t  who  niadc  fome  figure  in  their  da  jr.*. . 

The 

"*  Oince  the  Reformation,  the  names  of  the  clergf  who  filled  that  charge, 
and  the  daces  of  their  admlflion,  have  been  preft^rved  hi  the  presbytery  re- 
cords of  GIa%ow  ;  and  they  fumifli  in  with  a  pretty  good  fpedmen  of  the 
fpirit  of  the  times.  There  is  reafbn  to  helieve,  that  the  clergyman  of  this 
]^ih  epBtiniiod  Roman  Catholic,  and  a'ccafionaUy  performed  this  facred 
fuifUoQ  ua  the  parifb,  tiU  the  year  I572 ;  he  i«  fiiid  to  have  been  a  branch  of 
the  family  of  Mare  :  about  that  time,  we  find  a  Mr  William  Erikine,  a  re- 
Jatipn  Jikewife  of  the  MAa%  family,  parfon  of  CampOe;  he  was  afterwards 
titular  Arcfabiihop  of  Glalgow  ;  he  is  fatd  never  to  have  been  in  holy  orders : 
How  ^acng  he  contioued  parfon  of  Campfie,  we  know  not ;  but  we  find, 

I^,  Mr  pcoddart^presbyurian  mini&er  of  Campfie,  on  the  3d  of  November 

2«/,  Mr  Jamei  Suwart  is  fettied  aiJifliMit  »n4  fucceiTor  the  35th  of  March 
1607. 

3i,  Mr  John  Crifbtop  w»s  admiued  the  %%^  of  A}Vil  9693  :  He  vrasdepc 
fedlfor  what  wa^  called  corrupt  jdoi^iup  :  There  is  a  tradition  in  the  parifli, 
that  he  was  fuch  a  remarkable  il^ut,  well  breathed  piao,  that  he  could  ^ajyi^ 
In  forty  minutes  to  thf  top  of  the  Campfi^  Fells,  eating  a  peafe  bannock,  to 
a  fpot  which,  tp  this  day,  goes  by  tbp  name  of  Crichtoo*s  Cairn. 

^h^  Mr  Alexander  Forbes  was  admitted  tbe  z6th  of  December  1629 ; 
and  was  depofed  for  not  cooforouBg  to  the  Synod  pf  Q^fgoW«  00  the  third 


366  Statijlkal  AccounU 

The  progrefs  of  the  ftipends  of  this  pariib,  \  have  not  been 
able  to  afcertaln  accurately  priOT  to  the  year  1618:  It  is  then 
decbred  to  be  two  chalders  of  meal  and  600  merks :    In  the 

•  year 

/ 

$th^  Mr  Joho  Collins  was  admitted  the  id  of  November  1641 ;  he  was  mur- 
dered in  returning  from  the  prcBbytCTy  about  Martinmas  164S;  the  fufpi- 
ctoQ  &U  upon  the  bird  of  Balglaf«»  a  fmiU  heritor  in  thte  pirifh,  who  was  ob- 
liged 10  fly  the  countr  J  to  avoid  puniflimeot| 

tiUy  Mr  Archibald  PenniAon  Tvas  ordained  the  jcth  of  March  1(^49 :  He 
was  depofed  by  the  protellers  in  1 65 5,  about  which  depofition  Principal  Bail* 
lie,  in  his  lettrrf,  makes  the  following  remark  :  He  was  reftored  in  the  year 
766t,  and  died  1679;  there  is  a  traditionary  anecdote  mentioned  of  him, 
which  fomewhat  marks  the  charaAer  of  the  man.^->In  the  year  1655  he  had 
be^tin  a  difcourfe  on  a  text,  and  half  Qnifhed  the  firft  head.-*-in  the  year  l66r^ 
when  reflored,  he  took  up  the  fecond,  prefacing  his  difcourfe,  by  £iyiiig,tbai 
the  times  were  altered,  but  that  the  dodrioei  of  the  gofpei  al-e  always  the 
fame. 

Principal  Baillie,  in  his  letters,  fpeaking  of  Mr  Denniflon  lays,  <*  he  was 
"  dcpofed  by  the  proteflcrs  in  i6j5 ;  for  his  part,  he  faw  nothing  evil  of  the 
<*  man.  The  proteflers,  fays  he,  put  in  his  room  a  Af r  John  Law,  a/Mr  hut^ 
*<  Ur  callartj  who  had  but  lately  left  his  trade,  and  hardly  knew  hisgraoupafi: 
•«  bnt  they  faid  he  ^z&giftd^^ 

7f4,  Mr  John  Law  was  ordained  by  the  protcfterg  in  1656  ;  He  was  ejec- 
ted  i66r,  and  was  reftored  x688  ;  he  never  officiated  again  in  Campfie. 

8/A,  Mr  George  Miln  was  iBfiituted  a4t|i  June  1681 :  He,was  tamed  ool 
at  the  Revolution,  and  was  exceedingly  ill  uGed;  ttie  worthVds  partof'tfac 
parifh  having  rifen  in  a  mob  and  broke  his  furniture,  and  threatesed  hispfii>» 
fon ;  this  gentleman,  however,  h'^  way  of  retaliation,  carried  away  the  re- 
cords of  the  pariih. 

9/^  Mr  John  Govan,  whp  had  been  imprifoned  in  the  Bafs,  in  James  the 
7th'»  time,  was  ordained  minifter  of  Campfie  on  the  5  th  of  December  16S8 ; 
he  died  a  hatcheler  the  17th  of  Septetnbcr  1749. 

io/£,  He  was  fuccecdcd  by  his  nephew  Mr  John  Forrcflcr,  a  brother  of 
Forreflcr's  of  Dinovan ;  be  died  in  September  I731,  at  the  age  of  15. 

Wthy  He  was  foceeeded  by  Mr  John  Warden,  a  fen  of  the  miniflcr  of 
Gargwmock ;  he  was  ordaibed  the  3d  of  April  173a ;  which  gentleman  was 
tranflat^d  to  Perth^  a»d  afterwards  to  tbe  Canongate  of  Edinbrn-gh.  He  was 
fucceeded  by  ^Ir  Wiliam  BeU«  a  natfvc  of  EcJcsfcchan,  DumfrieslhiFe ;  who 


ofGampJlc.  367 

year  1649^  an  augmentktion  of  a  chalder  of  ineal,  and  one 
hondred  pounds  Scots,  was  granted ;  and  in  the  1985,  a  new 
augmentiotai .  was  granted ;  fo  that  the  ftipend  now  is  3o  i. 
Sterling  in  money,  two  chalders  of  meal,  and  one  chalder  of 
barley  :  It  would  appear,  that  very  foon  after  the  a£):  pa& 
fed,  ordaining  glebes  to  the  reformed  clergy,  that  four  acres 
and  a  half  of  arable  land  was  allocated  to  the  minifter  of 
Campfie  :  In  the  year  1646,  when  a  disjundion  and  annexa- 
tion took  place,  three  acres  and  a  half  more  were  allocated 
for  pafture ;  but,  owin'g  to  the  turbulence  of  the  times  which 
followed,  the  minifler  never  feems  to  have  been  in  poflaffion 
of  them  -,  fo  that  at  pre&nt  the  glebe  of  Campfie  is  deficient 
in  pafture  ;  the  heritors,  about  30  years  ago,  bought  an  acre  of 
land,  adding  it  to  the  four  acres  and  half,  without  fpecifying 
whether  it  was  in  part  of  pafture  or  not.  Till  lately,  it  was  cuf- 
tomary  for  the  minifter  to  ufe  fome  overt  aQ  to  prevent  pre- 
fcription  running  againft  him,  anent  the  three  acres  and  a 
half  which  had  been -allocated  for  pafture.  For  fome  time  af- 
ter the  Reformation,  it  would  appear  that  the  clergyman  had 
lived  in  the  vicar's  houfe.  In  1^27)  a  houfe  was  built  aien- 
arly  for  the  purpofe  of  lodging  the  minifter ;  it  was  a  fmali 
houfe  of  two  ftories,  thatched  with  ftraw :  In  1727,  a  new 
houfe  was  built  on  the  fame  fite ;  which  houfe,  along  with  the 
ocffieft,  was  repaired  in  the  year  1785,  at  the  very  moderate 
expence  of  one  hundred  and  twenty  nine  pounds*  The  church 

confifted 

wu  ordiined  the  a4th  of  S«peeml>er  1747,  and  died  the  8th  of  May  1783. 

\^thy  He  waj  fuccecded  by  the  piefcnt  incumbent.  Thirteen  clergymen 
have  therefore  officiated  in  this  parifh  ilnce  the  Reformation,  at  leaft  fince  the 
year  1582 ;  whieh,  at  an  average,  it  nearly  x6  years  to  each  idctimbent ;  but 
what  is  very  aftonifliing,  out  of  that  number  no  le&  than  five  were  eje^ed  on 
account  of  the  turbulence  of  the  times,  and  one  laid  to  have  been  murdered ; 
lads,  vrhich  ihould  lead  ui  to  vaJue  the  peaceable  and  happy  timet  in  uhLh 
wc  live. 


^68  Statiftical  Accoutd 

tdfififted  briglnally  of  three  parts :  i/,  Whatt  they  called  fioA 
Urk )  a^,  (be  quire ;  and,  3^,  the  Ttftry  $  which  correfpooded 
to  the  ufes  required  in  the  Roman  CadioHc  times  3  it  was 
repaired  in  the  yedr  177I :  At  ptcfent  it  would  be  by  fa*  too 
fmall  for  the  parlfh^  if  a  rdief  meeting-honfe  had  not  beeil 
€te£ted.  The  kirk  of  CampTie,  like  mod  df  the  chitfches  in 
popifh  times,  i^  fttaated  it  the  ehd  Of  the  ^^rifli  j  whedier 
this  was  from  accident^  or  from  choke  of  the  clctgyj  toiix  it 
xn  the  mofk  dcfircable  fp<rt,'  is  hot  ea(y  to  determine.  Ifj  boW^ 
ever,  the  population  of  this  cKftri£t  continues  to  increafr^ 
there  irtll  be  an  ibfoldte  necefflty  of  bttilding  a  more  cOta* 
modioos  church  in  a  morfe  centriciil  fpot,  for  the  better  ac^  • 
commodation '  of  the  inhabitants.  I  obferted,  that  in  the 
1649  there  was  a  disjiinftioa  and  an  annexatbtt  cff-confi* 
derable  portions  of  this  pariOi  to  Ktlfyth  and  Baldernocit')  it 
appears,  howevet,  by  a  difpute  whieh  lately  t6ok  place  be^ 
twixt  the  miniftcr  of  Baldcmock  and  the  heritors  of  Camp* 
fic,  anent  the  atgmentation  of  ilie  ftipetid  of  BiU^rnock^ 
that  the  part  disj6ined  was  only  Annexed  quwi  faclra ;  and 
the  probability  isi  that  the  propofrtion  aniiexed  to  Ktliyth  is 
in  the  fame  predicament.  Ail  the  lahds  in  the  parifh  are 
now  vahied^  aiid  the  free  utipropriated  tithe  is  belter,  thail 
600 1.  Sterling  annually,  as  the  fand  from  lAiA  the  €lri^4 
men  may  have  future  augmentations.  MrCampbdlofShiw* 
field  is  titular,  in  virtue  of  his  being  the  pdrchafer  of  the 
eftate  of  Kilfjth,  from  the  creditors  of  the  York-biillding 
There  is  an  opinion  entertained  by  fome  people,  that  if  an 
aft  of  Parliament  does  not  tenJer  all  minifters  (lipendianC^i 
tl>at  on  account  of  certain  peculiar  circumftanccSj'the  mlni^ 
ftcr  of  Campfie  is  (till  titular  of  the  tithes. 

The  duties  of  this  parifti  confiil  in  vifiting  and  regularly 
examining  the  congregation  once  in  the  ycarj  befides  pi^fii^h-* 
ing  three  difcdutfcs  e^xry  furrday,  from  the  icth  of  April  tllf 

tli« 


ofCampJu.  369 

die  loth  of  Odober  ;  and  in  winter,  two  dUcourfes,  one  of 
them  always  a  ledure  :  The  facrament  18  given  once  in  the 
year  \  three  difcourfes  on  the  faft  day,  two  on  Sunday,  two 
on  Mondiy :  The  a£tion  fermon  in  the  church,  and  the  eren- 
ing  fermon  \  beCdes  preaching  at  the  tent.  People  haire 
complained,  tbat  the  tent  preaching  was  prejudicial :  I  am. 
inclined  to  believe  the  contrary  from  experience :  i^.  On  ac- 
count of  its  bringing  a  confiderable  coUedion  for  the  poor  $ 
and,  idljy  it  accuftoms  a  number  of  people  to  meet  together 
in  a  decent,  cheerful,  and  refpe£table  manner.^I  have  never 
heard  either  the  fober,  or  the  ferious,  or  the  induftrious,  com- 
plain  \  and  confidering  the  fimplicity  of  our  fenrice,  in  mofl: 
other  refpefls;  I  have  all  along  been  accuftomed  to  confider 
thefe  public  religious  meetings  as  beneficial  to  the  manners 
of  the  country.  The  eclefiaftical  difcipUne  of  this  parifli  is 
ftill  kept  up.  As  for  difcipUne  againil  fornicators,  two  days 
d(Hng  public  penance  in  the  church,  are  required,  befides  a 
fine  of  a  crown,  for  each  guilty  perfon,  to  the  poor.  There 
has  been  an  opinion  entertained^  that  this  public  penance  has 
been  produ£live  df  very  bad  efie^b  in  fociety ;  fo  far  has  an 
idea  gone  forth  of  this  fort,  that^  for  this  reafon,  fome  writer^ 
have  pretended  to  fay,  that  fo  long  as  doing  public  penance 
was  permitted,  no  perfon  fliould  be  put  to  death  for  child 
murder  :  1  am  inclined  to  believe,  that  it  would  be  mudt 
more  the  intereft  of  the  community,  in  a  political  light,  that 
the  laws  of  difcipUne  ihouM  be  more  rigidly  adhered  to  \  M 
if  once  the  vulgar  of  any  country,  confider  ihcontinency  as  a 
venial  fault,  they  are  almoft  ready  for  the  cOmmi(&on  oi  any 
crime ;  and  as  I  can  eafily  fee,  that  the  (hame  ctf  doing  penance 
operates  to  deter  others  ;  in  this  pomt  of  view,  it  is  to  b^ 
confidered  as  anfwering  the  ends  of  edification.  Pid>li(i 
l>aptifm  is  regularly  adhered  to;  parents  requiring  pri- 
VoL.  XV.  .  3  B 


3*o  Sati/lical  Account 

vate  baptifm  for  their  children^  pay  half  a  crown  to  the 
poor* 

Stf/5oc/j.-— There  arc  in  this  parlfl}  tDi'O  efiabliflied  fchoolf. 
The  pariQi  fchool  was  ereScd  in  the  year*i66i,  according 
to  the  form  therein  required^  under  the  patronage  of  John> 
i\rchbi(liop  of  Glafgow  ;  the  legal  falary  wa«  fixed  at  too 
pounds  Scots  :  It  is  remarkable,  that  ixx  the  deed  of  ereAion, 
there  is  ai>  eipre£>  claufe^  declaring,  that  the  fchoolqiaflcr,  in 
all  time  coming,  ihouM  teaeh  Latin ;  and  that  the  fchool  (fiould 
be  condantly  lield  at' the  Clacban  of  Campfie.  There  ^  wa$ 
another  (cItooI  cre£led  in  I7?7f  on  a  mprtification  of  iifty 
pounds,  left  by  one  Young,  a  pedlar  in  GlocederQiire  :  It 
is  fituated  at  the  diflance  pf  four  Engliih  miles  from  the  o- 
ther<  The  heritors  of  Campfie  haye,  fomehow  or  other,  per- 
mitted the  half  of  the  falary  belonging  to  the  parifli  fchool- 
znafter,  to  be  added  to  the  furtfier  cinolHmeQt  of  this  fchool, 
of  the  eaftem  diftri£l.— It  is  to  be  expe£ledj  in  a  little  time» 
tW  miilake  will  be  re£lified^  and  that  the  parifli  fchoolmaf- 
tcr  will  receive  his  legal  falary ;  and,  at  (he  fame  time,  the 
other  fchoobnafter  be  fuificiently  provided.  Besides  thefe 
two  fchook,  there  was  a  third  erefted  lately  at  the  new  yil- 
liage  of  Caipplic;,  for  the  benefit  of  the  inhabitants  ;  t^e  t^^cV 
cr  has  no  falary  :  at  the  fame  time,  they  have  always  fcpnd 
teachers  ready  to  accept  the  office  upop  the  bare  emodupent 
of  the  fchod  wages ;  In  the  fumtner  f^^ibn^  in  tl^e  Sputh 
<iu;^rter  of  the  parifh,  there  is  commonly  a  fipurth .  (chool 
taught  by  fome  young  man  from  Gla^ow,  wlio  firnls  it  con« 
yenicnt  to  keep  fchool  during  the  .ya(;?t|on  of  the  College;  fo 
that  at,  an  average^  there  are  fomewhat  above  ^pq  children 
educated  annuaiiy  in  the  parifh :  There  jare  .at  leaft  one 
fifth  pa];t  at  fchool  of  ^ofe  who  are  bjelow  twelve  years  of 
age.    The  inhabitants  of  this  parifh  are,  upon  the  whole, 

ratliei 


o/Campfie.  37  ^ 

rather  difpofed  to  give  their  children  a  good  education  ;  at  the 
time  this  account  was  wrote,  there  were  thirteen  Latin  fcho* 
lars  at  the  two  parifli  fchools  •,  the  other  children  are  certain 
of  being  taught  to  read  Englifh,  write  and  caft  accompts  ; 
the  common  ftyle  of  education  is  carried  on  in  the  follow- 
ing manner :  They  learn  the  founds  of  the  letters,  and  the  u- 
nion  of  fyllablcs,  in  the  fmall  fpelling  book  ;  then  ihey  receive 
the  large  fpelling  book  ;  dien  they  get  the  New  Teftament, 
arid  the  Bible,  in  which  they  commonly  read  fomc  time ;  and 
then  the  Colleftion  :  they  geta  qacftion  in  the  common  cate- 
chifm  to  repeat  every  morning:  there  h  a  public  repetition 
on  Saturday,  with  a  pfalm  on  Monday.  '1  here  being  feve- 
lal  public  works  in  the  pari(h,  the  night-fchool  is  confidcra- 
ble,  being  wholly 'made  up  of  grown  pcrfons,  who  attend  for 
tbepurpofes  of  writing  and  arithmetic,  &c.  The  wages  are 
fixed  for  tlie  parifli  fchools  by  the  heritors  and  feflion,  at  i  s. 
6d.  per  quaiter  for  children,  half-a-crown  for  \vtiting  and  a- 
rithmetic,  and  3s.  for  Latin  per  quartet,  befidcs  what  they 
Toluntarily  give  as  a  new-yeai's-gift.  It  is  evident  that  tKe 
encouragement  is  too  Ibw  ;  perhaps  it  ^ould  be  the  interelfc 
of  Government  that  they  Qiould  have  fome  little  addition  of 
falary  given  to  them  \  let  the  wages  remain  as  low  as  pof-* 
Cble,  to  uiduce  the  people  to  fend  their  children  to  fchool  i 
from  this  circumftance  of  the  want  of  encouragement,  and 
likewife  from  being  in  the  neighbourhood  of  an  Univerfityi 
from  whence  ftudents  come  to  be  our  fchoolmai^ers,  who 
have  farther  profpeAs,  th^re  have  been  no  lefs  than  tliirteei^ 
fchool-mafters  in  the  parifli  fchool,  fince  the  year  i759« 
Upon  the  whole,  I  would  ftyle  the  common  education  of 
iScbtlahd,  partly  religious,  and  partly  pliiiofophical ;  It  would 
not*  be  our  intereft  to  fee  it  violently  broken  in  upon  \  it  is 
'  this  fbode  of  education  which  givesihe  Scotch  nation  fuch  an 
attachhient  to  fpeculation  in  religion ;  it  is  only  following 
aut  what  they  have  been  taught  in  the  early  period  of  their 

3  B  2  livcs^ 


37^  Statijikal  Accmni 

lives.    There  are  in  this  parifli,  three  ftiidenU  of  dmnity^ 
one  preacher  and  two  gown  ftudents  *• 

Charafter^  Morals^  Gcniusy  l^c. — ^The  inhabitants  of  this 
diftri£t|  during  the  laft,  and  early  part  of  this  century,  were 
fomewhat  conf^cuous  for  drinking  and  fighting  with  their 
neighbours  :  If  any  perfon  in  this  pariih,  however  mean  his 
(ituation,  had  received  an  injury  or  affront  from  an  inhabi- 
tant of  another  pariih ;  his  neighbours  confidercd  themfelves 
bound  to  fupport  him,  and  to  avenge  his  quarrel :  fuch  con- 
duftj  however,  feems  to  have  proceeded  more  from  pride 

and 

*  The  peculiar  ctiftoms  of  thw  pirifli  are  fiid  wearing  oat.  It  was  cm . 
ternary,  till  within  thefe  few  years,  when  any  head  of  a  family  died,  to  invite 
the  whole  pariih  :  They  were  ierred  on  boards  in  the  barn,  where  a  prayer 
was  pronounced  before  and  after  the  fervice,  which  duty  was  moft  religiouf- 
ly  obfertcd  :  The  entertainment  confifted  of  the  following  parts :  Firji^  there 
there  was  a  drink  of  ale,  then  a  dram,  then  a  piece  of  {bort  bread,  then  ano. 
thcr  dram  of  fome  other  fpccies  of  liquor,  then  a  piece  of  currant-bread,  and 
a  third  dram,  either  of  fpirits  or  wine,  which  was  followed  by  loares  and 
dieefe,  pipes  and  tobacco  :  This  was  the  old  funeral  entettaioment  in  the  pa- 
rifh  of  Gampfie,  and  was  ftiled  their  fervice ;  and  fometimes  this  was  repeated, 
and  was  then  ftiled  a  double  ferTice ;  and  it  was  fure  of  being  repeated  at  the 
dredgy.  A  funeral  coft,  at  leaft,  a  hundted  pounds  Scots,  to  any  family  who 
ioHowrd  the  old  conrfe.  The  moft  adlive  young  man  was  pointed  out  to  the 
office  of  ferTcr ;  and  in  thofe  days,  while  the  nunners  were  fimple,  and  at  the 
fame  tune  feriout,  it  was  no  iinall  honour  to  be  a  ferrer  at  a  buriaL  How- 
ever diftant  any  part  of  the  pariih  was  from  the  place  of  interment,  it  was 
cuftomary  for  the  attendants  to  carry  the  corpfe  on  hand  fpokes.  The  mode 
of  invitstion  to  the  entertainment,  was  by  feme  fppcial  mefKcnger ;  which 
was  ftiled  bidding  to  the  burial,  the  form  being  nearly  in  the  following 
words :  You  are  defired  to  come  to  fnch  a  one's  burial  to  morrow,  agatnft  ten 
hours.  No  perfon  was  invited  by  letter  :  and  though  invited  againft  ten  of 
the  clock,  the  corpfe  was  never  interred  till  the  evening ;  time  not  being  fo 
much  valued  in  thofe  days.  It  was  cuftomary  for  them  to  have  at  leafl  t«ro 
lyke-wakcs  (the  corpfe  being  k^two  nights  before  the  interment)  where  the 
young  neighbour;  watched  the  corpfe,  being  merry  or  forrowful,  according  to 
the  fitaatigD  or  rank  of  the  dcccafed. 


^f  Campjie.  373 

and  ruftic  gallantry)  than  froit  %  fettled  maleTolence  of  dlf- 
poGtion.  The  more  improved  nlannersy  and  a  more  general 
intercourfe  with  focietyi  have»  in  a  great  meafurey  done  away 
this  turbulent  difporuion  \  dill  the  natives  of  Campfie  may  be 
conGdered  as  a  keen  tempered  people^  by  no  means  averfe  to 
expofe  themfelves  to  bodily  danger  at  any  time  :  the  young 
people  have  no  objection  to  a  military  life,  being  fond  of  no*- 
velty  and  adventure  s  during  the  prefent  war,  no  lefs  than  28 
have  enlifted  in  the  land  fervicei  and  feven  have  entered  on 
board  the  navy ;  thefe  remarks  chiefly  apply  to  the  lower  clafs 
of  people.  The  gentry,  for  at  lead  thefe  40  years,  have  been 
remarkable  for  their  fobriety,  decent  behaviour,  and  oeconoi- 
mical  habits ;  of  courfe,  they  are  all  in  profperous  circum- 
ftances  ;  rigid  ceconomy  was  not  the  virtue  of  their  fofefa-^ 
thers*. 

Eminent 

*  About  ten  years  ago,  the  fudden  tranfition  from  ftrid  to  loofe  nuDDera 
was  felt  very  remarkaUj  in  this  parifh ;  a  number  of  wandering  people,  from 
different  parts  of  the  kingdom,  having  fettled  amongfl  us  at  the  different 
printfields  :-~peopIe,  to  (ay  no  worfe  of  them,  not  over  attentive  to  regulari- 
ty of  condvd ;  thefe  perfons,  however,  have  now  for  the  moft  part,  left  the 
phce.  The  more  fober  and  induftrious  have  been  retained ;  the  youog er  pare 
•f  the  workmen  being  now  natives  of  the  pariih«  and  more  immediately  un* 
der  the  eye  of  their  parents  and  relatione— I  confider  therefore  the  morals  o£ 
the  manufaduting  part  of  the  community,  as  more  regular  than  they  were  e* 
wn  five  years  ago. 

The  people  of  Campflc  cannct  be  faid  to  be  of  a  litigiout  dl^poCtion  :  It  is 
true,  from  their  appareqt  keenncfs,  yon  would  be  apt  to  ioMgfne  that  thef 
ihouldbe  conftantly  engaged  in  lawfuits.— The  reverfe  is  the  cafe :  The  high, 
er  bom  and  better  informed  clafs  of  people,  (ludioufly  avoid  litigation.  A. 
mongft  the  other  defcription  of  the  inhabitants,  much  threatening,  and  a  few 
hafty  words,  generally  terminate  the  difpute.  Neither  writer  nor  meffenger 
at  arms  rcfide  in  the  parifli ;  at  the  fismethne,  conGdering  the  number  of  the 
tranfadions  which  muft  inevitably  take  place  in  a  rich  and  populous  diibid, 
(even  though  no  law-fuit  intervenes)  a  great  deal  of  bofinels  is  ai!brded  to 
both  profeilions.    Although  1  could  not  take  upon  mc  to  fay  that  the  inhabi. 

tants 


374  StatlfUcal  Account 

EminefU  ilf>«.-— This  pari(h  has  produced  no  eminent  men 
whofe  hiftory  hath  arrefted  the  attention  of  world,  except 
Mr  Bell  of  Antermony,  a  gentleman  well  known  to  the  learn- 
cd|  on  account  of  his  travels  to  China  and  Perfia  ;  this  gen- 
tleman poflefled  an  uncommon  faculty  for  fpeaking  the  mo- 
dem languages  of  Europe  \  nor  was  he  lefs  remarkable  for  an 
amiable  fimplicity  of  manners,  in  private  life,  and  the  mod 
facred  regard  to  truth  in  all  he  faid  or  did.  He  was  a  na- 
tive of  Campfie,  having  inherited  a  confiderable  paternal  e- 
^ate  :  he  died  in  the  1780,  at  the  venerable  age  of  89. 

Prices  of  Provifions  and  X./iJ0ur.-— ProviPions  of  every  fort 
in  this  pari(h  are  regulated  by  the.  Glafgow  prices  ;  the 
common  people  have  fuch  an  inveterate  cuftom  of  carrying 
their  eggs>  poultry,  and  butter,  to  town,  that  we  could  of- 
ten buy  thefe  articles  cheaper  at  the  crofs  of  Glafgow  than 
in  the  parifh  of  Campfie.  I  have  fubjoined  a  uble  of  the 
f  riQCs  of  provifions  and  of  labour,  for  the  year  1 794* 

L.     8.    d. 

Pucks  per  panr^  •«  -.030 

Hens  per  pair  -  -  -  034 

]fggs  per  dozen,  for  four  months  8d  \  for  eight 

months,  6d.  «  -  006 

Chickens  per  pair,  ready  for  the  fpit  •  014 

Butter  per  Trcm  lb.  pd ;  during  two.  months  i  id.    o    o    9 
Butter-milk  per  Scotch  pint  -         ^   "^  00^ 

Potatocsper  peck,  corn,  mcafurc  -         -        o    o  4I 

Bed 

s 

t^ts  of  this  diftri6t  are  food  of  literal 7  porfuits,  it  wvtild  be'^iag  them 
;»iojufiicc,^  i  did  not  (ay  they  were  people  of  capacity  and  {cniut ;  at  the 
ii^me  tioifv  the  tendency  of  Ihcir  mind  ii  rather  towards  an  a^Te  tho^  a  coa. 
lein^tiv^  liff. 


bfCam$fie.  375 

^  L>     s.     d. 

Bed  beef  per  lb.  Tron  weight,  at  an  average  006 

Ditto  ditto  in  the  fpring  months  from  7d.  to  8d* 

Lamb  per  quarter,  at  an  average  in  the  fcafon  018 

Fed  veal  no  fixed  price 

Oat  meal,  per  peck,  at  an  averiage  thefe  two  years    012^ 

Barley  at  an  average  per  boll        -        -        -         o  18     <f 

Straw  per  thtavq  for  thatching        -  -  036 

Cheefe  of  (kimmed  milk  per  ftone  -  646 

Tarry- wool  per  ftone  •  -  -         070 

White-wool  per  ftone  -         *      -  o  10    • 

Milk  new  milked  per  mutchkin  ^,  and  fkimmed,  at  \  per 

choppin. 

It  will  appear^  that  living  of  all  forts  is  equally  dear  with 

any  of  the  great  towns  in  the  kingdom ;  and,  I  believe,  from 

the  following  table,  that  labour  will  appear  equally  high. 

L.     s.    d* 

Wages  of  a  man  fervant  per  half  year  with  boards 

&c.  5    o'   o 

Wages  of  a  woman  per  half  year,  including  ditto,     210    • 

A  common  labourer  per  day,  i  s.  4d.  in  fummer ; 

in  winter  is.  ad. — average,  013 

Taylor,  befides  bpard  per  day»  -  .  o     o  if 

Servants  at  the  printficlds  per  day,  during  the  whok 

year  -  7  -  -  o     i    .0 

Miln-wrighr,  -  -  .         -  018 

Mafon,  per  day,  -  01   i> 

Horfe  and  cart  per  day,  «  ^    i\f 

Digging  ground,  building  dykes  and  ditching,  is  done 

at  fo  much  per  piece,  equally  high  with  any  part 

of  Scotland^ 

Women  fpin  wool  per  day,  with  yifkuals,  •    0.4 

Linen  yam  fpun  out  of  the  houfe  per  fpindle,  q     t    6 

^  Si  gluing  potatoes  per  peck,  corn  meafure^  •    o  oi 

Bark 


37 5  Statijiical  Account 

L.    &•    d. 

Bark' peelers  per  day,  -  o    o  lo 

The  hire  of  women  per  day  \%  regulated  by  the  pri- 
ces given  at  the  printfield. 

Appearance  ff  the  InhahiianU^  and  Difiafa.^'-^Vht  inhdbi* 
taints  of  this  diftri£l  may  be  confidered  as  uncommonly 
healthy  ;  they  are  a  clean  limbed,  well  made  people,  rather 
lean  of  flefli,  in  general  from  five  feet  feven  to  fix  feet  high  ; 
one  half  of  the  young  men  being  above  five  feet  ten,  fcarcely 
any  abo««e  fix  feet :  There  are  a  few  who  live  to  a  very  great 
age ;  although,  in  general,  the  heads  of  families  live  to  the  age 
of  feventy ;  which  circumftance  would  induce  me  to  ftyle 
the  place  more  healdiy  than  if  we  found  extraordinary  in- 
ftances  of  lot^evity  t  there  is  one  circumftance  to  be  taken 
notice  of,  which  is,  the  uncommon  number  of  accidental 
deaths,  being  fomewhat  more  than  two  per  annum  ;  during 
the  laft  tenyevs  there  were  no  fewer  than  twenty  three,  f 

A  Table,  pointing  out  the  manner  of  their  deaths. 

t  Killed  in  a  coal  pit  by  the  cboak  dsmp,  July  1^%Z*           •           •  3 

Killed  in  a  coal  pit  February  1785,  by  damp,            ...  5 

Xilled  by  falling  down  a  coal  pit,             .            .              .             .  ^ 
Killed  by  the  firoke  of  a  horfe,           «...            .1 

Killedby  tlie  machinery  ef  the  difimmniiUMii              .              •  $ 

Killed  in  a  quary,              .              •              «...  I 

Killed  by  ^  falling  of  a  tree  when  cut  down,           .           .           •  i 

Killed  by  a  the  fall  from  a  bridge,           .           ,      '     .             .  x 

Killed  by  the  ftorma  when  travelling  through  Campfie  Fellf,           .  % 

Drowned,               .                                               ,               .        ,  3 

Of  courfe^  one  dghteenth  part,  of  tlie  deaths  in  this  parifh 
may  be  ftyled  accidental ;  and  if  we  were  to  carry  back  the 
calcolatfon  for  thirty  yeaurs»  there  would  be  found  the  fame 
proportion 

.  ^  ^i^itiHi 


ofCampJie.  377 

AmlquHies. — ^There  are  few  in  thb  cliftri£l  which  merit 
defcription,  except  two  Caledonian  Forts ;  and  even  thefc 
fcarcely  arreft  the  attention,  unlefs  fo  far  as  they  prove  that 
the  Caledonians  chofe  to  occupy  places  of  ftrength  direftly 
oppofitc  to  the  Roman  wall,  no  doubt  with  the  defign  of 
watching  the  motions  of  the  legionaries. — ^fhefe  mounds 
are  perfe£lly  circular,  with  regular  fofles ;  the  one  is  ffyled 
the  Meiclie  Relve^  in  the  language  of  the  countty,  and  is  a- 
bout  a  hundred  yards  in  diameter :  The  other  is  ftyled  the 
Maiden  Cajlle^  about  twenty  yards  diameter  :  They  are  both 
fituated  at  the  foot  of  the  Campfie  Fells,  to  which  the  na- 
tives could  eafily  fly,  if  attacked ;  and  ly  due  Nortli,  at  the 
diftance  of  two  computed  miles,  from  the  peel  of  Rirkintil- 
)och|.faid  be  be  one  of  the  chief  Roman  ftations  on  the  wall, 

There  have  been  feveral  urns  found  in  the  parifli,  contain- 
ing afhes  and  burnt  bones ;  the  urns  were  about  five  inches 
in  depth,  and  fifteen  in  diameter ;  made  of  courfe  clay,  ap- 
'parently  balked  in  the  fun  •,  a  fpccies  of  freize  work  encircles 
the  lower  edge  5  they  have  been  found  in  cairns,  generally 
placed  between  two  flags, 

It  may  not  be  improper  to  mention,  that  Campfie,  (before 
the  disjun£iion  and  annexation  took  place,)  extended  for 
eleven  Englifh  miles  along  the  Roman  wall ;  and,  of  courfe, 
many  Ikirmifhes  muft  have  taken  place  in  this  {Irath,  betwixt 
the  legionaries  and  Caledoniaqs :  after  a  particular  exami- 
nation of  the  country,  1  have  not  the  fmalleft  doubt,  but  that 
the  fecurity  of  this  Roman  barrier,  depended  mpre  upon  the 
almoft  impafiable  fwamp  formed  on  the  North  fide,  than  on 
the  ftrength  of  its  forts  ;  even  at  this  day,  it  would  be  no  dif- 
ficult matter  to  lay  the  whole  valley  under  water  from  Bon- 
ny,  to  BalmuUy  bridge,  where  Graham's  dyke  crofles  the  ri- 
ver Kelvin :  And  the  names  of  the  different  farms  in  Camp- 

YoL-XV.  ^        3C  fie, 


37?  Statijtieal  Account 

fie,  fuch  as  Inchwood,  Inchterfi  Inchbrcak,  and  Inchbelt]r» 
evidently  point  out,  that  they  were  once  furroundcd  by  wa- 
ter :  Inch,  it  is  faid  in  the  Gaelic  language,  fignifies  an 
ifland  :  thus,  the  Caledonians  would  find  it  impoflible  to  ap- 
proach the  wall  on  foot ;  and  it  is  prefumcd,  that  themorafs  was 
not  fufficiently  covered  by  water,  to  permit  them  to  crofb  it  in 
boats.  Many  people,  unaquainted  with  the  fituation  of  the 
country,  have  exprefled  furprife  that  the  Caledonians  were  fo 
ignorant  of  tlie  art  of  war,  as  to  be  unable,  for  fo  long  a  time, 
to  penetriate  through  Antoninus's  wall  •,  the  truth  is,  it  could 
not  be  attacked,  but  at  the  extremities.  •  The  natives  found 
it  eafier  to  pafs  over  the  Friths  of  Forth  and  Clyde,  than  to 
get  acrofe  the  almoft  impaffable  fwamp  oppofite  to  Graham's 
Dyke ;  fo  that  when  any  incurfions  were  made  into  the  Ro- 
man province,  it  is  fcarcely  poffible  to  conceive  that  thefe  in- 
roads could  take  place  from  that  quarter  which  is  now  known 
by  the  name  of  the  parilh  of  Campfie ;  from  the  top  of  the 
Barrhill,  where  there  was  a  conGdcrable  Roman  Fort,  any 
perfon  at  this  day,  taking  a  view  of  the  country,  will  concur 
in  the  above  opinion^ 

About  five  years  ago,  a  confiderable  quantity  of  filver  coin, 
chiefly  of  the  coinage  of  Elizabeth,  James  and  Charles  I,  mixt 
with  a  number  of  Danifti  and  Dutch  pieces,  were  found  by 
one  of  the  portioners  of  the  lands  of  Birdfton,  when  digging 
a  ditch  through  a  morafs  ;  they  were  fuppofed  to  have  been 
hid  in  the  morafs,  about  the  time  when  the  battle  of  Kilfyth 
was  fought  betwixt  Montrofe  and  the  Covenanters  *,  the  ma- 
rauding parties  of  Montrofe*s  army  having  ftretched  as  far , 
Weft  as  Birdfton,  the  inhabitants,  flying  from  their  depreda- 
tions, muft  have  hid  this  treafure,  and  hayp  forgpt  where  it 
was  dcpofited,  when  they  came  afterwards  to  fearch  for  it, 

MifcellaneQus 


ofCampfie.  3^5 

Miscdldneous  Observations, — It  may  be  here  proper  to  mcn- 
Vion  a  remarkable  faft,  which  marks  very  much  the  turbu- 
lence of  the  tirnesy  and  the  impotence  o£  the  laws»  fo  late  as 
they  ear  1 744.  The  father  of  the  prefent  minifter  of  Camp- 
fie  paid  hiach  mail  to  M^Grigor  of  Glcngyle,  in  order  to 
prevent  deprcdntion3  being  made  upon  his  property  ;  M*Gri- 
gor  engaging,  upon  his  part,  to  fccurc  him  from  fufFering 
by  any  hardjhip,  as  it  was  termed ;  and  he  faithfully  fulfilled 
the  contraft  ;  engaging  to  pay  for  all  flicep  which  were  car- 
Wed  away,  if  abone  the  number  feven,  which  he  ftyled  lifting  ; 
if  below  feven,  he  only  confidered  it  as  a  piking ;  and  for  the 
honour  of  this  warden  of  the  Highland  march,  Mr  John  Lap- 
flie  having  got  fifteen  fheep  lifted  in  the  commencement  of 
the  year  1 745,  Mr  M^Grigor  aftually  had  taken  meafures  to 
have  their  value  reftored,  when  the  rebellion  broke  out,  and 
put  an  end  to  any  further  payment  of  black  mail,  and  like* 
wife  to  Mr  M*Grigor's  fclf  created  wardenftiip  of  the  High- 
land borders. 

The  laft  inftance  in  this  diftrift  of  a  Baron  of  Regality 
cxercifing  the  jurifdiftion  of  pit  and  gallows  over  his  depen- 
dents, is  faid  to  have  been  eftercifea  by  the  Vifcount  of  Kil- 
fyth,  in  the  1793  ;  having  condemned  one  of  his  own  fervants 
to  be  hanged  for  ftealing  filver  plate  from  the  houfe  of  Ban- 
cloich ':  the  fellow  was  executed  upon  a  hill  on  the  barony 
of  Bancloich,  ftyled  the  Gallow-hill  j  a  part  of  the  gibbet 
tvas  lately  found  lying  in  a  fwamp,  adjoining  to  this  field  of 
blood. 

Lunardi,  an  Italian,  the  celebrated  aeronaut,  alighted  from 
one  of  his  aerial  excurfions  in  Campfie  ;  having  afcended  in 
a  balloon  from  St  Andrew's  church  yard,  in  the  city  of  Glaf- 
gow,  upon  the  5th  of  December  1 785.  At  two  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon,  he  defcended  in  this  paiifti,  at  twenty  minutes 

3C2  pad 


380  Statijlical  Account 

paft  two,  die  di (lance  being  about  ten  miles  ;  the  fpot  whcrf 
the  baloon  firfl  touched  the  ground  was  upon  the  property 
of  Sir  Archibald  Edmonfton,  Baronet,  of  Duntreath,  on  the 
farm  of'Eafter  Muckcroft- 

Although  this  parilh  has  been  always  confpicuous  for  its 
attachment  to  its  fovcreign  ;  whether  of  the  Stewart  fami- 
ly, as  in  the  Lft  eentury,  or  of  the  Hanoverian  family,  as  in 
the  prefent  century  \  having  raifed  a  militia  both  in  the  ycarft 
1715  and  i745> — ftiU  I  cannot  help  taking  notice,  in  this 
Statiftical  Account  of  a  remarkable  fa£l  relative  to  the  con- 
du£l  of  fome  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  diftri£l:,  which  one 
would  almoft  fay  cohtradifts  the  opinion  of  their  loyalty. 
In  the  midft  of  the  mofl  profound  peace,  and,  I  may  fay,  of* 
the  moft  unparalelled  profperity  ;  all  at  once,  as  it  were  by 
inchantment,  the  operative  part  of  this  community  conceiv- 
ed themfelved  to  be  groaning  under  the  moft  abje£l  ffavery. 
They  immediately  aflbciated*  themfelves  under  the  appella- 
tion of  the  Friends  of  tlie  People  :  Tlie  firft  foclcty  was  con- 
ftituted  at  the  Milton  of  Campfie,  I  think,  upon  Thurfday 
the  8th  of  November  1792  \  the  fecond  was  conftituted  at 
Kew  Birbiilon  of  Campfie,  the  Saturday  thereafter :  Two  o- 
ther  focieties  were  attempted  to  be  fwrned  in  other  parts  of 
the  pariih :  I  believe,  however,  they  did  not  fucceed :  The 
two  former  met  often,  kept  books,  fiibfcribed  fmall  fums  of 
money  for  purchafmg  political  pamphlets,  and  fent  delegates 
to  the  different  Conventions  met  at  Edinburgh.  Concerning 
the  Impropriety  of  fuch  focieties,  the  laws  of  our  country  hath 
already  given  ample  teftimony.  It  may  not  be  improper, 
however,  in  the  Statiftical  Account  of  this  parifli,  to  give 
fome  defcription  of  the  people  which  compofed  tliefe  focie- 
ties: They  were  chiefly  formed  from  amongft  the  journey- 
men and  apprentices  at  the  different  print-fields,  and  a  few 
operative  weavers  in  the  village  of  New  Birbifton,  moftly 

lad^ 


©/  Campfie.  38 1 

lads  front  17  years  of  age  to  30 :  There  might  be  amongft. 
them  a  few  half  educated  people,  whofe  vanity  confified  in, 
raifing  the  aftoniftiment  of  their  more  ignorant  companions^ 
by  a  detail  of  political  grievances,  which  had  never  entered 
into  the  hearts  of  the  other  to  conceive  ;  various  caufes  corO- 
perated  to  render  Campfie  a  proper  hot-bed  for  fuch  folly. 

In  the  firjt  place,  a  conflderable  degree  of  licenttoufntfs 
had  begun  to  prevail  in  this  diftriA,  owing  to  high  wages  i 
and  as  the  influx  of  fuch  weahh  had  been  rather  fuddeH,  due 
fubordination  of  rank  was  almoft  totally  forgot.  In  the 
fecond  place,  a  Relief  mectirig,  about  10  years  ago,  being  e- 
re£ted  in  this  parifli,  which  had  drawn  off  a  confiderable  num- 
ber of  people  from  the  £{labli(hment,  and  rendered  theni,  in 
£bme  nieafure,  hofiile  to  the  the  powers  that  be^  and  I  am 
doubtful  but  the  fpirit  of  innovation  was  encouraged  in  a 
certain  degree,  by  their  public  teachers,  with  a  view  to- in- 
creafe  the  adherents  to  their  own  tabernacle.  In  tlie  third 
place,  Mr  Muir,  advocate,  the  unfortunate  gentleman  who 
was  tried  for  fedition,  having  fonie  connexions,  and  being 
well  acquainted  in  the  place,  was  naturally  induced  to  try  the 
pOvfrtx  of  his  eloquence  upon  the  inhabitants  ;  and  he  fucceed- 
ed.  If  to  thefe  caufes  we  add  the  particular  circumftance  of 
the  character  of  young  people  at  the  different  printfields  ; 
TiitiXy  who  have  abundance  of  time  in  the  evenings  to  cabal 
together;  men,  too,  from  their  profeffron,Vatber  given  to  wan- 
^erilTg,  and  fond  of  novelty,  and  fomewhat  naturally  addic« 
ted  to  form  affociations  againft  their  mafter's  authority ;  we: 
will  not  be  furprifed  that  Campfie  fliould  be  fo  often  men- 
lioned  as  friendly  to  thefe  Jacobin  focieties. 

Neverthelefs,  I  am  entitled  to  fay,  that  the  farxhers  and  the 
inhabitants  in  general^  (there  being  no  fewer  than  252/ 
people  in  the  parifh,)  were  remarkable  for  their  loyalty,  and 
attatchment  to  Government :  They  very  early  formed  thcm- 

fclvc9 


3  S  2  ^     Statijlkal  Account 

felvcs  into  conftitutional  focicties,  for  the  defence  of  Govehii 
ment|  and  publilhed  refolutions.  Notwithftanding  all  the 
buftle  which  was  occafioncd  by  their  fbliy,  the  different  Ja- 
cobin foceities  in  this  parifli  altogether,  never  contained  a^* 
bovc  fixty  perfons. 

Relative  Situation  of  the  Parijh. — If  wc  compare  the  fitua- 
tion  of  the  inhabitants  this  year  with  certain  periods,  either 
in  the  beginning  or  middle  of  this  century,  it  will  appear  re- 
markably improved.  \  have  fubjoined  a  table,  containing  the 
mod  remarkable  fa£ls,  relative  to  parifh  deconomicSy  taken 
^t  four  different  periods :  The  two  firfi  I  cannot  fpeak  of 
from  my  own  obfetvations  ^  at  the  fame  time,  froxiil  .the  op« 
portunities  I  have  had  of  being  made  acquainted  with  them, 
ds  a  native  of  this  parifli,  1  can  affirm  that  die  fa£ts  are  fair-^ 

ly  dated. 

Year  17 14. 

7^,  Only  three  cows  faid  to  have  been  killed  for  winter 
beef  in  the  whole  parifh,  the  gentry  excepted. 

li^  The  wages  of  a  manfervant  for  half-a-y^ar,  9L  Stots  \ 
fome  of  the  bed  get  lal*  Scots  \  a  woman-fervant,  61.  Scots 
for  half-a-year. 

3(/,  No  wheaten  bread  eat  in  the  parifh. 

4/^,  No  inclofure  whatever  in  the  parifh,  except  about  gen« 
tlemen's  gardens  or  woods. 

5/^,  No  cart  or  chaife ;  the  gentry  rodeto  church  on  horfe^ 
back. 

6/j&,  All  broad  ploughs,  the  horfes  yoked  abiread. 

"Ith^  The  men  wore  bonnets  and  plaids,  and  plaiding  waid* 
coats,  and  plaiding  hofe;  no  Englifh  cloth  whalteverwas 
worn  by  the  inhabitants,  the  gentry  excepted* 

Year 


ofCan^Jie.  383 

Tear  1744. 

ijly  The  better  fort  of  farmers  joined  and  got  a  cow  for  a 
winter  nfiart,  betwixt  two  of  them ;  the  price  then  being 
thirty  five  or  forty  (hillings  only  fpr  a  fat  cow- 

2^/>  No  cliaife  was  as  yet  kept  in  the  p^rifh  \  fome  few  cartSy 
but  thefe  were  only  ufed  to  carry  out  manure  in  the  fpring ; 
the  wheels  were  not  (hod  with  iron  j  and  the  moment  the 
manure  Mras  carried  out,  thefe  timber  wheels  were  taken 
down  till  next  fpring. 

3  J,  Perhaps  about  five  or  fix  inclofures  were  made  in  the 
parifli  2  it  muft  be  owned,  though  few,  they  were  moft  fub* 
ftantially  built ;  they  remain  entire  and  firm  to  this  day, 

4/A,  No  wheaten  bread,  no  Englifli  cloth  ufed  by  the  in- 
habitants. 

5M,  A  man  fervant*s  wages  were  from  thirty  (hillings  to 
two  pounds  per  half  year ;  a  woman's,  from  nine  pound  Scots 
to  one  pound  Sterling ;  fcrvants  in  this  period  uniformly  got; 
a  pair  pf  hofe  and  (hoes  befides  their  fee. 

6tb^  No  potatoes,  carrots,  or  turnips,  &c.  were  ufed  by  the 
inhabitants,  only  a  few  kail  M'ere  planted  in  their  yards,  for 
the  pot. 

Year  1759. 

1^1  Carts  were  become  more  jiumerous,  there  being  then 
about  twenty  in  the  pari(h,  their  wheels  (hod  with  iron. 

2dj  The  broad  plough  ftill  continued  in  many  placed^ 
though,  in  general,  the  horfes  were  now  yoked,  two  and  two  ; 
ftiU  there  were  no  fanners  for  the  milns  or  bams,  the  farmers 
being  obliged  to  winnow  the  corn  in  the  fields. 

3^,  A  man^fervant  came  now  to  receive  fifty  (hillings  and 
three  pounds  Sterling  per  half  year ;  and  a  wohian  twenty 
five  or  thirty  (hillings  only  per  half  year. 

4/A,  There  were  now  two  wheeled  chai(cs  in  the  pari(h ; 
and  Engli(h  cloth  began  to  be  worn  occafionally  by  the  bet- 
ter 


584  Statijlical  Account 

ter  fort  of  people,  along  with  worfled  (lockings,  and  bucldcj 
'in  their  (hoes.  ' 

5/^,  Potatoes  dill  were  only  cultivated  in  lazy  beds. 

6ihy  Very  decent  farmers  thought  it  neccfTiry  to  have  fomc 
part  of  a  fat  cow  or  a  few  (heep  falted  up  for  winter  (lore. 

7/A,  By  the  leafes  granted  by  the  proprietors  of  land  at  this 
time,  the  tenants  were  taken  bound  to  inclofe  fomc  part  of 
the  farm  ;  (lifl  there  was  no  fown  grafs  in  the  parifh,  and  the 
cattle  grazed  promifcoufly  in  the  winter  feafon. 

8/A,  There  were  no  clocks  in  the  parifh,  except  in  the  houfcs 
of  the  gentry  and  principal  inhabitants^ 

Year  1794. 

iy7,  There  arc  nearly  two  hundred  carts  In  the  pari(h,  pcr«» 
fcftly  equipped  for  any  draught. 

2dy  There  are  four  poft-chaifes,  and  three  coaches,  and  one 
two  wheeled  chaife,  kept  by  (he  gentry,  in  the  proper  ftyle. 

3  J,  The  wages  of  a  man-fervant  is  betwixt  five  pounds  and 
fix  pounds  per  half  year  *,  and  a  woman^s  from  two  to  three 
pounds  ditto. 

4/A,  Potatoes  is  now  unlverfally  ufed  by  all  ranks  of  pco* 
pie,  for  at  lead  fix  months  in  the  year. 

5/A,  Wheatcn  bread  is  now  univerfally  ufed  by  every  dc- 
fcription  of  people  ;  there  being  no  lefs  than  two  bakers  da« 
tionary  in  the  pariih,  befides  (bme  hundred  pounds  value  of 
wheaten  bread  brought  annually  from  Kirkintilloch  and  GIa£> 
gow* 

6th  There  have  been  near  three  hundred  fat  cows  killed 
annually  about  the  Martinmafs  time  for  winter  provifion  ; 
^fides  the  mutton,  beef,  and  lamb,  killed  through  the  feafon^ 
jby  two  butchers  refiding  in  the  pariQi. 

7/A, 


ofCampJh.  3*> 

'jthy  Erery  lad  now  dreflcs  in  EBglifli  cloaths  and  &ncy  veRs, 
with  thread  or  cotton  (lockings }  and  every  girl  in  cotton  ftuflf^ 
black  filk  cloaks  and  £ancy  bonnets. 

Zthy  The  quantity  of  liquor  drunk  in  the  fcven^e^n  pub- 
lic houfea  in  this  pariih  mult  be  very  great  indeed ;  as,  I 
have  been  told  that  four  and  five  pounds,  at  a  recloning^  have 
been  coIle£ted  from  a  company  of  journeymen  and  apprenti- 
ces on  a  pay  night.  ^ 

9/A,  The  houfes  of  every  decent  inhabitant.of  this  pari(h» 
confift  at  leaft  of  a  kitchen  and  one  room,  generally  two 
rooms,  ceiled  above,  and  often  laid  with  deal  floors,  with  ele- 
gant glafs  windows ;  and  I  believe,  few  of  the  tradefmen  fit 
down  to  dinner  without  fiefli  meat  on  the  table,  and  malt  li- 
quor to  drink :  Such  is  the  relative  (ituation  of  a  parifti  in 
the  year  1 794,  when  fome  dcGgning  peopte  ufed  every  ef- 
fort to  convince  thern^  that  they  wefe  poor,  and  miferable, 
9nd  enjlavedf. 

Advantages  and  Disadvantages. — ^The  advantages  of  this 
parifli  have  been  confidered  as  of  a  very  fuperior  kind  :  The 
foil  is  naturally  dry  \  the  dreams  of  water  for  bleaching  and 
driving  machinery  are  numerous  \  the  quantity  of  coal  and 
lime  is  inexhauftible  \  it  is  completely  interfe£led  by  excellent 
roads ;  and,  it  is  believed,  that  it  is  able  to  fupply  itfelf  with 
all  the  neceflaries  of  life  *,  and,  confidering  the  number  of 
firangera  which  takp  up  ^heir  refidence  amongft  us,  we  are  led 
to  believe,  that  few  places  are  more  comfortable  to  the  inferior 
clafs  of  people ;  Glafgow  affording  a  ready  market  for  the 
produce  both  of  their  farms  and  their  induftry. 

On  the  other  hand,  it  may  be  confidered  as  one  of  the  dear- 
eft  places  in  Scotland  for  all  forts  of  living,  and  particularly 
fo  for  thofe  who  live  upon  fixed  incomes  \  and  I  am  likewife 

Vol.  Xy.  3  D  inclined 


386  StatlUkal  Account 

inclined  to  believe,  from  the  turn  that  the  young  people  have 
taken  to  manufa£bure8|  that  farmers  have  rather  found  it  dif- 
ficult to  procure  fervants  and  labourers  for  the  purpofes  of 
cultivating  the  land  :  Perhaps  it  wi)l  be  the  intered  both  of  the 
landlords  and  the  farmers,  to  fall  upon  fome  mode  of  mana- 
gement which  may  counteract  this  growing  eyi|. 


NUMBER 


'tf  Stroajhy  land  Eday,  ^if 


NUMBER    XX. 


tlNITEB   PAktSkES   of    STRON- 
SAY  AND  EDAY. 


l^pRBSBTtEliT  dF  North  IsLfis,  StNoD  of  OasMftT,  G>okz 

TT  OF  OaEN£T  ANS  SHETLAND.) 


By  the  Aev.  Mr  John  Anderson;  Mihijier. 


Extent  and  Situatiom  . 

X  HE  Illand  of  Stronfay  is  five  computed  miles  long,  andal- 
tnoff  as  broad  from  Eaft  to  Weft,  fo  indented  with  bays,  that 
there  is  no  part  of  the  illand  above  one  mile  from  the  fea. 
This,  with  the  iinall  ifland  of  Papa,  the  extent  of  which^ 
round  the  fliores,  is  about  three  miles ;  and  with  the  Holms* 
br  paftur^  iflands,  comprehends  what  is  now  termed  the  pa- 
riih  of  Stronfay.  Th^  ifland  of  Eday,  which  is  about  the 
tentre  of  the  North  ifles  of  Orkney,  has  rapid  tides,'  whidh 
wa(h  the  Eaft  and  Weft  fides  of  it ;  thcfe  occafion  eddies 
bxl  the  North  and  South  ends,  to  which  citcumftance^  it  prcH 

3  D  a  babiy 


388  Siatijiical  Account 

bablj  dwes  fts  name.    It  is  computed  to  be  five  miles  \otigf  , 
and  nearly  a  mile  and  a  half  broad  f  * 

Sea  Coa/f^  Harbours^  isfc. — ^The  ifland  of  Stronfay  has  fix 
principal  nefles ;  viz-  Huipsnefs,  Gricenefs,  Odnefsy.  Lam- 
nefS)  Tomcfsy  and  LinksneCk  The  refemblance  in  found 
which  two  of  thcfe,  Torncfs  and  Odnefs,  have  to  Thor  and 
Woden,  the  Teutonic  Deities>  leaves  room  to  conjefture  their 
derivation. 

There  are  two  promontories,  Borrowhead  on  the  South 
£all,  and  Rotheshoim  ( Ronfum)  head  on  the  South  Weft; 
this  was  of  old  called  Rodneip  or  Rodnumhead. 

The  other  parts  of  fea  coaft  or  (hores  about  this  ifland,  con- 
fift  partly  of  three  fandy  bays ;  one  on  the  Eaft,  the  Miln« 
bay ;  one  on  the  South,  the  bay  of  Holland ;  and  one  oa 
Weft,  the  bay  of  Ertgarth  or  Weft  Wick.  The  fandy  beaches 
of  the  two  firft  mentioned,  extend  each  a  mile  in  length  ; 
that  of  the  iaft  not  (b  much,  except  at  low  water  of  {jpring 
tides  5  and  confift  partly  of  fkerries,  (flat  rocks,  over  which 
the  fea  flows  and  ebbs  0  which,  with  the  (hores  of  the  nefies, 

and 


f  This,  with  the  Ifle  of  Falray,  which  is  about  one  mile  long,  tnd  lefiithaa 
half  a  mile  broad,  and  with  the  HoSniec,  comprehends  the  parifli  of  Bdaj. 
To  the  parjih  of  Srronfay,  the  four  holms  called  Auikerry,  Mukle  Lioga  or 
Holm  of  Midgarth,  Little  Linga  and  Holm  of  Huip,  do  belong ;  and  to  the 
parifli  of  Eday  five;  viz,  Calf  ol  Eday,  Mukle  Green  Holm,  Little  Greea 
Holm,  Holm  of  Fairay  and  Rcdholm.  .So  the  number  of  iflands,  great, 
and  fmall,  in  this  diflrid,  amounts  to  no  lefs  than  thirteen.  This  ^StnA  hat 
-  the  ifland  of  Sanday  on  the  North,  the  Fair  file  on  the  North  Eaft ;  (at  the 
jnanfe,  ficuatcd  on  the  N.  E.  fide  of  Stronfay,  this  ifle  may  be  diAin^Iy  ken, 
when  the  iky  is  dear  and  wtn4  cafterly,  although  about  thirty  fix  miles  dif. 
tant ;)  the  Gcrn^an  Ocean  «n  the  Eaft,  the  united  pariflies  of  Decrnefs  and 
St.  Andf ews  on  the  South ;  the  parilh  of  Shapinflcay  on  the  South  Wefl ; 
the  united  parifhes  of  Rcnfay  and  Eglifbay  on  the  Weft;  and  the  united  pa- 
tiihes  af  Weftray  and  Papa  Weftray,  on  the  North  >^eft. 


of  Stronfay  and  Eday.  3S9 

and  South  Weft  promontory  above  mentioned,  produce* 
great  quantities  of  tang,  or  fisa-weed,  fit  for  the  kelp  manu« 
fa(3ure. 

On  the  Eaft  fide  of  the  ifland,  little  kelp  can  be  made,  as 
few  flterries  ly  there  to  produce  tang.  The  water  is  dt*cp 
nigh  the  (hore,  and  the  rocks  abrupt,  o^ing  perhaps  to  their 
having  no  (helter  from  the  German  Ocean. 

The  ridge  or  rifing  ground,  which  runs  almoft  the  length 
t>f  the  iiland  from  North  to  South,  hath  its  furface  covered 
with  fliort  heath,  where  it  has  not  been  cut  up  lately  for  turf 
or  feuel ;  the  foil  is  a  dry,  friable,  blackifh  earth  -,  the  bottom 
clay,  mixed  with  fmall  ftones,  and  in  many  places  gravelly 
and  fiiallow.  The  expcnce  of  cultivating  fuch  a  fubjeA, 
might  perhaps  nearly  equal  its  value  when  improved.  It  is 
the  common  pafture  or  out-freedom  of  ail  the  &rms  and 
lioufes  adjacent  to  it.  The  MilUdim  divides  this  from  the 
common  pafture  of  the  farms  on  the  Eaft  fide  of  the  ifland, 
which  t:ommon  is  covered  with  grafe  of  a  mean  quality;  but 
as  it  has  greater  deepnefs  of  foil  than  the  other  common,  and 
a  bottom  of  tough  clay,  it  might  probably  recompence  more 
liberally  theJabour  and  expence  of  the  improver  :|:4 

The 

t  Of  old,  the  corn  fields,  and  fudi  grafs  as  was  efleemed  valuable,  qp  tlut 
ifland,  wcce  feparated  from  the  commons,  now  defcribedjby  hill-dykes,  (as  they 
%Tt  ufually  tenned,)  hnilt  of  feal  or  carf,  which  are  kept  up  through  Ork- 
.  tiey  aa  general  to  this  day.  A  confiderable  proportion  of  the  hill.dykes  of  thii 
iilasd  were  fullered  to  fall  into  difrepair,  about  thirty  years  ago,  by  the  ad- 
vice of  Thomas  Balfour,  of  Huip,  an'herltor  in  this  iiland,  who  died  about 
ievcn  years  ago.  He  was  of  opinion,  that  the  expcnce  of  keeping  up  thcfo 
4ykes,  was^eater  than  the  advantage  derived  from  them  9  but  this  opinio0 
is  not  univerfally  acquiefced  in  by  the  inhabitants. 

AU  the  Qcites  above  mentioned,  except  Linkfnefs,  (of  which  under  the  ar- 
Ajcle  ftate  of  agriculture,  &c.)  are  appropriated  for  (beep  padure,  on  the  ref. 
f^Aive  iilhiuiiir<8  of  which  nefles,  hiU*dyk«s  are  iUll  kept  in  repair,  to  prevent 

the 


S^i  Siati/lical  Account 

The  fmall  iflsind  of  Papa  Stronfay^  lying  flat  with  corit 
ficldsi  which  have  been  ftimulatcd  by  plenty  of  ware,  toraifc 
luxuriant  crops  of  grain,  lyes  on  the  North  Eaft  Gde  of 
Stronfay,  is  feparated  from  it  by  ^  narrow  fdudd;  over  which 
^wo  men  can  row  a  fmali  boat  in  five  minutes,  and  adds  a 
tarigatcd  beauty  to  the  profpcft  On  that  fide. 

Thelfland  of  £day»  confiding  chiefly  of  hills  of  a  mode^ 
rate  height,  and  pretty  extenfive,  had  been  much  ufedof  oldt 
for  pafture,  as  appears  from  ailcient  rentals,  (1598  and  pfe^ 
ceedirig,)  in  whichj  a  great  proportion  of  its  rent  is  charged 
in  butter  and  flefli.  Three  fourths  of  it,  at  lead,  confift  of 
out-freedom,  or  common  pafture,  to  this  day ;  this  common 
Is  cbircred  moftly  with  heathel*,  which,  in  fome  places,  though 
not  in  general,  is  pretty  long,  and  is  divided  from  the  graft 
and  corn  fields,  by  hill-dykes,  as  in  the  days  of  yore.  On 
this  common,  a  confiderable  number  of  ihcep,  befides  hdrfes, 

black 

the  fliccp  from  ftraying  over  the  ifland  in  fummcr  and  hanreft ;  (the  neis 
ibeep  have  no  herds ;)  but,  during  the  winter,  and  more  than  half  the  fprin^« 
ihey  have  full  freedom  to  graze  at  large  over  the  ifland.  Borrowhead,  and 
kotheaholm  are  alfo  flieep  walks ;  the  latter  of  which,  being  of  great  extent, 
cort^rehcnds  the  whole  peat  mofs  in  the  ifland  of  Stronfay,  from  which  mofs 
the  inhabitants  have,  for  time  immemorial,  been  in  ufe  to  cafl  peats  or  turf 
for  firing,  on  paying  a  fmall  acknowledgement  in  money  or  fervices,  to  the 
tenant  or  pofieflbr  of  the  farm  of  Rothesholm. 

The  commons,  and  flieep  paflure  above  defcribcd,  are  reckoned  to  be  near- 
ly two  thirds  of  the  whole  i^and.  The  other  third  forms  the  Ikirts  or  bor- 
ders of  it ;  where  Nature's  fimple  variety  hath  hitherto  beeh  but  little  eil* 
croachcd  on  by  the  regular  uniformity  of  art.  Com  fields,  of  diflerent  Ihapet 
and  llzes,  Which  fields,  no  man  living  ever  (aw  in  pailnre,  interfperfed  witih 
a  proportional  extent  of  grafs  of  different  qualities,  grafs  which  bears  no 
traces  of  hailing  ever  been  in  tiHage ;  thefe  exhibit  a  fcene  not  iinpleafknt, 
in  the  months  of  fummer  &nd  harveft. 

The  fields  too,  of  natural  grafs,  even  in  winter,  retain  a  degree  of  lively 
verdure,  fuperior  to  thofe  in  many  of  the  interior  parts  of  Scotland.  It  is  ob-' 
fcrvable,  that  the  flatter  any  of  thofe  iflands  are  found  to  be,  <he  better,  ufil^ 
iby,  is  the  quality  of  their  gtafs,  and  the  mgre  lively  tbcit  Verdure. 


9fStronfay  and  Eday.  3^1 

black  cattle,  &c.  graze  at  large.  Their  number,  it  is  fup-? 
pofed,  might  be  greatly  incrcafed,  and  the  breed  improved, 
were  proper  (hepherds  to  take  charge  of  them.  The  corn 
and  grafs  fields  which  lie  along  the  (kirts  of  die  ifland,  are 
interrupted  by  the  common  pafture,  which,  in  fome  places^ 
runs  a  great  way  along  the  fhores  *. 

There  are  two  commodious  harbours  or  road-ftcads,  in 
the  ifland  of  Stronfay,  fafe  for  (hipping  at  all  feafons,  and 
in  all  weathers }  viz.  ifty  Ling,  a  found  on  the  Weft  (ide 
IDvell  (heltercd  by  Mukle  Ling,  or  holm  of  Midgarth  from 
wefterly  winds,  and  from  all  otlier  winds  by  the  ifland  itfelf. 
This  harbour  has  two  entries,  a  South  Weft  and  a  North 
Weft  entry ;  through  the  South  Weft  one,  which  is  the 
widcft,  large  veflfels  may  cafily  pafe,  with  the  affiftance  of  a 
pilot»  and  can  ride  on  four  fathoms  water,  a//,  Papa  found, 
on  the  North  Eaft  fide  of  Stronfay,  (hcltered  by  the  fmall 
ifland  of  Papa  Stronfay  \  there  ar^  two  entries,  on^  from  the 

North 

*  The  fea  coall  is  y^riout,  f^ndy,  ftonry,  gravelly,  aod,  in  fome  places,  o« 
the  South  Weft  and  North  fides,  hold,  from  40  to  ten  fathoms.  Tlie  water, 
though  not  very  deep,  wafhes  the  feet  of  thefe  precipices.  The  remaining 
parts  of  fea  coaft  are  low  rocks  or  ikerrica,  covered  with  tang,  of  which  a 
coofiderable  quantity  of  kelp  is  nianufaAured  annually.  £day  lies  Weft  fron\ 
Stroniay.  The  fouod  which  feparates  thefe  iflands  is  about  three  miles  over 
at  the  Ferry. 

Fairay  lies  Weft  from  Enay,  at  the  diftance  of  a  mile  and  half,  the  Weft 
iide  of  which  is  expofed  to  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  which  ruHies  with  great  ra* 
pidity  through  Weftray  Firth :  This  iplet  of  fea  feparates  the  iilands  ^l  Wcfl- 
lay  on  the  North,  and  Roufay  on  the  South  :  From  this  caiife,  the  ifland  of 
]Fairay  is  much  expofed  to  have  its  crops  of  grain  damaged  by  the  fpray  of 
the  fea.  This  ifland,  and  two  holms  apperuiniug  to  it,  are  well  adapted  for 
the  pal^e  of  cattle  or  flieep;  and  tang  grows  on  fome  of  iu  Ihores,  for  the 
^naottfiidure  of  kelp, 

The  three  holmes  which  belong  to  the  ifland  of  £day  ;  and  the  four  which 
belong  to  the  ifland  of  Stronfay,  do  all  produce  excellent  pafture  for  flieep, 
for  fome  fmaU  horfes  and  for  black  cattle^  which  the  tenants  tranfport  by 
boat,  from  the  inhabited  iflands,  in  the  beginning  of  Jooej  and  carry  back 
\j  the  fapie  cosveyancc  about  the  cod  of  September. 


39^  Stati/iical  Account 

North  Weft,  which  is  the  wideft  and  fafcft ;  and  the  othct^ 
from  the  Eaft  j  a  ftrangcr,  however,  would  require  a  pilot,  as 
the  Weft  entry  is  intricate,  .and  the  Eaft  one  narrow  and 
dangerous.  Small  veflels  can  ride  here  fafely  at  all  feafons. 
There  are  bays  alio  on  the  Eaft,  South,  Weft,  and  Nortk 
Weft  fides,  in  which  veflels  may  drop  anchor,  and  ride  fafe- 
ly,  if  the  wind  do  not  blow  ftrong  on  fliore.  There  are  two 
good  harbours'  or  road  fteads  in  the  ifland  of  Eday  ;  Fairf- 
xiefs  Sound,  on  the  Weft  fide,  fheltcred  by  the  fmall  ifle  of 
Fairay,  and  Calf  Sound,  on  the  North  end,  (licltered  by  the 
Calf  of  Eday.  Veflels  of  great  burden  may  ride  at  anchor 
fafely  in  thefe  road-fteads,  each  of  which  has  the  advantage 
of  two  entries.  There  is  alfo  a  bay  on  the  South  end  of  E- 
day,  where  veflels  may  ride  fafely,  if  the  wind  do  not  blow 
ftrong  on  (hore. 

State  of  Property, — ^The  iflands  of  Orkney  anciently  belong- 
ed to  the  King  of  Denmark  and  Norway  ;  but  on  the  mar- 
riage of  Margaret,  the  princefs  royal,  about  the  year  14(^8,  to 
the  King  of  Scotland,  with  whom  he  was  to  receive  50,000 
florins  of  the  Rhine ;  the  iflands  of  Orkney  and  Shetland 
were  mortgaged  for  that  fum,  and  afterwards  annexed  to  the 
Crown  of  Scotland.  It  was  ftipulated,  that  the  laws  and  pri-. 
vileges  of  the  inhabitants  ftiould  remain  inviolable. 

That  fome  traces  of  the  manners,  cuftoms,  language,  and 
laws  of  the  Norwegians,  are  ftill  to  be  found  in  thefe  iflandst, 
may  be  naturally  cxpefted  *,  owing  to  which,  improveroenls. 
in  farming,  and  other  arts,  have  been  fcverely  checked  or 
much  retarded  •,  and  the  ftate  of  property,  of  courfe,  influen-* 
ccd  in  no  fmall  degree,  even  to  this  day.  ' 

Heritable  property  in. Orkney  may  bo  confidercA  as  divid- 
ed into  Kings  lands,  kirk  lands,  and  udal  lands.  The  whole 
i[ents  of  the  flrft  mentioned,  being  demefne  land s^  were  an- 

cicptlj 


"^  of  Strortfay  and  Eday.  39  j 

cicntly  paid  to  tlic  fovercign  :  Thcfe,  in  procefs  of  time,  were 
feued  by  the  Crown  or  its  donators,  in  parcels  to  the  tenants, 
or  others  who  had  intereft  to  procure  them  ;  which  feus  they 
in  genera]  obtained  for  payment  of  tlie  old  rental.  In  fome 
inftances,  for  a  fmall  augmentation  of  the  rental  5  and  in  o- 
thers,  with  a  deduftion  therefrom :  the  reafon  affigned  for 
which  laft,  is,  the  lands  Xverc  dear,  and  like  to  ly  ley  for 
want  of  tenants. 

The  kirk  lands  were  in  (imilar  ctrcumftances,  and  were 
feued  in  like  manner  of  old,  by  ecclefraftics  or  church- men, 
for  the  old  rental  or  thereby.  Some  of  the  udal  lands  pay 
a  fmall  proportion  of  yearly  rent  to  the  King,  and  to  the 
kirk ;  and  fome  of  them  do  not  pay  any  thing  to  one  or  to  the 
ther.  Ill  fiances  of  all  thefe  fpecialities  are  to  be  found  in 
this  diilrid*. 

Vol.  XV.  3E  The 

•  The  trnth  of  thefc  obfcrvations  will  appear,  by  examining  a  complete 
rental  book,  of  the  whole  lands  in  Orkney  and  Shetland,  made  up  in  159S; 
by  James  Law,  bifliop  of  Orkney,  which  was  entered  and  rented  in  £zch&> 
quer,  on  the  i8th  November  16 17,  and  is  ftill  extant  in  the  Regiller  Office. 
More  than  10  years  after  faid  Mental  was  made  up,  namely,  in  the  year  1621, 
Orkney  heritors  were  denominated,  in  their  public  records,  to  be  "  mean 
«•  men,  and  farmourers,  and  payers  of  the  riggs  of  the  rental."  They  had  con- 
tinued, it  feems,  to  polTefs  the  farms,  or  parcels  of  lands,  which  they  and  their 
forefathers  had  feued,  or  had  let  them  to  their  principal  fervants,  or  depen- 
,dents,  with  the  fleel-bow  ;  that  is,  the  ftocking  of  the  farms,  fuch  as  horfei, 
black  cattle,  iheep,  labouring  inftruments,  and  eTen  houfehold  furnltnre.  '¥ot 
which  farms  and  Heel-bow,  tenants  of  this  dcfcriptioD  become  bound  to  pay 
the  old  rental,  or  feu-duty,  and  fuch  additional  rent  as  the  hnd  could  bear. 
At  this  pcridd,  and  long  after,  the  feuers  lived  in  terms  of  ibcial  interconriT^it 
and  familiarity  with  their  tenants;  for  maintaining  and  perpetuating  of  which, 
annual  entertainmetitSy  confiding  of  the  befl  Tiands'  which  the  farms  pro- 
duced, were  chearfully  given  by  the  tenants  to  their  landlords,  during  the" 
Chridmas  holy  days  :  Thefe  entertainments,  called  bummacks,  ftrengthened 
and  confirmed  the  bonds  of  mutual  confidence,  attachment,  and  regard, 
Ti'hich  ought  to  fubfi!!:  between  thofc  ranks  of  men.    As  aii  in^ance  of 

Whichj 


394  Statijlical  Account 

The  praQicc  adopted  bjr  many,  of  giving  fliort  leslfes  of 
of  farms,  by  otliers  of  giving  no  Icafes,  and  by  all  of  giving 
very  fcanty  encouragement  to  meliorate  the  foil,  on  the  part 
of  the  heritors  *,  and,  on  the  part  of  the  tenants,  a  pertinacious 
adherence  to  old  cufloms,  and  to  the  method  of  farming  ufed 
in  02;kuey,  more  than  a  hundred  years  ago,  hav6  hitherto 
been  found  great  obftrudions  to  improvements  in  Agricul- 
ture. 

Many  Orkney  eftates  arc  of  fmall  extent :  Parcels  of  land, 
belonging  to  one  heritor,  ly  interfperfed,  or  run^rig  with 
thofe  belonging  to  other  heritors,  one  or  more.  The  udal 
tenures,  by  which  many  fmall  portions  of  land  are  held,  ren-* 
der  their  conveyance  cheap  and  eafy,  and  fuch  property,  in 
fomerefpeds  precarious  i  for  who  can  deny,  that  the  poor 
man's  little  ewe  lamb  is  much  expofed  to  be  carried  off  with 
the  large  flocks  of  his  wealtliy  neighbours  ;  or,  to  be  fecret- 
]y  devoured  by  fome  bead  of  prey>  or  ravenous  bird  || « 

Manufa&ure 

^hich,  on  the  part  of  the  tenants,  the  following  pra<9ice  was  inttoduced; 
The  tenanu  wives  went  regularly,  about  the  term  of  Lammas,  to  the 
fevars  wives,  their  landladies,  with  prefents  of  butter,  cheefe,  eggs,  &c. 
faence  called  Lammas  prefents.  The  Chriftmas  bommacks  are  almoil  uni- 
verfally  difcontinued ;  but,  in  fome  inftanccs,  the  heritors  have,  in  lieu  of  ac* 
cepting  fuch  entertainments,  fubftituted  a  certain  quantity  of  meal  and  malt 
to  be  paid  to  them  annually  by  the  tenants.  The  praiftice  of  giving  annual 
prefents  at  Lammas  is  not  univerfally  kept  up  by  the  tenants  wives  ;  bat 
there  are  not  wanting  inllances  where  it  is  ftill  found  to  fubfift. 

Heritors  and  tenants  arc  now  become  more  wealthy  than  their  anceftors. 
The  fteel*bow,  or  flocking  on  the  farms,  hath,  in  general,  been  purthafed  by 
the  tenants,  and  a  recent  influx  of  wealthy  chiefly  owing  to  the  manufa^ure 
of  kelp,  hath  occaijoned  a  very  great  change  in  this  country,  on  the  date  of 
landed  property,  mode  of  living,  and  mannera  of  the  inhabitants. 

I  The  ancient  pra<iice  of  ereding  feal  or  turf  dykes,  which  require  an. 
sual  repirs,  around  their  grafs  and  corn  land,  at  the  joint  ezpencc  of  the  pof- 

feflbrv 


of  Stronfay  and  Eday.  395 

Manufa&ure'ofKeip — ^This  valuablcy  and,  as  it  may  now 
be  confidcred,  ftaplc  commodity  of  Orkney,  (was  fir  ft  of  all 
in  this  county  manufafturcd  in  the  ifland  of  Stronfay,  by 
James  Fca,  heritable  proprietor  of  Whitehall,)  and  Wadfet*. 
ter  of  North  Strynrie,  in  the  year  1722.  This  was  a  gentle- 
man of  an  cnterprifing  fpirit,  who  brought  a  nwn  of  thc'name 
of  Meldrum,  from  Frafersburgh,  to  introduce  kelp  burning 
in  Orkney  ;  Meldrum,  taking  the  Orkney  inhabitants  to  be  an 
ignorant  and  fuperftitious  race  of  men,  pretended  that  the  kelp 
a(hes  would  not  acquire  fuch  a  hard  and  folid  confiftence  as 
was  requifite,  unlefs  a  certain  powder  was  thrown  into  the 
kelp  kilne  before  it  was  raked,  accompanied  with  certain  myf- 
terious  words,  to  the  ufe  of  which  powder  arid  myfterious 
words,  he  claimed  an  exclufire  right  in  that  ifland. 

He,  however,  foon  found,  that  the  inhabitants  of  Stronfay 

had  more  penetration  and  lefs  fuperftition,  than  to  be  long 

hood- winked  in  this  manner ;  for  they  found,  on  trial,  that  the 

3E2  kelp 

fcffbrs,  in  order  to  keep  off  their  own  and  their  neighbour*  horfc!»,  yield  cat- 
tle, f^vme,  &c.  in  fummer  and  harveft  ;  is  ftill  adhered  to  more  or  lefs,  in 
moQ  of  the  Orkney  illanda.  The  general  cuftom  of  allowing  their  com  land 
to  ly  unmolefted,  during  the  winter,  and  until  the  weather  fets  In  fair  in 
fpring,  which  it  feldon  does  before  March  or  April ;  after  which,  their  whole 
Agricultural  labour  mud  be  executed,  before  the  kelp  feafon  begins,  in  the 
month  of  May,  or  be  done  afterwards  in  a  very  Aiperfidal  manner ;  fro»n 
which  caufes,  an  extra  number  of  fervants  and  horfct  become  neceffary, 
which  tends  greatly'  to  iacreafe  the  expellee  of  labour  to  the  Orkney 
farmer.  The  confiderable  heritors  in  Orkney,  with  very  few  exceptions, 
have  either  removed  with  their  families,  from  their  manCons  in  the  country, 
to  refide  in  Kirkwall,  the  only  Royal  Burgh  in  Orkney ;  t>r  have,  with  their 
families,  left  the  county  altogether ;  and  therefore,  they  find  few  opportimi- 
ties  of  attending  to  the  proceedings  or  rewarding  the  meritorious  exertions 
of  their  tenanUi  From  thefe  circumllances,  the  prefent  unimproved  flate  of 
the  country  in  geocral,  may  be  eafily  accounted  for. 

Inftead  of  improTing  the  foil,  the  heritors  and  tenants  id  Orkney,  have 
for  aftny  years  paft,  dirc&ed  their  attention  to  tlic  manufacture  of  kelp. 


396  Statistical  Account 

kelp  aflies,  merely  by  the  labour  vfually  adhibited  pofterior 
to  this  mydical  application,  became  equally  folid  and  good 
in  quality,  without^  as  with  the  aid  of  tlie  magical  words  and 
powder. 

This  commodity  fold  for  feveral  years  pofterior  to  the 
date  before  mentioned,  to  a  bottlc*makcr  at  Newcaille,  for 
3  1.  Sterling  per  ton  of  20  cwt.  \  but  the  manufatSturers, 
pr  their  employers,  delirous  to  make  as  much  as  pofUble  by 
jthis  new  concern,  began  to  adulterate  the  kelp  aihes,  by  mix* 
ing  fmall  ftones  or  fand  therewith ;  which  impofitlon  being 
foon  difcovered,  the  price  was  reduced  to  al.  10  s.,  and  the 
ton  fixed  at  2 1  cwt*,  which  hath  ever  fince  been  held  the 
the  weight  of  a  ton  of  kelp.  The  lall  mentioned  price  con- 
tinued for  about  20  years,  to  be  the  rate  for  which  it  fold, 
at  an  average  \  during  which  period,  the  annual  quantity  did 
not  exceed  400  tons. 

In  the  year  1744,  kelp  fell  fo  low,  that  Mr  Thomas  Bal- 
four, thAi  a  merchant,  and  afterwards  heritor  of  the  lands 
of  Huip  and  others  in  Stronfay,  bought  a  fmall  cargo  of  it, 
at  20  8.  and  20  s.  6d.  per  ton  in  Orkney,  carried  it  to  Ncw- 
caftle,  and  fold  it  tliere  for  the  current  prices ;  and,  on  ba- 
lancing accompts,  found,  that  he  had  loft  1 5^er  cent  by  the 
adventure ;  as  the  author  hath  often  heard  him  declare. 
For  nineteen  years  afterwards,  the  average  quantity  was  a- 
bout  700  tons,  price  2 1,  10  s.  The  heritors  of  this  diftri£t 
had  about  one  tenth  of  the  whole  quantity  annually  made  in 
Orkney ;  for  each  ton  of  which,  the  heritors  drew  about  208. 
the  makers  and  purchafers  the  remainder*  .. 

In  1763,  and  for  15  years  followin|r,  the  average  quantity 
made  annually  in  Orkney,  was  1 800  tons*  Of  which,  the 
heritors  in  this  diftrift  have  about  180. 

The  heritors,  in  general,  during  this  period,  became  mer- 
chants of  their  own  kelp,  or  fold  it  on  commiflion.   The  an- 

auaf 


cf  Stronfay  and  Eday.  397 

jiual  average  price  at  market  was  4L  4  s.  Sterling  \  the  price 
of  making  was  raifeil  to  about  26  s.  and  freight  12  s.  per 
ton. 

The  heritors  and  kelp  proprietors  of  thb  diftrift,  drew  an- 
nually about  350 1-  Tlie  tenants  and  makers  about  230 1.  The 
remainder  went  for  freight  and  commiflion. 

In  1778,  and  for  fourteen  years  after,  the  ayerage  quanti- 
ty annually  burnt  in  Orkney,  was  3000  tons,  at  6  ].  p^r  ton. 
The  heritors  of  this  diftrift  had  about  300.  The  price  of 
making  was  raifed  to  1 1.  1 5  s.  per  ton,  of  which  rife  the 
tenants  chiefly  reaped  the  benefit.  -  The  heritors  and  kelp 
proprietors  of  this  diftrifl,  drew  annnally  about  1050 1.  The 
tenants  527  1.  The  remainder  went  for  freight  and  com- 
miflion. 

In  1792,  the  extraordinary  good  feafon  for  the  growth  of 
fca  weeds,  of  which  kelp  is  made,  and  for  the  manufaftur- 
ing  of  it,  produced  in  this  diftrift,  to  the  incumbent's- certain 
knowledge  or  bed  information,  no  lefs  a  quantity  than  400 
tons ;  when,  at  the  fame  time,  the  whole  Orkney  iflands  did 
not  produce  above  4,000  tons.  It  is  in  this  ratio,  therefore, 
that  he  has  calculated  the  produce  of  this  di(lri£l:  from  the 
year  1744,  during  the  feveral  fubfequent  periods  above  'fpe- 
cified,  ^nd  60  tons,  the  average  quantity  annually  produced 
preceding  that  date ;  which,  in  the  earlieft  period,  is  a  fome- 
what  larger  proportion,  which  Stronfay  (where  kelp  was 
firft  manufafhired  in  Orkney,)  may  reafonably  be  fuppofed 
to  have  produced* 

I^  *793>  t^c  feafon  proved  rainy  and  unfavourable  for 
kelp.  This  diftri£t  did  not  produce  above  300  tons,  price 
in  OrCney  4  L  per.  ton.  The  heritors  and  kelp  proprietors 
drew  775  1. ;  the  tenants  and  kelp  makers,  525  1.  Steriing, 
clear  of  all  deduftions,  being  in  the  fame  proportions  as 
the  year  paeceding. 

•  This 


39$  Statijlical  Account 

Thisfcafon,  1794,  being  remarkably  favourable  for  kelp 
bnming,  promifcs  an  abundant  crop  in  Orkneys  which  may 
equal,  or  perhaps  exceed  that  of  1792. 

The  quantities  of  kelp  made,  with  the  average  prices  at 
the  diffejent  periods  above  fpecified,  are  taken » in  a  great  mea- 
fure,  from  the  information  given  by  the  Orkney  gentlemen 
in  the  year  1766  to  Mr  M* Tavifh,  who  was  direfted  by  the 
Board  of  Truftees  to  procure  information  refpefting  that 
and  many  other  particulars*. 

Agriculture* " 

*  By  the  above  ftate  it  appears,  that  the  heritors  and  parifiiionen  of  this 
diftridl,  have  drawn  from  kelp,  fincc  the  manufadure  of  it  was  introduced 
by  James  Fea  of  Whitehall,  in  the  year  1721,  no  Icfs  a  fum  than  29,197  L 
30  s.  during  a  period  of  71  years ;  being  41  years  parchafe  of  the  whole  didrid 
at  the  prefent  grofs  rent.  Thofe  of  the  other  iflands  of  Orkney  have  drawn 
nine  times  a»  much  money ;  that  i»^  262,7.77  L  10  s.,  being  ^6  years  purchafe 
of  thcfc  iflands,  at  the  prefent  grofs  rent ;  both  fams  amount  to  291,976  I. 
Sterling,  which  is  more  than  36  years  purchafe  of  all  the  iflands  of  Orkney ; 
the  grofs  rent  of  which  is  only  about  8,000 1.  Sterling  annnually. 

In  thefe  calcnlatioDs,  the  profits  and  advantages  accruing  to  the  traders  and 
others  in  Orkney,  by  carrying  this  commodity  to  market,  are  not  included. 
When,'however,  it  is  coniidered,  that  the  fliips  belooging  to  Orkney  have  been 
almofl  the  only  carriers  of  it  for  many  years  paft,  the  profits  and  other  ad- 
vantages derived  from  this  branch  of  trade  in  thefe  iflands,  mud  not  only 
have  been  great  to  them  as  individuals,  but  alfo  of  no  fmall  importance  to 
the  nation  at  large,  by  extending  its  commerce,  increafing  its  wealth,  and 
producing  a  nurfery  of  excellent  feamen. 

On  this  fubjed,  the  following  remark,  to  many  readers,  will*  it  is  prefamcd, 
naturally  occur  :  That  James  Fea  of  Whitehall,  of  the  ifland  of  Stronlay,  in 
Orkney,  (that  is  the  name  and  defignation  of  the  man,  who  introduced  f« 
finable  a  manufacture  into  his  native  country,)  ought  not  only  to  be  kept  in 
remembrance,  but  that  fome  permanent  teflimony  of  gratitude,  from  thofe 
who  have  reaped  and  ftiU  do  reap  fuch  important  advantages  from  his  fpirit- 
ed  exertions,  ought  to  be  dcvifed,  in  honour  to  his  memory,  and  for  tbe 
encouragement  of  afpiring  genius  in  fucceeding  ages.  Premuims  of  this  na- 
ture, conferred  by  focieties,  by  diflriAs,  or  by  the  public,  honourable  as  they 
tinqueflionably  would  be  to  the  memory  of  thofe  on  t^hom  they  were  con* 
iext£d^  would  certainly  b^  no  lef«  creditable  to  thof<!  who  beftowed  them. 


tf  Strmfay  and  Eday.  ^      399 

Agriculture — ^The  vicinity  of  all  the  cultivated  lands  in 
this  diftii£^  to  the  fea  (horci  induced  of  old  and  ftill  induces 
the  inhabitants  to  ufe  fea-^weed  as  their  chiefs  and  almofton-^  ^ 

ly  manure.  The  great  quantities  of  it  thrown  into  their  nu« 
merous  bays,  creeks,  and  about  their  nefles,  enabled  them 
to  adopt  a  pra£lice  which  is  ftill  continued,  of  putting  one  • 
half  of  their  laboured  land  to  bear  or  bigg,  [which  half  they 
put  to  oats  the  year  following  \  this  fiiort  rotation  they  have 
continued  for  time  immemorial.  They  lay  their  houfe  dung 
on  the  land  defigned  for  bear,  ufually  before  Chriftmas  ;  the 
field  on  which  this  is  laid,  they  keep  perpetually  at  bear,  ex^ 
cept  once  in  fix  or  feven  years,  when  it  becomes  too  rich 
and  fpungy ;  they  then  having  kept  back  the  manure,  take 
a  (ingle  crop  of  oats,  and  go  on  as  before  with  bear  crops* 
The  fide  plough,  with  four  horfes  abreaft,  or  in  broad  band, 
is  mod  generally  ufed.  The  plough-boy  walks  with  a  retro- 
gade  motion,  having  his  face  towards  the  horfes  faces.  The 
extent  of  field  which  fuch  a  plough  labours^  is  about  fifteea 
acres  Scots  meafure. 

The  number  of  returns  of  oats  is  from  three  to  four,  and 
#f  bear  from  five  to  fix  feeds,  at  an  average.  Potatoes  were 
not  generally  planted  fifteen  years  ago,  when  the  prefent  in- 
cumbent was  admitted  minifterj  and,  where  they  were  planted^ 
it  was  on  the  green  fward,  in  the  lazy  bed  way.  Thefe  are  cul-  / 

tivated  more  generally,  and  are  ufually  planted  after  the 
plough,  in  land  which  has  been  long  in  tillage.  They  thrive 
well,  when  kept  clean  from  weeds.  Few  farmers  have  as  yet 
been  induced  to  plant  them  at  fo  great  a  diftance  as  to  ad«« 
mit  of  their  being  horfe  hoed  or  cleaned  by  the  plough ;  a 
fuccefsful  example  in  this  way,  neverthelefs,  hath  more  than 
once  been  exhibited  to  them.  Clover  apid  rye-grafs  feeds, 
during  the  period  before  mentioned,  have  been  fown  as  a  hay 

crop 


\ 


4C0  '  Statijlical  Account 

crop  and  for  pad  are,  and  fu'cceeded  very  well ;  but  the  farm« 
crsj  in  general,  iiave  not  yet  followed  this  ezample,  chiefly 
for  want  of  proper  encouragement  • . 

The 

*  Thomas  Balfour,  before  mentioned,  aftef  purchailng  the  eftate  of  Huipi 
in  the  iflaDd  of  Stronfa^,  began  about  thirty  years  ago,  to  make  fome  improVe* 
ments  in  agriculture,  particularly  on  his  lands  of  Linkncfs  above  dcfcribed, 
which  had  previoufly  been  ufed  only  as  (beep  pafture.  He  ereded  a  (leading 
of  houfes  there,  with  a  view  of  turning  it  into  a  com  fiirm,  induced  no  doubt 
by  the  great  quantities  of  ware  or  fea- weeds  for  manure  thrown  upon  the 
fhores  of  it  annually.  The  foil  was  (hallow  and  poor,  for  much  of  it  had,  b«* 
fore  that  period,  been  cut  up  for  fuel  or  firing  for  cottars  and  fub-tcRanti.  As 
it  had  a  clay  bottom,  tolerable  crops,  when  feafons  were  good,  and  manure 
plenty,  were  produced  ;  but  a  feries  of  bad  feafotu  having  fucceeded  the  year 
1776,  the  heritor,  after  managing  this  new  farm  by  fervants  on  hb  own  ac« 
count,  for  ten  or  twelve  years,  was  plealed  to  let  it  to\  tenant,  together  with 
a  much  larger  farm,  of  which  it  originally  was  a  (heeppailuic-pendicle :  But 
the  farmer  having  found  that  Linkfnefs,  by  being  kept  in  tillage,  did  not  give 
leturns  fufficient  to  indemnify  him  for  the  expence  of  labouring  it,  owing  to 
a  feries  of  bad  feafons  and  other  ncfavonrablc  circumftances,  thought  proper 
to  allow  it  to  revert  to  its  former  iUte  of  natural  grafs,  not  much  mended 
as  to  quality ;  in  which  flate  it  remains  to  this  day.  Mr  Balfour,  with  a 
*  view  to  improve  other  parts  of  his  eftate  in  Stronfay,  inclofed  with  earthen 
fences,  to  the  extent  of  about  50  acres  Scots  meafure ;  and,  adjacent  thereto, 
built  a  Heading  of  farm  houfes  :  But  as  thefe  acres  lay  at  a  much  greater  dif- 
tance  from  fea  weeds  than  the  farm  of  Linkfnefs,  and  moreover  had  no  title' 
to  fttch  weeds  for  manure,  but  by  favour  of  the  fanners  who  had  bnmcmori- 
ally  pofTefled  the  privilege  of  carrying  them  off  to  lay  on  their  corn  fields,  a 
different  mode  of  fanning  from  that  ufcd  in  the  ifland  of  Stronfay  behoved  to 
be  adopted,  and  carried  on,  under  the  dire&ion  of  a  farmer  or  overfeer  brought 
from  a  part  of  the  country,  where  equal  difadvantages  fobflfted.  This  was 
done  for  a  confiderable  number  of  years;  but  this  laudable  attempt  £iiled  of 
fuccefs. 

