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1
r'
:;:jn.v\c .--..
1
THE
STATISTICAL ACCOUNT
OF
SCOTLAND.
THE
STATISTICAL ACCOUNT
or
SCOTLAND.
DRAWN U? FROM THE COMMUNICATIONS
or THE
M I N I Sr E RS
OF THE
DIFFERENT PARI S BlrOE'S/
' * -' '^'- J'
By Sir JOHN SINC L AIRz/BaVV:'.:';;/
VOLUME NINETE ENThV vV*:
^AiconfiUum de repubiica JanJum, caput eft, nojfe rempuhlicam?^
Cic&RO, de Orat. lib. ii.
EDINBURGH:
PRINTED AMD SOLD BT WILLIAM CREECH ;
AlfD ALSO SOLD BT J. DONALDSON, A. GUTIIRIK, W. LAING^
4MD JO. FAIfcBAIR.N« BDINBURGB \ T. CADELL, J. DEB-
ABTTy AND J. SBWBL, LONDON \ DUNLOP AND WIL-
iON| OLAf GOW ; AND ANGUS AKD SON, ABEKDBBN.
• • • '
• • • • •, • , •• . ••
• • • . •• •
• • • •
CONTENTS.
No. Ktmc PopuUti
I Halkirk,
a Falkirk,
3 Roxburgh, -
4 Aberdeen *,
5 Alneis,
6 Stornoway,
7 Barvas,
8 Lochs,
9 Uig.
10 Rhjnie and Effie,
11 Abojne and Glen
tanar,
n Bojndie,
[3 South Knapdale,
t4 Kinclaven,
15 Bendothy,
16 Tannadice,
17 Rothtemay,
18 Orphir,
Carried over,
in 175s.
In 1790-7.
S07S
^180
8020
393*
784
840
»S433
24493
1090
II2I
i8ia
2639
'995
2006
1267
1768
1312
1898
836
68x
169s
1050
994
1260
1292
1524
993
1150
"93
878
1491
1491 +
1190
1125
855
826
41339
55950
4088
56
9060
827
XI
586'
266
232
^57
15920
Hi-
4*5
29
1309
I
114
140
234
.*4i
.•*?3
308.
327
334
37a
385
394
* In the Afpekdix there is additional communication re>
fpe£Ung the Town of Aberdeen.
f Stated at the fame number as in 1755, no return of the
- -.1 hi ion having been given in, in confcquence of the living
ling vacant, though probably increafed.
in
CONTENT 1
Ko. Name. FSopulatio
Brought over,
19 Kilmanj,
10 Dunning,
a I Tundergarth,
a 2 Annan,
93 Tarbolton,
34 Longforgan,
15 Maddcrty,
26 Minto,
37 CoUington,
28 Innerleithen,
29 Glenbucket,
30 Yctholm,
31 Auldearn,
31 Killeafi and Kil-
'.\ >og«Httton.in 1755,
••.-.% •lhC5«»ft-Ji»-l*79o-7.
Din 1755.
I11X790.7.
bernfe.
Decnafe.
Pap
41339
55950
i59»o
1309
785
869
84
410
I491
1600
109
434
625
510
"S
443
1498
2500
1002
447
'365
1200
165
433
1285
1J26
241,
459
796
631
165
563
396
513
H7
570
792
1395
603
579
559
560
I
59»
430
449
«9
607
699
976
277
609
1951
1406
545
616
2391
1911
480
6i^
56402
71996
18373
2779
56402
»5594
2779
15594
• • • •
a •• • •
STAT IS-
STATISTICAL ACCOUNT
or
SCOTLAND-
PART XIX.
NUMBER. I. ' V:
PAR
:•'•
ISH OF HAhKAi.%\:'. J<-.
(CouUTT OF Caithness, Synod of C AMArtM- A)ifc-
Sutherland, Presbytert of Caithnes&J* A^ '
Bj the Rev. Mr JoHN Cameron, Minijer.
Prelimtnary Obfirvations,
THE traft of ground, which is now called by the gene-.
ml name of ihe parifli of Halkirk, co»fiftcd formerly,
pf two pariOies, vi%. of Skinnet and Halkirk. At what
particular period they were united I have not yet beea
able to learn, bat I have reafon to fufped that their union,
took place fome time after the Reformation. Nay, cir«
cumftftDces make it ytxj probable, that the part of which
the parllh of Halkirk confifted, when it was erefled into a
VoL^XIX. A ftated
2 Siaii/lical Account
jbted jNurifliy was no parifli at all before the RefonnatioB v
bat that the other part, which was called the parifli of'
Skinnety was a dated pariih of verj early date before diat'
period, ^alkirk9 by all I can learn or conjectures was
originally no more than a chaplainry, occupied by the Bi-
Ihop's chaplain, who alfo ferved the great family, that had
one of its feats at Brawell, a pUce very near the chapel, in * .
that capacity.. Here. alfo the Biihop had one of his feats,
within a very few yards of the prefent manfe. It was
here, as I have it from report, that the Biihop,. whofe name
I do not recoiled, was aflaflinated in a*^moft fliameful, crueU.
and barbarous manner, by a fet of rui&ans from Harpfdale,
a place belonging to the chaplainry. Thefe favages were
called the fops of John of Harpfdale, whom the then EarL
of Caithiie&*rnborned, as inftruments very fit for the exe*
cutioQ. df ttrAt alarming and horrid deed: The reafon why
^c ]^iArrfvffKed and executed this atrocious defign was, as
^•/!'l('is ce^bftc'a, tpl^ revenged of the Bifhop for alTefling his
C*•*^ "ffijf^s 111 t1ieL*cliup^inry with an addition to the chaplain^ls
> * fiYV3fc« V^C^' augmentation being very difagreeable to tbe
YgdSt/pCi of courfe to his tenants, roufed their refentment,..
ancf )>recipitatedthem into this (hocking deed. A moil ez^
emplary and extraordinary punifliment was infliSed on the
inftigators and perpetrators of this murder, at the inftaace,
and by the fpecial diredion of King Alexander IL who, to
his great credit and honour* exerted bimfelf in a remark*
able manner, in the 'difcovery, condemnation, and pu-
nifliment of thefe prefumptuous culprits. What is record-
ed in hiflory concerning tliis affair, feems to corroborate
what I have from report; and from the concurrent tefti*
mony of both, there is reafon to believe, that this was the
nobleft and moft diftinguifliing aAion of that King's life.
But to return to the hiftory of the pariflies : —
OrigifL
ttf Halkirh 3
Vrtgtn of the Names. — The fpot where the chapel for«
^merly ftpod, and where now the kirk of the two united
parilhes Hands, is a fmall round hiU| in the middle of a
large extenfive plain. From this fpot, as the centre^ thete
is a very gent4e rife, almoft in every direftion, to the fur-
roonding hills. Fram wthis circumilance, <it is more than
probable, the parifli deiives its name.; for the rifing ground
whereon the kirk ftands is called T[or4 Harlogan^ and the
kirk, TTettumful Harlo^an^ and io retain the original Irilh
aames, though the parifh is called by the name oiJSacriggp
and more frequently of Halkirk^ which are manifeiUy a
corruption of the original name, 7brf , olaggaa, No«^j^«
/Off, in Earfe, fignifies a low^place, the lowed in the neigh-
bourhood, and ^ore^ a mount or fmall hill. Thus the ori-
ginal name was compounded of Tore and Laggan \ and had
it not been that the chapel was built on the fmall Tore^ or
hillt that is, in the middle of this low place or laggan^ this
pariib would have been called parlfh of Loggie, or Si/r, a*
^ggon% or Laggy^ as other parifhes in Scotland are calledf
for the lame reafon, as is evident, from the low fituation of
the place of worihip, when compared with the reft of the
pariih } whence it is very prefumable, that the original
aatne of this pariih was, Skira^ Tiore^ o Laggan^ but in
coorfe of time was com^ted into the name Hacrigg^ which
has no meaning but analogy of found \ and becaufe the
fimnd Hacrigg refembles the Engliih word HaUiri, it was
#oiiverted into that name.
As to the name of the other parifh, it is fometimes pro-
nounced Skinnet^ fometimes Siiniie, fometimes Skinilt^
fboietimes Skinnofif fometimes Skinine. Nothing can be
condoded from this confufed variety of pronunciation;
4mt from the fituation of the kirk, with the aid of thele
ibunds, I have reafen to believe that the real name ihould
3ie Siiw Noylu^ the Wing of the Bum \ for that place goes
off
4 SiiUifikal Acamni
off from the buni that mss befide it, b the fonn of m
wing*.
KimaH^m ati Emimi.^^-^Thit two onited pariAics, or what
b now caUed bj the cqqiiikmi nsae of Halkirk, isia kngdi
34 milca from N. to S. W. Its breadth is Tarioos, being
in feme places la, in other places 10, in ibnae 8, in others
7 miles, from the N. £• to the N. W. It is bounded on
the N. bj the pariih of Thnrfo ; on the N. £• bjr die pa-
fiflies of Bower and Wattin ; on the 8. and S. W. bjr the
pariflbesofLatheron, KUdonnan, Reaj; on the W* by n
detadied part of the pariih of Thnrfo, and on the N. W.
bj the parifb of Reaj again. It is fitnated in the connt j
and prefl) jterj of Caithneis, and belongs to the provineial
Synod of Caithneis and Sutherland. It is an inland pariih,
and die mofi centrical in the coonty.
Soil. — ^The foil is in general very good, though y^tj va>
rious. lo fome parts it confifis of a mixture of clay and
loam, in fon^e of a heavy or light kind of clay altogether,
in maoy parts of a mixture of clay and a light kind of
mois,
* The river that rum by the kirk h csHed Amhine Th»rft, /. #• River
vTTborfo; whence it may he foppobbk. that the rhrcr it eallcd tnm a
perfoa or place, as riven oomnxmlj are. The place or peribo might have
been termed Tttfr. or Tborfa, a Daniih word ; now, Tkor, or Thor/a, as
it might have been pronounced in that labgoage, it the name of a oortir-
tsn deitj* from which was derived the oaoBe of a day, Tborlday, nd of
perfons, with fome variations and compofitioos. Thus, for Miftaace.
there were of old of the name OdJsn^ or O^Detae^ another northern deity,
from wbidi wc have iVtdAtnfSay or Oddimfday^ or O^D»me/dmj: and
^Ibeie are to this day perfons of a name patronimically derived from it»
V$%. Mac9iosm€, or Oddtn*s Son. Thit may lead to a difeovery of the
liame of this parifii. The place whertf the kirk ftands is truly a k^mtt
pr low place, in the ft rid fen fe of the word ; and then, why might it not
lie compounded by the addition cf Tlw, or Tb$rfa, and fo called. Jl^r
p^Li^an, or Tharjd 0* Idiggjn, i, e. The low place of TAar, or Thor/a ;
as Tbttrib is in Carle called Jmwr Thr/k^ i, #. The Mouth of Tfaorfe.
7I1US Invemefi, iJc. From TUr feveral names are alio derived, as ^o^
of Halkirk. 5
mo&, and in feyeral parts it is gravellifli or fiuidy,. or
cfaiogilj. It is in general not deep, rather fhallow; in
foaie parts too fhallow and rocky. The fnrface is rather
fiat ; &r thongh there are feveral hills or rifing grounds,
yet thej are of no confiderable height, bavmg a very gen-
tle declivity in genera! from their fummits to the fabjacent
plains, efpecially in the lower end of the pariih.
Difadvantages arifing from the Soil^ (^r^— To the cir-
cmnftances above mentioned relative to the foil may be
afcribed, in a great meafore, its wetnels, which prevaib
very mncb, efpecially in winter, fpring, and latter end of
harvcft ; befides, the fogs, tnd mills, and rains, which are
rather too freqtient in this conntry, contribate much to
tbis diiagreeable qnality ; another circnmftance which tends
to its wetnels, is the kind of ftrata; which, in general, is not,
io the arable ground, and other places, more than i foot,
or i-f-, or a feet at the utmoft, below the fnrface. Thefe
ftrata in many places confift of a hard, heavy, petrified kind
of clay, which may properly be called eap$a mortuum. In
moft places, efpecially in the lower end of the pariih, they
confift of flags, as they are here called, or large thin ftones,
which lie in a horizontal pofition, and run clofe to one an-
other, without any great interval or interruption. From
thefe two laft circumilances it happens, that the furface is
kept perpetually wet, except in the fummer and harveft,
for neither of thefe flrata will fufier the water to fink or
filtrate throngh them, therefore it muft remain on the fur-
face, till it is either exhaled by fun and wind, or runs
off along thefe ftrata to the adjacent fwamps, lakes, and
boms, which, by the bye, muft be very flow, the declivity
to thefe being in many places very inccnfiderable. This,
moreover, oceafions, in a great meafure, the great damp-
nefi or chiUineb of the ground, which are fo inimical to
yej^etation, and peculiairly noxious to the roots of trees,
and
STATISTICAL ACCOUNT
OF
SCOTLAND.
DRAWN UP FROM THE COMMUNICATIONS
OF THE
M I N I Sr E RS
OF T H E
•*• •• •
DIFFERENT PARI S H:£'5/
• • • • • •
Bt Sir JOHN SIN C LAI R,:*BAK;f; •/;;;/ ^
VOLUME NINETE ENThVV--':'
^Adamfiiatm de refiMica JanJum, caput eft, noffe rempuhltcam^
Cicft&o, de Orat. lib. iv
EDINBURGH:
FRINTED AND SOLD BT WILLIAM CREECH ;
Ain> A.L80 SOLD BT J. DONALDSON, A. GUTIIRIB, W. LAING>
AND JO» FAIILBAIBN9 BDZNBUHGB \ T. CADBLL, J. DEB-
RSTT| AND J. 8BWBL, LONDON \ DVNLOP AND WIL-
iON^QLAlGOW \ AND ANGUS AHD SON, ABERDBEN.
B Statyiical Account
cing annually large crops of grals, very fit for hay or pa-
ftaragc. Thefe, becaufe of their low fituation, arc drenched
with water moiUy all the winter and fpring, which cir*
cumftance contributes much to the luxuriancy of their
crop. Moil of our hills or rifing grounds, aiid alfo of our
moors, are well adapted for what we call ordinary or High*
land pailurage, and capable of maintaining a vetj great
number of cattle. Thefe circumflances, together with the
want of inclofures and winter herding, are in a great
meafure the caufes why the people do not trouble them-
felves with raifing any crops of clover and rye-grals.
Of late years, indeed, feveral attempts have been
made this way, which have been very fuccefsful; and
it is to be hoped, that this ufeful prafiice will foon
become more general. The reft ^ of the parifli confifls
of fwamps, marihes, bogs, or deep mofs, all of great
extent, but very fit for Highland pafturage for the
greateft part of the year. When to thefe are added the
great number of lakes or lochs, (mall and great, which are
&Im«ft in every quarter of the pariih, there is reaibn to be-
lieve that the fiftieth part of it is not in culture. Yet, after
all, it will be allowed, that it has the greateft variety, the
^eateft advantages, as well as the mod pleafimtand enter-
taining profpeds, of any pariih in the county.
Climate^ — Mutual Influence of Soil and Climate on on^
onotbeTf — Difadvantage from that Influenci. -^Though the
climate is tiot in general very agreeable, yet I am perfua-
ded it is much better than it is reprefented and imagined
to be by people of other countries. For they who come
only for a flart into the country, have no great opportunity
of knowing it \ and they who never were in it, arc, from
the report/ of thofe who were, prejudiced againft it. Be-
fides, from its more northern fituation, they are apt to con*
dude that the dificrcnce between this climate and theirs is
more
af Halkirki . 9
more than it a^hiallj is. Bat i will not h^fitate t6 aflBrm,
that^ had our climate been equally good with oar foil, the
inhabitants of more fouthem counties would covet otir
more northern fituation. However^ it muft be acknow-
ledged, that neither our climate or foil are fo agreeable as
could be wiflied^ and that the refpe^tive nature of each, con-
tributes mutuallj to this difagreeable circumilance^ Thtfj
have a mutual influence on one another, as may appear
hereafter in the courfe of thefe obfervations.
But this dilagreeableneis proceeds not fo ihueb from
our northern fituation, as from other caufes ; fuoh as the
fwampnels and flatnefs of the country^ its aboundiiig
fo much in fens, marihes, lakes, %ic.\ its being expofed^
without any interruption, to the baleiiil influences of the
N. N. W. and N. £• ; and fin^y, to the hills and moun«
tains on the S. and S. W. which inviron it in thefe quar«
ters, and intercept, in fome degree, the genial "and behign
infiiiences of the S. and S. W« From thefe high hills or
mountains, which are, as it were, the barriers between this
country and Sutherland, there is a declivity all along to
the N. N. W. and N. £. fhores. T\\\$ contributes confi-
derably to the coldnefs, the inconflancy, and variablenels
of our climate, being thereby devoted to all the evils that
come upon us from thefe quarters^ over an immenfe traft
and body of water to the north pole. But thi» circum-
ftaoce is not more hurtful and difadvamageou» to ns^ than
it is beneficial and advantageous to the neighbouring
coQttty« For thefe mountains flielter and defend them from
many of thefe evils to which we are expofed ; apd I am
truly of opinion, that bad thefe mountains been fituated in
a contrary diredion to us, and the declivity of the country
in a contrary diredion alfo, y^t would have a more agree-
able dimaie and foil than we have, though, by the bye, all
things confidered, we have no gr^t caufe to complain.
Vol. XIX. '8 Ail
i<5 Statijlkal -Account
All this time I have been |;iving a dcfcriptibn of Hie'
climate of the country in general, when I fiiouM hav*-
confined my thtttightt to this parifh in particular ; but this,
makes no difference, for almoft every particular ttet is ap-
plicable to this pariflii is in a degree lefs or more applicable
alfo to the whole country at large. But ta proceed :
From the mutual influence of the foil and climate on
otkt smother, arife the frofts, the noxious winds, the dorms-
with which we are vifited frtfqoerttly in April, May, and-
foinetimes in June -, for when the air has a currency from
the N. N. E. and N, W. it fcours along the counory>.
armed &nd impregnated wich till the noxious and nippicig
qualities it gisitfters or^ contra^s in its progrefs over the
north feas ; and iheTe qodliti^s ftfe again fecondtfd arid im-
proved by what, in its progrefs over the land, it receives-
from the wetnefs and dampueis of the foil^ and from the
murihes, fens, lakes, and deep mofs, witb which it abounds^
to this alfo is to be aferibed the frofty and blading inflaen«
ces of the air, fometimes hi Atrguft- and often in Septem-
ber. Hence the vapours, mifts, and mildews, which are
fometimes very hurtful in that feafbn of the year, to the
great difappointment of the farmer* . Thefe are uo lefs ini- -
mical to the crops of trees and tender vegetables ; to th&
bud, the foliage, and the tender part of the branches, thar
was the growth of the immediately prec(Siing year knd>
feafon, than the dampneb and fhallownefs of the foil is to
the root. But yet I muft fay, that feveral fruit-trees, and
other kinds of timber, would grow and thrive here pretty^
well, if their crops could be defended and iheltered from ~
thefe inBu'ences of the N^ N. E. and Ni W, I am warranted^
in this aflertion by obfervations I have made on a fir plant-
ing in my neighbourliood, - belonging to Sir John Sinclair^,
and planted by hb father. About i8 years ago the young
trees made no impronufing appearance ^ on the cootrai^.
thqr tcmn^i in » blpoujiiiKg, li v^^, and thiivjbag Affl^, umU
by degm» thej uvtXVof^i tbe dikes and feoce^ ^heii^bjr
they are indofied. .From that date they ivitbered and de-
cayed gradually in their crops'; the balefiil infection, which
made an eafy prey of tbe tender ^rops.oEthe branches,
communicating itfelf therefrom downwards to the ftrooger
parts, and frpm thence to the farface of the ground. The
whole planting is now decayed to the very root, which ftill
retains fome life and vigour, and the branches flioot out
from it almoft flat on the fur&ce of the ground to fome
diftance, and wear a green and vivid appearance. Fromthis
circomflance it is evident, that though the fcnl is pot the
moft favourable to planting, yet if the inflaences of the
north could be prevented from the ctop, timber of feme
kinds would thrive here pretty well ; yet I by no means
think, that the fir is any wife calculated for growing in this
country.
To thefe caufes muQ aUb be attributed the jdiiQculty of
making roads in this parifii, and indeed in the country in
general* By Sir John Sinclair's example, and the encou-
ragement given by him, the whole country was animated,
and heartily engaged, in making, repairing, and improving
roads, which proved to be a great advantage ; but yet, from
the caufes above mentioned, there is reafon to apprehend,
that what k already done in this way will foon krv^ no
other purpofe but only a dire^on to ft rangers, if more labour
and expence^ with more attention, be notbeftoweduponit \
and we may be thankful, if even after that the roads will
be tolerable for more than one half of the year. However,
the country has great credit from the exertions they have
^ready made, and ftill continues to make, in oppoiitioA to
cbefe difficukies ; and it is to be regretted, that their fuccefs
i&aa hitherto been far, verj far fliort of their laudable exer^*
<tiofu. At the iaac titne, it is to be hoped, that by the plan
now
12 Staii/ikal Account
now adopted, if executed with perfeverance, ever/ diffi-
culty will be furiBounted, and the country accommodated
Co their wiQi in fufficient and durable roads.
Salubniy of the Climatic Htaltb o/tbt PtopU^ Longevity^
C/r.— From the above obfervations on the foil and climate*
a perfon would be apt to conclude, that they muft be ini-
mical to healtht and very prolific of a variety of diflempers
which detraft from the comforts of life, and confine it to a
very contraAed period ; more efpecially when the extra-
ordinary ineonftancy of the climate is coniidered, which
often goes to extreme in the fpace of 24 hours ; for'ic is
not unufual to be vifited here with all the coldnefs and ri-
gours of winter, and the fervour and beat of a funimer-day,
in the fpace of 12 hours. But I can fay from experience
and obfervation, as well as from the teftimony of the oldeft
perfons here, that there is not a: more healthy country in
Britain, efpecially to thofe who are its natives, or are nata-
ralifed to it. There is no difeafe that can be called pecu-
liar to it ; neither are the difiempers by which we are vi-
fited more frequent, or more fatal and violent, than in other
(Countries, that are efteemed very healthy and falubrious.
Hence the natives are in general very healthy, vigorous,
firm, agile, well proportioned, excellently calculated to un-
dergo fatigue and hardlhips \ nay, I believe that in thefe
qualities they excel, and that this, with their adive and
fenterprifing fpirit, is the reafon why this country is the
firft, the readied, and heft nurfery for the Britifi) army.
There are befides inftances of longevity not a few. In the
courfe of my iocuinbenpy, there have been feveral men
and women who furvived 100 years and upwards, many
who exceeded 80, and at prefent there are a fcore who are
either 90, or on the confines of that period, and moft of
tljetn perfe^y found both in body and mind. Here I
ihould
of Halkirk. 13 ,
ftoold not omit obfervingf that there is a man in my near
neighboorhoody on the borders of 80 years, who can num-
ber upwards of lao perfons of his own progeny, beiidea
thote who have died. The number is ftill increafing by
his diildren, grandchildren, great-grandchildren, \3c\\ and
what is worthy of particular remark, he is ftill healthy and
vigorous, and is as able to add to the number hy his owa
perfooal exertions, as he was feveral years- ago ; fo that if
he be fpared but for a few years, I have no doubt but he
may fee the number doubled.
Mtmral Springij-'^Difcovay of Lime and MarL^^From
the circumftances above mentioned, relative to the foil and
climate, it will naturally be concluded that there are a
great many fprin^js in the pariAi *, fo there are, in very
great abundance, and of moft excellent quality in general.
That fome of thefe fprings are mineral I have no doubt ;
bat of what kind of mineral, and for what particular kind
of diftenipers they may be lalutary, I am not naturalift
enough to enable me to determine. There is only one in
the parifli that attraAed the attention of the people, and to
which they afcribe falntary effeds ; it is called the Well of
Halkirk, fituated in the near neighbourhood of the church ;
and its water has been ufed for a cure by fick perfons in«
difcriminately, but not near fo much fo as formerly. What
benefit they have derived, or do derive from it, neither
they nor 1 can tell, unlefs it flattered and gratified their
imagination at the time. It is very limpid and clear, of a
moftpleafant relilh, and rtfes in 'great abundance with a
perpendicular force from bottom to top. On its furface
lies always a thin, beautiful kind of fubftance, that varies
like the plumage of the peacock, difplayed in all its glory
to the rays of ihe fun. Whi brought this fpring to a parti-
cular notice beyond other fprings in the parilh, which, for
- aught
K4 Sifiiifiical Apcount
^uigbt I know, «iay bt fqu^lljr mcdidiMU Ml fditbii-
«usy was the. foUowiog drcumfiaace ; One of my predc-
^pflbts in office, who happened to have fome koowledg^e of
fbyfic, reibrtedtD it pcrpecvally whik be liired, aii4 W9s
. «ble to wsvU^ t9 it, apd draak pf it moft copioufly . Ia the
iQ0iir£e of hU reitei^ced vifits he dificovered a rich kind of
iQgrl and limeQonc round the welL Whether the water
i:Qli^ib»ted to hU health I know not, but I am fore it coo-
^ributed tp bis pl^furet and ^t the Iiidjb and mart availed
much to the fertility of his glebe and fmaU fiarou To this
iimple incident is to be afcribed the firft ufe of mineral
water, and the firfi ufe and dilbovery of time and marl ia
thia pari of the coontry.
jMhs.^r^fiL% the pariSi abounda in fpriofp, fo ia prppor-
tipn it a^un^s in Istkes. There are no }els than a4 great
^f)4 fPV^* I'be moft coafi4erable are the b>c]is of Cathel,
<Qf J^ixrary, Lochinore, l^ehmepdy \ bat the largeft is that
fOtf pathel 9 it is 3 pijle# Ipngi a broad, if not more, very
•deep, and aln^oft perpetp^y full to its faitbeA hanks*
Tbry ^ abouiw} with ej^ikat trput, wi eel of di&rent
kinds and fiz^e^ \ tbefe ^fS diQer alfo in colour, according
to the nature of the lake where they v^re fpawne,d. In the
lake of Cathel |hei;e af e troMts, which are found no where
^\{p in the country, ^f % reddifli beautiful colour, a pretty
ihape, vfrry fat, ^nd vioft pjeafant eating. I fufpeft they
^e that iiii|d of fi(b which naturaliOs call freih-water her-
rfuQg. There are no pike-&lh in any of them, which is an
s^vant^gf, for r^aibns well koowo.
Riveru thar F{fl>^ au4 JJrii^«,— TThere are ftvcnij .wa-
ters in the pari(hy which are perpetually (applied froffi
thefe lakes, and fome otber takes in the i^eighhouring pa-
riihes* In dme of fpeat or floo^i HX iMe wa^m are both
drtadftil
€f Halkirk. »5
^adTnt and dangerous, iftBd 6ft«n otn^rfldvr and inundace
the vafltes and plains through which tlv^y run, efpecially
ki the heights of the ^rilh, whi^re they are attended ^b
feme damagie, yet n6oe df them m«ritsah« native of a m^y
hot one, which, is tailed the riv«r of TifUrfi, This rivtr
originates principally at Loch more, ft rery beautiful lake
in the height df the parilh. In its courfe it receives all
the other Waters tod ftreaa^s^ wM^h it difcharges at Thuar-
fb into tf)e Petttlahd fttch. ^hey all aboYind with e«celle«t
trout and ee! ; but thfe rivet <^f Thuf-fo is vl^ry diftinguifll^
abk fbr Cslmon, ^any in mMnher, and etceUiftiic %n ^tilicy>
It is aHow<ed, Ihat better abd more agreertle &liWon is oot
to be found any where \. I beliere ft is alfo tbe «airlieA ia
Britain fOr <iirn(fting Chat fith ; Hiay, it wants ^not doa*
and frefh falnMi every '^tj id t%« year ; yet the ^ttxWg t£
it is of tate 'f^Sits'¥€vf flauteh on ttle d^eUne % to wivat oaufe
this is to be attrTbu^d-, it is fMt cfeBftcult to conj>£tol<»b If
this is not (eafonabty adverted to and obviated, it -is to be
feared that a very fine and nfeiill faknont-fiflifDg tnay, in m
few years, lie redtfted fo Mthing. From this river the
town of Thnrfo derives its natne ; for the name^f the ri-
ver is Thorfa in Earfe, txA of the town fnver of Thoffa»
Why the rfver is called Thorfa I cannot teU, nn)6ft it ivas
fe calM tfom Thor, a Scandanaviltn deity. It runs almoft^
all along in ^ftoney or fandy charmel, is very Yapid and
impetuous )h fiine of fpeat, and in cet'tain feafons of the
year, prov^ a ^at ttiror to all Who inhabit near its banks ^
for it fometimes happens that it fweeps away eom and hay
in harveft froitk all the plains and valUes throogfa which it
pafles into the fea, and fometimes the tilled ground, to the
great Idft^anddifappointment of the farmer, and detriment of
the knd; yet few rivers are more beautifa],'Or run through
a tnore pleaCant traft t>f eountry . There is a great variety
•f profpeAtidob^jts bank% which aire bordered with rich
aaeadows^
16 Statijlical AccQurU
meadows, fertile fields, ahnoft to its fource, vis. Lochmore^
where the falmon delight to dwell in great abundance, and
to which they all run, if not prevented in their courfe.
There are no bridges worth noticing on anjr of thefe
waters, (only one on the laft mentioned), which is the
occafion of great inconveniency to the inhabitants of this
parifh in particular, and to the country in general, and no
lels fo to ftrangers and trarellers from other countries* This
, bridge is of pretty long ftanding, extremely well built,
very ftrong and fufficient ; there is none in the north of
Scotland can excel it in ftrudnre and ftrength \ for if it had
not been wonderfully ftrong, and well adapted to the na«
ture of the river, and other circumftances too tedious to
mention, it would haye been deftroyed and fweeped away
itiany years ago ; it has got very fevere trials during my
incumbency, which very few bridges could withftand, and
yet continues as firm and unimpaired as at the beginning,
and is likely to ftand for ages, if any the leaft attention is
paid to it, which it well deferves. It is of mighty advan-
tage to the country } but yet, before many inconveniencies
and dangAa arifing from the river can be obviated^ more
bridges than one would be necefiary. It was projeded by
Sir George Sinclair of Clyth^ one of Sir John Sinclair's
predeceflbrs, for the accommodation of his tenants in the
neighbourhood, (who are numerous), and of the country at
large, and he left and configned a fum for the execution of
it. It was accordingly undertaken and executed by John
Sinclair of Ulbfter, £fq; Sir John Sinclair's grand&ther,
who, to the original fum deftined for that purpofe, added
liberally out of his own funds* It flands in the near neigh-
bourhood of the church, at the diftance of 6 miles from the
town of Thurfo, and confifts of 3 arches. Before I dofe
\ thb article, I ihould mention another water, which runs only
through a fmall part of this pariifai at the extremities of it,
and
. pf Halkirk. n
uA is next in bignefi( to the laft tnentiooeda I m^ao the
water or river of Forfi* It 14 a yer j rapid and dapgeroua
water, efpccially in lime of fpeat, abounds with exccUent
troot, aqd a confiderable nun^ber of falmon are ii(hed ip it
everjr jcar ; a few years ago there was a very good bridge
built upon it| at a pla9e in the parifh o^ Reay, and very
few watery in the country need ic more.
HUls and MountMfu^'^H'^ying in fome meafure antici-
pated the article of hills or mountains, in my oblervationa
on the foil and climate, very little may be fiud of them
here. The only hill that is any wife worthy of notice, is
that of Sptttal. The fummit of it is 4 miles from the
neareft bank of the river Thurfo, from whence there is
a vfxj gentle elevation to its bafe» From this to the dm*
mit the acclivity b very confiderable. It is green all over,
not very high, though yet I believe it is the highell in thlf
end of the country. It has the command of a very plea-
iaot, grand, and eztenfive profpe^, being the moft centri-
cal in the country. Immediately on a perfon's arrival at
the to^ the Orjuiey Ifles, the Pentlaod frith, theffupendu-
OQs rocks 00 each fide of the friths and the furrounding feas,.
bnrft on his view at once, and overwhelm him with fur-
prife and tranfport \ nor is he leis delighted when he be-
holds the whole country expofed in all its varieties, as it were,
ia a map, to his eye, looking down from this elevated
centre on the grand Subjacent and circumjacent objeds. It
is I believe 7 miles difiant from the north fiiore, la miles
from the eaft fliore, and 14 from the north«weft fliore, ha-
ving a gradual, gentle afcent from thefe Ihores, with the
interruption of fome fmall hills or rifing grounds. Its pre-
cife height I cannot determine, having neither the opportu-
oUy nor the inftruments proper for taking it. The name
Vol. XIX. C os
x8 Statijlical Account
pf it Is derived from the religious hoafe, irhich was imme-
diatelj below it, called the Bbfpitali by way of ccntrac-
tjon^ Spitcal.
Another hiU ihottid not here be omitted ; lecaufe,
though it is not in this parilh, it is yet on the near confines
of it, I mean the hill of Dorrary. Its diftanc^ From the
Spittal Hill is about x 2 or 13 miles due weft. "It is of con-
iiderable heigh tj if taken from the ihore or the pharcht of this
parifli. There is a good deal of arable ground about its
^afe,. which yields good crops of ^om, a prodi^ous quantity
of natural hay, and affords excellent paftuie for a great
qumbcr of cattle ; it is, therefore, eileemed the befi High-
land farm in. the country. It belongs to the pariih of
Thurfo, tfiough not within 4 miles of any part of that pa^
rilh. It is a part of the bi/hop-lands, was a Ihieling be-
longing to the biOiops of this county, and from this cir-
cumfiance it derives its name. It commands the fame
grand extenfive profpeS with the other hill, though it is
Qot fo centrical.
Afar/, Stones, Limcftonif Afi/»«.— There have been dif-
covered of late figured ilones, having the impreflion of
plants and fifhcs. Thefe were found in the courfe of at-
tempts that were made by the direftion and encourage*
pent of Sir John Sinclair, to difcoyer mines. I have been
alfo informed, that ihells of feveral kinds have been, and
are ftill to be found in feveral parts of this pariQi \ and this
is not to be doubted, iince great q pan titles of marl, excel-
lent in its kind, are found in feveral parts, and applies} to
land with great fucccfs and advantage.
As to [tones, having anticipated this article, I will only
further obferve, that there is no freefione in this parifii ;
that there are excellent lime-quarries, attended with this
^reat advantage, vm. excellent peat-banks clofe by them *,
and
oftialkirk. ly
aad that the lime they produce far excels any we get, from
•ny other country. i
As to amines, the furface of the ground, the colour of the
fabfiapce which €oyer3 feveral fpringSi the colour with
whidi the flreains of thefe fprings tinge their channels and
banks^ the efiays and attempts that have been made for
di&overy of min^s^ Jurniih every fymptom and appearance
that minea are not wanting in this parifh. But I much
fiiTpefly that-more labour, expeocei gnd perfeverance is ne«
cef^ry to. prove fuccelsfuU What kind of mines thefe ap-
pcaranqes fudicate, I will not pretend to determine. But
this I cap iay«. that feveral years ago 1 faw the beginning
of a vein, but very trifling, and (awalfo pure lead extrafted
from the -ore^ Furti^er^ I . obferved in this parifh, and ie^v
veii^l parts of the c9i^Qtry, a very heavy hard kind of
brown ilonoi in great abundance, on the fur&ce of the earthy
whifch I aip apt to conclude may be iron ore, but whether
good or bad of its kind I cannot fay. This depends on
truL
TbunJtr^ TCempefis, JVat£r-j[ppttti.—t\m pariit is fpin^i
times vifited with thunder, lightning, tcn^pefts, hurricanes,
water^fpouts, terrible in their appearan^e,^ bi^t in general j
attended' with po confiderable mifchief. Till about 5 years
ago,, thunder for. ievetal years was vei'y rare, more efp^-
ctally during the late bad and unfavourable years ; fo tnnch
ib, that th^ country rejoiced when they heard on a ihom-
ing, repeated claps of thunder ip thefe hard times ^flat-
tering tbemfelves with the hopes, that they were to ttflier in
a change to the better in the feafons, as they had^not heard
them for a long time before. But they were difappointed
in their ezpe£latiops, for the weather immediately after^
wards became ;more cpld and (tormy. They are corifider-
ably more frequent and loud of late years. Earthquakes^
which
20 Statijlical Account
which commotily happen with fiicb dorms and tempeSs
as we have fonetimes here, were never felt 6t knoWn in
this parifh or country, fo far as T czh learn. Three li^tnark-
able water-fpouts happened in the cotirfls of thSfe laift 50
years. The lall one happened about 13 years igo. It ap-
jpears from the altonilhing tSk&s they ptxiiiAced ^ SKhd
near the places where they fell, th)it had they happened in
any of the inhabited parti 6f die paxiih, the ccinib)oetiec»
would have been lameatable and iatal indeed. They Sell
on the high and remote parts <^ the patiih, winch win best
teftimony to thefe events for many tiges to tome.* Bot^
after all, I am inclined to fiifpeft, though tfiefc'cAAs are
a{cribed to water-fpouts, that they were prodttced frtihs «!•
other caofe, it%. froni the Irruption of an imtnclkire tcollec-
tion of water, penned \ip in fome of the prodtgidofy tfcep
and very eztenlSve momfles. Which are tet few ift ihie^
fiightand paru of the pari& % and what gives dits ^^ 4em«
blance of probability is, that in ixany of thefe 'morlfles, or
jKntv, as they are here called, when the furface is bored, tbe
water ifTues out like, a torrent with great force.
Here I fliould not omit a teal w^ter-fpout, ih the firiA
'fenfe of the ward, that happeaed about '200 yekrs ago ofi
the loch of Cathel ; a whole femily refiding on a Very finall
ifland in the loch, excepting the youogeft child and his
Burfe, were deftroyed by it* This awful e^eifit W^ fo ikr
from being a Caufe of regret to the neighboiirhobd, tha^
they exceedingly rejoiced at it, as thereby they %eiie hap*
pily delivered from the terror and' rapine ^th which they
were perpetually annoyed and Varafled by that lawle&'ahd
plundering faniiiy ; for they lived on rapine and plunder^
and fortified themfelves on this fmall Ifland, to the nttet
defiance and vexation of the oppreflfed neighbourhood.
^ Tke mafiex of this family was by name Gaine SSaricaciii^
of Halktrk. «
i r. Gtvin Henderfon. TT&e ftxrri'nng'cfaild is pfogetilloir
of a certain branch of die Henderfons in this conntt^.
^minpetb. Birds mdigtuomf ^nd migrmwy. Gium^ ■■
The qoadmpeds tli Uiis pari&,^ both domeftic and wM,
harmlels and ravenous, are miich the fame as in other Htgk«
lainipatiflsesi and not itb num^rods. For the game, fbere
are Ibt^ deer and roe, aHb ott^eia, foxes, and ha^, in
great abnndance. About 60 yeaia'a^ no hares were to
be fieeo in this paiiffi or country ; now diey aic not pientior
asy where than here. ^
The birds ilhit «e native of indigenous 'are the fiune
^Ib "as in other wMthem Ifi^land ^MuiOieat and oot iois
nmneroiis. The inigratory birds are Uk *&nie siUb ; &di.
ia ihk fehSfer-f th^ fffiea plover or lapwing, the ^aaxl or
torn-crake, tiie woodcock, the cnckoo, th6&ow4bwK For-
nedy tflhe lap^ivfng vtfited thb ]>ari(h-in mfultitbdes; noir
we do not fee the hundredth ptfrt of What was wont to be
tctn of them ; and very fooh, as the tnfmber yearly: 4le-
creafest we will fee none at all. The fprlng feafts in Eng-
land wiH'foon deftroy that delicious bird we were wont tx>
retrand feed for didr table, "and deprive us of their vifits.
The birds for game are of various kinds, and feme kinds'
Verj numerous, the moorfewl, the blackeook, the taraat-
chaoi plovers of fcveral kinds, fiiipes, pigeons, parttidges.
It is only of late ye;its tl»t 'this 4aft bird was to be {een
liere% 'Wt have OKo fi^dris, ^M-geefe of diftrem kinds in
valt numbers, diicks ih great viurie^ aad numbers aMb| be-
lies Several odier birds too 'tedtons to taiention. On the
Whole I know not any place tlMlt eto -affottl better ganie
thiia this parilh'. ' ' .
Pofnhtiois, tit Ind^a/iji Oiiu^iqfignidfar it, C^C4-*Tbe
AomW of inhibitifits hasp 'rather iwttx&d daring my In-
cumbency»
•Ofi Statifiicai Account
cumbcQcyf ivhich is upwards of 23 years ago ; and I ha^w
reafoa. to believe, from the concurring report of all the vcrjr
old people with whom I have been talking on the fubjefi^
•as well as from other circumOaoces, that the pre&nt num-
.ber isat^leaft one fourth more than it was aboat 70 years
ago.
• Agriculture has made confidcxable prqgtefs during that
period, and in proportion to its progre&, a greater naoaber
of hands were needed to carry it. on. IndoAry and firoga*
Jitj kept pace with this progreis i as the inhabitants were
gradually enlightened, fo thcj w^re gradnallj awakeoed,
and. incited to afiioii; their neceffities and wants grew
greater .as they multiplied; this put their invention to tbe
r trial, and their wants and invention introdnoed feveral em-
ployments, and feveral fhifts for livii^ to which they were
• ftrangers before, and for which they did notcare ; for truly
'I believe that they knew no want, and felt no oecelEty for
•diligence and adivity before that period. Thefe circum-
ilances fiimiihedempJoyiDent, apd employment made room
for hands ; and numbers of hands that could live in idle-
ness before, but could not do fo now, were ready to embrabe
. and avail themfelvcsof it* Hei\ce a variety of implenauents
* and uteniils fpr hu(bimdry, ^c. which were very few and
.fimple before, were afterwards found necefiary; and of
courfe and by confequeace, arti(|s and tradefmen, w^o were
alio very, fcaroe before th^t period, to make them. Hence
-a finall farm^ that was wont to be worked t^ yery few
. binds, cannot now be wrought to any putpofe, without
fome additional hands \ for the rent being formerly very
low, and o|.her neceflaries eafy to be got, very little
pains was neceflary to live and keep credit by that f:irm-
But now the cafe being altered, there is a neceffity for rai-
fiag better crops, and foriuore labour and indoftzy, before
the &mily can be fupported# credit kept, >and:aU neceffiisy
demands
of Halkirk. 23
demands anfwered. Hence, feveral fpots that have been
negteded and defpifed before, as there was no u£e for them,
are now fufficient to employ feveral hands, and to main-
tain feyeral fiimilies. Hence, finally, people are called
forth mnch earlier into life, and employed in bufinefs, who'
before that period would be only as playful children at the
firefide, and quite ufelels to themfelves and others.
Thus the number of perfons being increafed, and bufi'
■eft and wants having enlarged their narrow fphere, and
taken a wider compais, traiEck and commerce, arts and
manufiiAures ftarted into being. They now begin to creep
and crawl -, and I hope they will foon be able to throw
away theij leading-firings, and to make more flately mo*
tions, and more mafculine exertions.
Another circumftance, that contributed coniiderably to
the increafe of population, fhould nor here be omitted. Be-
fore the period above mentioned, people in general did
not enter fo early into the conjugal Rate. The Jlorgea^ or
impetus of nature, was fuperfeded by motives of intereft
and conVeniency. But now, vic€ verfa^ thefe prudential
copfiderations are facrificed to the impulfe of nature, which
is allowed its full fcope ; and very young people ftretch
and extend their necks for the matrimonial noofe, before
they look about them, or make any provifion for that llate.
Often times, indeed, motives orinterclt, and the impulfe
of nature, combine with united force, and precipitatp them
into that ftate at a very early period of life. Whether this
praftice is favourable to the improvement of the fpecies, I
much fufpeA ; but that it is very much fo to population I
have every reafon to believe*
It is true, indeed, that population has of late years re-
ceivcd no fmall check from the junftion' of farms, from
emigration, and from the vaft numbers that have gone to
(lie army during this and the former war. But yet it is on
.3 the
■-?
24 Statlftical Account
iSb^ increaftt though t^ fo much fo as it woald have bee«
without thefe checks.
Having thps en^eayoured tp account for the increafe of
population in the period abov^ mcntionedi I now prpqeed
to }a^ down the prefent ilate of it*
State of Population^ bow divided^ (/^.—According to the
baft inquiry and cakulation I coi^d make, the prefent Hate
'q{ peculation is as follows, (from which it will appear, that^
the increafe, fince Dr Webftex drew up his account of it ia
I755i his date being then 3075 fouls, is 105) ; — families
J30 ', fouls 3180 1 of thefe fods x6jo are n^ales, 1530 fe-
males. Below five years of a^e, 443 ; betweea &ve and
ten years, 509 ; between ten and twenty years, 685 ; be-
tween twenty and fifty, 986 > between fifty and feventy»
483; between feventy and eighty/ 55 ^ between eighty
^nd ninety years, 20. Of this number, there are 380 ba-
chelors; maidens, 40b *, widowers, 40 j widows, 89 } men-
jEbrvants, 308 ; women- fervants, 321; tradefmen, liich as
tailors^ weavers, ilvoe or brogue makers, fmiths, wrigbts,
coopers, cowatu *, 73. There is only one dyer, and two
gardeners, and three merchants. The number of day-la-
bourers cannot be afcertained. There are indeed feyeral
who work for daily hire, fometimes in the year ', but they
are not many who are ilated ones, or make day-Iabopr
their bufinels by which they fupport themfelves and fitmi*
lies. I would conjecture the number of thofe who live by
day-labour to be about 50 -, and of thofe who make it only
a bye-job, or a bufinels now and then as they are difpofed,
or find it nectfTary, to be about thrice that number. Be-
fides the above, there is a great number of fpinners for the
linen-manufa^ures in Aberdeen and Edinburgh. ThU
number is as difficult to alcertain as the former, and for the
fam^
« Cowans, gttfons who 1>uild dry (tone dikes or w&IU
tf Halkirk. 2$
iwe jneftfott ; I wofild fap^« the viht^t i^o I>e about 409.
All the iamUies above ftated, excepting thqfe of tradefmen,
daj-la^boorera, iic. are faixm^vt^ tenants, fubtenants, cottar
Birtist Morriages^ Burials. — ^The annual average of
births, n^arriages, burials^ cannpt be afceitained with aaj
tolerable accuracj. B7 examining the regifter, I fpoad
there were 3o baptifm^ and ^4 marriages recorded from
Janiiarj 1789 to January 1790 -, but I iDi^ch fufped their
number ought to have bipen more; and I have re;^fon for
this fufpicion, bec^iiie fome few may be baptifed, and fbme
&w manned bj the nii^onar j an this pariib» and the neigh«
bomiag cjergymes, whofe names might have been ne«
glefied to he reported to the (efliou-clerl^. Thv^ circum«
jBaac4(, togetb^ with fipme who die uobaptifed, and who
ace n9t th^erefore reported and recorded, may well account
ton this miflake. Indeed, thefe numbers of b^ptifms and
marrii^gps /e«cc^d what they were in 4ie (ame fpace of
tio^e for feveral years before, accprding to the regiften
From die^ very probabjie cirpi^fiances, I v^j (^f^lyjCOQ-
dude the annual average of births for a fe,w years p^ to
be ji}>oojC 85, 9^ )tjbat of aiarriages about 28. T^^ number
of 4ea^ or burials I found on the regjUler in (h^ P^/ic^
above mentioned to be 24, whioh i^ .by noTneaos ^tisfac-
(ory, and puts it en^rely put of my power .to filcertain the
pitciie average, jeijpecially when it is coa^dcred, that i^
order to elude payment of the jta^, xxi^mbers ufe all the ihifta
they cap ; befides, there are ^o leis tt\^n 10 buri^al places
in the parifii, which ^ves ^mbexs an ample ^portuqi^
to eicape froqi both xegifier ^d f^uu
Mi/ciffaniops Oifirvationsn-^Mmj of the propofed fta-
tifijcal queries have no relatipn to Uiis parilh ia its prefefit
VoL.XIX« D ftate»
26 Statijiical Aecoutti
ftate. Many of thofe that haTe, were alreadj coofideredT
and anticipated in whole or in part, as they occurred occi^
fionally in treating of other articles. Therefore all that i»
neoeflarj is to give »(hort aeeoant of ibciv parttcabfa- aa.
have not been anticipated, and may apply to this pariih.
Well, then, we have no manufaclnres, no artifls, and hot
few mechanics. AH the inhabitants are of the Efiabliihed
Charch,.yet many attempts have been made to introdoce Se*
ceffion among them, lliey are, on the whole, moderate and
rational in their religions principles, ponftiial in their attend*
ance on divine ordinances, and weH di^oled so encourage
and fupport the means of rcKgions infim^on among them.
None, for many years paft, have died of fiunine or want :
nay, in the late fevere and nnfiivourable years, when the-
country was threatened with &mine, nothing like it was
f(Ben or heard in this parifli ; yet the efieds of thefe unhap-
py feafons are ftill felt, and will be felt for fome time tO"
come : So fatal a ftroke it then received, that finom it we
may date a kind of revolution in nunners and circnrnftaa*
oes* No murders have been conormitted &r many years
pafi ; yet lecret grudges and anxmofities fiiS' prevail, and
often times break out into quarrels and broib, at markets
and meetings, which wear a dreadful appearance, and fome*
times are attended with di&greeable confequences ; but a
great deal of this b to be imputed to the too free nfe of
fpiritous liquors on thefe oocafions, which inlhunes- their
blood, and exafperates their fpirits. As to child-murder,
in particular, it is fcarcely known in this parilh, and* long
may it be fo. I never heard of any initonce of fuicide bat
one, which happened about x8 years ago,, and it is to be
hoped will not happen fo foon again ; yet I am ibrry to
£Eiy, that of late years there were in the country two or
three indances of that detefiable and melancholy pra&ice.
I have no doubt but many leave tfai9 parilh and countxy
cithea
^Halkirk. 2f
either for vmnt of employment, or for the fake of getdng
better. But I am perfiiaded» that nombeis leave it wan*
tooly, VfhOf if they were difpofed to eaercife fobriety and
iadofiry, as they mnft do abroad, might find m competency
of bread and employment at home. It is, howeva*, very
mnch to be regretted, to- What cau£e foe ver it may be owing,
that a f^rit of emigration prevails too much of late years ;
fiir the coniiBqaences of it are, year after year, more and
mora fevevely felt by the country at large, but mose efpe-
da&y by the &rmers and tenants. That nfeful and necef-
ftry dafi of people^ had fearcely thefe two laft years, the
complement of iSnvants they would need, becanfe they ei-
ther conld not get them for any wages, or if they ooald,
jret tbeir dem«id was too high, and perhaps their work fo
little^ that they were not able to engage them; I deny
not, but fervants ought to have all due encouragement
when they de&rve it ; neither do I think, that in this coun-
try they have more than they would need : but I aflirm,
that in the pirelent ftate df things, the farmer b not able to
aftrd it and keep credit. The demands of the landlord,
which ara not lefleniag, the expence of living, which is a
thifd more at leaft ihan it was 20 years ago, together with
the other espenoes Ihat attend the working of hb farm,
which asMdfo daily growing more, all thefe are of them-
iielvcs too heavy for all the produce of the farm, and his
ciber ihifia to aofwer them, though he had no other bur-
den. An thefe things confidered, I believe in my heart,
that tho farmer is the greateft dupe and flave in the coun-
try ; and' while he is fo, the country cannot thrive, efpe-
dally fince the whole traffick and credit of it is yet found-
ed onao other bottom but the produce of the field. Let
all conoemed bo wife and oonfider this.
Yet, after all, I think it very prattcable to improve
fmD9p to make the qicamlhncce of the fataicr comfortalde.
%% StaHJlkal Jctount
to give all doe enii^ocingemeat to fervaats; and, ia a word,
to remove all thefe grievaiiccs, withoot any dtmtnatioo of
ients, or paffing from the value of cuftodis aod fervioei;
Thefe are things which the landlord tan&dmtif thovgti in-
deed faUelj, It great advantages, and will thefefoHs hy Ho
means dirpenfe with them. WeB then, to gntdfy hilh^ I
do not think that there is anj neoeffitj to. cede the vakie
|tf Cervices, Vc. or aqy advantage he derive at prefient
from the farmer $ all that is required is to pafr from* die
fervioe^, and fome other articles ih kind, and to tako ireal
vtiiie for theih by oomnmlation dr conterfion^ ThiSf if
flintters Were duly confidered, wiH be found nccribry}
and as it is neceflary, fo it ^ould be eafily aocompfifhed*
It may be compenfated in ihch a way, as will redound
inuch to the iputaal credit and advantage of both landlord
and tenant. If this were once eftftedi it Would be attended
with another important advantage, {t wodkl make the
tenants more frugal and indufbrieus, and improve their fen*
timents and n^orals ; apd what would greatly conttibnte to
this reformation, is the profpeA they would have of rei^
ing and enjoying the fruit of their own labouts, more efpe-
fually if they held their tacks on longeHeafes,whi^^wou1d
be alfo neceflary in effcAing fo defirabk a ohaoge. Where-
as their prefent ftate and droomftanees, hive a manifcft ten-
dency to depreis th^r fpirits, to check their ardour for di-
Itgence and induflry, to contraA the hearti to cherilh the
felfiih principle in all its meannefs, and of eoiirfe, *U noan-
lier of fraud, cunning and dtffimulation, which, I am forry
to fiiy, have made confiderable progrefs of kte years. There
are no fiated or Eoenfed taverns in the paflih bat one,
,|rhichfcarcely deferves the name; bnt there ate fevetal
families, who retail Whiflcy and ale occaimally. This
fprafiice prevails too mueh, and is attended with many ton-
Ift^ueiipes fai^rtfiil to the imereft and morals of the paopk;
and
9f Halkirk. 29
Mad it were to be vriihed dimt it had been fiipprefled. Be-
fideSf of late yean, fince diftillation prevailed fo muchi the
«fe of whiiky has almoft faperfeded that of ale, which about
fartjr ytOis ago was the ordinary drink, both in uveme
and private honfesy and not near ib hartfnl and inconve-*
at to the peopk. The heavy duty on malt^ contributed
m little to diis diiagreeable 6irotta»ftaD<se, by whidi
1 tUs beverage, fo ofeful a»d convenient to the coun-
oy pMple, vriien vftd in moderatioti, ia in danger, of being
at 1^ entirrfy in difisfei and no drink will be reUihed bat
valnt direflly iiltozitele* the btfain- and inflames the blood*
The uTifal kilo of a day'laboofev is almoft donbk what
it was nbodt Ao years ago* Thit i$ both natural and rea-*
fbliaUe, bccanft, at hal been already obferved, the expenco
0f living has greedy iaereaied in that period. It is various,
nocording to the various jobs in which they are employed.
The nverage here, per day, I wonld eftimate at 9 d. ; and
die (mm neoeftry to fopport a finnily, confifting of man,
wifit, add 4 children, /»r week, at 3 s» 6 d. Both the hire
aid the expenoe of living are yearly very much on. the in*
creaie* The fiurmer is the only man who will fu£br moft.
ky this progreft, if he will not have more advantages than
he has at prefent to keep pace , with it* We have rather
too many who are idly difpofed, and who will not work,
tmlefr compelled to it by the extremity of the laft necefr
fity ; for if they htq>pen to have what will enable them to
hold it out until night, or any profpeft of any other fliiit,
though at the expence of their more indnftrious neighbours,
to whom they are no (mall burden, tbey have no concern
Mboat their debts, or any provifiop for to-morrow. Though
eiMCb are a grievance to the codiitry, yet the Britilh army
is omch indebted to them i add, indeedi if this is a relief
to themfelves, it is no fmall one to their nrighb< urs, who
Hft glad to be free of foch idle and ufeleis drones. From
I this
30 Stati/fical AccwM
llixs caufe, and the vices to which it is tn inlet, ts well «s
£rom other canfes which are more neceflary and nnavoid*
able, it happens that we have a great number of poor. But
what b much to be regretted is, that a coofiderable part of
thb number confifis of tenants who have been reduced,
cither by the late unfiivourable fieafons, or by the infuS**
eiencj of their farms, and other (hifts, wiA aK their iai*
chiftry and firugalitj, to provide for the evil day. The
slumbe^at prefent on the roll is 150 ; but it ought to have
been near double that nunober, were all tfaofe who are im
indigent circumftancea to be admitted* So very low are
the feffion-funds, that none can be admitted on the rofl but
tiie greateft objefls, or foch as are extremely indigent ; and
even, in that cafe, they are not in th6 fmalleft degree ade-
quate to that number ) for the only fources of our funds
are the Sabbath coUeftious, and the fines arifing from de-
linquencies. The former is very trifling, more elpedaHy
becaufe our men of mooey are not thofe who moft fre*
qnently come to church. The latter, though more frequent
than could be wiflied, yet it turns out to no great aoeouutt
becaufe, though they are very fubjeft to dMfe ddtnqueocies^
they are yet on the whole very poor in purfe. They are
able to fin, but ncft able, had they been willing, to pay.
It is a pity that the civil arm does not interpofe its autho*
rity, and the gentry their influence and example, as could
be wiihed, to ftrengthen the hands of the clergy in the fup-
preflion of tbefe deftruftive praAices. But to return to the
poor : At the annual diftribution of the funds, the (hare of
€ach individual poor on the roll, is no more, at an average,
than 2 8. af the utmoft. Thb, and the infufficiency of the
pariik to fupply their needs, is one great caufe why num«
bers of them wander about, begging that charity which they
cannot get at home.
6f Halkirk. yi
It has been already obfierved, that the foil and clfanate cf
this pariih and couDtry, do not feem favourable ta the pro-
doftton of trees. Yet, I believe^ if proper methods had
been nfed, und due attention given to that neceflary article^
fiime kinda of timber ought thrive pretty well. But there
are oither kinds, whichr in my opinion, will frnflrate every
attempt to rear them* Of this kind is the fir, as was alfo
i^ecified before. Yet it is certain that there was great
abundance of that timber once in this pariih* This mani-
fefily appears from the remains of it that are fliU to be leea
is feveral parts of the parifli, and indeed of the whole
country. From this circumftance it woaid be 'Saturallj
eoocfaided^ that where that timber grew fo welli and fo
flately of oM, without the aid of care or art,, it would fbrely
grow diere now, with the conjoined afliftance of both an
and nature. This is a paradox I will not pretend to folvct
though yet I am -^trj much inclined to think, that it is to
be attributed to fome change or revolutioo! that has taken
phoetn the climate, and confe^ently in the £ail, firom^
their mutual infiuence on one another. To corroborate
this opinion I would remark, that about 23 years ago, there
were twa or three fmall woods of birch and mountain aib^
tf r. in n very blooming and vigorous ftate, in this and a
Mghbonring parift, which are now almoft wholly decayed
and withered root and branch. This reverie is, no doubr,
in a great meafore to be afcribed to the depredations of the
country people, who cannot withhold their hands from
gvowing tifliber, wherever their eyes behold it. But from
this reverie, in fo ibort a time, it Seems to be principally
oocafioned by the late unfavourable feafons, which have
proven as noocious tO' them as to other vegetables, and more
io, becanie, as was before obferved, they are not raifed out
cf the earth, as other vegetables are, at the end of. the fea«
fau Doet not this civcumfliAGe render il at liaft probable
that
3a StatyUcai Jccaunt
tbtt dieir utter decaj,.aiid not tttemptkag to grow fiooe, is
omng to foch • xevdatioa of cUmate and fbtl as took plaoe
at that period ? And wbat OMkos for this fiili further, ami
adds to the probability of it^ is asoAcr ciraunfiance, vitf^
Che lieaioDs are colder, the earth more wet, the crops not
sear £b good, fome aoiauh, Ibcb as the wild bee, d^ fwal-
low, icarcdj to be icea fince that fatal period i and sett
only iii^ fome vegetables that anbvered very well bcfbre,
do not grow now at all vn$h the greaieft attention and i^
I wQidd aUb fofther veaaark, as it now opcnis to me, and
aipplics to the prefisnt pnrpofe* that when there is a current
cf air irom the iea« aoconfianied with mift and fog, it en-
velopes all the vegetable Croatian as £u: as it advances with
m flimj, inline kind of 4ew« which is often from one end
of the conntiy to the other i £ar I believe there is no place
in this country, that is above 9 miles in a ftwght line from
the fiea, which furrouods it dofe on every quarter but the
£• and S. W. This dew, when appjyied to the tongue and
pahte, has a very faltiih reliAi; fo I have experienced once
in tile centre of the country; na]r» at that time, and in that
fhce, I fdt the fieent cf cotien ware, as feofibly almoft as
if I had been on tlie ihore at that time. This oircumftaaoe
anuft iisrely have a confideraUe influence on traasy and the
other prodoce of tbc kii^ and this is the cauft of my ma^
kbg this lemark. But before I clofe thefe ob^vations »
I would fiirther remark, that our winters are in proportion
tttoce temperate than the other feabns of the year* Whe-
ther this has been the cafe of cid I cannot by.
Pl9Hgh$, Carts f Uor/es, Oxen for tie F^«i.-^The plough
oied in this pariib, and indeed in all the country, not very
many years ago, was of very fimple ccmftrufiiafi, Very
cheap, very eafily and Ipendily madej it had only nne
ftilt;
cf Halkirk. 33
tttrby this it wtt mraaged and oondaded by the plough^
man, with his right hand ooly, and dofe at his right thigh (
it had fcofcdy a fide board; thooghi fot thefe reafons, it
was very aneafy for the ploaghman, yet it was very light
aad^afy for ihe oattk. It ploughed very weU, and tMf^
as I dun infermed^ broke the earth as it tamed it, ferved
die pwpofe nf a 'firft harrowing as it went along, and good
traps wereTaifed after it. For fonae time paft there is none
of them to be feen $ for thofe now ufed are mnch the fame
witih diofe ofed in ^ ibuth of Scotland. Thefe are, in*
detdt mofe eafy for the ploughman, yet not fo for the cat-
tle, becatife diey are heavier, and plough deeper, l£c.
The long yoke, as we (all it, or two and two a-breail, be-
fore one anodier, is not ufed bat by very few, and that oc«
cafiooally. The old mode of four a-breaft, or ihort yoke,
as we call it, is ftill the fafliion. This, however, thou^
not fo eafy and fafe for the driver, who goes retrograde in
die forrow, with two on each fide of him, is, I believe,
more advantageous for the cattle than the other. For, in
draoghia of every kind, it is very much in favour of the
drawing power to be near the centre of motion. This is
mtaifefily the cafe in the fliort yoke, all the cattle being
ecpally near the plough, and having confequently an equal
fliarc of the draught. The only difadvantage arifing from
it, befides the danger to which the driver is ezpofed, is,
that two of the cattle draw on the tilled ground, and there-
by trample it, which is both uneafy to them, and hurtful
to the ground ; but thefe are nothing when compared to
the other advantages.
It is only of late years alfo that carts' began to be ufed.
Now the great advantage of them is feen and felt, and
the ufo of them is daily becoming more and' more general.
They are increafing in number eVcry year, efpecially as
we have the profpeft of good roads. Since carts be-
VoL. XIX. E came
34 Staiiftkal.Jcfoutti
otme lb geoei^ I am petfiuded, that q|i« ball of ibt t«im-
ble, of the timey and of the ezpenpe, is fayed, whkh waa
formerly bellowed oo the article of carriage alone*
Further, the cattle nCed not man j years ago &r the pur-
pofes of the farm, and carriages of all kbds* were Cor the
moft p^n horfes. This is flill much the pradice ^ yet oQEca
are, of late years, more and more uied for tbefe p«ipo(c^
efpecially finae horfes are become fo exprttfive in ibe rar-
ing, and fo dear in the purchafe.
The prtffent fiate of thefe articles is as foUows :«-rPlaug|ii»
3x2 i carts of diiFerent fi^es, 2ao; horfes, 580; of thb
number there are 30 large, or of the Galloway fiae ; tlir
reft are of different fi^es, but in general rather foal) : oxen,
294 ) of thefe there are 40 of pretty )arge ii^ all |he reft
ffi^all, or of ^feripr files.
f^tQduce offhe Parijb^ Animal atfd Vegefakk^^rrAMrndX
produce ^ horfes, black cattle, iheep, goat, fwioe, geeie.
Moft of the horfes bred here are of the fmall garron kindt
and many of tl^em fold at a or 3 years old. Qut moft qf
thofe employed in work, fjf. are pnrchafed at a dear rate
fron^ other places, efpecially from the Orkneys, where oqt
^oung horfes are boi^ht for the purpofes of rearing and
fale. lience it is, that the ycry fame hor^ which werp
(old by us at very low priceS| are fometimes, 2 qr 3 yea^
afterwards, rebought by the fame perfons, who fold them
before, at three times the original price, Tl^is is furely a
mode of traffick verj unfrugal^ and mug)^ againft the intc-
^ reft of the country.
£laci ^a///(r.— There is a great number pf thefe rehired
in this parish, being well calculated for it^ as being fur-
niflied with good pafture, both lowland and highland. 3ut
yet I am perfuaded, that the number reared is near one-
third more tbap it ought to hav^ been, or the parifli c^
wcIJ
of Halkirk. 3S
iwn atiotaio. This is the caufe why oor cows do not
vfiiaUy yield fo much milk as might be expeded ; why
diat cattle are in general more poor, and of leis fize than
tbej might have been ; and confequently, why they fetch
tadtk low prices at markets. But what is their motive for
this uafrngal and miftaken plan ? Why, becaufe the com«
sncroe in that cattle is a principal and neceJTary article of
anedit; and confeqnently, they calculate their flock, ac*
GOtding to their number, and not according to their quality*
Befides, having no other way fo ready to maintain credit^
floid to anfwer Maniumas de^nands, they pinch their fami-
lies in the neceffary food arifing from thefe animals, from
an overweening ezpeftation, and the miftaken idea, that if
diey have plenty of calves, they will be able to anfwer thefe
demands, which hang a mighty terror over their heads
every year. Thns it happens, that they themfelves, and
their cattk, are halfflarved, and their ill^otuided ezpec*
tations often times frnftrated. Whereas, had they adopted
another plan, and kept an adequate number of cattle only,
their fandlies would be better ibpported, their cattle better
in quality and value, and the demands of the landlord
more readily anfwered.
j£#r^.— By appearance there are excellent ibeep-paftares
in this pariih, efpecially in the Highlands^; but in moft
parts they do not thrive to any latisft^on. This appears
both from the fmallnefs of the number they generally bave^
and the number of lambs that are yearly bought from othet
countries, for a continual fnpply of their own, which never
increaies, notwithftanding that annual recruit, but often
growa leis and le&. This failure may be attributed to fcr
veralcaufes; to the wetnefs and fwampioefs of the foil; to
their being fed promifcuooily with other cattle i tp their
being, for the moft part, houfed every night, and often
with othet cattie ; to the wgnt of due IkiU and care in ma*
36 Siati/Ucal AceowU
nagingthem ; and, fiaaOyf 10 didr beilig atfeended tD ^bIj
BOW and than m a bye job ; all wkkfa cuatmflanoes «ac
verj hurtful, and ininoical to that nfeftal, dalkate^ sod pr^^
carious aaimal. Tet I am perfoaded, that good ikeep^Nfimaa
mi^t be eftabliflird, at leaft in (bme para of the pacifliy
efpecially in the Highlands. They are all of a miaDod €li«>
minntive kind, but Terj prolific, and exoellent eatings I
cinnot fay that their wool n either good, or plenty of itt
Iqnd, which is the cade that we (are principally fiqpplied
with this neceflary article from other places.
Goor.—- This animal is not fo abundant in this parifli an k
might have been } foe though we have ndt nuny rocka or
places produ&ive of thole weeds and herbs, in which thej
moft delight, yet I am informed by thole who keep them,
that they thrive very welL
. 5marv~Thefeaie very fe*i^ late. To what canfe thia
may be owing, I know not; but about at years ago thia
end of the parifli fwarmed with them, and they geaeiall j
fold welL They are commonly of a very fmali fise, but
£ur better eating, and firmer meat, than a larger kind, and
by far more eafily reared. There are ibme of a large fiao,
but they are very few.
G^w— A confiderable number of diis bird waaformerly
reared in this parilb. Now they are but very few in com-
parifon, which is much to be wondered at, beoanfe they
^ould fetch now more .than double the price they gave 30
years ^ago.
' The pre&nt fiate of thefe articles, • according to the beft
of my information, is as follows :
Number of horfes, young and old, including thofe working
-• the fiirms, Wr. ...
165a
0^ black cattle, hicluding the work oxen,
49*3
Ofibeep,
2890
Of goats, ^ . .• . • - • •
- 130
]Ofli#ine,
190
3
VegitiM
cfUamrh 37.
FigtiiM$ PpoJaa^'^Tht greats and indeed almoft! the
eolj vegetable produce, are bear and oats. There are fo^
in contimial altemeta rotadoa, without the intefventitn of
iny other crop. Hub prafiice muft: furely be unfiivoiir-
able to the fieid» the erop^ the qnalirf of the grain, and e»-
poCe the &nner to nMNre trottble and ezpenoe, for reafona
well iuiown* No great attempts* have jet been made to
raife peafe and green crops^ fnch as turnips, lit. Yet I
have reafon to think, from the good fooceis that attended
the ftw trials which have been made, that they would
praTper welL It is, indeed, graat matter of inrpriie, that^
in a parifk where the fnpport and credit^ of the people ai«*
moft entirely depends on their cow and their grain^ they
Iboiild deny themfeives this great advantage* For, befidea
the benefits that woiild be derived firom thefe crops ta
themfelves and their cattle, they would moreover enable
diem to keep a greater number of cattle, which they would
like well, and occafion that rotationof crops fo much wanted
for the benefit of the field, and its pcxnlnce. Want of inelo*
fiifes and winter-herding are, as has been already obfetvedl
two great canfes why the people do not avail themfelves of j
this great advantage. Befides, being unaccountably averft to
any thing that is ftrange or novel in this way, they cannot
be perfuaded to truft their credit and their profpe£b to fuch
crops. Great quantities of potatoes are indeed of late years
raifcd in this parifli, from which they derive very confi-^
dcrable advantages, efpecially as they contribute- much to
make the Hving cheaper.
Oaii. — ^The oats raifed generally h of two kinds, black and
grey, of a fmall body, very prolific, but not produfti ve of a^y
gieat proportion of meal. In fome parts of the parifli, in good
yean, the proportion is more than 9 ftones of' meal obi
of it boHs nndried grain ; in other parts, not Above 6 fibnes
wtof the fame meafure of grain. Of late years; ether
kinds
38 Stati/Hcat JtiCQUttt
Unds of black oats are raiiedy and a confidefidite qmafity
of white kinds. T^, though thefe jield more meal| they
are found not to be well calculated fiE>r this icil» nor £b pro-
fitable. However, by the bje, I know not but this maj
be as much owing to miftaken notioosb t&d a predilefiioa
in favour of old ufiiges, as to any other caoie«
JBior.— The bear, tat the ihoft part« is in fome degree in*
&rior in quality to that of more fonthem counties : Yet^
in good years* and in the mod fertile fpots of the parifli« it
weighs between 17 and 18 ftones^ boU. In any year it
i^ reckoned preferable to any that grows almoft in this
county. The returns of it, in growth, are various, being
4f 5f ^f 7* ^^ 8 at the ntmoft. Yet, effimated at an ave*
rage, the whole crop, bear and oats, does not much exceed
4 returns* But, I believe, that with more pains and in-
duftry, and proper encouragement and e^nmple to tnfnfe
that fpirit into the people, the crop might be confiderafady
meliorated ; however, in good years, the produce is con-
fiderably more than is neceflary for the fopport of die
pariAi in its. pre&nt ftate. The whole amonnt in bear and
oat meal, at an average, according to the beft of my enquiry
and calculation, is about 15,500 bolls, the boU of mttl at
8t ftones.
PriciS of ViRual^ and Uhtr Ntceffiaries o/'Xj^.— The ave-
rage price of viftoal, I mean of bear and med, for we have
no other, is, for fome years paft, 133. 4d. /^boU; of
good beef, Hd.^ lb. ; of mutton and pork, when goody
the fame} of geeie, £ald at Martinmas, z s. 4 A. per goofe ;
of hens, 6d. each \ of eggs, a d. per dozen ; of iheep hogfs
or wedders, 7 s. per hog \ of fwine, Z2 s. each. There are
fome of them that fell coniiderably below, and fome confi-
derably above that price, according to their quality and
£ze , of an ordinary cow or ox, for flaughter, and in flefli,
L. 2,
qf. Halkirk. 39
L.^ to t. ; fome fell at Ids* and Cmm at more, accordisg
tofize; of malt, 148.^ boU^of whilky, nnmu^td, %%.
6d.p€rfvat\ mixed, is. jd.
Commerce and Trafici^^Thc principal fubjefis of com-
merce in this pariflii as already obferved, are the articles
joft now mentioned. As to horfes, very few of them could
be Spared fin- fide, if thofe who rear them had patience to
keep them nntil they would be fit for work, &c. There^
£ore they fell them at two years old, as mentioned above,
at low prices, and buy others, fit for work, at very high
rates ; fo that there is no gain, bat rather great lois by this
branch of commerce. As to black cattle, I believe, thaty
ttmmunibus anmSf about 1000 of them are fold between the
butcher and the droven As to viAual, I believe they can
eapoit, at an average, in good years, about x8oo boUs, and
fupport themfelves ; bat this export, as I am informed, is
' not fo mnch as it was in former years. The decline in
craps, the increafe of people notwitfaftanding the^ improve-
ments made of late years, and the bear confumed by whiiky
anddiftiIlatioa,'may well account for this circumftance.
As to whiiky, 1 believe 2-3ds of it is confumed in the
coontfy, a great part of thefe a-3ds in this fame pariih, and
confeqiiently, that fcarcely x-jd of that liquor b exported.
Net many years ago, dier6 were no left than 13 or 14 fmall
difiiUeries in this parifh, and on the near confines of 'it}
at piefent, fince the late aft, there are only 4, which I think
is enough, confidering all the good that is reaped from
diem.
Rmt oftbi PariJh.^Tht valned rent is L.3314 : 7 : 8
BcoCcb, I fnppofe, at the converfion of L. 4 Scotch per hoSL
The real rent, including other advantages, bot ezdnfive of
gcmflams,
SuaifBeal Atcount
ftrvioM, at ^ ccmrerfion of to s* pn-
TUXU »y I aoi' perfiiaatdt L. aaoo Steriifeg good.
Hiritars and Profrietors^'^Tht heritors and proprietors
ace not fo laany l^tbcy- were a few yeats ago. The nun-
lcr» at prefciitf is 6. Sir John Sinclair of Ulbfler it abe
pmcipa^'being praprietor of .much more than oae half of the
fHiidbf ao4 iiipemr of a confidomUe fart of it befides bis
f property. Heiaaifo patnMotoCthe panAk
Etdffiqfiical StaU.^^Tbt j^rtkut iocimbeiit is Mr John
Caraergn^ who was admitted ia Sep^^mb^^ X7^9- ^^
YBafried aoth December 1781 -, is a widower frpaii Jamiaajr
5* 17S4; has one daughter, aa only child, bom 5ih I>e-
cefuber 1783. ^b iDSOiediate predeceflors were Mr Wil-
']iam Abernecfay, Mr William Cummi^g^ Mr John l^uaro^
who vras the firil Pre(byterian Minifter, Mr John Suther-
landt Mr James Nicolfon. ,The ftipend, in Mr Cununiag's
time^ was fcarcely, at the then viSual-converiioii, L. 35
Sterling.- It was augmented in Mr Munro'a time to about
^SO Sterling, at the then coaveriion. He had only a
dialdexa of viAual in his ftipend ^ yet fmall as was this ili-
pend^ he lived very comfortably, and made a fuitable pro-
mSosk for his family, which was numerous. His cUeft ion
was the late Sir George Munro of Pointsfield. His two
imnkediate predeceflbrs, who had much fmalkr ftipeads,
and families to iupport and provide for, did the iame alio*
JSo gxeaa was the value of mo^ey, and fo many were the
advantages of thofe days befides what they are now. The
prc&nt ftipend, which W8|s augmented nth December 1776,
.is 2 ehtalders of meal and a chalders of bear, L. 600 Scotch,
.saii*L.30 Scotch for cominonion^elements.
.Hie manfe and church, during the pre£ent incon^ncy,
^e always been in a bad ftate of repair, and extremely
inconvenient
•/ Haikirh 4i
bconredlent, tboflgh repaired four times,- and at omfider* ^
ftBle cxpence during that period, via. 23 years. The laft
of thefe repairs is going on juft how, at iiit efti^atcd font
of L. 154 Sterling ) and as foon as tiie undertaker ^uts them
tS his hands, the j will call for another itnuiediate repair^
whether the miniiler calb for it or not It is t6 be regretted^
that heritors, from a miffaken notion of faving their purtes^
ihould fo unaccountably injure their own intereft, and in-
commode the minifter^ when both might ^ave bisen avoided •
with little ezpence. *
The glebe is, oil the whole, very good lapd^ biit oonfi-
derably Ihort of the minifnum. It only fows 3 bolls bear^
fuppofing all of i; to be fown with that grain, and will not
graze one cow. There is Feafon to believe that it was lar-
ger, and that it was curtailed by the encroachments or de»
predatioos of the conterminous tenants in ume of vacancies,
and never yet enquired into. This is the more credible^
from the report of a very old member of this prefbytery^
dead feveral years ago, who informed the prefent incum-
bent that this was the cafe, for that he faw the decreet ox
defignation by Bilfaop John. Forbes, of this diocefe, in^thtf
cnflodj of Mr Munro above mentioned^
Mifflon end Miffion-boufe^ S/r.—Befides the church,- thcrd
is a meeting or minion-houfe, in the Highlands of the p»«
rifli, at the diftance of 9 miles from the church, where thef .
minifter of the pariih was wont to preach every 4th Sab«
bath as a volunury deed, if not prevented by bad weather,
or fpeats in the waters, which are too frequeAil, efpecially
b winter. The houCe is pretty large, was built, and ia .
flill fupported by the inhabitants of that dUlri6l of the pa«
tifh, for their own and the. minifter's accommodation^ a^
ytrj confiderable expencc for them. Of late years^ tliey
have a miiBonary fupported at their own expence idfo. If
Vol.. XIX. y k
4% Statifticdl jfceouttt
*"'ls true, indeed, that the Committee of the Rojal Bbuiif>f
fometimes granted a little for their relief ; and the fiuDQ is
continued juft now, but the further continuance of it is on*-
certain and precarious. The Societj for Propagating Chri-
ilian Knowledge, fince the late increaJle of their funds, have
been often folicited and importuned to extend the benefit
of their inilitution to that remote comer, that (lands fo much
iii need of it, and fo well deferves it, bjr the exertions madc
by the people, beyond their abilities, to fupport the means
of inftru£tion among them. But all hitherto has been to no-
purpofcr Yet there are miffions eflabllihed^by the (aid So-
ciety in other places, which do not fo much need them.
However, it is flill hoped, that this defirable objed will be
obtained, as foon as the Honourable Society will have a^
proper view of the utility and neoelfityof it. Here, it
ihould be obferved, that an excellent dwelling-houfe was^
very lately built by fubfcription, in order to encourage the
idiffionary, and to aflift the people, and with the profpeA
that a perpetual miflion was to be eftabliihed there \ .
5ci(oo/r.— There are two fcbools in the pari(h, a parochial
and a Society one. As to the former, it is always throng
of fcbolars, and is taught by an excellent mafter ; but the
ifflallne£i of the falary, which b but a trifle more than L. 6,
and the want of proper accommodations for teaching, are
snighty hinderances and difcouragemcnts. Thele grie-
vances were reprefented, laft year, to Sir John Sinclair, who-
immediately gave powers to the minifter to get the accom*
modations of a fchooLhoufe and de(ks as foon as po{fible,l&
the firft place, and that he would pay his quota of the ex*
pence on demand ; and this he would have done, but fome
of the heritors refufed to contribute their (hare, which
would be but very triflmg, and fo the matter ftands, which
O Since the above ww written, fo John SincUir hai proctlred a miffiofi
for the two parishes of Haliark and XiRtiieioD, ftooi tlie Sodetj,
4(f Halkirk. 43
is a pitj; for next to the boroughs, it is in the moft cen«
triesl and commodious place for a flourifliing fchool in the
whole county.
As to the other fchool, it is always full alfo, and am-
bulatory for the accommodation of thb extenfive and po«
poloos parifli ; yet two-thirds almoft of the parilh reap no
benefit from it, not only becaufe of their diftance from the
fiation, but alfo becaufe it is difficult of accels to maiiy, who
may be nearer hand, moft feafons of thj^ year. Tbefe cir«
cumfiances render another fchool of the fame kind necef-
liury in the Highlands, if it could be obtained. Applica-
tions are making for it, and it is hoped that they will be
attended with fiiccels ; for never have the Society applied
their funds to a more ufefiil and neceffary purpofe.
AntiqmiUsf Vc— There ar^ feveral veftiges of antiquity
in this parifli, fome of which are to be feen by the eye, and
fome to be heard of by the ear, from oral tradition. But
neither what is to be (een or heard, furnifli a key, whereby
the truth can be fo inveftigated as to afibrd any great in-
ftru&ion or amufement. The remains that are vifible
floake, indeed, awfiil and pleafant impreflions on the mind
of the beholder, and fogged to him a confufed, but majeftic
idea of what they once have been : yet they, at the fame
time, affeft him with pain, becaufe the eagemefi of his cu-
riofity cannot be gratified. The avenues that lead up to
the objeft of his ardent parfuit and defire are clofed on
every hand. No infcription, no emblem, no monument.
A veil of obfcurity intercepts his view, and eclipfes the
light. Ks cnriofity is at a ftand. It cannot puih on fur-
ther. What muft he do ; He retires full of what he has
feen, but lull alfo of regret and difappointment, becaufe ho
4id not fee more of what his nund fuggefb to him it has
«riglnally been. But he refi» not here. He ^as recourfe
f to
^ Statiflical Account
%q oral tradition, hoping to find ai^cefs bj that' quarter,
Alas \ tradition is too much the work of fancy. Like Ho*
jner's Iliaf), it paaj amuCe as a pleafant dreatDi but can give
biin as little authenticated information of the truth, as-tfutt
poem can give of ancient Troy, and the fiege of it, whi^h
I fappofe was as confufed a ftorj in that poet's time, as
fhat of thefe antiquities, and gave eqQal plaj and ficope to
the imagination. Where now will (he antiquarian turn
himfelf ? He betakes himfejf tp the hiilorical page. There
he maj find fpm^thing }ike tl|e obje^ of bis enquiry and
wi(b ; but it is too vagae afid general, too mpcb dothed
Vith the brilliant drapery of fancy ; and fo, if he be qot a
dupe to credulity, he inu(^ lUll remain difcontented and up-
iatisfied. Thb b a&ually my cafe. How then can I fatif-
fy others, when I canqpt get myfelf (atbfied ? However,
1 will attempt it, at all adventures, and do what 1 can.
The fertility and extent of tli^ corn-fields, the richnefs
and variety of the paftures in this parifh, both highland and
lowland, the traces of antiquity that flill remain } all thele
evidently ppint it out as hplding, from early d^te, a di-
flingui(hed ranl^ in this pountry, in regard cf people and
IBvenis, which would amply reward the memory of the hi*
fiorian, had they not efcaped |iis nptice. I myfelf, this mo-
ment, when I am ;|t a lofs for inforn^ation, could I but fiqd
a proper hi dorian on the fubjed. would have faid. Peace to
' his foul. But fince it is pot fo, what I &e and bear other-
fvife tempt me to grop and fearch in the dark, and I Ihall
be happy if any corre^ n^e with the. light of authenticity
and truth.
Ecclefiafiical AntiquitiiSf^^'ikxrL mj atteatiop, in tbe
Ijrft place. Among thefe, the religious houfe that . Wf^ft
jSpiual is the mod diftingui/bed. .This hoi^fe, it if ccftajp,
i{f a^ originally founded and endowed by a St Magnus of
O^eji
of Halkirk. 45
Orkney, and dedicated to that Ssunt, therefore called St
Magnus. Who be was, I have not jet been able to learo ;
butj from fever^ circumfUnceSy I have reafbn to belie ve,
that be was either a Dane or of Daoiih extradion i z^d
that be aflumed the name MagnaS| on his becoming fo emi-
nently difiinguiihed in the ^hurch. Whatever he .was, it
appears that he was a great and a good man, a perfonage
of great wealth and influence, of no lels piety and bene$« * '
cence, and highly beloved and revered, efpecially in tiofM
country and in the Orkneys, where he has done fo much good*
From this circumftance it is, that there are flill fo many
in thefe countries' called Magnus. Circnmftances alfo lead
to the belief, that he was one of the Knights Templars, fo
powerful and afl9uent in their day, and a capital one too,
and confequently, that the lands in the neighbourhood of
Spittal Hill, to a confiderable extent in this and the parifli
of Wacten, were the property of that fociety. What
makes thb the more credible is, that there is fcarcely a
pariih in Scotland where that fociety have' not had lands,
and eftabliihed religious houfes. Nay, fo much did their
influence and wealth accumulate, that it was their ruin at
laft. They were envied and. dreaded by both church and
laity, who coveted their wealth. Hence this order was ex«
^nguilhed very early in the 14th century, deprived of their
wealth, and a large {hare of it transferred to the order of
St John of Jeru&dem, who alfo were treated in the fame
manner, as loon as their affluence made them ripe for the
rapacious hand of covetoulheis. But to return from this
digreflion, which I could not well avoid.
Why this religious houfe was called Spittal, viz. Hofpi^
^1, 1 cannot learn *> neither can I find what kind of reli-
gious
• Some people insgine, fint Ifcofe religioot bnildings were cHlled
ppfpitab, or Spittals^ bccuie the| fonulM Ikclttr and btJpitaJiij to
pilgnaa
^6 Stat0icai Aaouni
jgiotts wer^ ttdmitted to it, or what were the particolar
rules and orders pbferved by them, or, finally, at what pe-
riod of time it wm fpunded, or when it was demolifliefl.
But, frpm the chahi^r of the original founder, for no doubt
there were largie dpnations m^e to it after hi°>t ^^^ ^^.^
charader, I Ctj, and from the name oCthe houfe, vi%. Spit*
tal, it is more thf n probable diat it was ereAed and en*
dowed principally for the maintenanoe and inftruAion of
jthe poor religious ; or, at leaft, that there was an apartment
' .for the rect;ptio^ of mendicants, who wer^ entertained <m
the funds of that houfe, as waa ufually the cale in thefe re-
ligious eftablifhments* Circumfiances alio render it probable,
that the houfe was ftripped and demoUIhed in the reign of
James VI. or perhaps Mary. That the number admitted to
it, and retained in it» was great, is very certain \ and it is no
jefs certain, that the revenues of it were very coofiderable
alio ; for, befides other circumftances too tedious to men-
tion, there is one, which feems to me to put this beyond
' all 4oubt, vi%. that the church was yery large and capa-
cious, being fome feet broader, and feven^l feet longer than
I the prefent pariih-church, which is among the largeft m
thefe northern comities ; as alfo, that th^re were feveral
houfes round it, which furely were th^e cells or habitations
of thefe religious, fome of which, as appears frpm their ve-
fijges, were lar^e alfo. Befides thefe, there were other
houfes of the fame nature, for tlie accommodation of the
fame eflablifliment, at a further diftance ; more particularly,
there was a very large one, at a place on a rliiijg ground %o
the weft of the church, called Auchips^as, that is, the
Field
*)fitgHml tnd mendicants.' Near'Spittlei as ft is now fometimei fpeft,
thece is a farm called Achachoal, or Acha ChoIrl« (that ift» th» field of
the mef ting of council, or mufter), where the people of Csithnels, io
(Bti9er timet, fregneatlj aflVn^M cogntfasr.
4if Falkirk. 47
Field of the Altar. From all which It appesrs, thae the
revalues of the houfey and the number of religious retuned
in it, were verj confiderable. There is a import prevalent,
in this countrj, that all the inhabits^nts of Caithne^ affem,«^
bled there periodicailj, as a place of rendezvous }^^(t ^^
nod elevated and centrical in the countj* 9XiA th^t the
church contained them alh This.ma^ fern^ * I^7R^^V^^i
a figure always attending vulgar repcvt, But^-in my opi-
nion, with a little qualification, it « not altogether irr^cpn-^
ctleable to truth. For, fuppo^e the kirk could not bold
tfcem all, yet it would contain many of tb^m, and ,th^ hour
fes and celk round it, I am perfuaded, wpijild bold the fur^f
plus; more efpecisi^lyf when it is copfidered, that the
people were then (^ led in number, and fhat ;th9J y^rq.r
only perfons above a certain age that muft .have aflembled -
there on thefepccalions. _,.^ •
The lands about that boufe were about 1^30. y^ean^.^g^ji^.
the pofleiBon of the Murrays of Pcnnyland in this cfoiintry^
which makes me fufpeft that they were derived to that
family from a Gilbert Murray, Biibop of Suthcrlai^d and
Caithncls» ^o made, in hb day, a capital figure in phnrch
and ilate, and who, it is ptobablc, got tbeff kwds cither by
purchafe, or by donation from the churci^ after the. e;|ptinc-'
tion of dut order and ih^ boufe. It' was aane^xed, \o the.
diocefe of Orkney, and is fiill on the Eij^ghe^r bo9kf.U-
a part of that dioQeiie. - t ^
The church of Skinnan was a large) coa^fe, mafiy. btiild*
bg, aa Indeed was that of St Magnus, dedicated tQ a St.
Thomas, therefore Called the church of Sc Tbom^. By
all acconnts it was in Mr Abemethv/s incumbency, the
only churqh in what we aow call the pariih'of Halkirk*
Here the laid Aberpediy performed the fui;£tions of bis^.
office, but his dwelling was at ilalkirk. ' Once, in a Sal^t^ ;
bath evening on his Tctum hooie from churchy he was ac»
. ^oBed
4S Statiftkal AfCQunt
coftcl by one Maban Rjaii, by name, a ruffian, \ivho lay
in wit for him at the river, below the caftic of Braal,
when 'le fo maltreated him by tumbling him off his horfe
into tK» river, and then by blows and fuffocation of water,
tfiat he w^ carried home as bruifed and fuffocated to death.
The viOain^t motive for this fiaivage treatment, was, as it is
faid, to be revea^^ed of the minifter for ioterpofing the au-
thority of his office, and the difcipline of church-Iaws, to
check him, in his career of wickcdnefi : fo ontrafiable and
wild were the people in th^ dajs.
" Not fiir from this church was another religious houfe,
ddled the Abbey. The remains tA it ihew, diat it has once
been a large building.' Why it was cUled the Abbey, who
was theibunder of it. What order of religioos inhabited it, and
when it was founded, and when demoliihed, 1 cannot find -,
but I am certain, from what it appears to have been, that
it was the receptacle of many devotees, and that the funds
to iiipport it could not be fmaU. Nigh this houfe are the
rettlains of a fine monumental ftone, that was erefied there as
tf* memorial of fbme interelling evjcnt; ' It'was 9 feet high
above ground. I cainnot fay nor find what the particular
event was. But that it was revered, and facredly preferved,
as' a diftinguiihing maik of fomething momentous, appears
from hence, that in jTohn Sinclair's time, late of Ulbller,*
proprietor of that land,' a fet of ruffians, broke it wantonly^
who immediately were purfued by the neighbours ; and on
their being overtaken, a fcuffle enfued, to which numbers
reforted, and was the occafion of bloodfhed. The faid John
Sinclair,' heritable Sheriff of the county, decerned the fa-
crilegious villains in a fine of a cow the piece, which were
ad^ed to the public funds. Soon afterwards the remains of
the nionument were ereded, and inclofed with a ftone dike
at bi9'6wn e:^nce, b^th of which are fince entirely demo-
"- * lifted.
of Halkirk. 49
fiflied; It is called by the people to this daj, St Thomas's
Chair,
Befides thefe, there were feveral chapels, or places of wor-
&ip, in other parts of the pariih* fome of which feem, from
what yet spears of them, to have been of fome note in thofe
days. One at Weftfield, called St Troflan ; one at Olgang-
beg, called St Peter; one at Deal ; one at Sibfter ; one at
Banniikirk, and feveral more. I can fay nothing about
them but one thing, vns. That the church had its own fhare
largely of this parifli, as indeed the biihop had of this dior
cefe, which made it one of the moft lucrative bifliopricks in
Scotland *•
CivU
* Before I dtfoiifs thii article^ I would clofe it with %. remark, and aa
aoccdate. Such was the fuperftitious regard the people paid, to tliefe
boufet about 80 years ago, that there was fcarcely any who was married,
or delivered or child, or was fncce&fol in any enterprifb, or refcued from
aoy danger, but embraced the firft opportunity^ after fuch events, uf re^
paiiing to one or other of thcfc facred hoafet» with a large gift or ofier*
ing to the tutelar faint of that particular hoafe. Thefe gifts were a great
Ihare of the tfnoluments of the clergy in the days of Popery ; and fo fond
were the people of paying them, in the time of reformation, when there
was 00 ghofUy pneil to leceive them, that they guzzled and gormandi-
sed the neat and drink-offering themfelves, all along drinking the Saint*!
health. Thus they went fober deTotees.to viiit the dead Saint, but re-
turned home perfed Bacchanalians and Epicureans.
Jbttcd^eti^So lightly were clergy and divine worfliip efteemed fome'
time after the Reformation, tb^tin Mr Cummiog's days, the laft £piico-
jpalian niAiller in this paxjih, there was no linger of Pfalms in church
but the Icturgac, as they called the preeentor, and one 'i ait*' gardener
in BraaL Thb Tail fung lb loud, and with foch a large open moatfa,
tfkat a young lellow, of the name of Iverach, was tempted to throw a
finaU round ftone into his fliouth« whereby his teeth were broke, and hif
finging ftopped at once, and he hhnfelf almoft choakcd. Iverach imme-
diately took tQ bis heels; the ffrvice was converted to laughter ; two ot
Taii'f
Vol. XIX. G
50 Statijiical Account
Civil Amiqmtiit.'^^tTt Braal dauns the firft place. It
is tnilj a beautiful aad princely place, aud may with gccat
propriety be called the Paradife of Caithneis. Indeed^ it
would make a figure in any northern county, were it duly
improved, for which it i» a moft excellent (ubjeft in this
corner of the world. Though very little improvements
have been made upon it, in comparifon of what it deicrves»
yet of old it was a capital feat of the Harolds Earls of
Caithneb. The fabric, which is called the Caftie or
Tower of Braal, ftands on an eminence, at a fmall diftance
from the river of Thurfo. It is completely fqoare, of a
▼cry large area, wonderfully thick in the walk, which axe
partly built with clay, partly with clay and mortar mixed,
and in feme parts with mortar altogether. The ftairs and
conveyances to the feveral ftories are through the heart of
the walls. Thefe ftories were all of them floored and
vaulted with ftones prodigioufly large, as are indeed moft
of the ftones of the whde fabric. A great part of it ftill
remains, is as plumb and firm as^ever, and feems, from its
firufture, to have been very high and (lately ; and what ib
ftrange, the higheft ftones feem to be larger than thofe be-
low*. It furely coft imraenfe labour to get fome of them
up to foch a height, efpecially in thofe days, when it is te
be fuppofed, they had no proper machinery for the purpofe.
The plummet and rule were furely well applied in the pro^
greis of the work, but there is not the leaft impreffion of
block or chiflel, which (hews the gceat antiquity of it. It
was manifeftly a place of ftrength, as well as of habitatioow
A
TBit*s foDs «Wed and oYttpook him, and the fcene was cloTcd with »
moft defperate fight. This Tait was the progenitor of the Taiu in this
country, and by his hand was planted a very large aih tree in Biaal, whicl^
fell feveral years ago, and there remains, as the fallen monarch of the
wood, «nd as a proof how his famil)si wonld thrive there* if taken oure^of.
if Halkirk. 51
A deep, large, well contrived ditch fecures it on the north;
and I have reafon to believe, that it was continued dowA
to the river, which fecures it on that quarter. It has the
appearance of being fortified aUb with other outworks, fudi
as walls, moats, lie. which have been all demoliflied, when
the gardens about it were firft planned or enlarged. It is
not known bj whom, or when it was built, though it is
the current report, that it was built and inhabited by the
Harolds, who came over here from Denmark, but more
immediately from Orkney, where they bore a princely
fway, ^ well as here. But very ancient as this fabric cer^-,
tamly is, there is the remains of another very near it, to
the fbath, that feems to excel it far in antiquity, and to
have been not inferior to it in ftrength. Nothing of it re-
niaiiis, but a huge unfhapely cairn of ftones, which yet in*
dicate it to have been once a very large and ftrong faftnefi.
I fuiped that below it are fubt^raneous vaults and com«
munications to other works, neceflary for defence and feco*
rity in thofe days of violence and confiant invafion.
But the beauty of the whole are the remains of a much
more modem building, which was extremely well begun,
but never finiflied. It (lands clofe to the bank of the river,
below the fiibrics above mentioned. The defign is cer«
tainly grand and magnificent, and worthy of its princely
fitc ; and had it been finiflied, it would, in all appearance,
have been one of the fineft, and moft (lately, and commo-
dioos edifices in the north, according to the ftyle of thob
times. The work was carried on a few feet above the
vaults, which were completely fini(hed, and are indica-
tions of the greatne(8, majefty, and elegance of what was
to (be above them. There, unluckily, the building was
flopped, and never was refumed or attempted after-
wards, though what was done already was a very great
temptation to it.
Though
59 Stati/Hcai Account
Though there was aboBdanoe of ftones read j at hand, ex-
cellently calculated for building on any plan, yet to fait
the grandeur and elegance of the defign, vaft nambcra of
large freeftone were brought from the fliore, at the diftanoe
of 8 miles. This carriage was attended with gct9% labour
and expence, and occafioned the death of feveral men and
borfes -, and this is very credible, becaufe at that tiino tbcro
were no roads ; and if there were, yet there were no carts
then in ufe, but the tenants behoved to carry them in loads
on the backs of horfes. In (hort, all things put together^
fpeedily efiefied a total mifcarriage -of the nndertakiiifv
and the faikire of funds, and left this piece of worH «s «
Sanding monument of the undertaker^ great fpirit, but of
his great folly alfo. It was begun by John Sinclair, one of
the Earls of Gaithneft, diftinguifhed by the mock appd-
lation of yobu tie IVaJlir^ but in what year is not knowp.
The gardens of Braal ihould not here be omitted. They
have the appearance of antiquity alfo. They are very
large, very plea&nt and beautifult divided according to thp
variety and tafte required in horticulture, efpectally in this
country, furrounded with trees, nvirferies, pjantatioos of
wood, all of them at prefent in a thriving date. Yctj
confiderable improvements have been, and ftill are made
upon it by the Ulbfter family, the proprietors, but &r ihoit
of what they might have been, and what fo good a 6ibje&
deferves. I have it from undoubted authority, that about
100 years ago thefe gardens produoed a great deal of friut«
though of late years that produce has been but trifling. Bq»
fore I clofe this article, I ihould obferve, that the fineft and
earlieft falmon in the kingdom, and in great ifumbers, could
be fifhed every feafon of the year, dofe^to thefe garden^
which would be a gre^t convenience to any family refiding
the?c.
qf HdUdrk. 53
DnriStf fb^ilr.— The next piece of ultiqiutj worth j. of
iwtioe is Dirlet Caftle. It ftands in a vcxj beautiful ro-
laandc place in the Highlands, called Dirlet, on a round
high f ock, very fteep, almoft perpendicular on all fides.
TIk rock and cafile hang over a very deep dark pool, in
tbe river Thurfo, which runs dole by its fide. On each
fide of the river and the caftle, and very near them, are
two other rocks much higher, looking down over the cafile,
with a fiately and lowring majefty, and fencing it on thefe
fides. By appearance, as well as by accounts, it was a
pjaoe of ftrength in the days of rapine and plunder. For
further iecurity it had the river on one hand, and a dit^h
on the other, through which the water was convejre^, with
a draw-bridge. The laft inhabitant was a defcendent of
the noble &mily of Sutherland. He was called in £ife
%h^ Ruiler Dirgf that is, the Red Knight. Having been
denoonced a rebel for his oppreifive and violent pradtces,
he was apprehended by Mackay of Farr, his own unde^
and died on his way to Edinburgh, fbrne fay to Stirling, to
be tried for his life. Mackay took pofieffion of bis eftate,
which confifted of the lands called the Ten penny land of
Braygald, a very fine and lucrative eftate, and his fucceflbrs
mjoyed it fior a coofiderable time. Whether Mackay got
thefe lands as a reward for his loyalty, and the fervices he
did his King and cpuntry by this afiion, or by what other
means, I cannot bj. Neither can I &y at what period of
%\m% thb Ruder Derg lived. His name and title, by aU
accounts, was Sir William Sutherland of Braygald, that is,
of the Height of Caithnels, This eftate has been for many
yean in the poffeffion of the family of Ulbfier, who acqui*
red itirom the Msck^ys.
Locbmore Cqftle^-^The next in courfe is Lochmore caftle,
about 8 miles above Dirlet. It fiood juft on the bank of
lie
54 Staiiftical Account
tfbeiocht htngiag ovti the firft csmiit bf die river oot of
!(•• In that plsoe the river is vcrj murrow, and ▼ecy.deef^
Mid whhal very corrnit. It is fiud, hj repoft, to bmm
keen binlt and inhabited b^ a perfoaage called Mwnrar^ mm
Steam % that is, Lord of the Game or Venifoo, becaofe he
delighted in thefe rural fports. It u (aid alfo, that there
was a cheii, or feme kind of nsachinei fixed in the mooth
of the Areaaiy below the cafile, fbr catching iafauoo in tboir
aogreia into the loch, or.cheir egreis oat of it y and diat, im-
ncdiatelj as the fifli was entsngkd in the machine, the
capture was annonnced to the wh<de family by the ringiag
of a.'bell, which the motion and ftroggles of the fifh fet a«
going, Iqr means of a fine cord, that was fixed atone end
to the bell, in the middle of an upper room, and at die
«tfaer end to the machine in the dream bdow. This is by
no means improbable ; for in thefe days, when the Aloaon
were more plenty than they are now, and had a freeoomft,
Jhat ftream and that loch mod have been fwarming wiA
4hat fiih ; and it would be fo ftill, had not our modem in-
"veations prevented it.
This Morrar, na Shean, according to report, was very
onxious and impatient to have a (on to inhefit hb eftates
and honours i but he had only 3 daughters fucceffively,
nt which he was fo difappointed and enraged, that he maU
treated the modier wad the daughters ; |and the mother,
dreading more and more her huiband's dtfpleafure and
ill nfiige of herfelf and the in&nts, detached them pti-
▼ately to a place where, without his knowledge, they were
feai«d up into very beautifol and aiocomx>liflied young la-
dies, all along amafing the barbarian hufband and parent
with the laudable pretext that they were dead. Morrar^ na
3 Sheao,
O Tbere U ccafim to btliere tlist hu nssK wss Chejat.
^ ffaikirk. 55
SheHiy at laft defpairiag of baving any more childreoy antf
fflakmg a vaft regret that he had no child at aH, his lad/
availed herfelf of the favonraUo opportumtyi prefents htm
with his 3 daagfaters, and thereby converts his rage andt
difioontentment into a tranfjport of joy and furprife. The
happy (bare difiurmed htm of his terrors ; the charoM of hia
dao^ters ia&Cffd a complacency through his whole firam«« '
The interview is a fcene oi love, heightened by a happy*
matml difappointment ; and he thanks God, that his eftatca
woold not be under the belt of one man, as he called it.
They are foon difpofed of in marriage ; the eldeft to a Sio^
clair from the Orkneys, the fecond to a Keith, and the laff
to one of another name, but of fome rank.
This ftory is wild and romantic, but it is by no means
irrecoorileable to the* favage notions and barbarous u&gesl
of theie ifark and fuperftitious times. It may not be alto«
gether accmiiing to the original fiift, but is exaftly the cur-<
rent tradition of the neighbourhood. It may be too much
exaggerated by the embelliihmeirts of £incy ; yet, 1 nm
perfnaded, it is founded on fome event of this nature that
has taken place in thefe times, otherwife it would not have
been (o currently and fo facredly tranfnritted from age tc^
age by oral tradition. Who this Morrar, na Shean was, I
cannot find ; but I fufped that he was one of the Harolds,
who had one of his feats at Braal, and retired occaiiondlj
to his hunting- feat at Lochmore for his amnfement ; for
this reafon he was called hy the mock name of Morrar, na^
Shean, i. e. Lord of the Venifon or Game, becaufe beloved
the one for his table and palate, and the ocher for his fport
and amufeooent. It cannot be expeded that I cah afcer^
run the era when this wonderful ftory happened, though I
doubt not, had I accefs to the archives of the old families
in the country, but I might trace it out, at leafl by way of
indiidion.
$S Statifikdl Act^unt
ftidadioa. Suffice it» tbat it has the appearance of a ^«ry
old ftorjy and tbat it is^ very probable that theie marriages
pve the Siodairs and the Keiths, who came over here
more immediatelj from the Orkneysi the firft footing in
Caithneis, where, in a Ihort time, thej grew b great and
powerful ; and to make this fiill the more probable^, there
was a Keith a viceroy, if I recoUefi, in the Orkneys, under
the Daai(h monarchy, before any of that name, and per*
haps of the name of Sinclair, had a footing in this cooncry.
Next prefents idklf the awfiil remains of a very large
&bric, at a phice called Achnavam, near the loch of Ca»
theL It was certainly a building of great ftrength ; and
feems to have been the habitation of heroes, who delighted
^ in hardy deeds of arms," and who^ therefore, were in
danger, night and day, of being furprified on all hands by
enemies of the lame kidney. It was fortified by feveral
outworks, the remains of which ftrike the beholder with a
len&tion of terror ( for they bring to hb Hwrr the violent
and bloody icenes that have been there adrd, together with
the dreadful, precarious, and hoftile ftate of thefe times.
By whom or when it was built, or by whom inhabited, I
cannot find ; but only that current report lays, that it was
inhabited by a Danilh prince. This is by no means in*
credible, efpeciaUy when it b confidered, that in thofe days
thb country was perpetually infefied with noble adventu-
rers from that kingdom, who pofltfled themielves, by force,
of the property of the natives, and kept it afterwards by
the lame hofiile and violent means by which they feized
* It, till at length they became as naturalized and fecure as
the natives themfelves.
There are other remains of antiquity almoft innumerable*
Indeed, I know not any parifli that abounds with more*
What were the particular defign or occafion of them I can*
not
^ Halkirki 57
sot predlelj faj, neither can I well find. Bat the/ fliew,
in general, that this country was once a theatre of iniquity,
Uoodihed, and vioknce ; natives opprefling and plundering
natives, and foreign rapacious adventurers making a prey
of them all. There is not one of thefe antiquities that has
the leaft appearance of being the habitation of peace and
iecurity. Surely they coft immenfe labour and expence in
bnilding and defending them, and the people could not be
weak or few in thofe days. For the manifeft defign of
them required a great number of hands, and ftrong ones
too» to accompliih it ; but how they were fupported and
maintained, when the moft of their time and labour rouft
have been ingrofied by thefe machinations ofieniive andde«
fenfive, b a myftery which I cannot pretend to folve : for
in {bcfa^aftate of afiairs, though a great number of people
and great expence was neceflarily required for theie purpo-
fes, yet very few hands, and very little time and indufiry
could be fpared for the purpofes of life ; and furely, when
they fooj^ & well, and fo frequently in thofe days, thej
mud have eat and ^funk well alfo ; but how or whence
they got thefe neceflary fupplies is, at this diftance of time,
hard to account for ; for the people then, as i^pears by the
mottiimenta they left behind themt lived more by plunder
and rapine, than by induftry and cultivating the field. It
is true, indeed, fiihing and hunting, and the beafis of pa^
flnre, would fiimiih a confiderable fupply, as there was
better same and fiihing, and more cattle^ and p^fture than
are now. It is tme alfo, that the foreign adventurers of the
north would bring fome money and, provifions along with
them. After all, it is dill a myftery, and fo I leave iu
Yet fo it is, that the people were then numerous, and
very roboft, and well fupported, otherwife they could not
carry 00 and atchieve what they did. Their houfes, or
VouXIX. H rather
58 StatiJUcal Account
rather fiiftnefles, feem all of them to have been compktelj
circular from bottom, to top, prodigioafly thick in the widb,
biult with the largeft fiones thej could get, without say
timber at all. Many of them were bnilt on emioenccsy
many on plains and low places, according as heft fmted the
defign, and many furroonded with ditches or ramparts,
with outpolls or redoubts, in a degree lefs or more. Tliey
are here called indifcriminately, as is commonly the cafe^
Pidifii Houfes, Dniidical Temples, Repofitories of the
Dead, Cairns, Toulichs. No doubt, they had jdaoes and
honfes for all thefe purpofes, befides their ftitmg holds and
places of (Irength ; yet fecnrity and ftrength b the cfaarac-
teriftic of all their honfes of what kind foever. Thole ef
them that were on the greatefi eminences weve erkfently
defigned for watch-towers, whereby any alarm of danger,
or approach of an enemy, was, t}uick as lightning, anneon-
oed to the whole comtry, by the rapid communication of
light from one watch-tower to Mother, and all thefe were
lb Rationed, as moft admirably to accommodate one ano-
ther, and confequently the whole country, to tfie remoteft
comers, as may be feen by any fpedator who compares
them, their fituations, and diflances to one another. This
admirable contrivajice was neceflary to a eonotry expofcd
to much as this was to the freqaent invafion of the Danes,
and the inroads and incurfions of their neighbours.
With regard to their dwelling-hottfes, I cannot pals ofcr
^ne or twa things I obfer^ed more than once v the finoie ii
alio obfervable in what remains of their ftroog towers \
thefe were oblong open flits, at certain diftances, all round
in the walls -, before each of thefe flits or windows was a
kdgment, of the dimeniions of % fmall bed. Thefe- lodg-
ments are in the ftalr, which mounts fpirally through the
heart of the wall from bottom to. top.. The defigii of this
of Halkirk.^ 59
15 evtdeat. Fuithort I bavf^ ieen in them nnmben of fmall
nxmd hmsd ft€iiC8» io the fowm of a ver j flat or oblate
fpbem, of at inches thick tn the centrcp aad about 4 inches
in diameter. • I have alfa feea other round ftooesj. perfedlj
circobr^ ^txf plaii| and Iqyel on. one fide»,with a fo^all rife.
at the cirCiMn{0rt|i6ii« fad f b$>ii^ « foot in diameter. Now»
I think the intention T>f both thefe kinds of ftpaes is mani-
feft. It was cefta^nlj to br^ak and grind their grain, as
thej bad 90 miU» of machines for that purpofe. This they
iidv b J breaking the grain on the larger done,: with the
InaU tound pblate ftone in thehr band.
Befides tbefe 'buildingii of ilqne, ieveral of which were
prodigiocist thcare are in vafioi^ parts of the parilb ditches
or intrcndiiiieots no leis aftoniAiing» edged on the outfide^
or cypofite parapeti with larg^ mounds of earth and fione^
sad iadofiog a-d^p hollow in the ceatie. Thefe were cer-
tainlj eneampVientSi in which they fortified and intrenched
themfelr^ in the tin>e of ejtcounter, or when they took
the field for 43iud engi^meoL Pitched battles have
bfdy been fipiigbc in theft places -^ and the remains of
floQcs that have b^n ere£Ud Aear, and at ieveral diilances,
from tbefe imrenchments, were defigned as memorials of
perfiMis of note^ who have fallen either in clofe battle, or
in the retreat or purfuit. But what tbefe battles were, at
^bat timcv and by whom they were fought, or who were
the eminent perfons who £sU| and for whom thefe memo*
riab were ereded, I believe is not to be found. By the
bye, I have no doubt but ibme of thefe ftoaes would be
erefiod in order to defend a &w perfons from the miflile
weapons of the enemy, and .to give them the advantage of
dilouffing their own miifile weapons at them with the
greater fuccels and fe^urity, on what fide foever of the ftone
they made their approach. ^
Uttrary
6o Stattftical Account
' littrary CbaraSer. — ^I have no accosnt of but one Kcc-
rarjr charafter, the Rev. Mr Daniel Campbell, foo to a far-»
mer, commonly called Padric Bujr, that is, YeBow Peter,
who was an Earfe poet, as well as hit fon, who compo-
fed, however,' both in Earfe and Englilh. This Daniel
was, and is (till called by the old people in this parifli,
patronimicanj, Dooil Bay, that is. Yellow Donald. He
was minifter of Kilmichael of Glafietie in Afgyleihire,
in 1698, as a fragment of one of his booki informs me,
which I have now in my hands. How long he was in
that parifli before the piiUication of this book I can*
not fay. By ail accounts he was a man of literatnre,
very pioos, devout, and fenfible, and withal very gene-
roas and charitable, very popular, much efteemed, aod
eminently ufefiil. He was, in his day, an able member,
and diftioguilhed charader of the charch, being^alfo an ex-
cellent orator. Thb fragment, which is all I have iieen of
hid works, is of a book entitled, Sacramental Meditations
on the Suflerings and Death of Ghrift. Alpimof rattooal
piety and good fenfe breathes through the whole perform-
ance, and it is reckoned a trieafure by all the piotts here
who happen to fall upon it. It was dedicat*ed to tiie Dot-
chefs of Argyle. He wrote and pnblilhed more eflays in
profe and verfe. Befides, he was a principal hand in tranf-
lating the P&lms of David into Iriih verie, to be long in
the church, and fupplied his friends in this country with
copies of the firft impreffioii. He was very generoofly
mindful of hb friends and relations, efpecially in this ps-
riOi ; for feverals of them being reduced in their cticom-
ftaoces, by the failure of crops, in confeqoeoce of a very
fevere froft early in harveft, he fcnt them frequent fuppliea
of money from Argyleihire, particularly, two ftmilies in
^ufaGlale, a placp in the height of this pariihi who were en-
tircly
of Halkirk. 6i
wciyfiipported by his munificence. In what pjuticnhr year
(his froft happened I cannot iay i but it was a memorable
year, and fiital to many. That it happened in hisb own
aad his fisher's day, appears not only from the circumftance
above mentioned, but alfo from a paragraph of a letter
tbcn wrote by the father to the fon: — ** AUdinues here is^
" iai di doks got ^er try on Paul Hacriig^ on £ tird of
** Augtr i. e. •* Aathe mws iere is,tiat tbedqgigot over
" dry on tig Pool o/Halkirkr The particular day of the
week on which it happened was Sunday ; and that it was
peculiarly fatal to Padnc Buy, appears from the following
poem he made on the occafion:
Koodh ud*haQic» ar Diadonich,
Ghour, a brone, as moQlUrd orm <
ChoUa a miibe, bhoay wnX,
Snichibbc mor» cbo buirras tetmbc
God* cbuirin cear, tiTf do bhotlidh.
Cbcart, o croay, 'fa barridh, dbatdb,
Noatr, a fcoabidb leamhe, alaar
Cho dbeaoidb, a tradb, doa* bbftiffehiB. ^
In Engliih :-—
Tbe Sabbath of the Iktal froft
Did ae great pain and fiurow coft.
It checkM me £■ my drink career*
For tittle cafli had I to fpare.
Though to the flatl Unx «eo apply,
And oa (heflieaf with veageance lay.
The flooTi at night, fwept clean and well,
Can fcarce produce a fcanty meat
Lm^/r^r.— This countyi being of old inhabited by a
mixture of people of different languages and ufiiges, I be-
lieve more fo than any other county in Scotland, the ori-*
gin
62^ StadfikMl Jicwunt
ffm of kvtni enflomt; whkh ban prevtiM for ft long'
tiiM afterwardt, and faoia 9t wbicb do fttll pnvaflt is ta
be traced Co that p^od. From this intaf muitnre (fting
nany words in their languaga, efpccially words ezpraflii^e
of lb* »ame9 of perbas, of plaoei, of Tefloii» and Taricoa-
vteafib and tAftrumoms, V^. But a very ooofidoraUe
part of tbia iatemiixtttra being Uaoo aod Norvtgiam, as
thafe were, by all aoco«nts» faperior in powtr and poflfef-
fioa, fo their language and urages would be tba moft pre*
Talent aUb ; and among the other eiefb ol ibia prevalaoce,
wara the names whidi were given to places, asaoy of whic:ii
are manifeftlj of Danilb oripn. This eireumflance, toge-
ther with tlie variations they have necelTarily undergone
in the different flages of time fince that period, render it
almoft impoflible to afcertain, or trace out their real mean-
ing at this diflance of time.
At prefent there are two languages fpoken in this parilh,
vi». the EarCe and the Engli^i. The former is much cor*
rupted, but yet fpoken with great fluency and emphafia,
and not without harmony of (bund. The latter has alfo
many words, which are neither Englifii nor Scotch, yet, ac-
cording to its idiom, it is fpoken with great propriety, aod
the fentiments are ezpraifed by it, either in narration or
delcrip^oh, as intelligibly and fignifioantly, as in any coun-
ty in Q'eat Britain, nay, I dare fay, more fo than in moft of
them. :Thele languages are fpoken in various degrees.
Some fpeak only the Earfe, but do not fpeakor underftand
the Englifh ; fome underftand the Englifti, but do not
fpeak ic; fome* fpeak the Englifti, but do not fpeak or un-
derifamd the Earfe -, fome underftand the Earfe, but do not
lpeak4^K^4^ ^^^gi'^A^cft'OpQib^f fpeak and underftand
both the& t*lf*^uages equally well. / Tjiis y their ftate with
regard to iaoguagp ; but o£ late 7!^%. th$ Englifti is ma^
king great prbgrefs at the ezpence of the Earfe.
Farms^
of Hatktrk. «3
Farms — ^Hic farms in this parifli are of great variety
With refped to rent or taek-d'uty, afrtndlng through vari-
ous degrees, from L. 2 to L. ibo, Thofe of them that fall
under the defcripdbn of too kfge tacks or farms, are cer-
tainly a great bane to ioduftryand population, and the ne-
ceflary caufes of many inconviefiiencies to fnbtenants ; and
it is equally certain, that the advantages arifing from them
either to the tackfman or the proprietor, are imaginary and
delufive, and terminate in the prejudice of the intereft of
both. But how happens this ? Why, the tackfman, who is
not able to labonr but a very fmall part of the tack him-
felf, and founds his credit and fupport on what he can
make of the fubte nants, this tackfman, in order to keep
credit iPrith the proprietor, and to fiipport his family, im-
pofes, and perhaps of neceffity, heavy burdens on the fob-
tenants, by which they are in the end difabled to keep
credit with this tackfman. 'Hie proprietor, by the; rent
he eza£b from the tackfman, will reduce him in the end
to bankruptcy, if he has no other (hift; and if he fltould
have fuch fliifts, it is odds but he moft pay for thefe alfo»
as ibon as they are perceived. Thus, the great evil origi-
nates with the proprietor, though perhaps undefignedly.
Tet I will not Hand forth in the vindication of thefe large
tackfmen. They therofelves af e much to blame, either by
taking tacks, which oblige them to diftrefs others and
thcmfelves; or, if they hold their tacks on reafonable
terms, by opprefling their fubtenonts, not from motives of
neceffity, but from motives of gain, and to make them*
fdves eafy at their expence.
And, as too large farms are great evils, for the reafons
above iiated, fo, on the other hand, too fmall ones ^re no
lels fo, for other reafons no lefs important. They are too
inadet}uate to the butdezi they have to fupport, even when
they
^4 Siatyiical Account
A€j «re held on retfonabk terms ; but bow Much moc« Co
when the cafe is often otberwife. What is this burden ?
Vfhjf theie tacks fubjeA their poOeflbrs to £everal iervi-
indes, which ooght ncccflarily to be beftowed on their &-
milies and farms i to ezpenoes in hbouringf too difpropor-
cionate to the profits thej can ezpe£L They have rents to
paji a familj and iervants to fupport, a horfe, an oz, and
cow to buj, any of which may be more than the rent ^
and oftentimes their fmall crops are Yery much curtailed
by the rapacious hand of the millert who has every power
and opportunity in his hands to treat them without mercy*
N0W9 the& are things which too imail a farm cannot bear,
even though the tenant held it otherwife on reafonable
terms. They are, at beft, but a deifeitfiil kind of wretched-
neisy amufing them with gilded and fallacious hopes, which
reconcile them to their prefent ftate, but fednce them into
complete ruin at laft. The meaneft fervant of fuch a te-
nant reaps much more from his tack than he does him£el£.
Another great evil ariiingfrom^thefe too imall farms
IS, that they are a flrong temptation to tradelmen to take
them, whenever they have made a few pence by their
trade, in which they were profperous before they became
tenants ; now, being entrapped into a farm, their families
and their trade ru(h into ruin at once. By this means a
good and ufefiil tradefman is loft to the public, or rather
becomes a burden to it.
There is, further, another evil accompanying thefe too
Imall tacks ; they entice many from the fervice to become
tenants, who could have lived more comfortably and nfe-
fully in their former ftate. This is one great reafon why
fervants are fo dear, and fo difficult to be got by the far-
mer, or if he gets them, that they are fo uointerefied and
careleis in his fervice. From the moihent they engage io
3 the
of Halkirk. w 65
the fcrvice, the .only objeft that occupies. their ittcntion \%
to gather a few penc^, to enable them to marry^ and take
one of thcfefmall farms. X^us they are impatient of the fcr-
Tice, and make.it only a Job of very lecondary .confidera«
ti on while they ate in it. Hence it is, that they leave the fqr-
vice without any great ftpck or chara£ler, and redpce them-
ftlves to mifery at lad ; whereas, if they had not the temp-
tation of thefe fmaU tacks before them, neceflit^ and felf-
intetcft would compel (hem to make a chan^der in the fer-
vice, becaufe, in this cafe, their .future profpeAs woi|14 en-
tirely depend upon it, having ooimB^diate profped of
being able to take a farm* v^hich would require a great-
er flock .than fervants ufu^Hy can afford. Thus, the pa-
ciih woqld,be.)>etter accommodated in fervants; and th€
(crvants, on the other band, wpuld live more comfortably*
This is by no ineans mi^ai^t to limit or circumfcribe the
cbaoces.cf ietrants* JNxj; on the contrary, it is their true
iotecffi and, welfare I aim at.
Tjwne M jtt anotl^er gqevaiipe occurs to me, and qf
wbichvtl^efetopJmaU tasK?> ^f ^^ occaSon. Thjc conti«
oaal.aec^lfities of iheir^pofSe^prs put. them on ihifts for pre«
ient fi^lief, yihifh ^ome upi9n thcim with vei^geapce at laft*
The]r;(peiid,ajgce4t;p^ of fiwimer and bacveft in carry*
i^gjeacs anfi b^athfntp Thntfo, which wot^ld have bee^l
moR luTefi^tly .ao^ ^pco^ably [bcAowed on the neceiTary
putpofes qf ^e &rm. |Bad3th\s.time an^ labour they fub« |
trad £rom .the farvn |>een Jn any tolerable d^ee compeo«
latedjhj their j^rofits.tn tbis bufinefi of carriage, ^there
would be lefs to fay. Biittbis is,not the cafe ; for the va«
loe they get for their time and labour is very inconfider*
able ; mi tflMimakea it more (b is, that a great part, if
aot the f«bQle«of it, js ;lpie0t .qlidcl^Iy before they rttom i
^ (heir.boriesi which are aigreat part of their (look, are .
both jaded and rflai^ved* JHad fbeybetn near the town»
VcL. XIX. I and
66 Statijlical Account
and provided in carts, it would have made this bufiaefs
more tolerable and profitable ; bat» on the contrary, they
carry them the diftance of 9 or lo miles, and in bad roads,
and on their horfes backs \ and fix horfes will not carrjr
what one cart would hold, and one horfe would carry in
that cart with eafe ; mere neceflity is the caufe of this
wretched bufinels.
From the fame caufe it b alfo, that numbers of thele
fmall tenants fell, early of the year^ and at a low price,
the vi&ual that Ihould go to fupport their families, and paj
the matter. By this means, in order to filence the clamo-
rous dun of their creditors, who^ no doubt, may avail tfaen^-
felves of their neceflity, little remains for the rent and the
family ; and if it ihould fo happeu that they pay the rent,
yet they are, at the long run, reduced to the neceflity ol
buying vidual at a dearer rate than they fold ; and if they
have no money or credit, a9 for the moil part they have
not, the mailer mud interpofe with hb purfe or hb vidnal,
or they mufl ftarve. Very ofton they make whilky of
their beer, with a pretence to make money for the rent.
By this bufinels, whatever profit the ^ftiller may have, I
am fure they can have none, but rather lofs, confidering
the time fpent, the duty paid, the whiiky drunk, the pot
hire, as they call it, and the want of the draff and burnt
ale, which go to the difiiller. Now, from what I have
iaid about farms, it b not to be underftood that I allude to
the pofitive deamefe of tacks. No ; I all along alude to
their relative deamefi, or as they fiand with refped to the
prefent date of things in the pariflu.
Sirvicis. — ^I have mentioned fervices more than once as
a grievance. They are fo, and ought to be abolifhed, if
for no other reafon, yet for thb great one, vns. that the te-
nant might have all hb time and laboor for the purpofe»
of
of Halkirk, 67
of lus fioin and credit. Thefe will necefTarily require the
whole of his induftry and time, though none of them were
befiowed to ferre the purpofes of the landlord. Here it
may be laid^ that thefe fervices are abundantly compen-
iated by the eafy terms on which they hold their tacks.
This is mere deldion ; for fcarcely will aAy confideration
of thb kind, were it tmci coropenfate the negle6k of their
own neceflary afiairs at home. Befides, on the fuppo^
fition that they have value in their tacks for thefe fervices,
yet, being always in pinching circumftances, it is with the
greateft relu&ance they perform them. Becaufe they are
not animated with a prefent meal for their hungry paunch, *
and with the profpefi of payment at night to carry it home
to a craving family, they confider the whole as loft time
and labour ; therefore they perform the fervice but very
heavily and indifferently, and are well pleafed how little the
work is if the night is come. This being the cafe, what
they do is far fiiort of the work of a day-labourer, who ex-
pefis his hire at night to refireOi and enliven himfelf and
£imily on his return. Thus the matter's work goes on but
'flowly and ilightly, and their own work at home ne-
gleded.
ilfi]2&.—- Mills are, in fome parts at leaft of the parifh, a
very great and {hameful grievance. The proprietor, for
an advance of rent, is tempted to give a leafe of the £atrm
and mill upon it, without any reftriftions. The tackfman,
thinking he pays too dear, falls on ihifts to make reprifals.
He fubfets the mill to under millers, at a rate which they
are not able to anfwer. The millers, that they may keep
credit, of necei&ty opprefi the fuckeners. The fucken-
ers complain to the laird, or his fador. They get no
hearing or redreis. They return home, lamenting their
£ae« The millers redouble their oppreiHon. The fucken«
I ers
68 Statijlkat Account
crt £0 in hamt)1e proftratioa before the rnafter miller^ and
prefent their petition to his majeftjr. His intereft' H too
lUBcb concerned | he knows the millers cannot pay lirm,
unleis tbej are verj fevere \ tie tnrns his back, bids the di-
firefled fnppliants good day ; he has nothing to do with
the mill ; it is fubfet \ let them agree with the mill'en.
Thus they all fin by proxy, and the poor fuckener is the
lacrifice. Thus the proprietoff and tenant pay dearly for
this additional rent, for more reafons than one, whicfi are
too obvious to be mentioned. However, it is not amiis to
produce an inftance. There b a tack in my neighbour-*
hood, the rent of which is L. 46. It is as much a grais ^s
^ corn tack. This tack pays the mill, according to the
prefent price of vi&ual, L. 8, los. which is very near x-
5th of the rent \ and yet the miller is not (atisfied. Kot
many years ago, the multure, Uc. paid out of this farm
was not near one half of what it is now, neither was the
produce of it lels, however more.
CBftcltifion^ — ^Now all thefe evils, and many more, might
be removed, and many great advantages introduced, if the
prefent ftate of things were modified, or in fome meafure
altered. This, I think, might be eafily eifeded ; and the
pariih is a moft excellent fubjed for it. I need not
point out the means whereby this defirable end would
moft likely be brought about. They are obvious to
common obfervation. If the heritors had attended more
to their own true intereft, and confidered that of their
tenants as. their own, for they are infepamble ; if they
had done this, it would naturally and neceftarily lead
them into this meliorating, plan \ but the difficulty is to
perfuade them that the adoption of fuch a plan would be
their intereft. The temptation of prefent gain makes
rtcna Wind to what wpuld enlarge their future profpeds,
«q4
and be foetbfiMftiilg^ ^th. doable vdlXjoA ta^ their advan«
tage. BqC what.it diisplaii'? Let theia duly coi^der. the
prefent ftate of thipg^ anddt will fogged the plan ta themi
The malady will point out the i^medj, if they dMiffe C6
embrace and appTj it. Without entering dee^ into this
affiify which I leave to tbemfelves and more abk hiandsi
I would Beg^^kvvetKi fuggeft- to them in- geiii^- the ne«
ceffity and great advantage of exciting a ipirir ei induflijr,
fragalit J9 and emulation among their tenants, by due en*-
couragement and §pod ezampte, of potting their traffick
and commerce into a. better channel ; o£ introdooiiigr into
the part(h feme- Brandies of efsMe- aM< m«raf«6mvi of
which it is capat>Ie ; of animating them vtritK. the com-
fortable profpefi. of enjoying the fruit of their labours;
and* finaliyi ^uid aibove aU, of oheriihii^. and cuitiirating^
their principles, both moral and religioos. Tlnl weuM-y
in a fliort time, briiig aBdut better crops, and a greater
variety of them; more particularly, it would introduce
the raifing of flax, for which this parifh is well calculated.
It would Airther enlarge their commerce and credit,
would fornifli a more ready market, which they ofteii
want; and torn the balance of trade, which at prefent
is againft them in feveral articles, to be in their favour.
Finally, it would make cidtivation lefi expenfive, and'
more efieAod;, efpeoially io the articles of fervanta and)
labouring cattle, which aM juft now a burden ; for near
ooe half of both would ferve all the purpofes of the]
&nner^ if they were of a better kind, and properly guided*.
We ihall conclude with the following
Simifiica/
y Statyikal Auount
SiaHJUcal TaUi o/iie Pmi/b cfHaOiri.
Length in £nf liih milei* 24 Number of aamaffric
Breadth, 9 - above 45, - 44%
Fopnlatimi m t7S5> - VnS widowtn, - 4*
■ ■ in X79»» - 3i«o ■ widowi, 8f
Increale» - - 105 — — membere of tbc E-
Avenge of births Ibrfefcral ftabliihed Ghnrch, - 51 <•
yeara precediiif 1791, %$ P^oprictora rcfiJiog. 3
-—of marriages ditto, %% ■■' non^rclid. 3
Number of males, - 1650 £Aabli(hed clergyoMii, - i
— -*— fcmalei, - 1530 Mtffionary. - . . j
■ perfins voder s Number of fchoolmaften, - %
years of age, • $51 Innkeeper, ... x
» betwteu 10 & to, 685 Number of tradefinen, - 73
— — — between ao Ic 50, 986 ■ day-labourers, 50
■ between 50 & 70, 481 ■ men-ferrants, 308
— - — between 70 8b 80, 55 ■ women-iervantab 3ar
- between 80 8b 90, ao ■ poor, • x5o
aao
• bachelors, or on. ploughs, 311
married men above io»
▼alued rent, in Sootch-money, - - - - L. 3314 7
Real rent, in Staling, ann% 1791, .... aaoo
o
STOCK.
Number of borfin^ - 1650 Number of goats, - 130
•""- cattle, • 4963 ■■ - fwine, - 190
• Iheep, . 9890 ■■ ploughing oieuy 194
ANNUAL SAL1E.
A^-rage export of grain, - . . x8oo bolls.
A-aagefltleofcattle, .... 1000 head.
NUM.
43f Falkirk. yi
NUMBER IL
PARISH OF FALKIRK,
(CoTOTT OF Stirling, Stnod. of Lothian axd Twseq-
BALE, Pr£8BTTKRT OF LlNLITHaOW),
By Jamcs Wilson, M. A. MiniJlir»fibiPar0t,
BoundatieSf and general Befcripiion.
THE plrifli of Falkirk is between 7 and 8 miles in
length from £• to W. and in fome parts more dian
4 miles in breadth. It is bounded on the E. bj the frith
of Forth and the parifla of Polmont; on the S. by the pa-
rilhes of Polmont and Slamanaan ; on the W. by Gumber-
nanld and Denny ; and on the N. by the river Carron,
which feparates it from the united parifhes of Larbert and
Dunipace. By the changes which the conrie of this river
has undergone, a few boufes belonging to this pariih are
now on the Larbert fide ; and a few, which are conneded
with that parifl), are oa the Falkirk fide of the river.
FrooT
72 Suu^ical Account
From a reference to the pariflb of Falkirk, in an aAion
with refpefi to the patronage of die diurch and parilh of
Oldhamfiock^y in the jpreftjjtti^r 'Of Dunbar, which was
depending^ in the year 1748 between the King and Mr
Hay of Lawfieldy it appears that the pariflies of Denny,
Slamanna^y iMoivavoofiide, jand Polmpot, conftitnted for-
merly parts of the parfonage of Falkirk. The three firft
of thefe parishes mod have been very early (eparated from
Falkirk; bat it was not till the year 1724 thatPolmoot
was formed into a -pmlh. The iminifter of iPohatmt^fs
not only 4tipend'finom%is own pai^, bat aUb from thofe
of Falkirk and Denny.
The efiate of Callander having been confifcated im me-
diate .after\lbe«Mim^qn an j|h.ejear ^7 xj, .it w)fl fold
about the year 1 720 $ and fuch tithes as were not conveyed
with the eftate, were difpofed of by the commiffionets and
truilees of the forfeited eftates in Scotland to Mr Hamilton
of 'PiehflieftdH»dar4his exprtia ftipulation, that thry flinnld
be fubjeft to the llipend of a minifler for the new pariih,
which was to be taken off the parilh of Falkirk. This cir*
cumftance explains by what means it happened that (Upend
is paid both, out tif^li^ta IWfifli^ndiDlcanjr^tPlke minifler of
Polmont.
Falkirk. isifitu^edion'tlHb north itaad'bfttweeorEjlinfHii^
and'Oiaigow, and it is nearly At .«n .ei|ttalrdiftan«e from
both. SThe road to fiti^liog and the North {^ghlan^s alb
pB^es thcQugh this towp. Falkidc was' oose denomaated
JSxd^btae^ tihatis, tfaedChnrch on the Brow ; add jtbe Mme
18 tmly defctiptlve of the fitnatton, :fbr .tiiett^im ftandson
an^mtnence, which has a dncUvib^ mi fivvqr :6de. Ititlbe
Gacliclangoage it isxalled.an Eghis UrUfimt more com*
monly.an.JS^» iirec. The ibrmer/of .Ih^e.phr4£i& ijg*
nific8<tbe)Brdcien Church, which fometbMikjis not iippra*
pcrly tranfiated Falkitk, that is, the:FaUen Church. Cqr-
<f Falkirk. 73
tin it IS, that tlie church of Falkirk, as it now fiandsi has
aot all been buik at the fame time. In the year xx66» it
-was pven * to the monailery of Holyroodhonfe bj the
Biihop of St Andrew's ; and as the pariflies belonging to
Ifaefe religious foundations were often not properlj attend-
ed to with refpeft to religious inftruftion and accommoda^
tioo, lb it is not improbable that the church of this parifh
might have been permitted to fall into ruiui and thence the
name under confideration might have taken its ri£e.
jfm Eghui Mrecj the latter of the Gaelic defignations
which I mentioned, fignifies the Spotted Church. To this
name Buchanan, who underftood the Graelic language, gives
his fupport, for in his Hiftory of Scotland he calls Falkirk,
^ Varium Sacellum/* It is fuppoled bj fome, that it got
d>at defignation from the partj-ccdonred appearance of the
fiones in the building*
As the wdl of Antoninus, which w9I afterwards be de-
fcribed, paiTed very near the church, and where a part of
the town is built, fome are of opinion, that the prefent
same of this place is derived from Valium and Kirk^ which
by an eafy tranfition, became Falkirk, thereby fignifying
the Church upon the Wall.
The greater part of this parifh is inclofed and fubdivided,
«s well as enriched by trees, villas, and gentlemens feats.
The numerous fine trees which are in Callander park and
its neighbourhood, together with the wood belonging to
the iame place, add much to the pleafantnels of the town
of Falkirk ; as it is fituated in the immediate vicinity of
thefe rural and enlivening objeds. From the manfe, and
other places on the north fide of the town, the profpeft is
delightful, and comprehends a fertile and well- cultivated
•oontry of xa or 14 miles fquare, which is bounded by the
Vol. XIX. K OchU*
# Nifluno's HUbry of SiirUD£lhire» page 135.
74 Statyiical Account
Ochil-hills aod elevated litoations id the coantiei of Sht-
ling, Fife^ and Linlithgow. Toward the N. W. the tops
of feme of the Highland hills are to be icen, involved io
clouds, and at certain frafons of the year coveted with
fnow, when none of it is to be feen eliewhetx witfaia the
whole compafa of onr profpe£L A part of the frith ef
Forthy prefenting itlelf to view, tmd the veiTels, pafiuig oti
the canal, within a mile of Falkirk^ enbanee coafi4erafal7
the beauty of the fcene.
When this proTped is involved in the darkiiefe tjt night*
the flashes of light from the iron- works at Carron, appear
in awful and fublime majefly. When a fall of rain or
fnow is foon to happen, the light is refraded by the thick
and moid atmofphere, and confiderable illuminations ap-
pear in the air above the works. Thefe are feen at a coo-
fiderable diflance, and great flafbes of light arc thrown into
the boufes in this neighbourhood, which have windows to-
ward the Carron works. Upon the eminence on the S.
of Falkirk, the profpefl: not only comprehends the whcd^
view which I have dtfcribed, but alfo the fcenery about
Callander houfe, to which I have already alluded ; the vef-
fejs in the harbour of Grangemouth ; the mafts of thofe in
that of Borrowftounnc&i the ruins of the palace of Lin-
lithgow; the fteeples of that town, and thofe of Daa:
fermline ; together with a variety of flriking obje6b on
l>oth fides otthe frith of Forth, as well as thofe which i^-
pear in other points of the profpe£(.
Population^ and E^clefiajlicat StaU^^Tht pariib of Fal-
kirk contains about 8c20 inhabitants. In the town there
fure 389a ; in the village of Camelon there are 568 ; in that
of Briansfprd *, 758 \ in the village of Grangemouth, 410 ;
und in that of Lauriefion, 838 ; in the country part of the
pariib
of Falkirk^ 75
pairiOi the inhabitants are about 1534 in namber *• Among
a people fo numerous, we muft expedto find different fen-
timcRts refpfffing religion, as well as about every other
fubjed which comes under their confideration ; but it is no
ikiafi confolation to feei that the bittemefs of ill-direded
zeal is faft giving way to charity, and the natural influence
of progrcffive improvements. Nothing will fland the teft
of time and experience, but that which is founded on truth.
Error and prejudice wHl pafs away, and it behoves us to
rejoice, that amongfl the wreck of falfe or unimportant
fpecnlations, virtue will remain without a blemiih, and
completely fecnre. It is the effence of true religion ; it is
the point where men of worth meet ; and it is the centre
from which every ray of excellence proceeds. Thejarrings
of interefl may, on occaiions, drflurb the calmnels of hu-
man fife ; but if reafon dire£t the thoughts, and conduft
the aftions, tlie eSeds on the whole muft be harmony and
peace.
In the town of Falkirk, there is one chapel for the
Burghers, two for the Antiburghers f , and one belonging
^ to the Relief interefl. In Lauricflown, there is a chapel
for the mofl ancient Prelbytcrian Diffenters In Scotland,
who are generally known by the name of Macmillanitcs.
The congregoktions of thefe different meeting houfcs are
compofcd
<• Tiicaon«ali»Ufliberof birtfas^takeniipon an average from January r.
1784 to Jaouar/ 1794* is 171. Th« anoual number of mai-riages taken ia
the fame manner, for the Ctme term of years, i» 62. But it appears, that
the popuUcioo of the panfli is incrcaling, for the average of marrla^ci
for the lal( eight yean is 7s.
^ Tbrre is a difference fubCfltng between the two congregations of
Antiburgbcrt iri this town, which arofe chief!/ from the manner of fctting
•part tU elcaieati io the JLord's fupper.
^6 Stati/lkal Account
compofed of people from this and other paiUhes. In di9
parifli there are a few of the Epilcopal perfuaiumi who^
have an opportonity of attending divine lenrice every £ort-
night at Carron. The Roman Catholics are veiy few m
number here, and have no place of worfliip in the nd^i^
bourhood*
The church of Falldrk is the only place of public wor«
ihip iu this pariih for ^thoCe who belong to the religion*
aftabliihment of Scotland* The building is in the form
of a crols, and bt from being fuflkient for the accommoda-
tion of thofe who wilh ta attend ^ but it is hoped fomeyhing
will fioon be done to provide » remedy for this inconve-
nience*
Before the Refoamataon, the parilkof ValkiriL belonged
tathe &e of St Andrew's*. Immediately after that period,
and before the Prcfbycerian mode of worlhip had aflumed
its prefent fenui there were fuperintendents appointed for
the differaic diftriSs of the country. Falkirk was witfaiB
the bounds of Mr Spottifwood'a infpediooy who was parfon
of Calder-Comitis *, and &ther of Spottifwood, who fnp«
ceeded the fuperintendent in the parfonage of Calder^ was
Archbifliop of Glafgow after Elpifcopacy was re-eftabliihed
in Scotland^ wrote a hifiory of the Church, and, after en-
joying many honours, died Axchbifliop of St Andrew's.
While he prefided over this fee, that part of the.diooefe
which was fituated on the fonth fide of the frith of Forth
was erefted into* a biflioprick, and caHed the fee of Edin-
burgh. St Gileses was the cathedrali and the minifter of
Falkirk was one of the twelve prebends. His lalary for
this office was L. 80 Scotch, whick is L* 6 : 13 : 4 Sterling.
A perfon of the name of Forbes was the firft Bifliop of
thi»
* Thii pariih is oow divided into two* wUch sic odled Mid ind WcAc
of Falkirk. 77
tfas diocefe* He is reprefented as having been a man of
Inning and pietj, but rather Tufpefted of being a friend
to Poperj. His ftadies ivere chieflj dire&ed toward anti^
qoides ; and being reclufe in his manners, he was little ac-
quamted with the world. It is iaid that it was no uncoio.
mon thing for him to preach five or fix boors ac a time *•
After the benefice of Falkirk was befiowed upon the
lonaftery of Hotyroodhoafe, the Kving of this paxiib be-
came a vicarage. The great tithes* which formerlj be-
longed to the parfon, were then claimed by the religious
order to which they had been given, and the niinifter of
die pariih was paid with the (mall; and the parfon of Fal*
kiriL ^ill receives fome finall foms of money as vicarage-
does. The ft^end of this parUh coofifis at prefent of 33
boDs of barley, 64 of oat-meal, and about L. 65 : 14 : %.^
of money, together with a manfe, garden and glebe. The
ffiinift^ of Falkirk alfo claims a right of getting from the
efiate of CaUaader all the codb which are made ufe of by
his family, without any other ezpence than that of paying
fior cutting them from the flratum in the pit, and bringing
tbem home« Among feveral donatioas which King Da-
vid I. made to Ae monaftery of Newbottle, was that of
fuel and paflnre for cattle in the wood of Callander f, and
it was upon this grant, I prefume, thac the privilege under
confideration was founded.