Mr  Balfour  had  fuch  influence  in  this  iil.ind,  that,  by  his  advice  and  exam- 
ple, he  iiVduccd  fome  farmers  on  other  eHates  to  indofc  parcels  of  their  paf. 
ture  grounds  in  like  manner  as  he  had  done  ;  thefe  farmers,  however,  did  not 
make  any  attempts  to  cultivate  or  improve  tho  grounds  which  they  had  thus 
Inclofed,  prudently  and  patiently  waiting  the  iifuc  of  Mr  Balfour's  experiments 
in  this  way. 

Robert 


of  Sir  on/ay  and  Eddyk  40 1 

The  family  of  Tankcrncfs,  one  of  the  moft  ancient  among 
the  heritors  of  this  diftri£t,  began,  about  40  feats  ago,  to  giv<i 
a  leafe  of  their  lands  in  Eday,  and  pafture  iflands,  pertinents 
thereof,  being  the  whole  heritage  they  now  pofTefs  in  this 
diftri£l,  to  tenants  for  die  fpace  of  nineteen  years ;  viz.  to  a^ 
tenant  named  John  Murray,  and  to  his  fott  James^  who  re- 
newed it  for  other  nineteen  years,  which  laft  Icafc  being 
nearly  expired,  he  hath  again  renewed  it  for  thirty  years }  on 
the  condition  of  paying  a  fpecies  of  rent,  which  in  other 
counties  would  be  deemed  fmgular ;  namely^  a  (certain  quan<i 
tity,  (30  or  35  tons)  of  kelp  yearly.  His  prcfent  landlord^ 
Robert  Baikie  of  Tankemefs,  is  a  poKte,  well  informed,  hof- 
^itable  country  gentleman,  who  had  the  honour  to  be  return- 
ed 'a  member  of  the  Houfe  of  Commons,  to  reprefent  his  na- 
tive  county,  at  the  laft  general  eleAion  fave  one.  This  ten- 
ant hath  built  hundreds  of  fathoms  of  ftone  dykes  for  inclo^^ 
fures ;  hath  repaired  the  farm  houfes  at  a  great  expence  \ 
fome  part  of  which,  however^  hath  been  defrayed  by  his  land- 
lord ;  and  he  hath  made  improvements  on  this  farm  by  rear- 
ing more  cattle,  and  of  a  better  fort  than  in  former  years ;  h^ 
introducing  the  Scotch  or  two  ftilted  plough,  in  ftead  0/ 

Vol.  XVi  3  F  th^ 


kobcxt  Laihg,  another  merchant  in  Kirkwall,  did  alTo  piirchafe  an  efttte^ 
lyings  partly  in  Stronfay  and  partly  in  Eday,  about  24  years  ago. 

He  gave  fome  encouragemcnt^to  hit  tenant  in  North  Strynsie,  and  Stron&yj 
to  make  imprdvementi ;  this  he  did  by  engaging  to  pay  part  of  the  etpencc 
bf  inclofing  certain  parcels  of  that  farm  with  ftone  dyke^  Thefe  materiaU 
beuig  more  Valuable  than  tutf,  and  Che  gronndi  thus  inclofed  of  a  fuperiot 
Quality  to  fuch  as  were  inclofed  by  Mr  Balfour,  rendeted  tht  benefit  tbui 
arifing  from  inclofing  grafs  fields  greater  and  more  permanent.  Thii  tenant^ 
induced,  in  fome  degree,  perhapl,by  the  example  and  adtice  of  hiandghboBt 
(he  minifter,  began  htely  to  inelofe  a  few  acres  of  laboHKd  land,  which  he 
ifatcndi  to  prepare^  withouc  dchiy>  for  laying  down  with  graft  feeds,  for  ha/ 
and  pafivre* 


4ot  Statijlical  AccduHt 

the  Orkney  fide-plough,  but  without  laying  the  latter  afc* 
together  afide  ;  he  hath  made  experiments  by  levelling  and 
improving  uneven  grounds,  fowing  grafs  feeds,  &c.  which 
might  perhaps  entitle  him  to  be  ranked  among  flciltul  and 
Ipirited  farmers  in  any  part  of  Scotland. 

Tm'o  other  heritors  of  this  diftri£^,  merely  by  extending' 
their  tenants  Icafcs  to  twenty  four  years,  without  binding. 
themfelves  to  reimburfe  to  their  tenants  any  expcncc  laid  out 
on  improvements,  and  without  taking  their  tenants  bound  to 
hy  out  fuch  expcnce,  have  the  fatisfii£iion  to  find  a  fpirit  of 
cnterprife  breaking  the  fetters  of  inveterate  praclices,  which 
have  been  long  ago  exploded  from  other  parts  of  Scotland ; 
and  gradually  introducing  the  more  pleafant  and  profitable 
ones  of  inclofingf  fowing  grafs  feeds,  making  hay,  feeding 
tattle,  &c.  and  even  of  repairing,  at  the  tenant's  cxpence,  the 
farm  houfes,  i:i  a  manner  at  once  ttfeful  and  commodious  to 
the  tenant,  eafy  and  advantageous  to  the  heritor.  Gilbert 
Mafon,  merchant  in  Edinburgh,  late  proprietor  of  Rothes<^ 
holm,  now  of  Mordum  ;  and  Andrew  Liddle  merchant  in, 
and  one  of  the  baillies  of  Kirkwall,  now  deceafed,  defer?e 
to  be  mentioned  with  honour,  as  heritors  who  gave  thefe 
leafes  fome  years  ago  to  their  tenants,  and  their  tenants  have 
exerted  that  vigour  and  induflry  which  long  leafes  encourage*. 

There 

*  To  thefe  indicarions  of  induftry  and  adive  exertion  among  the  farmers  of 
this  diftri^,  the  following  ought  not  to  be  pafled  over  iu  Ulence.  A  leafe  of  the 
farm  of  South  Strynzie,  for  a  period  of  only  fifteen  years,  was  given  fomeiime 
9go,  by  Mr  John  ScoUay  the  proprietor,  to  Edward  Chalmers  the  tenant,  who 
has  erc^ed  an  earthen  fence  to  inclofe  eight  or  nine  acres  o<  ground,  which 
was  partly  in  tillage  and  partly  in  natural  grafs.  He  has  not  only  begun 
to  fow  grafs  feeda,  of  which  his  farm  ftands  much  in  need  for  pallure,  but  he 
has  removed  the  farm  houfes  to  a  much  more  convenient  fituation  than  they 
occupied  when  he  entered  upon  the  poiTeilion  An  allowance  was  in- 
•deed  made  to  him  of  a  certain  fum  by  the  proprietor ;  but  this  allowance 

did 


ofStronfaY  and  Eday.  403 

.  There  arc  in  this  diftrift  one  farm  of  8q  L  rent,  four  of  a- 
tout  60 1.,  eight  of  about  30  I.  yearly  rent :  The  reft  arc  each 
laboured  by  one  plough,  rent  from  5  I.  to  8 1.  In  fonie  inftan- 
ces,  two  or  more  tenants  join  to  make  Oiie  plough  to  labour 
their  fmall  farms ;  and  ther^  are  many  fmali  pendicl^Si  par- 
ticularly in  the  iiland  of  Eday,  the  pofTefTors  of  which,  in- 
ftead  of  uGng  a  plough,  delve  the  whole  of  their  fmall  farms 
with  the  fyade ;  and  even  the  harrow  is  frequently  dragged 
by  thefe  tenants  or  by  their  wives  or  their  children. 

The  preceding  narrative  will  fliow  the  infant  ftate  of  im- 
provements in  agriculture  within  this  diftri£t,  and  that  few 
and  feeble  attempts  have  hitbertp  been  made  to  improve  the 
foil*. 

3  F  2  With 

did  not  exceed  one  third  of  the  ezpcnce  incurred  by  this  removal  of  the  farm 
houfes.  The  grais  rent  ii  about  40 1.  yearly.  Thus  hath  this  tenant,  in  a 
very  fpiriud  manner,  during  the  currency  of  a  fliort  leafe,  expended  a  conii* 
derable  iiim  for  hit  own  interim  accommodatioOi  and  for  the  permanent  beoc* 
^t  of  the  £ul^. 


*  An  enquiry  into  the  caufes  which  contributed  to  fruftrate  fome  of  thofe 
Mrhich  were  made,  particularly  by  Mr  Balfour,  (from  patriotic,  it  is  believed, 
more  than  felfifh  motive?,)  might  be  interefting  and  ufeful,  if  the  inquiry 
was  made  by  one  duly  qualified  for  the  tallc  :  but  ss  there  1%  little  probability, 
at  prefent,  that  this  will  engage  the  attention  offuch  an  one,  unfkilled  and 
unexperienced  ae  the  writer  may  be  held,  he  will  prefume  on  the  liberty  to 
mention  briefly  fuch  as  appear  to  him  to  have  operated  in  (his  way  :  T^,  Tlie 
fubje^s  fcledled  for  improvement  Were  of  a  poor  quality;  fuch,  it  is  appre- 
hended, require  ikilful  management,  great  experience,  and  no  little  ex« 
pence  to  render  fuccefsful  any  attempts  tp  improve  them  to  advantage.  Mr 
Balfour  was,  indeed,  an  experienced  merchant,  an  intelligent,  pattiotic,  and  - 
moft  hofpitable  gentleman ;  but,  although,  he  had  occafionally  pafTed  through 
many  counties  in  Britain,  and  had  been  in  other  parts  of  Furope,  yet  it 
will  be  admitted,  that  he  could  not  rank  as  a  practical  farmer.  Bcfidcs,  he 
lived  in  the  town  of  Kirkwall,  at  about  15  miles  diftancc  by  foa  from  the  pla- 
ces in  S(ronfay  where  his  improvements  were  carried  on.  2.//v,  The  labour- 
ing 


404  Statijlical  Account 

With  a  view  to  guard  againft  difappointments  in  reference 
to  agricultural  improveinentS)  to  communicate  the  fuccefs 
of  experiments,  and  to  remedy  certain  inconveniences  to 
which  this  diftrifb  is  liable  by  its  local  circumftances }  the 
principal  farmers  in  the  ifland  of  Stronfay,  moft  chearfidly 
concurred  to  form  thcmfelves  into  a  fociety  ;  and  they  accor- 
dingly did  form  and  conflitute  the  fociety  of  farnoers  in  Stron-> 
fay,  about  eighteen  months  ago,  to  which  almoft  all  the  far- 
mers in  the  ifland  have  thought  ptoper  to  accede.  Ifab  fo- 
ciety agreed  to  fuch  bye-laws  as  they  judged  neceflary  for  re- 
gulating their  future  procedure.  They  rcfolvcd,  that  fmall 
fums  (hould  be  contributed  annually  by  the  members,  who 
were  ranked  in  four  different  clafies,  according  to  the  extent 

of 


Ing  inftniments  which  he  adopted  were  different  froith  thofe  ufed  in  this  i- 
iland.  The  inhabiunts,  like  all  others  whe  have  little  intercoorfe  with  itran* 
gersy  were  averfe  to  innovations,  and  dci|it(cd  a  mode  of  farming  diifereDC  ift 
fo;ne  refpeds  from  that  to  which  they  and  their  progenitors  had  immemorially 
been  inured.  The  general  opinion  of  the  inhabitants,  it  is  natural  to  conjec- 
ture, had  its  weight  with  Mr  Balfour*s  fervancs,  all  of  whom,  being  natives 
of  Stronfay,  except  the  grieves  or  overfeers,  foon  manifefted  an  averfion  to 
vie  implements  of  agriculture  different  from  thofe  with  which  they  had  been 
acquainted  from  their  infancy.  Accordingly,  thelc  improvements  were  not 
carried  on  with  fuch  a  degree  of  induftry  and  perfeverance  as  could  rcafona- 
bly  be  fupofed  to  fecure  fuccels.  3^/y,  The  attempts  made  were  merely  to 
laifegrain,  for  which  purpofe,  the  manure  was  found  fcanty.  Sea- weeds 
were  the  only  manure  a  fed  on  Linksnefs.  When  the  feafons,  therefore,  were 
unfavourable,  or  if  but  Uttie  of  this  article  happened  to  be  caft  alhore,  the 
crops  were  nqt  produAive.  In  other  places,  where  little  or  no  fea-weeds 
could  be  got,  horfe  dung,  mixed  with  green  fods  or  turf,  was  the  only  fubftl- 
tute.  ' 

The  fmall  quantity  of  this  manure  which  could  be  procured  from  a  new 
farm,  behoved  greatly  to  retard  the  progrefs  of  improvement  of  a  foil  fn  poor 
In  quality  as  above  difcribed.  Another  obftrudion  to  its  melioration,  was  an 
ill  judged  anxiety  to  co'me  as  near  as  poffible  to  the  general  practice  in  Ork- 
ney, of  keeping  £om  fields  twdcr  b«ar  and  oat  crops  alternately  to  equal  pro* 
portioQi  for  cTcr, 


ofStronfay  and  Edaj^  4o£ 

of  the  farm  they  poflefied,  which  conftituted  four  difierent 
rates.  It  is  propofed,  that  thefe  fums  (hall  raife  and  become 
a  fund,  for  defraying  the  neceflary  expences  of  ftated  quar- 
terly meetings  of  the  fociety ;  and^  after  ten  years  accumu- 
lation^  (hall  be- a  fund  alfo  for  the  relief  of  fuch  widqws  and 
orphans  of  the  members  as  may  be  left  in  indigent  circum« 
ftances  ;  and  that  in  proportion  to  the  fates  contributed  by 
their  deceafed  husbands  or  fathers  refpeflively.  The  fociecy 
eftabliihed  certain  regulations  with  Tefpe£l  to  herding  black 
cattle,  (heep,  fwine,  &c.  They  took  the  ftate  of  the  crop 
of  the  iiland  under  con£deration»  afoertained  the  prices  at 
which  they  judged  the  difierent  forts  of  vi£hial  ought  to  feU» 
during  the  quarter  fubfequent  to  «ach  of  their  meetings,  ac- 
cording to  their  knowledge  and  the  beft  infcnrmation  which 
they  could  procure  \  and  the  members  agreed  to  fell  what 
they  could  fpare  at  lower  rates  in  Orkney  than  they  could 
obtain  for  it  from  other  places  in  Scotland.  The  fuccefs  of 
fuch  experiments  in  agriculture  as  had  been  made  by  the 
members,  was  reported  to  tlie  fociety,  &c.  This  fociety  can^ 
not  entertain  a  doubt  of  their  obtaining  the  apprc^ation  of, 
and  all  fuitable  encouragement  from  the  public,  and  alfo  from 
thofe  of  this  diftrict,  whofe  patrimonial  intereft  may  be  e-> 
vehtually  promoted  by  the  attainment  of  the  obje£ls  which 
the  fociety  have  in  view. 

A  few  hints  for  promoting  agricultural  improvements  in 
this  diftriA,  in  conjun£lion  with  fome  attempts  lately  made 
by  the  tenants,  as  above  fpecified,  fall  now  to  be  fubmitted  to 
'  the  public  eye  \  and,  it  is  humbly  prefumed,  that  the  comfort 
and  emolument  of  all  ranks  in  this  diftrifl:  would  be  promo- 
ted, and  the  intereft  of  the  public  mod  eifedlually  fecured, 
by  adopting  the  following  regulations : 

'A 


4o6  Statijtical  Account 

\fl^  That  the  heritors  be  at  the  expence  of  putting  the  farm 
houfes  in  good  repair,  and  that  they  give  leafes  of  theii  lands 
to  their  tenants,  at  reafonable  rents,  for  three  times  ninete;en 
years,  or  for  certain  loug  periods. 

idly^  That  the  tenants  receive  the  farm  houfes  on  valua- 
tion, and  become  bound  to  deliver  them  in  like  manner  at 
the  expiry  of  their  leafes,  on  adequate  payment  made  to  them 
for  melioration,  or  fimilar  payment  by  them  to  the  heritor^ 
in  cafe  of  deterioration. 

3i//y,  That  inclofures,  to  a  certain  extent,  on  a  plan  an«> 
nually  agreed  to  by  the  heritor  and  tenant,  be  buili  by  the 
tenant ;  the  value  of  which  to  be  reimburfed  by  the  heritor 
at  the  conclufion  of  the  iirft  period  of  nineteen  years,  fo  that 
the  tenant  may  be  enabled  to  proceed  with  additional  inclo> 
fures,  or  fuch  other  improvements  as  may  have  been  fpecified 
in  the  leafe. 

J^thly^  That  during  the  fecond  period  of  nineteen  years,  a 
certain  additional  rent,  about  ten  per  cent,  of  the  money  fa 
advanced  by  the  heritor,  be  paid  annually  by  the  tenant  \  and 
that  this  incrcafe  of  rent  be  doubled  during  the  ihird  period* 
5/^/^,  That  no  allowance  be  made  by  the  heritor  for  any 
expence  laid  out  by  the  tenant,  in  building  inclofures,  or  other 
improvements,  during  the  two  laft  periods  of  the  leafe. 

6thly^  That  a  fpecific  extent  of  arable  and  grafs  grounds 
(hould  be  afcertained  by  fkiUful  men,  to  be  competent  for 
maintaining,  a  fub-tenant's  family,  on  the  fuppoGtion  that  the 
fame  is  managed  by  him,  without  the  afiiftance  of  the  prin- 
cipal tenant ;  and  fuch  extent  alioted  accordingly  to  all  fa- 
miiies  of  this  defcription. 

7/A/y,  That  one  half,  or  thereby,  of  the  before*  mentioned 
extent  of  arable  and  grafs  ground,  fhould  be  alioted  for  a 
cottar's  or  a  boll-man's  family,  each  of  whom  may  be  con- 
fidered,  for  more  than  one  half  of  the  year,  as  a  daily  fcrvant 

of 


bf  Stronfay  and  Eday*  407 

It)  tile  principal  tenant|  by  whofe  ploughs  thfiiis  fmall  farms 
fliould  be  laboured. 

8/A/y,  That  in  all  refpefts,  except  thofc  above  mentioned, 
the  ftipulations  be  left  to  be  mutually  condefccndcd  on  by 
the  principal  tenants,  and  by  their  fubtenants  and  cottars,  or 
boll-men,  refpe£lively. 

gthly^  That  heritors,  who  incline  to  encourage  manufac- 
tures, and  increafe  the  population  of  their  country,  may  re- 
ferve  in  their  own  pofleflion  fome  fmall  farm  or  parcel  of 
ground  on  their  eftates,  bed  adapted  to  the  purpofe,  to  let  in 
very  long  leafcs,  or  to  feu  out  to  be  houfes .  and  gardens  fot 
fliop-keepers,  kelp*makers,  mechanics,  fi(hers,  day-labourers, 
&c.  Such  families  might  thus  furnifli  a  ready  market  for 
butcher  meat  or  othdr  provifions  raifed  by  the  neighbouring 
tenapts,  or  their  dependents. 

By  adhering  to  thefe  regulations,  the  heritors,  or  their  heirs, 
at  the  expiry  of  57  years,  would  find  their  eftates  in  a  high 
degree  of  cultivation ;  would  have  an  additional  rent  well 
paid  ;  a  certain  proportion  thereof,  one  third  or  thereby,  in«* 
clofed,  and  the  beft  fecurity  afforded  againft  lofs  by  bank- 
rupt tenants,  which  is  found  to  be  a  great  dedu£^ion  from 
the  rental  in  many  diftridts  in  Scotland,'  with  an  increafed 
price  for  fuch  articles  of  rent  as  might  be  ftipulated  to  be 
J>aid  to  the  heritors  in  kind. 

All  thefe  advantages,  without  any  expence  to  the  heritorsj 
Would  doubtlefs  contribute,  in  a  high  degree,  to  the  comfort 
of  the  tenants, and  of  their  dependents  \  and  alfo  to  advance 
ihe  interell  of  the  community:!:. 

Rental 

\  On  this  plan,  as:nculcure,  manufadures,  and  fiiherief,  in  their  fcTeral  de- 

fartmcnts,  would  mutually  fupport  and  cherilh  each  other,  to  much  greater 

^  adTaatage 


4IO  Stutiftical  Account 


Scots.        Sterlitlg; 

L.  8.  d.      L     s.    d. 

The  meil  of  oat  meal    of 

ditto  weight,  at            -            - 

4  0  0    <)r  0    6    S 

The  J>arrel  of  butter,  which . 

contains  about  €o  pints. 

, 

and  weighs  200  weight. 

b  valued  at            -            • 

20  0  0    or   f     13    4 

The  lispund  of  butter,  which 

is  nearly  2  (lone  weight. 

Is  valued  at              -              - 

200      or  •    3  4^ 

The  barrel  of  oil,  which  con- 

: 

tains  the  fame  quantity, 

• 

and  is  the  fame  weight  as 

a  barell  of  butter,  is  valu- 

ed at 

16  0  e    or    I     6  % 

The  lispund  of  oil  is  the 

fame  weight  as  a  lispund 

of  butter,  and  valued  at 

I   12  0    or    0    2  S 

The  prefent  grofs  rental  of  Stronfay  and  Eday,  compre- 
hending fnperiority,  property,  and  ftipend,  amounts  to  only 
746 1.  78.  3d.  Sterling,  a  fmall  part  of  which  is  paid  by  fti- 
pulation  between  fome  of  the  heritors  and  their  tenants,  for 
liberty  to  the  latter  to  burn  kelp  and  to  fell  it  on  their  own 
account. 

The  advance  of  rent,  in  thefe  united  pariflies,  during  a  pe- 
riod of  no  lefs  than  140  years,  appears  inconfiderable,  but 
this  is  accounted  for  by  a  very  great  proportion  of  the  gro£i 
rental  in  1653,  being  paid  in  kind  ;  fome  part  of  which  hath 
been  converted  into  money  by  the  heritors  to  the  tenants, 
about  40  years  ago,  and  fuch  part  as  is  (till  paid  in  kind,  cal- 
culated at  the  then  felling  prices  of  the  country,  which  did 
not  much  exceed  the  valuation  prices  in  1^53. 

Ther* 


of  Stronjhy  and  Edap  411 

There  are,  excla&re  of  Lord  Dundas,  thirteen  h^itors,  of 
whom  fix  have  a  large  extent,  and  feven  have  a  fmall  extent 
of  property  lyinj;  in  this  dtfttid.  There  are  no  refiding  heri- 
tors except  the  heirs  of  Patrick  Fea  of  Kerbufter,  whofe  pro- 
perty, at  his  deceafe,  fell  to  be  divided  equally  amongft  his 
three  daughter^. 

State  of  Population^  Parochial  Rgcords^  isfc. — The  ancient 
ftate  of  the  parifli  of  Eday  cannot  now  be  afcertained  Ivith 
exafbnefs,  as  records  of  an  old  date  for  that  parifb  are  not  to 
be  found*  Records  for  the  parifli  of  Stronfay,  from  the  year 
1673  and  downwards,  with  chafms  of  feveral  years  at  differr 
ent  periods,  in  a  decayed  ftate,  as  may  be.  fuppoTed,  are  yqt 
in  exiftence. 

From  thefe  it  appears,  thsft  during  a  pi^aod  of  20  years 
fubfequent  to  1673,  the  number  of  baptifms  in  tlie  parifli  of 
Stronfay  yfroA  382,  of  marriages  109,  Tlyit  during  20  yeais 
fubfequent  to  1743,  the  number  of  baptifms  was  £oi,  viz,  of 
males  309,  of  females  292. 

In  the  united  p^riflies  of  Stronlay  and  £day,  during  a  pe-* 
Ifiod  of  14  years  fubfequent  to  X779»  when  ih^  prefect  in- 
cumbent was  admitted,  the  numbers  of  baptifms,  marriages, 
andjbnriak,  in  the  feparate  year^.of  that  period  ^'ere  as,  fol- 
low: 


jG  2  Table 


4^* 


^tatf/IUai  ^a^mi 


SlRONSAT 

Edat; 

BaptlCiDi.  Mafz:ia|;e».  Buriaiig 

Baptifm& 

Man'iag;cs« 

Burials.  Grofs 

'  M,    F, 

Af.    /■. 

amouii<; 

1780    11     13 

5 

4 

8      14 

il 

1781    18     10 

7 

»7 

11      5 

30 

X78»  ■  ^3    13 

6 

17 

II  •  TO 

n 

Jj;«J     5^     »    . 

5 

j6 

w    s 

.1^ 

•J784    13    ?t 

6 

x8 

.  •-«    7 

13 

I7«5      7      6 

6 

AJ 

9     9 

.    6 

3786    11    |8 

6 

fti 

.  16      IX 

16  B.  M.   B. 

.  __  ■ 

•  -  -  ^  ■    _ 

■*^    J*'*  /4'  »«4 

1/87      7-    i» 

?* 

it9 

8.     9, 

8 

I7S8    11      8 

10 

z8 

II      5 

« 

:f789    X3      9 

4 

J5 

17     14 

10 

1790      7.    i» 

7 

^7 

7    " 

13 

?79i     17    I* 

4 

16 

10      4 

IE 

179a    17    lb  ' 

8 

1^ 

*     7      9- 

'     9- 

14 

^79*    XI    »a 

4    • 

16      . 

8     9  '■ 

1.4.. 

sr 

..  . 

_^     mT  tn  9a£ 

*—    ^^yi  7{^  3QP 

Total 

amount  173  153 

*9» 

aji 

143  "4 

6r 

x;9 

h^».  MIS  Y  »4  A3A 

*^~*  5VJ  *y*  43t 

Nombcr  erf  houfes'  and  of  Ibub,  m  the  unttei  parifhes  of 
Stronfay  and  Eday,  at  different  periods^  as  under : 


In  Stronsat  f. 

Houfes.  Souls.        Maxried. 
i%6i  170 

177*  X015  160 

1781  182        819 

1787  178        887 


In  Edat. 

Houfes.  Souls. 


143      675 
126      601 


f  The  number  of  houfes,  fouls,  an4  married  in  the  parifli  of  Stronfaj,  in 
the  years  1761,  and  1772,  are  ftated  in  the  report  of  certain  of  the  pariihion- 
ers ;  but  the  numbers  in  X781,  and  J  787.  were  taken  up  by  the  clerks  of  the 
pariihes  under  the  minifier'k  infpedion. 


of  Sirtrnfay  and  E'day.  41  ^ 

Of  the  above  mentioned  number  of  foub  m  the  paiifli  of 

Stronfay  in  1 7  87,  there  were ; 

I 

Year*.     , 

From    I  to  lo  —  1*3 

—  10—  ao  —  10 1 

00  — 30—  57 

30  -^  40  — —  105 

—  4^—50——  97 
rr*—  50  —  60 ¥    7$ 

—  60  —  70  —    8f 
71  —  80 37 

—  80  —  90  — —     9 

ToUlNiiali«r  887    As  ibove  (Uted. 

'  O^rvflrfw.— Daring  the  period  of  feven  years,  preceding 
fhe  prcfent  year  1794^  the  number  of  baptifms,  marriages, 
dad  burials^  in  thefe  united  pari(hes,  appear,  by  table  (irft,  to 
kave  been  nearly  cqpal  to  the  mifnbers  refpedively  during 
the  Rke  period  of  years,  preceding  1787,  fo  that,  had  the 
emigrations  (which  are  not  few,)  from  thcfe  parifhes  to  other 
iflands  in  Orkney,  or  to  places  more  remote,  been  as  few  in 
the  laft  feven  years^  as  during  the  .preceding  feven  years,  the 
populatien  would  be  nearly  the  fame  now,  as  it  was  feven 
years  ago ;  but,  from  certain  regulations  or  pradices,  lately 
introduced,  unfavourable  to  the  increafe  of  population,  and 
to  the  inaprovement  of  the  foil  of  thefe  pariOies,  there  is 
ground;  to  apprehend^  that  the  population  is  decreafing,  and 
will  continue  to  decreafe,  if  fuitable  remedies  be  ^t  fpeediiy 
applied,  particularly  with  refpe£l  to  fuel  or  peats ;  and  the 
partial  increafe  of  fervants  wages. 

Fue/y  Servanii  Wagei,.  isl'c. — The  inhabitants  of  thefe  pa- 
fiflies  have  ufcd  peats  only,  as  their  firings  for  time  imme- 
morial ; 


414  Statistical  Account 

inorial  J  in  which  necclTiry  of  life  they  have  been  grefltif  re- 
ftricted  by  the  proprietors  of  moflcs  in  both  parifhes,  as  to 
quantity,  during  the  laft  period  of  fevcn  years.  Notwith- 
ftanding,  there  remains  an  inexhauftiblc  fund  of  that  article 
in  this  diftria ;  at  lead,  conje£larc  itfclf  is  at  a  lofs  to  af. 
certain  the  number  of  centuries  which  the  moffes  in  the  i-p 
Hands  of  Stronfay  and  Eday  would  fupply  their  inhabitantt 
with  fuch  annual  quantities  of  peats  as  they  were  accliftom- 
cd  to  provide  for  their  families,  before  fuch  reftriftions  were 
impofed  §. 

§  The  proprietors  of  peat  tnofs  id  the  Hland  of  Edsy  have  been  pleafed^ 
for  fome  years  laft  pad,  with  a  view  to  fave  their  mofTet,  to  prevent  the 
ineaneft  of  the  inhabitants,  their  own  fmall  tenants,  fob-tenants,  cottars,  or 
del  vers  of  their  little  fpots  of  ground,  to  boil  certain  quantities  of  what  the)[ 
call  fait,  (of  a  mean  quality,  it  mud  be  acknowledged,]  over  th^  only  fire 
burnt  in  their  cottages,  wliich  fire  is  ufed  alfo  for  all  culinary  purpoA».  Tlie 
whole  quantities  of  peats  to  fupply  which  fires,  are  fo  inconfiderable  at  to  bs 
carried  home  by  the  indignent  tenanu  of  thefe  cottages,  on  their  backs  h| 
creels  o£  cailes  made  with  ilraw  \  the  extra  quantity  required  for  the  faid  pnr- 
poTe  mud  be  fmall  indeed !  This  fait,  fuch  as  It  was,  ufed  to  be  carried  ii^ 
fmall  parcels  by  the  makers  of  it  ts  other  neighbouring  illands,  where  they 
received  from  the  pooreft  of  the  inhabitants,  who  covld  not  afford  to  pnrchafe 
fait  of  a  good  quality,  equal' quantities  of  meal  for  the  ialt  which  they 
brought.  By  fuch  traffic,  the  poor  people  of  Eday  procured,  in  a  very  labor 
riotts  way,  a  fcanty  fupply  of  meal  for  their  familita  in  the  winter  feaion, 
when  the  ftormy  weather  did  not  permit  their  going  a  fiftiing,  on  which 
bufiDcfs  many  in  this  ifland  depend  chiefly  for  daily  bread.  This  reftric- 
tion  has  induced  fome,  and,  if  not  removed,  or  fome  other  reoiedy  profvided^ 
will  probably  induce  many  more  of  thefe  poor  families  to  migrate  to  othcc 
•Ilan48,  if  not  to  other  countries. 

The  whole  mofles  in  the  ifland  of  Stronfay  belong  to  the  proprietor  of 
RotheJioIm,  from  which  mofles  the  whole  inhabitants  of  this  ifland,  for 
time  immemorial,  have  fupplied  their  families  with  peatt,  upon  making  finall 
acknowledgements,  in  money  or  other  articles,  to  the  tenant  of  Rothesholffl* 
This  prance  continued  to  the  mutual  fatisfaAion  of  the  inhabitanta,  and  c/ 

<he 


of  Stronfay  and  Edny.  4 1 5 

HorfeSi  Black  Cattle^  t5fc. — ^Thc  horfcs  in  this  diftrid,  and 
through  Orkney  in  general,  arc  of  a  hardy  nature  and  fmail 
fizc,  the  largeft  are  feldom  above  14  hands  high ;  great  num- 
bers of  them,  when  only  one  year  old,  arc  brought  from  the 

neighbouring 

the  tenant  of  faid  lands,  (without  any  interference  of  the  proprietor,)  nntil 
the  laft  general  eledion  of  memben  of  Parliament,  when  the  eledion  for 
the  county  of  Orkney  happened,  (unfortunately  for  a  great  number  of  the 
inhabitants  of  this  ifland,)  to  be  difputed  ;  for  in  confcquence  thereof,  fuck 
tenants  of  the  fuccefsful  candidate,  as  live  in  this  ifland,  and  the  tenants  of 
his  political  friends,  by  the  ezpreis  order  of  th^  proprietor  of  Rothcbholm  to 
his  tenant,  were  ftridly  prohibited  from  calling  in,  and  leading  peats  from 
bis  mofles  on  any  terms  whatever.  Thefe  tenants,  when  laid  under  this  in- 
tolerable hardibip,  coafcious  that  they  had  not  done  any  thing  to  merit  this 
gentleman's  difpleafure,  thought  it  exceedingly  hard,  and  even  unjufl,  that  they 
Ihould  be  fo  fevcrely  punilhed  for  offences  of  which  they  were  not  guilty ; 
did  ventare,  notwithftanding  the  forefaid  order  and  prohibition,  after  pre- 
^rioufly  haviog  made  offisr  to  the  tenant  of  Rothesholm  of  the  uTual  acknow- 
geoientt,  to  perfift  in  their  pofleifion  of  the  faid  mofles,  by  cafting,  winning, 
and  lea<fing  peats  for  the  nfe  of  their  families,  according  to  cuftoin,  and  an- 
cient pnidice.  But  this  conduA  of  thefe  tenants  occafioned  a  law  fnit  before 
the  Court  of  Seffion,  which  was  lately  decided  in  favours  of  the  proprietor 
of  the  mofs,  at  whofe  infUnce  it  had  been  ralfcd. 

This  reftridion  and  deciiion,  will  foon  be  found  a  great  caufe  of  diminifh- 
jBg  the  inhabitants  of  this  ifland,  as  the  tenants  above  mentioned,  and  their 
cottars,  cannot  live  without  fuch  a  neceifary  article  as  file  ;  and  their  circum- 
ftanccs  in  general,  are  not  fuch  as  to  enable  them  to  purchafe  and  carry  coals 
from  England  or  from  the  Frith  of  Forth,  to  fupply  their  families,  and  the 
femilies  of  their  fub-tenants  and  cottars,  with  firing. 

Moreover,  an  improper  pradice  hath  crept  into  this  diflrl(d,  of  not  only 
increafing  the  wages  of  unmarried  men  fervaots  and  boys,  employed  in  farm 
work,  to  more  than  three  times  the  amount  of  what  they  were  fatibfied  with 
about  thirty  years  ago ;  but  certain  portions  of  land  have  been  given  to  many  • 
•f  them  by  their  maflers,  from  which  they  have  reaped  crops  of  visual, 
which  they  have  fold  for  feveral  years  paft,  after  defraying  the  cxpence  of 
labour,  at  fuch  foms,  as,  with  other  wages  and  pcrquintcs,  received  by  them 
anntially  frpai  their  mafters,  hath  arlfen  to,  and  In  fome  Inilances  exceeded 

t>xc 


4i6  iSiatiJliiul  Account 

neighbouring  county  of  Caidinefs,  to  the  annual  fair  at  Kirk- 
wall in  Orkney^  in  the  month  of  Auguft,  which  lafU  about 
ten  days  :  To  this  fair^  not  only  horfes  from  Caithneb,  but  cat* 
tie,  and  all  other  faleaUe  commodities,  are  brought  from  the 
diiFerent  iflands  in  Orkneys  the  annual  bufinefs  of  all  ranks 
is  fettled,  horfes,  and  fuch  otHer  articles,  as  country  people 
require,  are  purchafed  and  carried  home  with  them  to  the 
iflands  of  their  refpedive  habitations. 

TTic  beft  of  the  Caithnefs  ftaigs,  or  year  old  Jiorfes,  have, 
for  fevcral  years  paft,  fold  for,  from  6\.  to  7I.  The  beft  work 
oxen  of  the  Orkney  breed,  fot  41.^  milch  cows  at  3L,  flieep 
at  6s.,  fwine  at  los.^  geeiie  u.  3d.,  hens  6d.  each,  ail  Ster- 
ling money,  in  the  town  of  Kirkwall,  which  is  the  only  mar- 
ket place  to  whicK  butcher  meat,  and  other  vivers,  can  be 
brought  from  this  diftri£t,  and  the  other  North  ifles,  and 
£a(t  parts  of  Pomona,  or  the  mainland  of  Orkney* 

Animals  of  inferior  fize,  of  the  forts  abore  mentioned,  are 
fold  at  proportionably  lower  prices.  There  are  in  this  dif- 
trifk  to  the  number  of  about 

Horfei.  Black  Cattk.  Sheep.  Swiae.  Gee£e.  Titd-ox  carts.  BiMte. 
In  Stronfay.    icx)  900  3000    joo      700  7,j  $$ 

In  £d»y.         Iio  '.       300  2000    too      xao  i  34 

of  (lock.         6m  xooo         5000     400      8ao  3»  8y 

the  amount  of  what  a  cottar  or  boUmao,  and  his  wife  can  earn  annuaUj  for 
the  fupport  oi  themfclves  and  family  of  young  children.  This  injudicious 
pra  Aice,  if  perMed  in,  cannot  fall  of  being  a  mighty  difcouragement  of  mar- 
riage and  of  population ;  but  it  may  be  rediGcd,  in  a  great  meafure,  by  the 
united  exertions  of  the  tenants,  or  focicty  of  farmers  in  Stronfay,  with  the 
concurrence  of  the  heritors,  by  adopting  the  plan  explained  under  the  6th 
article. 

The  before  mentioned  grievances,  under  which  many  of  the  parifliiancrs 
labour,  are  prejudicial  to  the  general  intereft  of  the  diftrift  ;  and  to  the  com- 
munity at  large,  it  is  prefumeable,  therefore,  that  adequate  remedies  will  be 
applied,  as  foon  as  circaaillances  will  permit  the  neceflary  regulations  to  take 


of  Stronfay  and  Eday.  4 1 7^ 

Miherals^-^h  vein  of  lead  was  difcovered,  many  years  ago, 
ion  the  cftate  of  Huip.  (John  Balfour,  Efcj;  prefent  member 
of  Parliament  for  Orkney,  is  landholder.)  By  order  of  Mr 
Thomas  Balfour  deceafed,  the  late  proprietor,  and  uncle  to  * 
the  forcfaid  John  Balfour,  fpecimens  of  ore  from  this  vein 
were  dug  up,  and  fent  to  be  examined  by  people  of  Ikill ;  but 
the  report  feems  not  to  have  been  of  a  flattering  nature,  iat ' 
no  attempts  have  hitherto  been  made  to  work  it. 

A  minerai  Springs  (or  rather  three  adjacent  fprings  of  Chaly* 
beate  water,  all  of  diffetent  degrees  of  ftrength,)  is  to  be 
found  among  the  rocks,  on  the  £aft  coaft  of  the  ifland  o^ 
Stronfay.  Hie  water,  clear  as  chryftal,  not  unpleafant,  is 
full  of  fixed  air,  a^  may  "be  eafily  difcovered  by  any  who  drink 
fome  glafles  of  it ;  for  they  will  foon  find  themfelves  afl[e£^ed 
in  the  fame  way,  as  if  they  had  drank  fome  fine  brtfk  bottled 
froall  bear  *. 

Vol.  XV.  3  H  Ecdefiajkal 

•  This  fpring  \%  called  the  Well  of  Kildioguie.  Tradition  fays,  that  it  wai  ^ 
iield  in  fuch  high  repute  when  the  Orkney  ifland.s  belonged  to  the  Crown  of  Den-^ 
mark,  (above  three  hundred  ycaisago,)  that  people  of  the  fix  il  rank,  camefrpm 
Denmark  and  Norway  todrlnkthe  waters.  Towards  the  fouth  eaft,  at  about  two 
milcB  diftanqe,  the  greateft  part  of  the  way  confifts  of  a  flat  fand  along  the  fea 
ihorc ;  there  is  a  place  called  Ouiyidn,  on  the  rocks  of  which,  that  fpecics  of  fea* 
weed  called  dulfe,  is  to  be  found  in  abundance ;  whick  Weed,  is  confidered  by 
many  .to  be  a  delicious  and  wholefome  morfel.  The  drinking  of  thefc  f)vaters,thd 
moderate  exercife  of  walking  over  two  miles  of  dry  level  ground,  gathering  and 
eating  dnlfc  on  the  rocks,  they  being  expofed  to  a  wholefome  Iharp  fc» 
breeze,  from  Whatever  quarter  the  wind  could  blow ;  this  happy  combination 
of  circumftances  was  found  fuch  a  fovercign  remedy  for  the  numberlefs  com- 
plaints of  thofe,  who  in  ancient  times  rcforted  to  this  famous  watering  place, 
that  it  gave  rife  to  a  proverb  which  is  ftill  retained  in  this  ifl:ind,  vii.  «  The 
well  of  Ktldinguie,  and  the  dulfe  of  Guiyidn,  can  cure  all  maladies  except' 
black  death." — That  is,  can  cure  all  maladies  which  are  not  abfolvtely  incu- 
rable* 

ThU 


41 8  Statijlical  Jccount 

Eccleftajlical  State^  Ancient  and  Modern, — About  the  tiiftcfof 
the  Reformation^  there  were  five  parifh  kirks  in  tliis  diftrift* 
Three  in  the  ifland  of  Stronfay,  dedicated  to  the  Virgin  Ma- 
ry, to  St*  Peter  and  St.  Nicholas  ;  the  fonrth  ]n  the  ifland 
of  Eday,  dedicated  alfo  to  the  Virgin  Mary  ;  and  the  fifth 
in  the  ifle  of  Fairy,  to  what  faint  dedicated,  tradition  gives 
tio  information. 
I  There  were  alfo,  in  the  ifland  of  Stronfay,  at  lead  four 

I  chapels,  one  of  which  is  called  St.  Margaret's  kirk ;    two 

I  chaples  in  the  fmall  ifle  of  Papa,  dedicated  to  St.  Nicholas 

and  to  St.  Bride  refpeflivcly.  St.  Nichola's  chapel  was  a!- 
moft  entire  twelve  years  ago  \  the  dimenfions  within  walls 
15  feet  by  12  v  the  quire,  7  feet  by  9 ;  this  quire  isTKrovered 
with  a  corhplete  (lone  arch,  but  the  chapel  liath'been  lately 
demoUAied  by  the  tenant,  in  order  that  he  with  the  ftoncs 
of  it  might  build  a  new  barn.  St.  Bride's  chapel  and  Quire, 
now  in  ruins,  are  nearly  of  the  fame  dimenfions  as  tkofe  of 
St.  Nicholas.  About  half  way  between  thefe  chapels,  there 
is»  on  a  rifing  ground,  called  the  Earl's-know,  the  appearance 
of  old  ruins  and  graves ;  one  of  which  graves,  evidently 
defined  by  two  ftones,  one  at  the  head,  the  other  at  the  feet, 
ia  eight  feet  and  a  half  long ;.  tills  grave  was  dug  up  to  the 
dccpnefs  of  about  fix  feet,  in  the  month  of  July  1792  ;  the 
ftones  at  the  head   and  feet,  which  appeared  afbout  a  foot 

above 


This  fpring  is  at  tbcr  diftance  of  about  half  a  mile  from  the  niinifter'«  maiifr, 
in  a  pleafant  healthy  fituation.  There  is  a  large  commodious  houfe  in  the 
neighbourhood,  built  about  forty  yeari  ago,  for  the  accommodation  of  agent- 
lemao  with  a  large  family,  one  of  the  heritors,  and  at  that  time  miniflcr  of 
this  f  ariih  ;  but  his  heirs  have  removed  from  thii  ifland.  This  houfe,  there- 
fore, HHght  be  eafily  6tted  up,  an^  would  be  found  very  commodious  for  frtf- 
bathing  or  water  drinking  quartern,  for  thofe  whofe  ccnftitutxons  or  incUnzr 
tions  require  the  application  of  fuch  harmlcfs,  fafe,  and  ufeful  remedies. 


ofStronfay  and  Eday.  419 

ftbove  the  furfiacey  reached  to  the  bottom  of  the  grave.  Many 
human  bones  of  an  ordinary  fize  were  found,  and,  moreover, 
fragments  of  a  human  (kull,  and  of  a  lower  jaw  bone,  with 
the  cafe  of  teeth,  which  were  pcrfe£lly  found,  and  fragments 
of  thigh  bones ;  thefc  were  all  of  an  enormous  fize,  and  af- 
forded a  convincing  pro(tf  that  the  body  hurried  there  had 
required  a  gnive  of  the  dimenfions  above  fpecified.  There 
is  an  old  chapel  in  ruins  on  the  ifland  of  Ed:iy,  and  one  in 
each  of  the  pafturc  iJles,  called  Linga,.  Meikle,  and  Aulkerry  \ 
in  this  laft,  there  are  alfo  ruins  of  what  feems  to  have  been 
a  fmall  houfe,  which  retains  the  appellation  of  the  monfcer 
houfe,  or  monk's  houfe  ;  fuch  reclufes  might  no  doubt  have 
lived  in  this  ifle,  as  there  is  plenty  of  freOi  water  in  it ;  th<; 
^iftancc,  however,  at  which  it  lies  from  the  iiland  of  Stron-. 
fay,  is  no  lefs  than  three  miles.  Thus  we  find  there .  have 
been  of  del  five  parifh  kirks,  and  at  lead  nine  chapchs  in  this 
diftrift*. 

3  Ha  The.. 

*  In  the  foimdatlon  of  the  Cathedral  kirk  of  Orkaef,  confirmed  by.Cardi-  ' 
Bal  Beaton,  on  the  application  of  Lord  Robert  Steuart,  (who  was  a  natural  uncle 
•f  Mary  Queen  of  Scots  and)  Bilhop  of  Orkney,  it  is  recited,  that  before 
that  period,  **  only  fircanou^  andas  many  chaplains,  were  ereded  in,  the  faid 
**.  -Cathedral  kirk  of  St.  Magnus  in  Orkney,  which  are  ftated  to  be  too  few, 
«  to  bear  the  kbooiy  and  incumbent  burdens  in  iinging  praifes  in  •  the  hoursj 
**  of  the  nights  and  days  in  the  iaid  kirk,  and  fpr  divine  feryice,  as  betomca 
**.  fuch  a  kirk.'*  Accordingly,  a  provoftiy,  a  arch  deaconry,  chantory,. 
chancellory,  fub-deanry  and  fub.chantory ;  likewife  leven  other  canons  and 
and  prebendars,  thirteen  chaplains,  named  vicars  of  the  ^lire,  and  fix  boys» 
wha  might  be  refpeAively  a4mic  in  fciences,  and  otherwife  qualified.  Theic 
were  of  new  ereded,  conftituted,  and  founded.  The  deed  proceeds  in  thefe 
termi :  ^  By  the  tenor  of  thir  prefents,  judges,  ftatutes,  and  ordains,  that 
•«  which  we  judge  belongs  to  every  one :  Tht/rfi,  the  provod,  Mr  Mai- 
M  colm  Halero,  batchelor  in  holy  letters,  the  prebendary  of  holy  Trinity,  and^ 
<f  vicarage  of  I^onald  Shay,  with  holding  up  the  kiik  of  Burwick.     V^  To 


4^0  Stdtiflical  AccoutU 

"  The  value  of  the  (lipend  of  this  diftrtfl,  in  1633,  was  for-f 
inerl^  dated,  the  particular  articles  then  paid,  continue  yet 
to  be  paid,  with  the  exceptions  of  fomc  vicarage  and  parfon^ 

age 

(<  the  arch-dcaeoii,  Mr  John  T»yrte,  the  arch-deacon*s  aociept  righti,  the 
*(  miniilcr  of  Birfay  and  chaplaiory  of  St.  Ollay  within  the  cathedral  kirk, 
**  with  holding  up  the  kirk  of  Harry.  3</,  To  the  chantor,  Mr  Nicol  Ha- 
«*  kro,  the  prebendary  of  Orphcr  and  vicarage  of  Stcnhoufe.  4/A,  To  the 
**  chanccltor,  Mr  Alexander  Scott,  the  prebendary  of  St.  Mary  of  Sandy  and 
"  vicarage  of  Sandy.  3/A,  To  the  trc^furer,  Sir  Steven  Culrofs,  the  parfoa- 
('  age  of  St.  Nicholas  of  StronTay  and  vicarage  of  Stronfay.  6/i^  To  the  fub- 
"  dean,  Mr  Peter  Howfton,  the  parfona^c  of  Hoy  and  vicarage  of  Wails. 
«<  7/A,  To  the  fub-chantor.  Sir  Magnus  Strange,  the  prebendary  of  St.  Colmc. 
««  8//»,  To  the  firft  prcbendar,  Sir  Thomas  Richardfon,  the  parfonage  of  Croia 
M  kick  in  Sandy.  9/^,  To  Sir  Hugh  Hiicro,  the' prebendary  of  St.  Magaua. 
<'  10^,  To  Mt  Henry  Barton,  the  chaplainry  of  St.  John  the  Evangeiifi,  it\ 
«*  the  faid  cathedral  kirk.  11A&,  To  Mr  Walter  Thorafon,  the  chaplainry 
"  of  St  Mar)'  and  vicarage  of  St.  Mary,  luif.  To  Mr  John  Maxwell,  the 
*«  chaplainry  of  St  Laurence.  Ij/A,  To  Sir  David  C.^*rillifon,  the  prebendary 
«*  of  St.  Catharine.  X4/-&,  To  Mr  Robert  Malcolmfon,  the  prebendary  of  St. 
«  Duthas.  Chaplains^ — The  l/f,  of  St.  Peter,  (hall  be  mafter  of  the  grammar 
««  fchool,  %d.  Of  St  Auguftine,  (hall  be  mafter  of  the  fong  fcbool.  Which 
«  two  mafters  ftiall  be  found  to  teach  freely  all  the  boys  of  the  qnirc  and  the 
*<  poor  wiUmg  to  be  prefcnt.  3c/,  The  bifliop**  quirifter.  4/^,  I'hc  provoil'«. 
«  5/A,  The  arch-dean's,  btb^  The  prcccntor'a.  ^ih,  The  chAocellor's.  8/i5, 
«»  The  trcafurer's.  9/A,  The  fub  dean*f  lort',  The  prebendary  of  Holy 
«  Crofs.  I  lib.  The  prebendary  of  St  Mary.  ia<A,  The  chaplain  of  St. 
<«  CJilhraine.  13M,  The  chaplam  of  Holy  Crofs.  And  every  one  of  the 
«  quirifters  ihall  have  one  lafl  of  vi&aal  and  alio  ten  merks  ScoU  money  for 
«  their  ttipend  in  the  year,  bcfides  the  daily  dlftribvtions  which  Ihatt  be  from 
«  the  rents  of  vicarage  of  the  cathedral  kirk,  and  from  the  foundation  of  on- 
««  cle  Thotpas,  bifliop  of  Orkney  and  Zetland ;  and  twelve  pounds  firom  the. 
«*  foundation  of  the  moft  illuftriops  late  Kings  of  Scotland,  James  HI.  am^ 
f*  James  IV.  paid  by  thc'bifliop  for  the  daily  maffcs  ©f  St.  Mary,  the  nufles 
««  of  the  holy  blood  in  firft  holy  day,  and  the  regimen  of  the  fecond  holy  day 
«*  though  the  whole  year.  An  inferior  fervant,  {Jacrijta^  about  holy  thing?, 
«»  fliall  ring  the  bells,  light  the  lamps,' carry  the  water  and  fire  Co  the  kirk, 
?»  Kho  ought  to  have  the  accullomed  revenue,  and  forty  IhilliDgs  from  the 

«•  ^i(hop  ; 


of  Stronfay  and  Eday.  42 1 

age  tithes  then  paid  in  kind,  which  at  diiTerent  periods  after* 
wards  M'ere  converted  into  <  money  at  low  rates,  by  mutual 
pontrads  between  tenants  or  heiitors,  on  the  one  part,  and 

miniftcrs 

**^  bilhop ;  he  (hould  be  clad  with  an  honefl  furpUce,  and  go  before  the  procef« 
^<  fion  wich  a  white  wand  after  the  manner  of  a  bedlar.  But  the  firfl  of  tho 
**  fix  boys  (hall  be  nominacc  and  fuftained  by  the  biihop.  The  a^»  By  tlM 
••  prebendar  of  Sl  Magnus.  3*/,  By  ths  prebendar  of  St.  John.  4i^,  By  th« 
«*  prebendar  of  St.  Laurence.  5/^,  By  the  prebendar  of  Sr.  Catharine.  6/£, 
f*  3y  the  prebendar  of  St.  Duthat.  And  ereiy  one  of  them  (hall  have  twenty 
**  ihiUinga  in  the  year.  They  fliall  be  uper*bearer»,  and  (hall  fing  the  re* 
<*  fponfes.  Moreover,  we  aflign  to  the  (aid  proToft,  dignities  canon*  and  pre- 
*'  bendars,  ceitain  dcfanA  lands  for  the  manfes  of  every  one  of  them  at  tho 
"  faid  cathedral  kirk.  But  our  will  is,  that  every  one  of  them,  within  three 
«  years  after  getting  peaceable  poiT^rnion  of  their  benefices,  to  build  an  honefl 
**  manfe,  according  to  the  value  of  the  fruits  of  the  benefice  in  which  he  may 
**  reft  or  fleep,  otherwife  he  (hall. not  be  judged  to  refide  among  otherf, 
"  Ukewjfe,  we  will  and  ordain  a  vicar  an  contiDual  penfion  of  ten  merkt 
"  Scots  money,  and  an  half  lall  of  vidual  every  year,  with  the  manfe  of  evc- 
<*  ry  paroch  vicarage  ercAcd  in  the  prcfcflt  foundation,  from  the  fruits  siid 
<*  emoluments  nomncd  and  impofcd  by  us  and  our  fuccclfors ;  who  (hall  be 
"  bound  to  ferve  his  cure  perfonally  by  hinifclf  as  oft  as  it  (hall  be  vacant,  if 
«  need  (ball  be.  But  the  bilhop  (hall  be  canon  cf  St.  OUay,  &c. ;  which  ap- 
*<  plication  u  attel'ed  and  fubfcribed  by  the  bi(hop  and  his  chapter,  on*  the 
.  **  aSth  Odober,  1544  years,  before  thefe  witncITes.  honourable,  honcft  and 
**  difcreet  men,  viz  ;  by  (figned)  Robertut  Orcadh,  Bpifcopus,  Nub9la* 

^  HaUtoAt  Orphar,  manu  propria;  Stepbanus  Culros,  ttAor  de  Stronfay; 
««  Petrm  HoMfiom,  redflr  de  Hoy;  Joannes  Maxtvril,  vtAoT  BcaU  Marine ^ 
'*  de  Sanday;  MaUolmus  HaUro,  archideaconus  Zetlandis,  ac  prebendarias 
*<  Sandz  Trinitatis,  Magnuf  Strang,  prebendariui  San(Slx  Columbs.  After 
reciting  fully  the  application  above  mentioned,  with  the  atcefiations  thereof, 
the  foundation  procecda  to  the  confirmation  and  eredion  above  fpecified, 
and  fandioni  it  in  thefe  terms :  "  But  if  any  one  (hall  prefume  to  contra- 
f  <  vcne  or  infringe,  as  God  forbid,  this  prefent  foundation,  in  whole  or  in  any 
**  part  thereof,  diredly  or  indire«5ily,  by  whatever  colour  or  pretence,  he  (hall 
»«  know,  that  he  will  Incur  the  wrath  of  Almighty  God,  of  the  blelTcd  Vir^ 
f<  gin  Mary,  and  of  all  the  faints,  and  cfpecially  of  St  Magnus  our  patron, 

•*  &c. 


4 1  z  Statiftical  Account 

minifters  for  the  time  being,  on  the  other  ;  therefore,  the  fti^ 
pend,  in  ftead  of  being  augmented  fince  the  faid  year  165J, 
is  actually  diminifhed  and  made  woric  than  it  was  in   1614, 

by 

«  &c.  Dated  and  done  lo  the  Cattle  of  St  Andrew's,  at  ix  hoots  fbrenooR,  or 
«*  thereabout,  in  the  year  of  the  incarnation  of  the  Lord,  Jaiv,  and  forty 
^  five,  upon  Tuefday  the  twentie  anc  day  of  Jtfly,  .being  the  third  indidion 
♦  of  the  popedom  of  our 'mod  ferene  father  vid  Lord  in  Chrift,  Paul  the 
1*  third,  by  the  pro»idcn<;c  of  God,  the  eleventh  year.  Venerabk  and  cir« 
"  cumfped  men  bcin^  prefant  there,  viz.  Sir  James  Stradiertfync,  &c.. 
"  (Signed,)  Joa n n es  Mask,  Prmbofitus  Cdltvii  Sau&i  Sai<oai9nty  ma/ui prcpriu  ** 

The  preceding  excerpt  were  taken  from  a  double  or  copy  of  faid  founda* 
tlon,  which  appears  ro.  have  been  a  long  verbofe  deed ;  a  full  copy  of  whiJi 
could  not  be  eajQiy  contained  in  Icfs  than  fifty  pages. 

The  followicg  exc^rpc  was  taken  from  the  regifter  of  affignations  for  the 
minifters  ilipends  through  Scotland,  for  the  year  1574*  which  rcgitler  was 
given  in  compliment  by  BiOiop  Keith  to  the  Advocates  library  in  EUiiibutgh, 
on  xSth  Augu{t  1746. 

«    Mary  Lli  I  in  Strort/jy,   PtUr  ii'riy   St  Nicholas  Kiri. 
••  Minificr,  his  (lipend  to  be  paid  as  follows,  via.  The 

«  thrcd  tf  thefeuaric  of  Orkney,  extending  to  anc  chalJer  nine  bolU  ihrc^ 
«*  parts  bear,  and  eleven  pounds  eleven  (hillings  one  peiiny,  and  two  parti 
«  filvcr,  to  be  paid  by  the  parifliioners  and  cackfiucn  of  St  Nicholas,  parochinc 
«*  of  Stronfay  and  North  Stronfay." 

Etltjy  atiil  Falray. 

«*  Mr  James  Maxwell  reader  of  thir  IJrks,  his  ftipcnd  twenty  pounds,  t% 
«'  be  p2id  funh  of  the  thrcd  of  hi»  own  benefice,  the  twa  chaplainrics  St  Ca- 
«'  tharine's,  prcbcndury  and  vicarage  of  Stronfay,  with  the  vicar'*  manfc  ajid 
«  glcib." 

liy  an  a<a  of  Piatt  or  provifion  of  ftipcnd*,  for  the  kirks  of  Orkney  in  the 
year  1^14,  which  proceeding  on,  and  referring  to  a  contrafi  of  £rcambion  be- 
twixt King  James  the  VI.  on  the  one  part,  and  Biftiop  James  Law,  and  the 
chapter  of  the  cathedral  kirk  of  Orkney,  on  the  other  part,  "  The  provi. 
«  fions  and  Efll^narions  for  the  mbiflers  in  the  biflioprick,  are  faid  to  have 
«*  left  unexhauftcd  not  meiklc  more  than  two  hundred  pounds  of  the  haiU 
*'  quantity  of  the  thirds  affumed,  alloting  to  ihofc  particular  kirks,  within  the 
<*  bilhoprick  iftcr  fpcci£;:4,  ta  wit. 

^  2.  T^ 


bfStronfay  and  Eday.  415 

\)y  means  of  faid  converfions,  which  are  now  found  detrimen- 
tal to  tJic  iiircrefl  of  the  minifter.  The  rife  in  vaiucof  the  com- 
modities paid  in  kind,  '.vas  found  to  be  fo  inconfiderable,  that 

down 


l.iP 

,  Mcilt, 

J\iffii»' 

o/Maie, 

*»  I.  To  Walls  and  riotta,. 

I 

4 

or 

aS 

«*  ^.  Floy.        6  barrels  butter, 

and  ball, 

3 

20 

or 

9* 

««  3.  Strnmncri  and  Sandwich. 

6  ditto 

3 

11 

or 

84 

"  4    Orphir. 

6 

3 

la 

or 

84 

"  5.  Holm. 

6 

3 

14 

or 

86   ' 

"  6.  Shapenftray. 

6 

3 

— 

or 

?» 

««  7.  The  reaner  in  Kirkwall. 

6--^ 

. 

IS 

— 

I^ 

**  And  to  the  morlerator. 

. 

. 

One  hundred  pounds. 

"  Then  the  haiU  remanctit  kirk«,  beinor  of  hit  Majcfly's  annexed  property^ 
•*  arc  for  moft  part  altogether  unprovided  ;  and  diofc  \vho  have  any  thing  at 
"  all,  has  yet  fo  fmall  means  of  maintenance,  as  no  honeft  man  will  under- 
«*  take  to  fcrvc  thrm.  Therefore  nfolved  to  unite  and  Incorporate  together, 
"  fuch  jlaroch  kirks  as  might  be  conjoined,  fo  as  to  reduce  the  number  of 
"  kirks  and  minifter s,  to  fuch  a  few  quantity,  and  their  ftipcnds  fuch  a  mo- 
'<  derate  proportion,  as  might  be  the  lead  diminution  polSble  of  his  High- 
**  nefs  refit,  as  well  for  the  help  and  fupply  of  fuch  kirks,  as  are  meanly  found- 
«  ed,  as  for  the  provifion  of  otheri*,  which  have  no  ftipcnds.  To  allow  with 
«*  the  leaft  detriment  poflible  to  his  Majcfty's  rents,  in  the  i/,  to  the  two" 
«*  parifli  kirks  of  South  Ronaldftray,  and  parilh  kirk  in  Bmray  united,  the 
«•  the  minifters  ftipend  to  be  helped  with  aeo  mrrks. 

«  !</,  The  two  kirks  of  St  Andrews  and  Dcemcfs,  in  the  mainland  of 
«•  Orkney,  united,  the  minifter's  ftipend  40c  mcrks  money,  with  the  glcbe» 
**  and  vicarages  of  the  fiid  kirks. 

**  3</,  Birfay  andHarray,  twa  parifli  kirks  in  the  mainland,  united,  the 
<•  minifter's  flipend  400  merks,  with  the  glebes  and  vicarages  of  the  faid 
««  kirk!!. 

«  4M,  Evie  and  Rendal,  twa  parifli  kirks  in  the  mainland,  united,  the  mini. 
*<  fter's  ftipend  300  merks,  with  the  manfe,  glebes  and  vicarages  of  the  faid 
"  kirks. 

«•  5/A,  The  iflc  of  Roufay  and  Fgllftray,  twa  parlL  kirkn  united,  the  mi- 
*•  nifter's  ftipend  300  merks,  with  the  glebes  and  vicarages  or  tl.e  faid  kirks. 

««  6tb,  The  iilcs  of  Weftray  and  Papa  Wcfiray,  united,  the  minifter's  fti- 
^ "  pend  to  be  helped  300  merks,  wiili  the  vicarage,  manfe  and  glebes. 


4^4  Statijlical  Account 

down  to  the  date  of  the  incumbent's  admiflion,  m  1779,  ,tiii9 
whole  benefice^  including  ftipend  and  glebes,  ^as  let  for  a 
period  of  ten  or  twelve  years  preceding,  from  year  to  year,  at 
no  greater  fum  than  54  i.  Sterling  •,  out  of  this  fmall  benefice, 
the  minifter  is  obliged  to  pay  one  (hilling  Sterling  of  freight 
every  time  he  paffes  over  the  ferry  to  preach  in  the  ifland  of 
£day.  There  is  no  fund  for  communion  elements,  as  the 
ftipend  was  never  modified  by  the  court  of  Teinds.  Lord 
DundasMs  patron. 

The  kirks  were  in  a  ruinous  ftate  in  1779.  The  kirk  oi 
Stronfay,  which  was  built  in  1726,  got  new  flates  put  on  its 
roof  in  1685*  but  it  ftill  needs  great  repairs.  The  kirk  of 
Eday,  which  was  built  about  the  year  1730,  is  in  a  ruinous 
ftate ;  it  had  not  a  pane  of  glafs  in  any  of  its  windows  in  the 
memory  of  any  man  living.  As  it  is  fituated  at  feven  miles 
diftance  from  t*he  manfe,  and  in  another  ifland,  and  in  fo 

bad 


>  <*  ;/£,  Burnefs  and  the  ifle  of  Sanda^,  and  North  k«nald(lfay»  twa  pa- 
^  rifli  kirk»  united,  the  miniftcrs  ftipend  300  merks,  with  manfe,  glebes,  and 
**  viccarage  of  Motth  R.onaldftray. 

«  8/i,  Stronfay,  Eday,  and  Fairay,  four  pariili  kirki  united,  the  nunifter'a 
^  ftipend  to  be  helped  with  100  merki. 

«  9/^,  Firth,  and  Stenhoufe,  twa  parifli  kirks  in  the  mainland,  to  be  pro- 
^  vided  with  three  hundred  merks,  of  the  furplus  of  bifliops  thirds,  with  the 
««  viccarage,  glebes,  and  manfe,  of  the  faid  kirks,  * 

*^  It  being  alwife  therewith  declared,  that  his  gratitude  for  the  help  and 
<*  fupply,  and  provifion  of  thefe  kirks^  extending  in  the  year  to  the  fum  of 
<*  two  thoufand  four  hundred  merks,  payable  furth  of  his  Maje(ly*s  rents ; 
••  and  duty  uf  the  tack  thereof,  fet  by  his  Majefty  to  Lord  Ochiltrie  for  certain 
**  years.  The  which  ^im,di  vided  among  the  faid  united  kirks  in  manner  above 
«•  fpectficd,  by  the  {aid  James  Law,  now  Arch-Bilhop  of  Olafgow,  (hall  re- 
<•  main  at  a  folid  and  conftant  afiignatioo^  enduring  the  time  of  csntiDHaiMt 
u  of  the  prefent  uck,  &c." 


)kA  a  ftate,  the  mitiifter  will  not  be  able-  to  officiate  Axett  at 
ill^  if  the  herhots  do  not  rebuild  or  re^r  it^. 

jp0pr>  Funds  auJ  Aviooitr.— -A  houie  aiid  {mall  parcel  oi 
land  was  mortified  to  the  poor  of  the  parifii  of  Stronfay  z* 
bout  6£tf  ftzts  ago,  into  the  pofiefiEipn  of  wfaieh  one  of  the 
principdd  heritor  flipt  m  a  ^landeftioe  manner,  during  die 
vacaiM^y  of  the  parifty  at  leaft  during  the  infane  ftate  of 
mind  ii^o  which  the  minifter  had  fallen^  about  twenty  three 
yeari  ago  \  and  diat  a&er  this  heritable  fubjed  had  been  many 
yeaffs  in  the  pofieflion  of  the  minifter  and  kiirk  feffion  of  Stron«> 
fay»  as  trufteea  for  the  poor.  Thefe  truftees*  feveral  years  paft^ 
have  been  have  been  uGng  legal  means,  all  others  having  pro<» 
¥ed  unfuceefsful,  to  recover  their  pofleffion  and  propcrt)r« 

The  kirk  tdtvoAscf  Stronfay  and  Eday  have  no  other  funds 
for  the  relief  of  indigent  objects,  except  the  weekly  and  fa« 
cramental  coHedbhs,  with  fame  fioiall  penalties  froiyi  delin<» 
i^uents  \  wall,  not  exceeding  8 1*  Sterling  yearly,  but  of  which^ ' 
the  fel&on  ckrks  and  kirk  officers  falaries  muft  be  paid  i  (o 
diat^  after  payiilg  for  ooflias  £or  thofe  on  die  poot^s  roll  who 
die  annually,  the  pittance  it  Very  fmall,  indeed,  which  remahia 
to  be  diilributed  among  the  mod  deftitute  obje£ts  in  thefo 
united  pariQiesi  whofe  number  amounts,  at  an  average^  to 
twenty  five* 

Vol.  XV.  3  t  Ai 

*  A  decreet  olthe  presbytery  of  North  ifles  Went  out  in  tlie  year  ij^ 
for  repairing  the  manfe,  and  building  offices.  But  thefe  repairs  and  buildings 
arc  not  yet  executed  ;  they  are  indeed  far  froih  being  coinpleated. 

The  minifter  gave  the  heritors  no  charge  on  this  decreet,  till  fereil  yeiri 
after  iu  date,  in  hopes  that  there  would  be  no  neceifity  for  chargiag 
^m ;  but  thele  hopes  weTte  fndlrated ;  accordingly,  he  gave  them  a  charge* 
Which  they  inftantly  fufpended,  and  (hey  have  litigated  the  auie  for  Mher- 
fevcn  years  before  the  Court  of  SclTion,  and  before  aibiters,  whafe  0nal  df^ 
tttei  hath  net  as  yet  beea  givtn  oyiU 


4^  Si^ijilcul  Ac4wtU 

Asiev^ofjioneof  the  heritors  rcfide  within  the  booiiis: 
of  this  diftrl^»  and  as  not  any  of  the  non-refiding  heritors 
contribute  any  fum  whatever  for  the  maintenance  of  the 
poor;  their  fupport  muft  depend  on  the  families  of  the  mi- 
nifter  and  parifluonc^rs* 

The  heritors  of  Stronfay  agreed,  about  fifteen  years  ago» 
to  give  a  (alary  of  three,  pounds  Stef ling  tio  a  fcho9lmafter. 

.  But  this  falaryt  fmaU  though  it  be^  hath  not  been  regularly 
paid;  and  to  procure, in  terms  of  law»  a  falary  and  fchooU 
houfei  would  infer  greater  expence  than  the  minifter  can> 
in  his  prefent  circumftances^  afford.    The  heritors  are  un- 

.willing)  and  the  pariftioners  of  Stronfay  and  of.Eday  are 
unable,  to  accomplilh  this  defireable  end.  A  fociety-fchool 
hath,  for  fereral  years  paft,  been  a  great  benefit  to  the  poor 
duldren  in  the  pariih  of  Stronfay.    Such  a  fchool  is  highly 

•  nceefiary  in  the  ifland  of  Eday  ;  but  numberlefs  applications, 
at  different  periods,  by  the  minifter  to  the  fociety  ifor  propa- 
gating chriftian  knowfedge,  have  been  rejeAed,  on  account 
of  a  regulation  which  that  fociety  have  long  adopted ;  viz. 
to  eftablifli  their  fchoois  only  in  pariflies  which  have  paro* 
diial.  fchoois  or  faiaries  paid  by  fome  of  the  heritors  or  by 
the  parifhioners. 

Clhnate  and  Difea/es.'-^Thc  fituation  of  this  diltrid,  fuT- 
rounded  as  it  is  by  the  fea,  and  at  a  moderate  elevation  above 
the  level  of  it,  is  thus  rendered  wholefome  and  agreeable, 
particularly  during  the  fummer  months^  when  the  feafons 
are  dry  and  warm  ;  but  £is  it  is  expofcd  to  heavy  rains  and 
thick  weather  in  winter,  with  gales  of  wind  in  fpring  and 
autumn,  thole  who  cannot  eafily  put  up  with  retirement,  and 
to  be  confined  within  narrow  bounds,  for  feven  or  eight 
months,  muft  find  it  an  uncomfortabla  place  of  refidence. 

Somt 


^  Stf  on/ay  ani  Eday*  417 

Some  of  tJie'on-eall  work,  or  undefined  fervicca  et  ancient 
limes,  are  ftiH  exaded  5  which  circumftanGe,  with  the  great 
proportUm  of  gloomy  and  wet  weather  to  whkh  the  inhabit 
tants  are  cxpofed,  and  the  little  encourageftient  given  by  the  ■ 
higher  ranks  of  people  to.  their  inferiors,  to  excite  a  fpirit  of 
emulation,  and  to  promote  improvements  in  agriculture  and 
manufactures,  give  the  inhabitants,  in  general,  and  the  lower 
ranks  in  particular,  a  demure  afpeft,  and  contribute,  perhaps,^ 
in  fome  meafure,  tointroduce-  and  propagate  certain  m,al3<i> 
dies,  which  have  unfortunately  become  too  common  in  this'- 
diftrift  ;  particulary  fcverc  coid^s,  rheumatifms,  confumptions,' 
paralytic  complaints,  and  fymptoms  of  Infanity*. 

3  I  2.  CbaraHtr. 

^  The  foUowiiig  cafe  may  perlkapi  appear  fingukr.'  A-  yovog  gif  1;  in  tko 
iflaod  of  Stronlay,  named  Jean  Brown,  the  daughter  of  a  poor  labourer,  in 
the  year  1788,  when  about  eleven  yeara  of  age,  was  zSs&eA  witk  paio^  all 
over  her  body;  thefe  at  firft  continued^only  a  few  daySfbiit  recttrrcd-eacli 
fortnight  periodically,  for  a  coniiderable  number  of  months.  Afterwardsi  the 
pains  recnmed  montblyy  were  of  longer  continuance  and.  proved  more  vio^ 
lent,  and  her  (jpeech  became  greatly  afieAed.  In  this  ilaie  flic  repnaintid  about 
two  ^ars.  After  which  period,  her  internals  oi  fidcnels  and  heakh  g»dtial<* 
ly  approached  to  an  equality  of  duration,  and  facceeded  each  other  qu;M'ter» 
ly ;  that  it,  in  fpring  and  avtumn,  flic  was  greatly  diftrefled  and  loft  her 
4>«ech  entirely ;  her  pains  increafed  to  fuch  a.  degree,  that  Ihe  groaned  and 
moaned  perpetually  when  awake ;.  Aie  could  fit  in  a  chair,  and  could  movo 
ftowly  about  the  fiddsof  the  houfeir,  leaning  to  fuch  things  as  &e  found  ia 
her  way.  In  the  fummer  ^d  winter  quarters  her  pains  abated,  and  flie'  re- 
covered  her  fpeech.  In  this  ftate  (he  continued  until  the  month  of  May  1793^ 
which  was  the  periodical  feafon  of  her  recovery ;  in  flead  of  whSdr)  '(he  con<* 
tinn^  exceedingly  diftreflied,  for  about  fix  months  ;  when  ihc  again,  to  the 
great  furprife  and  joy  of  her  parents,  recovered  not  only  l^er  fpeech,  but  like<£ 
wife  her  health,  in  fuch  a  degree,  as  to.be  inclined  to  engage  to  gotofervico 
lail:  winter*  which  engagement  ihe  a^uaHy  performed..  Whether  her  paint 
will  continue  to  return  periodicaUy»  and  at  increaiing  imervaU'of  time,  as 
In^prly,  it  a  fttbj^dt  for  the  medical  facn^y  to  difcufs.   This  xaie  ha£ied  the 

fldJl. 


428  Staiyikal  A€ci>mt    . .. 

Ch^raShr  snd  Manners  of  iie  lnMdiaf^s.^^Th6  InnoW 
and  reftrifted  bQUfMbines  of  thi  inhabitatfs  of  tbefe  iflandsy 
circumfcribied  as  they  are  bf  the  fai)  faaTe  atendkney   to 
elevate  the  min49  of  UK>{b  who  move  in  the  Ughor  mnki 

of 

(kill  of  all  the  dolors  to  whom  this  poor  ffrlU  parent!  had  accdr ;  at  lnfl» 
ftrery  medicine  which  could  be  procured,  waa  ineffedual  to  obtain  for  her  any 
p^e  or  relief  from  trouble., 

Amither  extraordinarf  cafe,  is,  of  a  young  girl  in  the  fame  ilknd  of  Strofw 
Uj,  whofe  name  ia  Ifabe]  Sinclair  :  ^er  father  poflefTes  a  fiDall  farm  ss  fei^ 
tenant ;  His  affurt  have  been  embarrafled,  and  hia  family,  cedocnd  to  ftraita 
by  his  daughter's  illnefs.  In  November  1785,  at  eight  years  of  age,  when 
going  to  a  well  for  water,  (he  was  inilantanegufly  (buck  with  what  was  (up* 
pofed  to  be  the  palfy.  She  was  carried  to  her  father's  houfe  fpeechleis,  and 
almoft  totally  deftitote  of  the  ufe  of  her  limbs,  and  feemed  to  have  little  or 
no  eiercifc  of  her  naenul  Baltics }  fttt  wu  afterwania  enttrtly  confined  to  her 
bed.  Dmiog  whseh  oonlmemeiir,  |be  itaa  fomctimes  lifted  ap  and  earned  to  Uk 
elbow  chair,  whara  (ha  fat  for  Ibme  hovra,  and  behoved  to  be  carried  bade 
^gatn  to  her  bed.  She  could  hardly  lift  up  her  eyes,  and  fometimes  appeared  to 
'ht  in  great  diftrefs.  Her  appetite,  however,  did  not  forlake  her,  and  (he  ad« 
Tinted  in  growth,  no  lefs  progreflively  than  if  (he  had  ^een  in  health ;  bnt, 
vnfoRunately,  for  the  mean  0ation  of  her  parents,  there  was  little  meat  or 
^rink  of  the  produce  of  Orkney  which  (he  eould  receive  into  her  mouth ;  and 
when  Qie  did  teeeive  and  fwallow  the  ufual  country  fare,  it  did  not  reft  ob 
ha  (lomach  but  came  up  again.  Flour,  barley,  bifciiiti  fieaft,  which  are  exo* 
^c%  with  poutoea  and  milk,  of  Otkncfy  produce,  were  !h«  proviiiom  by  wldch 
fte  waa  nondtMu  bhe  eat  fo  freely,  tXat,  though  deftitute  of  commoB  ei« 
frpifi?  and  fteih  open  air,  the  growth  of  her  perfon  advanced  aa  qui^y  aa  if 
^a  had  been  in  l^alth, 

,In  thia  dilbrefled  and  difcnal  ftate  (he  remained  for  nine  compleat  yeara, 
|he  waa  avtrfe  to  take  medicines  of  any  fort,  which,  howev«f ,  were  often  pro* 
eared  foe  her,  in  hopes  thatthey  would  coatribttte  to  her  recovery ;  and  wtoi 
Ihe  took  them,  they  bad  no  influence  on  her  Ib^e  of  heakh*  In  the  month  of 
Kofember  1793,  after  a  violent  and  painftil  Arable  one  sight,  Ihe,  to  the 
|[reat  joy  of  her  parents,  and  to  the  aftoniibment  of  idl  who  bad  feen  or  hetrd 
of  her  lingular  malady,  recovered  her  (pe^ch  and  the  excreife  of  her  mental 
fKukiei;  upon  which  Ihe  foon  ezprelled  defire  for  clean  clpaths,  aod  to  be 
4rcired|  (which  (he  had  not  been  daring  her  nine  years  illneft,)  that  (he 

^h( 


tf  Str^nfay  and  Eday.  4^ 

of  life,  and  tor  infpire  them  irltb  a  degree  of  Importance^ 
to  which  ftr«ngera  are  fre<|ueutly  inclined  to  diipute  the 
juftncfs  of  their  claim.  The  heritors,  ia  geoen^f  ,bave 
not  yet  exhibited  ready  difpofitions  to  encourage  and  re^ 
ward,  an  a^Hve  fpirit  of  induftty  and  improveoKnt,  by 
lengthening  the  leafes  of  their  tenants,  or  otherwiie ;  but,  on 
thocontrary,  have  overlooked  fuch  indications  of  fpirit,  when 
exiubited  by  th^ir  tenam$,  and  have  been  ready  to.  attribute 
their  confequisnt  fuccefs  to  th<r  lucrative  terms  on  which  they 
held  their  poifeflionSy  and  accordingly  made  this  a  pretence 
for  exaAbig  more  rent.;  with  which  demand,  however  un- 
reafonable,  if  the  induftrious  farmers  did  not  comply,  others, 
leb  (kilful.  Of  lefs  a£live,  have  been  preferred^  merely  by 
Showing  a  readinefs  to  agree  to  terms,  which,  infVead  of  being 
able  to  implement,  they  have  found,  on  trial,  that  they  were 
unable  to  pay  up  even  the  old  rent  exclufive  of  the  additional 
rent. 

This  condud  tends  greatly  to  difcouragc  tenants,  and  hath 
contributed  much  to  prevent  any  improvement  of  the  foil, 
from  a  dread  thus  excited  in  the  minds  of  the  tenants  of  being 
difpoflefied,  or  of  being  obliged  to  promiie  more  rent  than 
diey  could  afibcd  to  pay.  To  this  caufe,  a  fufpicious  and 
diftruftful  fpirit  between  heritors,  tenants,  and  fub-tenants, 
may  in  a  great  meafure  be  afcribed.  Hence  a  defire  to  con- 
ceal their  property  and  their  gains,  one  *from  another,  and 
to  take  undue  advantages,  when  an  opportunity  occurs,  by 
way  of  retaliation,  for  real  or  imaginary  injuries  done  them. 

The 

might  get  out  of  bed.    She  was  then  very  week  and  feeeble,  as  might  natu- 
rally be  cxpeded ;  (he  gradually  recovered,  though  flowly ;  ihe  now  couvcrfes 
ratiooably,  and  appears  to  have  fuitable  impreffioni  of  pious  ^atitude  for  her . 
recovery. 

Of  thofe  who  have  been  afieAed  or  cut  off  by  the  other  maladies  above  men- 
tioned, it  is  unneceflary  to  Specify  inltances,  as  their  cafes  appeared  to  b^  of 
^  common  |und« 


43(5  '  Stai0ical  Account 

The  inhabitants  are,'  m  general,  of  an  obBghig,  kind,  hof- 
pitable  difpolition  to  one  another,  and  alfo  to  itrangers ;  ef- 
pecialljr  when,  on  particular  occdions,  as  at  weddings,  bap- 
tifms,  &c.  they  have  it  in  their  power  to  gratify  that  fpirit 
of  importance,  which  they  poffifs,  by  furnifliing  entcrtadn- 
ments  in  a  ftile  fuperior  to  what  might  be  expcfted  from 
their  ftations  and  circnmftanccs  in  life.  On  thefc  occafions, 
the  higbeft  compliment  which  the  guefts  can  confer  on  their 
entertainer^  is  to  fit  to  a  very  late  hour,  arid  to  partake  freely 
of  the  beft  things  fet  before  them.§ 

'  ,  Mifceilaneous 

$  It  is  to  be  lamented  that  the  heritors,  Qot  ooly  in  this  diftrid,  but  through 
Orkney,  in  general,  are  not  fo  ready,  as  might  be  cxpeAcd,  to  unite  with  the 
mtniilers  of  the  gofpcl  in  promoriog  the  caufe  of  religion  and  virtue,  with  re- 
gard to  parochial  fchools  and  a  provifion  for  the  poor,  as  above  ftatcd ;  they, 
moreover,  do  frequently  manlfeft  a  disinclination  to  build  or  repair  fuitablc 
kirks  and  manfes,  and  to  make  a  decent  provifion  for  the  fupport  of  the  clef- 
?y»  ^y  which  the  intcrefts  of  religion  arc  materially  injured,  and  the  cfta- 
bliihcd  clergymen,  with  their  families,  greatly  diflrelTed. 

The  iifue  of  Tome  tedious  and  ezpenilve  law  fuits,  it  is  to  be  hoped,  will 
not  only  open  the  eyes  of  the  laity  to  dieir  own  intereft,  but  the  prefent  Hate* 
€f  public  afiairs  will,  it  is  prefumed,  effisdually  convince  them,  that  the  inte- 
rcils  of  the  clergy,  of  the  laity,  and  of  all  ranks  in  fociety,  are  fo  blended  and 
mutually  conne(5led,  that  it  is  true  wifdom  and  found  policy,  to  ftrengthen 
by  combining,  rather  than  to  weaken- by  dividing  them  ;  cfpccially  as  a  foi- 
table  proviiion,  and  the  accomodation  of  kirks  and  manfes,  are  effentially  rc- 
quifite  to  the  decent  and  regular  difcharge  of  a  clergyman's  office,  which  con- 
Hits  chiefly  in  explaining  and  in  calculating  the  dodrines  and  precepts  of  our 
holy  religion  ;■  which  will  invariably  be  found  the  moil  effcdual  means  to 
lecure  a  due  fubordination  of  ranks  in  fociety  ;  which  fubordinations  is  ef. 
iential  to  the  happinefs  of  the  community,  as  well  as  the  beib  means  to  pro- 
mote the  fpiritual  and  temporal  intereft  of  individuals. 

The  common  people  of  this  difLti<fl  remain  to  this  day  fo  credulous,  as  to 
think  that  fairies  do  exift  ;  that  an  inferior  fpecies  of  witch-craft  is  {till  prac* 
•jEisd,  and  that  houfcs  have  been  haunted,  not  only  in  former  ages,  but  that 

they 


t>f  Stronfay  and  Eday.  431 

Mifcellaneous  Oi/ervations, — The  center  of  the  Orkney  i- 
Ilands  lies  in  latitude  56""  North.    The  weather  is  in  general 

moderate^ 

they  are  haooted,  at  leaft  noifes  are  heardi  which  cannot  be  accounted  for  on 
rational  principle*,  even  in  oyr  days.  An  inftancc  of  the  latter  happened  on- 
ly three  years  ago,  in  the  houfe  of  John  Spcnce,  boat*carpenter,  which  houfe 
ftandfl  within  the  diftance  of  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  manfe  of  Stron£iy. 
In  the  month  of  April  l^^,  ihi$  carpenter  had  almoft  compleaced  a  boat» 
which  he  had  on  the  flocks :  He,  hit  wife,  hia  (errant^  and  his  children,  cue 
zught  fometime  after  they  were  iaid  in  bed,  heard  a  noife  ivfeinbling  what  be 
had  been  accuftomed  to  make  when  driving  nails  into  the  boat.  It  continued 
a  long  time.  He  fuppofed  it  to  be  boys,  who  having  come  that  way  at  a 
late  hour,  were  amofing  thcmfelves.  At  laft  he  got  tip,  and  went  on  with  an 
intemion  to  reprove  and  difinift  them.  The  notfe  ceafed  •n  hia  going  out  c£ 
doon  to  the  boat,  which  Hood  hard  by  hia  houfe ;  bvt  he  could  neither  fee  n^r 
hear  any  body.  The  noife  was  heard  by  all  the  family,  not  only  that  night* 
but  many  nights  after ;  not  nightly,  in  conftant  fuccdiion,  but  at  irregular  in- 
tervals. Whilft  the  boat  lay  on  the  ftocks.  It  [was  ftill  apprehended  that  the 
noife  proceeded  from  it,  although  no  marks  of  ftrokee  could  bde  ecerned,  evoa 
after  it  had  been  newly  covered  otcr  with  tar,  within  ind  without,  when  the 
leaft  touch  will  make  an  impreffion.  The  miilrcfs  of  the  houfe  and  the  chiU- 
ren  were  alarmed ;  at  her  eameft  reqneft,  therefore,  in  order  to  remove  ef- 
fednally  the  fuppofed  caufe  of  the  noife,  the  boat  when  finiflied,  was  feat 
home,  which  happened  to  be  to  a  place  on  the  other  fide  of  the  iihnd,  from 
which  place  the  noife  could  not  reach  the  carpenter's  houfe.  Yet  lo !  and 
behold !  the  fame  noife  continned,  even  vrhen  there  was  no- boat  on  the  ftocks, 
and  that  for  no  Icfs  than  four  months  ;  and  as  the  time  elapfed,  the  noife 
increafed  with  ftill  louder  and  quicker  ftrokes,  until  it  came  to  refemble  the 
ftrokes  of  two  men  hard  at  work  on  a  fmith^a  anviL  It  uttered  at  laft,  not 
only  the  fonnds  of  much  facigoe,  when  men  art  employed  in  fuch  work»  b«t 
moans  of  great  diftrefs. 

All  whidi  feemed  to  this  family  to  proceed  fomettmes  from  one  qoartor, 
and  at  other  times  from  another  quarter  within  their  houfe.  Some  of  the 
oeighbotirs  were  brought  to  fleep  in  the  houfe,  in  order  to  difcover  the  dclu- 
fion  or  impofition,  if  any  fuch  eiifted.  The  feme  noife,  at  the  vfual  time  of 
the  Bight,  was  heard  by  thefe  neighbours  as  well  as  by  the  Dunily*  The  maf- 
ter  of  the  houfe  himfelf  b^an  at  laft  to  be  fomewhat  aUrmed ;  but,  putting 
his  truft  IB  God,  he  rcfelved  (9  addids  ibu  fupcrnatural  diftWber,  and  lo  aik 


43^  Statiftical  Account 

moderate,  and  the  climate  temperate.    But  gales  of  wind,  iri 
the  end  of  July,  or  the  beginning  of  Auguft,  have  fometimes 

greatly 

what  it  meant  or  what  k  wanted  :  Accordingly,  in  the  month  of  AugaSt 
following,  one  night  after  he  had  lain  fometime  in  bed  with  hit  wife  and 
.  children,  upon  hearing  the  laft  mentioned  aggratated  noiie,aooomp«nied  with 
difinai  groant,  ho  fat  op  in  his  bod,  and  folemnly  conjnrod  it,  in  the  name  •£ 
the  Holy  Trinity,  to  ^peak,  if  it  had  any  thing  to  fay  to  him.  Inarticulate 
foandt  of  a  faultering  tongue  uoiible  to  fpeak,  accorapaoied  with  difiaal  groani, 
wero  heanl. 

The  noife  foon  after  ceafed,  and  did  not  return  any  mono  to  diikurb  thif 
fjunily.  The  preceding. account  the  mioiAer  Decently  heard  from  the  laid 
John  Spence,  and  aUo  from  hi^  wife,  when  fepacately  examined  by  i)im  on  thi« 
fubje^  on  which  occafions  they  always  Itppeared  gr^ve  and  ierioui. 

In  thii  eminently  eidigbtened  age,  when  atheifm  and  irrcligion  have  heed 
▼ery  adive  in  bringing,  not  only  fuperilition  and  cnthufiafm,  but  religion  it* 
ielf  to  the  Guillotine,  it  it  highly  probable,  that  the  traiu  of  charader  noir 
exhibited  will  be  held  in  derifion,  and  the  drawer  therof  expofed  to  iofinitd 
ridicule  on  account  of  the  preceding  narrative,  by  thofie  who  glory  in  being 
fuperior  to  vulgar  prejudices.  If  this  fhould  be  the  cafe, 'he  will. not  attempt 
to  remonftrate,  but  only  humbly  propofe  the  following  queries,  tjl.  Are  the 
inconfiderable  remains  of  fuperfUtion  and  endiofiaiki,  which  do  aff&SL  the 
charader  only  in  fmall  and  unimportant  matters;  or  icepticifin,  which  gives 
a  new  and  totally  different  diredion  to  the  nnderftanding  and  the  will,  leaA 
dangerous  to  our  happy  eftabliflimrnt  in  church  and  ftate  i  And  whereas  the 
hmnan  mind  is  a  fruitful  field,  in  whkh  whoklbine  herbs,  or  noxious  weedj, 
will  fpring  up  and  flouriih,*»4^.  Is  it  wifer  to  pluck  up  at  onoe  the  whole 
exifting  crop,  before  we  Jiave  duly  oonlidered  the  native  and- tendency  of  tbfl 
feed  to  be  fiibfUtuted  in  its  place ;  or  to  contsnue  to  cukiTate  the  feeds  o|  rev 
▼ealed  religion,  (which  fyftem  hath  been  held  in  high  eftimationby  wifemefl 
.  in  all  ages  of  vrorld,)  and  at  the  tuat  time,  gradually  to  chedk  teid  eradicac^ 
pernicious  errors  and  immoral  pradioes  f  A  candid  examination  of  thefe 
querieamay  poflibly'fumiih  lome  apology,  why  the  miaifter  and  pooplc  of  thif 
diihid  are  not  very  hafty  to  exchange  old  prejudices  for  newandAr^ngedof* 
uinct,  which  eventually  m^y  be,  and  in  a  neighbouring  nntinnhavc  bocalii^ 
veriiTe  of  the  piincipUaofreligiaa  natural  jad  rorealtd. 


I 


t>f  Stronfay  and  Ed  ay.  43  3 

greatly  injured  the  crop  of  the  whole  country.  This  was 
the  cafe  in  the  year  1778^  on  the  14th  of  Auguft,  when  a 
^ale  of  wcfterly  wind,  of  not  more  than  four  hours  continu- 
ance, drove  th«  fray  df  the  fca  over  the  Orkney  iflands,  which 
tbniagcd  the  crop  to  fuch  a  degree,  that  it  was  found  nocef- 
fary  td  import  about  x8>o6q  bolls  of  meal  and  bear,  whichi 
with  large  quantities  of  bifcut)  potatoes,  pcafe,  barley  and 
mah»  coH  tlie  confumers  no  lefs  a  {um  than  15,000 1.  Ster- 
ling, that  is,  neatly  Mirice  the  grofs  rent  of  the  country;  Cropd 
1782,  17^53.  i784>  "7^S»  ^^^^  poor  indeed,  but  rot  fo  bad  as 
that<^  *77^'  Toftipply  the  deficiency  of  the  faid  four  crops, 
nearly  20,000  bolls  of  vi£):udl  were  imported  into  Orkney.  The 
crops  for  fe^crll  years  lad  pad,  have  been  fo  much  better^ 
that  confiderablc  quantities  of  vi£iual.have  been  exported. 

The  ferries  in  this  di  ft  rift,  and  through  all  Orkney,  except 
t>n  the  poft  road  from  Caithtiefs  to  Kirkwall^  are  not  undet 
proper  regtilations.  There  are  no  dated  feny-men,  the  freights 
are  accordingly  impofeJ  at  the  pleafure  of  the  boatmen  whd 
fcrofs  over  with  paficngers,  which  renders  the  ex  pence  and 
trouble  of  travelling  through  thefc  iflands  very  gteat,  and  dif- 
ficult to  be  afcertained. 

There  are  ale-hcufes  iii  almoft  all  the  iflands,  but  no  inns^ 
except  in  Kirkwall  and  Sttomnefs,  the  only  towns  In  Orkney  ; 
which  circumftance  makes  it  inconvenient  fot  ftrangers-to 
pafs  through  this  country  j  this  defeft,  however,  is  well  fup- 
plicd  by  th^  mod  refpcclable  people  in  each  of  the  iflands, 
who  receive  and  3^ccommodutc  travellers  with  great  hofpitality 
and  fcindnefs; 

The  inhabitants  of  Orkney  are  nearly  the  fame  in  number 
now,  ( I  794,)  according  to  accounts  lately  given  in  by  the 
feveral  miinders,  to  the  fynod  of  Orkney,  as  they  were  found 
to  be  by  like  accounts  giv'en  in  to  Murdoch  Mackenzie,  ma- 
ritime furveyor  of  thcfe  iflands,  about  the  year  1750  5  viz. 
from  23  to  24,coo. 

Vol.  XV-  3  R  There 


434  Statijlical  Account 

There  arc  eighteen  parifli-minifters  in  Orkney,  {the  pariflx 
kirks  thirty  two,)  divided  into  three  prcfbyterics,  in  each  of 
which  there  are  fix  minifters.  Of  thofe  who  filled  thefc 
offices  twenty  five  years  aga,  when  the  author  of  this  article 
was  fettled',  only  three  incumbents  now  remain,  one  in  each 
of  the  prefbyteries ;  viz.  one  in  the  parifhes  of  Hoy  and 
Guymfay,  one  in  the  pariihs  of  Ronfay  and  Egiifliay ;  all 
the  other  pariflies  in  Orkney,  have  been  vacated  by  the  death 
of  their  rcfpeftivc  paftors,  fome  of  them  by  the  death  of 
more  than  one  incumbent. 

This  obfervation  tends  to  (how,  that  the  infcfription  over 
the  door  of  the  minifter  firft  in  order,  in  the  burgh  of  Kirk- 
wall, in  Orkney,  might  very  properly  be  put  over  the  door 
of  every  minifter's  manfe  in  the  county,  to  keep  the  poifef- 
fors  in  mind  of  the  rapidity  of  fucceffion,  and  fliortnefs  of 
the  time  which  all  and  each  of  them  can  reafoT»bly  expe£t 
to  hold  their  offices.  The  infcription  is  in  a  MonkUh  rhyme, 
as  follows : 

Omnia  terreoa,  per  vices  funt  aliena ; 

Nunc  mea,  tunc  hiijas ;  poft  moricni  ntfcio  cujat^ 


^fGlemrofs.  435 

NUMBER,  XXL 
PARISH  OF  GLENCROSS-      . 


(Presbytery  of  Dalkeith,  Sykod*  of  Lothian  and 

TWEEDDALE,   A«ND  CoUNTY  OF  MiD-LoTHIAN  ) 


By  the  Rev.  Mr  William  Torrence,  Miui/ler. 

WITH  ADDITIONS  by  the 

Rev.  Dr  John  Walker,  Mtnifter  of  Colingtcn^ 

AND 

Professor  OF  Natural  History  in  the  University  of 
Edinburgh. 

Situation  end  Extent. 

jL  his  parifh  is  fituated  alsout  7  miles  Weft  from  Edln- 
burg  :  The  roads  leading  to  Biggar,  Moffat,  and  Peebles,  run 
through  It.  The  extent  of  it  is  nearly  about  3  miles  frorti 
Eaft  to  Weft,  and  the  fame  diftancc  from  South  to  North.  It 
is  bounded  on  the  Eaft  and  South  by  the  parifh  of  Lafswade, 
and  on  the  Weft  and  North  by  the  parifhes  of  Pennycuick  and 
Colington.  It  had  formerly  been  a  part  of  the  pariflies  of  LafT- 
wade  and  Pennycuick,  and  was  eredcd  into  a  feparate  parifh 

in  1 6 16, 

3  If  i  Fopulaiton* 


436  Statifiitfal  Account 

Populaikn. — There  is  Tcafon  to  believe  that  tlie  popuhtion 
of  this  parifli  has  decreafcd  confidcrably  within  thcfc  40  3fears, 
on  account  of  the  union  of  fafins.  At  prcfent  there  arc  385 
fouls,  73  families,  175  males,  245  unmarried. 

Ia^t  of  Baptisms,  Marriages,  and  Bu&JAts,  for  S  years. 


Tears. 

Baptisms. 

Marriages. 

Burtsi 

1785 

• 

6 

• 

• 

4 

iO 

86 

• 

10 

. 

. 

4 

S 

87 

• 

7 

• 

• 

3 

10 

88 

• 

9 

r 

• 

3 

4 

89 

90 

• 

•       M 

• 

• 

3 

4 

9' 

• 

•        3 

• 

• 

5 

3 

92 

• 

11 

• 

• 

I 

4 

Jgriculiure. — ^Thc  greateft  part  of  this  parifh  is  adapted 
to  pafturage,  being  part  of  th?  Ftrntland  hiils  \  and  it  i$  fuppefr 
cd  that  the  farmers  would  find  their  account  in  dire£ting  their 
attention  more  to  this  object,  in  other  parts  of  the  parifh. 
The  mod  profitable  crops  arc  oats  and  grafs,  and  the  moft 
fubftantial  improvements  are  draining  and  manuring  with 
lime. 

There  are  in  this  parifh  about  60  fcgre  of  flieep,  about 
150  cows  and  oxen,  and  about  10c  hoifes.  The  (heep  in  this 
parilh  are  generally  of  the  common  black  fi\ccd  kind-  The 
farmers  have  hitherto  found  no  other  kind  fo  hardy  and  fo 
profitable.  Smearing  is  univcrfally  pradlifed  by  the  farmery. 
They  think  it  defends  from  the  cold,  the  rot,  and  the  fcab. 
They  give  31b  of  butter  to  i  pint  of  tar,  and  about  6  pints  of 
tar  and  i81b  of  butter  to  the  fcorc.    Xia;nbs  fell  from  4s.  to 

65. 


qfQJencrafs.  437 

69, )  vooiyfioch'^s.  to  7s.,per  ilone ;  ewes  with  lamb  from  toa. 
to  I2S; 

The  multure  paid  by  die  farmers  is  1  peck  to  6  jiriots  of 

{billiagy  «nd  about  half  a.  ptck  of  meal  to  every  bo)l  of  oats* 

'fhc  great  coniphdnt  on  this  ankle,  is,-^that  the  multaie  is 

nicafured,  not  weighed,  and  tliat  the  meafures  are  large  ^nd 

^  uncertain. 

ManufaBures.^^ln  this  [>aripi  there  is  one  didillery,  one 
blcadiiield,  two  corn^mills,  oue  barky-mill,  three  fmitlis,  twp 
ntaibp$,  two  Wrights,,  twq  weavers,  one  taylor,  (wo  butchers^ 
and  one  coalHer. 

FoJJtls. — ^The  part  dT  the  Pentland  hills  which  is  in  this 
parilh,  like  all  the  reft  of  that  range  of  mountains,  confide 
of  difierent  forts  of  whiuftone,  and  other  lapideous  ftrata, 
which  are  commonly  Urmzd  J>nmifive  Kocir,  The  lower 
grounds  in  the  parifh,  which  form  part  of  the  valley  of  Mi4 
Lothian,,  contain  foflils  of  a  very  difl'erent  kind,  and  which 
are  known  by  the  name  oi  fecundaryjlrjia.  Tliefe  Tire/and^ 
Jlone,  Umeftonei  coal^  and  its  concomitant  foflils,  M'hich  are 
lifually  called  coal  mttals* 

Through  Scotlartd,  in  general,  thefe  fecundary  ftrata  occupy 
the  lower  parts  of  the  country  j  but  the  mountainous  tradls 
are  entirely  compofcd  of  ftrata  of  the  prin^ljye  kind.  The 
fecundary  ftrata  ftretch  through  the  valley  of  ^id  Lothian^ 
for  about  15  miles,  from  Muflelburgh  fands,  to  the  CaerUps 
on  the  confines  of  Twecddale,  where  they  arc  all  cut  off.  In  ' 
fcvcral  places,  they  arrive  at  the  (kirts  of  the  Pentland  hills, 
but  never  afccnd  them.  They  terminate  gradually,  as  they  ap^ 
proach  the  mountains,  and  feem,  at  their  termination,  to  over- 
leap, as  it  were,  the  primitive  ftrata  of  which  the  mountains 
fonfift. 


43<S  Statistical  Account 

By  the  Gdc  of  the  river  of  Glencrofs,  there  is  a  veio  fcve- 
ral  feet  wide,  entirely  filled  with  that  mineral  fubftance  call- 
ed heavy /par.  It  is  a  foifil  tliat  abounds  in  many  of  the 
xicheftoieUU  c  veins,  both  in  Scotland,  and  in  fare^  coun- 
tries ;  and  afibrds  indeed  a  probable  indication  of  meul^  cf- 
peciaily  of  lead.  Tht5.  vein  appears  to  have  been  worked  a 
little  way  in  former  times,  but  had  foon  been  given  up.  It 
is  not  unlikely,  that  on  fome  future  occafion,  it  may  be 
thought  worthy  of  further  examination.  Of  all  foiTUs,  this 
fubilance  approaches  neareft  to  the  die  metals  in  fpedfic 
gravity.  It  has  even  been  prcfumed  to  be  of  a  metaliic  na- 
ture. No  metal,  however,  has  yet  been  extraded  from  it» 
i>or  has  it  ever  been  applied  to  any  ufe^ore  profitable,  than 
as  a  ilux,  to  facilitate  the  fufion  of  the  ores  of  mctaU. 

Threes. — ^There  Is  a  filvcr  fir  at  Woodhoufelee,  which  is 
the  elded  tree  of  its  fpccies  in  Mid  Lothian,  and  has  always 
b;;en  adjured  for  its  fize  and  beauty.  It  was  planted  in  a 
dry  fpil,  in  a  garden,  about  the  firft  year  of  the  prefent  cen- 
tury. In  March  1759,  at  4  feet  above  the  ground,  it  raea- 
furcd  7  feet  4^  inches  in  circumference.  In  March  1793, 
at  the  fame  height,  it  meaiiired  1 1  feet  i  ^  inches.  During 
ihefe  33  years,  it  therefore  increafed  in  circumference  45 
inches.  Its  greatcft  growth  was  in  the  year  1760,  when  it 
increafed  precifcly  2  inches.  During  all  the  other  years,  its 
incrcafe  in  circumference  was  from  one  inch,  to  i^  inch  an- 
nually. This  fine  tree,  however,  is  now  upon  the  decay.  It 
is  afcertained,  from  other  inftanccs,  that  the  age  of  the  filver 
fir,  is  limited,  in  this  country,  to  within  a  century.  It  is  in 
its  grcateft  per  feci  ion,  when  about  80  years  old  ;  and  if  plac- 
ed in  a  proper  fituation,  it  is  capable,  during  all  that  period, 
of  increafing  upon  an  average,  above  a  cubic  foot  of  wood  an- 
Bjually.  From  fome  full  grown  trees  of  diis  kind,  lately  fel- 
led 


of  Glencrojs.  4551 

led  in  the  South  of  Scotland,  it  appeared,  thit  the  timber  is 
•more  valuable  and  ufeful  than  has  generally  been  fuppofcd. 

About  the  year  1700,  there  had  alfo  been  planted  at  Wood- 
houfelee,  and  at  Greenlaw  in  this  parifli,  a  confiderable  num- 
ber of  laburnums.  Some  of  them  were  cut  in  the  year  1761, 
and  afforded  a  plank  from  to  to  14  inches  in  breadth,  of 
very  beautiful  timber.  At  both  pLiccs,  thefe  trees  j^rew  \\\ 
a  high  part  of  the  country,  in  a  meagre  foil,  and  in  an  ex- 
pofed  fituation.  When  they  came  to  be  worked  into  furni- 
ture?, a  remarkable  difference  appeared,  in  the  quality  of  their 
wood,  compared  to  that  of  laburnums  of  the  fiinic  age,  which 
grew  at  Panmure  in  Forfarfhire,  in  a  rich  foil,  and  in  a  low 
and  (heltered  fituation  :  carved  work,  in  tlie  Panmure  labur- 
num, was  executed  by  the  cabinet  maker  with  tlie  ordluary 
tools  ;  but  in  the  Woodhoufelee.  and  Grccnhw  laburnum,  it 
required  the  affiflancc  of  ftc^l  files,  from  the  greater  clofencfs 
and  hardnefs  of  the  wood. 
t 

Ahimah- — ^The  red  fqUirrel  {fc'mrvs  vulgaris  rufiH  of  .Lin- 

n?eus,)  has  become  extremely  common  of  late  years.  In  this 
neighbourhood,  the  woods  abound  with  them,  and  they  arc 
pretty  numerous  at  Woodhoufelee.  Though  a  beautiful  ani- 
mal, they  are  dcHruftivc  of  the  fmall  birds,  by  devouring; 
their  eggs,  and  are  extremely  injurious  to  young  pbnting,  by 
croping  and  barking  the  tender  flioots.  Tlie  larch  tree  fuffer? 
particularly  from  this  animal. 

In  the  year  1749,  when  the  coal  was  worked  at  Newhall, 
in  the  neighbouring  parifh  of  Pennycuick,  it  was^  remarked 
that  the  coalliers  houfcs,  and  other  cottages,  in  which  no- 
thing was  burnt  but  coal,  abounded  with  bugs.  In  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  that  coal,  there  was  plenty  of  peat  mof?,  and 
there,  as  it  happens  in  other  parts  of  Scotland,  many  of  the 
cottagers  chofe  rather  to  ufe  peat  than  coal  for  their  fuel. 

Itt 


440  -   St(UiJik^l  Account 

In  thofe  houfcs  ta  whkh  peac  only  was  buf  nt»  the  bug  oe^cf 
appeared,  though  they  were  immediately  adjacent  to  houfetf 
where  coal  was  burnt,  and  in  whi<ih  the  vnitfk  prevailed. 

In  the  year  1 759,  when  the  coal  was  worked  on  Olencrofs 
muir,  and  in  Goukly  mois,  in  this  pariih,  the  fame  thing  was 
obfcrved.  The  houfes  of  the  lower  people,  who  only  ufed 
coal,  were  infcfted  with  bugs  ;  while  thofe  in  which  peat  and 
turf  ferved  as  the  only  fuel,  were  entirely  free. 

1  he  burning  of  peat  in  Edinbutgh,  came  to  be  a  fort  of  re- 
ceipt againft  bu;7s,  though  it  does  not  appear  to  harcbe^nof 
much  avail.  If  peat  fmoak  ;$  at  all  a  remedy  againft  them, 
it  appears  only  to  be  fo,  where  no  ether  fuel  is  ufed  but  peat  5 
and  where  the  fmoak  is  at  liberty,  as  is  ufually  the  cafe  where 
peat  IB  burnt,  to  pervade  the  whole  houfe. 

It  i«  indeed  remarkable,  that  the  bqg  prevails  only  in  thoie 
towns  and  parts  of  Scotland,  where  coal  is  burnt ;  "^nd  that 
it  is  unknown  in  the  towns  and  diftrifts,  where  peat,  tUrf,  or 
wood,  are  the  only  fuel.  Some  towns  and  villages  of  thi«« 
kind,  though  they' have  always  had  much  commtmicatiou 
with  Edinburgh  and  Glafgow,  by  means  of  goods,  furniture,- 
baggage,  and  apparel,  ftill  remain  uninfefled  with  bugs-  This 
would  infinuatc,  that  they  poflTcfs  fomc  antidote  agakilt  thefe 
vermin.  That  this  antidote  is  the  fmoak  of  the  peat  fuel,- 
is  not  improbable ;  but  that  it  really  is  fo,  has  not  been  fuf- 
*  ficiently  afcertained. 

Hotise-rf^Mnir  Market. — There  is  a  market  fot  fliccp  at 
Houfc-of-Muir,  at -two  feafons  of  the  year,  in  the  end  of 
March  and  beginning  of  April  5  and  there  is  a  market  for 
ewes  with  lamb.  They  come  from  Galloway  and  tlie  South- 
em  counties,  and  are  bought  up  by  the  Mid-Lothian  and 
Eaft-  Lothian  farmers.  In  the  end  of  Odlobcr,  there  is  3 
market  for  fat  (hecp  from  the  fame  counties,  which  are 

bought 


bfXitencrofs.  441 

WgKt  t>y  the  Edinburgh  and  Dalkeith  butchers,  during  the 
whole  fummer  %  kmbs  arc  to'be  bought  about  the  be  ginning 
of  the  week.  The  cuftom  drawn  from  this  market  is  paid  to 
the  family  of  Glencrofs,  and  the  town  of  Edinburgh. 

jintiquities . — ^There  arc  fome  vcftiges  of  camps  at  Caftlc- 
law,  from  which  the  place  has  probably  taken  its  name.  At 
Rullion  green,  was  fought  the  battle  of  Fendand-hilli  in  No.- 
vembcr  aSth  1666.  A  ftone  is  crefted  in  memory  of  this  bat*" 
'  tic,  with  a  rude  infcription.  Old  Woodhoufelcff  was  former- 
ly the  property  aild  refidence  of  Hamilton  of  Bothwell-haugh^ 
and  it  was  from  this  houfe  that  the  Regent  Murray  turned  out 
the  Lady  of  Hamilton  to  the  inclemency  of  the  fcafon  \  the 
refentitient  of  which  was  the  caufe  of  the  Regent^s  death.  A- 
bout  a  hundred  and  thirty  years  ago,  the  tower  of  Fulford^ 
which  was  likewife  a  place  of  great  antiquity,  was  repaired  from 
the  ftones  of  this  houfe,  and  took  the  name  of  Woodhoufelee* 
It  is  the  property  of  Alexander  Frafer  Tytler,  Efq;  Judges 
Advocate  of  North  Britkiin^ 

Eccieftaftical  Siati. — ^There  ate  fix  heritors  in  this  pari(h« 
Mr  Frafer  Tytler  is  patron.  The  (Upend  is  35L  8s.  id* 
in  money,  ten  bolls  two  firlots  and  two  pecks  of  barley, 
feven  bolls  two  firlots  and  two  pecks  of  meal,  and  ten 
bolls  of  oats.  The  manfc,.  which  was  built  withiii  thefc 
30  years,  was,  this  year,  179  J,  repaired  in  a  very  complete 
manner,  and  is,  at  prefent,  a  very  commodious  and  comfort- 
able dwelling.  The  glebe,  with  the  garden,  which  is  a  good 
one,  con  fids  of  nearly  five  acres  of  ground,  together  with  the 
privilege  of  grazing  a  cow  with  one  farmer,  and  ten  (heep  or 
a  cow  with  another.  The  poor  are  fupported  from  the  col- 
lections at  the  church  door,  from  the  dues  from  marriages,  and 
..mort-cloth,  and  from  the  intereft  of  20I.  at  4  per  cent-  The 
Vol.  XV.  3  L  number 


44?  Statijlieal  ActeuHt 

number  of  poor  in  this  pariQi  is  fmall.  Two  only,  have,  fW 
fome  time  pafl,  been  upon  die  roll. 

MifcelLneoHS. — ^The  advantages  peculiar  to  this  parifli,  arc 
its  vicinity  to  Edinburgh,  the  goodnefs  of  the  roads,  and  the 
neighbourhood  of  good  coal.  There  are  no  difeafes  peculiar 
to  tliis  parilh.  The  people,  in  general,  are  very  healthy. 
Thcr^:  are,  hovircver,  no  in  Aances  of  remarkable  longevity. 

It  is  not  unworthy  cf  particular  remark,  that  the  fcene  of 
that  beautiful  paftoral,  The  Gentle  Shepherd^  is  generally  fuppof- 
ed  to  have  been  laid  in  this  pariih.  Thete  is  certainly  a  very 
ftrift  coincidence  between  the  adlual  fcenery  of  this  part  of 
the  country^  and  the  local  circumilances  mentioned  in  the 
poem.  The  general  defcription  of  the  fcene,  as  given  at  the 
beginning  of  the  paftoral,  is  "  A  fliepherd's  village  and  fields, 
"  fome  few  miles  from  Edinburgh."  The  Weft-Port,  meri- 
tioned  in  the  firft  fcene  a»  the  road  from  the  village  to  maf- 
ket,  fixes  the  bearing  of  the  country  to  the  vicinity  of  tbe 
Pentland  hills. '  The  fiift  fcene  is 

**  Beneath  the  fouth-ftJe  of  a  craigy  bield^ 

**  Where  cf^Ral fpirings  tife  hahfome  waters  yield  ;'* 

As  the  fccond  is, 

"  Aflovjry  hoivra^  tetiueen  twa  verdant  brats ^ 
•'  A  trotting  burnie  wlmpling  thro*  the  ground^ 

No  defcription  could  more  exaftly  chcirafterlfc  -the  fcenciy 
in  tlic  neighbourhood  of  Woodhoufclce,  and  Boghall  burns. 
A  romantic  fall  at  the  head  of  Glencrofs  v.^atcr  is  termed,  at 
this  day,  **  Habh/s-hoio*^  The  ancient  tower  of  Fulford, or 
Woodhoufclce,  repaired  immediately  after  the  civil  wars,  and 
formerly  the  nianfion  houfe  of  a  knight  *,  may  well  counten- 

•ir  William  Parvctbii  M|jcfty*i  Stollidiw. 


ofGlencrcJi.  443 

aiiCC  the  fuppofition  of  Ramfay^s  having  here  fixed  the  imagi- 
nary rcfidence  of  his  Sir  William  Worthy.  After  all,  howe- 
ver, this  appropriation  miift  be  allowed  to  be  crulrely  conjec- 
tural, and  to  reft  more  upon  fancy,  pleafing  itfelf  in  clothing 
its  own  piftures  in  the  garb  of  reality,  than  upon  any  bafis* 
of  evidence.  This  at  leaft  may  certainly  be  affirmed,  that  if 
the  poet  intended  at  all  to  appropriate  the  fcenery  of  his  paf-. 
toial,  farther  than  to  the  general  afpe£l  of  the  country  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  Pentland  hills,  there  are  no  a£lual  fcenes 
which  fo  perfeAly  correfpond  to  his  defcriptions,  as  thofe  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  Woodhoufelce. 

•  Emnent  JlfrA.-r-Theic  were  two  gentlemeti,  formerly  of^ 
ihis  t>art(h»  whofe  names  well  deferve  tq  be  recordedj  in  a  pa* 
rochial  account  of  this  kind. 

William  Tytler,  Efq;  of  Woodhoufelce,  writer  to  hi* 
Majefty's  Sign^t^  and  vice^prefident  of  the  fociety  of  Scottifti 
Antiquafri^.  His  Enquiry  itito  the  EvidtneeagainflMary  ^ieen 
9f  Scots,  is  allowed  to  be  one  of  the  moft  mafteriy  pieces  o£ 
biftorical  criticifm  :  and  has  been  the  means  of  producing  a 
very  general  alteratioii«  iri  the  opinion  of  the  world,  concern- 
ing the  €ondu£l  and  charafker  of  that  unfortunate  Princ^fs. 
Befides  hiftorical  re&avches,  he  w:as  alfo  remarkable  for  his  ex- 
tenfive  learning  and  ex/cellent  tafte,  in  otlicr  branches  of  the 
belles  lettres.  He  xefcued  from  oblivion  that  valuable  fragment 
of  antiquity,  the  King's  ^tah^  a  poem  written  by  James  I.  of 
Scotland,  during  his  captivity  in  England.  This  remarkable 
poem,  written  near  400  year-s  ago,  is  mentioned  by  fpme jold 
writers,  but  was  fuppofed  to  be  loft.  Mr  Ty tier,  was  fp  fortu- 
nate as  to  difcover  it  imong  the  Stldenian  M.  S.  S«  in  the.Bod-r 
kian  library,  and  printed  it  for  the  firft  time,  in  the  year  1 783, 
accompanied  with  a  very  learned  and  judicious  commeiitary« 
X^ci^  are  two  fine  Scots  poems,  formerly  of  uncertain  ori- 

"ihx  that 


444  Statijikal  Account 

gin,  Thi  Eagle  and  Rotin  Rtd^breqft  and  The  Vifiony  which, 
from  careful  enquiry,  he  reftored  to  their  genuine  author,  Al- 
lan Ramfay.  From  perfonal  knowledge,  he  alfo  afcribcd  to 
that  poet,  the  whole  merit  of  the  Gfnile  Shepherd^  of  whichj^ 
by  detra£tion  or  by  midake,  he  had  been  in  part  deprived. 

Mr  Tytler  was  no  lefs  confpicuous  for  his  fcience  and  tafte 
in  mufic*  His  diflertation  on  the  Scottifli  mufic,  is  the  work 
of  a  mafter  in  that  fine  art.  He  was  one  of  the  firft  and  mod 
ssealous  promoters  of  the  gentlemen 'S  concert  at  Edinburgh : 
A  public  entertainment,  which,  for  liberality  and  elegance,  is 
not  perhaps  excelled  in  any  other  great  city.  In  his  younger 
years,  he  ufed  himfelf  to  be  a  performer  in  that  ailembly,  on 
his  favourite  inftrument,  the  German  flute.  The  crouded  fu- 
neral concert  after  his  death,  which  was  the  higheft  exertion 
of  the  art  in  this  country,  (howed  the  fincere  and  deep  regret 
pf  the  puUic,  fDr  the  lofs  of  this  excellent  man. 

In  Mr  Tytler,  the  man  of  letters,  and  tlie  man  of  bufincfs, 
were  happily  united.— A  union,  which  has  generally  produ- 
ced fome  oir  the  greateft  and  beft  chara£lers  in  life.  -To  fu- 
perior  abilities  in  the  profeffion  of  the  law,  he  added  the  moft 
unfpotted  integrity.  Keen  he  was,  and  refentful,  againft  e« 
very  thing  that  was  bafe  or  diflionourable :  But  an  ardent 
friend  to  every  thing  that  was  good,  and  efpecially  to  unbo- 
firiended  merit.  His  pietyi  and  his  virtues  in  every  relation 
pf  life,  were  weU  known  to  his  numerous  private  friends, 
who  will  ever  have  them  in  remembrance. 

James  Ph  jlp,  Efq*,  of  Greenlaw,  in  this  parifli,  was  educa- 
ted as  a  lawyer  under  Heineccius,  Vitriarius,  and  other  emt« 
nent  civilians,  in  Germany  and  Holland.  Soon  after  his 
tetum  from  abroad,  he  was  appointed  judge  of  the  High 
Court  pf  Admiralty.  His  profound  knowledge  in  maritime 
Uw,  piaWcd  him  to  ejtecute  this  oflicei  for  many  years,  with 

much 


tfGlencrofs.  445 

much  advantage  to  his  country,  and  with  much  honour  to 
himfelf.  He  was  a  man  iioted  and  beloved^  for  the  mildnds 
and  urbanity  of  his  mind  and  manners  \  but  he  was  a  man 
alfo  of  deep  difcernment,  and  of  inflexible  reflftude. 

In  the  year  17549  the  prefent  Admiral  Sir  Hugh  Pallifer 
was  commander  of  the  Sea  Horfe  man  of  war^  lying  in  the 
road  of  Leith.  A  man,  lunder  indentures  as  an  apprentice, 
had  been  eniifted  as  a  feilor,  on  board  this  fhtp.  On  petition 
from  his  mafter,  and  on  produ£lion  of  the  indenture,  Judge 
Philp  granted  a  warrant  to  bring  the  man  alhore  to  be  ex- 
amined. A  macer  of  court  went  aboard  to  apprehend  him ; 
but  was  told  by  Captain  Pallifer,  that  he  confidered  himfelf 
as  fubjcft  only  to  the  law  of  England ;  and  that  he  ^would 
not  fuifer  the  man  to  go  a(hore;  Upon  this,  the  macer,  with 
his  blazon  on  his  bread,  brbke  his  wand  of  peace,  and  re- 
ported this  illegal  a£l  of  deforcement  to  the  Admiralty  court. 
The  judge  then  granted  warrant  to  apprehend  Captain  Pal- 
lifer himfelf,  to  bring  him  from  aboard  his  (hip  \  and  to ' 
commit  him  to  prifon,  which  was  accordingly  done.  Next 
^ay^  he  was  brought  into  court  \  and,  on  refufmg  to  fubmit  to 
its  jurisdiflion,  becaufe  he  held  his  commifGon  from  the 
Board  of  Admiralty,  he  was  again  remanded  to  prifon,  th^re 
to  remain,  till  liberated  in  courfe  of  law. 

When  the  cafe  was  reported  by  the  Earl  of  JFindlater,  then 
Lord  High  Admiral  of  Scotland,  to  chance^or  Hardwicke, 
that  great  ornament  of  the  law,  aitd  of  human  nature,  the 
chancellor  (aid,  '^  he  was  a  bold  judge  who  had  done  this  ; 
but  he  had  done  what  was  right."  This  jull  and  high  toned 
decifion,  from  a  man  fo  gentle  and  amiable  as  Mr  Philp,  was 
followed  with  the  univerfal  approbation  and  gratitude  of  his 
pountry.  It  rcfcmbled  in  this,  the  behaviour  of  the  excel- 
lent 


44^  Stattftical  Account 

lent  Lord  Chief  Jufticc  Holt,  who, .  in  his  court  of  King's 
bench,  ordered  the  fpeaker  of  the  Houfe  of  Commons,  with 
a  committee  jt  his  back,  to  take  himfelf  away,  otherwife  he 
would  commit  him  to  Newgate,  though  he  (hould  have  the 
whole  Houfe  of  Commons  in  his  belly.  It  is  the  peculiar 
glory  of  this  nation,  that  the  laws  are,  «s  they  ought  always 
to  be,  predominant  over  every  other  power,  fuperior  to  the 
executive  \  and  to  any  individual  branch  of  the  Legiflatur^,. 


NUMBER 


bfAlford.  447 


NUMBER    XXIL 


PARISH  OF  ALFORD, 


(Presbytery  of  Alford*  County  and  Synod  of  Aber- 
deen. ) 


By  the  Rev.  Mr  Thomas  Birnie,  Minister. 


Name  and  Situatiort. 

JN  o  accoants,  but  fuch  as  are  merely  conjeQure,  can  be 
given  of  the  origin  of  the  name  of  this  parifh^  though  it  bears 
the  fame  with  the  prcfbytery,  and  a  confiderable  trad  of 
circumjacent  country.  Some  fay,  that  the  name  has  arifen 
from  the  circumdance  of  the  river  Don,  (which  is  the  northern 
boundary  of  the  parifh,  and  which  runs  through  the  whole 
length  of  the  county  called  Alford,)  being  almoft  every  where, 
in  this  pan  of  its  courfe,  fordable,  when  in  its  ordinary  fizc. 
Others  maintain,  that  the  church  was  built  upon  a  deferted 
part  of  the  bed  of  the  Lochel,  a  fmall  river  which  paiTes  Tcry 
n^ar  it^  and  where  there  had  been  anciently  a  ford ;  and, 

from 


44^  Stattjlical  Account 

from  that  circumftancei  auldfuirie  came  to  be  the  name  o^ 
the  church  and  parilh  ;  both  thefe  derivations  feem  to  be  of 
modern  date,  and  entirely  dcpcnderit  upon  the  prefent  man- 
ner of  fpeUing ;  for  the  names  of  almoft  all  other  places  in 
this  county  are  of  Gaelic  original ;  and  the  name  of  the  pa- 
rifti,  in  records  two  hundred  years  dd,  is  written  Awfurde, 
an  orthography  which  correfponds  with  the  prefent  pronoun- 
ciation^ 

The  county  of  Alford  is  (ituated  from  20  to  31  miles 
Weft  from  Aberdeen  \  and  befides  the  parifli  of  that  name, 
which  is  the  largefti  and  the  fubje£k  of  this  accoont,  com- 
prehends four  other  pariflies,  Forbes,  Keig,  Gillynefsle,  and 
Tough.  It  is  furrounded  on  every  fide  by  hills  and  moun-^ 
tains,  and  there  is  no  entrance  to  it,  but  by  afcending  con- 
fiderable  heights  to  gain  the  hollow  pafles  between  them. 
On  the  South,  it  is  bounded  by  Coueny  $  ^  on  the  Eaft  by 
Menoway  or  Cainwilliam  ;  on  the  North  Eaft,  and  North,  by 
Bennachee  *,  and  the  hills  of  Careen ;  and  on  the  Weft  by 
Calievar'  Theflb  boundaries  contain  a  country  which,  reckon* 
ing  from  the  brows  of.  the  oppofite  mountains,  is  about  1 1 
niks  in  lengthy  and  from  4  to  6  in  breadth.  A  confiderable 
portion  of  this  fpace  is  a  level  country,  efpeci;illy  in  the  low- 
er 'parts ;  but  the  iatnefs  is  every  where  varied  by  gentU 
fwells,  and  eminences,  which  in  the  upper  parts  rife  to  great- 
er height.  The.  climate  of  this  country  can  neither  be  faid 
to  be  very  wet  or  very  dry.  Its  diftance  from  the  ocean  oc- 
cafions  more  intenfe  frofts,  and  longer  lying  fiiows  ;  but,  on 
the  other  hand,  that,  and  the  furrounding  mountains,  proteA 
and  covGr  this  country  /rom  the  North  Eaft  fogs  and  winds, 
which  ate  fo  unfavourable  to  vegetation  in  lefs  ftieltered  fici^- 
ations,  and  places  which  are  upon  the  coaft.    Befides  feveral 

inferior 

.    %  Both  ancicntlj  royal  forrefti. 


ofAlford.  449 

Inferior  ftreams,  Alford  is  watered  by  the  Don,  a  tiver  of 
Tome  fize,  which,  gufhing  thrbugh  a  narrow  gullet,  between 
the  mountciirts  on  the  Wefti  winds  it3  courfe  in  a  direftion 
iFrom  Weft  to  Eaft,  through  tlie  whole  length  of  the  coun- 
try, and,  after  adorning  feveral  gentlemen's  feats  on  its 
•banks,  flows  away  throu;;h  a  narrow  valleys  encompaffcd 
on  the  Nonhj  by  Bennachie,  which  rifes  up  into  high  and 
magnificent  Alpine  tops. 

Thep.irifti  of  Alford  is  in  length,  from  South- Weft  to 
North- Eafi,  from  7  to  S  Euglilh  miles;  and  from  3  to  be- 
tween 4  and  5  in  breadth.  It  contains  nearly  8oco  Scotch  a- 
crcs  ;  of  which  there  may  be  3600  ar;iblc,  37CO  of  hill,  muif, 
tnofs,  and  pafture  grounds,  and  about  700  of  woods.  Thefc 
laft  confilt  of  pfanted  Scotch  Srs,  intermixed  with  larixes, 
beeches,  oaks,  allocs,  birks^,  and  dvhcr  tree$  of  different  agcs| 
bcfides  a  good  deal  of  grouai  limber  about  gentle cnen's  feats j 
and  the  tenant's  yards. 

S^i/-— The  foil  on  the  banks  bf  the  Don,  is  generally  a  good 
light  loam,  very  fit  for  corn  crops,  but  better  adapted  for 
grafs,  btcaufe  orf  the  mildews  arifing  from  the  river,  which 
are  hurtful  to  grain,  efpecially  to  barley.     In  the  Eaftem 
puts  of  the  pirifti,  the  foil  is  in  fome  places  a  good  deep 
Ibam,  in  others,  a  ftrong,  but  workable  clay,  and  fometimes 
a  mixture  of  both.     In  this  quarter j  and  the  adjoining  parish 
bf  Tough,  there  was  fornierly  a  large  marQi,  nOw  called  the 
Strath  of  Tough,  or  Kincraigic,  which  was  partially  drained 
in  the  end  of  Ihc  laft  Century,  when  the  proprietor*  arc  faid 
to  have  gained  immcnfely,  by  the  rich  crops  which  this  itew 
foil  produced.     Tliat  part  of  :t  which  lies  within  this  parilh, 
is  moflfy ;  and,  though  there  are  fome  ftrOng  clay  lands  in  it, 
they  have,  in  general,  a  confider^ble  mixture  of  mofs.     All 
thefc  foils  of  lands,  wliich,  in  this  country,  are  calicd  laighs^ 
or  laigh  lands,  yield  precarious  corn  crop*?,  as  their  wetnefa 
NJolXV.  3M  and 


450  Statijlical  Account 

and  lowncfs  fubj<t£ls  them,  in  late  feafons>  to  froft  \  but  the/ 
would  make  esccellent  meadows,  if  they  were  propedy^  drained. 
All  the  mofles  ly  in  tliis  quarter  of  the  parifti^  and  they 
are  very  much  wore  out.  The  largeft,  called,  for  its  extent, 
themeikle  mofs^  was  accidentally  fired,  about  1730,  in  the 
fummer  feafon,  and  beinu  unluckily  very  dry-  at  the  time,  was 
nearly  confumed.  I'he  remains  of  it  now  afford  no  better 
' '  fuel  than  turfs,  which  are  vety  clayey,  and  not  only  give,  but 
retain  a  ftrong  heat.  The  foils  in  the  centre  and  weftem 
parts  of  the  parifii,  are  dry  and  light,  fometimes  of  a'  deep^ 
fometimes  of  a  (hallow  ftaple,  well  adapted  for  lime,  and 
the  turnip  husbandry,  and  no  lefs  fit,  with  pr(^r  cultivation 
and  manure,  for  raifitig  heavy  crops  of  corn  and  grafs.  1  he 
mod  wefterly  parts  are  hill  grounds,  and,  with  proper  ma« 
nagement,  would  make  pretty  good  (heep  walks. 

Farms* — ^The  fize  of  farms  it,  is  di^ult  to  average,  as 
they  diifer  prodigiouily  from  one  another,  not  only  in  the 
whole  extent,  but  alfo  in  the  quantity  of  the  different  foils 
of  land  which  make  up  a  farm  in  that  country  \  and  they  are 
in  general  fliil  under  the  old  divifions,  with  very  irregular 
marches,  as  when  antiquated  notions  of  convenience,  and  no 
idea  of  inclofing,  or  regular  fields,  were  in  view.  The  rents 
run  from  60I.  and  70I.  to  7I.  or  81.  for  thofe  who  are  accounted 
farmers*  Under  that  rent,  the  poflcflbrs  of  land  are  cropers, 
who  frequently,  howcvejr,  have  cattle  fuQicient  to  work  a 
plough.  A  confiderabie  part  of  the  rent  is  paid  in  vi£i:ual, 
by  the  farmers,  and  fometimes  even  by  tlh:  cropers  j  and " 
they  are  in  general  dcfirous  enough  to  convert  the  vlfbual 
into  money,  though  tliey  will. rarely  give  it's  value.  Mul* 
tares  have  generally  been  changed  into  paid  rents,  and  the 
tenants  only  pay  knavefliips  to  the  miller,  befides  the  ufual 
miU  fervices.  They  arc  bound  likewifc  to  deliver  poultry,  &c. 

•    for 


ofAlford.  ^         *  45 1 

for  which  they  are  paid  at  an  old  convcrGon,  which  is  from 
3/yd.  to  fid.  for  a  hen,  and  fo  in  proportion.  On  fome  c- 
ftatesi  the  tenants  are  ftill  bound  to  perform  ferviccs,  fuch 
as  ploughinjr,  cafting  and  carrying  peats,  carriages,  &c. ;  but 
as  they  are  rarely,  or  very  few  of  them,  at  lead,  exacted,  the 
tenants  are  not  deGrous  to  convert  them  into  money  ;  and, 
in  general,  they  would  give  nothing  in  lieu  of  them.  On 
one  eftate  in  the  parifl),  the  barony  of  Alford,  the  cotters 
and  fub-tenants  pajr  for  their  houfes  and  firing,  to  thc'land- 
lord  only,  aTeek  hen,  and  one  day's  (hearing  in  harvcft. 
Leafes  were  formerly  granted  for  long  terms,  and  for  lives ; 
but  thty  do  not  feem  to  have  given  any  fpur  to  the  induftry 
©f  the  people  :  When  a  Icafe  dropped  lad  Whitfudday,  which 
had  been  granted  in  1743,  the  fon  of  the  original  tenant  re- 
fufcd  to  give  the  fame  rent  for  the  poffeffion,  which  had  be,en 
fo  long  paid.  Now,  when  improvements  are  commencing, 
they  might  be  perhaps  more  beneficial ;  but,  at  prefent,  no 
leafes  longer  than  19  years,  are  granted,  and  frequently  they 
do  not  exceed  1 1  dr  i  j. 

Agriculture. — ^In  this  quarter  of  the  country,  all  the  old- 
fafiiioned  prejudices  of  husbandry  are  ftill  looked  upon  as 
fare  and  infallible  rules  of  good  management ;  for  no  differ- 
ences in  extent  of  poffeffion,  or  in  rent,  make  any  difference 
in  the  plans  or  exertions  of  the  farmer  \  and  all  poffeffors  of 
land,  of  whatever  defcripti^^n,  purfue  the  fame  methods,  and 
almoil  entirely  in  the  fame  manner. 

As  agriculture  is,  perhaps,  in  this  country,  in  as  low  a 
(late' as  in  any  other  part  of  Scotland,  that  has  the  advantage' 
of  a  good  foil,  and  not  an  unfavourable  climate,  it  may  not 
be  improper  to  detail  die  mode  of  management  pra£Ufed 
here,  which,  it  is  believed,  has  at  one  time  or  other  prevail- 
ed, even  in  thofe  parts  of  the  kingdom,  which,  by  the  pro- 

3  M  2  grefs 


45  ^  Stalls tical  Acc(^ukt 

grofe  of  impTovcment,  are  now  fo  well  cultivated  and  fo  ppo- 
du£liye.  Such  a  detail,  while  it  prefcnts  the  real  ftatc  of 
this  country  to  the  reader,  iviil,  at  the  fame  time,  hold  forth 
a  pidure  of  the  former  ft.ite  of  Scotland  j  and,  by  compart- 
fon  with  what  it  prefcntly  is,  (hew  that  agriculture  has  arifen, 
from  themSdft  ofpttjudkea,  fupported  by  popular  opinion^ 
and  fauAioned  by  long  habit,  to  be  an  art  pradifed  upon 
reafonable  principles,  founded  upon  f^ds  and  experiments ; 
and  t}xx%  the  time  may  come,  wlicn  the  ftrength,  and 
wealth,  and  power  of  the  natip  «,  will,  by  the  refourc^s  of 
the  foil,  and  attention  to  the  intercfts  of  agriculture,  be  raifcd 
to  the  higheft  pitch  of  which  they  are  capable. 

Every  farm  in  this  county,  is  compofed  of  knd  of  difier* 
cnt  qualities,  and  managed  in  different  manners,  which  arc 
diftinguiflied  by  the  names  of, — i.  Infield,  2.  Outlicld,  3* 
J^aigh'Unds,  4t  Pafturc-gromMs-  Of  thefe  diiEirent  fpe- 
cies  of  land,  there  are  no  fixed  proportions  for  a  farm.  The 
fmaller  pofleflions  and  crops  generidly  confift  altogether  of 
in- field  ;  but  all  the  more  confuicrablc  f;irms  muft  be  mad^ 
up  of  the  1  ft  and  2d  forts ;  and  thefe  are  many  who  have 
no  land  of  the  3d  or  4th  defcription ;  and  there  arc  fomc 
which  ate  compofed  of  all  the  4  different  kinds. 

The  in-field  or  in-town  lands,  arc  conftantly  in  white 
crop,  unltfs  when  the  farm  has  very  little  or  very  bad  pafr 
ture,  and  then,  perhaps,  a  ridge  or  two  is  krft  untilied,  iq 
throw  up  the  weeds  which  ages  have  no^riflicd  in  it,  to  main* 
tain  the  farmers  cattle.  One  third  of  it  is  regularly  manured 
yearly,  with  all  the  dung  of  cme  year's  gathering  \  and  rr  -s, 
in  three  years,  all  the  in- field  on  a  farm  has  been  once  du  j- 
ed.  The  in-field  land  is  generally  all  ftirrcd  immediately  af- 
ter harvcft,  and  the  dunged  third  part  is  again  ploughed  in 
fpring,  and  fown  with  bear  about  the  beginning  of  May,  and 
Uiis  crop  is  fuccecded  by  two  crops  of  oats,  fown  upon  the 

lyintct 


^J  Alford.  453 

wlnterfurrcw>  as  foon  as  the  feafonWl permit^  u:hen  the  land 
comes  again  m  courfe  to-  be  manuredi  and  undergoes  the  fame 
rotation.  The  in- field  land  is  generally  an  excellent  foil,  (ul) 
of  manure,  buft  (locked  .with  dcftruAive  weeds,  of  which 
wild  cats  and  knotrgrafs  are  among  the  worft.  Without  the 
intenfention  of  grafs  and  green  crops,  to  dcftroy  the  weeds 
and  recruit  the  foil,  the  produce  of  the  corn  crops  cannot  be 
fuppofed  to  be  in  any  proportion  to  the  goodnefb  of  the  hnd^ 
An  average,  in  tolerable  feafons,  will  not  exceed  from  4  to  5 
boUs/tfr  acre.    . 

Tlie  outfield  lands  are  managed  in  diSerent  ways,  either 
by  folding  or  croping,  without  manure,  or  by  water  falling. 
This  laft  method  can  be  pra£iifed  only  in  particular  fitua- 
tions»  having  the  command  of  water,  and  where  the  ground 
hangs  confiderably  ^1  to  admit  of  fpreading  the  water  eafily 
over  it  J  and  it  is  intended  to  fertilize  the  foil,  for  a  fuccef- 
fion  of  three  or  four  crops  of  oats.  Though  no  great  care 
or  attention  is  beftowed^  in  fpreading  the  water  equally,  che 
firft  and  fecond  crops  are  faid  frequently  to  equal  thofc  pro- 
duced on  the  fame  lands  by  liming ;  but  the  two  lad  arc,  as 
it  may  be  fuppofed,  equally  inferior.  After  thefe  corns  crops, 
the  land  is  left  lee  2  or  3  or  4  years,  to  get  a  fward  for  a- 
nother  watering,  and  fucceffion  of  grain  crops.  As  this  mode 
of  cultivation  is  limited  to  particultr  fpots,  out-field  lands  are 
more  generally  managed,  by  folding  and  croping,  without  any 
manure ;  and  their  extent,  and  the  (lock  of  cattle  which  the 
farmer  poffeiFes  on  the  padure  on  hie  farm,  will  enable  hiin 
to  keep  all  the  circumftances,  which  lead  him  to  follow  either 
of  thefe  methods.  Where  the  out- field  is  extenfive,  and  does 
not  produce  better  than  ordinary  grafs,  it  is  inipoflible  \r\ 

gencnil 

*  Land  U  w^atered  in  tbli  countf  for  croping,  and  meadow  groucds  are 
^cver  watered,  as  in  England,  for  paAure. 


454  Statijlical  Account 

general  to  fold  upon  the  whole,  unlcfs  the  pafture  grounds 
arc  of  a  proportionable  extent  ;  and  therefore  one  part  is 
folded  upon,  ^nd  the  other  is  not ;  and  where  the  out-field 
is  fmall,  it  cannot  be  divided  into  folds,  of  which  eleven  f  is 
accounted  by  the  farmers  of  this  country,  the  mod  proper 
number  for  their  rotation.  One  of  thcfe  folds  is  every  fum- 
mer  furrounded  with  a  fcal  (turf)  dyke,  and  the  cattle  aare 
inclofed  in  it  during  the  night,  till  after  hanreft,  when  the 
dyke  is  knocked  down  *,  the  land  is  ploughed,  and  left  ia  that 
ftate  all  winter.  In  fpring,  oats  are  fown  *,  and  as  foon  as  the 
crop  is  off  tlie  ground,  it  is  again  ploughed  for  a  fecond,  ani 
^  fo  on  till  it  has  hprnafive  %  fuccefTive  crops  of  oats ;  and  then 
it  is  left  five  years  lee,  to  throw  up  whatever  poor  grals  foch 
worn  out  foil  will  produce.  The  firfl:  two  years  the  grafs  is 
as  ^ad  as  pofllble  \  and  though,  during  the  other  three  it  thick<* 
ens,  yet  even  at  the  beft,  it  gives  but  a  fcanty  bite  to  the  cat* 
tie.  The  fath  year  it  is  again  folded  upon  and  dunged  i 
and  thus,  in  eleven  years,  where'the  number  of  folds  is  eleren, 
a  fold  is  5  years  in  com  crop,  5  lee,  and  one  in  preparing 
for  another  fimilar  fuccefiion.   The  out-field$,  which  are  no( 

dunged 

•f  This  number  is  thought  the  maR  proper,  where  5  fucceiuve  crops 
are  taken ;  but,  upoD  fame  farms,  the  out- fields  are  in  divifioos  of  9  smd  i« 
folds. 

I  It  is  faid  that  ^r^r  crops  only  of  oatSj  upon  toathed  or  dunged  out-ficld, 
/  were  idlowed  by  the  ancient  cudomary  law  of  Scotland ;  and  that  adtiotn  for 
dantajTci  lay  at  the  iaftance  of  the  landlord,  or  of  the  ioconsing  a^ainft  the 
outgoing  tenant,  if  he  injured  the  pofTcifion  by  a  more  fcvere  round  of  xrops,. 
Some  documents  of  the  ufe  of  this  adion,  are  faid  tQ  be  fliiL  cxtanr,  in  the  re- 
cords of  the  Sheriff  Court  of  Perth.  It  is  certain,  that  where  out  fields 
were  formerly  managed  by  folding,  and  where  they  flill  are  fo,  the  mod 
general  pra&ice  is  to  cake  three  crops  only.  In  fome  places,  fiye  crope  were 
l<tobab^y  allowed  of  old  by  the  landholders ;  and  the  record  of  a  court  of  the 
barony  of  Alford,  iith  May  I7^4i  affords  very  good  evidence  that  this  w^ 
tlu-  cafe  in  this  county. 


ofAlford.  455 

dunged  by  folding,  (or  as  it  is  here  called,  toathed,)  are  crop- 
ped with  oats,  nipon  the  fame  plan  as  thofe  that  are,  vrith  the 
difference  of  being  one  or  two  years  lefs  in  tillage,  and  one 
ortwo  more  lee.  Under  this  diviGonof  the  lands  on  a  farm 
in  this  county,  faughs  or  faughlands,  (a  corrupt  pronouncia- 
tion  of  fallow)  are  included.  They  are  ploughed  once  in 
fummer,  and  left  in  that  ftate  till  fpring,  when  they  are  fowa 
with  very  inferior  oats,  of  which  they  bear  three  or  four  foe* 
ceflive  crops  \  and  are  then  left  to  ths  operations  of  nature 
for  fereral  years,  to  recruit  them  for  another  period  of  tills^c. 
The  foil  of  out-field  land,  in  general,  is  inferior  to  that  of  in- 
field, only  by  the  difference  in  cultivation,  and  being  more 
ftony.  The  bad  ufage  of  the  untoathed  out-fields  a!nd  favghsy 
will  cafily  account  for  their  want  of  fertility,  in  raifing  grain 
crops  \  but  more  efpecially  in  producing  grafs^  the  badnefs 
and  poomefs  of  which  it  is  not  eafy  to  defcribe.  The  oats 
fown  upon  out- field  lands,  are  in  quality  according  to  the 
goodnefs  of  the  foil,  and  the  ftate  in  which  it  is.  In  the  beil 
dunged  folds,  the  white  oats,  and  in  the  inferior  lands,  and 
on  faughs,  grey  oats,  called  here  hairy  and  barley  com,  are 
generally  fown.  As,  after  folding,  the  land  is  only  once 
ploughed,  and  frequently  with  a  deep  fur,  the  dung  is 
buried  the  firft  year,  and  wofks  its  effcfls  on  the  fecond  and 
third  crops ;  and,  therefore,  the  firft  three  crops  are  nearly 
alike,  and  will  rarely  run  beyond  four  bolls  per  acre,  on  an 
average ;  and  for  the  two  la  ft  years,  they  dwindle  down  to 
betwixt  two  and  three,  and  often  lefs.  The  produce  of  the 
untoathed  out-fields,  is  much  inferior  in  quantity,  as  well  as 
quality ;  and  iridced  the  return  from  faughs  in  grain,  will 
fcldom  defray  the  expences  of  labour  and  feed  \  and  the  far- 
mers are  tempted  to  plough  them,  though  it  is  to  tleir  own 
k)fs,  merely  for  the  fake  of  the  fm?.Il  quantity  cf  ftraw  which 


451'  Statijlicdl  Accent 

they  yield  ;  and  bccaufc,  under  their  bad  management,  facfi 
lands  wilt  give  no  grafs. 

LiighUnds  are  in  genera!  a  ftrong  deep  hezry  foil,  and  in 
this  country  arc  either  alternately  in  oat  crop,  and  Ice,  or  2 
years  in  oats,  and  tine  or  two  in  lee.  In  dry  early  feafons^ 
they  give  good  crops  of  good  grain,  and  always  a  great  quan- 
tity of  draw ;  but  in  wet  and  late  harvefts  the  grain  is  never 
fit  for  feed,  and  fometimcs  not  good  enough  for  meal,  a&  thefc 
land?,  owing  to  iheir  latenefs  and  wetnefs,  (for  they  arc  not 
fufficiently  drained  in  this  country,)  are  liable  to  be  frofted 
before  the  corn  is  perfeflly  ripe.  They  howcYcr  through 
up  abundance  of  good  natural  grafs. 

Tlic  paflurc  lands  conCft  cither  of  benty  mair,  nurfhy 
grounds,  which  cannot  be  ploughed,  the  banks  of  rivers  and 
rivulets,  or  hil!  grounds.  Thcfe  lands  have  never  received  a- 
ny  manure  to  meliorate  thcm^  but  that  which  drops  from  the 
cattle  during  the  day  ;  but  they  have  for  centuries  been  waf- 
ted by  the  praftice  of  cutting  up  the  fv/ard  into  tuif,  for  the 
different  purpofcs  of  mixing  it  with  the  ftablc  and  byre  dungj 
(muck-fail*  •,)  of  building  the  walls  of  houfes,  when  it  is  cal- 
led 

•  Th^  pratflice  of  cutting  up  fward  for  manure  or  muck  Xwl,  was  prohibi- 
ted by  an  Ai^  of  Parliament,  made  fqr  the  county  of  Aberdeen,  as  long  ago 
as  1685,  under  a  penalty  of  icx:>l.  Scots  bolls,  totia  qu&tieSf  te  the  mafters  of 
the  ground ;  .and  in  cafe  of  their  negle^  to  execute  th«  Adl,  iHe  flierlfft  and 
ju (licet  were  enjoined  to  put  it  in  execution.  There  are  fiiU  many  places  in 
thit  county  where  thic  Uw  ihould  be  enforced.  Tills  A«£l  ibaws  th»t  the  Lc- 
f iflature  was,  even  in  thofc  timeS}  not  ignorant  of  the  bad  confequeoces  of 
cc.ntinual  {^raiil  crops,  and  tHe  want  of  proper  provender  for  cattle  in  winter, 
a:.  J  that  they  knew  green  crops  to  be  the  proptr  remedy  ;  for  it  conuins  an' 
eiUtftnacnt,  whereby  a  certain  proportion  of  the  in  Held  of  every  farm  (rala- 
allc  according  to  its  Highland  or  Lowland  fiiuation)  was  oidered  to  be  fowo 
^•Ith  peafe  yi*arly,  and  regulations  for  punilhing  perfons  vrho  fhould  Heal  ilfs 
pulfc.    P^afc  was  ih^*  ca!y  jjr^cn  crop  known  in  ihofc  umec. 


GfAI/ard.     \  457 

i^  fiul ;  pf  roofiag .  hoxS^^  ^feen  vthe  fward  is  pared  tjbini 
and  for  fiiel^  which  thcjr  call  travflg.  The  hill  grounds  have 
been  likcwiffi  -much  iJjU^h  injured  by  burnLng  the  hq^th  in 
iicprojfWT  feaibns .  and  pUces-,  sufid  no  pains  are  taken,  ereii 
where  the  Ctuation  will  admit  of  it,  to  cxtiq>ate  heath  hy  wa- 
teringi  A  confidctaUc  part  of.  the  pafture  lands  in  this  pa- 
riih,  might  be  made  good  sizable  foilj  by  idr^uidg,  %nd  ^he  o« 
tiher  means  of  intprovemcnt.  -The  hitt  gfQUpds  might,  by 
good  management,  bo!  greatly  biitterod  \  fi^d  thore  are  £cvera} 
tra£is.of  grouiid  iiriuch  fall  under  the  dixiiibo  of  paftur^  iand^ 
in  this  difttift,  that  are  0|&ly  fit  for  plauta^ws?  .     . 

Ill  this- county,  and  indeed  ^pfetty^gOQ^rally  over  this  coun^ 
try,  farmers  almoil  never  change  their  fcaed>  uGiig  always  the 
produce  of  their  own  £arh>s  J.btit  «hcy  «ie^  ^rfontepv^injS  td 
have  it  as  gc>od  and  foiihd  %t  the.  beft  of  thw  ($i^n  ^vith  re- 
peated' wihnowings  will  give;  .The  beft  o^ts  iii  this  country 
ace  of  ah  esccdietit  quabtf  i  for  ih.tQlerabte  fe^afons,  the  boll  f 
Will  yield  8  or  9  ftoneSi  dnd  €veii  mcH?9,of  m^ali  which  is 
ground  much  fmaller  and  better  fifted  than  in  the  South  of 
bcotlijmd.  The  gray  oats,  or  barley  corn,  neither  give  fo  mudi 
in  quantity^  nor  of  fuch  quality  ;  and  they  are  ibmetimes  fo 
bad,  as  to  require  two  boUS  to  produce  ei|^ht  ftones  of  mead, 
lii  fpring  17S3,  when  thece  was  great  reafon  to  apprehend 
that  the  crop  of  1782.  was  too  fcanty  and  faulty  to  afford  9- 
fufficiency  of  good  ieed,  a  cargo  of  fine  Dutch  oats  was  fent 
to  this  country  by  the  late  Mr  Farquharfon  of  Haughton,  for 
his  own  tenants  and  tlie  neighboursi  and  they  opntributed  to 
fecure  the  next  crop.  Thefe  oats  were;  however^  faid  to  de- 
generate by.badcultivatioii,  and  they  were  liable  to  Ifaake  be- 
fore they  were  pcrfcdly  ripe  ;  and  for  thefe  rcafoas  they  arc 
hot  now  fown;  .The  Montgomery  or  Magbiehill  oats  have 
-     Vol.  XV.  3N  been 

t  Our  boll  is  <>.767  per  cent,  better  than  the  Linlithgow  or  ftandard  mci- 
furfc.  .  . 


4S8  StaAJHcal  Account 

been  lately^  introduced  by  Mr  Leitfa  of  '^^itehangli,  opoit  Ki^ 
own  very  extenfive  farm,  in  the  neighbouring  patifli  of  TH** 
lynef&Ie ;  they  poilefs  the  advantage  of  ripening  three  weeks 
before  the  common  oat,  and  therefore  the  extenfion  of  thdr 
ufe  will  be  a  great  improvement. 

The  bear  grown  in  this  oountty  by  comknon  farniers»  is 
all  of  the  Scotch  kind ;  and  though  the  feed  is  procured  in  the 
fame  way  as  that  of  oats,  weighs,  in  general,  1 8  ftones  per 
boil  f  y  and  will,  in  particular  fituations  and  feafons,  even 
come  to  20  and  21  ftones.  A  confiderabk  quantity  of  meal 
and  bear,  probaUy  from  Soo  to  900  bolls,  is  annually  fent 
from  this  parrfh  to  Abardeea,.ouf  only  or  chief  market  for 
grain.  Bear  and  oatmeal  have  gi^en  good  {Hrices.of  late  years^ 
though  the  fmallnefs  of  our  meal  is  a  great  difadvantage  to  it 
in  the  Weft  country  mSirkec,  to  which  it  was  ufually  fent 
fome  years  ag^.  Oats  are  never  carried  to  market  by  our  far^^ 
mersj  though  there  is  a  demand  for  them ;  a  circumftance 
which  muft  be  attributed  more  to  habit  than  iht  tSk£k%  of 
thirlage.  Potatoes  are  not  much  ufed  here,  thouj^  every  per-* 
fon  who  rents  land  plants  a  fmall  quantity^  The  common  peo- 
ple are  not  very  fond  of  them,  and  they  think  them  unwhole- 
fome ;  nor  will  farm  fervants  make  a  meal  of  them,  or  even 
eat  them  without  milk  or  butfer,  fo  readily  as  in  other  parf^ 
of  Scotland.  To  peafe-meal  or  bear-meal  dhey-  have  rather  a 
diflike  ;  and  in  general,  garden  vegetables  of  alt  forts  are  ndt 
fo  much  cultivated  or  ufed  as  in  a6xtr  parts  of  the  kingdont. 
Very  little  flax  has  been  hitherto  ratfed  in  this  coftntry  5  and 
as  we  have  excellent  foil  for  it,  and  the  country.pcople  ait 
"under  the  neceflity  of  buying  all  the  linen^  when  they  might 
get  it  much  cheaper  by  manufaduring  it  at  home,  this  want 
of  fiax  muft  be  attributed  to  the  difficulty  in  drelling  the  lent} 

but 

f  #ne  kirlty  boU  is  9.767  per  cent  above  the  fhndard. 


of  Afford.  459 

but  as  that  obftaclc  is  now  resioTed  by  the  ere£Hoa  of  a  lint 
mill  in  the  neighbourhood  by  Mr  Leith  of  Whitehaugh,  tho 
eulture  of  dus  plant  is  becoming  much  more  general  and  ex<- 
tenfive.' 

Field  turnips  and  Town  graflesi  with  ordinary  attencton>  have 
anfwered  remarkably  well  in  tlus  country  \  and  as  the  farmers 
ate  convinced,  by  fmaJl  trials^  of  the  benefits  which  attend 
that  mode  of  huibandry,  they  are  more  defirous  than  for- 
merly of  improving  in  that  way,  though  it  is  ftill  no  eafy  talk 
to  perfuade  them  to  abandon  their  old  habits  and  prejudices. 

The  number  of  black  cattle  in  this  parrfli  (tn  December 
1793,  when  die  year's  (ale  is  over)  is  9j[3.  Of  thefe  346  are- 
oxen  for  the  plough,  of  which  there  are  65  in  the  pariih,  aU 
moft  aU  of  the^ld  Scotch  eonftru^icKi*  Every  fanner  is  am* 
Intious  of  having  many  flairs  of  b^en  m  his  plough ;  fome  bare 
tf^  'many  have  5,  and  few  common  fanners,,  with  any  extent' 
of  pofieifion,  have  'lefs  than  4  pairs.  Smaller  tenants  yoke 
oxen,  horfes,  and  even  bulls,  tows,  and  young  cattle,  promif* 
cuoufly,  to  make  up  what  they  deem  a  fufficient  ftrength*  No 
difference  in  the  nature  of  the  foil  is  attended  to  in  propor- 
tioning the  ftrength  and  number  of  the  cattle  (  for  a  farmer, 
who  yokes  10  or  1 2  oxeo,  employs  them  aH,  whether  he  plow 
his  in-fidd  land,  or  the  moft  rugged  ftony  out*ficld-  Neither 
does  this  make  any  greak  difference  in  the  quantity  of  land 
ploughed  at  a  yoking,  which  is  from  4  to  4  of  an  acre  *,  and 
which  correfpoods  with  the  poor  feeding  of  the  cattle.  Ox- 
en, which  fold  40  years  ago  at'al.  or  3I.  fell  now  from  5I.  to 
7I.  and  thofe  of  the  heft  kind  and  fize  among  common  far- 
mers, will  even  rife  to  81.  and  9I.  Every  farmer  fells  one  or 
two  pairs  of  oxen  yearly,  and  replaces  them  by  others  of  his 
9wn  rearing. 

,  3  N  2  -^      Forty 

*.  The  country  people  compote  land  by  the  quaotity  fown  with  a  boll  of 
£;ed ;  which  may  be  very  litrk  more,  if  any  thing,  than  a  Scots  acre. 


460  Statifiicul;  Account 

Forty  years  agoj  rl.  5s.  or  iL.  lo^*  was^ie  ^fica  of  4  caw 

that  will  now  brijng  from  3I.  to  5I ;  but  as  ?hcy  91c  poorly  fed, 
they  are  of  a  fmall  fize,  and  will  not  give  above  4  or  5  Scotch 
pints  of  milk  per  day,  even  in  the  bed  of  tlie^rafs.  A  far-- 
mcr's  dairyj,  therefore,  i$  barely  fufTicient  for  family  comiunp? 
tion,  and  as  the  milk  is  uied  fweet,  little  butter  or  cheefe  i$ 
made,  and  that  little  is.rardy  fent  to  market,  but  laid  up  (or 
winter  nfe,  when  milk  cannot,  i^e  had.  .  The  ^ows  calve  in 
the  beginning  of  March  or  end  of  April,  which  is  an  addi- 
tional rea(on  for  their  giving  little  milk ;  but,;  00  the  othe^ 
hand,  early  calving  is  thought,  by^the  cpcintry  people,  to  be 
advantageous  to.  the  calf,  by  giving  h  more  utj^  tp  acquire 
flrength,  befqre  the  approach: of  winrtr*  .  For  the  fame  rear 
f(H],  calves  are  univerfally  permhtcd  to  go  at  lirgf|thtofghthe 
fields,  during  fuMner,  andpick  up.the  grafs  at.^.rooti  o£ 
the  corn*  Thi&  pra£bice  is  occa(iona4  by  the  want  of  prc^t 
food  and  inclofures.;  as  the  calves  yi^uld  be  much  ifijurvd  by. 
feeding  or  being  cof^fined  with  tfheb^e  cati;l^ii^^£otd6»of 
in  hqufes,  during  the  fummer  feafon  )  and  it  i$:atteii4^d  with 
much  damage  to  the  corns  t^y  their  Jying  upoifs  and  treading 
it  down  \  and  the  calves  get.  a  reftleis  habit,  fo  that  €^Fer  aiftet 
it  is  impofiible  to  confine  them  but  by  tl\e  fkr9Dgeft;and  laoft 
impenetrable  fences.  In  winter,  the  calves. and  i^l.  other  cattle, 
are  houfed,  during  the  night,  s^nd  fed  with  :flr^w,  which, 
when  tlie  land  is  overrun  with  weeds,  is  not  s^greatdeal  in- 
ferior to  coarfe  hay.  After  the  fir^l  winter^  tb^y  accoeapa- 
ny  the  other  cattle,  till  they  ave  cows  or  oxen,)  for  it  is  not 
ufual  to  iell  very  young  cattle  in  this  country.  In  the  fpring 
feafon,  all  cattle  in  tlys  country  are  to  yqry  low  condition^^ 
the  ftr<iw  being  by  that  time  not  only  fcarce,  but  dried,  faj^cfs, 
and  lefs  nouri(hing  :  and  by  want  of  flielter,  and  en  account 
of  the  poor  (late  of  the  land  laid. put  for  grafs,  it  is  very  late 
in  rifing. 

The 


afAlford.  .  461 

Tbc  number  of  horfcs  in  this  parifli  i$  172..  They  aw 
well  bodied  and  dean  limbed^  but  they  want  a  fufficiency  of 
bQne*t  and,  as  they  feldom  life  .abore  131  or  13^  hand$ 
biglH  they  are  under  fized  for  draughf.  T.hcir  other  charac* 
leriiUcs  are,  a  large  ilKihaped  head,  with  a  thici^  neck  an4 
ftiff  mane^  they  are  hardy,  and  eafily  fed,  and,,  upon  the 
whole,  fervkeahle  horfes.  In  this  country,  horfes  are  ,no( 
gei;ierally  employed  in  ploughing,  but  they  draw  the  harrowsj>« 
which  here  are  only  ufed  to  cover  the  feed,  and  are  by  roucH 
too  light  and  unfit  for  any  of  the  other,  purpojes  of  ngrteul' 
turc,  to  which  proper  harrpw5  are  applied.  ,  They  perform 
all  the  cart  work,  wliich  principally  conGfts  in.  jounieys  to 
mill  and  market-;  in  carrying  home  the  corns  in  harveil,  and 
preparing  and  carting  out  dung.  Their  food  vs  the  faitie  as 
that  of  homed  cattle,  with  the  addition  of  the  light  cotav 
and  tliis,  with  a  little  more  attention  to  their  clcanlinefs  and 
bedding,  (though  they  are  not  rubbed  down  or  curry  rcomb- 
ed)  keeps  them  mote  in  fie(h,  and  in  better  condition,-  than 
other  cattle*  By  the  rife  of  price,  %  which,  40  years  ago, 
was  from  2l.  lio  jl.  for  a  horfe;,  that  npw  cods  from  9I.  to 
111.,  the  breeding  of  horfes  has  turned  a  profitable  ufe  of 
land  ;  and  farmers  endeavour,  at  Icaft  to  fupply  themfelve?, 
by  keeping  mares*  The  number  of  carts  ip  this  parilh,  has 
iiicreafed   greatly  within  thefc  20  years,  and  is  now.  79. 

Creels 

f  Some  31-judged  attempts  have  probably  been  inade>  long  ago,  to  raSfc 
the  fiac  of  the  nadve  horfef  of  tbc  coontrr*  ^  crofling  them  with  tall  well 
bred  horfet,  from  other  paru  of  the  kingdom,  without  giving  the  progeny 
proper  and  fafficient  feeding  to  keep  them  up  to  the  fbndard ;  for  the  de- 
fcriptios  does  not  correfpond  with  the  common  unmixed  b'rreds  of  Scotch 
horfes. 

.\  The  rife  of  price  lately,  it  owing  to  the  demand  from  the  Southern 
pru  of  Scotland,  or  North  of  England,  where  our  fm<dl  horfes  are  fa  Id  to 
^york  in  the  colUcriet, 


462  StatiJHtal  Account 

Creek  and  crook-faddles  are  entirely  in  difufe.  The  igno* 
ranee  and  inattention  of  the  farmers  of  this  couAtry,  artf 
more  confpicuous  in  the  management  of  tlieit  fliecp,  than  in 
any  other  branch  of  rural  oeconomy.  There  are  in  the  pst- 
rifh,  Tf  prcfcnt,  about  1300  ;  but,  in  fummer,  there  will  be 
twice  as  many.  The  .grcateft  part  of  thefe  aire  the  fmall 
white  faced  Scotch  (hecp,  which  fccm  to  be  natives  of  this 
country  ;  but  there  arc  a  few  which  are  bred  between  thefe 
and  the  black  faced  Tweeddale,  or  Linton  breed,  here  called 
bruiket  fhcep  ;  and  there  are  otheVs,  which,  by  the  remote- 
nefs  of  the  original,  croffmg  and  intermixing  again  with  the 
fheep  of  the  country,  partake,  more  or  lefs,  of  the  two  fpc- 
cies. 

This  crofs  breed  has  probably  been  at  firft  brought  irita 
the  country,  with  a  view  to  raife  the  fizc  of  the  carcafc  ;  but, 
although  the  price  of  (heep  has  nearly  tripled  within  thefe 
40  years,  neither  tlie  catcafe  nor  the  wool  have  been  much 
attended  to  by  our  farmers,  whofe  principal  objeft,  and,  by 
their  own  account,  chief  gain,  is  in  the  dung  which  manures 
their  folds.  They  are  looked  upon  as  prejudicial  to  cattle, 
becaufe  the  country  people  think  that  they  eat  up  a  great 
deal  of  the  grafs;  and,  therefore,  none  but  thofe  who  have 
cxtcnfive  hillgrazings,  keep  any  fheep. 

The  hill  grounds  are  not,  however,  particularly  kept  for 
(heep  i  but  young  cattle  and  young  horfes  are  turned  out  up- 
on them.  The  flocks  of  fcveral  tenants  generally  range  the 
fame  padures  in  common  \  and  as  every  one  is  defirous  ta 
keep  as  many  as  he  can,  they  arc  very  generally  over-ftocked. 
When  a  farmer  has  not  a  fufficient  flock  of  his  own,  or  more 
pafturc  ground  than  is  proportioned  to  his  winter  feeding, 
he  takes  in  flieep  during  the  fummer,  at  the  very  moderate 
rate  of  2d.  per  head  for  three  months,  though,  as  he  looks 
upon  the  dung  of  the  animal  as  his  profit,  they  are  allowed 


b/Alford.  .  46^ 

io  remain  fhe.  In  the  fummer,  flieep  are  turned  oat  to  the 
kilU  to  range  at  thdr  own  difcretion,  and,  at  night^fall,  a  boy 
is  fent  to  drive  them  down  to  the  folds,  from  which  they  are 
frequently  not  releaibd  till  the  morning  is  far  gone. 

As  MFe  have  no  ihepherds,  nor  even  good  iheep  dogs,  fo  there 
are  no  divifions  of  the  flocks,  according  to  their  fexes,  or  ages, 
nor  any  ground  haioed  for  winter;  In  this  feafon,  they  are 
turned  out  upon  the  arable  laiUls  of  the  farm,  which  have 
not  been  in  corn  crop  \  and  feldom  fent  to  the  hill,  unlefs  th^ 
weather  is  very  mild  )  but  during  ftorm8;ind  falls  of  ihow, 
their  fttbfiftenqe  muft  depend  upon  heath  ||  broom,  or  any 
thing  elfe,  wihich  can  be  reached  by  fcraping.  No .  falve  or 
fmearing  is  ufed  in  this  county  \  and  if  a  farmer's  (lock  is  not 
Tery  numerous,  the  iheep  are  crammed  into  fmall  houfes^ 
built  for  the  purpofe,  during  the  night,  and  what  witli  the 
Alternate  heat  an4  cold  they  thus  undergo,  and  the  poor 
fcanty  feedbig  ^i  this  feafon,  they  are  in  fpring  reduced  to  a 
very  lean  weakly  ftate,  which  it  requires  aconfiderable  part 
of  the  fummer  to  teftore.  The  grounds,  however,  are  heat* 
thjr,  and  no  very  mortal  or  difficult  difeafes  prevail  among 
the  flocks  on  account  of  the  pafture.  The  improper  burning 
of  heath  grounds  has  been  highly  detrimental  to  flicep  in 
this  country  ;  for  the  farmers  never  confult  the  proper  fitua- 
.  tion  of  the  pLice  in  regard  to  (belter,  the  nature  of  the  foil, 
and  the  favourablenefs  of  the  feafon  for  this  purpofe  \  nor  Ao 
they  herd  the  burnt  ground,  to  prcfcrve  the  tender  grafs, 
which  fprings  up,  from  being  plucked  out  at  tlie  roots,  by  the 

flieep. 

I  In  deep  fnoWs,  the  coontiy  people  uncover  the  heath  wkh  fpades,  ta 
enable  the  iheep  tb  pluck  it.  Farther  up  the  Don,  in  the  country  called 
Stxathdoo,  which  is  more  {h>riny,  but  where  they  have  many  more,  and 
much  better  flieep  than  here,  this  is  a  common  pradicc.  There,  hkewife,  the 
farmers  cut  off  the  heath,  when  it  is  in  flower;  ai.d  after  drying  (hem,  I-y  ' 
tiiem  up  for  winter  proviiion. 


464  '  Statijiictil  Account 

fhccp.  The  had  cotifcquenccs  of  improper  burniog  arc  no^ 
Telt,  and  likely  to  be  put  a  ftop  to  by  the  proprietors  }.  Swinc 
arc  never  kept  here  but  by  millersy  tiflw  difpofe  of  the  refnfc 
bf  the  grain  from  thefc  mills  in  feeding  them.  We  hiViC  a 
good  many  markets  round  the  country,  at  from  4  and  55  to . 
•12  iand  14  miles  diftancc,  where  4<an  cattle  arc  bought  up  by 
dfX)vcTSi  principally  from  the  South  country,  and  all  for  the 
fouthern  marrkets.  Horfes  are  likewife  bought  and  fold  in 
thefc  markets,  as  well  as  lean  Ihcep.  Thfc  Aberdeen  butch^ 
crs,  in  the  autumn,  buy  the  bed  grafs-fed  urcdders,  at  froai 
'ios*<5d.to  iM.;  but  few  if  any  cattle  arc  felled  here  for 
the'fhambies,  as  dfthcr  by  eombinBtiatis  among  Ac  butdiers^ 
or  for  feme  odier  caufe^  the  price  given  by  them  is  very  Xom^ 
and'fuU  "^tper  cenU  under  that  given  in  Aiigws.  TlieTe  were 
tocicntly  weekly  madiets  held  at  Makkndovitf^  in  thb  pa^ 
rifli,  and  great  yearly  f^irs  at  that  pkce»  and  Kirkton  of  Al^ 
4brd.  Thofe  at  Meiklefidovie  have  been  difcontinued  fot 
Uia&y  years  \  but  thete  aire  -ftill  three  ieXts  at  the  Slirkton,  for 
the  fale  of  cattle,  horfes,  (hcep,  &c.  and  fmall  warQS  %  but 
Itbey  areof  no'great  coniequencc. 

'fhe  general  manure  in  tiiis  county^  is  ftable  and  byre 
dung,  which  liie  common  farnftcrs  mix  up  with  a  confider- 
able  quantity  of  muckfail  or  clay.  The  muckfail  is  very  poot* 
turf,  cut  up  in  the  neareft  muir,  a  praAice  which  was  once 
in  Vogue,' in  every  quarter  of  Scotland;  and  which  b  ftiH 
looked  upon  in  this  country  as  a  mod  important  article  in 
hufbandry,  and  occupies  a  great  deal  of  time.  Where  good 
day  is  to  be  had,  it  is  ufed  in  preference  to  the  milirini 
fward ;  and  it  is  certainly  much  better,  though  our  in-field 

lands, 

$  Thcrt  kre  many  laws,  !cfpc(5ling  the  burning  of  heath  grounds,  'they 
are  all  intended  with,  a  view  to  protedl  the  game ;  but  if  they  were  chiefiy 
enforced,  they  would  be  advantageous  to  fliccp,  though  the  ground  cannot  al- 
ways be  burned  lo  proper  fcafon. 


b/Alfoirl  465 

lahds,  thofe  bnly  which  are  manured  in  fhu  i^jr,  do  by  ncf 
means  ftand  in  need  of  a  claying  every  threft  yearsf.  All  out 
f^rmeirs  are  moft  hiiferabl;  defe^liire  in  that  grand  requsBte 
in  good  firming}  the  raifing  of  manure  ;  for  llie  whole  dung 
inade  on  a  farm  in  one  year,  even  withihe  addition  of  nnii^k- 
fail  or  day,  is  barely  fufficieqt  for  manuring  one  {eventb^  or# 
at  moiki  one  fitth  of  the  land  which  produced  thj;  draw.  All; 
attempts  to  dticover  made  liave  hitherta  |>roted  Unfucce&ir 
ftti )  and  die  only  fa£)ntbiis  manure  whkh  h^aheen  tried  iii 
this  country  19  lime  $  and  as  trials  of  it  have  been  made  to  % 
Very  confiderable  extent, .  there  is  uo  dDtifat  of  the  pt«£]igsr 
bilityi  and  value  of  the  hnpio/ement.  T{h&  late  Mr  Iwecf 
.bf  Bredsi;  by  liming  and  inclofingi  flccoitpasiied  by  proper 
ku(bandrt,  improved  a  property  mtfaisparifliki  iventy  ycaffsi 
which  wad  lately  fold  at  triple  the  prkcthe  paid  for  ic  ^  won 
iire  there  wanting  inftancc^  of  proprtetohB,  said  ^cn-^f  tf  n^ 
ants,  thokgh  above  the  ofdinaty  level,:  who  Jiayev^witfa  cqi<at 
advafitage^  carried  on  OniiI«ur  (^rove«»em$i>  S-be  etpeade^' 
however^  though  the  ret«rii5  whh  gddd?liia»illgtiiientj  in'the 
hmg  run,  do  miich  more  than  tcpay  it,  iif»fy  'greatt  Th« 
thcapdl  mcthod^'bf  pfdcUTittgJfmejis  K^  briiig  it -f rom  Abcr-r 
dcen,  at  the  diftance  «Pft^  ^  -td  3d  Afileii'rArtfiat  .poet 
the  price  is  very  high  ;  for  adl  the  lime-'fhe1(s  imported  there) 
Are  either  from  the  Suridcrland  lime^wovks,  iti  the  M6rth  of 
England,  orthofe  at  CharTeftown,  in  the  PfiA  bf  F<*th;  whidt 
belongs  to  Lord  Elgin;  Lime-fhell&,  frohi  the  Srft,  give  ji«a 
iurns  ;  and  of  the  laft,  from  2  10  '2|  of  flaked  Bme.  Th© 
Aberdeen  boll  of  lime-flicHs  is  fotfr  corn  firlots,  tit  11*  ftaiU 
dard  Scotch  pints  ||,  fofr  which  the  mcrchtfnf J  reeeife^  fiffjitt 
3s.  id.  to  3s  3d.  for  Sundcfhnd>  and  hdm  rs.  fd* ^  is.  pdii 
for  Chafleftown  flidls.  The  carrragc  ftom-AWrdcen  to  thif 
Vol.  XV*.  3O  '       cottmry# 

I  Seyen  mblc  feet,  and  150  cu^ic  inchtt. 


4^6  iStatiJlical  Account 

country,  of.  io  bulky  arid  heavy  an  article,  is  thff  chief  06^ 
ftaclc  to  improvements  by  means  of  lime.  When  Aber- 
deen carters  are'  employe.d  to  tranfport  lirae-ffieDs  to  this* 
country,  they  afre  paid  at  the  rate  of  lis.  or  12s.  for  «very 
three  bolls,  according  to  the  diflanee  5  three  bolls  weigh  a- 
boot  13C0  cwt.y  and  require  two  horfes,  as  neither  the  toads 
nor  the*  horfes  are  good.  S<Mtie  reckon  this  the  cheajpeil 
way,  but  others  hire  the  carters  to  deliver  the  (belts  1 5  miles* 
from  Abei^deen,  where  they  take  them  up  with  their  own 
cattle ;  and  they  pay  at  the  rate  of  2Qd.  per,  boll ;  but  it  is  not 
uncommon  to  fend  horfes  and  fervants  to  Aberdeen  with* 
grain,  and  even  without  a  load,  and  to  bring  home  lime-(hells 
lATettirn.  As  the  Sunderland  (hells  contain  a  greater  quan- 
tity, of  calcareous  matter  in  the  fame  bulk,  and  in  lefs  weight,- 
fihati  thofe  6f  Charldftov^,  they  are  generally  ufed  here,  and* 
at  the  rztt  of  from  16  to  20  bolls  per  Scotch  acre^  wbich^ 
when  properly  applied,  have  con({antly  worked  great  e&£ls. 
"JThe  great  expence  of  liming,  eipecialif  in  the  carriage,  which, 
with  their  weak  iU  fed  cattle,  the  country  people  cannot  a-^ 
void,  has  hi|hett#  deterred  them  from  ufing  it  as  a  manure  ta 
any  extent ;  aad»  ittdpedi,  ^  without  a  total  alteration  of  their 
mode  .of  cropping,  it  woi^d  be  4a*gOi!0us  and  hurtful  to  their 
farms.  Heavy  as.  the  expence  of  procuripg  lime,  in  this  coun« 
tlry,'is^^  advs^tag^sof  it  in  melioraAing  the  foil,  are  fo  great,, 
thtft.'it  may  be  looked  upon  as  an  article  highly  eiiential  ^  and 
neecflary  for  dtt€;aii>tt9g  or  carrying  on.  improvements.  The 
oftly  mpans  to  ^\xt(rm^  this  expcncf >  are  either  to  difcover 
toi^fuode. workable  limeftone  in  the  country,  or  to  lower  tlie 
fXI^GO  of  carriage*  Ti^e  attempts  to  difcover  workable 
t^ae-fton^,  have  nqt  hitherto  been  either  general,  01^  well 
«0ndu£led,;  and  though  there  are  many  indications  of  it  in 
*  the  country,'no  regular  quarry  has  been  hitherto  found.  It 
is  probable^  that  the  gentlemen  will  foon  turn  their  thoughts 

with 


ofAiford.  467 

mdi  fome  effed»  to  that  important  objeft,  and  if  they  a¥« 
fuccefsfuli  we  (hall  haye  limc-ihelis  as  cheap,  at  leaft,  as  they 
can  be  purchafcd  at  Aberdeen,  after  defraying  all  expcnce«i 
the  heavieft  of  which  will  be  the  price  and  carriage  of  coaU 
from  Aberdeen  to  bum  the  limedone.  If  this  great  fource 
of  improTement  fail,  oar  only  other  alternative,  is,  to  cheap? 
en  the  carriage,  by  altering  and  mending  the  roads,  which 
have  lately  begun  to  receive  very  great  attention  in  this  coun* 
try- 
There  are  few  fields  properly  inclofed,  but  thofe  wliich 
furround  gentlemen's  feats  ;  and  the  only  fences  which  may. 
be  called  good,  are  ftone  dykes  though  there  is  little  doubt 
that,  upon  a  proper  plan,  with  proper  preparation  and  atten- 
tion, thorns  would  thrive  well,  make  good  fences,  ^  and,  cok- 
fequendy,  a  moft  valuable  and  lafling  improTement  in  this 
country ;  but  they  have  la  veiy  few  places  had  a  fair  triah 
The  country  people  are  not  av«rfe  to  indoiures,  though  they 
will  neither  build  nor  pay  a  per  ccntage  foE  building  ftono 
dykes,  which  coft  from  aid.to4().  perScotchell^,  according 
to  the  materisds  and  height  of  the  dyke  \  beiides  carriage  of  the 
ftones  ;  and  thoyieBiUiot  bear  the  trouble  of  prote&ing  or  rait 
ing  a  thorn  hedge.  T))oy  hfeid^ti.  make  a  proper  ufe  of  indo* 
fures  where  they  have  them ;  for  it  is  not  uncommon  to  fee  an 
inclofed  field  in  patches  of  com  and  grafs  ;  the  only  real  u£b 
of  inclofures  to  dtem^i  therefore,  is  to  lisnre  as  a  barrier  to  tha 
farm  in  winter,  when,  if  the  weather  is  open,  the  cattle  of  the 
great  and  ot  the  fmall  farmer^  range  piomifcuoufly  over  the 
whole  country,  without  regard  to  any  farm  or  any  boundaries. 
This  pra£lice  has  been  proh3>ited  jf  by  the  Legiflature  long 

3  O  2  ago, 

^  A  Scotch  elLis  little  more  thap  37  Eoglifli  inchet. 

I  Winter  feeding  was  ftridly  enjoined,  and  the  praAice  of  taming  out 
cattle,  to  go  at  random,  prohibited,  under  fevere  penalties,  in  1606.  The  ati- 
Uty  of  the  law  is  obvious.— Pity  that  it  is  not  more  rigoroufly  executed. 


46^  Statiftica\  Account 

ago»  ind  U  deferves  very  fe?^re  reproblicion,  as  it  is  a  moft 
effe£lual  bar  to  improvements  of  every  i^nd  \  and  efpeciali]^ 
to  the  culture  pf  grafs  and  Corn  cr6p6. 

The  wages  of  farm  ferrants  have  been  very  greatly  raifed 
within  thefe  few  years  in  this  country,  owing  to  the  great 
demand  and  high  price  of  labour  in  Angus,  the  MeamSf  and 
Southern  parts  pf  Scotland,  together  ivith  that  occafioned  by 
the  number  of  eiitenfive  manufactories,  recently  ere£bed  in 
Aberdeen.  Forty  years  ago,  a  man's  yearly  wag^s  wert  from 
i6L  Scotch,  or  il.  6s.  8d.  Sterling,  to  il.  ije.  4d.  and  &  wo- 
man'js  \6  merkii,  or  17s.  p^d.  and  they  are  now  from  51*  los. 
to  61.  for  a  man,  and  i\.  ie>8.  fpr  a  woman.  Though  thcfe  wa* 
ges  do  not  appear  high,  when  compared  with  thofo  given  iq 
pthcr  parts  of  Scotland,  they  are  very  feverely  felt  by  the  fur* 
mcrs  of  this  country ;  and  indeed,  when  it  is  confidcied  that 
fervants  in  this  quarter  do  not  woxk  as  in  other  places ;  that 
the  extent  of  ground  ploughed,  harrowpd,  reaped,  Ssc.  is  ve- 
ry great,  when  compared  to  the  produce  \  that  for  thefe  tea* 
fons  many  fervants  are  required ;  and  that  the  maintenance 
of  them  is  ?  much  btghet  article  than  their  wages,  efpeciaily 
where  there  are  many  mouths^  and  whcii,  in  addition tq 
to  thefe  pecuniary  difadvantages,  the  difficulty  in  procuring 
fervants,  their  wafte,  indolence,  careleflbefs,  and  infolence, 
'  are  taken  into  account,  it  is  not  to  be  wondered  at,  that  the 
expencc  of  farm  fervants,  in  this  country,  cuts  very  deep  up- 
on the  produce  of  the  farm,  or  (as  the  tenants  generally  (ay) 
that  it  is  a  greater  burden  on  them  than  their  rent.  Befides 
the  ordinary  fervants  of  his  farm,  a  farmer  has  to  provide  a 
number  of  extra  hands  for  his  harveft  vrork.  This  work  is 
never  done  by  the  piece  or  day,  but  an  agreed-upon-fum,  to<^ 
gether  with  the  reapers  visuals,  (frequently  accompanied  by 


verf  ridiculous  fUpuiattons  *)  are  given  as  a  faarveft  fee,  tiarr 
ing  the  whcrfe  time  of  cutting  down  and  carrying  home  the 
poms*  Thefe  harveft  fees  have  been  riiing  for  fome  years, 
and.  are  now  il-  15  s.  or  2I*  for  a  man,  and  iL  for  a  woman, 
beGdes  vifluals ;  and  the  rifle  of,  bad  weather,  to  protiaA  the 
banreft,  and  lay  hands  idle,  whom  the  fanner  muft  main* 
t^n,  and  every  thing  elfe  being  taken  into  view,  i(  will  be 
fouild,  that  the  expence  of  harveft  work  runs  very  greatly  out 
of  proportion  to  that  of  every  other  fpecies  of  labour.  This 
fiifproportion  is  the  caufe  of  many  of  the  grievances  we  feel, 
with  regard  to  ordinary  fervants  \  for  thefe  high  harveil  fees 
being  nearly  equivalent  to  a  half  years  wages,  not  oply  deter 
the  people,  efpecially  women :):,  from  engaging  to  work  to  a 
mafter,  but  induces  fjcrvants  tp  defert  their  fervice  upon  tlie 
fiighteft  pretences ;  and  it  is  much  to  be  regretted,  that  the 
diflike  of  getting  what  they  call  a  bad  word,  among  fervants, 
generally  ties  up  the  fj^rmcr  from  applying  for  that  redrefs 
-which  the  law  affords*  The  fame  fiily  idea  leads  them  to 
give  way  to  the  grofiell  abufes  in  their  dameftic  concerns.  A 
farmer  muft  often  rife  from  bed  at  3  or  4  o'clock,  in  a  win- 
ter's morning,  to  admit  his  fervants,  who  have  been  junket* 
ting  all  night  in  the  neighbourhood ;  and  he  muft  perform  all 
the  morning  work  of  a  farm,  in  tending  cattle,  &c.  long  be- 
fore they  get  upi  to  aflift  him ;  nor  is  it  uncommon  for  a  far- 
mer  to  go  with  his  cart  and  horfes  to  Aberdeen  himfelf,  be- 
caufe  he  vdU  not  only  take  better  care  of  his  cattle,  but  per-* 
form  the  Journey  at  lefs  expence  tlian  his  fervant.    In  (hort, 

the 

*  3ucb  as,  for  example,  that  the  reaper  (hall  have  fuch  and  fuch  perfons  oq 
the  fame  ridge  with  him. 

\  W'omen,  when  they  are  not  engaged  a«  fervanti,  fpin,  and  make  their  own 
clothes,  or  work  ftockings,  till  the  harvcfl  approach ;  and  thus  are  gainers  by 
pot  entering  into  farmeri  fcryice. 


479  Stali/lical  Account 

the  common  meamng  of  language  here  is  totally  reverfed  { 
and  fer vants  do  not  fo  muck  ferve,  as  rule  and  tyrannize  oTcr 
their  mailers.  The  fubtenants  and  cottars  do  not  work  much 
to  the  principal  tenants ;  but  they  pay  them  higher  rents 
than  the  principal  pays  to  his  landlord,  and  they  eafe  him  of 
a  good  many  fervices ;  and  though  this  ciafs  of  pofleflbrs  of 
land  aad  to  the  population  of  a  country,  they  are  not,  hare 
at  leafti  always  to  be  reckoned  the  moil  ufeful  and  induftri- 
ofiis  members  of  fociety.  There  are  many  of  them,  who,  if 
their  fmail  piece  of  ground  will  barely  find  them  fubfiftence, 
will  not  endeavcmr  to  better  their  condition  by  labour  or  in- 
dudry,  though  there  is  always  work  enough  for  labourers  ; 
and  they  lead  an  e^fy,  indolent  life,  except  in  harveft,  which 
is  a  feafon  of  general  exertion.  The  wages  of  artificers  here 
are  as  high  as^n  any  part  of  Scotland,  and  thofe  of  day  lar 
bourers  are  8d«  in  fummer  and  6d.  in  winter;  high  enough, 
confidering  their  work ;  yet  the  high  price  of  meal  common- 
ly proves  a  ilrong^r  inducement  to  make  them  work  th^n 
thefe  wages.  Working  by  the  piece,  except  at  mafon«wdTiB 
and  dyking,  is  not  general  in  this  country ;  nor  will  the  coun* 
try  people  undeitake  it  even  for  common  works,  fuch  as 
trenching,  ditching,  &c.  unlefs  tbcy  have  an  enormous  pro- 

The  fuel  of  tliis  country  is  peat,  wood,  turf,  heath  broom^ 
&c. .  With  the  firft,  there  are  only  two  eftates  in  the  parifh 
fupplied  i  and  though  the  tenants  of  thofe  properties  are  on 
a  better  footlnjg  than  the  others,  dill  the  labour  of  procuring 
peats  is  fo  great,  that  it  admits  of  a  doubt,  wfaedier  coal,,iJin-^ 
der  the  difudvantages  of  a  high  price,  and  a  long  carriage^ 
wpuld  not  be  dieapcr.  Except  the  roots  and  crops  of  trees, 
wood  is  little  .ufed  for  fuel,  as  it  is  very  expenfive  5  and  brooaa 
and  heath  require  much  labour. 