The King is patron of this church, and has the 'right of
prefenting miniflers to all the pariibes of which the Earl
€»£ Linlithgow and Callander was patron before he was at«
tainted of high treafon. The patronage of the church of
Denny appears, by the deed of conveyance, to have beea
fold
• Burnet's Hifbry of hit own times, toI. L p. 31*
f Njamo'a HUlonrof StirUngOiue, p. iss*
7$ StatiftkaJ Aecount
tfbld along with the barony of H^evtfyre m tile year
1632. Tbk tranfodioii was {andioned by qhartrrs of cob-
fivmatioa firom the King in the years 1654 and 16S0.
However the King, as weU as Mr Moirhead, claims ttftc
n^x of prefenting^ and- the matter 'hai^ not yet been bronght
to a final dedfion.
Scbw>b — ^The grainmar4chool of Ftflkirk b juftly h«ld
in gveat nopntation. JBefides the fchool-wages, the roafter
'-enjoys a (alary and confiderable eniolaments as iel&oo-
derk. We have here a fchool for EnglHh, to which < these
is dfo a £dary anneaoed, the mirfler whenof has no fmail
degree of oiertt in the line of his profeffion. There are other
ichools in Falkirk which do honoar to their mafters ; and»
upon the whole, our youthis have good opportunities of
laying the foundation of ftitore ufefnlneisand importance*
In the village of Camelon there is a dwellkig^ioufe and
fchool-room provided for the encouragement of a fehool-
mafter, but no ialary. Lord Dondas of .Aike gives to a
fchoolmafier in Grangemouth a houfe to dwell in, a fchool-
"^^ room, and L. 5 a-year. In Lauriefton he gives a^dweUing'
houfe and fcbeol-room, but not any falary. One of the
Aaaie of Scott, fome years ago, left a fmall liim pf money
-for the* encouragement of a fchool at Bonny*brtflge, which
is toward the weft end of this parifli.
Though populous and flouriihing fituatioQS like Falkirk
yield a decent competence for the fupport of refpoftable
ichoohnafters, yet in few fituatioiis are they poud in propoc*
tion to their ufefuloeis in fociety.
Country fchools, where the inhabitants are oeither rich
inor numerous, require at this time peculiar attention. .Pa-
riih fchools in general ought to have their lalaries increa-
fed, as every thing neceflary for the comfort and fupport
of life is rifing in value, except money, which, muft of
coorfe
qf Falkirk. 79
courfe &di lA ^roportiocl. Parifli fchook hare been the great
Durferks of tliAC general knowledge wKtcb k fo commooly
to be feiind even among the peafafkts of Scodaod \ end from
them fome of our soft illuftrioiia charaAfcrs have {pning forth*
But I am afraid, if additiooal eocoutageDaent be not fmn
given, that thofe {ources of ittiproveoieat and wifilom maft
Gmhi be abandoned to the diredion of the iUilerate. Men
of learning and abtlitj will not chuie to langnifli in obfico-'
ritjr and indigence^ but ;MriIl ieek &r employnient in fbme
•f the more Ittcratire fitnationa of civil Hfe ; and then the
DatioQ win be fireteoted from being adorned and improved
by thofe luminaries* which opportunities < of education
would hive formed and drawn out to public view.
Pocr.— ^Tbe number of perfons in this pari/b who are at
ooe time upon the poora roll, majr be eftimated at an ave*
nge at fomewhat more than 150* Thej ere fupplied with
linall foms of monej, according to their circomllances,
from 1 8. to 5 s« or 6 s. a-montb. The money which is
thut expended on the indigent of this parifh arites from
funds belonging to tlie poor, from offerings at the cburcb-
pites on days of divine (ervice, from other voluntary con«
tribotionsi and from an iffefiment which the landholdeiB
annuallj lay upon themCelves of L. I Sterling for every
L.100 Scotch of valued rent in the parifli. As many
perbns, from the nature of their property, are little or in
no degree expofed to the afTeiTmetit, there is an annual^
voluntary and liberal fubfcription in the town of Falkirk,
and in the villages of the parifli.
There is alfo in the town of Falkirk an hofpttal for the
{iipport of four aged and infirm perfons. It was founded
and endowed in 1640 by Lord Livingilon of Almond and
Callander. This deed was amplified and confirmed by hvctt
ift the year x668, after he was created Earl of Callander*
Upon
8c Statiftical A€€9unt
Upon eertain parts of the eftateswhich then belonged to hb
Lordfliip, there is fecurity given for the falfilment of the
obligatioo. Moreover, if his Lordfliip, «r any of ti^e fuc-
ceflbrs to hb eftates, (hoidd negled or refiife to fill ap an j
^racancjr in diis hofpital, it is provided by the ifiDreikid aft,
that, if thb aegleft or refofal be perfifted ii^ after notice
fliall have been given in due form to the perfon or perfbns
then poflei&ng the CaUander eftates, then the minifter of
Falkirk for the time being is authorifed to prefent a proper
objed of this charity to fill any vacancy which ihall be in
the drcamftances now delcribed. Mr Richard Callandery
then minifter of Falkirk, and his foocefifofs in that office,
were, in the above fpecified deed, made, confiitoted and ap-
pointed patrons of this hofpital, and were lawfully autho-
rifed to nominate and admit proper poor perfons to the
benefit thereof in all cafes where the faid Earl or his fiic-
ccfTors fliould refiife or iUegally delay to do their duty.
There are feveral focieties in this town and neighbonr-
hood for the fapport of the members thereof when they
are feized by fickneis, infirmity or old age ; but it is much
to be lamented, that inftitutions of this kind are not more
common and extenfive. When the labourer is in health,
he finds fufficient demands for his money, and too feldom
thinks of making a little retrenchment in his expences, in
order that he may prepare for the evil day. The Legifla-
ture have turned their attention to thofe ufeful and impor-
tant focieties, but much ftill remains to be done, in order
to infure their extenfion and fuccefs.
AgricuUurty and rural Improvemints.^^Thc land im-
mediately about the town of Falkirk is let in fmall pieces,
and produces a rent of L. a, lo s. to L. 3, 5 s. per acre,
Scotch meafure*. The Carfe £arms, upon an average,
mrf
• The Scotch acre conttins 54,760 fqaare fieec» and the ftatnteacrt
of Falkii^M. . 9i
ithij be ttMHStd at L. a an acre ; more or ItfSf according* to
tirconiftances. Good land, which is not of Carfe quality,
is %l£o let at a very high rent ; but in fome parts of the
parifli, where the foil id poo^, wet, and fpungy, the vahie
td the acre is very fmall.
In the Carfe, th^ cropis of grain and hay are fo loxoriant
Slid prodnfiive; that the farmers have but a fmall portion
of their Itfnd in pafture i and of courfe they have no more
cattle than are neceffary for the family and the farm*
The roBtation of farming in the Carfe of Falkirk confifla
in general of fix parts i Firfi, the ground is fallowed $ fe«
eondly, it is fown with wheat ; thirdly, with beans and
peafe ; fourthly, with barley ;* fifthly, it produces a crop
of grais for hay, the feeds of which had been fown the pre-
i^ing year with the barley $ and fixthly, it is fown with
oats*
The valued rent of the parifli, by which the lapd-taz^
parifli oflefiinents,' &c. are paid, is L. 131521 : 8 : 6 Scotch
money *• The rental of the pariih, about fourteen years
ago, was eftimated at L. 6,277, 9 s. Sterling ; but owing to
the improvements which have taken place fince that pe-
ried^ the rental cannot now be leis than L. 9000. Houfe-
rents are not taken into the account in either of the above
▼alnations^
Soon after the eSates of the family of Linlithgow and
€!aUandet were forfeited, they were purchafed by the
Company which undertook to raife water from the river
Thames into the York-buildings, for fupplying a part of
the city of London. The affairs of that Company having
fbon after gone into diforder, their whole eftates were fold
for the benefit df their creditors by the authority of the
Court of Seffion; and thofe of Callander and Almond
Vol. XIX. L wcr^
• A pound Scotch is twenty 'p^ce Sterling ; Uut all piynentt xa >
fkU conotiy are oow made by SurUng o&oney.
82 Siait/licai Account
ifrere booght by William *Forbe8» Efq; the prefent prqptie-
tor. ,
The whole eftates, together with fome ether fioms
which were purchafed by him aboat the lame time, a-
mounted to about 8oao Scotch a(cres; almoft 7000 <if
thefe are in this pariih. Excepting about 500 acres, it
was all arable ; but little more than 200 of it were indo-
fed. The whole farms were out of lejde, and the tenants
were all removed as foon as they could provide themfelvea
with other fituations, in order that there might be no ob-
flruAion to the intended improvements.
Almoft the whole of thefe eftates is now incloGed aad
fttbdivided. The fences are, as much as poflible, drawn at
right-angles to one another; the ridges are ftrughtenecf ;
and the wet parts are drained, or in the train of being
done with all convenient fpeed. The inclofures which are
near the town of Falkirk or the villages adjoining, contain
each from three to four Scotch acres of land ; but tl^ofe
which are in different fituations, comprehend from feven to
eight acres of the fame meafure.
About 2C0O acres, which are near die canal and in the
vicinity of Falkirk^ were limed upon the green fward, and
let to tenants for the fpace of two years, who were bound
to lay them down with grais^feeds in the lad year of their
leafe. A confiderable part of the land, which was over*
run by headi, broom and furze, was let to tenants alfo^ who
were to plough it five times. This in like manner was to
be laid down for grafs ; but in both cafes the grala-feeds
were to be provided by the proprietor, and at his ezpenoe.
Thefe improvements will not only add much to the
beauty of a diftrift already delightiul ; but* when comple-
ted, will add much to the richneis of this neighbourhood.
It is one diftinguilhing feature in the improvements of Mr
Forbesy that they are intended to be completed before he
let
qfFaHiri, - 83
I V
l^t the land in Joog leafes ; whereas it is common to carry
4m improvements after the farms are in the polTeiBon of tp*
nants.
Of Servants fVages^ Prices of Foody Wr. — A good ploughr
man gets about L. la'a-year, together with his bed and
board ; and a common female fervant expeAs from L. 3,
10 s. to L. 4 per annum^ independent of food and lodgings
A man who engages to labour bj the day, has i s. 2 d. in
fummeri and i s. in winter. During barveft the wages are
hi^er. Great quantities of graifl» efpecially barley» bean^
and peafey are fold in this market. Carfe barley is held in
fuch high eftimaciony that it brings, in general, two or three
(hillings per boll more than barley from other parts of the
coontry« During theie feveral months, the price of grain
has been extravagant ; barley has been fold at L. t : ii s,
per b(dl, wheat at L. 2 : 12 : 6, and oat-meal at x s. 4 d.
a-pcck. It is worthy of ob£ervation, that in former
times of fcarcity, the people of Scotland ; looked up to
England, as well as to foreign countries, for ftipply i
but in the prefent feafon, when the people qf Englsind are
in want, we have not only plenty within our .borders, but
have been enabled to relieve them in their neceiTity.
Markets^ 5/^.— Befides feVeral fairs in the year, and
three trjrfls •, there is a market every week on Thurfday^
At tbefe three tryfis there are, at an average, 60,000 black
cattle. As mod of them are of the fmall Highland breeds
the medium price may be £xed at L. 4 each. Thus at
tbefe meetings, it is fuppofed, L. 400,000 Sterling are put
into circplation. Not a fmall proportion of this money
pafles through the Falkirk Bank. There are alfo horfes
and flieep difpofed of at tbefe markets.
Bj
* Trjfk is a Scotch word for so appointed fflcetinf .
u
Statijlical Account
By the favour of Mr Longmoory a very accurate farmer^
I have it in my power to lay before the public a fiatcmeitt
of the prices which the Carfe wheat, barley, and oat-meal,
brought for the fpace of 40 years preceding the crop of
1794.
Prices of Kerfe Grain Jvr ^ojears preceding cr^ff 179^
Whcit^rrbolL
Barley ^*r
boU.
MtilperMl.
Crop 1754
L.o 14 0
L.O zi
8
I#.0 10 6
>7S5
0 15 10
0 14
4
0 13 8
XJ56
X 3 0
I p
Q
.0 x6 4
J757
100
p 16
8
099
1758
0 14 6
0 10
8
090
1759
0 14 6
6 zz
6
094
1760
0 16 0
0 zz
8
0 zo 4
176X
0 IS IP
P I?
9
0 Z4 0
v^^
z I 0
p Z7
0
0 Z5 Q
17*3
100
0 zo
6
0 Z2 6
1764
110
b 16
6
0 Z5 0
1765
z i 6
i 1
3
0 Z7 6
1766
I I 6
X a
0
0 t6 zo
1767
1768
120
z z
8
0 Z2 0
120
0 16
4
0 Z5 0
1769
0 18 0
0 16
8
0 Z5 0
1770
0 18 6
0 Z7
6
0 Z5 6
I77I
120
z 0
4
0 Z7 0
.177^
140
1 z
8
0 z6 zp
1773
140
z z
0
0 z6 0
, lifedium price frqm Z753 ^ I774» being ^o years,
Wheat, ^^ boll, - L.o Z9 5^
Barley, — - - o z6 zo,^
Meal, — !— - - p Z4 ZtV
Cro]
n
of Falkirk.
8J
Prices of Kerji Grain continued.
Barley per boll.
L.O 19 o
Metl pr bolU
L.O 15. o
Crop 1774 L.I z (
1775 o 19 o o
1776 o 19 o o
1777 I I o o
1778 o 19 o o
1779 o 15 0 o
1780 I I o o
1781 o 19 o o
1782 X 6 o 1
1783 I I O O I
. 1784 o 19 6 I
1785 .1 p p 9
1786 o 18 o o
1787 110 o
1780 X o 6 p
1789 X 4; o *
1790 130 o
1791 1x6. I
X792 I 2 d I
X793 Jt 4 o I X
Medium price from X773 to 1794, the kft ao jearsi
Wh^at, - L.X o 8
Barley, - - o 18 8 >
Meal, - o X5 3*
Our mailieu are well fupplied with butcher-meat of ez«
cellent quality. It ia fold by the Scotch Trone weight $
the pound of ¥^ich, as it is ufed here, is to' that of the A-
voirdupois, as 7,000 are to 10,450.
Forty years ago, not more than one heifer^ cow, or bul-
lock, together with a few Iheep and lambs, were ezpofed
to fide in the weekly market of Falkirk. As to veal, it
^ fcarcely to be found, but in the fpring. But I am ao«
thorifed
17
0
0 la
8
15
3
0 J4
8
I§
6
0 14
6
15
9
0 13
0
15
3
0 12
Q
15
3
0 J4
4
14
10
0 14
■3
6
6
0 17
6
0
6
0 18
8
I
6
0 13
4
;6
0
Q 16
Q
'9
6
0 16
0
»9
b'
0 16'
0
16
9
0 13
6
0
0-
0 17
Q
»9
0
0 16
8
%
p
0 15
3
4
0
I 0
0
0
6
e 18
0
t€ Siatifiical Account
thorifed to faj, that there h»ve not been ibid i& the fhaoi*
bles of this town, during the coar£e of the laft year, fewer
than 2000 btack cattle, (coo fiteep and lambs, and calves
in proportion.
. . Forty years ago, few of the common people were in the
habit of eating batcher-meat, except a little with their
greens in winter. This fcadty portion they £dted about
Martinmas, and confequently, about that leafon of the year,
more but6her<»meat than common was brought into the
market. But now all defcriptions of the people are more
in the pradice of eating animfcd food* ^
It appears from Dalrymple's Annafa of. Scotland, that
the price of a hen in X295 i^as only one penny ; but now
one that is well fed will coft fifteen or eighteen pence.
Forty years ago, the price of butcher 'meat in this mar-
ket w^ only about ^d. per pound \ but now it .is from 4 d*
to6d. or 7d. \
Forty years a^o there wese but 3 fprge^ns in the town
of FaQurk \ but at pcefent there is x phyficjan, 5 furgeons,
and 1 druggifts.
About 60 yeamagatbi$to><^ And neighbonrbood were
chiefly fupplied with wheaten bread from Edinburgh and
Linlithgow. There were then only 3 bakors in Falkirk,
and they were but eccafionally employed. Hence it is,
that the people in the remote parts of the country, when
they come to procure bf e^d for feafls or fim^rdfl, do flill
■enquire of the bakers if their ovens be heated.
There are now 18 bakers in the town, of Falkirk, and 6
in the different villages within the parifli. Tb ^ make ex-
cellefU breadi and the price js regulated by the Edinbargh
aiBze. .
At the period .above alluded to there wese not nKnre
.fhan.acx) boib of wheat /€r<2jiMMBrin reduced into flour for
1^ ufi| of the Falkirk bakers. It was ground in common
mills,
^/Falkirk. «7 \
milf, «ad boolted by hand-fieves. Now, about 7005 bolh
are made ufe of anouallj j it is ground in mills, which ar^
made for the pnrpofe of preparing flour ; it is boulted^ and
the dtfierent kinds feparated hj machinery, which is con-
firuAed according to the lateft improvements. Seven of
thefe mills are within a few miles of the town.
Forty years ago there were but a grocers in Falkirk ;
they complained of little bufinefs, and one of them was
alfo a tallow-chandler. They had all their grocery goods
from Borrowftounnefi, and imported nothing themfelves.
We have now aa in that line of bufineis ; fome of them
carry on an eztenfive trade, both in wholefale and retail^
and import wine, lie. from foreign partsu
It appears, that in the reign of Charlemagne, there was
but one clock in Europe, and it was fent to him by Ab-
dalla King of jPerfia *. How different is the fituation of
arts and improvements now, when there are four clock and
watchmakers in the town of Falkirk itfelf !
There are two lodges of free-mafons in Fitlkirk. One
of them is fo ancient, that it is marked No. z8. in the
books of the Grand Lodge. The lodge of Carron alfo
meets in a houfe within the precinds of this parifli.
Falkirk was formerly a burgh of regality, and I have
now before me a burge&ticket, iigned by one of the Earls
of Linlttbgow and Callander. I find no veftiges of any
magiftrates which have been invefted with the powers of
the burgh, except the baUiff of barony, who, in former
times, before the hereditary jurifdiAions were taken away,
had ao eztenfive jurifdidion both in criminal and civil
caies* We^have $ill a baron-bailie, who is nominated
by the lord of the manor. But the power of life and death
11 not now attached to any barony. He can, within the
bounds of his jurifdifiion, enforce the payment of rents to
any
• Anirew't HiftMf of Gntt Brittis. toL i . p. It.
Statijlkal Accomt
toy amount, tod decide in difputes about money affili^
provided the fum do not exceed L.i Sterling. Thb
debtor's goods may be diftrained for payment, and, if noC
fufficient, he may be imprifoned for one month. He cao^
for fmall ofiences, fine to the amount of ao s. and put de-
linquents into the ftocks in the day -time for the fpaoe of
diree hours.
We ftand moth in need of a police-bill for r^gnlatiag- the
aflfairs of the town,- and making thofe improvements which
the date of its mcreafed population requires. Much to tha
honour of the people, it m^ be mentioned, that though*
^^ere is no place of confinement m the county nearer than
Stirling, which i^ eleven mile9 diftant, yet there are few
inftanccs of riot or diforder. It has been oblerved, that a
coafiderable part of the bufinels which comes before the
Court at the StirUnglhire af&zes, iSc. proceeds from this
qnarter of the diftrifi ; but it ought alio tq be attended to,
fhat the population of Falkirk, and three or four miles
round it, bears a great proportion to that of the whole
county.
A coofiderable part of tbofe alloniibing improvements,
ivhich, within thefe 40 years, have been made in this pa^
riih, and in the adjoining country, has been owing to the
great canal, which is cut from the frith of Forth 10 the ri-
ver Clyde. As Scotland is almoft cut into two parts by
the frith and river, which have juft been mentioned, as
idea was formed as early as the reign of Charles II. of open*
ing a communication between the eall and weft feas through
the medium of a canal. In 1723, a furvey of the intended
track was taken by Mr Gordon, who is well knoWb as the
author of the '* Itinerarium Septentrionale," In the
year 176a, Mr Mackell, at the expence of Lord Napier,^
took another furvey of the projeded canal* and gave alfo
an eftimate of the money which would be neceflary to
carry
0/ Falkirk. «9
<frrj the defign into execution. Mr Mackeirs report at-
traAed the attention of the Board of Trafiees appointed for
tiie Encouragement of the Fifheries and Manu&Anres of
Scotland ; end at their xeqneft, Mr Smeaton in like man-
ner took the bufinefii under his coafideradon, and gave in
an cftinute of the expence.
After varioos attempts, a bill was fanflioned by Parlia*
■lent, which gave powers for rai&ig a ftock of 1500 fliares
finr the pnrpoie of making a canal between the Forth and
Clydie. Each fliare was to confift of L. 1 00, and the whole
capital wocdd tbns amonnt to L. z 50,000*
On the loth of July 1768 this great work was begun
«nder the direAion of Mr Smeatoo. The operadons com*
nimcfd at the eaft end, and die late Sir Laurence Dundaa
«f Kerle, Baronet, cut and removed die firft fpadefbl of
earth which was taken from the canal. The fpade is jet
kept in Kerle hotde in memory of diat traniadioBy wluch
was the beginnmg of -an undertaking, great in the defigUf
and diificnlt in the esecudon ; but happy in its eftdsi and
Skely to be nf uafpeakable advantage to fiicoeeding gene-
/
On the zoth of July 1775, ^ ^^^ ^^^ fit for naviga-
tion as fiv weft as Stockingfield, which is widiin a few
mika of Glargow, About two years afterwards a fide
bfUttch was cut, by which vefiels could go ftill nearer Glaf-
gow, and a baibn, together with granaries, and other build*
ings, were piepared. By this dme the Company's public
fimds were exhaufted 1 fiar the making of canab being then
in its iafim^ in Britain, the manner of doing the bufinefii
in the eafieft way was not underftood, and confequendy
die work was canied on at a much greater ea:pence than it
coold be done for now^ although the value of labour is much
inoealed.
V0L.XIZ. M The
99* Statijlic^ Account
Tbe canal fcmaifltd » this languifluag and iwiiiifligd
ft»fee» till by the aflifltfice of Gov^nuneat* the namatrTa
W^re enabled %o be^ their oferaciooa again ia July 1786.
The work ^as.cooduded by ]M[c Rohcn WhUwoitb* and
odft the 38cb of Jttlj X79Q^ the nanrigatiqa-fr^iOL fioLtoIiea.
was opened. When, by the intervention pC the. caoaL ^
connnmnicarion betweea the eaftern and laeftecn iieaa was
completed^ the event waa fignalized by the ^karaaeriilic
oereroony of poujing % hogibead fidl of the water of the
£ritb of Forth into the river Clyde % amidft tkn Ibontai and
approbation of an ailoniihed mnltixude*
When wje oonlidec the oovehty gf . the nn<knaking|. and
the difficulty of tb» jentecpviie^ we flnU not be forpnied to
fiod^tbat it was %t years ^Ind 18 daya ia heisg finiihrd,
The eanal in its courfe paflies through fnarfhr% and oirtr
xlversi tivuUtSt and reads* There, ia a con£deiabIn ayie*
daft bridge, which conveys it over the. Glafgow and Stir*
ling r(md» a little to the weftward of Falkirk. But the
moft macoificent is that haning four aichea^ wbinh conduda
it over the river Kelvin, where the valley in which it mns
is 400 feet wide, and the depth from the fummit of the
middle arebc4 to (he channel of the river is ni#rc thaA 65
feet. y(s
The fide cut, which has already been meocionnd^waa
carried CorwaiHl to within haU a mile of Glafgow. Largci
and more commodious bafons* were made ; neccflary build-
iogs were erected ^ there is. land to be lold Car building a
village, and the pkce is called Port Dondas, in hoaow of
X4ord Dundas. Frpm this, port these ifra.jnndio»aiade with
the Monl^d .Canals which is a .{mail cut ronning i %
miles into the country on the eaft o^ GlaigoWi Sar the par-
poie of conveying coals into that city,
Ihi
9 Edinburgh Af sgwrine for ApiE x 793.
ThelengA of fl^e gncttt canri is 35 miles ; the callatefd
«ft «o GMgb\9 al ; an4 theic 4ipom Pert DundaB to the
Mtmklftad CmmiI, t mMe ; in vAtoitj 38^ miles. This cs-
cenfit^ trade <if a cttial it iwpplied with water I^ fix r^tet^
iFons, wbidi «e^«r aboat 409 acpes of latkl, and contain
aboat 12.679 Iock-{i0l8'«f water ^ and the Cwk^pany faa;vfc
it m their pa^er ta iiicr%afe the awober of f^fervoirt..
The fbrntait <rf Ylbe canal is 141 ¥eet abatre the kvel of
tlia fisa *. The numher ^ef the locks k ao en the edl, and
19 cB 'the weft. The lev^th it the focfes batwaen tlw gataa
is 74 feet, vnd the width beftween the wafls 20 feet. Tha
medinm brcaddi ft the canal at the fnrfece i^ 56 feet, attd
•t ^e bottom 17. Veffeb of ^o or 90 tons, propedy
cooftruded, may be navigated through, and are fit fef
voyagea
a Tbe fmnant o( Ae canmX fms at 4rft but 140 Icct. Dae foot in
height wM afterwards added to all the lock-gates, <whirh has made ibine
people cooclade, that at 90 Locks are on the eaft, the ibmrnit moft !now
be 160 feet. But thoogh the water throughout the canal be one foot
it, Tet die fbamnt is only raifed ta inches. l*he firft btk from the
\ now rlOTittTeBcU 8 feet; but the idcreaftd height of tbu lodt
caiicJtbe water on the nejtt one toot; thus tbe upper gau of the id lock»
which was 7 feet above the level of the water on the lower fide, is redu-
ced to 6 feet, and confequently, when a foot is added to its hei|^t, it onlj,
ma formerly, raifes the veflel 7 feet The fkmt thmg happens to the €bird
lodk, and lb on throagk the "whole ; and when you arrive at tbe fumnit,
tbe boat is only one foot higher than h would have been before the addi*
tioo was made to tbe gates, and this foot was gained at the firft lock*
The ctrcumftance of there being 10 locks on the eaft fide of the fum*
Bdt» and only 19 on fbe weft, may be accounted for as follows i^^n the
Mft, the cvnai tefaiiiiaMs in the Gnmgebaro, where tfaoie it £> Jictte
^vatet; lbat<fbe vedbls^ie left neavly dry at d>b tide; wbcreasoa the
iMft, it ends in the Clyde, where the water is 8 (act d^ep without tha^
iMlp of the tide, and thus one lock U faved.
Hie revenue fifing fromibe caoal was vnnusUy .iocreafing 'firom the'
aoauaeaetoiant till 2792 , wbdu tk ■meimied (to iboot L. •X4400o. By the
ftifaation oftiade in 1793, it did not reech L.'t«,ooo; but ia 1794, it
wasibmewbat more than L. 11,000.
Oovenunent haw ihtres in this canal to the eitent oft .50,030.
g% ' Stat0kat ActwuU
▼oytges by fea« The tonnage dues tre 9 d. pit tm €nxf
mile, with fome exceptions, lefpefting Kme, &c. Tlie dt-
itdibn of the canal is under a Governor, Coonoil in Loo*
don, and a Committee at Gla%ow, who meet mootfdy.
iThej. are chofen annually, by a general meeting, irtiich ia
held in London every month of March*
The extenfive tiade carried on tttfOogh- thii eanal log*
gefted to Sir Lawrenoe Doodas the propriety of boilding a
village and qnay near the call end of it on hb own eflate.
The place which he fixed opon fior this pnrpo& was the
«ngle which ia formed by the jonAion of the river Carroo
and the canal. They were begon to be hoik in the year
1777 ; the vilkgjs is now of confiderable extent, and ia call*
ed Grangemouth.
Veflels bring into this port timber and hemp, deals, flas^
and iron, from the Baltic, Norway, and Sweden, and grain
from foreign markets, as well as from die coafia of Scot-
land and England. The trade to London is carried on by
the Carron Shipping Company, who in their vefleb con«
vcy to that place goods which are made at Carron^ together
with other arddes of commerce; and when^ they letoni,
they bring grocery goods, dye-ftofi, ftx. for the fiipply of
Glafgow, Faifley, Greenock, Falkirk,. Stirling, and many
of the inland towns of the weft country.
The tonnage at this port is,, at a medium, nearly as fol«
lows : VeflUs belon^g to England, which bring cargoes
from foreign places, about 5000 tons annually ; ditto, from
England, which carry on a coaftiog trade, about 4000 tons
annually } thofe belonging to Scotland, which are employed
in foreign traffic, about zo,ooo tons annually ; thofe which
carry on the coafting trade are about 9000 tons annually r
the Carron Shipping Company require about 9360 tons ;
the vefTels belonging to foreign nations, which come anno*
>lly to Grangemouth^ may be eftimafd in their tonnaga
^ Falkirk^ ^ ^
atiooo. Great quantities of herrings made their tppt^tm
■nee hft winter in the frith of Forth, and many of them
were canght at the very mouth of the river Carron. Moro
than 110 fiul from Greenock, Rothfaj, Stranraer, &c«
came through the canal to filb» and they returned home*
wards with foil cargoes^
At (kangemouth, there is great need of additional
warehoofes and ihades. But what fa moft of all wanted is
n cttftomboule, or branch thereof. Borrowftounnets ha*
▼iag till of late been the principal place of trade in this
aeighboorhood, a cuftonyioule was eftabUflied there, and
fnfficient attention has not yet been paid to the fituation of
Grangemouth. . Thofe at this port, who have bufinefi to
do in the cuftomhoufe, are obliged to- travel to Borrow-
ftowmefa, which is eight miles diftant ^ and when the river
Avon is not fordable, they are under the neceiSty of going
ffoondby linlithgow-bridge^ which lengthens the jjoumey
fimr miles.
Bot the Carron iron-works have in a peculiar manner
tended to improve this town and neighbourhood. They
are fituated on the northern banks of the river Carron;
and thoo^ they are not in this parilh, yet many of the
workmen live in it, and as they are not two miles from the
town of Falkirk, the (hops and markets thereof are gene-^
rally reforted to by thofe who are employed in the various
operations of that extenfive manu&Aure.
The Carron Company have a charter for employing a
a^tal of L 150,000. It is divided ipto 600 ihares, and
no perfon can have a vote in the management, unleis he be
pofleiled of ten (hares. Thefe works were firft pro|efie4
and eaabliihed by Dr Roebuck, and MelTrs Cadell and
Garbet. They were joined by other gentlemen of refpec* '
taUlity^ and the Company are o^w in a very flouriihing
^onditiony.'
'5H Stati/Rcttl Acc^kni
conlfdon. Tht ^oiltd ^^re \mdtt ibe immedfatte ffiieflRm
of Mr Jofeph StaintdD, who b sdfo a parctier.
They are Tiipplied t^th iron-^re 4<im Lancdhire and
Caitiberhnd ; mA with inniftone from Bamon, Denny,
and Bc^nyliiBy Sccinthis Tkitilty, and ftam the roomy
of Fife, &c. They have limeftone from fiomtifland. Set.
and coals from Kinnaxrd, Catroti-liall, and ShieMhiU. All
the materials, which are made nfe of ftt theft woiks are
brought to them by water-carriage, except Cbals, and tfaefe
are found in tbeir neighbourhood. At an average tbey
ufe 800 tons of coal, 400 tons of iron fione and ore, and 1 00
tons o'f limeftone per week. The inmftone is firft calcined
in an open "fire ; "but the iron-ore needs no preparation in
order to be fie for the blaft furnace.
There are £ve fomace^ of this delcriptioh, which are
fupplied with ftrong currents of air from caft iron cylinders,
inftettfl of bellows. Thefe cylinders are conftmfted fame-
what like forcing pumps, and are not only more durable
than beTIows, but have more power, and produce a better
efieft. They have three cupolas, which receive -a proper
fupply of air by means of pipes conneifted with ihe forcing
cylinders. ^There are alfo fifteen furnaces, which are kept
in aftion by the eictem^l atr, without the aid of any arti-
ficial blaft.
At Carron all kin& of caft iron goods are made in the
beft manner. A fliort kind of cannon called Carronad^
were invented there ; and, in certain fituations, they are
confidered as of great importance. They are moved in
.grooves ; and thus the increafed fiiftien mt>re effeAuallJr.
oppofes the force of the recoil. The caliber of the cannon is
bored out of the folid metal, and thus the hole is mon
fmodth and juft in its diredion, than when caft with a corty
and the piece is tels ready to burft in time of aftion. The
outfide
., 4>f Falkirk.- 95
tmtfick of the cannpn is, tusnr&b; pco^ J9flcaiiu»tif,aad
the whole is not on}^ ofac« hot; ^bfUnti^l* , . , .
At thefe works b»r ifon js. allp.auidb; 9ti^in.9a:oa)^
pliihiD^that bufiaelsy thefoUowingoi^iW is puclued^ . .
The pig iron is^^i^lted in a. fioprj^. ^hcro col^e i^ f^k
while hott it is beaten out into plates about an inch in
tfaickncls. Thefe.phues aie^4|a:x;^aKd^.b;f0kkfiiriD(afpeces
about two inches iquarey for. thf coaysm^^cA of (qpuring
themi &c. They are the a flowed ii^ an iro^ QyMs^tVf
which is conneOed with the wace£«wji|efly avc^ wIk^ thej
are properly prepared by this operation, they are put into
pots, which are made of firo elay^ aiid: ittaft mfr-fbtnace
they are brought to a weUiajgheai v '^ this t^M of pre*
paration they aca pal ander the haauBei!, audi wfoaght into
blooms; the blooms are haatad.ia .a..chaSBty, aa hollow
Sstt and then drawn into bars for various ufes. In thb
condition the iron is equal in goodneis to that which is im-
ported from Raffia under the name of new lable iron.
The machinery is moved by the water of the river Cac-
ron, and for a fupply in time of droughty they hava a f^
fervoir to the exteat of about 30 acres. But as this pre-
caotioD is not enough in very dry feafonsi they have more-
over an engine for throwing back the water, that it may ha
ufcd again, and this en^e raiCcs 4 tons evciy ftreke» aad
snakes about 7 ftrokes in a minute. If we take into tlie
aecouBty akmg with the people who are direftly employed
in the manafaJhire at Carron, thofe alfo who are engaged
in the mines and pits, together with thofe whoc^nry mat^
rials to the works, and goods by fea and otherwife imme^
diaiely £ram thett, we may efttmate the whole at aoo0
people.
Nobody is admitted to view the works on Sondays^ e»>
c^t thole who are. properly recommended, or knawa ta
be worthy of attention. Mr Boms, the Aytlhire poet,
% not
0 StnHjlkal ACC99M
Mt kDOwiogf or txk attending to this regulation, male am
attempt to be admitted, withont dilcovering who he waa^
Imt was refiifed bj the porter. Upon returning to the ina
atCamm, he witte the following lines npon a pane oC
da& in • window of the parlovr into which he naaihown :
We eam na here to view yonr wark%
in hopes to be mair wife :
But oolj, left we gang to hell,
it may be na fniprife.
fiot when we tsrl'd at your door,
jovr porter dooght na bear ns ;
So nuj, ihould we to heU*s yetu com%
your billj Satan fair us*«
RitiutrtUUb
o WtlUua FnlUitoii, £% of Fnllaitra, ia 4ke eoaalsr of Ayr, KorA
BritiiD, hu obtained b patent for makiof caft and anaUeable iion after •
new oMthod. He cakioet the irm ftone or ore, if it be naoeflkry, ledn-
cei k €0 powder, boltt it, feparatet tbe eztrancoos matter, and tfiea pata
it into a fanacc, aloo^ with a faCcient ^anttty of coke, or cbareoaL
The furnace it intended to aA ai a crucible ; and the OMtaU whea foad,
is not to be drawn off, and caft into pigt, but it to reanin as a loop at tbe
liottMB. Whea it it taken out thence, it does not require to be melted
•gain, but after being baaled aBay» without any other prooefi, be beatea
iatoban.
The principal advantigeSf which appear to attend the awthod pro*
pofed by Mr Fnllarton mnft arife from his manner of preparing the
iron ftone or ore, and from tpermitttng the metal to cool gradually in
dM Aurnaoe | to which amy be added the removing of the flag, which ho
takes cere to do while the fuiaon is going forward. From the fpecifica*
Jtion which he has girca, it foems u if pulveriing the iron ftone or ofu»
«id freeing it of eatraneous matter, precludes the necelBty, and ikvas the
czpence of ufing Limeftoue u a flus ; and cooling the metal gmdnally,
fcareats that brittleaels which caft iron end fteel poflels when they are
tfooledoBafttddaa; and tfans the loop is in f bettar ftale of pitparatioa
|pr bfing put yader the haauaer.
if FaOtirL 97
Rimarialle Evmts.^^liimrgaartt, commonly called by hi*
fiorians the Maiden of Norway^ died at Orkney, on her
way to Britain, where Ihe was to have been crowned fiic*
ctSfit to her grandfather Alexander IIL of Scotland. Upon
her death there was much agitation in the kingdom, and
many competitors fprang up for the Crown. But of all
diofe who laid in their claims, the rights of Robert Bmce
and John Balliol * appeared to be moft worthy of invefti*
gation and fupport. On the fide of one or other of tfaefb
opponents were the people of Scotland generaUy arranged*
As the conteft was violent, and not likely to be brought to
a fpeedy ifliie, it was refolved to fubmit the whole bufi*
ncfs to the decifion of Edward I. of England. He accept*
«! of the offer with much pleaibre, and took that opporta*
aity
Bat ifl£a\\j andeHUnd t&e fpecificstkxi* Mr FnlUfton*! method moft
Ix iabjedl to frvenl inconvcnienciet. Either the famace muft be Terf
UuU, or it will he difficult to remove the regului ifter it has remttnell
theic till it be cold, eod the work mnft faffer an intemxpdon by waiting
fc loaf bdbce a new charge ean be pot in. In order to obviate theft
iaconvenienciet, it might be proper to draw off the metal in the fluid ftate,
and havbg cail it into pifi of the nfiial formi put them while hot into a
famace, ezpofed to a well regvlated heat» and feffered gradaallj to be-
come ceoL
▲ gentleman, who was taken by the French daring the laft American
war, having efinped from priibn, was travelling homeward, aad on his
way* 10 psHing through a valley among the Pyrenean Donntaint, came to
a UomU forge, where fome men were making irop from the ore. They
fifed it, and having mized it with charcoal, put it by fmall quantities at
• time into a furnace. They let it remain till k was duly fafed. Then thej
pBt a bar 'of iron among the metal, to which a knob adhered, and when
it had ac^ttd a proper confiftency, they beat it with a hammer^ re-
peating the operation, till, in a fhort time, they had made a bar of confi-
derable length. This method is recommended by its fimplicity, and per-
luips it may fnggeft fomothing for the improvement of makiag bar-iron
IB this country.
# Formerly called Robert de Bms, and John de Balliol.
Vox.. XIX. N
9t Statyiical Account
nit J of can{mfidn» tmcertaintji and teller^ io hate biisfclf
proclaimed Lord Paramount of Scotland ; aod finding Bal-
liol not n&wiUing to acknowledge this fupremacy, he de>
dded the conteft in his favour. But Edward Cdoo horkd
him from the throne* under the pretence that he had oo^
put the feeptre into hia hands to be fwajed in truft. The
troops of the Eoglilh monarch loon over-ran many of the
moft important diftrids of this kingdom ; and in trinmph
carried to Weftminfler the ftone of Scooci which was made
fomewhat in the form of a chair, in which the Kings of
Scotland had been in ufe to be feated at the time of their
coronation*
In this feafon of national deje&ion and difmay. appeared
William Wallace, of an ancient, but at that time aa ob>
fcure family *• He lifted up the flandard of liberty, and
many flocked around the fignal. Rut fiill there were not
a few, who through envy or fear would not join the pa«
triots. But Wallace and his adherents prevailed. They
fought and were fucceisful. They drove the Engliih be-
yond the borders, and entered the countries in the north of
Edward's kingdom.
When the King of England was informed of thefe events,
he returned from the continent where he had been with an
army ; and marching into Scotland, he advanced with vie*
torious bands through that country, meeting with little re*
fiftance till he came to Falkirk.
Having come within view of the Scotch army, they faw
them drawn up in battle array, fomewhat more than half
a mile north from Falkirk. Before this time many peHbns
of eminence and power had joined the party of Wallace.
Of thofe who were prefent with him on the occafion now
under
« Of EMerflie, in the coQfiry of Renfrew, which wm prohahly t£ that
time a part of LanarkUiire. Dalrynple's Annaiii vol. t, p. tS6.
of Falkirk. 95
voder revieir, the following names are the chief of thoie
whicfc have been preferve4 on record : John ComyDi c^
Coming, of Badenoch, the younger ; Sir John Stewart of
Bonkili, and n6t of Bate, as tradition has handed it down.
This gentleman was brother to the Steward of Scotland,
firom whom the-fimame of Stewart, or Stuart, was taken.
To thefe we mnft add Sir John Graham * of Abercorn or
Dnndaff ; and Macduff, the uncle of the Earl of Fife f •
Wallace had arranged his infantrj in four bodies, of a
Gircttlar form, with the convex fide toward the enemy ; the
archers formed a line between the circles ; and the cavalry
were placed at a little diflance in the rear. The ftrength
of Edward's army confifted of cavalry, which >vere drawn
up in three lines «, and the third, which wa^ int^pded to be
kept as a corps of referve, was commanded by the king
falmiel£ Nothing being (aid of ikc manner in which the
£n|^ifli io&ntry were difpofed, Sve are naturally led to
believe, that they were not nnmerons.
A morais, which was in front of the Scotdi army, bat
is now drained by the canal, prevented the troops of Ed-
ward from attacking the Scotch in front ; but wheeling to
the right and left, they .flanked them on both fides, and
tihe carnage was dreadfd. Struck with a panic by the fall
of Graham, Stewart, and Macduff, and prefled by the well
appointed cavalry of England, they were compelled, after
a brave refiftance, to abandon the conflid, and leave the
Tidory in the hands of Edward.
Sir John Graham and Sir Jojbn Stewart were both buried
in the church-yard of Falkirk. The ftone which was. laid
aa the grave of Sir John Graham had forae fculptnre upon
it, which the hand of time was faft obliterating. At length
another
e Cenenlly called in old recordi, Sir John de Graham.
f Datiymple^s Annals of Scotland*
io« Statiftieal Accouftt
Uit/Sktt Sone w«s ereAed with decorations, ind «a epittplH
the whole being fapported bjr piUan. When the letten
«f the infcription were nearly defiM:ed, another of a fiailar
kind was pat over it \ and when it alfo had fitiered confi-
deraUj hj the lapfe of time, the hte William Graham of
Airtb, Efq; eroded a third, after the lame manner at the
two former. The infcriptioos are as follow :
Mcate ■MBnqvc poteBs» Vallc Sd«« Acliates»
Cooditiir hk GnuBiu» bello intcrfe^ns ab Aaslis.
zzii. Jalii^ tiino zi^f.
Heir Ijet Sir John tlMr Oimne, Mth wisliC lad mikt
Aae of the chie6 who refcewit Scotland thrift*
Ane better knight not to the world was lent,
Kor was gnde Qrame of tnith and hcrdiment*
Not far from the tomb of Sir John Graham lie the afliea
of Sir John Stewart. The place of his reft is but a few feet
from the eaft end of the church, and near the fonth comec
of it. Though Sir John was nearlj allied to the progeni-
tors of the honfe of Stuart, whoTe kindred blood flows in
the veins of manj illuftrious families of Great Britain, and
aHb in not few of the princes and potentates of the earth,
jet his grave is not nsarked out, except bj a flone withoat
a name, and is the fegment of an oAagon.
Much has been bid with refpeft to difcontents, which are
rcprefented as having fubiifted among the leaders of the
Scotch army on the eve of the battle. The peevifli de-
parture of the well-tried patriots, Wallace and Cuming,
cannot be received but upon the moft authentic documents.
Jarrings might have prevailed among a ntimber of leaders,
where the fubordination of regular government was not
obferved ; but from the charafter of the men, and the cir-
oumftanccs of the cafe, no fault feems to have been com*
mitted»
^/Falkirk. aot
mkled^ which was either £%noefiil to themfelFeSy oriiiut-
"M to the iflise of the daij ••
In the reign of Charles I. the Earl of Lanark, who was
afttrwmrds the 2d Duke of Hamikon, together with a per^
fiaii of the name of Monro, being frien^lj to the King, at«
tncked with dieir troops, near Stirling, the arroj which
had been ratfed by the Marquis of Argjte, and the £ar&
of Caffilis, Eglitttonn, and Loudon. Hie former were re-
poUed, and fled to Falkirk ; but a temporary aooomiiioda»*>
tion fiopt for a time the eflSifion of homan blood.
In the battle of Dunbar, Cromwell was fuoce&fid, and
lie marched forward to gire Charles IL battle, who was
> encamped with his army at the Torwood in this neighhoar-
iMod, and had'dien been proclaimed King of Scotland. On
bis route, Cromwell ftormed, and took Callander honft,
where Charles had a garrifon.
The Earl of Arran, when Governor of ScothAd, did,
with the confent of his party, agree to. give Mary, the
young Queen of Scots, in marriage to Prince Edfvjsrd, > the
. beir to the Englifh throne. But having at Callander hoafe
met with Cardinal Beaton and the Earl of Murray, leaders'
of the oppofite' party, a negociation was entered into,
vHiich broke the matrimonial treaty. ...
It appean, that Mary Queen of Sco^ vifited Lord Li*
Tingfton at Callander hoofe, anno 1565 f .
In the year 1745*, when the troops of Great Britain were
in Fknders fi^porting the houfeof Anftria againft the arms
of France, the grandfon of James IL who, at the revolutidn
in this country, had taken refuge at the Court of Verfaitks,
aflcrted his father's pretenfions to the throne of thefe king-
doms. This meafiire was, without doubt, agreeable to the
Ffeoeh
e^OftlrympU's Aaoils of Scotland, voh. i. ptges a^a. and a^3«, ,^,
t .$taart*9 Hiftorj of Scotland, vol. i. p. 98.
Stalf/Ucal Juount
JTflcAdi Court, ash waold Midentljr he di« mtaa of with^
drawing our forces from the contiiiest. Fevliapi it wa
cvnr fi^ellcd bj thdm ; and we know that dicj gswe %^
finall ibpply of naonej and arms.
CliarkSt floflied with the hapcs of power, eminence, and
foyakj, &tled from a port in Brittany on the 15th of
Joljr, and in a fliort time landed in the Highlands of Scot*
land. There he laRantly drew together a confidcrabla
<€mmfaef of pardzaos, and marched ditefily to Edinburgh.
He got pofleiEon of the town of Edinburgh, lodged in the
yabce of Holyroodhoofc, and (boa afterwatds engaged at
VkeikoB, near MttflUhnrgh, a few of the King's troops, who
wave Qoder the command of Sir John Copew Here he was
widorioos; and in the anxious ezpedation of fiitore fuboeft,
,inardied into England, as fu* as Derbj, by the waj of
Carliflc. Though be had many friends near the road by
^tvbich he went, yet prudence permitted but a iEsw of them
io follow his fortune*
Difiippobted in he views, he returned by Glaigow,
inarched to Stlriiog, end hid fiege to the oafile. By this
time a icenfiderable number of the King's troops were af-
Itaibled near Edinburgh, eonunanded by licmenantrOeae-
ral Hawley* He marched for the relief of Stirling; and
havii^ ftopped to mfrefli the troops at Fdkirkt he encamped
with them between the glebe and the fidd wheie Sir John
Graham fell in defence of liberty and his country*
On tha 17th of January 1746 the alarm was given, that
the Prince's followers were advancing by the Torwood.
By different means they attempted to deoeive die army of
the King, They left a flandard at the place where they
had halted on their way from Bannockbum, which, being
fcen at Falkirk, would, they fuppofed, hufii their opponents
into a temporary fecurity. They alfo fent a fmaU detach*
meat by the north fide of the river Camm, that it might
appear,
ofFalkiri. foj
•ppeVy if there was aaj alatniy diat tbfly inletidod to •!)►
tack the King's camp on the left; bat^ ia the meas tioM^
the principal body of their forces were led findght finv
ward, and croiTed the ford of Carroni ^ DunipaiDei abovt
the diftance of three miles to the weftward*
No fooaer was this difbovei^ than the drtans at' Fab
k&rk camp beat to battle. But the Ocneral not being pcc^
fenty they were detained fo long before, his aniyal».duit' th^
eneny had gained an eminence, which is about a oifeibiith*
weft from this town. The way thither being mgg^ dMi
cnonon conld not be dragged up time eaoagh for the )u>^
tion ; fwampy ground rendered the cavalry almoft* niblefil
smd a tremendous ftorm of wind and rain .blowing direfijj
againft the fiice of the natiooal troops, added to tho mifbfw
tnnate drcumftaaces of the day. Notwithftaodiag the
bravery of Major-General Hnik, and other officers, 06$
King's forces were worfted ; many were killed, federal W>
tun prifoners, and the reft fled to linlitbgow*
Among the perfoos of rank who were left dead oQ tlla
field were Sir Robert Monro of Foulis, Bart* and his bro^
Cher Duncan, a phyfician* Sir Robert, in the retreat^ wat
fsToonded by the enemy, and after a defperate refiflanec^
yiekled to the ftroke of death. The phyfician, from the
affetton which he had for his brother, left the peace $md
fweets of retired life^ and followed him through the din cf
arms, and the dangesa of battle. In tbe'dilcharg^ of thb
amiable office, he foil a viAim to kindnefs and brotherly
attachment. They were buried befide each odier in the
ehurch-yard of Falkirk ; a fuperb monument was ereded
to their memory ; and the circumllances of ditir death are
recorded by fottable infcripdons. The nnthber' of foiceli
Which were led to aAion that day was about 6eo6 of the
royal party, and perhaps fomewhat more of thofe in the
^ ... ' jBvcfes
XQ4 Staiiftkal Aepount
mteftft of cM Princei botthe true mmaiitit of his trooptfaas
not been exafflj sfeeftamed.
Hawlej foDod means to vindtcate himielf to bis Sove-
taign^.bnt the iiB]»reffions of hiscondod which remain
here» are by no means finToorable to his charaAer, as a Ge*
naial entmftcd with an imjtortant command. If we credit
f^ortf he was dining that daj at Callander houfe with
Lady Kilmanocky whofe Lord had then declared bimfelf
in fiivoor of di^ young adventurer, and was at that time
•Anally engaged in his fervices fomewhere in the ifland.
The aAion began aboat 3 o'clock in the afternoon, and
hy the evening the Prince's army were in pofieflioa of the
town of Falkirk. One of the fons of Macdooell of Glen*
gafy,' when walking in the principal ftreet, foon after he
had arrived from the field of battle, was fliot from a win*^
doMr by a muiket-buliet. He did not tnfiantly die ; but
Inrring langaiflied a few dajrs, he expired. His death was
accidental, for it wasoccafioned by one of hu own men,
whole gnn had miffed fire during the engagement, and not
being ^>priied of this circumftance, while he was cleaning
his piece, the fliot went off at the expence of a life, which
he would have done much to iave. Bnt fnch was the vio-
lence, Keal and difiruft which prevailed, that he was found
guilty, and ihot in this neighbourhood. Soon after the
battk of Falkirk, the Prince's troops weie vanquiihed and
difperfed at CuUoden. Thus tranquillity was reAored to
the nation ; and we tmft, that the horrors of civil war wiU
never again pt evail in the land.
, Emmtm Q9d RtmorkilUif CbaraSiers.'^Tht livingfioos
wece long oonipicuoos and powerful in this pari(h and
a^^bourhood. It is foppofed that they are of Hongariao
c^traffion, and that the fiunily fprung fi'om a gentleman of
tbo Mine of Uvingos, who came with Market, Qaeen of
King
tf Falkirk. ID5-
King Mtlcolm G«fiai(»e» Mwut the year 1075. We find,
Aat diftrest branches ^f -this taaxiilj were employed ift
Smdc of the moft important fituations and tran&diona ojf
t}iiacoiiitti7*.
Is. the psegrels of {bdety theie ar ofe among them the
three diftingpiiflied fami&ie9 of linlitfagowi C^afli4eri an4
Kilfyth. The Vilcoimt KiUytb, and the Earl of JLiniith-
gow end Callaader, were found guilty of rebeHioft in 17159
bad their eftatea confifcated, and their titles Wetted. Th^
titles of Linlithgow and Callasder at this time centered in
the &me perfon, and the Earl found means to efcape to the
eoQtincsty whoie he died. ^\t Thomas Livingfton of Bed*
lermie and WeAqnarter^ Baronet, is li«eal heir of 'the fa*
naily.
Lady Ann, the only furviving child of the laft Eail of
Lmlslbgow and CaUander» was' married to the Earl of Kil-
mnmock,' who joined the followers of the Prince in the
year i745» and was beheaded for treaf6n on TowerhiU, qn
Ihe 18th of. Aiiguft 1746, in the 4ad year of his age. Hia
infidelity to the King is the more remarkable, as hb &mily
had always been loyal^- and as he himfelf, at the beginning
of die commotions in which he afterwarib was an abettor^
had eiKrted himlelf confiderably in behalf ^ the reigning
fivnily*
. The truth feems to be»thatas be was not in opidcBJt.ciff-
cansAaacesy'he was induced, to become an adventurer; and
from hia marriage-con|ie£Hon, he was in hopes tbit^ if the
Prince ittcceededt he woald be railed to the poffeflions an4
perhaps to the honours of the for£eited and .deceafed Earl
of lialithgow and Callander. And thu leads me to ob-
ferre, that it is politic in a flate to iofliA as few permanent
diiabilities and ponUhments as the nature of governmcQt^
Vol. XIX. O ai>4
# Dottgltt*! Peerage, articlei Liolitbgow, GalUndefi tod Kilf;4.
1 06 StatiJHcal jfccount
and good order wiV permk. If a loma fUkt jA ^UKa
to the hW| the gaNing remembreiiGe m gradiuillj ddhojud
among hia oonnofti^iM «mI defctndents; bttt if aa cAate be
forfeited, or a civil privilege be permaneiitlj tdwa awaj,
thtrre is a perpetual broodbg o^rche miaftiffmcy aadfraai
tbis fotirce there often fprmgs die bitaeniels of ftrife.
Oar Government have, with aiiicb pnideace and hnma*
nity, reftored the eftatei whicb were ooflMnttcd in 1746}
and it is moch lo be lamentedyibac fanethbg efeAaal baa
not been <tpvifiM) for tbe hein of diofe who foCwwI by the
ferfetnires in the year 1716. Tbe aftntea bcriag bona
otherwffe loag ago difpoled of^ coaM not be teftoiaif bai
the trifdom oFtbofe in powori among tbe amaj refoumi
vhicb they hare, might perbapa find ont the meana of 0
leaft a fmaR eompeafation.
The leftate of ^erfa, in this parift, oooe beloogad «a cba
Hopes, a fcmilj of eoafiderable aote and aattqahy in tbb
eountry. John de Hope wa^ one of the berana who firi^
niitted to Edward L of Eaglkad ia 1396, wboo bo hadia-
iraded Scotland.
Kerfe, as well aa many other eftatea in SooAiaif ^^cnm
pnrchafed by Sir Thomaa HopOi who» aa ea advaeatei
jaade a confpicnona ngnre*
In the revolutionary period of the Scotch cfaofthf fit
mbiftera^ who had denied that the King had «Ay power in
*jiMxlefiaftteaI'aAir», were committed to tbe eaAk of Bfaick-
Aeis, an4 fer hightreafon were brofight to trial at Liiriith-
gtyw, Jan. to. 1606. No cdaafel)or of eminen6e, not even
Sir Thomas Chiig, the procatator fer the ehorcb, eonid be
prevailed upon to ftaxid forward as theilr advocate at the
bar of the Court. Mr Thomas Hope, for he was not then
created a baronet, undertook, though bat a young man, to
pkad their caufe. His feicible elocution^ hia ingenioos,
thoiigh
qfJMtirL 107
(hds^ onlbeeefiU exertioiM, {wocvrel Jbim i4fniraUQ8^
iMd braa^t him iato notice*
Be WW aoc oolj cmifidtisd in ail dificiik osfes by chp
Brdbjrteriaiis, but was efteemed by the Court party, au4'
wiiKMg*s Advoeaoe, both ii the reign of JameB VI. and
Charles L He liad three fbns, who were I«orck ef Sei&on,
and two of them fat upon the Bench as Judges, while be
hkofelf was at the bar. The Lord Advocate has ja right
te|dead wkh his hat an« aod tradition fays» that f this priyi*
lege waaiotrodneed in the ttm^ of Sir ThooaaA Hope* aa it
was llioDght unbeoomittg the deputy ef a father in his fi-
taalaaa to plead with his head nncovered before his bo»*
Bnt it is more probable, chat the cofioB was iotroduccd
as a dtftiiigiiifliing mark of refpeft to the ling's Advocatt.
Sk Tliomas^ his fecoad fon, to wheai he gave the eflate
of Kerfe, was eminent in the law, and, I believe^ the o^
eommoner who erer has been Lord Juftice^General of
Scotland } as his firther, Sir Thomas of Ciaigbaii in Fi£e«
was Ae only porfon dot hooowed wi&h a title of nobility,
who at nay time, in the eharaAer of Lord High .Commif-
fiaoer, reprefented his itijefty in the General AffemUy
ef ibis chnach. The eiaie of Kerfii was iatd foosetioie
ago to cho litte Sir Laorenoe Ikmdas, Baronet, £Either of
Laid Dnndas, the pioiant proprietor.
AMfmtut^-*ia die barony of Seabeg;i, near the canal,
Aere ia an astifieial mound q£ earth, where courts and de-
libaratiire councils were formerly held^ as appears by the
tane ICoie, which the place ^et retains. There is alfu a
finall bvsying ground, wheio farmerly there was a Roman
Catholic chapel.
In different parts <tf this neighbourhood there have been
dog up urns, filled with aflies, and ftooe coffins, containing
human bones. Somewhat more than twenty years ago,
there
168 Staji/Ucid Jceount
Aere wm fomid, in a hoUow of a fireefloee ^Mny near
Caftlecary, feme wheatt which had become YAadk^ and waa
feppoiied to hare been there, from the tiaia that the Ko*
tnans poflcfled that ftatioiK
The. fmall river Bonnej, which fiepaiatai a piit of this
parifli fiom Deooj and Duntpaoei feens to he the GiOBan
ofOffian.
Old Camekm ^ not Camitodamim^ hot prabahly Bml^i
Gmidif appears to have been fiarmerly a place of coofe-
quence. There are now few veftiges of it remainiiig ; bat
not loi^ ago» foundations of honles, and the direAioa of
feme of the ftieets, were vifiUe. Moch hat been find abont
•the iniportaaoe which it once had $ we have heard of die
riches and ornaments of royaltj which were feond diere,
when it was taken by the Roifians* Bat we have no an-
thentic docnments by which we can decide whether it was
a habitation of fome of the ancient tribes of North JBritaint
or whether it was only a Roman fiation.
It is alfo reported, that CanKlon was a fea*port town i *
and in confirmation of diii we are toU^ that an an^or
was formerly dng np t in the grooad near it. Thera aie
circmaflances whidnauthorife ns to conclude, not only that
the river Carron has been navigable farther up than the
place where Camelon ftood, bnt aUb^ that the fea dDme
very near Falkirk, and covered the whole of that diftrid
which is now caHed the Carfe. The name Carfe in Scot-
land b generally applied to that land which has been fcrm-
' ed by the retreat or czclufion of the fea. Our carfe lands
are very little raifed abovs^he level of the .firiih of Fwch,
and in many places are defended by banks %• The Carfe,
whiah
a A new TtlUge in its neigbbearhood it ca>l«l Camdim.
f Sibbald*t Hiftorical £nqoirics, chap. 7.
I A few dijT^^aot in-.tbe morning of O^ober 30. a tide bring uncom*
mooly higU t^ banks were overflowed by cbe 2ca^ and the water not only
entorrd many houfcs, but inundated faveral hundred acres of the Carfe land.
. ^ FaOarh. tgxf
wbidris.veiyTftlDalikmqaalitj, fluigbt eaflly be eakigr^
fafeacrpodiiiig&rdicrcNi.the iea. Lord Dundas, hgribb
metbod, has lately added abost 70 acre$ to hk eOttt.
About the beginning of thi^ centorjr, a SotchmilBv wlHi
im welLaoqnaiAted with operadoos. like thefc' in Holtond^
propobd to the Duke of Hamilrop to gain for himaooo
acies off the fea* adjoining his eftste rf.Kinneali in the.p^
rifii of Borrowftonnnefs, provided he Ihoiild be adiowed |»
poflfefe it rent free £or forty yeai^ and be iuraiihe^ with
timber^ &c« bom die Dnke's wood in the neighbourhoofL
The propofid was rejeded ; and the iea continnes to r«^
lis odes over thofe ihaUoWs, where fhiit&l f elds n^ight
now hsTie heeh yiddiag.an annoal income of £.4000. or
L5000 to the ' proprietor, and a confiderable qofuitity of
pnmfioos for the fnpply of this populous part of the
ooQOtry*
But the moft prominent foMnre of antiquity in-tfajs pa*
rifli is the Roman wall built in the reiign oftfae Emperor
Antoninus Ku% nnder the dire&ictn of his. lieutenant Lol-
fim Urbkns, It in general follows the track where Agc|«
cobhadpreTioaflyeredsd.a dwia of ioyts*. It.is more
than x6oo yeass finer the wall.WfBibuiJl^ and.yct in leve-
ral parts, both in this parilh and elfewhere, its form Hi)d
cottife.nm vtfiUe: }$, c^tendsjirDintbe fx^itb of Forth to
the^ver Clyde, and was: about 40 Roo^ani or 37 Engliih
miles in leo^. Cansden, .Kinneal, ai(d Blpickneis, on the
eaftfDnmgho.and.i01d Ktrkpatrick op the weft, have, \^j
difcient people, /bce{><i9gge0ed as i)^ boundaries; fiede
fays, that it began two miles firom the monafiery of Aber-
com, and ended at Alcluith, which appears to be the (ame
place which is now called Dumbarton *. If the wall tcr»
miaated
• Ca«4e&*s Britanqii b^ G««sb, article Lennoi.
lie Simytkal jSccouni
MiiMtidMOId Kirii^iiriek, Dumbactai wm praUlyt
fbtt tekngiog to die Komois} oad «nt know, tlwt on tte
4ift4XMfttlwir£ii«inid flnMift wese earned hx beyond
HiecadofcbewfiU^
lliia wall, or rather dcAofiM woricy'cewfifted of « ditch
<m ihe nerthy dbd a waU oq the foutb. It varies at to the
hxeflMi of the dkA ; but 10 aeter lefr than ti or 15 feet
tride, aod the wall was aJboot la.foet thiek at the finnda-
tion t« The dic«h 'tras deep in profortkn to ka hnaadtfa ;
aad the wall wat hi^ 4a propottioD to ks wtddi. Not-
wkhftandkig'what has beea fidd by fime amfaora, no part
tf thia wal ^pMrt to have beea baik of fieacv ezoq>c la
fwwaupy places,. where «(he aatore of the gnwnd leqnifcd
It. Fort! or AatiMi, aad betweeo cbefe, toraeii or watob.
towefsy *were ^efoAed f<w the acconfliodatioa of feUaen to
defend it} aiftd as thej were at no great difiance ffom ene
aaolSienm general alsroi eiMiId begkren at tbe approach of
danger. Hence the valgar belief thai <he wall was hollow,
and thatthefauadofatroaBpet whieh was blowa at oae
eadcooM be heard at the other. Cafllecarj, fiaaghaaftk,
and Cameloni were the bmA reaiarkabfe forts or ffadons ia
thb nei^hboarboodw Theficeaf ikeSwofDraveraieililliD
befeen.
Mncfa I^ht has been tteowa oa ike hiBorj of this wall
bjftones with inferiptiotiSy which ihave basa dag fxf in ▼&•
rioQS parts of k. A coafiderablo namber of thefe ftoaes
are in the Cronege of<}lafgow»'&io. $ ^oae ia Sir John Clerk's
colledion, atad 'one ki Gallaader ho«rfe, with the fcBoanag
infcriptioA:
VtXI
LEG XX
PRIMIO •
Froor
a Sibbald's Enqoiries.
t The ditch in dnandcr park ii above fd ftet wide ; is (bmc otiwr
places it is not fo mach by half.
4f Falkirk. |i«
Ffom4MirdiS«ROtft<me»iti|{lp09if8, tktt; the ^n^ uras
chief/ made by the ad end aofb legions, fu\4 ;he veziUa<»
dflos of the 6)1 and ftoib, tofe(her wilb a cobqet of awn]^
liancft *• Every laodth pact of a legioii wee failed a een-
tnry* aod had a veziUam, or pair . of ooloun. To guard
tbefey ten of ibe heft ibUieis were allotted for each vexil*
faifla, and tbofe gffud^f which in ev«ry legion amouated to
looo ipen» were called ita vexiUatipo.
Thia vaoBpart is denominated by Bocbaaan» in his Hi-
flory of Scodaod, the wall of Sevenia. Other writers have
nUd gftven it the iiuiie name \ but thoogh it may have been
MpMTed by Severus, as it was by diiFerent people, yet the
imsU which he biiik was not in this diftrift of the coootryp
but was drawn between the Solway frith and Newcafilf^
■cflidy ia the iiune direftion-in wbich Adrian had formerly
boikhia.
The wall of Antoninns- is generally known in this counii
try by the na^w of Grs^anofs Dike. Some are of opinion^
that it derived tbU naase-from a powerfiil leader of that
nnme^ who bveke throng thas&mous line of defence^ and
ffontcd the Britooaon the footh.fide of it, who were then
nbondoned by the Roopmum. OtheiB aflkm^ that in the
imga of Mak^e^lL one Gryme^ who was cooneded with
Ae royal family, afpiring to the throne, drew together
fome followers, and in order to fettle the commotion, the
pretender got a grant for the term of his life of all that .
part of Malcdm's kingdom which was on the north fide of
the wall, and that the line of feparation was from thb event
^lled Gryme'a Dike i hence, by an eafy trsnfition, Gra-
ham's Dike. It has alio been ft^gefted, that as the build-
ing of this wall has been attributed to Severus, lb by tranf-
latbg Sevems into |ji|^fli, yoa have Grim j and in a
countiy
t Beai/t Hiiloix of Orett Britain,
tit StoH/KenfAceoufU
eoantry' where the iiHiaiiie oFOrthaiB is fo'comoMiii a$ it
is here/ it' "wib very natnAI to find the appeHation Grim's
W^, 6Dit^erted into Orafaam's D jke *. The name it&lf
b of little conftquenee, but the wall ia a ftriking moini*
inent of Roman aAivicy.
The foldien of the Roman empire were not aDowed to
be enervated by idknefi; They wcreconftantlj employed,
and often engaged in fevere manual labonr. Not oply the
walls which have been takeh notice of^ bat alfio the various
foads which they made in Great Britain are clear proo6»
that they were called forth to exertion, and kept in afiive
life. Along the fondi fide of Grriiam's Dyke, a canleway
was formed for the more expeditions and comibrtable tra-
velling of the foldiers from one part of it to another.
Nearly oppofite to Crilander hoofei an earthen wall of
confiderable height and thicknels branches off from Gra-
ham's S)yke, mns throu^ Weft-qnarterhoufe garden, and
reaches die old caftle of Almond. From diat toward the
eafti there are few or no certain traces of it to be feen ; bnt
we may prefume, that it oftce ended at LinKtiigow, where
there was a Roman camp, on the very place where the
King's palace was afterwards boilt. This vnjl has noibflk,
and being broad at the top, was probably intended to he a
road, as well as a line of defence.
• Dyke in the Scotch Ungaage laeans t wall.
Vbt rtaier is requefiid to mai^ iU Jalhmng torrtBiom m
my SMifiicai AccowU o/MU^CaUer, Vol. XJV.i
Page 3(4. ihu 7. for clothes feai cloaks.
— 371. -^ 1. for emperor read ufarpec.
•-^ 37a. -» 5. in tbenote^for refcue read xoalr*
Tbf
fbe following correBions and additions to the SttOiJiicat
Account of the farijb qfPolmpnt (vol. III. p. 344*^ aro
beri infcrttd^ at the reqnejl of the Rev, Mr William Finlof t
The puUh of Poimont is not ittUrfeded, but bounded by the frith of
ftrtbt on the north, and hj the river Avon on the eaft. A fmall part of it
h ioteife^ed bj tijbori mt from Onrngemouth, which is now die only
navigibk comnmnication betwixt the great canal and the Forth. Ths
iron ftooe isXold by the proprieton of land to the Canon Company, not at
tapenupfrftofte, bat at tenpenee per ton. tlie annual amount of thi
foods lor relief Of te poor u ndt L. a8, but about L. 55, and the ezpendi-
ture nearly Ae fiune. By an uiterlocotor of the Teind Court, June 1793,
tiie ffipend of this parish is ordained to be iii bolls, 1 firlots, i peck, and
1 lippies of bear, $6 bolls of mea], and L. z 5% : 10 : 10 Scots money, witb
L.69 n»Aey fbrefiud fat fumifhing the commanion-«teiiKntf. The rf$X
rent of the panfli ia..atail L. 4000 StttUpg^ t
VouXIX. f KUMC.
m^ Staiiflitql AtCMM
NUMBER IIL
PARISH or ROXBURGH^
(CpuvTT or KozBUEGB, Stuod or VUtXE £Jm TWEU-
DALE, PftsaaTf sftT or Kxuo.)
By tbi Rev. Mr Andrew Bell, Mimfier ^tht Farifif.
A I.
PREVIOUS to the Union of the Scotch and Engliih Par-
liaments, this corner of the land was often the feat of
war, and the unhappy fcene of broils and feuds, which
ufually ftigmatize the border inhabitants of two hoOile
kingdoms in a barbarous age. Roxburgh was the refidence
and rendezvous of fome of the greatell military, political,
clerical and Royal charaders Europe has to boaft of, and
the place where ilate councils were held with a fplendour
and
tfSiaxhirgi. 115
Ecenoe becoftiilig' Ae disMty «f ^BtmWie9w in
^ihofe decern mMiy aatioiis fidt diemfelves hi^y mt^
jcAed and eoncimMd. Hiroqe cbi» parilb affords greflt
room Car snvcAigatiom aad «peM a field, wh4;ffoon the hi-
floiic geniiu might range with (lecaliar graliiGailioiu The
Crilowiog remarks however, bebg iaieaded to make part
«f a work, wbofe objefi la^a/fjiCjiMi/ rather tha» bijimimi
^aqpkjf the J are cbiefl j limked to }ocal aad exiAiog cit^
csmfiances*
Nmt,^^l^ika all etymolopcal interpretations of the
■ames of {daces, the meaning of this is eatremdj vague
aad mcortaio. Camden calls the. cafUe of Roxburgh Mar<»
MduMf or the hill on the matches, aUudiog» tiot to the alr
titode or fize, but to the ftrength and importance of that
fiMtreb. Some nomendators faj, that Roxbttrgb is a Gon*>
trafiioa fi>r Rogne's Burgh, referriag to the charafter of its
andeot inhabitants, when marauding was the trade of aU
the borderers. Others affirm, that Roxburgh is the pcoper
name, and derived from a Saxoo word, fimr, ^nifjing
llrcogth : And others iofift, that Rofeburgh (as it is vul*
garljr defigned) is the proper appellatioa of this fdacei
being moft czprellive of its beautiful fituatson.
Situation. — ^The old city of Ro^iburgh Hood over againft
Kelfo, on a rifing ground at the wef! end of a fertile plain,
peninfulated by the confluence of the rivers Tweed and
Tcvtot. Thefe fong-renownccf rivers flow here in all their
glorj ; but the Teviot has decidedly the preference, when
imagination calls up to view the grand aflfemblage of ofa-
jeds that formerly lined her banks in this place. On
the fouth angle of a beautiful peninfulated traA of land,
formed by the curviturcs of the two rivers, Is* a rich
fpot.
XiiS Siatifikat Aceauni
fy^ of grodody where David I, boik a mtgnifieent
Iriarj for fome Ciftertiaa monkft whom he removed
from Selkirk to Roxburgh ; on the middle ftood the town,
both under cover from the Caillei ^ich was fitualed on a
large oblong knoll to the weft, and feparated from the dtj
hj a narrow neck of land, formed by the proximity of the
rivers. ^ The fouth walk of the Caftk impended over cho
^ Tevioti a part of whofe waters were direded by a dam
** thrown obliqaely acrofs the ftream at the weft end of the
*' CaiUe into a deep fofle, which defended the fortrels oo
^* the weft and north, emptying itfelf into the river, at the
H eaft end thereof ^/' Over this moat, at th^ gateway
from the town, was thrown a draw-bridge, the remains of
which were but lately removed. About two miles weft
from the Caftle ftands the prefent village of Roxbargh,
plea&ntly fitoated near the banks of the Teviot, oo a dcr
clivity of fonthem expofure. It is divided by a (mall rir
vulet into the " Upper and Nether Towns," which had
formerly been of confiderable extent, though they now con^
tain only about 200 inhabitants. This village b the feat
of the parochial church ; is nearly centrical to the whole
parifti 9 lies in the county which bears its name, and within
the bounds of the Prelbytery of Kelfo, and Synod of Merie
and Teviotdalq.
Extent^ Hurfacef and So//.— The parifli extends about
9 miles in length, and 4 in breadth at the extremities, in*
eluding an areapf 7000 acres of land. Its figure is irregular,
^nd may be reprefented by a fpread eagle, with his head
towards the north, his wings fhadowing eaftward and weft-
v^rd. The general appearance of the country is flat and
floping. The foil is moftly m rich loam, well calculated
for bearing turnips or wheat : The A^nds are therefore very
valuab]f,
f Pfnnant.
iff Roxhurgh. iij
irtliiaUe, but rftther onpleafaiu to laboofy being ianfy in
fome places. The iktrts of the parifli on the weft and footh
are mooriih* A great part of that trad of land which lies
between the rivets, efpecially about the viUage, u fo ftonj,
that tradition reports it to have been once all covered with
houiiBS. In very few placesi however, have the ftones any
appearance of having ever been ufed in building. The
grounds on the eait end of the parifb, and thofe on the fouth
fide of the Tcviot, iu-e inclofed with ditch and hedge. The
fences, being in general grown np, and ornamented with
hedge-rows of trees; befides, various woods, and little
thicketii or clumps of wood, reared upon, unarable knolb
and rocky hillocks in feveral parts, make the country look
rich and beautiful. The parifh is bounded by Maxton,
Ancmm, and Crailtng, on the weft ; by C railing and Eck-
ford, on the fouth ^ by Kelfo, on the eaft } by a part of
l^elfo and Makerfton, on the norths
Agrieubure^'-^Tht greateft part of this pariOi is in a vtrj
high ftate of cultivation, and yields an ample reward to the
occupiers for their toil and expence in labour. Whether
lying in pafture or in tillage, the fields every where around
difplay the remarkable adivity, agricultural fpirit, and ikill
of the farmers. Equal in all kinds of huftandry within their
fpheretoany inthekingdom,the landholders and farmers here
aie particularly attentive to the cultivation of potatoes, and,
being favoured by the nature of the foil, have carried it
to a very high degree of perfedion. Three hundred fir-
lots pfT acre is a frequent produce. They are planted in
drills, the diftance between each plant fometimes about
three feet, and are completely cleaned of weeds by frequent
hoeing \ the firft and fecond time very deep, with a fliarp
pointed hoe, afterwards not fo deep, left the root fliocdd Bft
injured. About thp time pf their blooming, the earth is laid
up,
liB ShatyHca Account
up, focnetunet in die ibria of a flMkhiIl» tboot eadi Ststk^
ivhich is a gmt iioproTcmcnt. la dus way ti saoagc-
meiit tbc ground is well cleaBod» and afterwards yiekb a
good crop of wheat or oats. The potatoes axe phnfeed oa
light dry laod, either Batorally richt or node lb with dcmg.
lim^ is found hurtfalt by aaaking them grow /eabb§dm la
order to prevent their degcncra^i the feed is csr^dly
picked, and fuch as grow corlcd leaves axe kept oot if pof-
fible. Though a rotation of crops is generally obferved
here, by raifing one green and two whiter yet fiome of the
iarmers, diftingniihcd for flcill in and attention to bofinefi,
are often direded by the Ceafims, and the various fisil of
their lands.
Hence the number of acres occupied by diftinft fpecies
of crops can ardly be a&ertaiaed. It is fuppoCed that one
half of the whole parifli is girnerally in paflurc ; the other
half in tillage \ and om:*third of that kid down annually
with grais- feeds, the ground being always firft properly
cleaned and prq>ared for tiicm. The pariAi reaia a great
deal more grain of all kinds than the inhabitants ufe, and .
the catde bred or fattened within its bounds are not half,
fcarcely the third part, cpnfumed there. Upwards of 50
ploughs are employed in the partfli, axid drawn generally
with two hories. Oxen are alfo ufed, and found to aafwer
the purpofes of huibandry, both in the cart and plough.
Po^ftfftoip^— Vediges of villages, malt fteeps, cottages,
and other memorials of inbabitatioB in various parrs of the
parifli, indicate the popaladon to have been formerly very
confiderable ; but no exaft lift of old date having fallen into
my haAds, the number cannot be alcertained £ar back.
Agreeably to a praAice recommended and gene];^ly oh*
ferved in the Church of Scodand, the writer, upon hb in*
fluxion to this cure^ vifited every family within its bounds,
I and
^^ Roxburgh. ii^
tnl fmoA the Oftttber of ibab i& tlie paijfli to be upwards
of 1050.
A very accurate lift was again made out at the defire of
the Sheriff of the county, in r782» to aflift in providing
a|ajoft a fcaroity, with which this country was then threat*
enedi and the number of fouls was found to be iioo*
They do not at pre&iit exceed 900 *, and may be ^UftdU
bated thus :
Of the £ftabli(bcd Church, 480
Burghers, Antiburghers, and ReEef
Secedeis, - -170
Cameronians and Quakers, « 9
Childrca, ~ - 241
._C Males,
5**® 1 Females,
3«o
540
191
Lotters, • •
t2I
Minds and nerds.
23
Haadieraftfinett, *
43
Apprentioes to thefe,
7
Servants,
7Mafcs,
60
46
Fanaers,
aa .
nentors, * • ,
xo
The great difproportion between the inales and females
feems to arife from a number of cot-hou(es being pofTtiTed
bj women, wfaofe buifiiandd or iioii^ are' eitij^oyed elfe*
where. . ' m- -■ ■'- • '- '-" '0 ' '' ''•^^ « '^^ ' ^-^
According
' • * ; fc » ,' • ... V ; "I'M ^t ' . ' ^- <'* •rtibj.n 2..T *
• Since this lift was uKen in 1 79^t^ BW*^^ A?VirfW>W:Wnj .
*wdsof6o.
ifto Siaif/lufal Account
Accordiag lo tbe parifli-regifler •« there has been, widi*
in tbe time included between the ift of Odober 1783 and
the ift of Odober 17939
Marmges, ^- • 76
K«^ - ■ '«5SX ?l
The exad number of births and burials cannot be cafilj
afcertained* For various rcafons many childrens names are
not regiftered; and the people in general all over this
countrj having an idea of property in their family buiy*
ing place^ carry their dead there ; and by negle&ing to do
fO| they feem to feel themfelves guilty, not only of viola-
ting a natural propenfity in men to deep with their fiathers,
but alfo of infringing a facred obligation, as they &y, fanc-
tioned by the example of patriarchs* at the cave in the field
; of Macpelah* In articles of population* an account of the
ages of different claffes of perfons have been thought ex-
pedient and ufeful. This the writer has been obliged to
omity except with regard to children, who neither fear nor
bluili to cell their age ; and thofe who glory in " prattling
** o'er the tales of other years." The children mentioned
above are under 10 years of age ; of the other venerable
dafsy there are 15 upwards of 70, nine upwards of So, thsee
above 90, and one near 100 years old. During the late
incumbent's miniftry here, a woman died at Faimington
about the age of xao.
State <(f tht Popr.'^hl prefent there are 24 upon tbe
poors iroll i the monthly affeffmeot for fupporting theiJB,
including
• Tliis reacba as far back u xtfiS ; is ramaifcablf tegolltf, tudhss oftoR
been* proof itfibe titiUtj of fndi recorii. -
of Roxburgh i Hi
including collefior and clerk's fees, is L.6:4:4, levied,
one half from the heritors, and the other half from the te^^
nants, according to their real and valued rents refpedivcly.
Meetings for condufting the aifairs of the poor here ard
held twice a-year ; the tenants are always invited by the
minifter from the pulpit to attend on thefe occafions for
alGfting the heritors and kirk-feffion * in that work ; and
the allowance of each pauper is generttlly fixed according
to the report of the kirk-fefCon, or tenant under whom hd
lives, as to his circumftances. By this means improper ap-
plications for public charity are checked ; the truly indi-
gent fiirni{hed with a good mode of obtabing relief; and
to the generous, a plan is opened for giving alms without
danger of impofitionl It is painful, indeed, t(5 fee parents,
worn out with the toil and cafe of rearing a family, fome-
times applying for public aid i' while the very childreA
they have nourilhed and brought Up, will not give a mit6
to relieve th^ir difttefi. The public, (ky'they, is obliged
to do it. This is the apology many tn^ke for negleding
to obey one of the firft laws of nature, )vhile they frequent-
ly lavifli away a confiderable part of their earnings upon
the vanities of life. On* this account fome have thought
there (hould be no law to force public charity, unlefs
to oblige fuch as are in ability to fdpport their indr-
gent relations, efpecially children their parents. Alas \ if
filial or brotherly affe£Kon cannot melt the heart, 1 rod of
iron, it is to be feared, would be ufed \tl vain to bt^ak it.
In order to keep the number of poor on the lift from inr-
crealing beyond proper bounds, and to prevent the modcft
and well-defervln^ from fufferin^ want, the colleftions
Vol. XIX. QL 'made
• HertterK, or hndltolders, Jind t1i<? klrk-fcffion in a parUh» arc the lega$
tneoibcn of diefc m^edog*. . In «fleffiiig for the poor, l^owevcr, th^ aid ai
the farmcn is highly proi)cr.
222 Siatiflical Accouni
made in the ktrk ve diftributed among nee^j perfoasi ooC
on the poors roll ; and in cafes of incidental polrertj, an
interim fupplj is given. The heritors fometimes lodge
money in tbe^ hands of the fefliony to diflribute as they fee
proper. This is attended with great advantages i evils
often occurring that cannot be provided againft by the ge*
neral meeting, and the coUedions in the church being
{carcely adequate to the claims ufually made upon them,
fiich as the fchool- wages of poor fcbolars, Ste.
State of the Church and ScbooL-^vee minifters have
been ordained here fince the Revolution, vi%* MefTrs Dat-
gliefli, Brown, PoJlock, Hogg, and the pre&nt incumbent.
The firft of thefe was excluded 6901 his charge at the Re*
volution, and returned to it afterwards ; but the benefice
being too imall to fupport his suimerous family, he was
obliged to betake himfelfj to^^ome other employment, and
leave this cure» much regretted by the people. Mr Brown
was removed from his kirk in the year 1715 ^ and had it
not been for the compaf&on and humanity of a Noble
Counteis, he had felt all the diftre& naturally (befalling
fuch as are driven from a particular Jine of life, to which
alone they have been educated. Though a man of no
fliining abilities, and greatly deScient in that difcemment
and prudence neceflary to fleer the helm of condud in a
politic age, yet we feel for Mr Brown, retiring, in exile, to
a remote valley, where^ he lived for years in a cottage on
the fide of a rivulet, (by Cefsford), tending his milk-cow, tx
delving his. garden — ^his only livelihood, and the gift of
cbari^. The ground of proceis againft Mr Brown is- iaid
to have been a charge of difloyalty, which a^e chiefly
from his drinking the Pretender's health at Kelfo, in com-
pany with the rebel army. This, it it faid, he did with no ill
intention, but fimply thinking thereby to pleafe Mackintc^,
the rebel cfftnmanderi and thus recover a horlie the rebels
^ hai
of Roxburgh. 12^
hfld ftelea firodi him. Mr Pollock lived iM>t long to profc*
cnte (be remarkable (uccefs w^tb wbicb his miniflry was .
•Ctended in this parith. Defigned by Providence to in-'
ftmft a mde race of men, he was endowed with many qua-
Itfications reqnifite for that important talk. A robuft con-
ftitutton, and a bold impetuous temper ; unwearied atten-
tion to the care of his paiftoral office ; and a rigid ezecu-
tioQ of difcipline ; a competent, ihare of Tarious erudition,
and very confiderable powers of addreis, procured him the
lalling memorial of having turned many from datkneis to
light. Scarcely above one in a family, befoi^ his days,
having 'been taught to [read here, under his tuition the
youths not only obtained the elements of ufeful knowledge
at fchooly but were obliged tq commit the principles of re-
Kgion and morality, as^ recommended by the confticution
of tlHs kbgdom, carefully to memory, and repeat them
pabHcIy at diurch, which gave early and falutary ideas of
civil and (acred virtues chat the lapfe of time has not en-
tirely wiped away. His few fiirviving difeiples talk of
tbefe things with delight ; and difcover the mingled fenfa-
tioQs df joy and tricmbling, while they fpeak of the great
oaken Jlick wherewith Mr Pollock always walked, over-
awing' Che ittfoleht ; or the engaging means by which he
enconraged the timid and deferving. Mr Hogg was a na-
tive of the ^arifl), and wore out his days in ferving this
cure witfl much efteem, refped, and ufefuhiefs. He died
on the 3d day of Febrnary 1781, in the 46th year of his
tninifiry, and was fucceeded \j the prefent incumbent in
the month of November following.. The church was built
in the year 1752 ; was the firft modem houfe of that kind
in this comer of the country ; is in good repair, ncit and
commodioufly fitted up for holding the people. Though
plain and fimple in its conftrudion, the prefent church
forms a ilriking contrafi to the old one here, and ihows how
diffsrently
1 24 Statiftical Account
diiTerentlj men in isixicient and modem tiw^es tfaink of plft*
ces iiueft for devotional e^ceroifes. Agreeably, as it woaI4
feeniy to the old idea, that the {pirit of devotion likes beft
to dwell in gloomj retx:eats, the kirk at Roxburgh was al-
jDoil wholly un^er ground, roofed with a ftroog arch, and
totally overgrown wKh grafs. The people entered to the
place of public woribip through ;ui aifle * of the fiMne coor
jftruflion, and delcended by fix or feven fteps into the body
of the cburqh, (perhaps the particular conftniSion of tha(
edifice had been intended as 9 kind of fecority to the wor-
.ihippers in times of perfepudon and. danger). T)ie roaoie
has been rebuilt during the prefcnt minifter's incumbency,
and might be dejcmed a good one,, did not the v^j da^p
jituation repder it both particularly uncomfortable and tm-
healthful to live in. The heritors have already been at
confiderable e^ptnce in repairing it, by renewing the
ground-floor, tbrpwing drains round the houfe, &c. bat all
jfeems, as yet, an ineffedual remedy of an evil that might
eafily have been prevented at firfi. It is furely the interefi
as well as the duty of all who arc bound by }aw to fumilh
accommodations to perfons in public, cbafaftcrs, not only
to contrad with tradefmen, but alfo to fee the work done
in a plape and form that may render it mpft durably com-
fortable. The Quke of Roxburgh is the undoubted pa-
tron of this ]l\t]^. The ftipend is L. 73 : 3 ; 4, including
communion-elemeqts, and L. i, 10 s. Sterling in lieu of
turf>calUng. A decre^ of modification paflfed the 3d day
of March 1790, augmented faid ftipend by a grant of four
chalders qf oat-me^, but the locality is not yet fettled,
i^racUces qf thi^ Ifind are not only vxsry much againft a mi-
pifter's iniereft,, bpt often prove alfo extremely hurtful to
« heritors,
» Tliis aide is llill remaining, anci is the family bnrj?ng-plact oelonging
if> Sunlaws. • '
of^Roxburgbk X2$
heritorsy.on whom the greateil £hare,o£ftipeiids finally falls.
The law indeed autborifcs a miniftcr to uplift his whojc
iiiodi6ed ftipeod^ mstil locked, from any proprietor, who
has fofficient teinds within the: parifli^ This, however,
thoogh ftridly legal, is generally thought an ungracious
ftep, IS difficult to render effeAual, and is feldom or never
followed, unle& qeceQity u^g^.; The glebe is of confider-
able extent, but not including a. grafs^glebe, nor has the
minifier any thing in ^eu thereof that . he knows of, has
bcei^ all indofed and much improven at the prefent incum*
bent's fole expeoce. But being rnaturally of a wet, cold
bottom, and interfcfted by a very dcftrua'jvc rivulet, it
will require conftant attention to keep: the fences in re*-
pair, and the land in any tolerable date of culture or fruit-
^ulnels. The miniver's garden is now very good, and his
oflioe-houfesare iuitable, had their &ua^pn b^en dry. — ^Xhe
number .of fcholars attending the psgroohial fchool is gene-
rally about 30 in fummer, and 40 in winter. The .fcfaool-
mailer's falaxy is L. xoo Scotch, and ai darg of turf caft on
Roxburgh moor, according, to ufe an4 wont. ' Belides hiji
legal ialary, he has feveral little perquifites, iiich as xo s.
per annum as precentor and feflion-clerk j ao s. J^er annurfi
as heritors clerk ; for each proclamation .of b^nns, i s. ; for
every regiftration of baptifm, 6d»; and 4Td« for each te-
fiimonial of moral charader ; thefe arq here given by the
authority of the kirk-fe£Qon. The fchool-wages arc x s.
per quarter for readbg -, i s. '6 d. for writing ; and % s. for
arithmetic. Befides the parochial, there are twofchools in
this pariflb, which acc6mmodate children who live at a di-
ftange from the village. The falary of the mailers of thefe
twp febpols is given by their employers. It is much to be
willed that country fchoolmafters had more liberal appoint-
Aents. The Duke of Roxburgh, whofe attention to all
ijjfhpublip ipfti^utions deferves the higheft praifc, has aug-
mented
1^6 * Siutijikal Actount
tniented to the legal vhimum^ vis. L* xob SeoticA, the fiiiool*
mailer's falarjr heir, md I befieve of dll the {choolanflen
where he has zuj cDOtetn. Tfoej'are ffil'lhit a poor ni*
dfacement tot men of gebios or leaming» iti this entcrpri-
ling age, to undergo the drudgery of that itiolV nfcfiil office.
At tfaefe humble {emtnaries, the miMson^inthis country re-
ceive die nidimenti of dvil iMid modrl diarader; and the
prxactples children iinbibe there, often direft^tbe wliole Te«
nor of their future life. Unlefs the depravity of the wocU
hai rubbed oflT the virtutnis feelings a boy was infpired with
at ichooly we frequently fiiid htm in mattfte age pnifaed on
to excellence in hodabie puriuita by the fame nerves which
led him foremoft iii the youthful fp<^, and made him a-
fpire at perfonal honour, or his mailer's applaufc, by rffing
Daxin the clafs through merit and indufh-y. It might,
itherefore, be of great advantage to church and fbite, in a
land where the road to eminence is open to all who will
Drive to attain it, were a man of a liberal and poliflied
ynind placed at the head of each of thefe nurferies of youth,
Ratified not only to teach children the alphabet, but to imv
plant in theit minds the feeds of virtue, and of that noble
ambition which leads to preferment in the world, as at
Ichool, b^ perfonal worth and due fubmiJQiDn to fuperiors.
But this can hardly be escpefted, while the appointments of
that office continue fo extremely narrow, as to make every
"uell-^'dacated and virtuous man fhfink back from it as a
place of hopelefs penury, or follow fome other employ-
ment befides his fchool, in order to gain V decent livelihood
for his family^ It is hoped, however, c!hat fuch arrange*
ments will be made as may enable prefbyteties (whom the
wifdom of our anceftors has conflituted guardians of paro^
chial fchools) to recommend men eveJ-y way fit for con*
'during that lingular fyftem of education from whence the
^ottiQi people ha v^ derived fuch confec^uence, and on.thb
3 proper
fioper ttumagtincnt of which the Inrelfare of focictj fo
gititly depends. Over the parochial fcbool of this parilh
a man of f(reat inUgritj has prefided upwards of 40 years^
aiKl many have reapied the -good fruits of his labours.
Herii^s. — ^Tbere arp ten heritors^ or proprietors of land,
in the parifli, ^ve great and five fmall. The Duke of Rox*'
burgh is proprietor of one half of the lands in the whole
parilhy and bears confeqnently one half of all parochial bur^-
deoS| except the miniAer's ftipend, of which by law he caa
greatly relieve himfelf^ being titular of all the teinds. The
only great heritor who refides for any length of time is the
Uoa. Baron Rutherford of Faimington. Of this gentle-
man's cbarafier, fo univerfally and fo jufily efiecmed, a
imall part only fadls within, the limits of a Statlftical ac*
count. The whole eftate is cultivated by the proprietor
himfelfy and his'extenfive improvements have afforded
bread to artifls ^d labourers in this part of the country
for many years. Befides their receiving the ftated price of
htboor, the moft humane and particular attention is paid
to the comfort and health of the inhabitants ^ in fo much,
that every thing being found them, (even medical afliBance
when necefiary), they have no need to apply to the public
funds of the "parifh for charity* In a fmall village on this
eftate* in which there are upwards of xoo fouls, the pro*
prietor has efiablilhed a fchool with a confiderable falary
to a teacher properly qualified. The fchoolmafter has an
additional allowance for keeping a Sunday fchool^ where
all who with to attend are inftruAed in the principles of re-
ligion and morality, and propei: books on thefe fubje^ pot
into their hand&.*-)noculatiou of the fmall-pox has often
been fucceisfully prafiifed in the bounds of his eilate ^ and
this alfo being afforded gratis^ has induced the parents to
comply with that faluiary meafure. Thus both the fpi*
ritual
■ -¥
t28 Statijlical Account ^
ritual and temporal inter^fls of the people are carefidly af«
tended to by the Hon. Baron *.
Of the 12 farmers who occupy the lands in this parilh,
eight farm pretty extenfively, the reft are fmall tenants.
Eleven or twelve in the village of Roxburgh are called
cotlanders^ poflefSng from his Grace the Dakeof Raxborgh
abaut two acres of land each, together with a houfe» jrardi
and liberty of pafturing their cows in an adjacent ioamimg.
This, along with their own induftry in fome trade, enables
them to bring up their families pretty comfortably. They
have no leafe of their lands, but their rents are feldom rai-
fed, and they are almoft never turned away, cnleis they be-
have ill, or prove troublefome neighbours. All of them
have families, which being, in genera^ trained up in the
path of virtue and induftry, promife to be ufefiil members
offocicty,
Animdls.'^ThAs parifh contains about x6o work, 9 or
10 riding horfes, and feveral young ones to preferve the
flock, 600 black cattle, and 4000 iheep, all good of their
l;.ind, though not diftinguiihed in the neighbourhood either
for lize or value. Birds of all kinds, ufually met with in
this country, appear here in their proper feafons. — ^The
Tweed and Teviot are the only rivers in the parifh, and
abound with various kinds of fiOi, efpecially falmon, whofe
prices are generally regulated by the Berwick mat ket. A
fmall purple-coloured trout prevails much here, very defi-
cious to eat, and is faid to be peculiar to Teviot. Such
quadrupeds as generally frequent the fouthem parts of
Sc9tland, appear in various corners of this parilh, and af-
ford the fportfmen plenty of game in the feafon.
Advantages
« Since the above wu writtdn, tliis worthy Nobleman is dead, mucii vA
moft'ficccrely regretted.
iff Roxburgh. 129
Advantages and Di/advanta^ ei.^^Thongh, this parifh is
«iot much diftinguiflied from thofe around by any pardfu-
lar local advantages, yet its vicinity to a good market at
Kelfoy its inhabitants Being liable to no peculiar difeaicy
and its very healthful climate» are properties of high efta-
jnation. Spring agues were tronblefome in two or three
places, which lie low and damp; but fince the ground
about thefie was made dry in the courCe of farming improve-
ment, by drains and inclofiixg, the inhabitants have not
been expofed to that complaint in any remarkable degree.
Several old people complain much of what they call tie
patJUf or rheumatifai^ oraving probably to the extreme cold
they are expofed to from their damp boufes, and great
icaxvity of firing. Among the principal difadvantages un-
der which this place and all the neighbourhood labour, is
the great diftance from coal, and a total want of every
-other fpecies of fuel. This is a xeal cfdamity to the poor ;
and mod heavily felt by them fince they were, £»aie years
ago, all prohibited from cafting turf on the moors. Every
cottar ufed to have liberty from his mafter to caft a ^arg or
two of turf.-*The fine road from Berwick to Carlifle, (fo
beautifully defcribed in the Statiftical Account of Bedrule),
pafles through the fouth part of this parifh, and is of ezten-
{ivc/ub^antia/ benefit, as is that likewife which runs along
the north fide of the parifii from Kelfo to Melrofe. But
the high road paffing through the village of Roxburgh is
jet in a natural (late, and on account of its extreme rug-
gcdntls is almoft impaflable* In confequence, however, of
a bridge now building over Teviot, near Kelfo, we hope
this road will foon be put into a (late of complete repair,
being the direft line therefrom up through a rich populous
country, whofe comforts and improvement are much im-
peded by the want of it. The bridge above mentioned is
xemarkably handfome, and will be of vaft utility to all that
Vol. XIX. R populous
X30 Statijlical Account
populous diftriS between Tweed and Teviot ; efpeciallj
to tl^ tenants on the eaft end of thb parifli, whom the ac-
cidental mngnitude of thefe riven often internipted in the
courfe of huiineb. Another inconvenience arifes to this
parifli from its interfe£tion by the Teviot. The lands ad-
jacent to the river are not indeed expofed to much damage
thereby, and a boat is kept at Roxburgh, both for ferving
the country, and accommodating the people with accefr to
the church ; yet the flooding of the river often prevents a
populous diftrift of the parifli ironi attending public wor-
iliip, and ^of>///)^ deprives the children there of the benefit of
the parochial fchool. As many landward pariflies labour
under fimilar inconveniencies with regard to parochial
fchools, it is hoped that in thefe arrangements underfiood
to be going on through Scotland for better encouraging the
education of youth, fome plan will be adopted for provi-
ding ftated fchoolmailers in fuch places as have not acceii
to the parilh-ichool.
Vie^os, — In almoft every corner of this parifli the eye b
prefented with objeds that nature and art feem vying how
bell to adorn. The beanties of the fcenery which fur-
rounds tlie feat of the ancient city of Roxburgh exceeds all
defcription. A little to the weft of this, the public road
lies along the top of a precipice lined with trees, through
which a traveller perceives the Tweed rolling ** ^dark,
** drumbly and deep," far below him ; at a little diftance,
on the other hand, he fees the Teviot meandring round a
large plain, and boimded by a rocky wooded bank. While,
contemplating thtfe rivers, truly beautiful when in low
water, and grand when in flood, the fpeAator fuddenly
lofes ijght of them^ and every thing elfe but the wood that
ovcrfliadows him in a hollow of the way. In this gloomy
path he goes only a few paces, until a moft enchanting
fceac
of Roxburgh. 131
ibeoe opens upon him all at once, the prominent features
whereof are, the Duke of Roxburgh's feat at Flenrs; Sir
George Douglas'a at Springwoodpark ; the Teviot on the
right and Tweed on the left hand, two beautiful bridges
over thefis, and Kelfo^ in all its glory, full in the traveller's
cje, as he paiTes eaftward. From a panicular fpot in the
▼tUage of Roxburgh there is a very magnificent view,
laooking eaftward, the fpe&ator.fees nothing wild or uncul-
tivated, and ftretches the line of vifion along a valley, appa-
rently covered with trees, to the diflance of 8 or 10 miles.
Jl com or grals field, a houfe here and there, and the fmoke
of various cots and villages curling up from amidft ti)e fo-
reft, divetfify and heighten the fcene. A houfe on the top
of a high hill, with a row of trees on each fide of it, makes
a fine termirauion to the wiiole. From the fame fpot the
fpcfiator is amufed with a very different profpeA wcft«
ward, doable the length, and bounded by the lofty moun-
tain Carter, and its adjacent hills* From a rifing ground
00 the fouth fide of the parifli, the curious are gratified with
a romantic view of the Teviot. After being concealed by
the panicular arrangement of its banks, the river appears
tumbling cafcadt-like from the mouthofSunlaws eaves, and
inftantly difappears again. The cave-mouths, and the river
apparently flowing from them, produce a moft Angular ef-
fed. A profped of the Teviot from Sunlaws hill, wind-
ing through an extenfive dale, enriched in the higheft de-
gree both by nature and art, well deferves notice as pecu-
liarly pleafing and grand. The wideft and mod abundant
range of view which this parifli affords, is from a rifing
ground or bill called Duns-Law^ on the weft angle of Fair-
nington eftate. Agreeably to the import of its name, this
eminence is faid to have formerly been a ftation of autho-
rity and ftrength. An obfcrvatory, or fummer-lioufe, built
on the top of it by the Hon. Baron Rutherford, ^commands
a
liz Statifllical Account
a prvTped too vaft, and crowded with objeds, for pafdcov
kr or critical remark. From this adTantageoos fpot o£
obfervatioa, the various powers of Cade which adorn the
mind of man are called forth, and pleafiuitly engaged in
contemplating lofty mountains, verdant htUs, firuitfnl plains^
beautiful rivers, populous towns, great woods, three re«
nowned caftles, and a peep of the German Ocean. Under
the fpcdator's eye from this place the parifli of Roxburgh
Mts fully difphyed, and forms an excellent landfcape, the
Tweed walhing its border on the north, and Teviot partly
on the fouth« A rich angle, all indofed *, lying on the
Ibuth-eaft £de of Teviot, adds much to the beauty of the
whole.
Curiofiiiei^-^hmong the cnriofities in this parifh, two
well-fprings, on the banks of the Tweed, of a petrifymg.
quality, are remarkable. One of thefe is but a feeble
fpring, and being la the midd of marfhy ground, is not very
perceptible. The ndols around it, however, is all incrufied
confiderably. More plentiful in its fource, tiie other
fpring produces a more powerful effed. It.feems to drip
through a fblld rock ; but upon near infpe£Bon, that rock
appears plainly to be a petrified fubftance. The powers of
the water are. fo ftrong, as to cruft a bit of mols, or any ca*
pillary fubftance, within the fpace of three months, and
render it hard as folid ice in the courfe of half a year. A
little below this a ilratum of rock (by miners called a dike)
runs acro& the rWer, and forms a great natural curiofity.
The rock is divided into four flits, which contain the
Tweed when not in flood. Two of thefe are/about 34 feet
deep, and fo narrow that one may eafily ftep acrob them.
In fnmmer, people a-foot ufed often to pais the river here ^
but
* This is faid to have been the firfl inclofed fp-ound in all this countr;.
of Roxburgh. 133
hot Sir Henry Haj Macdougal, fome time ago» caufed the
middle rock to be blown up ; and thus humanely Aopped that
carious, but dangerous paflage. As the water runs through
chefe guUets with great velocity, perpetually hurling down
fmall ftones, it emits a loud grumbling noife at a// times ;
hut at the break df an ice florm, it fends forth atremen*
dons roar Eke the raging fea, and is heard a great way off.
In the time of firoft the dtflferent ihapes and hoary appear*
ance of the ice fdrm a grand fcene; in fummer, or when
the river is low, a diftant view excites pleaCmt emotions ;
a near infpeAion of the deep impetuous ftream raifeth a
Ytry different feeling. Thefe rocks are frequented by
great numbers of falmon, and highly valued by fifhers as a
fit place for fetting their nets. Three or four cart-load of
fiih are fometimes catched there in a morning. Such fiih
as lodge among thefe rocks a few days, it is faid, turn quite
black, owing, perhaps, to the efieft of copper ore whick
appears on both fides of the river here in confiderable
quantity. Some of the fmall ftones which halt on diefe
rocks being kept in a conftant eddy by the current, grind
out deep round holes vtrj/ooftf which make a curious
beautiful appearance.
^iif^tfiVfVf ^— Such as are given to that fpecies of inve-
iligation might find many memorials of antiquity in this
parifli. The feat and gardens of the Francifcan monks^
who fettled. at Roxburgh; various monuments of ghoftly
cuftoms obferved by thofe religionifts ; medals, coins, fun-
dry machinery inftruments ; caufeway paved ftreets and
fubterraneous vaults ; pieces of fpears, guns, and other mi-
litary accoutrements ; an immenfe quantity of iron nails,
&c. found in cultivating 'the fields where the ancient city
of Roxburgh formerly floo3; fpurs, and otlver articles
of hamefs, got about the fkirts of the caftle ; the cattle it-
3 • f-^'f-
134 Stattftical Account
&% \vhereof there remains now only as much fliattered
wall as fuggefts the former prodigious flrength' and finga*
lar magnificence of that fortreis ; a variety of %fjA JUaelj
trees, particularly an elm, called the tryJUmg-trtt^ about
thirty feet round the trunk, and clothed with ramificatioiu
• remarkably grand and venerable; tbofe objeds fumiih
great entertainment for the antiquarian : but the reader is
referred for a fiirther account of them to the Sutiilical Re-
port of Kelfo, whofe author has taken notice of them« and
whofe talents, befides fuperior means of information, are
better fitted to do jufiice to fuch rare monuments of anti-
quity *• But there are other objcds in this pariih worthy
of the antiquarian's notice. Among thefe may be reckon-
ed a hawthom-tree in the minifter's garden, remarkable for
fize and beauty, meafuring about feven feet round the
trunk, and ihading an area of upwards of thirty feet dia-
meter. There are few objeAs of greater beauty to be feen
than this tree when in bloirom.-*The remains of a ftroag
tower, fituated near this village, on the top of a bank
gently doping down to the T^viot, are worthy of notice.
This venerable fabric has once been of great extent and
magnificence. Old people here remember its having vari-
ous apartments inhabited, the windows and doors fecured
by iron bars and gates, and the Unties and door-pofis, cfpe-
cially thoie of the great porch, highly ornamented by grand
Gothic fculpture. They fpeak with rapture alfo of the
fine gardens, the fruit-trees, and various works of decora-
tion,
* That tbefe places belong to Roxburgh parUh appean, from the local
memory of the oldeft inhabitants here ; from the expreCs terms of the leafcs,
whereby the tenants of thefe lands have always held that farm ; from the
Bailie of Roxburgh barony holding his court at Frian ; from the polittv^
' teftxmony of the late author of die county cefs-books ; and from the ftatutc-
' labour of Roxburgh parlHi being applied for making tod repairing roads
about Friais as within tliis bounds.
of Roxburgh. 135
<
tioD, whereby they have feen this manfion fiirroanded.
TTheTe things, fo expreffive of the tafie and dignity of the
former inhabitants of tbb place, afe now quite efiaced ;
and there remains of the tower itfelf only two apartments
on the gronnd-floor, lighted by a few rays tranfmitted
through fome flics in the wall, apparently defigned for air,
or for fliooting arrows from in different diredions. The
apartments are ftrongly arched above ; the walls are up-
mrards of fix feet thick, and boilt with fmallftones, cement*
ed firm as the folid rock. The roof is overgrown with
grab, interfperfed by bmfli-wood, fprung, feemingly, from
feed blown thither from a neighbouring afli-tree. Thefe
buihes contribute much to the beautifiiUy grotefque figure
of thu rnin. From thb tower was carried to the late Lady
Chatto's (whole property it was) a flroog iron gate, two
^ars, a fieel cap, and a coat of t'mail very entire. The
fpcars were of fuch fize that a rugg faw was made out of
each, and dill to be feen here : the coat of mail was fo
Iwmvy, that aftout young man in this village, who tried it on
and eSayed to walk, was not able to move with it. This
ruin is called Merlin's Cave, in memory of an ancient in-
habitant of that name, they fay. It beats alfo the name of
Wallace's Tower ; but whether it obtuned that defignation,
like totne other places in Scotland, merely in honour of
fiscb an illnftrions champion of his country ; or whether, as
blind Harry &ys, Wallace was adually in this place, and
built the tower at Roxburgh, the writer has not been able
fbUy to afcertain. A young woman, about 70 or 80 years
ago, fell from the ftair-head, where ihe was fitting fpinning
one day, and foon after that the place was totally defertcd.
From a fiiperflitions averfion probably, that ftill prevaib
-in
, • The ftccl cap is in podeffioa ftill of Mr George Cnufton at Plow.
had.
136 Statijlical Account
in this cottntry, to any place where wilfiil or accidental
death has happened, the people imagining that fuch places
are haunted by the ghofts of the deceafisd ; that gloomy
fancy was heightened in this inftance by the confideration
of the poor imfortanate's being a bride the day (he died.
A little tojthe weft ward of this, on the oppofite tide of the
river, appear feveral caves cnt out of folid rock, in the
middle of a high precipice, whofe bottom is waflied by the
Teviot, which flows here broad and deep in a Terpentine
form* Three of thefe caves have been of large dimeniions.
One of them was ufed as a hiding place for horfes in 1745*
when the Pretender to the Crown of Britain went through
this parifh with his army, and from that circumftance, as
well as from its having been ufed for a ftable afterwards,
it is called the Horfe Cave. Another, whofe mouth is al-
moft quite filled vp, and inaccefllible now, reaches fo far
back into the ground, that old people who have been in it
fay they never got to the fartheft end of it, and fuppole this
cave had beta a fiibterraneous paflage to Sunlaws manfioOi-
houfe in times of danger^ A third is called the Dove Cave^
from its having been ufed by Lady Chatto as a pigeon-
houfe. The fides of it are full of fquare holes cut out of
the folid rock, and faid to have been the pigeon nefts ;
but fome imagine from this circumftance, that it had been
originally a concealed cellar, or hiding place for (lores* Ic
is probable thefe caves had all been iheltering holds during
the border incurfions, which expofed the miferable inhabi-
tants of this country to perpetual danger and depredation.
Ac the month of one of thefe caves, in a fine fummer even-
ing, when the fun has gone *• halJUngs down the weft," the
eye is prefented with a view of nature difplayed in fuch
^lory and variety, as (he feldom a(rumes. Many veftiges
of camps and trenches appear in this parilh -, but the moft
remarkable encampment in ic is that on the north-weft fide,
ofkoxhurgb. 137
fo well defcrified in the Statiftical Report of Maztoiii but
from the local metnorj of the people not ia Maxton pa*
lifli. ** The exploratory mount belonging to this camp
*' ftands a little eaftward on the banks of Tweed * \** is
planted on the top with trees, as a vifta from Mackcrfton-
houfe, and makes a very piAurefque appearance, the fcene^*
ry round its bafe being highly romantic. A well of fe-
▼era! ftreams iflues out of it, which, from the name f , the
peculiar fidubrity of the water, and the remains of nice
building, had likely been once of great repute. The great
Roman road (Watling-ftreet) By Borrowbridge, runa
through the weft comer of this parifli; and that being
thought the neiifeft yet found between England and Scot-
land, great quantities of cattle pnrchafed at the Scotch
markets are carried fouth this way.
Mtjcettantis. — The wages of houfehold-fervants are not
higherhere than in the neighbourhood; tbofe of day-la«
bourers are often regulated by the abilities of the worker,
or his employer's neceflity. Wages in general are under*
flood to be more than qqadrupled within the laft forty years,
and leave little ground ot complaint, did not plenty create
luxury, and luxury want^. which nature unadulterated fel*
dom feels. The people hd^r complain not fo much of the
price, as of the mode of obtaining labour in fome inftanoes.
Cottars are bound to be at their matter's call through the
whole year, at 8 d. pir day generally. Confidering this
bondage^ as they call it, a hardfhip, the people ftrive to get
lodgings in places where no fuch obligations are required,
or where they may have viftuals as part of wages, a thing
fcldom now granted to day-labourers here.* Owing either
to this, or the monofofy of/armSf or the demolition of cot-
Vol. XIX. S hou&s,
• Pennant . . i St John's Well.
138 Staiiftical Account
honfes, or, perhaps, the combinatioa of all thefe, the popu-
htioa of this pairifli has decreafed upwards of aeo Coob
within the fpace of ten years ! a ferious clrcumftanoe, were
it univerfid through country parifhes; principles of eflSrmi-
nacj and corroption naturally prevailing moft in towns, for
teafons mentioned above, die people generally emigrating
firom the country to towns. In an age of general profpe-
rity> indeed, thefe baneful principles make rapid progids
every where. An unexampled flow of profperity has, of
late years, wonderfully altered the condition, fentiments,
and manners of men in this comer of the country ; but the
vrricer is happy to find the people here retaio, in general,
their wonted charafier of fobriety, kii^dneis, liberality, and
xefped for the ordinances of divine worlhip. Indeed, the
inhabitants of Roxburgb parilh lie under peculiar obliga-
tions to. virtue both civil and religious. Dwelling in peace,
happineis, and lafety on that very fpot where their fathers
knew not where to lay their heads, the fen^ble and reflefi-
ing feel thankful to iiei^vim for fpreading its inflfieii^ ib
benignly over us^
Memoriab of death and flaughter appear in many parti
of this pariih, from human bones, fometimes fcattered in
the open field uncoffined ; fometimes huddled together
head to foot, in a hole of the earth, and covered with rug-
ged fiones ) ai^d fometimes found in cells of mouldering
towers, with infiruments of murder in their bowels* Xbefe
fad memorials make minds of (enfibility bewail the wretch*
edneft of mankind in a rude, ungovemed ftate, and infpire
veneration for that excdkmt conflitution, under whofe ao- .
fpices Britons enjoy their religion,* families, and home ;
each one fitting under his own vine and under his own fig-
tree, and nohe to 'make him afraid.
Surveying the plains where armies a hundred thoufimd
ftrong had marched^ eoipurpling the earth with blood, now
of Roxburgh. 159
oBtfndantfy jrielding food for man and beaft, men grafp ia
joyful expedation that halcyon era^ when the fpears of
eyery land (hall, as here, be beat into plough-ibares, and
the *^ (till voice" charm the warriors confufed noife into
perpetual filence. Mufing over the razed foundations of
Roxburgh, once the fourth burgh of diftinftion in Scotland ;
die traces of thofe halls, which rung twice feven days in
honour of Royal births and nuptials ; and the rubbifli of
domes, where Prii^c^and Nobles were wont to fit in ftate,
the heart feels for the tranfient nature of fublunary joy or
greatnels, and the Chrifiian's foul afpires after manfions
above, where moth and ruft corrupt not *•
* Such as wifli for t full tcconnt of this place, may confult the Hifiorj
of Scotland, Redpath^s Border Hiftorf, Pennant*s Tour, and particularly*
a manaTcript Hiftory of Roxburgh, formerly in the Advocate's fjbraift
Edinburgh, and the writer fuppofes may ftiU be ieen there.
NUM-
1^0 Statyiical Account
NUMBER IV.
CITY OF ABERDEEN^
(County or Aberdeen);
From the Communications of/everal Gentlemen ofibat Citym
I
IntroduBion.
\^
ABERDEEN, the metropolis of the northern divifion of
Scotland, and the capital of the conntj of Aberdeen,
is fituated at the influx of the rivers Don and Dee into the
German Ocean ; and in 57^ 9' north latitude, as takea at
the Aftronomical Obfervator j belonging to the town *.
The
^ There have beeo, in this century, three mtpi made of Aberdeen. The
fiift by G. and W. Paterfon in 1746, which is titled* « A Svrvey of Old
•• and New Aberdeen, with the adjacent country between the rivers Dee
*< and Don.** It makes a fingle flieet map, and is prefixed to No. III. of
Bibliotheca Typographica Britannica, 410. The fecond, publiihed in 1773,
by Captain Taylor, comprehends Old Aberdeen, and moft of the parifli of
Old JVlachar, with all the fields lying between Dee and Don, to about three
miles from the mouth. The third, on a larger fcalc than either of the for-
mer, publiOied in 1 790, by Alexander Milne, is intended chiefly as a map
•f the tovni and harbour of Aberdeen, with the nearcft circumjacent fields.
of Aberdeen: ^ 141
The etymologj of Aberdeen^ the ancient as well as mo-
dem name both of the town and pariih, is doubtlefs from
the ancient Britifh. Aber^ according to Cambden, when ap-
plied to a river or brook » fignifies the mouth, ojiium^ the
place where it falls into the fea, or into any lake or river.
The earlieft mention, probably, of this place, is in a Roman
itinerary of the incuriion made by Severus, if we mifiake
not, into the northern parts of the ifland, in the beginning
of the 3d century. The town is there called Devana^ and
the river De'oa. But whether the name Devana was ufed
hy the natives may reafonably be queflioned. It appears
more likely to have been given it by the Romans from its
fitoation on D^a, the Dee. What ferves to confirm this
opinion is, that the Dee^ a river of the fame name in the
weft of England, is, by Ptoleipy, alfo called Deva^ and
Cbefter^ the only city of note upon it, is, from th^t circum-
fiance, called Devana^ a word which has no affinity to
Cbejler^ or to any name by which it feems to have been
known to the natives* Probably, therefore, Abtrdetn ;is
the firft name by which this town was diftinguiihed, and
that before the introduftion of Chriftianity into the country*
It is much more probably derived from the ancient Britijb
than from the Erfe. To the former, the oldeft names of
towns, rivers, and mountains in this country have a greater
affinity than to the latter, which, though but a different
dialed of the fame language, the Celtic came much later
than the other into the eaftern parts of the country, from a
colony oilri/bf whence it has had, time immemorial, the
name of Erfe. If the Pi£b were, as fome of our antiqua-
ries ftippofe, a tribe of the ancient Britons, the name is
doubtlels to be afcribed to them. But if, as is maintained
by others, the Pifis were originally Scandinavians or Ger«
mans, the name Aberdeen^ with many others, mud have had
its origin before their invafion, and muft be attributed to
the
t4l Siatifitcal Account
the firft known inhftbitants of the \vhoIe ifland, the ancient
Britons. Another argoment that it is from the old Briti/t
or IFeicb, not from the Iri/b or Erfe^ that Aberdeen is de-
rived, is, that in no place where the Er/e has been, time
immemorial* the vemacnlar tongue, do we find any name
of fimilar derivation ; whereas we find many in thele parts
where the other language was known to have prevailed.
Iii Scotland, for example, all the j/ieri are on the eaft fide«
There we have Aberdeen, Aberdour, Aberbrothoick, Aber-
lemnj, Abemethy. In Wales they abound — Aberavott,
Aberconway, Aberfraw, Abergely, Abergerlick, and Aber-»
yftwitK. In the neighbouring weftem parts of England—
Aberford and Abergaveny. But not any that we know
in the eaftem parts of £ngland, none in Ireland, nor on the
weft of Scotland, the country of the Highlanders, where the
£rfe has been the language of the people for many ages«
It may feem ftrange that there fliould be fto example of
this Britiih idiom on the eaft coaft of England, of which
the Britons were to long in pofleflion. We know no way
thb can be accounted for, btft by obferving, that when the
country was fubdued by the Saxons, the old inhabiunts^
were not, as is common, fufiered to remain and intermingle
with the conquerors, but were cruelly expelled, and forced
to take refuge in the mountains of the weft, a traft of
country comparatively barren, and alrooft inaccefiible. It
IS this total and fudden extermination, by which alone we
can account for fo ftrange a fad, that few places in the
caftem parts of England retain their old Britiih names.
That the ancient Britons, and the Irifli or Scots (for the
name Scott was for ages ufed indifferently of both) were
originally and equally Gaulifti colonies, there is no room to
doubt ; but as they have come off at different times, and
probably from diftant parts of the extenfive countries peo*
pled by the Gauls, the dialefis of thefe different colonies,
though
of Aberdeen. I43
ckoogfa refembliiig, as fprung from a comnum dock, are not
to £ur coincident as that the tongue of the one nation ihould
lie intelligible to the other. That our Scotch Highlanders
are originally from Gaul is manifeft from the name Gaelic
which they have always given to the language they fpeak*
This is not le(s evident of the ancient Britons, from the
name univerfally given to the country, to which, after the.
Anglo-Saxon conqueft, they were obliged to confine them-
felves. It was called GaUta^ which in the Saxon idiom is
Walis i the people Gallu Welchmen. For let it be obfer-
Ted^ that thofe who fpoke any of the Teutonic dialeSs al^
ways changed the hard g of the fouthem languages into w.
Thus, of th^ French guerre they made war; from their
guarJien^ we have jvarden ; their GuiUamme is our William ;
and Guabere is Walter. And converfely, he who is in
Britain Prince ofWales^ is in France h Prince de Gallee.
To (ay, therefore, that one fpeaks Wel/b^ muft have denoted
the fame originally as he fpeaks Gaul{/b^ or Gaelic, no
other alteration being made on the word than what the
adapting of it to the Saxon pronounciation rendered necef«
fiiry. It is, therefore, no improvement in modems to con-
found with it the dialeA of the Highlanders, by giving it
the name Gailic\ for though this application may be jufii«
fied from confidering the origin of the people, yet as the
mdre familiar name . Erfi ferves both to difcriminate the
dialed of our Highlanders from the ancient Britifli, and to
point out its coincidence with the Irifli, it is every way
preferable. It b not meant to intinxate, that thofe names
which have commonly been cohGdered as of Iriih extrac-
tion, are all originally Britifh. Some of them are mani*
&ftly of the former dialed. In Erie, the word inver^ for
example, correfpoads to the Britilh aber. Now we have
foveral imoere^ as Invemeis, Inverury, Inverbervy, all un-
q[uefiionably from the £rfe 9 only with regard to thefe, we
have
144 Staiifiical Account
hftTe reafon to think they are of much later origin than the
cither. Strain or Stratb^ in Britifhy denoting a valley en-
clofed by hills, and lying along the banks of a river or lake.
'Rtnct Strmbearn, Stnabrnwe^ Strathdon^ Siratbfpey^ &<:•
Nearly equivalent to Strath is Ghn in Erfe, 'and Dalt in
Anglo-Saxon* Thus, what with us is ClydeUale, was by
tiie ancient inhabitants called Straicfyde.
This place is frequently known by the name of the OU
and Niw Town^of Aberdeen ; the former is chiefly fitiia<«
ted near the mouth of the Don, the latter near the moudi
of the Dee. The two rivers, at their influx into the fea,
are diflant about a mile and a quarter \ but this intervening
fpace is moflly occupied by regular ftreets and bnildings,
which form the prefent city of Aberdeen,
OLD MACHAR.
The pariih of^Old Machar was originally a deanry,
called the Deanry of St Machar, and comprehended the
parilhes of Old Machar, New Machar, and Newhilb. In
times of Popery, they do not feem to have been divided
into feparate parifhes, but to have been chapels in the dcan^
ry, at which chapels divine worfhip was regularly perform-
ed^ as the inhabitants of fo extenfive and populous a diftrid
could not coirveniently meet in one place for public worifaip*
New Machar feems to have been ereded into a feparate
parifli about the time of the Reformation; and Newhills
about the year 1663. This pariih is now called Old Aber-
deen, or the Old To%vn pariih, from the city of Old Aber*
deen, in which the cathedral, now the pariih •church, is
iituated.
a The
of Ahetdetn. 145
' lliif extent of this parifli is great, and its form in«-
gvkr. Its feuth-eaft comer forma the nonh and wA
boondariea of the city of Aberdeen, or p^rifb of St Nicho-
las. It extends about three mile^ up the Dee^ by whieh
river it is bounded on the loath, and divided from the pa«
rifli of Nigg, and connty of Kineardine. The wefteni
booDdary ftretcbes in a crooked tine from the Dee to th^
Don, at the diftaiiee 0f aboat two miles and a half froan
the pariflitchurch. By this line ii is dildded from the
pariiheS of Nether Baochory and Newhills. Crofling the
Don, it extends a mile and' a half farther up the river, ma-
king in all fonr hiiles Brom the river's mouth. On this
part, the Don divides it from the. pariflies of Newhills and
Dyoe} l.s northern boundary pafles by thu) .pariflies of
New Machar and Belhelvie, till it joins the fea at the
Black Dog *, f<^ming a fweep, every part of which is di^^
llaat from the pariflnchurch at Jeail four miles. Oo the
eaft it is bounded by the fea from the Black Dog tQ< Aber«
deen, the extent of coaft being about five miles. Its great-
eft length from north to foiith may be from fevea to eight
miles, and its greateft breadth about four miles.
This parifli rifes in a gentle flope from the fea, and though
there is no emmence in it that deferves the name of a moun-
tain, its furface is beautifully diverfified by rifing grounds.
The windings of the Dee and the Don, the roanufa&ories,
and the woods on the banks of the latter, fome detached
dumps of Ranting on the rifing grounds, interfperfed with
■ a number of gentlemens feats and villas; together with
the various profpe&s of the fea, the rivers, the cities of Old
Vol. XIX. T. and
* The Black Dog ii a ToHtary rock of a black colour, in the fands of
fidhelne, witfaia high water mark. When the tide U mit, one may waUc
RMnd it on ^ fand ; tnit >irheii die tide is in, the fummit of it appean
above the water like the bead of a black dogt and to this fj|cmnftanfc it
litsi
146 Smt^kt^ Aecwnt
'^nd -'Ne^ Aberdeen, gnd the villages^ of GilC€ltt8iMi anl
'flardgat^, %\^h a "(ileaCidt Vafiety to the jetieral appeatante
tli this-parifli« 'Tlie^e^ and rugged haokks of the ;DoD|
'from tile hoDfe 6f Seaton till belofr die bridgeware fo truly
rbmanticy that thty feldom efoape the ftranger's notice.
"Thefcf rocks, abounding witii an immenfe' variety of herbs,
covered partly with wood, and partly with fufze, aft>rd
'Ample gratification both to the botanift and the lover of ru-
'ral beauty* Winding in a femicireularform, as you walk
-along their fummits, you command in one diredion, coa-
fiantty' Varying, vie\vs of the fea, and of die oU lo&y
'Gothid arch which is thrown over the river ; while, on the
' oppofite-dir^ftion, you have as diverfified views of the old
'Cathedral, the fpires of 'Aberdean, and the various manu^
-feftories on the different meanders of the Don. Thefe
profpeds, if y6tt look down, are dttightfillly viuried, by the
'fiflier^en plying their Iktle boats, at thft depth of jo or 60
feet below. This phuse has been coospared to die beauti-
fill and wild fcenery inS'wiuerland.
On 'the fouth fide of the parifli, near to FerryhiUs, are
many curious 1 ttle Sandhills, lying in all different direc-
tions, and moulded into various forms, ieemingly by the
retiring of f9me immenie quantity of water. Among
tbefe one called the round O deferves to be particularly no-
ticed. It rifes by itfelf in acircular form, from the level
of a mois, and has a hollow in it of confiderable depth, like
an inverted fugar-loaf. This hollow is macihy in the hot*
torn. As to its caufe I have heard no conjefture. About
this place are feveral beautiful villas; and it affords excel-
knt fituations for many more.
The foil in this parilh is in jfome places naturally fertile,
in others barren ; and many parts of it have been forced
into fertility by aftoniihing labour and espence* Where
it has aot4>een melioratied by art, it is in general fhallow,
iandy.
tf Aberdeen. 147
0&djv aad bU of ftooes. To this, fonpiefpots on the giar^
IP of the Doo, ind tlie fiekjs from the eaft fide of the ckj,
of OU Aberdeen (o .the fea, fomi. ezcep^oa$ ; althangh the
Coil of thefe laft be light, it has for a fublbil a very deeg
ftratom of excellent clay. In many places to the pfnih of
ihe Dpn, eipec^y toiyarjds the coaft,| a deep mols qf an^ in-
4iffercnt qwlity is fimnd under tbip foil; and in fome plaoes
i^uneoCe beds of land*
l^e air la generally healthy: imd.VJce, that of other
'{places on the ooafl^ is neitber fo l>pt in fcunmer« nof fo cold
^f as in oioreialsnd parts.of tho country. .^
ABERDEEN, or St NrCHOLAS.
Tab poriik k fiMtfetiiM called the pariOi 9i Si Ntebbi^kf
4^ tutelar fidnti .to. whom the gmar chnrch in ithe city,
whidb was very ancieDt, but o£ whoTe age we hare 00 re*
cord, had been dedicated. Thci chuccb was pnlkd down
wd rebuilt about the waddle of the prefent ceatiiry» buti
fiill retains the name of iS!^ NicMdt from tt^e former dedi;
cation. As to the origin of this namet it is lequifite only
to obCerre, that though there have been in the church many
I>odors named NieMmst the Bifliop of Myra in Lycia is
the only one of the name who has obtained a place in the
Salendar, an4 ia- there&re to he accounted the tutelar
Cnat intended* The name St NkbUas^ as given to the
iwiik, cannot be. fitppoled to have befcn from the begiiw
sing. We even fnlpeft the (aiot is yonnger than the pa*
fifli. Pt'obably tfiis appellation is no older than the late
wUfice that bore the name. In primitive times it would
have
148 StatiJHcal AtcQiint
have bceo thought a ipecies of idolatrf ; to dedicate a dmrdi
to aoj but God« The origin of chb natney therefore, ms a
name of the church or parilh, may not implaafibfy be at*
tribnted to Tome of the dirk a^, the tenth, efevestbt or
twelfth tentuf jr. '
The Extent of the parifli, in pmnt of territory; it not
great, being confined to the boonds of the citj on itvtrf
fide, except th^ fouth-eaft, where it extends to the month
of the riVer, and inclades a fmall fifliing village caHed Fut^
tky (or Footdii^ as fome of late afleft to ^11 it from a mi-
staken etymology), whidi lies along the river, between
Aberdeen and the fea, and is (he only village in the parilh.
. In other diredUons, even what may hfi called the liiborb^
of the town, are not in the parilh.«-As to the form, thougl^
yery irregular, it conges nearer a triangular figure than any
other we can thinik <JL In this yiew we reckon the quay,
and that part cf the ftreet which leads from the weft end
ci the quay to the Bow-bridge, (which is She loiireft and
maft foutherly part of the town), the bafe of the triangle t
the angle fubtended, which makes the top of the triangle,
and is the highcft part of the town, is at the Gallowgate-
port, which is in like manner the northern extremity.*— -The
length of the parifii, reckoning from the loweft dwelling*
hoofe npon the Dee, next the block-houfe, to the moft
northern Ijpufe in Can&y-end, is about two Englifli miles.
The breadth, reckoning from Sommer's houfe eaftward,
behind North-ftreet, to the Infirma^, which is in the moft
weftem port of the town, about one mile.-— It is bounded
on thefouth by the pariih of Nigg, from which it is fepa*
rated by the river ; the only boundary on the eaft is the
iea ; on the north and weft, quite roond from the fea to the
river, it is bounded bjr the pariih of Old Machar, or Old* '
town pafilhf as it is here commonly called.^^The circnm«
jacent country is hilly, but not mountainous ; and though
' ' ' it
^Aberdeen. 249
it abounds in ftone-foarries, there are hoprojefliiig rocks'of
•nj magnitade. The town itfelf, which is about a mile
firom the fea, ftands mofllj on fonr little hills, gently rifing
finom the river, to wit, Caftlebill, St Catharine's hiU, Port-
hill, and Schoolhin.
The ground weft ward rifes, for a confiderable wa j, b j at
wtTf fenfibl^ though eafy afcent. A great part of the
GraflB^an^mountains is in view. They run acrois the
wh<^ country, thmr difefiion being from north-eaft to
Iboth-weft. The !fulloe-hiU, on the fouth fide of the river^
in the pariOi of Nigg, may jufUy he confidered as the ter-
mination of that traft rf moumtaitts en the eaft towards the
German ocean. * Thb hill is covered with (hort heath and
looTe flones j and has on it an eminence called the Kairm of
lAorJlam^ which fronts the to¥m on the fouth. The high*
.cr and mere diftant Grampians, on fome of which are huge
rocks, are chiefly covered with heath and moflTes. The
Stocket, or high ground weft of Aberdeen, already men-
tioned, was, ^ot many years ago, covered with ftones and
heath, but is bow converted into rich fields of gnds and
com*
The foO, in this neighbourhood, is naturally rather bar-
fen and thin, being moftly gravel and (and ; but by means
of the manure conftantly fumiflied by fo populous a city^
is rendered, in aconfidcrable degree, both deep and fertile.^ ^
Some places abound in clay, and in others there is plenty
of black earth.— The air is commonly fliarp, dry, and
healthy, as may reafonably be ezpeAed from the ezpofure
and fituation of the town. The wind, from whatever quar-
ter it blows, has a free circulation. There is not, however^
in this refpcA, a perfect equality in all parts of the town.
In thofe on the eaft fide, which are moft ezpofed to the iea
air, there is greater dampnels,^ and a flower vegetation ia
the gardens.
Thcrt
Tkett u a ftc«l muMral wmtcr 9^ tbc^ vccft fid^ of die
t^iwriij neiir thff lafirqiu:/, cooimoalj^ called die Wdlt^Spa^
apt fo firopg aa the Peterhe»d water, whicli haa bicen thoa^it
oi lecviee ia (hofb ea&s wbfqrein recooriie ia had to. diaJjw
beate fprings. An eflay on the Tirtucs of tbia water wap
ppbliQied'by Dr B»rckj, about tli« bef^iag of the laft
oenturj. A mineral rpjiag,ui (he groiiiKfeof Mr Mbir<«f
Scotilown* in the parifh of Old MKhatt WBa» foaae yoeit
1^^, auidh.fireqaeoted bj the lower ch4oi of people, pwtiji
fac health and partly for aoM^nieiir; but it waa filled op
\rf the proprietoc, in the ootir& of isoproTuig hia laada.
Ode. has, by the tetiaal, beca opened op in the oeig|iboiu>
hood« and feveral' people drink the water* although it ianol
thought to be fo good as the forcner* There ia another ini>
neraliwell neaf Gordon's miUs. Both ftre weak chalybeatta^
md may be of fame (ervice in aU oal)e% in which a weak
jUution of iron with fixed air can da good.
There are no lakes in the parifh* That commonly caO*
td the Jj>ch^ lyiitg weft of the Gallow^tOt ia no other than
% miUdam, where the water of a brook is coUefted and
confined for the ufe of a malt and flour mill in the town.
One pr two fmaU* lochs, on the weft* fide of the city of Old
Aberdeen, have been completely drained, andnowproduca
excellent crops of grain. A rivuletf called the Denbom,
divides, for a (hort way, thb parifli from Old Machar» on
the fouch-weft, and falls into the river Dee, 'a litde above
the quay.
The river Don is navigable to the bridge, hiit has ne
barbottr. It is navigated by one fiaall floop, which ia em-
ployed in bringing coals to the brick-kiUis that are near
the water-mouth. In a little time there will certainly be
wiore* Boats of a very large fi^Le might eafily, at fiill tidey
be brought nearly as far as Seaton houfe. This cinnioi*
fiance would be of great importance were there any ma*
nu£i£toricf
wf Aherdeifu ' arji
BUfitOori^ ftt KethiMik's mills, on tlie ^ate of Traieiiekl^
which is oppofite to Seatoo, and vrhere there is an excelleiit
haugh, tvith a command of water' fuAcieot for driTing mk^
chineiy to any extent. Goods might be eafily exported
diredlj from f he manufaftory^ and materials imported to
it, without the trouble and expence of land carriage.
The Dee, which abounds with excellent falmon and trout,
u navigable for (hips, fo far up only as the harbour of
Aberdeen, into which (hips of about 200 tons burden, if of
a proper con(lru£lion, or veflels of 10 feet draught (as it is
•ailed) can come, at high water, to the upper quay : and
this only fince building the north pier, for before that time
the river was not only much {hallower at the mouth than
at preleht, but after a dorm from the eaft or north-eaft, was
liable to be blown up with (and, which formed a bar at the
'4epth of little more than three feet from the furface, and
proved a great obflruAion to the entrance of large veflTek*
The water is, by means of the north pier, not only con-
fined and deepened to 18 feet and upwards, but the harbour
Iheltered, in a great meafure, from the dorm.— Below tho
town's quay are two harbours, one on the' north, and the
•dicr on the fouth fide of the river, to both of which fhips
of much larger burden than thofe already mentioned have
acceis ; the 'one on the fouth fide is the harbour of Tory, a
filhing-town in the parilh of Nigg.
Whether the river could be rendered navigable farther
up than Aberdeen is not certain ; and it is probable that
any attempt to this purpofe would anfwer no good end*
The tide feldom or never flows higher up, than to the
bridge, which is little more than two miles from the
mouth 'f and there is not commonly fuch a quantity of wa*
ter in the river, as, without the aid of the tide, would ferve
for any ufeful navigation, efpecially as there is no town or
village, except Aberdeen, on the river.
- X The
X52 Staii/Hcal Aee^Mat
Thegreateft flood in the J)ee, withio die memory of
m«ii« was in the year 1768. Bot althoogh the river roie
• to aa amaaung hei^t, it did not reach anj of the hoofes,
even in the ftreet caOed the Gmm^ which is the loweft and
colj part of the town that appears to be in any danger
from inundatioos or land-floods. Bnt the haughs on bodi
fides of Don and Dee are liibjeft to them, and have feme*
times fufiered confiderablj. *
Bridges ofDtm and Det.
In xaSi, Henry Cheyne (nephew of John Comyn, who
was killed by Robert Brace at Dumfries in 1305) fuc-
ceeded to the biflioprick of Aberdeen* After Comyn*s
deathi Biihop Cheyne, (from his being fo near a relation to
Comyn)» as well as many others in Scotland, were gready
enraged at Robert Bruce, upon account of Comyn's deathy
and openly efpoufed the intereft and party of the Comyns.
]^or thi$ reafon, after Bruce became fettled in the throne '
and government, Biihop Cheyne was obliged to fly into
England, and remain there for (everal years, during which
time the revenues of this biflioprick remained unapplied.
But King Robert having been afterwards reconciled to Bi«
^fliop Cheyne, was pleafed to allow hfm to return, and pof*
fels the fee of Aberdeen as formerly. The biihop was'fo
happy, upon hb being again received into the King's fa-
vour, that, upon his return home, he, with the concur-
' rence and approbation of his Sovereign, applied the whole
rents of his biflioprick, which, during his abfence in £ng-
land, l^d accumulated to a confiderable fum towards build-
ing the bridge over Don of one large Gothic arch, where
it now ilands, upon the great high road leading northward
from Aberdeen, and it appears to have been built about the
year 1320. Bifliop Cheyne died in X329.
Bifliop
of Aberdeen,, 153
BUhop William Elphingfton left a confiderable legacy to
build a bridge over the river Dee, near Aberdeen, as well
as for the ere&ion of an univerfity at Old Aberdeen, where
the biihop's cathedral ftood, but died in 15 14, before any
thing was done in the building of the bridge. Gavin Dun-
bar, fon of Sir James Dunbar of Cumnock, by Elizabeth
daughter of the Earl of Sutherland, and uncle to Gavin
Dunbar, Archbifliop of Glafgow, having fucceeded to the
biiboprick of Aberdeen in 1518, he ibon thereafter caufed
coUeft and receive the money which had been left by Bi-
ihop Eiphingfion for the building of this bridge ; and ha- '
ving alfo contributed himfelf a confiderable fum of iponey
to that work, he caufed ereA the greateft part of the bridge
where it now ftands, of feven arches, about the year 1530,
although it was not finiflied till after his death. Thjs
bridge having gone into decay about the year 172c, was
rebuilt out of the funds belonging to itfelf by the Magi-
ftratee and Town^council of Aberdeen, from 1720 to 1724,
and is, at this day, one of the neateii of any in Scotland.
Harbow^.
The extent of fea-coaft in the pariflies of Old Machar
and St Nicholas is about fix miles, and is commonly known
by the name of the Bay of Aberdeen. The fhore b flat
and fandy. The harbour at the mouth of the river Dee
was, till of late, always very much interrupted, and fome-
times almoft entirely ihut up by a bar^ or large bank of
fand, upon wh^h, at low tide, there was fometimes not
above t8 inches or two feet of water, and at the higheft
tides not more than 13 feet. As this bar was frequently
Ihifting its fituation and varying its form, according as it
was aded upon by dorms from the fea, or floods from the
river, few (hipping were in fafety to take the harbour, un-
til firft it was founded by a pilot, and the fituation of the
VoL^XIX. U bar^
154 StoHflkal Account
btfi as well as the depth of the watert aibertained. Tbefe
pbflacles have in a great meafore been remored bj the e*
reclion of a new pier, executed according to a plan fur*
niflied bj John Smeaton, Efq^ engineer* It extends in
length laoo feet along the north fide of the river, and a
coniiderable way into (he fea. It was began to be built in
June I775» and was finiflicd in Odober 1780. Since which
tioiCi however, it has received fome additions^ bj the ad*
vice and diredion of Mr Sme .too ; particularly a jetty
for flielteriog the Shipping within the harbour^ firom the
violent inrun of the fea, in firong eafterly winds. Th€ cofi
of the whole amonnted to about L* x8,ooo Sterling. This
czpence has been defrayed, partly by fome fmall foods
fiurmeriy belonging to the harbour, but chiefly will be paid
by doubling the (hore and haboor dues upon the trade and
ihipping of the place, in confeqoenoe Kit mn wEt of Parlia-
ment obtained for that purpofe i but without any poblic
aid or contribution whatever.
By the ereftion of this pier, although itis aoo feet Ihorter
than in Mr Smcaton'^riginal plan, the navigation channel
mt the entry of the harbour has been deepened and impro-
ved to a degree much beyond any thing that was previouf-
ly ezpeded. Now, fmall veflels, drawing 7 or 8 feet, can
come into the haVbonrat low water; and at high water, or
fpring tides, there is from 18 to ax fieet at the entry, as the
above mentioned bar, or bank of fand, is noW| by the con-
finement of the river, and the increafed velocity of the cor*
aent,, carried out into the fea, at leaft a quarter of a mile
fiirther than it formerly was ; fo that we now fee vefieb 4|f
confiderable burden, in the violence of a dorm blowing
right upon the land, failing with fafety into the harbour,
even without the affiftance of any pilot, which no flitp
pould have attempted before, without the greateft danger
of being wrecked on the bar» or fome parf of the adjacent
CQ^fi*
of Aherdeen. 155
edaft. Oa the nortli pier-head the MagiftrRtes have recently
ereded ^Jignalfiuff^ on which, when there is 9 feet water
dn the bar, will be hoifted* in the day time, a plain redjlagf
amd in the night a iigbted lamp and a rtflcQor. They will
continue hoifted till high water.^-Veffela will have the
harbour open when the light, or flag-ftaff bears W. and by
S. in which diredion they will ileer clear of the Shortnefs.
The beft anchoring ground in Aherdeen Bay is m fix or
fcven fathoms water, with the two town's fteeplcs in one,
or the light bearing S,W. by W. J W.— In times of great
land floods, or in any other circnmftancc which would make
it dangerous to approach the harbour, neither the Jlag nor
Ugii will be hoifted.
Natural ProduBions.
This plaee aflbrds few examples of uncommon quadm«
peds, birds, or fiifaes. The fwallow and martin make their
appearance about the end of April, and difappear before
the equinox. Moil of the fowls that commonly frequent a
low iandy fearcoaft in the northern *parts of the ifland, as
goUs, £ea fwallows, fiuid larksj herons, cormorants^ &c.
are found here.
A confiderable variety of fi(h are caught in the vicinity
of this place, as haddock, whiting, cod, ling, turbot, ikate,
flounders of diflerent kinds, halibut^ plaife, foal, mackerel,
dog-fiih, and occafionally herrings. The fiihermen of Foot*
dee and Torrie colled, at low water, great quantities of
laod*eclB, on the fliore about the mouth of the Don ; thefe
are nfed as bait. Some excellent ibrimps are got with
drag-nets in the fmall lakes or holes which the tide leaves
10 the land ; they are i(bld for about 8 d. the pint Scotch*
The market is well fupplied with fifli upon very reafonable
terms. This is a great relief to<the poor, as fiih makes a
principal part of their food. The nature of the coaft pre-
vents
1 56 Siatifiicai Account
▼ents fea-ware from growing upon it in ubimclanoe. The
quantit J of this marine produAion that may be driven to
land by fe vcre ftorms is not fo great, or of fo good a quality,
as to be very ferviceable either for manure or the mano-
faAore ot kelp.
As the parilh contains little arable ground but what ia
occupied in gardens, and thefe moftly for the fnpply of the
market, few things refpeAing agriculture, or the vegetable
fyftem, are worthy of remark. The gardens have long
abounded with common pot herbs, as cabbages, carrots,
turnips, fpinage, cucumbers, &c. The fruits here are m^*
ly of common and hardy kinds. It has been found by re-
peated triab, that the more delicate kinds, as the vine,
peach, nefiarine, &c do not in general fucceed. SmaU
fniit, as goofeberries, currants, and rafps, agree well with
the climate. The fame may be faid of the moft of flowers,
both indigenous and exotic, that are cultivated for orna-
ment in gardens in the north of Scotland. The gean and
roddan (mountain afli) are here in abundance and perfec-
tion. But the varieties of barren timber are neither very
numerous nor plenty. They chiefly confift of aih, elm,
beach, maple, birch, lime, willow, and holly, planted in
hedge* rows round inclofures. Gkirdeners have, for fome
time pad, found their account in laying out a confiderable
proportion of their ground in nurferies of foreft-trees, ss
oak, elm, pine, Scotch fir, larch, laburnum, and many
others, with which they fupply not only this country, but
fend annually many thoufands of their plants to England,
where they can afford to underfell the Englifh gardeners.
It is obferved by old people in this place, that notwith-
ftanding the great rife of the price 6f provifions, and of the
rent of land, the difference of the prices of all the moft ne-
ceffary pot-herbs and roots is^ as far as their memory reach-
es, but inconfiderable. By this obfefvation it would ap-
pear,
of Aberdeen. 157
pear, that great improvements have been made here iii the
art of gardening. In the few fields within the limits of
the pariQi are fown oats, bear, or big, rarely wheat, rje,
peafe, or beans ; which, from the general difufe at prefent, it
may be concluded that their culture here has not anfwered
expedation. Flax is fometimes tried with fuccels ; clover
and r je-grais are frequently fown ; and fome fmall fpots of
ground have been laid down with faintfoin and lucerne, by
way of experiment.
In the pariih of Old Machar are two limeftone-quar-
ries, one at Silverbum, and another about a mile north
from it on the Old Meldrum road. Neither of them have
been wrought to any great extent. Nihe men will, in ten
days, quarry and break ftones to fill and fire the kiln at Sil-
verbum. Each kiln will require 13 bolls Englifh coals,
or 18 bolls Scotch coals under duty. The average pro-
duce of a kiln is between 150 and ^180 bolls of flacked
lime, water meafure. Each boU of fliells will yield one
and a half boU of powdered lime. Such flones as are not
burnt are thrown into the next kiln. The quarry at the
other kiln b in all refpeds fo fimilar to this, that the fame
remarks may, with fufiicient accuracy, be applied to both.
The limeftone of thefe quarries is not rich ; it does not
fweli much in burning, and it has in it a confiderable pro*
portion of fand ; it anfwers well in building, but is not fo
good for manure, efpecially in fandy foil like ours. The
tackfman of thefe quarries defilled for fome time from
working them on account of the rife on labourer's wages,
and the high price of coals. Since the tax on coals was
taken off*, he has again opened them ; and when his leafe
expires, which will be foon, they will probably be wrought
to a greater extent than formerly.
Granite abounds in the parifh. There are excellent quar-
ries of it at Rttbiflaw, Loanhead, Pitmuxton, and other
places,
158 ^ Statifiicai Account
plac^a^ bcfides pkntj of oodajets in the hill of Grandliome«
The prefenc rent of tbefe amounts to about L. 80 Sterling
inouaUjt and about 100 men are conftantlj employed ia
working them ; foo&etimes more, and fometimes fewer
hands are employed, in proportion to the demand for the
ftones, Manj of thefe ftones are uled for building in Aber-
deen and its neighbourhood ; but by far the greater part
are fent to London, and there ufed for paving the flreets.
Nor b this trade likely to fail ; for notwithfianding the un-
common durability and hardneis of thele flones, fitch is the
prodigious intercourfe of carriages in that immenfe metro-
polis, that a ftreet paved with them, will in a few years be
fo broken as to require great quantities of new pave-
ment. Some hottfes in and about London hare alfo been
built of Aberdeen granite. Our granite is much harder tor
work than freefione, and is capable by much labour of re-
ceiving a very fine poliib^ It is generally of agrej colour,
and is mixed with ibining talky particles, which give it^
when well dreiTed, a confiderable degree of Infire. About
)a,oco tons of flone are annually exported from Aberdeen,
and are valued at 14 s. per taOp amounting to L.8400.
Sometimes, however, the e^cportation is confiderably greater.
Befides the granite, our land abounds with a coarfe bard
fione, which, though it may be broken by the hammer,
cannot be wrought by the pick or the ehiflel, and is there-
fore little ufed in building* Colleded in immenfe quaoti-
ties from the barren fields, which are trenched or drained in
the courfe of improving the land, it is chiefly employed in
filling the drains, or in raifing dry ftone fences for inclofing
and fubdividing thefe fields. Sometimes the quantities of
thefe whinftones (as they are called) are fo great, that
they cannot be exhaufted by fencing or draining. In thc£e
caies they are colleded in Cairns, or the fences are made
« immoderately thick. In fome grounds they are fo nmne-
a TWit
qf Aberdeen, 159
roQS and large, as to rcDder the land utterly incapable of
unproTement, even bj planting. Thefe obfervations are
not appropriated td this place onljr, but will too generallj
appljr to man J places all over the county of Aberdeen, and
|he northern part of the Mearns.
No mines have as yet been found in this place. We
have no coals but what are imported from England and
the frith of Forth. Lately an ore, feemingly rich, has been
found at the haugh of Grandhome, in digging a lead for
bringing in water to a manufadory about to be eftabliflied
there. The ore has been fmelted, and turns out to be
manganefe, equal, if not fuperior in quality to any imported
from England. There are feveral veins of it ; one of
them about four inches thick, and all of them pafling ob«
liquely between layers of hard and folid rock. John Paton
of Grandhome is proprietor of the field in which it is
foQnd*^
CITY OF ABERDEEN.
All hiftorical accounts «gree, that this city was ereAed
into a royal burgh towards the end of the ninth century
by King Gregory of Scotland, fumamed 7£r Great. But
the original charter of eredion, and all the more ancient
title-deeds and records of the burgh were, together with
the town itfelf, burnt and deftroyed by the Engliih, as after
noticed ; a very £ew charters, and other grants, however,
have been faved, the oldcft of which is a charter by King
William the Uon in favour pf the burgefles of Aberdeen,
< and
|69 Statiftical Account
and odicsB benorth the Montb\ This charter was granteil
at Perth, there called Pert^ but withoat aoy date or year,
though it nmft have been towards the end of the twelftla
centorji as that King began to reign in x 165.
There are other two charters granted by the iame King
IVilliam to the burgeflfes of Aberdeen, of the toll of tfadr
chatties through the whole kingdom, both dated at Aber-
deen the aSth Auguft, without mentioning the year of Grod
or of the King«s reign, although, from the writing and feals,
they appear to be of a later date than the former, and have
probably been granted during the King's refidence here, as
he certainly built a palace and remained fome time with hb
Court at Aberdeen. It ftood upon the fite of the preCent
Trinity Church and Trades Hofpital in the Shiprow ; and
upon King William's leaving the country, he founded in
the fiimc pj^e a monaftery for the Trinity or Red Friars,
which was burnt and deftroyed along with the town. It
was afterwards rebuilt about the year 1633, by Dr Wil-
liam Guild, minifter in Aberdeen, who bequeathed and
left it for an hofpital to decayed tradefmen, befides fome
other fubjeds for burfaries at the Marifchal College, under
the patronage of the Convener-court.
About 1306-7, (according to Hedor Boece), the citi-
zens of Aberdeen, who had always fteadily adhered to and
fupported the intereft of King Robert Bruce, being rendered
defperate by the cruel ufage of a ftrong Englifti garrifon
kept in the caflle here by Edward I. they, along with a
number of others, adherents to Bruce's intereft, furprifed
and ftormed the garrifon, and put them to the fword, and at
the
* It is fuppofed this tlludes to the Month or high ridge of hills nev to
Fettercaim in Kinctrdineihire, through which the high-road called thr
^airn of Month road pallet from Brechin, 6cc. towards the river Dee.
ofAherdeem iti
the lame time laid the caAle in ruins, to prevent the Eng-^
lifii from returning. A party of the Englifii, who hap-
pened to be in the neighbourhood, came immediately td
revenge the difafler ; hut they were met and engaged by
the Aberdonians and their afTociates, in the church-yard of
St Nicholas, where the Englifh were totally defeated, with
great flaughter.
The firft charter now extant, in favour of the burgh it-
£elf, is granted by King Robert Bruce, anno 1320, which
cootains alfo a gift and conveyance to the community of
the Royal Foreft of the Stockit. Beiides this, he granted
various other privileges and immunities to the citizens and
burgh of Aberdeen, fundry of which are ftill extant, from
1314 to 1324.
In X333« Edward III. of England having fent a fleet ot
(bips to ravage the eaft coaft of Scotland, a body of Englilh
landed, and by furprife, attacked the town of Aberdeen, in
the night time, killed a great number of the inhabitants,
and burnt and deftroyed the town for fix days together, in
revenge for the feveral defeats which their countrymen had
tbere received.
Anno X336, Edward III. invaded Scotland, and marched
vrith an army as far north as Invemels, during which time
tbe citizens of Aberdeen went out and attacked a party of
£nglilh forces, who had landed at Dunnoter, and killed
their general. In revenge of which, Edward, upon his re*
turn from Invemels, made a violent attack upon the town
of Aberdeen, put the greateft part of the inhabitants to the
fword,and again burnt and deftroyed the town« At which
time, as well as anno 1333, many of the more ancient char*
ters and records belonging to the community were loft*
Some years after the town was rebuilt, and confiderably
enlarged, particularly towards the hills, upon which the
principal part of it now ftands, vi%. The Woolmanhill, St
Vai. XIX. X Catharine's
162 Statijlical Account
Catharine's-hill, the Port-hiU, and the Caftlehlll, (the old
town having lain along the Green and Shiprow, &c. eaff-
wards)^ and in this the citizens were greatly afliRed b/
King David Bruce, for their (lead j loyalty and attachment
both to himfelf and his Ssither. The fiune King David re-
fided for fome time at Aberdeen, where he ereded a mint,
as appears from fome pieces of money coined there ; and
the whole town, after being rebuilt as above, was afterwards
called Tie New Town of Aberdeen, in contradiftinftion to
the oUf which had been burnt down.
In September 1644, during the tioie of the civil wars,
the Marquis of Montrofe, with a» army of about 1000 men,
having approached the town of Aberdeen, and fummoned
it to furrender to him, the magillrates, after advifing
with Lord Bnrley, who then commanded in the town a
force nearly equal in number to the aflTailants, refufed to
give np the town ; upon which a battle enfued within half
an Englifli mik of the Town, at a place called the Crab-
ftone, near to the Juftice-mills, where Montrofe prevailed,
and many of the principal inhabitants were killed. An
account of this engagement is contained in the council-re-
cords.
The city of Aberdeen has received various grants from four-
teen different Sovereigns of Scotland, from King William the
Lyon, downward to Kingjames VLinclufive, all extant is the
town's chartulary, and, in 1638, the whole of thefe preceding
charters and grants were, by a charter from King Charles I.
not only ratified and confirmed, but alfo the burgh was of
new erefted ; and by the fame charter the Provoft and
Bailies are conftituted Sheriffs, Coroners, and Juftices of the
Peace, within the burgh, and whole bounds of the freedom-
lands, and falmon-fiihings on Dee, holden burgage of the
Crown, the Provoft being named Sheriff and Coroner*5
principal^ and the Bailies^ SherifiSi and Coronets depute ;
which
of Aberdeen. * 163
whkb iSeveral offices of Sheriff and Juflices of the Peace
the magUlr^ea of Aberdeen have been in the conflant prac-
tice of exercifing to the prefent da^, in all caufes coming
before them in thefe capacities, and of holding quarter*
feflions fot the burgh in the fame manner as the juftices of
the county. The magiftratcs have farther granted to them
by the fiiid charter the fame powers, jurifdi&ion, and antho*
rity within the port, hairbour, and flood-mark of Aberdeen^
and whole boonds thereof^ as well as within the rivers Dee
and Don to the two bridges, as they have within the bargh
idelf and liberti^, and have always ezercifed Uiat jorifdic*
tion and authority accordingly.
The Xown-Gouncil and Dean of Guild of Aberdeen have
like^ife, by the fame charter from King Charles I. full
power and authority committed to them, of vifiting, eza-
miaiilg an<) trying all weights and meafures, ufed in buy*
iog and (elling, not only in the town, but alfo through the
wl^ole county of A1;»erdcen, which they have been, in like
manner, in the praAice of exercifing, and holding circuit
and itinerant courts for that purpofe, in the different prin-
cipal country towns, where any kind of trade or merchan*
difiB is carried on.
The forefaid charter and confirmation by Kmg Charles I*
with the wthole other writs and title-deeds therein confirm*
edy and rights and privileges thereby granted to the borghy
were afterwards fokmnly ratified by different a£b of Par-
liament of Sootlaiid, particularly by two ads in 1641 and
i68k.
from the 1336, when the town was laft burnt, to the
1398, there does not appear to have been any public re*
cords regularly kept. But from the laft mentioned |)eriod
to the prefent time, (except for about twelve years in the
beginning of the 1 5th century), there is a regular and unin*
termpted icries of records of the a£b and proceedings both
164 Siaiiftical Account
of the Towo-council and Bailie-coutts, all in good order
and condition, confiding of above 70 volomes, remaining
in the town's chartulary, containing in whole a conncded
period of near 400 jears.
Before the Reformation, there were Ceveral chapcb with-
in the burgh and rojaltj, annexed to and dependent upon
the parifli-church, particularly St Mary's Chapel, onder the
Eaft Church, where the Highland Congregation now meets
for worihip \ St Catharine's Chapel, which ftood upon the
hill of that name; St Ninian's Chapel at the Caftlehill,
part of which (till remains, and St Cleinent's Chapel at
Futtie, which has been lately rebuilt, and is fiill occupied
as a place of worfhip under the patronage of the council.
There were likewife mpnafteries of feveral different or-
ders of friars, eftablifl^ed in Aberdeen, befide the Trinity
and Red Friars already mentioned, viVb. The Black Friars
in the Schoolhill, where Gordon's Hofpital and the gram-
mar-fchool now ftand. The Carmelite, or White Friais*
along the fouth fide of the Green, and the Gray Friars in
the Broadgate, where the Marifchal college and church
are now fituated.
The batteries erefted by the town in 1781 and 1782,
for defence of the ihipping and harbour, have coil about
L* 12 00, and they have mounted upon tliem ten new iron
cannon, 12 pounders. The town has likewife two bra£i
field pieces, 3 pounders, with a proportionable quantity of
ihot and ammunition. They have alfo 400 ftand of iinaU
arms or muikets depofited in the town's armory, and kept
always in excellent order by a tradcfman, who has a yearly
falary'for that purpofc.
With refpe& to the prefent municipal conftitution and
form of government of the burgh of Aberdeen, which has
now fubfified, and been invariably obferved for no lels than
^irp centuries downward to this day« It is founded chiefly
of Aberdeen. 165 '
upon the a& of Parliament 1469 and 1474, bj which all
cftfficers and members of the conncik of burghs are appointed
to be annually elefte(l : ^ That the auld council of the
'* town (hall chnfe the new, in fie number as accords to it ;
^ and that the new and auld councils together (ball chufe
** all the £ud o(Hcer8 : That ilk craft (ball chufe a perfon of
** their number, that (hall alfo have a vote in the eleftion
^ of the officers, and that four worthy perfons of the auld
^ council for the year before (hall be chofen yearly to fit
**> with the new council/' It appears, however, that the(e
afis of Parliament were not in any part obferVed by the
town-council of Aberdeen for above 120 years after they
were pafTed. On the contrary, they perfifted in following
what they called the ancient form of government and auld
confuetude of the burgh, by which it appears, that the num-
bers of the members of council often fluftaated, and yaried
very much, from 20 to 36, and that, when once they were
eleded or a(rnmed, they were in general continued during
their life, or fo long as they did not differ with the perfons
who had aflumed them ; and that the five firft magiftrates
or officers of the burgh, vi%. the ProvoR, (^for many years
flyled Alderman), and the four Bailies, were alone eleded
annually at head-courts of the citixens, called Curia Capu
taUsj although fometimes without mentioning by whom
the eleftion even of thefe officers was made, but for the
moft part ezpre(red to be cum communi omnium lurgtnfium
ctmftufu ft ajfenfu ei votot which eleftion,' however, was
equally illegal, and agatnfi the direAions of the afis of Far*
liament, as the continuing the members for life.
This ancient cuftom was at laA, 1590, openly challenged
snd complained of as arbitrary and^ illegal by a Mr John
Cheyoe, then a member of council, who infifted, that they
^ould make an annual eledion, in terms of thefe flatutes,
irbich they not only refulcd to comply with, but expelled
him
l66 Statifiical Account
bim from the couqcU, as a perfon unfit and improper to be
pf their number. He was, however, foon joined by a Mjt
ErV^en, find man^ other burgefies of equally patriotic priiw
ciple^, who raifed a profecuiion againft the magiftrates and
council before the Courts of Scilioa and ^xcl^equcr, with
concurrence of his Majefty's Advocate, for obliging thena
to comply with the terms of the forefaid ftatotes. Tba
coiifeguence of which w^, that the cwncil at lafi, in OSo-
ber 159^, (after lamenting the fall of what they declared
to be the auld confuetude and ancient form of Govemiacat
of the burgh), agreed to follow the direfiiona of the faid &a-
tutes, and accordingly made an eleftton in the terms there-
pf for the following year, ending at Michaelmas 1599.
It appears, however, that Mr Cheyne and his afiToctata
did not get into power, upon the new conftitution, which
tl^ey had the merit to produce, and that at the enfuing Mi-
chaelmas they aflembled in arms in di£brent parts of the
lQwn» in purpofe to overawe the proceedings of the council ^
for compofing of which violent animoiities, a conference
enfued betwixt a certain number of the council and the
leaders of the citizens, the refult whereof happily produced
a fubminion by the Deveral parties concerned, qf all the
matters in difpute betwixt them to his Majefty King
James VI. as overfman, and twelve others as arbitrators ;
ivbo, by a decreet-arbitrali^ of date 9th December 13919
fubfcribed by them and the parties themfelve s, in teftimony
of their ;tpprobation ; fixed and appointed the m^agifirates
and council for that year, ending at Michaelmas 1593 bj
name, confiding of nineteen perfons, v/s;. feventeen guild*
brethren and two craftfimen, and ordained and appointed
that the ads of Parliament concerning the election of ma*
giibrates, council, and office-men within the burgh, ihould
be predfely Qbferved in all time thereafter.
This
of Aberdeen. 16 j
This decreeNarbitral vrhs^ in a few days ifter Its datCf
read to and unanimouflj ratified bj the whole burgefles
and citixens of the town, convened together for the pun>
pofe, who, at the fame timey folemnlj fwore to obtemper
and obey the decreet thereafter in all points ; and which,
with another decreet-arbitral, pronounced by the commilBon-
ers of Burghs in July Z596, finding the craftfrnen entitled
to ten votes in the annual ele&ion of the magiftrates, dean of
guild, and treafurer, forni together what is now called the Sett,
or Municipal Conftitution of the burgh, which has been uni-
formly obferved as an invariable rule and (landard in the an-
nual eledion of magifirates and council to this day. By it the
conftituent members of the town-council confift of nineteen
in number, feventeen whereof are guild-brethren, and two
[ of them deacons of crafts. Four jof the merchant-council-
lors only are continued by eleftion for another year, and
the remaining fifteen members are annually changed and go
out, and all of them are yearly eleded, without any pre-
ference or difcrimination, from a roll or lift of the whole
burgeiTes of guild in town, and of the fix deacons of trades
previoafly made up for the purpofe, from which the leets
of the new council are taken, and determined always ac-
cording to the majority of votes of the council, upon the
day of the annual eleftion, which b held upon the Wednef-
day preceding Michaelmas day.
After the eleftion of the nineteen members of the new
council, the magiflrates and office-bearers for the enfuing
year are eleded the fame day out of the feventeen' mer-
chant-cotmcillors by the majority of votes of the new
and old council together, and fix deacons of crafts, con-
fiding of forty perfons in whole, viz* thirty guild-bre-
thren, and ten craftfmcn ; and in cafe of an equality of
"votes io any of the flops of ele£Hon, the Provofl^ or fe-
nior magiftrate prefent, has a decifive or cafting vote,
befides his own individual and proper voice* In cale any
of
l68 Statijlical Account
of the thirty guild-brethren, or of the ten trades, be ab&nf
from the eledlion, the town-council and the craftfmen are
rcfpeftively authorifed by the fett to elcft any other quali-
fied perfons of the fame clafs, to fupply the place of, and
to vote for fuch abfentees. Upon the whole, it is believed,
from a comparative examinationi that the prefent munici-
pal conflitution, or fett of this borough, will be found not
only to be a perfed contraft to its own more arbitrary and
ancient fjftem of government, but alfo to be much more
liberal and free than moft of the other royal burghs of
Scotland ; becaufe, in many of them, fome of the members
of council, and even magiflrates, do ftill continue in office
during life, or fb long as they agree with the party in
power ; and in others, feveral of the members of council
are entitled to keep their feats without eledion for.a fecond
year, in confequence of their having enjoyed certain offices
for the preceding ; whereas, in Aberdeen, every magiftrate
and member of council, even the old four, muft be annually
elefted, without regard to any office which they may have
formerly held, and fifteen of the whole number are yearly
changed, and go out *.
The laws refpcfiing the police of the city are contained
in an ad of Parliament, granted in 1795. According to
this aft, thirteen perfons are to be elefted and appointed
commiffioners by the inhabitants of the city. None, how-
ever, can have a vote unlefs he pays at leaf! L. 5 yearly of
houfe-rent. The Prdvoft for the time being prefides at
the eleflion, and has the calling vote. The commiffioners
continue in office for the fpace of two years. Eight only
go
• The principal liiftorical fa^s in the above narrative, which do not ap-
pear in any of tiie town's records, are taken from a fmaU treatife, entxdcd,
«« A Survcf of the City of Aberdeen," printed Mid publiflied in 1685, under
the fignature of PbHo-^oUtinfj.
4>f Aberdeen. 169
go oat ftl the new elodioD^ and fiVe remaiBy which five
fhall invariably be of the nnmber of thofe eight commiC*
fiooen who were ele^d two years before, and Ihail be
cho&n to continue in office by the coUedive body of the
other commiffioners, by figned lifts to be given in by a ma«
joiity of them tb their prefics or clerk, fourteen -^ys pre*
vioitt to the then next ^eral meeting for ekSien; fe as to
pre&rve as nearly as .p<^ble an equal rotation in duty.
Thefe ooimniffioners have lidl -power to nominate .and ap-
point treafurers, clerks, colIeAors, fcavengers, lighters of
hmpl, and other fervants proper and neceflar y tihder them
in the execution' of their offite. This oJEce refpeOn chiefly
the paving, lighting, and cleanmg the ftreets, and fnpply-
ing the city with water* 'The mtmey neceflary for de-
fraying the expence in executing thefe public matters is,
by the aft, to be rsifed by an afleflment upon the in6abi-
tsatsofthe city of is. Sterling in the pound yearly fbf
every dwelling*houfe, or ihop, cellar, warehoufe, or other
building within the city and royalty, aftually occupied and
pofleflcd at the time by any one perfon, which ihall be efti-
mated at or above L. i, 5-8. Sterling of yearly rent. A
xent-roll of inch houfes, &c. is to be annually made up by
fifteen perlbns chofen for that puipofe. This atfeflment is
to be paid by the tenant or occupier of the houfe ; and if
the money thus raifed is found not to be fiifficient for an*
fwering the purpofes of widening and improving the ftrcQts,
and anfwering the other purpofes of the police for which
the aft was obtained, the commiffioners are authorifed and
empowered to raife and increafe the laid'aiTeirment of i s.
Sterling in the pound of houfe-rents yearly (for a certain
nnmber of years then to be fixed by fuch general meeting
of die inhabitants) to any fum or rate not exceeding i s. 6 d.
Sterling in the pound annually of the houfe-rents afore{iaid.
This police-aft u to continue for th^ term of 2z years, and
Vol. XIX. Y from
syp St0tyHc0l Atcount
4watimt»¥t^v4 of the ifani aezt feftNi «f Atfln'
PMIt.
From ^ Uft tWKtntt dK roots •ppour <• be L. is«5oo
It i« apt kiwfm thtt there an mi aat snjr xwondg wfasch
ip^tain (Ins teae nHt\m p^pwlgtioo «f iki»dif tt esyidtasiir
porio4f Tbb p0(nil«4ii9n, h^wt^er* •wing chkfljtii tho
I9pi4 profrffc 9f mtnufaflnfcft, kae gftsatljrucfMfecl trfiUs
tbeie 40 yean. In 17559 »PQor<ii>g feo i)r Wdifar** ao^
^Hiaf » ir im» lP»4S9f k «ppeaii, a«09f4iag cp liAft tolcM
IIP l»j oilier of tba miaiAerB yi 17899 that eke smber of
fo^ ia wbat I* oalle4 St Nkbdae pariibt aaioainad to
i£,38(S. Aecor4ing to a lift of the wihabtoiats. withift the
ftrid lu&ita of the cttji «as dmded inm fenr qoarteta, taken
la the month of July ^^9Sf by a eootmitiee appoiniod by
^n a^ pafled ii| the left ftflion of Parliamont, fcr flriakiog op
the firft rent-*rol), and fuperiscending the firS nloftion of
foma^iSooecs of pe|icf, the popniatian waa aafiaUonra :
^/M^. iFtntiei. Under xotvmi- TftaL
$ven Q^arteir, 1548
Foot Pee Quaater^ loaj
Qreen (garter, 87a
Cirooked Q^artefi 9387
Totals, 4830 7601 3689 ^ x6yi20
. From tbr rogilier of baptifmsy which, owing to the ne-
^led of Diflentersy aii4 other caulc?, is extremely defieOive,
no accunite lift of birdis can be obtained ; but, aecprding to
an eztrad from, the baptifmal regifter, Xach aa it 19^ the an*
nual average fron^ xft October 1771 to xft Odober 1790
amounted to no more than 149. As no regifter o^ burials
IS kept here, the number of deaths is not known. The
annual averaj;e of marriages, as Uiken from a pretty exaft
regifter, is about izi.
Of
*}%%
tlj3
5«5»
1534
744
Sjoi
»495
647
SOU
fftae
214^
4753
tf Akerite§,
171
Of tlie ancient fiate of the population of OldMachar
tbe feffion-recofds make na mention. It iB^ould af^peaft
however, from the many houfts that, have lately been
boQty and nunnfadnres eftablifiied» thai the population hus
greatly increafed within the laft 50 years.— The population
in I755t accordidg to Dr Webfter's account, was only 4945*
In tbe year 1790 it amounted to Sio^, of whom 3555 were
males, and 457a females; of th^fe, there refided in the
city of Old Aberdeen, including the Spittal, 1713 ; in the
town frfGilcomftooy 1134; and in the country, including
tbeTiQag^a st WindoMUbrae, H^rdgate, Bridge of Don»
and PmtfieMy 4x6o« As* the numbers iir thv hft men-
tioned villageB are not, in the minifteia lifb^ difiinguiflied
from ifccfe in the adjacent parts of the country, it is impof*
£ble, with any degree of accuracy, to feparnte them hero»
lli# MMn90# 01 narrioges, uaptxims, occ* tn the parim ee
Old Macfhar wiH be feen in the following tables x
TkUg tftlt Bapiifms^ Marriages^ and Burials in the Parijk
ofOtdMacbarfor Tttn Tears after tbe Tear xyal.
Aioirrtages*
Baftifms.
Burials
wOi/|
^
MaClarCi.j^J.^
t
1.1
i
l
f
1
1
3
«7»3
7
u
27
s<
35
93
38
i<^
. 6
100
«7M
lA
7
6
25
64
49
I '3
51
4»
17
n6
n«$
3
10
rs
s»
4«
rcj6'
55.
54
10
ri9
17U
II
S
16
35
4*
i4#
.r.
J^
4«
a
112
\^
13
»3
3a
61
47
53
37
^
69
a
4
II
31
4;
%
V
4»
35
5
- 82
»7«f
3'
«4
33
3*'
^4
41
<S
It
"7
rm
a
16
30
4*
S9
8*
3«
3»
6
7«
■•731
—
—
—
—
43
4*
85
37
19
8
84
»73j
"-
—
—
—
3»
37
69
3«
4»
• 6
80
7x^
ii
97
111
aS4
441
9?6
4A3.
446
.5^1
955
20
o The Uft two yean are wanting in the re gifter of marriages, and there-
1x1 tie total is only for ci^ht years, dedudling the number in the fccoful
iolamn as properly belonging to ot^er parilhes, the total for 8 yean will be
7Z
Statiftkat AecomU
^O ^6 >o a» cl^ Oft «a a» ob o»
» X O >C OQ.^ 0\tr\ 4> o«
^ cn €0 i» M p\U* «o a^vQ
Os »» w «eot o M >o »» O
CO oe<st w> <#* N4 Crt ^ « \M
a»'3.?"S<?5g;it
«o^ M^^ M\et«t<a Oi
• 4\u o «•«»
C4 »ao*o>c;(u>c»»cn MO«
•ftasft-6*a'fe?irt
refidinz in
the panfli •
refiding in
thci
refi.
diofin the
Toul of sft
tndjd co-
IVOIAS*
I:
8
Gntnd totu.
VO o^ Qs ONtr» >4 vX Cn V#« U>
•1 so««» o» >e •^ «»a Cn O O^
Males.
T"
.r^^aaa^.'Si^.^l^
•feKt^t.tt'Sft*
to
U* en '•^ >0 M ov ^4^ C*» O
^ P »° ^ •** *"^ ^ 00 CO
Totftf.
0\ O »»^ •f' «0O «OM
i»OMOmhOOmm
U >6 M M ^ •-• ^o C9VO M
4^ M^OHUiQ-^^ •« M
;5i
0» M
Malei.
Fonals.
eevf o ^o»<>44kta« 00
Ot 4k. .^ Ln OsO» ^ ^ ^ .
known.
Total of xft
and id co-
lumns.
^^^^4^
^^^^^j
Grand totaL
r
2»»' »a <0
» C^9^^
4 M M »
t^Cfi^vo «oO «bO I
«*» ^i 0\V» - 4i, o» o» -^ S;
0^0^^*
»i|At»iai>ii»h>l.>t»
1 M M
I I I M
Mill
lint
r I
V Males.
Females.
M |> »• |» !»■ b»-»>
Sexna-
linown.
Total of lit
and sd co-
GnmdtXMaL
Sex un-
known.
Tboagh
; i^AJbmrde^n. ^ 173
Thioagh the preceding tsiblef ar« as accurate as can be
mfKle from oar regtfier9». they are bj no means perfe^j
corTed. ' That no perfon roaj be mifled bj forming calcu-
lations from tbemy I have therefore deemed it expedient to
iabjoin the following remstrlcs : — From the regifter of mar«
riages I have given in the firft column of the tables the
namber of marriages in iv.hich the man only reiided in the
partih; in the feoond. colamny the number in which the
woman only refided in the pariih^j^din the third, ith/e.
nooiber in .whi<^ both parties belonged to the parifli* . A$
in moft roarriage|» ip wl^ch th^ pames refide in different
pari(heS|,the woai^an is fappofed to leave he;-own» and to go *
to her hufband's parifh, I c^mfider the foorth colomn, which
gives the f i^m of the firft and thirdi as conti^iniag the num<*
ber of marriages which properly belox^ to thi$ pariih, -iU, *
however, feveraLinfiaoces.ha've occurred, in which the man-
has come to refide in the parifli of the wpman^ this mode of;
reckoning may not be perfe^y accurate \ I have therefore,
cbolen to add the fecood and fifth columns, thatxvery per-
Ibo m^ calculate frpm the tab]e upon.any principle hemajf
incline to. adopts I. mud f)airther obferve, that the number
of marriages mentioned in . the table, efpeciaUy during the >
laft ten years, is.confiderably ihort of the truth. This is
owing to.many loofr apd diforderly perfon^. who are ;an«
nually fined for irregular marriages by the juftices of peace. .
In fuch inftances the .ignorant parties always confider; the
magiSrate, and avowedly fpeak of him as the celebrator of
the mairiageji They are tempted to have recourfe to this
ahfiml and irregular, ipethod of obtaining marriage, becaufe
It maj he accompIi(hed with greater fecrecy and expedi'* .
tioo than by obfcrving the -legal ceremonies. It is there*
fore frequently adopted in this place, .when the confent of
parents cannot be obtained, when the woman is pregnant,
or when .prudence, or the laws of the country prcTeot anj
obftacle
174 StMt^imt Accnnt
oMbdedMtwooMfioporreCiidtlieaiiiriige. IkMvm
iaftMoe in t neigbbmiriog partfli in wlttdi pwdtt wiikia
the forbidden degrees of oonfimgDiniry were thai OMrricd.
When % yooog coopk meet with any obOade to thdr
iimon^*->wheo, from wantomieft or hnmOur, they fpom all
xegtthr fivrmB,— 4nr when they are too impatient to wait for
proclamations^ they apply to the procnrator-fifeal to get a
jttftio^ of peace to marry diem. He inftmds them to tell
the jnftice that they were married at foeh a time, but to re*
ftife to name the cdebrator and witneflTes. Whereapon the
jodge Hrft decerns thea^ to pay the legal fine ; and netc,
upona reprefentatioa of their poverty, &e. by virtoe of hia
or their power as jviBce or jnfticea of peacet modify this
fine, fotoetimes to half agoinea, fometimes tojs. and fame-
times even to much leb. They get an extraft of thi& fdi-
tence, pay the procnrator-fifeal, and the eeremoay is over.
Can any idea be moae ridicokns, than that a peffim flioiM
apply to a poblic profecutor^ pay him, and be inftnided to taU
a lie to the magiftrate, merely to get himfelf pnniflied far a
crime, which he is confiaons he never committed. Many
of thefe poor creatnres are afterwards fo aftamed of this
farce, that they apply to dieir parifli-minifiers to be tegn*
larly married. To what length the abfmil and wanton ir-
regolafity of juflice of peace marriages, as they are calied,
may be carried, and what diforder they may introdnce into
f($dety, if not checked by the Legiflatnre, it is hard to fay.
> Sorely the laws againft irregular marriages were intended
to prevent, not to enconrage fnqh pra&ices. While, how-
ever, they are thus executed, if this can be called execnting
them, they are fo managed as to defeat their own end. I
know of no chnfe in all the a£b of Parliament rehtiog to
fudi marriages that permits the jufiice to mitigate the fine.
On the contrary, they are expreUy appointed to fabSitute
certun corporal punifliments in place of the lepil fine, when
die
^ ^ AUrdftn. .175
tfce panics are wabje to pay it. XC iJ^ejr wooU adlums to
this altemfttive^ the laws would be r^ftored to.tbcir proper
cfficapy, and this braocb of their jorilili^oii would fooQ sf-
&rd them vecy little employment* But while they affiirae
powers, with which they do mt leem to me to be eDtnified
bj the laws of their countryy I vfk onder a nieceffity of cw^
fidertog them as aOiog ia theie iaftaiices, aot as the goaf^
diaos of order, but «b the perverters of the law, «ad the
pramotsfs of c^^on.. We have here {pme joftioes of
iperdy grow^ ; but: I F^d be wantivg ia caadoor, if \
did aot ackaowlegtt that the realgaiikmm of this coaaty
bava io geaend eon$d^ed it as beaeath the di,piitjr of tbeir
cbaiaAer to take aay concera in irrcgalar marriages, that
they aaifbrmly refide fiieh applicatioas, aod that whea fpcb
af|4ieatioos have been made to them, their good advtoe
has often prevailed with the parties to have reeoarSs to tha
forass wbieh the laws of the cooatry prefcriibe*
As to the regifter of baptifms, no tronblc has beea fpared
10 render it correft. The two parochial mtaifters ieldooi
bepti£e a child, without caofiag the psreat briag aa atteflan
tion, that be has paid for having his child's naaie r^giflared ;
aad the ounifter of the Qupel of £afe keeps an aocnrata
lift of the children baptiCed by him, which he iends annual-
ly to th(e iei&oa-elerk. Several peiibns are aUb employed
to procure infoqaatioa of thole who are baptiiiBd by difleat*
ing dergymen^f different deaomiiiatio^ Notwithfianding
all this Q^stt feveral baptifms annually occur, which are not
recorded. Befides, the ebildren of a very few Quakers who
are never baptifed, aod Come who are either bom dead, or die
lb foon after their birth that they cannot be baptifed, can-
not be mentioned in the regjbfter of bapt^ms. The anaaal
births in the pariih muft therefore exceed the numbers
4i|t^ in the tableSj 1 fuppoie, by a do^ca at leaft.
Thert
1^6 Ste^yOcal Account
There are Aree burymg grounA in Old Mcdiar, die
• chorth-yard, the Sptttal borjing ground, belonging to
Alexander Moir, Efq; of Scotftown, ind the Snow church-
yard, belonging to the King's College. Of the bnriab in
the two firdy tolerably correft regifters are kept. Of tbe.
Imriak in the laft, no accurate account can be had, but by
'fearching the accounts of the common procurator of the
Colleg^^y bj whom- 1 am infermed, that the average num-
ber of burials m it doed not exceed two in a year. This
burying ground is ufed chiefly by Papifts; I could find no
regifter o& burials iot the Spittal during the two firft pe-
riods meatiooed in the tables ; I have therefore in&rted for
tfaefie periods only the burials in the pariih church«yard,
snd thbfe in the Snow church-yard in a fingle colnnm, en*
titledi Sex unknown. The number of burials for the Spit-
tal church yard may, however, be afcertaihed and infcrted
in the blank taUee, by calculating from the proportion of
the average burials in the church-yard to that of the Spittal
burying-ground during the laft ten years, and in this manner
the average number of the whole burials in the pariih for
the firft two periods may be found. In all the regifters of
bnriah fome inftances occurred in which the fex .of the per«
fon buried was not afcertained ; in thefe cafes, either the
fimame (Xily of the perfon buried was mentioned, or the
keeper of the regifter charged himfelf for the huriatiair{p2LVt)
of a child, without mentioning whether it was male or female.
To afcertain with any tolerable degree of accuracy the pro-
pordon of the fexes buried in the pariih, I was therefore
obliged to infert in the tables of burials, in diflind columns,
the numbers in which the regifters mentioned the fex ; and
to ihow the whole ntmiber, I have added a third column,
entitled, Sex unknown. I have only to obferve farther
with regard to the burials^ that many who die in this pariih
ate buried in other pariibes^ but that a far greater number
are
of Aberdeen. lyj
art bitmght from other pariihes, efpecially from Aberdeen,
and buried here. This is owing partly to their forefathers
having lived, died, and been buried in this parifh; and
partly to the bnrial lairs being mnch cheaper here than in
Aberdeen. From the manner in which the regifters are
kept, it is impoifible to determine how many of the per*
fons buried belong to the parifh, and how many are firan-
gen, otherwife I flioald have marked this diftindion
by inferting their refpe6tive numbers in feparate co«
lomns. By thefe obfervations it will appear, that no cal-
cohtions refpeding the general population of the pa-
rifli can be juftly founded on the tables of burials* and
diat the rule of multiplying the burials by 36 would lead
us greatly to over-rate the population of the place. But as
by hx the greater number of firangers buried here are
brou^t from Aberdeen, and as the fame caufes render the
number of females in both places fuperior to that of the
males, calculations from the deaths, intended to elbbliOi,
not the real number of people, but the proportion of the
fexes adnally living in the parifli, though not accurate,
will come nearer the truth.
As the numbers who annually come from other places
to refide in Old Machar are greater than the numbers who
emigrate from it, and as the number of baptifms inferted
in the regiRer falb ihort of the real number of births in the
parifli, the rule of multiplying the number of births by 26
would lead us to under-rate the population of the place.
As in this infiance, the errors Ariiing from this mode of
calcnlarion are eafily accounted for by the daily influx of
ftrangers into a large city and its neighbourhood, perhaps
thefe paXc9 for ascertaining the population of a country
nay be found to hold with fufficient accuracy, if the births
Vol. XIX. Z upA
178 Stat\ftual Account.
and bnriah for Aberdeeii, aad a large diftnft rowd it» are
taken into the acomuit.
With regard to the population of this paiiih, it nay be
proper farther to obferrei that firom what is already cdca-
tioned, it appears that the females exceed the males bj
Z0379 which is more than an eighth part ef the whole
number. That this remarkable dirparitj in the number
of the diflerent fexes reallj ezifls in thu parHb is e^idcat
from the minifter's rolls, which are as accurate as the veiy
flttduating ftate of the people in lb populous a place will
admit of. It cannot be e^Iaioed either by the births or
burials. For from the preceding tables it appearsi that dn-
ring three diftinft periods often years each, the number of
males bom in the parifli has coofiderably exceeded that of
females. If they all had continued in the parilh, the ba-
lanoe ought certainly to have been in favour of the nsales,
which is the reverfe of the hlBu If thu difparity were
owing to any extraordinary mortality among the males, it
couM only be temporary, and would appear by their form*
i^g a majority in the regifier of burials, which the ta-
bles ihew to be alfo the reverie of the b&. It may,
however, be. Cuisfadorily explained by the following ob-
fervat ions : Moft of our manufadures, efpeciaUy the bleach-
log and thread-making buiinefles, employ a much greater
number of women than of men ; and the great manu&c-
tore of the place, the knitting of ftockings, is carried on al-
moft entirely by females. Accordingly, while moft of our
women remain at home, m&ny of oui* young men emigrate
to other places, in queft of more lucrative employment
than they can find in this part of the country. Befides, the
temptations of cheap and c(»Bmodious houfes, of eafy ac-
cels to fuel, and to all the necefiaries aad comforts of life,
from our vicinity to the port and market of Aberdeen^ and
of
of the high probability of finditig e0)pl(i;^fiieot &om fom«
c£At many tnaoufiiQures carried 00 in the neigbbourbood^
iadooe many old women, and many of the widows and
draghtefs of farmers and tradefmen, to leave the country,
and rofide in this pariib, wiiik their (bns have either fettled
as farmers in their native place, or gone abroad, or ente|[cd
into the army or navy. If to thefe obfervations we add,
that in all parifhes, in which there are feveral large towns
and viUages, mod families need more female than male for-
vants, the majority of females in this pariih, great as it is,
^will be fuflSciently accounted for.
The annual average of baptifms for ten years immediately
after 2722, ia90^; for ten years after the 1752^ 89^1
and for ten years after 1782, 124-,^. To this average 12
at leaft fliould be annually added to make up for thofe not
inferted in the regifter.
The annual average of burials for ten years immediately
after the 1722 is, in the parifii church-yard, 95iVt ^^i i^
the Snow church*yard, 2 ; for ten years after the 1752, ill
the parifli church-yard, 57tV» *°d in the Snow church-yard,
2 1 for ten years after the 1782, in the parifh chnrch-yard,
104-^, in the Snow church-yard, 2 i and in the Spittal
chm^h*yard, 2411*9 ; in all, 348^.
The average number of marriages properly belonging to
the pariih for eight years immediately after the 1722 13,
251V » for ten years immediately after 1752, it is 331^^
aad far ten years immediately after the 17 82, it is 51. In
calculating the above average of marriages, tho£e in whieh
the women only refided in the pariih are excluded, and no
allowance is made for the jufUce of peace marriages, feveral
of whidi annually occur.
Ft0B the above ftatements of tha population of the city
and parilhes of Aberdeen, it appears, that the whole in
3 iX790-9S»
rto
Stat^al Accoma
1790^59 amounted to 24,493, making an increafe, if Df
Webfter*8 accoimt is to be relied on, of no Ie£» tbaa 9060.
The people in general are indttftrions and fober; andnoc
a few arrive at an advanced period of life. Several wo-
men died latclj above 90 yean of age, and one above
loo*.
Tbis
• StaU rfthe Popmiaiian o/tbe Tvwm cf AktrUtnfnm 1758 to 1770.
X7S9.
1760,
i7^i#
176a,
17^3.^
X7^4i
17«S,
I7^<5.
«7^7.
i7«.
2769,
^770.
«4S8
^444
6366
^S34
J634
6898
7«5^
7308
7*4S
7757
7795
8133
$551
EpifcopaL Seceden
Pipiib.
Quakers.
Jndfpff*Vf?^
orGlaffits.
1787 -
iti
«7
45
1717
1619
s6i
"3
19
^%
^95
"7
33
57
1907
y>i
«37
42
3S
Z846
170
115
18
»3
189S
188
Z18
18
21
AOlft
310
«34
12
«7
Z968
334
115
»7
*3
1938
3«9
134
17
»7
10S9
33«
«37
14
29
1067
34«
140
«S
3»
. ^164
354
158
'5
29
2l6«
303
"7
*7
a7
TotQf
perfi
8468
8639
8707
«93«
8916
P*3»
9^61
9775
10090
10328
10390
«0853
ZZX98
J^Miari/.— The above Hate compvehcnds the three paftoral charges int*
which the town of Aberdeen is divided. Thefe, together with the village
of Futtie, which (being under the charge of a diftin^ catechift, who has
' lutberto beeli ordained, but not reckoned a miniiter of Aberdeen) is not
included in dus Hate, make up the pariih of St Nich<to. It comprehends
none of the extenfive fuburbs weft and fouth from the Denbam* they ha-
ving belonged to the deanry of Aberdeen, and now to the parilh of St Ms-
char, commonly called Old Machar, or Old Aberdeen. In thefe there has
been a very great increafe of inhabiunts within th^ laft forty yean.
The above ftafie takes in, not the number of foub, but only of exami-
nable peifona, as the minifters included not clvldren in their lifts. They
leckoned them examinable as foon as they had learned to md» and could
flmfwer |fome of the common queftions; fo that their lifts contained
St leaft all perfons of fhre years old and upwards. In calculating ftom
tiiefe^ the number of foub, it is to be dbferved, that in Aberdeen (and
peihapi in moft towns) the number of children bears a left proportioo to
that of fouls than in countiy pariflie^ ; one reafon of which is, that many
aged perfons, particularly (ingle women, retire to towns, and accommodate
Cfacnfelvei ia iinaU rooms. Hus is foubd to hold in Abefdcen; for one of
the
of Aberdeen. 181-
This town and neighbonrhood is not remarkable for an j
nacommon or epidemical diieale. A certain kind of po*
trid Ibce throat* howevery raged lately, and cot off many of
the
the fflioiilent for ^ few yean of the above period, took an account of the
whole foals in the part of the town onder his eharge, and was furprifed that
thofe under the examinable age were fo few in comparifoo. Fioin his lifia
the number of fonls in the other charges might have been nearly calculated,
but he negle&ed it at the time, and as he has been dead for fome years, we
do not know whether kny of his lifts can be now recovered.
The incrriife of inhabitants during the above period arofe m a good mea-
fare from the intrcMladion and eztenfion of manufadhirrs, and alfo firoin
the great demand for ihmes for paving the ftrceu of London; which
brought a nmltitnde of labourers from all parts of the coimtry to Aber-
deen and its neighbourhood ; and after that demand (Iackened» many uf
thcfe remained with their families in Aberdeen, as a proper place for ob-
taining employment as day-labourers. Many Ukewife, who have come up
as patients to the infinnary, have, after being cured, fettled with the lame
▼iew. Hiefe circumftances have alfo contributed to a great increafe of por
pulation in the adjacent parts of the parifh of Old Machar.
For fome years previous to the above period, there had been' a confidera-
ble increafe in the population of Aberdeen, owing chiefly to the introduc-
tion of manufadlures, but partly alfo to the extenfive cultivation of land*
fbrmeily wafte in the environs, which found occupation for many addi-
tional hands.
Aberdeen affords a fignal confirmation of the vaguenefs of conjeAuxal
accounts of the number of inhabitants of a town, and of its always hx ex-
ceeding the truth. For, during the above period, the urrlter of this account
happened to aik a gentlenAn who had been in a public ftarion for near fifty
yean, and had beftowed fome attention on the ftate of the town, What
was in his younger days reckoned the number of inhabitants > And what
the proportion between Prefbyterians and Epifcopalians } His anfwer wa^
that the examinable perfons were always reckoned at leaft 10,000 ; and the
Preibyterians and Epifcopalians nearly equal in number: But for a few
years previous to the period of the above ftate, there had been a very great
increafe of population, (in one of the three paftoral charges in one year, n^
le6 than about 500), and yet at the beginning of that period they fell far ftioit
of the number (pedSed ; and through the whole period the PreAyterians
were nearly to the Epifcopalians as 3* to i, and to all Diilenters together
(of whom the Secedcrs were originally Preibyteriass) as 2* to one.
lS2 ' StatiJHcal Account
die young of both fexes. In the jesr 17^9, Ae geBntne
DyfenUria broke out in Fooctie« tod raged with coafiifo-
rable Tiolence- The onlj check to it that proved efedaat
was by removing the infcded perfons into a temporary
faofpital, where they received medical aid, and every necef-
lary accommodation at the public expence, the money
being raifed by fublcription.
The provincial dialed of the EngUfh, which at fjtmt^
rally fpoken here, is not commonly confidered as being
very pure. Owing, however, to a much greater inter-
courfe with the Englilk than formerly, a fenfible change to
the better has taken place in the idiom. Some old peopk
remember when many broad Scotch words and phrafis
were current, even in the bcft companies, which are now
fcarcely ever to be heard in the loweft. The confideration
alfo that this is a place of education, the feat of an uaiv«r«
fity of confiderable eminence, has proved an indncement
to fieveral, efpecially to thofe who have entertained thoughts
of pttbliihing in Engliih, to make the proper idiom of the
language more a matter of ftudy than was ever done at an j
former period, a circumftance that has not fiuled to pro-
duce good eSeds.
Whatever may have been the original language of the
inhabitants of this place ; and whatever may have been the
changes which at different periods it has undergone, it is
undeniable, that for many centuries back the old Scotch
dialed, whofe affinity to the Englifh is manifeft, has been
the language, not of this place only, but of all the eaftem
coaft of Scotland. Now, though the oldeft names, fuch as
thofe of mountains, rivers, towns of high antiquity, and
trafts of country, are probably, as was already hinted, from
the ancient Britiih ) and though fome names of a lower
epoch, from the intercourfe of the inhabitants with High*
landers, or Ifiih Scots, are doubtlels from the £rfe \ yet by
far
4(f Aberdeen. 183
fax the greateft number of names of places are from the 0I4
Scotch dialed^ which has been now for many ages the laof
goage of the country. Not any more remarkable inflan-
ces of fucb derivation in this parifb can be given, than the
names of the ftreets of the town, the principal of which are
the Caftlegate, the Braidgate, the Overkirkgate, the Ne-
therkirkgate, the Gallowgate. Add to thefe, the Gaift*
raw, the Shipraw, the Rottenraw, the Dubbyraw, the
Chcckeraw, the Narrow-wynd, the Badc-wynd, the Cor-
refidoo-wynd* Thefe. with Putachie's-fide, and the Green,
are almoft all the old names of ftreets and lanes in the
town. We cannot give a better example than in this very
tbiog of the ad|pnces noticed in a former article, which we.
are daily making towards Englifli. We almoft never hear
now of the Braidgate and the Caftlegate. They are become
nnivcrblly the Broadftreet and the Caftleftreet. The Gal«
lowgate, for what good reafon we know not, has not yet
Ihared in this reformation, for nobody ventures upon Go^
iowftrat. The Kirkgaies too remain the fame as ever*
They are never called Cburcbfireets^ though we more com*
mooly fiiy the Upper than the Ovir Kirkgate. There is
little or no change made on the other paftages called wynit
and raws. Only it is to be obferved, that in all thofe
which have been made in the city or fuburbs for at leaft
fifty years paft, we have neither ^o/fi nor wynds; they are
all JlreetM and lanes. Thus we have within that period
got $iueen'Jlreet^ MarJhaUfireet^ Ncrtb-^treet^ Shoe-lanif
Juftice-lanef lie. i^c. If the fame hamoor prevails in
other places of the country, we may conclude, that
the words gate and wynd^ occurring in any compound
names of the paftages through a city or town in Scotland^
win ferve as evidences of an antiquity higher at leaft than
the middle of the i8th century. As to the names of the
Sew bills, gentlemen's featSi &c. lying near the town, they
appear.
] S4 Statijlical Accoufit
sppear, as £ir as we can difcover, to be of the lame origiiL.
Thus Ferry-hUL, FrofterJnll^ (the word Frqfier probabljr
corrupted from Forrefier)^ HUiou^ Robflaw^ King^s-tceilr^
CouniefC-wtOsy Wbiiemires, Some are more obfcure in
their orxfpn^ as Pttmucifton^ RodrieftoHj Twry^ Futtie^ i^Cm
Of this laft it was obferved, that fome refolve it into Fooi^
Dee^ the foot of Dee. But this is diredl j contrary to the
common rule of analogy in the derivation of words. Whea
an j thing is exprefied bj one word in our language, (and
this holds in both dialeds^ Englifli and Scotch)^ reprefent-
ing it as a part or member of fome other thing, that other
thing makes the firft part of the compound name, and the
part or member makes invariably the laft part. Thus di^
mouth of the Wey is Wtymoutb^ not Mouibwey ; and thmt
the Scotch, in this formation of words, is the fame with
the Englifli, appears from fome names of places in this
neighbourhood. Thus we have Loanbeadf not Htadhau^
for the head of the loan or loaning ; Craiglug^ not Lugcraig^
for the lug^ that is, the ear of the craig. If, therefore^
thej mean to call the place the foot of the river, it woald
have been unqueftionablj Btefoot^ not Fooi-Dee. But we
are not even certain that the mouth of a river is either in
Scotch or Englifli ever called theybo/.
RccUJtaJiicdl State of Aberdeen.
The two principal churches of this citjr, which at pre^
fent are called the Eq/l and Wejlt were forrtierlj called the
Old and New Churches. The church which flood where
the Weft Church now ftands was called the Old, and is fup-
pofcd (though upon what evidence is not certain) to have
been feveral centuries older than the other. The ftile of
architeflore, though both were Gothic, was very different
from that of the Eaft (formerly called the New) Church,
ftUl ftanding, and which likewife is of an uncertain date.
The
^f Aherdftn^
»8i
The Old Church was paUed do^n, and reWlt| about the
year 1754.— The College Chtireh belonged to the Grey
Friars, and was purchafed b^ the Magiftrates from the
College. There is no account wheil it was built.
In the cit^ of Aberdeen are three parochial charges^
and one la the village of Futtie. There are two charges
in Old Machar. The exaft ^ue of the livitlg is L. 126
Sterling /«r awmm to each parochial minifter, without any
manfe or glebe. The patronage ia vefted in. the Magi-
Orates, and Town-cooincxl for the time betrtg.
The foUowing table contains a lift of the miniftets of
Aberdeen fince the year 1673 :
1673 David Lyal.
16S0 WiUiam BUin
2716 John Olbura.
1749 Thomas Forbes.
1785 Duncan Shaw.
1673 Pat. Sibbald.
.1686 Andrew Bucnct.
1696 }ame& Ofburn.
1703 Colin Campbell.
1719 James Ogiivic.
1776 Wm. Faiquhar.
1779 James Sheriffs.
1^73 George Meldrudi.
1681 George Gordon.
1694 Thomas Ramfay.
1700 llio. Blackwall.
171 1 Francis Mclvil.
1716 James Chahnen.
1728 JobnBiflet.
1757 Geo. Campbell.
1771 Geo, Abercrombie»
X791 Hugh Hay.
Bciides the parochial churches, there is a chapel of eafd
io the College Church ; another in Futtie ; one lately
joined the Eftablifliment from the Relief; the Trinity Cha-
pel of Eafe, and the Gadic Chapel, all belonging to the
£fiabli(hmeDt.-— In this place are three congregations be-^
longing to the Engliih, and two to the Scotch Epifcopal'
Church.-— Of the Seceders, is a congregation of Burghers^
aad another of Antiburghersi and one belonging to the Re-
lief..^*Hcre the Roman Catholics, the Methodifts, the Be^
reansy and Independentsi have each a cor(grcgation.<-^The
Quakers have a meeting In this place : and ^ hoofe ha^
lately been opened, and occupied as a place of worihip by
% Dr Chandlen
Vol. XIX.
Aa
Smt
\$6 Statical Accwm
Siate of tie Poor.
The number of poor at prefent in Aberdeen, who re-
ceive fiated and occafiooal fiippltes firoai public charitable
fundsy amounts to 481 ; befidet 25 boys, who are main-
tained in the Poor-hou£e. The funds appropriated for their
ufe are at an average about L. 829 Sterling f^r amnum*
Of this fum L. 2x0 Sterling are allowed for the fnpport of
the Poor-houfe» in which are a mafter, mifireft, and fer-
vants. to fuperintend the education, &c* of the boys. The
fum of L. 15 1» 5 s. of the remainder is allotted to the ex^
dufive management of the kirk-felfion, which, after pay-
ing the falaries of their officers, thej diftribute among poor
families^ who have no ftated fupplieafirom other funds.
Hofpitab, Infirmary y 6r.
The inhabitants of Aberdeen fecm to have been alwajs-
diftbguiihed :fbr geoeroas and humane adions. Several
very ample mortifications and donationa for pious and cha-
ritable purpofes were made by difl[erent perfons, belonging
to this place, in the laft century. But as a full and accnrau
account of thefe cannot be given^ notice ihafl only be taken
of (bmc, which have been made fince the beginning of
this.
Robert Gordon, merchant in Aberdeen, by deeds of
mortification, of date I3.th December 1729, and the a9th
September 1730, founded an Hofpital for the maintenance
and education of indigent boys in Aberdeen, being the fons
and grandfons of borgefies of guild, or the fons and grand-
fons of tradefmen of the faid burgh, being freemen or bur-
gefles thereof^ and fi>r the purpofes of it he affigned his
whole eftate, perfonal and real* to the Provoft, Bailies, and
remanent members of the Council of Aberdeen,, and the
four minifters of Aberdeen, whom he appointed perpetual
Patrons and Governors of the HoQiitaL
X 'Mr
tf Aberdeen. iSy
Mr Grordon having diej about the year X73i« his af&g-
i obtaiDed pofleflion of liis funds ; and from the produce
x>f them parchafed an acre, and bdk a proper houfe for the
Hofpitak When the foods had accumatated to a proper
degree, they took in boys, and the inftituti(m has gone tm
finoe with remarkable faocefi ; and there ase at prefent
flBatntained, clothed, and educated in it 60 boys, at the an-
imal expeoce of upwards «f L. 1000 Sterfing, which the
<3oTeraort are now enabled to afford, by the early pnrchafe
•of laods^ and afterwards feuing them out to great advan-
tage*
The branches of -education tanght «i this faofpital are,
Teadiag -Eoglilh, Englifli-grammar, writing, arithmetic,
book-keeping, the elements of geometry, atnrigation, geo-
graph J, French, chureh-mnfic; and fbch of the boys as dif-
cover E genius for it, are inflruAed in drawing alfo. Thefe
4>ranches of education, together with a proper inftruftioQ
in the principles of the Chriftian religion, are carried on
under the dtredion of three mailers, who conftantiy refide
in the hottCe \ tho drawing mafter being only employed
<wcafionallyY and mofily during the fummer ; and the ma-
iler for chorch-mufic attending twice'or thrice a-week.
The boys muft not be under nine years of age when ad*
tnitted into the Hofpital, and muft leave it at 16 years of
age. They are put to proper trades, under the direftioa
of die Governors ; L. 8 : 6 : 8 Sterling are allowed for ap«
prentice-fee -, and, upon finifliing their apprenticeihip, they
nre allowed each L. 5 Sterling to ailift them in entering ia-
to bofineis.
Anmo 1772, the Governors judged it proper, for remo-
ving objedions to tlieir management, to apply to his Ma«
jefty for a -charter of incorporation, and it was obtained, ih«
corporatiog them under the name and title of, Th9 Pr^fideni
^amlGavernan ofRobtrt Gordon's Hojpkalitt Abtrdnn.
Anno
j«8 StatiJ^l/fcMunt
tion of er&Siiag ^i^ Infirmac/, in iVb^rde^Oi for rtb« bene&t
of the difeafed, iu ^U tibje,:nQithcrii p^art^, of the kingdom.
Forcarrjmg this purpofe into e^jecutioo^ fub{pripuoo$ were
fat Qa fooiV ^nd the freU diiipofedn;^ere^ foltbefftl in pro-
^QlUflg this luous deiigDy th;|t -^ .part, of the rhoufe for. the
juxomrnQd^tioii <}f ^padeiits ^as §nip\t4 attm>:xf4^'i in a
plaio but deceqt manner^ Aiv ^44itioii was made tb tbe
jhoufe 00190 17459 \^y whicb (bey vre^e enabled, tor i»dmit «
greater n^Ribfir .of patitrots. i iin4 ^ft«:iyfMrd% &oi|i Jdte great
number of patients who applied, they were under tb« nf-
fieifity of addjtig another jtvipg..,ia,lAe year Xf^^ o J9 the
year 177a, t.b^y appli«4 ^o.tbo QrAYtn for, ^ ph|^|t«d«
^ha^rter of incorporalioQ. *" ♦, , ,.;..: v..
; The xuun^er p( thofe admitted. in&Oi jlb^ . In&f 0rfci|[j'^Minu-
jfdly,:at au avera|;e for thr^ years {^/l^ atnouDts t.Q ii2$*
^Out patients. receive advice and medicioes. to (he. number
p£ about 3500,
The ai|.Qa^ .expence of the hou£e, at ao ^iverage for fome
jyears paft, Jha^ ^aoiouDted to L. 1300 bfevling, Their fixed
funds are about L.. 400 Sterling; and for the other L. 900
they depepd ppon coUedioos through: different parilhes,
find upon donations.
jiana j^T^^) Baillie James (!raickfbank, merjchant in
this cicV» represented to the n^anagers, that fotpe perfons,
defirou^ of promoting the ppofpericy ^nd fuccefs of the la-
firnaary, (but who wiih to xemaia UQknown)| bad refolved
to eafe it^ in ^ great meafurei q^ the debt it then laboured
under, by paying a fum of L. 500 Sterling for that purpofe.
He alfo informed them, that fome perfons, had iigreed to
piiake a donatiqn of L. 1500 Sterling, to be flocked for the
benefit of the Infirmary, and the inter.eft thereof for ever
IP be applied for the ufe of the patients in general; and be
defired
t>f Aberdeen. X89
defired thac.iib'lHiBlic notice flioaldle tsfkeir of thbfe doni-
tions in the newfpapers.
A fiw jit%u ago, a day-labourer, WiUiain Mnk, yiAio a
good many yetir^ago'^had been a patktit in* the Infirmary,
and reosiTed1>cncfic:fron) it, had gtVen to the Infirmary nb
lefi a film than L« 135 Sterling, as die beginning of a food
ibr boflding a fnnr vjatd^ referving f to himfelf, and Ms
wife only, if (be fnrvive him, the intereft of the abbirt
fom, andhe fiill cootinoes to work for his own and fitmi«
Ij's fub£aeiR:a.
'Ann^ 174I9 Mr Jdtin R«chart of AchHecant, by a deed
• 4>f feldem^nt, of d^e the ^oth of Odober, ordained, that
Rafter the payment ^i certain legacies, mentioned in faid
deed) the r^ltidndef ^f his executry flioald be paid towards
endowing an Infirmary and Work^hoofe in Aberdeen. Af-
ter the death of Mr Richart, it was fomid that the remain-
der of his efiate, aftei> paying all the legacies mentioned in
his will, amounted to about L. 417a Sterling, one half of
tvbich, VMS. L. 20M Sterling, was to be applied towards
endowing a Workhoufe. For this purpofe the Magifirates
aad Councir (the executors of Mr Richart's will) bought
the ground*right and ruins of an 6ld tenement tA honfes
and a garden, and afterwards repaired iaid houfe, and built
fome additions to it, at a confiderable ezpence, all of which
was pud» partly by the Magifirates, and partly by volon*
tary contributions from the difierent corporations, and from
private individuals in town, without breaking in upon Mr
Richart's mortification.
To the above mortification the Magifirates added a morti-
fication under their management, legateed by Mr John Kemp,
<yf the parifli of St Martin's in the Fields, in the county of
Middletex, apothecary, anno 1713, the annual produce of
whiob is aboat L. 48 Sterling, and defiined by the morti-
fler
190 Statifikal AcctnM
i«r for vitioti^iiiAg a iirec-ldioQl lor cdociitiBg and Iniog-
ing up poor children.
.TbeJPgorVUoQiiial was opened the laft day of OAober
V74X, for the reception of iiach idk and flrolliog vagrants
te fliould be fbond in town, and . the poor inhabitants, who
bad no vifiUe way of earning their bread ; alfo far boys
«nd girls, the children of poor inhabitants, and for deftitnte
erpbans, who had no relations to take care of them. Every
perfon in the hoiife was to be employed in work or laboor
•f fome kind, according to their firength and capacity.
The children to attend the ichool in the hoofe for certain
hours every day : the boys Co be taught reading, writing,
arithmetic, and inftru&ed in the principles of Chrifiian
knowledge, and bound to trades when they came to a cer*
tain age. * The girls to be taught knitting of ftockings,
and other branches of female education, to qualify tbem for
being good fervants. The various kinds of labour carried
en within the houfe were, picking of oakum, beating hemp,
carding and fpinning coarfe wool and flax, manufafturing
coarfe cloth, and knitting dockings.
The managers of the Hofpiul were the Magiftrates and
Council for the time being, and fome of the mod refpefi-
able inhabitants chofen annually by the Magiftrates and
Council out of the diffisrent focieties and perfuafions. After
carrying on the inftitution on the above plan for fome
years, it was thought more proper for the health of the
poor inhabitants, to allow them, at their own houfes, what
the charitable funds and contributions could afford. Ac-
cordingly, the manufadure was difcontinucd, and the num-
ber in the Hofpital is now reftri&ed to 15 boys, who are
maintained and educated in the houfe, and are the fons of
poor inhabitants. The annual expence of the houfe amounts
to about L. 2 to Sterling, which is paid in part from the
annual produce of Mr Richart and Mr Kemp's mortifies^
tions,
Hf Aberdeen. i^t
doosy md the deficiencj from oiher monies belonging to
the poor*
Anno I759t Alexander Michie, wright in Aberdeen,
difponed a tenement) confifting of two froall dwelling-houfcs
and a garden, in £|Vour of the Poor's Hofpital, which now
rent at between L. i x and Xi. la Sterling annuallj.
Mr James Man, mafter of the Hofpitaly who died anno
1761, afker appointing certain legacies to be paid by his
€zectttors» or to the amount of his effeds, ordained the re<
matnder to be paid to the managers of the Poor's Hofpital,
to be pat out at intereil, and the annual rent to be fpeciallj
applied to the pajing of apprentice-fees for the boys, who
flionld be brought up in the hoofe, and bound to trades*
The amount on Mr Man's effeds (after paying all his lega-
cies» debts» and funeral charges) was L. 95 Sterling. The
intereft of this fum was allowed to accumulate, titt the whole
amounted to L.aoo Sterling, the annualrent of which is
now applied to paying apprentice-fees for boys,, brought up
in the Poor's Hofpital, and bound out to trades, at the rate
of 10 s. annually for each boy during hb apprenticefliip,
which is generally fix years.
By an account we had from the late clerk of the Poor's
Bofpital, anno 1784, there were no lels than 36 charitable
focieties in this town, befides the corporations ; and their
anooal diA>urfements to the poor, amounted to L. 1183
Sterling.
Mr John Burnet, late merchant in Aberdeen, did, by a
deed executed by him, February i. 1785, difpone to the
minifiers of Aberdeen of the Eftabliflied Church, and the
other members of the kirk»fe(fion of Aberdeen for the
time-being, and their fucceflbrs in office, and four other
truftees named by himfelf, and a delegate to be chofen from
the Infirmary and Poor's Hofpital annually, two*thtrds of
^ yearly free produce of the lands of Kionadie, and others
mentioned
f93 Staifftk^t Recount
IDeatUMied in the deed of mottificftiioo^ for the relief of
fach perfonsy lining in the town and parilh of Abetdeea
oMfyi ^bo are unahle to fiifiain tbemfiBlves, and who are
bedrids, or afflided with bodily difeafes, that are fiippofed
to be incurable, and failing fuch, for the i^Uef of any other
fick poor people, and particularly fuch as are af&ifted with
lingering difeafies ; and fiiiling fuch, for any other indigent
and poor people, and particularly the aged, living in the
town and pariih of Aberdeen, •
jiMno 1782, November ad, a fubfcription was opened
for obtaining a fupply of grain to the poor of Old and New
Aberdeen, and, in a few weeks, to the great praife of the
inhabitants, as well as relief of the poor, the fubfcription
amounted to no lels than L^iyaS, 13s. Sterling. Two
gentlemen were fent to England topurchafe grain : A com*
mittee was appointed, and met once a- week, for attending
to and relieving the diftrels of the poor while it continued :
To encourage importing meal, peafe, flour, potatoes, boun-
ties were granted ; the ordinary cuftom on meal was dif-
penfed with, and the price of the meal lowered from time
to time, and given out in proportion to the numbers and
neceffities of the poor families.
j/nno X787, three fifhermen were drowned in attempting
to eater the harbour of the Cove. A fubfcription was
opened for their widows and children, which amounted to
L. 36 : 17 : 9 Sterling.
uinno 1790, May 17th, a boat belonging to the Cove, in
the pariih of Nigg, and neighbourhood of this city, was loR.
Five of the men in the boat were married, and left widows
and 25 children ;' the fixth man was unmarried, but left an
aged mother, who, in a great meafure, depended upon him
for fubiifience. The CoUedii^is andfubfcriptions made for
them in Aberdeen amouuted to L, 103 .-4:3 Sterling.
Mr
i^ Aberdeen. 193
Mr James Thain, merchant In Aberdeen^ about three
years ago, made Ofver to truftees named by him Im 400 Ster*
ling ; the intereft he appoiptp as a ialarj for a mailer, who
fkall teach the children of" the poor of this city reading,
i^ridng, aad arithmetic, and inftruA them'in the principles
of the Chriftian religion, without demanding anj fees from
ihern* Forty boys and girls are taught at this fchool,
and the worth j founder, who is ftill alive, frequently vifits
it, and is more happy in ob&rving its continued iuccels,
than if he had received a much greater fnm to himielf
than he has given fd^ this laudable inflitution.
Difpenfary.
The Aberdeen Difpenfary was inftituted in the year
1781, for the purpofe of attending, at their oWn houfes,
fnch patients as could not be admitted into the Infirmary :
It is fupported'by the boofity of the public, and is under the
ynanagement of contributors; Dr Gordon, the prefent
phyfician, has had the charge of it for ten years.
The utility of the inftitution to the poor will appear
from the following abftrafis.
But it is calculated to be extremely ufeful in other re-
fpeSs ; aamdy, as bein^ an excellent fchool for the educa-
tion of medical fludents, and on account of the ample field
it pxefinits for obfervatlon, and the acquifition of prafiical
knowledge, affording, of courfe, the heft of opportunities
for improving the {cience of medicine. To make it ufeful
in all thefe refpeds has been the ftudy of the prefent in-
cumbent, and the public will judge of his fuccefs from the
annexed tables.
His fnccels is very confpicuous in acute difeafes, but
efpecially in fevers. What led to this fucceis was the fre-
quent occurrence of that dais of difeafes ; Tor other difeafes
•ccurred only occafionally, but fevers oonflantly. The
VOL^XIX. Bb hutnan
194 Siaii/Kcal jfyccuni
boman body is liable to be uShBed witb many dtfealiea mij
once in life, but it may be» and often is, ivpcatedly aflEsfied
with fevers. Hie fiudy of £evers, therefore, enga^ Dr
Goi*don's particular attention, and the numerous ttlcs wbacb
every daj OQcurred, afforded ample ibope for obfiBrvadon.
He wss mortified to find, that the method of treatment
commonly pradliied, and recommended by the mod oele-
braftd nuklerm proftffon^ fo frequently fiiiled of fisocefs^
and that many more recovered, when left to the efforts of
unafflited nature, than when treated according to the moft
approved rules of art. He was therefore naturally Jed to
entertain fufpidons ^th refpeft to the propriety of thoie
rules \ and was foon ccmvinced by obfervation and ezpe*
riencc, that it was impoflible for jiim to be fuocefafnl in the
treatment of fevers, without imitating the method by which
liature cured them. For which pnrpoCe he made it his bu-
finefi to pay particular attention to nature's operations and
metnod of cure, in order that he might make that mothod
the model of his prafiice. Andhis pradice, when thus re-
gulated, was attended with great fucceft, and enabled him
to make fcmie very important difboveries with regard to
the nature and treatment of fevers. Tbefe diicOyeries he
propo&sto lay before the puW, as foon as he has fulfilled
his engagement to hb pupils^ who have urged him to p|i-
blifli a test-book| which he is preparing, and will Xbon have
finiflied.
The method which was foimd fo efficacious in the core
of fevers, was applied to many other acute difeafes npoa the
fame principles, and with iimilar fucceft, as may be ieen
from a perufal of the tables already referred to. This ibsli
glfo be laid before the public as fpeedily as polfible.
At prefent, it (hall only be ob&ryed, that the general prifl-
^iple which pervades and guides the whole of .his praftice
is to imitate and follow the footfieps of fligture, to nuske srt
^bficrvicat
^f Aberdeen.
193
fublervient to nature, and tbrory ta praAice. This method
is oot new, though of late, too much negleded ; for the
fame principle has been tlie guide of all grezt fra&ical piy^ .-
JUiams, bocih of ancient and modfecn times. And it is by .
this method only that the art of phjfic can be improved
and brought to.perfeftion. It is not to be improved byhy-
potheles and ingenious theories formed in the clofet, but bj
obfervarions accurately made in the chambers of the fick*
The aimexed tables are excraded from the records of the
Difpenfary, which contsun^ every patient's name, date of
admiffion, age, refidenoe, difeafe, cure, or death, with the
names of the recommenders ; and all the recommendations
are numbered, preferved, and profented, along with the
bo«ks,to a general meeting of the fublcribers for examina*
tioa, by whofis orders the returns are annually printed,
and difperfed among the citizens of Aberdeen. The re-
tnnu of 1794 afford a melanchcdy proof of the power of
pvejudioe ; for in that year 35^ or more than half of the
deatlia were of the natural imidl-poZft notwith (landing Dr
Gordon had given public notice of his readings to inocu-
late gMOa the childioi of the poor*
TABLE I.
f. an Alrflna of the PttioMs admitted' t» dw bmefit of Ae Abcf-
dccn Bilpealaiy, for nine ihccaffive jean.
»«r.
1786
17B7
1788
1789
1790
1791
X791
1793
1794
.
No. idaitted.
«33»
14x0
t437
1309
1048
i59i
1489
X150
iiS3Totxa9«5
Naoncd,
1*77
1348
1379
*"7,
I9»5
«537
*44l
xix6
10B9
11319
Ko.d^
tfi
62
58* ,il
133
5f
48
34
«4
eo6
TA
BL£
ig6
StMifHcal Account
TABLE n.
SbtWmg die State of die Btfeifcs whidi occurred in die year 17^^/
DISEASES.
Feven,
^ Scarlet Ferexs,
Eryfipelas,
Inflammatory (ore diroat,
Inflnensa,
Small'pox,
Meafles,
CnmcoQg^ •
Fltties,
RheumatiAoy ••
Flcurify,
Pcripneumony,
Cholera,
AfUima,
Dropfy,
Stomach compUmli,
Worms,
' Accidents,
Various otber complaiatt.
Admittid.
Cmd.
Dead.
190
aS4
6
61
5«
3
10
ao
0
«3
«3
0
a
«
0
^
55
1%
9
9
0
- 79
70
9
39
39
0
»7
»7
0
«5
15
0
56
53
3
4
4
0
So
45
5
4
4
0
54
54
0
19
«9
0
49
49
0
470
447
«5
noporuoBi
I m 4S
5
f
10
^ a«
TABLE m.
Shewing die State of the Difeafes which occurred in the year lyfy.
DISEASES.
Fevers,
Scarlet fever,
Eryfipelai^
Iiiflammatoty fore throat*
Malignant ditto,
Influensay
Small-pox,
Ghtncougb,
Khues,
Hhcumatiiin,
Plcurify,
Pcripncnmony,
Afthma, • .
Bropfy,
Stomach complaints,
Worms,
Accidents,
Various Other compUinti,
f»
Adnittdl.
Cund.
Dead.
38a
367
X5
«3
IX
a
a
a
0
«4
*4
0
3
a
X
3
3
0
67
49
x8
9
8
X
37
37
0
26
26
0
7
7
0
^
37
59
4
7
X
X
0
^7
67
0
xa
X2
0
65
65
0
5«5
57»
14
PrapQitioa.
\ 1 1
o
o
I — 3
o
X — 3
X «^ f
o
o
X — 10
X — 9
o
o
o
o
X — 4<
^T A B L E^
^Ahcrdetn.
tpy
TABLE IV.
Sltfwiiig the State of the Di(eaft« which occimed tn the yev' 178^.
DISEASES.
F\tven»
ScarlA fever,
Eiyfipeltf^
Infltmmttoiy fore throat.
Malignant ditt^
tnftuensa,
SmaU-poxi
ChtckcD>pQai,
Blleailes,
Chincoagh,
tluxci, -
Rheiunatifhi,
PkiiiifT.
PeripoeunMnj,
Cholria,
Dfopfj, - •
Stomach eompUnti,
IVonnft
Accidents,
Variooi other complaint^
Admitted
CuRd.
Dead.
348
340
8
30
a6
4
6
6
0
*5
a4
z
6
6
0
55
55
0
33
»5
.8
6
tf
0
%o
20
0
ax
x8
3
. 43
41
2
IS
'5
0
7
7
0
<4
«4
0
X
z
0
70
70
0
a
a
0
79
78
z
3
3
•0
45
44
z
558
SaS
30
Propoition.
X m 43
X — 7
o
z ^ as
o
o
« — 4
o
o
X .— 7
z — i az
o
o
o
O
o
I — 7^
o
z -^ 4S
z «— 18
TABLE V,
Shewing the State of the Difeafes which occoncdin die year Z789.
DISEASES.
FCVtfSy •
Scariet fever.
Childbed fever,
Eryfipelas,
Iiiflsaunatoiy foreduoat.
Malignant ditto,
Inihienaa,
Ditto of inlanti,
Stnall-poz,
Chidcen-pos.
Meaflcs,
Chiocoogh,
FloJies,
Rheontattfin,
Plcuriry,
PeripaeniBOny«
Cholen,
pfopfy. , •
Stomacb complauitif
^)|flicnat QCDtXttOllt
Worma> *
M^f ctflencvB
Tahous otlKT coi»pbiBt»t
Admitted*
Cuied.
Dead.
'a35
03
2
3
3
0
6
3
3
7
7
0
as
25
0
60
37
43
z
z
0
68
68
0
'7
13
4
1
z
0
35
34
z
3*
30
a
73
7«
'3
16
»S
z
4
3
z
»S
a4
z
z
z
0
60
47
13
4
z
3
<54
^4
0
7
7
0
5
5
0
«?
27
0
S33
.4jtf
35
Proportion*
z m XX7
o
t — a
o
o
X -*• a
o
o
X — 4
o
« — 35
I — x6
Z — 24
z ^ z6
« — 4
» — *5
o
« — 4
3—4
o
o
o
o
X - n
TABLC
x$f8
Staii/Hcat Accoma
TA3XE yt
te State of the ])ifittii» wfaiclk Oficuned ia Ae fear I7|0(
DJSEASIS.
Scftrlet feller.
Epidemic childbed fefer^
£|iidqnuc etyfipelai,
IfiflammAtory tore diroat,
Milignant ditto,
AuricuUr Bort^catiofi*
Infliimn among infaiMs,
SmiU-poz,
Chicken-poB, «
Chincottgls
Mmapiy
Fluxes,
Kheumatifiiij
Plennfy,
Afthm«, .
Diopfy,
Stomach compkims»
Bifiiciiit dofttitioD,
Worms,
Acadcnta,
Yaiioua other coo^lakitSy
Admitted.
Cmd.
Dead.
613
608
«5
«8
as
1
«3
IS
. 54
Sa
',8
P«
39
34
7
4'
ao
19
111
3^
*5
5
6
»5
aa
z
t
41
3fi
33
33
34
^3
>9
18
a>
a
76
5?
17
9
6
176
i7«
te
S4
la
II
63
61
490
45^
34
FtepORlOB.
t m 4a
I — 9
« — 3.
o
o
« — 3
I — it>
' — 5
o
— S
— •♦
— 19
— 4
— 3
— • 10
— la
— 3^
— 14
TABLE Vnft
Shewinf the State of the IKfeafet which occoned in the year 1751.
DISEASSS.
Fevcis,
Scarlet fjever.
Epidemic childbed ferer.
Epidemic eryfipeks,
Inflammatory fore throat,
Malignant ditto.
Auricular mortitation,
Small-poz,
Chincough,
Mumpi, - ••
Fluxes,
Rheamatifin,
Fleurify,
Teripneumony^
Afthma,
Dropfy,
Stomach complaiiits,
Difficult dentition,
j^idemic perlpnouaony,.
Worms,
Epilepiy,
Accidents,
^ Yanooi csher complaiatif
Admitted.
€ured.
Dead.
3SO
349
I
7
7
0
28
«7
K
4»
40
50
50
4
3
i '
a
4*
6a
41
5<J
19
19
3*
3tf
4
4:
la
la
60
59
iitf
107
«9
i»
t%6
"7
S^
41
3a
3X
5
5
6
6
••q
60
60
S44
53«
ProportioiL
I m 350
o
X — at
I — 4C
o
« — 4
o
« — f
I — 10
o
o
o
o
'l — to
I — 13
I — 19
X — 14
X — 5
I ^ 5»
o
o
o
I — po
TABLE
qf jiberdMi^
TABLE Vm.
Oewiiv the State of the DHeaiet wbkh occaned k die yetr 1792
DISEASES. .
Adniitted,
Cored*
Deid.
* ittportion.
¥evcf%
aoo
198
2
X m 100
48
' 44 i
4
X •-• za
CbiUbcd ferer.
5
5
0
0
Eryfipelaip
x«
xa •
0
0
It^imnuitor^ibre ftroat,
14
%•
0
0 ,
Malignant ditto.
• 10
1
» — 5
X — x
Aiirictilar Mortificttion, !
t
0
X
Influennv /
Co
60
0
0
Smatl-pos,
10
61
9
X — 8
Chickeo-poz,
xo
10 -
0
0
CllUIGODg]|, •
»o
x8
a '
X *» zo
Flaxes, • .
50
5«
0
0
Rhnimitifm,
h
• 38
0
0
Pleurify, .
l«
zo
X
X — XI
Pcnpneiiiiioayy,
6q
10
59
10
z
0 ,
z — tfo
■0
Xftlima, , .
So
73
7
I — zz
Dropfy.
XX
XI
0
0
Stomach complainfi^
88
88
0
0
Difficult dentition,
85
34
X
' — " 35
Wonns,
zo
xo
0
***
0
Accident^
50
SO
0
0
Various other complainti,
638
6ao
z8
» — 35
«9f
TABLE IX.
Shewing the State of the Dtfeafcs which occumd in the year 1793,
DISEASES.
Fereitf » •
Scarlet fever.
Childbed fever,
Eryiipelas,
Inflammatory fore throat,
Small-poK,
Meaflc9»
Chincoagh,
mnoips, •
&idemic dyfenteiy, "
yw ipfleaiwooy^
Dropfy,
Stomach compkinti.
Difficult dcodtton, •
. W^onns, •
E^lepfy,
Accidents,
Varioos other cofaphunti^
Admitted.
Cured.
Dead.
aa8
an
4
z
I
* 0
a
X
X
xa
la
0
xo
10
0
3
a
X
iS6
«54
a
«5
xa
3
a
a
0
«4
80
4
»5
«5
0
3
3
0
S6
35
X
47
4»
5
6
6
0
41
4«
0
35
H
0
6
c
0
a
a
0
»5
35
0
413
400
«3
Praportioii.
X u 57
o
f — a
o
o
« — 3
I - 78
« — 5
o
z — ax
o
>•
I - 3«
X — 9
o
o
o
o
o
o
I — 3a
TABLE
zoo
StatiJUcal Account
TABLE X.
Sbewitig the Stste of the Difeafcs i^ch ocanred ai 4ie year 1794*
DISEASES.
FCVCTSf
Scarlet fettr,
Epidemic childbed fever,
Epidemic ery^elu.
Inflammatory wtt throatf
SmaU-poz,
Chincouf h.
Mumps,
Epidemic dyfeotierf ,
Rheumatifia,
Fleurify,
Cholera,
Dropfy,
Stomach cootplaioti^
Difficult deimtioiw
Wormii
EpUcpfjr,
Accident^
Variotti other complaints.
Admitted.
Cured.
Dead.
8tf
82
4
a
a
0
9
9
0
n
15
0
' %6
%6
0
^l
39
0
•i
X03
35
4tf
4
•4
4
0
80
80
0
S7
S^
X
10
10
0
9
9
b
f*
S«
4
11
ta
0
44
44
0
3»
19
3
la
11
0
3
3
0
3«
3«
0
41a
409
13
Propoitioii.
t u at
la
— 57
— IX
— 3»
■vrr
Meuttjfathriu
The principal manufa&ire of Aberdeen, prior to the
year 17451 was knitted dockings which were mo&ly ex?
ported to Holland, and from thence difjperfed through Gerr
many. After that period the Unen-manu&Aure was in-
trodncedy and brought to confiderable perfedion.
The fpinnitig of linen-yam in diis place, for maauiiic-
tnres, arofe from a fmall beginning. Some patriotic gentle*
men, a few years after the battle of CuUoden, being defi-
rous to fpread thb ufeful art more excenfivf^ly in the
northern diftrid, applied to the Board of Truftees at Edin-
burgh, who fent a woman here qualified to inibuft others
% is
€f Aherdefm aot
in the art of fpinning* She was accompanied with all th#
implements n^celfary for her purpofe. As a proof that
her exertions were crowned with fucccls, it may be obfer*
ved that the fpinning of linen-yarn has arifen in this town
to the extent of nearly loo^ooo fpindles/ft^r annum. This
is accompliihed mollly by the wives and daughters of me-
chanics and labourers, and procures them a yearly income of
aboat L. jooo Sterling. Much Unen-yari^ is befides brought
to Aberdeen from the country round to a coniiderable ex-
tent. The quantity, however, of linen-doth made here
and in the neighbourhood is very fmaU, owing, it is be-
lieved, to the Irifh, who have engrofled the greater part of
that branch of trade, both at the Englifb and foreign mar<>
kets, not on account of the fuperior Quality of* their goods,
but of the encouragement given by their Parliament to the
linen-manufafhire, which enables them to underfell us even
in our own country. A coniiderable quantity of the coar-
ier kinds of this yarn is exported to Perth, Dunfermline,
Glafgow, and other manufaduring places to the fouthward^
Meffrs Collifon, Thomfon and Company, of this pdace, lately
began the manufacture of brown flieetings, olhaburghs, and
laiUcloths, and are the only manufacturers of fuch goods here.
They have already, by unremitting attention, brought their
brown (heeting and ofnaburghs, to as great perfedion as
any made in Scotland. Their fail-cloth madufa&ory only
commenced in 17951 and what they have yet made has
been fold to the fail-makers in this place, who acknowledge
it equal in quality to the heft that comes from the fouth-
eoontry. The iheetings and ofnaburghs are (hipped for
London, and from thence are chiefly fent to the Weft In«
dies and America. From the fatisfadion thefe mann&c*
tares have given, they are greatly on the increafc, and bid
&ir to be carried to a coniiderable extent. The flax ufed
in the linen branches here is chiefly imported from Hoi-
Vol.. XIX. Cc land.
102 ' Stati/Hcal Account
fandy and fome from Eogland. But the Baltic ttax is nfed
for brown fheetingSi ofbaborghs, sind other Cdftrfe goods*
^read ManufaBure.^^n the ardck of thread, particit-
Farly white and colonred pound threadis, the Scotch ftand
unrivalled, and they mnft maintain their fuperioritj by
local advantages, which no other country at prefcnt can
poflefs, and the manu&Aure b carried on to an ctteat eqnaf
to any demand. Aberdeen exceeds in quantity diat of any
other town in Scotland ; and none have fnrpafled, if they
have yet come up to, their fabric in quality. AB die
threads made here are fent to the EngHfli market, and far
the greateft part dired to London, and from thence ta
many difierent places abroad^ Befides pound thread there
is made here a confiderable quantity of the finer thready
called •una or nufifs thread, from their having been made
by ntins in France and Flanders before the manufa&xre
was introduced into this country. The principal thread-
manufadurers in Aberdeen are, Milne, Cruden and Com-
pany, for ftitching and ounce threads ; Leys, Mafibn antf
Company, for ftitching and coloured threads ; and Yoong
and Walker, for coloured threads only.
Thefe, with feveral lels extenlive adventurers in- the&itfe
trade, and including a few who manufaAufe fiBen^yam
only, employ nearly loo boys under 14 years of ^ge, who
tarn each from is. 8d. to as. 6d. a- week; 600 men,
earning from 5 s. to 12 s. a- week each; and not under
2000 women, who have conftaht employment, mfoftty bn
their own houfes^ in fpinning yam, doubling and twift-
ing thread, Sec. Many women, who work within the ma-
nufadures, will earn from 53. to 6s. a- week; but tiiofe
who work in their own houfes cannot earn nearly fo much,,
a confiderable part of their time being taken up with fa-
mily matters, and other aTOcatioos. But additional: to the
I perfona
9f Aber4€in. aoj
i jnft now menttoned, who dwell in the ciQr and liil>-
ivbeg the &r^*maQofB£hires here give occafionally em*
likymeat 4oat lead 10,000 women in this and other north*
cm cooatica in Ipianing linen-yarn. Their employment
in fptaning for manu&dures can only be called oecafional^
bccanle in Jhmmer they are generally employed in pro«
cuing fuel, acd fpinning wocd and flax for £unily aie.
Thdr labour is alfo required in the field during harvelU
WwJbm Manufa&mrei^ V^.— -In die beginning of this
ccBCory, the woollen manufsdures of Aberdeenihire were
diiefly coarfe flight cloths, called plaideos and fingroms,
which were fold firom 5 d* to 8 d. ptr ell, and ftockingt
firom Sd. to a s. 6 d. pir pair. Thefe were manufadured
hf the &nnecB and cotta|^r$ from the wool of their own
flicep, and by the citiaens from the wool brought to the
market from the higher parts of the country. The goods
were bought op by the merchants of Aberdeen, at a weeklj
market held ki town, and at flated periodical fairs held
throngh the country, and which, in regard to manufac*
tnre, were under the regulation of the Dean of Guild of
Aberdeen, who regularly attended, and who, being inveft*
ed with legal authority, confifcated fuch goods brought for
fi||e« as were deficient in quality, fize, or meafure* The
chief market for exportation was Hamburgh, from which
place was brought over, at the public charge, and placed in
m pnblic warehoule, a preis or machine for packing of bale
goods, by which 400 or 450 dozens of men's dockings maj
he pot into a portable package ; but are made feldom to
contain above 300 doaens, forming, when packed, an ob-
leog Iquaie, and meafi«ing about 50 cubic feet, and weigh*
iag 13 cwt. grols.
Soon after the rebellion, anno 1745, a fpirit of agricoU
tmid improvement, as well as of commercial enterprize,
took
S04 Statiftical Aceoumt
took place. The firft had one efleft, particolarly ^ the
low country, which will be queftioned as an improvemest.
By obliging the fanner to wtntcr-herding, he was difcoa-
raged from keeping a ftock of flieep on his Imrm, oo many
•f which, where large flocks were formerly kept, not one
is now to be found.
The fpirit of commerce happily flived the mannfaftnres
from the confequential want of the raw material, which
that fyflem of farming threatened.
The woollen manufadure is now carried on more ifbme-
diately by the merchant, who imports from London and
Newcaflle the raw wool, which he eaofes to be combed^
and given out to the fpinfters and knitters throughout the
country, from ftattons in every parifli which they refiularly
tttend, either weekly or monthly, as fuits heft with the
circumflances of the place, or convenience of the manu£KC«
turer.
By this revolution in the woollen manafaAure, a greater
iraricty and better quality of goods' are made, particularly
of liockings, which is now the principal article of the
woollen export
The phidens and fingroms, which were fbrmerly the
great ftaple articles, are now almoft quite out, aitd no more
is exported than is fufliciont for under-wrappers to the bales
of ftockings.
Several manu&durcs of cosrfe cloths are fet on foot, bat
as the quantity made does not mnch exceed the demand for
home confumption, a fmall quantity only is exported.
' The ftocking-manufa&ure is confiderably increafed. It
is thought rather to exceed L. 100,000 Sterling annually, of
which about two-thirds are fent to Holland and Germany,
f^nd one-third to England, Pprtugal, and America*
pqe-foarth of the whole yalue may be reck<med to the
WW
§f Aberdeen, 105
niw material^ fo that fi^m L. 70,000 to L. 80,000 ^Sterling
is lud oat on labour for foreign confdinpt.
About 400 perfons are employed in wool-«oinbing, and
30,000 accqfionalfy employed in fpinning and knitting. It
is fiud occqfionaify employed, becaufe a great proportion of
thefe are frequently ocherwife occupied, particularly at bar*
veil, at mob, and in the fummer feafon, providing fome
pieces of clothing for themfelves or fiimilies.
The advanuges peculiar to thb branch of manufadure
are, that children at the age of ten, and people vtxj fiur ad-
vanced in li£e» may, and often do, though in a icanty mea*
fiire, maintain themiielves by their labour at this work, and
the knitting can be carried on while travelling or watching
cattle or the like -, nor does it require much, or at leaft not
conftant light, many carrying on their work throughout
the winter evening, with the fainted light ifluing from a
few tur&,*-a circumftance much in favour of a country
trhere the nights are long, and the inhabitants poorly fup-
plied with fuel or light. From thefe circutnfiances, per-
haps, it is, that the flocking manufadure finds hands, and
has its work done at a dower rate than fome- other
branches of manufadures, a good knitter not being able to
cam more than a s. per week, and the average not exceed-
ing I s. 6 d, «
There are a few ftocking-frames in Aberdeen, but no*
thing confiderable is done in that way.
When fpeaking of the extent of the ftocking manufac-
ture of Aberdeenihire, it muft be underfiood, that what la
sianubdured in the adjacent parts of the ihire of MtarnSf
to the diftance of i a or 15 miles on the coaft, is included^
as all that trade* centers in the eity of Aberdeen, and is
carried on by the mercbaiits and manufadurers refiding
there,
Th9
^o6 Siatffik^i Jbcmu
The W9«l niMi ia th» ft#cfc|iifH»>»rtM»te i» faw^
from London and Ncwoifile. TIhe ivM^ qoaiuity of woij
importoi muaaikj uiCQ Abcpdtea is Mt kfr thw 98oo
kftgs, of t40 lb» Moh*
If the Tolne of the ftockings ei^oiUd ii tU^wed |o b#
L. 101,000, eod i;he avenge prtoe u the late qt %$ upsr
4oBen of mcas ftockings, the qumitj of wool coafuaied ia
that article will be S500 hags : the fioep c^ifiuned 10 waAi*
iog the wool, and icouring the ftoekingi wiU be aboat 37
tons, and about 35 tons of oil nied in combbg the wool :
Bo that diere ii c^tpcnded in AbetdeeniUie, and part of
the Meams adjacent, on the nuuui&Am of ftoekwgs Cor
fcreign eonftinipt, yearly,
On 3500 bags of Brittlh wool, at an avorage ef L.9 pm
pack, (Sterling), - « L. aa,500 o o
On 37 tons of firitifli foap at L.50 pir ton, 1850 o o
Qn 35 toni of foreign oil at L. 40 /«r ton, 1400 o •
In all, for materials^ - - L. 23,750 o p
For labour, • - - 77*15000
The fuppofed annual amount of ftockings for
exportation, - - L. 103,000 o 6
It has been obferrcd, that 300 dozens of mens fiockings,
when packed, weigh X5cwt. and meafure about 50 cabit
feet ; five feet go to a barrel bnlk. The quantity manu-
fafhired woald therefore afbrd laftage for no more than
five veflels of a hundred tons burden, and the wool and
other materials nfed in die manufadure, Cargoes for 13
Teflels of trie fame tonnage.
Allowing the linen-yam manufaftnre to be of the fisme
amount, it is prefumed the laftage is much the fiune with
• the
die WMDe»,lMtt ilw mafeerkl ctfchefonntrwMldifoc flSbri
laftage for above fbroi veflUs of on hondrad f ons. Henoe
both tbefe branches of manu&dare, which form the prin-
cipal (taple articles of export from the port of Aberdeen
would only employ 30 vefiels, or rather afford 50 cargoes
for. a veflel of that tonnage ; and hence it may be accounted
for why the pr6pk>rtion of fliipping belonging to the port of
Aberdeen is fo much inferior to places in Scotland of le&
trade and population.
When it is fidd above, that the ftocktng-manufadure is
ef fnptrior quality now to what it was formerly, it is to bft
vnderflood of the fibricin general : there were touch high-
ix priced worfted ftoekings anade about 50 years ago than
at prefent. They were the work of women of the better
fiM. We have heard of two^ or three guineas )»>- pstir ha-
ving been paid ; but there were but few of futh quality
knitted; and fuch, it is apprehended, were more for curio-
fity than ufe, and the value more itnaginary than reaL
There were, till of late, a good many itfade, which brought
from 6b s. to 90s. ^«r dozen, and were both a neat and
comfortable wear; but the'filk m&nufaffture has leflened
tke demand for thefe at pfdifent, ftnd tbey are only' fought
for by thofe who feek for convenience, rather than follow
fidhion.
In the year i^Sp, a water-mill was firft erefted near
Aberd^aa, tritfa machinery for Ceaffing, fcrnbUing, carding,
and rowing of wool, and jennies for fpinning the fame to Aa-
ifttfafture into cloth. Previous to this period the manufac-
torer wasr obliged to import his warp-yams from the north
of England* The V)oft was chiefly fpun by old women^
and If' at ontyfrcfm backings or Haits^ as they were not
able to card the wool.
While the manu&finre of cloth was in this' fituation,
there
aoS Stati/Hcal Account
there were not aboye 1500 ftones of wed mattn&ftored iii
m year. But there has been maiiii£a&iired«
Wool, ]hu:kings»
t4 Ib.>. ftone. 16 lb /. ftooe.
From Nov. i; 179a to Nov. i. 1793, 435° ft- 345© *•
From ditto 1793 to ditto 17941 5160 a8o6
From ditto 1794 to ditto 1795, 5970 2350
About half of the above wool comes from Northumber-
land, a &nall part from LondoD, and the reft is Scotch.
The decreafe of the manufiiduring of backings is owing
to the flocking-manufadorers of Aberdeen (from whoia
they were got) doing very little bufinels fince the French
over-ran Holland, which was the principal market for the
woollen fiockings.
The country people, xo miles round Aberdeen, manu^
fadure about 900 ftone a-year of Scotch wool, mofily for
their own ufe.
Cloths manufaftured from the above wool are fix quar-
ters broad duffles ; fix quarter broad blue milled cloths, at
from 4S. to 10%. per yard; three quarters to yard broad
leys, iarges, Ihafts, plaidings, baizes, linfey woolfeys, jefl>«
mies, and ftripped apron ftufts. The colours are chiefly
dark and light blues, with a few mixtures and drabS|
The above cloths are fold along the eaft coaft of Soot-
land, betwixt Perth and Tain, and 10 miles up the country.
A few of the broad cloths are fenc to London and Ame-
rica.
The only inconvenience that the woollen-manufafhireia
in Aberdeen labour under is the want of weavers, particu-
larly for broad cloths, which indeed is the only bar why
they do not extend their manufadure of cloths, oi the
quality of the Yorkfliire broads and Rachdale baizes, for
e^qnurtatiop.
Milliog,
9f Aberdeen. 209
Milling, dying, and dreffing of dotb, is done in the fame
manner as at Leeds*
At a period when the aids wanted by GoYernment are
fo confiderable, 'the Legiflatune ought to do every thing to
encourage apd fireogthen the manaiaAnres of the country.
In 178s, Parliament granted a drawback of the duty of
foap uled in bleaching and cleaning linen and other goods.
But a fetrther drawback is yet nece^ary with refpeft to
mjbts ufed in bleaching, which drawback, although very
trifling to Government, wo]ild be of cpnfequence to mann-
fiiAnrers in many reTpefl^. The member of Parliament
w^o will give l^imCdf the trouble to examine into the uti*
lity of this drawback, and ftep forward to procure it, will
deiierve better of his country, than the man who, by a con-
tinual oppofition to Government, endeavours to raife 9
\ name to himfelf, by pretending to be the people's friend.
The people's heft friend, b the man who contrives to itr
cure their property, 'and juicreafe their trade by un&ttering
their m an nfaftiirrtf
Trodlr and Cfmmirctf
The flate of the trade and commerce of this city, at dif-
ferent periods, will be £een from the following ts^bles of tbi;
Aiipping, &c* of the Port of Aberdeen.
Vot.XIX. P4 PoKT
I
flO
Siaiiftical Account
Port of Aberdeen^ — ^An Acconnt of the Qamdty and
Species of Merchtodife exported from tkis Port in the
Year 17x2, ihewiog the particiilar Countries to which
exported^ the Dumber of Vefieb enployed, their Too-
nage, and Niioiber of Men.
to what
1^0. of '
No.o^
l^a.or
country
Wflkls
tons.
jien.
Species and Qsu^^^ of Goods.
exported.
employed.
1087 V4^ quarten oatmeal.
1501. ditto buley.
4 ditto peafe.
NoTWty,
13
406
«4
951 3-8tbs ditto malt.
,14^ hmidied. 1 qr. and spo cod 4od limg fUh at
6 fcorc to the hundred.
J tmfles worfted ftockinga.
479barrebfalmon.
i 7 hoglheads tobacco.
WkA
6
i3«
^
359 ooe-half baneU pork.
X04 tmlTes woollen cloth & worfted lladkiB|S.
'
10 caikrhog lard.
398 bars lead.
10 chaldrons coals.
Portugal,
1
85
«4
la trufies woiftod Aockioeai
3S0 cod and ling 6(h.
373 barrels Talmon.
18,690 cod and ling 6flu
Sweden,
1
100
«3
•
1 1 5 3*€ths ooarten oatmeal.
197 3-8ths ditto malt.
90 barreU hemqgt.
69 one-halfbarrels ialmoa^
Spain,
ft
'SO
^7
%4f05t cpd and ling fiOi.
31 parcels worfted ftockings.
76 barreb herrings.
79 3-8th$ quarten oatmeal.
loo quarten malt.
Germany,
I
40
4
95 5-®*» <litto barley.
766 one-halfbarrels &lmon.
a boxes ftockings.
90,000 ftock fi£.
luly,
4
300
53
47»r6o cod and ling fifli.
68 barrels herrings.
480 ban lead.
Total,
30
U'pl
103
•
Port
tf Ahetdeen,
III
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214
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aiS
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Fijbery.
ti6 Statiftical Aecwni
Fi/berj^^r^The fidmon-fifluogs at Aberdees employ a
pcmfiderable number of men, and are attended with no imall
profit to the perfons concerned in them. Thej commence
annually on the nth ot Pecember, and end on the igtfa
of September. The fiflitngs on that part of the river Dee
which belongs to the pariib of Old Machar, confift of feTca
Caveli :
Two upon Mid Channel, let for ' I* 360 o o
Two upon Pot Water, - • 120 o o
Two upon Fords, « - no o q
One upon Qridge Water, . 20 o o
L. 620 o o
'The other lUhings on the north fide of Dee belong pro- *
perlj to the pariih of St Nicholas, and are of great valae.
Thofe on thf fouth fide of that river are in the pariih of
Nigg, the (latiftical hiftorj of which contains an ezcellept
account of the fiOieries at this plaoe and neighbourhoocL
The fifliing on thfe upper part of the ^orth fide of the river
Don, in Old Machar parifli, belongs (o ^IrPatpn of Grand-
home, and is appropriated to ihp amufeinent of the pro-
prietor, and of fuch Gentlemen as, by his permiifion, angle
on that part of the river. Below that, all the way down
tio QeatCHiy the river on both fides belongs tp the proprie-
tors of the cruive filhing. The cmives lie at Crordon's Mills*
They are put into the river as foon as the weather will
permit, after the commencement of the filhing feafon, and
taken out when it i^pifes, that the lalmon may get up the
river to fpawn. The reguladoq of the cruives has occa-
fioned perpetual difputes and law-pleas between the heri-
tors on the upper parts of the riv^r, and proprietors of that
fifiiing. T^ put an end to thefe contentions, the parties
have entered into an Agreement, by whicl^ the proprietors
^/Aberdeen, a 17
of the cruivc-fifliing arc allowed to rtgulatc their cruives
as they pleafe, on paying annually a ftipulated indemnity
to the upper heritors, and this agreement is to laft for nine-
teen years. Formerly the cruives would have let through
fomc fmall fiflies, but now they will confine a trout of 2 lb.
weight. Formerly they were left open from fix o'clock
on Saturday night till about fun>rifing on Monday morn-
ing ; but now they are kept conftantly (hut. — The proprie-
tors of the cruive-fifliing employ an overfeer, who is allow-
ed a fuitable falary, and has under him, conftantly three
men, and occafionally feveral more. Their property is
divided into eight fliares, which may be feparately bought
or fold, or let. One perfon may hold one or more of thefe
fliares. Some of them are at prefent let for L. 40 Sterling
annually. EAimating each fhare at this rate, the annual
rent of the whole filhing will amount to L. 320 Sterling.
. Moft of the fi(h are caught, not in the cruives, but with nets
below the cruive-dikes. The proprietors have a houfe at
the cruives, in which they cure and keep their falmoa.
They meet once every month during the fiihing-feafon, to
examine their books, to give diredions to their fervants,
and to regulate the other bufinels of the fifhing.
Nearly oppofite to the houfe of Seaton, the Nether Don
filhing commences. It includes both fides of the river, and
extends to the fea, comprehending a fmall part of the coaft
on each fide of the river. The tide flows up the river
nearly as far as this fiihing extends. Some parts of the
river can therefore be filhed only in certain ftates of the
tide. During feveral hours about the time of low-water,
while fome are fifliing in the river, others are fifhing in the
fea. ^hc boats and nets Vith which they fifh upon the
fea-coaft are larger, and' require more men to work thetri,
than thofe which are ufed on the river. This fifliing is di-
vided into two diftinft properties, the one called the King's
Vol. XIX- Ec Cavel,
21 8 Siatjfiical AuQunt
Cavel, and the other the BiOiop^ CaveL In each pfel
there are fix (hares called, Halfnets, and all the ihares are
nearly .of equal value, llie proprietors of eytcb cavel em-
ploy an overfeer, who, in the beginning of the feafon, has
deveu men under him, but after the ift of June, twentj
men, and occafionally a greater number* Both the ^vcla
fifli alternately the fame water. It often happens, indeed,
that both fiih in different places at the &me time. Verj
curious rei^ulations are adopted by both cavels for fixing the
periods at which they fucceed one another on the tea, and
on the different fifhing ftations op the river. Thefe regula-
tions have no conne£lion with the dated hours of the day
and night, but are ingenioufly calculated, according to the
ebbings and Sowings of the tide, to give both the cavels an
equal chance for filh. The produce of both properties
are accordingly at die end of fome leafoos very nearly
equal. Such b the general principle on which thefe regu-
lations are founded ; but they cannot be particularly ex*
plained without an accurate map of the river, accompanied
with a long and minute detail, which would be very untn*
terefling to the public. Befides the fiih caught by thdr
nets and boats, they fet fliort nets cuMtiffeti^ in fome cor-
pers of the river, and falmon ar^ often found entan^ed in
the malbes pf thefe nets. At the fouth end of Don Bridge
the proprietors have houfes, in which they cure and keep
their lalmon till they are ready for exportation. They
meet once every fortnight during the filhing-feafon to fa-
perintend their bufinefs, and give direftions to their fer-
vants.*-None of the (hares of either cavel are let \ it is
therefore impoflible to fay with accuracy what rent this
fifhing wonld yield. It^ value is very great. A fingle
^ ibare (old lately for L.35CO Sterling, Efiimating each of
the twelve (hares at this rate, the value of the whole &(k«
ing of both paveb wpuld be l«« 3O9O00 Sterling.
The
The fifindrantage \sf which this, and of confequence the
cmcve-fiflnngy is^moft apt to faffer, arifesrfirom the precarious
ftate of the river's mouth. Many years ago^ the river near
the fea took a long turn to the footh, which rendered it fo
fliallow, that often the fiilaion could with difficulty enter it*
The proprietors' of the fifliings were aHvious to deepen the
mouthPof the rivertby ikiakiojf;a (Iraightcut through the fand-
baak, at the turn of the rvver, between it and the fea. This
was undertaken for % fmaU* fum of money by Dr Gregory,
then oae of the profefibra of King's College. He accord-
ingly built a ftone bidwark, part of which is ftill extant,
aliBoft acrols the old channel of the river, jufi where it
tamed to the fouth* This caufed the ftreanfi to pulh di-
refilj, and with great force, againft the fand-bank, which
lay iaifiiedtately betweea it and the fea. Eneibracing aa
opportonit J of a great flood in the river, he made a fmall
cntacnsls the iiand-bank, which the flood water foon entering,
fwejK away for itfelf an excellent channel direfily into the
iea. Ha^g eflfeded this important fervice to the Don
iSkSmg^ at an* cxpenoe confiderably below the Aipulated
fhsiir the Dofior generoufly gave the reaaainder of the mo*
ney aa a Alnd for the fupport of fuperannunted falmon*
f fhtiai add fome of them now draw fironr that fiind L. a
Scaiiihg airaoaUy.— Though there is now little danger of
the river rafuming ita did circaitous and fliallow eourfe, as
it ftill enters Che fea through- a large bed of foft fand, its
mouths varies almofr every feafon, and often with every
vsolentlioivicane'of wind* It is ftill fometimea fo ihalloiw
ac'kiw wattT-thar no large fiflies can enter ir. The only
naathod of deepening it^. is by caufing it to run into the
iiea in at fttaight a ftream as poflible. For this purpofe, as
ics tendency is (till to turn to tfae^ fonth, though at a place
much nearer to the fea than its former winding, the pro-
[priaMisa of the fifliing have erected a new bujwark of flakes
and
^20 Staiifiical Account
and heath, ktpt down with ftoncs, in an ohliqne dire£Boii, on
the fouth fide, of the river, a good way into the chanaeL
This fecms alreadj to have good effeds, bj turning the
ftream to the north, and deepening the river's mouth. It is
daily gaining additional flrength, becaufe the weather is
driving the fand dofe behind, and thereby fi^poiting it.
The falmoD in Dee and Don are thought to be in the
higheft perfedion in April and May. For feyeral years
pafi they have not been fold here at any time under 3 d.
per pound ; and until the beginning of July, when the an-
nual contrad of the proprietors of the fifliings with the
Aberdeen merchants, who fend the falmon to the London
• market, expires, none are to be had under 6d./#rpoand.
To obtain them even at this price we mnft fend t» the
boil-boufe in Aberdeen. It is hard, that while onr rivers
abound in fifb, their whole produce ihould, for five or fix
months in the year, be fold to one or two Aberdeen mcr*
chants, at about 4 d. or even under that fum, and that« du-
ring that period, none of the inhabitants can obtain a fingle
pound under 6 d. and that only in the way of favour from
the merchants. Laft year our (almon were falling in tba
London market cheaper than we could buy them at Aber*
-deen. Was not this carrying on a monopoly at. once to
the difad vantage of the merchants and the country? It has
been alleged, that the proprietors of the fiifliop's Cavel
wer^ once obliged to ofitr their fifli for fsde in the mfarket
of Old Aberdeen. If ever thb commendable pradice took
place, it has long ago fallen into diinfe. TwOiihirda of the
produce go to the London market; iand the catch of Joiy,
Auguft, and September, is falt^d, and exported in bsirrek to
France and Flanders, where they have a charafter fnperior
to the fiAi of other rivers, which occaficms a difference of
price at home of xo 9. to 15 s. per barrel. From xao to 150
filhenneB
ofAberdeenr aai.
ftOitf OKU aK lemployed on the rivers.. The^f wagqiy at an
avenge, are from.I<^ 5 to. L»'I5 pfr wmupr*^ .
The gnSSts come into oar riven -about t)ie middle or end
of June, and continue till September, The(e majgeoe^.
raOlj be boogbt at about 2 d; or about pfc^d. /ler pounds — :
The fiih oaught in Julji Auguft, and September, ai^e. failed.
and exported.
The white troot and finnocks cau^t in the iaImoQ-fi(ber^
nets are ezoellent. They belong as a pei^jquifite to.the filher-
men,. by whom they are Ibid at about 2 d^ptr pound, and
ibmetimes at a lower rate, to the inbabitanu . of both. the
town and neighbourhood. ' Many , finnocks are caugl^t in
the Don by Cmall feeibs^ which the filbermen fet for .(hat
porpofe after the feafpn of the filinon-filbiog is over. It
is thought that tbefe fuihs do not tepd to prevent the fal*
anon from conwg up the river tojpawn, becauie they arcL
too finall in the malhes for entangling Isurge.fiihesi .uid be-,
caoie they are never fo far extended into the river as:to
Under. them from paffing.
Nail Mamffa£htre.'^Th!t chief branch of the iron mann-
fiiAore carried on here is the niaking of nails. This work
was efbblifhed about the year 1780, and employs from ao
to 30 hands, who earn very high wages. Other branches
of the iron manufadure might now, that the coal-duty, is
taken off, be c(^ried on here to advantage.
JHfiilkriis^^Tht. fmall ftiUs in Aberdeen and i|3 ni^igb*
bcurhood were lately either given up, or removed to thfj
Highland diftrifts. All the whHky made in lucb AiU9.i%
liable to be feized as fmnggled goods when bfo^ght to
Aberdeen \ fo that the city depends entirely on the^ large
diiUUeries in the fo^tb of Scotland for fuppUes of wb^^j^
the
j»4 Stdti/ikat Account
Theqintitltjr I«potted bHbre the tale proMWtory diftBiDg
tft was great, and iii gtneril of a verjr bad quality.
A diftiUerj, on a ptettjr extenfive fcale, was lately crrefi*
ed near Aberdeen ; it wasr cote^leted on* the 39th Septem-
ber 1794. It is fituated near Don Bridge. The chief in*
dncement for erefting it there was the comnland of water^
38 feet perpendicular upon the banks of a narigable viver.
It was intended x6 dillil annually the produce of sa,obo
quarters of com, but.eould domneh more. Thiafeafbii^
(1795), owing to oblhruftiona from the ft verity of thcr
weather during the lafl Winter and fprmg, the enriiargo^
ihrd th^ prohibition, only 8115 quarters were brewed^ P^*^
ing npon import^on to London L. 26,800 Sterling, with
about L. 1000 niore for duty uponmak. The principal
part of the com grew ii^ Aberdeenfliire ; the reft waa ioo^
ported from the adjacent diftrifis. The whok was the
gfowtk of Scotland.
' It would be of great public utility if dIAUleriel upon »
moderate fcale were ereAed in different counties diroagh«i
out the united kingdoms, infiead of being concentered in
and near London, in ten great hoofef. Moft of the fpent
wa(h or burnt ale, and much of the dang, u thrown into the
river, which, befides injuring the: water, is a lofi to foctety.
More cattle and hogs would be fed; and all damaged or ilC-
harvefted com, unfit for exportation, would be turned^ ftti
the utmoft advantsige ; the manure would' enrich the lands
contiguous. This diftiUery would well keep at the rate of
400 cattle, or 1000 hogs, yielding fufficient manure to ferd-
Eze annually from 15 to 20 Scotch acres! of the moft bAN
f^n land; but call it at a medium ao £nglr(h acres, as the
contents of the waflr-ftill here amounts oniy to 1650 gal«
Ibnr, every 100 gallons ought to manure nearly one Eng^
lilh acre ; and confvqnently the London diftilleriesy w^ofe
waih
waft-Ailb ut at loAft ioo,ooo ^aUoas in conteotir o^gbt (a
SeHilize lOQO acres per anwm.
Throwing away the bottoms, as thej are caUed, ia a great
public lois.-«-SoK><^fc ^ boufe to brew daily lOO quarters,
ahis would produce about io»qoo gallons, of worts or woih,
or zoo gallons from a quarter^. Whan the fermeotaticA
ccalest the waib is fit for difUIlation ; about one-tenth, or
xoco gallons, of which will be a thick fediment or bottom,
vcbich in England is frequently thrown into the river, in
the prefence of the oflScers of 'excife, thereby faving the
duty of 9 d. per gallon, and avoiding the danger of humifig
the ftill. In Scotland it is thrown away to avoid the bum*
ing only. It couU eafily be proved how much com is thos
totally loft annually; it is probable fuU 50,000 qoarters.
This muil be the cafe until the Legiflature make it the in*
tereft of the cora-diftiUer to extrafi all the fpirit in and
from the com, without running the riik of burning the
fiilL
In this diftiUery, half barley and haii bear are made ufis
of; unqueftionably there is more fsrina, or iaccharine mat-
ter, in barley than in bear, and it is that only which produ-
ces fpirit* Potatoes are lefs fit for difiillation than barley ;
the ffvnx, produced is much fouler ; and it is not believed
.that they would aiifwer upon a large fcaie. Rye may
be ufed to advantage with malt and ha* ley, hut it muft
be in a finall proportion. All barley ufed by difliU
iocs would be malted if there were no duty upon malt, be.
• caufe
• Tofreveitt throwing €eway the hettmt^' two methodi ooly sppetr
digible : Diilillen to be allowed a ftill of fuitable or propoctiontte gaU
loRSy under proper regulatioiu, for csovd^ing the fpirit from the bottoms,
witboat b^g obliged, as now, either to thraw them away, or oiiz and dlfti,!
diem with ihe wa(h. Or, to be allowed a proper number of lours to
work their iUlls^oa; leTs rapidly tha^ they axe now obliged u> do. Hia
flit appean by far the moft eligible.
214 Stati/Hcal Account
cture xoo grains of malt will yield more faecharine matter
than 100 grains of barley, but it occupies more fpace; it is
the intereft of the diftiUer at prefent to ufe as much raw
grain as poffibte, faring thereby tbedaty op the malt ; and
it b certain, that the grains or refofe for feeding the cattk
or hogs b the better the le& fpirit that is taken oot of it :
As the fpirit extraded, however, would be mpch finer and
wholefomer, and as it could not poffibly, under proper re-
gulations, be attended with any lois to the revenue, it may
be worthy the eonfideration of Parliament, whether it would
not be advifeable to enad, that in fixture ipudts ^ould be
^xtrafted from malted graiii alone.
Brtweries.-^The firft public brewery, for brewing ale
for the confumpt of this town, was ereded by Meflrs Wil-
liam Black and Company about the year 1768. Their
work is very confiderable, and there is fcarce any thing of
the kind in Scotland fo complete. They brew table-beer,
flrong-ale and porter. Their ftrong-ale is of fuch excellent
quality, that a great deal of it is fent to London, and feve-
ral places abroad ; and their porter is generally fuperior in
quality to the Liondon porter which is brought here for
fale ; but fuch is the effed of prejudice, that people will
drink London porter of the worft kind, before good frefli
porter brewed s.? home.
There are now, befides MeiTrs William Black and Com-
pany's brewery, no fewer than fix public breweries in this
town and pariih of Old Machar. Two of them in town,
MeiTrs George Annand and Company, and Meflrs Brebner,
Gibbon and Company, do a great deal of bufineis, and
they are all in a thriving way.
Before there were any public breweries in this place, the
people who kept publtc-houfes brewed all the ale and beer
which they fold ; and it was then cullomary for private fa-
a milies
of Aberdeem ii^
Ibilies to brew for theii: own life, but prirate brewing is
now laid afide.
Cotton-Clotb Manufai^urt^ U^r.— t*here is carried on ty
fome gentlemen in this town a very extenfive manufadore
in fpinning^ weaving, atid printing cotton-cloth in the
greateft variety of patterns. l*he printfield and work*
houfeSy where this manuladure is principally carried on,
lie in the parifli of Old Machar. This work has added
coniiderably to the population of the town and neighbour-
hood.
Frice ofProvifionSj i^c. — fhc price of beef and inuttte
about 4 d. per lib. \ veal, 5 d. ; pork, 3I d. ; geefe, i s. 6 d.
each ; ducks, is, 8 d. per pair ; butter, 8 d. per lib. or 18
#ances; cheefe, 5 s. per (lone, or 28 pouilds; chick^iis,
10 Alper pair.
The wages of a labourer ^^ day sire from xod. to i tf. 4 d. ;
a carpenter, bricklayer, or roafon, has 1 s. 6 d. aday, and a
Wright commonly i s. 3 d. The wages of a female fervant
IS commonly about L. i, 10 s. and for a male-fervant from
L. 4 to L. j in the half-year*
The moit memorable battle in this neighbourhood was
that which was fought, in the lad century, between Mont-
rofe and the Covenanters, on Friday the ijth of Septem-
ber 1644, ii^ which viftory declared for the formc;r, and
the latter were purfi.ed with great flaughter from the field
of battle, which was about a mile weliward to the town*
A gentleman of this place, proprietor of fome ground in
the Schoolhill, which had been time immemorial employed
as garden-ground, intending to build on it, dug pretty deep
for a foundation, when, to his great furprife^ he came on «
place in which there were found many human bones, and
among them 14 or 16 fculls. What is very remarkable is,
Vol.. XIX. Ff Ibac
ai 6 Statiflicat AtcowA
tfutt on fome tX, the (cotti there vha fixind long jdbw
bur, neatly wrapped round and plaited with an woolkn
fillet or ftring in form of a queue, which did not appear to
be rotten. As there were no remains of anj coffin, and in-
deed no appearance from the pofition of the bones that the
bodies had been regularly interred, and as this field is at the
weft end of the town, exadly in the line of the purfuit from
the field of battle, it is conjedured, that on that occafioo
the bodies of many, who had fallen near the place, had been
huddled together, and promifcuoufly thrown into this clay
pit, for fuch it appeared to have been. It was on that oc-
cafion that Montrofe gave up the town to the pillage of the
foldiers, who were mofUy Iriih, and cruelly maflacred many
of the harmlels inhabitants, infomuch, that the women only
durfi appear, and take concern in burying the dead. It is
about twenty years fince the dilbovery of tbefiB fcuUs and
other human bones was made.
Intended Canal, — ^There are at prefent no navigable ca-
nals in this place, unleis the lead at the printfield is conii-
dered as one, and it has been uled as fuch, only for bring-
ing ftones from a quarry to the buildings of the manuEac-
ture. A fubfcription has been raifed to obtain a furvey of
a canal from Aberdeen, up Don fide to Monymuik, with a
branch up the water of Ury, through the Garioch, to Infch.
The furvey is made by Captain George Taylor, and the
undertaking found to be praAicable. A finall cut, twenty
feet wide, by three feet and a half deep, bfintended to
carry boats of twenty or thirty tons burden. The locks
and bridges will be fewer, and leis expenfive than mofi
people acquainted with the grounds are apt to fuppole. Tbe
ezpence is within reach of the gentlemen proprietors of
the lands adjacent. The quantity of goods now carried by
land is fufficient to pay a reafonable intereft for the money
required.
iff Aherdcen. 227
re^iredy «t little more than half the expence of bod-car-
liage. So favonrable is the fpirit of the people to this on-
4ertakbg9 and fo evident its advantages to the poblic, that
manj farmers propofe to fubfcribe for ihares. The canal
will pafs for three miles through tbeparilh of Old Machar,
from the harbour of Aberdeen, and communicate with
Gordon's mills field, the printfield, and Parflej bleachfield,
the moil exteniive manofaflures in this part of the coontrj.
The benefit which the manufadurers on the banks of
J>on9 both in this parifli and the pari(h of Newhins, would
reap from this canal, mufl indeed be great ; both bj
the cheap carriage of coals, and all the heavy and bulkj .
articles nfrd in their feveral branches, to their manufac-
mrcs, and by the eafy conveyance of their goods to Aber-
deen, on the arrival of which in a given time they might
fecurely depend. As there are many fine haughs and wa*
ter-£alls along the Don, and adjacent to the courfe of th^
inteoded canal, it may in time be the means of eilabliihing
ufiefid manu&dures at a confiderable diflance from the
tovrn, where the immenfe expence of fire and carriage
renders foch undertakings at prefcnt impradtcable. But
its beneficial influence on agriculture will be more infian«
taneoufly confpicubus. Almoft the whole labour of the
farmerst.aod of their (ie;rFant||knd horfes, from feed-tifM to
harveft, is employed in digging, drying, and carrying hon^^
peats and turf for their winter-fuel. This, by difcpuraging
the onrrjagie of lime a^d other manure, and by putting it
out of their ^ power to attend properly to gr^en crops and
fidlow, has exceedingly retarded the improvement of the
bads at a diftance from the town. By mean^ of the cana!^
^stxy farmer along the banks, and to the diftance of two
or three miles from thefe, might, at a cheap rate, and in a
few days, lay in his winter- fuel of coals, and have abun-
dant leifure to attend to the^improvement of his land. It
would
92| Stati/lical Account
lyottld alfo afford him a cheap, eafy, and expedittoaa am*
yeyanoe of linie apd other manure from Al^rdeen, while %
£nji^le fervant could, at comp^ativelj little expence, attend
}iis graiOy miral, poultry^ butter, cheefe, milk, and all the
produce of bis fartp, to market^ in doing which he muft at
prefent employ maqj horfes and carts. It would thus re-
dound to thp advantage of the proprietd^s of the adjacent
Ismdsy not only by fertilizing their foi}, extruding tbeir
Urable land, and increafing their rents ^ but alfo by en*
^bling them to open with profit many quarries of excellent
granite, fom^ of lime aqd fame of date, which, on account
of the expence of the carriage to town, are as yet unwrought.
By fiirnilhing a cheap and expeditious convieyance to mar-
]cet for the wood of many fine and e^tenfive plantations
adjacent to its courfe, and which, for want of fuch convey*
anpe, cannot now be fold to a^vantagCf it would greatiy
increafe the value of thefe plantations, and encourage their
Owners to extend them over many large tracks of other-
wife bljcaj;;, barren, and unprodufHve ground. Thus would
|t tend at once to increafe population, to enrich both the
landholder and the tenant, and to beautify the hct of th^
fountry.
This place gave birth to Mr George yamiefon^ a portrait-
painticr of the moft diftinguifiied eminence. He was bom
of refpeftable parents about the end of the 16th century.
Having, at an early period of life, difcoyered an uncom-
jnon genius for portrait-painting, he went abroad, and du-
eled under the celebrated Reubens, during which time he
made great progrefi in his profeffionl About the year
1620 he returned to his native city, where he fettled as a
portrait-painter, and afterwards married an Aberdeen lady
qf the name of Ifobel Toafli, by whom he had fcveral
children, both foris and daughters. It appears that all his
Tons died when young. His only daughter whofe defcend-
of Aberdeen. 229
flsts are now Ihring, was caQed Mary. Her firft hufbaiid
was Mr Burnet of Elrick, in the countj of Aberdeen. She
was afterwards married to Mr James Gregory, the eminent
jnathematician, and profeflbr of mathematics in the Uni-
Terfities of St Andrew's and Eidinbnrgh, and great grand*
lather of Dr James Gregory, prefent profeflbr of medicine,
Univcrfity, -Edinburgh. Her third marriage was to Bailie
George Eddie of Aberdeen. By all of them ihe had chil-
dren. Many of the defcendants of the two firft have nume-
rous families in this county. She appears to have inherited
a confiderable portion of her father's genius for portrait-re-
prefentation, chiefly on tapeftry, many fpedmens of which
{till remain, particularly feveral large Scripture pieces, in
different compart;ment8, which now decorate a part of the
High Church of Aberdeen.
Jamiefon's charader and ftyle of painting foon became
generally known and admired all over the kingdom. He
appears (as may be feen in the fubjoined lift) to have paint-
ed a great number of portraits, among which are King
Jtmcs VI. and Charles I. It is faid, that when taking the
portrait of Charles I. the King ordered him)[to keep on his
hat. Owing to this circumftance, or perhaps in imitation of
Reubens his mafter, in all the piftures of himfelf he is re-
prelented with his hat on.
Mr John Alexander, grand*nephew of Mr Jamiefon,
iieems to have been the only one of his defcendants who
pofleffed his genius for painting. He praftifed in Aber*
deen as a portrait-painter till a copiiderable time after the
jear 1730. Many of bis paintings alfo are highly efteemed,
George Jamiefon was a nephew of David Anderfon of
Fiozeauch, merchant-burgefs of Aberdeen. He was com-
monly called, Davie do a' things on account of his very
great and exteniive genius for mechanics, and moft other
X br^ch^
%jp Stat^kal Aammi
of AHDxa] pbito(bpbj» wbidi be ciniwBtTy ££>
|tijt4 ia araB J diflerefU mfiuiccs at Abcxdeca*
Mr AnicrSotk wa» bora abovt ibe 1575, and aMiricd to*
ipards the cod of Ihst ceiitiirj» to Jean Goild, Ja»ghrrr of
. Matthew Catkl* hiur^e& ef Abcrdcciiy bj whooa be had
Jtvcral cbiUrta, parikakrijr three daughters^ all ouvried !•
£ffi»reat g^jUlesacA in the town and coontj q£ Afaerdeeiu
Alter hk deatb» hk widow, Jean Guild, witb tbe coi»-
Moxitn^ and approbation of her daughten and their hu£-
laed»» mortified the greatcft part of a coofiderabk property
af ber owa^ for tbe maiDtcnaace <rften poor oipbans, at tbe
sale ci 30 merk» jearlj to each, pader tbe patromf e of tbe
jMagifirates asd Towa-council of Aberdeen. Her brocber,
Jh William Guild, Prioctpal of Kia^'s CoUege, alfi> de-
ifined a eoofiderabk fum of mooe j for the like pious pQr«
pofe, and under tbe fame patronage ; from tbe produce of
whicfa^ atid the great inprovemeata and attention wbicb
bave been made and beflowed upon them bj the patrons,
about 40 uecefiitons orphans are at prefent in a great mea-
ikCe (upported in tbe town nf Aberdeen, and which they
see eatitkd to enjoj from their eariieft io&ncj till they
bacMW a6 jcaca <tf age.
CAtALQGXJl
0f Ahcrnt^^
is*
CATAMO0E iifjome rfthe UTorki ^GxoaoE J^MlSMi^
PaimUr.
MCTWRES.
iT^ „i^7 cwi^^i. •»*'»:
}
<wn; }«nicfen's
lirad; two fea-views
,^. wtfe; another
Pcrfrwaxid Anira-<
Sir Cearee CHilmcrs, pgintag,
tnamcd to j'amieya .§««-
►EaiiofF«idtocr>a{tBarfr€at!lk.
tobttd, fuppofod hi* wift's pfeantc ^ g«i4-fM»t .pandfim.
|iflik!fi»irs
I;
XaxiofBicadafii
EarlofStraAmooe.
HerrioeiHofpitaL
Sir Daacaa Gunpbell.
WiUiao^ £arl of Airih.
TuhnDukcofRoAtt. ^
Tunes Marquis of HamiRim.
Archihaldl^iAlfafif/.
WiUiamEarlofManfehaL
Eari of Loudon. Ix)rd High CauaceUof-
TboouaLocd Bianag.
[oha Eaii of Mar.
Jir Robert Campbell.
lyof Locbow.
Two of the Family of Argyle,
LordGlamiSt
^TJKxandcr Erito^, CambuflOBneth.
Sir Charles Erfkinc of Al^ia,
Sir John Erikioe of Otterftown.
Ai4ir ErflLine, Scotfcraig. , ^.
WaUam Erfkioc, maftcr <>/ Ckwteihoufe.
MaiT ExflLine, CounteCi of Manfchal, and 1
^ . ofPaamurc. I f
Marrarct Countcfe of Kothes.
Mardia Coumnefcof Stiathmow.
AweLadyBinnmg.
Hcffy Prince of Wales.
Icaofofdecifiom. -^ Coantcfs of Rothes.
Same petfon. ^ . .-, . _
Ji«e*£rfluneEarlofBuchan. 7EarUf Buchan.
fc^ Erlkine. Locd of Dryburgh. C £arl Vi Ducaau.
^LordAhia.
PICTURES.
2$2
Siaij/UcMl jtccoum
^Morifim of Bognie.
^Mr Jtmiefoo,
, Leith.
Sir John Dalrymple.
Aleztnder Fnfer of Philordu i
WiUuun Foibes of Tolqukon. f ^^^ Saltoo.
Sir Tbomat Hope, Lord Advocate. Z
S^ John Hope. Lord of Seffion. fMr ScOtt^bteofRoffic
Margaret Murrey, hu wife. > -»— «w««ik.
5ir Adam Gaidon. cj- e-.,-* rv..ju-. n.^
Dr Dun, founder of the gnmottr^chool ^^ j ^"^ *'™* ^^*»*^ ^•**-
Aberdeen. JBifa,]
Crichton. Vifcount Frendrtmgfat.
Sutherland, Lady Frendraught.
Marquis of Mootrofe.
Urqubart of Cromarty.
His wife.
Leflie, Lady Freadranght
Charles L
Jamiefon himfelf.
?W ^^^ £?/ r* ^"^^^ ^r. -*. juou A^airympie.
Three guts, aged fix, feven, and cirht, of the ^„ .\ /«4«'
fiimilies of Argyle, Errol, and KannouL 5 ^"^ ^^ Auchmeddoi.
^7— ^ Gordon.
Sir Thomas Hope, Loid Advocate.
Dr William Johnfton, brother of Dt Arth^.
Forbes, his wife.
Br Anhur Johnflon.
Mr Andrew Cant, miniiief.
Gordon of Straloch, pnbliiherofmaps.
Sir Paul Menzies, Piovoft of Abexdeen.
A head unkaown.
Patrick Forbes, Biihop of Aberdeen.
Profeflbr Sandilands.
Profeflbr Goidon
The Sybels, fome of them fuppofed to be of
Jamiefoh*s hand.
Charles L >Mr Campbell, Royal Baal*
Two Sandilands of the Torphichen fiunily.
Sandilands of Cottown.
General David LcOie.
Sir Alexander Frafcr of Fraferlburgh.
Wilham Forbes, firft Bifliop of Edinburgh.
Sir Thomas Nicolfon, Lord Advocate.
Earl of Huntly, caUed Luckenhand.
Jamei VI. iuU length.
> Duke of Gordon.
£artofHopetoun.
^Andrew Skene of Dyce»
>iMari(dua College, Aberdees^
>King's College, AbcfJeen.
Waochope of Niddrie.
7 Late Mr Andrew Paul of Aber-
3 deen.
> William Urquhart of Craigftoxr.
FarlofKinnoul.
} Counters Dowager of Aberdeen.
Said to be fold to a family ib
Kagiaod.
FICTURSS
^ tf Aberdeen. ^3^
^ t C f tJ R £ S. Perfonx to wbom they belong.
CinegieofSotttlieik. ^
Cunegk of Northdk, f Sir David Carnegie of South-
Cunegie of Craigs. f eik.
Cirn^teofDuimidiefL ^
Patrick Fot1>es, Biihop of Aberdeen. Sir William Fori>es, Craigicvar.
Dtrid Anderfon of Finzeaoch, merchant,^
tmrgels of A)t)erdcexi» commonly Qalled,
** Davie do a* diing/* uncle to Jamiefon.
Mr. Akzander Roberaon, town-clerk of Aber-
deen.
Aootfaer not known*
Charles Bannnerman, Advocate
in Aberdifen; married to a
neat - great - great - grand-
aauffht
ughter of Mr AiideiTon*s.
The above catalogue, and .the materials from which the account of Mr
Jimiefon was taken, were communicated by Alexander Carnegie, £fq;
town^lerfc of Aberdeen.
N. B, It b propoied to give an tccoubt of the Univerfities of Aberdeen
ii another part of this work.
Vol. XIX. Gg K-pM-
*»
Staiifiieal AecwH
NUMBER V.
{"ARISlI O^ Atil^ESS,
(County akd ^vkod of Ross, anb PusBTT^tf mK
Dikowall).
By the Ri9. Mr Akous BcTSUirs, MMJht.
Origin ofiht Namt.
ALNESS fignifies the Promontory, a headfeM of the
brookr or river, being compounded of the words
jluiltf brooki orjimhainf river, and Nifi^ s^ headland, which
m the termination of many names of places where there is
a headland or promontor j. The name correfponds with
ihe fituation of the pariih, which ilretches along a river,
fermerlj eaUed Averon^ but now known bj the name of
the Water of Alnefi^ and tenmnatea in a narrow point or
promontory^
Situation^ Extent^ Soil and Pro^srcf.— -The parifli is fitu-
ated in the county of Rois, and belongs to the preibytery
of Dingwall and Synod of Rofi. It is of a very irregular
(ifAlnefs. 9^g
Sam ; to £6mc parts no( ^boyc two miles, 9nd la others
more tl^n ibpr miles J^road, It is 19 miles long, extending
&om Alneis poiat, fia the ihore of tkfi frith of Crpmartj,
its lb|ith-call bppndftr^, ^ qiO&d^able w^y into the mor^
faighl|Lnd p^rjts of jthe epuntTT; In the lower part of tbtp
parilli, lying co)atigjiou8 to tbp fea, and about two miles up*
wards, the ground i^ mo^ljr arable, and of vaHpus ^ualities^
The toil, however, is generally light, and thopgh it feldont^
produces l^xurial^t crof^, yet ^arbeo the farmeirs are iaduf-
trioQs, thfiyr l^bou^ is |:ew^rdpd by a middling return of
oatt, b^Iey, and peafe, and abundant crops of potatoes i
and there cai^ be little doubt, if the farms, which are almoft
all open-fifdd, were i^c^ofed, aad a dii^fereat mode of farm-
ing adopted froqn that generally pradifed in this part of
the county, but the foil would produce at lead a third
more grain than it does at prefen^. The higher parts of
the parifiiy lying beyopd % ridge of hills ^bich conceals
them from the eye of the traveller on the public road, con-
Aft of ftraths jot glens, producing fome bear and black, oats,
bot chiefly adapted for pafturage, and in which a confider-
able Bomber of black cattle, and fome fmall horfes, ara
reared. Adjoining to thefe ftraths are two beautiful frefli*
vater Jpcbs or lakes, which have a pleafant effeA to the
^je, and abound with a variety of trout. Each loch is
about two miles lohg, and nearly a mile broad. Higher up
the coontry^ and beyond thefe lochs, is a very eztenfive
traft of rich heath, affording pafture in the fummer time,
not only to the graziers in the braes, but for the oxen and
young ftore of the farmers in the lower part of the pariih
^d neighbourhood, who, not having fufficient pafture of
their own, mud fend their cattle to feed for the fummer
months to thefe grazings.
Sheep-farming has been lately introduced on thefe higher
grounds, extended heaths, and fome of the glens *, but the
plan.
93$ Statijlical Account
plan, however juftifiable in itfelf, and on the part of th»
proprietors, was unpopular, becanfe it occafioned the remo-
val of the native pofleiTors of thefe fargia and grazings, and
excited a diforderlj and tumultuous (pint among the coon-
trj-people, which it becamie neceflaiy bj legal and for«
' cible means to fupprels. fbis gave rife and rapid circula-
tion to a report, as injurious as it was groundlels, that the
proprietors treated thefe poor tenants with oppreflkn and
cruelty. In juftice, however, to the proprietors of this pa*
rilh, who have let an j part of their eftates &r iheep-&rm-
Ing, it is proper to affure the public, that fuch tenants as
had been removed from their pofleffions for that purpofe,
were otherwife provided in farms bj thefe gentlemen, ei-
ther on their own eftates, or on fome others in their vici-
pity ; and that to thb humane objeft they paid every at-
tention in their power, feeling themfelves particnlarlj inte*
refted in, and folipitous for, the accommodation of the few
tenants whom, with a view to encourage the introdudion
of fheep-farming, the^ had foi^nd it neceC&ry to remove.
Heritors of the Pari/t.-^The proprietors of the parifli
are 6eneral Sir Hedor Munro of Novar, K. B. Captain
Duncan Munro of Culcaim, Captain Hugh Munro of Tea<*
ninich, Mifs Mackenzie of lochcoulta, and Andrew Munro
of Lealdie. Of thefe. General Sir Heftor Munro and
Captain Hugh Munro pf Teani^iph have their family^feats,
and arc reiidenc in the pariOi.
The place and family-feat of Novar has been highly cul-
tivated and improved by Sir Heftor Munro, at a very
great cxpcnce, and with much and approved tafle. It is
indeed a great and a finilhed place, the moft complete in
the north, and the admiration of all travellers to this coun-
try. It is, too, very advantageoufly fituatcd, confiderably
elevated above thp frith, pot a mile diftant from it, and
^ommai^dlng
•/ AJneJs. %yj
commanding a ftdl and eztenfive view of the neighbouring
country, and of the bay |and headland of Cromart jy— ob«
jeds greatly admired for their lingular beauty.
Valuation and Rent. —The valued rent of the pariih if
L-aSpi Scots, and the real rent about L« laoo Sterling.
The rent has not been much increafed of late, iheep-farms
excepted, which have been confiderably augmented. No
additional rent has been laid on the tenants of Novar eilate
fince it came into the pofleflion of Sir Hedor Munro, nor
for feme time before that period. A laudable example ta
other proprietors, and highly deferring of imitation, and a
certain method of fecuring the inviolable attachment and
affsdion of the tenants.
Population.'^Th^ number of perfons now living in this
pari(h is iiai ; of thefe, 800 are examinable, or above fe-
ven years of age.
Abflrad of the baptifms, marriages, and burials, for the
four years immediately preceding the i ft of January 1795 %
Years. Baptifms. Maniage^ Buriak.
1791, -^ 30 — II -^ 10
1792, — 27 — 5 ~ 8
i793f -r 31 — 9 — II
1794* — a8 — 8 — 13
The population is rather on the increafe, the population
in 1755 amounting to 1090 ; the difference only 31.