Rcadu 


ofAlfdrd.  47  B 

il9ads. — The  ronds  in  this  county  have'  been  originally 
formed,  either  by  the  ftatute  labour,  or  by  the  military,  under 
the  order  of  Government.  Of  this  laft  defcription,  there  arc 
two  roads  which  croft  each  other,  in  thi«  parifh  ;  the  great 
Northern  road,  whkh  leads  from  Fettercai/n,  over  the  Gairn 
of  Month  to  Huntly,  and  the  road  which  goes  from  Aber- 
deen to  Corgarff,  a  military  ttation  on  the  fources  of  Don. 
Both  thcfe  roads,  fince  their  forraatidn  by  the  foldiery,  have 
^been  Jteptin  repair  by  the  ftktute  labour- 6f  the  'U%^t\i\  pa-^ 
riihes  through  which  they  pafs,  as  far  as  it  would  go,  to 
maintain  them  jointly  with  other  roads  in- the  pari (hes.  The 
ftatute  labour  has  not  been  hitherto  convorted  into  mbney  in 
^is  country ;  and,  of  confequencey  as  in  every  other  coun- 
try where  the  ftatute  labour  is  p^ormod  ,in  work  by  the 
cettntry  people,  it  is  found  inadequate  to  the  fupport  of  the* 
roads,  1>oth  public  and  parochial.  The  laft  mentioned  mili* 
tary  road,  forms  the  commiiAiicatioH  between  a  very  exten- 
five  country  and  tiie  city  of  Aberdeen,  and  has,  of  late, 'as 
Well  as  on  feveral  former  occaiions,  become  almoft  impafiabie^ 
In  aid  of  the  ftatut»  tabour,  the  gentlemen  whofe  eftates  ly 
m  this  country,  ha'Ve  l^ce  made  very  ttbcrai  fublcriptions' 
for  it's  repair ;  but  in  1792,  wben  it  was  again  in  a  very  bad 
ftate,  after  mature  confideration,  its  dircQ.ion,  for  a  confidera- 
ble  ^y,  was  found  to  be  highly  improper ;  and  it  was  a- 
grced,  that  a  new  road,  for  nearly  0  miles  hi  length,  with  a 
view  to  obviate  the  difail vantages  of  the  old  track,  Qiould  be 
tindertaken.  L.  600.  has  been  fiibfcribed  for  this  purpofe, 
and  the  worfc-is  confidclrably  advanced.  When  it  isfiniflicd,- 
there  is  good  reafon  to  e:dpe£l,  that  the  tmirrovement  of  thi» 
country  will  go  on  with  aditionat  brilkne&i  as' It  will  give  us 
flrf  excellent  communication  with  our  chief  market  place, 
and  enable  the  farmer  to  bring  home  lime,  coal,  and  the  o- 
Ui€;r  ncccflary  articles  of  country  confumption,  much  more 


47*  Slatistkal  Accvirii  . 

cafily,  and  therefore  more  cfheaply,  than  he  has  been  wont 
to  do. 

MannfaBuresr-^ho,  only  manufadiiire  in  this  covoty 
iirorth  mehtioning,.  is  that  of  knitting  ftockings,  which  has 
hcen  king  eft«J>liftied  in  Abcrdecnfliirc*.  The  country  part 
of  the  manufa£][ure,  is  tarried  on  entirely  by  women,  to 
whom  the woplisdeKYcred  out  by  the  Abefd^n  (locking 
toerchantSi  who  have-  fixed  ftations  oV«r  the  cpontry,  for  gtv- 
ing  out  wooly  receiving  ftockiags,  and  reckooing  with  thofe 
whom  they  employ.  >  The  wool  is  almoU  ail  imported  from 
Englandf^  and  none  of  the  growth  of  the  couatry  ismanvfac- 
tured ;  for  which  reafan»  our  woot  i^very  inferior^  and  the 
fleeces  .of  a  flock  mot  w«ilh  more  thati  6d.  each,  on  an  a¥e» 
rage«  It  is  fpun  and  worked  into  ftockings^  at  a  price  pro- 
poortiofied  to  their  fineaefs  oi  coarfenefs  \  and  the  average 
gaia  of  a  good  worker,  will  be  2S.  per  week*  •  Tltts  manu- 
£a&ure  has  contriboted  to  keep  bands  itk  tjae  country  |  but  iif 
admits  of  fome  doubt,  whether  thefe  'hand$  migkt-  not  be 
more  profitably  empkyyed,  and  whether  the  manuf^Sure  has' 
t^romotcd  the  iotenifbi  o£  agricultiiH^i&v^hlK^^it^-cenMuljft  Q»^ 
tytiButesr  little  to  health,  arid  ctmduces  k£i-ro  mQf«iiitf  • 

Antiquities. -^In  this  parifli,  the  Maxquis  of  Montrofe,  upon' 
the  2d  day  of  July  1645,  won  the  battle  of  Alford,  by  de- 
feating Baillic,  one  of  the  Gtnerals  of  the  Covenanters  ;  but 
his  caufe  fuftaiaed  an  Irreparable  lofs,  in  the  death  of  the 
.  Lord  Gordon,  the  eldeft  fon  of  the  Marquis  of  Huntly,  who 

fell 

•  •  'According  ta  the  accounti  cf  the  Ab^rdoen  merchaoU,  (who«ijMrt  til 
thcftoCkings,  either  to  HoUandaud  the  northern  parti  of  Genwiny,  fniar 
whence  they  arc  often  feat  tp  America)  the  furn  circulated  through  the 
country  jo  the  neighbourhood  of  Aberdeen,  merely  for  fpinning  the  wool 
and  knitting  the  ftockings,  is  from  70,000!.  to  90,000!.  per  aiuium.  Th* 
accounts  arc,  howc?er.  in  all  probahility,  much  beyond  the  tnnh. 


fell  by  t  random  {hot,  in  the  ptitfaiti  neat  a  large  (lone  on 
the  field  of  battle,  Mtrhich  is  ftiU  pointed  out  by  the  country 
people.  About  50  years  ago,  fottie  men,  in  calling  peats*  dug 
up  the  body  of  a  man  on  horfeback  and  in  complete  armour, 
who  had  been  drowned  either  in  the  purfuit,  or  flight  from 
this  engagement ;  and  formerly,  thei  country  people  were  in 
ufe,  when  calling  peatSj  to  find  ball,  and  pieces  of  money  % 
which  had,  probably,  dropped  from  tha  flying,  and  efcaped  • 
the  fearch  of  the  vi£lors.  Upon  the  top  of  a  little  hill,  there 
is  an  immenfe  cairn,  from  which  a  fmall  property  in  tliis  pa- 
ri(h  takes  the  name  of  Cameveran,  though  the  import  of  that 
word  is  not  known.  This  cairn  is  lao  yards  in  circumfer- 
ence, and  of  a  proportionable  height.  Of  this  great  monu- 
ment, there  is  no  very  di(lin£l  tradition,  though  fome  think 
that  it  marks  the  burial  place  of  a  brother  of  one  of  the 
Kings  of  Scotland.  No  more  certain  accounts  can  be  given 
of  a  pretty  large  cairn,  which  lately  ftood  at  a  place  called 
Caimballoch  \  but,  when  it  was  removed  fome  years  ago, 
there  was  foimd  near  the  bottom,  a  fort  of  cheft,  compofed 
of  chin  flat  ftones,  containing  an  earthen  vefiel  filled  with 
aflies,  Tjrfiich  mouldered  away  upon  being  ctpofi^d  to  the  air« 
In  the  parifl],  there  is  an  eminence  called  the  Gallow  Hill, 
which  had  been  anciently  a  place  of  execution ;  and  naiis« 
and  other  pieces  of  rufty  iron,  are  turned  over  by  the  plough, 
near  the  fummit,  wh6re  the  gallows  had  been  ere£ted«  Many 

3P  of 

i  *  Some  of  the  coini  are  m  the  cuflody  of  Mr  Farquharfon  of  Haughton; 
add  ai  ji  may  gratify  a  curioui  reader  to  know  the  colni  which  appear  to 
have  been  then  current,  two  of  rhem  fliAll  be  d^ribed.  1*bey  are  filter; 
^nd  the  6rft  xi  a  two  florm  piece  of  Maximilian,  Count  Palatine*  &(;.  havings* 
en  one  fide,  hif  arms,  furroonded  by  the  Poifon  J'or,  and,  on  the  revcrfe,  the 
the  Patrone£i  of  Bavaria,  with  the  fame  legend  which  u  fliU  ufed.  The 
«ther  it  a  doUar  of  Phil.  4.  of  Spain,  having  on  one  fide  the  arma  of  Spain 
aosd  Aufiria,  and  the  collar  of  ths  Golden  Fleece,  and  tin  the  reverie,  a 
«  crois  ileuri.  , 


^4  Statisiical  JccounS 

pf  the  parifliioticrs  rjcport,  though  without  much  crcdibiUtyi 
that  Gregory  the  Great  was  buried  in  the  pariih  5  and  ther<j 
are  fcvcral  prediQions  current  among  the  country  people,  at- 
tributed by  them  to  ThoiXKis  the  Rhymer,  which  it  would-be 
unneceffary  to  recite.  Th^re  aie  two  old  houfes  in  the  pa- 
rifh  ;  one  of  them,  Afstoune,  was  built  between  two  and 
three  hundred  years  ago,  and  fcems  to  iiave  been  a  place  of 
fome-ftrength.  It  was  a  fquare  building,  with  a  rpund  tower 
at  each  of  two  oppofite  angles,  of  which  there  is  one  ftill  re- 
remaining,  though  the  greater  part  of  the  houfe  was  pulled 
down  40  years  ago.  The  firft  ftorey  was  all  vaulted^  and 
there  was  a  well  in  one  of  the  vaults ;  but  the  towers  were  a 
continuation  of  one  vault  above  another  to  tlie  roof. 

'  About  two  thirds  of  the  ps^rifh  belongs  to  one  proprietor, 
who  is  an  occafional  reddent,  and  the  remainder  i»  divided  a- 
mong  five  others,  two  of  whom  refide  conftantly.  ^  The  va- 
lued rent  is  3126I.  12s.  8d.  and  tlic  neat  rent  may  be  about 
1500I.  19s.  Sterling. 

Animals- — ^The  Don  abounds  with  trout,  and,  after  high 
floods,  with  falmon,  which,  when  the  river  is  low,  cannot  get 
vp'On  account  of  the  crieve  dykes,  near  its  mouth.  There  are 
|ia<|>ikes»  and  few  eels  in  this  part  of  its  couriie.  A  bridge  over 
the  Dou  in  the  line  of  the  great  northern  road,  would  be 
li^ghly  Serviceable  to  this  country.  Be  fides  the  Don,  there 
are  feveral  inferior  ftreams,  which  p^fs  through  the  partft, 
well  .ftocked  with  trout,  &c.  Upon  one  of  diem,  the  Lo^heli 
aJbridgc  was  bui|t  by  Mr  Mclvine,  tb^n  clergyman  of  this 
parifl),  in  the  end  of  the  lad  century^  and  it  is  ilill  kept  in 
good  repair,  by  a  n^rtificatipn  of  iQO  iperks,  which,  hc^J^ft 
ia  the  charge  of  the  minifter  and  kirk  feflion,  for  that  puqp^fe. 

In  the  parifli. there  are  a  few  Red  and  Roc  Deer,  lately  at- 
^a£ted  to  the  country  by  the  extcnfive  plantations  ;  and  we 
faaycfoxcs,  polecats,  weafek,  the  Scotch  ermine,  and  the  Muf-* 

covy 


'6fAlfoYd.  475 

'^ov'y  kaly  ^hb  has  travelled  up  tBe  banks  of  the  river  froni 
Aberdeen.  We  have  likewife  a  few  muir-fowl,  and  plenty 
6f  hares,  pntrkiges,  fiiipes,  plovers,  and  wild  diicks  \  and, 
dt  particular  feafons,  curleSVs,  woodcocks,  dottrels,  and  fcail 
tl rakes.  Of  other  birds,  thb  country  is  infe{led  with  hawks 
of  almoft  all  forts  ;  the  falcoii,  fparrow-hawl:,  martin,  and  a 
rare  fpecies,  commonly  called  blue  fieeves,  and  ^ith  kites  of 
different  fizes  and  defcriptionS.  The  hooded  crows  are  noC 
fo  numerous,  but  rooks  and  daws  are  in  prodigious  numbers. 
Sometimes  the  great  woodpecker  has  beeii  found  in  our 
Svoods,  and  the  king^s^fiOier  on  the  river,  though  they  are 
txceeding  rare.  In  general,  our  woocis  have  iricreafed  the 
Dumber  of  the  birds  and  beads  of  prey,  and  confequently  di- 
minifhed  the  quantity  of  game  in  the  coiUHryi 

Churchy  School  and  Poor. — 'the  church  is  old,  atid  bears  dat^ 
1603.  T^^  manfe  was  btiilt  in  1716^  aiid  has  been  repaired; 
and  ii  convenient.  The  ftipertd  is  60L  i3b.  4d;  including  com- 
munion elemehts,  and  grafs  money;  2  chalders  of  meal,  and  i 
bf -bear,  befide^  a  glebe  of  4  acres,  and  a  garden.  The  laft  £• 
pifcSpal  clergyman  iil  thi^'parifli  was  Mr  Jeffrey,  who  Was 
rfeflloVed  ibout  the  year  1 7 1 5,  and  Mr  Gord6n,  the  firil  Pfef- 
byterian  ^^I^t(ler  (and  a  coniidetable  leadkt  ill  tht  diurch 
of  Scdtlattd),  was  fcltl'ed  in  1717,  and  removed  to  AUoain 
1735.    The  prcfent  incumbent  is  his  third  fucceflbr. 

The  fchool-falary  is  1 3  bolls  of  mealj  and  2I.  arifing  from  a 
mortification,  and  40  mcrks^  or  2I.  4s.  j^d.  as  the  fee  of  a 
fe^ir  clerk;  The  emoluments  of  the  fchool  will  not  much 
etceed  3I.  Tt\e  whole  amount  is  too  flendeic  an  allowance 
for  any"  ptrfon  properly  qualified  to  discharge  the  important 
duties  which  this  clafs  of  men  owe  to  the  public. 

The  funds  for  the  maintenance  of  the  poor,  are  the  inte- 
reft  of  200I.  of  mortified  money,  and  the  weekly  colled  ions 
»i  churchj  together  with  the  fines  of  delinquents;  Thcfe  funds 

are 


47^  Statijical  Account 

arc  applied  to  the  fupport  from  12  to  17  pauperSj  n<>nc  of 
whoin  arc  permitted  to  go  about  begging,  though  the  cottntrf 
is  overran  with  people  of  that  defcriptioiu  In  tl^c  bad  fca* 
fon«  of  1782  ai)^  1.783,  th(e  kirk-feffion  wcjrc  obliged  to  f^^tcnd 
thc;lr  charity  more  generally,  and,  ^^ith  the  confent  of  the  he- 
ritors, laid  out  a  part  of  their  capital  in  purch^Gng  grain  to 
fupply  the  poprer  inhabitants  of  the  parifli,  who  wer^  in 
thofe  years  redui:cd  to  great  wapt. 

Poptilatiofi, — ^Tlie  population  in  1755  ^^^  99^* 
'The  number  of  fouls  under  10  years  of  age 


in  the  parifli,  are. 

«33 

From  \o  to  20    -      132 

20  to  40    -      210 

4«  to  60    -      105 

€0  to  70    .       74 

70  tq  80    -         5 

8q  to  90    .        4 

Total,        66^ 
Gi  thefe.  there  are  31  q  ntales  and  353  females. 
The  number  of  (parrriages  9nd  baptifm^  for  14  years  from 
7 1 80,  ^r^  asi  follows : 

1780  81  %%  83  84  85  8^  87  88  89  90  91  9&  93  Tot. 

Marriages  729^554441463(6     6» 

Baptifmi,  SI  19    6  12  10  14  i»    7  li  13    6    9  13    6    150 

The  itgiiler  of  marriages  is  Tcry  exad,  and  there  are  none 

irregular ;  fo  that  the  arerage  may  be  ftated  at  4  ^  per  annum. 

,  The  regifter  of  baptifms  is  very  inaccurate,  and  probably  not 

one  half  of  them  entered,  fo  that  no  cdncluCon  can  be  drawn 

from  it.    There  is  no  rcord  whatcYcr  of  deaths.    Of  artifi-- 

<4:ers  thert  are  in  the  parifh,  2  mafom,  9  joiners,  wrights, 

coopers,  and  turners,  two  of  whom  make  a  variety  of  faiuii- 

cal  inftruments  Mrithout  any  education  for  that  purpofe ;  6 

wtSTtrsy  3  bhtck-fmithsi  10  taylbrs^  6  country  merchants,  4 

^illcr»^ 


of  Afford.  477 

millers,  and  %  dyers ;  but  they  all  have  fmall  poffeffion  of 
land  to  fvpport  them  as  well  as  their  trade. 

The  parUh-regifter  goes  no  farther  back  than  17 171  and  is 
fo  very  irregular,  th^t  it  is  impoffible  from  it  to  procure  any 
data  for  afcertaining  the  ancient  population  of  the  parilh,  not 
even  ?t  the  time  of  the  return  to  Dr  Webftcr.  But  tba|t  the 
number  of  inhabitants  in  the  pariih  has  decreafed  very  greats 
ly^  lyithin  A  few  y^ars,  i^  not  to  be  doubted  \  and  the  princi^ 
pal  cjiufe.  feems  to  b^  the  gr^^t  encovragemient  given  at  A« 
ber4(sep  by  the  manufactures  tp  labpupng  people.  This  p^«« 
riOi  was,  however,  in  all  probability,  much  tpxiftt  populous 
loo  years  ago,  than  at  the  time  of  Pr  Webiter's  report  ^  and 
the  rcfafon  of  the  decreafc  feems  to  be,  that  by  the  wearing 
out  of  the  mpfTes,  fuel  has  become  fcarcer  dian  it  was  at 
tl^at  time }  a  reason  which  will  (lill  tend  to  diminifli  the 
number  of  inhabitants,  till  a  more  improv^  ftate  pf  the 
country  ^nablQ  the  people  to  fupport  the  expence  of  009I. 

There  are  no  prevalent  difeafes  in  this  panihi  excepting 
the  hooping  coy^h,  meafles,  and  fmall  pox,  none  of  which 
are  fatal ;  the  danger  of  the  laft  is  much  abated  by  inocula* 
tion,  which  is  becoming  very  general.  There  arc  feveral 
mineral  i^rings  in  the  parifli,  and  though  their  waters  are 
not  ftrong ;  fome  of  them  have  been  attended  with  advan- 
tages. 

Qh(iraEler-—\9>  t^eir  general  chvaftcr,  th^  people  arc  wcH 
entitled  to  commemoatioa,  for  an  phliging  hofpitable  difpo- 
fition,  for  their  religious  condud,  and  regular  attendance  of 
diving  >^Qr(hip,  and  for  having  laid  afide  that  quarrelfome 
temper  which  once  pr^ailed,  without  adopting  m  its  ficad' 
the  fpirit  of  litigiOttlhefs  that  has  fuccecded  it  in  many  places ; 
but  candour  muft  acknowledge,  though  they  poflefs  in  gene- 
iftil  a  laudable  oecconomjr,  they  I^ave  not  yet  fully  acquired 

thofii 


478  Statijlical  Account 

thofc  habits  of  labour  and  induftry,  that  haVc  bettctcd  thd 
condition  of  the  lower  chflcs  of  pcojplc,  in  other  parts  ot 
Scotland  j  an  acquifition  which  muft  always  and  every  where 
be  gradual  in  its  beginnings,  and  which  it  is  hoped^  a  few 
years  will  haften  on  in  this  country^ 

That  predile£lion  and  prejudice  In  favour  of  ancient  modes 
of  hufbandry,  which  has  ftill  fome  ftrong  roots  iii  this  corner^ 
is  not  fo  blapeabic,  as  it  has  been  fo  very  general,  ahd  exett- 
edritfelf  fo  vigoroufly  in  every  country,  in  the  commencement 
6f  improvements  5  but  when  fait  means  arc  taken  to  opcii 
the  eyes  of  the  people^  by  examples  alid  indiljiucable  experi- 
ments, perfevering  in  thttn  is  not  fd  eicufeable  *,  and  fome 
degfee  of  this  cenfdre  mult  be  applied  to  oUr  farmers,  in  per- 
fiding  In  their  old  praflices,  when  they  fee  10  6r  il  bolls  of 
grain  raited  by  good  huibandry,  where  they  could  only  raife 
3  Or  4,  and  excellent  crops  of  turtiips  and  s^rtificial  grades, 
where  they  denied  the  polTibllity  of  producing  them;  Thij 
ccnfure,  however,  is  much  lefs  merited  than  it  was,  fome 
years  ag6 ;  And  the  operations  of  a  few  years  more  may 
change  it  into  applaufe. 

"this  account  cannot  be  concluded  better,  than  by  a  paper,  found  io  tfa^ 
chaner  cheft  of  Mr  Farquharfon  of  Haughcon,  of  a  court  of  the  barooy  of 
Alford,  during  the  Ufurpation  of  the  Convention  t^arliament  o^  Scdtland.— 
The  tranCadion  which  it  records,  fhtyn,  that  the  means  which  they  or  their 
adherents  (for  the  then  proprietor  of  the  barony  was  a  moft  sealout  cove- 
nanter)  employed,  to  fupply  their  treafnry,  maintain  their  forcei,  and  ftp* 
port  their  power,  were  not  very  duOmular  to  thofe  that  have  been  fo  recent* 
ly  and  tyrannically  put  in  pradice  in  a  neighbouiing  Kingdbra ;  for  wb^ 
the  low  (Late  of  agriculture,  the  geneial  poverty  of  the  country,  and  the  fien- 
der  mean*  of  the  commonalty,  at  that  time,  are  contrafled,  with  the  heavi- 
nela  of  the  uxation  tmpofed,  and  the  feverity  of  the  Regulations  for  enfor- 
cing payment,  it  is  well  entitled  to  be  compared  to  a  forced  loan. 

It  fumllhct  a  firong  proof,  that  in  this,  as  in  every  other  country,  arbitrary 
cxadions  have  followed  hard,  after  the  &11  of  equitable  government ;  and  it 
21  a  finking  example  of  the  burdens  and  opprcfllons,  which,  when  hwhd 
nthoHty  is  •vtrtumtd,  muft  be  bom,  not  only  by  the  rich  and  the  great, 


ofAlford.  479 

but  by  the  hnmblc  and  the  poor,  by  the  friends,  as  well  as  the  enenues  of  tbofo  I 
Vrho  fobvert  the  order,  the  peace,  and  the  juftice  of  focietj. 

This  paper  demands  attention,  alfo,  as  affording  fome  proof  of  the  an- 
cient population  of  this  diftri^  All  the  perfons  taxed  held  poffefllone  fromi 
the  laird,  asd  were  heads  of  families,  with  cottars,  graifmen,  fub-tcnanta. 
apd  fervants  under  them,  from  whom  they  were  to  receive  fome  lelief  of  the 
burden  of  the  tax. 

The  number  taxed  by  .name  is  .  •  6z 

And  foi:  the  Kirkton  of  Alford  there  may  be  allowed  3 

Total  of  families  renting  land  64 

The  qnmber  of  thofe  whQ  hold  of  ^he  p  oprietor  at  prefcnt  19  43 

, ,  »■" 
Dccrcafc  .  ,14 
This  decreafe  is  a  diminution  of  the  number  of  families;  and,  if  we  fup- 
pofe  the  numbers  of  ferf ants  &c.  and  fub'tenants,  was  in  proportion  at  that 
time  to  the  number  of  tenants,  the  total  decreafe  of  the  number  of  foulsihuft 
be  very  great. 

\t  is  proper  to  obferre,  that  this  eftate  was  formerly  much  better  provided 
-  with  mofs  than  any  other  in  the  pariih,  or  the  counti7  in  general,  which 
p;ay  have  occa^oned  a  more  than  ordinary  number  of  inhabiunts. 

The  Court  of  the  landis  and  barronie  of  Petiluge,  Moihle  Endovifi  Band-^; 
ley,  Badivin,  and  others  pertinentts,  with  Aidgethen,  Walhoufe, 
Midmill,  Kirktoune  of  Alfuird^  and  this  pertinetts,  be  the  richt 
'honourable  Jon  Forbes  of  Lcfly,  heritorr  thereof,  halden  at  Pctflu^, 
the  tent  day  of  Agufl,  laivi  and  fourtie  and  aught  years.  7bomas 
Davidfine  portioner,  of  Aigethcn,  bailzie ;  WllUame  Reii,  clarke  of 
court;  George  Touch  in  Dykcheid,  officiar;  Dempjier  the  Ait t is,.  caU 
let  members  prent,  the  court  fenllt  in  forme  and  maneir  as  e^eirs. 

The  faid  day  compeirit  George  Touch,  in  Dykeheid,  and  hes  giwen  his 
aith  to  be  honed  and  trew  in  ye  office  officiarie,  in  ye  ground  and  baron ie  of 
Pitflage,  ay  and  tyll  he  be  difchargit. 

The  faid  day  compeirit  Alexander  'Wat,  being  perfewit  for  to  fcheir  in 
harveft  to  WilKame  Paterfoni,  in  Bandley ;  and  being  accuHt,  hes  givvea 
his  aith  to  be  free  of  the  faid  jperfute  ;  and  theirfoir,  the  faid  Alexander  Wat 
tnoft  pay  his  teynd  oT  beir  and  Siitts:  fine  the  faid  Alexander,  his  wyf  is  o« 
bleigt  to  fcheir  in  harvcll  to  Williame  Paterfone  in  Bandley. 

The  faid  day,  James  Ingrabame  in  Mikill  En<iovfe,  is  dccercDit  and  or- 
denirtbe  ye  bailze,  to  go  hanie  to  Jon  Couper,  and  mike  his  aducUreli- 

dcncc 


480 


Statifticai  Account 


^  dence  In  bii  meUling  atrd  g;f«hind,  smd  to  pey  for  the  fiune  tt  he  )ut  pnu 
mdflcfaet,  aDd  fie  lyke  to  pay  to  James  Winter,  fike  dewctiet  atid  fernti  as  ht 
lies  promiffit  t6  him  for  this  yeir,  aeco^dibg  as  they  wt  agreeit ;  or  elfiTto  pey 
the  &3ze  as  the  hailie  decerns. 

'the  faid  day  it  ii  decerhit  to  ^y  he  Joo  Smyth  in  Cleymyr,  3  dollars  for 
lerie  and  tranfp«rt  moneyls  to  ye  forecs,  hetwixt  this  and  th^  day  atigfat  dayes« 


Mr  William  Zong,  in  Cleymyr, 

Mr  Patrike  Innes,  in  Petflug, 

^r  Alexander  Smyth,  in  Shathheid, 

Mr  George  Touch,  in  Dykcheid,        • 

Mr  Andrew  Smyth,  in  BeAtts, 

Joh  Bainet,  in  Bentts^ 

Jon  Mitchell,  yr,  ; 

Jatacs  Chalmer,  in  MtkiU  Endovie, 

Ihmcan  Mitchell,  in  Bandley, 

Alctander  Ritchie,  iA  Bandley, 

Tonus  Mufchant,  cbrdinef,        ; 

William  Jamefone,  webder, 

Janies  Tngrahame,  tailseor, 

Jon  Mikie,  fmyth  in  Mckill  EndoYie, 

James  £dic,  milliart, 

Robert  Gib,  in  Petflug. 

Mr  Alexander  Calder,  in  Famtowne. 

Mr  James  Mar,  yr,  , 

Mr  James  Marnoch,  is  Elriche, 

Mr  Jon  Walker,  yr,        .  .        . 

Walter  Robcrtfone,  in  Cleyttyr, 

Tomas  Galloway,  MiklU  Endovie, 

William  Forbes,  in  IVfikill  Endovie, 

Elflpit  WilTdn,  yr, 

Adam  Bamet,  yr^ 

Elitpit  Cou^land,  in  Bandley, 

Alexander  Wat,  in  Bandley, 

Jon  Mitchell,  in  Badivin, 

James  Banie,  in  Badivin, 

WilKath  W}T,  in  Smiddlehill. 

Alexander  Mitchell,  yr, 

Jon  Mikie,  in  Greyflane, 

James  Ed  wart,  in  Aidgethcn, 

William  Edwart,  yr, 

Alexander  Yuill, 


twa  doUers  and  ane  half. 

sne  doller. 

4  dollers. 

*  I  doUer  apd  anc  half. 

fonrtie  (hilling. 

adollers. 

X  doller. 

ten  mks. 

i  dollers. 

ten  mks. 

X  doller. 

X  doller, 

X  doller. 

X  mk,  pcyit.  , 

I  doller,  pcyit. 

I  doller. 

X  doUcr. 

40  fs. 

X  doller. 

X  doller. 

1  doller. 

i  doller. 

fyVir'c  niks. 

halfdbller. 

halfdoUer. 

f  mk. 

iburtie  fehilliogs,  pey  it. 

X  doller. 

X  doUer. 

I  doller. 

I  merk. 

40  fchilling,  peyit. 

^  dolleri. 

X  doUer. 

half  doller. 

•       G^CBgC 


of  Kilbarcban.  489 

Mines^  Coal^  Limeftone- — There  are  feven  different  coal 
mines  in  the  paxifti,  all  the  property  of  the  Millikcn  family, 
excq>t  one,  the  property  of  Mr  Cunningham  of  Craigends. 
Lime-ftone  is  found  connected  with  the  coal  at  each  6f  thefe 
mines.  Only  4  of  them  are  at  prefent  wrought,  and  at  3  of 
them,  no  coal  is  fold  but  the  fplint,  the  reft  being  confumed 
in  burning  the  lime.  But  the  fourth  produces  more  coal  than 
is  confumed  i>pon  the  lime.     The  overplus  is  fold  \  but  is 

Vol.  XV.  3  R-  not 

times,  they  might  have  been  ufed  as  pbces  of  rendezvous,  where  chiefs  and 
▼aiCds  might  fettle  their  difputet,  yet  they  appear  to  have  been  originaUy 
burrows,  or  mopoments  ere^ed  over  the  bmlies  of  warriors. 

I  am  iocUned  to  think  this  mound  has  been  a  fort,  or  ou(-poft  of  the  Rjq- 
mans,  when  (lationed  at  Paifley,  and  intended  to  keep  the  inhabitants  of  the 
mountains  in  check.  It  commands  a  ful}  view  of  the  Roman  camp  at  Paifley, 
diftant  abbttt  6  miles, and  might  communicate  with  it  by  fignals. 

A  littk  to  the  £aft  of  the  caftle,  there  are  the  vefliges  of  an  old  Romiih 
chappl ;  though  nothing  remains  but  the  foundation,  yet  the  prefeht  tenant, 
Robert  Donaldlbn,  fays,  his  father  remembered  the  waDs  3  feet  high.  The 
4oor  was  of  clay,  which  being  dug,  contained  human  bones.  The  farm  is 
called  Priefion  ;'and  the  houfe  remains  the  fame  as  when  the  prieft  lived  in 
it 

On  the  top  of  Bar-hill,  formerly  mentioned,  in  a  commanding  fituation, 
are  the  remains  of  an  old  Danifli  encampment.  It  confifts  of  a  femi.circular 
parapet  of  loofe  ftones  towards  the  South,  and  defended,  on  the  North,  by  the 
|ierpeodicular  bafaltic  rocks,  already  mentioned.  The  tradition  concerning 
it  among  the  people  here,  is,  that  it  was  an  encampment  of  the  celebrated  Sir 
William  Wallace  :  and  they-ihew  a  pinnacle  of  rock,  where  they  fay  Wal- 
lace fat,  whik  he  enticed  the  Englifh  forces  into  a  bog  at  the  bottom  of  th« 
rock,  where  they  periihed.  But  as  our  hiftorians  make  no  mention  of  this, 
I  am  inclined  t«  think  (he  fortiQcation,  frqm  it«  circular  fomi^of  Daniih  ori- 
gin. 

There  arc  two  other  ruinous  caftles,  one  to  the  We(^,  anciently  the  ff^at 
•f  the  Crawfords ;  but  now  demoliflied  almbft  to  the  foundation.  This  caftle^ 
with  the  lands  annexed  to  it,  were  called  Achinames,  which  in  Gaelic  means 
ihejidd  9/  hitur.  The  other,  on  the  North-welk,  on  the  lands  of  Pcnneld,  is 
(aid  to  be  built  by  one  of  the  name  of  Haia ;  but  he  being  killed  in  the  iA^ 
terim^  It  was  never  finiCbed.  * 


4^o  Statij^ical  Account 

not  in  gi^t  requefti  as  coil  .of  a  much  fupmrior  quality  is 
brought  from  the  neighbouring  parifli  of  ^^aifley.  This 
coal  is  furnUhed  at  6d.  each  cwt. 

Ecclejtajlical  State. — The  church  was  built,  or  rather  re- 
built, in  1724,  and  is  very  commodious.  It  is  fituated  in  the 
village.  There  is  alfo  in  the  village,  a  houfe  of  worftiip  for 
perfons  of  the  Relief  perfuafion,  and  another  on  the  hills,  a- 
bout  a  mile  to  the  weft,  belonging  to  tlie  Seceders. 

The  manfe  formerly  flood  in  the  village,  and  the  glebe  in 
different  parcels  around.  Put  in  1752,  the  glcjbe  and  manfe 
were  excambiated,  at  the  requcft  of  Mr  Milliken  of  ijlilliken) 
the  patron,  who  wiihed  to  acquire  the  glebe  for  the  purpofe 
of  feuing  it  for  building.  The  manfe  now  (lands  on  a  beau* 
tiful  eminence  one-eighth  of  a  mile  (outh  qf  ijie  town,  in  the 
centre  of  the  glebe,  which  is  i6\  acros,  all  enclofe4  and  fub- 
divided.  The  ftipend  is  7  chalders  of  meal,  200I.  Scotch  in 
money,  with  an  augmentation  obtained  in  i792,of  35I.  Ster* 
ling.  Co|[nputing  the  meal  at  is*  per  peck,  the  Ilipend  a- 
mounts  to  14  iL  4s.  cjd*  communion  elements  included. 
The  patronage  of  the  church  is  veiled  in  the  family  of  Mil- 
liken.  The  church  formerly  belonged  to  the  Abbey  of  Paif* 
ley. 

Rmarkable  Perjbns. — ^John  Knox,  the  celebrated  .Scotti(h 
reformer,  was  defcended  from  a  very  ancient  family  in  this 
pariih.  His  anceftors  were  originally  proprietors  of  the  lands 
of  Kmchy  in  the  pariih  of  Renfrew,  from  whence  the  family 
derived  the  fimamc  of  the  Knocks,  or  Knox,  They  after- 
wards obtained  the  lands  of  Craigends,  and  of  Jlanfutly^  both 
in  this  parifli,  and  refided  long  at  the  old  Caftle  of  Aanfurly 
already  defcribed.  In  proof  of  what  we  here  affcrt,  we  refer 
to  Seroplc's  hiftory  of  Renfrcw-lbirc,    This  family  failed  in 

the 


if  l^itbdtcbau.       '  4^i 

the  pe'rfoTi  of  Mr  Andrew  Knox,  a  clergyman  of  ttic  moderate 
party,  in  the  reign  of  iCing  James  the  VI.  and  much  efteemed 
by  men  of  all  parties.  On  the  refloration  of  bifliops,  ^ing 
James  tiranlla'ted  him  to  the  biOiopficlc  of  the  Ides  i66<S  \  and 
in  1622,  to  the  Epifcopal  feeo^  li^apKo  in  Treland.  He  died 
1632.  This  bidibp  had  a^fbh,  Thomas  ICnox,  who  fucceed- 
ed  his  father  in  the  Eplfcopacy  of  the  Ifles,  but  died'foon  af- 
ter His  promotion  •• 

3^  i  Briage*' 

*  The  SeQnplet  of  Beltreet,  whofe  refidence  wm  at  Thirdpart,  now  the 
property  of  Mr  M'Dowall  of  Garthland,  were  a  very  antient  iamilj  in  this 
parifli,  and  dcfcended  from  the  nobfe  faniily'of  Semple.  From  this  Bunilf, 
feveral  remarkable  perfont  have  fpnmg.  As»  ift*  Sir  James  Semple,  who  waa 
a  great  favourite  of  James  VI.  while  King  of  Scotland,  and  by  him  fent  am« 
baflador  to  Qaeen  Elizabeth.  There  u  yec  extant^  a  letter,  written  by  King" 
James,  daud  Sept.  9th,.  Z599,  to  Mr  James  Semple  of  Belltrees,  while  aaa- 
baflador  at  London,  ordering  him  to  pay  Robert  Fowlis,  from  the  ixQ^  of 
his  falary  as  ambafllidor,  the  fum  of  one  hundred  pounds  ftei^iing,  for  oertain 
purpofes,  therein  mentioned  There  is  alfo  a  paflport  for  his  returo/r«N»  th€ 
Cmtrt  a  lUchwiMdy  the  %^9f  PAruarj  IS99%  ^Z°^  hy  •*  Thomas  Egerton, 
George  HanCday,  William  KnoUys,  Thomas  Buckhorfe,  Robert  North,  Ro- 
bert CecyU,"  the  minifters  of  Elizabeth.  In  the  year  1601,  after  he  had  been 
made  a  Knight  Bachelor,  he  was  fent  ambafiador  to  France,  and  there  is  fiill 
extant, a  paiTport^or  drdcr,  fromthi  Cettri  at  R'ttbrnwdy  ibe/tmrtb  «f  0&,  i6oi. 
to  have  him  conduced  with  all  due  rcfpeA,  befitting  the  dignity  of  an  ara- 
b^0ador,  through  England  to  Dover,  on  his  way  to  France,  ligned  £;  Cc 
tyU,    Thcfe  papers  are  ftill  in  the  pofieiiion  of  his  defcendants. 

Thi*  gentleman  poiTeiTed  a  poetical  talent,  and  was  authoi'  of  tbt  Pa$kmam 
mndtht  Prufii  a  Satire  on  the  abfurdities  of  Popery,  the  great  fubjed  which 
then  agitated  the  minds  of  men. 

.ad,  Robert  Sample,  fon,  and  fucccfibr  of  this  Sir  James,  was  author  of  an 
Epitaph  and  Elegy,  on  Habie  Simpfon,  Piper  of  Kilbarchan,  < 

Who  on  his  bags,  wore  bonie  flags. 
He  made  his  cheeks  as  red  as  crimfon, 
And  bobbed  when  he  blo'ed  the  bags. 

This  piece  is  too  long  for  infertion ;  bat  it  has  acquired  much  local  cele» 
brity, 

3d,  Fr^ds,  ion  of  Robert;  vras  an  adherent  of  the  Stewart  Family.  He 
wrott  ieveral  panegyrics  00  James  IK  while  Duke  of  York  and  Albany ;  and 

•n 


4^1  Stati/lical  Account 

Bridges,  RoaJs'-r-Thc  bridges  arc  in  good  repair,  and 
the  roads,  though  not  the  very  bed,  are  better  than  in  any 
neighbouring  parifh.  The  roads  are  moftly  made  by  private 
gentlemen,  with  the  afliftance  of  the  ftatute  labour.  Any 
repair  they  get,  is  from  the  ftatute  labour,  which  is  paid  in 
kind,  and  no  commutation  allowed,  except  for  the  inhabi- 
tants of  the  village. 

A  toll-road  is  now  making  from  Paiflcy  to  Newport,  Gbf- 
gow,  by  the  bridge  of  Johnfon,  and  Elilmacolm,  which  pafles 
through   this  parifli.     Another  is  in  contemplation,  from 

Paifley 

on  the  bitth  of  hit  children ;  idfo,  (atires  upoo  the  Whigt,  fome  of  which  ftill 
remain  in  MaDofcript.  He  was  alfo  nuthor  of  two  piecet  of  confiderabie 
merit;  the'  firft  intitled,  The hatuJbwBuU ^f  .Powriy^  and  the  fccond,  the  celfr- 
bntfld  Scotch  Umg-^Sbe  roft  ami  Ui  me  itu  < 

4*  Robert  Serople,  grandfon  of  Francis,  we  mention,  as  a  remarltable  m* 
fiance  of  longevity.  He  died  17S9,  aged  108  years.  He  was  the  firft  in  the 
nomination  of  Jofiices  of  the  Peace  for  Scotland,  in  the  year  1708,  being  the 
year  after  the  Union*  Towards  the  dofe  of  life,  his  memory  gradually  failed 
htm.  Two  anecdotes  of  his  early  life,  remained  imprefled  upon  his  memo, 
ry ,  after  every  other  circumftance  was  forgotten.  The  firft  was,  his  being 
prefent,  while  the  witches  were  burnt  at  Paifley,  the  laft  deteftable  ezhibitida 
ef  that  kind  in  Scotland,  which  happened  1697  *•  The  fecond  was,  his  hav- 
ing  feen  Pete^the  Great,  Czarof  Ruffia,  at  Archangel,  who,amufing  him- 
felf  with  fome  fea  animals  in  a  pond^  one  of  them  faapped  at  him,  and  bit 
the  cock  ofi*  his  hat.  This  laft  occurrence  he  continued  to  repeat  to  the  d^ 
of  his  death,  after  he  had  forgotten  every  other. 

Among  the  remarkable  perfons  cooneded  with  this  parifti,  wo  may  mot^ 
tton  James  Milliken,  of  Milliken,  £fq.  He  was  the  firft  who  mtrodaoed  t«- 
ral  improTcitients  into  the  parifli,  on  an  eztenfive  fcale.  He  adorned  hit  c^ 
tate  with  plantations,  arranged  with  great  tafte.  He  inclofed,  drained,  fal- 
lowed, and  reduced  his  lands  into  an  elegant  form.  He  fiHl  excited  a  tafte 
for  good  roads  in  the  parifli,  many  of  which  he  made  at  his  own  expence. 
lit  his  improvements  he  i))ared  no  expence,  efteeming  nothing  done,  while 
any  thing  remained  undone.  He  died  An,  1776,  much  lamcAted  by  the  poor, 
•n  account  of  his  extenfive  charity. 

«  Semple*!  Hiftory  of  Reofrewfliire. 


of  KUbarcban^  493 

Paiflcy  by  Ltnwoodi  interfcaing  the  eaftcm  part  of  th^  pa- 
Tiih^  until  it  forms  a  jun£lion  with  the  new  toll  road  from 
Glafgow  to  Greenock.  Thefe  roads  will  be  of  great  advan- 
tage to  the  parifliy  and  make  it  the  thorough-fare  between  the 
fottthern  counties^  and  the  ports  of  Clyde. 

Population. — The  numbersi  as  ftated  in  Dr  Webfter's  lift 
in  1755,  were,  1485. 

Abstract  of  the  Population  of  Kilbarchan  Paris9» 
As  taken  by  aBual  Survey  in  the  year  1 791. 


In 

TBI  Cou» 

rTET, 

Number  of  Families,  172 

• 

Males, 

440 

Fcmak^, 

4«» 

• 

Under  10^ 

194 

• 

From  10  to  so, 

009 

• 

From  20  to  50, 

380 

t 

From  50  to  70, 

I3» 

• 

Above  70, 

7 

Servants, 

%i% 

Looms,           : 

34 

• 

Horfes, 

»4» 

• 

Cowi, 

^%^^ 

Acres,             , 

6684 

- 

HeDt, 

L.  454* 

• 

In  the  Towif»           ToTAU 

391 

J^3 

76a 

110} 

Z%% 

1304 

.     465 

^59 

%%s 

494 

•      598 

•        .         97« 

aoa 

•      •             334 

34 

41 

»5 

»»7 

383 

417 

19 

a6E 

4» 

1319 

• 

6684 

. 

U  454* 

^Vtorn  this  table  it  appears^  tliat  the  number  of  fouls  in  the 
pan.(h>  when  the  lift  was  taken,  was,  250V5,  viz.  1202  males, 
tad  1304  females.  Of  thefe,  602  belong  to  the  eftabliihed 
church ;  there  are  about  30  Cameronians ;  all  the  reft  are  of 
the  Burgher,  or  Relief  perfualkm. 

The  population  in  the  village,  1740,  dicl  not  exceed  40  fa- 
fldilies.  Since  thaC  time,  there  is  an  increafe  of  35 1  families, 
which,  upon  an  average,  is  about  7  families  yearly. 

In 


494'  Stdtijlicdl  Account 

In  the  year  1 774,  wlicn  Semplc  took*  a  lift  of  the  popula- 
tion for  his  Hiftory  of  Rcnfrewfliirc,  there  were,  in  the  vil- 
lage. 
Famines.        Mades,        Femaleil  M.  &  F.  Ko       Loomi. 

304  547  637      Todd       1184  t4»  M 

In  the  country  there  were,  •       •       ilfti 

&i^  in  the  ParUh  are,  2305 

From  this  ftatement,  it  appears,  that  the  poj^ulatioh  of  the 
country  part  of  the  panQi,  has  diixiiniihed  1991  fince  die  year 
1774;  but  the  population  of  the  village  has  increafed  400. 
Increafe  upon  the  whole,  201  • 

Fitim  1774'  to  17821'  there  was  ah  itimaTe  in  the  village 
of  iCfo  looms,  and  24  nevr  hoiifes.  The>  villages  haid  not  in- 
creaTed  much  Gnce  that  time,  owing  to  the  cotton  mills  e- 
re&ed  within  a  mile  of  Kilbarchan,  on  Mr  Houfton's  cflate, 
in  the  pariih  of  Paifleyi  which  have  attra£b(!d  the  ^pulation 
to  that  quarter. 

The  diminution  of  the  country  population,  and  increafe 
of  the  town,  may  be  afcribed  to  the  immenfe  demand  for 
,  manufafturing  labour,  which  took  place  foon  after  the  con- 
clution  of  the  American  war.  Yet  the  country  has  not  fuf- 
fefed  in  its  cultivation.  A  greater  proportion  has  indeed 
been  thrown  into  pafture,  which,  inftead  ot  being  a  lofs,  is  an 
advantage. 

One  cif cumftahoe  muft  ftrike  every  perfon,  who  ^eruies 
our  table  of  population,  that  the  number  of  females  in  the 
country,  exceeds  the  males  by  42,  ahd,  in  the  town,  they  ex- 
ceed the  males  by  60.  This  may  perhaps  be  accounted  for 
by  fuppofm^  that  the  farmer's  keep  more  female  fervants 
than  males,  for  the  management  of  their  dairies,  while  their 
younger  fons  are  fent  to  towns,  and  trained  to  buGnefs.  In 
the  village,  on  the  other  hand,  th^  bleachfields,  and  cotton 
manufactories,  which  have  long  prevailed|  require  more  fe- 
males than  males. 

The 


o/*  Kiharcban.  495 

*  The  village  b  built  of  excellent  {ireeftone^  procured  (rom 
a  neighbouring  quarry  of  very  great  depth)  on  the  weftem 
declivity  of  the  Bar-hill,  already  mentioned.  One  remarkable 
circumftance  attending  this  quarry,  is,  that  the  frecftone  has 
coal  over  it,  and  whinftone  above. the  coal,  next  the  furface. 
The  northern  fide  of  the  Bar-hill  is  perpendicular  bafalt,  in- 
cumbent upon  coal,  which  Was  formerly  wrought  to  a  con- 
fiderable  extent.  This.fa£l  feems  to  overturn. the  prevailing 
^theories  of  (Natural  Hiftory. 

Lwing,  Dre/s  and  Manners, — All  clafles  of  people  live 
better  now  than  they  did  formerly^  Oatmeal  and  potatoes 
make  a  great  part  of  the  food  of  the  lower  people.  About 
20  years  ago,  tea  and  butcher's  meat  were  very  feldom  tailed 
by  any  of  the  lower  ranks.  Now  thev  are  more  or  lefs  ufed 
by  people  of  every  defcription.  The  people  are,  in  general, 
fober  and  induftrious.  If  they  indulge  in  any  extravagance, 
it  is  chieQy  in  the  article  of  drefs ;  in  this  they  are  much 
more  gay  and  fplandid  than  formerly.  At  the  fame  time, 
they  are  daily  acquiring  more  politenefs  and  urbanity  of 
manners. 

-Bm/^m/icw,— There  have  been  no  emigrations  from  the 
parifh  thefc  14  years  ;  but  this  year,  1794,  3  families  have 
emigrated  to  America,  and  many  more  are  preparing  to  fol- 
low, from  the  fa^tal  decay  of  trade,  and  want  of  employment. 

Wars. — ^In  former  wars,  a  number  of  tradefmen  were  wont- 
to  go  to  fea,  particularly  to  privateers,  where  they  expe£led 
better  wages,  and  were  more  certain  of  prize-money,  than  in 
the  iiavy^  But  they  feldom  remained  longer  than  the  war 
)a(led.  In  the  prefcnt  war,  55  young  men  have  gone  from  the 
village  to  the  army,  and  15  to  the  navy  \  befides  otliers  from 

the 


49^  Statijlical  Account 

the  country,  as  they  (zy^from  pure  neeejjity^  It  is  remarkablCf 
that  thofc  who  formerly  went  to  the  fea  fervicc,  on  their  re- 
turn^ generally  turned  out  drunken  and  diflipated  \  thofe  a- 
gain,  who  returned  from  the  army,  generally  proved  ibber  and 
iuduftrious. 

Charitable  Societies. — ^There  are  three  charitable  focieties  in 
Ktlbarchan  :  \fty  The  farmers  fociety,  which  has  accumulat- 
ed a  capital  of  850I.  Sterling :  ai,  The  general  fociety,  con- 
fiding of  heritorsy  merchant^,  and  tradefmen,  has  accumu-' 
lated  a  capital  of  400I. :  31/,  The  weavers  fociety,  has  accu*- 
mulated  little  capital^  from  exceflive  burdens  *,  but  has  been 
Qi  very  great  ufe,  and  relieved  much  diftrefst* 

Poor. — The  poor»  in  fo  far  as  they  are  not  relieved  by  thefe 
charitable  aflbciations,  are  fupported  by  a  voluntary  aflefs^ 
ment  annually  impofed,  added  to  what  arifes  from  the  feflions 
funds.  Formerly  the  poor  were  fupported  by  church  collec- 
tions, Intereft  of  money  accumulate^,  money  aiiCng  from 
iQOTtcIoths,  marriages,  &c.  But,  firom  the  increafe  of  trade 
and  population,  and,  confequently,  of  the  poor,  thefe  funds 
proved  inadequate*  In  July  17851  the  method  of  afleiTaiient 
was  recurred  to,  and  was  levied  as  follows  :  Th^  land  paid 
at  the  rate  of  3d.  per  Scots  of  valuation,  on^  half  being  paid 
by  the  landlord,  the  otlier  by  the  tenants,  This  produced 
78K  9s.  3^d.  There  was  levied  upon  the  houfeholders,  in 
the  town  and  country  part  of  tbe  pari(h  %\\.  ios«  8|:d.  The 
fciTions  funds  produced  from  lol.  to  12L  The  amount  being 
from  iiol.  to  112I.  then  levied  for  the  relief  of  the  poor. 
The  affeflment  has  been  gradually  increafing,  and  now  a- 
mounts  to  about  140I.  a  year,  , 

This  fund  is  managed  by  fifteen  perfons,  annually  chofen 
on  the  ift  Friday  of  Noven\]^r  \  five  of  whom  are  heritorst 

fire 


(fAlford.  481 

Georg  Marnoch,  in  Mikill  Endovie,        .     ^    40  fchiUing^es. 

William  Gillcfpie,  in  Elrike.  .        •  20  fcbillinges. 

Walltam  Ritchie,  in  Bandley,        •        «  40  fchiliinget. 

Jon  Anderfone,  yeir,  •  •  x  inerk.s 

AndiTW  Bairie,  Badivio,.        •        •  fto  fchilling. 

Alexander  Criftifone,  yr,  •  •        i  mk. 

James  Martfn,  in  Aidgetfajsn,  •  4  likft  s 

James  Mortimer,  yr,  '         .  .  X  mk. 

James  Coaper,  ye  zoonger,        •  •  i  mk. 

Jon  Pailzeor,  in  Alfoird,  .  •        z  mk. 

William  Perrie,.in  Walhotts,        .  ao  Ichilliag. 

Jane  Sept,  Mikill  Endovie,  and  his  nuriih  %o  fchilling ;  Ifobell    Mill,  in 

£lrike,  10  fchiUtngs;  Itirflfaoe  Coutts  in  Bandtey,  lo  fchillings;  Margret 

Gleny  yr,  10  fchillings ;  Ifobell  Leang  in  Badivin,  lo  fchillings;  Margret 

Edwart,  in  Aidgcthen,  10  fchillings;  Kirllane  Couper  in  Aidgethen,  10 

fchillings. 

The  faJcf  day  if  is  flatut  and  ordenit,  Be  ye  baQze,  to  pey  and'  delyrer  peyit 
to  James  Wince  in  Mikill  Endovie,  5  mks,  40  pence. 

Item.  Elfpet  Storach  in  Bandlcy,  •  •  5  mks,  and  40  pence. 

Jtiwf^  the  i^eard*  himTeiT  fef  the-  mantis,        •        •         5  inks',  and  40  pence* 
JUm,  Patrick  Mortimer  in  Greyftane,  •       ;  5  mks,  and  40  pence. 

James  Cooper  in  Aidgethtn,        .  •        •  5  >nk*  &°d  40  pence. 

Item,  William  Fcrbes  in  Middleliill,        •        .  5  mks,  and  40  peace. 

JUm.  John  Cpapland  in  Bandley,        .        •  5  mks,  40  pence,  peyit. 

The  faid  day  it  is  ordainit  and  deccrnit,  be  ye  baiize,  that  all  the  forfaid 
perfons  that  peyis  nocht  the  forfaid  moncyis  above  written,  betwiz  this  axi^ 
th^  day  aught  dayis,  fal  be  peyndit  for  the  dowbiU; 
Item,  the  KIrktoune  of  Alfuird,  the  haill  of  it,  5  merks^ 4^  pence,  peyit. 

The  faid  day  it  is  ilatut  and  ordainit,  be  ye  laird  and  baike,  that  the  maf- 
terls  of  the  cotters,  girfmen,  and  others,  fcrvents  that  dwells  with  them,  fal 
be  obluight  for  ycir  fcrvents ;  and  gif  the  pey  nocht  their  maiilcris,  they  fal 
be  pyndit  far  the  dowbill,  betwiz  thi«  and  ye  daye  aught  dayes,  of  ye  levie 
and  tranfport  moneys,  and  the  poyodls  to  be  delyveric  to  ye  maiibies,  and 
never  to  be  rejievytt  agane. 

The  faid  it  is  flacut  and  ordainit,  that  the  forfaid  aA  fal  be  eztendit  to  ye 
•  Over  and  Nether  Hach,  to  ye  tenncntts,  fub«tenents  and  occupiers  thereof,  and 
the  cKcufion  to  pafs  aganis  yamtf  for  therr  publick  dewls,  and  levic  money, 
and  tranfport  moneyis,  monthly  mantencnce,  putting  out  of  fit  and  horfe, 
conform  to  yc  compt  of  debarfements  to- be  cqualle  dtvydiU  amang  yame,  as 
ye  reft  of  ye  ground  hes  done. 

Contintiis  this  court  to  feventie  four  hours  warning. 
CulSglmtu  Reld^  »otarius  fublicy*  ac  teflu  infremjJIiii  ngatus  et  requifittu. 

Davidsons,  BtUU, 

Vol.  XV.  3  C^  NUMBE^. 


482 .  Statijlical  Account 


.  NUMBER   XXIII. 


PARISH  OF  KILBARCHAN, 


(County  o?  Renfrew,  Presbttert  of  Paisley,  Synod 
OF  Glasgow  and  Ayr.) 


By  the  Rev.  Patrick  Maxwell,  Minister. 


Name. 


HE  name  Kilbarcban^  (eems  to  have  orgiiiated  from  the 
perfon  who  iirft  founded  a  place  of  worftiip  here. 

Some,  however,  think  the  name  compounded  of  three 
Gaehc  words  ;  vis.  Kll^  (ignifying  chapel^  bar  or  brae^  a  billf 
ihan  a  valley  ox  plain.  According  to  this  derivation,  Kilbarch^ 
Oftf  means  the  cAapel  of  ike  InU^founied  vale* 

This  lad  derivation  is  exafily  defcriptive  of  the  local  poii* 
tion  of  the  village,  in  which  the  church  is  fituated..  It  is  built 
upon  a  declivity,  which  terminates  in  a  plain  towards  the 
South,  through  which  runs  a  clear  rivulet,  of  the  fameiiame« 
It  is  furrounded  on  three  fides,  with  hilly  grounds,  having 
the  Banks  Brae  to  the  South- weft,  the  lands  of  Law  to  the 

Nordi 


ofKilbarcban*  483 

North-weft,  amd  the  Bar  Brae  to  the  Eaft,  all  moil  beautiful- 
ly adorned  with  thriving  plantations  of  trees. 

Extent  J  Soun  Janes,  Rivers. — The  parifh  of  Kilbarchan  is 
betwixt  8  and  9  miles  in  length,  from  Weft  to  Eaft.  Its 
greateft  breadth  is  5  miles,  two  where  narroweft  5  and  its 
average  breadth  about  3  mites.  Its  whole  furface  may  a- 
mount  t6  about  24  fquare  miles.  It  is  bounded  on  the  South 
and  Eaft  by  the  water  of  Black  Cart,  which  runs  from  the 
lakes  of  Kilburnie'and  Lochwinnock,  on  the  Weft  ;  on  the 
North  by  Cryfc  water,  which  takes  its  rife  in  Duchai  muir, 
in  the  adjoining  parifh  of  Kihnacolm ;  thefe  two  ftreams 
form  a  jundion  at  the  North-eaft  corner  of  the  parifh  f . 

3  QjZ  (Climate, 

f  Tbere  i*  alfo  a  confiJcrable  nvnlet^  named  Loqher,  which  hai  its  Tourct 
in  Ijochwionock  muir,  and  divides  the  partihes  of  Lockwinnock  and  Kilma^ 
cqlm,  before  it  enters  this  parifh.  It  then  mm  nearly  the  whole  length  o£ 
the  parifh,  parallel  to  jthe  two  ih-eams  above  mentioned ;  forn^ing,  in  its  pro- 
grels,  federal  beautiful  cafcades,  of  which  to  convey  a  proper  ide»,  woukl 
require  the  pencil. 

The  whole  fall  of  the  Black  Cart  ii  occupied  with  cotton  milU,  four  of 
which  arc  fituated  in  the  Abbey  parifh  of  Paifley,  on  the  fouchern  bank  pf 
the  river,  and  one  on  the  Northern  bank,  to  be  afterwards  defcribed. 

From  the  Oryfe  on  the  North,  this  county  derived  its  mod  ancient  name 
•i  8tr0*bgrjifi,  The  tid^  makes  about  a  mile  up  both  Oryfe  and  Cai;t,a&d  tfa^ 
ate  navigable  to  that  extent  from  their  point  of  jundion.  But  from  the  c^t-p 
ton  mills  ereded  on  Cart,  it  is  afceruincd  that  the  elevation  of  Kilbumie 
loch,  above  the  level  of  the  fea,  does  not  exceed  84  feet.  This  loch  runs  in- 
differently, either  Eaft  ward  or  Welt  ward,  and  might  eaiily  be  conveyed  Baft- 
ward  by  a  canal  to  PaiHy  and  Glafgow,  or  Weftward  to  the  ocean. 

Qryfe,  .Cart^  and  Lo^her  aboMnd  ^itl>  fk4mon,  pyke,  trout,  parr.  The 
falmoD  are  caught  in  June  and  July,  weigh  from  3  to  8  lb,,  and  bring  about 
3d.  per  lb.    The  other  fifh  are  fcldom  fold. 

The  whole  parifh  is  abundantly  fupplied  with  fprings  and  rivulets  of  very 
pare  water,  which  is  of  great  advantage  to  the  bleachers  fettled  here,  in 
whitening  .their  clotbt    In  che  low  part  of  the  ^ifh,  where  the  foil  i«  deep 

cUy 


4^4  Stati^ical  Account 

Climatiy  Surfofie^  ScU* — ^The  climate  i^  ycry  wet,  but  is  jiet 
efteemed  unhealthy. 

The  eaftern  divifion  of  the  parilh  is  a  flat,  level  cotatry, 
the  weftern  is  billy  and  ia  part  rocky.  Abeut  one  third  of 
the  Eaft  and  Nortb-e^ft,  copfifts  of  a  vpry  deep  clay. 

Of^this  eaftern  divifion,  500  acres  are  occupied  by  a  mola 
from  7  to  9  feet  in  depth ;  the  common  property  of  Lord 
Semplc,  Mr  Spiers  of  Elderflie,  Mr  Cunningham  of  Craig- 
ends,  and  Mr  Napier  of  Blackftoiie.  About  an  acre  of  thia 
mofs  is  annually  taken  off  in  peats,  by  tlie  neighbouring  m^ 
habitant?.  The  foil  below  is  a  deep  white  clay^  where  ha$ 
formerly  been  a  foreft  The  oak  is  perfe£^ly  frefli ;  this  Or 
ther  kinds  of  timber  are  rotten.  The  ftumps  in  general  zrp 
ftandfng  in  their  original  poGtion.  The  trees  are  all  broken 
over  at  about  the  height  of  3  feet,  and  are  lying  frpm  South- 
weft  to  North-eaft.  So  wherever  you  fee  a  ftump,  you  are 
fure  to  find  a  tree  to  the  North-eaft.  How  an  oak  tree  coutd 
break  over  at  that  particular  place,  I  never  could  underftand^ 
But  we  may  be  allowed  to  form  a  ponjei^ure,  that  before  the 
tree -fell,  the  mofs  had  advanced  along  its  ftem,  and  rotted 
It  there.  Wood,  immerfed  in  a  wet  body,  is  found  to  decay 
fir  ft  at  the  ring  between  the  wet  and  the  dry. 

The  theory  of  mofles  is  now  illuftrated  in  a  fatisfa£lory 
manner.  They  have  all  been  woods  at  a  former  period* 
Thefe  being  cut,  or  falling  down,  hindered  the  water  from 
getting  off  the  ground  where  they  lay.  This  encouraged  the 
mofs  plants  to  grow  over  them.  Thefe  plants^  while  rotting 
below,  continue  to  grow  above.  Hence  a  mofs  continually 
increafes  in  depth.   The  pofitioa  of  the*  trees  in  raoft  mofles, 

lirom 

cUy,  the  fprings  tre  left  frequent ;  and  the  rivulets  become  muddy  in  their 
progreft.  But  the  inhabitants  have  adopted  the  method  of  purifying  their 
imer,  by  iBtcYrngftooes,  which  readers  tt  as  good  as  911710  ihevorid* 


qfKilbarcban.  485 

from  Sottth-w€ft}  to  North-eaft|  inftead  of  being  an  objeo- 
tion,  confirms  this  hypothefis  ;  for  all  our  trees  are  bent  in 
this  direfiion,  by  the  prevailing  current  of  our  winds*  A 
tree,  whether  cut  down  or  decaying,  naturally  falls  in  the 
dircftion  to  which  it  leaned  while  growing.  The  P.oman8 
produced  many  mofles  by  cutting  down  the  woods^  to  which 
our  anceftors  fled, for  (helter.  Others  have  dpubtlefs  been 
produced  from  woods  allowed  to  fall  through  decay. 

From  what  has  been  obferved  of  the  quick  growth  of  mofs^ 
It  fliould  feem  that  this  one  is  not  very  ancient.  What  con- 
firms this  opinion  is,  that  many  places  round  this,  and  other 
mofles  in  thii>  country,  ftill  retain  the  name  of  wW«  As 
Fuiwood,  Linwood,  Birchenhead,  Woodhead,  Woodfide, 
Oak-Shaw-head,  fjbaw  is  wood)  Walkinfhaw^  &c. 

Advancing  weftward  from  this  flat  and  level  part  of  the 
parifliy  where  the  foil  is  of  a  deep  ftifF  clay,  tlie  furface  be- 
comes diverfified  with  gentle  rifings.  The  foil  here  confifls 
of  a  more  friable  and  loamy  clay,  intermixed  with  ftones. 
Two  thirds  of  the  parilh  weftward  is  of  a  light  and  (hallow 
ibil,  compofcd  of  the  mouldered  particles  of  whin  rocks,  on 
which  it  refl:8.  This  foil,  where  of.  fuflUcient  depth,  is  ex- 
tremely fertile.  As  you  advance  weftward,  the  ground  be- 
comes more'and  more  rocky^  with  patches  of  the.  fame  light 
{hallow  foil,  interpofed  between  the  rocks.  Among  the  rocks 
are  fereral  fwamps,  which  pr<^er  draining  would  reduce  to  an 
excellent  fofl.  In  thefc  higher  parts,  there  is  very  little  heathj 
and,  with  a  little  lime,  thefe  fliallow  foils  produce  grafs  and 
corn  of  an  excellent  quality. 

The  rocks  here  arc  wholly  compofed  of  whin.  Many  of 
them  have  a  bafaltic  appearance-  The  north  fide  of  the  Bar- 
hill  is  a  bafahic  perpendicular  rock  ;  though  not  very  regular 
in  its  formation,    AU  the  low  part  of  the  parifli  abounds  in 

e^Lcellen^ 


4^6  Statijlical  Account 

excellent  frcc-ftonc,  and  the  north- weft  with  Ofmond  llonc, 
in  great  requeft  iot  ovens  *. 

AntiquUies. 

*  Mr  Napier  of  Blackftone  has  planted  about  15  acres  of  mofi»  bent,  that 
«,  the  ftufT-lcCc  after  the  peat  is  taken  off,  with  trees  of  all  kinds.  They  ha?e 
been  planted  about  t;  years,  and  are  in  a  thriving  condition,  tlthoogh  flow- 
ing upon  4  feet  of  mofs. 

In  the  year  1767,  James  Milliken  of  MilUken,  Efq;  planted  a  number  of 
fir,  with  a  miiture  of  other  trees,  on  the  Bar>brae,  among  trenaeodoi|s  and 
precipitous  rocks,  which  he  had  cndofcd  for  thatpurpoTc.  He  made  a  fiiM 
foot'paiTage  from  his  houfe,  around  the  bottom  of  the  rockai,  among  the  brok- 
en fragmcnu  of  balalcs,  formerly  irapailiLble.  It  is  amating  to  fc^  the  pro- 
^refs  the  diffcrrer^  kinds  of  fir  have  made  among  tliefe  rugged  rock^  Ho«r> 
evtr,  \  find  the  pines  answer  bed  on  a  rocky  foil,  as  their  fibres  find  cr«rvices 
in  which  they  fccuiely  fix  themfelves,  and  dften  form  a  kind  t>f  net-work  a- 
round  the  ftones.  Here  they  are  better  fetured  againft  the  yioleace  of  the 
winds,  and  fuffer  \th  from  the  funmicr's  drouglit,  than  when  they  are  plant- 
cd  in  a  light  gravelly  foil.  In  this  laft  fituation,  their  horizontal  fibres  at 
have  but  little  hold  of  ^e  oarth,  and  their  perpendicular  roou  are  ifi  fmaU 
that  they  are  eafily  fhaken  with  the  wind.  If  they  be  planted  where  there 
ii  a  clay  bottom,  the  damp  of  it  chills  them.  Upon  this  eftate  of  MiOikeo* 
there  are  about  80  acres  of  thriving  planting. 

'  At  Craigcnds,  the  property  of  Mr  Cunningham,  there  arc  30  aaei  of 
planting,  in  which  are  foucid  £bme  very  ftately  old  aih,  elm,  and  plane  treei, 
fuperior  to  any  in  the  parifh.  One  alh,  in  particular,  defcrves  attention.  It 
mcafures  5  feet  in  diameter  at  18  inches  above  the  ground.  The  trunk,  which 
is  perfedly  ftraight,  lifcs  45  feet  without  a  branchy  and  its  top  is  io  propor- 
tion to  the  whole. 

I3r  Colquhoun  purchaftd  in  1787,  upon  the  higher  grounds*  north  weft«f 
the  parifli,  369  acres,  on  which  there  was  then  no  planting.  In  1789  and 
1790,  he  planted  about  16  acres  with  all  kinds  of  trees,  in  large  dumps.  H*: 
thought  this  fuiUciem  for  an  experiment;  but  as  the  plantations  are  thriviog 
keyond  his  mod  fanguine  expedacion,  he  does  not  mean  €0  (lop. 

This  feafon,  1 794,  Mr  M^Dowal  of  Walkingfliavr  is  employed  pbotxag 
trees  of  every  kind  on  £omc  rocky  fpots  on  the  north- weft  of  the  parifii.  b* 
deed  it  were  to  be  wiibed  the  ieveral  proprietors  wonld  plant  off  all  the  ndty 
^ots  in  the  high  and  wedern  parts  of  the  pariih.  The  experiments  already 
made,  Ihew  that  the  planting  would  thrive.  The  intennediate  fpots,  which 
admit  the  pbugh,  fhould  be  kept  as  much  19  paflure  as  polfible :  for  the  (oil 

beiiig 


^f  Kiibar^ban.  ^         487 

Antiqukies  — About  a  miles  weft  ©f  the  village,  on  an 
derated  plain,  ia  fituated  a  huge  (lone,  called  Clocho* 
drxck.  This  name  is  fuppofed  to  be  a  corruption  of  the 
words  Cioch  0  Druids^  the  ftone  of  the  Druids.  It  conCfts  of 
the  fame  fpecies  of  whinftone  of  which  the  neighbouring 
hills  are  compofed.  This  (tone  is  about  aa  feet  long,  17 
feet  broad,  and  12  feet  high.  It  is  of  a  rude  oval  figure^ 
extending  Eaft  and  Weft ;  but  feveral  fragments  have  been 
broken  off,  either  from  defign,  or  by  the  injuries  of  the  wea- 
ther, tt  feems  to  reft  in  a  narrow  bafe  below,  and  perhaps* 
like  other  druidical  ftones,  was  capable  of  being  moved  ;  but 
the  lower  part  is  now  filled  up  with  ftones  gathered  from 
the  land,  over  which  the  grafs  is  growing.  From  the  weft- 
em  fide,  there  is  a  gradual  afcent  to  the  eaft,  which  is  the 
higheft  part.  At  fome  diftance  round,  are  feen  a  few  large 
grey  ftones  \  but  whether  they  once  made  a  part  of  a  fa« 
cred  inclofurc,  or  are  merely  accidental,  cannot  now  be  af- 
certained,  as  the  land  where  they  ly  is  in  tillage  ;  and  it  is 
probable,  the  moft  moveable  of  them  have  been  carried  off. 
A  fmall  rivulet  runs  to  the  weftward  of  the  ftone.  There 
are  no  remains  of  a  facred  grove,  except  a  folitary  tree. 

It  appears,  that  this  ftone  has  been  hewn  from  an  elevated 
rock,  a  little  to  the  Eaft,  on  which  ftands  a  farm  houfe,  call* 
cd   alfo,  Clochodrick  \   but,    by    what  mechanifm  it  was 

brought 

bejng  rery  light,  too  much  ploughiog  makes  it  hove.  Were  it  once  weU 
fwarded,  it  were  better  to  lop-drefs  the  grafs,  and  keep  it  in  pafture  as  long 
as  it  remains  good. 

In  the  Touthem  part  of  the  parilh,  the  property  of  Mr  M*Dowal  of  Oarth- 
Umd,  there  are  40  acres  of  wood  without,  and  13  acrei  within  this  policy. 
But  a$  this  gentleman**  ezteniive  pUntattona  aie  partly  in  the  pariih  of  Loch- 
waanoch,  and  partly  in  this  pariih,  an  account  of  them  was  given  alusg  with 
the  particulars  lelatire  to  Lochwinnoch,  wherein  his  houfe  is  fituated. 

There  are  feveral  beautiful  and  thriving  plantations,  to  the  Weft  and 
North  Weft  of  the  village,  belonging  to  the  Mcffrs  Barbouis,  and  Co  Mr 
3pierf,  whick  we  had  accaiioa  to  racadon  already. 


4^3  Statiftkal  AccouM 

bftHi^t  to  its  prcfent  firuation^  exceeds  our  poisp'ers  to  deter* 
mine. 

All  rude  flat lofls  feem  to  have  mad«  ufe  of  fome  external 
ob|eQs/a$  incentires  to  their  devotion.  This  prafticc  was 
not  peculiar  to  any.  fe£t  of  religion^  but  to  z  particular  pe- 
riod of  civilisation  and  manners.  A  huge  (lone,  detached 
fvom  all  others^  was  a  confpicuous  objeA,  round  which  the 
peopk  could'  aflemble ;  and  where  thejr  could  fee  what  was 
going -on,  while  the  priefts  ofleved  fattificci  or  performed 
their  facred  rites. 

They  wcre.earefal,  alfo,  to  chooftf  fach  fituations  as  might 
either  deprefs  the  mind  with  gloom  and  melancholyi  or  ele- 
vate by  the  magnificent  fcenery  of  nature.  For  this  laft 
jjurpofe,  the  ftone  we  l^eak  of  is  wiali  fituatcd ;  fot  it  com- 
mand's a  moft  magnificent  profped,  eaftward  of  the  vale  of 
Clyde,  below,  and  wcftward  of  the  lakes  of  Lochwinnoch 
and  Eilbumie ;  while  the  bare  rocks  behind  add  to  the  gran- 
deur of  thcr  fccne** 

*  North  from  Clochodrick,  on  the  other  fide  of  the  hills,  ftanda  an  old 
Btrrow  caftle,  amciently  the  refidetice  of  thd  Knoiea.  About  120  yards  South 
Baft  of  this  caftle,  on  ait  elevated  rock,  vrhich  overtops  the  caftle,  is  a  green 
hill,  ail  of  forced  earth.  Ic  is  now  named  Ca/lle-biA  The  afcent  from  the 
South  and  Eaft,  is  gradual ;  from  the  North  and  Weft,  it  is  fteep  and  diffi- 
cult. This  earthen  hill  is  of  a  quadrangular  form ;  the  fides  fiicing  the  four 
cardinal  points.  A  trench,  dug  out  of  the  folid  rock,  furronnds  its  hafe,  on 
the  £aft  and  partTof  the  Nonh  and  South  fides.  The  Weft  fide,  fromting  the 
old  caftle,  refts  on  the  edge  of  the  fteep  rock.  Each  fide  of  this  hill  or  mound^ 
is  about  30  yartls  at  the  bottom,  a»d  19  at  the  top.  h  is  7  yards  in  height* 
The  top,  though  in  fome  parts  defaced,  feems  to  be  a  hollow  fquare,  with  a 
paraper  all  round  it.  There  has  been  an  entrance  into  it  on  the  Eafterm 
fide. 

From  this  mount  are  fcen  five  other  artificial  mounds,  three  in  Koufton 
and  Killallan,  and  two  in  Ktlmacolm,  called  Law*  ;  owing,  it  is  thought  by 
the  people  here,  to  their  havmg  been  places  where  juftice  was  adminiftervd. 

But  moft  of  thefe  Laws  are  of  a  cooical  figure  s  aad  chough,  ia  feudiJ 

timeii 


of  Kilbarcban. 


497 


five  tcnantSi  and  five  houfeholders*  To  thefe  the  kirk  feflion 
are  added.  The  poor  are  fubdivided  into  clafies,  each  claf$ 
being  under  the  infpeAioo  of  an  orerfeer.  None  can  be  re- 
ceived upon  the  poor's  lift,  unlefs  they  make  a  difpofition  of 
their  efie£ts,  to  be  fold  after  their  deceafe»  for  the  benefit  of 
the  poor  :  Any  two  overfeers  can  draw  upon  the  treafurer,  for 
occafional  reliefy  either  to  thofe  upon  the  lift,  when  uhfor- 
feen  diftrefib$  come  upon  theoif  or  to  thofe  who  are  not  upoa 
the  lift ;  but  whofe  fituation  may  require  a  temporary  relief. 

List  of  Marriages  and  Baptisms. 


Marriages. 

Baptifms  J, 

I78I 

2} 

4? 

81 

18 

57 

83     . 

2J 

60 

84 

34 

7» 

«5        . 

17 

86 

86 

.26.. 

5K 

87 

24           .         '. 

4; 

88 

.          27 

34  ' 

89        . 

io 

3* 

90        , 

34 

^7 

Deaths, — The  account  of  deaths  has  not  been  accurately 
kept  i  only  I  noticed,  that  in  the  year  r/po,  they  were  82 ; 
but  1  dare  fay,  more  than  one  third  of  tliein  came  from  the 
towns  of  Johnfton  and  Quarrelton. 

JgrlcuUure. — In  giving  an  account  of  the  agriculture  of 
this  parifti,  we  muft  diftingulfh  between  the  higli  and  rocky 
divifion,  and  the  low  and  level  pnrt,  as  in  each  of  tliefe  the 
praflice  differs  in  fevcral  particulars. 

Vol.  XV.  3  S  .  Eapm 

§  Since  the  year  1786,  when  the  Relief  Meeting  took  place,  the  baptifmi 
hare  decreafed,  as  very  few  of  that  fociety,  or  of  the  burghcis,  regider  their 
children.  But  from  the  proportion  of  baptifms  to  marriages,  I  think  their 
fliouU  be,  at  an  avemge,  between  90  and  100  births  yearly. 


49  8  Statistical  jlccount 

Eajlern  Divificn  F^/ir^/.— The  Eaftern,  or  low  part  of  the 
pariihy  is  moftly  enclofed,  in  fome  placesi  with  (tone  dykesy 
but  chiefly  with  hedge  and  ditch.  The  thorns  are  either 
planted  in  the  face  of  the  eaTth>  thrown  from  the  ditch,  or 
on  the  top.  Another  prafiiice  prevails  here»  of  building  a 
parapet  of  (lone,  about  three  or  four  feet  high,  on  the  edge 
of  their  ditch,  and  then  they  either  plant  the  thorns  perpen- 
dicular on  the  top,  or  ftick  them  in  the  face  of  their  wall, 
drawing  the  beft  of  the  earth  to  the  roots.  The  laft  metho<i 
anfvrers  very  well,  and  the  hedge  requires  no  pailing,  or 
weeding.  |Thefe  fences  are  either  put  up  by  the  tenants, 
who  have  acquired  new  leafes,  or  by  the  landlords,  when 
they  fet  the  farms.  It  were  to  be  wi(hed,  they  were  at  great- 
er pains  to  clean  the  ditches,  and  take  oflF  water  from  the 
roots  of  the  thorns  -,  and  that  fportfmen,  and  others,  who  go 
through  the  fields,  would  take  the  trouble  of  going  round  by 
a  gate,  and  not  crofs  a  hedge,  as  trefpafles  of  this  kind  have 
produced  many  infufficient  fences,  after  years  of  care  be- 
llowed upon  tiiem. 

Farms, — The  medium  fize  of  farms  here  is  from  40  to 
60  acres.     There  is  one  farm,  occupied  by  Mr  Roger,  of 
I    222  acres,  all  in  excellent  order. 

Rent. — Some  fpots  are  rented  at  from  50  to  60  s. ;  but 
tho  medium  rent  is  from  25  to  30  s.  per  acre  It  is  thought, 
by  perfons  of  experience,  that  were  the  lands  out  of  leafe, 
they  could  bear  an  addition  of  5  s.  at  an  average. 

About  50  years  ago,  the  ufual  rent  of  good  land  was  a- 
bout  5  s.  per  acre.  30  years  ago,  it  rofe  to  about  10  s.  ~  33 
years  ago,  it  rofe  to  about'  20  s.  Yet  the  tenants  are  more 
wealthy,  and  live  much  more  comfortably  now,  than  at  any 
{•rmer  period.     Thcfe  fadts  (hew,  that  the  jife  of  rent  has 

uniformly 


9f  Kitbarcban.  499^ 

uniformly  kept  pace  with  the  progrefs  of  manufaAures  and 
population.  Indeed  land  is  of  no  value,  without  inhabitants 
to  cultivatet  and  confume  the  fruits  of  it. 

Hotation.'^ifif  oats ;  2d,  oats  i  ^d,  potatoes,  or  barley,  with 
dung.  If  barley,  laid  down  with  grafs  feeds.  After  pota- 
toes, gcncraiiy  oats,  with  grafs  feeds,  or  2  crops  of  hay,  paf- 
tured  3  or  4  years.  About  one«third  of  the  farm  in  crop, 
two-thirds  pafture  and  hay. 

It  was  formerly  ufual  to  interpofe  a  crop  of  beans  between 
the  two  firft  crops  of  oats,  but  the  feafons  have  been  fo  wet 
of  Jate  years,  that  they  could  not  get  them  fown  early  enough 
in  fpring,  or  dried  in  autumn.  From  this  circumftance,  the 
practice  has  been  generally  abandoned.  Some  farmers  have 
tried  wheat ;  but  after  their  ground  was  prepared,  the  cxcef- 
five  autumnal  rains  have  either  prevented  them  from  fowing 
it,  or  they  were  obliged  to  fow  it  at  a  bad  time,  and  it  did 
not  thrive. 

It  were  much  to  be  wifti^d,  that  the  proprietors  of  lartd 
would  endeavour  to  introduce  a  more  commodious  fyftem  of 
cropping.  Where  the  farmers  depend  chiefly  upon  one  kind 
of  crop,  their  labotir  comes  upon  them  all  in  a  hurry^  and 
Xhtj  are  obliged  to  keep  more  horfes  and  fervants,  than  if 
>heir  work  were  divided  by  a  regular  fucceffion  of  objedts. 

I  am  apt  to  think,  that  the  great  population  centered  here 
by  cotton  mills,  8cc,  points  out  the  dairy,  and  fattening  for 
the  butcher,  as  proper  objc£ls  of  cultivation.  Were  farmers 
to  manage  fo  as  to  have  a  proportion  of  cows  to  calve  bcforf 
winter  5  or,  in  place  of  them,  allot  a  few  cattle  for  winter 
feeding,  they  might  prepare  for  them  a  proportion  of  cabba- 
ges, carrots,  turnips,  and  winter  vetches  5  and,  for  houfe  feed- 
ing in  fummer,  a  patch  of  red  clover  fown  with  barley,  to  b^ 
cut  green,  and  given  to  the  milch  cows.     Thefe  crops  would 

3  S  2  aoiQ 


500  Statyiicai  Account 

come  in  regular  fucccfiion,  and  not  overburden  tbem  with 
labour  at  any  particular  period.  By  feeding  much  in  the 
houfcj  great  quantities  of  dung  would  be  produced.  Though 
potatoes  grow  here  in  perfcftion,  and  anfwer  well  for  thefc 
purpofeS)  they  never  think  of  giving  them  to  cattk,  as  they 
have  a  ready  market  at  hand  for  all  diey  can  produce.  In 
wet  feafons  they  might  plough  in  wheat  and  beans,  with  a 
light  horfci  yoked  in  a  drill  plough,  when  harrows  could  not 
be  ufed. 

Potatoes, — On  fome  fpots  round  the  mofs  formerly  de- 
fcribedy  they  raife  excellent  potatoes  in  narrow  lazy  beds. 
They  cover  the  fets  with  about  eight  or  ten  inches  of  mofs, 
dug  from  the  trench  early  in  tlic  feafon.  When  drought 
coipes  on,  they  ^t  fire  to  the  lazy  beds,  and  ttie  afties  ferve 
as  manure.  In  other  places,  the  potatoes  are  generally  plant* 
cd  and  drefled  by  the  plough  in  drills. 

Manures, — Their  dung,  accumulated  in  winter,  generally 
goes  to  potatoes,  or  barley.  They  lime  upon  ley,  at  the  rate 
of  3  chalders  per  acre,  valued  at  los  each  chalder,  and  imme- 
diately plough  It  in.  I  (hould  think  it  much  better  to  lime 
upon  the  hay  ftubble,  before  they  turned  the  ground  into 
pafture.  This  would  yield  more  than  the  value  of  the  lime 
in  padure,  and  a  greater  crop  when  the  lime  was  broken  up. 
Some  make  compofts  of  earth  and  dung;  others  make  them  by 
frequently  ploughing  a  high  head-rig  in  Summer,  into  which 
they  put  lime,  and  afterwards  lay  it  on  the  fields  Adjoin- 
ing to  the  mofs,  they  make  compofts  of  rtiofs,  dung  and  lime, 
which  are  found  to  be  very  beneficial  for  their  ftrong  clay  foil. 

Horfes  and  Ploughing.-^Tht  horfes  here  are  of  an  excellent 
Vrced,  both  for  ftrength  and  mettle^    They  are  moftly  pw^ 

chaf«4 


6f  Kiibarcban.  501 

cHafed  in  die  lanarkihire  markets,  but  a  few  of  tliem  are 
reared  in  the  pariQi.  They  generally  plough  with  three  hot* 
ksf  fomettmes  with  two>  but  always  ufe  a  driver.  The 
land  is  moftiy  formed  into  ftraight  narrow  ridges. 

Caws  and  Dairy. — The  cows  mod  efteemed  here,  are  thofc 
of  a  fmall  mouth,  head  and  neck  long  and  fmall.  With 
re{jpe£l  to  colour,  thofe  fpotted  brown  and  white  are  prefer* 
red.  In  the  bed  Teafon,  they  give  from  8  to  10  pints  of  milk 
daily,  when  well  fed.  Milch  cows  are  fuppofed  to  produce 
from  5I.  to  81.  yearly.  Sweet  milk  fells  at  2d,,  per  Scots 
pint ;  (kimmed  milk  at  i  penny ;  butter  milk  at  \d.  When 
near  a  market,  they  generally  make  the  whole  milk/into  but- 
ter, and  fell  the  butter,  with  the  butter  milk,  in  a  freih  (late. 
When  diftant,  they  make  fweet  milk  cheefe  or  flcimmed 
cheefe,  and  fait  die  butter  for  winter  fale.  But,  where 
markets  are  diftant,  grazing  for  the  butcher  ts  efteemed  more 
profitable  than  a  dairy. 

Wejiern  Divifiom — In  the  high  and  rocky  parts  of  the  pariih, 
we  fhall  only  note  the  prance  where  it  differs  from  thg 
lower  parts. 

They  lay  dung  or  lime  upon  their  ley  grounds  about  Mar- 
tinmas,  and  plough  it  in  fpring.  They  take  three  or  four 
crops  of  oats  in  fucceflion,  and  then  let  the  ground  run  back 
into  natural  pafture.  They  fow  little  or  no  grafs.  Now 
this  is  the  very  worft  of  praftices,  Pafture  is  the  very  beft 
ufe  to  which  they  can  turn  their  lands ;  yet  they  take  care 
to  exhauft  them  before  they  throw  them  into  pafture.  It 
were  better  to  top-drefs  for  the  pafture,  and  fow  it  down 
with  grafs.  I  fuppofe,  the  reafon  why  they  don't  fow  grafs, 
is,  that  the  ftones  hinder  them  from  cutting  the  hay.  But, 
were  they  to  fow  down  their  fields  with  grafs  ^  a  very  rich 

ftale^ 


502  Statijlical  Account 

ftatc,  one  gathering  of  the  ftoncs  would  fervc  for  many  years. 
Even  if  it  were  thought  too  laborious  to  gather  all  the  ftoncs 
fhey  might  admit  cattle  to  pafture  in  the  dry  feafon,  as  foon 
as  the  grafs  was  fufficiently  rooted.  The  ground  commonly- 
lies  4  or  5  years  in  pafture.  Potatoes  are  fometimes  planted 
in  lazy  beds,  on  fpots  here  and  there  among  the  rocks ;  fome- 
times with  the  plough  ;  after  potatoes^  fometimes  birlcy, 
fometknes  oats.  There  are  many  fields  well  adapted  for 
turnips,  which  have  never  been  tried-  The  lands  are  moftly 
mclofed  with  rickle  ftone  dykes,  •  gathered  from  the  llind. 
The  rent  cannot  be  cftimated  by  acreS|  as  the  land  lies  is( 
patches  among  the  rocks* 

Cowsn — ^The  COWS  in  greatcft  eftecm  here,  are  a  light,  ac- 
tive breed,  yield  about  fix  pints  of  milk  daily,  in  the  bcft  fea- 
HorVky  and  produce  from  ^1.  los.  to  31.  per  annum.  The 
farmers  depend  chiefly  upon  rearing  of  cattle,  butter,  which 
they  fait,  and  (kimmed  cheefe.  They  alfo  rear  a  few  horfe^ 
«f  the  Lanarkftiire  breed. 

There  are  few  or  no  hogs  in  the  parifti,  and  few  (heep, 
except  what  are  kept  by  gentlemen  for  their  own  ufe.  Some 
patches  of  lint  are  occafionally  fown;  but  chiefly  for  the 
prhrate  ufe  of  the  farmers. 

Mills  and  Tkirlage. — There  is,  in  the  parifti,  a  lint  mill  of 
mn  excellent  conftru£lion,  and  beft  frequented  of  any  in  the 
Weft  of  Scotland.  There  are  alfo  four  corn  mills,  each 
of  which  had  thirlages  annexed  to  them.  But  this  barba- 
rous pradlice  is  wholly  aboliflied  at  one,  and  mitigated  at  a- 
nother.  At  the  mill  of  Cart,  the  thirlage  was  bought  up  by 
the  feveral  proprietors  bound  in  thirlage,  and  the  intereft  of 
llie  purchafe  money  charged  upon  the  tenants,  at  the  rate  of 
4W  per  acre-    Yet,  what  is  furprifing,  the  mill  fct  for  iiearly 

tlie 


iff  Kilharchan  505  • 

the  former  rent.  Johnfton  mill,  the  property  of  the  MilHken 
family^  has  the  eftate  bound  in  thirlage ;  but,  at  renewing 
the  leafes,  the  thirlage  was  rendered  more  moderate.  At 
the  others  mills,  the  thirlage  varies  from  the  lath  to  the 
30th  peck.  At  all,  they  mud  pay,  even  if  they  (hould  fell 
their  oats  unground.  All  grain  but  oats  is  free.  It  is  ta 
be  hoped  that  this  barbarous  Gothic  praftice,  which  produces 
on  the  one  hand,  conftant  complaints  bf  evafion,  on  the  other, 
of  flovenly  execution,  will  be  wholly  extirpated  from  Scotland* 

ManuJaEluret* — ^The  Meflrs  Barbours  firft  eftaWilhcd  x 
candle  manufadory  in  Kilbarchan,  which  acquired  great  ce- 
lebrity :  afterwards,  a  manufactory  of  linens  was  attempted 
by  them  in  the  year  1 739.  In  the  year  1 742,  Mr  Spiers  and 
others  introduced  the  manufadlurc  of  lawns,  cambrics,  &c. 
for  the  Dublin  market,  which  branch  ftill  continues^ 
with  different  variations  in  the  quantity  produced.  Whea 
the  Paifley  filks  came  into  vogue,  a  confiderable  proportion 
was  wrought  up  here.  Afterwards,  the  cotton  manufactory 
almoil  fuperfeded  every  other.  In  tlie  year  1774,  Semple,  in 
his  Hiftory  of  Renfrewfhire,  reckoning  every  weaver  of  linen 
to  produce  65I.  per  annum,  calculated  the  manufactures  car- 
ried on  by  perfons  refiding  in  Kilbarchan,  at  23,4001.  per 
annum.  If  we  reckon  the  cottons  and  other  ilufFs  at  the 
fame  rate,  in  the  year  1791,  the  value  manufaftured  in  the 
parifh  of  Kilbarchan,  would  be  27, 1 05I.  This  is  not  all  done 
by  people  refiding  here,  but  a  confiderab]^  quantity^of  muflins 
are  fent  from  Paifley  to  be  weaved.  This  year,  1794,  all 
branches  of  bufinefs  are  in  a  very  languid  Rate.  The  only 
branch  that  ftill  docs  a  little,  is  the  lawn,  but  even  this  is 
very  dull,  and  the  people  feem  much  difpirltcd. 

There  are  in  the  village,  3  blcachfi^lds,  which  employ  30 
hands,  moftly  women.  There  are  alfo  2  candleworks,  and 
a  brewery. 

C»U9n 


504  Statijlical  Account 

Cotton  Miils. — At  the  bridge  of  Weir,  on  the  north  weft  of 
the  pari(hy  there  is  a  cotton  mill,  which  contains  2120  fptn* 
ditfs  ready  for  ufe,  and  might  employ  70  hands  if  fully  occii- 
pied.  At  prefent,  from  the  dullnefs  of  trade,  they  only  work 
with  1664  fpindles,  and  employ  49  hands,  chiefly  women 
and  children. 

But  the  moft  fplendid  eftablifliment  in  the  cotton  fpinning 
hufinefs,  perhape  in  Britain,  is  the  Linwood  mill,  on  the 
fouth  eaft  part  of  this  parifh.  The  building  is  already  finifli^ 
ed,  except  one  wing,  which  yet  remains  to  be  added.  The 
length  of  building  already  compleated,  is  254  feet  \  the  length 
when  finiihed,  will  be  338  feet  8  inches  5  the  breadth  of  the 
body  is  37  feet ;  ditto,  of  wings  40  feet.  The  houfe  is  fix 
ftorcys  with  garrets.  It  already  contains  400  glafs  windows, 
and,  when  copipleated,  will  contain  540.  The  depth  of  fall 
IS  17  feet.  The  tide  makes  up  to  the  tail  of  the  wheel ;  but 
when  interrupted  by  tail  water,  they  have  another  wheel, 
more  elevated,  which  they  can  put  in  motion. 

Mr  Dunlop,  the  manager,  has  paid  a  very  laudable  atten- 
tion to  the  health  of  the  inhabitants,  in  the  conftruftion  of 
this  building.  For  this  purpofe,  the  roofs  of  the  rooms  arc 
high  ;  the  machinery  is  much  firaplified  in  its  con(lru£lion, 
can  be  eafily  cleaned,  and  occafions  little  or  no  wafte,  or  par- 
ticle of  cotton  to  fly  about,  and  a  large  fpace  is  allowed,  in 
proportion  to  the  machinery;  of  confequence  fewer  work- 
ers will  be  crowded  into  the  fame  fpace.  The  whole  appa- 
ratus does  not  take  afeovc  three  half  gills  of  oil  daily :  hence 
no  badfmell  arifes  from  the  oil.  Add  to  all,  that  the  whole 
building  is  fubdivided  by  two  vaft  (lair-cafes,  which  adl  as 
ventilators.  If  equal  attention  is  paid  to  the  inftruftion  of 
the  children,  I  fiiould  confider  a  work  of  this  fort  as  a  fchool, 

where  the  children  of  the  poor,  othcrwife  a  burden  upon 
I  their 


vf  Kilbarcbatu  505 

their  parents,  may  be  trained  to  induftry  and  ?tf  tue« 

Nomber  of  fpindles  wotUog  at  prefinity  •  •  6oq 

Nnmber  when  the  prefent  building  it  funiilhed,        •  l8,ooo 

Number  when  the  whole  plan  is  compleated,  •  25,000 

Mamber  of  hands  at  prefent  employed,  .  .  75 

Number  (befidea  tradelmen)  that  will  be  required  to  occupy 
whole,  .       ,  •  .  z,8oo 

A  regular  town,  up6n  an  elegant  plan,  ^is  already  begun, 
adjoinbg  to  the-works,  and  there  are  houfes  biiilt,  fufficient 
to  accommodate  400  worker^.  But  the  late  deplorable  de- 
cay of  trade,  has  thrown  a  damp  upon  this,  and  every  other 
fcheme  of  manufafture ;  and  they  are  proceeding ,  as  flowly 
as  poilible,  in  furnilhing  this  extenfive  building. 