Previous to the admiffion and (ettlement of the prefent
incumbent, which took place in September 1771, the mi-
nifters of this parifh fince the Revolution were, Mr John
Frafer, Mr Daniel Mackilligan, and Mr James Frafer, all
worthy and excellent men, and fuccelsful preachers of the
QofpeL The laft, in particular, was a clergyman of pro-
3 found
%^% Statijlical Account
fiuwd cmduioQ 9s well m piety, and djfliigniftrd for gnmt
%t4U{j and acute ne|a in facred criticiftn*
^/^f of tie Cbttrchf i^r.— The church was rebuiit 15
^aTB ag/9» and n^ajtlj fipiibed. I( ftiU contioiie^ (o be a
dacpnX ai^d ^xm^fortable place of woribip. A new DAauifc,
fpf^ior to th« ganeralitj of n)jiuA|:ni boujes, has beo^
built two y^an ago ; and ib cprdiallj were the bcritois
difpofed ^ grant A^ good aiccommpdaponi that no appJi*
cation was made to thp pre(byterjr for th/eir iot^erpofitioo.
Hktr flipend is 128 bplls of vidual, L^siS, xjqs. Sterling ip
money, with an allowance of L. 5 Sterling for comnMuiioa*
cicn^ents \ and as ibe m;nifter feels^ £q he .cannot help c^*
prefling, much gratitude to all the heritorp^ who, far fnm
oppoiing his getting an augmentation of (Upend, voluntarily
concurred an his application to the Cpmr^ of Teinds.
State of the Poor. — The number of poor upon the roil
of the pariih is confiderable, being above 70 pierfons. The
fund for their partial fupport and relief arifes from the
weekly coUedions, which will amount to about L. ao Ster-
ling ^^r a/i/r»/n, and the intereft of Ln 124, a late donation
by pious perfons conneAed with the pariih. Since the
year 17749 General Sir HeQor Munro of Novar has order-
ed a very liberal and charitable bounty of 12 bolls oat-meal
to be annually diftributed among the poor of the parifhi^
which freqaeptly proves a very (eaipnabU fupply ^ ; fl^d
it is owing to the dated and exeonplary attendance of the
refiding heritors on public woriUp, that the weekly col-
ledions amount to the fum already mentioned, which is tar
fuperiof to tb( colledions of neighboariog country pariflies.
One inftance this of die laany happy e^eftsi of which tbe
regular
tfjintfs. gj^
tegular fttteMboice bf th^ higter Yaaks^ oa the ia«r«d infii-
muoB5 of reUgieiii would be prodd&fve*
Sctoolj.''^Thert are three fchools in the pariih. A pa-
rochial fichool near th^ chorch, iii whiob 60 ehiUren are
nfinUjr tatight. The fdhoolfilafter'» fakry is 206 mtrkM
Scota; but hb iaeomey iadtidtng bis appointmeiits of fef-
fion-ckrk aad preceatori together with the emolutncilts of
the fehoolt wiU bo above Lb %o Sto^liogt In tha higher
parts of Ihc i^arifh^ there ate two fehboie eflablifhed bj the
Hoooarabie the Society iti Scotland for Propagatimg Cht^
flitn Knowledge $ one for inflrudiilg childrea in rt^dbngf
writing, and arithmetici and another for teaching joiing
girk fpinningy fewing, and knitting flockings. In both,
there are above 60 bojs and girls generally taught.
Ores. — On the property of Andrew Munro of Lealdie
bas been difcovered an iron ore, which, from appearances,
lieems to be of confiderable extent. It is alfo of a rich qua*
lity. A fample of it, which has been fent to the Carron
Company, at their own defire, produced 75 lb. iron per
cwt. The rock is of eafjr acceis, but is three miles diftant
from the ihore. It may, however, at fome future time,
become a fource of confiderable benefit to the proprietor.
CbaraSer of the People. — The people are naturally judi-
oioDs and acute, pofleffing confiderable vigour of mental
facalties. They are alfo, on the whole, induftrious and
fober, and, with a few exceptions, of good morals. They
abftain carefully from profane fwearing, and rarely utter
an oath. To the Sabbath they pay a iacred regard ; many
of them are devoutly difpofed, and feem to feel deep im-
preflions of religion on their hearts. They all belong to
the Eftablifhed Church, and difcover no particular propen-
iity to fanatical fe^rifm^ It muft be confcfiedi however,
that
540
Statijlical Account
that Come of them do not diftingailh os^they ought,
the'means and the end of religion ; an error not i
where religion is moft profefled-
languagi^f'^Die Gaelic or Erfe language
fpoken b J the country people, and is their native 1
The Englithi however, has madeyerjconfiderable ]
^ in the pariih for ao years back, owing to the I
ceived from the number of Ichools planted in it mnch^
that time. The heritors and higher ranks ieldom
Gaelic, but fome of them nnderfiand it to well, as
able to convctie with fuch of their tenants as have i
liOi.
MUM.
1 ;
lt\*/h'Hf fit9t/r *JJ./, /. /. \ '^
ofStornowqv. . ' 241
NUMBER VL
PARISH OF STORNOWAY,
(CoUKTT OF Ross, Stkod OF Glekzlg, Presbytery
OF Lewis).
My thi Riv. Mr Colin Mackekzie.
Namtf SUuaiiofi9 and ExttttL
SToRNowAY, or StronevaidHi is focalled from its being
ficuated on the nofe or point of a baj. Tke inhabited
parts of this parifli maj refemble the figure of a triangle,
one fide of which extends ten miles north-eafl, along the
north fide of an arm of the fea, called the Broad Bay, and
another along a neck of land, inhabited on each fide, ex«,
tending (even miles, and fituated betwixt the fouth-eaft fide
of the Broad Baj and the channel which divides it from
t^e continent. It is fituated in the ifland of the Lewis,
county of Ro(s, withip the bounds of the Synod of Glen^
elg, and pteibytery of Lewis. It is bounded on the weft
by the pari(h of Barvas from which it is divided by a traft
of ten compute^ miles of m.ofs or waile xpoor \ on the
Vol. "AXty H h north,
249 ' Statijiical Account
north, by Nefs and the ocean ; on the eail, bj the cbanari )
oo the fouth, by the channel and the river Creed, which
divides it from the pari(h of Loohs. It confilb of three di*
flri^, namely, Stornowaj, Ui, and Grre(s« At the head
of this triangle ftands the well-known village of Stpmowaj,
whofe origin b very old, and, like other towns, from a
fmall beginning, is now arrived to fome diftinfiion and uti-
lity. On an plevated fitvialion on the other fide of the bay,
near and oppofite to the town, is built Seaforth Lodge, for
the reception and accommodation of Seaforth, the proprie-
tor of this ifland, when he chofe to come and vifit thb part
pf his eftate, find y^here th? prefent proprietor. Colonel
Francis Humberfione Mackenzie, a gentleman untverfally
Known for benevolence and a public fpirit, did refide for
fome years with his family *, who, with his lady, when here,
took pleafure in dire&ing and fuperintending their people
to habits of induftry and happinefs, until he was called a<p
way, at the commencement of the prefent war, to ferve hb
King and country, by raifing two battalions of infantry for
Government. This manfion is delightfiilly fituated, and
commands an extenfive view both of fea and land.
Stomoway is furnifhed with an excellent and well-fre-
qttented harbour, where veiTels of every defcription may
anchor with fafety *. The attention and induftry of its prin-
cipal inhabitants are chiefly directed to filhing pf herrings,
of which, in fuccefsful years, they take fome thoufand bar-
rels, and have about thirty-five veflels from 20 to 80 tons
burden, annually fitted for the bounty at a great expence,
and by the profits anting from them they are chiefly fup-
portcd. In fome late years notwithftanding, their utmoft
endeavours have been almoft wholly Froftrated by the fail-
ing of the fifhing \ of cpnfequence, they muft be great fuf-
ferers by their adventures in this bufineis, as the bounty-
fponey will not defray their expence. The houfes are bnilt
f ^ Ydnt of this town snd haiiKmr is aoncxe^
of Stombwayi 243
A m eon^derable coft, becaufe all the materiab are import*
cd, the ftooes not excepted, and therefiire fuch as are vs*
cant muft be fet to tenants for higher rent than in. moft
other places. Good honfes are let at from L. 13 to L. 25
p€r annumt and rooms and leiTer dwellings in like propor-
tion. Some of the land aboat the town is let for 36 s. fer
acre yearly*
' ^r^oo/r.— -There are two ti^.ell-frequented ichook in the
town» provided with able teachersi ,good accomouxiatioOf
and good (alaries, ' The one is parochial, and the other is
fupported bj the Society for Propagating Chriftian Know-
ledge. The yearly falary of the parochial fchool is L. 40,
of which the mafter has L4 25, and his affiftant L. 15. The
mailer has, together with the emoluments of his fchool, a
dwelling-houfe and garden rent-free, and fome land from
the proprietor. The fees arc, per quarter, for £ngli(h and
writing, fts. 6d.} for arithmetic and Engliihi 3S.1 for
I<atin, writing, arithmetic together, 4 s. ^ for a courfe of
geography, los. 6d.; for navigation, L. i, zs. ; and for
each let of book-Jkeeping, zo s. 6 d. The number of fcho«
lars is 40. The Society fchoolmaller's dwelling-houfe and
ichooUhottfe are lately built with ftone and lime, and cover-
ed with date at Seaforth's expence. The ialary is L. 17 to
the mafler, and L. 8 to his affiilanc. The quarter-fees are,
for reading, z s. 6 d. ; writing, 2 s. ; arithmetic, as. 6 d. ;
book-keeping, s^\f menfuration, 5 s.; navigation, zos.
The number of fcholars is Z29.
Befides thefe, there is a fpinning-fchool eftabliflied by the
Society ; the accommodation confiiliog of a garden and a
'flatcd hottfe, with L. 6 ialary granted by Seaforth, and L. 4
falary from the Society, to the miftrefs. To this fchool,
and two others of the fame kind, ereSed in this pariih, but
now laid afide for want of the requifite number of fcholars,
Mrs Mackenzie of Seaforth, a lady eminently difiinguilhed
' for
244 Statiftical AccfwU
for great homanit j and charity, gave much ooonteiianct
and encouragementi bj diftribating fiberal premiums among
the' fcholan akid miftrefles, and bj perfenallj vifiting them,
and taking particular cognifance of their proficiencj and
fisveral performances in fpinning and knitting of ftockings^
therebj incitinf them to emulation and diligence. She has
now the fatisfia£tion to find, that bj her kind interpofition
and benevolent exertions to introduce and pronaote fpin«
ntng of yam in this ifland, manj poor girb have been ref-
cued from habits of idlenefi and vice, and trained to induf-
try and virtue.
Cuftomhoufi. — Here there is a cuftomhoufct the revenue
of which, after pajing incidental charges, will not amount
to L. 20 \ and alfo a King's cutter, sis a check to finugglbg
among the Hebrides.
Pacia oMd Pojl'ojke^— There is a packet eflabtiOled by
Grovernment fince the year 1759, which for fome yean
went to the oppoiite coail once a fortnight for themail^ by*
letters and paflbigers, and on occafions carried cattle and
horfes ; but bufinefs and correfpondence greatly increafing,
it was found neceflary that it fliould fail oftener for Hhe
mail. Accordingly, the old packet was fold lately, and a
new one purchafed, which goes weekly for the mail, the
expence whereof annually amounts to L« X30, of which L.70
is paid by Government, and the balance of L. 60 paid by
Seaforthy except what is colleded by the freights of paflen-
gers, which cannot be great : Freight from a s. 6d. to 4 s. 6d.
each paflenger.— There is alfo a poft-office* The amount
of pofiages charged from the General Pod-office at Edin-
burgh to Stomoway was, in 1791, L. 50, and is now increa-
fed to about L.9o. The amount of letters fent from Stor-
noway
(ff StOTtttwiP^*
^AS
nowaj wilt be nearly equal to* the receipts' frofm Edin-
burgh.
Papulation and Numher o/Houfis^ Uc.
Stqla0«rqr and
Bajbetd.
76©
ftflift or Couooy. Goathill aii4
Imeriligacli.
Families, 287 130
Total fouk, 1199 ^ 580
Males, 625 229
Females, 674 3x7
Under 6 years, 218 74
Between 6 & 14, 225 63
Between 14& 60, 700 31^
Above 60, X j6 90
Cattk, 236X 79
Sheep, 2576 —
Horfes, 556 i—
Slated inhabited bonfes in Stomowaj,
Built of which fince X784,
Refiding tradefmen : Joiners,
Mafons*
Carpenters,
Smiths, in the town,
■ I ■ in the country,
Tailors,
Shoemakex9,
Weavers,
Turners or wheelwrights,
Gardeners, * -
Shopkeepers,
Innkeepers,
Total,
TotaL
2639
854
9fr
afT
288
X019
X46
«^440
2576
556
6j
26
XX
4
7
2
2
XI
16
2
4
8
85
Baptifms
^46 Stati/Kcal Account
Bipdfint in 1792, in.the whole pariih :
Males, * - 70
Females, - - 65
Total, - . 135
Marriages, - - ao
Borials, about • %o
Fopuladoii accordmg to Dr Wehfier in 1755 was i8ia
The popuhtion in 1796, is - ^639
locreafis^ S27
Fj^mef^— The feUovring table*will give the reader fome
idea of the Fiiheries carried on in this neighbourhood :
An
I I
o > r
Oi .S ^
S g s
.« - ««
tJ a, .S
W ^ S.
»*< wi S»
« « O'
9 oa u
« rg ^
S < Q*
^ M ^
-g 6 S
Si *^ cy
•e
€
0
^
11
p4 2
of Stornaway,
\
9»^
■t4
h
to M e9 li, li, Ct
I r* 1 1 1
O C« tt%m OHM
0\V0 ^ «t^ OS »^
v^-« d^r^ wjr^
«:0 ^ ^SO NO vo
Ct) M C^ M M« C9
M t I I i
1
Q C« €« O O O
M M M M
00 «Ot>-Cl OSM
2i&
wpoe CI i#^ ^ «^
O 00 f^ ^ M>C
•*^ ^ *^ ^o
i=^
3
1 1 I 1 1 ^
11*111
O O M M rt) M
VO «^ ^eooseo
r^ w^ci 2^ -» 00
000 totn^ef
M »*• «» COM
•^ 1 '^. ^ «n^O
0\ ^ Ov 0\ ON o^
247
■4p'*»*«rw
a^t Statiftieal Account
jlgrietJHfMmm^TY^Tt aie about twelve hr^ fimm ia
the parifli, «ad what portion of eac^ of them is npt occn-
pied by the tackfoian himielfy is let, to {iibteiit«t$» who paj
to hinni mh peribiiy from L. i, to s. to L. 3 of jrearly rent»
asd II daj9 fenricc* Many of tbdie fab-tenants are em-
ployed in filhilig lin^ which they fell to th^ mafters at
5 d. each ; engaging on board the herring-bnfics at L. i per
month ; ia munufirfhiring kelp at L. i» xes. per ton ; and
working at road-makings and other labour, at 8 d. a-day.
By thela nioana^ and the prodnte of thek landa, they are
enabled to pay their rents, and prfcnre a tolerabla fiibfift-
ence.— *The foil is <tf difierent kinds, fome iandy, fome
mofly, fume black rich foil, and fome light gravd, aQ lying
on a hard c^y bottom, fo very impenetrable, that a pike
win fcafcely pieiice it. Rain can with difficulty enter into
it, but remains mixed with the foil, or runs over the far-
face, tin it be arieJup in the fpring feafon by the infloence
of the fun and wind. To thb caufe, and the frequent hea-
vy rains, may be attributed the uncommon wetaels and
coldneft (tf tfte ibil of this ifland, and the late fpring and
harveft. The plough made ufe of in general is an awk-
ward inftrumenty not onlike the Chinefe plough, and de-
fcribed already in this work by a clergyman in Orkney ;
but the principal tackfmen ufe the Scotch and Engliih
ploughs, of which there will be ' a dozen in the paridi.
Horfe-loads are for the moft part carried in fmall creels
one onieach fide of the horfe, and fixed by a rope to the
crook-Qiddla ; but ^oup-carts, of which there are aboat %o
in the pariftu ve made ufe of by the gentlemen, and are
drawn by lgi:ger horfes than th.ofe found in the pariih.
There is a general ^mode of tuning the ground, called
timidbf or making lazy«beds, at which two perftns are
employed on each fide nf the ridgej; of tbefe, two are cat-
ling, and two lifting the dods, whi^hi to a ftranger, will ap-
pear
9f Stornaway. 249
pear mbfordy tedious, and laborious, but here is found to be
oeoeflmiyy and productive of the greateft returns, in regatd
tiiat it gacheiB the ground/ and raifes it from the reach of
the rifing and running water, with coii of which the fields
dMNittdy and which otherwife would fink and dettroy the
iSsed. The feed fown is black «ats and barley. With the
utmoft diffiadty, about 40 years ago, the people were pre-
vailed on to plant potatoes, but of which they now plant
great quantities, by the plough and by the ijpade, and find
them to be the moft ufefol of all crops raifed in the pariih.
They are ibid at from 3 s. to 5 s./#r barrel. In no ieafon is
the produce of thb pariih fufficient to maintain its inhabit
tants, who would often be in danger of fu£Fering through
want, were it not for the extenfive importation of meal tP
Stomoway*
Air andClimott.'^Tht air is extrendy moiil, ^nd the
dtmate very rainy. The dampneis of the air is fo great,
tiiat poliihed iron, where conftant fire is not kept, will ctm*
traft mft in le& time than 14 houn. The inhabitants of
this ifland might live in comfiortable drcumftances, were it
not for the frequent and heavy rains which &H in it all the
ieafons of the year, and more efpedally in harveil, where-
by the hopes of the hufi>andman are often blafted, and the
fruit of his toil and induitry loil. Such a climate may na-
turally be expeAed in a fituation fo far to the north, and
fiirrounded by an eztenfive traft of deep wet mofs on the
one fide, and the ocean on the other, though no high bilk
are here to break tiie clouds, as on the oppofite msdnland*
The oldeft people afiirm, that fince their youth, the cli-
mate and feafons are greatly changed for worfe. Never-
thelefr, the inhabitants are healthy, and Uve to^as great age
as they do in a better climate, fome living to the age of 9b
or looyeafk
Vol. XIX. I i The
ajr Staiiftk^l Jtcnnt
Tbe £HifilD#«id weifther Ate ve^y vmyMMi M^ wnt h^
ito depended o»« We b^ve lifHfe w^mb er b«?fe ia iw^
ftier ;* aatiH^o ia rftioy ; the winlfer uiu&Ujp not fo fevere aai
on tte q0otjneiit)» but mons opes^ «»d fr^oC ffhnr MHlfr4»AU
Oar ijpikig i* oftct^ we« ftiid cold. Sowifi|^ of <iBCf com*'
nuenee^ Il6re^ ma' drjr fprifigi ^i^ f^kne few indiviAl^als^ w
tbe be9inaiRK;of MaiKb, but not in ^jHiertl titf «feftt ifar
llkiddle of April. Bftrie j ia^ f<iw» from the bcginauig off
May eo the aid of JoHeL Potatoes are flanted from the
middle of Ap#il to the aoth day of Ifay.* Harvltft gm«-
rally b^as ahbui the middle of Seplembor. ind the cr6g
is not totftHj gat iiHo tbe beratf and baffs-yifda bofaro No^
v€mbor.
Li/eaJis^iryTlkp only local and pecnHar diftemper pirr»t
lent in this parifb, it a diforder which fcizes new- bom io-
faota about the fifth night after their birtb* aftd carriea
them off by coavulfive fitaj but tbis fpe^es of fickneis m
^ooie leis frequent than it baa been hentdfore. Rbeii-
ffiatifm is often complained pf. Inoeulatioo iA .performed
here with fuco^fs by the ikiUaDd attention of Mr John Mil-
lar, fqrgeon.
Ecclejajical State of the Pari/b.-^Tha prefent inctin^^
bent, Mr Colin Mackenzie, was admitted minifief of Stor-
poway the a7th day of Augufi 1789. His predeceflora
were, Mr Donald Monfon ; Mr Johi^ Clark, who was ad-
piitted the xgth day of Fel^ruary 1747, and dixA loch day
,pf Auguft 177a; Mr John Downier now mimafr of Ur-
niy, who was admitted 2 2d day of Joiy I773t and traaf*-
lated to h}s prefent pariQi the a5th day of September ijiS^
which lafl Mr Mackenzie fucceeded ia the charge. He
has been married near two years, and has one fon. By the
jatc augmentation, the living confifts of L, 88 : 13 j 4 Ster-
liB|f>
ling, -wkh tt-ittMfTei and flebe\0f eight acfes, vtAiktA «t L. 5.
The^fft maiife Aiidgkfbe were aK StOFOowuy ^ theprefoDC
glebewtaidtfiigiied^tMre at t'eog^ on the jtb'dey of Oftg-
<ber r758, and the mftAfe 4>uilt ihereoo. The flianfe wm
4>ailt yj.ytars ago, has often been*repaifeily and needs nov
to be rebmh. The^fitaaCien k^ld and Wet. The ehnreh
is new bnik, and Wegantlj-finMipd. No «paridi>ftands in
greater 'Want tff a milliensH'jthftn ihk, there •being upwar<}»
of x 000 todh who have not an opportimkjr <>f 4mne wolw
ftip, and ihe^>enefit erf* public inftradion, 'exoepi «n.everj
fifth Sabbath. In order to acconinaodate the nnber two dU
ftrids of the pariih with divine ferviee akematelj erevjr
fifth Sabbath, the chnrch at Stornoway muft be vacant on
that day, which k felt as no faiall grievance and disadvan-
tage to the intereft <sf religion vmong fo nuineroo8«a-90tt«
gregation.
^6i -Poor.— A^ilft'Mrs Mackenzie df Seaforth refidedin
this parUh, the moft indigent and infirm of the poor were
fiipported<by a bounty of me^ given by licr, and tfiftri-
'bnted weiekly to theni'in proportion to* their Several neceC-
"fities, in*lteu of which Seaforth gives them an annual dona-
tion of ten guineas, to be laid out in mealfor their ufe^
thb, with the weekly colleftion, amounting yearly to about
X. 10, nndds, and the annual rent of a fund of (L. ico gra^
dually made up, is all they have to depend upoa from the
kitk-feffion. Their number is f 27, fixty-three of whom
five about Stornoway.
f/fce oftcihour^ an'i Wages o/Setvofits.'-^ert, indeed,
by reafon of the multitudes 4e vied for^the army and navy,
the great number of fub-tenants, and the many hands want-
ed for the filhingboats, labourers and farm-fervants are be-
come very icarce and difficult to be found. The wages of
men-
25it Statyikal AcamM
rlsboarea m 8 d* n-daj without meat, aad 6d. widb
two mtals of moat and a dram. Women, 6d. a^daj^ or
4d. with two meak of meat. The daj-wages of acerpen-
tarandmaioB, is. 6d. with vidnak; finith^is.} tailor,
a s. withaat, or 6d. with meat \ jobait^ i s. 6 d. /«r daj;
ikoemaken, to d* and i s» /«r daj* Mea-fervaott for &nn-
worL from L. a, to L. 5 per annmm^ and a pair of fhoes at
78.; for womeA4in:vant8, from xos. to aos. and a pair of
•Ihoes-at Su Herds, for looking after cattle, from 6 meiks
to 8s. and a pair of flioes, with other finall perqoifites.
The wages of domeftic fervants are nearlj the iame widi
ihpfe of farm-fervaat8»
JloMbyV^it— Road-making was onlj began in this illand in
179X } and a road b made, £oar miles diftance from Stor-
noway, acrofi a deep mois of 10 computed miles, to the
other fide of it.— Near to Stomoway there k an annnal
tryll &r cattk, where feme hnndreds are bought and ez«
ported, at from L. i, xos. to L* 3 a«head. — ^Beef iafoU in
.Stomoway from x{ d. to 3 d. per lib. \ mutton, 5 s. and 6s.
per wedder \ (keep, 3 s. 4 s. and 4 s. 6 d. each % kmbs,
X s. 8 d. and a s. each. Butter, la s. and 14 s. per fiooe^
cheefe, 4s* and 5 s. per ftone. Veal% 1 s. 6 d. each \ pork,
%d.per lih.\ fowk, 4 d* acock, and 6d.ahen; ducks, 6d.
and 8 d. % geefe, x s. 6 d. and a s. — ^The fpecies of animsk
here are of a (mailer fize than in moft other places. In this
ifland are found no fezes, badgers, nor hares, till of kte
years five hares were introduced by Seaforth, which are '
now increafed to almofi as many hundreds. Sea-fbwli^ and
birds ef the iaoae kind with thofe on the continent, are to
be met with, except partridgesi robin-red-breafis, rod^
and magpies^ .^ ^
Rffnarlobk
. qfSiprnowaj. 253
Ranarlahk Inftance o/Prefirvf^m.'^'Eight yeap ago, a
father and child, (a girl aboat eight years of age)b .going
£rom Stomoway acrols the moor, in company with federal
others, the father having forgot to execute fome^part of his
bufine(s in the town, hailily returned* and committed the
eare of his child to thofe in company with her, till he would
overtake them ; the child iqadyertently falling behind, was
not mifled, till the travellers had proceeded far on their
way, and the &ther had overtaken thein ; who .a$ foon aa
be found that his child waa not in company^ ii^ftantly
flew away like one diftcafied in quefi of her, and with all
the pangs of paternal Torrow, returned again to J^tomoway,
late at night, weary and dilappointed. Next day* inany
people went &r and near in fearch of her, through, deep
foow, and a tracklels moor, repeating their diUgence and
mbuteft fcrotioy for feveral days fucceffively without, ef-
&6L When they had utterly defpaired to find her, .(^o-
conceivable to believe it I) on the eighteenth day after .Ihe
was lofit the helpleis an4 unwary wanderer was,; by a man
axd dog, found near the lea-fide, alive and in motion, but
lb fiunt and exhaufied by cold and hunger, that (he could
aot walk. She. was carried to the town, humanely. re«
ccived, and all.neoeffary means u£Bd to reftore her ajmoft
expiring life to health and ftrength. She was too y9ung tq
give any diftind account of the maoner in which -flie was
enabled to fubfift fo long without food and ibelter from the
cold. She is now in the fervioe of Mrs Mackenzie pf Sea-
forth, at Seaforth Lodge, who has been remarkably kiqd
to her from the time of the above accident.
JVood.^Jievt no woods grow to any u(eful height or
fize. The proprietor, fome years ago, planted a variety of
trees in a weU<(hcltered fpot of ground near his houfe, which
have
t54 Siaf^/Hra! Acctnmt
iMnre-vH 'fiHedy-ezcept'ttie dar, and moiUMiin-alh or tiioi^
€fatrF.-iNot brfrom theTarm df Greb, there is a large
evre, accifflble only from the fea, Where there was aboot
50 years ago % tA namber dffeals lulled annually^ and the
prfllSftice is fSM continuedi but now feldom more than leven
or twcSve are dellroyed. The method of killing is this : -
A number of people ifflemfble about low water, and carry
aboat into the cave as far as ihe can proceed ; they take
from the'boat a pot, whichthey have 'filed with live coil«
anflwith which ftey light their torthes; they dien MH
upon the -poor feals without mercy, with dubs Ihod' with
iron. The entry of^tbe cave is veryiteep and narrow on
itfrfides, and does-not admit «more than the breadth 6t a fix-
oared boat. After going in a great way, -the light xttd^j
becomes ' fomeWhat dbfonred, and they tStttn meet with m
large pillar, which Umdes the eare -afthis iHace into two
large openings or arches, by one of which^they enter, mil
Wilk'm long way under, where they meet with 'large torn-
bling round fiones, fiirrounded in part with water. As
they.advanee further in,'they come'toa'finepleafiuitbeacAp
where they ^meet* with -the feals; fiirther'in ftill, there ta-m
find! chaniber, which by the light of'the tordhes appears re-
markably-white, its roof being all covered with white^ftm^
la£Bt«, whidi ere hanging from the roOf, like to large ici*.
cks *, .£>me of them put on the figure of hieroglyphics, anil
each Of them feems perforated from the bafe to the poiat
with a fmall tube. It is within very high, and founds very
loud, when the voice is exalted, but has no particular echo.
FromHhe outer entry to the i^nermoft part of it, is no left
thaa one-eighth of an Englilfa-mile.
I SUP.
9f Stornowaf. »5 «
SUPPLEMENT,
By another Hand^
Stronowat has its modern name from the fituation of
the village, which is built on a point jutting into the har-
bour, and in the language of the country called Stron a
Bbaigl^ or, the Nofe of the Baj, from which, by an eafy
traniition, comes Stomoway. Ui was the ancient name of
the parifli. There is in it a place called Ui, which was of
otd the only place of worihip in the parifli, and is fituated
on a narrow neck of land ; every fuch neck of land, or iflh-
mus« whether formed by creeks of the fea, or by the appro-
ximation of frefli-water lakes, is in Lewis called Ui, which,
in the DaniQi language fignifies any fuch neck of land ;
and t)ie particular Ui already mentioned having been in
former rime the only place devoted to divine wor&ip, gave
its ancient name to the parifli.
The extent of it is ten computed miles in length, and it9
breaddi in feme places feven. It is bounded by the parifli
of Barvas on the north ; on the north-eaft by the channel
between Lewis and the main of Scotland ; and on the fouth
and weft by the parifli of Lochs. The general appearance
*»f it is a fiat moor, of little utiUty to beafts, and of none to
man, all covered with heath. The ifland is compared to a
gold-laced hat ; the internal part of which confifts of this
foft and ttfelefs moor, and the circumference of which is in
part more or left cultivated at the fea-lide. Near the town
of Stomoway the foil is a light black mould, forced into
feme culture from mofr; to the northward, the foil is co-
vered by drifted fand ; but farther back, of fimilar quality^
to that near the town. Neither of thefe foils, when pro*
perly drained and roaouredi can be called unferule.
The
256 Statijlkai^ Account
The air U moift, but agrees weD with the natives. The
prevailing diftempers are the fame with thofe ftated in the
account of the pariifa of Uig. The moor in this pariih
abounds in lakes. There are fix fxnall rivulets. The freih«
water lakes contain great quantities of fmall trout. Three
of the rivulets produce fome £almon and (ea-trout* The
£i|nion is fold frefii at i d. per EngUfli pound in Stomowaj.
Their fifh is vtrj poor ; thej are beft in July and Augufi.
The length of the fea-coaft is a^omputed miles ; the ihore
in feme places is rocky, and in fome flat and £uidy.
There it a great quantity of ling oir the coaft, and a few-
cods, both of which are well cured and drif d by the conn-
try people ; they/c|l thtm at above L. 14 Sterling /^r tcxi
to the Stomoway merchants^ who fend them to foreign
markets. They are all caught with long lines \ the hooks
are baited with pieces of fmaller fifties. The utmofi quan-
tity fifliedy one year with another, does not exceed from ao
to 30 tons. They are m<^ in feafon in fpring. Herrings
are caught in Loch Stomoway, fome years in great abun«
dance, and fome not. The cod a|id ling are always ftacion«
ary here. There are 30 decked vefiels belonging to this
I>ort, from 10 to 80 tons burden each, which are employed
in the fummer feafon in the herring bounty-fifliing, and at
other timte in the coafting trade* They are manned with
natives of the iiland, and are always victualled, except ]»
to the article of beef only, in the country.— Common ica*
weed is always ufed for manure. A few tons of kelp are
manufadured every third year in the pari(h«— The prin*
cipal Bays are, — Broad Bay, South Bay, Loch Storno-
way, and Loch GrimOiader ; the laft is a fafe harbouf
for fmall vcfiels/, the firft but an indifferent otie. In
South Bay veflels fometimes ftop for a tide, but it is no
harbour. Loch Storooway is a famous harbour for £hips
of any burden ^ the ground is good, and no weighty iea can
ever
ofSiornoway^ 257
ever come in to it. The four principal headlands are
TolOa-head, Seller-head, Tiumpan-head, and Pebble-head.
In this parifli there is a remarkable cave, into which the
fea goes at high water. When it was firft noticed, vaft
numbers of ieals were killed in it ; and the pradice is ftill
continued once a-year, about Michaelmas. It is only ac**
ceffibk from fea ; the people land from dieir boat oppoiite
to the cave in time of low water, at ipring-tide ; they walk
forward, and being fnraiihed with fire, they light torches
at the entry to die cave, which is dark far in, and they
knock to death all the (eals found there with heavy blud-
geons armed with iron. At firft it was not uncommon to
£ee 50 killed at a time \ but now the number 4oes not ex-
ceed from 7 to I a. At the brtheft end, there is a fmall
apartment, the top of which is lined with ftalaSits, ot icicles,
of a very firm confifience ; it is about an eighth part of an
Englifh mile in length, and its height is variable.*— The
otter, and tighan or foumart, are found in this parifiiu Moor-
fowl, plover, and wild pidgeon, are in great abundance.
la the country part of the parifli are fpua and Hvovea all
the cloth neceflary for labourers, and make all the broags
nfed there. Mrs Mackenzie of Seaforth gives encourage-
ment in this as well as in the other pariflies of X^ewis, to
indnftriotts females, in the ipioning of flax, &cl and be*
flows L. 10 yearly on the poor. — ^In this parifli these is one
attorney, and one folitary Roman Cathdic prieft, without
an individual of a £ock. In the town thore aise many bat-
chelots among the fuperior rank. The number of inhabit-
ed flated houfes in this town is 6,7. They are all made of
the beft materials ; fome of them large, commodious and
well fumiflied; they are generally two ftories high and
a garret; there is a cuftomhoufe, with all its proper
officers, a town-honfe, an aflembly-room, and two fchool-
hoo£es; one for the. parochial grammar-fchool, and the
yoj..XIX. Kk other
1)5 8 Statifticai Account
other for the Sorictj fchool eflibliflied 'there.— On the
north-weft fide of the town there are upwards of twentj
thatched houfes, which have ftrong walls and gables, with
glafs-VPindowSy all in a Kne, frontiojg the fide of the bay
where it grows narrow. On the north fide of the town
there is a great number of miferable thatched huts, bcca*
pied by failors, filhers, and other people, with their fiimi-
lies, ' The poor inhabitants of thofe huts have boQc mors
coihmodioQj thatched hoofes along the fliore of the baj» eaft
of the town \ and Mr Mackenzie of Seaforth gives evcrj
head of a family one guinea to encourage them to remove,
and to help them in defraying the expences incurred on the
occafion. He gives thofe poor people 30 years leaTe of
their dwell ing-placesi to each of whicb'a fioiiall garden b
joined, and they pay three S<?otch merks yearly for every
fuch houfe-room and garden. He gives them full liberty
to cultivate as much as they Can of a neighbouring moor,
and exads no rent for feven years for fuch parts thereof as
they bring into culture.-f-In this, and all the other pariihes
of the Ifland, the women carry on as much at leaft of the
labours of agriculture as the men \ they carry the manure
in baikets on their backs ; they pulverize the ground after
it is (own, with heavy hand-rakes, (harrows being feldom
iifed), and labour hard at digging the ground, both with
crooked and ftraight fpades.-«^Tbe people of the rown fel-
doni have menfervants engaged ibr the yes^* ; and it is a
puripps circumflance, that, time out of Remembrance, their
maidfervants were in the habit of drinking, every morn-
ing; a wine glafs full of whiflcy, which their miftrefs gave
them ; this barbarous cpftom became fo well efiaUiOied by
lengtb of tune, that if the pra^Uce of it fliould happen to
be ne^v' fted or forgotten in a family, even once, difcontent
find idlenels throughout the day, on die part of tfae^maid or
jnaids, )fvould be fte fpre confequence. However, fincc the
ftoppj^ge
flO{>^ge of th^ diflilleries took place, the pe6ple of the
town foahd it neceflary to unite in th^ refolucioa'.df i^bo*
lilhing the pradice, by withholding the dear Cordial from
their female domeftics/ but not without the precaution o^
making a compenfation to them in mode j for their griev^
out lofs; and it is iaidj that even this is not'&tis&&or7^
and that, in (bme families,' the dram isflillgiveaprivatelyi
to pre&rve peace and gbod order.
About 200 jards from the town, on the ^pofite, or
fouth-weft fide of the bajr, and upon an eminence^ flahds
Stafortb Lodge^ a neat modem houfe.
The ohlj crops in this pariih are fmall oats, batley, and
potatoes. Ttie pariih never fnpplies itfeif with fofiicientgr
of provifion, but always imports 1^ great deal from Caith^
aeis, Berwick, &c. and is at this time (1796) in great diftreisi
without a probability of a fpeedy rupply.-*Black cattlo
are bought by dealers from the fouth yearly in this and
the other pariihes of the tfland, and driven to England^
where they thritre amazingly, although the^ breed is bntf
fmalL — A little flax and hemp is raifed berfc.--'They ion^
in April and May, and f^p in September and O^ber.i-^
There is no wood of any kind. The whole ifland i'eems^
in ancient time, to have been covered with wood, as ia
proved by fiumps of large trees and hazltMiot fhells bein^
found at the fides of rivulets, and in the moor, at the depth of
14 feet, where the people dig peats. According totraditiony
the Norwegians fet the whole uoods on fire When thty
took poffeffion of the country.— The great difadvantage of
this and the neighbouring pariQics arifes from the poverty
of the foil, and the badnefs of the climate, the latter of
which this ifland experiences in common with aU the other
ifl<inds and Highlands of Scotland. — If the circumftances of
the people in the country part of this pariih could admit
of it, they might derive great advantages from the gowi-
nc&
26d Staii/Hcat Accwnt
nefi of the harbour »( Stornoway, as well as from the vic^
mxj of the vUlage.-^The Gaelic laagoage is principalljr
fpokeOy and the names of places are eyidently derived firooi
the Danifli and Norwegian.— The value of the living, the
glebe not inclodedy is L. 86. It is ia the gift of the Grown.
Mr Colin Mackenzie is minifter i he b a married man, and
has one fon.— A very elegant church was lately boik at
Stornoway ; the internal eeconomy of it is very nearly E-
niihed ; the expence of the whole work is faid to amount
to L. 900. This fabric does great honour to the proprietor.
The manfe is old, but commodious.— Francis Humberfioa
Mackenzie of Seaferth is fole heritor of the landed proper-
ty in this pariih.-^The poor are fupported by the inhabi-
tants when they come to their houfes in courfe ; the kirk-
feffion dillributes among them fuch fums of money as ari&
ffom the coIlefHons 00 Sabbath-days, and fines from irre-
gular perfons«— The country people commonly iell cattle
alive to the inhabitants of Stornoway at di&rent prices,
confiormed to their fize and (juality, and to the demand for
fuch in other parts of the kingdom. When they fell them
by weight, they draw from 2 d. to 3 d. per lib. Small wed-
ders are fold at 5 s. and 6 s. each -, and the common fowb
at 6 d.— When the feafon for cutting peats comes 00, the
fervice of the country people cannot be difpenfed with by
thofe in the town. The former, both males and femalesi
come forward in great numbers, and receive from 4 d. to
6 d. per day, and they muft be feafted on the occafion,
otherwife the work Ihall be found very defie^ive. When
the peats are dry, the people are again called upon to lead
them home, which work is condu^d with equal expence.
The wages paid to labourers in huibaodry is much about
the fame here as in the neighbouring parifbes. — Ytvt
ploughs are ufed here. They have, in this country, the
moft awkward inflniment of tillage ever applied to the
I purpofe^
of Stormway. a6i
ptupole; it is drawn by hprfes, and bears but a fiunt re*
femblance to a ploogh, having only one ftilt ; the ufe of it
is prodttfiive of great fatigue to men and horfes \ and after
ally the groond is wretchedly ill turned.
On a (mail point near the town, there is a veftige re-
maining of a caftle built for the proteAion of the place, by
the Macleodsi the ancient pofleflbrs of the ifland. Not
far from it there was another tower, built by Cromwell te
awe the neighbourhood ; no 'part of this one remains.
The people are not fond of a military life ; but early habit
reconciles them to fea-faring, and from that element they
derive their chief fubfifience.
There is a road begun and carried on for a few miles
from Stornoway towards the parifb of Barvas, which lies
in a northern diredion. The moor acrols the ifland from
Stornoway to Uig is fo eJLtenfive and foft, that it would re«
quire the labour of many ages to open a road through it.
Some years ago, a young girl, in attempting to go from
one part of the country to another, loft her way in the
pathieis moor, and could not find it i when her ftrength
failed, ihe dropped down, and notwithftanding the induftry
of the country people in quefi of her, flie was not found
until the eighteenth day after her departure from home.
To the aftonifliment of all who heard her ftory, life was
found remaining \ and by the afliduity of the furgeon, ihe
was reQored to good health and ftrength. This wonder-
fill cafie is recorded in the I2th or 14th volume of the
^edlcal Effays.
The common people of this ifland marry very early,
and when death feparates thjein, if the furviving party,
whether male or female, finds it convenient to engage a
iccond or third time in that ftate, fome of them remain a
lew weeks^ and fpme only a few days, ia widowhood ; fo
tl^at
^S&i StatifHcal Acamnt
diu grief for die lob of huibtiid or wife is an afflidioft little
known among the lower clals of people here.
A woman, in this coontry, whofe hulband fliot bim&lf
accidentaUy» bj an ungoarded. management of a finlocki
fettled her contraA of marriage, in the wajjbt tho^ghiju^
before the body of her late hniband was interred, nod was
married the liext Bay after ihe performed that laft AvScj to
the deceaied.
NUM.
ofBarods, ^363
NUMBER Vir.
PARISH OF BARVAS,
(CouKTT OF Ross, Stkod OF Glekelg, Prisbttert
AND Island of Lewis).
JBy tie Rev. Mr Donald Macdonald, Minifter. ^
Nami^ SittuOumf and ExinU,
npHE parilh of Stfiras does fiot fbrnilh much room for
'^ 'fiattiBcal inTcftigation, and the few obfervations
which occur rc^pefiing it, may be comprehended within
minrow' bounds. As to the origin of its nune, little but
coojefkure can be advanced ; it is generally thought to be
I>a*idi or Norwegian^ as thenamca of fereral other placea
on this coaft indubitably are. It is fituated in the weftem
extremity of the county of Ro&, fynod of Glenelg, and
pre(bytefy of Lewis. - It is very eztenfive, being in length
from eaft'to weft 14 oomputed nulcs, and, upon an average,
9 miles ioi-breadtb i bounded on the weft by a difiiid oi the
a64 Siatiftkal Account
pariib of Lochs; on the norths by the Atlantic Ocean; ot
the eaft bj the Minch ; and on the fimth, bj the parilbes
of Stornoway and Lochs.
Suffati and 5o£f.-— The forfaee of the whole parifii ii
pretty plain, except a few hills, at a coafiderable diflaooe
from the feai and fome fmall glens or vallies through which
rivulets run. The foil, as may naturally be fuppofed is
fuch a vail track of ground, is various. The diftrid called
.Claddoch is light, thin, Ipouty ground* and in many plaoei
fo full of iloncs, that the plough cannot go through it
Nefs confifls of fine large level fields, compoGed of Ioixd,
iand, gravel, and deep day, iwhich, in good feafons, pro-
duce tolerable crops, and in the hands of more ikilfbl and
fubftantial tenants might be turned to a very good account.
The fea-coaft, taking in the various points that jut out into
the fea, may be reckoned about 30 computed miles ; it is
bold and rugged, having a tremendous furf or fwcll upon
it, when the wind blows from the weft and north-weft.
There is not a fingle harbour where a veflel can aochoTi
and but a few creeks where boats can land, even in the
fineft weather.
CKmatt and Diftafis.^-Ax. is well known, that a great deal
•f rain fidls in moft parts of the weft. and north^weft ^
Scotland \ there is, however, left here than upon the main-
land coaft, or even in the adjacent pariflies, the hi(^ hilb
which collet the vapours, and break the clouds, being st s
confiderable diftance. The froft is feldom very imenfe;
the fiiow, in general, not deep, or of long continuance. The
air, though moift, is fiilubrious. Rbeumatifm, the geaeni
complaint of all moift climates, is very commoo; it is n-
ther matter of furprife that it is not more frequent, confi-
dering their d^mp and dirty houfes, bow much the inlia-
bitantt
* i>f Barvas. 165
Mttfmsare expofed to rain and cold, and their clothing
poor. Flannel- (hirts, which arc in general worn by the
common people, may be a good antidote againft it. Fevers
knd fluxes are not uncontmbri ; arid many infants die of a
complaint called the five nights ficknels, from their dying
of it upon the fifth or fixth liight \ there are nb inftances
of any who have been feized with it that efcaped, nor has
the nature of this uncommon difeafe been as yet fully com-
prehended by the moft fkilful upon this ifland.
Riversy IVoods^ t/r.— *There is not a fingle tree, or even
any brufliwood, to be feen in the whole parifii. There are
feveral fmall lakes or lochs, and fome rivulets, but no ftreatn
that deferves the name of a river. In thefe are various
kinds of trout, and in a few of them fome falmon. Upon
the minifier'6 farm is a fmall water, where a few fine fal-
mon, though of a fmall fize, are caught, from the month of
May till Auguft. There are a few cod, ling, and haddock,
taken upon the coaft; but the principal fifiiing is that of
dog-filh, from the liver of which they extrafi a confidcr-
able quantity of oiL Upon an average, there are{aboot 8832
Scotch pints annually manufaftored of it, and fold to the
Stomoway merchants at from 6 d. to 8 d. per pint. Five
of the annual bounties 'or premintns given by the Truftees
for encouraging this trade, «re generally gained by boats in
this pariih. The feafon for it is from the beginning of
May to the latter end of Auguft, when the weather proves
favourable ; indeed, it muf^ be vtty moderate before they
can venture to fea, which makes them exceedingly cau-
tious i^hen the wind, blo^s off the land, left they be driven
to the northern ocean. It is very aftoniihing how few ac-
cidents happen, confidering the terrible feas they encoun-
ter, and the badneis of the creeks where they land. The
number of boats employed in this fifliing is about 42^ from
Vol. XIX. LI j6
266 StatiJHcal Actouta
i6 to Z9 £eet keel, fome of 8, aad others of 6 oars* Their
onlj impkmeot is<a hand^line, with two large hooks.
Agt'UttUure^ Cattle^ iyc. —There are in the parifh about
90 ploughs* and all, except ooe (ufed by the mini&er,) of a
fingular conftruftioD *, they are made of a crooked iiaiiall
piece of wood, oo the top of which is fixed a fiik or handle ;
the man who holds it walks by its fide, and direds it bj
this ililt. As no oxen are ufed here, it is drawn by four
fmall borfes ; the driver, if he can be fo called, goes before
the horfes, ^nd pulls them on by the halter. In fome pla-
ces the ground is turned up by two inftruments well known
in the Highlands, called crooked and even fpades; in moft
of thefe parts, the ground is fo rugged, and full of ftooes,
that the plough cannot go through it. There are no carts
ufed in the pariih, except by the minider. The manures
are cow-dung, and tangle or fea-ware ; there is another
kind univerfally ufed here, perhaps not known elfewherc;
their houfcs are thatched with ftubble and heather ropes,
(ropes made of heath), their roofs are fo low and flat, and
they burn fuch quantities of peat, their only fuel, that the
ftubble is abundantly covered over with foot ; in the lat-
ter end of May, when the barley brard (blade) appcarj,
they take this footy ftubble, and ftrew it thinly upon it,
which fometimes produces- 9k tolerable crop, but muft
fcourge the ground. The only crops reared here are black
oat^, bear, and potatoes, fown in April and May, and res^jcd
In September and Oaober. The returns are in general
poor, owing to the poverty of the foil, and the cold and
boiftcrous gales from die. northern ocean, to which the lands
arc niuch expofed. The pariOi abounds in horfes, black-
cattle, and Ihecp, perhaps too many for the pafture- There
is no faying, with minute exaftncfe, what the number of
each may be. Horfes, according to a furvey lately made,
were calculated at I050; black-cattle, 2670-; Ihcep, 339»-
a The
c^Bt^rvas. 267
The horfes and cow9 are of a very fmall fixe, partlj owing,
to the pafturc, but more fo to the little attention paid to.
the proper fele£lipn of bulls and ftallionSi by which thej
are yeady decraaiiAgy and moft continue fo to do till this
cviL b^ xemediedi
All tiie- ifaeep^ except a few of the blac^.faced kind in-
trounced, by the minifter, are xemarkably fmall. They-
roam at krge through the moor, without any herdGnan to
attend thtra. Though v^ry wild^ they are in general, how-
ever, £0 far.ume, that (hey Cin be driven iatp fnnll inclo-
fiicesy where the wool i9;puUed off, a terbafon».cuftoin,
wbicb.cerUinly muft be d^iirinaieiital to the aoima} and iu
WQoJi.and io4eed proves fatal', when the weather happens
to be fevere in^Qiediately after ih^s pliu:king.-— The horfes^
thoogh finaaU, ar^rwiarkably bardy^aud iii<tcled*)^The.beef
an4 Q&utton fwee( and ^iv^ll Savoured**— Hok^es, upon an
a^ve^g^, fell a^ L. 2, i^aa; ^. cows aijd. i^ot^ mX^ %^ 5.9. 4 ;and
(beep « 3 s, ei|chf ^ i ^
Pcfuiatiou^^Jx is iJQp^fiAb}^ 10 lay what nufhbet of fouls
aught bt^ye be^n in the pari^ij a§ there never, were any regit
fterskept. Popu^ationj ^oweyer^^ is aUowe4 to be on the in«
preafe,. chiefly owing to fhe farms being much fmaller than
in former times. There are in the parifh, 439 families,
aoo6 fouls, 914 n(iale$, aopa females: Souls under 6 yeara
oldi 334 ; ditto betwixt 6 and 14 years, 407 i ditto betwixt
14 and 60 years,. 1067.1 and above 60, 198. In 1755, the
population, by Dr Web&^r's lid. was X995» There are 14
weavers) 5 tailors, 7 blackfmiths, 340 fifhers, and i miller.
There is not one man by profei&on a flioemaker ; the moft
of the inhabitants fupply themCelves with ihoes or brogues;
nor, indeed, do aoy of the above tradefmen depend wholly
iipon their occupations, all of th^m having fmall farms.
There
268 StatiJHcal Account
There are two women liring in the ]Murifli| one of wboqi
fays tba( fl»e is xoo years old, and the other 102.
Churchy ScioolSf 4md Stipernds^-^^^th^ Crown is Patron \
Colonel Francis Humberflone Mackenzie of Seaforth Ible
heritor. All the inhabitants are of (be ^(Ubliibed Church
of Scotland. There zik two places of worlbip in the pa*
viih. The church clofe by the manfe is a perfed niin, and
is to be rebuilt firft fummer. The one in the diftrifi of
Nefst about za computed miles from the manfe, an old
Fopiih churchy called St Peter's, was enlarged and rebuilt
Jaft year i it is thatched with heath. The rent of the pa-
riib is about L. 900 Sterling, befides kelp, which was never
attempted here till within a few years back. It is thought
the Ihores will produce 60 tons once in three yeaia.-^Tfao
ftipend, till this year, was only xoco merks Scots, and
L. 5 Sterling for a glebe, to which Colonel Mackenzie
added L. 20 Sterling. The prefent incumbent, Mr Do*
paid Macdonald, was fettled in 1790. His predeceffors
were, Meflrs Alexander Mackay, and Murdoch and Do-
paid Morrifons. The manfe is fmall ; was boilt about aS
years ago, and repaired lafi year at a confiderable cxpence ;
the kitchen, which is the only office-houfe, was repaired
and flated at the fame time.
Thtre has not been a parochial fchool here for many
years back ; but Colonel Mackenzie, who is vtry defirous
to have fchools ere&ed, contracted with an undertaker two
years ago, to build a fchool-houfe near the manfe, but ow-
ing to various circumftapces, it has not as yet been accom-
pliftied. There has been a charity-fchool eftabliibed in
the diilrijt of Nefs by the Honourable Society for many
years back ; it is to be lamented, that the people in gene-
ral have as yet fo little tafte for education* There are only
about 20 fcholars who attend j though, from the compafi-
* ' ndi
of Barvas^ 369
pe& of the difirid, triple that number might attend daily
from their parents houfes. The fchoolmafier, however,
b of great fervice in foch a remote comer, bj bis diligence
in catechifing and reading to the people on every Lord's
day, when the minifter is not there.
Mrs Mackenzieof Seaforth, whofe zeal for the good of
her people is confpicuous upon all occafions, has ereded
two fpinning-fchoob, with a falary of L. 6 Sterling to each
of the miftreiles« To aid her in this laudable undertaking,
the Honourable Society refolved to pay one-half of laid
falary. The girls aric tzught gratis^ have xo d. for every
fpindle they fpin, and to encourage them, they have their
wheels at a low rate *, many of the poorefi have them gra^
tis. She allows 1 lb. of coarfe lint for themfelves to begin
with \ befides, as a fpur to induftry and emulation, adnual
competitions are held, when premiums are given to the
beft fpinners.
Poor.-»There are 80 upon the poor-roll, who are chief-
ly fopported by the charity of the inhabitants, by begging
from houfe to houfe ; any fupport they get from the kirk-
feffioa is by no means adequate to their maintenance.
There is about L. 4 annually diftributed amongft them,
(arifing from the weekly colleftions and molds), together
with five guineas of a yearly donation from Mrs Macken«
zie of Seafortfa, whofe benevolence and charity have been
of nniverlal good throughout this whole ifland. She has,
befides, upon her lid, two very great'objeAs in this pariih,
to each of whom (he allows three bolls of meal annually.
There is another mode here for fupporting the poor, which
fliewa the charitable difpofition of the inhabitants \ being in
general fcarce of money for the weekly colle&ions, tliey,
f very fpriog, coUed a certain quantity of grain or feed,
which
270 Stati/Hcal Account
vAnth b regularly divided by the kirk^feflbw aOUMfgft tkft
objeflB upon their rolL
t4nei2¥i^HS* — Several ruins of Popiih chapels or churches
are to be fs:en in the parifli \ round mofi of them are bury tog-
grottods> which are to this day ufed for t^t p^rpole. A few
of them can only be traced by the fqi^iidation-ftoiics \ the
walls of others are. pretty entire. The lar^il and moH
entire is tha( at ^px'^pie to Neis, dedi^f ted to St Mulvay ^
it fee ms to haye been ^e; principal one, and undoubtedly
ufed us a plaise of wprfliip. It is 59 feet :loog» 94 brood,
and I ^ feet in the fi^S wallf ^ the people around it, paij it
as ytt a great deal of fivperftitious veneration^ a|id indeed
fome of them retajq fl^U a^w of tl^e Popiib fupefftitions.
A. little to Ibe north pf it ftood St Ronan's, and clofe hy it,
to the fouthy ftood a!.hou£e, built by one of the Macleods,
once the proprietors of this ifland ; there is ftill a piece of
wall (landing, called by them Macleod's Gate. The fiones
are iboftly ciuxied away by the tenants for building their
bonfes. Some bundled yards to the fqutb of tha( |s ^, inaaU
mount, which evidently bears the mark of having 01^ a
building upon it, called Catftel Oigrtf (i. e^J Olaus his
CaiUe. The names of the. reft, which are but fmall in
comparifon to St Mulvay's, are, St Peter's ^n Habo|^ St
Thomas's in Swainboft, St Clement's in Nortl^ DcU> Holy
Crofa at South Galfoo, St Bridget in Boirve, St Peter's io
l^wer Strather, St Mary's in Upper Barvas, and St John
the Bapiift's in Bragir. Betwixt B^rye and GaUbn, upon
an eminence at a fmall diftance from the fea, may be feen
the mips of a pretty large dpn, or Danifli fort, of a circular
form, witli paflages and fmall apartments in the walls ; the
oniyi entry. was from the top. Tradition fays, that there
was a fubterraneous communication to it from the fea, of
which no veftige can now be traced. There is another of
the
of Barvas. ' 371
the lame kind in a lake at Bragir, called Loch Duin, but
not fb large. Three more are to be feen in three {mall
lakes behind Strather and Borve, at a confiderable diftance
from the fea, i6ach of them having a catifeway leading to
theniy which are vifible in dr j weather. Betwixt Barvas
and Strather, in the middle of a deep ftiofiy where no other
ftones are to be feen, and at a confidihiable diftance from
the fea, there is a verj large ftone flanding npright, called
Ctaeh i DruJbiU famons for nothing but its fize, being 18
feet above ground, and 14 feet in circumference, having no
figures upon it, as erroneoufi j related. The vulgar tradi-
tion concerning it, is too abfurd and fnperftitions to deferv^
anj notrce. The ifland of Rona, fituate in the northerfa
ocean, about x6 leagues difiant from Eorapie Point, or the
butt of the Lewb, (which is reckoned the furthefl to the
north-weft of anjr in Europe), belongs to this parifli. It is
reckoned a mile in length, and half a mile in breadth ;
there is a temple in it dedicated to St Ronan. It is rented
by one of the Nefs tackfmen at L. 4 Sterling ptr annum^
who regularly, every feafon, fends a large open boat, and
brings from it fome corn, butter, cheefe, a few iheep, and
fometimes a cot)^, befides fome wildfowl, and feathers.
There were once five families refiding upon it, but now
only one, who are employed by the tackfman as fervants.
The rock Snliflcer lies 4 leagues to the eaft of Rona \ it
is a quarter of a mile in circumference, and abounds with a
great variety of fea-fowL The boat which goes to Rona,
generally touches there for fowls and feathers. There is
in Nels a moft venturous fet of people, who for a few years
back, at the hazard of their lives, went there in an open
fix-oared boat, without even the aid of a compals. There
is no place in it where they c.in draw up their boat ; fome
of them continue in it, taking flieltcr under the lec-fide of
the rock, whilft the reft are bufy m taking the birds, who
arc
a*fi Stati/lical Account
are fo tame, that tliej knock them down with fticksi theif
feathers fell at Stornowaj, at from 9 to xo t. per ftone.
MifcJlttwous Oifirvaiions^-^Thert are neither moles^
frogSy foxes, or weafels, in the pariih, nor any hares, till of
late a few made their appearance from a breed introduced
into the ifland hj Seaforth. It abounds with pidgeob, plo-
ver, (hipe, and a vaft variety of wild-geefe and ducks. The
fwan, woodcock and green plover, appear in their feafos.
The oQail abounds with a variety of tea*fowls^ Eagles,
corbies and crows, are numerous, and often prove defiruo-
tive to the young lambs. The greateft difadvantage this
pariih lies under, is, the want of roads and bridges. From
this fide of the ifland to the village of S^ornoway is rec-
koned from ] a to 18 miles of a broken fwampy moor,
without fo much as the form of a road acrols this long and
fatiguing fpace | the poor people are under the necei&ty of
carrying every article almoll, to and from Stornoway , upoa
their backs. Colonel Mackenzie, who is very eager to re-
medy this evil, has, for a few years back, begun a road to
open a communication betwixt both fides of the iiland, and
carried it forward about five miles at a great expence. la
place of the fUtute-labour, every man, from 16 to 60 years
of age, pays is. 6 d. There is only one annual hir fi>r
felling cattle held in this whole ifland, confeqnently the
fellers are under the neceffity of difpofing of them at that
time, "having no chance of feeing any other buyer during
that feafon, except for fucb fat cattle as are purchafed By
the Stornoway merchants. Until there be a cod^fbrtable
communication opened betwixt both fides of the ifland ^
until the breed of cattle of every kind be improved, and
ibme mode contrived for a better market lor them ; this
parifli muft labour under great difadvantages. On the
other band, it is no fmall advantage, in fucb a high and cold
latitude.
f^ Baroas. 273
Udhide, to have fuch abundance of very fine peats clofe bj
their hoofes in general. The fiih of different kinds are moil
beneficial, efpeciallj that of the d(^-fiih| the oil of which
brings a confiderable fum of money, and the fi(h, \^'l.en
proper] J curedi has, by long experience, been found to be
Vfholefome food.
The fnow feldom lies deep or long; a circumflance
highly favourable to Iheep and black-cattle. As the lands
were never meafured, it is impofiible to fay with any cer-
tainty what the number of acres may be, but the extent of
the cultivated land bears no proportion to die uncultivated.
The common language of the pari(h is Gaelic. The names
of places are derived from the Norwegian language, and by
thofe who underfiand it, are allowed to be very exprelRve
•f their fitnation.
Vol. XIX. Mm N U M-
274 Statijlical Accouni
NUMBER VIII.
PARISH OF LOCHS,
(County or Ross, Synod or Glbmelg, Island and
P&E8BYT&&Y or LSWIS).
By the Rev. Mr Alexander Simson.
Namit Situation^ He.
THIS parifh derives its name from the oumerons har-
bours which are in it, and which are always in this
countrj called Lochs. The/ are fo well fecured from the
fea, that many of them are very well adapted for places of
anchorage to vefiels of confiderable burden, and the whole
of them for fmall veflels, and are excellent landing-places
for open boats. The parifh may alio derive its name in
part from the innumerable bodies (lochs) of frelh water,
fituated in the moor, lall of which abound witli Cmall
trout of excellent quality. It is fituated in the county of
Rols, within the bounds of the prefbytery of Lewis, and
2 fynod
ofLocbu 275
fynod of Glendg. The extent of the pariih in length is
aboat 18 computed miles, not including the feveral ferries
acrofi the forelaid harbours which intervene in that firatgbt
line. The extent of the fea-coaft, following the ihore in all
its direftionsy is 90 computed miles. In a country fo much
interfeded by numerous arms of the fea, the breadth muft
be various, but at an average it holds at about 8 or 9 miles.
It is bounded on the fouth by Loch Seafbrth, which fepa*
rates it from the pariih of Harris \ on the weft, by the pa-
rifb of Uig } on the north, by the pariih of Stomoway ; and
on the eaft, by the channel, which feparates this ifland from
the continent of Rofii. Along the coaft it has a bold and
rocky appearance -, farther back, there is a great extent of
fofit flat moor. There is no foil but what the indefatigable
indoftry of the inhabitants has forced into fome culdvacion,
near the creeks of the fea, with the aid of fea-weed forma*
nure. The air is very moift, but not unhealthy,
2)^M»/^#.«— The rofe or erylipelas, colds, and rheumai-
tifms, are the mod common diftempers prevalent in tliia
country -, fometimes very infedious and epidemical fevers
rage here, which terminate the lives of a great many of the
inhabitants.
Ft^eries^'^Cod and ling conditute the principal fifliing
on the coaft, of which kinds of fiOi there are caught annually
at an average, 34 tons. The ling, when cured, fells at
L. 15, 10 s. per ton, and the cod at L. xo v it is fold to the
merchants of Stomoway, who export it to the bed market
they can find ; both the cod and ling are in the greateft
perfedion from February to May. All the other kinds of
fifhcs, which are commonly met with on the coaft of the
iflcs, and which are fit for immediate family ufe, are caught
here
2j6 Stati/lical Account
here in great abundance. Between 45 and 50 tons of kelp
are manufadured annually. The flood-tide iovariablj rana
from fouth to north, both on the fliore and at fea, and of
courfe, the ebbtide in the^ cootrarj diredtoo. Loch Sea-
forth, Lochihell, and Locherifort» are the principal harbours.
Arrofs the entry of each of the two latter, there is an iflaod,
\v}iich aiakes them fecore retreats for veflels in all kinds of
weather. In the channel between Lewis and Skj, a third
of the waj nearer the former than the lattert are three
iflands, named Sbaint or Holy Iflands* well known to nia«
riners ; one of them, in particular, leems to have been de-
dicated to the Virgin Mary \ it is named Moatr, or Mary's
Ifland; in it there are the remains of a Popiih chapeL
Black-cattle are paftured on them all, and they are fiunoos
for fattening flieep* but particularly fome finall rocks in
their neighbourhood, which have grais on their tops. There
is one family refiding on the largeft of the iflands, tar the
purpofe of attending the cattle. The head of this family
has been fo unfortunate as to lofe, at dil&rent timea, hif
wife, a fon, and a daijghter, by £ming down great preci-
pices ; the mother and fon met with this'catafiropbe in fol-
lowing fheep, and the daughter, by gpipg in qucft of wild-
fowl eggs,— Keback-head, and the point of Rainii(li« are
the two principal headlands on thecoafL Moftoftheparifii
is covered with hea^b*
Popvlation^'^Tht whole amount of thp population in
thib pai iih is 1 769 perfops, of which number, 845 ars males,
and 923 are females. Population in 1755, byDrWeb-
Iter's lilt, appears to have been ia67. Inftances of kmge*
yity occur often ; a woman died a few days ago aged 104.
1 he nuniber of families is 366. Mod of the inhabitEnts
^re fifliers and nctmakers. There are 38 kelp-makers,
f 6 lyeavers of coarfc cloth, a boat-carpenters, 3 tailorst an^
ofLocbs. 277
m blackfmitha, in the parifli. Everj individnal here as of
the £fiftbliflied Church. . ,
Hu/basidry. — The number of black-catde, not tndoding
the calves, is 3488 ; the number of fheep, 4000 ; the nnm^
ber of horfesy 348. The different kinds of cattle are of a
ioiall breed, which adapts them well to the rough ground
on whidi they pafiure. * There is very little com raifed in
this parifli. Their {maU crops are fown in the months of
April and May, and reaped in September and Odober*
The inhabitants rely principally on filh f or their fubfift-
cnce*
XoisifaM^/^— The Gaelic language is their mother tongue \
maxkj of the names of places are derived from the Daniik
and Norwegian languages.
itmf.-— The land-rent of the pariih is L. zoao, 5 s.
Eecl^JliciJ Staii of the Pari/b.— The value of the mi*
nifter's livbg, including the glebe, is L. 80. The King is
patron. Alexander Simfon is now minifter of the pariib»
and was fettled there three ytars ago. His immediate pre«
deceffor was John Frazer } before whom were James Wil«
ton, Alexander Mackay, and Colin Mackenzie, who was
the firft minifter of the parifli. The prefent incumbent is
married, and has 3 boys and a girl. A new manfe, two
churches, and a parochial fchoolhoufe were built laft year,
and offices for the manfe are to be built this year ; there
was a Society fcboolboufe built three years ago. Colonel
Francis Humberfion Mackenzie of Seaforth is fole heritor
pf the pariih.
Po9rm
378 Statifikal Account
' ' JFVoTw— There ave about 58 poor people who receive die
fmall coUedions made at the chordi-doory together inritii
five guineas, as a doaation from Mrs Mackenzie of Seafbrtli
jeakljf and all the money arifing from fines infltfied on de*
linqoefttai.
Mi/ciUamfut Oi/ervaiioMS,^^Thc fhel ufed here is peat.
There is no plough in the partfli ; the little ground that is
tilled, is by the crooked and ftraight fpades. There are 70
fiihing4>oat8 belonging to the pariffli. The people from
dieir jouth are accufiomed to a fea-faring life ^ they are of
humane difpofitions, and ihew great hofpitality to firangeis.
There is no doubt that the condition of the inhabitants of
this poor parifli might be greatly meliorated by the itttro-
dnftion of mannfaftures^ In this particular, Mrs Colonel
Mackenzie of Seaforth has already made fome confidenihle
advances, by direding the induftry of the female inhabitants
to the ufeful and rational occupation of fpinning flax. Se-
veral merchants at Aberdeen fend a great quantity of flaic
annually to a truftee at Stomoway, who diftributes it to be
fpun, not only to this, but in all the pariflies of Lewis. In
this parifli there are 'two fpinning fcbools, the midrefles of
each of them are paid jointly by Mrs Mackenzie of Sea-
forth, and the Society for Propagating Chriftian Knowledge.
The forementioned truftee has a yearly falary paid him by
Mrs Mackenzie and the faid Society. To encourage the
young women to acquire the perfed knowledge of fpinning
there is an annusl competition at ^ach of the fchools, and
premiums given by Mrs Mackenzie to the beft performers,
for the purpofe of exciting a laudable emulation. The
premiums are held oiit to all the taught fpinfters in the
ifland *.
» The encouragement thus given to promote the induftry, the iinprore-
ment,^ and confeqoently the real happinefs of fo many of our fellowciei-
turca*
* <it Locbs. 1(79
tores, wlio, from local circnmfiAnces, ue fecludcd from die more cuU
tiTtttcd part of fociety, unquestionably zcfle^s a high degree of honour on
the worthy perfOn by whom it is fo generoufly beftowed, and (hall in-
fallibly prove a fource of unfpeakable confolation. The memory of the
haughty, and, of courfe, the cruel-hearted daughters of diffipadon, IhaU
be utterly forgotten, or if mentioned, fliall be mentjpned with abhorrence :
whilft that of the generous, whofe kind efibrtf are well directed for the
pcnnanent good of mankind, Ihall be blefled on the earth for many foe-
ceeding ages.
NUM.
oto Statiftical Accouia
NUMBER IZ.
PARISH OF UIG,
(COUVTT OF R0S8» SyNOD OF GlBHXLO^ PuSBTTtfT OF
Lkwxs).
Bj thi Riv. Mr Hugh Mokro.
If ami ami SituaiuM.
UIGt in the eommon acceptation of the word, figntfieSf
in many parts of the Highlands, a folitary placet nmcb
ftqueftered from the public eye } which feems to apply with
particular propriety to the local fituation of this parifh, it
bieing fcparated from the pariih of Stomoway and Lochs,
which lie on the eaft and fouth-eaft coaftof the ifland, by an
cxtenfive flat and foft moor, no le(s than la computed miles
an length ; on the fouth-weft it is bounded by the moon*
tains of Harris ; on the weft, by the Atlantic Ocean j and
on the north, by a part of the pariih of Lochs, which in
that place runs acrofs the country from eaft to welt. It is
fituated in the county of Rofs, illand and prelbytery of
Lewxsi
«nd f jnod of Glenelg. The length of the parifh is ten com-
-pmted mil^, not induding the wide entry of Loch Roag,
which rans into the heart of the parifh from the weft ward ;
its breadth is nine miles. The interior part of it is hilly^
much more fo than any of the other parilhes in the ifland,
and along the fliore it is almoft flat. In many of the farms
along the fea-coail the foil is ikndy ; fartlter back, it is of
a thm light kind, mixed with a little clay, and a great
part of it feems to be the laft ftratum of mofe which has
been cut away for fuel, and which pit>duce8 forced crops^
with the affiftance of fea-weedfor manure.-— The air is moift^
and healdiy to the inhabitants. The moft prevailing diftem-
pers are rhenmatilm, eryfipilas, cholics, andkpilepfy among
infants from the fifth to the eighth day alter dieir birth ;
if they are not affbSed with the difcafe befere die eighth
day, they are not afterwards fubjed to it. The furgeon in
this country declares, that the laft-mentioned diflemper
proved fatal in every cafe which came within the compre-
henfion of his knowledge, two only excepted, in which
the furgeon attended. One of the children which efcaped,
fuffered fb much from the violent exertions of the mufcles,
during the continuance of the fits, that its arms and legs
are diftorted, and the whole frame is in a debilitated Hate,
and likely to continue fo. It is worthy of remark, that
the infjBints of fuck parents as come to this ifland from the
neighbourmg continent or illands, or from anj part of Bri-
tain, are not troubled with this affli&ion, until fuch parents
refide for many years in this country ; and indeed few of
them are at all troubled with it. - This difiemper prevails
over all the ifland. — ^This parifli abounds with fmall lakes
aod rivulets ; trouts are to be found in all the lakes, but
bmewhat inferior in tafle and flavour to thofe on the' main-
land. There are four rivulets in which fsdmon are caught
in fmall quantities, and ufcd by the inhabitants. — The
Vol. XIX. Na length
^1 StatifiictU Acctmnt
iMgthordieeMft, fcUowiag die (^<mioidliU'
around Loch Kong, is 40 confMel miks; ibe IWbb is
jTockj. Oogfiiht cod, lisg» aad cokfiOi axo tlwfcnt
here. Gteat qnancitics of herriiigf, of osioooumbIj large
fize, have begun to be cfioght in ihis loch wkhin ihcfie ^pw
years, llie henriqgs moke their appeanaoe stboot the aoth
of December, and remnin to Che middle of Jemnry \ tlus
]aft year, (i794)» upwards of 90 fiul came^firom iHftniiit
pavls of the kingdooi ; thej both fifiied, and faoqgha the
lierring frdh &om the countrj^^eople, at the great priee of
from 9 8. to xa s. f$r €rmu^ (which is dK full of a banel
of green ftih, as taken out of the net). The onoonuDDfla
gales of wi^d whidi pvevailed dus winter, bacaaie'fittl to
fome of die fifliers, and aendered 'their Ibocefr npao the
whde mudi left than it was any year finoe die fiflnag laft
commenced. Forty years back, and long faefiore, tbere
was an immenfe herriog^filhing in Loch Roag. Sweden
was then the only mariiet for the fifli, aad the abandamy
was fuch, that the country-people fold diem £»r I s. fer
fore£ud crane. The cod b very plenti&d in this loch da*
ring the herring-fifliing, and when the herrings emigrafte,
they foon diiappear. The cods are fold &eih by die coon-
try. people at a d.'each. Such <rf the inhabitanta as indiae
to take the trouble of curing them, can be fapplicd with
jalt for the purpofe from two ftorehoafes erefied there by
Mr Macken^ of Seafordi, in which &k is kept fior the
benefit of the people. Mufdes are found fo plentifiil diat
lime is made of their ihells. Oyfters, dams, and coc-
kles, are foimd here. There are ai>out 140 tons of kelp
annually made at JiOch Roag, which is fuperior in quafity
to any other kelp in the Hi^ands of Scotland ; this is fbf-
ficiently evinced by its felling for at leaft a giunea/«r ton
snore than any other kelp«-— Gallan-head is oae of the
chief promoutorics; i| lies at the footh-weft eatry to Lodi
Rottg. The Flaftnan Ides lie in a north- weft diseffion from
GaBait^heftd, about 12 or 13 miks in the ocean v they are
not inhabited^ and are famous for fattening iheep, each o£
which have always at a time two lambs every fealbn. The
iflands are feven in number, and are the fame which Bu^
channan calls Infulce Sacra, becaufe diey feem to have been
the refidence of ecdefiyftics in time of the druids ; fome
of their temples, built without any mortar, are 0iU extant.
Sheep brought from thofe ifles do not live for any time on
the continent of Lewis. The people of the farms to. which
the ifles ate connefied, go there once a-year to fleece their
iheep, and to kill fea-fowb, both for food, and on account
of their feathers. In the iflands there is to be found, in the
fummer feafon, a migratory bird, called by Martin coU^
by others edder duck^ famous for its elaflic down, which it
plucks off its own bread, and with which it lines the neft.— ^^
Loch Roag, being the only one worthy of particular notice^
is two leagues acrois at the entry, and runs up in a fouth*
eaft diredion about 12 miles through the ifland. This
loch b covered with iflands, feveral of them inhabited, and
one of them is about eight miles long; its name is Large
Bemera. The whole of this ctu-ious loch abounds with
dsfe places of anchorage, fufiicient to hold the whole firi-*
tilh navy, naj, I may fay the navj of Europe. The
whole parifli b covered with heath, except the inhabited
grounds at the £e4-fide.
Population^ lie* oftbt Parijb ofUigf Auguji 1792.
Families, « . 387
Souls, * * 1898
Malesi - • 898
Females, - > icxoo
Soub under 6 years old| - 314.
Ditto under 14 ditto, • 542
Soub
iflif Stati/Hcaljtcctnmt
Souls between 14 and 60, - 99^
Above 60, - - S5a
In X755» the populatioQ^ aceordbg to Dr Webfter, wa»
131a.
There are in the pan£hyNetnnkeiSt
a75
KelpmajjLen,
a99
Weavers,
%6
Wrights,.
9
Tailon,
7
SladdJaniths,
S
Calves rearing,
641
Milch-cows,
914
Cattle,
2007
Sheep,
5044
GoatSy
304
Horres,
681
Filhing-boats,
73
There are at prefent more inltances of longevity here
(as is always the cafe), than in any other. parilh in the
ifland; feverab near 90, and fome above that age^are at pre-
fent alive. They marry very young, and barrenneis is
fcarcely known.-~AU the people dwell in little farm-villa-
ges, and they filh in the fummer-feafon^ ^e women do not
fiih ; but almofl at all times, when there is occaiion to go
to fea, they never decline that lervice, and row powerfully.
When they go to the hills with their cattle, all defcriptions
of fex and age angle on the frefli-water lakes. All the
woollen and linen cloth ufed for common purpofes is fpun
' and wove in the parifli. There is only one furgeon in the
whole ifland. All the inhabitants are of the Eftabliihed
Ghurdk In the parifli are four or five boat-carpenters,
sad
ofuig. 285
feveral perfons who make broags of leather tanned bj
the inhabitants with tormentil-root. — ^There are no in-
fiances known of filicide. — ^Many of the people in the p»-
rifli are employed in manu&fturing kelp, and many of
them go for the fame purpofe to Harris and Uift.— There
sure no trees to be feeo, nor any kind of braihwood.
Agricmbun* — The pariOi never fupplies itfelf wkh fa£-
fidcncy of provifion. The people (^ve lately acquired a
fnperior knowledge and pradtice of the culture of potatoes *
to what they formerly had, and in proportion to the in«
creafe of this ufefiil |pot, their buying of prorifion dimi-
niihes, and bears a (mall pr^ortion to their outlays in for-
mer years. About 15 years ago, the prefent minifter was
obliged to give over the cultivation of potatoes, Except a
little £9r bis own private domeftic iife, becanfe prejudices
hindered the people from eadng them ; but his per&ve-
ranee in ufing them in his own family at laft convinced the
people of their error, and of the vaft utility of that article.
A finall quantity of fiax and hemp is fown in different
parts of the parilh, owing to the particular attention of Mrs
Mackenzie of Seaforth, who makes exertions to direft the
indufiry of the females of this and the other pariihes of the
ifland to fuitable objeds, and has ereded, at a confiderable
expence, threes fpinning-fchools in this pari(b» Here thej
fow fmall or black oats (the only kinds nfed) in the months
of March and April ; they reap ig September and OAo-
fcer ; they fow here a little earlier than in any other part of
the country, in order to be employed in mannfaduring
kelp as foon as poilible. Barley b fown in May, and reap-
ed in the latter end of Auguft, and fome of it in Septem-
ber. The oats are all cut with the fickle, but the barley
is plucked ; the reafon for their plucking the latter is, that
the root of it makes good thatch for their hou&s ^ and al-
tboug|i
§M$ StaHJlkat Account
liioagh tliej ^odc it k niny weather, when dwgr ooMt
cany on aoj other harveft^work, it sever heata, and i»eafif
dried with the firft &ir weather. Kail or cabh^ of any
kind \a not ufed here % fince their prejudice agaioft potatoct
has heen overcome, the j chnfe to beftow their mamve oa
the latter rather than the former. The mibifter ia sa a &•
milar predicament. That part of the parifli which lies far-
theft oat to the oeean id verj defiitate of fiea^wato ; Ae is*
terior parts tire abundantlj fopplied with cot ware fior amh
ilttre*
Ltu^gmage.i'^Th^ Gaelic is the only haguage fpokett^ »-
oept by a few tackfmen } but it is to be hoped, that die
Engliih langniige, and, of conrie, the knowledge of books,
ihall become more prevalent, as two fchook were btelj
eroded in the pariflu— >The names of places are derived
from the Norwegian or Icekndic tongues, fnch as Kenvicki
Kirkiboft, &c.
durcb^f^Th^ value of the minifter*s living, indDdiflg
the glebe, and after a late and voluntary augmentadoa of
ftipend given by the proprietor, is L. 8o« The King is
patron. Hugh Munro is miniftcr ; be is the third fince die
erefiion of the pari£b. Macleod and Normand Morifoa
were his predeccfibrs. The prefent incumbent has beea
fixteen years fettled } he is a widower, and has three daa^^
ters and one fon. The manfa was built about fooiteca
years ago. Two kirks were built two years ago» Ses^
forth is lole proprietor.
Poor.— There are 50 poor people who aik alma among
the parifliioners. Mrs Mackenzie of Seaferth gives Us
annually to meliorate their condition, and the mulfis of de^
3 linqooflts
Jiaqiicfits are laid ODt to tlie fiuM pnrpde. All the people
«re semarked for a cbarkaUe difpoition.
Prkt ofLahmr^^K boat-cafpenter here gets i s. a-day
wmA bb viAoak; a mafioti die fBwie; a anale-iervant haa
L %firtmnmt9h with coarle iboes« and has vidnab; a fe«
jnale-fervaot firom 5 s. to lot. annoaUj, with ihoes and vie-
inalt.P*^There is not a plough in the parifti ; all the tiUage
is Qoadnded with crooked and firaight fpades* No carta
nor waggons. The foel is wholly peat.
Jirmdical TimpJe^ Vc.— *At a place caUed Galarnilb, not
Sax from Loch Roag, there is an entire draidical pbwo of
wo^hjpt of which I iubjoin a ikctcb:
/
— I
\
\
%*- Entry. —
Someoftfae fion^ are verj large^ efpeciallj that in tha
oentK of the circle i they all fiaod on end at Ibme diOance
tcQBk eaeh other, and art whoU^ in a rough natnial ftate*
ae taken froaa the iboce«
AC
aS8 Statiflkal Account
At Mdifia are the xemains of a mmiierj, called ffill ia
the language of the coontrji Teagb ma u cailicbam dom^ or^
The houfe of the old black women. At Carlawaj there is
% Danil^ forty or doitne, with a doubk wall of drjr fioDc ; it
i8» perhaps, the moft entire of any of the kbd in Scotland;
it is Tery broad at the bafe, and towards the top coatrads
in the form of a pyramid ; the height of the wall it 39
feet} the fabric is perftdly circolar.— In ancieot times
there were many battles fought in this pariih between the
Macaulays and Morifons, who had perpetual feuds*
This pariih gave birth to the father of Alderman Mac-
aolay, now living in London, whofe uncle George Mac-
aolay is ftill at Galstfnifli. The people of this pariih are
remarked for their cleanlineis and hofpitality more than
their equals in any other part of the ifland.— The number
of boats is not below a hundred.— Two or three open boats
go annually £rom this pariffli to Glafgow with <ed beef|
dry falted ifii, tallow, &c. — The people are vtxj economi-
cal| and are not fond of a military life,
MifceUamous Ohfirvatioat. — If maaufiifiures were intro-
duced here upon a great fcale, they would tend to melio-
rate the condition of the people, becaulie fiich employment
would afford bread to the increafe of population which pre-
vails here, as well as in all the pariflies of the Highlands.-*
Very near the maniie there livea a woman, who hasfoordi-
ftinft breafts or mammae. She has had feveral ftout health/
children, and fuckled each of them, and like wife one of the
minifier's children. She has nipples and milk in each of
the four breafis ; the two upper are fituated immediately
under the arm-pits, and by being diftended with milk, are
very troublefome to her for the firft two or three months
lifter her delivery. Such a lu/us nature is very uncom-
mon*^
NUM.
ofKbyme and EJjtt^ 289
NUMBER X.
PARISH OF RHTNIE AND ESSIE,
CCOUHTT •F ABkftDEBV, StVOD OpMoKAT, FusBTTSRY
OP Stkathbogie).
Frmm Commmmeaiimis hy the Rn. Mr James Milhe*
THE pariflies of Rhynie and Effie were united at a re-
mote period. The chnreb of EiBe was contiaaed as
a place of worlhip till abont 30 yean ago» when it became
rainoos; fiace that time the pari(h has been generally
known by the name of Rbyaie on^. It b fitnaled in the
county, of Aberdeen, Synod of Moray, and Prelbytery of
Strathbogie. This prefbytery was disjoined from the fy-
nod of Abcvieea, and annexed to that of Moray in 1700 :
A disjnnAion the more remarkable, that feveral of the pa-
riflies were in the connty of Aberdeen, idid one of them,
Morxlicb, was originally the (eat of the biihoprick, which
was afterwards temoved to Old Aberdeen.
Vou XIX# O o Boundaries.
290 Statyilcul JccnM
Boundaries, — The pariih of Rhynte is bounded by the
pariihes of Cairniei C^brach, Auchbdore, and Gartlj.
Exttttt and Contents^ (/r.-— The figure of the pariih is
nearly fquare^ it being 5 Englifh miles long, and nearly ns
broad, it contains 8 of the 48 davochs or davdcht of the
lordihip of Strathbogie. A davacb contains 3a oxen-
g^es * of 13 acres each, or 416 acres of arable land. At
thisi rate, the whole lordihip of Strathbogie anciently wa«
e&imated at 19,968 acres, or, in round numbers, 20,000
acres of arable land. About one-third of this is infield or
croft-land, and two-thirds outfield*
Lordjbip 0/ Strathhogii. — As this lordihip was one of
the five divifions of the county of Aberdeen, ancicntlj
called Lordlbips or Thanages, as it included the whole ori*
ginal eftate which King Robert Bruce gave to the noble
^mily of Gordon, and as it has been overlooked bj Dr
Anderfon in his Survey of the County of Aberdeen, the
writer of this account tilings himfelf bound to tal^e notice
pf it. The wliole lordihip of Strathbogie comprehends
120 fquare miles, including both the arable and unculti*
vated lands. It lies on bdth fides of tiie river Bogie«
which empties it&lf into the Dteveron, near IKintly. In
1424, when the proprietor of it was one of the hofta^ for
the ranfom of Kinf* James I. his rt*nt41 was Rated to be
L. 400 Scotch diohcy of that age, ^iXt thebdat^ of the
High
« JB7 ta of MnruQt, March tz. isfs, sn wei^tte, sf «s|iR^ amiite
13 acres, 4 qxcngate a twcnty-lhilKn^ land, 8 oxa^gite a tanttflnnhit
land. Some of the oxengates in the lordftiip of Strmthbfigie ane not
6 acres; others above 19 'acrw.-~'nic hills are icfs cultivated, and the low
grounds formerly in wood-, -are now rntore* iti enltnre. '^tt his probably
pccafione4 the inequalitf . Theicfpre, in the abort aecoatt, iStif l^al met-
fures of a dayocb and ox|^tte are preferred to iadeiimt^ xoeafores.
i>/ Rby^e and Ejfftei stgi
ttigh Cotidftble of Scotland, afterwards Efttl of Errol» And ^
of the Great M^rifchil, afterwards Earl Marifcha!; were
onlj valued at L. 8eo Scotch each.
t^9 Igriihip^^x^^ 4 ^{^ ftr^ji^ ^*. Stqithbpg^ip. . The {q\\
of the pariih is Tarious; loamj near the ri^cer Bogie f.
ftonnj and gravelly, jet very fertile, near the 'bottom of
tl^ hSJ^^i-^ inXQipp%w.gfQjlftds^5cJ^3r, iqtoth^i^a n^of-
fy foiL 'Agri^vlfipirf Ijas not^jpt p^dq gfjat gdya^ciy^,
there t^moglly^fibojUiUnjcf^ ofe tumipi.apd.^ acres o(
fown grafs, in the whole of this extenfive parifti. Yifptbe
farmers are beginning to improve their iands ; and to en-
able U^efn tQ 4oJo, there i^^ab^nd4QQ?-p(»|tfBe4oi^ m^%n«
of ^he ^lgtU)QHfii)g pwifl^Jf ' ; I ^ . : ,m::V/
Moufl^qi^* — Thpugh tbere arc ff veral Ijills^ tber? is ^T.,
one of tl^efe which deferve^ the. name of ^- mountain. It
i^ C^cd the b^l] of Nqth ; and is of a conical Ihi^pe, fpring-^
ing frpm its batfe about ^ojs feet, and atlcaft loco feet above
tbejeyel of the fea. TJi^. whole parift i?. <;}eva^ed above ;
(bat lev^l a]t lead 400 fe^t. ; ^s a proof of this elevation»
the river pady riles near (be bor|ler9 of this pariib, and
after fallii^ iptp the Uryi and aloiig with it into the Don*
runs into the fea at Aber()een, after a courfe of 30 miles
to the fouth*ea(l ; ^nd t^e rircr Bogie, which runs through
the pariih, after mixing its waters with the Deveron, and
running alfo nearly 30 miles in a north*weft dirediou, falls
into the Moray Frkb at B/M^ff* ^
Population^ Rent^ ?/r.— The number of pei^fons in this
pariih is 68x ; but, according to Dr Webfler'k lift in X755,
it amounted to 836, The number of horfes, 17a ; of black*
cattle, 882; and of flieep, 2255. — T\\i rent of the parifh
is about L. 700. The minifter's itipend is two chalders of
meal.
09% Sta^ftkal AeaniM
Voxi/Lf and L. 74 : 8 : loA* The fiAoolmaSer'* &lirf is
7t bolb of aictl, which it pud id (iaall gwitkifs bj the
tenants. The coUedioos iac the poors iodadiiig wkuX m
made at the commonioii, amount to about L.8 jearij,
which, with the intereft of L. 15 of fiinded monej, and
from L. 3 toL.4 of leat-ients, has been feond adequate to
their fopptj.
ITirieors, 5/f .— The whole parift' is now the piopeitjr of
tile Duke of Gordon, who is patron of Rhyme : But Knrt
Fife* as patron of Effie, has a vice patftmage of the united
pariihes.
* AHtiywiiin,i^^On the top of Noth are, according to Mr
Williams, Dr Anderfon, and others, -the ^mainsof a iri*
trified fort. Some, however, are of opinion, that this ia
only the mouth of an extinguiflied volcano.' The conical
ihape of the ^hill favours the idea of a votcitoo; but the
ftones and remains of a building are rather favourable to
the fuppofition of a vitrified fort.— There is a tradidon of a
battle having been fought at a remote period aboot Cbe^
middle of this pari{fa. And a large 'fibne, about five feet
diameter, on which there are fome hieroglyphical cbai^r-
ters, an*d ftanding on the moor of Rhynie, b (aid to have
bden ereded in memory of the engagement. Part of this
lione has been lately broken : But it is certainly very an-
cient.
Eminent Men.-^^As this vras'the feat of a great many of
the Gordons during tlie tkuds of the clans, this parilh gave
birth to many brav^ fellows, eminent in days of turbulence^
but now configned to oblivion. Two anecdotes relative
to the hiftory of thofc times are, however, worth prcfcrviog,
««*Huntly's fc^condfongottbe lands of Scurdarg in thi:>, and
' • afterwards
afterwirds thoie of Pitlorg in a neighboiiriiig porifii. The
male heir of the Earii fiuled in the time of James III. and
the heirefs was married to a jounger fon of the Lord
Seton, afrerwairds Earl of Wioton, Mr Seton was created
£arl of Haatly, and was a man of great abilities. When
the £ark of Douglas and Crawford had joined in a kagoe
ivhich ihook the dirone. Lord Hnntly^ who was Lieutenant
of the North, led on his troops to . the battle of Brechin.
Bat in marking out the commanders of the clans, he appoint-
ed his iecond £00, the laird of Gight, to head the Gordons*
According to the ideas of that age, the Earl himfelf was
caily a Seton, and Pitlnrg was chief xji the Gordons. The
daD, therefore, infifting that Pitlorg fhooU march at their
bead, he applied to Lord Hontly, and claimed his ri^t.
Huntly refoicd ; and Pitlurg took off his Uack bonnet ^^and
waving it, cried, ^ ji* tiat^s comt 0' mi^foUova me ;" imme^
diately the whole clan went off with him, and left Hontly
alone. The Earl, with admirable prefence of mind, came
up to them, and (aid, '* Gentlemen, you have overcome
^' me ; I yield it to yon. Pitlurg, command the Gordons.
^ And. now. Gentlemen, that you have got the better of
** me, let me fee if you will beat Lord Crawford." The
Gordons, in high agitation of fpirits, attacked the enemy ;
and Earl Huntly, after a mod glorious and important vic«
tory, got the lands of Badenoch and Lochaber, for hadding
(boldiog) the Crown on the King*s Head. From that mo-
ment the family of Huntly became the greateft in the
north ; and this contention with the clan, by making them
feel bold, was fuppofed to have contributed not a little to
the viftory at Brechin.
The
• A black bonnet, ancicntij the drefs of a Highland Chiefuin, is now
v«rn by tbe moorland farmers in Mid>tothian, to dUUnguilh them from
iSieir ferrants.
294 Statytkal Atc99tai
The other anecdote regards a fecond fon of Fidotg, -who
got the lands of Caimborrow. The daj before the battle
of Glenlivet, the Marquis of Huntlj came to Caimborrow,
and applied to his ladj, who was fuppofed to role the roaft,
for her aSiftance. She iaid| Ihe had got Ihort warnings
bnt that her old man, with his eight fona, with a jackmaa
and a footman to each, flioald attend him immediatelj.
Htintly thanked her; and after fome more conirerfation
widi her, defired Gairnborrowi who had never fpoke a word,
to ftay at home, telling him, that at his advanced jears it
was not proper to take him along, efpecialljr<as be had fe
man J of his fons. The old man heard him out, and frmg-
ging up his (honlders, laid, ** Na^ ua^ my Lord, PO Uead
*^ ibi wbetps my fell; tbtftt bite ibe beHer.'* This was rt
once the reply of a fportfman and a foldier ; and the whole
frmily went to battle with the laird at their head. Thej
defeated Argjle, and returned all fafe to Caimborrow *•
In mountainous diftrids, fenttments of liberty, and of per-
fonal bravery, are very prevalent.
jtdvantages of tbe Parijb of Rhynie,^--T\\tk are, good
foil in general, and fhclter from the high hills, which ren-
ders the greater part of the cultivated lands very warm and
fertile.
Difadvantagis*
# The writer of this tecoant has been faTOored with a curioas mun-
Script, in which the names of the father, mother, and eight font, ase aJl
mentioned : ** John Gorden of Caimbome married Seflle Cordon, daughter
*< to the Laird of Buckie, with whom he begat eight fons and three daugh-
«< ten. His fons were, ift, John, laird of Caimbome, afterwards of Edii^
*< glaffie; i. George Gorden of Sorbach ; 3. James Gorden of Fcrmaghtie;
« 4. William, who coft (bought) Caimborrow; 5. Mr Arthnr Gorden;
*« 6. Thomas Gorden of Aitloch ; 7. Robert Gorden of Gollachie ; S. P»-
<« trick Gorden of Craigfton in Sutherland. Allthefe, with their father, asd
** nine jackmen and as many Ibotmen, went to Glenlivet battle."
of Rbjfnid ani Ejfie^ 305
Di/advaniagis^'^Thete are, the diftance from market,
want of capital in many of the fiirmers, and, in fome cafes,
mill-multures ; but thefe laft are aU, by the Duke of Gror«
don, to be abolilhedi when the prefen^ leafes expire ; and
the carrying up a canal from Aberdeen to the head of the
Garioch, or from Huntly to Rhjnie, will in time render
the markets more acpeflible.
CbaraBer of the P^tf/Zr.— Thej are fober, induftrious,
peaceable, and contented with their condition. They en«
]oy not the luxuries of cities, but they have the neceflaries
and fome of the comforts of life, along with health of body
and animation of charader; and they add more to the
ftrength of the countrjr than four times their number of
difcontented and debauched manufadurers, or mobbiih po-
liticianp cap do, in any time of public or national danger*
NUM.
9)6 Siatifiicml ActmA
NUMBER XI.
PARISH OF ABOYNE AND GLENTANAR,
(Couvn AV]> SrvoD of Abirbekh, Pusbtts&t or
KlMCARBlUX).
By u Frumi !• Stati/iieal InquirUs^
Origin ofibi Name.
THE origia of the name of Abojnc is mikiiown. Tlui
of Gkntanar is evidently derived from the rivulet
Tmar, and fignifies the glen or hollow oocafiooed b j thst
rivulet.
Glcntanar and Infchmamoch, at a remote period, mtde
one parifli ; but, from the poomeis of the living, they were
disjoined, and Infchmamocb was funiL in the onitedpa^
riflies of Glenmuick, Glengom, and Tullich. Glentaaar
vras united to Abo jne ; bat after the bnilding of a centrical
church at Abojrne, the name of Glentanar was alfo fook;
and the pariih is now genendlj known bj the name of
Abojae*
L - Situatinfif
I
tf Ahoyne and Glentanar. 297
Situation, Extent^' C^c.-^Thefe pariihes are fituated ia
the county and fynod of Aberdeen, and prefbjtery of Kin*
cardine. The church is 30 Engliih miles fouth-weft
fromt Aberdeen, and nearly the fame diftance north-weft
frond Brechin. The cultivated part of thefe pariihes ex-
tends four miles from eaft to weft, and three miles from
north to fouth ; but the hills of Glentanar extend five miles
farther to the fouth-weft. The river Dee is generally the
boundary between the two parifhes, Glentanar lying on the
fouth, and Aboyne on the north of that river. Only the
lands of Balnacraig, and two infulated farms in the pari(h
of Aboyne, furrounded on all fides by the parifh of Birfe,
ate fituated on the fouth bank of the Dee. The parifh of
Lochlee, in the county of Angus, whofe church Is above 16
miles from that of Aboyne, bounds this parifh on the fouth*
weft. In the county of Aberdeen it is bounded by the pa-
rifhes of Glenmuicki TuUich, Coul, Coldftone, Logie, Kin-
cardine, and Birfe.
Ancient Divifion of the County.'^'The different hills which
nature has marked out as barriers, were the ancient boun-
daries of counties and diftrids. In modern times, the di«
vifion by rivers has gained ground. But in thefe pariihes
the county of Aberdeen crofTes the river Dee, and follows
the divifion by hills ; and in this dii{ri£t, the ideas of a High-
lander ftill favour the divifion bj Mils and mountains. The
people uniformly call all that extent of ground which is
bounded by the fenfible horizon by the name of^ country.
Mountains. — The parifh of Aboyne has no confiderable
hills. Glentanar is altogether hilly, and approaches to
mountainous. The higheft mountain of Glentanar, called
y^t Fir Mouthy is about 2500 feet above the level of the fea ;
and commands a profpedl of Aberdeen, Montrofe, and Ar-
VoL. XiX. P p broath.
fipS Statijikal Accwint
1>roath* Another of thefe mountains, Month KeaUf tf
feen firopi the coaft of Bttchan, at the diftance of above 40
miles, and ferves as a barometer to the interjacent country.
When the ^conical top of Montb Ktan is covered with a
cloudy the people in the lower pares of the count j feUom
fail to have rain within 24, or at moft 36 hours.
Rivers. — The principal river, which runs through the
whole extent of thefe pariifaesi is the Dee, which abounds
in falmon, fea-trout, and bum<4rout9 or fireih-water trout.
Thefe are only caught with the rod; and fell at from 3d. to
4 d. per Ih. according to the feafon of the year. The infe-
rior rivers are the Feuch, which runs along the lands for«
rounded by the pariih of Birfe, and fiiUs into the Dee aboat
II miles below Aboyne; the Tanar, and the AUacfajy
which runs into the Tanar, and along with it falls into the
Dee about a mile above Aboyne. All thefe rivers are re-
markably clear, but very rapid, and fwell fuddenly to a
great degree, which renders them very dangerous.
^00^.— Befides a confiderable quantity of different
kinds of wood pianted in the pari(h of Aboyne, there is s
very large fdreft of natural wood in Glentanar, the gitareil
length of which is //n, and the breadth fix Engliih miles.
Thb foreft produces Scotch fir (a fpecies of pine) of a very
good quality, which grows on the fides of the hills \ but
from the great elevation, no wood grows near the top of the
higheft mountains. There is a great demand for this woodi
which brings Lord Aboyne from L.400 to L. 500 yearly.
It was fold, till lately, at 3 d. per cubic foot } but for feme
years pad at 4 d. in lots, or prizings^ as they call it, and m
picked trees at 5 d. per cubic foot; within thefe few wecb
(in June 1796) it has been raifed to 6d. the foot« The
axe-men are particularly alert in picking out and cutting
down
0f Aboyne and Glentanar, 299
down the largeft trees. But the expeoce of getting tbem
out of the foreft is very confiderable ; and as the trees are
always fquared with the axe, the wood is not fo economi-
cal! j managed, as if there were a faw-mill, and proper ma-
chinery for carrying the large logs from the foreft. As a
proof of the finenefs of the wood, the writer of this account
numbered 130 concentric circles on a tree of zi' inches
diameter *•
A Canal propofed. — ^If a canal could be made out from
Aberdeen to Aboyne, this extenfive foreft would produce
Ij« 1500 a-year to the proprietor. Perhaps fuch a canal is
not only pradicable, but could be made at much leis ex-
pence than might be expefted, from the rapidity of the
rivers, and the great elevation of the pariih of Aboyne ;
but it (hould 9ot be attempted near the banks of^ the Dee.
The writer of this account believes, that by raifing ji canal
from Aberdeen at once to the level of Hazlebead, there*
would be almoft a ^tzA level, and at any rate, no occafion
for more than one lock for fix miles above Hazlehead. This
canal (hould probably be carried paft Cannieglirach, Hirn,
Rameir, ^aflel, and Kincardbe. A branch of it could
be cooduded paft Skene, Cluny, Mooymuik, and perhaps
pearly to Alford \ and till the increafing commerce of the
county enabled the proprietors to make out locks from
Hazlehead to Aberdeen, a diftance of two'tpiles, a carriage-
way could be ufed at a moderate expence. With a little
more public fpirit, and alfo by laying out their money
with economy, the proprietors of land in Aberdeenihire
may make out canals, where they at prefent account them
impraAicable.
* The foreft of Glentanar has been twice burned ; once, as was fuppo-
it^ by accident. The yonng wood fufiered, but the old wood received i^o
hurt, except being a little iioged.
300 Statijlical Account
impraSIcable. And from the great extent of wafte or im«
ini|. roved land, on which a very fmall quantity of lime
ivould operate, they would foon be indemnified by the rife
of their rents for the expence of any canal which wts can-
dncted on /ational principles. In the pariih of Aboyne, in
p:.! dcttlar, firom the rife of both the rent of the lands, and
of t)ie price of wood, a canal to Aberdeen would be at-
tended with moft beneficial efie&.
Soil and .^^^fVtf/ffire.— Much cannot be faid in behalf of
either of thefe. The foil of both parUhes is (andy or gra-
velly. In fome parts it is loamy, but very little of a clay
foil is found in either of thefe pariflies. In rainy ieafons
abundant crops are produced ; but it has long been obfer-
ved, that Dee-fide needs a Ihower every 34 hours, from
May to Auguft. And in very dry Teafons, from the qua-
lity and thinneis of the foil, this difirid is very deficicot
*both in corn and draw. Harvefts, of courfe, are earfier
than in moft parts of the county. When the foil of die
lands adjacent to the two principal rivers of Aberdeenfiiire,
the Dee and Don, are compared, the latter has manifefily
the advantage on the whole. Hence the old rhyme,
A foot of Don*s worth two of Dee,
Except it be for fifli and tree.
The inhabitants of this pariih, however, by felling their
wood, in more diftant parts of the county, at high prices,
contrive to live comfortably. At the £ame time, it mv&
be confefTtd, that this traffic in wood is a lois to agrtcul«
ture ; and fince the introdudion of the new hufbandry, this
diftrid, which is admirably adapted for raifing barley, tar«
nips and potatoes, receives yearly a confiderable quantity
pf lime, which goes a great way in the thin foil of this di-
ftrift.
of Aboyne and Qlentanar. 30X
fiiiCL The application of lime, however, to this foil, (hould
only be for turnips, potatoes, or bear fown out with grais.
Y^et the farmers do fometimes apply it to fuccei&ve crops
of oats ; a mode of farming which, if not fpeedily checked,
muft foon reduce the foil of Dee>fide to a caput mortuum.
Though, among the farmers in general, there is no rotation
of crops, nor approved method of hufbandry, yet the Earl
of Aboyne's perfonal farm is in very high cultivation. It
coniUb of nearly 400 acres, all inclofed by excellent Hone
fences, lined with hedge-rows, and alternately producing
white and green crops \ and it proves what can be done,
even on Dee-fide, by the proper application of foil, manure,
and good ploughing.
PopmUutofif lie. — ^The number of inhabitants is 1050.
In 1755, by Dr Webftcr's account, they were 1695. There
are foar heritors, vi%. The Earl of Aboyne, who is patron,
and generally refides in the pariih, Mr Jones of Balnacraig,
Mr Farquharfon of Finzean, and the Earl of Aberdeen.
The two laft have only a fmall farm each. The Earl of
Aboyne is proprietor of five-fixtbs of the parifh. The
whole land-rent is about L. 1200.
Burgh ^/"jSaroff;^.— Charleftown of Aboyne is a pleafant
little town, and a burgh of barony. It had once a weekly
market. It ftill has four fairs or yearly markets.
Goat'Vjbey garters. — In the parifli of Glentanar agreat
many goats are kept, and perfons afflifted with confump-
tions frequently refort to goat-whey quartets in that pariih*
Goatmilk is fold from 4 d. to 6 d. per pint. It is alfo made
fpto cbeefe; and is much efteemed by connoiiTeurs.
Antiquities,
302 Siati/iical Account
jinttquities.^^There is a hill ia the pariQi of Aboyne,
called Mullach's hilli in which there are a great nomber of
cairnsy faid to be burial-pla^es, after a gfeat battle, in which
osie Mnllach was killed.
Proprietors qffhe EJlcUt of J^oyne,'-^T\m effaite ancient*
Ij belonged to Frafer the thane of Cowie. The Earl of
Marifchal married the heirefs of that eftate, and the Mar-
qnis of Huntl^ her only daughter, IVfarifdial kept the
lands of Cowie, and Huntlj got Aboyne, which he gave to
{lis fecond fon. That young nobleman was burned to death
in the houfe of Frendraught, where he and fome of his
friends were on a yifit. Lady Frendraught was fufpeded
of having fet fire to that part of the houfe in which he
lodged ; but it is flill doubtful whether his death was wil-
fnl or accidental. The eftate and the title of the Earl of
Aboyne were given to another fon of the family of Hunt-
ly. But in a few generations, the Earls of Aboyne were
fo much reduced in their clrcumftances, that the lad Earl
fent his baggage to Paris, becaufe he faw he could not hve
in Scotland fuitably to his rank. Unwilling, however, to
abandon his country, he ordered it to be brought back, and
by attending to the management of his eftate, and the faie
of his wood, and fclefting able overfeers for bis pcrfonal
farm, he foon retrieved his affairs. And after a life, not
remarkable for its length, but for its activity, intelligence,
and fleadinefs, he left a clear eftate of L. 6000 a-year to his
eldefi fon, and another, about the third part of that value,
to his iecond fon. In an age in which diilipation is fo pre-
valent, a cbarader of this kind ought to be mentioned with
rcfpcft; and in a Statiftical Account, the following parti-
culars regarding Lord Aboyne's rural economy are worthy
of notice. — He* built eigbtein miks of a boundary to his
farm and plantations. The whole ftone fences, including
2 fubdivifioDS,
of Ahoync and Glentanar. 303
fabdivifions, muft be at lead 40 Englifii miles in length, or
above feventy tboufand yards. The fences are about five
feet in height, extremely well executed, and were all done
by days wages, or by men hired by the feafon. He dif-
approved of bnilding fences by the piece, as they are (el-
dom durable. He lived in a diflrid where the price of la-
bour was low**, bat where the people were indolent. By
giving them employment, and introducing overfeers, and a
few fisrvants from other places, where agriculture Was
known and induftry praAifed. he enabled his people to pay
the rife of their rents, and taught them how to improve
their own farms ; and by generally refiding on his efiate,
hb rent /was fpent among his tenants, and enabled him to
command an additional quantity of their labour ^ at the
fame time, he was refpe&ed in a much higher degree than
he would have been, if, in place of fpending his rents in
ufoful and productive labour, he had either been a prodigal
abroad, or a mifer who lived at home, but would not part
with his money to ornament or improve his eftate* It is
only proper to add, that the writer of this account was un-
der no obligations to him, and lives 30 miles from Aboyne,
fo that he can have no motive for ftating thefe fa£b, but a
defire to influence our young nobility, and heirs to great
eflates, to imitate thefe good qualities, and to be at once
ufeful to them/elves and to fociety. For let it be remem*
bercd, that private vices are not fo great public benefits as
private virtues are found to be. The eflute of a prodigal
is often |dcfiroyed, without employing fo much ufeful la«
hour, as is exerted in improving the eilate of a man of a£li-
vity, intelligence, and public fpirit.
•
Oai Ship.^-At would be improper to omit mentioning,
that a (hip, entirely of oak taken from Lord Aboyne'i
s woods,
304 Statifiical Account
woodSi was latelj built at Aberdeen. She is called the
Couateis of Aboyne. It were to be wilhed that more d-
couragement was given to the raifing of oak than is com-
monly given in this country.
Chara&er of tie FiopU. — They are fober and alert ; bnt
not fo patient of labour as the inhabitants of the low coon-
try. They are generally very decent, and regular in at*
tending on religious ordinances.
NUM.
^fBqyndie^ 305
NUMBER XIL
PARISH OF BOYNDIE^
(COUHTT « BaIT^F, STWOD OF AbERDEEK| PRESBTTEILT
OF Foedtge).
From Matiriats eommunieated by tie Aev. Mr Alexander
MiLNEy tie Minifter.
Namef Situatitm, He.
THE origin of the name b unknown. The parifh is
bounded bj the Murray Frith on the north and north-
-weft; by Banff on the eaft; by Ordiequhill on the fouth,
and Fordyce on the weft. It is of fmall extent, being only
five Engliih miles long, and from a mile to a mile and an
half in breadth. It contains abont 3000 acres, above one
half of which are arable, and 400 acres are planted with
'Wood of different kinds, but chiefly with Scotch fir.
Vol. XIX. Q^q Soil
3o6 Statical Account
Soil and Agricuhure.^^TYi^ foil of the parifli is
The agriculture is, on the whole, pretty well couduAcd.
Though the parifli is of fno^U extent, yet there are generaOy
from 60 to 70 acres of turnips, and 300 acres of fbwn
grais. This parifli was one of the firft in the north of Scot*
land in which the new hufbandry was attempted, and car-
ried 00 with fuccefi. The late Earl of Fuidhiter was the
author of all thefe early improvements. The farm of
Craigholes was firft improved by bis Lordlhip aboot X754 ;
and after improving this fariPt to (hew whatcoold be dooc,
he took every method of excitiag bit tenants to follow his
example. He gave them long leafes of 38 years and a life*
time. A better method could not have been devifed. The
certain period of 3$ years gave his tenants a fecuricy for
carrying on their improvements. The uncertain period at
which the leafe terminated, naturally deterred them £ram
fcourging their farms when once improved, becaufe every
man flatters himfelf with the hopes of a long life. From the
example and the encouragement of Lord Findlater, the
Hct of this and fome of the neighbouring pariihes was
fpeedily altered. But though turnip and green crops were
encouraged, and flour- mills wtre built, yet a regular rota-
tion of crop h^ not been eftabliflied, nor has much wheat
been* raifed in this difirifi. It is probable, however, that
the high prices of flour will occafion wheat to be rsufcd in
greater quantities, though for a light foil a crop of turnips,
and another of barley, is lefs fcourging, and generally more
produdive than the Ibuth country praftice of kllow and
wheat.
Rent. — The rent of the parifli is mofily in vifiual, and
varies from L. 1000 to L.i200.
Populaticn.
rf BbytuRe. 307
Pofmlaiim. — The number of inhabitants is 1260; of
which there are 800 nearlj in the countrj pariihy and 460
in the fea-town of Whitehilk. The population in 1755, is
flatcd bj'Dr Webfter at 994 foub.
Sea-town. — ^The town of Whitehills is chiefly inhabited
by fifliers. There are feven boats employed in the fiihery ;
and they are generally -vety tuecefsftiL llie^ ^iiikb of fifh
principally caught are cod, ling, and haddocks ; and be-
fides coofiderable quantities fold in the town of Banff, and
in the coontry around^ the fiiheis generally carry tvtrj
jet^ to the Frith of Fofth cod and ling to the amount of
L. joo or L. 6oo.
Siifmd, C^»« — ^Tho miliiftetHS ftipead is; ioHfoney, L. 39,
and in vidual, 60 bolltf. Th6 colledions for the poor
amount to about L.25 yearly, including the intercft of
L. aoo of lent money. The fchoolmafter's falary is only
9bollsofmeaL
CbaraBer oftbt PeofJe, — ^They are fober, induftrious, and
charitable. From the long leafes, and reafonable rents of
the farms in this parifh, the people have not that fpur to
exertion which racked rents produce for a feafon. Bnt
they have every inducement to fteady and regular induftry,
wbieh improves both tlieir bodies and their minds; and
they are ftrangers to that defpondency« hffitude, and dif-
jgnSir which, after a few years unavailing exertion, take pof*
felfion of the difpiritedi hard-toiling, and difcontented far-
raer, who is oppreiTed by a rack-rent and fhort Icafe, and
at.laft becomes carelefii of every thing, when he lees, that
with all his induftry, he is unable to pay his landlord and
maintain bifs family.
NUM.
3o9 Siati/Hcal Accwnt
NUMBER Xin.
PARISH OF SOUTH KNAPDALE,
(COUKTT AKD StNOD OV AroTLK, PrESBTTE&T Of
Invzrart.)
From Mtatrialt eomnnmieaied fyjome Gmtltmin
m thi Parijb.
Natni^ Situation^ lie.
THAT portion of Argylelhirc, which is co&tiined bc:
tween the iftbmi of Crinan and Tarbert, b knows
by the general appellation oiKnapdale^ or Cnapadah^ a term
it owes to the flriking inequality of its furface. It is bound-
ed on the north by the loch of Crinan, and track of the in-
tended canal; on the eafl by Lochgilp and Locbfine; on
the fouth by the ifihmus and lochs of Tarbert ; and on the
fouth-weft and weft by the Sound of Jura. Its extreme
length from north to fouth is about x8 miles, and iu great-
eft
ofSouib Knapdale. 309
eft breaddi firom 10 to la. It is interfieded ftom the fouth
hj the lochs of CaoEfport and Cafilefwen. The firfly and
moil eafterly, penetrates about £oixr miks into the cooi>-
trjr, and derives its name from iu narrownefs. The fecond
owes its title to a cafile, ficnated near its mouth ; tvhich» to-
gether with others on the weftern coafi, were ereded as
fiortrefles hj Swen, the Daniih conqueror. The loch ha-
ving paffed this place about two miles, fends off a branch
to the weftward ; and continuing its courfe for two or three
miles fiirther, expands fuddenlj,^ and fplits at once into fe>»
▼eral branches,- refemUing the palm, thumb,* and- Sogers of
the hand. The Intervals between thefe branches are finely
diverfified with woods, rocks, fields, and (heets of water,
wbich, viewied from the road leading from Inverloflay to
Gliiflbrj, exhibit an affemblage of contrarieties' fe wildly
grotefque, that fane j can hardly image a landfcape more ez-
quifitely deHghtfuL The divifion of Knapdale weftward
of tfai^ loch, called Rois, is of excellent quality. Could the
foil and rocks, with^which it is unfortunately ioterfperlied, be
feparated, there would not perhaps be a more fertile fpotin
Scotland. The country to the eaftward, if we except the
eftates of Caftlefwen and Hl^ap, the low grounds of Inver-
neil, Ceannlocheaolifport and Ormfary, th^ extenfive plains
round Kilberry Caftle, and a few patches along the fea«
coafts, forms a counter-part to that of Rofs. It fwelJs'tnto
high and rugged mountains, incrufted with mols, and ihroud«
ed with heath. The ihore, however, where not arable,
is generally covered with wood ; which furniihes excellent
flielter, and proves very convenient for the wiuter-pafiure
of black cattle.
• Knapdale, to the fouth-weft, juts out into three great pro-
montories or headlands. The moft wefterly is called the
point of Kilvicoharmaig, Its fi j^rc is fomewhat like that
of a crefcent, between which and the beautiful peninfula of
Daona
5IO MmyUcid Aee^wu
Dumft li€8 the hirfaoor of Lochatkilk, u wakatmgt Wd
known to mtriiieffs. Betwtea the lodit of GaAfe aad 6i^
difport is the ceture^pronmitoryt or poiat of Knap ; aarf
tho pbiat of Ardpttiick is formed by a baj to the aoitliK
weft, ft&d the weft lochof Tarbert to theibath.
Eeclifiafiical SutU lifihe Pon^.— This coantry was £ar*
merlj a parfoaage depeodaot upon the abbots of Kihriimiiig.
When, at the IUfbrmatioa« that abbacy was converted ia-
Xo a temporal lordfliip, a large triao^ of Knapdak, adja-
cent to the mouth of Weft Lochtarbert, was anammd to
Kilcolmonel. The remainder was ereAed into a paxiik,
confiftiag of fix feveral places of WQsftup» amoag wUdi
the paftor perCoraied a fort of cooftaat iti^ra«y. The
incoavenieocy of a charge fb extenfive, and (b lateffaAad
by arms of the fea, was equally £elt by the miaifter and
people \ and, upon application being made iAaot 75 yaass
ago, the parifli of KnapdaJe was divided iafo the pariftMs
ef Sooth and North Kaapdales, by a line of ieparatioa ori-
ginating at the fhore, (oath of GafilefwcPf rifing about a
mile due eaft» and running north along the tnouatains ciQ
it tenaioates in the trafi of the canal, a mile eaft of Loeh-
Crinan. By this partition, the whole point of Knap, and
. glen of Caolifport, was included in South Knapdale ; but,
4 though it had acquired nearly double the extent, the fa-
periority of North Knapdale fitted it tp fupply the occa-
fions of a much grca'ter population.
jlncUnt ProfrietorSf l^^.— -Power alone, in the ruder
ages of fociet J, conftituted a right. No other title was ne-
ceflary, either to its acquifition or maintenance. The Mac-
. millans were anciently proprietors of Kilhamacgand Knap.
The lali of the name, to prevent the proftitution of his
wife, butchered her admirer, and was himfelf obliged to
. . ,.:; abfcond.
^ Sautb Knapdalc. 311
abCcood. Hia charter was inferibed in the.Gacfie ]aiiga;ige
Mid charaAer npon a rock at the eztremitj of his eftate.
It proved but a feeble fecunty agaiaft the rapacit j of a
barbarous age. The property was coateSed for by the
Campbells and Macoeils, the latter of whom were a power-
fill dan in North Kaapdale, and decided in fiivour of the
ibrmer by compromife* It continued in the fame finmily
tiU the yeas 17 75* when, after the death of the tenth pof-
feflToTi the eftate was purchafed by the late Lieutenant-Ge-
aeral Sir Archibald Campbell of InvemeiL The fword'of
MacmWan is iaid to be ftill in prefervation. But it is fin-
oerely to be regretted, thift the infcription was defaced by a
collateral of the Knap fsmily about 30 years ago. Unlefs
prompted by the vanity of having his anceftors confidered
in fotnre as the aborigines of their property, it is difficult
to affign a probable motive to an aftion fo gothic* Mac*
millan's mode of inveftment, in heritable right* is not with-
out precedent. The Macmurachies, of old, were proprie*
tors of Tcrdigan and Kilberrie, lying in that part of Knap-
dale annexed to Kilcolmonel. Their charter is alfo engra-
ved| in the fame language and charader, upon a rock near
the ihore of thefe lands. From this very ancient family,
if we may credit the popular legend of the country, b de-
ficended the prefent, but unfortunate, royal line of France.
Macmafier of Ceanolochcaoltfport, Achahoiih, and Eilary,
became mailers of thefe lands, at a very cariy period, by the
murder of Macavcrn, the ancient proprietor. A pool of
the river, where he was a-fifiiing at the time, and cairn
where he fell, ferve to perpetuate the memory of the fatal
cataflrophe. llie pool is c«tlled to this day Lin-eam-vica-
vem, I. e. the Pool of Macavcrn '3 CHiro. The pofteriiy of
Macm»lter were eminent fo: their dexterity at the fword,
and their activity in repelling the incurfions of neighbour-
ing
311 Siatiftkdl Account
iog depredators. Their eftate was fold hj RonaU, tUe
laft of the race, to the late Sir James Campbell of Achna-
breck^ and by him ^oiivejed to Campbell of ShirTen, in
the poflefEon of whofe familj it now is. The Macneils
and Macmillansy after having efiabliflied themfelyes along
the eaftem coaft of Caolifport» were gradually fopplanted
by the Campbells* The formet found means to preferre
the property of two or three farms in that part till towards
the beginning of this century, when they were ezcambioo-
ed, with the then Argyle, for the ifland of Coluflnay* But
by far the moft coniiderable family in South Knap^ale was
the Macalafters of Tarbert. Cantire Ivas at that time beU
by the Maodonalds; and the Macalafters, who 'are allowed
to be a tribe of that clan, poflefled almoft all the lands
around Tarbert, and along the coaft of Lochfine and Locb*
gilp, to the extremity of the pariih* They were interrupt-
ed in the poiTei&on of their property by the M acivers, a
reftleis tribe of the Campbells, inhabiting a part of Glailarj,
who effe&ed a iettlement, and ereded a fort of fort on the
weft fide of Lochgilp.
The inroads of thefe invaders were, for fome time, ex-
tremely vexations to their fouthem neighbours; till at
length they were overcome, and almoft extirpated in
two bloody conflifis; firft with the Macneils, neir the
mouth of Weft Loch-Tarbert, and afterwards with the
Macalafters on the fliore of Lochfine. The fanguinaty po-
licy which deprived the Macdonalds of Cantire, gradually
diminiflied the authority of the Macalafters* The Mac-
alafters became mafters of Dael and Craiglafs, now the pro-
perty of Macarthur Stewart of Milton; and a Peter Dow
Campbell, taking the title of Kildufclan, of all their other
lands north of Inverneil. Thefe lands, after paiOng through
the hands of the Campbelb of Bamicarry and Aikemil,
were purchafed, about three years ago, by Mr Macneil«
late
f>f South Knap4aie* 3 13
late wiittr at Inverary. Four other fEurms, belonging to the
Macalafiersy in the vicinitj of Tarbert, are now in pofleffion
of Macfarlan of Muckroj ; and three more in that of
Campbell of Kintarbert. The remainder of the eftate, with
the manfion-houief burnt down bj accident about two years
fince^ was purcbafed by the late Mr Campbell of Stone-
field. Not a fingle acre is now in poflefiion of the Mac«
alafters ; and the ancient dock of Macneils, once all power-
ful in North, and numerous in South Knapdale, are matters
of no more than two fiurms in the former, and one in the
latter pariih,— ^
Sic tranfit gloria mundi ! 4
When northern ferocity had involved the weftem wdrld
in darkneisy and buried the arts and learnbg of venerable
Rome in its ruins, it was the peculiar felicity of the firft
planters of Chriftiahity in Argylefhire to have refaied the
facred fpark of Science from eztinftion, and lighted up her
torch in the diilant ifland of loHA. Benevolence feels the
generous glow of fatisfadion lyhen it reflet, that, whil^
the ambitious priefis of other countries were defolating
ftatesy and dethroning princes, the devout of this were dif-
feminating, in fequeftered iflands and folitary caves, the ge-
nuine truths of that religion, which announced peace on
earthy and good will towards men. The purity of its doc«
trines, we admit, were at length contaminated by foperfti-
tion and legendary fable ; but the gibbet has never been
ereAed, nor the faggot lighted up, for the deftrudien of the
human race.
Monuments of primitive Chriftianity are numerous in
Argylefhire, but no where more frequent than in South
Knapdale, Of thefe pious relicb there are four ancient
Vol. XIX. R r chapcb^
3T4 Statiftkdl Account
chapebf which have fuffered but littk from the nift of dme.
A fifth, was removed by the MacaKfters of Ceannlochcaolif*
port, on account of its oontiguttj to their houfe. A fixth
at Kilmalifaig, and a feventh at GlenakiHe, where there
are burying-grounds, may poi&bly have ikared a fimilar
&te. Of tbefe, the chapels of C0V5 and IJUmimon Ceem
to bear marks of the greateft antiquity.
Sk Columbus and St Patrick, lays tradition, having qaar-
relied about a point of faith, determined to part* The for-
mer, difgufied with Ireland, fwore never more to (ee it,
and fet fail for Scotland. He landed on the weft coaft of
Iiocl^caolifport, where be. built the chapd of Cove^ the
walls of which, till of late years, had undergone but littfe
dilapida^on. Near the eud of th{» church is a cooiecntted
cave, which gives naioe to the farm, in which it is fitoatc^
I^ altar and font iUll remain^ and over, them a crols, cut
QQ the folid rock, by no uomaflcrly cfaiflal. Traditiflii
a4di, that Columbus having diicovered the Irifll coaft from
a^ adjoining eoiinence, deferted the plf ce» and afierwaxdir
founded the renowned femioary of IcainmkilL
The following anecdote of the fain;, whether aaihcntie
ot i^ot, ferves tQ prove the precarious tenure of proper^ in.
this country during the middle ages :-«»A book being ab*.
4ra£ted« which the faint particularly valuedyhe, in. the
overflowing of his refitment, dcnouooe4f Uu»» anarhe roak
ffgainft the culprit :
'' Fhir athttgnaoo^molcabhar,^
^* Gu m boidheach a bhios do bhean ^
<* Gu ma h ard a bhios do. tbi^;
** Gu lua luath a bhios do threabhadh
" Agus gtt.nio.dtas a. bhios doi Uiailc.''
« Thou
of South Knapdale. . 315
^ Than purloiner of mj book, be thy wife handfome,
^ and thy hoofe lofty; thy tillage eafyi and thy
^ faxm Ueft with a hxppj ezpofare/'
Who then, in the iesercife of his fober fenlb» t^ould iU-
tempt to break the b<mds of civil fociety, when, by intto-
blueing anarchy, he muft convert the moil darling objedi of
^efire into our greateft ciirfe? But to return.
Near the well coafi of Knap lie a group of fmall ifland^
the mod confiderable ivhereof is Ellanmorekilvicohannaij^.
Carmaig wa3 an ancient proprietor of this ifland. Hb
whole family confifted of a grand-daughter, Whb ufed t6
amufe herfelf by angling on the Ihore, which is furrounded
Vrith currents, and frequented to this Say by VaUt crouds df
filh. It happened upon an occalion of this kiiid, that a
bone, in place of a fifli, came out with her line ; ihe uh«
hooked, and threw it back into the fea. Again and again
it came out in like manner. Chagrined with difappoint-
menty (he carried it home, and put it into the fire. Th6
whitenels of its a(bes Aruck her fancy. She •endeavoured
to preferve them ; but, burning her finger in the attempt,
tnflindively dapt it into her mouth. By this means fhe
became pregnant of the faint, whofe fupernatural gifts were
to long to furvive himfelf. He founded Kilvicoharmaig,
the mother church of Knapdale ; and, after a life i^ent in
aAs of piety and devotion, was buried in hss native iiland.
His tomb, % little oblong building, elevated about three
feet above the ground, remains uninjmred by time. The
fiunt b faid to refent, with the rooft fummary vengeance,
the leaft indignity ofiered to this monument. Near his
tomb is a (mall chapel, built by himdelf. It is arched over,
and covered with flags. Within, in a recels of the wall, is
a (lone colGn, in which the prieds are (aid to have been
depofiied. The figure of a naked man is cut on its cover.
The
3 1 6 Statijiical Account
The coffin, alfo, for ages back, has feryed the faint as i
treafurj; and thb, perhaps, might be the purpofefpr which
it was originally intended. Till of late, not a firaogcr fet
foot on the ifland, who did not conciliate his fisToor, bj
flcopping a fmall coin into a chink between its cover and
fide* Upon an eminence, not bx off, is a pedeftal with
a crois, and the figure of a naked man \ and near to the
profs is a cave, pofieffing the wonderful power of franfing
llerility in every perfon who dares to enter it. This ma-
gic iiland, if we may believe the legendary (lory of the
&int,. poflefled many fingular qualities. Nothing coold be
jilolen from it that did not of itfelf retom. The mafter of a
vefiel, conceiving a liking to the crofs, carried it along with
him \ b^t, being overtaken by a ftorm at the Mull of Can-
tire, was obliged to throw it overboard ; it floated back to
a creek of the iiland, called, from that circumftance. Port*
nacroijb^ i. f • the Harbour of the Crois. Miracles were
performed by the faint for many ages after his death. At
length a woman, labouring under a dyfentry, addrefied him
from the oppofite fhore, in the following verfes^
<* 'S mife bean bhochd a' Braidealban
<' A m' iheafamh air lie Mba* Charmaig
*' So naomh ann an Eilean na fairge
*^ Thig's tog a bhuineach o m'earbal."
It was an unlucky bufinefs for the invalids of thofe days,
The faint granted her requeft ,- but was fo fcandalifed by
^he indelicacy of her language, that he became deaf to the
prayers of his votaries ever after.
The cave preferved its reputation till of late ; and, but
for the following untoward accident, would have remained
an objed of terror tfll this day. A pair, more folicitoos
about gratifying thi^ir paflions than promoting the political
intercil
of South KnapdaU. 3^7
intereft of their countrj, went into it, with a Tiew to bring
its infloence to the teft of experiment. They were dilap-
pointed. The female became pregnant, and the whole
■eighbourhood fceptics. Though the miraculous excellen-
cies of this ifland have now ceafed, they are amply com-
penfated to the proprietor by a natural one. Not a patch
in the Highlands is fitted to produce beef or mutton of a
fuperior quality.
The chapel or church of Kilmory-knap feems to have
been the moft confiderable in South Knapdale. Its walb
are almoft entire. A beautiful obiliik, or crois» (lands, on
the north fide of the burying-ground. It confifts of a fin-
gle ftooe, neatly cut, and twelve feet in height ; On one
fide is reprefented a fiag-chace ; and on the other, the cruf
cifixion of our Saviour, fufpending a balance. There is
alio an infcription, which the compiler of this account had
not time to examine. It is faid to be in the Hebrew or
Gallic charader.
Kilduflan is a fmall chapel on the fliore of Lochgilp. It
exhibits nothing ftrikbg ; and tradition has forgot to inroU
it in her ample page.
About 25 years ago, the tenants of Ceannlochcaolifport
difcovered fix or feren fione coffins in a potato-field, not
far from the place where the chapel formerly ftood. They
were of difierent fixes *, but all of them too (hort to contain
a human body. They were placed in the dire&ion of eaft
and weft, and all empty, except one, in which a fmall frag-
ment of human bone was found. Perhaps tlie cuflom of
burying the dead, with the head towards the weft, was an-
terior to the aera of Chriftianity, and borrowed by the pri-
mitive Chrii^ians from fome pagan fuperftition. Th^fe
coffins may have been placed by the Druids, as receptacles
for the afties of their dead. The bone difcovered may have
))eeo rendered Icfs perifliable by a pmiial calcination. Ic
muft
51 8 Siaiffiicml Accwmt
mnSi becottfcfledt however, that though the drnidiad teiB'
pics he fceqneat in Argjleihuey and coamonly suet wiA
io plaifii like this, jct not the leafi veftife of any is te be
^cohere*
The followiiig cooplet has been handed down by the ge«
WsdogaOs of this place :
Colmonel, Clan A gorrj, Barrj, Clan Mnradiie,
Mac Charmai|^ Clan Neill» Martin, Clan Dooachie*
It is addnced in evidence that Saintt Cohnonel, Banj,
Macoharmaigt and Martin, were of the clans therein roca-
doned. The probability b, that thefe fathers floDriifaed st
a period OHich anterior to oor earKeft accounts of thefe
clans ) and that, infiead of being of the fame race, they hsd
been adopted as their tutilaries. The bell of St Barry's
Chapel is ftill io prefervation at Kilberry Cafile, and hal
been long prollitated to the ignoble pnrpofe of fiunmoniog
the fervants of that family to their meab. It is in&ribed
with the laint's name, in the Lstin language and Saxon
charader, but unfortunately without date. The reviva] of
bell-founding, if loft in the middle ages, and the period st
which the Saxon alphabet was introduced, might {throw
light on its antiquity. T*here are very many Kilmorys,
and not a few Kilbridcs, in this part of the Highlands. Tbe
former have likely been dedicated to the Virgin Mary, aod
the latter to a faint, whofe fame has reached far and wide,
fince we find that there are not only farms, but pariflies, of
this name in the low country. It may reafonably be coo-
oluded, that they are of le(s remote antiquity than fome d
thofe already mentioned. It was not till the church be*
came grolsly corrupted, that the Virgin was recogoifed in
an intercefTory charader ; and, as the fame of modeft merit
rarely extends to a difiance, there is caufe to believe that
St
^fbutb KnapJhU. 3 tf
St Biicfe might either be one of thefe miracTe-xnaking jug-
glers, which too often difgnced religion ; or that her me-
Bory has been manufaftared by fubfequcnt prieftcraft, to
miniRer to the occafions of its vanity or its avarice.
The collifion of oppolite dodrioea, and the cruelties in-
tided by the orthodox^ previous to the Reformation of re«-
Kgiottt were unknown here. Motives of intereff^as well'as
reafon, induced our chie& to become of the Proteftant per-
fuaiion^ and their example was readily followed by the po-
pulace. Common fenfe was infolted by our clergy ; but
in no other refped had they injured us. The cafe was d^^
Cerent with. the reformed of other parts. They had expe-
rienced the full force of hierarchical tyranny. Their
wounds were ftill bleeding, and they were hurried by re-
ientment into exceflesy hardly inferior to the abufes they
affeded to corred. It is to our honour that the fame doc-
trinal unanimity continues ftill to prevail among us. Of
the fix pariflies which conftitutes the preftytery of Inve-
rary, there is hardly a fingle diflcnting native, either of the
Komifli or Seceding church \ and the fum total of ftranger
Ctfholics in South Knapdale, amounts to no more than one
^rwonoaa from Perthftiirie.
ExieMif l^f .— This pariQi is in length, from fouth to-
north, about 10 computed miles, and 16 in breadth. It is'
fituated in the county aod fynod of Argyle, and preiby tery
of Inverary. The foil is chiefly of a mofly nature, incum-
bent on aifaratum of land ; but in the lower grounds it ia
a good loam. Very little of the parifli, however, is arable ;
and that which is ploughed or dug with the fpade, produ-
ces in general fo very light crops, that it is reckoned more
profitable to throw it into (heep-walks, or pafture-land for
cattle. The grains chiefly fown are oats and bear. Every^
where
320 Statyiical Accomt
where potatoes are culdTated with great care, and of late
Che J conftitttte the principal food of the inhabitants*
Cltmaii and DiJia/is^'^Tht country being mountainous
and adjacent to the weftem ocean, heavj rains ate fre-
quent in fpring, fummeri and autumn. The winter is ex-
tremelj fiormy ; fnow is (bmetimes veiy deep, and htA is
generallj of (hort duration. The inhabitants are common-
Ij very healthy, and many of them live to a confiderable
old age. The moft prevalent di&a&s are the (inall-poZy
fevers, and colds.
Riv€rs.^TheTt are feveral rivers in the parifli, all of
which abound with trout of an excellent flavour. In dry
weather aU the rivers are fordable ; but, owing to the heavy
rains that fall on the mountains, they often rife very fud-
denly to a great height, which renders them wholly na*
paflable.
Roads.'^The roads are extremely bad, efpecially in win*
ter. The befl is a part of the great road on the call fide of
the pariih, which leads from Inverary to Campbelton. It
was made by the fpirited exertions of the Duke of Argyle,
affifted by the gentlemen of the county. In fome places
it is formed on the fea-ihore, through a ridge of ruggid rocks,
24 feet at leaft perpendicular above the fea.
Minis and Mineral Springs. — In that part of the parifh
that belongs to Sir James Campbell of Invemeil, there is a
lead mine that had been wrought feveral years ago. In
the neighbourhood of the mine a few mineral fprings
make their appearance ; but no experiments on the virtue
of their waters has yet been made.
Moutttainim
iff South Knapdak:.^ 521
Moatttauu^'^f thefe there is no fcarcitj. The moft
remarkable are Cruacb Lufacb^ u e, the hill of plants or
herbage, from the great number of herbs growing on it ;
and Siiabb Gavf//(a mountain feparated at both ends). It
is twelve miles long, and eight broad 4it the bale \ it be-
longs to the Duke of Argyie.
Wooib and Caves^-^^mt parts of the parilh abound with
natural woodsy or coppices of oak, aih, birch, and hazeL
Several of them are well inclofed with proper fences*-^
Although there are not a few caves in the parilh, yet none
are of confequence but one, near which i§a chapel, with an
altar and foot. The farm in which it is fituated is called
the Cove.
Ecebfiafiiedt State. — ^This parilh <:ontaios three jdaces
of worftiip. One is at Tarbert, thirteen computed miles
from the church at which the minifter refides. In this
ehapel it was the cufiom, till of late, for the roinifter to
preach every fixch Sabbath : Now a miifionarjr is eftablifli-
<d there by the Society for Propagating Chriftian Know-
ledge. There is another chapel about five miles from the
church. The prefent incumbent, Mr Daniel Hyndman,
was admitted to the charge in 1771. His predeceflors
were, Mr Patrick Pollock, firft. miniller of this parifh, after
the disjundioR from North Knapdale; and Mr Hugh
Campbell, now ndniiler of Kilmartin. The Xing b pa-
tron.
The prefient incumbent, when he came to the pariih,
found neither axhurch,'or proper place of worihip, in the
whole bounds. There was not a glebe nor manfe. The
fiipend was only L. 47, with L. i^ x6 s. for communion-
elements. In the year I772» he was under the neceffity of
'^uing the heritors at law before he could prevail upon them
Vol. XIX. Sf to
ioMlizkifk. ^ti^£oiMM,ftr the^^oTAlfyteip
ft ftei^ Hi tb€ fields. Iir flk^ jcf«r 17^0^, h^ ^sftervi a
jAh^ffof augmeftttftioA agsMrft thieter; atM hi x77j> ob-
taiara a ck^reet of te'ooifitenoii rot fboBfi €tt€ Sptnit A
Ibur cHaiAfn of viftiid;- oml hdf dft-ifteil, ih£ MxethaS
heart with L. 600 Soots, and L. 40 Stdts §6^ tomfltaniMi^
elements ; a fum by far too finall for defrajing the czpen-
teaf of Ai: Commnqioi^ lA fo popMoftf a piii^. At there
hrnoxibinfe» th6 herrtorii aUdw L. 10 St^rHAg pir mm/tim
WtS one i» buIK.
ki^iiffri^ 6^e.Mfth€Hi ate eleven fflbptieim in tke p»-
JftRtt dl #KMif t^o onlj are #e1ideAt. There sve four te-
nants who occupy eztenfive iarms. One of theoa psyi of
rent yearly L. 256, another L. 105, a third L. 103 ; all ez-
plufiie 6t pMBt hutdcns; Th<r6 a tf MrfideHrble bmiaber
pf fihalfer tenants.
Poor. — The number of poof on the parifb-r^ is 15.
They are fupported by thtf inteteft of L« ao» which ws
mortified by the lat^ Cath^bell of Stonefiild. To this
Y^ry £h&all (vitn is added f he coB^dions at the dnirch, which
fire eztremdy inconfidcrable.
Population 0/ South Kkapdah hi ihiynar 1 79$.
Maki,
FemuleSf
Under 10,
255
Under 10,
107
From 10 to ao.
Z18
From 10 to 10,
^
From ao to 50,
aSi
Froin 20 to 50,
307
From jo to 70,
95
Frohi 50 tb 76,
109
From 70 to 90,
30
From yo to 92t
20
Total malwi 7^9 totsd Fem»le», 73J
f (!tt3 populafiofi, 1^14,
Of
oy South Kngp49i^^ ^i
Pf theie, 236 are married; 15 widowers, 9^4 ^9 T^^-
Marriages in Z793f
Births in 1793,
«
10
3^
Na. of Clerg J, parochial aad
Refiding heritors,
Tackfinen •,
miPoaary^ ^
4
3
7
S€tM>oto«fier99
Tenants,
Cottagers, *
Male lervants^
FjBipale ferv^tSf
Mafonsi ftraogcrs,
M^ons, Hiffhlande;?,
Joiners, ftran^ers.
Joiners, natives.
^
3
89
»58
«4
»9
i
4
5
;
Shepherds, flrapgersi
Shepherds, natives.
Improvers, EngHfli,
Gardeners,
Smiths,
MiUeis,
Shoemakers,
•
a
«4
3
S
5
6
«3
Dyers,
*
X
No.
« Bf taekfiucii it imdeiaoodi Ibob m Jm&'Om qTjd^ frivt ; 4iid .1^
tearatt, fbdb as nept only ao Iwlf, fi fwtb^ fv m ^g^lh ()f ^^ <AVn.. ^iQOfg
C9tt^9Hiy;^e inclfvMt J^Ot 9n|]r d^y4«b<mren, bvt aU.ftnraflts, w)io, ^.
Tuig famijif^ receivf liverj meal for their board. There ve few men in
the parifli who have not, at one time or other, ferred in the boanty^'fiihing
vdSeb ; and by boonty^fifliefs, it nieant» fuch as wm ip .d«t cnphiy das
ftafioQ. Htf f4ydc,<ftrr» is^jw mijpdlpoil, t|i^ cawvy of iUc^ ^^9 ft
pucfiie t^^Okii)|( ip the <Ht^ ^ Ciy^, i^id l9c|^ ^9ipiiVK» during tl^
Ceaibn ; and, by Caolifport and Knap iUhen, fnch as attend to it QO lonftf*
tlwi ^|)U« the hmngi coDtiinit in LodHcaolifi^oit,
324 Statical Acconi
No. of Tailors,
19
Weavers,
Soldiers,
»9
4
Bounty fifhers,
Frith of Cljde fifliers,
Caolifport and Knap fiflien.
Boat-carpenters,
Publicans,
5^
40
80
3
9
Comparative Population ofSouib Knapdak.
No documents are to be found, whereby the general po>
pularion of South Knapdale, at any former period, can be
ezaflly afcertaincd ; nor are there toy records of births,
marriages, and deaths, from which conclnfions of that kind
can be drawn. The compiler of the(e has feleded cmt the
fiu-ms in which the greatelt variation has happened,, and ob-
tained lifts of their former inhabitants from tenanta pof-
fiefling them at the time* fpeoified :
KilmalieaigandDrimdriIhaig,in X768'r &x b X796, 52
Ormfray, . 1784, 149^ »
Lochhead, - I77«» 108 34
Barmore, - - »77S» 4^ 5
Invemul, - 1768, 147 34
Oacfield and Brackley, X782, 191 81
li6 239
Diminution of population in thefe farms, 477.
In the year 1772, when the prefent incumbent took the
lift of the inhatntants of the parith with a very particular
exaftnels, the population confided of x6oo fouk. Accord-
ing to Dr Webfier's lift^ in X755> it amounted to 1292. In-
creafe fince that period, 188.
The emigrants to America fince X763, amount to X75 ^
of thefe, about 100 emigrated in 1774 and fince the pre-
fent war commenced.
Hclding^
rfSotdb KnapdaJe. 325
RoUing of South Knapdab.
Sbccj^ . - - yooa
Black cattk, . • 3000
Horfes, - . - . 25a
Henfial in 177a, - • L 1003 o ^ o
Rental in 1796, - 2335 5 C
The (Upend of South Knapdaie, as eftabliihed
by decreet of modification anno i775» is,
Vidoal, four chalders, half bear half meal,
converted at - - L- 33 ib •
Money, - . . 53 4 o
Total, L.86 14 o
Scfaoohnailer's falar j, - - L. 7 o o
Za«^trii^^.— -The Gaelic is the preTailing language fpo»
ken in the parifli. The Engliih has of late fpread coniider*^
ably, oiving, tn a great meafure, ta young people travelling
to the low country, and returning home after they acqui*
red the language^
CharaBer of the PeopA^^^Thc inhabitants are in general
adive, induftricus, and humane. They are extremely fet
dom guilty of any kind of immorality, that can ezpofe
them to puniihment by law.
fj^mfi.— The herring-fiOiing occupies a confiderable
inmber of people. The fifli annually frequent an arm of
the fea on the weft of the parifli. It is called Loch^aoHf
poftf which fignifies a fmall loch, with a harbour. The
berrings alfo frequent Loch -fine, which bounds the parifli
•n the nordi-eaft The value of tbefe fiflabgs will, it is
believed
90^ SiaiiMirai d^^^mt^
bdkved, be incrfpfej 1^ U^e .Cn9U ^Cftnil, t copfidenilile
part 9f which rnns through the parifli.
Jiifaivamiagit^-^The peopk here labour under many
dUadvantages, which are great obfiades to their preient
happiaeis asd inproTeineiit. The want of fraper ichods
fdr the edncatioQ of youth is none of the leaft. Thcte ii
not a parochid ichool^ ^^ .diofe ^Mifhrd byjtjbe So-
ciety cannot accooMnodfilp gSi tl^e chil^reoi JBMpj of whom,
owing to local fituations, h/trc if JD|ot j^ tfixir |(ower tp ^•
t^ tl^eau— The diftance from'market^towns^ 9faA jtik bvd
^e f)f tf^e roads, aie complained of as very great Iiar4(^ps>
—The icarcity of 'good fuel is feverely felt by all the io-
habitants ; peat and turf are univerlally uliMl ; but whea
tli^ b^Io^ for cafimg them is wet, which js not ^(mfiqp^ueDtljr
the caCe, the poor people (aStt beyond de&ription; and
evm ddiough thf fcafen is frT^Nxrab^ ip pn»=& ,cf ^
time is necejOarily ipefit ix^ preparing f^Oft peats^ ibpt m^
tWngs of impoMnos j» i^gFiciikiVR^ 4^ m^ ))e.qfQMtf|Dd.
NUM.
i^ <i friin/i to Staii/licai En^ulrbs.
SHuaiitm^
IN Stonnoiity a beautiful and fertile fubdi\afion of Pertd-
fhiret is pleafantly fituated the parifli of KincIaveUi
It is under the ecclefiaftical jurifdiftioa of the prefbyterj of
Dttukcldy and fynod of Perth and Stirling. l*he bounda-
ries arc, Csrgill on the eafi; Caputh ot the north} and
Anchtergaven on the weft and fbuth.
Climate and Sail. — The climate is not greatly ezpofed to
the fttdden and frequent viciflitudes of heat and cold, rain
and droughty which feldom fail to afied, in no fmall degree,
the agricultural operations, in diftrifis adjacent to the w^ftem
cMfis of Scotland^ or in the immediate vicinitj 6f the high
motmtaiffii
DKNiiitaiiis and eztcnfire ridges of hillt in PeidiftiR.
Owing in a great meaiiire to the mildnefr of the climate,
and partlj perhaps to other caufin, this plafce is believed aoc
to be produftive o^ or to fofler, any epidemical diftemper
mmongft the inhabitants, who are generally firong and
healthy.— The foil is moftly light and iharp, contsining
great numbers of water-worn ftones, many of which are, is
ibme places, fo large, as to obftnid the operations of tbe
plough. The moorlands, and higher parts of the paiiih,
contain in their foils a fmall proportion of moOy earth. A
rich black loam conftitutes the foil of fome of the grouods
in the neighbourhood of Amtully. The furfiwe is diver-
fified with a few rifing grounds, all of which are acceffible
to the ploogh, «nd are not elevated to a great height above
the level of tbe fea. From fome of them, however, the
profpeds are diverfified, and very pleaianc
.^d^^arftsr^.— Agriculture is here carried on, in feveni
places, with confiderable knowledge and ezerti^m. A ro-
tation of crops, fuitable to the foil and climate, is adhered
to by mod farmers. Farms in general are fmall, being
from about 20 to 50 acres arable. , One of the moft eztco-
five arable farms is Innemytie ; it is rented at about L. isj
Sterling per annum. Some places are parcelled out into
fmall paffles. or farms, few of which are above 30 seres
each. The occupiers of moft of them are under the necef-
fity of following fome other occupation than that of farm-
ing. A confiderable number are weavers ; each of whom
has a loom or two in the corner of the houfe, which is ge-
nerally low and ill conftruQed. They employ tbemfcives
at the weaving bufinefe, chiefly during winter. Their atd^
fils are far from being always in the beft order, or made
after the moft approved modeL Thej* are, however, good
enough, for the fabric of the cloth woven, which is moftlj
coarfe
coarfe Unena* for th^' Perth mdrket.- ^ve^ral loondd 'Are M&r
pK>i^ed%y mamtffi£hiti<r9 iiy'Ferth, wfro fiirni(h the yanr,
aad^^^'a ^ntttii pike "for! tHe yard' weaving^* Som&'of
tlKfe'ftxntfiAirffi!ers'**o|:<pafleYs ate arttftoes employed WTth
»k^if h»ife»' tnd tAfkr^-kht toads/ iStt!; By thid frugal 1
fyftem, -imiiiyiiiunMrottlf'fairiiKes are trained up in habitsof
ifiddfliry<aiid'«cdnotny, though not with that eUgtfnte atid
IttKliry^MAch, of bte, feivebeeofriae the ^hai^Ocriftid marki»
4ȣch0iflte if Hiiingf* adopted by extenfive farmers.
Tbcfecmdefiaieiivor firAers, or by wh«!evcr name th^
may l)ecsdled» are.cfaeir owi]:niafters, arid,'o? confequerttfe,
pofle&anriadtpendenc ^ic, ivfaich 'is veryfeldom to tie
feafid ommigftxfae menial hinds and othei* ferrants of gte&t
farmecs. . They pay a rent for their lanid greater in propor-
tion« ptilfaaps, than could be' got by the laiidlordi were their
fmall poffcffions throws into large fsmA'; "and many of
them are. improving tlietc lands With coiiiiderable (kill and
sfiivityw*— More than the' half of the parifii, however, is
not inclofed, a circuaoiboce noG much to the credit or pip-
fit either of the proprietors or tenants. Many acres of
moor or wafle land yet remain to be. improved. Thefe
neglefted fpots abound irt prcfent with heath, whins, bent*
broomi &c. thac affbrd but a coarfie and fcanty pafture for
cattle. The foil, lAmoft pgrts of the parifh/ feems to be
iiatiirally well adapted* for the growth of broom; in Ibme
places that plant rifes to the height of {even or eight £eet,
and makes a kind of .(belter as well aa fence to corn-fieUs*
Arntully moor is the moft extenfive piece of wafie land ia
4be parifh. It b chiefly occupied as a common for paftu*
ring cattle belonging to the neighbouring farmers. A great
part-of the comn^pn of > Arntully -was abont ao years ago
Subdivided, (gUhiif ac€Oi*diiig to tft^ provincial language),
anil convenient farm-houfes ai^d offices ^b,uilt on the fubdi-
vifions. The foil, in general, will i^^mit of coniiderable im«
Vol. XIX, ' T t ^ provemen^.
provemeak. It a.^ervtUo hem ^90% at ki lawy
pAttx places of Scochad, that whea ibe flBoait are pared or
'^t for tut^ they nataraUj prodaee ■hnniianr orape. af
gmiU, (cbtji/imtbemmn fi^mn)t ep*-* few ac|M ploBis,
which are qot, until the IWardI is^cat awajr, ibualTgiowiag
20 the place. This is efpecially the cule ta thefe «ooni
.that bud ancientlj been in tillage. It is bdievad that the
feeds of the gQiid will, when buried in the gtoigad, actaiii
their vegetative power for a great lepgth of lSaaa» but
when ezpofitd to the influence of the weather, will readilj
vegetate. This is certainij true, not 00I7 with re^ieft tn
the feeds of this, but of many other l^antSf To» madi care,
thereforci cannot be taken to dit dofwn thcfe weeds iwhsdi
. are hurtful to egricultare befi>re the feeds arrive ta tnata^
rity. It is grofsly abfurd in fitfdien to allow tiniles, &c.
to grow without moleftation no way-fides, or other onod-
tivaied places. The fe^s are moftly carried into die ad-
• jacent fields, and occafion much trooble. Many of thetn
periA, but millions are buried in the earth by die ploagb,
and afterwards vegetate with great luinriancy wtien raificd
vp» even at the diftance of many years, to the influence of
heat, iigbt, and rain. Fanners hi this, and all the neigh-
' bouring pariflies, are reprehenfible for not checking more
* than they doi the progrefr of tbefe plants, ifrhicb, whatever
their medicinal virtues may %e, are very hurtful to agri-
. caltnre.r-TAlthough much of the foil in Kinclaven is fit for
the turnip hu(bandry, yet a vttj fmall portion of it is hid
out for the cultivation of that nfelbl root. The grains com-
mqnly cultivated are oats, barley, wheat, b^ans, and peafe.
The produce is generally good ; barley frequcndy yields
eight returns, that commonly gives meal for grain* In
ibme places the old, but abfurd' coftom of fowing peafe, to-
gether with oats, in the lame field, is, by fomc fflovehly far-
piers, Aill continued. It generally happens that the one
• grain
gruia.i) ripo fiooaer thali tbk other. Ixi delence of thii
caOom it is allc^d, that i^ owing to the weath«r» one of
the iundtf fail» the oth^r wilibe tolerably good. - Every «x^
perimoed farmer, will coqfider this' argument w^extrtanely
incxmolBfive.
< Fo/miatioaf^^Tbm niunber' of inhabilaais in - the yea*
^7SSf ^7 Dr.Wehfter's acooUnty. was 993^ At. prefect, it
is aboot izjo.
. Qki^fiki &4o^»— rThe parilh kirk is in good tepair; tho
nwUip oot* DruQ^aaood of Logie*. Almond is patron, Tho
Rev. Mr John Scott is the prefent incumbent* The ftlf
pend is 1000 merks with 4 chalders of viftual.— A meet*
ing-h^ofey behmging to tho Antiburgher dais o£ Scceders,
wasereded about a mile oaft :of ArntuUy^ in the. year 17441
and is frequented by n numerous congregation £roa\ tbi$
and the qeighbouring pariihes, ^ho proire thenUelirei^ by
their lan^ahk behaviour, ta be good meiiilfera of Society.?—
There are two fchools in the parifh, both of \f hjeh arc veU
frequented. The falary annexed to the parochial fehool is
L 80 Scotch.
VUlqgu.^--Th^ Qhirf in the pariib is ArotuUy, commilnly
pronounced as if wrilten AmtiUy» It isTuua^ i Uw
miks weft of, the church,. and |)9a^ of abon;, 60 qr 79
dwcllitig«ho»ifes Mattered iaetcrydire^n, and exhi^K^
ing a ftrikiag pidurfipf moiciu. i^lli^glQff: i|i 9^9^ parU4>f
the kingdom. The roKds and ps0^gdB amo»gft the hpu(b
ace iiico9ceiYa))ljPl bad, elpecii4ty in. wet yfpti^t. Whap
addacoaiiderably to ttljbir iiiiferable ftati;i it t))f at^omiqab^
bfUiiloo geiwral pradipcf .o( pluctng :thr .fl#pghiU..Xwi^4eq-
hole, ^mtgarJjn) befeire ibf doofs of thr d welling^^uifMrfnffaar
of which, la every paiar^fju^Wi; much APWi^iwi^^ba
3 2tuatioa
33^ StaHJHcai Acanmt
iitttiition in which they are placed* The coontj of Berdl^
were k poflefled of no other ipot of a fimiUr defcriptiooi
Ihould allpw AmtttUj to remain in itf prefent ftace» that a
proper contrail might be drawn, betiwcen a neat modcra
village, and one upon the old conftmfiion. Moft of the
inhabitants, many of whom are weavers, occupy a fmaU
kit of ground adjoining to their iMofin, whidi fiuniihes
them with garden Auffi, &c« by whid^ aiaoy of diem are
enabled to keep milch-cows. This they vexy jnftty confi-
der as a great help to their families. They (eem to be
oontented with their domeftic condition. Befides AmtuDy,
the parifli contains a few very fmall TiUagei, as Knock*
ftinaa, &c«.
fPoMb.— This diftrift is ornamented with letreral cop
pices, or aatnrat woods, chiefly of oak, birch, and haae).
They are cut every nm^een or twenty years, for the iake
of the bark, which at Perth brings a good pri^» There
are fome plantations of pines and foreft^trees, generally in a
thriving ftafie.'
RtverSf FiJtings.^^'Iht Toy is the only river here that
merits notice. It runs in winding diredions for the fpace
of feveral miles on the nor^ and eaft; no where, iniu
whole oourfe, has St made fiftsh ravages on the land aaia
this pariih, driefly on the'eftate^of Mr Dmmmfond of Logic
Almond. It has at feverat timds forced its way through
the banks, and made ^gre^t excavations in the eom-fields^
where it has formed fpacioaa> traAs for itf^ Three <^
Ibnr 'of thefe vn£t%i being now abandbned by the ri^er, re-
ftiain laftitig monuments what the ' Tdy in its fiory can do*
It is probable, that at no great length of time it will make
ftin-'more eztenfive dftvaftations on the' richeft- and noft
beantiful psUrt of the purifli.-^Thef'fifliing^ on the fiTer ase
cf
'^^'tf Kincltwen. 5.5J
of (bme importance. One at the Linn of Campfie, on a
rerj fmall extent of the water, brings L. 80 per annum to
Lord Danmore the propfieton The '&11 of water is no^
high, but the Linn is very deep, and contains great quanti-
ties of excellent ialmOn. On the Tay, about a mile from
the kirk, it EiiCAaven fdrt)", nrhjch occnpieif tfaf<e ferry
boats, one for foot-paflengers, one for horfes, and another
for carriages. At the ferry, is a good and commodious inn»
on the Kinqlavfu fide of the xiyen
MiUs, — ^The parifli is fomiflied with feveral com-milk^
to which the land in general is thirled or aftrided. The
thirlage. in fome places u confiderably high. This, kind of
fervipide is here, as well as almoft every where elfe in
Scotland, confidered as a great hardihip, and an obftacle to
agricultural improvements. Thefe thirlages or mukures,
at the firft ereAion of corn-mills, might have been very
juft and neccflary. Now they are quite the reverfe. Wfiy,
therefore, fliould an improved fociety fuff^r an univerfally
acknowledged grievance any longer to exift, and impede
the moft beneficial improvements of the country?
Ct^ffi.r^mUtt^ Caftle, on the banks of the Tay, re-
mains in ruip^H; .Tfaq .walls .are about eight or ten ikec
high ; andnnlefadeftrqyed by;fbme modern Goth, will con-
tanue, for agef, tx> ei^bit, an example of the ancient ifiroqg-
hobd in Scotland. .. p
I.)
354 Statt/Hlktif JccouiH
PARISH OF BENBOiTHT,
(County of Perth, StvoD of AwbtJi Aitu Mcarks,
Presbytery of Meiole.)
By tbc Rev. Mr James Platfair, Minifier.
Situatittt.
THIS parifli lies near the eafttril bcmhdar^of Penh-
tfaire. The church fisnds lA N. Ist.* 56^ 33'. and
'long. 5 in in. 6f a degree- W. from I^lhibar^ ; being a
mile and an half N. from Ctipar Angus ; 6 miles W. from
Meigle ; 14 miles N. £. from Perth ; and 17 nuiles N. W.
from Dundee. It is fituated on part of the loweft grounds
of Strathmore, (Great Strath), being that extenfive flat
ivhicb runs almoft in a (Iraight line from the fea at Mon-
trofe/bj Forfar, Cupar Angus, Perth, and Stirling, to
Dunbarton, and the mouth of the frith of Clyde, in a di-
reftion nearly N. E. and S.W.j and is bounded by the
Grampian
erat^iaftn immonafaa^ 00 the N. W. v ]kn4 bythif Stdrrtrf
and QohiA Hilbtoa the &. £4; tbiei^r«^«IA of tte •anth kbH
cweenbeiiiggQOerall^ifroiPiySio^S'Siiiei. • ;
tight bank of tii« riv^r, lila, ,p«rt of the ureter of Whkh
rifes in the loch of Forfar, where is .tbe^igheftjproiuidicC
the flat between this and Mootrofe, (about 200 feet above
the fea). The coi|rff c^ th^ wat^r frdpi the Mh of For-
lar is through Deao, Ua, and p^rt of Tay, in a line firom
fi. E. to S. W. aj^ng the middle of Stcathmore. The Tay^
after 'ft gradual winding to the left by Perth » runs by the
Carfe of Qowrie fiod Dundee to the German Ocean, 'in a
direAion nearly parallel to the abo^v portion of the tra&
of the Ifla inveite^ The Ifla itfdf rifea ia the Gram-
piaii moontaiaft and russ generally S.E. with a rapid cut-
rent till it is joiniod by the Dean, after Which it runs S. W.
(paft the Iputh fide lof this pariib) into the Tay. At tfae
church of Bendothy the Ifla is 75 yards broad, and. a yai^
.deep at the ford. It is no where deeper than 9 or 10 feet
in Ibmmer ; and its bsinks are nearly the fame height abov^
its ordinary furfaee. At high floods, it rifes 13 or 14 feet
above its Uimmef l^vel i this is io pan owing to the Tay,
below this, being contraded for foor miles by high and
narrow banks. The Ifla here is 100 or no feet above (he
level of the fea. It runs with an infenflble hJL
River
* Gnxnptan moontains are from zooo to 4000 feet and upwaxds above
the level of the Tea. Originally and Tulgarlf called Grandi-bem (Great
Moaataim). See Boetlmis*i Intrododhon or Prcfa€e» and Buchanoan^s
biex.
• f Sidliw, (Snd-Iaw; or ScnA-Ulk), fo called from their pofition whh
. ftfyfik to StrtthoMR' Th^ 9Xt sbc«t 1000 or 1400 ftet above tile leyd
fftbeies*
53<f Statifitfcal Accotni
I Jb*^ Er6a'^ tfcErichL^^-^Thk riv^f Mb'lufb the right
fidt of the lila in thb pariifa. It alfe iffid^sfrom t(^e Gi^m-
pians. It is compoM of 'the united 'ffreamis . pf Shee and
Ardky which lad feems to be a contraftion of Erochdde.
The 6hee, called alfo Blackwater, fii)ls intothe left fide of
tbeArdle. Thefe rivers generally nin S.'E. all of them
with a rapid current. ' '
Divifions of the Pori/hl^^Tht river Erodi divides that
part of the parifh which is in continuation, nearlj into two
«qual parts. One ot thefe parts, lying W. of Eroch and
N. pf Ifla, is embraced on other fides by the parifh of Blair-
gowrie ; and the other of thefe pans, lyitig E. frbm Erbch,
and N. from Ifla, is embraced, on other fides, by the parifli
of Alyth on the E^ and by the pariih -of Rattray partly on
the W. The pariih of. Cupar Angus bounds the Wflol^
along the Ifla, on the S. That part of* the parifli which it
in continuation, is 6 mile^ long, and a mile and an half
acrois. The church itands in thte middle of the wefiem
divifion. Befides thisi there are two other parts of the pa«
rifli, infulated entirely by other pariflies, and feparated
from one another.* One of thefe parts, compofed of Pcrfy,
. on the Shee, and Cally on the Ardle, lies in the angle of
confluence between the Shee and Ardle« the neareft part
being 7 miles from the parifli church. The other infulated
part, Drimmie, lies on the left bank of the Eroch, being a
mile from the former part, and feven miles from the
church. Thefe two parts, taken together, are about a
fourth of the whole parifh.
Name.^^Tht name of the ^arill), in the preftytcrj
books, during the laft century, is written Bennethy or
Benathy ; the iiril of which exprefles the pronouociation at
the place, and aUb the etymology (Nether hill) ; on the.
fonth
tfStndotby. 337
Cootb declivity of which hill the church ftands. It has
1>een fome time written Bendochy, being a 'corruption of
the form of writing, which occurs in the preftyterj book,
the e having been therein written backwards, the end of
Second n turned above the line, and the i written very
fiiort. The navie infcribed on the communion cups and
places is Bendothy, A. D. 1786.
Wtjlem Divifiw. — That part of the parifh which is in
continuation is almoft all under cultivation. That part in
which the church ftands, W« of the confluence of £roch and
Ida, is generally, eafy level grooad. It confifts chiefly of a
gentle ridge, rifing with an almoft infenlible afcent from
the river Eroch, and running from thence fouth-weftward^
parallel to the Ifla, having its higheft fummit at Muirhead,
oppolite (he church, from whence it declines again to the
weft ward. The fides of this ridge decline gradually to-
wards the Ifla upon one fide, and to the Monkmire on the
other, which feparates it from the parifli of Blairgowrie.
Its higheft fummit is 80 or 90 feet above the level of the
Ifla. It is compofed entirely of that red clay Iiibftance,
called mortar here, from its ufe as a cement in building.
Between the above ridge and the Ifla, there is another in«
ferior ridge, which runs a imall way parallel to the greater
one ; on the S« fide of which (former) the church ftands*
The inferior rifes about 60 £eet above the Ifla. It is compo-
fed entirely of gravel, or water-driven ftones and land. It is
broken off a fmall way, and then, in the fame parallel line
to the fouth- weft ward, an inrulated ridge of the fame ma-
terials occurs at Couty, which the water of Ifla fomfetimes
nearly forms into an ifland# ' There is befides a good deal
of pcrfedly level ground, efpecially near the banks of the
rivers. This divifion of the parifli wefiward of the Eroch
is poflefled by three proprietors.
Vol. XIX* U u Coupargrange,
j3t Statiftical Aecimni
ConpargrangCy on the E. b held hy the heut of the late
Dr Young, Profeflor of Midwifery in Ediaborglu R«C
paid by the tenants is L. 651 Sterling; and valued rent,
L. .T411 Scotch.
Gouty and Bendothy, on the W. held by the Hoooor-
able James Stewart Mackenzie, Lord Privy SeaL Rent
paid by the tenants lately, L. 338 Sterling; and valued
rent, L.958 Scotch*
Mudhall, in the middle, worth L. 71 Sterlbg annually ;
valued rent, L. 125 Scotch*
Thefe ^Dates contain about 1500 acres, rented, or
worth annually, L. 1080 Sterling, befides 100 acres of
fir planting ; they are divided and fubdivided by thorn*
hedges ; but there are few fencible inclofures. There is a
great variety of foil. The foil of the heft lands of Couper-
grange, efpecially the level ground near the confluence of
the rivers, but now 40 feet at leaft above their floods, is
compofed of a deep black earth. This black earth, com-
pofed in a great meafure of the rottings of vegetables, is
more generally incumbent on fand than on mortan In the
grounds of Coopargrange it is above clay ; but there b a
ftratum of fand between, which drains off the water. The
lands of Mudhall are compofed of three feet bUck eardi at
top, and then pure white fand for more than 40 feet down,
as may be feen at the place where Ifla has puihedtin its
flioulder and undermined. There b a black foil fimilar to
this on fome parts of the Lord Privy Seal^ eftate, bot it is
generally on lower ground there, and within flood-mark of
the Ifla. It is on fuch ground that the feed-oats grow,
which have got a name through all the country. They
are called the Coupargrange Oats. They are the common
oats of the neighbourhood ; but rife cleaner, whiter, and
fnore fubftantial, from deep cherifhing foil.
Where
tf Sehdoiby. 339
"Where the mortar * is uppermoft, as in feveral |.Iaces of
tbeiie groimds, efpeciallj fuch as are highefiy it proves a wet
poor foil. In fome places^ which had formerly been moor,
there is a thin Uack furface above the morcar, which hsis
been produced by rpiten fog and mots \ this proves a very
wet backward foil. From fmall experiments it appears*
that fttch foil would be greatly improved by trenching.
flarth that has once been trenched^ will never again acquire
the impenetrability and (blidity which it had ristained from
its firfi formation ; befides, in fuch foil, there is no good
ground to lofe from the tep, by trenching. The rock be*
low mortar, which is alfo of a red fubfiance^ when dog
from the bottom of wells« ihoulders in the air, and feems to
be rock marl. Ground that has a bottom of gravel and
fand has commonly a very thin foil above. This is the
only fort of foil that baffles induftry. The Ifla floods be-
tween 200 and 300 acres of thefe eftates. At high floods
it covers the breadth of half a mile from one fide of the
river to the otheri Water-made ground is generally dry
and fertile ; more £b than moft of the other grounds that are
above the flood-mark of the river. There is no vegetable
mould under the latter, in general ; the former is in a great
meafure compofed of vetegable mould ; this is fome com-
penfation to the farmer for extraordinary trouble and great
rifles in harveft, when the watery element threatens to pof«
feis his property. Some farmers drag their corns to higher
groaiids when cut } others truft to the feafon, and fome-
times
* That red coarle clay, c«lled mortar, is the bafis of all the grounds
in this part of Stratbmore. Upon digging to a proper depth, it will always
be found at the bottom, either in the form of clay or rock. Sand, gravely
pure clay, black earth, are always incumbent on it, never otherwife. ■ Ora-
tel IS found on ground near to rivers, (and on fiat ground, which, though
remote from them, is not many dozen of feet above their level^, rathCT
than elfewbcjT.
2^ StatiJIkal Accovmt
time» efcapci but at other times the' overflowing tfoo^
IWeeps all before it. Two neighbours bad taken tbe£e op-
pofite methods : One jeered the other for want of faith in
Providence ; in a few days the rain defeended and the flood
came, and the provident farmer retorted* Where is yoac
faith now» neigh liouv? h is down the water with yoar
com. tn feme inftancesi the proprietors of thefe eflate»
have given very liberal bene&ftions to their tenants, for
damage done bj the river in harveft ; particularlj in bar*
▼eft 17749 when die river rofe two feet higher than ever
was known. It was within fix inches of the top of the
loweft arches of the bridge at Cootj. It kft the boctona
of the furrows bare where wheat had been newlj ibwa
that feafon; and that place was nine years of leeovering its
foil and' vegetable powers. There is a lidce of marl on the
N. W. boundary of thefe eftates, called the Monkmire,
which is for the prefent exhaufted; The Stormont loch,
at the W. comer of Lord- Privy Seal's eftate* contains marl \
this loch is not yet dninedw There is an ifland in it, which
has probably been a^laec of ftores. The difirifi called Stor-
mont lies between that pkce and Dunkeld.
Eafiem Lhifion^-^ThAt part of the parifli (in continua-
tion) which lies eaftward of the confluence of £roch and
Ifla, rifes with a gradual afcent from the Ifla and Eroch to
the N. and N. W. terminating in a rifiog ground, which
forms part of a front ridge of the Grampians. The higheft
part may be from 600 to 800 feet above the level of the
Iba. There are about 1000 acres in this divifion of the
parifliy rented, or worth annually, L.998 Sterling. It is
poflefled by twelve different proprietors, four of whom re-
fide. Six of thefe proprietors pofleik the Grange of Aber-
hothry, which lies in the angle of the coiifiuence of the
livers^ and is much of it low ground i 200 acres of it, at
teafl,.
cfBendoiby. . 341
« leaftf flooded by both rivers. The proprietors of the
Grange of Aberbothry are :— -Mr Macdonald, bte reiit^
L. X05 Sterling \ prefient rent nearly double that fum ; va»
lued rent, L. 355 : 18 : 8 Scots. Mr Murifon» late rent,
L* 50 Sterling ; valaed rent, L.171 : 7 : 2 Scots* Mr Jamie*
Chalmers, rent L. 60 Sterling ; valaed rent, L. 123 : 8 : o
Scots. Reverend William Chalmers, rent L. 55 Sterling ^
vahied rent, L • 116: 17 i^s Scots. Mrs Geckie, rent, L. 74,
145. Sterling \ valued rent, L. 133 : 17 : 7 Scots. Mr Ro-
bertfon, rent, L. 49 Sterling; valued rent, L. laa Scots*
Mr James Chalmers and Mr Robertfon's lands, are the only
lands of the Grange, altogether above the floods of the
rivers.
The other eftates of this part of the pariifa, lie on ground
aibending to the north-weftward from the Grange. The
names are : — Blacklaw, Mr Kinloch, late rent, L. 224 Ster^
ling; valued rent, L. 643 Scots. Polcalk, Mr Thomas
Whitfon, worth L. 50 Sterling ; valued rent, L. lox : xi : 8
Scots. Muirtown, Provoft Halliburton, rent, L. xaj Sterling ;
valued rent, L. 138 : 6 : 8 Scots. Thorn, Mr Rattray, rent,
L. 39 Sterling ; valued rent, L. 179, 13 s. Scots. St Fink,
Mr James Anderfon, worth L. 88 Sterling ; valued rent,
L. 187 Scots. TnHyfergns, Mr David Millar, worth L. ^%
Sterling ; valued rent, L. 293 : 6 : 8 Scots.
The eftates of Grange of Aberbothry are all level, ma^
nageable ground, with a gentle afcent north-eaftward. They
are all open and unindofed. Not above 30 years ago the
boufes were all cluttered in a village, and the eftates were
in runrig. Moft of the lands of Grange are of clay, of a
whitifli nature in the bottom ; but much of it is changed
above into a darker vegetable mould, alio fiunous for pro-
ducing feed*oats. Some of the grounds, efpecially in the
haughs, are i^^qdy. The whole haughs here retain the
marks of old trads of the Eroch, which runs in floods with
3 •
f4^ Statiftkai AccmuU
a noft rapid airrtiit, and hat eren litdded the Ifla fior femft
waj ynAk gravel ; the Ifla bwtg dcftitate of gravtl all ihm
m%y above the confluence. The fuperiority of the foil, on
fcMne of the low grotrads of this parifli, ieems to have origi*
Aaced from their vicinity to the rivefa, though now above
the reach of their higheft floods. The foil of the other
eflates of this divifion, which lie N. W. from Grange, as
BlacklaWy Polcalk, and Muirtown, coofifla of a foottoai,
and generaUy a top» of mortar, or that red coarfe clay,
which is the mother earth of this part of Strathmore, and
iDoft generally foond in the neighbourhood. Thele grounds
rife brifldy from the Grange, and form part of a ridge of
die Grampians. Thofe parts of this afcent, which are nM>ft
level, have the blackeft and molt beneficial earth. Thofe
paits which have the ftcepeft afcent have redefl earth, and moft
of the colour of the bottom. Here and there, efpedally, in
the fteepeft afcent, appears a red rock, mixed with fmall
rounded pebles. There are many detached, rounded, whin
or moor-ftones in thefe grounds, blue and hard, a fort of
porphyry, from one foot to three or four feet diaooeter,
which have no mother rock here. The farms on the eilate
of Blacklaw, are divided/rom one another by thorn hedges t
and there are fome ftone-dike inclofures on Muirtown und
St Fink. There are not above lOO acres of this divifion
uncultivated. On thefe grounds, and neighbourhood, cfpe-
cially at St Fink and Chapcltown and Little Drum, there
are many of thefe Angular ridges ,of nature, called here
HrvLXM^ (dorfum) i perhaps xo or ta of them within a
fmaU
• There ue many of thefe dnmis in the neighboorbood, in the pariOics .of
Alytb uid Rattray, and in the Stormont, which have the fame ptraUeUfm
and pofition with the above. The Garr}'druiDs in the Stonnont, which are
delineated by their dales and rills in Stobie*s map, are among the moft ir-
markable, being a mile and an half long each, aboot loo feet higlk, mxA
^00 feet broad at bafe, and riiing above one another, according to the im-
t»r»l
ef Bendoiby. 344
finall fpace of each other. They *haTe all a paraUofifm t»
one another, and decline eaftward. The rills between them
rom
lonl afcent of the j;round in die neigbboiiriiood. Indeed, drums .occnf^
over all this part of Strathmore. On the S. fide of the Ifla, their length it
N. £. and S. W. parallel to Strathmore. It is evident, that they have not
been produced bf rilb, fince their length is not parallel to the line of do-
fccot of the mountain, on the fide of which they ftand, but generally pe»>
pendicular to it : Befides, frequently, though not always, the water mn^
from the dale at both ends. And in level ground, in many cafes, the
drum raifes its back high above all grounds adjacent. Whatever caufo
may have produced the mountains themfelves, and the great vale of Strath-
more between diem, thefe drums in Stradimore appear plainly <o have been
produced by the tides of the ocean, of which Strathmore was then a cham
neU and to have been formed (like banks in channels of the fea) by the tido
of flood, coming by Forfar from the E. end of Strathmore, and fearching
partly weftward along the ftrath, and partly fearching diagonally up among
the Grampians ; and again by the tide of ebb retummg the fame way by '
which the tide of flood went up. Agreeably to this, not only the rills and
bums, or brooks^ are all parallel to the drums, but the riven Tay, Eiocb, "
and Ifla, as they come out from the Grampians into the ftrath, all point
paftward, and even their bendings among the mountains are towards the £. \
aotwttbftandtng, that afterwards, in the middle of Strathmore, they run ii^
one body fouth-weflward : In coming out from the mountains, the riveci
run in the diredlion of the tide of ebb, and after becoming j:onfiderable
bodies in the middle |0f the Strath, they run in the dire^ion of the tide of
^lood ; circumftances which can be eafily apprehended. That the drums
and courfes of brooks and riifers have been formed in this manner, is an
opinion which I have weighed maturely, which has prefled upon my mind
for (everal years, and which I have feen a good many paru of Scotland to
afcertain the truth Qf ; which, being an hilly country, full of ftraths, is
better for determining a point of this nature, than a champain country, likf
molt of England. It is an opinion which I have put to the teft of expert-
Bent, by judging before hand, as the higher grounds of a province opened
|o view what muft be the pofitlon of the drums between ; and where the
premises were right, there wi^ no error in the conciufion. To enlarge
ppon this point would be foreign to the fubje^t of|this paper. Suffice it to
fay, that drums are parallel to the ftraths in which they lie. And whero
fhere are no ftraths, they are parallel to the bafe of the adjacent mountains.
Thf druffli ^ rivers are commonly parallel to each other. Iq this caf(^
(h^
344 Statiftical Account
sun £• They ane in length perpendicnlmr to the line eg
Bktnt of the Grampian ridge, on which they lie, or ncarlj
fo : The W. end of them, however, inclining fomewhat to-
wards the Grampian ridge, on the sifcent of which they
lie, and the £. end of them being in the fame proportioa
turned away from it. They are in that part of the aicent
which is flatted ; thofe parts which are fteepeft hare them
more rarely* In the grounds of Polcalk there is a dak
and drum along the very top of the fieepeft declivity.
Higblafid DiJlriBs.'^The infulated and cultivated put
•f the parifli at Perfy, is a level fpot on the right bank of
the Shee, or Blackwater, poflcfled by two proprietors.
North Perfy, Mr Farquharfon, rent, and worth, L. 58 Ster-
ling ; valued rent, L. 156 Scots. South Perfy, Mr Stewart*
rent
the riven tre ftreigbt. It is alwijs a crooked river tbat nms acrois the
drums ; fometimcs following the dale, and fometimes breakihg over die
drum. And fnffice it farther to obferve, that the centre of gravity of die
earth, depends on the relative pofition of the materials thereof ; fo that if
the water enveloping the north pole, were, by fome means, tranfported xm
the fouth pole, a new center of gravity would be thereby formed ; and die
waters would never return to their old bed, but would adhere to die new
center.
I would farther add upon this head, a paflage from Dr Edmund Hallcj's
Aftronomy of Comets >-^* Hitherto no comet has threatened the earth 'wiih
'* a nearer approach than that of 1680, (whofe period is 575 years). For
" by calculation I find, that November nth, xb 6', that comet was not
" above the femidiameter of the fun to the northward oi the way of the
" earth ; at which time, had the earth been there, the comet would have
** had a parallax equal to that of the moon ; this is fpoken to aftrononaen.
<• But what might be the confequence of fo near an appnlfe, or of a coa-
<' tatfl, or laiUy, of a fliock of the celeftial bodies, (Mrhidi is by no meaus
** impoilible to come to pafs), I leave to be difcufled by the iludious of
" phyfical matters.** Another return of this comet may clear up itshiftoiy,
and that of the chknges of the earth. Its 8th bygone vifitation of the earth,
happened four years after die dme vulgarly affigned for the univcxJid dv*
)Ti|;e. Four of thefe vijltadoni have been recorded in hiflory.
ofBendotby. 345
rent, L. 80 Sterling; valued rent, L. 160 Scots. Mr Far-
qoharfon has a houfe here, and has inclofed much of his
araUe land with (lone dikes, as Mr Stewart has likewife
done ; whin or moor (tones having at firft been plentiful on
the grounds. Cally is polTeffed by one proprietor, Mr
Macdonald; rent, L. 91 Sterling-, valued rent, L.^228, 17s*
Scots. The cultivated part of Cally is a level fpot on the
left back of the Ardle. It is rather lower ground, and
drier than Perfy, but uninclofed. Floods of the rivers do
no damage to the grounds or corns in thefe parts, as they '
never reach fo high. There is a large hill or ridge between
Perfy and Cally, uncultivated, and level at top, being a
continuation of the hilly ground adjacent, and having nearly
the fame elevation with other high grounds in the neigh*
bourhood. Thefe high grounds feem to have been the
original furface of the country ; the above cultivated parts
among the Grampians having been fcooped out by bodies
of water running in thefe beds. Perfy, Cally, and Drim-
mie, belonged of old to the monks of Cupar Angus : CaU
ly, for this reafon, was named Monk's Cally. The infu-
lated part at Drimmie is chiefly a fteep ridge on the left
bank of the Eroch, and running parallel thereto, on the
N. fide of which ridge there is a hollow, and then again a
fecond afcent. This eflate is either cultivated or inclofed
pafture. The fences are of moor-ftone. Much of the foil
is wet mortar. It is better foil near the river, where Mr
Murifon, the proprietor, has a lodge. Rent, L. 160 Ster-
ling \ valued rent, L. 308 213:4 Scots. Drimmie pays no
ftipend to the minifter.
The real rent of the whole pari(h, as above, is L. 2467
Sterling. The valued rent in the ceis books, L.6045, 14 s*
Scots.
Vol. XIX. X x Runrig
34^ Statijlical Account
Runrig formerly 4 — ^Therc is properly no village in the
pariQi. About 40 years ago, the fiarm houfes laj togetbcr
in clufters» from the ancient policy of felf-defence agatnft
depredators, and from the convenicncy of keeping the
cattle on common pafture. The farms lay in runrig, that
is, each field was divided into as many parts or ridges ss
there were farmers in the village ; by which the gocxi and
bad land was equally divided among all ; and in winter, or
when in graCs, all the ground was common paihirage. Dif-
ferent properties were thus occupied, as well as different
farms on the fame property. A muliiplicity of ioterferiog
interefts difcouraged any attempt at a change. There vras
not then, nor indeed could there be, any winter turnip,
fown grafs, or wheat ; neither was there any fallow nor
potatoes. Lord Privy Seal, whofc property lay by itielf,
was the firft that divided and inclofed his farms fcparately.
He was next followed by the owners of Cupar-grange,
originally diftributed among twelve pofTcflTors ; but eleven
parts of the twelve were now become one property. Afrer
which, the Grange of Aberboihry was divided ; onginaily
the equal property of eight, now of fix perfons unequally.
There were formerly balks between the ridges ; there was
no grais private property but what grew on the balks.
There are now no balks. Formerly they ploughed with
eight oxen, or with four oxen and two horfes before them ;
at preftnt they plough entirely with horfes, commonly
two in a plough. What com they had was not much in*
ferior to what grows at prefcnt. They ploughed always
deep, cleaned the ground in the fpring, and dunged it
for barley. The whole of the dung was laid on the infield.
The outfield, which was the greater proportion, never got
any dung. It yielded a crop now and then, af^er lying
feveral years in grafs, or rather in a flate of nature ; the
crop was private property, but the grafs was common paf-
3 tttragr.
qfBendoiby. 347
turage. Formerlj tbey ufed tumbler fledges for carts;
the wheek and axle being all of one piece \ thej now ufe
carts of a proper confirudion. Almoft all this parifli was
abbey lands. At the Reformation, the monks fold the lands,
and the tenants who reiided generally became the purchafers.
The circumftance of their purchafe made little alteration
on their manner ^ living. Anciently there was no glai$
in the windows, but only wooden boards; now every
window has fome glafs. There are fix gentlemen's houfes,
auid five farm houfes two (lories high. The inhabitants
formerly had, and fome ftill have, vile' fmoaky houfes for
ivant of vents. This has begun to be remedied in fome
low thatched houfes, by building a three feet wide chimney
of mafon-work, fix feet high, and fetting a clay and flake
vent above it to go out at the top, three feet wide within
every way ; narrow vents of mafon-work being found to be
dangerous in thatched houfes.
^acis ' — In the low country part of the parifli, the tenants
have all tacks of 19, or a fmaller number of years ; and
their rent is paid commonly after the crop is fold and (}if-
pofed of. In the Highland di(lri£b they fcarcely have any
tacks, and as the tenant may go when he pleafes, the rent
is paid commonly before the crop is off the ground, ac-
cording to iht pradice of the neighbouring Highlands. For
fome time bygone, the tacks of Lord Privy Seal's tenants
have been renewed two years before their expiration. A
reafonable rent is fixed on by the heritor, in which the te-
nant finds it his intereft to concur. The confequence is, they
are all old tenants on this oflate. One family has feen out
the century in the fame place. In the eftates of fome
other proprietors of the. pari Ai, fome fiirms have been let
(by newfpaper adveriifemencs for private offers) to the •
higheil bidders ; this makes landed property an objed only
of
34* Statiflical Account
of commerce, which is not fo favonrable for the folidit j of
fociety, as that mode (refulting from the principles of the
feudal fyfteni) by which the tenant, bom at the fame cradle,
and living on the fame foil, wiflies to lie in the fame grave
with his fathers. Whereas a tenant, who has been prc-
fered becaufe he was the higheft bidder, thinks he owes daty
to no man after he has paid his rent. There is one family
on tHe Cupar-grange eflate, which has alfo been there a
century. The former tenant in that family kept a piper
, to play to his {hearers all the time of harveft, and gave him
his harveft fee : The floweft (hearer had always the drone
behind him. In the firll part of this century, the tenants
not only lived together in one village, but each village was
aimed entirely of one family, allied together by marriage
and blood.
Rotation of Crops. — Though every pcrfon purfues a rota-
tion of crops of his own, there is no rotation common to all.
The tenants on the eftate of Cupar-grange are bound to
a rotation of fix years; three to be white crops, wz.
oats, barley, and wheat ; and three intermediate crops re-
fpeftively to be green crops, fuch as grafs, peafe, flax, tur-
nip, potatoes, or fallow. The tenants on Lord Privy Seal's
eCtate are bound to have no more than two thirds of their
land in crop, and to have one third in grafs \ the grafs to
He four years ; they are alfo bound to have half of their
ground in grafs during the lafl five years of the tack.
Sowing mid Reaping. — Wheat is fown in the months of
OAober and November, a boll to an acre. Ii is fown after
dunged fallow, or after potatoes that have been dunged.
The quantity of dung to an acre is from 30 to 40 cart-
loads. Thofe that are near, purchafe fome Cupar Angus
dung; which, when unmixed with earth, is a valuable ma-
Dure,
of Bendotby. 349
sure. It is purchafed at i s. 6 d. or 2 s. the cart-load. A.
load of marl, at four miles diftance, would coil 50 d. coa-
taming 5 bolls. A load of lime, at fix miles difiance,
woald coft I2S. 6d. the 5 bolls. There is little or none of
the two latter at prefent ufed here. Wheat, though lately
introduced here, is raoft congenial to the climate of any
grain ; as it alone, of all of them, ftands the winter, and is
fooneft ripe, and read j to be removed from the autumnal
ftorms. It is begun to be cut down about the end of Au«
guft, or beginning of September. It has not, however, fuc-
ceeded on high mountainous grounds. Four or five hun-
dred feet of difference of elevation, makes a very great dif-
ference of climate ; and of grounds of the fame elevation,
thofe neareft the mountains are the coldeft and dampeft foil*
Oats are fown in the end of March and beginning of
April, (a boll to an acre), frequently after grafs. They
never get any dung, as they grow more luxuriantly, with
lefs fatnefs of foil,- than any other crop can do. They are
reaped, laft of all the crops, about the end of September or "
firil of October. There is almoft no market for oats, ex-
cepting feed oats, which fell higher than the price of other
oats \ but oats are firil converted into meal, and then fold.
The common people live on oatmeal pottage twice a-day«
It is the mod wholefome and palatable of all their food,
being purely vegetable ; notwithftanding the reflexion in
Johofon's DiAionary, that *' oats are eaten by horfes in
*' England, and in Scotland by men." Such food makes
men ftrong like horfes, and purges the brain of pedantry.
It produces hardy Highlanders, who by their (Irength and
drels are fo formidable to their enemies, that they call
them, *' Les diables des Montagnes."
Peafe arc fown in the end of April. They are not con-
fidered as a valuable crop, except on account of the ftraw ;
they are precarious to win in harveft*
Barley
\
350 Stati/lical Account
Barlej b fbwn about the beginning of May, a boll to an
acre. It is fown commonlj after turnip, or other green
[ crop, and is reaped about the middle of September. Barlej
needs to be dunged, if the ground has not been dunged
the preceding yean Barlej, fo called, has two rows in tbe
bead like rye : That which has more rows in the head than
two, is called Cheftcr Barley. The Cheiler is that which
has been moQ anciently fown here, and which is ftill moll
in requeft in the high grounds ^ bot barley is thought the
Aoft advantageous crop in the low country.
Flax is fown about the end of April, after a ihower, or
when the ground is wet. They fow about lo pecks of
lintfeed on an acre. The flax is pulled about the end of
Augufi, and yields from 18 to 24 fione of flax the acre.
There is but little lintfeed faved* The flax is laid for ive
or fix nights in the water, and lies afterwards two or three
weeks on the gVafs.
Potatoes are planted about the end cf April ^ that moft
commonly ufed is the kidney, an egg-ihaped white potatoe.
There are likewife fcvcral other forts here. Two or thiee
bolls of potatoes are cut and planted on an acre, a yard be-
tween tbe rows, and a foot between the fets. They yield
from 20 to 30 bolls and upwards an acre. The ground it
twice ploughed at kail before planting; and they are hoed
and drilled with the plough two or three times after. They
are, or ought to be, taken up before tbe end of September.
The rows are taken up by the plough, and gathered with
children and others ; ploughed again, and harrowed before
and after ploughing, and gathered at all thefe times. They
are kept in winter generally under ground, but fometimcs
imperfedly, on account of the moiflure getting down among
them, and caufing them to rot, heat, and ihoot in thefpring.
If they were to be kept dry in an ice houfe, they would
be preferved all the year over from frod, damp, and vege-
• tatioD.
of Btndotby. 351
taticn. Tbi& is propofed as a fubjefi for a premium by the
Highland Societ j. But I doubt the fingularity of my pro*
jed would operate againit my pretenfions, — ^to keep « thing
from froft in an ice-houfe !
The potatoe is the true root of Scarcity, which promifes
to fet Famine at defiance. The poorer lort of people dine
and fup chiefly on potatoes, in the feafon of them. But
thofe that are in a flate of fervitude, are commonly above
eating potatoes. Potatoes * are ufeful for hoifes in the
fpring ; they eat them raw.
Turnips are fown the firft week of June in drills, the
ground having been ploughed (and cleaned) two cr three
times before fowing. There is the fame fpace left between
the drills and between the plants, as in the cafe of potatoes ;
and they are cleaned and drefied in the fame manner. Sow
them when the ground is wet, or prepare your ground^ and
wait for rain, cv€n a fortnight. They are ready to take
up by the middle of November ; fome of the balls of them
are a foot diameter, feldom lefs than 6 inches. An acre
feedb % cattle, and puts L. 3 Sterling worth of beef upon
each. Both turnip and potatoes are dunged.
Clover and ryegrafs f are often fown out with barley,
fometimea
* I1ie fttbibuice called (hot ftars is nothing eUe than frofted peutoes.
A night of hard froft, in the end of autumn, in which thofe meteors called
falling ftars are fccn, reduces the potatoe to the confiftence of a jelly, or
foft pulp, having no refcmblance to a potatoe, except when part of the ikin
of the potatoe adheres below undifiblved. This pulp remains folt and fluid
when all things elfe in nature are confolidated by froft ; for which reafon it
is greedily taken up by crows and other fowls, when no other fuftenance is
to be had, fo that it is often found by man in the a^hial circuroftance of
having fallen from above, having its parts fcattered and difperfed ry the
fall, according to the law of falling bodies. This has given rife to the
name and vulgar opuiion concerning it.
t Mye-^afi.'-^Thit moft troublefome weed to fanners, and which it it
tht objcA of fallow chiefly to ddtroy, is that ibrt of graf^ called ^icAen^
which
35^ Stati/iical Account
Ibmetiines with other crops; i61b. of clover feed €m an
acre, and two buftiels of r jegrais ; the produds oa good
ground is 200 ftooe of haj.
^antity and IV eight of Grain. — ^There arc about 1500
acres to the W. and 1 800 acres to the £. of the confluence
of Eroch and Ifla ; in all 3300 acres ; of which,
896 acres are fown with oats ;
421 with barlej or bear ;
X48 with wheat;
XI9 with peafe;
58 with potatoes ;
43 with flax ;
87 with turnip ;
130 in fallow;
12^0 infowngrals;
158 in natural grab ;
3300 acres.
The eftates of Drimmie, Perfy, and Callj, fow befides
about 260 bolls of oats, and 150 bolls of bear. The ave-
rage produce in the low country part, is 5 bolls the acre of
oats and bear ; 8 bolls of wheat ; 3 bolls of peafe, Linlith-
gow mcafure ; 20 to 50 bolls potatoes, being 4 heaped bar-
ley firlots the boll, or 20 (lone raeal-weit^ht. In the High-
land diflrifls, the produce of oats and bear is 3 bolls. Oats
weigh 12 or 13 ftone meal-weight, (in the low country) ;
barley 18 (lone, and wheat 14 ftone, the boll, Linlithgow
zneafnre ;
which propagates by flioot9 from its roots, which fpread andrr groand. Tliis
grafs is fo like rye-grafs, that however well fanners know its roots, I fcarcely •
know any of them that can dlltin^iih the grafs of it from rye-grafs. The
quicken grafs grows with the feeds of it arranged in the manner of wheats
while the feeds of the rye-grafs are arranged in the manner of rye. I be-
lieve the feeds of this weed are apt to be fowir for iye<gni(s by mifiake.
qfBendotby. 353
metfnre ; the oat and barley firlot being to the wheat and
peafe firlot as 3 to a nearly ; the ftandard wheat firlot is
very nearly equal to the Engliih bufliel, being iioth part
larger. Good oats yield a boll of meal of 8 ftone for a boll
of oats. Good barley yields a boll and a half of meal, or
II ftone, for a boll of barley. By the above weights, I
mean meal^wei^t, or Seoteh avoirdupois, a done, or s6 lb.
of which are equal to 17 lb. 6 ounces Englifii avoirdupois.
The firlot of the parifli b the Dundee barley firlot, which is
3 lippiea in the boll, or a aoth part larger than the Perth
firlot. The Perth firlot is a a5th part larger than the true
ftandard. Some farmers of late keep two barley firlots,
one for Dundee and another for Perth. The Perth wheat
firlot, which is ufed here, is alfo faid to be a 30th part lar«
ger than the true ftandard *. The prices of vidual have
been fo variable of late, that nothing particular can be faid
of them. The average of wheat fome years bygone was
L. xSterKng the boil; of oatmeal, 138. 4d. ; of bear, 148.
or 15 8. In this year of foarcity^ we have fiecn the wheat
at 50 6. the boll; the bear at 27 s. and the oatmeal at 34 r.
the boll, from the failure of crop x 795*
Cattle. — ^There are x a 29 homed cattle of all ages and
fezes in the pari (fa. 1 have no other general name to them ;
but many of them are doddcd, that is, wanting horns : We
call them Cattle, to diftinguiOi them from horfes, of which
the' e are 232 in the parifli, young and old. Cattle weigh
from 10 to 40 ftone, meal- weight. A fat ox of 40 ftone,
Vot. XIX. Y y ;laft
• If a rod of 63' inches 77 decimal part5, vibrating 47 times in a minute,
were adopted as an univerral Aandard of meafitre ; the length of the rod
woald be equal is t chord of the equator, fubtendin^ the ugle of accelera-
tion of the fixed ftan in the time of one vibration. So that the iengtli of
the rod, maUiplied by the number of its vibrations in a year, would be equal
to a great circle of the cuth meafured along the equator.
354 Statijlical Aecpuni
laft year, bixMight L« zo Sterling. Horict leU from L. is
f o Lm 20 Steriing ; a borie wUl drair So floee of coab
froin Perth, on a cart. There are no ibcep kept in the low
country part of the parifli, bat fbme in the Highlands. We
have no afiea here, but Come fwiae.
Butter and Cifi/i^^^Thtn m a good deal of hbtter and
checfe made i but the cbeefe is hb yaloabk than it woold
be, by wanting the fubftaace of the hotter. Butter fells at
xo d. the pound of so ounces Scotch, equal to %% ounces
Englilh avoirdupois. Merchants retail it faked doriDg win-
ter, giving i6 ounces Eogliib for a pioond, by which the
unwary purchafrr lofes 6 ounces. Cheefe is Cold by die
country peopk (al lb. Englilh avoirdopob to the ftoiie)
at 4s. 6 d. and is retailed by thi^ merchants at x6 of theft
pbuods to the (tone. Tbefe are grievous evils to the poor,
and originate from not refiri&ing the inhabhtnts, ^ca*
cioufly, to the uie poly of one weight apd one n)e$fiune. I
have known an inftance in churning butter, in which thf
cream, after more than ordinary labour, call ap only one
pound of butter inftead of four, which it ought. By ftanding
a while to cool, and having the labour repeated over again,
it csft up the other thre^ pounds of butter.
When Kitty kimcd, and there nae butter came.
Ye, Matife, gat a' the wyte. Alla^t Raksai.
TVire.— -There is a good deal of %1inen yam fpun in the
parifli, and fome of it is weaved. The women fpin widi
both hands, 19 hairs a-day. The price of yam has been as
variable, of late, as that of viAnal, from %$ d. to 43 d. die
fpindle. They fpin 12 hairs, fale yarn^ out o( the Engliih
p9Uffd aVG^rdupo^.
$/Sendotiy4 JS^
MUls.'^Thetejm two lint-mills in the parifh, and font
ebin-milb, for grinding. There are three mtlis ereded iti
the poriOi for threfking cbrn. Each mill is driven hy three
cyr ^fonr horfes* It threlhes a holl in ten more out of wheat
than is done by flaib. But the mill breaks the wheat-draw
much, and unfits it for thatch. *" llie expence of mounting
one is L* 30 or L. 40 Sterling. One of thefe has about 80
revolutions of the threihing-drum for one revolution of the
horfe*s wheel. But as the horfe^s traft is eight times lar^-
ger than the eircumference of the threfliing-drum, th«
threlhers move with only ten times the velocity of the
horfes. lliefe mills give fatbfadion.
Reiti and Produce.-^The whole rent of the pariih is
L. 1467 Sterling. The crop and annual ifaduftry of thd
people is worth about four times that fum, little fiiort of
L. 10,600 Sterling. Of this, one-fourth goes to fow the
ground, and fiimifli implements of hufbandry ; one-fourth
to pay the rent ; one-fourth to pay and maintain the fer-
▼antSi (men^s wages being from L4 to to L. 13, and wo-
men's wages L. 4 Sterling) 3 and one-fourth to fupport the
farmer's &mily. Before the farms were divided, and die
late mode of farming adopted, there was only *' ane to faw^
** and ane to gnaw, and ane to pay the Laird witha'." This
is fometimes the cafe flill. The flock and tiend of the
whole pariih, according to the valuation of the prefbytery
of Meigle, A. Di 1630, was 84 chalders 3 bolls a pecks of
iriftual, and Li 3 131 : 4 : 10 Scotch of olon^y ; aiid turning
the money into vidual, at L. 100 Scotch thft chalder, (which
feems to have been the rule then ufed in the valuation, the
whole flock and tiend, eftimated in vidual, was C15 chal«
ders. But the prefent rent being L. 1467 Sterlings would'
be equal to 193 chalders, at 16 s. Sterling the boU« Ihe
talW
356 Stati/Hcal Account
value of the parilh at that time, thereforCf was littk
than half its prefent value.
Stipind^ — ^The ftipend b 6i chalders of vilEhia], two pofts
oatmeal, and third part barlej, and L, 33 : 6 : 8 Sterling of
monej. The prefent incumbent, who is a native of the
parilh, was fettled, A.D. 1785. Mr Alexander Dun was
minifter for 36 jears before that ; and Mr James Ram&y,
before him, was 47 years mini&er of this pariih. He be-
fjui with the century, and was the firfi Prefbjterian mini-
iter after the Revolution : The people having retained the
Epifcopal minifter xi years after the Revolution, and ha-
ving adhered to him fome tim^ even after the fettlemcnt
•f his fucceflbr. His name was Mr Rankin^— The age of
the church is not known \ it was newly feated about ao
years ago. The wood of the roof is xoo years old. The
manfe was repaired five years ago. It is moftly all new,.
except the cupples and joifts, and floors, and part of the
fore and back wall. It has ftood about 70 years. The
fchool flands at Cupar-grange. The falary is now aoo
merks Scotch. Englifli, arithmetic, and writing, are taoght
by the prefent fchoolmaller. I believe there is no native
of the pariih who has not been taught to read.
CbaptL — A chapel of eafe was built about eleven years
ago at North Perfy, for the accommodation of the people
in the neighbourhood. It c<^ L. 150 Sterling, railed by
contributions in the country. It is dated, (bated, and cod*
tains 400 people. The feat-xents and colleAions amount
to about L. 30, which maintains the preacher. Applica*
tion was made for aid firom the Royal bounty, and from
the Society for Propagating Chrifiian Knowledge, without
cfied. In thb laA cafe, the &ilure was partly owing to the
want of concurrence on the part of landed gentlemen, to
3 comply
efBendotly. 357
complj with the rules of the Society, which require half of
the preacher's falary to he made good by them. There is
a borial'ground at Cally. The chapel at Ferfy is nine
miles firom the parifli-church. ^
JPoor.F— There are at prefent 7 poor perfons on the llilt
who get from 2s. to 5 s. monthly i in all, L. i : 2 : 6, month-
ly. The monthly colleAions are 8 s. L. 6 Sterling b raifed
by an afleflment of 2 s. yearly on the L. xoo Scotch valued
rent, paid equally by the heritors and tenants. The kirk*
feffion had lent L. 100 Sterling to Mr Robertfon of Strath-
loch» alias Baron Reid, which, aftenhis failure, lay 25 yeart
in captivity in the hands of his truilee, till it amounted to
L. 147 Sterling, when it was again recovered. Moft part
of that fum had not been three months in the hands of Ber-
tram, Gardner, and Company, when it was again unfortu-
nate. The fei&on have L. 40 at intereft beiides the above.
The fei&on-clerk's fee is L. x yearly. Five (hillings of
monthly penfion is only 2 d. a-day ; when the poor peoplo
have no other fupport, it cannot detain them long from that
country, where the weary are at refi.
H^a^r/.— When people are well, and in health, they do
not provide for the days of infirmity, which may be many,
nor think of the years of which they Ihall fay, they have
no pleafure therein. L. 5 Sterling were great wages tea
years ago. Twice that fum is the common hire of men
lervants at prefent ; and fome have the &ce to aflc, and the
luck to obtain, near three times that (um, befides food. The
wages of a day-labourer are & d. or xo d. a-day, befides
food \ of a Wright or mafon, x s. 8 d. or x s. 10 d. without
meat \ of a man fliearer for the harveft, L. 2 Sterling ^ of a
woman, above L. x, and meat ; of a man (hearer for a day,
I s. 6 d. i of a woman, x s* and meat. It is too little the
praAioe'
3S8 StaHJikal Jc€ount
praAioe of fiutnen to keep cottan, bj wlikh meaas {teople
are not railed on the grounds infficient to perform the work.
Thej think it mote profitable to import them from the
Highlands. A new cart cods L. 6 Sterling; hameffiag fcr
it cofis L. %f 10 $• An iron-headed plough, and caft metal
monld-boardy cofts L. a. A new harrow oofia 7 a. The
threihing a boll of oats cofla the ajth bolL
Firr/«—Moft of the' people bring any peats they ufe from
Ae mols of Cochridgei in the pariih of Kinloch, being feven
hours in going and returning. Coalsjfrom Dundee or Perth
are the chief fuel uied by thofe that haire carta to dri-ve
them.
Bridg$9.^^Thmt was a bridge built over the Ida, on the
road from Cupar Angus to Fort George, by Government,
in 1766. The arches are five. The middle arch is 30 feet
above the fummer water) and the road over is 15 feet
wide. The road is fometimes impaffablci on the foutb fide,
at high floods. The bridge is built nearly over the only
two natural great (tones in the middle of the river, called
the riding Jlont and thie wading Jlonti and as works of na-
ture outlive thofe of art, they may (hew the place where it
ftood after it is gone. There is another bridge over the
Ardle at Cally, on the fame road, and a bridge at Stron.
over the Sbee, on another road, both of one arch. ' There
is a boat over the Eroch at Cupar-grange for foot people^
jB^jg|ife#i^/.«^Bendothy was the pariih church of Capar
Angus before the abolition of Popery. The church was
then more centrical for the pari(h than it is at prefent. The
feats of Keithick, in that pari(h, ftood in the chnrch here
before die late! repairs. There is a fione in this chwch
upon Nicol Campbell, proprietor of Keithick, fim of Do-
ftal^i abbot of Cupar, and grandfon of the Earl of Argyle,
who
ifBendotby. 35^
who £ed, A.D. i587» aged 70. Hk brother, David Camp*
bell, proprietor of Denhead, (in Cupar parifib), is alfo buried
here. Hedied, A.D. 1584, aged88. There is aUb a (tone on
Leonard Lellie, (entitled, Doimus di Cupro)^ commenda*.
tor of Cupar, who died, A. D, 1605, aged 81. There is a
figure in the wall of John Cummin, proprietor of Couty, ui
this parilby drefled in a coat of mail. A* D. x6o6.
Si Fini^ — There has anciently been a chapd at St Fink> *
dedicated to that faint. That rpart of th^ parUb which ia
eaftward of the confluence of Eroch and Ifla, would feem,
from its fituation, to have belonged to this chapel. The
houles near to it are called the Chapeltown, and the foun-
dation of the chapel remains at St Fink. There has an-
dentlj been a burying-ground round the chapel. The pit-
(ent proprietor dug out fome heads, without a body, (each '
indofed between four fquare Hones, fitted to hold the head ^4
probably the heads of people who had been flaia at a dif*'
tance in battle. There was a cairn of ftones on his cfiate*.
which he alfo opened up, and below the ftones, among the
loofe earth, which was black with burnt albes, he found
human bones, which had undergone fire \ and upon digging
down into the firm ground below, he found two inverted
urns, which had been placed in pits dug for them, each urn
containing human bones ; the bones and urns were in per-
feft prefervation* The urns were large enough to hold the
thigh and leg bones, and other bones, entire. They were
adorned with rude fculpturei but had no infcription.
PiOiJb luUdings^^n digging in the grounds of Mudball
feveralfubterraneousbuildings were uncovered, which, when
cleared of the afhes and earth with which they were filled,
were found to be about 6 feet wide within walls, 5 feet deep,
j|od 40 ^et loBg» or more. They were built in the fides, and
paved
36a
Statiftical Account
psved in the bottom witb rough whrn-ftooet. la tftdr
kngth they were not ftratght, bat a portion of a circle.
It would feem that they had been roofied with wood, and
covered above with earth and turf. They anfwer to Ta-
citos's deibription of the buildings of the Germans : ** Tliey
**' dig caves in the earth, where they lay up thrir grain,
*' and live in winter. Into thele they alio retire firom their
" enemies, who plunder the open country, but cannot dif-
•* cover thefe fabterraneous recefles.*' Be Mar. Germ^c. i6.
If people were obliged again to creep into a hole, they
would know the value of good Cyoveroment by the want
of it. Their creft and edifice would not tower fo high as
they do at prefent.
Pofitt/atioM. — There are in the pari(h i8i Caimiliea, con*
faining 878 fouk. The return to Dr Webfier in I7S5« was
1193 fouls; fo that the population has fufiered a diminu*
tioQof4t7.
A JJJI 0/ Famlitj.
5 proprietors rending, poflcuin
Sth of the v&lucdient.
g to
5 Wrights,
a Ibitbs.
1 fanner, rent from L. zao to L. 140
5 tailors.
4
lOO
110
23 labourers.
3
80
100
•12 (enrants.
€
60
80
6 millers-
9
40
60
2 mxnifter and fchoolfflafter.
«x
10
40
2 boatman and heckler.
9
10
20
10 widows.
9
s
to
11 unmarried
women.
13
under
s
under
xo
iSz&milies.
Ai da4y weavers.
Nttmitr
o/Ptr/oms m Famay.
ramily.
Perfons.
Family.
PeribMi
1 of
H
x8
of
6
* 3
«3
19
5
IS
30
4
IX
3X
3
lO
«S
a
9
XI
t
<4
8
M^
7
181 familiea
of Bendotby, 361
Jn A, Z). 1648 were y^ Baptifms.
31702,
4a 1
baptilins. |
1779. ao baptiims.
»749.
33
\ 17^SV "
MaUi.
FemaUi. "
Relative Situationi.
160
»
^6.
» ..
\ women bearing childrea*
<5S
vpmcQ paft, and not bearing*
«9
widows.
IX
unmarried women keeping houfc
7
—
weavers not boafefaolden.
.a
..
wngbts .ditto*
tftf
•«
male relations of the bouie.
206
female relations.
100
-«
male fervants.
74
female fervants.
105
males under lo jeaif.
97
females under lo yean.
tf^a^M
•HO
43*
nuiles and females.
438
—
females.
»7»
foals.
Ages 0/* the People.
^crfons.
Tean.
Years. |
Perfons. Years. Years.
102
froin 0 tc
10
52 from 60 to 70
jya •
10
ao
9 70 «o
«47
«o
30
X above %o
lao
30
40
•a-...
94
40
SO
Inali,87S(ba]a.
7S
50
60
Kelijious Ferfuafions.
^96 Eibibliflimcnt.
3 EpiTcopals,
143 Scccders.
ft Papifts.
3 a Relievers.
Ilnall^ 878 fouls.
Languagi^-^s the common Scotch, which has not al-
tered .'much in pronouhciation and di&ion fince Gavin
Douglas's * tranflation of the /Eneid in that language. It
is a provincial dialed of the Englifh. Some words are of
Vol. XIX. Zz Greek
• There are, in diis tradlation, a great many learned and foreign words
ifom the tatin and other languages, which (in the manner of Johnfon^s
pfcrafeology) do not e germinate from ^le vernacular tongue.
^6% StoHJHcal Accomt
Creek original. JKm, is Bm9i$ ^ hiH ; irod^^ (about tht
moon), is fipo^o(» m chain about the neck ; Itofi^ is Bgi»9K9
meat. C^r d!r Jii/. Go/. /i2. 6«y^ xj, 14. (i^ys, the Opuds
in Gaul fpoke the Grpek laogaage, tbpir (chook bpin^
formed on tlie model of thole in Britain, Some words are
of French original ; Uancbeamf (milk and water), is, bbmcbi
eau^ white water; ma'gr^^ (in fpite of), is malgm ingk^
(the fire), majr be traced in the Xajon tgnU. The celebrar
ted author of the Wealth of Nations obfenrcs, that people
who live in the country have more intelligence tilian thofe
in towns. Farming does not require many words, bat
much reflcdion and obfervation, and great exertion ^d in-
duftry. People that live in retirement ar^ not fo expert
in the ufe of words as they that live in fociety are ; but
their tongues are better indexes of their hearts. TIkj do
not need to live on little traffic, which is a great enemy to
truth and morals ; and are not always a match for tbofb
arts of trade, by which towns-people fometimes take them
in.
ReligtQM, life. — There is more of the external form, and,
I believe, real fubftance of religion, here in Scotland, at
lead on one day of the week| than is to be feen in other
places out qf Scotland. The clergy commonly repeat their
fermons from memory, that they may avoid tl^e preju-
dices which would Qtherwife arife againft them from faf«
pefted want of ability and infpiratiQn,*-prejudices, which,
however groundlefi they ipay be in their caufe, are r^
in their ponfequeocea. Socrates, a wife man in liis li&i
was certainly a fopi at his death, which was occafioned
by his defpifing the opinions of the people. Such as are
difaffcfted to the church, are, more commonly. i;han other-
wife, very indifferent about the ftate. It is fingular to lee
91* \ie^v 9f them liftin|( up one hand| in their own waj, to
9f ienJoifyi 36J
it&plore » bleffing on the gofpeU and flretching ont di<r
other, to the tnemj, to help to poll it down. Thej ftomble
on that blocks which bean the infcription, that the Pope is
Antichrift. But who is Antichrift now ? He or his ene*
mies ? The Revelation of St John decides it t '^ He is An«
*' tichrift that denieth the Father and the Son." Whj/
my friends, yon care as little for the gofpel and the Sab«
bath-day, as yon do for the Pope, or the Eftabliflnnent ;
otherwife yon wonld not expole the (bame of your naked-
neis, by jobing with Sans Cullotes, to dance with them upon'
the decade. One word more on this fubjefii and I havo
done. Babylon was a great city, and no better than it
(honld be* Rome was a great city, and the whol*e of Baby*
Ion. Beware of making cities too great. They are ca^
pable of making fudden tnmults. It was not France, but
Paris, that twice overturned the Government, and leiit eVe«
ry man to do that which Was right in his own eyes. To
prevent the exorbitant growth of eities may be done by in-*
dividuals, but is not to be attempted by (lateOnen. If the
property of the nation were fpent by its pofleflbrs in pro-
vincial towns, (rather than all coUeAed at the metropolis),
property would be lefs liabk to the efled of fddden con*
vnlfions. The moft defpotic and cruel of all governors
were the mobs of Athens and Rome. From fuch inhu^
man matters, CSood Lord deliver us 1
Camaltn^K canal would be very beneficial to this coon^
try. It coald be brought from Perth, along the tiA bank
of the Tay, as far as the head of the Stormont-ficld oanal 9*
and coold from thence be carried on higher grounds to Cupa^
Angns, from whence is level ground all along to the IakH
of Forfar, which is not ^uite aoo feet above the level o£
the feai
364 Siati/iical AccouM
Ciimaie.^^Tor two months of fammer there b a flroiig ttfU
light all night, fo that one can read ordinarj print hy it ia
die open air at midnight ; the fun being onlj xo degrees
ttnder the horizon. In furomer, in the ihade>« the thermo-
meter flands at about 60^ on Farenheif s feale, in warm
weather above, and in eold weather bebw that pcunt*
There is aknoft no difierenoe between the ftate of the ther-
mometer here, and that at Edinburgh, as printed in the
newfpapers ; in winter, the diermometer is rerj variable*
One night, in December 1794, it was down 24^ below
freezing. This was very uncommon. The W. wind 13
the moft common ; it is a dry wind. The N. wind is alfo
dry, and blows in winter. The £. wind is accompanied
with rain v but in (pring it is fouKdmes dry. The S. wind
16 a wet windv and feldom blows. The S. W. wind, which
blows in the direAien of the ({rath, b the moft common of
all others. The air is often ftill at evening and morning,
and then the S. W. wind Mows at mid-day, and in the af-
ternoon a good gale. The barometer is high ia good wea-
dier and froft, and falls after wind and rain.^
A great fall of fnow in winter feems to change the cli-
mate above it from the time of its fall, while it contimxes
upon the ground. It prevents the cold of the atmofphere
ftt>m defcending to the earth, and the heat of the earth from
afcending to the atmofphere. Grronnd that is not frozen
when the (how falls on it, will not freeze after. One day
a good many years ago, I faw the hoar^froll on the ice of
the river, in the morning, half an inch long. It was fea-
thered like fern, and had great refemblance to vegetadon.
The icy particles at that dme clouded the atmofphere, and
individually were vifiWe to the eye. Though the froft in
l)ecember 17^4 was the moft fevere ever known, there
was a pool of ftiil water in Ida river that did not freeze.
I think that a complete coat of ice alters the temperature
3 ^
o/Bendotbj. ^.
of the water nnder it, and prevents.it frpm being cooled b^.
the atmofphere, fo that it h^s not the fame difpofition to
freeze as it had before it was covered. If hedges or dikes
were raifed 30 yards from the road fide, that fpace would
hold all the driven fnow, and the road would be free from
it.
The crop 17951 having been a bad crop, and having rai''
fed the oatmeal to 24 s. and the wheat to 50s. the boll, a,
iketch of the weather may not be unacceptable. The froft ^
began on the i8th December 1794, and continued to the
4th of January. It began again on the loth of January -y
fnowed on the 19th and aoth, and continued deep fnow.^
. Marcht3. there was fome blacknefs on the ground \ March x I.
the river ice^broke, and went down; March 19. wreaths
fiill in hollows; Sidlaw hills fliU continued white
March 23. ploughs going; March 31. rain and flood
April 4. fowing ; April 15. fnow nearly otf Sidlaw hills
May 9. fnowing; thermometer about 48^ all May; all
fummer below 60^ except a day or two. The harveft dry
till the 9th of Odober, and wheat and barley partly in ;
on the 9th of Oftober a flood, wind S. £. ; on lOth, ano-
ther flood; barometer about 29^; rain continued to the
i8thy wind S. £. ; barometer 29! ; thermometer 50^. Oc-
tober 23, 24. dry, high wind, S. W.; barometer 28{; ta-
king in the corn ; the ears of the uncut oaU fprung, (land-
ing upright in the fields.
Pbenomenon.^^n^ night I obferved in the air a long
narrow flripe of a whitilh cloud, one end of which was near
me ; its pofition was horizontal. The end next to me« as it
advanced, became more red, bent into a curve ; then re«
volved upon itfelf with a very quick fpiral motion, and
the appearance of intenfe fire ; and though it was quite
calm where I flood,* the phenomenon was attended with the
found
S^S SotttJUcat AccoulU
tend of a whirlwiod, which I would h%fz pcfrcnvcd it ^6
have beai» had it been daj^^Iighc, and a dond of daft to
make it vifible.
Artificial Apptatanct^'^ bdiev^ much of die mrakzi-
tion of the Aurora Borealis proceeds from itflefiioo in the
•tmofphere. One night I perceived the atmofphere iUn-
mined in cpiick focccffion of red flalhes, like die Amm/ra^ to
^n angle of 20^ or 30^ elevation, and found it was done
bj boys, burning pob-tow, about a mile dilhuit» and' that
the fuoceffive corrufcadons of the atmofphere were ooca*
fioncd b J the tollings of the tow.
ConjeBuri*^-^! have fomedmcs, in very deat nights, per-
ceived the SGlky-wajr to be a great circle in the heavens*
pafling near Aquila, Cygnas, Sirius ; and I find it goes
through the fouchem hemifphere in the fame circle conn^
nued. Its plane, therefore, *is a plane which pafles through
the centre of the earth. The conjedure I have founded on
this is, that the Milky-way exhibits to us the pofidon of the
univerfe, which is a plane (of Imall comparative thiduieis)
lying in the pofitton of the Milky-way. What fiipports
diis conjefture is, that the (mall motion which the fan has
among the fixed ftars, is, in this plane, towards Aqaila»
Difiajis inciiini to Wbtat^-^rt the black and mS. The
black is the moft hurtful* The covering of the grain is en-
tire, btit within it b all black powder, which afterwards
blackens, and hurts the found wheat. If yon pull up a
blacked fialk, all the ftalks that rife with it from the fame
root are blacked like wife. It' is moft common in ndny
lummers ; no eSedual remedy is found. Potatoes ate fome-
timei liable to the Icab or cttrl, efpecially. if the ground be
poor<
of Bendathy. 367
poor, tod they be burned wifji the fif mqer'^ dnmgbt. Ift
ifeems to proceed from animals * fcniping the fl^fn, w)i9^
they can get nothing elfe to live on.
Difiafes inciifent to Children '-•zrtt^ t^ht fm^-po^ eUlk
cooghy meafles. The ague, formerly frequent here, ii now
ieUom known. It feems to have arifen from colds, and
working too early in the meming to avoid the heat of tlie
day. There are fome fevers that are epidemical. & end
(bme are infedious to thole of the iame Uood and fimily,
bat not to others.
Siormoni. — ^The StonBont Loch, at the cpi^et of tliie
jttrilb, has been thought by fome to give name to the du
ftrift of Stormont, which lies between that place and Dun*
keld. But the word Stour fignifying a fight or battle, (fi^e
Johnfon's Diftionary on the word), that name feems rat^
to have arifen from the Stormont having been the field of
battk t between Agricola and Galgacus in the Si^th year of
th^
# The qiiiefpilliuri are Ibipetuiia lu^^ Thcvdf
mils I fpctk of begin at the leaves next the root of the biiih» and cat evcijp
kaf aa they proceed, fraduaily up to tlie top ; and when tlie bufli u madf
bare, tliey defcend, and begin at the bofli next adjacent, proceedinf firon
botUHS to top in the ftme manner. To faye the bnlbeir make a lope of
tinfy, aboot the grofiieis of pne'i arm, and lay, one npon the gnmnd, ■!
the root of each bulh, fo as to epcompais ^ ftalk of the buih complrtdf,
f ts ImcU is oifen&ve to the animals, add prevents them &om afccadaii^
Prohaffm ijt,
t The account, which was tranAnitted to the editor hereof fofneyeaif
a^o, of this parilh, and of the traces of the above event in the Stormont,
having been loft or miflaid, and the clergy more ifunediately conceme4
having concurred in the opinions therein fuggefted, it will be. tumeceflar|^
(pj me to do more than glance on,a few leading points, and to tompare tb(
^i4ory of Tacifns wyth the a|>ptiianccs, and both thefe with the account of
568 Statiftical Account
Chriftian sera. Of this battle there are traces at Maofe er
•Maws, on die road from the church of Bendochj to the
chapel at Perfj.
* SoeAiios, which came to dsy hand and knowledge, after I had fonierly
*<rMiiJnitted to tha editor hereaf the fnbftance of what fbUowi.
TacJtiis, in the life of Agrioola, £iy»» that Agriccda **. ad montem Gn-
'*. pUmi pervenit, qtiem jam hoftes inredmnt;*' accrued at Moont GximpBH,
where tlic Britons had already fat down ; which muft be fome place on tk
fide of the Grampian moantains, where they rife from Strathmore. Tbat it
was beyond the eflaary of the Tay, may be meant by the words of Agikoh
on the occafion, ** txanfifie cftuaria.** It was within the psovinoeof CheHfr
rcfti, the boandary or '* finis** of which extended to the ihore and the fleet,
(" deduxitexercitum in fines Horeftorum ;**) from which he letonied sgaa
through the territory of the newly conquered people : this cannot accord
.with any other placetban Angni, and part of Perthdnie, eaftward of tk
The Buzzart Dikes on G«rTydnims» in the parifli of Kinbcfa, (kiB;
earthen dikes of 8 or 10 feet high, inclofing great part of a fqnare piik),
we take to be the place of Monnt Gramptus where the Britons hid alrodf
bt down, ** quern jam hoftes toiederant,'* and which contitned the " bets
" pneda vidtoribus.** This place is near the mmitli, aiy) the appeanocnof
the field of aAion, and it is four miles N. from the Roman camp at Mickk-
hour. As the camp flood on the grounds of the Horeiti, the latter pan 0:
the word Micklehour is the word a^ied at by Tacitus. The Roman cvop
of Micklehonr is formed by the confluence of Tay and IStt ; it fbitcbs
two miles along the Tay, two miles along the Ifla, and two miles and i
half along the dike that inclofes it. ; It contains a prtetorium on the fi&
next the lila. The above-mentioned dike is called Cleaven Dike, (tibat is,
the dike of the fork or confluence) ; a mile and a half of it is fHll ffcuxiisg
towards the Tay. There is a draught of it in Stobie*s snap of Fothibiie;
but it cannot be traced within half a mile of the pnetorium ; the oop
ftretches it oat too far on the end next the pfsetorium. The Tay had vx-
merly ran nearer the W. end of the dike than it does at prefdiL Ckava
Dike is ao feet broad at prefent, and about 5 feet high, and has been maot
out of two parallel trenches that arejao yards from the dike on tbe oppo£te
fides of it. Cleaven Dike has openings at the W. end, and the middle, isr
the egrefs and ingrefs of an army. The camp has a finall exploratory for-
tification within it, on the top of an eminence. It lies in the pariib of Ca-
puth. Cleaven Dike is the *< vallum" of Tacitus. Hb exprcffion vouli
not be accurate, but in 9 cafe like this, where there is only one line of dike
tfBendotby. 369
to Ac cunp. The Roman legioiu, lie fays, were dnwn np <' pro vallo,*'
before the Taillam of Cletven Dike, at fuch diftance behind the battle, that -
they could be of no immediate fervice there; and therefore, upon feeing
the number of the enemy, many advifed to bring up the legions, " plcrique
•< admonebant arceflendas legiones." A mile and a half weft from Midde-
hour is another Roman camp at Inchtuthill, a proud in£h or illand within
the high flood-mark of the Tay ; and which the watch-place (or trencher
called i3bt Steed's Sulls, in the parifli t»f Chmy), was intended to orerloek i
The faid trenches, 8 in number, fit to hold and conceal loo horfes, being in
a ftiaight Jiae between Buzzart Dikes and InchtuthiU. Another watch-
place on the fame eminence overlooks the camp at Micklehour.
The Stour-mtntt or main battle, happened in the heart of tlie Stormont;
upon afcending ground, in the pariflies of Kinloch, Cluny, and Blairgowrie*
at the places called. Cairns, Upper Balcairn, Nether Balcairn, Cairnbutts,
and Craig Roman, on the fide of the Grampian ridge, between 3 and 4 milet
N. from Micklehour, (Cairn being a common name given to aitificial col-
lemons of ftones and earth laid over the dead). The afoent b interfedled
by many finguli^r ridges, or drums, that run parallel to the bafe of the
mountain ; theiie are the *' colles** noticed by Tacitus, *« erigere in coUes aciem
** coepere." The Garrydnims, on whichche Caledonian campof Buzzart Dikes
lies, are very fingular ground, being feveral high and narrow ridges or
drums, (of which the farmer that occupies them obferved as follows, ** Gtn-
** tlemen that eome to iee this place fay, that they never faw the like of
** them in any country.**) Thefe drams are mentioned by Tadtus in the
words following : *' Britanni, qui adhuc pugnae ezpertes fonuna colUum
** infedeiant, degredi paulatim et circumire terga vincentium coeperant.**
The Here Cairns of Gormak, below, and immediately contiguous, lying
<lofe together, about 80 in number, and about 15 feet each by 5 in height,
mark the conteft that followed; *' quantoque ferocius accurierant, tanto
**■ acrius pulfos in fugam disjeciflet.*'
The Aight i» (till to be traced by numerous tomuli, through Maws, in the
parifh of Blairgowrie* along the track that lies between the mofs of Cocfa-
ridge on the W. and the river Eroch on the E. ; ** graode et atroz fpe^cu-
** lam,-TCorpora, et laceri artus, et cruenu humus.** The Great Cairn of
Mavfs lies in this tradl, not far from ihe woody banks of the Eroch : ** Ini
'* virtufque vidlis ; poftquam filvis appropinquanint *, colledli, primoscir-
" cumvxnicbant." This cairn is 17 yards broad, and about four ibet high.
It
* Wbtn m troubUfome per/on ab/tazns from figbting, upon finding that
l>c is like to meet vnth bit mqfter, the fight itfcid to be " let sube/pr let
" 9^,liketbefigU£fMawt."
Vol. XIX. 3 A
370 Statijlical Accwni
It was opened, in the centfe, by the writer heicof, and fimnd to contain hu-
man teeth found, and a great quantity o/ human bones much reduced, which
were mixed with charcoal, and lodged among lo6re earth, hairing under-
gone the fire, which contributes to the prefcmtion both of the bones lad
charcoal. This is the grave of the 340 Romans who fell. The Bcitons loft
10,000. I found burned bones alfo in a fmall tumulus adjacent.
Compare what has been above (aid with the words of fioethins tbe hif-
torian. '* Romani ad Taum baud procul a Calcdonis caftro (Dnnkeldea)
** confedere. Tulinam, ne Romanis dediu, ilUs refugium foiet, coocre-
** marunt (Btitanni), Locum Inchtuthil noftra aetas vocat, coojuges ft
*< onmem rem pecuariam, in Grampium tranilulerunt nDOotem. Fa<^a
<* confenfu, eo devenere, ut imminenti hyeme, pncUis abftenerentnr, et pro-
** hiberent, ne Pi^orum agros, cis Taum, Romani occuparent. Secandum
** hsBc Galdus (Scotorum Rex) AthoUana hyemavit, Pi^ns vera ct Giido
'* munitionibus, quse tum in Horeftia erant, baud procul a Xao, hfttaam
'• tramegcre. Sequente sedate, Agricola ligneum pontem in caftris fecit,
•* eo Tao fiuvio ftrato, univerfum Romanum eseicitum tranfpomtuB, id
-• campo^ baud procul a Grampii montis radicibus deduxit. Perculit rd
** fama Pi<5lomm copias, qui proximis villts et munitionibus kycmabant, at
** Galdum periculi facerent certiorem. Caldus, cum exercitn, Gninpio
f* monte fuperato, in vallem dcveniens, Pi^orum, Noruegonun, Danorum-
** que copiis eft adjondlus, loco baud procul a Romano exerdtn di^rcrib,
*< Atrox pugna donee fera nox. Multa prodigia in Albione, antequin
** Galdus cum Romanis pugnam iniret. Natum Tulinae monftrum.*'
On the year following, be fays, *' Romani nodhi Tulinam adicre, inde
*^ pontem, quem Tao, proximo anno, impofuerant, dirueiunt.'*
Concerning his authority he fays, " £x quibus banc hifboriam coU^.
' noftrae ^entis peculiariter Veremundus Archidiaconus S. Andrew, u-
rione Hifpanus, qui ab exordio hiftoriam, ufque ad Malcolmi 10. tern-
pora cui opus dicavit, contexuit, (A. D. 1066) ; Turgotus, CampbcUcs
** quos tres, ex lona infula, ad nos comportU)dos curavimns.*' And in
another place, *' Veremundi rude vetuftate hiftoria, abund^ omnia coa-
•* ple^ens, quem authorem fumus infequuti."
It is unnecelTury to obferve on the above, that Boethius means diat Afri-
cola fought Galgacus in the Stormint, near Inchtothill, and the eaft baak
of the Tay. It is a pity tliat Veremund (hould be loft. Hb book nuj
perhaps yet exift in the library of Aberdeen College, of which fioethnis
was Principal. More refpe^ is due to Boethius, as, an hifiorian, than is
commonly granted to him. They are his fa(fb, and not his prodigies, or
opinions of the day, by which we are to acquit or condemn an hiftorian.
Mr Cant, the editor of Adamfon*s old poem, in his notes thereon, bcfides
leaking fcveral curious obfervatioos and difcoveries on Roman antiquities,
wentioa
ofBendotby. 37 1
omtioiis the fcene near Blairgowrie as the moil likely place where AgrU
cob foaght Galgacns : FubliOied A. D. 1774, at Perth.
Fmgal, the hero of O0Ian, is mentioned by Boethhis, and his dme con.
jedured to be about the departure of the Romans from Britain. ' *< Conji-
** ciuDt quidem in hsec tempora Finanum filium Coeli (Fyn Maccoul, vol-
** gari ▼ocabalo) virum, uti ferunt immani datura, Scotict fanguinis vena-
'* toria arte infignem.*' Compare with this Mr Bank$*s defcription of the
ifland of Staffa, and a celebrated cave there. ** We aiked the name of it ;
** the Ca^e of Fiuhn, faid our guide. What is Fiuhn ? faid we. Fiuhn
** Maccool, replied he, whom the tranflator of Offian*s works has called
** FingaL How fortunate, that in this cave we Ihould meet with the re-
** membraoce of that chief, whofe exiftence, as well as the whole epic
** poem, is almoit doubted in England !**
I was fo imprefied with the records of Boethius having a foundation in
fad, that I fought for Fmgal, and found him there ; but was fomewhat dif-
appointed to find, that Boethius knew more of him than he chofe to tell ;
for he aifo is among the crowd of infidels, conceming the marvellous
achievements of that hero.
NUM-
57 1 Stati/lical Acco
NUMBER XVL
PARISH OF tannadice;
(County of Forfar, Stnod of Ahous anb Mearks^
Presbttert of Forfar).
By John Jamiesov, D. D. Forfar.
Hatnty Situation^ lie,
OnH£RE is no evidence that the name of thb parifli has
-^ been changed. The more ancient orthography is
Vannadys or Tannadyfi, This name is moft probablj of
Gaelic origin.
It needs fcarcelj to be obferved, that this pariih is fitn-
ated in the county of Forfar, in the prefbytery of For&r,
and in the fynod of Angus and Mearns. It extends about
twelve Englifli miles from £. to W. s in fome places it is
eight or ten miles broad \ but, at an average, about foor*
It is bounded by the pariih of Cortachie on the W. ; bj
Outhlaw and Aberlemno on the S. *, by Fern and Carrald-
ftone on the £. ; and by Fern and Lethnot on the N.
The
•f Tannadice. ^ 373
The greateft part of the ground is hilly or mountainous.
The foil, in the lower parts of the parifli, is in general ^ood.
It is more inclined to claj than fand, except on the brink
of the river £lk. The air is dry, pretty (harp in winter,
bat in general wholeforoe. In former times the ague
prevailed much, efpecially in one diftridt, called the Glea
of OgiL But now the cafe is otherwife. The mod com«
mon diilemper is the low nervous fever, which may indeed
be confidered as the charaderiftic diflemper of this county.
Twenty or thirty years ago, what is commonly called the
louping ague greatly prevailed. This difeafe, in its fymp-
toms, has a coofiderable refemblance to St Vitus' s dance*
Thofe afieded with it, when in a paroxyfm, often leap or
fpring in a very furprifing manner, whence the difeafe has
derived its vulgar name. They frequently leap from the
floor to what, in cottages, are called the baulks^ or thofe
beams by which the rafters are joined together. Some-
times they fpring from one to another with the agility of a
cat, or whirl round one of them with a motion refembling
the fly of a jack. At other times they run, with aftoniih-
ing velocity, to fome particular place out of doors, which
they have fixed on in their minds before, and perhaps men-
tioned to thofe in company with them, and then drop down
quite exhaufted. It b faid, that the clattering of tongs, or
any noife of a fimilar kind, will bring on the fit. This
melancholy diforder ftill makes its appearance ; but it is
far from being fo common as formerly. Some confider it
as entirely a nervous affeftion ; others as the effeft of worms.
In various inftances, the latter opinion has been confirmed
by fads.
There are feveral mineral fprings within the bounds of
this parifli, but none of any confequence. It contains no
lake. But the want is apnply fupplied by the beautiful
South Eflc, which in fome places forms the boundary of the
pariih,
374 Statifiical Accouni
parilliy and in othets runs through it \ mnd by die limpid
Noran, a dream which feeks its waj from the hiOs to £ik
over a very clear and pebbly bed. The name of £lk is
common to a number of rivers in Britain ; and the reafoB
is obvious, as it literally fignifies water; bemg the Celtic
word Uifc or Ifc^ with very' little variation. The manoer
in which the people of this country generally fpeak of the
North Elk evidently refpcfb the meaning of the name;
for they call it the North Water. It b at leaft highly
probable that South £(k may be viewed as a daffical river,
as the Aejica of the Romans. In the Itinerary of Richard
of Cirencefteri ad Aeficam is mentioned as one of the Ro-
man ftations in the province of Vefpafiana ; and it is mark-
ed as twenty-three miles diftant from ad Taoym^ or one of
their ftations on Tay. Now, although there are remains
of a Roman camp at Kethick, near North Efk, the diftanoe
does not anfwer ; whereas there is a Roman camp at Battle-
dikes, on the other iide of the river from Tannadice *•
The banks of Eik prefent a variety of delightful and ro-
mantic fcenes. By far the greater part of this pariih lies
on the north iide of the river. Here many falmon and (ea-
trout ufed to be catched ; but of late years their number is
much diminiflied. This is greatly owing to the height of
the dam-dikes erefted further down the river. It is alfo a
general complaint with thofe who are fond of fifliing, that,
where there are cruives^ no regard is paid to the old equi*
table law concerning the Saturday's Sloppe.
Here, a good number of years ago, a confiderable fi(hing
was carried on in Eik for the frelh water oyfter, in order to
procure pearls. Some of thefe were fo valuable, that L. 4
have been given for one at the firft market. One was got
nearly
* Thb ctmp is dercribed in No. 35 of the Bibliotheca Topognphica
Britaiuuca ; and in Cough's edition of Gaiabden*9 Britannia.
ofTannadice. 375
nearly as large as the ball of a pocket piftol. Thej were
generally bought up, from thofe who filhed for them, by
people from Brechin ; and it is faid that this trade turned
out to good account to fome individuals engaged in it.
More than twenty years ago it was given up , fome fay^
that there was not the fame demand for the pearls as for-
merly* It is aflerted, however, that the fliells were nearly
exhanfied, by reafon of the great number of hands employ-
ed in colle&ing them.
The only remarkable mountain in this pariih is St Ar-
nold's feat ; on the top of which there is a large cairn. The
hills are covered with heath, but are not rocky. The pa*
ri(h exhibits no appearances which may be called volcanic,
in the common fenfe of the term. But one natural pheno-
menon deferves to be mentioned. Near the eallern extre-
mity of the parifli is a fpot of ground, commonly caUed,
the DeiTs Hows^ 1. e. the DeviFs Hollows, It ha9 received
this name from its being fuppofed that the devil has here
given fome remarkable difplays of his prefence and power.
It is a fmall hollow, furrounded with moorilh ground. At
different tiroes, within the memory of fome alive, pieces of
earth, of 150 or 160 (tones weight, have been thrown out
from the adjoining ground, without any vifible caufe^
Upon examining the. fpot, however, and digging to the
depth of a foot and a half, or two feet, there appears a
firatum of a yellowiih colour, mixed with fmall ftones,
thoroughly impregnated in the ikmt manner. At firft it
feemed that the occafional eruptions might be partly owing
to fome fulphureous fubftance confined here. But in con-
(equence of fubjeSing one of the (tones to a chemical pro-
ce(s, it appears to contain no fulphur, nothing but argilla-
ceous earth and iron. When calcined, the fubftance forms
a good red ochre. I have been informed by one who has
tciided many years in the neighbourhood, that fuch erup-
tioni
37^ Statijlical Account
tions have taken place in this fpot three or four times with-
in his recoUeflioDy at the diftance of twelve or fixteen jears
from each other.
I have heard of no figured flone but one, which -was
lately found in the foundation of an old hoafe ; the back
of which houfe formed part of the wall of the church- jard.
It exhibits the figure of a man, verj rudely cut, with his
head uncovered, and having a loofe garment, like a High-
land plaid^ thrown over his Ihoulders. With the one hand
he lajs hold of the mouth of an animal, which has been
thought to be a lion, but has more appearance of a wild
boar. With the other, he brandifbes a fword or dagger,
with which he threatens deftru&ion to his prej. There
has been an infcription over the head of this figure, as
would feem, in Saxon charaders. But only two or three
of thefe are now difcemible; as the ftone has not onljr been
broken into two pieces, but has been otherwife mutilated,
hj the unfparing hands of fome workmen employed to
repair the wail. It is not improbable, that this might be
an ancient grave-done.
la a rock, at the weftem extremity of the pariih, exafUy
on the north fide of the bridge of Cortachie, a very coarfe
kind of marble is found, in fmall veins. Not far (irotn this,
in the parifli of Cortachie, is a rock, the ftones found in
which, f/om the defcription given of them, fcem to rcfem-
ble quartz. They have fomewhat the appearance of gold,
mod probably in confequence of metallic impregnation;
whence the rock itfelf is called the Golden Craig^ The pa-
rifh of Tannadice abounds with free-done and moor-fione.
The large ftones found in the field in detached pieces, arc
here generally called outliers^ to diftinguidi them from
thofe found in beds. There is alfo abundance of the ftonc
vulgarly called fcurdicy the fame which is commonly known
bjr the name of vohin in the wedern parts of Scotland, and
ufed
ofTattnadice. 377
ofed for paving ftreets. A bed of this kind of ftone is faid
to extend to this parifli, from the Milntown of Mather, a
place in the county of Kincardine, between Montrofe and
John's-haven. Slate, of the grej kind> is foond in the Glen
of Ogil.
Inundations are not frequent here. About twentj years
ago, however, all the houfes in the farm-town of Jufting*
haugh were fwept away by an inundation of the river £&.
Since that time a good deal of money has been expended in
this quarter, in forming what are called beads^ or angular
banks of ftone, for keeping off the water on the north fide
of the river*
This parilh boafts of no remarkable quadrupeds. The land
is infefted with foxes, and the water with otters. Roes
fometimes come down from the hills, and lodge in the
woods; they are very common in the higher parts of the
parilh. There even the red deer abound. Befides par-
tridge, groufe, the fieldfare, and other common birds, they
have one called the ofwald^ or nfwat^ very much refembling
a blackbird. This, I fuppofe, is what the Englifli call the
otf/^4 and defcribe as the very fame with the blackbird.
What b here called the ofwald, however, paffes for a dif-
ferent fpecies. Various birds of paffage make their ap-
pearance here, as wild geefe» fwallows, lapwings, woodcocks^
dottreb, &c.
Many cattle are bred in this parilh. They arc of an or-
dinary fixe. An ox fully grown often weighs 40 or 50
ftones.
By reafofi of the parilh being vacant, no exaft account of
the population can be obtained. By Dr Webfter's account
in X7S5, it amounted to 1470. Fifty or fixty years ago
there were 400 communicants ; now there arc generally
between 500 and 600. At an average, there are annually
15 births, and 8 or 9 deaths. In the year 1794, however.
Vol. XIX. 3 » 3©
^yi SiatifticalAccwnt
30 died. This was not the confequeAoe of any partknlar
dilteroper ; but this jear proved fatal to a number of oM
people. AnouaUy there are about ao marriages. None
have died, for a confiderable time paft, who have exceeded
86 years of age. But there is one perfon living in the p»>
riih, who is above 90.
As far as I can learn, the only Difleaters are a few of
the Epifcopalian communion. The parifli includes about
106 farms, but net the lame number of farmers^ as fome of
them poiTefs more than one farm. There has, it is iaid»
been, of late years, a decrcafe as to population, in cooie-
quence of the converfion of fmall farms into larger, and
the removal of a number of cottagers from their poilef-
fions. None, indeed, have been under the.neceffitj of
leaving the parilh for want of employment. Tbofe who
have left it have generally done fo from the caaies already
mentioned, whence they have been obliged to remove into
towns. It is fuppoFed, that there may be about aoo plooghs
in the parifli. In the lower part of it, they are generally
fuch as are drawn by two horfes. In the higher, four are
nfed. The ploughs are moftly of the new conftruQioo,
with iron. heads, and what are called metal boards. There
are at leaft between 200 and 300 carts. The bed arable
land is let at L. t, or L, x, is.; inferior* at from 5 s. to
15 s.per acre. From what has been already faid, with re-
fytGt to the converfion of fmall into large farms^ it muft be
evident that the nnmber pf farms is dinfiiniflring.
There is not much ground inclofed with (lone fences.
The farmers, indeed, are univerliiUy. convinced of the ad-
vantages arifing from proper ioclofures. But. they are un-
willing to fubmit to the expcnce ) and fome, even to pay
the intereft of the money which the proprietors might ex-
pend for this porpofe* The old plw of inolofing with
csrtheci
of^unnadice. 379
earthen fences is g^trerallj given up, except for proteQiiig
yonng trees.
Not above one lidf *of the land k laboured. The reft
confifts of mountains, mcrors, and plantations. The parifli
not only generally fuppliesitfetf with proviiions, but fpares
a confiderable overplus to other places. In the years 1782
and 1783 thete was lefs fcarcity than during laft winter.
The fapply 6f meal, given by Government anno 1783, for
allifting thofe parilhes which were ftraitened for provifions,
was found unneceflary here. Notwidifianding the general
fcarcity this year, little grain has been imported into the
parifli.
No hemp is raifed here. But a confiderable quantity of
ground is employed in the culture of flax. Although this
of ntc^ffity varies, it is fuppofed that, at an average, there
may be 4c or 50 acres annually fown with flax-feed. With*
in the memory of fome flill living, no grais-feeds of any
kind were fown. Now, a great deal of land is laid out in
this manner.
A fmall quantity of marl was found, fome years ago, in
a pit on the farm of Deirachie. But it was all expended
on that farm. Very little lime is ufed, becaufe of the
great length of carriage \ but a good deal of marl, which is
brought from the Loch' of Kinordie, in the parifli of Kirry-
muir. Some of the ground is s^xj produAive. This year,
in a haugh on the eflate of John Ogilvy, Efq; of Infliavan,
I counted 2 1 (talks of oats growing from one root, the moft
of thefc from 5 feet 8 inches, to 6 feet high, and fome of
them carrying between 140 and 150 grains each.
A confiderable part of the parifli is employed in paflore.
The hills aflbrd excellent pafturc for flieep. Wedders are
fometimes brought down from the Glen of Ogil in the
month of Auguft, which weigh lo lb. j^rr quarter, and give
to lb. of tallow.
Tenpcnce
380 Stattjlkal Account
Teopence or i s. with meat, is the ordinarj wages for %
dajr-labourer in hoibandrj, whether mak or femak. i s. is
the ufual wages daring harveft. A miJe-fervant 10 hnf* ,
bandry, befides board, receives L. 10 or L. X2 per jtn ; a
female, between L.4 and L. 5. Few carpenters, mafoos,
£{£. regularly labour in this pariih. A tailor works for
10 d« a-day, with meat. The people are in general verj
induftrious. There are a few weavers, fome of whom are
employed in the Ofnabnrgh trade; hot the generality in
what is called cou ry work^ for the u£e of families. There
has been a great alteration in drels within the laft twenty
years. It is now far more ezpenfive than formerly. A
great many articles of drefs are bought, which people nfed
(Q manufafhire for themfelves.
The fuel ufed in the higher parts of the pariih confifis of
peat and turf \ in the lower, of coals, furze, and broom.
The greateft difadvantage under which this pariih labours,
(he lowe< part of it at leaft, is the want of fuel. Coals moft
be brought from Montrofe or Arbroath, both about twenty
miles diftant.
The roads are gfeatly improved of late. This year,
L* 105 have been expended in making and repairing pri«
vate roads, leading to the turnpike-road newly formed be-
tween Forfar and Brechin, part of which lies in this pariih.
The general opinion is in favour of the turnpike roads.
The prices of provifion correfpond to thofe of the neigh*
bouring pariihes. Butter, this year, (1796), feUs at x%. per
lb. The price of cheefe is from j s. to 6 s. 8 d. per flooe,
according to the quality.
The broad Scotch is the only language fpoken here. Some
pf the names of places are of Gaelic, and others of Gothic
origin \ although the former feems to abound mdBL To
this clals the following evidently belong : Coul^ Memust or'
MmUt Ogil^ Kinaliiff BaUt^ciie^ BalgiUof ^uiecit Caim^
of Tannadice. 381
Imjbtnan^ Aehhuehrit* Injbavan is {aid to fignify tbt ifland
fitrrounded with water, Befides the evident taatology of
fach a defignation, there is no reafen to fuppofe that it was
ever defcriptive of the fituation of the place. The mean-
ing given to Acblouebrie^ which, it is faid» means the cow*
haugb^ is .more natural, as it correfponds to the local fitua^
tioQ ; for a confiderable part of the grounds, which receive
thu name, lies low on the border of £lk. Barthyaris^
yufiing-bau^i Wbitewall^ &c- are evidently Gothic. Murt-
baOittmA to acknowledge the fame origin.
The real rent of the pariih is between I1.3000 and
L.4000 Sterling. There are thirteen heritors, three of
whom 00I7 are refident. The valued rent is divided in
the following proportions, in Scotch money :
Cairn, Newmiln, and Quarriehill, L. 256 0
0
Whitewall,
X4J 0
0
Infhewan and Eafler Memus,
533 6
0
Wcfter Ogil,
700 0
0
Coul, the property of Mr Ogilvyof Iflabank,
12x7 10
•
Findoorie,
567 10
0
Glenquiech,
zoo 0'
0
Forfechy, and the Miln of Cortachie,
230 13
4
Ncthertown of Balgillo and^Muirtown,
180 0
0
Wefter Memus,
166 13
4
Balgillo,
166 13
4
Eafter Ogilj
300 0
0
Kinaltie, . . ,
282 12
7
I- 4845 19 3
The patronage of this pariih belongs to {St Mary's Col-
lege St Andrews. One of the Popes made a grant of the
lands of Tannadice, for the erefiion of this College \ but in
what year I have not been able to learn. In a leifini da-
ted
381 Statifticdl Account
t«d anno 1614, thej are defigned ^be tcete/tajlicai ffmds of
^nmtaiyfi. The tithes are fill eKhaufted. Thr old ftipeod
cotffifted of onc-third of the Talae of the tithes, amoinN
tffg ^ YCC3 merks Scotch, with 100 for providing ele-
ments. The ftipend has been \ntelj augmeiKed to L. xoo
Sterling, exclufive of the glebe.
The oldefl regrfler extant reaches no fartber back than to
the year 1693. Mr George Lyon, who ieems 'to have been
Epifcopaiian miniUer iiere for manj years, was allowed to
continue till the year 1715 ; when, on account of the ftxte
of public matters, many minifters of this perfuafion, who
had been fbrmerly fuffered to keep pofiti&on of the parifti
ohurchesi and to enjoy the liviags, were turned out. He
was fucceeded by a Preibyterian ininifter of the name of
Oliphant; and he, anno 1724, by Mr John OgihFie, for-
merly mloiiter of Cortachie and Clova, Mr John Weath
was fixed here, anno 1743 ; and was fucceeded by Mr John
Bulk, anno 1767. He died in March lad. The church b
prefently vacant. During Mr Weath's incumbency both
the church and manfe were repaired. The church is fup-
pofed to be pretty old ) but it is not known when it was
built.
Eleven or twelve perfons ufually receive alms. The
contributions for the relief of the poor annually araoont to
about L. 30. A fmall fund, which produces L. i per year,
was Lft, for their benefit, by Mr Ramfay of Kinaltie.
This parifli furniflies very little to plcafe the taftc of an
anti^iiary. On the north fide of £fk, very near the pl<ice
where the bridge of Sheaihill now (lands, foriperly flood
the caftle of Quiech, the refidence of the Earls of Buchan,
who, in ancient limes, had an extenfive property in this
county. The fituation is romantic; and was (till more
atlaptcd for being the feat of a feudal chieftain, by the fecu-
rity
o/Tannadice. 383
rity which it' promlfed, than by its plcafantncfs. The
caftle was baik on a precipitous rock, immediately oveiu
hanging the river. This rock appears as if infalated fay na<^
tare. A ftream pours down through a deep chafm on each
fide of ih Thtt9 it fcarcely required any artificial means of
defence. Ni> vefttges- of this ancient cafUe are now dif-
cemible. A humble cottage occupies its place. Within
thefe few years, part of one of the walls of the chapel was
(landing. It was neatly built with hewn (lones. But they
have been lately carried ofi, and applied fpme other way.
A hill, in the neighbourhood of Achlouchrie, receives
the name of tb^ CaJllebilL Like the fite of the cafile of
Qniech, it overhangs the river, which here runs in a deep
bed, by reafon of the high rocks on either llde. A foiTe,
ftill twelve feet deep and thirty wide, forms a femicircle
round this hill. This, it is fuppofed, had been dug with a
defign to bring in water from the river for defending the
place. It would fecm, however, that there never has been
any building here» as there are no marks of foundations.
Near the village of Tannadice, there is a place called the
Caftie of Barnyards, According to the tradition of the
country, a gentleman of the name of Lindfay began to ereA
a caille here ; but having killed the proprietor of Finhaven,
in a quarrel, near this place, was obliged to fly. Thus, it is
faid, the building was never finiihed. Within thefe few
jears, fevcral of the vaults were fianding; and fomeof the
walls, from five to feven feet in height. But the ftones
have been employed for building on the farm. Some cen-
turies ago, great part of this county was in the poflefBon
of the Lindfays, whofe chief, the Earl of Crawford, had his
refidence at Findhaven, a little way from this, on the other
fide of the river. The Lindfays, formerly of Glenquiech,
pretended to be the proper heirs of the lands of Barnyards.
3 There
384 Statijlical Account
There are vmrious Laws in this parifli ; as theLftWof Bal-
gilloy the Law of Balduckie, the Law of Cool, and fevcol
•thers.
About twenty years ago, a confiderable nomber of coins,
both gold and filver, were found at BalgiUo. fiat it is
not known to what countryi or to what age, they be-
longed.
NUM-
tf^otbiemay. 385
NUMBER XVII.
PARISH OF ROTHIEMAY,
(^CouKTT or Banff, Synod of MoraYi Presbytery
or Strathbogie).
By the Rev. Mr Ja^es Simmie.
Situation^ i^c.
THE parifli of Rothicmaj is bounded, on the E. and
N. E. by the parifli of Marnoch ; on the S. and S. E.
b J Inverkeithnie, Forgue, and Huntlj ; on the W. and
S. W. by Cairny ; on the N* and N. W. by Grange. Its
greateft length is from 7 to 8 miles ; its greateft breadth
from 5 to 6.
The northern part of this parifli is inferior to the reff»
both in fertility and beauty. Befide fome hilly ground,
and fome plantations of fir, it confifts of a large plain, con-
taining partly arable, partly paflure-ground, and an exten*
five mob that fupplies with fuel, not only the parifliioners.
Vol. XIX. 3 C but
3 S5 Statijiical Accmnt
but, in a great meafure, the town oF Huntly *, wbich is
diftant about 6 miles. From this plain is a gentle declivi-
ty of more than half a mile, on the W. and S. W. to die
Ifla, and, on the S. to the Devoran ; a river adorned widi
plantations and natural woods on its banks, and aboonding
with common trout, eel, and falmon. About a mile be*
low its confluence with the Ifla, the Devoran, mnniog eaft«
ward, divides the pariih into two parts, of which the nordi-'
em follows the courfe of the river more than two miles^
the ibuthern near two miles farther. At this point, where
the Devoran begins to divide the parifli, and on its nordi-
ern bank, are the Milltown, a fmall village containing
about an hundred fouls } the houfe of Rothiemayf ; the
church and manfe ; and a bappy mixture of well-indofed
fields
^ * When the parifhionen carry peats out of the paxidi, they do fo claih
dsftinely, or merely by indulgence of their landlords, — not by ftipuUtiM
and right. It is much to be wifhed, that both they, and others whom tbcj
lupply with peats, would ufe fewer peats, and more coal and wood, not
only becaufe, in wet feafons, peats are a very uncertain fuel, but beeanie
the preparation of them confumes much of their time, which oight be
more profitably devoted to various agricultural improvements.
t There is a tradition here, that the unfortunate Mary, Qnecn of Scos*
paired a nig^t in this hou(e» and her bed-room is ftill pointed ooS. T>»
Uadit^on is conQrmed by the authority of Buchanan, who, ddcribir^
Mary's journey to Invemefs, fays, " Proxima nox ad Hothrmaittm, A^(-
" netkioritm ^ittam, fatis tranquiUi tranfaOa ejk .•" Ifift. Rer. Scot
tib. 17. cap. 36. Tbe Abcmethies here mcotio^ed were L^cds Abcr-
ni-thies, a^r>vards of Saltoo. The tngkal fate of one pf Uwm is ctk-
hrated in a popular ballad, called Frennet-haU. Next to the Abemethki,
a family of Gordons were proprietors of Rothiemay till the end of lail (X
the beginning of this century, when it was purchali^ by Opivie* whoie
foQ (afterwards 0/ Inchm.artin in Ferthflu^) fold it to WBliam Lord
Biaco, father of tlie prefent Earl of Fife. The moft a&ciept part of the
lioufe, which was going fafl to ruin, his l^rdfliip has lateljr taken down.
and has repaired and fumithed the red in a manner which docs faoooor :•
histaae.
of Kothtemay. 3S 7
fields and woods; which, whh woods and corn-fields oil
the oppofite.llde of the river, rifing, by a gradual afccnt, to
a great height, forAi a beautiful rural fcenery, equalled by
few, and perhaps excelled by none, of equal extent, in the
kingdom.
5oi7, Produce^ Rent. — Plantations and natural woods oc-
cupy a confiderable part of this parifh. They confift
chiefly of fir, birch, aifa, elm, and aller *, which, in confe-
qaence of the fcarcity of thefe in moft of the neighbouring
parifhes, are fold at high prices, and bring the proprietors
from L« 100 to L. 200 a*year. And it may be prefumed^i
<hat, fome years hence, they will bring much more, as
many of them, efpecially firs, now young and thriving, will
Chen be ready for fale -, and as the proprietors not only fup«
ply from their nurferies the places of thofe they fell, but
are carrying this kind of improvement iliU farther, by
planting fuch parts of their efiates as are lefs fit for culti-
vation or pafiure.
The pafture bears only a fmall proportion to the arable
land of the parifh. It is fuch, however, as renders it pro-
fitable for fome farmers to rear a few flieep, and all a few
black cattle, for the market.
The foil, in general, is rich and fertile. It produces ex-
cellent oats, bear, peafe, and lint, the common crops of the
parilh ; and in fuch abundance, that large quantities, parti-
cularly of oats, oatmeal, and bear, are exported annually.
A great part of the bear finds a good market at difiilleries
in the neighbouring pariihes. Part of it| as well as oats
and
• Befide thcfc, u a grctt variety of excellent larch, oak, beech, Sec.
particularly on the property of the Earl of Fife, whofe example io pLanting,
and cHhcr improvemeots is well entitled to the imitation of other proprie-
tors. Some old afli, belonging to his LonUtiip, are of an uncommon fi2f ,
neafuring, in dlamete r, four feet.
388 Stati/iical Jccount
and oatmeal, is parchafed, by commiffion, for merchants b
other parts of the kingdom, and ihSpped at Portfby, which
is la, Banfl^ which is 15, or Macduff, which is 16 miles
diihnt.
Mod farms are fmall, onlj five or fix being rented above
L. 4O1 of wluch one is rented at L. no, another at L. 140.
Few leafes exceed 19 years. Crajfums are in ufe. Per*
fonal fervice * and harveft-labour are no longer exafied.
Of late, a great part of vidual-rents were converted into
money at the rate of X2 9* 6 d. a boll \ and multure-rent,
formerly every thirteenth peck, is now 3s. 6d. for every
pound of farm-rent, Converfions not lels favooiahle in
their confcquences to tlie progreis of agriculture, than to
the immediate iotereft of the farmer. The miller's fee
(which ren^ains to be converted into money) is every eigh-
teenth peck. Af^ridions to particular mills prevail here,
as in pther part? of Scotland ; and thp grain of one of the
beft di(lri£h of the pari(h is aftriScd to a mill in a neigh-
bouring pariih, and belonging to a different proprietor.
Would it be any difadvantage to fociety, if mill-aflridicos
of every kind being aboUflied by a juft compenfadon, every
one were at liberty to choofe his miller, as well as his
fmith, his carpenter, or any other mechanic ?
The valued rent of the pariih is L. 3170 Scotch. The
whole pariih is the Earl of Fife's, except about a tend;
part, the property of Major Alexander Duff of Mayeo.
His Lordfliip occafionally vifits his property here. Major
Duff f conftantly refides in the parifli*
* AdvatUagUi
^ By perfenal fir^ice, m different from harreft-Uboiir, xs^tneant, gw^
on errands, and the like. The fervice of carrying the huidlord*s meii to
the (here is (lili retained ; nor, indeed, could it be conveniently difpeni'ed
with, where vidliuil-rents are paid, ,and efpeciaUy where the landlord does
not refide.
I The Major, befide fome very laudable improvements of his eftate by
planting and iuclofingi has lately built an eWant and commodious houie.
qf Rotblemay. 3S9
Advantages^ \Sc. — Our chief advantage, refpefting agri.
cultore, is the neameis of lime. In the ileighbouring pa«i
riih of Grange, it is bought at the quarry for \\ d. ; at die
kihi for 8 d. and fometimes 7 d. a boll *, The abundance
of peat here induces mod farmers to buy it at the quarry,
and enables fome of them, befide fupplying themfelves, to
bring a profit by .retail. There «re about 50 lime-kilos in
the pariih.
To this advantage I wifh I could add good roads ; but
the proper method of making and repairing thefe is not
even underftood here. Inftead of ufing for this purpofe
that abundance of metal and gravel which nature has fup-
plied, the ftatute-labour is employed in throwing on the
middle of the roads the contents of the ditches on their
fides, which, being clay or foft earth, fo far from impro-
ving them, (unleis, perhaps, during the heat of fummer),
generally makes them worfe than before. Though inclo-
fing is far advanced in this, compared with neighbouring
pariflies, flill thefe is much room for this kind of improve-
ment : A proof, among others, that a great part of our
land has not yet reached half its value. Nor has draining
by any means obtained that degree of ^attention, which a
great part of our land evidently requires, though to this
kind of improvement its natural fituation is, in general,
very favourable f .
Population^ ISc, — The number of inhabitants is 11 25 ; of
whom, 481 are males, 644 females. In 1755 it was iigo.
The average of marriages for the laft 10 years is 10 ; that
of births, for the fame period, 19 \ of deaths there is no re-
gifter.
Of
f The boU of lime here conlifts of i fiilots only.
f The mode of fannin;;, and tie prices of the various kinds of provifioo9«
ire Uie lame here as in tl«c neighbonring parilbes.
390 Statifiical Auwni
or the iahabitaats 1067 are of the EAaUUhed Caiiirdi ;
a$ are EpiicopBli«is \ %j Seoeden ; end 6 RoHmiq Cidio-
Iks. The oecttpadons 6£ part of theony wHh cHhtr partiett-
bra which Ihew the ftate of die parifli, will appear from the
ioUowieg table :
Ciergjman,
Tailors, -
6
Schoolmaficr,
Shopkeepers,
7
Mafons,
Innkeepers,
3
Dikerf,
Butdiers^
a
Wrights*
10
Meal-mills,
1
Turnerst
Meal-millers,
3
Coopers,
LioMhill,
I
Sa&iths,
Lint-millers,
3
Slaters,
Wauk-milk,
a
Fhz-dreflkrsy
Ferry^KMts,
a
Weavers,
27
Horfes,
. 260
Dyers,
3
Sheep,
500
Shoemakers,
13
Blackroattky
iao8
All the men who are not tradefmen and mechanics, are
empfojed in agricultare ; and tradefmen and nccfaaaics,
who are honfekeepera, likewife cultivate a few acrea Sor
the accommodation of their families. The women, when*
tbey are not employed in the mols in fummer, or the 6M
in harveft, fometimes knit flockings, but commonly fpin
linen-yarn for the merchant, who buys it. By comnaiffion,
for the manufafhirer in Glafgow, Paifley, or foae other
difiant part of the kingdom. Bcfide maintenance, a fvm^
fervant's yeariy wages are from L. 7 to L« 9 ; a maid^fer-
vantls L. 2, xo s. or L. 3. A day-labourer's wages vary
with the kind of his labour *, vis. for mols-labour, a man"^
8d. a woman's 6d« with viAnak; for harveft-labonr, a
man's 10 d, a woman's 6 d. with vidoals ; for hay-couing,
XS.J
pfRotbieamy. 39X
IS.; and for commoa labour, fach as delving, 9d. without
vidoab. A mafon's day's wages are is. 6 d 1 a wright'i,
1 1. both wilifaout vifioals ; a tailor's^ 8 d. with ▼iOuals ; m
piker's work is hired by the piece. By fpinniog linen-
yam, a woman earns 3) d. at moft 4 d. a-day ! A poor pit-
tance, indeed! and till manufaQares be eftablilhed here,
(a thing more to he defired than expeded)« there is little
reafon to hope that female Uboar will find a better, at kaA
an adequate reward.
Cburcb^ School^ 6t.-- The pari(h-cburch, built about 40
jears ago, is commodious and well lighted. The Earl of
Fife is patron. By a late decree of the Court of Teinds^
the minifier's ftipend is '' 106 boUs 3 firlots of vidual, half
^ meal half bear, and L. 533 : 6 : 8 Scotch, with \^ 60
^ money forefaid for furnifliiDg the conimunion-elements/'
The fchoolmafler's falary, which is aoo merks Scotch*,
and the fchool-fees, with precenter's and feifion-clerk's fees
and perquifices, do not exceed L. 20 or L. ai a-year. The
parochial
0 TiH widiin thcfe two ^ean, it was only loo meilD Scotdi. The Utt
Rer. Mr Bmcc of ]>iinbtr, who received the principles of his education at
this fcbool» gcneroofly propofeil to augment it by a donation of L. loo Ster-
ling. 00 tU foUowiag terms: \P, That the hcritofs fliould become tniifcees
of his donationt paying to t^e ichooimafter tlie legal intereft of at ; aad«
a4{Kf 'T^^^ tlvey ihould augment the falaiy to the maximtm, or aoo merks
Scotch: Though the beritort complied with thefe terms as foon as propo-
fed* and though afterwards Mr Bruce, u^foaafd of this, piomiied that his
donatioo (hould U forthcomng at a time mentioned, yet* not long afieo
be dicdf without having fiilfiUed his benevolent puipoic, and (lb far as I
bavc yet bren able to difcover) without leaving the fulfilment of it in truft
to bis heiis or teftamenury csecutors. It is hoped* however, that fnffirieni
ipoocbei^ of his puipofe and promiie being produced, his heirs (who are
happily In fuQcieot circumftances) will, from due refpedt to his memory,
cOeem hlf will, refpe^ing this matter, as facred as if it 1»ad been aipreffitd
with aU tb« ciccumlUnccs of legal fotmality.
3JP Statiftieal Account
parodiial poor (34 * at an average of the laft twelve jeirr)
are aflifted from the Intereft of L. 160, the rents of one of
the church-galleries, the weekly coUedioiiSy fines ia£ mif-
demeaoors, £cc. \ the whole forming a jearlj fimd of L. 25
or I* %6 Sterling.
Antiquity^ an Eminent Ci&ara^rr .—Ahont a furlong
north from the hoafe of Rothiemaj is a Dnudical temple,
which, though fituated in the middle of a beautiful and fer-
tile field, a veneration for antiquit j has hitherto prefcrved
entire. Mr James FerguiTon, well known, among men of
fcience, for his publication on aftronomj, was a native of
this pariih f .
CharaBtr. — The inhabitants are, in perfon, .flendcr ra-
ther than robuft \ in mind, acute and fenfible. Thej ex-
cel their forefathers lefs in the luxuries of the table than
elegance of dreis *, are generally very healthj ; and live
manj
• In 1783 and 17841 the nnmber of poor was 45. In 1785, tibe Idrk-
feiBon expended L. 70 of the poor's fund in purchafiog foreign gnia.
f To certify this, it may be proper to fabjoin, that my infonnadoo of
Mr Fcrgu(1bn*s being a native of this pariih I feceived from his brolhcr.
John Ferguflbn, who was an elder of this pariih, and died very lately. He
told me, that his father^s name was John Ferguflbn, his mother's Elipet
Lobban; that they dwelt at the Core of Mayen; that both he and his bro-
ther James were bom there ; that he himfelf was bom in 1708 ; and that
his brother James was two years younger. Accordingly the feflion-record,
which is now before me, confirms this information in every particnUr.
James Ferguflbn was bom April 45. 1710.
I do not recoiled every particular related in the Memoirs of Mr Fergnf-
fon, prefixed to his works, not having fecn them for feveral^ years; bnt
John, his brother, who had read thefe Memoirs, faid, that, diough generally
agreeable to faA, they were not equally corredl fai every particular.
of Rotbiemdy. 39}
knmy oi them 80, and fome 90, yetrt. Devoted to agri-
bolture and the mechanical arts, they are very little bdined
either to a military of a iea-faring life; They are fober
and induftrioiu, refpedfol to fuperiors, obedient to the laws,
charitable to the poor, and praAife, among themfelves,
the virtues of integrity and friendfhlp. Of the form of
godlineb tkey are itnOlj obfervaht ; and jfaftice, as well
as candour, forbids me to believe that they are defiitnte of
its power.
%
VoL.XIXi 3D NUM.
394 Staii/tical Accmnt
NUMBER XVin.
PARISH OF ORPHIR,
(COUMTT A»n StKOD OF OnKMET, PuSBTTZaT OF
Cai&stoh.}
By tie Riv. Mr Udddt^ Mimfier.
Ori^ of the Name.
ORPHIRt or, according to the Icelandic hifioriaas. Jar-
Jior^ is componnded of the Norwegian words,/ofA
land, and^or, fire. This etymology is the nnore probable,
as the parifli of Orphir ferves the neighbouring towns di
Kirkwall and Stromneis with a fpecies of peats, diftingnilb-
ed by the name oiyar/o^ that b, fire-Iand| or earth fit fcr
burning. And to the prefent day, there is a houfe ac4
diftriA called Tarfon from its neighboiuhood to a large mc&
•f this dcfcriptioiu
SituiUhn
ofOrpbir. 395
Skuatiott and Eximt. — This p^i(h k flmated ia the
county and fynod of Orkney, and in the preftytery of Caar-
fton, and makes a part of the ifle of Pomona, commonly
caUed Mainland, from its being the largeft of the Orkney
iflands.
It is bovnded on the N. W. and N. by the p^riihea of
Stemea and Firth, from which it is divided by a range of
lofty hills i by the parifli of Kirkwall on the N. £* ; and
oo the £• S. and W. by the Orkney Mediterranean, gene-
rally known by the name of Scalpa Flow.
It is abont eight Englifli miles long, and from two to
three miles in breadth ; lying along the fea-(hore, nearly
in the direfiion of N. £, and S. W. and enjoys a fine ex-
pofure.
Xhe face of the pariih is diverfified with hills and dales
through which many rivulets flow. The foil^ in a few
places near the coafi* is a rich loam, mixed with llone%
and tolerably ferdle } but, in general, it ii day or mo&i or
a mixture of both ; and when well manured, though but
indiflBcrently cultivated, is more than fnfficient to maintain
the inhabitants.
The upper part of the pariih, except a few fmaU hxwMt
near a lake, called the Loch of Kirbifter, is hilly, and
chiefly covered with heaCh, intermixed with coarfe graft,
and wdl adapted for the breeding of flieep and fmall cattle.
The lower part, toward the S. £• S. and W. and extending
about a mile firom the hills to the fea-fliore, ii in general
plain, and beautifully diverfified with corn-fields, meadows,
and green paftnre. The eaftem diftriA is interfperfed ^th
rifing grounds, oovered with heath, and large peat-mofles^
which fhmifli the inhabitants with fuel, and enable them
to fttpply the neighbouring town of Kirkwall.
C/imatt,
39(^ Stad/Ucal AceowH
CSmnii^'^fom the fimatioii of diefe iflands, in « nonb-
em htimde, and farroanded by the occtn^ the diiea&s in-
^dent to a cold and damp dimate might natnrallj he ex-
peAed ; hot the reverfe happens. The agoe is not known
here, and icorbntic complaints fcldom Occor ; owing* pcr-
hapty to the abapilance of fiiel» to the frequent ufe of v^e-
tables, and of malt liquor; and above all, to the faluhnoos
tBa-breezes, which cool the air in {nmmier» and coontenA
the frofis in winter, and render the climate, upon die whole,
more temperate, than in many places of a more footherlj
latitude upon the continent. The imall-poz was mncb
dreaded h^e previous to the 1757, when inocuIatioD wis
mtrodooed, and has ever fince been attended with uooom-
mon fucceb. Confumptions are not frequent. The noU
prevalent difiempers are fevers, which frequently prove
fatal, efpedally' in years of fterility. Rheninarifins have
become more f^quent of late years, owing, it is fappofed,
to the fobftitotioo' of the linen fliirt for the woolcsi Waifi-
coat, formerly worn by the coipmon people.
Mineral S^ug$~'9it to be met with in erery dtfirifiof
the parifli. £nt the one moft in vogue is the water of
Scoridale, which has been fiioious for time immemorial, aod
as fuppofed to cure all difeafes. It, like all the otben,* is of
the chalybeate kind, without any mixture of fnlpbur. It
is of a diuretic and antUcorbotic quality, and helps to pro-
mote digeftion.
Lakest Coq/lst I/Umis^ amd Fi/birisu^^T^trc are in this
parifli feveral fmall rivulets, but only one lake, calkd the
Loch of Kirbifier. It is between two and three miles in
circumferenccl^ and is well ftored with fea*troQt of .an ex-
cellent quality. The fidl from this lake is very confider-
$bltf knd turns one of the fineft mills in the country. Here
was
p/Orpbir. 397
>Fas fbrmerljr a waukmtUy but it was fuffered to go info d&-
pay, after the introdadion of the linen manufadure. There
are two other mills in the parifli, which go under the naotiQ
of Dubmills. Thefe are of no ufe in the fummer feafon.
The fea-coaft forms a circuitooa coorfe of about ii miles,
^qd is finely indented with bays and creeks, where Teflclt
. may anchor ; one of them in particular, called the Bay o£
Houton, is proteAed by an ifland at the entrance, and forms
a fefe harbour for imall veflels. The fliore, except in the
bays, is in general bold, confiding of rocks of from 40 to j«
feet high \ and compofed partly of whin, but chiefly eC
freeflone. The water, within a gua-fliot of the ihare, is
from 12 to 20 fathom deep.
Scalpa i'Vbui."— The £ea oppofite to this coaft is a moft
beautiful piece of water, being a fmall mediterranean, of
about 50 miles in circumference. It is furrounded with
\% diflferent iilands, through which are feveral outlets to the
Bentland Firth, and German and Atlantic Oceans. Thia«
particularly in time of war, is the great thoroughfare for
fiiips coming north about. It abounds with iafe roadfleads
and fine harbours *, fuch as Holm Sound, Floxa Sound, St
Mar^raret's Houp, I'an Houp, and Long Honp in the Ifland
of Walls ; where there is good anchorage, and a fuflicient
depth of water for the largeft fliip in the Britifli navy. The
principal entrance to Scalpa Flow, is through Holm Sound
on the £• and Hoynveuth on the W. ; near which fiands
the village of Stromaefs, a (ea-port, too well known to need
defcription here, and poilefied, for its fize, of one of the
lincft natural harbours in the world.
Two miles diftant from tl*- foutbmoft part of Orphir
lies the ifland of Cava, a mile long, and about a quarter^
a mile broad. There are only three families in the ifland,
^fitting at prefent of 19 perfons. The foil is a mixture
6i clay and mod, which, as they have plenty of lea-wqfc»
^ - leldom
398 StatiJHcal Account
feldom fiiik to produce a good crop. Befidet 9 horfei lad
x6 cows ix^ith their calves, they .have a few rabbits, and
peats in abundance. The few inhabitants frequent the ps*
rilh churchy and are very regular in their attendance opoo
divine worihip. There is a ruinous chapel in the iflandi
round which is a church-yardi where they formerly u&d to
bury their dead.
In this fequeftered fpot» feemingly pointed out by nature
as a place for religious retirement, in the memory of people
now alive, have been committed two rapes and one mur«
den The murder is faid to have happened in Celf-defeiiGe.
The rapes were committed by Gow the pirate's people,
who cajrried off two young women from the ifland ; sod
after keeping them for fome days aboard their (hip, re-
turned them to their friends, loaded with pielenti; and
they both foon afterwards got hufbands.
There is another finall ifland in this parilli, fit only for
flieep*pafture, called the Hobn of Houton ^ a name general*
ly given to fmall uninhabited iflands
About a mile £• from the ifland of Cava lies a rock, or
ikerry, well known to feamen, called the Barrel of Hotter ;
here was formerly a feal-fifliery, for which the neighbour-
ing furmer paid the proprietor a barrel of oil yearly, natil
the frequency of fliipping feared them from the rock ; then
the proprietor, determined not to lofe his rent, converted
the tack-duty into a barrel of butter ; which is ftill paid by
the tenant, and thence the rock is frid to derive its name.
Its ancient name was Carlin Skerry.
The principal fifliery on the coaft of Orphir is the dog-
fiihory, which, for the time it lafls, is highly beoeficiat.
Thefe fifii arrive, in fucceffive flioals, about the time of
new and foil moon, and are obferved to travel weflwardi.
They make their appearance about the middle of June, aad
fontinue for a few days only at a time, until die end of
Augufii
^ Offbir. 399
Aiigiift. They «e ttken wiAin hilf a mile of the ihort,
inborn %o to 30 fiathons wMler, ivhh a common hoiid-Iiiie
of half a crown vBlne. One man will fometiaes catch fif«
teen ficore in a day. Thej yield a great deal of oil ; and
when cured and finoaked, axe thought to refemble kipper.
Thdt Talue, per hundred, may amount, at an average, to
5 s. There are in this filhery about 24 boats employed,
with 4 or 5 men in each. When the dog-6fliiog faib,
which fometimes happens, the people are in the utmoft dif-
trefi for want of oil} which then ri&sfrom 6d« or 8d«^
Scotdi pint, to x s. or even is. 6 d. During the reft of
the year, they feldom catch any thing but a fioudl fifh call-
ed keiths or fiUocks. Thefe fiih (moaked, together with
the fiUocks, conftitute a great part of the food of the inha*
bitants.
Scalpa Flow abounds with many other kinds of filb,
fttdi ts fcate, flounders, haddocks, mackrel,and occafionally
berringi. But the inhabitants are fo much employed in
making of kelp, which is the great article of Orkney com-
merce, that they have not leifure to attend to this fiihery.
The common kinds of fhelLfiih are alfo to be found here^
fuch as lobfters, partans, fpouts and cockles ; there are like-
*wife a few feals, and otters, whofe flcins are valuable.
Sometimes, too, the £mall whales, called the bottle-nofed,
make their appearance on this coaft, and when embayed,
are furrounded with boats, and forced on ihore#
There are no fewer than fifteen fmacks employed through^*
out the feafon, in fifliing and carrying lobfieis to the Lon-
don market, all of which rendezvous in one or other of
the harbours of Scalpa Flow. . This filhery u confidered as
very beneficial to the inhabitants of the adjacent coaft, who
are chiefly employed in catching the lobfters, and receive
from 1 d. to ifd. per piece. The boats fitted out for this
purpofe meafure xa.£eet of keel, and together with the nets,
coft
400 Staij/licai 2fcc6uki
coft nbotu L. 6; Tb^re au% two nien in each hatti wb6
will cleaTi at an average, L.7 Sterling a-piece» durin;
the fiOung-feafony which, including that of the fpring and
batvellj does not laft abotre fix months in the year.
Aj^.— Of this atticle, about 50 tons, at an average, tre
inanufaAured, and exported yearly; The moft expert
kelp-burners in Orkney are fuppofed to belong to this pa-
rifli ; the confequence of which is, that they are uiiiverfallj
employed. One &rmer in -particular^ Nicol Slettar in
Yarfo, by his fuperior Ikill in furveying» and fixing with
|irecifion the value of (bores, has delerved well of his
conntry, having thereby confidencbly augmented the in-
cdm'e c(f many 6f the proprietors. This man, by dint of
experience alone, and natural fagacity, without the aid of
edhcation, n^ill afeertain^ with aftonifiiing exadneis, the
greateft quadtity of kelp to be produced from any diftrift
of fiiores, which he is employed to ftfrvey ; biit^ like moft
men of merit, he has been poorly rewarded.
Of this great flaple of Orkney commerce,* much might
.be faid : But, as the fubjeA has been already anticipated ra
former Statiflical Accounts, the author of the prefent re-
port would only wifli to add, for the fake of his countrj-
men; and upon the authority of the firft manufadurcr in
NewCafile ; ** That, excepting barilla, which is fometimcs
not to be purchafed for any money, the bed crown glais
cannot be made without a certain proportion of Orkney
kelp ; and that, if the proprietors would be at the pains to
prep^te this article in the bed manner, artd to* preferve It
pure and nnadultetated^ the price it would bring at market
is fcarce'credrble;
The tang, or fea-weed, which grows oh this and the
neighbouring coaib, is found to be fit for burning only once
in three years ; whereas, in the ifland o^ Sanday, and fonfe
o£
ofOrphir. 401
of the fmaller iflands, the fame kind of fea-weed is burnt
yearly. This is generally afcribed to their proximity to
the ocean, and the rapidity of the tides ; but, as there are
many iimilar fituations, from which the fame effefi is not
produced, it is more reafonable to afcribe this phenomenon^
either to the peculiar nature of the rocks on which thefe
weeds grow ; or, with greater probability, to the fitnation
and foil of thofe iflands, which are fo narrow, flat, and fan-
dy, as hardly ever to attrad a cloud, or produce the ftnalleft
rivulet from one end to the other ; by which means the
fea-weed, being preferved from frelh-watcr, which is its
greateft enemy, is permitted to grow in its utmoft perfec-
tion*
TRdiSf Bayst Headlands^ and Wneis. — ^The tide, at its en-
trance into Scalpa Flow, is uncommonly rapid *, but it |^a«
dually fubfides, until it becomes fcarce perceptible. The
conrie of tbe flood, with a little variation, is from W. to E.
There is one part of the coaft, adjacent to the houfe of Mr
Hooyman of Graraa&y, where the current, intercepted by
a reef of rocks, runs 9 honra in one direfiion, and 3 in the
oppofite.
Tbe principal nefles and headlands are Voenels, Toi-
neb, Bemort, and Houton-head. The bays are, Waukmill
Bay, SmugroBay, and the Bay of Houton, all of them
fronting the S. and S. £. ; in each of which, particularly
the laft, fmall veflels may anchor with {afety.
Only two ihipwrecks have happened here in the me*
mory of any peribn now alive. The one happened about
30 years ago, upon the rocks of Hobbifler, where the vefiel
went to pieces, but the people were faved. The other ia
fpring I793f 00 the fand af the Waukmill Bay, where by
unloading a part of the cargo, which confifled chiefly of
iiaz, the vefiel was got ofl^, without receiving any confider-
Vol. XIX. 3£ able
40Z Statiftical Account
able 'damage ; upon which occafion, much to the honour of
the inhabitants, every afliftance was given, and not a fingle
head of flax amifling.
Hills. — ^The principal hill in this parifli is about 700
feet high. It is called the Wart Hill, as is erroneoufly fup-
pofedy from a fmall hillock raifed on the top of it by Mr
Murdoch Mackenzie, when he furveyed thefe iflands. Thi$
gentleman, who is ftill alive, is 9l native of Orkney; and
the firft who brought furveying to that degree of accuracy
which it has of late attained. Sir Robert Strange, the late
famous engraver, was alfo a native of this country ; and,
as he told the prefent incumbent, pafled fome of the hap-
pieft days of his youth in this parifli ; which, after all his
travels through France and Italy, he could not help ad-
miring for the natural beauty of its fcenery. Such is the
f weet remembrance of youth ! And yet this paniaUty is
not altogether without foundation. For from the top of
a hill, at the foot of Which, on a rifing ground, flands the
manfe of Orphir, are to be feen, at one view, 25 iflaods
and 23 parifhes, including moil of the Orkney iflands, and
part of the ifland of Great Britain, with an eztenfive view
of the Atlantic And Germanic Oceans, together with that
truly fttblime objeA, the (iupenduous mountain of H07,
waflied on one fide by the Pentland Firth, and on the other
by the Orkney Mediterranean, which is as beautiful a piece
of water as any county in Scotland can boaft of^ and much
frequented by fliipping. The Lord Advocate of Scotland,
upon a late vifit to thefe iflands, arriving at this enchanted
Ipot, from whence he firft beheld the Atlantic Ocean, ia
Ijaid to have exclaimed with ecftacy, ** Happy is the clcr-
'< gyman who inhabits yonder manfionS'* '* And fliU
<' happier would he be,' • faid the clergyman, '* would his
^' Lordfliip help him to an augmentation of flipend." For
without
9f Orpbir. 403
withoiU tbce, fweet Competence ! great Nature argues all
iu vain ; and all is Chaos dark again.
la former timesi when thefe iflands were in£efted bj pi«
ntes» fires were kindled on the tops of the higheft hills, and
ferved to give warning to the inhabitants of the number
and approach of the enemy ; and as the people appointed
to attend thofe light-houfes were to obferve and repeat the
fignalsy from the fmaller hills and headlands near the coaft^
thence, from the Norfe word. Warder^ to watch, or look
out, thej got the name of Ward, or Wart Hills ; for this
appellation is not peculiar to Orkney, but is to be found in
other parts of Scotland, where the Norwegians reCded*
Mr Hume, the hiftorian, in his account of the Marquis
of Montrofe's expedition, is pleafed to call the Orkney
men, an unwarlike race of men *. But, had he confulted the
Icelandick hifiorians^ he would have learned, that '* of old,
in theie iflands, when the trumpet founded to battle* when
the fliell of war was heard through the land, when the fig-
nal fires were kindled on the hills, in an inftant the young
men of Orkney flew to arms, and aflemBled round their
chiefs, determined to conquer or die. Their wives and
their parents, inftead of keeping them back from the com«
bat, helped them on with th<ir armour, and prepared them
for the baitle." — ^Thofe v;ho diftinguilhed themfelves by
their valour, were rewarded at their return with the fmiles
and the charms of the fair ;— of the fair^naids of Orkney !
for Orkney has always been diflinguiihed for beautiful wo«
men. Then no woman of beauty, of family, of fortune, or
of virtue, would deign to give her hand to the youth who
had either declined or fled from the combat. For well
tliey knew, that None but the brave dtfervt the fair. Such,
of old, were the men of Orkney, and the ladies too, what-
ever information Mr Hume may have received to the con-
trary.
• Perhapi the hiftorian meant^ more accnftomed to naval than miUtai7
expUiti,
404 Statiftical Account
trtrj. And for the hardineis and braveiy of the fietaai of
tlie prefenc daj, about acoo of wkom have flept facmwA to
ferve their couotrj, in almoft everj war fince the Haaov«-
riaa facceffion, his Rojal Highnela Prince WilBam, the km.
of our gracious Sovereign, can vouch.
F^jffils* — ^There are here a few flates, of an inferior qoi-
litjy and fome excellent flags. Abundance of iroQ ore b
found Ijing on the furface of the ground, bnt no attempt
has been made to dig op anj. Blue ftone, fit for building,
and alfo freefione, are to be had in great abundance. There
is a curious vein of the latter fort in Houton-head, adjacent
to the fea, of about ao feet in height, and xoo, or upwards
in breadth, and confifting of a variety of coloors, fbme
white, fome yellow, fome green, and fome of a jet bhck,
and fbmetimes of all of thefe colours beautifully Ueaded
together. A fmall fragment of this rock was lately pre-
feoted to an eminent (eal-cutter in Edinburgh, who pro-
nounced it to be very valuable, and admirably adapted for
finiihing fide boards, or the ornamental parts of chimaejs,
provided it could be found hard enough to admit of m po-
lilh. For the fample prefented to him, as well as all the
outward furface of this vein, is fo foft and brittle, as to yield
to the flighted impreillon : But, if quarrymen were cm-
ployed to penetrate the rock to a fuflicient depth, it might
be dtfco^«red to be adapted for many of the purpoiies to
which the fined marble is applied.
Some coal-done, fuch as is met with near the fiirfac^e of
coal-mines, has been difcovcred* among the rocks of Wauk-
miii Bay, the property of Mr Uonyman of Graem&y ^ bnt
110 trial has been made of it. Some very fine white and
blue clay is dug up, beneath the flood-mark in Sraugro
Bay, commonly ulcij for colouring chiameys and heaxtb-
fiOBCS.
efOrpJnr.