3T  NUMBER 


5^6  Swi/licai  Recount 

NUMBER.   XXIV. 
PARISH  OF  KIRKMICHAEL, 

t 

(Presbytery  of  Dunkeld,  County  of  Perth,  Sync* 
oy  Perth  and  Stirling.) 

By  the  Rev.  Mr.  Allan  SrEWARt. 


Name  and  Situation. 


HIS  parilli  AmrtM  tti  name,  like  feme  ethers  in  Scotland, 
from  the  church  having  been  dedicated  to  St  Michael*  It  is 
bounded  by  the  parifhes  of  Logierait  and  MouKne  pn  the 
Weft ;  of  Braemar  and  Crathy  on  the  North  ;  of  Glenifla 
and  Alyth  on  the  Eaft ;  and  of  Blairgowrie,  Einloch,  Cluny, 
and  Caputh,  on  the  South.  It  comprehends  the  greater  part 
of  Stratbardle,  die  whole  of  Gle|»(hee»  and  a  diftrid  lying  at 
the  lower  extremity  of  that  glen,  on  the  Weft  fide  of  the  ri- 
river,  called  Black- water,  which  gives  name  to  the  county 
through  which  it  pafles.  Strathardle  is  about  lo  miles  long, 
and  from  i  to  2  miles  broad,  and  includes  part  of  the  parifhes 
^f  Mouline,  Sarkmichaelj  Blairgowrie,  Bendochy  and  Kinloch, 

.  •  Glehfflice 


of  Ktrkmichaeh  ^  cJ7 

dcnfhcc  Js  about  7  miles  long,  and  Icfs  than  a  mile  Broad; 
At  the  head  of  this  glen  are  two  fmallcr  ones,  narrow,  and  a- 
boat  3  miles  long.  The  diftridl  bordering  on  the  Black-wa^ 
ter,  is  of  a  form  nearly  circular,  meafuring  fomewhat  more 
than  2  miles  in  diameter.  Though  this  parifli  is  pretty  ex^ 
tenfive,  there  ift  no  part  of  it  detache]fl«'  Tts  figure  does  not 
▼ary  much  from  a  parallelogram,  being  1 7  miles  long  from 
North  to  South  ;  and  from  6  to  7  miles  broad. 

£iym4agies. — According  to  traditioh,  Strathardle  was  an^ 
ciently  called  in  Gaelic,  Srach  na  muice  brice ;  tie  Jlrath  of 
thejpotted  vnldfonu ;  which  name  it  is  faid  to  have '  retained 
till  the  time  of  the  Danilh  invafions,  when,  in  a  battle  fought 
between  the  Dane$  aiid  the  Caledonians,  at  the  head  of  the 
country,  a  chief,  liamed  Ard-f  huil,  htgh^  or  noble  bloody  was 
killed,  whofe  grare  is  (hown  at  this  day*  From  him  the  coun- 
try got  the  name  of  Srath  Ard-f  huil,  Siratbardk^  In  tracing 
the  origin  of  the  mmt  of  Glenfhee,  the  following  conje£hure 
is  odered.  It  appears  to  have  been  the  practice  among  the 
Druids,  to  hold  alEzes  in  the  mod  convenient  part  of  the 
country,  to  decide  differences  and  adminifter  j'uftice*;  The 
perfoils  who  exercifed  this  office  were  called  Sith-dfaaoine,  or 
BnH^Achtm^  peace- makert.  A  round  hill,  at  the  head  of  the 
glen,  called  Sith-dhun,  the  hUl  ofpeace^  may  have  been  one  of 
die  places  for  holding  thefe  courts  of  juftice ;  and  hence  the 
whole  glen  may  have  got  its  name.  Another  conje&ure  is^ 
that  Skhdhun  may  have  been  the  place  of  concluding  and 
Ratifying  a  peace,  between  two  contending  tribes  or  dans* 

////?>,  Lochy  eSTr.— Ahill  at  the  head  of  Glcnlhce,  called 
Beinn-Ghulbhuinn,  is  diilinguifhed  by  having  been  the  fc^ne 

I  8:e  Ccf.  BcU.  OaU^  lib.  I.  cap.  13; 


5  o8  Statifllcal  Account 

df  a  hunting  wkich  proved  fatal  to  IXarmMi  one  of  the  FiiN 
gdian  heroes.  Here  are  (hown  the  Aen  of  the  wild  boar 
that  was  hantedy  a  fpring  called  Tobar  nam  Fiann,  thefcuntM 
tfihe  F'tngallai^f  \  a  (maH  lake,  called  Loch  an  Tuirc,  the  boa/ s 
heh  ;  aUb  Diarmtd's  grave,  where  he  was  buried  b^  his  coni« 
yades*.     The  higheft  hill  in  the  comitrj  b  lilcmnt  Blair, 

which 

*  The  eminence  where  Diarmid  was  buried,  is  called  Tuhch  Diarmid, 
l)tarmid*s  Hill,  whence  the  late  proprietor  of  the  ground  was  callbd,  FearTu- 
laich  Diarmid,  laird  of  Oiarmid's  Hill.    The  ftory  toU  of  Diannid's  death 
is  this  :  DMrmid  and  another  of  the  Fingaliani,  were  rirals  in  lore.    The 
kdy,  who  was  the  objed  of  their  pafl&on,  gavt  'che  preference  to  I>ijDrtt]d. 
The  riTal,  who  wiflicd  for  fome  means  of  taking  Diarmid  aS,  pfvpofed  Co 
the  Fingaliana  to  fet  a  day  for  hunting  a  wild  boar,  which  had  often  annoy- 
ed them,  hoping  that  Biarmid*s  forwardnefs  in  the  chace  would  cxpofe  htm 
to  de(lru6tion.    Diarmid  was  warned  by  his  mifh-cfs,  thst  fome  eril  was  in- 
fended  him  ;  that  the  hunting  was  a  pretext,  and  that  he  ought  to  avoid  it. 
He  gallantly  anfwered,  that  nothing  could  prevail  with  him  to  decline  any 
any  enterprizc  in  which  his  feHows  engaged.    The  hooting  took  place.    The 
boar  was  killed  by  Dlarmid's  fpear,  and  himfelf  efcaped  fafe.    His  rival,  cx- 
preifing  his  afloniihment  at  the  fize  of  the  boar,  propofed  to  Diarmid  to  mea- 
fore  the  length  of  hs  back  with  his  foot,  expedlng  tfait  Diarmid  would  be 
Wouoded  by  the  venomous  brtilles  on  the  boar's  back.    Diamud  neafnrcd 
aloDg  the  back  from  the  head  to  the  uil,  and  ftill  remained  unhurt,    Hisad- 
•  verfary,  difappointed,  rcqacfted  him  to  meafure  the  boar's  back  again,  pro- 
ceeding in  the  contrary  diredion.   Diarmid  fcorned  to  declbe  the  taft.    The 
confequence  was  what  his  rival  wiihed.    The  wounds  he  received  from  the 
boar's  briftles,  proved  mortal. 

Dr  Smith,  author  of  Gaelic  Antiquities,  in  a  note  to  the  Gaelic  edition  of 
the  poem  on  Diarmid*s  death,  mentions  a  traditiofi  that  Diarmid  was  vuloe- 
table  |only  in  the  fole  of  the  foot,  ^nd  fuggefts  that  this  circumftance  is  pro* 
bably  a  6dion  of  late  iorention^  as  he  has  reafon  to  believe  that  thebldcft  aod 
^oreft  editions  of  the  poem,  make  no  mention  of  it.  If  fo,  there  feems  to  be 
a  firiking  fimilarity  between  the  llory  of  Diarmid  and  that  of  Achilles.  The 
circumftance  of  Achiiles  being  vulnerable  only  in  the  he^l,  is  no  where  hlnt- 
•  ed  by  Homer,  and  mnft,  therefore,  as  in  the  ftory  of  Diarmid,  be  the  inven*- 

tioB 


^f  KirkimchaeL  509 

wUch  dWides  tbk  partfti  fiom  Glemfla.  The  only  lochs  of 
iiote>  ate  Loch  SbefiMrnUb^  and  Loch  nan  sun,  fituated  ptettf 
h^k  among  the  hills.  Thefe  abound  in  excellent  trout. 
There  are  ooe  or  two  medicinal  fpring^^  which  are  believed 
to  be  of  an  aatiicorbutic  quality. 

tion  of  feme  later  fabulift.  lo  both  cafea,  the  circvmllaiice  tended  to 
Uffcn  the  reputation  of  ihofe  heroes  for  military  prowefs. 

Dt  Smith  phces  the  fcene  of  Diarmid^s  death  in  a  part  of  the  Weil  Higfe^ 
bndsy  on  the  authority  ot  the  tradition  of  the  country,  and  of  the  names  of 
places  preferved  in  a  beauttfal  Gaelic  poem,  which  narrates  the  ftory  of  Diar^ 
mid's  death.  The  opinion  of  its  having  happened  in  Glenfhee,  refts  predfelf 
on  the  fame  kind  of  evidence;  befides  the  tradition  of  this  country,  there  is  a 
Gaelic  poem  extant,  which  relates  the  fate  of  Diarmid,  with  the  fame  cir- 
cumftances  as  thofe  mentioned  in  the  poem  pobliihed  by  Dr  Smith,  and  wilich 
•xpreisly  afiirnii  the  bnntingto  have  been  in  the  hills  of  Glenfliee.  If  the 
merit  of  the  poetry  were  to  determine  the  degree  of  credit  due  to  the  baid. 
as  anhiftorian,  there  is  no  doubt  that  the  poem  in  Dr  Smith's  coUedioBy 
mud  be  acknowledged  the  moft  authentic.  But  if  this  be  reckoned  an  eqoi* 
vocal  teft  of  anthenticity,  it  does  not  well  appear  how  the  two  difcordant  nar- 
ntiTet  can  be  reconciled,  nor  how  the  credit  due  to  either  of  them  abote  the 
other,  may  be  afceruined.  From  fuch  a  defcrepance  between  the  diiFerene 
accounts  of  the  fame  events,  a  fecptical  enquirer  might  be  led,  perhaps,  to 
quefUon  the  authenticity  of  both,  and  pronounce  the  whole  a  mere  li<Sion. 
Such  an  inference,  however,  may  well  be  judged  raih  and  unfounded.  The 
eftiftence  of  various  traditions,  refj»eAing  the  fame  ftory,  is  a  proof  that  it  wa$ 
•nee  generally  believed  in  many  parts  of  the  country.  Their  agreeing  in 
many  ftriking  particulars,  ifl  at  leaft  a  ilrong  prefumption  that  thefe  partica* 
hrs  were  true ;  their  difagreeing  in  other  particulars,  only  (hows  that  the 
fdi&s  were  obfcured  by  the  diftance  of  time  at  which  they  happened.  Many 
eitiei  claimed  the  honour  of  J^viirg  birth  to  Homer,  and  fupported  their  re-> 
i^e6fcive  claims  by  various  arguments  and  allegations.  Though  their  claims 
were  inconfiftent,  and  their  allegations  contradiAory,  nobody  ever  thooght 
•f  inferring  thence,  that  Homer  never  lived,  or  had  no  birth-place,  but  only 
that  the  place  of  his  birth,  from  the  length  of  time  iince  it  happened,  was  b4K 
come  uncertaim 


5  xo  Smijlicai  AccoMi 

C/twatet  Soilt  Crop, — ^Thc  country  being  more  dcvatdl 
than  Athole,  on  the  ojie  hand»  and  Marr  on  the  other,  and 
1>cing  in  general  open  and  unflieltcrcd,  the  climate  is  colder . 
than  in  either  of  chefe  diftrifbs,  and  more  expofed  Co  the  fe« 
vetity  of  a  cold  or  ftprmy  feaibn.  During  nine  mofitlA  of  the 
yearj  frofts  are  frequent,  and  fometimes  fatal  to  the  fruits  of 
the  earth.  In  1791  and  1792,  the  crops  fufiered  extremely 
from  fevere  f rolls,  in  the  beginning  of  Autumn.  The  air, 
however,  is  pure  and  favourable  to  health  and  longevity.  U 
ia  not  uncommon  to  fee  men  purfuing  their  ordinary  occu- 
pations at  80  or  90  years  of  age.  Within  thLie  few  years,  a 
M'Oman  died  in  the  pariih  upwards  of  100  years  old.  Chro- 
nical diftempers  are  rare.  The  fmall  pot  has  been  often  fa- 
tal. Inoculation,  though  not  unknown,  is  far  from  being  ge- 
rally  pra£Uf/ed. 

The  foil  on  the  banks  of  the  Ardie,  is  thin  amd  dry,  having 
a  fandy  bottomi  and  yields  in  general  iighl  crops.  In  the 
higher  grounds,  it  is  wet  and  fpungy,  unfriendly  to  vegeta- 
tion, except  in  dry  warm  feafons,  when  it  yields  a  pretty  good 
crop.  The  fame  dcfcription  applies  to  the  foil  of  Glenfhee, 
and  of  the  Black- water  diftri&. 

The  produce  of  the  ground  is  ftldom  fufficisnt  to  fupply 
the  inhabitants.  The  culture  of  potatoes  is  of  the  greateft 
utility,  as  it  is  commonl/  the  moft  produ£Uve  uop,  *  The 
kinds  of  grain  generally  fown  are  Cheihire  bear,  the  com- 
mon white  oats,  and  a  kind  called  barley  oats.  Flax,  and 
peafe,  alfo,  are  grown,  but  in  no  great  quantities,  as  the  fo'.l 
or  climate  is  unfavourable  to  them.  Field  turnips  have  been 
lately  introduced,  and  anfwer  well,  of  which  the  tenants  ap- 
pear to  be  fcnfible.  Some  grafs  feeds  have  been  fown ;  but 
as  the  feafon  for  vegetation  is  fliort,  the  farmer  can  feldom 
cut  down  more  than  one  full  grown  crop  of  gtafs.  Sheep 
being  allowed  to  pafture  at  large  in  the  fields 'all  the  time  the 

corns 


of  KirkmicbaeL  511 

corns  are  off  the  ground,  is  a  cxrcumftancc  very  unfavourable 
to  the  culture  of  fpwn  grafs,  which  has  not  as  yet  been  reme- 
died. Oats  are  fown  in  April;  potatoes  are  planted;  lint- 
feed  and  bear,  with  grafs-focds,  fown  in  May ;  turnips  in 
June.  Harveft  feldom  begins  fooner  than  September.  It  is 
commonly  the  middle,  or  about  the  end  of  0£lober,  and 
fometimes  the  middle  of  November,  before  it  is  all  gathered 
in.  The  greater  part  of  the  parifli  is  better  adapted  for  paf- 
turage  than  for  tillage  ;  and  fome  of  the  proprietors  are  accor*, 
dingiy  laying  leveral  of  th::ir  farms  under  (heep. 

Populationj  Rental^  £5*r.-^In  1755,  the  number  of  fouls 
was  rated  at  2689.  The  population  of  the  pari(h  has  decreaf* 
ed  much  within  thefe  20  years,  and  continuing  to  decreafe, 
on  account  of  confiderable  tra£ks  »f  land  being  converted  into 
(heep  f<irm$,  and  the  inhabitants  forced  to  migrate  to  other 
countries.}  The  number  of  fouls  in  the  parifti  is  about  220c. 
The  number  of  males  is  to  that  of  females,  as  44  is  to  50. 

The 


§  Few  more  mterrfting  ob]ed8  can  engage  the  a^enr/on  of  a  humane^ 
patriotic,  and  enlightened  Sutefman,  than  the  queftion,  Whether  the  encreafe 
of  population  in  towns,  be  a  fuU  compenfation  for  its  diminution  in  the  coun- 
ttjs  Is  thtjlreitgih  andfeeurity  of  the  State  augmented  i  U  the  acquifition  V 
more  numbers,  and  of  wealth,  an  equivalent  for  the  depniTation  of  morals, 
and  the  decay  of  public  fpirit  f  U  the/um  •/  hafpitafi  in  the  bodf  of  the 
people  encreafed  ?  Is  a  town  life  as  favourable  as  a  country  life,  to  the  cul* 
ture  of  religious  afiedtioni ,  and  of  the  focial  virtues  ?  If  not,  whether  is  the 
greater  degree  of  happinefs  found  among  a  people  virtuous  and  religious, 
though  wanting  many  texnporal  conveniences  and  accommodations ;  or  amongf 
a  people  left  virtuous  and  religious,  but  poflefled  of  better  accommodations  ? 
If  the  countri  Ihould  be  depopulated,  is  it  eafy  to  re>place  iu  inhabitants : 
pr  is  it  true  that. 

»  A  bold  peafaotry,  their  country's  pride, 

«  When  ooce  deftroycd,  can  nevei:  be  fupplied  ?" 

^  Goldsmith. 


$12  Statijlical  Accoymt 

The  average  of  yearly  biitfas  for  the  laft  8  years,  is  50,  and 
of  marriages  15.  No  regifter  has  b^en  kept  of  the  burials. ' 
Many  who  do  not  refide  in  the  pari(h|  have  their  burial  plac- 
JLs  within  it ;  and  many  who  do,  bury  clfe where.  The  valu- 
ed rent  of  the  paiifli  is  4102I.  138.  4d«  Scots.  The  real  rent 
may  amount  nearly  to  3000I.  Sterling.  The  rent  of  lands 
varies  according  to  the  <}ttality  of  the  ibil  and  the  circumfiaii- 
ces  of  the  farm.  Lands  that  have  the  privilege  of  a  good 
hill  pafture  annexed  to  them,  pay  from  20  to  45  fliillings  Ster* 
ling  of  rent  per  acre  of  arable.  Lands  that  want  this  privi- 
lege, if  not  inclofed,  pay  from  1 2  to  16  (hillings^  acre :  if 
inclofed,  about  20  fhiiiings. 

State  9f  Plr$perij.^^T}Mxt  are  12  proprietors  who  do  not 
f  efidc  in  the  pari(h  ;  24  finaller  proprietors,  moft  of  whom 
refide  tnitconftantly,  and  farm  a  part  of  their  own  property  % 
Itnd  4  other  fmaller  proprietors,  called  portioners,  from  their 
pofleding  but  fmall  ponions  of  land,  which  they  farm  entire- 
ly themfelves«  The  number  of  farmers  in  the  parifli  is  226. 
Of  thefe,  19  are  heritors.  A  plough-gate,  or,  as  it  is  called 
here,  a  plough  of  land,  contains  only  from  7  to  S  acres  of  a- 
rable  land,  excluGve  of  hiH  pafture.  There  are  about  200 
fuch  plough-gates  in  tillage,  and  above  40  wholly  in  paftor* 
age.  About  a  plough-gate  of  cultivated  land  there  are  of- 
ten two  tenants  or  families,  who  poflefs  the  faiU  paftuse  be- 
longing to  the  farm  in  common,  but  have  each  their  refpeco 
tive  (hares  of  the  arable  land,  and  infield  pafture,  diftind. 
The  ploughs  are  generally  drawn  by  four  fmall  horfes  yoked 
a-breaft.  Where  che  ground  is  level  and  tra£Lab]f »  and  the 
farmer  in  eafy  circumftances,  the  plough  is  often  drawn  bf 
three,  or  fometimes  by  two  horfes.  Many  of  the  tenants  fab- 
fet  fmall  portions  of  their  pofleflions^  fuch  as  a  garden,  or 

perhaps 


of  Kirkmicbaeh  513 

perhaps  a  fmall  croft  to  cottagers,  or  cottars,  as  they'are  call- 
ed. Some  of  thefe  are  handy^raftfmcn,  who  fubfift  by  their 
trade ;  others  are  common  labourers,  who  hire  themfelves 
out  for  day's  wages  in  the  country.  The  number  of  tradef- 
men  is  as  follows :  10  fquare  wrights  :  4  wheel  wrights;  j 
fmtths;  4  (hoemakers;  14  ihop-keepers ;  14  taylors;  40 
weavers,  including  apprentices.  Some  of  thefe  hare  Qther 
occupations  befides  their  trade. 

WagesB — ^The  wages  are  regulated  according  to  the  na- 
ture of  the  work,  and  the  time  of  the  year  in  which  it  is  per- 
formed. A  day-labourer,  from  the  beginning  of  March  till 
harveft,  ge^  M.per  day,  befides  vi£tuals  \  a  hay  or  corn-cut- 
ter IS- ;  a  taylor  6d. ;  a  Jint-dreflcr  8d. ;  a  wright  is.  Wo- 
men hired  for  fpinning,  get  2d.  or  3d.,  according  to  their 
merit.  Men  fervants,  engaged  for  a  year,  get  about  61. ; 
and  women  from  2I.  los.  to  31.  Sterling. 

Live  Stock, — Moft  of  the  tenants  depend  on  the  fale  of  cat- 
tle, for  the  payment  of  their  rents.  The  number  of  fheep 
is  about  9000.  More  than  a  third  of  thefe  are  of  the  black 
and  white  faced  kind,  fomewhat  large  in  the  body,  and 
rough  in  the  wool.  The  reft  are  of  the  common  Scotch  kind, 
fmaller  in  Gze  than  the  former,  but  very  hardy.  A  few  of 
the  Cheviot  breed  have  lately  been  introduced.  The  black 
cattle  are  of  the  fmall  Highland  kind.  They  feed  remarka- 
bly well,  and,  when  properly  fed  on  grafs,  they  prove  excel- 
lent beef.  Few  of  them,  when  fed,  exceed  in  weight  20 
ftones  of  beef.  Their  number  is  about  2000.  Few  horfea 
are  kept,  except  what  are  barely  fufficient  for  cultivating  the 
ground.  They  are  computed  at  about  3 00.  There  arc  alfo 
feme  parcels  of  fwine,  and  a  few  goats. 

Vol.  XV.  3U  ^/V/. 


514  Sttitijlical  Account 

Fairs, — There  ate  three  annual  fairs  held  within  the  pa* 
ri(h;  one  at  Ktrkmichael,  called  the  Michaelmas  market, 
and  two  at  the  fpittal  of  Glcnfliee.  The  former  is  of  long 
Handing.  It  probably  took  its  rife  from  the  concourfe  of 
people  who  afTembled  on  the  day  facred  to  St  Michael,  at  a 
place  confecrated  to  his  memory  and  worfliip*  From  com- 
ing togctheri  for  the  purpofes  of  devotion,  they  learned  to 
continue  together^  for  the  fake  of  tranfa£ting  fecular  affairs, 
till,  by  degrees,  this  laft  object  became  the  chief  reafon,  and 
nt  length  the  only  ncafon  of  their  aiTcmbling.  Michaelmas 
came  to  be  a  term  for  fettling  accompts,  and  other  money 
tranfaftions,  over  all  Scotland.  Half  a  century  ago,  this 
fair  was  one  of  the  principal  cattle  markets  in  the  kingdom, 
and  continued  3  or  4  days,  or  rather  a  week  together.  Of 
late  years,  it  has  been  much  Icfs  crowded.  There  is  a  week- 
ly  market  held  at  Kirkmichael  ou  Fridays,  whither  the  peo- 
ple of  the  neighbourhood  repair,  to  fell  what  yarn  they  may 
have  fpuu  during  the  week,  and  to  buy  their  weekly  fupply 
of  tobacco,  fnufF,  lamp  oil,  and  other  groceries.  Shoemakers 
from  Attiolc,  difpofe  of  a  great  many  fliocs  alfo,  at  this  mar- 
ket. It  has  been  remarked,  and  perhaps  with  too  much  rea- 
fon, thiit  tills  market  gives  encouragement  to  idlenefs,  and 
imprudent,  not  to  fay  immoral  indulgences,  by  furnifhing  a 
pretence  for  frequent  vifits  to  the  village.  Appointments 
for  p-ying  triHing  debts,  are  commonly  made  at  this  market. 
Ihc  creditor  and  debtor  meet.  They  adjourn  to  the  public 
houfc.  After  each  has  drunk  his  pot,  the  debtor  finds  he  is 
not  able  to  pay  his  debt.  He  craves  a  week's  delay.  The 
creditor  cafiiy  agrecb  to  fo  fliort  a  term.  The  appointment 
is  renewed,  and  the  fame  fcenc  repeated,  perhaps  many  times, 
before  the  debt  is  paid.  Thus  both  time  and  mGftcy  arc  need- 
lefsly  fpcnt,  and  a  habit  of  idlenefs  and  of  tipling  ccntraQed. 

Fuel, 


of  Kirkmichaet.  515 

Fuili  &c.— The  fuel  generally  ufed  is  peat  and  turf.  Lime 
ftonc  is  plenty,  and  ufed  for  manure  in  different  parts  of  the 
parifti ;  but  lefs  than  would  otherwifc  be  the  cafe,  from  the 
expence  of  procuring  peat  to  bum  it.  No  marie  has  been 
found,  except  lately  in  one  place.  It  is  refervcd  by  the  pro- 
prietor for  his  own  ufc.  There  are  7  licenced  retailers  of 
fpirituous  liquors.     No  licenced  diftillers. 

Roads. — ^The  military  road  from  Coupar- Angus  to  Fort 
George,  pafles  along  the  Black  Water  and  through  Glenihce, 
It  is  kept  in  repair  chiefly  by  the  ftatute  labours  of  the  coun- 
try. A  country  road  along  the  courfc  of  the  Ardle  is  kept 
in  pretty  good  repair,  in  the  fame  manner. 

Eccieftiijiical  State^  Pcor^  &c. — ^The  church  was  built  in ' 
1792.  It  is  finifhed  in  a  refpeftable  ftylc,  and  fufficiently 
large  and  commodious  for  the  diftri£l  of  country  in  which  it 
ftands.  It  coft  about  370!.  Sterling,  exclufive  of  carriage,  of 
lime,  timber,  &c.  In  Glenfhee  is  a  chapel,  where  divine  fer- 
vicc  is  performed  by  the  roinifter  of  the  paiifh,  once  in  foui? 
or  five  weeks.  The  glebe  confifts  of  four  acres  of  arable 
land,  of  indifferent  foil,  and  a  deep  fand  bank  for  pnfture. 
The  ftipehd  is  icoo  merks  Scots,  or  55I.  1  is.  i|d.  Sterling. 
James  Farquharfon  of  Invercauld,  Efq;  is  patron.  The  fund« 
for  fupporting  the  poor,  confift  of  a  capital  of  170I.  Sterling, 
under  the  management  of  the  kirk-feffion,  the  weekly  collec- 
tions made  at  church  and  occafional  fines.  The  annual  a-  1 
mount  of  the  contributions  is  at  an  average  j  i\.  Sterling. 
The  number  of  poor  who  receive  regular  fupplies  from  the 
funds,  is  14-  It  is  to  be  regreted  that  the  funds  are  too  fmali 
to  fupply  the  necefllties  of  the  poor,  without  allowing  fuch 
as  are  able  to  go  about  to  beg.  Such  as  confine  themfelves 
within  the  bounds  of  the  parifli  receive  occafional  fupplies 

from  the  funds. 

t  Si'.bcofs^'^ 


5 1 6  Statyiical  Account 

Seho&h. — In  the  parochial  fchool  are  taught  Ehglifli,  Latin, 
writing,  and  arithmetic.  The  fchoolniaftcr's  falary  is  200 
merks  Scots.  There  is  one  charity  fchool  in  GLenfhee,  en- 
dowed with  a  yearly  falary  by  the  Society  in  Scotland  for  pro- 
ing  Chriftian  Knowledge.  At  particular  times  of  the  year, 
efpecially  in  winter»  fome  perfons  voluntarily  aflume  the  of- 
fice of  fchoolmafters  in  the  remoter  parts  of  the  paxifli|  and 
teach  reading  of  EngUfh  and  writing. 

Language. — ^The  prevailing  language  in  the  parilh  is  the 
Gaelic  A  diale£^  of  the  ancient  Scotch,  alfoi  is  underilood, 
and  currently  fpoken.  Thefe  two,  by  a  barbarous  intermix- 
ture, mutually  corrupt  each  other.  All  the  names  of  places 
are  Gaelic. 

Antiquities  and  Curiofities. ^^In  the  middle  of  a  pretty  exten- 
five  and  elevated  heathy  moor,  (lands  a  large  heap  of  ftones, 
or  cairn,  i,o  yards  in  circumference,  and  about  25  feet  in 
height.  The  ftones  of  which  it  is  compofed  are  of  various 
iizes,  but  none  of  them,  as  far  as  they  are  vifible,  large ;  and 
appear  to  have  been  thrown  together  without  order.  They 
are  in  a  good  meafure  covered  with  mofs,  and  in  fome  parts 
overgrown  with  weeds.  This  circumftance  argues  the  great 
antiquity  of  the  cairn  •,  for  the  circumjacent  ground  being 
covered  with  heath,  and  of  a  firm  mould,  a  long  time  mud 
have  elapfed,  before  fo  much  earth  or  duft  could  have  been 
colleded  by  the  wind,  and  lodged  among  the  ftones,  as  to 
form  foil  for  the  nouriihment  of  plants  Round  this  cairn 
are  fcattered,  at  different  diftances,  a  great  number  of  fmaU 
Icr  cairns.  They  are  generally  found  in  groups  of  eight  or 
ten  together.  They  are  all  covered  more  or  Icfs  with  mofs 
or  heath.  About  a  furlong  to  the  weftward  of  the  great 
cairn  are  the  veftiges,  quite  diftind,  of  two  concentric  circu- 
lar 


Bf  Kirkmiciaeh  517 

lar  fences  of  ftonci  the  outer  circle  being  about  50  feet»  and 
the  inner  32  feet  in  diameter.  There  are  alfo  the  veftiges 
of  fix,  perhaps  more,  (ingle  circular  inclofures  of  ftone,  from 
32  to  36  feet  in  diameter,  lying  at  different  diftances  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  cairn.  Two  parallel  ftone  fences  ex- 
tend from  the  eaft  fide  of  the  cairn,  nearly  in  a  ftraight  line, 
to  the  fouthwatd,  upwards  of  100  yards*  Thefe  fences  are 
bounded  at  both  extremities  by  fmall  cairns,  and  feem  to 
form  an  avenue  or  approach  to  the  great  cairn  of  32  feet  in 
breadth.  There  can  be  little  doubt  that  all  thefe  are  re- 
liques  of  Druidifm ;  that  the  great  cairn  is  one  of  thofe  at 
which  they  celebrated  their  folemn  feCkivals  in  the  beginning 
of  fummer  and  the  beginning  of  winter,*  when  they  offer- 
ed facrifices,  adminiftered  juliice,  &c.  \  and  that  the  circles 
and  lefler  cairns,  muft  have  been  the  fcenes  of  fomc  other 
religious  rites,  of  which  the  memory  and  knowledge  are  now 
loft.  Similar  cairns  are  to  be  f^ien  in  the  neighbouring  pa- 
riflies,  and  in  diffTerent  parts  of  the  Highlands ;  but  this  pa- 
ri(h  has  to  boaft  of  a  more  uncommon  and  remarkable  mo- 
nument of  Druidical/uperftition, 

About  a  mile  N.  E.  from  the  above  mentioned  great 
cairn,  on  a  flat-topped  eminence,  furrounded  at  feme  diftance 
with  rocky  hills  of  confiderable  height,  and  fteef  afcent, 
ftands  one  of  thofe  recking  ftones  which  the  Druids  are  faid 
to  have  employed  as  a  kind  of  ordeal  for  detefting  guilt  in 

doubtful 


•  See  Smith's  Gaelic  Antiqaitiei,  page  31. ;  alfo  Statiftical  Account,  Vol.  Xf. 
page  6ai.  The  pradice  of  Ughtiog  bonfires  on  the  firft  night  of  winter,  ac- 
companied with  various  ceremonies,  iliU  prevails  in  this  and  the  neighbour- 
ing  Highland  parilbes.  The  cuftom,  too,  of  making  a  fire  in  the  fields,  bak« 
iog  a  confecrated  cake,  &c.  on  the  ift  of  May,  is  not  quite  worn  out. 


5 1 S  Stati/lical  Account 

doubtful  cafes,  f  This  ftone  is  placed  on  the  plain  furface 
of  a  rock  level  with  the  ground.  Its  fhape  is  quadrangular 
approaching  to  the  figure  of  a  rhombus,  of  which  the  great* 
cr  diagonal  is  7  feet,  and  the  Icflcr  5  feet.  Its  mean  thick- 
nefc  is  about  2^  feet.  Its  folid  contents  will  therefore  be 
about  519075  cubical  feet.  As  it  is  of  very  hard  and  folid 
whinftone,  its  weight,  reckoning  the  cubical  foot  at  S  ftoncs 
3  pounds,f  may  be  reckoned  to  be  418  ftone  5  pounds>  or 
within  30  pounds  of  3  tons.  It  touches  the  rock  on  which 
it  reds  only  in  one  line«  which  is  in  the  fame  plane  with  the 
Tefler  diagonal,  and  its  lower  furface  is  conyex  toward  the 
extremities  of  the  greater  diagonal.  By  preflTmg  down  ei- 
ther of  the  extreme  corners,  and  withdrawing  the  preiTurc^ 
xkernatelyj  a  rocking  motion  is  produced,  whkli  may  be  en- 

creafed 

t  The  creed  of  the  Celts  refpcAiog  thefe  rocklog  or  judgment  donci^  i« 
well  ctpreiTed  by  Mr  M^ron. 


-Behold  yon  hvgc 


And  unhewn  fphcre  of  living  adamant. 
Which,  poifcd  by  magic,  rcfts  its  central  weight 
On  yonder  pointed  rock ;  firm  as  it  feemi, 
Such  is  iu  ftrange  and  virtuous  property, 
«lt  moves  obfequious  to  the  gentled  touch 
Of  him  whofe  breait  13  pure ;  but  to  a  traitor 
Tho*  even  a  giact*i  proweft  nerv'd  hi&  arm 
It  (Lands  as  fiiM  as  Saowdon.  CAiACTACwik 

It  ii  fuppofed,  with  mucli  Appearance  of  reafoD,  that  this  ordeal,  thottgk 
k  appeared  in  the  eyes  of  the  vulgar  to  be  an  appeal  to  the  judgment'  of  the 
Supreme  Being,  was  in  fa6t  fubfervitnt  to  the  dcfigni  of  the  Druidical  priefts 
who  conducted  it ;  and  that  by  fome  expedient,  they  contrived  to  make  the 
sflTve  •f  the  trial  corrcfpond  either  to  the  judgment  which  they  had  prcvioiif- 
i|  formed  of  the  cafe,  or  to  their  defigfia  regarding  thexolprit. 

f  A  flone  of  the  fame  quality  with  the  rocking  ftone,  was  gauged  an4 
weighed,  and  fuund  to  weigh  at  the  rite  of    ftone>  3  iib>  the  cubic  fo«c. 


ilf  KirkmicbaeL  5  iy« 

creafed  fo  much,  that  the  diftance  between  their  loweft  dc- 
preffion  and  Mgheft  elevation  is  a  full  foot.  When  the  pref- 
fure  is  wholly  withdrawn^  the  ftone  will  continue  to  rock, 
till  it  has  made  26  or  more  vibratiohs  from  one  fide  to  the 
oth^r,  before  it  fettles  in  its  natural  horizontal  pofition* 
Both  the  lower  fiHe  of  the  ftone,  and  the  furface  of  the  rock 
on  which  it  refts,  appear  to  be  wprn  and  roughened  by  ma* 
tual  friftion.  There  is  xvcry  reafon  to  fuppofe,  from  the 
form  and  relative  fituation  of  the  furrounding  grounds,  that 
this  flone  muft  have  been  placed  in  its  prefent  pofition  by  the 
labour  of  men.  It  will  hardly  be  thought,  therefore,  an  ex- 
travagant degree  of  credulity,  to  refer  its  origin  to  the  fame 
period  with  thpfe  other  tribunals  of  a  fimilar  conftrudion^ 
mentioned  by  writers  who  have  treated  of  the  cuftoms  of  the 
ancient  Celts.  This  opinion  is  however  the  more  confirm- 
ed,  from  finding,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  this  ftone,  a  con- 
(xderable  number  of  other  Druidical  relics.^  On  the  north 
fide  of  the  ftone,  at  the  diftance  of  60  yards,  on  a  fmali  emi- 
nence, are  2  concentric  circles,  fimilar  to  that  already  de- 
icribed,  and  a  fingle  circle  adjoining  to  them  on  the  eaft 
fide.  Beyond  this,  at  37  yards  diftance,  on  another  fmall 
eminence,  is  another  pair  of  concerilric  circles,  with  a 
fingle  one  adjoining  to  them  on  the  eaft  fide.  Beyond 
thefe,  at  45  yards  diftance,  is  a  third  pair  of  concentric 
circles,  with  their  adjacent  circle  on  the  eaft  fide.  Far- 
ther on  to  the  north  eaft,  at  the  diftance  of  90  yards,  is  a 
fingle  circle,  and  befide  it  on  the  weft  fide,  two  rv?£langular 
cnclofures  of  37  feet  by  i2  ;  aKo  a  cairn  23  or  24  yards  in 
circumference,  and  about  12  feet  high  in  the  centre.  Several 
fmall  cairns  are  fcattered  in  the  neighbourhood  :  120  yards 
ivcft  from  the  rocking  ftone  is  a  pair  of  concentric  circles, 
wth  a  fmall  fingle  circle  befide  them  of  7  feet  in  diameter. 
All  the  pairs  of  concentric  circles  are  of  the  fame  dimenCons, 

the 


5^0  Statijlical  Account 

the  inner  one  being  about  32  feet,  and  the  outer  about  45 
or  46  feet  in  diameter ;  and  all  of  them  have  a  breach  or 
door- way  four  or  five  feet  wide  on  the  fouth  Gde.  The  fin- 
gle  circles  are^  in  general,  from  32  to  36  feet  in  diameter, 
and  have  no  breach.  The  veftiges  of  all  thofe  ftruftures  arc 
perfefUy  diftinji,  and  many  of  the  ftones  ftill  retain  the  e- 
re£t  pofture  in  which  all  of  them  had  probably  been  placed 
at  firft.  Cairns  and  circles  fimilar  to  thofe  defcribed  are  to 
be  feen  in  other  hills  of  this  parifli,  particularly  between 
Strathardle  and  Glenderby.  The  elevated  fituation  and  cold 
expofure  in  which  thefe  riuns  ly,  have  preferved  them  from 
being  ever  difturbed  by  the  plough,  which  has  effaced,  and 
probably  deftroyed  ruins  of  the  fame  kind  in  other  places. 
There  are  likewife  feveral  tall  ere6^  ftones,  called  here  in 
Gaelic,  Crom-Ieaca,  or  Clach*(hleuchda,  Jlones  of  tvorjb^. 
Some  of  thefe  are  5  and  fome  6  feet  above  the  ground,  and 
may  be  funk  a  confiderable  way  under  the  furface,  from  their 
remaining  fo  long  in  the  fame  pofition ;  for  a  fuperftitious 
regard  is  paid  them  by  the  people,  none  venturing  to  remove 
them,  though  fome  of  them  are  (ituated  in  the  middle  of  com 
fields. 

Manners  and  Cujloms. — ^The  people  are  humane  and  hof- 
pitable  to  flrangers,  of  a  fpirit  fomewhat  independent,  but  a- 
verfe  from  a  military  life.  The  greateft  fault  in  their  gene- 
ral chara£ter  is,  that  they  are  too  much  difpofed  to  litigation, 
for  which  they  are  noted  by  their  neighbours*  Three  (hc- 
rifF-ofEcers,  and  a  conftable,  refiding  witliin  the  pariOi,  find 
abundance  of  employment.  They  are  rather  inclined  alfo 
to  be  jealous  of  each  other,  and  feem  at  times  more  anxious 
to  repel  encroachments,  than  to  improve  their  own  poflcf- 
fions.  The  younger  part  of  the  people  are  fhowy  in  their 
drefs,  but  frugal  in  their  diet.    Shooting  matches,  and  rural 

balls, 


^aiis,  ate  ftequcnt  ;it  the  holy  fe^fon.  Foot  \^\  \^  ^  C019- 
tQoa  ^mulement  with  the  ictiOfA  boy^»  ^ho  allp  preCsrve  the 
cuftoi^  of  cpc]i:-fig];ituig.pa  Shix>ve  Tuefdaf.  All  the  peopU 
^re  of  the  eftablUhed  celigyon,  except  pQ^e  or  two  faimljics  of 
papills  in  Glenlhce. 

Di/advantages,f^Tke  pzxiih  is  divided  firom  4II  the  ftejgh* 
bourlng  diftrids  hy  hilU,  moft  of  theni  ffircxil  I9}le9  hroad« 
It  is  feparated  from  the  inar^ct  towns,  .an4  frolp  the  .S^or- 
monthj  (whence  it  is  fu^plied  with  meal  and  corn  and  othe|r 
peceffary  articles)  by  a  bi.ll>  though  not  hi^^  of  yery  deep 
afce^t  on  both  fide$.  Thi^  prpv^s  a  iprea^  b^^l  io  ^he  w^f  <v 
carriage.  The  inu^coivfe  of  the  pfiOple  with  <ai:li  othw"^  i$ 
in  fome  n(ke^(ure  difficult  and  dangpi:o.u(  ;  as  ovex  di^  X3pi4 
tiyer  which  nin^  .through  Strath^dk«  the^e  b  no  pxopc;^ 
bridge  from  the  one  end  of  it  to  the  other.  Thcf e  was  ^br* 
merly  ^  bridge  of  three  archer  at  th^  yillagc  Qf  ^i^kmichit.e}  i 
but  two  of  the  arches  fell  about  40  years  ago,  and  have  ne- 
ver fincc  been  re-built  i  and  the  only  fubftitute  for  thcfe  ar- 
ches, is  long  planks  laid  acrofs  the  river,  fuppotted  by  the 
remaining  pillars  of  the  old  bridge. 

A  kind  of  bar,  called  a  keith,  laid  acrofs  the  river  at  Blair- 
gowrie, by  thofi^  who  ate  concerned  in  the  falmon  fifliery 
there,  cffeftually  prevents  the  falmon  from  cbming  up  the 
rivers  of  Ardlc  and  Shec.  This  is  a  grievance  which  thd 
people  think  themfelves  jirilly  entitled  to  complain  of. 

The  tenants  in  different  parts  of  the  pariih  (lill  perform 
fomc  fervices  to  their  landlords,  fuch  as  day's  work  in  hay 
time  and  harveftj  or  at  fuel. 

Few  of  the  tenants  enjoy  leafcs  of  their  farriis.  Holdlnjj 
their  fmall  poffeflions  by  a  (hort  and  uncertain  tenure,  they 
are  kept  continually  in  a  ftate  of  abje^  dcpendance  on  thert* 
landlords.    It  muft  be  manifcft  to  every  obferver,  that  thd 

Vot4  XV4  3  X  fituatiori 


51 2  Statijlical  Account 

fituatipn  in  which  the  peafantry  are  thus  retained,  has  a 
ftrong  tendency  to  reprefs  the  exertions  of  induftry ;  to  cx- 
tinguifh  the  ardour  of  patriptifm,  that  attachment  to  his  na- 
tive foil,  which  glows  fpontaneoufly  with  fuch  warmth  in 
the  bread  of  a  Highlander ;  to  quench  the  fyirit  of  freedom 
imd  independence,  and 

**  Freeze  the  genial  current  of  the  foid.'' 
Is  it  that  the  landlords  are  apprehenfive  of  deriving  no  bene- 
fit to  themfelves  from  granting  leafes ;  or  of  their  tenants 
not  having  money  or  (kill,  or  induffry,  for  making  improve- 
ments ?  Of,  is  it,  that  the  tenants  are  unwilling  to  bind 
themfelves  for  a  number  of  years,  to  modes  of  cultivation, 
with  which  they  are  little  acquainted  ?  Or  is  it,  that  men, 
on  whom  wealth  and  power  have  conferred  one  kind  of  fu- 
periority^  find,  in  the  exercife  of  that  fuperiority,  and  in  re- 
ceiving that  fervile  dependence  of  their  inferiors,  a  gratifica- 
tion which  they  cannot  be  perfuaded  to  relinquifli? 


NCfMBER 


tfRedgorton,  ^i% 

NUMBER   XXV. 
PARISHoF  REDGORTON 

(County  of  Perth,  Presbytery  of  Perth,  Synoi 
OF  Perth  and  Stirling,) 

By  the  Rev.  Mr  David  Moncrieff^ 


Origin  of  tbi  Name^ 

T 

-i-  he  name  of  this  parifli  is  wrote  differently  Redgore-* 
town,  contraded  Redgorton,  Rogertown,  and  Regorton. 
The  firft  feecns  to  be  the  moft  ancient ;  and,  according  to 
▼algar  tradition,  is  derived  from  the  battle  of  Loncarty,  at 
which  time,  many  of  the  wounded  were  brought  to  the  cu- 
rate's houfe,  which  from  thence  was  called  Redgorotown,  at 
the  town  of  the  red-gore,  and  afterwards  gave  that  name  to 
the  whole  parifii.  Rogertown  is  derived  probably  from  the 
name  of  a  family,  Rogers,  now  entirely  extin£t ;  the  name  it- 
felf  is  now  become  obfolete.  The  other  name  Regorton,  i» 
Gaelic,  and,  as  I   am  informed,  fignifie?  in  that  language 

a  field  of  corn. 

3X  a  Extent. 


$  24  Statistical  Jtcount 

Extent. — It  i$  about  6  miles  long,  reckoning  from  Craig^f 
ingall,  the  Weftmoft  point,  to  Safelanding,  the  Eaftmoft, 
and  at  a  medium  n^ar  2  miles  broad.  There  is  a  fmall  part 
pf  tfaeparifh  disjoined  from 'the  reft,  which  is  about  6  mikt 
diftant  from  the  church,  running  along  the  foot  of  the  Gram« 
pian  Mount^ns,  and  interfeCted  by  a  neighbouring  pariQi, 
The  lower  part  of  tlie  parifti  extends  itfelf  in  an  irregular  fir 
gure,  running  along  the  rivers  Tay  and  Almond.  ♦ 

It  is  bounded  on  the  South  by  the  pari(h  of  Tippermuir, 
on  the  Weft  by  Metlwen,  on  the  Korth  by  Moncidy  and 
Aughtergaven,  and  on  the  Eaft  by  Scone. 

Situation y  SoU^  and  Air. — ^Thc  country  here  is  rather  hilly, 
but  the  high  grounds  are  neither  very  elevated  nor  fteep,  but 
rife  and  fall  gradually  towards  the  rivers,  where  the  land  is 
flat,  and  in  many  places  can  be  watered  by  th$  adjacent  ri- 
vers. -  »'     • 

The  foil  is  generally  light,  though  in  fome  places  there  is 
a  mixture  of  clay  and  Mack  fcatth  *,  ifi(t|  where  it  is  drained, 
and  the  large  muir-ftones,  found  here  and  there,  either  taken 
out,  or  funk  below  the  dq)th  of  the  plough,  thelandisabun- 
fiantly  fertile. 

The  Gtqation  of  this  parifli  being  mor6  elevftted  than  fome 
f>f  the  neighbouring,  tfie  air  is  pure  and  healthy*  The  moft 
prevalent  difttmper  is  the  ague^  which,  however,  is  ftldozn 
mortal^  and  fecms  almoft  confined  to  the  placet  neateft  the 
fivers,  an4  ^Q  ^^^t  vtdio  are  employed  tft  the  public  works 
fbere. 

iZiwr/.— The  river  Tay  runs  along  the  Eaft  fidc^of  the 
pari  ft).  Almond  on  the  South  and  Weft,  andShbdhie  and 
Prdie  on  the  Weft.    AU  ^he  rivers  in  this  pat t  of  the  coun* 

-    try 


^Rtdgcrtcn.  515 

tff  dUchafge  tli€fl(ifelfe»  into  the  Tay»  wUeh  i»  the  hrgeft 
riter  in  Scotland  \  vaAf  vhen  joined  \fj  the  Earn,  below 
Perth,  is  fuppofed  to  contain  more  fre(h  water  than  the 
Thames*  There  is  a  fmall  lake  in  the  disjoined  part  of  this 
parifiii  remarkable  for  it's  depth  in  proportion  to  it's  furface, 
which  produces  large  trout  of  a  blackiih  colour,  from  one  to 
two  pound  weight,  and  upwards.  The  river  Tay«  in  this 
neighbourhood,  abounds  with  iarhnon,  from  fixteen  to  twen« 
tf  pound  weight,  at  a  medium  ;  fea,  or  white  trout,  from 
one  to  four  pound ;  bull  trout  from  one  to  thirty  pounds  \ 
a  yellow  trout  from  two  pounds  and  downwafds,  and  a  few 
|>ike  and  eels.  There  is  alfo  to  be  found  here  a  fmall  fea 
trout,  called  the  Lammas  whitings  from  a  quarter  to  half  « 
pound  weight,  of  cxquifite  tafte.  It  is  fo  called,  from  its 
coming  up  frOm  the  fea  at  this  feafon.  The  falmott  and 
bull  fronts  are. caught  with  nets,  thoitgh  there  is  excellent 
r6d«fi(hing,  or  angHng  ki  Tay,  as  wen  as  b  the  other  three 
fif^rs,  though  in  thefe  there  ate  no  falmon  but  in  the 
fpawning  feafoii.  The  falmon  fifhihgs  let  to  tackfmen,  a- 
mount  to  about  1501.  annually.  The  lalmon  is  one  of  the 
ftaples  in  this  country,  and  is  generally  fent  to  the  London 
market,  or  up  the  Mediterranean.  When  fold  here,  they 
bring  in  Spring  9d.  a  pound,  and  5d'  in  Summery  though, 
till  within  thefe  30  years,  they  were  fold  at  2d  per  pounds 
and  were  fo  very  plentiful,  (the  export  trade  being  not  then 
known)  that  in  Perth  and  die  neighbourhood,  the  fervants 
made  an  anicle  at  hiring  time,  that  they  Ihould  npt  get  it 
.  above  twice  a-week. 

JniiquitUs. — ^It  was  in  this  parifli  that  the  famous  battle 
•f  Loncsrty  was  fought,  at  the  end  of  the  loth  century,  un* 
der  the  reign  of  Kenneth  III.  betwixt  the  Scots  and  the 
panes  1  wU^  was  fo  deofiyc;  that  of  the  enemy  engaged  ix|^ 

battle, 


52$  Stati/itcal  Account 

l)atde,  according  to  tradition,  thofe  who  efcaped  the  fword 
vere  drowned  in  the  river,  which  wae  then  fwelled  by  thq 
rains,  and  overflowed  its  banks.* 

*  It  was  for  their  gallant  bchaTionr  at  this  memorable  battle,  that  the  fa« 
mily  of  the  Hajs  were  enobled,  under  the  name  of  Hay  of  Enpl,  and  haj 
for  their  arrns^  argent^  three  efcutcbetm^guUtyWith  the  yoke  and  bow  infcribcd. 
iThe  common  repoit  is  fupported  by  the  teftimony  of  Hedor  Boetius,  ao4 
Buchanan,  that,  on  the  firA  on(et,  our  countrymen  gavq  way,  and  were  piic^ 
liied  by  the  yiiftorious  Danes  through  the  adjacent  fielJi.  This  being  ob- 
ferved  by  a  farmer  of  the  name  of  Hay,  or  Haia,  and  his  two  fons,  wh» 
were  plowing  in  the  adjacent  fields,  they  took  the  yokes  and  bows  of  their 
ploughs,  croffed  the  rifer  Tay,  and,  thus  accoutred,  having  taken  a  ftaod  at 
a  narrow  pais,  ftopped  their  fugitive  countrymen,  rallied  them*  renewed 
Ihe  battle,  drove  the  Panes  into  the  river,  and  thofe  that  wer^  not  drowned, 
were  cut  to  pieces.  After  this  great  {laughter,  the  King  went  with  thefe 
three  valiant  Heroes  in  triumphant  proceflion  into  the  town  of  Perth ;  and 
next  day  holding  an  aflembly  of  the  Sutes,  at  Scone,  it  was  decreed  to  give 
the  venerable  old  Champion  the  choice  of  the  hounds  cbafe,  or  the  falcooa 
flighty  as  a  poiTcffioQ  fuitable  to  the  honours  conferred  on  him  \  and,  cairy* 
ing  him  up  to  Kinnoul  Hills,  where  the  Daoilh  camp  had  lately  been^  that 
he  might  have  a  profped  of  the  fine  country  lying  below,  great  part  of  which 
was  to  be  his  inheritance,  he  made  choice  of  the  FalcoQ*s  flight.  The  bird 
took  its  flight  from  the  top  of  one  of  thefe  hills,  and  it  alighted  on  a  ftone 
hj  the  river  of  Tay,  a  mile  to  the  fouth  of  the  houfe  of  Enrol,  where  it 
Hands  at  this  day,  and  is  ftill  called  the  /a&M*j,  ar  howh^ifionf.  All  the  inter* 
mediate  lands  were  given  in  property  to  this  family,  but  have  fince  been  par- 
celled out  to'  diflerent  branches,  and  have  been  fold  to  others ;  ut^efs  that 
part  of  the  eftate,  which  is  flill  held  by  Hay  of  Xieys,  one  of  the  eldefk  ca- 
^ts  of  this  noble  family.  The  country  people  dill  fliow  the  ridges  of  where 
the  brave  Hay  and  his  fon  were  ploughing  when  they  joined  the  battle,  and 
^tj  were  diftinguifhed  from  the  reft  of  the  field  by  fmall  ftripes  of  grafs,  or 
baulks,  on  each  fide,  which  no  former  ever  dared  to  break  up  till  within  thef<: 
three  years.  They  flill,  aUb,  fliow  you  the  narrow  paf«,  where  the  Hays 
rallied  their  flying  countrymen,  which  is  now  levelled  down.  I  have  feea  it 
entire,  when  it  much  refembled  the  fmall  Roman  ftations,  which  are  to  be 
ieen  in  maiiy  places  of  Scotland,  though  not  fo  regular.  They  point  out  tbe 
|«fff  ofrmn  hilluks^  where  the  Danes  began  to  retreat,  and  the  hollow  way, 
fwdcr  cover  of  which  the  Clans  furrounded  the  Danes.    I  have  fcen  a  great 

mimucr 


of  Redgorton.  527. 

M^tm  Hijhrj  and  Improvements.— The  modem  faiftory  of 
this  parifli^  will  appear  to  the  Statefiuan,  to  be  much  more 
ufeful  than  a  minute  account  of  its  antiquities. 

Cromwell 

number  of  tumuli,  or  burrows,  fcattered  over  the  fieM  of  battle,  where  the 
dead  were  buried,  not  raifed  in  any  regular  order ,  or  in  one  plkct,  but  where 
ever  the  (lain  fell  in  the  greatcft  numbers ;  but  they  are  now  almod  levelled 
with  the  reft  of  the  ground.    I  have  feen  many  of  them  opened,  and  the 
light  afhes  found  there  in  great  quantities,  evince  the  nature  of  their  contents. 
Some  of  the  bones  have  been  dug  out  quite  entire,  particularly  a  large  hu- 
man ikulJ,  the  jaw-bone  and  teeth  being  entire,  in  the  prefence  of  the  Itte 
Df  Bofwell,who  lodged  it  in  the  Edinburgh  Mufaeum.  In  thefe,  and  through 
the  whole  field,  which  may  contain  near  three  hundred  Scotch  acres,  there 
have  been  found  hilts  and  blades  of  fwords,  fpears,  and  bitts  of  bri<ttes.«>-* 
Some  of  thefe  were  in  the  pofTefSon  of  the  neighbouring  grentlemen,  and 
there  is  a  houfe  carpenter,  who  made  of  them  planes,  faws,  and  tools  of  hnf 
bandry.    The  field  of  battle,  till  of  late,  was  grown  over  with  heath  and 
brufliwood,  but  is  now  cultivated,  and  become  a  rich  field  of  cbm,  fo  that« 
In  a  literal  fenfe,  **  the  fword)  have  been  beat  into  plough  fliares,  their  fpears 
into  pruniug  hooks,  and  the  defert  land  has  become  a  fniitful  field."    Theie^ 
and  many  other  circumflancca,  too  minute  to  relate,  were  told,  and  pointed 
out  to  me,  with  as  much  cnthufiafm,  efpecially  by  an  old  man  of  the  name 
of  Blair,  whofe  anceftors  had  been  long  proprietors  in  the  neighbonrhood,  as 
If  they  had  happened  in  his  own  time.    The  only  temakis  of  the  famous 
battle  now  to  be  feen,  the  lad  of  the  tumuli  being  levelled  two  years  ago,    i 
are  the  graves  where  the  Daniih  General  and  Officers  were  buried*  at  the 
head  of  which  there  are  large  fiones  fiill  (landing,  and  a  honfe  latdy  inha* 
bited,  called  to  this  day  Venmarl,    To  confirm  the  truth  of  this  ancient 
piece  of  hiftory,  we  have  the  uninterrupted  tradition  of  the  country,  the  tef- 
timony  of  our  moft  ancient  Hiftorians,  the  undoubted  marks  of  a  battle,  the 
armorial  bearings  of  the  Errol  Family,  the  Bows  and  the  Yokes,  as  far  baek 
as  the  twelfth  century ;  and  could  any  pieces  of  the  armour  be  difcorered,  of 
which  there  is  fome  probability,  (bowing  their  origin  to  be  Dantfli,  it  would 
put  the  matter  beyond  all  doubt. 

Another  piece  of  antiquity  not  to  be  omitted,  is  the  continuation  of  the 
caufeway,  leading  from  the  Roman  camp  at  Ardqch,  which  crofiils'the  Tay 
at  its  prefoit  conflux  with  the  Almond.  At  this  place  there  are  the  remains 
*f  a  Roman  ftation,  reguUrl/  formed  into  a  f^piare,  fonrounded  With  a  deep 

US 


5^8  Statifiic^U  Accwnt 

Crom^oeii  Pttrh—l  fhaU  hegm  at  iS^t  Weft  ea4,  wA  pro« 
cecd  regularly  to virds  ths  £»ftr    Tbc  fiift  objed  4e£enriB^ 

aotiice 

fofie,  which  has  been  for  fome  years  gradually  wafhing  awiy  by  the  over- 
flowing  €(f  the  ^laaond.  Thece  have  been^og  ap  foreral  jdaffchco  oms,  fiU 
kd;iMlh.hiinpn  aibet ;  pacticniarjy  a  large  ope^  about  half  an  bch  in  tbick* 
aeli,  made  «f  «  «ery  fine  clay  of  a  br«wp  colour^  pUted  on  the  iofidc  with 
bxiiAi  Wmoll  confHnaod,  and  xoviered  with  Tcrdigreefe,  cont^iiung  aboat  ten 
B^glUh  ^gallons.  iMiotber  very  corictua  ope  dUcoTercd^  was  /matte/  than  the 
fiocQiar,  the  contents  of  which  were,  a  few  aflies  of  oak-wood,  and  pan  of  a 
ladlifjiatory,  which  wm  ;a  ihtall  glafs  phial,  the  eighth  of  an  inch  in  .thidt- 
fidi,  -oomainx^g  ^boot  an  fagtifii  ^oact  and  a  half;  at  the  bottom  of  an«tbcr 
•f  ^theCtiWM  itmsA  a  pkte  of  iead/  weighipg  pboot  two  fton^wfi^^  with 
ftnaofP'^hvaAai  inibribed. 

Tbf^iwHwVitrw  «f  41  wooden  bridge  .thvown  over  the  Tay  at  (hit  place  ftip 
iBmaiBt.  M.  coofilb'^tf  lai^ge  <»ak  pUnjks*  from  ^  to  eight  inches  ip  diameter^ 
fsAeMd  4ofitlwr  •by  loog.ikaii^  but  coariely  jpinted*  .and  Xarro«nded  with 
da%s  ^  jNMu  freqnontly  ««;ifM.  Jk  would  Xeem»  .th»t  .imwbplt^  and  fine 
■nmk  jointt,  «nHBe  tbffp  .vnfcaown.  I  xanfed  onejof  them.tp  be. railed Xome 
yoMB  Jigo,  «tihe  tf^neft  of -the  late  Or  liqp^  who  a^iired  me  that  the  fa- 
biic  of  iftkevw^Ml  w^uupot  an  .the  Jcad  decayed.  At  the  other  eod»  beypnd 
thia;brid9e,,to  t^e  NiM(th£ji|fc}  these  Are  fi>cpe  remaitv  of  the  continoation  of 
the  eanTcMKHr,  4dm«il  M  .for-as  <BlairgQ«f  ie,  boymid  i^hicb  tbere  are  Jip  jkql- 
tes  of  thb  fiuosM  ipitl«t»ir  coiKi  to  he  ^covered*  libb  gtvepgr^c  ooedit 
to ihcifipoft^f  »tbe  <hptUe  ,betfwi^  AgcicoJa  aodiOalgacos .beJAg^fboght  in 
that  tadfhbwrbMd'  T^itps  .infonas  .iif,4hat  Jiis  /aiher-in-hw  Agricola 
a«t<«Mth  41  heM^f  ftcoke  in  .the  death,  of  his  opiy  fopj  an  inljuit,  which  greu- 
If  iiiii^idbim.  A&eraratds;hc.I^d  bit  anny  to  the  ibot  jof  the  Qran^iana* 
whe«e«h«s  jbMKl0««s  Xoi^^  and  .wbfic^  Agricpbb  .not  withont  omch  blood- 
lhod,4Pt«nPipad  jaiUUr  of  the  .fidd*  Jp  this  <ays^gemeot,  Auliiv  Atticus 
«ipiaiii  iqf«a  foMty.iaas Jkill^  Ue  wjm  ^fteqned  hy  Agticola,  and  pipch  la- 
»^illMAriIw«ad  the  amif  •  It  is  4|ot  imp^abk,  that  the  laige  omament- 
ad^PlP^Qlmvd  the  aih«siif  ^dcqla's  fop»  and  that  the  (jnallcr  one  with 
the  lachryniatory,  the  a(hes  of  Atticiis,  who  wi>abl.be  jftterrcd  with  militarf 
teuMirf^  XI^]pnBfc|}tc4urre/)rthe.<l4nk<wd,  though  ne^r  the  roilit|iry  road 
«9dJW0|t>is^tai^J>alf  a  joite  tPtbe  p^rlhjrard  from  its  juuAion  with 
the  rE%y  in  Jonnftr  ^tiiiMf.  Xhia  ri^i^^q^ieiitlj  bad  its  courfe  by  RuthTcn 
ihftcy  MW  ^ftatji|g|»wer,  .«ilv(».tbc«  is  iIUU  »  Anall  riTnlet,  kno^  I>y 


ofRedgQrton.  5^9 

notice  is  Cromwell  Park.  This  was  lately  cnclofcd  with  a 
(lone  dyke,  and  may  contain  about  one  hundred  and  fixty 
Vol.  XV.  3  Y  acres 

I  he  name  of  Old  Almond.  At  this  place  there  was  a  Rcyal  Fort,  and  a  fmall 
village  called  Baitba,  which  was  carried  down  the  river  in  the  nij^hc  time  bjr 
a  very  great  iAondation  King  William  the  firft,  fyrnamcd  the  Lion,  bad 
his  youogeft  fon,  John,  with  his  nurfe,  a^nd  £oiiixeeD  of  hi$  dome{lic«,  earned 
down  the  river  and  drowned.  This  hsppencd  in  the  year  one  thoufand, 
tiiro  hundred  and  ten;  fo  far  Buchanan,  and  hi«  prcdeceifor  Boe- 
tius  defer ve  credit,  and  their  naration  is  con6rmed  by  other  hiflorians,  at 
well  as  by  the  conftant  tradition  But  that  the  King,  about  two  years  af- 
terwards, removed  the  remains  to  the  prcfcnt,  fite  of  the  town  of  Perth, 
.  which  he  afterwards  called  Perth,  or  Perthai,  is  by  no  means  d|:ferving  of 
equal  credit.  That  Perth  k^  been  overflowed  by  the  waters  of  the  Tay,  is 
certain,  but,  from  the  digging  for  the  foundation  of  fome  houfes  lately 
built,  there  have  been  difcovered  paved  ftreets,  from  three  to  ten  feet  deep, 
io  that  it  has  probably  always  flood  on,  or  near  to  its  prefent  fituatiou.  This 
opinion  is  ftrengthened  by  tiiis  circumilance,  that  tlie  charter  granted  by 
King  William  is  only  a  n«va  damiu,  or  a  renewal  of  a  former  charter. 

There  are,  in  various  parts,  remains  of  Diuidical  places  of  worihip,  and 
judgment,  particularly  at  Uver  Beochil,  where  there  aie  twelve  large  flonrs 
fet  on  end,  and  one  larger  in  the  middle.  At  fome  fmall  diilanee,  there  are 
other  two,  the  one  with  nine,  and  the  other  with  feveo,  and  what  is  peculiar 
with  thefe  here  and  elfewhere,  is,  that  the  number  is  always  an  odd  one. 

There  are  large  heaps  of  (lones  near  Pitcaim,  called  penance  cairns,  which^ 
according  to  .the  tradition  of  the  country,  were  colle^ed  by  way  of  penance 
in  the  time  of  popery.  They  are  in  the  neighbourhood  of  a  popiik  chapel^ 
which  is  now  in  ruins. 

About  a  quarter  ol  a  mile  below  Stantey,where  the  river  Tay  is  of  confi- 
iiderable  breadth,  there  is  a  natural  ridge  of  rocks  that  nans  acro&  the  river| 
almofl  forming  an  arch,  which,  at  the  top,  within  thefe  thirty  years,  was  only 
eighteen  feet  wide  :  but  the  arches  were  thrown  down  of  late,  in  order  to 
build  a  dam  dyke  for  an  inlet  of  the  water  to  liuncarty  Bleachfidd.'  Two  fi- 
milar  arches  were  formed  ottr  the  river  Ahnood,  where  they  were  but  of 
late  widened  for  fimilar  purpofes.  The  fabric  of  thefe  is  not  inferior  in'point 
of  fymmetry  to  the  work  of  the  mofl  ingenious  debited,  but  greatly  fui^afs 
the  an  of  human  hands  in  point  of  Ateogcb. 

I  Ihall  clofe  this  aceount  of  the  anciqaities  of  this  pariA,  "by  obfervlng, 
that  io  a  field,  called  to  this  day  Cromwell  Path,  the  report  is,  that  the  Pro. 

teftor 


5  3#  Statijlical  Account 

9cr^.    The  proprietor,  about  fourteen  years  ago,  oflfered  \% 
let  the  whole  for  a  rent  of  thirty  pounds  fterling ;  now  it 
is  become  the  feat  of  two  large  manufaSure.s,  a  cotton  mill, 
and  a  print-field,  and  brings  to  the  proprietor  of  the  land  an 
hundred  a-year  \  but,  if  we  take  in  the  innprovcment  of  the 
adjoining  fields,  neceflarily  conne&ed  witli  thefe  great  works, 
its  value  can  fcarcely  beeftimated.     About  twelve  years  ago, 
Mr  William  M* Alpine,  from  the  neighbourhood  of  Glafgow, 
a  clergyman's  fon,  who  had  been  bred   a  calHco  printer, 
came  to  view  this  country,  and  having  beheld  with  afto* 
nifliment  the    great    quantity  of   frefh    water,    the    nu- 
merous   falls    for    working    machinery  by  water,    made 
choice  of  this  fpot  for  erefting  a  cotton  mill  and  print-field, 
Enlarging  his  views  as  he  difcqvcred  more  of  the  advan* 
tages  of  the  fituation  of  the  neighbourhood  near  Perth,  he  fet 
down  very  extenfive  works  for  printing  on  the  other  fide  of 
the  Tay,  in  the  parifh  of  Scone,  now  called  Stormontfield  \ 
and  ihowed,  in  all  his  operations,  an  extent  of  genius,  hither- 
to unknown  in  this  part  of  the  country.    But,  fuch  is  the  fa- 
tality of  all  human  fcliemes,  not  content  with  his  views  in 
this  country,  he  unhappily  involved  himfelf  with  fomc  of 
the  great  houfes  in  Manchcftcr,  who  failed  feme  years  ago, 
by  the  market  being  overftocked  with  cottons,  and  with  them 
he  fell.     However,  the  fpirit  he  raifed  in  this  neighbourhood, 
caught  fome  of  the  wealthy  people  in  Perth,  who  hitherto 
had  not  obferved  their  natural  and  local  advantages.     Now  a 
company  of  Perth  merchants  carry  on  here  both  the  fpin- 
ning  cotton  and  printing  calicoes.   The  printing,  in  the  year 

preceding  the  fixtb  of  July,  feventeen  hundred  and  ninety* 

one, 

tedor  had  a  fmall  advanced  c»mp»  to  check  the  iiir«ada  of  the  Hjghlaodeft 
into  Perth,  which  afterwards  gave  the  name  to  this  fieid,  which  it  fltU  le- 
taiiu«  In  digging  the  foundation  of  a  couon  miU,  which  has  lately  been  o- 
rcded  there,  fquare  iron  fliot  of  thirty-two  pounds  weight  were  found,  whii^ 
py^  credibility  to  the  common  report,  which  has  never  been  dovbted. 


cfkedgoHon^  $%t 

biie^  amounted  to  198,188  fqu^re  yards  of  calicoes  and  li>- 
nens,  and  has  fince  varied,  mote,  or  Icfs,  according  to  thtf 
demand.  When  the  cotton  mill  is  finifced,  it  will  contain 
about  four  thoUfand  fpindles,  and  give  employment  tb  near 
nine  hundred  hands.  There  are  about  one  hundred  and  fi& 
ty  employed  in  various  branches  of  the  printing  bufinefS)  be* 
fides  their  families; 

Pttcairn-Greifi. — Adjoining  to  thefc,  aiid  •dependant  on 
them,  is  the  village  of  Pitcairn-green,  which  is  only  in  its  in- 
fancy ;  but  of  which  Mrs  Co^i^ley,  in  her  elegant  poem  oit 
this  rifing  village,  predicts,  that  it  will  one  day  rival  Manche& 
ter.     May  her  prophecy  be  foon  accompliflied ! 

Batileby. — ^Proceeding  caftward,  the  next  village  is  fiattle^ 
t>y,  near  where  the  battle  of  Loncarty  was  fought,  but  as  yet 
there  are  few  houfes  built.  It  is  meant  for  weavers,  and 
to  accommodate  the  Loijcarty  company. 

Loncarty. — About  half  a  mile  further  oti,  is  Loncarty^ 
where  Hand  the  works  ereftcd  by  the  late  Mr  William  Sande- 
fhan.  There  is  a  large  farm  here,  and  though  the  foil  is  rafhct 
barren^  the  hand  of  indnftry  has  wrought  woiidcrs.  I  havd 
with  pleafure  frequently  beheld  this  ingenious  man  pointing 
out  to  ftrangers  a  fmall  field  containing  about  fix  acres> 
which  he  intended  for  bleaching  thread,  and  to  which  he  ori- 
ginally dcfigned  tb  confine  his  attention  in  that  branch  o^- 
bufirtefs*  But  fcarcc  was  it  finifhed,  wherl  his  ideas  ejcpand- 
cd,  and  for  mdre  fhan  thirty  years  paft,  there  have  been 
eighty  acres  or  upwards  covered  with  cloth,  which  has  been 
Whitened  and  drcffed  cither  after  the  Dutch  or  IriDi  modc^ 
in  fo  perfe£t  a  manner,  that  as  yet  it  is  unrivalled  in  great 
Britain.  Mr  Sandeman  was  very  lucky  in  adopting  a  fkil- 
3  Y  a  fill 


532  Statijlical  Account 

Hi  and  attcniive  partner,  Mr  Ilcilor  Turnbull,  who  with 
great  fucccfs  C5>ndufi:ed  the  operative  part  of  this  work. 
Five  hundred  thoufand  fquarc  yards,  at  a  medium,  arc  bleach- 
ed annually  \  and  though  both  thcfc  gentlcrficn  arc  now  dead, 
tTieir  fbns  and  dcfccndants  condud  itiattcts  in  fuch  a  ma*^ 
tcrly  way,  that  the  bufniefa  is  rather  increafing  for  thcfc  two 
years  pall.  IJefides  linens  of  various  defcripttons,  they  have 
now  begun  to  bleach  muflins.  This  company  fpins  cotton 
by  jcanics,  conftruflcd  after  the  moft  approved  plan  -,  the 
carding  and  rbving  are  performed  by  water.  They  employ 
about  a  thoufand  fpindlcs.  They  made  their  own  foap  and 
Candles  til!  of  late.  They  refine  their  old  lees,  and  from 
them  make  aihes.*  It  i^uld  fwcH  this  narration  too  much^ 
to  defcribe  minutely  tlie  various  and  extenfive  machinery, 
the  canals,  and  fprings  of  water,  conduced  at  very  confidcr- 
able  expence  to  keep  the  whole  in  motion.  I  fliall  only  add, 
tliat  to  far  from  being  as  yet  complete,  when  they  either  ob- 
tain a  n^w  leafc,  or  a  feu,  from  the  proprietor,  which  is  now 
in  agitation,  their  works  will  probably  be  greatly  enlarged, 
and  other  new  branches  of  manufaflure  introduced,  as  they 
have  fevcral  water  faJis  yet  unoccupied.  There  arc  more 
than  three  hundred  employed  here,  befides  their  familicf. 

AH  the  manufaftures  I  have  taken  notice  of,  arc  ercftcd 
on  the  eftate  of  Colonel  Gtaham  of  Balgowan,  who  has  three 
'  fourths  of  the  whole  pariih.  This  gentleman,  for  fomc  time 
{>a(t,  has  given  confiderable  attention  to  improving  his  lands, 
hiaa  planted  with  great  tafte  many  thoufands  of  firs,  and  all 
maimer  of  foreft  wood  \  covered  with  trees  the  little  emi- 
Aences  iri  difH:rent  places  \  run  flips  of  planting  for  miles 
'  ;JoBg  the  different  farms,  and  Cwixt  the  different  enclofures  ; 
built  fences  with  ditches  and  quicks;  and  where  flones 
could  be  got^  has  made  fnap  dykes,  which  form  an  imme- 
diate fence.   So  that  from  being  heath  and  uncultivated  land, 

his 


•fRedgorton.  533 

liis  eztenfive  eftate  has  become  almoft  a  garden :  and  how- 
ever brilliant  hU  fervice  to  his  country  has  been,  in  nu&ng 
for  Government  two  battalt(ms  of  foldiers,  his  patriotifm,  in 
improving  fo  mu^h  wafte  land,  is  a  more  eflential  fervice, 
and  will  continue  when  the  brilliancy  of  his  martial  exploits 
will  be  forgotten. 

Stanley — After  pafling  Loncarty  and  Mr  Graham's  proper** 
ty,  we  come  next  to  the  eftate  of  Nairn,  belonging  to  the 
Duke^  of  Athol,  where  the  improvements  are  not  lefs  rapid 
and  worthy  of  notice.  The  mod  remarkable  obje£h  here  is 
the  cotton  mill  of  Stanley,  which  employs  about  2000  fpin« 
dies ;  and  beiides  this,  there  is  now  ereAing  a  mill  for  fpio* 
ning  flax ;  but  as  the  fite  of  both  thefe  are  in  die  pari(h  ol 
Aughtergavin,  I  (hall  only  here  take  notice,  that  a  (mall  rivu« 
let  running  through  the  village,  divides  the  two  pari(he8,  and 
when  the  whole  plan  is  completed,  there  will  be  more  than 
the  half  of  it  in  this,  befides  the  whole  of  their  prefent  farm; 
In  that  part  of  the  village  belonging  to  Redgorton,  dieit  arc 
at  prefent  about  three  hundred  fouls. 

As  to  the  improvements  of  land,  what  is  remarkable,  is  this 
circumftance,  that  about  three  or  four  years  ago,  two  thirds 
were  headi,  and  now  they  are  fertile  fields  of  com,  wheats 
and  grafs.  The  two  farms  moil  improved,  and  which  more 
immediately  catch  the  eye  of  the  traveller,  are  thofe  poflef* 
fed  by  Mr  James  Stobie,  land-furveyer,  and  Mr  Charles 
Stewart,  on  each  of  which  there  are  ereded  houfes  and  offi- 
ces in  a  taftey  ftile. 

Befides  the  public  works  already  mentioned,  there  b  one' 
corn  mill,  one  oil  ditto,  one  flour  ditto,  and  one  barley  dittOy 
belonging  to  Lord  Methven,  at  the  mills  of  Pitcairn.  In  o» 
tlier  places,  there  are  two  t:om  mills,  belonging  to  CokMiet 
Graham. 

Iff 


534  Statijlical  Aciount 

In  the  whole  of  tliis  parifli,  three  fourths  of  which  wcW 
within  thefe  few  years  heath  and  fwamps,  there  are  little 
more  than  3O0  acres  of  muir,  the  reft  being  under  tillage,  of 
covered  with  ttecs.  In  the  lower  part  of  the  parifh  there  are 
3289  acres. 

Pcpulaiion. — In  the  year  1755  by  Dr  Webftcr's  computa* 
tion,  the  numbers  were  X074.  There  muft  have  been  a  miftake 
here :.  for  in  the  year  1 763,  when  the  prcfent  incumbent  was 
fettled,  by  an  accurate  furvey,  the  number  of  fouls  amounted 
to  little  more  than  600.  In  the  year  177^,  they  amounted 
to  1 700  and  odds^  and  now  to  2 1 23,  of  which  507  are  under 
10  years  of  age*  But  as  fome  of  the  manufa£iures  are  in  a 
ftate  of  infancy,  and  as  there  aie  not  yet  houfes  built  vrithtn 
the  parifh  fulHcient  to  accomodate  thofe  employed  therein^ 
who  are  obliged  to  lodge  in  the  neighbouring  parifhes,  the 
prefent  numbers  are  but  an  imperfe<^  (ketch  of  the  hands 
employed  in  the  various  branches  of  trade.  Houfes  are  con- 
tinually building  \  fo  that,  in  a  few  years,  the  numbers  of  this 
parifli  will  probably  be  doubled  -,  particularly  at  the  cotton 
works  in  Cromwell  Park,  where  at  prefent  two  floors  only 
are  filled  with  machinery  ;  but  before  Whitfunday  next,  the 
whole  will  be  completed,  which  will  bring  an  increafe  of 
400  or  500  inhabitants* 

As,  the  regifter  of  births  and  burials  is  not  accurately 
kept;  as  poor  people  in  many  cafes  omit  entering  their 
names  in  the  regifter^  •  to  avoid  the  trifling  expcnce  of 
regiftration,  and  fome  bury  the  dead  without  the  afliftancc 
of  the  fexton,  the  account  of  either  cannot  be  exad :  but 
from  the  moft  authentic  documents  that  can  be  collc£l* 
cd,  the  annual  births,  for  fome  time  paft,  at  a  medium,  a* 
mount  to  fomewhere  betwixt  80  and  tco,  the  burials  be« 
twixt  20  and  30,  and  the  marriages  about  18. 

There 


•fRcdgorton.  535 

There  arc  about  30  weavers,  but  their  number  will  foon 
increafe ;  three  fmithies,  and  two  mafter  houfe  carpenters,  be- 
fidcs  thofc  belonging  to  the  public  works  5  there  are  fevcn  pu-* 
blic  houfes,  but  three  would  be  perfeftly  fufficicnt  for  every 
ufeful  purpofe.  1  here  are  no  refiding  heritors^  neither  are 
there  here-  any  phyficians,  lawyers,  or  attornies.  There  are 
14  farms,  of  which  10  are  the  property  of  Colonel  Graham, 
Befides  thefe,  are  many  fmall  poiTefTions,  having  attached  to 
them  from  one  to  ten  acres.  -  There  fcems  to  be  a  defign 
formed,  and  already  carried  into  execution  for  about  tw© 
miles,  to  conneft  thefe  fmall  pendicles  and  the  various  villa- 
ges ;  fo  that  within  a  few  years,  the  whole  length  of  the  pa- 
rifh,  which  is  about  fix  miles,  will  appear  as  one  conneftcd 
village.  There  are  no  oxen  ufed  there,  either  for  plowing  or 
the  draught ;  and  as  the  common  plough  is  generally  drawa 
-fey  two  horfes*  the  number  of  black  cattle  reared  here  is  but 
.  fmall,  and  generally  fold  at  the  age  of  two  or  three  year^* 
There  is  not  a  man  or  woman  that  has  either  hand  or  limb 
without  employment. 

ProduBukns — The  crops  raifcd  here  arc  wheat,  rye,  barley, 
oats,  peafe,  turnips,  flax,  potatoes,  and  grafs-feeds  of  various 
kinds  ;  the  one  half  of  the  farms  being  generally  in  grab. 
They  export  feme  wheat  and  rye,  large  quantities  of  barley^ 
Ibme  young  cattle,  and  confiderable  quantities  of  Hates.  They 
import  fome  of  the  larger  kind  or  horfes,  and  great  quanti- 
ties of  oats  and  oat  meal.  There  are  two  fmall  pits  of  (hell- 
xnarle,  and  the  rivers  Almond  and  Shockie  are  lined  with  rock 
marie,  of  a  reddifti  colour.  They  generally  lay  50  bolls  of 
iheH-marle  on  the  acre,  but  four  times  that  quantity  of  rock 
.  ftiarle ;  the  former  lofes  it  virtue  within  five  year§,  while  the 
other  continues  to  operate  for  fifteen,  and  feems  fully  to  com- 
pCP&t^  for  the  extra  expence  in  digging  and  carriage* 

In 


S  36  Statifikal  Account 

la  tbe  lover  part  of  tlic  paxifh,  there  arc  2,439  acres  ara- 
ble, 250  on  natural  pafture,  300  planted,  and  nearly,  as  much 
in  hcatb#   There  is  a  naeafurcmcnt  of  the  wljole  parifh. 

Jliifceiianous  Oberfcrvaiions^ — Advantages. — From  the  local 
£tuation  of  this  parilh^  it  is   both  healthy,  i^nd  capable  of 
great  improvements^  from  there  being  w^ter  falli  at  many 
places  yet  unoccupied.    The  fick  from  Perth,  vhich  is  al- 
moft  fituated  as  low  as  the  fnrface  of  the  river,  come  here 
to  breathe  a  purer  air,  and  to  recover  health.    The  difciples 
of  the  late  Mr  John  Glafs,  who  was  the  father  and  fouatler 
of  the  independents  in  Scotland,  can  attcft  tlie  truth  of  this. 
Tliey  find  Loncarty  a  place  both  chearful  and  nourifhin^  ; 
from  which  the  wearied  £eldom  gp  without  refreihmcnt,  or 
the  hungry  without  being  fed.     The  work  people,  employed 
in  the  various  manufadlures,  are  diftingui(hed  frpm  their 
neighbours  by  the  cleanlinefs  aqd  neatnefs  of  their  dref;?, 
particularly  the  females,  who,  upon  this  account,  are  gene* 
rally  married  very  young.     There  is  a  fprightlinefs  and  vi- 
vacity in  their  manners,  which  is  very  engaging  ;  and  on  all 
convivial  occafions,  especially  at  their  weddings,  as  they  arc 
generally  taught 'to  dance,  theydifplaya  gaiety  and  order, 
which  is  fddom  found  in  other  places.    The  bounds  of  the 
parifli  do  not  confine  this  humour,  but  it  has  diflofed  itfelf 
through  the  whole  country ;  and,  the  proprietors  of  thofe 
works  who  refide  in  Perth,  Iiave  felt  its  influence.      la 
place  of  travelltng  in  carts,  and  being  jaded    on    hacks, 
many  of  the  manUfa&urers  have  their   own   horfes  for 
ndxng,  and  give  an  airing  to  their  wives  and  children,  in 
genteel  carrigcs.    The  gentlemen  and  ladies  there,  are  dref- 
jfed  with  the  fame  elegance  that  is  obferved  in  other  places, 
and  their  baUs  and  aflemblies  are  no  lefs  brilliant.      A  dr« 
cumftance  deferving  notice^  is  this,  that  about  thirty  years 

ago, 


ofkedgorton.  537 

aga,  there  were  onty  three  or  four  chaifes  in  Perth  to  be 
let  for  hire,  and  now  there  are  fixteen ;  and  thefe  muft  be 
bcfpbfcc  feveral  days  before  they  are  needed,  otherwife  the 
intended  jaunt  mull'  be  poftponed.  This  increafe  cannot 
be  altogether  imputed  to  ftrangers  who  pafs  through  Perth 
as  a  thorough*frire,  but  alfo  to  the  ^xt^t  increafe  of  the 
manuf  ifiElires,  which  fupply  not  only  the  neceflaries,  but 
alfo  the  elegancies  of  life.  ITie  attention  to  decorum  has 
extended  itfelf  to  the  public  worlhlp  of  the  Deity,  where, 
beiides  the  Pftlms  of  David,  the  j)  iraphrafcs  lately  recom- 
mended by  the  General  Aflcmbly,  are  fung  in  various  parts, 
ihrtth  fome  hymns  and  anthems ;  fo  that  the  muGc  in  this 
church  is  not  excelled  but  by  few  in  this  kingdom.  At  the 
celebration  of  the  groat  Chriftian  feftival,  the  Sacrament  of 
the  Supper,  though  the  church  fcarcely  contains  the  com- 
itiUnicantS)  there  is  no  field  or  tent  preaching,  a$  in  fome 
other  places,  fo  derogatory  from  the  folemnity  of  diis  infti- 
tution. 

Difadvantages. — However,  on  the  whole,  it  muft  be  ac- 
knowledged, that  the  elevated  and  unequal  furface  of  the 
greater  pare  of  the  lands,  render  it  wet  and  fpungy,  and 
the  large  whin  ftones  found  detached  in  different  places, 
make  it  difficult  to  labour  with  the  plough.  But  the  one 
can  be  removed  by  drains,  which  can  eaiily  be  filled  with 
fmall  (tones,  found  every  where  in  abundance  ;  and  the  o- 
ther,  either  by  digging,  blowing,  or  by  finking  thcni  below 
the  level  of  tlie  plough.  If  the  tenants  have  no  leifure  for 
thefe  operations,  diere  are  undertakers  here,  who  will  exe- 
cute the  work  cither  by  day  wages  or  per  aerc.  It  is  an  im- 
pediment to  the  building  here,  that  there  is  no  free-ftone  in 
the  parifh  \  but  this  can  be  found  in  the  neighbourhood,  par- 
ticularly near  the  confines  of  the  pariih  of  Meihven.   When 

Vol.  XV.  3  Z  ,  they 


5  jS  Statiflkal  Account 

they  build  with  whuv^oxiCy  elt]^.  ifi  timesof  n^fv.inrui 
thaw  after  frpft,  the  iiqufe«  t>^'oi7ie4i9mp  by;|;h^  ftoafiia 
fweatingy  or  becomingrnimftj  a  fault  whu;h  tooly^caa,  be 
reouedicd  by  latbiog  the  walk  with  woo9l,..whichi»  tM  cafe- 
with,  the  mapfe*  Therp  are  oany  ^Uy  pUs  frpoa  th)^^  they 
make  excellent  bvicKs. 

The  grofs  rental  of  the  wiiok  pariih,  am9«]siU  nearly  ior 
ooetjiouiand  apd  feven  hundred  pooi^Sy  ipptydfagithe  fifiv* 
ings«.  Byt  tbi^  qofiveys  but  aa  impef  left  idea  of  wjbat  ^e 
yearly  rental  will  fooi^  be.  For  the  farm^  I^oncaity*  which 
cont^in9  abfittt  gvc  hnpdrisd  acre%  rents  only  at  ^^i^f  guin- 
Z9&X  V^^  tber^i^e  Qth^r  j^rni^  in,a  fimilar  (it^aKion.  The 
Doke  of  Athol's  tacks  h^ye  been  lately  Ut  tot  twenty  two  ^ 
yeara^  buf  th^  a\pft  pf  polonel  GrahsnnV  are  n^rly cfApired- 
The  deiiai^hed  part  of  the.pari(b)  which  riiat  ^^klong  the 
Grainp^Stf,  is  .nf>t  rematlpible  ^  for  any ,  thing  but  ita  Uve 
Hate  quarries^  lybi^i  ^hqugh  ne>tl>erib  Ui;ge/iior  fer  thin^  as 
the Eafdale  ila&es,  are  very  durable*  Theieate  tv^o*  kinds^ . 
a Ij^ht  and  darip  Mue  i  the  hd  is  genei:ally  preferred.' . 

'jfhe^  is'no^the;:  cbiuch  than  tlie  ^ftsUifited'Oae  ;  and 
th^rvarious  feds  of  fe^deiBi  bufgersi  relief*  and  iadepon« 
deii|:s^  .4o-nat.ai9out  to>  more  than  a  twentieth'  parti  of  Uhe 
parifl^^i  The  manfe- and  church  were  built  widilh  thofB- 
twenty  years  v  luad  .though  both  are  mote  elegant  thkn  the 
ordinary,  ones,  yet.  they  are  both-  too  fmall.  The^fttpend, 
eftiinating  the  .vi&ual  at  the  ufual  -eontef  lion,  is  fearce  iighty 
.  pounds  \  it  is  ptobabk»'however»  it  will  foon  be^  augmented. 
The^e  iwere  originally  three  chapeld' depending  on  the*Ab#> 
bacy  of  Scone»<with  a  glebe  anneaed  to  each»  but^ere 
fometime  after  the  ^Reformation  ereded  into  one  parifli, 
which  siftetwaids.tQok  its  name  from  thb  centrical :one« 
Red^rto^^i  -Twe^of  d>t  glebeoare:caDtiguoustb  tbe  pi^ 

'      fent 


ofRedgorton.  5313 

fcnt  martfi?,  attd  dtbgecher  may  meafiiir^  about  twelve  acres. 
The  Vifeont  Storrfiont/  noMT'Eari'rif  Mihsfictd,  5s  patron. 

"  The-  prtfent  Incumbent  was  fettled  in  1753.  His  immc-' 
<liatepfedeceflb¥'\ira3  George  Frafer,  r\&»  miniftcr  nt  Monei- 
dy,  who  fteceeded  to  George  Meclc,  whofc  prcdcccffoT  was* 
George  Blaky,  who  was  the  firft  miniftcr  fettled  aficr  tftc 
Revdtffiem,  and  fti^eeded  ——  Achtcrlotiny,  who  c^rr?ed  oiF 
att  the  public  itcords  \n  his  time,  as  well  as  diofc  that  were 
more  ^nciertt  \  and  fince,  no  account  of  the  ancient  poor *s 
funds  has  ever  been  recovered. 

The  herkors  of  this  parifli,  arc,  the  Diik*  of "  Athof,  Ix)td 
Methven,  Co1onV*l  Graham  of  BaTgowan,  andMrDrummond* 
of  Lbgiealmond;  none  of  whom  reGde. 

1%e'fiRid^"lor  mainttttntng  the  poof  are  fmail ;  they  arife 
chiefly  fmm  feat  rents  in  the  church,  the  weekly  collcGions, 
and  %  firtall  aiflefiinent  of  ten  or  fifteen  pounds  yearly,  thb 
oM-hidf  piiA  by  the  heritors, '  the  other  by  the  parifliioner^ 
The  poor*here  felddm  exceed  eight  or  ten  in  numl>er}  ^nd 
a  fum  not  exceeding  thirty  pounds  is  fufficient  for  their  fup- 
port,  as  well  as  for  defraying  all  the  expences  of  the  feffion 
clerk,  &c.  The  pocn-  get  from  two  to  fix  (hillings  monthly; 
and,  before  winter,  a  few  coals  and  cloaths  when  neeeflary. 
From  hsdf  of  the  oolle&ionsi  M^iich  the  Seffibn  is  allowed 
to'  difpofil  of  itt  pleafuns ;  the  money  from  the  mortcloths, 
and  the  fines,  the  poor  'children,  who  are  not  on  tlie 
parifli  fift,^  are  educated,  get  books  and  cloaths.  Whren 
any  extraordinary  cdlimhy  falls  out,  there  is  a  oblleditm 
made  for*  the  purpofe,' which  is  generally  liberal.'  There 
hare  been  nobeggans or  travelling  poor  here  for  th<^fe  thirty 
years,  qrey  finee  the  prefient  incumbent  wag 'fettled.  'Thefe  '' 
is  one>pirochial  fchool ;  the  fiifary  is  no  more  th^'oti^  h\m- 
dredi  merks  Scots  ;  the  .number  of  fchofars  is' from  flftyjto 
one  hundred.  Befides  this,  there  are  .t^o  private  fchook, 
•ne  at  Stanieyi  the  other  at  Cromwell  Park.  There  are 
'  4  A  a  thrco 


54^  Statistical  JccowU 

three  public  roacU  which  pais  thtough  this  pm(h»  and  v^ 
near  the  manfe :  the  great  road  fcam  Perth  to  Dunkeld^ 
\irhich  is  a  turnpike,  that  from  Dunkeld  to  fiaJgau(a9y  Stir- 
linjr,  &c ;  and  the  third  from  If crth  to  the  Weft  Highlands 
through  Glenalmond.  About  twenty  years  a^o,  the  an- 
nual wages  of  a  man-fervant,  ^txc  from  four  to,(ive  pounds^ 
np^v  from  fcvcn  to  ten ;  and  of  a  womap-feivant,  from 
thirty  to  forty  (hillings,  now  three  or  four,  pounds*  A.  day- 
labourer  then  thought  himfqlf  well  paid  with,  cpij^  pence, 
now  he  demands  one  (hilling,  and  can  (barce  be  hired  at 
any  rate.  The  picople  in  this  parKhf  are  vexy.  induftrioMS, 
unkfsit  be  (Irangersi  on  their  (irft  coming  from, ^i^^^^^p^^^ 
who  foon  acquire  the  decent  mannpcs  of  thjs  goi^itry.  Copr 
fiderable  attention  is  paid  to  the  morals  of  the  people  at  the 
public  workh,  particularly  a^  Loncarty^  where,  the  manu- 
fadures  have  been  eflabliilied  for  forty  years^  When  the 
young  folks  of  either  fex,  are  fufpe£led  of.  tpo  much  inti- 
macy, the  young  man  is  called  befprehis  mailer;^  and  if  he 
refufcs  to  marry  the  lais  he  profeiTes  ta  IofC;,  he  is.  immo 
diately  difmifTed  from  the  work  ;  but  if.  he.  nv^rrj^Sy  which 
is  generally  the  cafe^  he  gets  a.houfe  and. garden,  and,a  fmall 
complimeut  Tht  only  feuej  n^9flQ  ufe  of  h^ re  is^co^^.W^^clv 
they  either  bring  from  Pertb»  or  from  tbe  pits.  If;  the  la^ 
is  the  cafe^  they  fet  off  with  their  carriage. abput  n^idfiig^t, 
and  arrive  at  home  the  next  cvenyig.inthe.twiUgbt» 

'  General  Ohjervaiions. — I  (hall  cgnclude  thi§  hiftqry  w^va 
few  general  obfcrv.ations  refpefting  the. police  of  t{\c  couu- 
try,  and  the  improvement  of  the  livings  of  the  4<;rg7.io 
Scotland. 

If  the  gentry  could  be  induced  to  attend  the  v^qr^^ip  of 
the  eftabli{hed  church ;  if  the  churches,  were  rendered  m<}i:c 
comfortablci  and  the  roads  and  ay^ues  leading  tbe^cunto^ 


'Hccie  kq)t  d^eot  ajD^d  dgr^,p»3^blip  v^#iP-  would,  be  mQT,^ 
gtacraUy.attcndi^jJ*  the  <;qlle£j^9n^  fjOJ",  tljji.popE  >«ould  bQ.i|?r, 
areafeq,  ail'cflin^t^  reiuUt.rcd  uy^p^eflbfy.ui^ipjoft  <;ountr|^pa^ 
ri(hcs,  die  geatiempn  wou^d  t;kcrfi;by  bccor^^e  u\qt^  |^a|riotiC|| 
and  their  iiiflucnci&gfCHti^pDlfCgjpd*  HpA$rav;ei  lightly  they 
may  think  of  the.  prefent  Afleffments  for  the  maintenance  of 
the  poor,  whicli  will  every  day  incrcafe,  if  no  method  G mil ar 
to  liic  above  is  adopted,  they  will  foon  become  as  burdcn- 
fomc  ab  the  poor 'ft  rai;cb  in  England  ;  wliich  will  confequent- 
ly  lower  the  value  of  their  landt. 

It  the  Lc^illature  would  enlarge  the  glebes^  and  in  place 
of  fix,  -.Uiocate  to  the  clergy  twenty  or  thirty  .acres  of  land., 
it  \v.;uid  be  both  advaiUageous  to  the  mcumbent  and  ufeful 
<o  the  whple  country,  by„fctting  to  public  view  a  field  well 
cultivated^  and  that.at  no  greater  ex  pence  than  could  be  af- 
forded by  the  ordiiuiry  farmer.  But  till  this  can  be  obtain- 
ed, r/ight- not  thv  heritors  accomodate  their  minifters  with  a 
f^*w  acres  at  the  fame  rate  that  they  would  demand  from 
other:»i  without  chargingi  as  a  few  do,  an  extra  rent  oq  ac^^ 
«x>unt  of  tl>c  convenience,  Sec  ? 

To  obtaio  favour  in  thefe  refpe£ls  to  the  clergy  of  this 
church,  would  it  not  be  an  inducement,  that  the  prefent  in- 
cumbents would  pay,  a  little  more  attention  to  what  land  they 
already  poflefs,  and  join  with  thc.«/i/f  fome  degree  of  ele- 
gance ;  as  enlarging  their  gardens,  and  beftowing  fome  pain 3 
on  their  cultivation,  and,  where  the  fituation  of  the  manfe 
permits,  have  a  (mall  lawn  and  fhrubbery  around  the  houfo. 
It  would  be  no  great  expcnce  to  plant  an*  hundred  fruit 
trees  or  more,  which  in  a  few  ye'ars  would  become  profifa* 
ble.  I,  fpeak  not  from  theory,  but  from  my  own  expert 
cnce  I  kndw  a  neighbour,  who,  by  cnlarjjing  his  garden, 
iias  got  a  plbt  for  dntons  which  yields  him  from  five  to  ten 


54^  Statyikal  Adeount 

pounds  yearly,  and  that  without  any  other  expence  than 
ploughing  and  harrowing,  without  the  aid  of  the  fpade.  An- 
other felk  apples  to  the  amount  of  ten  (founds  and  upwards ; 
a  third  garden  roots  and  goofeberries  to  the  fame  amount. 
Why  fliottld  not  the  pxa£iice  be  general  i 


NUMBER 


>i 


4   . 


9/ KirkmAbreck.  S43 

*        •  '  ** 

...     NUMBER  XXVI. 

PARISH  OF  KIRKMABRECK. 

(Stewarttof  Kirkcudbright,  Presbytery  opWi€- 
TON,  AND  Synod  of  Galloway.) 

By  Alex.  Maclean,  Esq; 


Name,  Situation,  and  Extent. 


K 


kiRKMABRfiCKi  or  moTC  pTopcrlj  the  church  in  the  brake, 
if  exceedingly  defcriptive  of  the  place  in  which  the  church 
formerly  ftood ;  for  as  brake  fignifies  furze,  bramble,  thorns, 
heath,  fern,  &c.  fo,  not  only  the  particular  place  in  which 
the  church  ftood*,  but  alfo  many  other  places  in  the  parifli, 
are  incumbered  with  thofe  fubftances.  This  parifli,  which 
includes  part  of  the  ancient  parifli  of  Kirkdale,  is  8  miles  in 
length,  from  North  to  South,  and  about  4  miles  in  breadth 
from  £aft  to  Weft.     Bounded  by  the  parifli  of  Minnigaff  on 

the 

**  The  chwxh  was  removed  to  the  place  where  it  now  flnods  at  Creetovpk 
atoM  150  7eais  go ;  the  people  (kill  continue  to  bury  at  the  old  church.  ' 


544  Statifikal  Accotmt 

the  North,  Girthon  on  the  Eaft,  Anwoth  on  the  South,  anl 
the  rivers  Cree  and  Wigton  Bay,  on  the  Weft. 

Surface^  Soii^  and  Produce. — ^The  country  in  general  ha« 
rather  a  mountainous  appearance,  rifing  graduaHy  from  the 
fliore  the  whohe  length  of  the  ptrilh  j  yet  the  intfcrior  part  is, 
in  many  places,  intcrfc£led  with  rivulets,  valleys,  and  low- 
lan4>  which,  by  the  induftry  of  the  inhabitants,  and  being  in 
the  vicinity  of  fuch  inexhauftable  treafures  of  fea> (bells,  have 
been  rendered  very  fertile,  either  for  producing  crops  of 
grain,  or  for  {^allurage.  iThe  lands  on  the  banks  of  the  river 
Cree,  (which  forms  Wigton  Bay,  and  is  the  weftern  bounda- 
ry the  whole  length  of  the  parifh)  is  of  a  fuperior  quality, 
partly  of  a  clay,  and  partly  of  a  gravelly  foil,  and,  for  either 
tillage  or  gf afBng,  is  equal  to  any  land  in  the  South  of  Scot- 
femA  The  country  all  along  the  Bay  has  a  moft  delightful 
appearance,  the  great  military  road  running  along  the  coaft 
between  Gatehoufe  of  Fleet,  and  Newton-Douglafs,  k  one 
of  JtUe  moft  pleafant  ftagcs  in  Scotland,  the  whole  being  di- 
verfified  with  woods,  gentlemen's  feats,  and  beautiful  inclo- 
fures,  hills  gently  rifing  on  the  one  hand,  the  Bay  on  the  o- 
thcr,  lirtth  a  full  view  of  the  town,  and  great  part  of  the  fhirft 
of  Wigton.  on  the  oppofit^  fide  of  the  Bay,  and  the  Ifle  oF 
Man,  lying  out  in  »St  George's  Channel ;  fo  that,  for  variety 
of  objefJs,  fo  ^ell  fitted  to  pleafe  and  amuffc  the  fancy,  or  to 
elevate  and  expand  the  mind,  fuch  a  profpedl  is  feldom  to  be 
met  with.  The  mountainous  Jjarts  are  partly  green  and 
partly  covered  with  heath,  or  heather,  with  a  mixture  of 
grdfs  arid  hctbagi,  that  feeds  both  fheep  and  black  cattle  to- 
lerably well.  Thcfe  fheep,  which  are  of  the  black  faced  kind, 
and  of  the  fmall  breed,  are  generally  efteemed  excellent  mut» 
ton,  and  when  come  to  age,  the  wcdders  generally   weigh 

from 


tf  ^irkmabrec%.  545 

ittm  %  to  lolb.  per  quarter,  their  wool  generally  brings  from 
8  to  Tos.  per  '^K^nCy  26  lib.  rjigllfl*  to  tlie  ftone.  They  are 
all  bred  upon  the  land,  and  fold  off  when  they  come  .to  age, 
in  regular  rotation.  There  are  alfo  a  few  of  the  large  breed 
grafs'd  upon  the  low  land,  worth  from  18  to  25s.  Stcr.  The. 
black  cattle  arc  all  of  thitrue  Galloway  breed,  and  a  great  part 
of  tliem  not  inferior  to  any  in  the  country*  5  When  they  arc 
comctoa^e,they  generally  go  to  the  En;>lifh  markets.  The  hor- 
fes  are  moflly  all  of  the  draught  kind,  for  the  purpofe  of  farm- 
ing, only  a  few  kept  for  the  faddle  There  are  alfo  a  few 
goats,  but  that  kind  of  (lock  are  not  numerous,  the  whole ^ 
ftock  of  the  pariih  ftand  tlius  : 

Sheep  of  the  fmall  breed,  -  -  ItS^^ 

Ditto  of  the  large  breed,  ,        -  -  300 

Black  cattle,  -  -  -  1,600 

Horfee,  -  -  -  200 

'Goats,  -  -  -  -  560 

There  are  alfo  hogs  and  poultry  in  abundance,  for  the  ufe 
of  the  inhabitants.  This  part  of  the  country  alfo  yields  a 
'  plentiful  fource  of  amufement  to  the  Iportfman,  being  well 
flocked  with  groufe,  black  game,  partridge,  l^afcs,  and  wood- 
CQck  in  the  f<;afon.  The  black  game,  however,  have  of  late 
years  been  fcarce,  and  appears  to  be  ratlier  upon  the  de- 
cline. 

'  Agriadlture,  &c  — Thirty  years  ago  there  was  no  kind  of 
grain  exported  from  this  pariih,  but,  on  die  contrary,  im- 
portations was  fome  times  neccffary  for  the  fupport  of  the 
inhabitants.  Since  that  period  there  is  an  increafe  of  po- 
pulation of  about  400  fouls,  and  now  there  is  a  confiderablc 
quantity  of  oats,  bear,  barley,  and  pot;atoes,  exported  annual- 
ly. There  is  generally  between  900  and  1000  acres  in  til- 
.   Vol.  XV.  4  A  lage 

Me  h  common  to  fcU  iwo  years  old  beaili  at  fix  pouodi  or  fix  guineM. 


54^  Statiftical  Account 

lagCj  two  thirds  of  which  may  be  fown  with  oat8»  and  ttitf 
remainder  J  with  beari  barley^  potatoes,  and  a  few  acres  in 
turnip.  The  principal  manure  ufed  for  improving  land  b 
fea  fhetlsi  of  which  there  is  an  almoft  inezhauftable  qttanti*^ 
.ty,  not  only  within  the  high  water  mark  on  this  fide  of  Wig* 
ton  bay,  but  alfo  in  the  dry  land,  feyeral  hundred  yards 
from  the  (hore,  particularly  in  the  holms  of  i^aflencarie,  die 
property  of  Aleiandcr  Muir  ]Vf*Kenzie  Efq;  where  they  arc 
in  beds  from  four  to  ten  feet  deep  of  the  fined  {hells  ima« 
ginable,  without  almoft  any  mixture  of  fand.  As  there  can- 
not remain  a  doubt  but  that  thefe  (hells  have  been  thrown 
t6gether  and  left  there  by  the  tide,  fo  from  thefe  and  other 
foffile  marine  produ£iions,  found  both  on  this  and  the  other 
fide  of  the  bay,  it  is  evident^  that  the  tide  has  flowed  15  or 
16  feet  higher  on  this  coafti  at  that  period,  than  it  doth  at 
the  prefent.  Thefe  fhells  are  generally  fold  by  the  agents  of 
Mr  M'Kenzie  at  5d  per  tun,  ,25  tuns  of  which  is  fufficient 
for  an  acre  of  latid,  and  proves  a  cheap  and  excellent  ma- 
nure to  this  part  of  the  country,  and  is  confidered  much 
peferable  to  either  lime  or  marie.  But  the  advantages  of 
this  valuable  treafure  of  (hells  is  not  confined  to  this  part  of 
tRe  country  alone,  but  extends  round  50  or  60  miles  of  a- 
coaft  as  far  as  the  mull  of  Galloway,  where  they  are  fold  as 
high  as  3s.  6d.  per  tun.  Many  thoufand  tuns  of  thefe  (belli 
are  carried  off  annually,  by  a  number  of  veilels,  from  20  to 
60  tuns  burthen,  which  are  conftantly  employed  when  thef 
weather  wilF  permit,  in  carrying  ^cm  all  round  the  coaft, 
and  fome  times  even  to  the  Ifle  of  Man«  Thefe  (hells  have 
been  ufed  with  great  advantage  for  the  improvement  of  bar- 
ren heathy  land,  in  fo  much,  that  many  hundreds  of  acres 
in  this  pari{h,  originally  not  worth  more  than  28.  per  acre, 
have  been  made  worth  from  los.  to  158.  per  acre.  Yet 
Aisi  like  every  other  advantage  that  is  cafily  attaincdi  is  not 

duly 


of  Kirkmahreck.  547 

duly  prizecl  or  improven,  for  there  are  ftill  upwards  of  1000 
acres  of  land  in  the  pari(hj  which,  from  both  foil  and  climate, 
is  highly  capable  of  cultivation,  at  prefent  lying  in  a  (late  of 
nature,  covered  witl^  heath,  and  almoft  good  for  nothing. 
The  fault  here  refts  almoft  wholly  with  the  landlords,  who 
in  that  refped  are  in  a  great  meafure  blind  to  their  own  inte- 
reft ;  for  where  the  means  of  improvement  is  got  at  jTo  cheap 
a  rate,  and  the  dxftance  not  great  to  carry  it,  a  little  calcula- 
tion might  ferve  to  demonftrate,  that  on  nothing  could  they 
lay  out  their  money  to  fo  much  advantage ;  but  where  a  te- 
nant has  only  a  leafe  (or  nineteen  years,  and  perhaps  his  en- 
couragement not  gfeat  otherwifc,  it  cannot  be  cxpeAed  that 
he  ihould  lay  out  much  money  in  the  encIoGng  and  cultiva- 
tion of  barren  land*.  From  the  above  hint,  it  is  not  intend- 
ed to  throw  any  imputation  of  floth  or  inaf^ivity  upon  ei-« 
ther  landlord  or  tenant,  ^but  only  to  (how  that  a  great  dea) 
more  might  ftill  be  done  \)  for  there  are  feveral  farms  which 
now  pay  five  times  as  much  rent  as  they  did  thirty  years  a<^ 
go,  and  the  tenants  ftill  able  to  live  much  better  nn-  *^^^'- 
they  did  tljen.  There  are  in.  the  parifli  76  carts,  fix  of 
which  are  kept  for  hire,  and  the  reft  for  the  purpofes  of  farm-* 
ing  \  and  63  plows,  fome  of  the  Englifli,  and  fome  of  the  old 
4  A  ^  Scotch 

*  The  writer  of  the  aboY«  haTing  a  good*  deal  of  expaieuce  in  the  im- 
yrctyemeiit  pf  barren  heathy  land,  would  recommend  the  following  plan 
where  fuch  land  has  a  mofly  forfaoe,  and  of  a  very  ftiff  benty  foil.  Inftead 
•  of  frUowing,  which  is  the  common  pradice,  and  which  is  attended  with  » 
great  deal  of  labour  and  ;ezpcnce,  plow  up  the  land  in  winter  or  fpring ;  the 
fummer  following  give  it  a  flight  han owing,  to  prevent  the  manore  falling 
down  between  the  furrows,  after  which  fpread  the  manure  upon  it,  and  fo 
let  it  ly  for  at  leaft  one  year,  or,'  if  the  foil  is  very  ft  iff,  two  years,  before 
yon  put  a  plough  in  it.  You  will  then  find,  that  the  furface  is  quite  rotten,^ 
«nd  that  the  land  is  fit  for  a  crop  of  oats,  turnips,  &c. ;  and  that  by  giving 
it  time  to  ly  till  the  fur&ce  rot,  it  does  more  thafi  even  fallowing  cpiUd  dA 
U  fuch  land,  and  the  opence  nothing. 


548  StatiJ^aJ  Jetmmi 

Scotch  kind ;  and  where  the  laiul  has  been  cultivated,  Aej 
are  movUy  drawn  by  two  h^rfes*. 

Population. — ^In  Dr  Wcbftcr's  lift  in  I7S5^  the  numbers 
were  rated  at  858.  In  the  year  i764*thc  whole  population 
amounted  to  680  fouls,  of  which  the  Ferry-town  of  Crcc 
(now  Creetown)  then  contained  104.'  As  the  country  part 
of  the  puri(h  has  altered  very  little  in  point  of  population, 
fincc  that  period,  it  will  be  neceffary  to  (how  the  increafe 
that  has  been  in  Creetown  at  all  the  different  periods  (ince 
that  time. 


3" 


i5      Si;    ^ii   ft       j$     ^   ^ 

In  X  764,  Creetown  contsised  34  oo  84  104  4  or 

In  1774,  ditto        ,          ,  110  73  194  367  II  %      3' 

tn  1784  <l»tt0          .      '  .  145  88  354  44a  I J  36 
From  th«  ift  NoTcmber  1793 

to  ditto  T794  '83  rA%  409  3S^  >9  6    *3f 
lA  1794,  thft  whole  parilh  pa» 

riihconuint        •        •  aft^  149  83^  X088  a8  9    %1 

Caufes  9f  Popu!ation.^^-^Th.^  increafe  of  population,  not  on- 
ly in  this  place,  but  alfo  in  many  other  places  in  Scotland^ 
is  principally  owing  to  thefe  three  following  caufes  : 

I.  To  the  beneficial  efie£ts  of  inoculation  for  tlie  fmall- 
poz,  by  which  the  lives  of  numbers  of  children  are  prcieiv- 
ed  i  and,  general  as  the  pafkke  is  become^  yet,  ftitt  tikefcare 
many  of  thefe  little  innocents,  Aat  faD  nSifns  to  the  inat- 
tention, ftupidity,  and  fupcrftition  of  their  parents,  who  are 
fo  wedded  to  their  ancient  prejudices,  that  rather  than  part 
with  them,  they  will  conlign  over  half-a-dozen  fine  children 
to  tbe  ravages  of  this  terrible  difoi der,  ov,  perhs^s,  to  the 

gloomy  manfions  of  the  tomb. 

"2.  T<r 

'  t  Of  thf  33  children  that  died  in  Creetown  laft  jear^  la  dic4  of  the  fittal^' 


9*  To  the  improvement  of 'wafte  latids^  by  wluch  nuun* 
bers  9rc  employed  and  maiAtaiaed 

3*  To  the  recently  eftablifhed  brunches  of  manufactures* 
By  the  firft,  life  U  preferved,  and  by  tlK  two  laftj  emigra- 
uon  ^s  prevented. 

.  Air  and  Climate, — ^The  beft  proof  of  purity  of  the  air  and 
goodnefs  of  tlic  climate,  is  the  good  ftatc  of  health  general- 
ly enjoyed  by  the  inhabitants ;  they  being  feldom  fubjcdl  to 
agues,  fevers,  confumptions,  or  fuch  diforders  as  proceed 
from  a  corrupted  atmofphere*  The  rhtumatifm  is  the  only 
difordcr  that  feems  to  gain  ground,  and  moft  generally  com-, 
plained  of  Though  there  is  a  great  deal  of  rain  that  falls 
berc,  yet  the  air  is  confidcred  dry  and  healthy,  owing  to  the 
prater  being  fuddenly  carried  off  by  the  rapidity  of  the  rivu- 
leta  or  burns,  which  immediately  convey. it  agjiin  to  the  fca, 
there  being  no  fwamps  or  marihy  ground  in  this  part  of  the 
country. 

General  State  of  the  Pari/Ij, — The  ancient  valuation  of  th^ 
paiifh,  as  it  (lands  in  the  cefs  books  of  the  county,  is  3i99l« 
ID  s.  8d.  Scots.  The  real  rent  or  prefent  value  of  the 
land  is  2,750  1.  Sterling.  The  number  of  heritors  is  fifteen, 
of  whom  three  only  re  fide  in  the  parifli.  John  M'Cullocii, 
Efq;  of  Barholm,  (one  of  the  refiding  heritors,)  is  joint  pa- 
tron with  the  King.  Dr  John  Inglis,  the  prcfcnt  incum- 
bent is  a  married  man,  and  has  two  children,  a  fon  and  a 
dajighter,  and  had  been  fettled  fourteen  years.  The  former 
ftipend  was  (ixty  pounds  Sterling,  and  fpur  pounds  for  com« 
nunion  elements,  but  by  an  aogmeiitution  of  vifluai  lli^ 
pend,  obtained  in  the  year  1792,  the  prefent  living  is  worth 
•  hundred  guineas  per  annum,  independent  of  tlie  glebe  and 
m3nfe»  which  is  worth  25 1.  more>  and  is  placed  in  %  de- 
lightful 


S50  StatiJHcal  Account 

lightful  fituation  on  the  fide  of  the  bay,  about  a  mile  and  a 
half  below  Creetown-  The  church  and  manfe  are  both  in 
a  pretty  good  (late  of  repair.  There  are  very  few  diflenters 
hercs  only  three  feceders  and  two  cameronians  in  the  whole 
parifii ;  and  as  a  proof  of  the  health  and  good  morals  of  the 
people,  and  what  probably  contributes  in  fome  meafure  to 
both,  is,  that  there  is  neither  phyfician,  furgeon,  lawyer,  nor 
attorney  in  the  whol^  parifli.  The  poor's  funds  generally 
amount  to  about  35  L  per  annum,  which,  when  judicioufly 
applied,  fo  efFe£iualIy  relieves  the  wants  of  thofe  depending 
upon  the  public  charity,  (which  feldom  exceed  ten  in  num- 
ber,) that  there  has  not  been  one  inftance  of  a  native  of  this 
puriQi  going  out  of  it  as  a  (trolling  beggar,  for.  thefe  thirty 
years  paft.  The  fchoolmafter's  fallary  is  a  hundred  pound 
Scots,  independent  of  the  fchool  wages ;  but  befides  the 
public  fchool,  there  are  feveral  private  fchools  in  the  parifh. 

Price  of  Labour. -^W ages  here  are  generally  high.  Mafona 
and  joiners  have  from  i  s.  8d.  to  2  s.  per  day,  without  vie* 
tualf*  Taylors  and  (hoemakers,  from  8d.  to  lod.  with 
victuals.  An  experienced  man-fervant,  from  81.  to  pi.  per 
annum.  The  wages  of  women  fcrvants,  from  3  I.  to  4!. 
and  the  other  kinds  of  work  much  the  fame  in  proportion, 

jintiquities. — ^The  mod  memorable  place  of  antiquity  is 
called  Cairn-holy  or  the  Holy  Cairn,  from  a  tumulus  or  heap 
of  ftones,  (as  tradition  informs  us,)  raifed  over  the  grave  of 
King  Galdus.  Several  years  ago,  a  great  many  of  the  ftones 
were  carried  away  for  the  purpofe  of  building  houfes  and 
dykes,  when  there  were  difcovered  large  ftones  placed  to* 
gether  in  form  of  a  cheft  or  coffin  ;  but  the  roof  ftone  being 
of  fuch  prodigous  magnitude,  it  has  never  been  removed  to 
fee  what  it  contsdns.    This  memorable  tomb  ftands  in  the 

centrcj 


tf  Kirkmahreck.  551 

centre^  between  two  different  places,  at  about  a  hundred 
yards  diftance  from  it,  where  a  great  number  of  human  bo* 
dies  have  been  buried,  as  appears  from  the  number  of 
ftoncs  placed  upon  one  end  in  form  of  grave  ftones.  We 
are  told  by  feveral  of  the  Scottiih  writers,  that  Corbredus 
Caldus,  the  twenty  firft  king  of  the  Scots,  (a  yaliant  and 
good  king,)  was  the  firft  of  that  nation  who  dared  to  ad- 
vance his  enfigns  againft  the  Romans,  who,  under  Petilius 
Cerealis,  had  fubducd  the  Brigantes*,  and  foon  after 
proceeded  to  attempt  the  conqueft  of  this  country,  under 
Julius  Agricola,  who,  having  landed  upon  this  coaft,  de- . 
ftroyed  all  the  maritime  places,  and  afterwards  reduced  the 
Ifle  of  Man  ;  after  which,  he  returned,  and  after  many  a 
bloody  baule  with  the  Scots  and  Pidis,  about  the  year  A.  D. 
82,  he  fubdued  the  whole  of  the  kingdom  South  of  the  Tay. 
Hiftory  alfo  informs  us,  that  one  of  thefe  battles  was  fought 
at  the  river  Cree,  (which  ftill  retains  its  ancient  name,) 
wherein  the  Scots  were  overthrown,  but  no  mention  made  of 
the  flaughter  of  their  king }  on  the  contrary,  we  are  told  by 
Buchanan,  that  this  fame  King  Galdus  died  a  natural  death, 
after  a  glorious  reign  of  thirty  five  years.  We  are  alfo  in* 
formed  of  another  battle  fought  on  the  river  Cree,  about  the 
year  A.  D.  310,  wherein  the  Fi£ls  joined  the  Romans  un- 
der Maximus  their  general,  againft  the  Scots,  under  their 
king  Eugenius,  but  wherein  the  Scots  were  again  over- 
thrown. But  in  vain  do  we  develope  the  hiftory  of  thefe 
times  ;  owing  to  the  ambitious  policy  of  Edward  the  ift  of 
England,  a  veil  is  tlirown  over  them  which  can  never  be  re- 
moved. There  is  alfo  a  different  account  concerning  this 
place,  which  feems  to  be  founded  on  hiftory,  and  which 

deferves 

*  Biigantet,  the  ancient  inhabitaots  of  TorUhlrCi  Lancaihire,  Darham, 
Wefbiiocdaod  aad  Ciunberlaad. 


55*  StatrJHcal  Account 

Genres  attenttort.  '  About  the  year  of  our  Lord  1 1  jo,  it  ii 
faid  there  was  a  battle  fought  between  th^  Englifh  and 
ScotSy  on  den  quicken  Moor,  wherein  the  Scots  were  de- 
feated and  their  General  lolled,  and  that  the  Bifhop  of  Whi- 
thorn being  along  with  \vtm  in  the  engagement,  immediately 
aflumed  the  command;  but  his  troops  being  defeated,  imme* 
diately  fed  towards  the  (horc  to  their  boats,  but  being  over- 
taken by  die  enemy  at  Cairnhoty,  about  half  a  mile  from  the 
fhore,  the  btfhop^  with  many  other  gentlemen,  was  killed, 
and  waS'buried  here,  and  that  from  this  circumftance  it  waa 
called  the  Holy  Cairn,  the  bifhop  being  a  holy  man.  Cer- 
tain it  is,  that  on  the  very  place  where  the  battle  is  faid 
to  havie  been  fought,  tliere  is  a  large  tumulus  which  was 
opened  about  (5  years  ago  (the  ftones  being  carried  a- 
way  for  the  purpofe  of  building  dykes)  when  there  was  dif- 
covered  a  (tone  coffin,  or  ftones  placed  together  in  form  of  a 
coffin,  wherein  was  a  human  (keleton,  the  £cuH  and  the  great 
bones  aimoft  entire,  and  greatly  above  the  ordinary  fizcj  alfo^ 
an  am,  tontaining  fome  alhes,  and  an  earthen  pitcher :  the  tu- 
mulus is  called  Cairny  wanie,*  At  a  (mail  diftance  from  the 
above,  there  is  a  Druidical  temple,  or  a  Danith  encampment, 
but,  being  left  to  the  uncertainty  of  conje£l:ure,  (hall  not  ha- 
zard an  opinion  ;  there  are  alfo  feveral  other  tumuli  in  the 
pari(h,  that  have  never  .been  opened  There  arc  alfo  four 
fquare  towers  with  battlements,  which  feem  to  have  been 
intended  for  defence  :  tliey  are  all  placed  on  the  banks  of  the 
Cree. 

Mineral 

*  There  is  a  little  riTuUt  or  bum  that  runs  through  the  place  where  the 
b«tle  it  faid  to  have  help  fought,  that  ftill  retains  the  name  of  the  £ngUa&- 
«aa'«  Biu9, 


'  bf  KirkmabrecL  55  j 

Mineral  Springs* — ^Thcre  arc  feveral  mineral  fprmgs,  all  bf 

^hich  have  bfltn  beneficial  in  fonie  cafes  ;  one,  however^  oA 

the  lands  of  Pibki  which  feems  to  be  of  the  chalybeate 

kind,  feeras  particularly  adapted  for  remedying  weaknefles 

and  complaints  in  the  ftomach,  and  his  been  applied  to  by 

feme  individuals,  with  great  fuccefs. 

I 

FmL — ^The  principal  article  of  fuel  is  peat,  of  which  there 

aie  plenty  of  the  very  beft  quality ;  aifo  in  many  places  of 

thcb  pariflii  there  is  whins   and  brufhwood,  which    poor 

people  gather  for  fuel ;  and  as  there  arc  no  coal  but  what  is 

imported  from  other  places,  it  is  not  much  ufed  here* 

Frici  of  Prnftfiom. — Beef,  mutton,  and  Iamb,  generally 
(ell  for  aid.  or  3d*  per  lib. ;  oat  meal  from  aod  to  as. ;  but- 
ter 6A.  per  lib.  i  a  f at  goofe  as ;  a  hen  8d.  \  eggs  3d.  per 

dozen* 

Mifcellaneous  Objervations, — This  parifh  is  famous  for  granite 
ftone ;  as  a  proof  of  which,  Kirkdalehoufe,  built  by  the  late 
Sir  Samuel  Hannay,  of  Mochrum,  Bart,  is  well  worthy  of  the 
attention  of  travellers*  It  is  a  Urge  modern  building,  the 
out-fide  wholly  of  the  moil  beautiful  granite,  and  wrought 
off  to  fuch  perfe£lion,  as  is  faid  not  to  be  equalled  in  Britain. 
Admiral  Stewart  alfo  got  all  the  principal  ftones  here  for 
Gla^erton  houfe,  which  he  carried  acrofs.  the  Bay  in  boats, 
at  confiderablc  cxpence.  And  the  Biihop  of  Derry,  on  fee- 
ing the  houfc  of  Sir  Samuel  Hannay,  a  few  years  ago,  was  fo 
much  charmed  with  the  ftone,  that  he  immediately  co.ntradk- 
ed  with  the  fuperintendcnt  of  that  work,  for  building  the 
fpires  of  two  churches  in  his  diocefe,  which  were  all  to  be  ex- 
ecuted with  this  ftone ;.  accordingly  the  ftone  was  all  prepar- 
ed here,  and  afterwards  carried  over  to  Ireland,,  and  the  work 
Vol.  XV;  4  B  executed 


534  StaHJiical  AccBUra 

executed  much  to  his  Lord(hip*6  fatisfa£lton»  l|iottgh  it  gtttt 
expence.  The  higheft  mountain  in  this  pari(b»  or  perhaps 
in  the  South  of  Scotland,  viz.  Caimfmoori  is  one  entire  raafs 
of  granite»  the  altitude  of  which  has  never  been  afcertained^ 
but.  which  may  probably  be  between  3000  and  4000  feet  a- 
boYe  the  level  of  the  river  Cree.  This  mountain  is  alfo  fa- 
.mous  as  a  receptacle  for  foxes»  which  often  fpread  death  and 
deftru£lion  far  and  wide  among  t}>e  furrounding  flocks*  There 
are  alfo  appearances  of  lead  mines  in  feveral  places  of  the  pa- 
ri(h|  but  whioh  have  not  yet  been  attempted  with  fucceiik 

A  Defcriptkn  rf  Creetown  and  Wigton  ^/fy4— Creetownt 
(formerly  called  Ferry  Town  of  Cree,  from  the  ferry  or  paf- 
fage  boat  conftantly  kept  at  that  place)  has  advanced  tapidly 
within  thefe  30  yeais,  as  (hown  in  the  table  of  population, 
ind  was  lately  ere£led  into  a  burgh  of  baronyi  by  the  intereft 
of  the  proprietor  John  M'CulIoch,  Efq^  of  Barholmi  is  beau- 
tifully fituated  on  Wigton  Bay,  and  in  the  vicinity  of  a  plen- 
tiful cotlntry ;  of  late  there  h^s  bccrt  introduced  fome  branch- 
es of  cotton  (pinning,  by  which  about  thirty  people  are  daily 
employed;  there  is  alfo  a  pretty  extenfive  tann  work,«andalfo 
a  mill  for  making;  (hot  lead  ;  but  the  greateft  part  of  the  meA 
follow  a  (ea-faring  life,  feveral  of  whom,  both  in  the  prefent 
and  former  wars,  huvc  iervcd  in  the  navy.     There  are  a  con- 
fiderable  number  of  veflels  belonging  to  this  port,  of  from  20 
to  60  tons  burthen,  feveral  of  which  is  employed  in  carrying 
(hells,  and  others  in  the  coafting  trade ;  indeed,  its  advantages 
as  a  fea  port  may  one  day  be  the  means  of  making  it  an  opulent 
place.     The  inhabit«mts  in  general,  though  charitable  and 
humane,  yet  are  too  much  addi£ked  to  the  vices  with  which 
fuch  places  ftand  chargeable. 

Wigton  Bay,  as  I  mentioned  before,  is  formed  by  the  river 
Ovee  falling  into  St  George's  Channel,  and  is  navigable  for 

about 


^KirifMbreck.\  555 

^a^o^^  ^5  milcf*  It  is  about  3  miles  broad,  for  about  6  imles 
ff  om  its  entrance^  and  then  gradually  duninilhes  as  it  extends 
into  the  country,  and  divides  the  (hire  of  Wigton  from  the 
Stewarty  of  Slirkcudbright*  ihere  is  good  anchorage  ia 
feveral  places  of  the  Bay,  but  in  particular  a  little  bebw  Cree-> 
toun  (tlie  only  town  in  the  pari(h)  to  which  a  ihtp  of  506 
tons  may  come  and  ride  in  f.fety :  it  h  s  a  kind  of  foft  blue 
clay  bottom,  and  makes  a  very  life  harbour.  The  fiOieries, 
though  not  very  confiderable,  bre  yet  worth  mentioning ;  in' 
the  Spring  and  Summer  months,  there  are  a  good  many  fal- 
mon  taken,  and  in  the  Harveft  and  Winter,  there  are  a  con^ 
,fidcrable  quantity  of  whiting,  cod,  and  flowndcrs  got,  by 
means  of  what  the  people  call  coops,  or  large  creels,  fo  plac- 
ed in  the  water  that  the  fifli  run  into  them  as  the  tide  ebbs, 
and  arc  taken  out  at  low  vrater;  fo  that  with  thcfe,anda  few 
(heli  fiih,  which  is  alfo  got  in  the  Bay,  this  part  of  the  coui)- 
liry  is  generally  well  fupplied.  There  is  alfo  a  confiderabte 
iiuantity  of  fea  weed  got  upon  the  (hore,  (which  is  for  iho 
moft  part  flat  andfandyt  which  by  (bme  is  made  into  kelp, 
and  by  others  utftd  for  manure.  Much  more  might  have  been 
faid  of  the  advantages  of  this  as  a  maritime  place,  had  an 
abler  pen  been  employed  t9  defcribe  them^ 


NUMBER 


NUMBER  XXVn, 
PARISH  OF  BEDRULE. 

V 

JBy  the  Rev.  William  Browm,  Mnuster  oftbM 
Parijb. 


••— ^f«"'    I  i.   I  1 .1 


*t'. '  *    a*  I 


Situatlofty  Exitnty  &c- 


T. 


HE  parifli  of  Bedrule  19  fituated  in  the  centre  of  the 
county  of  Roxburghi  in  the  prefbytery  o^  Jedburgh,  and  fy« 
nod  of  Merfe  and  Tiviotdale  ;  and  is  in  length  from  I^octh 
to  South,  upwards  of  four  miles,  and  in  breadth  from  Esdlta 
Weft  between  two  and  three.  It  is  bounded  by  the  pari(b 
of  Jedburgh  on  the  £a(t,  by  Abbotrule  (now  annexed  to  Hob? 
(:irk  and  Southdean,  but  formerly  a  pendicle  of  Bedrule)  on 
-the  South,  by  Hobkirk  and  Cavers,  from  which  it  is,  for  the 
moft  part,  divided  by  the  Rule  on  the  Weft  ;  and  by  Minto 
and  Ancrum  on  the  North-Weft  and  North,  from  which  it 
is  feparated  by  the  Tiviot.  It  is  fomewhat  of  an  oval  figure, 
and  confifts,  at  prefent,  of  nearly  an  equal  quantity  of  arable^ 
pafture,  and  muir-land.  The  foil  is,  in  generaly  as  good  as 
II  tp  be  m^t  widi  in  moft  grounds  of  the  above  defcription : 

An<l^ 


§fBedrule.  557 

and,  as  the  foil,  fo  the  furface  and  climate  are  unequal, 
which,  indeed,  is  generally  the  cafe  over  the  county,  by  tho 
fudden  tranfitions  from  hill  to  dale.  The  lands  towards  the 
Rule  and  the  Tiviot,  arc,  thciefpre,  more  deep,  warm,  and 
fertile.  In  thofe  towards  the  hill  called  the  Dunian  *,  the 
foil  becomes  more  light,  thin,  and  barren ;  the  air  keen  and 
penetrating :  yet,  in  regard  to  the  foil,  there  happens  to  be 
a  remarkable  exception,  for,  on  the  fame  range  of  hill  to 
the  weftward,  oppofite  the  village  of  Bedrule,  there  is  an 
uncommonly  fine  and  deep  foil  i  and  in  the  above  grounds, 
where  the  foil  is  in  general  remarkably  deep,  there  is  alfo 
found  limeftone,  and  different  (Irata  of  clay  marie.  A  good  ' 
deal  of  the  land  in  that  part  of  the  parifh  is  at  prefent  rather 
Jpottti.  But,  as  it  is  a  gentle  declivity  from  the  fummit  of 
the  hill  to  the  banks  of  the  river,  it  might  be  the  more  ea- 
fily  rendered  dry  by  judicious  draining. 

Pmprietors  and  Tinants, — There  are  three  great,  and  fivt 
]c&  coniiderable  proprietors  in  the  psriih,  two  of  whom  u« 
(ually  refide.  There  are  nearly  the  fame  number  of  tenants, 
who  all  manage  their  farms  according  to  the  modern  practice 
of  hu&andry  \  and  one  of  them,  Mr  Brown,  the  tenant  of 
Newton,  a  farm  the  property  of  Thomas  Elliot  Ogilvic, 
JEfq;  of  Cheders,  has,  in  the  courfe  of  a,  few  years,  fliewn 
Jbow  much  may  be  done  by  improvement  in  this  pariih,  both 
for  the  advantage  of  the  tenant,  and  the  patrimonial  inteiefl 
^  the  proprietor,  Mr  Bell  younger  of  Mainflaws,  and 
the  tenant  of  Rewcaftle,  both  in  this  paiilfa,  appear  to  be  fol- 
lowing 

*  The  Dnnian  is  wkoUf  in  the  pariih  of  Sedrule ;  but  owing  pcriiaps  to, 
f^n  of  it  htvipg  been  for  fomc  time  pofTcfTed  by  the  tcn-nt  of  an  adjoining  ^ 
^nn  in  the  ppriih  of  Jedburgh,  the  author  of  the  Statiftical  account  thextfo( 
%M  hi^  led  to  fo^fe,  it  wu  partly  $tu9ted  in  that  paii^ 


55  '  Staii/lical  Account 

lowing  his  laudable  example,  and,  we  hope,  will  Itkewife 
acquire,  thereby,  confiderable  gain  to  themfelves,  and  merit, 
as  all  fuch  moil  defcrredly  do,  the  grateful  thanks  of  tfaetr 

country. 

Population  — ^The  return  to  Dr  Webfter  in  1755,  was  297 
fouls.  The  number  of  inhabitants  at  preftnt,  (1793)  is  a- 
bout  25':  ||.  Of  thefc  there  arc  127  males,  and  132  femaks. 
Under  lo  years  of  age  about  69.  Fmim  10  to  20  about  50. 
From  20  to  50  about  105.  From  50  to  70  about  i8.  From 
70  to  80  fix.     From  80  to  90  one. 

Weavers  6  ;  taylors  3  ;  Wrights  2;  gardeners  2  •-  blackfmiths 
2  ;  one  of  whom  not  only  accommodates  the  village  of  Bed- 
rule,  in  that  line,  but,  notwithdanding  his  local  dtfadvanta- 
gcs  of  diftance  from  materials,  and  efpecially  from  coal,  alfo 
employs  conftantly  a  number  of  hands  in  the  manufafiory 
of  nails,  whereby  this  part  of  the  country  has  been,  for  fomc 
time,  abundantly  and  well  fupplied  with  that  ufeful  article  *s 
and  the  neceflity  of  importing  it,  as  was  formerly  the  cafe, 
thereby  prevented,  money  kept  in  tlie  country,  and  people 
'  employed  at  home,  who  otherwife  would  probaUyhave  beca 
obliged  to  travel  to  a  diftance  in  fearch  of  their  bread  \  male 
fervanti  44  \  female  do*  (including  a  number  of  women  who 
axe  chiefly  employed  in  what  is  called  cut-work^  as  hoeing 
the  turnip,  making  the  hay,  reaping  the  haiveft,  removing 
the  corn  from  the  (tack  to  the  barn,  &c.)  48  }  journey mea 

nailers, 

I  It  may  be  proper  herft^alfo  to  inform  the  reader,  that  the  inhabitaiilt 
ef  Spittal,  Toner,  Dykes, and  Failca(Ue,'in  the  pariih  of  Cavers;  aod  Dovcs- 
haugh,  Doveihau};h. brae  head,  Wells,  Weft- lees,  Billerwell,  andBrch-hiD, 
in  the  pariih  of  Hobkirk,  are  much  nearer  the  church  of  Bedmie,  than  their 
own  paiifh  churches;  as  alfo  thofe  of  Fodderlee,  Fodderlee-bask  head,  and 
Fodder  lee  birfcs,  (which  are  fituatedin  the  pariih  of  Abbotrale,  formerly  » 
^dicle  of  Bcdrnle,)  now  iioited  to  Hobkirk. 


ofB^rulcs  S59 

tiailerS)  &c«  9  ;  poor  receiving  lupply  in  the  parifh  7  ;  wt  oi 
the  paiifii  ^*  ^ 

Live  Sioch* — ^There  ate  in  the  parifti,  of  work  and  fadcilc 
liorfes,  55  i  black  caitlc  200  5  of  thefe,  above  a  fcorc  are 
annually  fed  for  th^  butcher»>  befides  a  number  of  (hecp  and 
young  (lock,  moft  of  which  arc  brought  into  the  parifh  in 
the  winter  feafon,  from,  the  Highlands,  where  they  arc  graz- 
ed in  funimer,  it  having  now  become  a  general  pra£lice,  for 
the  fame,  tenant  to  occupy  farms  in  both  the  high  and  low 
part  of  the  country,  with  that  particular  view;  (heep  100 
fcorc,  moftly  of  the  Cheviot  breed ;  a  flock  of  the  common 
goats  of  this  country,  of  above  a  dozen,  and  alfo  a  few  of  the 
Weft  India  kind,  which  here  breed  and  thrive  well  \  fwinc 
40;  carts  18;  ploughs  18;  2  horfes  are  commonly  put  to 
one  plough,  and  Mr  Brown  ploughs  a  good  deal  with  oxen, 
2  alfo  going  in  one  plough,  and  without  a  driver,  the  fame 
as  horfes* 

Crops  and  manure  —There  are  fown  annually  in  the  parifh 
about  350  bolls  oats;  50  bolls  barley;  15  wheat;  30 
peafe ;  20  potatoes ;  and  of  late  a  few  acres  of  tares,  at  New- 
ton, which  are  mown  green,  and  given  to  the  horfes.  There 
have  been  ufually  fown  of  late' years,  about  100  acres  tur- 
nip ;  and  nearly  the  fame  quantity  in  artificial  grafijs. 
There  is  alfo  ufually  about  the  fame  quantity  in  what  ii  cal- 
led naked  fallow »  Lime  is  the  manure  chiefly  ufed  here  in 
the  improvement  of  land,  notwithftanding  the  diftance  from 
which  it  muft  be  brought,  and  confequently  the  expehce  at- 
tending it* 

Mills ^  &c. — ^There  is  a  corn  mill  and  a  bleach  field  in  tnC 
parifh,  both  upon  the  Rule,  and  at  a  (hort  diftaa:c  from  the 

villa^rfc 


560  Statistical  AccouM 

Tillage  of  Bedrule.  There  was  alfo  formerly  a  com  miH  on 
the  Tiviot,  near  Newton,  the  Rte  of  which,  in  confcquencc 
of  alterations  occafioned  by  floods  in  the  courfe  of  that  fi- 
ver, wirhin  thefe  40  years,  Is  now  fcarcely  dircemible.  Two 
orchards  :  One  dovecot ;  but  there  happens  alfo  to  be  three 
very  near  in  the  neighbourhood. 

\Rooix.*— The  crops  fuder  lefs  'frbm  the  beautiful 
and  ufeful  bird  the  pigeon,  than  from  'the  cfow  or  rook, 
which  fecms  to  increafc  in  number  with  improremcnt  in 
agriculture,  and  whicn,  as  the  pigeon,  not  only  devours  vaft 
quantities  of  grain,  but  alfo  dertroys  tne  potatoc  and  turnip, 
and  the  rj\o(i  hearty  and  luxuriant  roots  of  the  actincial 
grafles;  all  which^  if  not,  fo  injured,  feeni  to  thnvc^wcil 
m  this  part  of  the  country.  Might  it  not  be  proper,  there- 
fore, efpecially  for  the  Board  of  Agriculture,  fit  Uajt  (^  re* 
commeitd  the  obfervancc  of  an  old  law,  pafled  in  the  reign  of 
our  James  L  rcfpefting  thefe  very  deftruftive  birds'?'  For 
tbough,  wb|en.jkept  in  due  bo.unds^  thcj  are  >l^lieved  Xoht^ 
upon  the  whole^  rather  ufeful  tjian  hurtful,  by  alfo  devour- 
ing Augs  and  grubs,  &c.  more  concealed  cfiemies  of  the 
fruits  of  the,  earth  \  yet,  from  their  prefent  a{toni{hing4»um- 
hers,  and  their  feeming  yearly  more  •nd  n^orc  to  incTeafi;y 
there  certainly  never  were  ftrongcr  reafons,  than  at  prefent, 
in.  this -part  of  the  country,  for  the  enforcement  of  that  Jjiw, 
at  leaft,  till  their  numbers  be  again  rendered  moderate^  In- 
deed, did^fuch  an.  act  not  ajready  cxift,  the  reafons  fpr  it 
have  here  become  of  late  fo]  ft^ong  and  urgent,  as  to,  give 
pood-gronna  for  the  enactment  of  a.  law  to  that  effect.  As 
tne, act  13  iboft>.  and  may  not  be  generally  known,  we  deem 
^it  prfipcr  here  ta  infert  it.  .  .  • 

^^  Jamca  ift,  Parliament  ift,  <5.  19.     "  Of  bigging  of  ruikcs 
in  trees."     •^  Ilem^  For  thy  that  men  confidderis  that  ruikes 

biggand 


qfBedruU.  565 

^  bijrg^nd  in  ktrks  zairdes,  otchardes,  or  trees,  dpis  gnsatft 
^'  ikaith  upon  corpes :  It  is  ordained,  that  they  that  fik  tree« 
*^  perteinis  (Oy  lette  them  to  big»  and  fuflfer  on  na  wife  that 
'*  their  birdes  flie  away.  And  quhair  it  be  tainted  that  they 
'*  bigi  and  the  biriks  be  flowixii  and  the  neft  be  funden  in 
^'  the  trees  at  Beltane^  the  trees  fal  be  fairfaulted  to  the  Kinj^ 
''  (bot  gif  they  be  redeemed  fra  him,  throw  them  that  they 
**  firft  perteined  to,)  and  hewin  dowQe^  ap4  five  fchilling^ 
^'  to  the  Kingis  unlaw/* 

RenU^^Thc  valued  ntit  is  3475I.  I3«-  4d.  Scots.  Of  the 
Tfal  rent,  one  tenant  pays  about  570!.  Sterling,  another  a- 
bove  20olr  Sterling,  another  about  200I.  Sterling:  Two 
fmall  farms,  together  with  certain  lands,  poiTefled  by  tenants 
whofe  farms,  in  the  pariflies  of  Jedburgh,  Ancrum,  and 
Cavers,  adjoin  thereto,  may  be  rated  at  13PI.  Sterling* 
All  the  other  lands  in  the  parifli  are  In  the  natural  pofleffior^ 
of  the  proprietors. 

Pillages. — ^There  were  anciently  four  vi/lages  in  the  parifli, 
•which  are  now  much  decayed,  and  the  number  of  houfcs 
greatly  diminiflxed,  viz.  Bcdrulc  to  the  Weft,  Newton  to 
the  North-weft,  Rcwcaftle  to  the  North-caft,  and  Fulton  to 
the  South- weft,  from  the  centre  of  the  parish- 

Bedrule. — The  origin  of  the  name  of  BeJrule,  (by  the  peo- 
ple ufually  pronounced  Bcdae  Rule)  is  uncertain.  Wliat  feems 
moft  ptobable  is,  thiat  is  fignifies  the  feat  or  reftingpUce  oiRuU, 
or  Regulus^  probably  the  tutelar  Saint  of  the  parifti.  But 
whether  the  Saint,  or  the  ancient  family  of  Rule  (de  RuleJ, 
gave  name  to  the  river,  that  village  and  other  places  upon 
ks  banks ;  ^lox  bcGdes  Bedrule  there  are  in  the  neighbourhood 
the  town  O'Rule,  Hallrule,  and  Abbotrule)  or  whether  the 
Vol.  XV.  4  C  tiyc# 


j6i  Stattjiical  Account 

riTcr  derived  its  name  from  the  family  of  Rule,  or  from  St 
Rule,  is  uncertain ;  or,  perhaps,  from  the  rapidity  of  the 
ftream  (for  its  ftream  is  very  rapid)  it  fignifies  fiW,  (Holi) 
Bs  in  fome  old  papers  it  is  alfo  written.  Whether  any  of 
thefe  be  the  true  derivation  is  doubtful.  But^  it  is  mod  cer« 
tain,  that  the  chief  of  the  family  of  Turnbull^  a.  branch  of 
the  very  ancient  family  of  Rule,  had  his  principal  rcGdence 
%t  Bedrule  Cailie,  in  ancient  times,  a  ftrong  hold,  plcafantly 
Situated  behind  the  church,  on  the  bank  of  the  river  \  a  (Ttu* 
ation  equally  remarkable  for  profpeft,  for  fafety,  and  for 
beauty  y  from  the  fite  tof  which  (for  the  caftle  it(elf  was  de- 
moliQied  fome  time  ago}  though  its  ekvation  above  the  bed 
of  the  river  be  not  very  great,  are  fectt  diftin£Ny,  to  the 
North-weft,  the  moft  elevated  tops  of  fome  of  the  hills  by 
Ettrick  and  Yarrow,  and  the  Eildons  by  Melrofe  Abbey  \ 
fhc  Reid  Swyre  to  the  South-Eaft,  the  fource  of  the  Rcid 
and  the  Jed  taking  different  direflrions,  tlie  Reid  mixing 
with  the  waters  of  Tyne,  and  falling  into  the  fea  at  New- 
,  caftle ;  the  Jed,  with  thofc  of  the  Tiviot  and  Tweed,  which 
reach  the  fea  at  Berwick ;  and  South-weftw^rd,  the  fame 
frontier  tra£l  from  whence  the  Liddcl  derives  its  fourccj 
which,  after  uniting  with  the  Ewes  and  the  Eik,  falls  into 
the  Solway  Firth,  a  branch  of  the  Irifli  Sea.  The  View  it 
more  confined  towards  the  Eaft  and  the  Weft,  yet  the  tops 
of  the  Dunian  and  Ruberslaw  *  hills  in  the  hcighbourliobd, 
-were  fituations  moft  fuitable  in  martial  times,  by  the  Iighdng 
of  fires,  for  giving  the  alarm  to  the  dependents  and  friendt 
of  the  family,  either  for  the  purpofe  of  defence  or  atlack,  oi^ 
|he  fudden  approach  of  an  enemy. 

Nevffim. 

*  Height  of  the  Dunian  from  the  level  of  the  (ca,        •       xo^i  feet 
■  ■  Robcwiaw  -'  ■*  -  141^ 


4tfBidrnJe.  363 

•  Newion-^Wzs  anciently  the  property  of  a  family  of  the 
furname  of  Kcr,  who  appear  to  have  been  cariets  of  Femi- 
hirft.  There  was  alfo  a  houfe  of  ftrength  there,  now  like- 
wife  demoH(hed :  but  the  beautiful  avenues  of  venerable 
trees  ^'ftill  remaining,  befpeak  to  the  paffing  traveller  fome* 
thing  of  the  confequence  and  tafte  of  its  former  inhabit 
tants. 

J?fw^^iSr-^$ituate4  upon  a  more  elevated  ground,  than  c'« 
tber  Bi;drule.ox:  Newton»  is  confidered  by  fome  as  a  place  of 
great  antiquity.  Indeed,  it  is  faid,  however  unlikely  from 
its  preff^t  appearanceii  that  the  Courts  of  Judtce  were  ori- 
ginally hdd  there,  and  afterwards  removed  to  Jedburgh  The 
origin  of  the  iiamcj  and  whether  it  has  been  derived  from 
proprietors  of  the  furname  of  Rewcaftle,  or  whether  itmzj 
hay^  givetv-  the  furname  to  that  fatnilyt  i&  uncertain.  Be 
that  as  it  maf  >  both  furname  and  place  are  certsrinly  of  con* 
fiderable  antiquity* 

Fulton-^Hzs  now  fcarcely  any  veftiges  of  its  ancient  .confe- 
quence^ except  fome  r^npains  of  its  tower,  which  are  ilill 
ftandingi  and  fometimes  ufed  b^  the  tenant  as  a  i^ugbt  for 
his  fheep.  The  well  known  furname  Fulton,  corxefponds 
~  to  the  name  of  this  place ;  but  we  do  not  adventure  to  con- 
5e£^ure,  whjcther  there  have  been  any  connexion  between 
the  one  and  the  other ;  for  we  have  been  able,  as  yet,  to 
trace  lefs  of  its  hiftory,,  even  by  tradition,  than  any  of  th^ 
former. 

Encampments^ — There  are  plain  vcftigcs  of  a  regular  en- 
campment, on  an  elevated  ground,  almoft  at  an  equal  dif- 
tance  between  Bedrule  and  Newton.  From  its  figure, 
which  is  ftill  diftinft,  it  appears  to  have  been  Brltilh.    There 

4  C  a  '  i% 


564  Stait/tUat  jtscount 

is  another,  at  thediftant^  of  ^Vout  lifttf  i  mile  "^^Hbt  Ht^* 
Vard,  which,  from  ltd  fquare  figtitei '(«fM>'lo  taav^becii 
koman.  They  are  both  but  bf  fmaD  fize/ari^  o^capf  an 
area  nearly  of  the  famer  extent.  The  former  W  fiMMnded 
by  a  moand'of  eaith,  the  httbr  by^  irtoun^  ah&fdfiev 

Jlfiif#rtf//.— There  is  gteat  appearance  of  coal  in  the  lands 
of  Bednile ;  and  though  the  proprietor  made*  lateiy  to  at- 
tem)>t  to  dtfeotet  ft,  arid"vaSi  for  an  indki^idtfaly  btdotffider- 
abte  expenee  in  the  feafdi,  Mtf  Aeligk^  fhcf^  mtte  c<t«ua- 
]y  foine  th{n  'ftam?  fouttd^  yet,'  iti  tbeifite,  he  xMis  not  fo 
^TucceDsfol  as  hi»  UudM^e^  pttfivmirm  ^noft^jtlftly  Merited ; 
hotowhig,  a)s  is'ftm  fhoitifght,!  bfmf  i^eitetd^^Hf Uncer- 
tainty of  the  iympionVSy'btlttbifitigf^M;  6»i^^eb  df  th^  main 
■  fcam.  •  •       '»••'-     :v  ;.-    .;  :.  ,--1  /    .t-. 

Indeed^  an  attempt*'  of  thsft  natilM^  efpeciirilf  iii^a^iftrid 
vhere  coal  has  ktot  as  yetlMf^nilMciiva-ed,  tfetlnrinly^siight  ra- 
ther to  be  undertaken  upon  fuitable  4cdndidfiibs^.  ^hnibdcty, 
than  attennpted  by  an  indifidUal,  bowvrev  paorMiv  or  liberal 
hi^  fpirit,  utilef^'hift  fortune  be  vaft  itideed.  Nor,  it  any  rate, 
ought  the  eiperiment  to  be  tommitted  t^  the  management 
ItlFobfcure  Or  linfldtful  people,  ot  tonfined:io  afQioirfpaceof 
tivoltf  or  the  limits  of  one  rftate^iOT'parifhK  bttr,^ftcr'ino(t 
trardfal'examinairion,  ace&rdihg  tir  tbe'kdVke'of  fokntific  men, 
of  \vell  kno^M  abttky  ^nd  chat^li^thlemioftnliiLBlyfifpet  in 
iii  diftrift  dnght  to  be  pftched  npMrand'whormm^sbe  proba- 
ta tHai  ii  made,  moft  f«ricuayf(ef{|^dredin<.fSadhlufcheme 
%ou]d  be '  tiruly  patriotic,  Md  prpbabiy ^  in^^l^le  iflbe,  become 
no  Kft  gi^tftful  tiian  hommrable't90the''uwd8rtaheM^)aod  of 
'  tiAi^t«dtjd>le  adirantageto  the  ^^opikto^^^f  Mbe  linidfii^heie 
ifieti  happened  to  be^fom(f  fe  ^^eait  k  tMOTuney  and  titould  be 
lii^uilifirerfal  bldTmg  to^this  otbtfirift  ttatufall^iidttartd  bap- 
pf  ebimtry.       .        *  i '  ^•'.  .  -   .  ^  . 

Thcrt 


towuhftf  BIs^v^J^  at,  abw^T  %fn,  ffiiJlff,^a^pfj,  and  fomc* 
times  a  confideraUe  way  beyond  it« 

,  ^d^:^4.Sf^^Sf%<r7A>^»9^h  <>f  fh^fi^^ftt  '^o^d  &Ofn  Ion* 

4ailr)V^:E4M*««bff  aftjfi^^ifQPih,  the  ^tl^, part .  of^  the  pa* 

'  «Ak>   7h0  eK«t  i;^»]^|\i^i)   Qeil^ck  «n,d   C^lifle  di- 

>  TA^lsiiM  «0Hrfi$ jh^qugh  die, North  part  ,t)(e  ^ol^,  breadth 

irf  ^vpiriAR    rTOfr^^Wkd,.  Ae  vt)olc.way.acTofs  the  ifland, 

I  i9:,ar4IMrkab|c^|or,.]fapj^y  .i«\d  beauty » ..pairticuUzlj  sphere 

it  pkff^  ihro}^  ihif  .B9fci>(^  ^nd  neigbboufhpQd*    Indcsed^ 

every  where,  it  is  profenting  the  traveller  with  fceqe.s»  de- 

Hghtfiili  ntftr.  and  iolQrofttfig*^'   One  whU^  he  hss  an  ^xten- 

.'  fkV^.profpcifib  of  n  riab  aild  ifat>f:<»ed  coumrj,  oipft.of  ^  in 

ras'  high  a  Aatt  of  cultvration  as  pc^rha^fli  i| .  is  cap^b^of, 

i  theieby^iatthc  fantc4iEAe,  difplaying  the-ftiU  ^nd  induftry  o£ 

i^hsprofyeroils  inhabotants/;  the  fec«rity»  we^thi  and  fr-ecflom 

• '  of  :jdie  fiibjc6k  9  the  happy  effe£lbs  of  the  airts  of  peace,-  un- 

'   ifertthetj^rote^on  of  law  and  good  govfirnment;  and  ii^/^at 

'  ireif' country »  in  .fhofe  very  fielde,   which  &>rmeTLf^.Yere 

.fiUddirrkb'COnfelinfaiocfof  the  jarring  im^refts,.  diipi|ti;^and 

I  ;i{;iaffdlibf  two  Ug^piDCed  and  vrixHim  ^^UQ^9f  with  defoU- 

tion»icaniiigQ,  aiid)blQod|  by  thehaf^y  union  of  m!tiffh%  parti- 

^  dolarl^thieitaA>o(fmQtryy/iir,^MP«^;':i^iir^f:^^ 

\JhArc^.jt^ffiaar.ia^jlJ^,prfduitfg  Ano^cr  yrhilq,-;!^  he 

.  {thobhBl  and  i<lJi«o4fl^ii|^f'rQpk.ui4'tbc  Are^i  r^^^P  and 

'  ijJdme'prc^ntilEheniielnroir  att4  tbe.wetl^aid-^t^^it^^aP)  at 

d;^nfiihlM^.mdulhf  Mar  <9>pptce  of^  immmi^ii^Q^.O^ing 

the  banks,  and  hanging  over  thf  margin  o^^.^rf^pi--^ 

thcfc 


5W  Staii/lical  Account 

ibeie,  with  thelrvarious  inhabitants^  and  ftfll  more  diTerflfiied 
))y  other  t.muGng  and  intc^efting  (risjeAs,  ftMrm  fogcther« 
fucceffivc  groups  of  the  moft  various  add  picafiBg  of  rural 
iisenery.  Nor  will  the  veadcr  be  fury rtsed  at  this  <ldiDri(ition| 
when  he  b  informed,  that  this  deiigfatful  road,  direfihng  itt 
courfe  by  the  pleafant  towns  of  CoUftrcun,  Kelfoi  Hawick, 
Langholm^  and  Longtown,  conducts  the  traveller  often  u« 
pon  the  banks,  almbft  always  in  view,  of  the  charming  riv^ers, 
the  Tweed,  the  Tiviot,  the  Ewes,  and  the  Eft,  whbfe  pafto- 
ral  ftreams,  render  fo  dclij^htfiil  the  moft  beantiftil  part  of 
the  Arcadia  of  Scotland.  A  branch  of  the  fame  road,  lead- 
ing by  Jedburgh,  was  lately  made  through'this-parifli,  by 
wliich  a  mAil  pafles  three  times  a  week.  The  ftatute  labour 
is  Iicrc  commuted,  and  the  money  thereby  raifed  ufoalij 
laid  out  on  making  and  repairing  the  roads  in  the  parifh. 

There  are  two  bridges  in  the  {»arifli,  both  atrofs  the  Rule^ 
mie  near  the  viMage  of  Spittal,  on  the  great  road  before  meh- 
tioned,  between  Berwick  and  Carlifle,  confifting  of  twa 
archer  ;  the  other  confiding  of  one  large  arch,  on  the  rcmd 
from  Hawick  by  Bedrule  to  Jedburgh- 

if////. — ^The  Dunian  merits  particular  noticci  not  fo  much 
from  its  own  height  or  magnitude,  as  from  the  renorkabie 
£tuation  upon  which  it  (bnds ;  and,  though  rather  fmall  of 
kfelf,  and  diminiihing  in  its  apftearance,  the  nearer  one  ap- 
proaches it,  yet,  from  its  peculiar  fituation^  it  is  sdmoft  ۥ 
very  where  feen  from 'beyond  where  the  waters  begin  to  de» 
iceiid  to  the  weftern  (botes  of  the  iiland^  to  the  utmoft  boon- 
<iaFy  of  the  eaftern  coaft.  As,  in  ancient  timee,  ehunhes 
find  crofles  were  ufually  ere&cd  in  the  mod  oonfjHcuous  and 
elevated  fituations,  to  feach  die  eye  of  the  pious  traveller, 
or  perfons  in  diftxefs,  fo,  this  remarkaUe  hill,  {Dttmatt,  by 
^fe  acquainted  with  the.Gaelic  la^gu^ge,  being  iaidjto  fig- 

niff 


of  iedrulf.  56^ 

iii/y  yjiffs  HHf  might,  for  the  fame  Tcafon,  be  dedicated  to 
the  beloved  difcipl^  of  Chrift,  that  it  might  become  the  me- 
dium of  Ikfety  and  comfort  to  the  nomberlcfs  votaries  of 
the  £urottrite  difeiple  of  Jcfas,  in  jeopardy  cither  by  land  or 
by  wMXy  cfpccially  when  their  eye  could  not  catch  in  itf 
view  a  facred  fane-or  falutary  crucifix.  For,  notwithftand- 
ing  the  fmalinefs  of  its  Gee  ^  owing,  not  To  much  to  its  ele-^ 
'Yatibdi  as  ftriktngly  (>bf ious  Gtuation,  it  is  plainly  feen  almoft 
every  when  in  alt^  direfKons,  particularly  over  that  vaft  tradr 
of  oottnrry,  comprdbending  i^'hat  were  formerly  the  middle 
atid  caftem  nwrchei)  or  Axmtiars  of  the  two  kingdomsi  ex-^ 
tendin|  from  the  weftern  extremity  of  the  Reidfwyre,  to 
the  German  'oecttn,  aiki  overlooking,  in  a  fingularly  com* 
mand^g  profpef^,  an  immenfe  extent  of  claflical  ground, 
equally  celebrated  in  poetry  and  fbng,  as  it  is  memorable  in 
the  page  of  mairtial  hiftory.  For,  the  profpeft  from  this  re- 
markable eminence,  diflfereiit  from  that  from  the  fite  of  Bed- 
rule  caftle,  is  almoft  alike  open  to  afl  quarters.  Near,  and 
€aftward  below,  the  fpcftator  views,  as  it  were  in  a  bafon, 
the  town  of  Jedburgh,  much  aiftingolflicd  by  the  venerable 
ruins  of  its  formerly  rich  and  magnificent  abbey,  anciently 
the  pcatefttl  and  happy  retreat  of  Monks  of  the  order  of  St. 
Augwftin.  At  a  greater  diftance,  and  to  tlie  north  weft, 
and  on  the  oppofite  fide  of  the  filver  ftreamcd  Tiviot,  as  in 
an  amphitheatre,  opening  to  the  fouth,  the  eye  is  (truck 
with  the  pbin,  yet  elegant  modern  houfe  of  Minto,  wliicli, 
diougbTemaiiitaMe  for  hs  romantic  fituation,  is  greatly  mor;; 
diftinguiihed  ^s  the  birth  j>lace  of  eminent  patriotb,  ftatef- 
men  and  legiftators,  guardians  of  their  country.  To  the 
foutfa-eaft,  and  art"  ftillaferther  diftance,  apj!)ears  alto  t!rik- 
ingly  In  view,-  the  houfe  of  Edgtrftoni'equaHy  cTiftinguIfheJ 
for  the  'fidelity,  proWtfs,  and  loyally  of  its  inhabit;ints,  as 
it  is  nrnftrkable  for  its  having  continued  for  many  ages,  the 

feat 


568  StatiJHcal  Account 

feat  of  an  ancient  Scottifh  Baron,  the  neareft  to  the  EngUlh, 
now  the  Britiib  capital  \  and  thereby,  in  this  famous  Iflc, 
has  at  lad  become,  inftead  of  the  utmoft  barrier  of  the 
northern,  happily  the  centre  of  the  United  Kingdom.  Weft* 
ward,  he  Tiews,  from  its  fource,  the  beautiful  windings  of 
the  woody  Rule,  where  it  ifliies  in  three  ftreams  from  the 
lofty  mountains,  the  Not  O^  the  Gate,  Fana,  atid  Wind 
burgh,  to  where  its  rapidly  rolling  flood  mixes  with  the  Tl- 
▼iot,  oppofite  to  the  caftle  of  Fatlips,  which  is  moft  roman- 
tically fituated  north  of  that  river,  almoft  in  a  line  widi  the 
coiirfe  of  the  Rule,  on  the  fummit  of  the  eaftemmoft,  and 
moft  pidurefque  of  the  Minto  craigs  ;  hiUs  which,  for  fitua* 
tion  and  natural  beauty,  are  not  furpafled  by  any  in  this 
country* 

Poor. — ^The  indigent  here  ^re  chieHy  fi^iporttd  bf  ^ifieff- 
ment ;  a  method,  however  wdUintended,  andi !« the  i»efent 
ftate  of  fociety,  in  many  parts  of  the  country,,  perhaps  un- 
avoidable, is  dottbtlefs,  at  the  fame  time^  often  hurtful  to 
the  defervtng  poor,  to  humanity,  and  the  inteieft  of  thofe 
on  whom  the  burden  is  laid^  There  are  500  merks  which 
were  mortified  ^funk^  to  the  poor  of  the  biurony  of  Bedrulc 
1695,  ^7  ^il^>3^  Ramfay  in  Bedruk  miU>  and  Margaret 
Tuinbull,  his  wife ;  of  which  it  is  iaid,  (for  the  writer  ne- 
ver faw  the  deed  of  mortification  itfelf)  the  family  of  Ca- 
vers Carre  are  left  truftees*  Mrs  Mary  Ann  Stevea(bii»  re- 
link of  the  Rev.  Mr  James  Borland,  mortified  (funk)  xool* 
Scots  to  the  poor  of  this  parifli,  of  which,  in  the  account 
thereof,  in  the  parifii  record,  the  SeiEon  appear  to  have 
been  appointed  by  her  the  overfeers.  But,  with  the  deed 
of  mortification  itfelf,  if  ever  any  waa  executed  by  Mrs 
Borland,  the  writer  is  not  as  yet  acquainted.  The  latter 
fum,  with  other  monieS}  favings  of  the  Sci)ion  in  former 

tinici 


timeline  ftoeked  out  at  intttoft^i  m^iwOr^imv^  fvma^,  Ui< 

•^  ''  •■  '         ■    :.    .        '  '     ^»    •      ulfM    ,0     .1/1      ;«< 

ParocM  Rfgififr-'-rrT^ii^ircgfl^  ^Af\  ^^^^^  A^  children 
borf|>in  tbf^pariA^j  ^n^itobai^.b^qn  c^fuily  attended  t(f 
iiDni^..dKu.cw%ttepixpieat  of  th^  a^T?.  miiutjpned  jrecor 4 
i6gW\xu^  t)\e  eiiadip^t  pf  a  W(c  a^of  ParUanii^nt^.Uxing 
a  (hvril  Ml.  tbov^Qfi  f .  ^hi^Y-ay/diflfcrf  nt  frpm  jjic  pivpofe. 
tkeaabir  teMided»4llie .ppf r#|e^ .  aa .  9  prohiUtion.  For»  aU 
tfaoi^habe  tax  Jt>c  (diaU*,  9fid  doubtlefs  ;rifling  to  many,  Cf 
vcn  of  tbc-comvn^H'pqpple,  ^n  ^owns,  where  money  is  plcn- 
•fifmA  wag«6  jiighf  yet,  net  a  6vw  of  tlie  Ial^)^ring  poor» 
cipesiaUiycin/neiBflQ  purf s  <»f ^he  coanpry>  confider  it  ai>  hard  > 
aod|  therefore^  whatever  can  be  faid,  as  it  entirely  depends 
on  their  own  choice,  whether  they  have  their  childrens  names 
i«f!flarcl6a  )A  dlQi^Mi  Tegifter  or  uot^  do^  ino(i  of  thom^  ifi 
diis'^fKfa  It  iMfty'dfiboatiiiue  a  pia£MoQ  fa  neceffitty  in  fo- 
^iety^^Md)  oiDM^ia  n&fiit  and  intereftii^  10  indivtdaals  ^ 
and|  unfortuHatelyv  ffora  the  poverty  *of  cbe  -peopley  this 
ieems  to*be  mod  geftcfallythe  cafe  in  the  €oi^jUry>  where, 
diffc^irent  f ff^m  *  popotons  towns*  there  is  almod  no  other 
ftieafi!^  to  fttpp4y  that  -emiflion  ;  and,  imlackilyi  thofe  are 
tlic-.pr<^le)Wh€s'tiotwifrbftaiiding  their  mean  cIrcumAances, 
Ttfuilif  fear,  oK  their  fcanty  earnings,,  the  moft  numeiousy 
ttricorrlftpftdy  snd  hardy  ofispring;  and,  thereby,  happily 
<:o«rntera£l  the  bane&f  eflFe£ls  of  jdlencfsi  immorality,  and 
dHBpaftioti  in  Socitty.  Such,  therefore,  i^i  every  view,  are 
well«nlkled  to  have  their  childrens  births  recorded,  tliereby, 
not  only  tddifcover  the  changes,  refources,  and  ftreng^h  of 
•  thft  fisftion,  but  alio,  fo  far  as  to  themfelvee  or  poftcrity  fljiay 
t£  iliterefting  or  agreeable,  to  have  the  place. of  their  J[>irtl), 
'  tMr  age  and  memory,  preferved  on. record.  We  ihcrefm-c 
"^^^^oL.  XV;        ^  4  D  acQprd 


57^  Statijlicai  Account 

accord  with  the  author  of  the  Statiftical  Account  of  the  pa- 
rifti  of  who  fagi^efts  the  propriety  cf  pratit* 

ing  them  a  fmall  premium  for  doing  this,  rather  than  to  pre- 
vent them,  by  the  impofition  of  a  very  trifling,  And  eohfe- 
quently  unproduftivc  tax  ;  and,  were  this  the  cafe,  it  would 
certainly  fcem  neither  hard  nor  unrcafonable,  were  the  Lc* 
giflature  to  charge  with  a  tax,  all  thofc  who,  notwithftand- 
ing  fuch  indulgence  and  favour,  neglefk  to  acquit  fhem- 
felves  of  a  duty  fo  ncccffary,  both  to  their  chitdreii  and  fa- 
ciety. 

School, — The  fchool  mailer  has  what  it  calted  t  kgal  f ala- 
ry, which,  when  fixed  by  law,  as  the  mimmumj  was  a^fom  of 
confiderable  value,  but  now,  from  the  aftoniihing  change  on 
the  value  of  money,  is  a  forry  pittance  indeed.  As  they  arc 
moftly  the  children  of  poor  people  who  attend  him,  the 
wages  are  alfo  low,  and  he  has  nothing  now  allowed  him,  as 
he  formerly  had,  for  teaching  poor  fcbolars.  His  fchool- 
houfe*  is  almoft  a  ruin* 

JIfflw/?.— The  manfe  is  alfo  in  a  bad  ftatc  5  but,  as  it  has 
been  twice  condemned,  once  by  a  jury  of  tradefinen  appoint- 
ed by  the  presbytery,  according  to  law,  20th  June  1792; 
another  time,  by  a  fecond  jury  of  tradefmen,  by  order  of  the 
Court  of  Seffion,  mutually  chofen  by  the  heritors  and  pref- 
bytery,  26th  July  1793  v  it  is  to  be  re-built,  and  in  a  fitua- 
tion  more  dry  and  lefs  expoled  than  the  j>refent  one,  and  alf6 . 
.  at  a  fmall  diftance  from  the  church. 

Stipend^  &c. — The  living  of  Bedrule  was  originally,  what, 
according  to  our  law,  is  called  a  benefice.     The  whole  teinds 

in 

*  For  a,  fchoolmaftcr's  right  to  a  fchool- houfe  and  fiJary,  vid§  A  A  f . 
?arl.  1,  Cha.  I.    Aa  a6.  Scf.  6.  Pari  i,  K.  W. 


ofBedrule.  571 

di.tlie  parifli,  viz.  both  parfonage  and  vicarage,  having  per« 
lamed*  piem  jurt^  to  tlie  kirk  or  parfon.  And  this  wa$  the 
cafe,  not  only  before,  but  alfo  a  confiderable  time  after  the 
Reformation,  as  well  when  Prefbytcrian  church  government 
prevailed,  as  while  Epifcopacy  was  the  edabliihed  religion  o£ 
this  country*  But,  during  the  civil  wars,  a  confiderable 
change  ieems  to  have  taken  place,  by  no  means  favourable  to 
the  living*  Yet,  notwithftandiog,  the  miniiler,  till  lately, 
had.  right  by  a  decreet  of  locality  of  ftipend,  paiTed  19th  Feb- 
ruary 1662,  to  400I.  Scotch  money,  and  35  merks  for  fur* 
niihing  communion-elements,  with  3  chalders,  5  bolls  and 
odds  vidlual,  and  th«S  whole  vicarage  teinds,  ipfi  corpora^  of 
the  baronies  of  Bedruie,  Rev^caftle,  and  Knowfouth,  in  lieu 

.-of  ajSnall  additional  fiun  of  money,  aUb  allowed  for  furniOi- 
ing  elements,  and  an  additional  quantity  of  victual,  contain- 
ed in  a  decreet  of  modification  of  (lipend,  dated  13th  Feb- 
xuavy  i>65«>Qci  which  faid  decreet  of  locality  was  founded. 

.But  by  a  late  modification,  the  ftipend  is  conGdecably  altered, 
of  which  the  writer  is,  as  yet,  unable  to  give  a  full  account. 
Jofcph  Hume,  Efq;  of  Ninewells,  in  Berwickfliire,  is  patron 
of  the  parifli. 

rhe  gMf^y  in  an  inllrument  taken  by  Mr  Hc.-.ry  Ellot, 

m]nVitt'oi  Dedrule,  as  hr  back  as  3d  June  1640,  in  the  lan- 

' "    ■  4  D  a  guagc 

•  E»ch^ Uodward  nunificr»  by  aA  ii8,  Parliament  la.  Jamet  Vf,  jth  June 
1591,  (Wcfidcs  hi«  ftipcnd,  &c.)  is  entitled  to  4  acres  Scotch,  equal  to  5  acrci 
En^lifh,  oTtfie  be{l  arable  or  injield  kirk-}and  in  the  parifh,  contigaous  or 
Deareft  to  the  church,  over  and  above  what  is  occupied  by  his  manfe,  officet, 
|rarden,  and  (lack-yard,  for  which  there  is  ufually  alligncd  half  an  acre  ;  and 
by  A6k  ych,  Pirllamenc  iSih,  James  VI.  9th  July  1606,  if  there  be  no  kirk 
lands  cf  that  deftrlption' in  the  parilh,  near  to  the  chuich,  as  from  faid  ad); 
9ppenrs  to  have  ^een  the  cafe  in  a  number  of  parlihcs  in  the  kingdom  ac 
ihat  time,  particularly  on  the  borders,  and  in  the  Highlands,  to  have  the 
wliole  or  wbiccvcr  was  rendered  thereby  deficient,  made  up  of  kirk  land 


57^  Stati/lical  Account 

guage  of  thofe  thnes,  dcTigned,  the  nohoU  glJ>e  and  Uri/anJj^ 
has  been  a  good  deal  ameliorated  by  former  incumbents, 
though  much  ftill  remains  to  be  dooe.  The  progrefs 
they  have  made  in  clearing  it  of  immenfe  quantities  of 
granite  or  whin  Hones,  with  which,  notwitbftanding  all 
that  has  been  done,  it  ftill  abounds,  is  the  (mcrft  effen-* 
tial  and  durable  improvement  that  has  been  made*  For 
though,  in  its 'original  ftate,  it  iliight  be  judged  equal  m 
rahie  to.  4  acres  Scotch,  (;  acres  £ngU(h,)  of  good  ara^ 
ble  Und,  yet,  from  their  improvements,  and  the  extent  of  its 
furface,  which,  with  the  bed  of  the  river,  that  partly  inter- 
fe£ls  it,  and  a  deep  bank  occupied  by  wood,  f  all  taken  to* 

gether 

Mfjtcid^  fufficiene  to  pafture  four,^«aj,in  lieu  of  each  acre  arable,  to  which 
he  was  otherwife  entitled,  being  deiigned  him.  Fronx.tbis,  at  well  as  from 
other  caufes,  parti^larly  on  the  borders  and  in  the  HighlandJ,  it  happen* 
^  that  fome  glebes  are  of  greater  extent  than  others,  indepeodcot  of  gxafa  fnfi- 
cient  to  pafture  one  horfe  and  two  cows  being  affigoed  twtttAmg  to  aA  24th« 
Parliament  id,  Charles  II.  1663,  to  which,  notwithilaoding,  by  laid  a^,  the 
miniders  of  thcfe  parilhes  are  alfo  entitled  :  Ttids  Mackenzie**  obfervatioos 
on  ad  17th,  Parliament  i8th,  James  VI.  And,  therefore,  from  the  difference 
of  the  ability  and  pains  of  iocambents  in  improving  fnch  glebes,  as  wdl  as  from 
thetr  fize  and'tbe  natuie  of  their  foil,  obviouily  proceeds  the  difference  of  their 
T^ae.  Hence  the  importance  pf  adopting  forat  reafonable  plan,  as  has  been 
often  fuggefted,  the  more  efiedually  to  excite  all  minifters,  who  are  able,  to 
do  fo,  without  prejudice  or  lofs  to  thofe  who  do  it,  their  families  or  heir;!,  on 
the  event  of  their  removal  or  death.  By  this  mean^t,  though  fucceflbrs  were 
bound  to  make  a  reafonable  aflowance  for  important  and  durable  improve- 
ments, at  the  fight  of  arbiters  chofen  by  the  parties,  the  livings  would  be  be> 
nefitedf  while  none  concerned  could  be  any  way  injured. 

•  As  **  theghle  and  iirk  land  of  the  ktrk  of  JtdSurgb*'  vidk  £ud  record,  15th 
March  fame  year ;  vide  alfo  chap.  61.  Par.  5.  James  VI.;  chap.  10.  Par.  a). 
James  VI. 

f  Though  the  miniller  had  been  in  ufe  to  cut  the  wood  on  his  glebe,  yet 
the  heritors  of  Be'drulc,  foon  after  the  admiffion  of  Mr  George  Dickfop, 
^ueftioned  his  right  to  do  fo,  who,  when  the  caufe  was  tried  in  the  Court 
of  3cflion»  obtained  a  decreet  in  fovoar  of  his  titk|  paiTcd  jotb  July  X7S4* 


nf  Bedrule.  473 

gethef)  may  contain  an  area  of  near  three  times  that  quan# 
tity }  it  is  now  of  greater  value,  and  might  be  rendered  ftiil 
more  fo,  were  it  compleatly  cleared  of  earthfaft  (loned,  an4 
property  drained  and  inclofed. 

The  miniAer  has  neither  hU  ^fiums  grafiy  as  fome  of  hit 
predeceflore  appear  to  have  had,  nor  any  alk>wance  for  them^ 
that  he  knows  of. 

There  was  formerly  a  large  common  in  the  pariQi,  on 
which,  by  ufe  and  wont,  he  had  right  to  pofture,  Ac.     h 

was 

^7  Lord  Dnimorcy  Ordinary  on  the  bills.  In  confe^uence  of  which,  the  mi- 
nifter  is  in  the  pra<ftice,  as  he  hat  always  been,  of  difpodog  of  the  wood  on 
his  glebe  Kke  any  other  crop,  according  as  he  judges  pioper,  without  any 
nolcAation  or  interfeicnce  W(bate?er. 

*  In  ancient  times,  when  it  was  necelTary  to  unite  the  people  as  dofe  as 
poilible  by  a  common  interefl  for  their  common  defence,  and  in  defence  of 
their  ^conntry,  it  was  cnllomary  for  the  landcaHed  infield  or  arable,  to  be  lieli 
«nd  occupied  by  proprietors  and  tenants,  in  what  was  caUed  nmri^,  each,  a» 
his  property  was  (hull  or  great,  having  been  thereby  able  to  roum  and  fod* 
der  in  winter,  a  nombet  of  cattle  in  proportion  to  the  quantity  of  his  arable 
lan4.  And,  for  the  fame  reafon,  it  feems  probable,  that  the  bnd  MtfieU,  \m 
many  places,  was  occupied  in  common,  each  proprietor  or  tenant,  in  a  cer- 
tain diftri<%,  pariih,  or  eftate,  having  been  thereby  entitled  to  fium  orpadure 
on  the  outfield  land  in  fuoimcr,  in  proportion  to  the  ihimber  and  kinds  of 
cattje  he  was  thus  able  to  roum  or  fodder  in  winter,  by  means  of  his  (hare  of 
infield»lan^^ 

Afomm  is  faid  to  have  confifted  of  about  ten  (heep  or  one  cow,  a  horfe  hav- 
ingbeen  confidered  as  equal  to  tv/ofoumi. 

The  msnifter  of  every  landward  parifli,  has,  by  law,  AA  14.  ParU  I.  Clia, 
II.  1663,  beitdes  what  is  ufually  called  his  arable  glebe,  as  above  mentioned^ 
alfo  right  to  grafs  or  ^raxing  ioT  one  horfc  and  two  cows ;  or  to  have  a  fufii- 
cicnt  quantity  of  fuitablc  land,  near  the  church,  laid  off  fur  that  purpofc ;  or  to 
have  oc  L  Scots  paid  him  annually  in  lieu  thereof,  a  fum,  at  that  time,  fully 
equivalent  thereto,  or  temporal  land  dcCgned:  For  though  Adl  31  Pari.  1644, 
refpciSing an  arable  glebe;  and  Aft  45.  PaiL  1649,  rcfpcd^ing  grafs,  wei-c 
repealed  by  Ad  rcfdifory ;  yet  the  above  mentioned  A6b  24.  Pari.  f.  t:bh.  \U 
b66j,  was  certainly  hieant  tofcrve  all  the  pnipofes  of  faid  ai&s,  iaf^rour 
«f  tb«  c&abliihed  ckrgy; 


574  Statijlical  Account 

vas  divided  9th  Sqitember  1696,  without  any  (hare  bcui{ 
laid  off  to  the  mintfter  in  lieu  tkerecf •  Againft  thefe  dib- 
pidatioiMy  the  then  incunriienty  Mr  James  Bodaad*  as  mi- 
nifter  of  Bedrulei  protefted,.  in  his  own  name,  and  in  name 
of  his  fncceflbrs  in  office^  mnufters  there ;  and  this  he  did 
on  the  ground,  and  at  the  time,  when  the  heriton  were  t>o> 
copied  with  their  arbiters  in  dividing  the  fassc ;  and,  there* 
upon,  t6ok  inftruments  in  the  hands  of  Thomas  Granftoun, 
notar  public,  in  prefende  of  fundry  witnefles,  as  a  copy  of 
faid  inftrument,  now  before  the  writer,  more  fully  (hews. 
But  Mr  Borland,  having  been  then  advanced  in  life,  feems 
to  have  done  this  merely  to  exonerate  himfelf,  and  to  pre- 
ferve,  as  well  as  he  could,  a  right  to  any  6i  his  fucceflbrs, 
who  might  think  it  expedient,  fully  to  profecute  it :  *'  For, 
the  law  has  ordained,  that  the  minifter  or  parfon,  qiuttenus 
par/on^  never  dies,  but  he  and  his  fuccefTors  ^a^e  viewed  in 
a  corporate  capacity.  Hence,  all  the  original  rightf  oi  the 
parfonage  are,  in  the  eye  of  the  law,  preferred  entire  and 
inviolate  to  the  fucceflbr.  The  prefcnt  incumbent  and  his 
predcccffor,  who  lived  a  century  or  more'  ago,  arej  in  law, 
one  iand  the  fame  perfon  ;  what  was  the  right  of  the  qne,  is 
ftill  the  right  of  the  other."  There  was  likewifc  a  fmall 
common  near  the  church  called  Gourlaj  Bog^  on  which  the 
miniftcr  of  Bedrule  was  alfo  in  ufe  to  paflure,  and,  like  the 
former,  was  divided,  but  at  a  later  period,  without  any  part 
thereof  being  afligncd  him,  or  any  indemniBcation,  as  yet 
made  for  the  lofs  the  living  thereby  fuftained.  He  has 
riglit  to  caft  10  darg  %  of  iurf\\  annually,  viz.  6  on  the  muiij 
of  Fulton,  Corfcleugh  and  Bedrule  \  1  on  Newton  Muiri 
aud  2  on  Rewcaille  Muir.     Indeed,  as  coals  are  at  a  yerj 

gtc4 

\  A  imri  of  turf  it  at  maoy  at  can  be  caft  with  one  fpade  in  one  day. 
I  For  a  miaifter't  right  xa  foci,  &c.  add  all  other  privikgeii  aeeofdi^ 
t9  ttfe  a&4  wsnt,  mk  chap.  165.  Pari.  13.  James  6tb,  axft  Jtdy  IJIfg- 


iffBedruJe.  575 

freat  diftance;  and  tha  rotdsi  ttU  mi  liaite  turnptloes  were 
nuhde,  a  great  part  .of  die  Tear  almoft  impaffible )  and  no 
pe^t  in  the  pattifay  it  fecms  probable^  that  tnrf,  which  if 
here»  ingenerai^  temaikably  good)  was  the  fuel  chiefly  nfed 
in  former  times  But  now  that  coals  are  attainable,  though, 
owing  to  the  great  diftance  they  are  brought,  and  to  toll- 
bars  on  .the  road,  very  expeniive ;  even  the  pooreft  people 
in  the  pariCb,  ufe  a  few  of  them. 

ChurcL — The  antiquity  of  the  church,  we  arc  as  yet  un- 
able to  trace  ;  but,  from  its  figure  and  conftrudion,  it  (eems 
to  have  been  built  in  thofe  times,  when  the  conditution  of 
men  was  greatly  more  ftrong  than  it  is  at  prefent  j  for,  ac- 
cording to  the  cuftom  of  our  hardy  forefathers,  it  is  partly 
below  ground,  and  the  windows,  or  rather  flits,  are  not  made 
to  open  and  ihut,  by  which  the  air  is  unavoidably  affe£led, 
and  rendered  fomewhat  like  that  in  a  family  vault  or  damp 
cellar.  The  Whole  fabric  is  much  decayed,  and  has  been,  for 
a  confiderable  time,  in  a  ruinous  ftate. 