40s
j^gadrupidtf Birdtf (^tf.^— All the different forts of qua-
dmpeds and birds, wbidi are to be met with in the othet*
pariihes of this conntry, are alfo to be found here, the bird
called die lyre excepted, which is peculiar to the high rocka
of Walls and H07, and the Redhead of Eday. It is ^e-
siarked of the ifland of Cava, and of fome other Imdl
iflands, that neither rat nor moole will live in them.
Statifiical 7aUe oftbi Pariflf ofOrphir amdlfiamdofCmim.
ropolatJMi wafi X755»
]>itto I79S>
DccreaiCf
Ktunber of males,
y ■ lemftifftf
Perfoosbdow 10 jcanof age, 916
Sstf
366
FiDOi 10 to ao.
Above 10, unimRied,
Widows and widowen.
Married peHbni,
Hoafes inhabited,
Baptifms from 1714 to X7ft3,
]>ttto from 1758 to X747»
Ditto from 1760 to 1769,
Ditto from 17S6 to 1995,
Average /cr ammm lor tb
yean.
i«4
XftO
40
145
300
•77
964
tbole40
»74
74
8a
ifiromt7i4to 1713,
Ditto from 1738 to 1747,
Ditto from 1760 to 1769,
Ditto from 1786 to 1795,
Average^ tamum for thofe 40
year^ - 7
Ho regifter of buriaU bai been kept.
The biitbs are to the populaaon
as • « I to 30
The mairiagcsto ditto, u x to 118
The inhabited honfeft, at i to 5^
The batcbelon to married
men ind widowers, is i to 3
CHiiMren to families, as 3 to x
Servants and tndwellen as ][ to x
Proprietors refiding, • %
Dttfeo non^refiding, - 6
Clergyman, • x
S€iMoinaaen» ^ • %
Farmers of one pUrngb going,
Ditto of two ditto.
Crofters and cottagers,
Wrights. -
Sboanakeis^
Weavers,
Taibrs,
Mafons, .
Smitb,
Miners,
Merchant fetaikr.
Piper,
Fidlen
3
4*
5
S
I
3
X
r
2
X
Fidlen,
Tackefalltxidci,
lliis lait is die kirk-officer, wb»
fervesthe pariih in the diflfierent
capacities of beadle, fezton, coo-
per. Hater, piafterer, boa^beater,
gardener, kelper, maibn, quarry-
man,<« labourer, thatcher, and far-
mer, and the moft fortunate b«.
{[etter of boys of any in the pariih,
or bis wife borr him 3 at one
birth, and moft of his children are
boys.
Very fisw m thb parifli exceed the
age of 80, and only one perfon has
been known to arrive at 90 yean.
Number of horics.
Ditto of cattle.
Ditto of (beep.
Ditto of fwtne.
Ditto of ploughs,
Ditto of carts,
Diuo of boats.
380
885
4o#
435
xoa
i
33
Heie
4o6 Stati/ikai Account
Here are no Secedera nor Diflenters of anjr kind.—
Three filicides have been committed within thefe few
jears : One by a young woman, after a long fit of deep
melancholy, from what can& is not known ; another hy vk
elderly woman, during a lownels of fpirits, occafioned by a
lingering fever ; and the third by a young man, in the
height of a nervoos fever. Hanging was the death diofe
unfortunate perfons made choice of.
Emigration.F-^^lhxij young men emigrate from hence
yearly ; fome as failors on board merchant veflels, who ge-
nerally land in the King's feryice atUaft \ although they ab-
hor the idea of being prciTed in their own country. Others^
and the greateft number, enter into the fervice of the Hod-
fon's Bay Company; and, ioftead of oilering an honoor-
able fervice to their King and country, or fiaying at home
to cultivate their lands, and proted their wives, their chil-
dren, and their parents, for the fum of L. 6 per annum^ hire
themfelves out for (laves in a favage land, where, in the
language of Scripture, they are literally employed as hew-
ers of wood and drawers of water ; cr, what is a ftill more
difllnguiihing badge of flavery, in dragging along large
loads of timber, yoked in the team, like beads of burden.
My God ! Shall man, formed in the image of his Creator,
defert the human fpecies; and, for the paltry fum of L.6
a-year, aflixme the manners and the habits of the brutes
that perifli. Fy be on the man, who would rather be the
flave of a Company of private merchants, than enter into
the fleets and armies of Great Britain, and bravely fight
for his King and country, our religion, our liberties, and
our laws. Many of thofe men, at their return, after 8 or
10 3'ears exile, bring home with them all the vices, with-
out any of the virtues of favages \ indolence, diiBp^on, ir-
religion, and at the fame time a broken conftitution \ and
the
ofOrphir. 407
the misfortune is, that having earned a little money, (for,
after a five years refidence, their wages are augmented),
they are enabled to overbid the honeft indufirious farmer,
ivh6 is incumbered with a number of fmall children, and
who perhaps may have fallen into 9, temporary arrear,
upon whom the unfeeling landlord has no companion. But^
behold the confequence ! in a few years, from ignorance
and want of induflry, the emigrant, in bis turn, is alfo re*
duced to poverty, and mud give way to another of his own
tribe. By thefe means, moft of the &rms are over-rented;
and this fluctuating ftate of things puts an efTe&ual bar to all
improvement, and furely calls aloud for reformation from
every virtuous landholder. There are at prefent, from ttus
parilh alone, in this infernal fettlement, 43 of our prime
young men ; and 12 more arc jud upon tlie eve of embark*
ing : This, added to the number of feamen abroad, fcarce
leaves hands to cultivate the ground, and mnft foonee or
later depopulate the country. By thofe means there are
no fpare hands for manufadures ; and the fifhery, which,
u^%X, to the kelp, ougtit to 1>e the great ftaple of Orkney
commerce, is entirely abandoned ^ and befides, the King's
fervice is deprived of many hardy feamen ; for the moment
war is proclaimed, for fear of being prcfled, they ikulk
away to this diflant fettlement. At the fame time it muft
l?e acknowledged, for the honour of the Hudfon's Bay Com-
pany, that no men ever aded with more integrity* or ful-
filled their agreements more honeftly, than thofe gentle-
men have uniformly done ; and further, upon a reprefenta^
tion from the prefent incumbent of diis parilh, they have
been pleafed to augment the wages to L. lo ; by which
means above L. 1000 Sterling per annum is added to the in-
come of Orkney.
Jl^ricvitun.
4o8 Stati/iical Account
jtgricuhttre.^-^TiitTt mrc emplojed in tillage too Ork-
aej ploughs, and two Higfalsmd ones. The latter were xo-
trodnced by Patrick Hooyman of Gnemfay ; who alfo in«
clofed hb farm with good ftone dikes« It is the commoa
Scotch plough, with two ftilts. The former is of « Tcry
fingular conftruftioOi having only one ftOt, a (mall pciintc^
fock, with a coulter, refembling a kail gnlly ; and inficad
of a mould-board, two fticks fiUlened to the head of the
plough, in a horizontal diredion, which, inftead of levelling
the fward, ferves only to break it into pieces, leaving one
half of the furface nntnmed down. This plough, wfaidi is
very light, is drawn by three horfes a-breaft, with the a£-
fiftanee of a driver, who goes before, and puDs them on by
a halter, faftened to the midmoft horfe; the plougbmaa
carries in his right hand a fmall ftick, called a pattle, with
which he clears the plough ; it alfo ferves him oocafionally
as f fecond fiilt, when he wants to take more earth ; and
every now and then, when the horfes are lazy, he dirows
it at them, to quicken their pace. The furrow made by
this plough is feldom above three inches deep, and thrown
offinaflanting diredion. The harrows, which axe alfo
finall and light, are of an oblong form, and generally with
wooden teeth, and are drawn fide foremoft: There is a
horfe and a driver for each harrow.
The only crops raifed here are fmall black oats, fown in
April ; and bear, or big, fown in May. The harveft ge-
nerally begins about the end of Anguft, and is over about
the middle of Ofiober. A few potatoes are cultivated
upon every farm. There is plenty of bog*hay ; and, of
late, attempts have been made to introduce olover and rye-
grab ; but nothing can be done in this way, without fiiffi-
oient indofures.
The manure chiefly made ufe of is dung from die cattle,
piixed up with aihes and turf, and fometimes n little lea*
<if Orpbir. 4t>9
ware. Very good marl has been difcovered, bat little nfe
has been made of it. There can hardlj be faid to be any
rotation of crops, the fame fields having been fown, for
time immemorial, wiih bear and oats alternately, and lel«
dom yield above 3 or 4 of increafe. The grain of this pa^
rilh is efteemed to be of a fuperior quality, and the be(l
malt in Orkney is made here. The bear raifed from fem^
ware is obferved to be bulky, and fmall bodied^ Peafa
thrive very well \ but, except a few for the table, little at-
tention is paid to them. Cabbages and garden roots grow
in great perfedion ; and perhaps the fined and largeft arti-
chokes in the world are to be found in this country, in th«
common kail-yards, fpringing. up amongft the giafs with«
out any cultivation.
^oo^i!f.•— There are a few currant or berry buQies, and a
few apple trees, trained up along the garden-walls ; but ilo
foreft trees ever have been, or perhaps ever will be, raifed
in this country. The atmofphere is evidently too much
impregnated with falt-water \ for, in ftormy weather, the
fea-fpray flies over the whole country, and frequently ruins,
the crop, particularly if it happens in the firil of Auguft,
before the corn is greenful. There are a few natural hazles^
mountab-alh^ and willows, in one of th« vallies of the hill
of Hoy % ^Ti^. although thefe, owing to the winding of the
valley, and the height of the furrounding hills, are remark-
ably well flieltered, yet they do not exceed la or 14 feet
in height. A great many roots of fmall trees, feemingly
fiich as thefe, are alfo dug up in feveral peat-moflcsi but it
does not appear that there have ever been trees of any fize
in thb country ; and this fad b incontrovertibly eflablilhed
by the Icelandick hiftorians, who relate, that Einar, Earl
of Orkney, about the end of the niijth century^ " DiQum
*' fffe Jor/Einarcmt quod<x/cwdi\ et/oco, lignorum. loco ad-;
Vol. XIX. 3? " *i4#rf
4i« StatiJHcal Account
** hiriftek cefpiits (i. e. Torf^ emm in Orcadihu wmtrm
^ fylv^r Ctko Scandica, apud Jobmjomum, p. %.
WiUiam Hoajman of 'Grsmby, the principal heritor of
this paril6, lately planted feveral thouiand trees of differed
kinds* but without cffed. The pre&nt incumbent has ilb
planted a good many of different forts and fizcs, bot they do
iboner get above the wall, than they are immediately blafi-
ed. A few a(h trees were lately cat down in the Bifliop's
garden at Kirkwall ; which, in the fpace of loo years, had
grown to the height of between 30 and 40 feet ; and e«ren
thefc were proteAed by houfes of equal height. Indeed,
Orkney is not Angular in this particular. We find the iiune
canfes produce the fame effcds in other fituations fimilar to
theirs, o/e. in Caithneis, Buchannels, and in aU prooumto-
ries, where the fea-air predominates.
Shtip. — In the hills and daks of Orphir, there is bfi-
cient palhire for 3000 or 4000 (beep ; and yet the wIm^
number does not exceed 400, owing chiefly to the prefatt
want of police in the country. For, previous to the I74t»
when the heritable jurifdiAions were abolifhed, there were
bailies in every parifk, who decided in fmall matters wkk-
in their bounds ; and were particularly attentive to dieit^
gulations relating to the folding, (hearing, and marking d
iheep. Then no one was permitted to uke a flieep upos
any pretence, without the prefence of at leaft two fyxSt-
ble witneffes, called Lawrightmen. But of late, fince thefc
offices have been abolifhed, every one goes to the hill when
be pleafe), and either marks and fhears them without aoj
witneis, or difpoies of them as he tliinks proper ; by which
means thieves abound, and the real proprietors are defraud-
ed \ and as thefe poor animals are neither boufed nor herded,
many of them perifli of cold, and many are worried hy
dogs. Such is our fituatioa with regard to this moU ufe-
qf Orpbin 41 1
fid aoimal^ ckieflj owing to the above cenfes, aad putiy
to the Ul-JQdged preference given t> tj»e Itnen-maiin&dore,
in » coontrj^ where it can never become a flaple comnuK
Number of jicris.^^Thtxe is no map of the parilli ; hot
as the ploi^gangs are much of a fize» each containing
mbout 8 acrea of arable ground at an average, and the paf-
ture confiding of about double that number } and as 3 crofts
majr equal a ploughgoing, then j 17x81=936 acres of arablCf
and 936X2=1872 acres of paflure, and the whole pariih
being computed to contain 20 fquare miles, or 12800 acres,
then there remain for moflesy braiks, lakes, and hiU-pafiuTCf
5^92 acres. The arable being to the whole furface as z
to 131 ; and both arable and pafiure as i to 4^ ^ and to the
wafte land as 1 to 31 nearly*
LoMgua^e, and Names of Places^ — ^The language fpoken
here is much the fame as in the fouth of Scotland, and firan^i
geis remark, with lefs of a provincial accent. The ancient
names of places are derived from the Norwegian, fuch as
Tulkibiller, the land of Tuikermen -, Kirbider, Kirkland ;
Houton and Hobbifter, Highland ^ Swambifter, the land of '
Soeno; Orphir, the land of Fire; and Claidran, Glofe
Town, from being the weftermoft extremity of the pariih,
and like a mill cloufe, clofing or {hutting up the fame. It
is fomething remarkable, that the wedern extremity of the
neighbouring pariih has a fimilar name, viss. Cloudon, as if
the original meafurer of thefe paridies, in laying out their
diflierent didrids, had proceeded from £• to W. from a fu-*
perditions refpeA to the fun's courfe. There are many
other local names, evidently of fimilar origin; fiich as,
Voeoels, a headland dividing two fmall bays ; Heildibrae,
^ place where bonefires uled to be kindled, from the Ice-
landick
411 StaHJHcal Aciount
landick word biild^ 'fignifying fire ; Konger's-know, t ta*
malus near the road leading to the KingVferry. But from
what circumflance the Mainland came to be honoiired
with the name of Pomona, is difficult now to account for;
unlets its origin be afcribed to an opinion which prevailed
Among the ancients, that Thule was a terreftrial paradiic,
reCembling the garden of the Hefperides, Orkney may
have received its name from the Saxons, its ancient inha-
bitants, who had emigrated from the Hercynian foreft,
i^'hich, Csefar tells us, Craci appellant Orcytnam^ and of
which Saxony formed a part.
The ancient proprietors of this parilh were the Halcros,
the Sindairs, and the Stewarts. The only confidereble
proprietor at prefcnt is William Honyman, ECq; of Gram-
iay, a gentleman pofi*efled of the largefl property in thb
county, next to Lord Dundas, and lineally defcended from
Andrew JIonyman» BiOiop of Orkney, whom he has the
honour to reprefent. Keith, in his Catalogue of the Bi*
ihops, p. 1:36. tells us, that Andrew Hooyman, Archdeacon
of St Andrews, author of the Seafonable Cafe and Surrej
of Naphtali, fucceeded Bifhop Sydferf, anno 1664, to the
fee of Orkney, in the month of July i668. This prelate
received^ on the flreet of Edinburgh^ by one Mitdiell, who
had been at the rifing into rebellion at Pentland Hills, a (hoc
in his arm, with a poifoned bullet, as he was ftepiog into
the Archbilhop of St Andrew's (Dr Sharp) coach, for
whom the (hot was intended. He found his health much
impaired after this difaftcr. He died in February 1676,
and was buried in the Cathedral Church of Kirkwall. He
was a man of fingular piety, and great abilities.
mit'dite.—Tht towns or diftridls of this parilh arc each
of them furrounded by one common dike of feal, called the
Dill-dike ; the whole burden of keeping which in repair,
I vciy
^Orphir. 41^
ytrj improperly ftlls npon thofe whofe farms are contigni-^
ous to it, the reft giving themCelves no concern \ by which
means it is poorly kept up indeed.
jRciff. — ^The valued rent is L. 1631 : 18 : 10} Scotch mo-
ney ; the real rent, including the feu-duties paid for the
biifaopric, about L. 500 Sterling, befides L. 150, at an ave.
rage, for kelp. The value per acre of arable land may be
68. 8d. and of pafiure is. 8d« About 100 fathoms of
peat are fent from hence to the towns of Kirkwall and
Stromnefs yearly, valued at L. x, 8 s. per fathom ; one half
of thefe is paid in rent \ the remainder, though pnrchafed
with great labour, both of horfes and people, is a fure fund
to the inhabitai^ts, as their mofles are inexhau&ible.
Weighis and Meafuret. ^T!ht falfe weights and meafnres
•f this county have long been a fource of grievance and
complaint ; and in no inftance is the oppreflion more gla-
ring than in the meafure of peats paid here by the tenant^p
under the denomination of a fathom. This was origi-
nally a cube of 6 feet (quare, containing a 16 folid feeti
and will it be believed by the generous and free-born Eng-
liOiman, that, in a feries of years, this meafure has been
gradually iocreafed upon the ignorant and unfufpeding iur^
habitant, by his inhuman landlord, from a 16 to xoo8 folid
feet ! for the prefent fathom in this parifli meafures no leis
than ta feet fquare by 7 feet high.
The other weights and meafures of this country, which
«re of Daniih origin, have been alfo increafed in the iame
proportion, whether by the landholder, or fuperior of the
feu*duties, or by both in concert, is now uncertain ; bat
"whoever were the tranfadors of this infamons bufinefs, if
the cries of an opprcfied people ever reach the Throne of
Mercy, they have-by this time received their juft rewanL
4^4 StatiJHeal Account
J^o Locd Dandas^ who is the preient Ai{Krior, and who ii
jttftlj efteemed to be one of the bed gentlemen in England,
no blame whatever can attach ; his familj purehafed the
eftate long after the date of thofe grievances ; and, fo far
from oieriting the flightefi charge of op{Mreffion» his Lord-
fliipt in a year of oncofDmon fcarcitj, upon receiving a lift
df ihoCe grievances, readily offered to accept of the lowcft
converfion the proprietors would name, provided the iame
bene&t were cooimanicated to their fabtenants : And, fj
be on the man who rejeAed th^ equitable and humane
fordpofal.-
On the Orkney weight, called the punlar, 14 merks
snake 1 fetting =: 3a lb. Dutch, and 6 fettings make
I miel=:iii fione diito* This inflrument is upon the fame
principle. as the Roman fieelyard, but may be very eafily
fiihiiiedi for, by making the fmalleft alteration on the
Ihortarm, to which the weight is appended, the receipt
ma^y be confiderably inci eafed or diminiibed ; and either
Ihe payer or receiver greatly injured. A miftaken notion,
however, prevails in this country : That* fuppofing this in-
flrument to be corrediy.adjulled, and that the weigher were
an honeii perfon, yet ftill this mode of payment is in favour
of the receiver. But the cafe is quite the reverfe ; for after
an exad I'urvey ot ihe punlar, upon mechan cal principles, it
will be found, that for every iione weight above two, the
receiver fuftaios a lois of a|. lb. Dutch. To make this uo-
derftood, it will be necelTary to explain, that the punlar is a
lever of 6 feet long'^divided, by notches, into la equal pa:rts,
of 6 inches each, one of which conditutes the fhort arm,
from the extreme end of which pioje6b a plug of iron, of a
little more than an inch long, and at the end thereof b io-
ierted a pivot, round which a hook moves, for holding up
the weight. The balance, upon the oppofite arm, .is a iione
^33 lb. Dutchy appctnding from a moveable ringi which
Aides
$fOrpbtr. 4ig
Sides from notch to notch as the weigher choofes. Now, it
18 rrident, that this addttioa to the ihort arm muft dimi-
sifli the weight ; and, that in adjulling the lever, the mca-
fure of the ihort arm ought to be taken from the pivot of
the hook to the pivot of the center of motion, and not from
the end of the beam, as is the prafKce, which makes a 6tfa
part of diflference. For, if jou fuppofe this arm of the fe-
ver, which is precifelj the cafe, by the one meafuremeot
to be 7 inches, and by the other only 6 ; or, dividing the
fame, in the one cafe, into 28 parts, or quarters of inches,
and in the other into 24 of thefe quarters ; then, according
to the mechanical principles of the lever, the weights will
be inverfely as their diflances, and 24 merks at the hook
"Will Balance 28 upon the oppofite arm, and there will be a
lois to the receiver of 4 merks upon evefy fetting, or repe-
tition of the firft error, occationed by not making the mea-
fure from notch to notch on the long arm of the lever of
the proper length, viz, from the centre of the pivot of the
hook to the centre of the pivot of the point of motion i •f
courfe, the lofs to the receiver, upon the miel, will be 20
merks ; upon the 9 fet tings, 32 merks ; and upon the 19
fettings, 44 ; being nearly the 7th part of the whole re-
ceipt.
To cure this original defefi, a very Inadequate remedy
has been apphed, viz. the perfon weighing adds ^ fetting
more to the weight, by Aiding forward the ring to which
the balance is appended half way to the next notcii ; for it
muft be obferved, that every notch forms a fetting. Of
old, they have probably had fome ftandard weight equal to
the miel ; and, finding the punlar miel to fall ihort of it, or
perhaps not to correfpond with its cunil cu ^t paits upon the
bifmar, anot\er Danifh weight, weighing one letting, and
upon nearly the fame principles, they r^ave thought to rec-
' tiQr the miflake m this imperfeA manneri not having been
able
4x6 iftatiJUcal Acctmnt
able to difcovcr the origiaal error. And this has alfo beea
the reafon why, when the weight exceeded 6 or 8 iettingSy
they have given 6 merks of caft, or forefeeling, to make
up the increafing dcficiencj. This unfortunate miAake £ar
the buyer and receiver may be completely re&ified, in the
manner above mentioned, by taking the meafnre from pi-
vot to pivot, and not from the end of the beam, and then
every fetting will fall upon its proper notoh, without gmng
beyond it, and there will be no caft of the beam, or fore-
feeling, as it is called, necefiaty, which is the fouroe of great
fraud,
Cbttrebf Stipend^ Poor^ CJi:.— ^The church, which waa re*
paired 40 years ago, was built in the year 1707, and the
manfe in 1789. The ftipend, including the glebe, may be
about L. 80 a-year. The patron is Lord Dundas. The
prefent incumbent was fettled in 1776, and is as yet un-
married.
There is a parochial fchool, where from 30 to 40 bop
and girls are taught reading, writing, and arithmetic. The
encouragement given to the matter is extremely (baall ; s
folitary houfe, without fo much as a kail>yard ; 100 merlins
of falary, and no emoluments whatever; although it is to
be hoped the heritors will redrels this grievance, and ap-
point fchooKwages to be paid. A Society (chool is mnch
wanted here ; and until fuch can be obtained, the inhad>I-
tants, poor as they are, make a ibift to employ private
teachers occafiooally at their own expence.
The condition of the poor is truly lamentable. The
number upon the roll fometimes exceeds 20 ; and the an-
nual amount of contributions for their fupport is only L.4
at an average. Would the non-reiiding heritors, who are
in affluent circumilances, contribute fomething for thiir re*
m
ofOrphir. , 417
lief, which hitherto tfaej have not donei it would redound
much to their honour.
Anitquities^-^lvk the church-yard are the remains of an
ancient building, called the Girth-houfe, to which great an-
tiquitjis afcribed. It is a rotnndo of 18 feet in diameter,
and 20 feet high ; open at top ; and on the eaft fide is a
vauked concavity, where probably the altar ftood,- with a
flit in the wall to admit the light ; two-thirds of it have
been taken down to repair the pariih church. The walls
are thick, and confift of ftones, ftrongly cemented with
lime. From its refemblance to the Pantheon, fome have
afcribed this building to the Romans ; but, in all probabi*
lity, it has been a Popidi chapel, dedicated by the piety of
its founder to fome favourite faint.
In the diftriA of Swambifler, or Suenobifter, are the
mins of an ancient tower, of a circular form, and about x8o
feet in circumference ; and once, probably, the refidence of
Sneno Boerifa-op, who was killed by the famous Sueno
Aftertfae, during a Chrifimas entertainment in thu parifli,
at the houfe of Paul, one of the Norwegian Counts of Ork-
ney ; of which a very particular account is given by the
Icelandick hiftorian of Saga Orcadenfis.
In the diftrid of Tuikibifter, at a place called Obah, re-
fided feveral of the ancient Counts of Orkney ; particularly
Harold, who was poifoned by fats aunt Fraukark, and the
aforementioned Paul, who was put to death by his own fif-
ter, the firft Counteisof Athol. The fituation is fo circumflan-
tially defcribed by the Icelandick hiftorian, as not to admit
of a doubt -, ahhough, except an ancient chapel and burying-
ground, alluded to by the hiftorian, fcarce a veftige of the
ruin remains. Romifh chapels are to be met with in every
diftrid of the parifb ; alfo a great many barrows or tumuli \
bat none of them have been opened.
Vol.* XIX. 3 G Commtrce.
41 S StaiiJHcal Auount
Ccmm€rci.-^^The prbcipal article of commerce is kelp,
which at prefent fells as high as L. lo per too. The oalj
other articles worth .mentioning are, malt, black cattle,
greafe, butter, and linen-jaini ; for which fo poor a price
is given by the dealers in that commodity, that the moft ex-
pert fpinner can hardlj earn a d. a-day.
No country in North Britain is better fituated for trsde
than thb, and yet nowhere has it been more oegleded.
This is chiefly owing to a low fpirit for fmuggHng, which
has been the bane of Orkney for half a century pafi; and,
befides perjury, been the introduAioo, of almofl every fp^
cies of meannels and of vice which can degrade the human
cbaraAer. The writer of the prelent report, urbcn a very
young man, infpired with the love of his country, and fired
with indignation at this unhallowed trade, in which, as in
a vortex, truth, honour, integrity, and every virtue, was
fwallowed up, refolved, with the fpirit of an ancient Ro-
man, to attack the hideous monfler } and accordingly^ de-
fpifing the mifapplied appellation of Informer, in fo glo-
rious as well as hazardous an attempt, gave in to the cd-
It&oT of the cuAoms, on the public tibreet, an accuHitioa
againft a noted (muggier, had hb veflel ieized, condemocd,
and burnt ; demanded and received the informer's ihare, as
an inducement to others to follow the example, and imme-
diately beftowed the (ame in ereding a charity fchool ia
the pariih, whereby they have been fince greatly benefited.
Although it mud be confefled, that, in thisbufinefs^ he was
privately fupported by fome of the firft gentlemen in Ork-
ney ; whofe reprefentatives, 'much to their honour, and fcr
the good of their country, have fince completed the bofi-
ne&i and it is to be hoped, lefs from political motives, thin
from moral and patriotic principles.
ofOrpbtr. 419
Advantages and DifadvantageSi^^Tht advantages df this
pariih are, fire, water, and fine women ; notwithilanding
which, moft of the heritors refide at a diftance, and leave
their tenants to the mercy of faflors, and under agents, who,
hefides the fervices payable to their mafiers, require many
others, onder the denomiifation of Favours, which, like
Harry VIII.'s Benevolences, they dare not refufe. But it
is to be hoped, that Mr Honyman of Graemfayy whofe
mind is enlightened by fouthero ideas, will redreis thofe
grievances, will aboliih perfonal fervices, will grant long
leafes to his tenants, and encourage them to improve their
farms ; whereby he will render his people happy, his^ fami-
ly refpeded, and gain to himfelf immortal honour ; whilft
his conduft, at the fame time, will be an example to others,
which they will be proud to imitate.
NUM.
4^0 Statijlical Account
NUMBER XIX.
PARISH OF KILMANY,
(CoUHTT AND StvOB OF FlFJE, PrESBTT£RT OF CuTAR),
By the Rev. Afr John Cook, Minifier.
np^HE parifli of Kilmany has the fame name, with that
''- by which the moft confiderable village it poflefles b
diftinguiihed. From a fmall burying-ground * which far-
rounds the churchi the name has probably been derived.
This village, which the name, the number of people it
contsdnsy and the vicinity of the church, diftinguifh abore
every other in the parifli, is about 5 miles diftant from
Copar,
* Kilmftoy is, according to common opinion, of Celtic orifin. If onlf
tiiat part of the word which iignifies a burying-ground be Celtic, it will nst
be a fingolar inftance of fuch compofitioo in our mixed language. T^
other Tillages in the parifli hav^, in geaend, either avnesdefcriptive of the:
£cuationi or thofe of former poflefibrs.
ofKilmany. 421
Cupar, the countj town, and the feat of the prelbyter j. It
is fcattered along the (hallow and narrow water of Mo-
traj •, which unites, in the weftcrn extremity of the parifli,
two fmall ftreams, iffuing from different fides of Norman's
Law, and which, after a ihort and gentle courfe, falls into
the river Eden, not far from the bay of -St Andrew's.
A little attention to the pleaiing irregularities in the ground
on which Kilmany is iituatedi and through which the rivu-
let flows, might have made it a beautiful pi&ure of rural
fcenery. But how feldom has fuch attention either chofen
the fituations, or arranged the forms, of the largeil towns !
Accident, or the idea of conveniency, which can feldom be
hurt by a regard to beauty, is allowed to have in thefe mat-
ters too powerful an influence \ and in the poiition of the
ftraggling huts of this village, as in that of many other
places^ we have to lament the careleffheis which can build
in a beautiful place of refidence, and yet negleA to take
advantage qf the aids which the fcenery at once furnifhes
and fuggefts, to decorate the dwellings of men, and from
thefe thus decorated, to derive ornaments in addition to its
own.
The church f (lands on a beautiful bank, ri(ing gradually
from the ftream, which flows paft it on the S. ; is (kirted on
the W. by fome tall a(hes ; and fronts the hill of Forrit,
once covered with (irs, but now flript of the whole. No
little clump has been left upon any of its brows \ not even
a
• The water could not float anj kind of velTel for tranfporting com.
f So late as the year 1768, the church was renewed. Tlic building is
iimple and neat : but unfortunately, the long narrow form in \^ hich alraoft
all the old churches in this part of the country are conftrucled, has been too
much retained. It feems ftrange, that there fhould have been fo prevalent
a partiality to a form of building, of all othcn lead fitted for public
ineaking.
422 Stattjlical Account
a folltarj tree to (how of what it could have boafted fof*
merly, in a countrj very deftitutc of fuch riches.
Extent of the Parijb, — ^Thc grounds of the parifli firetd
from W. to £. about 6 Englifh miles, chiefly in that fer-
tile trad of country, which runs almoft without interrup-
tion, from the barren plain betwixt the mouths of the
Eden and the Tay, to the town of Newburgh and Loch
LindOres. Where the valley is confined, the parifli is
fcarcely a mile in breadth ; but to the W. beyond the vil-
lage of RathiUet, it widens with the valley, rifes on each
hand over the adjacent heights, and gains an extent of about
four miles. The greateft part of the parifli, however, is
contained between one continued branch of the Ochil Aocn-
tains, and fome hills, of diflerent fizes, and of various forms,
which are fcattered to the S.
Kilmany is diflant from the river Tay, and from the
port of Balmerino, about 3 Englifli miles ; but is feparated
from them by the branch of the Ochil Hills which ftretches
along the N. of Fife, and gradually diminiflies in fize, till
it flioots down into the river near Scot's-craig.
Wood and Scenery. -^^Thn range of hilly ground, which
diverfifies in the mod ftriking manner the fouthem fltore
of the Tay, which in fome places fwells in AiU unbrokea
mafles, with variegated colouring, in others, raifes fad>
dcnly upwards rugged fragments of uncovered rock, might,
were the hand of improvement to perform its office, make
this part of Fife a fcene of the mod luxuriant beautj.
There are brows on thefe hills which the plough cannot
reach, or where its labour would not be rewarded ; which
equally by their fituation and their foil are fitted to rear
timber. This is fo obvioufly the only ufe to which they
can be put, that tlie traveller who takes time to look around
hixDi
ofKilmany. 423
him, mu& bment the nakedneis they difplay. He will la-
ment it the more in a (bene, where the hand of nature, and
the toils of the hulbandman, have done fo much to admini-
fter to his delight \ where the contrafi of broken rocks and
fwelling hillsy with plains in the richeft cultivation ; and
where the cultivation, breaking with irregular fieps the
bleakneis of the hills, fometimes left at their bafe, fome-
times climbing on ttieir fides, concur to form an exquifitelj
varied landfcape. How much would it add to the fcene,
ivere the rich com fields to rife into the bofom of woods
flretching with various length down towards the plains
-were fome of the bared fummits to efcape above their
verdure ; and were the beautiful waters of the Taj feen
through openings made thus pi&urefque ?
Neither would fuch exertions in improving the country
be unprofitable ; nor is the idea of making them vifibnary.
Independently of the value of the wood, (and it is well
known how foon it does become valuable), it tends, by.
affording a warm fheltcr, to meliorate the adjacent land in
a fiate of tillage. From every appearance it is alfo pro-
bable that the foil, which cannot be ploughed, might bear
a rich covering of wood. From experience, indeed, little
can be faid, for the parifii can boaft of few attempts to plant
trees \ but where fagacity and tafte have made the attempt,
and continued the fmall attention neceflary for fuccefs, they
have been in general rewarded witli a confide rable recompenfe
for the labour, and a rich addition to the beauty of the fur-
rounding fcene. Tlie hill of Forrit, in the pariih of Logie,
was, till fome years ago, covered with firs $ ax acres on the
efiatc of Lochmalony, bear them in great perfe£Uon, and
we may fee them fcaling fome of the fteepeft hills in the
neighbourhood *• In as far, indeed, as the beauty of the
country
* It is but joft to obferve, that the fpirit of nifing wood &ems now to
awaken : (mnl planutlons have been of late made, and are ftiU makiog
in
424 Statijlical Accwnt
country is concerned, it would be rather defirable that in
fome rpots thcj fhould fail entirely. The irregularity thus
produced, the wandering inartificial line in which the foli-
age would then appear, would give an eafe to the Icenery,
which the formal fquares and circles, ufed with fuch partia-
lity by cuftom to bound plantations, effednally dellroy.
Even were the trees not to rife to a great height, the
proprietor,'though he could not be otherwife enriched by
them, would be indebted to the Ihelter they ^otAcdi to his
arable lands ; and the country would wear almoQ as rich an
afped, with its hills thus covered, as if they were crowned
with lofty wood. On a rugged country thb is peculiarly
beautiful. A little diftance alwaya gives a fine efieft, even
to the poored plantations ; the (hortnefs of the wood the
eye cannot then accurately meafure ; while, at the fame
time, the foliage feems deep, and the boldnefs of the
ground towers above its ibade.
^«//^«i>i>i.— No ruins of any abbey or chapel, not even
the fragments of any remarkable building, give folemniry
to the fcenery of the parifb. A few pretty large fiones,
funk in the top of one of its hills, have excited curiofity ;
and the genius of antiquarianifm, unaided by the Informa-
tion which the country can afford, would probably find in
them the remnant of fome c«mp or calUe. The leis iplen-
did, but the more juft account of the inhabitants, makes
them part of fome common decayed fence.
Scarcely a mile to the N. of Kilmauy, there is a romantic
rocky den, cut deep in the face of the mountain. It has
probably been gradually worn down by the fucoeffive tor-
rents, which the heavy rains in winter throw from the
higher
in tr^ pviAi. £.nd its r^^ighboarhocwl; and if t^c ciemac? ire \igoroutIj
c«>niiTiued, in to ; can the Tacc of tUs port 91 the c&untiy « ul b< cosvlctelj
dunked.
tfKilmanjf. 41^
higher gtonnd, dafliing amongft its rocks. The name it
has received in the country is, Goale*s Den. fij thofe who
live near it, no explanation of the name is given* The
manner in which it is written hete would lead anj one, ac-
quainted with the Arabian Nights Entertainments, to ima-
gine, that fnperllttious terrors had peopled it^with the de^^
ftrojing demons mentioned in one of thefe flories. The
h& is, that difmal reports, of what had been feen and heard
there, were in other dajs circulated ; reports which have had
often lela to gain them credit, than the difmal gloom which
the (hades of night muft draw over that rugged nnfre^uent*
td fcene*
Number of Acreu ^uii itaiure of the ^01/.*— The irregular
extent of the lands in the parifh, already mentioned, in*
eludes, (befides a glebe of 9), 3963 Scotch acres. Of thefe^
the foil di^rs according^to their local fituation. In ibme
of the acres, which are fartheft fouth, the foil is a ftrong
dajr ; in thofe forming the flat banks of the Motray, which
runs through the whole length of the parifh, the foil is a
rich black loam, continued beneath the furface, beyond the
reach of the plough \ in thofe which are extended on the
gentle acclivities, it is loam, with a gravelly and fometimes
a rocky bottom ; and in the reft, the ground is cold moor^
on fome fpots covered with furze *•
Agrieubure^'^K very great proportion of the lands in
the parifh is in a (late of high cultivation.— Of 3963 acres*
3216 are arable, the moft of which commonly produce good
crops. In raifing thele crops, there is no particular rotation
Vol. XIX. 3 H uniformly
• T1»re is alfo in the eafietn cohief of the ptriih t piece of light ftndjr
ibiU which curiei broom to the height of 6 or S ieet ; a prodnce of vcrr
gfcat betnty, and of ibme ntilitf as fuel, but which takes fuA poflii&on of
«He gronnd» that to extiiptte it a a vcrr difficnk talk.
4^6 StoH/lical Account
tmiformlj ob&nred tbroaghoat the parifh ; hat the oae mxA
approved, is that which the iDgeDioos Lord Karnes has re-
oommended. The arabk land is laboured by 55 plooj^
drawn each by two horfes, which are driven hj the ploogh-
man. Though the ufe of cattle in tilling the groond, and
even in dragging carriages, be entirely es^oded here, it
anay be coBiputed that 159 are raifed annually within die
pariAi and fold when from betwixt 3 to 4 years okL There
are no more horfes bred than what are neceflary ioz the
purpofes of hufliandry, and for preventing the places of thofe
which fail from being Itupplted out of the public markecs*.
Of the land which at prefent lies wade, a confiderahk
extent may be brought into a- ftate of cultivation. Tbe
meadows, in particular, on the banks of the Motraj, and
which the water often overflows, might be made the nioft
produdive ground in the parilh. A&ivity has alreadj
converted a part of thefe into the mod luxuriant com-ScIds^
but to the improvement of the whole an obftacle is oppo-
fed, which perhaps may not fpeedily be removed. Tbe
water of Motray turns four mills in its courCe throa^ the
parilh. The accumulation of water which hence niu& be
made at each, renders it impofCUe to drain the meadows fo
thoroughly as otherwife might be done ; and the proptic-
tors of thefe mills have not as yet been dil]^Ced to give op
for any equivalent the privilege they pofiels. This privi-
lege was undoubtedly acquired, when ignorance of agricol-
ture fuppofed thefe meadows to be ufelels \ but notwicb-
fianding this ignorance of the nature of the compaft, it was
&irly acquired, and the enjoyment of it has now become s
right. Though it would be abfiird to think that it migfat
be facri£k:ed to benevolence, ;t would not be annatorsl to
cxped, that for a proper equivaknt it would be yielded to
promote the public good* But the proprietors of thtfe
milh
• Tbe puiih ftedi aUb two flocki of 0ieq^» wuwataog tamntar t»
«bone 24Pi moft^ of tiw EDgliOi breed.
x>fKilmany. ^2f
mOIs haye a much weightier reafon, in the efiimation of the
world, to induce them to make fuch a concef&on. Their
own intereft, independent] j of all equivalent given them,
would be thus advanced, for the removal of the mills*
would make way for the improvement both of the mea-
dows of their neighbours, and of thofe which belong to
themfelves. Till this change take place, the rich meadows
will be overflowed with water, and the country denied the
corn which in great abundance they would produce f.
JVood^ — Of all the ground which might be planted with
wood, only about 74 acres bear trees grown to a vifible
fize. Except a few afhes, which clufter in the villages, or
run out in hedge-rows ; and fooie trees of different kinds,
which are fcattered round the family-feats, on the grounds
of Rathillet, Lochmalony, and Mountwhannie, the planta-
tions have, chequered with two or three draggling birches,
the
* Tbcic four mills, one of whicb is afed for dreffing flax, are all that re-
main in the parilh of a much greater number. The fmaU decreafe in the
confitxDption of oats, peafe, and barley, (they were corn-mills), am hardly
be coafidercd a reafon of this diminution. A better will be (bund in tb«
fapcrior fise and mechanifm of thofe that reaMun. Thirlage, a fpeciet of
monopoly, which, like all others that are privileged, arofe from a fear, tluc
can emift only in the infiincy of the am, impofes here no heavier bm-den on
iht &rmer, than to make him grind the corn ul'cd in his family at the
coinil mill.
t Inefttmatin^the improremc^ts in agricoltore, which have been siade
within the pariih, it will not be fafe to follow as a guide the increafe of
caltivated Und. This increafe has by no means correfponded to the fupe-
Her ordet tntb which greater Ikill in husbandry has brought fields which
laiTe Wea lottg under the plough ; and unleft the quantity of grain now
niied cotild be compared with what was raifed formerly, a comparifon
which cannot be made, it will, not be known what have been the imprave-
ments in agriculture, nor what praife the fArmeis deferve. The amazing
rife of rents may be fomc rule oT juJgmg.
the deep gloom of the Scotch, or the gayer verdnre (^thc
}arch-fir. The fmall proportion of wooded ^ound, in com-
parifon of what may be wooded, has been in part remoyed
|>7 confiderable plantations lately made on the eftatcs of
Lochmalony, Monntwhannie, and Myre Cairnie ; and it b
%o be hoped, that s^few years will fill the melancholy blank,
which the eye, in wan^^ng oyer this parifli *, finds opoa
Its mountains.
7ithes. — The tithes of the parlfli, with tL • right of pre-
(Spntation to the living, were given to the College of St Sal-
yator, in the IJni verfity of St Andrews, by Bi(hop Keooedj,
the foun(ler of that college* They were intended to be t
valuable donation ; and would hive be^ fo in a high de-
gree, from a parifli in fuch a ftate of cultivation, had tbej
been allowed to keep pace with the progreis of mgricoltorc
and the pripe of corn. This was not allowed ; and thej
have now (hnink out of all proportion to the real ren\. The
Principal and Profeflbrs of the United College, fince the
union of St Sal vator's and St Leonard's, have received theffii
i^id are titulars of the tithes, and patrons of the pariib.
Fuilf ^^^--rla the ordinary articles confumed for tk
fupport, or for the comfort of life, the inhabitants of this
parifh may be abundantly fupplied. But the fupply cannot
l^ procured at low prices. Cpal^, in particuls^, rmnft both
be purchafed at a high rate, and brought into the pariih bj
tedious or difficult roads. In the county of Fife, no ootl
pits have as yet been opened to the north of the river Eden*,
hence no coals of any kind can be brought hither over land
by a ihoVter road than fix miles, and none good by one kSs
than i6 ! and it is no eafy n^atter to convey tbem from the
T.7.
* Eleven proprietors pofle6 at prefent, in different proportiotii» the landtof
|iie pariih. For planting ^ larch is in a fpecial manoer lecomiseaded to
f|)eir attention.
ofKilmany. 429
Taj, by the nigged road which croires the fleep hilb fefM*
rating Balmcrino from Kilmaoy*. From the ▼ictnitj of
the pariih to the towns of Cupar and Dundee, it feela the-
price of focb provifioos as the country produces in abun«
dance, aflSeded by the conftant demand of theie hrge mar-
kets. Hence cheeley buttey, fivwb, eggs, ai^ bought at a
higher pri^ at Kilmany, becauie, from the progveisof
Inznry, they are fought with greater avidity thaa .beef or
nratton, and from the wealth of the inhabitants, are pur*
chafed at ao enormous rate at Dundee. Out of the mar*
kets of the towns joft mentionedt tho£b who do not kill their
ewn meat are fupplied* It was once eafy to bring, at aU
boux«, fud) fopplies to Kilmany \ for the high road betwi^
Cupar and Dundee run through the village. Some^eats
ago^ (ibr it is bat of late that Fife can boaft of having a
tumpike^road), the courfe of this road was turned eaftwards^
three miles 'from Kilmany. ' The public profited by tba
change, for they travel by a imootb inftead of a hilly road i
but the village fuffisred \ for it no longer enjoys the wonted
frequent opportnnitica of conveyance betwixt Cupar and
Dundee.
Fofmlqiwm.f-^Tht pari(h is the refidence of h«(bandmea«
Agricnltnre is the nniverial employment -, it is the fource
ind the fubflance of its few commercial tranlafiions* It
gives fnbfiftence to almoft every individual in the parifli i
to the fiurmeis, to their fervants, to the families of thefis
(ervants, who are the great body of inhabitants \ aod to tha
%w mechanics, wbob offices are neceilary for carrying on
country
• Itfflttftfiireljbc dcfired bytU w1» havegfiia to o^oit, that %
HM Ifl IMB^noi wen better g|de.
43^ StatiJUeal A^auuu
etMlry iffidrit or Sor prooMCifig the comforts of life*.
FxoBi the occopadons of- the MiabiuntSy it is erident that
they caimoc be mmieroiifl. Agricaltorey however capable
of fltfordiiig the means of (bbfiftenee, never coHeds within
the lame bomids foch minliers, as do the various branches
of manafiiftiires caltivated thronghoat the ifland. Fewer
hands can condiid its operations^ One great objed, too,
\rtiieh in its prefent ftate it fisems to have in view» is to Cake
Jrbm there hamis as man j as podiUe. In many places, pro-
prietor and tenant have united to accomplifh this objeA.
To faave« hirge and eaiSy coHbfted rent is natarally deiired
by die 4brmer, and thn has eSefted the amiSiilation of the
little tenants fcatteted over the country; to fave as many
ftrvants as poiBtrie in the management of country affairs,
the latter has imagined it to be important economy, and
this has often fubftituted unmarried men in the place of na-
merous fiimtBes. The heakhieil and the pureft nurfery, of
the moft vigorous and innocent clafi of our countrymen, hzs
heaoe been much depopulated. However true it may ap-
pear, thM a numerons ela(s of tenantry are incapable of
keeping the ground in order, or of paying the proper itnt,
there are bounds, beyond which the idea muft prove fatal
to the ooontry in which it is put in pradice ; and it is evi-
dantty fbtl of danger, whatever elfe it be, to turn away the
cottagti» who have been wont to refide on a farm. The
nalttfal eoDfequenoes are, that fervants of that kind are
icarce,
• There 21 no baker m the panfli. Ths gtwteft pan of die breid coo*
fomed is prepared by the iamiiies who eat it. The increafe in d»e coafomp-
txon of wheaten bread has of late been confidenble, but that it bean no
proportion to the nfe made of oaten and pcafe meal in baking bread, is q>-
pi(n% frqnthe cifcurttoice af the pariA kwiftg no baker of its own.
May it not be inferred from thence, that in tiiaw ^ fcarcirf it is no d)e-
▼iation to the wants of the poor, when the rich give up the oiie of flour.
The cafe is diffesent m large towns. There is no flour preferred by baken,
* nor barley by brewers, to that which this pazifh raifes.
qfKQmawf. 4jl
U»xc€t aod tbrtr wages grett ; and itet a coca coqotry de*
pends upon foreign aid for cutung down us cropsw So long
as this aid can be eafilj procoffcdy Uie helplefibels off the JEh*
ttzation does not appear \ but it would be fevezdj fak, wor«
an J bappj change to meliorate the condition of tfaafe ro«
gions of poverty £rom whenoethe aid is derived.
There is no (iich dependence in this parifli* Its popula*
tion, though from the fituation mentioned it cannot be greats
has not, as far aa can be aicei:taincdt diminiflied within tho
lad 20 years. The number in 1755 was 785 *• There are
now living in the parilh 396 males, and 473 females 1 ia
all,869t.
Poor.— The funds of the leffioo, for the affiftMioe of the
poor, are adequate to afford the common foppliea. Thej
cooM of the intereft of about L. aoo. Sterling 1 upon whicb
capital no encroachment has been found neceflaryi of the.
money paid for the ufe of the mortcloth \ and of the collee*
tions at the church-door.
There are in the pariih neflated p^or, who receive week-
ly from the feifion. More or left is given to them, aceord-^
ing to their wants t > They very ieldom, and with much be*
fitatiooy uSl\ their wants muft be noticed and fiipplied«
The£e two happy conlequences, haiqpy for the virtue of
e The btptilffli have bcco, at a ncdium lor 10 ytan peft» ai. TVoie
buxicd in the chiuch-yard, 14. There it no fepaiate lift kept of the pa.
rifhionen boned, at they are fomedmet carried eUewhere, and ftruigei»
brought «) Kilmany* The avenge auuiber of marriagefl hi; bat of thefe
oee otfdiepactiet frcqnentfy bdon|^ toaaolher diftrid^
t Several familiet are Seceden from the Eftabliflied Church, and aflemble
A % ]riice of worlhip withia nie pariui*
I Tbek BWbcr may bt ftatcd tboirt 4 st aa average, ael ibeir aaeual
Memo V a4« 10 1.
43« Statt/Hgal AccQiM
snan^nd ariie fitmi hence. The rich are roaioi to tal:i
that care of their bvetfarcn, which andctpatea the wiflica of
the needj, which is man's heft acqnifidont and a ibozce of
fmre enjoyment; while the poor hrfe not that wHfadraw-
jng, declining modefty, to which it is lb plea&nt to aSoid
af&flance. Of both, foch is the preient flate of fedinga and
manners, there are here frequent inftances. Tbe more
wealthy (for the parifli may be divided into feveral kige
families under the immediate caie of the difirent &rmen)
take a kindly charge of thofe who lire under them, and
gear them, affilling them very liberally when ficknefc or
age has unfitted them for their fervioe. On the other
hand, the reloftance, not merely to folicit» but often even
Co receiTe aid, fliews that delicate fenle of dignity, which
poverty may fb keenly feel ; of which nothing can divcft a
man but the meannels of his own foul \ and which is much
defiderated amoogft the laay, diffipatedi importunate beg*
gars of large towns.
RiHgiom^ f/r.— It cannot be foreign from the cfejeft of a
Statiftfcal Account to mention the influence which rdigioos
principle has within the pariih* Notice of individuals is
Q^fXi improper and undignified ; a general ftatement of a
point, which, whatever public opinion or pradice may pra-
nounce, is of infinite confcquence to the ftability and ta
the happineis of fociety, no man, whatever the ftatement
might be, fhould be aihamed or afraid to make. It is
grateful to give a favourable ftatement. Religion will be
found hara to be much more than mere fpeculation ; it has
great influence on the cooduft; it concurs, withuniedncing
fitoation, to preCerve the manners fimple, and to make tbe
morals pure \ and it yields fupport in the hour of diftre&y
which the ftouteft hearts might wilh to have. Calm, pla-
cid refigoatioo, in the certain profpeA of approaching diT-
iblodflv,
tfKilmny. 433
£olatioo, afiordt an example of trne heroifm, which philo*
fophj might be prood to reach. But it is heroifm, an6ng
from a caufe that weU accoants for it, in minds which have
no tnoatementy from vanitj, of the poor defire of impofing
on the worldt to aflame die appearance of fortitude which
the J do not feeL It is the confequence of religion ; of
their firm belief of a better fiate of exiftence } and of their
hope of what a good man will in that ftate enjoj for ever.
Patriotifm^fiirely cannot with for a more fubftantial tre»*
(are to the country, the intereft of whole inhabitants (he it
defirooa to promote, than that the purifying influence of
tme religion fliould prevail amongft them ; nor deprecate a
greater evil, than the petulant prefumptuous licentioufnefr,
which tolerates no reafonable, no virtuous reftraints, which
holda thele up to ridicule, and laboon to nutke them difrt*
garded.
V0L.XCL 3I MUM*
434 Staii/Hcat Acatnf
NUMBEH XX.
PARISH OF DUNNING,
(CotJNTT or Perth, Synod or Pk&th aitd SmxsifCf
PRCSBTTE&T OF AuCHTE&ARI^Ek).
Bj 0 Frund to Statijiical Inqminu.
Sitmatiatif Exieni, C/r.
THE northera eztremitj of the OcbU Hills, temiiiac-
ing in Stnithearn, comprdicnds a verj confiderable
proportion of the pariih of Dunning* which is boonded on
the £. bj the pariih of Forteviot i on the W. by Aoditer*
arder } on theiS. by Foflbway i and on the N« by G«&.
The higher and muirland parts of the parifh are fitnated
among the Ochil Hills, the declivities of which are in fome
places gentky and can admit the plough i but in other pb-
ees they are fteep and rocky. The high miurs, fome of
which are at leaft looo feet above the level of the lea, arr
occupied in extenfive iheep-walkS| which fiiCer confider-
ably by a* cold climate, and a greatly expofed fituation.
The foil, however, in many places, is dry^ and earries a
ofDunningm 455
go6d.fward, aboundiiig with cgcoellent paftore-gnOies, which
retaioy even in dry fiealbns, a b^ittiful verdarc. Some
patches of heath and henjt graft, here abd there, incerrapt the
uniformity of the verdure. The foil is generally not deep,
nnd IS incombent on whinftone. Tbefe high lands remain
moftly uninclofed, except by a few dikes of earth or turf,
that formerly had, in ino^nlar forms, chiefly circular, been
drawn round ibme fmall.parcds of ground, once in tillage.
Thefe fmall indofures, if they delerTe the name, are now
^ery properly kft in pafhire, except one or two adjoining
CO each dwelUngJionle, and which are cropped mofily with
oats and potatoes. The produce in thefe high fituations is
extremely fcanty, and the harveft very late. This muir-
land diftqift is much intcrfefted by deep and very narrow
glens ; the verdant fides of which afford not only pafture,
but Ibm^times an excellent ihelter for flieep. Large clumps,
and ftripes of trees, are much defiderated in tbefe naked and
expofied places. There is every reafon to believe, that their
growth would be to qnick as amply to repay any neceffary
expences.
Thefe muixs are pafinrcd mofily with the fpeckled-faced
(heep, chiefly from the flieep difirids, north of Stratheam,
as Rillin, Sec. This variety of flieep is preferred to the
black-&ced lanton breed, for their weight and hardineis,
and being fooner ready for the n^arket. Severe colds^ and
long'ftorms in winter, are the greateft evils to which flieep
are expo&d in this high diftriA.
JgrumUwre^^-^lA the lower and arable parts of the parifli,
codidepAle improvements have of late been made in agri-
I enkore. Soromerufidlow and green crops are introduced
into every £uin ; and a regular fucceflion of crops is gene-
rally obCprvcd. Some farmers have adopted what is here
commonly called the Carfe of Gowrie fyftem, which is,
X.
436 Siatiftical Account
I. Oats I s. Sommer.fiUlow ; 3. Wheat ; 4. P^e; 5. Bir«
. Itjf with grab^fceds \ 6. Ha j. In other Carms the CdUow*
ing rotation is oblerved : i. Oats i %• Tamip ; 3. Oats or
barley; 4. Peafe; 5* Barley with grafles^ 6« Hay; and
fometimes pallare the faventh year. Potatoes ave plsated
generally in fome comer of a field in grain crops. Ten re-
turn of oats is not an uncoooanon produce. The tnniip
crop is found to be precarious, but is beUeved to be Teiy
ufeful. In fome portions of ground here the oats do not
degenerate. Thefe may be called permanent feib; sad
wherever found, ought to be chemically analized, that thdr
qualities and proportiooable miactcu^ may be afcertaiosd.
By arriving, at thb knowledge, farmers will have at tin
more readily in their power to refiify their foils^ and briag
them to an high degree of perfefiion. The Cnpar*Grsnge
or Angus oats are mod commonly fewn ; and they not in-
frequently give meal for com. The rent of land has riiiea
greatly in the fpace of a few years. In general it b at lest
Cloubled fince the year 1770, Some land is let at L. 3 ^
acre, Scotch, yearly, on a leafe of (even years ; a great deil
is let at 40 s. or two guineas an acre. Top-dreffing on the
fward, for being ploughed up next fpring, is a Tcry ooai-
mon prafiice^ It is a prevailing maxim here, that hod
topdrefled with lime only, or lime and a mixture of earth,
fliould not be ploughed until the lime has taken a jfGnv gr^
^th9 ground. ELxpeqence has tai^ht, that by this metho4
the lime is not only kept from finking too deep, but is ^
mixed more intimately with the foil, than were it ploughed
in immediately after it is laid on the land. This parifli ii
fupplied with four meal, two lint, and three barky miD&
Moft of the land was formerly thirled to the mills at acoor
fiderable high muiturt. But thefe iervitudes were fioond to
be real grievances, and therefoie were mofiljbooi^ uf by
rfDtmmng. 437
tfie temnti, who now, in confcquence of tbas parchafe, may
tmj their grain to be grinded at what mills thejr pleafe.
Pc»^dWjbff.««Tbe population in Z775, according to Dr
Webfter's aooomt was X49& It is now about i6oo» which
makes an increafe of 109.
Cftirreiw-^The parifli church was anciently the chapel of
St Smf. It is fituated in the village of Donning,, and is
well frequented. The Earl of Kinnoul is patron; and the
Rey» John Baird is the prefient incumbent. The fiipend
lately receired an augmentation, and amounts to about a
thonfand merks in money, and four chalders of vidual,
^fidcs the pariih church, there are two places of worihip ;
the one belonging to the Burgher, and the other to the An-
tibnrgher Seceders. The Pre(byterian Diffenteis of the
Church of Scodaod are, by the general report of the re-
fpeSable writers of the StatUUcal Hiftory of this country,
deTcribed as being a peaceable and well-behaved dais of the
eoQununity This praife-worthy charaAer is juftly appli-
cable to both parties pf the Seceders in this plvc and neigh*
boorfaoodc
*
S^loal^' "The parochial Ichool, the prefent matter of
which is Mr Balmain, is very well attended. The ialary is
300 merkSf The wages, pit quarter, for reading EngUih,
are z8d«; for reading and writing, 9 s,; arithmetic, as. 6 4*
Latin, 3 s. The Rev. Mr Baird, much to bis honour, pays
particular auentioo to the ftate of the fchool, efpedally with
refpeft to the mode of teaching, the attendance and beha-
Tionr of the fieholan* and the progreis they make from
time to lime in their education. The proper and regular
inftniAion of youth ought to be particnlarly attended to by
l4l who liave any reg^ to the good, not only of indivi-
dnabf
458 StatyUcMl Ai99uni
^adiybnCorfimflljfttlaf]^. TliefMnft.iHBt'Qf theSon-
datiM bf priratfel tnd pablio Jmpyicft it Ud in tn carij
cdncatioQ, ts it it genertllj oosdofM in the parochial
fthools hi ScMl«Bd4 Habits of «tt«iitioB, applkMioQ, and
tkanliiWft >CT, acfoircd 1 the ft^tics aC the iMlengn-
dually enlarged and ftrengthened ; the yomh ava craiBed vf
to fill with propriet J an j flation of life to which thej naj
afterwards be ratftd ; and the principles of the Chrifiiaa
leHgiof^y the teaching of which' is the moft prooiinent £»•
hire of edkicatioo in parodittl fehoob, are fe deeply looted
in the fold, that they become the means of preferring thou*
bods from infidcfity, and a life of iaraiorality and wretch*
edne& The Oenerdi AflemUy of the Ghnrch of Scotfand.
fenfiUe that the inTaluahle faleffings of a religious life, and
the hfl^ineb .and permanent fecority of every wdl rega«
lated goverhmeoty are chiefly fomded in the early cdnca*
tion of every clafs of the oommonity» have wifely appoint-
^a'Prefbyterisl vifitation and examination, J^^Jt ^^
the fchools in Scotland. By means of diis, no finall en*
couragement Is given to teachers and fcholarsi and the exer-
tions of both are called forth. From the ftatt of die fehool,
it u prefumed that the youth of the parilh of Dunning wiB
be found to make confiderable progrefs in any part of edu-
cation to which they may apply themfelTCS, and that their
after life will be a ftrong proof, that the attention of their
teacher and mimftet to their literary, moral, and religious
itnprovement, has not been loft.
Poor; — ^Abottt ten paupers are ufually on the poor^Kfi.
They are fiipported by the weekly colleflions at the church,
and the intereft of a fmali fum formerly accumulated.
Their ufoal fnpply is fit>m 9 d. to x8 d. a-week .each ; but
upon extraordinary dctafioos they receive half-a-orown a-
^ireek* ' None of them are permitted to beg. Tbe chief
landed
^^umlin£. . <4^
liindttd pi^friMbfi in this 4»lMi'-<te >aat ocaii»«lj •ttwi
cm ffivite^*t¥l0tf fa die {iilf>ocliiAl tbiMh ; fe * x\M «{dik
fiMi^liere^ jur itt m^ other places^ Stt«ditid» uxfftuffpamA
b7^e^Mttiiioa6lilyii-^Ttr<^ IHeMily ibcied^, or boi^B, »
^ej ire itfbidl^ «Rlll»d^ 4re efttfb&fted in the^ pari^iy «|mI
Ami whibh th« tttembert^ belM>giiig< !• ^ihtm wh^&Iliinft
wa^i lieoifittt M rttid^f tapflj% Oiie'belMg;ito-th^wea«Br%
wsbA tfacrvAlertb^htf mafens, 'MT^e ptvUb «ad aciightow-
bobd. Bdtha^thrfviftg. Part\)rthfc(tool»i9^Ui<ae8^i4
hav in jMirehififtg aie«l« and feUkig it n littto onder market
iMeetd^e th^inbet^ol^he fiteieti^^ttiA totbe p^^r^C^fae
parilh. Too much cannot be {aid in praife of thcfe^fiiwidl^
cr charitable focietiesy as they are conduced in all the mn-
auiaaming aiffiifis^ in Scotkxrd. '
Fwibife^.'^^Tke ^incipal vUkge in dte^aftthit Dnnsfagw
It <onfiflB of <B -coofiderbblei attmber.^* boufes,^ many of
tirhSeh haVe'4>een WiVf bnilt, and are two Glories high r <^
afldar w^rk, knA etnrered with flale,' n&oftly ifr^Nn Olen*
Almond, about 20 iloilds diQant. Some of thehdoCMniie
nlegant^ttd'ctMfflddfOBSy eshftfitirrp^pecimens of tafienct
c6min6tAj to he wet with in eountty villages. In the im*
snediatt ttfeiglhb'oarhood of Duoning is -the viBage of.iV«to
FkcairH^ or Dragon*i Den^ as it is tifuidly etdled. It Is bttt
nf trceat ori^ v and'confifis of about thirty teneinen» ot-
dweHing«4ianl\d, all of whi<li, -except a very few, concahla
tuiro families^ andfonhfe^of them fonr. The ground oar
which thii^ vffls^ is built is feued^freih Mr^^raham oC
Orchil. The lou are moAly in %Mib<ired eSs fquire, far
which is paid L. x Sterling of pnrchafe-monc j, and 7 d.
u^jear'of feu-^cy. -Thehouf^ here are neat and-fcleui,
add aie^ xnoft-y coofthiftM for leavers. I^bey we buih Tor
a guinea ftr rood, (ma^on'e tneafore), wkh Icrvice, oir so s.
idthont ienr ice. Frecftone is got bv^ Vh(^re at hahd ; not
unfrequ^tly
44^ Siatiftkttl AgCBUHt
imfire^iiemlj cnt of tlic'«r^aii on ^htchtiie hod&s ire built
Mortir of earth is in numy oales the cement, escept fbr die
iBomer^ and the hewo work. Thej arei hoirevert cafi» or
iaritd with ltme» both witboat and withm. Honle^reDts,
equally here with the reft of the panfli* are rtry low. A
dwelfing-hode and ceom/with a fonr-Iooai ihojs is let from
4oa. to 50 s» a-year ; a laboorerjs boafe, weU finiflied, ii
rikout as s. at an ave»ge.<— The inhabitants <if thefe fiUs*
Iges, and of the moft part of the pwQih are fuppiied widi
coal from the coal-works at Bhiringooev in tlie paxiib of
FoflToway. The diftance from tbc^ village of Dnnnii^aboot
lamiks.
7md(^M«-^The only mannikdore carried on here is the
making a few coarfe linens for the Glafgow and Perth mar-
kets^—WeaTcrs in the pariih, 63, about 40 of whom are
employed in fiiAory work; Wrights, a8| mafons, aj;
black&niths, 4; (hoemakers, 7 ; uilors, la. The pariih is
accommodated with eight inns or public boufes, of which
number fix are in the villsge of Dunning^— The inhabi*
tants are not diflingutihed on account of any pecoKaritici
in their drels, cttftoms, or manners. They are generally of
an open and communicatiTe difpofition, indoftrious in their
labours, and generous in their iotercourfe with focietj. The
blue bonnet is not altogether out of faihion in this part of
the coontry.«-A confideraUe quantity of coarfe finen-yam
is fpun by the wom^n in the pariih, not a few of whom
fpin on the two-handed wheel, which a good many yesn
ago was introduced from Fife.
Plaea £/*A^or#.— Duncruib, the property and refidence of
Lord RoUo, holds a diftinguiihed place in the pariih : ** As
** for the antiquity of this family, John RoDo got a grant
*' of the lands of Duncruib^ and other lands, from David
««Earl
ofDihudtig.^ 441
*< Earl of Stntthen, with the confimt of King Robert, his
^ father, of the date X3th February 13&D. From the lands
^ofDmcmib the fiunily was defigned; and cbefe hmds,
** with odien, were ereAed io^o a free barony by King
^ James IV. in fkvoars of William RoUo of Duncmib, as
'' the charter bears, of the date 26th Odober 1512, From
"^ this William was lineally deibended Sir Andrew RoUo of
"" Doncmtb, who was knighted by King James VI. and
" afterwards was by King Charles L railed to the dignity
'' of Lord RdDo of Doncnisb, in the ye4r 1651." {Nif-
hefi HtraUby^ voL i. p. 324.
The hoole of KMe^ the property of the Dnimmonds of
Keltie, is not of a recent date, and is deierredly fiir-ftmed
for the genuine hofpitality of an open and generous-hearted
family.
It is believed by many of the inhabitants of thb place,
that the river Earn was anciently navigable a confiderable
way above the village of Dunning ; and fome old people
affirm, that they have feen iron rings fixed in a perpendi-
cular rock, dofe to the bottom of which the level land of
the Strath of Earn now comes. It is laid, by tradition in
the country, that to thefe rings the veflels which navigated
the river were occafionally fattened. That a great part of
tlie haugh or low ground, in the lower difirid of this pariih,
was formerly depofited by the water of the Earn, there can
be no doubt \ but that the river was navigable to the above
mentioned rock is extremely uncertain.
TTerrnavi is the moft remarkable fpot in this pariih or
neighbourhood. It is a hill, or mound of earth, rolembling
a Ihip with the keel uppermoft. It occupies many acres of
ground ; is covered with a fine fward of grals, and llrikes
the eye at the diftance of feveral miles. The name is evi-
dently a corruption of 7erra navis ; but whether given it
Vol. XIX. 3 K by
44^ Stati/tkai Accmau
hj the Ronansi or finoe they left the ucwBtry^ it i
To this place t (uperftitimit regud is MCadied by the vol-
gtf. Trtdition aflertSt that tomt tamt ago a mam atteaipc*
iag to cad divots (turf) on the fide of it, no foeacr opeBc4
the ground with the fpado» than the form off an eld naa,
fiippofcd to have been the fpirit of the mountain, made in
appearance from the openmg, and with an nngry coaate>
nanoe and tone of voice, alked the countryman vHiy he wis
tirring (uncoverfaig) bis ho|tfe over hb head ? On Coring
tbu, die apparition inftantly diiappeared. The man, it i^
reported, was fo terribly frightened, that he immediatet)r
left off the operation ; and none hm fince Tentured to di-
fturb tl^e repofe of ti^e iiQaginary fpirtl«
NUM.
tf TdnJergartb. 443
MUMBER XXL
PAHISH OF TONDERGARtH^
(STifoH Ann Coi^ytt of Uvunizs, BRE^Ynax ot
LoeaifABKK.)
By a FrSmdio Statiftical Inquiries*
Vt> i.B-.i(| I -11 -11 iiiiii I >■ Hiiw t"%
SituaHoMf Sur/acft Exiettit ixc*
THE l^ariih of Tondergartby or Tttndergarth, is about
14 miles ill lengdi» and about li miles in breadth. Ic
comprehends the declivities of a range of hills which lie
along the river Mitt. It is furrounded by the contiguous
iNuriflies qf 8t Mungo% Dryfefdale^ Huttoo, Efkdalc-muir,
Middlebie, and Hoddam. Its fiir&ce is, in level, unequal,
and beantifiillj diverfified; is in many places green and
arabk, in otbtiBy covered with heath, and not jret reduced
wider t3kfe« It is not without woods, both natural and
planted. Some marl pits have been opened in it.
Popubaion and Employm€nti.'~'On the 17th of Novem*
ber 1791, the whole population was found, upon a careful
enumeration,
444 Staijfifcdl jUcmM
enumeration^ to amount to 510 foob. The termors are m
number 37. Earl Mansfield is iiiperior of die gccafeer part
of the pariih. Mr Johoftoiviif .Gfange^BfrBrofwnof Weft-
woodi Mr Richardfon of Piercbyhall, are the pcinctpal bed-
tors ordinarilj refident in the parifli. The moA confider-
able nonprefidiag heritor is Mr Beattte of Grieve. The in-
ferior inhabitants are chiefij farmers and fann-UxMBefs.
Here are, of artifansi % black&niths, i jcuner, z ihormakfr,
5 weaver^ a tailofs. The people aie in gfneial £obcc, in-
dufirious and healthy; in Jangcvitjf fome of tlieaa itave
lived to the ages of 84, and even of 90 years.
Ar^aNrdir|f«**The hufbandrj which occupies the fitzmezs
is partly that of the ihepherd-li£e ; in part that ci agricol-
tnre. It is the Cheviot breed of (beep which is here cnlti-
vated : And of thb breed there may be between 3000 and
4000 ftcep 00 the farms in tbe pahib. The Uack catde
are of a race allied to that of Galloway ; are reared from
calves not bought in ; and may be in number about 400a
The foil b for the moft part gravelly, or of the nature of a
morab. Oats, bear, and barley, aie the gnins here culti-
vated. Lime, and dung, with fome little marl, are the or-
dinary articles of manare. The medium extent of the
farms b from ico to aoo acres. The lands are tolecd>Iy
inclofed with fione Jiiesj and here and thete wkh ditches
and hedges. Xmr, or flue, is raiied m fimdl qaandties.
Green crops, for fisillowing and forage, hav« been tried with
a fuccefi which has not £ailed to recommend the eramplr to
general imitation. In the harveft of x 795, the miaifter had,
on a field before his door, one of the fineft crops of tutnipi
that have ever been any where produced. Potatoes are alfa
raifed in very great abundance. The horfes v&d for the
draught are commonly, in value, foch as would fell in the
market from L. xa to L. 15 Sterling each.
9f T^nder^anb. 44$
R^adnmd Mdtiiis.'^^'Tk^ roads ire made attdrepaited
hj the money-convetfioii t)i li.s* tffk every 100 merks, in*
ftead of the ftatnte-laboar. From* ftnjjg^i to IMitt^ "a *^£-
taace tvf^KlDt j'^^mileS) theijie 18 ancxceBeacraad; The
market-towns to which the inhabitants wilim^ptaathuImOf
rcEofrt are, Lockerbj, Annan, Dumfries. The bhck cattle
are fold at "Dumfries, and at Lockerbj, btit mok« e%eciall j
into £nglaiid^ ' Lmeh and woollen^ dodis are, tar the greater
part, not imported, but manii&ftured hy the pe^k'for
themiHves, in die family. way. -
Rtnii a$i.FaftMi(m.ii^Th^ vwOmioa U die paxifh is
aboatS90o'mierks' Scotch; '^vDc^ teA rents ase probsUj
between L. 1700^ and L. 1800 Sterling.
Poor's F^ndr.'^Thit poor asei fuppected firom theJnteicft
of a mart^Ufi fiMid of L. 66 Steriisg^ and ontoftheSa&day'a
coUedieas in the church ^ which: are, at ordinary timeii
abooM s. 6 d* or %\,\ but at theadaual difp^fing of the Sa*
crament of the Loid's Sopper^ axidr e^ea. to I^. 3 Sterling.
Min^iTy Btmfice^ School — ^The preient minifier is the
Reverend Mr Pazton, a batehelot. His three .laft prede-
ceflbrs were, Meflrs Clarke, Jeffrey^ Fergpflbo. . The fiv-
pend confifb of L. 800 Scots in money, and two chaldeirs of
visual. There was in the year 1795 no pari(h-ibhool in
Toodergarth ; but application had begun to be made for
the eftaUiihnient of one. Among the inhabitants of the
parifli are fome few Burgher and Antiburgher SecederSp
and fome Relief people ; but none of thefe lefis have a
meetinj-honfe here.
Langu^gi<^JobnftoHi is the mod prevalent fimamein
this poiih ; and the old cofile of Toodergarth was once the
principd
44^ SMi0k0l.jkf9mu
«iAi.lHi9'«hva79hrmftp«rcl7Stxqiidia]flfta£di«old Low*
lMld.Spftltifli« fTv^itKt^Hk n a CMvomd Smoa watd,
'; :. . i • - •
fiteu^fiiumii^Ax iu w^fiefn border, tfau pBrifli dmoft
t9ili^.4i^^» 9^ the .fiioiQitt hill of JSntm/foari. That
fcttl 4lW«l. jta^qftlebcity to t>^ p»aww gf twa Ropign fiif»mp>
mentSv which appear on the eafiem tad on the wcfieni fide
of its decUvitj. The remains of theie encampmems axe
fiilL^noeeiUp^J diftJnA. - k feeios higM^ pn»babfe dat
^jrtamre^ firil ftr4M4 by the tUmans bufiigingabodyof
the ancient Britons, wha.liie4vPCCi9ied dM Jbrnioit of tfae hiU.
It was fo remarkable a ftation, that it could not £iil to be coo-
tiMMtty* otoapiod in aE fiiMbquenc wart among ibe tahahi-
taota rfthefe regiona, wfacAer contending aoioi^ thrmfrl^f^
M eppofing ftranger-invaders. Tha Aiq^lo^Saxana, the
Scotch, and Englifh, in all their border*wara» oatorally poll-
ed themifllvcs often on tha fiunmic oCBnaifwairk,*aaaplace,
by its elevation above the furroondiag ooontry, admizaUj
itCted zl once for an impregnable pofi, and &r a ftation of
profpcQ, from whidi all the movameota of forroasdiiig
enemies might be ipied.
NUM.
NUMBER XXn.
PARISH OF ANNAN, :
(Co^mrr ak» Synod of Hvfim^s, PftssftrmT 09
Airy AN.} - ' ^
Bj^ a Friend to Stati/Heal Ittptiriit.
ii »>»
SitmaiiMf ExtitUf iSe*
npHE pviih of Annan lies almoft imoiedifttcly upon the
^ neareft Soocdlh fliorc of the Solwa^ Fcidi. It is
bounded 00 the £« by the patiflies qf Domock and Kirk«
psttrick-Fkoiing ; on the N. hj AfidiUeby and Hoddam ^
on the W. hj Cummertrees } at itt foathem extremity
it extends, for its grcateft breadth, 3 miles along the coaft ;
its gmteft lengdi is 8 miks.
SaU^ Smrfac9% Coafi^ RivirSt Vc.— The riTer Annan b-
terfeds this parifli, forming, at the place of its influx into
the frith, the port of Annan, an excellent natural harbour.
There are alio fome lew brooks. The highcft tidei rife
from z6 to 91 feet above the level of lQW*water. The fur-.
Saco
44JB Sta^fikal Account
hiot is gencnUy low and flat. Woodcock- Aifbill, howercr,
fifes to fiMnethmg of clevadon. The finl is day, (andj,
pea^eaIth» or a muKttiie of tbefe. There are fome .trafis of
heath-covered miiir. Woodcock- Airhill has been (danled
with wood ; and on the banks of the river Annan ait alfo
feme ftxipes of plsttiting. It was once tried to prepare kdp
from the lea^weeds growing on the coaft, but the fearweeds
were fannd not fnffidentlj pkntifol to encourage the oooti-
aoed proffBOHtioo of this -undertaking. Her^are CKcikat
freefbme quarries, limeftoae, and granite.
PoftJttiwUf HmicrSf Farming C/c. — The popolation of
die whok patifli may amount to abont ^500 firnls. The
heritors pajing ftipend are 60 in number } of whom die
moftconfideraUe are, the Earl of Hopetoun, Mr Irvin of
Bonfhaw, Colonel Dirom of Mount-Annan, the Earl of
lisMfidd^Mr Camitketa of WarmanbytiAr Shacp of Hod-
dam, Sir Charles Douglas, Mr John Macmurdo, There
are about 97 or xoo fumers fomilies ; but few hinds or cot-
tagers.
The Tbwff .^— The town of Annan, one of the moft anckot
burghs in Scotland, and which, in conjunAion with Loch-
maben, Dumfries, Kirkcudbright, and Sanquhar, fends a
member to the Britilh Parliament^ contains widiin the
town, and upon this burgh-roods, t6ao Ibuls out of the
whole population of the parifli. It ppflefles ^tij eztenfive
burgh-roods, which are, in great part, very in^er&ttj cul-
tivated. There is a vaft common, open to all the inhala-
tants for paflure, peats^ and divois\ of which the divifioa
and appropriation, although repeatedlj propofed, have M
lleen flrennoufly refifted. The revenue of the town is about
L. 300 Sterling a-year, arifing from tolls, fiflieries, asd.feo-
duties* Its houfes are in general de<ient and weD-buib.
A
of Annan. :449
A few fidlora belong to it ; and there are 5 floops, the propertj
of inhabitants of the town or bnrgh-ioods. There are like-
wife two ferry-boats employed for paflage to and from the
coaft of Cumberland. The burgh, not long fince, fupplied,
as its proportion, two lailon to the royal navy. It has in
it fonr writers \ one furgeon ; a fchoolmafter, whofe emoln-
ments are, of falary and fubfcription, L. 40, of wages, L. 25.
The port is comprehended within the diflrift of the cuftom-
honfe of Dumfries. Day<labourers are fupplied from the
town, for moft of the farm-work in the country part of the
pariih. The occup^ions of its other inhabitants are thofe
of merchant and ihppkeeper, weaver, blackfmith, tailot,
joiner, fhoemaker, tanner, currier, clog-maker.
jF|^A«rt#x.-«-Tbe fifliery, on the coaft and in the river, af-
fords employment and fubfiftence to many of the inhabi-
tants of this pariih. The fifiieries are let at the annual rent
of L, 210 Sterling. A curious fpecies of net is ofed here
for taking (almon, both at the flowing and during the ebb-
ing of the tides. B^fide felmons, which are plentiful and
ezcelkntf hirlings, muflels, flounders, cod, whitings, prawns,
feate, and Ibmetimes turbot, are found on this coaiL
Estporii and Imports.-^^Thc articles of txport are, pott-
toes and grain to Liverpool, Whitehaven, and the Frith of
Clyde} freeftone to Ireland; black-cattle, cotton-yam,
(hoes, and dogs, to the contiguous inland parts of England.
In return are imported^ merchants goods in general from
liverpool ; London goods by the way of Newcaftle and
Garlifle ; iron and timber in deals from Gottenburgh.
Rondu This pariih is interliefied by great roads pafling
between Dumfries and CarHfle, between Annan and £din«
bargh by Mofiat, between Annan and Edinburgh by Lang-
Vox.,XI2^ jL holm.
}ieltn. (^ dw freat roads are toU-bars. The cnA midi
are made and repaired bj th^ coDTerfion-moiiejr for tte
.Ibtfite-labour, which is at the rate of 3 d^ for e^ery paand
. Sterling of real rent, from the inhabiunts of the bargh; and
12 s. on each 10^ merks of v^attontfr^mtiio landwsr^
part of the pariib,
jigrkuU^rff Caak^ Servanis^ Av^-^-The farma are of
^all extent : One only pays fo large a rent as Ia 100 tr
year. The average rent £rona the kmdwar4 part of the
partfli runs from 3 s. to 25 s. an acre ; The average reat of
the burgh-roods is from so s. 6 d. to 506« ao acre. The vages
of fervants ^re, to men-fervfuitSi with their boardiiigt from
|« 6 to L« 10 a-year \ to maid-fervants, equally with their
board» from L, 3 to L« 5 a^year. Day4aboisrers receive,
with their vidnals, lod. a-day; and for feTe|« labour,
without viduals» 1 9. 6 d« Black cattle are tbe chief aai-
mal fiock of the farfn^ ; are reared genemUy firom calves
within the pahih ; and have been multiplied in cbeir num-
bers fince green crops and ibwn grafies came into ufe hefe.
Horfes are ufed here, as in other places, for work and ri*
ding } Tome few are bred and rei^red from foak Wtthia tbe
pariih« Barley 4s the chief article of white crop; oats
come next in ^nanttty after barler ; here is aUb a little
wheat r^ifed and exported, Potatoes are pi^occ4 in P^
quantities. Many hogs are fed, killed, cured for bacoo,
and in Ihis (late exported. Here arc b^ few (beep*
Rotatn^ Q/'CVe^r^^-Peafe, beans, and tun^ are the ar-
ticles of fallowing green crop. Lima, dung, foaM Kttie
marl, and (leech fro^a the fea*|bore, are the ufual articks of
manure. The rotation of culture is, x. Potatoes, turnips,
or a fallow with manure ; %. Wheat or barley, and with it
graiihiceds i 3. One crop of l^iy | 4. A top-dreffing with
QUioorei
ifAnnM. 451
llMilllift \ 5« from j to 5 yean, paftiire ; 6. Two faoceffive
trhiu cropsy commoDly oats ; 7. Retorn to the commence-
0Mat of eke (amc rotation. It is a compoft which is ofed
lor tbc top*>dreffing. Inclofures have become general, al-
^houfh but latelj ; they are made with ditches and hedges)
and in (!fm« places with dry done walb* .
Ho%f99^ Modi ofLivimg^ Vc^^-'^Soch farm-hoofes as have
been lately boilt are good and commodious, and of one or
two ftorias* The ofl^-houfcS are arranged in fqnares^
with large open (beds for black cattle^ Servants and mas-
ter eat commonly at the fame table. The farmer^s bun^
day (Rothes are of Englifli cloth. Peati and coal are both
commonly nlcd for fuel. The coal is fold at 7 s. 6d. for
Che ton of 13! cwf* The climate and fit nation are recko%>
•d healthy. Epidemical feveri are unknowns Confun»ptiQa
§xA ague are rare* The harvcft b generally early^ In tb^
year {78a, the crops were plantifol. There is on the river
stotton-worky about which from 100 to 130 men, woraeiit
and children, are commonly employe4. One or two wei^
vers in the town mannfsAure fome checks.
AntifHttui and Biftwy^^Annan^ the name of this town
and parilh, feems to have been primarily the name of the
river only. Its radical fy liable ]% one of thofe words which
were nfed in the ancient Britifb tongue to iignify fimply
VMHtTf or a river. Annan was probably a Roman fladon^
the Veromum of the anonymous geographer of Ravenna*
It feems to have been fiill occupied by the Britons of the
Wefi« after the departure of the Romansg till they were fuU
dned by the Anglo-Saxons of Northumberland. When
the kingdom of Northumberland was overthrown, Annan
fiall into the pofleflion of the Scotch. While Cumberland,
and the greater part of Northumberlandi were poflelTtrd by
Malcoltfi
45^ Statiftkat Acemml
Malcom Canitorey and hb (bccefiVm, to William the tiofii
Annaa was, as well as Carlifle, one of their prindpol ports^
It was foon after obtnoed ia fief^ with the whok territoiy
of Annandalet and the port of Lochmaben, by the anoeftor
of King Robert Bruce. The Braces built here a flatdj
caftle^ of which the nuns ftill remain. Bj the foooeffion of
the Bruces to the Scottifli throne, Annan became a rojral
burgh, obtaining then thofe priTileges vriitch it has erer
fince retained. Edward Balliol, during hb attempts t6
wreft the kingdom from young David Bruce, was fiurpriied
at the Caftle of Annan by a fudden expedition of the Doo-
glaffes from Moffat, and with difficulty made his eicape out
of (heir hands, flying naked and alone into England. Whik
fhe Douglaffes were wardens of thefe marches, all Annan*
dale was theirs ; and Annan, although a royal burgh, codU
not refift their authority. After their forfeiture, it became
fubjcA chiefly to the Johnftones, with whom it has, m a
great meafure, ever finoe remained. And yet the cxten-
five burgh domains render the burgefles of Annan almoft
independent of the landlords of the furrounding coontxy.
Many remarkable military tranfafiions of the border-war-
fiire between the Scotch and EngUfli took place at Annan*
and in its vicinity. Annan was one principal refidence af
thofe bold men of Annandale, famous in the Scottifli hif-
tory for exercifing fuch conftant warfiure with the En^iik
borderers, that they became, even in refpeft to their Scot-
^Sk neighbours, incapable of the order, the moderatioii, the
civil fubmiflion of peace.
NUM.
qftarhoUofu 4$$
NUMBER XXin.
PARISH OF TARBOLTON,
(CouKTT dF Ayr, StiioB of Glasoow and AtKi
Presbytery of Ayr.)
£^ a Friend t6 Staiiflicat Inquirteu
Situation and Extent^ lie.
Tn£ pariih of TarboKon, fituated in Kyle, the middle
diftrift of AyTlhirey furrounded by the pariihes (tf
Craigie, Mauchlin, Stair, Coyltoo, St Quivox, and Monk-
ton, is ft high-lying traft of ground, of between feven and
eight miles in length, and about fix in breadth. It is aboat
five miles from the fea-coaft ; and its elevation above the
level of the fea, feems to exceed the middle height betweea
the higheft and the lowed parts of the county. Its ancient
and natural afped has evidently been fufficiently rude and
wild \ bare and uniheltered ; varied with frequent inequi*
litics of fur&ce \ marlhy in the bollows, on the heights
overgrown.
4|« StmyUMJutmt
a^cigrowtt with headi. But die rode mrpeft of natllfe ihi
bcre, loag fince, given plaee to tlie beaodet and die weahh
of iniuilrloiis cnldvadM*
Nmmbit ^tU ImhMtamh C/r.~The nmiber of die is-
babittnts of diis pariih wat. i^ die year I7J5» abovt 1365.
It hat beeo fince radier dimtoiihed than aogineoted, and
may be at {irrlent cakidated not gready to exceed laoo 9
of whom about 450 are inhabitants of the village of Tar-
bokott. The i«nter# ave 19 1 and of thefe ibe iwindpt
are, the Earl of Eglbloii, U(Aj C^fenol Montgomety of
Coilsfield, Mr Cttnningham of Enterkine, the Marqnk of
Titchfield, Mr Cooper of Smithftone, the hein* of Colond
Hunter, Dr Hunter of Pack, Ci^ain DavidliM of Dram*
ley, Mr Neil! of Scbaw. The fmrmers are in flumbcr
about 130. In the village ate Several JheUmg-maim.
Around it are the pofleffiont of feveral of thdfe fknall pro-
prietors, who are ufoally diAingniihed by the appellatiaB
p{ farfioturs. Here is % farmer foetHj^t for the porpofes of
die friendly focieues now common in Scotland t as aUs s
fmrwur eMf for the ends of agricultnral improvemeat. la
the village are two nmfim 4n^M«
4mmaiSio€k mud FoAMsm^— The amoial ftook on tfat
lands in the pariih has been rackoned at about 386 bories,
1809 c#ws, and 500 ibeep. The valued rent is betweea
I*. 7060 tnd I*. 8000 Soocdi.
Dairia. —The capital (pecies of induft^ followed by dr
jfonnen, is, the management of jcaitle for the pfea of the
dairy. The /eqfgs are oommooly for nineteen yeais, aad
Tcfirift the tenanuto the generally received modes of col-
livadon. The cows are of a raoe £unooa for the abwid*
ance of their oulk# Tl^ejrare Irt^oendy bandied^ and
have
gioui qaaatity of bntter ai»4 ditcfe M nnotUj Jnaie hem
far iUe : And in xbm |irfetnmtkMi of thefe wticksy tht pt6*
pie of this pariOi, at weH as the other inhabkims of tfai|
ViiddledilkriftoCAyrflitre, wtt wdl knotvtt to excel tbi
; of every ottier jfut of SeetfamL
jlgrkwkmriy>*^Bmrlg^ end eeft ere t|ie pievakflt ertidii
of gratn-€rop» The leads ere cerefoUy fubdivided end in«
ctolbdy here end thefee with hedgewrofv* of trefs tiid helit of
plentiagA Fviainfi are the principal esticb of gietn erop \
eaMNig other varietiet of the potetee» thete it parrioderlf
• beemifhl long white one^ very ad vanttgeonfty in lA hero* '
The gaedens aford ahoadanee of pi|)fe and pol-herbi* Tht
tUnmtiiM here^asemnnd tfckilpeftemQonft IB general* teoiftp
end fehjeft to fire^oeat raioa. Yet it it fuflkiendy genialt
ibr in the middle i>C September in the year 1795, the heiv
eeft w» move than one half adveaeed* Hie fiil it n re4-
diih kern ; end here end there are coofiderable ftrau of
^eareerth. The enltnre o| htrmpi^ aa e orop in forage
end for fiJlowii^, is not yet folly eftsUUbed in this paciflii
but begins to be continually more and more adopted.
pemmodiott^y arvanged in e fijeafe, open in front ; and h»>
iring, on this fide, before the door of the dweUmg^honfoy e
fmooth green, e pond of water, and die dunghiU. They
ere coveted with thatdiiag, and are nfiially one ftory in
be^t. Sown gtafts ere univetfally in nie throi^hoat
chisperiih. The common proportion between the gnii
end the com in the egriooltnre of % farm, gives coo-third
of the arable ground to the latter *, to the former two-thirds.
fim^ ioit m^ni^re, is pot iudeed found within the pariih ;
hot 18 dbuined ingtcat abnndtnoey and at aroifonalikprioe,
ia its imipediate neighbourhood. Piois and fk-coai are
tiip common fuel ; the Jatter is obtained in plenty from do
great diflanoe. .. It is: in one quarter only, of the parifli that
iarlgf has been found to anfwer as an article of crop. The
inhabitants ate, in gener^» a floot» healthy, cleanly, good*
looking people, not ill educated, and flill imprelTed with a
gteat and ferions refpeft for the ordinances of religion.
- MarJhts and Roads* The neareft maritt towns are, Ayr,
Irvine, Kilmarnock, and Maochlin, The crofs roads are
numerous, well laid, and kept in good condition i but with
tills difadvantage, that they are condofted without any dif-
tinftioui indifferently up heights,, and down into hollows.
Ayrfhire, abounding in coal and limeftone, demanded for
the conveyance of thcfe, good roads, at a time when, id other
parts of Scotland, roads wene not thought to be wordij of
great attention in parilh-police ( and when fuoh attcntioa
had not yet been paid to them in this country, as was ne^
oeflary to difcover how much better it is to eondud a roai
round the bate of a hill, than over itt fummit.
Minifter and School^ Wr. — The prefent pariih mmiftcrof
Tarbolton is the Reverend Mr Ritchie. The church is in
a decent condition. A new manfe has juft been built ixx
the prefent incumbent. The value of the benefice does
not. exceed L. 150 a-year,,nar yet fall greatly ihort of it.
The pariihioners, from the highefi to the lowcft, give a
decent and diligent attendance at church. The pariA
Ichoolmailer's emoluments may be about L. 50 a-jear.
LatxR, arithmetic writing, the reading of Engliih, are taught
in the fchooL
« •
CoffeSiosa
^f Tarbo&otu 457
^oDiSinm fw ibe Poor— The average Sunday coQec-
tions for the poor are from xas. to 15 s. in amount. At
the difpenfation of the Sacrament, and upon other eztraor-
binary occafionst the coUedion ariCps to from L. a to L. 5.
Antiqmtiis.f'^Tarhobon was mod probablj a fiation of
the Danes, at that remote period of our ancient hiftorj,
ivben thefe people pofiefled all the northern and wefiem
iiles adjacent to Scotland, and even confiderable pofls and
pofleiBons npon the ihores of the mainland. Clofely con-
tiguous to the Tillage is a mount, now named Hood^s Hilif
which ftrikingly exhibits the appearance of an old Daniih
encampment an^ fortification. Adjacent, at no great dis-
tance, within the beautifully ornamented grounds which
fnrround the houfe of Coilsfiif4f ve a fcene, which the tra-
dition of the country relates to have been a field of battle ;
and a fione held in veneration as the monument of oU King
CoiL It may more probably have been the fixne of a bat-
tle between the Banijb invaders, and the old Cadic inha-
bitants of the country. The rude fione miijr have been
originally placed to cover the body of fome chieftain, al-
though not that of him to whom it is aferibed. Tarbolton
^as perhaps the boundary between the Dmet and the GasL
Kykt the name of the difirid, was probably firft impofed
upon it, in refpeft to the people inhabiting it, and in con-
Cradiftinftion to Cunningham^ tlM name of the adjoining
diftrid,' which was more permanently occupied by the
Danes. Near to the vilUge of Tarbolton fiands the ruined
mooaflery of F£al£, having btfide it a (mall hamlet of
oottages. It is laid to have been a cell or priory depend-
ent upon Paifley, and belonging, by confequence, to the
Black Montis o£ Clugnu I know not whether it may not
rather be the lame with that priory of FaUefurd^ to which
Vol. XIX. 3 M John
45^ Statiflical Account
John Graham, laird of Tarbolton, and Steward of Kjlci
graoted the patronage of the chnrch of Tarbokoo, bj a
charter, dated at Failefmrd in the year 1337, and afterwards
confirmed at Dundonald in the 3 ear 1368, bj John £«rl
of Carricki afterwar4s King, bj the name of Robert tbe
Third."
KUM.
Of iAttgforgan^ 459
NXJMBEK. XXir
tAktSii OF LONCJFORGAN,
I^CovNTT OF Perth, Stwod or Angus avd Mearms,
Preuttert or Duxdee.)
By a Proprietor in tie Pari/b^ a Friend to Statijlicai
Infuiries*
Siitia^ion and Extent.
TH^ parifli of Longforgsin lies on the foath-eail comer
of the county of Perth, in the preftjterj of Dundee^
and fjnod of Angus and Mearns. It is bounded on the S*
hj the river Taj, on the W. by the united pariihes of Inch-
ture and Roffie, and the parifli of Abemyte; on the N. bj
the parifli of Kittens ; and on the £• by the nnited parifliaf
of Fowlis Eafler and Lundie, and of liiFand Benvy. Iti
fliape is irregular. Its greateft length 7 miles, and its
greateft breadth about. 3^ miles ; but in fome places it is fo
narrowi that the whole parifli does not conuin above 7000
^cres.
Nam^0
460 Stai^ai Awnaa
Nami.^^The derivation of the name Forgaa baknoum^
but it moil be verj ancienty and appeals to havjC been ori-
ginally called Forgnnd, from a grant of Ac lands and baio-
nj of Longforgnnd to Sir Andrew Gmj of Broxmoodit b/
King Robert Brucet in the year IJIS* The e^diet Xon^f
probabIj7 is applicable to the village only, to diftingfnfli it
from others of the fame name.
Contents. — tt contains the eflates of Caftle Hontly and
Monorgan, Drimmici MilHiiH, Knap, Droo, and litdeton^
Mylnefield» Lauriflon, LochtoOi two Ballos^ two Newtons,
and Temple Hall.
RetU and Hiritots.-^Thc valued rent is L. 7154 : 6 : &
Scotch. The real rent would be difficult to afcertain, but
it may be about L. 7000 Sterling per annum^ which wiD
moft probably be confiderably increafed when the prefait
kaies are expired. There are eleven heritors, fix of wboD
Jtfidet the reft do not.
CKmate^Tht climate^ in the lower part of this pnrifli is
mildy Diow (eldom lying above a week at a time ; but in
' the hilly part it is lels fo» There, the foow lies much
longer in winter,, and there is at leaft three weeks differ*
cAce between the ripening of the crops above and below
tfie hills. All over the pariih, however, the weather is
various, and frequently changes very confideraUy two or
three ^a»esin a day. The winters are neither long nor
levere. The {prings are ibort. In the month of May, and
beginning of June, cold eafterly vnnds prevail; but in
general the weft and fouth-weft winds are the moft preva-
lent through the year. In June and July, the weather is
warm and fine. About the beginning of Aoguft rains are
frequent ; but the autums are fine, and firofis feldom fct in
very fisveie till after Chriftmas
Annexed
of Longfofgan.
Co
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3 winter
montfas.
3 rummer
months.
Through
the year.
3
?
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South.
S.Wcft.
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N.Weft.
Mod pre-
valent in
a year.
k>\M k«u« »* MM 5i^>*^5J *l I Quant, in
00 O 00^ U4 M vo a\4* vp *;» I vc»?»"^- in
fl-i^*H-"H-i^H-H-«t*i''«<-H- I inches.
I
i> r.
a a
461
o '^
III
IH
? fr s^
&^
•a *^8
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^ 5- g*
s
< ST -:••
5 g 8"
£»o- 3.
§ 3
%6t Statifticat Account
Surface^ HiOs, — ^The furftce o£ the parifli is rtrj imgu«
Ian Its fouthern boundary upoo the Tay to the eaftwardf
b bold and fieep, which ends in the rocky promontoty of
Kingoody* From that point a beautiful bank rifes, and as
it procced^north and weft, it takes the Ihape of a creficent,
and ends In a bluff point* at a place called the Snabs of
Drimroie, about 3 miles from its beginning, belowl which,
and between it and the river Tay, the forface is a perfed
plain, its loweft part upwards of 20 feet above the bed of
the river, and forms the eaftcrmofl part of that fertile vale,
well known by the name of the Carfe of Gowpe. About
half a mile north from the village of Longforgan, this bank
finks into a narrow vale, which runs acrois the pariih, and
from which rifes a range of hills, which may be confidered
as part of the Sidlaws. Thefe divide Strathmore from the
Carfe of Gowcie, and end at Perth. There are three re«
markable hills in this pariOi, Dron, Ballo, and Lochtown.
The firft is 667 feet; the fecond, 992 feet) and the lafi,
ziya feet above the level of the fca.
Riven f Fijbingt^ and Rivulets, ^^Thtrc is no river con*
neded with thb parifli but the Tay, which bounds it on
the fouth for nearly three miles. It is here between two
and three miles broad, and when the tide ebbs, it leaves
near a mile of dry fand between its bank and the dream or
current of the river. At prefent, the river Tay is famoos
for its excellent falmon, from Enrol upwards ; and again,
where it narrows near the Gaftle of Broughty, about three
miles below Dundee ; but none are caught now where it
bounds this parifli ; although formerly there might have
been fome, as the right of fifliing for falmon is attached b/
charter
^f LongforgafU . 4^3
charter to the eftate of Monorgaa^. Three rivulets alfo
take their rife in this pariih f.
Minerals, — Hitherto nothing has been eztrafted from the
|)Qwels of the earth in this parifh but flone and ihell marl;
but there are feveral mineral fprings, particularly about
Caftle Hutttlyy vrhich are ftrongly impregnated with iron ;
and from the red colour of the foil in many parts, and frpm
the weight and appearance of ftones found very near the
furface, there is every reafon to believe that the bank, of
Forgan abounds with iron ore.
Stone
* If ever falmon were c&ught in that part of the river which bounds this
parifh, it muft bt^c been at a very remote period, probably before the Tay
formed its junction with the Erne at Inctfyra, and when the Carfe land ex-
tended much farther fouth, and occupied a great part of wh%t now forms
~ the bed of the river Tay,
f Two of thefc rivulets rife from one point, dire^ly north from Long-
forgan, in that vale which runs acrofs the parifli. One, taking an eaftern
direAion, unites with the bum of Benvy, fouth of Giay, turns two com-
tnills, a fulling-mill, and one flour-mill ; and after ferving as a boundary
between the counties of Perth and Forfar, for a great part of iu courfe, it
empties itfelf into the Tay at Invtrgowrle Bay. The other, running weft-
ward, enters Lord Kinnaird*s park in the parifli of Roflie, where it falls im-
mediately into a larger ftream, which takes its rife in the upper part of this
parifli, and which, in its courfe, before the junction, turns five com-mills,
four lint-mills, one barley-miU in this parifli, and one threfliitig-mill b the
parifli of Roffie. After they are unitM, they continue in a weftem direc-
tion as far as the Old CafUe of Moncur, aud aif there joined by the bum
of Balledgamo. This united ftream there takes a foutherly dire^ion, and
for a confiderable way divides the two pariflies of Inchture and Longfbrgan.
It again cnten this parifli, and proceeding eaftwavd, paiies through the
parks of Caftle Huntly, turns a com mill at Monorgan, afler which, its
ftream, being guided by a canal, dug within flood*mark, at a confidenble
expence, within thefe few years, it waflies the harbour of Kiogoody, and
empties itfelf into the Tay fouth of Mylnefield, under the name of the Bum
•f Monorgan, but in the chaiten and old writings it is called the Bum of
Monnoua. This bursi through its whole coinfe, abounds with excellent
fifvt.'
464 Siatj/Hcul Acctmnt
Simi ^uarria* — ^The flofie qaarries ia this parifli tie
manj and various, but the principal is at K^ingoodj, upon
the eftate of Mylnefield, which is perhaps one of the befi in
Great Britain *•
There
• The Kingood J ftooe it of a s'cytfli colour, called Vf miaemlu^ifti
Grain-ftone ; it is difiiailt to work ; hard and durable to an uncoBtt
degree; To much fo, that the fine old tower the fteeple of Dundee, whiu
was bnxlt of it in King David the Second's time, has (hown fcarce any fjmp
toms of decay, except where the infinence of the town atmosphere reaches.
Caftle Huntly, fuppofed to be built in 145a* has fcarce a fione in it which
has yielded to the influence of the weather ; and a gate at that place, built
pf Kingoodyftone, by Earl Patrick of Strathmore, 130 years ago, is crowned
with four pyramids, the points of which appear perfe^ly entire at this day,
(1797}, not meafuring more in diameter than r-i6th of an inch. Thefe
are only a (lew amongit many inftances of its durability. It produces Aonc
of all fizes, and for every purpofe of building, as it aflfbrds blocks of 50 feet
in length by 16 in breadth ; alfo ftone for pavements, millftones, flate% &c.
In this ({uarry fome ftone is raifed of a bluifli caft, of an exceeding fine
grain, and capable of a poIiHi, little (hort of fome marble. The deeper in
the quarry the ftone is the better ; it is foft below water-maik* and it it
cafier worked, but hardens in the common air.
The beft ftone in this quarry feems to lie in a north-eafterly direction, but
as its bed proceeds north and weft, it degenerates, at leaft it appears fo, u
lar as it has yet been traced. About a mile weftwiund below Longlbrgan,
it has the appearance of reddifti granite ; but it is foft, and fiwms to yield to
the hammer, and diilblves fo entirely with fn^ion and moifture, tliat it has
been found totally unfit for metalling roads, but it has been ufed, and docs
very well for building common village-houfes ; farther weft it }ias man of
that red colour, and becomes hea^, as if it tended to iron Qre.
Mr Mj^lne, the proprietor, employs from fifty to fixty hands in tbe qpMjry
of Kingoody ; four boats for tranfporting fione, which are navigated by
nine hands, and not only fends ftones to the whole extent horn Mbotrole to
Perth by water, but like wife for 15 or 16 miles of country round by land-
carriage. He alfo fends confiderable quantities to F.ii|rlai>5l • uid lataly
undertook, by contradl, to fumifli ftones from this quarry to two navigable
cinals, the one called the Gippon's Navigation, near Ipfwich; the other,
the ChelmesCord Canal, near Maldon, in Eilex. He has built a confiderabk
village upon the ^ot for the labourers the iph^^tyitaati of which at prdyent
aowifnt to xz6 of all ages«
AMKM«h
pf tofif organ. 46*
lliere are alfo ia this parilh feveral otheir flone-quarrie).
tjpoa the eftates of Dron and Ballo, the done is good, du-
rable, and excellent for everj purpofe of building. At
Millhill, the done is fbft, and of a biuifli eaft, which does
not (land the weather^ but fplits into Coiali lamelte upon
being expofed. However^ it aiifwers very well for infide
walls, and, if under cover, will lait many jrears* At Lai»-
rifton, the ftone inclines to a dufky black, is much harder*
and, when polUhed, has the appearance of marble. It is a
real limeftone, but not very ftrong ; however, were coals, ,
or proper fuel near enough to bring the burning within a
reafonable expence, it might anfwer very well- fielow the
Bank of Forgan there are feveral rocky protuberjbces, all
of them a very hard bluifli whin^ very difficult to raife ;
and although fome of them have been ufed for village hou-
fes, yet, as there is no working them either with the ham-
mer or the chiflel, they have been principally ufed for the '
turnpike, and other public roads. Caftie-Huotly is built
upon one of thefe roekytminenoest
Vol. XIX. 3N Marl.
Aldioagh it does not properly belong to this {Ntper to interfere with the
bofineis of revenue or finance, yet, as the fubjedl is curious, it is worth while
to remark, that owing to the interpretation put upon the wording of the Ute
iSt of Parliament, for impofing a duty upon ftone fea-bomq» by the re-
▼enueo^cers, the ciporution of ftone from this quarry/ in all proibabiUty,
will foon be at an end. For, although the whole revenue arifing to Co-
veoonient, betwixt the sth day of July 1794 and the 5th day of July 1795,
from this dnty« was only L. t6 : x8 : 3), yet, from the diftance between
Kingoody and the ports of Perth and Dundee, ftsch is the difficulty of pro-
curing coaft-difpatches for a cargo of ftone, worth only 17 s. and not ex*
ceeding 10 d per tOn in value, as to prolong a voyage, performed, belbre
the commencement of this adl, in twelve hours, to three days. Whatever
reafons Govemmetit may have for continuing this a^ as it is at preieat^
4ors not fall within our province to lay ; but although of very fmall im-
port to them, it is a very material concern to the proprietor, and his eo^
ployers ; for, in the year above mentioned, this duty alone occafioncd a de-
lay of work eijual to twenty tunes the valae of the duty paid.
466 Statijiical Accwfa
ACsr/,— There has been found in this parilh a cxnSAtf*
able qiiancitj of flielUmarl, vttj pure and white. Ths
prefeni proprietor of Caflle-Hnntly has fold near 60,000
, bolls, at 8 d« and 9 A^p§r boO, (m cube of two feet), fince
the year 1779 ; but it i» now exbaufted, or lies fo deep, it
IB not worth the working* In the bed containing tfak marlr
feme red deers horns were found feme years ago, uBcom-
monly large*
Coal. — ^There is alfo s tradition, that theft are eoabst
Myrefide in this pariib^ and that fome satempts to difeover
them were begun in 1715, but feiled from fome canfe, now
unknown. However, a very ingenioos chymift, latelj,
was fo felly pediiaded that coab might be fennd in the le-
"vel groiuids below Forgan, that he made fome propo&b to
work them at his own expence, but certain remfoos made
she proprietors drop any attempt for the time*
Growing Timber. — ^Up«n evevy eAate in this psfifli there
are great plenty of fine growing timber, of all ages, and ?s^
rious kinds, fuch as oak, afli, elm, plane, poplar, lime^
horie-chefnute, waloute,^ beech^ fir, larix, mountain-aih, Ij-
bemum, &e. many of them from xoo to ijo years of ^r
particularly at Longforgan, MylnefieM, Caftle-Hondy, and
at the houfe of Drimmie \ and affo in hedge-rows all orer
the pariifa, befides about 600 acres of fine thriving young
plantations, from 20 to 40 yeavs old *;
Marjb
* In the year 1743, A ruirey tvas ttken of the growing tfmber on the eftstr
#f CaiUcHuntly, then Caftle-Lyon. It was found to contain 8557 ^'^^ ^
all fom, valued at L. 1813 : 5 : 1. Amongil nhefe were a great miabcr of
Iweet chefnut trees, which were fold fome time afterwaidsy and were
Wught up by fliip ciipcnten, who confidered them as good, if not better.
fi>r the porpofe of fliip-building than oak. Ihcre axe- a much greater nam-
pf Longforgan. 467
Marjb RmA-— A fpecies of the mrundo^ called pbragmites^
<K common marfli-reed, and whteh grows bj the fides of
rivers, or in Handing waters, is found in great abundance
here. Of late years it has been propagated upon the banks
of the riyer Tay with great fucceis, particularly at Errol
and Seafide; and ever fince the threlhing-mills have been
eftabliflied, which totally difqualify the wheat-firaw for
thatch, the propagation of reeds has been an objed of confi-
derabk importance to proprietors, for they are fiold at a
guinea for one hundred bunches, each meafuring one yard
round, and they are fure of a ready market for as many as
they can raife ; and the introdufiioo of reeds for thatch is
attended with this advantage to £inliers, diat the wheat-
ftraw is now condemned to the dung-court, and is applied
where it ought to be, to increafe the manure of the farm *•
Orcbards.
ber of trees upon llie Dune eftate now, Imt lihey hive not been valued.
AnKmgft otfaen, ^re ate ibme rtrj remarkable, fuch as an afli, called
ObmHs tree, wliidi meafiiRs 17 feet round, near die root, and 17 feet a
^ard high ; another afli, 19 feet round near the root, and 14 a yard high ;
elms, ti ftct; hoHe-cfaefbuts, 10 fieet; poplars, 10 feet; firs, 9 feet;
planes, 9 ftct ; yews, 6 feet ; lime, 7 feet diree inches ; thorns, 6 feet ; one
thorn, 6 frft to inches ; all taken at about 3 feet from the ground. One
fir, ata yaid fiom the ground, 13 fiiet 6 inches ; dofe to the ground, 19
feet; and ^ diameter of tl)e top is ta yards. And, within tbefe few
years, planes have been fold for L. 13 and L. 14 each ; and fin cut down
containing 90* and a beech blown down this year (1796), containing X17
cubic ftet of flseaford>]e wood in their trunks.
The oaks, in genrral, are young ; none, or very few, above 50 or 60
years old : but they thrive remarkably well, particularly in the clay ; as a
proof of whidi, there are nuny upon the eftate of Gaftle-Huntiy, phnted
from the nurfery in 1761, which meafure from 4 to 5 feet round. The
lufia is but lately introduced here ; but it dirives well, and upon every kind
of foil. There aie great plenty of walnuti, the fhiitof which npens well
m general*
* About 10 years ago, the late Mr Renry Crawford of Monorgan made
the M. attempt to pUat reeds upon the fides of the Hiy, which bound* this
pariibt
urcoaras*"^ mere are qvc orcnaros in uic panuiy au m
a thriving condition, particcilarl^ at Monorgan, ivhich is
reckoned the belt in the Carfe of Gowrie, ai^d l^ks been
iatnous \h,^it i^any jears for jieldiiig fine fruity
Horticyhure. — The only gardens in this parifli worthy of
Dotictf are at CaiileUuptly. Xhcre are above 300 feet of
glafs; a melon-pit, of ao feet bj 12, worked by fleam
alone, without uung, and plenty of peaches, nedarins, apri-
cots, figs, almonds, and other frviits, which ripea on th(f
9pen wall*
Steam M^r/o^i*///.— As the fleam melon-pit is rather new,
it may be an ui'etui information to (ay, that the pit is i(k
feet
pariih, but with9ut fuccds i «n4 although h^ phntcd manj ^rei» t T07
imall fppt only, upon th? weitermoft potot of the eftate has productd anj
thing like a crop. X9 ^^kt reeds thrive, two things are aecdiary; i/t A
certain depth oi ^at kind of foil which riven depofit ; xaA^2d, A ivftcieat
fence, to prote<fl both the foil itielf, and the new planted recd% froai the
violence of the flux and reflux pf the tid^. Mr Ciawfc^d thought it wooU
b(. fufficicnt to carry out into the river fences made of the, '^reothop of
young firs, cut into ftal^cs, anf driven deep into the foiU (or dfieX, ts it is
^Ued here), and wattled with the fmaller wood, which iuafweted vciy «rU
for ibme time ; the foil increafe^ in bulk ; the KfcAi were pknted* and 1^
pcared to thrive ; but the violence of the tid« fopn aoricd fences, reeds,
1^ foil before it ; an4 now, Ccarce a v^ge. of any thing remains. Soo^
mounds, however, a confiderable way within water-mark, are forming of
themfelvcs, a^d in fevi^ral places (bowing a ki^d of fpwe^ graft ; and whrn-
eyer it gathers fuch a firmncfs, re^, if planters will probably thnvc* ^
once fairly eftabliflied, they prppagate th^fehres without trouble, and gift
a crop every year. X^e. fame kind of reed lhfti(ys itielf in, confiderable qiua-
tities, in feveral fieUls next the river, an^ through the Carle, which it is is-
poffibie to get rid of, as they rife frpm roots exceedii^ly deep, fnat of
which have been traced 18 feet below the furface. Hence diey cannot \^
fuppofed to rob the prolific furface of any nourifliment ; but as they ripen
iqi'd grow ftropg, efpccially amongft wheat, it is probable tbey arc not qf^
barmleii in (haking winds.
^f Longf$rgan. 4(^9
feet bj x«» and is fo conftruded u to receive the fteam
from a boiler of caft-iron, containing ten Englifli gaAons^
placed ^ver a furnace, built about the middle of the back**
wall, into a chamber, occupying the whole fpace below the
m^^lon-earth, which is fupported by an arch of brick, fo
built, that the ends of the bricks leave about an inch open
fpace for the Aeam to pafs, while the fides are cemented
with lime, over which is placed a layer of wheat-firaw,
^bout an inch thick, and then the melon-mould. The pit
ifi about four teet deep behind, and two and a half or three
before. A pit, of the above dimenfions, will require two
longitudinal arches, the one next the lorepart of the pit,
lower than the one p'^rallel to the back part, fo as to give %
proper declivity to the furface of the mt!lon-earth ; and the
mid- wall, which lupports the arches, is full of openings, to
let thf fteair. p ifs ireely *, care alfo muft be taken, fo to con-
ftrud the funnel for dividing the fteam, that it may beajr
equally upon all parts of the fiame. Melons raifed in this
way are thought to be thinner ikinned, and rather higher
flavoured than thofe produced in the common way.
Pita Siovesr^tJo doubt, fteam might be applied to pine
fioves with equal advantage ; and it is probable, that ihe
|Mt above defcribed, or one upon the fame principles, would
anfwer every purpofe of railing pines.
Vinery.'^ Ax Caftle-Huntly fteam is introdncrd into a
vinery, and it is propofed to be tried in peach-houfcrs oUo ;
but in thefe laft, the fteam is guided by pipes of tinned
copper, li inch in diameter, conduced fiom the boiler, pla-
ced over the fame furnace which heats the houfe, and car-
ried round about half a foot above the back flue, and i^
foot above the fronr flue, but in a contrary dire£li<'o, with
C^tclu opemng at different places^ fo as to divide the fteam,
and
aaa appiy ic co any parcicsiar pome ac pieaiare. loe ex-
tremitj of the fleam pipe^ a a» is conduced to the outfide
ef the hottfe, but juft before it enters the wall, b b, it is bent
or curved downwards^ as at c,
where fteam being coodenfed,
lodges, and prevents oommnnics*
tion with the external air, whils
St finds a paffage oat at d, i^ica
the cocks in the houfe are ikot,
or the fleam too ftrong. By thefe means, the honfe hss the
advantage of a great additionsl heat at no expeoce ; sad s
fteam dew,^ when thought proper, which moft certainly coo-
tributes very much to preferve the trees bom fuflering by
various infe^.
Fruits nfj^M.— Fruits ripen upon the common waD as
under. Cherries about the laft week of June and beginning
of July; apricots the firft and fecond week in Augnft;
pears from the end of July to Odober ; jarganeUs the firft
week in September ; peaches, in fine feafons, in Augaft,
and continue through September and O&ober; but ill of
them ripen fooner or later, according to their various fpe-
cies, and the difference of the feafons.
f^illa^e ofLon£/t>r^an.^^Tikt village of Lo«gforgan, wkich
gives name to the parifh, occupies 23 Scotch acres, and is
beautifully fituated upon the creft of thatrifing ground, which
runs between Kingoody and Drimmie, and bounds the
^aftmoft corner of the Carfe of Gowrie 00 that fide, and
from which it commands a fine view of the river Tay, &r
above 20 miles. Its longitude weft from Greenwich ii 3^
16' 45", and its latitude 56® 2f 48".
Qrigiu
of Longf organ. 471
Ofigin^^^TYit origin of this village flioft probably had
been for the accommodation of the retainers* and the more
immediate dependents of the Baron of the Caftle y and moft
probably all ancient villages owed their origin to the fame
caufe. For thej paid little or no rent» but what thej did
pay was moflly in kind. The reft was made np in a variety
of fervices \ fo that their wBok time, almoft, ^as at the
command of thair fuperior ; and alfo their perfonal attend*
ance on their faperior in the field was an eflential and indif-
penfible condition of their poflefl^onsf and except this taft^
filch was the ezad iituation of the villagers of Longforgan
not 50 years ago. They were bonad to plough the ground
•f the mains or family-farm, to fow, reap, carry it into the
barn-yard, threfli it out, and take it to market ; to fetch
Hme, ftone, flates, and land, or any thing elfe wanting for
the cafile or demefnes ; to plant all the trees upon the eftate ^
to give fo many days labour in the gardens or fields ; to be
ready at all times to go nKflages, either on foot or on horfe-
back, to any difiance ; and, in fliort, there was fcarce any
kind of fervitude about the place they were not bound to
perform, many of which continued till the prefeot proprie-
tor came in pofleffion.
Inhabitants, — ^The village belongs entirely to the eftate
of Caftle-Hantly \ confifts of one principal ftreet, which is
DOW a turnpike-road, and feveral lanes. It contains 136
families, which, at 5 for each finmily, makes 630-inhabi«
tants of -all ages. Of thele, 3 are confiderable farmers from
L.60 to Lb I jo per annum ^ 36 are fmall farmers or acre-
men, paying from L.$ rent to L. 16 per annum* Of this laft
elais almoft every ode has a trade or occupation ; fo that
the management of his little farm is the employment of his
leifure hours only, wluch improves his health, and gives
him many little comibrtSi which be could not expefi other-
wiie*
47^ Statijlicat Account
wife. Befides thefe, there are dfo manafaAnren, trndet^
tneo» and labourers, who have no land, but all of them have
yards (gardens) attached to their hoofiss*
Burgb of Baromy. — ^In the year 1672, Loogfbrgan was
treded into a free burgh of barony, by a charter of King
Charles II. in fftyour of Patrick Earl of Strathmore, there-
in defigned Earl of Kinghom ; with power to trcSt and
^ conftitute bailies, burgeffes, clerks, oflkers, fergeants, &o.
mnvl to admit all kinds of trades to a variety of privileges )
to have a weekly market within the burgh, and to have
two free yearly fairs ^ one on the firft Tuefday of the month
of July ; and the other, the firft Tuefday of OSober ; and
each to laft three days ; the duties and cuftoms of which to
be levied by and applied to the fole ufe of the proprietor.
Mifriiit^'-'Thote yearly fairs, however, are now held,
one on the third Wednefday of June, and the other on
the third Wednefday of Odober, and continue each only
\>ne day. They are principally cattle markets, bat arc fre-
quented by a number of travelling merchants, and a variety
of articles, ufuallyexpofed to £de in other country fiurs, are
to be found here. At the fummer market of Loogforgan,
all the farm^fervants for the whole Carfe are nbmliy hired
for the eofuing year. This cuftom^ althoi^ of long fland-
ing, is by no means a good one, as the fervant, if hired to
another, remains with his prefent mafter from June to the
Martinmas following, perhaps very much agunft the inte-
reft of the one, and the moral reditude or good coodufi of
the other. The cuftoms belong to CafUe-Huntljt and for
both fidrs are generally from L. 6 te L. 7, zo s.
//9«j.^There are two inns in the village, one at the weft
end, very convenient for the accooamodatioa of ooontty
paflengersi
of Longf organ. 473
jMiflengers ; and another about the middle of the town, upon
a much larger fcale, with a brew-houfe, malt-bam, bake-
houfe, and good fiabliog attached to it *.
Villages.
* There are ftill remaining a few of tbe old hoafes In Longforgan, which
ibew what they were lo yean ago. They are very bad, narrow, low roofed,
and inconvenient; they are built with turf and ftone, or with clay for mor-
tar, and all thatched with turf and ftraw ; not a veftige of lime was then
to be fcen in the village. Since that time, all the houfet capable of being
made habttable have been repaired; between 50 and $0 new houfet have
brcn built by the prefent proprietor* befides two fets of fann-offices for liir-
ger farmers, feveralbams and byres, and two fmitfaies, all within the village.
The new houfes are generally a 8 or 30 feet by 15 within walls, and the
door in the middle; they are divided into two good apartments upon the
jrroood-floor, vrith a window to each to the ftreet, and a fmaller room in
the middle, with a window backwtrSls which ferves as a ftoie-room to the
fiunily. In geneial, weavers have their houfes fitted for their particular
convenience ; but almoft every one has a fmall apartment, neatly plaAered
with lime, and fitted up according to the tafte of the pofleflbr. They are
built with ftone and lime« The floors are of earth or clay. The garrets
above are laid with deal, and they are covered either with fcwed thatch of
«hieat4lraw, tiles, or flates, with iky-lights. Thefe houfes, when built,
coft from L. 30 to L. 50, according to tbe fise, materials, &€. The Oime
defcription any ferve both for the old and the new houfes all over the
parifli.
In the middle of the village there was a Crois, confiiHng of a pillar of
eoe ftone, with a lion on the top of it, Handing upon a pedeltal of mafonry
of feveral fteps; the whole height of the ftone pillar is 21 feet This had
been ereded by one of the Earls of Strathmore, probably Earl Patrick, as
there ii another built by him exaillly rrfembling it at Glaimnis. This Croft
was taken down (6me years ago, and is now fet up upon a rocky eminence
within the park of Caftle-Huntly, called CromweU's Knowe (Knoll).
Thb village is fituated upon the ridge of a bank, through the middle of
wbich the tumpike.road between Perth and Dundee runs from well to eaft ;
snd it is remarkable, that on the north fide of the road, no water nor fpring
Si to be found, in pita funk (as fome fay) 50 or 60 feet deep ; while, on the
ifluth fide, there are many wells very well fupplied with watex.
Vol. XIX, g O
474 Siaiiflical Accmmt
P'illagiSj'^ThtTe are only two other phoes ia thk fmnt^
which have the leaft claim to be called' viOages | Kingoodj,
which belongs to Mr M/Ine of Mj)aefield» alrca47 ino^
tiored; and Lochtowq, a fmall village belonging to Bfr
Paldane of Airtbrj. The reft can oqIj be faUe4 hamlpH|
\iUt tbej are numerous.
Farm ffom/es.^rT^e fkrm booTes ate verj good ; many
of them new within thefe twentj je^rs. In general tkej
are handfoipe i two ftories highi with two fire rooms, a large
light cloi'ety and other conreniencies, on each ioor, and
^yered with blue or grej (late. The dwdling-boole h a
little detached from, and advapoed before the offices, form*
ing one fide of a (qoares die other three fidcaof whidioaa-
fill of oflices. The bamt forming the fide oppofite to the
bottfe, with a threlhbg-isiill behind ; and the other two
^des are ftables, byres, part-(hi|de9, granaries, bothiet 2^i
and the dung-court is in the centre of the Cgiiare. The
bothie is the apartmenf of the fisvm-icrvantSt where they
Peep, dreis their Tifiuals aqd pa^
Cafili'Hutitfy.^^Th!t moft remarkable InuWiig in the
parifh is Caftle-Huntly. It ftands upon the point of a iFoy
fingdar rock, which rifcs in the middle frf the plain, qiute
perpendicular towards the fouth-wefi, and graduallj flopiag
^o the eaftward* Wheii it was. original^ btultt as there b
po date upon any part of thp old cafik, is unknown ; bat
there is a charter iu pofleffion of t)ie family of Graj, to
whom this eftate then belongedi and which nut^e a part of
very eztenfive pofleiQons iu this copntry, whac^ belonged
%o that &mily at th^ tim^ ; which charter is Cnom Jasfies IL
in I4j9f to Apdrew the id Lord Gray of Foulia, giTing
fiim lei^ve to baild a fortalice upon any of his eftotea* which
werp then Tcry a^tepfir^. • In 9pp|^aence of which, be
ti fidd *^ io iiave 'built this caflle upoii a verj remtrkable
** rock, a little to the fouth weft of Forguhd, aiid called it
^ Huntly;" It does not afipear why he gave it that name ;
bu( there is an adjoining field, and a bridge acrols the rivn-
let which runs through the park, both of which bear the
name of Huiitly. It is laid, thathaving marHed a daughteif
of the Earl of Huntlj, hit nan^ his c»iUe iii honour of hit
UAj. It is entirely bdilt of Kin^dddj ficme; and the
eountry p^bple have a thidition, that Che materials tirere all
brought by water to the fpot* Be that as it may, there ia
every appearance of this rock^ at fome very diftant period^
being waflied, if not fofrounded by water \ for river fand is
found iti great abundance all round it ; and if therfe be any
foundation for this tradition, it is probable that there was a
place of firength opoii this rock many yeai^ before the
There b another circninftande Which adds weight to thb
tonjefiure, Thfc fouth-weft &oe of the rock had been fo
much wafted by the weather, or fome other more powerful
ttuie, that fometime betwieen the year x66o and 1670^ or
thereabouts, Earl Fitrick had judged it heceflkfy to build a
fating, or mafly buttrels^ to cover the rock to the weft-*
ward, to protefi that fide of the caftle* This buttreis is
very difiinguiihabte from the reft of the building of the
caftle, and is eafily khown to be Earl Patrick's, from thd
cbrrefpdndingftyle of building with his other wbrks: Now,
it is hardly probable, thilt from the year 1452 to 1660, a
difiance only of ao8 years, fo great a wafte could hav< been
inade iipon the £ace of a whin rock, by the common opera-
tioB of wind and weather, as to make fuch a jGicing necef-
laty i and if fo, efpctially as the eftate had been long in the
family before, the probability is, that the original building
had been much more ancient, and that it had only been te*-
pairtd^
476 Statt/lkal Accfwu
puredp perhaps enlarged^ and its name changed, bj the Lard
Gray, who obtained the charter from James IL *
SoU
* The Boft ancient pait of this ctftle htd been an oblong Cqnare. boiir
upon the moft projecting put of the rock, in fuch ftfluon, due the firft fet
of apftftmeiits, confifting of three tiuilti,' ail arched widi ftrong maibbry,
hsd one end foUd rock* and ^ otfaor a wall of 14 feet thi^ with a win-
dow to each, about 6 inches wide add 4 feet high. In the middle 'vnult
there had been a weli which is now fiUed up.
Oppofito to the fonthennoft vault, the rock projc^ a Httle fartiber tothe
weftward, and is lower dtan the reft, upon which the pit or prifon ww
built ; alfo 14 feet thick walk, and a narrow flit of a window ; no pa&ge
to the pit but by a trap- door, and over it, a fquare apocttnent of 20 fieet
high, arched at top, with a window of 4 feet i^uare, and 38 feet from tbr
ground, which is fuppofed to have been the guard-room, the only door of
which is arched ; and there was not the leaft veftige of any other waj to
get acceis to the caftte, even for one man at a time, teC over die flbelving
rock on the fouth-weft, and dofe by the two windows in the other two
arched apartments, one of which is exa^y upon the door, calculated, as it
would appear, for the ufe of fpears^ or other offenfive v^eapons, to prevent
the entrance of an enemy. From all which, it would appear to have been
as fecure a retrtM, in thofe days, as nature and art could make it. This
door had been built up, probably when Earl Patrick tupaiMd the caftk,
and another, on the north «aft fide, had been ftruek out at 6iat time, to
make the acceis more convenient. On opening that old door in 1777, a vczy
large iron.gate was found inclOfed in a 10 feet wall, built of folid mafony.
To make the caftle (till more fecure, it appears that the original boildeiv
had left no other way of getting to the apartments above, ^fter pafimg the
Ihelving rock, clofe by the two narrow windows of the lower .vaults, bat
through the guard-room ; and then, by a hole of about 3 feet fquaie in the
lop of one of the arches, to which they rouft mount by a Udder, whi^,
though built up; is perfeAly difUndl at this day. . It is probable, that after
mounting, the ladder was drawx» up, and the Lord of the caftie ilept in fe-
cunty.
It would alfo appear, thct fome time or other there had been fome kind
•f excavations round part of the caftle, probably to ferve as a ditch for de-
fence; for, in 1780, when finking a foundation for fome addition to the
prefeut building, for about is feet deep and upwards, it appeared to have
been filltd up with wood-aflies, and rubbifli of various mtteriala ; fo that.
finding
of Longforgafi. ^jy
SMim 1615 to the Family o/Lyon^^^ln 161$^ this cafile^
with the eltate belonging to it, pmfled from the family of
Gmj to the familj of Ljon, then Earls of Kinghom, andf
Earl Patrick fucceeding fometime about the jear t66oi it
became a favourite refidence of his. Whether anj altera*
tious had been made upon the cafile before his time» does
not appear. But many alterations and additions were made
by him, all of which bore hb initials, and the date 1667.
One very remarkable alteration made by him was enlsur*
ging the dining roomp by digging four feet out of the front
wall for its whole length of 34 feet; fo that, while the waQ
of the rooms, both above and below, are 10 feet thick, the
front wall of this room is only 6 feet thick; and when the
caftle was repairing in 1778, the upper part of this exca-
vation was found to projefi and hang oyer, like a folid im*
penetrable rock.
Nami changed to Lyon in 1672. — By the fame charter,
which Earl Patrick obtained from Charles II. 1672, in
favour
finding no proper bed to faanA upon, arches wvre thrown from point to point
of the rock for that purpofe. As no coal-alhe were found, ouy not this bo
an additional proof of its great antiquity ?
The moft ancient part of the building is very diilinguifliable from die reft,
» all the ftooes are placed on the fame bed as they lay in the quarry ; and
it would appear from the openings made on the walls, fivr different pur*
pafet, by the prefcnt proprietor, that the old ctftle had been built of two
walls one ontfide, of very large mafly flones, tolerably well drefled; and an
inner wall, not quite fo well drefled : That the middle fpace between
thefe had then been filled up with immenfe large whin-ftones, gatheied
from the fields, with fmaUer ilones thrown in loofely round them, and thea
filled up with grouted lime, that Is, lime mixed with a proper proportion of
fand, and made fo thin with water, as to admit of being poured in, and to
till up all the cavities between the ftones. This cement it now fo very hard,
that it u much more diflkult to work than any quarry ; fo much fo, that in
1 7 93* ^1>^ making an opening for a window of pf feet by 4^, and only
6 feet thick, as the wall had been thinned before, it was hard work to four
ilottt men for nine days.
47S StaHJHcat Account
fiTOiir of Loogforgtiit the btrony was ereAed into & lonli
fliip, to be called (he Lordfliip of Lyon ; and it b moft pro-
bable that this was the mm of its diange of name finxa
Gaftle-Hontly to Caflle Ljron.
He alio planted a greatnomberof trees of all forts, maoj
of which now remain, and the whole groonds were dreffed
op in all the grandenr of ftimmer boofes, fiatucs, avcnuesi
gates, omameilted with various orders of architcAare, &c
fcc. agreeable to the tafte of the times.
SoUagaim in 1^77^— *No|htng feems to have been done
10 this plaoe finee Earl Patrick's time, nntil the prcfent pro^
prietor pnrchafed the efiate in 1777. The whole has now
affomtd a new face. The groonds are laid out as mndi is
thcmoderO taftc as their fitnation will admit; manj treo
are taken down, hot many more have been pknted, and
great numbers of fine old horie-chefnots, planes, limes, sod
afb| &a in flraight avenues, fiill remain^ fo as to preiervr
the onity of fiyle between the place and the caftle.
The caflle alfo, although completely modemifed widiifi,
has afliimed even a more caftellated a|»pearanoe ootwsrdlj
than formerly. The wings, embattled walls, round tower,
and comer turrets, have been given it by the pre&nt pro-
prietor \ viho has reflored the ancient name of Hnatly, by
which it was fo long known while in pofieffion of (he funi-
ly of Gray. lu tgreateft height i» xi6 feet from the
ground.
Finv«— The'view from the top of Cafile-HvAdy is per-
haps one of the fineft in Oreat Britain. Situated io tbe
middle, and rifing 116 feet above the levd of one of tbie
ridieft and mod fertile plabs in the ifland, it commands s
view of the river Tay for above ao miles, which, in masy
places is two milfcs broad send upwarrdB, aiid which is fre-
queotlj
Of Longforgan. 479
^qeatlj covc^d with a great nuinber of Tcflek of varioqs
burdens. On the fouth, the hilb of Fife bonndtbe profped,
now in moft places highlj cultivated ; and on the nord), a
f OQlinnation of the Sidlaws, covered with rich corn-fields to
their fiimmits \ and the whole well wooded, and interfper&d
with gentlemens feats, viilagesi hainkts, and farm-hoiifes»
for above 30 fuilesj and in the back ground are leen diftant
liiUs for 60 miles and upwards*
Gaf#.— The gate is very remarkable, and had oriipoallj
jieen buik bj Earl Patrick, at the weft end of Longfidrg^,
which he named Port-Patrick, after himfelf ; but which,
from a vulgar eorruptioa, was always called Port-Putwiu.
It was one of fix, which he built in a ftraight line, upon the
approach between Longforgan and the cafile. It confifis
of a middle fpace of 16 feet wide, and an arch on each fide
pf 7 feet. The whole length 73 feet 6 inches. It is oma*
fliented on both fides widi Tnfcan femicohimns, and crown-
ed with four pjrramids* It was taken down about twelve
jrearsago, and;rebuik, with great care, where it now ftands,^
as a kfting monument of the tafie of the Noble Earl by
whom it was originally bftilt.
Drimmii. — In this pariih, alfo, there is a feat belonging
CO Lord Kionaard, called Drimmie, which became the refi-
dence of die faiyiily, in confequence of the cafile of Moncur
having been burnt down in the ^beginning of this century.
It originally confided of a lodge built as a banqueting^r
room^ in order to fiicifitate conviviality with the then pro-
prietors of the eftate of Caflle-Huntly^ and todus lodge
additions have been made from rime to rime, as naceffity
diAated \ but its fituauon is lb little cafcnlated for becom-
lag a fit refidenoe for the fiunily, chat no regular plan ap«
^cmfverlqliavo been (adopted Ipnrbeaitifyingt or laying
99t
480 StatiJHcal Account
mit the gitmndsy confieqiieDtlj there is nodung about it
worth notice.
The prefent proprietor has this year, 1795* made feme
eoofiderable repairs about the houle, for the piupoie of res-
dering it a more comfortable abode, until a fit and fuitsbk
figonil J refidence ihall be boilt, in a park not far difrmt, m
the adjoining paiifh of Roffie, which his Lordfliip has indo-
led at a great expence, and is of confiderable extent, con-
taining in it great variet j of ground, plantations, water, &c.
all of which have been improved with much ooft and tafie ;
thus that which requires the hand of time to render perfcd,
being fo far completed, a houfe fit for fo fine a fitaation sod
place may be ere6ted, whenever it may fiut the inclinatioo
or convenience of the family.^The eftate of Drimmie bts
been in the pofleffion of the £uni]y of Kinnaird for maoj
centuries.
M/bteJieU^^The houfe of Mylnefield u beaotifiilly fi-
tuated, eafi from Longforgan, and fouth of the turnpike-
road leading to Dtmdee, upon the rifing gttend on the eiii
comer of the pari(h. The grounds are laid out in great
tafte by Mr White. It has a great deal of planting, bodi
old and young, about it, and commands a moft delightful
profped of the river Tay, the diftaot hills of Fife« m
beautiful rich bank of Gray, Lundie, &c. in die county of
For&r. It is fnrrounded with fine grais parks, from which
the Dundee market b fupplied with excellent mutton.
Old CAmrch.'^^Tht parifii church, manfe, and fehool-
houfe, are in the village of Longforgan.
The church was taken down 1794. It was an old, loog,
narrow, and inconvenient building, confifting of two parts,
and evidently built at very different periods. The ea&-
mofi, which belonged entirely to the eftate of Caffle-Hont-
ly, was B fubft^tial building, all of afiilar Kitigoodj ftone )
and from a very handfome crofis on the eaft gavel, and feve-
ral f^cefles of hewn ftone within, probably for altar:>9 or
ihrines of fome favourite faints, it had every appearance of
having been the original church when ttie Roman Catholic
religion prevailed ; and from uniformity of building with
the church of Fowlis-Eafter, it is probable that both werfe
built fometime in the twelfth century, by the fame Lady
Gray, td whbm both eftates then belonged; The weft end
of the church, although apparently older^ muft have been
of a much later date. It was a very infufficient buildmg»
of bad materials, and had every appearance of t^at ill*
judged parfimonious fithplicity, fo much affedled by the en«
thufiafiic firft reformers. This, therefore, would appear to
have bieen added to it at the Reformation;
&A*^/f.-- Upbn the weft end of the churdh Is the fteeple^
which was built by Earl Patrick of Strathmore about 13d
years ago. It has three bells and a clock, which laft is the
property of the inhabitants of the village ; but it is not well
kept. On the eaft end is a f^uare biiilding, lUfo btiilt by
his Lordfhip. It ftands diagonally, and was formerly joined
to the church, but they are now diftind 1>uildings. The
lower part is the Caftle-Huntiy burylng.place, and over it
is a room, to which the family Ufed to retire dhrirtg the in-
terval of divine fierviee. This room the proprietor has gi^
ven leave to the kirk-feilion to ufe for a feilion-houfe duriug
his pleafure.
Nrm Ciurcb.-^ln room of the old chtirch, a handfomn
new one was finiflied in Z795» with large Gothic win. tows
in front, towards the fouth, extremely well finilhed, and
l/vell feated, with an elegant circular gallery. The whole
chorch is capable of containing 1000 hearers and upwards.
Vai. XIX- 3 P Ma,i/e.
482 Statijlical Account
Manfe, — T*he manfe was built X753« and has be^a tnhce
repaired within thefe 15 years. In 1795, it got a thoroogfa'
repair for the third time, and is now a nioft excellent con-
venient houfe ; it has very good offices, aB lately repaired,
a good garden, and is beautifully fituated, commanding a
moft extenfive view of the river Tay, and the rich groundft
below.
Stipend. — The ftipend is xi bolls of wheat, ^56 boUsof
barley, 57 bolls of oau, 2 bolls of mea), and L. 20 Sterling,
befides a good glebe. Worth L. zo Sterling per atmrnm at
leaft ; fo that, with the houfe, garden, and officira, it is wortk
about L. 150 per Annum^ taken at a medium of 10 years
back ; but from an old prafticc, the viflual part of mini*
iter's (lipends b valued fo low, it makes them appear much
lels than they are in fad ; although^ were they (htted as
they really are, the livings of the clergy in Scotland are in
general fufficiently moderate, and many of them much lower
than they ought to be.
Plan for improving Mimfters Siipends.^^\t would be a
good plan, were Government to make an offer to proprie-
tors to purchafe their teinds, whiqh, it is believed, moft
would do. This would raife a very large capital ; and were
the produce put in the hands of truilees, tmder the direAion
<^ the Church, to be lent out by them to the beft advantage,
and to empower them to buy land if they thought proper,
to be applied folely and entirely to pay the minifters Si-
pends, and to uphold the church and manfe, a permanent
fond would be eftabli(hed immediately, to accommodate
the pariflies with more becoming places of wor(hip, to lodge
the minifters more commodioufly, and aKb, to make many
livings much better \ and might, in time, be the means of
snaking fitpends keep pace with the value of money. This
of LoHgf organ. 483
is but th« outlines of a plan, which may, indeed, be liable
to objedions ; bat the advantages would be fo great, it feems
to merit confideration. The flipends would dill be unequal,
according to circumftances ; but, b j proper regulation, all
of them might be better : The clergj would then be raifed
to that rank and coniideration in fociety to which they are
well entitled ; and men of learning and abilities would con-
iider the Church as an objed of honourable ambition : He-
ritors would no longer have caufe ot difputes with their
paftors ; and the Court of Teinds, with a ihouiand &cs«
might be fet afide for ever.
Sciooliou/ef ScboolmaJler*s Salary ^ ISc. and SchooL — The
fchoolhoufe is very tolerable, with a houfe for tht: rbJitcr
attached to it. The fijced falary for the fchoolmaftcr is
L. 7, 5 8* per annum ; but that the parith might be w«:U fup-
plied, the heritors, at the fettlement of the prefent teacher,
raiCed the falary, by fubfcription, to about L. ao per annum^
to continue during his incumbency. The average number
of fcholars are about 80 or 90 ; and the fees for teaching
LAtin are a s. 6 d. ; writing and arithmetic, a s. ; and i s. 6 d.
for teaching to read English, ptr quarter ; which, with io?ne
fmall fees as feilion-clerk, and Mr Pateifon's -^Qd.iXj allow-
ance for poor fcholars, makes therplace worth more than
L. 50 per annum.
The fchool may be confidered to be more immediately
under the patronage of Mr Patcrfon, the principal heritor;
who, befides taking a very rtftivc part, and fnbfcribing very
liberally himfelf, he pays for teaching twelve fcholars, chiU
dren of fuch poor as cannot pay the ufual fees ; and every
year, upon the examination of the fchool by the prtftytery
of Dandee, he attends himfelf, when in the country, and
gives premiums of Bibles, New Teftaments, Collcftions,
fKconqt-books, pens, and paper, to be dillributed by the
esiitniners
484 Statiftical Account
ex 1 miners to fuch of the fcholars of each c1a&, as tliey majr
think moft defer ving ; and as all the fcholars know thia to
be an annual eftabliihed praAice, it has had an exceeding
good effefl, and has raifed a fpirit of emulation, and that de-
gree of application amongft the children, which cannot iail
of giving great pleafure to all concerned.
State oftht Poor.— The ftate of the poor in Scotland is,
in every refpeA, quite different from what it is in £n|Eland.
There is a kind of verj commendable pride, which pre-
vents many of the labouring poor in this country from ac-
cepting parUk charity, a& long as by their own induftry, or
by the bounty of their friendi», they can get a morfel of
bread. In moft parilfaes, the ordinary funds are fitfficient
to fupply the wants of their poor : Thefe are principally
under the management of the minifter and the kirk-feffioo,
who mud be well acquainted with the circumftances of cTcry
one ; but (hould the ordinary funds prove infufficient, the
care of the poor falls to the heritors. This has happened in
fome parifhes \ and hence, fomething like a rate, or pro-
portional affeflment, has taken place \ but in this parifh
there is no fuch thing.
Fundi. — ^Tbe funds are, L. 23P, at in^ereft at 5 /<r
ce«^ - - L.11 10 •
'W'eekly colle^on$ at the church^doors, ind^-
ding what is given at the Sacrament, may
be reckoned at 10 s./^ week, . a6 o 0
Fees for marriages, burials, &c, 500
L.42 10 0
Befides feat-rents, which cannot as yet be eipdly afcertain-
^, but may be between L.3 and L. 4 more, as the heritors
^ve ^iven the communion-ublesi which hold between 70
and
tf Longf organ. 48^
and 80 ifittersy to the kirk-fefllony for the benefit of th^
poor*.