Notwithftanding  our  other  improvements,  we  are  extreme- 
ly forry  we  have  to  regret  the  bad  ftate  of  many  of  our  parifh 
churcheSi  and  that  thereby  fo  little  encouragement  is  given 
to  the  people  to  attend  public  worfliip  there,  where  it  is  o\>- 
vioufly  the  intcreft,  as  well  as  the  bounden  duty  of  the  teach- 
er to  initru£t  them  to  fear  God,  to  lu>nour  the  King,  to  obey 
the  good  Laws,  to  rcfpeft  and  revere  the  happy  Conditu- 
tion of  their  country,  and  to  pray  that  thereby  liberty  ani 
^ace  may  not  only  be  enjoyed  by  them  in  ihcii  days,  but  al- 
^o  conveyed  full  and  entire  to  their  children,  and,  by  the  fame 
luppy  and  liberal  means,  tranfmitted  unimpaired  to  the  lated 
j^fterity.  We  are  the  more  particular  on  this  head,  for  the 
information  of  Jirangers  $ ,  many  of  whom,  we  undcr(land» 

'form, 
S  It  maj  be  proper  here  M>  to  inform  ftraosen,  that  the  EOabMihed 

Clergy 


57^  Statistical  Account 

form  an  unfavourable  opinion  of  dte  reiigion,  people,  and 
clergy  of  this  country  on  that  account ;  aSi  with  the  greateft 
juftice,  we  are  able  to  aflure  tliem,  that  the  bad,  and  indeed 
very  indecent  (late  in  which  they  find  many  of  the  parifii 

churches 

Clergy  of  ScothmH  are  fupported  by  a  fmall  part  of  the  anctcnt  patrimonj  of 
the  naiioiral  church,  the  remainder  thereof  beinjr  moflly  in  the  pofieOion  of 
lay  titulars  or  impropriators,  whereby,  properly  fpealiing,  the  public  can  be  ud- 
dedlood  no  more  to  concribore  to  the  maintenance  of  the  EftabliAed  Cleifr, 
than  to  that  of  thefc  lay  ttt»ilars,ot  impropriacori  of  the  patrimony  of  the  charcfa. 
Theieforc,  by  onr  law,  when  at  is  judged  neccflary,  from  the  ehangc  on  the 
tuIdc  of  money,  «r  any  other  obTiout  tod  onerous  cauie,  for  the  court i>f  teindf, 
vhich  was  originally  a  committee  of  the  Parliament  of  Scotland,  to  grant 
what  is  called  ao  augmentation,  or,  more  properly  fpcaking,  to  bring  the  mi- 
nifter's  prefcnt  (lipend  fomewhat  nearer  to  its  original  value,  they  can  have 
lecoarfe  to  thefc  funds  only ;  and  no  landholders  ior  others  are  alTc  Acd  either 
with  fiipend,  or  what  it  called  augmentatioa  of  dipend,  but  only  fo  far  ai 
they  are  proven  to  be  poffirfTed  of  them ;  and  though  the  fmaN  remains  of  the 
patrimony  of  the  church,  that  are  ftill  referved  by  the  ConHitution  for  thdb 
purpofes,  were,  by  law,  alfo  fecularlzed,  and  either  applied  for  the  lightening 
of  the  taxes,  or  granted,  by  royal  favour,  as  the  reft  have  been,  to  individual^ 
for  fervices  real  or  fuppofcd,  this  would  not  diminilb,  but,  perhaps,  rather  ith 
creafe  the  burden  on  thofe  on  whom  it  prefeotly  lies,  who  can  pretend  at 
right  thereto,  more  than  they  can  to  the  old  church  lands^  or  free  teinda  ho- 
ritably  poflciTed  by  others, or  the  free  teinds  of  their  own  eftaces,  which  they, 
their  ancedors,  or  authors,  have  neither  obtained  by  favour  from  the  Crown, 
nor  as  ytn  purchafed,  according  to  law,  from  their  lay  Himiars,  or  impro- 
prlaton.  As  the  feculariz^tion  of  thefe  funds,  when  underftood,  in  poiit 
of  intereft,  is  little  to  be  desired- by  heritors,  fo  alfo,  if  they  view  the 
matter  properly,  as  lictle  by  the  commonalty,'  not  even  by  Diflcnten 
ihemfelve!* ;  and,  we  believe,  is  really  ferioufiy  defired  by  few  who  have 
a  fincere  regard  fur  the  good  of  their  country  :  becaufe  we  know  of  noj^taet 
•f  Chnjilantiy  it  would  not  be  obviooily  the  intereft  of  fociety  to  be  the  Efta- 
MiOicd  Religion,  rather  than  tnm ;  for,  however  in  fpecuhtive  pOtitts  tbejr 
may  differ,  and,  in  thefe,  often  mofe  in  words  than  ideas,  in  their  regard  far 
fnonals,  we  are  fatislied,  all  the  ftncerr  are  pcrfedly  united,  aud  we  bcHevc 
•hat  moft,  even  of  DiiTenters,  who  feel  thtf  comfort,  and  admit  the  ufefubeb 
ot  Ibcial  worihip  and  public  inflrudion,  are  alfo  friendly  to  the  pre&rvatioo 

•f 


bf  Bedrtile.  577 

churches  in  this  country,  neither  proceeds  from  the  genius    . 
bf  Prelbytery  (the  Eftabliflied  Religion)  the  temper  of  the 
people  of  Scotland,  nor  the  tafte  df  the  Eftablilhed  Clergy^ 
who  all  feel,  and  often  cxprcfs  the  hardlhip  of  their  fituatiort 
Vol.  XV.  4  E  in 

bf  tKe  eiUblifiiment  of  parochial  churchet  and  fchools.    And  that  this  ii  the 
cafe,  is  evident  from  this,  that  nope  do  more  heartily  accord  with  the  com- 
hion,  and  perhaps,  in  too  many  inftances,VeIl  founded  outcry  againft  the  lat^ 
frequent  annexations  and  fupprefllons  in  different  parts  bf  the  country.   And, 
therefore,  the  only  difference  on  that  head  is,  as  is  natural  and  fuppofeablc,  that 
each  would  wifli  the  clergy  and  fchoolmaftcrs,  fettled  in  the  pariih  churches 
and  fchools,  eftabliflied  by  laW,  of  their  own  fetft  or  profcflion.     But  all  mult 
fee,  that  in  this,  a*  in  a  few  fpeculative  opinions,  in  which  feds  differ  from 
each  other,  they  are  not  only  oppofed  to  all  who  at  prcfcni  adhere  to  the  E- 
ftabliflied  Church,  by  far  thfe  major  part  of  the  community,  but  arc  alfo  there- 
by equally  in  oppofition  to  the  inclinations  and  wifbes  of  one  another.    Nay; 
farther,  when  the  matter  is  duly  conlidcrcd,  the  annihilation  of  an  Eflablilb- 
ed  Clergy,  ai  it  tragainft  thfc  inclination,  fo,  obvioufly,  it  would  be  contrary  to 
the  fecular  intereft  of  the  people.    For  there  is  not,  perhaps,  a  popular  com- 
plaint better  (bond^,  and,  in  the  juftice  of  which  all  defcriptions  of  men  are 
more  agreed,  than  that  agaifaft  the  modem  cuftom  of  the  the  money  raifed  in 
the  country  by  the  non-refidence  of  many  of  the  landholders,  different  from 
the  pr^dice  of  their  fathers,  being  ipent  fo  ntnch  at  a  diftance  from  it.  Now, 
by  our  ezcellent  Cosftitotion,  the  clergy  of  Scotland  are  all  without  excep- 
tion bound  to  refide.    By  this  means  all  ihat  they  receive  in  (lipend,  out  of 
the  lands  of  theif  refpedive  parifhes,  &c.  is,  thereby,  not  only  kept  in  the 
country,  bat,  moft  of  it,  fpent  in  the  feveral  parishes  and  neareft  market  towns 
to  thefe  pariihes,  in  which,  both  by  the  laws  of  the  church  and  the  fiate,  they, 
ibc  clergy,  arc  bound  to  refide.     Whatever  therefore,  be  the  wifli  of  thofc 
(we  trud  they  are  but  few)  who  are  equally  inimical  to  order,  to  law,  and  to 
good  government,  as  thry  are  to  religion,  we  are  fatisfied,  that  few,  if  any, 
of  any  description,  even  of  Diffenters,  at  leaft  in  this  part  of  the  country,  have  , 
fo  far  degenerated  from  the  well  known  principles  of  their  pious  and  virtuous 
anceflors,  as  to  wifli  national  religion  altogether  abolifhcd,  but  only,  that  it 
were  of  that  fcdl  or  party  of  which  they  are  members.     But  fuppofiog  it  o- 
thcrwife,  we  would  a(k  fuch,  What  they  would  think  of  a  Government  or 
State,  foppofe  Great  Britain,  that  would  feize  upon  all  that  has  been  difponed 
b^  indlvidttals  for  the  fupport  of  rcligiouf  woiihip  and  public  injELnidion,  it 

li 


578  Statijiical  Account 

in  this  rcfpeci,  and  their  hearty  difapprobation  (hereof;  and 
fome  of  the  people  thus  circumftanccd,  cvdn  go  the  length 
to  give  it  as  the  reafon  for  their  remaining  at  home  in  bad 
weather,  and  others,  of  dcferting  the  Eftabliflicd  Church  al-- 

together, 

IS  no  matter,  if  it  lias  been  tolerated  by  law,  of  yrhat  USt  or  defcn'ption  I 
Would  this  not  cut  down,  at  ooe  ftrokc,  the  pious  funds  of  all  the  DifTcnters, 
together  wich  the  remalDing  part  of  the  patrimony  of  the  church,  ftill  refer« 
v'ed  by  the  Legiilature  to  be  applied  according  to  its  original  intentioa,  for 
the  fupport  of  national  religion,  1.  e.  public  ^ucrjbijf  and  infruSlion  T  The  EfU- 
blifhed  Clergy  of  Scotland,  as  was  faid,  being,  by  law,  moft  flridly  bound  to 
refide,  none  of  them,  therefore,  are  capable  of  holding  plaraUties»  or  any  li- 
irlng,  in  csmmemhm,  by  which  means,  independent  of  the  fuitablencis  of  this 
falutaiy  regulation,  the  money  they  receive  In  ftipend,  &c.  as  was  alfo  men- 
tioned, is  necfefTiriry  circulated  ixi  t5e  parifhci  and  neareft  market  towns  to 
where  it  is  raifed,  by  which  means  the  people  have  not  only  immediately  the 
benefit  of  their  indru^on,  advice,  and  frieodihip,  bat  alfo,  mediately^of  the 
IkJpends  they  receive,  by  their  being  expended  amongft  them.  By  the  bw  of 
Scotland,  alfo,  the  poor  of  every  dcfcriptlon  or  fc<fl  whatever,  withoat  excep- 
tion, in  each  landward  parifli,  have  a  legal  title  to  call  upon  the  eftablilhed 
minifter,  and  he  is  bound,  if  the  heiitors  and  tenants  do  not  duly  aiTefs  them- 
ftlves  in  what  is  reafonable  for  their  maintenance,  upon  proper  information^ 
to  report  to  the  Judge  Ordinary,  what  appears  fo  10  him,  and  aid  the  may 
be  otherwife  altogether  hclplef«,  and  thereby  prevent  what  might,  in  fome 
cafes,  perhaps,  prove  a  fatal  delay.  For  the  miniiler  is  ufually  unable,  how- 
ever difpofed,  himfclf  to  fupply  them,  or  to  find  any  other  certain  means 
whereby  to  fupply  them,  according  to  their  often  great  and  urgent  neceflkies. 
And,  therefore,  this  benevolent  and  wife  regulation,  in  our  law,  thou^  fcl- 
dom  exerclfed,  is  a  moft  necefiary  and  proper  fecurity  to  the  poor,  efpeciaUy 
in  thcfe  times,  different  from  thdTe  in  which  landholiders  gcneraUy  rclided  in 
the  country,  and  regularly  attended  the  church  ;  by  which  mcatxa,  they  not  * 
•nly  had  an  opportunity  to  hear  and  know  weekly,  the  ftate  of  the  poor  in 
the  pariih,  But,  befides  contributing  themielves,  of  fctting  au  example  to  jheir 
.tenants  and  dependants,  alfo,  to  comrtbute  to  their  relief;,  whents,  it  is  now 
too  generally  cuftomary  for  them,  not  only  to  refide  the  greateft  part  of  the 
year^  if  not  altogether,  in  the  Capital,  or  fome  great  town,  but,  when  in  the 
country,  rarely,  if  at  all,  to  attend  public  woifhip.  As  this  modem  pAdice 
lias  abvady  greatly  aScded  foclcty,  fo  it  is  particularly  hurtful  to  the  inte. 

reft 


of  Bedrule.  579 

together,  and  attending  divine  fervice  with  the  Di (Tenters, 
whofc  houfes  of  worfhip,  though  built  by  contribution,  arc 
decent,  convenient,  and  comfortable ;  and  choofc  rather  13 
do  this,  though  accompanied  with  cxpcnce,  than  attend  the 
Eftabliflied  Clergy  in  thofe  churches  where  their  hcaUh  is  i:i 
danger.  Strangers  will  naturally  wifh  to  be  informed  from 
whence  the  ncglcdl  proceeds.  Candour,  however  painful," 
'  obliges  us  plainly  to  ftate  the  anfwer.  By  the  law  and  prac- 
tice of  Scotland,  different  from  what  obtains  in  fome  other 
countries,  the  burden  of  building  and  repairing  the  churches 
eftabliOied  by  law,  particularly  in  landward  or  country  pi- 
riflies,  is  not  raifed  by  aflcffment  on  all  poflcffors  of  lands  and 
houfes,  whether  tenant  or  proprietor,  indifcriminately,  nor 
raifed  by  briefs,  but  is  raifed  from  lands  only  ;  and,  there- 
fore, by  the  fame  right,  according  to  the  Conftltution  and 
prefent  exifting  law  of  Scotland,  by  which  our  heritors  or 
landholders  in  the  act  called  ^ori/^/«7wr/*pofIefs  their  eftates, 

4  E  a  they 

reft  and  comfort  of  the  modJI  and  defcrving  poor,  by  fo  much  breaking  off . 
their  connexion  with  the  wealthy,  and,  in  mod  cafrt,  even  preventing  theqi 
being  known  to  them ;  by  which  means,  the  modeft  and  (hamelefi,  the  induf- 
trioDt  and  flothfol,  the  deferving  and  worthieis,  are  unavoidably  placed  on 
the  fame  footing,  and  chffed  indifcriminately  on  the  fame  common  roll,  which, 
though  in  as  aifefimem  of  that  nature,  can  fcarccly  be  avoided,  it  obvioufly 
the  occafion  of  many  and  great  evils,  befides  increailng  xhc  ^oor-raU^, 

•  Parijhhnert,  L  e.  btritwt.  This  cxpreffioo  is  equally  agreeable  to  the 
Jaw  and  pradUce  of  Scotland  :  **  For,  (to  the  w6rd«  of  a  great  lawyer  (  on 
chat  head)  all  who  have  lands  in  a  parilh,  are  eonfidered  as /^rrj^/V/r^rj,  wltli- 
out  refpeA  to  their  refidence,  at  to  atl  partial  hurdtm^  which  are  propor« 
Cioned  to  the  valuation  of  every  foeritot's  lands  in  the  parilh,  and  not  to  his 
quality  or  his  Sands  in  other  pariflies."  A  A  54.  Pari.  3.  Ja.  6.  T572.  •■  And 
(in  die  words  of  the  fame  great  man)  the  church  yard  is  fenced  ^ith  dykes, 
partly  for  ornament,  and  partly  as  a  prelervative  to  the  dead  bodies,  from 

bclr^ 
I  Fur  hit  on  TtM^p^ges  409  and  IX  ^ 


58p    "  Statijiical  Account 

they  are  boundi  beiides  upholding  manfe  jtrul  ichpoUhoafes 
to  build  and  repair  the  parifli  church,  church;-yard  wails,  &c. 
where  their  lands  are  fituated,  in  a  reafonable  and  -decent 
manner.  Hence,  as  is  obvious,  fuch  lindholdcrs,  and  they 
only,  who  ncgleft  to  do  fo,  giw  ground  for  that  refledion  \ 
and  the  bad  ftatc  of  many  of  the  pari(h  churches  of  this 
country,  thereby  become  fo  juft  a  caufe  of  complaint  to  tlic 
people,  to  the  very  people,  who  by  their  adhcrende  to  the  c- 
ftabliflicd  religion  of  the  country,  certainly  do  (hew  them- 
felves  not  the  lead  friendly  to  our  happy  Conftitution,  in 
church  and  in  ftate ;  thereby^^  alfb,  as  is  obvious,  the  laws  arc 
infringed,  and  the  moil  peaceable  and  religious  of  his  Majcf- 
ty*s  fubjefts,  much  aggrieved*  For,  the  law  of  this  coun- 
try is  fo  well  and  fo  wifely  framed,  as  to  lay  the  burden  of 
building  and  repairing  the  church  and  fchool-houfc,  &c.  up* 
on  the  rich,  to  relieve  the  poor,  not  upon  perfons,  but  upon 
property,  therefore,  no  individual's  rights  or  property  are  or 
can  be,  invaded  or  affefled  thereby  ;  nor  can  any  perfons  or 
clafles  of  men,  of  whatever  defcription,  be  any  way  interfer- 
ed with,  but  as  proprietors  of  lands,  ^r  tbair  lands  only  -  on 
yrhich  exprefs  condition  they  are  conveyed  and  held  ;  and, 
thetefore,  by  negle£ting  to  acquit  themfelves  of  ihefe  \e^A 
engagements,  to  «4ach  they  are  bound  by  the  fame  tenure 
they  hold  their  eftates,  as  well  as  to  fjulfiU  fo  pious  and  im- 
portant 

being  digged  up  and  derovrtd  by  bcAfts.  The  boiiding  and  rcpxtring  of 
churches  and'cfavrch-yard  dykes,  was  ooce  refeircd  to  the  Privy  Coaacil, 
ad  76.  Pari.  9.  ad  May  1693.  But  norw  the  pariibbneriy  i.  e.  ttrittu^  nnift 
build  and  repair  the  church  yard  dykes  with  ft«qe  and  mortar  two  dsf  (yanfe) 
high,  with  fufficient  ftilcs  and  entriei,  and  the  Lords  of  Seflioa  are  to-dife& 
letters  of  homiog  ajpaioft  tbemto^that  effcdt  A^  43%>  Pail.  15.  Ja.  6. 159?.*' 
l*he  parifiiioBers  (heritors)  are  aUb  bound  to  provide  cemmoaioo  cap*,  ta- 
bles, and  table  ckjths,  &c.  vide  chap.  6.  Pari,  aa  Ja,  6. 161;. 


cJBtdruk.  581 

portant  a  duty ;  they,  at  the  fame  time^  plainly  (heir  a  hig^ 
difrefped  to  the  worihip  of  Cod^  and  a  great  difregacd  for 
the  Xu>nftitution  and  Laws  of  their  countf y^  by  whkli  diey 
are  fecured  and  proietled  in  the  etrjoyment  of  their  rights  and 
property. 

It  may  be  aflced.  Is  there  no  compuffitor  provided  by  law  ta 
h^rd  cafes  ?  There  is«  Bui»  not  to  xnention  bo,w  areric 
the  people  re&ding  in  a  parifh,  natuially  muft  be  to  enter 
into  a  procefs  at  Jaw  with  the  very  perfons  of  whom  they 
farm  tbpir  lands;  the  trouble  and  ex  pence  of  fucha  proceft* 
v^ith  men  fo  weighty  and  powerful,  is  an  o^e^ion  to  iheni 
for  the  mod  part  infurnaounuUe.  And  it  is  the  more 
bard,  as  there  is  no  reafon  to  doubt^  but  that  the  people  in 
the  communion  of  the  Eftabliflied  Church  would  be  equally 
forward,  according  to  their  abiliues,  to  re-build  and  repair 
their  churches,  as  the  Diilenters  are  their  houfcs  of  worfhipy 
were  it  not«  that  the  law  has  fo  wifely  ordered  it  otfaerwife, 
by  laying  the  burden  of  fupporting  the  eftabliflied  religion  of 
the  country,  on  lands  purchafed  and  held  on  that  exprefs 
condition,  whereby  all  pcrfons  of  w^iate^pcr  defcription,  except 
proprietors  of  lands ^^  their  lands  oniy^  arc,  juftfy  fpeaking, 
exempted ;  and  thofe  alone,  who  are  inclined  to  adhere  to 
the  eftablifhed  church,  are  affe^ied  by  their  neglecl ;  and 
thus,  thereby,  either  made  to  fufier,  or  involve  themfehres  in 
a  procefs  of  law,  which,  for  reafons  above  mentioned,  they 
rarely  adventure  upon;  or  abfent  themfelves  from  divine  fcr- 
yice  ;  a  cuftom,  alas  !  become  too  common  ;  or  take  refuge 
among  tlie  DiiTenters,  whofe  houfes  of  worfhip  are  duly-atn 
(ended  to,  and  where  the  people  fit,  in  the  ferereft  weather, 
dry  and  comfortable :  and,  it  is  proper  to  add,  what  certain^ 
ly  ought  to  have  much  weight,  that  however  inclined  thofe 
adhering  to  the  Eftabliflied  Church,  in  moft  country  pariOies^ 
^ay  be  to  accommodate  themfelves^  if  the  law  had  not  or- 
dered 


5^:^  SiMiical  Acctmnt 

detcd  it  otherwifej  this  is  in  a  great  meafure  to  them  imprac<« 
ticable>  not  only  by  their  diftance  from  one  another,  but  mor^ 
cipecially  their  generally  low  circumftanccs,  who,  notwith- 
ftandtng,  as  our  happy  Conftitution  has  fixed  it,  have  as  good- 
a  right,  by  law,  to  enjoy  the  advantages  of  religious  inftruc- 
tion  and  education,  by  the  wife  inftitution  of  parochial  cler- 
gy, and  eftabiiflied  fchoolmafters,  as  their  more  wealthy 
brethren  in  cities  and  in  towns,  to  whom,  by  their  neamets 
to  one  another,  their  numbers  and  greater  weahh,  the  want 
of  thefe  eftablifhments,  fo  particularly  neceflary  in  the  coun- 
tiry,  might,  however  proper  alfo  in  towns,  by  the  inhabitants 
thereof,  be  more  eafily  fuppHed  \  whereas^  if  the  poor  and 
Scattered  inhabitants  in  mod  landward  pariOies,  be  deprived 
of  the  benefit  of  their  eftabliOied  churches  and  parochial 
ichools,  as  appointed  by  law,  many  of  them,  efpecially  in 
remote  fit  nations,  muft  unavoidably  lofe  the  advantages  of  re- 
ligious inflrudlion  and  education,  f  fo  intcrefting,  not  only 

tt 

f  Attnottificati*oianddeirati*nsamoog(l  diflenteri  ire  intended  to  fop- 
^rt  a  particular  church  or  fed,  according  to  the  vrill  of  the  dooor^  fo  the 
funds  in  Scotland,  appropriated  by  law  for  the  fupport  of  public  teachers,  in 
landward  diftri^  or  pariihes,  ought,  in  like  manner,  ever  to  be  confidercd  as 
facred  depofits  wifely  prefcrvcd  by  the  legiflatore  in  favour  of  the  communi- 
ty, in  order  that  people  in  the  meanefl  circunaftances,  and  moft  retired  fitaa- 
tions,  may  always  have  the  opportunity  of  being  inftniSed  in  true  re- 
ligion, «  to  do  juIUy,  to  love  mercy,  and  to  walk  humbly  j  to  do  to  aO 
**  as  they  would  they  (hould  do  to  them,  were  they  in  c^eir  circumftanccs,'* 
and  whcneTC|-  the  inftitution  of  public  inftruAors  has  a  diftcrent  tendency, 
which,  we  are  apt  to  believe,  is  feldom  the  cafe,  tliis  by  no  means  proceeds 
from  the  nature  or  principle  of  the  inftitution  itfelf,  but  from  the  pcrverfion 
of  its  original  intention  and  obvious  ufei  and  this  the  community  ought,  there-  ' 
«  fore,  ever  moft  carefully  to  guard  againft,  and  alfo  againft  any  of  its  memben 
being  conftrained  to  attend  the  Eftablilhed  teachers,  in  preferesce  to  othersi 
or  thofe  wl^o  do  attend  them,  being  any  way  difturbcd  on  that  account. 


ofBedrulc.  583 

to  themfelves  and  their  childreny  but  alfo  to  the  political 
health  and  happincfs  of  the  ftatc. 

It  will  probably  be  fuppofed^  that  the  minifter  of  the  pa* 
riih,  in  particular^  is  thereby  called  upon»  in  duty>  to  iniift  for 
the  fuliUment  of  the  law  \  but,  not  to  mention  what  is  ufu* 
ally  the  cafe>  his  utter  inability>  in  point  of  circumftances,  to 
enter  the  lifts  with  a  number  of  wealthy  and  powerful  oppo- 
nents, and  that,  too,  without  any  other  aid  or  countenance^ 
but  the  goodnefs  of  his  caufe  \  he  is  alnsofl  certain  of  being 
thereby  inirolved  in  inexpreiTible  difficulties ;  and,  in  the  ifTue, 
as  has  often  been  experienced,  may  not  only  have  the  morti- 
fication of  being  difappointcd  of  fuccefs,  but  alfo,  however  un*- 
ju(lly,of  being  thereby  held  up  as  litigious,  teafing,  and  trou- 
blcfome.H 

It 

Y  Indeed  it  may  be  proper,  in  this  place,  to  obferTe,  in  general,  that  the 
people  feem  more  diflatiified  at  their  inability  to  render  the  laws  efficient,  tlian 
■t  what  they  conlider  the  moft  aneqoal  and  heavj  of  the  taxes :  that  fome  of 
them  chufe  rather  to  fubmit  to  oppreifion  and  the  lofs  of  their  property, than 
contend  in  a  law  fiiit  with  the  wealthy,  &c.  becaufe  they  are  afraid,  which  e« 
ver  way  it  go,  of  the  effeAs  thereof,  while  their  rich  opponents,  from  their 
greater  weahh,  &c.  would  be  fcarcely  at  all  affed^ed  by  it,  and  they  can  there- 
by ealily,  alTo,  perplex  and  prolong  the  bufinefs,  and  carry  it  from  one  Conrt 
to  another,  where,  from  the  greater  expence,  difUnce,  &c.  they,  their  feeble 
antagoniQs,  are  Hill  more  anabic  to  contend  : — And  that  this  is  fometimes 
ciTeduaL'y  held  out  in  Urrorem^vihcn  any  of  them  happen  to  be  hardy  enough, 
to  prcfume  to  maintain  their  juft  lights,  contrary  to  the  pleafure  of  their 
more  opulent  neighbours.  ^  To  add  to  thefe  hardfliips,  they  alfo  complain, 
that  they  have  not  accefs  for  ordinary,  to  thofe  by  whom  they  are  aggrieved, 
to  plead  their  caufe  or  ftate  their  cafe,  hardfhips  and  grievances,  but  only 
through  people  employed  by  them,  of  whom  they  h»ve  ufually  a  fiill  more 

unfavourable 

I  Ff9m  the  ^Mrds  pfa  teHain  gnat  max,  {Dr  ydbti/on)  it  it  tvidmtly  hh  »/«- 
«M«,  that  "  N^fibtmt  tf  poliey  baty  in  any  cmntry  yet^  Broygbi  tie  titb  and powr 
^  cm  equal  termj,  iaio  CwrU  ofJuHtaturt"^^  But  htfeem*  mot  alt9gether  tc  dffpatr 
of  it  /  Jor  ht  adds^  «  Perhafs  cx^ericftct  im^rrgi/fg  oh  ex^eriemc^  may  im  tim  ef^ 


584  Stati/ikal  Accmnt  ^ 

It  is  for  rcafons  fach  as  thcfe,  and  not  from  a  want  of  drf- 
fjre  on  the  part  of  the  people  and  nninifter  of  Bedrule,  to  have 
CTcry  thing  put  on  a  legal  footing,  that  the  church-yard  wall 
is  in  great  difrepair,  that  the  gate  is  fo  broken  down  and  ne^ 
gleQed,  as  not  to  prevent  the  intrufion  of  fwine,  and  there- 
by to  alarm  the  people  in  the  neighbourljood  for  the  graves 
of  their  deceafed  relations  ;  that  the  church  bell,  which  has 
been  fong  rent,  is  now  altogether  ufelefs  by  the  want  of  a 
tongue  j  that  the  beadle  is  without  a  falary  •,  that  the  manfe 
has,  till  of  late,  been  inhabited  by  the  miniftcr,  notwithftand- 
iHgits  long  very  bad  ftate  ;  that  the  church  and  fchoolhonfe  ftill 
remain  in  their  ruinous  condition.  And,  wc  arc  forry  to 
fa^'-,  drat  that  kind  of  ncglecl  is  tX)0  common  over  the  coun- 
try 5  and,  not  to  mention  that  many,  who  from  their  rank  or 

(lation, 

unfavourable  opinion;  and,  therefore,  to  whottl,  tlioughffai'UMimJd  piit, 
we  bcKeve,  unjuHIy,  they  are  apt  to  afcr i be  their  liard&i]^  an^  dilicuUm. 
Sut,  in  order  to  judge  how  much  thU  it  the  csfc,  we  need  onli*  remiod  our 
reader  of  the  anfwcr  given  by  Charles  If.,  though  reprefented,  at  the  fain« 
time,  by  the  hiftorxan  who  relates  the  fad,  as  of  a  humane  and  feeling  drfpo- 
fition,  when  informed  of  the  hardfliips  the  people  fuflered,  ohder  the  adrai* 
niflration  of  a  certain  great  fervant  of  his :  ^  I  p^ceive,  iSA  ht^  tlHitrliU- 
derdale  has  Been  guilty  of  mafiy  bad  things  agaitill  the  people  of -^col^nd, 
'hot  X  cannot  find,  that  he  has  a^cd  any  thinjf  conitary  u  my  interep^^  And, 
ther^ure,  fiotwithftanding,  his  conftflcd  humanity,  he  neither  called  him  to 
,  account,  nor  difmilled'  him  his  fervice,  far  Tef^  did  he  give  mm  orders  to 
repair  the  injuries  done.  Wlicn  wc  have  faid  tlkns  much,  w*  liibttiit 
the  weight  «sd  importance  of  our  obA:rvatioDi,  with  great  defoi^ot ,  (^  tbe 
penetrating  pyr  of  an  impartial  public,  particularly  to  thofe  iuthe  iet^te 
and  judgment- feat,'  whonr  our  excellent  Conftitufion  has  happily  render- 
ed  independent  and  free.  And,  the  more  plainly,  becaufe,  we  arc  fatisficd, 
that  the  Beft  Support  af  any  natidn,  Ihellrongcft  piUars  of  any  gotcmiienf, 
are.  That  the^ieoiile's  notais  bs  found,  thiuLcheir  2aatnier»  be  citi^thaD  their 
/cligion  be  liberal,  that  the  laws,  ihaiy'^vr^  he  e^ua^y  eal^  mX  acccfil^^  w 


of^idruie.  5^5 

'{t^lion,  as  well  as  mtcreft  in  the  country,  ought  certainly  t5  » 
fct  a  better  example,  abfent  themfelves  from  public  woiflliip 
altogether,  the  difrefpe£l  that  is  thus  flicwrV  to  law  and  reli- 

'glon,  as  well  as  difregard  to  the  inclination,  convenience,  and 
comfort  of  the  people,  is,  in  our  opinion,  equally  impolitic  in 
them  as  it  is  illegal  and  profane-  For,  we  may  cxpeft,  and 
we  pray  God  it  be  not  in  fome  degree  the  cafe  already,  that 
the  contempt  that  has  been  of  late  fo  generally  thrown  on  re- 
ligion and  its  peaceful  adherents,  may,  in  tin^.e,  excite  the 
multitude,  who  are  but  too  apt  to  imitate  the  vices  of  their 
fuperiors,  rather  than  their  virtues^  to  fhake  ofF  their  honeft, 
as  well  as  pious  principles,  an^  at  lail  to  become,  if  not  as 
profane,  at  lead  as  corrupt  as  too  many  of  thofc  who  cftecm 
thcmfelvcs  their  betters.  When  this  event  takes  place,  which, 
if  not  wifely  prevented,  may  be  nearer  than  many  of  us  ima- 
gine, thofe  who  have  done  the  mifchief  muft  feverely  feel  the 
eflFcfts  of  it,  and  will  thereby,  though,  perhaps,  too  late,  find 
the  necejfityy  from  the  want  of  a  better  pr'inciplcy  oi  fctting  the 
example  of  a  proper  regard  to  tlxc  laws  of  God  and  their  coun- 
try, f6r  their  own  irtterejl  and  in  their  own  defence.  For,  what- 
ever falfc  and  vafin  philofophers  may  pretend,  a  nation  or  peo- 
ple, without  rtiigion  will  alfo  be  without  prxndpie% 
'  But  the  writer,  when  he  has  faid  thus  much,  is  at  the  fame 
time  happy,  with  great  juftice  and  equal  pleafure,  to  b«  able 
to  add,  that  by  far  the  greater  part  of  the  heritors  or  ]and« 
holders  of  Scotland  are  of  a  very  different  defcription.  And, 
therefore,  from  a  real  regard  to  the  worOiip  of  God,  the  coin- 
fort,  good  will,  and  convenience  of  the  people,  and  concern 
for  the  credit  of  their  native  country,  as  well  as  from  their 
high  refped  for  its  conftitution  and  laws,,  they  have  tiie  pa- 
rilh  churches,  where  their  lands  are  fituafcd,  not  only  decent 
and  cotnfortable,  but  fome  of  them  elegant. 

Vol.  XV.  .  4  F  C/erff.-^ 


its'  Statijlicat  Actc^i^t 

(^^^rgy.% — Mr  Joicph  Tcnncntt  who  fecms  to  hai'C.  bccdt 
dne  of  the  firft  of  the  Rcforatcd  clei^y  in  this  part  of  tbd 
country,  is  mentioned  in  an  old  record  of  prcfbytcry,  a$  mi- 
nifter  of  Bedrulc,  as  far  back  as  the  1606,  and  lived  till  about 
the  163!  ;  who  alfo  held,  for  a  confideraWe  time,  the  li» 
ving  of  Abbotrule,  the  cure  of  wliich  He  likewife  fcrvcd,  e- 
cVen  dowu  to  about  the  year  162 1,  when  it  was  disjoined 
from  Bedrule  •,  an  J  Mr  James  Ker,  laird  of  the  Grange,  aA 
eftate  in  thdt  parilh,  whofc  wife  wa*  charged  with  mtcbcrafti 
feut,  as  appears  from  the  above  record,  nt0  unjujily^  was  or- 
dained there  ;  he  being  the  firll  Protc{l<*nt  minifter  of 
Abbotrule  after, Its  <lis«junflion  from  Bedrule.  Mr  Tcnncnt 
•was  fuccecdcd  hy  Mr  David  Fowiis,  who  was  admitted  jotH 
Oftobcr  •633,  by  the  Bifliop  of  Caithnef^  §  and  pi^fbyfery  of 
Jedburgh,  Mf  Fowlis  was  fooii  after  tranftat<!d  to  Oxnam, 
which,  in  thofc  times,  fcems  to  have  been  conGdered  as  one 
of  the  mod  valuable  livings'  in  the  South  of  Scotlaod  ;  and 
Mr  Henry  Peirfon  fucceeded  him  in  rhc  benefice  of  Bedrule. 
But  the  Covenanters!,  fooh  aftet*  gaihing  the  afcendency, 

both 

\  rtcre  it  may  not  ^  miWOTthy  of  re  mark,  that  the  ScMttdi  Churcti,  a 
the  rank  of  her  Cler^,  before  her  <onttexk>A  with  the  See  of  Rome,  wu 
nearly  the  iame  as  flie  became  immediately  ob  her  Rcft>rhution  from  Pope- 
ry :  Ami,  that  tbt  Lihirgy,  or  Sook  ffCarnmoit  Orier^  received  and  ofed  by  tb^ 
keformed  Kirk  of  Scotland,  and  commonly  called  Kttttt'viJhmfj^  for  i^, 
fimpUctty,  natural  eafc  and  cnei]^  of  capivi&o»A  wofnalkd  by  f«w,  fend  Air* 
pafied  by  oont. 

$  Thia  wmi  Tit  John  Aberncihy,  then  alio  mtniAer  of  Jedbdrf^h,  tad 
tathor  of  a  the^^ogleal  work,  entitled,  «•  A  Chriftifn  «nd  Hebvcfttf  Treatife) 
containing  Phyfie  for  the  Soul."  Hii  o«m«  m  mentioned  in  the  |inMcd  1^ 
of  that  period,  aa  m  Member  of  fowral  ComoiiMecaof  rhc  Scotch  FiriiJitttQt' 

t  The  following  cxtra^,  from  the  record  of  Ptcfbyury^  wfll  ^nablo  lh«> 
rcftdcr  lo  ftvm,fomc  idca,how  indifcrinittMiioly  thoCovepatt  vaftadmiMCUr^ 
ed^ or  other  4iiipoled,ttpoiin»ny  of  the  pcpple^M that  tine^  when lho«c»* 

fitm 


ofBedrule.  587 

^>th  ihefc  gentlemen  were  removed  from  their  churches^  for 
their  attachment  to  Eplfcopacy.     Mr  Henry  Eliot  was  tho^ 
4  F  Prefbyterian 

fsrcs  of  the  Church  were  followed  up  by  civil  penaltict  (  **  At  Jedburgh  the 
lad  da)  of  February  Z644  (/irfer  alia)  The  ^u ilk  day  Mr  Walter  Makgill 
acquainted  the  brcthrin  by  his  letter,  that  hgviog  fummoned  John  Young  and 
Thomat  Young  in  Falsicadlc,  before  his  Seflion,  for  not  fubfcryvihg  the  CoTe« 
nant,  the  faid»  perfona  told  the  kit )&  ofScer,  that  <hey  would  kn  fknow  or  ««•- 
At0Tvle^J,j»o  fcifion  nor  minifttu'*  buf  folhvf  tbt  etmmtuul  0/  tbiir  m^Jier^  my 
J^rd  Traguair  t  and  for  refufal,he  caufcd  fif nru)U>D  them  before  this  pre(b}te«' 
ry  ag^ii^il  this  day,  who  not  compearing,  was  ordeane^  to  be  fuinmoned  pr9 
aJs  with  certification.''  Hence  the  danger  of  impoiing  indiscriminately  tha 
fjune  oath  qo  all  perlbni  of  every  defcriptioo,  as  well  as  the  peroijcious  copfo 
ifuftope  «f  niuttipiying  oath»,  and  rendering  ati  appeal  to  pod,  that  Itft  an4 
iBoft,£icf^pVBdg«.Qf  iecuritf  to  io^cty,  tpo  fre^ueiii  s«d  £»aiUjir  ;9ihe  pco? 
pie.  Mf  M^^gill  .w*#  rtiinifter  of  Qay^s,  apd,  as  app^rs  from  th^  fame  re<v 
cord,  preached  before  the  preihytexy  of  Jcdburii;h,  which  met  there  30tk  July 
x645>  f<cr  the  vifitatioh  6f  his  kirk,  at  the  advanced  ^ge  of  |o|.  FaftcaUle, 
vthkh  waa  then  the  ptoperty  of  the  £orl  of  Traq[uair,  is  a  curious  monnd  of 
cact^,^l^^thiir  ivitUFfl  «r  iMriificiaUff  imccftain,  on  which,  tilVof  late,  there 
wete  fcyer%l  hopfcs,  and»  though  in  the  partih  of  Covers,  isiituated  fo  near 
the  firjc  of  the  CafUe  of  Bedrule,  as  gives  ground  to  fi3me  to  fuppofe  it  to  have 
bpen  f^ifwd  in  ancient  time*>,  as  an  outwork  to  that  fortrefs. 

rt^y  ^M^flTi  tbai^th*  k^mtfrnlfpirU-^,  ytitltr^tf  tmm*t  ^ilh  Iri^  (,•  m^rt  jvftiy 

«rf  f c|t)Mv4r^  ^iH$h  ^ybyiery^9f4bai  /tanW,  w«tf  Akw,  tbm$  ibefphrit  tf  Uf^ktMU^ 
/>#B^/»//Vv  ^iZ-jmfftabfM  <#>^  w#  wtbt^Jy  tbejmar hd  ib^rmOeri/lic  •/ mp/l  vfi 

/9%i*<r  :  Ti>99i  tv^ieb,  m  »9tbiig  i*  plf^Uufiy  m^re  i  ^unical  to  tb*  ^act  rffoMttty  and 
tbe  fjfitj^mnd  baf^tft  9f  indtviditah^  f;  in  the  jurifpruJenct  0/  natium^  molhiitv 
aitg/f*  "^^  f^ffflrlfy^it  gWUnM  •fftmfi,  Sw  ^bm^b  nw  fet,  ty  tbf  famt  mtiun' 
M^jf  .^4/>.4iie.i>thi>lic.«ji#  PfotcfiaDi,  ibe  EjiictpaUan  o»d  Preibytcnan, 
*xN4r  fmfi^dbt  inui  tgtik*  9f.4btd  b^tirfmljfini,  siUe  Jartxiy  iuvngbimg  t^aiali  it, 
y^  -mejmf^tbfm,  miiiit p^Sfjftd  •fprvKKL,  ferfmttiHg  m  iUit  mrn  ;  Afas  i  in  . 
this  rcfp9B,  ail  roidtfiily  Jftwrng  tbanf^imt$  equally  fofgttful  of  tbtir  nva  ttm^ 
phku  mut/ufirirngsf  «»i«^i/5^  AMtf,  prenpu^and  pethm  ^  tbi  mttk  and  hyt* 
ly  ^Jim^'mAtmi  Hs  Wbtf  mlUd^ii^  tmftfbtg  tbe  <Mr«r#r  Awtbot  tf  tbtir  Paith^  tbiy^ 
(tH^^fncm)  ^kUp^  tin$fidtti4  ^  tbtir  wnfy  ptffiSt  exampiii  lawgivtr^  §n^ 


588  Statijlicat  Account 

PrcfbytCTir.n  rtiniftcr  who  fuccceded  Mr  Pcirfon/ mm!  ^vw* 
admitted  by  the  prefbytery  of  Jedburgh,  affif^cd  by  Commit 
fioncrs  from  the  neighbouring  presbyteries  of  Selkirk^  %Ahy 
and  Erfiltoun.*  He  died  about  the  year  1653. 

Mr 

*  As  the  following  extrad  from  the  dd  federtuit  book  of  the  a&  and 
proceedings  of  the  prcflyytcry  of  Jedburgh,  giv<.s  the  reader  a  didindl  iriew  of- 
the  form  of  admiJJioH  and  hfiltuiioH  ufed  by  our  ancedors,  p4>>€/kyUfUns,  and 
ihews,  with  what  attention  and  accuracy  they  conduded  bufisclk,  we,  for  the 
ekitertaiiiment  of  the  curious,  infert  it  here  : 

<«  At  BidrwU^  3d  Jui^  164a 
«  The  whilk  day  being  appomted  for  the  admiffioti  «€  Mr  Henry  Elloi> 
<«  to  the  ftini^on  of  the  ininiftrie,at  the  panKhtn  kiika  of  Bc^ofo,  the  lato- 
^  threo,  lyith  their  elders,  and  the  congregation,  conTeexied  day  and^place 
*<  ibrfaide,  f«r  that  fame  cfied,  wherat  Mr  WiHiam  Maxwell  haivmg  preach* 
«  ed,  Mr  William  ^eir,  moderator,  performed  the  a^  of  the  forfside  admiC 
«f  fion,  conform  to  the  pradis  of  this  church,  in  prcfence,  and  with  confeot- 
!*  and  applau?  of  the  heritors  and  parochtners  of  the  forfaide  parochin,  where- 
**  in  did  afli(l  and  concurre  with  the  brethren,  Andrew  Dunkifon  miniflerat 
«*  Lafowden,  Mr  Alexander  Reid,  minifter  at  Aflikirke,  from  the  prcibitric 
^  of  Selkirke,  Mr  Johnc  Douglas,  miotfter  at  Tettam,  from  the  preibitrie  of 
*<  Kelfo,  and  Mr  Thomas  Donakirone,  minifter  at  SmelUn,  from  the  preAi- 
*^  frk  of  Erfiltoun.  The  faide  day  the  moderator,  in  name  of  the  btrethxen» 
<«  aj(kcd  Mc  Heory  Eliot,  prefently  admitted^  as  hee  hade  done  lykeways  be- 
^  for  his  forXaide-admiiTion,  if  hec  hade  fet  any  tacke  of  the  teynds  or  vica. 
*<  rage  of  the  forfaide  kirke  of  Bedroulc,  to  any ;  whp  aoired  that  he  hade  not 
**  dire^lie  nor  indire^Ue,  next  the  brecbrea,  inhibit  thee  faide  Mr  Henry,  » 
^  £et  any  in  tymes  coming,  without  «dTfys  and  confent  of  the  brethren ;  the 
<<  fuid  Mr  Henry  promifpd  faithf uilie  not  to  fet  wiy  fuch  tadces  either  of  trynds 
*<  or  vicarage,  without  the  forfaide  adyyt  and  coofant ;  the  which  promts  the 
*»■  faid  Mr  Henry  confirmed,  with  his  foleron  oath,  in  pre^EBce  of  the  brethren. 
««  After  which  the  faide  Mr  Henry  required  that  the  brethren  would  gi« 
**  him  inftitntion  upon  his  prcfenfation,  collation,  and  admiilion,  given  bee 
*«  themfeWes ;  the  whilk  reqneft,  the  brethren  thought  lawful,  and  therefore, 
«*  the  nsoderator  did  giv^  the  faide  Mr  Heory  inftitution,  by  giving  the  bible 
<(  ff)  the  faide  Mr  Henry,  he  {landing  in  the  pulpit,  the  which  B3>Ie^the  Csido 
<'  Mr  Henry  gaive  about  to  hia  eUeri^  at  uia  it,  and  tooke  isfintBieois  theie* 


To  thofil^)  but  a  Iktke  acquainted  with  the  hiftory  of  that 
|ierio4,  it  H  known,  that  ia  i449>  patronage  was  repealed, 
iy  a^  of  Parfi^nient,  an*,  that,  foon  after,  certain  of  the 
clergy  were  diftingttiflied  by  the  name  of^  Pr^ujters^  from, 
their  protefting  againft  admitting  thofe  called  MaHgnantt 
(^Cavaliers,)  into  offices  of  truft,  of  even  into  the  Royal  ar* 
my,  in  oppofition  to  ariothcr  more  nnmerons,  but,  in  gener- 
al. lcf$  popular  party  of  the  clergy,  called  Rtf(4utt(mers,  from 
their  nibhtng  their  admiffioa  on  certain  conditions :  And, 
Aat,  in  confequcncc  of  the  jarring- of  Aofia  parties,  as  well 
aa  the  repeal  of  the  law  of  patroiwge,  the  fettlement  of  many 
chiirdhe»  was  rendered  difficult  at  thkt  time.  Whether  fironv 
thcfe,  or  ftom  oth<r  eanfes,  with  which  the  writer  is  as 
yet  unactjtialhtedi  the  diutchof  Bedrntei:  was  kept  vacant 

for 

«f  upon,  in  the  lMn<U  of  Robert  Rtttherfuc4y  notar  |Miblicke,  bofor  the  bretfarem 
«*  and  many  of  \hc  elders  ai^d  parochincra,  whom  he.  rcquyred  to  be  witaef- 
*'  fes  In  confirmaiion  of  his  forfaide  iuftitutioo.  The  faide  day  lykevaya  Mr 
<*  Henry  Eliot  defired  the  brethren  Chat  they  wotild  bee  pleafed  to  defigne  ane 
«•  mans  and  gktbe  to  htm,  at  the  fiude  lurke,  the  whilk  defyre  beeiog  found 
*\  kiwfuU  the  bre^ren  ordaioa  the  forfaide  defignation  to  bee  made  prefestlie, 
<«  and  thcreff>r  the  brethren  went  together  to  the  mass,, pertaining  to  the  mi« 
■c'  nifter  fenring  the  cure  at  the  kirke  of  Bedroule,  and  ther  the  moderator,  iit 
«*  their  name  and  prefcnce,  did  gire  pofleffioja  to  the  faide  Mr  Henry /*r  tra. 
H  £tionem  clawum,  ai>  ufe  is,  of  the  wholc  mans,  houfes,  biggings,  and  yeardei,, 
««  formerlie  poffeft  bee  Mr  Henry  Pclrfone,  late  incumbent  ther  ;  as  alfo  tha 
•«  faide  moderator,  in  name  a^nd  prefence  of  the  brethitn,  went  and  gaive  pofi- 
<•  feflion  to  the  faide  Mi  Henry,  j>er  iraJhkwm  lafidit  f^  ghBtr,  as  ufc  is,  of 
«*  the  whole  gleibe  and  kirke  lands  pertaining  and  belonging  to  the  mioif. 
«  tcr  fcrving  the  cure,  at  the  forfaide  kirke  of  Bcdroulc,  and  of  late  pofied 
«?  l)cc  the  forfaide  Mr  Henry  t^ciffone,  late  incUmbcftt  ther ;  in  verification, 
**  oi  the  prcmifes,  the  faide  Mr  Henry  took  kiftrumcDts  in  prefcnce  of  the 
«f  .bretiiicn,  in  the  hands  of  Robert  Rutherfurd,  notar  publicke,  re^uyring 
•*  llkcways  the  lairds  of  Bedroulc,  elder  and  younger,  with  fandric  other*  of, 
•».'ihe  parocliincrs,  to  bear  \ti:ncfs  thereunto.*' 


59^  StatiJiicaJ  Account 

for  no  flaorter  a  period  th;»n  th^  fpace  of^fife  ^rears*  B  At  Ia(l» 
Mr  Hugh  Scot  was  fcitlcd  Kere,  17th  March  1658*  He  did 
Qot  continue  long  minifter ;  for,  ottithe'rocftaUtflioient  of 
Epifcopacy,  he  wa$  reuuived  from  bia.  church  for  noH'Caa- 
formity*  Mr  James  Ad;|m£>n»  mintft^  of  Carridisn^  was  pro- 
ferred  to  the  living  of  Be4rule  7thSei»ten)beff  ft664,  aadooiK 
tinued  miaifter  here  during  the.  reigns  of  Charles  and  JameSg 
and  feems  to  have  died  about  the  time  of  the  KevoUitioa* 
He  was  focceeded  by  Mr  Jaines  Borlaodt  ip  16909  who  waft 
the  firft  miniftei  (ettled  here  after  prciisbylery  becaofiOiagaiiif 
the  eftablilhed  religion-,  Mr  BorUn4.was,iucf;^ed$4.byL:]lb 
John  Gilchrift  in  17141  who,  in  1748^  was  fuccecded  by  Mr 
George  Dickfon^  to.whoi^  the  prefect  ininifter  fuc«<64ded  ja 
1788.  And,  i^  is^refQarjcahlCf  of  tbefi^  abo?e .  mentioiied 
nine  incumbents,  fince  the  Reformarion,  e^coept  Mr  David 
Fowlis,  who  was  tranflated  to  Oxoamc  that  they  all  died 
minillers of  Bedrale»  or  were  removed  from  their  charge^' 
not  for  any  fault  or  irregularity  of  .co^dUiQi  but-  fcm=  theit 
faithful  adherence  to  ^  rel^im  |;^y  profefled^  anMl^  Jkow- 
ever  obvioufly  of  diffecent  fentimeiU6*.^fmfJH)i'iMKlfft^adioefii- 
in  die  caufe  they  thought  bed,  were  cfjually  ^lyeknurltiibieaia^ 
the  charaQer  of  all*     .  ,      ^''  .  •     J     ^    '  ^^ 

I  Indeed,  from  a  remarkable  coincidence  of  ciroimllauiees,  the  recox46 
and'hifioryof  this  country,  in  general,  during  that  period,  happen  to  d« 
▼ery  iinperfe<dl.    For,  not  to  mention,  the  records  A«d  ^thrt*  ^fttet^lig'^-  ' 
pers,  vwhich  were  carried  to  X-ondon  by  oydsf  of  ibn  Pr9adaK;"*fttiAg  feteii'' 
loft  by  the  wreck  of  the  vt  fl*el  in  ^bich  ^h^^  ^^r^  rffUTQJpgy  bf  9idf  r  pf.: 
Government,  after  the  Refloration,  on  .the  l^pt^la^  cpafl>«.  DCWC  ftSR^'J^i 
(Caroline  park,)  General  AlTemblics  were  intcrdldbed  during  ^hc  Ufurnatbii  i  ^ 
^  Prciviodal Synod  *as  therefore,  then  tfce  hlghelt  EccVe%alncat  Couit  &'tKli 
eountry  \  iid4  t'beHiPicfCtardt  of  the  plxy<s)bdiai  ry«6d  t>Pti^tBe  smd^ivnit* 
dale,  preceding  ^;o8j»,^,  pr^ably,  c»m*mm^fA*^i!mBt0t^tAvfyi^'^ 
that  very  long  vacancy,  were  unfortuDateiy  de&roycd  by  accidental  fire  in 
the  munk  of  Morebattje* 


Mvdntagis.-^This  parifli  is  fifUated  iii  the  centre  of  a 
l^rof parous. thoagh  not  very  pofmlous  county,  interfered  by 
the  great  road  between  Berwick  and  Carlifle,  touched  on  by 
ft  branch  of  the  Lond6n  road  to  Edinburgh,  not  more  than 
two  miles  diftant  from  Jedburgh,  about  7  miles  from  Hawick, 
both  excellent  market  towns.  The  land  is  in  general  of  a  dry 
foilj  yet  watered  by  a  confiderable  number  of  fprings,  rivu- 
lets and  brooks,  in  moft  places  of  eafy  aCcefs  and  at  con- 
trenient  diftances  from  each  other.  Bcfides,  upon  the  Weft 
and  North  k  is  for  the  moft  part  bounded  by  the  before  men- 
tioned pure  and  copious  ftreams  of  the  Rule  and  the  Tiviotw 

D^rf«(j/7/i2^^i'.-«^The  great  diftance  from  coal,  the  bad- 
acfs  of  the  road  from  Spittal  bridge  to  the  fouthern  extrc** 
'  mity  of  theparifti)  by  which  the  people  in  this  part  of  the 
country,  ufu-illy  pafs  or  make  a  great  circuit,  to  Reid,  in 
Northumberland,  for  coal>  and  Windburgh,  a  confiderablc 
mountain  on  the  borders  of  Liddyfdale,  for  lime  -,  and  the 
badnefs  of  that  from  Bedrule  to  Jedburgh,  the  ne^rcft  mar* 
ket  town,  are  difadvantages  not  only  to  this  pai  iih,  but  alfo  to 
the  nrnghiMMirhood,  and  whi6h,  with  no  great  diffi«  ulty,  may^ 
and,  we  hope,  foon  will  be  removed,  as  both  thefc  roads, 
^n,  in  genera],  on  a  gentle  declivity  and  favourable  bot- 
tom, and  are  near  excellent  materials. 

Cpncltifion. — It  will  be  obfcrved,  that  the  writer  of  the  fbre- 
going  Statiftical  Account  has  avoided  repeating  the  fame 
things,  fo  properly  taken  notice  of  in  the  accounts  of  the  va- 
rious parifhes  in  this  part  of  the  country,  already  publifhcd  i 
and,  therefore,  whenfoever  that  is  ftlt  as  a  dcfeft  by.  the 
reader,  it  will  be  only  neceifiry  for  him  to  fupp6&,  that  the  • 
inhabitants  of  the  paofl)  of  Bedrule  have  nearly  the  ffme  rei^ 
llgious  and  {>oIitical  totmients ;  prcdiIe£tions  and  prcjudi- 

eesj^  < 


$9^  Statistical  JciouHt 

ces^i  ^re  nearly  of  the  fame  fize^  ftrength,  and  vigour  of  hb^ 
dy  and  mind,  and^  from  fimilarcaules,  are  liable  to  the  fame 
difeafes^  as  mentioned  in  one  or  other  of  thefe  accounts : 
That  the  fame  animals,  io^ht  and  migratmy  birds,  roam  in 
^he  field,  and  fly  in  the  air,  indiffereiltly  over  this  and  the 
neighbouring  paiiihes ;  That  the  rivers  abound  with  nearly 
the  fame  kinds  of  fith,  in  the  fame  feaffons  of  the  year,  of  the 
'fame  quality,  flavour,   afid  (bape,   and  in  general  alfo  Heaily 

of 

•  Tt  may  be  proper  here  only  to  remark,  in  gcncnl,  thit  the  peojSte  la 
this  country  feera  not  now  fo  ftroagly  attached  to  their  iatrds  or  kiafteti  M» 
formerly ;  and  that  the  prediledion  of  many  to  'their  saciVaToUf  and  a  6eT' 
tain  unfortunate  family,  iii  gieatly  dimiaiflied ;  the  Iqniusr  being  much  weak- 
ened) tbe  iaiter  ilmoft  every  where  worn  oot*  Indeed,  they  (eem  now«  in 
general,  more  arxiowi  bow  they  live,  than  where;  how  they  are  governed^ 
than  by  whom ;  what  the  laws  are,  than  who  are  their  makers ;  and  horn 
Joft  and  equal  foever  they  be,  are  apt  to  conlider  tbemfelvee  proteded  there* 
by,  only  fo  far  as  they  have  it  in  their  power  to  re&der  them  elficient.  Thefe 
changes,  we  believe,  may  be  eafily  accounted  for.  To  thit  country,  (brmep- 
ly,  the  grcatcftrefpe  A  was,  generally  paid  to  family;  for  then  almoiH  every 
perlbn  confidered  hinifclf  of  feme  family,  and  was  thereby  led  to  thinK 
be  had  an  intereft  therein.  And  his  intereft,  in  this  real  or  feppoM 
ceonedion,  was,  for  the  moft  part,  not  merely  idcel.  For,  then,  tc  ms  die 
pride  of  the  laird  or  maftcr,  to  have  his  tenants,  retainers,  and  even  donieika, 
ef  his  own  furname,  many  pf  them  his  near  relations,  and  he  commonly 
treated  them  as  fach.  By  this  means,  his  will  was  uiually  as  lair  to  them; 
bis  honour  their  honour ;  his  interefl  their  intereft.  And,  we  are  aflored, 
where  this  it  flill  the  cafe,  the  fame  is  ftill  the  cfTedi.  But  where  the  catifea 
aie  changed,  it  will  not  feem  ftrange,  that  the  confequentes  are  alfo  diffcreoc 
And  however  this  change,  in  the  minds  of  the  people,  may  affed  iadividnals 
it  is  certainly,  at  prefent^  not  eafy  to  lay,  what,  in  the  long  ran,  its  cficda 
may  be  on  fociety ;  but,  it  is  evidently  much  altering  the  ftate  of  meno 
mind«,  as  well  as  that  of  the  country ;  and  we  earneftly  pray,  it  may,'  in<che 
iffue,  be  equally  beneficial  and  improving  to  both.  With  regard  to  their  re» 
ligious  fenriments,  though  the  people  be  not  lef^  divided,  we  are  happy  to  e^ 
ferve,  they  feem,  in  general,  Icfs  prejudiced  ^;ainft  one  anorber  tbaft  foraaer* 
ly;  which  proceeds,  we  believe,  much*  if  not  entirely,  fiom  the  liberty  •€ 
•pinion,  oar  excellent  Conltitution  lb.  happily  afibrda  to  every  wtU  ioteoa 
Moned  and  rcafonable  man. 


^Bedrnle.  593 

t^  the  fame  fixe :  And  that»  allowing  for  the  dilFerence  of  cli- 
mate in  the  uplands,  the  midlands,  and  the  lowlands,  feed  time 
and  harveft,  the  modes  of  cropping,  and  the  management  of 
black  cattle  and  (beep,  are  nearly  the  fame ;  and  where  there 
happens  to  be  a  diftinf^ion,  that  it  more  commonly  proceeds 
1  from  the  ikill  and  iaduftry  of  individuals,  than  the  general 
''  fyftem  of  cohdu&itig  that  kind  of  bufinefs  in  the  different 
'  pftriflios*  And,  it  is  worthy  of  remark,  that,  with  little  ex- 
ception, the  fame  obfervatlon  applies  to  the  greater  part  of 
this  diftria.  This,  the  writer  trufts,  will  be  alfo  his  apolo- 
gy for  having  been  particular  in  his  account  of  other  things^ 
which  though  in  themfelves,  perhaps,  not  more  interefting^ 
yet,  &on>  thoir  fpecialityy  ^r  having  been  overlooked,. or  but 
fligfatly  noticed  by  others,  he  judged  entitled  to  hit  atten- 
tion. 


f 


Vol.  XV.  4  jC  NVMWUl 


594  Statiftical  Account 

NUMBER   XXVIII. 
PARISH  OF  FbULIS  WESTER. 


(County  op  Perth,  pRESBtT^ltT  o¥  Auchterarder, 
Stkod  of  Perth  and  Stirling.) 


By  the  Rev.  Mr.  Stirlinc>  Minister  cfCrief, 


Natnif  Situation,  Extent^  &c. 


HIS  pari(h  may  take  its  name  from  the  eflate  of  FouUst 
one  of  the  principal  baronies  of  which  it  is  compofed.  The 
parifli  and  eftate  receive  frequently  the  additional  title  of 
Wejter,  to  diilingutfli  them  from-the  parifh  and  eftate  of  Fou< 
lis  Eafler,  alfo  in  Perth(hire,  but  on  the  co?  fines  of  the  coun- 
ty  of  Angus.  Both  thefe  eftates  are  now  the  property  of 
Sir  William  Murray  of  Ochtcrtyre.  The  latter,  however, 
was  not  long  fince  a  part  of  the  eftate  of  Gray,  and  the  for- 
mer was  more  antiently  part  of  the  Earldom  of  Stratheam  \ 
but  fix  or  feven  centuries  ago,  both  of  them  were,  in  all  pro- 
bability, the  property  of  fome  perfon  of  the  name  of  FouHs, 
who  gave  his  family  name  to  his  lands.    The  firft  of  that 

Rame 


OflouUsWeJler.  59S 

name  in  Scotland  is  faid  to  have  come  from  France,  in  the 
reign  of  Malcolm  Canmore ;  and  branches  of  that  family  be- 
came proprietors  of  extenfive  baronies  in  different  counties 
of  Scotland,  which  from  them  ftill  retain  the  name  of  Fcuiis. 
The  word  feems  to  be  derived  from  the  French  y^i////f/,  that 
18,  leaves ;  fo  which  the  three  bay  leaves,  worn  by  perfons  of 
the  name  of  Foulis,  on  their  arms,  apparently  allude.  The 
names  of  moft  places  in  this  part  of  the  country  being  evi- 
dently of  Gaelic  derivation,  fome  have  imagined  Foulis  to 
be  derived  from  the  two  Gaelic  wfytA^fiu  /w,  that  is,  beknu 
the  orchard.  There  is  not,  however,  the  fmalleft  vcftige  of 
an  orchard  near  the  village,  much  lefs  in  the  grounds  above 
it ;  and  had  the  name  been  formed  from  the  words  now 
mentioned,  it  \^ould  probably  have  been  accented  on  the  lafl: 
fyllable,  whereas  the  letter  i  is  no  more  heard  in  the  com- 
mon pronunciation,  than  the  final  e  in  the  vf ord  feuUles. 

This  parifh  lies  in  the  north  Mc  of  Strathearn,  having  that 
of  Crieff  on  the  W.  \  Monzie  N.  W. ;  Little  Dunkeld  N.; 
Moneidie  N.  E. ;  Methven  £. ;  and  on  the  .S.  Maderty, 
from  which  it  is  fcparated  by  the  Poti;,  excepting  %  about  40 
acres  of  Madcrty,  which  are  on  the  north  fide  of  that  river- 
Foulis  is  eight  miks  long,  and  fix  broad.  The  great  road 
from  Perth  to  Crieff,  an  extent  of  1 8  miles,  enters  it  on  the 
eaft  fide,  ten  miles  from  the  former  of  thcfe  towns,  and 
leaves  its  weftern  extremity  within  two  miles  of  the  latter. 

Face  of  the  Country. — ^The  foil  in  general  is  a  red  clay  or 
till,  which  on  fome  of  the  beft  cultivated  farms,  becomes 
black ifh  and  loamy,  by  plenty  of  good  manure.  The  foil  is 
confiderably  deeper  in  the  fouth  than  in  tlie  north  fide  of  the 
parifli.  An  high  ridge  running  from  Eaft  to  Weft  along  the 
top  of  what  is  called  the  braes  of  Foulis,  divides  it  neariy  in- 
to two  equal  parts.  The  lands  on  the  fouth  fide  of  that 
4  G  2  ridge 


59^  Statifikal  Account 

ridge  are  hj  far  the  moll  valu aible,  and  generally  the  beft  cXkU 
dvated.    The  church  ftand^  in  the  centre  of  this  dHttiA, 
and  con|tguoe9  to  it  is  the  Tillage,  containing  44  families, 
who  are  all  lodged  in  poor,  low,  thatched  cottages,  excepting 
the  parochial'  fchooliuafter  and  principal  iim- keeper,  wlk> 
have  each   a  hoiife,  two  ftories  high,  cotered  with  blue 
flate.    The  viUage  can  hardly  be  expelled  to  emerge  from 
Its    obfcurity,    (ince   the  great  road   whkh  lately  paffed 
through  it,  is  now  removed  to  the  lower  grounds^  half  a  mile 
fouchward.  On  the  declivity  of  thehigh  rifinghiids^  400  yards 
weft  from  the  church,  (lands  the  manfe,  which  prefents  a 
very  ezten(ive  profpe£t  to  the  Sofuth,  Eaft,  and  Weft,  and, 
furroundcd  with  wide,  oninclofed  floping  fields  of  moderate 
fertility,  looks  down  on  the  richer  plains  below,  as  veB 
as  on  an  agreeable  variety  of  grown  trees,  yonng  plan«> 
tations,  and  gentlcmens  feats,   which,  fo  far  as  they  ro- 
fpe£l  this    pariO),   (hall    be  noticed  afterwards*       There 
is  not  a  fixth  part  of  the   parilh  inclofed.       The  chkf 
inclofures  are  in  the  South  and  South  £nft  quarters  \   moft 
of  them  are  not  fufficiently  fenced  for  confining  cattle ;   hut 
the  few  that  are  fully  iaclolcd,  can  be  let  for  pafture  at  2 1. 
an  acre  yearly.  .  The  northern  divilion  beyond  thehigh  ridg^ 
above  mentioned,  is  interfered  by  the  river  Ahnond,  whteh 
reaches  the  parifh  at  the  bridge  of  Buchanty,    wadics  it» 
North  border  for  half  a  mile,  and  then  runs  through  it  a 
courfc  of  two  miles' towards  the  Tay^    This  river  abounds 
with  a  fmall  kind  of  trout,  and  200  yards  above  the  bridge  now 
mentioned,  forms  a  curious  cnfccdf^  which  naturally  attrafta 
the  tfaveWers  attention.     From  the  top  of  the  rock  on  tlie 
North  fide  of  t]ic  river  to  the  furface  of  the  water,  where  it 
begins  to  fall,  is  fix  feet,  the  fall  itfelf  is  fevcn,  and  the  pool 
into  which  it  falls  is  ten  feet  deep.  The  bed  of  the  river  be- 
comes deeper  and  more  cofltra£led  as  it  advances  to  the 

britlgp 


ofFoulis  Wester.  597 

Widgc,  whiehconfifts  of  a  finglc  arch  15  feet  wide,  and; 
though  on  a  kvel  with  the  roadv  is  32  feet  high  above  the. 
furface  of  the  water,,  which  there  becomes   14  feet  deep; 
that  is,  while  the  river  is  in  its  (MPdinary  ftacc  aad  not  fweU 
led  by  the  rains    While  ia  this  low  ftate,  ai(b,  the  water  at 
the  caCcade  ia,  by  tlie  projediion  of  a  rock  in  the  middk  of 
the  (Ireaoi,  .divided  into  two  parts^  betwixt  wlikh  it  was  a- 
fual,  fome  time  ago»  to  ha«g  a  creei  or  baiket,  by  means  of 
an  iron  chain,  in  fuch  a  manner  as  to  catch  multitudes  of  a 
kind  of  white  lroi»t»  as  they  were  called,   or  young  falnaon 
Weighing  about  three  potHids  each«     The  fiflies  attempted 
to  overleap 'the  cafcade,  aad  hundreds  that  fucceeded,  ha?e 
by  rods  and  nets  been  taken  above  it  in  a  fummer ;  bat^ 
it  is  believed,  the  far  grciiteft  part,  to  the  amount  of  fomc- 
times  60  in  a  day,  failing  in  the  attempt,  dropt  into  thebaic 
ket  for  the  benefit  of  the  principal  heritor.     This  advantage, 
however,  has  been  entirely  loil  for  ten  years  paft  by  the 
building  of  a  milUdam  at  Cromwell  Park,  in  the  partih  of 
Methven,  fince  whieh,  none  of  that  fpecies  has  been  found 
in  tlus  part  of  the  river*     Excepting  a  few  trees  about  funic 
farm  houfes,  and  a  6cotdi  fir  plantation  of  three  acres,  noth- 
ing appears  to  have  been  planted  en  the  North  Hde  of  the 
river ;  but  the  South  bank  on  the  eftates  of  Abercarney  and 
Goithje,  wss,  at  leaft  30  years  ago,  plants  with  ftripes  of 
coppice  woo^  in  which  afh,  and  efpecially  oak  and  birch 
are  prevalent.     Thefe^  with  the  additions  tnore  lately  made, 
may  extend  to  16  acres*      The  largeil  plantations  forme4 
within  thcfc  1 1  years,  are  on  the  heignts  of  the  ridge  for- 
KieHy  defcribed,  where  fome  hundred  acres  have  been  plan- 
ted with  Scotch' fir,  interfperfcd  with  fome  oak,    birch  and  ^ 
larix. 

The  hills  or  moors  on  both  fides  of  the  Almmid  contain 
ieveral  trads  of  black  mofs>  which  fupply  moft  of  the  peo- 

pic 


598  Statiflical  Account 

pie  with  their  principal  fuel;  but  the  more  induftrioos 
tenants  in  the  South  part  of  the  parUhi  ufe  few  peats  ex- 
cept in  drying  theit  corns  for  the  mill^  choofing  rather  to 
carry  coals  from  Blairhgonet  which  is  twenty  miles  diftant. 
The  ufual  cart  load  is  30  ftones»  Tron  weight ;  diis  they 
purchafe  at  1  s.  {d.  llie  fame  quantity  of  Englifli  or  other 
imj^orted  coal  at  Perth,  would  coft  3  s.,  otherwife  the  eafy 
carriage  thence  would  command  a  preference. 

Heritors^ — ^The  number  of  heritors^  wkh  the  names  and 
comparative  worth  of  their  eftates  within  the  parifti,  wiM 
appear  from  a  view  of  their  ralued  rents  here  ftibjoined.  ' 


HsRlTORi. 

EiT^TCS, 

TAL.  amr. 

Moray  of  Abercarnej, 

Abercamey, 

L«  ,3pi6 

Moncrieff  of  Moncricff,  bart. 

Gorthie, 

1598 

Murray  of  Ochtcrtyre,  bart. 

Fonlis  Wcftcr, 

1500 

Smith,  Lord  Meditcn, 

KetUtf. 

r»7» 

Drummoad  of  Logic  Alfflond» 

I-ogi«, 

J4» 

Maxton  of  Cultoquhey, 

CHlto^vhey^ 

-     ^ 

Robertfon  of  Lawert, 

- 

iiX 

Gramc  of  Inchbrcakic, 

Pitnaclerach, 

Is 

The  whole  nlvcd  rent  iii  -     tm,    85a6SoiCi» 

The  real  rent  will  amount  to  400c  I.  and  is  paid  with  the 
price  of  near  6000  bolls  of  oat  meal  and  barley^  annual- 
ly exported  to  Perth,  CricflF,  and  the  Highlands. 

The  firft  of  thefe  heritors  is  patron  of  the  pariith  and  has 
his  principal  feat  in  it.  The  houfe  of  Abercamey  having 
received  various  additions  in  diflt:rent  ages,  as  fancy  fuggeft- 
ed,  or  convenicncy  required,  is  lefs  remarkable  for  the  efe* 
gance  of  its  architc£)ure,  than  for  the  very  exten&ve  and 
complete  accommodation,  which  it  affords :  But  the  numer- 
ous fenced  fidds>  gardens^  and  plantation^  around  it,  excite 

equally 


of  FouHs  Wejier.  599 

equally  the  ideas  of  ridinefs  and  beactty.  The  imagination 
18  exceedingly -delighted  with  the  appr6ach  devifed  by  the 
prcfent  proprietor,  while,  after  paffing  for  5C0  yards  through ' 
a  brge  plantation,  aleng  the  fide  of  a  deep  den,  in  which  a 
confiderabte  ftfieam  octafionally  appears,  through  the  ovcr- 
ihadowin>g  trfees  J^nd  fiirtibs,  with  which  its  ftccp  banks  arc 
plentifully  ftorcd,  and  then  retiring  obliquely  300  yards  far- 
ther under  a  (hady  grorc,  it  pt efents  in  fucceflion  to  the  » 
Tiew,  the  wide  Hoping  lawns,  the  venerable  oaks,  the  pleadng 
ca&adeer,  and  fancrfal  lakes,  which  adorn  and  diverfify  the 
fcfenc. 

Near  two  nriles  to  the  North- Weft  of  this  ancient  manGon, 
is  the  houfe  of  Cultoquhey,  thd'feat  of  the  only  other  rcfid- 
ing  heritor,  which,  with  the  delightful  adjoining  wood,  (truck 
the  eye  of  every  traveller  with  peculiar  pleafure,  while  the 
public  road  lay  about  800  yards  diftant  to  the  South.  But 
fince  the  high  way  has  been  condufted  by  the  North  fide  of 
the  houfe,  thefe  beautiful  objeQs  appear  with  lefs  advantage. 

Bcfides  thefe  two,  the  houfe  of  Gorthy  is  the  only  one  in 
the  parifli,  in  which  an  heritor  has  at  lead  occafionally  refid- 
ed  •,  that,  however,  is  now  defolate,  the  cftate  having  lately 
gone  by  purchafe  into  another  family, 

^htiqukiesm^^Ahont  a  mile  Eaft  of  the  church,  on  the  farm 
of  C«ftletoOy  part  of  the  cftate  of  Foulis,  and  on  the  Eaft  fide 
oF  a  den  or  ravine,  which  divides  that  ftom  the  cftate  of  A- 
bercarney,  appear  ^e  remains  of  a  fort  or  caftle,  the  feat  of 
the  ancient  Earl  of  Stratheam.  The  ruins  now  form  a.  gxaf- 
fy  mourity  conftantly  employed  as  a  pafture  field.  Here  re-  . 
fided  MalluA^  Malifius,  or  Malife,  the  firft  £arl  of  Strathearn, 
who  lived  in  the  reign  qf  Alexander  I.  His  gmndfon  Gil- 
bert, in  the  year  1 2oo>  founded  the  monaftery  of  inchaffray, 
whofe  ruixu  ly  contiguous  to  the  South  border  of  this  paridi. 

Befides' 


6oo  Statijiical  Account 

Bcfides  the  firft  Earl  above  mentioned,  there  were  three  <>• 
ther  Earls  of  Strathearn,  who  fiicceeded  eaoh  other,  of  the 
name  of  Malife ;  but]  nope  of  that  family  feem  to  have  aC- 
fumcd  any  fumame.  The  fcTcnth  EarU  alfo  named  Maiifie» 
died  without  iflue»  after  marrying  Joanna,  daughter  of  Sm- 
clair.  Earl  of  Orkney,  who,  in  1320,  waa  concerned  in  a  plot 
againft  Robert  I*  for  which,  according  to  fome  accounts, 
flie  wag  condemned  to  perpetual  imprifonmcnt,  and  the  Earl- 
dom forfeited*  But  Mary,  aunt  of  the  lail  menlioned  Earl, 
had  married  Sir  John  Moray  of  Drumfargard,  who  got  wtth 
her  the  lands  of  Abercarney  and  others.  Her  fon.  Sir  Mau- 
rice  Moray,  is  fald  to  have  been  the  laft  Earl  of  Strathearo, 
and  was,  with  David  11.  and  many  Scotch  noblemen,  taken 
prifoner  at  the  battle  of  Durham,  in  1346*  Hence  the  pre- 
fent  heritor  of  Abercarney^  defcendent  of  the  £dd  Sir  Mau- 
rice  Moray,  is  regarded  as  the  lineal  heir  and  reprefentativc 
of  the  ancient  Earls  of  Stfatheam*. 

Population. — ByDr  Webftei'slift,  in  1755,  the  population 

was  rated  a£            -            -              -  -            1706 

In  17709  tlie  number  of  fouls  was  about  -          1 100 

In  1794,  the  fouls  now  are            -  -                1224 

Males,                -  '                 -  608 

Females,             -                -  -            616 

Births  annually  about             -  -            40 

Burials  do.               -           -  -             a; 

Among  the  head$  of  families  there  are, 


Butchers 

a 

Wrights 

!• 

Fiddlers 

a 

Taylors 

10 

Inn-keepers 

5 

Weavers 

50 

Shop-keepers 

7 

Farnaers 

lotf 

Shoemakers 

-      9 

Befides 

Smiths 

9 

Small  dp. 

Tbt 

qfFouUs  tVesteh  feok 

The  tradefmen  do  not  fully  fupply  the  parifli  with  the 
\commodiUes  in  which  they  deal-  The  weavers,  however^ 
befides  the.  \\xitn  and  coarfe  woollen  (lufis  they  made  for 
the  inh-ibltants,  began^  a  few  years  ago,  to  be  much  employ- 
ed in  >Vorking  Jcrlms^  a  thin  harrow  linen  for  the  Glafgow 
hiarket.  Tais  manufadivre  ceafed  all  at  once,  on  th&  com- 
mencement of  the  war  January  1793  ;  and  as  fuddenly  re- 
vived, about  June  \  794,  on  the  capture  of  fome  of  the  French 
Weft  India  iflands^  and  the  fpeculation  thereby  excited  a> 
knong  th^  Glafgow  traders; 

Farmers^  Agri(fulture. — Of  the  farmers,  ihree  have  (hec^ 
farms  :  The  largeft  of  thefe  contains  1 300  acres,  feeds  6o<i 
Iheep,  and  yields  75  \*  of  yearly  rent.  The  (heep  are  of  the 
black  faced  Linton  breed,  and  of  a  (mall  fize  ;  their  fleeced 
do  not  exceed  two  pounds  weight  each,  and  fell  from  8s» 
to  13  s.  a  (lone;  A  ewe  and  lamb  may  bHng  7  s.  6(1,  and 
a  (heep  at  Michaelmas,  6s;  6d. 

Thofe  in  the  preceding  article  ftiled  Jmall  fairmers,  are  lucli 

as  cannot  yoke  a  plough  without  the  aid  of  their  neighbours^ 

and  generally  pay  dnder  8  1.  each  for  their  pofleilions,  which 

irarely  exceed  8  or  10  acres;      They  are  commonly  either 

'     badefmeh^  or  work  with  a  horfe,  in  buying  and  carrying 

:      hiealj  yarn  and  other  commodities ^     Moft  of  the  other  ten- 

^\   ants  or  farmers  pay  froni  15  h  td  30I. ;  eleveii  from  50I.  td 

•  175  h,  and  oh^  300  1.  of  yearly  rent.  Ttiofe  who  pay  the 
largefi  renis,  give  almofl:  univcrfally  more  for  ah  acre  thatt 

•    thofe  who  pay  fmallcr  fums.     The  rents  per  acre  vary  front 
i  1.  •5  s.  and  upwards,  to   f  5  s«   13  s.  i  o  s.  and  7  s.      Yet 

•  the  mere  circumftance  of  enlarging  the  farms  lis  far  froitt 
oelng  the  fole  catrfe  of  their  paying  more  rent  by  the  acre  ; 
foir  the  higheft  rented  are  fuch  as  have  for  a  long  time  beeil 

. .  broiight  into  the  beft  (fate  of  cultivation,  and  have  alfo  ge^ 
Vol.  XV.  4  H  nertlly 


5o2  Statijlical  Account 

netally  the  bed  natural  foil ;  whereas,  all  the  farms  that  paf 
a  low  rent  per  acse,  have  dill  a  confiderable  quantity  of 
ground  either  wafte  or  very  little  cultivated.  The  richefi: 
lands  are  in  the  South  £a(l  quarter  of  the  partfb^  efpecially 
fuch  as  are  liable  to  be  overflowed  by*  the  water  of  the  P^w, 
or  had  been  formerly  covered  with  it  before  the  drain  wa» 
formed.  Of  thefe,  there  may  be  fome  hundred  acres/ fo  en- 
riched with  mud  and  flime,  as  conftantly  to  yield  plentiful 
crops  without  any  manure,  provided  the  feafon  be  modern-  ^ 
tely  dry.  Tradition  fays,  36  bolb  of  oats  have  been  pro- 
duced on  an  acre  of  that  riched  land  ;  thiS|  however,  is  much 
doubted,  as  thd  greateft  quantity  produced  of  late  years  is 
16  bolls,  and  that  too  very  rarely,  and  only  when  the  fea« 
fon  is  peculiarly  favourable ;  for  the  average  produce  of  the 
beft  land  cannot  be  reckoned  more  than  8^  or  9  bolM  E- 
ven  this  very  rich  land  requires  a  boU  of  feed  to  an  acre ; 
for  though  a  few  pecks  will  fill  the  ground  with  ftraw,  yet 
thin  fowing  never  ripens  equally,  and  if  very  thin,  the  great- 
eft  part  will  not  ripen  at  all* 

On  an  acre  of  ordinary  good  dry  land,  5  firlots,  or  rather 
1 8  pecks  of  oats  are  fown ;  of  bear  or  barley,  fometimes  10, 
but  more  frequently  12  pecks.  The  produce  of  the  oats  is 
5,  and  of  the  barley  6  bolls,  at  an  average.  A  crop  of  clo* 
ver  and  rye-grafs  yields  from  100  to  250  ftones  of  hay,  which 
in  Auguft  may  fell  at  4d.  in  the  following  April,  May,  or 
June,  fome  times  at  lod.  a  ilone ;  but  the  average  price  for 
a  courfe  of  years,  is  5fJ.  The  moft  common  mode  of  rctiH 
tion  of  crops  obferved  by  the  beft  farmers  on  the  richeft  lands 
is,  I.  oats ;  2.  green  crop  of  turnip  or  potatoes ;  '^^  barley  and 
grafs  feeds-,  4*  hay,  5.  pnfture.  On  lands  of  inferior  qua- 
lity the  modes  are  exceedingly  various,  but  the  moft  com-^ 
mon,  is,  i.  oats  ;  2.  bailey  -,  3.  green  crop  with  dung ;  4*'bar' 
ley  with  grafs  feeds  \  5^hay :  6.  and  7.  paifturc.    The  chief 

manures 


OflouUs  Wejlev.         ,  603 

manures  are  (hell-marlej  when  it  can  be  obtained^  andlime ; 
but  three  times  more  lime  is  ufed  than  marie.     Formerly 
thefc  manures  were  mod  commonly  laid  on  while  a  field  was 
in  grafs  ;  but  of  late  years  mucli  more  generally  on  fummer 
fallow  ;  and  the  liming  or  marling  is  repeated  after  ten,  or 
at  moft  twelve  years*     The  foil  being  generally  heavy,  an 
acre  requires  from  60  to  9Q  bolls  of  marie  \  70  may  be  the  a- 
verage,  but  the  greatcft  quantity  has  been  found  moft  profit- 
able.     The  marie  a  few  years  ago  was  got  within  a  mile  or 
two,  at  6d.  a  boll,  and  then  2000  bolls  liave  in  one  year  been   . 
carried  to  a  farm  of  lefs  than  150  acres,  and  1500  with  150 
of  lime  to  another.    That  fund,  however,  is  now  exhaufted, 
and  maile  at  lod.  s^-boll,  muft  be  got  at  6  miles  diftance. 
At  Perth  may  be  bought  Engliih  lime  at  28  ;  Burntiiland  at  2s* 
2d  i  or  Lord  Elgin^s  at  is.  pd.  all  wheat  meafure,  of  which  a 
fingle  horfe  cart  carries  3  bolls.  From  24  to  40  bolls  of  (hells, 
that  is,  unflacked  lime,  are  laid  ou  an  acre,  and  1500  bolls  arc 
laid  to  have  been  carried  in  a  year  to  ono  of  the  largeft  farms 
of  near  300  acres.  Perhaps  the  beft  managed  farms  are  fuch 
as  extend  from  120  to  200  acres.     On  one  of  150  may  be 
kept  eight  work  horfes,  three  or  four  young  ones,  and  be- 
tween 40  and  50  black  cattle,  old  and  young.    The  Value  of 
a  draught  horfe  is  from  15].  to  25].     Four  were  generally 
yoked  in  a  plough,  20  years  ago  \   bu^  two  horfe  ploughs 
now  almoft  univerfally  prevail,  and  fingle  horfe  carts  are  pre- 
ferred to  double  ones.  Few  of  the  cattle  were  fed  for  daugh- 
ter) moft  of  them  are  fold  under  3  or  4  years  old  \  ^nd  8  or 
10,  value  4I.  or  5I.  each,  are  kept  as  milk  cows :  And  as  the 
<alves  are  all  reared,  and  others  purchafcd  inftead  of  fuch  as 
happen  to  die,  the  butter  and  cheefe  fold  from  one  cow,  can- 
not exceed  lU  yearly.  A  farm  of  this  fize  requires  four  men. 
two  boys,  and  two  female  fervants.  The  year's  fee  of  a  prin- 
cipal man  fervant  is  lol.  \  that  of  an  inferior  mani  7l«  or  81. 

4G  3 


^Q4t  Statijlkal  Account 

to  bQV*»^  from  il.  to  3I. ;  a  female  fcrvant's,  ll.  fos  or  3I, 
with  the  produce  of  a  lippie  of  lintfecd  foiirn.  A  confidera- 
blc  number  of  additional  fervants  is  neccflary  in  harveft ;  a 
man  fhcarer  in  that  fcafon  gains  il^  los.  or  2I. ;  and  a  wo-, 
man.  i8s«  or  1 1.  Many  farmers  have  what  are  called  cottars^ 
to  whom  they  give  a  cottage  and  fmall  garden,  with  fomc- 
times  an  acre  of  land,  and  a  cow's  grafs,  for  which  the  cottar 
pays  3].  or  4I.  if  he  has  two  acres  \  and  1  os-  niore,  if  his  land  is 
ploughed  by  the  tenant.  But  no  cottar  gets  any  land  except 
on  condition  of  working  with  the  farmer  for  reafonable  wages, 
whenever  required,  efpecially  in  harveft.  Such  a  farmer's  fa- 
mily as  that  now  defcribed,  feed  chiefly  on  oat  meal,  barky 
meal,  potatoes,  milk  and  cheefe.  What  animal  food  they 
ufe  is  from  Michaelmafs  to  Whitfunday,  and  conGfts  of  one 
bullock  falted  for  winter  beef,  one  hog  in  fpring,  and  between 
20  and  24  quarters  of  mutton  purchafed  occafionally  througl^ 
the  year.  Though  the  tenants  are  ^11  decently  clothed,  an4 
their  circumftances,  upon  the  whole,  tolerably  eafy  and  mote 
plentiful  than  formerly  \  yet  they  are  far  ftom  being  affluent, 
or  in  a  Gtuation  that  raifes  them  above  th^  neccflity  of  ma- 
;iual  labour.  It  is  fomewhat  furprizing  that  there  is  not  in 
the  parifli  a  tenant,  though  paying  i  ool.  or  even  300I.  of 
yearly  rent,'  that  a£ls  merely  as  a  direftor  and  over-feer  of 
liis  fervants ;  but  all  of  them,  fo  far  as'  health  and  ftrength 
allow,  work  proportionably  with  their  own  hands  Ihe  la* 
bour,  the  rents,  and  all  the  expences  of  the  tenants,  are  dou- 
ble what  they  were  25  years  ago.  Then  a  principal  man  fcr- 
vant  had  only  41,  10s.  or  at  mod  51.  an  Inferior  man  2I.  los. 
pr  3I.  and  a  female  fervant  il.  or  fl.  5s.  Since,  however, 
(uperior  flcill  and  induftry  now  laife  a  crop  of  double  value, 
^ey,  as  well  as  the  public,  are  real  gainers  by  the  improvc- 
^ptients  lately  attained.  T^^ey  have  alfo  the  unfpeakable  ad- 
yai\tage  of  being  more  fecure  and  independent  by  the  leafe^ 

whi^l^ 


%fToulisWefler.  (So  J 

which  all  of  them  now  hoW,  and  arc  commonly  granted  fot 
^'9  years  5  and  likewife  by  their  releafe  from  various  burdens^ 
.formerly  impofed.  Qn  feveral  of  the  greateft  cftatcs,  the  te- 
'  nants  were  then,  or  a  few  years  earlier,  bound  to  carry  out  the 
dung,  to  plow  and  harrow  all  the  lands  poffefled  by  the  he- 
ritor (whom  they  all  called,  and  (till  through  habit  call  their 
mailer,  but  more  frequently  the  laird)  to  cut,  dry,  and  carry 
home  his  peats,  and  all  the  coals  ufed  by  his  family  ;  to  cut^ 
win,  and  ilack  his  hay  \  to  cut  down,  carry  home,  and  (lact^ 
corns ;  to  carry  bark  nnd  farm  meal  to  any  unlimited  diftancc 
where  the  faftor  fold  thcfe  articles,  but  rarely  above  12  or  20s 
miles  -,  to  go  each  in  their  turn  with  a  horfe  or  care  ^0  Pertli 
or  Crief,  or  longer  journies  when  required,  and  all  at  their 
pwn  change,  without  any  allowance  of  food  for  man  or  bcaft. 
Thefe  fcrviqes  were  emphatically  (tiled  bondage^  particular- 
ly the  manual  labour  at  peats,  hay,  and  harveft ;  working 
with  a  horfe  was  called  carriage  \  and  thefe  two  fpecies  of 
labour,  were,  in  the  o}d  tack,  diftinguiQied  by  the  names  of 
barrage  and  carrage.  One  heritor  has  fome  of  his  tenants 
{till  bound  to  part  of  thefe  fervices,  fuch  as  winning  and 
(lacking  hay,  (hearing  in  harveft,  and  carrying  coals  and 
lime  to  a  certain  extent  •,  but  the  other  heritors  require  no 
fervices,  except  the  carriage  of  coals  and  bark  Moft  of  the 
(enants  are  now  likewife  releafed  from  the-fervitude  of  ihlr^ 
tpge^  by  which  they  were  obliged  to  grind  at  a  particular 
iniln,  and  ta  pay  very  high  duties.  There  are  five  corn 
xnilns  in  the  pariih,  belonging  to  different  heritors,  and  each 
heritor  has.  relieved  his  own  tenants  from  the  high  duties,^ 
pn  dividing  among  them  the  old  miln  rent.  To  thefe  th& 
miln  duties  amount  to  about  the  joth  peck  ;  a  few  tenants 
^at  are  flill  bound  to  a  miln  on  another  eftatCi  pay  at  lead 
-  \  twelfth  part  of  what  they  grind  at  it. 

As 


6o^  ^tatiftical  Account 

As  the  foil  is  generally  too  cold  and  moifty  and  the  gr^Ui 

therefore  ripens  flowly,  the  tenants  are  liable  to  fuffer  im- 
mcnfe  lofs  by  a  rainy  feafon.  Thus,  in  1 792,  the  whole  crop 
could  only  pay  that  fmaller  portion  of  the  rent  that  is  ofualr 
ly  paid  in  meal :  and  though  fome  fold  a  few  bolls  out  of 
the  parifh  that  year,  twice  as  much  was  purv:hafed  by  othtf 
tenants  for  domeftic  confu^ipt. 

^tarries  — ^The  houfes  of  the  tenants  are  generally  one 
ftory  high,  thatched  with  ftraw.  Two  farm  houfes  of  one 
ilory,  and  four  of  two  ftories  high,  are  covered  with  blue 
flate ;  and  two  of  one  ftory,  with,  grey  Date.  It  might  be 
expefted  that  many  more  would  have  flatcd  roofs,  fince  both 
kinds  of  flate  now  mentioned  arc  found  in  the  parifti.  On 
the  eftate  of  Logiealmond,  is  a  valuable  blue  flate  quarry,  let 
at  50  guineas  yearly ;  from  which  500,000  flates  are  fuppof- 
ed  to' be  fold  annually,  at  13s.  4d.  the  thoufand.  On  the 
lands  of  Abcrcarncy  and  Foulis,  are  quarries  of  grey  flate, 
that  is,  a  kind  of  light  brown  freeftone,  which  rifes  in  broad 
ftclvcs,  of  an  inch  thick,  is  eafily  cut  with  the  flater's  knife, 
and  jmakcs  a  pretty  good,  though  heavy  roof.  As  thefe 
quarries  were  never  wrought  to  any  great  extent^  no  rent  is 
paid  for  them,  but  a  thoufand  flates  may  be  quarried  for  il. 
I  OS.  which  will  cover  as  much  of  a  roof  as  61.  value  of  the 
*  blue  flate  above  mentioned.  That  roof,  however,  will  be 
greatly  inferior  in  elegance  and  duration.  Near  the  entry 
to  the  houfe  of  Abercarncy,  is  an  inexhauftible  quarry,  of  a 
beautiful  and  excellent  (lone  for  building  ;  and,  on  the  Cul« 
toquhey  eftate,  is  a  quarry  of  the  beft  ftpne  for  pavement  in 
all  the  country,  which  being  foft  wliile  in  its  natural  moift 
ftate,  fliapes  eafily,  and  20  years  ago,  might  be  quarried,  cut, 
«;;d  laid  at  2d.  a  foot  \  but  the  price  is  now  nearly  doubled. 


t)ffwlis  Wetter.  607     ' 

Highway — ^The  greateft  improvemeilt  lately  made  in  the 
parifli,  is  the  conftruftion  of  the  new  line  of  road  leading 
through  it  from  Perth  to  Crieff,  which  is  every  where  at  leaft 
35  feet  broad,  and  has  in  no  part  a  greater  rife  than  of  one 
foot  in  50.  Whdteas,  the  old  line,  which  led  clofe  by  the 
cTiurch,  and  over  the  brae  of  Foulis,  frequently  rofc  at  tjic 
tate  of  more  than  one  in  ten  feet.  The  making  of  this  new 
road,  from  Mcthven  to  Gowan  hill,  in  this  pariftr,  coft  adoL 
each  mile,  arid  from  that  point  weftvmrd,  239I.  ;  befides 
bridges,  the  largeft  of  which  is  not  yet  founded ;  «nd  the 
f mallet  ones  have  been  executed  at  il.  each  foot  in  width : 
befides  alfo  the  filling  up  of  dens  or  ravines,  the  largeft  of 
which  alone  coft  130I.  Where  the  bottom  is  beft,  or  mate- 
rials neareft,  it  may  be  kept  in  repair  at  2I.  a  mile  ;  but  the 
greateft  part  of  it  is  to  be  upheld  three  years,  at  4I.  a  mile 
annually.  The  expence  of  making  has  been  fo  great,  and 
the  refort  of  travellers  hitherto  fo  fmall,  that  the  duties  col- 
le£ted  at  the  toll-bar,  firft  ercftcd  in  1793,  though  fome-- 
what  higher  than  in  other  counties  of  Scotland j  are  not  fuf* 
ficicnt  to  pay  the  interefts  of  the  fums  expended. 

Poor^  Religion^  CkaraHer, — ^The  poor,  who  are  under  the 
neceffity  of  begging,  are  not  very  numerous  5  but  no  ftatcd  ' 
contribution,  nor  any  affeflmcnt  being  made  by  the  heritors 
for  their  fupport,  they  cannot  be  fufficiently  fupplicd,  or 
begging  prevented,  by  the  fmall  funds  allotted  to  their  ufeC 
Thofe  confift  of  the  colleftions  at  the  church  door,  amount- 
ing to  3s.  weekly ;  28.  from  every  bride  in  the  parifii  5  and 
the  annual  rent  of  70I.  By  far  the  greateft  number  of  beg- 
gars come  from  other  pariflies.  There  are  commonly  twa 
fchools,  befides  that  of  the  parochial  fchoolmafter.  He  has^ 
from  the  heritors-  200  merks  Scots  of  falary,  with  a  free 
houfe'  and  garden.     His  vrages  from  the  fcholars  may 

be 


66^  Statiftical  Acconnt 

be  at  an  average  is.  6d.  a  quarter  ^  and  his  emolumcnis 
as  feffion  clerk  do  not  exceed  4K  annuilly.  The  mi- 
hifter,  befides  a  manfe  and  a  glebe  of  feven  acres,  has  be- 
tween 70I.  and  Sol.  of  ftiped  j  iAie  pre-fent  incumbent,  how- 
ever, being  poflcfled  of  heritable  property  in  a  neighbouring 
pariQi,  and  having  the  comfort  of  his  parifhioners  much  at 
hearty  chatges  hiir^felf  with  the  mainttinance  of  an  ailiftant 
for  their  fatisfadion ;  while  at  the  fame  tiipe  h^  has  never 
(hewn  the  lead  reludance  to  the  perfonal  difcbarge  of  every 
part  of  the  miniftcrial  oflSce.  The  people,  therefore,  are  u- 
taiverfally  attached  to  the  Ertabliftcd  Church,  except  nine  fa^ 
milies,  whole  heads  and  children  are  Antiburghers,  except 
alfo  the  two  refiding  heritors,  who  are  of  the  Epifcopal  com- 
hi union.  Were  thefe  heritors  of  the  fame  religious  profefc 
Eon  as  the  vulgar,  it  would  probably  be  the  occafion  of  remo- 
ving a  grievance  of  which  the  people  have  long  witK  top  mu(!h 
jreafon  complained — ^that  no  care  is  talccn  to  render  the  paro- 
chial church  decent  or  commodious*  The  walls  and  roof,  in- 
deed, are  kept  itl  tolerably  good  icpair }  but  it  is  badly  lights 
cd,  and  the  feats  and  galleries  have,  for  many  years,  been  in 
M  very  ruinous  coiidition^  The  people  are  in  genenal  devout 
as  well  as  fober  and  indudrious,  lovers  of  peace,  and  well  af- 
fefted  to  government.  If,  in  any  inilahce,  they  have  mani- 
fefted  rather  lefs  zeal  than  fome  othef s  for  the  fupptfrt  of  law 
knd  good  order,  fuch  apparent  cdolnefs  is  by  no  means  to  be 
attributed  to  any  difcontcntment  with  our  happy  Conftitu- 
tion  ;  but  merely  to  an  averfion  at  any  avocation  which  they 
apprehend  might  interfere  with  that  clofc  application  to  their 
own  proper  employments,  which  through  their  habits  and  cir- 
cumliances  they  find  both  agreeable  and  neceffiry. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  northern  half  of  the  parifh  com- 
Inonly  ufe  among  themfelves  the  Gaelic  tongue  \  all  of  them* 
howevoTj  can  fpeak  £ngli{h|  which  is  the  only  language  fpo^ 


Jtoulis  Wejlctk  1509 

keh  bt  underftood  on  the  fouth  fide  of  the  hilh  Though 
there  are  no  remarkable  inftances  of  longevityi  yet  the  peo- 
ple in  general  are  abundantly  healthy.  Confumptions  fome* 
times  occur,  and  the  jaundice  has  been  more  frequent  of  latd 
than  ever  known ;  but  agues,  which  were  very  {prevalent  20 
years  ago^  have,  for  a  long  while,  entirely  difappeared. 