Number of Poor.— There arc only la perfons who ar^
upon the feffion-lift, (November 179^)* and who receive
about L. 2. 8 8. ptr month \ fo that the funds of the pariih
are quite fufficient for fuch ordinary fupplies ; but at pre-
fent, the feffion have to pay L. 6 per annum f to the Lunatic
I|ofpital at Montrofe, for a poor woman difordered in mii^d ;
and in the year 179^9 as there was an appearance of fcarcity,
from the deficiency of the crop, the fe0ion came to a refo-
lution to give all their refidentpoor meal inftead of money \
and to every perfon entitled to 1 s. to give in its place one
peck of good oatmeal*
Rxtraor Unary Supply 1795- — However, crop 1795 was
found to be fo very deficient, particularly in the Carfe of
Gowrie, that before February 1796, there was every ap-
pearance, not only of fcarcity, but of want, and which wovil4
probably have been the cafe in this pariih, bad not the he-
ctors exerted themfelves in an extraordinary degree ; Mr
Mylae of Mylnefield, and Mr Wemyfs of Lauriefion, who
had oats, took charge pf their own tenants \ but as Lor4
Xinnaird and Mt Paterfon had neither oats nor meal of
their
* He leail rede^ion oaght to conTince everyone, that tt is of the utmoft
confc^ience to fociety to keep off a rate as long as poffible ; for althoagh
^liere are many who wi exert themfelves to the tttmoft. rather than accept
of pariih charity, yet, when they know that a fund is eftablilhed for their
aid| they are inclined, from that moment, to confider it as their right* Ihame
is entirely laid afidc ; iheir induftriuus endeavoun to fttpport themfelves are
at tn end ; and they 1 ecome burden upon the pariih at a much earlier pe-
riod than they are entitled to in the true fpirit of charity.
f Raifed this year (1797) to L. 10 per anniim, and grafted as a finroyf
iwm the hofpical,|>c£dc$ about L«« for clothts.
486 Statijlical Accwni
iheir own, they fent from London 400 qnartcis of die beft
mealing EngliQi oats, which ihej direded to be groimd into
mealy to be fold at the Dundee market price to all of their
tenants who wanted, and who coold afford to pay ; and to
thofe, whole daily earning were not fufficient to maintain
themfelves and femily, they ordered the meal to be given
out weekly at a reduced price, t. e. at I s. fer peck, and to
continue till next harveft \ and to the poor iat nothing.
Few Poor.^^lt may feem extraordinary, that in a parifli
confifHng of 1500 (buls and upwards, and in which there is
a village of nearly half the number, principally laboorers
and manufaAurers, there are fo few who receive chari-
ty; and ftill more extraordinary that there is but one
travelling beggar in the whole parifli; even £he receives
parochial fupplies, but flie has got fuch a habit of begging,
nothing can reftrain her,. Of that dafs, many pals through
the parifli, but they come from the neighbouring towns, and
many from the Highland^. This may bo accounted for 9s
follows :
Reafons wfy.^Everj native of this parifli, who is in real
want, upon proper application, gets a fupply as far as the
funds will admit, and according to his or her neQcflities.
If they be totally unable to do any thing for their own
maintenance^ or if they have a family to provide for, which
they are unable to do, they get more ; if they be fingle, or if
they have friends or relations who can help them, they get leis.
For it is the leading feature of this charity, that the poor are
to be fupplied with the neceflaries of life, and not with the
fuperfluities, and in fuch a manner as to be a fpur to the in-
duHry of all, efpecially of the rifing generation^ and not to
rncomage floth, and fuppo.^t idlen^^ and ej^ravagance.
. ' As
*/ LongforgMi 4 487
As this Is a corn country ; as improvements in agriculturet
to an Immenfe extent, have been carrying on within theie
30 years ; as there is one of the beft fione-quarries in Great
Britaih in this parifli, ^'hich employs a great number of
hands ; as numbers of buildings have been going on ; and
turnpike roads, vrith many other public works, there is, of
courfe, a great demand for labourers of every defcription, and
of all ages; even women and children getconftant employ-
ment in the field for near 3-4ths of the year, befides what are
required for the manufadures and different trades. It is in the!
winter months only, that tlie labouring and indullrious poor
run the greateft rifle of want. At that period, therefore,
the heritors are very attentive to the wants of the #poor ;
and as the village of Longfurgan belongs entirely to CafUe-
Huntly, during the three winter monthf, u e. December,
January, and February, or longer, if the feafon be fevere^
Mr Paterfon orders meal to be difiributed to the poor on his
eftate, one or two pecks pet- week, oi more, according to
their neceffities, or as the number and helplefs condition of
their femilies may require. By fuch means the parifh of
Longforgan has hitherto been able to fupport its own poor.
Without a rate upon themfelves, or a tax upon the benevo^
lence of their neighbours.
Population. — llie return to Dr Webfter, in 1755, amount-^
ed taly to 1285 ; and as the number at preient is 1526, con-
iequently there is an increafe of 241 i of thefe, 778 are
males, and 748 females.
Under 10 years of age, there are
Thence to 20 years^
to jo years, • *
to 70 years, - *-
to 80 years, - • ^
to 90 years,
4S8
Statical Aicoutft
Married perfons.
-
-
43»
Widowers,
.
-
aj
Widows,
« •
45
Batchellors above 50,
* •
7
Unmarried women above
45^
5
S19
Minifter,
Shoemakers,
1
Schoolmafter,
Black&nitha,
8
Surgeon,
Wrights,
- 16
Excife officer^
Weavers,
6t
Butcher,
Male fervants of aU deno-
Baker,
minations.
- 13«
Brewers,
Fetnale fervants of aU de-
Coopers,
nominations,
above 8d
Maf ms.
Farmers paying L. ico
Innkeepers,
ptr ann. and
onwards, 15
Alchoufes,
Do. paying
L.50 per
Lint-dreiTers,
3
annum to L.
100, 10
Gardeners,
5
Do. from L. ao to L. 50, 7
Lint-millers,
6
Do. from L. 10 to L. ao, iS
Corn-millers,
6
Do. from L» j
t» L. lo, iS
Tailors,
6
Families in the village,
• •
tr6
Ditto in the reft of the
pai
ifll,
181
Families,
307
Seceders of all denominations, - ^
Epifcopalians, - • j^
Inhabitants of the village of Longforgan, at sf^ famUy, 630
Inhabitants 6f the whole parifh at the above calcaktion, 1335
\
So
of L>ngfargan. 489
So that the calculation at 5 per fiunily comes within 9 of
Ae real numbers in the pariih.
Refidiog proprietors, • • 6
Non*refidenty • . 5
The increafe of inhabitants in the parifh cannot be well
afcertained from the regifter of bapti£ais,,which do not feem
to have been accurately kept.
From January i. 1731 to January z. 17419 were baptized.
Males, - * 140
Females, - - 327
467
56 marriages recorded. No burials recorded in this period.
From ifi January 1741 to ift January 1761 no record. •
There does not appear to be any regifier of burials before
the year 1771 ; nor of marriages from 174Z to 1771.
From Jan, i. 1761 to Janu. x, 1771, were baptized, '
Males, - • 246
Females, • • 220
266
During the 10 years preceding 1793 were baptized,
Males, (- - 222
Females, - • 223
" .'♦^^
Within the period of 10 years preceding 1793, the bans
were publiflied in this pariih for 143 couples ; 75 of tbefe,
both parties were of this pariih ; and one of the parties of
the remaining 68; fo that 218 individuals of this pariih
were married within that time.
The decrement of lives in this pariA can be fiiU leils ac-
curately afcertamed, as the regifter is kept from the feea
paid for the mortcloth (pall ^ only, which is u(ed at burials of
perfons coming from other pariihes to be mterred here, as well
Vol. XIX, 3 <^ ••
49^ Staiifikal AccQuat
St for tfaofe who die ind are buried in the ptrck; nd kk
riaL> going from this parilh to any ocher do not vSt the SKst*
doth of this parifli, and therefore are not regiftexcd » nor do
the poor paj any thing. But tt appears bj the moftdocb-
regifter, that it has been uled 356 times in the 10 7CIIS pee-
<***»g *793» «• '• *iA P^ annum.
9794. Baptized. Males - 14
Females, . ai
Total, 35
The mortcloth paid for \6 times.
Married, both parties in this pariih, 94
The man in ditto, - 6
The woman in ditto, 5
Of this pariih married, 35 perfisis.
9795* Baptized, Males • az
Females, • %%
Total, 43
Married, both parties in this parifli, 8
Man in ditto, . 4
Woman in ditto, 8
Mortcloth paid for 18 times.
90 p^ribns^
Fees for proclamation, if the bride be of this pariih : — For
3 Sundays, as.; a ditto, jsr, i ditto, xos.6d. If the
bride be not of this pariih, for 3 Mondays, nothing ; z d*lt^
IS.; z ditto, as. 6d»
Fees for the mortcloth :— For die befit 5s. % fecopd, as,
(d.; achild"^, 9d,
As there are alio certab iimall dues payable for Kgifieiw
ing bapttfjus, apy deficiency probably arifes from the bq-
willingnff
iffLmgforgM 491
^rilliagtieis ^ thofe iRho ane not of the Eftabliflied ChairdI
to-pay lina.
5a/03rf/;F..^This pariih is in geiietal healthj. Hot b there
any difeaie endemical to the diftrid. Fonnerly, in the low
C8iie,«gBe8prevuikd, Now^finee the ditches have been
deepened««nd the lands lb comfdetdj drained of water, the
diiieafe is fcafoeljr known. Fevers ara not frcqtient, which
tnmy be owing to the regular diet of the inhabitants :
IVhile yoang» the {doormen and labofiters ate fabjea to
colds, which, in ftrong cooftitutions, and in a jnore advanced
age, ipeneially terminate in rheumatiihis, and gouty painst
as the country people call them ; but, in others, it falls
opont their ineafls \ their longs become aflSsfied, and, in gene*
ral, foch complaints end fiitally. Thb termination general-
ly happens in icrophulous habits, which are very prevalent,
particularly amongft the weavers and common peiQf^e of
this neighbourhood. Within thele ao yean, one inftanoe
has happened, of a hydcaps peOoris, in a firong healthy
man above 50, who caught cddfrom geting wet fowing
his com in the fpring, which was followed with a (Iridure
in his breafti and difficulty of breathing : Soon after his
legs fwdlledi which gradually rofe upwards^ evidently drop*
fical and in a (bort time ; after every medical help had faiU
ed, it proved fatal. A healthy young woman, who had
never been farther oat of the pariih than Dundee, was
feized with an inflammation of the liver : The dtfieaTe was
not known tlil too late ; and aldiough Mercurial fridion
was then ufed, ihe died.
For many years paft, difeales have been more frequent
in the hiUy part of the parifli than in the Catie. This had
been frequently oblerved by the late Reverend Mr George
Lyon of Oglci who was miniftcr of the pariih for more
ibaa
4)3 Siaii/HcfJ JtccMM
than 50 years*. InnocnhtiflD has besn priAiied hexe, flbl
many fubmitted to it diankfiiDy » when ftroogly raooomend-
ed to them Ibme years ago \ but fir fomt: time paft it iceois
to hsve been fofgotten*
ilfoA^ZM/i|f**-TheIiihabitBatsof this pariih are in geaa-^
xal indiifirious,qiuetaiid fober; foHKof dkem^ojintcfligeat
in their pro&i&ons; many of the better Ibct live exceeding-
ly well ; their tables are abundantly fiipplied witb erery oe-
ceflary, and fome with the hizuries of life* la geoenlv
the fiurmers aie well lodged, and bodi they and their £uiu^
lies are well dr efled. The lefler fivmeta and inamifii£hireB
aHb live well, and have plenty of good whoklbme fi>od;
snanyof them are fapplied with bntdier-meat at times; and
both they and-the labourers, not only ufe oat-meal and po>
tatoes, with the produce of their yards or gardens, but they
frequently ule wheaten bread, the confumpdon of friikh
has increaied much within thefe &w years, and there aie
Tery few who have families, who .do not ufe loa and its
accompanyments.
Farm S€nfimis.-^The farm lervants formerly lived wiib
the family ; and their ufual food was broth made of ksii
and barley, ot^^groitSf (unhuiked oats),.witheat meat, and
bannocks made of peafe and bean meal. Now they live
apart from the family in their bothie» and get what is call-
ed livery meal, t . #• % pecks of oat-meal /cr weekt and
3 choppins (quarts) of ikimmed milk per day.
Some
* The Atttbor of thb jmptr is bappjT in this opportnoity of ptjittg m ja&
tribute to fo wordiy * chy^fl-er. Duiiiig a miiiiftry of 50- jtMm tmd up-
wards, befides a very confcientions difchaz^ge of bis dutf ia bis offi«ial capa-
city, bis charity, benevolence, and' attention to the poor, made him ezticnr-
ly u£tM and much beloved. His chataarer was iitvproachable ; be wit»
a iinceitMiniilerofdieGofpel; s food Ghriftian ^ anda&faoDcfti
of Longforgan. 49I
Some attemfits have ktely been made to introdoce Jaeo-
l>me principles into this parifli % but by care^ attention, an^
proper exertion of the heritors, in fnpport of the country
police, it is hoped that the idle, the onprincipled, and iU-
difpofed, will be effedually prevented from difturbing the
public peace ; and that the good fenfe of the inhabitants in
general, who are loyal and well*difpofed, will teach otheia
to put a proper valoe upon diat mod excellent Conftitutioo,
under which all enjoy fo many blei&ng?.
Increafi i/ Popttiatian^^^Thzt the inhabitants of the pa-
riih are in general upon the increaCe, when compared with
Dr Webfter's return, has been already oblerved, notwith*
fianding that feveral cottages, and one confiderable village,
have been removed, to make room for larger £urms. It is
in the villages, however, that the addidon has principallj
taken place. By a furvey taken of the village of Loog«
forgan in 1775* there were then only 105 families in it «
there are now 126. Twenty-one families make X05 per-
Ibns at £ve a £unily, equal to nearly one-fixth of the whde
number.
ftul^-^Tht foftl commonly ufed by the inhabitants of
this pariih is coal, brought by water-carriage from the Frith
of Forth, and landed at Dundee, the bum*mouth of Inver-
gourie, or at Polgavie ) the medium price u&d to be 4 s. psr
boU, of j6 (lone Amfterdam weight, that is, about 6 d. pir
cwt.; but within thefe few years the price has riCea to
5 s. and upwards. This has introduced the uie of Englifh
coal from Newcaflle and Sunderland, which are now
much liked, and by many thought better, and in the
end cheaper. They alfo bum whins, (furz), and weedings
ef fin, but their dependence is upon coaL
Horfit,
494 Statiftical Account
Horjes. '^Thtre are in this pariOi about 347 horftt; of whkh
ten or twelve at noft are riding or carriage horiiea ; the reft
are all for the porpoTcs of agricnltore. There are fame
few brood mares, but not one fiallioa ^ and akfaoogh fome
few horfes are bred here, jet the prtndpal Ciippljr is firaoi
the weft country mtrkets.
CViff/^.— -There are about 900 cows and lim^ cakde in
this parilh. The cows are of Tarioos hrocds^ nod of aB
fizes ; and although many calves are brought npt yet there
is perhaps too little attention fliown to tfab fpeciea of fivn-
ing.
It has been a prafiice here with many brmera to take h
black-cattle from the higher lands, about the end of the
year, i. e. after Martinmas, and put them in tfacir flaw-
yard, where they continued, and got notbiag bnt ftnw
throngh'the winter, thefe were called winterens, and ofiially
paid from 6s. to xos. per head, according tothe fixe. It
was formerly a praAice in this parifh to ufe oKcn in the
plough ; but now there is no fuch thing in the whole pa-
rifli, except on the eftate of Littletown ; and thoi^ they
may be bred to go well either in the plough or caitt per-
haps to as good puTpofe as horfes, are much more eafily
kept up, and when urffit for the fiu-m can be fed to great
advantage, and will fetch a good price from the batdhcr ^
yet it is found, that they are not fo fit for the purpoies of
farming in this country, as their feet are too tender, even
when well ihod, for much work ; and much oartxng upon
hard roads lays them up entirely.
Sbeep.^^ThtTt are no flieep in this parifh, but fioch as
are kept for the ufe of families, except upon the eAate of
Mylnefield. Mr Mylne keeps about 400 of the Bakewell
breed, and as near the original ftock as he can procure.
Tbdc
cf Longforgan. 495^
Tbcle be prefers ta every other kind. He thinks that
they £uten much ibooer than the black-faced. He is mncb
incUiied to think that the lame field will &tte& as many of
the one kind as o\ the other ; and he is convinced, that the
qiiailtity of muttoa produced on the acre is certainly at lead
25 pir Citti. in favour of the poled iheep. Befides, as his
£mn is partly com, and partly grais« the poled iheep are
fo qoiet, and fo little difpo&d 'to ramble, that they are in
every refped preferable for fuch farms to the black-faced^
who are fo wild that no fence can keep them within bounds;
conleqaently, the lofi which' may be fuftaincd, from their
rambling difpofitioo upon fuch a fsrm, is beyond aU calcu-
lation. But the iheep kept for gentlemens families are the
black-faced wedders, brought from the Highlands at four
years old, if they can be had. They thrive well ; and,
when fed, weigh from 16 to ao lb. fer quarter, and are ez«
cellent mutton. Thefe are alfo fome Dorietfliire ewes for
early lambs, which have been fold in the Dundee market,
in January and February, at a guinea and %o s. each.
Calves^ — Calves are fed in this pariQi, and particularly
at CaftIe*Huntly, for veal, fully as good as any in England.
They are fed in a box, which is made of any coarle boards,
4t or 5 feet long, 4 or 44 high, and about a feet wide, in
proportion to the breed to be fed. The boards of which
the boec is made, are to be put fo dole to one another, as to
let in fufficieot air» but no more, as the exclufion of
light may be one elTential part of the procels. It ftands up-
on 4 feet ; at one end about 4 inches high 1 and the other a
inches <; whicb, with fmall holes in the bottom, drains it of
all welnefii. But« to make it ftill more comfortable, the
bottom Ihould be covered with ftraw or hay, which Ihould
be changed at leaft twice a week. The calf is put into this
koa^wben n^w dropped, or as fooa after as poffible*, and
fop
496 Statiflical Acantni
fat the firft week milk ihoiild be given it cantiouflj; after
which it maj be given more freelj ; and when aboat tea
days old it fhould be bled. It may then get as much fweet
milky freih from the cow, as it can take^ three times a-daj;
and a large piece of chalk fliould be hnng in the boX|
which it will lick occafionallj. The bleeding (hoiild be re-
peated once a week, and it will be fine veal ^ ten weeks.
It fliould never be .kOled fooner^ but three mondis, or
even older, the veal will be excellent, and will weigh
from xo to XI ftone, of 16 lb. each. The freqnent bleed-
ing prevents difeafes from plethora, which calves are fob*
jed to, even when not fo high fed ; And ftill more when
they are. And the chalk contributes nothing to the
whitenels of the veal, but it amufes the animal, and it cor*
reds the acidity in the ftomach, which might otherwife
happen, and which frequentljr does happen. At all dmes
when they loath the milk, and do not feed well, let them
be bled. A cow calf is the beft for veal. If a bnll cali^
he fliould be cut at about a week old, otherwife the veal
will neither be fo good nor fo white.
Pigs. — ^Pigs are in general to be found in the frrm-yanb
of proprietors only. Thofe in this parifli are moftly » if not
all, of the Chinefe breed, which are never meafly ; bat
fometimes they lofe the ufe of their feet, of which they
feldom recover. They are very prolific, and eafily bnmgfat
up ; they pick up their food in a (traw-yard,. or about the
doors, and live upon what otherwife would be loft. They
may be fed upon clover, yams, potatoes, or the refufe of the
kitchen, and will fatten upon damaged com; but if flmt
up for eight or ten days, and fed upon ground peale or
beans, at a very fmall ezpente, they become excellent
ineat at all ages; indeed all their corn (hould be ground;
yxj fine is not neceflary ; but if w^l bruified between
roIlei%
ofLon^organ. 497
roliersy or brok:en in a mill, it will be fotmd by ezperiencep
that much leis will nooriih, and even fatten pigs, as well as
all animals of every fpecies ufuallj fed upon corn. There-
fore, to breed pigs about a farm, and to feed all beftial upon
bniifed grainy inftead of whole com, are really great im<-
provements in agricultural economy \ but the praAice is
not general here } and the country people ftill retain fome
prejudice againft pork ; but it is wearing out gradually.
PairAi7.*-PouItry of all kinds are bred in this pariih»
turkeys, geefe, ducks, hens, &c. } but the fowls are certainly
much fewei^ number iince the praftice of letting large
farms began* All the Imall farmers, acre-men^ and every
village«hou(e^ formerly paid fo many fowls (kain) as a part
of their rent, which was a mean of keeping up the breed»
not only for the fupply of the country round, but alfo to
anfwer the demand of the market-towns in the neighbour*
hood. Now, the viUtigen pay none, as it was a conftant
caufe of difpute with the farmers, and even amongft them-
felves. However, mofi of the great farmers pay kain, al-
though they are very averfie to the pra£Uce. But the land-
lords infift upon it, as the only means of preferving the
breed from total extindion ; at the fame time, many far*
mers throw the burden upon their cottars^^d make thcnl
pay the kain as part of their houfc'rent. In all old leafes it
made a part of the agreement, that fo many capons (hould
be paid annually, as part of the kain, and then they were in
plenty i but as they have not been eza£led for fome tim^,
now there is (caree a capon to be found in the country.
Pignm^i-^Thttt are eight doire-cots, or pigeoif-boufes, in
the pariih. The pigeons aTe exceedingly fine ; but they are
a very expenfive delicacy to the farmer ; yet they are till
fome advantage, for their dung, either mixed with chaffl or
not, and fown upon the furface, and either harrowed in with
Vol, XIX, jR «&•
49' Statijical Jccount
the ieed» or fuffered to lie, efpedbllj if the weadier be mtii
and wet, makes a moft ezoeUent top-drcffing for any crop.
Game* — ^There are pleotj of hares, partridgeay ploTcis,
and Inipes. The two hft are mudi diminiihed in number,
fince the marihy grounds were drained (b completely. Tbe
land-rail is often heard, but feldom feeo. Woodcocks alb
take this parifli in their root, and are exceeding fine. Some
yean ago there was a omfiderable colony of herooa in this
pariih : They occopied a circle of fir-trees which fiuromukd
an old bnilding, near a piece of marihy groond, upon the
eftate of Cafile-Huntly ^ but when the grounds were drtb-
ed, and the trees cut down, the herons hovered abom the
place a year or two, and then emigrated entirely. Theit
are a great number of crows, (rooks)| particularly aboitf
Cafile-Huntly, where they have fpoiled the beantifal tops
of many full grown trees. They are alfo very deftrodtfe
to young plantations, to potatoes, peafe, and beans, wfaea
they firfl begin to ihew themfelvea above ground, and pa-
haps to other grain alfo i but as they devour grabs, sad
other pernicious infeds, it is not improbable but tbcyds
more real good than ill to the fumer. There are alfo car-
rion crows, (hoddies, as they are called here), and hawks,
but not very numerous. There are great numbers of hedge-
hogs found in this pariih.
Fox^i.— Foxes alfo fometiroes come down from the piant-
angs upon the hills, and pay unwelcome vifits to the poultry-
yards i and fome winters, a drolling red-deer has now wtd
then made its appearance, even in the low grounds of thb
parifli.
The furface of this parifli is varioos i what lies next die
xiver is carfe * day *, the foutbem dedivitiea of the hills coo-
fift
« Car/e, probably from the word Cam, ufed in the noith of £flg1aadt fs*
IcTcl land on the banks of a river or axm of the fea.
^ Longforgan. 499
lift, for the mod part» of rich black loam. Some parts
are covered with a foil of a particular rendilh colour, but
verj prolific when well drefled ; the country people call it
mortaTy i. e. a kind of clay mixed with gravel, and very dif-
ferent from carle clay. The upper part of the pariih 13 oC
a very inferior quality.
About 40 years ago, not half the clay grounds in this
pariih were fubjeft to the plough \ the ridges were broa^
unequal and crooked, and their crowns only were arable,
between which a broad fpace, which they called a baui^
and which confificd of half of each ridge at leaft, was left in
natural gra£i, upon which the fiurmers padured cattle, and
-which, in winter, was generally covered with water ; even
the forface of thele banks was pared off, and fold for build-
ing and covering houfes ; and the fanner confidered his di^
votSf i. e. the pared furface, as an arride of profit. Clover
and fiiUow were then unkaowti j and the clay between For-
gan and the river, which is now the richeft part of the pa-
ii(h, was then fo poor, and fo unprodudive, that tenants
could (carce be got upon any terms ; the bell of it fcarcely
yielding double £sed. Every encouragement therefore was
given ; the grounds were drained and fenced at the. land-
lords expence, who alfo gave lime, on leafes for 38 years, to
cnaUe the tenants to improve the land, and indemnify
themiclves for labour and expence. At prefeat, tho
ridges in the clay are ftill in moft places unequal and crook-
ed, as it is exceedingly difiicult to change their diredion,
without very materially injuring the land, and not poflible
but at a great expence ; but tbe whole furface is quite dry,
and the water effisdnally carried off by meaps of deep
ditches round and through every farm. There are no
batiks; but tiie whok is highly cultivated, well limed, and
kept in good heart by proper management and a regular
rotatioa
^oo StatiJKcal Jcetmnt
rotation of cropping } of which dover and fdlo^r alwajk
make a part.
Gmfral Improvemenis. — In 1760, a piece ef nncaltiTaced
moor ran acrots the whole pariflifrom weft to eaA, oonfifi-
ing of between 500 and 600 acres, and jielding nothing but
heath, broom or whin (iurze). In 1761, it was divided bjibb-
miffio!i amongft the adjoining proprietor, and now no pan <£
it i& uncultivated. About 100 acres of it are covered with fine
thriving plantations ot fir and lariz, from 30 years ^Ad *sA
upwards ; about as much is under the plough, and the reft
laid out in beautiful grais parks, and makes part of the efiate
of Mylnefield, improved bj the prefent proprietor at a vtxj
great ezpence, almoft equal to a purchafe of the ground, but
which 16 worth now from 40 s. to 45 s. ferammm.
That part of it which fell to the etUte of Gaftle-Hotttlj,
was either planted with fir, larix, and other trees, or let to
tenants \ to fome of whom lime was given hy the pri^e*
tor, at the rate of 45 holb per aore *, and to others naari, sc
the rate of 5 " bolls ^#r acre f , to enable them to improve the
ground. So that what was fcarce worth anj thing befbie
the divilion, twenty years ago, was let at 5 s. pgr acre, and
now gives lo s. and 25 s. and upwards. But the rife of
rent was gradual, as the improvement of the land eoabkd
the tenant to pay.
Formerly the hills, and all the upper part of the pariik,
were one continued uninctofed moorland fur&oe, with
fcarce a habitable houfe upon them. The proprietors then
were either unable or unwilling to lay out money opoo
their eftates, and were happy to. get tenants who had mo-
ney |o fpend and a fpirit to improve ; therefore, to facb,
they were willing to give long leafes, as the only meaas,
without expence to themfelves, of reitnborfing tl^ tenant
for his time, trouble, and expence, while their eftates were
improving
' fOiuleaowB lime, sad wbmawafore. f A cabe of s 6et.
of Longf organ. 501
improving at the fame time. Several of thefe leaies aie
(1796) unexpired at'this daj. In 1767 two efiates were
let in thu parifk for three nineteen jears, (57). They
were at the time perfedlj open, uninclofed, and almoft im«
caltivated, and the whole buildings upon both of little or
no value. The tenant built new houfes, repaired the old
ones, particularly a manfion-houfe on each, inclofed a great
part with fubftantial flone-dikes, (walls of dry ftone about
4 or 5 feet high), and the reft with thorn-hedges, planted
about 60 acres of trees of all forts, limed and marled and
drained the whole groundst which were then fpoutj and
wet, and by that means greatly improved the eftates ; fo
that what was let, in 1767, at L. i ja, los. in 1784 was va-
lued at L 300 ; and now (1796) thej yield a rent of L.36o
per annum and upwards. But thefe improvements were
done at a very great expence by a ikilful farmer, who ap-
plied the money with judgment.
Another efiate, of about 300 acres, in 1777, brought a
rent of L.65, which now pays L. 305, befides 75 acres of
very thriving plantations, which were at that time not
worth more than 2 9. p^ acre on an average. They were
valued lately by a nurfcryman at L. 3375 Sterling. Their
weeding! yield about 10 s. per acre per annum \ and if thej
continue to thrive equally well, may, w)ien fifty years oldf
be worth four times the fum.
The eftate has alfo been improved at a great expeace, by
dreiEng the fields, inclofing them with good fences, build-
ing mills upon the bum, (a fmall rivulet), which runs
through the eftate, and al(b farm and cot-houies.
Another eftate in this pariflii purchafed within thefe few
years, which was then perfeAly open, and in very bad or-
der, is now inclofed, with good ftone and thorn fences, well
divided in handfome fields, and about aoo acres planted
with all kinds of Irees, which are in a very thriving condi-
tion}
503 Stati/Hcal Account
lioa; fb that, now, its value is alreadj douUed, if not
more.
Ai>oat eighteen jean ago, in the inleroaediate fyacc be*
tween the bank of Forgan and the clay, there were aboot
20 acres of moralTy ground, called the Latch, £0 much im*
pregnated with water, that in many places k could not
carrj a horfe. To improve this, and render it nrebk, a
deep ditch was dog along the bottom of the brae-laad, (fi-
fing ground), to cot off the fprings from above, and the
fpace divided by crols ditches, with anodicr between it and
the day to carry off the water \ and now the whole ia fine
arable land, as tgood as any clay (oil in tbe carfe. It was
let then at 5 s. f^r acre ; it is now worth from jo s. to
\Mipir acre.
Embanking. — ^The encroachments made by the river Tay
iqion the Garfe, part of its bonndaries, having made the pro-
prietors of thefc lands think of embanking for their de£ence ;
the late Mr Crawford of Monorgaa, who was die only heritor
in this parifli whole lands were in danger, began to ess-
bank about thirty years ago, and bailt ftooe-Senoes at a ¥crj
great ezpence; but being injudicioufly coaftmded, and
built of bad materials, they have required repair almoft e-
very year. Now, fince Mooorgan has been annexed to the
cftate of Caftle-HuDtly, the proprietor has begun to tm-
bank upon a new plan. He has cut the earth into floping
banks, falling to its greateft height at an angle, everywhcrs
mnch above 45*, and paving the whole extent of the fiope
as far as the tide reaches, with good long ftones, widi their
ends inwards, and towards the land; (o that tbe waves
wafli over it, and, as they meet with no refifiance, they do
no injury. Tbe expence of this is no doobt confideraUe,
but perhaps not much, if any thing, more dian what has
been done by other carfe proprietors along the banks of the
liver, and bids fair to he infinitely more (foraUe. However
ht
of Longf organ. §03
lie liaa this year tried to fence after another manner. He
lias drawn a line, within water-mark, at a confiderabk di«
fiance from the beach, and upon it laid down ftones, not
built, nor very regular, hut in fuch fort as to form a broad
bafe, and to narrow gradually towards the top, and about
5 or 6 feet high« This bulwark of ftones is expe&ed to
break the force of the flood-tide, even in ftormy weather^
£0 that it may beat with le(s violence againft the land ; and
as in the refluac it will certainly cau£e a coniiderable fpace
of dead water, a greater quantity of mud or fediment will
be left behind, which, in time, will probably increafe fo
sfiuch in bulk, and alfo in firmne&, that reeds may be plant-
ed with a probability of fucceis ; and if they once are efta-
bliihed, the fence will bid fair to be durable : Alfo at ano-
ther place, where the river ajpproachcs nearer to the braes
(high banks), he has dug a trench of about 3 feet deep, and
as broad, the outfide nearly perpendicular, but perfefily co*i
vered with die beach ; the infide floping upwards to hu-
mour the acclevity of th^ bank. In this trench are
thrown ftones, as regularly as it can be done by a common
labourer, and, when the trench is full, more ftones are laid
np, fo as to cover the face of the bank higher up than any
tide flows. From the folidity of the foundation, and the
gentlene& of the acclivity, this alfo is ezpe^ed to anfwer.
If either of thefe do, they will (ave much expence ; bat of
that experience muft judge*
Levelling in Clay — ^The ridges upon the day part of the
Mains of Caflle-Huntly were crooked, unequal, irregular,
and liable in rainy feafons to be drenched with water, when
Mr Paterfon got pofleifion of it in 1779* ^^^ ^^ '^^ levelled
the whole, except one field, which does not require it fo
much } ftraighted all the ridgesi rounded them fufficientljr
to
504 ' Stati/lical Account
to cany off the wster, and no morci and a»de them all dt
x8 feet broad.
He made the firft attempt to level in a manner reoooi-
mended by Dr Anderfon ; bot he found it too difficok to
execute, perhaps from not clearly onderftanding the Doo-
tor's method. He therefore did the whole with the ^pade-
He firft opened a trench of about to feet wide, and extend-
ing from end to end of the field, in the fame dire&ion he
meant to lay the ridges, laid up the upper furfi^e of the
xo feet trench upon the fide of the ditch, to be removed
afterwards ; then m%de up all the low fpaces, or fomoer Ar-
rows, with the underfoil, from the crowns or rifing groonds,
with fpade^nd wheel-barrow, if near, and if at a H;ifein^,
with carts. He raifed this trench with the underfoil, a]fi>
brought from both ends, towards the middle of the field, is
fuch fort as to form an inclined plain, falling off at bodi
ends, and to drain it completely by its own furrows, which
were to run into the ditches on each fide of the field* When
this imderfoil had got its proper ihape, he marked off an«
other 10 feet trench, and, with the fpade alone, threw the
upper foil of the fecond trench upon the new formed under
foil of the firft, ib as to cover it completely with the Cuno
cultivated earth uppermoft, which had been the upper fur*
£ice before ; and fo on through the whole field, until be
came to the laft trench, upon which, when the proper fhape
was given with the under foil, the upper £ai], whidi had
been laid up upon the edge of the firft trench, was carted
round and laid on, which completed the operation. The
appearance of the field then was uniform and regular, rifii^
in the middle, and falling off at both ends towards the
ditches which receives the furface water. Ii was thai di*
vided into 18 feet ridges, and continues fo ^ and by this
means the whole field was levelled, without burying any
part of the origbal furface. The ezpence o£ diis^ npcm >
ten
^longfhrgafu 505
Ictt acre fieU, which wis the laft dooe^ was nearly aboat
Is. 6 per acre for labourers, alone, ezclnfive of carts, horles,
and &rm.(e(vants. Bat the whole might very probably
have been done at about luSper acre, including every est-
pence. The fiime year, that field was well dnngcd and
limed, and ibwn with wheat, and yielded very near 14
bolb^ Scotch acre, near 74. quarters Whincheftcr meafure.
Wages are higher now; but ftiU he thinks it would be
well worth while to dreis m^y fields in the Carfe in the
bmc manner. It is alio worthy of remark, that the fidd
mbove naentioned had originally been a meadow, with a
great part of it mois, and before it was levelled and drefied,
the middle of it was fo low and wet, it fcarcc ever bore a
crop worth reaping*
Smface-draming M (7J^.— As clay is' ^rSsAly imper-
vious to water, furface-draining is the only means by which
this fpecies of improvement can be accomplifhed ; and all
ever the Carfe of Cowrie, this operation b extremely
fimple^ There are certain large common drains, which
pais through the diftriA in different diredions, iufficiently
capacious to receive the water drained from the fields by
the ditches which furround thein, and of fuch a level as to
carry it clear off, and to empty their contents into (he river
Tay. There are alfo ditches which furround every farm,
«r pais through them, as their fituations may require, but
in fuch manner as to communicate with every field upon
the fanb. Thefe ditches are made from 2 td 4 feet wide
at top, and from xj- to t foot at bottom ; a ihape which
Iprevents their fides from filling in } but even then they
mull be deanfed ahd Icoured every year at a confiderabla
ezpence. If the fields be of an uniform level furface, the
common farrows between the ridges, provided they be
fiii&ciently deepened at their .extremities, will ferve to lay
Vol. XIX. 3-8 the
So6
Statj/Hcal Account
the founds dry ; but as it feMom happens that any fidd ifl
the Carfe is fo completely free of ineqoaliciesy the laft ope-
ratiooy after it b fown and harrowed in, is to draw a fiarrow
with the plough through every hollow in the field, which
lies in fuch a dire&ion that it can be guided through tbcia«
as at a a a; and fo as to make a free conununicatioa widi
any of the furronnding ditches, or with any ^ the fiofrovs
Fig.
between the ridges, as at
b b b b, which may fisnrc as
a condufior to carry the
water off to the ditches up-
on the extremitiea cccc
When this track is ooce
opened frith the pioogfa, it
b widened, cleared out, and
fo fhaped with the fpit^
that it may run no ri&
of filling up. Its width
ihould be fix>m 6 inches to a foot, according to its <kpdi,
Fig
1
which
upon
muft depend
the level ef
the field; but the
breadth of a fpade st
bottom is a good gene*
ral rule. It frvqoentljr
happens, that there are
inequalities in fcTcnl
parts of the fiune field,
which do not extcsd
whoUy acrols it, cs
which do not pa&
through it, in any dfredion that a plough ean follow -, but
which may extend over two ridges, d d, or one ridge, e, or
even part of a ridge ^ fuch require an open conunuaicaticHi
t»
4^f Longforgan. 507
to be made with anj conduffiog furrow, to carry off the
water, which are always mad^ with the fpade. All theie
open commuaicatioos are here called goat ; and to keep
them perfe&iy clear b a very eflential part of trtrj Carfe
farmer's attention. It is as yet a general pradice in the
Carfe to have bead-ridges, as they are called, at the twd ex-
tremities of each field ; i. e. the ground upon which the
plough turns is laid up in the Ihape of a tranfverfe ridge,
higher in the middle, and falling off at each fide $ fo that a
gaa is made in the courfe of the inner furrow, as at f f f f,
with which the whole furrows between the longitudi-
iial ridgea communicate, and into which they pour all
their furface water, which is carried off by fimilar gaas, or
openings, cut through the head-ridges, at convenient diftan-
ces,.as at g g g g, and by which the whole is emptied into
the adjoining ditches, cccc, and by* them into the main
drain.
It is fuppofed that it woold be a much better plan, in-
flead of formmg head ridges, as above deicribed, to lay the
earth up to the ends of the longitudinal ridges uniformly,
which could eafily be done with a little more trouble, by
returning with an empty plough, Thei^e would then be no
dcpreffion between the longitudinal and tranfverfe ridges,
of courfe, no occafion for a gaa; and by cutting fairly
through the head ridges oppofite to every longitudinal fur-
row, a freer paffage would be given to the furface-water
from the whole field to the adjoining ditch, and, of courfe,
the dniinjog be more complete; This method Mr Paterfon
has followed upon all the fields which he has levelled, and
which b reprefented by the Fio. 2.
Befides all thefe, an experienced Carfe farmer will take
care that his ground is carefully plomghed ; that the land is
Isdd up equally ; that no inequalities are left, fo as to hold
water i that the ridges are properly rounded, neither too
high
58o StatiJlkaJ Account
high nor too low, hot as near a) poffibk to the fefiioo of a
krgc circle r By which the for&ce-wator will eafflj draia
off, without lodging) and while the crowns are not too
much enriched, nor the iurrows isnpoveriflied, the whok
will be made cqnally fertilct dij, and prolific, and not on-
frequently be acceifibk to the plough earlier in tbe fpmg
than the fields upon the declivities of the fbrroonding hi&i .
and the reafon is obvious, becaufe there is no fpouts, no na*
der-ground water to get rid of ; nothbg bat ^IbpeifiGisI
moiftnre alone*
Draming im loam ami imSmimg FiVZir^— The tanAust
dedivities of the hills in this parifii, in general, ooofift of fid
loam, which b exceedingly prolific. Bnt as the fitr&oe '%
irregular, and as the fubfirata confift of rocky ptotobciaaces,
veins of fand, and, in*fome places, impervions till or Idiit
tos; while, in a natural ftate, they are l^ooty, and mtil they
are drained, in many places they are totally incap^k of
any agricultural improvement. The manner of drainii^
thefe is various, according to the fliape and lie of tlie field,
and alfo of the dtftrent places where the water fliowa itUt
If from one fpring only, and if that can be cut off from tlie
grounds above, the ta& is eafy ) but if the fpoofes or ^rn^
are many, or if the appearance happens in fitvoral phcei,
and no original fpring be difoovered, the drains snaft W
carried through the field, in foch a manner as to cooununi-
cate with every place where the water af^ean, and this ti
in general done according to the ikill, experience, or fioae*
limes the uprice of the farmer \ fomedmea ?ig"iag»
^lAngfurgan.
50f
in dug "Y^ h&im\
and Ibme.
tiaicsy e-
fecciall 7 ]£
diefidklwmadmitofit,amab dnb is earned diagooaUy
from corner to comer of tbe field, with other dnins, leading
rithcr through, or fiom ewj fpoaty part of die field, thus*
whidi is called leathering; but if
there hi^pens to be rock j protu«
berances, the drains mnft he care-
fully guided round them. The&
drains are formed thus : A ditch
is dug, in anj dueftion the &r«
mer may think proper, at kaft
three feet deepand two feet broad,
(narrower may do if the ftoncs be
fcaroe), and the whole ihoidd be left open till it fhoold be
feen whether thole made are fuffideot to drain off the water
from all the fpooty parts of the field.
The next thing to be attended to, is to take care that
the bottom of the ditch be lower than any vein of land
which touches it, or which communicates with it; other-
wife the drain will be of no ' nie ;. as die fiudy reins will
condnfi the water whererer diey reach, which rrill bnift
out at die firft obfimaioii. Satisfied in tfaefe particular^
the ditches may be filled, from one fiootto x8 inches as die
jfuandty of water may require, with finall ftones, brd&en
fs fttipoiei and laid in as irregularly as poffiUe* Over
5IO Statiftkai Accmmi
thefis, a ecMt of fix inches of firaw, fane, or bfoam k Ud,
to keep the earth wluch is now filled in orer it, from crisd-
fing through, and which ia time forms a matted coat, aod
leaves about a foot, df 14 inches of ixabat above. The
furze or broom is better than the ftraw, bat good gTavd,
free of earth* if it can be had, is better than either. U that
(bould not be jadged of foffidentdepth for the plough the
ditch may be made deeper at firft. Thefe imder-groond
drains are called here fivers, and, if carefdUy cooftroAtd at
firft, may remain in good order, and anfwcr every ptirpde
cxpeded from them fi>r many years, while the whole field
q>pears one omfbrm forfiice. Mr Paterfoo drained n ficU,
ib foil of rocky protuberances that he vtas obliged to &ci
his way with an iron rod, to know where thercL-sm fpaoe
cnoogh between the rocks to guide the druato be aaade.
InJhrummU fff HuJbatuby.'^Thit inftruoients of fanOun-
dry commonly oied in this pari(h, difier very little from
what is oled in the neighbourhood.
Then are laa ploughs, all of which, at leaft fuch as good
ibroKra ufc, are of Small's conftro^Uon, with iron mould*
boards, or generally fo. Some imaller &rmcr9 indeed nfe one.
- which p«n*^^^ of the old Scots plough, and which they caQ
a mongrel ; bot it is. a very inferipr inftrumcnt. A boot
twenty years ago, and even leis, four horfes, two and two
abreaft, wore frequently fren in the plough, with one man
holding and another driving; fometimes with three horfes
^d ^t wo. men : But now, ploughing is entirely performed
with two horfes abceaft, with one man who holds a^d
dnves, except, upon very particular occafions, when hard
groan4 aauft be raifed by main forpe i and which requires
. Kbo exertion of frror horfes^
There
Tbete «re other ploughs ufed for itTSltA cropf, fiidi::as
potatoes, turnips, and beans. One oalM a fbraper, with<a
broad flat fodk, made to cut a fpace of about 6 inches, and
from each wing ot* the plough a thin plate of iron runs
down to the level of the Cocky with a cutting edge in the
direftion of the drill, and its point turned inwards, and fo
contrived, that thefe three, t. e. the fock a&d two wings,
lliallcut or brufli aloUg the whole fpace between the drills,
and cut up every weed at about 1 or 3 inches deep. This
operation is fucceeded by another, with a double-beaded
plough; the heads of which are fmaller than the common
plough, and fo contt-ived, with the flat fide of eaeh head
outwards, as to cut clofe to the edge of each drill ; and as
the mould-boards of each are of courfe upon its infide, it
turns the mould inwards, leaving a ridge of earth and cdl-
leded weeds in the middle of the fpace between the drills.
The whole drilling operation b finilhed with the double
mould-board plough : All theie are tempered with a rad&
and pin.
There is alfo a very ingenious inllrument ufed in this
parifli for fowing turnip. It is conftruQed thus: Two
wooden rollers, of about 8 inches diameter, placed on end
upon one axle, for convenience of turning, both together
occupying a fpace of 6 feet, fo as to flretch over two drills
at a time, are fixed by a frame to (hafts for one horfe ; and
behind this another frame of light wood is attached to it by
a rope or chain from its middle, in which laft firame is pla^
ced an iron axle, with a light iron wheel of 18 inches di»«
meter at each end, and to which axle sure fitted two boxes
with covers for fowing turnip, with cbndufiors, 'to which
are fitted iron points, moveable, fo as to open the earth and
drop the feed deeper or fhallower at pleafure. The boxes
alfb are moveable upon the axle, to be fitted to any di-
iUnce of drills -, and behind each condu&or a fmaU roller of
14 inches wide, and 4 inches diameter, moves in iheen to
rott
5t» Stat^al Aecomit
wAmfbttoeJL With dug iiiftnimeiit ooe mta amy. wdl
gmt takp bm tea 'Mm in a da j.
Barr^mSf Ifcr^Tbt harrows dcd here are of the com*
kiiidt with yet J £ttk diCereiiQe, obIj fome lifter
aodibma heavier, but all of diem have a crob Ipar fixed
vsfoa one fide, aboitt 3 feet kmg, and about 6 or 8 ioches
high, which they call a rider, and which prevents die har*
lows firom overtoping one another, efpedally in tnniing. Mr
Pateriba,ibaie years ago, when the wheat feed time was voy
tainy, got a beam x8 feet long, made to the breaddi of the
vidges ; japon each esstremity of which he fixed an old fere-
wheel of a cOteh, and hung a fet of harrows to die besa,
ib as to take in the whole ridge at once } and to each end of
die beam attached 3 or 4 horfes, to go in the finrows io t
fine, by which the ground was completely harrowed, and
none of die feed trampled down with the horfes &et. TUi
he haaufed ever fince, when a wetfeafoo makes it oeoefiffj,
and with great advantage, and feveral fitfmers have foQov-
ed the esnanple. He alfo nfes another harrow for his dtiD*
cropa alone, and only when the ground is exceedingly bal
with couch grais. It is about a feet wide, and 5 feet ki^
with teeth fet in diagonal Unes, bnt fo as to leave no pact
of the fur&oe over which it goes untouched. On its fere-
part is a ftaple of iron* to which a fwingle-tree and traces,
are fixed for the horfe; and to its hinder part a handle «f
wood, aboitt 4 oi* 5 &et long, rifes up, and indinhig a httk
backwards i from the middle of which a light fpur of iroo
runs forwards, and b bferted into the harrow about its
middle. The whole Co contrived, thatihe man who drives
can eafily guide it, prels it down into the earth, or raife it
op, and leave the accumulafeed couch or weeds bdiind, at
pleafure.
Certs
if Lonifbrgan. 513
C^Ms. — The carts formerly ufed in this pariib, and which
s ftill generallj in ufe, meafare, in length, over the top of
4he coopft (box), 6 feet ; in breadth, 3 feet S inches ; in
depth, I foot 3 inches \ and narrowing a little towards the
bottom, fo as to contain about 26 cubic feet. But the coops
now introduced meafore, in length, 5 feet 3 inches, and
aarrowing at the bottom to 4 feet 8 inches ; and in breadth^
over the top, 4 feet 8 inches, narrowing to 3 feet 7 inphes
at bottom, and i foot 3 inches in depth. They contain
nearly the fame ^nbic meafure of z6 feet \ but from their
ihape, and being placed more forward upon the axle, they
are xnncfa lighter upon the horfe, and an eafier draught.
They anfwcr very wcU with one horie for mod purpofes ;
but with two they fatigue the horfes much lefs, even with
a much greater load.
Tbrq/bingrfnilL — In the year 1788, Mr Paterfon fet up
the firft thraihiog-'miU in this part of the country ; and now,
(1796), there are builc, and building, fifteen in this pariih
alone. Thb^v^y/tr/ machine is, perhaps^ one of the great-
eft improvements in farming which the age has produced \
hot it is now fo well known, a defcription is fcarce necef-
iaryy and not eafy to be underftood without a drawing *•
Vol. XIX. 3 T Machine
• The thnfluBg-mQl at CaiUc-Hnntly was built at firft by one James Mor-
fis, an inhabitant of Longforgan, taken from one which bad been fet np for
fome time before, at Mr Maini of Pous in Sturiingfture, and built by WiiUain
Jaffny, a mill-wright in AJloa, who finifiied the machine at Caftle Huntly
himfelf. It conGiled then fimply of a horizontal wheel over the horles
beads, placed in a fliade, and adjoining to the bam, with two levers of about
14 feet long, with a horfe to each, which turned a lying (haft by a pinion,
upon the other end of which was placed a vertical wheel, which turned a
cylinder, or drum, of about 4 feet diameter, and 5 feet long ; ipon which
vras fixed fix thnAen, and to which the com was conduced, u^te r being laid
Uppn 1 bmft of wood, by two fluted rollers, which were made to prefs
opoii
514 Stattjiifal MqowU ^
Machine fqr cUaning TVun/.— >>As yams* or Qorinaoi poU<»
toesy are no^, com^^ioto udi verfal ufe for borfes, 96 well as for
upon the com by weights, axul turned by 4 very Hnnple contriTancc on tie
lying (h*ft.
Upod the fappoiitiotk tSiat the mill thus conKm^ed fatd not fnffictem Tf lo-
city to thtelk tbecom pcrfe^y clean, it wis iltcred fomc time after by Mr
Mickle, alfo of Alloa, wlio added fanners, or a winnowing machine, to fcpa-
rate the com from the chaff j ar.d multiplying wheels, which increafed itc
velocity fo much, that with four threlhen only upon the dmm, if the hori-
sontal or horfe-wbeel went twice round In a minute, which horfes can eafily
do ♦ at their uftial' iiacK. the dnim will not e thnmgh s fpftoe «f %^<^ feet
apd tlie com psICof ^ivp^sb the nyUl )viU veccive 83 a flr^kea itt tfat.&ae
timet Bat this machine req«ire$ 7 or 6 m^n, and 4 Uoifes at leaft^ c^«
6 or 8 horfes may be put to, which makes the work much eafier. This icill
)ia<r threfhed and wtnriowed p^ bolls of wheat Linlithgow meafure, =to
5 quarters 1 pecks Winchcfter meafure, in 17 miniitet: but ^t W»s.{ff 1795,
for feed, when the crop was rich, and the ftraw ftiort; for it isto beoMemil,
that tlie power and execution of thrafliit^-mills 9 re various according to cir-
cumftances, independent of the machine itfelf ; fuch as, the richne£& of the
crop, and the lengthjof the ftraw ; If the crop T)e rich, and the ftnwfliort,
the mill will tkrafh' mOK in 1 given time } and, «iV« n)€rfa, VIx Mickk abb
reverfed the motion of the drum, and made it give the ftroke ii|iw»rds inficad
of downwards, as formerly, which was found to be a very great improvtiBeot,
and has been univerfally adupted ever fince.
Since that time, the threlhing mill has been ftill farther iroprored, by add-
ing to it a rake with four wings, which is turned by a ftrap 60m the lying
axle, and moves over a concave gnting, through which the com 611s into
the hopper of the iannen, while the ftiaker (as it is called) turns out tbe
ftraw upon a floplng rack, perfedly clean, and by diat means faves the laboar
of two men at leaft. And what is very remarkable, the moft approved nilb
now, after many experiments have been made, are built cxadlly upon tiw
fame principles with that built by William Ja0ray in 17SS, with the hori-
zontal or horfe wheel z6 feet in diameter, and the fpetr-whecl 4} feet, ind
the drum from 3 to 4 feet, which is calculated to Imake nearly about 90 re-
volutions for once of the horfe wheel. 'Iliis goes with great eafe witb fiwi
horfes; threfhes the corn pcrfedlly clean as far as nearly lo bolls in the bour.
One of the beft in the Carfe Is lately built by William Dick, wright m Dun-
dee, at Ballendean, and fartlier improTcmeots are flill going on. Very good
ffliUs
• Moving in a circU of ah<mt i%fttt diameter.
of LongfargtUU
SIS
every odier ^;>ecieft of beflaat upon the {isirtn, it may lie proper
to mentbn, that, for hoTfes« it b neceflary to clean them per*
feftly from all earthy particles which may adhere to them*
For this purpofe every farmer ihould have a machine for
wafliing them, to Ihorten labour. A fquare trough of wood,
well feafoned, and well
joined, fix ieet long,
and three feet wioe,
divided imo two a-
partments, the upper
one, a a b b, above
two feet deep, with a
bottom, b b, full of
{mall holes, to re-
ceive the yamS| and
the lower apartment,
b c b d, perpendicu-
lar on one fide, a b Cy
and the other three fides, b b c, flopping to a point at its
bottom, c, near which ^
plug, e, is placed, to let
the dirty water and
earth out at pleafurc ; and
while one man pumps
the water into this trough,
or throws it in with a
bucket, one or two men,
according to the quan-
tity, provided with birch brooms, rinfcs and cleans the yams,
^hilc aU the earth finks into the lower apartment, b be;
and
«ilU are oow built, fo « to wcrk eafily with two hoirfc, and thrcfli .ikJ cl«n
from s to 6 bolUin the hour. 8odie afe «Jib mack to go bf wlrr, and
ioae by meo, but not in this parilb.
^t6 StatiJHcal Atctmnt
«nd by drawing the ping, e, the whole earth and walcf |
iMy be let out at oncet while the yaois remain in the np-
per apartment quite dean and free of earth ; but if not
fi> well cleaned^ or if the earth be hardened about then,
by putting in the plug at bottom, the trough may be fil-
ed again with water, either that the yams may be rinfed
againv or remain covered, with the water as long aa maj
W fuffijcient to foftenCthe adlKring earth, whidi will then
feparate with the birch Kroom from the yams with ^reat
eafe.
Staeiimg Graiii.— -When the com i& cut down, the next
important operation in hufbandry is to get it in (afits and to
preliarve it foondf and alfo to proteA it from plunder bj
animals of every defcription, whether wild or domefiic*
The general method of building ftacks in this pariih is up-
on the ground, aad, if the com be win in die field, oo
precaution whatever is thought neceflary ; fo that, although
it be preferved found, it becomes a prey to rats and mice,
and to every animal which can get ih to tBe com«yard.
JL better method is to build the ftacks upon what is called
Statholls, which ait conflruded as under : A number of
pillars of ftone or wood, eight or ten or more, may be pla-
ced in a circular form, according to the diameter of the in-
tended fiack, and one in the middle of the circle ; all thcfe
are covered with caps of round (tones, projeding fo hi that
no rat or atty fucfi anTmal can get up from the ground ; and
the pillars are made about 2 feet high at leaft, to prevent
geele or turkep from drawing the com at bottom. Upon
ihefe fiones, a frame of wood is laid, and from the midttle
^f this frame a cone of wooden fpars is raifed, of about 4 or
5 feet diameter at bottom, and ending in a point at about
6 or 8 feet high, according to the height of the fiack^ of
which tho cones mud not be higher than the intake at far-
theft.
iff I/sngfitgM. J17
Aell. From tins cone, wooden pipes are laid acroft the
ftaek when bttildiog, and mre cut to its fliape. Thefe are
made of three rough fir boards, Terj partially fitted to each
odier, fo as to let the air pa& in all diredions amoogft the
IheaTes of com. BiK the principal ufe is to draw the air
op throng the cone in the centrct and guide it throaghr
every part of the fiack^ £7 which means, com may fafe-
I7 be taken mach ibonef in^^than when no fuchprecaift*
tion is ttfed *•
Formerly the finall fiumers and acremen had no tacks,
(leafes),' bat were tenants at will, and were alfo bound do#n
to all the fevere conditions, as already mentioned } and fo
little wa9 the intereft of the landlotd underfiood, or the te-
aant regarded, that fo lately, as between the year 1750 and
1760, it was an eftablUbed cuftom, that the Earl of Stiath*
siore*s officers, (who was the proprietor at that time), ac-
tually
• Thtre is ftill anather mediod, lately iotroduced hy » very refpedablt
f eotkoum f, not far from hence, bul not in this pariui, which is probably the
beft means of ^rererving and taking hi corn ercr thought of; which is, Sy
ftoilding frames of wood to tftty ezttont. opoa mUch the com is laid*
the breadth of two flnaves only, and a biodiag one in the middle, as upon a
fiielf* with the heads inwards, and for a depth of about 3 feet: Another (helf
«f wooden fpan is laid and fixed into the perpendicular (loops (uprights) m
fach fafliion as to prrrent any pretfure from the fuperincumbent (heaves.
Upon this (helf or fraibe the' corrr is again pUced, ih the fame manner, and
ever that another, and (b on. as high as you pleafe ; fo that the (hcaYC< be
looiely Uid, and receive from all quajten fuch a body of air as to dry and
win the com completely, even if taken in immediately from die hook, (fickle),
provided it be cut down dry. Whether this be a new thought or not is of no
, confe<]i]ence. The gentleman who has ititradaced it has great merit; and
although the ezpenceof bmlding tfie appaatos may psnrent the method fiooi
becoming general foon, efpecially as in ihofe fituations where the climate is
favottrahle> or the feafon dry« it is by no means (b neceflaiy, jet then ave
many places in tlus country, where fome fuch phn of preferring the Icoms
would be always ufeful; and there aret(bmetimes/eafot& fo unftvourable, a*
would make fuch a refource a very fortunate circumftaoce for all conecmed,
efpecially in faiall or middling farms. In very Urge farm* it may not be fb
f a(ily attainable.
t Captain Drttmm9f9d 0/ GardrMja.
5 i 8 Siaff/lkal AccwtU
tually fetzed upon one tenth of the crop j^arly, upon the
lands of Longforgaoi as pare rent, and carried it, com and
fodder, off the field ; and not one dared to lead a ifaeaf of
corn till that was done. Some time after, new tacks (leafes)
were entered into, more favourable to the tenant ; bat, in all,
flill fttch a number of feudal fervioes were required, as to
ihow thfe pradiee of former times, and how unwilling they
were to give them .up ; and, what is very extraordinary, ic
was not the landlords alone who were unwilling to give
them up : foi: in the year 178a, when the prefent proprie-
' tor of CafUe-Huntly propofed to convert all the Ceodal
bondages into a very moderate money-rent, fome very in-
telligent tenants were averfe to convert even the harvcfi-
bondage, which of all others was the mod oppreffivc, al-
though at the moderate computation of 10 d. per dzj per
Ihearer.
State in 1777.— 'In all the leafes delivered to the prefent
proprietor of Longforgan in 1777, there was very little dif-
ference from former cuiioms *, only, formerly, they were
bound to all fervices, and at all times. In thefe tacks, the
number and kind of Cervices were expreiTed. They were
all thirled to a particular mill, /. i». they were bound to
grind all their corns at the baron's mill : For the mill ot
MillhiU, to which Longforgan and all the eflate of Caftk-
Huntly were then thirled, although feparated from that ba-
rony, originally belonged to it \ and although the efiate of
Millhill had been fold out of the family, by one of the
Earls of Strathmore, yet fo little was the intereft either of
proprietor or tenant attended to or underflood, that be fuf-
fered his tenants upon the eftate of Caftle-Huntly, (then
Lyon), to remain bcuad to grind their corns at the mill, no
fonger his own.
RarJ
.(^ Longforgan. 519
Hand MiUs^^-rPormtvlj hand milk or ^ufms (as tptj aro
called)* were th^ lonlj inftrumeats uled in this poiintrj for
grmdipg corn ; .but it is probable, that when thofe were
found ..onequuil to the demand, mills were built by the
landl^d who J^ad water at his command, as a benefit to his
tenants .and retainers;. and that the > miller became bound
not only Xo grind.aU the corns ufed hj the tens^nts upon .the
eilate, but ^o^to lend for them and return them in meal ;
for which certaun multures in kind, that is certain quantities
of the cpms (n^iUm? toUs) were allowedi which w^ called
chirhige- The tenants were alfo obliged to give their help '
in preparing the com for, grinding, aod cleaning the mill-
lead, f. e. the traft vrhich conduds the water for the mill
wheel, lfc»
In thofe days, when mills were but few in number, the
privilege of getting -their corns ground might be a great
convenience at anj price ; but afterwards, when their num-
bers encreafed, and the millers became rivals for emploj-
ment, what was originally meant ^ an ufeful convenience
became a very great hardlhip. The baron, to keep up the
rent of his mill, obliged his tenants to grind all their corns
the.re as formerly, although they could have got their crops
manufactured cheaper at other mills, where, naturally, the
races were lowered to thofe who were not obliged to fre-
quent them, in order to invite cuflomers ; while the millers
became inattentive, negligent, and fometimes infolent and
overbearing, to thofe who were bound to their mill. Hence
the grievance of thirlage, which is fo much complained of.
Tads or Lea/ts Jormerly.^'^The tacks (leafcs) entered
into, between X 760 and 1770, with the greater tenants in
this parilh, were in general for 38 years, to themfelves,
heirs, executors and aflignees, with power to fubict. They
iverc all thirled to a particular mill ; their refiriClions were
loole
5^0 Statijlical Account
loofe and nngttardcd ; fubjeft to boDdage b harvcfi and t
certain number of carriages \ and, as tbe day of this parilh
was then in exceeding bad order, fime was giren by the
proprietor to moil of them, and a fmall rent in mo-
nej required for fome years ; after which ifacir tcax was
pardj in wheat, barlej and meal, deEverable betvcea
Chriltimas and Candkmas \ partly in money, eidier pij-
able at Whitfunday, or one>haif then and one-half ttLam-
maa or at Martinmas. Liferent tacks were then not us*
common ; and they fometimes extended to two or tbree
lives. In fome tacks (leafes) a very extraordinary dnfe
was introduced % the tfnant had kave to name any fife be
pleafed during his tack (leafe), upon which his pofieficd
was to continue.
Tach or Leafes xrotu.— At this day, there b no thirhge;
there is no bondage in harveft ; nor are the tenants boDnd to
days work in planting, &c. They pay their rents in mo-
ney and vi£hial only. They are not bound to go meflages;
and they only are bound to carry with their horfes vJi
carts, a certain proportion of coals for the proprietors &miljt
if they refide ; which is exceedingly moderate, and fooe
carts for lime, &c. which is feldom demanded \ but it is ex-
nreisly provided, that they (hall not be demanded either ia
ieed-time, or harvcfi.
J)ivifiofU into Sixes.^'la 1775, or thereabouts, the pnc*
tice of dividing the carfe farms into fixes, became pretty ge-
lieral ; and it became a daufe in moil tacks (leai'es), to have
x*6th of the &rm in fallow, i-6th in wheat, i-6th in beaas
or peafe, z-6th in barley, 1-6 th in clover, and i-6th in oats;
which pradice is faid to have . been introduced by the kte
Henry Crawford of Monorgan, £fq; and -it has been cassA-
i^ued in the clay by the beft farmei^ ever Qnce. SometiiDe
gftet
^Longforgm. 521
irfkcrthiSyitbeaaMapnffiQe with proprietors to givete--
nantt 19 years, and alio dieir own life added ; open the
principle, diat a man would certainly keep that £um in good
order, which be was to poffels during hi3 life. However,
that has been found to be fiiUacioua, as there are many
wealthy £auinen now, although not in this parifli, who after
their certain time is out, grudge to by out a (hilling more
upon their fiutas, left they (hould not live long enough to
get its value out of the ground ; and there are large farms
BOW £dling into decay fixMn this canle. So that frogi ex-
perience it would appear, that the beft terms for a tack
(leafeX is a certain fixed period of years ; if the farms
be improved, perhaps 19 years is as good as any ; although
.the odd year is not eafy to be accounted for, unleis upon
an inveterate partiality for odd numbers; for certainly^
eighteen yens, or three rotations, is much more natural ; but
if unimproved, the leale (hould be longer, to encourage the
tenant to lay oqt his money.
Pnfowt Ctmdiiion of Taeis or ZM/&i«--Now, the terms of
all new tacks or leaCes are generally for 19 years to them-
ielves,beir% and executors only, not ailignable, nor can the
tenant fubfet. He mud refide with his family and fier,
a. ^ his horiies, iervanti, and cattle, npon the fartn^ not to
fell any fodder ; hay and wheat-ftraw for thatch excepted.
He is to lay the whole dung he makes upon thetCitfm. He
is in general bound to the rotation of fixes : But now it is
thonght (nffident to bin4 the tenants not to fow any white
crop upon the clay, 1. e. wheat, oats, or barley \ but after
fidlow or green crop, which are declared to be lint, clover,
beans, peafe, tares, and the like ; and to keep one half
of the form under thefe crops during the currency of
the lea&i and the fome upon the rich loam ; potatoes,
yams, and turnips, or any fuch, are amongtt the interme«
Vqu XIX, 3 U diate
$%% Statj/Hcal Jcoont
diate crops | but it b thoogfit by Cmm to ht whfmju a gooi
pradice to bbd the tcaaat to tbe fins for the lift fix jcan
of the leafe* Up^a the lightor gnaad they ace prraBittcd
fo take three crops, one of thett a gteeii crop, mad the UL
a wUt^ crop» p> be town down W]|h fra&y and to pminaac
i& pafiue fipr two years at leaft. This givca a gnataer fi-
berty to the fanner in vujmg his crops, and camioc bart
the gronnd. He pays batfa boU of whe^« and half n boD
pi barley P^ acre, and.the reft in money.*, t|ie bnrl^ ddi-
verabk between Chriftaias and Caodkmas, and tlm wbeai
any time between that and the middin of Jnne, wben de-
nsanded, and the money at the Wbitfonday foDaering^ L e*
tstop I99J payabk 1796, and b on. The entry is gcneiaflj
to the honfes and graft, if there be any, at Wbitfondsy,
and to the land at the kparation of die crop dte £mdc year.
The qniyoifig tenant is generally permitted to StU his M
eropi com, and fodder, and alfo his dnng, bnt not tn csrrj
any oot of the barony, (manor), whidi is an old cdbm.
The houfes and offices are delivered to the tenant in good
repair, which he is bound to keep np, an^ ro-delivnr al the
expiry (end) of his leaie in eqoal good condition^ Sosk-
times they are appraifed, nd an to be giveii np of e^
valne.
Thdii i(i a great meafiqv explain the general princ^ks
of fiurmii^g in the carfe ground of dus pariih, and perhsps
it is the beft general mk that can be pven. But 1900
rich k^, they at prefient divide their fivnus into fire parts,
as they fhink fidkw rather a prejudior, in room ot mhiA
diey ufis driOed crops of potatoes, yams, turnips and beans,
which ckans the knd e&dnally. Lint and peak ate attb
fbwn as intermediate crops; and after all of whidi, wheat
is (bmetimes Town, and good crops obtained* After the
^beat, bsrky fcwn down with ckTcr and rye-grafii; then
oats, and then a deariag crop again.
^longfargan. 523
Refidutt Propriitors Farmen^'^ASi the rcfident proprie*
tors mre fiumen, which is reall j of more coolcqoeficey botK
to the coontr J and to themfelvet, than is generally iiaa^
gined \ for it is of confequtoce to the conntij to have pro-
prietors, who have both fpirit to adopt ahd to trjr new ex-
periments, and money to carry them into ezecotion. li^
ofefnl and advantageous, they will be examples to their
tenants ; if they fitil, they call alibrd the lofs. Bat it b im-
poffible to effimate the advantage to themfdves ; for it en«
nbles them to jadge of the exaft extent a fitrm ought to be
of for a certain number of horfies and men, 9tA ho more;
and will make him a competent judge of the value of hia
fiirms, and prevent him from falling into that ihoft injudi*
cioos error, of increafing his rents beyond What the farms
ca& aSbrd to pay.
RgmariaUe Cbamgi of PropeHy.^'^t is very remtokable,
diat near 6-7ths of diis parilh has changed its proprietors
within leb than 30 years.
That one of the moft confiderable eftates in it was (old ia
16x5 for 40,000 merks Scots, equal to L. 2222:4: 5-^
Sterliag \ and in 1777, it Ibid again for L. 46,000 Sterling.
ValmtofLanitM i66i
.—That tte rat efthat iHiok «fi«M
imi66jtn$t
Whett,
aTdboib.
Barky,
MS
Cm,
6a
Meal,
aso
Ftafe,
3«
AtUsBcMpwhoUiBi^ bons,Talii.dat L.345
ft
4
Money rent,
Sterl4
100
0
0
L.445
T
4
/«
514 Stati/Hcal Accomtt
In I7i9,^— In 1719, it was,
Wheat, 213 X X
Barley, 197 o x
Meal, 140 % 3
Oats, 80 o o
B. 631 o X Tallied at 10 a. 5 d. per boll,
, oyerbead, L*547 9 6|
Money, - 205 o ii^
SterL L.75a 10 €
But take the vidoal mt the fame price as in 1667, t. e. at
L. 5 Scots ^ boll, overhead, the rental will be 631 bdls,
at 8s. 4d. = - - L,a6a 18 4
L.a46o : XX : 4 Scots money, = - 203 0 11
SterL L.467 19 3
No great diffisrence of rent ^ nor much proof of improve-
ment in that period.
/a X750. — ^In X750, the whole rent was xo,ooo merb
Scotch, and given as a jointure ; in Sterling money,
L.5S5 *« ^T
The widow went abroad, and let the eftatefer 420 o 0
In X 77 7, when the eftate was fold, calculat-
ing the wheat at ao s. and the other viiftual
at xa %*pir boll, the rent was - 14x1 a 6
Value the viftual in ^^6^ at the fame rate,
and the rent would have been then, 707 x6 0
The yearly rent now is more than the whole valoe of the
fee-fimple, when it was fold to Lord Strathmore in 1615.
It IS worthy of remark, that in X667, above 3-4d]s of the
rent was pud ki kind.
That to X750, for near a century, very little altention
had taken place in the value of property.
ef Longfergan. 525
/it 1777.— That in 1777, the rents doubled what they
were in 1750, in confequence of the lieginaing improve^
ments in agricttltnre at that time.
That in 18 years more, i. e. in X795» die value tXpro^
perty aAuallj doubled what it was in 17779 and from the
iame cavrfes, added to the decreafed valne of money.'
RetHs/rom 1750 to 1796.— -About the year X750, the
beft clay fitrms were let at 5 s. per acre. A few years after,
when valued for newleafeSy they were fuppofed to be over-
rasrd at los. In 17591 the fame &rms were let at 17 s«
In 1782, they rofe to 25 s. In 1786/they were let at 45 s.
And the fame lands would probably let now at 50 s. per
mere at kaft. f
Moft of the cfiates in the parifli, indeed all of them, may
be laid to have been improved in the lame proportion, but
at an immenfe ezpence to the pn^rietoirs, who have fpared
neither labour nor money, in fencing, draining, boildiog
houfes, fnmifliinglime.aod marl to tenants, relieving them
of all feudal burdens, .fubfcribing largely to turnpike and
parochial roads, and planting in fuch lands not fo fit fer
other agricultural purpoTes.
Rtafons fir ibis Increa/e.-^Thtte improvements appear
afionilhing ; but notwithftanding which, although they add
greatly to the general ftock of natiomd wealth, yet the in-
creafe of value in property b by no means of fo much real
advantage to the landholders as at firft fight may appear.
For, in the firfi place, the ezpence of the improvements is
almoft equal to a purchafe ; and as labour of every kind,
fcrvants wages, and the ezpence of every neceflary of life
are doubled, and many of them trebled in that time.
No doubt improvements in agriculture have done wondersi
but
gi^ SiaHJikai Accguht
toe it k mode J fidUng ia vdoe which ia the real cauie of the
dtfoefioe, both of receipt and ezpendtture. The high reoo
likewife may appear eztraordinarj to our oeighboiiri is
Esglaody particttlarlj ; hot it muft be coafidered, that the
Scotch acre is x*5th larger than the Engliih, and the Scotch
IStfmer literally pajra nothing bat hii rent. All taxes, bodi
King's and parochiali mbifter's ftipend, and everj kind of
public bnrdeni is paid by tiie heritor.
BraSiaJ JlgricubUral RMiarib<— Althongh fiJlow be
die moft approved method* and generally thought to be die
beft pfeparalioQ for wheat upon elay, yet asany veiy jadi«
^ns fiumers ieem to think that lint and elovcr are piefier*
able upon loam; only it is certainly extremely proper t^
obferre the fame rale, of ne^r fowing two white crops ia
focoefflon. If this be the praftice, a cleaning crop of pota«
toes, yams, drilled beans, or turnip, will always be ncocf*
iaty to make one of the rotations.
All roots are certainly fixmrging crops, and eiiiaaft the
ground ; and althoo^ the praAioe be pretty general to take
wheat after potatoes, it b perhaps not the beft &nning ; at
any rate, it is not to be depended on in this country ; for in
rainy autumns, there is fuch a riik of poaching the grosnd
in taking tlfem up, ahd in dunging tbe land afierwaidsi ss
td make it totally unfit f6r a wheat-feed. However, if tbe
feafion bo favourable, and the ground in good heart, it may
do very welL Even very tolerable wheiat crops have beeti
gtft after turnip.
There are many fitfdiers ia the Carfe now, who ps/
little regard to the ufual rotation of fixes. It is true, they
fbU divide their turn into fixies} but they make wheat
after ftdlow, and after every green crop i in fliortg they
boito# firom their oata and from tfaeic basieyt tiU diay have
S-Jd
^fLongf organ. 597
Xrsd iiiftead of i-6di ^ their tatm in wheaL Thoe ne
others, who go fiuther ftill, and make a greater proportion
of wheat ; and Umit divide their fiurms into fievenths, and
take two white crops together, to make their grais finther
from the doog. If any of tl^efic be good fiurming, espe*
fienoe muft fhew. Some attempts have been made to
throw £gdlow oii( of the rotation in day, and in its rooaa
to fow haftj peaict or other greefi crops, bnt it has not aiv*
iWered the intention.
If after lint, it be meant to low wheat, the dong flioold
be laid on as ibop as the Ibt comes ofl^ and ploughed in im*
fnrdiately \ and if after clover, perhaps the beft pradice is
tolay the dong on as foon as the hay comes off the ground,
fpread it immediately, and let the iecoad crop cover it^
which it will dp in generaL Both then are ready £or the
feed fiirrow in good time. At all events, never let doQg
lie one moment in heaps, but let it be fpread inftantly, am}
-well divided. A great deal of the fncccft in fiurming de-
pends upon the proper management of dung.
If it be meant to fow wheat after tnmip. the tops may
be begun to be cut off fome time before, and given either
to cattle, or to milch-cows } after which, they fliould be
taken up in OAober, the tops and roo^s cut dofe, and then
honied, or flowed in a tempotary ihade ton the pnrpofei
and to prevent their foiling and 4>ringing, they Ihould be
tnmed over ftom time to time, and the foft and rotten ooea
picked out; by which means they will keep veij well
through the winter. And at all times, what remains in
the ground unuiied, fliould be taken up when tbey begin to
ihoot, wUdi both preierves the turnip, and prevents their
hurting the ground by their running to feed* Ifr Faterfim
hss pra£BIed this ; and one year in a field of equal foil, and
cflually ^f paredf 1^ had yams, potatoes, Knt, and turnips
i$a8 Statical jtccomt
snd of the crop of wheat following^ it eoiild fetroe be di-
ftifigiuihed ^ich had beeo die preeeding crop,
- But IS it b ft oommoa pradioe to kt tnroipft remun in
the field through die winter, and to be taken op fornfe
only as the demand for cows or cattle requires, great care
Ihoold be taken to fiiSier none of thefe to ran to feed ; for
It is an undoubted fiid, confirmed bj experience, that
tomips foflkred to run to feed exhauft the fdl more than
almoft any crop whatever, and impoveriflies more than
much high dreffiag will recover in many yean. It k pro-
iMtbly the iame with all plants bearing oleagenoos Seeds.
Flax, at any rate, u an impoverifliing crop, as it leaves no-
thing bdiind ; but if foKred to feed, it fcourges the ground
much more ; and firom this it is natiiral to fuppofe, that ia
proportton to die riohnels of the fieed, and the noiiriflineat
that is in it, the ground which produces it will be propor-
tionally exhauiled. Rye-grals, if fuflfered to feed| aduoAs
the ground $ if cut in bloflbm, it does not.
One remark here is neceflary, that when turnips, or dieir
tops, are given to milch cows, the rotten paru fliouki be
carefully leparated and thrown away ; for it is with good
^ reafon fuppofed, that it is the putrid parts which give die
•bad flavour to milk, and not the turnip itfiell However, a
•very eafy cure for this has been difcovercd lately ; to mix a
5Fery fmall quantity of a weak (blution of nitre among die
milk, while warm from the cow, and no turnip cafie wil
remain.
7asii4— Tarns have alfo been cnldvated with great sd*
vantage, particularly {upon the Mains of Cafile-Hundjr
ever flooe the year 1782, when Mr Paterfon brought a fir-
lot (a bttikel) from Calder, near Glalgow ; and now diey
are fptead all over the country. They are very eafilj
nufed 'f but the ground (hould be ploughed pretty deep m
autiuun,
Qf LengforiOii^ 529
aumma^ itfter oats or wheat, and again in the fpring ; they
maj then be planted in drills, either with dung or without
it, accordbg to the ftate of the field, or the crop wh^ch is to
follow. If thej be planted after dunged wheat, and to be
followed with barle j, dung is unneoeiTary. If after oats, as
a cleaning crop, and to be followed by wheat, it is a good
praiSioe to dung them well. This enfures a great crop of
jrams^ prevents carting upon and poaching the ground as
much as poffible \ and if the field be in proper order, niay^
be followed by wheat, without any more dung. However,
this is not recoounended as the bell preparation for wheat«
2)riiKr.— -In planting yams, the drills may be drawn from
4-s> to 2|- feet dilbnt, according to the judgment of the far-
mer. If the ground be very rich, and if the principal ob«
jed be to clean it properly for a crop of wheat to tolloWt
and, if well dunged, a very great crop may be expeded at
j^i feet diftant, and there will be ample room to work it as
perfe^y as if it was fallow. The fieros will cover the
whole completely, and with eaGe. Every extraneous plant
may be deftroyed. The fets ihould be large, about i-4th of a
large yam, dropped at about one foot or nine inches afunder.
Small fets do not anfwer fo well.
A great Crop. — ^In 1794, upon the Mains of Caftle-Hunt«
ly, a field of yams was drefled in this manner, and yielded
no bolls ^^ Scotch acre, which weighed, when cleaned of
earthy 5 ilone 5 pounds Dutch per firlot, or .23 (lone Eng-
hOxper boll, at 16 pounds each ftone, or 40,480 pounds ^r
acre. It was well dunged to the yams ; and the wheat
crop that followed looked remarkably well, Auguft 17959
but did not turn out fo well as was expefled. This, how-
ever, is no rule, as the wheat crop in general, and particu-
larly through the Carfe, was light that ;^ear. A Scotch
Voi.XIX^ aX acre
53^ Stalli/Rcal Account
^tt is to an Engliih acre nearly as 125 to xoo» If tbefoS
Ibe of an inferior quality, the drilb Aould be nearer, thtf
tile ftems may cover the ground completely.
JHo^^^firi^/.— Before the plants* appear above grMmd,
Ihey ihoold be well han^on^, which deftroys a& aninnb
that may have appeared, and opens the foJL A^ fiiQo ^
Aey arc we!! above ground, the ufind pradice b to take
away fikt earth from the drilb on eiich fide with a cdlimKn
plough. The earlier this is done t^e better, as it not onlj
deftroys thcfirlh crop of weed^, b«t h tbIktaA the earth,
and approximates to the warmth of the fua the young
fibres, beginning to (hoot ; aYid if this operatioh be tooloog
delayed, thefe tender fibres^ which, in procefs of time, are
to be loaded with sCn abundant crop, mil a riik of being cnt
dff by the plough, and then* progeny totally dellroyed. Thil
operation may be performed in half the time with the fcta-
per and double-headed plough, already d^feribed for drilled
ero{» \ f . €• the fbraper goes firflf, and cats up all the weeds,
and is immediately followed by the douUe-lieaded ploDgli»
which takes away earth and Weeds from the drills, and
ridges them m the middle fpace between. Each of tbefe
inftruments, by a particular conftni£tion, cad be made wider
or narrower, £0 as to fit itfelf to any difiance of drills, and
are eafily drawn by one horfe . They can^^ be ufed to ad-
vantage in light foils only ; for if the foil be ftrong, it is not
.poflible to get them deep enough in the ground, foasto
root out every weed *, nor can they be made to lOofieA the
earth fufficiently for the young fibres to ihoot; and if fe, a
prolific crop IS not to be ezpeAed. In fuch foils, a com-
mon plough, upon the' principle of Small's, but made light
on purpofe, is certainly beft. The next operation is hand-
hoeing, which can now eafily be done, and which anfwers a
triple purpoie, as it deftroys aU the luxuriant weeds whicfr
die
€f Longforgan. $3*
t
iSx plough could not reach, loofens the e^rth about the
iroots of the ftem, and covers with a freih mould thofe fibres,
<iow makiag <}uick progress from the parent root.
After this, efpeciallj if the field be foul, the fpaces be-
tween the drills ihould be well har^-owed with a (mall bar-*
row, of a particulaj'.conftrufition, alrea4j,defcjdbed for driU
crops* One horfe draws it along, and the man who drives-
the hoiie can eafilj guide it bj the handle, and prcfs the
whole harrow fufficiently into the earth, fo as to pick up>
every particle of couch^grafa, or anj other fibrous wt:«:d ;
and when the harrow is fo loaded as not to be able to carry
^mj moix along, the driver, with great eafe, lifts it up,
leaves the coUeAed weeds or couch-grals behind, to be car-
ried out of the field afterwards, and paies on with his har-
row. After this operation, the ground is left, until the an-
nu$d w/eeds hjLve (hpwn themfelves in fiill vegetation \ but
b^Care the Aems of the yams ase too luzortant, and then
with the common plon^, if the drills be wide, the earth is
laid up with one or two furrows, according to the difbmoe
btetyreea eAch* imt as the farmer's judgment Iballdirefi} and
afterwaid% tfae whole is finiihcd with adotd>Ie monld-board
plough paffing between each driH : But if the drilb be nar-
row,'it generally lays up the whole earth at once, without
floy aQifta&ee £rom the coounon ploqghi
When the yams ai« fiiUy ripe, which will probably hap-
pen fometime in OAober, and which is khown by the de-
cay of the fiems and the ripening apples, they are to be ta^
ken up either with the fpade or with the plough, and gathered ;
but it is a good pra£Kce to cat die fteoas firft with a fcythe, and
carry them off the field, which makes an excellent bedding
in thef dung court iox a fucceeding year ; and if the farmer
Jueps pigs nothing wiU ^ loll, as they will pick up all the
optdes,.aad every yam which may adhere to the flema. It
bas a}fo been remarked by experienced fiurmers, that if the
potatoes
532 Staii/Ncal Aec(mn$
potatoes or yams are faflfered to remain in die groond imtB
their feeds are fully ripe, they exhaaft it exceediiigly ; and
hence, even on this aqcount, a crop of potatoes, tfans mtoa-
ged, is a y«y bad preparation for wheat. They (hodd be
taken up earlier, or they (hould be followed by fbme odicr
fpecies of grain. Yams and potatoes are by no means
meliorating cr^ *,
PsMmt.
• If poffible* Tiim OiooU be tilm op ia dty wqpdw» fm
fpre frolt. The floor of the houfe, in which thej are meant to be ftowed.
ihould be laid with ilnw, and all the fides text to the walls, and diewbok
veU covered ; and if ctKfaUy nianaged in tfiii inaaiMr, Aey wffl keep wd!
till midfamiPfr or logger, and tell be firm and j«icj; dui is ancb bcnr
than uKt (pethod mbaxtytt of pitferving tfaem out of doons
Hoifes are yerj Ibnd of diem ; but one bflf peck i^'qotte enoo^ to fin
at a time in the beginning, and n^rer laore tban one ped( fliooU be gim
in the day ; with tbefe and ftraw alone, horfes nay ht rtrf well kept
tfafDugh die winter, if not vwy hard worked ; and if it fiieiUd be jedgcd
ti^eflary to giv^ them any com, it Ihpald be bniiiiBd, or given fiq oieil* vd
irery little at a time ; for as the yams ge^rally keep tbe belly open, if cocb
be given at the fame time, it will be found to pais perfeAly wMe aal v-
digeOed. Catde may be indulged with more, if agrcaabk to ifaenhtedtt^
jea with tfaem is ^jfierem; but with then, alio* dicy flwoU beghKais
final! quantities at firft, and ^en to be regulated by die efied, as dvy ac«
▼ery apt to fcour and not to feed, if givpi in fo Urge quantities, e^edaQr
at firft.
The yam does not boil as the common potBloei,*bfit tfaty frftea t Ueds;
■ad wbeo boiled ^tb diaff or btin, tbcy make a noft ezcelleia feed Ik
psilch-cQws in tlie winter, and if attended to, they will give batter eqaiV
or not much inferior, to what they give when fed on clover. They may be
alfo given raw to cows widi advantage, ndiich fome experienced frracn
prefer to boiling.
Ifborfesaretobefedwitli yami, tft^It is of die ntmoft coOGBqana
to dean them moft perfedly, as any fand or earfhy natter adbering t»
them may be of the moft dangerous confeqneoces, from tbe psidcalir
ftru^re of the horfe's bowels, id. In winter particidarly, (bdt knA
all times a good pn£lice), tbe yams' Ihoold be vMhed Ail day, wfckk
. are to be ufed the day following. Tmnpcdiately after wafluig, Aey tM
either be carried into the ftable in wbeel-barrowi, or troogbs, widi boki i^
the bottom, p) draw off the moiftnre ; or dirown into an empty fisD fo
' of Lmgf organ. 533
PoMMf. — Potatoes mxj ifi every lefpeA be treated
nearly in the fiimis manner with advantage. The ground
prepared in the fiune way ; the crop wiU certainly be im-
proved in quantity by dunging well in the drills, perhaps
not in quality. As the ftems of the potatoes are not fi) lux*
uriant, for the purpofe of improving a fiiooeeding crop, the
drills may be nearer, perhaps about 24* feet, for it is of the
vtmoft coofequenoe to the ground, to prepare' it for a
fiicceeding crop, that the whole ihould be completely ce-
ntered with the items of the potatoes, or with the green crop
of whatever kind. The potatoes ripen (boner than the
yams, and the manner of preierving them is the £une ; but
diey do not keep juicy lb long ; and while die one is moft
excellent food for man, the other is equally, perhaps more,
beneficial for cattle.
Potatoes have been long an objeA of particular attention
tp the viHagers of Ijongforgan, as well of thole who have
(man farms as of thoTe who have none ; and the pradice ia
promoted by the mailer farmers who occupy the rich
teae land in the neighbourhood, letting out (mall portions
of it wluch they mean to be wheat, at perhaps the rate of
fbur^guineas or more per acre. The &rmer ploughs and
prepares the land, and each man plants or dibbles bis mea-
fiired pertioB wfth potatoes. Sometime after this, and be-
fore the plant appears above ground, they loolen dl the
ground
tfMtpmpofr; Vy which nea» the coUduUioefiftgmwadiiBf win be t».
ten ofl^ ^riikh ii noeh more dangenmi to hoHci, ancl is much ofteaer the
oale of diicties in the bowels thu is generally thooght. But if, notwith-
ftudiof all this cave, fymptoms of cholic appear, let a drink be prepand*
confiftinf of an EngUfli <|oait of fmall beer wanned, with a table fpoonfiit
of ground pepper, and near «i Englifli pint of malt fpirit (whiikj), and
giftn imnuediatelya which ieldom faili to core. If the complaint does not
yield to this, and if it be entirely from food, from one-half to an ounce of
bodaniffl ihould be given in a warm drink; and at tnj nte, if the horie coa-
#Mei ia pain, it it alwap iafe to let blood.
^34 Stadfiical Acu^uat
|rQO|id cQfl^pktdj with a Jidck* ^n jxiftrumeai widi. a
^le of abput 4 or 5 feet lop^ aji4 two iron proa^ like a
fork: bift tunned loyirards, Tbis n)ak^ U^e pla913 cife
i^ooger ao4 |^ve$ ^hp roots room to fgreadt fo as to jield
|^;-hap6 ^ bittodred boUs fer f ere , ^yod during the wixole
]?r9£reGs of tb« plaAll coming forwards th^ J 9^ake it their
1),ttrme{» tp c^n the £roi^d periSedlj \>j band-hoeip|^ whidi
prepare9 it fof the ^ceeding crpp.
Wb^p^ bo^ca pap^pt be hadf hofh j^xns and potatoca
HOAj he kept in te^porar/ (hades ma^c onpvrpgle, flppinj
]ibe|JipfQofjofabou£^9 V^hicb m^jht )mi^ ft fmaU ez-
pencei qf jMAg $^ apd |^iaxche(l, the hottoqi.axvl fides igreD
fined with Arawijtfid 91 d/cep trppph drawn round thr^i to
kepp them dry^ .with a dopr or p^^ing at one ei^d, from
which chej may be taken at pleafure \ but always kept
^M cov'.erc^ to prevent aeoels to froft. *
* The curl is a dlfeafe to which potatoes are exceedingly fnbje^ and
•w)iidi,it is beUaFcd, is asyet bat little unteftoodL rt miHiwi fwiniiiii
wUiiiat itikinfcaiai^ f»A jil«t H «dU piqp^aate ^
Thi^ yca^.(:i79() tbcfe iee«^d j(o barip bfic^, ip m^y ^j^ffii owve of tkis
, difeafe all oy/er the country tha9 had appeared for many years ; aivd it is di-
Tenrable, diattfrom the fame feed, planted in different fields, die onebai
' tboonded with ciul, while l&e <kher was pcriedlly free: Alio, la 1^ &■<
>idd» Aine jpou h^m fcwn difcrfri, tnd rtiwi^Pt; inttid«efiNaidpQCMaei
.^wayB w(f« upon ^ drieit pait of tke field. From the ide» of in haag
infedtious, diredlions h$ve been a^^^ci^* ^^ ** ^<*<m ^ ^^ curl appeared, the
difeafed root ikould be inunediately dug up and thiownaway. Bat»t»
prove this, as foon as the curl (appeared in a field belong tug to the waAoc
of this paper, he placd! marla in the gnmnfl between the difttfied aad tlR
ibund : and there did not appear, tfarough Ae wMeleafoii^ iIm kaft ffmih
torn 6f the di&afe vtncreatbig ; tliat is, thofc wbicli were not diliBaMwan
rhe roailis were put in, remained fo to the end of the leiKbn periedly teod.
And while tfte curl was prevalent in the fields, oot one poatoe. pUaud in
the garden, bad the leaft appearance of difeaf^. Mcntioiiing titefe orcOD-
Varices to a very ingenious gentlemen, be gave it as fail opinioii, dm this
difeafe does not proceed from the feed, and that it is wAwkAiami te
0ut It is owiog prmcijMliy to wet foil, tiiny tefons, or tn error m obUo^
of Longfbrsaft. 53J
Xi>9tf«<— Tfie hiha^itantsof Lofigfbrgw havi Been femsirkw
abfy fficcei^ftil for many yeaxt in rstlfing great crops of GntL
Their praftitc in this particuhr* is well tirof th iirfitationr.
Thej wafer their Knt gfoiinds i^Mh thrir dung- water and
cow wafli ; hitt it mail be dq^e in mtiny Weathef , to prev^t
this effence of dung fif'om burning npr the crop. This mode
may be nfed to gre^ advsaitage upon gra&grounds and has
be^ tri^d ^dtm y^ar by a fitrmer in this pariAi, vpon tatie
acres of wheat, and upon as mnch Knt, and th^ apj>^iKram5fe
between the acres fb watered, and th^ xieft of the fame fieM, &
inofi r^mih-KsJbly in favour 6f the former v and Mr Paterf<Rft
is fo con^nc^d of the ^Cdvanbige of this pratfiice, tlilat he ba*
conftmd&d a: cart for this ptft-p'ofe, uptei the &m« pirineipfe
with thofe carts ufinl in watering thef ftHets of London. • ^
A large cafk (iif butt) is fis%d npon iliafts, "^vSti a fet ^
low wheels; (did Coach-whtds), for convenience of ^iRn^
In one end « hole is made of about two inches ^aitneter, tfr
Which a f^ai^ condnftor is fixed, the middle part aiboift
6 inches long, with an opening of o:^ infi^hes fixate, coming
right outwards, Mfi from which a tranfverfe arth * of tfii
fame ditnenfions, and about 3 feet ia length, is &ted cMffi
at both ends, but the fore part covered with a phte of irob;
{qSL of holes; and to guide the flow of this dbng- water, dl
plug is fittied to the hole in the head ^ the caflc, with i^
greateft end inwards \ through its body aftrongcord puflW,
knotted
fioa; tad addetd. tfun!, at any time, fie ccuti aMks Ae ctiif by ptantfnj^ ^
aMAtoodefp^orin^i'^FOMhcdgfmiad; m4 jfiiU in tbt fatta field wjbicHt
9fiinnerfiitiiif dtilri^ bad let cnit to d^ ncigbbouriog Tillagen, cvenr
man*! proportion could kave been known from the bealtH>ne(s of the plant*
•r the contrary ; what could thU be owtnj^ tdv if fiot to the vibiety of the
feed'f tiMeft obfeivaliaai iliay ba w<ath attin^f Cb. TtSal dTcirfe haa
aever been obfinrvedaiboaga the yaim. As it ti of tb? utmOft owfe^uono^
to introdnce fifcb kinds of food for beftiaJ, as may aa little ai pufllble en-
croach upon the oeceflarie»of life for man, it is hoped the length of this
'ankle wiU be ascufifd.
53^ StaiiJHcal Acc^mt
•
' knotted at each end of the plug> to keep it from (hiftingf
one end of this cord comes out at the bong of the calk, and
the other through the middle of the fore-arm ; and by the
fimpleft exertion of drawing the cord cither outwards or
uiwards, the, water within maybe made to flow, or be
flopped at pleafure. The caik may be filled with a bucket,
and a long handle, made on jiurpoie, by which means the
snoft valuable part of the dung, which is generally lofi^may
be turned to great advantage ; and by a particular cootri*
▼ance, even drilled turnip m;ay be watered with this fimple
machine. This year, 1796, when there Was no appeaxioce
of rain in the turnip feed-time, it was -put in praAioe at
Ca&le-Huntly with great advantage \ upon the iron plate
on the front of the tranfverfe arm, a piece of thin wood was
£zed, ib as to cover die holes entirely, except a fpaoe which
was left near each of the two extremities, to each of which
a flexible leather pipe, of about 18 inches long, was fiimly
nailed, and to the other end, the nofe of a common garden
watering-pan was fixed. Thefe.two pipes were acochcd
CO each other by a piece of imall flick, lb as to make them
move together, and, by a handle fixed to it, the man whtf
drove, and who walked behind, guided them upon the two
drills, one on each fide of the horfe. This operation may
be repeated once or twice, according to tha judgment of
the fiumer.
Red Chmr amd Ryt-grafi.'^n fuch parks or indoferef
which are intended foldy for pafiure, white dover and
fibbed grafs are commonly fbwn; and hay feeds, as they
are called, have alfo been fown for the fame purpole : Bot
the grais which makes a portion of the farm rotation, and
which is recommended to be fown upon a fixth part ot^
day grounds every year, b dways underftood to be red
dover and rye-graiiM From i6 to 25 poondi of red do*
qf Longforgan. 537
ver, and if for hay, about afirlot (ba(hel} of rye^grafs upon
the Scotch acre ; but if it be meant to be cut for the beftial
upon the farm, the fame quantity of clover feed, with one
or two pecks of rye-grafi feeds, is enough. This is moft
excellent food for horfes, cows, (beep, and pigs ; and if be-
gan to be cut early upon loam, it will give two good crops ;
and, upon clay grounds, it will, in general, in favourable
feafons, give three crops before the froll fets in, and pro-
bably a good after-grafs for paflure on both*. This grafs-
crop, as it is commonly called here, is meant for one year
only ; and that part which b cut for bay, generally produ-
ces very good crops, from 200 to 300 ftone, of la lb. £ng-
liih each (tone, per acre \ and fuch part of it as is not ne-
oeilary to be ufed at home finds a ready market at Dun-
dee or Perth. It is perhaps worth while to mention a re-
markable infiance of a crop of this kind upon the Mains gf
CaiUe-Huntly. In the fpring of the year 1786, red clover
aad rye-grafs were fown amongft wheat in a field of 13
Scotch acres, which produced 6000 ftone of hay ; and the
fecond cutting of the fame field was fold at L. 2:13:4
Sterling per acre,
/Cy.— The beft time to cut the hay is when the clover is
in flower, and before the rye-grafi feed is formed : For, at
that period of vegetation, the plant itfelf, which is the ob-
ject for ufe, is full of its native juices, and, of oourfe, con-
tains more real nourilhment, than afterwards, when ejc-
haufted, to maturate the feed. It is alfo well known to ex-
perience, that rye-grafi, when fufl!ered to feed, impoverifhes
the ground exceedingly ; and when cut in the fiage recom-
mended, an exceeding good fecond crop may be expeAed,
otherwife not. If the farmer means to have rye-grafs feed
of hb own, be may fet apart a portion of hb field on puf*
Vol. XIX. 3 Y pofo,
5.38 Statijlical Account
pofe, which he will find a much better plan for agricnltanl
economy, than letting the crop remain longer upon the
ground to ripen the feed.
Clover 5eed*^-lt has been attempted to grow clover for
feed in this pariih, but not with fuch ibccefs as to encou-
rage the experiment. For this purpofe, to have it as pure
as pofEble, the firft crop was early cut, that cvctj other
vegetable, which had a chance of feeding with the clover,
might be defirojed. The fecond crop then was to give
the feed : But this made it often too late in the feafon for
ripening ; and after all, the difficnltj of feparating the feed
from the hulk was exceedingly difconraging. Whether the
thrr(hing-miU would do this more eS*e£hially, remains to
be tried.
Winning Hay, — It is a common praftice in this conntry,
after their hay is cut, to let it lie for feveral days in th»
fwarth, as it is called, without touching it ; the only rea-
fon given for which is, that it will turn a ihower in that
ftate better than when teafed out, and left open upon the
field. The lead reflefHon may convince any one, that this
)S both falfe reafoning, and bad practice. The great ob-
je£t in making hay, is to dry it as quickly as poflible, with
all its native juices in it; and the moft obvious method for
this purpofe is, not to let it reft one moment after it is cut
down, but to continue turning and turning it conitantly till
(dry \ and if it (hould get a ihower during this operation,
when lyipg loofe and open, the rain will pafs through it, and
be foon dried up by a fucceeding bree^^e and fun ; and, at any
^e, there is every probable chance of coiling, L e. putting it
in cocks, or getting it flacked in fafety fooner by thefe means
than otherwife. It is well known, that rain deftroys the na-
tive juices of every plant, if expofed to it for any time ; and
ffl^en ha^ is fuSered %p lie in the fwarth, that part of it
whic|i
of Lofigforgan. 539
-which is undermoft neither fees fun nor feels air, while the
upper part b blenched with both \ and, of courfe, as it muft
remain much longer in the field before the under part la
'wio» the upper part is lofl ; and alfo, it will be much longer
czpofed to accidents, from unfavourable weather ; the prac-
tice, therefore, is bad, and the method above reconunended
in every fenCe preferable*
Tsmotby Gra/s.-^Timoihj grals has alfo been tried ia
this pariih ; but it yielded a coarfe vegetable, by no means
to be compared with the rye-grais upon the fame field, and
-while the laft remained, the Timothy was thrown out ia
the winter, and left nothing but bunches (battered through
the field \
Tares4
• Cattle, u well as erery other iTpecies of beftial upon the farm, are fed
upon clover in the houfe, befides their paAure during the greateft ptit
•f the fummer ; but great care (hould be uken not to give it to theniy
while wet with rain, or to Cuffer cattle or cows to pafture upon young clo-
ver while the morning dews remain upon the ground: For it is well
known, that not only clover, but otlier fucculent vegeubles, when ate by
cattle in that ftate, are apt to produce fuch a fudden, and violent fermenta-
tion in the ftomach, as to end in fatal confequenccs, if not timeonfly pre-
vented*
Thii difeafeis evidently produced by an extraordinary and fudden diileiu
£on of the ftonucb, from an immenfe quantity of fixed air let loofe by the
fermentation of thofe fucculent vegeubles; and as, from the nature and
ftridure of thii vifcus, the more it is extended, the lefs capable it i!i to dif*
charge any of its contents, of courfe, if not fpeedily relieved, the
difeafe increafes, until a rupture of the ftomacb takes place, and death
cnfuet.
If foon obferved, by an apparent fweUing and elevation on the aesr fids*
not far from the fpine, gentle exercifc, by walking the anioul about, very
frequently, tScAs the cure ; probably by alfiiling the pertflaltic motion of
the guts, and promoting a difcharge of wind and foeces per ano, which ia
the iirft favourable fymptom of the difeafe going off. To aid this, ainy
remedies have been thought of and propofed ; and amongft others, a pound
of fwect butter, melted and mixed with OU Aniii or 01. Junipiris, from en»
to
54^^ Stattjlical Accwuni
7af «i.— -Upon the Imrge fiuins, tares hsve htely been m*
troduced and fown at different periods, fo as to come in faf
feeding
to two oancci, poared down the throat, has beeinifed with f^odk. It hu
•Ifo been recommended, to fill an empty egg4hcU with tar, and to pot h
down the throat into the ftomach with the hand. This alfo has been attend,
cd with fucceia ; and at Caftle-Huntly above a doaen of catde
^rered upon the very firH eicperinicnt, after feeing diis remedy i
in the newfpapen. To give this die better dumce of faccefs, the egg maft
be kept whole in the hand, and piefied as far down as pofliblc, while the
animal's head ik kept up by drofe who afGft at the operation, and who asay
frcilitate t^e intiodu^on of the egg into' the' ftocdacfa, by ftroaks^ the
outfidb of die difOat downwards, after die hand wfakh istAodnced die egg
li repored }-^nd it is remarkable, that as foon as the animal has perfaoni
deglutition, a quantity of foul ill fmelling air comes up, and ▼cry fooa after
the difeafe begins to abate and to go off. It has alfo been propofed to
force a round flexible ftick into the ftomach, from the idea, that if its nonth,
(f . e, the mouth of the ftomach), can be opened by any meani, the cue
will be eSe^ed ; which is a very reafonable cooje^re.
'But Dr Moirao at Edmbnrgh, the cekbrated Profeflbr of Aawtomy in
thatUni^erf ty, has improved upon tkb. He fcconmeads afloaible tabe^ Bide
of fptral wire, and covered with leather ; to one end of vi^iich ia fixed a hah
knob Ml of holes, which is meant to be introduced into the ftonaarh, and as
the tube is flexible, it fits itfelf to the throat, and being hollow, a ftrong wire,
with a probe pouit, can be introduced at the opening of the other endr
by which it can be kept as clear and pervious as poffible. This is cxticae*
ly neceffivy ; for without fome fuch means, the holes in the brafs nab« and
perhaps the tube itfelf, might be filled by the vifcous mucibginoiis nat-
ter in the ftomach, and the inteutioo totally defeated. However, at aey
rate, the introdiidlion of thtr inftrument is a great point gained ; and the
firft explofion of detached air through the tuW, vnll moft probably gitc
relief, while the wire keeps the pafiage open^-to render die xnnedy eorapkte
and more cehain. Mr Walker in a book, pidiliflied in 1794^ under the
title of Rowlings Cow Do^or, has given a full account of this elaftic tnbe,f
copied frq^ the Caledonian Mercury, into which it was inferted in March
1791, with Dr MoNxo*s permiflion; and having got one of thefe tubes far
black catde from Mr Still, cutler in Edinburgh, who makes them for eightftul-
Ungs a-piecc, he got fome fvcfa made on a fmaUer fcale for fiieep, and tells us^
p. 123. " that they havobeen found of infinite fervice m iaving the Urea
** of ftieep tm^fiugbt or hrake^fiugbi ;'* by. whidk is uodcfftood, the fwd-
Mug of the ftomach, from the fenaentatkw of the food.
Dr
of Longforgan. 541
feeding beftial» both hor&a and cattle, after the firft crop of
clover, and to continue in fuccci&on ontil the fecond crop
be
]>r MoNxo has, fince that time, contrived an ixiftroinent of iron, made
likewife by Mr Still, for keeping open the lOouth of the animal ; by the
ufe of which, it will be found much eafier to pais the tube into the fio-
macb ; which will give a better chance of fucceb, than any thing hitherto
necommended, and« in moft cafeS, naay render ftbbing unneceffiuy.
The fuccefji of all tbofe remedies, however, depend upon their being *»'
troduced into the ftoroach, which is in many cafes difficult, and in fome, if
the difeafe be gone too far before it is obferved, it becomes impoilible :
There dien remains no other hopes of relief, but by making an opening in
the ilomach from without. This operation is here very common,
and is frequently performed without much anatomical (kill in the ope-
rator, and who in general is not very nice in the choice of his inftrument,
taldng the firft knife he can lay his hand upon ; but what is moft lecom*
mended, is a knifik of about four or five inches long, and about one inch
bfottd, Whh a (harp point and fixed in a handle. He then marks the place
for the Operation, by meaHiring with his finger and thumb extended*
a fpan from the prominent point of the hip-bone forwards, and a little
downwatds, fo as to mett another fpan meafured from the fpine or back-
bone outwards, and at the point where thei^ meet, with one bold ftroke of
bis inftrument, he penetrates the ftomach ; the nnprifoned air immediate-
ly mfties out, and the animal is relieved.
This, although a coarfe operation, is certainly fo far eflfedlual, as it favcs
the animal's Hfe : but if a milch cow, no more milk can be expe^ed from
ber tliat fcafon ; and it is fumetimes very long before any defcription of cat-
tle recover the cfiedls, either of the difeafe or the operation, or perhaps of
both. Sometimes it is necefiary to keep the wound open for fome time, be-
fore all the air be let out ; and fometimes it fuppurates, and becomes very
troubleCbme to heal. It would feem to be a very great improvement on thia
operation, were a trocar ufed inftead of the knife, and made on purpofe lar-
ger than common, and which every man who has cattle (hoiild be always pro.
vtded with The operatfon then might eafily be performed, and with great
certainty. The trocar itfclf might be withdnwn immediately after the ope-
ration, while the tube remained to give a free paflage to all the air in tlie
ftomach ; and tlie.wound, in ail probability, would give no trouble, but Leal
dheaiy.
Cattle are fubjedi to ether difeafes *, but they are little underftood in this
part of the country. A cow 9 years old was taken ill July lalt The fitit
fymptom of difeafe was her loathing her food ; aai on exaxaiaation it waa
ieuoi.
54^ StatiJHcal Account
be fit to cut. Varimis kbds of tares have been tried* Tiz«
the flat vetch ; the large and iimall round tare ; the kft
kind has hitherto been found the beft, both for fodder and
feed. Thej are a moft ezcelknt food, and much liked
both by cattle and horfes*
Winter T^iir/i.— -Mr Mjlne of Mjlnefield b the only one
in this parifli who has tried winter tares. They are fbwn
about Oftober, and may be cut about May. He thinks
them
found, that flie had been coftive for fomctime, had a dnllnefi and hcaTme&
in her eyes, and was very much hide-bound. Some medicines were given
for her coftivenefs, which anfwered very well; but her difeaic increa&^»
a celebrated cow-doAor, from a neighbouring pariih, by trade a UMtforr, was
fent for. After eiamination, he declared her to be elveihot; and aithoogh be
pretended to point out the very holes under the ikin through which theclvan
arrow had pal&d, yet Ihe was not fo bad as many he had Mecn, and tl|pie<
fore he prefcribed and adrotniftered, but without effed : For fooo after
a very large fwelling was difcovered between the forelegs, upon the briflcec*
which feltfoft and pulpy. The cow went off her food entirely, her pulfe
quick, breathing Diort, and in a few days fhe died. On dividing the faftf-
ket, it was found full of a glary» jelatinous fubftance, and very mucji enlar-
ged : and upon opening the thorax, the pericardium appeared extended t»
an immenCe fiae, fo as to occupy the whole left divilion entirely. On
pundiuring it a yellowilh fhiid ifltied out, which could not have meaiuied
lefs than 6 or 8 Scotch pints (3 or 4 Englilh gallons), fo that the cow died
of a hydrops pericardii.
On examining the cow-doAor, he faid he had often feen elvefhot cows^
fome of which he had cured. That be had feen fome drop down dead up-
on the fpot : That he had frequently felt the tmpreffion made by the ehin
arrow under the (kin ; for they can wound even mortally without any ca-
temal appearance : That othen he had feen widi their whole body as A>ft
as wool, (his own expreffioo) after death: That he had frequently picked
up thofe arroDi'S, which were fmooth triangalar fmall pointed (tones or
pebbles, like flints ; and it was his belief, that thofe who do tibe mirduef
afe our goodly neighbours.
From this it will appear, that the belief in the exiflence of iaiiies is not yet
quite eztinguifhed in this country ; but they have been very onjuftly blamed
for killing cattle, as a ftroke of lightning is a nrnch more natural way of ac-
counting for the mifchief, which however was beyond the fpbeie of their
knowledge when ihis notion was very prevalent \ and die tiiaoguUr peb>
blet are as innocent as our goodly neighboun.
of Longforgan. 543
them the befi food he ever tried for working faorfes. The
flieep are fo very fond of them, that thej maj be fiud to
devour them ; and for a week after tbej were taken off
from them, thej did not eat the mod fucculent grafs with
any relifli : they even preferred them to red clover, which,
of all others, ufed to be reckoned their moft favourite
food.
Lime, — ^Lime is now univerfally ufed as a ^lanure in this
parifh ; and, after repeated trials, many good fiirmers feem
difpofed to prefer the Charleftown, becaufe they think it
contains fand, which makes it fitter for opening the texture
of clay than the Engliih from Sunderland, efpecially the
wbiteft kind, which they think contains chalk*. The quan-
tity is, in general, 30 bolls South Sunderland lime, barley
meafure, and 45 or 50 bolls Charleftown, wheat meafure,
per acre, which is laid upon fallow after the dung is plough-
ed in, and then harrowed, to. divide and mix it -, after which
a very fliallow feed -furrow prepares it for fowiog. This
may laft for two rotations -, that is, twelve years or more,
according to circumftances ; but fome are of opinion, that
it would be a good prance to give every fallow on clay
about 10 pr 12 bolls of lime, harrowed in, in the fame man-
ner. Upon thi3 pradice experience muft decide.
In ufing lime as a manure, many good farmers are of opi-
nion that it ought not to be too much drexiched with water,
but laid on as hot as poflible, efpecially in clay, and hs(r-
rowed in immediately, to mix it with the foil : By which
means, the more complete flacking of the lime would be
left to the fucceeding rains, and it would then be more inti-
mately mixed with the foil; and the clay, particalarly,
would
« The grettdl fault of the Charleibun lime, is the tail qptotitiei of
Yolks (unburned fiones) it contains. The palion or blue liDM, ii much
more in reqocik here than any other ; cypeocc froa a a. 44. to at. 6d* /cr
bolt, and about jo bolls /rr acxe.
544 Stati/ikal Account
wotfld be mncb better dUTolved by the operation. £tcs
. feme farmers have propofed to powder the burning lime-
fliellf, inftead of flacking them, to anfwer this purpoCe more
cffeduallj.
All black loam, (and, or an j kind of earthy fubftascc
almoA, proves to be yer j good manore for clay ; from its
leiTening its tenacity upon being mixed with it, and by
that means brings a greater quantity of its prolific parts
into adion ; and clay carried to poor foil, or to mofly
grounds, proyes a v^ry ufeful manure.
MarL — ^Marl has alfo been tried on day, but arithoot ad*
vantage. It anfwers well upon lighter lands, as far as 50
bolls (a cube of two feet each) per acre ; and in much kfi
quantity, it makes an excellent top^reiBng fer gra&.
Com/o^/.— Compofb are not much in ufe in this pariA.
But dunghills have been made up of different materials,
fuch as, eanh, rubbifb from old boufes, dang from the
flraw-yant, and, in fome few inftancesy lime, nibbifli, or
marl ; but the praAfce is pot general, and as yet it b ooc
confirmed by experience.
Hung^ Hints to Lartd/ords.^^'Dung never fliould be per.
jnitted to go off the farm. The ftraw now. fincc threihing-
mills came into general uTe, is fit for fodder or dnag only.
The incoming tenant fhould have leave to fow grals feeds
in ]i-6th of the farm, without any claim or demand by the
cutgoing tenant. If tlie Landlord gives him leave to fell
his lafl crop upon its foot, f. e. fianding com and fodder, he
Ihould be obliged to fell it by public roup (audion), that the
incoming tenant, or any one on the barony, may have an op-
tion of buying it if they pleafe . If he chafes to threfh it out*
it {hould be done on the farm, and the fodder either fold by
public roup, or to the incoming tenant by appraifbmcixt.
It would be an excellent regulatioui if every new tenant
were
^Longforgan. 545
were enabled to enter xrfth a proportion of fallow on claj^ •
as well as grals ; and with the dung in the flraw* jard» in
the fame waj as if the outgoing tenant were to continue.
This Mr Paterfon has been enabled to do^ upon two farms^
by buying the dung, and a proportion of fallow, from the
creditors of an outgmng bankrupt-tenant^, and giving
them to his faccefibrs, and taking them bound in their
tacks (leafes) to leave the dung and the fallow on the fame
terms at. the expiry of their leaie*
Inchfuris. — In the upper part of this pMfli, many of the
famu are incloCed and fubdivided mth hedges and ftone
dikes, (fences); and indeed there are fome few hedges
round the extremities of the farms in the low Carfe ; but»
in general, every other fence but the ditch is reprobated
by Carfe farmers. They iky, that the hedges not only
harbour numberlefi fmall birds, which defiroy a great deal
of com \ but they prevent the wind from drying their clay
ground in fpring, and winning their corns in autumn,
which, they think of much more confequence than any fhti*
ter their proteftion can afford againft (baking winds.
Chafe imd Butter. ^^V^ry tolerable cheefe is made ia
this pariih, and a confiderable quantity of excellent butter,
which are difpofed of to private families, efpecially the
butter, which is in great re^ueft, or fent to the Dundee
market* It has been a general opinion, that very good
butter can alone be made from the milk of cows fed upon
very old paftnre ; but the greater part of the butter made
in this parifh, which is acknowledged to be excelleot, is
made from the milk of cows fed upon cloverp of one or two
years at moil : For here the clover is (own with the barley ;
Vol. XIX. 3Z the
P H. B. This tenant 'was a visual- merchant.
54(^ Stati/Heal Aeccmu
the following jesir it gives a crop dF haj, or )s eol finr tin
borfes or cows, and it afterwards pkmghed op for die crop
of oats or wheat to fi>Uow ; (b that die iarmefa here have
PQ old grais.
Bees. — ^Bees. thrive well in thb pariih, and predaae et*
* cellent honey ; and in the gardens at CaftlevHnndy, wham
there are a variety of fragrant Iflowen, pardcularly gmt
quantities of minionette, fown on porpofe, honey Ins been
got little inferior to Minorqa, both in colour and flavour.
Hops.r^lx is very probable heps nsight thrive here, as, ia
many places, the foil is ahon dantly rlph £ar that porpofe ;
hoxjbiber is wanting,
Setd-timer'^SetA^tDt for wheat, September, ia the clay ;
Odober, and even November, on the brae laadi apoerd-
ing to the feafoo, which tbejr are moft anjooos to catdi,
efpecially in olay, while the ground is dry, otherwiiie
they run a rifle of lofing it altogether x But in the loam or
brae land, they do not wiQi to fow before the middle of
Oftober; and good &rmers are not anxious that fiich
grounds fhould be too dry, but rather prefer moifaire,
ihould the harrowa even trail, while they are fowing; as
they think it a great mean of preventing annual weeds from
mfhing up amongft the crop. Bioms are frcquendy (own
|n the clay upon the wheat-fiubhle in broad caft,sandploQgh«
ed in about the end of February, or beginning of March, that
. is, as foon as the plough can touch i;he ground; and about a
fortnight, or a longer time afterwards, fome farmers few
hafty peafe upon the fame furrow, and harrow them in,
after which very good crops have been gotten } aUb^ drill-
ing beans may be ufed to great advantage upon clay, but
the ground ihpu)4 be prepared b^ a winter furrow, and in
the
oflMtgfi>rgan. 547
the fpfiaf by another farraw, as early as tbt 'feabii will per«
ittiti immadiatelj afttr which it is faarrowcdy then ploagK*
ed aorofr tbe ridgta, and the beans fowa iir every third fat«
tow * : After fowing, barrow the field well, aod then let it
lie until the beans be near appearing through the ground }
tlMn harrow it again to deftroy the annuals 9 and after the
beans* afipeardifttnftlyi hand4ioe them, harrow between
Ae irilll with a narrow barrow, and proceed aa in dreffing
other dirillad erQps. Upon black Iftod, beams are fown in ge«
flierally in bngitedinal drills, ih the month of March \ fenfi^
Mmt€b and Afrih eefi, Mar^ and Aprils barley, from
Apf>il to Jane, aecording to tlie fpecies of the grain \ the
lincnloiluM flMuld be fowa very early* Grsis fireds, which
confift of rye-grais and red clover, are generally fown with
the barley, becaofe the ground is better prepared \ but they
aafwer fiiUy as well with oats f , or even among wheat,
when foWn eariy in the Tpfing ; the ground being firfi open-^
ed with a lt|^ harrow, and then rolled in ; which operation
is, ttt geneml, of great advantage to the wheat,* as it opens
the feH, and makes the yoong plants /dri or tillar better.
The prioelpal reafon of fewing the grafs Sreds amongft
barley, is probably on actonnt of the rotation of fixes. How
far this pra£Hee ought to be adhered to, or if any variation
may be introduced with fucce&, the experience of farmers
mud judge. But, in general, the barley in clay is but an
indifcrent crop, and therefore fome Tarmers are trying
early oata in their room, or even common oats, which, in
general, gtv6s the heft crop*
l^icHKng
^ Thh is \rf much dft bdt mediod upon clay, as evtrf drill, nay, evety
Autvw, fcrvvsas a dnun, and kteps die ground perftaiy dty; as all the
iMi wm aU inio Om fiinem bstwNa die iid|M^ wfaudi muft be lu^rt opttt
fur that pttipele.
t Perinpsdiecropofgtaisttniorectitsin^astthasshctterchapctfroai
thefpring rains.
548 Siatiftkal AccmM
Pickling Seed WbeaU^AH the wheat for feed uadecj^o^
a preparattcniy which here they cdl {nokliog, u e. thej
fprinUe it with ftaleudnef aad thea riddle powdered qsick*
Ume upon tt* taming it all Ihe time with ihovelt* uattt the
grain be comidetdijr covered with a white em^. It b Ifaea
earried pot to the fiekl» and fowa immediately. •Thia has
been an ellabbihed praftice for many yeaia> and it it £ol'
lowed* from experieaoe of .its utiti^. It is very pfohaUe
that it fervea to qiuekcB vegetation, a^ to pcev^ft vemin
from delhoying the feed. It la alfo a good pvafiiee to
Iwim the feed in a ftrong brifke. Or pickle, of fea iakt aiade
iftrong enough to bear an egg, to take off all the lighi gain,
which fwiois. on the furfaoe^ aad then* lioie the reft toi
iced.
Smut in TViiat,^^The operation of pickling baa been tap^
pofed an effedual remedy againft finut (blake) in wheat}
hut it certainly is not fo» Whatever may be the canle of
this dileafe is difficult to by } but it is by no means peca»
liar to wheat ; it is very remarkable in barley, aad alfo in
oats ; but amiongft them it ^te difappears ia the threfliiog,
and therefore is not noticed*^ Sound ears have beea fDund^
to all appearance from the fame root, and even fome faiod
grains of wheat upon the fame ear with imut. Some have
thought it was an infeft, and that it was in&Aious, and if
fown with other ieed would produce finutty com: lUs is
not true, for' the experiment has been fairly tried herct 0^
fmutty and found wheat mixed, and even fbme of theli&Bt
bruifed, and the crop did not differ in any reipeft from the
reft of the field. It may be in fome refpeds from the Ces-
fon, and in fome from the feed; perhaps from fome impcF-
fediouxin the maturation of particular grains, totally im-
perceptible to us, the caufes of which we are ignorant 0^ sad
which may never be in the power of man to remedy. Tbe
beft
'^ longforgafU 54^
\ preventiooi perhaps, in our povvef is found feed ; to e^M
whadi, fwimmiDg in brine feema to be an excdlese
^r%etliOd ; but, as it is alio probaUe that the pongenc j of
Cli4e ftak nriae, inef ufied wkh Kme, may be ft protection to
^fti« fted from Tarioiis infeds, while it promotes vegetatiotiy
^ere both operations combined, it might be of advantage.
.A^fter the whe^t is fwimmed, and the tbiind heavj part
sQone reftirved for feed, let it be* dried by frequent tnmin^
in ihe bsni-floor) then, when dry, fprinkle it with the
ftnle ttrine and liaie, as »lrefldy mentioned. It is very pro^
l>able the good confequences will f^pay the farmer for dl
fcis labour.
On fidlow well prepared, 6 pecks to half a boll of wheat
xnay be fown upon the Scotch acre, according to the foil
«ind feafon, of which the farmer muft judge. If after clo-
^cr, peafe, or beans, or later in the feafon^ more feed will
l>e neoeflary.
Harvf^g^-'-^Thit (hearers are generally hired fofr the
ivhole taarveft, and their wages have, iince^78o, Taried
from 20 s. to the men, to 30 s. and upwards ; and to the
ivoaaen, from 14 s. to 10 s. ; and if by the day, from xo d«
•o ^c d. or more, to the men ; and from 6d. tois. ta the
^^osnen.
y'iauaU.'^Ml the fliiearers get bread and beer in the fields
i. r. a cboppin (of about an EngUik quart) of beer, and th»
bread of x.i4th of a peck of oatmeal for breakfaft $ and for
dinner! 3 mutcbkins (pints) of beer, and i-X4th of a peck
of meal in bread} and with fome, it is alfo a pradice ta
get half a lippie of oatmeal every night, 1. e. i-8th of a
peck, while the harveft lafts, for their fupper, which they
ij either ufe, or take home to their fiunittes. Harveft
' ^ nfuallv
95* Statiltfad AtemA
lObally Mi from x6 1^ M dajt, nleft tlie
QMItMNllj bad. SOQM fiUtMMV fal t
tl tMDM gO( p«ffOM to ^BttWaft to COt i
»coiatii film ^ acfCf fr«m5«*tD(t«i hiK dMfeafefev,
and it MMWt la gencfali gi^wo «fb ftabtUy fnm mm/L of
.The ezpeacc^of hivTtfi niiift varjr accofdii^ to the pfke
of viAm), and tke flito of the Mather. If the oaftroral ise
imxt it will ooft more, aod oicv oar^bi aad if tho wcaifacr
be bad* aad dmw the barveft cot ^ a modi kogar peried
Ihaii iifoal, it wiU ceA mote*
In 1780, upon a &rm in this parifli, the harveft caA 59.
jNracco*
1017811 - ja. Sd«/eraGr&
X78a, «- ^ tfa«
1783* • • 78. ltd.
1784, - - 7s. 8d.
1785 and 1786, - 79.
Aodfioce that time it has been as high as 9a. aod xe«./«r
tae, tncludiag the whole expenoe of bringing dbe \
\ the bara-jard.
Mtiidm Ftafi.'^t was, till verj httly, the
give what was called a Maiden Feaft, upon the finiOung of
the harveft; and to prepare for which, the kft-handfiil of
com reaped in the field was called the Matden. tins ^m
generallj contrived to fall into the hands of one of thf
fineft girls in the field ; was dce&d op hi ribbands, aad
brought home in- triumph, widi the mnSc of Bddles or bag-
pipes. A good dinner was given to the -whole band, aad
the evening' fpeot in joviskj aad dancing, whtte the for-
tunate li^ who took the maiden was the Qneen of the
&aft ; after which, thk handfol of corn wm drefled cat,
ganerally in the form ofa €ro&, and hung np, with die
date
(kne of-the 3ne«r» in ioiiie coofpiMtoM part of thft hmh,*
Tbis cnftom is now ta^Jrcly done awaj \ and ia ks reoiiit
to cadi dmrer ia given 6d. andgloaf ofiin^ Ho^avcv
fome fimnarit wheo aU tbtir ooias ate brottghl in, giva
their iibrvaiita % dinaer> and a jovial eveoisg, bj wj^. o£
Harveft^hoaM.
• .-»
E9^fe4C0 ^7i^/i^ia^.*-«Thraflii«g eat tba ooros uiad to
be a vary exp^vc articlc» cfpamUy wbcii doi|t^ by la*
boorart po day^vagte ( but the geoetai pra&ice wat-a asth .
pan of the grain. Upon a farm in thia parilb, of 180 acrcs»
it ooftt on an araiage of 6 yearst about L. 3a, varj aoarlj
a 9. 6 d. fir acre. This operatioi^ is now perfiMnad en«
lirelj by the tbrefliiag-mill.
itoA£r.— Previous to the year J7j)o, all the roads through
die Cai'fe of Gowrie were exceedingly bad ; and the whole
fiatnte labour of this parifh was found infufficient to uphold
the four miles of poft road which pafliis through it. That
year an a£fc of Parliament was obtained to make certain
roads in the county of Perth tumpikci and amongft others
the road through th« Carfe from Perth to Dundee, and its
three-brancheS) leading to the harboufs of PolgaVie, Errol,
and Incfayra ; which, by the liberal fubfcription and un-
wearied attention of the proprietors, are now made equal
to the befi road^ in the kiogdoca, bat at the espcnce of
L. 13*000 to the Carfe proprietors, who are troftees. Since
that time the truftees have made it a rule to apply the
ftatute labour, through the whole Carfe, lolely to the bye-
roads, or other roads of communication. In the pariih of
Longforgan, not only this rule^ has been obferved, but the
heritors have contributed largely for the fame purpofe, to
the amount of feveral hundred pounds i by which means
f<;vcral of thcie roa^Sy already made are very little inferior
to
55^: StM^kal 4ceomt
todbe tunipike ; and as the whok of whftt bas been projce-
taA is naw.currTi&g into execution, the- Gommimicatioa froia
Ibe diferent puts of this parifl^ and indeed throofh the
whok Cadet with the neighbouring market towns and har-
hNm, w^l be fe eafy to the firmer, as to account in a great
meafure for the riie of the value of land in this put of the
coontr J. Thu Ihould (erye as an encouragement to coun.
trj gentlemen to exert themfelves in making good roads,
ns the gieattft improvement, and beft laid ouc mc^ej the j
can expend upon their efiates ; as it enables' the ftrmer to
perfiyrm all his labour at much leis expence, and of couris
to paj a better rent widiout diminilhing his profits *. One
vemark here b neceffary, that in this pariih, and indeed in
general through the Carfe, care has been taken to applj the
fiafutc labour of each farmer, as much as poUible, to thofe
roads alone moll u&ful to him*
Gemtraf
# It IS t well known USl that previous to the yetr 1790, a great pan of
Jthc interior of the Carfe ofGowrje waS pcrfcAly inacceffible to ctrts for
almoft half the year ; fo that they were obliged to deliver their prodncc «•
horfeback ; and the very idea of bringing lime or dung from any difisnce
arts fcaite to be entertained, except under the moft favoorable circnniao-
ccs» Now. there is not a Hxm. in the Carfe bot what is acceffible is every
points and at all times, to caru loaded with 13 or 14 boils of wheat, or it
bolls of barley, or 4) bolls of lime (halls, or 16 cabic feet of dang, at leaft,
and at a moft trifling czpence ; for within the coaoty, the turnpike toll a
bat ^ d. for which a cart with two horfes can deliver produce, or bring
)ime. &c. from tome one part or other, to almoft any place in the Carfe, t»
the extent of three loads in fummer, of the above amount, and two in winter,
per day : For roada of communication they pay nothing. Is \i po£b!c
then to point out the advanuge of good roads to farmen in ftronger tem» }
and. Is there any one man of any defcription, who feels thatjadvantage more .'
^ot one. ^or is there an'OWner of any one article conveyed iqiuo the.'f
{roads, fo amply rcimburfed as tlie Carfe farmer is, for the tolls be pays upoa
his lime and dting : Indeed very little dung is brought from any diftaace to
C%i^% f^r<&s ; thc^ in general are ferved within themfclvcs,
L.6 lo
o
1 7
o
7 16
o
9 lo
o
xo o
0
lo 7
0
xo i6
a
Oitieral Pr^dmcf^ tmtt EwpeHce of jEa/^oar.-^Th6 cfop«
ndfed in this pariOi are g6od iti general \ Upbli the cky
groimd, on an average from 7 to 6 bolls per acre ; and on
the loam, different accordiilg to thie quatitj of the foil«
and the fkiQ of the Cstrmet : ' But the e^pence is verj great|
being no le6 than L. 3,t>f L. 3, ^si per acr^. This may
in a great meafore be owing to the very high wages of fer-
vantSy both male and female^ >vhich has-incteafed of hte td
on extraordinary degree : F^rm ftrvants wages were in' 1 7801
m1xH)t L« 5.
In 1781, * • •
1783. -
X789,
X790,
1791.
1791,
i793t - -
x?959 ^^ fome, as far as L« XI, or 1% gaiat^s per onnMm^
and women from L. 3 to Li 4 ; many of the women, how-
ever, get pan of their wages in lint, cloth, i^c, : So that
vrithin thefe 15 years, wages have been doubled and more.
The farm fervants indeed are now better clothed, and in
eveiy refped make a much better appearance : It is much
to be widied, that their good behaviour and induftry would
keep pace with their rncouragmenti which is not always the
cafe.
Labourers fTa^w.— Labourers wages fo late as 17771
were at 7 d in winter. 8 d. 9 d in fummer ; now they are
from I s. to I s« 6d. : ' Wrights were then i s. \ now i s. 8d.
Mafons were then i s. ad. now 2 s. : Taylors 6d* and their
meat formerly ; now i s.
Ancient State of the Air/r.-— There is a tradittoa nmver*
fally prevalent through this part of the country, that for*
merlj the river Tay oocupisd a very different bed from what it
Vol. XIX, 4 A does
554 Stati/lkal ABc&mi
iocs at prefient. That it catered the Cade tygflwawi of
Inch jra, and fliaped its conxfe along thotb grounds which
•fe ftill hollow, and remarkably low between the efiites of
Glencarfe and Pitfour ; that it approached the hills at Glen-
doicky and continued fkirting them eaftward by Pitroddj,
I1awcraig» Craigdilly, Battendean, Baledgamo, and Roffie.
ThatattheSnabsof Drimmie«it£ent oOFa portion of its wa>
ten, which entered this parifli between the hiUs of Forgan
aid Dron, direfiing its coorfe eaftward through that vale,
and after receiving ieveral bums or rivulets in its pafige,
emptied it&lf into its parent river at lovergowrie, or the
mouth of the Gowrie.
That the river Earn continued its ieparate ooorlc till it
was joined by the Taj below Enrol ; That the whok low
grounds of the Carfe of Gowrie were then covered with
water, out of which arofe a number of iflands or inches,
which retain iheir names to this day, fuch as, Inchyra, or
Ittchflieriff, Inchcoontns, Inchmichael, Megginch, Inch*
martin, and Inchture : That the rock upon which Caflk-
finntly now (lands was then wa(hed with water ; and that
the ftones of which the original Ibrtalice was built were
brought by boats from Kingoody,
There is no written teftimony known to the author of
.this paper which confirms this tradition ; but HeAor Boe*
theus, when mentioning the lands given to the Hays, aa-
ceftors of the prefent Earl of Kinnoul, for their gallant be^
haviour at the battle of Luncarty, which waa fought (boe
time in the tenth century, lays, that they got a falcon's
flight : * She flew between Inchyra and Roflle, a town foar
' miles weft of Dundee, and fo they gat all the lands be*
< tween Errol and the Tay/ If this be correfl, it favoars
the conjedure, that the Tay then came fomewhere near
Roflie, and that the greateft part of the Carfe was included
in the royal gift. However, there are a number of other
ciicumflaoctf
9f Longfbrgatu 555
ctrcBinftftiices which woald feem to give ccmntenance t*
the tradition. The fuppofed original bed of the river, not-
withflandbg the difiance of time when this change if laid
to have happened, and the improvements of thefe 50 jears
back, is fiill low, morafly, and fwampy, almoft throogh its
whole courfe. In man j places, it iis afiually covered with
water ftill; and it abounds with the (ame fpecies of marfli*
reed, which grows upon the verge of the river Tay, about
Errol, Monorgan, Seafide, &c. Upon feveral places near
the hills are ibnnd fand banks and gravel, particularly at
Glencarfe, Rait, Caftie-Huntly, in the vale between For-
gan and Dron, &c. ; and the upper fiirface of the low Carle
ground is a perfeft clay, very much of the fame nature
with that depofited in the bed of the prefent river, which
is expofed to view by the reflux of the tide } while thoie
rifing grounds, ftill called Inches, confift of a rich black
loam, mixed with gravel, the under ftratum of which is till
and red ftone rock« There is a bluflf point in the eaft part
of this pariih, in the courfe of that branch, which is fuppo*
lied to have been the Gowrie, called Denmark to this day,
and where the country people fay the Danes landed, but
which at prefent is more than a mile from the river, and
no water near it, but a fmall rapid rivulet. Even Forgan
is fuppofed to owe its name to the 4i^iding of the river,
from the Gaelic pronunciation of the word ; and it is faid,
that there are charters, one for Bambrieh in Fife, now upon
the fouth bank of the Tay, but which formerly was faid to
be bounded by the Earn or Ironfide *, and another, either
for Flawcratg or Craigdilly, where, it is faid, i^n rings had
been found fixed in the rocks^ for fSidtening (hips, and that in
the charter there is the rematkable exprellion— I/^&t olim
naves ligabantur.
Whether there be any truth in thefe, or if there be, at
frhat period this great ^ange upon the Catfe happened, v^
55$ Stati/liMl 4c€0Uttt
not eafy to faj ; although it is faid (opon what aotlMxity is
not known to the author of this paper) to have taken place
Ibme time in the twelfth centur;, or earlier^ as Came are in-
clined to fuppofe. But it is remarkable, that icveral of
thofe iflands have Chriftian names, while the places upoa
the rifing grounds andjiills, fuppo&d then to have bounded
tlM river; are evidently more ancient, and probaUj on^
nal|Gaelic ; the names of many of them being deicriptive of
their iituation in that language. And if there are diarteis
which contain any fuch exprefEons as thole mentioned, the
period mud have been very remotei and might aifixiallj
liave happened in the twelfth century, or earlier.
Monorgan might have been at that time a much larger
eftate, which indeed is extremely probable ; for even in the
memory of men now living, many acres of that eftate have
been carried away by the river. Great encroachments
have alfo been made upon other eftates in the Carfe from
the fame caufe. Hence it is alfo very probable, that
the fpacious I^ay between Errol and Kingoody has acquired
its prefent extent and fhape, by the united exertiooa of the
Tay and Earn, oppofed to the flood-tide from the (ca.
The various fubifarata in this diftrift might likewife be a
fubje£l of curious invefiigation* By an examination lately
taken at the braes of Monorgan and Polgavie, where the
river Tay has made its greateft encroachments, and where
the banks are firom 19 to ao feet perpendicular height, tbe
following ftrau can be difliodly traced : ift^ A browniib
flay, mixed with fand and vegetable earth, about J^^ ^tti
deep, forming the prefent prolific upper furface. ^d^ About ^
four feet deep of a browniOi free day, with a proportion cf |
{i[ind, but no vegetable matter. The cnly di&rence be-
tween thefe two is probably owing to cultivation, manure,
^un and air. ^d^ About 2 feet 3 inches of a poor jrellowiiti
<^y, viihoQt £uid) but mixed viitb cockle, moick, and
cih^r
"\
rf Longforgah. 557
Oiiber marine AeOs, but no vegetable fobftadces. 41^, A
ftroQg blue clay, ^i £eet deep, containing fea fheOs, and
roots of vegetables^ the growth of which would. ieem to
have been checked by the fuperincumbent firatum. $tb^
^Ifo a ftrong blue claj, with yellowiih feanM in it, about
5 feet detep^ and containing a much greater proportion of ve*
^etable fubftances than the 4th ftratum, but under like cir-
cumftances. The river rifes to the furface of this ftratum
in fiream tides. 6th^ Three feet deep of the £uxie kmd df
firong blue clay, mixed with more than double the quantity
of vegetable roots than in the 5th firatum, but which alfo
feem to have been bom down, and their vegetation extin-^
guiihed by fome fuperior preflure. Thefe three are fepa^
rated from each other by a fmall feam of {and and clay,
ivhkh forms a pretty ezafi line of divifion, and through
which the vegetable roots do not feem to have paiTed. ^tb^
A real peat mofs, near four feet deep, quite full of various
kinds of vegetables, with roots, trunks, and branches of trees ;
the furface of which forms the bed of the Tay ; io many
places of which the mois can be diOindly traced, perfedly
entire, dean, and firm, without having received the leail
injury from the flux and reflux of the tide *, and out of which,
at other places, great quantities of peats for fuel have been
dug at different periods, and are fo dill. It is very re*
jnarkable, that in this firatum many roots of large trees
are to be found, principally allar (alder) and birch, at
about 13 feet diflant from each other, perfedly upright, in
the (ame fituation in which the trees had originally grown^
with their ramifications extended among the mofs, and fome
of their fmaller fibres penetratmg the clay below. The.
trunks and branches of the trees lying horizontally are all
frefli, and have the appearance of having been borne down
and laid flat by fome powerful caufe } and what is alfo
veiy
55S Siatf/lical Account
vtrj remarkable, many of the root» feem to have had tlidr
tmnks cat off about fix inches above the original forfncc.
Sib, Immediatelj below the peat molb is blue claj, with-
out any mixture, and no vegetable roots or fnbftances ••
* A miu) now living, and jt yean of age, who has funk 23 pit veDs in
ferenX parts of the Carfe, fays, that after he penetrated the cultivaird fiir-
fiaice,he always found about ten feet of browniib clay, without Tcgctabk
roixtnre, under that blue clay with vegetable roots and fca Ibelh, and gc-
neinUy at about 19 feet deep he found peat moft from 3 to 9 inches deep ;
rhen blue clay again with vegetable noots of diierent depths from 9 in-
chea to 6 feet, and under that about two feet deep of peitf ino(s again,
compofed of oak, fir, beech and hazel wood. That he has feen taken oot
of this mofs deers horns, (kulls and other bones. Below this mofs he gew
nerally found blue clay and qulck-fand tinged black with the mofs. The
wells he dog wire from 16 to .^4 feet deep ; and when be fell in with
qa^k-fand before he came to the mofs, he generally found, at aboot li
feet deep, a fpring of pure foft waticr, free Qf any mineral tafte ; but
when he was obliged to go deeper, and to penetrate the mo(s before he
found a fpring, the water had a mineral ufte, and when mixed cold with
fpirits, it turned them as black as ink. This man alfo fays, he has fietioent.
ly feen oak and fir tfees taken oot of the bcacs, after being nncovctcd by
the tfdc.
Jn the year 1780, when digging in a fwamp at Caftle Huntly, to make a
piece of water, about fix feet below the furface, a very targe oak tree was
loond, Mng with its top eaftward. Tluit part of it which lay acrois the
excavation appeared to be the two laige top branches, of about i\ feet in
diameter ; tlie trunk of which muft have been of very large dimenfion^
The branches were cutout and taken up, and were found to be hard and
^relh, but as black as ebony. The body of the tree was fuffered to irmain,
led ia taking it up it had made an opening for the water to efcape : Bot it
is ftill to be feen, on one fide of the piece of water, and may at any time
be followed out, were it thought a fufficient obje^ of inquiry to ^ cu.
rions. It is from this mofly ftratum of vegetable fubftances, no doubt, that
the marth reed rifc^, and (hews itfelf in many fieLls through the Carfe ; as
they are found to be fo deep, as to defeat every attempt to get them roou^
efLongforgan. 559
Amifmtiis.'^T^t remain» of antiquitj in this parifliare
but few« Caftle-Huntlj, alreadj defcribed, is the onlj
baildiog which has any daim to antiquity, fince the old
church at Longfbrgan was taken down. In the midft of a
plantation of firs, which was part of the muir of Forga»
about 30 years ago, is a tumulus or barrow \ its central
mound about 5 or 6 yards high, and a8 yards diameter \
the furronnding ditch, out of which probably the earth had
been taken for its formation, 10 yards wide« It ftill bears
the name of the Market Knowe, (knoll), as the markets
were held there formerly ; and the country people remark,
that although the whole ground round it was then covered
with heath and broom, the Knewt always preferred a
beautiful green fward* Some openings have been made in
it, and coffins found, confifttng of four rude longitudinal
ftones, and two fmaller ones at each end, containbg human
(keletons.
A few years ago there was found, fomewbere about this
tumulus, an earthen pot, containing 700 filver pieces, about
tlie fize of a fizpence. Upon one fide a head crowned, with
Edward^ very difttnd; and on the reverfe a crofs, with •* •
in each divifion, and round it, London CiviiaSf very plain ;
and four pieces, alfo of filver, fame fize; on one fide a
crowned head, round it, Altxandtr Dti gratia ; and on the
reverfe a crois, with a ftar of fix rays in each divifion, and
round it, Scotorum Rex^ very plain. Thefe were found by
a man in this parifli, whofe bufineb gave him firequent op-
portunities to be about the place, and privately fold to a
fliopkeeper in Dundee for L. xo or L. 11 ; and it was by the
greatcft accident the circumflance came very lately to the
knowledge of the author of this paper, who has now a
piece of each in his poflcflion* He had his information fitit
from a very refpedable tradefman in Dundee, who is alfo
an ingenious antiquary, who faw them all counted, abont
two
$60 StaHftical Account
two or three jears ago« and kept the two pteoeti from which
this deficription is taken. He added, that they were all in a
ftate of high prefervattolk. This was accompanied with
another piece of curious information $ that, nearly abooc €be
fiune time, there was feond in the parifli of Inreterity, in
the county of Forfar, jnft fnch another pot, containing ex-
adly the fame number of the fame filver coin, viz* 700 c£
Edward I. and four of Alexander. Upon which he made
an ingenious conjednre, that thefe depofits, very probabl j,
had been the wealth of two brothers, who had divided it
equally, and had hid it each in his own pariib, and had been
kiQed during the troubles in thofe days.
About a dozen years ago, in making a new road throogh
a fandy hill between this pariih and the pan(b of Rqffie,
fome coffins, of the kind above mentioned, were fioond,
alio containing human (keletoas, and fome pieces of money,
both filver and. copper. The filver, about the fize of a
fixpence of Henry IV. very legible. Some of the copper,
with^irr de lis^ but nb legible iofcription ; and fome which
appeared to have been hammered only, quite rode, and
without any mark of infcription or figure, both aboat the
lame fize with the filver coin.