There  is  at  Fowlis,  on  the  6th  of  November  annually,  % 
market  for  black  cattle.  About  1000  may  be  prefented  fof 
lale,  and  a  third  part  of  them  fuppofisd  ready  for  flattghter> 


Vol.  XV.  4  I  NUMBER 


6 1  o  Statiftical  Account 

NUMBER   XXIX. 

PARISH  OF  AVOCH. 

(Presbytery  of  Chanonrt,  Stkod  and  CoUkVv  of  ft'osls.) 

By  the  Rev.  Mr  James  Smith. 

„   ,   •  ■  ■■  ■- "  •'■'■>'i'-- — 

Na$tti^  Situation^  Extent^  &c. 


In  old  records,  the  name  is  vfntJUt^  Aimcbrat  utH^b>  .  his 

'commonly  pronounced  Aucb*    The  moft  probable  jicrivBticm 

is  from  a  Gaelic  word,  fignifying  a  ford  or Jha/Iow  wa^Bt^  For 

the  bay,  oppofite  to  the  patifh  church,  beinj;  mottrAMow^ 

At  tide  flows  and  recedes*  iarthei>  than  ifi  anybthdf  fhrt  ef 

this  fide  of  the  Moray  Frith,  between  the  bays  of  Crootarcy 

atid  Munlochy.    This  parlCh  is  rit^t^d'in  the  picfVybvy/bf 

Chanonry,  in  the  fytjod  and  county  of  R-ofs*  It  i«^n»ft'o*  the 

eight  parMhcs  comprehended  v^ithin  the  aricietit  liifMAof 

Ardmeanac^f  or  the  Black  lj%\  fo  calkt],  becauCttln  "khAh 

to'ate  a  peninfula,  .of  which  the  grCartr  pafrteoff&iufeflSU 

black  uncultivated  moor,  though  a  go<)d  dc»I  hn^b^npliint- 

e4  and  improved  of  late. 

Av  och 


of  AwcK  6x1 

Avoch  extendi  about  a^  Englifli  miles  from  Eaft  to  Weft, 
and  4  from  fSouth  to  North,  and  is  nearly  of  a  rhoimboidal 
form.  It  ie  boundci  by  the- parifli ,  of  Rpfemarky  towards 
tiie  Eaft ;  by  the  Moray  Frith  and  that  branch  of  fame  Frith 
called  Munlochy  bay,  on  the  South-Eaft,  bouth,  and  South- 
Weft  ;  by  the  ^nitod  p^ifres  of  Kilmuir  Wcftcr  and  Suddie, 
on  ihe  Weft  \  by  Urqiihart  or  Ferrintolh  on  the  North  Wtft, 
and  by  the  united  parifties  of  Cullicudden  and  Kirkmichaei 
on  the  North.  Jt  marches  with  thefe  laft  on  the  large  hill 
called  Mulbuy,  which  extends  nearly  the  whole  length  of  the 
Black  Ifle,  from  Cromarty  to  Beauley. 

Surface  and  Soih — This  parifh  condfts  chiefly  of  two  Vidges 
of  hills,  of  a  moderate  altitude,  and  pretty  broad  on  the  top, 
running  nearly  parallel  to  each  other,  in  a  dire£^'ion  from  Eaik 
to  Weit,  with  a  gently  (loping  vale  on  the  North  fide  of  each, 
and  part  of  the  Mullbuy,  formerly  mentioned,  rifing  behind 
all  thefe  towards  the  North.  So  that  it  prefents,  in  a  manner, 
three  banks  or  faces  to  the  beneficial  influence  of  the  fouth- 
em  fun,  and  enjoys  all  the  varities  and  advantages  of  hill  and 
dak  :  Tbc'  foiitheni  cxpofiiretf  being  in  general  beft  adaptfd 
for  coinpf arms';  the  northern,  for  wood,  and  the  valleys,  for 
psiftare. 

'  Alrtioft  every  variety  .of  foil  i$  to  be  met  with  here.  To- 
wards ihcfhore  it  is  light  and  iandy,  as  ufua),  particubrly 
in  fomie>of  the  lawyer  grounds  near  the  hay  and  fea  town  of 
Avod);  whcrei  on  digging  two  or  three  feet  deep,  a  ftra- 
tUin..of  fea  (hells  h^s  been  found  in.diilercnt  places.  This 
would  fcem  tA  indicaic  that  the  Frith  had  once  oyer- flov/cd 
thdfc  grounds  ta  a  faf ther  extent  that  it  ever  docs. now.  To 
the  We(bward  of  this^  on  both  fides  of  the  Southern  v..le,  the 
foil  is  generally  a  Kght  loam,  or  loam  mixed  wit!)  clay,  fcr- 

4  I  2  tile 


6 1  %  StatiJHcal  Jccouni 

tile  enough*  Farther  Weft^  there  is  a  deep  rich  clajr^  parti* 
cularly  oq  that  fine  ettenfivc  bank  of  tke  MnHmyy  called 
Anchtetflovr.  In  the  Northern  vale,  tbci«  is  a  go^d  deal  of 
rnofsy  on  a  tillj  or  clay  bottonii  of  a  bad  quality  and  generals 
ly  wet,  which  can  fcarcely  be  cultivated  to  advantage.  The 
hill  tops  coniift  chiefly  of  a  black  fandy  foil,  covered  with 
poor  (hort  heathy  and  ti  few  moor  ftones  intermixedji  much 
better  adapted  for  plantations  of  the  Scots  fir,  than  for  paf- 
turage. 

Ctfwtf/r^-T-The  air  is  generaljy  .dry  and  l^^^Uhy*  thqqgh^ 
comparatively,  fpcaking^  few  of  the  iobabiuots  attain  to^ld 
$ige«  Btitthis  feertis  more  owing -to  their  ha[btt8t>f  iifei  fhan 
to  the  climate,  No  difcafe  can  be  faid  to  be  particulary  pre- 
valent. Fevers  and  the  fmall-pox  have,  indeedi  at  .times» 
made  con£deraU«  ravages^  Th«s»  JMiwcy^r*  can.  he  fa£ly  ac- 
counted for,  from  the  people's  want  of  cle^niinefty  and  their 
exccflive  ulc  of  fpiritual  Kquors.  ' 

Sea  Qoa/fy — its  Advantages  and  Praduci ions* — The  Korthcrn 
par^  pf  Scotland  derives  many  advantagps^rooi  dvofc  beauti- 
ful arms  of  the  fea,  with  which  it  is  iutetfeded.  Of  thefi^ 
the  pariQi  of  Avoch  is  not  without  its  (hare.  The  frith 
Wafliing  it  nearly  on  two  fides,  makes  the  air  much  more 
faJubriousj  without  thofe  fogs  and  that  piercing  coldncfs, 
which  the  inhabitants  of  the  £aft  coaft  of  Scotland  complain 
of,  from  the  neighbourhood  of  the  German  Ocean.  It  alCd 
makes  the  fnows  fooncr  melt  in  winter  %  and  prevents  immo- 
derate heat  in  fummer,by  that  agreeable  and  refrcflnng cool- 
nefs,  which  every  flowing  of  the  tide  fends  forth.  It  affonJ.s 
Hkewife  employment  for  many  of  the  inhabiuats>  and^adds 
to  the  proviflon  of  the  whole,  t  • 

Springt^  &C. 
^  On  one  half  of  (he  ba^  of  Ayogh,  from  the  Craig  Bura,  (which  di« 


of  AvQcb.  613 

Springs  istc.^^  There  ie  gre^at  »atfuiidanco  o£  exoclknt 
fprings.tfarottgbowe  alltk&S'paviA.  'Some  of  .them  have  a 
mivittil  tmt ;  bis*  hftvc  bq«  become  remarkable  for  the  cttre 
of  any  difeafes^     A  well,  called  Cra^guck^  iiTamg  from  11 

'  ■'     reck 

videt  this  parHh  from  Fortrofis  ar4  Kofemarky )  tQllic  eaft  eii4of  t^  ^:stAwn 
of  Avoc^  jhe  coaft  is  high  and  roky.  But  few  ,gf  thofc  locks  extend  ir«to 
tlie  Tea,  fo  m  to  be  dangerous  for  boats  :  And  there  is  for  the  moft  part  a  fine 
ioh  beach  at  the  foot  of  them.  From  thence  to  Cailletown  Point,  the  Iho'te 
is  Hat  and  fandjr.  There  is  good  anchorage  for  fhtpping ;  and  veflcls  of  from 
40  to  ICO  ttikt  tnky  )ie  td'fafely  on  thcSeatoWn  beach,  to  ddlver  and  deceive 
carg«e«,  unkfi  there  ke  a^oog  ^le  Svom  9oucKor  SMrh^EafL  -  Pioa,  Ca£. 
tletown  Point  ^ftivftfd  to  th^  n>outfi  «f  l^^chy  bay,  the  cc^ij  is  bold 
^nd  rocVy,  and. there  is  more  dcp^h  of  water,  Aio^  the  fi^id  bay  to  the 
wei)crn  boundary  of  this  panih,  it  is  generally  high,  and  confiils  of  fand  and 
gravel,  with  ibme  large  rocXs  intcrfpcrfc^.         '  .      •  i       ■ 

£^^  AoiV  i^ck4  hi^ef  tHH^  vttf  Iidvam»g8«u^  *  V^  ih  ^nlochy  Uf 
thecs'is •!«»  cxijeUcmt; fqniirry;  of  hard  r«d^Iih'^«eeA<9heir<4eCrf]ib|r.ta| bofM4.«o 
the  water- edge.  Out  of  this  quarry  almoft  the  Mrholc  of  the  csfcpfiTQ  ivork» 
of  Fort  George  were  built.  The  late  Mr  Mathefon  of  Bennetsfield, proprie- 
tor of  the  ^roundfi,  Itt  the  quarry  to  Goyemmem,  or  to  the  undertaker  cm* 
ployed  by  Government,  at  the  fmall  fum  of  lol.  a-year,  while  l)iat  fortifica- 
tion was  goitag  ctt,  A'chttp  rontraid,  indeed,' if  We  conlMef  eHe  imfa^cnfb 
quaiiUtyiP  matetii)  ftmiOicd^  Fbf  20  or  jtr  bmtf,  Icfidb  (ki^nh^tipti 
ffff^conftliitly  cinpfeoye^in  cot^nyiogit.  '     i,    p  '>.r     uU 

The  quAT'y  I*  now  wrou{;ht  chifBy  for  builders  at  InTcrnefs,  >^licy 
though  there  be  5  or  6  milc^  of  water-carriage,  find  this  their  eafieil  fupply. 
And  two  boats  of  10  br  xi  tons  burdeti  each,  are  allAoft  dAity  ^gagcd  iii'the' 
bufinefs';  y^M&i,  triththt  ^iri^ing-lyoA,  yWlds  a  pHfttty^Dod^bOftenck! 
Ctf  dgUt  or  tan  £«iAilteiiBtths^  puifli,  befite  a  icoti  or  fp^fit  vi  tikout  yH, 
Sbu^iBg  yearly,  to> tba  propi;i<ior>  A  boat's  cargo  of  th«  iloae  fctohei  a^  ^  lu 
vcrncf^  16a.  or  x;s.  -  j 

The  Moray  Frith  at  Avoch,  h  about  four  miles  broad.  And  a  finer  ba« 
fon'^tf 'fcarcely  (6  be  fcciiin  the  North.  To  an  dftffnrcr  on  this  ft  ore  it 'has 
all  the  appcarant*  of  a  fa(^auti^1  lake.  For  CftMdirf  pohu'fraav  the  Nutth, 
and  that  of  Ardcrficr  from  the  SoutltEafl^  .^ppefir  IJkq  ptpjof^cd  arif^  M> 
cj^.(p  each  otlier,  and  to  break  oifits  connexion  with  the  fca,  while  the  point 
of  Invctnefs,  and  the  hills  in  that  neighbourhood,  feem  to  bound  it  in  like 
manner  10  an  oppolitc  dircftion.  The  town  of  In  verm  fs,  at  the  one  end,  and 

Fortroio 


6i4  Statijlical  Account 

rock  near  the  fliorc  of  Bcnnctsfield  is  rcforted  to  ifi  the  month 
of  May,  by  whimfical  or  fuperftittous  pcrfons,  who,  after 
drinking,  commonly  leave  fome  threads  or  rags  tied  to  a  buih 
in  the  neighbourhood*  But  if  they  derive  benefit  from  this, 
it  would  feem  to  be  more  owing  to  their  own  credulity,  than 
to  any  cffeft  of  the  water,  which  difiers  nothing  in  tafte  or 
appearance  from  common. 

In  the  fouthern  vale,  tliere  is  a  fine  rivulet,  called  the  burn 
of  Avoch ;  perhaps  the  largeft  ftream  in  Ardmeanach  5  which 
rifes  moftly  in  this  parifh,  drives  three  corn-mills,  and  emp- 
ties irfelf  into  the  fea  near  the  thurch .  It  produces  the  com- 
mon trout  and  eel.  Its  moath  makes  a'fafe  hafboiir 'of  re- 
treat for  the  fiflung  boats  in  time  of  ftorm :  And  here  a 

good 

jPortrofii  and  Fact  Qcorgctat  tbt  otber,  wid  nnch  <9  tlir  laocifcKp^  Fr^m  a 
boat  in  the  middle  of  the  Fmh,  oppofitc  tb  CuUodeo-ho^if,an^.t^c  h^^ 
Atoch,  the  view  i«  ftill  grander  and  nkore  embeUiflied. 

Since  the  innportant  sera  of  1 746,  the  trade  of  iDverneTs,  and  of  the  other 
towns  on  this  Frith,  has  been  gradually  bctcaling  and  iburifhing.  It  em« 
ploys  npMT  iHftre  than  fix  times  the  f<Mibef  iiunib«r.4f  'toSUU  :  J<iaieio£#hkb 
may  be  fccn  here  pailing  and  repafliffg  almnft  ^Ki^y^^*  .  v.  .   \     . 

,  But  the  chief  benefit  of  chc  Frith  to  ^i«  |>a^,.ff  .tKf  c  ^^f  xhc  ^Fif^ea, 
Here  are  caught  herrings  during  their  feafon ;  whitings,  fluundf n>  fpf^^^j^ 
few  oyfters  and  crabbs,  with  abundance  of  muftlcsi  quilksy  and  fmall  Cry  for 
bail.  Thei-e  might  be  a  Hell  (iihiDg  for  falmon,  near  CafUetown  point :  Bat 
lA  th4  ihore  is  not  altogather  convtrtiieot  for  drawing  the  nit^  ithasiuttlkaa 
ttmcb  cried.  Seqie  fm»U  mMcs^-  pui^>olC<s  and  fni|}<  fiih,  Cffne  VR  Dow.aiyl 
tbflo.  About  30  ycara  ago>  .haddocks  were  fixqu^ily  Cjtught  vithia  a  milq 
of  Avoch.  But  they  have  fince  quite  difappcared.  Thc^  fccm  to  liavc  re- 
treated Eaftward  to  the  wider  parts  of  the  Frith,  toward*  Tarbat  p«bt  a&l  3 
the  toafts  of  Nforay  and  Oiiihncfji.  Nor  have  they  been  go6  the^e  for  ftv^  1 
ral  years  pad  in  fvch  plenty  as  before,  until  this  fummer^  (1^793);  wboi  ^  \ 
fiiherm<m  blve,  had  gopd  fvcpeiiii  u4  ^nn^  U^rm  ^gaip.abft^f^ch«..l90H<l|  4  j 
many  Bay.    .        ;  -       .                                   .<        .      i,     .  .         _  ..  ; 

ThiTc  is  fome  quantity  of  fea  weed  on  diflTcteat  parts  of  the  fhorc.    A  I 

little  of  It  lias  at  times  bctin  burnt  into  kelp.  The  neighbouring  fumerschiefr 
ty  ufc  it  as  a  manure  for  barley.  •:  is  very  beneficial  for  this  porpoft^  ytlH> 
th^r  laid  on  green,  or  rotted  ;r  u";.  dunghill.  { 


ofAvoch.  615 

good  fpecies  of  red  trout  is  taken^  from    15  to  18  inches 

long. 

Minerals, — A  fmall  lake,  called  Scaddin^s  Loch^  near  the 
eaflern  boundary  of  this  parifh^  was  drained  fome  yeras  ago* 
In  its  bed,  a  good  many  peats  have  been  dug  ;  and  under  them 
appear^  a  large  flratum  of  (hell  marie.  It  is  believed,  that 
*  limeftone  alfo  might  be  found,  on  a  proper  fearch,  as  feve- 
ral  pieces  of  it  are  to  be  feen  frequenty  in  the  channel  of 
the  burn.  Free-done  quarries  have  been  wrought  on  dif- 
ferent grounds,  befides  that  in  the  bay  of  Munlochy :  parti- 
calai|:ly>  one  of  a  deep  red  cplour  on  the  farm  of  Arkandeith, 
out  pi  ^hich.it  is  believed  that  the  cathedi^  church  of 
Rofs  at  Chanonry  was  built,  many  centuries  ago ; —  as  a 
conliderable  excavation  has  evidently  been  made,  and  no 
other  rock  of  the  colour  ufed  there^  is  known  in  this  part 
of  the  country. 

State  of  Property. — ^Thcrc  arc  five  heritors ;  but  only  one 
Tefidcs,— Sir  Roderick  M'Kcnzie  of  Scatwell,  Baronet,  pro. 
piietor  of  two  thirds  of  the  parifli. 

His  feat  of  Rofehaugh-houfe  (lands  on  a  beautiful  bank, 
about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  fea,  on  the  north  fide  of  the 
fouthcrn  vale.  It  is  a  modern  edifice,  fubftantially  built  and 
commodious  ;  and  coft  between  3000L  and  4000I.  Sterling. 
li  is  furrounded  by  rich  fields  in  good  cultivation,  all  well 
fenced,  and  flcirted  with  woods  of  different  kinds ;  befidcs 
thefe,  he  has  feveral  thriving  plantations  of  fir,  in  different 
parts  of  this,  and  an  extcnfive  valuable  property  in  other  con- 
tiguous parifiicf  • 

.  Ott  (hdfame  btnk,  about  an  Englifh  mile- to  the  Eaft ward, 
is  the  houfc  of  Avoch,  belonging  to  John  Mackenaie,  Efq; 
whcri*  are  good  grounds,  and  fmall' patches *and  rows  of  a{h, 

'      ^         ^  ■  '  bircfi 


6x6  Stattjlical  Account 

birch  and  Al^der.  But  this  houfe,  and  that  of  Bennetsfieldf 
near  the  South- Weft  corner  of  the  pan(h»  belonging  to  Q)liil 
Mathcfon^  Efq;  have  both  been  allowed  to  f^U  mto  difrcpair, 
as  the  proprietors  of  them  refidc  in  other  parts  of  the  coon* 

One  of  the  fioeft  woods  liere  is  that  called  the  Craig<* 
wood,  •  near  Fortrofe,  belonging  to  Mr  Rofs  of  Cromartyt 
It  contains  caoft  kinds  of  foreft-trees»  beautifully  intermixed, 
on  a  rocky  bank|  by  the  fea.  It  was  all  cut  down  about  30 
years  agd,  for  making  palifadoes  and,  fafclnes  to  Fort  GeorgCi 
when  they  apprehended  a  vifit  from  MonH  Thurot's  £qtta* 
dron.     It  has  fince  grown  up  finely  from  the  roots  anew. 

*  This  wo^  mito  pirt  of  Um  -old  oftaie  oH  Ro(fiuag|^^ducb  belonged 
to  the  hee  celcbntted  Sir  Oeo^gc  A^a^k^nsicy  RingV  AdTocacr*  The  pni- 
pertf  It  iaid  to  have  been  fo  named  from  a  fatall  haugh  condguooa  to  the ' 
bank,  where  a  great  diany  fwcctbrbrt  and  wild  ro!^  ufed  to  grow.  The 
ground  having  been  moftlf  brought  into  tiHag^ihey  ^attub^nlb ovme* 
rout.  On  this  haugh,  along  the  bottom  of  ihc  wobd»^  th€if#d  Ifw^^o^* 
trolc  to  Avoch  :  And  th^t^  can  fcarcely  ^eims^inedra  m^ore  deli<ghtfu]  fam- 
mef  eTcniog't  walk  than  thl8,^whcq^  on  one  lund,  the  Wcften  (up  gikteri 
through  the  trees,r^the  birches  fend  forth  their  fragrance^-iad  m  filkging 
birds  fcrenade  70U ;— and,  on  the  other  hand,  you  behold  the  beautiful  bafoo 
(  before  mentioned,  with  tefleU  and  boats  plying  upon  it  wfth  ^OtteAAvoAt^ 
try.  It'  is  Ciid  that  M«  0««tf<go  <Ma«lieMl»  ^was  fe  fend  irf  liiis  ifr«[&,  mad  ol 
that  on*'  Chanonfy  f ohst.^which  firetcKea  out  1^  aiito  snd  s^half  taKfr  the  lea^ 
'co^i^d  with  ^ott  clofe  gra^s,  «s  fiMMth  •nd'foft  as  a  Caiyet,  tKat  lie  uied 
to  calf  it  rudenefs  and  want  of  tafte  in  aifj^'of  his  friends  Ar  atqosiocSDcet  to 
"tide  on  faorftltttk  along  them.  The  Right  Hon.  James  Ste#&rt  Matkenste, 
-llord  FriTy  Betl,  wlife  fticeeedcd  to  Sh-  O«orge*8  eftate  la  this  cova^,  loM  the 
libii  of  RfliUhtttgh  to  the  hxt  Oeoigo  Rofs,  XTq;  4f  Craouncy*  one  of  the 
moft  ^irited  fmpfoven  hitherto  kaoiwii  in  Ardncanhch.  Mr  RoA  frwe  good 
cmploTmenc  Inany  yeara  to  a  multitode  of  labouring  people' (rou  all  the 
«e{gKboiiring  diftrids.  Bat,  uafortttttately  for  thit  parifb,  he  dici  befiare  he 
could  get  his  pUna  of  improtement  titendcd  fd  far.  "<      .        -r? 

A  few  yetri  ago,  Clpeaan  KemMlh  Mackenfle  ^f  KewAsiMl,  aiidAef  ho> 
f teor«  atitBpted  to  enkrge  the  bcavriifil  fceae  ol  the  Cnug«oad»  «p<ylMtl^> 
his  part  of  the  fame  bank  to  the  weilwatvL  Bbt  aste  locksaadlfe^cielt 
frcvt&ttd  him  freoi  getting  proper  fences  made,  his  young  trees  hwe  been 

meftly 


ofADocK  617 

Agrtcuhurey  &c.-^Though  fome  parts  of  the  parifti  have 
been  mea{urcd,  there  is  no  regular  furvey  or  map  of  the 
whole.  It  is  believed,  however,  io  contain  about  6cob  a- 
crcs.  Of  thefe,  from  1500  to  2060  may  be  under  Cultiva- 
tion. But  the  whole  produce  will  fcldoni  exceed  5000  boH^  ; 
for  amonj?  the  tenants  here,  farming  19  only  in  a  ftate  of  in- 
fancy. It  has  emerged  but  little  from  the  rude  pra6fcice  of 
their  forefathers,  a  hundred  years  ago.  nicirhorfes,  in  ge- 
neral, are  miferabic  poneys  or  garrons,  bougtit  at  from  3!. 
to  j;I.  Dterliiiz,  Cj^ch,. ,  Tlieir  cattle  are  a  little  better  in  pro- 
port^ion ;  but  few  of  tJieir  flieep  arc  worth  above  cs.  per 
head.     So  bleak  and  bare,  indeed,  are  the  hill  tops  and 

'mutrs,  that  trhi«  pariftiHs  very  little  i6al(?tiUied"for  flieep  paf- 
tixrc,  _  Tlieir  impltme^its  of  husbancfry  ate  ecjually  p6or,  ex- 

4»pt  with.-^  i^pY^mow  5;5i^-Afui,^ad  Ip^uft wu^jgjien^.  who,  ha- 
ving go>Aett»p-gation%;.beBtn.  of  jbt«  %(ynk  .  the  %bt  chain 
plottghy'^hh'citrved  mMhaatAi  ^nd' perhsps'  a  ccAap>cart 
cr  twcu  oir  ^  fihaW  #aih'  fd*  6xeh  'on  thfcir  fatm,    Thtrif  o- 

I         ..;     r      ...I.,        ,      ,.t..L.     .      .  .        ^^ 

ib«>tivptfA  Wt4«tefttibn  ilQB]t.t<u]kft««i|awy<m«^:4l  ^  fvni  i  ^d  has,  with 
cm»«np«act'ii4.lAbo(iri  i«ia4«<pur4fii9¥P!  ftw4«!M<m»  jp««r  Uud^.  frbcra  se- 

. ttttiif  ^pd  CvmloB*!  amoofltA  to  fegip  xas.  tP  .$j«.  p«r4b(vc,tK«o^4mg  lathe 
^aliC)^Ml4  iCOipofon^:  )9Kt»  il)  th^nci^MioVrhgod  of  ^Hq  vilbgA»  <if  ^%|pvrn 
andiBiilitoMI,  it^a|iliR>gfiMndfi»mAS44/to  J(^4ii4:iMsi(i«nM&.^ 

:df  ^Vilai^^rtfcfMl.aipiiet^t.tlif  fHU  iD{.^qri|.5W»'SL  %rl^H£jp^ij|^. 

fhers,  who  keep  no  cattlf « aii4  .n^iiil  haye.^  liit^  &^^  ^  ^iSfJfl  ^5jlt«y« 
afld  gpnim  Ivt/tM^'^toliliO^  <•  9«#r  high  f<:m»>  f^M'  o^^tki^i^J^by  anere 

*l^$o|4^ffti{Kf^>l;  th«}p«ri^>  ibiiieii4ia|;«<^8^|;v9  33!^brtte  iji*- 
iNil^asd  900k furling.    Tbc  vaiM4  rem  ii  9>diV^-  ^jv^cpca  (,.,  .,^^,, 


6i  8  Statiftical  Accouni 

tfaer  utenfik  are  coarfe,  being  commonljr  made  by  tbe  tcaantt 
own  hand,  with  the  help  of  fcarcely  any  other  inflnimcnt 
but  the  ax  and  adze,  which  feme  of  them  can  ule  very  dez- 

troufly. 

There  is  no  wheat  raifed  in  this  parifh*  The  prcrailing 
crops  are  oats  and  peafe,  fown  in  April';  and  bear,  or  bear 
and  barley  Intermixed,  Which  they  commonly  fbw  in  May. 
Since  the  year  1782,  ivhen  the  crop  of  oats  in  this  pari(h 
failed  fo  much,  that  fdarcely  any  of  them  were  fit  for  fow. 
ing^again,  early  oatis  of  the  Blainfley  kind  have  been  fown  for 
the  mod  part  on  thd  late  famisi  paniciilarly  by  the  tenants 
of  Auchterflow;  where  they  anfwer  fo  welt,  that  farmers  in 
iimllar  fituations,  over  ill  this  country,  purchafe  from  them 
for  feed.  The  harveft  begins  in  general  about  the  20th  Au- 
guft,  and  ends  in  October,  fooneV  or  later,  according  to  the 
drought  or  wetnefs  of  the  fummer,  and  the  expofure  of  the 
firms.  But  on  fome  grounds  near  the  'ftibre,  the  feafons 
are  perhaps  as  early  as  in  any  corner  of  Scotland.  For  here 
a  few  tenants  fdw  batley  the  firft  or  fecond  week  of  April, 
and  reap  it  frequently  in  the  end  of  7**'y»  ^^  beginning  of 
Auguft.  On  thefe  light  grounds,  a  very  fimplc  rotation  is 
pradifed,  of  barley  and  a  green  crop  aftcrhatelj\  Tlie  green 
crop  is  pdafc  or  potatoes  \  for  turnips,  though  a  better  pre- 
paiative  for  barley,  have  not  yet  been  introduced  by  the  te- 
nantry here. 

In  tlie  higher  and  deeper  grounds^  no  regular  rotation  of 
crops  is  followed,  except  on  the  heritor's  own  farms,  where 
a  good  many  of  the  modern  improvements  aite  pra£lifed 
with  fuccefs. 

The  great  aim  of  the  country  tenants,  is  to  raife  as  much 
bear  and  barley  as  poflible,  which,  finding  a  ready  market 
with  the  highland  diftillers  in  Ferrintofli  and  Redcaflle, 
turns  out  to  be  the  moft  profitable  crop^    Moil  of  thofe  te- 
nants 


f)f  An)Ocb.  619 

nants  faife  alfo  &  little  flax.  But,  as  they  feldom  have  ground 
in  proper  heart  for  it,  it  anfw-ers  poorly  ;  nor  is  there  a  mill 
in  Ardmeanach  for  drefling  it.  About  50  years  ago,  th^ 
culture  of  hemp  was  praftifcd,  to  the  extent  of  from  30  to 
40  acres  in  this  pariHi.  Bat  fiace  the  importation  of  that 
article  has  become  more  frequent,  they  do  not  now  fow  a 
third  part  of  the  former  quantity.  More  than  100  acres  are 
now  planted  yearly  with  potatoes  ;  which,  befides  preparing 
the  land  for  barley,  are  exceedingly  ufeful  in  their  families. 
Clay  is  much  ufed  over  all  this  country  as  a  manure.  They 
mix  it  with  the  dunghills  in  fummer,  and  fpread  it  out  *  on 
their  light  grounds  intended  for  l)arlcy  in  the  fpring.  They 
imagine  it  ha*5  a  good  c(re<fl  in  keeping  out  the  fummer  heat 
and  drought  ftom  hurting  the  roots  of  the  corn.  It  may 
thus  in  fome  meafurc  corrcft  fhe  foil,  but  the  kind  of  clay 
ufed  by  many  of  them,  can  add  very  little  to  the  vegetable 
food  of  plants.  But  the  chief  error  of  thcfe  tenants  is,  that 
they  reft  little  of  their  grounds,  and  thefc  only  when  quite 
worn  out  5  nor  do  they  fow  any  grafs  feeds.  This  obliges 
them  to  fend  off  moft  of  their  cattle  to  remote  highland  glens 
for  the  fummer,  where  they  lofc  many  of  them,  and  their 
growth  is  much  retarded.  What  a  lofs  muft  it  alfo  be  to 
their  farms,  to  be  deprived  of  the  dung  of  thofe  cattle  for  a- 
bout  five  months  of  the  year  ? 

Such  extreme  backwardnefs  in  the  (late  of  farming  here,  it 
occafioned  partly  by  the  tenants  own  obftinacy,  that  they  will 
not  follow  good  example  fet  before  them  by  the  gentlemen 
farmers  ;  partly  by  their  poverty,  as  few  of  them  can  afford. 
to  purchafe  good  utenfils  or  grifs  feeds  ;  but  chiefly  by  the 
hlghnefs  of  their  rents,  the  fcarcltyof  fervants^  and  the  fliort- 
ncfs  of  t))cir  leafcs  :  wi  ich  in  fev/  cafes  exceed  7,  8,  or  15 
years.  ^  Another  bar  to  improvement  is  the  negleft  of  winter 
herding.     For  fr9m  the  end  of  harveft  to  the  middJe  of  A- 

4K2 


620  Staiijlical  Account 

.prii,  the  tenants  cattle  paftare  in  common«  hoi  a  ihaii 
whofe  farm  lies  in  a  warm  fituation,  and  being  in  proper 
heart  produces  good  foggagc^  cannot  hare  the  benefit  thereof 
to  himfelf,  without  either  perpetual  watching  or  indorutcf^ 
which  he  is  not  able  to  aSbrd ;  but  gets  almoft  &c  fubftance 
eaten  out  of  his  grounds,  by  the  neighboiurs  a$A^  Uii* 
til  thefe  obftacles,  or  at  lead  fome  of  chcm^  be  waiKWCil^ 
there  can  be  littlo  hope  of  feeing  agticultmrc  profper  m  llaa 
diftria.  • 

Tha  number  of  horfes  in  the  parifh,  inclfidiilg  .garronsi 
maj  be  about- 250,  of  cattle  4801  «md  fiieep  nearly  6ock    . 

M^ftufaShtrejs^^Tlit  ,*|nrlncipal  branch  confifls  pf  coarfiir 
linen  and  ofoabrug»»  made  entirely  of  flar  railed  hy  tb^.feeH'i 
tnts  themfeWes,  ipon  in  their  hoiili^c^  aftd  woven  withcfl  Alt 
paii(fa4  This  may  bring  in  yearly,  fedtti  ^M],  to  .jpobUiSter-f 
ling;  and  no  foreign  materbl  ig  vequiredi  excepit  a  ^feir 
calks  of  Dutch  lintfeed.  That  is  alio  as  much  httnfimfci 
and  manufa£lurcd  by  the  farmers,  as  fuffices  for  fails  to  the 
fiftiing  boats.  And  the  wool  of  the  few  fiieepi  is  all  na^  tnto 
cloth  and  ftockingsat  heme  for  the  poopies  own  wear.  lAniiHlg 
the  villagers  of  Seatown,  there  is  a  gbodmanul«^bire earned 
on  of  herring  and  fatiAon  nets^  oioftly  ftom  foreif^  hempA 
Befides  fupplying  die  iiibery  here»  they  fell  yearly  from  i^^U 
to  29oh  valtie  of  thefe  to  Catthnefs>  Lochbroomt  and  other 
fiihing  ftatton^  in  the  North.  There  was  formerly  a  flouriflx* 
Ifig  inftiitifafkure  ol  (Hoe^t  fiioin  hides  moftly  drcflcd  at  homri 
which  employed  about  thirty  hands  in  the  finalier  viUag/:aof 
Kirkto^fn,  Millhiii,  and  Miltown^  -But  the  late  lawa»  im- 
t»otJnga  heavy  licenfcdvty  on  taniiera«  have  opera£cd  nearly 
ai  9  pvoUbWnn  to  this  attidej  Soflie  xX  the  fitQemakers 
have  left  the  place,  ethers  hana  heoonie  day  iat^ounera.-  And 
fii«  or  fixi  who  remain  at  vorkj  have  now:nd  appnotices,  nor 

can 


t>f  Avocb.  6tt 

can  they  make  bread  by  it  themlU^s^  owing  to  the  high, 
price  of  leather.        i 

The  imports  into  tMa  pariflf^  conGft  of  fait,  iron^  bempv 
coarfe  clothsv  whifkyi  a  few  grocery  goods,  and  coals.  The 
repeal  of  theiduty  on  coals,  will  be  an  imoienfe  benefit  ia 
future  yeb^^as  tbere  are  few  peats  to  be  got,  and  wood  felU 
tooifaigirfor&uel*. 
The  «acpocts  confift  of  grain,  cattle,  hefrings,  and  the  inanu* 
failures  formerly  mentioned.  Befides  fupplying  its  own  in- 
habitantSy  this  pariOv  difpofes  df  yearly  to  die  neighbouring 
diftillers,  and  the  borghs  of  Fortrofe  and  laTcmeft,  from  800 
to  1000  bolls  bear,  and  from  200  to  400  bolls  of  oats,  peafe, 
and  meal,  including  what  is  fcnt  forth  of  the  TiAual  rents. 
Though  tlve'lail  crops  (179  a)  was  deficient  in  counties  far* 
ther  rSfdud),'  it  was'  Is  plencilui  in  general  throughout  the 
Eaftern  half  of  Rofsi-lbire.atid  Cromarty,  that,  afder  ferving 
the  people *and  the  numerous dUlb,  thofe  diftri&s  have  ex- 
ported ihE  oir  fetKii  thoiiland  heXki 

Poputation.^iyrt.ntaff  yuA^'hmti  conctnting  traditiMs^ 
whei^  no  authentic  «cord  has  been  preferved  \  and  from  a 
wll  known  fad,  that  there  are  a  third  more  dwcHiiig  houft^ 
now  in  the  patifh  af  Av)(>ch,  than  in  the  beginning  of  this 
century,  .the  popufhtion  nmft  have  incseeafed  coaofidiSrablf 
within  that  period  Y^cty  by  Dr  WebAor's  lift  in  17  J5»  the 
population  is  ftated  at  1457;  and  by  idnaCcvirateihrvey  made 
partly  in  1792,  aTidoondtaded^ting  1793,  \ht  mmbcr  of 
living  fouisi  wiis  fDOitdto  be  XjSo* ' .       n 

The  chufch,  which  Was 'bmh  ifr  1670,  fthd  Was  prolbably 
made  fbificient  to  aecpmndate  the  farilUoneiStCW  at  leaft 
fuch  a  number  of  thcoK  t£s  might  be  eipeQed  to  attend  pub« 
lie  worOiip  ra^ari^  ahoot that' time,  could  vioti  in  the  way 
it  waitlieirfitted:ittp,  contain  properly  above  400  pecfons. 

no 


6  22  Statistical  Account 

No  proper  record  of  deaths  or  bartals  has  been  yet  kept  ip 
this  partfli^  but  the  average  of  them  is  believed  not  to  cx^- 
eeed  30.  The  regiftcr  of  (^ptifms  and  marriages,  prcrions 
to  1787,  appears  to  hare  been  fo  cardeGljr  an<l  impcrfiedly 
made  up,  that  no  conclufions  can  be  drawn  from  it  vith 
any  degree  of  certainty.  But  of  an  exad  regiftcr  for  fire 
years  paft,  the  following  abftraQ  may  be  depended  on. 


r,tn. 

In  1788, 

Main.           rn-lu. 
22                     19 

4« 

tfktmmrruJ. 

5 

89» 

»3 

21 

44 

6 

0, 

25 

7 

32 

II    ' 

9W 

23 

28 

S« 

■  to — 

92. 

22 

18 

40 

10  ' 

'  Average  Baptifins  of  Males,  23.— females  neatly'19  — 
Total  nearly  of  Baptifms,  4a.— Marriages,  B.'  "^ 

Other  circumftances  jrefpeding  the  population,  fSkj  be 
gathered  from  its  ftate,  in  fpring  1793,  viz.  •    - 

Number  of  inhabited  houfes  or  families,  3|i!i 

Average  of  pcrfons  in  a.family,  '    4^^ 

Males  in  the  parifti,  '         -.  'm  ■   '     -  ^21 

Females,  -  -  -  -'    '    ^8 


Total  of  living  fouls, 

- 

iiZc 

Divifion  pf  ihefe  by  their  ages. 

' 

-  ' 

Under  lo  years, 

3^3 

.. '   ''i. 

Twixt  10  and  20, 

334* 

\i"i 

ao 

30            -      •- 

aa»  ' 

..  •// 

30 

40 

14*' 

.1c 

4» 

50     .  ••           - 

»39 

i- J,- 

SO. 

60        -        • 

ltd 

,0 


of  Amch.  6?! 

•Twixt  60  an4  70  -        -         ^5     . 

70        80  ,      -        -  30 

80        90  •        •  9 

Inhabitants,  in  the  Village  of  Seatown,  -  378 

»■ :— —  of  Kirlctowni     -         -         99 

L— .*^ *        of  Milntowny  -      •      80 

■  ' '- in  the  country,    .  823 

Heritor,  refiding,"  -  -  -  i 

Minifter,  -^  -     .  *  -  c 

Parochial  Schoolmaftet,         .        -  •  •         i 

Faimers^.  or  tenams,  paying  from  20I.  to  50I.  fterling 
of  yearly  rent, . .  -  -  -        3  2 

— "jv         '    \-}  ^ 5I.  to  20I.  26 

Crofter^.  -:  ..        -      .  il.  to5L  42 

Mailers^  jrii!lageis».and  Fiftuucmens  families,  pofTefling 
only  ^^ufe^^jr  houfe  ^^d  garden  each,  rented 
,un^pi:  U.  ftertiiig^  ,-  *         -    .      .      acf 

Able  Fifliernirn  of  ^r^d  net  exceeding  50  yeah  of 

Shop-keepers^             *            ♦                    •  j 

Ma(bn,  and  2  ap^ntlce^y            -        «-           •>  .3 

(farriers,  and  Dykers,  in  the  country,        •.        •  3 

^oAfe-carpenter,  with  2  apprentices^        -         •  j 

Country  Wrights  and  Coopers,            -        -        -  4 

^Bpat-builders,        .            -             -             •  4 

Millers,            -            -            ....  3 

Blackfroith,          ...                        .  j 

]Butcher,,        ^          -                   ...  I 

Taylors,.                ^          -            *            -          -  g 

Weavers,  with  their  apprentices^  or  looms  employed,  22 
Shoemakers^            -               -           ^^               .9 

Quarriers,  and  qi^rry  boatmen,  at  Munlochy  bay,  i  o 

Widpwqrs,                •            •            ..            .  13 

Widows, 


6^4  Statistical  Account 

Widowi,  -  -  •  -        68 

Married  pcrfons,  -  -  -  444 

Of  the  Eftabliflied  Chnrch,        •  -  136a 

Epifcopalians,  who  occafionally  attend  Couirs  Chapel 

at  Fortrofe,  -  .  -  -  4 

Secedersy  who  commonly  attend  the  Meeting^houfes 

at  Invernefs  and  Nairn,  •  -  14 

N.  B,  Of  the  handycraftfmen  fpecified  abore,  feveral  have 
fmall  .pofleflions  of  bnd,  which  occupy  part  of  their  time» 
-parcicularly  the  wearers  and  &oemakers. 

And  of  the  mailerst  yillagers,  and  crofters  in  the  cotintry, 
a  good  many  work  in  fummer  as  day-labourers,  and  fome  go 
to  the  fouth  country  for  employment  diuring  the  fummer  and 
autumn;  Others  of  them,  who  have  finall  horfes  or  gar* 
rons,  earn  part  of  their  livelihood,  by  cutting  and  brit^^iiig 
down  fuel  from  the  moors,  to  fupply  the  Seatown. 

Only  one  ftill,  of  30  gallons,  is  wrought  in  this  parifli,  by 
a  copartnery  of  the  neighbouring  farmers  \  and  fome  of  the 
tenants  have  (hares  alfo  in  another  licenfied  ftill,  in  the  ad- 
joining parifli  of  Suddy,  or  ^nockbean. 

There  is  not  one  furgeon,  or  attorney,  or  Roman  Cadu>- 
lie,  or  Je^  or  Negroe,  or  gypfcy,  or  foreigner ;  nor  any 
mative  of  England,  Ireland,  or  the  Britifh  CQlonies,  reGding 
at  prefent  in  this  parifli* 

Fijhtry. — About  the  end  of  laft  century,  there  was  only 
one  fifliing  boat  here,  the  crew  of  which  refided  in  the  coun- 
try. The  village  of  Seatown,  which  contains  at  pKcfisnt  f  jf 
families,  has  been  moftly,  if  not  entirely,  built  fiUce  that  pe» 
riod,  and  the  fifliermen  there  4ie  now  equal  to  any  in  the 

N.  B.  This  number,  bcfid^a  the  Fifhcrmen,  indiidei  alib  tka 
widows,  publicant,  boat-buiUcrs,  and  other  artificcn  w^b  rtftd# 
thsni. 


t>f  Avoci).  525 

i^orth  of  Scotland,  for  hardinefs,  (kill,  and  induftry,  though 
ihcir  diftancc  from  thf-  riiain  ocean  fubjefts  them  to  many 
inconveniences. 

From  the  beginning  of  Oftobcr  to  the  middle  of  March, 
ihey  commonly  firti  for  herrings  in  thcfe  upper  {)arts  of  the 
Frith.  Tcvwatvis  tfee  end  of  March  and  in  April,  they  go 
i© wn  along  the  toafts  of  Moraiy  arid  Catthnefs,  •  for  cod, 
-ikate,  and  haddocks.  In  May  :snd  June,  fome  of  them  ai& 
engaged  by  the  Northumberland  Filhing  company  to  catch 
lobfters  for  the  London  market,  on  the  fhdres  of  Eaftci* 
Rofs,  aboiit  Tarbat-point;  The  othersj  during  thofc  months^ 
Avork  at  the  haddock  fifbing,  to  fapply  the  towns  of  Infernefs 
and  'Fortrofe,  and  the  Weftem  part  of  the  Black  Ifle^  A- 
'bovt  the  middlb  of  July,  all  the  able  fifhetnien'  here  go  off 
to  CaWhtiefs,  and  Lochbroom,  for  fix  or  eight  weeks,  wheri 
the  herring  fiftief  y  at  thofe  ftatiohs  is  commonly  mod  fa- 
VDutabic ;  and  in  good  years  they  have  been  known  to /bring 
liome  from  thence,  81.  or  lOl.  Sterling  each  man' of  nett 
gain.- 

They  generally  return  in  September,  to  prepare  for  the 

feafon  at  home,  which,  owing  to  the  fmall  depths  and  clear- 

n«fs  of  this  fiith,  begins  only  «bout  the  autumnal  equinox, 

or  a  fortnight  tbereaftei".     The  fame  caufes  ofcligc  the  fiihef- 

men,  for  the  mod  part,  to  delay  their  work  here  till  evening  or 

night,  as  the  herrings  are  then  caught  in  much  greater  num- 

/bers,  than  daring  the  day;     In  good  feafons,  it  is  not  un<* 

CoflFimon  fof  each  boat  to  bring  in  the  quantity  of  from  18 

.to  25  bafrcis  in  one  night;    When  tlie  (hoal  comes  up  irt 

-  the  end  of  June  or  beginning  of  July^  the  herrings  prove  ge- 

-'•nenilly.  beO;?  and  mod  plentiful. 

5t"  Iii  winter   1786-7,  befides  thofe  ufed  at  home,  five  or  fix 

thoufand  barrels  were  cured  here  for  exportation }  and  feve- 

^.Yflt.'xV.  4li  wl 


6z6  Statistical  Account 

tal  floops  alfo  were  difpatched  with  full  cargoes  of  unpacked 
herrings  for  Dunbar,  and  other  towns  pn  the  caft  coaft.— 
Since  that  period,  the  fuccefs  in  general  has  been  poor  at 
this  ftation,  little  more  than  what  ferved  to  fupply  the  neigh^ 
bouring  country ;  except  in  fpring  1792,  when  about  1100 
barrels  were  exported.  Lad  winter,  the  herrings  were  un-' 
commonly  fcarce.  And  the  prcfent  feafon,  1793-41  though 
it  promifed  well  in  autumn,  has  turned  out  but  indifferently. 
There  are  not  now  (in  February)  200  barrels  packed. 

The  herrings  found  here  are  feldom  fo  large  as  thofc  caught 
at  Caithnefs,  and  Lochbroom,  which  makes  it  neceflary  for 
the  men  to  provide  a  different  fct  of  nets  of  a  fmaller  mcfli 
and  deptfi,  than  what  they  ufe  at  tlie  former  (tations.  Nor 
fiave  any  buildings  as  yet  been  crcfted  at  Avoch,  for  curmg 
them  in  the  red  manner.  The  quantity  of  herrings  fufiicient 
to  pack  a  barrel  when  cured,  is  fold  here  freih^  at  from  3s* 
to  5s.'  6d.  according  to  the  quality  and  the  demand.  And 
the  middle-Hzed,  when  fat,  are  reckoned  much  nicer,  and 
more  delicate  eating,  t&an  larger  ones,  though  tbey  do  not 
fetch  fo  good  a  price  at  the  London  and  other  markets,  being 
not  accounted  fo  fit  for  exportation  to  hot  olimates.  Bat» 
if  our  bed  hands,  at  all  the  different  ftations  in  the  north  and 
weft  of  Scotland,  were  provided  with  large  <^nd  commodious 
bufles,  fo  that  they  could  go  out  and  continue  fi{hing  in  deep 
water,  and  cure  tlieir  herrings  on  board,  in  the  fame  expcdi* 
^ious  and  careful  manner  that  the  Dutch  do,  this  buGncfi 
might  foon  fiecon^e  much  more  advantageous  to  Great  Bri- 
tain than  at  prefent,  and  our  fiffi  become  as  faleable  abroad 
as  theirs  !  And  the  weaker  and  more  indifferent  hands  would, 
at  fame  time,  find  ,the  better  employment  in  continuing  to 
,  catch  for  ordinary  confumption  at  home,  from  the  fmaller 

ihoal9 


of  Avocb.  627 

Ihoah,  which  now  and  then  come  near  to  our  fliorcs,  in  the 
manner  that  all  the  hands  do  at  preftnt.* 

4  L  2  Wages 

*  The  Mcffrs  Falls  of  Duabar,  were,  for  many  years,  the  principal  adrcnta- 
j-ers  in  the  herring  fifliery  here  :  And  from  them  the  Avoch  men  met  with 
very  good  encouragement.  Since  the  unfortunate  failure  of  that  old  and  re- 
fpedable  houfe,  the  Northumberland  or  Beadnel  Fiftiing  Company  have 
taken  up  part  of  this  bufinefs,  in  which  an  eftabliflied  company,  with  a  good 
capital,  have  a  far  better  chance  of  fuccefs  than  fmaU  adventurers,  who  can- 
not afford  to  lay  in  a  proper  flock  of  fait' and  barrels,  much  lefs  to  keep  them 
iinufed  in  unfavourable  feafons.  At  this  (lacion,  indeed,  the  herring  fi&ing, 
on  the  prefent  pbn,  ha«  been  found,  for  fome  years  pail,  to  be  but  a  preca- 
rious concern.  One  fuccefaful  winter  tempted  many  of  the  neighbouring 
^opkeepers  to  embark  in  it :  And  thofe  who  did  fo  with  borrowed  money, 
have  moftly  become  bankrupts  fince.  To  fecore  the  important  national  bene- 
fits of  this  trade,  every  rcafonabb  encouragement  (hould  be  given  to  both  the 
fiibeoncn  and  curert . 

The  fi&tng  boats  ofed  here  are  of  a  fmall  fize ;  their  keel  being  only  a6  or 
ay  feet  in  length ;  the  moutb  from  30  to  32  feet  long,  and  10  feet  wide.— 
The  depth  is  fo  proportioned  to  thefe  dimeniions,  a^  that  they  may  fail  well,  and 
may  carry,  befides  the  crew  and  their  fiihing  tackle,  3  or  4  tons  fafely.  Six 
of  thefe  boats,  wrought  by  feven  men  each,  for  the  white  fiihing,  and  two  or 
three  (mailer  ones  or  yawls,  occupied  by  old  men  and  boys,  belong  to  the 
place.  Daring  the  herring  feafon,  they  fit  out  a  good  many  more,  as  fouc 
men,  with  a  boy  to  fteer,  ferve  this  purpofe,  and  they  then  hire  fen:>e  addx« 
tional  hands  from  the  country.  When  the  feafon  here  proves  fuccefsful,  the 
fiihing  boats  of  Nairn,  Delnies,  Campbeltown,  «nd  Petty,  join  them ;  and 
fome  likewife  from  Eafter  Eofa,  Cromarty,  Rofemarky,  Fortrofe,  and  Kef* 
lock ;  £0  that,  even  in  this  upper  part  of  the  Frith,  60  or  80  herring  boats, 
containing  above  300  men,  may  be  fcen  at  times,  plying  together  on  the  lama 
fixeam.  But  fucb  crowds  are  thought  to  be  rather  prejudicial  to  the  bufinefs, 
in  clear  ihallow  water  like  this,  as  the  herrings  ofte^  fuddenly  difappear  from 
ihem,  and  it  is  ftrongly  fufpe^ed,  that  a  mul(itnde  of  boats  and  netf  tendt 
to  frighten  theip  away. 

The  quantity  of  canvas  carried  by  the  Avoch  men,  and  fome  others  in  this 
oeighboorhood,  is  very  much  difproportipned  to  the  fmall  fize  and  burden  of 
their  boats.    The  length  of  the  maft  is  generally  above  30  feet.    On  this, 

thcjr 


628  S tat  ijlical  Account 

Wages  and  price  of  provijions, — ^The  following  comparatiTi 
ftatc,  founded  on  good  information,  will  flicw  tlie  advance 

on 

they  hoift  an  Imtnenfe  ohlong  fail,  containinj;  ntarly  80  fquar  yirds,  or  70Q 
^juare  feet  of  cloth.  And  they  carry  aforclailbsfides^on  a  pole  at  the  beat  (lem, 
of  the  fame  oblong  fomi,  but  only  a  tenth  part  of  the  fizc  of  the  oJ.er. 
Their  {kill  and  alertnefs  in  fcttiog  and  reefing  thcl'c  fails,  according  to  tLe 
wind  and  weather,  and  the  courfe  they  mean  to  purfuc,  are  wonderful.  Se- 
veral gentlemen  of  the  navy  have  cxprefT^d  their  furprize  at  tlus,  and  de- 
flared,  that  they  haveiieldom  fccn  common  filhermen  carry  fo  great  a  propor- 
tion of  fail,  or  manage  it  more  dextroafly  on  any  other  part  of  the  Britilk 
coafts.  Yet  there  have  been  only  four  Avoch  men  drowned  by  their  boats 
overfctting,  fince  the  fiihery  iirll  began  here.  But,  a»  they  continue  gradaaily 
to  enlarge  thofe  fails,  without  increaiing  the  boats  in  proportion,  it  is  to  be 
feared  that  fuch  accidenti  may  become  more  frequent  aanong  them.  For  there 
is  nndoubtedly,  a  ntplus  ultra  in  this,  afl  in  all  other  haman  attempts. 

In  juflice  to  the  adive  enterpriiing  fpirit  of  thofe  honeft  men,  we  may  add^ 
that  three  of  the  Seatown  crews  having  engaged  in  (prtng  I79i>  to  fi(h  for  fe- 
Tcral  months  on  the  coaft  of  Northumberland,  coafted  at  in  their  little  open 
boats  the  whcde  way  from  Avoch.  to  Beadnel,  without  either  chare  or  com- 
paia,  and  returned  heme  in  like  manner,  with  no  other  accident,  excrpt  fplit- 
ting  one  of  their  faiU.  A  long  voyage  this  for  fo  fniall  crait  to  undertake, 
if  we  confider  the  different,  wisdings  of  the  coaft,  which  they  muft  nccefia- 
rily  follow  1  Mrhat  a  pky,  that  fuch  men  have  not  been  regnlarly  taught  m- 
vigation,  nor  got  larger  veffeU  to  manage,  for  there  is  not  a  fuigle  floop  bs 
longing  to  the  place. 

The  former  inconvenieBce  may  now  be  obviated  by  the  academy  lately  ef^a* 
bU(hed  at  Fortrofe,  which  affords  them  an  cafy  and  near  opportunity  of  get- 
ting their  children  better  inilrudted  than  heretofore.  And  if,  along  with  this 
advantage,  Providence  be  pleafed  tor  favour  tl.cm  with  three  01  four  good 
jifhing  years  in  fncceifion,  it  is  more  than  probAble  that  (bnie  of  the  more 
careful  and  fptrited  young  men  may  be  perfuaded  toanite  and  improve  ibeir 
gaint,  in  fitting  out  t^o  or  three  fiaaall  bufiVs,  or  proper  freighting  floopa  for 
this  craft, of  50  or  60  tens  each;  which  could  occdfionally  be  navigated  by 
fcwer  hands  than  any  of  their  prefimt  boats.  Such  Hoops  might  be  employ- 
ed to  good  advantage  every  herring  fcafon  on  the  boaiity  ;  and  during  the 
^thcr  months  they  vrould  find  ahundani  encouragement  in  carrying  out  car- 
goes 


of  Avoch. 


629 


en  ibme  efiential  articles  of  tins  imture,  within  60  yeais  paft^ 
in  this  di(lri£ty  viz. 

Common  amomtt 

i«  1734.  Ditto  in  iy^4t 

Wages  of  an  able  ploughman,  or  farm  fei>« 

Tant,  per  annum,  fterlinj^,        — -  1..II34  L.  4.40 

■  a  Female  fcrvant,  —  O  13     3  I  lO    O 
* . — —  a  day  labourer,  per  diem, 'finding 

his  own  viAuals^  —  —  004  009 

• — —^— a  journeyman  malbn,  do.  do.  o    o  il  o    I  10 

■         a  journeyman  wright,  do  do.  008  O    I    3 

■  a  taylor,  do.  do«  —  o    o     j  009 

Ctmmon  pr'tees  Ditto  in 

««I734.  .J>^'*gX794. 

Oatmeal,  per  boll,  9cwt.  9  ftooe,.  or  I44lbs. 

Amfterdam  weight,  —        L.  o    8  10  >^    O  Z6    O 

Barley,  or  bear,  per  boll,  (Linlithgow 

meafure,)  —  —  090 

Pottaoes  per  peck,  (ditto  t  ftreaks,)     not  then  fold 
Beef  and  veal,  per  lib.  (Amfterdam  weight,) 

about  —  —  o    o     I  o 

Good  Mutton,  per  do.  do.  about  000  3-4  o 

Pork,  per  do.  do.  about  — -  o    •    i         o 

Diicks,  each,  —  —  0030 

Chickens,  do.  —  —  00*0 

Eggs  per  dozen,        —  —  000  3-4  o 

Haddocks,  per  do.  —  —        o    o    I  o 

Butter  per   ftone,   (of  ailbt.   Amfterdam 

weight,  —  —^050 

Cheefc,  per  do.  —  "—  018^ 

g  Salt  per  peck,  (Linlithgow  n^eal  meafure 

or  i4lbs.  Amfterdam  weight,  007 


o  z8 

o    o 


O  12 
o    5 


o 
6 

izito  3d^ 

3 

a  to  a  !*%' 

8 

4  to  66, 

I  i-a  to  ad. 

9 

o 

o  to  5  s.  6  J, 


Roads 

I  Within  the  above  period,  the  eftabliihment  of  a  garrifon  at  Fort  George, 
and  the  flouriftiing  Hate  of  Invernefs,  by  greatly  increaling  the  demand,  have 

tended 


goes  of  grain,  when  it  could  be  fpared,  and  bringing  home  coab,  fait,  lime, 
{lid  other  neccfiarics,  to  fupply  the  incrcafiog  demands  of  this  part  of  the 

country 


63C»  Sfatijlicnl  Account 

Roads  and  Bridges ^-^^^xi/t  only  in  this  parifli,  but  over  the 
whole  of  Ardmean^ichy  the  roads  have^  for  many  years  paft, 

bcciT 

tended  to  raife  the  price  of  mod  kinds  of  proviflons  here.  ConGdcring  however 
the  high  rents  now  paid  by  the  farmets,  and  the  progrcfllvc  advance  on  evcrj 
thing  clfe,  thofe  prefent  rates, 'on  the  whole,  cannot  be  reafonably  €omplaix>- 
ed  of,  except  by  fuch  perfons  as  have  had  narrow  limited  incoskes  with  n« 
opportunity  of  improving  them.  One  neceifary  axticle,  foH^  for  home  con* 
fumption,  has,  indeed,  been  uncommonly  fcarce  and  high  priced  fiir  fome 
months,  over  atl  the  north  of  Scotland  ;  but  for  this,  it  is  hoped,  that  the 
wifdom  of  Parliament  will  foon  provide  a  remedy.  And  the  late  repeal  of 
the  duty  on  coals  carried  coaftways,  though  the  advance  on  freight  of  fuch 
a  bulky  article,  prevents  the  benefit  being  fo  fcnfihly  felt  at  prefent,  mpft, 
when  the  war  is  over,  be  acknowledged  a  great  relief,  to  a  diftriA  fo  poorly 
poorly  provided  with  other  fuel  as  this. 

country.  To  promote  and  encourage  fuch  a  fcheme,  would  unqueftionably 
be  the  intereft  of  both  gentlemen  and  traders  on  both  fides^of  this  Frith  ;  as 
good  feunen,  having  their  home,  or  refidence  of  their  families  here,  cmikl 
{uUrit  faribui)  afford  to  Sent  the  neighbourhood  on  eafier  tcroM  ihanilraA- 
gcrs  ;  Belides  that,  a  great  part  of  the  moocy,  which  thefe  diilci^  muft  no* 
cefiarily  pay  for  fuch  freights,  would  thus  remain  and  circulate  at  home. 
There  is  likewife  another  important  conflderation,  that  cargoes  would  be  ex- 
pofed  to  lefs  hazard  of  lofs  or  damage,  under  the  care  of  feamen  fo  well  ac- 
quainted with  moft  of  the  dififerent  harbours,  rocks  and  fend  banks,  in  this 
long  and  tedious  Frith, 

Ko  lels  remarkable  are  the  inhabitants  of  this  thriving  village  in  general, 
for  their  induftry  and  diligence.  They  manufa^re,  of  the  beil  materials 
they  can  procure,  not  only  all  their  own  fiihing  apparatus,  but  ^fo  a  great 
quantity  of  herring  and  falmon  nets  yearly,  for  the  ufe  of  other  fiatiopa  in 
the  Korth  and  Weft  Highlands.  From  Monday  morning  to  Saturday  after- 
noon, the  men  fcldom  loiter  at  home  24  hours  at  a  time,  when  the  weather  is 
at  all  favourable  for  going  to  fea.  And  the  women  and  children,  befides  the 
care  of  their  houfes,  and  the  common  operations  of  gathering  and  affixing 
bait,  9nd  of  vending  the  fi(h  over  all  the  neighbouring  countr}',  do  a  great  deal 
of  thofe  manufadures.  Some  of  their  families  alfo  cultivate  from  a  rood  to 
half  an  acre  of  potatoes  yearly  for  their  own  fupply;  and  others,  whofe 
children  arc  more  advanced,  laife  and  drefs,  for  the  herring  ncts^  a  goodq^aiv 

^  tity 


6f  Avuh.  631 

l^en  as  well  attended  to,  and  kept  in  as  good  repair,  as  ia 
any  part  of  Scotland,  where  turnpikes  are  not  eftabliflied. 
At  mod  placcst  where  highways  meet  or  interfefk  each  o- 
ther,  Miredlion-poils'have  been  fixed  and  kept  up.  In  a 
country,  where  many  of  the  inhabitants  cannot  fpeak  to  a 
ftranger  in  Englifl),  the  importance  of  thefe  is  obvious*  Part 
of  one  road  here,  'cwixt  the  Seatown  of  Avoch  and  Fortrofe, 
being  liable  to  frequent  incroachments  of  the  fea,  proves  ex- 
ceedingly troublefome  and  expenfive.  A  lubftantial  repair 
to  that,  and  a  few  fmall  bridges,  are  the  principal  things  of 
this  nature  now  wanted  in  the  difttifl.  The  county  of  Rofs, 
laft  year,  eftabliOied  a  commutation  of  the  (latute  labour 
within  their  bounds,  with  a  view,  no  doubt,  to  improve  thofe 
matters  of  police  flill  farther,  by  hiring  able  hands  with  the  mo- 
ney and  keeping  fteady  furveyors  over  them.  The  rates 
charged  are  is.  6d.  yearly  from  each  man,  liable  to  the  ftatute 
work  -,  and  2s.  6d.  more  from  the  tenants,  for  the  ftrength 
of  each  plough.  Thefe  rates  may  be  thought  hard  by  fome> 
poor  people,  who  have  little  ready  money  to  command,  and 
would  rather  give  their  work  in  the  moderate  way  it  ufed  to 
be  exaded*  But  every  judicious  farmer,  or  well  employed 
medianiCf  who  confidcrs  the  importance  of  a  long  ,fummer 
day  for  canying  on  his  own  work  or  improvements  at  home, 

will 

tity  of  hemp.  £v«n  the  aged  and  infirm  employ  themfelves  as  buiily  as  they 
can  at  making  and  baiting  hooks,  and  mending  nets,  fo  that,  except  for  a 
few  days  about  Cbrlftmas,  or  on  the  occafion  of  a  fiiher*s  wedding,  there  are 
Hone  but  little  children  idle  in  the  whole  Seatown.  And  this  their  indnfiry 
turns  out  to  good  account ;  for  they  bring  up  and  provide  for  their  famiiiet 
decently  in  their  fphere.  They  pay  honeftly  all  the  debts  they  contra^  ia 
the  country,  and,  confidering  the  number  of  widows,  and  father lefs,  and  of 
infirm  and  aged  perfons  among  them,  very  few  of  this  viliage,  except  in 
«fes  of  great  emergency,  are  found  tafeltcit  the  alfiftance  of  cither  public  or 
yrivatc  charity. 


6^t  Siatiffual  Account 

will  ihbsk  It  miuJk  mote  ex|>edt<ni:«to  pty  ihom*^  Wtfaalief 
this  fcbeae,  however,  on  the  whole,  ihail  «Mire^  effe£kuilty 
promote  tibe  puUac  good  tlian  the  formifft  the  eountf-iviil 
be  better  eiutbled  .to  judge^  after  f«ne  ytars^expcdence. 

Langu^c^^Alihoaf^'mcA  naniee'of  places^.and  many 
fimaraes  of  peifoBS  here  areevideadydemed  horn  the  Gae- 
lic, the  inhabitants,  ia  general,  of  diia  atul  die  two  netgh* 
boiiring  pariflies,  of  RoCbnurkf  aUd.  CmmiMyy  HQderftapd 
aod  ufe  the  Engiifh  language.  They  fpeak  it  alfo  more 
purely,  and  with  lefs  of  a  provincial  accent  bt  d^awl,  thaii 
tbofe  of  many  feuchern  counties  in  Scotland.  Hecice  fome 
have  fuppofed  them  to  be  <h«  defcandentrof  a  colony  bnMight 
from  ibme  diftatit  part  of  die  kii^dom,  efpeciitty  tsilleSooKM' 
man  people  in  all  the-oontiguouft  pariAeft  aroBad,.%e8k  ind<b> 
lyinGaeUc;  and  two- thirds  of  them  trnderftandmo  oril€f 
tongue.  Whereas,  in  this  parrfl),  there  are  onlyik  bt  eigM 
familiets  unacquainted  with  the  fingliAl  language,  and  thr^e- 
fourths  of  the  pariQiioners  ufe  it  in  common.  Nor  has  st^ 
Gaelic  been  preached  in  the  diuvefa  of  Avoch  (mce  the  be*> 
ginning  of  this  century,  although  one  x>r  two  of  the  minifters 
underftood  it  perfe£Uy,  and. could  ddiver  dieir  fentimentK  in 
that  language  with  fluency*  The  prciralenoe,  hotirefer/  of 
the  Engliih  language  in  this  corner,  may  be  more^afiky  ac- 
counted for,  from  the  more  frequent  inttrcourfe  «f  ita  ii&a^ 
bitants  by  both  fca  and  land,  with  diofe  of  the  foiithem  pin- 
vinces.  •  • 

The  patronage  of  tliis  patiih  belongs  to  Mift  Brodie  of 
liCthen*  The  ftipend,  incliidkig  an  augmentation  lateiy  de- 
creed, confifts  of  fix  chalders,  part  harley,  part  meal ;  46!. 
Sterling,  money  ^  61.  of  converfion  for  the  vicarage  and  filh 
liends  3  and  5l-  mofe  foir  ccbmu  anion  elements.  The  glebe, 
)n  three  feparatc  fpots,  all  arable,  meafures  nearly  fix  acres. 

he 


^§f  A^Qch.  633 

Hie  diwrdi  tmt  sew  raefed,  and  odiev  wife  impit^ved  in 
1799.  The  mmfe,  boik  in  t6^^9  ba»  undergone  fever^  re- 
parations fiace^  and  it  now  a  comfortable  lodging..  The 
minifkera,  fince  the  Reftoratioa  of  Presbytery,  and  dates  of 
their  fettleinenta,  have  been : 

i7i»'K3-*Mr  Alexander  M^Bean,  afterwards  mini- 

fker  at  Inrenefs, 
1716.  Mr  Alexander  Ray*  who  died  here  in  1735. 
1736*  Mr  Alexander  FraCer,  tranflated  in  1755  ^^ 

•  Initmels. 
175^  Mr  Thomaa  Sinpfon,  who  died  here  in  1786. 
Sept*    17S7,  Mr  James  Smith,  the  prefent  incumbent. 

The  fiiimfter  of  Avodi  is  co-adminiftracor  with  the  mini- 
ftcff  of  Bfiieinsrkyi  of  the  fund  which  pays  the  matters  iala- 
ries  hi  die  academy  at  Fortnife  )  andof  fome  binds  beftueath* 
ed  by  a  hie  Couateia  of  Seaf orthy  for  the  (upport  of  the  poor 
in  £uiie  b«t(b» 

The  pavochial  fch<)ol  of  Afoch  is  attended  by  about  50 
fcholars*  The  roafter's  fidary,  payable  by  the  heritors,  is 
6L  13s.  4d.  Sterling.  His  wages  and  emolumeots^  as  fcflion 
clerk  and  prefenter,  may,  tommumhu^  annis^  amount  to  31. 
more. '  He  teaches  EngliOi,  Latin,  Writing,  Arithmetic, 
Book-keqping,  and  Church  «iufic.  But  the  fees  from  Us 
fcholars,  as  the  tenantry  in  general  are  not  able  to  afibrd 
much,*  will  feldom  exceed  loL  Sterling.  So  that  this  dffioe 
is  fcarcely  worth  aol.  a  year^ 

There  is  a  fewing  fchool  for  gkls  in  the  Eirktown,  and 
two  or  three  finall  fchools  in  different  comers  of  the  parifli, 
for  initiating  young  children  to  read,  but  they  have  so  (ala- 
ries. 

A  fimday  fchool,  on  a  proper  plan,  and  a  ^ning  'fthool, 
for  teaching  young  girls  to  work  at  the  two4ianded  wheel, 
would  both  be  found  exceedingly  ufeful  inftitutions  in  (uch 

yot.  XV.  4  M  a 


tf  34  StatiJlicaJ  Acc^nnt 

a  populous  patifli  as  this,  and  where  the  linen  manufAAui^ 
itands  much  in  need  of  improvement^ 

SteUe  of  the  Poor^  &c^-^There  are  about  40  indigent  per* 
fons  now  on  the  roll.  The  funds  for  Iheir  relief  arc  the  in- 
tcreft  of  33I.  6«.  8d.  Sterling,  bequeathed  by  the  htc  Sir 
Kenneth  M'Kenzlc  of  Scatwell  in  the  hands  of  his  own  fa- 
mily ;-r-the  intereft.of  about  50I.  m^re  undifr  the  Teflion*s 
management  \  and  the  public  voluntary  contributions  in 
church  :  which  laft,  at  an  average  of  three  years  bygone,  at 
mounts  to  81.  11s.  4d.  Sterling  yearly.  *AU  thcfe  funds,  ht>w- 
ever,  can  afford  but  a  fcanty  help  to  each.      '  ' 

A  crew  of  the  fiftiermen  having  been  accidentally  'drown^ 
cd  in  1792,  left  feven  widows  and  a  good  mnny  dependent?, 
fbiiie  of  them  in  moft  pitiable  circumftanccs.  Onfe^'young 
girl,  in  particular,  who,  at  19  years  of  age,  had  been  married 
only  feven  months  before,  was,  by  this  unforfecn  accident, 
beteaved  at  once  of  her  huftiand  I  her  father  f  her  bnithcr ! 
and  was  left  big  with  child,  and  in  debt !  On  tJiU  melati- 
choly  occafion,  it  was  found  ncceflarry  to  a(fc  fome  chaiKh^le 
aflfiftance  from  other  places.  And  a  liberal  fupply  ti'as  ob- 
tained, adequate  to  their  more  immediate  needs*  For,  be- 
fides  what  was  colleded  within  the  bounds  of  this  prefbytery, 
the  following  eontriburions  from  different  quaitet$,''ih6ftly 
unfolicited,  were  remitted  to  the  kirk  (eflion  for  relief  of 
thofe  unfortunate  people,  and  have  aU  be^n  diftribytcd  among 
them,  viz. 

From  the  town  aittd  nclghbourhotjd 
of  Invcmefs,  -  Sterling  L.  31  5  o 

From  fome  gentlemen  of  Nairn-  (hire, 
and  Fort  George,  *  656 

And  a  coIleAion  mkde  in  the  parifl) 
church  of  AtnefS|  •  518 


of  Avoch.  635 

,.;Ttje  di{Uefi»  of  the  widows  having  thus  teen  micigatedi 
J)articularly  until  fuch  of  them  as  had  been  left  pregnant, were 
dcliveredi  and  nurfed  their  infants,  they  have  almoil  all  now 
returned  to  proper  habits  of  induftry,  fufficient  to  fupporf 
thenifelVe^  a|id  theli*  families^  Such  exa^nples,  it  is  hoped» 
will  not  be  thought  mifplaced  in  this  record,  becaiifc  they 
not  only^  in  their  ineafure,  do  honour  to  human  nature,  but 
may  tend 'to  encourage  others  to  "  </<»  Hkevfi/e^*  in  fimilar 
cafes  I 
The  deficiency  of  crcp  1 782  was  (evetely  felt  in  this  pari(h» 

.  ipxccp^by  fome  farmery  near  the  (hore.  But  from  the  great 
k]uan titles  of  corn  then  imported,  and  the  feafonable  fupply 
fent  by  Government  for  th^  poori  it  is  not  believed,  that  any 
pexfoh  hdre  died  th^ii  of  want.  And  the  more  iiiduftrioui 
teAa^ts  .hiive  6n<;e  compieatly  recovered  from  the  efFefts  of 

.  ^t  yejity  upon  their  little  llock  and  credit* 

GaneraJ  Chara^er  $f  the  Inhabit anii.^-'^tkt  i)ariChioner9 

twe  are  mp&ly  of,  a,,middle  fizc,,  ftrong  and  healthy,  and 

c  ;4i:apabk;  of  enduring  ^  gpod  deal  of  fatigue  and  labour,   fhere 

-tn^iy  be  8  or  io.men  among  them  Gx  feet  high }  and  very 

.^ew  dn^arfs  or.dcfotmed  pei'fons  ate  to  be  feen  % 

f  f  t^^^yhe  jyl^f )ym»^s  tj  tjig  cdvtitrjjpart  aPe  gtfneraltjr  but  in  poor  circumflan'* 
^%^|j[ence  i|iey  i'eel  many  draiu  in  bringio^  up  their  families.  I'his,  wtrh  the 
fcarcity  and  incrcafcd  wages  of  fervmnts,  obliges  fomc  of  them  to  put  their  chil- 
dren to  hard  work  rather  too  fooa ;  even  the  grtfttft  farmers,  who,  as  they  raifii 
bread  for  many  others,  (hould  have  it  in  their  own  power  to  liire  pretty  com- 
fortably in  their  fpherci  tpynf  hive  but  few  <>(  the  comforts,  and  none  uf  th< 
luuide*  of  life ;  except,  perhap*i  iti  the  ufc  of  fpirituous  li(|uor5,  to  which  both 
they  and  the  filhernien  huve  become  of  late  too  much  addi&cd.  Tlil*  has  taken 
]»Uice  alrooft  entirtly  of  that  wholefome  (Irengtheikiog  beTfrag4<  good  beer, 
Which  their  fathers  harmlefsly  quafied.  1  he  fte£pc|iL  geocrafioD  are,  indeed. 
better  clothed ;  but  they.  eff^-Uf»  aitd  coar^r  br^^  and  have,  perl^ps,  lefi 
ready  moDey.    Their  heufes  alfo,  a^e  for  ipoft  part  mifcrably  dirty,  foioaky, 

and 


636  Statiftic^l  ^scpunt 

Means  hy  HvhUk  ih^r  C^ikhn  ewdd  Ar  iiMiSm^</«— *jlftibc 
Britiih  Society  for  improving  an4  exi«nAifig  the  fifiicfiMy  or 

.  tbo 

•nd  itKatil7  furnifhed.  But,  su  they  have  little  acquaintance  with  any  better 
coBdxtion«fo  ioag  as  they  can  make  a  ftretch  to  pay  their  rent  and  tiieif  Aehtt, 
tbey  appear  contented  with  their  own.  Thor  maal  cfaaraAer  is^ia  ginMiU' 
food,  if  we  except  only  a  few  vicei  and  failingt)  to  which  their  f!tx»taf€^  ft- 
Cuation  eapofes  them.  They  are  boneft  and  indnftrious.  faithfiri^to  th^  ma- 
fier  or  kndlordf,  and  attached  to  their  King  and  Country.  As  to  religion, 
the  greater  part  of  them  appear  ferioat  and  devout,  md  regularly  attend  on 
public  woHhip  and  ordinances.  In  moft  paiifiiei  Herd,  it  is  ooc  ^loe^inttioa  - 
for  feveral  thoufands  of  people  to  afiemblci  from  all  eof^en  kd  the^omiqri 
on  a  facramental  occafion. 

Marriages^  in  this  place,  arc  generally  cooduded  in  the  ftile  of  penny 
weddings.  Little  other  fare  is  provided,  except  bread,  ale,  and  whiiky>  The 
relatives^  who  aficmble  in  the  morning,  are  entertained  with  a  ^anoi  and  a 
drink  gn^i.  But,  after  the  ceremony  is  performed,  every  man  pays  for  bis 
drink.  The  neighbour!  then  convene  in  great  numbeta.  A  fiddler  or  two, 
with  perhaps  a  boy  to  fcrape  on  an  old  vjelinccU^i  ace  engiydi,  A  ham  is 
allqted  for  the  dancing;  and  the  h«ule  fof  drioki^K*  Aod4hM»  they  maka 
m^ry  for  two  or  three  days,  till  Satvrday  night.  On  Sahbath^'aiikK  aetvittiv 
ing  from  church,  the  married  couple  give  a  fort  of  dinner  or  catartaififliciifc 
to  the  prcfeot  friends  on  both  ikies.  60  that  thoiip  Wfddifig^  pfh  th« wMe, 
bring  littl«  gain  or  iofs  to. the  partiea.  ... 

As  fuperClitions  pre^udi^es  begia  to  wear  out,  the.pradke  9!  u|octtlatio« 

for  the  fmall  pox  gains  ground  confiderably  here;  though  it  i*  noi  ib  (accefs^ 

ful  ^  in  other  parts*  owii^  to  many  of  the  parents Aoi  following  ihefttifeoB's 

^Iprcicriptiotts;  and  giving  ardent  fpirits  to  their  dwldrcob  «^w«  ^nriagche 

height  pf  th e  diieaie . 

At  xumimon  funerals,  in  this  diftria,  the  <orpfi»  Is  yrpttM.  by  the  parifli 
officer  tollivg  a  hand  bell.    The  pall  or  mort-ckoth  is  o£  pJUia  bladMnelfct* 
withoat  any  dccoiatino,  exctpt  a  fringe.  An  imma^fe  crowd  of  both  ficxeiiiftt- 
tend.     And  the  lamcntatioos  of  the  women,  in  fo|oe  caib,  on  fiedug  ^JtcWv-. , 
cd  relative  put  into  the  grave,  would  almoft  pierce  ft  h«|irc  of  Amic* 

The  inhabitants  of  Scatown  live  niore  comfortably  than  of  the  0Q«9Uf ; . 
And  they  begin  n^iw  to  build  nest  commodions  houfes,  which*coft  «h«ie:Mi 
StcrUng,  each.  AmoO)^  the  fiflien.^  it  ufual  for  both  feacs  ^^  mjirry  a^.«|  m^ 
dcr  ^o  jcafs  of  a^e.    And  of  Several  of  theif  fuoiltfsi  iliere  are  |«NM-l<«a- 


tbeHbit.  Board bf  IVttfttes fblr fiflitrtes,  maniifaflhires,  and 
sffipfdvaneMts  in  Scoilandi  would,  over  arid  above  the  bovii- 
tiet  now  allowed  by  GoTemment)  grant  fome  premuims  to 
^£hial  fiiheraien  (or  a  few  years  at  the  different' herring  .ft** 
tioQs  tn  the  North  s  to  three  or  four,  at  leaft,  of  the  herring 
boats  at  each  ftation,  whofe  crewi  confifting  of  a  fixed  nmn* 
beti  and  trithin  a  littited  time  of  every  feafon,  (hould  catch 
and  deliver'the  greateft  quantities  of  good  herrings  to  the  ca- 
rers \ — this,  it  is  believedf  would  excite  much  emulation  a- 
mong  the  hands,  and  be  attended  with  many  beneficial  con- 
feqnencesw  A  pier,  fufScIent  for  boats  and  fmall  floops, 
would  render  this  ftation  much  more  commodious  and  fafe 
thkh  at  prefent,  and  could  be  built  for  a  moderate  fum :  Andf 
if  the  boujads  of  xhfi,  Seatown  were  extended,  by  throwing  a 
^  bridge 

ratiav  BOW  Hv^f  lo  the  |4ace.  Their  women  are,  in  general,  hardy  and 
robuftf  and  un  htm  utonenie  burdens.  Some  of  them  will  carry  a  hundred 
weight  tif  wet  fiflk  a  good  many  miles  up  the  coantrj.  As  the  bay  is  flat,  and 
no  fUa  hm  yet  been  bfttlt,  lb  that  the  boats  maft  often  taice  ground  a  good 
way  off  from  file  ftore,  thelb  poifikrdes  have  a  peculiar  cufiom  of  carrying 
out  and  in  their  huibands  on  their  backs,  **  to  keep  their  men's  feet  dry,'*  at 
they  iby.  They  bring  out,  in  like  manner,  all  the  fiih  atad  filking  tackles, 
and  at  theft  operations,  they  nerer  repine  to  wade,  in  all  weadiers,  a  ccnfi- 
derabie  djftance  into  the  water.  Hard  as  this  ufage  muft  appear,  yet  there  arc 
fewother  women  fo  deanly,  healthy,  or  fo  long  liters  in  the  country. 

During  the  laft  war,  13  Avoch  men  were  prefled  imo  the  Royal  Naty* 
and  tltough  moft  of  thefe  fenred  in  Admiral  Parker's  own  (hip  in  his  dread- 
ful engagtflbent  with  the  Dutch  off  the  Dogger  Bank,  as  well  as  in  other  ac- 
tions, not  one  of  them  was  hvrt  by  the  enemy.  Their  reguhir  and  good  be- 
bitionr  waa  acknowledged  by  all  their  officers,  and  eleven  of  the  number 
rccumed  home  in  1783,  with  a  good  many  guineas  each  of  fated  money.  Mr 
pundtki^s  \aut  re^alations  for  the  pondual  pay  of  feameo,  will  be  very  bene- 
ficial itftfaUve^  A;  and  wiU  encourage  them  to  enter  much  more  readily 
than  htkic€i  The  grcateft  hardfliips  now,  is  leaving  their'  (kmllies;  as  they 
common^  mrry  at  fuch  an  early  period  of  jife ;  and  are  ap  kappy  and  ' 
oootemed  with  their  itnauoo  and  circuaiftaoces  at  home 


6ja  Statiftical  Account 

Bridge  over  the  burn,  and  profjer  fecurity  given  the  men^  by 
way  of  feu9  or  otherwife)  for  buiicking  good  houfesDii  aic-t 
gular  plan  along  the  adjoining  fliore4-<"«fca|itthc  inereafe.oC 
ibeir  fiunilies,  it  is  more  than  prdbtfble,  that  the  extent  and 
IK>pttIation  of  this  thriving  viliage  would' bo  doubled. widua 
50  jeara  hence*  % 

ytntiquitus.-^Tiit  foundations  flill  remdu  of  a  large  old 
cadle  or  FortaJiAt,  on  the  top  a  little  hill  near  Caftletown^ 
point,  about  200  feet  above  the  level  of  ti>p  (ea.  .This  mount 
is  called  by  fome,  Ormcndy  bill :  And  tradijdon  gives  the 
lume  of  Douglas  Cqftfc  to  the.  ruin*    It  coyers  an  oblong 

fpace, 

t  A«  to  (he  country  ptort  of  the  ^riQu  thovsh^dke  Urnnt  are*  m  £roenl| 
loD  highly  rented,  confideriag  the  prefent  mode  of  huibandry  here  ;  yet,  i 
the  heritors  would  be  perfuaded  to  give  their  more  adive  aod  heft  (locked 
Unantt,  leafes  for  38  ycari,  or  for  19  year*  and  a  Hfc,  at  the  prefect  rem% 
frith  fome  encoura^em^f  to  indefe  their  g^uods  and  build  bettef  ftea|ii|gs  i 
and  taking  the  the  tenants  bound  to  ha^e  always  a  third  part  0^  each  farni 
'  tinder  grafs,  and  to  keep  their  cattle  at  home  during  fummer,  and  to  winter 
herd ;  the  face  of  the  couhtry  would  be  imfSroved,  the  example  followed  by 
others,  the  condition  of  the  tenantry  amended,  afld  the  prefimt  fecarity  and 
future  intereft  of  the  landlords  promoted.  The  more  efieAQall|'  to  brilig  a« 
bout  tbofe  (9  dtfircable  objir<9s,  thirlage  fhottld  be  abolUhed,  by  parcellmg 
out  the  prefent  rent  of  each  mifn  proportfonably  upon  the  different  farms 
bound  to  it :  and  the  uCe  of  lime  and  marie,  under  proper  reftrifiions,  Ihoold 
be  introduced  and  encouraged  among  the  farmcH. 

As  the  linen  manufadure  Teems  to  be  the  moll  ag^eable,  Itid  beft  adapt- 
ed to  this  pariih,  a  good  lint  mill,  on  the  burn  of  Avoch,  would  boih  lave  t 
great  deal  of  valuable  time  which  the  inhabitants  now  fpcnd  in  dreffing  theif 
flax  by  the  (lock  and  hand  method,  and  would  tend  much  to  promote  the  fai^ 
ther  cultivation  of  it.  Machinery  for  (li iking  pot  barley,  could  be  included 
under  the  lame  roof  at  a  fmall  etpence,  and  would  probably  be  well  employ- 
ed by  both  the  country  and  the  neighbouring  towns.  I'o  theft  hints,  wc 
ihall  only  add,  that  to  fupprefs  in  future  the  fwarm  Of  unlicenfed  tippKng- 
houfes,  and  to  have  only  four  or  five  proper  perlons,  duly  licenfed,  for  retails 
tng  whilky  and  beer,  within  this  parifh,  would  be  found  produftive  cf  moft 
happy  coofe^ucnccs  to  the  morals  of  the  people  and  tht  public  good. 


tf  Aimb.  639 

fpacft^  aboDt  350  foet  lon^  apd  i<So  feet  Wad^  divided  imp 
a  good  many  apaftmentfii  which  had  been  (Iroagly  Jbuilt  of 
coarfe  red  quanry  ftone  and  Ucae,  with  a  foQe  on  one  fide* 
and  the  appeatance  pf  baftions  towards  another.  From  ita 
pocttltar  litUation,  and  apparent  ftrcngth  of  the  works,  it  may 
have  been  eafily  defended  before  the  invemiou  of  artillery. 
There  arc  feveral  traces  of  old  encampments  on  different 
moors  in  the  parifli.  A  trench  or  row  of  large  human  bone$ 
wais  lately  difcovcted,  a  good  way  beyond  the  boundary  of 
the  prefent  burying  ground.  And  there  arc  fcveral  long 
ftoncR  in  the  chnrch-yard,  of  a  hard  clofe  texture,  with  an- 
tique figtfrcs  of  fpears,  arrows,  ai^d  ftars,  carved  upon  them 
in  iitiQ  reHew*  All  thefe  may  be  vefliges  of  the  conBlf^s  of 
the  Northern  Chns,  'or  of  defences  againft  the  Danes^  and 
other  foreign  invaders  from  this  Frith.  But  no  authentic  hif* 
tory  CI  tradition^  worth  mentioning,  is  now  extant  concern* 
ingihem* 


I^KD  OF   THS  £i|TEENTH   VOLUME, 


(    641    ) 


Additional  Notes  to  the  Account  of  the  Parijh  of 
Wilton^ 

Presbttert  of  Jedbdrgh> 
Bt  Dr  Charters^ 


HI  IbUovf  ing  numeration  was  made  laft  feafon:  Males  565  \ 
females  650;  under  20,  546  ^  from  20  to  60, 576  \  above  60,  81^ 
above 80, 12  \  widowers,  26  >  widows,  6i»  The  heritors  have  late. 
ly  tleded  an  able  fchoolmailer,  ralfed  his  fakrj  from  100  merks, 
to  loL  and  built  a  commodious  fchool-houfe.  There  are  upwards 
of  100  fcholars.  Lending  books  to  the  pariihiotiers^  I  have  found 
uiefttl,  and  think  that  pkrilh  libraries,  confifting  ndt  only  of  re- 
ligious books,  but  of  fuch  as  the  StatifHcal  Hiilory,  might  be  a 
piiUic  good.  The  tendency  to  expenfive  drefs  ambng  young 
Woinen,  is  the  iame  here  as  in  other  parts. .  A  tax  on  illk,  a« 
mounting  to  a  prohibition  of  it  among  maid  fervants,  would  be 
an  advantage  to  them*  The  poor-rate  is  at  prefent  50I.  a  quar- 
tet. Some  objections  have  been  niade  to  poor-rates,  the  validi- 
ty of  which  (hould  be  tried  by  fads.  iH,  It  is  alledged  that 
pdor*rates  weaken  parental  and  filial  affe^on,  '*  the  holieft  af« 
"  fe£Uons  of  humanity.*'  Let  the  faA  be  fairly  enquired  into^ 
and  it  will  be  found,  that^many  children  labour  hard  to  prevent 
their  parents  from  receiving  an  aliment  j  and  that  children  in 
good  circumfitBccs  who  fuffer  their  parents  to  receive  it  are  iL 

fvmoiiSj 


643  Appendix  to  the 

^  famous  :-7-A  proof  that  the  cafe  is  rare.— -During  twenty  tw« 

years  xniniftry  in  a  pretty  numerous  pari(h,  where  the  poor  arc 

maiiUaiaed  by  taxation,  I   have   known  only  one  inilance  of 

children  rcfufing  to  affift  their  parents;  they  forfeited  the  efteem 

of  their  neighbours,  and  banidied  themfelTes  to  America.     Af- 

fedlipn,   both  parental  and  filial,  is  chilled  by  want  :  the  bind 

tr'a/veib,  andforfaheth  her  caify  becaufe  ibere  is  no  grafs  :   Under 

the  preffure  of  poverty,  a  mother  may  forget  her  fucking  child  ^ 

the  child  that  is  forfaken,  or  fent  out  to  beg  and  to  wander,  or 

forced  to  labour  prematurely,  retains  no  afiedlion  for  adeftitute 

parent :    Whereas,  among  a  widow  and  her  children,   who  are 

kept  together  by  an  aliment,  mutual  affcftiori   grows.     Whco 

the  aged  'receive  an  aliment,  their  poor  children  are  no  longer 

deprefied  with  the  view  of  mifcry,   which  they  were  unable  ta 

remove,  and  which  tempted  them  to  turn  away  from  their  fa- 

ther's  houfc  :  Filial  affcdlion  returns  \  ihcy  think  with  gratitude 

on  a  law    which  gives  the   neceflaries  of  life   to    their  parents, 

;ind  by  adding  fome  cordials  and  comforts,  they  teftify  andche- 

^iQi  filial  love.     The  miniiler  of  a  populous  parish,  \ivhere  there 

is  no  poors-rate,  is  diflrcffed  with  the  view  of  indigence  which 

he  cannot   relieve,  and   may  be  tempted  to  turn  away  his  eye 

from  beholding  it  :     But  under  the  benign   influence  of  poor 

laws',  he  can  enter  the  abodes  of  the  wretched,  as  the  meffengcr 

of  good  tidings.     Th^  law  which  provides  for  the  poor,  inllead 

of  dilTolving,  tend&  to  iltengthen  pafloral,  and  parental,    and 

filial  love.      2d,  It  is  alledged,  that  the  poor  rate  prevents  the 

common   people  from  layifig  up  againfl  the  time  of  need.     The 

defire  of  laying  up  is  fo  ftrong,  that  the  poor-rate  has   not  yet, 

and  probably  never  will  extinguilh.it.    A  fpiritof  independence 

pervades  the  people  5  th^y  feel  the  humiliation  of  receiving  alrosj 

ihey  difcern  the  difference  betwixt  having  of  their  own,  and  truft- 

5ng  to  what  is  given.     The  poor  law  is  an  infurance  a^ainft  un^ 

foftfeen  mi^foitune,  and  removes  that  anxious  folicitude   about 

Vfhat  ^hey  (hallcat  and  drink  and  put  on,  ^^hich  the  gofpel  has. 

ft  ^bidden. 


Parijb  of  Wilton.  643 

forbidden.  If  a  legal  provlfion  for  the  poor  ffaall  fomewhat  a« 
bate  the  general  and  ftrong  deiire  to  lay  up  treafures  on  earth  j| 
the  effect  is  happy.  View  the  poor  man  in  his  future  deilina- 
tion,  and  whatever  alleviates  mortal  cares,  (mooths  his  way  to 
immortality,  3^,  It  is  alked,  with  fome  degree  of  alarm,  what' 
will  be  the  final  confequence  of  alimenting  the  poor,— -for, 
wherever  this  tax  is  impofed,  it  increafes  gradually  ?  This  gra- 
dual increafe,^  where  it  takes  place,  may  be  owing  to  two  caufes  \ 
Firft,  that  fome  are  induced  through  falfe  fliame  to  fuffer  extreme 
want,  rather  than  accept  of  an  aliment.  Second^  that  thofe  who 
appoint  the  aliment  are  at  firll  too  fparing  \  the  more  frequently 
and  attentively  they  confider  the  cafe  of  the  poor,  they  are  dif- 
pofed  to  give  the  more.  Let  falfe  fhame  be  combated,  and  the 
mifcrable  inflruded  in  their  rights.  Let  thofe  who  have  the 
management  of  the  poor,  proceed  till  every  indigent  perfon  be 
found  out,  and  their  real  wants  fupplied..  When  all  that  need 
have  been  perfuaded  to  afk,  and  when  thofe  who  give,  have 
learned  to  give  enough,  the  rate  will  become  flationary  ^  tiU 
then  it  ought  to  rife.  The  law  which  gives  a  maintenance  tq 
the  poor,  is  one  of  the  bulwarks  of  the  Britifh  government,  by 
which  it  is  defended  from  the  rage  of  want  and  defpair.  Heri« 
tors  and  Kirk  ScfTions,  to  whom  the  execution  of  this  law  i^ 
committed,  will  give' a  fubllantial  and  feafonable  proof  of  their 
attachment  to  our  happy  Conflitution,  by  making  the  poor  of  the 
land  to  participate  its  bleOings.  Were  thofe  who  lately  aflume4 
to  themfclves  the  amiable  name.  Friends  of  tbf  Peopiej  to  new- 
model  our  Conflitution,  it  is  much  to  be  feared,  that  a  law  iq 
favour  of  the  indigent  would  not  be  found  in  their  code  ^  an4 
if  fuch  a  law  were  found  in  their  code,  it  is  dill  much«to  be  fear-^ 
ed,  that  the  new.poiTcirors  of  unrighteous  mammon,  would  not 
be  forward  to  execute  the  law  of  mercy. 

N.  B.  Thp  carpet  and  inkle  faftorics,  mentioned  in  the  hifl 
tory  o£  Ha>rf  ick,  are  the  fame  that  were  formerly  mentioned  yi 
tbc  hiflory  of  Wilton,  where  they  aftually  arc.