Upon the eaftem boundary of this pariih, but now in the
pariih of Benvie, is the remains of a fort, or fortified camp,
evidently Roman, from its fquare Ihape, and its name, Cat-^
$er Mellie^ certainly a corruption of ^uatuor MiUe^
At about three miles diftance, and upon the top of the
hill of Dron, is the remains of a fortification, which appears
to have been built of rude ftones and turf. It is roundiin,
or rather oval, foUowing the fliape of the hill, and occupr-)
ing a fpace of about two Scotch acres ; towards the fouth it
has three retrenchments, or banquets, rifing above one an*
other, as the hill afcends. It is now planted, and will very
ibon be totally obliterated. This, with another, fomethicg
cf the Ikine kind, in the adjoining pariih of Abeinyte, and
that on Danfinnan-hiU, might have been part of a chain of
poflf, ninning diagonallj acrois that range of hilk'firom the
Carle to Strathmore. Thefe, from their Aape, moft either
have been Daoilh or Scottifli ; moft probably the latter, as
thaj prefent a fiice to the point of invafion. There is alfq
n ruin near Lochtown, about which even tradition is filent.
The parilhes, in general, would appear to have beea
much fmallcr formerly than now. For, at Dron, there if
the remains of a church or chapel, and burjing-gronnd ;
and upon the grounds of Monorgan, alfoin this parifli, there
is the remains of a burjing-ground, which moft likely had
a chapel attached to it*
There is alfo, in a field near Forgan, a tombftone, cover*
ing a grave or graves, where the country people fay fome
perfonsVere buried, who died of the plague laft century.
It had an infcription to that purpofe, but is now de&ced.
About 1 6 or 17 years ago, digging (bme trenches pretty
deep for drains upon the bank below the eaft end of For-
gan, were founa feme large ftones, lying in fucb an arranger
ment, as gave the appearance of the foundation of a large
building, which is fuppofed to have been fome religious
cfiablifliment.
There is a very refpedable man in Longforgan, of the
name of Smith, a weaver, and the farmer of a few acres o£
land, who has in his pofleflion a ftooe, which is called Walr
lace's ftone. It is what was formerly called in this country
a htarfiwu^ which is made hollow like a large mortar, and
was made ufe of to unhuik the bear or barley, as a pre-
paration for the pot, with a large wooden mell, long before
barley-mills were known. Its ftation was on one fide of
^e door, and covered with a flat ftone for a feat, when not
Vox.. XIX. 4B ^ otherwife
jgSt StatiJHcal Accouni
otherwife employed. The moft remarkable part of tfat
hiftorj of which is, that upon this ftone Wallace lat in iw
way from Doodee, when he fled, after kUling the gover-
nor's fon, and was fed with bread and milk by the good,
wife of the houfe, from whom the man, who now lives
there, and is proprietor of the flone, is lineally de&codcd,
and here his forcbeers (anceflors) have lired ever fince, to
fiearly the fiune ilation and circnmfiances^ £ar aboot 509
years,
NUM.
yfMaddert^i 563
NUMBER XXV.
PARISH OF MADDERTY,
(County of Perth, Stkod of Perth and Stirling,
Presbytery of Auchterarder.)
By a Friend u Statifiical InquiriiSm
ShmaiiQttf ^c.
THIS parifh is fituated on the weftern boundaries of the
parilhes of Gafk and Trinity-Gafk, and on the eaft-
era of Crieff. It has Fowils on the north, and part of Tri-
nitj-Gaik on the fouth.— -The climate is confiderably wet
and cold. The low and damp lands alongft the banks of
the water of Pow are believed to be produdive of Theuma^
tilms, a diieafe of which the inhabitants of that difirid fire**
quentlj complain.
Pow. — ^The only watef or rivulet worth notice in the pa-
rilh is the Pow, which, for a long way, is confined in a canal
or cut that was dug to ftraighten its courfe near a century
•go*
5^ Statyiical Aceant
ago. This cot U about 24 fiwt in widths and 6 in depdu
The defcent is fo verj fmall, that die water appears goe-
rallj to be flagnant. The hnds adjacent are low and H
which, with other circumftanccs, ezpofe them to firtquest
inundations. This would not be altogether un£mmbk
to their agrtcultural improvements, could thelie floodii^ be
kept under contronL This, perii^ii, could be cafiljsc-
compliihed b j fmall embankments and fluiees, or kinds of
locks, ereded'in proper places, ibr the managrment of tfac
water. At prefent, the damage occafionaflj faftaiiiffi oa
dkle elands is very confidarahle. No encoBffgemmt is
held out to the &rmer to inftitute any kind of improve-
ments upon them. Much good foil is carried away by in-
• nndations, or in a great meafure ruined by ftones and gn-
vel thrown upon it. lime and dung, that may be i^p&d
toK their finrtilizatioo, are Ibmetimes carried oi^ or mudi
injured by the water % and the crop^ elpedally in harveft»
is always in danger of being whoDy IfA. A navigaUe a-
nal through this part of the country, from Perth to Crie$
could be made at a (mall ezpence, and woold be of great
advantage to a large and populous didrifi.
JEmr^— The valued rent of the pariih is L. 347a: i : 8
Scots; and the real rent may be about L. 1500 Sterliif*
Pcj^ttitfibfr.— According to^Dr Webder's account in
1755, the number of inhabitants of Madderty amonsted to
996. At prefent, (1795)9 it is 00 more than 631, whicb
makes a decreafe of 165.
Agriadtvrt, — Hufbandry here has not been carried to
diat flate of perfefiion to which it has arrived in fome dif-
trifis of the county. A climate rather cold and wet, and s
foilof aconfiderably ftiffcky in mod places, have cootri-
fcttted to retard, in this neighbourhood, the advancement
ofMadderty. 565
•f agricttlHtfttl improvements. Sometbbg, however, bats
been done in the melioration of the Ibtl, and in the fyflem
of croppmg. Lime and marl have been tried with fuccels;
mnA the lowing of graffes has been attended with great pto-
fit to the huibandman. Farms, in general, are fmall, gi*
▼ing from L, 15 to L. 50 Sterling a-jear. The largeft in
the pariih pays L, 90 Sterling a jcar. Although almoft
wholly arable, yet very little of the parifli is inclofed ; a cir-
cumftanoe which is attended with much inconveniency and
I0&. More grain is produced than is neqeiTary for the ufe
of the inhabitants. The common Scotch plough, with two
horfes without a driver, is lately got into prafiice. Ploughs
of Mr Small's conftrudion have alfo been introcuced. The
land, in fome places, contains great numbers oi JU-fa^
ftones, which prove to be great obftruffions to its improve-
ment. The Rev. Mr Ramfay, the prefent incumbent, who
occupies a piece of land full of theie ftones, conftruAed a
machine for the pnrpofe of railing them« It operates on
the principles of the pully and cylinder, or wheel and axis,
and has a power as x to 24. It is extremely fimple, being
a triangle, to two fides of which the cylinder is fixed. It
can be eafily wrought and carried from place to place by
three men. A low four-wheeled machine, of a ftrong con-^
ftrudion, is made to go under the arms of the triangle, to
receive the ftone when raifed up. This machine has been
already of great ufe in clearing (everal fields of large ftones
in this place and neighbourhood.
Ahhty of Incb-fffray.'^TYiis religious houre was fbandcd
b the year 1200 by Gilbert Ear] of Stratheam, and his
Countefs Matilda. It was dedicated to the honour of God,
the Virgin Mary, and John the Apoftle and Evangeltft.
The fite of this famous Abbey is on a fmall riling ground,
which (eemsy from its fituation and namci to have once
been
566 ' Statyiical Account
1)eefi an ifland furrounded by the water of the Paw. lo
Latin it is denominated Infula Mijfarum^ whidi is fkid to
be a literal t^nflation of its common name, Incfa-effray, for
Inch-peffray, the Ifland of Mafles, or die iJOand where msEi
is faid. It was endowed with many privileges and inuna-
nities by David and AlesEander Kings of Scotland. The
edifices of this Abbey, which were once eztenfive^ are now
in ruins, and have, on feveral occafions, inpplied abimd-
ancc of ftones for building honfes, and making roads in the
neighbourhood. The few remains of thb ancient Abbey,
with 6 or 7 acres of land in the immediate vicinity, belong
to the Earl of Kinnoul, who, in conGequence of this com-
paratively fmall poflefllion, is patron of about twelve pariihes
that formerly were attached to the Abbey* Sianritins,
abbot of this place, was prefcnt with Robert the Bruce at
the battle of Bannockbum, and is reported to have had
brought along with him the arm of St FiUan. This lelid^
might, indeed, have given fome encouragement to the fu-
perftitious ; but one arm of a brave Scotrman, fighting in
earned for the liberty of his country, had more effc& in ob-
taining that memorable vidory, than conid have been pro-
duced by the inate virtue of all the relicks of the dead that
could have been colleded. " James Drummond, a younger
" fon of David Lord Drummond, and his Lady, a daughter
*' of William Lord Ruthven, was firft llyled Lord Inchafiy,
** being Commendator of that Abbacy, and afterwards
" created Lord Madderty by King James VI. in the year
" 1607. He married Jean, daughter to Sir James Chit
** holme of Cromlicks, and with her got the lands of Inner-
•* pefiry, which were her mother's portion, bebg heire& of
" Sir John Drummond of Innerpcfry Hf had, by his isx^
•« Lady two fens, John Lord Madderty, and Sir James, the
« firft Laird of Machony/'— Nj/i^/'i Htraldry^ vol. i.
Cburcb.
ofMadderty. 567
Cbvrcb. — The prefent church is fituated about three-
fourths of a mile from the ruins of the Abbaj. It was
built in the year 1689, and is not in the beft ftate of repair.
Lord Kinnoul is patron. The Aipend amounts to 9 chal-
ders of vidual^ and L. 29 Sterling, including the ezpence of
communion-elements. The glebe confifts of 9 acres of
land. Manfe and offices are in good repair. Some of the
Seceding meetinghoufes in the neighbourhood draw from
this pariih a confiderable number of hearers.
ScboolM — ^The parochial fchool is under excellent manage*
menty and is defervedly in high repute. It is attended by
numerous boarders from different parts of Scotland, but
chiefly England. Mr David Malcolm, preacher of the
Gofpel, is at prefent mafter, and teaches Engliih, Latin,
Greek, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, mathematics,
land-meafuring^ &c.
Poor.— The paupers on the pari(h-roll afe commonly
about 4 or 5. They are fupported by the collefHons made
on Sabbaths at the church, which amount to about a s. 3 d.
each Sabbath. There is alfo a fund of L. 90 Sterling, L. 29
of which were bequeathed by two heritors, lately deceafcd.
None of the poor are permitted to beg.
Tradefmen.'^The, whole pariih may be called agricultu-
ral ; and the only places that may be denominated villages
are Bellycloine and Craigs ; but as each of them confifts of
a few houfes only, they hardly deferve the name of villa-
ges. Except a very fmall quantity of coarfe linen, for the
Perth market, there is no manufadure here. The quantity
of linen made mnft be ihiall indeed, when it is confidered
that there is only feven or ei ht weavers in the parifli, and
thefe are chiefly employed in cuAomary work« This place
is
568 Statical jtccomU
«
IS alio fiipplie4,^th 4 Uackfinitlis, 4 wrights, a
% tailors, and i nuDer.
Prici ^fhabwnr ami Prov(4!Mtf .— The& here are equally
high with any place in the nei^boorfaood. A daiy-kbonr-
cr receives X s. 4d« abd fomecimes is. 6d. a-daydming
fnmmeri and a (hilling in winter ; a pkraghman's wages are
from L. 8 to L. ID Sterling a-year.— The price of provifions
the lame as in the town of Perth, and freqoently confide-
rably higher, as the heft prices are often charged for articles
of a very inferior quality. No ale nor whiiky fold poUic-
ly in the pari(h. Coal is the fuel moftly nfed by the inha*
bitants. It is moftly bronght from Blairingooe, in the pa-
rifli of FoOaway, at the diftance of about 24 miles. They
are alfo had from the ihipping at Perth, at the diftance of
xa miles, but the price is higher than at Blairingone. Far-
mers here, and in moft of the neighbourhood, iet a higher
value on a little money than on their own time and labour.
This muft always be the cafe where there is no manafac-
ture, and farming and hufl>andry are not carried on with
proper vigour.
Koads^r^n^t, parochial roads, for there is no tonpikc in
the parifli, are extremely bad, being hardly paflaUe in wet
weather. The communication on both fides the Pow is,*^
however, kept up, by means of three bridges c^ fione thrown
acTO& that rivulet.
Proper Namis.^^The names of places in this pari(h are
partly Gaelic, and partly Englifb. To the former belong
Tilly chiandie, Bellycloine, Dallarie,Ardbennie,Balgowan:
But Redhilli Woodend, Dul^d, &p. belong to the
latur.
tffMadderty* 569
^Mitjuity.''^Tht oolj remains of andqmty in tho pariih
Worthy of notice, except the ruins of the A.bbej already
mentioned, is a portion of the Roman road or cao&way
from the camp at Ardoch to Perth. It runs about a quar*
ter. of a mile through the fouthem extremity of the pariih^
And is very entire. It is probable that it will not long con«*
tinue in that ftate, if it can by any means be converted into
a highwayi or afford materials far maldng or repairing
«me«
VoL.XlX« 4^ NUM.
570 Staii/Hcal JecouM
*M UMBER XXVL
PARISH OF MINTO,
(CoouTT OF RozBUEOR, Sthod ^f Meksk avd TiTiarr-'
DAL£, PuBSBTTXItT OF Je1>»UROH)«
B/ WiLLXAii BimH» D.D. Mimjir.
THE parifh of AGnto is almoft as oblongs eHending
from ea& to weft 3 j- miles i firom loath to noitii il
flules. It is bomded on the eaft bj the parilh of Ancnim;
en the north, bj LilKefleaf $ on the wefi, bj WBton ; os
the fouthi bj CftTexs, £rom which it k almoft divided bj
the river Tiviot.
Hitiionj'-^Thett are three refiding herhofs : The Right
Honoorable Sir Gilbert EUiot, Baronet, "the pBtroo, whofe
eftate lies on the eaft fide, and comprdiended the old parilb
of Minto. The fiunily of Minto, for ages pafi, tiave beco
fo eminent, both in the Senate and in the other depnrtmcnts
of the State^ that anj thing I can £17 might be ooofideied »
BfMinto. 571
mere panegyric. The houfe is large and commodious, has
a fouth expofiire, and is fitoated on the bank of a beautiful
winding glen, extending almoft to the Tiviot, and well
docked with a variety of old trees, with natural and ardfi*
cial falls of water. In coming along one of the ferpentine
walks on the fide of the glen, the ear is all at once furpri-
fed with the unezpeded noile of the largeft of thefe falls,
the view being intercepted by a thicket ; on advancing a
little forward, the &11, the bridge, the large iheet of water,
the furrounding banks, interfperfed with variegated trees
and ihrubs, and the houfe, gradually open to the eye, excite
the mpft pleafing emotions, and form one of the moft beau-
tiful landfcapes that can be figured : The reflexion of this
landfcape in the water adds to the grandeur of the icene.
The pleafnre-ground is extenfive, and laid out with great
tafte. A little to the .eaft are Minto Rocks, interfperfed
w|th clumps of planting, which- form an awful and pifiu-
refque objed, , From the top of thefe rocks there is a beau-
tiful and extenfive profped of the difierent windings of the
Tivioc, and the adjacent country, for many miles round.
Here are the remains of a building, which, during the in-
curfions of the borderers, feems to have been a watch-tower.
Behind the houfe, to the north, are two hills, which rile
with a gentle alcent to a confidenible height, and are ex-
cellent flieep-pafture. At a fmall diftance from the hpufe,
and in the middle of a grove of trees, (lands the churchy
wlwh is neat, clean, and well feated. The village is pla-
ced about half a mile to the weft, and contains 34 families,
moftly labourers and mechanics. To the fouth-weft, an
Englifli mile from the church, are the manle and glebe.
This was the boundary of the old parifli. Now, there are
annexed the lands of Haflendeanbank, belonging to his
Grace the Duke of Roxburgh, and the lands of Haflfen-
dean, the property of his Grace the Duke of Bncdeugh.
Oa
57^ Stati/lical AccMtU
On the weft of Haflendeanbank is the eSate of Tiviotbaiiky
latelj purchafed by David Simpfoo, Efq; another refiding
heritor, who has built a neat modem houfe on a rifingfaonk*
in view of the river, and ornamented the pkce with a va»
riety of plantations. On the weft and north- weft are the
lands of Haflendeanburny Horflejhill, and Hnntlaw, belong-
ing to Robert Dickfon, Efq; the fecond heritor in the pa-
rifh, who has latelj built a large convenient honfe a Gnall
diftance from the water« In this comer was the fire of
Haflendeanbura church, fuppofed to be an appendage of
Melrofe Abbey, (the fium next to it goes by the name d
Monks Croft, where there was a tower called Monks
Tower). The church, and moft of the church-yard, are
carried off by the water ; yet, fo ftroog is the defiie ** of
** fleeping with our fathers,' that they continued to bmy
here, thought after every flood, the haughs wove covered
with human boqes, till laft winter, a great fwell of the river
fwept it all away, except one comer. Since that time,
fome of the dead have been lifted and carried to diflfeveot
burial grounds. This pariih is now divided amongft the
parilhes of Wilton, Minto, and Roberton. The origiDal
ftipend was all annexed to Roberton. Here I moft oftr an
advice to landed gentlemen, always to take care that the
ftipend be annexed together with their lands. The pro-
prietors of thb old parifli have found the difadvaatage of
not attending to this, by the different, proceffes of augmen-
tation that have been raifed againft them by the fevenl
minifierSk
Nurftry. — On the lands of Haftendeanbom was cflablilb-
ed, by the late Mr Dickfonls father, one of the fixft nnrie*
fief in the kingdom, which was carried on by the late Mr
Dickfon, who alfo eftablifhed the nurfety at Hawick. Bodi
t!he(e aurieriesi %re nqw carried on by the Mcffi^ Dickfoos ;
lid
ofMinto. 573
and in point of extent* obara&er, and circulationi are equal-
led by few, if any. They contain all kind of foreign and
native forefi trees, fruit trees* flower-roots, and plants and
flowering ihrubs, that are naturalifed in thb country ; be-
fides a great colle&ion of exotic plants. From this nurfery
origioated that carried on by MeflTn Dickfon and Company,
Perth \ that in Edinburgh by MefTrs Dickfons and Com«
pany.
fo^ir^-— The foils in the pariih ^re various. Towards the
river it confilb of difi*erent kinds of loam, well adapted to
turnips ; £mher nan\k it is a firong clay, and clay loamt
both on atilly bottom*
Jlfa«ttr#.*-Same feams of marl have been difcovered,
but io iSmall, that they do not depend on thefe, and drive
lime and marl at a confiderable diftance and great expence*
Lime laid down on the field, 2 s, the lime-buihel, which is
equal to three Winchefter buihels. Marl, 3 s. the double
cart.
^(crcc.— The number of acres 52x3 ; of theie, 475 arc
planted with foreft trees.
ImplemintJ ^ Hu/ia9dry.^^The £ng]i(h pkagb is Qni«
verially uied with two hories. Tbraihing machines are
beginning to be ufed.
(7fc//i9^fo«.— The mode of cropping or rotation, until
within thefe few years, for a long time back, was as foL
lows ; — ^The infield, divided into five breaks^-x. Fallow,
with the dung of the farm, wheat, peafe, barley, oats, and
then &II0W again, Sec : The outfield* firft fidded with the
oattle of the hna in general, then fown with oats for three
or
574 Siatiftical Acctmni
or fStfSiwap. ind even longer, if the return was a little
more than tt^MMs ; after that, fidiow, without an j kind
of manure; then two crops of oats, and fidlow again eTerj
third year, as long as it would produce a decent crop i then
allowed to go to paSnre.
The prefent mode followed in the partfli :— -The light
land firfi well prepared for tnmip, which are fown in diiih
neatly made up, nunured with the dung of the fiurm, and
lime or (hell marl, fo far as thej can be practaredy not to
lofe the feafon for the turnip \ part of which is eat on the
ground with Iheep, and part with cattle in the hoofe* When
eat with (heep, it is not uncommon to fow wheat with
gra&^feeds,* which, in general, fueceeds welL When the
turnip is carried off, barley with grais-feeds ieldom fsib of
a good crop $ theo^^ay is taken, thi^ fog, or fecond crop,
eat on the ground with Tarioos kinds of ftod^ ; then, ia
autumn, taken op for wheat, which is fown with one fior-
row ; after the wheat, oats, and then tnmip ; Ibfnetxmcs
they take up with oats, and then turnip ; when the land a
naturally very good, and in high order, wheat is- taken
after the oats, then turnip : After this rotation is followed
twice, the gra(s is allowed to lie for pafiure two or three
yeai9, theu taken up as before. The land that is too heavy
for turnip, or the clay lands, are taken up from gra& with
oats \ then fallow with the dung of the farm, and a full
drefling of fkell marl or lime (15 double carta of asarl, or
6 double carts of lime/«r Engliib acre) fown with whett;
then peafe, then barley with gra&^feeds, then hay, and
after that three years paftured ; then cropped as before.
Grafi'fttds. — When 'only one crop is taken, they fow
12 lb. of xtA clover, and half abuihel rye-grals, to the £og-
)i|h acre *, when to lay in pafture, 6 lb. of white clover,
tf Minio. 575
5 lb. of red dover, 2 lb. of rib-gfals, half a buibel of rye-
graft. .- *-
Notwithfiaading the above mode of cropping, fome, of
late years, paftore the firft crop, nvhich thej find pays weU,
and does more juflice to the land.
Kinds ofStocir^The kmds of ftock kept or bred s Sheep
of the Cheviot breed on the outfield ; on the infield, or
improven lands, the Diihlej or BeckwcU breed have beea
tried, with advantage, for a few years. The fliort homed,
or Teefwater cattle, prevail, and pay the breeder welL
Number of fheep, z68o; black cattle, 380. Yet it may
be fuppofed the parifh is able to keep a great many more ;
but the refiding heritors are of ofe to let, from year to
year, a coafiderable number of graft parks ; and fome of
the farmers, who follofif the tumip-huflbandry, have a flue-
tuatiog (lock. Niunber of ploughs 36. No oxen nfed at
prefent. Befides the hor&s kept for the plough, there may
be about 46 riding and young horfes. The harveft in ge-
neral is early. The whole parifh b inclofcd with boon-
dary fences, and by fiu: the greateft proportion of it fubdi-
vided with ditch and hedge, interfperfed with firips and
clumps of planting, which ferve both for (belter and orna-
ment.
Servants ^a^#/.— Servants wages have been on the rife
for fome years. A married maD, or hind, L. 6, 10 s. a cow
kept, a fione of meal in the week, a firlot of poutoea
planted, a peck or half a peck of lintfeed fown, a free
houfe, with a piece of ground for a garden, a certain quan-
tity of fiiel carried $ it is uaderfiood, at the fiune time, that
the wife or children are to aifift at carrying in ftacks, &c«
A man, within the boufe, from L. 6 to L.o. A woman
fisrvanty within the houiii, firom L« 3 to L. 4. Day-labour*
576 Statijlical Account
ers, at an average, x s. 3^. per i^j m fummery and i s« ic
winter. Women, who work out of doors upon the Burm^
8 d. Harvcft wages fluftuating. Laft harreft high.
For fome years, I have obferved with pleafure the rapid
progrels of improveixient within the pariih ; the happj
chapge of the mode of agriculture \ the quantity of foreign
manure, both lime and marl, carried at fucb a diftance tnd
expence, and the advantages arifing from it^ the atten-
tion paid to roads and fences, fo advantageous to the inha*
bitants, and agreeable to travellers*
J{otf^/.— There are many public roads : The fends aii-
iing from the converfion of the ftatute-money being very
fmall, and not adequate to making and keeping the rosds
in repair, fiill the principal roads are very good, owing to
the attention of Sir Gilbert EUioti who, for fome yean,
has made and kept up, at his own expence, the roads kad-
ing through his lands ; whereby the fimda are applied Vf
other roads within the pariih.
Popultttiott.^-^The number of inhabitaiit% 5x3 fouk
The increafe and decreafe of popalation cannot be aicer-
tained with precifion, many being accuftomed to bory in ,
Haflendeanbum, where no regifler has been kept. For |
fome years back it has increafed confideraUy. In 1755, it |
was 396. The Eftabliihed Church is the only place of pa*
blic worflup within the parifli ; they attend regularly and
decently. There are few Seceders of any denominatkn.
Poor^— The number of poor, for thefe two prece&g
• years, has been, at a medium, x6, and annual payascao
L«50, railed by a regular poor-rate, one half paid by the
heritors, th^ other half by the tenants. There are L jd
belonging to the kirk*feffion, the intereft goes into the oA,
or.
of Minto. S77
or. alongft with the coUeaions, is diftributed by the feflion
in interim fupplies, in cafe of ficknefs, or any other imforc-
fctrn calamity. In 1782, when oatmeal rofc very high,
the cnrators of the poor bought in a quantity, and fold it at
a reduced price, both to the poor on lift and poor houfc-
holders with large families. There are no begging poor
in the parifii. The poor-ratcs arc more than double within
thcfe ten years, notwithftanding the liberality of the fa-
mily of Minto, who, when on the fpot, gave a good deal
of private charity, and a weekly proportion of broth and
meat, which is continued in their abfence,
Manfe. — The manfe was removed to iu preCent fituation
in 1773, and is in good repair. The glebe confifts of 35
£ngliib acres. The ftipend upwards of L. 90.
SchooL^Tht eflabliihed fchoolmafter is the only teacher
within the parifli. He has a houfe, garden, and fchool-
houfe \ falary Lt I2, including the emoluments of feilion-
derk, coUefting the poor-rates, gcc. The number of fcho-
lars, at an average, between jo and 6o» In March 17939
above 50 fcholars were feized with themeafles in two days,
fo rapid was the infeffion. The ichoolhoufe was then
fmall and confined, which moved the heritors to build one
in an airy fituation, the moft beautiful and commodious in
the fouth of Scotland,
Fff^/.-^The diflance from fuel, and other local dUadvan-
cages, have hitherto difcouraged manufaftures, &c« notwith«
ftanding there are a number of mechanics* Weavers, 7 ;
blackimiths, 3; tailors, 3; one nailor, who employs 5
hands ; three carpenters, who employ 10 hands ; one com
and one lint mill. Coals in general are burnt, (which are
carried at the diftance of 30 miles), and peats and wood.
Voh. &IX« 4 D CbaraUer^
578 Statijlkal Accwnt
, Chara3ir.*^The inbabitanti are honeft, ibber, tnA ia-
duftrious i feem contented with their fituation, as no xnnr-
dersy fuicidesy or crimiaal profecutions, are remembered to
have happened. The £umex9, in general, are refpefiabk
well informed people, pa j great attention to huftandrj, to
the rearing and feeding of ftock. The air is good ; fd«
dom vifited with any epidemical diiieafes. There are no
public^houfes within the parifli. I have not been able to
difcover any antiquities or natural cnriofities but fiicfa as
fxe common, vix. (lone coffins, petrifying fprings, largs
fleers horns, 6lc. found in mofles.
NUM.
tfCollington, sn
NUMBER XXVIL
PARISH OF COLLINGTON,
(COUNTT OF EOINBUlLGBy StKOD OF LoTHXAK A>^]|
TwUQDALXy PaSSBTTERT OF EDINBURGH.)
By the Rev. Dr John Walker K
Situation and Extent*
THIS parilh is fituated in the coimtj of Edinburgh. It i$
in the prefbytery of Edinburgh, and f jnod of Lothitn
and Tweeddale* It lies weft from Edinburgh, and reached
within two niiles of the fuburbs* It extends about four miles
call and weft, and about five miles in a fouth and north di->
redion. It contains above 5000 Scots acres» the gro&
rental of which, including mills and quarries, may be near
L. 6000 Sterling ; but, excluding thefe, and alfo woods and
plantations, the real land rent amounts to about I^. 4125
Sterling, The valued rent is L. 45 14 Scots.
In
Thii tccount 19 in tbftnA of a more cxteaded hiftorr of the patiib of
CoUtngton, to be publiflied feptntdy-
S 80 Statijlkal Accwnt
In the year 16351 and for a long time after, this pmtk
appears to have been a wild and uncultivated track of
country, and thinly peopled. Even fo late as the year
2709, it contained only 318 examinable perfons. Since
that time, however, the lands have been indofed, and £b
much cultivated, that it is now become one of the moft
produftive parts of the country. The num(>er of iohabt-
tantB has of courfe been confiderably augmented, and is at
prefent upon the increafe^ firom the enlargement of the
metropolfs, and the advancement of manu&ftnres.
The numerous mills ereSed for flour and barley ; the
mills for the manufaftnre of flax, paper, tobacco, and the
wauking of cloth v the fl^innery manu&fiure \ the bleach-
ing fields ; a flouriihing diflillery \ a manufafture of mag-
nefia ; and the great quarries of Hailes and Redhall ; have
brought together, of late years, into this parilh, a concourfe
of people, and a degree of opulence formerly unknown.
Seventeen years ago, only 25 perfons wer^ employed ia
Che manufafture of paper : At prefent, 9a perfons are occi»>
pied in the pariih in that manufBi&ure, who, with their &-
milies, amount to about 300 people.
The whole pariih is now eftimated at mofe than three
tents above what it was in the year 1769.
The hill of Caerketan-craig, in this pariih, the moft
northerly of the Pentland Hills, is 1450 feet high abore
the level of the fea ; and the hill of Capelaw, fituated to
the weilwaf d of it, maybe abont ico feet higher. The
Logan-houfe Hill, lying ilill further weft In the range, tod
the higheil of the Pentland HHls, was found, by geometri-
cal menfuration, and by repeated barometrical obfervationsp
to be 1700 feet high above the level of the fea at Leitfa,
which is only 60 feet le(s than oqer-third of a neaibrej I
mile. I
The
tf GolUngton* 5B1
ttlie arable lands of the parifli dope gradually from tbd
flclrts of the hills to the level of the river ; and thej are in
different places from 250 up to 600 feet above the level of
the fea. This occafions a great diverfity of climate in the
^ourfe of three or four miles, and a great difference in the
ripening of the crops^
Cburcb^r^Tlit church Was built in the year 17739 and is
m very decent and convenient ftrudure for public worfliip,
Though plain, and executed at a very moderate ezpencei
it is rather elegant, both on the outfide and iniide. It has
even ferved as a model for fome pariih churches that havf
£nce been built*
JlfAi9/i.<a-The manfe was built anno Z784, at an expence
lufficiently liberal, but with very infufficient workmanihip.
This u the cale with the generality of the manfes in Scot*
land, and which renders them, in proportion te their fiz«,
the moft ezpenfive houfes in the kingdom. Imperfedly
executed at firft, and that ufually for want of a proper fu-
perintendence, their frequent repairs and rebuilding come
to be a matter of great inconvenience to the incumbents^
and of much additional and unneceflary expence to the
heritora.
Stipends — The i^ipend annd 179a remained what it was
in the year 1635, amounting to L. 55 : x6 : 7A Sterling.
Since that time there has been an augmentation granted by
the Court of Teinds, which is not yet allocated.
The fall of money in its value is well known to be a
great hardflup, and efpecially of late, upon all perfons of a
fixed income, and upon none more tiian upon the clergy of
Scotlaod*
The
5d^ StatiJIical Acct^unt
The ftipend of Collingtoo, as appointed in the year 16351
Was not only a competent, but a liberal provifion for th^
ininifter of this pari(h at that period. It was more than
equal to L. aa3 : 6 : 5-A- But this, far from being finga]ar»
is univerfally the cafe with all the clergy of Scotland*
Glebe. — The extent of the glebe is lefs than what the law
appoints ; but even though it were of legal fize, it could
not be profitably occupied and cultirated by the incum*
bent, without an opportunity of renting fo much addidonal
land, as would afford fufficient work for a man-fenrant and
two horfes*
^ri&oo/.-^There has always been a tefpedable grammar*
fchool kept in the pariib. It has always been well taught,
and well attended, not only by children of the middle and
lower ranks, but many gentlemen, who have afterwards
proved an honour to their country^ have received die ek*
ments of their education here*
The fch(k>lmafter'8 falary is 200 merks Scots, the higbeft
fum appointed by law, which, with very moderate fchoot
wages, and fome fmall emoluments as £eflion-cleric, forms
the living of a worthy old incumbent. But it is altogether
an income that could not, in the prefent times, induce any
young man, fufficiently educated and qualified, to under-
take the office.
Poor. — ^The poor are maintained by the colIeAions at
the churchi and other funds, under the infpeAion of the
kirk-feffion, and partly by an annual afleQment upon the
heritors and tenants. The inrolled poor have each a dated
allowance monthly; befide which, incidental charities,
fometimcs indeed the mofl neceflary of any, art beftowed by
tfie
of CoUinjfton. 583
ihjt, feffion on other perfons in diftrela. Thefe inroUed
poor are 27 in number. They have from 2 8. to 4 s. a«
month ; or from L« i, 4 s. t^ L. 2, 8 s. annually. The col«
leflionsat the church'^door and other dues, belonging to
the feffion, amount to about L. 35, and the afTeiTment is
L*. 3O9 forming together the annual fum of L. 65. Of this»
L. 45 are required for the fupport of the poor on the roll \
and the remainder is bellowed in occafional charities, and
in defraying, the little neceflary expences of the church.
Though thefe inrolled poor are the moft indigent perfona^
in the place, none of them are in fuch a ilate of poverty as
to be reduced to beggary. There are no beggars belong-
ing to the parifli, as it is made known to all who are ad-
mitted upon the poors*roll, that if they happen to beg thejr
forfeit their penfion«
J2^//^i..Thi8 pariih contains more land of a low value
than any other part of the country at an equal diftance front
EUlinburgh* The preCcat rents, notwithftanding, are con*
fiderable ; nor could the lands, at thefe rents, be profitably
held by perfons inferior in ikill, or in ftock, to the prefent
poifeflbrs. The arable ground lets from 30 s. to two gui«
neas the acre; but there are many fields in tillage, towards
the hills, of inferior value.
The rent of houfes for cottagers is nfually from 15 s. to
40 s. a-year. The houfes which give 40 s. are well buUt
and flated, but are too high priced for the income of a com*
mon labourer.
Craps* — ^The prevailing crops here are, wheat, barley^
oats, beans, peafe, potatoes, fummer tares, clover, and ryt*
grals. The fowing of bear is entirely given up. . There is
very little flax cultivated, and no rye. Few turnips are
taifedy a^d Iddom any cabbages or colewprts, but in fparing
quantity^
584 Statiftical Account
quantitj. There is but little white clover fowfit theri
being but little ground laid down £br pafture.
As wheat is accounted the moil profitable {^roducet there
mre annually about 290 acres occupied bj this crop. A
great deal of land, though naturallj unfit for wheat, is, bj
the aid of the Edinburgh dung, employed in raifing that
grain.
Potatoes form an important and ufeful crop^ being bodi
profitable in itfelf, and an excellent preparation for wlicit.
The potatoes are all raifed by the plough, and are borfe*
hoed. Tho fields of them are eztenfive ; the produce on
the acre is generally large, and the market-price at Edin-
burgh high: though potatoes cultivated in this way are
«ever equal in quality to thofe raided in lazy beds by fpade
culture.
About one-fifth of all the arable ground^ io the parifli 13
ufually under plover and rye-gra&.
Priei of Labour. — A married ploughman, with aD his
perquifites, has generally to the amount of i s. every work*
ing day, or about L. 16 a-year*
The hire of a plough, with a man and two horfes dorxng
winter, for what is called a long yoking, is 4 s, la fpnng,
when there are two ^okings, the price is 3 s. each yoking,
or 6 s. a-day*
When this plough is hired to till by the Scots acre, the
price is 10 8. an acre. At one yoking a-day, the plough u
occupied upon the acre about two days and a half.
When harrowing is hired, it cofis % s. an acre; but 3 fc
when the ground is lee.
But the manufadurer pays for labour what the hufbsod^
man cannot aSbrd. During the fhorteft days of laft winter,
a common labourer, eroplpyed by manvifftfiurcis in this
parish, had i s. 4 d. a-day.
ofCMingttm. 58$
jAfinwivi^-— There is 00 manure ofed in tbe pariih bnt
^^ffrhat each farm affords, excepting the Edinburgh dung, on
^which the farmers chiefly depend for their cultivation and
their cropa. This is purchafed at about 10 d. or i s« each
double horfe-cart. If the carriage, between 3 and 4 miles^
be efiimated at i s« 6 d. then each cart cofis about 3 s* 6d.^
bat the cofi muft be fometimes mor^, and mi^ be ibnie«
times lels» according to the diftance, .and other drcnmftan-
eft. The carta which bring the dung from Edinburgh
frequently carry the com, hay, and ftraw from the furm to
tbe city, which occafions an abatement of the ezpence. The
quantitj of dung befiowed on an acre is ufually betweea
30 and 40 double carts.
Ploughgates. — The old ploughgates in the parifli, when
worked by 4 horfes in a plough, were 42 in number* Laft
year, the ploughgates were rated at 49: which at 12 s.
each, as charged for the fiatute-labour, amounted to 1^27,
5 s. Sterling.
Where thefe 42 four-horfe ploughs were kept, there are
now 60 two-horfe ploughs employed.
The 42 four-horfe ploughs had 168 horfes and 84 men.
The 60 two-horfe ploughs have 120 horfes and 60 men.
The two-horfe plough is one of the greateft improve-
ments that has yet taken place in the hufbandry of Scot*
land. It feems to have been introduced into this pariih be-
fore the year 1770, though in the year 1771, the plough
with 4 horfes was ftill uled in many places.
The ufe of the fingle-horle cart is but a late occurrence.
It did not take place in this pariih till about the year
1780.
Pofulation^r^^dott the middle of the laft century, thia
pariih appears to have had but few inhabitants. Their
Vol XIX. 4 £ ftumbeo.
586 Steaiftkal Account
/
nnmbers, however, cootiaaed rathto on the increafis till die
time df the feven jean famine, that is, from the year 1695
to the year 1702, during which period they are £ud to
have been much diminiflied. From the year 2703, the
numbers did again iocreafe, till about the year 1710. At
that time, they Were again reduced by the efiabliflimeiit of
larger farms, an^ continued for many years fiatioflaxy* But
by the increafe of the metropolis and ^of manu£ibftiiits» the
pari{h has again, for a c'onfiderable time, been advaociiig
in population. There are no uninhabited honfes in it^ If
any are demolilhed, it is but in order to their being rebntk ;
and every year there are new odes ertAed, which ai« im-
mediately filled with inhabitants.
In an information prefented to the Court of Teinds ia
the year 1709, this parifli was faid Co contain 318 esainia*
able perfons. If to thefe a' fourth of nnexamiaaUe pcrfcBS
be added, the whole inhabitants amounted to 397. From
a record in polTeiSon of the church, it appears, that about
the year 1750, the whole inhabitants of the parilh amoont-
ed to 782. In Dr Webfter's Report, atuw 175 ji Ae auni-
ber is ftated at 792.
At prefent, the number of inhabited houfes in the pariih
is exaftly 3x3 ^ and the number of inhabitanta is 1395
nearly \ which, to ^ trifle, allots 4^ inlud)itants to each
houfe.
If tlie extent of the parifh, as is computed, amoonts to
5070 acres, and the number of people is X395t H coDtnins
between 3 and 4 acres for each inhabitant. This is a veiy
great degree of population, compared to the extent of land;
efpeciaDy as there are upwards of 1600 acres of fheep-walk,
and other grounds, which do not occupy 40 people. Bnt
tiie greater part of the inhabitanta are fupported by manu^
£i&ureS| and by various occupations^ independent of the
foa.
irthu
ofCoUlngton. 587
Bhths^^t 18 well known that the parifli regilters in
Scotland have feldom been kept for any length of time'
with fafficient accaracj* In this pariili, the regifter of hap-
tifins has been continued with uncommon regularitj, from
the year 1655 to the prefent time. Manj of the fedarieSy
and an the people of the Eftabliflied Church, with few ex-
ceptionsy have always regifiered the birth of their children.
The baptifm of children, alfo, from other parifbes, has al^
-ways been punAually diftingoiflied ; fo that a more ezaft
regifter of baptifms. fpr m period of 140 years, is feldpm to
be met with.
From that regifter it appears :
I. That during the above period of 140 years, there
were 1447 males, and 2168 female children baptized, which
fixes the number of males bom, compared to that of fc*
males, at 11 to ii nearly.
a. That in fome particular years the births of one fex
greatly exceed the other in number ; but in the following,
or in a few fubfequent years, both fexes return to their or--
dained proportion, Notwithftanding many temporary in-
equalities, the balance^ at laft, is prefeYved upon the poife.
Yet this b but one, among a thoufand infiances, of an im-
mediate unremitted fuperintending influence, direfied by
unlimited power and wifdom,
3. That there are fome years in which the inhabitants
are remarkably prolific, compared to what they are in
others. The number of children bom in one year is fome-
times nearly double that in the preceding or fubfequent
year, while the number of inhabitants muft have been near-
ly the lame.
4. That the average number of births for 10 years paft
is 39t «nd the number of people 1395. This allows 37
perfons for each birth*
5. That
5S$ StatifHcal Account
5. That tlie tTetmge nomber of biiths bong 39»*ftad the
Bomber of houfea or fkmUies 313^ eadi Mniial fairtb cone*
^poads to 8 fittmiiies.
TwMi.-i-From the above regUler it alio appesrs 3
X. That of 47x5 children* baptized in tbb pirifli, 94
were twins \ therefore, ^one twin-^ld lor 5X ohildicn bap-
tized.
%. That during 17 ycaiSi ioefclding die feirteo <
there was no twin birth. In ona paiticohrr jtax
were 3 fucb birtiis.
3. That in the whole period, the nude twia«diildreo
were to the female as 40 to 54.
4. That the number of maks prevailed in Aoie jean in
which male twins were born ; and that of the females 20
thofe years in which female twins were bom.
ACurm^ei.-— There has been an ezaft reg^cr of marri^
ges kept in this parifh from the year 165 5 to the preftBat
^me.
From that risgiiler it appears :
t. That during the period mjcntioned, there are 1395
xnarriagts recorded ; but reckoning only one half of thofe
marriages, where one only of the parties was a parifliioBery
the number would amount but to xo6o.
2. That from the year 1655 to 1794 indnfive, the bap-
ti&ns were 47x59 and the marriages io6o. Ouriag the
laft ten years, the baptifms were 40 x, and the aaarriages
91. In both ca&s, the marriages were left than a foorth,
but more than a fifth, compared to the number of bap-
tifms.
3. That, at prefent, there is only one marriajp annoallj
for 155 inhabitants^
Diod^i.— Thes(0ifter of baikb ia Akrfmtdk hmhmn
If try carefully kept finoe the year ^1%%'t dUliagMfhwtg ijb»
death of children and of adults* of flrangeis and of pa«
xifluoDers. ^
Frooa tba'abo¥e.j:ogifter of buriala ibr 49 yeaies icilf»
peaxs,
s. That Che bwrtab were 944; dvruig the kft id feat8»
175. In the fimner period the binhshad been 2696: sa
the hitter^ 394. In bedtcaiesi ihe fairthB eompured-tathe
deaths approach to the peopoitton of a'to x, fanning a verj
firiking account of- the iocreafe of. the peopk in this part
of the ooontry.
2. That the nnmber of firangeia from odiet pariihca
buried here amountSt at an ayerage, to 6.perlbas annually,
which is confiderably more than the number of pariihioners
buried in other places.
3. That of the 944 perfons buried, 451, or nearly one
halfy were diildren under 14 years of age.
4« That there are about ao deaths annually \ and above
60, perhaps 69, inhabitants for each annual death,
5. That in this, as in all other regiflers of deaths, there
are years moft remarkable for their health, and others for
their mortality. In feme cafes, the caulies of this great
difference are to be obferved» but in others they cannot be
difbemed.
6, That near 70 years ago, and even about 50 and 40
years ago, the number of deaths was greater than at pre-
fenty though the number of people was certainly left. The
lower ranks, which form the body of the people, are now
lodged, clothed, and fed, in a manner more friendly to
health than in theie former times.
Difia/esj'^Thexe are no local diftempers, nor any pecu*
liar appearance in any difeaie, oblervable m this parilh.
The
^ Sta^kai Account
Hkt^nt U bkibrioas, and the Ibil in general drj, widioiit
wnj gcoond fogs or ftagnating water.
Jtitrir.— On tbe liver of CoUtngton, which rifies on the
Midi fide of the Pendand HiHs, and after a conrfe of about
l6 miles, runs into the fea at^Leith^^^ere is much of dot
lomantic fcenery for which the finall riven in Scotland are
lemarkable i 'where they mn in deep narrow glens, amidS
great variety of 'ground with rocks and hanging woods, ac-
oompanied with (mall level fields or hau^, ^rtile in ooro
and gra&. This (mail river does more work than perhaps
any other, even of the largeft fize in Scotland. In a coorfe
of abont lo miles it drives the following MiJb :
Corn-mills, - • 14
Barley-nliUs, • • za
Flour-milli^ « • ao
Lint-mills, • . 2
Wank-mills, • • 5 .
Paper-mills, • • 4
Snuff-mills, - -.5
Leather-mills, - - a
Saw-mills, • . ^
Total, ^l
jlgricuhun^f^Tht httfi)andry here is endrely regulated
by the fupply of dung which is brought £rom die city of
Edbburgh. This local advantage leads to a peculiar me*
diod of farming ; proper, indeed, for fuch a fituadon, thou^
inapplicable to the country in general.
Ca//A.F»The number of work-hor(es in the parilh is about
I'ji'^ of (addle hor(es, 31; and of carriage«hor(cs, 10; ia
^fCoUington. Sj^l ;
ally %i%, The number of die cows is 127 aeaiijr; and
cfaat of the iheep abont 4000*
There are not above half a dozen breeding fwine in the
pariih.
j9ii».— There are aboot 35 winter hivet of bees in the
parilhy and formerlj they were much more nu;ncrous,
jtMtiqukia.'^Oi the names of places in this pariihi thes^
occurs but one evidently, derived from the Gaelic } the refty
like that of the parifh, are almoft all of Britiih or Saxon
ori^. On the lands of Comifion there are Hill the veOi-
ges of a very large and ancient encampment. Adjacent to
this camp» and near the houfe of Fairmilehead, an extenfivc
and important battle had been fought, and two very large
conical cairns ereded, on demoliihing which, for the pur-
pofe of making the turnpike-road, remains of human bones
were found in them, and feVeral fragments of old arms, two
of which are ftiU in the poflei&on of Mr Trotter of Morton*
hall, the proprietor of the ground. Not hx from thefe
cairns there Had likeWile been ereded an upright pillar
(lone, which dill remains. It is a rude mafiy block of
whinftone, of a flat (hape, 7 feet bi^ above the fur&ce of
the ground, and above 4 feet below it. It is called the Kcl
Stane, an old Britiih word fignifying the Battle Stone. It
has fldlb paflTed immemorially by the name of Camus Stone,
which would leem to intimate its connexion with fbme
Daniib commander.
NUM.
59»> Sta^tisdl Mtomt
NUMBER XXVIII.
I
PARISH OF INNERLEITHEN,
(COVVTT OV TWXB1>1>AU OR VwtiMiAB; Stw0D aT Le«
TBlAir AWh TWSED0AI.B, PAES^TTBAT OF PKSBI.U.)
J?f l£r li#v. JOBW Walkek, Mmifitr g
Niamem
'T^HE water of Leitheiit which bOs ioto Tweed near the
'^ middle of the parifh^ gives name to the whole, and
pours nearly all the water of its eztenfi v fiirface into thb
noble river. This is the lad great acceflion Tweed reoeives
be&re it leaves the diftriS to which it gives name. The
old parifh of Innerleithen received, as an addition, all that
part of the Ihpprefled parifh of Kailr.ie which laj north of
the Tweed.
The parilh bears a nearer tdTemblance to an eijcdlatersi
triangle than an j other regular figure ; each fide of which
amounts to about 9I- miles. The courfe of the Tweed,
from the boundary of the parift of Peebles on die weft, to
die
^ Innerleithm. SBf9
the boimdafj of Stow on the eaft, forming the fouthemi
Bde ; and from Tweed-bank at Spittlebope Born-foot to:
Blakebope Scarr, the north-weft; and thence to Tweeds
bank» below Thomylee, the north-caft. It contains, accorw
ding to Armfirongy who made a map of the county abont
20 jrears ago, 12,270 acreS| Scots meafure. What propor*
cion the arable land may bear to the whole furface is not*
eafily determined. The land in tillage, cofhmunibus annisj
is confiderably under 1000 acres, of all kinds of crops. The'
general appearance of the parifh is broken, nigged, and
pre<apitous, rifing from "the brink of Tweed, and the courfe
of the Leitben, to near 1000 feet, without, in fome places,
leaving fpace fufficient for the breadth of a road,« unlefi af«
fifted bjart, which has been but fparinglj beftowed to
that pnrpofe. Though, to a (banger paffing along tho
highway from Peebles to Kelfo, nothing feems to ftrike his
eye but ftones or rock, yet there the indefatigable flieep
find a variety of fucculent plants, of which the apparent
more abundant pafture of the northern expofure feems to
be deprived. The pariih gradually rifes from Tweed to
its northern point, where it meets with the contiguous pa-
riihes of Eddlefton and Temple, which bound it on the
north ; Eddlefton and Peebles on the weft ; Heriot and
Stow on the north-eaft. Tweed forms the fouthem boun«
dary, and feparates Innerleithen from Traquair. Windle-
ftraw Law is the bigheft ground in the parifli, and is in the di-
re&ion of the north-eaft fide. Near this mountain, the coun-*
ties of Edinburgh, Peebles, and Selkirk meet« The whole
expofure of the parifli being chiefly fouthward, is produdive ,
of fine grafs. The fiieep-walks, though high and elevated,
are, from this circumftance, nyich valued by the fiirmer as
fure fpring ground ; at which feafon, from the inconftancy
and feverity of the weather, the animal^ already reduced
Vol, XIX. 4F bj
^94. SiatyHcAl ji^ccimt
hf the wister ftoms, fuffen mixft« From tbe tunc canie, i
t;^ early vegetation arife^i vjiiph is denied to the northeni '
•xpofure, and» .from its fiiCGulenpje, f^miihes fuftenuoe te
the dam to iupport her tender brood.
Soift Ufi^r^ln the courfe of ages, the decompofing power
eC the atmofphere, ai^d the decaj of vegetable {bbBanccs,
l^kve formed the greater part of the foil. The common
vbipftopey an4 otl^er fc^iftic rock^, have formed die bafis
pf the greater part of the faperft^pup, ^hich contains a
.confid^rable proportion of c^j, fa maybe foppofed, be-
<aufe formed from that claft of rocks. Tbe fiibfideoce
irom the Tweed and Leitken has formed the leafi, hot moft
^ile foil. This being fiibjeft tp ipun4atioo, is not fb fblij
ipder ^e power f>{ t^'farpier a^ the hanging ptalna above
^ther. Jx^ tbefei fprings borfting through the fiflbres of
^ rpckSf known b j the name of iinid fpnngi^ am} large
i^ones S9e4 in the egrthp were unfbrmoantable difficoltics
to tbe inexperienced fvpier of former times: now«
though agriculture is here only in its infancy, the afiive
and intelligent know how tp pv^oine bptb, with prodi-
^ous ^vantage to tben^elv^,
Clim^t^ Pifiqfeh ^^••*r-Tb!e cUmate, in fucb an exten-
five hilly diftrifti muft be yarjous \ the air, however, is
dry and healthy. The banks of the Tweed have an early
harvefi, both from the fliarpnels of the foil, and tbe genial
expofure. The lowed part of the pariih was fubjed to aa
annuail vifit of the ague at^out 20 years ago \ but whether
from the drainage of the land» or from the better agricul-
ture of that particular part of tbe parilb, it has for fome
time paft entirely di£ippeared. No epidemical difeale af>
fXBs the inhabitants' at prefent. Rheumatifm, caufed by
^ad aud damp bou&s, and low living, In general afflidi
' ' " ' • • ' ths
^lie lower daft as they advance in life. A hotife fof tht
accommodation of this ofeful order of men is^ for the moll
part, conftmfied of ftooe and feal, is reared on a faddeOf
mud the occupant inhabits it as icon as conSrnded. Ill £>
cured from the eflfefis of the weather, and fcantilj fnovided
^ivith fuel, which is both dear and fcaree, the feeds of thlft
difeafe are rooted into the conftitntiony which the vigour of
youth maj for a while brave \ but, as old age advancesy (dU
idom fail to manifeft themielves in great virulencci. and im^
pair the (trength of manhood by tmtnature old age. Inoo*
eulation for the fmaU-pojc gains ground, from experience of
its ufefulnels, though contrar j to the theory of religiaus
prejudice.
Fijbt (/^.'^^•Affociations have been formed to prefervo
the iaimon in Tweed during clofe-timCy which can produce
no good, fo long as Iaimon are not permitted to come up
be yoM a certain length before this feafon commences. The
intereft of no dais of men here is concerned in their pre-r
lervation. Tc^roake it fo, the proprietors below muft yield
up a few of their good filhi to give the pec^le above them
mn experimental proof of the difference betwixt good and
bad falmon. The want of this makes them unable to di*
ftingaiih the good from the bad \ and all is fiih that comes
in the net. The firft ftreams in Tweed in which the fal*
men depofit their fpawn are within a few miles of ihm
bounds of this parifli. The people here can judge, by tho
sppearance of the fiih, whether it will depofit its fpawn lA
Tweed or its feeders. Tweed formerly produced a grettt
^aotity of (almoo ; now they are feldom to be caught, ex*
ccpt after clofe-time. Trout are to be met with in great
quantity both in Tweed and Leithen. Pike are found ia
ibe old run of the Leithen. Birds are of the lame kinda
sU over Ihe county. Quadrupeds the lame alio,
Mtmroi
.$g6 iioHJiical Account
MinerU 5]prM3'.— -The water which iflbes out of diii
fpring is of the ikine nature with that of Harrowgate. In
»a&7 diforders it has been prodqAive of orach vdief to
the affliAed. To fill this aocoant o£ cures perfismicd, or
to leogthen it by giving an imper&fi analjfis of its water»
would be improper. Two ftrong fafis, which have come
to hand, and^e weU attefted, of its laoatiye c&ds, ooghc
not to be pafled over. The/ both relate to cafes of infla-
inatio» in the eyes. The firft is of a girl of zo yeais of
ogei almoft bUnd^ frona the oeighboiirhood of Hawids, who,
by continuing to ore the'mioend for about a monih, (ac two
feafonsi' returned home the laft ieafon perfefily recovered.
The other is of a yoimg woman from Galaihielsy with a
fimilar complaint^ who, by ftayiog five weeks, returned
home with the full ufe of her eyes. The firft could di(-
cem nothing diftinfUy when (he came the firft feafan* The
hfi could not diflinguifh any objed at the diftance of 50
yards. Thefe cures, with many others, can be very weD
attefted. In all diforders' of the jblqod, its eifeAs are highly
beneficial, particularly in cutaneous eruptions. The want of
accommodation prevents a greater concourfe of people firom
being benefited by this falutary fpring. So far as thst k
afforded, it k at one feafon of the year fiilly occupied. The
ihort diftance from Edinburgh fliould make it a defixabk
Watering place*
Pofuiaiiom, — ^The number of fouls in the parifii amoonli
to 560. The males, 289 ; the females, 271. Average of
Carriages for the l^ft fix years, 4^ Bapti£Bi5» i6.
Jfafe
^f Innerleithen. ifff
Matis. Ftmidis*
Under 10 jean of age, - • 7a 66
Under ao, • -63
Under 30, - 4 a
Under 40, - - 19
Under 50, - - ap
Under 60, • - a 5
Under 70, , - ^ - 29
Under 80, . . 8
Under 90, - - a
44
33
3J
^5
ai
7
o
289 271
Making in whole, 560.
Of thefe» 388 inhabit the village of Innerleithen, and aaa
the reft of the pariih. Population in 1735, bj Dr Wcb-
fler'9 account, was 559.
It maj not be improper to remark, that the whole of
this-extenfive pariih is in the hands of fourteen occupants ;
and that of thefe, two onlj are fulfilling the firft command-*
inent with promife. Such are the hopes of the riiing ge-
neration, amid the wafie of men bj the ravages of lawlefs
ambition. Where the cottager meets with a mafter whi>
gives him a cow's grafs, he finds himfelf able to raife com-
fortably a family for the ufe of his country. Their wants
are few, and eafily Catisfied with milk and potatoes. To
the credit of many of the farmers here, they ailift in rear-
iogi by thefe accommodations, a race of ufeful labourers
for the fucceeding generation. Though the farmers in ge-
neral (eem to have an averfion at matrimonj, it muft be
mentioned to their credit, that they liberally ailift thofe
under them who do lb. The greateft number of the inha-
bitants are employed in agriculture, and the care of their
aomerous flocks \ a few mechanics and tradefmen are all
that
59^ Statijlical AuQuni
tliifccwbe excepted'; and thcfe oo more Chan wlimt the taf^
ply of arddea of the firft neceffity require.
The village of Innerleitheny from its fitaatioDy bodb of
many advantages. Pleafantly (ituated on Lcithcn-water,
near its jundion vrith Tweed, in the he«t of a ooaatry
whofe ftaple is wool, in which provifions of all kinda are
plentiful, it feemed formed by nature for a fice of wooDcn
manufadure. What muft have occurred to every one
iince the value of manofafiures were known ui this codd-
try, was left to be accompliihed by Alexander Brodie, £%
of Carey-ftreet, London. Some few years ago he ercded
a large workhoufe, at confiderable expence, from the patrio*
tic purpofe of promoting a fpirit of induftry in the vicinity
of the place Which gave him birth. Upwards of L^joco
Sterling were expended on the works and macbinerj,
which is of the beft conftrudion } but from caufes which the
author does not choofe to dwell on, the mannfadnre hts
tiot gone on with that fuccefs, to the advantage of the pn*
tieman who erefted it, that its firft beginning promifed.
The fault neither lay with him nor the condu&or of the
work. Such as it is, it returns, on the whole, very wtU.
An infant manufafiure, in a country irmfy paftoral, has many
difadvantages. Tlie whole operations of teaxing and card*
ing are performed by water. The houfe confifts of five
floors ; the firft and fecood of which are occupied by the
operations performed by water, and which, had circum-
ftances been favourable, would have by this time been far-
ther extended; fpinning jeanies, looms, &c. of various coa-
ftru61ions, occupy the two next. The higheft is a fiore*
room for the raw material. From 27 to 80 hands are em-
ployed within doors, and as many at leaft without the ma-
nufafiory. Children from feven years of age are employed
in the operations of teaxing and carding, and earn a a. 6 s. ^
week. The beft fpinners can make 18 s. fir week. The
beft
of Innerkitben. 5^
fceft TTeavers as much. Thefe two lafi, in general, wm^
bj the piece. The dyen have a fixed weekly rate, which
Offers according to their qualifications. Inthecoorie of
ehe firft year after the work was begun, cloth was mana«
£a&ured to the amount of L. tftoo Sterling, and has gnidu^
ally increafed.
The whole of Mr Brodie's attention as a ufeful member o£
fociety is by no means direded to this one objeA. His ez«
tenfive operations in Shropihire and London are too gene*
rafly known to need particular mention. To promote a
fptrit of indufiry in this diftriS, he engaged in this mann-
£iAure, and gave the dire£Hon of it to hb nephew, who»
though not at firft acquainted with the trade in wool* by
application, ibon made himfelf mafter of the bufineis.
Sbtipf Horfis^ and Cattle^ — Upwards of 15,000 Ihcep ase
kept, in general of the black-fiBwed kind, as a breedii^
dock* There are 90 horfes, and about aoo head of Uack
cattle. Few of the floremaflers have thought of changing
their fiock of ewes and rams entirely, but they have of late
puxchafed ibme of each, particularly the rams, fince the
price of wool has increafed fo confiderably.
The Iheep pafiures and arable grounds are occupied by
the fame perfon, as is the cafe over all this diftrid. It is
not how many acres of arable, but how many Icore of iheep
does the farm hold, which fixes the rent.
Stipend^ Church, — ^The ftipend is, eommunibus amnsf about
L. xio. The Duke of Queeniberry b patron. The glebe
contains, for the fite of manle and garden ground, and crop
and pafture, about 10 acres and a half. It has been alked|
AVhat proportion of ground ought a minifler to poflels aa
glebe, that the occupancy may become profitable ? The an-
swer muil depend on fuch a variety of circumftances, that
it cannot be of general appUcatipo. If it is aiked, Will the
miniftcr
^09 Stati^ical Account
jninifier of Iimerleidien have a profitable occapancj ? Na
The land he poiTefles will not enable him to emploj his
naa and horfes half the time they ought to be employed.
Ground cannot be labomned without two horles. Two he
-muft keep, for the hiring of his ploughing he cannot obtain.
One horfe he ooght to keep for parifli dut j ; and when this
'requires one horfe, the other is thrown idle as to the tiiliog
•the ground, and many other farming purpofia. Should he,
Apoftle like, abjure the ufe of hor&s for hb own accooH
.modation, he may then drive in his fuel, and have bis
little farm cultivated in proper feafon ; but every year be
•muft go to market for fodder to maintain his boriiBS \ aad
this the late incumbent confidered as an average expence
of L. j p4r annum ; which, added tathe wages and mainte-
nance of a ploughman, renders the glebe a lols rather than
profit to any incumbent. Without a cow, no family can
be comfortable in the country ; the glebe, as yielding this
benefit, isr, with all its pecuniary di&dvantages, highly ufe-
'fol. Conld the minifter of Innerleithen find people to hire,
for driving his coals and tilling hb land, and be, by thefe
'means, under no ncceflity of keeping a man-fervant aad a
pair of horfaa, he might then not be under any diflScahy of
providing fodder for two cows, and a horfe for parifli datj,
and by that means his glebe would turn out profitable.
As circumftances Hand, this cannot be obtained. Accom-
modation, therefore, sftid not profit, is all that can be looked
for. Twenty acres of farm, at a reafonablc rent, would
render the clergyman"^ fituaiion comfortable, and the pof-
feffion of the glebe profitable. Such is the outline of an
antwer to the qucttion, as it relates to this parilh. The
writer of this report fpeaks not from theoretical fpcculation,
' but from dear bought experience ; and what is true in the
one cafe is fully applicable in the other. Both manfe and
church are in a gopd Hate of repair. The manfe was buiic
fcr
qf Innerleithen. 6oi
for the lad iQcumbent \ the cburch a few years agO| and, for
its iize, is one pf t^ie neatcft country churches in the county.
The poor aRT^ fupported hy a poors-rate^ oue half paid
by the heritor?, the other by the tenants. .The raite has ad
additional increafe every year, which is a geneirat obfex«7a-
tion made from every parifh where this mode of provifion
has been recurred unto. The fellion have {bme funds in
their haads, which they diilributf to the rood indigent of
ihofe who receive the legal provifion, in ca£ra ^f particular
diftreis. The late incumbent pjitained from the Earl t&
Traquair, when he fitted up the mineral weU, the* right of
difpofing of it, feafon by feaibn, to forae pauper, who, by
opening and^(buttiki|( it to thofe who reforted'te»it, might
be entitled'td aiafy pecnnthry gntuity they pleaCsdtd confer.
By tbe.r«giilatioQ9i it was to' be o^en two houis every
morning, and two every evexfing, Sunday evening excepted.
Mr Brodiiii' whofe geberbfity i^ only equalled' by his* im«
partiaiity, gives L. 5, 5 s. fevdrjlyear, to be diftributed b|f
the diergymsn to poor hoofebiojders. As foen* a& ibis geii-
tleman had a permanent iateveil in the parift^he began to
feel for tfar wants of the indigent, and ihoagh not bbli^d
by law to provide for the pbor, he made a law for himfel^
by which he has comributed more to the nteedy, (ban thtt
moftatenfive pvoprietor b boniid to by law: THi», ^ith
the eitcnlatton of money proAoced by thofe employed in
the mamifaAovy, many of whom are old people and chit-
dren, who oooM have earned tittle of nothing, has benefited
the poor of the village very much.
J|f<^ii/i,uJWIietheir thSd Vafier abqtrifition of mtittey harf
had atend^xicy'tdimproV* ttfetaidTals of the InWer clafe,
may be cafily determined -ffjr the'cxpcrifence of every' body.
They are ftflt found' in their reHgious principles, and pique
themfelves on* being J[o. H^ligton anti ihorality, or rather
Vol. XIX. 4 G that
6o2 Stati/lical Account
h
' that branch of it, fobrietj, have long been at odds in tfab
diftrid. Example goes beyond precept* The lorwer dafr
willy if poffible, imitate their betters. What proportion
the Diflenters may bear to thofe who are of die EftabfiAed
Church is beyond the power of man to determine. The
▼arioQS denominations among us ufe times of vacancy, if
poffible, to carry off as many as they can ; and difgnft, or
dilappointmenty or any thing, in (hort, may, with a little
fophiftry, become the pretext. Thefe canfes have already
begun to operate, and what efieds they fitall produce time
alone can unfold. .
SiT^poiL— -The average number of (cholars may be betwixt
30 and 35. The greateft number are in fpring. The
ichoohnafter teadies Latin, Englilh, writing, and arithmetic;
Hb emoluments of o£Sce are L. 100 Scots.
Mr Brodie, who equally regards, in his extenfive- philan-
thropy, the fnftenance of the body and the improvement of
the mind, gives him L. 5, 5 s. for educating poor children.
His office of feffion-derk may yield L. i. He has likewife
a free houfe and garden. His whole emoluments can hard-
ly exceed L.ao per anmtm. He has contrived to tear a
fiunily upon this flender income. If emolument of office is
neceflary to promote its ufefulnefs,. this moft impoctant of
aU employments for the good of Ibdety, a country Idiool*
noAfter, will ibon be no more, unleis ferae means aie &Iien
upon to render it more lucrative and xefpedahlft.
jtiUijuiiiei^^-'Tower houbs uf met with in a ruinous
condition at the mouth of every defile through this exten*
five pariih. Tradition is filent, except in two or three i»-
fiances at mofi, by whom they were occupied. If the lame
icenes of iniquity were praAifed in them all thai the records
of the prefl)yter7 of feeblcs attaches to one of them, thej
have
tf InnerleUben. 603
have •defenredly become the habitation of owls. A ftrong
SortificatioQ was ereded, in times of hoftilitj, on a rifing
gcoqnd immediate! j adjoining to the village of Innerleithen.
Veftiges of the foffam are fiiU difbernible on the outfide of
the third line of circumvallatioD. Within the third of thefe
lines there is a fpace of ratheii^ more than an Engliih acre.
An immenfe quantity of ftones have been coUefied to form
thefe lines. No cement feems to have been employed.
The loofe ftones were, however, boilt with confideiable
care. By whom confimded, at what time, agaihft whonit
sue queries to be aofwered by conjeAure only.
Nanus ofPlaces.'^Thtlt are, in general, borrowed firom
die dialed of the language at preient fpoken*, £bme from
their preient or former proprietors. Horlbrugh Caftlcy
Tower, and lands, derived their name from the ancefiors of
Horlbrugh of that ilk, a confiderable proprietor at prefent
in the parilh« The onfpa of the name the writer leamedt
in the courfe c£ this inveftigadon, to have arilen from the
following circumfiance :^-During the time that Peebles vn»
« hunting refidence to tjtie Kings of Scotland, the King and
his noblai were engaged in the fport of hawking. The
hawk flew acrots the Tweed after his prey. The river
hqtpened to be in flood ; the King and the nobles could
not follow. The anceftor of the family, of the name of
either Hunter or Hamilton, was, at the time, ploughing on
the lands, which afterwards, by royal grant, became his
owa } acquainted with the river, whole banks he cultivatedf
he loofed his plough, and with one of his horles came acrofii
.the flream, and reftored the hawk and his prey to the royal
hunter ; for which meritorious fervice the King endowed
him with all the lands within view of hu plough north of
Tweed. As he>wa9 crofling the river, either the King» or
one ci his attepdantSi cried ottt» Har/e hrtnk wel, and thenco
the
<Jo4 Statijlical AccQunt
the lan£U, and their owner, Trere called Horfebniik ; ivhkh,
in the coaofe of time, have been changed into Horflnvi^,
VaUai quod wdert /kojffti.r^^lhe prefent proprtctor has, in-
de(>endeat of roy^l grant* a verj juft title to the lands on
which he refides. They came into the fiunily bj aa in-
termarriage with the naoM: of Taic ; but the prcCcat occu-
pant, by judicious improvement, has railed tiicir value,
hoxa fcarcely L. 50 of annual income, to be worth L. 300
perannum. The only fubftantial improvement xa planting
and indofingy in the whole pariih, has been eftfte|l*by him ;
and whild he has given beauty to his vicinity, he haa added
confiderably to his annual income. In a country like ours,
where fo much ftill remains to be done, every attempt to
improve trhe face of the country merits its due praife, and
ought not to be withheld.
Road up Liithett. — ^In fummer 1794, this road, formed
by fubfcription, and at prefent kept in repair by the fame
0tcans, with the addition of the money for the commuta-
tion for ftatute labour, was begun to be ufed for the pur-
pofes of driving lime and coal. During the courfe of that
fummer upwards of 3000 bolls of lime, Linlithgow mea-
fixre, and a confiderable quantity of coal, were drove on it.
This line of communications Shortens the diftanoe from coal
and lime, from X3 to 14 miles. Both coal and lime are of
better quality, and a confiderable feving in toll-bar duty
is obtained. The effeds of opening this comQAWiicarion
.Iwve already appeared highly beneficial to thole who at
firft fubfcribed, and they are, as fiur as they are individually
concerned, ready to enter > into a fecond fubicription, to
oarry th^ meafure, as far a3 their ability allows, into com-
plete efied. The narrow policy bf othersi who have not
fubfcribed, and who have taken ad vintage of this commoni-
jcation, prevents them frofti fiibfcribing at all. A pnbUc good
^ huiirldthin. '605
may by thefe means fsll to nought, and die improvement of
tliis higfalj imprtivmbk diilrifi be retarded. The aceom*
pliihing this purpofe is worthy the patriotic fpirit oif the
Honourable Preiident of the Board of Agriculture. • In his
extenfive communications with the members of that Ho-
nourable Board, lie may open the eyes of fome of them to
their own sidvantage, and may point out to the nation in
general the prc^riety of adopting this line of intercourfe
betwixt Carlifie und Edinburgh.
AiwuUagn •aJL-DifaivmUagu^'^^VL the account already
given, the advantages of diis parifli have already been
pretty fully detailed. A pure air, a fertile foil, abundant
paftuiesy the means of inftmfiion afforded to aU, even the
indigent, plenty of lidiibnr for the indnftrious, a legal provi-
iion provided for the needy, are a fliort recapitulation of
thefe. The di&dvantages are, in fome refpe6b, likewife
hinted at. The greateft of thefe is, the diflance from fiieL
Peats are not to be obtained for general ufe. Furze was
formerly the dependence of the lower daft for their win-
ter fire ; but the induAry of a farmer, who began his occu-
pancy at Whitfunday laft, has already gone far to remove
this fupply, and will foon make an abfolute fcarcity. The
lands he poflefl*es were formerly rented at L. 84 Sterling
yearly } now they are let in leafe for 19 years at L. 350
Sterling per ann. During the currency of the former leafe,
the lands might be fuifered to bear furze, and yet the rent
might have been paid. As things now fland, he muft try
fome more produdive mode of occupancy, eliie the price of
labour and rent cannot be paid ; the laft of which is qua-
druple what it was, and the firft double, in the courfe of
thefe laft fix years* The completing the road up Leithea
would bring the village of Innerieithen into a certainty of
))aving coals at all feafons of the year. An attention to
fobriety
i
606 Statiftkal Acewnt
fobriety would familh them with the meftot of providing
themiclviet with fuel of the heft and che^peft kisd. Com*
fertable at home» thej would not need to Ccek eojojaieDt
abroad. . Contented with their eooditioo, thej would not
Jbllow thqie pven to change. Thefe refleflioos bj so
means are intended for general application. Under all the
diiadvantages already enumerated, the generality enjoy, ia
a Goofiderable degree, the advantages of dvilified fociety.
They love their country, are attached to its cooflitntioo,
and rejoice in the fecurity the laws afford. If any thing is
•wanting to meliorate their condition, it b reducing their
religious knowledge to pradice.
. Real and yabiid Rmi.'^As hr as can be coojeSmed, the
real rent is upwards of L. 3000 Sterling : The vabied rait
is L. 6639 : t : a.
NUM.
^f Glenhucket. 60 j
•NUMBER XXIX-
PARISH OF GLENBUCKET,
(CoaNTT AXD StMOD OF ABBRDEEK, ^£8BTTE&T W
A.LFO&D}.
From Manrials co0mumcated by tie Riv. William
StEKCE,
npHE pBriih of Glenbucket is fituated in ebe pcdbjrtexy
^ of Alford, and fynod and coontj of Aberdeen. The
«ztreme breadth, (at kaft of the cultivated part} is not
above a mile, generally not half a mile i its length about
four. Itlies on each fide of a Cmall brook, called Bucket,
running from north*eaft to fouth-weft, where it fidls into
Don, and is bounded bj the parilb. of Strathdoa on the
cafi, fimth, and weft. The pariih of Gabrach lies to the
north, from which it is leparated by a hill of about four
miles wide« Tradition reports that it once belong^ to
that- pariih ; and the remains of the chapel, where it is
likely public worlhip was perfiDrmed, were not long ago to
be ken. The foil is, for the moft part, of a light loam, on
fome fiums mixed with day. The fprings are in general
backward, and vegetation advances very ilowly at firft :
The fiimmers are, however, warm, as the pariih is encircled
by iuUs, fo that the harvefts are by no means {b late as
might be expeded. The crops are, oats, Cor the moft part
of an early kindi and Scotch bear. Artificial grafles are
beginnmg,
6o8j Statijlical AccfMtt
beginning, and onlj beginning, to be fown, and the advan-
tages of them to b£ knpivn. ^ As there |ire, however, hardlj
any indofures, and every fiarmer, almoft every cottager,
keeps fooie iheep, they arf with difficulty fparded in the
winter. The turnips muff indeed, in general) be taken up,
as there is no preferving of them.
The people are feber, and ytrj indoftrions. There are
few that do not make thci^ ^«m ploughs and carts, and alfb
their brogues or ihoes.
The pan(h i3 the property of one heritor, (the Earl of
Fife) ; and contains, by a very exad lift taken laft winter,
(1795), 449 fouls*, 229 males, 220 females. The average
of deaths, for eight years, is about 8. The population, ac-
cording to Dr Webfter's account, in X755t was 430.
The names of places, almoft without exception, are de-
rived from the Gaelic, as Badenyon^ which gives name to
an edc^tiX idCLg \ and meaAs^ ^ \b fiid, the Bit^s Jig&, or
Tbieketi
Th^re are no fiiAds f6r t^ fii^pKi^ of thtt poor bat the
weekly collediions, uHliA are fiAatt. lAidkA^ there are
fcHom any that require eonftayit fupply. Siit or fevcn le-
teive a few ihillingB twice or thrioe in the year.
Ad the parish b (maQ, fo^ the ftipead is perhaps the
fin&Heft rtt Scotlattd*. This kn%, manfe, an^ bflkes, were alt
lately rebuilt.
The parifli fie^ at a gte«t (fiftianee from every market-
towb. Aberdeen, the poft-town, is above 30 miles off.
To it the people mnft carry \^hatever they have for iak,
and from thence all their neceftWries are procured. None
but thofe who have felt it can imagine how inconvenient
it is to be at fuch « diflance fitmi a poR>office and market-
t6wn; when, for fix or ^ight weeks, fometinies sdl communi*
cation is fiiopped.
NUM.
NUMBER XXX.
PARISH OF YETHOLM,
(CouvTT OF RoaoRGH, Stkod or Merse Aif d Tetiot-
DALE, PrESBTTERT OE KeL80.)
CoBeBulfram Maieriais communicated by tie Rev.
William Blackie.
Epttent.
'T^HE parifli of Yetholm, or 21etholin, has never bad anj
other name, as far as is known, nor does it appear that,
a part of anj other parifli has been annexed to it* Where
longeit, which is nearly from north-weft to fouth^eaft, its
eitent is between four miles and four and a half; the
breadth generally about two miles; and the Bowmont wa-
ter divides it into two parts, not qoite equal, the largeft be*
ing towards the north-weft. On the fouth, and foutb-weft^
and weft, it is bounded by the parifli of Morbottle ; on the
north-weft by the parifli of Linton; and on alltiie other
Vol. XIX. 4 H quarters
6io Statiftical Acamnt
qaarteiB l^y the £Dgli(h border. It b hilly, batthe hilk aie
green. The Bowmont ynxtx has (qme pretty kurge bsoghsi
and from the minifter's manfe to the nordi-weft there n s
piece of flat land along with thefe haughs, tot the extevt of
aboat i^ mile, — About ilraigbt weft, where this pariik
inarches with thgt of Morbottle, there is a loch of note
than a mile in circumference, in which are both pike and
perch, the flat land already fppken of refching rofiii4 T^
thplm Law till you come quite to the loch.
Agriculturi<^-A\io^t ifjo Englifli acres are adnallj on-
der tillage, and though there be fome wheat fowu, yet the
greatefl part is laid out in raifii^g bsirl^y and oats, wd4 tm:-
pips. Even the fmall tenants, who have from i and a to
xo and 15 acres, from Mr Wauchope and the Marquia of
Tweeddale, have their turnip quarter, for which, 00 ac*
count of their vicinity to Northi^mberlaud, they find a rea-
dy market, getting/ when a good crop, feme years If. 3,
others L. 5, to be eaten upon the ground with iheep. Muefa
more land could be made arable.
The fheep maintained in fummer (not reckoning die
lambs, which are about 25Q0| ^d of which xx6o are Ibid
off whilft lambs) are about 4800. They are generally the
largeft of the Cheviot breed, and if a period of |o years is
taken, it will be found upon an average, that the beft prices
in this country have been got for wool growing in this pa-
rilb. Laft fummer moft of it was fold for L« i, xx 8.^cr
ftone. It is the {hort clothing-wool, and they prefer the
New England tar, mixed with butter, for falve. In ma-
king the falve for fmearing, they take 40 pounds of batter,
^4 ounces in the pound, to 6 Scots pbts of ur, with which
they fmear X40 ihecp. A good many years ago, a trial
was made in a neighbouring parifh, farther up the Bow*
}&ontwater> of crofliog w^th the Bakewell breeds bnt it
was
^Titbotini 6x1
wmi found fo hx firom beiog tn improvement, thtt they Cold
them off as fpeedily as poffible.
The number of black cattle, except cows for milk, are
oomparatively fmall* The aomber of formers horics, both
for work and riding, is 39 \ and of fsirmers and hinds or
herds cows, is 50. For fome dme pad onlj xa osen havt
been reared ; 40 Highland cattle have been bongbt in and
fed off« Among the fmall tenants, and inhabitants who
have no land at all, are kept 76 horfes. The number of
their milk cows may be about 64, befides fome of them
bringing up young ones*
^psK0iM.— There is a common in this parifh of about
200 acres in extent, of which 40 or 50 are thought im««
proveable. There u very little wood, and the gentlemen
feem not difpofed to plant any, although there is .abundance
of land fit for no other ufe.
P«;^it£iribff.— This parilh has, I (iippofe, more than dou*
bled its population in the courfe of this century, becaufe
many villages in the neighbouring pariflies of Hounam,
Morbottle, and Linton, have been totally razed fince the
memory of people now living, and many of the inhabitants
have withdrawn into the towns oi Tetholm and Kirk*
Yetholm, two villages in which the greateft number of this
parifh dwell ; the former belonging to Mr Wauchope, and
fituated upon the north-weft fide of the Bowmiont water;
the other belonging to the Marquis of Tweeddale,and on the
fottth-eaft fide of fiiid water.
When the prefent incumbent was ordained in the year
1786, he, in the courie of his parochial vifitation, found tho
number of foub to be in Town^-Yetholm 539, in Kirk^
Tetholm 313, and in the reft of the parifti 208, making in
all 1070 louls. There were 491 males, and 579 females*
Upon
6i2 StatiJHcal Accowa
Upon tikiog a new furrrf of (he anmber of
reckoning none bot thofe who refide at pre&iit (Jamarj
X797) in the parifh, I foond in Town-Tetfaolm 490 (bob,
in Cirk-Tetholm 305, and in die reft of die pvifli xti ;
in all 976. The popoladon in 1755* bj die return fcnt to
Dr Webfter, was 699.
The reafon why die number of females ezceeft that ef
the males mnft be, that for about 30 or 40 7013 paft the
eountcy about being greatly depopulated, fiogle women un-
fit for fitf mors ferviee, or an old widow with a dflnghter or
two, moft of them equally unfit, took re&ige in tfaefe Tilla-
ges, and earned their livelihood by fpinning, perhaps fome
one of the family by hoeing turnips by the day, and Iming
themfelTesinhanreft; whiMl the males hired thcm&lrei
for herds, hinds, and farmers fervants, and were in other
pariflies. This is not mete conjefiture, for a great part of
the paupers upon the lift oonfift of fuch women, and I know
of many more who ftiU fubfift by their own labour. Be-
fides, fome fingle women, or widows, after obtaining a fa*
dement in other pariflies, come to refide in thefe villages i
becaufe flout women, fit to be employed tl^e whole feafoa
in every kind of out-work, are fo fcarce in proportion to
the demand, that no farmer will let a cottage, bat upon the
condition of being fiimifhed with a worker, for whom, even
in the tumip-feafon, they pay 8 d. or 9 d. per day, without
viduab. Thofe who were hired by the day in fbmmer
1795 got X s. a-day ; and men before harveft got x s. and
6 d. a-day, without viftuals. During harveft many &rmers
in this parifli gave for men x s* and 6d. with viduals, and
none gave below x s. and 4 d. For women x s. and 4 d.
and none below x s. and a d. Some years ago 6 d. was rec-
koned equal to viAuals for a day : 8 d. is now thought by
fome the proper allowance. Labourers prefer getting their
viduals to an allowance in money.
In
ofTetUhn. 613
In order to afcertain whether, in the natural coorfe, the
number of males be greater than the number of females, I
picked out all thofe families which confided moftlj of chil-
dren, and found the males more numerous than the fe-
males.
Occupations of the Inhabitants.
Tinkets and gypfies, all in Kirk-Tetholm, including
women and children, - - 50
Weavers, - - - - ' 35
Smiths, - - . ^
Wrights, . . . ,5
ShoemakeiB, - - - 5
Coopen, one of them alfo a wheel-wright, - 3
Day-labourers, - * 49
, Pkntghmen and hinds, « - 25
Shepherds, - ' - 16
Schoolmafters, . • 4
Millers, - - - lo
Skinner, - . • - . - 1
Retailers of merchandife, - - 6
Tailors, - - - 9
Mafons, - ' - - 9
Waukere and dyers, - - 4
Thatchers, - - - 3,
Gatherers of eggs, having no other occupation, a'
Bakers, ... 7
Gardeners, ... 7
Carriers, one a dated weekly carrier to Kelfo, 9
Surgeons, one given over bufinels, - 2
Butchers, - - - 2
Coblers, * - - 3
Pedlar, - - - x
Fidler, - - - i '
Saddler,
6x4 Siati/Kcal AccoufU
Saddler» • . *> • i
Malftcr, * - • I
Cow dealer, - - • i
Reni.i'^Tht Valued rent of the pariih is L. 7049 : 13 : 4
Scots. The real rent is about L. 2x04 Sterling. It maj
with propriety be faid to be three times more than it was
during the remembrance of fome old people yet liTing,
Stipend. — ^Till lately the ftipend was no more than 13^
boUs oat-mealy 14^ boUs barley, 5 boHs wheat, all m Te-
Tiotdale meafure, and L. 38 : 17 : 9^ in money, befides
L. X : 13 : 4 for communion-elements. An augmcotBtifm
was lately granted of 2 chalders of oat-meaI| Linlithgow
meafure, and L. 2 : 6 : 8 for communion-elements. But af-
ter all, if one confiders, on the one hand, the great and ra-
pid advances of rents, and on the other, the abundance of
free teind in the pariih, and that the ftipend was never
augmented before, he may be juftified in pronouncing it too
ijoiall. Andrew Wauchope, £{q; of Niddrie is patroo.
Sciooi.'^'The fidary belonging to the parochial (cfaod if
zoo merks Scots. The matter is fumifhed with a good
fchool-houfe and dwelUog-houle. There are two or three
private fchoob, for the accommodation of the inhabitants.
The number of fcholars may be about 8q.
Poor — ^The number of poor upon the roll is ufually about
50, who receive from as. 6d. to 8 d. /^ week each, as
their neceifities may require. Befides the ftated poor, feme
needy families receive oocafional fupply. The funds fior
anfwering thele purpo&s arife chiefly from afleflinents.
They amounted from Whitfunday to Martinmas, in the
year 1795, to the fiun of L. 5a, 19 s. Sterling. The col-
leffioos
tfTethobn. 615
lefiions in the church, amoantiDg €0 about !«• 8 annually,
are, at die defire of the heiitorsy moftly given to indigent
peifons not upon the roll, with a view to prevent them from
becoming a burden on the public £b foon as otberwile would
be the cafe.
NUM-
6i6 Stati/lieal Accmuu
'NUMBER XXXI.
PARISH OF AULDEARN,
(County or Nairn, Stnod of Morat, and Prxot-
TERT of Nairn).
By the Rev. Mr John Patxrson.
AULDEARN is fiud by Mr Shaw's hiftoiy of Monj
to be compofed of two Graelic words, importixig die
iron-coloured brook, from a fediment of that colour ooca-
fionallj thrown out by the brook, which runs weftward of
the village. By other gentlemen (killed in that language,
it is fuppofed to denote the brook covered with alders, from
At abundance of the trees fo denominated, which grew
along the fides of it, and which ftill grow near it. It was
formerly a place of much greater confideration than at pre-
lent, and the feat of the Dean of Moray, who prefided over
ten canons, and in the bifliop's abfence prefided in the chap-
ters and in fynods. From a grant of the *^ lands of Penie
(Pethenach juxta Erin per fuas redas divifas)" in this pariih
to the Priory of Urquhart, by David !• its ancient name
feems to have been fimply Exin.
The
b/JtutdearHi fli;^
Thi^ diarch and madfe ate pleabntly fiiuoied on a.ri^
ling ground^ whkh coihinandB an eztenfive prof^ft of tbe
Mor*y Firth, and Baj of Cromarty, of part <rf five diiFerent
ifairea^ and a landfcape of many tlioufand acres of cultivated
lands. Tkey are fituated in the centre between Elgin and
Invemefty 20 mOes from each. On the north the pariih
extends i^our miles gkng the coaft of the Moray Firth, 6
miles from fouth to north, and the fame from eaft to well ;
bounded qp die fouth bj the hills of Ardlach, on the weft
by the pariih of Calder, and im the caft by Dykes and
EdinkaiHie. The foUth-eafi part of the pariih is of a rich red
mortal foU, of diiRcult cnltivatioa, but producing luxuriant
crops of barley, oats, and peaie. The fouth- weil diviiion is
of a mduld darker, and not fo fertile as the form^ri and iii
late feafbns the corn is liable to much damag^« Around the
village of Auldeani the foil is light and dry, in ihowery
feafons recompeniing the labbuts of the huibandman \ but in
thofe of an oppoiite defcription is parched, and the crop de«
ficienti The north part is of a cold and heavy loam, ex-
tremely diiEcitlt in w^ weather to labour in wiuter. The
eail and weft iides are of a fimilaf mould, producing tf^eigh^
ty crops of oats, but not fo fiivourable for barley,- althbugh
barley, in general, is the grain mod congenial to tb^ fcil oS
the pariih, and vies in excellence 4vith any ih the northern
part of this ifland. In that quarter of the pariih which is
the property of Lord Cawdor, the ground is fo encumber-
ed with ftones, that if his eRate was cleared of them, it is
computed it would rife onfc-fifch in valne.
Climaief^Tbt climate is mild and ferene, at leaft in Che
lower and level parts if the ^nlH. No dUea&s peculiar
to the place are prevalent. NotwitKftandingthe immoderate
tife of fpirituous liqnors, the rsrvages which dropiical and
confumptive diilempcrs have made elfewhere, are here hap-
VoL. XIX* 4 I pil/
6i 8 Statiftical Account
pilytmkuowo ; veryleW bav« &lkn a faoifice lo tke liialU
pox, though the peopte are in general aTer£b to inoctiladon^
from the general gloominefsof their fiuthy which teacbestfaeaHv
that all difeaies which afflift the human frame are inftanryT
of the Divine interpofitioUt for the punifhment of fin; aoj-
interference, therefore, on their part, they deem an ufiirpa-
tion of the prerogative of the Almighty.
Stati ^Prq^crf^.-^The valued rent of this parifli, at-
mounting to L. 7255, 78. Scots, is divided among fix heci*
tors. Mils Brodie of Letben has an elegant £eat in the
fouth part of the pariihi fituated in a hollow betwixt two
hills, (heltered on the eaft, well, and fouth fides^ bj planta-
tions of trees; among which the majeftic fiae of fome vene-
rable beeches, with their luxariant difiufion of boughs and
l^rancbes, muft attrafi the notice of eveiy behotdcrv^-North
of the church, in a delightful plain, beautifully variegated
with wood and water, lies the family-feat of the Duftbars
ef Boath. The garden and pleafure-grounds, with the £b-
t^eral indofures adjoining, ace laid out with the utmoft de-
gance of tafte. The family of Boath have been proprietors
of that eftate upwards of 250 years<^-Mr Gordon of finid
has a fummer lodge at Kinfleary.
The valued rents of the feveral heritors, as &ited m the
ce&-books, are as foUbw, viz. : Charles Gordon's, £(q; of
Braid, confiding of Kinftcary Park, and Auldearn, L-ajaa^
14 s. 4 d* Scots, money. James Brodie's, £(^ ofBrodie^
cftates of In(hocb, Lochloy, and Penich, Liijj^p, ix$«
Lord Cawdor's eftates of Boghdl, Moyneis, £arl&at. Black*
hills, Laylands, and Raitbne, L. 1493 : 19 : 6. Mils Brodie
of Letben, L. xroo. Alexander Dunbar, Efq; of Boatb,
L. 6ja : 15 ; 9.^ Knockowdie, L.96. The red rent confix
derably exceeds L. 5000 Sterling yearly.
Pofubiwm*
*ofJuldeam. 619
Pofu/aiion^r^n 1755 the popidation is faid to have a-
mounted to 1951 fouls. This fiatementy however, is liable
Co the fufpicion of exaggeratbn ; for the laft incumbent, in
his onfucceisful application for an augmentation of ftipend
the preceding year, I754t reprefented them* as amounting
to onlj 1600 fouk. In an accurate lift taken fpring lail
jear (1796), the parilb was found to contain 1406 inhabi*
tants ; 66x males, and 745 females*
The total of thofe who fellow the profeffion of agricul*
ture is 117. Several mechanics and tradefmen poflfefs fmUl
croftSy in order to augment the megns of fubfiftence for
themlelves and fatnilies. Of day-labourers there are 43,
IX ihoemakers, 7 fmiths, 15 weavers, 8 taylors, ; millers,
] X mafons, and 9 fquare-wrights } and there are 3 inns, and
4 merchants, in the village of Auldearn, which contains 4^
joules, imd 185 inhabitants. There are about 97 iece-
ders of the Antiburgher perfoafion, who, in conju&ipn with
fome others, attached to that feft in the neighbouring pa*
riflies, contrive to fupport a clergyman of their own in Bog-
holl, in the fouth-eaft comer of the pariih, and confines of
Edinkaillie.
This feceffion from the copimunion of the eftablilhed re«
ligicn began about 40 years fince, and is now rather on the'
decline. All the reft belong to the eftabliftunent, and join
with it, atleaft in religious ordinances, although their attach-
ment to puritanical dodrines makes many of them wander
miles to hear popular and applauded preachers.
AbftraA of births and marri^^es for i^ years, precediQg^
1797 :
MaleSn Females*
»4
9
II _
i7 "5 S8
1785 .
IS
1786 -
«5
1787 -
za
178^
!2
carried orei
•58
Total,
Marriagtt,
3»
>J
49
»9
az
Vi
34
«^
$2^
Stat^ftkid Apmmi
M«bf,
Fm^t^
^otai.
Marri^gn.
BroRgbt (
rrm 58
J7
««5
58
1789
»5
«4
*9
»4
1790.
13
• *°,
33
«i
1791
• '7
»4
3«
»3 .
X79» .
10
13
»3
xo
1793
xa
7
»9
8
»794
9
16 .
ai
. 8
1795 . •
ai
»4
35
»3
1796
ai
«5
3<S
9
176 170 346 148
Average of births nearly ^9, of marriages 114*
Abfttaft of h\t^ tni marriages for 5 years, previous »
Malts,
Females.
TotaA Marrit^
J744
. 28
26
54 Xfi
>74S
18
30
38 7
X74fi
- 18
*3
4» 7
»747
39
3»
6« xj
1748
- aa
36
59 ^
1x6
.3«
35a 49
Average of \afiia 5of , marriages 9^
Bj reafon of the negligence of tbe fcffion-clerk of tfatt
period, the lift of bapdfioos for j jFears previous to 1755,
vrhich would have afforded the faiireft point of comparj&Ot
has been very inaccurately kept- From the above view it
appears, that the population has decraafed oonfiderably,
owing, as To other places, to the enlargement of &cai% and
flocking of young^men to manu£i£hiring towns*
Advantages and Difadvantaga of tbe Parijb^ andiCf-
celianeous Op/ervatiofn.-'^Thcrt arc &w oalural woods of
aar
nxxj extent, bat ooe o£ birch c/t the dilate of Infhockr tb^
property of Mr Brodie o^ Brodie -, and fron) thist VFOO^ thr
neigbbpurhood are geacrallj^fuppUtd* wkh looft of their laEh
plcments of buibaA4r7- l^t^ likewife. are ibme .vnhiaUb
firs, equal in ^piality to thofe of Glet)mor«> ^d' wbiok lUBi
«t a itiiUing a Ipot cubic. There Ern» :howeyer» largo pte-
rations of firs intcrijp^ied with l^j?c, and every fpeciea of
hard wood known in Scotland reared on the eftates of aU
the proprietors s but the nioft. confiderable on that ef Ifr
Cordon of Br^id. The ezertioni of this gentleman, in the
improvement and enxbeUiflimeiit of his isftate, by platiring
of trees and hedges» draining of mi^rflids, bnrfting of ilones
by gun^powdcr* and inolofing of his grounds, and dms . fiir-
Aifliing confUnt.eaipIoymcnt to the indnftrions poor in Uus
quarter, deferve much praile. The extent o£ ground ooveMd .
bj Mv Gotdoaf 1 )planr«tians, including the chunpi and behs
of bis pleafiire-^ouhd, ezqeed 600 acres; and their thinnings
have already been very icrviceable for firing, and various
other country purpoles.— From the appearaaee of the dips
and rifiss of, the variws.ftrata of metals betwixt the houfe
of Boath an4 the lea, it has appeared probable to ibme per*
ipm of iagacitj aod obiervatioB, that • ooal might be proe»-
red at an expenoe no wife inadequate to the objofi, by mean»
of a4re-engine planted near the iea^ihore. And on that
property there is a quarry of datk-blue ftane, which mounts
like coal into a bkze by the operation of fire, bnt is not
consumed thereby, nor diflblyes in water like limeftone.
An almoft inexbauflible fund of marl may be found in
lioch Lity, upon Lord Cawdor's eftate, covering about 40
ac^soffitf&cc, to the depth of from 16 to aofieet; the lake
might be drained by a fimall fire-engme of L. 60 or L. j%
value. Few of the parifhioners have made application to
Jxkrd Cawdor in order to avail themfelves of this valuable
inannre. Jhe moft con^d^Ue mo6 belong to Mr Bxodie
522 StattfHcal Acamnt
«f Brodie. Some oAer proprietoxs pretend to have ferri*
tudes oh ity though with the origin of their claims the pxe-
ftnt writer is nnacquainted. The tenants are occopied do-
ling the greater part of the fummer in digging, prepariag-,
land bringing home their peats. If there was regular fbp-.
plies of coals brought to Naim^ this labour might in m good
meafnre be' fuperfeded, and the attention of the bulbaiidaian
nighti to much better purpofe, be direfied to his proper cm*
plojtment during that feafon. Large planks of fir axe coo-
tained in the bottom of this mofs/ which ferre for couples
and lath to hoiifes. Trees have been found 60 feet long,
and 3 feet iquare. On the coaft, on the north part of the pa-
riih| Ees an inconfiderable lake called Loch Loj, of a mile
in length, and a quarter broad, rather below the level of the
fea. It has formerlj undoubtedly been much larger than
its pcdGent extent, but gradually «ontnfied by the bkiwing
of the &nds in its neighbourhood, in which u^ two qf thole
hills of fio&uating find deicribed mqre ae large in the ac*
count .of Dyke*.
Thefe hills have fhifted caftward withm thele 20 yean
500 yards, ftill prefisrving their magnitude and relative di-
4ance. The largeft of thefc hills is about zoo yards pov
pendicular«-— There are thr^ markets held annually in diss
"village ; one upon the 2rft June, called* St Colm'a market,
in honour, it is fuppoCed, of St Columba, the founder of the
iponafiery of Zona.
. T^# Staii of Agriculture. — ^The inhabitants are tenacious
of antiquated pra^ices, and admit of the improvements c^
enlightened* experience by flow degrees^ The mode is aoi
piatcrially altered from that in uie 30 years fince. Wheivtbe
corns are got clear off the ground, they begin to give a rib-
furrow acrols the field intended for barley or peafe *, wka
^91 is over^ if the it^z^oj^ pr^ve favourable, they give a
dm
^f AuUeartu 625
tkfln ibtTow to thrir laft ye^*s bafley-ground, for okUf
which art begun to be fown the 28th of March, and finiib-
ed the 5th of April ; then thej begin to fpread their dang*,
and gWe a dean furrow to their, barley-ground'; a third fuN
tow precedes the fowing of the barley -, begun the 8th May^
and finiihed towards the conclufion of that month.
The harvefti in indulgent feafons, begins loth Septem*
ber, and ends about the lafl days of OSober. The common
mode of preparing their dung for barley, b one half dnngf
and the other half mortar, but more frequently fand.
The better fort of tenants have ploughs of the Englilh-
oonftniftion, dtawn by a c<3uple of horfes ; others are the
old Scots plough, drawn by 6 cm' 8 oxen, where the ground
is ftony and of hard culture* The former makes v&t of
box-carts, and the latter of kellocks, for conveying tha
compoft which they ufe for manure. The kellock is of a co-
nical figure, confirufted of twigs of broom or juniper^
interwoven in the manner of baikets ; the fabrication of
which fumiihes employment to fome of the labouring
poor. It is Ibfpended by two fliafts, in which a fingle horliv
is placed, and fet on a clumfy two«wheeled carriage. Tho
kellock is in value i s. and Aider and wheels 4 s. The
common rotation of crops after breaking up the grafs-field
J3« i^, Two of oats, in (ucceffion; 2^, Barley; 31^ Oats;
4/ifr, Peafe ; and thereafter barley, with clover-feeds, both
white and red. All kinds of clover are fown here, though
but lately introduced ; they are ufed here even only by the
more opulent; little hay being raifed by the pooreft fort*
The labouring cattle are weak and ilarving in the fpring,
for want of fodder, and are fed on draw. They are thus
often under the neceflity of fending their cattle to the High-
lands in fummer, whence they return in as wretched a con*
dition as they are fent. Potatoes, formbg the fubfifiencd
of the people one^hird of the year, arc planted by every
rank;
624 Statifttcal Account
>dmk ; hf the more fabftantial tbey cire drilled, bj the poor<
cr they ate planted in every fttirow. The latter, though
not fo produ&ive as the other^ yet are efteemed better food.
The ordinary return of an acre of drilled potatoes is about
16 bolls, but that of the other fort is not fo abundant The
barley of this parilh is iti high demand among diSillers, and
weighs between 17 and 19 ft<Hie, Amfierdam weight. A-
bove aooo bolls of barky, and an equal quantity of oats,
befides what is necelfary f&r the maintenance of the inhabi*
tants, are annually exported. No peafe are nufed but for
home confnmption, and little wheat, till laft year, that,
alured by fhe high prices of that grain, ibme farmers hare
begun to direft their attention to its cultivation, and, it is
hoped, will find their account in it. The beft cultivated
fields let from ^$ s. to 36 s. pet" acre ; but in the hilly parti
rarely above 15 s. The moft extenfive farmers rent from
L. 60 to L. 80 Sterling \ the fmalleft from ,L. xo to L. 26.
Sterling. None of the proprietors have inclofed any of
their grounds, nor give encouragement to their tenants to
do fo, although moft of them would give chearfiilly an ad-
vance of fent to have them inclofed, as their neighbours
feed their cattle promifcuoufly from the end of harvcft to
the firft jof April, which prevents improving tenants from
raifing turnips, wheat, or fown-grais to advantage.
The horfes in this pariih, about 370 ia number, arc of a
fmall fize, from L. 6 to L. io a-piece in value ; thofe pofTcf-
fed by the more opulent from L. xo to L. 20 Sterling. Xhe
black cattle, in number 910, are of a mixed breed ; Lan-
cafhire, Dutch, Fifcfhire, and Highland ; though the lad
mentioned fpecies furpafles the others in number. The fmall-
eft will weigh from jo to 60 lb. per quarter, x7-r <>*• Ativ-
fterdam weight : The middling fize from 70 to 80 lb. the
quarter : The largeft iize from zco to 140 lb. the quarter.
Xhe Iheep, about 1200, are of the fmall white-£Ked kind;
the ewa wd^bi^g &Qm< ^ to |o 1^^. per ^auterj and the^
wethen bom 8 to za lb. //r c|uarter. Their wool is e«
fle«iQedy puid xcckoped pref<erahle. to that of tbe lar|;^ blad^-
bcedr
N^ iDawfado^, flaXrioUV ot bleachfield, have yet been
eftabtift<4 here, thoa|;b fb^ (aiiib is fuppofed to be poflef-
fedoffingular advantages for ^hem all^ an^' like wUe fee
fome branch of thread or (locking manufadorj.
T^f ftipend, by dtoec^ X75.^, wa^ 'l^f^^i?, ^ ^ chaldm
of vidnali, half barley^ If alf oat-iaeal| 40Q rjaerks Scots, with
L«6o Soots for comtpuxfioa-moneyy X4'wct)icn{Aa(id.ii (bil-
lings fsn^dntj for the Paean's Crook near ElgiaJ 3ttt by an
interlocutot pf the Coprt olTeindi, 94th Fehroary 179^.
tbe ^oinifter's ftipcnd is wg^pcAted L. ^l Sterling aQnttaily^
and the meal altered from 48 boU^ of ttiQ JMafure i}£c4 an(|^
wont* to 54 bolls, at 8 (lone ptr boll.
The cbnrch was built in the year 17579 and is (lill in
good repair ; the manfe was bnilt in 175)* was refitted laft
fummer, and is now well finilhed, at the ekpenoe of above
L. 200 Sterling.
The fchoolmafter's falary is i6 bolls barley. The fchool-
houCb jf decent ; about 30 fcholars attend, who are initiated
in the elements of Latin, Englifli, writing, and arithmetie ;
his fee as feffion-derk is variable, arifing from the fines of
delinqoents. The fimds for the fopport of the poor arife
from the weekly coUeftion and mortcloth-money, amount*
ing to the (mall fum of between L.8. and L.9 Sterling year*
ly, with the intereft of L. 94 Sterling, accumulated by the
attention of the late incun^bent. The number of poor on
the roll are 56. Mr Brodie of Brodie is patron of this pa-
riih.
The inhabitants are fufficiently turned to the devout vir-
tues ; but their zeal not being of that fort which is founded
in knowledge, and which adds ftrength and (lability to vir^
Vex..ZUL 4K tue,
6a)s^ Staziftieta Ac€0tm
toe, it cooceiyed by them to Iraplj fiidi m degree of ncni
«9 to einabcipktc (bem in feme ifteiiitre from tbe irfliaiia^
of morelitjr. There are not waotiog railanccs of pcttr
tbeft^ yet tl^ey haye never been difgraced bj aa j criine xf
fo flagrant a natare aa to ftt|^ed them to m trial before «rri-
mhia} coort ; aqd their fatdtl are in gaoend die oftpting cf
ignorance and il^beral jpxrjndice, rainier than df « cmtByced
heart. " ''•
There are V^ffflgta of t^Dnxn&Ul temples,* but nor &
entire at to merit paftieolat dercnpeiba. Hnrd bj the
chmoh it a green mooat, in form almoft porfrftfy dradax,
cpmrnooly enlkd Caftle HiB, which has all' the appeanoee
of ttrtifictal formationt and wis j^bably one df diofe pbea
which anci^tisrieiis' cuuJauunB 'to* inv^ been defttBcd fcr As
jpur^ofe of hol^iftg affizeil
•*
,*. T
•
■ »' l'.
'\ • -
f
1
• . ."I .*
■ -Tf
1 •
1 •
KUM.
tfkilUan and kUttenzie. 627
NUMBElL XX±1I.
t'ARlSH OF KILLEAN AND KILCH£NXI£,
(ConNXT or AiiGTLBt Stnos or Akorii, ako ^rcsii-
.. y»RT or kxHTTM;)
f n ] I II '' »'n ><Ti ".1^ ■ I ri> .ii^i ■■ r I nil ■ ■■■■■■
THIS pari& (which confifted of two paiillia till after
the Reformation) derives its name from its two pa-
Ton lailitSt John and Kenneth, with Kill (fielld) prefixed.
It is.fituated in the prelbytetj of Kintyre, and countj of
\rg7k. It IS bounded on the foutb bjtbe pariih of Camp*
irUtown, on the north bj the pariih of Kilcalmonolt on tho
taA b J tlie miited parilhes df Saddel and Skipneis» and oa
he Weft bj the Atlantic Ocean; Its kagtbt hj the oaea^
oreoieht of the road, is 18 milcs} and its breadth abous 4.
Sbil^ Cs^c;— llie ibil alon^ the coaft is in general ihafp and
andji but jields good crops of beari potatoes, and oacSy
PQin the abundant application of iea-ware, driven in b/ tba
orms, and collected bj the farmers lor manure. Tho
rable ficdl upon thft higher grounds b generall/ a thin coat
f peat earthf on a till bottom. In the mountain there ii
cry little of green fafturt, being moftl/ covered wiih
«atb4
62 8 Statijlical Account
Climaie.'^This pariih, as it faces the Atlantic Ocesn, is
much ezpofed to the wefteftj winds, and the nuns wfakh
generally accompany them. The dimate mmj be Aid to
be moiftv or-e^en wet, but not veryoald, ennoeoinitof
the vicinity of the lea^^— The people are generally heal*
thy, and iiibjeft to few dileales. The prejodice againft in*
ocalatloii Sot the tfaiaU-poae b now done awaj^ and that
difeafe, formerly fo &tal to ehlldrtn, very feldom proves
mortal ; of soo children inoculated laft year not one diod.
Aniiqukm. —The antiquities of the parilh confift of a
number of Dani(h forts iboae mde obeliiks» and die re-
mains of oneTitrified toffcfw One of the obrlifci (which
(lands on an eminence, to which it muft have been carried
from fome eonfiderable diftance) meafiires i6 fiset above
ground, and u 4 fiset broad, by ^ihtt thick j a oarioos mo-
nunaent of the knowledge which onr forefitthers moft have
had of the mechanic powers.
Cbwreb^ Stipend^ t^r^— Extenfive as tlus paiifli ffill is, it
was much more fo before the late inctmibent, Mr Robert
Thomfon, after much trouble and expence, got a part of it
disjoined, and formed into a new ereftton, together with a
part of the nei^bouring pariih of KilcadmooeH. In this
laudable undertaking his merit Was the greater, as Us !!•
ving at the time was only L. 50 a-year, with which he had
to fupport and educate a nuiherous family. But he was a
than who made little account of his private intereft when
engaged in any fcheme^for the public good. He afiierwanb
got his living augmented to what is at prefent enjoyed by
the writer of this, namely, 6 chalders of bear, Kintyre mea-
fure, and L. 18*, xo s. Sterling money, together with aglebe,
and L^ la, 10 s. in lieu of mai^e. The Duke of Argyle b
patron of the pariih.
Scboob^
qfKilUafi and Kikhenzie.
Scioals^r^Thert are 4. (chools m the paxiib ; x. of ^Kem is
fupported bj the Society for Propagating Chriftian EaoW'*
ledger and one bj the Koyal ISoontj i the other a by the
heritors.
StatiJicalTaSli.,
NttnibcroffiimaiMb . -
male cUldreiiy
mile CermOh
vader loyeinoftfc
iro0i 10 to 10 •
from «o to $o» •
from 50 to 7pt
from ^o to zo^
of WHOWCVia •
Widowt,
^•lal noinber of Mib
Population in 1 755,
DecretfiB,
Reatofthcptrifl^
Valued rent,
KvBbcroflfentnfli
Cotttxs, inchidinf lifids*
Soils dfofib Amn ;eaHy,
4ftS
5«5
«7i
iSt
zai
SSO
371
7a»
«35
1.^3:13:1
^feed,
Kittikvofbkckc^tafe,
iMrica.
All
ttst
30a
3«
ztf
3«<S
Number of fti^
olougH
iMoTe-caipalMk^
Wat-baildeii|
miUeft,
mafons,
nuftftMSy
zo
I
i
- S
4
t
tDCKgta^'
t
a
ti|cfc-miUar and djcr» ' x
i»oor.-i»lf umber of paupers on the parflti rott %t*
Amount of annual diftributioa to them L* 15. This fum
is wholly colleded from the offerings of the tenantSt trade(«
men» fenrants, and cottagers; for of 8 heritors^ among
whom the property of the pariih is (fivided, none refides in
it At prelent*
llie number of marriages, for 8 years paft, is, at an ave-
x»ge9 24! ; and of baptifmsi 77^ f^ each year.
jtgricukftrij^m
6j^ it0tyUcal 4€Mmt
.jfyrifuhi&i^'^AM there are bot few isdofiucs in the pd^
nQif ngricaltural improir^ents are not greatly advanced in
il4 From tbe attcsytioh, bowtVef, t^hich fome of tKe heri-
tor9 have of late giveh to diefe matters, there is reafiMi' to
belieTe that the face of tbe coontrj will iboa pnt on a bec-
fer appcstrance^ The Duke of Argyle mAts it a cove-
nant in the kafes which ht gtires has tenants, that diey fliall
dmin and indoAf to a certain extent ^wcified ; and hb Grace
e^pbjs a IkdfiDdi iitprovef to fuperintend the opeimtions.
, The average tetdrna daroogfaMt the parift is fn^olied
to be, .firom oau 3^^ from bear atent 6; from potatoes
from u to 15 ^ pblAtoes SK atmeft the onlj gieen crop ad-
tivated bj iffieffrunmen* The qnanfif j of bens aAdpeas which
hfbwn is not cortiderable i hot there is lealbit to believe, aa
fhey anfwer well, that the eoltitation of them wiU be more
atteoded to in a very (hort time. The*frrmen are alio be*
ginniog to find the advantage of haviitg ferine cfaver and
tye-grals, and the cultivation of thefe articles wtD probably,
in a- ^ew years, be very confiderable, . A few have laiftd
turnips, and no doubt many wonfit do Ib'if the lands wene
bcloled. The greateft defeft in our fiuming, is the want
of a proper intermixture of green with white crops. The
ftrmeti, afld indeed the people in general, are a&ive,
ind«flcioBs,.aad well behaved. No doubt their labour witt
turn loon to more account, as better implemeitti of hdban*
dry are now fatroduced among them. Hany, mfleadef
the old Scotch plci^gh aftd 4 horfib, u£e now Small's light
^ough and only a horles, alkd a' few hate laid afide the
driver. More attention is dfi> ^aiii w the breed of horfiea'
and black cattle. There is only one bdhfi&rable iheep*
flock in the parilh, in a mountainous fsrm. All the frr*
mors have a few for their own nfis i theie are of the dd!*
final! whifi^^fraed hind, which kafo mofo deficatn ttOi
ff KiUean Md Kikbemde. 63 1:
aad iacr wod, wid %tt Botf lb fobijeft to difinfies as Uie Gal-
loveaj bread.
I^V^ 0fS0^umis.^^The wages ef ferrasts are conftaat-
1 J sdTancing. At preieiit a fervaat maa gets from L. I
to L. xo apjear, and a iervaat maid L. 3, bafidea t va-
riety of articles andor the name of bounty ; a dayJaboor*
cr gets IS. a-day aad his Tiftoab; a uilor sod.s a
fhoemaker 8d« for themakingof a pairof lhoes;acarpea«
ter I f • 6 d. together, alU with their ▼idaals. Blaokfmitha
are paid by to mach com from the merk-laad i a praftioe
trottblefome to them aad the tenaats both, an'd which oaght
to be laid afide, and aaooey fiibftituted in its place. The
fiime obiervatioa will apply to the ichoelmafter on the pa-
xochial eftabliihmeat.
AiomttagiM ami Lifiuhamu^^mJXht advaotages ef the
pariih are, agood road, itsvidaify to the lea, aad to a mar-
ket at Campbelltown, with abnadaace of aatoral maaaia
from fea^wsre aad lime-ftoae.-- Its greatcft difrdvaatages
mrc, want of timber, and fcardty ef fad ia many fiurms, oa
which the peat-moflTes are aow eidtsafted.
APPENDIX.
.3 '•^ I.
*1 •"
.*,:.. 19.
Appendix.
tommtmieaifoni fy ji/exander Camegie^ Efq; TowthCIeri of
MirduMf r^ardmf tie Statifiical Circwnftances of tba$
City. SceNa.IV.
^T^H£ city of Aberdeen, is one of the mofl ancient, and
^ is endowed with fome of the greateft privileges and
immonitiesy of anj of the rpjal boroughs in Scotland.
AU hiftorioal aceounCs agree^ tha^ it was original! j erefi«
cd into a royal bargh, towards the end of the ninth centory,
by King Gregory of Scotland, firnamed the Great.
But the original charter of erefiion, and all the more^ an-
cient title-deeds and records of the burgh, were, along with
the town itHelf, burnt and deftroyed by the £ngUlh| as
after noticed.
A very few charters and other grants, however, have
been {aved \ the oldeft of which is a charter by King Wil*
liam the Lyon, in fivour of the bargeflcs of Aberdeen and
others be-north the Month, granted at Perth, but without
any date or year, though it muft have been towards the
end of tiie twelfth century, as that King only began to reign
in 1165.
There are other two charters granted by the fame King
William, to the borgefles of Aberdeen, of the toll of their
chatties through the whole kingdom \ both of thetn dated
at Aberdeen, the aSth of Auguft, without mentioning
cither the year of God or King's reign, although, from the
writing and feats, they appear to be of a later date than the
Vol. XIX- « former
d Appendix to the
iformer one, and have probably been granted during Kii^
William's refidence beret as he certainlj built a palace, and
remained fome time with his Ceurt at Aberdeen.
The palace flood upon the iite of the prelentTrxnityjChuxcli
and Trades Hofpital, in the Sbiprow ^ and upon Eling Wil«
liam's leaving this country, he founded, in the lame place, a
monafiery for the Trinity or Red Friars, which was burnt
down and deftroyed along with the town. It was after-
wards rebuilt about the year 1633, ^7 ^ William Guild,
minifter in Aberdeen, who bequeathed uid left it for an
hofpital to decayed tradefmen, befides fome other fnbjefis
for buriaries at the Marifchall College, under the patronage
ef the Convener Court*
In]i 306-79^ according to Hedor Boece, the citizens of
Aberdeen, who had always lleadily aAered to and fitp>
ported Robert Bruee^s intereft, being rendered defperate
by the cruel and oppreffive ufage of a flrong Englifii garri-
fon, kept in the caflle there by Edward I. they, along with
a number of others, adherents to Brace's intereft, furprzfed
and ftormed that garrifon, and put them to the fword, at
fame time laid the caftle in ruins^ in order to prevent the
Engli/h from returning,
A party of the Engliih, who happened to be in the ndgb-
bourhoody came immediately to revenge the diCifter wfaidi
had befatten their countrymen ^ but they were met and en-
gaged by tha Aberdonians and their affoclates, in the
church-yard of St Nicholas, where the Englifli were totally
defeated with great daughter* Although Boeoe does not
fpecify the particular year when thefe de^ts of the Eng-
lifli happened at Aberdeen, yet, from its coane£doa widi
the fubje6b of the context, where it is introduced in the life
of Bilhop Henry Cheyne, it appears to have been at or
near the above period, and he thus relates them : " Eo
^'pro^e tempore Brufianip Aberdooeafem arcem quam
** aliquot
StatiJHeal jfce&unt of Aberdeen. 3
^ aiiqpol amos nudmo com Scotoram incommodo Angli
*' teimerftBti Abetdonenfibus plurimum fuppetiarnm afie*
* rentibiiSyezpDgnataiii. Ti capiimc, csefis iis qui ejus cufto-
^ diaB fberant deiUnati ; ac paulo poft, ne Anglis ullum
'< Aberdoniae fuperefiet refugium^ omni fupellediti ezhauf-
^ tam, folo arqoanmt. Angli amiflse ards, cceforumque
^ ccmtnibiliuiiii trifli nundo afiedi^ coaAis copiis, Aberdo-
** niam movent, animo acceptam injuriam ulcifcendi. Id
*' ttbi AberdonisB noBctatum, Brnfiani fimul cum civibus
'* illicoy oppido, egrei& funt, cum hollibus dimicaturi. Jo-
^ annes Frifarius Brnfiani ezercitns, qui turn Aberdonis
^ fnerat, dux, (nb ita animom accendet ad pugnam, ut non
^ tam ad certamen, qnam ad certam viAoriam, progredi vi«
** derentur. Inita pogna, acerrimi certatum. ViAoria
«* tandem (fed cnienta) Scotis ceffit, Anglorumque plurimi
" eo pneKoewfi, paud rivi captt, xari fugere, adeo acriter
^ in pttgna perduramnt. Placuit viAoribus quos captoa
^'habebant, ad terrorem extra oppidum furca fufpendere ;
^ fed Tetnere Caoonici, atqae ut cte&rum corpora ad porti-
^ cam Templi Divi Nikolai terra conderenturi apud Frife-
^ rinm atque Appuli prasfeAum obtinuerant, ubi eorum ofla,
^ cum dtuHa, is rd mooumentum, adhnc ccmuntur/'
la 1398, Robert Bmce, after bebg defeated in different
^i^K^B^ctttSy came to Aberdeen^ at which*^ttme he was fo
exceedingly fick, that he began almoft to dcffpair of the re-
cover j <if hiB health, as wdl as of his kingdom } but being
encouraged, and ofieved affiSancCi both in^ men and money,
by the Citizens of Abeideen, and joined by a confiderable
number of ihem, he went northward in fearch- of t^ Eng-
lifli army, commanded by J6hn Cuming Earl of Bucban,
and Mottbray, an Engliib General, whom ht came up with,
and engaged, upon the iid ef May in that year, near to the
tamk of'Inverury, where a moft bloody battle tofued i and
ritlxmgb Bruce waa tSien fb we4k, that he was obliged to be
fupported
4 appendix to tbe
fupported on hprfeback during the efigagement, yet be tt*
lalljr routed the Englilh with great daughter. He fooa after-
wards recovered his health \ andjhis national affairs every day
, ivore a roore favourable afpefi, this being tbe firft vifiory
which he had obtained.
The firfi charter now extant in favour of the burgh itfel^
is granted by King Robert Bruce, in 1310, which contaias
filfo a gift and f onveyiince to the commnnity of the Royal
Foreft of Sfocket« Befides which, be, by feveral other
charters, granted various farther privileges an4 imninnitica
to the burgh and citizens of Aberdeen, feveral of whidi
are likewife ftill extant from the 13x4 downward to
In 13339 Edwarfl III. of England having fent a fleet of
Ihips to ravage th^ eaft coail of Scotland, a body of Englidi
lanc^ed, and, by furprife, attacked the town pf Aberdeen tn
the night-time, killed % great nv|mber of the inhabitants,
find burnt and dcftroyed the town for fix days together, in
revenge of the feveral defeats which thfir countrymen had
there receive^. A°<^ Boece, in his Hiftory of tbe Lives of
the Biihops of Aberdeen, thus relates that direful cataftrophe
which befel the town, vu^.— ^<* Per id tempu^ triginta naves
f* Anglican^, in Qatione portui Aberdonenfi ptoxima nofia
^y jecere anchoras, unde expofitse copies in terram pene Abtr-
*' doniuni prips funt ingreffse, quam cives eas adveniffe fen-
*^ ferunt. Sequutus pavor ingens, terrorque omnium \ pt,
*' hominum, mulierum, atquepuerorum fngientium tiirmps,
f' paffim vifls complerentur. Angli accepta clade (cojns
^* ante meminimus) apud Aberdoniam ixa perciti, com-
** plures Aberdonenfium truci<iant } urbeqi, fimulatque
** Pontificis et Cauonicorum srdes, omni fupelledili popula-
f* tus incendunt. Arfit Aberdonia fex dies, lugnbre intuen-
f tibus fped^ciilum. Peperoer^ hoftes templis, pietate
^l 0(0^1 religiQfqruin quoqu^ Abl^tysi cuapdibus adbibi^is,
"ne
Statiftkal Account of Aberdeen. ^
y ne corribiu £iciilifve yeato per aera afib, qui tnm ferte
*' vebeaiens erat admodaniy qoid damni paterentur. Fah
'* annus quo Aberdonia foneftam banc dadem acoepit, a
" Chrifto incamato tcrdus fapra millefimuon tercentefimuiix
** tricefimnai."
Alio, in 23361 Edward III. invaded Scotland, and march*
ed with an army as &r northward as Invemeis, daring
which time the citizens of Aberdeen went out and attacked
a party of Englifli forces, who had landed at Dnnnottar,
and killed their General. In revenge of which, Edward,
Jipon his return from Invemeis, made a violent attack upon
the town of Aberdeen, put the greateft part of the inhabi-
tants to the fword, and again burnt and deftrojed the town.
At which time, as well «s the 1333, all the more ancient
charters and records belonging to the community, (a few ez«
cepted) were loft. Some years afterwards, the town was re-
built of new, and confiderably enlarged, particularly toward
the hills, upon which the principal part of it now ftands,
viz. the Woolman-hill, St CatharineVhill, the Port-hill,
and Caflle«hill, (the old town having lain along the Greea
aod Sbiprow, Sec. eaftwards), and- in this the citizens were
greatly affifled by King David Bruce, for their fteady loyal-
ty and attachment both to himfelf and his father \ and the
fame King David refided for fome time at Aberdeen, where
he erefied a mint, as appears from fome pieces of money
coined there ; and the whole town, after being rebuilt as
above, was afterwards called the New Towh of Ahtriimf
in contrardiftinftion to the Old, which had been burnt down.
Boece, if ho likewiie gives an account of the laft, as well as
the former burning of the town, thus relates the fecond,
viz. '* King Edward, dradand to tyne all the firength of
^' Scotland, came with XLM men to the relief of the Caflle
f f ^ Lochcndors, and ^tx he had ftoflM it with provifioos.
fS AppemBxtbthe
^ht cuast ^th bkodjiWiMd tiuwifjti Blorraj ; mdon im
^'ittorning to Mar,, he burnt the town of Aberdeen."
in X41X, Donald, the Chief of the ifles, with an army of
4BBCOiuttTjmen, hatving nfeade an:ftttack, and feized npon
Rols and Murraj, proceeded fouthwards as fiu- aa Stntfa-
^fcogie^ mnd Aneatened to hrrade Aiaerdeen ; the citizca^ to
« oonfidevable number, aiong .with Robert ;DaT]dfiaa, their
ttiien Provoft,'beutg joined: by the End of MiBrr, and nan j
of the Bobi&yand gentrj of Aogns, MeamB^ and Aber-
tieenfliire, went northward in feaich of Donald and Usfbr-
lecs, and caine.ni» widi them at a final! Tillage called Har-
law, abont fixteen Englilh miles from Aberdeen, what
dwre enfoed a m^ defperate and bkiod j battle, wfakh con-
tinned with great fury nntil night ieparatedtbem ; and each
.parly claimed the TiAorj. Many were flain in this faattk
on. both fides, particolarly Provoft Davidfon, and a confi-
deaahle anmber of the principalcitiaens of Aberdeen.
In September i644,.doring the tme of the dvil wars*
'the Marquis of Montroie, with an army of about 2000 men,
liaving approached the town of Aberdeen, and fnmmonrd
' it to iisrreader to him, the Magiflrates, after advifiag
with Lord Bnrleigh, who then commanded in the town a
foro^ nearly equal in number to the affaihnts, refiifed to
•give op the towo, npon which a hatde enfiied within half
an En^iih mile of the:town, at a place called the Crab-
. fione, near to the Ju(lice*miUs, where Montrofe prevailed,
«Bd«iany of the principal citizens were killed.
The city of Aberdeen has rec^ved varions granta fSrom
libiiiteen <&fireot Sovereigns of Scotland, from King "Wil-
. ' Kam the Lyon, downward to King James VL inclnfive, all
. extant in the town's chaitiilary. Ahd in 1638, the whole
of thefr.preoeding grants and charters were, by a charter
/leom King Charles I. not only ratified and confirmed, bnt
tllb the burgh was of new ereOed. And by the fame
charter,
Statijlkal Account (^Aberdeen. f
cli4rtery the Provoft and Bailies are created and oonfiitmedi
Sherifi, Coroners, and Juftices of the Peace» within Hm
iHlrgh, and whole bounds of the freedom-lands. The Pbq)-
-voft being named Sheriff and Coroner-principal, and the
four Bailies, SheriCs and Coroners-depnte \ whick federal
offices of Sheriffi and Juftices of the Peace, the Magiflratea
of Aberdeen have been in the confiant pra&ice of exerci^
£Ag to the preienC day, in all canfies coming before them ia
thefii capacities^ and pf holding quarter*feffions for the burgh,
in the lame manner as the Juftices of the county* Tha
Magiftrates have farther granted to them, bj bid charter,
the Cune powers, jurifilidioo, and authoritj within the pott,
harboor, and flood-mark of Aberdeen, and whole beunda
thereof, as well as within the rivers of Dee and Dm, xa
the two bridges, as they have within the burgh itfelf and
liberties, and have always ezerdfed that jurildidion and
authority accordingly*
The Town-coondl and Dean of Guild of Aberdeen havo
likewiie, by the &me charter from King Charles I. fidi
power and authority committed to them, of vifiting, escami-
ning, and trying all wei^ts and mea&ires nfied in buying
and feUiDg, not only in the town, but alio through tho
whole county of Aberdeen, which they have in like man-
ner been in the pradice of ezercifing; and of holding drcnit
and itinerant couns for that purpofe, in the different prindn
pal country towns, where any kind of trade or merchandifis
is carried on.
The forelaid charur and confirmation by King Charles L
with the whole other writs and title-deeds therein confirm*
ed, and ri^ts and privileges thereby granted to the burghs
were afterwards folemnly ratified by different aAs of the Par«
liameai of Scotland, particularly by two a£b, in 1641, and
t68x.
vrona
f Append to tbS
From the 13361 when the town was laft bmnt, to dd
1398; there does not appear to have been any regular pnUic
records kept ; but ff om the laft mentioned period to the
^refent time, (except for about twelve jears in the b^in*
niog of the fifteenth ceiitury)^ there ia a rtgidar and nmn-
terrupted feries of records of the aAs and procedure^ boch of
the Town-Council and Bailie-cdurts, all in good order and
condition, confifting of above Seventy Vcdtimes, remaining
in the town's chartulary, coiitainingy in whole, a period of
near 406 years.
The burgh of Aberdeen comprehends but one panflip
called St Nicholas, which has no landward or oountiy
bounds, but is limited to the burgh itfelf, which does not
extend above two Engliih miles in circumferenee, and is
furrounded on all -fides by the parifli of Old Macbar, ex-
cept towards the eaft. The Magiftrates, however, by the
above charters and afis of Parliament, enjoy and exerciic
^e fame powers and jurifdi&ion as they have within the
burgh or royalty, over a large trad of land in the ndgh-
bourfaood of the town, confifting of what is called the liber-
ties or freedom, which will extend in circuit from twelve t#
fourteen Engliih miles.
Before the Reformation, there were feveral chapels with-
, in the burgh and royalty annexed to, and dependent upon,
the pariih-church, particularly St MtfTj's Chapel, under the
Ealft Church, where the Highland Congregation now meets
for worlhip ; St Catherine's Chapel, which ftood upon the
hill of that name \ St Ninian's Chapel, at the CaftlehiQ,
part of which ftill remains ; and St Clement's Chapel at
Footdee, which has been lately rebuilt, and is ftill occupied
as a place of worihip, under the patronage of the Council*
There was another chapel, called St John's, fituated
within the royalty of the burgh,^ although without- the
bounds of the pariih of St Nicholas, upon that croft of
land
Siati/lical \4cQ0uM of Aberdeen. 9
hmd, cdUed St John's Croft, where the Chapel of Eafe to
the pariih of Old Machar now ftandsi The Magifirates
and Council appear to have purchafed the patronage of
St John'89 on account of its victnit j to the town« and fitua-
tion within the royalty. There were likewife monafterieft
of feveral di&rent orders of Friars eftabliihed in Aberdeen,
befide the Trinity. or Red Friars already utie&tianed, viz.
the Black Friars in the SchoolUBl, where .Gordon's Hofpi*
tal and the Grammar-fchool now fiand ; the Carmelite or
White Friars, along the fouth fide of the Green ; and the
Grey Friars, in the Broadgate, where the Marifchal Col-
lege and Church are now fitoated.
The number of Advocates, dr Lawyers^ ih Aberdeen^
under the incorporation charter, will be feen firom the
Aberdeen AbnanackA; although five or fix do not praftife
before the Courts, and fome othen are- removed from
town*
EnBion of the Ut^» Pier^ and tie great Adtv^mtages
arifing from i>.^^Tbe Neiy Piw lately erected ontbe north
fide of the entry of the harbour of Aberdeen, and 'at the
mouth of the river Dee, extending to laoo feet in length
along the fide of that river, and a confiderable way. into the
fea, was begun to be built in Jvne 1775, ^^^ wasfiniflied
in OSober 1780, according to a plan furniflied by John
Smeaton, Efq; engineer \ the expence whereof, and of the
additions which have been made to it, by his advice and
direfiions, fince it was built, particularly a jettie Or catdi
pier, for ihekering the fliipping within the harboHr from
the violent inrun of the fea in M^ft^rly ftorm^,. has amounted
to about L. 18,000 Starling- Tbts expense has .been de«
frayed, partly by fome fmall funds formerly belonging to
the harbour, but chiefly will be paid by the doubling of
the fliore and harbour dues upon the trade and ihippiog of
Vol. XIX. b the
10 Appendix to the
the place, in confequeiice of an aft of Parliament oliCaincd
for that porpofey but witbotlt ao j public aid or contribnuos
whatever.
Bj the erefiion of this pier, the oavigadon channel at
the eatry of the barboor has been deepened and improTcd
to a degree much beyond any thing that was preTioafly cx-
peCked, akfaongh it be aoo £eet fliorter than Mr Smeaton's
original plan, which was im whole 1400 feet ia lengtiu
Before ereftion of the North Pier, the harbonr-moath was
always rcrj much interrupeed, and ibmetimes almoft ea*
tirely ihut np by a bar, or large bank of fliiftaig land, upon
whichy at low water, there was fometimcs not above 18
inches or % feet in deepnefe ; and at high water, even in
Ijpring-tides, . not above xj.fiect^ and as this bar wasfire*
quently flii&iag and varying its fituatioo, according as it
was aded upon by the ftonns of the lea or the floods of die
river, few (hipping were m fafety to take the harbour nndl
firft it was founded by a pilot, and the fituation of the bar,
as well as the deepaefii of water, afcertained ; whereas,
linoe the North Pier was Indlti fmall vefiels, drawing 7 or
8 feet, have come into the harbonr at low-water ; and at
liigh*waicev, on fpring^tides, there is now from r8 to 10 feet
in deepneis at die entry, as the former bar, or bank offend,
is now, by the confinement of the river, and the increafed
velocity of the cnrrent, carried out bto the fea at leaft a
quarter of a mile farther dian it fbrmerly was ; fe that we
now fee vefleb of oonfiderable burden, in the violence of
a ftorm blowing right t^pon the land, making for and failing
into the harbour with (afety, even without the affiftance of
any pilot, whidi no fliip coidd have before attempted, with-
out the greateft danger of beitfg wrecked on die bar, or
fome part of the adjacent coaft.
The
Statijlical Account of Ahcri^cn. ti
72r Battery 9 (^r.— The batteries erefied by the town in
X78X and 1781, for defence of the harbour and ihipping,
have coft about L. laoo ; and they have mounted upon
them ten new iron cannon, twelve pounders* The town
liave likewife two brais field-pieces, three pounders, with
a proportionable quantity of (hot, amunition and laboratory
flores. They have alio 400 ftand of fmall arms, or muC-
kets, depofited in the town's armory, and kept always in
excellent order by a tradeCoian, who has a yearly falary for
that purpofe.
Of the Municipal Form of Gcnemnunt^ or Set of the Burgh.
«^-With refpeft to the prefent municipal conHitution and
form of government of the burgh of Aberdeen, which has
now fubfifted, and been invariably obferved, for no le£s than
two centuries downward to this day, it is /ounded chiefly
upon the a£b of Parliament 1469 and 1474, by which *' All
^' officers and Members of the Councils of Burghs are ap«
** pointed to be annually eleAed : That the Auld Goun-
*' cil of the town fliall chufe the New in fie number as ac«
^ cords to it : And that the New and Auld Councils to*
*^ gether fliall chufe all the (aid officers : That the craft
^ ffiall chufe a perfon of their number, that fliall alfo have
^ a vote in the eleflion of thefe officers : And that four
«' worthy peribns of the Auld Council for the year before
'' fliall be chofen yearly to fit with the New CounciL"
It appears, however, that thefe afis of Parliament were
not in any part obferved by the »Town-Council of Aber-
deen for above zao yetirs after they were pafied. On the
contrary, they perfifled in following what they called the
ancient form of government, and auld confuetude of the
burgh, by which it appeal^, that the number of the mem-
bers of Council often fluduated and varied very much, from •
^0 to 3(11 ^ and that, when once they were eleded or alTum-
cd.
It ' Appendix io the
ed, they were in general continued during their file, or lb
lon^ as thej did not difier with the perfons who had afliun-
ed them : And that the five firft Magiftrates, or officers of
the barghy viz» the Provoft (for many years 'ftyied AUer-
man) and the four Bailies, were alone ekAed annoaDy at
bead-courts of the citizens, called Curut CapitaUt^ although
femetimes without mentioning by whom the eleftion cren
of thefe officers was made, but for the moft part expreffed
to be, Cum communi omnium burgenjium eonfin/k, affenfm^ et
voto ; which eleftion, however, was«certainly equally iUegal^
and againft the direftion of the ads of Parliament, as the
continuing the members for life.
This ancient cuflom was at laft, in 1590, openly dialkn-
ged and complained upon as arbitrary and illegal, by a Mr
John Cheyne, then a member of Council, who infifted that
they fhould make an annual eledion, in terms of thefe fta-
tutes, which they not only refufed to comply with, bat ex-
pelled Mr Cheyne from the Council, as a perfon unfit and
improper to be of their number.
He was, however, foon joined by a Mr Ewen, and many
other burgefles of equally patriotic principles, who raifed a
profecution againfi the Magiftrates and Council before the
Courts of Sefiion and Exchequer, widi concoarfe of his
Majefty's Advocate, for obliging them to comply with the
terms of the fore&id ftatutes. The confequence whereof
was, that the Council at laft, in Odober X59I9 (after la-
menting the fall of what they declared to be die aold co&«
fuetude and ancient form of government of ^e boigh)
agreed to follow the diredions of (aid fiatutes, and accord-
ingly made an eleftion in the terms thereof for the fellow*
lAg year, ending at Michaelmas 1592.
It appears, however, that Mr Cheyne, «nd his affodatcs,
did not get into power upon th^ new conftitudon, which
they had the merit to produce \ ^d that, at the eafiiing
Michaelmas
' StatiJUcal Account of Aberdeen. 13
Michaelmas ele£tioii, thej aiTembled in arms in different
parts of the Hown, 00 purpofe cq overawe the proceed-
ings, of the Council. For compofing of which violent
suiimofities'y a conference enfned between a certain number
of the Cooncil and the leaders of the dtizens. The refult
whereof happilj produced a fubmiflion by the feveral par-
ties concerned, of all the matters in difpute betwixt them,
to his Majefij Kbg James VI. as overfman, and twelve
others as arbitrators : Who, by a decreet-arbitral, of date
the 7di of December 15931 fubfcribed by them and the
parties themfelves, in tcltimony of their approbation, fixed
and appointed the Magifirates and Council for that year,
ending at Michaelmas X593, by name, confiding of nineteen
perfons, viz. feventeen guild-brethren and two crafdmen :
And decerned and appointed that the afk of Parliament
concerning the eledion of Magifirates, Council, and Office-
men within burgh, ihould be precifely obferved in all
time thereafter.
This decreet-arbitral was, in a few days after its date,
read, and unanimouily ratified by the whole burgefles and
citizens of the ftown, convened together for the purpofe,
who, at fame time, folemnly fwore to obtemper and obey
the faid decreet thereafter in all points. And which, with
another decreet*arbitral, pronounced by the CommiiConers
of Boroughs in July 1596, finding the craftfmen entitled to
ten votes in the annual ele&ion of the Magiftrates, Dean of
Guild, and Treafurer, form together what is now called the
fet, or mnnicipal conftitution of this burgh, which has been .
uniformly obferved as an invariable rule and ftandard in the
annual eledion of the Magiftrates and Council to this day.i
By it, the conftituent members of the Town-Council con-
lift of nineteen in number, feventeen whereof are guild-
Vrethren, and two of them deacons of crafts: Four of the
M^rcb^nt-Co^nciUors only are continued by elefiion for
another
14 Appendix te the
another jear, and the remaining fifteen nembeis are aarni*
ally changed and go out » And all of them are yearly ekft-
ed, without any preference or difcrimination, firom a roll or
lift of the whole burgefles of guild in town, and of the fix
deacons of trades, previoufly made xxp for the purpofe, from
which the leets of the new Council are taken, and deler-
mined always according to the majority of votes of the
Council upon the day of the annual eledion, which is hdd
upon the Wednefday preceding Michaelmas day.
' After eledion of the nineteen members of the new Comi*'
cily the Magiftrates, and other office-bearers for the eniuiog
year, are eleded theflTame day out of the feventeen Mer-
ehant-CounfellorSy by the majority of votes of die new and
old Councik together, and fix deacons of crafb, confitiBg
of forty perfons in whole, viz. thirty guild-brethren and tes
craftfmen V, and in cafe of an equality of votes in any of the
iteps of eleflion, the Provoft, or fenior Magifirate prefbrt;
has a decifive or cafting vote, befide his own individaal and
proper voice.
In cafe of any of the thirty guild-brethren or ten tradef<^
men being abfenc from the election, the Town-Cooncfl and
the Craftfmen are refpedfnlly authorifed by the fiet, to ekft
any other qualified perfons of the clafi, to fupply the place
of and vote for fuch abfents. Upon the whole, it is belie^
ved, from a comparative examination, that the prefent mo*
nicipal confiitution, or fet of thb burgh, will be found not
only to be a perfeft contraft to its own more arbitrary and
ancient fyftem of government, but alfo to be mnch more
liberal and free than moft of the other royal boroa^ of
Scotland. Becaufe, in many of them, fome of the members
of Council, and even Magiftratcs, do ftill continue in office
during life, or fo long as they agree with the party in
power. And in others, feveral of the member^ of Cooocil
^rc entitled to keep ^hejr. feats without elc^ion for a fecond
year.
Statijlical Account of Aherdeen. 15
ytar, ia confequence of their havisg enjoyed certain offices
for the preceding. Whereas^ in Aberdeen^ every Magi-
Urate and member of Cooncily even the old foiir, muft be
annually defied, witbont regard to any office which they
may have formerly held \ and fifteen of the whole number
arc yearly changed and go out.
N. jS. The fubftance of the principal hiftorlcal fads con«
tained in the above narrative (which do not appear in anjf
of the town's records) are taken from a fmall treatife, en-
titled) *' A Survey of the City of Aberdeen," printed and
publifhed in 1685, to all appearance by a burgefs or citizen,
under the iignature of Pbilo Politicus, which has always
been h^ld, and appears to be authentic^ except in point of
chronology, and to correfpond in all the eflential fa£ls with
the other authors cited and referred to by him, viz. Camb«
den, Spotifwood, Fordan, and Boece's hiflories.
Building of the Bridges o/'DoN and Dee*
Bridge of Don. — In 1281, Henry Cheyne (nephew of
John Comyn, who was killed by RoKert Bruce at Dumfries
in X305), fiicceeded to the biflioprick of Aberdeen. After
Comyn's death, Biihop Cheyne, from his being fo near a
relation to Conaya, as well as many others in Scotland, were
greatly enraged at Robert Bruce upon account of Comyn's
death, and openly efpouTcd the intereS and party of the
Comyns. For this reafon, after Robert Bruce became fet«
tied in the Throne and Government, Biihop Cheyne was
obliged to fly into England, and. remain there forfeveral
years, during which time the revenues of his biihoprick re*
mained unapplied. But King Robert, having been after* '
wards reconciled to Bithop Cheyne, was pleafed to allow him
to return and poiTels the lee of Aberdeen as formerly. The
Biihop was fo happy upon hit being again received into the
Ring's
5 Appendix^ i^c.
's favour, that, upon hirretum home, he, with the cofi''
*nce and approbation of his Sovereign, applied the whole
of his bilhoprick, ^hich, during his ab&nce in Eng-
lad accumulated to a confiderable fum, towards build-
e bridge over Don, of one large Grothic arch, whexe it
ilands, upon the great high-road leading northward
A.berdeen ; and it appears to have been built about the
*. :320. Bifhop Cheyne died in 1329.
uige of Dee. — Bifhop William Elphinfion left a confi-
ble legacj to bmld a bridge over tbe river Dee, near
. erdeen, as well as for the ere^on of an Univerfitj at Old
" berdeen, where the Biihop*s Cathedral flood, but died in
15 14, before any thing was done in the building of the
bridge. Gavin Dunbar, fon to Sir James Dunbar of Cum-
nock, by Elifabeth daughter of the Earl of Sutherland, and
uncle to Gavin Dimbar, Archbifhop of Glafgow, having
fucceeded to the bi(hoprick of Aberdeen in 15x8, he foon
thereafter caufed collect and receive the money which had
been left by Bifhop Elphinfion for the building of this
bridge ; and having alfo contributed himfelf a conaderable
fum of money to that work, he caufed ered the greateft part
of the bridge where it now flands, of feven arches, about the
year 1530, although it was not finifhed till after his death*
This bridge having gone into** decay'about the year 1720,
it was rebuilt out of the funds belonging to itfelf by the Ma^
giflratcs and Town-Council of Aberdeen ftom 1720 to 1724,
and is at this day one o£ the neatefl and beft fet down bridges
to the river of any in Scotland.
\
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